,illustration3 ,,the ,,pleasures ,,of ,,the ,,table ,,books ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,author ,the ,garden's ,story1 or ,pleasures and ,trials of an ,amateur ,gardener4 ,illustrated by ,louis ,rhead4 ,the ,story of ,my ,house4 ,with a frontispiece by ,sidney ,l4 ,smith4 ,in ,gold and ,silver4 ,illustrated by ,a4 ,b4 ,wenzell and ,w4 ,hamilton ,gibson4 ,the ,rose4 ,by ,h4 ,b4 ,ellwanger4 ,revised edition1 with an ,introduction by ,george ,h4 ,ellwanger4 ,idyllists of the ,country ,side4 ,with a title-page by ,george ,wharton ,edwards4 ,love's ,demesne3 ,a ,garland of ,contemporary ,love ,poems ,gathered from ,many ,sources4 ,meditations on ,gout1 with a ,consideration of its ,cure through the ,use of ,wine4 ,with a frontispiece and title-page by ,george ,wharton ,edwards4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,sa ,,toute-,,puissance6 ,from the painting by ,gabriel ,metzu1 #affd ,illustration3 ,,the ,,pleasures ,,of ,,the ,,table ,,an ,,account ,,of ,,gastronomy ,,from ,,ancient ,,days ,,to ,,present ,,times4 ,,with ,a ,,history ,,of ,,its ,,literature1 ,,schools1 ,,and ,,most ,,distinguished ,,artists2 ,,together ,,with ,,some ,,special ,,recipes1 ,,and ,,views ,,concerning ,,the ,,aesthetics ,,of ,,dinners ,,and ,,dinner-,,giving4 ,,by ,,george ,h4 ,,ellwanger1 ,m4,a4 ,,new ,,york ,,doubleday ,,page ,,and ,,co4 #aijb ,copyright1 #aijb1 by ,,doubleday1 ,,page ,,co4 ,illustration3 ,,fantaisie ,,culinaire3 ,,le ,,poisson ,,pr,,voyant ,by ,a4 ,thierry ,illustration3 ,,to ,,her1 ,,true ,,comrade1 ,,whose ,,versant ,,touch ,,and ,,artful ,,hand ,,have ,,keened ,,my ,,zest ,,for ,,gastronomic ,,lore1 ,,this ,,volume ,,is ,,devotedly ,,inscribed4 ,gasteria is the ,tenth ,muse2 she presides over the enjoyments of ,taste4 ,,brillat-,,savarin4 ,the ,history of ,gastronomy is that of manners1 if not of morals2 and the learned are aware that its literature is both instructive and amusing2 for it is replete with curious traits of character and comparative views of society at different periods1 as well as with striking anecdotes of remarkable men and women whose destinies have been strangely influenced by their epicurean tastes and habits4 ,,abraham ,,hayward4 ,,introductory ,it is far from the purpose or desire of the author to add another to the innumerable volumes having practical cookery as their theme--the published works of the past decade alone being too numerous to digest4 ,the following chapters1 therefore1 though touching upon the practical part of the art1 will be found more closely concerned with the history1 literature1 and sthetics of the table than with its purely utilitarian side4 ,indeed1 a complete manual of practical cookery is one of the impossibilities1 for no person would have the patience to compile it2 and even were such a work achievable1 few readers could find sufficient time for its perusal4 ,a glance at the portly ,bibliographie ,gastronomique of ,georges ,vicaire1 in which ,english contributions to the subject are so meagrely represented1 will suffice to show the difficulties such a task would impose4 ,to classify properly the multitudinous dishes which1 virtually identical1 figure under so many different names1 would of itself require years of severe application and laborious research4 ,it may be observed1 notwithstanding1 that the world stands much less in need of additional inventions as regards the utilisation and preparation of foods than of an expert anthologist to garner the most worthy among recipes already existing in such bewildering profusion4 ,in the succeeding pages the writer has drawn from many sources1 both ancient and modern--wherever an anecdote which is not too familiar has been found amusing1 or an observation has been deemed pertinent or instructive4 ,an occasional recipe has been given1 and the sweet tooth of femininity has not been neglected4 ,the hygiene of the table has likewise been considered1 and some pernicious customs in connection with dining have been plainly dealt with4 ,there are also some allusions to wines with respect to their complementary dishes1 although wine is so important a subject as to call for a volume by itself4 ,it has not been deemed advisable to pass the cookery of the entire globe under review1 even in a cursory manner4 ,to devote separate chapters to ,scandinavian1 ,south ,american1 and ,oriental dishes1 or even to purely ,spanish1 ,mexican1 and ,russian food preparations1 were both needless and cumbersome4 ,the best have been embodied in the cosmopolitan kitchen2 and the rest1 for the most part1 require the atmosphere of their native surroundings to be appraised at their proper value4 ,it is with the ,french that the annalist of the table has chiefly to deal4 ,necessarily1 in treating of what ,thomas ,walker has termed one of the most important of our temporal concerns1 many gastronomic expressions and names of dishes1 and not a few observations relating to the table1 which would lose their piquancy or precise colouring on translation1 have been retained in the language in which they originally appear4 ,les quenelles de levraut sauces d'une espagnolle au fumet1 les amourettes de buf marines frites1 l'paule de veau en musette champtre1 un coq virge en petit deuil1 for example1 while natural and comprehensible in ,french1 would sound somewhat bizarre as ,forcemeat balls of leverets sauced with a racy ,spanish woman1 the love-affairs of soused beef fried1 a shoulder of veal in rural bagpipes1 and a virgin rooster in half-mourning4 ,and surely1 in reviewing the aide-de-camp of the cook1 it becomes obligatory to employ a ,french term upon occasion1 and equally seemly to address him now and then in the classic tongue of the kitchen4 ,the principal meal has chiefly been considered1 as through this to the greatest extent depend the health and frame of mind that determine the actions of man from day to day4 ,it will1 accordingly1 be an entre compounded of numerous flavourings1 or a braise with its bouquet garni that has simmered gently over the smothered charcoal1 rather than a familiar pice de rsistance which the reader is invited to partake of and discuss at his leisure4 ,illustration3 ,,table ,,of ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,,introductory ix ,i ,,cookery ,,among ,,the ,,ancients #c ,,ii ,,with ,,lucullus ,,and ,,apicius #bd ,,iii ,,the ,,renaissance ,,of ,,cookery #di ,,iv ,,old ,,english ,,dishes #hj ,v ,l',,almanach ,,des ,,gourmands #aab ,,vi ,a ,,german ,,speisekarte #ade ,,vii ,,the ,,school ,,of ,,savarin #age ,,viii ,,from ,,car,,me ,,to ,,dumas #aii ,,ix ,,the ,,cook',s ,,confr,,re #bbi ,x ,,american vs4 ,,english ,,cookery #bdh ,,xi ,,at ,,table ,,with ,,the ,,clergy #bhj ,,xii ,,sundry ,,guides ,,to ,,good ,,cheer #cae ,,xiii ,,of ,,sauces #cdd ,,xiv ,,the ,,spoils ,,of ,,the ,,cover #ced ,,xv ,,two ,,esculents ,,par ,,excellence #chc ,,xvi ,,sallets ,,and ,,salads #dji ,,xvii ,,sweets ,,to ,,the ,,sweet #dbh ,,bibliography #ddg ,,index #dfi ,illustration3 ,,illustrations ,a ,sa ,toute-,puissance6 ,frontispiece ,from the painting by ,gabriel ,metzu1 #affd ,,page ,fantaisie culinaire3 le poisson prvoyant iv ,by ,a4 ,thierry ,le ,cuisinier xi ,after the engraving by ,mariette ,,facing ,,page ,a ,bacchante #c ,from the stipple engraving in colours by ,bartolozzi1 after ,cipriani ,portrait du ,gourmand #bd ,after ,carle ,vernet ,le ,livre de ,taillevent #di ,facsimile of title-page of the edition of #aede ,the ,cries of ,paris3 ,old clothes1 old laces6 #fi ,facsimile of an old ,french plate ,first of ,september #hj ,from the engraving after ,a4 ,cooper1 ,r4,a4 ,the ,english ,housewife #id ,facsimile of title-page of the edition of #afge ,un ,viel ,amateur #aab ,a4 ,b4 ,l4 ,grimod de la ,reynire1 n ,paris le #bj #i;bre1 #agef4 ,from an old print ,le ,premier ,devoir d'un ,amphitryon #aba ,frontispiece of the fifth year of the ,almanach des ,gourmands ,les ,mditations d'un ,gourmand #acb ,frontispiece of the fourth year of the ,almanach des ,gourmands ,the ,chef #ade ,from a print after an old ,dutch master ,the ,bird of ,st4 ,michael #afj ,from the etching by ,birket-,foster1 ,r4,a4 ,promenade ,nutritive #age ,frontispiece of ,le ,gastronome ,franais 7#ahbh7 ,pour voir de bons refrains clore1 ,buvons encore6 #ahf ,frontispiece of ,le ,caveau ,moderne 7#ahjg7 ,alexandre ,dumas #aii ,from the etching by ,rajon ,l',art du ,cuisinier 7,beauvilliers'7 #bac ,facsimile of title-page1 #ahbd1 ,vol4 ,,ii ,day's ,closing ,hour #bbi ,from the etching by ,charles ,jacque ,first ,catch ,your ,hare6 #bdh ,from the engraving by ,j4 ,w4 ,snow ,rti-,cochon #bfa ,facsimile page from volume1 #afif ,non in ,solo ,pane ,vivit ,homo #bhj ,from the original oil-painting by ,klein ,la ,contenance de la ,table #bif ,facsimile of title-page 7early part of sixteenth century7 ,enfant1 tu ne dois charger ,tant de la premire viande ,se plusieurs en as en commande ,que d'austres ne puisses menger4 ,promenade du ,gourmand #cae ,frontispiece of ,le ,manuel du ,gastronome ou ,nouvel ,almanach des ,gourmands 7#ahcj7 ,la ,table #cca ,frontispiece of the ,second ,canto of ,la ,conversation of the ,abb ,dlille1 #ahbb ,a ,supper in the ,eighteenth ,century #cdd ,from the engraving after ,masquelier ,the ,spanish ,pointer #ced ,from the engraving by ,woollett1 after the painting by ,stubbs1 #agfh ,partridge ,shooting4 ,i4 ,la ,chasse aux ,perdrix #cfd ,from the coloured print after ,howitt1 #ahjg ,partridge ,shooting--,september #cge ,from the coloured engraving by ,reeve1 after the painting by ,r4 ,b4 ,davis1 #ahcf ,truffle-hunting in the ,dauphin #chc ,from the ,salon picture after ,paul ,vayson ,nouvel ,manuel ,complet du ,cuisinier et de la ,cuisinire #cig ,facsimile of frontispiece1 #ahbb ,the ,wounded ,snipe #dji ,from the engraving after ,a4 ,cooper1 ,r4,a4 ,aprs ,bon ,vin #dbh ,from the engraving by ,eisen in the ,fermiers-,gnreaux edition of the ,contes et ,nouvelles 7#agfb7 ,le ,ptissier ,franais #ddb ,facsimile of title-page of the edition of #afee ,illustration3 ,,le ,,cuisinier ,after the engraving by ,mariette ,,the ,,pleasures ,,of ,,the ,,table ,illustration ,,cookery ,,among ,,the ,,ancients ,l'art qui contient toutes les lgances1 toutes les courtoisies1 sans lesquelles toutes les autres sont inutiles et perdus2 l'art hospitalier par excellence qui emploie avec un gal succs tous les produits les plus excellents de l'air1 des eaux1 de la terre4--,,fayot4 ,cookery is naturally the most ancient of the arts1 as of all arts it is the most important4 ,whether one should live to eat1 is a question concerning which the epicure and the ascetic will hold widely varying opinions2 but that one must eat to live1 will scarcely admit of controversy4 ,the man who is wise in his generation will be inclined to choose a happy medium4 ,or perchance the ,french axiom that we only eat to live when we do not understand how to live to eat1 may somewhat simplify the matter4 ,as it is largely through food and drink that man derives his highest mental efficiency and physical well-being1 as equally through improper diet accrue countless bodily disorders1 it would appear that the proper choice and preparation of aliments and the selection of beverages should receive the profound consideration of every one4 ,in few of the arts has progress been more apparent during modern times4 ,the mechanic has improved its accessories until the utmost perfection would seem to have been attained1 medicine and chemistry have endeavoured to determine what elements of our daily dietary are injurious to certain individuals or to all1 volume after volume has been written upon the subject1 while the grand army of cooks has been busy in inventing new combinations or in resurrecting forgotten recipes4 ,and yet the digestive ills of humanity have continued to multiply1 even though there are over six-score ways presented by a single author of serving the rabbit1 and a competent priest of the range can utilise the egg in hundreds of different forms4 ,is it that with greater variety in our aliments1 a greater number of ailments is a necessary sequence1 and that as mankind increases in culinary knowledge digestion decreases in power8 ,it is an olden adage that too many cooks spoil the broth2 and it may be worthy of consideration whether a superfluity of dishes is not responsible to a considerable degree for the furtherance of various stomachic maladies4 ,or1 on the other hand1 is it that with the trebled facilities of locomotion supplied by modern science1 and the closer confinement of indoor pursuits1 the cause may be largely ascribed to lack of exercise and insufficient oxygenation8 ,illustration3 ,a ,,bacchante ,from the stipple engraving in colours by ,bartolozzi1 after ,cipriani ,however this may be1 the art of cookery is far less generally understood than its great hygienic importance demands1 while the art of dining is understood only by the relatively few4 ,as ,m4 ,fayot observed to ,jules ,janin1 ,without doubt1 ,monsieur1 as you have often said1 it is difficult to write well1 but it is a hundred times more difficult to know how to dine well4 ,or1 as ,dumas has expressed it1 ,to eat understandingly and to drink understandingly are two arts that may not be learned from the day to the morrow4 ,he himself was a striking example of the accomplished bon vivant1 and his marked intellectual superiority over his son may be readily attributed to his greater knowledge of dining4 ,where1 indeed1 more than at the well-appointed dinner-table may one echo the sentiment of ,seneca1 ,when shall we live if not now8 ,an empty stomach produces an empty brain1 observes the author of the ,comdie ,humaine2 our mind1 independent as it may appear to be1 respects the laws of digestion1 and we may say with as much justice as did ,la ,rochefoucauld of the heart1 that good thoughts proceed from the stomach4 ,it is1 however1 a source whence our joys and sorrows both may spring4 ,neglect and indifference may impair its action to destruction2 but1 humoured kindly1 it ever guides us in paths of peace4 ,in a healthy and a hungry state1 it yearns for special gifts which gustatory edicts demand1 and rarely will confusion attend them when their bestowal is flavoured with prudence4 ,it is a faithful minister and discriminating guardian1 which rebels only when its functions are imposed upon2 but when they are1 its resentment is thorough and relentless4 ,worthy then1 most certainly1 of solicitous regard is the nourishment of an organ which may shape our ends for weal or woe4 ,cookery1 said ,yuan ,mei1 the ,savarin of ,china and author of a scholarly cook-book during the eighteenth century1 is like matrimony--two things served together should match4 ,clear should go with clear1 hard with hard1 and soft with soft4444 ,into no department of life should indifference be allowed to creep--into none less than into the domain of cookery4 ,concerning the art itself1 it may be remarked that the ,french have been to cookery what the ,dutch and ,flemish schools have been to painting--cookery with the one and painting with the other having attained their highest excellence4 ,rubens1 ,rembrandt1 ,teniers1 ,jordaens1 ,ruysdael1 ,snyders1 ,berghem1 and ,cuyp may be paralleled in another branch of art by ,carme1 ,vatel1 ,beauvilliers1 ,robert1 ,laguipire1 ,vry1 ,francatelli1 and ,ude4 ,but1 as in painting during its earlier stages ,flanders and the ,netherlands owed much to the ,roman and ,venetian schools1 so in cookery the ,french are vastly indebted to their predecessors and former masters the ,italians1 who1 if less distinguished colourists1 were not to be despised as draughtsmen1 and who if by instinct not as skilled in the chiaroscuro of sauces1 were most dexterous in creating breadstuffs and pastry4 ,montaigne's reference to an ,italian cook of the period will be remembered in this connection--one of the artists who had been employed by ,cardinal ,caraffa who discoursed upon the subject in such rich1 magnificent words1 well-couched phrases1 oratoric figures1 and pathetical metaphors as learned men use and employ in speaking of the government of an empire4 ,it is a long stone's throw from the first apple eaten in the ,garden of ,eden--and this was a wild fruit1 and not a ,spitzenberg or a ,northern ,spy--to a ,chartreuse la bellevue or that triumph of the ovens of ,alsace--the pt de foie gras4 ,the first dish of which any record exists is the red pottage of lentils for which ,esau sold his birthright--a form of food still very common in ,germany and ,france4 ,the first direct mention of breadstuffs in the ,bible occurs in ,genesis1 where ,abraham tenders the angel a morsel of bread1 and bids ,sarah make ready quickly three measures of fine meal1 knead it1 and make cakes upon the hearth4 ,the primitive tribes and nations were content of necessity with the spoils of the chase and the then more limited products of the vegetable world2 and long before ,john the ,baptist's time the ,hebrews lived to no small extent upon locusts and kindred insects4 ,in his enumeration of the animal food which they might eat without rendering themselves unclean1 ,moses specifies four insects of the locust family 7,lev4 x1 #bb74 ,some species of the ,locusta are yet esteemed a delicacy in the ,east1 these being cooked with oil1 roasted upon wooden spits1 baked in ovens1 or broiled4 ,the ,bedouins1 who are ever on the march1 pack them with salt in close masses1 carrying them in their leathern sacks4 ,by the ,athenians they were usually roasted2 and mention is made by ,athenus of an archimagirus1 or master cook1 who1 in his tour around the ovens and stock-pots1 enjoins one of his subalterns to take the utmost precaution with them and see that they obtain only a light golden hue4 ,eggs1 milk1 rice1 and honey1 onions1 succory1 leeks1 and garlic1 the leaves of the vine1 radishes1 and carrots1 with other growths of the garden1 formed the staple articles of diet among ancient peoples4 ,vegetable food was more common than animal1 the latter being served principally in the case of entertainments and special occasions of hospitality 7,gen4 xviii1 #g1 #h74 ,instead of lard and butter1 olive oil was employed1 and is still almost entirely employed by the ,orientals4 ,fish constituted an important article of diet1 together with game1 lambs1 and kids4 ,though not common1 the flesh of young bullocks and stall-fed oxen was highly prized 7,prov4 xv1 #ag2 ,matt4 xxii1 #d71 the shoulder being considered the choicest part4 ,the master of the house was the matador1 and upon the mistress devolved the preparation of the food4 ,among primitive cooks1 ,rebekah proved herself a performer of no mean ability1 as instanced by her dressing the flesh of a young kid after the manner of venison1 in order to obtain a father's blessing for her favourite son4 ,roots1 berries1 fruits1 and the quarry of the bow and harpoon composed the fare of aboriginal man1 and proved all-sufficient4 ,when the struggle for physical existence called for strong exercise in procuring necessary food1 little variety in nutriment sufficed1 at no loss of brawn and sinew4 ,with many savage races1 bread-fruit1 nuts1 the plantain1 the cocoa-palm--known as the tree of life--with numerous other food-yielding palms1 served as a principal means of subsistence4 ,the first fruit-tree cultivated by man is said by all the most ancient writers to be the fig1 the vine being next in order4 ,the almond and pomegranate were cultivated at an early date in ,canaan1 and the fig1 grape1 pomegranate1 and melon were known to ,egypt from time immemorial4 ,in ,solon's law's1 the olive1 the fig1 and the vine are enumerated1 as also the cabbage1 crambe1 or sea-kale1 pulse of various kinds1 and onions4 ,cabbage and asparagus were known to the ,greeks from the earliest ages1 and by them the chestnut1 largely utilised for food1 was termed the ,oak of ,jupiter4 ,the original home of wheat and barley is supposed to be ,mesopotamia and the fertile plains of the ,euphrates1 whence1 after a period of cultivation1 they spread eastward to ,china and westward to ,syria and thence to ,europe4 ,among other food-stuffs of the inhabitants were onions1 vetches1 kidney-beans1 egg-plants1 pumpkins1 lentils1 cucumbers1 chick-peas1 and beans--with such fruits as the apple1 fig1 apricot1 pistachio1 almond1 walnut1 and the product of the palm and vine4 ,coffee1 of very remote use in ,abyssinia1 was unknown to the early ,greeks and ,romans2 they were1 however1 familiar with the cucumber1 cultivated in ,india for at least three thousand years4 ,the cucumber was also known to ,moses and the ,israelites1 the patriarch referring to fish and cucumbers1 melons and leeks1 as among the delicacies that were freely eaten in ,egypt 7,numbers xi1 #e74 ,various kinds of ,cichorium1 or chicory1 were familiar to antiquity1 while ,lactuca1 or lettuce1 was extensively grown as a salad4 ,the onion was a favourite with the ancient ,egyptians1 garlic likewise being made much use of--a plant denounced by their priests as unclean4#a ,baking in ovens is of great antiquity1 the ovens of old ,egypt being frequently represented in contemporary paintings4 ,the table appointments of ,egypt are similarly portrayed in her paintings--the guests of both sexes seated in gala attire1 with jewelled fingers holding the lily of the ,nile or sacred lotus1 while slaves1 naked except for necklace and girdle1 served them with viands and wines4 ,differing from the ,egyptians1 the ,greeks and ,romans excluded women from their feasts1 agreeing with the sentiment of ,fulbert ,dumonteil that for a true gourmand there exist no blue eyes1 white teeth1 or rosy lips that may take the place of a black truffle4 ,the only exception related to the cup-bearers--fair youths and tender maids--who were enjoined to refuse nothing to the guests1 and the richly and gorgeously arrayed hetr1 the voluptuous ,aspasias1 ,barins1 and ,phrynes of the period1 who made their appearance at the conclusion of the repast4 ,with a corps of twelve stewards to provide for his table1 eleven of whom were constantly travelling in search of viands and wines1 it is reasonable to assume that ,solomon1 of whose menus so little record exists1 scarcely confined himself to coarse dishes prepared from the flesh of bullocks1 sheep1 harts1 and roebucks1 but that he1 with his thousand wives and concubines1 observed a sufficient variety and luxury in his kitchen to correspond with the magnificent table appointments and sumptuous surroundings chronicled in the book of ,kings4 ,for ruthless extravagance1 ,cleopatra's dish of a melted pearl1 weighing seventy-four carats and valued at six million sesterces1 probably exceeds that of any single plate of the ,egyptian rulers or prodigal ,roman potentates4 ,horace1 in the third satire of the ,second ,book1 makes mention of the spendthrift son of sopus as also dissolving a pearl in vinegar--his mistress's earring-- 444 to say he'd quaffed ,a cool five thousand at a draught4 ,boiling was another primitive mode of cooking2 and the method even yet practised by barbarians is to utilise the hide of the slaughtered animal for a bag1 placing the meat in this receptacle with water1 and dropping in stones heated to a white heat until the flesh is cooked4 ,laving the meat on hot stones and covering it with ashes1 or hanging it upon a tripod of sticks over the flames1 was the mode of roasting and broiling of the aborigines1 with whom utensils of pottery and metal were unknown--a method often resorted to by woodsmen at the present time4 ,the ,persians were first to set an example of luxurious cookery1 at least as it was understood in ancient times--the favourable climate and fertility of their products1 as well as their natural inclination to ease1 all tending to foster a love for the pleasures of the table4 ,the oldest books of which we have any knowledge refer to their pomp in banqueting1 and portray the brilliant revels of the ,oriental kings4 ,thousands of years before ,henrion de ,pensey pronounced his famous aphorism1 a novel culinary preparation was regarded as of vaster importance than a new celestial visitant4 ,the saturnalia of ,darius and ,xerxes1 the powerful ,persian despots1 are notorious in history1 as are also the feasts of ,nebuchadnezzar1 ,king of ,chaldea1 and those of ,belshazzar1 the final ruler of corrupt ,babylon who fted and feasted a thousand of his lords1 his wives1 and his concubines4 ,anticipating the munificence of the ,roman emperors1 ,sardanapalus1 last of the ,assyrian kings1 offered a guerdon of a thousand pieces of gold to him who would produce a new dish4 ,eat1 drink1 amuse thyself3 all else is vanity1 was his maxim1 and the precept he desired to have engraven on his tomb4 ,the book of ,esther records the magnificent royal feast at ,shushan given in the third year of his reign by the ,persian king ,ahasuerus3 a carnival which lasted an hundred and fourscore days--where the beds were of gold and silver upon a pavement of red and blue and white and black marble2 where were white1 green1 and blue hangings1 fastened with cords of fine linen and purple to silver rings and pillars of marble2 and where the people were given to drink1 in vessels of gold1 of royal wine in abundance1 according to the state of the king4 ,from the land of ,zoroaster1 therefore1 the ,greeks received their first lessons in gastronomy4 ,simplicity in their habits was a characteristic of the early ,greeks1 this simplicity extending in a marked degree to their cookery1 when the famous ,spartan black broth1 composed of pork-broth1 vinegar1 and salt1 became a national dish4 ,but this epoch of abstention was of comparatively short duration4 ,the spiritual sense was overcome by the carnal1 and1 imitating the ,arians1 they soon converted a natural craving into a hypersensuous pleasure4 ,the dinner or supper developed into an elaborate banquet1 partaken of on reclining couches1 accompanied by wines of ,corinth1 ,samos1 ,chios1 and ,tenedos1 the fumes of incense1 the strains of music1 and the singing of pages and beautiful maids4 ,the couches on which they partook of their repasts and offered their generous libations to the gods were ornamented with tortoise-shell1 ivory1 and bronze1 some being inlaid with pearls and precious stones2 the mattresses were of purple embroidered with gold4 ,then ,archestratus1 the ,syracusan1 who had travelled far and wide in quest of alimentary dainties of different lands1 was the ,carme of the ,attic cuisine4 ,his much-lauded poem on ,gastronomy is unfortunately lost to posterity1 and thus it may not be compared with that of ,berchoux1 composed twenty centuries later4 ,this poem ,athenus has termed a treasure of light1 every verse of which was a precept1 and from which numerous cooks drew the principles of an art that rendered them illustrious4 ,the cook in the ,thesmophorus of ,dionysius1 however1 denounces ,archestratus1 his rules1 and his maxims4 ,but cooks are notoriously jealous and prone to asperse their rivals1 just as a jealous woman will decry another member of her sex whom men admire4 ,his aspersions1 therefore1 are not to be weighed against the avalanche of encomiums that ,archestratus has received4 ,it was to the select few who appreciated the delicacies and importance of his art that his poem was addressed4 ,he spoke with authority1 and not as the scribes4 ,witness his stately opening stanza1 one of the few surviving fragments of his epic3 ,i write these precepts for immortal ,greece1 ,that round a table delicately spread1 ,or three1 or four1 may sit in choice repast1 ,or five at most4 ,who otherwise shall dine ,are like a troop marauding for their prey4 ,mithcus1 another famous ,hellenic guide to epicurean delights1 wrote a book entitled ,the ,sicilian ,cook1 which has been mentioned by ,plato2 but this was written in prose1 and was the product of a former native of ,sicily1 whence ,greece was largely accustomed to draw her supply of culinary masters4 ,among the most distinguished of ,sicilian craftsmen was ,trimalchio1 whose cunning is said to have been so great that when he could not procure scarce and much coveted fish he could counterfeit their form and flavour so deftly as to deceive even ,neptune himself4 ,the cook of ,nicomedes1 ,king of the ,babylonians1 was accustomed to serve him with anchovies1 made in imitation of the real fish1 at such times as his majesty expressed a desire for anchovies on a sea voyage4 ,a turnip1 disguised by oil1 salt1 poppy-seed1 and other seasonings1 was the basis of the plat1 the king1 as ,euphron1 the comic writer1 records1 smacking his lips over the dish and saying that cooks were equally as useful as poets1 and even more skilful4 ,that1 with the aid of olives1 salt pork1 onion1 parsley1 condiments1 and stuffing1 with veal as the medium1 an accomplished cook can prepare a fair semblance to an overdone quail is proverbial4 ,but how a turnip can be made to counterfeit anchovies is not so apparent4 ,the celebrated repasts of ,socrates1 at which the guests were seated on chairs1 were an exception to the luxury of the times2 these entertainments were extremely frugal1 the cheer being of an intellectual more than a corporeal nature--a mere collation1 444 light and choice1 ,of ,attic taste1 with wine4 ,epicurus1 the ,athenian who flourished three hundred years before the ,christian era1 is wrongly supposed by many to have been one of the dediti ventri--a slave to appetite and living only for epicurean pleasure3 a supposition that his name naturally implies4 ,but it should be recollected that in proposing pleasure or happiness as the supreme good1 he qualified this doctrine by the maxim that temperance is necessary in order to enjoy the noble and durable pleasures which are proper to human nature4 ,however varied the fare and splendid the appointments1 the position of the ancients at table--resting on their left elbows and reclining on couches as the gnomon and clepsydra noiselessly marked the lapse of the hours--must have been not only irksome1 but one greatly furthering stomachic maladies4 ,besides1 it must be borne in mind that the ancients ate with their fingers1 while the use of emetics1 first in vogue among the ,egyptians1 and later on among the ,romans in order to forefend satiety and enable them to prolong their saturnalia1 was extremely common4 ,the ten books of ,athenus give us a complete manual of olden ,greek cookery1 and ,herodotus1 ,plutarch1 and other authors1 if not as exhaustive1 are most fertile in references to the subject4 ,plato1 who denounced epicureanism and preferred olives to all other kinds of food1 often making his meal from them alone1 nevertheless praises ,attic pastry1 and extols the baker ,thearion1 who was noted for the perfection of his bread4 ,besides beef and mutton1 kids1 the domestic swine1 fowls1 the wild boar1 the roebuck1 hares1 rabbits1 and numerous game and song birds1 the ,greeks were especially fond of the peacock1 served in all his panoply of plumage4 ,as the ,romans considered the mullet the king of fish1 so the ,greeks regarded the sole as the piscis nobilis4 ,they were served then1 as now1 fried1 when their size admitted1 and likewise were prepared with a savoury sauce under the name of citharus1-- ,the cook produced an ample dish ,of frizzled soles1 those best of fish1 ,embrowned1 and wafting through the room1 ,all sputtering still1 a rich perfume4 ,suckling pig was considered a signal delicacy1 its charms no doubt having been set forth in melodious measures in the lost poem of ,archestratus4 ,indeed1 who knows but that the sportive grace of the ,dissertation upon ,roast ,pig may1 after all1 be ,grecian rather than ,anglo-,saxon in essence1 and be merely an inspiration caught from some forgotten ,attic author8 ,the sea1 on its part1 yielded its infinite treasures1 including the oyster1 the earth contributing its varied fruits and esculents4 ,strong and sweet wine was a common beverage1 both mixed1 unmixed1 spiced1 and scented4 ,after fish and game1 pork was the most esteemed food set upon the salvers of ancient ,greece and ,rome--a food in which epicures believed themselves to have discovered fifty different flavours1 or fifty parts1 each possessing an individual taste4 ,at large entertainments1 and even where the guests were only equal in number to the ,muses1 it was customary to serve pigs roasted whole1 stuffed with sausages and bursting with boudins1 or black pudding4 ,the pig was salted by the ancients in order to preserve it2 but ,apicius recommended1 for keeping purposes1 that medium-sized pieces of pork be chosen and covered with a paste composed of salt1 vinegar1 and honey1 and be stored in carefully closed vessels4 ,of ancient recipes1 ,apicius and ,athenus present a vast array4 ,soyer also1 in his aspiring1 cumbersome1 and learned ,pantropheon1 affords convenient access to the mysteries of the ,greek and ,roman kitchens4 ,but the only way to pass intelligently upon the cookery of the ancients would be to try it4 ,it is true that we do not possess their marvellous digestive powers ere their vigour became impaired by centuries of unbridled luxury4 ,to young and vigorous stomachs it is possible that1 if accompanied by the appropriate wines1 some of their dishes1 executed by a skilful chef who would exercise extreme caution as regards the use of cummin1 rue1 coriander1 and boiled grapes1 might prove an agreeable surprise party at a dinner la ,grecque or la ,romaine4 ,so light a touch and so discriminating a palate1 however1 are necessary in employing certain herbs and spices2 so much1 moreover1 depends upon knowing the precise moment when an entre or a ragout has received its just caress from the flames1 that only an artist of the foremost rank would be able to reproduce some of these dishes with success4 ,two especially prized dishes were those termed myma and mattya--the one composed of all kinds of finely minced viands and fowls1 seasoned with vinegar1 cheese1 onions1 honey1 raisins1 and various spices2 the other a fowl boiled with a great variety of herbs4 ,boil a fat hen and some young cocks just beginning to crow1 with some vinegar added to the water1 and in summer with sour grapes in place of the vinegar1 then remove the herbs from the vessel in which they are cooked and serve portions of the fowls on the herbs1 if you wish to make a dish worthy to be eaten with your wine1 enjoins ,artimidor in his treatise of cooking4 ,finally1 ,athenus1 in the ,banquet of the ,learned1 has the scholarly host ,laurentius give his recipe for what he terms the ,dish of ,roses1 prepared1 he states1 in such a way that you may not only have the ornament of a garland on your head1 but also in yourself4 ',having pounded a quantity of the most fragrant roses in a mortar1' says ,laurentius1 ',i put in the brains of birds and pigs boiled and thoroughly cleansed of all the sinews1 and also the yolks of eggs1 and with them oil1 and pickle-juice1 and pepper and wine4 ,and having pounded all these things carefully together1 ,i put them into a new dish1 applying a gentle and steady fire to them4' ,and while saying this he uncovered the dish1 and diffused such a sweet perfume over the whole party that one of the guests present said with great truth3 ',the winds perfumed1 the balmy gale1 convey ,through heav'n1 through earth1 and all the arial way'-- so excessive was the fragrance which was diffused from the roses4 ,truly a noble pot-pourri--meet for the gods of high ,olympus4 ,the pickle-juice1 the pepper1 and the wine denote the address of a master in disguising any possible taint of the pen1 while the yolks of eggs and the oil would necessarily blend and assimilate with the attar of the rose-leaves4 ,thus does a great architect plan the construction of a cathedral1 or a wizard of the brush adjust his pigments upon a canvas that is destined to become immortal4 ,the early ,greeks had four meals daily--the breakfast1 or acratisma2 the dinner1 ariston or deipnon2 the relish1 hesperisma2 and the supper1 dorpe4 ,as luxury and cookery advanced1 luncheon took the place of the midday dinner1 the latter1 among the wealthier classes1 gradually being postponed to a later hour4 ,at all great feasts and dinners of ceremony1 which it was customary to hold in the evening1 the bill of fare was presented to the guests1 and huge chalices were offered them to quaff from4 ,the frequent and detailed references by the old ,greek dramatists1 poets and writers to eating1 drinking and banqueting1 and to the various products employed as food1 make it apparent to what an extent gratification of appetite and feasting prevailed4 ,the reader who would penetrate further into the mysteries of ,grecian cookery may be referred with advantage to ,homer's repast of ,ulysses at the home of ,eumus1 ,athenus's ,marriage of ,caranus1 and ,barthlemy's ,feast of ,dinias4 ,but ,homer's fare which he allowed his heroes was1 with few exceptions1 extremely simple4 ,although he mentions many kinds of wine1 he praises moderation1 and never represents either fish or game as being put upon the table1 but viands of simple kind and wholesome sort1 such as were calculated to render man vigorous in body and mind1 the meat being all roasted and chiefly beef4 ,athenus1 in particular1 presents the ,greek and ,oriental kitchens in all their aspects1 and1 with his marvellous erudition1 proves himself a very ,burton of gastronomy--the most accomplished ,master of ,feasts that antiquity has produced4 ,to turn the pages of the ,deipnosophists1 or ,banquet of the ,learned is to enter a larder of which he only holds the key4 ,thus he introduces ,damoxenus1 the old ,greek comic writer1 who picturesquely portrays a master cook of the period1 superintending his saucepans and directing the preparation of the feast3 ,i never enter in my kitchen1 ,i6 ,but sit apart1 and in the cool1 direct1 ,observant of what passes1--scullions toil4 444 ,i guide the mighty whole1 ,explore the causes1 prophesy the dish4 ',tis thus ,i speak3 ',leave1 leave that ponderous ham2 ,keep up the fire1 and lively play the flame ,beneath those lobster patties2' ',patient here1 ,fix't as a statue1 skim1 incessant skim4' ',steep well this small glociscus in its sauce1 ,and boil that sea-dog in a cullender4' ',this eel requires more salt and marjoram2' ',roast well that piece of kid on either side ,equal2' ',that sweetbread boil not over much4' ',tis thus1 my friend1 ,i make the concert play4 99 99 99 99 99 ,and then no useless dish my table crowds4 ,harmonious ranged1 and consonantly just1 ,as in a concert instruments resound1 ,my ordered dishes in their courses chime4 ,the ideal cook is depicted with equal picturesqueness in a lengthy tribute by ,dionysius wherein he thus sums up his qualifications1-- ,know on thyself thy genius must depend4 ,all books of cookery1 all helps of art1 ,all critic learning1 all commenting notes1 ,are vain1 if void of genius thou wouldst cook6 ,cratinus1 in his play of the ,giants1 extols the merits of ,sicilian cookery3 ,consider now how sweet the earth doth smell1 ,how fragrantly the smoke ascends to heaven3 ,there lives1 ,i fancy1 here within this cave1 ,some perfume-seller1 or ,sicilian cook4 ,and ,hegesander1 in his ,brothers1 presents an archimagirus1 proud as ,lucifer1 who sings his own praises in the following grandiloquent strain3 ,when ,i am call'd to serve a funeral supper1 ,the mourners just return'd1 silent and sad1 ,clothed in funereal habits--,i but raise ,the cover of my pot1 and every face ,assumes a smile1 the tears are wash'd away4 ,charm'd with the grateful flavour1 they believe ,they are invited to a wedding-feast4 99 99 99 99 99 ,let me but have the necessary means1 ,a kitchen amply stored1 and you shall see ,that like enchantment ,i will spread around ,a charm as powerful as the siren's voice4 99 99 99 99 99 ,you know not yet ,the worth of him you speak to--look on those ,whom you see seated round1 not one of them ,but would his fortune risk to make me his4 ,philemon1 in turn1 the witty ,athenian bard1 represents a cook as pluming himself upon his cunning1 and saying3 ,those who are dead already1 when they've smelled ,one of my dishes1 come to life again4 ,anthippus1 too1 presents a graduate of the range who was no less proficient in the resources of his art1 and who devised his dishes according to the age of those who were to partake of them1-- ,insensible the palate of old age1 ,more difficult than the soft lips of youth ,to move1 ,i put much mustard in their dish2 ,with quickening sauces make their stupor keen1 ,and lash the lazy blood that creeps within4 ,nor does ,athenus fail to depict a glutton of the period1 transcribed from ,pherecrates3 ,a4 ,i scarcely in one day1 unless ,i'm forced1 ,can eat two bushels and a half of food4 ,b4 ,a most unhappy man6 how have you lost ,your appetite1 so as now to be content ,with the scant rations of one ship of war8 ,milo of ,crotona1 ,titormus the tolian1 and ,astydamas the ,milesian were still more celebrated2 and even ,ulysses in his old age is represented by ,homer as eating endless dishes and quaffing unceasing cups of wine4 ,gargantua and ,pantagruel evidently existed long before the days of ,rabelais1 and time will run back to fetch the age of gluttony1 as well as that of gold4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,with ,,lucullus ,,and ,,apicius ,whether woodcock or partridge1 what does it signify1 if the taste is the same8 ,but the partridge is dearer1 and therefore thought preferable4--,,martial1 ,epigrams1 xiii4 #gf4 ,passing from ,greece to ,italy1 we find frugality to have been a prominent trait of the early ,romans1 and porridge to have been the national dish until wheaten bread was introduced from ,athens4 ,like the ,greeks1 who received their initial lessons from the ,persians1 the ,romans derived their knowledge of cookery from ,attica1 whence they imported their first masters4 ,the ,romans proved apt scholars1 and soon outrivalled their instructors in the pleasures of the table1 where the pomp1 luxury1 and licentiousness of the times were carried to their furthest limit4 ,it is indeed well-nigh impossible to conceive the splendour1 prodigality1 and sensuality that prevailed during the ,republic and the ,empire1 when fabulous revenues were squandered at a single feast1 and gluttony and intemperance were the gods of the hour4 ,illustration3 ,,portrait ,,du ,,gourmand ,after ,carle ,vernet ,it was towards the decline of the ,republic1 during the period of ,pompey the ,great1 ,csar1 and ,lucullus1 that1 dispensing with the culinary preceptors of ,greece1 the ,roman cuisine attained its greatest celebrity4 ,for it was at this period that the great ravagers of the world1 who were to carry the name and arms of ,rome into distant lands1 brought their cooks with them1 who vied with one another in contributing the most appetising dishes of various countries4 ,it was then when ,antony1 intoxicated with the spoils of conquest and more than usually pleased with the artist of his kitchen1 sent for him at the dessert and presented him with a city of thirty-five thousand inhabitants--an example followed in a minor way by ,henry ,,viii of ,england1 who rewarded his cook for having composed a pudding of especial merit by the gift of a manor4 ,it was then that the ,sybarites bestowed public recompense and marks of distinction upon those who gave the most magnificent banquets1 and especially upon those who invented new dishes4#b ,it was then that the practised epicure professed to distinguish by the taste from what locality of ,italy a wild boar had been procured1 or whether a pike had been caught in the lower or upper ,tiber4 ,thus ,horace1 in one of the ,satires3 ,but say by what ,discernment are you taught ,to know that this voracious ,pike was caught ,where the full ,river's lenient ,waters glide1 ,or where the ,bridges break the rapid ,tide3 ,in the mid-,ocean1 or where ,tiber pays ,with broader ,course his ,tribute to the ,seas4#c ,it was then that the rich ,romans had at their villas magnificent piscin filled with fresh- and salt-water fishes that might be netted at a moment's notice to set before their guests4 ,in his ode ,on the ,prevailing ,luxury1 the ,venusian bard also alludes to these vivaria and the inordinate fondness for fish of the ,romans3 ,soon regal piles each rood of land ,will from the farmer's ploughshare take1 ,soon ponds be seen on every hand ,more spacious than the ,lucrine lake4#d ,the mansions of the wealthy were likewise provided with splendid aviaries filled with thrushes that were fed with millet and crushed figs mixed with wheaten flour4 ,cygnets and snow-white geese were held in great repute1 and when fattened upon green figs their livers were highly prized4 ,hortensius the consul was among the first to maintain salt-water ponds stocked with his favourite fish1 the red mullet of the ,mediterranean4 ,he was also the introducer of the peacock served in its feathers1 a dish extremely popular during the ,republic4 ,horace proved a better judge than his many moneyed hosts1 and chose the chicken in preference1 asserting that it was the costliness of the bird of ,juno and the glory of his glittering train more than the quality of the flesh that were prized4 ,artificial oyster-beds1 according to ,pliny1 were first formed at ,bai by ,sergius ,orata1 a contemporary of ,crassus the orator1 not for the gratification of gluttony1 but as a speculation from which he derived a large income4 ,he too was the first to adjudge the preminence for delicacy of flavour to the oysters of ,lake ,lucrinus4 ,preserves were subsequently formed by others for muren1 sea-snails1 and numerous saline delicacies4 ,like the ,hellenes1 the ,romans had three meals--the breakfast 7jentaculum71 the luncheon 7prandium71 and the dinner 7cena74 ,originally1 as has been the case with all peoples1 the dinner was held in the morning1 but with the progress of luxury and owing to the greater convenience to men of affairs1 it became gradually deferred to late afternoon or evening4 ,nine was the favourite number of guests at the cena4 ,it was a custom borrowed from the ,greeks to appoint a king or dictator of the feast1 who prescribed its laws1 which the guests were bound1 under penalties1 to obey4 ,by him the quantity of the cups to be drunk was decided1 ten bumpers being the usual allowance--nine in honour of the ,muses1 and one to ,apollo4 ,similar to the ,grecian custom1 every man who had a mistress was compelled to toast her when called upon4 ,to this a penalty was sometimes attached1 in which case the challenger was obliged to empty a cup to each letter of the lady's name4 ,when the gallant had reasons for secrecy1 he merely announced the number of cups which had to be drunk4 ,the place of tobacco was taken by perfumes at feasts1 a practice carried by the ,romans to great excess4 ,nard and other perfumes in use being extremely costly1 ,horace insists upon ,virgil contributing them when he comes to dine in the vale of ,ustica4 ,catullus1 also1 who asks his friend ,fabullus to dinner1 agrees to supply the perfumes1 providing ,fabullus bring with him all the other requisites4 ,the spiciness of the essences doubtless spurred the appetite1 and tended to produce a pleasant languor4#e ,very numerous plants and herbs were employed as flavourings in the kitchens of the ancients1 such as dill1 anise-seed1 hyssop1 thyme1 pennyroyal1 rue1 cummin1 poppy-seed1 shallots1 and1 naturally1 onions1 garlic1 and leeks--savoury then taking the place of parsley1 which1 though known1 was used more as a decoration and worn by guests as an adornment4 ,cummin was largely utilised for seasoning4 ,sorrel was cultivated by the ,romans to increase its size1 and1 according to ,apicius1 was eaten stewed with mustard and seasoned with oil and vinegar4 ,the carrot was stewed1 boiled with cummin and a little oil1 and eaten as a salad1 with salt1 oil1 and vinegar4 ,brocoli was an especial favourite with ,apicius1 the most tender parts being boiled1 with the addition of pepper1 chopped onions1 cummin and coriander seed bruised together1 and a little oil and sun-made wine4 ,turnips were boiled and seasoned with rue1 cummin1 and benzoin1 pounded in a mortar1 adding afterwards honey1 vinegar1 gravy1 boiled grapes1 and oil4 ,asparagus1 which ,lamb says inspires gentle thoughts1 was cultivated with notable care4 ,the finest heads were dried1 and when wanted were placed in hot water and boiled4 ,lucullus and ,apicius ate only those that were grown in the environs of ,nesis1 a city of ,campania4 ,beets1 mallows1 artichokes1 and cucumbers were greatly relished and elaborately prepared1 and garlic1 extolled by ,virgil and decried by ,horace1 was generously used4 ,apicius1 in his treatise ,de re ,culinaria1 gives numerous recipes for cooking the cabbage--the silken-leaved1 curled1 and hard white varieties4 ,from these recipes we at once may judge of his resources1 and obtain an idea of a master vegetable-cook of the period3 #a4 ,take only the most delicate and tender part of the cabbage1 which boil1 and then pour off the water2 season it with cummin seed1 salt1 old wine1 oil1 pepper1 alisander1 mint1 rue1 coriander seed1 gravy1 and oil4 #b4 ,prepare the cabbage in the manner just mentioned1 and make a seasoning of coriander seed1 onion1 cummin seed1 pepper1 a small quantity of oil1 and wine made of sun raisins4 #c4 ,when you have boiled the cabbages in water put them into a saucepan and stew them with gravy1 oil1 wine1 cummin seed1 pepper1 leeks1 and green coriander4 #d4 ,add to the preceding ingredients flour of almonds1 and raisins dried in the sun4 #e4 ,prepare them again in the above manner1 and cook them with green olives4 ,to what an extent strange condiments1 herbs1 and other seasonings were employed1 as well as to what a task the human stomach was subjected1 will be apparent from a recipe1 given by the same authority1 for a thick sauce for a boiled chicken3 ,put the following ingredients into a mortar3 anise-seed1 dried mint1 and lazer-root 7similar to asaftida72 cover them with vinegar2 add dates2 pour in garum1 oil1 and a small quantity of mustard-seeds2 reduce all to a proper thickness with red wine warmed2 and then pour this same over your chicken1 which should previously be boiled in anise-seed water4 ,with regard to the olden wines1 let us be duly grateful for the progress of viniculture1 and thankful that we may read of them1 rather than have to partake of them1 to rue the ,katzenjammer of the following morning4 ,for if one must have a headache on rare occasions as the penalty of dining1 it were assuredly less to be deplored if obtained through a grand vintage of the ,marne or the ,mdoc than from a wine mixed with sea-water or spices1 or old ,falernian cloyed with honey from ,mount ,hymettus4 ,by all means1 if we must drink an excessively sweet wine1 let it be1 at most1 a glass of ,hermitage paille or ,muscat ,rivesaltes1 iced to snow6 ,the tables1 the plate1 and the dinner-service corresponded with the rarity of the viands and beverages4 ,cicero's table of lemon-wood cost him two hundred thousand sesterces1 or over seven thousand dollars4 ,besides being made of the most precious foreign woods1 veined and spotted to imitate the tiger's and the leopard's skin1 they were also wrought of ivory1 silver1 bronze1 and tortoise-shell4 ,the drinking-cups of gold and glass1 the nimbus and ampulla--crystal chalices1 ewers1 and flagons in which the luxurious were wont to mix myrrh1 spikenard1 and other perfumes with their wine--were equally costly4 ,martial extols a jewelled cup3 ,see how the gold1 begemmed with ,scythian emeralds1 glistens6 ,how many fingers does it deprive of jewels6 ,his lovely description of an exquisitely chased wine-cup of gold1 received from ,instantius ,rufus1 will also be recalled4 ,again1 he praises a gold dinner-service3 ,do not dishonour such large gold dishes with an insignificant mullet2 it ought at least to weigh two pounds4 ,i see1 says ,seneca1 the shell of the tortoise bought for immense sums and ornamented with the most elaborate care2 ,i see tables and pieces of wood valued at the price of a senator's estate1 which are all the more precious the more knots the tree has been twisted into by disease4 ,i see murrhine-cups1 for luxury would be too cheap if men did not drink to one another out of hollow gems the wine to be afterwards thrown up again4 ,in vain ,pompey the ,great and ,licinius ,crassus strove to cheek the riotous table extravagance1 which continued despite previous and subsequent sumptuary laws for its suppression4 ,to-day1 says ,pliny1 a cook costs as much as a triumph1 a fish as much as a cook1 and no mortal costs more than the slave who knows best how to ruin his master4 ,fabulous prices were paid for fish1 notably for the famed red mullet or sea-barbel4 ,tiberius1 who was an exception1 and was not partial to this fish1 on being presented with an unusually large specimen1 weighing four and a half pounds1 sent it to the market to be sold4 ,i will be greatly surprised1 he observed1 if the mullet is not purchased by ,apicius or ,octavius4 ,it was borne off in triumph by ,octavius1 who became celebrated for having paid two hundred dollars for a fish sold by the emperor and that ,apicius himself had not secured4 ,seneca also states that the mullet was looked upon as tainted unless it expired in the hands of the guests1 who were provided with glass vessels in which to put their fish1 in order the better to perceive their changes and motions in the last agony betwixt life and death4 ,look how it reddens6 cries one2 there is no vermilion like it2 look at those lateral veins1 see how the grey brightens upon its head1 and now it is at its last gasp1 it pales and its inanimate body fades to a single hue4 ,the mullet of the ocean is certainly a meritorious fish1 observes ,baron ,brisse1 but how greatly superior is that of the ,mediterranean6 ,this greatly valued fish was the ,european ,mullus barbatus1 one of the forty or more different species of the red mullet1 found chiefly in the subtropical parts of the ,indo-,pacific ,ocean4 ,by far the most abundant in the ,mediterranean1 it is nevertheless not uncommon to the coasts of ,england and ,ireland1 though nowhere does it attain so delicate a flavour as in the ,mediterranean4 ,the name is said to have reference to the scarlet colour of the sandal or shoe worn by the ,roman consuls1 and in later times by the emperors1 which was called mullus4 ,like the ruby1 the mullet increased rapidly in price when it exceeded the usual size--the largest weighing scarcely three or four pounds4 ,suetonius is authority for the statement that this fish was so esteemed in his time that three large specimens were sold for thirty thousand sesterces1 or more than a thousand dollars1 which caused ,tiberius to enact sumptuary laws and tax the provisions brought to market4 ,the red mullet1 although much less highly thought of than in olden days1 is still in request by the modern ,french epicure4 ,francatelli cautions that it should never be drawn2 it is sufficient to remove the gills only1 as the liver and trail are considered the best part--an opinion held by the ,romans4 ,it is possible that1 owing to this circumstance1 it has been termed the sea-woodcock4 ,the mullet was served by the ,romans with a seasoning of pepper1 rue1 onions1 dates1 and mustard1 to which was added the flesh of the sea-hedgehog reduced to a pulp and oil4 ,when the priceless liver alone was to be eaten by an emperor or a senator1 it was cooked and then seasoned with pepper1 salt1 or a little garum1 some oil was added1 and hare's or fowl's liver1 and oil poured over the whole4 ,the turbot was another favourite supplied by the sea1 and one will remember ,martial's panegyric concerning it3 ,however great the dish that holds the turbot1 the turbot is still greater than the dish4 ,from the foam-fleeced flocks of ,proteus many other fish with strange names were transferred by the wealthy ,romans to their vast aquaria--the sargus1 the harp-fish1 the hyca1 the synodon1 the hespidus1 the chromis1 the callichithys1 ,the orphus1 the sea-grayling1 too1 who haunts ,the places where the sea-weed most abounds4 ,the huge tunny and sturgeon1 the tiny anchovy1 and1 in fact1 nearly every denizen of the ocean appeared upon the ,roman tables in some form4 ,the dolphin was a sacred fish1 and was left unmolested to pilot ,triton's car4 ,even the polypus1 sea-urchin1 and cuttlefish were held in great esteem4 ,the scaurus or char1 a species unknown to us1 and the murex1 an edible purple mussel of which the finest flavoured came from ,bai were highly prized4 ,fatted eels were considered a great delicacy1 and among fresh-water species the tench1 carp1 and pike were the most employed4 ,piscis was the ,phryne of the ,roman feasts1 and dolphins1 whales1 and mermaids appear to be the only species that were not consumed4 ,according to ,juvenal1 who relates the story at great length1 the members of ,domitian's cabinet were one day suddenly summoned to the ,alban ,villa1 where they were obliged to remain in waiting while the emperor gave audience to a fisherman who had brought him an unusually large ,rhombus1 and when they were finally admitted they found they had nothing to debate about except whether the fish was to be minced or cooked in a special dish1 there being none of sufficient size in the imperial kitchens4 ,after mature deliberation1 a special receptacle was decided upon1 when the audience was dismissed4 ,the turbot was served with a sauce piquante4 ,nor were the affluent nobles and business men far behind the triumvirs1 consuls1 and emperors in their ruinous manner of living4 ,autocracy set the pace1 and her wealthy vassals were not slow to follow4 ,trimalchio1 the moneyed landholder1 was accustomed to serve a wild boar whole1 with a number of live fieldfares inside1 ready to fly out as soon as they were given their liberty by ,carpus1 his professional carver4 ,these1 as they fluttered about the room1 were caught by fowlers with reeds tipped with bird-lime4 ,the minute account of one of ,trimalchio's dinners1 given by the licentious ,latin classicist ,petronius ,arbiter1 descriptive of the viands1 beverages1 service1 and table customs of the day1 may be advantageously consulted by those whose powers of digestion are strong enough to enable them to consider a representative feast during the reign of ,nero at the home of this ostentatious host4 ,the elaborate first course is described as terminating with the appearance of a servant bearing a silver skeleton so artfully constructed that its joints and backbone turned in all directions2 when1 having cast it several times upon the table and causing it to assume various postures1 ,trimalchio cried out1 ,of such are we--let us live while we may6 ,the first course finished1 the second was presented in the form of a large circular tray with the twelve signs of the zodiac surrounding it1 upon each of which the arranger had placed an appropriate dish--on ,aries1 ram's-head pies2 on ,taurus1 a piece of roasted beef2 on ,gemini1 kidneys and lamb's fry2 on ,cancer1 a crown2 on ,leo1 ,african figs2 on ,virgo1 a young sow's haslet2 on ,libra1 a pair of scales1 in one of which were tarts1 in the other cheese-cakes2 on ,scorpio1 a little sea-fish of the same name2 on ,sagittarius1 a hare2 on ,capricorn1 a lobster2 on ,aquarius1 a goose2 on ,piscis1 two mullets1 while in the centre spread a green turf on which lay a honeycomb4 ,it will be readily apparent that the modern ,french chef does not stand alone in his skill of producing a pice-monte4 ,meanwhile1 an ,egyptian slave carried bread in a silver portable oven1 singing a song in praise of wine flavoured with laserpitium4 ,whereupon four attendants came dancing in to the sound of music1 and1 removing the upper part of the tray1 there was revealed on a second tray beneath stuffed fowls1 a sow's paps1 and in the middle a hare fitted with wings to resemble ,pegasus4 ,at the several corners stood four figures of ,marsyas spouting a highly seasoned sauce on a school of fish4 ,at the third course a very large hog was brought in1 much larger even than the wild boar that had been previously served4 ,this was followed by a young calf1 boiled whole1 with more wine1 perfumes1 fruits1 and sweetmeats--thrushes in pastry1 stuffed with nuts and raisins1 and quinces stuck over with prickles to resemble sea-urchins4 ,only command him1 exclaimed the host1 and my cook will make you a fish out of a pig's chitterlings1 a wood-pigeon out of the lard1 a turtle-dove out of the gammon1 and a hen out of the shoulder6 ,apparently1 the artist of ,trimalchio was no less fertile in resources and liberal ideas of expenditure than the chef of the ,prince of ,soubise1 who1 on being taken to task by his employer for including fifty hams for a single supper1 replied3 ,only one will appear upon the table1 monseigneur2 the rest are not the less necessary for my espagnole1 my blonds1 my garnitures1 my-- ,bertrand1 you are plundering me4 ,oh1 monseigneur1 replied the conjurer1 you do not understand our resources2 say the word1 and these fifty hams which confound you--,i will put them all into a glass bottle no bigger than your thumb6 ,to be sure1 the accounts given by ,petronius ,arbiter1 ,juvenal1 ,martial1 and other satirists must be taken with some limitation4 ,yet1 making all due allowance for exaggeration1 it is hardly to be wondered at that many of the olden rulers and opulent personages1 armed with unbounded power and possessed of unlimited riches1 should have yielded so abjectly to luxury and vice as to have fully warranted the stricture of ,juvenal3 ,the baffled sons must feel the same desires1 ,and act the same mad follies as their sires4 ,vice has attained its zenith4444 ,these accounts1 moreover1 attested as they are by serious annalists1 may not be dismissed as largely imaginative or grossly exaggerated4 ,the strictures on the besetting vices that occur in the contemporary works of historians1 moralists1 philosophers1 and poets are far too vehement and voluminous to leave any doubt of the inordinate abuse of the table among the ancients1 particularly among the ,romans1 when their wealthy capital1 as ,propertius records1 was beset all round in its own victories4 ,it was the period of insatiable voracity and the peacock's plume4 ,even ,martial was careful to state that it was vices1 not personages1 to which his scourge was applied4 ,his caustic and highly seasoned epigrams deal largely with the dinner-table1 and from these one may derive a most realistic idea of the bill of fare of his contemporaries1 as well as of the varied and luxurious character of the presents made to the guests at feasts4 ,the excesses of eating and drinking are roundly denounced by him at every turn1 while his picture of the crapulous ,santra in the ,seventh ,book is only equalled by the ,portrait of a ,gourmand of ,carle ,vernet1 or ,spenser's etching of ,gluttony in the ,faerie ,queene4 ,horace in particular1 a scholar1 poet1 and man of the world1 the friend of ,mcenas1 and an onlooker and frequenter of society1 may be accepted as a competent authority on the table manners and customs of the times4 ,no one more than he was aware of the gross extravagance and intemperance of the age4 ,nor has any writer depicted his own and the everyday life of the ,romans more vividly4 ,to peruse him attentively in the ,satires1 ,epistles1 ,epodes1 and ,odes1 is to take part in the feasts1 be admitted to the inner circle of the optimates1 knock at the door of ,lydia1 and join in the pageant of the ,sacra ,via4 ,the table of ,mcenas1 the rich voluptuary and dilettante1 who had a palace on the ,esquiline ,hill1 where ,horace was often a guest1 was widely celebrated4 ,as the poet was a visitor also at the palace of ,augustus1 and numbered among his friends the most eminent men of ,rome1 he had unusual opportunities to become acquainted both with the vie intime and haute cuisine of his day4 ,while not a gastronomer1 he was far from averse to good living1 though1 from his digestion not being of the soundest1 he had frequent cause to rue the sumptuous banquets1 borrowed from the ,asiatic ,greeks1 which were in vogue at the time4 ,and while he was a frequent attendant at the entertainments of the wealthy1 we nevertheless find him constantly censuring their intemperance and extravagance at table4 ,for himself1 he would have simple dinners1 richly dressed1 and let the strong toil give relish to the feast4 ,rare old ,ccuban1 ,falernian1 and ,massic1 ,mcenas might pour out at home from his well-filled amphor into chased crystal cups and vessels of gold--at the ,sabine farm the common ,sabine wine in modest goblets would alone be tendered him4 ,if we may regard the elaborate repast of ,nasidienus as a typical one1 we may readily conceive the nightmares that must have ensued from such a plenitude of viands and wines and such copious libations4 ,the student of ,horace will remember the menu4 ,first a ,lucanian boar1 surrounded by excitants to the appetite-- ,rapes1 ,lettuce1 ,radishes1 ,anchovy-,brine ,with ,skerrets1 and the ,lees of ,coan ,wine4 ,fish and wild fowl1 lampreys and shrimps1 succeeded1 washed down with brimmers of ,ccuban1 ,alban1 ,falernian1 and vintages of ,greece2 and finally1 as the feast and the night wore on1 ,the ,slaves behind in mighty ,charger bore ,a ,crane in ,pieces torn1 and powder'd o'er ,with ,salt and ,flour1 and a white ,gander's ,liver1 ,stuff'd fat with ,figs1 bespoke the curious ,giver2 ,besides the ,wings of ,hares1 for1 so it seems1 ,no man of ,luxury the ,back esteems4 ,then saw we ,black-birds with o'er roasted ,breast1 ,laid on the ,board1 and ,ring-,doves ,rump-less drest6 ,delicious ,fare6 did not our ,host explain ,their various ,qualities in endless ,strain1 ,their various ,natures2 but we fled the ,feast1 ,resolved in ,vengeance nothing more to taste1 ,as if ,canidia1 with empoison'd ,breath1 ,worse than a ,serpent's1 blasted it with ,death4#f ,that ,nasidienus was proverbially penurious1 was guilty of purchasing tainted game in order to save expense1 and would have been chary of his wines had it not been for ,servilius1 who cried loudly for larger goblets1 leads one to conclude that even his repast was far below those of the pampered upper classes in its prodigality4 ,apicius1 who is referred to by ,pliny1 ,seneca1 ,juvenal1 and ,martial1 is said to have squandered nearly four million dollars in riotous living1 when1 looking over his accounts1 he found he had only about a tenth of that amount remaining1 and1 unwilling to starve on such a pittance1 he poisoned himself4 ,of the three persons bearing the name of ,apicius1 one of whom lived in the times of ,sulla1 another during the reign of ,tiberius1 and the third under ,trajan1 none is supposed to be the author of ,de re ,culinaria1 since published in so many different editions1 a work now ascribed to ,clius1 who1 in admiration of the renowned ,marcus ,gabius1 termed himself ,apicius4 ,the latter1 the richest of the three who bore the name by right1 vied with royalty in his regal tastes4 ,he is reported as having voyaged to ,africa expressly to ascertain whether the crawfish there were superior to those he was accustomed to have at ,minturn2 but finding them inferior1 he returned immediately1 without setting foot to land4 ,look at ,nomentanus and ,apicius1 says ,seneca1 who digest all the good things1 as they call them1 of the sea and the land1 and review upon their tables the whole animal kingdom4 ,look at them as they lie on beds of roses1 gloating over their banquet and delighting their ears with music1 their eyes with exhibitions1 their palates with flavours4 ,where the deliciously scented cyclamen carpets the shore of the ,mediterranean in myriads at ,bai1 ,apicius repaired to savour shell-fish--the manna of the sea--and from the self-same sea that laves the isle of ,capri and rolls its azure wave into the famed blue grotto1 ,tiberius sent turbots to him that ,apicius was not rich enough to buy himself4 ,yet far exceeding ,apicius1 who was almost deified for discovering how to maintain oysters fresh and alive during long journeys1 was his predecessor ,lucullus1 the wealthy general1 a great patron of learning and the arts1 as well as the king of epicures4 ,juvenal has etched his portrait in four lines3 ,stretch'd on the unsocial couch1 he rolls his eyes ,o'er many an orb of matchless form and size1 ,selects the fairest to receive his plate1 ,and at one meal devours a whole estate4 ,the ,monte ,cristo of ,naples1 he pierced a mountain to place two of his country villas in closer communication and to conduct the sea-water to one of them1 where he had constructed a huge aquarium for sea-fish4 ,his carvers were paid at the rate of four thousand a year4 ,the various dining-rooms at his ,neapolitan palace were designed according to the costliness of the repasts which were given in them1 the saloon of ,apollo being the most sumptuous4 ,cicero and ,pompey1 resolving one day to surprise him1 presented themselves unceremoniously1 and1 upon being pressed to remain to dinner1 assented on condition that he would go to no extra trouble4 ,summoning his major-domo1 he dismissed him with the simple command3 ,place two more covers in the saloon of ,apollo--the cost of the dinner in this apartment being fixed at a thousand dollars per plate4 ,no review of the ,roman table1 however brief1 would be complete without retelling the story of ,lucullus as his own host4 ,on this occasion1 when1 through some misunderstanding1 he was without guests for dinner1 his cook appeared as usual to receive his orders4 ,i am alone1 said ,lucullus2 whereupon his servitor1 thinking that a five-hundred-dollar dinner would suffice1 acted accordingly4 ,at the conclusion of his repast1 his face flushed with the juices of ,falernian1 ,lucullus sent for his minister of the interior and took him severely to task4 ,there were no fig-peckers1 and the prized spawn of the sea-lamprey was missing4 ,the cook was profuse in his apologies4 ,but1 seigneur1 you were alone-- ,it is precisely when ,i happen to be alone that you require to pay especial attention to the dinner2 at such times you must remember that ,lucullus dines with ,lucullus4 ,the great dining-room of ,claudius1 termed ,mercury1 was constructed on an equally magnificent scale4 ,but this was eclipsed by ,nero's marvellous ,domus aurea1 which1 through a circular movement of its sides and ceiling1 counterfeited the changes of the skies and represented the different seasons of the year1 while at intervals during the repast flowers and essences were showered down upon the guests4 ,the gluttonous feasts of ,verres1 ,claudius1 ,nero1 ,vitellius1 ,domitian1 and the rest of the ,roman potentates are familiar to the student of ancient history4 ,claudius1 who had usually six hundred guests at his feasts1 died of an indigestion of mushrooms1 facilitated1 it is said1 by a poisoned feather applied to his throat4 ,tiberius is also said to have met his death through an asphyxia of poisonous mushrooms1 seconded by suffocation on the part of his favourite ,macro1 who in turn was put to death by ,caligula4 ,caligula was noted for the fabulous sums spent upon his suppers1 while ,csar is credited with a four months' supper bill of more than five millions sterling4 ,the present of this monarch1 during one of his table debauches1 of a sum equivalent to eighty thousand dollars to his charioteer ,eutychus is the largest table present recorded of the ,romans4 ,seneca states that one of his suppers cost nearly half a million1 and he also it was who gave his charger ,incitatus barley mixed with wine in a vase of gold4 ,vitellius spent not less than fifteen thousand dollars for each of his repasts1 the composition of his favourite dishes requiring that vessels should constantly ply between the ,gulf of ,venice and the ,straits of ,cadiz4 ,the flocks of flamingos placidly feeding in the ,pontine marshes dreaded his fowlers--he had dishes made of their tongues4 ,later on1 their haunts were invaded by ,heliogabalus1 who preferred their brains4#g ,the life and reign of ,vitellius were a continuous orgy1 and his name was bequeathed to a multitude of dishes4 ,according to ,suetonius1 ,tiberius1 who was inordinately fond of fig-peckers and mushrooms1 presented ,sabinus the author with eight thousand dollars for having composed a dialogue in which the fig-pecker1 mushroom1 oyster1 and thrush were the dramatis person4 ,as the author and the poet are proverbially scantily remunerated1 it is easy to imagine the wealth that a competent chef could command in the days when the haughty mistress of the world1 sated with conquest and exultant with victory1 lapsed into luxury and sensuality1 while a constant stream of riches flowed into her treasury from tributary rulers and oppressed and spoliated nations4 ,the truffle and the snail were well known to the ancients4 ,the speckled trout1 of which there appears to be no mention by the recorders1 seems to have been a neglected dainty4 ,how ,lucullus would have rejoiced at the sight of the pompano--that ruby of the salt-sea wave--and ,apicius have been transported at the apparition of a puff-paste pt of oyster-crabs6 ,the brilliant iridescent hues of the rainbow-trout would have held a ,roman epicure spellbound1 while a dish of terrapin or a celery-fed ,chesapeake canvasback might have decided the destinies of an empire4 ,what a burst of applause a platter of roast ruffed-grouse would have commanded from a senate6 ,were the soft-shell crab a denizen of ,bai1 or the whitefish1 as he attains supreme perfection in ,lake ,ontario1 a habitant of an ,italian tarn1 one can fancy how a feast of ,heliogabalus would have been prolonged4 ,that there are still as good fish in the sea as ever were caught seems an anomaly1 in view of the voracity of the old ,latins for this form of food4 ,history has recorded less of the excesses of the table during the reigns of ,trajan1 ,hadrian1 ,marcus ,aurelius1 ,septimius ,severus1 and even during the dissolute monarchies of ,commodus and ,caracalla4 ,it would be wrong1 however1 to assume that these excesses were renounced1 even where the rulers did not themselves set the example1 or that they did not continue in a flagrant form4 ,the unbridled lust and gluttony of ,commodus were scarcely equalled save by ,heliogabalus4 ,septimius ,severus1 unable to endure the tortures he experienced in all his members1 especially in his feet1 in place of the poison that was refused him eagerly devoured a quantity of rich viands and died of indigestion4 ,gout and kindred maladies were notoriously common with both men and women1 and upon this subject ,seneca has descanted at length3 ,is it necessary to enumerate the multitude of maladies that are the punishment of our luxury8 ,the multiplicity of viands has produced a multiplicity of maladies4 ,the greatest of physicians1 the founder of medicine1 has said that women do not become bald or subject to gout4 ,now they are both bald and gouty4 ,woman has not changed since in her nature1 but in her mode of life1 and1 imitating man in his excesses1 she shares his infirmities4 ,where is the lake1 the sea1 the forest1 the spot of land that is not ransacked to gratify our palates8 ,our infirmities are the price of the pleasures to which we have abandoned ourselves beyond all measure and restraint4 ,are you astounded at the innumerable diseases8--count the number of our cooks6 ,the favourite garum of the old ,romans of itself were enough to have invited all the diseases that indigestion is heir to4 ,this was a liquid1 and was thus prepared3 ,the insides of large fish and a variety of smaller fish were placed in a vessel and well salted1 and then exposed to the sun till they became putrid4 ,in a short time a liquor was produced1 which1 being strained off1 was the garum or liquamen4 ,with the advent of ,heliogabalus upon the throne1 gluttony and extravagance reigned supreme4 ,by this youthful monarch1 during his brief reign of four years1 the tyranny of ,nero1 and ,caligula1 the lust of ,claudius and ,commodus1 the prodigality of ,vitellius1 the saturnalia and riotous living of ,verres and ,domitian were trebly exceeded4 ,entering ,rome from ,syria in a chariot drawn by naked women1 surrounded with eunuchs1 courtesans1 and buffoons1 wearing the tiara of the priests of the sun-god1 dressed as a female in stuffs of silk and gold1 and accompanied by a historiographer whose sole function it was to describe his orgies1 he at once eclipsed all his predecessors4 ,the ,sardanapalus of ,rome1 his daily feasts are said to have consisted of over twoscore courses1 and to have cost not less than ten thousand dollars each4 ,as related by ,lampridius1 his table-couches were stuffed with hares' down or partridges' feathers1 his beds adorned with coverlets of gold1 and in his kitchens none but richly chased utensils of silver were employed4 ,the invention of a new sauce was royally rewarded by him1 but if it was not relished the inventor was confined1 to partake of nothing else until he had produced another more agreeable to the imperial palate4 ,the liver of the priceless mullet seeming too paltry to ,heliogabalus1 he was served with large dishes completely filled with the gills4 ,he brought the soft roe of the rare sea-eel into disrepute by maintaining a fleet of fishing craft for their capture1 and ordering that the peasants of the ,mediterranean should be gorged with them4 ,resides countless dishes1 each of which was worth the price of a king's ransom1 he was the inventor of coloured decorations at table4 ,in the summer1 says ,lampridius1 ,heliogabalus gave feasts at which the service was composed of different colours1 constantly varied throughout the season4 ,the brains of partridges and ostriches were among his favourite dainties4 ,frequently the brains of six hundred ostriches were served at a single repast1 as well as the heads of innumerable parrots1 pheasants1 and peacocks4 ,he had cockscombs served in pts1 and was therefore the inventor of vol au vent la financire4 ,the tongues of nightingales and thrushes he had likewise served in pts1 and hearing that a strange bird1 the phnix1 existed in ,lydia1 he offered two hundred pieces of gold to him who would procure it4 ,in the course of his reign of four years he had depleted the treasury of an empire largely through gluttony1 and died1 anticipating the assassination of his soldiers1 by his own hand4 ,it were superfluous to follow the subject to the decadence of the ,empire1 when1 with wars and contentions and invasions of conquering hordes1 came the decline of cookery1 literature1 and the arts4 ,nor does history record a resumption of gastronomy until towards the ,renaissance--when ,dante and ,petrarch had touched their lyres1 and ,donatello and ,robbia wrought their bassi-rilievi2 when the ,medici and the ,este became the patrons of art2 when ,leonardo1 ,raffaello1 ,titian1 and ,guido stamped their genius upon the canvas2 when ,michelangelo created his ,david1 and ,cellini his ,perseus2 when ,giorgio fashioned his gorgeous lustres1 and ,orazio his glorious vasques4 ,or1 rather1 with the revival of cookery we find the revival of literature and the arts1 and mark the ,muses resume their sway4 ,illustration3 ,,le ,,livre ,,de ,,taillevent ,facsimile of the title-page of the edition of #aede ,illustration ,,the ,,renaissance ,,of ,,cookery ,le malheur de toutes les cuisines except de la cuisine franaise1 c'est d'avoir l'air d'une cuisine de hasard4 ,la cuisine franaise est seule raisonne1 savante1 chimique4--,,alexandre ,,dumas3 ,le ,caucase4 ,it is not unnatural that cookery as an art should finally have been resumed in the land where it had once attained its greatest development4 ,first among ,italian treatises on the subject was the volume of ,bartolomeo ,platina1 ,de ,honesta ,voluptate et ,valitudine1 which was written in ,latin and printed at ,venice in #adgd1 a year or two after the introduction of printing into that city4 ,many editions of this appeared subsequently1 as also translations in ,french and ,german4 ,other ,italian treatises of the sixteenth century were ,rosselli's ,opera ,nova chiamata ,epulario 7,venice1 #aeaf72 a work by ,christoforo di ,messisbugo1 chef to the ,cardinal of ,ferrara 7,ferrara1 #aedi72 a manual by ,bartolomeo ,scappi1 privy cook to ,pope ,pius ,v 7,venice1 #aegj72 and works by ,vincenzo ,cervio1 ,domenico ,romoli1 and ,gio4 ,battista ,rossetti--,cervio and ,romoli having been respectively carver and cook to ,cardinal ,farnese4 ,the two most important ,italian culinary publications of the seventeenth century were those of ,vittorio ,lancioletti 7,rome1 #afbg7 and ,antonio ,frugoli 7,rome1 #afcb74 ,in addition to these was the old ,roman treatise ,de re ,culinaria of ,clius ,apicius1 published in #adih1 as well as many works relating to wines and the hygiene of gastronomy4 ,glancing for a moment across the ,mediterranean1 from ,italy to ,spain1 we find record of but one ,spanish cook-book of any note during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries--that of ,ruberto de ,nola 7,toledo1 #aebe74 ,while ,spanish cookery is far from meriting a place among the fine arts1 one must yet thank ,spain for at least two things--the dulcet ,spanish onion and the poignant ,spanish omelette--as one should be grateful to ,mexico for the tamale and to ,russia for its caviare4 ,but the ,spaniard boils his partridge 7perdrix l',espagnol71 as the ,hollander boils his chicken1 with rice or vermicelli4 ,the ,spanish olla podrida--the ,alhambra of the national cuisine1 wherein garlic1 onion1 and red peppers are by no means forgotten--is well known to all travellers beyond the ,pyrenees2 but1 on account of the many native ingredients it contains1 it is difficult to be obtained in perfection outside its original country4 ,its best form is the olla en grande1 which requires two pots to brew it in--the rich olla that ,don ,quixote says is eaten only by canons and presidents of colleges4 ,with virgin oil and a pianissimo touch1 so far as the garlic is concerned1 the aristocratic guisado is both an excellent and accommodating dish1 inasmuch as a fowl1 pheasant1 rabbit1 or hare may serve as its base2 and for those who wish to try a dish with a ,spanish name1 prepared somewhat on the order of the ,french civet of hare1 the recipe may be given3 ,dress and prepare a fowl1 pheasant1 rabbit1 or hare--whichever is most easily obtainable--taking care to preserve the liver1 giblets1 and blood4 ,cut it up in pieces and dry1 without washing1 on a cloth4 ,brown a few slices of onion in a gill of boiling fat1 turn them with the pieces of meat into an earthenware pan1 add a seasoning of herbs1 garlic1 onions1 a few chillies1 salt and pepper1 put in also a few slices of bacon1 and pour over all sufficient red wine and rich stock in equal proportions to moisten4 ,place the pan over the fire and bring the liquor slowly to the boiling-point1 skim and stir frequently1 and let it simmer until the meat is quite tender4 ,about half an hour before serving1 put in the liver1 giblets1 and blood4 ,when ready1 turn the whole into a hot dish and serve quickly4 ,but ,spain for its bull-fights1 and ,france for its cuisine6 ,with the revival of cookery in ,italy1 the art gradually advanced to the home of the ,gaul1 where1 at a subsequent epoch1 it was destined to attain its highest development4 ,the early cooks of ,france were ,italians1 and the reader will recall ,montaigne's picturesque passage where the author would fain possess part of the skill which some cooks have who can so curiously season and temper strange odours with the savour and relish of their meats4 ,in this allusion special reference was made to the artist in the service of the ,king of ,tunis1 whose viands were so exquisitely farced and so sumptuously seasoned with sweet odoriferous drugs and aromaticall spices1 that it was found on his booke of accompt the dressing of one peacocke and two fesants amounted to one hundred duckets4 ,while there is a flavour of pagan ,rome in the price of these dishes1 they were still considerably less expensive than the boars stuffed with fig-peckers of ,trimalchio1 or the flamingos' brains of ,heliogabalus1 and were doubtless as well prepared2 for the author adds that after they had passed through the carver's hands their savour flooded not only the dining-chambers1 but all the rooms of the palace1 and even the streets round about it were filled with an exceeding odoriferous and aromaticall vapour which continued a long time after4 ,such an aroma1 at a later era1 the passer-by might inhale daily from the ovens of the ,rocher de ,cancale1 ,vry1 ,voisin1 ,hardy1 and ,riche4 ,these1 as well as other references1 would indicate that during the latter part of the sixteenth century cookery had already made considerable progress4 ,to be still more explicit1 it received its impetus in ,france with the advent of ,catherine de' ,medici at the court of ,francis ,i1 the youthful bride of the ,duc d',orlans bringing her cooks with her from her native country4 ,about this period the father of ,ronsard the poet was matre d'htel of the king4 ,the first physician of ,francis ,i--,johann ,gonthier of ,andernach--is also credited with having given a great stimulus to cookery1 chemistry1 and surgery4 ,the first ,french treatise on cookery1 originally written in #acge1 had appeared in the latter part of the fifteenth century4 ,this was the ,viandier of ,guillaume ,tirel1 termed ,taillevent1 premier queux of ,charles ,v--the initial volume of the ,cuisinires ,bourgeoises1 type of all the succeeding manuals of recipes4 ,at least sixteen editions of this work are known to have been published1 the first dated one being that of #aede4 ,in #acdi the author was queux de bouche of ,philippe de ,valois1 in #acfa queux of the ,duc de ,normandie1 and in #acgc he became premier queux of the king4 ,the frontispiece of one of the earlier editions depicts a personage conversing with a hunchback1 who is carrying two ducks in his left hand and a laden hamper in his right4 ,on the left1 in a dormer-window1 appears the head of a woman who is seemingly listening to the conversation4 ,with better wines than ,italy could boast1 added to a natural aptitude for cookery1 ,france soon made material strides in the art of dining1 the science continuing to improve during the reigns of ,francis ,,ii1 ,charles ,,ix1 and ,henry ,,iii4 ,the ,gaul's taste was delicate1 and his touch was true4 ,for the garlic of the ,italians he gradually substituted the onion and shallot1 or at least employed garlic more sparingly2 and in place of the heavy viands formerly in use evolved the more delicate entre1 salmis1 and entremets4 ,louis ,,xiii was accustomed not only to kill his game1 but frequently to prepare it for the table4 ,in larding a piece of meat he vied with the most skilful practitioners1 being led to do so and to put his general knowledge of cookery to account from his fear of being poisoned4 ,but his kitchen1 nevertheless1 was a parsimonious one2 and though he personally superintended all his gardening operations and prided himself on raising spring vegetables earlier in the season than any market-gardener1 he ignobly disposed of his produce to the wealthy ,seigneur de ,montauron1 whose table far outrivalled that of his royal green-grocer4 ,to ,montauron1 counsellor of the king and first president of the ,bureau of ,finance1 as well as to the ,duc de ,montausier1#h who was first to introduce large silver spoons and forks1 cookery is indebted for maintaining its prestige during the reign of the thirteenth ,louis4 ,whether at home or absent on official duties1 it was the habit of ,montauron to keep open house all the year round for princes and distinguished personages4 ,so great a benefice was it considered to secure a position among the numerous serving-men of the household that the chief steward had always a long waiting-list to draw from to supply any vacancy1 the fortunate applicant on whom his choice fell readily paying him his customary fee of ten louis d'or4 ,in his munificence and hospitality1 ,montauron anticipated ,fouquet1 but1 like the princely ,marquis de ,belle-,isle1 whose hospitality was so illy rewarded by ,louis ,,xiv1 his name remains unhonoured by an entre or a sauce4 ,richelieu1 who was a distinguished gastronome1 fared better1 and has had his memory perpetuated by many a savoury dish4 ,thus the way was paved for the notable strides under ,louis ,,xiv and ,bchamel1 ,cond and ,vatel--the ,grand ,monarque and his matre d'htel1 the great ,cond and the equally renowned ,vatel4 ,the suppers and entertainments of ,louis ,,xiv were in accord with the magnificence of his court2 the monarch who commanded ,leveau and ,mansard to render ,versailles a pleasure-house worthy of his fame1 who stocked the parks of his vast demesnes with game1 and who was a passionate lover of the chase1 being naturally exacting as to the renown of his table4 ,it was his motto--,one eats well who works well4 ,while ,lebrun and ,poussin were decorating his regal chteau1 and ,le ,ntre was embellishing its parks1 ,bchamel superintended the royal ranges and discovered new sauces1 ,la ,quintinie presiding over his vast vegetable-gardens to provide superior varieties of fruits and esculents4 ,so great was the reputation of ,la ,quintinie that he was also called upon to establish the splendid vegetable-gardens of the ,duc de ,montausier at ,rambouillet1 of ,fouquet at ,vaux1 and of ,colbert at ,sceaux4 ,saint-,simon has left a minute account of the daily life of ,louis ,,xiv1 from his ceremonious levee to his soire late in the evening4 ,it was his habit to rise at eight and partake of a simple breakfast of bread and wine mixed with water4 ,he dined alone1 at one1 at a square table in his own chamber1 where several soups1 three courses1 and a dessert were regularly served1 under the direction of his princely attendants4 ,at a quarter after ten1 supper1 his favourite meal1 was served in state in the ,salon du ,grand ,couvert1 in company with the royal family and the princes of the blood4 ,if not the most reliable1 the most graphic account of one of his suppers is that given by ,dumas in the ,vicomte de ,bragelonne1 when the formidable ,porthos was among his guests and charmed him with his marvellous appetite1 at the same time contributing his recipe for serving a sheep whole1 which elicited this encomium from his ,majesty3 ,it is impossible that a gentleman who sups so well and eats with such splendid teeth should not be the most honest man in my kingdom4 ,the rejoinder of ,porthos to a previous sally of his host is equally worthy of recording3 ,you have a lovely appetite1 ,monsieur du ,vallon1 said the king1 and you are a delightful table companion4 ,ah6 faith1 sire1 if your ,majesty ever came to ,pierrefonds we would dispose of a sheep between us1 for ,i perceive you are not lacking in appetite1 either4 ,d',artagnan touched the foot of ,porthos under the table4 ,porthos coloured4 ,at the happy age of your ,majesty1 continued ,porthos1 in order to retrieve himself1 ,i belonged to the musketeers1 and nothing could appease me4 ,your ,majesty has a superb appetite1 as ,i had the honour of observing1 but chooses with too much delicacy to be termed a great eater4 ,it will be remembered that few were as competent as ,dumas to treat of the subject of dining4 ,to quote the appreciation of a ,french writer1 ,alexandre ,dumas was a fine eater as well as a fine story-teller4 ,but the ,grand ,monarque1 after all1 was a ravenous rather than a distinguished eater4 ,as is not unfrequently the case with such persons1 he used alcoholic beverages in comparative moderation4 ,he was1 however1 fond of hippocras1 a drink composed of white or red wine1 honey1 and aromatics1 borrowed from the ancients2 and in his advanced age1 as is well known1 cordials were invented to solace his declining years4 ,champagne was his favourite wine4 ,sire1 said the president of a deputation bringing specimens of the various productions of ,rheims to the monarch when he visited the city in #afff1 we offer you our wine1 our pears1 our gingerbread1 our biscuits1 and our hearts6 ,the king proved loyal to the wine of the ,marne until ,burgundy1 largely diluted1 was prescribed by his last physician1 ,fagon1 whom ,molire satirised as ,dr4 ,purgon in ,le ,malade ,imaginaire--a physician who1 during the old age of the king1 rendered his life miserable by cutting him off one by one from his favourite dishes4 ,that he needed to be restrained1 despite his robust constitution and open-air life1 is apparent from the statement of the ,duchesse d',orlans that she had frequently seen him consume four plates of different soups1 a whole pheasant1 a partridge1 a large plate of salad1 a large portion of mutton1 two good slices of ham1 a plateful of sweetmeats1 and fruit and preserves4 ,thus1 while ,louis himself is not entitled to distinction as an epicure1 and his personal example failed to furnish inspiration for his cooks1 his table was always maintained on a scale befitting his station4 ,there were1 besides1 dainty entremets to be supplied to ,la ,vallire1 ,montespan1 ,fontanges1 and ,maintenon1 and new surprises must perforce be placed before his numerous guests of distinction4 ,among such dishes was the famous cod1 or morue la crme1 which immortalised the ,marquis de ,bchamel4 ,like ,lucullus and ,apicius1 moreover1 ,cond and ,fouquet1 with their princely revenues and luxurious tastes1 appeared to stimulate the art and further the pleasures of the table4 ,madame de ,montespan1 with her temper1 naturally proved a good cook1 and did not disdain an occasional sance with the stew-pans4 ,she is credited with having invented a sauce and encouraging every art that ministered to the service of the table1 even to expending a sum of nine thousand livres for a wine-cooler4 ,fouquet's table1 over which ,vatel presided1 and subsequently that of ,cond under the same artist1 to say nothing of the splendidly equipped establishment of ,fouquet's successor ,colbert1 were scarcely less renowned than the kitchens of ,versailles4 ,the grand fte in honour of the king given by ,fouquet1 ,marquis of ,belle-,isle1 at ,vaux1 will be remembered1 as also the jealousy of his ,majesty at the lavish hospitality of his superintendent of finance4 ,equally sumptuous were the entertainments of the ,prince de ,cond1 in whose cuisine during certain seasons there were regularly consumed as many as a hundred and fifty pheasants a week4 ,meanwhile1 ,molire and ,boileau had sung the praises of gastronomy1 but not to that degree which was to charm ,france during the consulate and the empire1 when its harp had been touched by the facile fingers of ,berchoux4 ,numerous cook-books had already appeared and exerted their influence since the ,viandier first pointed out the way4 ,he who would give a dinner la ,louis ,,xiv should consult ,les ,dlices de la ,campagne1 a volume published in #afed1 of which many editions were afterwards issued1 the author being ,nicolas de ,bonnefons1 valet de chambre of the king4 ,from this treatise one may form an idea of the variety and profusion of the dishes then in vogue1 and to what perfection and luxury the science had attained4#i ,in the previous year appeared the celebrated ,pastissier ,franois1 the ,amsterdam edition of which is among the most famous of the ,elzevirs--a copy originally priced at a few sous having been sold for ten thousand francs1 which would seem a rather exorbitant price to pay for instructions in seventeenth-century pastry-making and preparing eggs for fat and lean days4 ,the tragic death of ,vatel by his own hand1 owing to the non-arrival of the sea-fish at ,chantilly1 is too well known to need narrating4 ,vatel1 the victim of his art1 was also an author1 having contributed an illustrated treatise on carving entitled l',escuyer ,tranchant1 an accomplishment which he states could scarcely be acquired without the ministration and the precepts of the master--sans la voye et les preceptes du maistre4 ,a paragraph will serve to show the nature and scope of his contribution to culinary literature3 ,a carver should be well bred1 inasmuch as he should maintain a first rank among the servants of his master4 ,pleasing1 civil1 amiable1 and well disposed1 he should present himself at table with his sword at his side1 his mantle on his shoulder1 and his napkin on his left arm1 though some are in the habit of placing it on the guard of their sword in an unobjectionable manner4 ,he should make his obeisance when approaching the table1 proceed to carve the viands1 and divide them understandingly according to the number of the guests4 ,ordinarily he should station himself by the side of his master1 carving with knives suitable to the size of the meats4 ,a carver should be very scrupulous in his deportment1 his carriage should be grave and dignified1 his appearance cheerful1 his eye serene1 his head erect and well combed1 abstaining as much as possible from sneezing1 yawning1 or twisting his mouth1 speaking very little and directly1 without being too near or too far from the table4 ,assuredly1 one who observed such nicety in his carving must have been extremely painstaking in compounding his liaisons4 ,indeed1 the conscientiousness manifest throughout the pages of his manual easily enables one to foresee how his chagrin at the absence of the roast at two of the tables and his not having received the fish at the fte of ,cond so preyed upon his mind as to lead him1 during a moment of despair1 to fall upon his own sword4#aj ,with his sense of the proprieties so highly keyed1 one can also fancy how he must have been shocked on hearing of the prince's awkwardness at a tavern where ,cond1 after proclaiming his ability as a cook before a number of companions1 ignominiously overturned an omelette into the fire1 and was compelled to return the spider to the more skilful hands of the hostess4 ,a similar gaucherie is related of ,napoleon ,i when1 one day at the ,tuileries1 insisting on taking the place of the ,empress ,marie-,louise1 who was making an omelette herself in her own apartments1 he awkwardly flipped it on the floor1 and was obliged to confess his inaptitude and allow the empress to proceed with her cooking4 ,during the regency of ,philippe d',orlans1 attention became directed to the chemistry of cooking1 the dinners of the regent being celebrated for their combination of refinement and art--for splendidly larded viands1 matelotes of the most tempting quality1 and turkeys superbly stuffed4 ,louis ,,xv1 who was himself a practitioner of remarkable skill1 continued1 with the aid of his cooks--,moustier and ,vincent de la ,chapelle--to foster the development which his predecessors had promoted4 ,who could enumerate1 says ,mercier1 all the dishes of the new cuisine8 ,it is an absolutely new idiom4 ,i have tasted viands prepared in so many ways and fashioned with such art that ,i could not imagine what they were4 ,louis ,,xv ate astoundingly1 says ,barbier2 although his stomach was extremely elastic1 he forced it to such an extent that his indigestions were of great frequency1 and called for constant medication4 ,already at an early age he became a great drinker of champagne1 and set the mode for cold pts of larks4 ,the table was the only serious occupation of his life4 ,on hunting-days it was a frequent practice of the king to give a dinner for his courtiers at which each was called upon to prepare a dish4 ,de la ,gorse mentions a dinner given at ,st4 ,hubert where all the dishes were prepared by the ,prince de ,beaufremont1 the ,marquis de ,polignac1 and the ,ducs de ,gontaut1 d',ayen1 de ,coigny1 and de la ,vallire1 the king on his part contributing the poulets au basilic4 ,at this period there appeared1 among innumerable cook-books1 a work of four volumes entitled1 ,suppers of the ,court1 a treatise which has been pronounced one of the best and most complete of its kind4#aa ,to ,louis ,,xv belongs the invention of tables volantes1 or1 to speak more truly1 the revival of tables la ,trimalchio--like those devised during the times of the old ,romans--which descended after each course through the floor1 to appear reladen with new surprises4 ,it was to this monarch1 who insisted that women could not rise to the sublime heights of the cuisine1 that ,madame du ,barry gave the successful supper from which1 it was said1 originated the order of the cordon bleu for accomplished artisans of her sex4 ,this was the menu1 as elaborated by the best cuisinire that the reigning favourite could procure3 ,coulis de faisan1 petites croustades de foie de lottes1 salmis de bcassines1 pain de volaille la suprme1 poularde au cresson1 crevisses au vin de sauterne1 biscuits de pches au noyau1 crme de cerneaux1 and fraises au marasquin4 ,lady ,morgan asserts1 however1 that this title was first given to ,marie1 a celebrated cuisinire of the tax-gatherer who built the palace of l',elyse ,bourbon4 ,still another explanation of the term is that it originated with ,madame de ,maintenon1 who established a school at ,st4 ,cyr for the education of the orphan daughters of ennobled officers4 ,the pupils were carefully instructed in the culinary art1 and to those who excelled a blue ribbon was presented as a badge of reward4 ,again1 if we accept a reference of ,albert ,glatigny in one of his two airy poems on old ,versailles1 the term would appear to concern the ,marquise de ,montespan1 who1 as has already been stated1 was a cook of no little merit3 ,parfois le soir1 au bras d'un militaire ,vtu d'azur1 arrogant comme un paon1 ,un cordon-bleu passait avec mystre1 ,et l'on disait1 ',louis et ,montespan6' 7,sometimes at eve1 on arm of cavalier ,bedight in blue1 like some proud peacock's van1 ,a cordon-bleu pass'd by with mystic air1 ,the while one said1 ,louis and ,montespan67 ,in order to captivate the affections of her royal master more readily1 the ,duchesse de ,chteauroux secured the most versatile kitchener who was to be found2 and the wily and beautiful ,marquise de ,pompadour1 thinking that the surest way to a man's heart is through his stomach1 created filets de volaille la bellevue1 palais de buf la ,pompadour1 and tendrons d'aigneau la soleil4 ,but the ,louis were proverbially fickle--there were fillettes as well as filets2 and while these culinary novelties appealed to the jaded royal palate for the time1 they failed to retain the royal affections or wrest the monarch from his life of dissipation4 ,the refinements of the science were lost upon ,louis ,,xvi1 whose robust appetite needed only to be appeased by pieces of resistance--the art1 nevertheless1 continuing to flourish under the nobility1 the wealthy financiers1 and the ecclesiastics4 ,new discoveries continued to be made1 and the relation of cookery to man's psychical nature--the affinity of the spirit with the stomach--became more and more apparent4 ,thus it was observed by the ,marchal de ,mouchy1 who so valiantly defended the king when the palace was attacked by a mob1 that the flesh of the pigeon possesses especial sedative or consoling virtues4 ,it was accordingly his wont1 whenever he had lost a relative or a friend1 to say to his cook3 ,you will serve me with two roast pigeons for dinner2 ,i have noticed that after eating a brace of pigeons ,i arise from the table feeling much more resigned4 ,during the ,revolution1 when the court had ceased to exist and private establishments were no longer maintained1 cookery necessarily languished for a period--to blossom anew in that familiar feature of the ,french capital1 the restaurant4 ,internal dissension1 in closing the htels of the wealthy1 was thus the means of throwing numbers of master-cooks out of employment1 who subsequently turned restaurateurs1 and not a few of whom became millionaires4 ,with the restaurants1 the dealers in delicacies and provisions increased proportionately1 and dining and good living advanced apace4 ,a striking example of a gastronomer philanthropist is that of the ,vicomte de ,barras1 surnamed le beau1 who flourished during the ,directory1 and who was celebrated for his dinners1 his prodigality1 and his gallantry4 ,during his later years he continued to entertain sumptuously1 although obliged to confine himself to a single dish--a large plate of rusk moistened with the juice of an underdone leg of mutton4 ,at his banquets a lackey was always stationed back of the chair of each guest to see that he was never obliged to wait4 ,among the countless menus of his entertainments1 the following1 signed by himself and accompanied by a note in his own handwriting1 will show the excellence of his dinners and his solicitude for his guests4 ,it will be noted that1 apart from the lavish provision made for the gentler sex in the dessert1 the menu was one of quality as opposed to mere quantity3 ,carte ,dinatoire ,pour ,la ,table ,du ,citoyen ,directeur et ,gnral ,barras1 ,le ,dcadi #cj ,floral4 ,douze personnes4 #a potage4 #b plats de rt4 #a relev4 #f entremets4 #f entres4 #a salade4 #bd plats de dessert4 ,le potage aux petits oignons la ci-devant minime4 ,le relev1 un troncon d'esturgeon la broche4 ,les ,six ,entres3 #a d'un saut de filets de turbot l'homme de confiance1 ci-devant matre-d'htel4 #a d'anguilles la tartare4 #a de concombres farcis la moelle4 #a vol-au-vent de blanc de volaille la ,bchamel4 #a d'un ci-devant ,st4 ,pierre sauce aux cpres4 #a de filets de perdrix en anneaux4 ,les ,deux ,plats de ,rt3 #a de goujons du dpartement4 #a d'une carpe au court-bouillon4 ,les ,six ,entremets3 #a d'ufs la neige4 #a betteraves blanches sauts au jambon4 #a d'une gele au vin de ,madre4 #a de beignets de crme la fleur d'oranger4 #a de lentilles la ci-devant reine la crme au blond de veau4 #a de culs d'artichauts la ravigote4 #a salade cleri en rmoulade4 ,beneath the bill of fare were these remarks1 signed ,barras3 ,there is too much fish4 ,leave out the gudgeons2 the rest is all right4 ,do not forget to place cushions on the chairs of the citoyennes ,tallien1 ,talma1 ,beauharnais1 ,hainguerlot1 and ,mirande4 ,and for five o'clock precisely4 ,have the ices sent from ,veloni's2 ,i don't want any others4 ,the first restaurant is generally said to have been established in ,paris about the middle of the eighteenth century 7#agfe7 by a cook named ,boulanger1 in the rue des ,poulies1 with this device to herald its purpose3 ,venite omnes qui stomacho laboratis1 et ego restaurato vos--,come all ye that labour with the stomach1 and ,i will restore you4 ,grimod de la ,reynire1 however1 mentions a certain ,champ d',oiseau as the first of his calling1 his establishment being in the rue des ,poulies and dating from #aggj4 ,the ,marquis de ,cussy1 in turn1 who is also a good authority1 has credited the signboard of the first ,parisian restaurant to a man named ,lamy4 ,the motto and signboard were a conspicuous part of the olden tavern1 restaurant1 and inn1 as well as other shops devoted to retail trade1 and one views with regret1 both on the ,continent and in ,great ,britain1 the increasing disappearance of this picturesque feature4 ,at one time the signboard was obligatory on every landlord and vender of wines and liquors1 and scarce a century ago few public places that provided for the entertainment of man and beast were without their illuminated indices4 ,among the most common in ,france was that of ,la ,truie qui file1 or the ,spinning ,pig1 in vogue among merchants of provisions4 ,a la ,marmite de ,gargantua and ,aux ,moutons de ,panurge were favourite signs of restaurants4 ,the frequent ,lion d',or of hotels and taverns often represented a traveller asleep--au lit on dort4 ,au ,cheval blanc1 a very popular title1 was usually accompanied by the traditional phrase1 ,ici on loge pied et cheval4 ,the traveller who has visited the smaller towns of ,france and who remembers his dinners will associate many an excellent table d'hte with the shield of the white charger4 ,au bon ,coign was a sign in favour with wine-shops situated at a corner of a street1 while ,au ,saint ,jean-,baptiste was a common device of linen-merchants4 ,a wine-merchant opposite ,pre-,lachaise had these words printed on his ensign1 ,ici on est mieux qu'en face4 ,a not unfrequent ,parisian signboard was that of an ox dressed with bonnet1 veil1 and shawl1 to signify buf la mode4 ,a pastry-cook's manifesto depicted a little girl climbing up to reach some cakes in a pantry1 with the title1 ,a la petite ,gourmande4 ,a corset-maker's sign was accompanied by a large corsage1 with this explanation of its office1 ,je soutiens les faibles1 je comprime les forts1 je ramne les gars4 ,the emblem of a stocking-maker represented a grisette trying on a new pair of hose and exhibiting her nether charms to an admirer--with the motto1 ,a la belle occasion4 ,among the wittiest of old enseignes was that of a ,paris boot-maker named ,nicque1 who had for his device a splendid bouquet of flowers1 with the inscription ,aux ,amateurs de la ,botte ,nicque4 ,representations of the sun and the moon were among the oldest and most common signs both on the ,continent and in ,england1 the sixteenth-century ,french poet ,dsir ,arthus writing in his ,loyault ,consciencieuse des ,taverniers3 ,sur les chemins des grands villes et champs1 ,ne trouverez de douze maisons l'une1 ,qui n'ait enseigne d'un soleil1 d'une lune4 ,tous vendant vin1 chascun son quartier4 7,on roads that wind through town and field1 ,not one in twelve but flaunts the shield ,of sun or moon1 whose beams benign ,proclaim an inn dispensing wine47 ,early in #ahjj the rue ,vivienne was celebrated for its numerous artistic signs1 some of which were suspended from the lintels1 and others painted on the door-posts and window-frames4 ,these1 with the picturesque street-criers and the olden sun-dials1 have gradually become more and more a thing of the past in the ,french capital1 though they still add to the charm and quaintness of some of the old provincial towns1 where modern ways have been more slow to intrude4 ,how1 of a gusty day or on the rising of the wind1 the old signs creak on their rusty hinges in the dark vaulted streets1 telling of the roysterings that have been held within--of the flashing of rapiers and clash of swords1 the draining of bumpers and clink of louis d'or6 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,cries ,,of ,,paris3 ,,old ,,clothes1 ,,old ,,laces6 ,facsimile of an old ,french plate ,previous to the restaurants1 the kitchens of the inns1 which were usually poor1 and the tables d'hte of some of the hotels had meagrely provided for the wants of those who were unable to provide for themselves in houses of their own4 ,towards the end of the century the restaurant of ,beauvilliers and others were flourishing1 that of ,beauvilliers closing in #agic to be reopened with less success at the termination of the ,revolution4 ,robert1 former chef of a fermier-gnral1 the distinguished ,mot and his scholars ,vry1 ,riche1 ,hardy1 and ,roze1 were among notable masters of the time4 ,the ,manuel des ,amphitryons 7#ahjh7 pronounced ,robert the elder the greatest cook of the present age4 ,about the beginning of the century the table of the great ,cambacres was the most renowned in ,paris1 and ,m4 d',aigrefeuille was considered the most eminent epicure4 ,the ,prince de ,talleyrand was also a most distinguished amateur1 having been termed the first fork of his time4 ,at the advanced age of eighty1 it was his custom to spend nearly an hour every morning with his cook1 discussing the dishes which were to compose the dinner1 his only repast4 ,it had long been one of his tenets that a careful and healthful cuisine1 presided over by the best artist he could procure1 would tend to preserve his health and forefend serious maladies far better than a staff of physicians4 ,for a period of twelve years ,carme was his culinary director1 with carte blanche to exercise his subtlest skill4 ,two things1 ,talleyrand used to say1 are essential in life--to give good dinners and keep well with women1 a precept he always followed4 ,an axiom of diplomatists and statesmen goes still farther--that poor dinners are conducive to poor diplomacy1 and bad ministerial dinners are equivalent to bad laws and bad negotiations4 ,the first volume of the ,almanach des ,gourmands 7#ahjd7 is dedicated to ,m4 d',aigrefeuille1 whom the author adjudged most worthy of such pre-eminence--a connoisseur who is the most erudite arbiter of refined alimentary combinations1 and who understands most thoroughly the difficult and little known art of extracting the greatest possible part from an excellent repast4 ,besides referring to him as setting daily the finest table in ,paris1 he is extolled as the guest best adapted to honour an opulent table by his delightful manners1 his profound knowledge of the world1 and the constantly varied charm of his inexhaustible appetite and conversation4 ,beauvilliers1 once chef of ,monsieur1 brother of the king1 was also the author of a cook-book which achieved marked success1#ab the writer carrying out in cookery the precept that ,dlille had applied to gardening3 ,mais ce grand art exige un artiste qui pense1 ,prodigue de gnie et non pas de dpense4 7,but this grand art demands an artist of taste-- ,prodigal of genius and devoid of all waste47 ,in his fluent dedication to the ,marquis de ,voppalire1 the writer says3 ,i have not been unmindful of economy1 either in the manipulation or the preservation of foods4444 ,i have sought to teach how1 with little outlay1 one may have exquisite viands1 and at the same time derive both health and pleasure4 ,good living is at once the luxury which costs the least2 and perhaps of all pleasures it is the most innocent4444 ,you have always held1 monsieur1 that ,wisdom itself should strew flowers in the midst of the thorns that are inseparable from existence4 ,often at a banquet ,wisdom may renew its moral forces4 ,the bonds of society become narrowed1 and rivals or enemies are merged into friends or guests4 ,persons who are entire strangers to each other share in the intimacy of the family1 differences of rank become obliterated1 weakness is united to power1 manners are polished1 and the mind takes a fresh flight 7l'esprit lectris prend un nouvel essor74 ,it is perchance in the midst of banquets in the best society of ,paris and ,versailles that you have acquired that urbanity which characterises you1 that familiarity with the grand monde which is enabled to pronounce on everything at a glance4 ,every great cook should be able to say with him1 ,i have inaugurated reforms1 improvements1 in order to advance from what is good to what is better4 ,already1 l',art du ,cuisinier draws attention to the fact that new dishes1 to a large extent1 are not new dishes--a chef supplies some new decoration to a plat1 adds to or leaves off some ingredient1 and christens it with a different name4 ,the treatise of ,beauvilliers has been pronounced by authorities one of the best on the subject4 ,the style is direct1 his menu varied and yet not over-ornate1 and his formularies1 founded on long experience1 even yet denote a superior hand4 ,there can be comparatively little trouble in following many of his recipes1 they are so precise--save some of his sauces and certain grand dishes1 these calling for preparatory ,espagnoles1 velouts1 ,bchamels1 and ,allemandes1 and a larder beyond the reach of the ordinary cook4 ,there are numerous dishes1 of course1 that one may not procure at home1 however deft the presiding genius4 ,one cannot have a constant stock of elaborate preparatory sauces1 truffles1 cockscombs1 ,chablis1 or champagne to draw from for a single dish1 when desired1 without very considerable outlay or waste4 ,a grand sauce1 a salmon la ,chambord1 or an elaborate entre requires the appurtenances of a restaurant or a club where cookery is conducted on an extensive scale by a professional1 though this by no means implies that a dinner beyond criticism may not be served at one's own home4 ,early in the nineteenth century ,berchoux published his ,gastronomie1 and ,grimod de la ,reynire appeared as the versatile author of the ,almanach des ,gourmands4 ,by this time cookery was fully able to take care of itself1 irrespective of royalty or titled patrons1 and the ,almanach became its greatest oracle and promoter4 ,before referring to the ,almanach1 which claims a chapter by itself1 a word should be said of ,berchoux's poetical treatise1 the first edition of which appeared in #ahja4 ,recalling ,gentil ,bernard's l',art d',aimer in its scope and spirit1 this tribute to the tenth muse has been termed one of the most ingenious productions of light ,french poetry4 ,free from the grossness that characterises so many ,french works on the subject1 it touches lightly1 comprehensively1 and entertainingly upon the theme4 ,it was soon translated into numerous languages1 and many of its precepts have become proverbial4 ,the advice throughout is excellent1 but1 as it was observed to the author at the time1 ,you are all alike1 messieurs the poets1 you say admirable things2 but it is impossible to carry them out4 ,after passing in review the table of the ancients1 and censuring their intemperance and gluttony1 the author advises the reader who would live contentedly to choose his residence in ,auvergne or ,la ,bresse1 under whose favourable skies he may procure everything that ministers to the pleasures of the table3 ,voulez-vous russir dans l'art que je professe8 ,ayez un bon chteau dans l',auvergne ou ,la ,bresse1 ,ou prs des lieux charmants d'o ,lyon voit passer ,deux fleuves amoureux tout prts s'embrasser4 ,vous vous procurerez1 sous ce ciel favorable1 ,tout ce qui peut servir aux douceurs de la table4 ,a good cook at once becomes the great desideratum--an artist whom one may bless after having partaken of the courses he has served1 an officer who will cause one's table to be envied by all who have shared its good cheer1 a seneschal of grave mien and imposing presence1 conscientious in his work1 prolific in resources1 and proud of his art1-- 444 qui d'un air important1 ,auprs de son fourneau que la flamme illumine1 ,donne avec dignit des lois dans sa cuisine4 ,the interior of the kitchen while the dinner is being prepared is next portrayed with the skill of an ,ostade4 ,the charcoal glows1 the spits turn merrily1 the lustrous copper of the saucepans and kettles catches the ruddy light of the flames4 ,the gravies simmer1 and the fowls take on a golden hue4 ,all is excitement1 but an excitement tempered by perfect order and harmony4 ,in the midst1 surrounded by his subalterns1 to whom he issues his commands1 stands the chef--impassible1 majestic1 serene--like a general on the eve of a decisive battle3 ,tel on voit1 au moment d'une sanglante affaire1 ,un prudent gnral mesurer la carrire4 ,son courage tranquille et sa noble fiert ,commandent l'esprance et la scurit4 ,la foule l'environne et presse son armure1 ,d'un trouble involontaire il entend le murmure2 ,peut-tre un peu d'effroi s'est gliss dans son sein1 ,mais son visage est calme1 et son front serein4 ,the pictures he has drawn of the dinner and its service1 and his counsels regarding moderation and sobriety1 are equally felicitous4 ,though he himself was no ,sybarite1 but1 like ,savarin1 was only a gourmand when he had his pen in hand1 he is none the less severe on the dietarians3 ,en se privant de tout1 ils pensent se gurir1 ,et se donnent la mort par la peur de mourir4 ,nor has he failed to extol the virtues of exercise1 that most potent abettor of health and aid to enjoyment3 ,d'un noble apptit munissez-vous d'avance1 ,sans lui vous gmirez au sein de l'abondance2 ,,ii est un moyen sr d'acqurir ce tresor3 ,l'exercise1 messieurs1 et l'exercise encore3 ,allez tous les matins sur les pas de ,diane1 ,arms d'un long fusil ou d'une sarbacane1 ,epier le canard au bord de vos marais2 ,allez lancer la biche au milieu des forts2 ,poursuivez le chevreuil s'lanant dans la plaine2 ,suivez vos chiens ardents que leur courage entrane4 ,partagez sans rougir de champtres travaux1 ,et ne ddaignez pas ou la bche ou la faux4 ,it were in vain to look for a better dining-room motto than his precept3 ,rien ne doit dranger l'honnte homme qui dne2#ac or his hygienic maxim3 ,jouissez lentement1 et que rien ne vous presse4 ,like good wine1 his canto has not lost its fragrance through age1 and those who read it will almost be inclined to doubt the truth of the concluding line3 ,un pome ne valut jamais un dner-- unless it be a dner sans faon1 which he has not failed to condemn4 ,of other tributes in verse to gastronomy1 ,colnet's l',art de ,dner en ,ville#ad is the next important1 but this is by no means to be compared with the canto of ,berchoux4 ,and though the language abounds in minor poems on the subject1 few of these may be considered seriously1 while nearly all offend by their grossness or their halting measures4 ,napoleon ,bonaparte was not an epicure1 though he enjoined upon all the great functionaries of the empire to set a good table4 ,he was in constant dread of growing obese as he became old1 was proverbially irregular in his hours of eating1 and rushed his food as he would a battalion on the battle-field4 ,his repasts concerned him little so long as they were served the instant his appetite craved1 and were accompanied by his favourite ,chambertin4 ,differing from ,napoleon1 the eighteenth ,louis proved himself a fin mangeur and a worthy gastronomic successor to ,louis ,,xv4 ,it was his custom1 for instance1 to have his chops and cutlets broiled not only on the grill1 but between two other cutlets1 in order to preserve their juices4 ,his ortolans and small birds were also cooked inside of partridges stuffed with truffles1 so that he often hesitated in choosing between the delicate bird and the fragrant esculent4 ,the ortolan was termed by him la bouche du gourmand1 as it was never to be eaten in two mouthfuls4 ,he had even established a testing-jury for the fruit that was served at the royal table1 ,m4 ,petit-,radel1 librarian of the ,institute1 being the tester of peaches and nectarines4 ,one day a new variety of peach produced by a gardener of ,montreuil having matured1 the raiser was anxious to submit it to the king4 ,to do this1 however1 it was necessary to pass the ,jury dgustateur4 ,accordingly1 he presented himself at the library of the ,institute1 and1 holding in his hand a plate of four magnificent peaches1 he inquired for the librarian4 ,on being informed that he was busily engaged on some very important work1 the gardener insisted1 asking only that he be allowed to pass the plate1 the fruit1 and his arm through the door4 ,arrested by the partial opening of the door1 ,m4 ,petit-,radel raised his eyes from a ,gothic manuscript he was studying1 to discover the peaches and to exclaim twice1 with emphasis1 ,come in6 ,come in6 ,then1 explaining the object of his visit1 the gardener asked for a silver knife1 and1 quartering a peach1 offered one of the portions to the tester1 with these words3 ,taste the juice4 ,with half-shut eyes and impassible features1 ,m4 ,radel tasted the juice4 ,good1 very good1 my friend1 was his only remark1 after a minute's silence4 ,whereupon the gardener tendered him the second quarter1 saying in a more assured tone3 ,taste the flesh4 ,again the judge proceeded with his testing1 maintaining a similar silence1 until1 with an inclination of his head1 he remarked3 ,ah6 very good6 very good6 ,now savour the aroma1 said the gardener4 ,on this being found worthy of the juices and the flesh1 the gardener presented the last morsel4 ,now1 said he1 taste all6 ,then1 with eyes humid with emotion and a radiant smile upon his lips1 ,m4 ,radel advanced towards his visitor1 and1 seizing his hands with the same fervour that he would have manifested in the ease of a great artist1 he exclaimed3 ,ah1 my friend1 the peach is perfection itself6 ,you are to be profoundly complimented1 and after to-morrow your peaches will be served at the royal table4 ,and1 carefully removing its three companions from the plate1 the gardener was ushered out and the peaches placed by the side of the ,gothic manuscript4 ,during the last years of the reign of ,louis ,,xviii1 it was with regret that he perceived signs of the decadence of cookery4 ,gastronomy is passing1 were his words to ,dr4 ,corvisart1 and with it the last remains of the old civilisation4 ,it belongs to organised bodies1 such as physicians1 to direct all their energies towards preventing the disruption of society4 ,formerly ,france was filled with gastronomers because it numbered so many corporations1 the members of which have been annihilated or dispersed4 ,there are now no more farmer-generals1 no more abbs1 no more monks3 the life of gastronomy resides in physicians like you1 who are epicures by predestination4 ,it is for you to hear with still greater firmness the weight with which you are laden by destiny4 ,may you wipe out the fate of the ,spartans at the pass of ,thermopylae6 ,but the cry of the decadence of cookery is an ancient one1 and occurs periodically1 like that of the failure of vintages4 ,it has always existed1 and always will exist4 ,it is the old burden1 with ,ronsard's modification3 ,le temps s'en va1 le temps s'en va1 ma dame2 ,las6 le temps non1 mais nous nous en-allons4 7,time hast'neth on1 time hast'neth on1 my dear2 ,nay1 ,time doth stay1 and we the journeyers here47 ,age and circumstances1 surroundings and lack of hygienic observances1 may dull the susceptibility of the most appreciative palate2 the sense of taste also has its decrepitude4 ,celebrated chefs pass away1 and with them passes the celebrity of famous restaurants4 ,but other artists appear1 and fresh successes are achieved-- ,thus times do shift1 each thing his turn does hold2 ,new things succeed as former things grow old4#ae ,illustration ,,old ,,english ,,dishes ,in the olde time1 99 99 99 99 99 ,when ,beefe1 ,bread ,beere1 ,was honest mens cheere1 and welcome and spare not2 ,and ,john and his ,joane1 ,did live of their owne1 full merily1 though but all meanely4 ,,cobbes ,,prophecies1 ,,his ,,signes ,,and ,,tokens1 #afad4 ,the main attraction of the very early ,english cook-book1 it must be confessed1 is its rarity1 to which may be added its quaint title-page and foreword1 and sometimes its frontispiece and woodcuts4 ,no new salads will be discovered in its repertory to tempt the epicure1 or few dishes that will provoke his appetite4 ,the text is usually difficult to interpret1 and1 beyond singular alimentary mixtures which attest the remarkable receptive qualities of our forefathers1 it contains little to interest the average reader4 ,in this respect it differs largely from the olden works on gardening1 through whose leaves still wantons the breeze of ,june1 and chaffinch1 cushat1 and throstle sing4 ,the fact is1 it requires a master to render even a modern culinary treatise entertaining2 the majority of ancient cook-books are for the most part mere curiosities4 ,there is no ,andrew ,marvell of eating1 or ,parkinson of dining4 ,the reflection that appreciates1 applied to the science that improves1 as ,m4 de ,borose has aptly defined gastronomy1 is a comparatively recent product1 an outcome of advancement and civilising influences1 and therefore it is hardly to be looked for in primitive compilations4 ,illustration3 ,,first ,,of ,,september ,from the engraving after ,a4 ,cooper1 ,r4,a4 ,a poetical cook-book might have been composed by ,walton had he devoted as much attention to the saucepans as he did to the rod2 for the ,compleat ,angler shows him to have been fond of a good repast as it was then understood1 even to preparing the fish himself with the limited conveniences available at the ,thatched ,house4 ,as it is1 some of his numerous recipes and his allusions to barley-wine are poetical in an eminent degree1 and cause one to regret that he is not also the author of a ,compleat ,housewife4 ,no modern1 it is true1 would wish to experiment with his prescripts for cooking trout and chavender1 unless by proxy2 like most of the recipes of the olden school1 they are infinitely more amusing to read than they would prove pleasing to savour4 ,earliest of the ,english works on cookery is ,alexander ,neckam's ,de ,utensilibus1 or ,treatise on ,utensils1 written at the close of the twelfth century1 two hundred years anterior to the introduction of parsley in flavouring4 ,in this treatise1 which purports to instruct young housekeepers in maintaining a well-ordered establishment1 ,latin and ,norman ,french are the languages almost exclusively employed4 ,of other very old works may be enumerated ,the ,forme of ,cury1 with its one hundred and ninety-six recipes1 compiled by the chief cooks of ,richard ,,ii2 the ,liber ,cure ,cocorum2 the ,kalendare de ,potages dyuers and ,leche ,metys1 dating about #adcj2 ,john ,russell's ,boke of ,nurture1 composed about #adej2 ,the ,noble ,boke of ,cookry1 first printed in #aejj2 ,the ,boke of ,keruynge1 or ,book of ,carving1 a small manual printed by ,wynkyn de ,worde in #aejh2 and the ,via ,recta ad ,vitam ,longam1 or ,the ,right ,way to ,long ,life1 of ,tobias ,venner1 a physician of ,shakespeare's time4 ,over any and all of these1 some of which exist only in manuscript1 the student may burn the midnight oil2 black-letter ,chaucer being easy sailing compared with the breakers of old cookery books4 ,much of the so-called scientific cookery of early ,england was ,french1 though many of the ,french titles become strangely perverted and are frequently difficult to recognise2 as1 for instance1 let for lait1 vyaunt for viande1 fryit1 for froide1 sauke for sauce1 etc4 ,the first works that may be termed ,english date only from the latter half of the seventeenth century4 ,the ,english1 four and five hundred years ago1 had four meals daily1--breakfast at seven1 dinner at ten1 supper at four1 and livery at eight4 ,since then1 from an early hour in the morning the principal daily meal has advanced equally in ,france and ,england through every hour from ten in the forenoon until ten at night4 ,in ,france in the thirteenth century nine in the morning was the dinner-hour4 ,henry ,,vii dined at eleven4 ,in ,cromwell's time1 one o'clock had come to be the fashionable hour1 and in ,addison's day two o'clock1 which gradually became adjourned until four4 ,pope found fault with ,lady ,suffolk for dining so late as four1 saying young people might become inured to such things1 but as for himself1 if she would adopt such unreasonable practices he must absent himself from ,marble ,hill4 ,four and five continued to be the popular dining-hour among the better classes until the second decade of the century1 when dinner was further postponed1 from which period it has steadily continued to encroach upon the evening4 ,the strong stomach of the early ,briton1 fortified by abundant out-of-door exercise1 was proof against dyspepsia1 and was enabled to digest the coarsest and most strongly seasoned foods4 ,whale1 porpoise1 seal1 and grampus were common dishes4 ,besides such seasonings as ginger1 cinnamon1 galingale1 cloves1 garlic1 and vinegar1 copiously used in preparations where they would seem most incongruous1 ale was generously employed4 ,almond-milk was also a common ingredient1 while marrow was in great favour4 ,of breadstuffs the fifteenth century had an abundant variety1--pain-main1 or bread of very fine flour1 wheat-bread1 barley-meal bread1 bran-bread1 pease-bread1 oat-bread or oat-cakes1 hard-bread1 and unleavened bread4 ,the poor often used a mixture of rye1 lentils1 and oatmeal1 varied according to the season and district4 ,the author of the ,book of ,nurture describes himself as usher and marshal to ,humphrey1 ,duke of ,gloucester1 delighting in his work and desirous of training worthy successors in the mysteries of managing a well-appointed household3 ,an vsshere y ,am ye may beholde to a prynce of highe degre1 that enioyethe to informe teche alle tho that will thrive thee4 ,this exordium is followed by minute directions for carving meats1 fish1 and fowls2 rules for general behaviour2 a disquisition on wines1 meats1 soups1 and sauces2 a recipe for hippocras2 hints to the chamberlain1 butler1 taster1 dinner arranger1 etc4 ,the work is both ambitious and elaborate1 thoroughly covering the subject as it was comprehended by the writer's predecessors and his own inventive genius4 ,a passage or two from the chapters headed ,diuerce ,sawces and ,sawce for ,fische will give one an idea of the style of his treatise3 ,also to know youre sawces for flesche conveniently1 hit provokithe a fyne apetide if sawce youre meat be bie2 to the lust of youre lord look that ye haue ther redy suche sawce as hym likethe to make him glad mery4 ,mustard is meete for brawne beef or powdred motoun2 verdius to boyled capoun veel chiken or bakon2 ,and to signet swan1 convenyant is the chawdon1 ,roost beeff goos with garlek1 vinegre1 or pepur1 in conclusioun4 ,gynger sawce to lambe1 to kyd pigge1 or fawn in fere2 to feysand1 partriche1 or cony mustard with the sugure2 ,sawce gamelyn to heyron-sewe egret crane plovere2 also brewe ,curlew sugre salt with watere of the ryvere4444 ,it will be seen from this brief extract that ,russell's larder was in no wise wanting for the gustatory entertainment of his lordship1 his resources being yet more apparent in the chapter relative to the proper sauces for fish3 ,yowre sawces to make y shalle geue yow lerynge3 ,mustard is metest with alle maner salt herynge1 ,salt fysche1 salt ,congur1 samoun1 with sparlynge1 ,salt ele1 salt makerelle1 also withe merlynge4 ,vynegur is good to salt purpose torrentyne1 ,salt sturgeon1 salt swyrd-fysche savery fyne4 ,salt ,thurlepolle1 salt whale1 is good with egre wyne1 ,withe powdur put ther-on shalle cawse oon welle to dyne4 ,playce with wyne2 pike withe his reffett2 the galantyne for the lamprey where they may be gete2 verdius to roche darce breme soles molett2 ,baase1 flowndurs ,carpe ,cheven ,synamome ye ther-to sett4444 ,in like manner1 the first page or introduction to ,the ,boke of ,keruynge will present at a glance many of the forms of food that were in use at the time1 especial reference being made to the terms employed by the ,english carver4 ,the writer attacks his subject boldly--much as an old angling-master describes a trout rushing for the palmer-fly at night--and is apparently thoroughly acquainted with his important function3 ,here begynneth the boke of ,keruynge and sewynge and all the feestes in the yere1 for the seruyce of a prynce or ony other estate1 as ye shall fynde eche offyce1 the seruyce accordynge1 in this boke folowynge4 ,terms of a ,keruer ,breke that dere lesche yt brawne rere that goose lyft that swanne sauce that capo spoyle that henne frusshe that chekyn vnbrace that malarde vnlace that cony dysmember that heron dysplaye that crane dysfygure that pecocke vnioynt that bytture vntache that curlewe alaye that fesande wynge that partryche wynge that quayle mynce that plouer thye that pegyon border that pasty thye that wodcocke thye all maner of small byrdes tymbre that fyre tyere that egge chyne that samon strynge that lampraye splatte that pyke sauce that playce sauce that tenche splay that breme syde that haddocke tuske that barbell culpon that troute fynne that cheuen traussene that ele traunche that sturgyon vndertraunche yt purpos tayme that crabbe barbe that lopster ,here hendeth the goodly termes4 ,here begynneth ,butler and ,panter4 ,on the title-page of the volume is a picture of two ladies and two gentlemen at dinner1 with an attendant bringing a dish1 two servants at a side-table1 and a jester4 ,the dish was doubtless well spiced with ginger1 and washed down with malmsey1 clarrey1 or renysshe wine1 if not with ypocras or some other potent liquid accompaniment4 ,the expressions vnbrace that malarde and dysmember that heron assure one that a wild fowl1 however coriaceous1 must have quickly succumbed to the manipulation of his glittering steel4 ,in no form of carving1 whether of meats1 poultry1 or game1 does the skill of the carver appear to greater advantage than in disjointing wild fowl4 ,this indeed calls for a trenchant blade and a thoroughly competent practitioner4 ,witness the artist who follows every joint and ligament as a stream follows its varying curves1 and who lays out the rosy breast just as if it had stopped beating in its flight4 ,the ghosts of many a mallard1 broad-bill1 and teal must quake in horror when they remember the fate that awaited their earthly lot after their course had been checked by the fowler and they fell into hands unworthy to conduct their post-mortem4 ,but the duck has been avenged by an anonymous bard who has execrated the ruthless matador as he deserves3 ,we all look on with anxious eyes ,when father carves the duck1 ,and mother almost always sighs ,when father carves the duck4 ,then all of us prepare to rise ,and hold our bibs before our eyes ,and be prepared for some surprise ,when father carves the duck4 ,he braces up and grabs a fork ,whene'er he carves a duck1 ,and won't allow a soul to talk ,until he's carved the duck4 ,the fork is jabbed into the sides1 ,across the breast the knife he slides1 ,and every careful person hides ,from flying chips of duck4 ,the platter always seems to slip ,when father carves a duck1 ,and how it makes the dishes skip1 ,potatoes fly amuck-- ,the squash and cabbage leap in space1 ,we get some gravy on our face1 ,and father mutters ,hindu grace ,whene'er he carves a duck4 ,we thus have learned to walk around ,the dining-room1 and pluck ,from off the window-sills and walls ,our share of father's duck2 ,while father growls and blows and jaws1 ,and swears the knife was full of flaws1 ,and mother jaws at him because ,he couldn't carve a duck4 ,in the ,kalendare de ,potages dyuers appears this recipe for ,a goos in hogepotte3 ,take a ,goos1 make hure clene1 hacke hyre to gobettys1 put yn a potte1 ,water to1 sethe togederys2 than take ,pepir ,brennyd brede or ,blode y-boylyd1 grynd y-fere ,gyngere ,galyngale ,comyn1 temper vppe with ,ale1 and putte it ther-to2 mynce ,oynonys1 frye hem in freysshe grece1 do ther-to a porcyon of ,wyne4 ,a strange entremets was one termed ,vyolette1 accompanied by these directions3 ,take ,flourys of ,vyolet1 boyle hem1 presse hem1 bray hem smal1 temper hem vppe with ,almaunde mylke1 or gode ,cowe ,mylke1 a-lye it with ,amyndown or ,flowre of ,rys2 take ,sugre y-now1 an putte ther-to1 or hony in defaute2 coloure it with the same that the flowrys be on y'peynted a-boue4 ,that excellent dish civet of hare was termed ,harys in ,cyueye1 saffron1 ale1 and vinegar being then utilised in its preparation4 ,pain perdu figured as ,payn pur-dew1 and may have been as useful then as now for a simple dessert where a saving of time and material entered into consideration1 the olden recipe being not unlike that of modern times4 ,oysters are presented as ,oystres in cevey1 ,oystres in grauey bastard1 and ,oystres in bruette4 ,there are also ,fylettys en ,galentyne1 ,lange ,wortys de chare1 ,blamanger of ,fysshe1 ,ruschewys of ,marw1 ,pety permantes1 ,chawettys a-forsed1 ,flathonys1 and similar curious compounds4 ,meat- and fish-pies were known by the ,french appellation crustade1 the favourite ,english pork-pie being apparently unfamiliar to very olden writers1 or else so disguised as to be unrecognisable4 ,boar-pies were known1 however1 in ,elizabeth's era1 when they were esteemed a great dainty4 ,a consignment of these1 it is related1 was sent by ,sir ,robert ,sydney1 while governor of ,flushing in ,the ,hague1 to his wife as a bait to propitiate the ministers to grant him a leave of absence4 ,the pies were duly presented by ,lady ,sydney to ,lord ,essex and my ,lord ,treasurer1 and proved so excellent that the next time the petition of ,sir ,robert was presented to her ,majesty the secretary knelt down1 beseeching her to hear him in behalf of her homesick ambassador1 and to license his return for six weeks4 ,it is probable that the queen herself did not share in the presents1 inasmuch as she remained obdurate to the pleadings of the ministers and the ladies of the court4 ,under the rule of ,elizabeth1 fish formed an important article of diet1 statute laws being established for their consumption1 with heavy penalties to the offender--a measure adopted for the better maintenance of shipping interests and the lesser consumption of flesh food4 ,besides the usual ,lenten obligations to ,neptune1 ,friday and ,saturday of each week were additionally set apart for fish days1 an alimentary compulsion which soon became extremely distasteful4 ,numerous bills of fare of banquets are given in the ,kalendare1 including that of the coronation of ,henry ,,iv and the banquet of his second marriage in #adjd4 ,it would appear that the ecclesiasts were among the most princely entertainers1 as evidenced by the bills of fare of the feast of ,richard ,fleming1 ,bishop of ,lincoln2 a dinner given by ,john ,chandler1 ,bishop of ,salisbury2 an entertainment held in #adbd on the occasion of the funeral of ,nicholas ,budwith1 ,bishop of ,bath and ,wells2 and several others4 ,in point of variety these feasts might rank with those of ancient ,rome4 ,venison1 boar's head1 veal1 oxen1 and various pieces of roast figure in the courses4 ,among the birds and wild fowl were capons1 herons1 cranes1 peacocks1 swans1 pheasants1 and wild geese1 together with innumerable smaller kinds1 such as plover1 fieldfares1 partridges1 quail1 snipe1 teal1 curlew1 woodcock1 and larks4 ,but the elaborate banquet where as many as a hundred and four peacocks dressed in their plumage were included among the subtleties was by no means a common occurrence1 and the accounts of these entertainments1 together with the lavish festivities of ,christmas1 should not be accepted as a criterion of the usual mode of ,english living among the wealthy4 ,the division line between the rich and the poor1 besides1 was far more marked than at present1 and it is questionable whether even the higher classes1 despite their occasional excessive prodigality1 maintained the same luxurious state of service the year round as their modern successors4 ,the many carols on the boar's head and on ale which have come down to us from old ,,mss4 show in what request the one stood as a viand and the other as a beverage4 ,at certain seasons it was the habitual custom to serve a particular dish first1 as a boar's head at ,christmas1-- ,furst set forthe mustard brawne of boore1 the wild swyne1-- a goose at ,michaelmas1 and a gammon of bacon at ,easter4 ,the boar's head was set upon its neck upon the platter1 with an apple or a lemon in its mouth and sprigs of rosemary in its ears and nose1 the platter being additionally decorated with garlands4 ,thus garnished and heralded by trumpets1 it was borne to the king's table on a salver of gold or silver by the server1 followed by a procession of nobles1 knights1 and ladies4 ,in ,scotland it was sometimes brought to table surrounded by banners displaying the colours and achievements of the baron at whose board it was served4 ,from time immemorial the double loin or baron of beef has been a royal dish1 and one especially selected is always sent from ,windsor to ,osborne to appear at the dinner-table1 accompanied by that other ,christmas dish1 the boar's head1 sent of late from ,germany4 ,the oldest carol on the boar's head is probably that of the ,balliol ,,ms41 of which there are numerous versions3 ,caput ,apri ,refero ,resonens laudes domino4 ,the boris hed ,in hondis ,i brynge with garlondis gay byrdis syngynge3 ,i pray you all helpe me to synge1 ,qui estis in convinio4 ,the boris hede1 ,i understonde1 ys cheffe seruyce in all this londe3 wher-so-ever it may be fonde1 ,scruitur cum sinapio4 ,the boris hede1 ,i dare well say1 anon after the xijth day he taketh his leve and goth a-way4 ,exiuit tunc de patria4 ,an olden ,christmas feast wherein the wild boar forms the pice de rsistance is also figured in ,king's ,art of ,cookery1 the only ,english work except ,the ,philosopher's ,banquet1 by ,w4 ,b41 that has discoursed on gastronomy to any considerable extent in verse3 ,at ,christmas time be careful of your fame2 ,see the old tenant's table be the same4 ,then if you would send up the brawner's head1 ,sweet rosemary and bays around it spread6 ,his foaming tusks let some large pippin grace1 ,or midst those thund'ring spears an orange place1 ,sauce like himself1 offensive to its foes1 ,the roguish mustard1 dang'rous to the nose4 ,sack and the well spiced ,hippocras the wine1 ,wassail the bowl with ancient ribbands fine1 ,porridge with plumbs1 and turkeys with the chine4 ,the seventeenth century was prolific of cook-books1 most of which continued to republish the ancient recipes1 with but slight augmentations or changes4 ,many of the old-fashioned dishes still appear in ,the ,art of ,cookery ,refined and ,augmented1 a treatise published in #afed by ,joseph ,cooper1 former kitchener of ,charles ,i4 ,these indigestibilities abound in ,the ,english ,housewife of ,gervaise ,markham1 an early production of the century1 which reached its eighth edition in #afge1 much augmented1 purged1 and made most profitable and necessary for all men1 and the general good of this ,nation4#af ,it may be assumed that ,markham's recipes were not original with him1 but were compiled mostly from anterior works2 we have no knowledge of his having been a practical cook4 ,for that matter1 he states in his dedication to the ,countess ,dowager of ,exeter that he does not assume to himself the full invention and scope of the work1 for it is true that much of it was a manuscript which many years agone belonged to an ,honourable ,countess1 one of the greatest ,glories of our ,kingdom4 ,the material1 therefore1 is due mainly to a member of the gentler sex1 while ,markham is responsible for the liaison4 ,a voluminous author1 he did not hesitate to appropriate whatever material he could find on any topic1 more especially on husbandry and angling1 and send it out as his own4 ,it is well known1 for example1 that his ,art of ,fishing in his ,country ,contentments is only a prose rendition of ,dennys' attractive poem ,the ,secrets of ,angling4 ,he has been spoken of as the first hack writer of ,england1 all subjects seeming to have been alike to him4 ,so that ,the ,english ,housewife1 which also includes much interesting information on physics1 the dairy1 etc41 may be regarded as virtually a work of the ,elizabethan period4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,english ,,housewife ,facsimile of title-page ,in ,markham's treatise there is a sauce for green-geese and one for stubble-geese1 a sauce for pigeons and stock-doves1 a gallantine for bitterns1 bustards1 and herns4 ,a quelquechose was a fricassee or a mixture of many ingredients1 and meats broiled upon the coals were termed carbonadoes4 ,verjuice was made from crab-apples1 to which damask-rose leaves were added previous to fermentation4 ,vinegar was frequently made from ale placed in the sun to sour1 and flavoured with leaves of damask roses4 ,a recipe for hippocras is naturally given1 together with directions for the manufacture of all manner of wines and beverages4 ,puddings1 pies1 and tarts were still more familiar then than now4 ,of pies there was an infinite assortment--from ,olave1 marrow-bone1 hare1 chicken1 bacon1 herring1 ling1 and calves'-foot to oyster1 chewet1 ,warden1 pippin1 ,codlin1 and minc'd4 ,markham's recipe for ,a ,herring ,pye will serve as well as any to illustrate the character of the amalgams that passed under the names of pies1 puddings1 and tarts3 ,a ,herring ,pye3--,take white pickled ,herrings of one night's watering1 and boyl them a little1 then take off the skin1 and take only the backs of them1 and pick the fish clean from the bones2 then take good store of ,raisins of the sun1 and stone them2 and put them to the ,fish2 then take a ,warden or two1 and pare it1 and slice it in small slices from the core1 and put it likewise to the fish2 then with a very sharp shredding ,knife shred all as small and fine as may be3 then put to it good store of ,currants1 ,sugar1 ,cinnamon1 slic't ,dates1 and so put it into the coffin1 with good store of sweet ,butter1 and so cover it1 and leave onely a round vent-hole on the top of the lid1 and so bake it like ,pies of that nature4 ,when it is sufficiently bak't1 draw it out1 and take ,claret ,wine1 and a little ,verjuyce1 ,sugar1 ,cinnamon1 and sweet ,butter1 and boyl them together3 then put it in at the vent-hole1 and shake the ,pye a little1 and put it again into the ,oven for a little space1 and so serve it up1 the lid being candied over with ,sugar1 and the sides of the dish trimmed with ,sugar4 ,but many recipes are given in the cook-books1 both in the old and the new1 which the wise reader will avoid1 and perchance ,markham's herring-pie was among the number4 ,it were pleasanter1 at any rate1 to take ,john ,fletcher's prescription for some contemporaneous dishes1 where1 after he would have the pig turn merrily1 merrily1 ah6 and let the fat goose swim1 he exclaims3 ,the stewed cock shall crow1 cock-a-loodle loo1 ,a loud cock-a-loodle shall he crow2 ,the duck and the drake shall swim in a lake ,of onions and claret below4 ,the wines and beverages of old corresponded to many of the dishes themselves2 which of these was most productive of indigestion it were difficult to state4 ,hippocras1 so generously indulged in1 not to mention posset1 mead1 metheglin1 and perry1 must have been a potent factor in fomenting the uric-acid diathesis4 ,when to these common beverages are added the fiery1 heavy1 sweet1 and mixed wines that were in general use1 it is scarcely surprising that the seeds of gout were sown broadcast1 and that the indiscretions of the fathers were visited upon the children unto the existing generation4 ,even ,milton did not escape1 while ,spenser1 ,sir ,william ,temple1 and a host of worthies who were supposed to be abstemious in their diet were victims to arthritic complaints4 ,how ,shakespeare eluded the malady seems a miracle1 in view of the existing viands and beverages and the necessary lack of exercise attendant on his literary pursuits4 ,alexander ,neckham1 in his twelfth-century treatise1 mentions clar and nectar as proper to be found in the cellar or in the storehouse4 ,clar was a mixture of clear red wine1 the best of which came from ,guyenne1 with honey1 sugar1 and spices1 as distinguished from piment or nectar1 a similar compound1 but with more substance1 founded on the red wine of ,burgundy1 ,dauphin1 etc4 ,in ancient days the taste was for strong1 sharp1 and full-flavoured wines4 ,bordeaux1 or claret1 as it is now made was unknown4 ,vitification and vinification were then undeveloped compared with the present time4 ,in place of the existing delicate growths of the ,mdoc were the fiery wines of ,guyenne and ,gascony and the heavy products of ,provence and ,languedoc4 ,it is to be supposed1 likewise1 that the ,rhenish wines at that time were totally different from those of the ,rheingau and the ,bavarian ,palatinate now4 ,but the kinds mostly in vogue were sack and malmsey1 muscadel and canary1 and bastard or malaga1 port as yet not having been introduced into ,england4 ,the punch-bowl or wassail-bowl1 the goddard1 caudle-cup and posset-pot1 were all in use in ,england in olden days--punch1 or pauch1 however1 being a drink of ,indian origin1 the word meaning five1 and so named from its five ingredients3 arrack1 tea1 sugar1 lemon-juice1 and water4 ,grog is an ,english beverage of later introduction4 ,admiral ,vernon1 in #agde1 having put an end to the use by the ,english navy of ale1 substituted for it rum diluted with water4 ,the admiral was dubbed by the sailors ,old ,grog1 because of an old cloak of grogram which he always wore in foul weather1 and hence it came naturally about that the new potation of the high seas acquired its present name4 ,mead1 the favourite tipple of ,queen ,bess1 was made by boiling honey and water together1 with quantities of spices1 herbs1 and lemons2 when it had stood for three months1 the liquor was bottled and was ready to drink six weeks afterwards4 ,butler1 in ,the ,feminine ,monarchy1 or ,history of ,bees1 draws a distinction between mead and metheglin1 making hydromel the generic term4 ,in the old cookery books and ,housewives we find directions how to make strong ,mead and small ,white ,mead4 ,artificial ,frontignac wine was made by boiling water1 sugar1 and raisins together1 adding elder-flowers1 syrup of lemons1 and ale yeast4 ,english ,champagne was composed of water1 sugar1 and currants boiled1 with the addition of balm2 and1 when bottled1 a small lump of double-refined sugar was used to impart effervescence4 ,in a somewhat similar manner numerous other forms of wine were compounded1 as ,saragossa or ,english ,sack1 ,quince1 ,mountain1 ,plum1 ,birch1 and ,sage4 ,perhaps the most bizarre of all ancient concoctions is one termed ,cock ,ale1 for which this recipe is presented in ,e4 ,smith's ,compleat ,housewife 7#agcf73 ,to make ,cock ,ale3--,take ten gallons of ale1 and a large cock1 the older the better1 parboil the cock1 flea him1 and stamp him in a stone mortar till his bones are broken1 7you must craw and gut him when you flea him71 put the cock into two quarts of sack1 and put to it three pounds of raisins of the sun stoned1 some blades of mace1 and a few cloves2 put all these into a canvas bag1 and a little before you find the ale has done working1 put the ale and bag together into a vessel2 in a week or nine days' time bottle it up1 fill the bottles but just above the necks1 and leave the same time to ripen as other ale4 ,a notable advance in the art was accomplished during the latter part of the reign of ,charles ,,ii1 who was somewhat of a cook as well as an epicure4 ,the sirloin of beef is said to owe its name to this monarch1 who1 dining upon a loin of beef with which he was particularly pleased1 inquired the name of the joint1 saying its merit was so great that it deserved to be knighted1 and that thenceforth it should be called ,sir-,loin4 ,the ,parisian school soon became fashionable1 and numerous works on cookery made their appearance4 ,but1 like the fifteenth ,louis when intent upon his pleasures at the ,parc aux ,cerfs1 the second ,charles1 amid his dissolute court and its frail beauties whom ,sir ,peter ,lely has drawn for us1 had other matters to engage his serious attention than presiding at the range or posing as a patron of culinary authors4 ,pies1 tarts1 and pasties now met with increased favour1 and ,the ,accomplisht ,cook1 or ,the ,art and ,mystery of ,cookery of ,robert ,may1 the first edition of which appeared in #affe1 became the oracle of feasting and dining4 ,god and his own conscience1 the author states1 would not permit him to bury his experiences with his silver hairs in the grave4 ,from ,pepys' ,diary one may obtain much information regarding the mode of living at the time4 ,that the ,english appetite had suffered no decline is apparent from nearly any one of his entries relating to the subject4 ,john and ,joan may have continued to live meanely1 but such can scarcely be said of the better classes4 ,thus1 under date of ,january #bf1 #afei1 ,pepys speaks of coming home from his office to my lord's lodgings1 where his wife had got ready a very fine dinner1 viz43 a dish of marrow-bones1 a leg of mutton1 a loin of veal1 a dish of fowl1 three pullets1 and a dozen of larks all in a dish2 a great tart1 a neat's-tongue1 a dish of anchovies1 a dish of prawns1 and cheese4 ,on ,march #bf1 #affj1 having guests to dine with him1 he says3 ,i had a pretty dinner for them1 viz43 a brace of stewed carps1 six roasted chickens1 and a jowle of salmon hot for the first course3 a tansy1 a kind of sweet dish made of eggs1 cream1 etc41 flavoured with the juice of tansy2 and two neat's-tongues and cheese1 the second4 ,we had a man cook to dress dinner to-day4 ,merry all the afternoon1 talking1 singing1 and piping on the flageolet4 ,on another occasion1 ,april #d1 #affb1 he states that he was very merry before and after dinner1 and the more for that my dinner was great1 and most neatly dressed by our own only mayde4 ,we had a fricassee of rabbits and chickens1 a leg of mutton boiled1 three carps in a dish1 a great dish of a side of lamb1 a dish of roasted pigeons1 a dish of four lobsters1 three tarts1 a lamprey-pie1 a most rare pie1 a dish of anchovies1 good wine of several sorts1 and all things mighty noble1 and to my great content4 ,another of his dinners consisted of a ham of ,french bacon boiled with pigeons1 and a roasted swan1 both excellent dishes4 ,dining at ,sir ,william ,penn's on his wedding anniversary1 he mentions1 besides a good chine of beef and other good cheer1 eighteen mince-pies in a dish--the number of years his host had been married4 ,again1 he speaks of drinking great quantities of claret1 and of eating botargo1 a sausage made of eggs and the blood of a sea-mullet1 with bread and butter2 as also of dining on a haunch of venison powdered and boiled1 and a powdered leg of pork2 also a fine salmon-pie4 ,it will be noted how meat1 game1 and fish-pies prevail1 with tarts1 marrow-bones1 and neat's-tongues as secondary dishes4 ,the roast swan1 if a cygnet1 may have been rather appetising1 but one would feel more secure to leave the lamprey-pie untasted1 and allow the botargo to be passed on to a neighbour4 ,the salmon-pie1 likewise1 has an indigestible sound1 especially as there are no signs of any ,chablis or hock to serve as an antidote4 ,of course1 the virtues of the carp would depend entirely on the sauce1 and carp sauces of those days must have been anything but assuring4 ,the ,diary of ,mr4 ,pepys says nothing of the mornings after his dinners--the true test of a generous repast4 ,it is just as well1 therefore1 for the reader who has the welfare of his stomach to consider1 not to dream of having dined with ,pepys or his friends1 or to attempt to vie with him in claret and good cheer4 ,far more simple1 though by no means meagre1 was the diet of the rural population4 ,in place of lobsters and fricassees with sack and muscadel1 bread1 the roast of beef1 mutton1 and veal1 and sound home-brewed ale went to the making of strength and endurance4 ,in the country1 the hay-harvest1 sheep-shearing1 and the wheat-harvest were always occasions for special festivity1 where master and men jointly celebrated the fruits of their toil in the fields4 ,of all such celebrations the ,hock-,cart or ,harvest-,home1 when the last sheaf of wheat had been garnered1 was the most prolific of feasting and merrymaking--a festival which is well described by ,herrick1 with its attendant bill of fare3 ,come1 sons of summer1 by whose toil1 ,we are the lords of wine and oil2 ,by whose tough labours and rough hands1 ,we rip up first1 then reap our lands4 ,crowned with the ears of corn1 now come1 ,and to the pipe sing harvest home4 ,come forth1 my lord1 and see the cart ,dressed up with all the country art4444 ,well on1 brave boys1 to your lord's hearth1 ,glitt'ring with fire1 where1 for your mirth1 ,ye shall see first the large and chief ,foundation of your feast1 fat beef2 ,with upper stories1 mutton1 veal1 ,and bacon which makes full the meal1 ,with several dishes standing by1 ,as here a custard1 there a pie1 ,and here all-tempting frumenty4 ,and for to make the merry cheer1 ,if smirking wine be wanting here1 ,there's that which drowns all care1 stout beer1 ,which freely drink to your lord's health1 ,then to the plough 7the commonwealth71 ,next to your flails1 your fans1 your vats2 ,then to the maids with wheaten hats2 ,to the rough sickle1 and the crook'd scythe1 ,drink1 frolic boys1 till all be blythe4444 ,the era of ,queen ,anne1 a noted gourmande1 who achieved the feminine distinction of acquiring the gout1 was marked by the appearance of a work on ,royal ,cookery1 or the ,complete ,court ,book 7#agaj71 by ,patrick ,lamb1 ,esq41 chef to her ,majesty1 who had previously served ,charles ,,ii1 ,james ,,ii1 and ,william and ,mary4 ,pope's description in the ,dunciad would indicate that cookery was in a flourishing state under the last of the ,stuarts3 ,on some a priest succinct in amice white ,attends2 all flesh is nothing in his sight6 ,beeves1 at his touch1 at once to jelly turn1 ,and the huge boar is shrunk into an urn2 ,the board with specious miracles he loads1 ,turns hares to larks1 and pigeons into toads4 ,another 7for in all what one can shine87 ,explains the sve and verdeur of the wine4 ,in #agcj appeared ,the ,compleat ,practical ,cook1 or ,a new ,system of the whole ,art and ,mystery of ,cooking1 a work with sixty curious copperplates of courses1 written by ,charles ,carter1 cook to the ,duke of ,argyll1 the ,earl of ,pontefract1 and ,lord ,cornwallis4 ,in the preface to his ,city and ,country ,cook the author says3 ,what ,i have published is almost the only book1 one or two excepted1 which of late years has come into the world1 that has been the result of the author's own practice and experience2 for though very few eminent practical ,cooks have ever cared to publish what they knew of the art1 yet they have been prevailed on1 for a small premium from a ,bookseller1 to lend their names to performances in this art1 unworthy their owning4 ,the titles of many of the early cook-books are not wanting in quaintness or directness1 as the case may be1 however devoid of practical worth their contents4 ,thus we find the following among a host of other ,english works relating to the subject3 ,the ,good ,husive's ,handmaid1 #aeej4 ,the ,householder's ,philosophie1 #aehh4 ,the ,good ,housewife's ,closet of ,provision1 #aehi4 ,butte's ,dyets ,dry ,dinner1 #aeii4 ,dawson's ,good ,huswife's ,jewel and rare ,conceits in ,cookry1 #afaj4 ,the ,book of ,carving and ,serving1 #afac4 ,a ,closet of ,delights for ,ladies1 #afcj4 ,a ,closet for ,ladies and ,gentlewomen1 #afcj4 ,murrell's ,cookerie and ,manner of making ,kickshawes1 etc41 #afcj4 ,the ,philosopher's ,banquet1 #afcc4 ,the ,schoolmaster1 or ,teacher of ,table ,philosophy1 #afeb4 ,the ,ladies' ,companion1 #afec4 ,the ,treasury of ,commodious ,conceits and ,hidden ,secrets1 #afec4 ,the ,ladies' ,cabinet ,opened1 #afee4 ,nature unembowelled1 or #agbj ,receipts1 #afee4 ,the ,true ,gentlewoman's ,delight1 #afga4 ,the ,gentlewoman's ,cabinet ,unlocked1 #afge4 ,the ,queen-,like ,closet1 or ,rich ,cabinet1 #afge4 ,the ,school of ,grace1 or ,a ,book of ,nurture1 #afhj4 ,rose's ,school for the ,officers of the ,mouth1 #afhb4 ,the ,queen's ,closet ,opened1 #afhc4 ,hannah ,wooley's ,rare ,receipts1 #afhd4 ,the ,accomplisht ,ladies' ,delight1 #afhf4 ,the ,kitchen ,physician1 #afhh4 ,the ,cupboard ,door ,opened1 #afhi4 ,the ,queen's ,cookery1 #agji4 ,incomperable ,secrets in ,cookery1 #agaj4 ,cookery and ,pastry ,cards1 #agbj4 ,the ,young ,lady's ,companion1 #agcd4 ,e4 ,smith's ,compleat ,housewife1 #agcf4 ,the ,family ,piece1 #agda4 ,adam's ,luxury and ,eve's ,cookery1 #agdd4 ,sarah ,jackson's ,cook ,director1 #agee4 ,the ,cook's ,cookery1 and ,comments on ,mrs4 ,glasse1 #ageh4 ,mary ,smith's ,compleat ,housekeeper1 #aggb4 ,sarah ,harrison's ,housekeeper's ,pocket-,book1 #aggg4 ,mrs4 ,fisher's ,prudent ,housewife1 #aghh4 ,dr4 ,stark's ,dietetical ,experiments1 #aghh4 ,mrs4 ,carter's ,frugal ,housewife1 #ahaj4 ,mrs4 ,powel's ,art of ,cookery1 #ahaa4 ,mrs4 ,price's ,new ,book of ,cookery1 #ahac4 ,the ,school of ,good ,living1 #ahad4 ,young's ,epicure1 #ahae4 ,haslehurst's ,family ,friend1 #ahaf4 ,chamber's ,ladies' ,best ,companion1 #ahbj4 ,here are manuals enough1 in all conscience1 to have produced a progressive cuisine1 were not the majority a repetition of the crudities and barbarisms of their antecedents1 where one heresy was passed on to be augmented by another author1 and by him transmitted to his successors4 ,essentially differing from ,france1 ,england was unblessed with originality1 and not until the influence of the splendid restaurants of the ,parisian capital had extended across the ,channel did the ,briton awaken from his lethargy and cease to see through ,mrs4 ,glasse and ,mrs4 ,smith darkly4 ,then ,ude and ,kitchener1 ,francatelli1 ,walker1 and ,soyer appeared1 to pave the way for a better condition of cookery in the kingdom4 ,that the works referred to1 where one has the facilities of consulting them and the patience to peruse them1 are not entirely lacking in wit will be obvious if only from the repetition--in her ,compleat ,housewife1 by ,mrs4 ,smith1 who professes to serve the publick in what she may--of ,ray's proverb1 ,god sends meat and the devil sends cooks1 as well as from her namesake's rendition in the ,compleat ,housekeeper of sauce ,robert as ,roe-,boat sauce1 omelette as ,hamlet1 and soupe la reine as ,soup a la ,rain4 ,neither should a really witty quatrain from ,the ,philosopher's ,banquet1 whose aroma almost suggests the spikenards1 musks1 and galbanums of the ,hesperides1 be allowed to pass unnoticed3 ,if ,leekes you like1 but do their smelle dis-leeke1 ,eat ,onyons1 and you shall not smelle the ,leeke2 ,if you of ,onyons would the scente expelle1 ,eat ,garlicke1 that shall drowne the ,onyons' smelle4 ,it has been said of garlic that every one knows its odour save he who has eaten it1 and who wonders why every one flies at his approach4 ,but the onion tribe is prophylactic and highly invigorating1 and even more necessary to cookery than parsley itself4 ,what were a salad without the onion1 whey-cheese without chives1 a bouillabaisse1 or a brandade of cod without garlic1 certain soups and ragots without leeks1 and a bordelaise sauce without shallots6 ,and if every one eat them1 how shall they offend8 ,all ,italy is in the fine1 penetrating smell2 and all ,provence2 and all ,spain4 ,an onion-or garlic-scented atmosphere hovers alike over the narrow calli of ,venice1 the cool courts of ,cordova1 and the thronged amphitheatre of ,arles4 ,it is only the atmosphere breathed by the ,latin peoples of the ,south1 so that ever must it suggest blue skies and endless sunshine1 cypress groves1 and olive orchards4 ,for the traveller it is interwoven with memories of the golden canvases of ,titian1 the song of ,dante1 the music of ,mascagni4#ag ,in like manner1 the wild leek that strews the woodland carpet with its cool1 fresh greens and pale1 nodding flowers is associated with one's first spring rambles1 while yet the snowbanks linger amid the sheltered hollows and the summons of the first flicker resounds through the awakening groves4 ,decidedly1 life were devoid of a great portion of its fragrance if deprived of the resources of the ,allium4 ,it is the salt of flavourings1 and its rich pungency belongs to it alone4 ,most famous among culinary treatises of the eighteenth century is that of ,mrs4 ,glasse1 first printed in #agdg1 and republished as late as #ahjc4ah ,for a long period this was the vade mecum of the kitchen1 and was fondled as fervently by housewives as was ever ,addison by the literarian1 or ,herbert by the pietist4 ,from the original thin folio it gradually broadened through numerous editions into a thick octavo4 ,the authorship of the work is in doubt1 it having been variously attributed to ,dr4 ,hill and ,dr4 ,hunter1 ,london physicians1 and ,mrs4 ,hannah ,glasse of ,southampton ,row1 ,bloomsbury1 habit-maker to the royal family4 ,careful perusal1 nevertheless1 would indicate a feminine instead of a masculine hand4 ,the first edition of #agdg is said to be almost as rare as the first folio of ,shakespeare1 being quoted1 in the original sheep binding with rough leaves in a red morocco case1 as high as #ca #ajs4 in a recent catalogue of a ,london bookseller4 ,it is stated in the preface that the work has not been written in the high-polite style1 and that the ends the manual was intended for were to improve the servants and save the ladies a great deal of trouble4 ,the book owes its reputation1 no doubt1 more to the remark erroneously credited to the author--,first catch your hare--than to any other cause4 ,certainly its recipes have little to recommend it4 ,mace1 cloves1 nutmeg1 and similar spices--ingredients that require the nicest discrimination in their employment--are still prescribed in cyclopean quantities1 and under her rgime cookery continued to remain much in the condition described by ,goldsmith3 ,for palates grown callous almost to disease1 ,who peppers the highest is surest to please4 ,many of the old dishes1 with others slightly modified1 find place in her pages1 together with new dishes of singular titles3 as1 for instance1 ,bombarded ,veal1 ,how to fricassee ,skirrets1 to prepare an ,oxford ,john1 to make a ,cheese-,curd ,florendine1 to stew ,beef ,gobbets1 to make a ,pellaw the ,indian way1 to make a ,frangas ,incopades1 to ,french a ,hind-,saddle of ,mutton1 to make a ,hedge-,hog1 and an ,hottentot ,pie1 to make an excellent ,sack-,posset1 etc4 ,but the recipes will speak best for themselves1 like the following for making ,a ,good ,brown ,gravy3 ,take a half a pint of small beer1 or ale that is not bitter1 and half a pint of water1 an onion cut small1 a little bit of lemon-peel cut small1 three cloves1 a blade of mace1 some whole pepper1 a spoonful of walnut pickle1 a spoonful of catchup1 and an anchovy2 first put a piece of butter into a saucepan1 as big as a hen's egg1 when it is melted shake in a little flour1 and let it be a little brown2 then by degrees stir in the above ingredients1 and let it boil a quarter of an hour1 then strain it1 and it is fit for fish or roots4 ,the directions for ,a ,liver-,pudding boiled call for additional skill and thorough familiarity with the art of the charcutier3 ,get the liver of the sheep1 when you kill one1 and cut it as thin as you can1 and chop it2 mix it with as much suet shred fine1 half as many crumbs of bread or biscuit grated1 season it with some sweet herbs shred fine1 a little nutmeg grated1 a little beaten pepper1 and an anchovy shred fine2 mix all together with a little salt1 or the anchovy liquor1 with a piece of butter1 fill the crust and close it2 boil three hours4 ,in ,mrs4 ,smith's ,compleat ,housewife 7#agcf7 we find these instructions1 entitled ,to ,collar ,a ,pig3 ,cut off the head of your pig2 then cut the body asunder2 bone it1 and cut two collars off each side4444 ,in ,mrs4 ,glasse's injunctions for roasting a pig1 the author is yet more colourful3 ,stick your pig just above the breast-bone1 and run your knife to the heart4444 ,it will be immediately evident that injustice has been done to this noble and worthy companion of man--that of confounding him with the hare1 whose only practical use is in a civet or a pie1 and in furnishing amusement in coursing4 ,for neither in ,the ,art of ,cookery nor in her ,compleat ,confectioner does ,mrs4 ,glasse utter the axiom1 ,first catch your hare1 but1 as we have seen1 ,first stick your pig6 ,it was ,beauvilliers who said1 in presenting his recipe for hare-pie3 ,ayez un livre4 ,among the dishes presented in ,the ,art of ,cookery which will be appreciated by the feminine reader is one termed ,a ,bride's ,pie1 which no doubt was considered fully worthy the appellation of an old culinary writer--a darling dainty3 ,boil two calves' feet1 pick the meat from the bones1 and chop it very fine1 shred small one pound of beef suet1 and a pound of apples1 wash and pick one pound of currants very small1 dry them before the fire1 stone and chop a quarter of a pound of jar raisins1 a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon1 the same of mace and nutmeg1 two ounces of candied citron1 two ounces of candied lemon cut thin1 a glass of brandy and one of ,champagne1 put them in a china dish with a rich puff paste over it1 roll another lid and cut it in leaves1 flowers1 figures1 and put a glass ring in it4 ,it may have been some of ,mrs4 ,glasse's compounds that prompted ,johnson's remark1 ,women can spin very well1 but they cannot make a good book of cookery4 ,many other works during the eighteenth century succeeded ,the ,art of ,cookery1 though none achieved its marked popularity4 ,sufficient has been said of ancient ,english manuals1 however1 to present some idea of their quality and enable the reader to judge of the culinary science as it was understood by former generations4 ,far more slow to develop than in ,france1 ,english cookery has still much to attain among both the middle and well-to-do classes1 and even in the case of most of the restaurants and hotels2 the era has not yet dawned in ,great ,britain when1 on arising from the dinner-table1 one may truly exclaim3 ,fate cannot harm me1 ,i have dined to-day6 ,illustration ,illustration ,l',,almanach ,,des ,,gourmands#ai ,tout s'arrange en dinant dans le sicle o nous sommes1 ,et c'est par des dners qu'on gouverne les hommes4 ,,cassimir ,,delavigne3 ,les ,comdiens4 ,reasoning from the standpoint that the stomach is the great motor of vital energy1 it may justly be adduced that everything which contributes to a perfect balance of its mechanism is of inestimable importance4 ,as1 moreover1 the true function of improved cookery is to second hygiene and to replace medicaments by ingenious combinations of natural products1 it will be readily apparent that a good cook and a good writer on cookery--a cook who can compose and a writer who can suggest and stimulate--at once become of even greater value than a college of physicians4 ,illustration3 ,,un ,,viel ,,amateur ,a4 ,b4 ,l4 ,grimod de ,reynire1 n ,paris le #bj #i;bre1 #agef ,from an old print ,these desirable qualifications belong preminently to the ,french1 as brewing belongs to the ,germans1 weaving to the ,orientals1 sculpture to the ,italians1 and mechanical invention to the ,americans4 ,the same facilities present themselves in many countries--it has remained for ,france to perfect them and create a literature on the subject distinctively its own4 ,the ,frenchman may keep on his hat during the entr'actes of a play and be forever wrangling with his mode of government1 but he has taught the world how to dine4 ,let me have books6 cries ,horace2 ,let us have cooks6 exclaims the ,gaul4 ,and with the cooks come the cook-books--the meditations1 codes1 almanacs1 physiologies1 manuals1 and guides4 ,in considering those works that have treated most pleasingly of the art with which mankind is so directly concerned thrice a day1 that of ,brillat-,savarin stands foremost4 ,he is the ,addison of the dinner-table1 as instructive as he is diverting1 and his brilliant disquisition will remain a classic so long as dinners endure4 ,but ,grimod de la ,reynire1 whose contributions ,savarin passed by in silence1 had preceded him and had first enlightened the past century in regard to what ,molire has termed la science des bons moreaux4 ,let justice be rendered where justice is due--the ,physiology of ,taste is indebted in no little degree to the ,almanac of the ,epicures4 ,had ,la ,reynire possessed as much refinement as ,savarin1 had he observed greater concentration1 and had he refrained from the frequent puffery of mercantile establishments1 the ,almanach might not be numbered to-day among unjustly forgotten books4 ,but he is not alone in his references to the tradesmen3 even ,savarin is guilty of shop-puffery to a limited extent--a trait almost universal among ,french writers on gastronomy1 though none have vied with ,la ,reynire in immortalising a maker of pts or in elevating a vender of truffles to the dignity of a minister of state4 ,the fact that he was afflicted with a deformity of his hands1 and that his numerous volumes and contributions to the press were written with an artificial member1 renders his literary labours the more surprising4 ,a fluent writer1 whose humour and verve sparkle from every page of his subject proper1 it is to be regretted that he is so little known by the present generation1 for the eight rare little volumes which comprise the ,almanach des ,gourmands may be classed among the most sprightly and learned dissertations relating to the pleasures of the table4 ,numerous almanacs have succeeded his4 ,but these are like harmonicas compared with a ,stradivarius1 or the ,confessions of ,rousseau contrasted with the ,life of ,cellini4 ,a veritable storehouse of epicurean lore1 his unique treatise should be republished1 with its eulogiums left out1 and its finer fancies and wealth of culinary teachings retained to instruct and charm anew4 ,in a revision of the work1 these allusions to the fournisseurs could be omitted to advantage1 and thus a most useful treatise be presented in a much more concise form4 ,it should be stated1 in justice to the author1 that his references to alimentary dealers and wine-merchants were not all of a laudatory character4 ,his pills were not wholly sugar-coated2 any delinquent who merited censure was summarily dealt with4 ,the ,almanach wielded a powerful influence1 and could make or mar4 ,from the very first year of its appearance it asserted its sway1 a supremacy that no one ventured to contest4 ,its decrees were inexorable1 and woe to the restaurateur who failed in a matelote1 the dealer who was lacking in courtesy1 the merchant who was guilty of over-charging1 or the purveyor whose wares were found wanting4 ,the editor's caustic pen was as dreaded as it was respected4 ,a paragraph rendered a furnisher famous1 a disparaging line caused a shop to be avoided4 ,its edicts were a ,vehmgericht from which there was no appeal4 ,thus it maintained a surveillance and an influence that were not without their excellent results--a censorship that would be invaluable in the present days of adulterations4 ,written in a more serious vein is the ,manuel des ,amphitryons1 a large octavo dealing with the art of carving1 bills of fare for each season1 and table proprieties4#bj ,this volume is valuable chiefly for the great variety of its menus--the joint production of the author and the presiding genius of the ,rocher de ,cancale when ,parisian cookery had attained its greatest distinction4 ,the menus1 each of which is commented upon at length1 are remarkable for their elaborateness and diversity1 and illustrate the great inventive resources of the period4 ,any one of those that are designed for sixty covers would seem sufficient1 with judicious selection and by the substitution of a few dishes1 according to the season1 to serve throughout the year4 ,the last division of the volume1 relating to table usages1 is covered in the ,almanach1 as is also some of the matter of the first division4 ,it is in the ,manuel that we find the gifted author in his most serious mood and most impressed with his responsibilities4 ,to guide the capricious stomachs of a great capital in the right way1 to instruct unerringly in the grand art du savoir vivre1 to give a new impetus to a refinement that the ,jacobins and the ,directory had well nigh relegated to oblivion1 was a task that might not be entered upon lightly or undertaken without a grave sense of its importance4 ,the bills of fare are veritable morsels to turn over on the tongue4 ,for if1 as ,la ,fontaine avers1 le changement de mets rjouit l'homme--how important that man's daily change be an appetising one6 ,and yet one may well rejoice that he lives in an age when a good dinner may be composed of a simple soup1 a perfectly cooked fish1 an entre1 a bird1 and a salad1 with a good wine served at its proper temperature4 ,cookery has changed with time1 and the manual of a host of to-day differs as much as does his costume from that of a century ago4 ,this is not saying that on a stimulating winter's day it were not worth a walk of many a league to dine where the menu had been superintended by the author of the ,manuel and executed by the ,rocher--if that were possible at present4 ,alexandre-,balthazar-,laurent ,grimod de la ,reynire was born in ,paris1 ,november #bj1 #ageh4 ,his early life was an adventurous one1 and after first identifying himself with belles-lettres he studied and practised law1 besides engaging in various artistic1 literary1 and mercantile pursuits4 ,in his thirty-ninth year he became enamoured of an actress--,mlle4 ,mzeray--to which circumstance the world is largely indebted for the ,almanach and the ,manuel des ,amphitryons4 ,on declaring his passion with all the fervour of a highly impressionable nature1 only to meet with a repulse1 he determined to look to gastronomy for consolation1 a resolve he at once expressed in poetic form under the title ,my ,abnegation1 the poem being addressed to ,a ,celebrated ,actress and published in a dramatic journal of which he was the editor4 ,a stanza may be cited3 ,de vrais amis1 un doux asile1 ,des dners fins et dlicats3 ,voil pour mon me tranquille1 ,qui vaut mieux que des hlas6 7,true friends a few1 a nice abode1 ,and dinners fine and recherchs-- ,far better such for peace of mind ,than ,love's refrain1 ,ah1 lack-a-day67 ,this sentiment would show him to have been a true philosopher1 accepting the situation placidly1 and recognising that in love there is always one who kisses and the other who extends the cheek4 ,fine and delicate dinners6--therein1 of a truth1 may be found a marvellous panacea for lacerated affections and the buffets of the world4 ,to be sure1 he had already belonged for many years to a society known as the ,socit des ,mercredis1 composed of seventeen members1 who were in the habit of dining weekly at the ,rocher de ,cancale1 then the most celebrated restaurant of ,paris4 ,but it was not until ,cupid frowned1 in the person of ,mlle4 ,mzeray1 that he turned seriously to gastronomy and made it a profession4 ,the fact that he had already been married for ten years in no wise detracts from the value of his recipe--a medication for melancholy that has been overlooked in the ,anatomy4 ,the key-note of his verses on the occasion was emphasised by a postscript extolling the pleasures of the table1 a paragraph that appeared subsequently in an amended form in the ,almanach4 ,already in this ebullition of a misogynist for the moment1 we detect the redundant fancy and familiarity with his theme which marked the great gastronomer who was soon to wield his facile pen in the interests of the science of which he became the exponent-in-chief3 ,the author of this abnegation1 who some day intends publishing a panegyric of gastronomy1 has always regarded the pleasures of good cheer as the first of the mind and the senses4 ,it will be acknowledged that these are the first one enjoys1 and those that may be most often multiplied4 ,who may say as much of the rest8 ,is there a woman1 however beautiful1 who is worth these admirable red partridges of ,languedoc or ,cvennes2 these pts de foie of geese and ducks which will forever celebrate the cities of ,toulouse1 ,auch1 and ,strassburg2 these stuffed tongues of ,troyes2 these sausages of ,arles that render the pig so estimable and so precious8 ,can one compare a pretty1 simpering face with these splendid sheep of ,ganges and the ,ardennes whose flesh fairly melts in one's mouth8 ,what comparison can be made between a piquante face and these pullets of ,bresse1 these capons of ,mans8444 ,who would oppose to these delights the caprices of a woman1 her poutings1 her vagaries1 her refusals1 and even her favours8 ,in quite a different strain1 a few years later1 we shall hear him compare a peach--ripe1 rosy1 juicy1 and melting--to lovely femininity1 and in the amended form of the note that accompanied his renunciation perceive his greater delicacy of touch1 as well as mark his conversion to the doctrine of ,dsaugiers3 ,pour tre aim des belles1 ,aimons2 ,un beau jour changent-elles1 ,changeons6 7,to win the favours of the fair1 ,be bold2 ,if then they lack in debonnaire1 ,be cold67 a postulate that may have its drawbacks1 but nevertheless offers its advantages4 ,it is with an author's work1 however1 and not with his personal traits that the public is mainly concerned1 and of ,la ,reynire's literary productions the ,almanach constitutes his greatest claim to distinction4 ,so closely is this associated with the famous ,jury dgustateur1 of which he was the founder1 secretary1 and mainspring1 that one may scarcely be considered without the other--the ,almanach was the jury1 and the jury was the ,almanach4 ,the tribunal1 which was formed for the purpose of influencing and ameliorating the provisions and food products of the ,parisian market1 was composed of an indefinite number of jurors1 though these never exceeded twelve or were less than five4 ,each of the judges was a tried epicure1 eating and drinking whatever he was asked to pass upon1 without knowing the names of the contributors1 in order that everything submitted might be estimated in strict accordance with its merits4 ,dr4 ,gastaldy1 an eminent physician1 was chosen president1 ,la ,reynire preferring the secretaryship1 with its more arduous duties4 ,the president is described as one who added to the finest palate and the most practised tact the largest experience1 and who combined all the advantages that might result from profound theory and active practice4 ,it is related of him that on a certain occasion1 when reminded by a lady that he was taking a large portion of macaroni after a very plenteous repast1 he observed3 ,madame1 macaroni is heavy1 it is true1 but it is like the ,doge of ,venice3 when he arrives one must make room for him--every one stands aside4 ,the ,marquis de ,cussy1 who declared1 ,roasting is at once nothing and the infinite1 and whom ,la ,reynire termed the first gastronomer of the age1 was a no less distinguished member4 ,he was also an entertaining writer on gastronomy1 and contributed some articles anonymously to the ,almanach1 his greatest literary fame resting on his ,art ,culinaire4 ,illustration3 ,,le ,,premier ,,devoir ,d',,un ,,amphitryon ,frontispiece of the fifth year of the ,almanach des ,gourmands ,the meetings of the society took place weekly at the residence of the secretary1 the sittings occupying five hours4 ,that these sances were of a philanthropic as well as a sybaritic nature is apparent from the preface to the second year of the ,almanach1 where the editor states that he will regret neither the pains nor the indigestions his duties entail1 if the national glory in every branch of the alimentary art be only impelled to renewed progress4 ,it was the secretary's place to take note of all controversies and decisions1 which he afterward drew up and elaborated1 submitting his reports to the president at the following meeting for verification4 ,an extract of these decisions1 duly collated1 was sent to the interested persons4 ,all forms of eatables and drinkables constituted part of the jury's deliberations1 and of these contributions only a single sample was passed upon at a time4 ,when the judgments were unfavourable to the artist whose handiwork had been submitted1 he was advised accordingly1 in order that he might correct and that at a subsequent test of the same object he might prove that he had profited by the disinterested verdict4 ,if he refused to do so1 the decision was printed in the following ,almanach as it originally stood4 ,it was noted that many merchants and culinary artists lived on their reputations1 taking advantage of a formerly celebrated name to deceive the public and abuse its confidence long after they had ceased to merit it1 whilst1 on the other hand1 an obscure person endowed perchance with great talent and zealous in his art was not unfrequently the inventor of productions worthy of the greatest masters4 ,it was the purpose of the jury and its exponent to expose the former and rescue the latter from oblivion4 ,naturally1 these attacks on the manufacturers and venders often brought their rejoinders1 some of which were by no means devoid of interest1 as1 for instance1 a letter from a certain ,m4 ,grec1 a merchant who had sold a spoiled pate to a customer and refused to take it back in exchange for other merchandise3 ,i am at a loss to comprehend1 ,monsieur1 why you should have attached an infamous note to my name in the fifth year of your ',almanach4' ,a lawyer who is not without reputation wished me to attack you in return1 telling me ,i could lead you a merry chase 7que je pourrais vous mener loin74 ,i did not care to follow his advice1 because ,i reflected that your book and its author are far from being makers of reputations1 either for good or for bad2 perhaps the public1 which appreciates you at your true value1 has formed an opinion directly contrary to that you express4 ,on this hypothesis1 far from having to complain of you1 ,i owe you my thanks4 ,to this end1 ,i have even thought of offering substantial proof by sending you a fine truffled turkey whose aroma1 penetrating your olfactories1 would exercise its benign influence1 and inspire a good word for me in the future4 ,but ,i restrain myself1 for the reasons ,i have just stated and the fact that any good you might say might have the effect of injuring me in the eyes of the public4 ,all things considered1 ,i will keep my turkey to eat with my friends and with the person who was kind enough to lend me his pen2 for as a stranger and a simple merchant1 ,i do not pride myself on writing1 but on honestly conducting my business4 ,besides1 have no fears1 we will drink to your health and to the preservation of one of the most useful men of the state4 ,the fine irony throughout the letter will assuredly commend itself to the reader1 as it undoubtedly nettled the editor4 ,the reference to the truffled turkey--and this was to have been a dinde truffe--was notably the stroke of a master1 artfully designed to hit the recipient in a tender spot1 an under-thrust that could not have failed to tell4 ,but however great the editor's disappointment1--for one remembers his appetising essay1 ,des ,dindes ,braises1 wherein he specifies that the turkey should be well perfumed with truffles1--he was more than equal to the occasion by retaliating that the lawyer could hardly proceed as far as the pt if it still remained in the shop of ,m4 ,grec1 and had been left to itself2 for it had already begun to march of its own accord4 ,the writer's decision to keep the turkey is referred to as in excellent taste withal1 in comparison with the fate of the pt4 ,nor was an expos of a guest who had served a large and inferior pt at a rural outing1 furnished by a vulgar artist--claiming it as one of the incomparable productions of a celebrated maker--less merited and severe4 ,the pt was pompously announced as coming from the fragrant ovens of a certain ,m4 ,le ,sage4 ,at the mention of this revered name says the editor1 the attention of all the guests was directed to the piece1 the opening of which was eagerly awaited4 ,this pt was at first sight very inviting1 but no sooner was the crust removed than we perceived from the enormous void that it could not have been made by ,m4 ,le ,sage1 whose pts are always well filled1 and are garnished in addition with a blond of veal that renders them easily distinguishable4 ,the one in question1 which was presented as a pt of ham of ,bayonne1 offered merely an indigestible mixture of ordinary ham1 dried and spoiled1 interspersed with chunks of tough veal2 the crust corresponded to the interior1 and the stuffing to the whole4 ,we indignantly protested that such a pt could not emanate from the manufactory of ,m4 ,le ,sage2 but the donor insisting stoutly that he had himself purchased it from him1 he was believed1 in spite of the fact that he was a man of the law4 ,we had our doubts1 notwithstanding2 for it is less rare to find a lying knave than a detestable pt emanating from ,m4 ,le ,sage1 who1 through the assertion made1 found himself dishonoured in the estimation of thirty people4 ,the result of the author's conviction was a letter to the injured party1 the latter's prompt appearance at the office of the offender1 a written apology by the culprit1 and a promise to the editor of the ,almanach that he would atone for his crime by producing a pt whose authenticity could not be questioned1--which still remains for him to do1 adds the editor1 no doubt with a sigh of disappointment4 ,in view of these denunciations1 one may readily understand that the products submitted to the jury must have been1 almost without exception1 of a very high order of merit4 ,with such a rigid arbiter1 few would care to incur his censure or render themselves subject to his lash4 ,the frequent references to the venders1 therefore1 served a treble purpose--that of stimulating the art of cookery1 exposing knavery1 and sumptuously regaling the table of the tribunal4 ,there is this besides to be said in extenuation of the frequent references to the ptissiers and rtisseurs--that1 being specialists1 they were more likely to advance an art than the average person1 however familiar with the principles of cookery1 who was not in possession of the mechanical accessories of the professional1 or who was not accustomed daily to turn his hand to practical account4 ,to become a member of the jury1 a unanimity of votes was necessary1 rank or social status being a secondary consideration to gastronomic accomplishments and brilliancy of appetite and mind4 ,women were not excluded1 and1 strange to relate1 among these was ,mlle4 ,mzeray1 a striking proof that time can cool the warmest love to friendship4 ,but flounces and laces were allowed no voice in the solemn deliberations of the tribunal4 ,it might be pleasant to see a pretty gourmande under arms1 and have her join in the coup du milieu which was always obligatory1 but how might petticoats decide upon the fate of a suprme or a truffled pt6 ,women1 says ,la ,reynire1 who sometimes assist at the sances1 have no deliberative voice--one can readily understand the reason4 ,with a palate vitiated by sweets1 her discernment must prove unreliable1 and there would always be the danger of her prejudicing a susceptible member through her allurements and coquetries4 ,the tribunal had its own codes and rules1 which were as fixed as the stars4 ,among these was that no one should speak ill of any one with whom he had dined1 for a period proportionate to the importance of the dinner4 ,each guest was provided with a menu in advance1 of which the contributions from outside sources to be adjudged formed only a part4 ,the dinner proper was prepared by the cordon-bleu of ,la ,reynire4 ,in ease of inability to attend1 an excuse was obligatory not later than twenty-four hours before the time specified1 while a failure to be present after having accepted was punishable by a fine of five hundred francs4 ,this rule was inflexible1 as ,mlle4 ,mzeray found to her cost when1 having disregarded it1 she was banished from the sances for three years1 returning1 at the expiration of her sentence1 only in time to assist at the final meeting of the jury in ,may1 #ahab4 ,a quarter of an hour's grace was allowed with reference to the set time of the dinner--not a moment more3 a rule the modern host would do well to imitate4 ,every minute after the prescribed hour for the repast that one is forced to wait for tardy guests becomes a penance to those who are punctual1 besides the inconvenience it causes to the entertainer and the cook4 ,la ,reynire's fifteen minutes of grace is all-sufficient4 ,during his reign1 indeed1 there were some who closed their doors to all comers that failed to appear at the precise hour4 ,for the use and greater convenience of the jury1 he invented the speaking-tube communicating from the dining-room to the kitchen2 the table volante1 as we have seen1 was already in use1 and the ascending and descending slide was known4 ,let it not be inferred1 however1 that he considered himself a gourmand in the strict sense of the term1 despite the title of the work with which he is most closely associated1 and the fact that the weekly sittings of the gustatory jury occupied five hours4 ,he would doubtless have drawn the distinction between a gourmand and a gourmet most sharply had such a possibility entered his mind as a dinner of innumerable courses and water1 compared with an extended repast of scientifically prepared dishes and their complementary wines4 ,in the former case he could scarcely have projected1 much less have completed1 the ,almanach1 to say nothing of having overtaken his eightieth year4 ,for that matter1 he is careful to state1 in a letter to the ,marquis de ,cussy1 touching upon the light in which he was placed before the public1 that with pen in hand he was always a gourmand1 but when the fork took the place of the pen it was quite another matter4 ,it will prove interesting to know how the word gourmand was defined by one who was most capable of interpreting it1 the differentiation gourmet being then much less marked than at present3 ,the ,gourmand is not only the being whom nature has endowed with an excellent stomach and a vast appetite--all robust and well-constituted men are in this category--but also he who adds to these advantages an enlightened taste1 whose first characteristic resides in a singularly delicate palate cultivated by long experience4 ,with him all the senses should be in constant accord with that of the taste1 inasmuch as he should criticise his dishes even before they approach his lips4 ,it is sufficient to say that his vision should be penetrating1 his ear alert1 his touch fine1 and his tongue capable4 ,thus the gourmand whom the ,academy paints for us as a gross being is1 on the contrary1 by profession a person gifted with extreme delicacy2 with him health alone should be vigorous4 ,again1 he says3 ,it only requires a voracious appetite to be a glutton4 ,it demands an exquisite judgment1 a profound knowledge of every branch of the culinary art1 a sensual and delicate palate1 and a thousand other qualities very difficult to combine1 in order to merit the title of ,gourmand4 ,in still another reference to the epicure he would have him possess1 in addition1 that jovial humour without which the best of repasts is but a sad and solemn function--a person well equipped with anecdotes and amusing stories with which he may fill up the spaces between the services1 so that the sober guests may forgive him his appetite4 ,some may deem his definition includes more than the qualities usually assigned to an amateur of dining1 and that it touches too closely on the realm of ,gargantua4 ,but it must not be lost sight of that his cardinal mission was that of improving all manner of food preparations and bringing the table to its acme of perfection4 ,without such appreciative votaries1 cookery must necessarily languish1 and dining prove merely an obligatory routine2 it is to such as he that the art owes its present superiority1 and to whom mankind should be duly thankful4 ,as he has defined it1 gastronomy is an immense book ever open to him who may read it aright1 whose pages present a series of mobile pictures1 and whose horizon extends beyond one's view4 ,all the products of the animal and vegetable world were pronounced upon by this supreme judge of succulencies1 whose palate and appetite never failed1 and whose pen responded to the most delicate and fugitive sensations of taste4 ,the ,almanach numbers eight small volumes1 each containing a characteristic dedication4 ,each volume also includes a quaint and carefully engraved frontispiece executed under the direction of the author1 the subjects representing ,the ,library of a ,gourmand of the ,nineteenth ,century1 ,the ,audiences of a ,gourmand1 ,a ,sance of the ,testing ,jury1 ,the ,meditations of a ,gourmand1 ,the ,first ,duty of a ,host1 ,the ,dreams of a ,gourmand1 ,the ,levee of a ,gourmand1 and ,the ,most ,mortal ,enemy of the ,dinner4 ,the first volume is dedicated to ,m4 ,camerani1 whose name is attached to a famous soup of his own invention1 and whom ,la ,reynire terms one of the most erudite epicures of ,france4 ,the second is inscribed to ,m4 d',aigrefeuille1 than whom none could better appreciate the merits of an artistic repast1 and whose charms of appetite and conversation were equally balanced4 ,the third is sacred to the memory of ,carlin ,bertinazzi1 dernier ,arlequin of the ,comdie ,italienne of ,paris1 an actor whose distinguished talents served for forty years as the best of digestives for all epicures4 ,the fourth is consecrated to the members of the ,socit des ,mercredis1 who1 by the finesse of their taste and the extent of their appetite1 have given such an impetus to the first of the arts1 and whose admirable tact has proved a stimulus to the greatest cooks4 ,the fifth has for its tribute the souvenir of ,dr4 ,gastaldy1 ,prsident-perptuel of the ,jury dgustateur1 who united in the highest degree all those qualities that combine to form the most intrepid gastronomer1 but who was finally vanquished by apoplexy while attacking a pt de foie gras4 ,the sixth immortalises ,grimod de ,verneuil1 the worthy successor of ,dr4 ,gastaldy both in appetite and experience1 whose head had never been turned by the most copious libations of the finest wines of the world4 ,the seventh is dedicated to the memory of ,albouis d',azincourt1 a member of the ,jury dgustateur and a founder of the ,socit des ,mercredis--always equally honoured as host or guest4 ,the eighth and concluding volume pays a feeling panegyric to ,vatel1 in whom the alimentary art recognises one of its greatest and most unselfish masters4 ,beginning with a dissertation on the various alimentary products created for the delectation of man1 each succeeding issue treats of the subject in some of its numerous phases until the suspension of the register in #ahab4 ,a great charm of the work consists in its magisterial tone1 as well as in its unbounded enthusiasm1 humour1 and originality4 ,the artistic presentation of a subject and the importance with which it invests some seemingly trifling detail that in other hands might have been unnoticed is also a characteristic feature1 as1 for instance1 the admirable references to hors d'uvres and ,the ,distractions of the ,table4 ,other topics1 such as ,rural ,hosts1 ,indigestions1 ,epicurean ,visits1 ,town ,dinners1 ,kitchen ,utensils1 ,of ,wines1 ,of ,hosts1 ,on the ,placing of ,guests at ,table1 etc41 are handled with an address and a comprehensiveness no less striking than the scenes which form the frontispieces4 ,while no doubt the author understood the theory of the cuisine1 we have no reason to suppose that1 like ,dumas1 he was a thoroughly practical cook1 or took pleasure in surprising his friends with some appetising dish of his own preparation4 ,it was his province to criticise the productions of others1 and to do this it was unnecessary to assume the functions of a chef4 ,the wine-taster who is most competent to judge of the merits of a vintage does not need to be a viniculturist1 nor does the gastronomer necessarily require to be a practical cook4 ,in many branches of art the best teachers are frequently the poorest practitioners4 ,the most able critic of painting may never have held a brush1 and the maestro capable of evolving a ,mario may often be lacking in voice4 ,though a master of but a single instrument1 the leader of a great orchestra understands and guides all the vehicles of sound under his command--from the plectrum of the harp and plaint of the oboe to the diapason of viols and concord of horns--so intuitive is his sense of harmonious accord4 ,the virtuoso is such from his inherent superiority--of sight1 taste1 touch1 smell1 or hearing1 as the case may be--aided by years of study and cultivation in his especial craft4 ,the epicure is he who1 gifted with a hyper-susceptivity of taste and its complementary sense1 smell1 as well as long familiarity with viands and wines1 may detect savours unappreciated by the ordinary palate1 and thus understandingly and authoritatively pronounce upon the merits or demerits of a dish4 ,the ',almanach1' says the editor1 does not profess to be a cook-book--its duty is to try to stimulate the appetite of its readers2 upon the artists of the kitchen devolves the duty of satisfying it4 ,the home kitchen of the author1 while not elaborate1 was most carefully looked after by a cordon-bleu4 ,its excellence is attested by ,dumas1 who declares that one of the best dinners he ever had was when1 in company with ,count d',orsay1 he dined impromptu with ,la ,reynire a short time previous to his death4 ,the frontispiece of the fourth year1 entitled ,meditations of a ,gourmand1 represents ,la ,reynire in person seated at a writing-table in his robe de chambre4 ,he has evidently just suspended his labours to reconsider the materials which are to form the subjects of his homilies4 ,the different objects of his contemplation are ranged around him on various stands3 a stuffed calf's head1 a roasted capon1 a matelote of ,la ,rpe1 a ,strassburg pt de foie gras1 a plate of biscuits of ,abbeville1 etc41 his attention being engrossed for the moment by the calf's head4 ,various treatises on the alimentary art are scattered about him1 such as ,la ,ptisserie de ,sant1 ,les ,dons de ,comus1 and ,le ,confiseur ,moderne4 ,upon the edicts he is to pronounce hangs the fate of many a purveyor4 ,is his appetite keyed to the requirements of his task8 ,will the samples to be tested respond to the exactions of his critical palate8 ,or must his fealty be paid for by an indigestion that may postpone his labours in behalf of the noblest of the arts8 ,illustration3 ,,les ,m,,ditations ,d',,un ,,gourmand ,frontispiece of the fourth year of the ,almanach des ,gourmands ,his mien is solemn and his attitude one of intense absorption1 like that of a great statesman pondering some weighty coup d'tat4 ,at the end of the cabinet stands a tall buffet with numerous shelves laden with savoury viands and appetising beverages3 a boar's head of ,troyes1 a timbale of red partridges aux truffes1 eels of ,melun1 a cake of ,savoy1 a mortadelle of ,lyons1 a truffled turkey of ,prigord1 an ,italian cheese and sausages1 a ham of ,bayonne1 a pt of ,prigueux1 various dainties of ,provence1 pastries and apple-jelly of ,rouen1 with numerous varieties of wines and liqueurs4 ,all of these articles1 gravely observes the editor in his explanation of the plate1 are to be successively passed in review by the gourmand1 inasmuch as they are the subjects of his literary work--no other objects of art decorate the cabinet1 as nothing should be allowed to distract the critic4 ,it would appear at first sight to the uninitiated that such a task must prove beyond the capacities of the ordinary mortal4 ,but this contingency he has already explained at length in a chapter on ,indigestion4 ,it is often much less to excess of eating than to the quality of aliments that indigestion is due4 ,one person may have eaten ten times more than another without inconvenience1 and another find himself seriously disturbed from having partaken of a single dish that did not agree4 ,it is the place of the epicure to study the nature of his stomach1 in order to supply it with only such aliments as are homogeneous4 ,milk foods1 hot pastries1 etc41 which usually agree with women1 do not always agree with robust stomachs which may be able to digest an ox1 but quail before a little pot of cream4 ,but where through repeated experiences one has obtained a perfect knowledge of his temperament he may trust to his appetite without fear4 ,lack of sufficient variety in alimentation also counts for much in stomachic derangements4 ,hasty pudding and milk1 ,artemus ,ward used to say1 are a harmless diet if eaten moderately1 but if you eat it incessantly for six consecutive weeks it will produce instant death4 ,as the frontispiece of the fifth volume exhibits a splendidly appointed kitchen1 with its ranges and saucepans in full play1 and the amphitryon receiving the menu for the dinner from the ,washington of his kitchen1 it may be assumed that the distinguished critic proved equal to the occasion just described4 ,as1 moreover1 there is seen suspended from the chimney three hams of ,bayonne from the shops of ,m4 ,pouillan and ,m4 de la ,rouille1 and on the spits a chine of veal from ,mme4 ,simon1 sirloins from ,m4 de ,launey1 legs of mutton from ,m4 ,darras1 venison from ,mme4 ,chevet1 fowls from ,mme4 ,biennet1 etc41 it may be further concluded that he had lost none of his appetite and still remained a spur to the noble emprise of the ,jury dgustateur4 ,that there are no wines visible on the pantry shelves need not trouble the reader4 ,no one who has scanned a volume of the ,almanach will doubt for a moment that the chef had an abundance for himself1 his aid1 and the sauces that simmer in his pans1 or that numerous hampers of fine vintages from ,m4 ,tailleur were wanting to wash down any repast at which the editor officiated4#ba ,but these laudations1 which form so notable a feature of the work under consideration1 were a part and portion of its inspiration and existence4 ,without them it never would have been written1 or at any rate its career would have been greatly shortened4 ,after all1 who would not envy the author his glorious appetite2 or1 with his exquisite appreciation1 who would censure his fondness for pts and his rigour in maintaining their high standard8 ,with reference to the remarks on the testing of dishes1 it may be observed that it is comparatively easy to decide upon the respective merits of two different alimentary preparations4 ,it is far more difficult to pronounce on wines of fine quality and compare those that are closely allied4 ,for here the sense of smell in particular is called upon to exercise its most critical functions2 and this sense1 after several essays at comparison or attempts to place the special aromas and ethers that are evolved in the bouquet and sve of a vintage1 becomes rapidly cloyed4 ,many other conditions also frequently arise to interfere with absolute judgment4 ,the temperature of the wine and mood of the atmosphere1 one's surroundings at the time1 the state of one's stomach and consequently of the palate1 the nature of the viands that accompany the wine--aye1 the very glass in which its gold or rubies are imprisoned--all exert their influence1 and it is best not to assert one's self too decisively in the case of a single testing or comparison4 ,concerning a highly important topic--,the ,health of ,cooks--the ,almanach discourses at length with its accustomed force and originality3 ,the index of a good cook should ply without ceasing from the saucepans to the mouth1 and it is only by thus momentarily tasting his ragots that he may determine their precise point4 ,his palate1 therefore1 must be extremely delicate1 virginal1 as it were1 so that the least thing may stimulate it and advise it of its faults4 ,but the constant fumes of the fires1 the necessity of drinking frequently1 and often poor wine1 to moisten a parched throat1 the vapours of the charcoal1 humours and biliousness1 all tend to impair the organs of taste4 ,the palate becomes crusted1 as it were2 it has no longer either that tact or finesse1 that exquisite sensibility on which depends the susceptibility of the taste2 it finally becomes excoriated and as insensible as the conscience of an old judge4 ,le seul moyen de lui rendre cette fleur qu'il a perdue1 de lui faire reprendre sa souplesse1 ses forces et sa dlicatesse1 c'est de purger le ,cuisinier1 telle rsistance qu'il y oppose2 car il en est qui1 sourds la voix de la gloire1 ne voient aucune ncessit de prendre une mdecine lorsqu'ils se portent bien4 ,supplementing his essays on the health and the duties of the chef and the requirements of the cuisinire is his treatise on the matre-d'htel1 wherein the qualifications of a steward are most minutely set forth4 ,of all those whose labours have for their object the satisfaction of our appetite and promotion of the culinary art1 the profession of the steward1 he insists1 calls for the greatest number of virtues and the widest knowledge4 ,a good matre-d'htel should be at once an excellent cook1 a fine dgustateur1 a clever purveyor1 a skilful servitor1 an exact calculator1 a good conversationalist1 and an efficient and polished agent4 ,he should be familiar not only with the theory of the cuisine in all its ramifications1 but1 if necessary1 be able to turn his knowledge to practical account4 ,for how may he command the respect of the cook who is under his orders if he does not thoroughly understand his art8 ,how may he regulate the conduct of the chef1 control his ragots1 and direct his work according to the principles of the art and the special tastes of his employer if he is not a very fine critic8 ,equal competency is demanded with reference to his purchases1 the varying of his menus1 anticipating the complaints of a jealous cook1 maintaining his authority over the other servants1 and regulating the financial part of the kitchen and household1--truly a difficult combination to procure4 ,as to his probity1 the author reasons that one may scarcely expect to find the phnix1 and that to the victor naturally belong the spoils--that it is better to have a competent officer1 who can buy to advantage1 than a novice who1 gaining nothing on his purchases1 is imposed upon by the venders and cannot control his household expenditures4 ,what difference does it make to the employer if his steward help himself a little in serving him1 provided he look after his interests sufficiently and charge him only with the market price of a commodity8 ,upon a good commissary in particular depends the success of a club or a restaurant4 ,without a competent purchaser who combines most of the qualities enumerated in the ,almanach1 the chef must labour at a disadvantage2 and1 in the case of a club1 a house committee bear the odium of a poor cuisine and the maledictions of the members4 ,the ,almanach abounds in piquant aphorisms1 some of which perhaps will better serve to illustrate the spirit of the work than a more lengthy abstract of many of the essays themselves3 ,the kitchen is a country in which there are always discoveries to be made4 ,it is the entres that cooks usually invest with their greatest cunning1 and it is principally through these that they expect to be judged4 ,an overturned salt-cellar is to be feared solely when it is overturned in a good dish4 ,the table is a magnet which not only draws to itself1 but joins together all those who approach it4 ,it is as necessary that the master of the house should understand how to carve well as it is for a young girl to dance in order to secure a husband4 ,digestion is the business of the stomach1 and indigestion that of the doctors4 ,the stomach of a true gourmand1 like the casemates of a besieged city1 should be proof against bombs4 ,thirteen at table is a number to be dreaded when there is only enough to go round for twelve4 ,a good pastry-maker is as rare as a grand orator4 ,it is especially at table that one should attend carefully to the matter in hand and consider what one is about4 ,true gourmands have always finished their dinner before the dessert2 that which is eaten after the roast is done only out of pure politeness4 ,pastry is to the cuisine what figures of rhetoric are to discourse4 ,an oration without figures and a dinner without pastry are equally insipid4 ,there is a precise moment at which every dish should be savoured1 previous to which or after which it causes only an imperfect sensation4 ,wine is the milk of the old1 the balm of adults1 and the vehicle of the gourmand4 ,without sauces a dinner were as bare as a house that has been levied on by the officers of the sheriff4 ,the etymology of the word faisander sufficiently proclaims that the pheasant should be waited for as long as a pension from the government by a man of letters who has never known how to flatter any one4 ,it is notorious that a dinner1 however generous1 has never disturbed a person who has preceded or followed it by a walk of five or six leagues2 and that indigestions are virtually unknown to great pedestrians4 ,with many people a stomach that is proof against everything is the principle of happiness1 and with everybody this organ exercises a greater influence than one imagines on the acts of life4 ,life is so brief that we should not glance either too far backwards or forwards in order to be happy4 ,let us therefore study how to fix our happiness in our glass and on our plate4 ,un ,amphitryon dlicat no doit pas souffrir que la galanterie dgnre chez lui en scandale2 et s'il invite de jeunes et jolies femmes ce doit toujours tre avec leurs maris1 et jamais avec leurs amants4 ,unfortunately1 no menus of the ,jury dgustateur have been preserved1 though one is presented of the celebrated restaurant1 the ,rocher de ,cancale--a dinner of twenty-four covers1 served ,november #bh1 #ahji1 at a cost of one thousand francs4 ,considering the elaborateness of the bill of fare1 the price was assuredly extremely moderate1 including1 as it did1 four soups1 four relevs1 twelve entres1 four large pieces1 four roasts1 and eight entremets1 all served in the highest style of the art4 ,in many of the best ,parisian restaurants to-day no figures are attached to the carte1 so that one may dine without disturbing his digestion by thinking of the expense4 ,the awakening comes later1 with the addition1 when1 if one be an epicure with a partiality for rare vintages1 he will be apt to recall ,branger's ,voyage au ,pays de ,cocagne and its dnouement3 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,mais qui vient dtruire 7,but who would dispel ,ce rve enchanteur8 ,this dream all-divine8 ,amis1 j'en ai honte1 ,friends1 to my shame1 ,c'est quelqu'un qui monte ',tis the restaurant's claim-- ,apporter le compte ,the bill of the entres ,du restaurateur4 ,and score of the wine47 ,the menu of the dinner at the ,rocher will prove attractive reading--in marked contrast to the average bill of fare1 which is so often made up for the eye and is generally without originality or distinction4 ,what an embarrassment of riches in the entres6 how imposing the large pieces6 what a pageant of delectable entremets6 ,how majestically the bisque of crabs leads off the fte1 and pike and turbot proudly stem the tide6 ,the comparative absence of vegetables need not be criticised1 as these naturally figure as garnishes of several of the dishes4 ,the asparagus1 too1 would take the place of a salad which is not included2 and with so varied a programme oysters may well have been dispensed with for lack of sufficient space4 ,that each individual dish was a triumph we may rest assured1 or some word of depreciation for future guidance would certainly have appeared in the ,almanach4 ,menu de #bd ,couverts1 pour le ,jeudi #bh ,novembre1 #ahji4 #d ,potages4 ,une bisque d'crevisses4 ,un potage la ,reine au lait d'amandes1 avec biscotes4 ,une ,julienne aux pointes d'asperges4 ,un consomm de volaille4 #d ,relevs de ,potages4 ,un brochet la ,chambord4 ,une dinde aux truffes4 ,un turbot4 ,une culotte de buf au vin de ,madre1 garnie de lgumes4 #ab ,entres4 ,un aspic de filets mignons de perdreaux4 ,une jardinire4 ,des filets de poularde1 piqus aux truffes4 ,des perdreaux rouges au fumet4 ,des filets de mauviette sauts4 ,des scaloppes de poularde1 au velout4 ,des filets de lapereaux1 en turban4 ,un vol au vent la financire4 ,des ailerons piqus1 la chicore4 ,deux poulets de grains au beurre d'crevisse4 ,des scaloppes de saumon1 l'espagnole4 ,des filets mignons1 piqus de truffes4 ,,second ,,service4 #d grosses ,pices4 ,une truite4 ,une pt de foies gras4 ,des crevisses4 ,un jambon glac4 #d ,plats de ,rt4 ,un faisan4 ,des perlans4 ,des bcassines4 ,des soles4 #h ,entremts4 ,une jatte de blancmanger4 ,un miroton de pommes4 ,des asperges en branche4 ,des truffes la serviette4 ,une jatte de gele d'orange4 ,un souffl la vanille4 ,des cardons la moelle4 ,des truffes la serviette4 ,this menu1 which was termed illustrious and astounding by ,la ,reynire1 tells its own story too well1 as he observes1 to need any comment4 ,it is only to be regretted that there is no record of the accompanying wines or of the previous training of the guests who sat down to the feast4 ,the item un faisan will be understood in the plural1 there having been twenty-four persons present1 and among that number it is to be presumed that more than two or three would stand ready to attack a well-hung pheasant resplendent in his tail-feathers4 ,still1 there are only two poulets de grains specified in the list1 which would indicate that the menu was strictly one of quality1 not of quantity--a thing to coquet and flirt with1 rather than to charge upon with no thought of the penalty of the morrow4 ,as the mention of truffles la serviette occurs twice at the end of the lecture1 it may be assumed that this was considered a doubly important entremets--the last to leave its perfume in the mouth and accentuate the sve diffused by the final glass of ,chteau ,lafite or ,clos-,vougeot4 ,on the restaurateur and the chef the editor enjoins continued efforts looking to the advancement of the grand art of dining1 exhorting them that to cease their exertions would mean to recede1 and that to maintain their exalted reputation they should labour daily as if it were yet to be won4 ,altogether1 the ,almanach will be found most remunerative reading by those who peruse it with a proper sense of its important aim4 ,we may not hope to equal the appetite of the author1 it is true1 but its attentive study will assuredly stimulate appetite and amply instruct us in the sthetics and delights of the table4 ,the only dietetic heresy that presents itself to the writer is the eulogy of the strawberry as an article of diet1 for which ,linnus the botanist and ,dr4 ,boteler are originally responsible1 it being well known that this fruit in gout and rheumatism--two frequent colleagues of good cheer--is often as deadly as port4 ,preserved ,wiesbaden or ,bar-le-,duc strawberries1 safely tucked in the folds of an omelette1 are less pernicious1 and may be partaken of occasionally if convoyed by the right wine4 ,the raw fruit should always be sparingly indulged in by the epicure2 boys and women alone may eat it with comparative impunity4 ,to this one exception has been chronicled--,strawberries and cream render me sad1 said ,mme4 du ,deffand2 and1 remembering ,malherbe's praise of women and melons1 madame wisely left them alone4 ,finally1 among all those who have discoursed upon the theme1 it may be said that ,la ,reynire comes the nearest perhaps in illustrating ,montaigne's expression1 l'art de la gueule4 ,and1 despite the laudations of the venders with which it is so generously interlarded1 the ,almanach well merits a full morocco binding by ,ruban1 with dentelle borders l'oiseau1 and a pt stamped on its covers in gold4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,the ,,chef ,from a print after an old ,dutch master ,illustration ,a ,,german ,,speisekarte ,beim vollen ,humpen zechen wir1 wir krftigen ,germanen1 ,und trinken von dem edlen ,bier wie weiland unsere ,ahnen2 ,denn in dem edlen ,gerstensaft1 da sprudelt noch die alte ,kraft4#bb ,by the ,french the ,germans are charged with having no cuisine that is worthy of the name1 and having produced no poet of gastronomy or no work on the subject that merits serious attention4 ,dining at midday1 and fond of ,pumpernickel1 what can they be but barbarians1 and how may they be expected to comprehend the finesse of an art which has been created for the elect among mankind8 ,surely1 argues ,de ,quincey1 of the rabid animal who is caught dining at noonday1 the homo ferus who affronts the meridian sun by his inhuman meals1 we are entitled to say that he has a maw1 but nothing resembling a stomach4 ,a nation must be barbarous which dined in the morning4 ,as with day's decline the sun illumes with fairest hues the western sky1 and ,nature gradually prepares for sleep by the restful hour of twilight1 so it would seem that man1 in like manner1 after the cark and care of the day should refresh himself by the solace that waits upon the evening dinner and pleasant companionship ere he too retires for the slumbers that are to fit him for the exigencies of the morrow4 ,but habit is everything1 and it is well not to accept these aspersions too seriously1 and to remember that no nation surpasses the ,germans in the important art of baking1 including all forms of breadstuffs and pastry4 ,from her inviting ,bckereis and ,conditoreis floats an ambrosial fragrance that may not be equalled by the ptisseries of ,paris1 the variety of her products being as great as their cheapness and wholesomeness4 ,one is born a poet1 saith the adage2 it is equally true that the ,german is a born baker who has no superior in his sphere4 ,perchance ,german cook-books and gastronomical literature have been summarily passed upon1 and are not uninteresting reading1 after all4 ,it should be recollected that ,frederick the ,great wrote a poem in praise of his cook1 that ,martin ,schookius composed a book on cheese entitled ,de ,aversione ,casei1 and that still another old ,german work has for its theme the zest of a lemon-peel--a topic that assuredly calls for consummate skill in its elaboration4 ,since the latter half of the sixteenth century ,germany has contributed her full share of manuals on cookery as compared with most countries4 ,already1 about #aejj1 there appeared a work entitled ,ein ntzlichs ,buchlin von der ,speis des ,menschen4 ,among the more important treatises of the same century were ,ein neu ,kochbuch 7#aehg71 by ,marx ,rumpolt1 cook to the ,elector of ,mainz and to the ,queen of ,denmark1 and ,frau ,anna ,wecker's ,neu ,kstlich und ntzliches ,koch-,buch 7#aeig74 ,it was about this period that ,montaigne1 after his travels through ,italy and ,germany1 declared that even in the inns the ,germans paid far better attention to the furbishing of their plates and dishes than was the case with the hostelries of ,france4 ,treatises relating to wohl-schmeckenden ,speisen and vornehme ,tafeln have since continued to multiply in the ,fatherland1 until ,germany has become fully satisfied with her own mode of cookery and such modifications of certain ,french and ,italian dishes as accord with her chosen ideas of nutrition4 ,yet the ,german cook-book presents serious drawbacks4 ,for1 apart from the inevitable tendency of the ,zeitwort to twine itself around the end of well-nigh interminable sentences1 the characters of the language itself are so trying that a scientific treatise may be perused only at the risk of being compelled to resort to spectacles forever afterwards4 ,the melodious measures of ,goethe and ,schiller1 the cadences of ,heine and ,lenau1 will be found less formidable1 the rhythm and flow carrying the eye over the typographical boulders with greater ease4 ,a ,german cook-book1 however1 may well deter the most insatiable student from proceeding farther than the initial chapter4 ,think1 for example1 what the difficulties would be of absorbing a volume which presents such a title as this3 ,die ,feinere ,kochkunst dargestellt nach den ,erfordernissen unserer ,zeit1 mit ,bercksichtigung der damit in ,verbindung stehenden sonstigen ,zweigen der ,gastronomie4 ,fancy endeavouring to solve the true inwardness of an ancient ,nrnberg treatise which bears this explanation of its contents3 ,vollstndig vermehrtes ,trincier-,buch1 von ,tafeldecken ,trinciren1 zeitigung der ,mundkoste1 ,schauessen und ,schaugerichten1 benebens xxiv ,gast oder ,tischfragen4 ,and when we reflect that the ,german author who undertakes to elucidate a given theme probes it to the very bottom as far as human understanding and science can fathom it1 we may readily conclude that to master the literature of ,german gastronomy would call for stupendous patience on the part of an alien4 ,yet ,germany has contributed a volume in the ,french language respecting a province of the nation under consideration1 wherein the table manners1 customs1 alimentation1 and the public and private life of the old ,germans are most picturesquely and minutely set forth4#bc ,the ancient province of ,alsace1 where forty-two varieties of pts and countless varieties of cakes have been in use for several centuries1 has ever been noted for the excellence of its cooks and its fondness for good cheer4 ,in the tenth century ,bishop ,uthon of ,strassburg viewed with alarm the table excesses of the priests of his diocese1 which he attempted to check by establishing monastic schools4 ,in the fourteenth century1 on the other hand1 ,bishop de ,lyne1 who was termed ,kappen-,esser1 was charged with gross intemperance by the clergy1 who averred he thought only of the pleasures of the table--gul ebrietatique deditus--and that he was unable to hold morning audiences without having previously partaken of a rich soup and a fat capon4 ,dating from early times1 ,alsace became known as the wine-cellar1 granary1 and larder of the surrounding countries--a paradise and a garden eminently favourable for good living4 ,charles ,grard has proved the local ,dumas1 and his volume1 besides its erudite presentation of the resources and olden customs of the country1 contains many interesting gastronomical anecdotes1 such as ,favourite dishes of celebrated personages1 ,influence of a ,rhein carp on a financier of the school of ,fouquet1 ,frying1 its nature and effect on manners1 etc4 ,assuredly should a nation be credited with a natural aptitude for gastronomy which in the early part of #agjj could devise an omelette of brook-trout 7,forellen ,eyerkuchen7 and cold pts of trout 7,forellen ,kalte ,pasteten71 to say nothing of a certain pt of fish 7,pt de langues de carpes et foies de lottes7 composed of the tongues of carp1 eels' livers1 and the tails of crawfish--the invention of a ,strassburg ,koch1 which he served to the ,cardinal de ,rohan1 and which ,m4 ,grard defines as the supreme limit of epularly eminence4 ,the researches of ,m4 ,grard place the national dish1 ,sauerkraut1 as an invention dating from beyond the middle ages and proclaim its origin as distinctly ,alsatian4 ,the date of the frog's leap into the frying-pan he places in the year #abhj1 and specifies ,alsace as the discoverer of his edible qualities4 ,the potage bisque or bisque d'crevisses has long been known to the epicures of the province1 while the merits of stuffed crabs were pointed out in the ,oberrheinisches ,koch-,buch of ,frau ,sprlin1 wife of a ,protestant minister of ,mulhausen4 ,among the strange customs described is that appertaining to the olden festival called ,hirztag1 at which time women and maids alone had the right to appear in the inns and liquid dispensaries and avail themselves of the privileges extended to men in eating and drinking4 ,on these occasions any of the male sex who was brave enough to appear was seized1 stripped of his hat and coat1 and obliged to pay forfeit by a round of wine--a usage thus described by the poet ,moscherosch3 ,spitze ,schue und ,knpflein dran1 ,die ,frau ist ,meister und nicht der ,mann4 7,with jaunty button'd and pointed shoe1 ,gretschen will riot it over you47 ,no work on cookery in the ,german language1 it is true1 has obtained a great reputation outside of its own country4 ,but although the ,teuton is a midday diner1 a custom that must prove inimical to gastronomical perfection and thereby the highest social evolution1 it were extremely unjust to charge him with a lack of understanding in eating4 ,on the contrary1 no one1 not even the ,gaul1 enjoys eating and drinking more than he1 or eats and drinks amid pleasanter surroundings during a large portion of the year4 ,the open-air restaurants and beer-gardens are a feature1 and a most delightful feature1 of ,german life4 ,in the shaded bowers of the ,wirthshaus1 under the umbrage of horse-chestnuts and limes1 to the plash of fountains in suburban ,gasthof gardens1 amid the consonance of viols and reeds in the attractive temples of ,gambrinus1 do the ,germans voice the refrain1 ,isz1 trink1 sei frhlich hier auf ,erd'1 ,und denk nicht dass es besser wird4 7,eat1 drink1 be merry1 seize the present hour1 ,deem not the future holds a fairer flower47 ,it must not be forgotten that in the course of time the cookery of every nation gradually becomes complementary to the national beverages4 ,conversant with the popular drinks of a people1 one may promptly form an opinion of their alimentation and characteristics4 ,the cookery of ,germany has become subservient to1 and1 as it were1 revolves around ,mnchner and ,pilsener1 ,hochheimer and ,deidesheimer4 ,if1 therefore1 one cannot appreciate its innumerable brews and the juices of the ,riesling and the ,traminer1 its forms of nutrition will naturally prove distasteful1 in the same manner that the virtues of ,french entres would be found wanting if deprived of the ruby pressings of the ,sauvignon and ,pinot4 ,the rosy ,schweinerippchen1 after its bath in saltpetre1 and also ,sauerkraut would be impossible without their syncretic accompaniment1 beer or a ,german white wine2 and it is only since the general use of beer in the ,united ,states that the last-named dish1 from being considered a vulgar one has become so popular1 notwithstanding it is usually but a shade of its original as one knows it in its own home4 ,the same may be said of sausages1 in the compounding of which the ,teuton is master of the world4 ,different nations1 like different individuals1 enjoy things in their own way1 and who shall determine whether the ,gaul or the ,teuton makes the most of the fleeting hour1 which necessarily includes the pleasures attendant upon the daily nourishment of man8 ,who that has visited the land of the three fluvial graces--the ,rhein1 the ,neckar1 and the ,donau--does not retain pleasant memories of some native dish partaken of amid picturesque surroundings8--a ,hasenbraten1 a ,pfannkuchen1 a duck1 a ,bockwurst1 ,knackwurst1 or a ,wienerwrstle that fairly melts in one's mouth4 ,how lovely those trout which were served at the ,wolfsbrunnen at ,heidelberg1 which you savoured in the cool of the evening after seeing them caught fresh from the spring itself6 ,the ,sptzle and ,nudeln and sour sauce1 too1 which rival the national dish of ,italy2 the veal cutlets and sautd potatoes1 which one never meets as perfect as in southern ,germany1 and that attain their supreme excellence in a summer ,gasthof garden1 must likewise ever be held in grateful remembrance4 ,how golden the landscape looked through your ,rhein wine ,rmer1 how drowsily the clouds floated over the ,odenwald1 and how delightfully the evening breeze awoke the responsive chords of the beeches6 ,in whatever direction one may turn1 there is always a haven for the hungry and the thirsty4 ,no hill is too high1 no valley too remote for its font of refreshment1 where the tap is invariably fresh and the shrine of more substantial restoration is seldom to be despised4 ,on every hand one may find the welcome of an inn1 as hearty as ,shenstone's1 and1 where the nature of the surroundings will allow1 one may readily verify the lines of the old poet3 ,nun kommt der grne ,berg wo selbsten auch nichts fehlt1 ,von dem was das ,gemth ermuntert und erfreuet2 ,deshalb wird er auch vielfltiglich erwhlet1 ,er hat den schnsten ,stof zur grsten ,frhlichkeit4 7,well stored with all that gladd'neth man1 ,the green hill rises1 cool and fair2 ,and many a pilgrim1 spent and wan1 ,doth quaff from font of ,mnchner there47 ,clearly1 the ,gemthlichkeit of the ,germans1 a word for which an equivalent scarcely exists in any other language1 may be traced to the national beverages and an alimentation with which they harmonise--with golden opportunities to cultivate it in the ,wirthshaus1 ,gasthof1 restaurant1 and beer-garden4 ,in many of the larger restaurants and beer-gardens which are conducted on a scale that is well defined by the favourite term1 kolossal1 the great ,speisekarte1 ornately decorated and rubricated in the olden style1 is grandly in evidence4 ,a typical index to good cheer may be taken from almost any of the vast breweries of ,munich1 with their long lists of ,braten1 ,wildpret1 ,pfannengerichte1 ,eierspeisen1 ,salat and ,compots4 ,on some of these appears an epitome of the corps of assistants1 including the white-aproned waitresses with their names and characteristics1 and the great array of help that is necessary to slake the thirst and appease the hunger of a ,german multitude4 ,the conclusion of the ,speisekarte of the ,lwenbrukeller may be cited as an example3 ,gesammt-,personal der ,restauration ,lwenbrukeller ,mnchen ,concert-,saal oder ,garten #a ,ursula1 die ,oberkellnerin1 #ahbd #b ,therese1 die ,schwarze1 #h #c ,grethi1 die ,dicke1 #ac #d ,marie1 die ,schwarze #e ,marie1 die ,tirolerin1 #ag #f ,anna1 die ,schwiegermutter1 #ac #g ,gertraud1 die ,schlanke1 #i #h ,leni1 die ,durstige1 #g #i ,marie1 #f #aj ,marie1 die ,dicke1 #f #aa ,pepi #ab ,lina #ac ,kathi1 die ,schwabingerin #ad ,marie1 die ,freundliche #ae ,therese #af ,marie1 die ,schne #ag ,veronika #ah ,anna1 die ,stille #ai ,babette #bj ,anna1 die ,brave #ba ,emilie1 die ,stramme #bb ,marie1 die ,schwbin #bc ,rschen #bd ,hildegard #be ,marie1 die ,blonde ,gallerie #bf ,marie1 die ,schwarze #bg ,emma #bh ,elise ,i4 ,nebensaal #bi ,betty #cj ,klara #ca ,thekla--,spiel oder #a ,thurmzimmer #cb ,paula #cc ,amanda ,,ii4 ,nebensaal #cd ,lucie #ce ,rosa #cf ,hulda ,lwenterrasse #cg ,emmy #ch ,louise #ci ,martha untere ,terrasse #dj ,gusti #da ,ccilie #db ,hanna obere ,terrasse #dc ,adelheid #dd ,grethi1 die ,kleine #de ,therese1 die ,schwarze #df ,elise1 die ,groe #dg ,anna1 die ,schlanke #dh ,cenzi1 die ,hbsche #di ,toni1 die ,sanfte #ej ,marie1 die ,dicke #ej ,kellnerinnen 99 99 99 99 99 #a ,geschftsfhrer #a erster ,cassier #b zweite ,cassiere #b ,ceremoniers #b ,billeteurs1 #b ,controleurs #a ,programm-,verkufer #d ,postkarten-,verkufer #a ,garderobier #b ,garderobe-,cassiere #h ,garderobe-,gehilfen #a ,velociped-,aufbewahrer #a erster ,metzger #b zweiter ,metzger #a ,lehrjunge 7,piccolo7 #f ,schenkkassiere #f ,einschenker #a ,hausmeister #a ,hausschreiner #a ,monteur fr electrische ,beleuchtung #a ,hausgrtner #a ,hausknecht 7,bieraufzieher7 #a ,laufbursche #b ,besteckputzer #a ,buchhalterin und #a ,buffetdame #d ,buffetdamen #a erste und #a zweite ,kchenbeschlieerin #a ,weizeugbeschlieerin #a ,ober-,kchin 7chef de cuisine7 #a erste ,kchin 7fr ,braten1 ,geflgel u4 ,wildpret7 #a zweite ,kchin 7fr ,pfannengerichte u4 ,ragouts7 #a dritte ,kchin 7fr ,gemse und ,eierspeisen7 #a vierte ,kchin 7fr ,spie- und ,rostbraterei7 #d ,kochpraktikantinnen 7,kochfrulein7 #a erste und #a zweite ,kchenmagd #a ,kupferputzerin #a ,mdchen fr ,speiseaufzug im ,brustbel #a ,mdchen fr ,speiseaufzug im groen ,saal #a ,mdchen f4 ,speiseaufzug f4 ,gallerie u4 ,nebensaal #c ,biermdchen #a ,zimmermdchen #a ,waschmagd #f ,hausmgde #ace ,personen ,the cookery of ,germany is1 on the whole1 both appetising and wholesome4 ,in the better class of restaurants and hotels it has absorbed many modes of preparation from ,france1 combining these with its own4 ,where cookery has stood still in the latter country1 it has advanced in the former2 and one may dine as well1 perhaps1 in many of its smaller towns as in most provincial hostelries beyond its borders4 ,its private cookery remains more distinct and preserves its local flavour4 ,if the ,french are more successful with the chicken1 the ,germans may be relied upon to do full justice to the goose and duck4 ,nowhere does the fowl which saved ,rome rise to the sublime heights that it does in the district of the ,vosges1 not only as a roast with ,compot1 but in its more ethereal perfection--the goose-liver ,pastete1 or pt de foie gras4 ,if one desires a roast goose after the ,german mode1 let him proceed after the following manner3 ,rub a young dressed goose overnight with salt1 pepper1 sage1 thyme1 and sweet marjoram inside and out2 in the morning prepare a dressing as follows--a large handful of stoned raisins and ,zante currants1 bread crumbs1 a couple of sour apples chopped fine1 and one mealy potato1 with butter mixed in1 and all well rolled together1 but put no spices in the dressing4 ,for the gravy1 boil the giblets in a little water and mash the liver in a spoonful of flour1 chop the gizzard1 stir these in the liquid they were boiled in1 add it to the gravy in the dripping-pan1 sprinkle in a little thyme1 sage1 and sweet marjoram1 and it is done4 ,serve the gravy separately4 ,when cooked and served1 garnish with sliced lemons and parsley4 ,a ,compot of some kind1 like ,hagenmark1 cherries with ,kirsch1 or even applesauce1 if not too tart1 should complete the dish4 ,the duck may be similarly treated2 but a goose or duck l',allemande would scarcely meet with favour in ,france1 where the rules are laid down so strictly that even a slight deviation from accepted canons would be met by a hiss from parquet and gallery alike4 ,thus the ,almanach des ,gourmands1 in speaking of the young wild duck1 or albran1 which in ,october becomes a canardeau and in ,november a canard1 mentions1 among various ways of preparing it1 that of serving it with turnips1 adding that this honour belongs more strictly to monsieur son pre4 ,this gastronomic slip--that of serving turnips with a wild duck--on the part of ,la ,reynire1 who is rarely caught napping in anything relating to foods or food preparations1 aroused the ire of ,savarin1 who protests against it in these vigorous words3 ,the adjunction of such a vegetable as this to this noble game would be for a young wild duck an improper and even injurious proceeding1 a monstrous alliance1 a dishonourable degradation4 ,on the other hand1 ,savarin himself was roundly denounced by ,m4 de ,courchamps for assigning a truffled turkey a place among the roasts instead of among the large pieces of the first service4 ,this culinary heresy1 he states1 has lessened the esteem in which ,m4 ,brillat-,savarin has been held in other respects1 and seriously hurt the reputation of his book4 ,the ethics of gastronomy1 it will be seen1 are as marked as those of society1 and the arrangement of a bill of fare calls for as much finesse as do the functions of a chaperon4 ,while the pt de foie gras is a dish of modern times1 the ancients nevertheless knew the secret of enlarging the liver of the goose2 but with the relapse into barbarism the secret became lost1 to remain undiscovered until the beginning of the seventeenth century4 ,alsace is the chosen home of the goose1 and this fowl has rendered its capital more celebrated than the siege of #ahgj or the marvellous faade and clock of its ,mnster4 ,my idea of heaven1 said the ,rev4 ,sydney ,smith1 referring to the ,strassburg product1 is eating foies gras to the sound of trumpets6 ,for although the pt is produced in numerous localities on the ,continent1 in no other place does it attain the superlative bloom and delicacy that it does in the more important manufactories of the historic city on the ,ill4 ,to think of ,strassburg is to think of ,doyen and his confrres and their incomparable productions1 around which rise the ,gothic glories of the medival fane1 the quaintly gabled houses embellished by the craft of the wood-carver1 the statues of ,gutenberg and ,kleber1 and the town's great girdles of fortifications and inner ramparts4 ,it is said the pt de foie gras is the invention of a ,norman cook named ,close1 who was in the employ of the ,marchal de ,contades1 military commandant of the province from #agfb to #aghh4 ,on the retirement of the marchal1 his cook remained in ,strassburg1 and began the manufacture of the dish which had rendered the table of his employer famous4 ,there were truffles in the ,wasgenwald1 with trained dogs to hunt them2 the goose everywhere stood ready for sacrifice2 while the near-by vineyards of ,neuwiller1 ,morsbrunn1 and ,westhausen contributed their wines in abundance as its fluid concomitant4 ,but the pt did not reach its highest excellence until some time afterwards1 when ,doyen1 a pastry-cook of great genius1 already celebrated for his chaussons of veal and inimitable apple-puffs1 substituted the blacker1 larger1 and more fragrant truffle of ,prigord1 adding a bouquet-garni composed of numerous spices4 ,upon the proper blending of these depends to a large extent the success of the dish1 just as the special flavour of a brand of champagne results from the precise adjustment of its liqueur4 ,all through ,alsace1 wherever ponds or streams exist1 may be seen daily vast flocks of geese during the summer and autumn1 screaming1 splashing1 and diving in the water4 ,the landscape is white with them1 and the plain resounds with their clamour4 ,each flock1 which often numbers a thousand1 has its goose-herd and goose-dog4 ,at dawn the herder sounds his reveille1 beginning to assemble his charges from the most remote part of the village or hamlet4 ,these take their place in the procession of their own accord1 until the ranks are complete1 and they eagerly wend their way to the coveted goal4 ,here they remain until evening1 when1 at a summons from the herder1 the return journey is accomplished1 each individual flock leaving the phalanx on arriving near its home4 ,less idyllic is the life of the town goose1 when large ponds and succulent herbage are not readily accessible1 the birds being confined in yards where1 in place of a daily round of bathing and gossiping1 they are compelled to watch the flight of the storks overhead and mark the monotonous passing of the hours as they are tolled from the ,rathhaus tower4 ,nearly every other house or yard of the poorer classes has its geese1 the young fowls alone being utilised for their livers4 ,in late ,october or early ,november the fattening begins1 a process lasting usually from two to three weeks1 the prized livers--the true golden egg of the bird of ,st4 ,michael--then weighing from two to three pounds4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,bird ,,of ,,st4 ,,michael ,from the etching by ,birket-,foster1 ,r4,a4 ,the humanitarian will protest against the cruelty of gorging the fowl to repletion1 depriving it of drink1 and imprisoning it in close cages to gratify the voracity of man4 ,yet it must be admitted that hitherto everything possible to the maintenance of the health and pleasure of the subject has been lavishly supplied1 and that a brief span at most would elapse ere time must claim its victim4 ,the fox and the goose have always been closely associated1 and what applies to one may well apply to the other4 ,certainly1 reasons ,bulwer1 in the chase itself all my sympathies are on the side of the fox4 ,but if all individuals are to give way to the happiness of the greatest number1 we must set off against the painful fate of the fox the pleasurable sensation in the breasts of numbers which his fate has the honourable privilege to excite4 ,without the inconveniences that the ,strassburg goose is compelled to undergo in behalf of the metamorphosis of its liver1 the list of plats de prdilection were shorn of one of its greatest attractions1 and a city now of world-wide fame must soon drag out a monotonous existence and be forgotten unless by the student of architecture--a fact duly set forth in the following stanza3 ,strasbourg tire vanit ,de ses pts de foie2 ,cette superbe cit ,ne doit sa prosprit ,qu'aux oies6 7,can roasted ,philomel a liver ,fit for a pie produce8-- ,fat pies that on the ,rhein's sweet river ,fair ,strassburg bakes4 ,pray1 who's the giver8 ,a goose67#be ,one should taste a pt in ,strassburg itself on a crisp ,november day1 after a protracted stroll through the sleepy town4 ,then one may saunter anew through its medival streets and labyrinthine corridors to view the ,mnster whose gargoyles glower so weirdly in the moonlight1 ere pausing at the ,luxhof or the ,spaten1 where cool fountains of ,mnchner continually flow4 ,that the pt de foie gras is a factor of gout and a prolific cause of indigestion1 as is commonly asserted1 is true to the same extent that holds good with many other viands when inordinately indulged in or partaken of too frequently4 ,it was never intended to be eaten by the terrine1 and much also depends upon its freshness and the source of its manufacture4 ,a generous slice of a fresh authentic ,strassburg pt1 eaten with bread1 need hold no terrors for a healthy digestion1 or prove other than a source of the most delightsome recollections4 ,savouring it1 one may again summon the surroundings of its native land--the verdant meads of the ,alsace plain1 the herder tending his argent flocks1 the soft contours of the ,vosges outlined against the distant sky4 ,but the alimentary resources of ,germany are nowhere revealed to greater advantage than in the innumerable forms of the sausage1 and it may well be questioned whether the songs of the ,lorelei are not1 after all1 inspired by the perfection of this product1 rather than called forth by the beauties of the ,lurlenberg or the merits of the vineyards of the ,rheingau4 ,to become a connoisseur of sausages in all their protean phases is no simple task4 ,only a ,german may analyse intelligently all the species and varieties1 from the huge ,cervelat of ,braunschweig and goose-liver ,trffelwurst of ,strassburg to the ,salamis of ,gotha and ,blutwurst of ,schwaben4 ,and as the sausage is fashioned with a special view to its harmonious combination with beer1 it is self-evident that one must be a beer-drinker of experience in order to pronounce upon the virtues of a given kind4 ,wurst and ,durst1 ,uhland long since pointed out1 not only rhyme1 but belong together in a material way4 ,but by this he in no wise implied that one might choose a variety at random1 with no thought of consonance as regards its liquid accompaniment1 or even that one should be unmindful of climatic conditions4 ,thus the variety that blends best with the dark1 potent ,gerstensaft of ,nrnberg as one quaffs it in great ,seidels thick with its head of creamy foam in the ,mohrenkeller1 or in cool ,steins in the ,bratwurst-,glcklein1 would be entirely out of place as a complement to the amber ,pilsener of ,austria1 the ,weiss beer of ,berlin1 or even the many malt extracts of ,wrttemberg4 ,it is likewise equally easy to understand that a particular sausage which might appeal to one in ,hanover might be utterly incongruous to the climate of the ,elbe or the ,neckarthal4 ,the delicate ,bockwurst1 composed of veal and pork1 should be used with ,bock beer1 for which it was especially designed4 ,the juicy ,knackwurst1 with its flavour of garlic1 which belongs to the family of the ,frankfurt and ,wienerwurst1 is eminently worthy its exalted place as a garnish to ,sauerkraut1 where the ,mettwurst and the ,schwartenmagen would sound a discordant note4 ,to determine the precise kind that should be taken with the ,mnchner ,hof-,bru1 as it is dispensed in the ,caf and ,garten of the ,hotel ,royal at ,stuttgart1 where the regal beer of ,munich reaches its apotheosis1 would require a more extended experience than might be contributed by the writer4 ,a ,knackwurst1 possibly1 may be suggested during the summer1 and a ,bratwurst in winter4 ,and yet this would depend largely upon the hour of the evening1 as well as on the recommendations of the ,kellnerin4 ,not more dissimilar are the hams of the thick-jowled swine of ,westphalia and those of the long-snouted brindled hogs of ,rothenburg an der ,tauber1 than are the various sausages of different districts4 ,indeed1 with the sausage alone ,germany might form a rampart round the world1 and float a navy upon her daily tide of beer4 ,of the innumerable varieties1 the well-known ,cervelat is the largest1 and of these the most colossal come from ,braunschweig1 which also produces the finest ,knack-and ,zungenwrste1 the finest truffled geese-liver as well as calves'-liver sausages coming from ,strassburg4 ,although the ,plockwurst1 the diminutive ,wienerbrhwrstchen1 the tiny ,lbecker ,saucisschen1 the ,schlackwurst1 and very many other kinds are not included in the subjoined list relating to this specialty1 its perusal will be found of absorbing interest by the connoisseur1 and its study remind the too unobservant traveller who has sojourned in ,germany of1 alas6 how many neglected opportunities4 ,the quotations are given in marks and kilograms1 the mark equalling twenty-five cents and the kilogram being equivalent to a little over two pounds4 ,the record being that of a north-,german shop1 southern ,germany is only meagrely represented1 and the list sounds its own praises too well to call for comment3 ,preis ,verzeichniss4 ,per ,kilo4 ,braunschweiger4 ,m4 ,pf4 ,cervelatwurst #d4 ,mettwurst #c4 #fj ,trffelleberwurst #d4 ,sardellenleberwurst #c4 #fj ,feine ,leberwurst #c4 ,zungenblutwurst #c4 #bj ,blutwurst1 geruchert #b4 #dj ,frische ,sulze in ,blase ,blut- und ,leberwrste1 ,stck #be ,gothaer4 ,cervelatwurst ,i #c4 #fj ,,ii homopatische ,grobschnitt ,salamis #d4 ,mortadella gekocht #d4 ,gttinger4 ,mettwurst ,colmar4 ,gnselebertrffelwurst #g ,gothaer4 ,feine ,leberwurst1 geruchert #c4 #fj ,knackwrste1 ,paar #ce ,jagdwrste #fe ,zungenblutwurst #c4 #bj ,blutwurst #b4 #hj ,paaszslze #c4 #fj ,thringer4 ,cervelatwurst ,schwartenmagen #b4 #hj ,blutwurst1 frische1 haussch #b4 #hj ,knackwrste1 ,paar #dj ,westflischer4 ,schinkenroulade #d4 ,strassburger4 ,gnselebertrffelwurst #g4 ,kalbslebertrffelwurst #d4 ,salamis di ,verona ,mortadella di ,bologna ,wiener4 ,selchwrstchen1 ,paar #be ,saucisschen #ac ,frankfurter4 ,bratwrste1 ,paar #de ,janer'sche4 ,bratwrste1 ,paar #de ,regensburger4 ,wurst1 ,paar ,berliner4 ,erbswurst1 ,stck #fe ,schomberger4 ,delikatesswrstchen ,how they shine in their silken skins1 these triumphs of the ,metzgerei1 seen through the plate-glass of a ,delikatessen shop--ebon and bronze1 russet and red1 blonde and grey1 mottled and veined1 of all hues and all sizes3 long and slender1 plump and fat1 curved like a crescent1 round-barrelled and egg-shaped1 as if their juices and spices were eager to be set free2 some that gain in succulence by time2 others that1 like the rose1 have but their hour in which to be plucked4 ,an essentially south-,german dish is the ,metzelsuppe--the bouillabaisse of ,swabia--in which the sausage plays an important role1 but which1 to be appreciated1 requires an essentially ,german taste as well as a digestion without limit4 ,this consists of several preparations of freshly killed pork1 including soup1 bacon1 and sausages with ,sauerkraut1 the sausages usually being the ,leber and the ,blutwurst4 ,it has found its ,thackeray in ,uhland1 whose poem has become a classic1 although1 with the possible exception of the bacon and ,sauerkraut1 the alien will find the poem preferable to the dish4 ,with a choice of a different soup for every day in the year1 the ,german does not lack for variety in the stepping-stone of the dinner4 ,with all of these the stranger may not be in sympathy1 and in none of them will he find the equal1 as an all-round preface to the principal repast1 of a perfect ,julienne4 ,but the potato soup1 the native pot-au-feu1 and even the soup in which beer is an important ingredient1 have their merits when well prepared4 ,nor is the boiled beef with horseradish sauce1 which usually follows the soup1 to be despised1 notably in warm weather1 when rich and heavy viands cloy4 ,one would be equally lacking in appreciation were he to lose sight of another dish we owe to ,germany1 the marinirte1 or sour-spiced herring--that offset to ,katzenjammer and noon-restorer of a jaded appetite and a parched tongue4 ,the ,schmierkse1 or whey-cheese1 when cream is employed in its composition and the green of fresh chives enters as an adjunct to please the eye and the palate1 surely requires no praises1 whatever may be said to the contrary of the variety whose very name one thinks of in a whisper4 ,such dishes as ,szegediner ,schwein's ,goulash mit ,sauerkraut1 ,paprica ,schnitzel mit ,ungarischem ,kraut1 and ,ungarisches ,goulash mit ,sptzle--triumphs of the ,hungarian and ,viennese ,kochkunst--seldom turn out satisfactory in alien hands4 ,the ,sptzle and ,nudel are two farinaceous dishes that also call for a native cook to serve in perfection4 ,the ,sptzle is of south-,german origin1 and tastes best when it flanks a viand with a tart sauce and has a ,rhein wine to keep it company4 ,this observation applies more strictly to its native home1 the virtues of ,german dishes and ,german cigars being most apparent amid their natural atmosphere4 ,indeed1 who shall say that the ,pfarrer von ,kirchfeld or the colourful strains of ,sataniel would seem the same if transported oversea8 ,climate1 the hour1 the environment--all the conditions of the entourage exercise a marked influence on many things1 especially on the pleasures of taste4 ,the ,zeller that seems so delicious with the chicken in a south-,german restaurant is apt to prove a delusion elsewhere2 and even the best of ,affenthaler and ,assmanshuser1 of which one may retain a pleasant remembrance1 must fade before a good ,bordeaux4 ,the beer of ,germany1 when properly cared for and when allowed to rush swiftly from the wood1 alone preserves a large portion of its delicious tonical freshness wherever partaken of4 ,like an omelette souffl1 beer has its moment1 and once started towards the ,seidel or ,stein1 its flow should be as uninterrupted as the course of a mountain brook that1 with music and song and freighted with coolness1 comes dancing down from the distant hills to slake the thirst of the vale below4 ,of game1 the hare and the partridge have always been held in great esteem by the ,germans2 and while the native ,rebhuhn may not compare with our own prince of feathered game-birds1 the ruffed grouse1 the ,german hare has unquestionable merits when prepared as the favourite ,hasenbraten1 ,hasenpfeffer1 and ,hasenrcken gespickt with ,sahnen sauce4 ,even ,goethe sounds a ,hoch6 when he thinks of the game he has secured1 and smacks his lips in anticipation of its appearance on the table4#bf ,the mysteries of the sandwich in all its possibilities are unknown to ,germany4 ,but amends are made by the attractions of the ,kalter ,aufschnitt which takes its place1 where slices of veal are surrounded by slices of ,cervelat1 ham1 and tongue1 and thin cuts of ,leberwurst with pickles and hard-boiled eggs cut in rounds to form a frame1 and rye bread and mustard discretion4 ,as for the ,kuchen--light1 wholesome1 and inviting--its forms are legion1 though these belong more strictly to the supper-table or to that phase of feminine entertainment termed ,the ,coffee4 ,the common and often excessive use of the caraway-seed in cakes and breadstuffs is nevertheless to be deplored1 however great its merits as a carminative4 ,dumas tells the story of the excellent cake called madeleine1 an entremets which all who have been in ,france will remember4 ,is it a flower of the ,vosges1 indigenous to ,alsace1 that has been transplanted across the border8--it must have been the invention of the ,german ,kuchenkunst4 ,this is the account of the madeleine as it appears in the ,grand ,dictionnaire de ,cuisine3 ,a tourist-friend who was at ,strassburg1 and who started out on his travels a little late1 expecting to reach the next village before dark1 was unsuccessful in finding a shelter until nearly midnight1 when he perceived the spire of a distant church1 and soon afterwards the welcome rays of a light that seemed to emerge from some subterranean abode4 ,knocking at the door1 a gruff voice demanded3 ',who is it1 and what do you want8' ',i am a traveller1 weary and worn1 and well-nigh starved4 ,for heaven's sake1 let me in4' ,with this the door was unbarred by a man of savage aspect whose hair and beard were covered with flour1 and who was naked to the waist4 ',come in1 and make haste1' he said in a cavernous voice2 and a large room was disclosed to the traveller the interior of which was lighted by the fires of an immense oven4 ,the door was then re-barred by the forbidding-looking occupant4 ',pardon1 ,monsieur1' said the traveller1 little at ease4 ',i have just completed sixteen or eighteen leagues with scarcely a mouthful2 cannot ,i buy something to appease my hunger1 and have a couch to lie on8' ',i have only my own bed1' replied the man1 in his gruff voice2 'as to something to eat1 that is not wanting--it remains to be seen if it will please you4' ,and opening a cupboard1 he produced a basket containing a dozen or so of oval-shaped cakes of a fine golden hue4 ',try these1' he said to the traveller1 'and tell me what you think of them4' ,when the basket was emptied1 he asked1 ',what do you think of my madeleines8' ',something to drink first1' muttered the traveller in a strangled voice4 ,the cupboard was opened anew1 and uncorking a bottle covered with dust1 the baker filled two glasses1 passing one to the stranger4 ',drink1' he said2 ',i don't wish my cakes to choke you4' ,the glass was emptied at a draught1 when the visitor passed it to be refilled1--it was an excellent ,bordeaux4 ',your health1 my friend2 you have given me one of the most delicious repasts that ,i have ever had4 ,but tell me what do you call these lovely cakes8' ',what6 don't you know the madeleines of ,commercy8' ',you mean to say ,i am at ,commercy8' ',yes1 and1 without knowing it1 you have eaten the best cakes in the world4' ,se non vero ben trovato--the madeleine still remains to gladden the traveller4 ,they bring it now in little boxes of a dozen--flat on the top and grooved like a shell underneath1 the colour a rich golden brown--as the train halts for a moment at the town on the ,meuse where ,cardinal de ,retz wrote his memoirs4 ,one of the earliest of ,german cook-books1 published at ,strassburg in #aeaf1 and now of the utmost rarity1 bears for its title ,kuchenmeisterey1 or the mastery of cake-making4 ,perchance were one to turn its faded ,gothic leaves1 some forgotten master-stroke of the baker might reveal itself1 to vie with the madeleine in popularity and add to the already endless list of farinaceous ,leckerbissen and ,frauenessen1 wherein the ,germans have no superiors4 ,the story of the madeleine suggests that of the ,vienna roll1 which1 it is said1 owes its origin to the investment of ,vienna by the ,turks4 ,during the protracted siege of the city1 when the town had become almost reduced to starvation and the position of the enemy was unknown1 a baker was making his last batch of bread4 ,his little son1 who had been amusing himself with his marbles and drum1 had gone to bed1 leaving a marble on the drum-head4 ,the baker kept on with his baking and attending to his ovens1 sitting down between times to meditate on his probable fate when the final loaf was gone1 and gleaming cangiars and ferocious janizaries had begun their work of carnage4 ,suddenly his attentive ear was arrested by an unaccustomed vibratory sound proceeding from the drum1 while his eye perceived a continuous dancing movement of the marble4 ,soon it became apparent to him that the vibration was caused by forces working on the fortifications without--the steady pounding of mattock and pickaxe--and that the undermining of the walls had begun almost at his door4 ,at once his loaves were forgotten1 and1 hastening to spread the alarm1 the enemy was attacked unawares and successfully routed4 ,the following day the baker was summoned before the emperor4 ,what reward do you claim for your services8--you have saved the city1 said the emperor4 ,i would serve the bread for the palace1 replied the artist of the loaves1 and ,i would have my rolls shaped like the ,crescent we have conquered4 ,a favourite convivial song of the ,fatherland1 with its rollicking strain1 may not be omitted from a ,german ,speisekarte4 ,the words are by a former minister of education1 von ,muehler1 of ,prussia2 the music that of the dance ,la ,madrilena4 ,it should be sung in chorus and led by one who is light on his feet and a master of the side-step1 with the sonorous instrumentation of viols and horns to lend it additional spirit and swing3 ,,bedenklichkeiten 7,heinrich von ,muehler1 #ahdb4 ,bis #ahgb ,preussischer ,cultusminister47 ,illustration3 ,munter4 ,spanischer ,tanz3 ,la ,madrilena4 #a4 ,grad' aus dem ,wirthshaus nun komm' ich her-aus2444 ,stra-sse1 wie wun-der-lich siehst du mir aus6444 ,rech-ter ,hand1 lin-ker ,hand1 bei-des ver-tauscht3 ,stra-sse1 ich mer-ke wohl1 du bist be-rauscht6 #b4 ,was fr ein schief ,gesicht1 ,mond1 machst denn du8 ,ein ,au-ge hat er auf1 eins hat er zu8444 ,du wirst be-trun-ken sein1 das seh' ich hell3444 ,sch-me dich1 schme dich1 al-ter ,ge-sell6 #c4 ,und die ,la-ter-nen erst1 was muss ich sehn6 ,die kn-nen al-le nicht gra-de mehr stehn2444 ,wa-ckeln und fa-ckeln die ,kreuz und die ,quer3444 ,schei-nen be-trun-ken mir al-le-sammt schwer6 #d4 ,al-les im ,stur-me rings1 ,gro-sses und ,klein2 ,wag' ich dar-un-ter mich1 nch-tern al-lein8444 ,das scheint be-denk-lich mir ein ,wa-ge-stck6 ,da geh' ich lie-ber in's ,wirthshaus zu-rck6 ,while the ,germans have not yet adopted applesauce with green goose or cranberries with turkey1 no fault can be found with their admirable choice of the ,compot in general as an accessory and grace-note to the roast4 ,one may even forgive them the taste which permits them to serve the noted hams of ,westphalia uncooked1 in view of the excellence of their beer1 their admirable ,kuchen1 and the merits of their rolls and sweets4 ,besides cakes innumerable1 the larder of the ,hausfrau fairly groans with ,compots1 some form of which is invariably served with roast meats1 poultry1 or game4 ,and inasmuch as woman in ,germany is created for the special purpose of ministering to the comforts1 the tastes1 and the selfish wishes of man1 independent of her own inclinations1 it may be assumed that her natural fondness for sweets is shared equally by the opposite sex4 ,one may or may not be impressed with the merits of the ,german ,kochkunst in all its branches1 which perhaps requires a native or a seasoned taste to be estimated at its just and proper worth4 ,but that it comports with those whom it chiefly concerns1 and that it is appreciated by all true sons of the ,fatherland1 will admit of little doubt when one considers the national ,gemthlichkeit1 or views the profound deliberation that the perusal of a ,speisekarte always evokes from the ,gast1 the ,wirth1 and the ,herr ,oberkellner4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,promenade ,,nutritive ,frontispiece of ,le ,gastronome ,franais 7#ahbh7 ,illustration ,,the ,,school ,,of ,,savarin ,depuis longtemps j'avais un mot dire de ,brillat-,savarin4 ,cette figure1 souriante plutt que riante1 ce demi-ventre1 cet esprit et cet estomac de bon ton1 me tentait4 ,,charles ,,monselet4 ,most noted of literary tributes to the table is that of ,brillat-,savarin1 who has discoursed on gastronomy with all the knowledge and discursiveness1 with all the verve and raciness displayed by ,ninon de l',enclos in descanting on love in her letters to the ,marquis de ,svign4 ,he is at once the corypheus of good cheer and its most refined exponent4 ,few subjects are as difficult to treat without grossness as those relating to the gratification of the appetite1 the pleasures of eating and drinking1 which he has handled with such felicitous skill4 ,accompanying him along his alluring ambages1 whose aisles are redolent of truffles and vol-au-vents in lieu of balsams and flowers1 all other arts appear secondary to that of gastronomy2 for through it alone1 it becomes obviously manifest1 may its sister arts receive their proper inspiration and man attain that hygienic beatitude which is essential to the greatest creative genius4 ,whether he was as accomplished in reality as he appears upon the printed page1 whether his practice was equal to his theory1--a question some of his contemporaries have disputed1--is of trivial moment in view of the abiding attractiveness of the ,physiologie du ,got4 ,in his essay the distinction of a gourmand and a gourmet was first distinctly set forth1 and throughout its length and breadth the topic is discussed with the dexterity that the author would observe in the preparation of his favourite fondue4 ,rarely has a subject found a writer whose qualities so eminently fitted him for its elaboration4 ,with a touch light as gossamer1 he has run the entire gamut of taste1 investing his theme with new and subtle harmonies4 ,the pheasant and the turkey have gained in savour since he has passed them under review1 and the truffle derived an added flavour through the sixth ,meditation4 ,in viewing the portrait of ,savarin1 we see before us a man of imposing presence1 full-faced and florid1 large1 massive1 robust1 with bright eyes1 rounded chin1 and sensuous mouth4 ,the high1 broad forehead and protuberances above the eyebrows denote the reasoning and imaginative mind1 while the full nostrils and lips point to a highly developed physical organism--to one who might be a lawyer1 physician1 banker1 or diplomat1 but whose features in any event proclaim the genial companion1 the ready raconteur1 and one upon whom the pleasures of the senses exercise an important influence4 ,it was this nice adjustment of the mental and physical1 this happy balance of mind and being1 that combined to produce a work which may justly be classed among the most original of the nineteenth century4 ,to fulfil the task ,i propose to myself1 observes the author in his preface1 it was necessary to be a physician1 a physiologist1 and even more or less of a classical scholar4 ,to these qualifications he added those of a thorough man of the world1 a natural epicure1 a keen observer1 a metaphysician1 and a writer unusually gifted with style and sententiousness of expression4 ,impressed by his masterly grasp of his subject1 ,la ,reynire1 on reading the volume for the first time1 immediately proclaimed its supremacy1 asserting that it should open the doors of the ,academy if they were to be opened by a superior mind4 ,among the many recognitions of the writer's genius none is more appreciative than that of ,balzac1 whose ,physiology of ,marriage was inspired by the ,physiology of ,taste4 ,treatises innumerable on gastronomy have since appeared1 but few are worthy of serious consideration1 the majority being more or less offensive or mere echoes of a familiar strain4 ,with ,savarin gastronomy became an all-absorbing enthusiasm--a prolific vein that hitherto had been imperfectly explored4 ,it was1 above all1 an art1 a potent factor in the pleasures of life1 a valuable auxiliary to health1 a means of advancing the amenities of existence--a finesse1 in short1 of which he was to be the analyst and interpreter1 the ,la ,bruyre and the ,sainte-,beuve4 ,like the sprightly ,ninon in her letters1 who at eighty was still able to captivate and charm1 ,savarin might have written of the meditations of his advanced age3 ,we are not indulging in what is termed fine conversation--we are philosophising4 ,the reader who will look to the ,physiology for practical directions on cookery will be disappointed4 ,in place of a cook-book he will find a reflective dissertation on the sthetics of the table1 replete with wit1 humour1 and anecdote2 a treatise dealing more with physical functions than the fashioning of sauces1 and with the fork and wine-glass rather than with the chef and casserole4 ,anthelme ,brillat-,savarin1 or ,brillat de ,savarin1 was born at ,belley1 in the department of the ,ain1 in #agee1 the ,physiologie du ,got appearing in #ahbe1 a year previous to his death4 ,the volume was the outcome of a lifetime of preparation for which his temperament and circumstances afforded abundant opportunity4 ,like ,la ,reynire1 he was a lawyer by profession1 and1 like him1 he became an exile for a considerable period4 ,he had received a careful education1 the early part of his life being devoted to his legal practice1 medical and chemical studies1 and epicurean pleasures4 ,he was fond of music1 the fair sex1 and good dinners1 this triple penchant revealing itself frequently in his anecdotes4 ,when thirty-eight years of age1 he was elected mayor of ,belley4 ,later1 after sojourning in ,switzerland1 he visited the ,united ,states for a period of three years to introduce to ,new ,england the fondue--a dish which he proclaims of ,swiss origin and from which the ,welsh rarebit was derived4 ,on his return to ,france he became a commissary of the government in the department of ,seine-et-,oise1 afterwards being appointed a counsellor in the ,court of ,cassation1 a position he occupied during the remainder of his life4 ,while engaged in this tribunal1 his volume was leisurely composed4 ,lyons1 celebrated for its cervelas1 chestnuts1 beer1 and vin de ,rivage1 was but a short distance from his native place1 and it may be assumed that when tired of home fare he availed himself occasionally of its numerous markets and restaurants1 and enjoyed the hospitality of its bons-vivants4 ,game was abundant in the ,ain1 a region he describes as a charming country of high mountains1 hills1 rivers1 limpid brooks1 and cascades4 ,nor were trout wanting in its crystal waters--a delicacy that often graced his table and furnished him with one of his most picturesque recipes4 ,he is speaking in his oracular way to his chef1 in the admirable ,meditation entitled ,the ,theory of ,frying1 a chapter that every cook should learn by heart3 ,i say nothing about choosing oils or fats1 because the various cook-books which ,i have placed in your library give sufficient information on that hand4 ,do not forget1 however1 when you have any of those trout weighing scarcely more than a quarter of a pound and caught in running brooks that murmur far from the capital--do not forget1 ,i say1 to fry them in the very finest olive oil you have4 ,this simple dish1 properly sprinkled and served up with slices of lemon1 is worthy of being offered to a cardinal4 ,one can almost hear the music of the stream as it purls over its pebbly bed and whispers to the overhanging alders1 while one marks the leap and glitter of trout and their prompt transition to the basket and the frying-pan4 ,and lest these lovely denizens of spring-fed waters be overlooked in a subsequent chapter1 it will be well to attach at once the instructions as to their mode of cooking of another author1 in whom one is sure of an admirable guide1 philosopher1 and friend3 ,they are so perfumed1 these little trout1 says ,baron ,brisse1 that it is sufficient to cook them in a light court-bouillon1 and as soon as they are perfectly cold to eat them au naturel2 all seasonings detracting from their savour4 ,truites au court-bouillon4 ,clean the trout by the gills1 dry them carefully1 tie up the heads1 then cook them in a court-bouillon made of white wine seasoned with slices of onion1 sprigs of parsley1 thyme1 bay-leaf1 and salt1 adding a little bouillon2 let them simmer until completely done1 dry them1 and serve on a napkin garnished with parsley4 ,if a sauce is desired1 mix a part of the court-bouillon with butter and flour1 reduce one half on a lively fire1 and serve4 ,truites la ,vosgienne4 ,after dressing the trout1 sprinkle with salt and let them stand an hour4 ,then place them on the fire with the necessary quantity of white wine for their cooking1 seasoning with onions1 cloves1 a bouquet-garni1 a clove of garlic1 salt1 pepper1 and butter mixed with flour2 cook on a lively fire1 lay out the trout on a platter1 and mask them with the sauce passed through a sieve4 ,these modes of preparation1 all of which are delicious1 will not interfere with preparing them la matelote and au gratin1 or the more common manner of frying them in butter1 with a thin slice or two of salt pork and a dash of lemon and sprinkling of chopped parsley added to the sauce of the cooking4 ,the best of sauces1 however1 is the sauce of catching the trout one's self--to hear with one's own ear the cool lapse of streams that murmur far from the capital1 and view the rubies at first hand as they flash from the ,salmo's roseate sides4 ,if1 as was stated by the ,marquis de ,cussy1 ,brillat-,savarin ate copiously and ill1 chose little1 talked dully1 and was preoccupied at the end of a repast1 no fault can be found by the most captious critic with the conversationalist and host of the ,physiology4 ,there is not a dull line within its covers1 or a page unmarked by brilliancy4 ,beginning with a dissertation on the senses in general1 he proceeds with a most recondite analysis of the senses relating to taste4 ,he explains that the empire of taste has its blind and its deaf1 that the sensation of taste resides principally in the papill of the tongue1 though every tongue has not the same number of papill1 but that in some there are thrice as many as in others4 ,hence1 with two persons sitting at the same table1 one may be deliciously affected by the viands and wines1 whereas the other will seem to partake of them with restraint4 ,taste1 he maintains1 is a sense that1 all things considered1 procures us the greatest number of enjoyments3 #ast4 ,because the pleasure of eating is the only one that1 taken in moderation1 is never followed by fatigue2 #b;d4 ,because it belongs to all times1 to all ages1 and to all conditions2 #c;d4 ,because it occurs necessarily at least once a day1 and may be repeated without inconvenience two or three times in this space of time2 #dth4 ,because it may be combined with all our other pleasures and even console us for their absence2 #eth4 ,because the impressions it receives are at the same time more durable and more dependent on our will2 #fth4 ,because in eating we receive a certain indefinable and special comfort which arises from the intuitive consciousness that we repair our losses and prolong our existence by the food we eat4 ,lastly1 he asserts1 the tongue of man1 by the delicacy of its texture and the various membranes which environ it1 sufficiently indicates the sublimity of the operations for which it is destined4 ,it contains at least three movements unknown to animals1 which he terms spication1 rotation1 and verrition4 ,the first is when the tongue in a conical shape comes from between the lips that compress it2 the second1 when the tongue moves circularly in the space comprised between the interior of the cheeks and the palate2 the third1 when the tongue1 curving upwards or downwards1 gathers anything remaining in the semicircular canal formed by the lips and the gums4 ,like the seasoned and thoroughbred hunter who is sure of his sinew and his stride1 and before whom the stile1 the ditch1 and the five-barred gate present no obstacles1 so may ,savarin be freely allowed his head and be followed over the fragrant fields of taste1 with no fear that anything appertaining to its province will prove impossible or difficult for him to surmount4 ,the influence of smell on taste is closely analysed3 ,for myself1 ,i am not only persuaded that without the participation of smell there is no perfect taste1 but ,i am even tempted to believe that smell and taste form only one sense1 of which the mouth is the laboratory and the nose the chimney2 or1 to speak more exactly1 that the tongue tastes tactile substances1 and the nose gases4 ,this theory may be vigorously defended4 ,all sapid bodies must be necessarily odorous1 which places them as well in the empire of smell as in the empire of taste4 ,we eat nothing without smelling it with more or less consciousness2 and for unknown foods the nose acts always as a sentinel1 and cries1 ',who goes there8' ,when smell is interrupted1 taste is paralysed4 ,this is proved by three experiments1 which any one may make successfully3 ,first1 when the nasal mucous membrane is irritated by a violent cold in the head1 taste is entirely obliterated4 ,in anything we swallow there is no taste4 ,the tongue1 nevertheless1 remains in its normal state4 ,second1 if we eat whilst holding tight our nose1 we are much astonished to experience the sensation of taste only in an obscure and imperfect manner4 ,by this means the most nauseous medicines are swallowed almost without tasting them4 ,third1 we see the same effect if1 at the moment we have swallowed1 instead of bringing back the tongue to its usual place1 we keep it close to the palate4 ,in this case the circulation of the air is intercepted1 the organs of smell are not affected1 and taste does not occur4 ,these different effects depend upon the same cause1 the lack of coperation of the smell1 which makes the sapid body to be appreciated only on account of its juice1 and not for the odoriferous gas that emanates from it4 ,these principles being thus laid down1 ,i regard it as certain that taste gives rise to sensations of three different orders1 namely3 direct sensation1 complete sensation1 and reflex sensation4 ,direct sensation is that first perception which arises from the immediate operation of the organs of the mouth1 whilst the appreciable body is yet found on the point of the tongue4 ,complete sensation is that which is composed of this first perception and of the impression which originates when the food abandons this first position1 passes into the back part of the mouth1 and impresses the whole organ with both taste and perfume4 ,reflex sensation is the judgment of the mind upon the impressions transmitted to it by the organ4 ,to no other writer may one turn so satisfactorily for an interpretation of the word gastronomy1 a word which belongs by right to him4 ,previous to his exegesis1 gluttony and gastronomy had been more or less confounded4 ,it is true that the poem of ,berchoux is entitled ,la ,gastronomie1 but the term was not defined by the poet1 nor do the piquant pages of the ,almanach refer to the art of having excellent cheer under that term4 ,the true epicure1 as distinguished from the gross eater1 had long stood in need of the definition and distinction4 ,the gastronomer is nearly always a sage1 it has been observed--a statement borne out by the ,dictionnaire de la ,conversation1 which characterises this science as the art of living1 of eating worthily1 properly1 as a man of taste1 character1 and judgment4 ,it will prove of interest1 therefore1 to those who are unfamiliar with the ,physiology to refer to the third ,meditation1 and note the ,french savant's elaborate analysis of the word3 ,gastronomy is the rational knowledge of all that relates to man as an eater4 ,its object is to watch over the preservation of men by means of the best nourishment possible4 ,it arrives thereat by laying down certain principles to direct those who look for1 furnish1 or prepare the things which may be converted into food4 ,thus it is gastronomy that sets in motion farmers1 vine-growers1 fishers1 hunters1 and the numerous family of cooks1 whatever may be their title1 or under whatever qualification they may disguise their occupation of preparing food4 ,gastronomy is connected-- ,with natural history1 by its classification of alimentary substances4 ,with physics1 by the investigation of their composition and their qualities2 ,with chemistry1 by the different analyses and decompositions which it makes them undergo2 ,with cookery1 by the art of preparing food and rendering it more agreeable to taste2 ,with commerce1 by the search for means to buy at the cheapest rate possible what is consumed by it1 and selling to the greatest advantage that which is presented for sale2 ,lastly1 with political economy1 by the resources which it furnishes to the authorities for taxation1 and by the means of exchange it establishes among nations4 ,some knowledge of gastronomy is needed by all men1 since it tends to increase the allotted sum of human happiness2 and the more easy a man's circumstances1 the more advantages does he gain from such knowledge4 ,summing up1 he pronounces its material subject to be everything that may be eaten2 its direct object1 the preservation of individuals2 and its means of execution1 cultivation which produces1 commerce which exchanges1 industry which prepares1 and experience which invents the means of turning everything to the best account4 ,it will thus be perceived how little understood1 even at this advanced age1 is the term in question1 and how few1 comparatively1 there are who comprehend the true significance of the pleasures of the table--pleasures where grossness does not enter1 but where taste1 refinement1 the amenities1 and hygiene assert their sway4 ,life is short at its longest2 but who shall harvest its sweetnesses so fully as the accomplished gastronomer6 ,the rustling forest glades1 radiant in the pomp of ,october1 may be summoned by the appearance of a finely larded grouse2 the tinkle of liberated brooks be heard with the advent of the first ,april trout2 the flute of the whitethroat be recalled by the floral tributes to the table2 and all that is sunshine in nature be distilled when the cork sets free a noble vintage of the ,mdoc or the ,marne4 ,if the term gastronomy was imperfectly understood until the definition in the ,physiology1 as much may be said of the word gourmandise1 which oftener served as a designation of gluttony than as a synonym of refined epicureanism4 ,gourmandise1 ,savarin defines as an impassioned1 rational1 and habitual preference for all objects which flatter the sense of taste4 ,it is opposed to excess in eating and drinking4 ,physically1 it is an indication of the wholesome state of the organs on which nutrition depends1 and1 morally1 it marks implicit resignation to the commands of the ,creator1 who1 in ordering man to eat that he may live1 invites him to do so by appetite1 encourages him by flavour1 and rewards him by pleasure4 ,it is1 moreover1 most favourable to beauty1 imparting more brilliancy to the eye1 freshness to the skin1 more support to the muscles2 and as it is certain in physiology that it is the depression of muscles that causes wrinkles1 those formidable enemies of beauty1 it is equally true that1 all things being equal1 those who know how to eat are comparatively ten years younger than those ignorant of that science4 ,it was also left for him to discover that gourmandise1 when it is shared1 has a marked influence on the happiness which may be found in the conjugal state4 ,illustration3 ,,pour ,,voir ,,de ,,bons ,,refrains ,,clore1 ,,buvons ,,encore6 ,frontispiece of ,le ,caveau ,moderne 7#ahjg7 ,let us follow the accomplished chancellor farther in his physiological studies1 and refer to the thirteenth ,meditation1 which treats of gastronomic tests4 ,in a previous chapter a famous bill of fare of the renowned ,rocher de ,cancale has been presented1 which it may be well to compare with what approaches nearest to a menu or series of menus in the ,physiology4 ,it will then be for the reader to decide whether he would rather have assisted at the feast of the ,rocher alluded to1 or at that prescribed by ,savarin for an income of thirty thousand francs in the early part of the century4 ,in both instances the list of accompanying wines is wanting1 and therefore the menus are necessarily incomplete as a dinner chronicle of the times4 ,happily1 the long and heavy dinners of former days have given place to repasts of a far more simple nature1 as the heavy wines of ,oporto and the ,south and the highly saccharine products of the vine have been replaced by lighter and more wholesome kinds4 ,it is possible now to dine well and generously and escape a headache or an indigestion the following morning4 ,by gastronomic tests1 which the author claims as a personal discovery that will honour the nineteenth century1 he understands dishes of acknowledged flavour1 of an excellence so undoubted that the mere sight of them ought to move1 in a well-organised man1 every faculty of taste2 so that all those whose faces under such circumstances neither flash with desire nor beam with ecstasy may justly be noted as unworthy of the honours of the banquet and its attending pleasures4 ,a test destined for a man of limited means1 he explains1 would have little reference to a head clerk1 and would scarcely be perceived when a select few dine together at a capitalist's or a diplomatist's4 ,should such dishes as a truffled turkey seem out of keeping for an income of fifteen thousand francs1 and the list of the third series appear too elaborate for an income of double that sum1 due consideration should be taken of the value of the franc at the period to which the author refers4 ,it is also to be presumed that such a bill of fare was not often served by any one person1 and was therefore more highly prized and more easily digested4 ,gastronomic ,tests4 ,first ,series4 ,for a ,presumed ,income of #ejjj ,francs a ,year 7,mediocrity74 ,a large fillet of veal1 well larded with bacon1 done in its own gravy4 ,a country-fed turkey stuffed with ,lyons chestnuts4 ,fattened pigeons larded and cooked to a turn4 ,eggs dressed la neige4 ,a dish of ,sauerkraut bristling with sausages and crowned with ,strassburg bacon4 ,remarks4--,bless me6 that looks all right6 ,come on6 let us do honour to it6 ,second ,series4 ,for a ,presumed ,income of #ae1jjj ,francs 7,comfort74 ,a fillet of beef underdone in the middle1 larded and done in its own gravy4 ,a haunch of venison1 accompanied by a gherkin sauce4 ,a boiled turbot4 ,a leg of mutton prsal1 done la provenale4 ,a truffled turkey4 ,early green peas4 ,remarks4--,ah1 my dear friend1 what a delightful sight6 ,this is truly a wedding-feast4 ,third ,series4 ,for a ,presumed ,income of #cj1jjj ,francs or more 7,riches74 ,a fowl of about seven pounds stuffed with truffles till it becomes almost round4 ,an enormous ,strassburg pt de foie gras1 in the shape of a bastion4 ,a large ,rhein carp la ,chambord1 richly dressed and decorated4 ,truffled quails1 with marrow1 spread on buttered toast au basilic4 ,a river pike larded1 stuffed1 and smothered in a cream of crayfish secundum artem4 ,a pheasant done to perfection1 with his tail-feathers stuck in1 lying on toast la ,sainte-,alliance4 ,a hundred early asparagus1 each half an inch thick1 with sauce l'osmazme4 ,two dozen ortolans la provenale1 as described in some of the cookery-books already mentioned4 ,a pyramid of vanilla and rose meringues--a test sometimes useless unless in the case of ladies and abbs4 ,remarks4--,ah1 my dear sir 7or my lord71 what a genius that cook of yours is6 ,it is only at your table that one meets such dishes4 ,in order that any test should produce its full effect1 the author advises that it be served plenteously1 the rarest of dishes losing its influence when not in abundant proportion1 as the first impression it produces on the guests is naturally checked by the fear of being stingily served1 or1 in certain cases1 of being obliged to refuse out of politeness--a conclusion one may see verified frequently at a ,european table-d'hte when the parsimonious though perhaps extortionate landlord deals out the roast or the fish through the intermedium of the maligned garon or ,kellner4 ,there are certain dishes1 nevertheless1 whose zest consists in their very daintiness and lack of exuberance1 such as numerous entres1 in the savouring of which even the forks and knives should be small and the proportions of the dish be restricted rather than augmented4 ,but the rules in the ,physiology as to a perfect dinner still hold good in the main1 and will well bear reiteration3 ,let the number of guests not exceed twelve1 so that the conversation may be constantly general4 ,let them be so chosen that their occupations are various1 their tastes analogous1 and with such points of contact that one need not have recourse to that odious formality of introductions4 ,let the dining-room be brilliantly lighted1 the cloth as white as snow1 and the temperature of the room from sixty to sixty-eight degrees ,fahrenheit4 ,let the men be witty and not pedantic1 and the women amiable without being too coquettish4 ,let the dishes be exquisitely choice1 but small in number1 and the wines of the first quality1 each in its degree4 ,let the dishes be served from the more substantial to the lighter2 and from the simpler wines to those of finer bouquet4 ,let the eating proceed slowly1 the dinner being the last business of the day1 and let the guests look upon themselves as travellers who journey together towards a common object4 ,let the coffee be hot and the liqueurs be specially chosen4 ,let the drawing-room to which the guests retire be large enough to permit those who cannot do without it to have a game of cards1 while leaving1 however1 ample scope for post-prandial conversation4 ,let the guests be detained by social attraction1 and animated with expectation that before the evening is over there will be some further enjoyment4 ,let the tea not be too strong1 the toast artistically buttered1 and the punch made with care4 ,let the signal for departure not be given before eleven o'clock4 ,let every one be in bed at midnight4 ,if any man has ever been a guest at a repast uniting all these conditions1 he can boast of having been present at his own apotheosis2 and he will have enjoyed it the less in proportion as these conditions have been forgotten or neglected4 ,exception perhaps may be taken to the temperature of the dining-room as given in the above injunctions1 #gj to #gc ,fahrenheit being a more comfortable atmospheric medium of dining where it is possible4 ,the tea and toast and the punch may also be dispensed with to advantage1 and in their stead a liqueur glass of ,curaoa sec be prescribed1 one of the best1 as it is one of the most agreeable1 digestives after a substantial repast4 ,game has been pronounced a delight of the table by ,savarin--a food healthful1 warming1 savoury1 and easy of digestion to young stomachs4 ,of small game or birds1 he accords the highest place to the fig-pecker1 saying that if this bird were as large as a pheasant it would be worth an acre of land4 ,savarin was a true sportsman1 who knew his game and its proper preparation1 and among the breeziest of his chapters are those relating to field sports1 wherein due regard is paid to the luncheon4 ,a portion of the fifteenth ,meditation will be sufficient to show the counsellor in his hunting costume at the halt of a shooting party2 he is in his happiest vein1 his theme being ,the ,ladies4 ,the morning has been fine1 and the birds abundant4 ,appetite is not wanting1 and at a prearranged hour a party of ladies arrive1 laden with the treasures of ,prigord1 the triumphs of ,strassburg1 and the bubbles of ,epernay1 to assist in the repast4 ,it is at the close of this that the chancellor becomes most eloquent and pronounces one of his most characteristic monologues3 ,i have been out shooting in the centre of ,france and the most remote provinces1 and seen arrive at the halt charming women1 girls redolent with freshness1 some arriving in cabriolets1 others in simple country carts4 ,i have seen them the first in laughing at the inconveniences of their conveyance4 ,i have seen them display upon the turf the turkey in clear jelly1 the household pie1 the salad all ready for mixing4 ,i have seen them with light foot dancing round the bivouac fire lighted on this occasion4 ,i have taken part in the games and merriment that accompany such a gipsy feast1 and ,i feel thoroughly convinced that1 with less luxury1 there is quite as much that is charming1 gay1 and delightful4 ,why when they take their leave should not some kisses be interchanged with the best sportsman1 who is in his glory2 with the worst shot because he is most unlucky3 with the others so as not to make them jealous8 ,all are about to separate1 custom has authorized it2 and it is permissible1 and even commanded1 to take advantage of such an opportunity4 ,fellow-sportsmen1 ye who are prudent and look after solid things1 fire straight1 and bag as much as you can before the ladies arrive1 for experience teaches us that after their departure sportsmen seem very rarely in luck4444#bg ,as the lordly ,asian pheasant is thriving and multiplying with us1 it will be pertinent to present ,savarin's famous and somewhat inaccessible formula of preparing him la ,sainte-,alliance for all such as may wish to try so elaborate a plat de luxe1 it being well understood that the pheasant1 above all birds1 requires to be very fully matured by hanging3 ,the bird is first to be carefully larded with the best and firmest lard4 ,then bone two woodcocks1 put their flesh aside1 and keep the livers and trails of the two birds separate4 ,take this meat and mince it1 add some beef marrow1 steamed1 a little scraped bacon1 pepper1 salt1 herbs1 and enough good truffles to stuff the inner cavity of the pheasant4 ,be careful not to let the stuffing spread to the outside1 which is sometimes a little difficult when the bird is rather high4 ,nevertheless1 it can be done in various ways1 and amongst others by fastening a crust of bread with a piece of thread on the stomach1 which prevents its bursting4 ,cut a slice of bread longer and wider by two inches than the whole pheasant is2 then take the livers and trails of the woodcocks1 and pound them with two large truffles1 one anchovy1 a little scraped bacon1 and a goodly lump of the best fresh butter4 ,spread this paste on the slice of bread1 and put it under the pheasant stuffed as above1 so that it may receive all the gravy dripping from it while roasting4 ,when the pheasant is cooked1 serve it up lying gracefully on its toast1 put some bitter oranges round it1 and await the result without any uneasiness4 ,this high-flavoured dish ought to be washed down1 in preference1 with some of the best wine of ,upper ,burgundy4 ,treated according to the preceding prescription1 the pheasant1 already distinguished itself1 is permeated from its outside with the savoury fat of the bacon which is browned and in its inside it is impregnated with the odoriferous gases from the woodcocks and the truffles4 ,the toast1 already so richly prepared1 receives again the gravies of the triple combination which flow from the bird while roasting4 ,has gastronomy progressed since the time of ,brillat-,savarin8 ,replying to this question1 ,charles ,monselet1 writing in #ahgi1 states that he looks in vain for the tables that are praised or the hosts that are renowned4 ,where are the great cooks8 ,what names have we now to oppose to those of ,carme and ,robert8 ,shall ,i speak of official cookery1 of ministerial dinners8 ,these are not the dinners to which people go to eat4 ,there especially the cook is more proud of a ,chinese kiosk on a rock in coloured and spun sugar1 which no person dare touch1 than of a carp la ,chambord treated in a masterly way4 ,since the days of ,cambacrs official cookery has ceased to exist4 ,the similarity of dinners complained of by ,walker and ,thackeray during a previous era he refers to as existing in ,paris3 ,that which you eat yesterday in the ,faubourg ,saint-,germain1 you will eat to-morrow in the ,faubourg ,saint-,honor4 ,at the end of the week you recognise that you have merely changed your knife and fork4 ,this poverty of imagination1 this absence of research are unworthy of a country such as ours4 ,apart from his neglect to mention the labours of his distinguished gastronomical predecessor1 ,savarin is also open to censure for failing to thank the ,italians for their admirable lessons in the science of cookery1 including that of frying in oil1 which he particularly specifies as so desirable with trout caught in running brooks that murmur far from the capital4 ,to this day the ,italian remains a great confectioner and pastry-cook1 while an ,italian maestro is a delight of the haute cuisine1 his methods possessing much originality and holding nothing in common with the greasy dishes and their superabundance of garlic which one meets in the average inn and in many of the restaurants of the land beyond the ,alps4 ,upon one subject1 it is to be regretted1 we have not been advised by the philosophic and analytic mayor of ,belley1 who is silent concerning the physiology of the cocktail1 or any form of beverage composed of spirits1 taken before dinner4 ,during ,la ,reynire's era1 on the occasion of a grand dinner the rule was the so-called coup d'avant1 the coup du milieu1 and the coup d'aprs--the three spirituous graces1 as it were1 of an elaborate repast4 ,here was a lost opportunity for the ,physiology1 which might have formulated a hygienic chapter apart from the ,meditations on thirst and drinks4 ,unquestionably1 there are reasons for and against the use of a liquid stimulant before the principal meal4 ,the true gastronomer1 and all those who are careful of their health1 without which the best dinner may not be enjoyed1 will at any rate eschew all strong alcoholic beverages until evening4 ,the question of a stimulant before the dinner will then be one for individual consideration4 ,its daily use may scarcely be commended1 particularly if it be followed by wine3 one who is in possession of good health should not require a fictitious goad to appetite4 ,where a carefully planned dinner is in question1 however1 the dry cocktail--one1 and one only--taken ten minutes before the moment of sitting down at table1 is undoubtedly a stimulus to appetite and provocative of good-fellowship4 ,it pitches the company in a pleasant key at the onset1 and imparts a zest and an allgresse to the first part of the repast that were otherwise lacking4 ,then1 if the sparkling wine be not postponed too long1 and the dinner itself be meritorious1 the host and hostess may rest secure1 without a shadow of solicitude regarding its success4 ,impelled by its own geniality1 the company will take abundant care of itself1 and the stream of conversation and ripple of anecdote flow freely along1 unimpeded by the boulders of formality or the aridity engendered by a dearth of joyous fluids4 ,turning the leaves of the ,physiology1 the reader will be impressed with the fecundity of an author who treats with equal fluency of foods and drinks1 appetite and digestion1 sport and old age1 women and abbs1 and all that appertains to the physiology of gastronomy4 ,his portrait of a pretty gourmande under arms is a genre painting worthy of ,grard ,douw or ,van ,mieris1 while his ,meditation on the end of the world might have been composed by a doctor of the ,sorbonne4 ,the chapter on digestion is full of practical advice1 and from this his disquisitions on repose1 on dreams1 and on the influence of diet are a natural succession4 ,in the chapter on dreams we are told that all foods which are slightly exciting cause people to dream--such as brown meat1 pigeons1 ducks1 game1 and1 above all1 hare--the same property being also recognised in asparagus1 celery1 truffles1 sweetmeats1 and particularly vanilla4 ,equally suggestive are the essays on corpulence1 leanness1 and fasting1 and the many racy anecdotes of the ,varits1 while his aphorisms must always occupy a place in epicurean literature4 ,did ,savarin feel a premonition of immediate death when he penned the verses which he entitled ,the ,agony--,a ,physiological ,romance1 and which conclude the work that has rendered his name a synonym for all that appertains to the table and its pleasures8 ,i feel through all my senses life's sad end1 ,my dim eye sees the last few grains of sand ,falling1 ,louisa weeps1 my tender friend1 ,and places on my breast her trembling hand4 ,the band of morning-callers troops apace1 ,not to return1 they bid a last good-bye1 ,the doctor leaves1 the pastor takes his place1 ,for ,i must die6 ,i fain would pray1 my memory is gone2 ,i fain would speak1 my lips can frame no sound2 ,i hear1 though all is still1 a singing tone1 ,and a dull shadow seems to hover round2 ,all is now cold and dark1 my panting breast ,exhausts itself in heaving one poor sigh1 ,to wander round my lips in frozen rest1 ,for ,i must die6 ,numerous translations of the ,physiology have appeared in various languages4 ,of these the most familiar one in ,english1 entitled ,gastronomy as a ,fine ,art1 is well interpreted as far as it goes4 ,but many piquant passages are condensed1 and portions of chapters and at least one half of the ,varits are omitted altogether4 ,the most complete rendition is the large octavo volume1 with its rather unsatisfactory illustrations by ,lalauze1 termed ,a ,handbook of ,gastronomy1 wherein the ,english reader may commune with the ,french writer almost at first hand1 and not be obliged to forgo ,the ,pullet of ,bresse1 ,the ,dish of ,eels1 ,a ,day with the ,bernardines1 and ,the ,pheasant-- la ,sainte-,alliance4 ,illustration3 ,,alexandre ,,dumas ,from the etching by ,rajon ,illustration ,,from ,,car,,me ,,to ,,dumas ,les crivains-cuisiniers sont aussi ncessaires que les autres littrateurs3 il vous faut connatre la thorie du plus ancien des arts4--,,charles ,,gerard4 ,among the great professional cooks who were not alone notable practitioners1 but who have written understandingly on the art1 the names of ,beauvilliers1 ,carme1 ,ude1 ,francatelli1 ,soyer1 ,urbain-,dubois1 and ,gouff are preminent4 ,we have already considered the important rle enacted by ,beauvilliers as chef1 restaurateur1 and author4 ,the unctuous name of ,carme1 however1 is more often uttered with reverence1 and even yet evokes visions of all that is most delectable in sauces and entremts de douceur4 ,indeed1 were one to wish that he might turn an ,aladdin's ring and summon some genius of the range who would be most gladly welcomed1 surely on ,carme the choice would fall4 ,as for the dinner one might wish to command1 what better than the feast at the ,chteau de ,boulogne1 so eloquently described by ,lady ,morgan1 when he presided at the ,baron ,rothschild's villa--that dinner of an estival eventide when the landscape lay sweltering in the heat1 without1 but where all was deliciously cool within the vast pavilion which stood apart from the mansion in the midst of orange trees3 where distillations of the most delicate viands1 extracted in silver dews1 with chemical precision1 ',on tepid clouds of rising steam1' formed the base of all2 where every meat presented its own natural aroma1 and every vegetable its own shade of verdure2 where the mayonnaise was fried in ice 7like ,ninon's description of ,svign's heart72 and the tempered chill of the plombire anticipated the stronger shock1 and broke it1 of the exquisite avalanche1 which1 with the hue and odour of fresh gathered nectarines1 satisfied every sense and dissipated every coarser flavour4 ,the age of ,carme was the era of quintessences--of the cuisine classique1 when chemistry contributed new resources1 and fish1 meats1 and fowls were distilled1 in order to add a heightened flavour to the sauces and viands that their etherealised essences were to accentuate4 ,one thinks of ,lucullus and ,apicius1 and of the exceeding odoriferous and aromaticall vapour of the ovens of the artist mentioned by ,montaigne4 ,that success in any walk of life is the result not only of natural aptitude but of persevering application1 ,carme's history affords abundant proof1 if such were required4 ,left to shift for himself when but seven years old1 at fifteen he had already served his apprenticeship as a cook1 to advance with rapid strides in his chosen profession4 ,constant sobriety1 which called for much self-sacrifice on his part1 and an iron constitution enabled him to carry out the most arduous labours4 ,my ambition was serious1 he states in his memoirs1 and at an early age ,i became desirous of elevating my profession to an art4 ,the better to perfect himself in its various branches1 he studied for ten years under the most distinguished masters1 including ,robert and ,laguipire4 ,for years1 also1 he was a daily student at the ,imperial ,library and ,cabinet of ,engravings1 perfecting himself in drawing and in the literature of his profession4 ,he likewise made an exhaustive study of old ,roman cookery1 only to arrive at the conclusion that it was intrinsically bad and abominably heavy 7foncirement mauvaise et atrocement lourde7--an opinion confirmed by the ,marquis de ,cussy1 who declared that he would rather dine at a ,parisian restaurant for twenty francs than with ,lucullus in the saloon of ,apollo4 ,it was ,carme's habit to take notes nightly of his progress and the modifications he had made in his work during the day1 thereby fixing those ideas and combinations that otherwise would have escaped his memory4 ,amid the luxurious kitchens of the ,empire he reigned supreme--the king of pastry-cooks and marvellous in his sauces1 galantines1 and inventions4 ,crowned heads soon became his suitors1 and princes implored his services4 ,it was ,talleyrand1 one of the wittiest and most epicurean princes of the ,empire1 who inspired him perhaps with his greatest enthusiasm1 and of whom he says1 ,m4 de ,talleyrand understands the genius of a cook1 he respects it1 he is the most competent judge of delicate progress1 and his expenditures are wise and great at the same time4 ,of ,laguipire1 the chief cook of ,murat1 to whose talents he ascribes the elegance and clat of the culinary art of the nineteenth century1 he is unstinted in his praises4 ,of ,beauvilliers he has little to say1 and although a volume appeared bearing the combined names of ,beauvilliers and ,carme1 one fancies that the proverbial jealousy of cooks was not wanting in their case4 ,carme has modified the adage on se fait cuisinier1 mais on est n rtisseur1 claiming that to become a perfect cook one must first be a distinguished pastry-maker1 and citing as instances his favourite teacher ,laguipire1 with ,robert1 ,lasne1 ,riquette1 and numerous other celebrities4 ,he speaks of the lightness1 the grace1 and the colour of pastry2 of the order1 perspicuity1 and intelligence required in its preparation4 ,it is easier1 he says1 to cook pastry than to make it4444 ,there are ovens and ovens 7fours74 ,there is the four chaud2 there is the four gai2 there is the four chaleur modre4 ,the best oven is that which is often heated and which retains its heat4 ,if there is too much loft and too little floor1 or much floor and little loft1 only meagre results may be expected4 ,when one orders a vol-au-vent la financire or a pt d'crevisses 7that triumph of ,orlans7 at a restaurant1 therefore1 it will be perceived it becomes a question of the oven as well as the capacity of the artist directing it that counts in the success1 and which the conscientious diner should take into consideration ere finding fault with the addition4 ,again1 the analogy between cookery and painting becomes apparent4 ,thus the conditions noted by ,carme find a parallel in the artist endowed with a vivid imagination1 but possessed of only mediocre technique2 or a painter whose feeling may be admirable1 but whose execution is deficient4 ,the four gai--how it suggests a landscape of ,cuyp steeped in the splendours of the setting sun--to say nothing of a nicely gilded omelette or a souffl of apricots6 ,to glacer la flamme1 as ,carme expressed it1 calls for a four d'enfer1 and one has in mind a crme gele d',alaska1 with the fire managed by a ,mephistopheles4 ,let the cook and the painter continue to lay on the colours gaily--the one with his braise and the other with his brush4 ,art is art always1 and finds its sure reward in whatever sphere talent1 conscientiousness1 and application are united4 ,in the autobiographic preface of the ,cuisinier ,parisien an instance is cited of the care and variety which the author claims every industrious cook should bring to bear in his work1 in order to excite the appetite of the amphitryon3 ,one day the ,prince-,regent of ,england1 whom ,i served1 said to me1 ',carme1 you will make me die of indigestion2 ,i am fond of everything you give me1 and you tempt me too much4' ',monseigneur1' ,i replied1 'my principal office is to challenge your appetite by the variety of my service2 but it is not my affair to regulate it4' ,the prince smiled1 saying that ,i was right1 and ,i continued to supply him with the best4 ,the charcoal shortens our lives1 said ,carme2 but what matter8--we lose in years and gain in glory4 ,a born epicure1 he never risked his health by over-indulgence of his epicurean taste4 ,i have been prudent1 he states1 not by inclination1 but through a profound sense of my duty4 ,to his culinary accomplishments he joined those of a master director and matre-d'htel4 ,witness his remarks concerning the functions of a chief steward3 ,the matre-d'htel cuisinier should possess that unification of qualities which is seldom bestowed1 even in an isolated form4 ,he will be a cook1 above all--able1 alert1 productive2 he will be cut out for active command and be animated by an invincible ardour for work2 he will be a man of parts1 an enthusiast1 vigilant even to minuteness4 ,he will see all1 and know all4 ,the matre-d'htel is never ill4 ,he presides over everything1 his impetus dominates all2 he alone has the right to raise his voice1 and all must obey4 ,he must be sufficiently learned to write out1 when occasion calls for it1 without the aid of books1 the principal part of his bills of fare4 ,these are his book of resources1 the journal of his fatigues and his victories4 ,alas6 that which he may not preserve in these copies are the spontaneous fire and ready tact he has displayed in connection with his ranges--these are things of the moment that die at their birth4 ,many anecdotes of the famous gastronomers and great personages of his time have been recounted by ,carme4 ,to ,cambacrs he refers at length1 disputing his claim to a distinguished place among epicures4 ,the cuisine of the arch-chancellor1 he states decisively1 never merited its great reputation4 ,this was through no fault of his chef1 ,m4 ,grand',manche1 an excellent practitioner1 but was due solely to the excessive parsimony of his employer1 who at each service was in the habit of noting the entres that were untouched or scarcely touched1 and of forming his carte for the morrow with their remains4 ,what a dinner1 merciful heavens6 ,i would not say that the dessert may not be utilised1 but that it may not supply a dinner for a prince and an eminent gastronomer4 ,this is a delicate question2 the master has nothing to say1 nothing to see2 the skill and probity of the cook alone should enter into the facts4 ,the dessert should only be employed with precaution1 skill1 and especially in silence4 ,the arch-chancellor received from the departments innumerable gifts of provisions and the finest of poultry4 ,all such were forthwith engulfed in a vast larder of which he retained the key4 ,he kept tally of the provisions1 the dates of their arrival1 and he alone gave orders for their utilisation4 ,frequently1 when he issued his orders the provisions were spoiled4 ,cambacrs was never a gourmand in the scientific acceptance of the word2 he was naturally a great and even voracious eater4 ,can one believe that he preferred1 above all dishes1 the pt chaud with forcemeat balls8--a heavy1 unsavoury1 and vulgar dish4 ,as a hors-d'uvre he had frequently a crust of pt reheated on the grill1 and had brought to table the combien of a ham that had done duty for the week4 ,and his skilful cook who never had the grand fundamental sauces6 neither his under-cooks or aids nor his bottle of ,bordeaux6 ,what parsimony6 what a pity6 what an establishment6 ,neither ,m4 ,cambacrs nor ,m4 ,brillat-,savarin knew how to eat4 ,both were fond of strong and vulgar things1 and simply filled their stomachs4 ,this is literally true4 ,m4 de ,savarin was a large eater1 and talked little and without facility1 it seemed to me2 he had a heavy air and resembled a parson4 ,at the end of a repast his digestion absorbed him1 and ,i have seen him go to sleep4 ,charles ,monselet has termed ,savarin a mere seltzer drinker1 while ,dumas says he was neither a gastronomer nor a gourmet1 but simply a vigorous eater4 ,his large size1 his heavy carriage1 his common appearance1 with his costume ten or twelve years behind the times1 caused him to be termed the drum-major of the ,court of ,cassation4 ,all at once1 and a dozen years after his death1 we have inherited one of the most charming books of gastronomy that it is possible to imagine--the ',physiologie du ,got4' ,my work is a manual to be ceaselessly consulted1 ,carme remarked with reference to his ,matre-d',htel ,franais4 ,the truth of this assertion becomes manifest at once on reading the exquisitely careful directions which characterise all his treatises4 ,the published works of the versatile author-chef include ,le ,matre-d',htel ,franais1 ,le ,cuisinier ,parisien1 ,le ,ptissier ,royal ,parisien1 ,le ,ptissier ,pittoresque1 and ,l',art de la ,cuisine ,franaise au ,dix-neuvime ,sicle1 in several of which the copious illustrations reveal his skill as a draughtsman4 ,his death occurred while giving a lesson in his art4 ,the day of his decease one of his scholars gave him some quenelles of sole to taste4 ,the quenelles are good1 he remarked1 only they were prepared too hastily2 you must shake the saucepan lightly4 ,in so saying he indicated by a slight motion the movement he desired to communicate4 ,but after two or three motions his once facile hand refused to respond to his will1 and the great artist was no more4 ,the asparagus plumps out at the name of ,carme6 exclaimed one of his admirers2 the hare that roams the forest utters his name to the stag who passes by2 the stag repeats it to the pheasant2 the lark sings it in his flight to the sun4 ,louis ,eustache ,ude1 once chef of ,louis ,,xvi1 and founder of the modern ,french school in ,england1 exerted considerable influence upon the better cookery of his day4 ,his ,french ,cook appeared in #ahbb1 and a few years afterwards he became chef of ,crockford's ,club1 the year during which his former employer1 the ,duke of ,york1 died4 ,the story is told that1 on hearing of the duke's illness1 ,ude exclaimed1 ,ah6 mon pauvre ,duc1 how greatly you will miss me where you are gone6 ,of the finesse that appertains to cookery1 of the difficulty to become perfect in the art1 ,ude wrote as follows3 ,what science demands more study8 ,every man is not born with the qualifications necessary to constitute a good cook4 ,music1 dancing1 fencing1 painting1 and mechanics in general possess professors under twenty years of age1 whereas in the first line of cooking preminence never occurs under thirty4 ,we see daily at concerts and academies young men and women who display the greatest abilities1 but in our line nothing but the most consummate experience can elevate a man to the rank of chief professor4 ,cookery is an art appreciated by only a very few individuals1 and which requires1 in addition to most diligent and studious application1 no small share of intellect and the strictest sobriety and punctuality2 there are cooks and cooks--the difficulty lies in finding the perfect one4 ,ude was succeeded in ,england by ,charles ,elm ,francatelli1 a distinguished pupil of ,carme1 who presided as chef at ,chesterfield ,house and various clubs until he became officier de bouche to the queen4 ,his ,modern ,cook is still a superior treatise1 and although little adapted to the average household1 it will well repay careful study on the part of the expert amateur4 ,the palate is as capable and nearly as worthy of education as the eye and the ear1 says ,francatelli--a statement which his volume abundantly bears out4 ,a scholar of ,carme1 ,francatelli was quick to note that si l'habit fait l'homme1 il fait aussi l'entre--that the sense of sight has its delight as well as the taste1 and one sees1 accordingly1 an ornate observance of decoration in his grand army of side-dishes4 ,these are excellent throughout1 but generally very elaborate1 while his sauces and recipes for pastry are especially good4 ,the same may be said of his quenelles and timbales4 ,a competent hand will find his work a valuable guide from which to obtain ideas2 it is not a practical book for the majority4 ,one should always remember1 among numerous other things1 his delicious sauces1 numbers sixty-five and sixty-six1 for venison1 which may also be used with a saddle of mutton1 and his recipes for trout au gratin and soup la reine4 ,the venison sauce especially should not be forgotten3 ,bruise one stick of cinnamon and twelve cloves1 and put them into a small stewpan with two ounces of sugar and the peel of one lemon pared off very thin and perfectly free from any portion of white pulp2 moisten with three glasses of port wine1 and set the whole to simmer gently on the fire for a quarter of an hour2 then strain it through a sieve into a small stewpan containing a pot of red-currant jelly4 ,just before sending the sauce to table1 set it on the fire to boil1 in order to melt the currant jelly1 so that it may mix with the essence of spice1 etc4 ,the second sauce is made in the same manner1 except that black-currant jelly is substituted for the red4 ,good ,bordeaux may be employed in place of port to advantage1 rendering the sauce less cloying1 and half the prescribed quantity of cloves will be found amply sufficient4 ,after ,francatelli1 ,alexis ,soyer did his part towards the improvement of the higher classes of ,england4 ,as an author he was ambitious1 if not distinguished1 his published works numbering four1 viz43 ,the ,gastronomic ,regenerator1 ,the ,modern ,housewife1 or ,mnagre1 ,the ,panthropheon or ,history of ,food1 and ,a ,shilling ,cookery for the ,people4 ,from the fact that the last-named volume reached its two hundred and forty-eighth thousand1 it may be concluded it was not a distinguished work1 and was written to attract the multitude who do not appreciate4 ,the warm reception given to his ,mnagre1 according to a reviewer in ,fraser's ,magazine1 indicated1 with a statistical accuracy very superior to the census1 the lamentably small number of educated palates and self-comprehending stomachs which this country possesses4 ,like ,carme1 ,soyer had studied the cuisine of the ancients attentively1 and in this respect his ,history of ,food becomes a valuable addition to the student's library4 ,but his execution is said to have been far below his conception1 and his soups much inferior to his soup-kitchens4 ,he refrains from giving a certain recipe for crawfish la ,sampayo1 which appeared in one of his bills of fare1 on account of an agreement between himself and ,m4 ,sampayo1 adding that the reason of the enormous expense of the dish was that two large bottles of ,prigord truffles1 which do not cost less than four guineas1 are stewed with them in champagne4 ,but inasmuch as the virtues of the truffle are sadly dissipated in its preserved state1 and chefs generally use an ordinary ,chablis or other wine in place of champagne1 one need not be seriously concerned with the loss of the crawfish4 ,as the quotation of recipes would call for considerable space1 it may be wise to dispense with any further illustrations in the instance of the above-mentioned artists1 and pass at once to the ,french author of the never-failing grace whose grand ,dictionary of ,cookery is marked by that felicity of expression and fecundity of invention so characteristic of all his works4 ,from the somewhat stilted style of ,soyer it becomes doubly pleasing to turn to the laughing pages of ,dumas1 at once suggestive and inspiring1 pointed in paragraph and scintillant with anecdote4#bh ,the author of ,monte ,cristo and ,the ,three ,musketeers has also left an illustrious name as a cook1 a host1 and an epicure4 ,and if1 of all celebrated artists1 it might be ,carme whom one would wish to prepare the dinner1 who more delightful than ,dumas as a vis--vis at the repast8 ,but his expansive smile and his bonhomie are reflected in his writings1 and his intuition of all is no less apparent when dealing with cookery than when detailing the intrigues of cardinals and courtiers4 ,a ,chartreuse becomes as important as the missing necklace of a queen1 and the theory of frying no less momentous than the fate of the prisoner of the ,chteau d',if4 ,as ,octave ,lacroix has phrased it1 ,assuredly it is a great attainment to be a romancist1 but it is by no means a mediocre glory to be a cook4444 ,romancist or cook1 ,alexandre ,dumas is a chef1 and the two vocations appear in him to go hand in hand1 or rather to be joined in one4 ,the two introductory epistles1 an anecdotal review of the art1 are among the most felicitous in the language4 ,nor should we forget the many references to the table in the ,impressions de ,voyage and numerous other volumes4 ,the ,marquis de ,cussy1 ,jules ,janin1 ,charles ,monselet1 and others have treated the same subject at more or less length1 but none of them so comprehensively4 ,i wish to conclude1 ,dumas often said1 my literary work of five hundred volumes by a work on cookery4 ,this was his great ambition1 and to it he devoted his most zealous efforts4 ,i see with pleasure1 he remarks in one of his volumes1 that my culinary reputation is increasing1 and soon promises to efface my literary reputation4444 ,i therefore make the announcement that as soon as ,i am freed from the claims of certain editors ,i will show you a book of practical cookery by which the most ignorant in matters gastronomical will be able to prepare1 as easily as my honourable friend ,vuillemot1 an espagnole or a mirepoix4#bi ,with ,dumas to promise was to fulfil1 and in due time his book--the last volume from his pen--appeared1 a tall folio of over a thousand pages1 with the spirited etching of the author by ,rajon4 ,while this is more especially devoted to the ,french kitchen1 it contains a large number of recipes from foreign countries where the author had travelled4 ,it thus becomes a compendium of many different schools1 offering a wide range for selection4 ,written1 moreover1 by an amateur1 it is also an easier guide than many of the professional manuals of the haute cuisine4 ,in the ,dictionary everything is passed under review--from snails la provenale to the feet of elephants1 from filets of kangaroo to lambs' tails glaces la chicore1 the list of fishes including an account of the origin of the term ,poisson d',avril 7,april fool74 ,illustration3 ,l',,art ,,du ,,cuisinier 7,,beauvilliers7 ,facsimile of title-page4 #ahbd1 ,vol4 ,,ii4 ,even the babiroussa1 or wild ,asian hog1 is not forgotten1 the author pronouncing its flesh very delicate1 and presenting this additional information concerning its character3 ',ah6 mon ,dieu1' asked a lady of her husband1 as they were looking at a babiroussa at the ,jardin des ,plantes1 'what kind of an animal is that1 my dear1 who instead of two horns has four8' ',madame1' said some one who was passing by1 'that is a widower who has remarried4' ,there are recipes from ,beauvilliers1 ,carme1 the ,marquis de ,cussy1 and the cook of ,king ,stanislas2 from the manuals of the times of ,louis ,,xiv and ,,xv2 from the cafs ,anglais1 ,verdier1 ,brbant1 ,magny1 ,grignon1 ,vfour1 and ,vry2 from ,elzar-,blaze1 ,la ,reynire1 the ,provincial ,brothers1 and ,vuillemot1 proprietor of the ,tte ,noire at ,st4 ,cloud4 ,one's mouth waters as he reads the vast alphabet of dishes4 ,there are1 for example1 thirty-one modes presented for preparing the carp1 and fifty-six for dressing the egg1 apart from the omelet1 with sixteen recipes for artichokes and a dozen for asparagus4 ,there is the ,java formula for cooking halcyons' nests1 and that of the cook of ,richelieu for godiveau1 a dissertation on the hocco1 and a prescription for bustards la daube4 ,no wonder that ,dumas has defined the dinner as a daily and capital action that can be worthily accomplished only by gens d'esprit4 ,this is well illustrated by an anecdote in the dedicatory epistle to ,jules ,janin1 which shows the characteristic hand of ,dumas to advantage3 ,the ,viscount de ,vieil-,castel1 brother of ,count ,horace de ,vieil-,castel1 one of the finest epicures of ,france1 made this proposition at a gathering of friends3 ',a single person can eat a dinner costing five hundred francs4' ',impossible6' was the simultaneous exclamation4 ',it is well understood1' resumed the ,viscount1 'that by the term eating is included drinking as well4' ',parbleu6' replied his friends4 ',very well2 ,i say that a man1 and by a man ,i do not mean a carter but an epicure--a pupil of ,montron or of ,courchamps--can eat a dinner of five hundred francs4' ',you1 for example8' ',i1 or any one else4' ',can you8' ',certainly4' ',i hold the five hundred francs1' said one of the bystanders2 'name your conditions4' ',that is a simple matter4 ,i will dine at the ,caf de ,paris1 make up my bill of fare1 and eat my five-hundred-franc dinner4' ',without leaving anything on the dishes or plates8' ',no1 indeed2 ,i will leave the bones4' ',and when will the wager take place8' ',to-morrow1 if you say so4' ',then you will not breakfast8' asked one of the bystanders4 ',i will breakfast as usual4' ',be it so4 ,to-morrow at seven1 at the ,caf de ,paris4' ,the same evening the ,viscount dined as usual at the restaurant2 then1 after dinner1 in order not to be influenced by stomachic cravings1 he set about preparing his carte for the following day4 ,the matre-d'htel was summoned4 ,it was midwinter2 the ,viscount suggested numerous fruits and early vegetables4 ,the hunting season was closed2 he wanted some game4 ,a week's grace was asked by the matre-d'htel4 ,the dinner was postponed for a week4 ,on the right and left of the table the judges were to dine4 ,the ,viscount had two hours in which to dine--from seven to nine4 ,he could talk or not1 as he chose4 ,at the appointed hour the ,viscount appeared1 saluted the judges1 and turned towards the table4 ,the bill of fare was to remain a mystery to his adversaries2 they were to have the pleasure of a surprise4 ,the ,viscount sat down4 ,he was served with twelve dozen ,ostende oysters1 with a half-bottle of ,johannisberger4 ,the ,viscount was in excellent appetite2 he asked for another twelve dozen oysters1 and another half-bottle of the same growth4 ,then came a soup of swallows' nests1 which the ,viscount poured in a bowl and drank as a bouillon4 ',really1 gentlemen1' said he1 ',i am in fine trim to-day1 and ,i have a notion to gratify a whim4' ',go on1 pardieu1 you are the doctor4' ',i adore beefsteak and potatoes4' ',gentlemen1 no advice1 if you please1' said a voice4 ',pooh6 waiter1' said the ,viscount1 'a beefsteak and potatoes4' ,the waiter1 astonished1 looked at the ,viscount4 ',don't you understand me8' said the latter4 ',but ,i thought that ,monsieur le ,vicomte had made up his bill of fare8' ',that is true1 but this is an extra2 ,i will pay for it separately4' ,the judges looked at each other4 ,the beefsteak and potatoes were brought on1 and were promptly despatched4 ',now for the fish6' ,the fish was brought on4 ',gentlemen1' said the ,viscount1 'it is a trout from ,lake ,geneva4 ,i saw it this morning while ,i was breakfasting2 it was still alive2 it was brought from ,geneva to ,paris in the waters of the lake4 ,i can recommend this fish to you--it is delicious4' ,five minutes later only the bones remained4 ',the pheasant1 waiter6' said the ,viscount4 ,a truffled pheasant was brought on4 ',another bottle of ,bordeaux of the same growth4' ,the second bottle was brought4 ,in ten minutes the pheasant was disposed of4 ',monsieur1' said the waiter1 ',i think you have made a mistake in calling for the truffled pheasant before the salmis of ortolans4' ',ah6 that is so4 ,fortunately it is not stated in what order the ortolans are to be eaten2 otherwise ,i should have lost4 ,the salmis of ortolans1 waiter6' ,the salmis of ortolans was brought on4 ,there were twelve ortolans--twelve mouthfuls for the ,viscount4 ',gentlemen1' said the ,viscount1 'my bill of fare is very simple4 ,now for some asparagus1 green peas1 a banana1 and strawberries4 ,as for wine1 a half-bottle of ,constance and a half-bottle of sherry that has made the voyage to ,india4 ,then1 of course1 some coffee and liqueurs4' ,everything appeared in its turn--vegetables and fruit were conscientiously eaten1 and the wines and liqueurs were drunk to the last drop4 ,the ,viscount was an hour and fourteen minutes in dining4 ',gentlemen1' said he1 'has everything gone right8' ,the judges acquiesced4 ',waiter1 the carte6' ,at this epoch the term addition was not used4 ,the ,viscount ran his eye over the total1 and passed the carte to the judges4 ,this was the carte3 fr4 c4 ,ostende oysters1 #bd dozen #cj ,soup of swallows' nests #aej ,beefsteak and potatoes #b ,trout from ,lake ,geneva #dj ,truffled pheasant #dj ,salmis of ortolans #ej ,asparagus #ae ,bananas #bd ,strawberries #bj ,green peas #ab ,wines4 ,johannisberg1 one bottle #bd ,bordeaux1 grand cr1 two bottles #ej ,constance1 a half-bottle #dj ,sherry1 retour de l',inde1 a half-bottle #ej ,coffee1 liqueurs #a #ej ,total #edh #ej ,the sum total was verified and the carte was taken to the adversary of the ,viscount1 who was dining in an adjoining room4 ,in five minutes he appeared1 saluted the ,viscount1 took six bills of a thousand francs from his pocket1 and presented them to him4 ,it was the amount of the wager4 ',oh1 ,monsieur1' said the ,viscount1 'there was no hurry2 besides1 perhaps you would have liked your revenge4' ',you would have granted it to me8' ',surely6' ',when8' ',immediately4' ,but the reputation of the ,viscount as a belle fourchette was exceeded by that of a ,swiss guard in the employ of the ,marchal de ,villars1 an account of whose prowess is related by the ,journal des ,dfenseurs3 ,one day the guard was sent for by the ,marchal1 who had heard of his enormous appetite4 ',how many sirloins of beef can you eat8' he tentatively asked4 ',ah6 ,monseigneur1 for me ,i don't require many1 five or six at the most4' ',and how many legs of mutton8' ',legs of mutton8 not many--seven to eight4' ',and of fat pullets8' ',oh6 as to pullets1 only a few--a dozen4' ',and of pigeons8' ',as to pigeons1 ,monseigneur1 not many--forty1 perhaps fifty4' ',and larks8' ',larks1 ,monseigneur8--always6' ,another example of marvellous capacity is furnished by the ,french army1 a captain wagering one day that a drummer of his company could eat a whole calf4 ,the drummer1 proud of his distinction1 promised to do honour to the captain's compliment4 ,accordingly1 a calf was prepared in various appetising ways1 and was being promptly disposed of by the drummer4 ,when he had finally consumed about three quarters of the repast1 he paused for another draught of wine1 and1 placing his knife and fork on his plate1 said to his superior officer3 ,you had better have the calf brought on1 had you not8 for all these little kickshaws will end in taking up room4 ,the ,caf de ,paris1 first opened in #ahbb on the ,boulevard des ,italiens in the large suite of apartments formerly occupied by ,prince ,demidoff1 was the best restaurant in ,europe during the forties and in ,dumas' time--a position it probably occupies to-day1 since the closing of ,bignon's4 ,alfred de ,musset was accustomed to say that one could not open its door for less than fifteen francs4 ,but if its charges were high1 its cuisine and service were unsurpassed4 ,those who dance must pay for the piping1 and the cotillion of the casseroles is no exception to the rule4 ,every one who honoured the establishment1 it is said1 was considered by the personnel a grand seigneur for whom nothing could be too good4 ,when ,balzac one day announced the arrival of a distinguished ,russian friend1 he asked the proprietor to put his best foot forward4 ,assuredly1 ,monsieur1 we will do so1 was the answer1 because it is simply what we are in the habit of doing every day4 ,balzac's favourite dish was veau la casserole1 a specialty of the ,caf de ,paris in the forties4 ,rossini1 a contemporary and friend of ,balzac and ,dumas1 was not alone a famous musician1--composer of ,tell and the ,stabat ,mater1--but was also a distinguished fourchette and a cook of ability4 ,one of his most celebrated compositions--that of a certain manner of preparing macaroni which is said to have vied in seductiveness with the sweetest strains of the ,barbier de ,seville--is unfortunately lost to the world through a prejudice of ,dumas4 ,one day the great romancist1 who never ate macaroni in any form1 asked the noted composer for his recipe1 being anxious to add it to his culinary repertoire4 ,come and eat some with me to-morrow at dinner1 and you shall have it1 was the answer4 ,but the host1 perceiving that his guest would not touch a dish on which he had bestowed so much pains1 refused to give him the formula1 whereupon ,dumas circulated the report that it was his cook1 not ,rossini1 who was master of the secret1 and forthwith presented at length a recipe given him by the famous ,mme4 ,ristori as the true1 the only1 the unique manner of preparing macaroni la napolitaine4 ,already in #ahcj the excessive charges of the fashionable restaurants were loudly complained of4 ,on this subject the ,nouvel ,almanach des ,gourmands of that date says3 ,the ,boulevard ,italien is the privileged seat of the cafs-restaurants3 there one may dine excellently1 but it must be confessed one is cruelly plucked4 ,from this fact has arisen the proverb1 ',one must be very hardy to dine at the ,caf ,riche1 and very rich to dine at the ,caf ,hardi4' ,may it not be added that one needs to be an ,english peer to dine at the ,caf ,anglais1 and a millionaire ,parisian to try the ,caf de ,paris8 ,one may dine well at ,vry's1 but one will ruin himself2 while the fish which is excellent at the ,rocher de ,cancale is scarcely exchanged for its weight in five-franc pieces4 ,often in the midst of a dinner1 on tasting of some novel dish at his favourite restaurant1 the ,caf de ,paris1 ,dumas would lay down his fork--,i must get the recipe of this dish4 ,the proprietor was then sent for to authorise the novelist to descend to the kitchens and hold a consultation with his chefs4 ,he was the only one of the habitus to whom this privilege was ever allowed2 these excursions were usually followed by an invitation to dine with ,dumas a few days later1 when his newly acquired knowledge would be put into practice4 ,there were those1 nevertheless1 that previous to the advent of the ,dictionary were sceptical as to ,dumas' culinary accomplishments4 ,among such was ,dr4 ,vron1 author of the ,mmoires and founder of the ,revue de ,paris1 who1 with several other notabilities1 had been invited by the novelist to partake of a carp of his own preparation4 ,for days and days ,vron1 who was extremely fond of fish1 talked of nothing else to his cordon-bleu4 ,where did you taste it8 said ,sophie1 becoming somewhat jealous of this praise of others1--at the ,caf de ,paris8 ,no1--at ,monsieur ,dumas'4 ,well1 then1 ,i'll go to ,monsieur ,dumas' cook and get the recipe4 ,that's of no use1 objected her master4 ,monsieur ,dumas prepared the dish himself4 ,well1 then1 ,i'll go to ,monsieur ,dumas himself and ask him to give me the recipe4 ,sophie was as good as her word1 and at once betook herself to the ,chausse d',antin4 ,the great novelist felt flattered1 and gave her every possible information1 but somehow the dish was not like that her master had so much enjoyed at his friend's4 ,then ,sophie grew morose1 and began to throw out hints about the great man's borrowing other people's feathers in his culinary pursuits1 just as he did in his literary ones4 ,it is with his carp as with his novels--others write them1 and he merely adds his name1 she said one day4 ,i have seen him2 he is a grand diable de vaniteux4 ,influenced by his cook's remarks and the failure of the dish1 and forgetting that surroundings often add much to flavour1 ,vron1 on his part1 felt inclined to think that ,dumas had a clever chef in the background1 upon whose victories he plumed himself4 ,a few days afterwards1 meeting ,vron at the ,caf de ,paris1 ,dumas inquired after the result of ,sophie's efforts4 ,the doctor was reticent at first1 not caring to acknowledge ,sophie's failure4 ,when one of the company at last mentioned the suspicions attached to the carp1 ,dumas became furious4 ,then1 after a pause1 he said1 ,there is but one reply to such a charge3 you will all dine with me to-morrow1 and you will choose a delegate who will come to my house at three to see me prepare the dinner4 ,i was the youngest1 says the author of ,an ,englishman in ,paris1 who relates the story1 and the choice fell upon me4 ,that is how my lifelong friendship with ,dumas began4 ,at three o'clock next day ,i was at the ,chausse d',antin1 and was taken by the servant into the kitchen1 where the great novelist stood surrounded by his utensils1 some of silver1 and all of them glistening like silver4 ,with the exception of a soupe aux choux1 at which1 by his own confession1 he had been at work since the morning1 all the ingredients for the dinner were in their natural state--of course1 washed and peeled1 but nothing more4 ,he was assisted by his own cook and a kitchen-maid1 but he himself1 with his sleeves rolled up to the elbows1 a large apron round his waist1 and bare chest1 conducted the operations4 ,i do not think ,i have ever seen anything more entertaining1 and ,i came to the conclusion that when writers insisted upon the culinary challenges of ,carme1 ,duglr1 and ,casimir they were not indulging in mere metaphor4 ,at half-past six the guests began to arrive2 at a quarter to seven ,dumas retired to his dressing-room2 at seven punctually the servant announced that 'monsieur tait servi4' ,the dinner consisted of the aforenamed soupe aux choux1 the carp that had led to the invitation1 a ragot de mouton la ,hongroise1 rti de faisans1 and a salade ,japonaise4 ,the sweets and ices had been sent by the ptissier4 ,i never dined like that before or after--not even a week later1 when ,dr4 ,vron and ,sophie made the amende honorable in the ,rue ,taitbout4 ,as a sample of ,dumas' abilities in the petite cuisine1 his potage aux choux may be cited1--his mode of preparing ,sauerkraut1 like that of all ,french cooks1 is not to be commended3 ,take a sound fresh cabbage1 hash up all the remains of fowl and game that may be on hand1 and have a good yesterday's bouillon1 which pour in place of ordinary water on the beef intended for the day's bouillon4 ,then cover the bottom of the stewpan with a slice of fine ham1 remove the leaves of the cabbage1 and introduce the forcemeat1 tying up the leaves afterwards so it will not be perceptible4 ,boil two hours1 filling with the bouillon of the pot-au-feu as the bouillon of the boiling diminishes4 ,after removing the bouillon from the fire1 let the bouillon1 cabbage1 forcemeat1 and ham simmer together for three quarters of an hour in the stewpan1 give a last turn to the bouillon1 serve your cabbage in the soup-tureen1 allow it to cool a minute1 and serve4 ,then you may have the choice of eating your cabbage in the soup1 or of soaking some bread in the bouillon and making of your cabbage a relev of the soup4 ,cooked in this manner1 the cabbage1 the bouillon1 and the meat1 each lending a part of its properties to the other1 attain the greatest sapidity it is possible for them to attain4 ,this is the potage aux choux4 ,the soupe aux choux is another matter that sounds equally appetising and has the advantage to the eye of puffing up the cabbage to far larger dimensions4 ,the extended remarks on the pot-au-feu itself are well worth the careful attention of the housewife2 the author declaring that the ,french cuisine owes its superiority to that of other nations to the excellence of its bouillon4 ,seven hours of slow and continuous boiling1 he maintains1 are necessary for it to acquire all the requisite qualities1 i4 e41 to faire sourire the soup4 ,the term1 smile1 is happily chosen4 ,every piece of bread in a good crote-au-pot wears a smile1 and every dancing globule that remains after the skimmer has performed its office is a dimple on its face4 ,of the basting of meats--and herein the average cook stands in need of constant advice and still more constant watching--he has this to say 7he is speaking of a truffled turkey after the recipe of the ,marquis de ,cussy1 which he suggests might be called ,dinde des ,artistes73 ,above all1 never moisten your roasts1 of whatever nature they may be1 except with butter mixed with salt and pepper4 ,a cook who allows a single drop of bouillon in the dripping-pan should be instantly discharged and banished from ,france4 ,one of the brightest chapters of the volume is an essay which appears in the appendix--a eulogium of a certain mustard1 in which ,dumas out-,reynires ,reynire4 ,but one may overlook the subtle puffery that sheds a halo over the product of ,m4 ,bornibus1 in view of the vast erudition the writer displays and the grace with which the topic is invested4 ,the essay first appeared in ,monselet's entertaining ,almanach ,gourmand of #ahfi1 the etymology of the word having been the subject of a wager between the writer and some of his friends4 ,of ,dumas it may be said1 as it has been said of the truffle1 he embellishes everything he touches2 or1 to paraphrase ,savarin's definition1 ,qui dit ,dumas1 prononce un grand mot4 ,among the most distinguished of modern professional cooks was ,jules ,gouff1 former officier de bouche of the ,jockey ,club of ,paris1 whose ,livre de ,cuisine and ,livre de ,ptisserie are unexcelled as guides to the greatest triumphs of the art of which they treat4 ,the ,livre de ,cuisine1 which first appeared in #ahfe1 is not a manual that can be utilised in the ordinary establishment1 however2 but a volume on a grand scale1 written by a great chef for chefs4 ,francatelli1 though very elaborate1 is much more simple4 ,at any rate1 it is possible to simplify his recipes1 or to derive many new ideas from them1 even where his formulas may not be executed in the average household4 ,but to follow ,gouff calls for the very highest professional skill and the most lavish expenditure1--the hand of a master1 a larder of cockscombs1 crawfish1 truffles1 plover and pheasants' eggs1 not to mention a cellar of ,chteau ,margaux1 champagne1 and ,chablis ,moutonne4 ,his recipe for quails la financire1 one of his nine elaborate ways of preparing the bird1 will serve as well as any for illustration3 ,truss eight quails as for braising1 put them in a stewpan1 cover them with thin slices of fat bacon1 pour in one gill of ,madeira and one half pint of mirepoix1 and let simmer until the quails are cooked4 ,fill a plain border-mould one and a quarter inches high with chicken forcemeat1 poach it au bain-marie1 and turn the border out of the mould into a dish and fill the centre with a financire ragot made of foies gras1 truffles1 cockscombs1 cocks'-kernels1 and chicken forcemeat quenelles mixed in financire sauce4 ,drain the quails1 untie them1 and place them half on the border1 half on the ragot1 the leg towards the centre1 put a cockscomb between each quail1 and a large truffle in the centre2 glaze the border1 the quails1 and truffle with a brush dipped in glaze1 and serve with financire sauce4 ,with ,jules ,gouff1 ,urbain-,dubois1 a chef of the highest order1 and author of six important works on cookery1 will be known to posterity as one of the greatest masters of the range of the second half of the nineteenth century4 ,in marked contrast to those of ,gouff and ,dubois are the numerous culinary works of ,ildefonse-,lon ,brisse1 more familiarly known as ,baron ,brisse1 and who was sometimes termed the ,baron ,falstaff4 ,two of his manuals1 moulded on somewhat similar lines1 are excellent mentors for the modest household--,the #cff ,menus 7#ahfh7 and ,la ,petite ,cuisine 7#ahgj71 of which many editions have appeared4 ,in these a large number of good1 uncommon1 and simple dishes are presented1 and both works may be comprehended by all who have a fair practical knowledge of cookery at command4 ,according to ,thodore de ,banville1 ,baron ,brisse was at once an accomplished cook1 a fine and delicate gourmet1 and a gourmand always tormented with an insatiable hunger4 ,it may therefore be assumed that all his recipes have been personally tested1 and that those he particularly recommends are well worthy of trial1 bearing out the sentiment he expresses in the preface to ,la ,petite ,cuisine1--,this book is a good action for which ,i will be duly credited in this world or the other4 ,besides his numerous volumes on cookery1 he founded and contributed to several culinary journals4 ,he laughed and ate4 ,he was of enormous stature1 and always was obliged to secure two places in the diligence between ,paris and his home at ,fontenay-aux-,roses1 where he resided previous to his death in #ahgf4 ,with ,jules ,gouff he instituted a series of dinners where the guests were expected to dine in white frocks and round white caps1 like the fat old cooks that ,roland has painted--dinners presided over by the baron1 whose bonhomie was proverbial1 and executed under the directions of ,gouff himself4 ,but apart from his excellent cookery-books1 ,baron ,brisse should be held in abiding reverence by all entertainers that are worthy of the name1 if only for his splendid axiom1--,the host whose guest has been obliged to ask him for anything is a dishonoured man6 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,day',s ,,closing ,,hour ,from the etching by ,charles ,jacque ,illustration ,,the ,,cook',s ,,confr,,re ,les vs courtes1 je veux dire les esprits bornez et resserrez dans leur petite sphre1 ne peuvent comprendre cette universalit de talens que l'on remarque quelquefois dans un mme sujet4--,,la ,,bruyere3 ,du ,mrite ,personnel4 ,it were ungracious to trace the development of gastronomy further1 or to peruse its literature at greater length1 without rendering justice to the chief cause of its progress1 deprived of which a ,carme and a ,gouff were impossible1 and cookery1 from a fine art1 would resolve itself into a perfunctory obligation4 ,the reader who has followed the writer thus far will surely not require to be told that the great evolutionist of the table is neither the cook nor yet the range or the pot-au-feu so much as the quadruped that ,rome once selected for its badge and cognisance4 ,a tout seigneur1 tout honneur6--let us not be unmindful of the inestimable benefits the hog has conferred upon mankind4 ,where1 indeed1 may one find that universality of talents referred to by ,la ,bruyre so combined in a single individual as in the animal which the short-sighted and narrow-minded has so unjustly maligned8 ,to what utilities does he not lend and blend himself1 and where among ,ungulata or ruminators terrene were his substitute--a pice de rsistance for the poor1 a jouissance and benison for all4 ,if we accept the testimony of various pagan writers1 pork1 of which the ancients were so fond1 originally came into use about a thousand years after the deluge1 when ,ceres1 having sown a field of wheat1 found it invaded one day by a pig4 ,this so incensed the goddess that she forthwith punished the offender with death1 and afterwards1 having him cooked1 discovered his superior virtues--to set the example of utilising him as food4 ,the usual corn-cob placed in the mouth of a freshly killed porker1 therefore1 not only reflects the delicacy of his tastes1 but is also classic in a measure--a symbol of his intimate relationship with mythology and his place amid the ,graces4 ,by the ancient ,egyptians the flesh of the swine was held to be impure4 ,so was that of the camel1 the cony1 and the hare2 so also the fat of the ox or of sheep or of goat4 ,every beast of the wood or the hedge or the burrow1 over and above the beasts of the chase and the warren1 according to the ancient writers1 is to be called 'rascal4' ,the hog is likewise placed under ban by the ,hindus and strict ,buddhists1 and is still generally regarded as unclean by the ,mohammedans4 ,but the ,mohammedans and ,hindus have no cuisine worthy of the name1 and what were a cuisine without the resources supplied by his inexhaustible larder6 ,the religious tenet of the ,israelites by which the swine is proscribed as an article of diet is honoured more in the breach than in the observance4 ,the ,chinese have ever been fond of his savoury flesh1 and it may be said that with nearly all nations he forms one of the leading staples of consumption4 ,with the onion and that priceless herb parsley1 which stimulates appetite1 facilitates digestion1 and renders nearly all sauces more attractive1 he forms one of the most indispensable adjuncts of alimentation4 ,deprived of his lardship1 the onion tribe1 and parsley1 cookery would soon decline1 if indeed the skilled practitioner would not find it well-nigh impossible to exercise his art4 ,despite what slanderous tongues of the ,east may utter to his discredit1 therefore1 the weight of evidence as to his utility remains overwhelmingly in his favour4 ,we do not necessarily require him in our parlours2 his true place is the kitchen and the dining-room4 ,think how unendurable life would be without him6 ,of all beasts he is the one whose empire is most universal1 and whose worth is least attested4 ,it is true that a eulogistic but now unprocurable work of forty-eight pages was written in ,modena in #agfa by ,d4 ,giuseppe ,ferrari1 with the title ,gli ,elogi del ,porco4 ,a treatise entitled ,dissertation sur le ,cochon1 by ,m4 ,buc'hoz1 published in #aghi1 is also cited4 ,but as this appeared in a series of monographs relating to coffee1 cacao1 and various fruits1 and has been passed by without comment1 it probably treats the quadruped merely from a sordid point of view1 and possesses no interest unless to the husbandman and stock-raiser4 ,few have sung his praises1 and1 with the exception of ,southey's colloquial poem1 no genethliac has been addressed to him in ,english rhyme4 ,monselet has apostrophised him in a poem wherein he terms him cher ange1 and ,m4 ,pouvoisin1 in ,la ,mort du ,goret1 has tenderly referred to him as mon frre4 ,his oraison funbre is worthy of ,bossuet3 ,fameux par sa naissance et par son leveur1 ,il est mort1 le goret1 clbre tant de titres3 ,c'est un deuil1 mais un deuil qui n'est pas sans saveur2 ,versons des pleurs1 amis1 surtout versons des litres6 ,il tait si mignon1 si lard1 si soyeux3 ,nous l'aimions6 ,maintenant qu'il a subi la flamme1 ,qu'il est accommod1 qu'il est dlicieux2 ,nous lui servons de tombe1 et nous en mangeons l'me4 ,dans la profonde paix des estomacs gourmands1 ,son chine avec sa fressure vont descendre2 ,il n'avait pas rv1 dans ses gras ronflements1 ,d'un semblable caveau pour contenir sa cendre4 ,c'est un honneur bien d4 ,quel que soit ton regret ,des repas plantureux1 du son1 de l'auge pleine1 ,tu peux t'enorgueillir1 mon frre1 goret4 ,nous allons te changer1 nous1 en substance humaine6 7,of birth renowned1 entitled well to boast1 ,and reared with care1 the little pig is dead3 ,we sorrow1 but we scent the savoury roast1 ,and mix a bumper while our tears we shed4 ,we loved him1 silky-soft1 and plump1 and fine1 ,and now that he has felt the crisping fire ,we wait his soul and body to enshrine1 ,a morsel for an epicure's desire4 ,he little thought1 when grunting in his pen1 ,that1 seasoned thus to tickle gourmand taste1 ,his chine would glide down throats of feasting men1 ,and to a noble tomb within us haste4 ,regret not1 little pig1 thine early fate3 ,honours are thine beyond the fattening sty1-- ,we eat thee1 brother1 and incorporate ,thy substance1 thus1 in our humanity47#cj ,another poet1 in a ,hymn to the ,truffle1 has accorded him a semi-complimentary stanza1 referring to him as a useful animal4 ,a mediocre sonnet has also been addressed to him by ,ernest d',hervilly in a series of seven tributes to the oyster1 the pig1 the gudgeon1 the rabbit1 the roebuck1 the herring1 and the lobster4 ,man's ingratitude toward him1 as ,grimod de la ,reynire remarks in the ,almanach1 has basely reviled the name of the animal that is the most useful to the human race when he is no more4 ,he is treated as the ,abb ,geoffroy treats ,voltaire2 his memory is defamed whilst his flesh is being savoured1 and he is repaid with ironical contempt for the ineffable pleasures he procures for us4 ,his classic ,porcosity6 sacred to ,thor1 patron of ,st4 ,anthony1 the device of ,richard ,,iii1 the favourite animal of ,morland and ,jacque1 how ungenerously he has been treated6 ,all his habits are gross1 all his appetites are impure2 his stomach is unbounded and his gluttony unparalleled1 say his calumniators4 ,yet1 in fact1 he is no more unclean than most domestic beasts1 any lapses in this respect being due to man and to the evil communications to which he has been subjected under domestication4 ,the wild hog is proverbially cleanly1 and is almost exclusively a vegetarian4 ,in his natural state his courage is undaunted4 ,the peccary will challenge the jaguar1 while the wild boar is not unfrequently victorious in his combats with the tiger himself4 ,in this animal1 says ,beauvilliers1 there is almost nothing to cast aside4 ,without him there were1 in truth1 an aching void and an empty cuisine1--no lard1 no hams1 no bacon2 no sausages1 no spare-rib1 no larded filets and game2 no truffles and scientifically blended pts2 no souse or headcheese2 no ,dissertation on ,roast ,pig2 no chine with rising bristles roughly spread4 ,his ways are ways of fatness1 and all his paths are progressive4 ,he not only seeks to instruct1 like ,virgil2 but seeks to please1 like ,theocritus4 ,civilisation radiates from him as light from a prism4 ,with his increase culture advances1 wealth accumulates1 and cookery improves4 ,and think of the services of his ploughshare to the farmer1 whose orchards in many cases would otherwise remain untilled6 ,his unctuous ,lardship6 the very fat and marrow of the stock-exchange1 the grease of the commercial wheel4 ,did he not directly furnish the inspiration to ,dubufe for one of the grandest paintings the world has produced--the ,return of the ,prodigal ,son who shared his husks--to say nothing of ,hogarth and the ,scottish poet ,hogg1 whose ode ,to a ,skylark is scarcely excelled by ,shelley's1 and whose ,kilmeny is enduring among poetic strains8 ,and what were the spirited hunting scenes of ,weenix1 ,sneyders1 and ,oudry without the great wild boar8 ,in the fourth canto of ,the ,faerie ,queene he is pictured as the symbol of gluttony3 ,and by his side rode loathsome ,gluttony1 ,deformd creature on a filthy swine4 ,his belly was upblown with luxury1 ,and eke with fatness swollen was his eyne4 ,full of diseases was his carcass blew1 ,and a dry ,dropsie through his flesh did flow1 ,which by misdiet daily greater grew2 ,such one was ,gluttony1 the second of that crew4 ,but is he a glutton8 and has he not been outrageously reviled by ,spenser as well as by the poets in general8 ,is it fair to accept the dogmas and predications concerning his status1 his vulgarity1 and his voracity that have been bequeathed him from time immemorial8 ,is he not a gourmet rather than a gourmand8 ,does he not infinitely prefer the smallest truffle of ,prigord to the hugest pumpkin of the fat prairies of the ,west8 ,not only inordinately fond of the truffle1 without which a pt de foie gras were a flower without perfume1 he is the great hunter of this highly prized esculent1 recognising with ,autolycus that a good nose is requisite to smell out work for the other senses4 ,yet even then he is thanklessly treated by man1 who1 instead of remunerating him with an occasional tuber1 grudgingly tosses him a few kernels of corn4 ,the despised razorback of the ,south1 in like manner1 steadfastly performs his mission of waging war upon the rattlesnake without ever having been chosen as the emblem of a ,state4 ,to the epicure he must ever bring to mind the perfumed product of the sunny provinces of ,guienne and ,dauphin1 the artists of ,alsace1 and the ,wurstmachereis of ,germany4 ,his fondness for the truffle1 as instanced in the wild boar1 far exceeds that of the hare1 the squirrel1 and the deer2 and although the basset-hound and sheep-dog are also of service in locating the tuber1 the pig not only points it1 but deftly uproots it for the greedy hand of man4 ,the pig seeks it by instinct2 the dog1 through long and patient training4 ,the pig's education is accomplished in a few lessons by obtaining his confidence and appealing to his epicurean taste4 ,a boiled potato accompanied with a few truffle peelings is placed in a mound of sand1 after finding which the animal is rewarded by a few chestnuts1 acorns1 or kernels of maize--and the rest is left to his infallible memory4 ,in fact1 the discovery of the truffle is due to the animal under consideration4 ,his long snout1 says ,la ,reynire1 perceived the odour of this treasure at a depth of several metres4 ,up to this time1 without a doubt1 it had been reserved for the table of some evil genius jealous of the happiness of man2 by his cunning he concealed it from the researches of the scientist1 and some fairy1 a friend of the human race1 charged the pig1 whose keen scent the goblin had forgotten to forefend1 to mine the buried marvel and bring it to the light of day4 ,however this may be1 the first pig that discovered the truffle had excellent taste2 there is no bel esprit to-day who is not eager to imitate him4#ca ,the boar's head1 likewise1 how suggestive of good cheer6 ,it at once takes one back to the great baronial dining-halls1 the ,knights of the ,round ,table1 and the feasts and wassails of eld4 ,it suggests the joyous festivals of harvest-home and ,yule1 with the chief table on the dais and the tables for retainers and servants1 when the family and attendants assembled amid the blaze of the great hearth-fire and the music of the harpers and minstrels4 ,again1 consider his lovely appetite1 exquisite digestion1 and imperturbable slumbers that many a millionaire would gladly part with half his riches to obtain4 ,the papill of his tongue are never furred by dyspepsia1 flatulence1 gout1 or the spleen4 ,proverbially on the best of terms with his stomach1 he needs no podophyllin1 bicarbonates1 or ,hunyadi4 ,sudden variations of temperature affect him not1 while all latitudes are equally conducive to his longevity4 ,ennui is to him unknown1 and life is never a burden1 unless it be the trifling burden of the weight he carries4 ,he sleeps and eats and digests1 and in his own way solves the problem of content that is still unsolved by man4 ,his blithesome ,porkship6 his graces steal into the heart insensibly if one be a minute philosopher4 ,no cock-crowing or turkey-gobbling1 no lowing of kine or bleating of flocks1 no screaming of hawks or cawing of crows may vie as an expression of the rural landscape with his complacent grunt of satisfaction and high-piping ,pehlevi of triumph4 ,a vibrant chord of melody when snouted and bristled disputants crowd and jostle around the trough or squeal and scramble within the pen1 it yet requires a more potent mediumship to draw forth in its fullest measure the piercing treble of the porcine lyre4 ,rather let us hear it1 arrectis auribus1 rising sonorously along the highway or drifting adown some reverberant lane1 with the dog as the plectrum of the ham-strings4 ,thomson1 less gracious but more observant than ,lamb1 recognised his accomplishments as a lyrist1 and in a stanza in ,the ,castle of ,indolence1 a complement to the stanza cited from ,the ,faerie ,queene1 thus apostrophises his power of song3 ,ev'n so through ,brentford town1 a town of mud1 ,an herd of bristly swine is pricked along2 ,the filthy beasts that never chew the cud ,still grunt and squeak1 and sing their troublous song1 ,and oft they plunge themselves the mire among3 ,but aye the ruthless driver goads them on1 ,and aye of barking dogs the bitter throng ,make them renew their unmelodious moan2 ,ne ever find they rest from their unresting fone4 ,like ,spenser1 ,thomson has grossly traduced him1 except so far as his musical gifts are concerned1 though in this respect he might have been more discriminating in the use of his adjectives4 ,why troublous and unmelodious1 in place of expressing his thrilling arpeggio of song8 ,but it is for qualities more sterling than those of a vocal nature that the confrre of the cook deserves recognition4 ,he has his trifling faults1 to be sure--who is without them8 ,he is obstinate in being driven to market1 perhaps1 knowing the fate which awaits him1 and possibly his assurance may be somewhat obnoxious at public gatherings4 ,it is admitted also that his savoir faire at table1 while distinguished for aplomb1 is not entirely without alloy4 ,but although the ill-mannered among his tribe occasionally thrust their feet not under but upon the mahogany1 and are sometimes guilty of elbowing one another at mealtime1 yet it must be conceded that they are never late at their engagements to dine2 neither do they ever commit that unpardonable breach of etiquette--eating with a knife4 ,it is a belle fourchette rather than a fine blade they ply4 ,the late ,horace ,greeley1 to repeat a well-known story1 tells of a farmer who drove a herd of ,yorkshires to market1-- ,when meads with slime were sprent1 and ways with mire1-- the march proving so fatiguing to his charges that they shrank in flesh and had to be disposed of at a sacrifice on finally arriving at their destination4 ,when asked on his return how much he had realised from the transaction1 he replied he had made nothing out of his charges themselves--he had had the pleasure of their company1 though4 ,this point1 through a singular oversight1--the idea is the same and equally charming everywhere1--,leigh ,hunt has not touched upon in his essay ,on the ,graces and ,anxieties of ,pig-,driving4 ,it may be of interest to those whose manuscripts have been rejected to know that ,hunt's exquisite conceit was refused by the magazine to which it was addressed1 but fortunately it was not on this account consigned to the waste-basket1 but lives and is embalmed with ,lamb's dissertation4 ,i could never understand to this day1 writes ,hunt in his autobiography1 what it is that made the editor of a magazine reject an article which ,i wrote1 with the mock-heroic title of ',the ,graces and ,anxieties of ,pig-,driving4' ,i used to think he found something vulgar in the title4 ,he declared it was not he who rejected it1 but the proprietor of the magazine4 ,the proprietor1 on the other hand1 declared that it was not he who rejected it1 but the editor4 ,i published it in a magazine of my own1 ',the ,companion1' and found it hailed as one of my best pieces of writing4 ,this reference of ,hunt's recalls a piquant pigramme of lamb that is not down in the cook-books4 ,it was when the writer was taking his departure from an old ,paris bookstall1 a number of years ago1 that1 as he turned to leave1 the proprietor remarked3 ,monsieur perhaps might like to glance at an ,english work1 'sur l',agneau1' which came in with some other volumes recently4 ,the volume in question referred1 indeed1 to lamb1 and proved to be the excessively rare first edition of ,the ,essays of ,elia 7,london1 #ahbc74 ,it was slightly foxed1 but otherwise in excellent condition1 and contained some marginal annotations in manuscript4 ,on carefully examining the handwriting1 we became convinced it was that of ,charles ,lamb--there could be no possible doubt of it4 ,the only writing on the fly-leaf was1 ,to ,w4 ,w41 from ,c4 ,l4--the ,w4 ,w4 presumably being ,william ,wordsworth4 ,in the volume1 since attired by the binder as it deserves1 are several slight alterations in ,the ,south ,sea ,house1 and some addenda to ,valentine's ,day4 ,but by far the most important annotation occurs in ,a ,dissertation on ,roast ,pig4 ,it is apparent at a glance that this was a serious afterthought ere the volume left the author's hands and the types confronted him with any lapses he had made--an apology1 in fact1 on the part of the author for whatever reference might be considered disparaging or in any wise inconsiderate as regards the worth of the elder animal4 ,for1 in consistency1 a jewel that sparkles throughout the pages of ,elia1 the parents might not be reviled without reflecting upon the children4 ,moreover1 however mild and dulcet a nursling pigling1 roasted secundum artem1 may be to those of educated tastes1 it is a dish that cloys from its very mellifluence if repeated too often1 whereas in pork matured it is invariably a case of cut and come again4 ,from the volume and chapter in question we transcribe the annotation1 verbatim et literatim1 where it follows1 as a postscript1 the concluding line1 he is a weakling--a flower3 ,methinks my mind 7animadverted by the infant pearl7 hath been too evasive4 ,there is he who1 having shed the downy robes of childhood1 is clad in the toga virilis of a glorious chief4 ,hast thou ever on occasion savoured his matured nether extremities1 if haply thou wert blessed with an appetite and appreciation commensurate with their unctuous worth8 ,regard those feet--those parsley-garnished feet6 ,see the pearly whiteness of the ankles1 the coral pink of the petitoes6 ,meseems a man might arise in the small hours of a winter morning to savour such a dish4 ,it should summon the shade of ,lucullus4 ,it should not only reconcile man to his lot1 but it should render him thankful for it4 ,imagine the passion of a stricken youth 7stricken by the pedal glories and faultless poise of a ,taglioni71 and then note by comparison the exalted rapture which should be engendered by such feet as these6 ,in wandering through ,covent ,garden market1 and passing from floral dreams to the vegetables1 ,i often pause before the peas4 ,do ,i yearn for them in their adolescence8 do ,i associate them with the duckling and the lamb8 ,nay2 ,i await a time when they shall have folded and creased within themselves their perfected saccharine excellence1 to be released in the kitchen of the winter4 ,i can see a pig--a pig of one hundred and eighty pounds--classical in all the tints of its marble freshness4 ,it sheds its internal graces in an excellent and cleanly market4 ,with deft execution the white-aproned purveyor removes a spare-rib from a side4 ,then in front of the site of the spare-rib there remains an area of unequalled promise--a tract of the most delightsome possibilities4 ,let a piece be cut about fourteen inches long and eight wide1 when after it has hung two or three days1 ,i counsel thee to submerge it in sweet pickle for a week4 ,then boil it with a quart of the garden peas1 with a shred1 a hint1 a sigh of onion4 ,allow it to cool1 and when freed of every vestige of vegetable matter1 place it in a garnished dish4 ,no poem ever stirred the human heart1 no slab of tessellated pavement ever fired the archologist1 with respectful interest akin to that evoked by this entrancing esculent4 ,it is a fresh wave in the sea of sapors--an approximation1 a convolution of two entities divinely transfused1 which to conceive1 it must be tasted4 ,it elevates the sense of taste to the highest pinnacle of human aspiration4 ,it is a memory to inspire gentle thoughts and tranquillize the mind2 a presence that is a beatitude1 and that looms in the visions of the future as a thing to live for4 ,less secretive than communicative in most of his ways1 the hog is nevertheless an enigma as regards his natural term of life4 ,not that for a moment his native modesty forbids his announcing his age1 or that his lease of life equals that of ,epimenides1 but that1 owing to circumstances over which he has no control1--the greed and voracity of man1--he is handicapped from proclaiming the full extent of his longevity4 ,the natural age of a hog's life is little known1 observes the learned ,hampshire rector-naturalist2 and the reason is plain--because it is neither profitable nor convenient to keep that turbulent animal to the full extent of its time4 ,the man were a dolt who would take exceptions to ,white's natural-history observations1 so lucidly and delightfully set forth in the pages of ,selborne4 ,and yet1 so great was his sympathy for all animals and dumb creatures1 may not the term turbulent have been possibly a slip of the pen or fault of the types for buoyant or complacent1 with no malice prepense1 as in the case of ,spenser and the generality of the poets8 ,his bonhomie and engaging nature are seldom considered1 unless by a few humanitarians or interested trainers of animals4 ,yet what possibilities does he not present as a companion to man1 were man not so eager for his slaughter1 and were he to receive the same encouragements as the cat and the dog6 ,a case is cited by ,frank ,buckland of a hog at ,guildford that followed its master daily on his walks1 and whose instinct1 agility1 and affection could be equalled only by the canine species4 ,hamerton also mentions a wild boar in ,france which became domesticated and regularly accompanied his master to the village church and would not be excluded1 but came at last1 by the toleration of the cur1 to hear mass like a ,christian1 till finally he grew to an alarming size and was sold to a travelling menagerie4 ,the hog has been known in numerous instances to set and retrieve various kinds of game with an intelligence equal to that of the most blue-blooded pointer or setter1 and even to exceed the canine species in acuteness of scent and staunchness4 ,a wager was once made in ,england that with a hog trained on game the owner could kill more grouse on the moors than either of his two competitors with their dogs1 the result being considerably in favour of the challenging party4 ,if the pig had wings and could soar above the hedges1 says an appreciative writer in the old ,german ,kreuterbuch1 he would be regarded as the best and most magnificent of fowls6 ,is he not1 moreover1 with his boon companion the domestic goose 7likewise a douceur of the table when served with applesauce71 one of the most reliable of weather prophets1 becoming restless and uttering loud cries at the approach of a storm8 ,in any event1 whatever deprivation the non-development of his social qualities may have occasioned1 he still shines supreme as a utilitarian1 a stimulus to gastronomy1 and a promoter of the polite arts4 ,some there are1 perchance1 who have cursorily regarded the obligations we owe him as a purveyor of our comforts so far as relates to the hair-brushes1 tooth-brushes1 and nail-brushes he has kindly provided4 ,the saddler and trunk-maker no doubt appreciate him after a fashion1 as did the conscientious bookbinder of old1 with whom he figured indirectly as a confrre in belles-lettres4 ,but who among the recipients of his many bounties has paused to consider the inestimable influence he has exercised upon one of the greatest of the romantic or fine arts1 without which the most celebrated canvases of the world had never existed1 and the art of painting1 if not utterly abandoned1 must languish of necessity for lack of his bristles to lay on the pigments8 ,for1 with the exception of the minute brushes made from the soft fur of the red sable for detail work1 he contributes1 if not the artist's genius itself1 at least the chief vehicle with which it is possible to render it enduring4 ,one by one he has felt the pictures of ,raphael1 ,titian1 ,correggio1 and ,guido pulsate beneath the artist's brush2 while later1 in another land1 he was instrumental in fixing the harmonics of ,velasquez's and ,murillo's marvellous colouring4 ,he has witnessed the growing fame of ,turner and surveyed the miles of glowing flesh that ,rubens has painted4 ,with ,watteau and ,boucher1 he has gazed on many a fair shepherdess and pastoral scene1 and1 with ,jacque and ,mauve1 helped the shepherd drive his fleecy flock4 ,he has basked in the sunny atmosphere of ,cuyp1 ,wynants1 and ,van der ,neer1 and watched the radiant face of woman assume a heightened charm through the genius of ,lely and ,reynolds4 ,he has viewed the frail beauties of the harem with ,grme1 and marked the roseate twilight deepen over ,venice with ,ziem4 ,a silent spectator of the great pageant of ,art1 he has beheld ,le ,brun and ,vernet depict the carnage of the battle-field1 and ,poussin1 ,claude1 and ,constable open enchanting vistas of landscape4 ,contemplating the progress of modern art1 he sees ,diaz and ,daubigny1 ,bouguereau and ,meissonier1 ,vibert and ,verestchagin1 ,corot and ,inness1 and how many others6 seated upon the throne of undying fame and wielding the sceptre which he himself has supplied4 ,his illustrious ,bristleousness6 ,were it not for man's ingratitude and his overpowering worth upon the shambles1 he would long since have been canonised and figure as the joint symbol of the useful and the romantic arts4 ,consider him likewise in his ferine state as most closely related to nature1 moving majestically through the fastnesses of his native stronghold1 toothed and tushed for war1 indigenous and mighty as the oaks which yield him their mast or the trees of the jungles through which he treads4 ,the jungle path is his as much as the tiger's1 writes the ,indian sportsman and naturalist1 ,shakespeare2 the native shikarries affirm that the wild boar will quench his thirst at the river between two tigers1 and ,i believe this to be strictly the truth4 ,the tiger and the boar have been heard fighting in the jungle at night1 and both have been found dead alongside of one another in the morning4 ,it was a wild boar that slew ,adonis2 and by none1 not even by ,bary1 has the animal been more vividly depicted than by ,shakespeare in the warning of ,venus3 ',thou hadst boon gone1' quoth she1 'sweet boy1 ere this ,but that thou told'st me thou wouldst hunt the boar4 ,o be advised6 thou know'st not what it is ,with javelin's point a churlish swine to gore1 ,whose tushes1 never sheathed1 he whetteth still1 ,like to a mortal butcher1 bent to kill4 ',on his bow-back he hath a battle set ,of bristly pikes1 that ever threat his foes2 ,his eyes1 like glow-worms1 shine when he doth fret1 ,his snout digs sepulchres where'er he goes2 ,being moved he strikes whate'er is in his way1 ,and whom he strikes his cruel tushes slay4 ',his brawny sides1 with hairy bristles arm'd1 ,are better proof than thy spear's point can enter2 ,his short thick neck cannot be easily harm'd2 ,being ireful1 on the lion he will venture3 ,the thorny brambles and embracing bushes1 ,as fearful of him1 part2 through whom he rushes4' ,as for his domesticated brother1 to come back to our cochons1 let him be aspersed as he may--we have seen the manifold benefits he has procured for us and the plane he rightly occupies in the evolution of mankind4 ,without him the kitchen were well-nigh impracticable1 and1 deprived of his services1 gastronomy were an obsolete word4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,american ,,vs4 ,,english ,,cookery ,the finest landscape in the world is improved by a good inn in the foreground4 ,,samuel ,,johnson4 ,strictly speaking1 there exists as yet no general high-class ,english or ,american cuisine1 beyond the natural alimentary resources of these countries1 supplemented by the efforts of foreign cooks4 ,there are certain native dishes of merit in ,england1 to be sure1 and there is a so-termed ,southern and ,eastern kitchen in the ,united ,states where not a few dishes are admirably prepared4 ,but the art of baking bread and of pastry-making1 as well as that of frying1 is1 alas6 lacking to a great extent in both countries1 while the entre is still largely an uncertain quantity with the housewife4 ,there is a lack1 likewise1 both in ,england and in ,america1 of a proper understanding of sauces1 and this is the more to be regretted on the score of their appetising qualities1 the variety they impart to the flavour of viands1 and1 where the properties of the numerous seasonings and condiments are thoroughly understood1 the beneficent effect they lend to digestion4 ,illustration3 ,,first ,,catch ,,your ,,hare6 ,from the engraving by ,j4 ,w4 ,snow4 ,it were misleading1 however1 to decry the old-fashioned ,american home kitchen4 ,smile as ye may1 ye devotees of the ,gallic art1 the ,new ,world has its dishes that are not to be despised4 ,what fonts of delectation well not forth from the apple-1 the mince-1 and the pumpkin-pie6 ,and what caressing sapors linger not in the buckwheat cake and nectar of the maple grove1 the corn and the sweet-potato pone1 the corned beef and cabbage1 and even the corn-on-the-cob itself1 if of the ,country ,gentleman or ,stowell's ,evergreen variety6 ,the planked shad1 the clam chowder1 the terrapin la ,maryland1 the plebeian pork and beans1 and the more recent pt of oyster-crabs and lobster la ,newburgh surely need no one to sound their praises4 ,the ,fuligula vallisneria of the ,chesapeake occupies so exalted a plane that it is sufficient to lift one's hat at the mere thought of him2 and then reflect how admirably the ruffed grouse1 the prairie-chicken1 or a celery-fed redhead may supply his place when occasion requires4 ,and has not ,america contributed the potato1 the tomato1 and tobacco1 and taught the world how to cross a continent in a dining-car6 ,that the ,english are jealous of ,american products cannot be doubted when one remembers the remark of ,sydney ,smith1 who was asked by one of his friends why he did not visit ,america4 ,i fully intended going1 was his reply1 but my parishioners held a meeting and came to a resolution that they could not trust me with the canvasback ducks2 and ,i felt they were right1 so ,i gave up the project4 ,no better cookery1 independent of any special school1 is to be met with than that of the superior restaurants and hotels of the ,american metropolis and numerous clubs within and without its confines4 ,the cookery of the capital of the ,united ,states1 as it exists in many of the better restaurants and in private houses where ,southern dishes are especially well prepared1 is deservedly celebrated4 ,the ,new ,orleans kitchen has also its ardent admirers2 but outside of ,new ,york the restaurants of ,san ,francisco are perhaps the most famous and cosmopolitan4 ,receptive and creative1 ,america has learned from all1 and added to acquired knowledge the results of her own inventive genius4 ,the era of fried steak1 saleratus biscuits1 and apple floating-island has happily long since passed1 and already in many instances an ,american dinner has come to be recognised as among the very best it is possible to obtain4 ,a well-prepared ,chteaubriand is no longer confined to the ,caf ,riche1 or a bisque d'crevisses to ,voisin or to ,laprouse4 ,in none of the useful arts has progress been more marked in this country during the past decade4 ,even in remote ,new ,england villages a leg or a saddle of mutton is rarely sent to table with all its juices and excellences dissipated1 as one commonly finds it on the tables volantes of the prominent ,english restaurants4 ,and for the omnipresent greens of ,great ,britain in winter--the ,brussels sprout1 distended to thrice its size and deprived of all its pristine delicacy by crossing it with the cabbage--there are with us countless vegetables to choose from4 ,luxuriant diversity1 in fact1 is a marked characteristic of ,american cookery1 whatever faults may be found with its methods as frequently practised4 ,yet1 the too lavish multiplicity of dishes1 usually at the expense of quality1 which has characterised the breakfast and dinner of the average hostelry conducted on a fixed charge is disappearing1 and hotels on the ,european plan are becoming more in request yearly4 ,the cooking-school1 likewise1 is rapidly contributing its share towards the evolution of eating1 wherein wholesomeness and variety are properly regarded as a means of health1 enjoyment1 and longevity4 ,the luxuries of a few years ago have become necessities now2 and one notes on every hand the better physical development produced by improved alimentation and an increased understanding of the laws of hygiene4 ,no nation possesses so wide a field for administering to its most minute wants at all seasons and under all conditions4 ,the woods1 the waters1 and the plains vie with one another in their contributions to the table4 ,if we have not the truffle1 we have the mushroom4 ,if we are without the turbot and sole1 we have the whitefish1 the shad1 the flounder1 the bluefish1 the weakfish1 the striped-bass1 the frost-fish and pompano--the choice from ice-cold to tropical waters1 the range from the ,atlantic to the ,pacific--with oysters unequalled in delicacy and cheapness2 while we not only grow vegetables in profusion1 but in infinite variety and of superlative excellence4 ,when one thinks of the oysters1 with their rank1 tinny1 fishy flavour and their high admission fee1 that do duty in ,england and on the ,continent alike1 one may trebly appreciate the delicate ,blue ,point1 the ,narragansett1 ,glen ,cove1 ,millpond1 ,lynn ,haven1 ,cherrystone1 ,rockaway1 ,shrewsbury1 and the many other tributes of the deep sea wherein the very essence of the ocean seems concentrated4 ,of wholesome fruits the supply and kinds are boundless1 while animal food in nearly all its forms is nowhere found in greater perfection4 ,nor is furred and feathered game lacking to minister to the wants of the invalid and shed its graces on the board of the epicure4 ,the poor may have their ice as well as the rich2 and with her vast granaries ,america can provision the globe with the staff of life4 ,her territory is unlimited and its fertility unsurpassed4 ,he who wills may possess his plot of garden ground1 and1 like ,marvell1 reckon the lapse of time by the ripening of his fruits and the blossoming of his flowers4 ,in time1 perchance1 an ,american judge may rise to emphasise the sentiment of ,henrion de ,pensey1 the ,french magistrate1 who thus expressed himself to three of the most distinguished scientists of their day3 ,i consider the discovery of a dish which sustains our appetite and prolongs our pleasures as a far more interesting event than the discovery of a star1 for we have always stars enough2 and ,i shall not regard the sciences as sufficiently honoured or adequately represented amongst us until ,i see a cook in the first class of the ,institute4 ,such a benefactor was the ,vice-,president of the ,united ,states1 ,general ,john ,c4 ,breckinridge1 the story of his discovery having been thus related at a recent dinner at ,chamberlin's1 in ,washington1 by one of a coterie of men who were in their political and social prime in the early sixties4 ,the month was ,march1 and at nearly every table planked shad was being served4 ,i wonder1 said the raconteur1 as he held up his glass of ,forster-,jesuiten-,garten to the light and savoured its adorable bouquet1 if any of these people who are smacking their lips over that delicious dish know that they are indebted for it to ,general ,john ,c4 ,breckinridge4 ,it was from him that the people of this part of the country gained their knowledge of how to plank shad1 and from here it has spread out to every place where shad can be obtained4 ,it was ,breckinridge's custom1 beginning with the first warm ,sunday in ,april and continuing till the middle of ,june1 to drive slowly along the picturesque road that skirts the north bank of the ,chesapeake and ,ohio ,canal until he reached the ,guard ,locks1 fifteen miles up1 at the ,great ,falls of the ,potomac4 ,in the buff-bodied carryall would be stowed away a two-gallon demijohn of ,kentucky's best1 lemons1 sugar1 mint1 a large cheese1 and pounds of soda-crackers4 ,besides the negro driver he would at times have a friend along1 most frequently that only social intimate of ,president ,buchanan1 ',gentleman ,bob' ,magraw4 ,when ,breckinridge reached the falls he would walk into the little house which served the double duty of keeper's home and public inn1 shake hands with everybody1 have a word of pleasant banter with the landlady1 hand her a five-dollar gold piece by way of compensation for the diversion of business from her protected to his free-trade entertainment1 and then map out the day's enjoyment4 ,the farmers and farm-hands for miles around could be relied upon to be on hand to catch the fish4 ,the shad could not ascend the river beyond this point1 and the water was fairly alive with them4 ,fifty or more would be taken in a short time4 ,while this work was going on1 ,breckinridge1 who never fished1 would throw himself upon the grassy bank of the canal and listen to the playing of the violin by one or the other of two brothers named ,west1 who were possessed of wonderful skill with the bow1 the negro field-hands often joining in a dance4 ,at noon the shad would be properly planked1 under the personal supervision of ,breckinridge1 and put before a red-hot fire1 and in a few minutes the royal feast would begin1 right where they were cooked1 the landlady supplying plates1 knives1 and forks4 ,when the appetite was satisfied1 another season of lounging would follow1 when one of the two brothers would resume his playing on the violin4 ,as the sun got low in the heavens1 ,breckinridge would start back to town1 after telling them all to come around the next ,sunday4 ,the love of these country people for ,breckinridge knew no bounds2 they worshipped him1 and he was thoughtful of them4 ,well1 ,john ,c4 ,breckinridge was1 as you all know1 a candidate of the ,southern wing of the ,democratic party for the ,presidency in #ahfj4 ,we remember the result of that gigantic struggle4 ,the section where those pleasant ,sundays were spent in another year became a battle-ground1 and the placid fishers scattered far and wide4 ,a new generation has sprung up and another war been fought1 and the name of ,breckinridge is forgotten in that region2 but the art of planking shad as taught by him not only lives but spreads abroad each year4 ,thus1 at least1 runs the story4 ,but it has also been stated that the art of planking should be credited to the ,swedes1 who are said to have brought the fish-plank with them among their household effects1 when1 in #afcd1 they settled on the banks of the ,delaware1 a river famous for its wild duck and shad4 ,the planking of fish has equally been attributed to the ,american aborigines1 who subsisted to a great extent on the spoils of the woods and waters4 ,the shad itself1 at any rate1 is an indigenous product2 and there are those who maintain that it is not improved by planking1 but is best when simply broiled to a turn over the charcoal1 with parsley and butter sauce and a filet of lemon4 ,yet a hundredfold more important than the shad and his left-bower1 the cucumber1 is the vegetable that may be placed almost side by side with bread in the value it contributes to the sustenance of mankind--the potato1 which the world owes to the western hemisphere1 and whose introduction produced so great an economical revolution among the peoples of the earth4 ,and were the potato itself lacking1 the ,apios tuberosa1 or ground-nut1 with its violet-scented blossoms--a tuber in use by the aborigines--would stand ready as a substitute1 and yield innumerable varieties under cultivation4 ,although the early history of the potato is obscure and has been the subject of much discussion1 the great botanist ,de ,candolle states that its true home is ,chili1 where it grows wild2 that before the discovery of ,america its cultivation was diffused from ,chili to ,new ,grenada2 that it was introduced about the latter part of the sixteenth century into ,virginia and ,north ,carolina1 and1 finally1 was imported into ,europe between #aehj and #aehe1 first by the ,spaniards and afterwards by the ,english at the time of ,sir ,walter ,raleigh's voyages to ,virginia4 ,the first potato was planted on ,sir ,walter's estate in ,cork1 and employed for food in ,ireland many years before it became familiar to ,england1 the esculent still remaining the truffle of the ,emerald ,isle4 ,gerarde1 long before the ,lyonnaise or pomme souffle was dreamed of1 defines two varieties--the ,sisarum ,peruvianum1 or skirret1 of ,peru1 and the ,battata ,virginiana1 or ,virginian potato4 ,in his ,great ,herbal the qualities of the battata are thus set forth3 ,the temperature and virtues be referred to the common ,potatoes1 being likewise a food1 as also a meate for pleasure1 equall in goodnesse and wholesomenesse unto the same1 being either toasted in the embers1 or boyled and eaten with oyle1 vinegar and pepper1 or dressed in any other way by the hand of some cunning in cookerie4 ,the origin of the sweet potato is more doubtful1 a number of authorities holding to its ,american and others to its ,asiatic origin1 though ,brazil is usually credited as being the land of its genesis4 ,during the old colony days of the eighteenth century catfish and waffle suppers were in great repute in the taverns on the picturesque ,schuylkill near ,philadelphia1 these being still popular1 though planked shad is more commonly called for4 ,the turtle was a great favourite with our epicurean forefathers1 who were accustomed frequently to hold turtle feasts or1 as they were then termed1 turtle frolics4 ,returning sea captains from the ,west ,indies were expected to bring home a turtle for this purpose1 together with a keg of limes1 lime-juice being considered the best of all tart accompaniments for the punch-bowl4 ,of these feasts1 with their accessories1 a travelling clergyman named ,burnaby gave this account in #agei3 ,there are several taverns pleasantly situated upon ,east ,river1 near ,new ,york1 where it is common to have these turtle feasts4 ,these happen once or twice a week4 ,thirty or forty gentlemen and ladies meet and dine together1 drink tea in the afternoon1 fish1 and amuse themselves till evening1 and then return home in ,italian chaises1 a gentleman and lady in each chaise4 ,on the way there is a bridge1 about three miles distant from ,new ,york1 which you always pass over as you return1 called the ,kissing ,bridge1 where it is part of the etiquette to salute the lady who has put herself under your protection4 ,no wonder that1 with such delightful privileges1 the days of our roistering greater-grandfathers were referred to as the good old colony times4 ,it has been properly held that austerity of diet1 though not always productive of austere morals1 invariably leads to an acerbity of temperament inimical to social and artistic development1 that poor food is a begetter of dyspepsia1 and that in dyspepsia lurks crime4 ,a well-nourished nation becomes a progressive nation1 and poor nourishment results in intemperance and maleficence4 ,the mobile human face1 first to show the effects of the emotions and the passions by its lines1 is no less indicative of meagre or improper alimentation4 ,both in mind and body1 where nourishment ceases vitality fails1 and hence a perfect cuisine must prove the best of doctors if supplemented by the adage1 ,know thyself1 obtain a sufficiency of sleep1 and exercise abundantly in the outer air4 ,as to the ideal cuisine1 this may be briefly defined as that which supplies an abundant variety of the best procurable material prepared in the most wholesome manner1 in distinction to innumerable mixed and highly spiced viands1 which assuredly have their place1 but which require to be employed with precaution4 ,the merit of the best ,american cookery consists in its comparative simplicity4 ,writing in #aheb1 ,count d',orsay complained that even then the culinary art had greatly deteriorated in ,paris1 and had been transferred to ,england4 ,at the time referred to1 the ,frres ,proveneaux1 ,philippe1 and the ,caf de ,paris were the most famous restaurants at the ,french capital1 ,vry1 ,vfour1 and the ,caf ,anglais having declined in favour4 ,his remarks concerning ,england applied of course to the nobility1 who could outbid the titled classes of ,france1 as to-day ,america in its turn is enabled to command the greatest culinary skill4 ,a similar complaint was made by ,nestor ,roqueplan in #ahff in ,le ,double ,almanach ,gourmand3 ,the ,french cuisine has lost much of its originality and special characteristics4 ,we no longer find places devoted to the ,flemish kitchen1 others to the ,normandy1 ,lyonnaise1 ,toulousian1 ,bordelaise1 and ,provenale kitchens4 ,but ,france nevertheless is still the country where eating is found at its best4 ,that ,french cookery1 or1 to speak more correctly1 ,parisian cookery1 has deteriorated of recent years there would seem to be abundant evidence4 ,or is it that such retrogression is owing to the advances in other countries1 and that the ,parisian cuisine suffers more from such comparison than from any real falling off in merit8 ,certain it is that the alien who is capable of judging will charge it with having become too rich and highly spiced1 if not too careless4 ,there are those who go so far as to say that its future will lie chiefly in the speech of the menu1 that none of the strange spellings of rosbif will change the nature of the viand1 the same remark applying to the cut which is called a biftek everywhere save in the land of its origin and in the ,united ,states4 ,the fact is that the ,french1 in many arts1 unjustly claim a taste so superlative as to be unattainable by other nations1 and that ,french cookery has been tacitly accepted as unparalleled on the same principle that a titled personage is supposed to possess superior accomplishments4 ,yet ,french must necessarily remain for all time the classic language of the bill of fare4 ,still1 the preparation of food continues to be better understood by the average practitioner in ,france than in any other country4 ,for1 as in angling it is not so much the fly as the hand directing it that secures the trout1 so in cookery it is less the recipe than the fine perceptivity of the artist that achieves the perfect dish4 ,so far as ,america is concerned1 it is less the want of capable chefs than the scarcity of good female cooks that is to be deplored4 ,a competent cuisinire is becoming more and more uncommon1 and by the average servant cooking is too often considered a mere function to be performed with as little trouble and as much despatch as possible4 ,besides the lack of proper training1 crass ignorance is too frequently a factor which the housewife has to contend with in those who profess to have a perfect understanding of the art of the kitchen4 ,a new cook had come1 and there were to be smelts with a tartare sauce to follow the soup4 ,can you make a good tartare sauce8 asked the mistress2 if not1 ,i can show you4 ,oh1 yes2 ,i've often made one4 ,in due time the fish1 shorn of heads and tails and flanked by a very yellow sauce with a strange taste1 made their appearance1 and were promptly returned to the kitchen4 ,surely1 you don't call this a tartare sauce1 which is always cold4 ,besides1 where are the chopped pickle1 the onion1 the capers1 the parsley8 ,and what gives it such a queer taste8 ,but this is a hot tartar sauce1 mum2 ,i asked for the 'tartar1' and the maid gave it to me2 ,i supposed you wanted a cream-of-tartar sauce4 ,the corrective for such a state of things is difficult to prescribe1 unless it be a better understanding on the part of the housewife and the establishment of cooking-classes in all female schools4 ,another remedy might be to imitate the ,french of two hundred years ago1 and provide an entertaining illustrated text-book for children1 artfully designed to foster a love of gastronomy4 ,thus1 in a work of this nature entitled ,roast ,pig1 the text is freely interlarded with appetising pictures of viands and table scenes1 accompanied by such maxims as these3 ,a well-minced ham is fine eating1 but not without something to drink2 pt of venison and craquelins are not intended for naughty children2 damask prunes are delicious to eat for those who deserve them2 venison is better in a pt than with any sauces1 if it is well seasoned and accompanied with wine4#cb ,illustration3 ,r,,ti-,,cochon ,facsimile page from volume1 #afif ,the excellence of the morale of a work of this nature cannot fail to impress itself on those of mature years whose incentive to learning in youth was more often the ruler and the rod than sugar-plums and wine4 ,but while the advantages of such a method for moulding the youthful taste are to be extolled1 it presents the objection that much valuable time must elapse before the results would become tangible1 and hence its benefits would accrue too late save for the younger generation and its successors4 ,it were well1 withal1 in furtherance of the advance of the art1 if a society were formed for the suppression of the filet1 the consomm with whipped cream1 and also the sweetbread in its usual form1 which are so frequently employed in company dinners1 the bill of fare of which is left by the housewife to the cook or the purveyor who is engaged for the day4 ,in such cases the guest often needs no menu to know what is forthcoming--the lukewarm ,blue ,points1 the flavourless broth1 the overdone halibut1 the tasteless tenderloin and green peas1 and the half-mixed salad deluged with tarragon vinegar4 ,as for the wines1 one may be reasonably sure of a woody-tasting sherry1 a sour and watery claret1 and a still more asperous brut champagne that is doled out1 when appetite has waned1 to chill the dessert and render the sweets the more indigestible4 ,not that this menu is the general rule by any means in the ,united ,states1 but it is of far too frequent occurrence1 and should be placed under ban--a charge that concerns the host and hostess alike4 ,for whatever difficulty the mistress may experience in procuring trained culinary skill1 a simple bill of fare1 daintily served1 is always at her command2 while there can be no excuse on the part of the master for presenting a sharp brut champagne at the end of the repast1 if indeed it be presented at all2 and as for a reputable ,bordeaux1 if such be not in his cellar1 it is or should be obtainable at his club4 ,where champagne is permitted to diffuse its sunshine1 it goes without saying it should be of irreproachable quality and dealt out with a liberal hand4 ,to stint in ,ay or ,sillery is as unpardonable as to ice one's ,burgundy4 ,the host should watch the various brands attentively from year to year1 noting their improvement or deterioration1 judging them by their quality only1 and choosing them irrespective of their vogue or the plaudits of those who may not be capable of judging4 ,the introducer of the dry flint cracker in place of fresh bread to go with the cheese1 though never definitely ascertained1 is said to have been a dentist who in this wise succeeded in obtaining many wealthy patients4 ,a person who is guilty of offering hardtack to his friends may be expected to pour a mayonnaise dressing over his cucumbers and beat up his lettuce and tomatoes in a salad4 ,to serve cheese with the salad is a syncretism1 besides being a great injustice to the roast to which the salad rightly appertains4 ,the absence of butter which is often noticeable at formal repasts has no raison d'tre4 ,it is wanted at most dinners1 particularly for corn1 baked potatoes1 etc41 and is always needed for bread2 its non-employment in ,europe is only a consequent of economical custom4 ,a vice it were seemingly useless to protest against1 so universal is the practice1 is the serving of raw fruit after a hearty dinner4 ,as long as courses are presented in a tempting way1 so long will the unthinking majority continue to taste them1 even if it be fruit1--gold in the morning1 silver at noon1 and lead at night1--- after the final sweets4 ,the only one who has exclaimed against this custom1 to the writer's knowledge1 is the ,ettrick ,shepherd in the ,noctes3 ,as for frute after fude1 it's a downricht abomination1 and coagulates on the stomach like sour cruds4 ,nor may the wineless dinner be passed unnoticed1 at which unfortunate guests sometimes find themselves unwittingly present with no means of escape4 ,to those who are unaccustomed to their glass of claret or other vinous beverage at home its exclusion may not materially signify1 though at a protracted repast there are not a few among such who find it a great aid to digestion4 ,in the case of those who are habituated to it its absence becomes of serious moment1 much the same as if a meal were deprived of salt or the post-prandial cigar were proscribed4 ,in vain may the unfortunate guest attempt to philosophise on the virtues of abnegation as he contemplates his glass where the gold gleams without1 instead of sparkling from within1 and he mournfully recalls the couplet of ,monselet and the dinners that are past3 ,sauternes1 ,haut-,brions1 ,latour1 ,margaux1 ,lafittes1 ,grands crs de la ,gironde1 ah6 quel bien vous me ftes6 7,sauternes1 ,latour1 ,margaux1 ,lafitte1 and ,o',bryan1 ,grand growths of ,gironde1 let us make haste to try 'em67 ,the least that the dinner-giver could do who may be intent on restricting the product of the vine1 out of respect for those whose happiness it befits him to consider1--aye1 for which he is directly responsible during the entire period they remain under his roof1--would be to apprise his guests on their invitation cards that his filet was to be accompanied by water4 ,then any possible uncertainty would at once become a certainty1 and no one need be ensnared4 ,otherwise his dinner must border too closely on the very questionable form of entertainment tendered by the fox to the stork4 ,let no man1 says an old writer in ,blackwood's1 who has been so unfortunate as to be accustomed to drink water be afraid all at once to begin to drink wine4 ,let him without fear or trembling boldly fill a bumper to his most gracious majesty the king--then the ,duke of ,clarence and the navy--then ,wellington and the army4 ,these three bumpers will have made him a new man4 ,the fact that the host may not be a wine-drinker himself is no reason why he should select a dinner-party as the field for enforcing his views on hydropathy4 ,and if from sentiment or through physical reasons he prefer water1 no one assuredly will question his right to abstain from vinous beverages4 ,there was an old gentleman1 it is related1 who was fond of entertaining his friends1 and who gave them wine of the very best4 ,he himself would drink with them1 but only from a particular decanter which was placed before him4 ,an inquisitive neighbour at his table contrived to help himself from the same bottle1 and discovered that1 under a colourable imitation of sherry1 his host was drinking cold tea4 ,he was a total abstainer from principle1 but he was too courteous a gentleman to flaunt his conviction in the face of his guests or to reflect upon the weakness of his friends by confessing himself superior to them4 ,above all things1 an invitation to dine should convey on its face the spirit of a refined1 broad-minded hospitality and an assurance of perfect creature comforts1 embodying in the fullest measure the sentiment expressed by ,chtillon-,plessis1 ,se soigner en buvant d'excellents vins et en mangeant d'excellents mets1 voil la bonne1 la vraie mdication6 7,to care for one's self by drinking excellent wines and by eating excellent dishes1--this is the proper1 the true medication47 ,in all instances where the entertainer may be opposed to serving wine1 it were better to dispense with the dinner and substitute a tea or a reading in its stead4 ,a wineless dinner is justifiable only where every guest is a professed teetotaler and has become inured to ,oolong and sparkling waters4 ,an editorial in the ,london ,spectator deals summarily with such alleged entertainers1 terming them would-be hosts4 ,what6 exclaims the writer shall a man be invited to a feast8 shall he don his white tie with care and take his way through the inclement weather to his friend's home1 determined1 though weary and jaded with his daily toil1 to shine at his best1 and repay with the blithest company his friend's entertainment8 and shall he be offered lemonade to drink8 ,it is enough to curdle the milk of human kindness in his breast forever4 ,or iced water8 ,why1 it would throw a chill upon the warmest good will1 and freeze the speech even upon the lips of a lover4 ,the man is neither a wine-bibber nor a sot4 ,but he is accustomed to drink his glass of wine1 even as he is accustomed to eat his dinner1 and one is as necessary to him as the other4 ,well1 we do not imagine that he dines with him twice4 ,the ,sunday two- or three-o'clock dinner is a barbarism which calls loudly for suppression--a custom that has no justifiable motive1 inasmuch as the only pretence for its existence is of questionable benefit to the servants1 who are obliged to share equally the penalty visited upon every one by whom it is tolerated4 ,as well establish a weekly custom of a ,saturday banquet at midnight in order to allow the cook a full afternoon for visiting4 ,for what are the inevitable results8 ,accustomed to the dinner in the evening and the luncheon at noon1 for which the machinery of digestion is set in perfect accord1 the stomach is called upon to fast on the day devoted to rest until long after the period for the performance of its regular offices--to be surfeited with excessive ingestion at a time when appetite is ravenous and the secretory organs are unable to perform their customary functions4 ,gluttony and subsequent lethargy are a necessary consequent1 followed by a disturbed state of the digestion perhaps for days afterwards4 ,the pathological deduction of irregular eating is a simple one4 ,the stomach1 having supplied its secretions at the accustomed time1 waits but a brief period before it allows such secretions to be absorbed when deprived of the aliments that aid in the production of fresh supplies4 ,after a few such experiences the secretions diminish in amount and in activity1 even when food is introduced in the digestive tract1 and stomachic disturbance is an inevitable sequence4 ,it will thus be manifest that the ,sunday-afternoon dinner and late ,sunday supper become the greatest of all invitations to gastric disorders1 and that the master and mistress of the well-regulated household should firmly resent this almost universal imposition4 ,no one knows better than the physician the serious ailments caused by ,sunday engorgement and irregular eating4 ,and yet no one in this respect remains more passive to his own welfare or that of his patients4 ,the seven-o'clock theatre dinner1 while less obnoxious than the ,sunday evil1 is nevertheless a positive discomfort and a direct incentive to flatulence and dyspepsia4 ,it should likewise receive the stigma of public disapproval1 and either be entirely abolished1 out of comfort both to hosts and guests1 or set at a sufficiently early hour to ensure their well-being and that of the audience it invariably disturbs4 ,in any event1 a formal repast of this nature can scarcely be partaken of with a sense of comfort1 and it were better for all concerned if a supper after the performance were substituted4 ,to be regretted also is the growing tendency of adjourning the evening dinner-hour4 ,six o'clock1 the hygienist will maintain1 is the latest period in the day at which those who set a proper value on their health should begin to dine4 ,it will be claimed1 notwithstanding1 by many who may be directly concerned1 that this is too early for invited guests to assemble at table--that the toiler in the business mart may not always call his time his own4 ,let the hours of the business man and the professionalist be shortened1 so that life may contain a broader margin4 ,there still remain but twenty-four hours in the day1 and the existing hours of business are too long and do not enable the majority to regulate the conditions of life properly4 ,let us not be ever hastening on1 as though the goal were to be attained only by whip and spur6--the wisdom of a learned man cometh by opportunity of leisure1 and he that hath little business shall become wise4 ,the ideal hour for dining would be half-past six1 with fifteen minutes' grace at the utmost1 when one need neither sit down in a half-famished condition nor be sent to bed with an overcharged stomach4 ,seven o'clock certainly is as late as one may dine with comfort4 ,a deferred dinner means either a too substantial luncheon or a distressing feeling of goneness1 which frequently makes itself unpleasantly audible long before the announcement that dinner is served2 while lateness in dining implies additionally an insufficient interim between the dessert and the night's repose4 ,no period of the day begins to be as tedious as that which is often mistakenly extended for the benefit and encouragement of the unpunctual4 ,would that the laggard who thus mars the comfort of others might feel the true force of ,boileau's stricture3 ,i have always been punctual at the hour of dinner1 for ,i knew that all those whom ,i kept waiting at that provoking interval would employ those unpleasant moments to sum up all my faults4 ,to wait for tardy guests1 it cannot be emphasised too strongly1 is to try unwarrantably the temper of the remainder of the company and jeopardise the excellence of the repast4 ,all such stumbling-blocks to the perfect advance of gastronomy1 however1 will doubtless be removed in time1 and the pleasures of the table eventually be realised to their fullest extent in ,america4 ,again1 turning from the state of cookery in this country to that in ,england1 it must be admitted that advancement has been far less manifest4 ,in general1 a ,french writer remarks1 the ,english are little inclined to epicurism2 it is apparent that their palate is not apt to appreciate the finish1 the delicacy of a dish artistically prepared4 ,it cannot be said that this stricture is entirely just1 despite existent conditions4 ,neither may it be charged that the general state of ,english cookery is entirely the result of supineness on the part of a considerable portion of those whose interests are most affected2 for the travelled ,briton is the first to complain of the sameness and lack of progress which characterise his native kitchen4 ,with abundant material and the best of meats and fish1 there is little variety and a conspicuous want of daintiness in the ,english bill of fare2 while even in the capital the ,english restaurants1 with few exceptions1 are scarcely to be commended4 ,one must perforce suppose that these conditions are more the outcome of the national conservatism--the tendency to let well enough alone--than that they are not realised by a certain portion of the community4 ,the ,englishman is the last one1 however1 to stint at his table1 whereon the ample roast invariably figures1 and whatever may chance to be served appears in generous profusion4 ,nor can one imagine a more delightsome host than the cultured ,briton1 who was first to proclaim the virtues of old-vintage champagnes1 and who is still willing to undergo the martyrdom of gout for the sake of an after-glass of port which may not be equalled elsewhere4 ,and if the ,english table be designated as heavy compared with that of the ,united ,states1 it must be considered that climate has much to do with the form of a nation's alimentation4 ,the national roast beef and ale are a fuel for the body in a land where fogs and mists prevail1 and where the heating of dwellings and buildings is often inadequate4 ,the chop-house is essentially ,english1 and so far as its bill of fare extends its merits are unquestionable4 ,the ,englishman will also say1 and his claim cannot be disputed1 ,is there a better substantial soup than turtle1 or even ox-tail and mulligatawny8 is any friture equal in delicacy to that of whitebait8 and is not the ,english beefsteak incomparably superior to the larded filet of the ,french8 ,but turtle and turbot and beef and ale need not necessarily preclude the lighter forms of nutrition which the ,british lack1 or that minute attention to detail without which the cuisine must languish4 ,it is true that the kitchens of the very wealthy are presided over by skilled foreign chefs1 as is the case in most other countries1 and that my lord and my lady do not lack for the most exquisite refinements that the disciples of ,carme can contribute4 ,a rich ancestral ,english country-seat1 shaded by its immemorial elms and limes1 with its splendid conservatories and gardens1 its game-preserves and trout and salmon waters1 is perhaps the best expression of refined and luxurious hospitality to be found2 and here1 assuredly1 the table does not yield in bounty and munificence to any in the world4 ,outside of comparatively few dishes1 however1 there is but little to commend in general ,english cookery2 and it would seem that what else is specially characteristic and also good consists largely in the cold pieces1 such as game-1 pigeon-1 and rabbit-pie1 spiced beef1 the lordly venison pasty1 and similar comestibles4 ,that there is no such thing as fine modern ,english cookery the ,englishman will be first to acknowledge4 ,broadly speaking1 all which is good is old1 and all which is modern is ,french4#cc ,the cooking of vegetables is notoriously poor1 and variety in preparation is as limited on the ordinary table as the variety of the vegetables themselves during a major portion of the year4 ,the seedsman and the market-gardener cannot be held accountable1 for the seedsman produces excellent varieties in profusion1 many of which are grown in this country1 and market-gardeners abound who must raise them4 ,and no gardener may excel1 if equal1 the ,englishman1 whether his operations extend to the kitchen-or the flower-garden4 ,but where are his vegetables to be met with in perfection of variety and perfection of cooking8--a question that becomes almost as great a problem as was the universal absence of male birds among the chaffinches or the mysterious disappearance of the ring-ouzels to ,gilbert ,white4 ,during the limited season1 let us admit1 there are some vegetables which may not be surpassed1 like green peas and beans1 cauliflower1 asparagus1 and many varieties of lettuce1 especially ,cos1 which cannot be grown to equal advantage under our hot summer sun4 ,it is unfortunate that potatoes are cooked only in about one way1 for few potatoes can compare in flavour with those raised in ,england4 ,all such vegetables as demand continuous midsummer heat for their perfect maturity1 together with late-ripening varieties of fruits1 are necessarily raised at a disadvantage in most portions of ,great ,britain4 ,yet it would seem that the frowns of ,vertumnus were far less responsible for this dearth of variety than the apparent apathy of the nation itself or those who are principally responsible for its alimentation--the cook1 the epicure1 the restaurant1 and the housewife4 ,thus1 in so simple a matter as the pumpkin-pie1 which one occasionally meets in the southern and southwestern shires1 it is hardly surprising that it is held in slight estimation when one reflects that the material is cut up in pieces1 and then1 with half apple and half pumpkin1 a pie is made similar to the ordinary ,english apple-pie1 and this in a climate where a pumpkin of good quality may not be grown out of doors4 ,contrary to general opinion1 pumpkin-pie is not an ,american but an old ,english dish improved upon by the ,new ,england housewife4 ,three hundred years ago1 when known as the pompion1 they were made into pies by cutting a hole in the side1 extracting the seeds and filaments1 stuffing the cavity with apples1 and baking the whole4 ,the nectarine1 peach1 and apricot1 as raised under glass in ,england or grown as espaliers in favoured localities1 are always superior1 while the glass-grown pine nowhere else reaches such perfection4 ,superlative1 too1 is the glass-grown muskmelon--netted1 ribbed1 and laced2 spherical1 oval1 and globe-shaped2 green-fleshed and scarlet-fleshed2 and melting1 juicy1 and delicious4 ,but some will ask1 what can be more delectable than the scented orange-scarlet flesh of our own ,surprise1 or the ,hymettus sweetness that is hived beneath the wattled ribs of the little ,green ,nutmeg8 ,the watermelon1 with its great1 luscious1 rosy core1 like corn and the sweet potato and its varieties1 is not to be grown in ,england4 ,of hardy fruits ,america is the chosen home1 unless it be of the grape for wine-making1 wherein ,france reigns supreme4 ,and of all districts where soil and climate unite to second the skill of the horticulturist1 there is perhaps none in which nearly all the finer species and varieties of fruit attain such superiority1 combined with keeping qualities1 as in the smiling garden of the ,empire ,state--the ,genesee ,valley of ,new ,york4 ,excellent fruits are raised in ,france and southern ,germany1 but only to a limited extent compared with our own country4 ,to the ,french we are indebted for many of the finest varieties of pears1 though these are rarely seen in ,france itself4 ,fruit in ,europe is always dear and often difficult to obtain4 ,yet in the noted ,parisian restaurants it is a rare occurrence when one cannot obtain a couple of peaches for twenty-five francs1 or revel in a melon for thirty1 much the same as pineapples may be obtained in ,london at a guinea apiece4 ,it will readily be conceded that the fish and meats of the ,french and ,germans are usually much inferior to those of the ,english--the veal of ,germany and the ,pr-,sal mutton of ,france excepted4 ,but1 unlike the continentals1 the ,english fail to make the most of their opportunities and better materials4 ,a contemporaneous ,english writer thus alludes to the state of cookery and this lack of progress in his own country3 ,the adage ',god sends meat and the devil sends cooks' must surely be of native parentage1 for of no country is it so true as of our own4 ,perhaps had it not been for the influx among us of ,french and ,italian experts we should not have progressed much beyond the pancake and oatmeal period4 ,but foreign chefs limit their efforts to those who can afford to pay them for their services4 ,the middle classes do not fall within the pale of their beneficence4 ,the poor know them not4 ,so it happens that even as ,i write the greater part of the community not only cannot afford professional assistance in the preparation of their meals1 which goes without saying1 but from ignorance expend on their larder twice as much as a ,parisian or an ,italian in the same rank of life1 with a very indifferent result4 ,there are handbooks of instructions1 it is true1 both for the middle and for the lower classes4 ,these books are at everybody's command4 ,but they are either left unread1 or1 if read1 they are not understood4#cd ,let it not be supposed by the stranger to the table of ,london that one may not dine there to advantage1 or that the criticisms as to strictly ,english dinners apply to all hostelries and to many first-class restaurants of the capital where the ,french haute cuisine prevails4 ,london has likewise numerous ,italian restaurants whose table d'hte is not to be despised--if one knows where to find them4 ,but even in those restaurants whose specialty is ,french cookery the menu is singularly incommensurate in variety to the varied native products1 both in vegetable and animal foods4 ,even the delicious sole and turbot1 however well prepared1 become a weariness through constant iteration1 while petite marmite and crote-au-pot are so frequent as to cause one to yearn for ,julienne with inexpressible longing4 ,no doubt1 with a trained and old-time diner who knows his ,london thoroughly1 one might happen on not a few gastronomic oases whose good ,english cheer would cause even the fog of the metropolis to melt into golden sunshine4 ,many old dishes still exist in the ,english provinces on which much store is set in their respective localities1 as1 for instance1 a certain pudding1 rarely found outside of ,derbyshire1 called ,bakewell pudding1 after the little town on the ,wye1 which is also celebrated for its trout4 ,although the ancient recipe for this1 handed down from one generation to another1 is said to be possessed only by the landlady of the ,chesterfield ,arms in ,bakewell1 it is asserted that a successful imitation may be made as follows3 ,line a pie-tin with puff-paste and fill the centre with these ingredients--first layer1 lemon cheese2 second1 raspberry jam2 third1 lemon cheese4 ,then strew on the top blanched sweet almonds and strips of candied peel of lemons1 oranges1 and citrons4 ,bake for about twenty minutes in a brisk oven1 and dust very lightly with fine sugar4 ,of the innumerable forms of preparing the cutlet1 the following recipe can at least lay claim to originality1 and is thoroughly ,english3 ,the cutlets should be cut from the neck of mutton1 then egged and breadcrumbed1 finely minced tongue or ham having been mixed with the crumbs4 ,fry a delicate brown4 ,for the centre of the dish use the whites of three eggs steamed in a cup4 ,place in a saucepan gherkins1 mushrooms1 ham1 and tongue cut into small bars1 adding to this a sauce of good brown gravy1 with a dessertspoonful each of red-currant jelly1 ,harvey's sauce1 mushroom ketchup1 and tomato sauce4 ,for the quality of this recipe the writer cannot vouch further than to observe that1 like its predecessor1 it emanates from the daintiest of feminine fingers of ,wargrave1 where the excellence of the contributor's kitchen is equalled only by the beauty of her flower-garden4 ,the universal employment of bottled sauces1 such as ,worcester1 ,halford1 ,harvey's1 etc41 and pungent condiments1 like gherkins1 mustard1 chow-chow1 and ketchup1 would seem to be more or less necessary in ,england1 owing to the monotony of her roast beef and mutton and the extensive use of cold meats1 poultry1 and game4 ,harvey's sauce1 mentioned among the ingredients of the above-mentioned recipe1 owes its origin to this circumstance3 ,during the middle and later years of ,mr4 ,meynell's mastership of the hounds in the celebrated ,quorn country there often appeared in the field ,captain ,charles ,combers1 who was born at ,brentwood in #ageb1 and who was more familiarly known as ,the ,flying ,cucumber from the manner in which he put his horses along4 ,on one occasion1 when on his way to ,leicestershire1 he stopped1 as was his wont1 at ,bedford to dine at the ,george1 then kept by a man named ,harvey1 where he ordered a steak2 and when it was served ,combers requested ,harvey to let his servant bring from his buggy a quart bottle which contained an admirable sauce4 ,having poured some of it into his plate and mixed it with the gravy of the steak1 he asked ,harvey to taste it1 and the host pronounced it to be a most excellent relish4 ,well1 ,mr4 ,harvey1 said ,combers1 ,i shall leave the bottle with you to use till my return1 only be careful to reserve enough for me4 ,on the next day ,harvey had to provide a wedding dinner and introduced the sauce1 which afforded such general satisfaction that several smaller parties were made up1 and the contents of the bottle were soon exhausted4 ,in due time ,captain ,combers returned1 and1 having been told that no more sauce remained1 said3 ,never mind2 ,i can make some more from my mother's recipe2 and1 by-the-bye1 ,i will give you a copy of it4 ,he was as good as his word4 ,harvey made it in large quantities1 sent it to the different shops in ,london1 advertised it as ,harvey's ,sauce1 and by its extensive sale realised a large income4 ,he subsequently sold the recipe for an annuity of #djj or #ejj1 which he received for the remainder of his life4 ,among old ,english dishes1 ,bubble and ,squeak is the fanciful name applied to fried beef or mutton and cabbage1-- ,when 'midst the frying-pan1 in accents savage1 ,the beef so surly quarrels with the cabbage1-- for the preparation of which widely varied recipes are given in the vade-mecums of ,english cookery4 ,kitchener even set the lines to music1 and furnished a sauce for the dish4 ,such a dish illustrates the excellent digestion of the ,english4 ,to the ,french it would be impossible1 and a ,german would think twice before attempting it4 ,but this were harmless compared with an ,english green sauce for green geese or ducklings1 the prescription for which reads3 ,mix a quarter of a pint of sorrel-juice1 a glass of white wine1 and some scalded gooseberries4 ,add sugar and a bit of butter1 and boil them up4 ,to cavil is easy1 however1 and in matters relating to cookery it were well to bear in mind the philosophic lines of ,king1 a contemporary of the late lamented ,mrs4 ,glasse3 ,good nature will some failings overlook1 ,forgive mischance1 not errors of the ,cook2 ,as1 if no salt is thrown about the dish1 ,or nice crisp'd parsley scatter'd on the fish2 ,shall we in passion from our dinner fly1 ,and hopes of pardon to the ,cook deny1 ,for things which ,mrs4 ,glasse herself might oversee1 ,and all mankind commit as well as she8 ,and if ,english cookery and ,english restaurants leave much to be desired1 one should not forget that the art is still far from having attained perfection in the ,united ,states1 where the stranger in like manner might find ample cause for complaint1 particularly in the poor and slipshod cookery of the hostelries of its country towns4 ,certainly all who have visited in ,england will recall the generous hospitality of its people1 the almost homelike comfort and cleanliness of its inns1 and a service that may not be equalled by that of any other nation4 ,when to these are added the glories of the ,english countryside--the idyllic setting amid which many a repast has been savoured--one may well overlook any trifling lapses of the cook1 in view of enchantments that must ever be retained in tender recollection4 ,illustration ,,at ,,table ,,with ,,the ,,clergy ,bishop and ,abbot and ,prior were there2 ,many a ,monk and many a ,friar4 ,,ingoldsby ,,legends3 ,the ,jackdaw of ,rheims4 ,whether cookery is indebted to the ,roman ,catholic ,church to the full extent that is commonly supposed is questionable4 ,it is certain1 however1 that the olden monks and friars performed considerable service in preserving ancient recipes and inventing new formulas1 many of which have been improved upon as the science has advanced4 ,previous to the ,renaissance the higher cultivation of cookery was confined largely to the monasteries1 which prided themselves upon their excellent cheer and the hospitality they extended to distinguished visitors4 ,indeed1 numbers of food preparations may be traced to the monastic orders1 especially forms of cooking fish1 eggs1 and various soups4 ,the introduction of soup1 which is mentioned for the first time in history at the beginning of the fifteenth century1 is closely connected with the clergy4 ,then it was that1 during the ftes attendant on the marriage of ,catherine de ,valois to ,henry ,v of ,england1 the ,archbishop of ,sens1 at the head of a procession of his priests1 bore the soup and the wine to the royal chamber1 accompanied by the blessing of the ,papal ,see4 ,illustration3 ,,non ,,in ,,solo ,,pane ,,vivit ,,homo ,from the original oil-painting by ,klein ,around the art of larding is likewise shed the halo of sanctity1 its discovery having occurred during the ,council of ,ble in #addj1 when ,amadeus of ,savoy1 elected pope under the name of ,flix ,v1 was tendered a larded capon by his cook4 ,julienne1 or a soup somewhat similar1 it is more than probable1 is an old monastic dish having special reference to days when meat was proscribed1 the same observation applying to numerous fish and vegetable soups and ragots4 ,there is much reason to suppose that not a few treatises on cookery and on wines have appeared whose authors were dignitaries of the church1 or at least connected with clericalism1 but whose rle forbade them attaching their names to works of this nature4 ,thus1 during the year #afga there was published at ,molsheim1 in southern ,germany1 an excellent cook-book which treated of the various branches of the science1 by ,bernardin ,buchinger1 ,abbot of ,ltzel1 having for its title ,koch-,buch so fr ,geistliche als auch ,weltliche ,grosse und ,geringe ,haushaltungen1 etc41--,cook-,book for large and small ,religious as well as ,laical ,establishments1--a culinary grammar of much merit which has since passed into several editions4 ,in this work the hierophant's name was omitted1 the authorship being announced as ,durch ,einen ,geistlichen ,kchen-,meister desz ,gotteshauses ,ltzel beschrieben und practicirt1--described and practised by a religious ,master-,cook of the ,monastery of ,ltzel4 ,an important volume of three hundred pages by ,vittorio ,lancellotti1 published in ,rome1 appeared in #afbg1 in which is presented month by month a description of a large number of feasts given by various prelates in honour of eminent personages at the commencement of the seventeenth century4 ,the volume was dedicated to ,cardinal ,ippolito ,aldobrandino1 and is addressed chiefly to the clergy1 whose good taste in the matter of good cheer and luxury in entertaining are minutely set forth4#ce ,to the ancient ecclesiasts the vineyards producing the finest wines of the world owe their existence and their fame--the ,johannisberg1 ,steinberg1 ,hochheim1 ,dom ,dechanei1 ,rauenthal-,pfaffenberg1 and numerous other growths of the ,rheingau2 the ,forster ,kirchenstck and ,jesuitengarten of the ,rheinpfalz2 the ,stein and ,leisten wines of ,franconia1 the ,liebfrauenmilch ,enclos ,klostergarten of ,rhenish ,hessia1 and the ,kloster ,neuberg of ,austria4 ,no less celebrated in other lands are the rich endowments of the monastery--the ,romane1 ,chambertin1 and ,clos-,vougeot of the ,cte d',or2 the ,hermitage and ,chteau-neuf-du-,pape of the ,rhne2 ,saint-,emilion and ,sainte-,croix-du-,mont of the ,gironde1 as well as many of the priceless growths of the ,haut-,mdoc4 ,like the odour of old arras1 around the roseate and golden clusters of the vine clings the incense of prelacy and circles the aureole of the church4 ,one were more than ungrateful1 too1 to forget the invaluable services rendered by ,dom ,prignon in contributing to the vinous delights of the table4 ,fancy1 if one can1 a world without champagne--not as a daily beverage1 but as a talisman to loosen the tongues of the timid and a wand to evoke the joyous sally and brilliant repartee6 ,with what other potable may one so appropriately pledge not only le beau sexe des deux hemisphres1 mais les deux hemisphres du beau sexe8 ,almost equally to be commended are the ,carthusian friars of ,dauphin1 who evolved the greens and golds of ,chartreuse2 the cenobites of ,la ,grce-,dieu1 who produced ,trappistine2 the ,trappists of l',allier1 in whose cloister originated the elixir of long life1 de ,sept-,fonds2 and the holy fathers of ,rouen1 who invented the delicious balm of ,bon-,secours4 ,the religious orders were early famed for their distillations4 ,in the account of his travels in ,italy the observant ,seigneur de ,montaigne mentions the ,jesuits of ,vicenza1 who had a liqueur-shop in their monastery1 as well as the monks of ,verona1 who were excellent distillers of eau de naffe1 a liqueur made with the flower of citron4 ,the famous ,bndictine1 however1 a rival of ,chartreuse1 though at present made by the monks of ,fcamp in ,normandy1 and therefore possessing the stamp of monachism1 was not of spiritual inspiration4 ,like the eau de vie des ,carmes1 ,liqueur des ,evques1 ,eau ,archipiscopale1 ,liqueur des ,chartreux1 ,plaisir des ,dames1 and ,huile des ,jeunes ,maris1 it was worldly in its inception4 ,its history is interesting4 ,in #ahjc ,m4 ,le ,grand1 an enterprising wine-merchant of ,fcamp1 set about its manufacture1 advertising it to the amount of eight hundred thousand francs1--his entire fortune1--the claim being made that the secret of its fabrication was consigned by a ,benedictine brother to a manuscript in #aeaj and opportunely discovered by the vender4 ,the venture proved successful1 as indeed the virtues of the liqueur merited1 its annual sale now exceeding a million bottles4 ,at first the clergy protested loudly against the bald appropriation of the name of an abbey1 and ,cardinal ,bonnechose#cf petitioned ,napoleon ,,iii to put an end to the scandal1 the restored order eventually taking up the manufacture of the cordial and signing it with the name of the inventor1 whose final ,benedicite was recently pronounced4 ,the present ,archbishop of ,rouen came to bless the most recent constructions of the abbey1 among which is a superb ,salle des ,abbs1 and1 at the banquet following the ceremonial1 during the dessert he compared the inventor of the liqueur to several of the heroes of ,christianity4 ,benedictine 7ad majorem ,dei gloriam7 is the only important liqueur thus far which has escaped analysis1 although imitations of this and all others that have proved successful are freely placed upon the market4 ,curaoa1 it is said1 was discovered by a ,french chanoine1 and the aroma of the wild cherry imprisoned in ,maraschino by an ,italian frate4 ,a ,german ,pfarrer1 it is averred1 first dissolved gold in the eau de vie de ,dantzig1 and through a ,spanish sacerdote is said to have come ,santa ,cruz1 the rum of the ,holy ,cross4 ,in the quest for the elixir of life the monastery became the great alembic of liqueurs1 the study of essences1 spirits1 and distillations varying with the labour of illuminating missals and the routine of religious devotions4 ,during the thirteenth century ,arnaud de ,villeneuve formulated the question of the elixir of life in these terms1 which became a dogma for all his monastic successors3 ,this is the secret1 viz41 to find substances so homogeneous to our nature that they can increase it without inflaming it1 continue it without diminishing it1 444 as our life continually loses somewhat1 until at last all is lost4 ,the outcome of the patient labours of these religious alchemists was numerous elixirs and liqueurs1 of which the secret composition was transmitted from generation to generation in convents and monasteries4 ,these liqueurs were in their origin simply a pharmaceutic product2 it is only within a comparatively short time that they have been converted into after-dinner douceurs4 ,every useful art1 however1 must find perfection of expression sooner or later1 notably an art which is a necessity and which likewise appeals to the lawful gratification of the senses4 ,and if cookery was fostered by the cloisters of ,europe1 and reached its zenith during the early part of the past century in ,paris1 it is equally true that at no time in the history of the world has it attained such general excellence as at present4 ,but let the religious orders and the priesthood be credited with their full share in its advancement4 ,they are no exception to the generality of mankind in being blessed with appetites1 but they are sufficiently intelligent to recognise that in a well-appointed cuisine there exist both a prophylactic to ennui and the best of pharmacopias4 ,let the spit turn merrily1 therefore1 and the carp fatten in their ponds2 let the flower of the vine and the pressings of the grape distil for them their fragrance2 let them repeat their paternosters and chant in concert their penitential psalms3 #a4 ,one herring and one herring make two herrings1 ,two herrings and one herring make three herrings4 #b4 ,three herrings and one herring make four herrings1 ,four herrings and one herring make five herrings4 #c4 ,five herrings and one herring make six herrings4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,and so on up to a hundred herrings4 ,from salted1 red1 or smoked herrings1 libera nos1 ,domine2 ,from cold water as a beverage1 libera nos1 ,domine4 ,a- a- a- amen6 ,it is most unfortunate that ,la ,reynire omitted to bequeath to posterity a certain monastic recipe of marvellous merit used in connection with wild fowl and all manner of game-birds1 which is thus described in the brilliant opening essay of the first year of the ,almanach1 the author's reference being to the wild duck1 which he advises to be cooked la broche1 as it thus preserves all its fumet without losing any of its other qualities3 ,after it has been roasted and carved he proceeds to say a sort of poignant salmis may be prepared on the table1 the recipe for which we have been in possession of for a long time1 and which was given to us by the procureur of a ,bernardin abbey--the sole riches that the ,revolution could not confiscate from him2 this formula1 however1 we must reserve for our most intimate friends4 ,the recipe is not to be found in any nutritive dispensary1 and it becomes all the more precious inasmuch as1 not being applicable to the duck alone1 it may be utilized with all kinds of dark-fleshed feathered game1 and especially with partridges and woodcock--which renders it inappreciable4 ,far less can be said of the ,protestant clergy on the score of cookery or with respect to the improvement of the vine and the invention of beverages4 ,nearly all clerical roads lead through ,rome1 it would seem1 in so far as relates to gastronomy4 ,moreover1 in ,protestant countries--at least among the lesser lights of the church--it is rather the rector who is fted than who does the fting1 and who1 even were he inclined to asceticism1 would scarcely be allowed to practise it by his parishioners4 ,in one of his essays1 ,the ,country ,sunday1 ,richard ,jefferies tells how the chapel pastor is entertained at table in ,wiltshire3 ,there is no man so feasted as the chapel pastor4 ,he dines every ,sunday1 and at least once a week besides1 at the house of one of his stoutest upholders4444 ,after dinner the cognac bottle is produced1 and the pastor fills his tumbler half full of spirit1 and but lightly dashes it with water4 ,it is cognac1 and not brandy1 for your chapel minister thinks it an affront if anything more common than the best ,french liquor is put before him3 he likes it strong1 and with it his long clay pipe4 ,very frequently another minister1 sometimes two or three1 come in at the same time1 and take the same dinner1 and afterwards form a genial circle with cognac and tobacco1 when the room speedily becomes full of smoke and the bottle of brandy soon disappears4 ,in these family parties there is not the least approach to over-conviviality2 it is merely the custom1 no one thinks anything of a glass and a pipe2 it is perfectly innocent2 it is not a local thing1 but common and understood4 ,the consumption of brandy and tobacco and the good things of dinner1 tea1 and supper 7for the party generally sit out the three meals7 must in a month cost the host a good deal of money1 but all things are cheerfully borne for the good of the church4 ,never were men feasted with such honest good-will as these pastors2 and if a budding ,paul or ,silas happens to come along who has scarce yet passed his ordination1 the youthful divine may stay a week if he likes1 and lick the platter clean4 ,one also remembers the curates' dinner as described in ,the ,professor by that keen observer1 ,charlotte ,bront3 ,the curates had good appetites1 and though the beef was tough1 they ate a great deal of it4 ,they swallowed1 too1 a tolerable allowance of the 'flat beer1' while a dish of ,yorkshire pudding and two tureens of vegetables disappeared like leaves before locusts4 ,the cheese1 too1 received distinguished marks of their attention2 and a 'spice-cake1' which followed by way of dessert1 vanished like a vision and was no more found4 ,anthony ,hayward1 in ,the ,art of ,dining1 tells the story of the phenomenal appetite of a chaplain during the ,old ,bailey sittings1 when it was the custom to serve two dinners 7exact duplicates7 a day1 the first at three o'clock1 the second at five3 ,the first course was rather miscellaneous1 varying with the season1 though marrow-puddings always formed a part of it2 the second never varied and consisted exclusively of beefsteaks4 ,as the judges relieved each other1 it was impracticable for them to partake of both2 but a little chaplain whose duty it was to preside at the lower end of the table was never absent from his post4 ,this invaluable public servant persevered from a sheer sense of duty till he had acquired the habit of eating two dinners a day1 and practised it for nearly ten years without any perceptible injury to his health4 ,we had the pleasure of witnessing his performance at one of the five o'clock dinners1 and can assert with confidence that the vigour of his attack on the beefsteaks was wholly unimpaired by the effective execution a friend assured us he had done on them two hours before4 ,the last communication from the ,rev4 ,sydney ,smith to ,canon ,barham1 better known as ,thomas ,ingoldsby1 related to gastronomy1 with the ethics of which he was so conversant1 the canon having just sent him a pannier of pheasants4 ,many thanks1 my dear sir1 for your kind present of game1 wrote the appreciative recipient4 ,if there is a pure and elevated pleasure in this world1 it is that of roast pheasant and bread-sauce2 barn-door fowls for dissenters1 but for the real churchman1 the thirty-nine times articled clerk1 the pheasant6 the pheasant6 ,why the witty rector of ,combe-,florey declared that when he found himself seated next to a bishop at a dinner-party he became so nervous that he could do nothing but crumble his bread1 and when his place adjoined that of an archbishop he crumbled it with both hands1 seems inexplicable1 unless it had been his mischance to encounter among his superiors in office more accomplished epularians than himself4 ,besides his celebrated poetical recipes for a salad1 which are presented in a following chapter1 his less familiar ,receipt to ,roast ,mutton may not be omitted from references to ecclesiastic good cheer3 ,gently stir and blow the fire1 ,lay the mutton down to roast1 ,dress it quickly1 ,i desire1 ,in the dripping put a toast1 ,that ,i hunger may remove-- ,mutton is the meat ,i love4 ,on the dresser see it lie2 ,oh6 the charming white and red2 ,finer meat ne'er met the eye1 ,on the sweetest grass it fed3 ,let the jack go swiftly round1 ,let me have it nicely brown'd4 ,on the table spread the cloth1 ,let the knives be sharp and clean1 ,pickles get and salad both1 ,let them each be fresh and green4 ,with small beer1 good ale1 and wine1 ,o ye gods6 how ,i shall dine6 ,canon ,barham1 no less than ,sydney ,smith1 wielded a valiant spoon1 and to the unpunctual at dinner he has delivered one of his most forcible sermons in ,the ,lay of ,st4 ,cuthbert3 ,when asked out to dine by a ,person of ,quality1 ,mind and observe the most strict punctuality6 ,for should you come late1 and make dinner wait1 ,and the victuals get cold1 you'll incur1 sure as fate1 ,the ,master's displeasure1 the ,mistress's hate4 ,and though both may1 perhaps1 be too well-bred to swear1-- ,they'll heartily wish you--,i need not say ,where4 ,grace before meat is usually well expressed by the reverend clergy1 and perhaps the brief introductory thanksgiving of the late ,canon ,shuttleworth is as happy as any3 ,for good life and good health2 for good company and good cheer1 may the ,giver of all good things make us thankful4 ,so far as orthodox graces are concerned1 it were difficult to improve upon the two fervent thanksgivings of ,psalms ,,xxxiv and ,,cxlv3 ,the lions do lack1 and suffer hunger3 but they who seek the ,lord shall want no manner of thing that is good4 ,the eyes of all wait upon thee1 ,o ,lord3 and thou givest them their meat in due season4 ,thou openest thine hand3 and fillest all things living with plenteousness4 ,so many ,protestant denominations exist in ,america that the manner of entertaining the ministry varies considerably4 ,in no religious sect does fine champagne or any other form of cognac figure1 as a general rule1 though the use of vinous beverages is less denounced at present than formerly4 ,the most genial hosts and guests among ,protestant divines are unquestionably the ,episcopalians4 ,but if claret and alcoholic beverages are the exception on the tables of many denominations1 the pastor does not lack for substantial aliments when entertained by his parishioners1 who here1 as in ,england1 fairly dispute for his possession4 ,that the duck at least1 among the toothsome contributions to the table1 is appreciated by the ,protestant clergy no less than the laity is apparent from the apostrophe to the canvasback of the ,rev4 ,joseph ,barber1 who has addressed the king of the ,anseres in these colourful stanzas3 ,a duck has been immortalized by ,bryant1 ,a wild one1 too2 ,sweetly he hymned the creature1 lithe and buoyant1 ,cleaving the blue4 ,but whoso says the duck through ether flying1 ,seen by the bard1 ,equals the canvasback before me lying1 ,tells a canard4 ,done to a turn1 the flesh a dark carnation1 ,the gravy red2 ,four slices from the breast--on such a ration ,gods might have fed4 ,bryant1 go to3 to say that thy rare ghost-duck1 ,traced 'gainst the sky1 ,could e'er at all compare with this rare roast duck1 ,is all my eye4#cg ,as regards wine the case is vastly different in ,europe1 among both the clergy and those who welcome them4 ,when ,urban ,x resolved to remove the ,papal ,see from ,avignon to ,rome grave discord resulted among his cardinals1 several of whom refused to accompany him4 ,petrarch1 in reply to a letter received from the ,pope soon afterwards1 wherein his ,holiness expressed his astonishment at their action1 explained the reason thus briefly3 ,most holy ,father1 he wrote1 the princes of the church esteem the wine of ,provence1 and know that the wines of ,france are more rare than holy water at ,rome4 ,the anecdote of the cur of a village in the ,bordelais would indicate1 furthermore1 that the cloth prefer their wine in a non-diluted state4 ,on the occasion of a wedding dinner at which the officiating pastor was present1 he would exclaim after every course1 as he raised his glass3 ,my children1 with this you must drink some wine4 ,the turn of dessert arriving1 he repeated his injunction for the tenth time1 again setting the example himself4 ,pardon1 ,monsieur le ,cur1 one of the guests interrupted1 but with what do you not drink wine8 ,with water1 my son6 ,during the episcopate of ,bishop ,timon of ,buffalo1 a ,roman ,catholic prelate of great ability but of small stature1 complaint was entered against a certain ,german priest of the diocese for his over-conviviality and partiality for the foaming glass of ,gambrinus1 the offender being a man of ,falstaffian proportions4 ,the priest was accordingly summoned1 and1 after being severely reprimanded1 was asked by the bishop if he could bring forward any extenuating circumstances with regard to his conduct4 ,your ,reverence is a small man1 and my detractors are men of small calibre1 who require but little beer1 was the reply4 ,i am a large man1 as you are aware1 with a large appetite1 and what might suffice for others were scant pittance for me3 the vessel should be filled according to its capacity4 ,that so distinguished a church dignitary as a bishop should dine well goes without saying4 ,how else might he be so urbane1 so stately1 and so contented6 ,and without wine how might he dispense such sunshine or pronounce his blessings so sonorously6 ,for a bishop1 dean1 or archdeacon to be tendered scanty fare or be toasted with ice-water were as incongruous as to deprive the beverage termed bishop of its main ingredient4 ,when ,bishop ,magee of ,peterborough1 afterwards ,archbishop of ,york1 was entertained by another church dignitary he was told on his arrival that he would find wine in his room4 ,the dinner which he afterwards sat down to was a wineless one4 ,a few weeks later the positions of host and guest were reversed1 whereupon the bishop1 shaking hands heartily with his visitor1 informed him that he would find water in his room and wine upon the table4 ,scarcely any bishop1 says ,sydney ,smith1 is sufficiently a man of the world to deal with fanatics4 ,the way is not to reason with them1 but to ask them to dinner4 ,they are armed against logic and remonstrance1 but they are puzzled in a labyrinth of wines1 disarmed by facilities and concessions1 introduced to a new world1 and come away thinking more of hot and cold and dry and sweet than of ,newman1 ,keble1 and ,pusey4 ,a number of years ago1 when long tables were in vogue at the great hostelries at ,saratoga1 ,bishop ,onderdonk of ,new ,york was among the guests4 ,the bishop1 in accordance with his station1 was seated at the head of the table1 where the attentive head waiter had just placed his bottle of hotel ,pontet-,canet4 ,among the other clerical guests was a ,connecticut divine and teetotaler who had come to test the restorative virtues of ,congress water1 so delicious when drunk at the fountainhead in the morning4 ,ah6 said the cynical dominie to a ministerial vis--vis1 as he frowned over his ,oolong and the portly prelate beamed over his ,bordeaux1 he wants to prove his apostolic descent by showing that if he drink of any deadly thing it shall not hurt him4 ,later1 when his ,right ,reverence was informed of the remark1 he observed1 quoting ,ecclesiasticus as his would-be detractor had quoted ,st4 ,mark1 ',wine measurably drunk and in season bringeth gladness of the heart and cheerfulness of the mind1' and as a churchman it were heretical for me to take exception to so orthodox a precept4 ,the minister whose knowledge of gastronomy is far exceeded by his zeal in reforming1 notably in an attempted extermination of all joyous fluids1 is far more prevalent in the ,united ,states than abroad4 ,while no one will object to his denunciation of ,king ,rum or the ,wine-cup1--though rum is but little used as a beverage1 and wine is supposed to be consumed in glasses at the dinner-table1--one must nevertheless deplore the inconsistency which would annihilate all alcoholic fluids and permit the grossest heterodoxness of diet to pass unscathed4 ,not undeserved1 perchance1 are the lines addressed to this class of the clergy by a ,western versifier3 ,he preached 'gainst whisky1 rum1 and gin1 ,all use of liquor he'd decry2 ,he said that drinking was a sin-- ,but eat the toughest kind of pie4 ,he said there was no greater vice ,than that which made of man a sot-- ,but took not water without ice1 ,and gorged himself on biscuit hot4 ,he flouted the advice of ,paul ,to drink wine for the stomach's sake-- ,but give him dumpling in a ball1 ,and any quantity he'd take4 ,tobacco in each form he spurned1 ,its soothing virtues he denied2 ,for him no soft ,havana burned-- ,but he would eat a beefsteak fried4 ,jaundiced he lived1 and died of spleen1 ,and some kept green his memory then-- ,called him 'reformer1' who had been ,the most intemperate of men4 ,on more catholic lines is the gastronomic experience of a distinguished ,baptist doctor of divinity of western ,new ,york1 who1 though always temperate1 still believes in the sentiment of the grace that was once uttered by an ,english ,episcopal clergyman3 ,god hath given us all things richly to enjoy2 let us enjoy them4 ,the learned divine in his younger days was one of a party of four who were concluding a long sojourn abroad1 and ere leaving ,paris he was desirous of testing the much-vaunted cuisine of the ,trois ,frres ,proveneaux4 ,his suggestion that the appetising odours which greeted the passer-by from without be verified from within having met with immediate approval1 the officier de bouche of the famous restaurant was interviewed and a dinner arranged for the following evening4 ,illustration3 ,,la ,,contenance ,,de ,,la ,,table ,facsimile of title-page1 early part of sixteenth century ,enfant tu ne dois charger ,tant de la premire viande ,se plusieurs en as en commande ,que d'austres ne puisses menger4 ,what will be the price of a nice dinner1 inquired the ecclesiast1--a dinner that will leave us no cause for regret8 ,we do not care for the menu in advance1 as we prefer a surprise2 but we wish a perfect dinner1 neither too little nor too much4 ,the reply was promptly forthcoming1 and here we transcribe a leaf from the ecclesiast's note-book3 ',pour vingt francs un dner ordinaire4 ',pour quarante francs un trs joli dner6 ',pour cent francs un grand dner66'--the voice of the restaurateur rising with the advancing prices4 ,these interesting notes then follow3 ,tuesday1 ,june #c1 #ahfj4 ,present3----1----1----1----4 ,dinner at #g ,p4,m4 ,dress suits4 ,voiture de remise4 ,portier with red waistcoat4 ,cabinet in entresol hung with pink silk tapestry4 ,three garons1 fine china1 silver and table appointments4 ,a bouquet of roses4 ,perfect service4 ,menu4 ,nine courses3--,melon musqu d',algiers4 ,potage la bisque 7red soup with little red shrimps in centre of each dish74 ,vol-au-vent de saumon4444 ,salade4 ,checkerboard ice-cream 7sixteen different colours and flavours74 ,great strawberries4 ,coffee 7demi-tasse71 cognac1 cigars4 ,four wines3 ,sauterne1 claret1 and two champagnes4 ,unfortunately1 the menu itself has been lost1 and the memory of our clerical informant has retained only a portion of the carte1 which we have transcribed from the memoranda he has contributed4 ,was there a chapon la ,toulouse or noix de veau la ,soubise for the relev2 did lamb's ears la ,tortu or carbonnades de mouton la ,macdoine form the entre2 did a caneton de ,rouen1 a poularde truffe1 or a coq-virge do the honours of the roast2 could des truffes au vin de ,champagne or a gele au marasquin have figured as the entremets2 and1 finally1 what might have been the grosse pice8 ,alas6 these questions1 like many questions of theology1 must remain unanswered4 ,it will be observed1 notwithstanding1 how the wall furnishings1 the roses1 the red of the bisque1 the ripe hues of the melon and the salmon1 the erubescence of the strawberries1 and the very waistcoat of the avertisseur were happily combined2 and also that as far back as #ahfj the muskmelon had already been employed as an admirable prologue of the dinner during warm weather4 ,as for the checkerboard crme glace1 with four flavours and four colours for each person1 it is an addition to the dessert that is almost worthy of a sermon4 ,the following supplementary notes conclude the interesting account of the dinner3 ,the solid part of the menu ,i have no record or memory of4 ,all ,i know is that we ate pretty much everything that was in sight1 and then had just enough and no more4 ,the dinner concluded with four toasts and four speeches1 the only one ,i recall being on the theme1 ',the ,four ,homes'--not one of the four speakers having at the time set up a home of his own4 ,a thing of beauty is a joy forever4 ,we went upon the ,latin maxim1 ,in medio tutissimus ibis1 and so we took the trs joli dner1 which1 with vins compris1 cost us forty francs or eight dollars apiece4 ,but the recollection of it has been worth at least two dollars a year since then3 and as it is forty years ago last summer1 and two times forty is eighty1 ,i now count that ,i then paid only ten per cent4 of its value4 ,it is needless to add that the sermons and addresses of the ecclesiast in question1 which join to their fervour and scholarship an originality all their own 7were they not inspired by the dinner at the ,trois ,frres871 are always listened to with marked attention by his large and appreciative audiences4 ,it also goes without saying that he has distinguished himself in literature1 and that his presence is invariably in demand either at a dinner or a debate of theologians4 ,of dishes invented by the ,roman ,catholic priesthood1 the omelette la pure de pintade1 devised by the ,capuchin ,chabot1 is well known1 although ,the ,cur's ,omelette for which ,savarin stands sponsor is far more in evidence and is difficult to improve upon either for fat or meagre days4 ,should the recipe be already familiar1 it will well bear repetition--one cannot dine too often with a broad-minded divine2 if unknown1 the reader should become acquainted with it--it is one of the most sprightly of the ,varits4 ,the tunny prescribed is not obligatory1 and for this and the carp-roes the resources of the ,american sea-coast will furnish abundant equivalents3 ,every one knows that for twenty years ,madame ,r4#ch has occupied the throne of beauty unchallenged4 ,it is also well known that she is extremely charitable1 taking interest in most of those schemes whose object is to console and assist the wretched4 ,wishing to consult ,m4 le ,cur on something connected with that subject1 she called upon him at five o'clock one afternoon1 and was astonished to find him already at table4 ,she thought everybody in ,paris dined at six1 not knowing that the ecclesiastics generally begin early because they take a light collation in the evening4 ,madame ,r4 was about to retire1 but the cur begged her to stay1 either because the matter they were to talk about need not prevent him dining1 or because a pretty woman is never a mar-feast for any man2 or perhaps because he bethought himself that somebody to talk to was all that was wanted to convert his dining-room into a gastronomic ,elysium4 ,the table was laid with a neat white cloth1 some old wine sparkled in a crystal decanter1 the white porcelain was of the choicest quality1 the plates had heaters of boiling water under them1 and a servant1 demure but neat1 was in attendance4 ,the repast was a happy mean between the frugal and the luxurious4 ,some crab soup had just been removed1 and there was now on the table a salmon-trout1 an omelette1 and a salad4 ',my dinner shows you what perhaps you did not know1' said the pastor1 with a smile1 'that according to the laws of the church meat is forbidden to-day4' ,the visitor bowed her assent1 but at the same time1 as a private note informs me1 slightly blushed1 which1 however1 by no means prevented the cur from eating4 ,operations were already begun upon the trout1 its upper side being fully disposed of2 the sauce gave proof of a skilful hand1 and the pastor's features betokened inward satisfaction4 ,that dish removed1 he attacked the omelette1 which was round1 full-bellied1 and cooked to a nicety4 ,at the first stroke of the spoon1 there ran out a thick juice1 tempting both to sight and smell2 the dish seemed full of it1 and my dear cousin confessed that her mouth watered4 ,some signs of natural sympathy did not escape the cur1 accustomed to watch the passions of men2 and1 as if in answer to a question which ,madame ,r4 took great care not to put1 'this is a tunny omelette1' said he4 ',my cook has a wonderful knack at them4 ,nobody ever tastes them without complimenting me4' ',i am not at all astonished1' replied the lady visitor2 'for on our worldly tables there is never seen an omelette half so tempting4' ,this was followed by the salad--a finishing item which ,i recommend to the use of all who have faith in my teaching1 for salad refreshes without fatiguing1 and strengthens without irritating4 ,i usually say it renews one's youth4 ,the dinner did not interrupt their conversation4 ,besides the matter in hand1 they spoke of the events of the time1 the hopes of the church1 and other topics4 ,the dessert passed1 consisting of some ,septmoncel cheese1 three apples1 and some preserved fruit2 and then the servant placed on a small table a cup of hot mocha1 clear as amber1 and filling the room with its aroma4 ,having sipped his coffee1 the cur said grace4 ',i never drink spirits1' he said as they rose2 'it is a superfluity ,i offer to my guests1 but personally reserve as a resource for old age should it please ,god that ,i live so long4' ,in the meantime six o'clock had arrived1 and ,madame ,r41 hurrying home1 found herself late for dinner1 and several friends waiting for her whom she had invited for that day4 ,i was one of the party1 and thus came to hear of the cur's omelette2 for our hostess did nothing but speak of it during dinner1 and everybody was certain it must have been excellent4 ,thus it is that as a propagator of truths ,i feel it my duty to make known the preparation2 and ,i give it the more willingly to all lovers of the art that ,i have not been able to find it in any cookery book4 ,hash up together the roes of two carp1 carefully bleached1 a piece of fresh tunny1 and a little minced shallot2 when well mixed throw the whole into a saucepan with a lump of the best butter1 and whip it up till the butter is melted4 ,this constitutes the specialty of the omelette4 ,then in an oval dish mix separately a lump of butter with parsley and chives1 and squeezing over it the juice of a lemon1 place it over hot embers in readiness4 ,next complete the omelette by beating up twelve eggs1 pouring in the roes and tunny1 and stirring till all is well mixed2 then1 when properly finished1 and of the right form and consistence1 spread it out skilfully on the oval dish which you have ready to receive it1 and serve up to be eaten at once4 ,this dish should be reserved for breakfasts of refinement1 for connoisseurs in gastronomic art--those who understand eating1 and where all eat with judgment2 but especially let it be washed down with some good old wine1 and you will see wonders4 ,among the dignitaries of the ,roman ,church1 ,richelieu was preminent as an entertainer1 his table being renowned for its excellence1 and no one being more exacting with his cooks4 ,a chartreuse la ,cardinal or a boudin of fowls la ,richelieu at once recalls his ,eminence1 and the brilliant reign during which he himself virtually wielded the sceptre4 ,i do not think very highly of that man1 said the ,comte de ,m4 in speaking of a candidate who had just secured an important position3 he has never eaten boudin la ,richelieu1 and is unacquainted with cutlets la ,soubise4 ,during the war of ,hanover1 when the surrounding country had been devastated by the ,french army1 ,marchal ,richelieu1 grandnephew of the cardinal1 wished to give a suitable dinner to a large number of distinguished captives before setting them free4 ,he was informed by his cooks that the larder was empty4 ,but it was only yesterday that ,i saw two horns passing by the window4 ,that is true1 ,monseigneur1 there is a beef and some few roots2 but what would you do with them8 ,what would ,i do with them8 ,pardieu1 ,i would have the best supper in the world6 ,but1 ,monseigneur1 it is impossible4 ,nothing is impossible4 ,rudire1 write out the menu that ,i will dictate4 ,do you know how to write out a menu properly8 ,i acknowledge1 ,monseigneur1 that-- ,give me your pen4 ,and with this the marchal1 taking the place of his secretary1 improvised a classic supper worthy of ,vatel4 ,at the end of the bill of fare was added3 ,if through any mischance this repast is not an excellent one1 ,i will deduct one hundred pistoles from the wages of ,maret and ,rouquelre4 ,begin1 and doubt no more4 ,,richelieu4 ,there was a certain ,bishop of ,burgundy who took his share of responsibility in consuming1 with a humour all his own1 viands which had not been come by legally4 ,desiring to eat venison when not quite in season1 he sent half the body of the deer that tempted him as a present to the prefect1 who lived in the same town1 accompanying the gift with the following note3 ,partageons la responsabilit3 chargez-vous du temporel2 je me charge du spirituel4 7,let us share the responsibility2 charge yourself with the temporal part2 ,i will attend to the spiritual47 ,equally felicitous is an incident recounted of ,archbishop de ,sanzai of ,bordeaux1 who was especially fond of the fowl which ,savarin pronounced one of the finest gifts of the ,new ,world to the ,old4 ,having won a truffled turkey on a wager from a grand vicar of his diocese1 the archbishop1 after waiting a week1 became impatient at the delay of the loser in providing the bird4 ,accordingly1 he took him to task and reminded him that delays are dangerous1 to which the vicar replied that the truffles were not good that year4 ,bah1 bah6 was the rejoinder1 we will chance the truffles2 depend upon it1 it is only a false report that has been circulated by the turkeys4 ,there needs to be two to eat a truffled turkey1 the ,abb ,morellet was accustomed to say2 ,i never do otherwise4 ,i have one to-day2 we will be two--the turkey and myself4 ,it may be of interest to note that the importation of the turkey to ,europe has been attributed by various scholiasts to the ,jesuits1 in proof of which they assert that in many ,french provinces it was formerly termed a jsuite1 and that in some of the more remote departments it was the custom to refer to it in the following manner3 ,come to dine with me2 we will have a fat jsuite4 ,monsieur1 will you pass me some of the jsuite8 ,it is also said to have been referred to as a jsuite en capilotade and a jsuite au feu d'enfer4 ,savarin gives the period of its importation by the order in question as the latter part of the seventeenth century2 while the ,marquis de ,cussy states it was imported a century earlier from ,paraguay by the ,jesuits1 and was served for the first time in public at the marriage of ,charles ,,ix of ,france1 when1 according to ,montluc1 the young king disposed of the left wing4 ,the true date of the turkey's flight into history is the early part of the sixteenth century1 when the learned confessor and historian to ,cortez1 ,fra ,agapida1 returned to ,spain from his first visit to ,mexico1 and wrote a brief narrative of the wonders of the ,new ,world4 ,in this account he called attention to the abundance of fine fish-food1 and the excellence of the venison and a variety of wild cattle4 ,there is also a bird1 adds the discerning presbyter1 much greater in bigness than a peacock1 that is found within the forests and vegas 7meadows7 all over this country4 ,it surpasses as food any wild bird we have found up to this time4 ,the natives do shoot these birds with arrows and catch them in various kinds of springes and snares4 ,they are sometimes very large1 being as much as thirty pounds in weight4 ,they can fly1 but prefer to run1 which they can do with exceeding swiftness4 ,no less is the introduction of the potato from ,south ,america due to the monks1 who first brought it to ,europe in the proud galleons of ,spain4 ,in ,canon ,barham's ,a ,lay of ,st4 ,nicholas1 where the temptations of the flesh proved stronger than the spiritual powers of the head of the abbey1 turkey and chine figure as the pieces of resistance1 with old sherris sack1 hippocras1 and malmsey to flank them1-- ,the ,abbot hath donn'd his mitre and ring1 ,his rich dalmatic and maniple fine2 ,and the choristers sing as the lay-brothers bring ,to the board a magnificent turkey and chine4 ,the capon1 however1 appears to have been the greatest favourite with the clergy2 its frequent companion1 the carp1 doubtless owing its popularity to the fact that it is so easily raised1 rather than that it is more esteemed than numerous other species of fish4 ,even more than the capon1 the carp suggests the cenobites1 bringing up a whole train of monastic orders--with the cloister and the abbey as its most congenial home4 ,it is inalienably associated with the cassock and chasuble1 the rosary and censer1 the peal of the organ and the glory of old stained glass4 ,it is essentially the sacred fish--the true sole of piety4 ,it whispers of sanctity and breathes of ,benedicites4 ,in fancy one sees the abbot1 rotund and rubicund1 presiding at table1 with one eye upon the fish and the other lifted aloft1 uttering his ,bonum est confiteri ere the loud ,amen resounds through the vaulted chamber1 and carp and capon are bathed in the red juices of the monastery vineyard4 ,or it may be a pike1 a mullet1 or a dish of eels that1 cunningly prepared by the master-cook of the brotherhood1 steeps the refectory with the perfume of shallots and fine herbs1 and justly merits a ,benedic1 anima mea from the partakers of the repast4 ,from an anecdote related by the ,franciscan ,jean ,paulli de ,thann1 it would appear that the olden monks had learned from the ,scriptures a particular method of carving fowls when they partook of them in secular company4 ,a gentleman had invited his confessor1 who was a monk1 to dine in company with his wife1 his two sons1 and two daughters4 ,there was a fine capon for the roast1 which the host requested the guest to carve4 ,the latter excused himself1 but the host insisted4 ,inasmuch as you demand it1 replied the monk1 ,i will carve the fowl according to biblical principles4 ,yes1 exclaimed the hostess1 act according to the ,scriptures4 ,the theologian therefore began the carving4 ,the baron was tendered the head of the fowl1 the baroness the neck1 the two daughters a wing apiece1 and the two sons a first joint1 the monk retaining the remainder4 ,according to what interpretation do you make such a division8 inquired the host of his confessor1 as he regarded the monk's heaping plate and the scant portions doled out to the family4 ,from an interpretation of my own1 replied the monk4 ,as the master of your house1 the head belongs to you by right2 the baroness1 being most near to you1 should receive the neck1 which is nearest the head2 in the wings the young girls will recognize a symbol of their mobile thoughts1 that fly from one desire to another2 as to the young barons1 the drumsticks they have received will remind them that they are responsible for supporting your house1 as the legs of the capon support the bird itself4 ,in ,england1 during ,elizabeth's reign1 fish was largely consumed on the festival of ,st4 ,ulric1 a pious custom referred to by ,barnaby ,googe3 ,wheresoever ,huldryche hath his place1 the people there brings in ,both carpes and pykes1 and mullets fat1 his favour here to win4 ,amid the church there sitteth one1 and to the aultar nie1 ,that selleth fishe1 and so good cheep1 that every man may buie2 ,nor anything he loseth here1 bestowing thus his paine1 ,for when it hath been offred once1 't is brought him all againe1 ,that twise or thrise he selles the same1 vngodlinesse such gaine ,doth still bring in1 and plenteously the kitchen doth maintaine4 ,whence comes this same religion newe8 ,what kind of ,god is this ,same ,huldryche here1 that so desires and so delightes in fishe8 ,with fish much is possible in the way of a generous dietary during the ,lenten penance and on meagre days4 ,to the devout ,thomas ,kempis nothing was more delicious to the taste than a salmon1 always excepting the ,psalms of ,david4 ,the possibilities of a fish diet1 however1 have nowhere been more appreciably set forth than by ,father ,prout on the occasion of the classic ,watergrasshill ,carousal1 when ,sir ,walter ,scott was among the guests4 ,and though the turkey which was in readiness was forgone on account of the day being ,friday and therefore a fast-day1 the repast1 nevertheless1 did not languish4 ,the trout1 it will be remembered1 the witty priest had caught himself from the neighbouring stream1 as well as a large eel from the lake at ,blarney4 ,to these were added from the excellent market at ,cork a turbot1 two lobsters1 a salmon1 and a hake1 with a hundred of ,cork-harbour oysters4 ,besides these figured also a keg of cod-sounds1 a great favourite of the bishop of the diocese1 which invariably appeared at the table of ,father ,prout when his lordship was expected4 ,with eggs1 potatoes1 sauce piquante1 lobster-sauce1 whiskey and claret in addition1 the sacerdotal banquet proved a signal success1 fully bearing out the sentiment expressed by the shepherd in the ,noctes at the end of a ,scottish repast1--,we 've just had a perfec' dinner1 ,mr4 ,tickler--neither ae dish ower mony1 nor ae dish ower few4 ,fish naturally demands a white wine2 but a carp may be prepared--and doubtless is prepared--so sauced and spiced and aromatised by practised cloistral hands that a red wine1 the favoured colour of the cowl1 may accord with it perfectly4 ,this is not saying that an abbot who may be as renowned for his gastronomic abilities as for his oratory necessarily confines himself or his followers to red wine with fish4 ,much will depend1 of course1 upon the mode of preparation1--it is to be supposed that the cellarer has both red and white wine at command to draw from as occasion demands2 to be confined to a single variety must be as onerous to the cloth as to the layman4 ,when the celebrated vineyard of ,clos-,vougeot was the property of the ,bernardin monks1 before it was confiscated and declared national property1 ,dom ,gobelot was the father-cellarer4 ,it was he who1 after being forced to retire to private life at ,dijon1 with a hundred dozen bottles of a famous year of his vineyard as a souvenir1 proudly replied to the young ,bonaparte1 conqueror in ,italy and returning from ,marengo1 when he requested some old ,vougeot for his table3 ,if he wishes some forty-year-old ,vougeot1 let him come and drink it here2 it is not for sale4 ,and does not history record that ,pope ,gregory ,,xvi1 in the year #acga1 made the ,abbot of ,clos-,vougeot a cardinal to express his gratitude for a present of a basket of his best old wine which the abbot had sent him8 ,the famous wine of ,est1 ,est1 ,est owes its celebrity to a ,german bishop named ,fuger1 who1 while on a journey to ,italy1 sent his secretary in advance in order to provide the best accommodations4 ,he was especially charged to test the wine in all the inns en route1 and wherever he found it best to write the word ,est on the wall of the albergo4 ,arriving at ,montefiascone1 a small town on the highroad from ,florence to ,rome1 the secretary found the wine so superior that he was at a loss to describe it until he bethought him of the inscription that a sultan of ,lahore had engraved on the door of his seraglio1--,if there is a paradise on earth1 it is here1 it is here1 it is here6 ,accordingly1 he wrote the word ,est thrice in large characters on the wall of the principal inn--a fatal word for the bishop1 who tarried so long and drank so freely that he died ere reaching his destination--,rome4 ,his tomb exists at ,montefiascone4 ,on either side of his mitre and his arms his secretary had carved a reversed glass1 with this epitaph on the stone3 ,est1 ,est1 ,est1 et propter nimium est ,johannes de ,fuger dominus meus mortuus est4 ,the explanation of the epitaph and emblems is given by the ,roman prelate1 ,valery4 ,it is still further averred that the death of ,cardinal ,mauri1 a distinguished ,italian prelate1 whose remains were interred near those of the ,german bishop in the ,church of ,st4 ,flavien1 was also hastened by his fondness for the ,montefiascone wine4 ,the story of the bibulous bishop was told in #ahbe in ,german1 in a poem of fourteen stanzas1 by ,wilhelm ,mller1 father of ,professor ,max ,mller4#ci ,it has also been excellently rendered in ,english verse by an ,american poetess whose name the efforts of the writer have been unable to trace3 ,men have ridden for love1 ,and men have ridden for gold1 ,and men have ridden for honour ,in the chivalrous days of old4 ,little of love recked he1 ,nor honour1 nor golden store1 ,but the ,abbot would ride for dinner1 ,and he rode for good wine more4 ',i will travel the world1 ,travel the world in quest-- ,taste red1 white1 and yellow1' ,cried this jolly old fellow1 ',till ,i find the wine that is best4' ,vanitas vanitorum6 ',my servant leal1' said he1 ',now ride thou on before1 ,and drink where'er the branches ,hang withering at the door4 ,then1 if the wine be worthy1 ,that ,i should stop at all1 ,write est--but if it is not1 ,write non upon the wall4' ,promptly rode the man1 ,in hamlet1 city1 and town1 ,albergo and osteria1 ,he gulped the good wine down4 ,where'er the wine was worthy ,there they slept or dined1-- ,before1 the trusty varlet1 ,the lazier monk behind4 ,among the hills and valleys1 ,festooned with wreathing vine1 ,where purple grapes and opal ,drop red and golden wine1 ,there is a wine delicious ,in a hamlet little known1 ,with a taste like the mountain flower ,that blooms in spring alone4 ,here pause1 ,o wandering ,abbot6 ,thy ponderous frame can rest1 ,lo6 the prudent1 observant1 ,intelligent servant ,has written here ',est1 ,est1 ,est4' ,the ,abbot he drank at dinner1 ,the ,abbot he drank at night1 ,and he called for more fiasci ,when dawned the morning light4 ,he murmured1 ',i go no farther1 ,per ,bacco6 ,i cease my quest2 ,wine of ,hymettus sweetness1 ,nectar of gods1--est1 est6 ,but even an ,abbot has limits1 ,though his were exceeding wide2 ,he passed them and1 as you can fancy1 ,dropped from the table and died3 ,drowned as it were in the nectar1 ,dead of the wine that is best1 ,in his hand the empty wine-cup1 ,his last words ',est1 est1 est6' ,vanitas vanitorum6 ,this very same wine we are drinking ,to-night in classic ,rome1 ,sipping it after dinner ,in our quiet foreign home4 ,i have told as ,i heard the story1 ,and now the white wine that is best1 ,let us all fill a bowl of-- ,here's peace to the soul of ,the monk of the ,est1 ,est1 ,est6 ,to judge of the quality of ,montefiascone1 one must drink it at its home2 like other white wines of the former ,papal ,states1 it will not bear the shock of distant carriage4 ,as for the ,german ecclesiast1 one should not take him too seriously1 but consider him rather from the picturesque point of view1 as ,rowlandson and ,combe have done with the reverend ,syntax4 ,other times1 other manners1--to-day his reverence would have made the journey by rail and not by post1 and thus1 doubtless1 would have missed the fiasci of ,montefiascone4 ,one must also bear in mind that the wine in question1 being of the muscat type1 is extremely heady and exciting to the nerves1 its deleterious effects being masked by its unctuousness and engaging aroma2 so that an unsuspecting beer-drinking bishop1 accustomed to copious libations of a milder fluid1 might readily and unwittingly find himself under the table1 and1 even though a hierarch1 prove an easy subject for a ,de ,profundis4 ,many years have elapsed since the prelate's demise2 and it is to be supposed that1 meanwhile1 the nectar of ,est has been rendered less potent and even more delectable in heavenly vineyards4 ,illustration3 ,,promenade ,,du ,,gourmand ,frontispiece of ,le ,manuel du ,gastronome ou ,nouvel ,almanach des ,gourmands 7#ahcj7 ,illustration ,,sundry ,,guides ,,to ,,good ,,cheer ,sir1 ,respect ,your ,dinner2 idolize it1 enjoy it properly4 ,you will be many hours in the week1 many weeks in the year1 and many years in your life the happier if you do4--,,thackeray4 ,a review of the dinner-table were incomplete without a reference to several writers1 other than those already cited1 who have wielded a more or less pronounced influence on gastronomy4 ,of such1 two ,english authors deserve especial mention1 each of whom has sought to prove that the art of the gastronomer is the art of being happy2 and that1 if blessed with a good appetite and sound digestion1 one may round off many a corner of life's miseries4 ,to ,dr4 ,william ,kitchener the merit of reforming ,english cookery as it existed during the early part of the past century is due to no inconsiderable degree4 ,the overladen table1 with its pompous decorations1 heavy viands1 and superabundance of wines1 was first severely censured in ,the ,cook's ,oracle1 and later in ,thomas ,walker's periodical1 ,the ,original1 since reprinted in book form4 ,the first edition of the ,oracle appeared in #ahag2 and1 like ,mrs4 ,glasse's ,art of ,cookery1 was subsequently much amended and enlarged4#dj ,an eccentric and would-be dietetic reformer1 the author was ridiculed at first1 as is often the case with those who advance new ideas or attempt to disturb existing conditions4 ,christopher ,north1 whose own ,pegasus was often inclined to strange curvets1 reviled him as he also did ,tennyson2 and ,hood addressed him in three mock-heroic odes4 ,but beneath his mannerisms and diatribes there remained much practical sense1 an extended culinary knowledge1 and no little shrewd observation4 ,it was the author's endeavour to improve plain cookery and to render food acceptable to the palate without being expensive to the purse--a precept altogether admirable4 ,the preface to the third edition emphasises1 very truly1 that among the manifold causes which concur to impair health and produce disease1 the most general is the improper quality of food1 this most frequently arising from the injudicious manner in which it is prepared4 ,yet it remains to be added that since the days of the ,oracle man has greatly improved in this respect1 even in ,england2 that despite the multiplicity of diseases1 hygiene is becoming far better understood by the masses2 and that for the various ills arising through the stomach1 chemistry and the doctors have devised numerous simple correctives which have proved of inestimable value4 ,the key-note of the ,oracle is contained in the sentence1 ,unless the stomach be in good humour1 every part of the machinery of life must vibrate with languor1--a sentiment with which all those who have touched twoscore will profoundly agree4 ,it is for elderly stomachs whose bloom may have been somewhat brushed off that the doctor's counsels will be found preminently deserving of attention4 ,to the epicure he likewise proved an excellent mentor2 to the dyspeptic1 a friend in need4 ,that he was strongly influenced by the writings of ,grimod de la ,reynire is readily perceptible1 though he states in the introduction that his work is a bona-fide register of practical facts1 and that he has not printed a recipe which has not been proved in his own kitchen4 ,before undertaking his task1 he had consulted all the treatises obtainable on the subject1 amounting to no less than two hundred and fifty volumes4 ,these1 he asserts1 vary very little from one another1 and any one who has occasion to refer to two or three of them will find the recipes almost always the same--equally unintelligible to those who are ignorant1 and useless to those who are acquainted with the business of the kitchen4 ,the numerous ,good ,housewife's ,closets1 ,ladies' ,companions1 and ,gentlewomen's ,cabinets1 in fact1 are virtually identical1 save for their titles and forewords4 ,with the recipes of the ,oracle the reader need not be as much concerned as with its spirit and its epicurean principles1 which reveal a strongly marked individuality1 and a comprehension far in advance of the time in ,great ,britain4 ,oracular and discursive1 the author ambles pleasantly along the road of ,conviviality1 scattering his maxims and dispensing his formulas1 while dipping into volume after volume to emphasise his text4 ,the ,oracle may be briefly described as a quaint medley of cookery1 hygienic precepts1 science1 gastronomy1 and domestic economy1 written by a bon vivant4 ,a long chapter is devoted to the subject of invitations to dinner1 wherein punctuality is strictly insisted upon--dining1 according to the writer1 being the only act of the day which cannot be put off with impunity for even five minutes4 ,he would have the cook the warden in chief1 as defined by ,mercier1 a physician who cures two mortal maladies1 ,hunger and ,thirst2 or a ,hominum servatorem--a preserver of mankind1 as designated by ,plautus4 ,a good dinner1 he maintains1 is one of the greatest enjoyments of human life2 but it should never be at the mercy of belated guests1--what will be agreeable to the stomach and restorative to the system at five o'clock will be uneatable and indigestible at a quarter past4 ,when he himself gave a dinner-party1 the guests were invited for five o'clock1 and at five minutes after the hour specified1 the street door was locked1 and the key1 by his order1 was set aside4 ,but it is perhaps in the chapter on advice to cooks1 and in his directions as to the minuti of boiling1 baking1 roasting1 and frying1 that he is most suggestive4 ,a characteristic farewell to the reader concludes the volume1 which even to-day may be consulted with profit--an observation that will also apply to many portions of its companion treatise1 ,the ,art of ,invigorating and ,prolonging ,life4 ,less pretentious1 and dealing more with the sthetic side of good living1 are the essays of the ,original1 by ,thomas ,walker1 barrister at law and magistrate1 which treat of the pleasures of the table under the titles1 ,the ,art of ,attaining ,high ,health and ,the ,art of ,dining4#da ,these critical dissertations originally appeared in #ahce in a weekly periodical of which he was the editor1 the series terminating with his death the subsequent year4 ,and if the influence of the ,almanach is readily discernible in the case of ,dr4 ,kitchener1 so in like manner one detects a flavour of the ,physiology in the genial pages of ,walker4 ,kitchener undoubtedly proves himself the more valiant trencherman1 while ,walker remains the more refined and philosophic host4 ,his golden rule was1 ,content the stomach and the stomach will content you4 ,a little irregularity in agreeable company he deems better than the best observance in solitude4 ,when dining alone is necessary1 however1 he adds that the mind should be disposed to cheerfulness by a previous interval of relaxation from whatever has seriously occupied the attention1 and by directing it to some agreeable object4 ,and so contentment ought to be an accompaniment to every meal4 ,punctuality becomes the more essential1 and the diner and the dinner should be ready at the same time4 ,concerning dining in comfort1 he holds that a chief maxim is to have what you want when you want it1 and not be obliged to wait for little additions to be supplied1 when what they belong to is half or entirely finished4 ,the plates should be brought in before the dish1 and the dish and its adjuncts appear simultaneously2 in other words1 the necessary condiments should always be at hand1 and the wines should stand ready to be poured out at the moment required1--the lesson of patience1 however desirable1 is not a virtue that should be inculcated at the dinner-table2 and prompt service must ever form a great desideratum of the perfect meal4 ,in dining1 more than anything else1 perhaps1 whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well1 though this were far from meaning that lavish expenditure need enter into the hospitable relations of host and guests4 ,forethought and careful personal attention1 it may be reiterated1 play a most important part at the board of ,good ,cheer2 and simple dishes unexceptionally prepared and served1 with the beverages that naturally accompany them at the proper temperature1 will garnish any table with a cloth of gold4 ,a good soup1 a small turbot1 a neck of venison1 ducklings with green peas1 or chicken with asparagus1 and an apricot tart1 the ,earl of ,dudley was accustomed to say1 is a dinner for an emperor4 ,there are those possibly who might prefer the much more simple menu of a ,french gourmet1--,a bottle of ,chambertin1 a ragot la ,sardanapale1 and a pretty lady causeur1 are the three best companions at table in ,france4 ,but it will be rendering greater justice to the author to permit him to speak for himself on some of the niceties connected with the art he has expounded so wisely and so well3 ,anybody can dine1 but few know how to dine so as to ensure the greatest quantity of health and enjoyment he agrees with ,dumas and ,fayot4 ,indeed1 many people contrive to destroy their health2 and as to enjoyment1 ,i shudder when ,i think how often ,i have been doomed to only a solemn mockery of it2 how often ,i have sat in durance stately1 to go through the ceremony of dinner1 the essence of which is to be without ceremony1 and how often in this land of liberty ,i have felt myself a slave4 ,there is in the art of dining a matter of special importance--,i mean attendance1 the real end of which is to do that for you which you cannot so well do for yourself4 ,unfortunately1 this end is generally lost sight of1 and the effect of attendance is to prevent you from doing that which you could do much better for yourself4 ,the cause of this perversion is to be found in the practice and example of the rich and ostentatious1 who constantly keep up a sort of war-establishment1 or establishment adapted to extraordinary instead of ordinary occasions1 and the consequence is that1 like all potentates who follow the same policy1 they never really taste the sweets of peace2 they are in a constant state of invasion by their own troops4 ,it is a rule at dinners not to allow you to do anything for yourself1 and ,i have never been able to understand how even salt1 except it be from some superstition1 has so long maintained its place4 ,i am rather a bold man at table and set form very much at defiance1 so that if a salad happens to be within my reach1 ,i make no scruple to take it to me2 but the moment ,i am espied1 it is nipped up from the most convenient into the most inconvenient position4 ,see a small party with a dish of fish at each end of the table1 and four silver covers standing unmeaningly at the sides1 whilst everything pertaining to the fish comes1 even with the best attendance1 provokingly lagging1 one thing after another1 so that contentment is out of the question2 and all this is done under pretence that it is the most convenient plan4 ,this is an utter fallacy4 ,the only convenient plan is to have everything actually upon the table that is wanted at the same time1 and nothing else2 as1 for example1 for a party of eight1 turbot and salmon1 with doubles of each of the adjuncts1 lobster-sauce1 cucumber1 young potatoes1 cayenne1 and ,chili vinegar1 and let the guests assist one another1 which with such an arrangement they could do with perfect ease4 ,this is undisturbed and visible comfort4 ,a system of simple attendance would induce a system of simple dinners1 which are the only dinners to be desired4444 ,with respect to wine1 it is often offered when not wanted2 and when wanted1 is perhaps not to be had till long waited for4 ,it is dreary to observe two guests1 glass in hand1 waiting the butler's leisure to take wine together1 and then perchance being helped in despair to what they did not ask for2 and it is still more dreary to be one of the two yourself4 ,how different when you can put your hand on a decanter the moment you want it6 ,perhaps the most distressing incident in a grand dinner the author continues is to be asked to take champagne1 and after much delay to see the butler extract the bottle from a cooler1 and hold it nearly parallel to the horizon in order to calculate how much he is to put into the first glass to leave any for the second4 ,to relieve him and yourself from the chilling difficulty1 the only alternative is to change your mind and prefer sherry1 which1 under the circumstances1 has rather an awkward effect4 ,these and an infinity of minor evils are constantly experienced amidst the greatest displays4 ,some good bread and cheese and a jug of ale comfortably set before me1 and heartily given1 are heaven and earth in comparison4444 ,the legitimate objects of dinner are to refresh the body1 to please the palate1 and to raise the social humour to the highest point2 but these objects1 so far from being studied1 in general are not even thought of1 and display and an adherence to fashion are their meagre substitutes4 ,to be niggardly with one's champagne we have already alluded to as despicable4 ,yet the amount of this wine that may be dispensed at dinner should depend on the cellar of the entertainer2 and where ,yquem or a grand ,deidesheimer1 ,lafite1 or ,la ,tche of well-succeeded years is also to figure1 it is wise for the host to let the fact be known1 and for him to curtail the flow of sparkling wine1 in order that proper justice may be rendered to its companions4 ,on this subject the ,original again proves itself a valuable signboard1 and its doctrine as to the conduct of the dinner forms a tenet worthy of all praise1--,if the master of a feast wishes his party to succeed1 he must know how to command and not let his guests run riot1 each according to his own wild fancy4 ,we cannot agree with the ,original and some others that it is correct to serve a sparkling wine1 to the exclusion of all others1 throughout an extended repast4 ,the palate and the eye weary of a single beverage1 however brilliant the vintage1 and yearn for a contrast in flavour and colour4 ,simplicity is constantly urged throughout ,the ,art of ,dining1 and again and again does the author insist upon the necessity of having whatever dish that may be served preceded by all its minor adjuncts1 and accompanied by all the proper vegetables quite hot1 so that it may be enjoyed entirely and at once4 ,the liquid accessories he would have placed upon the table in such a manner as to be as much as possible within the reach of each person2 and as ,mathew ,bramble1 in ,humphrey ,clinker1 talks1 in his delights of rural life1 of eating trout struggling from the stream1 so he would have his dishes served glowing or steaming from the kitchen1 a quality which lends a relish otherwise impossible4 ,there are two kinds of dinners he goes on to say--one simple1 consisting of a few dishes1 the other embracing a variety4 ,both kinds are good in their way1 and both deserve attention2 but for constancy ,i greatly prefer the simple style4444 ,in the first place1 it is necessary not to be afraid of not having enough1 and so to go into the other extreme and have a great deal too much1 as is almost invariably the practice4 ,it is also necessary not to be afraid of the table looking bare1 and so to crowd it with dishes not wanted1 whereby they become cold and sodden4 ',enough is as good as a feast' is a sound maxim1 as well in providing as in eating4 ,the having too much1 and setting dishes on the table merely for appearance1 are practices arising out of prejudices which1 if once broken through1 would be looked upon1 and deservedly1 as the height of vulgarity4 ,the excessive system is a great preventive of hospitality1 by adding to the expense and trouble of entertaining1 whilst it has no one advantage4 ,it is only pursued by the majority of people for fear of being unlike the rest of the world4 ,every gastronomer will endorse the sentiment that in proportion to the smallness of a dinner ought to be its excellence1 both as to the quality of materials and the cooking4 ,nor is there less truth in the complaint that it is an existing evil that everybody is prone to strive after the same dull style--the rule generally followed being to consider what the guests are accustomed to2 whereas it should be reversed1 and what they are not accustomed to should rather be set before them4 ,this stricture he applies to the serving of wines as well as of viands--we go on in the beaten track without profiting by the varieties which are to be found on every side4 ,to order dinner well he defines as a matter of invention and combination1 involving novelty1 simplicity1 and taste2 whereas in the generality of dinners there is no character but that of dull routine1 according to the season4 ,too little attention1 he complains1 is paid to the mode of dining according to the time of the year1 summer dinners being for the most part as heavy and as hot as those in winter1 with the consequence of being frequently very oppressive1 both in themselves and from their effect on the room4 ,in hot weather the chief thing to be aimed at is to produce a light and cool feeling1 both by the management of the room and the nature of the repast2 in winter1 warmth and substantial diet afford the most satisfaction4 ,it may be held with reason that some of the inconveniences pointed out with reference to service could be obviated by the service la ,russe--discarding its medley of dishes on the table1 and utilising its features of carving and serving4 ,but ,walker's great aim was that of a simple style of dinner-giving to a select few whose number he would limit to eight4 ,under these circumstances it is easy to understand how it were more appetising to dispense with any dishes in waiting which serve to cloy rather than to stimulate appetite1 and more advantageous to have the carving performed by the master himself4 ,at a men's dinner1 more especially1 where a saddle of mutton1 a haunch of venison1 or other roast forms the pice de rsistance1 and where1 therefore1 cut and come again is the motto of the hour1 the less formal style is certainly preferable1 and productive of the best results to the guests4 ,it is only on one occasion that we find him wavering in the dogmas he advances so emphatically and withal so aptly1 this incertitude occurring in connection with a dinner he had ordered at ,blackwall1 the menu of which may be appropriately transcribed as a practical illustration of his ideas on gastronomy3 ,the party will consist of seven men beside myself1 and every guest is asked for some reason--upon which good fellowship mainly depends2 for people brought together unconnectedly had1 in my opinion1 better be kept separate4 ,eight ,i hold to be the golden number1 never to be exceeded without weakening the efficacy of concentration4 ,the dinner is to consist of turtle1 followed by no other fish but whitebait1 which is to be followed by no other meat but grouse1 which are to be succeeded simply by apple-fritters and jelly2 pastry on such occasions being quite out of place4 ,with the turtle of course there will be punch1 with the whitebait champagne1 and with the grouse claret3 the two former ,i have ordered to be particularly well iced1 and they will all be placed in succession on the table1 so that we can help ourselves as we please4 ,i will permit no other wines1 unless1 perchance1 a bottle or two of port1 if particularly wanted1 as ,i hold variety of wines a great mistake4 ,with respect to the adjuncts1 ,i shall take care that there is cayenne1 with lemons cut in halves1 not in quarters1 within reach of every one for the turtle1 and that brown bread and butter in abundance is set upon the table for the whitebait4 ,the dinner will be followed by ices and a good dessert1 after which coffee and one glass of liqueur each1 and no more4 ,surely1 an excellent repast1 if the cooking was all that could have been desired1 as the author happily informs the reader was the case4 ,but in his comments on the dinner occurs this qualifying sentence1--,there was an opinion broached that some flounders1 water-zoutcheed1 between the turtle and whitebait would have been an improvement2 and1 for once1 the ,original proves vacillating1 and adds--,perhaps they would4 ,yet1 if we are to believe no less an authority than ,thackeray1 the dish under consideration is one for which room may always be appropriately found--a dish that1 when well prepared1 possesses ambrosial qualities4 ,he is discoursing of a flounder-souchy in the sketch entitled1 ,greenwich ,whitebait2 and one's mouth fairly waters as he reads it3 ,it has an almost angelic delicacy of flavour2 it is as fresh as the recollections of childhood--it wants a ,correggio's pencil to describe it with sufficient tenderness4 ,the recipe for a water-souchy is thus given by ,kitchener1 to be made with flounders1 whiting1 gudgeons1 or eels3 ,after cutting the fish in handsome pieces1 place them in a stewpan with as much water as will cover them1 with some parsley or parsley roots sliced1 an onion minced fine1 and a little pepper and salt1 to which sometimes scraped horseradish and a bay-leaf are added4 ,skim carefully when boiling1 and when the fish is sufficiently done send it up in a deep dish lined with bread sippets1 and some slices of bread and butter on a plate4 ,some cooks thicken the liquor the fish has been stewing in with flour and butter1 and flavour it with white wine1 lemon juice1 essence of anchovy1 and catsup1 and boil down two or three flounders to make a fish broth to boil the other fish in1 observing that the broth cannot be good unless the fish are boiled too much4 ,this does not sound as palatable as a sole au gratin or en matelote ,normande1 or even whitebait--that little means of obtaining a great deal of pleasure2 but one can scarcely forget ,thackeray's sentence1 even if his appreciation may have been heightened by the surroundings of the ,ship ,tavern and congenial companionship4 ,nearly ten years after ,walker's day we find ,thackeray also condemning many similar evils3 ,i would have he urges1 and the advice is still pertinent--a great deal more hospitality and less show4 ,everybody has the same dinner in ,london1 and the same soup1 and the same saddle of mutton1 boiled fowls and tongue1 entres1 champagne1 and so forth4 ,who does not know those made dishes with the universal sauce to each3 fricandeau1 sweetbreads1 damp dumpy cutlets1 etc41 seasoned with the compound of grease1 onions1 bad port wine1 cayenne pepper1 and curry-powder1 the poor wiry ,moselle and sparkling ,burgundy in the ice-coolers1 and the old story of white and brown soup1 turbot1 little smelts1 boiled turkey1 and saddle of mutton8444 ,what ,i would recommend with all my power is that dinners should be more simple1 more frequent1 and should contain fewer persons4 ,ten is the utmost number that a man of moderate means should ever invite to his table2 although in a great house managed by a great establishment the case may be different4 ,a man and a woman may look as if they were glad to see ten people2 but in a great dinner they abdicate their position as host and hostess1--are mere creatures in the hands of the sham butlers1 sham footmen1 and tall confectioners' emissaries who crowd the room1--and are guests at their own table1 where they are helped last1 and of which they occupy the top and bottom4 ,thackeray has written frequently on the pleasures of the table1 and his name may well figure in the annals of gastronomy as one of its shining lights1 if only for his delicious essays ,memorials of ,gormandising and ,on ,some ,dinners at ,paris1 to which in their entirety the reader is referred4 ,still later1 ,charles ,dickens keenly satirises the existing pomp and the lack of simplicity of the ,english table1 notably among the higher classes1 where he finds so much ,powder in waiting that it flavours the repast1 pulverous particles getting into the dishes1 and ,society's meats having a seasoning of first-rate footmen--society having everything it could want1 and could not want1 for dinner4 ,perhaps in no connection with the art of which the ,original treats is the advice more practical than in the remarks on variety1 with which the reference to ,walker may be terminated3 ,although ,i like1 as a rule1 to abstain from much variety at the same meal1 ,i think it both wholesome and agreeable to vary the food on different days1 both as to the materials and mode of dressing them4 ,the palate is better pleased and the digestion more active1 and the food1 ,i believe1 assimilates in a greater degree with the system4 ,the productions of the different seasons and of different climates point out to us unerringly that it is proper to vary our food2 and one good general rule ,i take to be1 to select those things which are most in season1 and to abandon them as soon as they begin to deteriorate in quality4 ,most people mistake the doctrine of variety in their mode of living2 they have great variety at the same meals1 and great sameness at different meals4 ,these agreeable varieties are never met with1 or even thought of1 in the formal routine of society1 though they contribute much1 when appropriately devised1 to the enjoyment of a party4 ,with respect to variety of vegetables1 ,i think the same rule applies as to other dishes4 ,i would not have many sorts on the same occasion1 but would study appropriateness and particular excellence4 ,one of the greatest luxuries1 to my mind1 in dining is to be able to command plenty of good vegetables1 well served up4 ,excellent potatoes1 smoking hot1 and accompanied by melted butter of the first quality1 would alone stamp merit on any dinner2 but they are as rare on state occasions1 so served1 as if they were of the cost of pearls4 ,it may be subjoined to the many pertinent observations respecting the duties of the entertainer1 that so far as it is within his power he should consider his guests individually1 weighing their personal likes and dislikes to such extent as may comport with the general welfare4 ,the first thing he should recognise as his imperative duty is to please4 ,yet while a surprise in the components of the dinner is to be desired1 the choice of dishes should nevertheless be made with reference to the taste of the majority1 in distinction to one's own preference or the predilections of the few4 ,with the stiff and formal dinner1 or with large dinner-parties1 fine discrimination is less practicable1 these functions being necessarily a burden to all concerned4 ,les dners fins se font en petits comits2 and1 equally1 in informal gatherings4 ,the deft hand and nice judgment may be thoroughly manifested only among intimate friends1 where the personality of the master may guide and direct1 free from the trammels of conventionality4 ,then that false etiquette which prescribes that the entertainer should never rise from the table may be waived2 and where he may enhance the pleasure of his friends by an impromptu visit to the wine-cellar in pursuit of some special vintage that the moment calls for1 or carry out a happy thought that the occasion may create1 it is his bounden duty to perform for himself what others may not perform as well1 or perform not at all4 ,with the absence of formality1 the wit may rise to the full height of his genius1 the humorist may shine1 and the accomplished and graceful liar draw a treble measure of delight from the font of a genial and exuberant fancy4 ,illustration3 ,,la ,,table ,frontispiece of the ,second ,canto of ,la ,conversation of the ,abb ,dlille1 #ahbb ,the ,art of ,dining also forms the title of a work by the scholarly essayist ,abraham ,hayward1 a rearrangement of two articles he had contributed to the ,quarterly ,review in #ahce and #ahcf4db ,by few writers has the subject been treated so invitingly4 ,there is no taint of grossness throughout his review2 and if it be true that next to partaking of a good dinner is to read about one1 we must thank him for the enjoyment he has contributed4 ,a distinguished scholar and epicure1 he had travelled widely1 and was equally at home in the ,french and ,english capitals4 ,all the celebrated restaurants1 chefs1 and matres-d'htel of ,paris were familiar to him1 while few have shown themselves as conversant with the literature of his theme4 ,he had1 moreover1 an entre into the most distinguished circles2 and1 last but not least1 possessed a marvellous memory to recall the people he had met1 and the dinners and festivities at which he had assisted--with the bon-mots1 repartees1 and anecdotes that the popping of corks without number had set free4 ,as a raconteur1 with an unlimited repertory of incidents concerning the notables who were prominent in society1 politics1 and gastronomy1 he is said to have been unsurpassed4 ,his subject1 he states1 has been discussed with the object of facilitating convivial enjoyment and promoting sociability2 and in these matters he will be found both a brilliant causeur and connoisseur4 ,passing by his anecdotal review of ,parisian cookery1 his reference to the simple expedients by which the success of a dinner may be insured will serve to show his resources1 and his grasp of the practical side of the topic3 ,we have seen ,painter's turtle prepare the way for a success which was crowned by a lark pudding4 ,we have seen a kidney dumpling perform wonders2 and a noble-looking shield of ,canterbury brawn from ,groves's diffuse a sensation of unmitigated delight4 ,one of ,morell's ,montanches hams1 or a woodcock pie from ,bavier's of ,boulogne1 would be a sure card2 but a home-made partridge pie would be more likely to come upon your company by surprise1 provided a beefsteak be put over as well as under the birds1 and the birds be placed with their breasts downwards in the dish4 ,game or wild fowl is never better than broiled2 and a boiled shoulder of mutton1 or boiled duck or pheasant1 might alone found a reputation4 ,a still more original notion was struck out by a party of eminent connoisseurs who entertained the ,right ,hon4 ,sir ,henry ,ellis at ,fricur's1 just before he started on his ,persian embassy4 ,they actually ordered a roasted turbot1 and were boasting loudly of the success of the invention when a friend of ours had the curiosity to ask ,m4 ,fricur in what manner he set about the dressing of the fish4 ',why1 sare1 you no tell2 we no roast him at all2 we put him in oven and bake him4' ,some there are who would seriously object to boiled mutton as opposed to roast1 and who assuredly would cry out in horror at a duck or game-bird boiled4 ,yet boiled mutton with capers is orthodox--like corned beef and cabbage1 or the ,rindfleisch with horseradish sauce1 which blends so well with the ,mnchner where one meets it in the middle of the day in ,germany4 ,a broiled teal1 wood-duck1 or butterball1 by all means2 but a roast canvasback1 redhead1 or mallard in preference always4 ,marrowbones are always popular the author continues4 ,so is a well-made devil or a broil4 ,when a picture of the ,dutch school1 representing a tradesman in a passion with his wife for bringing up an underdone leg of mutton1 was shown to the late ,lord ,hertford1 his lordship's first remark was1 ',what a fool that fellow is not to see that he may have a capital broil6' ,a genuine hure de sanglier1 or wild boar's head1 would elevate the plainest dinner into dignity4 ,the comparative merits of pies and puddings present a problem which it is no easy matter to decide4 ,on the whole1 we give the preference to puddings1 as affording more scope to the inventive genius of the cook4 ,a plum-pudding1 for instance1 our national dish1 is hardly ever boiled enough4 ,a green apricot tart is commonly considered the best tart that is made3 but a green apricot pudding is a much better thing4 ,a cherry dumpling is better than a cherry tart4 ,a beefsteak pudding1 again1 is better than the corresponding pie2 but oysters and mushrooms are essential to its success4 ,a mutton-chop pudding with oysters1 but without mushrooms1 is excellent4 ,never having tried the last-mentioned remove1 the writer is willing to trust to its excellence1 and to the general good taste of ,hayward4 ,but one has his doubts sometimes1 the proof of the pudding being in the eating2 and possibly a mutton-chop and oyster compound may be spoiling two things intrinsically good in themselves1 and the dish deserve to be placed in the same category with a boiled pheasant or a wild fowl4 ,moreover1 what may taste or appear excellent in one place does not always appear the same in another1 this holding true with many things besides dishes1 which may be affected by the climate1 the surroundings1 or one's mood at the time4 ,the topic of fish is particularly well treated by ,hayward4 ,on the subject of game1 he has this to say concerning a native marsh-bird of the sandpiper tribe1 highly prized for its eggs and flesh1 which has become even yet more rare with the draining of the ,english meres and fens3 ,ruffs and reeves are little known to the public at large1 though honourable mention is made of them by ,bewick4 ,the season for them is ,august and ,september4 ,they are found in fenny countries 7those from ,whittlesea ,meer in ,lincolnshire are best71 and must be taken alive and fattened on boiled wheat or bread and milk mixed with hemp-seed1 for about a fortnight1 taking good care never to put two males to feed together1 or they will fight l'outrance4 ,prince ,talleyrand was extremely fond of ruffs and reeves1 his regular allowance during the season being two a day3 they are dressed like woodcocks4 ,these birds are worth nothing in their wild state2 and the art of fattening them is traditionally said to have been discovered by the monks in ,yorkshire1 where they are still in high favour with the clerical profession1 as a current anecdote will show4 ,at a grand dinner at ,bishopthorpe 7in ,archbishop ,markham's time7 a dish of ruffs and reeves chanced to be placed immediately in front of a young divine who had come up to be examined for priest's orders1 and was considerately 7or1 as it turned out1 inconsiderately7 asked to dinner by his grace4 ,out of sheer modesty1 the clerical tyro confined himself exclusively to the dish before him1 and persevered in his indiscriminating attentions to it till one of the resident dignitaries 7all of whom were waiting only the proper moment to participate7 observed him1 and called the attention of the company by a loud exclamation of alarm4 ,but the warning came too late3 the ruffs and reeves had vanished to a bird1 and with them1 we are concerned to add1 all the candidate's hopes of ,yorkshire preferment are said to have vanished too4 ,a similar anecdote is current touching wheatears1 which1 in our opinion1 are a greater delicacy4 ,a ,scotch officer was dining with the late ,lord ,george ,lennox1 then commandant at ,portsmouth1 and was placed near a dish of wheatears1 which was rapidly disappearing under his repeated attacks4 ,lady ,louisa ,lennox tried to divert his attention to another dish4 ',na1 na1 my leddy1' was the reply1 'these wee birdies will do verra weel4' ,in vivid contrast to the works of ,walker and ,hayward is a volume entitled ,apician ,morsels 7,london1 #ahbi71 wherein the author1 who veils his identity under a facetious pseudonym1 has unblushingly garbled whole chapters from the old historians1 the ,almanach1 and various writers1 interspersed with coarse stories of gluttony4 ,it is to be deplored that ,la ,reynire cannot arise from his final resting-place to administer the castigation the author deserves4 ,from him it is refreshing to turn to the ,dipsychus of ,arthur ,hugh ,clough and read his animated poem1 ,le ,dner1 with its resonant refrain which1 strangely1 has been omitted from the later editions3 ,come along1 'tis the time1 ten or more minutes past1 ,and he who came first had to wait for the last4 ,the oysters ere this had been in and been out2 ,while ,i have been sitting and thinking about ,how pleasant it is to have money1 heigh-ho6 ,how pleasant it is to have money6 ,a clear soup with eggs2 voil tout2 of the fish ,the filets de sole are a moderate dish ,a la ,orly1 but you're for red mullet1 you say4 ,by the gods of good fare1 who can question to-day ,how pleasant it is1 etc4 ,after oysters1 ,sauterne2 then sherry2 champagne2 ,ere one bottle goes1 comes another again2 ,fly up1 thou bold cork1 to the ceiling above1 ,and tell to our ears in the sounds that we love ,how pleasant it is1 etc4 ,i've the simplest of tastes2 absurd it may be1 ,but ,i almost could dine on a poulet au riz1 ,fish and soup and omelette1 and that--but the deuce-- ,there were to be woodcocks1 and not charlotte russe6 ,so pleasant it is1 etc4 ,your ,chablis is acid1 away with the ,hock1 ,give me the pure juice of the purple ,mdoc2 ,st4 ,pray is exquisite2 but1 if you please1 ,some ,burgundy first1 before tasting the cheese4 ,so pleasant it is1 etc4 ,as for that1 pass the bottle1 and hang the expense-- ,i've seen it observed by a writer of sense ,that the labouring classes could scarce live a day ,if people like us didn't eat1 drink1 and pay4 ,so useful it is1 etc4 ,one ought to be grateful1 ,i quite apprehend1 ,having dinner and supper and plenty to spend4 ,and so1 suppose now1 while the things go away1 ,by way of a grace we all stand up and say1 ,how pleasant it is to have money1 heigh-ho6 ,how pleasant it is to have money6 ,to ,english guides1 so far as the metropolis is concerned1 should be added ,lieutenant-,colonel ,newnham-,davis' recent volume--a veritable ,murray to the table of ,london4#dc ,in this gossipy and sprightly manual one may dine by proxy in nearly all the leading restaurants as well as in many of the more ,bohemian resorts4 ,the appointments and surroundings of each are picturesquely set forth1 with the exact menu and price of each dinner1 together with an occasional recipe of some distinguished foreign master of the range1 or a dish for which a restaurant is especially renowned4 ,and while one may marvel at the writer's facile receptivity for an almost unvaried round of vintage champagnes1 and sympathise with him in the frequent iteration of certain dishes1 one must recognise1 nevertheless1 that if the dinners he discussed as an official representative of the ,pall ,mall ,gazette could be duplicated by the average diner1 ,london were not to be despised as a stamping-ground for the accomplished gastronomer4 ,the author does not hesitate to criticise1 though his exceptions are usually in the nature of a sauce piquante1 rather than a drastic condiment2 and it is evident in the majority of the feasts he passes under review--now with a boon companion1 and now with a pretty and well-gowned causeuse--that the special resources of the chef and matre-d'htel1 who are duly introduced to the reader1 have been brought into ,aladdin-like play for his special delectation4 ,the ,benedict will doubtless envy him his petits-dners with so varied a menu of charming women to stimulate his appetite and share his champagne and entremets de douceur2 the bachelor will recognise how a prolonged series of such dinners with supplementary flowers1 a loge at the theatre1 and a concluding supper swell the addition1 and render rising with the lark or any attention to business the following morning utterly beyond the compass of mortal power4 ,to assist in a repast with ,colonel ,davis1 however1 is to be assured of dining excellently in ,london1 with pleasant company and a double assurance of the truth of the aphorism1 that one can never grow old at table4 ,reference has already been made to numerous ,french minor writers on gastronomy2 among whom should not be omitted the name of the eminent ,dr4 ,rveill-,parise1 author of several works on hygiene1 whose dissertation on the oyster1 presented with all the charm that a brilliant style and profound erudition may impart1 is unrivalled in the language4#dd ,much has naturally been said1 both by ,english and by ,french writers1 concerning the restaurant4 ,the celebrated ,dr4 ,vron1 who was nearly always accustomed to dine at a restaurant in preference to dining at his own home1 gave these as his reasons3 ,in your own home the soup is on the table at a certain hour1 the roast is taken off the jack1 the dessert is spread out on the sideboard4 ,your servants1 in order to get more time over their meals1 hurry you up2 they do not serve you1 they gorge you4 ,at the restaurant1 on the contrary1 they are never in a hurry1 they let you wait1 and1 besides1 ,i always tell the waiters not to mind me2 that ,i like being kept a long while--that is one of the reasons why ,i come here4 ,another thing1 at the restaurant the door is opened at every moment and something happens4 ,a friend1 a chum1 or a mere acquaintance comes in2 one chats and laughs2 all this aids digestion4 ,a man ought not to make digestion a business apart4 ,he ought to dine and digest at the same time1 and nothing aids this dual function like good conversation4 ,perhaps the servant of ,madame de ,maintenon1 when the latter was still ,madame ,scarron1 was a greater philosopher than we suspect when he whispered to his mistress1 ',madame1 the roast has run short2 give them another story4' ,it was after a dinner in a ,fifth ,avenue restaurant1 at which terrapin and '#hi ,pol ,roger1 canvasback1 and '#gh ,haut-,bailly figured1 that while smoking his ,vuelta-,abajo--impressed with the excellence of the repast1 and smitten at the thought of his absent ones--the host observed to his companions1 ,heavens6 how ,i wish ,i could afford to treat my family to a dinner like this6 ,the stomach also has its conscience4 ,but ,thackeray has covered precisely such a case in the essay1 ,on some ,dinners at ,paris4 ,what is the use1 he asks1 of having your children1 who live on roast mutton in the nursery1 to sit down and take the best three-fourths of a perdreau truff with you8 ,what is the use of helping your wife1 who doesn't know the difference between sherry and ,madeira1 to a glass of priceless ,romane or sweetly odoriferous ,chteau ,lafite of '#db8 ,besides his sonnets ,le ,toast and ,barrire du ,maine1 ,charles ,monselet has written most entertainingly of the restaurant under the title1 ,les ,cabinets ,particuliers1 a sketch which figured in ,le ,double ,almanach ,gourmand of #ahff1 of which he was the editor for several years4 ,in this publication appeared ,albert ,glatigny's ,rue des ,poitevins1 one of several poems with the restaurant as their theme1 the stanzas being not unworthy of the melodious lyre of ,les ,vignes ,folles and ,les ,flches d',or3 ,c'est le vieux restaurant o vont les coliers ,qui n'ont point submergs les cols briss encore4 ,dans l'atmosphre chaude et franche on voit clore1 ,entre deux brocs de vin des refrains cavaliers4 ,les peintres1 les rimeurs1--leurs soucis oublis1-- ,y vont rire le soir d'un bon rire sonore1 ,et pour mon compte1 moi dans mon for1 je m'honore ,d'avoir allgrement grimp ses escaliers4 ,des escaliers du temps de la serrurerie1 ,larges1 la rampe en fer1 ouvrags1 bien dalls1 ,donnant sur un cour propre la rverie4 ,maison ,laveur6 hier1 c'tait l qu'attabls ,devant la soupe aux choux1 nous guettions1 mon ,lemoyne1 ,la petite servante aux rougeurs de pivoine4 ,the student of ,glatigny1 who must always admire the rhythm and melody of his ,muse1 will also remember his quaint sonnet published in ,gilles et ,pasquins1 entitled ,monselet devoured by the ,lobsters4 ,the works of ,henri ,murger are replete with epulary sketches of the old ,latin ,quarter of ,paris1 a district from which ,victor ,hugo has also drawn4 ,thodore de ,banville has likewise depicted many a picturesque restaurant scene in his airy ,odes ,funambulesques4 ,the lyrists1 too1 have not been unmindful of the poetry of the kitchen4 ,many visitors to ,paris will remember dining at ,bignon's1 and doubtless will equally recall the figures of the addition4 ,of this restaurant1 whose carte was devoid of prices1 it was said that a man who dined at the corner table for a period of years became a cosmopolite--in every capital of ,europe he would be recognised and fted2 for that matter1 he did not need to rise from his chair1 as all ,europe would pass in review before him4 ,a provincial dining there in ,april1 on perceiving melons on the card1 ordered one4 ,what6 he exclaimed1 after examining his bill1 thirty francs for a melon6 ,you are joking6 ,monsieur1 replied ,bignon1 if you can find me three or four at the same price1 ,i will buy them immediately4 ,fifteen francs for a peach8 inquired ,prince ,narischkin2 they must be very scarce4 ,it isn't the peaches that are scarce1 mon prince2 it is the ,narischkins4 ,monsieur ,bignon1 a red herring at two and a half francs6 ,it seems to me that is excessive4 ,but these prices are marked in your interest1 rejoined the restaurateur4 ,it is the barrier ,i have established between my clients and the vulgar4 ,why do you come here8 ,to be among yourselves1 to avoid embarrassing or compromising surroundings4 ,if ,i changed my prices1 the house would be invaded1 and you would all leave4 ,another patron who complained of a sauce was asked1 ,did you dine here last evening8 ,no1 he replied4 ,that is the trouble1 then2 you spoiled your taste in the other restaurant4 ,still another guest objected to the charges on his bill1 comparing it with an identical breakfast of a few days previous which amounted to eighteen and a half francs1 whereas the breakfast in question was charged twenty-one francs1 eighty centimes4 ,i will investigate the mistake1 said ,bignon1 who1 with the two bills1 proceeded to the desk1 returning shortly afterwards4 ,it is very true1 ,monsieur1 that a mistake was made in your favour last ,monday2 but ,i make no claim for restitution6 ,do the anecdotes and cook-books and treatises on eating and drinking savour of gluttony to some who eat only to live1 and who are lacking in the finesse of ,good ,cheer8 ,let all such consult a volume written by one of the gentler sex1 and hearken to her admirable definition of the ,tenth ,muse3 ,gluttony is ranked with the deadly sins2 it should be honoured among the cardinal virtues4 ,to-day women1 as a rule1 think all too little of the joys of eating2 they hold lightly the treasures that should prove invaluable4 ,they refrain to recognise that there is no less art in eating well than in painting well or writing well4 ,for the gourmande1 or glutton1 duty and amusement go hand in hand4 ,mind and body alike are satisfied4 ,the good of a pleasantly planned dinner outbalances the evil of daily trials and tribulations4 ,by artistic gluttony1 beauty is increased1 if not actually created4 ,rejoice in the knowledge that gluttony is the best cosmetic4 ,gross are they who see in eating and drinking nought but grossness4 ,gluttony is a vice only when it leads to stupid1 inartistic excess4#de ,illustration ,,of ,,sauces ,je la redoute1 cette sauce4 ,avec elle on mangerait toujours4 ,la lecture seule de sa recette donne faim4 ,,baron ,,brisse3 ,la ,petite ,cuisine4 ,the supreme triumph of the ,french cuisine consists in its sauces2 for nothing can so vary the routine of daily cookery as the different combinations of herbs and seasonings that may be utilised by a competent artist as an adjunct and a finish to a dish4 ,king's ,art of ,cookery has admirably versified the mission of the sauce3 ,the spirit of each dish and zest of all ,is what ingenious cooks the ,relish call2 ,for though the market sends in loads of food1 ,they all are tasteless till that makes them good4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,supper ,,in ,,the ,,eighteenth ,,century ,from the engraving after ,masquelier ,as without flattery there were no society1 so without sauces there were no gastronomy4 ,properly prepared1 with a thorough understanding of the hygienic nature of flavourings and their harmony with reference to the special viands they are to enhance1 a finely composed sauce is a digestive as well as a stimulus to the organs of taste4 ,no better illustration of the qualities of a perfect sauce occurs in the annals of the art than that of ,baron ,brisse1 which refers to sauce barnaise1 and ,la ,reynire's comment on anchovy sauce1--,lorsque cette sauce est bien traite1 elle ferait manger un lphant4 ,this is ,la ,reynire's recipe1 including its proper belongings1 as given in the sixth year of the ,almanach3 ,the anchovy figures as a stimulant and aperient in a great number of sauces1 whose presence imparts to them their principal virtues4 ,such are the sauces l',allemande1 l'anchois1 aux cpres1 etc42 we shall confine ourselves to the recipe of that which bears its name4 ,anchovy sauce is prepared by first carefully washing the anchovies in vinegar2 the bones are then removed1 the fish finely minced and placed in a stewpan with a clear coulis#df of veal and ham1 pepper1 salt1 nutmeg1 and fine spices2 after heating reduce to the proper consistence and give it the finishing touch4 ,this sauce serves for the roast4 ,the anchovy plays the principal rle in the sauce served with roast sirloin of beef and hare la broche4 ,it is made with their juices and a little bouillon1 anchovies coarsely chopped1 capers1 fine herbs1 tarragon1 pepper1 salt1 and vinegar4 ,with this sauce well prepared1 one might eat an elephant4 ,anchovy sauce is also employed in several sorts of gravies1 and one may say that it is not misplaced in any piquante sauce3 for it is in itself an excellent pigramme4 ,it follows from these remarks that the anchovy is an indispensable adjunct to good cheer4 ,its body figures admirably for the djeuner and with the hors-d'uvres1 and its spirit makes itself distinctly felt in all sauces that it permeates4 ,it imparts to them a savour which stimulates the appetite and agreeably captivates the palate4 ,in the middle ages the office of the saucier1 or master sauce-maker1 was invested with great importance4 ,a chief functionary in all grand houses1 under him were clerks1 varlets1 and youths termed galopins de saucerie1 who stood ever ready to do his bidding4 ,old woodcuts depict him presiding over his receptacles--as imposing in his dignity as the master-carver himself4 ,even then the adage held good that the sauce was often worth more than the fish4 ,indeed1 the sauce is the sonnet of the table1 as varied in its forms as the structure of the sonnet itself4 ,the ,gaul is its master1 and to him belongs the majority of its most pleasing tenses4 ,in the words of the distinguished ,marquis de ,cussy1 who maintained that a good cook can remove your gout as you would remove your gloves1--,point de sauce1 point de salut1 point de cuisine2 where would we be if the grand sauces1 the lesser ones1 and the special ones that have rendered the ,french school illustrious had not been discovered by men of the greatest genius8 ,the life labours of one alone would not have sufficed4 ,what a brilliant ladder to scale1 that which1 leaving the last round--the sauce pauvre homme--is lost in the clouds with the velout1 the grande and petite espagnole1 and the rductions6#dg ,sauce ,soubise1 sauce d',orlans1 sauce d',uxelles1 and sauce la ,rgence are all credited to great minds of the eighteenth century1 so prolific of new culinary discoveries4 ,through their piquant instrumentality we may in imagination summon the splendours of the ,regency and the reign of ,louis1 surnamed le ,bien-,aim1 with the brilliant toilets of its gay and pretty women--the high-heeled pointed shoe1 the powdered hair1 the rouge and beauty-spot1 the painted fan and walking-stick of fille1 duchesse1 and marquise that still look at us from the canvases of ,boucher and ,watteau4 ,we may see1 too1 the ,v-shaped satin corsage1 the expansive pannier1 the diaphanous robe dshabille1--flounced1 frilled1 flowered1 and furbelowed1--the embroidered petticoat and surge of lace and ribband1 as fair dame and plumed gallant repair to the suppers of the ,palais-,royal and the ,parc aux ,cerfs1 or sit down amid umbrageous glades to the revels of a fte champtre4 ,almost as many varieties of sauces exist as of soups4 ,but these may vary little or largely from their usually accepted names4 ,the cook will tell you1 if you are unacquainted with the fact yourself1 that by adding to simple melted butter a liberal amount of finely chopped parsley 7some ruin the relish with grated nutmeg1 a spice which should be used with great discretion71 salt and pepper1 and a dash of lemon1 you have what is termed a matre-d'htel sauce4 ,add to this finely minced garden-cress1 chervil1 and a little tarragon and burnet1 and you produce a different sauce under the same name4 ,thus plain onion sauce and sauce ,soubise1 in each of which the onion forms the dominant chord1 may differ equally1 and sauce piquante and sauce ,robert vary only in their titles and the additional mustard called for by the latter4 ,sauce poivrade1 in like manner1 is a sauce piquante with an increased supply of pepper and without the pickled cucumber4 ,among the most valuable of all sauces1 though employed only cold and served with cold viands1 is that which at once suggests what ,jules ,janin in an inadvertent moment termed the cardinal of the seas1 and that at a luncheon or a late supper possesses a merit distinctively its own4 ,this ,carme has dealt with at length in his treatise on cold sauces4 ,the origin of the word mayonnaise1 a blending supposed to be the invention of the ,marchal de ,richelieu1 has always remained in doubt4 ,its etymology has been attributed to ,mahon1 a town of southern ,france4 ,yet this supposed derivation is extremely dubious2 and as it was also known as bayonnaise1 it might be ascribed equally to ,bayonne1 famous for its hams1 its cheese1 and its chocolate1 and for having invented the bayonet4#dh ,it has been variously termed mahonaise1 bayonnaise1 mahonnoise1 magnonaise1 and mayonnaise4 ,but ,carme1 after minutely describing its preparation1 from the first drop of oil to its final silky1 white1 and unctuous cream1 denies its accepted derivation1 and pronounces it magnonaise1 from the verb manier--to stir2 as it may be prepared only through the continual stirring it undergoes1 which results in a marrowy1 velvety1 and very appetising sauce1 unique of its kind1 and bearing no resemblance to others that are obtained only through reductions of the range4 ,despite this ingenious explanation1 the word is still written mayonnaise2 and while lights shine brilliantly1 and champagne sparkles1 and the great crawfish1 sublimated into salad1 receives the encomiums of appreciative guests1 the famous chef of the ,empire is forgotten1 and the chapter of the ,cuisinier ,parisien exists only as a tale that is told4 ,it may be observed that a good sauce should be perfect in flavour1 colour1 smell1 and consistency4 ,it should be savoury1 flowing1 and well defined4 ,on the proper liaison1 a correct apportionment of the flavourings1 a knowledge of the range1 and a discriminating palate1 supplemented by long experience1 depends its triumph4 ,of course the bain-marie will be readily accessible when the sauce is obliged to wait1 the butter will be unexceptionable1 and the shallot especially will never be lacking when its virtues are in request4 ,as has been previously stated in the case of numerous other culinary preparations1 success depends more upon the practitioner than the formula4 ,it is as difficult1 therefore1 to describe the subtle chiaroscuro of a perfect sauce as to define the hues that mantle the petals of the rose ,beaut ,inconstante1 or the combined odours hived by a windless night of ,june4 ,comparatively few sauces may suffice for the modest household to supplement the espagnole1 or brown sauce1 and the velout1 or white sauce1 the foundations from which most others are compounded4 ,these two rudimentary sauces1 to be well made1 should not be greasy1 but contain just enough fat1 according to the authorities1 to present the velvety appearance of a full-blown damask rose4 ,carme devotes twenty-five pages to these mother sauces and their two slight modifications1 bchamel and allemande2 while ,francatelli points out that although great care and watchful attention are requisite in every branch of cookery1 the exercise of these qualities is most essential in the preparation of the grand stock sauces4 ,in the home kitchen these are naturally prepared in an infinitely more simple manner than according to the elaborate recipes of the great professors of the table4 ,the mistress of the household who would render herself trebly appreciated1 and who by ministering to man's palate may the more readily guide1 direct1 and control his character1 should train herself unerringly in the art of compounding appetising and wholesome sauces4 ,to be sure1 some of these manipulated by competent masculine hands--but how often slurred by some fatigued or indifferent sous-chef6--may be obtained at one's club or the better-class restaurants4 ,but here in many instances the wine-cellar is apt to be uncertain2 while frequent dining out is not to be compared with the sense of comfort of dining at home when the kitchen1 even though unpretentious1 is carefully administered1 the menu varied1 the wines perfect of their kind1 and where ,her ,gracious ,serenity's address may have conjured some dainty entre whose sauce1 sapid and velvety1 leaves nothing to be desired4 ,one might tire of this1 perchance1 with no change for a sixmonth1 as one might weary of constant sunshine or a too lavish profusion of tender epithets4 ,yet it is a desirable condition1 nevertheless1 to fall back upon2 and in the end far the safest for digestion4 ,and this despite ,balzac1 who well understood the cuisine no less than the ,comdie ,humaine1--that marriage must necessarily combat a monster who devours everything--daily routine2 or his other definition in the ,physiology of ,marriage1 a physiological study that was inspired by ,savarin's ,physiology of ,taste1--,pressurez le mariage1 il n'en sortira jamais rien que du plaisir pour les garons et de l'ennui pour les maris4 ,the wise woman will have many side-lights in her composition2 and in the kitchen her sauces will have many shadings4 ,let us toast her in a glass of sparkling ,st4 ,pray1 and acknowledge that without her there were no home cuisine and consequently no home life4 ,so closely does the art advocated by the late lamented ,mrs4 ,glasse touch upon the fundamental happiness of mankind2 and sauces which render it an art supreme still further accentuate the amenities4 ,it has been said that it is not obligatory for lovely arms and shoulders to be acquainted with rhetoric4 ,however this may obtain--and there are admirers both of shapely shoulders and of the graces of languages1 there can be no doubt that charming women who possess a taste for gastronomy which they can put to practical use upon occasion1 are an infinitely greater desideratum than whose energies may be centred strictly upon flounces or the study of metaphysics4 ,with the following sauces1 besides the simpler forms of espagnole and velout1 much may be accomplished at home3 cream bchamel1 sauce piquante1 sauce bordelaise1 matre-d'htel and barnaise1 hollandaise1 sauce an vin blanc1 sauce au beurre noir 7plain1 or with shallots and parsley added71 tomato sauce and its special form la ,richelieu1 and1 finally1 ,francatelli's sauce ,number #fe for mutton and dark-fleshed game4#di ,if1 apart from those enumerated1 madame be an artist in the fashioning of sauce tartare1 the mayonnaise and its shadings1 and a plain ,french salad dressing1 all will be lovely sailing4 ,what's sauce for the goose1 however1 is not necessarily sauce for the gander1 and vice versa4 ,women will prefer the cream bchamel1 mayonnaise1 and ,francatelli1 and the sterner sex will like them all4 ,it may not prove entirely without profit if to these be added sauce la ,schnberg1 which harmonises not only with halibut1 flounder1 sea-bass1 and sole1 but with chicken-breasts and white-fleshed game-birds as well1 when one desires a change from the usual modes of preparation3 ,sauce la ,schnberg4 ,make a roux of a tablespoon of butter and flour1 brown slightly1 add two shallots finely minced1 and a pint of chicken broth1 three tablespoons of tomato sauce1 a small bay-leaf1 two cloves1 some finely minced parsley1 a teaspoon of cognac1 and a little white wine4 ,season with salt and pepper1 and strain4 ,then add a half can of mushrooms1 slice and brown them in a little butter with a few dice of sweetbreads previously cooked1 and1 just before removing from the range1 the yolk of an egg and a half cup of cream4 ,the professional chef may possibly criticise it1--mesdames the ',compleat' ,housewives will discover in it a fragrant note of satisfaction4 ,will new sauces continue to be invented8 ,assuredly2 of culinary as well as other novelties there will always be an abundant supply1 however bizarre or lacking in excellence compared with the old4 ,but in new dishes it will be new combinations for the most part1 varying but little from the classics and those already known1 rather than any distinctly novel forms of superior merit1 such as have been recently evolved in floriculture1 for instance4 ,for the art of cookery is of ancient time1 while the evolution of the flower1 especially the floral queen1 the rose1 is comparatively new2 and where the one has still untold possibilities1 the other has well-nigh attained its full tide of savour and perfection1 at least in theory and understanding1 if not nearly so often in practice as were to be desired4 ,an extended disquisition1 redolent of truffles and odorous of the herb-garden1 might be devoted to the subject of sauces1 of which ,charles ,ranhofer in his recent manual1 ,the ,epicurean1 presents two hundred and forty-six4 ,but this were invading the practical domain of the cookery books1 and wandering too far from the lines of the subject under consideration--the history and province of ,gastronomy4 ,illustration ,,the ,,spoils ,,of ,,the ,,cover ,it is difficult to imagine a happier conjunction than the blending of the symbols when the arms of a sportsman are quartered with those of a cook4 ,the tints of the autumnal woods reflected in the plumage of mature and lusty game are types of rich experiences and genial sentiments which flit about the sportsman's board and linger at his hearth with as gracious a fitness as that which diffuses a faint blush through the russet of a well-cooked mallard's breast1 and with a zest equal to the relish which lurks within a woodcock's thigh4--,,john ,,aldergrove4 ,how that beechwood on a distant hillside1 its tall trees despoiled of their foliage1 and its skirts lighted with the clinging gold of the saplings1 stands out against a hoar ,november sky and the tablets of memory1 as one recollects an accommodating covey of grouse1 a successful right and left1 and the hoarse clamour of the crows whose conclave was disturbed by the salvo of the barrels6 ,of the wealth of aliments bestowed upon man by a bountiful ,providence for his sustenance and delectation1 none lends a greater grace or ministers more to the variety of the table than game4 ,the offspring of wild nature1 nursed upon its fruits1 its mast1 and its vegetation1 and exhaling the very essence of its most secluded recesses1 it sheds an added lustre even upon the most elaborate repast4 ,its comparative rarity1 together with that quality which may be best defined as distinction1 invests it with a heightened charm2 while to the sportsman it is indelibly associated with scenes the recollection of which causes the pulse to throb with a renewed joy in the sense of living4 ,its pursuit naturally leads to an abiding love for nature2 so that the bird in the thicket1 the wild fowl in the marsh1 and the hare in the covert become to the votary of sport more than mere adjuncts of gustatory delight4 ,who shall ever forget the first game-bird he has killed1 or the first pound trout he has captured with the fly8--the souvenir comes like a burst of autumnal radiance1 or the redolence of vernal flowers4 ,to what enchantments is not game the open-sesame2 and what halcyon visions does it not enshrine6 ,it is the emblem of plenteousness1 the symbol of maturity4 ,the gilded woods and ripened fruits1 the teeming fields and garnered sheaves1 the purple haze and mellow afterglow1 the harvest moon and the elixir of the frost--all the largesse of the year is typified in the least of the wild life that is included in the term game4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,spanish ,,pointer ,from the engraving by ,woollett1 after the painting by ,stubbs1 #agfh ,these woodcock1 for instance1 do they not at once bring to mind the beauties of their native haunts8--the devious alder tangle and jungle of wild grape where the dragon-fly flits above the murmurous stream1 and the cardinal-flower reflects itself within the glassy pool4 ,this ruffed grouse1 in turn1 how he recalls the pageant of the upland6 ,once more you scent the breath of the wildwood and drink the exhilarating draught of ,october4 ,again are you thrilled by the roar of strong pinions as the quarry rises in his strength1 to fall beneath the leaden charge and fold his wings in everlasting sleep4 ,or1 with the advent upon the board of that much-in-little1 the snipe1 the lonely marsh with its whispering flags and shifting cloud-shadow extends in imagination before you--where the killdeer calls1 and the bittern booms1 and the bird of mottled breast twists away with raucous cry to be lost in the grey horizon's marge4 ,thus game to the sportsman embodies an sthetic attribute unknown to the majority1 the very associations of sport in themselves conferring the keenest appreciation of the true instincts of gastronomy4 ,the range and the breech-loader are closely allied1 and the field and the table become merged in ties of mutual affinity4 ,nor may we overlook the great worth of game in the sick-room1 and as a ministering agent for the invalid and convalescent4 ,it possesses1 in addition1 a virtue equalled by scarcely any other form of food1 in calling forth the bouquet and flavour of wine--whether it be a white wine with the denizens of fresh and salt water that figure as game-fish1 or a grand growth of ,bordeaux or ,burgundy that is appropriately served with the furred and feathered tenants of ,sylva's court4 ,then if one has killed it himself1 or a friend whose skill has checked its flight has been the means of contributing its graces1 its quintessence becomes all the more adorable4 ,combining so many advantages1 it is to be deplored that the preservation of game in this country is not more carefully guarded1 and that the scarcity of many species is becoming more and more apparent4 ,the practice of spring shooting of snipe1 duck1 and shore-birds1 when on their migrations to their northern nesting-grounds1 cannot be too severely censured2 while the laxity in enforcing the laws and the dissimilarity of close seasons in different counties operates still further to cause the depletion of wild life4 ,the pot-hunter and the spaniel1 the trap and the gin1 are gradually exterminating the ruffed grouse2 the olden flocks of plover and wild pigeon have well-nigh vanished2 while snipe1 woodcock1 quail1 and duck are now as rare in many localities where they formerly abounded as the trout which once swarmed in the streams4 ,deer and its congeners1 it is true1 have received better protection of recent years1 the increasing numbers of deer at least attesting the wisdom of stringent laws stringently enforced4 ,it will therefore be readily evident that preservation and protection become a question of paramount importance which may no longer be loosely considered1 or soon the last grouse will have sounded his reveille1 and the whistle of the woodcock will remain only as a memory4 ,the remedy is easily prescribed1 and may be briefly summarised--legitimate shooting and fishing1 rigid enforcement of the laws with heavy penalties for the offender1 a single close season for the smaller species that are found in proximity1 abolishment of spring shooting1 and a rigorous surveillance of the covers4 ,by this means the table may possess one of its greatest luxuries in abundance1 and sport resume its former sphere as the greatest of recuperative and edifying recreations4 ,in its relation to the table1 the term game is held to include wild fowl as well as most furred and feathered spoils of the chase4 ,or1 defined more accurately in its connection with gastronomy1 it embraces everything belonging to the province of sport that is edible4 ,correctly speaking1 no species of wild fowl1 or species like the plover1 rail1 pigeon1 etc41 may be accounted game1 the quality of which consists in the subtle presence of scent1 instinctively recognised and followed by thoroughbred dogs1--a trait expressed by ,hollar's lines1 ,the ,feasant ,cocke the woods doth most frequent1 ,where ,spaniells spring and pearche him by the sent4 ,yet species foreign to the blue blood of flax and feather may1 nevertheless1 afford sport1 and prove acquisitions for the table4 ,the little spotted sandpiper1 accordingly1 whose musical peet1 weet1 weet rings along the brooksides and moist meadow-lands1 and even the squirrel if killed in cold weather1 are entitled to rank as table-game1 providing they be properly prepared4 ,it should not be supposed1 however1 that all individuals of a given species taste alike1 flavour being the result of two important conditions4 ,neither should it be presumed that a game-bird1 usually referred to as masculine1 is preferable for the larder in that gender2 the truth being that for culinary purposes the hen is generally preferable to the cock4 ,every sportsman will recall the difference in the taste of certain game-birds1 more especially snipe and woodcock--depending upon the nature of their feeding-grounds1 and upon the season4 ,like celery1 moreover1 most game requires a touch of the cold to develop its qualities4 ,the snipe that bores in sweet1 moist pastures1 and the woodcock shot on high grounds during late autumn1 would hardly be recognised as the same birds bagged under widely dissimilar conditions4 ,the bobolink of our summer fields is scarcely prized until as a migrant he has fattened on the rice-fields of the ,south1 to acquire an added bloom under the name of reed-bird or rice-bunting4 ,similarly1 the sheep of ,pr-,sal1 the succulent salt-marsh mutton of the ,brittany coasts1 renowned for its delicious flavour1 owe this quality largely to the herb absinthe which grows amid the herbage on which they browse4 ,the mutton of sheep fed on pastures where thyme abounds also acquires a particularly fine savour4 ,in like manner1 when the ruffed grouse through stress of weather has been compelled to feed on birch-buds1 or when he has dined on the berries and foliage of the wintergreen1 his aroma is strikingly accentuated1 becoming a veritable steam of rich-distilled perfumes4 ,the wild duck is an apposite example of the effect of food upon flavour2 and even a pheasant la ,sainte ,alliance must pale before a celery-fed canvasback or redhead bathed in its own carmine juices4 ,the redhead1 who dives down for the roots of the ,vallisneria which the lazier canvasback purloins1 is identical in quality with the latter when shot on the same feeding-grounds2 the only difference between the two when cooked consisting in the larger size of the canvasback4 ,equally1 the blackbird and starling1 when killed on the shocked corn-fields where the hazy sunlight broods1 or in autumn woods where they are garrulously discussing the date of their approaching flight and marvelling at the exquisite gradations of the maples' changing hues1 become possessed of a tenderness and succulence unknown to the glare and greenness of summer4 ,another much esteemed native table-bird is the sora1 crake1 or ,carolina rail1 who should not be confounded with the ,british and ,european corn-crake or land-rail whom ,michael ,drayton refers to as seldom coming but on rich man's spits1 and ,gilbert ,white represents as crying crex6 crex6 from the low1 wet bean-fields of ,christian ,malford and the meadows near ,paradise ,gardens at ,oxford4 ,the sora throngs the marshes of the ,atlantic coast in early autumn1 congregating in the greatest quantities south of the ,rappahannock1 where he is slaughtered by wholesale with comparatively little diminution of his ranks4 ,he is a small dark-fleshed bird of great delicacy when broiled1 and by many is prized more highly than the toothsome reed-bird or the golden plover4 ,though resembling the corn-crake in many ways1 his nearest relative abroad is the spotted crake4 ,the great-breasted or king-rail of the fresh-water marshes is likewise much esteemed4 ,in flavour the sora is not unlike the wild duck2 or1 if the comparison may be made1 a cross between the qualities of a teal and a snipe--deriving his special richness from the seeds of ,zizania aquatica1 or tall1 wild reed of the tidewater shores4 ,the juicy little bobolink whose rippling scherzo1 flung over the fallows and buttercups of ,june1 is basely forgotten by the epicure in the fall1 may be crunched in a mouthful2 the sora is thrice his size1 and1 though seldom as fat1 is richer in the quality of his ruddy flesh4 ,it were a parlous task to attempt to describe from memory the respective merits of the reed-bird1 the famed ,european ortolan1 and the ,english wheatear1 fieldfare1 and mistletoe-thrush4 ,one stands helpless under such a contretemps1 and must necessarily await the advent and the edict of another ,la ,reynire4 ,the fig-pecker of southern ,europe is more easily passed upon1 and readily ranks first among small table-birds4 ,the tall yellowshank or stone-snipe1 with his slim gilded stilts and snow-white breast1 familiar to the gunner as a migrant and a frequent companion of the upland-plover1 would be esteemed by the sportsman-epicure if only for the recollection of his splendid spread of wing1 his graceful circlings1 his loud whistling notes1 and his lovely silvery plumage4 ,although considered less desirable than the snipe and woodcock1 the upland- or grass-plover--in reality a sandpiper--should by no means be overlooked4 ,one intuitively thanks him for the scenes he graciously leads to--the placid ,september day steeped in sunshine1 the tender green of sprouting wheat-fields1 the pageant of asters1 and the billowy roll of mushroom-studded pastures4 ,one hears anew his weird1 plaintive cry in the arc overhead--like the bleat of distant folds--audible long ere the grey forms are discernible1 as the sportsman imitates their notes1 and the wavering flock1 with a flutter of white wings1 drops down to the sward below4 ,besides the salad which should accompany all species of game1 the upland-plover1 therefore1 should be garnished with his accessory1 the field-mushroom1 whose snowy pileus and pink gills his dainty tread is constantly brushing1 but never ruffling1 amid the old pastures1 stump-lots1 and sheep-walks he frequents4 ,but the graceful ,bartramian sandpiper has other aliases than those of upland-1 field-1 and grass-plover4 ,besides his common appellation of tattler1 he is known in ,louisiana as the pepperpot1 and more generally as the papabotte--a local name1 from the ,creole ,french1 significant of all that is most prized in edible game4 ,arriving from the vast prairies of ,mexico and ,texas1 where they spend the winter1 says ,audubon1 the dry upland plains of ,louisiana called ,opellousas and ,attacapas are amply peopled with this species in early spring as well as in autumn4 ,about ,new ,orleans they appear in great bands in spring1 and are met with on the open plains and large grassy savannahs4 ,upon the restaurant cards of ,new ,orleans and other ,southern cities he figures much as the truffle does in ,france--his particular food imparting to his flesh a peculiar flavour and certain peculiar virtues4 ,the favourite mode of preparing him by the ,new ,orleans clubs is to roast him and serve him slightly underdone with the trail finely minced on toast4 ,his appearance is nearly simultaneous with that of a blister-beetle known as the ,spanish fly--one of the extremely numerous members of the genus ,coleoptera and family ,cantharidid1 of which a large portion are common to the haunts of the bird4 ,this destructive insect comes in myriads to prey upon growing vegetation1 but the papabotte consumes vast numbers until his disappearance during latter ,september1 as the upland-plover does of grasshoppers and crickets in the ,north--waxing so fat upon his favourite diet that when he falls before the gunner he often bursts open like an overripe fruit4 ,he is known chiefly as the plover in ,texas1 where1 in addition to a diet of grasshoppers1 etc41 he subsists largely on the striped blister-beetle 7,lytta vitatta71 and doubtless also on the black blister-beetle 7,lytta atrata71 which is likewise quite common to ,texas during certain years4 ,it is probable that both these species of cantharides form a large portion of his diet in ,louisiana as well4 ,a wary bird when approached on foot1 and not lying to the dog1 he is frequently hunted on horseback1 or by employing a horse and wagon1 when he is easily brought to bag4 ,the flesh of the cantharide-fed bird is always extremely heating in its effects2 and1 indeed1 owing to the absorption of cantharidin1 the active principle of the insect1 it not unfrequently acts as a violent irritant and poison4 ,yet the papabotte is eagerly sought for1 and by the epicure his flesh is more highly esteemed than that of the woodcock1 snipe1 or sora4#ej ,notable among indigenous game-birds are the ruffed grouse1 the quail1 the pinnated grouse1 and the woodcock1 together with numerous other varieties of the family ,tetraonid1 variously classed by the ornithologists1 that are less familiar or less widely distributed1 and are locally known under various names4 ,with these may be included not a few species that do not figure properly as game1 such as the wild turkey1 canvasback duck1 etc4 ,all things considered1 the ruffed grouse--the partridge of the ,north and pheasant of the ,south--is entitled to rank first among feathered game4 ,nothing swifter or more valiant in plumage tests the sportsman's nerve and skill4 ,so far as sport is concerned1 he may be placed1 from his alertness1 swiftness1 and the trying nature of his usual habitat1 on a par with the trout of the clear ,hampshire chalk-streams1 whose fastidiousness in rising to the artificial fly so taxes the angler's resources on the placid reaches of the ,itchen1 the ,anton1 and the ,test4 ,he is preminently the bird of the woodlands1 supreme in his sturdiness and his strength4 ,his roll-call awakens the wind-flower1 and his thunderous whir6 fans the ,september air into freshness4 ,he blends with the buffs of the beech and russets of the oak1 and is eloquent with the lustihood of the ripened year4 ,and how artfully he assimilates with the shadows and thrusts a tree-trunk between himself and the gunner6 ,see him as he springs from the tangle of the saplings1 a shaft of mottled splendour where the sunlight strikes his sides2 and the hoarse boom of the double-barrel fails to check his tumultuous flight4 ,behold him in the spring while he struts upon his chosen log with extended tufts and expanded feathers1 beating the air with his wings1 and sounding his reverberating peal of defiance and of love4 ,consider him amid the rigours of the frost1 loyal to his native haunts1 true to the instincts of his race1 when most of his companions have deserted him for more congenial climes4 ,observe him once more when the deadly volley has stopped his career1 and he falls upon the russet carpet1 in glossy black ruff1 and plumage in blended hues of olive1 brown1 black1 and grey--the noblest game-bird that treads the forest aisles6 ,illustration3 ,,partridge ,,shooting1 ,i4 ,,la ,,chasse ,,aux ,,perdrix ,from the coloured print after ,howitt1 #ahjg ,and if no other member of his family requires more address in bringing to bag1 none may surpass1 if equal1 him in his wild woodland flavour4 ,his back is the very incarnation of poignancy1 while no bird that flies can vie with the whiteness and plumpness of his breast4 ,this is saying nothing against the prairie-chicken in his younger stage1 or the eastern quail1 or even the two long-billed beauties beloved by the sportsman and the epicure4 ,but the assertion may be safely ventured that he will lend himself to more varieties of wine in evolving their sve than any other representative of the haunts of ,pan4 ,bonasa umbellus6 may birch-bud and beech-nut1 wintergreen and partridge-vine1 never fail thee in snow and storm6 ,with the speckled trout1 the rainbow-trout1 the sunapee-trout or saibling1 the black-bass and muscalonge should also be included among distinctly native game-fish4 ,the brown trout of ,europe has recently been introduced into many ,american waters1 as the ,mongolian pheasant has been introduced in the fields4 ,but the ,american speckled trout1 who is in reality a char and smaller than the ,european trout1 is higher flavoured1 and1 like the saibling and the rainbow-trout of the ,rockies1 is a far more beautiful fish4 ,the brown trout thrives under warmer conditions than the speckled trout1 and consequently is an acquisition4 ,but as he attains a much larger size1 it is unwise to place him in waters tenanted by the native species1 as the larger fish has already proved very destructive to the smaller fry of the ,salvelinus fontinalis4 ,it is superfluous to state that fish cannot be too fresh1 in which respect it is the reverse of game4 ,the quail1 and especially the ruffed grouse1 should be hung long enough to develop their flavour4 ,eaten too soon1 they do not represent game1 as their quality is not attained2 hung too long1 on the other hand1 they are not fit for the table4 ,to cook quite fresh game is to deride its mission on earth4 ,a happy medium should be observed in the ease of maturing most species4 ,the duck1 woodcock1 and snipe should only be mellowed or kept under favourable conditions for a short period4 ,they are like a peach1 which is best when recently plucked1 as opposed to a pear1 which requires to be slowly ripened after gathering4 ,it is possible to eat a high grouse or pheasant1 if not too gamy2 but a duck past the meridian of maturity is well-nigh impossible1 as is also a shore-bird or either of the long-bills4 ,there is no occasion to bury the wild boar1 as is sometimes done in ,europe for the purpose of mellowing him2 inasmuch as he does not exist in ,america1 and the razorback hog of the ,south1 however well he may have feasted on beech-mast1 cannot take his place4 ,but in place of the wild boar we have the lordly moose1 elk1 and caribou1 and the picturesque ,rocky ,mountain sheep and goat1 which1 if not all desirable for the larder1 nevertheless afford magnificent sport2 while by many a young caribou or elk1 as also a mountain sheep1 is considered among the graces of edible furred game4 ,the relative time of keeping all game to savour it under the best conditions will depend upon the weather4 ,it is always better when hung in the fur or feathers1 and where it may have a circulation of air1 than when confined in a close receptacle4 ,when frozen it loses in flavour and succulence4 ,dark-fleshed birds1 with few exceptions1 are best rather underdone--rosy1 but not raw4 ,white-fleshed birds should be done sufficiently1 but not cooked to the extent of drying their juices4 ,the cooking of mutton will serve as a type for the one1 and veal for the other4 ,most game-birds are best plainly roasted or broiled1 although for variety they may be served in various appetising ways4 ,in roasting the smaller species1 the vine-leaf and a strip of larding-pork should not be overlooked2 and where these or well-buttered paper are not employed1 as in the case of over-fat birds1 the basting-spoon should be kept in constant agitation4 ,larding lightly often improves a white-fleshed bird where he has not been enveloped in pork4 ,especially1 let game be zealously watched in the cooking2 let its appropriate wine be carefully considered2 and let no delay occur in its flight through the butler's pantry to the dining-room4 ,its garnishing also should be studied1 that it may flatter the eye as well as the palate2 and1 for the most part1 with feathered game watercress or filets of lemon should lend their colour and their zest4 ,game-birds should always be hung by the head1 not for the purpose of sending the juices to the legs1 as is fantastically supposed by some1 but to allow the lower viscera and their contents an approach to the natural exit4 ,were they hung by the feet1 the visceral machinery--softening more and more1 as it always does--would of course press upwards to their bodies and probably taint them4 ,a game-bird should never be drawn until that office is performed by the cook4 ,hares are usually hung by their hind legs1 it is true2 but hares1 if hung for any time1 are invariably paunched1 so that no lower viscera remain in them4 ,fish1 it has been pointed out1 should never be covered up1 or it will suffer fatally from the condensation of the steam4 ,it may be noted that for an all-round sauce for broiled fish1 none wears better than a matre-d'htel and1 occasionally1 its modification1 a sauce au beurre noir4 ,a well-made bread-sauce1 an accessory which we owe to ,england1 always accords with quail and grouse1 and is not amiss with prairie-chicken1 even if they are already well moistened with the sauce of cooking them with pork and basting with bouillon4 ,francatelli's delicious sauce1 ,number #fe1 the recipe for which has been presented in a previous chapter1 will need no recommendation as an adjunct for venison and mutton where it has once been enjoyed4 ,apple-sauce is indispensable with the domestic duck1 and boiled onions should not be omitted by way of a vegetable accompaniment4 ,canard saignant is reprehensible1 and equally so is the overdone bird4 ,a wildling should be fresh and sweet1 and passed through the kitchen not once1 but thrice2 the domestic fowl will1 of course1 be allowed more time on the range to plume himself for the table4 ,the celery-fed bird 7,o avis jucundissima67 calls for no other sauce than his own1 but with some species a stuffing of olives and an olive sauce are excellent additions4 ,then1 if your bins of ttes de cuve of the ,vosne be not lacking1 you may hear your whistler simply praying to be engulfed in ,richebourg or ,romane4 ,the wild turkey1 the spruce-partridge1 and the cottontail will prove more desirable subjects for the seasonings and provocative sauces of the ,french cookery books than their more princely companions4 ,the wild turkey1 notably1 despite his splendid wattles and emerald plumage1 it must be conceded cannot compare with the tamer fowl in edible qualities2 and it were well1 where a stately gobbler has been sent as the result of the prowess of a friend1 to dispense at once with his drumsticks1 which1 owing to his roving habits and wide ranging1 have become tougher than the ham-strings of a patriarchal sage-cock4 ,he should be treated as a somewhat plain-looking woman1 who has passed the hey-day of her charms1 pranks and accoutres herself for a ball1 and the aid of art be summoned to amplify his good points and gloze over any of his deficiencies4 ,his resonant voice of course will be stilled by the cooking1 but his voluptuous breast will remain4 ,thus by neatly cutting across the lower part of the back and thighs1 removing his shapely legs1 and then inverting him1 he will have been formed into a boat-like receptacle for an artistic chestnut stuffing4 ,one may then proceed to lard him2 and1 while roasting1 baste him thoroughly1 send him to the table with some oak-leaves en couronne1 a currant-jelly sauce in a saucire1 and1 with the assistance of a perfumed and generous red wine1 make the most of his seductive contours4 ,all this may be contrary to the tenets of ,savarin1 who pronounces the wild turkey superior to the tame4 ,but it must be remembered that he is speaking of a wild turkey that he had the good fortune to kill by his own hand while in ,connecticut--a fact which1 with the appetite engendered by his shooting-outings1 will readily account for the preference he expresses for the wild form of this noble member of the ,phasianid4 ,at a certain season1 however1 when he has fattened on pecan-nuts1 the flesh of the wild turkey is of excellent flavour2 and to this circumstance ,audubon's eulogy is probably due3 ,the ruffed grouse1 in my humble opinion1 far surpasses as an article of food every other land bird which we have in the ,united ,states1 except the wild turkey when in good condition4 ,furred game is more amenable to variety in preparation than feathered2 and while marind venison and a civet of hare may be delicious1 the fewer culinary frills on a grouse1 woodcock1 or snipe the better4 ,a salmis1 nevertheless1 has its virtues2 and as for the lord of the woodlands1 when tired of him au naturel1 if that be possible1 he may be invested with a new glory as partridge aux choux1 if one but follow the counsels of ,baron ,brisse1 whose prescript is well worth transcribing and comes within the compass of all3 ,perdrix aux choux4 ,all housewives do not succeed with perdrix aux choux4 ,this is the way to set about it in order to be complimented4 ,pluck1 draw1 singe1 truss1 and tie up the partridges4 ,blanch some cabbages1 cut in quarters from which the cores have been removed2 put them to soak in fresh water1 dry them and press out all the water4 ,blanch also a small piece of lean pork from the breast4 ,make a light roux in a large stewpan1 put the cabbages in with the small pieces of pork1 some uncooked sausages1 some carrots1 an onion piqud with two cloves1 a bouquet-garni1 salt and pepper4 ,plunge the partridges in the centre of the cabbages1 cover with broth and cook gently in a closed stewpan4 ,when done1 remove the birds1 the pork and sausages1 dry off the juice of the cooking1 then drain the cabbages--that is1 turn them in a stewpan1 on a quick fire1 until they are free from liquid4 ,untruss and dress the partridges on a platter1 on a bed of cabbages1 with the backs underneath1 cut the pork and sausages in pieces1 slice the carrots1 and garnish with all4 ,partridge aux choux is accompanied with a sauce made from a roux moistened with broth and added to the juice of the cooking4#ea ,the touch of the baron in everything relating to the all-important office of eating is invariably delicate and sure4 ,nevertheless1 if one may venture to suggest an improvement1 not in the mode of cooking1 wherein he is impeccable1 but in the shading of the plat1 it would be to remove the birds after they have simmered sufficiently in the cabbage1 glaze them with melted butter1 and place them for an instant in the oven1 with a very lively fire1 in order to brighten their otherwise somewhat blanched complexion4 ,sauerkraut1 instead of cabbage1 is frequently employed by the ,french1 but with far less happy results4 ,with care in its employment1 the ,brussels sprout1 after it has felt the finger of the frost1 might be used as a medium with no regrets unless on the score of a slight indigestion4 ,were one an ostrich1 nothing could serve as a more delicious or colourful vehicle than the ,german roth-,kohl4 ,of sausages1 the highly spiced little ,wienerwurst is best adapted to the dish4 ,a game-pie composed of numerous spoils of field and cover--seasoned and stuffed with herbs1 shallots1 bay-leaf1 mushrooms1 truffles1 chestnuts1 sweetbreads1 and various vegetables1 and cooked in broth and red wine1 with a fingerful of brandy and another or two of ,madeira--is a triumph of the chef when well executed4 ,but to indulge in this requires a vigorous digestion and toes impervious to arthriticism4 ,in its relation to wine1 the maturity of game should be taken into consideration2 as1 for example1 with dark-fleshed birds that are comparatively fresh1 a fine ,bordeaux2 with those that are more matured1 and particularly duck1 the warmer and more generous red vintages of the ,cte d',or and the ,cte du ,rhne4 ,for a well-hung prairie-chicken1 a red wine will naturally be selected2 for a partridge that inclines to freshness1 either champagne or ,bordeaux1 ,burgundy or a ,deidesheimer ,auslese may serve for a bath with equally good results4 ,but game is too often undeservedly treated and served at the end of a dinner of numerous courses1 when1 whatever its merit or that of its accompanying wine1 the palate and appetite are in scant mood to appreciate it4 ,with the advent of the autumnal equinox the calendar of seasonable sport begins4 ,there is then an exhilaration in the air that irresistibly invites to out-of-door exercise and an exploration of the covers4 ,game is then matured1 fleet of foot and strong of wing2 and at no other period do upland and vale present such varied attractions4 ,september is the true adagio of sport1 ,october and ,november the allegro1 and ,december the diminuendo4 ,for pure sylvan beauty1 no month may compare with ,october1 when the torch of autumn kindles the woodlands into living flame1 although the dreamy ,indian summer possesses a charm that is matched only by ,may when she rolls away the resurrection-stone4 ,then when the purple landscape lies hushed in slumber1 one may recall anew the forgotten ode of an unknown bard1 in whose haunting cadences are subtly expressed all the rest and peace and rhythm1 all the tone1 the tenderness1 and benediction1 of the latter-year3 ,i4 ,nothing stirs the stillness save a leaf that slowly rustles down1 ,dim1 through sunny mists the trees uplift their branches bare and brown2 ,winds are hushed1 and skies are soft and grey1 and grassy slopes are sere1-- ,calm and sweet and still1 ah6 sure is this the twilight of the year4 ,,ii4 ,there is this in these ,november days1 the message that is sent-- ,peace undying1 rest1 and sweet and measureless content2 ,life's wild fever over1 sleep's soft mood enchanting1 such as fills ,golden dreams of gods immortal1 sits enthroned upon these hills4 ,,iii4 ,offered in day's golden chalice1 sweet and dreamy peace is mine2 ,all's forgotten1 lying here and watching tides of glorious light divine ,slowly sweep along the hills1 and vaguely thrilling to their sway-- ,all that love hath lost or wrong hath won1 ,o calm and royal day6 ,days there are in late ,november and ,december1 too1 when the beauties of leafless vegetation are scarcely surpassed by the pomp of ,october or the glamour of the ,red ,man's summer2 when tender tones of russet and grey bask over bare fields and fallows1 and wanton amid mysterious woods2 and strange1 ripe hues1 rich as those of old tapestries1 smoulder and gleam the livelong day from the southern horizon's verge4 ,there is a charm as well in the clear crispness of a winter's day1 when the woods are cushioned with snow on which the sylvan denizens have left their imprint1 and when one may penetrate into the swamp's most secluded labyrinths1 where the hare and fox have gone before4 ,but ,october and ,november for the delights of the chase and glories of the countryside6 ,the gay medley of summer has passed1 and in its place are the aster and goldenrod hosts1 the bright berries of bittersweet and black alder1 the fragrant life-everlasting and lingering yarrow4 ,ceased is the drone of insect choirs1 and birds are silent save for the chattering of congregating flocks and call-notes of passing migrants4 ,but through the rustle of ,autumn amid her falling leaves the quail cries aloud from the coppice1 ,i am here6 the squirrel barks1 and far within the woodland's depths the drum of the grouse proclaims the reign of sport4 ,illustration3 ,,partridge ,,shooting--,,september ,from the coloured engraving by ,reeve1 after the painting by ,r4 ,b4 ,davis1 #ahcf ,what more appropriate at this most alluring moment1 when everything incites to an outing1 than a hunting-party in the woods8--especially as one remembers that both the fall woodcock and time are on the wing4 ,to a shooting-jaunt1 therefore1 with a well-prepared luncheon in the hampers1 the reader is invited2 it being understood that this is to include1 as nearly as possible1 an equal number of both sexes4 ,we will suppose a day in mid-,october1 after the frost has vivified the air1 when the tints of vegetation vie with those of the noblest pressings of the vine1 and the matured plumage of a game-bird in the cover far exceeds the liveliest gilding the chef may bestow upon him on the table4 ,here1 still more than at the dinner-table1 success will depend largely upon careful forethought2 for even should the birds be unusually wary1 and there be not enough game in the pockets to weigh very heavy1 the excursion will prove none the less enjoyable1 provided the party and the lunch be well composed4 ,and whether the goal be within driving distance1 or accessible only by train1 the details will have been planned by one who is thoroughly conversant with the region to be visited1 and the refection have been looked after by hands that never fail4 ,let the luncheon never be neglected4 ,if the sportsman's efforts turn to good account1 appetite is a certain sequence2 if not1 an appetising spread will help to bridge over any chagrin at lapses of marksmanship1 or the drawing of sparsely populated covers4 ,thus1 under the most divergent circumstances1 a choicely filled hamper answers an admirable purpose4 ,granted that one may shoot better during the first hour after a meagre repast1 yet should an outing possess other features than mere weight and numbers4 ,for hath not wise ,montaigne declared1 ,he who hath no jouissance but in enjoying2 who shoots not but to hit the marke2 who loves not hunting but for the prey2 it belongs not to him to intermeddle with our schoole4 ,the start will necessarily follow a reasonably early breakfast2 and ere arriving at the final destination of the morning1 various covers may be explored by the devotees of the gun4 ,and while the music of the barrels rings through the painted woods1 and the russet bird of ,october tops the ranks of the aspens1 there will be sufficient novelty in the situation and in the attractions of their own company1 no doubt1 to prevent any ennui on the part of those in waiting4 ,meantime1 while the bag of woodcock mounts1 or an old cock grouse is neatly stopped in his rush through the thicket1 the manifold beauties which the autumnal season weaves will naturally arrest one's attention2 for he is callous indeed to all sense of beauty who even in the midst of exciting sport can fail to note the harmonies of the ,october countryside4 ,to the true nature-lover1 the shooting will be more of an excuse than the principal reason for the excursion1 of which the surroundings and the joys of social companionship should constitute the greater entertainment4 ,and thus ere leaving the scene of the last hour's sport1 one involuntarily pauses at the skirts of the wood for a final survey1--to mark the gorgeous ambers of the beech1 the garnets of the shad-blow and splendours of the dogwood and liquidambar2 to view the fires of the swamp-maple1 the ochres of the sassafras and clarets of the oak2 while1 fringing the edges of the thicket1 the bronzed fronds of the ostrich-fern and gilded pennants of the aspens flutter their farewell to the passing year4 ,on every side the insignia of autumn blaze4 ,thorns hang heavy with their burden of ruddy fruit1 the black-alder berries gleam crimson in the swamp1 hickory and elm shower down their ore4 ,and but for the patter of dropping nuts1 the robin's angelus1 and the lisping of migrants pluming for their southward flight1 one might suppose the arrased woodland halls had never hearkened to the hermit's song or echoed to the veery's strain4 ,in the air overhead the midges are holding their final dance2 while from the lengthening shadows and plaintive autumn breeze comes a whispered admonition to seize the fleeting moment and make the most of the golden hour4 ,nevertheless1 however alive to the enchantments of nature1 the tonical quality of the air will have asserted its sway1 and the gunner's appetite have mounted apace with the bag4 ,so1 in that contented frame of mind and body which out-of-door exercise imparts1 one arrives at the scene of the luncheon1 which has been happily chosen in a glade through which the slanting sunbeam strays4 ,and here the arrivals will note with delight the presence not only of certain vitreous receptacles with gilded capsules that are cooling in the stream1 but also that of ,st4 ,ange1 who so distinguished himself on a previous occasion with his wonderful salmis of quail4 ,with the first glass of the foaming essence of the ,marne1 which blends admirably with the lobster-cutlets and tartare sauce1 even the most enthusiastic of sportsmen will experience no regret at the change from the covers of the upland to those of the table4 ,the more so as1 passing to a vintage of the ,haut-,mdoc with its accompaniment of eggs farcis1 chicken-breasts with a chestnut stuffing1 lettuce sandwiches with pt de foie gras1 and the final tartlets of puff-paste1 the brightness of bright eyes increases1 the merry tale goes round1 and ,st4 ,ange arises to this gastronomic homily3 ,the collation to which we have done such merited justice demonstrates that not only in the society of the fair sex may man enjoy a delightful hunting-jaunt1 but that the care they are capable of bestowing upon the spread renders their companionship even yet more desirable4 ,the best of all sauces is hunger engendered by exercise in the open air1 and1 equally1 the best of digestives is pleasant company4 ,but you have asked me to present my views of a fte champtre4 ,in the present instance1 as ,i consider the excellence of the repast1 and survey the ideal scene that surrounds us1 where even the trees disburse a golden tribute1 ,i have but to draw from the hour itself to find all the elements that are necessary for an ideal rural outing--congenial company1 a faultless day1 an unexceptionable lunch1 and picturesque environment4 ,as for the luncheon1 its perfection consists in its piquancy and lightness4 ,all heavy dishes should be scrupulously avoided4 ,taken at an unaccustomed time during the middle of the day1 they are not only more or less indigestible and conducive to plethora1 but they are inimical to the dinner which necessarily succeeds at a later hour1 and which1 however well prepared1 must prove a failure without appetite4 ,in planning the luncheon one should always see to it that some tart relishes1 as well as sweets1 accompany the more substantial portions2 for the taste out-of-doors invariably craves one or the other1 if not both4 ,it is equally important that the wines be served at the right temperature1-- ',the ,roederer chilly to a charm1 ,as ,juno's breath the claret warm1'-- and that some one person be held strictly accountable for their condition4 ,where exercise is to be freely partaken of1 beer or ale and some effervescent water should always form a part of the provision-box4 ,at all seasons during which an outing may be taken with comfort1 ice should be liberally provided4 ,its absence may spoil the day4 ,if not wanted1 its burden is light2 and if required1 nothing can take its place4 ,where women lend their attractions to the party1 champagne of a fine vintage1 neither too sweet nor too dry1 should be allowed to flow freely4 ,the advantage of this form of wine consists not only in the exhilarating sparkle and play of its mantling life1 where the beads that airily rise are ever in pursuit of those that have merrily passed2 but in the magnetism it possesses above all other wines--of tempting the fair sex to drink an extra glass4 ,the location for the midday symposium1 if well chosen1 will add greatly to the enjoyment of the occasion4 ,this should be free from draughts1 by the side of a stream if possible1 and offer an attractive view4 ,these conditions fulfilled1 nothing but pleasant remembrances can remain until the next villeggiatura4 ,you have requested of me a new dish4 ,and if you forget ,la ,bruyre's sentence that 'all has been said1 and we arrive too late by more than seven thousand years since man has lived and thought1' ,i may observe that cookery is older than literature1 and that new dishes are as difficult to devise as new thoughts are to be born2 it is only by new combinations in both that one may hope to achieve applause4 ,yet there is everything in a delicate touch in cooking1 which is always more inherent than acquired1 a connaissance of herbs and flavourings1 and a natural love for the good things of the table1 inspired by robust health and inheritance4 ,with precisely the same components1 no two artisans will produce the same results4 ,there is an art even in the boiling of a potato1 as there is in the blending of a salad1 the gilding of a roast fowl1 and a game-bird cooked point4 ,baron ,brisse1 you will recollect1 has contributed an invaluable recipe for a gigot rechauff1 whereby a leg of mutton may be made to do duty for two consecutive days4 ,here is the mode to prepare a gigot la ,richelieu which is not chronicled in the cook-books1--the allusion to the distinguished ,cardinal referring both to its cardinal virtues and the colour of the sauce4 ,it is unnecessary to state that this dish belongs to the dinner and not to the luncheon3 ,gigot de mouton la ,richelieu4 ,in the leg of mutton you have chosen1 which should be that of a ,pr-,sal or a ,south ,down wether two years old and properly hung--the four-year-olds are too fat and are apt to taste tallowy--you will make a dozen incisions1 placing in each its tithe or twelfth part of a clove of garlic4 ,the gigot will then be rubbed over with flour1 salt1 and a little cayenne4 ,then roast1 basting thoroughly1 and serve somewhat underdone1 with a tomato sauce composed as follows3 ,take half a can of tomatoes1 add half a clove of garlic1 a small piece of bay-leaf1 two cloves1 a sprig of parsley1 a stick of celery1 two small carrots1 and a small piece of raw ham4 ,cook half an hour1 pass through a sieve2 take a tablespoonful each of flour and butter and make a roux in a separate stewpan2 then add the tomato sauce1 together with a little broth1 salt and pepper1 cooking until the proper consistency of the sauce is attained4 ,on the sauce1 to a great extent1 depends the success of the dish1 which1 when well executed1 is altogether too good to last for two consecutive days4 ,i concede the merits of my deceased friend1 the worthy baron2 but try a gigot de mouton la ,richelieu6 ,with this dish alone1 including its vegetable accessories1 and a salad1 a bit of ,rocquefort and a sound bottle of old ,bordeaux1 one may say with ,joseph ,dlorme1-- ',jouissons1 jouissons de la douce journe1 ,et ne la troublons pas1 cette heure fortune4' 7,to the fullest enjoy the sweets of the day1 ,and stay the bright hour ere it passeth away47 ,i have now only to propose the health of the ladies who have so enhanced the pleasures of the occasion2 and1 finally1 to remind the sportsmen who1 with all their distractions1 have admirably distinguished themselves prior to the luncheon1 that sending game1 which one may have secured at the expense of many a league of toil through field and covert-side1 to certain friends is sometimes a waste of good-will3 ',it will soon be time for you to pull the trigger again1' observed one of two enthusiasts of the gun to a companion1 as they were discussing the vinous virtues of the #ahie ,clos-,lamarche1 whilst the dun ,september evening rapidly shut out the twilight and proclaimed the advent of autumn once more4 ',yes1' was the rejoinder2 ',i intend to try the woodcock to-morrow4 ,but ,i shall not repeat the experience ,i had last year on the same date1 when1 sending my bag of the long-bills to a convalescing patient who was a connoisseur in art but not in fer natur1 ,i received a most appreciative acknowledgment by return mail1 thanking me for the delicious quail ,i had sent him4' ,but the cigars are finished1 the golden afternoon is waning1 and the chill of the autumnal evening will descend swiftly upon the scene4 ,there remains time1 ere the return1 only for a brief drawing of a neighbouring cover of alders1 where a flight of fall woodcock may be probing amid their secluded glooms4 ,the birds prove plentiful1 the pointers are staunch1 and notwithstanding the somewhat prolonged repast1 the aim of the sportsmen is true4 ,a bevy of quail1 which at the final moment rise wildly from the edge of the covert and twist down the hillside1 must be left for another occasion1 with but three of their number to swell the score4 ,how darkly blue the contours of the distant hills1 seen athwart a patch of flaming sumach and bramble6 ,with what brilliancy the beams of the sinking sun irradiate the gold of the beeches and the spun silver of the gossamer6 ,and how the bright eyes of those in waiting sparkle at the sight of the woodcocks1 as the hampers are hastily repacked1 and the orange crescent of the hunter's moon speeds the party onward through the paling twilight and a wan mist that is stealthily creeping over the landscape1--the grey ghost of the departed ,october day6 ,illustration3 ,,truffle-,,hunting ,,in ,,the ,,dauphin ,from the ,salon picture after ,paul ,vayson ,illustration ,,two ,,esculents ,,par ,,excellence ,avec les truffes1 et avec quelques-uns de ces excellents champignons si admirablement analyss par ,m4 ,roques1 vous refaites la cuisine2 vous en avez une du moins qui ne vieillit jamais1 mme pour vous4--,,marquis ,,de ,,cussy3 ,l',art ,culinaire4 ,the truffle6 what a fragrance its very name exhales4 ,a flower like the rose1 but more enduring1 say its admirers4 ,this strange food product has been studied by botanists1 sung by poets1 extolled by epicures1 and accorded certain rare attributes by physicians4 ,unseen1 it is sought for by entire communities2 and discovered1 it is treasured as a priceless gem of the table4 ,savarin defined it as the diamond of the kitchen4 ,by ,la ,reynire it was previously referred to as a sample of ,paradise1 and later eulogised as possessing a torrent of delights2 while by ,dumas it was pronounced the sacrum sacrorum of the gastronomer4 ,it may1 in truth1 be regarded as the superlative of esculents1 its powerful and delectable aroma dominating that of all other aliments with which it may come in contact4 ,to the cuisine of winter it is what the violet is to the chaplet of spring4 ,the old ,greeks and ,romans were extremely partial to it1 although the varieties known to them and mentioned by ,pliny differed from the famous ,tuber melanosporum of southern ,france--the blackest and1 as regarded by many1 the most perfumed and delicious of its curious and widely distributed family4 ,about #ahbe1 under ,minister ,villle1 it came into greatest vogue in ,paris1 when the subject was taken up by the press1 and so much was written in praise of the tuber that the demand soon increased threefold1 and its price became correspondingly augmented4 ,like the mushroom1 the truffle is impatient of keeping when gathered4 ,preserved truffles1 as a rule1 are but a semblance of the fresh product when eaten at its precise maturity2 and those who know this thallogen only in the former state have little idea of its marvellous flavour when fresh and in full possession of its virtues1 whether it be served by itself or utilised as a vehicle for heightening the flavours of other dishes4 ,its use demands the knowledge of an artist2 for it is only with certain forms of aliments that it should be employed4 ,the onion and the mushroom detract from its savour1 and it is chiefly in conjunction with fatty substances that its most expressive results are attained4 ,by ,french epicures it is tacitly understood that there can be no grand dinner without truffles4 ,who would dare to say1 exclaims ,savarin1 that he has attended a repast where a pice truffe did not figure6 ,however good an entre may be1 it should always be accompanied by truffles to set it off advantageously4 ,its harmonious association with grain-fed fowls is proverbial1--so much so1 it has been remarked1 that at a well-composed dinner every phrase which may have begun should be suspended upon the arrival of a truffled turkey4 ,berchoux thus alludes to its use with fowls1-- ,l'abondance est unie la dlicatesse1 ,la truffe a parfum la poularde de ,bresse4 7,the truffle yields its most adored caress ,when tuck'd within a tender fowl of ,bresse47 ,at a dinner where the renowned naturalist ,buffon was present1 a truffled ,prigueux turkey was brought in with great clat4 ,inspired by the penetrating aroma1 an elderly lady who was among the guests inquired of ,buffon where the tuber grew4 ,at your feet1 ,madame1 was the ready reply4 ,the lady not understanding1 it was thus explained to her3 ,c'est aux pieds des charmes 7at the feet of yoke-elm trees74 ,the compliment passed as a happy one4 ,towards the end of the dinner some one asked the same question of ,buffon1 who1 forgetful of his elderly vis--vis1 innocently replied1 ,they grow aux pieds des vieux charmes 7old yoke-elm trees74 ,the lady overheard him1 and it is unnecessary to state was no longer impressed with his genius as a naturalist1 or with the fact that a soup had been named in his honour by the great ,carme4 ,though common to many countries1 and comprising numerous species1 the truffle attains its greatest excellence in ,france1 unless the white truffle of ,italy1 which is considered equally good by many1 be excepted4 ,its chosen haunts are clayey soils mixed with sand and limestone1 moist1 shaded1 and temperate localities1 southerly and easterly expositions1 protected slopes1 and especially the umbrage of oaks1 as also of aspens1 black poplars1 nut-trees1 yoke-elms1 willows1 and white birches4 ,limestone or carbonate of lime is accounted as necessary to its formation1 while the presence of iron imparts to it an added firmness and aroma4 ,despite persistent efforts1 all attempts to cultivate it have proved fruitless4 ,it is only of recent years that it has become known in part how it is propagated or how it grows4 ,among trees1 the oak is its most favoured companion1 its artificial production having been accomplished wholly through the cultivation of oaks and certain other trees in soils and expositions corresponding to its natural habitat4 ,by general consent ,prigord is credited with producing the best truffles1 the next in commercial repute being those obtained from ,provence and ,dauphin2 the finest of the former come from the canton of ,sarlat1 the best of ,dauphin from the cantons of ,tain and ,valence4 ,among authorities1 ,beauvilliers preferred the black product of ,provence 7,t4 melanosporum71 of which there are two varieties1 the so-termed violet and the grey2 and ,savarin the white species 7,t4 magnatum71 obtained preferably from ,piedmont1 where it occurs beneath poplars and oaks during summer4 ,the whitish-brown truffle of ,italy1 in its early stage1 similar to the whitebait described by ,thackeray1 possesses an ambrosial flavour1 and is difficult to surpass1 combining as it does all the most ethereal qualities of the ,allium tribe with the dulcet pungency of ,gorgonzola when in its freshest flower4 ,a species exists which emits a powerful scent of musk1 while numerous others occur with odours so rank as to be utterly unfit for edible purposes4 ,northern ,spain produces excellent truffles1 but these are comparatively short-lived4 ,t4 stivum1 called summer truffle1 indigenous to many countries1 is extremely plentiful in southern ,france4 ,it is common to ,england1 where it grows most frequently under beech-trees4 ,this exhales a strong and penetrating smell which has been compared to that of sheep-folds4 ,the effluvium of garlic is always very marked in the white truffle of ,italy1 and by some it is said to recall the odour of garlic mixed with onion1 high game1 and matured cheese4 ,after standing for a time1 when its garlic flavour has become somewhat modified1 it is also suggestive of the flavour of vegetable-oysters4 ,indeed1 the truffle is as strange in its odours as it is in its manner of growth1 and in certain respects it brings to mind some characteristics of that strangest of flowers1 the orchid4 ,from ,november to ,march is the season when the prized dark tuber is most abundant1 and during which its highest qualities are evolved4 ,the black pearl of ,provence and ,prigord begins to take on its rich ebon hue in ,october1 lasting until ,april3 stivum and its varieties being gathered during ,may and ,june in ,provence1 and from ,october to ,january in ,burgundy and ,champagne4 ,the species of greatest repute in southern ,france is found at variable depths1 mostly beneath certain oaks known as chnes truffiers1 or truffle-oaks4 ,with it often occurs another species1 ,t4 brumale1 which is likewise held in much esteem and figures as a large commercial factor4 ,among the inhabitants the truffle harvest forms an extensive industry2 pigs1 dogs1 and professional hunters being utilised for the quest1 and the crop always commanding high prices1 which are fixed by the ,paris market4 ,when the supply happens to be short1 many inferior species are substituted or are mixed with the genuine4 ,of recent years artificial truffires have been largely planted in the favoured districts of southern ,france4 ,to ,m4 ,rousseau1 a proprietor of ,vaucluse1 has been erroneously ascribed the discovery of this means of production4 ,already during the middle of the eighteenth century ,m4 de ,montclar1 procureur-gnral at ,aix1 discovered truffles as the result of sowing acorns on his lands2 but1 the truffles disappearing subsequently1 no further attention was paid to the matter1 and the relation between cause and effect passed unnoticed or was forgotten4 ,since then ,poitou1 ,prigord1 and ,provence have each claimed to be the discoverer of artificial truffle culture4 ,it is within a comparatively short period only that the merit of originating the system1 now a source of great revenue1 was adjudged1 after painstaking investigation1 to ,joseph ,talon1 a small landholder of ,vaucluse1 who about eighty years ago sowed some acorns in an unremunerative piece of ground4 ,ten years afterwards1 while passing through the plantation with the pig he employed in hunting1 he was not a little surprised to find truffles beneath the oaks2 when1 recollecting that he had obtained the acorns from a truffle-oak1 he repeated the sowing on another plot1 which in course of time proved equally successful4 ,the theory was established beyond a doubt1 and the result finally became generally known1 despite his efforts to keep it secret4 ,many unsuccessful attempts at artificial truffle-raising have been made4 ,in #ahcj ,alexander ,bernholz1 a ,german1 published a long treatise on the subject1 his theory being that by planting truffles in soil composed of certain ingredients1 and in localities and expositions corresponding to their natural habitat1 they could be successfully grown4 ,count ,no1 in the south of ,france1 is said to have succeeded in raising truffles in his woods by irrigating the ground1 after a certain degree of preparation1 with water in which the skins of truffles had been rubbed4 ,but this statement1 as well as other reputed successful attempts at reproduction1 would not seem to have been borne out in ,france1 where the planting of young truffle-oaks1 the acorns of truffle-oaks1 or certain other truffle-producing trees alone has accomplished the desired result4 ,in artificial plantations the truffles form in from six to ten years1 usually disappearing when the trees are twenty-five or thirty years old4 ,then1 after a variable period of non-production1 the tuber often forms again4 ,as the truffle-tree develops1 the vegetable growth which surrounds it begins to decline1 a certain index that truffles are commencing to form--the ground round a truffle-producing tree being always sterile4 ,when the truffles cease the herbage again appears4 ,though many unsatisfactory reasons have been ascribed for the phenomenon1 it has been traced by ,m4 ,grimblot to the simple fact that the filaments of the mycelium invade and destroy the roots of herbaceous vegetation4 ,similarly1 vegetation asserts itself when the cause is removed4 ,with young trees the truffles are usually found close to the trunk1 whereas with old trees they generally appear near the periphery of the circle formed by the outer roots1 as well as at a distance further removed1 but usually within the shade of the tree4 ,to what extent the humus of the soil formed by the droppings of the leaves is responsible is not stated4 ,in many respects the subject remains1 as it has always remained1 a complex phenomenon that baffles the naturalist1 who is usually content to refer to the truffle as an underground fungus1 or an order of sporidiiferous fungi of subterranean habit4 ,perhaps the definition of ,dr4 ,c4 de ,ferry de la ,bellone1 which may be summarised as follows1 is as accurate as any3 ,a subterraneous mushroom with a mycelium or filamentous body1 from which it is developed1 like the mushroom1 and which requires the roots of certain trees for its formation4#eb ,the theory that the truffle owes its genesis to the roots of trees1 or is in some mysterious manner connected with them1 might be accepted as satisfactory were it not that species are also found in open places where the argument could not apply4 ,while the roots of most kinds of oaks1 both deciduous and evergreen1 appear to be favourable for its generation1 it has been found that in a given region the best species to propagate are those which have already produced the tuber in the locality in question1 certain varieties seeming to be more liable to reproduce it than others4 ,climate1 altitude1 and exposition are also to be considered as regards the choice of the kinds selected for plantations4 ,the arboriculturist and mycologist will be interested in the various truffle-producing oaks that may be utilised1 according to the site1 soil1 and climatic conditions4 ,these embrace the following species and varieties3 ,quercus pedunculata1 ,q4 ped4 pubescens1 ,q4 semi-ped41 ,q4 sessiliflora nigra1 ,q4 nigra sessil4 glabra1 ,q4 nigra sessil4 pub41 ,q4 sessil4 pub41 ,q4 sessil4 laciniata1 ,q4 sessil4 magna pubes1 ,q4 ilex1 ,q4 coccifera4 ,all kinds of nut-trees are likewise favourable to its production1 and may be planted almost indiscriminately4 ,the range of ,t4 melanosporum is broadly defined as between latitude #di north and #dj south2 the question of quality depending1 like that of many other esculents1 largely on climate and habitat4 ,as in the same vineyard certain portions yield a superior wine1 so on particular slopes of localities that favour the truffle a product of finer quality is obtained4 ,besides the usual means of locating the truffle1 its presence is revealed by several species of coleopterous and dipterous insects which1 during late autumn and winter1 on temperate days swarm in the truffle-woods1 attracted by the scent4 ,these insects seek the tuber in which to deposit their eggs1 and are observed entering and leaving the ground--a circumstance which gave rise to the opinion that the truffle was only a gall4 ,this form of truffle-hunting is practised chiefly by poachers1 and is known as la chasse la mouche4 ,the statement that the canned truffle is but a shade of its original will bear modifying in certain instances where only the best species have been utilised1 after scrupulous selection1 before they are wormy or overripe1 and where they have been preserved by the ,appert process1 au naturel1 without oil1 brandy1 or vinegar1 in hermetically sealed cans1 and used before they have been thus preserved for a long period4 ,under these conditions the species melanosporum and magnatum retain no little of their pristine virtues1 and may still glorify a sauce or dignify a ,chteaubriand4 ,to the skill of the cook the result will be principally due4 ,inasmuch as the truffles have already been subjected to several hours' ebullition1 they should only be finely sliced and gently heated in order that their flavour may not be dissipated by the cooking4 ,the dish they are to grace should be prepared first1 and so soon as the truffles are ready it should be immediately served under cover4 ,perhaps as good a medium for utilising the preserved product is a steak with a bordelaise sauce in which garlic or shallots should figure very lightly4 ,the comparative excellence of the preserved truffle will depend1 of course1 upon freshness and the probity and care of the merchant4 ,one may obtain all sorts of truffles with attractive labels1 as one may obtain attractively labelled ,chteau wines that may leave everything to be desired4 ,at a dinner where a bon vivant was expected1 the truffle figured in a novel manner4 ,a friend who is very fond of good things is to be my guest over ,sunday1 said the host to the cook1 who was an excellent practitioner in certain lines2 and ,i want you to use truffles plentifully some way4 ,how shall ,i cook them1 ,mr4 ,s8 ,mrs4 ,s4 isn't here4 ,oh1 ,i don't know2 anyway1 ,i'm in a great hurry1 and ,i'll leave it to you4 ,the soup was admirable1 the lobster la ,newburgh perfect1 and the entre and pommes souffles left nothing to be wished for4 ,to the surprise of all1 a large1 heaping dish of truffles1 charred1 highly spiced1 and finely minced and served as a vegetable1 appeared with the roast4 ,the host remained imperturbable1 a vestige of a frown clouded the usually placid face of madame1 the butler poured the ,chambertin1 and the truffles were passed by4 ,you are the most expensive guest ,i have had in a long time1 remarked the host1 with a smile1 the following day4 ,i must think what we can have this evening for dinner2 or1 better1 consult with madame4 ,there is plenty of champagne in which to cook truffles1 if the cook and the truffles were in evidence4 ,i told her ,i wanted plenty of truffles for you1 and the remaining eleven cans of the dozen in the larder were tendered you last night4 ,the truffle has formed the theme of numerous books and treatises4 ,to the ,french gastronomer who may obtain the fresh product during a large portion of the year1 the work of ,m4 ,m4 ,moynier will unquestionably prove of the greatest value--a major portion being devoted to a scientific analysis of the various dishes1 with their recipes1 in which the esculent may properly figure4 ,it is justly claimed by the author that wine is an indispensable accompaniment of this astonishing production or any dish in which it may enter2 but that sweet champagne to which women are so partial masks rather than quickens its flavour4#ec ,the mycologist who simply wishes to know the species and habits of hypogus fungi will no doubt prefer the monograph of ,vittatini1 ,milan1 #ahca2 that of ,m4 ,tulasne1 ,paris1 #aheb2 and the instructive work of ,dr4 de ,ferry already cited4 ,few more interesting fields for research offer themselves than that presented by the black pearl which is concealed beneath the soil--living its strange life beyond the ken of human eye1 and revealing itself only through the agency of the animals employed by man to discover it1 and of the insect tribes that hover above it in their dance of rivalry and love4 ,savarin1 above all writers1 has considered the truffle philosophically in his comparatively brief reference2 and although he failed to answer the question1 ,what is the truffle1 how is it produced1 and how does it grow8 he has still appraised its virtues in his own inimitable way4 ,that it is digestible has been amply proven before1 and this point did not require his researches to substantiate4 ,the only charges that history records against it are gluttony in eating it1 and the fact that ,lartius ,licinius1 a person of prtorian rank1 while minister of justice at ,carthage in ,spain1 upon biting a truffle found a denarius inside1 which cost him the loss of a tooth--a proof to ,pliny that it was nothing but an agglomeration of elementary earth4 ,of certain attributes it is supposed to possess1 the sixth ,meditation of the ,physiology1 to which the reader is referred1 will speak clearly for itself2 and it will be sufficient to transcribe the conclusion of the learned chancellor's deductions3 ,la truffe n'est point un aphrodisiaque positif2 mais elle peut en certaines occasions rendre les femmes plus tendres et les hommes plus aimables4 ,referring to ,savarin's conclusion1 ,dr4 de ,ferry makes this statement1 based on professional experience3 ,sur l'individu sain et bien portant1 la truffe excite des fonctions spciales4444 ,la truffe peut ajouter seulement aux qualits de ceux qui possdent2 elle n'est plus d'aucun secours ceux qui1 n'ayant pas gr leur capital en bons pres de famille1 ont consomm leur ruine4 ,little attention has been paid to the question whether edible truffles equal to the best ,european species exist within the broad area of the ,united ,states1 whence so many useful and delicious food products and flavourings have sprung4 ,m4 ,moynier states that he has tasted most excellent truffles from ,brazil2 and that a grey species of merit1 round in form1 is found on the right bank of the ,mississippi--a somewhat vague statement1 in view of the length of that river4 ,the only species that ,saccardo's ,sylloge credits to this country is ,t4 macrosporum1 said to have been found in ,pennsylvania4 ,some years ago ,mr4 ,w4 ,r4 ,gerard reported having discovered ,t4 dryophilum on ,staten ,island4 ,rhizopogon rubescens1 a puff-ball1 grows underground in the ,southern ,states1 and is sometimes mistaken for the truffle2 also certain species of ,scleroderma1 or puff-balls which are partially underground4 ,there are besides some of the false truffles of the genus ,elaphomyus in the ,eastern ,states4 ,it will thus be seen that the subterranean fungi belong to three distinct orders4 ,dr4 ,h4 ,w4 ,harkness1 in #ahii1 issued in the ,california ,academy of ,science ,proceedings an illustrated article on the ,hypogus ,fungi of ,california1 wherein he describes thirteen species1 of which seven are new and all of which he pronounces edible1 though few1 if any1 of them are found in abundance or are worth considering from a practical standpoint4 ,illustration3 ,,nouvel ,,manuel ,,complet ,,du ,,cuisinier ,,et ,,de ,,la ,,cuisini,,re ,facsimile of frontispiece1 #ahbb ,from this it may be inferred that if these fungi could be diligently sought for in other ,states by those who have carefully studied the haunts and habitat of the tuber abroad1 many desirable species might be found to belong to our country4 ,dr4 ,harkness does not mention ,t4 melanosporum among ,californian species4 ,at present we do not know whether this or ,t4 magnatum1 or some form possessing equally adorable qualities1 occurs in our country at all2 but they and others1 it is possible1 may yet be unearthed to disclose to the epicure a true sample of ,paradise4 ,to do this1 trained truffle-pigs and-dogs must be brought into requisition2 and should the search then be unrewarded1 the truffle-oak must needs be imported and planted under conditions corresponding to those of its native habitat4 ,let ,america add the truffle to her already rich alimentary resources1 by all means1 even if she must remain content with the wines of ,france as supplied from oversea4 99 99 99 99 99 ,if the truffle may be described as an occult vegetable substance with no stem1 cap1 or visible mycelium1 in great repute with epicures1 and most generally found firmly embedded beneath the surface of pt de foie gras1--the mushroom1 common to nearly all latitudes1 grows in visible profusion1 and may be readily obtained for the seeking4 ,some knowledge of genera and species1 nevertheless1 becomes necessary if one would avail himself of this nutritious esculent4 ,one must know what to avoid as well as what to choose2 for often highly dangerous sorts are very nearly allied to the harmless4 ,of recent years the study of fungi has received considerable attention1 and the mushroom has become much better known with us than formerly4 ,compared with ,european countries1 however1 the average person still knows little concerning its edible varieties4 ,few are unacquainted with the most prevalent form1 ,agaricus campestris1 whose shining white pileus dots the meadows1 pastures1 and roadsides4 ,but whether familiar or unknown out of doors1 no introduction to it will be required at table4 ,its very mention makes one's mouth water1 and evokes a longing for the cool shadows of fall and the restful minor of the crickets' choir4 ,to appreciate it thoroughly1 one should gather it himself1 or1 rather1 in congenial companionship4 ,and as its form is typical of femininity in its rounded contours1 its white satiny gown and rose-silk petticoat1 to say nothing of its dainty veil and frill1 it is eminently proper that madame or mademoiselle1 as the case may be1 should join in the quest4 ,on a bland ,september day1 therefore1 let the lanes and pastures remote from the highway be explored in company when the first ripening sprays of the sugar-maple are commencing to brighten and the clusters of the everlasting are beginning to unfold4 ,then will the delights of the chase prove doubly enjoyable2 and with the common agaric as the object of pursuit there will equally be little danger from mistaken varieties4 ,at most1 the harmless horse-mushroom may obtrude1 to be plucked and cast aside4 ,but the mushroom is far from being confined to the pastures and fields1 or its duration limited to a few weeks of autumn2 and despite the excellent general dietetic advice of the fourth satire of the second book1 ,horace's dictum should not be taken too seriously1-- ,best flavoured mushrooms meadow-land supplies1 ,in other kinds a dangerous poison lies4 ,by many ,a4 ,rodmani1 the small compact species common to cities and found growing along the sidewalks and curb1 is preferred to campestris4 ,less rich1 it still possesses a full1 nutty fragrance and flavour1 and is more digestible4 ,even more distinguished is another agaric1 ,lepiota procura1 or the tall parasol-mushroom--one of the most delicious of all edible fungi4 ,many valuable species throng the woods and shady places during a large portion of the genial season1 to push through the mould or clothe the stumps and decaying logs--in most instances ungathered or unseen4 ,and though ,claudius1 ,tiberius1 ,pope ,clement ,,vii1 ,charles ,v of ,france1 ,czar ,alexis of ,russia1 and many other celebrated personages met their death from eating deleterious mushrooms1 and every year scores of families are poisoned through them1 the esculent continues to occupy a highly exalted place among aliments4 ,ignorance and carelessness are almost entirely responsible for disastrous results1 owing to its use as food1 although ill effects naturally occur through over-indulgence in eating perfectly harmless varieties1 or where these may have passed the edible stage4 ,extremely rich in nitrogenous elements as well as in sapid properties1 mushrooms should be sparingly partaken of4 ,sliced and placed on hot toast which has been moistened with broth and the juices of the cooking1 one may often obtain all the flavour of the mushroom by its employment in moderate quantities1 and thus over-ingestion will be avoided4 ,the study of fungi has always proved a fascinating one for the botanist4 ,with the aid of nearly any of numerous monographs in which the various genera are described1 as also faithfully reproduced in colours1 the student and nature-lover may easily familiarize himself with at least the more important species4 ,in his search for practical information he will be led through many a smiling scene removed from the haunts of man2 while his chief precaution in his pursuit out of doors need only be to avoid the ,taurus and the deadly ,amanita4 ,the trained mycologist1 however1 will readily distinguish between the beautiful toxic ,fly-,amanita and the inviting edible orange variety1 which1 having graced the table of a ,roman emperor1 received the name ,csar's mushroom1 whence its botanical appellation4 ,this is the ,oronge of the ,french and ,kaiserling of the ,germans1 more prized1 perhaps1 than the ,morel1 the white ,helvella1 or the handsome ,chanterelle4 ,its odour is said to resemble a combination of vanilla and truffles4 ,the variety rubescens is also regarded as one of the best of edible mushrooms4 ,of all fungi the ,amanitas are most to be feared2 and while numerous other kinds possess unwholesome and forbidden properties1 the dangerously poisonous belong principally to this single genus4 ,to them ,gerard's definitions1 excressences1 ,toadstooles1 very venomous and full of poison1 may well apply4 ,by the seventeenth-century poet ,william ,browne1 bard of ,britannia's ,pastorals and ,the ,shepherd's ,pipe1 the mushroom is thus alluded to3 ,down in a valley by a forest's side1 ,near where the crystal ,thames rolls on her waves1 ,i saw a mushroom stand in haughty pride ,as if the lilies grew to be his slaves4 ,then1 after praising the daisy1 violet1 and other flowers whose beauty was overpowered by the fungus1 he thus concludes a much-admired sonnet3 ,these1 with a many more1 methought complained ,that ,nature should those needless things produce1 ,which not alone the sun from others gained1 ,but turn it wholly to their proper use4 ,i could not choose but grieve that ,nature made ,so glorious flowers to live in such a shade4 ,where noisome toadstools crowd out violets and daisies1 it may be right for poets to protest4 ,as it is1 we have little in the description to guide us to the species1 whether it was a desirable or an undesirable kind4 ,there is no allusion as to its toxic properties1 nor yet to its colour2 and its seeming size--if the simile of the lilies be considered--may only be a license which poets are allowed4 ,but the bard of ,tavistock1 whose oaten melodye still rings sweet and clear1 has written too lovingly of trees to suppose he could perceive no use or beauty in a striking vegetable growth2 and therefore the particular form he refers to would appear to have been a noxious one4 ,surely1 it was not the lovely mauve-coloured ,cortinarius1 that seeks the forest's shade2 the expanded pea-green cope of the sweet and nutty ,russula2 or the glowing orange hood of the dulcet ,lactarius that incurred his disapproval6 ,nor can one conceive it to have been the tall-stemmed1 fluted-capped ,coprinus1 or the stylish parasolled ,lepiota1 which stands as upright as the stilted ,bartramian sandpiper1 and that is held in equal esteem by the epicure4 ,rather let us suppose it was the great poison ,amanita1 which has slain its thousands1 and whose brilliant reds and salmons and yellows1 and white scales borne aloft on their hollow pedestal1 cry aloud from every gill1 ,beware6 ,or if it was not this or the equally deadly ,a4 phalloides on which his graceful sonnet was based1 it must have been the ,lycoperdon which cast its shade upon the violets--the giant puff-ball that the poet did not recognise as a valuable food product when neatly sliced and fried1 and that it is still the rule to kick out of one's way4 ,in like manner1 one is curious to know what was the enormous fungus or mushroom ,thoreau describes as meeting on one of his rambles1 and which1 in turn1 incurs his malediction1--the huge thallogen he found and plucked high up on the open side of a dry hill1 in the midst of and rising above the thin ,june grass1 its sharply conical parasol in the form of a sugarloaf slightly turned up at the edges1 which were rent half an inch for every inch or two4 ,the whole length1 he states1 was sixteen inches1 the cap being six inches long by seven wide1 the stem about one inch in diameter and naked1 the top of the cap pure white within and without4 ,he marvels how its soft cone ever broke through the earth4 ,it represents to him a vegetable force which may almost make man tremble for his dominion4 ,it carries him back to the era of the formation of the coal measures1 the age of the ,saurus and the ,pliosaurus1 when bull-frogs were as big as bulls4 ,what part has it to perform in the economy of the world8 ,it brought before him pictures of parasols of ,chinese mandarins2 or it might have been used by the great fossil bull-frog in his walks4 ,returning home with it1 he placed it in the cellar to note its decay4 ,like the mighty1 it fell4 ,by night there remained not more than two of the six inches of the height of the cap1 and it went on rapidly melting from the edges upward1 spreading as it dissolved till it was shaped like a dish-cover and the barrel head beneath it and its own stem looked as if a large bottle of ink had been broken there4 ,it defiled all it touched4 ,is it not a giant mildew or mould8 he inquires4 ,the offspring of a night1 it was wasted in a day4 ,one thinks of ,coprinus comatus--a colossal specimen of the shaggy mane2 and doubtless this was the species encountered by the ,walden sage1 rearing its silver shaft through the thin ,june grass in his early morning tramp to ,pinxter ,spring4 ,who has not seen and wondered at the ,fairy-ring1 dotting the lawns or pastures1 with its eccentric habit of growing in circles or arcs of circles1 and shrinking and expanding under the influence of drought and moisture8 ,yet how few are acquainted with its admirable qualities6 ,but even here one must distinguish between the false and the true1 and not mistake it for two of its genus1 the poison buff-coloured ,champignon and poison ,fairy-ring1 which it resembles and with which it is sometimes found associated4 ,in like manner1 the rufous hues of several edible ,russulas must not be confounded with the engaging crimsons of the alveolate ,boletus1 or the brilliant shades of the unwholesome ,r4 emetica1 one of the most tempting of fungi to the eye4 ,its glowing satiny scarlet cap1 set off by its white stem and gills1 forms a dash of colouration on the woodland carpet that immediately challenges admiration4 ,with various others of the alluring but dangerous fungi1 it suggests some luscious tropic fruit1 the flame of tulips1 or the flush of ,ghent azaleas4 ,what a revel of reds1 what greens and golds1 what soft violets and greys1 what rich russets and maroons are not unfolded by these strange fungoid flowers6 ,the beefsteak-mushroom 7,fistulina hepatica7 is familiar to many as it reveals its red velvety layers or shelves on the dead trunks of oaks and chestnuts in the midsummer woods4 ,but despite its appetising name1 it has a somewhat acid flavour and leathery taste1 and cannot be said to possess very palatable qualities1 conditions also shared by the common ,agaricus ostreatus1 or oyster-mushroom4 ,while the canned ,french button-mushroom of commerce is not to be compared with the same species in its freshly gathered stage1 it is nevertheless useful as a garnish1 and possesses a certain flavour4 ,far different is the large ,french cpe1 one of the most delicious of esculents1 corresponding to the ,german ,steinpilz and our own edible ,boletus1 which is much less known than it deserves to be4 ,of the ,french ,boletus there are two principal varieties--the cpe franc la tte noir or charbonnier1 common to oak woods1 and the tte rousse or brune1 common to chestnut woods4 ,the former is much more esteemed1 and is most abundant in the southern departments4 ,these1 like the truffle in the preserved state1 should be as fresh as possible1 and those of the previous autumn gathering1 put up au naturel in large cans1 be selected in preference4 ,boletus edulis1 though not over-plentiful with us1 may be found during warm1 damp weather from ,july to ,september in woods and their margins1 and sometimes in open places4 ,prepared la bordelaise1 it is a most delicious and nutritious dish1 a form of preparation that may be utilised to advantage with many other firm-fleshed species4 ,dumas' favourite mode of preparing them was after ,vuillemot's recipe2 and for those who are not fond of oil1 which the bordelaise and provenale manner calls for1 this will doubtless prove more acceptable3 ,cut and chop the stems1 adding minced parsley1 breadcrumbs1 shallots1 fresh butter1 and a clove of chopped garlic2 make a pt of it all1 season with salt1 pepper1 and a little allspice1 garnish the bottom of the cpes1 sprinkle some breadcrumbs on top1 brown in a hot oven1 and serve4 ,here again1 as ,baron ,brisse would say1 the trouble is trifling and the succulence extreme4 ,the ,united ,states has a number of edible ,boleti1 some distinctive and some identical with the best ,french species4 ,unfortunately1 the genus contains several deleterious sorts1 and these frequently are not readily distinguishable from description alone4 ,several of the ,boleti have long been considered as among the most dangerous of the toadstool or mushroom tribe2 but recent investigations tend to show that the majority are at least harmless1 while many are most desirable4 ,of ,morels and puff-balls none is said to be poisonous4 ,the puff-ball1 however1 is unfit for eating1 if not absolutely poisonous1 after the formation and ripening of its spores2 and in gathering puff-balls great care should be taken not to mistake for them several of the poison ,amanitas in their younger stage1 these being similarly enveloped in a spherical sack or volva4 ,most mushrooms1 apart from the ,amanitas1 are now regarded as not deadly poisonous4 ,indeed1 ,mc,ilvaine declares that ,r4 emetica1 which he and others repeatedly partook of in liberal quantities while in the ,carolinas1 proved to be perfectly harmless4 ,the viscid1 glutinous types1 all the so-called trembling toadstools1 together with such as are unpleasant to the sense of smell1 will of course be shunned1 while those not well acquainted with fungi will also view with distrust the various beautiful and gorgeous species which haunt the shade4 ,no reliance may be placed in the test of the silver spoon4 ,the novice should first of all familiarise himself with the more common species through some of the less technical treatises1 or take a practical lesson from a specialist out of doors4 ,the manner of distinguishing doubtful varieties adopted by mycologists may also be utilised by the amateur3 first be guided by the shape and smell1 being careful to avoid all cup-shaped kinds1 or those whose juices change colour on cutting2 then taste sparingly without swallowing1 when1 if not acrid1 burning1 or disagreeable1 a little of the juice may be swallowed the following day1 increasing the amount day by day1 if no feelings of nausea occur1 until the wholesomeness of the species is demonstrated4 ,by discarding all kinds with cups or suggestion of cups1 the ,amanitas will be avoided4 ,any mushroom1 omitting the ,amanita1 which is pleasant to the taste and otherwise agreeable as to odour and texture when raw1 is probably harmless1 says ,gibson1 and may safely be thus ventured on with a view of establishing its edibility4 ,still1 it is always well1 even by the initiated1 to remember the apothegm of ,gavarni1 ,mushrooms are like men--the bad most closely counterfeit the good4 ,of the scores of treatises devoted to the subject may be specially instanced ,w4 ,hamilton ,gibson's artistic volume1#ed the finely illustrated ,report of the ,new ,york ,state ,botanist1#ee ,professor ,atkinson's illustrated ,studies of ,american ,fungi1#ef and1 finally1 ,captain ,mc,ilvaine's elaborate and exhaustive monograph4#eg ,recipes for the cookery of mushrooms are abundant in the cook-books and treatises on fungi2 and1 like the cook-books themselves1 these vary from good to bad and indifferent4 ,some general rules regarding their proper preparation are well and briefly laid down by the ,marquis de ,cussy in his ,art ,culinaire3 ,this kind has a thick and firm texture--you will see that it is cooked long4 ,this other has a fine and tender flesh--you will cook it gently in a hermetically sealed receptacle in order that its light particles1 full of life and dainty fragrance1 are not dissipated4 ,if your mushrooms contain a fixed and resinous matter1 sprinkle them with a dry wine to dissolve this sapid principle4 ,with these plants you may make intoxicating mixtures1 unique infusions4 ,turn to ,carme1 he will guide you and tell you what wine belongs to such and such kinds--whether ,pomard with its fresh taste1 or ,saint-,georges2 whether the delicate and sparkling ,a1 or the stomachic ,haut-,brion4 ,read also the witty and elegant pages of ,m4 ,joseph ,roques4 ,the group of fungi known as mushrooms and toadstools constitutes a valuable accessory1 both in themselves and in their properties of accentuating the flavour of other foods2 and to those who are capable of distinguishing their many delicious species they may form1 through a considerable portion of the year1 a marked addition to the variety and pleasures of the table4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,the ,,wounded ,,snipe ,from an engraving after ,a4 ,couquet1 ,r4,a4 ,illustration ,,sallets ,,and ,,salads ,first then to speak of ,sallets1 there be some simple1 some compounded1 some only to furnish out the table1 and some both for use and adornation4--,,gervaise ,,markham3 ,the ,english ,housewife4 ,to remember a successful salad is generally to remember a successful dinner2 at all events1 the perfect dinner necessarily includes the perfect salad4 ,the mere process of salad-making is among the most simple of all those that appertain to the table3 a little oil1 a little vinegar1 of salt and pepper each a little1 the onion and the mixing1 with such other herbs and condiments as the artist may elect4 ,and yet an unexceptionable salad is as rare in the average household as a piece of old ,gubbio1 or a fine old ,ghiordes prayer-rug4 ,seldom1 indeed1 is this refreshing dish met with as one usually finds it in ,france--crisp1 tender1 and appetising1 with none of its ingredients perceptibly dominant in the liaison which1 first pleasingly addressing the taste1 is afterwards destined to soothe and tranquillise digestion4 ,the reason is not difficult to analyse2 the happy touch which is necessary in salads and sauces being largely a matter of individual address and a growth of advanced gastronomy4 ,for in the preparing of salads no formula that is absolute may be given1 success depending upon practice1 a correct taste1 and minute attention to detail4 ,here1 as in everything else that is faultless1 care and experience are factors requisite to attainment4 ,but though an infallible recipe may not be laid down1 certain broad lines may be specified1 the observance of which1 with application1 will render a good salad possible even to the neophyte4 ,at every season of the year some of the innumerable products of the vegetable world present themselves to be converted with the aid of the caster from the crude into the finished form2 and more is the pity that the artists are not as numerous as the esculents4 ,from the first tributes of the hot-bed--the lettuces1 radishes1 and garden-cress of early spring1 and the cos1 lettuces1 and water-cresses of summer to the endives of autumn and corn-salad and chicory of winter1 one has an abundance of material to choose from in what may be broadly designated the lettuce tribe1 alone4 ,when to these are added other esculents like celery1 the tomato1 cucumber1 potato1 beets1 carrots1 beans1 celery-root1 celery-turnip1 etc41 together with the manifold herbs and bulbous plants that may be utilised in connection with them1 surely the roast should never be lacking in this its most harmonious appoggiatura1 or the supper-table fail in one of its greatest attractions4 ,the salad imparts a zest to the dinner that were otherwise unattainable4 ,what were those most delectable of game-birds that reward the sportsman's skill--the snipe and the partridge--without it8 ,it was rightly held by ,evelyn that sallets are an essential part of the daily food of man1 and that no dinner is complete without one2 although those who are not confirmed devotees of the salad-bowl might possibly prove sceptical as to two forms which he specifies in ,sylva1--,i am told that those small young ,acorns which we find in the ,stock-doves ,craws are a delicious fare1 as well as those incomparable ,salads of young herbs taken out of the maws of ,partridge at a certain season of the year1 which gives them a preparation far exceeding all the art of ,cookery4 ,of the virtues of lettuce1 at any rate1 there can be no doubt1 ,parkinson having declared that ,lettices all cool a hot and fainting stomache1 and ,gerarde averring that ,lettuce cooleth the heate of the stomache1 called the heart-burning1 and helpeth it when it is troubled with choller4 ,and if these assertions be not sufficient1 we have ,savarin's assurance that salad refreshes without weakening1 and comforts without irritating2 not to mention the dictum of his illustrious predecessor ,la ,reynire1 that the inseparable partner of the roast may reappear at each meal without ever wearying4 ,in #ageh a ,german work by ,j4 ,f4 ,schutze was published in ,leipzig with the title1 ,treatise on the ,advantages and ,disadvantages of ,salads4 ,it is difficult to imagine how a ,german could find aught but delight in this form of food1 unless the native black radish was alluded to1 or possibly the cucumber when improperly served4 ,rather let us at once accept the unqualified encomium of ,jack ,cade while in ,iden's ,kentish garden1--,i think this word 'sallet' was born to do me good4 ,by the majority1 the name of ,sydney ,smith is held to be almost synonymous with that of salad2 and even though his recipe be widely familiar1 it may not be overlooked in considering the literature of gastronomy3 ,our forte in the culinary line says the witty prelate is our salads2 ,i pique myself on our salads4 ,saba always dresses them after my recipe4 ,i have put it into verse4 ,taste it1 and if you like it ,i will give it you4 ,i was not aware how much it had contributed to my reputation till ,i met ,lady---- at ,bowood1 who begged to be introduced to me1 saying she had so long wished to know me4 ,i was of course highly flattered till she added1 ',for1 ,mr4 ,smith1 ,i have heard so much of your recipe for salads1 that ,i was most anxious to obtain it from you4' ,such and so various are the sources of fame4 ,to make this condiment your poet begs ,the pounded yellow of two hard-boil'd eggs2 ,two boiled potatoes1 pass'd through kitchen sieve1 ,smoothness and softness to the salad give4 ,let onion atoms lurk within the bowl1 ,and1 scarce suspected1 animate the whole4 ,of mordant mustard add a single spoon1 ,distrust the condiment that bites so soon2 ,but deem it not1 thou man of herbs1 a fault ,to add a double quantity of salt4 ,four times the spoon with oil from ,lucca crown1 ,and twice with vinegar procured from town2 ,and1 lastly1 o'er the flavour'd compound toss ,a magic soupon of anchovy sauce4 ,oh1 green and glorious6 ,oh1 herbaceous treat6 ',twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat2 ,back to the world he'd turn his fleeting soul1 ,and plunge his fingers in the salad bowl4 ,serenely full1 the epicure would say1 ',fate cannot harm me1 ,i have dined to-day4' ,this is the original and more familiar ,a ,recipe for ,salad1 as given by the author's daughter1 ,lady ,holland1 in her ,memoir--a recipe that was subsequently placed by the gifted divine in somewhat altered form1 slightly abridged1 and the quantity of the ingredients in one or two instances slightly changed4 ,in the variant it will be seen that the portions of potato and anchovy were increased and the relative quantities of oil and vinegar were amended4#eh ,it is a question whether this celebrated recipe1 so enthusiastically expressed and so tempting to the uninitiated who would naturally be led astray by the climax of the ode1 has done more harm or more good in the important interests of salad-making--whether the evil inculcated in the prescription as a whole has not overbalanced the good results of extolling the virtues of salad itself4 ,the niceties of salad-making are so subtle--so little may make or mar--it were unwise to prescribe either eggs or potato to the inexperienced4 ,the anchovy sauce must1 perforce1 be banished as fatal2 while mashed potatoes should always be used with discretion4 ,in corn-salad a little potato assuredly adds to the unctuousness2 and where lettuce is inclined to be tough or stringy1 it may be advantageously employed4 ,it is likewise eminently useful where the vinegar may have been dealt out too liberally4 ,but with tender1 brittle1 well-blanched cos or endive1 who would think of utilising either egg or potato6 ,and how may mustard be appropriately blended with chicory1 water-cresses1 or radishes1 so rich themselves in pungency8 ,in the employment of condiments one should ever well consider the special greenmeat to be treated1 or what ,montaigne has termed the differences of ,sallets according to their seasons4 ,cayenne1 tabasco1 and garlic are yet more dangerous in unpractised hands1 and may readily1 like the brass of an orchestra run riot1 drown with their dissonance the arpeggio passages and more dulcet notes of the other instruments4 ,all things considered1 the counsels to the little boys and girls in the olden ,french reader1 ,rti-,cochon1 such as the ham of the pig1 well minced1 is good to eat1 but not without drinking1 and fresh eggs and salt herrings are good for ,lent and other days either fat or meagre1 according to one's appetite and the state of the market1 are perchance safer gastronomic guides than the recipe of the worthy ,english prebendary4 ,for in any formula bearing upon the fashioning of salads for the benefit of the many1 it is better to hold strictly to oil1 vinegar1 pepper1 salt1 and onion1 and thus create no confusion in the mind of the tyro1 who should proceed by degrees until he becomes proficient in the art1-- ,and thus1 complete in figure and in kind1 ,obtains at length the salad he designed4 ,but ,sydney ,smith has contributed such a host of good things1 that any slight divergence from orthodoxy in his salad may be freely forgiven4 ,infinitely more baneful than anchovy sauce is the bottled salad-dressing of commerce1 in whatever guise it may appear--that milky1 mysterious compound which is set upon certain restaurant and hotel tables1 and through the cajoleries of the merchant-grocer or blandishments of the advertiser often even invades otherwise respectable households4 ,as for the abominations that so frequently masquerade as pure olive-oil1 and boldly flaunt themselves as wine vinegar in many hostelries1 they are too dreadful to consider2 and one's only recourse is to order them off1 with the catsup1 pepper-sauce1 sour pickles1 and other incongruities of good cheer1 and subsist in imagination on the salads that have been4 ,if oil has been termed the soul of a salad1 it is no less true that vinegar is its vivendi caus4 ,there should be no trouble in procuring excellent virgin olive-oil1 ,french or ,italian1 at a moderate price4 ,it should be bright and limpid1 and possess a delicate1 not a strong flavour of the olive from the first gentle pressing of the slightly underripe fruit4 ,the juice expressed by heavy crushing of overripe fruit is to be avoided1 being dark in colour and possessed of a strong taste4 ,no other product1 however refined or clarified1 or however vaunted in the interests of trade1 can take the place of olive-oil4 ,for those who are indifferent to quality1 cottonseed oil1 as well as the juices of countless other seeds1 will continue to be supplied or used as adulterants in connection with olive-oil4 ,good oil1 like good wine1 is a gift from the gods4 ,the grape and the olive are among the priceless benefactions of the soil1 and were destined1 each in its way1 to promote the welfare of man4 ,it is even more rare to find good vinegar than good oil or wine on the average hotel1 restaurant1 or household table4 ,pure cider or sound wine vinegar should alone be employed1 and this is best obtained by making it one's self and not trusting to the labels and brands of commerce4 ,the best wine vinegar is that made from red ,bordeaux or red or white ,burgundy2 the best cider vinegar being the product of fine1 selected apples like the ,russet or ,northern ,spy1 with absolute cleanliness in manufacture4 ,the liquid should draw clear and be possessed of a fresh vinous fragrance2 and no other material should be mixed with it than what is necessary of the same kind for replenishing the barrel4 ,where vinegar is excessively sharp1 it may be corrected1 when using1 by the addition of a little ,bordeaux wine4 ,lemon juice is an excellent substitute for vinegar where this may be lacking in quality2 and by some is preferred in the dressing of delicate salads like cos and lettuce4 ,the use of tarragon vinegar is extremely unadvisable in company dinners4 ,to many it is very disagreeable2 and even to those who might not be averse to it occasionally1 its frequent abuse causes them to anathematise instead of bless the architect of the salad4 ,as regards pepper1 the adulterated powdered article is far superior to the genuine ,piper nigrum2 the white pepper being the same condiment freed from its outer husk by maceration in water and subsequent rubbing4 ,the genuine black peppercorn is much too spicy and high-flavoured to enter largely as a salad component2 and where it is laboriously ground out from a mill at table1 as is often the case1--the host preoccupied with the task where he should be considering the sequence and temperature of his wines1--it is always coarse2 while its pronounced resemblance to allspice mars the delicacy which is the charm of a salad4 ,moreover1 the energy which should be expended upon the mixing1 where the nature of the salad renders it advisable to be made just before serving1 is largely spent upon the exacting process of turning the box-wood mill4#ei ,the difference between a perfect salad and one that has failed is immense1 says the observant ,baron ,brisse4 ,it must be remembered that in salad-making many forms of the crude material may not be prepared to advantage immediately before serving4 ,among such may be included corn-salad1 dandelion1 curled endive1 cabbage1 and all species of lettuce1 endive1 or chicory that may be in the least coriaceous4 ,these require to be prepared a considerable period before using and to be thoroughly mixed1 even to pressing them with the fork and spoon1 in order that the dressing may be partly absorbed by the leaves to render them tender4 ,the same rule will apply to all species in which the bitter element is pronounced4 ,thorough mixing should never be neglected4 ,the bowl should be ample1 the material dry and freshly plucked1 and the onion1 chives1 parsley1 celery1 or whatever herbs are employed should not be chopped until just before they are required4 ,above all1 a salad1 like white wine1 should be served cold4 ,the too frequent latter-day custom of creating a separate course of salad and cheese1 in order to prolong the number of courses1 is incongruous4 ,the salad belongs to the roast1 and it should not be called upon to perform the service of a separate bridge between this and the sweets4 ,the mission of the salad is to correct the too liberal ingestion of rich and fatty substances1 to prepare for the dessert1 to stimulate and divert the taste1 and to promote stomachic harmony at a time when the appetite has begun to flag and the palate is impatient of a long delay between the roast and the demi-tasse4 ,it is next to impossible1 as has already been remarked1 to give absolute directions for the compounding of a salad1 so far as the precise amount of each component is concerned1 some exacting more oil and salt1 some more vinegar and pepper than others--the acidity of vinegar withal being an extremely variable quantity4 ,some are enhanced by mustard or red pepper1 and with some the pounded yellow of the egg and mashed potato are improvements4 ,the place of the salad1 too1 requires to be considered--whether it is to be an accompaniment of the roast or is designed as something more substantial for the luncheon or supper-table4 ,in the latter case a macdoine of freshly cooked vegetables composed of beets1 potatoes1 turnips1 carrots1 parsnips1 ,lima beans1 cauliflower1 celery-turnip1 etc41 might be excellent1 whereas it would hardly prove appropriate with roast game at the dinner4 ,after all1--to revert to formulas1--the best recipe for a salad1 perhaps1 is the oft-quoted ,spanish proverb which calls for a quartet to compose it--a spendthrift for oil1 a miser for vinegar1 a counsellor for salt1 and a madman for mixing4 ,an excellent addition to nearly any form of salad is chopped onion1 parsley1 and celery4 ,some onion1 however small a quantity1 is invariably required1 unless chives be used instead1 or the bowl be rubbed with garlic1 or bread rubbed with garlic be stirred in1 for those who may prefer4 ,of the several modes of mixing salads1 each of which is extolled by different authorities1 some may be better than others1 but all are good1 as a philosopher has observed with respect to the merits of whiskey4 ,and of these different methods1 again a distinction needs to be made according to the material4 ,once more it may be said1 plus a change1 plus c'est la mme chose1 and that alone through practice and intelligent study of the perspective of blending may the art of salad-making be mastered4 ,as simple and as good a so-termed ,french dressing as any for general use is to add to the minced onion the requisite quantity of salt1 letting this stand for five or ten minutes2 then1 after adding to this the proper quantity of oil1 vinegar1 and pepper1 stir thoroughly and pour over the salad4 ,if ,english mustard is required1 this should be previously incorporated with the oil4 ,the result still depends upon the fine adjustment of the ingredients1 the mixing1 and the quality and character of the material4 ,another method is to mix the salt and mustard1 where mustard may be employed1 with the oil1 incorporating them by degrees1 then adding the vinegar2 pepper the salad material separately1 and lastly pour on and mix in the dressing thoroughly4 ,separate peppering of the leaves1 however1 possesses no advantage2 on the contrary1 it is more trying to the eyes1 and the pepper is much less evenly distributed4 ,a third method consists in placing the necessary salt and pepper in the salad-spoon1 then pouring the vinegar into the spoon and stirring with the fork until the salt and pepper become well amalgamated with the vinegar4 ,this is subsequently to be well mixed with the salad material1 on which chopped onion and herbs have been placed1 vigorously agitated1 and afterwards1 when the oil has been added1 mixed a second time4 ,by the jewelled white fingers of a pretty and well-gowned hostess who has a knack at salad-making this formula may be executed at table with highly artistic results4 ,there is finally the plan adopted by ,chaptal1 which consists in saturating and mixing the salad material with oil1 seasoned with pepper and salt1 before employing the vinegar4 ,by this treatment the salad can never become too acid1 for should the vinegar happen to be excessive1 it slips over the oil to the bottom of the bowl4 ,this means1 while advantageous for tender cos or lettuce1 is not so desirable for any material that may have a tendency to toughness1 as the vinegar may not as readily penetrate and soften the leaves4 ,good oil1 vinegar1 and pepper and careful incorporating of the ingredients1 with a judicious use of herbs1 and the tact born of experience1 count for everything in the preparation of salads4 ,mayonnaise dressing of course belongs to certain greenmeat salads1 as well as the so-called ,french dressing--the most easily prepared and wholesome of all4 ,the mayonnaise is especially favoured by femininity1 and the ,french dressing by the sterner sex2 though for meat salads1 as a general rule1 the mayonnaise1 mayonnaise la ravigotte1 or sauce provenale is prescriptive4 ,growing salad is an art of the kitchen-garden1 in which soil1 selection of varieties1 watering1 shading1 blanching1 and protection have their part4 ,but with a little space and care1 salads may be had by almost every one during the greater portion of the year4 ,for late autumn and winter use1 the different varieties of endive1 corn-salad1 and chicory are easily raised3 corn-salad requiring no other trouble than two or three sowings in ,august1 a little attention in watering and shading1 and the gathering of the hardy green tufts beneath the snow4 ,late endive calls for a dry1 well-protected root-house1 while chicory needs to be taken up by the roots and forced in boxes in the cellar1 due attention being paid to excluding the light4 ,of this excellent winter salad1 the comparatively new variety ,witloof1 largely grown in ,belgium for the ,paris market1 is an improvement on the old ,barbe de ,capucin4 ,of late years the useful and easily grown1 broad-leaved ,batavian endive has deteriorated1 having become coarser-grained and often recalling the cabbage in flavour4 ,cos is the most difficult of all salads to grow under our tropical summer sun1 and unless well grown--brittle1 blanched1 and free from bitterness--it is next to worthless4 ,many good varieties of lettuce have a tendency to run out1 and these should be carefully watched by the gardener4 ,on the restaurant cards salads usually appear with their ,french appellations1 which are sometimes confusing4 ,in ,france1 for instance1 chicory is generally termed endive1 and endive is termed chicory4 ,lettuce is naturally laitue1 cos being known as romaine1 broad-leaved ,batavian endive as escarolle--the curled-leaved varieties of endive being familiar as chicore frise4 ,corn-salad is the mche or doucette1 chicory is the ,barbe de ,capucin1 though the variety ,witloof passes current as endive4 ,there is nothing mysterious1 therefore1 as some suppose1 in ,french salads and ,french names of salads beyond the fact that in restaurants of the higher class special attention is paid to procure the best possible material from skilled market-gardeners1 and the dressing is supposed to be performed by a competent practitioner who has the best of condiments at command4 ,the field is never wholly void of cypress and tulip1 saith a ghazel of ,hafiz2 one goeth1 but another yet appeareth in its place4 ,it is much the same with the successive profusion of sallets4 ,by way of variety1 a salad of raw celery-root with a mayonnaise dressing1 somewhat thinned1 in which a generous amount of mustard has been blended1 affords a pleasing distinction from celery in the usual form and the green material which constantly offers itself2 as does also an occasional salad of the scarcer celery-turnip1 beloved by ,europeans4 ,sliced radishes1 and young green onions from the garden1 as an accompaniment to the first trout or shad1 need no apology4 ,the appetising but indigestible and flatulent ,german black radish is not to be recommended1 although one may retain the most grateful recollections of the potato1 cucumber1 and herring salads of the ,fatherland4 ,spain has always borne a reputation for its salads in inverse ratio to that of its cookery2 and if one is fond of pepper and peppers1 green or red1 as well as garlic1 the ,spanish salad1 whether of tomato1 cucumber1 beans1 potato1 or lettuce1 is to be commended4 ,the ,italian may be relied upon never to neglect garlic wherever any excuse for utilising it is presented2 but the ,spaniard1 in addition1 deems it a heresy if the live pepper does not sting1 stimulate1 and permeate4 ,for the highest expression of the potato-salad--and the cucumber-salad should be equally included--we must go to the ,germans1 masters of sausage-and cake-making and everything appertaining to ,compots4 ,however one may regard the ,pumpernickel and the ,maitrank1 the specialties just enumerated must challenge our respect and admiration4 ,potato-salad is particularly appropriate with beer2 and it is1 therefore1 natural that the home of ,mnchner and ,nrnberger should excel in its preparation4 ,in making a potato-salad1 the ,teuton for once forgets the caraway seed and substitutes the onion4 ,in all the restaurants1 ,wirthschafts1 and beer-gardens where the hungry and the thirsty throng1 great bowls of it1 dusted with the fresh greens of finely minced herbs1 always stand ready for immediate use4 ,it is served separately and employed with many other dishes--a chain of russet sausages may surround it1 or it may inclose a mound of cheese1 ham1 or caviare4 ,in some form it is ever present4 ,like ,montgomery's daisy1-- ,it smiles upon the lap of ,may1 ,to sultry ,august spreads its charm1 ,lights pale ,october on his way1 ,and twines ,december's arm4 ,to attain the best results1 young potatoes of a firm kind1 with no tendency to mealiness1 known as salad-potatoes1 are chosen1 boiled in salt water1 allowed to cool1 and then sliced and seasoned while they are fresh4 ,potato-salad may be combined with numerous esculents2 and of its complementary adjuncts1 none blend better with it than corn-salad and watercress4 ,deprived of the cucumber1 the list of salads were equally shorn of one of its most useful and appreciated members4 ,and whether1 as ,gerarde affirms1 that of the divers sorts--some greater1 some lesser1 some of the garden1 some wilde1 some of one fashion1 and some of another--all of the cucumbers are of temperature cold and moist of the second degree1 and yield unto the body a cold nourishment1 and that very little and the same not good--who would consent for a moment to have the cucumber eliminated from the list of edibles6 ,think of its hidden ,vertues6 ,it openeth and clenseth1 openeth the stoppings of the liver1 helpeth the chest and lungs that are inflamed2 and being stamped and outwardly applied instead of a denser1 it maketh the skin smooth and faire4 ,no wonder it was such a favourite with ,tiberius1 who was never without it1 and had frames made upon wheels1 by means of which the growing fruit might be moved and exposed to the full heat of the sun2 while in winter they were withdrawn and placed under the protection of frames glazed with mirror-stone4 ,no wonder that ,isaiah1 in speaking of the desolation of ,judah1 declared3 ,the daughter of ,zion is left as a cottage in a vineyard1 as a lodge in a garden of cucumbers4 ,the main point with the cucumber is to eliminate the prussic acid it contains1 by slicing it and soaking it in ice-water and salt for a short time before using4 ,then1 the ,hock6--the shad1 the whitefish1 the pompano1 the turbot1 the sole6 ,and when endive is nicely blanched1 and the first dark-blue double violets appear in the greenhouse--though skies lower and the storm frown without--what in the varied round of the seasons presents itself more delicious than a blue-violet salad1 with a flask of some noble vintage worthy to bear it company6 ,the recipe1 which cannot be too widely known1 has been presented at length in a previous volume3#fj ,there was a great bunch of double violets on the table1 the lovely dark variety 7,viola odoratissima flore pleno7 with their short stems1 freshly plucked from the garden1 and the room was scented by their delicious breath4 ,a bowl of broad-leaved ,batavian endive1 blanched to a nicety and alluring as a siren's smile1 was placed upon the table4 ,i almost fancied it was smiling at the violets4 ,a blue-violet salad1 by all means6 there are violets and to spare4 ,on a separate dish there was a little minced celery1 parsley1 and chives4 ,four heaped salad-spoonfuls of olive-oil were poured upon the herbs1 with a dessertspoonful of white wine vinegar1 the necessary salt and white pepper1 and a tablespoonful of ,bordeaux4 ,the petals of two dozen violets were detached from their stems1 and two thirds of them were incorporated with the dressing4 ,the dressing being thoroughly mixed with the endive1 the remaining flower petals were sprinkled over the salad and a half-dozen whole violets placed in the centre4 ,the lovely blue sapphires glowed upon the white bosom of the endive4 ,a white-labelled bottle1 capsuled ,yquem1 and the cork branded ',lur ,saluces1' was served with the salad4 ,you note the subtle aroma of pineapple and fragrance of flower ottos with the detonation of the cork--the grand vintages of ,yquem have a pronounced ,ananassa flavour and bouquet that steeps the palate with its richness and scents the surrounding atmosphere4 ,now try your blue-violet salad4 ,is it fragrant8 is it cool8 is it delicious8 is it divine8 ,the deep-golden1 marrowy ,yquem1 crme1 of #ahfa and #ahfd is now alas6 unobtainable2 and even were it to be procured1 it must ere this have parted with much of its marvellous bouquet and sve4 ,but the violet yet sheds its colour and distils its perfume for the gathering4 ,other vintages1 too1 have been pressed and have mellowed along the classic banks of the ,ciron and the ,rhein1 that may worthily accentuate the violet and endive as the crown of the repast4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,sweets ,,to ,,the ,,sweet ,jam jam efficaci do manus scienti4#fa ,,horace4 ,epode xvii4 #a4 ,however scholiasts may have interpreted ,horace's line1--and by no two is it interpreted alike1--the repetition or intensification of the first word in connection with the thought that follows must certainly carry conviction to the gastronomer that no mere stress upon a common adverb was intended1 but rather a definite allusion to some particular object4 ,the more the sentence is analysed1 the greater seems the emphasis laid upon the power of sweets to attract and charm4 ,apart1 moreover1 from the iteration of the subject extolled1 one is impressed by the force of the expression do manus1 which means here1 not1 as one would suspect1 to shake hands2 but ,i yield1 ,i surrender1 ,i throw up my hands--the strongest form of complete capitulation4 ,and when it is further considered that one who was so careful in his advice and hygienic precepts1 as well as so dainty in epithet 7curiosa felicitas71 has expressed his love for an entremets sucr in such emphatic terms1 it should be conceded that woman is justified in her predilection for the final course of the dinner1 which man is apt to decry4 ,the question of dessert1 indeed1 is only another instance of where a man thinks he knows1 but a woman knows better4 ,illustration3 ,,apr,s ,,bon ,,vin ,from the engraving by ,eisen in ,fermiers-,gnreaux edition of the ,contes et ,nouvelles 7#agfb7 ,le dessert est tout le dner pour une jolie femme4 ,let her enjoy it and the sweet champagne or ,muscat-,lunel that goes with it1 even if to her opposite things sweet to taste prove in digestion sour4 ,for1 after all1 it is unquestionably to woman that we must look for the improvement of cookery4 ,the highest art will still find its expression through the professional chef2 the useful1 the daily alimentation of the household1 must depend upon the ministrations of the housewife and her capacity for extending and improving the list of dishes la bonne femme4 ,assuredly1 appetising cookery will tend more than any other means to maintain the masculine element in good humour1 and thereby foster a spirit of liberality and the condoning of feminine foibles4 ,the dessert is said to be to the dinner what the madrigal is to literature--it is the light poetry of the kitchen1 addressed largely to the gentler sex4 ,to the finer fancy of woman1 the many forms of dainties which figure in the last course are mainly due2 and that they are not more appreciated by man is no doubt owing to the fact that the consumption of tobacco and the use of ardent spirits have blunted his perceptivity in this respect4 ,herein he is the loser2 the mission of the dessert being that of a comforter of the stomach1 which1 already appeased1 nevertheless craves a little reflex flattery through the palate4 ,there are those of the sterner sex1 notwithstanding1 who still preserve the sweet tooth of childhood1 and others who enjoy pastry equally with its most devoted feminine admirers4 ,charles ,lamb held that a man cannot have a pure mind who refuses apple-dumplings4 ,tasso was so fond of sweetmeats that he even ate his salad with sugar4 ,henry ,,viii presented a manor to the inventor of a new pudding-sauce4 ,goethe adored sweet champagne1 and of ,horace's partiality for sweets he has doubly assured us4 ,for all such the cook whose pies are perfect will not have lived in vain2 the more so as the artist in pie-making is usually an adept at frying1--and to bad frying and poor pie-making may be charged much of the misery inflicted upon mankind where eating is regarded solely as a necessary function4 ,a cook1 moreover1 who can make fine puff-paste is more apt to succeed in all the more substantial parts of the art4 ,so that to encourage the dessert and sweetmeats is to beguile and conciliate woman1 and thus indirectly promote progress in other branches of cookery4 ,with a little tact and perseverance it becomes relatively easy to persuade her that her fondness for sweets is injurious to her complexion2 and this much instilled1 it is the less difficult to lead her by gradual steps to the perfection of the entre and dishes more favoured by man4 ,there are comparatively few1 nevertheless1 who really are averse to the dessert if it unite all the qualities that should compose the final course--if it be light and palatable1 if it flatter the eye1 and if it convey the greatest amount of pleasure to the taste with little sense of fulness4 ,good pies or puddings and various entremets de douceur are as much a feature of the well-appointed dinner as a well-made salad2 and all have their part to perform4 ,coming last in the order of the repast1 like the peroration of a discourse1 they should receive more than ordinary attention1 both with respect to their immediate impression and the sensation they leave4 ,to the dessert is often unjustly attributed a consequent that really belongs to the reprehensible practice of serving brut champagne at the end of the dinner1 whereby digestion is seriously disturbed through the acidity it necessarily provokes4 ,already pernicious during the early stages1 it becomes still more baneful when appetite has palled4 ,the lamb thus must answer for the crime of the wolf2 and woman is held responsible for what is directly the fault of man himself4 ,if a sparkling wine must be served at the end of a dinner1 to the exclusion of the early portion1 let it partake of the nature of the dainties themselves1 in order that it may leave the most dulcet souvenirs4 ,but1 apart from the dessert1 sweets enter into many forms of aliments that lend variety and distinction to the table4 ,who is so wedded to acidity as not to hail with renewed pleasure the appearance of a rum omelette1 or that entremets par excellence--omelette aux confitures--if served by a pretty woman at a dinner of two and accompanied by a ,rhein ,auslese of noble growth8 ,the souffle1 too1 has its charms1 if woman be present1 for which one should always be grateful4 ,what were the turkey without cranberry sauce1 in which sugar forms a component1 or a mallard without currant-jelly to match the rosy richness of his breast8 ,but in lieu of this universal accessory to many forms of game1 a pleasing variety may be had if a lesson be only taken from the ,germans1 with whom the ,compot is so highly esteemed in various guises and various grades of sweetness4 ,of such1 one of the most delicious is composed of strawberries and sour cherries in combination1 flavoured with ,kirsch4 ,an exquisite preserve of southern ,germany is the ,hagenmark1 which one sees in brimming pails in the market-places during ,november3 a conserve prepared by the peasant women from the hips of the wild dog-rose1 as vivid in colour as a cardinal by ,vibert4 ,as for the strawberry1 so fragrant and delicious when fresh1 but so deadly to the uric-acid diathesis1 how safely it may be partaken of when1 through madame's deft manipulations1 it attains the form of shortcake or preserves6 ,served with sugar and cream1 after baking1 as a prelude to the winter breakfast1 even the flatulence of the apple is dissipated and the fruit which tempted ,eve becomes innocuous4 ,through sugar and stewing1 the currant loses its verjuice1 the raspberry under similar treatment is transformed1 the acrid quince acquires new virtues1 the puckery crab-apple diffuses a silken softness4 ,cooked with sugar and brandy1 the peach may appeal to the most hardened total abstainer1 and the fruit of the ,psidium1 through the magic touch of saccharine1 attain a magnificent triumph as guava jelly4 ,to remove sugar from the kitchen were to deprive alimentation of many of its benefits and pleasures1 as well as to rob woman of much of her allurement4 ,she would become lean and scrawny1 her rounded outlines would gradually disappear1 the contours of her tailor-made gown would end by becoming rectilinear1 and for her habiliment a strait-jacket would usurp the place of her proud corsage and bouffant petticoat4 ,there would then be no more love-poetry1 for there would exist no incentive for the poet1 nor could a pretty heroine figure in a novel1 or the bust of woman prove the most convincing illustration that the line of beauty is a curve4 ,one should never lose sight of that excellent sentiment of ,blaze de ,bury1 which will apply to desserts as well1 ,qui ne veut point vieillir doit aimer les femmes1 et1 pour bien les aimer1 il faut les aimer toutes4 ,what a wave of grateful coolness the ice and its yet more seductive sister1 ice-cream1 contribute when the dog-star reigns and cicadas have begun to shrill6 ,who among the calumniators of sweets could wish them banished in support of a fallacious theory that sweetmeats render woman more capricious1 and are injurious to the roses and lilies of her skin8 ,for the plainer form of these refreshing entremets we are indebted to ,catherine de' ,medici and her cooks who accompanied her to ,france from ,italy1 where ices were already much esteemed4 ,the discoverer of ice-cream is said to be a ,french chef in the employ of the ,duc de ,chartres1 who exultingly set the dish before him on a hot day in #aggd4 ,this was subsequent to the discovery of the pt de ,chartres1 which1 according to ,anatole ,france1 is of itself sufficient to make one revere the country of its origin4 ,about this period the baba1 beloved by the fair sex1 met with great favour in ,france4 ,the baba was the invention of ,king ,stanislas ,leszcynski of ,poland1 a noted epicure1 to make amends for the harshness of his name2 its ingredients being ,german yeast1 flour1 butter1 eggs1 cream1 sugar1 saffron1 candied citron1 ,corinthian raisins1 currants1 and ,madeira1 ,malaga1 or rum4 ,it is said to be a difficult entremets to seize1 so as to preserve its attractive reddish colour1 which should recall a late ,october afterglow4 ,it at once appealed to the sweet tooth of femininity1 even though that most delectable of garden herbs1 angelica1 when candied1 was overlooked among the sweet ingredients4 ,like the truffle as described by ,savarin1 the baba was supposed to render woman more plastic and man more expansive1--rien que le voir1 les yeux rient et les curs chantent4 ,the date of the introduction of plum-pudding and mince-pie is difficult to ascertain4 ,as early as #adbd appears a mention in an ,english bill of fare of ,vyaunt ardent1 which suggests the former and may have been its precursor4 ,the original recipe of either must have been formidable to follow when one reflects how even now they are provocative of a nightmare1 unless executed by the deftest of hands4 ,plum-pudding in anything like its present form does not appear in cookery books anterior to #afge4 ,previous to this1 plum-porridge1 which always served as a first course at ,christmas1 was prepared by boiling beef or mutton with broth thickened by brown bread4 ,when half cooked1 raisins1 currants1 prunes1 cloves1 nutmeg1 mace1 ginger1 and other condiments were added1 and after the mixture had been thoroughly boiled it was served with meats--a dish fit for the digestive capacities of ,jack the ,giant-killer4 ,an essentially ,english product1 the plum-pudding has rarely found favour in ,france1 although ,louis ,,xviii was accustomed to serve it at ,christmas1 and it has long had a place on the menus of many ,parisian restaurants4 ,a very elaborate recipe for ,plumbuting is given by ,beauvilliers2 but preferable to all formulas is the comparatively simple one of ,blot1 a dish which may be digested as well as enjoyed1 and which is within the range of the average cook4 ,of course plum-pudding is best during the holiday season1 and best of all at the feast of ,christmas day4 ,mince-pie is an ancient ,english dish which ,america has refined4 ,the ,year-,book of ,william ,hone of the early part of the past century contains an extended ,ode to the ,mince-,pye1 which met the approbation of ,scott1 ,lamb1 and ,southey4 ,in this it is referred to as the ,king of ,cates1 whose pastry-bounded reign ,is felt and own'd o'er pastry's wide domain3 ,whom greater gluttons own their sovereign lord ,than ever bowed beneath the dubbing sword4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,like ,albion's rich plum-pudding1 famous grown1 ,the mince-pye reigns in realms beyond his own1 ,through foreign latitudes his power extends1 ,and only terminates where eating ends4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,sovereign of ,cates1 all hail6 nor then refuse ,this cordial off'ring from an ,english muse1 ,who pours the brandy in libation free1 ,and finds plum-pudding realiz'd in thee4 ,but of all forms of pie1 that with the apple for its basis is doubtless the most wholesome and by the majority is most relished4 ,a woman who is infallible in her apple-pies and successful with her sauces deserves an annual trip abroad4 ,but such1 like first editions of ,the ,faerie ,queene1 are rare4 ,no better instructions regarding the fashioning of apple-pies can be formulated than those of the late ,henry ,ward ,beecher1 who so thoroughly understood women1 gems1 sweetmeats1 and gardening4 ,his counsels are worthy of ,elia1 and the housewife should commit them to memory3 ,there is1 for example1 one made without undercrust1 in a deep plate1 and the apples laid in full quarters2 or the apples1 being stewed1 are beaten to a mush and seasoned and put between the double paste2 or they are sliced thin and cooked entirely within the covers2 or they are put without seasoning into their bed1 and when baked the upper lid is raised and the butter1 nutmeg1 cinnamon1 and sugar are added1 the whole well mixed and the crust returned as if nothing had happened4 ,but1 oh6 be careful of the paste6 ,let it be not like putty1 nor rush to the other extreme and make it so flaky that one holds his breath while eating1 for fear of blowing it away4 ,let it not be plain as bread1 nor yet rich like cake4 ,aim at that glorious medium in which it is tender without being too fugaciously flaky2 short without being too short2 a mild1 sapid1 brittle thing1 that lies upon the tongue1 so as to let the apple strike through and touch the papill with a more affluent flavour4 ,but this1 like all high art1 must be a thing of inspiration or instinct4 ,a true cook will understand us1 and we care not if others do not6 ,do not suppose that we limit the apple-pie to the kinds and methods enumerated4 ,its capacity in variation is endless1 and every diversity discovers some new charm or flavour4 ,it will accept almost every flavour of every spice4 ,and yet nothing is so fatal to the rare and higher graces of apple-pie as inconsiderate1 vulgar spicing4 ,it is not meant to be a mere vehicle for the exhibition of these spices in their own natures2 it is a glorious unity in which sugar gives up its nature as sugar1 and butter ceases to be butter1 and each flavoursome spice gladly vanishes from its own full nature1 that all of them1 by a common death1 may rise into the new life of apple-pie4 ,not that apple is longer apple4 ,it1 too1 is transformed2 and the final pie1 though born of apple1 sugar1 butter1 nutmeg1 cinnamon1 lemon1 is like none of these1 but the compound ideal of them all1 refined1 purified1 and by fire fixed in blissful perfection4 ,do you eat pie8 was once asked of ,emerson4 ,what is pie for8 was the ready and philosophic reply4 ,pie1 often foolishly abused1 said ,artemus ,ward1 is a good creature at the right time and in angles of thirty or forty degrees1 although in semicircles and quadrants it may sometimes prove too much for delicate stomachs4 ,but think of the pies of two centuries ago6 ,to appreciate the improvement which has taken place in the dessert and the preparation of sweet entremets1 one has only to refer to ,mrs4 ,glasse or contemporaneous and previous treatises on cookery4 ,one marvels equally at the strange recipes1 the assimilative prowess of the dames of yore1 and the progress of the centuries4 ,canon ,barham1 who never fails to introduce his bills of fare1 though these may not always be strictly reliable from the point of view of the times and the manner of the service1 presents this in ,the ,lay of ,st4 ,romwold as the termination of an olden feast3 ,then came 'sweets'--served in silver were tartlets and pies in glass1 ,jellies composed of punch1 calves' feet1 and isinglass1 ,creams and whipt-syllabubs1 some hot1 some cool1 ,blancmange1 and quince-custards1 and goosberry-fool4 ,this was long before the dessert proper--from the ,french desservir1 to clear the table--became an established course of the dinner2 and when the sweetened dishes of eld might scarcely figure under the pretty ,italian title of ,giardinetto1 or little garden1 sometimes applied to the dessert1 and suggestive of all that is fragrant and ambrosial4 ,while there is no reason for supposing that sweet champagne was not as greatly relished by the women of ,colonial times as it is to-day1 it is true1 notwithstanding1 that1 owing to the greater need of economy1 they were obliged to be content for the most part with saccharine tipples of a less expensive nature4 ,among such1 besides mulled wine1 was the sack-posset1 a favourite drink at weddings and social festivities1 borrowed from ,england1 with its numerous ingredients1 and favoured alike by miss and matron4 ,the recipe in rhyme for this concoction1 after ,sir ,fleetwood ,fletcher1 soon became as familiar as ,sydney ,smith's recipe for salad in the following century3 ,a recipe for all ,young ,ladies that are going to be ,married4 ,to make a ,sack-,posset3 ,from famed ,barbadoes on the ,western ,main ,fetch sugar half a pound2 fetch ,sack from ,spain ,a pint2 and from the ,eastern ,indian ,coast ,nutmeg1 the glory of our ,northern toast2 ,o'er flaming coals together let them heat ,till the all-conquering ,sack dissolves the sweet4 ,o'er such another fire set eggs1 twice ten ,new born from crowing cock and speckled hen2 ,stir them with steady hand1 and conscience pricking ,to see the untimely fate of twenty chicken4 ,from shining shelf take down your brazen skillet1 ,a quart of milk from gentle cow will fill it2 ,when boiled and cooked put milk and ,sack to egg1 ,unite them firmly like the triple league4 ,then1 covered close1 together let them dwell ,till ,miss twice sings1 ',you must not kiss and tell6' ,each lad and lass snatch up their murdering spoon1 ,and fall on fiercely like a starved dragoon4 ,metheglin and negus were well known to our foremothers4 ,there is no record to show that they became partial to sack1 except as sweetened and spiced according to the manner of posset4 ,it is recorded1 however1 that1 eschewing the stronger punch composed of spirits1 they were fond of mulled wine1 ,malaga and ,madeira1 and were far from disdaining the universal beverage1 cider1 even in its hard form1 when mulled4 ,cheese is naturally an obligatory portion of the dessert at all company dinners--at least at all dinners where men are present4 ,by dint of persuasion1 it has become tolerated by women1 not a few of whom regard it with favour if ,rocquefort or ,gorgonzola is in question1 or even ,camembert or ,brie when perfectly fresh4 ,its place in the order of the dinner is a matter somewhat in dispute4 ,it figures variously after the roast1--as its successor before the sweets1 or as the immediate precursor of the demi-tasse1--and it is also asked to do duty with the salad by some who elect to serve the salad as a course apart to succeed the roast4 ,on the continent of ,europe it is generally supposed to precede the coffee1 after the sweets1 and be ready for those who may not care for them2 in ,england it is often served with celery before the dessert4 ,the custom of serving it with the salad1 which is purely ,american1 is certainly not to be commended4 ,the mission of cheese is twofold--to change the taste and to act as the concluding digestive4 ,to subserve the latter purpose it should be old1 if of a fine-grained kind2 and as a digestive few such are equal to ,rocquefort4 ,as to its proper place at dessert1 it must be recognized that it accords best with the coffee and final glass of port or other dessert wine where these may be employed1 and leaves the taste fresher when it concludes the repast4 ,let appropriate sweets be served with it for those who desire them1 but let it not destroy the salad which belongs to the roast1 or anticipate the dulcitudes of the final course4 ,a chapter might be devoted to this suave product of the dairy1 but it will be sufficient to present a form of serving it that will appeal to many1 inclusive of woman4 ,like the fondue1 it is of ,swiss origin4 ,in ,switzerland1 where cheese figures largely1 there is known to the initiated a sweet entremets termed the hunter's sandwich1 composed of bread1 fresh butter1 cheese1 and honey in combination1 its only drawback being the too cloying nature of the honey4 ,in ,america this objection may be happily avoided by employing the nectar of the sugar-maple in its stead1 and the dish prove all the better either for the sportsman out of doors or served at the dinner with the dessert4 ,on fresh bread cut in thin slices for its base1 you will place a layer of the freshest of butter1 then a layer of ,brie or other fresh cream-cheese1 and1 finally1 a gilding of maple-syrup4 ,for the dessert it may be shaped in various ways1 and made as dainty as feminine fingers can devise4 ,its virtues need no panegyric1--it will succeed the ices with as buoyant a grace as the daffodil follows the snowdrop of spring4 ,captivated by its charms1 the epicure will say1 with the van-courier of ,bishop ,fuger in his chase for the ideal wine1 ,est1 est1 est2 while madame and mademoiselle will attach a new significance to the poet's mellifluous lines1-- ,as the last taste of sweets is sweetest last1 ,writ in remembrance more than things long past4 ,with the dessert the dinner ends2 and with it1 also1 properly terminates a review of gastronomy4 ,it may be asked1 however1 after the somewhat extended reference to cooks and cookery and the literature and ethics of the art1 which of the numerous manuals referred to1 or of the countless existing works that have not been enumerated1 is the best and most serviceable for those who would perfect themselves in the subtleties of the range4 ,the question is easier asked than answered4 ,to specify any one authority1 so far as any one writer on cookery may be considered authoritative1 were scarcely satisfactory--a comprehensive answer being dependent to no inconsiderable extent upon the tastes1 adaptabilities1 and qualifications of the person concerned4 ,as there is no one poet1 moreover1 who may satisfy all or even a single individual1 so there is no one author-cook or compiler who has yet compassed the subject4 ,the cuisine1 says ,beauvilliers1 simple in its origin1 refined from century to century1 has become a difficult art1 a complicated science on which many authors have written1 without having been able to embrace it in its entirety4 ,the model cook-book--the manual that should appeal to all1 the vade mecum that would instruct and delight the amateur1 that would tell him just what he should know1 eliminating all he should not know--is still numbered among things unaccomplished4 ,so long as every chef is jealous of his every competitor1 so long as the professionalist writes solely from the standpoint of his elaborately mounted kitchen1 with no deference to the requirements of the more modest household1 so long as works on cookery continue to be a mere dry digest of the preparation of food1 it will not be achieved4 ,they have come nearer to such a work in ,france4 ,but who may say that even ,dumas' sprightly though bulky treatise is perfect1 or that any of the voluminous ',cuisiniers' des ,cuisiniers has indicated the perfect road to happiness8 ,and of the enormous number of books on the subject1 how many are not so technical as to be of little service1 or so lacking in comprehensive grasp as to fall utterly short of their aim8 ,the perfect cook-book1 as near as a cook-book can be perfect1 has yet to find its author and its publisher4 ,illustration3 ,,le ,p,,tissier ,,fran,,ais ,facsimile of title-page ,it may be assumed1 therefore1 that it will be written by an amateur--a man devoid of prejudices so far as any rivalry in his craft is concerned1 whose sole object will be to write for his own pleasure and the gratification it will afford his readers4 ,for1 it will be readily perceived1 a cook-book for the professional is one thing2 a manual for the amateur1 another4 ,to a lucid1 delightful style and grace of expression its author will unite the widest familiarity with the cuisine of the past and the present4 ,he will have at his beck and call a culinary library like that of ,baron ,pichon1 an executive genius equal to ,carme's1 a physiological perceptivity rivalling that of ,savarin1 a knowledge of the subject in all that relates to its material sense as great as ,la ,reynire's4 ,a man of unbounded capacities1 whose appetite can never be appeased1 he will himself have savoured the multitudinous dishes he treats of1 before recommending them to others of less assimilative capabilities than his own4 ,thoroughly conversant with hygiene and the constituent elements of foods1 he will add1 as it were1 to the qualifications of a gourmet and epicurean mentor1 the knowledge of a physician and chemist1 or one who can distinguish the digestive sequents of different articles of diet4 ,he will be a learned nologist as well1 acquainted with the wines of all countries1 their best growths and most desirable vintages2 as also the widely varying effects upon the system of different wines4 ,endowed with perfect physical faculties1 furthered by long intimacy with and daily use of wine1 his sense of taste and smell will have attained the highest possible development1 enabling him to trace and compare the flavours and ethers of different growths2 thus indicating what one should avoid1 as also what one should choose1 according to individual requirements4 ,supplementing his monograph on wines will occur as its natural consequent a profound dissertation on gout1 dealing at length with the true causes of the malady in all its phases1 and indicating a cure within the power of the wine-drinker to compass without abstaining from the beverage he loves4 ,some magical lozenge that is guileless of colchicum1 some marvellous elixir distilled in the alembics of the past1 or some special essence of the vine itself will be prescribed1 to be taken with the dinner1 when the afflicted may once more eat and drink in moderation1 without fear and without reproach4 ,the author will have travelled far and wide1 and will intelligently contribute the spoils of his gastronomic chase1 retrenching from a dish here and elaborating there1 if need be1 as he dispenses his appetising formulas4 ,yet so delicate his taste1 of such discriminating nicety his judgment1 that1 barring individual dislikes for certain aliments1 one may trust implicitly to the form of preparation he prescribes4 ,from the manuscripts of the ancient monks he will have rescued many a simple though priceless dish1 and from ,baudelaire1 ,thodore de ,banville1 and ,jules ,janin have committed many an unpublished poem of the table to his storehouse of delights4 ,and while conversant with all that is best in existing works by the great masters of the art1 as well as the lesser lights of the science1 and quoting freely from them1 he will nevertheless avoid the elaborate recipes and interminable menus that ,gouff and others pride themselves upon1 which require a matre-d'htel to understand1 a corps of assistants to execute1 and a ,crsus to liquidate4 ,spiced with anecdote and seasoned with humour and philosophy1 his chapters will glide on in lucid flow1 and his recipes leave no nightmares behind4 ,his text will be free from grossness1 and be tainted with no worn-out aphorisms2 so clear that all may understand1 and1 understanding1 turn its counsels to practical account4 ,he will be familiar1 as a sportsman1 with game2 and will have contemplated the masterpieces of ,weenix1 ,sneyders1 and ,hondius to impart additional colour in his references to the wild furred and feathered tribes4 ,and to the further embellishment of his text1 he will also have studied the other great pictures of still-life of the old ,dutch and ,flemish schools1--the fowls of ,hondecoeter2 the fruits of ,utrecht and ,de ,heem2 the fishes of ,seghers2 the flower-laden tables of ,van ,huysum and ,jan ,fyt2 the kitchen-pieces beloved by ,metzu and ,zorg2 the eating-bouts of ,brockenburg2 the gay ,kermesse and merrymakings of ,brouwer1 ,teniers1 and ,ostade4 ,nor will his knowledge of the products of the vegetable world1 apart from those employed for food alone1--the spices and condiments that make or mar a dish1 that aid or harm digestion1--be less carefully set forth upon his golden page4 ,the volumes will be small1 so they may be unburdensome to peruse1 as inviting in their letterpress as the daintiest of ,elzevirs4 ,in fine1 a combination of the qualities of the scholar1 the master-cook1 the painter1 the gastronomer1 the sportsman1 and the pantologist1 assisted by the skill of the bookmaker and etcher1 will be required to compose the cook-book par excellence4 ,in the interval1 while it yet slumbers upon the shelves of dreamland1 one must remain satisfied as nearly as may be with the manuals that are already accessible2 and1 like the wind in the trees1 draw a note here and a chord there from the existing strings of the harp of ,good ,cheer4 ,illustration ,,bibliography ,a few among ,english1 ,american1 and ,french works1 both ancient and modern1 that relate to gastronomy and cookery are presented herewith4 ,as may be perceived at a glance1 the list is not intended to be comprehensive1 so multitudinous are the monographs relating to the subject1 but a mere index or signboard pointing to the nature of the vast and varied literature1 both good1 bad1 and indifferent1 that the topic has inspired4 ,works relating strictly to wines and alcoholic beverages have not been included1 as these1 though intimately connected with the table1 belong more properly to a volume on the cellar itself4 ,it will be observed that works by women predominate in the ,english language1 whereas1 in ,french1 masculinity for the greater part has superintended the larder and the saucepans and elaborated the literature of the art4 ,the scholar who is especially interested in the bibliography of gastronomy may be referred to the valuable work of ,m4 ,georges ,vicaire as the most comprehensive on the theme1 particularly so far as foreign contributions to epulary literature are concerned4 ,evelyn 7,john74 ,,acetaria3 ,a ,,discourse ,,of ,,sallets1 #agjf4 7#hvo47 ,,the ,,american ,,salad-,,book4 ,by ,maximilian ,de ,loup4 ,second ,edition4 ,new ,york3 ,mc,clure1 ,phillips ,co41 #aijj4 7#hvo47 pp4 #add4 ,warner 7,rev4 ,richard74 ,,antiquitates ,,culinari2 ,,or1 ,,curious ,,tracts ,,relating ,,to ,,the ,,culinary ,,affairs ,,of ,,the ,,old ,,english4 ,london3 ,printed for ,r4 ,blamire1 #agia4 7#dto7 pp4 #acg4 ,,apician ,,morsels2 ,,or1 ,,tales ,,of ,,the ,,table1 ,,kitchen1 ,,and ,,larder4 ,by ,dick ,humelbergius ,secundus4 ,new ,york3 ,j4 ,j4 ,harper1 #ahbi4 7#hvo7 pp4 #bab4 7,a volume largely pirated from ,grimod de la ,reynire47 ,king 7,wm474 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,cookery4 ,a ,poem in ,imitation of ,horace's ,art of ,poetry4 ,by the ,author of a ,tale of a ,tub4 ,coqus omnia miscet--,juven4 ,london3 ,printed1 and are to be ,sold by the ,booksellers of ,london and ,westminster1 #agjh4 7,small folio7 pp4 #bb4 ,king 7,wm474 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,cookery4 ,with some ,letters to ,dr4 ,lister and ,others1 etc41 to which is added ,horace's ,art of ,poetry1 in ,latin4 ,printed for ,bernard ,lintott1 #agdj4 7#hvo7 pp4 #afj4 ,hayward 7,anthony74 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,dining2 ,,or1 ,,gastronomy ,,and ,,gastronomers4 ,london3 ,john ,murray1 #aheb4 7#d x #g in47 pp4 #acg4 ,,banquett ,,of ,,dainties3 ,,for ,,all ,,suche ,,gests ,,that ,,loue ,,moderatt ,,dyate4 ,by ,theo4 ,hackett4 ,london1 #aeff4 7#hvo7 pp4 #db4 ,murrey 7,thomas ,j474 ,,the ,,book ,,of ,,entr,,es4 ,new ,york3 ,white1 ,stokes ,allen1 #ahhf4 7#d x #f in47 ,farmer 7,fannie ,merritt74 ,,the ,,boston ,,cooking-,,school ,,cook ,,book4 ,by ,fannie ,merritt ,farmer1 ,principal of the ,boston ,cooking ,school4 ,boston3 ,little1 ,brown ,co41 #ahif4 7#hvo7 pp4 xxx1 #efg4 ,,breakfast1 ,,dinner1 ,,and ,,tea3 ,,viewed ,,classically1 ,,poetically ,,and ,,practically4 ,new ,york3 ,d4 ,appleton ,co41 #ahfi4 7#f x #g in47 pp4 #cea4 ,,breakfasts1 ,,luncheons ,,and ,,dinners ,,at ,,home4 ,how to ,order1 ,cook1 and ,serve ,them4 ,by ,short4 ,sixth ,edition4 ,london3 ,kerby ,endean1 #ahhf4 7#hvo7 pp4 #bjd4 ,,cassell',s ,,dictionary ,,of ,,cookery4 ,with ,numerous ,engravings and ,coloured ,plates1 ,containing ,about #ijjj ,recipes4 ,london1 ,paris1 and ,new ,york3 ,cassell1 ,petter ,galpin4 n4 d4 7,large #hvo7 pp4 xcvi1 #aagh4 ,ronald 7,mary74 ,,the ,,century ,,cook-,,book4 ,new ,york3 ,the ,century ,co41 #ahie4 7#hvo7 pp4 #ehg4 ,,the ,,chafing-,,dish ,,supper4 ,by ,christine ,terhune ,herrick4 ,new ,york3 ,charles ,scribner's ,sons1 #ahii4 7#abmo7 pp4 #aab4 ,a ,,closet ,,for ,,ladies ,,and ,,gentlemen2 ,,or1 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,preserving1 ,,conserving ,,and ,,candying4 ,with the ,manner how to make ,diverse ,kindes of ,syrupes1 and ,all ,kinde of ,banquetting ,stuffes1 etc4 ,london3 ,printed for ,arthur ,johnson1 #afah4 7#afmo7 pp4 #aij4 ,,the ,,closet ,,of ,,the ,,eminently ,,learned ,,sir ,,kenelme ,,digby1 ,,kt41 ,,opened4 ,whereby is ,discovered several ways for ,making of ,metheglin1 ,syder1 ,cherry-,wine1 etc41 ,together with ,excellent ,directions for ,cookery1 as also for ,preserving1 ,conserving1 ,candying1 etc4 ,london1 #afgg4 7#abmo47 ,carter 7,charles74 ,,the ,,compleat ,,city ,,and ,,country ,,cook2 ,,or1 ,,accomplish',d ,,housewife4 ,containing ,several ,hundred of the ,most ,approv'd ,receipts in ,cookery1 ,confectionary1 etc4 ,illustrated with ,forty-nine large ,copper-plates4 ,london1 #agcb4 7#hvo7 pp4 #bhj4 ,peckham 7,ann74 ,,the ,,complete ,,english ,,cook2 ,,or1 ,,prudent ,,housewife4 ,being a ,collection of the ,most ,general1 yet ,least ,expensive ,receipts in ,every ,branch of ,cookery and ,good ,housewifery1 etc4 ,by ,ann ,peckham1 of ,leeds4 ,the ,third ,edition4 ,leeds1 #aggj4 7#abmo7 pp4 #bdb4 ,,the ,,complete ,,family ,,piece4 ,a very ,choice ,collection of ,receipts in ,cookery4 ,seventh ,edition4 ,london1 #agdd4 7#hvo47 ,smith 7,e474 ,,the ,,complete ,,housewife2 ,,or1 ,,accomplished ,,gentlewoman',s ,,companion4 ,being a ,collection of upwards of ,seven ,hundred of the ,most ,approved ,receipts in ,cookery1 ,pastry1 ,confectionary1 etc41 etc4 ,the ,seventeenth ,edition1 with ,additions4 ,london3 ,printed for ,j4 ,buckland1 etc41 #agff4 7#hvo47 pp4 #cfd4 ,,the ,,complete ,,servant-,,maid4 ,london1 #afhb4 7#abmo47 ,,the ,,cook-,,book4 ,by ,oscar of the ,waldorf 7,oscar ,tschirky1 ,matre d',htel1 the ,waldorf74 ,chicago and ,new ,york3 ,the ,werner ,co41 #ahif4 7,large #dto7 pp4 #ijg4 ,reeve 7,mrs4 ,henry74 ,,cookery ,,and ,,housekeeping4 ,a ,manual of ,domestic ,economy for ,large and ,small ,families4 ,fourth ,edition4 ,london and ,new ,york3 ,longmans1 ,green ,co41 #ahhh4 7#hvo7 pp4 #edj4 ,kitchener 7,dr4 ,wm474 ,,the ,,cook',s ,,oracle4 ,fourth ,edition4 ,london1 #ahbb4 7#d x #g in47 pp4 xviii1 #ede4 ,athenus4 ,,the ,,deipnosophists2 ,,or1 ,,banquet ,,of ,,the ,,learned ,,of ,,athen,,us4 ,literally ,translated by ,c4 ,d4 ,yonge1 ,b4,a4 #c vols4 ,london3 ,henry ,c4 ,bohn1 #ahed4 7#e x #g in47 ,child 7,theodore74 ,,delicate ,,feasting4 ,new ,york3 ,harper ,brothers1 #ahij4 7#e x #f in47 pp4 #bad4 ,newnham-,davis 7,lieut4-,col474 ,,dinners ,,and ,,diners3 ,,where ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,dine ,,in ,,london4 ,a ,new ,enlarged and ,revised ,edition4 ,london3 ,grant ,richards1 #aija4 7#e x #g in47 pp4 #cgf4 ,harland 7,marion74 ,,the ,,dinner ,,year-,,book4 ,new ,york3 ,charles ,scribner's ,sons1 #ahgh4 7#hvo7 pp4 #gac4 ,,domestic ,,cookery 7,a ,,new ,,system ,,of71 ,,formed ,,upon ,,principles ,,of ,,economy4 ,by a ,lady4 ,a ,new ,edition1 ,corrected4 ,london3 ,john ,murray1 #ahad4 7#d x #g in47 pp4 xxx1 #ceb4 ,,early ,,english ,,meals ,,and ,,manners4 ,london3 ,the ,early ,english ,text ,society1 #ahfh4 7#e x #h in47 ,hoy 7,albert ,harris1 ,m4,d474 ,,eating ,,and ,,drinking3 ,,the ,,alkalinity ,,of ,,the ,,blood4 ,the ,test of ,food and ,drink in ,health and ,disease4 ,chicago3 ,a4 ,c4 ,mc,clurg ,co41 #ahif4 7#e x #h in47 pp4 #cjd4 ,,egg ,,cookery3 ,,one ,,hundred ,,and ,,fifty ,,ways ,,of ,,cooking ,,and ,,serving ,,eggs4 ,by ,alfred ,suzanne1 ,twenty-eight ,years ,chef to the ,earl of ,wilton1 now ,chef to the ,duke of ,bedford4 ,second ,edition4 ,london3 ,newton ,eskell1 #ahhg4 7#abmo7 pp4 #ig4 ,,the ,,encyclop,,dia ,,of ,,practical ,,cookery4 ,a ,complete ,dictionary of all pertaining to the ,art of ,cookery and ,table ,service1 ,illustrated with ,coloured ,plates and ,engravings by ,harold ,furness1 ,george ,cruikshank1 ,w4 ,munn ,andrew1 and others4 ,edited by ,thomas ,francis ,garrett1 etc41 etc41 etc4 ,london3 ,l4 ,upcott ,gill4 ,philadelphia3 ,hudson ,importing ,co4 #h vols4 7,large #dto7 pp4 #ahih4 ,markham 7,g474 ,,the ,,english ,,housewife4 ,containing the ,inward and ,outward ,vertues which ought to be in a ,compleat ,woman1 etc41 etc4 ,eighth ,edition4 ,london3 ,george ,sawbridge1 #afge4 7#f x #g in47 pp4 #ahh4 ,,an ,,englishman ,,in ,,paris4 ,notes and ,recollections4 ,two vols4 in one4 ,new ,york3 ,d4 ,appleton ,co4 7,town and ,country ,library74 7#abmo7 pp4 #dgh4 ,,the ,,epicurean4 ,a ,complete ,treatise of ,analytical and ,practical ,studies on the ,culinary ,art4 ,by ,charles ,ranhofer1 ,chef of ,delmonico's4 ,illustrated with #hjj ,plates4 ,new ,york3 ,charles ,ranhofer1 #ahid4 7,large #dto7 pp4 #aahc4 ,raffald 7,elizabeth74 ,,the ,,experienced ,,english ,,housekeeper4 ,for the ,use and ,ease of ,ladies1 ,housekeepers1 and ,cooks1 etc4 ,wrote purely from ,practice1 etc4 ,the ,third ,edition4 ,london3 ,r4 ,baldwin1 #aggc4 7#hvo7 pp4 #cff4 ,,the ,,expert ,,waitress4 ,a ,manual for the ,pantry1 ,kitchen1 and ,dining-room4 ,by ,anne ,frances ,springsteed4 ,new ,york and ,london3 ,harper ,bros41 #aijb4 7#abmo7 pp4 #aca4 ,pennell 7,elizabeth ,robins74 ,,the ,,feasts ,,of ,,autolycus3 ,,the ,,diary ,,of ,a ,,greedy ,,woman4 ,london3 ,john ,lane4 ,new ,york3 ,the ,merriam ,co41 #ahif4 7#e x #g in47 pp4 #bfd4 ,,fifty ,,dinners4 ,by ,a4 ,kenney ,herbert 7,wyvern74 ,london and ,new ,york3 ,edward ,arnold1 #ahie4 7#abmo7 pp4 #ahh4 ,,food ,,and ,,feeding4 ,by ,sir ,henry ,thompson1 ,bart4 ,tenth ,edition4 ,london and ,new ,york3 ,frederick ,warne ,co41 #ahii4 7#hvo7 pp4 #cab4 ,,food ,,materials ,,and ,,their ,,adulterations4 ,by ,ellen ,h4 ,richards4 ,new ,edition4 ,boston3 ,home ,science ,publishing ,co41 #ahih4 7,small #dto7 pp4 #ahc4 ,,gastronomy ,,as ,a ,,fine ,,art4 ,a ,translation of the ,physiologie du ,got of ,brillat-,savarin4 ,by ,r4 ,e4 ,anderson1 ,m4,a4 ,london3 ,chatto ,windus1 #ahgg4 7#e x #g in47 pp4 xxxvii1 #bhj4 ,dawson 7,thos474 ,,the ,,good ,,huswiuve',s ,,jewell4 ,in two ,parts4 ,london1 #aeif-g4 7#afmo47 ,brugire 7,sarah ,van ,buren74 ,,good ,,living4 ,a ,practical ,cookery-book for ,town and ,county4 ,second ,edition4 ,new ,york3 ,g4 ,p4 ,putnam's ,sons1 #ahij4 7#hvo7 pp4 #fjf4 ,a ,,handbook ,,of ,,gastronomy4 ,new and ,complete ,translation of ,brillat-,savarin's ,physiologie du ,got4 ,with #eb ,original ,etchings by ,a4 ,lalauze2 ,preface by ,charles ,monselet4 ,london3 ,john ,c4 ,nimmo4 ,new ,york3 ,j4 ,w4 ,bouton1 #ahhd4 7,tall #hvo7 pp4 #eaf4 ,blot 7,pierre74 ,,handbook ,,of ,,practical ,,cookery4 ,for ,ladies and ,professional ,cooks4 ,new ,york3 ,d4 ,appleton ,co41 #ahhh4 7#e x #g in47 pp4 #dgh4 ,,health',s ,,improvement2 ,,or1 ,,rules ,,comprising ,,and ,,discovering ,,the ,,nature1 ,,method ,,and ,,manner ,,of ,,preparing ,,all ,,sorts ,,of ,,food ,,used ,,in ,,this ,,nation4 ,written by that ever ,famous ,thomas ,muffett1 ,doctor in ,physick2 ,corrected and ,enlarged by ,christopher ,bennet1 ,doctor in ,physick1 and ,fellow of the ,colledge of ,physitions in ,london1 #afee4 7,small #dto47 ,larwood 7,jacob7 and ,hotten 7,john ,camden74 ,,the ,,history ,,of ,,signboards4 ,third ,edition4 ,london3 ,john ,camden ,hotten1 #ahff4 7#e x #f in47 pp4 #ecf4 ,harrison 7,mrs4 ,sarah74 ,,the ,,housekeeper',s ,,pocket ,,book1 ,,and ,,compleat ,,family ,,cook4 ,containing above ,seven ,hundred ,curious and ,uncommon ,receipts1 etc41 etc4 ,london3 ,printed for ,r4 ,ware1 #agea4 7#abmo7 pp4 #bfh4 ,,ice-,,cream ,,and ,,cakes4 ,a ,new ,collection of ,standard ,fresh and ,original ,receipts for ,household and ,commercial ,use1 by an ,american4 ,new ,york3 ,charles ,scribner's ,sons1 #ahhc4 7#hvo7 pp4 #chd4 ,i ,,go ,a-,,marketing4 ,by ,henrietta ,sowle 7,henriette74 ,boston3 ,little1 ,brown ,co41 #aijj4 7#hvo7 pp4 #bcg4 ,,leaves ,,from ,,our ,,tuscan ,,kitchen2 ,,or1 ,,how ,,to ,,cook ,,vegetables4 ,by ,janet ,ross4 ,london3 ,j4 ,m4 ,dent ,co41 #ahii4 7#abmo7 pp4 #aej4 ,,mrs4 ,,lincoln',s ,,boston ,,cook-,,book4 ,what ,to ,do and ,what ,not ,to ,do in ,cooking4 ,revised ,edition4 ,boston3 ,little1 ,brown ,co41 #aija4 7#hvo7 pp4 #egh4 ,farley 7,john74 ,,the ,,london ,,art ,,of ,,cookery ,,and ,,housekeeper',s ,,complete ,,assistant4 ,on a ,new ,plan made ,plain and ,easy to every ,housekeeper1 ,cook1 and ,servant in the ,kingdom1 etc41 etc4 ,london3 ,printed for ,j4 ,scatcherd and ,j4 ,whitaker1 #agij4 7#hvo7 pp4 #dei4 ,,the ,,majestic ,,family ,,cook-,,book4 ,by ,adolph ,gallier4 ,containing #acjj ,selected ,recipes ,simplified for the ,use of ,housekeepers4 ,new ,york3 ,g4 ,p4 ,putnam's ,sons1 #ahig4 7#hvo7 pp4 #dai4 ,,mrs4 ,a4 ,b4 ,,marshall',s ,,large ,,cookery ,,book ,,of ,,extra ,,recipes4 ,with #bhd ,illustrations4 ,london3 ,simpkin1 ,marshall1 ,hamilton ,kent ,co41 #ahid4 ,sixth thousand4 7,tall #hvo7 pp4 #fef4 ,ellwanger 7,george ,h474 ,,meditations ,,on ,,gout3 ,with a ,consideration of ,its ,cure ,through the ,use of ,wine4 ,new ,york3 ,dodd1 ,mead ,co41 #ahih4 7#e x #f in47 pp4 xvi1 #bjh4 ,,memoirs ,,of ,a ,,stomach4 ,written by ,himself1 ,that ,all ,who ,eat ,may ,read4 ,with ,notes ,critical and ,explanatory4 ,by a ,minister of the ,interior4 ,london3 ,w4 ,e4 ,painter1 #ahec4 7#e x #f in47 pp4 #ace4 ,francatelli 7,charles ,elm74 ,,the ,,modern ,,cook4 ,a ,practical ,guide to the ,culinary ,art in ,all its ,branches4 ,twenty-sixth ,edition4 ,philadelphia3 ,david ,mc,kay4 7,tall #hvo7 pp4 #eib4 ,la ,chapelle 7,vincent74 ,,the ,,modern ,,cook4 ,by ,mr4 ,vincent ,la ,chapelle1 ,chief ,cook to the ,right ,hon4 the ,earl of ,chesterfield4 ,london3 ,printed for the ,author1 and sold by ,nicolas ,prevost1 #agcc4 #c vols4 7#hvo7 pp4 #cbh1 #caf1 #cjg4 ,,modern ,,method ,,of ,,regulating ,,and ,,forming ,a ,,table ,,explained ,,and ,,displayed4 ,containing a great ,variety of ,dinners laid out in the most elegant taste1 finely represented on #aeb large copperplates with descriptions1 also #ab elegant dinners for different seasons of the year1 list of such particulars as are in season for the use of ,ladies ,housekeepers4 ,london1 #agej4 7,folio47 ,,mother ,,hubbard',s ,,cupboard4 ,receipts ,collected by the ,young ,ladies' ,society1 ,first ,baptist ,church1 ,rochester1 ,n4 ,y4 ,rochester3 ,scrantom1 ,wetmore ,co41 #ahie4 7#hvo7 pp4 #hg4 ,a ,,noble ,,boke ,,of ,,cookry 7#adfg74 ,edited by ,mrs4 ,alexander ,napier4 ,london3 ,elliot ,stock1 #ahhb4 ,hazlitt 7,w4 ,carew74 ,,old ,,cookery ,,books ,,and ,,ancient ,,cuisine4 ,london3 ,elliot ,stock1 #ahhf4 7#d x #f in47 pp4 #bfc4 ,walker 7,thomas1 ,m4,d474 ,,the ,,original4 ,fifth ,edition4 7,part ,,ii4 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,attaining ,,high ,,health4 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,dining47 ,london3 ,henry ,renshaw1 #ahge4 7#f x #h in47 ,soyer 7,a474 ,,the ,,pantropheon2 ,,or1 ,,history ,,of ,,food ,,and ,,its ,,preparation ,,from ,,the ,,earliest ,,ages ,,of ,,the ,,world4 ,london3 ,simpkin1 ,marshall ,co41 #ahec4 7#f x #i in47 pp4 #dgd4 ,,miss ,,parloa',s ,,kitchen ,,companion4 ,a ,guide for ,all who would be ,good ,housekeepers4 ,by ,maria ,parloa4 ,twenty-first ,edition4 ,boston3 ,dana1 ,estes ,co41 #ahhg4 7#hvo7 pp4 #iff4 ,marnette 7,m474 ,,the ,,perfect ,,cook4 ,being the most exact ,directions for the making of all kind of ,pastes1 etc41 as also the ,perfect ,english ,cook1 or right method of the whole ,art of ,cookery1 with the true ordering of ,french1 ,spanish1 and ,italian ,kickshaws1 with ,a-la-mode ,varieties for ,persons of ,honour4 ,london3 ,printed for ,obadiah ,blagrave1 #afhf4 7#abmo47 ,,philosopher',s ,,banquet 7,,the74 ,newly furnished and decked forth with much variety of many several ,dishes1 etc4 ,by ,w4 ,b4 ,london1 #afcc4 7#abmo47 ,hill 7,janet ,mc,kenzie74 ,,practical ,,cooking ,,and ,,serving4 ,a ,compleat ,manual of ,how to ,select1 ,prepare1 and ,serve ,food1 with many ,illustrations4 ,new ,york3 ,doubleday1 ,page ,co41 #aijb4 7#hvo7 pp4 xiii1 #gab4 ,cook 7,ann74 ,,professed ,,cookery4 ,third ,edition4 ,london1 #agfj4 ,,the ,,queen',s ,,closet ,,opened4 ,incomparable ,secrets in ,physick1 ,chyrurgery1 ,preserving and ,canning1 etc4 ,london3 ,printed for ,obadiah ,blagrave1 #afgi4 7#abmo7 pp4 #aij4 ,,mrs4 ,,rorer',s ,,philadelphia ,,cook-,,book4 ,a ,manual of ,home ,economics4 ,philadelphia3 ,arnold ,co4 7#hvo7 pp4 #eha4 ,,round ,,the ,,table3 ,,notes ,,on ,,cookery ,,and ,,plain ,,recipes4 ,with a ,selection of ,bills of ,fare for ,every ,month4 ,by ,the ,g4 ,c4 ,london3 ,horace ,cox1 #ahgc1 #bnd edition4 ,philadelphia3 ,j4 ,b4 ,lippincott ,co41 #ahgf1 reprint4 7#e x #g in47 pp4 #cjc4 ,gouff 7,jules74 ,,the ,,royal ,,cookery ,,book 7,,le ,,livre ,,de ,,cuisine74 ,translated and adapted for ,english use by ,alphonse ,gouff1 ,head ,pastry-cook to ,her ,majesty the ,queen4 ,comprising ,domestic and ,high-class ,cookery2 #af full-page coloured plates and #afa woodcut illustrations4 7,thick royal #hvo7 #ahhc4 ,lamb 7,patrick74 ,,royal ,,cookery2 ,,or1 ,,the ,,compleat ,,court-,,cook4 ,containing the choicest ,receipts in all the several ,branches of ,cookery1 viz41 for making of ,soops1 ,bisques1 ,olios1 ,terrines1 ,surtouts1 ,ragoos1 ,forc'd-meats1 ,sauces1 ,pattys1 ,pies1 ,tarts1 ,tansies1 etc41 etc4 ,second ,edition4 ,london3 ,e4 ,nutt1 at the ,middle ,temple ,gate1 #agaf4 7#hvo7 pp4 #cjb4 ,cozzens 7,frederic ,s474 ,,the ,,sayings ,,of ,,dr4 ,,bushwhacker ,,and ,,other ,,learned ,,men4 ,new ,york3 ,a4 ,simpson ,co41 #ahfg4 7#e x #f in47 pp4 #bac4 ,,mrs4 ,,seely',s ,,cook-,,book4 ,a ,manual of ,french and ,american ,cookery1 etc41 etc4 ,by ,mrs4 ,l4 ,seely4 ,new ,york and ,london3 ,the ,macmillan ,co41 #aijb4 7#dto7 pp4 #dcb4 ,,spon',s ,,household ,,manual4 ,a ,treasury of ,domestic ,receipts and ,guide for ,home ,management4 ,london3 ,e4 ,f4 ,n4 ,spon4 ,new ,york3 ,spon ,chamberlain1 #ahid4 7,tall #hvo7 pp4 #ajaj4 ,,the ,,table4 ,how to ,buy ,food1 ,how to ,cook ,it1 and ,how to ,serve ,it4 ,by ,alessandro ,filippini4 ,revised ,edition4 ,new ,york3 ,the ,merriam ,co41 #ahie4 7,large #hvo7 pp4 #eje4 ,,three ,,hundred ,,and ,,sixty-,,six ,,menus ,,and ,,recipes ,,of ,,the ,,baron ,,brisse4 ,in ,french and ,english4 ,translated by ,mrs4 ,matthew ,clark4 ,sixth ,edition4 ,london3 ,sampson ,low1 ,marston1 ,searle ,rivington1 #ahhh4 7#hvo7 pp4 xvi1 #djj4 ,peck 7,harry ,thurston74 ,,trimalchio',s ,,dinner4 ,translated from the ,original ,latin of ,petronius ,arbiter4 ,new ,york3 ,dodd1 ,mead ,co41 #ahih4 7#e x #g in47 pp4 #bjb4 ,,two ,,fifteenth ,,century ,,cookery ,,books4 ,harleian ,,ms4 #bgi and ,harleian ,,ms4 #djaf4 ,london3 ,the ,early ,english ,text ,society1 #ahdh4 7#e x #h in47 pp4 xix1 #aea4 ,,the ,,white ,,house ,,cook-,,book4 ,a ,comprehensive ,cyclopedia of ,information for the ,home1 ,containing ,cooking1 ,toilet and ,household ,recipes1 ,menus1 ,dinner-giving1 ,table ,etiquette1 etc4 ,by ,hugo ,ziemann and ,mrs4 ,f4 ,l4 ,gillette4 ,chicago3 ,the ,saalfield ,publishing ,co41 #aijj4 7,large #dto7 pp4 #ejh4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,almanach ,,de ,,la ,,salle ,,manger ,r,,dig ,,par ,,des ,,gourmets ,,litt,,raires ,,et ,,des ,,ma,,tres ,,de ,,bouche4 ,paris3 ,bureau du ,journal la ,salle ,manger1 #ahfe4 7#afmo7 pp4 #agf4 ,,almanach ,,de ,,la ,,table1 #ahdf4 ,avec la carte gastronomique de ,paris4 ,paris1 #ahde4 7#cbmo7 pp4 #abh4 ,,almanach ,,des ,,chasseurs ,,et ,,des ,,gourmands4 ,paris3 ,au ,dpot de ,librairie1 ,rue des ,moulins4 s4 d4 7#abmo7 pp4 #add4 ,la ,reynire 7,grimod de74 ,,almanach ,,des ,,gourmands2 ,,ou1 ,,calendrier ,,nutritif ,,servant ,,de ,,guide ,,dans ,,les ,,moyens ,,de ,,faire ,,excellente ,,ch,,re4 ,suivi de l'itinraire d'un ,gourmand dans divers quartiers de ,paris1 et de quelques varits morales1 nutritives1 anecdotes gourmandes1 etc4 ,par un vieil amateur4 ,paris3 ,chez ,maradan1 #ahjc1 #ahjd1 #ahje1 #ahjf1 #ahjg1 #ahjh2 chez ,joseph ,chaumerot1 #ahaj1 #ahab4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #bdg1 #bhb1 #cdb1 #ccf1 #cfb1 #cca1 #cdj1 #cfj4 ,raisson 7,horace74 ,,almanach ,,perp,,tuel ,,des ,,gourmands4 ,contenant le ,code ,gourmand4 ,sixime dition1 et des explications et mditations de gastronomie transcendante4 ,paris1 au ,palais ,royal1 #ahbi4 7#ahmo47 ,,almanach ,,perp,,tuel ,,des ,,pauvres ,,diables ,,pour ,,servir ,,de ,,correctif ,l',,almanach ,,des ,,gourmands4 ,a ,paris1 chez ,madame ,caillot1 #ahjc4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #abd4 ,grard 7,charles74 ,l',,ancienne ,,alsace ,,table4 ,,etude ,,historique ,,et ,,arch,,ologique ,,sur ,l',,alimentation1 ,,les ,m,,urs ,,et ,,les ,,usages ,,epulaires ,,de ,l',,ancienne ,,province ,d',,alsace4 ,colmar3 ,camille ,decker1 #ahfb4 7#hvo7 pp4 #cja4 ,,antigastronomie 7,l'72 ,,ou1 ,l',,homme ,,de ,,ville ,,sortant ,,de ,,table4 ,pome en ,,iv chants4 ,manuscrit trouv dans un pt et augment de remarques importantes1 avec figure4 ,a ,paris1 chez ,hubert et ,cie1 #ahjf4 7#abmo7 pp4 #bae4 ,fulbert-,dumonteil4 ,l',,art ,,de ,,bien ,,manger4 ,fins et joyeux croquis gastronomiques1 crits pour les gourmets4 ,paris3 ,nilsson1 #aija4 7#abmo7 pp4 #gaf4 ,colnet4 ,l',,art ,,de ,d,,ner ,,en ,,ville ,l',,usage ,,des ,,gens ,,de ,,lettres4 ,pome en ,,iv ,chants4 ,seconde dition revue et corrige4 ,paris3 ,delaunay1 #ahaj4 7#abmo7 pp4 #add4 ,carme 7,a474 ,l',,art ,,de ,,la ,,cuisine ,,fran,,aise ,,au ,,dix-,,neuvi,,me ,,si,,cle1 ,,etc41 ,,etc4 ,paris1 l',auteur1 #ahcc-ahce4 #c vols4 7#hvo74 ,mangenville 7,feu le chavalier de74 ,l',,art ,,de ,,ne ,,jamais ,d,,je,,ner ,,chez ,,soi ,,et ,,de ,d,,ner ,,toujours ,,chez ,,les ,,autres4 ,enseign en huit leons1 indiquant les diverses recettes pour se faire inviter tous les jours1 toute l'anne1 toute la vie4 ,a ,paris1 la ,librairie ,universelle1 #ahbg4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #adj4 ,beauvilliers 7,a474 ,l',,art ,,du ,,cuisinier4 ,par ,a4 ,beauvilliers1 ,ancien ,officier de ,monsieur1 ,comte de ,provence4 ,a ,paris3 ,chez ,pillet ,ain1 #ahbd4 #b vols4 7#hvo71 pp4 xx1 #chh1 #djh4 ,vincard 7,pierre74 ,,le ,,banquet ,,des ,,sept ,,gourmands1 ,,roman ,,gastronomique4 ,paris3 ,gustave ,sandr1 #ahec4 7#abmo7 pp4 #baj4 ,vicaire 7,georges74 ,,bibliographie ,,gastronomique4 ,la cuisine--,la ,table--,l',office--,les ,aliments--,les ,vins--,les ,cuisiniers et les ,cuisinires--,les ,gourmands et les ,gastronomes4 ,l',economie domestique--,facties--,dissertations singulires4 ,pices de ,thtre1 etc41 etc41 depuis le ,,xve4 sicle jusqu' nos jours4 ,avec des fac-simils4 ,paris1 chez ,p4 ,rouquette et ,fils1 ,editeurs1 #ahij4 7,large #hvo7 pp4 xviii1 #iga4 ,dubarry 7,armand74 ,,le ,,boire ,,et ,,le ,,manger4 ,histoire ,anecdotique des ,aliments4 ,paris3 ,furne1 ,jouvet et ,cie1 #ahhd4 7#afmo7 pp4 #bef4 ,souchay 7,lon74 ,,le ,,bon ,,cuisinier ,,illustr4 ,paris3 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l',impratrice d',allemagne4 ,douzime dition4 ,paris3 ,e4 ,dentu1 #ahhf4 #b vols4 7#dto71 pp4 #dfg1 #dia4 ,do4 ,paris1 ,flammarion1 #ahii4 #b vols4 7#dto71 pp4 #ejj1 #ejj4 ,dubois 7,urbain74 ,,la ,,cuisine ,d',,aujourdhui1 ,,cole ,,des ,,jeunes ,,cuisiniers4 ,service des djeners--,service des dners1 #bej manires de prpares les ufs1 #bfj dessins1 dont #dj planches graves4 ,par ,urbain ,dubois1 auteur de la ,cuisine de ,tous les ,pays1 etc4 ,paris3 ,e4 ,dentu1 #ahhi4 7#dto7 pp4 xv1 #gfj4 ,,cuisine 7,,la7 ,,de ,,nos ,p,,res4 ,l',art d'accomoder le ,gibier suivant les ,principes de ,vatel et des ,grands ,officiers de ,bouche4 ,deux cents recettes la porte de ,tout le ,monde4 ,paris3 ,librairie ,illustre1 #ahhf4 7#hvo47 ,,cuisine 7,,la7 ,,de ,,sant4 ,prservatif des ,maladies4 ,paris3 ,audot2 ,crochard1 #ahca4 7#abmo47 ,dubois 7,urbain74 ,,cuisine ,,de ,,tous ,,les ,,pays4 ,paris3 ,dentu1 #aija4 7,large #hvo1 illustrated7 pp4 #ijj4 ,durand 7,c474 ,,cuisine ,,du ,,midi ,,et ,,du ,,nord4 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,,boissons1 ,,etc4 ,paris3 ,j4 ,g4 ,dentu1 #ahbg4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #bha4 ,,gastronomie 7,,la71 ,,revue ,,de ,l',,art ,,culinaire ,,ancien ,,et ,,moderne4 ,redig par une ,socit de ,gens de ,lettres et de ,gastronomes forms l',ecole de ,grimod de la ,reynire et de ,brillat-,savarin4 ,paris1 #ahci-ahda4 7,periodical1 #ei numbers published47 ,dumas 7,alexandre74 ,,grand ,,dictionnaire ,,de ,,cuisine4 ,paris3 ,alphonse ,lamerre1 #ahgc4 7#hvo7 pp4 #aaeb4 ,desnoiresterres 7,gustave74 ,,grimod ,,de ,,la ,,reyni,,re ,,et ,,son ,,grouppe4 ,d',aprs des documents entirement indits4 ,paris3 ,librairie ,acadmique1 ,didier et ,cie1 #ahgg4 7#abmo7 pp4 #cii4 ,nicolardot 7,louis74 ,,histoire ,,de ,,la ,,table4 ,curiosits ,gastronomiques de ,tous les ,temps et de ,tous les ,pays4 ,paris3 ,e4 ,dentu1 #ahfh4 7#abmo7 pp4 xxiv1 #dce4 ,verdot 7,c474 ,,historiographie ,,de ,,la ,,table2 ,,ou1 ,,abr,g ,,historique1 ,,philosophique1 ,,anecdotique ,,et ,,litt,,raire ,,des ,,substances ,,alimentaires ,,et ,,des ,,objets ,,qui ,,leur ,,sont ,,relatifs1 ,,des ,,principales ,f,,tes1 ,m,,urs1 ,,usages ,,et ,,coutumes ,,de ,,tous ,,les ,,peuples ,,anciens ,,et ,,modernes4 ,deuxime dition4 ,paris1 chez l',auteur1 #ahcc4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #chd4 ,gaubert4 ,,hygi,,ne ,,de ,,la ,,digestion4 ,suivi d'un nouveau dictionnaire des alimens par le ,dr4 ,paul ,gaubert1 de la ,lgion d',honneur1 etc4 ,paris1 #ahde4 7#hvo7 pp4 #eeb4 ,porte 7,dr4 ,j4 ,p4 ,a4 de la74 ,,hygi,,ne ,,de ,,la ,,table4 ,trait du choix des aliments dans leurs rapports avec la sant4 ,paris3 ,f4 ,savy1 #ahgj4 7,large #hvo7 pp4 #eaf4 ,la ,reynire 7,grimod de74 ,,journal ,,des ,,gourmands ,,et ,,des ,,belles2 ,,ou1 ,l',,epicurien ,,fran,,ais4 ,rdig par l'auteur de l',almanach des ,gourmands1 etc4 ,paris3 ,capelle et ,renaud1 #ahjf4 ,loire 7,louis74 ,,les ,,joyeux ,,propos ,,de ,,table4 ,anecdotes--bons mots--traits plaisants--boutades entremles de curieuses recettes culinaires recueillis par ,louis ,loire4 ,paris3 ,e4 ,dentu1 #ahgi4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #baf4 ,gouff 7,jules74 ,,le ,,livre ,,de ,,cuisine4 ,par ,jules ,gouff1 ancien officier de bouche du ,jockey ,club de ,paris1 comprenant la ,cuisine de ,mnage et la grande ,cuisine4 ,cinquime dition4 ,paris3 ,hachette et ,cie1 #ahha4 7,tall #hvo7 pp4 #hfd4 ,do4 ,hachette et ,cie1 #aijb4 pp4 #gfj4 ,gouff 7,jules74 ,,le ,,livre ,,de ,p,,tisserie4 ,paris3 ,hachette et ,cie1 #ahgc4 7,tall #hvo7 pp4 #ejf4 ,seignobos 7,mme474 ,,le ,,livre ,,des ,,petits ,m,,nages4 ,ouvrage contenant #bjf gravures4 ,paris1 ,hachette1 #ahid4 7#abmo7 pp4 #dgd4 ,taillevent 7,guillaume ,tirel74 ,,le ,,livre ,,de ,,taillevent1 ,,grand ,,cuisinier ,,de ,,france4 ,suivi du livre de honneste volupt1 contenant la manire d'habiller toute sorte de viandes--le tout revue nouvellement4 ,lyon3 pour ,pierre ,rigaud1 #afjb4 7l#fmo47 ,fournier 7,edouard74 ,,livre ,d',,or ,,des ,m,,tiers4 ,histoire des htelleries1 cabarets1 htels garnis1 restaurants et cafs et des anciennes communauts et confrries d'hteliers1 des marchands de vins1 de restaurateurs1 de limonadiers1 etc41 etc4 ,paris1 #ahea4 #b vols4 7#hvo71 pp4 #cdh1 #daj4 ,najac 7,emile de74 ,,madame ,,est ,,servie4 ,paris3 ,e4 ,dentu1 #ahgd4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #bhd4 ,carme 7,a474 ,,le ,,ma,,tre-,d',h,,tel ,,fran,,ais2 ,,ou1 ,,parall,,le ,,de ,,la ,,cuisine ,,ancienne ,,et ,,moderne1 ,,etc41 ,,etc4 ,paris3 ,firmin-,didot1 #ahbb4 #b vols4 7#hvo74 ,,manuel ,,de ,,la ,,cuisini,,re ,,proven,,ale4 ,contenant la ,prparation et la ,conservation des ,aliments particuliers la ,provence2 suivi de la ,cuisine bourgeoise4 ,marseille3 ,chauffard1 #aheh4 7#abmo7 pp4 #bgf4 ,,manuel 7,,le7 ,,de ,,la ,,friandise2 ,,ou1 ,,les ,,talents ,,de ,,ma ,,cuisini,,re ,,isabeau ,,mis ,,en ,,lumi,,re4 ,contenant l',art de faire soi-mme une excellente ,cuisine1 et de manger de bons morceaux sans faire trop dpense1 etc4 ,par l',auteur du petit cuisinier conome4 ,a ,paris1 chez ,janet1 #agif4 7#ahmo7 pp4 xxxviii1 #bfd4 ,martin 7,alexandre74 ,,manuel ,,de ,l',,amateur ,,de ,,melons2 ,,ou1 ,l',,art ,,de ,,reconna,,tre ,,et ,d',,acheter ,,de ,,bons ,,melons4 ,prcd d'une histoire de ce fruit1 avec un trait sur sa culture1 etc4 ,paris3 ,aug4 ,udron1 #ahbg4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #aef4 ,martin 7,alexandre74 ,,manuel ,,de ,l',,amateur ,,des ,,truffes2 ,,ou1 ,l',,art ,d',,obtenir ,,des ,,truffes4 ,au moyen des plants artificiels1 dans les parcs1 bosquets1 jardins1 etc41 etc41 prcd d'une histoire de la truffe et d'anecdotes gourmandes1 et suivi d'un trait sur la culture des champignons4 ,seconde dition4 ,paris3 ,leroi2 ,audin1 #ahbi 7#ahmo7 pp4 xii1 #adc4 ,la ,reynire 7,grimod de74 ,,manuel ,,des ,,amphitryons4 ,contenant un ,trait de la ,dissection des ,viandes ,table1 la ,nomenclature des ,menus les plus ,nouveaux pour chacque ,saison1 et des ,elemens de ,politesse ,gourmande4 ,ouvrage indispensable tous ceux qui sont jaloux de faire bonne chre1 et de la faire faire aux autres4 ,orn d'un grand nombre de planches graves en taille-douce4 ,a ,paris1 chez ,capelle et ,renand1 #ahjh4 7#hvo7 pp4 #chd4 ,cardelli 7,m474 ,,manuel ,,des ,,gourmands2 ,,ou1 ,l',,art ,,de ,,faire ,,les ,,honneurs ,,de ,,sa ,,table4 ,paris3 ,librairie ,roret4 s4 d4 7#ahmo74 ,courchamps 7,maurice ,cousin1 ,comte de74 ,n,o-,,physiologie ,,du ,,go,t ,,par ,,ordre ,,alphab,,tique2 ,,ou1 ,,dictionnaire ,g,n,,ral ,,de ,,la ,,cuisine ,,fran,,aise ,,ancienne ,,et ,,moderne1 ,,etc41 ,,etc4 ,enrichi de plusieurs menus1 prescriptions culinaires1 et autres opuscules indits de ,m4 de la ,reynire1 auteur de l',almanach des ,gourmands2 suivi d'une collection gnrale des menus franais depuis le douzime sicle4 ,paris1 #ahci4 7#hvo7 pp4 #fce4 7,dumas' favourite work on cookery47 ,prigord 7,a4 ,b4 de74 ,,nouvel ,,almanach ,,des ,,gourmands4 ,paris3 ,bandouin ,frres1 #ahbe4 7#hvo7 pp4 xxiv1 #bbd4 ,cardelli 7,m474 ,,nouvel ,,manuel ,,complet ,,du ,,cuisinier ,,et ,,de ,,la ,,cuisini,,re ,l',,usage ,,de ,,la ,,ville ,,et ,,de ,,la ,,campagne4 ,nouvelle ,edition4 ,paris3 ,librairie ,roret1 #ahah4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #dgb4 ,briffault 7,eugne74 ,,paris ,,table4 ,illustr par ,bertall4 ,paris3 ,j4 ,hetzel1 #ahdf4 7#hvo7 pp4 #ahd4 ,,pastissier 7,,le7 ,,fran,,ois4 ,o est enseign la manire de faire toute sorte de ,pastisserie1 trs-utile toutes sortes de personnes4 ,a ,amsterdam1 chez ,louys et ,daniel ,elzevier1 #afed4 7#abmo7 pp4 #beb4 ,carme 7,a474 ,,le ,p,,tissier ,,pittoresque1 ,,etc41 ,,etc4 ,nouvelle dition4 ,paris1 au ,dpt de la ,librairie1 #ahed4 7#hvo7 pp4 #ef4 ,carme 7,a474 ,,le ,p,,tissier ,,royal ,,parisien2 ,,ou1 ,,trait ,,el,,mentaire ,,et ,,pratique ,,de ,,la ,,patisserie ,,ancienne ,,et ,,moderne1 ,,etc41 ,,etc4 ,paris3 ,j4 ,g4 ,dentu1 #ahae4 #b vols4 7#hvo71 pp4 #dhb1 #ddg4 ,brisse 7,baron74 ,,la ,,petite ,,cuisine4 #cme ,edition4 ,paris3 ,e4 ,donnaud1 #ahge4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #dbi4 ,geair 7,mlle4 ,j474 ,,la ,,petite ,,cuisini,,re ,,bourgeoise1 ,,avec ,,renseignements ,,utiles ,,aux ,,familles4 ,par ,mlle4 ,julie ,geair1 professeur4 ,paris1 impr4 ,barnagaud1 #ahhi4 7#afmo7 pp4 #gch4 ,brillat-,savarin4 ,,physiologie ,,du ,,go,t2 ,,ou1 ,m,,ditations ,,de ,,gastronomie ,,transcendante4 ,ouvrage thorique1 historique et l'ordre du jour1 ddi aux gastronomes parisiens1 par un professeur1 membre de plusieurs socits littraires et savantes4 ,paris3 ,a4 ,sautelet et ,cie1 #ahbf4 #b vols4 7#hvo71 pp4 #cij1 #dbb4 7,first edition of the ,physiologie47 ,delveau 7,alfred74 ,,les ,,plaisirs ,,de ,,paris4 ,guide pratique et illustr4 ,paris3 ,achille ,faure1 #ahfg4 7#afmo7 pp4 #bii4 ,,promenade ,,gastronomique ,,dans ,,paris4 ,prsentant un tableau fidle1 anecdotique et comique des faits et gestes des cuisiniers et cuisinires de tous les tages1 ainsi que des traiteurs1 restaurateurs1 consommateurs1 etc4 ,par un ,amateur4 ,paris3 ,librairie ,orientale de ,dondey-,dupr1 #ahcc4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #aga4 ,reiber 7,emile74 ,,les ,,propos ,,de ,,table ,,de ,,la ,,vieille ,,alsace4 ,illustrs tout au long de ,dessins originaux des anciens ,matres alsaciens4 ,paris3 chez ,launette1 #ahhf4 7#dto7 pp4 xvi1 #bca4 ,rouvire4 ,,quelques ,,conseils ,,sur ,l',,hygi,,ne ,,du ,,cuisinier4 ,par ,f4 ,rouvire1 restaurateur4 ,bordeaux1 impr4 ,j4 ,durand1 #ahhf4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #ajh4 ,chavette 7,eugne74 ,,restaurateurs ,,et ,,restaur,s4 ,dessins par ,cham4 ,paris3 ,a4 ,le ,chevalier1 #ahfg4 7#afmo7 pp4 #abf4 ,cauderlier4 ,,la ,,sant ,,par ,,les ,,aliments4 ,pour vivre de #ej #hj ans et plus4 ,gand3 ,imprimerie de ,lon de ,busscher1 #ahhb4 7#hvo7 pp4 #cjd4 ,gogu4 ,,les ,,secrets ,,de ,,la ,,cuisine ,,fran,,aise4 ,par ,a4 ,gogu1 ancien chef des cuisines du ,comte ,ducayla1 de ,lord ,melville1 etc4 ,ouvrage illustr de #de gravures sur bois par ,rouyer4 ,paris1 ,librairie ,hachette1 #ahef4 7#abmo7 pp4 #dch4 ,,les ,,soupers ,,de ,,la ,,cour2 ,,ou1 ,l',,art ,,de ,,travailler ,,toutes ,,sortes ,d',,alimens ,,pour ,,servir ,,les ,,meilleurs ,,tables1 ,,suivant ,,les ,,quatre ,,saisons4 ,a ,paris1 chez ,guillyn1 #agee4 #d vols4 7#abmo74 ,staffe 7,bonne74 ,,traditions ,,culinaires ,,et ,l',,art ,,de ,,manger ,,toutes ,,choses ,,table4 ,paris1 ,havard1 #ahif4 7#abmo7 pp4 #djj4 ,bontou4 ,,trait ,,de ,,cuisine ,,bourgeoise ,,bordelaise4 ,bordeaux3 ,feret et ,fils1 #ahih4 7#abmo7 pp4 #fhb4 ,ferry de la ,bellone 7,de74 ,,la ,,truffe3 ,,etude ,,sur ,,les ,,truffes ,,et ,,les ,,truffi,,res4 ,paris3 ,j4 ,b4 ,baillire et ,fils1 #ahhh4 7#afmo47 ,chatillon-,plessis4 ,,la ,,vie ,,table ,,la ,,fin ,,du ,,xix,c4 ,,si,,cle4 ,theorie pratique et historique de ,gastronomie moderne1 etc4 ,paris3 ,librairie de ,firmin-,didot et ,cie1 #ahid4 7#hvo7 pp4 #daa4 ,franklin 7,alfred74 ,,la ,,vie ,,priv,e ,d',,autrefois 444,,les ,,repas4 ,paris3 ,plon1 ,nourrit et ,cie1 #ahhg4 7#ahmo7 pp4 #cjj4 ,,index ,accomplish'd ,cook 7,the71 ,robert ,may's1 #ii ,ahasuerus 7,king71 feast of1 #ab ,aigrefeuille 7,m4 d'71 as an epicure1 #fi1 #gj1 #abi ,aldergrove 7,john71 on game1 #ced ,almanach des ,gourmands1 quoted1 #gj2 referred to1 #gc1 #aab et seq41 #aeg1 #ahd1 #bcc1 #ccf2 its purpose1 #acb2 aphorisms of1 #ach-aci4 ,vide also ,g4 de la ,reynire ,almanach ,gourmand 7,l'71 referred to1 #bbe ,almanach ,gourmand 7,le ,double71 quoted1 #beh ,alsace1 excellence of its cooks1 #adi ,ancienne ,alsace ,table 7,l'71 #adh-aej ,angelica1 #dcd ,anne 7,queen71 as a gourmande1 #ajb ,apician ,morsels1 a piratical volume1 #ccf ,apicius1 as a cook1 #bi2 referred to1 #dj1 #da1 #ej1 #bjj ,apios tuberosa1 or ground-nut1 #bee ,appetites 7great71 anecdote of the ,vicomte de ,viel-,castel1 #bad2 anecdote of a ,swiss guard1 #bah2 anecdote of a ,french drummer1 #bah2 anecdote of an ,english chaplain1 #bhh ,archestratus1 his lost poem on gastronomy1 #ac ,art ,culinaire 7,l'71 #aba1 #cdg1 #djh ,art de ,diner en ,ville 7,l'71 #gf ,art de la ,cuisine ,franaise au ,dix-neuvime ,sicle 7,l'71 #bjf ,art du ,cuisinier 7,l'71 #ga-gb ,arthus 7,dsir71 on old tavern-signs1 #fh ,art of ,cookery 7,the71 ,mrs4 ,glasse's1 #ajg-aaa1 #caf ,art of ,cookery 7,king's71 quoted1 #ic1 #cdd ,art of ,dining 7,the71 ,thos4 ,walker's1 #cai2 ,abraham ,hayward's1 #cca et seq4 ,arts 7the7 and their masters1 #aca ,athenus1 quoted1 #h1 #ac1 #af1 #ah1 #ba-bc ,attendance1 importance of perfect1 #cba ,audubon1 on game1 #cfb1 #cfc1 #cgj ,autumn1 glories of1 #cgc et seq41 #cih ,avalanche 7the71 of ,carme1 #bjj ,azincourt 7,albouis71 referred to1 #acj ,baba1 its history and virtues1 #dcd ,babiroussa 7the71 anecdote of1 #bab ,bakers1 the art of the ,german1 #adf1 #aga ,baking1 an ancient form of cooking1 #aj ,balzac1 quoted1 #e1 #cea2 referred to1 #agg2 as a gastronomer1 #bai ,banquets1 early ,english1 #ij1 #ia ,banville 7,thodore de71 quoted1 #bbg2 referred to1 #cda1 #dde ,baron ,brisse1 quoted1 #cb1 #ahj1 #cdd1 #cga1 #dje1 #dag2 as a gastronomer1 #bbg-bbh2 his splendid gastronomic axiom1 #bbh ,barras 7,vicomte de71 dinner of1 #fe ,bary1 referred to1 #bdf ,basting1 importance of1 #bbh ,baudelaire 7,charles71 referred to1 #dde ,beauvilliers1 referred to1 #f1 #fi1 #gj1 #aii1 #bjb1 #bac1 #chf1 #dce2 quoted1 #ga1 #aaj1 #bcd1 #ddb ,bchamel1 referred to1 #ed-ee ,beecher 7,rev4 ,henry ,ward71 on pies1 #dcf ,beef1 baron of1 a royal dish1 #ib2 sirloin of1 its origin1 #ii ,beer1 quotation in praise of1 #ade ,beer-gardens1 ,german1 #aea et seq4 ,beers1 of ,germany1 #afc-afd1 #afh ,bellone 7,dr4 de la71 on the truffle1 #cij1 #cie ,bndictine1 liqueur of1 its history1 #bhc-bhd ,branger1 poem on the restaurant1 #adj ,berchoux1 referred to1 #eh1 #gb1 #ahd2 his poem on gastronomy1 #gc et seq41 #che ,bernard 7,gentil71 referred to1 #gc ,bertinazzi 7,carlin71 referred to1 #abi ,beverages1 importance of1 #d2 their relation to national cookery1 #aea-aeb1 #afc-afd ,bignon1 anecdotes of1 #cdb-cdc ,bishop 7a7 of ,burgundy1 anecdote of1 #cjd ,blaze de ,bury1 on women1 #dcc ,blot 7,pierre71 #dce ,boar1 the wild1 #bf1 #ci1 #bcd1 #bcf1 #bdc1 #bdf-bdg1 #cff ,boar's-head1 carols on the1 #ia1 #ic ,boileau1 axiom on punctuality1 #bfi ,boiling1 a primitive method of cooking1 #aa ,boke of ,keruynge1 quoted1 #he-hg ,boke of ,nurture1 quoted1 #hd-he ,bonaparte1 ,napoleon1 as a gastronomer1 #gf ,bonnechose 7,cardinal71 his famous mot1 #bhd ,bossuet1 his ,oraison ,funbre referred to1 #bcb ,bramble 7,mathew71 referred to1 #cbd ,bratwurst-,glcklein1 #afc ,breadstuffs1 the first1 #g2 used by the early ,english1 #hc ,breckenridge 7,vice-,pres471 anecdote of1 #bec-bee ,bront 7,charlotte71 on the curate's dinner1 #bhh ,brouwer 7,adrian71 referred to1 #dde ,browne 7,wm471 sonnet on the mushroom1 #djj ,bryant1 ,lines to a ,waterfowl1 #bib ,bubble and ,squeak1 #bgh ,buckland 7,frank71 referred to1 #bdc ,buffon1 anecdote of1 #che ,bulwer1 on the fox1 #afa ,csar1 his prodigal feasts1 #dd ,caf 7vide also ,restaurant17 ,vry1 referred to1 #f1 #eb1 #bac1 #bbj1 #beh2 ,voisin1 referred to1 #eb2 ,hardy1 referred to1 #eb1 #fi1 #bbj2 ,riche1 referred to1 #eb1 #bbj1 #bej2 ,vfour1 referred to1 #bac1 #beh2 de ,paris1 referred to1 #bad1 #bai1 #bbj1 #bba1 #bbb1 #beh2 its great vogue in the '#dj's1 #bai2 ,anglais1 referred to1 #bbj1 #beh2 ,philippe1 referred to1 #beh ,caligula1 referred to1 #dc ,cambacrs1 as a gastronomer1 #fi1 #bje2 referred to1 #aie ,camerani 7,m471 referred to1 #abi ,capon 7the71 as a favourite of the clergy1 #cjf ,caraway-seed1 abuse of1 in ,germany1 #afi ,carme1 referred to1 #ac1 #gj1 #aid1 #aii-bjg1 #baa1 #bbc1 #bbi1 #cdh-cdi1 #cej1 #che1 #djh1 #ddc2 eulogy of1 #bjg ,carp 7the71 as a favourite of the clergy1 #cjf1 #cjh ,carver1 ,vatel's definition of a1 #fj ,carving1 importance of1 #hg1 #ach2 a novel monastic method of1 #cjg ,castle of ,indolence 7,the71 quoted1 #bch ,cpes4 ,vide ,mushrooms ,charles ,,ii1 as an epicure1 #ii ,chteauroux 7,duchesse de71 #fc ,chatillon-,plessis1 gastronomical axiom of1 #bfe ,cheese1 ,martin ,schookius' book on1 #adf2 ,german varieties of1 #afg2 its proper place at dinner1 #bfc2 its place and mission at dinner1 #ddj ,child 7,theodore71 as a false dietetic mentor1 #dag ,civet of hare1 #ea ,clar1 #if ,claudius1 his great dining-room1 #dc ,clergy 7the71 elaborate banquets given by1 #ij2 table excesses of1 in old ,alsace1 #adi4 ,vide also individual references ,climate vs4 alimentation1 #afh1 #bgj1 #ccd ,clough 7,arthur ,hugh71 poem on ,the ,dinner1 #ccf ,cobbe's ,prophecies1 quoted1 #hj ,cocktail1 physiology of the1 #aif ,coffee1 remote use of1 #i ,colbert1 referred to1 #ee ,compleat ,housewife 7,the71 ,mrs4 ,e4 ,smith's1 #ih1 #ajf1 #aji ,compleat ,practical ,cook 7,the71 ,charles ,carter's1 #ajc ,compots1 #aeg1 #agd1 #dcb ,cond 7,prince de71 referred to1 #ed1 #eh1 #fj ,contades 7,marchal de71 referred to1 #aei ,cook1 ,montaigne's reference to a1 #ea-eb2 ,berchoux's reference to a1 #gd2 importance of a good1 #aac2 attributes necessary for a good1 #bjc1 #bjg2 anecdote of a new1 #bei2 anecdote of a1 #cic ,cook-book1 the ideal1 defined1 #ddb-ddf ,cook-books1 early ,italian1 #di2 early ,spanish1 #ej2 early ,french1 #eb2 early ,english1 #ha et seq41 #cag2 #agth-century ,english1 #ic et seq42 old ,german1 #adg-adh1 #aej2 modern 7vide specific references71 written by the clergy1 #bha ,cookery1 its relation to life and health1 #c1 #gj1 #ga1 #bea1 #beg-beh1 #bhf1 #dcj2 modern progress in1 #d2 vs4 matrimony1 #f2 ,italian school of1 #f1 #di1 #ea1 #aie2 compared to painting1 #f1 #bjc2 in ,biblical times1 #g1 #h1 #i2 of the ancient ,persians1 #aa1 #ab2 of the ancient ,greeks1 #ac et seq42 of the ancient ,sicilians1 #ad2 of the ancient ,romans1 #bd et seq42 period of its greatest distinction in ,rome1 #be2 decline of ancient1 #dh2 vs4 literature and art1 #dh2 the renaissance of1 #di et seq42 of ,spain1 #ej1dbc2 its relation to the mind1 #fd1 #agf2 vs4 diplomacy1 #gj2 home vs4 the haute-cuisine1 #gb1 #cej1 #dbi2 cry of its decadence1 #gi1 #beh2 ,parisian school of1 in ,england1 #ii2 of the ,english rural classes1 #aja1 #ajb2 modern ,english1 #aaa1 #bfi et seq42 importance of good writers on1 #aac1 #aii2 period of its greatest distinction in ,france1 #aaf2 complementary to national beverages1 #aea1 #aec2 excellence of ,german1 #aef1 #agd2 ,carme's and the ,marquis de ,cussy's opinion of old ,roman1 #bja2 of ,america1 #bdi et seq42 of the modern ,french1 #bei 7vide also special references72 its relation to the church1 #bhj et seq42 a difficult art1 #ddb4 ,vide also ,gastronomy ,cooking-schools1 #bea1 #bfj ,cooks1 jealousy of1 #ad1 #bjb2 regulating the health of1 #acf ,cook's ,oracle 7,the71 #caf et seq4 ,cordon-bleu1 origin of the term1 #fb ,cucumber1 remote use of1 #i2 its virtues1 #dbe ,cuisine1 the ideal1 defined1 #beh ,cuisine classique 7the71 #bjj ,cuisinier ,parisien 7,le71 quoted1 #bjc2 referred to1 #bjf1 #cdi ,curaoa sec1 as a digestive1 #aib ,cur1 anecdote of a1 #bic ,cussy 7,marquis de71 referred to1 #fg1 #abg1 #baa1 #bac1 #bbe1 #cje2 quoted1 #abj1 #aha1 #bja1 #cdf1 #chc1 #djh ,cuyp1 referred to1 #f1 #bjc1 #bde ,davis1 ,lieutenant-,colonel ,newnham1 #ccg-cci ,de ,candolle1 referred to1 #bef ,deffand 7,mme4 du71 on strawberries1 #add ,delavigne 7,cassimir71 on dinners1 #aab ,dlices de la ,campagne 7,les71 #ei ,dlille 7l',abb71 on gardening1 #ga ,de ,quincey on midday dining1 #adf ,de re ,culinaria1 #bi1 #da1 #ej ,dsaugiers1 poem on women1 #aai ,dessert1 its mission defined1 #dcj2 etymology of the term1 #dch ,dickens 7,charles71 on dining1 #cbi ,dinner1 hours of1 #hc2 a good one1 a simple one1 #aaf1 #cbj1 #cbb1 #cbd2 punctuality at1 #abf1 #bfi1 #bia1 #cah1 #cai2 a wineless1 #abg1 #bfc-bff1 #bid1 #bie2 inhuman hours of1 #ade-adf1 #aej2 its true hygienic hour1 #adf1 #bfh1 #bfi2 ,savarin's definition of a perfect1 #aij2 ,carme's classic1 at the ,baron ,rothschild's villa1 #bjj2 ,dumas' definition of a good1 #bac2 of the ,vicomte de ,viel-,castel1 #bad2 the ,sunday engorgement1 #bff2 evils of the theatre1 #bfg2 a good1 as defined by an eminent ,baptist ecclesiast1 #bii2 by the ,ettrick ,shepherd1 #cji2 by ,thackeray1 #cae2 by ,kitchener1 #cah2 by the ,earl of ,dudley1 #cbj2 ,french definition of a perfect1 #cbj2 importance of variety in the bill of fare1 #cbi2 the graceful liar as an adjunct to1 #cca2 ,arthur ,hugh ,clough's poem on the1 #ccf ,dinners1 poor company1 #abf1 #bfa1 #cba1 #cbi2 ministerial1 #aie2 similarity of1 #aie1 #cbe1 #cbh2 false etiquette of1 #cca ,dinners and ,diners1 #ccg-cci ,dish1 the first recorded1 #g ,dishes1 new1 #gb1 #cec1 #chj2 testing of1 #ace2 ,hungarian1 #afg2 abuse of certain1 #bfa ,dom ,gobelot1 anecdote of1 #caj ,domitian1 referred to1 #dc ,dom ,prignon1 the inventor of champagne1 #bhc ,don ,quixote1 referred to1 #ej ,double ,almanach ,gourmand 7,le71 referred to1 #cdj ,douw 7,grard71 referred to1 #aig ,drayton 7,michael71 quoted1 #cfj ,dreams1 viands provocative of1 #aig ,drinking-,cups1 of the ancients1 #ca ,du ,barry 7,mme471 a supper of1 #fb ,dubufe1 referred to1 #bcd ,duck1 wild1 the art of carving a1 #hg2 ,when ,father carves the 7poem71 #hg2 canvasback1 #bdi1 #cfi2 canvasback1 ,rev4 ,joseph ,barber's poem on1 #bib2 wild1 #cei1 #cff1 #cfi ,dumas 7,alexandre71 quoted1 #e1 #di1 #ef1 #bjf1 #bac1 #bad1 #bbd1 #bbe1 #chc2 referred to1 #aca1 #adi1 #baa-bbe1 #cba2 as a cook1 #baa2 as a gastronomer1 #bba2 anecdote of1 as a chef1 #bbb1 #bbc ,dumas fils 7,alexandre71 referred to1 #e ,dumonteil 7,fulbert71 his saying about truffles1 #aj ,eating1 evils of irregular1 #bfg ,egyptians1 table appointments of1 #aj ,elephant1 proper sauce to eat one with1 #cde ,ely 7,rev4 ,joseph ,a471 translation of poem on the pig1 #bcb ,emerson1 his mot on pies1 #dcg ,emetics1 use of1 among the ancients1 #ae ,english1 meals of the early1 #hb2 not appreciative of fine cooking1 #baj1 #bgd ,englishman in ,paris 7,an71 quoted1 #bbb ,epicure1 definition of an1 #abh1 #aca ,epicurean 7,the71 referred to1 #cec ,epicurus1 his maxims1 #ae ,evelyn 7,john71 on salads1 #daa ,exercise1 virtues of1 #ge1 #cgh ,faerie ,queene 7,the71 quoted1 #bce ,fairy-rings4 ,vide ,mushrooms ,fayot 7,m471 quoted1 #c1 #e2 referred to1 #cba ,feasts of ,autolycus 7,the71 quoted1 #cdc ,fte champtre4 ,vide ,a shooting jaunt ,fieldfare1 #cfa ,fig-pecker 7the71 #dd1 #aib1 #cfa ,fish1 fondness of the old ,latins for1 #bf2 days in ,elizabeth's era1 #ij1 #cjh2 omelettes and pts of1 #adi2 variety and superiority of ,american1 #bea2 its complementary wine1 #cji2 proper cookery of1 #cfh ,flamingo 7the71 as a table bird1 #dd ,fletcher 7,john71 quoted1 #if ,flint cracker1 origin of the1 #bfc ,fouquet1 referred to1 #ed1 #ee1 #eh ,francatelli1 referred to1 #f1 #ajf1 #aii1 #bjh1 #bbf1 #cej ,france 7,anatole71 his mot on the pt de ,chartres1 #dcd ,frederick the ,great1 his poem to his cook1 #adf ,frog 7the71 his first leap into the frying-pan1 #aej ,fruit1 after dinner1 #bfg ,fruits1 the first cultivated1 #i2 glass-grown in ,england1 #bgc2 superiority of those of western ,new ,york1 #bgd ,frying1 theory of1 #agi ,fuger 7,bishop71 anecdote of1 #caj et seq4 ,game1 ,savarin's references to1 #aib1 #aic1 #aig2 ,anthony ,hayward on its cookery1 #ccc2 preservation and protection of1 #ceg-ceh2 definition of the term1 #ceh2 effect of food upon flavour of1 #cei-cfj1 #cfb-cfc1 #cgj2 proper wines to accompany1 #cgb2 species1 haunts1 pursuit1 protection1 value1 and cookery of1 ,vide chapter ,the ,spoils of the ,cover ,garum1 of the ancients1 #df ,gastaldy 7,dr471 anecdote of1 #abj2 as an epicure1 #acj ,gastronomer1 the ideal1 defined1 #ddb-ddf ,gastronomic tests1 ,savarin's illustration of1 #aij ,gastronomy1 ,archestratus' lost poem on1 #ac2 ,berchoux's poem on1 #gc-gf1 #ahd2 as defined by ,m4 de ,borose1 #ha2 as defined by ,la ,reynire1 #abh2 ,french vs4 ,german1 #ade1 #aea1 #aeb2 finesse of its ethics1 #aeg-aeh2 one of the most important arts1 #agf2 as defined by the ,dictionnaire de la ,conversation1 #ahd2 as defined by ,savarin1 #ahd2 cry of its decadence1 #aid2 its mainspring the pig1 #bbi et seq42 as promoted by the religious orders1 #bhe et seq41 #cce2 in relation to sauces1 #cde2 ,st4 ,ange's disquisition on1 #cgh-cha2 in relation to sport1 #ced1 #cef1 #dde4 ,vide also ,cookery1 ,dinners1 and individual references ,gavarni1 his mot on the mushroom1 #djg ,gemthlichkeit1 of the ,germans1 #aec1 #agd ,grard 7,charles71 referred to1 #adh-aej ,gerarde1 quoted1 #bef1 #djj1 #daa ,gibson 7,w4 ,hamilton71 #djf1 #djg ,glacer la flamme1 #bjc ,glatigny 7,albert71 quoted1 #fc1 #cda ,gluttony1 as defined by woman1 #cdc ,goethe1 referred to1 #adg1 #dcj2 poem on game1 #afi ,goldsmith 7,oliver71 quoted1 #ajh ,gonthier 7,johann71 referred to1 #eb ,good-will1 a sportsman's waste of1 #cha ,goose 7the71 merits of1 in ,germany1 #aef2 in ,strassburg and ,alsace1 #aei-afa2 and applesauce1 #bdd ,goret 7,la ,mort du71 poem1 #bcb ,gouff 7,jules71 referred to1 #aii1 #bbe-bbf1 #bbg1 #bbi1 #dde ,gourmand1 ,la ,reynire's definition of a1 #abg-abh ,gourmandise1 as defined by ,savarin1 #ahf2 vs4 beauty1 #ahg2 ,grard 7,charles71 quoted1 #aii ,gout1 #adc1 #bgj1 #cdf1 #ddd2 prevalence of1 among the ancients1 #df2 prevalence of in ,england1 #if1 #ajb2 vs4 pt de foie gras1 #afb ,grace before meat1 #bia1 #big ,graces1 the three spirituous1 #aif ,grad' aus dem ,wirthshaus1 ,german convivial song1 #agc ,grand ,dictionnaire de ,cuisine1 #baa et seq4 ,greeks1 meals of the ancient1 #ai2 gluttony of the ancient1 #bc ,greeley 7,horace71 anecdote of1 #bci ,grog1 origin of the word1 #ig ,grouse1 ruffed1 #cef1 #cei1 #cfd1 #cff1 #cgj1 #cge1 #cgf1 #daa2 pinnated1 or prairie-chicken1 #cfc1 #cfe ,hafiz1 quoted1 #dbc ,hagenmark1 #dcb ,hamerton1 referred to1 #bdc ,hare1 first catch your1 origin of the term1 #aaj ,harvest-home1 poem on the celebration of1 #aja ,hasenbraten and ,hasenpfeffer1 #afh ,hayward 7,abraham71 referred to1 #cca et seq4 ,hayward 7,anthony71 on a chaplain's appetite1 #bhh ,heidelberg1 a dinner at the ,wolfsbrunnen1 #aeb ,heliogabalus1 gluttony of his reign1 #df-dh2 inventor of vol-au-vent la financire1 #dh ,henry ,,viii1 his fondness for sweets1 #dcj ,herodotus1 quoted1 #aj ,herrick1 quoted1 #gi1 #ajb ,herring1 the marinirte1 #afg ,hertford 7,lord71 anecdote of1 #ccc ,hervilly 7,ernest d'71 referred to1 #bcc ,hippocras1 #eg1 #ic1 #id1 #if ,hirztag1 a strange custom of that festival1 #aej ,hollar1 quoted1 #ceh ,homer1 quoted1 #bj ,hone 7,wm471 poem on mince-pie1 #dce ,hood 7,thomas71 referred to1 #caf ,horace1 quoted1 #aa1 #bf1 #ci1 #dj1 #aac1 #cih2 referred to1 #ch1 #ci2 his fondness for sweets1 #dbh-dbi ,host1 a delicate1 as defined by ,la ,reynire1 #aci2 vs4 guest1 ,baron ,brisse's aphorism on1 #bbh2 his duty to his guests1 #bfd-bfe1 #ccj-cca ,housewife1 troubles of the1 #bfj ,hugo 7,victor71 referred to1 #cda ,hunt 7,leigh71 on pig-driving1 #bci ,ice-cream1 discoverer of1 #dcd ,indian summer1 poem on1 #cgc ,indigestion1 ,la ,reynire on the causes of1 #acc ,ingoldsby 7,thomas71 referred to1 #bhi2 quoted1 #bhj1 #bia1 #cjf1 #dch ,jacque 7,charles71 referred to1 #bcc1 #bde ,janin 7,jules71 referred to1 #e1 #baa1 #bac1 #cdh1 #dde ,jefferies 7,richard71 on feasting the chapel-pastor1 #bhg ,johnson 7,dr471 quoted1 #aaa1 #bdh ,jordaens1 referred to1 #f ,jury dgustateur 7the71 #abj et seq4 ,juvenal1 referred to1 #cd1 #cg1 #dj2 quoted1 #cg1 #db ,kalendare de ,potages dyuers1 #hh1 #ij ,kempis 7,thomas 71 his fondness for salmon1 #cji ,king 7,wm471 poem on cookery1 #bgi ,kitchener 7,dr4 ,wm471 referred to1 #ajf ,kuchen1 merits of the ,german1 #afi1 #agd ,kuchenmeisterey1 #aga ,la ,bruyre1 quoted1 #bbi1 #chj ,lacroix 7,octave71 his tribute to ,dumas1 #baa ,la ,fontaine1 referred to1 #aaf ,laguipire1 referred to1 #f1 #bja1 #bjb ,lamb 7,charles71 referred to1 #ag1 #bci1 #bdj-bdb1 #dcj2 his apology to the pig1 #bdj ,lampridius1 quoted1 #dg ,larding 7art of71 its discoverer1 #bha ,la ,reynire 7,grimod de71 referred to1 #ff1 #gb1 #aab et seq41 #agh1 #aif1 #bac1 #bbe1 #cag1 #ccf1 #cfa1 #ddc2 poem of1 #aag2 quoted1 #aah1 #bcc1 #bcf1 #bhg1 #cde1 #cdh1 #chc1 #daa2 his home kitchen1 #aca1 #acb2 as a gastronomer1 #acb2 denounced by ,savarin1 #aeh2 his tribute to ,savarin1 #agg4 ,vide also l',almanach des ,gourmands ,la ,rochefoucauld1 quoted1 #e ,leckerbissen and ,frauenessen1 #agb ,lennox 7,lady71 anecdote of1 #cce ,liar1 charm of the accomplished1 #cca ,liqueurs 7celebrated71 of monastic invention1 #bhc-bhe ,livre de ,cuisine 7,le71 #bbe ,locust 7the71 as an article of diet1 #g ,louis ,,xiii1 as a gastronomer1 #ec2 ,,xiv1 as a gastronomer1 #fd et seq42 ,,xv1 as a gastronomer1 #fa2 ,,xviii1 as a gastronomer1 #gf1 #gh ,lucullus1 as an epicure1 #da-dc2 referred to1 #de1 #bjj1 #bja ,luncheon1 an ideal woodland1 #cge et seq4 ,lyne 7,bishop de71 referred to1 #adi ,macaroni1 ,dr4 ,gastaldy on1 #abj ,macaroni1 ,rossini's lost recipe for1 #bbj ,madeleine 7the71 ,dumas' story of1 #afi ,mcenas1 referred to1 #ch1 #ci ,magee 7,bishop71 anecdote of1 #cid ,mahony 7,rev4 ,francis71 poem on pt de foie gras1 #afa2 his ,watergrasshill ,carousal1 #cji ,maintenon 7,mme4 de71 referred to1 #fg1 #fc1 #cdj ,matre d'htel1 duties and importance of the1 #acf-ach1 #bjd ,matre d',htel ,franais 7,le71 #bjf ,manuel des ,amphitryons1 quoted1 #fi2 referred to1 #ic-ie ,markham 7,gervaise71 referred to1 #ic-ie2 quoted1 #dji ,marriage1 ,balzac's definition of1 #cea ,martial1 quoted1 #bd1 #ca1 #cc1 #dd2 referred to1 #cg1 #ch1 #dj ,marvell 7,andrew71 referred to1 #ha1 #beb ,mauri 7,cardinal71 his fondness for ,est1 ,est1 ,est1 #caa ,mead1 its composition1 #ig ,medici 7,catherine de71 #eb1 #dcc ,melons1 #i1 #bgc1 #bih ,memoirs of a ,stomach1 quoted1 #bga ,memorials of ,gormandizing1 #cbi ,metheglin1 #if1 #ih1 #dci ,metzelsuppe1 ,uhland's poem on1 #aff ,mzeray 7,mlle471 referred to1 #aag-aai1 #abe1 #abf ,mind vs4 stomach1 #e ,mistletoe-thrush1 #cfa ,modern ,cook 7,the71 #bjh ,mohrenkeller1 of ,nrnberg1 #afc ,molire1 referred to1 #eg1 #eh1 #aac ,monselet 7,charles71 quoted1 #age1 #aid1 #bjf1 #bfd2 referred to1 #baa1 #bbe1 #bcb1 #cdj ,montaigne1 quoted1 #f1 #ea1 #bjj1 #cgf1 #dad2 referred to1 #adg1 #bhc ,montauron 7,seigneur de71 #ed ,montausier 7,duc de71 #ed1 #ee ,montespan 7,mme4 de71 #eh1 #fc ,montgomery 7,james71 poem on the daisy1 #dbd ,morellet 7l',abb71 anecdote of1 #cjd ,morgan 7,lady71 referred to1 #fb2 quoted1 #bjj ,mouchy 7,marchal de71 anecdote of1 #fd ,moynier 7,m4 ,m471 referred to1 #cid1 #cif ,mller 7,wilhelm71 poem of1 quoted1 #caa ,mullet1 a much-valued fish1 #cb1 #dg2 origin of the name1 #cc ,murger 7,henri71 referred to1 #cda ,mushrooms1 #cfb2 species1 qualities1 history1 haunts1 literature1 and cookery of1 #cig-djh ,musset 7,alfred de71 quoted1 #bai ,mutton1 ,pr-,sal and ,southdown1 #cei1 #chj ,napoleon ,i1 as a gastronomer1 #fa ,nasidienus1 the feast of1 #ci1 #dj ,nero1 his ,domus aurea1 #dc ,ninon de l',enclos1 referred to1 #age1 #agh1 #bjj ,north1 7,christopher71 #cji1 #caf ,nouvel ,almanach des ,gourmands1 quoted1 #bbj ,nudels1 #afg ,oaks1 list of truffle-producing1 #cia ,oil and vinegar1 #dae-daf ,old ,cookery ,books1 quoted1 #bge ,olive-oil1 remote use of1 #h ,olla podrida1 #ej2 en grande1 #ej ,omelette 7the cur's71 anecdote of1 #bii-cjb ,onderdonk 7,bishop71 anecdote of1 #bie ,onion1 an ancient vegetable1 #i2 tribe1 virtues of the1 #ajj1 #ajg1 #bca1 #chg ,original 7,the71 #cai et seq4 ,orsay 7,comte d'71 on ,french cookery1 #beh ,ortolans1 #gf1 #cfa ,ostade1 referred to1 #gd1 #dde ,oudry1 referred to1 #bcd ,ovens1 ,carme's remarks on1 #bjb ,oyster-beds1 first artificial1 #bg ,oysters1 ancient modes of cooking1 #hi2 superiority of ,american1 #beb ,pain perdu1 #hi ,painting1 ,italian school of1 #f1 #dh1 #bde2 ,dutch and ,flemish schools of1 #f1 #bdf1 #dde2 ,french school of1 #bdf ,panthropeon1 or ,history of ,food 7,the71 #ag1 #bji ,papabotte 7the71 #cfb-cfc ,parkinson 7,john71 #ha1 #daa ,parsley1 virtues of1 #ajf1 #bca ,pastry1 ,la ,reynire's definitions of1 #ach2 ,carme's definition of1 #bjb ,pte de foie gras1 #g1 #acj1 #aef1 #aeh1 #afa1 #afb1 #ahi1 #bce1 #bcf1 #cig2 ,la ,reynire's account of a1 #abc2 its history1 #aei2 d'crevisses1 #bjc2 de ,chartres1 #dcd ,ptissier franais 7,le71 #ei ,pennell 7,elizabeth ,robins71 quoted1 #ajg1 #cdb ,pensey 7,henrion de71 his famous gastronomic axiom1 #beb ,pepper1 superiority of adulterated1 #dag ,pepys 7,diary of71 quoted1 #ii-aja ,perdrix l'espagnol1 #ej ,perfumes1 use of1 at feasts1 #ac1 #bh ,petit-,radel 7,m471 anecdote of1 #gg ,petite ,cuisine 7,la71 #bbg ,petrarch1 on wine1 #bic ,petronius ,arbiter1 referred to1 #ce1 #cg ,pheasant 7the71 #bhi1 #cei ,philippe d',orlans1 as a gastronomer1 #fa ,philosopher's ,banquet 7,the71 quoted1 #ajf ,physicians1 as gastronomers1 #gh1 #bfg ,physiologie du ,got 7,la74 referred to and quoted1 #age et seq41 #bjf1 #cea1 #cie4 ,vide also ,savarin ,pie 7pumpkin71 its origin1 #bgc2 a game1 #cgb ,pies1 #bdi1 #dcj et seq42 wild boar1 #hi2 strange early ,english1 #ie ,pig 7the71 his popularity as a signboard1 #fg2 of ,westphalia and ,rothenburg1 #afd2 as a factor of gastronomy1 #bbi et seq42 ,dissertation sur le ,cochon1 #bca2 ,gli ,elogi del ,porco1 #bca2 ,m4 ,pouvoisin's eulogy of1 #bcb2 ,rev4 ,joseph ,a4 ,ely's eulogy of1 #bcb2 ,monselet's eulogy of1 #bcb2 ,southey's eulogy of1 #bcb2 ,la ,reynire's eulogies of1 #bcc1 #bcf2 ,ernest d',hervilly's sonnet to1 #bcc2 ,spenser's and ,thomson's unjust strictures on1 #bce1 #bch2 the ,southern razorback1 #bce1 #cjf2 fondness for truffles1 #bcf1 #chi2 ,leigh ,hunt's essay on1 #bci2 ,charles ,lamb's apology to the elder animal1 #bdj2 as a retriever of game1 #bdd2 a ,german eulogy of1 #bdd2 his influence upon the polite arts1 #bde-bdf2 ,rti-,cochon1 #bfa1 #dad ,pig-,driving1 ,on the ,graces and ,anxieties of1 #bci ,planked shad1 origin of1 #bec et seq4 ,pliny1 quoted1 #ca2 referred to1 #dj1 #chd1 #cie ,plover1 upland or grass1 #cfa et seq4 ,plum-porridge1 #dce ,plum-pudding1 and history of1 #ccd1 #dcd-dce ,pompadour 7,marquise de71 #fc ,pope1 quoted1 #hc1 #ajc ,pork1 the favourite dish of the ancients1 #ag2 origin of1 #bcj ,pork-pie1 #hi ,porridge1 use of1 by the ancients1 #bd ,potato1 history of the1 #bee-bef1 #cjf ,potatoes1 in ,england1 #bgb1 #ccj ,pot-au-feu1 importance of the1 #bbd ,propertius1 quoted1 #ch ,prout 7,father74 ,vide ,rev4 ,francis ,mahony ,psalm1 a penitential1 #bhf ,puff-balls4 ,vide ,mushrooms ,punch1 origin of the word1 #ig ,punctuality4 ,vide ,dinner1 punctuality at ,pumpkin1 an ancient vegetable1 #i ,quail1 #cfc1 #cfe1 #cff1 #cge1 #chb ,recipes ,a ,blue-violet ,salad 7,the ,story of ,my ,house71 #dbf ,a ,bride's ,pie 7,mrs4 ,glasse71 #aaj ,a good brown gravy 7,mrs4 ,glasse71 #aji ,a liver-pudding boiled 7,mrs4 ,glasse71 #aji ,bakewell pudding1 #bgf ,bouillon1 ,dumas' mode of preparing1 #bbd ,brook trout 7,savarin71 #agi2 7,baron ,brisse's formulas71 #ahj ,cabbage1 ,apicius' recipes for1 #bi ,cpes 7,vuillemot's recipe for71 #dje ,chicken1 ,artimidor's recipe for1 #ah ,cock ale1 ,markham's formula for1 #ih ,dish of ,roses 7the74 ,laurentius' recipe for1 #ah ,flounder-souchy 7,kitchener71 #cbg ,gigot de mouton la ,richelieu 7,st4 ,ange71 #chj ,guisado1 the ,spanish1 #ea ,how to collar a pig 7,mrs4 ,smith71 #aji ,how to roast a pig 7,mrs4 ,glasse71 #aaj ,kalter ,aufschnitt1 #afi ,mutton ,cutlets 7,mrs4 ,walter ,ellis71 #bgf ,partridge aux choux 7,baron ,brisse71 #cga ,pheasant la ,sainte-,alliance 7,savarin71 #aic ,potage aux choux 7,dumas71 #bbd ,quail la financire 7,gouff71 #bbf ,roast goose l'allemande1 #aeg ,sack-posset 7,sir ,fleetwood ,fletcher71 #dci ,sauce for venison1 mutton1 and game 7,francatelli71 #bjh2 for green geese and ducklings1 #bgh2 la ,schnberg 7,her ,gracious ,serenity71 #ceb ,spare-rib 7,charles ,lamb's new formula71 #bdb ,the ,cur's ,omelette 7,savarin71 #cjb ,the hunter's sandwich1 #dda ,ranhofer 7,charles71 referred to1 #cec ,rcamier 7,mme471 referred to1 #cjj ,reed-birds1 #cei1 #cfa ,rembrandt1 referred to1 #f ,restaurants1 first ,parisian1 #fd1 #ff2 excessive charges of ,parisian1 #adj1 #bbj1 #cdb2 ,bignon1 referred to1 #bai2 ,american1 #bej2 advantage of dining at1 #cci2 ,glatigny's sonnet on1 #cda2 ,bignon's1 #cda-cdc2 ,trois ,frres ,proveneaux1 referred to1 #beh2 a dinner at1 in #ahfj1 #big2 ,english1 #bgj1 #bge1 #cch4 ,vide also ,cafs1 and specific references ,retz 7,cardinal de71 referred to1 #aga ,rveill-,parise 7,dr471 referred to1 #cci ,richelieu 7,cardinal de71 #ed1 #cjb1 #chj2 7,marchal1 ,duc de71 #cjc1 #cdh ,riquette1 referred to1 #bjb ,ristori 7,mme471 referred to1 #bbj ,roasting1 as defined by the ,marquis de ,cussy1 #abj ,robert1 referred to1 #f1 #fi1 #aid1 #bja1 #bjb ,rocher de ,cancale 7restaurant of71 #eb1 #aae1 #aag1 #aah1 #ahg1 #bba2 a celebrated menu of1 #adj-adb ,rohan 7,cardinal71 referred to1 #aej ,romans1 luxury of the ancient1 #be et seq42 meals of the ancient1 #bg ,ronsard1 referred to1 #eb2 quoted1 #gi ,roques 7,joseph71 #djh ,royal ,cookery 7,patrick ,lamb's71 #ajb ,rubens1 referred to1 #f1 #bde ,ruffs and reeves1 #cce ,ruysdael1 referred to1 #f ,sack-posset1 #if ,st4 ,ange1 gastronomic homily of1 #cgh-chb ,ste4 ,beuve1 quoted1 #cha ,saint-,simon1 quoted1 #ee ,salad1 #cfb2 virtues of1 as defined by ,savarin1 #cja1 #daa2 virtues of1 as defined by ,la ,reynire1 #daa2 its mission and place at the dinner1 #dah ,salads1 remote use of1 #aj ,salmis4 ,la ,reynire's lost monastic recipe for1 #bhf ,sandpiper 7,bartramian74 ,vide ,plover and ,papabotte ,sanzai 7,archbishop71 anecdote of1 #cjd ,sardanapalus1 as a gastronomer1 #ab ,sauce1 a good1 as defined by ,baron ,brisse1 #ccd2 a good1 as defined by ,la ,reynire1 #cde2 anchovy1 #cde2 7a good71 its qualification1 #cdi ,sauce tartare1 a novel1 #bef ,sauces old ,english1 #hd2 best for brook trout1 #aia2 7,francatelli's71 for mutton and game1 #bji1 #cfh2 7,english71 #bgg2 merits of1 #bdi1 #cde2 ,harvey's1 origin and anecdote of1 #bgg2 bread1 #bhi1 #cfh2 their relation to gastronomy1 #cde2 ,marquis de ,cussy on1 #cdf2 mayonnaise1 its history and etymology1 #cdh-cdi1 #dba2 la ,schnberg1 #ceb2 a list of1 for the home cuisine1 #ceb2 apple1 #cfh2 la ,richelieu1 #cha ,saucier 7the71 #cdf ,sauerkraut1 #cga2 when invented1 #aej2 7,french71 not to be commended1 #bbc ,sausages1 the ,german the master-maker of1 #aeb1 #dbc2 ,german species and varieties of1 #afc-aff ,savarin1 referred to1 #ge1 #aac1 #aad1 #bbe1 #cje1 #cea1 #cgj1 #dcd1 #ddc2 denounced by ,m4 de ,courchamps1 #aeh2 as a gastronomer1 #aha1 #bjf2 his discourtesy to ,la ,reynire1 #aie2 poem of1 #aig2 quoted1 #cjj-cjb1 #chc1 #cie1 #daa4 ,vide also ,physiologie du ,got 7,la7 ,scott 7,sir ,walter71 referred to1 #cji ,seasonings1 used by the ancients1 #bh-cj2 used by the ,english1 #hc1 #ajh2 importance of1 #ddf ,seneca1 quoted1 #e1 #ca1 #cb1 #da1 #df2 referred to1 #dj1 #dd ,svign 7,marquis de71 referred to1 #age1 #bjj ,shakespeare1 quoted1 #bdf1 #dda ,shelley1 referred to1 #bcd ,shooting jaunt1 a1 #cge et seq4 ,shuttleworth 7,canon71 his famous grace1 #bia ,signboards 7old71 and their mottoes1 #fg ,smell 7the71 its influence on the taste1 #ahb ,smith 7,rev4 ,sydney71 his mot on pt de foie gras1 #aeh2 gastronomic anecdote of1 #bdi2 his mot on the pheasant1 #bhf2 his poem on roast mutton1 #bij2 on fanatics1 #bid2 his poem on salad1 #dab ,sneyders1 referred to1 #f1 #bcd1 #dde ,snipe1 #cef1 #cei1 #cfe1 #cff1 #daa ,socit des ,mereredis1 #aah1 #abi1 #acj ,solomon1 his table1 #aa ,sora1 or rail 7the71 #cfj ,soubise 7,prince de71 anecdote of his chef1 #cg ,soup1 bisque d'crevisses1 #aej2 aux choux1 #bbd2 crote-au-pot1 #bbd1 #bge2 ,julienne1 #bha2 first mention of1 #bha ,soupers de la ,cour 7,les71 #fb ,soups1 ,german1 #afg ,southey1 referred to1 #bcb ,soyer1 referred to1 #ag1 #ajf1 #aii1 #bji-baj ,spartan black broth1 #ac ,sptzle1 #afg ,speaking-tube1 invented by ,la ,reynire1 #abf ,speisekarte1 a typical1 #aed ,spenser1 quoted1 #bce2 referred to1 #bch ,sport4 ,vide chapter ,the ,spoils of the ,cover ,stimulants1 before dinner1 #aif ,stomach 7the71 its joys and sorrows1 #e2 its offices1 #bfg1 #cag1 #cai ,strawberries vs4 gout1 #adc1 #dcb ---- ---- ---- 7,rev4 ,dr471 anecdote of1 #bif-bii ,sweetmeats1 #cgi ,sweet potato1 #bef ,sydney 7,sir ,robert71 anecdote of1 #hi ,tables volantes1 #fb ,talleyrand 7,prince de71 as a gastronomer1 #fi1 #bjb ,talon 7,joseph71 discoverer of truffle culture1 #chh ,taste 7the71 ,savarin's analysis of1 #aha-ahd2 influence of smell on1 #ahb ,teniers1 referred to1 #f1 #dde ,tennyson1 referred to1 #caf ,thackeray1 referred to1 #aei1 #aie1 #chg2 as a gastronomer1 #cae1 #cbi2 quoted1 #cbg1 #cdj ,thomson1 quoted1 #bch ,thoreau1 on the mushroom1 #djb1 #djc ,tiberius1 death from poisoned mushrooms1 #dc2 as an epicure1 #dd2 his fondness for cucumbers1 #dbe ,timon 7,bishop71 of ,buffalo1 anecdote of1 #bic ,toast1 a celebrated ,french1 to femininity1 #bhc ,toasts1 form of1 among the ancients1 #bg ,tobacco1 introduction of1 #bh ,total abstainer1 anecdote of a1 #bfe2 abstinence1 poem on1 #bie ,total abstainers vs4 guests1 #bfc-bff2 brandied peaches1 #dcc ,trimalchio1 dinner of1 #ce ,trout1 brook1 best sauce for1 #aha2 of the ,english chalk-streams1 #cfd2 ,american vs4 the ,european1 #cfe ,truffe 7,de la71 #cid ,truffe 7,la71 #cij ,truffles1 #adc1 #aei1 #baj1 #bce1 #dcd2 species1 qualities1 history1 cultivation1 cookery1 literature1 and phenomena of4 ,vide chapter ,two ,esculents par excellence ,turbot 7the71 #cc ,turkey1 a truffled1 #abb1 #cjd1 #che2 history of the1 #cjd1 #cje2 wild1 #cfi-cgj2 wild vs4 the domestic1 #cfi1 #cgj ,turtle feasts1 ,american1 #bfg ,ude1 referred to1 #f1 #ajf1 #aij1 #bjg ,uhland1 referred to1 #afc1 #aff ,ulric 7,st471 festival of1 #cjh ,urbain-,dubois1 referred to1 #aii1 #bbf ,van ,mieris1 referred to1 #aig ,vatel1 referred to1 #f1 #ed1 #eh1 #acj2 on carving1 #ei ,vegetables1 used by the ancients1 #i1 #aj1 #bh1 #bi2 poor cookery of1 in ,great ,britain1 #bgb2 importance of good1 #ccj ,verneuil 7,g4 de71 referred to1 #acj ,vron 7,dr471 anecdote of1 #bba2 on the restaurant1 #cci ,verres1 referred to1 #dc ,viel-,castel 7,vicomte de71 anecdote of1 #bad ,vienna roll 7the71 origin of1 #aga ,vincent ,la ,chapelle1 #fa ,vineyards 7celebrated71 first founded by the ecclesiasts1 #bhb ,virgil1 referred to1 #bcd ,vitellius1 referred to1 #dc1 #dd ,vol-au-vent la financire1 #bjc2 inventor of1 #dh ,vopallire 7,marquis de71 referred to1 #ga ,vuillemot1 referred to1 #bab1 #bac ,walker 7,thos471 #ajf1 #aie1 #cai et seq42 as a gastronomer1 #cbf ,walton 7,isaac71 referred to1 #ha ,ward 7,artemus71 his mot on hasty pudding1 #acd2 his mot on pies1 #dcg ,weenix1 referred to1 #bcd1 #dde ,wheat1 original home of1 #i ,wheatears1 #cce1 #cfa ,white 7,gilbert71 referred to1 #bdc1 #bgb2 quoted1 #cfj ,whitebait1 as eulogized by ,thackeray1 #cbh1 #chg ,whitefish 7the71 #de ,wines1 of the ancients1 #ac1 #ag1 #cj1 #dj2 of the ancient ,romans1 #cj2 in use in ,england1 #if-ih2 difficulty of testing1 #ace2 ,german1 #afh2 of old ,alsace1 #aei2 brut champagne1 #bfb1 #dca2 importance of good1 #bfb1 #bfd1 #bfe2 champagne1 #bfb1 #bgj1 #cbc1 #ccg1 #dch2 champagne1 its virtues1 #bhc1 #cgi2 their relation to the clergy1 #bhb1 #bia1 #bic1 #bie1 #cji et seq42 ,est1 ,est1 ,est1 history of1 #caj et seq42 importance of a sufficient variety1 #cbb-cbc2 their relation to game1 #cef1 #cgb2 to truffles and mushrooms1 #cid1 #djh2 ,chteau ,yquem1 crme1 of #ahfa and #ahfd1 #dbg2 as a medium of hygiene1 #ddd ,woman1 jealousy of1 #ad2 imitating man's excesses1 #df2 ,talleyrand's precept regarding1 #gi2 compared to peaches1 #aai2 as gastronomers1 #abe1 #cdc1 #cea2 ,la ,reynire's distinction of1 as guests1 #aci2 created for the selfish wishes of man1 #agd2 her fondness for sweetmeats1 #agd1 #dbi1 #dcj1 #dcc2 ,savarin's references to1 #aib2 as an addition to a shooting-party1 #aib-aic1 #cgh2 a ,french toast to1 #bhc2 as an adjunct to the dinner1 #cbj2 disadvantages of dining with1 #cch1 #cdj2 in the eighteenth century1 #cdg2 how she may hypnotise the sterner sex1 #cej1 #dbi2 a toast in sparkling ,st4 ,pray to her1 #cea2 ,balzac's reference to1 #cea2 the wise one defined1 #cea2 vs4 champagne1 #cgi1 #dbi2 compared to mushrooms1 #cih2 pretty one should mix a salad1 #dbj2 her relation to cookery1 #dbi2 a foil for man's mistakes1 #dca2 as a garnish to an omelette1 #dcb2 her pet tipples in colonial times1 #dch1 #dci ,woodcock1 #cee1 #cei1 #cfe1 #cff1 #cgf ,wordsworth1 referred to1 #bdj ,yellowshank 7the71 #cfa ,yuan ,mei1 quoted1 #f ,,footnotes3 #a ,that the onion1 garlic1 and radish were held in particular esteem is attested by ,herodotus1 who says in his time 7#dej ,b4,c47 there was an inscription on the ,great ,pyramid1 stating that a sum amounting to sixteen hundred talents had been paid out for these three forms of food1 which had been consumed by the workmen during the progress of its erection4 #b ,the world has scarcely been as liberal to literature as to gastronomy2 although the graceful ,french poet1 the ,abb ,philippe ,desportes1 who so celebrated his mistresses ,diane1 ,hypolite and ,clonice in verse1 was munificently rewarded for his lyrical talent by ,henry ,,iii1 and presented besides with an abbey worth an annual rental of ten thousand crowns for having written a sonnet which captivated the ,duc de ,joyeuse1 brother-in-law of the king4 #c ,rev4 ,philip ,francis' transl4 #d ,sir ,theodore ,martin's transl4 #e ,tobacco1 unknown to the ancients1 did not come into use among ,asiatic and ,european peoples until the latter half of the sixteenth century1 or a long period after the discovery of ,america--nearly all its species being of ,american origin4 ,its name1 ,nicotiana1 was derived from that of ,john ,nicot of ,nismes1 ambassador from the ,king of ,france to ,portugal1 who procured the first seeds from a ,dutchman who had them from ,florida4 #f ,rev4 ,philip ,francis' transl4 #g ,my red wing gives me my name2 but it is my tongue that is considered savory by epicures4 ,what if my tongue had been able to sing8--,,martial1 ,epigrams3 ,the ,flamingo4 #h ,the ,duc de ,montausier used to say1 ,qu'a sa tenue de convive on reconnaissait un gentilhomme4 #i ,les ,delices de la ,campagne4 ,suitte du ,jardinier franois ov est enseigne a preparer pour l'vsage de la vie tout ce qui croist sur la ,terre dans les ,eaux4 ,dedie avx dames ,mesnageres4 ,paris1 chez ,pierre ,des-,hayes1 #afed4 #aj ,the cause assigned to ,vatel's death has been disputed1 some having maintained it was not owing to the non-arrival of the fish1 but because on cooking the fish they were found not to be so fresh as they might be4 #aa ,les ,soupers de la ,cour1 ou l'art de travailler toutes sortes d'alimens4 ,pour servir les meilleures ,tables1 suivant les quatre ,saisons4 ,a ,paris chez ,guillyn1 ,libraire1 #agee4 #ab ,l',art du ,cuisinier1 par ,a4 ,beauvilliers1 ,ancien ,officier de ,monsieur1 comte de ,provence1 ,attach aux ,extraordinaires des ,maisons ,royales et actuellement ,restaurateur1 rue de ,richelieu1 ,no4 #bf la grande ,taverne de ,londres4 ,a ,paris1 chez ,pillet ,ain1 #ahad1 #b vols4 #ac ,dfendez que personne1 an milieu d'un banquet1 ,ne vous vienne donner un avis indiscret2 ,ecartez ce facheux qui vers vous s'achemine--,rien ne doit dranger l'honnte homme qui dne4 #ad ,l',art de dner en ville l'usage des gens de lettres1 pome en iv chants4 ,seconde dition revue et corrige4 ,paris1 ,delaunay2 ,colnet1 #ahaj4 #ae ,herrick1 ,hesperides4 #af ,the ,english housewife2 containing the inward and outward ,vertues which ought to be in a compleat ,woman2 as to her skill in ,physicke1 ,cookery1 ,ordering of ,great ,feasts1 etc41 etc4 ,london1 #afca4 #ag ,elizabeth ,robins ,pennell3 ,the ,feasts of ,autolycus4 #ah ,the ,art of ,cookery ,made ,plain and ,easy1 which far ,exceeds ,every ,thing of the ,kind ,ever yet ,published4 ,by a ,lady4 ,london3 ,printed for the ,author2 and sold at ,mrs4 ,ashburn's1 a ,china ,shop1 the ,corner of ,fleet ,ditch4 #ai ,almanach des ,gourmands1 ,suivant de ,guide ,dans ,les ,moyens de faire excellente ,chre2 ,par ,un ,viel ,amateur4 ,troisime ,edition4 ,revue1 ,corrige et ,considrablement ,augmente4 ,a ,paris4 ,chez ,maradan1 rue ,pavs-,saint-,andr-des-,arcs1 #ahjd1 #ahjd1 #ahje1 #ahjf1 #ahjg1 #ahjh4 ,chez ,joseph ,chaumerot1 ,libraire1 au ,palais ,royal1 ,galeries de ,bois1 #ahaj1 #ahab4 #bj ,manuel des ,amphitryons2 contenant ,un ,trait de la ,dissection des viandes table1 la ,nomenclature des ,menus les plus nouveaux pour chacque saison1 et des ,elmens de la ,politesse gourmande4 ,ouvrage indispensable tous ceux qui sont jaloux de faire bonne chre1 et de la faire faire aux autres4 ,orn d'un grand nombre de ,planches graves en taille-douce4 ,par l',auteur de l',almanach des ,gourmands4 ,a ,paris1 ,chez ,capelle et ,renand1 ,,mdcccviii4 #ba ,we shall never forget a dinner that eight of us had at ,m4 ,tailleur's1 in which he made us drink forty bottles of his best wine of all kinds1 and each service of which attested the competent master of the alimentary art4 ,l',,almanach1 #dme anne1 p4 #aeb4 #bb 7,in depths of ,seidels tall we ,germans find our power1 ,as did in years agone our ancestors of yore2 ,for in the noble barley-wine there lingers still a might divine47 #bc ,l',ancienne ,alsace ,table4 ,etude ,historique et ,archologique sur l',alimentation1 les ,murs et les ,usages ,epulaires de l'ancienne ,province d',alsace3 par ,charles ,grard1 ,avocat la ,cour ,impriale de ,colmar4 ,colmar1 ,imprimerie et ,lithographie de ,camille ,decker1 #ahfb4 ,large #hvo1 pp4 #bfi4 #bd ,diese ,zahl bedeutet die ununterbrochenen ,dienstjahre der betr4 ,kellnerin4 #be ,it should be distinctly stated that the rendition is by the late ,rev4 ,francis ,mahony 7requiescat in pace674 ,recalling his scathing stricture on ,the ,rogueries of ,tom ,moore1 one were unwise not to mention the name of the scholarly paraphrast and poet1 for fear that he might arise to wreak summary vengeance4 ,but inasmuch as no authorship is assigned to the poem by the versatile bard1 and as one must be on guard most of the time against the subtile spirit of fun and malice which pervades his pages1 it is probable that both the ,french song and the rendition are by the same accomplished hand4 #bf ,es lohnet mir heute ,mit doppelter ,beute ,ein gutes ,geschick2 ,der redliche ,diener ,bringt ,hasen und ,hhner ,zur ,kche zurck2 ,hier find ich gefangen1 ,auch ,vogel noch hangen4 ,es lebe der ,jger1 ,es lebe sein ,glck6 #bg ,the reader who is interested in pastoral luncheons and all their possibilities should compare the ,halts of a ,shooting ,party with the chapter entitled ,des ,parties de ,campagne ,gourmandes in the fourth volume of the ,almanach des ,gourmands4 #bh ,grand ,dictionnaire de ,cuisine1 par ,alexandre ,dumas4 ,paris1 ,alphonse ,lemerre1 ,editeur1 ,passage ,choiseul1 #ahgc4 #bi ,propos d',art et de ,cuisine4 #cj ,rev4 ,joseph ,a4 ,ely's transl4 #ca ,le ,gastronome ,franais 7#ahbh74 ,g4 ,d4 ,l4 ,r41 ,de ,la ,truffe4 #cb ,roti-,cochon ou ,mthode ,trs-,facile pour bien apprendre les ,enfants a ,lire en ,latin et en ,francais1 par des ,inscriptions moralement expliques de plusieurs ,representations figures de diffrentes choses de leurs connoissances2 trs utile et meme necessaire1 tant pour la vie le salut1 que pour la gloire de ,dieu4 ,a ,dijon1 chez ,claude ,michard1 ,imprimeur ,marchand ,libraire ,saint ,jean l',evangliste4 #cc ,the ,english system of cookery it would be impertinent for me to describe2 but still1 when ,i think of that huge round of parboiled ox-flesh1 with sodden dumplings floating in a saline1 greasy mixture1 surrounded by carrots looking red with disgust and turnips pale with dismay1 ,i cannot help a sort of inward shudder1 and making comparisons unfavourable to ,english gastronomy4--,,memoirs ,,of ,a ,,stomach4 ,written by ,himself4 ,london1 #ahec4 #cd ,old ,cookery ,books and ,ancient ,cuisine1 by ,w4 ,carew ,hazlitt1 ,london1 ,elliot ,stock1 #ahhf4 #ce ,lo ,scalco prattico di ,vittorio ,lancellotti da ,camerino ,all',illustrissimo1 e ,reuerendiss4 ,prencipe il ,card4 ,ippolito ,aldobrandino ,camerlengo di ,santa ,chiesa4 ,in ,roma ,appresso ,francesco ,corbelletti4 #afbg4 #cf ,cardinal ,bonnechose1 who was most appropriately surnamed1 is especially remembered for his bon-mot1 ,le clerg est un rgiment2 il faut qu'il marche4 #cg ,whither1 'midst falling dew1 ,while glow the heavens with the last steps of day1 ,far through their rosy depths dost thou pursue ,thy solitary way8 ,vainly the fowler's eye ,might mark thy distant flight to do thee wrong1 ,as1 darkly painted on the crimson sky1 ,thy figure floats along4444 ,,bryant3 ,lines to a ,waterfowl4 #ch ,mme4 ,rcamier4 #ci ,hart an dem ,bolsener ,see1 ,auf des ,flaschenberges ,hoh'1 ,steht ein kleiner ,leichenstein ,mit der kurzen ,inschrift drein3 ,propter nimium ,est1 ,est1 ,dominus meus mortuus est6 ,unter diesem ,monument1 ,welches keinen ,namen nennt1 ,ruht ein ,herr von deutschem ,blut1 ,deutschem ,schlund und deutschem ,mut1 ,der hier starb den schnsten ,tod--,seine ,schuld vergeb' ihm ,gott6 #dj ,the ,cook's ,oracle2 ,containing ,receipts for ,plain ,cookery on the ,most ,economical ,plan for ,private ,families1 etc4 ,the ,fourth ,edition4 ,london3 ,printed for ,a4 ,constable ,co4 #ahbb4 #da ,the ,original1 by the ,late ,thomas ,walker1 ,m4,a41 ,trinity ,college1 ,cambridge4 ,fifth ,edition4 ,edited by ,wm4 ,a4 ,guy4 ,london1 ,henry ,renshaw1 #ahge4 #db ,the ,art of ,dining1 or ,gastronomy and ,gastronomers4 ,london3 ,john ,murray1 ,albemarle ,street1 #aheb4 #abmo1 pp4 #acg4 #dc ,dinners and ,diners1 ,where and ,how to ,dine in ,london4 ,by ,lieut4-,col4 ,newnham-,davis4 ,a ,new ,enlarged and ,revised ,edition4 ,london3 ,grant ,richards1 #aija4 ,chapters ,,liii1 pp4 #cgf4 #dd ,l',hygiene des ,hommes livrs aux ,travaux de l',esprit4 #de ,the ,feasts of ,autolycus--,the ,diary of a ,greedy ,woman4 ,edited by ,elizabeth ,robins ,pennell4 ,london3 ,john ,lane4 ,new ,york3 ,the ,merriam ,co4 #ahif4 #df ,coulis--a thick gravy1 and also a term formerly applied to the fundamental sauces4 #dg ,l',art ,culinaire4 #dh ,all the entres having the name ,bayonnaises 7a corrupt term for ,mahonnoise7 were the invention of the ,marchal1 ,duc de ,richelieu4--,,manuel ,,des ,,amphitryons4 #di ,the recipes for sauce la ,richelieu and ,francatelli's sauce are presented respectively in the following and in a previous chapter4 #ej ,those which feed much on cantharides require to be very carefully cleaned1 otherwise persons eating them are liable to suffer severely4 ,several gentlemen of ,new ,orleans have assured me that they have seen persons at dinner obliged to leave the room at once1 under such circumstances as cannot well be described4--,,audubon3 ,the ,birds of ,america4 #ea ,la ,petite-,cuisine4 #eb ,i have not defined the truffle as yet1 but the definition of this subterranean mushroom which embraces within its outer covering the sporangiums filled until spores subsequently destined to reproduce it1 is the result of all ,i have said4--,,ibid43 ,la ,truffe4 ,etude sur les ,truffes et les ,truffires4 ,par le ,dr4 ,c4 de ,ferry de la ,bellone1 ,ancien ,prsident de la ,socit de ,mdecine de ,vaucluse1 ,prsident du ,comice ,agricole1 etc41 etc4 ,paris1 ,librairie ,j4 ,b4 ,baillire et ,fils1 #ahhh4 #hvo1 pp4 #cab4 #ec ,de la ,truffe1 ,traite ,complet de ce ,tubercle1 contenant sa ,description et son ,histoire ,naturelle la plus dtaille1 son ,exploitation ,commerciale et sa ,position dans l',art ,culinaire2 suivi d'une ,quatrime ,partie contenant les meilleurs moyens d'employer les truffes en apprts culinaires2 les meilleures mthodes d'en faire des conserves certaines2 les indications1 recettes et moyens les plus positifs et les plus compliqus stir tout ce qui concerne cette substance2 par ,m4 ,m4 ,moynier4 ,paris1 ,barba4 #ahcf4 pp4 #djj4 #ed ,our ,edible ,toadstools and ,mushrooms1 and ,how to ,distinguish ,them4 ,a ,selection of ,thirty ,native ,food ,varieties ,easily ,recognizable by ,their ,marked ,individualities1 with ,simple ,rules for the ,identification of ,poisonous ,species4 ,by ,w4 ,hamilton ,gibson4 ,with ,thirty ,colored ,plates and ,fifty-seven ,other ,illustrations by the ,author4 ,new ,york1 ,harper ,brothers1 ,publishers1 #ahie4 #ee ,annual ,report of the ,state ,botanist of the ,state of ,new ,york4 ,made to the ,regents of the ,university1 ,pursuant to ,chapter #cee of the ,laws of #ahhc4 ,by ,charles ,h4 ,peck4 ,albany1 ,james ,b4 ,lyon1 ,publisher1 #ahie4 ,second ,edition1 #ahig4 #ef ,studies of ,american ,fungi1 ,mushrooms ,edible1 ,poisonous1 etc4 ,by ,george ,francis ,atkinson1 ,professor of ,botany in ,cornell ,university and ,botanist of the ,cornell ,university ,experiment ,station1 ,author of ',studies and ,illustrations of ,mushrooms1' ',biology of ,ferns1' ',elementary ,botany1' ',lessons in ,botany4' ,with a ,chapter on ,recipes for ,cooking ,mushrooms1 by ,mrs4 ,sarah ,tyson ,rorer2 on the ,chemistry and ,toxicology of ,mushrooms1 by ,j4 ,f4 ,clark2 on the ,structural ,characters of ,mushrooms1 by ,h4 ,hasselbring4 ,with #bjj ,photographs by the ,author1 and ,coloured ,plates by ,f4 ,r4 ,rathbun4 ,ithaca1 ,n4 ,y43 ,andrus and ,church1 ,publishers1 #aijj4 #eg ,toadstools1 ,mushrooms1 ,fungi1 ,edible and ,poisonous4 ,one ,thousand ,american ,fungi4 ,how to ,select and ,cook the ,edible2 ,how to ,distinguish and ,avoid the ,poisonous1 ,giving ,full ,botanic ,descriptions ,made ,easy for ,reader and ,student4 ,by ,charles ,mc,ilvaine1 ,president ,philadelphia ,mycological ,centre1 ,honorary ,member ,salem ,county and ,gloucester ,county1 ,n4 ,j41 ,medical ,societies2 ,assisted by ,robert ,k4 ,macadam4 ,toadstool ,poisons and ,their ,treatment1 ,instructions to ,students1 ,recipes for ,cooking1 etc41 etc4 ,indianapolis1 ,u4 ,s4 ,a43 ,the ,bowen-,merrill ,company1 ,publishers4 ,edition limited to #gej copies4 #eh ,two large potatoes1 passed through kitchen sieve1 ,unwonted softness to the salad give4 ,of mordant mustard add a single spoon1 ,distrust the condiment that bites so soon2 ,but deem it not1 thou man of herbs1 a fault ,to add a double quantity of salt4 ,three times the spoon with oil from ,lucca crown1 ,and once with vinegar procured from town4 ,true flavour needs it1 and your poet begs ,the pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs2 ,let onion atoms lurk within the bowl1 ,and1 scarce suspected1 animate the whole4 ,and1 lastly1 on the flavoured compound toss ,a magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce4 ,then though green turtle fail1 though venison's tough1 ,and ham and turkey are not boiled enough1 ,serenely full1 the epicure may say1 ',fate cannot harm me1 ,i have dined to-day4' #ei ,as for the pepper1 never use the powdered pepper that you buy at the grocer's and which has generally lost its flavour before it reaches the depths of the pepper-caster4 ,the only pepper worthy to titillate the papill of a civilised man is that ground out of the peppercorn1 at the moment of use1 in a little hand-mill4--,,theodore ,,child3 ,delicate ,feasting4 #fj ,the ,story of ,my ,house3 ,a ,blue-,violet ,salad4 #fa ,jam6 jam6 ,i yield me to thy potent charm4 ,transcriber's ,note3 #a4 ,original spelling has been retained4 #b4 ,punctuation and obvious spelling errors have been corrected4 #c4 ,superscripts are shown as xx or x4 #d4 ,italics are shown as xxx4 #e4 ,bold script is shown as xxx4