,transcriber's ,notes3 #a4 ,footnotes have been moved to immediately after the associated paragraph4 #b4 ,obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected4 #c4 ,spelling and hyphenation has been made consistent with the most common usage4 ,quoted text from other works and authors was left unchanged4 #d4 ,characters between underscores 8 0 are italicized4 ,,notes ,,upon ,,indigo4 ,,by ,,john ,l4 ,,hayes1 ,,secretary ,,of ,,the ,,national ,,association ,,of ,,wool ,,manufacturers1 ,,fellow ,,of ,,the ,,american ,,academy1 ,,and ,,corresponding ,,member ,,of ,,the ,,academy ,,of ,,natural ,,sciences ,,of ,,philadelphia4 ,from 8,the ,bulletin of the ,national ,association of ,wool ,manufacturers40 ,,boston3 ,,press ,,of ,,john ,,wilson ,,and ,,son4 #ahgc4 ,,part ,i4 ,,notes ,,upon ,,indigo4 ,,part ,i4 ,a publication devoted to the interests of the woollen manufacture1 while giving due prominence to its first raw material1 wool1 cannot neglect the secondary materials which enter into finished fabrics4 ,the attractiveness and utility of the largest class of these fabrics are due to the hue given them by the dyer2 and of all the coloring materials one of the most precious is indigo4 ,in former times1 as it still does at the ,east1 it occupied with madder the place of one of the two most important of all dyeing materials4 ,forced of late years to give way to the marvellous products of modern chemistry1 it will doubtless resume its place under the influence of a more enlightened economy and a more subdued taste4 ,to contribute to the hastening of this return is one object of this essay4 ,the most usual reproach against ,american fabrics is the want of stability in our dyes1--a reproach without justice1 if applied to ,american fabrics alone2 for the cheapening of dyestuffs is practised in all the so-called manufacturing nations1 and is contemned alone in the ,east1 from which we have derived our arts1 and by the people whom we despise as barbarous4 ,to remove this reproach from ,american fabrics would be worthy of no little temporary sacrifice on the part of our manufacturers4 ,the value of indigo as a dyeing material is due to the great stability of the blue color1 and the derivatives from blue1 which it gives to fabrics1 especially of wool and cotton4 ,it is not sufficient that a dyed fabric should preserve its color when submitted to violent tests1 as when acted upon by vegetable or mineral acids or alkaline or soapy baths3 the only stable dyes are those which resist air and light1 the two destructive agents of vegetable colors4 ,indigo1 from the remarkable manner in which its color becomes fixed upon a fabric1 to be hereafter explained1 possesses properties of resistance and stability in a higher degree than any blue dye4 ,and when we consider that this blue has not only its own hue1 but is the best foundation for blacks1 greens1 purples1 and even browns1 the importance of these properties cannot be over-estimated4 ,says ,m4 de ,kppelin1 a chemist and manufacturer of ,mulhouse1 in one of a series of articles furnished to the ,annales du gnie ,civil1 #ahfd3 8,so high are the properties of resistance and stability which indigo possesses1 that it is perhaps to be regretted for the art of the dyer and manufacturer of printed calicoes1 that the use of indigo becomes more and more rare1 and that the recent discoveries which modern science has placed at the service of industry are daily eliminating it from our factories4 ,i have observed that whenever we have to dye stuffs of a high price1 it is indigo which always serves as a base for the foundation of all the blue colors1 or of those which are derived from blue4 ,it is the same for the fabrication of printed tissues1 which serve for the poorer classes1 whose colors should have great stability without much increase of cost4 ,but of late years1 especially1 we find a tendency to employ colors of little stability1 and to prefer them1 even in the class of fabrics first referred to1 to those which are more fast1 on account of their vivacity and freshness of tone4 ,it is this tendency1 which the consumer partakes of even while complaining of it1 that the textile manufacturers ought to seek to combat4 ,how often have ,i heard the greatest manufacturers of ,alsace deplore the obligation which they felt that they were under of printing their tissues by means of colors so fugacious and so little resistant as those composed from aniline4 ,we must hope1 then1 in the interest of that industry1 that while adopting the marvellous discoveries which science is every day making1 there shall be made a less general application of them1 and that we shall return to the fabrication of the styles which necessitate the more constant employment of coloring materials1--less brilliant1 it is true1 but more adherent to the tissues1 and less alterable by air and light4 ,it seems to me1 also1 that taste would lose nothing2 and that printed stuffs1 colored in a manner less brilliant1 but more harmonious1 would be perhaps more appreciated1 especially by those who use them40 ,the tendency to substitute the brilliant for the stable dyes prevails too much in our own manufacture4 ,a very considerable cloth manufacturer replied to our inquiry as to the extent to which he used indigo3 8,i hardly use it at all2 the dye of the indigo blue is not bright enough to be popular40 ,on the other hand1 we have heard our leading manufacturer of carpets1 whose cultivated taste has led him to partake of ,m4 de ,kppelin's views1 deplore the introduction of aniline dyes1 as a positive calamity to the textile industry4 ,it is the influence of the trade1 the immediate consumers of fabrics1 rather than the judgment of manufacturers1 which promotes the use of the modern fugacious dyes4 ,the dealers desire not only to imitate the fashionable colors of ,european goods1 but to secure the utmost cheapness4 ,one of our largest manufacturers of woollen goods1 who had made a special study of the best processes abroad1 and was desirous of bringing better dyed goods into more general consumption1 urged one of his largest customers1 an extensive dealer1 to allow him to dye the waterproof cloakings which he was furnishing for his house1 in fast indigo colors1 assuring him that he would charge simply the additional cost of the indigo1 without profit4 ,the offer1 which involved the cost of only a few cents a yard1 which would have been gladly paid by the last consumer if the difference of value had been made known1 was declined4 ,it is not improbable that the inferior goods which the manufacturer was compelled to furnish were sold to the public as fast dyed4 ,our manufacturers1 therefore1 may not have been responsible for the predicament in which the most enthusiastic defender of our protective policy found himself1 as we have it from his own lips4 ,being about to make a speech in ,congress in defence of ,american industries1 he put on1 for the first time1 a coat declared to have been made of ,american cloth4 ,sitting down1 heated and perspiring from the excitement of his effort1 he found that beneath the arms whose gestures had enforced his eulogies of ,american industry1 the pretended fast blue of his coat had become red1 literally blushing for its unmerited praise4 ,that fast-dyed goods of the highest excellence can be and are furnished by ,american manufacturers1 is shown by our army cloths4 ,the government specifications1 copies of which are published elsewhere in this number1 require that all the blue woollen cloth1 cap cloth1 and flannels furnished for the army shall be 8pure indigo dyed40 ,the requisition is strictly enforced4 ,the admirable effect of this regulation may be witnessed at any dress parade of a battalion of ,united ,states soldiers4 ,the persistency and uniformity of the hue under constant wear--the cloth of the common soldier in its superior dye often favorably contrasting with the finer but fancy dyed cloth of the officer--is one of the circumstances which justify the assertion1 that our army is the best clothed in the world4 ,the contrast is more remarkable still with the quondam blue cloth1 converted by sun and rain-into every shade of shabbiness1 which we purchased in ,europe for our soldiers at the commencement of our late war4 ,,origin ,,and ,,extraction ,,of ,,indigo4 ,indigo is a coloring material of vegetable origin1 which owes its color and its important applications to a direct blue principle1 known under the name of indigotine4 ,it has been used as a dyestuff from time immemorial1 by the inhabitants of ,india2 and it is from the ,east1 the cradle of the textile arts1 that ,europe has derived it4 ,it was probably received from ,india by the ,greeks1 among other products first made known to them by the expeditions of ,alexander the ,great4 ,dioscorides clearly refers to indigo in mentioning the two coloring matters brought from ,india4 ,pliny mentions a coloring material1 having an admirable mixture of blue and purple1 as coming from ,india1 which he calls indicum4 ,that he refers to indigo is curiously manifest by the test which he gives1 by which the genuine drug might always and certainly be distinguished from the spurious4 ,this is by putting it on live coals1 when1 says he1 8the true indicum will burn with a flame of a most beautiful purple tint40 ,the purple vapor from burning indigo is still a characteristic test4 ,the ,romans1 it is apparent1 used indigo only as a pigment1 not knowing what is still the most important art connected with its use1--how to make it soluble so as to be available in dyeing4 ,that indigo as a commercial product was first obtained from ,india is not only proved by the testimony of ,pliny1 and other ancient writers1 but is confirmed by a variety of circumstances1 and particularly by its name1 which is known to have been nil in the ,hindu language1 from the earliest times of which there is mention of it4 ,this name is still given by the ,hindoos to the color blue1 and to all the plants producing indigo4 ,the ,arabs and ,egyptians1 who obtained a knowledge of indigo from ,india1 adopted the ,hindu name1 the ,arabs calling it nil or nir1 and the ,egyptians nil or niel4 ,the ,portuguese preserved the ,indian name1 with a slight modification1 the substance being called aniliera in their language4 ,the coloring substances afterwards found in coal-tar having been first found in indigo1 modern science has adopted for them the name of aniline4 ,it has been asserted that this substance was not known in ,europe until the time of the discovery of the passage to ,india round the ,cape of ,good ,hope4 ,but ,dr4 ,bancroft has shown that indigo was brought by merchants from ,india to ,alexandria1 and thence to ,venice1 when that city was the entrept of ,europe and the ,east4 ,it doubtless contributed to the excellence which the ,italian states first attained in the wool manufacture4 ,the drug was called endigo in ,venice1 and it is from that city that we have derived its name and use4 ,it was imperfectly known in ,england under its ,spanish name in the sixteenth century1 for we find in ,hackluyt 8,voyages0 his instructions to a traveller who was going to ,turkey to ascertain 8if anile1 that coloureth blue1 be a natural commodity of those parts1 and if it be composed of an herbe40 ,the general introduction of indigo into ,europe was impeded by legislative enactments1 prompted mainly by those employed in industries which it threatened to displace4 ,these were chiefly the producers of and dealers in woad1 formerly used exclusively for dyeing blue1 and the corporation of woad dyers4 ,when dyers from ,italy and ,flanders attempted to introduce the superior dyes of indigo1 the woad interests were sufficiently powerful to induce the ,elector of ,saxony to denounce the use of the new dyestuff4 ,it was pronounced in the ,diet of the ,empire as 8a corrosive color10 and 8fit food only for the devil10 fressende teufels4 ,similar propositions were made in ,england and ,france1 in which latter the free use of indigo was not permitted until #agcg4 ,although indigo as known in the arts is a product of vegetable origin1 we must not omit to notice that one source of its production is the human body4 ,it was discovered some years since that the blue color sometimes found in diseased urines1 and in certain suppurations1 is due to indigo4 ,dr4 ,schunck1 in some papers read before the ,royal ,society1 has shown that it is a frequent constituent of urine secreted by persons in a healthy state1 and that1 in fact1 it is produced generally when persons do not take sufficient exercise2 and he has several times succeeded in producing it by taking in his food a rather large excess of sugar4 ,he has found this substance also in the urine of beef cattle4 ,it must also be observed that the chemical actions of indigotine with oxidizing agents1 showing indigo to have a very close relation to aniline and carbolic acid1 both products derived from coal-tar1 have produced in the minds of chemists the conviction that indigotine1 like alizarine1 the coloring principle of madder1 will one day be artificially produced from coal-tar4 ,the plants which are known to furnish indigo are quite numerous1 being not less than sixty2 they do not all belong to the same family1 and none of them contain the coloring principle already formed4 ,the most important belong to the leguminous family1 from which most of the vegetable dyes are derived1 and to the genus indigofera4 ,the species cultivated and most esteemed are ,indigofera tinctoria1 ,i4 disperma1 ,i4 anil1 ,i4 argentea4 ,illustration3 ,drawing of the ,indigofera tinctoria plant ,the principal source of the indigo of commerce is the ,indigofera tinctoria4 ,the accompanying figure is a correct representation of the plant1 and we may dispense with a description of its botanical characters1 observing only that the plant has a half woody stem1 and rises to the height of from three to five feet4 ,the plants exhale a strong odor towards evening in the fields where they are cultivated4 ,the leaves have a disagreeable taste1 and rapidly putrefy in water4 ,the plant originated in ,campaja1 or ,guzerat1 but is cultivated in ,hindostan1 ,china1 ,java1 and in the ,east ,indies generally4 ,it was carried by the ,spaniards to ,south ,america and the ,west ,indies1 and it can be acclimated in all hot countries4 ,the ,indigofera argentea1 or indigo plant of ,egypt1 furnishes the indigo produced in that country and ,arabia4 ,the culture of the plant and the production of commercial indigo is carried on a vast scale in ,lower ,bengal4 ,we have before us a large map1 placed at our disposal by an ,india merchant of ,boston1 showing the location of each of the hundreds of factories of that important centre of production4 ,these factories have been developed by ,british enterprise2 and ,india thus receives some slight compensation for the ruin of her cotton manufacture by the same influence4 ,the propagation of the indigo plant in that country is made by sowing in a thoroughly tilled silico-argillaceous soil4 ,the seed of the plant is sowed annually in the spring or autumn1 according to the variety used1 some germinating more slowly1 and requiring to remain in the ground longer than others4 ,the time of putting in the seed is also governed by the nature of the soil and its position in respect to neighboring rivers4 ,in the lowlands subject to inundations1 the indigo ought to be all cut at the period of the rains and inundations1 which would destroy the crop in a brief time4 ,besides1 during the rainy period the planter has at his disposal sufficient water to commence his operations of fabricating the indigo1 which is the suitable time for beginning the cutting of the plant4 ,the time of cutting the indigo plants is therefore regulated by the elevation of the land and danger from floods4 ,the high lands are always sowed several weeks after those subject to inundations4 ,the ,chinese prick out the young plants in parallel rows1 always preserving the land quite clear of weeds4 ,by taking away the blossoms of the plant before their development1 they increase the growth of the leaves1 and1 consequently1 the return of indigo2 for it is in the leaves principally that the coloring material is found4 ,in certain localities the planters break off the leaves which have acquired a bluish green tint4 ,but more frequently the whole plant is cut down close to the ground in the months of ,june or ,july1 when the flowers begin to open4 ,the portion of the plant which remains pushes up quite rapidly1 and furnishes a second1 and even third1 and sometimes1 though rarely1 a fourth cutting4 ,the quality of the product diminishes according to the number of the cuttings4 ,the plant called nil1 cut down to the root and gathered up in packages1 is worked up the same evening4 ,the package is formed from the product of a space of land embraced by a chain about three yards long4 ,the value of the first material changes with the value of the soil4 ,thus1 one soil produces a plant which has many stems and few leaves1 while another gives many leaves and few stems4 ,the richness in coloring material depends upon the quantity of leaves1 but varies also with an equal weight of leaves with atmospheric influences4 ,thus regular dealers in the article observe a marked difference in the quality of indigo in different seasons4 ,m4 ,a4 ,koechlin ,schwartz has recently published some interesting notes upon the preparation of indigo in ,lower ,bengal4 ,in that country1 which furnishes excellent indigo1 the factory includes1 besides filters1 presses1 a steam-engine1 drying apparatus1 and reservoir of water1 two lines of vats1 arranged one above the other1 from fifteen to twenty in each line4 ,these vats are built up with bricks1 and covered with a strong coat of solid and well made stucco4 ,they are square1 about six yards on a side1 and about a yard deep4 ,the back row is about a yard above the front one4 ,the plant is fermented in the vats of the upper row2 when the operation of fermentation is terminated1 a faucet is opened1 and the liquid is run into the lower vat4 ,the water of the ,ganges1 which is relatively pure1 and thus well suited for this work1 is brought into basins of deposition1 where it becomes clarified1 and is distributed by a common canal to the vats of the upper row4 ,the plants1 cut in the morning and bound up into packages1 come to the factory after midday1 and are thrown into the vat in the evening4 ,a vat contains one hundred packages carefully arranged1 one beside the other2 heavy timbers are placed upon the plants1 which are pressed down by means of large wedges4 ,it is necessary that the plants should be pressed together very compactly1 as without this the fermentation does not take place to advantage4 ,at nightfall the water is introduced into the vats1 and fills them so as completely to submerge the plants4 ,the fermentation is more or less prolonged according to the temperature4 ,its duration varies from nine to fourteen hours4 ,the workmen judge as to the procedure of the operation by withdrawing a little of the liquid in the lower vat4 ,if it is of a clear pale yellow when withdrawn1 it will furnish a product less abundant but more pure than if of a deep gold color4 ,at the moment of its issue from the fermenting vat the liquid is of a yellow color1 more or less deep4 ,the liquid is allowed to remain undisturbed for a brief period1 when twelve naked men1 armed with long bamboos1 enter the vat to beat the water while it is still warm4 ,during this time the upper vat is emptied and cleaned out for the succeeding operation4 ,one vat requires seventeen workpeople 7twelve men and five women74 ,they thrash the water for two or three hours4 ,the liquid passes by little and little to a pale green1 and the indigo is found on suspension in the form of small floccules4 ,the liquor is suffered to remain undisturbed for half an hour2 it is then gradually decanted by opening1 one after the other1 the discharging holes placed at different heights4 ,the water returns to the river1 and the precipitate1 under the form of a thin bouille1 is turned into a reservoir4 ,this bouille is pumped up into a vessel1 and made to boil for a moment to prevent a second fermentation1 which would injure the quality of the product1 by turning it black4 ,it is suffered to rest about twenty hours1 and the next morning it is again subjected to boiling1 the ebullition being kept up three or four hours4 ,the boiling deposit is then turned off upon a large filter1 through which the water drips4 ,this filter is composed of a vat constructed of masonry1 covered with stucco1 about eighteen feet long by six feet wide and three feet deep4 ,this is covered with bamboos1 upon which is a grating of smaller reeds1 and above by a stout strained cloth4 ,there remains upon the cloth a thick paste1 of a deep blue and nearly black color4 ,the water which is run into the vat deposits some indigo which has pressed through the filter4 ,this is decanted after being allowed to rest1 and the turbid liquid is boiled the next day with the fresh indigo4 ,the paste of the filter is introduced into some small boxes of wood1 pierced with holes1 and provided above and below with a strong cotton cloth4 ,the whole is again covered with a piece of stuff1 and then with a covering of wood1 pierced with small holes1 and it is placed under a press1 the force being gradually applied1 so as to cause the water to run out as much as possible4 ,there is withdrawn from the box a cake of the size of a cake of ,marseilles soap4 ,the water squeezed out flows back into the filtering vat1 to be boiled again with the fresh indigo4 ,the drying of the cakes ought to be done very slowly4 ,the dry-house is a large building of masonry1 quite high1 and pierced with many openings1 provided with narrow blinds1 to prevent the direct light of the sun from penetrating into the interior4 ,care is taken also to surround the dry-house with large shade-trees4 ,the cakes take from three to four days to dry1 after which they are packed in small boxes and carried to ,calcutta1 the great market of ,bengal4 ,the details above given apply to the factories managed by ,european planters4 ,the natives operate in nearly the same manner1 but with less care1 and consequently their products are inferior4 ,the average product of indigo in ,lower ,bengal is stated at #d1jjj1jjj kilograms1 or #h1hdj1jjj pounds per year4 ,the most remarkable fact to be noticed in these operations is1 that the blue principle is developed by chemical action from certain absolutely colorless principles existing in the plant4 ,the theory of the change effected is still somewhat in doubt1 because no chemist has studied the fresh plant1 and observed upon the spot the phases of the operation of the production of indigo on a large scale4 ,but the most accepted theory is that derived from the researches of ,dr4 ,schunck1 upon the isatis or woad-plant1 which produces indigotine in a much less degree than the true indigo plants2 viz41 that the indigo exists in the plants combined with sugar1 forming a glucoside1 to which he gives the name indican4 ,this compound1 under the influence of fermentation in the manufacturing process1 is supposed to be unfolded into indigo and sugar4 ,without dwelling upon this question1 which is beyond our province1 we observe that the plants of the genus indigofera are used for the production of commercial indigo1 on account of the greater richness in the coloring principle4 ,other plants1 which furnish the same coloring principle1 indigotine1 are more frequently used directly in dyeing to furnish the blue principle than they are for the production of indigo4 ,the most important of these plants1 although there are others1 such as the ,polygonum tinctorium and the ,nerium tinctorium1 is the ,isatis tinctoria1 which produces pastel1 or woad4 ,this1 plant belongs to the family of crucifer1 and is a biennial4 ,it is represented in the accompanying figure4 ,illustration3 ,drawing of the ,isatis tinctoria plant ,the leaves which surround the stem are collected in ,may or ,june of the second year1 when they begin to turn yellow4 ,the wasted and dried leaves are sometimes used directly for dyeing1 but more generally the leaves1 after being cut and dried1 are carried to a mill1 and then ground to a paste1 after which it is formed into a mass or heap1 and being covered to protect it from rain1 is left to undergo a partial fermentation for about a fortnight4 ,the heap is then well mixed and formed into balls1 which are exposed to the sun and wind to dry1 and thereby prevent the putrefaction which would otherwise take place4 ,being afterwards collected in heaps1 these balls again ferment1 become hot1 and emit the odor of ammonia1 which ,hume tells us1 in the ,history of ,england1 gave such offence to ,queen ,elizabeth that she issued an edict to prohibit the cultivation of this plant4 ,after the heat has continued for some time1 these balls fall into a dry powder1 in which form the woad is usually sold to the dyer4 ,the best ,french woad comes from ,provence1 ,languedoc1 and ,normandy4 ,in ,germany1 the pastel of ,thuringia is used almost exclusively2 the packages have the trade-mark of three towers1 with the numbers #d1 #e4 ,in this country1 owing probably to the prejudices of practical dyers1 who have generally come from ,england1 the ,lancashire woad is almost exclusively used4 ,the very little imported of late years1 ranging from two thousand to twelve thousand dollars annually in value1 is used for mixing with indigo in the so-called woad vat1 to be hereafter described4 ,,commercial ,,indigoes4 ,the following description of the indigoes of commerce is taken principally from ,schutzenberger's excellent treatise on coloring materials4 ,it coincides very nearly with that given by ,napier from ,dumas and ,chevrueil4 ,indigoes are classed1 according to their origin1 into three groups4 #a4 ,indigoes of ,asia 7from ,bengal1 ,oude or ,coromandel1 ,manilla1 ,madras1 and ,java74 #b4 ,indigoes of ,africa 7,egypt1 ,island of ,france1 ,senegal74 #c4 ,indigoes of ,america 7,guatemala1 ,caraccas1 ,mexico1 ,brazil1 and the ,west ,indies74 ,the three varieties in most esteem are those of ,bengal1 ,java1 and ,guatemala4 ,indigoes of ,java4--,these are distinguished by the great purity of their coloring material4 ,they contain the minimum of extractive organic matter4 ,if1 in spite of this1 they do not give a high yield of indigotine2 this is owing to a mixture of silicious mineral substances with their paste4 ,the paste is soft4 ,it adheres strongly to the tongue1 and its density is feeble4 ,they are generally of a pure blue1 light or ash colored in the kinds which are less rich1 and of a magnificent violet blue in the superior qualities4 ,the last take a beautiful copper color when scratched by the nail4 ,they are placed in the very first rank among all indigoes in respect to fineness and beauty1 if not in richness in the blue coloring principle4 ,their purity1 complete absence from carbonate of lime1 and the small quantity of foreign organic materials which they contain1 cause them to be much sought for1 for the preparation of carmine of indigo4 ,the consumption of the ,javan indigoes in this country is so small as not to be appreciated4 ,bengal ,indigoes4--,these are the indigoes par excellence1 for in them are found the most varied qualities1 from the most beautiful and rich to the most ordinary4 ,the superior qualities are of a deep violet blue1 with a fine and uniform paste2 they adhere to the tongue1 are easily pulverized1 and take a beautiful coppery tint when scratched by the nail4 ,the fresh fracture shows a magnificent purplish blue reflection4 ,their yield in indigotine does not surpass seventy-two per cent4 ,after these come the reddish-violet indigoes with a purplish hue1 and a fracture more uniform and shiny4 ,they are also more dense and hard than the superior qualities4 ,the reddish hue does not proceed from the greater or less amount of coloring material contained1 but from the presence of a greater quantity of brown and red extractive matter4 ,these qualities are not to be despised1 for the kinds which give the best results in the dyeing vat are found in these indigoes4 ,it would seem1 in fact1 says the author whom we are following1 8that the browns and reds of indigo play an important part in vat dyeing1 that they are able to become dissolved and to fix themselves upon the tissues at the same time as the indigotine1 and thus operate to reinforce the hue4 ,the fact is1 that dyers generally prefer the reddish indigoes to the other varieties40 ,among the ,bengal indigoes there is found a clear blue variety1 less rich in coloring matter1 but also more exempt from organic substances4 ,the impurity is constituted by mineral matters4 ,it is less dense1 adheres strongly to the tongue1 and does not take a coppery hue1 like the other varieties1 when scratched by the nail4 ,the worst qualities of the ,bengal indigoes1 as in all the species1 are the clear blues1 shading on to gray or green4 ,this coloration denotes a great quantity of extractive matter different from the indigo brown which characterizes the red varieties1 and completely inert4 ,these indigoes are hard1 dense1 adhere little or none to the tongue1 and do not show coppery reflections when scratched4 ,the most skilful connoisseurs distinguish forty-three varieties of ,bengal indigo4 ,the most important are the following3-- #a4 ,superfine blue1 light or floating4--,color bright blue2 light1 friable1 and spongy2 adherent to the tongue1 soft to the touch1 showing coppery reflections when rubbed by the nail2 paste uniform and pure4 #b4 ,fine blue4--,like the preceding1 but the color a little less vivid4 #c4 ,violet blue4--,a little less light and friable4 ,has a violet blue4 #d4 ,superfine violet4 #e4 ,superfine purple4 #f4 ,fine violet4 #g4 ,good violet4 #h4 ,red violet4 #i4 ,ordinary violet4 #aj4 ,good soft red4 #aa4 ,good red4 #ab4 ,the indigoes1 fine coppery1 good coppery1 ordinary coppery1 and low coppery4 ,the ,indigoes of ,oude and ,coromandel4--,these are made in the interior of ,hindostan4 ,those of the best quality correspond to the middling ,bengal indigoes1 and are met with in square masses1 having an even fracture1 but are more difficult to break2 the inferior qualities are heavy1 of a sandy feel1 having a blue color1 bordering on green or gray1 or even black2 often in large squares1 and covered with a slight crust or rind of a greenish color4 ,they are the most difficult to break of all the indigoes of commerce4 ,madras ,indigoes4--,they have a grained fracture1 and are of a cubical figure4 ,the superior qualities have no rind4 ,the qualities are fine blue1 mixed violet blue1 and ordinary4 ,they are all lighter1 and less rich in coloring matter than the ,bengal indigoes4 ,manilla ,indigoes4--,these occur in cubical blocks1 flat squares1 or in irregular pieces4 ,they are light1 with a fine paste1 and of a clear blue4 ,they effervesce with acids1 showing the presence of carbonate of lime incorporated in their paste4 ,they are consequently poor in coloring material1 and are hence almost exclusively used as a bluing material in washing fabrics4 ,american ,indigoes4 ,guatemala4--,these indigoes are produced now altogether in ,hunduras1 although they still retain in commerce the name of ,guatemalan4 ,they are generally found in small pieces1 irregular in form and size1 and come in envelopes of skin containing about half as much as the ,bengal chests4 ,putting aside the difference in exterior form1 these indigoes approach very closely to those of ,bengal4 ,the same qualities are found1 only they are more frequently mixed4 ,the clear blue is more rare1 and1 when it is found1 it is poorer in coloring matter4 ,in purchasing these indigoes it is necessary to beware of the reds1 which often contain a strong proportion of the brown extractive matter4 ,it is not rare to find among the ,guatemalan indigoes beautiful specimens of the blue violet1 equal to the richest ,bengal variety4 ,unfortunately1 this superior variety is generally mixed with inferior kinds1 as to have less value4 ,the ,american indigoes are classified as follows3-- ,guatemala floro4--,bright blue1 paste uniform1 soft and light4 ,this variety1 in ,bancroft's time1 was the most esteemed of all indigoes4 ,guatemala sobresaliente4--,less light1 the paste firmer and the blue less beautiful4 ,guatemala corte1 or copper-colored4--,paste less firm and heavier1 coppery red4 ,caraccas4--,these resemble very much the ,guatemala varieties4 ,the qualities are designated by analogous names1 but they are1 in general1 less esteemed than the preceding4 ,mexican4--,they hold an intermediary rank between the ,caraccas and ,mexican4 ,brazil4--,these indigoes are in small rectangular parallele-piped masses1 or in irregular lumps of a greenish gray color externally1 and having a smooth fracture1 a firm consistency1 and a copper-colored tint of greater or less brilliancy4 ,the indigoes of ,africa and ,egypt4--,these have only been manufactured within the last twenty years2 they are in flat squares4 ,the paste is fine and quite light1 and the color pure blue or bordering on violet4 ,the varieties are distinguished as fine blue and good violet and red4 ,indigoes of the ,isle of ,france and ,senegal4 ,rare in commerce1 but of good quality4 ,the indigoes of the inferior qualities1 characterized by a salt-like color1 bordering more or less upon green2 by a coarse1 uneven1 and very dense paste2 by not adhering to the tongue1 and by not showing a coppery color when scratched1--can never be employed to advantage1 notwithstanding their low price4 ,the purchaser of these qualities must be guided solely by the results of analysis2 for an article is found in commerce whose richness in indigotine does not exceed twelve to fourteen per cent4 ,the presence of so high a proportion of foreign matter prevents the chemical change which the indigo ought to undergo in the dyeing vat2 and this foreign matter1 added to the deposits of the dyeing vats1 causes great loss of the coloring matter4 ,these indigoes should be used as little as possible1 especially in the cold vats used for dyeing cotton and linen4 ,the middle varieties of the ,bengal and ,guatemala indigoes1 and1 above all1 the red varieties1 produce in the cold vats the most advantageous results4 ,the lower qualities above spoken of present less inconvenience in the hot vats used for dyeing wool2 and it is for this purpose that they are generally used4 ,in considering the previous observations1 the wool manufacturer may arrive at this conclusion3 that while he can1 with less loss than the maker of cotton fabrics1 make use of the lowest qualities of indigo1 he will obtain the best results from the middle qualities of the reddish ,bengal indigoes4 ,the skilled dealers in indigo recognize not only the above distinctions1 founded upon the country of production1 color1 and physical qualities1 but they observe whether the article has any of the following defects1 which are designated by certain well-understood terms3 such as whether the indigo is sandy1--when brilliant points are observed in the interior1 which are in reality particles of sand2 spotted1 that is to say1 of unequal tint1 and marked by small blackish points2 ribboned1 marked by transversal bands of a paler1 and sometimes red color2 burnt1 the pieces having a scorched appearance1 due to rapid drying1 and separating into small black fragments under the pressure of the hand2 crumbly1 when in pieces of irregular figure1 proceeding from fractures of the squares2 cold1 when the indigo does not adhere to the tongue4 ,the above classification is presented with a full knowledge that these distinctions are by no means recognized in the ordinary commerce in this article4 ,it is not1 however1 without interest as an illustration of the minute attention given to this subject in ,europe1 where a higher manufacture requires a nicer investigation of the qualities of materials employed4 ,,determination ,,of ,,the ,,richness ,,and ,,purity ,,of ,,indigoes4 ,it is evident that the commercial form and the high price of this drug favor fraud1 and the desire to illicitly introduce foreign substances into the paste4 ,it is important1 therefore1 that the purchaser should carefully ascertain the actual value of the article which he is to use4 ,he should know not only the proportion of indigotine contained1 which varies in the commercial indigoes from twelve to seventy-five per cent1 but the hardness and density4 ,a good indigo ought to have qualities which can be recognized by the eye and touch alone4 ,the first and the only examination ordinarily made by purchasers is in respect to the physical qualities of the article4 ,different pieces are selected1 and their fresh fracture is attentively observed4 ,the purchaser observes whether the squares are like each other1 and if the parts of the same piece present the same tint4 ,he determines the porosity by the simple means of applying his tongue to the fresh fracture4 ,the more rapid the adherence of the tongue1 the more porous the indigo4 ,by scratching the piece with his finger-nail1 he determines the extent of the coppery reflection1--an important test4 ,from all these characters1 taken together1 the purchaser can form quite a correct idea of the value of indigoes in general2 and the greater number of dyers1 both in ,europe and this country1 are satisfied to make their purchases with only this physical examination4 ,the most experienced dealers in this country make no other examination than the physical one4 ,an eminent indigo broker in ,boston has permitted me to copy the following memoranda for the physical examination of indigo from his notebook4 ,the chief signs of good indigo are its lightness1 feeling dry when touched1 and1 when broken1 appearing of a beautiful violet blue4 ,good indigo swims in water2 if thrown upon burning coals it emits a violet-colored smoke1 and leaves but little ashes4 ,in selecting indigo the large regularly formed cakes should be preferred1--those of a fine1 rich blue color1 extremely free from the white adhesive mould#a1 and of a clean1 neat shape4 ,when broken1 it should be of a bright purple cast1 of a close and compact texture1 free from specks or sand1 and when rubbed with the nail should have a beautiful shiny coppery appearance2 when burnt in a candle it should fly like dust2 that which is heavy and dull colored should be rejected4 ,indigo is estimated and classed in commercial language1 as follows3 fine blue1 ordinary blue1 fine purple1 inferior purple1 and violet1 strong copper1 and ordinary copper4 ,it is purchased by the factory maund 7#gd lbs4 ,the ,bazaar maund is #hb lbs471 packed in cases containing on an average #b cwt41 dammered 7pitched7 and covered with gunny bagging4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- #a ,many experienced purchasers in this country pay no regard to this mould1 as it weighs scarcely any thing4--,ed4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,still1 in making large purchases1 as a measure of wise precaution the chemical test should be added4 ,this is used to ascertain the proportion per cent of indigotine which a given indigo has4 ,the determination of the quality of indigotine contained is not alone sufficient to fix the value of an indigo4 ,with an equal yield of indigotine1 the indigoes are always to be preferred which have a light and soft paste2 and for the preparation of the indigo vat the preference should be always given to the violet red rather than to the clear blue indigoes4 ,the chemical works which treat of this subject give elaborate details of a great number of processes for determining by chemical tests the amount of indigotine1 or the coloring material in indigoes4 ,to give these numerous processes would only confuse the reader4 ,in our own confusion upon this subject we submitted the descriptions of these various processes to one of the most eminent and practical of ,american chemists1 ,dr4 ,charles ,t4 ,jackson1 an official ,state ,assayer for the ,state of ,massachusetts1 who has had much experience in testing indigo1 with a request that he would describe the process which he approves and practises4 ,he has obliged us by the following communication3-- ,boston1 ,nov4 #ba1 #ahgb4 ,no4 #dg ,court ,street1 ,room #d4 ,john ,l4 ,hayes1 ,esq4 ,dear ,sir1--,in reply to your inquiry as to the simplest method of analyzing indigo1 ,i would say that ,i first ascertain the amount per cent of earthy matters and metallic oxides1 in the samples brought to me1 by burning a weighed quantity in a counterpoised platinum crucible1 until all organic matters are removed or consumed1 and then weighing the ashes obtained4 ,the ash is then subjected to analysis in the usual way1 and lime1 alumina1 peroxide of iron1 and some other earthy impurities are separated4 ,then1 to determine the amount of coloring matter1 or indigotine1 ,i make use of a standard sample of pure reduced indigo1 which is dissolved in the most concentrated sulphuric acid1 and diluted with water after solution4 ,then ,i ascertain how much bleaching powder 7chloride of lime7 is required to dissolve the solution4 ,this is the quantity required for absolutely pure indigo4 ,now1 the indigo of commerce does not contain more than say from forty or fifty per cent of pure indigotine1 and of course will require a smaller quantity of bleaching powder to decolor it2 or the quantity of bleaching powder to decolor a given weight of pure indigo may be weighed out1 and the sample to be compared having been dissolved in strong sulphuric acid1 and diluted with water1 is to be poured in and stirred or shaken well until the point of decoloration is ascertained4 ,in this case it is best to weigh out at least twice as much of the sample to be tested as was used of pure indigo1 and to measure the solution in a graduated glass vessel1--an alkalimeter1 for example1--so that by measure we may know exactly how much of the sample we add to the solution of bleaching powder4 ,thus the relative coloring values of the samples may be readily ascertained4 ,if you have no purified indigo on hand1 you can make a good comparative trial of your samples against a perfectly good sample of ,bengal indigo1 which may be kept for a standard of comparison4 ,very useful practical results may thus be obtained4 ,it is well1 however1 to keep on hand a standard sample of pure indigo1 prepared from reduced or white indigo1 as directed by ,berzelius 7vol4 vi4 page #c1 ,french ed41 #ahcb71 and in ,muspratt's ,chemistry applied to the ,arts 7,dyeing1 ,indigo74 ,in the analysis by reduction of indigo1 the process is simply as follows3 ,reduce the indigo to fine powder1 and weigh it2 weigh out an equal quantity of pure quicklime 7made from pure white marble74 ,measure in a graduated vessel a certain volume of water4 ,slack the lime with a portion of this water4 ,the rest of this water is to be used in rubbing up the indigo in a mortar4 ,then the slacked lime is to be mixed with the indigo1 rubbing the substances well together4 ,introduce the whole into a large flask2 #a to #b litres 7about #c to #d pints7 of water is required for #a gramme 7or about #ae grains of indigo74 ,the flask and contents are then to be exposed to a heat of from #agf to #aij ,f4 for some hours4 ,this is best effected in a water bath4 ,by this digestion the lime is made to combine with the indigo brown1 and the coloring matter is set at liberty4 ,dissolve in the liquor a little protosulphate of iron1 exempt from copper1 and reduced to a fine powder4 ,the flask is to be corked and well shaken1 and allowed to cool4 ,when the sediment is settled1 decant the clear solution by means of a syphon into a graduated glass4 ,the coloring matter oxidizes by exposure to the air2 and to favor this oxidation and to keep the lime in solution1 add muriatic acid to the liquor4 ,when the liquor has become clear1 filter and collect the precipitate on a weighed filter1 which wash with hot water1 and dry at a temperature of #bab ,f4 ,thus we can learn1 by weighing the filter again1 how much indigotine is contained in the sample4 ,if we make use of #bjj measures of water1 and have drawn off #ej measures of the solution to oxidate1 and this #ej measures has produced #aj grains of indigo1 the whole sample evidently contained #dj grains of indigo blue4 ,this method serves both for an assay of the sample and the production of a standard sample of pure indigotine4 ,the operation may be carried on upon a larger scale for the manufacture of a standard sample4 ,yours truly1 ,c4 ,t4 ,jackson4 ,dr4 ,jackson adds the following note3-- ,in the processes given ,i have not referred to the qualitative analysis or testing for all the kinds of adulterations1 but have given only valuation of the coloring power of indigo4 ,i have had occasion to search indigo for ,prussian blue1 an occasional adulterant4 ,this is ascertained by caustic potash1 which becomes in part an oxide if ,prussian blue is present4 ,this acidulates with muriatic acid1 and1 tested with sulphate of iron1 proves1 by formation of ,prussian blue1 the presence of the ferrocyanide of potash in the solution1 and hence ,prussian blue in the indigo4 ,lime and clay are the usual adulterants1 and oxide of iron is often present accidentally or from the clay adulterants4 ,starch and flour are rarely used1 as they add little to the weight4 ,c4 ,t4 ,j4 ,,commerce ,,in ,,indigo4 ,before proceeding to a consideration of the practical applications of indigo in manufacturing1 we must pause to make some general observations upon the commerce in indigo4 ,the first ,european impulse given to this commerce was made by the ,spanish and ,portuguese4 ,they not only imported indigo from the ,indies1 but established its fabrication in their colonies4 ,to them we owe its production in ,guatemala1 ,caraccas1 and ,brazil4 ,the ,french exported from the ,island of ,san ,domingo1 only1 in #aggd1 #b1cej1jjj pounds weight of this commodity4 ,british influence was exerted in favor of the development of this article in the ,american colonies1 and1 in #aggc1 in the space of twelve months1 over a million pounds of indigo were exported from ,south ,carolina4 ,the production in ,india was at that time of little importance4 ,it was not until #aghc that the attention of the ,english was directed to the culture of indigo in ,india for ,european consumption1 that produced by the natives being all consumed in their own manufactures4 ,in the hands of the ,english this product rapidly rose to be the most important of ,india1 in a commercial view1 except that of rice4 ,the small cost of a factory1 and the comparatively small capital required for this production1 caused the indigo culture to be preferred to sugar planting4 ,the importation and sale of this commodity at the ,east ,india ,house1 in #agib1 amounted to #eha1hbg lbs41 while the importation into ,great ,britain from other parts of the world amounted to #a1bhe1ibg lbs4 ,in #ahjf the importation from the ,east ,indies1 and sales at the ,east ,india ,house1 amounted to #d1haa1gjj lbs41 and produced in sterling money #a1fhe1bge4 ,in the year #ahfb-fc1 the export from ,india1 and the destination of supplies1 were as follows3-- ,destination4 ,quantity4 ,value4 ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,united ,kingdom #h1ecg1acc lbs4 #a1fbg1jce ,america #acd1jfd #bf1idi ,arabian and ,persian ,gulfs #cdc1jcg #cc1che ,france #a1ibb1abj #cga1cif ,germany #he1fhj #ae1ejd ,suez #bie1bfi #ea1gcj ,other places #i1egg #hae ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,total #aa1cbf1hhj lbs4 #b1abf1had ,the value of exports in #ahff was #a1hfa1eja4 ,in the same year the imports of indigo from the whole of ,central ,america1 including ,honduras1 was #fgb1dhj lbs4 ,the consumption of indigo in ,great ,britain did not increase during the ten years ending with #ahfg4 ,this stationary demand1 notwithstanding the fall in the price of the drug and increase of population1 is attributed by ,mc,culloch principally to the decreasing use of blue cloth4 ,it is more probably due to the substitution of cheaper dyes4 ,the average home consumption in ,great ,britain for seven years ending in #ahfg1 was #a1fge1jgb lbs4 per year4 ,the importation into this country for the twenty years last past is shown by the following table1 kindly prepared at our request by the chief of the ,bureau of ,statistics3-- ,statement of ,imports of ,indigo into the ,united ,states during the ,fiscal ,years ended ,june #cj1 #ahec-ahgb4 ,,indigo4 ,fiscal ,year ended ,june #cj ,,free ,,of ,,duty4 ,,dutiable4 ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,pounds4 ,dollars4 ,pounds4 ,dollars4 #ahec #a1chg1hdg #idg1cfg #ahed #a1ife1ghi #a1bhb1cfg #ahee #b1jig1cig #a1aea1eaf #ahef #a1gcb1bij #a1jfc1gdc #aheg #a1ecc1jcg #a1jaj1eji #aheh #a1fdg1gfg #ide1jhc #ahei #a1ggc1hfh #a1dda1dbi #ahfj #a1gjg1aaf #a1dac1gij #ahfa #ahe1jci #afj1ach #gai1efc #eje1gff #ahfb #b1eja1jeb #c1bha1dda #ahfc #hhe1hcd #a1jjh1ahg #agh1cfd #bai1afi #ahfd #fhd1hac #fbc1djf #hig1hba #fga1hii #ahfe #gda1dch #fja1bhc #dae1ege #cbd1bjg #ahff #gih1hee #fji1afj #dd1ffj #da1bfh #ahfg #a1jfi1ejf #haf1igd #ahfh #hgj1afd #gge1gea #ahfi #a1egd1ddi #a1fdi1eej #ahgj #a1bgj1egi #a1bjc1ffd #ahga #a1iid1agb #b1jeb1bbb #ahgb #a1ebf1hfi #a1dhd1gdd ,,edward ,,young1 ,chief of ,bureau4 ,bureau of ,statistics1 ,nov4 #af1 #ahgb4 ,the extraordinary quantity imported in #ahfb1 we hardly need remark1 was due to the demand for consumption in army cloths4 ,indigo imported directly1 was made free of duty in #ahfa4 ,the duty which appears by the above table to have been charged since that period1 was upon indigo1 the product of ,india1 imported by way of ,england1 which was subject to an extra duty of ten per cent4 ,the indigo consumed in the ,united ,states is generally supplied by the ,boston and ,new ,york ,calcutta houses1 who have either an ,american partner resident in ,calcutta1 or who employ a resident ,american as agent4 ,indigo1 like other ,calcutta goods1 is sold through the agency of brokers1 who receive on this article a commission of one per cent4 ,the value of the article is known almost daily in these cities by telegrams1 giving exact information of the state of the trade1 transmitted from ,calcutta as often as every five days4 ,some of the brokers publish monthly circulars1 showing the stock of indigo with other ,calcutta goods on hand in our market4 ,the regular trade reports issued by the ,india merchants show that ,the higher qualities of indigo do not come to our market4 ,the following is an extract from a report of ,whitney1 ,brother1 ,co41 of #ahga3-- ,indigo for ,continent fine #cej to #cfb rupees4 good #ccj #cde middling #caj #cbe ,american consuming fine #bhj #cjj good #bej #bge middling #bjj #bdj low and ordinary #aej #agj ,at the present moment there is great depression in the trade in this article4 ,the last telegrams show a decline of price in the ,indian trade in this article of from fifty to seventy-five per cent from the prices of last year2 and the apprehension is even entertained that indigo is going out of use1 the dreaded competitors being the aniline dyes1 and particularly the ,nicholson blue4 ,we maybe presumptuous in giving our opinion on the question1 but we hazard the prediction that1 notwithstanding the temporary popularity of the cheap substitutes1 a reaction will take place in favor of that 8wonderful and most valuable production10 whose importance as a dye has been held in ,india for thousands of years and ,europe for two centuries1 8greatly to exceed any other40#b ---------------------------------------- --------------------- #b ,the 8,dictionnaire ,universel du ,commerce10 c41 published in #ahfa1 contains an exhaustive article on the commerce in indigo1 by ,m4 ,s4 ,beekrode4 ,from the statements of this writer1 it appears that the consumption of indigo was estimated1 in #ahce1 as follows3-- ,great ,britain #a1bad1chj kilograms 7#b1fhc1ggi7 lbs4 ,france #iab1iae 7#b1jag1edb7 ,united ,states #acj1jjj 7#bgg1cjj7 ,other countries #b1dce1dgc 7#e1chb1cie7 --------- ----------- ,total #d1fib1gfh kilograms 7#aj1cfb1jaf7 lbs4 ,the approximate consumption in #ahei is stated as follows3-- ,great ,britain #hjj1jjj kilograms 7#a1gfh1jjj7 lbs4 ,france #hjj1jjj 7#a1gfh1jjj7 ,united ,states #djj1jjj 7 #hhd1jjj7 ,russia #hfj1jjj 7#a1ijj1fjj7 ,the ,zollverein #a1bej1jjj 7#b1gfb1ejj7 ,switzerland #aej1jjj 7 #cca1ejj7 ,austria #djj1jjj 7 #hhd1jjj7 ,other countries #cjj1jjj 7 #ffc1jjj7 --------- ----------- ,total #d1ifj1jjj kilograms7#aj1ifa1fjj7 lbs4 ,the average production in #ahei is estimated as follows3-- ,bengal1 ,madras1 c4 #c1ejj1jjj kilograms 7#g1gce1jjj7 lbs4 ,java #eej1jjj 7#a1bae1ejj7 ,central ,america #cjj1jjj 7 #ffc1jjj7 ,other sources #ajj1jjj 7 #bba1jjj7 --------- ----------- ,total #d1dej1jjj kilograms 7#i1hcd1ejj7 lbs4 ,as the maximum annual consumption in #ahei is set down at #e1jjj1jjj kilograms1 the author concludes that the average production at that time did not surpass the requirements of the dyers of the whole world4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,,former ,,production ,,in ,,the ,,carolinas4 ,as pertinent to the commercial branch of our subject1 we must briefly notice the remarkable facts of the sudden growth and equally sudden and extraordinary extinction of the production of indigo in the ,carolinas4 ,indigo was for many years the second great staple of ,south ,carolina4 ,so highly was this staple estimated that the historian of the ,state declares that 8it proved more really beneficial to ,carolina than the mines of ,mexico or ,peru are or ever have been to ,old or ,new ,spain40 ,its introduction was the happy result of a woman's culture and energy4 ,in the early part of the last century1 the indigo plant had been extensively cultivated in the ,west ,india ,islands1 which then furnished the chief supply of ,europe4 ,the governor of ,antigua1 ,george ,lucas1 whose home plantation was at ,wappoo in ,carolina1 having observed the fondness of his daughter1 ,miss ,eliza ,lucas1 afterwards the mother of ,general ,charles ,cotesworth ,pinckney1 for the culture of plants1 was in the habit of sending to her tropical seeds to be sowed on his plantation at ,wappoo4 ,among others1 he sent her some seeds of the indigo plant cultivated in the ,west ,indies4 ,she planted them for two years2 but the seeds failed to germinate1 or were killed by the frost4 ,on the third year's trial1 in #agda or #agdb1 she was successful4 ,governor ,lucas1 on hearing that the plants had ripened and produced seed1 sent from ,montserrat a person skilled in making indigo4 ,vats were built on ,wappoo ,creek1 and there the first ,american indigo was manufactured4 ,the attempts of the expert to conceal his processes were defeated by the vigilance of ,miss ,lucas4 ,the process of manufacture was made known4 ,seeds from the ,wappoo plantation were freely distributed and successfully planted2 and the culture of indigo became common4 ,in #agdg1 a considerable quantity of indigo was sent to ,england1 which induced the merchants trading with ,carolina to petition parliament for a bounty on ,carolina indigo4 ,in #agdh1 an act of parliament was passed granting a bounty of sixpence per pound on indigo raised on ,british-,american plantations and imported directly to ,britain from its place of growth4 ,this act stimulated the planters of ,carolina to double vigor in the production of this new material for export4 8,many of them10 says ,dr4 ,ramsay1 8doubled their capital every three or four years by planting indigo40 ,in the year #aged1 the export of indigo from the province amounted to #baf1ibd lbs41 and in the years #aggb and #aggc the export had risen to #a1ajg1ffa lbs4 ,the production was greatly checked by the war of the ,revolution4 ,near the close of the century the large importations from ,india lowered the price1 so as to make the planting unprofitable4 ,in the mean time1 the culture of cotton had sprung up under the protective tariff of #aghi4 ,the grounds suitable for indigo planting were equally fitted for cotton1 and were for the most planted with the new staple4 ,it is curious to observe how the former was displaced by the latter staple4 ,the export of indigo from ,charleston in #agig was #if1aba lbs43 in #ahjj1 it fell to #c1djj lbs4 ,during the same years1 the exports of cotton rose from one million to six and a half million pounds4 ,the production of ,american indigo appears to have revived from time to time up to #ahbi4 ,a writer of that period in ,silliman's ,journal of ,science estimates--although it would seem on doubtful authority--the production of indigo in the ,united ,states at #bj1jjj lbs4 ,the price of the ,american article had fallen1 owing to the great quantity of extractive which it contained1 to fifty cents per pound1 while the ,bengal indigo was worth #a4ae per pound4 ,we have no data as to its production at the present time1 but infer1 from the fact that no reference has been made to this product in the ,government ,agricultural ,reports for many years past1 that the production1 if any1 is too unimportant to be noticed4 ,,industrial ,,application ,,of ,,indigo4 ,all the applications of indigo require that the material should first be reduced to an impalpable powder4 ,it is better to grind it with water1 to prevent the loss of material in the form of powder1 although the dry pulverization is necessary when the indigo is to be used for the manufacture of the sulphate4 ,to facilitate the grinding the material into a paste1 it should be previously soaked in hot water from one to three hours4 ,the grinding on a small scale may be done by a very simple apparatus4 ,this is a hemispherical vessel of copper or cast-iron1 eighteen inches in diameter1 furnished at the edge with two handles4 ,the workman1 sitting astride a bench1 places the vessel before him1 in which he places three heavy cast-iron balls1 the indigo which has been softened1 and a sufficient quantity of water4 ,holding the basin by the handles1 he gives it a circular oscillatory movement1 in such a manner that the balls1 following this movement1 crush the indigo which surrounds them2 after which the contents are poured into another vessel1 water is added1 and the material is stirred4 ,the portions incompletely ground are made to reunite themselves at the bottom by means of regular blows with a hammer on the rim of the vessel4 ,the upper liquid is decanted1 and the deposit is submitted to a new manipulation in the basin4 ,in large establishments the grinding is done by machinery4 ,an apparatus highly recommended1 consists of two circular plates of cast-iron1 arranged horizontally and slightly separated1 one from the other1 which are rapidly rotated by power1 in inverse1 directions4 ,the interior surfaces of these disks are provided with deep grooves radiating in a curved line from the centre to the circumference1 and diminishing in depth in the same direction4 ,the indigo which has been previously softened enters between the two plates by an opening in the centre of the upper one1 and escapes in a thin paste by the circumference4 ,the application of indigo to the coloring of textile fabrics requires the complete dissolving of the substance1 for which the mechanical division is only a preliminary4 ,there are only two known means of dissolving this substance3 #a4 ,by reduction2 #b4 ,by the action of concentrated sulphuric acid4 ,the first means allows indigotine to be regenerated2 and1 when the dyeing is completed1 it is pure indigotine which adheres to the colored fibre4 ,by the second means1 or dissolving by sulphuric acid1 the coloring material enters into a new combination1 from which it can never be separated3 it becomes a new substance1 endowed with new and special properties4 ,the fixing of ,indigotine by means of ,reduction4--,in this method the operator avails himself of one of the most remarkable qualities of indigotine3 this is the facility with which this body takes up hydrogen1 and becomes transformed into a colorless substance1 which is soluble in favor of alkaline or alkaline-earthy bases1 and is susceptible of reproducing indigotine by simple oxidation in contact with air4 ,this hydrogenized substance is called white indigo4 ,blue indigo1 or indigotine1 is insoluble except by concentrated sulphuric acid2 and this insolubility gives it its superiority to all other blue dyes4 ,not being soluble1 it cannot1 as blue indigo1 attach itself to the material to be dyed2 but in the soluble form of white indigo it can perfectly penetrate the fibre4 ,if by any means of oxidation we can transform the white indigo into blue indigotine1 the latter becomes insoluble1 and is imprisoned in the pores of the fibre4 ,this is1 briefly1 the whole theory of the use of indigo in dyeing or printing1 although the reaction may be applied in different ways to the coloring of fibres1 such as-- #a4 ,the indigo is dissolved by means of an alkaline reduction in a vat1 and the fibre is immersed in the bath4 ,this is the common blue vat4 #b4 ,the solution prepared beforehand is painted by a hair pencil and printed by a stamp or roller upon only certain parts of the tissues4 ,this is the pencil blue4 #c4 ,the white indigo is precipitated under the form of a paste1 in combination with a metallic oxide having strong reducing power1 such as hydrated protoxide of tin1 which prevents the too rapid reoxidation of the indigotine4 ,the thickened paste is printed1 and the tissue is placed in an alkaline bath 7lime or soda71 which1 displacing the oxide of tin1 forms a soluble combination of white indigo4 ,the latter can then penetrate the fibre1 and afterwards become fixed by reoxidation4 ,this is the printer's solid blue4 #d4 ,the finely ground1 but not dissolved indigo1 is placed upon the tissue in such conditions that it can be dissolved and reduced in place4 ,this done1 the fixing of the indigotine is effected by oxidation4 ,this is the method for ,china blue or bleu faence4 ,without dwelling upon the details of these methods1 we hasten to a consideration of the most important of all the applications of indigo3-- ,,dyeing ,,by ,,the ,,indigo ,,vat4 ,the ,copperas ,vat4--,for dyeing cotton1 the method of reduction found by experience to be the most convenient and practical is founded upon the action of the hydrate of the protoxide of iron in the presence of lime4 ,the hydrated protoxide of iron is obtained from sulphate of iron 7green vitriol1 or copperas7 with freshly burned lime4 ,certain precautions should be observed in the use of these materials4 ,the copperas used for the preparation of these vats should be free from sulphate of copper1 because the oxide of copper which would be formed in the vats rapidly oxidizes the reduced indigo1 and causes its precipitation in the bath4 ,the copperas ought not to contain red oxide of iron1 nor sulphate of alumina4 ,the coppery or oxidized vitriol may be purified by boiling the solution with pieces of iron1 which precipitates the iron and neutralizes the oxide4 ,the lime ought to be pure1 containing no magnesia2 when slacked lime has been exposed to the air1 even for a short time1 it absorbs carbonic acid1 and becomes converted into chalk4 ,the lime1 therefore1 should always be newly slacked4 ,the ingredients1 then1 of a copperas vat are water1 pure or purified green vitriol1 indigo ground into a homogeneous impalpable paste1 and pure and freshly slacked lime4 ,the proportions used in different establishments are exceedingly variable4 ,those which answer for a laboratory vat1 or a small vat used for precipitating the white indigo immediately for printing1 are3 indigo1 one part2 sulphate of iron1 two parts2 slacked lime1 three parts4 ,these proportions are not enough for the large vats used in dyeing pieces4 ,in them it is necessary to make the quantities of lime and sulphate of iron larger than the theory of the vat requires4 ,the excess of lime and hydrate of iron serve the purpose1 whenever the vat is stirred1 to repair the losses of indigo caused by its oxidation from contact with the air4 ,schutzenberger gives the proportions generally used by the dyers of ,france1 as follows3-- ,indigo #a part4 ,crystallized sulphate of iron #c ,freshly slacked lime #c ,others1 he says1 use more lime than copperas1 as in the following proportion3-- ,indigo #b parts4 ,sulphate of iron #e4e ,quicklime #f4e ,m4 de ,kppelin1 who is especially familiar with the cotton dyeing in ,mulhouse1 describes the ordinary vats for cotton dyeing as bound with iron1 and placed on the level of the ground4 ,they hold from #c1jjj to #d1jjj litres 7#a1jee gallons7 of liquid4 ,in preparing them the dyer fills them about three-quarters full of water1 and pours in a milk of lime1 prepared with #de kilograms 7#ajj lbs47 of freshly slacked lime2 a fine liquid paste having been previously made from #ae kilograms 7#cc lbs47 ground in water4 ,this is added to the lime in the vat by portions1 the liquid in the vat being stirred up by a rake after each portion of the indigo paste has been added4 ,the indigo becomes dissolved in about twenty-four hours1 when the vat can be used4 ,after describing the manner in which the frame1 or champignon1 containing the goods to be dyed is arranged and immersed in the vat1 this author continues3 8,it will be understood that the vat is composed according to the degree of intensity of the color which is sought to be obtained1 and that hues more or less deep may be obtained by means of more or fewer repeated immersions of the fabric to be dyed4 ,after each immersion the champignon is lifted out of the vat1 and the fabrics are left to ungreen themselves by contact with the air4 7,it must be observed that1 although soluble indigo is called white1 because it is without color when carefully prepared in the laboratory1 the goods1 when first taken from the ordinary vat1 are of a green color47 ,exposed to the air1 the soluble indigo is precipitated in the state of blue indigo upon the fibres of the tissue4 ,this oxidation1 or dehydryzation1 may be hastened by plunging the tissue into a vat containing a solution1 very much diluted with water1 chloride of lime1 bichromate of potash1 or sulphuric acid4 ,the first two act as oxidizing agents2 the last facilitates the restoring of the blue indigo by depriving it of the lime which is in excess in the solution of indigo which the tissue has imbibed from the vat40 ,he adds further3 8,to facilitate the formation of blue indigo in the interior of the fabrics1 the stuff to be dyed may be previously impregnated by a saline solution1 which has the property of precipitating the white indigo from the alkaline solution1 and of fixing itself more rapidly upon the tissue4 ,oxide of copper and oxide of manganese possess these properties in a high degree1 and are used in many establishments to hasten the dyeing process1 and produce an economy in raw materials4 ,the pieces of cloth are placed in a solution of sulphate of copper1 in the proportion of #ae to #bj grams to the litre 7#b4aa pints71 and lightly thickened with starch4 ,the fabrics1 thus impregnated by a kind of mordant1 before receiving the blue dye are first passed through a weak bath of milk of lime1 which fixes the oxide of copper upon the tissue4 ,the blues thus obtained are more intense1 and have a peculiar lustre4 ,this process is used in ,austria and ,germany1 where cotton fabrics are printed on both sides of the tissue40 ,coming to the ,english authorities1 ,dr4 ,grace ,calvert1 in his recent lectures before the ,society of ,arts1 speaking of the cold vat for dyeing cotton1 says3 8,the oldest1 and still most generally employed method of preparing cold vats1 consists of putting into a vat containing about #bjjj gallons of water #fj lbs4 of indigo1 very finely powdered1 #ahj lbs4 of slacked lime1 and #abj lbs4 of sulphate of protoxide of iron1 or green vitriol 7free from any trace of copper salt71 the two latter substances being added from time to time4 ,the greater part of the lime used unites with the sulphuric acid of the iron salt1 to produce sulphate of lime or gypsum2 and the liberated protoxide of iron removes the oxygen from the indigo1 becoming converted into saline oxide1 whilst the reduced indigo dissolves in the excess of lime employed40 ,he adds the following facts1 which may be of practical value3-- 8,messrs4 ,r4 ,schloesser ,co41 of ,manchester1 have introduced within the last year or two a marked improvement1 in the preparation of cold vats1 which removes the great objections of the bulky precipitate of sulphate of lime1 the formation of an oxide of iron1 and the loss of indigo by its combination with the oxide of iron4 ,the bath remaining much more fluid1 the pieces are less apt to be spotted1 and a better class of work is produced4 ,to carry out their process1 they add to the ordinary #b1jjj gallon vat #bj lbs4 of ground indigo1 #cj lbs4 of iron borings1 #cj lbs4 of their remarkable powdered zinc1 and #ce lbs4 of quicklime2 the whole is stirred up from time to time1 for twenty-four hours1 when it is ready for use4 ,if the bath is not considered sufficiently strong1 a little more lime and zinc are introduced4 ,the chemical theory of the process is1 that the zinc1 under the influence of the lime1 decomposes the water1 combining with its oxygen1 and the hydrogen thus liberated removes oxygen from the indigo which then dissolves in the lime40 ,an excellent description of the processes employed at ,manchester1 ,england1 in preparing and working the copperas1 or cold vat1 is given in ,ure's 8,dictionary of ,manufactures40 8,the ingredients necessary for setting the vat are copperas1 newly slacked quicklime1 and water4 ,various proportions of these ingredients are employed1 as1 for instance3 #a part by weight of indigo 7dry71 #c parts of copperas1 and #d of lime2 or1 #a of indigo1 #b of copperas1 and #c of lime2 or1 #h of indigo1 #ad of copperas1 and #bj of lime2 or1 #a of indigo1 of copperas1 and #bj of lime2 or #a of indigo1 #d of copperas1 and #a of lime4 ,the sulphate of iron should be as free as possible1 from red oxide of iron1 as well as sulphate of copper1 which reoxidize the reduced indigo-blue4 ,the vat1 having been filled with water to near the top1 the materials are introduced1 and the whole1 after being well stirred several times1 is left to stand for about twelve hours4 ,the chemical action which takes place is very simple4 ,the protoxide of iron1 which is set at liberty by the lime1 reduces the indigo-blue2 and the indigo1 which is then dissolved by the excess of lime1 forming a solution1 which1 on being examined in a glass1 appears perfectly transparent and of a pure yellow color1 and becomes covered1 whenever it comes in contact with the air1 with a copper-colored pellicle of regenerated indigo-blue4 ,the sediment at the bottom of the vat consists of sulphate of lime1 peroxide of iron1 and the insoluble impurities of the indigo1 such as indigo-brown in combination with lime1 as well as sand1 clay1 c4 ,if an excess of lime is present1 a little reduced indigo-blue will also be found in the sediment in combination with lime4 ,the dyeing process itself is very simple4 ,the vat having been allowed to settle1 the goods are plunged into the clear liquor1 and1 after being moved about in it for some time1 are taken out1 allowed to drain1 and exposed to the action of the atmosphere4 ,while in the liquid1 the fabric attracts a portion of the reduced indigo-blue4 ,on now removing it from the liquid1 it appears green1 but soon becomes blue on exposure to the air1 in consequence of the oxidation of the reduced indigo-blue4 ,on again plunging it into the vat1 the deoxidizing action of the vat does not again remove the indigo-blue which has been deposited within and around the vegetable or animal fibre1 but1 on the contrary1 a fresh portion of the reduced indigo-blue is attracted1 which1 on removal from the liquid1 is again oxidized like the first1 and the color thus becomes a shade darker4 ,by repeating this process several times the requisite depth of color is attained4 ,this effect cannot1 in any case1 be produced by one immersion in the vat1 however strong it may be4 ,the beauty of the color is increased by finally passing the goods through diluted sulphuric or muriatic acid1 which removes the adhering lime and oxide of iron4 ,after being used for some time1 the vat should be refreshed or fed with copperas and lime1 upon which occasion the sediment must first be stirred up1 and then allowed to settle again1 so as to leave the liquor clear4 ,the indigo-blue1 however1 is in course of time gradually removed1 and by degrees the vat becomes capable of dyeing only pale shades of blue4 ,when the color produced by it is only very faint1 it is no longer worth while using it1 and the contents are then thrown away4 ,in dyeing cotton with indigo1 it seems to be essential that the reduced indigo-blue should be in contact with lime4 ,if potash or soda are used in its place1 it is impossible to obtain dark shades of blue40 ,,fermenting ,,vats ,,for ,,wool ,,dyeing4 ,the application of indigo-blue to wool and woollen tissues is always made by means of vats1 which have special names2 as1 the pastel or woad vat1 the urine vat1 ,german vat1 molasses vat1 c4 ,the reduction or hydrogenation of the indigo-blue is the result of a peculiar fermentation1 which is developed within an alkaline liquor by means of nitrogenized substances and bodies rich in sugar or hydrocarbonized substances4 ,it is known that in these conditions1 especially where the temperature is slightly raised1 the sugar is converted into butyric acid1 and at the same time carbonic acid and hydrogen are set free4 ,we find here the source of the nascent hydrogen which fixes itself upon the indigo-blue1 and transforms it into white indigo1 which is soluble in the alkalies of the vat4 ,it has recently been observed that the butyric fermentation proceeds from the development of minute infusoria4 ,these animalcul live without any supply of oxygen1 and1 in fact1 are killed in its presence4 ,they therefore live at their ease in the vat of reduced indigo1 where no oxygen is permitted to enter4 ,the ingredients most usually employed for furnishing the hydrocarbonaceous substances for fermentation are bran and ground madder1 although molasses is sometimes used4 ,the nitrogenized material is found in the woad or pastel1 which is often added in very large proportions to the fermenting vats4 ,it is observed by the chemists who have studied this subject most carefully1 that the preparation of vats1 founded upon the principle of fermentation1 does not repose upon principles so sure and constant as those of the copperas vat1 and that many unforeseen accidents interpose to disturb the work of an inexperienced dyer4 ,the phenomena in fermentations are often complex4 ,it is admitted that in these phenomena theory has not said its last word1 and that empiricism is often more fortunate than science4 ,in conducting the operations of the warm fermenting vat1 the conceit of the practical dyer1 so often remarked upon1 is not without foundation4 ,by practical experience and the traditions of his art he has acquired a knowledge of the almost insensible modification in conditions which can change or arrest the chemical reaction4 ,it is the knowledge of the workman1 a knowledge almost instinctive1 which can never be communicated to the books1 and which is most respected by those most profoundly informed in theory4 ,the ,woad or ,pastel ,vat4--,in former times woad1 already referred to1 was the only material known to the dyers of ,europe for producing the blue color of indigo4 ,for dyeing wool1 the use of woad1 now abandoned wholly in cotton dyeing1 has been retained to the present day1 generally for the purpose of exciting fermentation1 and without regard to its effect in imparting color to the material to be dyed2 for the woad grown in ,england1 and used in the dye-houses of that country1 contains no trace of coloring matter4 ,the woad1 or pastel1 grown in the warmer districts of ,france contains about two per cent of indigotine1 which is regarded in that country as an important addition to the coloring material1 especially for improving the tone of the color4 ,various substitutes1 such as rhubarb leaves1 turnip and carrot tops1 and weld1 have been tried1 but without advantage1 with the exception1 perhaps1 of weld1 which is still used by some dyers4 ,some chemists regard the use of woad as the remnant of a prejudice2 but the better opinion is1 that this material possesses peculiar fermentiscible qualities1 whose exact action science has yet to resolve4 ,according to ,schutzenberger1 the most recent and highest ,french authority1 the dimensions of the pastel vat are about #f feet in diameter1 by #i in depth4 #ajj kilograms 7#bba lbs47 of pastel1 in balls1 is placed in the vat1 which is then filled with boiling water4 ,to this is added #aj kilograms 7#bb lbs47 of madder1 #c to #d kilograms 7about #f to #h lbs47 of bran1 and #d kilograms of quicklime1 which has been slacked1 and in the form of a bouilli4 ,sometimes weld is also added4 ,after three hours of rest1 the vat is well raked1 and the operation is repeated every three hours4 ,there is gradually developed a characteristic ammoniacal vapor1 and a blue scum1 with veins of deeper blue1 forms on the surface2 and the liquid1 when agitated in the air1 rapidly becomes blue4 ,these symptoms indicate the dissolution of the indigotine of the woad2 then there is added #aj kilograms 7#bb lbs47 of indigo which has been previously ground in water1 and the vat is stirred4 ,if the fermentation appears to be proceeding too actively1 which is recognized by the disengagement of gases1 it is checked by the addition of a proper dose of lime4 ,on the other hand1 the fermentation is made more active by increasing the dose of bran4 ,the first dyes are not so good as those subsequently obtained1 as the woad absorbs from the bath certain brown or yellow materials1 kept in solution1 and furnished as well by the pastel and madder as by the indigo itself4 #ajj kilograms of wool require from #h to #ab kilograms of indigo4 ,the vat is kept up by successive additions of indigo and lime1 made in the evening4 ,another kind of pastel vat1 prepared much like the last1 receives an addition of a dose of potash4 ,m4 de ,kppelin describes it as the one at present in general use in ,france4 ,into a vat containing from #c1jjj to #d1jjj litres 7#gia to #a1jee gallons7 there is placed #ge kilograms 7#aff lbs47 of pastel in loaves1 or which has undergone a kind of fermentation2 or1 what is preferable1 #hj to #ajj kilograms 7#agf to #bba lbs47 of pastel or woad gathered without fermentation1 and #aj kilograms 7#bb lbs47 of indigo1 ground to a paste with water4 ,this mixture is well stirred1 and there is added #d kilograms 7about #i lbs47 of ,avignon madder1 and the same quantity of carbonate of potash4 ,after the vat has been well raked there is added #b kilograms 7#d lbs47 of slacked lime1 and some pails of bran4 ,the vat is well covered1 either with a wooden lid1 or woollen cloths4 ,the fermentation is allowed to proceed1 and after five or six hours the vat is uncovered and raked with much care for half an hour4 ,this operation is repeated every three hours1 until it is recognized that the indigo is well dissolved4 ,in this case the bath ought to be of a beautiful yellow color1 and be covered with a light blue irised film1 veined with yellow at the least movement given to the liquid4 ,if the fermentation proceeds too rapidly1 a little lime is added to moderate it4 ,for keeping up a vat like this1 and to obviate the different inconveniences to which it is subject1 the dyer sometimes adds lime1 or sugar1 and carbonate of ammonia1 sometimes madder1 or bran1 or even tartar-lees4 ,these last additions are made to saturate the excess of lime which the vat contains4 ,in this case the yellow veins and the beautiful blue scum which cover the surface disappear1 or become pale2 a piquant odor is disengaged1 and the liquor becomes blackish4 ,when lime or sugar are added1 it is for the purpose of retarding the fermentation of the woad4 ,sugar might even entirely take the place of pastel for effecting the reduction of the indigo1 and many establishments in ,france are commencing to use it for this purpose4 ,a good vat1 well supplied with successive additions of indigo1 pastel1 bran1 and madder1 in proportions necessary to effect and prolong the fermentation necessary for the dissolution of the indigo1 may be kept up many years4 ,schutzenberger observes that the vats of fermentation are subject to certain maladies1 the two most frequent of which are due1 one to an excess1 and the other to an insufficient quantity of lime4 8,in the first case1 the liquid takes a tint more and more free of color1 loses its fleure 7surface scum7 and odor2 the fermentation is then arrested by the precipitation of the active matters4 ,this inconvenience is remedied1 if seen in time1 by adding sulphate of iron1 which eliminates the too great excess of lime4 ,in the second1 the fermentation becomes too active1 passes into a putrid fermentation1 and the liquid assumes a reddish tint2 a fabric dyed with indigo in this state becomes very soon discolored4 ,the sole means of safety is to heat the bath up to #ij and to add lime4 ,if this does not accomplish the purpose of arresting the putrefaction the vat is lost40 ,the following account of the method of dyeing woollen goods with indigo by means of the woad vat is given by ,dr4 ,ure1 as that carried on in ,yorkshire1 the great centre of the woollen manufacture of ,england4 8,the dye-vats employed are circular1 having a diameter of six feet six inches1 and depth of seven feet1 and are made of cast-iron five-eighths of an inch in thickness4 ,they are surrounded by brickwork1 a space of three inches in width being left between the brickwork and the iron1 for the purpose of admitting steam1 by means of which the vats are heated4 ,the interior surface of the brickwork is well cemented4 ,in setting a vat the following materials are used3 #e cwt4 of woad1 #cj lbs4 of indigo1 #ef lbs4 of bran1 #g lbs4 of madder1 #aj quarts of lime4 ,the woad supplied to the ,yorkshire dyers is grown and prepared in ,lincolnshire4 ,it is in the form of a thick1 brownish yellow paste1 having a strong ammoniacal smell4 ,the indigo is ground with water in the usual manner4 ,the madder acts in promoting fermentation1 but it also serves to give a reddish tinge to the color4 ,the lime is prepared by putting quicklime into a basket1 then dipping it in water for an instant1 lifting it out again1 and then passing it through a sieve1 by which means it is reduced to a fine powder1 called by the dyers ware4 ,the vat is first filled with water1 which is heated to #adj ,f41 after which the materials are put in1 and the whole is well stirred until the woad is dissolved or diffused1 and it is then left to stand undisturbed overnight2 at six o'clock the next morning the liquor is again stirred up1 and five quarts more of lime are added2 at ten o'clock five pints of lime are again thrown in1 and at twelve o'clock the heat is raised to #abj ,f41 which temperature must be kept up until three o'clock1 when another quart of lime is introduced4 ,the vat is now ready for dyeing4 ,when the process of fermentation is proceeding in a regular manner1 the liquid1 though muddy from insoluble vegetable matter in suspension1 is of a yellow or olive yellow color2 its surface is covered with a blue froth or copper-colored pellicle1 and it exhales a peculiar ammoniacal odor2 at the bottom of the vat there is a mass of undissolved1 matter of a dirty yellow color4 ,if there is an excess of lime present1 the liquor has a dark green color1 and is covered with a grayish film1 and1 when agitated1 the bubbles which are formed agglomerate on the surface1 and are not easily broken4 ,cloth dyed in a liquid of this kind loses its color on being washed4 ,this state of the vat is remedied by the addition of bran1 and is of no serious consequence4 ,when1 on the other hand1 there is a deficiency of lime1 or1 in other words1 when the fermentation is too active1 the liquor acquires first a drab1 then a clay-like color2 when agitated1 the bubbles which form on its surface burst easily1 and when stirred up from the bottom with a rake it effervesces slightly1 or frits1 as the dyers say4 ,if the fermentation be not checked at this stage1 putrefaction soon sets in1 the liquid begins to exhale a fetid odor1 and when stirred evolves large quantities of gas1 which burns with a blue flame on the application of a light4 ,the indigo is now totally destroyed1 and the contents of the vat may be thrown away4 ,no further addition of woad is required after the introduction of the quantity taken in first setting the vat1 the fermentation being kept up by adding daily about four pounds of bran with one quart or three quarts of lime4 ,indigo is also added daily for about three or four months4 ,the vat is then used for the purpose of dyeing light shades1 until the indigo contained in it is quite exhausted1 and its contents are then thrown away40 ,this author adds3 8,woollen cloth1 before being dyed1 is boiled in water for one hour1 then passed immediately under cold water4 ,if it be suffered to lie in heaps after being boiled it undergoes some change1 which renders it afterwards incapable of taking up color in the vat4 ,in dyeing1 the cloth is placed on a net-work of rope attached to an iron ring1 which is suspended by four iron chains to a depth of about three feet beneath the surface of the liquor4 ,the cloth is stirred about in the liquor by means of hooks for about twenty or thirty minutes4 ,it is then taken out and well wrung4 ,it now appears green1 but1 on being unfolded and exposed to the air1 rapidly becomes blue4 ,when the vat has an excess of lime the cloth has a dark green color when taken out4 ,it is then passed through hot water1 and dipped again if a darker shade is required40 ,the ,indian ,vat4--,this presents much analogy to the woad vat1 as the fermentation of vegetable matters effects the transformation of the indigo-blue4 ,according to ,dr4 ,calvert1 the ,indian vat1 probably so called from its origin in the ,east1 is taking the place in ,england of the old woad vat for dyeing wool and woollens4 ,he describes its preparation as follows3 #h lbs4 of powdered indigo is added to a bath containing #c lbs4 of bran1 #c lbs4 of madder1 and #ab lbs4 of potash1 which is maintained for several hours at a temperature of #bjj ,f4 ,it is then allowed to cool to #ajj ,f41 when fermentation ensues4 ,after about forty-eight hours the indigo is rendered soluble1 being reduced by the decomposition of the sugar and other products contained in the bran and the madder root during the process of fermentation4 ,the distinguishing feature of this vat is the use of potash4 ,the ,indian or potash vats are spoken of by the best authorities as more easy to manage than the woad vat4 ,they are less subject to accidents1 and yield their coloring material more readily to the fibre1 while three times as much wool can be dyed in the same time4 ,on the other hand1 they do not last so long1 and require to be renewed at the end of twenty-five or thirty days4 ,besides1 the fibres dyed in the potash vat have a darker shade than those dyed in the woad vat1 owing to the large quantity of the coloring matter of the madder dissolved by the potash1 which becomes fixed on the stuff with the indigo-blue4 ,the ,urine ,vat1 but little used except for domestic dyeing1 is founded upon the same principles as the other fermenting vats4 ,this excretion1 when putrefied1 contains at the same time the nitrogenized principles which work as ferments and the alkali in the form of ammonia necessary for dissolving the indigo4 ,according to ,dr4 ,calvert1 improvements have been made of late years in the fermenting indigo vats by which the expense of madder is avoided4 ,they are now prepared by adding to water1 at a temperature of #bjj ,f41 #b buckets of bran1 #bf lbs4 of soda crystals1 #ab lbs4 of indigo1 and #e lbs4 of slacked lime4 ,after five hours the bath is allowed to cool to #ajj ,f41 when fermentation ensues1 and the indigo is dissolved in the alkali4 ,this is1 in fact1 the ,german vat1 soda taking the place of the potash1 and the only fermenting material consisting of bran4 ,the ,german ,vat is largely used by the dyers in the north of ,france1 and is considered as more advantageous than the ,indian vat1 because the employment of soda is more economical than that of potash1 while the vat can be maintained as long as two years4 ,the vats used by them are prepared as follows3 ,the water is heated to a temperature of #ie1 and receives #bj pails of bran1 #aa kilograms 7about #bd lbs47 of crystals of carbonate of soda1 #e4e kilograms 7#aa lbs47 of indigo1 and #d lbs4 of slacked lime4 ,after twelve hours1 the temperature having been kept at #dj or #ej1 fermentation commences1 the liquid becomes of a greenish blue color1 and disengages bubbles of gas4 ,indigo1 soda1 and lime are put in from time to time in the proportions above indicated1 and also from six to eight pounds of molasses4 ,at the end of the third day the vat is fit for use4 ,m4 de ,kppelin1 writing in4 #ahfd1 informs us that the reduction of indigo by means of molasses1 is at present largely employed in the great establishments for dyeing woollen cloth at ,sedan1 ,louviers1 and ,elbuf4 ,the vat used is of very large dimensions1 and from twenty-two to twenty-six pounds of indigo are dissolved in it2 an equal weight of molasses is used1 and three or four times the same weight of potash made caustic by a proportionate addition of lime4 ,the space reserved for this subject in our present paper will not permit us to enter upon a description of the processes used in the ,american dye-houses4 ,this1 as well as the applications of indigo in printing1 and the uses of sulphate of indigo1 must be deferred to another number4 ,let us1 in concluding the first part of our paper1 at the risk of repetition1 bring out in bolder relief a statement which presents the philosophy of all the various processes of the indigo vat1 and at the same time1 a conclusive argument for the use of this material1 in preference to all cheaper substitutes4 ,indigo cannot enter into a fibre until it is dissolved4 ,it cannot be dissolved so long as it is in a blue state4 ,when reduced by any of the processes above described to the white state1 it is easily dissolved1 and can enter the pores of the fibre4 ,upon exposure to the oxygen of the air it takes up an equivalent of oxygen2 it returns to the blue state1 and1 being then insoluble1 it cannot be washed away from the fabric1 and being saturated with oxygen it cannot be changed by air or light4 ,this theory of the application of indigo involves a lesson to manufacturers1 dealers1 and consumers1 especially of woollen fabrics4 ,the theory1 as well as experience1 dating back to the dawn of the textile arts in the ,east1 establishes that this material is incalculably superior to any other1 in permanence at least1 for imparting to woollen fibre a blue color1 or as a foundation for most of the darker colors4 ,by far the largest proportion of all cloths are of dark colors1--blue1 black1 green1 brown1 gray1 or mixed1--and can advantageously receive in all or a portion of the fibre constituting them a direct dye or bottom for other dyes from indigo4 ,it may be safely stated that1 as a whole1 no cloths in the world are manufactured from such good wool as those produced in the ,united ,states4 ,we might expect that the shoddy goods of ,yorkshire should be further falsified by fugacious dyes2 but is it not a shame that our admirable wool should be deprived of half its value by parsimony in dyeing8 ,the slightest shortcomings in dyeing are revealed in wear4 ,the writer cannot forbear referring to an illustration directly before his eyes4 ,he is wearing a garment1 reduced now to the retired service of an office coat1 made of an admirable cheviot cloth of ,american manufacture4 ,the cloth originally was selected not only for its excellent texture1 but as an illustration of philosophical principles applied in the formation of color4 ,the tissue was made by weaving three yarns of distinct colors1--blue1 yellow1 and red4 ,either of those hues alone would have been glaring and conspicuous1 but1 by the law of color1 the combination of blue1 red1 and yellow makes black1 and the new cloth at a distance had the effect of a dark mixture4 ,upon exposure to ordinary wear1 the yellow and red have retained their pristine hues2 the blue1 not being indigo dyed1 has faded2 and the original dark mixture1 although sound in fabric1 has become of a yellowish brown4 ,the extra expense of a permanent dyeing material forms so small a proportion of the whole cost of a finished garment1 that it ought not to be generally spared4 ,the reform cannot be made by the manufacturers2 it must be made by the dealers1 and especially by that class of producers which has risen in our day into such great importance1--the manufacturers of ready-made clothing4 ,if they would demand of the manufacturers1 and furnish to their customers cloths more permanently dyed1 it would be another step in the direction to which these establishments are tending1--the supply of the chief portion of the woollen clothing of the people4 ,the manufacturers would gladly aid them2 for it is the growing sentiment of ,american manufacturers that all their productions should be1 in the proverbial phrase adopted from the dye-house1 as expressing the highest excellence1--true blue4 ,,bibliography4 ,citations of authorities having been but partially made in the preceding article1 the writer1 for the purpose of giving his sources of information1 and for the convenience of those who wish to pursue the subject further1 appends a list of the more important works which he has consulted3-- ,schutzenberger's ,trait des ,matires ,colorantes1 t4 ii4 7the most recent and best modern authority72 ,bancroft's ,philosophy of ,permanent ,colors1 vol4 i42 ,edinburgh ,encyclopdia2 ,berzelius1 ,trait de ,chimie1 t4 vi2 ,chevrueil1 ,leons de ,chimie ,applique ,teinture1 t4 iii42 ,dumas1 ,chimie ,applique aux ,arts1 t4 viii2 ,wurtz1 ,dictionnaire de ,chimie1 #ahgb1 art4 ,indigo2 ,indigo et son ,emploi1 par ,de ,kppelin2 ,annales du ,gnie ,civil1 #ahfd1 t4 iii42 ,lectures of ,dr4 ,grace ,calvert1 ,chemical ,news1 ,aug4 #i and #bc1 #ahgb2 ,o',neill's ,dictionary of ,dyeing and ,printing2 ,napier's ,chemistry ,adapted to ,dyeing2 ,muspratt's ,chemistry ,applied to the ,arts1 articles ,indigo and ,dyeing2 ,ure's ,dictionary of ,manufactures1 ed4 of #ahfj2 ,proceedings of ,royal ,society1 vol4 xvi42 ,proceedings of ,literary and ,philosophic ,society of ,manchester1 vol4 iv42 ,mc,culloch's ,dictionary of ,commerce1 ed4 #ahfi2 ,dictionnaire ,universel du ,commerce1 c41 ed4 #ahfa2 ,south ,carolina ,production4--,ramsay's ,history2 ,drayton's ,south ,carolina2 ,silliman's ,journal1 vol4 xviii4 ,a more complete bibliography is given in ,schutzenberger's work4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,we entered upon the subject of indigo1 which we have treated at some length in our last issue1 as much in the interest of the people as of manufacturers1 for we were deeply impressed with the conviction that no improvement in our manufacturing processes would confer more benefit upon the masses than imparting stability of color to the clothing of the people4 ,when one has a deep conviction upon a subject1 upon which others have equal opportunities for judging1 he may be sure that he is not alone in his impressions4 ,he is moved by one of those waves of thought which1 operating simultaneously upon many minds1 gives that uniformity to public opinion at which we so often wonder4 ,we are gratified to find1 from responses to our last article1 that we are not alone in our conviction of the importance of reviving 8true blue0 dyes4 ,the head of a mercantile house1 the extent of whose clientle in mills both of wool and cotton is hardly surpassed1 has assured us that we have not overstated the reform in dyeing which we have advocated4 ,he had long shared in our convictions4 ,pointing to the throng of men in the crowded street1 where we were conversing1 he remarked that there was hardly a man in the crowd whose clothing would not have been improved by indigo dye4 8,the failure to use indigo dyes10 he emphatically said1 8costs the laboring people of this country millions of dollars every year4 ,the fault is not to be charged to our own manufacturers alone2 for the blue coat which ,i wear1 and which ,i bought in ,paris1 annoys me by the crocking caused by its aniline dye40 ,in one very large mill of which he is director as well as selling agent1 he is putting his principles in practice4 ,all the heavy blue cloths intended for popular consumption are faithfully dyed1 and each bears a stamp1 8,warranted indigo dyed40 ,the ready-made clothing establishments which largely consume these goods have already found their advantage in purchasing them1 and a similar stamp is attached to each article made from this cloth4 ,some of our most celebrated cotton fabrics have won and still retain their reputation by the use of indigo dyes4 ,the ginghams are a signal illustration4 ,the blue check is formed by weaving cotton yarns dyed blue in the cold indigo vat with undyed yarns4 ,these goods can be washed indefinitely without change4 ,another illustration is the famous ,a4,b4,a4 ,amoskeag tickings1 an article of such excellence that the question of the right to use trade-mark ,a4,b4,a4 gave rise to the leading ,american case in this branch of law4#c ,a prominent feature in these goods was and still is the permanence of the dye in the blue stripe1 produced by the cold indigo vat4 ,still another illustration is the blue and white 8shirting stripe0 first made by ,mr4 ,samuel ,batchelder1 at the ,hamilton ,mills1 now so generally adopted for sailors' shirts4 ,the indigo dye enables the color to resist the roughest possible usage4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- #c ,see the case stated at length in our article on ,trade-marks1 ,bulletin1 vol4 i4 p4 #ajb4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,to recur to the application of indigo dyeing to wool and woollens4 ,we have been unable1 although we have written more than fifty letters of inquiry upon the subject1 to learn of any peculiarity or improvements in the ,american processes of wool dyeing with indigo4#d ,our dyers are for the most part foreigners4 ,for this reason1 or because the art of indigo dyeing has long since reached perfection in the best establishments abroad1 they rigidly pursue the old ,european methods4 ,the best dyers regard the successful management of the warm fermenting vats for wool as the highest test of their art4 ,we have already spoken of the complicity of the phenomena in fermentations4 ,practical dyers endow the fermenting vat with a sort of personality4 8,an indigo vat10 says one to us1 8is more like a sick man than any thing in the world3 you have to watch it as you would a sick patient1 and give it physic or ferments to stir up the system and purify it40 #e ,the diagnosis of a sick vat requires that sort of instinctive knowledge which experience gives to the practised physician4 ,the impatience of our young ,americans will not permit them to serve the long apprenticeship necessary to acquire the proper experience4 ,the artisans not thoroughly trained will naturally prefer the dyes and processes introduced by modern science1 which require but little skill in their application4 ,it is a curious fact that the influence of the national government has been largely instrumental in preserving the old system of indigo dyeing4 ,thanks to the ,quartermaster-,general's ,bureau1 or the man of science1 ,general ,meigs1 who presides over it1 indigo dyed cloths have been persistently insisted upon for the army4 ,the late war gave a new impulse to indigo dyeing4 ,a skilled dyer1 whom we have consulted1 was constantly employed in ,connecticut1 on a tour of professional inspection of a dozen or more different establishments making army goods4 ,no doctor1 he says1 ever found in hospital practice more complications of disease than he found in the ailing vats4 ,among other difficulties there was a deficiency of imported woads1 although the cultivation of excellent woad immediately sprung up in ,connecticut4 ,in the mean time carrot and rhubarb tops were used as substitutes for the fermenting material of the woad4 ,carrot-tops grown expressly for that purpose brought as high as twenty-five cents per pound4 ,since the war the requisitions for indigo dyed woollen goods have not relaxed1 and the art is not likely to be lost4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- #d ,a reply by ,mr4 ,d4 ,r4 ,whitney1 an extensive indigo importer1 to a letter of inquiry1 enables us to correct some errors in our former article1 under the head of 8commerce in indigo40 ,the value of export from ,india in #ahfb-fc1 stated in dollars1 through a typographical error1 should have been pounds sterling2 thus1 instead of #b1abf1had1 read #b1abf1had4 ,it is stated in our first article that the telegrams show a decline of price of indigo in the ,indian trade of from #ej to #ge per cent2 8per cent0 should read 8rupees10 which would make a decline of from #be to #cj per cent4 ,the reason for the decline1 as stated by ,mr4 ,whitney1 is the unusually large crop of this year4 ,the average crop of indigo in ,bengal is about #ajj1jjj maunds4 ,the crop of this year is #ace1jjj maunds1 about #cj to #ce per cent above the average4 ,according to ,mr4 ,whitney1 the consumption of ,bengal indigo in the ,united ,states was #b1deh cases of #bgj lbs4 to a case on an average1 in #ahga2 and in #ahgb1 #a1hjb cases4 ,guatemala indigo1 #c1acb serroons in #ahga1 and #b1egh serroons in #ahgb4 #e ,see notes on 8sickness0 of vats in ,appendix4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,with the real difficulties which attend the process1 it is hard for indigo dyeing to sustain itself in the face of cheap substitutes of easy application1 such as the ,nicholson blue4 ,it is exceedingly difficult to piece dye with indigo and preserve a uniform hue upon the cloth4 ,hence indigo dyes are generally given in the wool4 ,the wool absorbing the foreign material of the dye is more difficult to work in the operations of carding and spining4 ,in other words1 a finer and costlier wool is required4 ,a great desideratum therefore is a means of piece dyeing with indigo so as to preserve a perfect uniformity of hue throughout the piece4 ,this1 we are happy to say1 has been recently successfully accomplished by one of the largest and most faithful of our cloth-making establishments4 ,it would be premature1 before the patents are secured for this invention1 to explain the ingenious and expensive apparatus devised for this purpose1 which constitutes in fact a battery of vats so arranged that the operation may be continuous4 ,the experiments authorize the statement that bottom dyes of indigo1 so desirable for a great variety of colors1 can be applied with no other additional cost than that of the dyeing material4 ,when this establishment1 as it proposes1 stamps upon the cards which designate goods1 already so admirable in material and texture1 8,warranted indigo dyed10 we shall regard it as an era in the ,american card-wool manufacture4 ,the old ,european woad vat process is that used in all our establishments4 ,mr4 ,henderson of the ,washington ,mills1 whose experience as a practical dyer of wool is exceptionally large1 informs us that he has found no work so instructive upon this process as ,napier's 8,chemistry of ,dyeing0 7published by ,henry ,carey ,baird1 of ,philadelphia1 #ahfi74 ,napier's description of the process is extracted from ,dumas's 8,lectures on ,dyeing40 ,the appreciation expressed by so competent a judge induces us to reprint ,dumas's description in an appendix to this article4 ,that we may give at least a general view of the whole subject1 we will proceed to consider indigo in some relations not yet adverted to4 ,in ,part ,i4 of our notes we have treated only of the application of this substance in dyeing by means of reduction through the indigo vat4 ,indigo may be applied by means of reduction in the printing of fabrics1 as well as in dyeing them4 ,a true scientific arrangement would compel us next in order to consider this other application of indigo by means of reduction4 ,but the more natural and practical order is to pursue the subject of dyeing1 and to consider next the applications of the derivatives from indigo in dyeing proper4 ,,sulphuric ,,derivatives1--,,saxon ,,blue1 ,c4 ,the powerful action of sulphuric acid upon indigo1 and the bright and lively blue color thereby produced1 had been observed by chemists long ago2 but no person appears to have applied this color upon cloth1 until it was done about the year #agdj1 by ,counsellor ,barth1 at ,grossenhein1 in ,saxony4 ,the vividness of the dye1 and the facility with which it was applied1 brought it into great vogue under the name of ,saxon blue1 from its origin4 ,its popularity in former times is evinced by the words of the old song1 8,the ,blue ,bells of ,scotland30-- 8,in what clothes1 in what clothes is your ,highland laddie clad8 ,his bonnet's of the ,saxon blue1 his waistcoat of the plaid40#f ---------------------------------------- --------------------- #f ,first sung by ,mrs4 ,jordan1 about the year #agii4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,the ,saxon blue consists simply of a solution of indigo1 the ,guatemala blue indigo being preferred1 in sulphuric acid suitably diluted with water4 ,the result of this reaction is not a single chemical substance1 but two acids giving different tints1 one called sulpho-purpuric acid or phenicine1 and the other sulpho-indigotic acid2 the first giving to wool a reddish-violet color1 and the other a pure blue4 ,a third compound has been indicated by ,berzelius1 the nature of which has not been determined4 ,whether one or the other of the two named acids1 or the two combined1 shall be produced by the reaction between the sulphuric acid and the indigo1 depends upon the duration of the contact1 the temperature of the mixture1 and the nature and proportion of the acid used4 ,persoz gives the following general receipt3-- 8#a part by weight of indigo1 finely rubbed4 #a ,nordhaussen acid4 #a ordinary sulphuric acid4 ,leave for forty-eight hours1 then heat until a drop turned into water will dissolve without producing a precipitate4 ,leave to cool1 and dilute with water till the strength is brought to #ah ,beaum40 ,napier says that he has found the following method of preparing sulphate of indigo1 in quantities for use1 very satisfactory3 8,the indigo is reduced to an impalpable powder1 and completely dried by placing it on a sand bath or flue for some hours at a temperature of about #aej ,f4 ,for each pound of indigo six pounds of highly concentrated sulphuric acid are put into a large jar1 or earthen pot1 furnished with a cover4 ,this is kept in as dry a place as possible1 and the indigo is added gradually in small quantities4 ,the vessel is kept closely covered1 and care taken that the heat of the solution does not exceed #bab;,f4 ,when the indigo is all added1 the vessel is placed in such a situation that the heat may be kept up at about #aej;,f41 and allowed to stand1 stirring occasionally1 for forty-eight hours4 ,these precautions being attended to1 we have uniformly found that any failure occurring was clearly traceable to the impurity of the indigo or weakness of the acid used40 ,the processes for producing and separating the two acids derived from the combination of sulphur and indigo are minutely given by ,berzelius1 in vol4 i4 of his 8,trait de ,chemie10 who states this curious fact illustrative of the peculiar affinities of wool with certain dyeing substances4 ,wool or flannel thoroughly scoured1 when immersed in the blue solution of indigo with sulphuric acid1 acts as a base3 it combines gradually with the acid blue1 and becomes itself colored of a deep blue4 ,when saturated with color1 it is withdrawn4 ,fresh wool is introduced until the bath yields no more color4 ,if sublimed or perfectly pure indigo is used1 there remains in the bath nothing but free sulphuric acid4 ,the wool thus plays the part of a base with which the blue acids combine4 ,the dyed wool is afterwards washed and treated in feeble alkaline bath 7ammonia71 which redissolves the blue4 ,this method of purifying the ,saxon blue is still practised by ,french manufacturers4 ,the combination of indigo with sulphuric acid1 sometimes improperly called sulphate of indigo1 is known by the dyers here and in ,england under the name of chemic4 ,the name of chemic blue or green is also given the dyes formed from the indigo extract hereafter spoken of4 ,it is largely used for making certain greens required in ,scotch plaids4 ,the old ,saxon blue or simple solution of indigo with sulphuric acid is now seldom prepared by the manufacturers themselves4 ,it is now generally prepared for them1 and furnished commercially under the name of indigo extract4 ,the finer qualities used for fine dyeing and printing are known under the name of carmines of indigo1 neutral extract1 soluble indigo1 ceruline1 c4 ,the production of indigo carmines1 which are simply alkaline sulphindigotates or sulpho-purpurates1 is founded upon their insolubility in a liquid charged with a salt4 ,if1 for example1 we dissolve one part of indigo in four parts of fuming acid1 and dilute the liquid with sixty or eighty times its weight of water1 it will contain1 besides the sulphindigotic acid1 an excess of sulphuric acid4 ,by adding one part of crystals of soda so as to neutralize the bath1 there will be formed not only sulphindigotate of soda1 but sulphate of soda3 as the former is insoluble in the saline liquid1 the presence of the sulphate of soda causes the precipitation of the sulphindigotate in deep blue floccules4 ,these are collected on woollen filters and washed to remove the sulphate of soda and a green coloring material1 probably a modified chlorophyl1 which the paste often contains1 and which has the singular property of fixing itself on silk1 but not on wool4 ,the carmines are divided according to their richness in indigo into simple carmine 7#d4if per cent of indigo1 water #hi1 saline materials #eg71 double carmine 7#aj4b per cent indigo1 water #he1 salts #d-h71 triple carmine 7#ab4d per cent indigo water1 #gc4g1 salts #ac4i74 ,a species of solid carmine known as ,boiley blue or purple is in high repute in ,france4 ,the carmines may be tested by dyeing a specimen of wool in an acidulated bath to which cream of tartar has been added4 ,the presence of the green matter1 so objectionable to silk-dyers who make much use of these carmines1 is detected by rubbing a small quantity of the carmine on a piece of glazed paper1 which1 when the color dries1 gives a color varying from blue to a rich copper color3 if any green coloring matter is left1 it shows itself by a green aureola around the blue color4 ,the method of applying the carmines in dyeing wool and silk1--for they are not adapted to cotton fabrics1--as given by ,m4 de ,kppelin1 is as follows3-- ,the operation is conducted in small wooden vats1 provided with openings for manipulation1 and pipes for inducting steam to heat the baths to the proper temperature4 ,it consists of two parts1 that of mordanting and dyeing4 ,the former is thus conducted4 ,for each kilogram of tissue which has been previously scoured and bleached1 there are provided #bjj grammes of cream of tartar and #bej grammes of alum4 ,these are dissolved in the bath of water of the vat1 the temperature is raised to boiling heat1 and the tissue is immersed in the bath f of an hour while it is worked over through the opening for manipulation4 ,the pieces are then taken from the bath1 to which is added a solution of the carmine in water containing a quantity of coloring matter proportionate to the intensity of the blue sought for4 ,the solution ought to be prepared with care and passed through a silk sieve1 so that the small insoluble grains which might have been left through bad fabrication may be left on the sieve4 ,after the pieces have been manipulated in the colored bath1 so as to exhaust the color and obtain the required blue1 they should be rapidly washed in running water and dryed in the shade4 ,silk stuffs are dyed in the same way2 but the alum should be previously applied cold by means of a saturated solution of alum1 in which the stuffs should be immersed for an hour4 ,,colors ,,not ,,fast4 ,in regard to all the combinations of indigo with sulphuric acid1 including the carmines1 it must be observed that their application does not constitute true indigo dyeing3 the colors are not fast4 ,it is not pure indigotine which is fastened on the tissues as in the vat dyeing1 but another compound of indigo with the sulphur4 ,berzelius observes that 8the color of soluble indigo is fully as alterable and fugacious as that of the colors extracted by the decoction of vegetable materials4 ,by a long exposure to the sun the indigo blue is destroyed3 it becomes green during evaporation1 and changes its nature40 ,the carmines as well as the sulphur acids are easily decolorized by reducing agents1 such as hydrogen and sulphuretted hydrogen1 although they gradually assume their original color when exposed to the atmosphere4 ,we are informed by some of the older dealers that imported cloths and merino stuffs known as 8,saxony0 were formerly largely sold in our shops1 but that1 notwithstanding their attractiveness to purchasers1 they were objectionable on account of the instability of their color4 ,,application ,,of ,,indigo ,,in ,,printing ,,stuffs4 ,our notes would be incomplete without some reference to the uses of indigo in printing fabrics4 ,in pursuing this branch1 we are embarrassed on the one hand by the consideration that the subject is too technical for the general reader1 and on the other by the consciousness that it would be presumption in us to attempt to instruct those skilled in the art4 ,it may not1 however1 be without benefit in producing a higher appreciation of science for the general reader to observe how science comes in play1 even in the printing of a single color2 while to the skilled reader our notes may possibly be of value as a vehicle for conveying some receipts taken from works not easily accessible4 ,,printing ,,stuffs ,,of ,,wool ,,and ,,silk1 ,,and ,,stuffs ,,with ,,cotton ,,warps4 ,this branch of our subject is directly allied to the one last considered1 the application of the compounds of sulphur and indigo2 for indigo is applied to printing wool and silk principally in the form of indigo carmines4 ,these applications are less numerous than they were formerly1 since they have been replaced by ,prussian blue1 and more recently by the aniline blues1 which are now generally used4 ,when the carmines are used1 it is for making sky blues1 and they enter into the composition of some greens and browns4 ,the salts of alumina and vegetable acids are used to fix the indigo carmine upon tissues of wool and silk4 ,some receipts recommended by ,m4 de ,kppelin1 himself a practical printer1 are given in a note4#g ---------------------------------------- --------------------- #g ,,blue ,,no4 #a4 ,indigo carmine #djj grammes4 ,alum #ajj ,oxalic acid #aej ,boiling water #a litre ,gum water prepared in proportion of #a kilogram to the litre #a litre ,,green ,,no4 #a4 ,gum water as above #ab litres4 ,cuba lac #ab ,alum #a kilogram1 #ejj grammes4 ,oxalic acid #b ,indigo carmine #d ,,bouillon ,,for ,,the ,,greens ,,and ,,blues4 ,boiling water #ab litres4 ,alum #fjj grammes4 ,oxalic acid #gej ,gum water #ab ,,sky ,,blue ,,for ,,woollen ,,stuff ,,with ,,cotton ,,warp4 ,first solution4--,boiling water #d litres4 ,cyanuret of iron and potash #hjj grammes4 ,second solution4--,boiling water #b ,tartaric acid #cjj ,third solution4--,cold water #c ,sulphuric acid #cjj ,pour in the first solution1 then the second and third1 agitating the color with a spatula after each new addition4 ,the following mixture is afterwards applied to the stuff3-- ,gum water #ab litres4 ,water #f ,blue ,no4 #a for wool #c ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,in printing tissues of wool with cotton warp1 the carmines are not used alone4 ,they are combined in certain proportions with cyanites of iron and potash1 to obtain upon the cotton a blue color of equal intensity with that produced by the carmines upon wool4 ,it is also necessary to previously mordant the fabrics by means of a solution of oxide of tin or caustic soda which is precipitated on the fibres by passing through a bath of water1 to which sulphuric acid has been added4 ,,applications ,,of ,,indigo ,,in ,,printing ,,cotton ,,fabrics4 ,before entering upon methods used in large establishments1 it may not be without interest to observe the processes still used in ,java for printing calicoes1 which the natives prefer to any imported from ,europe4 ,in ,java there are no factories1 and the women in each family make and dye or print all the cotton cloths required for their own consumption4 ,they apply by means of a brush or pencil1 which they use with great skill1 to the cotton tissue which they wish to cover a thin coating of wax mixed with a little resin1 the wax being applied to all the parts where the design1 which has been first traced upon the cloth1 requires that the fabric should remain uncolored4 ,they then immerse the stuff several times in an indigo vat until they have obtained the desired tint4 ,the stuff is afterwards washed and dried for a new application of the wax1 carefully applied with a pencil as before4 ,the cloth is then immersed in a bath of a different color1 made with madder or catechu1 but always of some dye which is perfectly stable2 and the operation is repeated according to the number of colors desired4 ,by these successive applications of wax and immersions into different vats1 they succeed in producing very complicated and harmonious colors1 while no ,european goods compare with them in stability of dye4 ,in the ,european1 and our own manufacture1 the blue bottoms upon vegetable fibres1 made by immersion in the indigo vat1 are combined with white impressions1 or others variously colored1 by two distinct methods4 ,sometimes there is printed upon the cloth before dyeing in the indigo vat a preparation called a reserve or resist1 which prevents the indigotine from being deposited in the places where it is applied4 ,sometimes1 on the contrary1 the indigo1 which has been uniformly fixed upon the fabric1 is destroyed in certain places marked out by printing upon them certain chemical agents1 called discharges4 ,the reserves are mechanical1 resisting the penetration of the dye1 such as wax and pipe clay1 or chemical4 ,the last1 through these acid or oxidizing properties1 cause the precipitation of the indigotine before it has touched the fibre or penetrated into its pores4 ,such are the salts of copper and bi-chlorate of mercury4 ,other bodies perform the part both of mechanical and chemical reserves4 ,the salts of zinc or alumina1 for instance1 which are frequently used1 produce at the same time a deposit of indigo white and a gelatinous covering of hydrated oxide of zinc or aluminium4 ,the composition of a good reserve is declared to be principally a question of good proportions of the constituent parts1 varying with the strength of the vat and the intensity of the blue which is desired to be reserved4 ,the first condition is that it hardens immediately after immersion in the vat3 if it softens1 on the contrary1 it will cause the running of the color4 ,in other words1 the acidity of the impression should be proportionate to the strength and alkaline character of the vat4 ,the white reserve1 that most generally used1 is composed of pipe clay1 gum1 verdigris1 and sulphate of copper4 ,the styles of work produced by dipping with reserves are generally of a cheap and low class4 ,the system is clumsy and expensive1 and is only tolerated because of the want of a method of directly applying indigo1 which will yield the deepest shades4 ,certain styles1 formerly in great vogue1 called ,lapis1 and forming one of the richest branches of the cotton-printing industry1 are founded upon the use of reserves2 and in these styles1 by very simple means which we shall not attempt to describe1 different colors produced from madder1 catechu1 c41 are produced upon the fabric so perfectly surrounded by blue that the eye cannot detect the slightest want of continuity4 ,this fabrication has the greatest perfection in ,russia4 ,the imitation cashmere fabrics of cotton imported from that country1 formerly much in fashion for dressing-gowns1 are specimens of this fabrication4 ,the great stability of the colors is a remarkable feature of these goods4 ,the system of resists or reserves possesses the inconveniences of not producing impressions of great firmness1 and of requiring very strong vats4 ,when the strength of the vat is partially exhausted1 they may be thrown aside4 ,these inconveniences are obviated by the system of discharges 7enlevages74 ,in this system the cloths are vat dyed of a uniform blue4 ,the strength of the vat is of less importance1 and it can be used until the indigo is quite exhausted4 ,the means of destroying the indigo which has been fixed upon the fibre are founded on the use of active oxidizing agents1 which transform the insoluble indigotine into soluble isatine4 ,the agent generally used is chromic acid4 ,as this acid cannot be incorporated with the thickening to be printed1 as the thickening would produce oxide of chrome1 the cloth is passed through a strong solution of chromate of potash1 and dried in the shade4 ,the required pattern is then printed on the cloth with a mixture whose principal elements are acids which are susceptible of setting free the chromic acid on the tissue1 which then acts upon the indigo producing a white pattern4 ,the acid generally employed for freeing the chromic acid is oxalic acid1 thickened with ,british gum1 dextrine1 or starch1 with the addition of pipe clay4 ,to prevent running1 nitric1 sulphuric1 or tartaric acid are sometimes used4#h ---------------------------------------- --------------------- #h ,schutzenberger gives the following receipts3-- ,,preparation ,,for ,,discharge4 ,water #b litres4 ,yellow chromate #ejj grammes4 ,,white ,,discharge ,,on ,,blue ,,bottom4 ,tartaric acid #c kilograms4 ,oxalic acid #bej grammes4 ,burnt starch #d kilograms4 ,nitric acid #ejj grammes4 ,water #d litres4 ,de ,kppelin gives the following3-- ,,white ,,discharge ,,on ,,blue4 ,water #b litres4 ,starch #a kilogram1 #hjj grammes4 ,oxalic acid #ejj grammes4 ,tartaric acid #bej grammes4 ,sulphuric acid #cge grammes4 ,the pieces1 having been dyed blue1 are then placed in a solution of bichromate of potash in water1 which is prepared in the ratio of #ej to #fj grammes to the litre1 according to the intensity of the blue4 ,the pieces thus prepared must be dried away from direct solar light or too much heat4 ,in fact1 under the action of these agents1 the bichromate would be decomposed and the tissue altered4 ,the pieces are often rolled up to prevent this effect4 ,after the pieces are printed1 they are passed into a vessel containing water and holding chalk in suspension in sufficient quantity to give it a milky aspect4 ,the temperature of the bath is raised to #fj ,r4 ,the excess of acid of the color applied is saturated by the chalk1 and the excess of bichromate of potash with which the tissue is impregnated is dissolved in the bath4 ,the pieces are afterwards washed and passed through slightly soapy water4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,by the method of discharges the white designs upon blue are brought out with a distinctness which it is impossible to obtain by resists1 while the most delicate work of the graver can be exactly reproduced upon the tissue4 ,,application ,,of ,,indigotine ,,by ,,printing4 ,the first step in the art of printing indigotine upon calicoes was the application of what is called pencil blue4 ,instead of immersing the fabrics in an indigo vat1 the indigo white formed in a very strong indigo vat was thickened and applied locally to certain places on the cloth4 ,the preparation was painted upon the cloth by means of pencils made of willow sticks1 the ends of which were broomed up into a kind of brush4 ,the style was hence called pencil blue4 ,the methods now used to apply white indigo locally are of two kinds4 ,the china blue process1 and the solid blue process1 sometimes called fast or precipitated blue4 ,the china blue process derives its name from the resemblance of its color to the blue on the old china ware4 ,it has great depth of tint1 and permanency4 ,it is scarcely used now1 except for certain articles requiring great depth of color1 such as certain furniture goods1 and by the ,germans and ,swiss for the manufacture of calicoes for exportation to ,india4 ,we do not venture to condense the descriptions at our hand of the processes for applying the china blue and the solid blue1 and translate those furnished by chemists of high authority4 ,after the method indicated by ,darwin in his recent works1 we present them in smaller type1 with the perhaps unnecessary suggestion that they may be passed over by the general reader4 ,china blue4--,the theory of this printing blue1 says ,schutzenberger1 is very simple4 ,the indigo1 reduced to an impalpable powder and thickened1 is printed by a plate or roller4 ,after drying1 the tissue seems dyed blue1 more or less deep1 according to the proportion of coloring material used2 but it is only a blue of application1 which can be removed with the thickening1 by the slightest washing4 ,the object is now to reduce and redissolve the indigotine in place to enable it to penetrate the fibre at the end of a consecutive oxidization1 and without producing a running of the color or altering the purity and distinctness of the contours of the design4 ,i owe to ,m4 ,ed4 ,schwartz some valuable hints upon the fabrication of this style1 which is also described with much care and details in the treatise on printing by ,m4 ,persoz4 ,the reduction of the indigo is obtained by alternate passages of the printed tissue into vats containing1--the first1 quicklime slacked2 the second1 sulphate of iron2 the third1 soda4 ,the operation is terminated by a passage through a bath of sulphuric acid1 which removes the oxide of iron and precipitates the indigo white by hastening its oxidation4 ,the success depends upon the composition of the color printed1 and above all upon the strength of the vats of immersion and the duration of the treatment4 ,the operator uses six vats1--for instance1 two lime vats1 provided each with #ab kilograms of lime2 a copperas vat at #gj ,beaum2 a caustic soda vat marking #adj ,beaum2 a sulphuric acid vat with #ejj grammes of acid 7par mesure d'eau72 and finally a vat of pure water4 ,the receipts for printing are3-- #a4 ,,the ,,blue ,,preparation4 ,ground indigo #d kilograms4 ,acetate of iron #aj litres4 ,sulphate of iron #a kilogram4 ,water #aj litres4 ,gum ,senegal #f kilograms4 ,pass through a sieve2 leave some time at rest1 and stir whenever used4 ,caraccas indigo is preferred because it can be broken into a finer powder and gives a finer paste4 #b4 ,,colors ,,for ,,roller ,,printing ,,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d4 ,the blue preparation above #a1 #a1 #c1 #d4 ,acetate of iron containing #gjj grammes of gum per litre #b1 #a1 1 4 ,gum water at #fjj grammes per litre #af1 #b1 1 4 ,these proportions can be varied according to the tint desired4 ,the piece is treated a quarter of an hour in the first lime vat by giving it a light movement from above to below2 it is left a quarter of an hour in repose in the sulphate of lime vat2 a quarter of an hour in the second lime vat2 a quarter of an hour in the copperas vat2 five minutes in the caustic soda2 half an hour in the sulphuric acid1 and then thoroughly rinsed4 ,to each lime vat there is given #b kilograms of lime per piece of cloth4 ,to the vitriol vat there is added #ej kilograms of sulphate of iron for each dozen pieces4 ,the soda vat is renewed after #e pieces by the addition of #ab kilograms of salt of soda1 which has first been made caustic4 ,the acid vat receives #be kilograms of acid after #e pieces1 and ought to be renewed whenever it becomes saline4 ,the other vats must be cleared out whenever the deposit becomes too great for success4 ,m4 ,ed4 ,schwartz recommends as important conditions1 7#a7 the perfect causticity of the tissue1 and an average strength of #adj ,beaum2 7#b7 the neutrality of the sulphate of lime vat4 ,for this end old iron should be boiled in it4 ,after leaving the sulphuric acid vat the pieces are rinsed in the water vat1 then in river water1 and afterwards should be soaked in a sulphuric acid bath at #dj ,beaum1 for the purpose of dissolving the last traces of the peroxide of iron adhering to the fibre4 ,the fabric is then washed in water and finally passed through a soapy water at #dj ,r4 ,solid or precipitated blue1 ,schutzenberger's receipt4--,the process consists in printing indigo white precipitated in a vat1 in a thick paste to dissolve it on the tissue by a passage through an alkaline bath 7lime or soda71 and of reprecipitating it by oxidizing it as soon as it has entered the fibre4 ,it is then the china blue process1 minus the reduction which is made before printing1 and consequently minus the sulphate of iron vat4 ,indigo white is too alterable to be printed with success1 so it is generally precipitated in combination with a stannic hydrate 7hydrate of a salt of tin71 which gives it body and preserves it from a too rapid oxidation4 ,the stannic indigotate in paste1 or as it is generally called precipitate of indigo1 is prepared by turning into the clear portion of a strong copperas vat an acid solution of protochlorate of tin1 and filtering it upon woollen filters1--as much as possible away from the air4 ,it would be better to prepare a strong tin vat by heating a mixture of indigo1 caustic soda1 and protochlorate of tin1 and to precipitate by chlorohydric acid4#i ---------------------------------------- --------------------- #i ,mr4 ,t4 ,p4 ,shepard gives in his valuable 8,receipts for ,calico ,printing10 published in #ahgb1 the following3-- ,,no4 #eb4 ,,indigo ,,precipitate ,,for ,,fast ,,blue ,,and ,,green4 #aj pounds quicklime1 slacked with #f gallons water2 then #b pounds ground indigo finely rubbed in water are stirred in2 then add #f pounds copperas dissolved in #e gallons of water2 then add #e gallons hot water and #ae gallons cold water4 ,stir well from time to time1 until the liquid has assumed a yellow color and deep blue veins or streaks appear on its surface4 ,when this moment arrives1 draw off the clear liquor1 and precipitate every ten quarts of it with pound tin crystals1 dissolved in pound muriatic acid4 ,to the remainder of the mixture of lime and indigo1 #ae gallons of water may be added1 and the whole stirred2 and when settled1 the indigo may be precipitated from the clear liquor as before4 ,this operation may be repeated a second time before all the indigo is exhausted4 ,the indigo precipitate is to be collected on a muslin filter1 and well squeezed out4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,the deposit is made into a paste with gum water2 a salt of tin is often added to prevent oxidation4 ,it is important to prevent the transformation of the indigo white into indigotine before printing4 ,this indigotine would not fix itself on the fabric4 ,moreover1 after printing1 it is necessary to hasten the dissolution of the indigo white to enable it to penetrate the fibre4 ,it is sufficient for this end to pass it through milk of lime4 ,the stannic combination is immediately destroyed2 the colorable matter unites itself with the lime1 and the color passes into a pale gray with apple green4 ,the indigo white becomes momentarily soluble2 but the presence of the excess of lime and the thickening1 as well as the attractive affinity of the thickening1 prevent any running4 ,the piece on issuing from the lime water is placed in running water1 when reoxidation commences1 which this time fixes the color4 ,the piece is finally passed through a sulphuric acid bath to absorb the lime1 and washed4 ,by adding to the color a salt whose base precipitates in the milk of lime and oxidizes in the running water1 and replacing the simple acid bath by an acid bath with yellow prussite1 the intensity of the blue is increased through the formation of ,prussian blue4 ,although we have seen beautiful effects from the application of the solid blue of indigo on prints at our ,pacific ,mills1 the colors produced by ,prussian blue and aniline are so much more brilliant and easy of application that the use of indigo in printing goods for ordinary consumption is likely to decline rather than increase4 ,it will be otherwise if we should ever manufacture for the ,east ,india markets4 ,here is a field still open for our manufacturers4 ,mr4 ,watson1 in his beautiful work on 8,the ,costumes of the ,people of ,india10 remarks that 8,british manufacturers have hitherto failed to appreciate ,oriental tastes and habits1 and hence supply but an insignificant part of the clothing of the two hundred million persons that form the population of what is commonly spoken of as ,india40 ,the great defect1 he observes1 is the want of stability of color in the cotton fabrics introduced1--this stability being an imperative demand in the ,oriental markets4 ,the applications of indigo to cotton fabric are altogether secondary1 in our mind1 to its relations to the woollen manufacture4 ,if we have felt called upon to say a word in behalf of the most ancient and best ally which the fibre of wool has ever had1 it is because the vividness of color of the new products of coal1 and the fascination which the application of the recent discoveries of science always possesses1 is threatening the eclipse of the more ancient sober and solid dyes4 ,let the new colors have their place as auxiliaries1 not as substitutes for the ancient dyes4 ,let them serve to give a bloom#aj to goods1 but let the foundation be the good old dyes which the experience of ages has proved to be the most unalterable by light and air4 ,the recent wonderful discovery of alizarine1 or artificial madder1 in coal tar products1 has led practical men to expect too much from science4 ,the opinion is quite prevalent among manufacturers that artificial indigotine has already been obtained from the same source4 ,and some manufacturers are sanguine that the difficulties of indigo dyeing will thus be resolved4 ,it is not improbable--for what is impossible to modern chemistry8--that this result will yet be partially obtained4 ,but we have looked over all the recent foreign chemical reviews1 and personally consulted some of our best chemists1 and we can find no authority for the prevailing opinion that artificial indigotine has been produced4 ,if the production of artificial indigotine should be realized1 the only benefit would be the possible cheapening of the material4 ,the difficulties of the indigo vat would still remain2 for we cannot too often repeat1 that in the very difficulties of the process1 or in the insolubility of blue indigotine by ordinary agents1 consists the excellence of the dye4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- #aj ,guernsey ,blue4--,the darkest of the ,nicholson ,fast ,blues4 ,on a bottom of barkwood1 camwood1 madder1 or inferior indigo1 produces an indigo blue which will stand all the acid tests the same as colors made from indigo4 ,serge ,blue4--,it will be found very serviceable to give bloom to goods dyed with indigo1 and by itself shows a very good indigo test with nitric acid4--,instructions for ,working the ,atlas ,works ,aniline ,dyes4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,,appendix4 ,,dyeing ,,wool ,,in ,,the ,,warm ,,indigo ,,vat4 ,extract from ,dumas's ,lectures on ,dyeing4 ,the value attached by practical wool-dyers to the following induces us to publish it without condensation3-- ,indigo ,blue4--,we give a solid dye of indigo blue to wool by plunging it into an alkaline solution of indigo white1 and then exposing it to contact with the air4 ,the solution of indigo white is prepared in a vessel usually from eight to nine feet in depth1 and six to seven feet in diameter4 ,this size is very convenient for the requisite manipulations1 and presents a large volume of water1 which1 when once heated1 is capable of preserving a high temperature for a long time4 ,this vessel should be made of wood or copper4 ,it always bears the name of vat4 ,these vats are covered with a wooden lid1 divided into two or three equal segments4 ,over this lid are spread some thick blankets4 ,without this precaution the bath would come in contact with the atmospheric air1 a portion of the indigo would absorb oxygen and become precipitated4 ,there would also be a great waste of heat4 ,a most necessary operation1 and one which has to be frequently repeated1 consists in stirring up the deposit of vegetable and coloring matter which is formed in the vat1 and intimately mixing it in the bath4 ,for this purpose we employ a utensil called a rake1 which is formed of a strong square piece of wood1 set on a long handle4 ,the workman takes hold of this with both hands1 and1 dipping the flat surface into the deposit at the bottom of the vessel1 he quickly draws it up until it nearly reaches the surface1 when1 giving it a gentle shake1 he discharges the matter again through the liquor of the bath4 ,this manuvre is repeated until the whole of the deposit seems to be removed from the bottom of the vessel4 ,before the tissue is dipped into the dye-bath1 it should be soaked in a copper full of tepid water2 it is then to be hung up and beaten with sticks4 ,in this state it is plunged into the vat2 it thus introduces less air into the bath1 while it is more uniformly penetrated by the indigo solution4 ,the cloth is now kept at a depth of from two to three feet below the surface of the liquid1 by means of an open bag or piece of network fixed in the interior of an iron ring1 which is suspended by cords1 and fixed to the outside of the vat by means of two small iron hooks2 the bag is thus drawn backwards and forwards without permitting it to come in contact with the air4 ,when this operation has been continued for a sufficient length of time1 the cloth is wrung and hung up to dry4 ,flock wool is also1 for the purpose of dyeing1 enclosed in a fine net1 which prevents the least particle from escaping1 and which is fixed in the bath in the same way as in the foregoing case4 ,the many inconveniences attending the use of wooden baths1 which necessitate the pouring of the liquor into a copper for the purpose of giving it the necessary degree of heat1 have led to the general employment of copper vessels4 ,these are fixed in brickwork1 which extends half way up their surface1 whilst a stove is so constructed at this elevation that the flame shall play around their upper part4 ,by this means the bath is heated and kept at a favorable temperature without the liquor being obliged to be removed4 ,the potash vats are usually formed of conical-shaped coppers1 surrounded by a suitable furnace4 ,these may be constructed with less depth1 inasmuch as there is less precipitation induced in the liquor4 ,by using steam for heating the vats1 we might dispense with the employment of copper vessels1 and so return to those of wood4 ,the vats employed for dyeing wool are known under the names of the pastel vat1 the woad vat1 the potash vat the tartar-lee vat1 and the ,german vat4 ,pastel ,vat4#aa--,the first care of the dyer in preparing the vat should be to furnish the bath with matters capable of combining with the oxygen1 whether directly or indirectly1 and of giving hydrogen to the indigo4 ,we must1 however1 be careful to employ those substances only which are incapable of imparting to the bath a color which might prove injurious to the indigo4 ,these advantages are found in the pastel1 the woad1 and madder4 ,this latter substance furnishes a violet tint when brought into contact with an alkali1 and by the addition of indigo it yields a still deeper shade4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------ #aa ,the distinction between pastel and woad is not very clear4 ,schutzenberger says3 8,pastel1 woad1 and satis tinctoria is a plant of the family of the crucifera4 ,it would seem1 however1 that the term pastel as used by the old ,french dyers is applied to the leaves of the woad which have been fermented1 formed into paste1 and afterwards into balls1 and which contain much blue coloring matter4 ,and the term woad as distinguished from pastel is applied to the unfermented plant40 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------ ,in preparing the ,indian vat1 we ordinarily employ one pound of fine madder to two pounds of indigo4 ,the madder is here especially useful1 by reason of the avidity of some of its principles for oxygen4 ,the pastel vat1 when prepared on a large scale1 ordinarily contains from #ah to #bb lbs4 of indigo2 #aa lbs4 of madder would suffice for this proportion1 but we must also bear in mind the large quantity of water which we have to charge with oxidizable matters4 ,i have invariably seen the best results from employing #bb lbs4 to a vat of this size4 ,bran is apt to excite the lactic fermentation in the bath1 and should therefore not be employed in too large a quantity2 #g to #i lbs4 will be found amply sufficient4 ,weld1 which is often used1 is rich in oxidizable principles2 it turns sour1 and passes into the putrid fermentation with facility4 ,some dyers use it very freely2 but ordinarily we employ in this bath an equal quantity of it to that of the bran4 ,sometimes weld is not added at all4 ,in most dye-houses the pastel is pounded before introducing it into the vat4 ,some practical men1 however1 maintain that this operation is injurious1 and that it interferes with its durability4 ,this is an opinion which deserves attention4 ,the effect of the pastel1 when reduced to a coarse powder1 is more uniform2 but this state of division must render its alterations more rapid4 ,when the bath has undergone the necessary ebullition1 the pastel should be introduced into the vat1 the liquor decanted1 and at the same time #g or #h lbs4 of lime added1 so as to form an alkaline lye which shall hold the indigo in solution4 ,having well stirred the vat1 it should be set aside for four hours1 so that the little pellets shall have time to become thoroughly soaked1 both inside and out1 and thus be prepared for fermentation4 ,some think coverings are to be spread over the vat1 so as to preserve it from contact with the atmosphere4 ,after this lapse of time1 it is to be again stirred4 ,the bath at this moment presents no decided character2 it has the peculiar odor of the vegetables which it holds in digestion2 its color is of a yellowish-brown4 ,ordinarily1 at the end of twenty-four hours1 sometimes even after fifteen or sixteen1 the fermentative process is well marked4 ,the odor becomes ammoniacal1 at the same time that it retains the peculiar smell of the pastel4 ,the bath1 hitherto of a brown color1 now assumes a decided yellowish-red tint4 ,a blue froth1 which results from the newly liberated indigo of the pastel1 floats on the liquor as a thick scum1 being composed of small blue bubbles1 which are closely agglomerated together4 ,a brilliant pellicle covers the bath1 and beneath we may perceive some blue or almost black veins1 owing to the indigo of the pastel which rises towards the surface4 ,if the liquor be now agitated with a switch1 the small quantity of indigo which is evolved floats to the top of the bath4 ,on exposing a few drops of this mixture to the air1 the golden-yellow color quickly disappears1 and is replaced by the blue tint of the indigo4 ,this phenomenon is due to the absorption of the oxygen of the air by the indigogen from the pastel3 in this state we might even dye wool with it without any further addition of indigo2 but the colors which it furnishes are devoid of brilliancy and vivacity of tone1 at the same time that the bath becomes quickly exhausted4 ,the signs above described announce1 in a most indubitable manner1 that fermentation is established1 and that the vat has now the power of furnishing to the indigo the hydrogen which is required to render it soluble1--that contained in the pastel having been already taken up2 this1 then1 is the proper moment for adding the indigo1 which should be previously ground in a mill4 ,we stated above that the liquor of the vat should be previously charged with a certain quantity of lime2 we also find in it ammonia generated by the pastel2 but a part of these alkalies become saturated by the carbonic acid gas along with the proper acids of the madder and of the weld1 as well as by the lactic acid produced by the bran during fermentation4 ,the ordinary guide of the dyer is the odor1 which1 according to circumstances2 becomes more or less ammoniacal4 ,the vat is said to be either soft or harsh2 if soft1 a little more lime should be added to it4 ,the fresh vat is always soft2 it exhales a feeble ammoniacal odor accompanied with the peculiar smell of the pastel2 we must1 therefore1 add lime to it along with the indigo2 we usually employ from five to six pounds1 and1 after having stirred the vat1 it is to be covered over4 ,the indigo1 being incapable of solution except by its combination with hydrogen1 gives no sign of being dissolved until it has remained a certain time in the bath4 ,we may remark that the hard indigoes1 as those of ,java1 require at least eight or nine hours1 whilst those of ,bengal do not need more than six hours1 for their solution4 ,we should examine the vat again three hours after adding the indigo4 ,we ordinarily remark that the odor is by this time weakened2 we must now add a further quantity of lime1 sometimes less1 but generally about equal in amount to the first portion2 it is then to be covered over again1 and set aside for three hours4 ,after this lapse of time1 the bath will be found covered with an abundant froth and a very marked copper-colored pellicle2 the veins which float upon its surface are larger and more marked than they were previously2 the liquor becomes of a deep yellowish-red color4 ,on dipping the rake into the bath1 and allowing the liquid to run off at the edge1 its color1 if viewed against the light1 is of a strongly marked emerald-green1 which gradually disappears1 in proportion as the indigo absorbs oxygen1 and leaves in its place a mere drop rendered opaque by the blue color of the indigo4 ,the odor of the vat at this instant is strongly ammoniacal2 we also find in it the peculiar scent of the pastel4 ,when we discover a marked character of this kind in the newly formed vat1 we may without fear plunge in the stuff intended to be dyed2 but the tints given during the first working of the vat are never so brilliant as those subsequently formed2 this is owing to the yellow-coloring matters of the pastel1 which1 aided by the heat1 become fixed on the wool at the same time as the indigo1 and thus give to it a greenish tint4 ,this accident is common both with the pastel and the woad vats2 it is1 however1 less marked in the latter4 ,when the stuff or cloth has been immersed for an hour in the vat it should be withdrawn2 it would1 in fact1 be useless to leave it there for a longer time1 inasmuch as it could absorb no more of the coloring principle4 ,it is therefore to be taken from the bath and hung up to dry1 when the indigo1 by attracting oxygen1 will become insoluble and acquire a blue color4 ,then we may replunge the stuff in the vat1 and the shade will immediately assume a deeper tint1 owing to renewed absorption of indigo by the wool4 ,by repeating these operations1 we succeed in giving very deep shades4 ,we must not1 however1 imagine that the cloth seizes only on that portion of indigo contained in the liquor required to soak it4 ,far from such being the case1 experience shows that1 during its stay in the bath1 it appropriates to itself1 within certain limits1 a gradually increasing quantity of indigo4 ,we have here1 then1 an action of affinity1 or perhaps a consequence of porosity on the part of the wool itself4 ,woad ,vat4--,these vats are extensively employed at ,louviers1 and in the manufactories of the north of ,france4 ,the bath is prepared in the same manner as in the foregoing case2 the finely cut root is introduced into the copper along with #b lbs4 of pounded indigo1 #i lbs4 of madder1 and #ae lbs4 of slaked lime4 ,the liquor is1 after the necessary ebullition1 poured upon the woad4 ,this substance contains but a very small quantity of coloring principle2 we must1 therefore1 add some indigo when preparing the vat1 so as to indicate the precise instant when the mixture arrives at the point of fermentation so necessary for imparting hydrogen to the coloring principle1 and for rendering it soluble4 ,we must also use a larger quantity of lime1 since the woad contains no ammonia resulting from previous decomposition1 such as we find to be the case with the pastel of the south4 ,when the vat is in a suitable state of fermentation1 a rusty color becomes manifest1 in addition to the signs already described in speaking of the pastel vat2 besides the ammoniacal odor1 the bath always retains the peculiar smell of the woad4 ,the pounded indigo is now added1 and we proceed1 in the manner already detailed1 to reduce it to a state of solution fit for dyeing4 ,the vats prepared by means of pastel have greater durability than those made with the woad2 but it is thought that the colors given by the latter are more brilliant than those obtained from the former dye4 ,modified ,pastel ,vat4--,this vat is about #g feet in depth1 and #f feet in diameter4 ,it is made of copper1 and heated by steam4 ,the lid is composed of three segments1 each of which is formed of two planks1 about an inch thick1 and strongly secured together by bolts4 ,the beating is performed in the usual way1 with sticks before the first dipping1 after having moistened the cloth in tepid water4 ,this operation is not subsequently repeated4 ,this vat is prepared with #ac lbs4 of indigo1 #ag lbs4 of madder1 #d lbs4 of bran1 #i lbs4 of lime1 and #d lbs4 of potash4 ,having filled the vat1 we heat it to about #bjj ,fah41 and1 as soon as the water is tepid1 introduce #dda lbs4 of pastel4 ,the liquor becomes of a yellowish-brown color2 small bubbles appear upon its surface1 ordinarily at the end of four hours if the vat be heated by steam1 but not until after eight or twelve hours where heat is applied by the common fire2 in the latter case the mixture should be stirred every three hours4 ,when the liquor displays the signs of fermentation1 we add the above-mentioned ingredients1 and cover the vat over2 it is then to be set aside1 stirring it every three hours1 or oftener if the fermentative action be very rapid4 ,each time that it is stirred we are to add from #b to #d lbs4 of lime2 if fermentation proceed quickly we even use more1 but in the contrary case less4 ,after about eighteen hours1 we plunge into the vat three pieces of common cloth1 measuring from twenty to twenty-five ells in length each2 when they have received six or seven turns1 they are to be taken out again4 ,the object of this is to remove the excess of lime from the bath4 ,the vat is then set aside for three hours1 when it is to be stirred1 and #ac lbs4 of indigo1 with #b lbs4 of madder1 added to it4 ,we now again apply heat to the mixture4 ,if the vat contains a superabundance of lime1 it will be unnecessary to add more2 otherwise we throw in a further quantity4 ,during the night it should be covered with a cloth1 and a workman left to watch it4 ,it is usually stirred once before the morning2 but if it be deficient in lime1 it will require this manipulation to be more frequently repeated1 and also fresh lime added to it4 ,on the following day the stirring should be continued every three hours1 and so on for the next thirty hours1 taking care to heat the vat from time to time4 ,on the morning of the fourth day the dyeing may be commenced4 ,the temperature should be maintained at a pretty uniform point2 if it be too hot1 the blue takes a red reflection1 by reason of the madder contained in the liquid4 ,a vat thus prepared will last three months2 we may even work it for double that period1 but after the third month it appears to lose some of its indigo4 ,we maintain the power of the vat by introducing every night #b lbs4 of madder4 ,some indigo is also added twice or three times a week4 ,these additions are made in the evening4 ,after the former1 the vat is left at rest for forty-two hours2 with the latter only for twenty-four1 at the same time observing the precautions already indicated4 ,at the end of three months1 or sooner when we wish to stop the working of the vat1 we exhaust the indigo2 for this purpose we continue to charge it every night for the space of a month with madder1 and dip into it white cloths1 or more particularly woollen tissues1 which become more or less loaded with the indigo4 ,we must continue this plan until these matters take up no further color4 ,the dippings are to be performed twice a day at first1 but once only towards the termination4 ,many dyers make use of this bath for preparing a new vat1 but it is better to throw this away and make it up afresh with common water4 ,indian ,vat4--,these vats are of more simple and of more ready construction than the pastel or woad vats4 ,we are to boil in water a quantity of madder and of bran1 proportioned to the weight of indigo which we wish to employ4 ,after two hours' ebullition1 we turn into this bath some tartar-lees1 which are also to be boiled for an hour and a half or two hours1 so as to charge the bath with whatever soluble matter they may contain2 after this ebullition the bath should be allowed to cool1 and the indigo1 which has been previously ground1 is then to be introduced4 ,supposing that we wish to employ #ba lbs4 of indigo1 the following would be the proportions used in preparing this vat3 #da lbs4 tartar-lees1 #ac lbs4 of madder1 and #e lbs4 of bran4 ,these vats are usually mounted in coppers of a conical shape2 a small fire should be kept up around them1 so as to maintain a moderate and uniform heat4 ,the indigo will usually be found dissolved at the end of twenty-four hours1 often even after twelve or fifteen hours4 ,the liquor has a reddish color in the new vats1 and a green tint in those which are in a working state4 ,the frothy surface1 as well as the brilliant-colored pellicle1 becomes manifested in this as in all other preparations of a like kind4 ,this species of vat has to be renewed much more frequently than the woad and pastel vats1 from the indigo being more difficult to dissolve after a certain lapse of time4 ,a moderate heat should be maintained in all these vats4 ,potash ,vat4--,this species of vat is extensively employed at ,elbuf for the dyeing of wool in the flock4 ,it presents in all respects a perfect analogy with the ,indian vat2 in fact1 the action of the tartar-lee in the latter preparation depends entirely on the carbonate of potash which it contains4 ,the ingredients used in the preparation of the potash vat are bran1 madder1 and the subcarbonate of potash of commerce4 ,we obtain the deep shades in this species of vat with greater celerity than in all others1 a fact which undoubtedly depends on the greater power which potash has of dissolving indigo than is possessed by lime4 ,experience proves that the potash vat has the advantage in point of celerity of nearly a third2 but this is balanced by the inconvenience resulting from the darker shade1 which we must attribute to the large quantity of coloring matter of the madder dissolved by the alkaline lee1 and which becomes fixed on the stuff with the indigo4 ,to render this vat in its most favorable state1 the indigo should be made to undergo a commencement of hydrogenation before turning it into the mixture2 for this purpose we prepare in a small copper a bath analogous to that in the vat1 to which the pounded indigo is added4 ,this bath is maintained for twenty-four hours at a moderate heat1 taking care to stir it from time to time4 ,the indigo assumes a yellowish color1 becomes dissolved1 and in this state is turned into the vat2 we thus avoid many delays and losses in its preparation1 and indeed it would be desirable if a similar plan were adopted with all these compounds4 ,german ,vat4--,this vat is of nearly similar dimensions to that used for the woad1 being three times the size of the potash vat4 ,its diameter is about #f feet1 and its depth #h feet4 ,having filled the copper with water1 we are to heat it to #bjj ,fah42 we then add #bj pailsful of bran1 #bb lbs4 of carbonate of soda1 #aa lbs4 of indigo1 and #ed pounds of lime1 thoroughly slaked1 in powder4 ,the mixture is to be well stirred1 and then set aside for two hours2 the workman should continually watch the progress of the fermentation1 moderating it more or less by means of lime or carbonate of soda1 so as to render the vat in a working state at the end of twelve1 fifteen1 or1 at the most1 eighteen hours4 ,the odor is the only criterion by which the workman is enabled to judge of the good state of the vat1 he must therefore possess considerable tact and experience4 ,in the process of dipping we introduce #hd lbs41 #ajf lbs41 or even #acj lbs4 of wool1 in a net bag1 similar to that used in the woad vat1 taking care that the bag is not allowed to rest against the sides of the copper4 ,when the wool has sufficiently imbibed the color1 we remove the bag containing it1 and allow it to drain for a short time over the vessel4 ,we operate in this way on two or three quantities in succession2 we then remove the vat1 and set it aside for two hours2 we must be careful1 from time to time1 to replace the indigo absorbed by the wool1 as also to add fresh quantities of bran1 lime1 and crystallized carbonate of soda1 so as constantly to maintain the fermentation at a suitable point4 ,the ,german vat differs1 then1 from the potash vat by the fact that the potash is replaced by crystallized carbonate of soda and caustic lime1 which latter substance also gives to the carbonate of soda a caustic character4 ,it presents a remarkable saving as compared to the potash vat2 hence the frequency of its employment2 but it requires great care1 and is more difficult to manage4 ,it also offers considerable economy of labor2 one man is amply sufficient for each vat4 ,the army cloth is usually dyed by means of the pastel vat1 which gives the most advantageous results4 ,we here make use of vats about #h feet in depth1 and #e feet in diameter1 into which we introduce from #cfa lbs4 to #dje lbs of pastel or of woad1 after previous maceration4 ,the vat is to be filled with boiling water1 and we then add to the bath #bb lbs4 of madder1 #ag lbs4 of weld1 and #ac lbs4 of bran4 ,the mixture is to maintained in a state of ebullition for about half an hour2 we next add a few pailsful of cold water1 taking care1 however1 not to lower the temperature beyond #acj ,fah42 during the whole of this time a workman1 provided with a rake1 keeps incessantly stirring the materials of the bath4 ,the vat is then accurately closed by means of a wooden lid1 and surrounded by blankets1 so as to keep up the heat4 ,it is now put aside for six hours2 after this time it is again stirred by means of a rake1 for the space of half an hour2 and this operation should be repeated every three hours until the surface of the bath becomes marked with blue veins2 we then add from six to eight pounds of slaked lime4 ,the color of the vat now borders on a blackish-blue4 ,we immediately add the indigo in a quantity proportioned to the shade which we wish to obtain4 ,the pastel in the foregoing mixture may last for several months2 but we must renew the indigo in proportion as it becomes exhausted1 at the same time adding both bran and madder4 ,in general we employ-- #aa to #ac lbs4 of good indigo for #ajj lbs4 of fine wool4 #i to #aa lbs4 of good indigo for #ajj lbs4 of common wool4 #i to #aa lbs4 of good indigo for #aca yards of cloth dyed in the piece4 ,management of the ,vats4--,a good condition of the vat is recognized by the following characters3 ,the tint of the bath is of a fine golden-yellow1 and its surface is covered with a bluish froth and a copper-colored pellicle4 ,on dipping the rake into the bath1 there escapes bubbles of air1 which should burst very slowly2 when they vanish quickly1 it becomes an indication that we must add more lime4 ,the paste which is found at the bottom of the vat1 green at the moment of its being drawn up1 should become brown in 4the air2 if1 however1 it remains green1 this is a further sign that more lime is required4 ,lastly1 the vat should exhale the odor of indigo4 ,we usually complete the assurance of the vat being in a good state by plunging into it1 after two hours' respite1 a skein of wool1 which1 on being withdrawn after the lapse of half an hour1 should present a green color1 but change directly to blue4 ,we then once more mix the materials of the vat1 and two hours after it may be considered ready for dyeing4 ,these vats1 like those already described1 are provided with a large wooden ring1 the interior of which is armed with a kind of network1 for the purpose of preventing the objects which are intended to be dyed coming in contact with the materials at the bottom of the vat2 we1 moreover1 take the precaution of enclosing the wool or cloth in bags4 ,these tissues1 when plunged into the bath1 should remain there for a longer or shorter time1 according to the shade which we wish to obtain2 one dipping1 however1 will never suffice for this object2 usually we leave in the stuff for half an hour only2 it is then to be taken from the bath1 wrung1 and exposed to the air4 ,this operation is repeated until we have succeeded in procuring the desired shade2 we ordinarily suffer three hours to elapse between each dipping4 ,the heat of the vat should never be allowed to fall below #acj ,fah4 ,after each operation the bath must be well stirred1 and fresh lime added2 generally speaking1 a pound a day will suffice4 ,we re-establish the indigo about every second day4 ,when once this vat is well mounted1 and we are careful to examine its working1 we may dye from two to four batches a day with it4 ,when the stuffs have acquired the desired shade1 they are first to be washed in common water1 and then in a very weak solution of hydrochloric acid 7about one part in a thousand72 after this they are again rinsed in pure water4 ,the ,indian vat is much more easily managed than the foregoing2 it presents less danger of failure1 from the fact that it is quickly exhausted1 and also from the fermentative process1 which is so difficult to govern in the pastel vat2 this vat not having time to change in character4 ,it is prepared by first introducing an equal quantity of madder and of bran1 and a triple quantity of potash2 this is to be gradually heated until it reaches a temperature of #afg ,fah41 and we then add to it the indigo1 thoroughly agitating the matters for half an hour4 ,the vat is maintained at a temperature of #hf to #ajj ,fah41 by keeping it closely covered1 and at the same time the mixture is to be stirred occasionally at intervals of twelve hours4 ,it should by this time present a beautiful green shade1 the liquor being surmounted by a copper-colored pellicle and a purplish froth4 ,we may now commence the dyeing1 following the same course as with the pastel vat2 but the stirrings being here repeated much more frequently than with the other mixture1 we can dye a larger quantity of wool within a given time4 ,when the vat ceases to give a brilliant blue1 we must altogether renew it2 if it be merely weakened1 we add to it a small quantity of freshly prepared liquor containing a few pounds of potash1 and a little less bran and madder4 ,in giving the dark and the clear sky blues1 we must be careful to employ a quantity of indigo proportioned to the color which we wish to obtain1 or1 better still1 we may use the previously exhausted vat for the dark blue4 ,when exposed to the influence of the putrid fermentation1 indigo is decomposed and loses its color4 ,if rendered soluble1 it obeys the impulse communicated to the azotized matters with which it is brought into contact1 although1 if macerated in pure water at the ordinary temperature1 it is itself decomposed with great difficulty4 ,the pastel and the woad are very prone to the putrid fermentation1 by reason of the large quantity of azotized matters which they contain1 as do all the crucifer2 they require therefore considerable care in their employment4 ,when a vat is mounted1 if the fermentation be allowed to continue unchecked1 after the appearance of the blue froth and the other signs already indicated1 the liquor will acquire a yellow color similar to that of beer2 the froth will become white2 it will give out a stale smell and lose its ammoniacal odor2 after a few days it will turn whitish1 and exhale a smell at first similar to that of putrefied animal substances2 then it will acquire the odor of rotten eggs1 and set free sulphuretted hydrogen4 ,the lime in the pastel and the woad vats1 and the tartar-lee and potash in the other mixtures1 are used for the purpose of preventing these accidents4 ,besides the oxygenated compound1 which is formed by the combination of oxygen with the extractive matters of the plants held in digestion1 there is a production of carbonic acid which saturates the alkaline lee1 and forms a carbonate of lime in the pastel vat4 ,we find this attached to the sides of the vat in such quantity that the inside of these vessels becomes incrusted with it to a considerable depth4 ,it is this product which dyers call the tartar of the vat2 it effervesces with acids1 and gives on analysis carbonic acid1 lime1 and a few particles of indigo4 ,in the potash vat the solubility of the carbonate of potash prevents its deposition2 but it is very probable that we have even here a formation of some carbonated products1 perhaps in part formed at the expense of the carbonic acid of the air4 ,the soluble extractive principle being the only matter which remains in solution in the bath with the indigo1 the lime1 c41 we have formed deposits which1 varying both in their volume and in the greater or less facility with which they are precipitated during the various periods of fermentation1 lead to a more or less considerable waste of time4 ,if we plunge a piece of woollen tissue into a vat which has been recently stirred1 it will acquire a dark color1 and will be found covered with brown stains which are with difficulty removed4 ,when the woad or paste vat has been stirred1 it need be left two or three hours only before plunging in the stuff1 at least during the early months of its working1 inasmuch as the pastel1 being but slightly divided and attenuated1 is readily precipitated2 but when1 by reason of its extreme division1 in consequence of repeated operations1 it is thrown down with less facility1 the dipping should not be performed oftener than three times in the day4 ,the ,indian vat requires less time than the others2 we may even dye with it an hour after stirring the mixture4 ,the potash1 being soluble1 forms no precipitate2 while the ligneous fibre of the madder and the pellicles of the bran become deposited with great facility4 ,we can also dip with these vats much oftener than with those made by pastel or woad4 ,,sickness ,,of ,,the ,,warm ,,vat ,,for ,,dyeing ,,wool1 ,,and ,,its ,,remedies4 ,we have to thank that excellent practical magazine1 8,the ,american ,chemist10 for the following notes on the sicknesses of the warm vat1 by ,f4 ,w4 ,kugler1 translated from ,reimann's ,frberzeintung3-- ,in the wool indigo vat1 among the principal 8sicknesses0 is the blackening of the vat1 or 8sharpening40 ,this arises from the presence of too much lime4 ,when 8sharpened10 the liquor1 instead of having a waxy yellow color with a dense blue film on its surface1 has no film2 while the liquor is a dark blackish-green1 and on being stirred shows a gray or white scum on its surface1 while it emits at the same time a pungent odor4 ,if the vat is only slightly affected1 it is sufficient to add some bran and madder and to let it stand over night4 ,if it has not quite recovered by morning1 it may be necessary to heat it up1 agitate it1 and let it stand for a couple of hours1 after which perhaps the addition of a little lime will be necessary4 ,if the vat is much sharpened1 it is recommended to sink in it a bag of bran1 and leave it over night1 when the fermentation will have restored the vat in a considerable degree2 but it will be necessary to add lime cautiously and by degrees1 to bring it to a proper state for working4 ,the theory of the souring of the vat is given4 ,butyric fermentation takes place under certain circumstances1 butyric acid being formed2 and hydrogen is set free1 which reduces the indigo4 ,the addition of lime makes the vat too strongly alkaline1 and sets ammonia free1 which gives the pungent odor of the soured 7verschften7 vat4 ,simultaneously the lime with the white indigo forms a difficultly soluble compound1 which settles1 and thus interferes with the working of the vat4 ,the excess of lime must be removed1 which is accomplished by introducing bran1 which causes a lactic fermentation2 and the lactic acid neutralizes the excess of lime1 and destroys the lime compound with indigo which had been formed4 ,the lime may be neutralized by the use of mineral acids1 but there is danger in that case of precipitating the indigo4 ,a second 8sickness0 is 8becoming too sweet40 ,the symptoms are1--the blue veins and surface film disappear on stirring1 the foam gives a rustling sound1 the bath assumes a reddish-yellow color1 blue goods placed in the bath lose their color1 and the vat has an unpleasant odor4 ,the vat when 8too sweet0 needs to be brought to the regular temperature1 and lime to be added cautiously until the vat is brought to its normal state4 ,it is safer to add an excess of lime and 8sour0 the vat1 and then bring it back according to the directions under that head1 than to add too little1 as less indigo is lost4 ,to use up all the dye and to dye a light blue1 as little lime should be present as is consistent with the workings of the vat4 ,the cause of the 8falling away0 of the vat is a too active fermentation1 which produces considerable lactic acid1 from which butyric acid forms1 setting free hydrogen1 thereby making white indigo1 which1 if the action is allowed to continue1 changes to a compound from which the indigo cannot be recovered4 ,if lime is added1 the lactic and butyric acids unite with it and precipitate it1 while the excess precipitates the white indigo1 which is slowly recovered1 as fermentation progresses1 which forms lactic acid1 which1 taking the place of the white indigo1 sets it free4 ,besides the sicknesses1 there are various results of mismanagement1 of which the first is overwarming1 which causes the bath to turn brown1 which is the beginning of the souring4 ,when the bath begins to sour from overheating1 some logwood should be added and then bran1 and the vat left to itself over night4 ,the reason of it is that the temperature is too high for the desired fermentation to operate4 ,the vat sometimes suddenly turns green1 and even when indigo and the other necessary ingredients are added it remains of this color4 ,this is called the 8breaking up of the vat40 ,the reason is that the temperature is too low2 to remedy it1 it is necessary to add logwood and bran1 warm it up1 and stir1 when it should stand for some