,,food ,,and ,,flavor ,,food ,,and ,,flavor ,a ,,gastronomic ,,guide ,,to ,,health ,,and ,,good ,,living ,,by ,,henry ,t4 ,,finck ,the destiny of nations depends upon what and how they eat4 ,brillat-,savarin4 ,illustration3 ,illustrated by ,charles ,s4 ,chapman ,,new ,,york--,,the ,,century ,,co4 #aiac ,copyright1 #aiac1 by ,,the ,,century ,,co4 ,published1 ,april1 #aiac ,,to ,,luther ,,burbank ,,and ,,harvey ,w4 ,,wiley ,,the ,,two ,,men ,,who ,,have ,,done ,,most ,,to ,,make ,,our ,,daily ,,food ,,palatable ,,and ,,honest ,,contents ,,page ,i ,,ungastronomic ,,america #c ,mark ,twain's ,patriotic ,palate--,food ,missionaries in the ,far ,west--,are ,women to ,blame8--,the ,danger in our ,food--,why the ,candy was not ,eaten--,dr4 ,wiley's ,poison ,squad--,condiments versus ,chemical ,preservatives--,scotched1 not ,killed4 ,,ii ,,vital ,,importance ,,of ,,flavor #dj ,sensual indulgence as a duty--,gladstone and ,fletcher--,the harm done by soft ,foods--,epicurean delights from plain ,food--,how flavor helps the ,stomach--,an ,amazing ,blunder--,a new ,psychology of ,eating4 ,,iii ,,our ,,denatured ,,foods #fe ,foul ,fowl--,the ,french way versus the ,american--,why do we ,eat ,poultry8--,is cold storage a ,blessing8--,spoiling the ,american ,oyster--,smoked ham1 bacon and fish--,flavor in ,butter--,sweet ,butter versus ,salt4 ,,iv ,,the ,,science ,,of ,,savory ,,cooking #aag ,desirable raw foods--,flavor as the guiding principle--,the ,philosophy of soup-making and eating--,wherein lies the value of vegetables8--,broiling1 roasting1 baking1 frying--,combining the flavors of meats and vegetables--,savory food for everybody--,meat-eating of the future--,the folly of vegetarianism--,when to use condiments and sauces--,cook books4 ,v ,a ,,noble ,,art #aeb ,the social caste of cooks--,royalty in the kitchen--,rossini1 ,carme and ,paderewski--,looking down on others--,does cooking ,pay8 ,,vi ,,the ,,future ,,of ,,cooking #aga ,school girls like it--,boys and soldiers as cooks--,traveling cooking schools--,english school dinners--,progress in ,america--,teaching the art of eating--,real epicurism is economical--,fireless cookers--,private versus community kitchens--,scientific electric cooking--,importance of variety in foods4 ,,vii ,,french ,,supremacy #baj ,kitchen alchemy--,seven hundred soups--,savory sauces--,profitable poules de ,brese--,digestive value of sour salads--,escarole1 tomatoes1 artichokes1 alligator pears--,vegetables as a separate course--,paris restaurants--,russian and ,american influences--,provincial local flavors--,the world's greatest market places--,model market gardens--,mushrooms and truffles--,training trees for fancy fruits--,bread crust versus crumb--,how the best butter is made--,cheese as an appetizer4 ,,viii ,,epicurean ,,italy #cji ,the cradle of modern cookery--,olive oil and ,sardines--,fried fish and fritto misto--,macaroni1 the real staff of life--,cooked cheese in place of meat--,birds1 tomato paste and garlic4 ,,ix ,,german ,,and ,,austrian ,,delicacies #cci ,a cosmopolitan cuisine--,delicatessen stores--,sausages and smoked ham--,live fish brought to the kitchen--,game and ,geese--,in a ,berlin market--,vienna bread and ,hungarian flour--,german menus on sea and land--,german1 ,swiss and ,dutch cheeses4 ,x ,,british ,,specialties #cid ,thackeray's little sermon--,dr4 ,johnson and ,samuel ,pepys--,the ,roast beef of old ,england--,southdown mutton--,wiltshire bacon--,fair play for pigs--,grouse and grilled sole--,covent ,garden market scenes--,marmalades1 jams and breakfasts--,restaurants1 cakes1 and plum pudding4 ,,xi ,,gastronomic ,,america #deb ,sweet corn and corn bread--,griddle cakes and maple syrup--,apple pie and cranberries--,turkeys1 guinea fowl and game--,lobsters1 scallops1 crabs1 and fishes--,vegetables steadily gaining ground--,the fruit-eaters' paradise ,governmental gastronomy--,burbank's new fruits and vegetables4 ,,xii ,,commercial ,,value ,,of ,,flavor #ebb ,palatability decides permanence--,eating with the eyes--,school girls as pure food experts--,pennywise dealers and pineapples--,successful peach-growers--,fortunes from bananas and oranges--,melons1 honey and flavoring extracts--,opportunities for women--,feeding flavor into food--,farmers1 middlemen1 and parcel post4 ,,xiii ,,gastronomic ,,value ,,of ,,odors #eei ,sweet1 sour1 salt and bitter--,a comedy of errors--,how flavor differs from fragrance--,important functions of the nose--,educating the sense of smell--,coffee1 tea and temperance4 ,,index #ehc ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,,page ,fred ,harvey #f ,a ,matter for the ,health ,department #bj ,harvey ,w4 ,wiley #bf ,the ,old-fashioned ,way #bi ,horace ,fletcher #df ,a ,french ,chef's ,culinary ,alchemy #ed ,an ,american ,quick-,lunch #eg ,how they do it in ,france #ge ,where ,smoked ,hams were ,suspended from the ,rafters #ih ,before ,breakfast in the ,garden #aai ,chafing ,dish ,cooking #adi ,a fifteenth-century ,kitchen in ,france #afb ,cooking ,class at the ,wadleigh ,high ,school #agb ,fireless ,cooking in ,hawaii #aic ,the ,tour d',argent and ,frederic ,delair #bag ,carme #bah ,boeuf la ,mode #bdf ,coming to ,market1 ,brittany #bfc ,the ,world's ,greatest ,market ,place #bfh ,paris ,market ,porters #bga ,halles ,centrales #bgc ,a bit of the great ,paris market #bgf ,macaroni ,drying #cbb ,deer in ,german ,forest #cfi ,menus on a ,german ,steamer #chb-chd ,the ,boar #dbj ,ye ,olde ,cheshire ,cheese #ddf ,london ,bill of ,fare #ddh-ddi ,the ,sugar ,bush #dfe ,brillat-,savarin #dgd ,new ,york down town ,lunch ,menu #dhd-dhe ,luther ,burbank #eaj ,burbank's ,spineless ,cactus #eah ,chinese ,canal #eef ,javanese ,tea-,picker and ,porter #egh ,,preface3 ,a ,,book ,,for ,,everybody ,it is not often that an author is so fortunate as to have a subject which is of vital importance to everybody1 without exception4 ,everybody eats1 and everybody wants to enjoy his meals2 yet few know how to get the most benefit and pleasure out of them4 ,the ,french are far ahead of us in this respect2 they are a nation of gastronomers1 understanding fully the importance to health and happiness of raising only the best foodstuffs1 cooking them in savory ways and eating them with intelligence and pleasure4 ,one of the main objects of the present volume is to show that we have the material for the making of an even more gastronomic nation than the ,french are1 and that ,americans1 especially if caught young1 can be taught to eat in a leisurely way and to refuse to accept anything that lacks appetizing flavor4 ,flavor6 ,in that word lies the key to the whole food problem4 ,undoubtedly the nourishing property of food is also of importance2 without it we could not live4 ,yet1 as ,luther ,burbank has keenly remarked1 if we eliminate palatability 7that is1 flavor7 from food1 it is no more than a medicine1 to be taken because it produces certain necessary results4 ,moreover1 a little of this medicine goes a great way4 ,horace ,fletcher lived for years on eleven cents a day2 and two university professors--,dr4 ,j4 ,l4 ,henderson of ,harvard and ,dr4 ,graham ,lusk of ,cornell--have demonstrated1 independently1 that a dime a day1 intelligently expended1 is enough to keep body and soul together4 ,what more we spend on food--and we probably average five times that amount--goes chiefly for flavor4 ,it is the flavor that makes us willing to pay more for good butter than for good oleomargarine1 for fresh chicken than for cold storage fowl1 for ,virginia ham than for ordinary ham1 and so on throughout the list of foods2 for there is no difference in nutritive value in any of these cases4 ,this being so1 it seems passing strange that while so many good books have been written on the nutritive aspects of foods1 mine is the first volume in any language treating specially of this same flavor1 on which we spend so much of our income1 and which is so important to our health4 ,the explanation lies in the fact that flavor is generally looked upon as something merely agreeable--like the fragrance of strawberries1 or the vanilla extract we put into ice cream--but of no vital importance4 ,it was this misunderstanding that prevented me from keeping the title ,flavor in ,food which ,i had intended to use4 ,at a conference with the publishers we decided that 7since1 after all1 the book also discusses many other aspects of the food question71 it would be wiser to use the title ,food and ,flavor4 ,nevertheless1 ,flavor 7with a big ,f to emphasize its importance7 is the principal theme1 and the most important chapters are the second and the last in which ,i discuss its superlative value1 not only as the source of countless wholesome pleasures of the table1 but as a guide to health4 ,the gist of the book lies in the sections ,an ,amazing ,blunder and ,a ,new ,psychology of ,eating1 in which ,i have shown that we need flavor as much as we need food if we wish to be well2 for food without flavor is not appetizing2 and when food is not appetizing it lies in the stomach like lead and causes dyspepsia1 the national ,american plague4 ,the final chapter considers the important difference between appetizing flavor and mere fragrance1 the neglect of which has created no end of confusion and done so much harm4 ,in the pages concerned with ,ungastronomic ,america and ,our ,denatured ,foods1 ,i have dwelt on some of the evils which have resulted from the giving up of the old-fashioned condiments 7especially woodsmoke7 in favor of the much cheaper chemical preservatives which denature our food1 that is1 destroy its appetizing flavor1 and give rise to countless adulterations and deceptions4 ,it was not with any muck-raking intentions that these pages were written1 but merely to increase the present wholesome discontent and pave the way for better things by making it clear to all what those better things are1 and indicating ways of thwarting the unscrupulous adulterators and dealers4 ,there is need of a good deal of hard fighting1 for there are in many towns health officers who thrive on graft as well as wealthy manufacturers of undesirable preservatives who prevent the passage or enforcement of pure food laws2 yet ,i believe the time is not very far distant when these two chapters will have little more than a historic interest4 ,pending that time1 caveat emptor--let the buyer beware4 ,the rest of the book is mainly constructive1 and under the head of ,gastronomic ,america ,i have tried to paint a glowing picture not only of present pleasures of the palate but of keener ones to come1 thanks to ,luther ,burbank and other educators of fruits and vegetables4 ,among these educators are the specialists of the ,department of ,agriculture4 ,the ,government of the ,united ,states has done more than that of any other country to give useful advice to the growers of food products--and to cooks1 too6 ,throughout this volume ,i have missed no chance to call attention to its many helpful publications1 besides summing up the matter under the head of ,governmental ,gastronomy4 ,it is a topic of tremendous importance to farmers1 vegetable gardeners1 dairymen1 and all who are concerned with the growing or distributing of food stuffs4 ,farming is defined as cultivating the ground in order to raise food2 and why farmers1 quite as much as epicures1 should be interested in the best foods1 ,i have explained in the section headed ,commercial ,value of ,flavor1 with illustrations showing how a tiller of the soil can double or quintuple his income or even make a big fortune by taking the demand for appetizing flavor as a guide4 ,knowing that they do many of these things much better in ,europe1 ,i made a special gastronomic trip in #aiab to gather first hand information in the market places1 gardens and restaurants of ,france1 ,italy1 ,germany and ,england4 ,i have dwelt on the good things raised and prepared in those countries1 such as the salads1 the poultry1 the bread1 the butter1 the cheeses1 the wonderful cuisine of ,france2 the olive oil1 the economical substitutes for meat1 and the macaroni 7the real staff of life7 of ,italy2 the diverse delicatessen of ,germany 7including live fish brought to the kitchen and genuinely smoked meats and fish72 the ,wiltshire bacon1 the ,southdown mutton1 the cakes and marmalades of ,great ,britain4 ,information on many things like those1 concerning which there is a widespread curiosity1 has not before been brought conveniently between two covers1 and ,i am sure ,i need not apologize for having followed the example of the gossiping ,brillat-,savarin1 in presenting this information largely in the form of a narrative of personal experiences1 and with pertinent anecdotes4 ,to the chapters on the ,science of ,savory ,cooking and ,a ,noble ,art ,i wish to call special attention because in them lies1 ,i am convinced1 the ultimate solution of the urgent problem of domestic help1 as well as the problem of improving the average ,american cuisine1 which is a still larger one1 because in eleven out of every twelve families the women have to do their own cooking4 ,too many women1 not to speak of men1 do not know that cooking really is a science1 7which electricity will soon make an exact science71 and the practice of it a fine art1 experts in which may well look down proudly on the mere factory and shop girls who foolishly think they are above them4 ,schools1 women's societies1 and society women have taken up the matter in ,england as well as in ,america1 and great changes are impending--changes which1 it is hoped1 this volume1 coming at the psychological moment1 will help to accelerate4 ,illustration,drawing of a busy scene in a restaurant ,,food ,,and ,,flavor ,i ,,ungastronomic ,,america ,,mark ,,twain',s ,,patriotic ,,palate ,mark ,twain swore by ,american food as he did by the ,american flag4 ,when he got as far as ,italy1 on the trip which resulted in ,a ,tramp ,abroad1 he became discouraged1 wrote a homesick panegyric on the good things he could not get in ,europe1 and made a list of viands to be ordered by the steamer preceding his1 to await him on his return4 ,among these dishes were fried chicken ,southern style1 ,saratoga potatoes1 baked apples and cream1 hot biscuits1 buckwheat cakes with maple syrup1 toast1 oysters in various styles1 softshell crabs1 terrapin soup1 wild turkey1 cranberry sauce1 canvasback duck1 prairie hens1 bacon and greens1 catsup1 green corn1 hot corn-pone1 stewed tomatoes and pumpkin pie4 ,as he lived for years thereafter1 it is not likely that he carried out his program4 ,these gastronomic specialties certainly are not to be sneered at2 ,european epicures envy us most of them4 ,it must be admitted1 also1 that ,american cookery has made considerable progress in the last decades1 and that there has been an improvement in eating habits since ,dickens1 in ,martin ,chuzzlewit 7#ahdc71 described the violent bell ringing2 the mad rush for the dining-room2 the great heaps of indigestible matter which melted away as ice before the sun2 the dyspeptic individuals who bolted their food in wedges1 feeding not themselves1 but broods of nightmares4 ,such scenes still occur1 but they are no longer typical4 ,nor1 perhaps1 would ,emily ,faithful have occasion to-day1 as she had in #ahhd1 to comment on the joyless ,american face1 due to chronic dyspepsia4 ,we are still made unhappy1 however1 by the indigestible hot bread and tough beefsteaks hardly warmed through to which she referred1 and by other gastronomic atrocities4 ,we must not overlook the fine cooking done in many ,american private families1 hotels1 clubs1 and restaurants1 and we have some good old ,maryland1 ,virginia1 ,new ,england1 and ,san ,franciscan traditions to boast of4 ,moreover1 there are not a few who have reason to think that the culinary low-water mark is to be found on ,english steamships and in ,english inns4 ,on the whole1 however1 what ,pierre ,blot wrote forty years ago is still true3 ,american cookery is worse than that of any other civilized nation4 ,our great national food expert and reformer1 ,dr4 ,harvey ,w4 ,wiley1 put the matter in a nutshell when he said in a lecture before the ,general ,federation of ,women's ,clubs1 that there is no country in the world where food is so plentiful1 and no country in the world where it is so badly cooked1 as right here in the ,united ,states4 ,,food ,,missionaries ,,in ,,the ,,far ,,west4 ,one need not go to ,france or ,austria for a humiliating contrast4 ,in one of his books of travel ,charles ,dudley ,warner declared that after leaving ,philadelphia the tourist will not find one good meal decently served until he reaches ,mexico4 ,in a southwestern railway restaurant a miner once said to me he had not eaten such an abominable meal in all the years he had spent in the wilderness4 ,to tell the unvarnished truth1 he used a stronger word than abominable4 ,one of the details ,i remember was that the tough steak had apparently been fried in the drippings from a tallow candle4 ,in the same part of the country a great change has been brought about by the culinary and executive genius of one man--,fred ,harvey4 ,he came to this country from ,england--score one for ,england6--when he was a boy of fourteen1 with two pounds in his pocket4 ,he got a job on a railway4 ,there were no dining cars in those days and although in ,england he had not lived the life of a gourmet he was amazed by the wretchedness of the eating houses with their canned meats and vegetables1 rancid bacon1 oilclothed tables without napkins and incompetent service4 ,convinced that good eating-houses would advertise the railway and attract travel1 he ventured to say so to the manager of the ,santa ,f ,railway1 who1 fortunately1 not only approved the suggestion but gave him the opportunity to show what he could do4 ,one historian relates that the manager threw his arms around the youthful promoter and wept with joy4 ,he had just dined at a railway station6 ,it was in the year #ahgf that ,harvey opened his first eating-house in ,topeka4 ,it made a sensation4 ,others soon were built along the line of the road from the ,middle ,west to the ,pacific ,coast until1 in #aiab1 there were a dozen large hotels1 sixty-five railway restaurants and sixty dining-cars under the same management4 ,illustration3 ,,fred ,,harvey ,that ,harvey was a born epicure is evident from the fact that when he opened the ,montezuma ,hotel in #ahhb1 he would not allow1 as the ,kansas ,city ,star tells us1 any canned goods to go on the table4 ,he sent a man to ,guaymas and ,hermosillo in ,old ,mexico to get fruit1 green vegetables1 shell fish and other kinds of food4 ,a contract was made with the chief of a tribe of ,yaqui ,indians to supply the hostelry with green turtles and sea celery4 ,these turtles1 which were secured for #a4ej each1 weighed two hundred pounds and were full of eggs4 ,mr4 ,harvey selected a little pool near the hotel where he fattened the turtles4 ,a feature of the bill of fare every day was genuine green turtle soup and turtle steak4 ,the sea celery used is a spicy weed which makes a fine salad4 ,naturally1 such delicacies could not be served at the ordinary railway restaurants2 yet these1 too1 had their pleasant surprises1 and were unspeakably superior to what the travelers had been obliged to put up with in pre-,harvey days4 ,on ordering tea1 for example1 you would get a separate little ,japanese pot with the steaming infusion freshly made for you4 ,this was as far as ,harvey could go in these places in carrying out the perfect host's maxim that every diner should feel as if the meal he eats had been specially prepared for him4 ,but there were other details that betrayed special intelligence and thought4 ,thus1 in stopping one day for supper in one of the ,harvey restaurants in the sizzling ,arizona desert1 ,i was delighted to find the table loaded down with the sour things that one craves on hot days--diverse vegetable and meat salads4 ,one of the amusing details in connection with the ,harvey organization was that it became known as a marriage agency1 because the neat and well-trained waitresses got married one after another1 some of them to wealthy ranchmen4 ,of greater importance was the fact that the ,harvey eating-houses served as schools to all the ,southwest1 bringing about a general reform4 ,the rival railway systems1 naturally1 could not persevere in their barbarian ways4 ,fred ,harvey is no more1 but his influence survives and his name is one to conjure with throughout the ,pacific slope4 ,in the ,east1 also1 one comes across a good meal now and then in a dining-car or a railroad station4 ,there is one1 says ,edward ,hungerford1 up in the northern part of ,new ,york ,state that has never yielded its supremacy to any circuit-riding caf on wheels4 ,when a certain high officer of the busy road that spreads itself apart at that junction goes up there1 he orders the cook of his private car to shut up the kitchen4 ,do you suppose that ,i would pass by that town1 he says1 and the best square meal in the whole ,state8 ,those things1 alas1 are exceptional4 ,taken the country through1 railway restaurants and diners are to this day even worse than the average hotels and boarding houses4 ,flavorless1 unappetizing meats1 insipid vegetables1 doughy pies and soggy cakes are the rule at our eating places everywhere4 ,the most astonishing thing about this is that the average ,american enjoys a good meal1 if he can get it1 not a bit less than the average ,european1 as ,i have observed hundreds of times in our own best eating houses and in foreign hotels and restaurants during ten trips to ,europe4 ,and that the capacity to enjoy a civilized meal is inherent not only in those who can cross the ocean and pay for ,parisian dainties1 but in the humblest tiller of the soil or railway employee1 was amusingly made manifest to me many years ago in the wild and woolly ,west4 ,i was brought up in the village of ,aurora1 ,oregon1 which was inhabited chiefly by members of a ,german colony1 who differed in no-wise from millions of poor but honest men and women in the ,fatherland4 ,one of the most precious things they had brought from the old country was the skill to cook a savory meal--a meal that one could enjoy to the full without feeling the pangs of dyspeptic remorse for hours afterwards4 ,the ,aurora hotel soon became far-famed2 and when the first railway was built from ,san ,francisco to ,portland1 the astute makers of the time-table somehow managed it so that most of the trains stopped at ,aurora1 though it is but twenty-eight miles from the terminal1 ,portland4 ,nor was that all4 ,the popularity of the ,aurora cookery suggested the idea that it might be profitable to erect a restaurant tent in ,salem during the annual ,state ,fair4 ,the result was astonishing4 ,all the other eating-places were soon completely deserted2 the ,aurora tent had to be enlarged1 and there was such a mad rush for seats at the tables that in a few days nearly every man and woman and boy and girl in the village had been drafted to serve as cooks or waiters4 ,it was plain ,german bourgeois cooking2 but the sausages were made of honest pork and the hams had the appetizing flavor which the old-fashioned smokehouse gives them2 the bread was soft yet baked thoroughly1 the butter was fresh and fragrant and the pancakes melted in the mouth4 ,as for the supreme effort of ,aurora cookery--noodle soup made with the boiled chicken 7not cold-storage chicken7 served in the plate--the mere memory of it makes my mouth water1 four decades after eating it4 ,in justice to ,portland1 which in those days was in a benighted condition fully warranting the action of the railway men in making ,aurora their culinary terminus1 let me hasten to add that at present1 with its ,chinook salmon and ,columbia ,river smelt1 its hard-shell crabs and razor clams1 its delicious ,willamette crawfish--rivaling the best ,french crevisses--its fragrant mammoth strawberries1 its juicy cherries1 and its world-famed ,hood ,river apples1 it is hardly second to ,san ,francisco as a gastronomic center4 ,in ,oregon1 as in ,washington and ,california1 the epicure fares particularly well because the luxuries of life are as cheap as the staples and quite as abundant1 if not more so4 ,,are ,,women ,,to ,,blame8 ,inasmuch as an ,american is quite as capable of enjoying a good meal as any one else1 why is it that we are so conspicuously ungastronomic as a nation8 ,it is obvious that the cooks are largely to blame4 ,it is so difficult to procure a good cook that most of us give up the search in despair and resignedly eat what is placed before us4 ,in ,europe it is still comparatively easy to find a young woman or a man who1 by domestic training1 has learned to prepare a savory meal and is willing to take the trouble necessary to get satisfactory results4 ,in the ,united ,states few of the helpers available have any domestic traditions to fall back on4 ,as a rule1 they frankly admit1 on applying for a place1 that they know only plain cooking4 ,as a matter of fact1 few of them can even boil an egg or a potato without spoiling it4 ,they are not interested in their work1 as they would be if they were experts1 and their main object is to get as much money as they can for as little work as possible4 ,to be sure1 a cook's hours are long1 but many of them are spent in dawdling4 ,it is unfortunate that most of our hired cooks are ,irish4 ,there are and have been excellent cooks of this nation1 but as a rule the ,irish are not so interested in this art as the ,french1 ,germans1 ,italians and ,swedes1 and the results are deplorable1 especially when1 as is usually the case1 the mistress is herself so ignorant that she cannot tell the cook why the food is wrong and how it could be improved4 ,the worst of it is that if the mistress of the house does know enough herself to teach the new cook some tricks1 the latter is likely to leave because1 on account of this newly acquired knowledge1 she can get higher wages elsewhere6 ,which reminds me of what happened to my wife's grandmother4 ,she once had a cook who was absolutely green1 but who wanted the highest wages4 ,when asked how she could demand so much when she admitted her ignorance1 she retorted3 ,ah1 ,mrs4 ,black1 the larnin' is the sevarest part of it4 ,it will not do1 however1 to put all the blame on the domestic helpers4 ,only one family in twelve1 even in our wealthy country1 can afford to hire a cook4 ,in the other eleven families the women of the house are personally responsible for the meals4 ,why are these generally so unsatisfactory8 ,visitors from abroad who have asked themselves this question1 usually answer it by saying that ,americans have idolized and spoiled their women and are now paying the penalty4 ,the ,european1 says one of them1 takes it as a matter of course that the woman he marries will be his home-maker and housekeeper1 able and willing1 if necessary1 to do the careful cooking on which his health and his enjoyment of life depend so largely4 ,in ,america the main object of the women seems to be to throw off all the responsibilities of housekeeping so that they may either gad about socially or engage in outside employment4 ,the necessary meals are hastily cooked1 marketing is done by telephone1 the grocer and butcher are foolishly trusted as to the quality of the raw material1 and the results are such as we see--monotonous1 unwholesome1 insipid meals1 followed by indigestion4 ,there is no doubt some truth in this foreigner's observations1 though he takes no account of the many thousands of ,american wives who work as hard to make their homes abodes of comfort1 health and happiness as their husbands do to supply the necessary cash4 ,on the ,american men falls a large share of the blame for existing conditions4 ,completely absorbed in their private and particular business they labored too long under the delusion that their whole duty consisted in supplying the cash needed for housekeeping4 ,their indifference to the sources and the quality of the raw material of the food they ate1 brought into existence a horde of adulterators and poisoners on a scale never before witnessed anywhere--and that is another important reason why we are not a gastronomic nation4 ,with such sophisticated material the best cooks in the world could not prepare appetizing1 wholesome meals2 and when meals are not appetizing1 men lose interest in them1 bolting their food1 and passing on to things that seem more important and agreeable4 ,adulterators and spoilers of food have existed since the days of the ancient ,greeks and ,romans and probably they flourished long before them2 but never before had the far-famed ,yankee ingenuity been brought to bear on the ignoble task of deceiving people as to what they were eating and drinking4 ,of this ingenuity a striking illustration was given at ,washington when the pure food agitators1 headed by ,dr4 ,wiley of the ,department of ,agriculture1 gave an exhibit before ,congress4 ,on a table had been placed--along with other similarly fraudulent articles--a bottle of honey4 ,on the surface of it floated a bee4 ,now1 the man who put that bee in the bottle had said to himself3 ,nine persons out of ten will1 on seeing it1 conclude instantly that it got in accidentally and that it proves the honey to be genuine4 ,but that bottle never contained any honey2 it was filled with a sticky1 sweet substance resembling honey in appearance1 but instead of being made up of the products of the bee's beneficent floral industry1 it contained ingredients some of which were injurious to health4 ,,the ,,danger ,,in ,,our ,,food4 ,that bottle was a sample of thousands of adulterated or entirely spurious foods for which ,american men and women had been for a long time spending good money in the belief that they were getting what they paid for4 ,a quarter of a century ago the food poisoners and adulterators spread a net of fraud across the ,united ,states1 the like of which the world had never seen2 and for a long time the ,american public1 with the meekness 7up to a certain point67 for which it has become notorious1 submitted to this abuse1 eating the drugged food and suffering the daily pangs of indigestion1 wondering vaguely what was the matter--why ,europeans found us a nation of dyspeptics--and paying fortunes to doctors1 and to vendors of patent medicines1 without being able to avert the final general breakdown4 ,then something occurred which made the worm turn on its tormentors--the embalmed beef incident4 ,major-,general ,miles1 backed up by other officers1 declared positively that most of the canned beef supplied to our soldiers during the war with ,spain was unfit for human food1 and that he was convinced that the refrigerated beef supplied was highly deleterious because of the introduction of chemicals for preservative purposes4 ,the court which investigated these charges1 while admitting some of the alleged evils1 indulged1 many people thought1 in whitewashing2 so the public at last made up its mind that something was rotten in the state of ,denmark4 ,particularly was it impressed by the statement that the food supplied to the army was not different from that generally sold to the public4 ,that admission made people ask themselves3 ,what1 then1 are we eating8 ,the result was a general awakening and investigation1 a countrywide search which revealed the shocking fact that the community was harboring thousands of seemingly respectable citizens who were piling up fortunes by plying the deadly trade of modern ,borgias1 slaughtering infants and invalids and making even the robust feel uncomfortable most of the time4 ,the chemicals used were formalin1 boric and salicylic acid1 fluo-sylicate of ammonium1 aniline dyes1 and a number of secret compounds that were sold to packers and dealers1 enabling them to doctor spoiled meats and other foods in such a way as to deceive the purchaser and consumer into thinking them fresh and wholesome4 ,to realize the full extent of this nefarious traffic one has to go back to the newspaper reports of the investigations and food tests1 especially in the year #ahii1 after the embalmed beef inquiry4 ,i have before me clippings that would fill fifty pages with gruesome details2 but a mere peep into this culinary chamber of horrors must suffice4 ,the use of antiseptics as preservatives is becoming alarmingly great1 declared ,prof4 ,a4 ,s4 ,mitchell1 analytical chemist of the ,wisconsin ,dairy and ,food ,commission1 before the ,senatorial ,committee on ,pure ,food ,investigation4 ,among the preservatives he named was a liquid called freezene1 which he said1 was almost pure formic-aldehyde1 the substance that several chemists at the military inquiry had claimed to have found in the beef furnished the army4 ,it acts disastrously upon the tissues of the stomach1 but was often put into the milk and butter supplied to families4 ,butchers employed freely1 especially in ,hamburger steaks1 sulphite of soda1 which not merely arrests digestion1 but is1 as another ,government expert remarked1 practically the same he had used as a medical student to preserve corpses1 and later to disinfect houses where smallpox patients had lived4 ,the ,new ,york ,herald of ,june #d1 #ahii1 contained a page and a half of exposures1 with these headlines3 ,,poison ,,and ,,adulteration ,,found ,,in ,,all ,,food ,,purchased ,,by ,,the ,,herald4 ,,forty ,,samples ,,analyzed ,,and ,,not ,,one ,,of ,,them ,,what ,,it ,,purported ,,to ,,be4 ,,tea ,,that ,,contained ,,almost ,,everything ,,but ,,tea ,,leaves4 ,,some ,,facts ,,that ,,every ,,house-,,keeper ,,should ,,know4 ,,the ,,city ,,authorities ,,do ,,little4 ,one of the samples of what was sold as tea was composed of refuse of many kinds--hair1 mouldy leaves from everything that grows but the tea plant4 ,another sample contained dust1 seed-pods1 foreign woody stems1 and unidentified refuse4 ,to cite one more of the two-score analyses made by the ,herald's expert 7,james ,c4 ,duff1 consulting chemist to the ,new ,york ,produce ,exchange73 ,the sample of ,american macaroni contains artificial yellow coloring matter1 egg-yolk color1 composed of flour and the coloring matter4 ,this coloring matter has as its base chrome colors--substances very poisonous4 ,the genuine ,italian macaroni contains nothing injurious to health4 ,reports from analysts in other cities show that #ib per cent4 of the allspice examined is adulterated1 #ej per cent4 of cinnamon1 #fj per cent4 of ginger1 #ajj per cent4 of mustard1 and #gj per cent4 of pepper4444 ,it is a matter of record that the demand for the materials for adulteration has called into existence a branch of manufacturing industry having for its sole object the production of articles known as 'spice mixtures' or 'pepper dust4' ,they are sold by the barrel as ',p4 ,d4 ginger1' ',p4 ,d4 pepper1' or ',p4 ,d4 cloves4' ,these manufacturers openly advertise themselves as 'assorters and renovators of merchandise4444' ,the ,new ,york ,tribune printed a report of an address made by a representative of the ,benchmen's ,association of ,retail ,butchers who said1 regarding the upper ,west ,side3 ,decayed meats are chemically treated to counteract odor and outer discoloration and are hawked on the street corners on ,saturday nights4 ,the shoppers of that locality are after something cheap1 and here they get it4 ,resulting illness is ascribed to a mysterious ,providence or anything rather than the 'nice tender broilers1 two for a quarter1' that they had for ,sunday's dinner4 ,the police say the matter is one for the ,health ,department1 and the ,health ,department refers your complaints to its inspectors4 ,these are paid from #a1bjj to #a1djj a year1 and to my positive knowledge not one of them has entered our shops for the last seven years4 ,for all the ,health ,department knows1 we might have been selling spoiled meat all that time4 ,a ,philadelphian investigator of adulterated food1 ,h4 ,wharton ,amberling1 wrote3 ,there has been adulteration for ages4 ,it is born of the same parentage as robbery1 perjury1 arson and murder4 ,it has grown in enormity because the law has not dealt with it as it has with other crimes4 ,the rapid progress of chemistry has attained most grateful accomplishments1 but the leprous hand of adulteration is using it to fill our blood with the poison of disease and death4 ,it is estimated1 said the ,new ,york ,evening ,post1 that the people of the ,united ,states spend no less than five billion dollars a year for food and that nine-tenths of this money is paid for articles of food which are more or less adulterated4 ,all food adulterations are not injurious1 though a great majority of them1 probably nine-tenths1 are so1 in greater or less degree4444 ,the art of adulterating food has been carried to a very fine point by ,american ingenuity and has proved immensely profitable to those who practise it1 while it has undoubtedly worked great damage to the general health4444 ,it is a wise man who knows what he is eating nowadays4 ,illustration3 ,a matter for the ,health ,department ,a report of the ,connecticut ,agricultural ,experiment ,station called attention to the fact that eighty-nine samples of tea were all found pure as a result of the federal law of #ahig1 which established a board of seven experts to enforce the statute and forbade importation of the adulterated article4 ,the ,american products were on the other hand in a woeful condition4 ,sixty-three samples of fruit jelly examined showed adulteration in two-thirds of the cases by starch1 glucose1 aniline dyes1 and salicylic acid4 ,pure jellies cost #be cents a pound while these artificial jellies cost but five cents4 ,out of #dj samples of marmalades and jams only three were pure4 ,examination of nineteen samples of sausages and oysters showed embalming by boric acid4 ,,why ,,the ,,candy ,,was ,,not ,,eaten4 ,miss ,alice ,lakey1 chairman of the food investigating committee of the ,food ,consumers' ,league1 made a collection1 as the ,new ,york ,sun reported1 of squares of flannel1 a dozen of them1 in brilliant hues of green1 red1 pink1 and other colors--all colored with the coal tar dyes that came out of eatables and drinkables1 she explained1 adding3 ,it's a wonder that our insides are not dyed all the colors of the rainbow4 ,one of the meanest forms of adulteration ,i know1 she further remarked1 is the blackberry brandy1 because that is bought for invalids1 aged and delicate persons1 who hope to get a little strength and appetite from it4 ,out of #fjj samples examined1 #dfj contained no trace of blackberries4 ,they were made of crude spirits colored with coal tar dyes4 ,did you ever hear the story1 she continued1 of the kind-hearted ,new ,york woman who invited a company of ,italian girls who worked in a candy factory to a ,christmas party8 ,she had an entertainment and ,christmas tree for them1 and among other things was a box of fine chocolate creams for each one4 ,when they went away every child left her box of candy on the chair behind her4 ',why1 aren't you going to take your chocolates8' said the surprised hostess4 ',oh1 no1' they said in chorus2 'we make those6' ,that tells the whole story4 ,the slaughter of the innocents and the ruining of health of children by means of adulterated and poisoned candies was for decades a national crime that would have justified thousands of lynchings1 if anything ever does justify such summary meting out of punishment4 ,dr4 ,shepard1 ,state chemist of ,south ,dakota1 framed a series of menus1 on the plan of those published by the women's magazines1 to assist housewives in catering for families4 ,here are three1 which show how any family in the ,united ,states might have reasonably taken forty doses of chemical preservatives and coal tar dyes in one day3 ,,breakfast ,sausages containing coal tar dye and borax ,baker's ,bread containing alum ,butter containing coal tar dye ,canned ,cherries containing coal tar dye and salicylic acid ,pancakes containing alum ,syrup containing sodium sulphate ,,dinner ,tomato ,soup with coal tar dye and benzoic acid ,cabbage and ,corned ,beef with saltpeter ,corn ,scallops with sulphurous acid and formaldehyde ,canned ,peas with salicylic acid ,catsup with coal tar dye and benzoic acid ,vinegar with coal tar dye ,mince ,pie with boracic acid ,pickles with copperas1 sodium sulphate and salicylic acid ,lemon ,ice ,cream with methyl alcohol ,,supper ,bread and ,butter with alum and coal tar dye ,canned ,beef with borax ,canned ,peaches with sodium sulphite1 coal tar dye and salicylic acid ,pickles with copperas1 sodium sulphate and formaldehyde ,catsup with coal tar dye and benzoic acid ,lemon ,cake with alum ,baked ,pork and ,beans with formaldehyde ,vinegar1 coal tar dye ,currant ,jelly1 coal tar dye and salicylic acid ,cheese1 coal tar dye ,physicians sometimes prescribe such chemicals1 when they are indicated1 in very small doses4 ,the ,food ,commissioner of ,north ,dakota1 ,dr4 ,ladd1 reported in a bulletin that he found from five to fifteen grains of boric acid to every pound of ham1 dried beef1 etc41 examined2 while in hamburger steaks1 sausages1 etc41 the amount ranged from twenty to fifty grains a pound4 ,the maximum dose of boric acid prescribed by a physician is said not to exceed ten grains daily4 ,,dr4 ,,wiley',s ,,poison ,,squad4 ,napoleon ,bonaparte said that soldiers march and fight on their stomachs4 ,if our soldiers1 fed on embalmed beef and other chemically treated food1 had had much marching and fighting to do1 ,spain might have won4 ,as it was1 the ,american soldiers who were killed or invalided during that war1 were martyrs to a nobler cause than that of humiliating poor ,spain4 ,it was their sufferings that1 as already intimated1 led to the national revolt against the wholesale poisoners and adulterators for commercial profit4 ,as a matter of course1 the parties accused showed fight4 ,one of the earliest battles was fought over borax1 and it was in this battle that ,dr4 ,wiley first came before the general public prominently4 ,during the months from ,december1 #aijb1 to ,july #a1 #aijc1 he made a series of experiments on twelve young men in ,washington as to the influence on the health of food containing boric acid or borax4 ,some of the conclusions reached were thus summed up briefly3 ,when boric acid or its equivalent in borax is taken in food in quantities not exceeding a half gram daily1 no immediate effects are observed2 after a time there occur occasional loss of appetite1 a feeling of fullness in the head1 gastric discomfort1 and general ill-feeling4 ,only the more sensitive persons develop symptoms from the amounts named4 ,when the drug is given in larger and increasing doses1 these symptoms in accentuated form develop more rapidly2 most common is persistent headache with slight clouding of the mental processes4 ,the quantity of boric acid required to produce definite symptoms varies greatly with different individuals4 ,in some1 one to two grams daily produce decided distress2 in others1 three grams cause little if any discomfort4 ,conclusions regarding the use of less than half a gram daily were not reached1 but from the effect of the larger quantities taken for a short time1 it is reasonable to infer that smaller doses during an extended period would also prove injurious4 ,the results in general indicate that it is not advisable to use borax in articles of food intended for common and continuous use4 ,when placed in foods used only occasionally and in small amounts1 the quantity of the contained preservative should be stated plainly1 that the consumer may know what he is eating4 ,one of the most interesting facts1 and one known to few1 in connection with these experiments1 is that ,dr4 ,wiley actually began them with a bias in favor of borax4 ,he did not believe1 he said1 that borax was a harmful preservative1 but he was going to find out4 ,this statement aroused my suspicion4 ,knowing how much graft and politics there are apt to be in such investigations1 ,i made up my mind that ,dr4 ,wiley was a fraud and that he would undoubtedly give a verdict in favor of borax4 ,while in this frame of mind ,i wrote the following editorial for the ,new ,york ,evening ,post 7,april #h1 #aijc73 ,dr4 ,wiley1 of the ,department of ,agriculture1 seems to require a long time to decide whether his brigade of poison eaters1 as the ,washington wits have dubbed his free boarders1 are really eating poison or only harmless food preservatives unjustly suspected of being injurious4 ,it needed no elaborate experiments to prove that drugged food may be eaten without serious harm4 ,many of us are probably eating more or less of drugged food all the time without actually having to be taken to the hospital2 but many others do suffer in health1 vitality and capacity for work from eating it4 ,in regard to salicylic acid and formaldehyde1 ,dr4 ,wiley himself wrote in ,leslie's ,weekly two years ago that there is no doubt of the pernicious influence of these preservatives in some cases4 ,he also said1 truly1 that the public supervision should look after the weak and diseased digestive systems rather than the strong and vigorous4 ,why1 nevertheless1 he chose to make his ,washington experiments on the strongest young men he could find is a mystery he has not explained4 ,in the ,lancet of ,nov4 #cj1 #aija1 an account was given of a series of experiments with boric acid made by ,dr4 ,rinehart1 in which the symptoms of poisoning disappeared as soon as the use of the drug was given up4 ,further evidence is furnished in the ,mnchener ,medicinische ,wochenschrift of ,jan4 #bf4 ,dr4 ,g4 ,merkel1 of ,nuremberg1 experimented with boric acid on eleven patients1 seven of whom promptly showed disturbance of the gastro-intestinal tract4 ,the inevitable inference from such facts is either that the use of boric acid as a preservative of food should be prohibited by law1 or1 at least1 that the law should require mention of its use on the label of canned goods1 and in butter1 cream1 milk and meat1 in order that those whose digestion is not as robust as that of ,dr4 ,wiley's select boarders may take warning4 ,illustration3 ,,harvey ,w4 ,,wiley ,the fact that these remarks were widely copied showed that many other editors shared my suspicions4 ,then came ,dr4 ,wiley's verdict1 which proclaimed him the honest1 bold1 incorruptible champion of truth who was soon to become respected1 admired1 and idolized by the whole ,american public1 with the exception of those who had commercial reasons for disliking him4 ,perhaps ,i may be pardoned for inserting here a reference to an amusing incident that occurred during this controversy4 ,another article of mine1 in which ,i had spoken disrespectfully of borax1 resulted the following day in a visit to the office of the ,evening ,post by a man who wanted to see the borax editor4 ,he was shown to my room1 and promptly proceeded to inform me that ,i was entirely mistaken in thinking borax harmful4 ,i replied that ,i considered borax one of the most useful things in the world1 the greatest of dirt-chasers1 indispensable on the wash stand and in the wash house2 but as for internal use1 ,i had had days of discomfort which made me look on it with feelings of genuine alarm4 ,i'll tell you what ,i'll do6 retorted the man1 who represented one of the large borax companies4 ,i am willing to take a glass of water1 put in a tablespoonful of borax and drink it right before you4 ,that's nothing1 ,i replied2 ,i wouldn't hesitate to do the same thing4 ,borax is not a deadly drug like arsenic or strychnine1 it is a chemical which1 taken into the stomach in small doses day after day1 week after week1 and month after month1 acts as a cumulative poison1 gradually weakening even the strongest stomach2 and1 inasmuch as the stomach is the source of most diseases1 thus paving the way for all sorts of troubles4#a ,,condiments ,,versus ,,chemical ,,preservatives4 ,until about three decades ago it was customary the world over to cure meats with condimental substances1 particularly salt1 vinegar1 sugar1 and wood smoke4 ,these not only preserved the meats but developed their inherent flavors1 while adding others that were equally relished by consumers1 thus enabling them to enjoy their meals without disagreeable and depressing after-effects4 ,illustration3 ,the old-fashioned way ,all at once1 like a devastating avalanche1 the wholesale use of non-condimental chemicals tumbled upon the country4 ,why the avalanche grew so fast may be gathered from a few lines on page #cg of the second edition of ,dr4 ,wiley's admirable book1 just referred to in a footnote2 lines which deserve to be printed in italics1 and which every reader should engrave on his memory3 ,the chemicals employed are those known as germicides4 ,in the quantities used they neither impart a taste nor odor to a preserved meat1 but by their germicidal properties prevent the development of organic ferments and thus make the preservation of meat far more certain and very much less expensive4 ,by the use of some chemicals the salting1 sugaring1 and smoking of preserved meat may be done with very much less care1 in a very much shorter time1 and at a very greatly reduced expense4 ,for this reason the practice has gained a great vogue1 not as a means of benefiting the consumers1 but rather as a means of enriching the packer and dealer4 ,chemical preservatives are also highly objectionable because they keep meats apparently fresh1 while in reality changes of the most dangerous character may be going on4 ,they thus prevent the display of the red light danger signal4 ,concerning this last point the ,london ,lancet has used another and equally forcible simile3 ,it is by no means certain that preservatives in small quantities can prevent decomposition4 ,they do stop putrefaction and thus destroy the signs by which decomposition is made evident to the senses4 ,their effect resembles that of tying down the safety valve of a steam engine4 ,the advocates of food preservatives seem always to ignore1 or to be ignorant of1 the opportunity afforded and advantage taken of their use for dirty and fraudulent practices4 ,these remarks are of the utmost importance1 for they call attention to the fact that even if the chemical1 non-condimental preservatives were not slow poisons1 it would be necessary to forbid their use because they enable unscrupulous persons to make foods of the most nauseating substances4 ,let me quote another expert1 who states the case vividly3 ,milk1 eggs and fish are three foods especially which become extremely dangerous when decomposition sets in4 ,the chemicals placed in them by dealers destroy the offensive taste and odor1 thus robbing nature of her means of protecting us from danger4 ,many little children killed from eating ice cream and bakery products never would have tasted them if the smell and taste of the rotten eggs and putrid milk had not been hidden by the chemicals4 ,the vilest1 most malodorous factory refuse may be made pleasant to the sight1 taste and smell through the magical effects of benzoate of soda1 saccharin and coal tar dye4 ,the coal tar dye gives a clear1 translucent appearance to the product2 the saccharin sweetens it and benzoate of soda embalms it so it will keep for a decade without spoiling4 ,these disguised putrid foods are additionally dangerous in hot weather4 ,,scotched1 ,,not ,,killed4 ,the great outcry raised by all these startling revelations concerning the unscrupulous methods of the food poisoners resulted in the passage1 in #aijf1 of the epoch-making ,food and ,drugs ,act1 which gave the ,united ,states a most elaborate and minute set of laws for the protection of the public and the punishment of offenders4 ,the result was an immediate and decided improvement in many departments1 especially that of canned fruits1 concerning which ,dr4 ,wiley wrote in #aiaa that the time is now rapidly approaching when all such goods will be free of any imitation or adulteration1 and this will add greatly to their value in the markets of the country4 ,in many other directions1 however1 the drugging of foods with slow poisons continued4 ,the snake was only scotched1 not killed4 ,if you took all the food in ,new ,york ,city to-day and put it in a big tent down in ,texas1 ,i would throw away #dj per cent4 of it1 said ,gaston ,g4 ,netter of the ,geneva ,white ,cross ,society 7which is the ,international ,pure ,food ,association71 in ,october1 #aiaa4 ,the people here in ,new ,york ,city are being hourly poisoned by food labeled as absolutely pure4 ,i buy it and test it every day and ,i know4 ,i saw some sardines marked 'pure sardines in olive oil4' ,they were a disintegrated mass of decayed1 poisonous fish1 and the oil had never known an olive4 ,a large percentage of the vinegar used for preserving such things as prunes is an acidulated preparation fatal to the lining of the stomach4 ,the vinegar sold by many grocers in defiance of the law is made with acetic acid1 which is prepared by the destructive distillation of wood4 ,so little of this is needed that the adulterator can make a gallon of vinegar at a cost of two cents1 or a barrel for a dollar4 ,this1 sold in bottles1 yields a profit of over #bj a barrel4 ,sometimes a trace of malic acid or concentrated apple juice is added to give a reaction which may fool the analyst4 ,it is this poisonous stuff that is used in ,american homes to dress salads and is put into bottles of chow chow1 chili sauce1 and the pickles so dear to school children4 ,concerning the cheap candies that are still dearer to the children1 ,harry ,p4 ,cassidy in an address before the wholesale candy dealers 7reported in the ,new ,york ,sun of ,march #aj1 #aiab71 said3 ,we have found burnt umber in candy which is sold and guaranteed as pure to the small shopkeepers4 ,we have found stearin in it which melts only at a temperature of #ace degrees ,fahrenheit1 whereas the temperature of the human body is only #ih4f degrees4 ,we have found furniture glue and dangerous ether flavoring matter and paraffin and shellac and many other injurious substances which the members of this association handle4 ,another speaker at this meeting1 ,prof4 ,charles ,la ,wall1 spoke of lampblack as being used to color so-called licorice and of marshmallows that had been blued with ultramarine1 just as bluing is used in washing clothes4 ,poisonous sulphuric acid may be contained in molasses1 glucose1 shredded cocoanut and many other things4 ,as candies are often composed chiefly of these four products1 a child in buying a penny's worth of candy may get four doses in one of the deadly sulphites such as the cleaner uses in whitening our straw hats4 ,america is specially noted1 as ,rutledge ,rutherford remarks in the ,national ,food ,magazine 7#aiab71 for two things--its chemicalized food and its infantile mortality4 ,according to the estimate of the ,new ,york food expert1 ,alfred ,w4 ,mc,cann1 three million persons in the ,united ,states were made ill by adulterated foods in #aiaa4 ,that was five years after the passing of the ,pure ,food ,law4 ,the trouble with that law is that it is not interstate4 ,a dishonest man in one ,state can do all the food doping he pleases as long as he does not sell any of it in another ,state4 ,most of the ,states now have laws of their own on this matter1 but often they leave much to be desired4 ,what is worse1 these laws are not enforced2 or1 if the criminals are brought to bay1 the punishment is so mild that it does not prevent a repetition of the offense4 ,if a grocer knew that a can of tomatoes or a can of sardines sold by him could be taken to the corner and analyzed and if found bad that he would be prosecuted1 the pure food law would be a real thing1 says ,gaston ,g4 ,netter1 who asserts that if ,new ,york ,city would bring about such a reform--at a cost of perhaps #aej1jjj a year--it would do away with half the medical clinics4 ,fines alone will not suffice to bring about a reform4 ,we can hardly follow the example of the ,turks who1 if a baker gives false weight or adulterates his bread1 cut off one of his ears and nail it to the door post4 ,but we could follow the example of the wise municipal officials who compelled the ,munich brewers to make honest beer1 out of malt and hops alone4 ,at first1 fines were imposed for using other materials1 and these fines were made larger and larger2 but the brewers found they could pay the highest fines and still save money by using chemicals4 ,then the lawmakers changed their tactics2 the man highest up was threatened with imprisonment4 ,the millionaire brewers had a pardonable aversion to jail--and from that time on ,munich beer became the best in the world4 ,ere long1 whole trainloads of it began to be sent daily in all directions--to ,north ,germany and ,russia1 to ,paris and ,london1 to ,vienna1 and to the cities of ,italy4 ,the brewers had been compelled1 at pistol's point1 to acknowledge the truth that1 after all1 in the long run1 honesty is the best policy4 ,some of the largest ,american manufacturing firms have followed this policy voluntarily1 though the prices they have to pay for good fresh material places them at a great disadvantage to the adulterators who buy any rotten old thing and renovate it1 or else make the article entirely of chemicals4 ,in four years1 said ,alfred ,w4 ,mc,cann 7in ,march1 #aiab71 the ,government has caught nearly fifty wholesale adulterators in the act of shipping bogus vinegar from one ,state into another4 ,in every instance the ,government won its case1 but in every instance petty fines were inflicted by the courts and the same offenders were caught again and again4444 ,small fines have no deterrent effect on food frauds4 ,the game is too profitable to suffer extinction under any other influence than jail sentences1 and jail sentences have not been imposed in a single case brought by the ,government against food or drug adulterators4 ,food and drug adulterators are wealthy men1 but they are not stingy4 ,they gladly share their sordid earnings with the politicians who protect them4 ,why do the ,states delay in enacting uniform laws patterned after the excellent national laws8 asks ,mr4 ,mc,cann2 and his answer tells the plain truth3 ,each ,state has some powerful pet food industry to protect and some weak legislators willing to do the bidding of the fakers4 ,every reader of this book perused in the newspapers the story of the disgraceful conspiracy in ,washington against ,dr4 ,wiley1 and remembers vividly the nationwide outburst of indignation which came to the rescue of the courageous chemist and made him a national hero4 ,he remained for the time being1 but his enemies were not punished1 although the ,president promised to reform the ,department of ,agriculture4 ,his failure to do so is one of the principal reasons why he was not re-elected4 ,dr4 ,wiley1 seeing that his efforts to secure the enforcement of the ,pure ,food ,laws were useless1 at last resigned1 and in ,good ,housekeeping for ,october1 #aiab1 he gave some of the reasons for this step4 ,the ,remsen ,board was created for the express purpose of reviewing his decisions against food manipulators4 ,it never missed a chance to reverse them1 to the huge delight of certain manufacturers and dealers4 ,although the ,moss investigating committee unanimously pronounced the ,remsen ,board as wholly without authority1 its decisions were followed by officials of the ,government2 important matters referred to it were held in abeyance4 ,for instance1 an exhaustive report of the experiments made in the ,bureau of ,chemistry1 which showed1 in ,dr4 ,wiley's opinion1 the injuriousness of copper sulphate when added to foods1 has been hibernating in the ,department of ,archives for the past four years and its use permitted in the interim4 ,the opposition to ,dr4 ,wiley's decisions brought about practical paralysis in all matters pertaining to the addition of benzoic acid1 sulphurous acid1 saccharine1 sulphate of copper1 and alum to food products4 ,as it was the addition of these bodies which constituted #ie per cent4 of the total adulteration practised1 it is easy to see that1 so far as adulteration was concerned1 the food law became practically a dead letter4 ,the physicians of the country1 who1 better than others1 know the danger of using drugs indiscriminately1 sided with ,dr4 ,wiley4 ,at a meeting in ,pittsburg of the ,american ,medical ,association1 representing #be1jjj physicians and surgeons1 that body in spite of the decision of the referee board1 pledged itself uncompromisingly against benzoate of soda and all other chemical forms of food preservatives4 ,how bitterly the war against ,dr4 ,wiley and pure-food legislation was carried on1 not only at ,washington but in various ,states with aid from ,washington1 is illustrated by the following extract from a letter written to ,dr4 ,wiley by the ,health ,commissioner of ,indiana3 ,it is not necessary to recall to you the tremendous difficulties under which the ,state labored when it endeavored to prevent the overthrow of its pure food law because of the activities of the ,department of ,agriculture in behalf of the firms who were seeking that end2 how we were refused the assistance of yourself and your chemists2 how we had to compel the getting of testimony by an order of the court of the ,district of ,columbia1 and how1 on the other hand1 employees of the ,government known to be in sympathy with the firms bringing suit against us were sent to ,indianapolis to testify against the ,state at the expense of the ,department of ,agriculture4 ,another illustration of the war on the ,pure ,food ,laws was given in the ,new ,york ,globe of ,oct4 #bd1 #aiab1 by ,alfred ,w4 ,mc,cann4 ,after pointing out that there has been no let-up in attempts to deceive1 and that food ideals depend absolutely on the integrity and zeal of a few so-called fanatics like ,dr4 ,wiley1 who are thus far responsible for all the advance we have made1 he goes on to say3 ,in the ,state of ,pennsylvania one of the most active pure food workers1 who has contributed energy and zeal to the cause of the people1 ,h4 ,p4 ,cassidy1 special agent of the ,pennsylvania ,dairy and ,food ,department1 after ten years of remarkable service has been removed from office by the same kind of pressure which finally disposed of ,dr4 ,wiley4 ,charges were made a few days ago against ,mr4 ,cassidy1 whose activity had resulted in more than #h1jjj arrests for food adulterations in the ,city of ,philadelphia alone4 ,he demanded a hearing before the governor4 ,the hearing was granted4 ,the charges fell to pieces and ,mr4 ,cassidy1 like ,dr4 ,wiley1 was vindicated4 ,two days later the ,pennsylvania authorities notified him that1 although he was found guiltless1 harmonious relations between him and his chiefs had been strained1 and therefore for the good of the service it was decided that he should be dismissed4 ,if the pure food movement were making the kind of progress which it is thought to be making1 such backward steps would not be tolerated by the people1 for the dismissal from office of such a man as ,cassidy will serve as a warning to other pure food officials not to be too zealous in the discharge of their duties4 ,the direct result of ,cassidy's dismissal will show itself in the ,state of ,pennsylvania by a long line of cowardice in applying the law4 ,i make this prophecy and guarantee its fulfilment4 ,it is needless to dwell further on these disgraceful efforts to thwart the ,pure ,food ,laws4 ,dr4 ,wiley did not exaggerate when in summing up the situation he printed the following1 in italics3 ,no further blot upon the administration of law can1 in my opinion1 be found in the history of the ,united ,states than this effort of the ,united ,states ,government to paralyze1 belittle1 and destroy a law passed in the interests of the people of the country4 ,illustration,a table full of food ,,ii ,,vital ,,importance ,,of ,,flavor ,startling as are the facts in the foregoing chapter1 they do not tell the whole story4 ,we have seen that the non-condimental chemical preservatives used by the food poisoners are highly objectionable on two grounds3 7#a7 because they are usually injurious and often deadly2 and 7#b7 because they enable unscrupulous persons to use the filthiest1 rottenest material and so doctor it as to deceive the consumer into believing it to be wholesome food1 whereas it may1 and often does1 result in ptomaine poisoning4 ,but there is a third indictment against the food sophisticators4 ,the chemicals they use1 not only make the food they manipulate dangerous to eat1 but they also diminish and often completely destroy its ,flavor4 ,this destruction of the food ,flavors may seem to those who have given no special attention to this matter a thing to be regretted1 indeed1 but not an actual crime4 ,that it is a real crime1 because it helps to undermine the consumers' health1 ,i shall demonstrate in this chapter4 ,it is necessary to know the facts now to be set forth in order to realize the full significance of the deplorable state of affairs to be revealed in the next chapter1 entitled ,our ,denatured ,foods4 ,that chapter will continue the subject of ,ungastronomic ,america1 wherefore ,chapter ,,ii may be regarded as an ,intermezzo--but a most important one1 for it contains truths that are of vital importance to everybody4 ,indeed1 it is chiefly for the sake of impressing these truths on as many intelligent persons as possible that ,i am writing this book4 ,,sensual ,,indulgence ,,as ,a ,,duty4 ,too long we have been allowing covetous manufacturers and dealers and incompetent or indolent cooks to spoil our naturally good food4 ,we have done this because we have not as a nation understood that there is nothing in the world on which our health and hourly comfort1 our happiness and our capacity for hard work1 depend so much as on the ,flavor of food--those savory qualities which make it appetizing and enjoyable and therefore digestible and helpful4 ,it is not too much to say that the most important problem now before the ,american public is to learn to enjoy the pleasures of the table and to insist on having savory food at every meal4 ,there was a time when it would have been considered rank heresy to express such an opinion1 and even to-day there are millions of honest folk who hold that the enjoyment of a good meal is merely a form of sybaritic indulgence4 ,when ,ruskin wrote his ,modern ,painters he referred to the indulgence of taste as an ignoble source of pleasure4 ,he lived to realize the foolishness of this sneer2 in one of those amusing footnotes which he contributed to the final edition of that great work1 and in which he often assails his own former opinions with merciless severity1 he denounces the cruelty and absurdity of his failing to learn to appreciate the dainties provided by his father4 ,but his earlier opinion reflected the general attitude of the time toward the pleasures of the table4 ,fortunately1 in our efforts to fight the great ,american plague--dyspepsia--we are no longer seriously hampered by that ,puritan severity which caused the father of ,walter ,scott1 when young ,walter one day expressed his enjoyment of the soup1 to promptly mix with it a pint of water to take the devil out of it4 ,america's leading educator1 ,ex-,president ,eliot of ,harvard1 has expressed the more rational view of our time in these words3 ,sensuous pleasures1 like eating and drinking1 are sometimes described as animal1 and therefore unworthy1 but men are animals and have a right to enjoy without reproach those pleasures of animal existence which maintain health1 strength1 and life itself4 ,we may go farther than that1 asserting that not only have we a right to enjoy the pleasures of the table1 but it is our moral duty to do so4 ,the highest laws of health demand of us that we get as much pleasure out of our meals as possible4 ,to prove this statement is the main object of the present volume1 nearly every page of which bears witness to its truth1 directly or indirectly4 ,,gladstone ,,and ,,fletcher4 ,there is an old ,german proverb to the effect that if food is properly chewed it is half digested3 ,gut gekaut ist halb verdaut4 ,this is literally true1 but in ,england and ,america1 although physicians and others have long known it to be so1 it was not impressed on the general public's attention until the newspapers began to comment--some seriously1 others facetiously--on the statement that ,gladstone1 in #ahdh1 adopted certain rules for chewing food to which he ever after adhered and to which some observers attributed his remarkable physical vigor4 ,previous to that1 said the ,pall ,mall ,gazette1 he had always paid great attention to the requirements of nature1 but at that date he laid down as a rule for his children that thirty-two bites should be given to each mouthful of meat and a somewhat lesser number to bread1 fish1 etc4 ,now ,gladstone was wrong in suggesting that meat needed more munching than bread4 ,the stomach takes care of meat if it is not swallowed in too large chunks2 whereas bread1 as well as potatoes1 together with oatmeal and other cereals1 no matter how soft1 should be kept in the mouth some time to enable the saliva to partly digest them and prepare them for the lower viscera4 ,this error1 however1 did not detract seriously from the value of ,gladstone's directions4 ,the main thing was that his home rule called the attention of two nations to the unwisdom of bolting food and the advantage to health resulting from keeping it for some time in the mouth4 ,in its far-reaching effect on millions in two worlds it was perhaps of greater and more lasting value than any of his acts as a statesman4 ,this assertion gains strength from the fact that it was ,gladstone's example that started ,horace ,fletcher on his road as a reformer of the foolish eating habits of ,americans1 and others1 but ,americans in particular4 ,he has himself related 7in the ,ladies' ,home ,journal for ,september1 #aiji7 how it was that his thoughts were first directed into this channel through an epicurean friend who had a snipe estate among the marshlands of ,louisiana and a truffle preserve in ,france1 and who faithfully followed ,gladstone's rules in regard to the thorough chewing of food4 ,in #ahih ,mr4 ,fletcher began to work out the problem for himself1 to the great advantage of his health4 ,at the age of forty he was an old man1 on the way to a rapid decline4 ,his hair was white1 he weighed #bag pounds1 he was harrowed by indigestion1 and had that tired feeling4 ,at the age of sixty1 after eleven years of experiment1 he had reduced his weight to #agj pounds1 felt strong and well1 and had forgotten what it was to have the tired feeling4 ,his experience thus was similar to that of the ,italian nobleman1 ,luigi ,cornaro 7#adfg-aeff71 who was a dissipated wreck at the age of forty1 but who by reforming his way of eating1 regained his health and lived to be nearly a hundred4 ,after his eighty-third year he wrote four treatises on diet and longevity2 his autobiography has passed through more than forty ,english editions4 ,his wisdom might be summed up in these words3 ,as you grow older eat less4 ,horace ,fletcher is the ,cornaro of the nineteenth century4 ,everybody who ever knows he has a stomach should read one or both the books he has written on this subject3 ,the ,a ,b-,z of ,our ,own ,nutrition1 and ,the ,new ,glutton or ,epicure4 ,the first named owes its value largely to the fact that it includes reprints of valuable papers by eminent men of science and physicians1 the investigations of most of whom were in part prompted1 or inspired1 by ,mr4 ,fletcher's writings4 ,the most important of these are ,dr4 ,harvey ,campbell's ,observations on ,mastication1 and ,prof4 ,pawlow's articles on ,psychic ,influence in ,digestion4 ,most persons labor--or act as if they labored--under the delusion that the mouth was made chiefly for the ingestion of food and that the sole use of saliva is to lubricate it so that it can be easily and quickly swallowed4 ,mr4 ,fletcher did not discover the fact that the mouth is also a most important organ of digestion1 with the aid of saliva2 but he emphasized this important fact in his writings as no other writer had ever done1 proclaiming it from the housetops till thousands began to listen and heed and learn and benefit by his preaching2 and therein lies the importance of his name in the history of dietetic reform4 ,the gist of his doctrine may be given in a few words3 keep all food 7soft as well as hard1 liquid as well as solid1 moist as well as dry7 in the mouth and chew it till it has become thoroughly mingled with the saliva1 has lost all its flavor1 and is ready to disappear down the throat without an effort at swallowing4 ,gladstone's directions in regard to thirty-two masticatory movements are all right for some foods1 but others require no more than twenty1 while for some 7onions7 seven hundred hardly suffice to remove the odor and make them digestible4 ,unless the mouth thus does its work1 the lower digestive tract has to do it at ten times the expenditure of vital force1 and the result is dyspepsia4 ,illustration3 ,,horace ,,fletcher ,never1 surely1 was preaching more needed than these sermons of ,horace ,fletcher to the victims of ,america's national scourge of chronic indigestion4 ,it cannot be denied that there is a considerable amount of questionable faddism and exaggeration in his doctrines4 ,he1 himself1 frankly apologizes for such details in them as may suggest the scrappiness and extravagance of an intemperate screed1 on the ground that so-called screeds sometimes attract attention where sober statement fails to be heard2 which is unfortunately true4 ,many of ,fletcher's followers accept his exaggerations along with the sound parts of his doctrines4 ,they endorse the statements that he1 in inaugurating the chewing reform has done more to help suffering humanity than any other man of the present generation2 or1 as another writer1 a physician1 put it in a letter to him3 ,what you have done to unfold physiologic mastication means more for human weal than all the mere medical prescribes have given the world from ,adam to the present day4 ,it cannot be denied that medical and other scientific writers were culpable in not enlightening the public on these important matters1 and it serves them right1 therefore1 if ,fletcher has got the credit and the fame for doing this4 ,it is estimated that there are already more than #bjj1jjj ,fletcherites in the ,united ,states4 ,in the hope of increasing their number1 in the rational sense of the word1 let me dwell on a few of the things in which1 in my opinion1 ,mr4 ,fletcher is right1 and some of those beside which readers of his books will do well to place question marks4 ,in particular1 ,i wish to call further attention to his valuable remarks on the necessity of doing more mouth work than most of us do1 and on the importance of agreeable ,flavor in food as an aid to digestion4 ,many thousands of otherwise healthy persons bewail the fact that they have to avoid some of their favorite dishes because they find them indigestible4 ,to these individuals ,fletcherism1 as endorsed by ,dr4 ,campbell1 brings the cheering message that they can eat anything they please provided they give it the proper mouth treatment4 ,inasmuch as individuals differ in regard to the supply of saliva1 no general rules can be laid down as to how many bites any particular mouthful requires4 ,one person may dispose of a morsel of bread in thirty mastications while another may need fifty before it has disappeared down the throat without an effort at swallowing4 ,mr4 ,fletcher once had a tussle with a challot1 or young onion1 which required #gbb mastications before disappearing through involuntary swallowing4 ,but when it was down it left no odor upon the breath and created no disturbance whatever4 ,could anything more triumphantly proclaim the wonders of ,fletcherism8 ,here is another miracle3 ,abundant experiment has been made by those to whom ',boston brown bread' was formerly little less than a poison1 to prove the assertion that1 sufficiently mixed with saliva1 it is perfectly digestible and that the delicious taste of the bread after forty or fifty bites--about one-half minute--gets sweeter and sweeter1 and attains its greatest sweetness and most delicate taste at the very last1 when it has dissolved into liquid form and most of it has escaped into the stomach4 ,,the ,,harm ,,done ,,by ,,soft ,,foods4 ,dr4 ,campbell1 whose admirable articles on ,the ,importance of ,mastication cannot be too urgently brought to the reader's attention1#b has pointed out a very important reason why at present1 more than at any other time in the history of man1 there is need of mouth digestion4 ,the art of cooking has had a beautifying effect on the human face4 ,the jaws and teeth have become smaller because they are no longer called upon to bite off and chew raw1 tough1 and fibrous foods1 as they were in primitive days4 ,one of the results of agricultural progress has been to diminish the fibrous1 cellulosic food and make it more easy to masticate4 ,the food of to-day is for the most part soft and pappy1 of a kind which does not compel thorough mastication2 so much so that ,dr4 ,campbell thinks we may speak of this as the age of pap4 ,beginning with the babes1 we pour into their stomachs all kinds of artificial saccharine foods in liquid or semi-liquid form1 following this up1 later on1 with such viands as mashed potatoes and gravy1 rusks soaked in milk1 milk puddings1 bread dipped in bacon fat1 pounded mutton1 thin bread and butter1 and the like4 ,food of this kind does not invite mastication 7nor have mothers been taught to teach their children to keep it in the mouth1 the doctor might have added74 ,hence the instinct to masticate has little opportunity of exercise and not being properly exercised1 tends to die out4 ,small wonder that the child nourished on such pappy food acquires the habit of bolting it1 and learns to reject hard1 coarse foods in favor of the softer kinds2 everything1 nowadays1 must be tender1 pultaceous1 or 'short4' ,the evils resulting from the bolting of this soft food by children and adults alike are of the gravest and most alarming kind4 ,overeating and habitual indigestion are two of them4 ,morbid craving for food not needed is another4 ,it is not improbable that the habitual bolting of food1 by the prolonged irritation to which it gives rise1 may predispose to cancer of the stomach4 ,napoleon was a notoriously fast eater and it is well known that he died from this disease4 ,dr4 ,campbell also agrees with ,sir ,frederick ,treves that the neglect of the mastication of food is a potent cause of appendicitis4 ,solid lumps1 especially in the case of such articles as pineapple1 preserved ginger1 nuts1 tough meat and lobster1 are apt to pass beyond the pylorus and1 escaping intestinal digestion1 to lodge in the ccum and precipitate an attack of that dreaded disease1 the most common predisposing cause of which is a loaded ccum1 often preceded by constipation4 ,summing up his extremely valuable paper on the ,evils of ,insufficient ,mastication1 ,dr4 ,campbell comes to the conclusion that an appalling amount of misery and suffering may be saved by the simple expedient of inculcating the habit of efficient mastication4 ,it is difficult to teach an old dog new tricks4 ,i have noticed again and again how hard it is to teach adults to ,fletcherize4 ,they begin it1 find it irksome at first1 and drop it4 ,for thorough reform we must begin with infants2 but adults cannot be urged too strongly to persevere till the habit--like that of breathing--becomes automatic4 ,the rewards in increased health and enjoyment of life and work are glorious4 ,,epicurean ,,delights ,,from ,,plain ,,food4 ,to return to ,fletcher's own contributions to this subject4 ,next to his dwelling on the importance of mouth-work he deserves most praise for his remarks on the epicurean delights resulting from slow and rational eating4 ,herein again1 it must be premised1 he was far from being the original discoverer2 but he probably did more to call the general public's attention to the matter than any one else had done1 thanks largely to his habit of introducing vivid illustrations and details of personal experiences4 ,my1 but ,i never realized that potato is so good1 exclaimed the young lady2 and ,gracious6 isn't this corn bully6 echoed the father4 ,these exclamations express the outcome of one of ,mr4 ,fletcher's experiments in teaching others how to get delicious pleasure from the simplest and commonest foods if munched according to his directions4 ,if you bolt your food1 he says1 you get none of the exquisite taste that ,nature's way offers as an allurement for obeying her beneficent demands4 ,the way of ,nature is the epicurean way2 the other way is nothing but piggish gluttony4 ,it is the way of animals2 and ,fletcher named his book ,the ,new ,glutton or ,epicure to call attention to the two ways of taking food4 ,an epicurean cannot be a glutton4 ,there may be gluttons who are less gluttonous than other gluttons1 but epicurism is like politeness and cleanliness1 and is the certain mark of gentility4 ,a remark worthy of the ,french epigrammatists6 ,thackeray called attention to the exquisite enjoyment an epicure can derive from a slice of buttered brown bread4 ,in the same spirit ,fletcher writes3 ,for illustration1 try a ship's biscuit--commonly called hardtack--and keep it in the mouth1 tasting it as you would a piece of sugar1 till it has disappeared entirely1 and note what a treasure of delight there is in it4 ,again3 ,the most nutritious food does not require sauces4 ,it may seem dry and tasteless to the first impression1 but1 as the juices of the mouth get possession of it1 warm it up1 solve its life-giving qualities out of it and coax it into usefulness1 the delight of a newfound delicacy will greet the discoverer4 ,,how ,,flavor ,,helps ,,the ,,stomach4 ,in all cases1 be the food simple or the outcome of a ,french chef's culinary alchemy1 it is its ,flavor that makes it agreeable and by so doing stimulates the flow of the juices necessary for proper digestion4 ,in the case of the mouth and its salivary glands this is obvious to all4 ,everybody knows that the fragrance of good food makes the mouth water4 ,in the case of the stomach1 the connection is much less obvious4 ,until a few years ago even the medical men were in the dark on this extremely important aspect of the question1 although ,french and ,german physiologists had made important discoveries4 ,illustration3 ,a ,french chef's culinary alchemy ,it remained for ,professor ,pawlow of ,st4 ,petersburg to throw the bright light of scientific experiment on this subject4 ,he demonstrated in his ,st4 ,petersburg laboratory that the mere presence of food in a dog's stomach--which is like a man's in that respect--does not suffice to cause a flow of gastric juice1 but that the psychic factor we call appetite--a keen desire for food--causes an abundant flow of that fluid1 without which the digestion cannot proceed4 ,now it might be said that there was really no need of laboratory experiments to tell us that food eaten without enjoyment lies like lead in the stomach and does more harm than good4 ,it is nevertheless a great advantage to have a scientific demonstration of the fact and an explanation of it1 because it encourages us in the right way of eating4 ,instinct showed that way long ago2 it did its best to intimate that food should be eaten with interest and enjoyment4 ,too often1 unfortunately1 no attention has been paid to this instinct4 ,among the ,russians 7who do not1 in this respect1 differ from other peoples7 an absolutely unphysiological indifference towards eating often exists1 ,professor ,pawlow says4 ,in wider circles of the community a due conception of the importance of eating should be disseminated4 ,how often do the people who have charge of the commissariat pay attention solely to the nutritive value of the food1 or place a higher value on everything else than taste6 ,yet it is the taste 7,flavor7 of food that arouses the appetite4 ,as the ,french say1 the appetite comes while we are eating4 ,medical men of various countries in former times paid special attention to the restoration of a patient's appetite4 ,in more recent text books less attention is paid to appetite as a symptom2 but ,prof4 ,pawlow's experiments have again1 and for all time1 demonstrated its importance4 ,those young ladies who think it is nice and feminine to pretend to have no appetite should read the ,pawlow papers1 and have all that nonsense knocked out of their heads4 ,a poor appetite is a danger signal--a thing to arouse pity and to be cured1 just like a headache or a fever4 ,appetite juice is one of the suggestive names ,professor ,pawlow gives to the fluid which digests food in the stomach4 ,there is little or none of it for the man who eats without noticing his food1 unable to distract his thoughts from his work1 as so often happens to those who live in the midst of the incessant turmoil of large cities4 ,this inattention to the act of eating 7to the ,flavor of the food7 prepares the way for digestive disturbances with all the various diseases following them4 ,no medical treatment can help such a patient--unless he reforms and eats rationally4 ,thus1 the studies of ,dr4 ,pawlow fully bear out my contention as to the ,vital ,importance of ,flavor in ,food4 ,illustration3 ,an ,american quick-lunch ,there is one more of his observations to which superlative importance attaches4 ,one of his experiments on dogs showed that if food was given gradually in small quantities1 it led to the secretion of much stronger gastric juice than when the animal was allowed to eat the whole ration at once4 ,this was a laboratory demonstration of the wisdom of the best medical treatment of a weak stomach2 and such a regulation of diet1 continues the professor1 is all the more necessary1 since1 in the commonest disorders of the stomach1 only the surface layers of the mucous membrane are affected4 ,it may1 consequently1 happen that the sensory surface of the stomach1 which should take up the stimulus of the chemical excitant1 is not able to fulfil its duty1 and the period of chemical secretion1 which ordinarily lasts for a long time1 is for the most part disturbed1 or even wholly absent4 ,a strong psychic excitation1 a keen feeling of appetite1 may evoke the secretory impulse in the central nervous system and send it unhindered to the glands which lie in the deeper as yet unaffected layers of mucous membrane4 ,doubtless the very interesting physiological detail here pointed out by the eminent ,russian professor1 explains the dietetic as well as gastronomic wisdom of the old fashioned table d'hte of the ,european hotels4 ,half a dozen or more courses follow one another leisurely in course of an hour or more during which the pleasant ,flavor of one dish after another keeps the appetite on edge and gives plenty of time for the deeper as well as the surface layers of the glands to secrete their beneficent and comforting digestive juices4 ,from such a leisurely dinner1 with courses skilfully made up of contrasting flavors to prevent the appetite from flagging1 we rise cheerful and at peace with all the world1 whereas an ,american quick-lunch1 or a railroad dinner gulped down in ten minutes makes us feel like swearing off eating for all time4 ,,an ,,amazing ,,blunder4 ,how far we have traveled away from that foolish1 nay1 criminal ,puritan notion that enjoyment of the pleasures of the table is a reprehensible form of sensual indulgence--the notion which made ,walter ,scott's father pour hot water into the soup because the boy liked it6 ,that attitude was a blunder1 a huge blunder1 as the preceding pages prove4 ,a still bigger blunder1 and one equally deplorable and mischievous1 now claims our attention--a blunder so amazing1 so incomprehensible that it seems almost incredible3 the universal belief1 among men of science as well as the laity1 that the pleasures of the table come to us through the sense of taste4 ,how ,i happened to discover that this notion is a blunder1 ,i now beg the reader's permission to relate briefly4 ,in #ahgh ,harvard ,university rewarded me for my hard work in the philosophical department 7under ,professors ,bowen and ,palmer7 by giving me the ,harris ,fellowship1 which enabled me to continue my study of physiological and comparative psychology for three years at the universities of ,germany4 ,i recall vividly my boyish delight in the pleasures of the senses of sight1 hearing1 and smell4 ,during my college course and afterwards ,i diligently studied the phenomena of these senses in man and animals in all the books and scientific papers ,i could find2 and thus it came about that my first magazine articles were on the sthetic ,value of ,odors1 and ,the ,development of the ,color ,sense4 ,the first of these was accepted by ,w4 ,d4 ,howells1 for the ,atlantic ,monthly 7,december1 #ahhj72 the second1 by ,alfred ,russell ,wallace1 for ,macmillan's ,magazine 7,london1 ,december1 #ahgi74 ,i mention these things to show that the senses of man and animals have been a subject of special interest with me for more than four decades1 and that when ,i went to ,germany1 ,i took up the study of them not as an amateur but as one prepared 7as well as eager7 to make original researches4 ,my most ardent desire was to work in the laboratories of the ,university of ,berlin under ,professor ,helmholtz1 whose monumental books on the sensations of tone and on the phenomena of sight had revealed so many secrets to the world of science4 ,unfortunately he was not lecturing on those subjects at that time4 ,moreover1 reperusal of his books made me feel as if he had covered all the most interesting ground4 ,i therefore looked about for a region in which ,i could do some exploring on my own account1 and soon found it in the functions of the senses of smell and taste4 ,concerning these two senses1 the most absurdly incorrect notions were current at that time even among leaders in science4 ,grant ,allen1 known as the ,st4 ,paul of ,darwinism1 voiced the current biological opinion when he wrote that with man smell survives with difficulty as an almost functionless relic2 and ,darwin himself wrote that this sense is of extremely slight service to man4 ,the king of ,german philosophers1 ,kant1 who was an epicure1 maintained that smell is the least important of our senses1 and that it is not worth while to cultivate it4 ,nay1 the king of epicures1 ,brillat-,savarin1 wrote a famous book the very title of which1 ,physiology of ,taste1 is a scientific blunder4 ,like everybody else1 he believed in the existence of an infinite variety of tastes1 and never suspected that1 with the exception of sweet1 sour1 salt and bitter1 all our countless gastronomic delights come to us through the sense of smell4 ,a ,,new ,,psychology ,,of ,,eating4 ,the ,french physiologist ,longet and the ,german anatomist ,henle were1 so far as ,i could find1 the only experts who had an inkling of the gastronomic importance of the sense of smell2 but they did not go so far as to formulate the theory ,i have just expressed in italics4 ,my experiments showed me that not only is it impossible1 with the nose clasped 7or closed by a cold71 to tell the difference between various kinds of meats1 or cheeses1 or cakes1 or vegetables1 but also--which no one had ever pointed out--that even in the case of sweet and sour substances which do gratify the palate1 the sense of smell is much more important than the sense of taste4 ,vinegar1 for example1 is absolutely uninteresting unless it has a bouquet--the aroma of the cider1 wine1 or malt of which it is made4 ,and why is it that we are willing to pay from five to twenty times as much for candy as for plain sugar8 ,because the sugar appeals only to the taste1 whereas the candy is usually perfumed with the aroma of sarsparilla1 wintergreen1 vanilla1 chocolate1 and a hundred other flavoring ingredients the fragrance of which we enjoy by exhaling through the nose while eating it4 ,the emphasis lies on the word exhaling4 ,it is considered a breach of etiquette to smell of things at the table in the ordinary way1 because it implies a doubt as to the freshness of the food4 ,but there is a second way of smelling of which most persons are unconscious1 although they practise it daily4 ,anatomy shows that only a small portion of the mucous membrane which lines the nostrils is the seat of the endings of the nerves of smell4 ,in ordinary expiration the air does not touch this olfactory region4 ,but when we eat in the right way we unconsciously guide the air impregnated with the ,flavors of the food we are munching1 into that region1 and that is the way we enjoy our food4 ,we do this unconsciously1 ,i say2 but now try and do it consciously1 guiding the expired air very slowly through the nose1 and your enjoyment of a meal will be quintupled4 ,obviously ,kant made the mistake of his life when he said the sense of smell was not worth cultivating4 ,it not only provides us with additional table pleasures1 the hygienic and tonic value of which has been sufficiently dwelt upon1 but it is a fact of unspeakable importance that the more we educate the nose1 the more discriminating we make it1 and the more stubbornly therefore we insist on having wholesome food only4 ,this new psychology of eating ,i set forth for the first time in the ,contemporary ,review 7,london1 ,november1 #ahhh71 under the title of ,the ,gastronomic ,value of ,odors4 ,it was commented on as a psychological curiosity1 but otherwise attracted little attention4 ,at that time there was not the same general interest that there is now in the food question4 ,even ,gladstone's directions regarding eating were more frequently smiled at than followed4 ,since his day many things have happened to give the food question an aspect of superlative importance1 particularly the wholesale adulterations described in the preceding pages4 ,that among those who have helped to awaken the public to a realizing sense of the importance of this subject no one deserves more credit than ,mr4 ,fletcher--who has been immortalized in the dictionaries by the inclusion of the verb to ,fletcherize--has been stated before4 ,so beneficent1 on the whole1 has been his influence that ,i hesitate to point out any of his mistakes2 but as some of them obscure the truth1 ,i will do so4 ,he first made public his views1 in a crude form1 eleven years after the appearance of my article on the gastronomic value of odors4 ,that article anticipates some important details of his doctrines1 but he evidently never saw it1 because in his books he makes only one brief reference to the sense of smell and perpetuates all the old errors regarding that insolent pretender1 the sense of taste4 ,this is to be regretted1 for it left his followers groping in the dark as to the best way of getting the most pleasure and benefit out of their food1 at home and at their munching parties4 ,there is one detail of ,fletcherism which every epicure will fight with his last drop of ink4 ,if we all followed his example1 living on griddle cakes1 butter1 and syrup 7at a cost of eleven cents a day71 or some other equally simple menu1 as he advises1 what would become of that delectable variety which is the spice of gastronomy1 and what of the farmers1 and the hundreds of industries which supply this variety8 ,true gastronomic progress1 ,i maintain1 lies in the direction of multiplying the pleasures of the table--an important phase of our subject which will be discussed in a later chapter4 ,we must now turn the limelight once more on ,ungastronomic ,america4 ,illustration ,,iii ,,our ,,denatured ,,foods ,bearing in mind the superlative importance to our well-being of ,flavor in the food we eat1 the reader is now in a position to appreciate the full force of a third indictment to be brought against those who spoil our food4 ,the first indictment was that they use chemical preservatives which arrest digestion and often act as cumulative poisons2 the second1 that they use chemicals which enable unscrupulous persons to sell foods made of nauseating and dangerous raw material1 so disguised as to fool the buyer4 ,the culprits now to be arraigned are those who1 from ignorance1 indolence1 or greed to get rich quick1 adopt devices which spoil the ,flavor of our food and thus destroy our appetite and undermine the health of the community4 ,denatured is the word used for alcohol that has been made unfit to drink by the addition of chemicals1 and denatured is hardly too strong a word to apply to many if not most of the foods offered in the ,american markets and stores1 the offense being aggravated by the fact that the prices usually asked for these are quite as high as those asked for foods preserved by the wholesome old condimental methods1 although the cost to the maker is only a fraction of what it would be if those methods were followed4 ,palatable1 appetizing smoked bacon and hams are still to be found in our markets by those who know a thing or two1 and sternly insist on getting what they ask for2 but for the vast majority of consumers smoked meats have disappeared4 ,meats lose weight--up to #bj per cent4--during the process of smoking1 and therefore bring the dealer less profit4 ,what he offers is usually denatured--unappetizing and indigestible4 ,the same holds true of smoked fish1 which used to make an epicure's mouth water4 ,why it does so no longer is shown by the following paragraphs from ,philadelphia1 printed in the ,new ,york ,evening ,post3 ,fish ,was ,dyed1 not ,smoked ,the dairy and food bureau of the ,state ,agricultural ,department has discovered that a large number of delicatessen and other stores of this city have been for a long time selling dyed fish as a substitute for smoked fish4 ,when ,harry ,p4 ,cassidy1 the agent of the bureau told the retail store proprietors what they were doing1 they were surprised1 as they had purchased the stuff as genuine smoked fish4 ,cassidy's attention to the food article was attracted by its rich red color4 ,purchasing some1 he had it examined1 and the expert reported that he could dye wool with the coloring matter extracted from it4 ,in smoking fish there is a loss of fifteen pounds to every hundred1 it is said1 but in dyeing there is no loss at all4 ,this permitted the violators of the law to undersell their competitors in the smoked fish industry4 ,nor is our fresh fish usually more palatable4 ,new ,york1 for instance1 ought to be a paradise of fish eaters1 yet how seldom is it served in prime condition1 even in leading restaurants6 ,in ,germany they have various ways of bringing fish to market alive1 even in interior towns2 over here they are kept in cold storage for weeks1 months--indeed years1 although fish deteriorates by this process much more rapidly than even poultry--of which more anon2 and everybody knows that the poorest kind of fish just out of the water is better than the best kind after it has been out a day or two4 ,were we a gastronomic nation we would rise in revolt against the wholesale denaturing of our food to be presently described in more detail4 ,we should insist on always having real ,french or ,german-style bread1 with crisp1 tasty crust1 refusing the soggy loaves made of bleached1 bolted flour robbed of its nutritious phosphates and sources of ,flavor2 refusing also the machine-polished rice deprived of its nutritious outer parts1 in which lies the delicate ,flavor of this cereal1 leaving it pretty to look at1 but1 as one of the ,government's agricultural experts1 ,david ,fairchild1 has forcibly expressed it1 as tasteless as the paste that a paper-hanger brushes on his rolls of wallpaper4 ,we should exclude the chemically greened teas dumped into our groceries because they are not wanted in any other country4 ,we should protest against the peaches and pears and other fruits formerly brought into our markets soft1 sun-ripened1 luscious1 but now offered to us hard1 unripe1 flavorless4 ,the melancholy list of gastronomic misdeeds might be prolonged indefinitely4 ,in all these cases1 let me emphasize this fact once more1 that what is eliminated from the food is its very soul1 its precious ,flavor1 which makes it appetizing and enjoyable and therefore digestible4 ,we allow covetous or ignorant manufacturers as well as incompetent or indolent cooks to spoil our naturally good food because we do not as a nation1 realize that on its pleasurableness depend our health and comfort1 our happiness and capacity for hard work1 more than perhaps on anything else--a point which cannot be emphasized too often4 ,now for a few details1 beginning with the treatment to which our poultry is subjected1 which has long been a national calamity and a scandal of the first order4 ,,foul ,,fowl4 ,perhaps more than anything else1 what makes us stand before the world as a deplorably ungastronomic nation is our tolerance of the tainted1 unpalatable1 cold-storage poultry served in public eating places as well as in private houses in nine cases out of ten4 ,we spent the months of ,may to ,september1 #aiab1 in ,europe1 traveling in ,france1 ,switzerland1 ,italy1 ,germany1 and ,england4 ,nearly every day we ate chicken1 or some other kind of poultry and not once did we have any that was in the least like our cold-storage fowls2 everything was fresh1 sweet1 juicy1 and appetizing4 ,again and again ,i said to my wife1 or she to me3 ,i wish we could get such chicken in ,new ,york6 ,an ,american lady of wealth said to me a few years ago that one of the reasons why she went to ,europe every summer was that she liked good things to eat and could get them so much more easily and regularly abroad--particularly butter1 and her favorite dish1 chicken4 ,she knew of the poulet de ,bresse--that explained it all4 ,i shall never forget1 though ,i live another half-century1 my first taste of that particular brand of fowl4 ,i had arrived at one of the leading ,paris hotels too late for the table d'hte1 and thinking ,i was not hungry1 ordered nothing but a portion of chicken and a bowl of salad4 ,the waiter brought an enormous portion1 and ,i had hardly tasted it when ,i found ,i was ravenously hungry4 ,not a shred of it was left4 ,the delicious taste of that sort of fancy poultry is due in part to the particular breed1 but more still to the use of special kinds of food which give a rich and delicate flavor to the flesh1 as the so-called wild celery of the ,chesapeake ,bay does in the case of our best ducks and turtles4 ,nature provides our canvasback and redhead ducks and terrapin--not too bountifully1 it is true--but when it comes to mortal man's treatment1 in this country1 of the poultry that has to take the place of the formerly abundant game1 what do we see8 ,a state of affairs that would not be tolerated one week on the ,european continent4 ,it is officially estimated that from #ge to #ij per cent4 of all the poultry produced in the ,united ,states is preserved in cold storage for months1 often for years4 ,what is worse still1 only a very small percentage of the fowls which are placed in cold storage are drawn1 the result being that by a physiological process known as osmosis the meat becomes tainted in a most offensive manner4 ,the warehouse men and dealers have for years been fighting furiously against the health boards of various cities and states for the privilege of perpetuating this state of affairs1 which greatly simplifies the poultry business and enables them to sell the entrails of a fowl at the same price per pound as the meat2 but the long-suffering public has at last become thoroughly aroused1 convinced that many obscure disorders of the digestive tract are due to the consumption of undrawn and other cold-storage poultry1 not to speak of the horror of eating such stuff4 ,a young woman informs me that one day she went into a butcher's shop 7in a part of town where prosperous families live7 and ordered a chicken4 ,the butcher took one down1 but when he cut it open such a stench came from it that she stepped back in horror4 ,yet the man tried to persuade her to take it1 remarking3 ,that's all right6 ,just wash it in a solution of borax1 or in vinegar and water and the odor will disappear4 ,this happened in ,new ,york ,city in the year #aiab2 it was not an exceptional case2 thousands of such offensive carcasses are sold in ,american cities daily4 ,nor is it necessary to cut them open to know that they are unfit for food4 ,their greenish1 mummified1 rigid appearance reveals their unpalatable condition4 ,daily1 for years1 as ,i have walked along the streets of ,new ,york and seen these hideous bird corpses brazenly exposed for sale1 ,i have wondered at a community which will tolerate such a thing4 ,as the authors of ,bulletin ,no4 #aae of the ,bureau of ,chemistry#c say1 a careful inspection of cold-storage fowls before cooking would do much to destroy any appetite which might otherwise have been manifested for these birds when cooked4 ,on pages #ajj-aja of his monumental work on foods and their adulteration which should be read by all consumers as well as dealers because of its impartial statement of the case1 ,dr4 ,wiley remarks pertinently that the keeping of chickens with the intestinal contents undisturbed does not appeal to the imagination of the consumer any more than would the freezing of the carcass of a beef or hog with the viscera remaining in it4 ,elsewhere the great reformer put his finger on the most vulnerable and undeniable aspect of the storage business3 ,palatability is one of the elements of wholesomeness1 and we find in cold storage a tremendous decrease in palatability4 ,from this kind of tainted1 unappetizing1 unpalatable chicken to the poulet de ,bresse1 what a long road we have to travel4 ,under present conditions1 as a matter of course1 it makes no difference what we feed our fowls2 all are foul alike1 and will remain so as long as the ,american public remains content to fall so far below the ,european gastronomic level4 ,the packers and dealers1 of course1 laugh at ,dr4 ,wiley's statement that1 under the present scientific methods of production1 poultry can be furnished in a fresh state all the year round 7as it is in ,europe74 ,they do not want it fresh2 they want it in their refrigerators so they can regulate and artificially raise prices4 ,the worst offenders are the men who speculate in storage fowls1 making1 say1 #aj1jjj or #bj1jjj in one day4 ,that enables them to cross the ,atlantic and eat edible chicken in ,paris4 ,the simplest way for the consumer to thwart the conspirators against his appetite and stomach is to buy of genuinely ,kosher butchers1 who by their tenets are not allowed to handle cold-storage fowls2 or direct of the farmer1 with whom an arrangement can be made to send the freshly killed and promptly cleaned poultry to one's home4 ,in this way the total cost does not exceed regular city prices1 and oh6 the difference in the effect on our well-being1 not to speak of getting even with the icemen4 ,the introduction of parcel's post greatly reduced the cost of this method of securing fresh poultry4 ,in ,european countries1 particularly ,france and ,germany1 the parcel's post has done much to eliminate middlemen1 and many thousands of consumers make use of this chance to get provisions fresh and direct from the producer4 ,there are reasons to believe that the present high prices of beef and mutton will never come down again1 but will climb higher still because the former vast grazing-grounds of the ,west are being cut up into farms4 ,but to the raising of chickens there is no limit4 ,by applying the methods of intensive farming the supply can be steadily increased and prices lowered4 ,chicken day is destined to become more and more frequent1 and it is for the consumer to decide whether his chicken dinner shall be appetizing1 enjoyable1 and beneficial1 or remain what it is now in most cases1 a gastronomic calamity4 ,from the point of view of ,flavor1 which is the main theme of the present volume1 this subject is of such importance that a few more pages must be devoted to it4 ,,the ,,french ,,way ,,versus ,,the ,,american4 ,in ,paris one eats the best chicken in the world2 in ,new ,york1 as a rule1 the worst4 ,how do they do it in ,france8 ,the answer will be given in the chapter on ,french ,gastronomic ,supremacy2 here let us anticipate only a few details as supplied to the ,government of the ,united ,states by ,newton ,b4 ,ashby1 special agent of the ,bureau of ,animal ,industry and published in its ,sixteenth ,annual ,report 7#ahii74 ,the ,french1 he notes1 are economic people1 and the system of sending young and immature chickens to market is not practised4 ,the fowls sent to market are from #d to #h months old4 ,they are carefully fed and grown for market instead of being allowed to scavenge4 ,for instance1 the chickens are given clean water instead of being allowed the run of filthy pools and puddles4 ,the method of slaughter1 he goes on to say1 seems to be chiefly by cutting the jugular vein4 ,the fowl is then dry plucked very carefully to prevent tearing the flesh1 and is drawn through the vent4 ,illustration3 ,how they do it in ,france8 ,note those last six words4 ,they show that the ,french do not allow chickens to remain undrawn even one day2 for1 as ,mr4 ,ashby continues1 the fowls are packed the afternoon or evening of the day of slaughter1 and despatched to ,paris by special express train that night4 ,they are due in ,paris before five o'clock in the morning4 ,they are delivered at once to the market1 and are sold on the day of arrival1 so that ,french fowls are generally disposed of in the market within twenty to twenty-four hours after being killed4444 ,in ,july and ,august many ,french fowls come to the market alive4 ,the ,paris markets1 and ,french markets generally1 we are further told1 do not take kindly to foreign poultry or meat4 ,such poultry would of course have to be brought in cold storage1 and what the nation which knows most about eating wants is fresh chicken4 ,foreign poultry is not in demand in ,paris1 because the ,french know and have known for generations that to freeze meat is to spoil it4 ,on this subject ,i shall have some further remarks in a later section on the ,roast ,beef of ,old ,england4 ,now look at the way much of the poultry consumed in ,american cities is gathered4 ,dr4 ,cavana of ,oneida1 ,n4 ,y41 who found no fewer than eleven distinct groups of bacteria in the flesh of a single undrawn fowl1 remarked1 in a lecture delivered in #aijf1 at the ,annual ,convention of ,railway ,surgeons1 that poultry stocks are collected for eastern cities from all parts of the country4 ,he goes on to say that after slaughter the feathers are removed and the carcasses packed in barrels1 generally without further dressing4 ,the head1 feet1 and legs1 as well as the craw of partially digested food1 therefore1 is left in the sealed cavities of the fowls1 forming conditions which force the general infection of the tissues by the flagellated1 or rapidly swimming intestinal bacteria1 which double their quantity and numbers every forty minutes1 a single bacillus being capable of developing over forty-two billion germs in twenty-four hours4 ,their shipments are made by rail and steamship1 and cover transit periods of several days before reaching the cold atmospheres of the storage warehouses4 ,to determine the activity of these germs and the period required for their permeation of the tissues in the slaughtered undrawn fowl1 we caused to be made a series of experiments1 the results of which justify the belief that a great percentage of the infected poultry and game stock in storage became so infected before reaching the low temperature of the storage warehouses4 ,nor does ordinary cold storage destroy the noisome bacteria4 ,they are merely scotched1 to revive and multiply at the first opportunity4 ,one of the principal objections to cold-storage poultry is that after being taken from the storehouse they decompose much more quickly than fresh birds4 ,some dealers aggravate the evil by soaking the poultry when taken out of storage in cold water for the purpose of thawing4 ,this adds to its weight1 to the profit of the dealer1 but it causes heavy bacterial infection1 as ,dr4 ,charles ,harrington1 secretary of the ,massachusetts ,board of ,health1 has pointed out4 ,dr4 ,pennington1 in an article on ,changes in ,chickens in ,cold ,storage1 to which we shall recur1 refers to a case in which a frozen fowl1 after being immersed in water1 had increased in weight eleven per cent4 7to the dealer's profit74 ,in ,bulletin #add of the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture we read3 ,under precisely the same conditions of temperature and humidity1 drawn fowls will keep from twenty to thirty days longer than those not drawn4 ,the presence of undigested food and of excrementitious substances in animals which have been killed most certainly favors the tainting of the flesh and general decomposition4 ,the viscera are the first parts to show putrescence1 and allowing these to remain within the body cannot do otherwise than favor infection of the flesh with bacteria and ptomaines1 even if osmosis does not actually carry putrid juices to contiguous tissues4 ,hunters know the value of drawing birds as soon as possible after they have been shot1 in order to keep them fresh and sweet and to prevent their having a strong intestinal flavor4 ,read also the following weighty remarks reprinted from ,senate ,report ,no4 #aiia1 ,march #bb1 #aijf3 ,the process of decomposition and putrefaction begins at once after the death of the animal4 ,cold storage and freezing may limit the rotting process1 but do not entirely stop it4 ,when poultry or animals are taken from cold storage and are thawed out for exhibition and sale1 the decomposition continues with marked energy1 impregnating the flesh with poisons--and this decomposition is exceedingly rapid even when the poultry is kept in the market or grocery refrigerator1 the temperature of which is much higher than that of the cold-storage warehouse4 ,flesh in which the blood has been permitted to remain is particularly susceptible to such decomposition1 and this susceptibility is increased by the long period of freezing and thawing4 ,even with poultry which is freshly killed there is frequently a period of several days between the time of slaughtering and sale4 ,not only is it dangerous1 but it is repugnant to our sense of decency1 that the flesh we are to eat shall lie for several days in close contact with putrefying animal matter4 ,undoubtedly undrawn poultry1 fish1 and game have caused many cases of poisoning which have been wrongfully attributed to other sources4 ,the poisoning resulting often resembles that caused by other poisons administered by persons or taken with suicidal intent4 ,many sufferers from digestive troubles--headache1 nausea1 colic1 and diarrhea after eating1 owe their ailments to tainted foods4 ,we are advised that the reason for slaughtering poultry without thorough bleeding is the saving in the weight of the fowl1 and this reason is doubtless also one for the storing of poultry and offering it for sale without removing the viscera4 ,there is1 however1 no reason why the consumer should be compelled to purchase a large percentage of excreta1 offal1 and refuse with his poultry4 ,we would not tolerate the addition of a certain percentage of weight in the form of entrails of the steer with each beefsteak we buy4 ,the consumer purposes to buy edible food and not the disgusting waste which should be eliminated in the process of slaughtering and dressing4 ,it is just as reasonable to ask the consumer to buy hogs1 calves1 and lambs without the intestines removed as to solicit his purchase of undrawn turkeys and chickens4 ,,why ,,do ,,we ,,eat ,,poultry8 ,after the appearance1 in ,the ,century ,magazine of ,november1 #aiaa1 of my article on ,ungastronomic ,america1 in which ,i denounced the practice of offering the public undrawn1 cold-storage poultry1 ,i was bombarded with abusive letters from packers and others1 and a periodical1 called ,the ,steward1 fancied that it had completely demolished me by quoting the results obtained by ,dr4 ,mary ,e4 ,pennington1 in collaboration with ,evelyn ,witmer and ,h4 ,c4 ,pierce1 during a series of observations described in a circular entitled ,the ,comparative ,rate of ,decomposition in ,drawn and ,undrawn ,market ,poultry published in #aiaa by the ,department of ,agriculture4 ,this result of these observations was that undrawn poultry decomposes more slowly than does poultry which has been either wholly or partially eviscerated4 ,this statement does not agree with the conclusion reached and printed in the ,bulletin ,no4 #add to which ,i have already referred1 that under precisely the same conditions of temperature and humidity1 drawn fowls will keep from twenty to thirty days longer than those not drawn4 ,this statement is doubtless correct--provided the fowls have been eviscerated in such a way as to keep the cavity absolutely free from contamination4 ,if this is not done1 the drawn fowl will1 for obvious reasons1 spoil even sooner than the undrawn4 ,it is not usually done by the ,american packers2 and the moral is1 not that undrawn fowl is preferable to drawn fowl for packing1 but that these packers should send their men to ,france or ,germany to learn how properly to draw fowls4 ,the consumer1 anyway1 is not interested in keeping qualities4 ,what he wants is chicken that is good to eat1 and the shorter a time it has been kept1 the better for him1 in every way4 ,dr4 ,wiley refers to experiments which have shown the advisability of packing drawn poultry in tin cartons1 carefully closed2 adding that fowls thus treated preserve to a remarkable degree their freshness and palatability4 ,if that degree of freshness and palatibilty is sufficient to satisfy the consumer1 then cold storage has a future4 ,if not1 cold storage is doomed1 for undrawn1 frozen poultry will1 ,i feel sure1 not be eaten much longer by the ,american public4 ,why do we eat poultry1 anyway8 ,surely not merely because we want food4 ,if that were the case1 why waste money on expensive chicken or turkey1 when we could get the same amount of nourishment from many other foods at a mere fraction of the cost8 ,the reason why we eat chicken in preference to those other foods is that we want to enjoy its flavor4 ,and we do not want frozen1 undrawn poultry1 not only because the freezing spoils the flavor but because the leaving of the entrails in the animal makes it unwholesome4 ,one of the main arguments of the packers in favor of leaving fowls undrawn is that they dry out sooner when drawn4 ,a more deadly boomerang it would be difficult to throw4 ,there is only one way in which the drying carcass of a fowl can get its moisture3 from the contents of the entrails4 ,that is what is meant by osmosis4 ,thus out of their own mouths the packers stand convicted of offering the public fowl which is disgustingly tainted4 ,the best part of the fowl--the second joint--gets the taint soonest1 because it lies nearest the intestines4 ,the wings and drumsticks get it last4 ,it is important to know this1 because it explains why experts may differ as to the time it takes to spoil the flavor of a stored bird4 ,usually the process is quite rapid4 ,the whole question of the tainting of meat by osmosis deserves much more attention than it has received4 ,a wild boar has to be eviscerated at once after being killed4 ,if this is not done1 none of the meat is fit to eat except the head--which explains why wild boar's head1 and the head alone--often figures on bills of fare in ,france and ,germany4 ,my wife1 who was brought up in ,southern ,france knew a wealthy silk merchant1 a great hunter in his own domains1 who always promptly removed the entrails of the boars he killed1 before the carcass grew cold1 the consequence being that all the meat was good to eat1 as his friends were given many a chance to find out4 ,for several years some of the ,new ,york butchers have indulged in the custom of exhibiting in their windows the carcasses of lambs with their pelts still on4 ,if a ,paris butcher did that1 the first of his customers coming along would ask him if he didn't know that unless the pelt is taken off at once after killing a mouton1 the meat gets from it a disagreeable sheepy flavor--which is a very different thing from the unique and delicious flavor properly dressed mutton has4 ,perhaps the most striking illustration of the rapid action of osmosis is provided by venison1 which is unfit to eat if the deer has been tortured by a cruel chase4 ,its terror affects the digestive juices1 and the whole body becomes tainted4 ,,is ,,cold ,,storage ,a ,,blessing8 ,in an editorial entitled ,cold ,storage ,hardly a ,blessing the ,new ,york ,times called attention during the holiday season of #aiaa to the fact that the price of cold-storage turkeys was six cents a pound less than that of the fresh-killed birds4 ,this difference of almost #be per cent4 is an admission by the cold-storage people1 forced from them by unalterable public opinion1 that their much-wanted wares are to just about that extent inferior to those which they vociferously declare to be no better4 ,quoting the happy expression that cold-storage fowls taste as if they had been buried and dug up again1 the same writer remarks3 ,none of us really knows how fowls do taste after they have gone through that process4 ,we can imagine the flavor1 however1 and do1 noses helping tongues4 ,were it not for the storage people1 chickens and eggs would come into our markets fresh1 cheap1 and in abundance at the time when they are at their best4 ,but it is precisely when they are at their best and cheapest that the storage men corner the market and hold the goods till they are good no more2 whereupon they sell them at their own prices1 largely increased through gambling4 ,in view of such facts the ,times refers to cold storage as a baleful invention4 ,a baleful invention it certainly is--and a needless one1 too4 ,to quote ,dr4 ,wiley again3 ,poultry is a food product which under the present scientific methods of production can be furnished in a fresh state all the year4 ,the necessity for cold storage1 therefore1 is not so apparent in this case as in that of fruit and other perishable foods4 ,the ,american public1 surely1 will not much longer tolerate the present condition of affairs4 ,there are packers and packers4 ,some are more careful and cleanly in their methods than others2 but cold-storage fowl at its best is more or less denatured1 and at its worst it is worse than denatured1 putting us almost on a level with the ,african ,bushmen who1 when they kill a sheep1 eat the entrails with their contents4 ,i would no more eat such undrawn storage poultry as is placed daily before thousands of my countrymen than ,i would the flesh of a hyena or a vulture4 ,it was estimated that1 in #aiab1 #ge1jjj1jjj worth of poultry was consumed in ,new ,york ,city4 ,of this1 only #a1ejj1jjj represented the business done in live chickens1 and nearly all of this went to the ,kosher butchers of the ,east ,side4 ,surely ,christians cannot afford to be less cleanly than ,hebrews in regard to what they put in their stomachs4 ,the time has come for ,christians to gird up their loins and fight for untainted food on their tables1 too4 ,there is encouragement in the information that in one season #a1ajj more cars of live poultry were shipped to ,new ,york ,city than the season before 7#aiaj71 and that plants were being established near the city for providing poultry freshly slaughtered and dressed4 ,the consumer must1 however1 make sure that the fowls are not only freshly killed but drawn within a few days2 the second joint is sometimes tainted on the second day4 ,butchers and poultry dealers would make friends if they gave up the habit of charging for fowl at so much a pound including the intestines4 ,let them charge more per pound for the meat alone1 refusing under any conditions to have an undrawn bird in their shops1 and the poultry business will soon be doubled1 nay1 quintupled4 ,the fact that fresh fowl costs more than frozen is due to artificial conditions which can be remedied and must be remedied4 ,for the present1 if you cannot afford a six-pound fowl1 try one weighing three pounds4 ,if your dealer understands--as mine understands--that you will not under any circumstances eat a cold-storage bird he will supply a fresh one4 ,what you want is not quantity but quality--particularly the true chicken ,flavor4 ,in the chapter on ,savory ,cooking it will be shown how a few pounds of fresh chicken can be made to yield their delicious flavor to a dish much larger and much cheaper than would be afforded by a fowl double its size cooked in the usual way4 ,in ,europe1 most persons travel third class on the railways because they cannot afford first or second4 ,in this country1 nearly everybody can afford to travel first class4 ,americans are always bound to have the best of everything--if they know how to get it4 ,only in the gastronomic world are they--with the exception of the ,jews--traveling third class--eating third-rate poultry prepared by third-rate cooks4 ,this cannot last4 ,we can afford the best4 ,let us have it4 ,,spoiling ,,the ,,american ,,oyster4 ,nowhere in the world are oysters more abundant than in ,america4 ,nowhere are they cheaper or better4 ,as a rule1 too1 we cook them well1 in various styles2 but in the opinion of most epicures a cooked oyster is an oyster spoiled4 ,its food value in any case1 raw or cooked1 is very small1 and it is chiefly as a relish that those who know how to eat value it4 ,but for years the public has been allowing the men who market oysters to eliminate the very elements which give them relish by soaking them in fresh water1 which makes them bloated1 blonde1 and tasteless4 ,the dealers declare that many consumers demand them that way2 floating makes them bigger4 ,there are such consumers2 they sacrifice quality for quantity2 they know not that usually the best oysters by far are the small brunettes straight from the deep sea2 and they further demonstrate their gastronomic obtuseness by smothering their oysters under several strong condiments1 which in themselves would destroy their delicate1 natural ,flavor4 ,in some of our ,states the government has come to the rescue of the epicure--who is in despair at this wholesale denaturing of his favorite delicacy--by enacting laws against the soaking of oysters because few of the streams in which this is done are free from typhoid and other deadly germs2 but many of us do not feel sure that the health boards 7because of indolence or graft7 exercise the necessary supervision1 and therefore we deprive ourselves of the cheap luxury which ,europeans have most reason to envy us4 ,at banquets1 where everybody used to eat oysters on the half-shell1 it is noticeable how many plates the waiters remove that have not been touched4 ,having thus summed up the indictment1 let us consider a few of the more important details4 ,the ,london ,lancet of ,april #bb1 #aiaa1 had an editorial article on ,shell ,fish and ,disease in which it pointed out that while from the nature of the case the testimony is usually of a very circumstantial kind1 which only becomes convincing in its cumulative aspects1 there are instances on record like the outbreaks following certain banquets in ,southampton and ,portsmouth which admitted of no doubt as to the source of the disease4 ,dr4 ,h4 ,t4 ,bulstrode made a comprehensive report upon enteric fever and gastro-enteritis in ,england to the ,local ,government ,board of ,london1 in #aijf1 in which he showed by means of maps how many of the mussel1 oyster1 and cockle beds were exposed to contamination1 his revelations being1 as the ,lancet remarks1 decidedly disquieting4 ,even in cases where the shellfish were collected from locations relatively remote from contamination by sewage they were likely to be brought back and cleansed on shore much too near the mouths of sewers4 ,england is thus in the same predicament as the ,united ,states1 but that is small comfort for us4 ,in an address before the ,new ,york ,academy of ,sciences delivered by ,dr4 ,george ,a4 ,soper1 ,president of the ,metropolitan ,sewerage ,commission and reported in the ,times of ,march #ad1 #aiaa1 it was pointed out that there are over #ejj sewer outlets discharging into the rivers and harbor of ,new ,york each day a volume of sewage that would fill the channel of the ,east ,river from the ,brooklyn ,bridge to a distance of fifteen miles4 ,new ,york gets many of its oysters from ,jamaica ,bay--about a million bushels a year4 ,the water at this section is heavily polluted1 and to this can no doubt be traced a great part of the typhoid that breaks out in this city4 ,the ,board of ,health has found that #ae per cent4 of all typhoid is due to the eating of polluted shell fish4 ,james ,l4 ,kellogg1 professor of biology in ,williams ,college1 in his admirable book on ,shell ,fish ,industries#d sums up the results of his thorough study of this subject in a chapter on ,bivalves in ,relation to ,disease4 ,it may be stated as a fact1 he says1 that epidemics are sometimes caused by eating uncooked oysters4 ,several times they have been traced directly to that source4 ,the evidence collected on that point in this country and abroad is conclusive4 ,there are four reasons for objecting to the process of floating oysters4 ,the first--the danger of conveying a deadly disease--has been sufficiently dwelt on4 ,let us now consider the second3 ,were all oysters taken from the ocean and not near the mouths of harbors or rivers that bear sewage1 no one need ever hesitate to eat them raw4 ,the trouble lies in the fact that1 as ,professor ,kellogg puts it1 before food mollusca are marketed they are almost invariably placed for a few hours in fresh water to undergo what the oystermen term the drinking process4 ,oysters sold in shell as well as those that have been shucked are usually subjected to the fresh water treatment4 ,to make delays and the cost of transportation as light as possible1 the localities selected for this are almost without exception in harbors or river mouths near large markets4 ,in very many cases such waters bear the sewage of cities of hundreds of thousands of inhabitants4 ,with these facts--which have often been pointed out--before him1 is it necessary to call the reader's attention to the circumstance that even if it had never been proved that oysters can serve as conveyers of deadly diseases1 the process of floating them--that is1 bloating them with sewage--must be condemned as unspeakably vile and disgusting8 ,what aggravates the matter is that oysters have what ,professor ,kellogg calls wonderfully efficient mechanisms for straining dangerous organisms out of the water4 ,several gallons of water every day pass through the gills of every full-grown oyster or clam1 and every solid particle is removed from it and remains in the body4 ,it is thus plain that even if relatively few in the water1 the chances are that a dangerous number of disease organisms will be strained out of it by these shellfish4 ,indeed1 were it not for the fact that most of these disease organisms are destroyed by the digestive fluids of oysters and those who eat them1 there would be vastly more typhoid fever than there is now from the thirty million bushels that are sent to our markets every year from our shore beds4 ,the danger comes from the organisms on the gills1 or on the shell1 which1 in that case1 it is not safe to handle4 ,berlin has its ,rieselfelder--vast meadows and gardens made fertile with the city's sewage4 ,this liquid sewage is subjected to such thorough chemical treatment that ere it reaches its destination it is perfectly harmless4 ,when the ,rieselfelder were opened1 the city fathers had such confidence in their chemist that they ceremoniously drank some of this water4 ,it was a disgusting1 though perfectly safe thing to do4 ,the eating of our sewage-bloated oysters is both disgusting and unsafe4 ,cleanliness is next to godliness is a motto which it is even more important to apply to the inside of the body than to the outside4 ,after this demonstration of the dangers and the filthiness of the process of floating oysters1 it is needless to advance further arguments4 ,but in order to complete the rout of the floaters--who have long fought so fiercely for the privilege of spoiling the ,american oyster--reference must be made to the two other indictments against them1 because of the interest and importance attaching to them4 ,one is moral and legal2 the other1 gastronomic4 ,dr4 ,wiley sums up the two in one sentence3 ,not only does it 7floating7 deceive the customer in regard to the size of the oyster but it deprives the oyster of its proper taste and flavor4 ,osmosis comes into play in floating1 as he further points out3 ,by this process the body of the oyster affects a plumpness and largeness which materially increases its selling qualities1 as it increases its weight and size and1 therefore1 the profits of the dealer4 ,the principle of this process depends upon the fact that when a soft substance like an oyster1 containing a mineral salt in its composition1 is brought in contact with water1 a process of diffusion takes place which is known in chemical physics as osmosis1 whereby water passes through the cell walls and enters the cells of the oyster and the mineral substance thereof is forced out into the external water4 ,larger volumes of water pass into the cells than accompany the particles of mineral matter to the outside of the cells and the result is a swelling of the oysters and consequent increase in the size and weight by the addition of pure water1 but at the expense of the natural salt1 mostly chloride of sodium or common salt1 which the oyster contains4 ,thus does science confirm and explain the epicure's perception that oysters are denatured by being soaked in fresh water--deprived of the tang of the sea1 which tang to any one who knows anything about the art of eating constitutes ninety-five per cent4 of the value of an oyster4 ,there are exceptions to my statement that small oysters are the best4 ,some epicures prefer the large1 adult ,lynnhavens to the small ,blue ,points2 and the ,lynnhavens certainly are among the finest in flavor4 ,but men who do prefer the naturally large oysters1 or oysters that have been legitimately fattened in salt water1 ought to be the first to fiercely resent the floating which is done to deceive them as to the real size of the oysters they pay for1 and gives them denatured oysters1 bloated and sickened with sewage water4 ,three centuries ago ,massachusetts boasted oysters a foot in length1 and in ,maine a shell has been found measuring three inches over a foot4 ,we need not worry1 however1 at the decreased size of our bivalves2 it makes them more tender--though1 to be sure1 also less nutritious4 ,in any case1 however1 the nutritive value of an oyster is so insignificant as to be practically negligible4 ,how ludicrously small it is1 is shown by ,dr4 ,wiley4 ,for one hundred pounds of shelled oysters1 he says1 only about ten pounds of meat are found4 ,in ten pounds of the meat there is over #hj per cent4 of water2 so that the actual nourishment contained in #ajj pounds of oysters is reduced to a little over one pound6 ,could anything more triumphantly demonstrate the comparative importance of ,flavor over nutriment in this1 the most delicious of all sea foods8 ,yet it is to this all-important ,flavor that our dealers show such brutal indifference1 not only in the various ways pointed out in the preceding pages but in other ways4 ,for instance1 oysters spoil even more rapidly than fish and should therefore be kept alive to the last possible moment before serving4 ,yet how lamentably seldom is this done6 ,it can be done not only in cities on the coast1 but in those of the interior1 it being possible to keep oysters alive and in excellent state for consumption for a week or ten days or even longer4 ,it would be unjust to the oystermen to accuse them of perpetrating all their crimes against shellfish from sheer greed for extra gain4 ,ignorance also comes into play4 ,only one opener in fifty seems to know that the best thing by far about an oyster is the liquid in its shell4 ,watch the other forty-nine and you will see them wantonly wasting this precious1 fragrant liquid1 and in many cases they will serve the oyster on the flat shell1 so that you get no juice at all4 ,always ask for them on the deep shell and don't be afraid1 after you have transferred the morsel to your mouth to drink the liquid from the shell4 ,it may not look elegant1 but elegance be hanged6 ,dealers who wish to get rich quick by creating an unprecedented demand for oysters with the real tang of the sea should bear all these things in mind and further prepare themselves by reading pages #aeh to #afd of ,dr4 ,wiley's ,foods and their ,adulteration4 ,then let them remember that honesty is the only profitable policy4 ,the public is not in a mood to be fooled and trifled with any longer4 ,in the autumn of #aiab ,dr4 ,wiley called attention 7in ,good ,housekeeping for ,november7 to the important fact that under present conditions not only is it seldom safe to eat raw oysters1 but that they are particularly risky in two of the ,r months--,september and ,october--because of the danger of pollution due to the crowding at the seashore1 which is becoming greater and greater as the summers wear on1 many of the resorts being near beds in which oysters thus become sewage-contaminated even before they are floated by dealers4 ,in ,september1 #aiab1 the ,bureau of ,chemistry published its ,bulletin #aef on ,sewage ,polluted ,oysters as a ,cause of ,typhoid and other ,gastro-,intestinal ,disturbances1 by ,george ,w4 ,stiles1 ,jr41 ,chief of the ,bacteriological ,laboratory4 ,he reviews the literature on the subject1 showing how in many cases epidemics of typhoid and other diseases were traced to the eating of raw shellfish1 and then relates how1 with a detective ingenuity worthy of a ,sherlock ,holmes or a ,burns1 seventeen cases of typhoid and eighty-three cases of gastro-enteritis following a banquet held at ,goshen1 ,n4 ,y41 in ,october1 #aiaa1 were traced directly to eating ,rockaway oysters floated at ,indian ,creek1 and twenty-six other cases1 ten of them typhoid1 were traced to the eating of ,rockaways1 some of which came from the same lot furnished for the ,goshen banquet4 ,the ,rockaway oysters thus got a black eye1 but if perhaps the worst offenders1 they are by no means the only ones4 ,all the oysters of ,new ,york ,bay1 ,narragansett ,bay1 and the ,potomac ,river1 the waters near ,norfolk1 ,va41 and the mouth of the ,james ,river1 the mouths of the ,connecticut and ,merrimac ,rivers1 and other industrial streams1 and the continental border of ,long ,island ,sound1 are open to suspicion1 says ,dr4 ,wiley1 and should not be eaten raw4 ,more and more1 too1 will object to eating them cooked4 ,boiled filth does not appeal to the imagination4 ,the plain and distressing truth is that our great shell fish business1 the pride of ,gastronomic ,america1 will be ruined altogether unless the barbarous custom of discharging the sewage matter of cities and villages into rivers and the ocean is stopped4 ,it seems incredible that we1 with our incalculable wealth1 should be so far behind ,europeans1 especially ,germans1 in this matter of keeping our sea food clean and edible4 ,the disposal of sewage matter after ,german methods is the most important problem now before the ,american public1 more important by far than tariff questions1 warships1 irrigation projects and ,panama canals4 ,typhoid fever could be reduced to a minimum were the sewage disposed of scientifically as it is in some ,german and ,english cities4 ,the startling assertion that in #aiji there were more cases of typhoid in the ,united ,states than of plague in ,india was made by ,dr4 ,allan ,j4 ,mc,laughlin1 of the ,united ,states ,public ,health ,service at a meeting in ,new ,york1 ,december #e1 #aiab1 of the ,association of ,life ,insurance ,presidents4 ,the typhoid fever rate per #ajj1jjj is1 in ,berlin1 only #b4i2 in ,london it is #c4c2 in ,vienna1 #c4h4 ,in ,boston it is #aa4c2 in ,new ,york1 #aa4f2 in ,chicago1 #ac4g2 in ,philadelphia1 #ag4e2 in ,washington1 #bc4b2 while in ,milwaukee and ,minneapolis it rises to #de4g and #eh4g respectively4 ,the annual loss to the country from these fever cases is put at #ajj1jjj1jjj4 ,,smoked ,,ham1 ,,bacon1 ,,and ,,fish4 ,some ,americans have an inexplicable prejudice--which1 however1 is fast disappearing--against fresh pork and against sausages1 but bacon and ham are relished universally1 and it is therefore of national importance that they should be made appetizing4 ,but they fare as badly as our bivalves and our fowls4 ,time was when a crisp slice of bacon would give zest to a whole breakfast1 but the bacon served now in nineteen cases out of twenty has no more flavor than sawdust2 it is eaten without pleasure1 and therefore burdens the stomach for hours4 ,virginia ham has maintained its supremacy and there are a few packers of other hams and bacon who uphold a high standard2 but most of them have succumbed to the temptation of curing their pork products with cheap preservatives which denature them1 making them as flavorless as floating makes the oysters1 and cold storage the poultry4 ,has the reader ever spent a summer in a farmhouse and casually come into a corner of the woodshed where smoked hams were suspended from the rafters8 ,if so1 he will remember the appetizing fragrance which suddenly made his mouth water and make him long for breakfast4 ,some persons think they do not like smoked meats2 but they almost invariably do when they thus come across the real thing4 ,illustration3 ,where smoked hams were suspended from the rafters ,smoke is not only the best of all preservatives1 it is also the most valuable of condiments1 imparting to meats or fish a delicate aroma without altering their natural flavor4 ,a famous ,austrian physiologist1 ,professor ,brcke1 pointed out many years ago that smoked meats are more digestible than fresh meats2 but he did not give the reason1 which is that the delicate yet penetrating ,flavor added by the smoke creates an appetite and thus causes a flow of digestive juices to the stomach4 ,the ,american consumer is now usually deprived of this healthful condiment and wholesome pleasure because those who handle pork products have discovered that they can save much time1 trouble1 and money by soaking them1 as just intimated1 in cheap solutions of chemicals instead of smoking them in the old-fashioned way1 carefully and slowly4 ,farmers are busy folk and therefore naturally eager to learn ways of lessening their labors4 ,they consequently succumb readily on reading an alluring advertisement like the following1 clipped from a paper published in a ,western village3 ,smoke ,your ,meat ,with a ,brush ,there's a new and better way of smoking meat4 ,you accomplish in but a trifle of time all that you can by the tedious old fashioned process4 ,your meat will be hard and firm1 it will be protected from all germs and insects and it will have a more delicate flavor than if smoked in the old way4 ,use ,brown's ,condensed ,smoke ,it contains all the preservative elements of the smoke1 without the rank1 disagreeable elements4 ,you simply apply it with a brush or sponge1 giving the meat one or two coats1 and the smoking is done4 ,price #ge;c4 ,in ,england1 also1 long famed for its deliciously flavored smoked hams and bacon1 the farmers and packers have been approached by the tempter4 ,a case in point1 says the ,lancet of ,february #e1 #aiaj1 is seen in a rapid method of making hams1 bacon1 and certain fishes appear to be smoked by applying to them a fluid called 'smoke essence4' ,is it straight dealing1 it asks1 to call an article painted over with smoke essence smoked8 ,we had occasion recently1 this leading medical journal continues1 to examine a specimen of smoke essence in the laboratory1 and the results of the analysis were interesting4 ,we found it to consist chiefly of creosote1 analine dye1 and a salt of iron4 ,even if such a mixture is harmless that fact does not justify leading a consumer to suppose that a bloater1 a tongue1 a rasher of bacon or ham1 treated by this simple process1 had been adequately cured by the operation well known as 'smoking4' ,there can be no question at all that the color is added to complete the disguise1 and we feel bound to admire the ingenuity of the inventor of a mixture who puts into it a salt of iron which is calculated to give a side of bacon an appearance of natural rustiness4 ,in conclusion1 the ,lancet expresses its regret that such matters as these affecting the purity of the food supply were not strongly dealt with when the ,departmental ,committee on ,food ,preservatives and ,coloring ,matters issued its recommendations nearly a decade previously4 ,it is passing strange how patiently the average ,englishman1 and still more the average ,american1 allows himself to be fooled by food manipulators whose chief aim is to save time1 trouble1 and expense4 ,the familiar definition of genius as a capacity for taking pains is incorrect1 but such a capacity is certainly necessary for the production of the best foods1 including bacon and ham4 ,we ,americans1 speaking collectively1 lack it and that is one of the main reasons why we must be branded as an ungastronomic nation4 ,a striking illustration of the importance the ,bohemians1 for instance1 attach to such matters is found in the village of ,wallern1 where a coperative society has been formed for the sole purpose of getting meats smoked in the best possible manner1 with beech wood4 ,the point ,i wish to call special attention to is that the pork products in this model house are smoked1 according to the size of the pieces1 for a period of two to three months4 ,in a recent ,american book on pigs these directions are given3 ,if the hams are to be smoked they should be hung in the smoke stoves at least three days4 ,three days6 ,in ,germany and ,austria1 where the world-famed ,westphalian and ,prager hams are cured1 six weeks is the minimum time for a good article4 ,the maximum1 for the highest-priced hams1 is three months4 ,we are now in a position to understand why so many ,americans imagine they do not like smoked meats4 ,they have in mind either such meats as have been chemically smoked1 miles away from any smoke house or stove1 or such as have been actually smoked1 but too briefly1 or in too strong smoke4 ,dealers have slyly taken advantage of the naturally growing aversion to smoked meats4 ,slightly ,smoked is a label one often sees now1 and ere long1 if not checked they will have the audacity to say to a housewife asking for smoked ham or fish or bacon that they have none in stock1 there being so little demand for it4 ,that is the way many of the best things are crowded out of the market4 ,in conclusion1 let me whisper in the reader's ear the secret why those who handle pork products and fish are so eager to get rid of the smoke house that during the process of smoking the ham and bacon may lose up to twenty per cent4 of its weight4 ,but why does the dealer not charge more1 to make up for loss of weight8 ,he does1 dear ,madam4 ,he charges more every year and saves the full weight1 too1 by avoiding the smoke house4 ,the joke is on you4 ,he will do this as long as you meekly tolerate it4 ,he will tell you with a look of injured innocence that you are the first one to complain--and perhaps you are1 though merely one of many thousands who have been fooled4 ,as ,i have said1 there are exceptions4 ,a few firms are selling real smoked ham and bacon1 and they are coining money4 ,others will perhaps find out ere long that it pays better to please the public than to fool it4 ,at present1 the outlook seems hopeless4 ,some years ago1 when there were still a few dealers left who did not try to get rich quick at the expense of your stomach and health1 ,i used to lunch often on smoked fish4 ,but in the year #aiab you could not--at least ,i could not--get a genuine smoked fish for love or money4 ,one day in ,december1 ,i walked into a delicatessen store in which ,i saw through the window a plateful of whitefish1 a variety which is particularly good smoked4 ,they were choice specimens1 but after a sniff at them ,i beat a retreat with1 ,i presume1 a disgusted expression4 ,what's the matter with those fish8 asked the dealer4 ,they are a first-class article4 ,fine fish1 ,i retorted1 but they are not smoked4 ,they may not be smoked enough4444 ,they are not smoked at all1 ,i interrupted1 they are chemically preserved and dyed to save weight4 ,you seem to know more about it than ,i do1 he said4 ,i certainly do1 ,i answered3 ,if they were smoked ,i would take a dozen of them4 ,fancy the situation--to be unable1 in the second largest city of the world1 to get smoked fish6 ,i have tried dozens of places1 always with the same result4 ,if others refused to buy the denatured stuff offered1 smoked fish would soon be in the market again4 ,the best foreign methods of smoking meats are described in ,no4 #cfee of the ,daily ,consular and ,trade ,reports 7,washington1 ,december #h1 #aiji74 ,fortunes are in store for all ,american packers who will follow those methods and advertise honestly3 ,we give our pigs clean food1 feeding a fine flavor into our hams and bacon2 we do not destroy this flavor with chemical preservatives but intensify its appetizing qualities by the use of beechwood smoke4 ,where beechwood or hickory1 oak1 or maple are not available1 corn cobs make a cheap and satisfactory substitute4 ,,flavor ,,in ,,butter4 ,on every table in the land1 except that of the very poor1 there is one article which appears two or three times a day all the year round1 and that article is butter4 ,more than #cjj1jjj1jjj worth of it is consumed every year in the ,united ,states4 ,one would therefore suppose that the public would insist with all its might and main on having its butter good4 ,it does no such thing1 but meekly accepts the indifferent and often vile stuff offered by dealers--an unpalatable lubricator which ,i would no more think of eating than ,i would axle grease4 ,a few years ago ,miss ,alice ,lakey1 chairman of the food investigating committee of the ,national ,consumers' ,league1 said that ninety-five per cent4 of all samples of butter submitted were adulterated4 ,we are eating practically no pure butter4 ,while there is evidence to show that butter was made four thousand years ago1 it seems to have taken some nations a long time to catch up with the procession4 ,we are a long way ahead1 on the whole1 of the ,spaniards1 who1 as late as the seventeenth century1 kept butter in medicine shops for external use only 7doubtless there were good reasons67 and who to this day hardly know what edible butter is2 or of the ,irish of that same century who are spoken of by ,james ,houghton as rotting their table butter by burying it in bogs4 ,but we are lamentably behind some of the ,european nations1 notably the ,french1 ,germans1 ,austrians1 and ,swiss1 in the making and the appreciation of first-class butter4 ,in some of our leading restaurants and hotels1 as well as in expensive clubs and the residences of wealthy families1 one may come across such butter2 but one is not sure of getting the real thing even after paying the highest price4 ,i seldom eat it at home--there are too many disappointments--and when ,i travel in the ,united ,states ,i rarely have the courage to try it4 ,in rural summer resorts we have found that the only way to get edible butter is to make it ourselves4 ,as regards ,europe1 on the contrary1 ,i can repeat what ,i have said about poultry3 that during a five months' trip in #aiab ,i did not once have butter placed before me which ,i could not eat with pleasure4 ,the unwillingness of ,americans to take pains in the preparation of foods to which ,i have referred as one of the main indications of our being an ungastronomic nation is strikingly illustrated in the department of butter-making1 wherein it is the chief cause of our inferiority4 ,our ,government has done its best to enlighten the butter-makers4 ,in #aijd the ,department of ,agriculture published1 for free distribution1 ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #bda3 ,butter-making on the ,farm1 by ,edwin ,h4 ,webster1 ,chief of ,dairy ,division1 ,bureau of ,animal ,industry2 and1 in #aije1 ,circular ,no4 #ef of the same ,bureau3 ,facts ,concerning the ,history1 ,commerce and ,manufacture of ,butter1 by ,harry ,hayward1 assistant chief4 ,these pamphlets contain in concise form invaluable information which1 if generally utilized1 would revolutionize the butter business4 ,mr4 ,webster refers to the great amount of poor butter made on the farm1 and ,mr4 ,hayward also confesses that a very small percentage of all dairy butter made is of really high grade4 ,when one reads of all the diverse precautions that must be taken to ensure a good article1 and bears in mind the characteristically ,american unwillingness to take pains with the things that are put into our stomachs1 one wonders not that our butter is so inferior4 ,a few of the hundred-and-one precautions necessary to secure a first-class article may be briefly mentioned4 ,the cow must be kept carefully cleaned1 particularly the udder1 and so must the hands of the milker1 and the pail which holds the milk4 ,the habit of some milkers of wetting their hands with milk just as they begin is a filthy practice and the cause of much bad milk and poor butter4 ,there must be no hidden1 inaccessible places in the pails1 nor must rusty tinware be used1 because it imparts a metallic flavor to the milk4 ,some of the so-called washing powders are very objectionable4 ,the walls of the barn must be whitewashed1 and the ventilation such that the air is changed every few minutes4 ,the pails must be rinsed first with cold1 then with boiling water4 ,the milk must be removed as soon as possible from the barn1 where it readily absorbs dust or bad odors from the air1 and then stored in a cold place1 far away from decaying vegetables or fruits or other things1 the odors of which it might absorb4 ,the sun should pervade the cold storage room but not look on the milk4 ,if possible1 the cream should be collected by means of a separator1 for the proper handling of which there are a number of rules1 the neglect of any one of which will spoil the butter4 ,it is absolutely necessary to cool the cream thoroughly1 immediately after separating1 and to avoid mixing of cold with warm cream4 ,then there are a number of directions concerning churning2 working the butter to get out the milk and water2 packing2 marketing2 feeding the cows1 and so on1 none of which can be disregarded with impunity4 ,this complexity of the art of butter-making may help to explain the situation in ,america1 but does not excuse it1 for in the gastronomic countries of ,europe people are not too lazy1 ignorant1 or indifferent to turn out a first-class article every day in the year4 ,what ,i wish to call particular attention to is that all these precautions necessary for the making of first-class butter relate to its ,flavor4 ,persons buying butter for any other purpose than the enjoyment of its ,flavor are extremely foolish1 for they can get the same amount of fat and general nourishment very much cheaper in a hundred other ways4 ,it is for the sake of securing an agreeable aroma or ,flavor that all the rules just enumerated1 and two-score more1 must be observed4 ,if this is not done--if only one or two of them are neglected--there are developed in the milk1 or the cream1 or the churned butter1 bacteria of a very disagreeable kind1 which will convert butter that might have been of the highest grade into a second1 third1 or fourth grade article1 or one quite unfit for human consumption1 because of excessively rancid1 fishy1 smoky1 tallowy1 leeky1 soapy1 cheesy1 or other flavors4 ,the art of butter-making consists in eliminating all disagreeable flavors and fostering the agreeable ones4 ,renovated or process butter is made of butter in which1 on account of careless manufacture or storing1 the disagreeable bacteria have so got the upper hand of the agreeable ones that even those persons who1 because of a slender purse or an imperfectly developed sense of smell1 are contented with fourth-grade butter1 refuse to buy it4 ,this stuff 7often sold1 horribile dictu1 as cooking butter7 is subjected to a process of purification1 which makes it a wholesome and nutritious article of diet4 ,yet it is sold at a much lower price1 for the reason that it is inferior in ,flavor to good butter4 ,the long and fierce fight between the butter-makers and the manufacturers of oleomargarine is also in the final analysis1 a question of ,flavor4 ,oleomargarine is a mixture of vegetable and animal fats1 diversely mixed4 ,this mixture is churned with milk to impart a butter ,flavor2 or there is added to it more or less butter1 in which case it is known commercially as butterine1 although legally it is classified as oleomargarine4 ,if made honestly1 of clean material1 and unadulterated with borated ,chinese egg-yolks1 or with preservatives1 oleomargarine is a perfectly unobjectionable and wholesome food4 ,the trouble is that1 as ,dr4 ,wiley has pointed out 7#aiaa71 there has been a constant disposition on the part of dishonest manufacturers and dealers1 since the time when oleomargarine became a commercial commodity1 to sell it as butter4 ,although the penalties of ,national and ,state laws are very severe in this respect the practice is continued4 ,the opportunity for gain is so great that the cupidity of the manufacturer overcomes his fear of punishment and disgrace4 ,there has been much outcry because of the special tax on oleomargarine and the severe laws against selling it as butter4 ,as a matter of fact these laws should be even more severe and much more rigidly enforced4 ,the practice of selling it as butter not only defrauds the consumer but it tends to drive real butter out of the market1 since such butter cannot be produced at nearly so low a cost as margarine1 especially if made with the care and expenditure of time necessary for the production of first-class butter4 ,the best butter costs five or six times as much as the best margarine4 ,it is needless to say that in the compounding of butterine the best butter is not likely to be used4 ,by mixing milk or butter with his fats1 the manufacturer of margarine confesses that his own product lacks the one thing which gives butter its advantage1 for table use1 over a dozen other fats that might be chosen--its appetizing ,flavor1 which makes it digestible and enables us to eat it with relish every day in the year4 ,it is owing to this superiority that pure butter is entitled to legal protection against unfair competition4 ,it might be argued that the ,american farmer1 whose butter is1 as we have seen1 usually of a low grade1 does not deserve the protection the ,government gives him against the underselling of the margarine maker1 because good oleomargarine is preferable to bad butter4 ,such protection is1 however1 due to the associated system of manufacture known as creameries4 ,the creamery1 which in #aijj had already usurped one-half the butter business in the country1 has done much1 as ,mr4 ,hayward remarks1 to improve the quality of ,american butter1 and if all butter came direct from creameries there would be no such quantities sold by producers at prices which are often actually below the cost of production1 as is the case at the present time4 ,,sweet ,,butter ,,versus ,,salt4 ,there are now a number of model creameries in the ,united ,states turning out butter which would probably equal the best ,european were it not habitually spoiled by the injudicious use of a starter to turn the cream quite sour1 and by the addition of salt4 ,the subtle and much disputed question of sour cream versus sweet will be discussed in the chapter on ,french ,supremacy4 ,that of salt or no salt must be disposed of now4 ,the assertion frequently made that unsalted butter tastes insipid to most users is not confirmed by my own experience4 ,no doubt the subtle aroma of sweet butter escapes many who are partially anosmic 7a frequent defect analogous to color-blindness71 or who have neglected to train their sense of smell1 or who have deadened their olfactory nerve by excessive smoking or drinking of strong liquors1 so that they cannot appreciate the delicate aroma of ,european butter4 ,but ,i have come across many ,americans at home and abroad who1 given a fair chance1 instantly and emphatically preferred the unsalted butter4 ,once ,i made a special experiment at a rural boarding house in ,maine4 ,of a dozen persons at the table only one liked salt butter better2 two had no decided preference1 while the other nine voted1 after a fair trial and comparison1 for sweet butter first1 last1 and all the time4 ,the only trouble was that much more was consumed of the sweet than had been eaten of the salt2 which shows the folly of those dealers who think they are smart in selling pounds of salt at the price of butter1 whereas in truth they would sell twice as much butter if they left it sweet1 because that kind is so much more palatable and tempting4 ,boarding house keepers will always order salt butter4 ,undoubtedly the vast majority of ,americans at present prefer1 or think they prefer1 salted butter4 ,to convince them that this preference simply proves that their gastronomic education has been neglected1 let me add a few significant details4 ,dr4 ,wiley1 in whose taste1 judgment and knowledge we all have so much faith says that the best grade of butter is that which receives no treatment other than the washing and working process to which attention has been called4 ,this kind of butter is known as natural or unsalted or uncolored butter1 that is1 a fresh1 sweet product of an agreeable aroma1 palatable1 of fine texture and grain1 and is the best product of its kind for human consumption4 ,it also brings the highest price on the market4 ,until a few years ago it was almost impossible1 even in ,new ,york ,city1 to get unsalted butter4 ,to-day it is usually served in the most expensive hotels and restaurants1 some of the wealthy folk use it at home1 and the general customer has a chance to buy it in a few places1 at fancy prices4 ,it is seldom as good as the same product in the humblest inn of ,continental ,europe1 but it is improving from year to year4 ,in connection with this fact it is interesting to read the words of ,chief ,hayward1 in the ,government publication already referred to4 ,what is known as the highest class trade demands a much lighter salted butter than is demanded for the lower grades4 ,furthermore1 there is an increasing tendency on the part of the best trade to ask for a butter containing less and less salt4 ,butter which has a clean1 pure flavor needs little salt2 that which is off-flavor or tainted in any way is improved by being strongly salted4 ,in other words1 the worse the butter1 the more salt it needs1 and the better the butter the less salt it needs4 ,from this it follows logically that the best butter needs no salt at all4 ,the notion that salt brings out the ,flavor is ridiculous2 it spoils it4 ,in the gastronomic countries of ,europe the consumer would no more allow salt to be put into the butter he eats than into the cream he puts in his coffee1 or the ice-cream he takes for his dessert4 ,there is absolutely no excuse for continuing the barbarous practice of denaturing ,american butter by the addition of salt4 ,it does not even help to make it keep4 ,on this point ,dr4 ,wiley remarks3 ,it is a common supposition that salt in butter is a preservative4 ,this is true when used in large quantities1 that is1 in quantities which render the butter somewhat unpalatable4 ,the very small quantity of salt used purely for condimental purposes cannot be regarded as aiding in any material way the preservation of the product4 ,there is also a comic side to the question and the joke is on the butter-maker and dealer4 ,i have already pointed out that we are tempted to eat much more of the sweet butter than of the salt4 ,there is another weighty reason why the makers would profit by leaving out the salt4 ,dr4 ,wiley observes that there is a tendency on the part of the greedy manufacturer to add excessive quantities of salt because it is very much cheaper than the butter itself and thus he hopes to add to the profit of the industry4 ,on the contrary this practice usually results in loss1 since such highly salted butter naturally brings the lowest price4 ,the funniest part of the story remains to be told4 ,by throwing in handfuls of salt the maker not only lowers the market price of his butter but also decreases its weight6 ,read ,assistant ,chief ,hayward's explanation of this seeming paradox3 ,butter will usually weigh less after the salt has been added and the butter worked than before4 ,this is due to the fact1 already mentioned1 that salt unites1 or collects1 the small drops of moisture into drops so large that they can be separated from the butter1 and1 as the total weight of the water or brine thus separated exceeds the weight of salt added1 the butter consequently loses weight by reason of salting4 ,if1 in spite of all this1 the butter-maker and dealer persist in foisting strongly salted butter on you1 beware6 ,it can only be because1 as ,chief ,hayward has pointed out1 that which is 'off flavor' or tainted in any way1 is improved by being strongly salted4 ,do you wish to habitually eat bad butter thus improved8 ,can it be possible that you do not resent being the dupe of the astute butter men8 ,illustration ,,iv ,,the ,,science ,,of ,,savory ,,cooking ,,desirable ,,raw ,,foods4 ,nobody wants a boiled or fried orange or grapefruit for breakfast4 ,other fruits1 such as apples1 pears1 peaches1 plums1 cherries1 grapes1 and diverse berries are often cooked1 in many ways2 but when ripe1 sound and of good stock1 they usually taste better raw than cooked4 ,we do not boil our melons1 nuts1 or radishes1 nor1 as a rule1 our celery and green-salad leaves of various kinds1 or our cucumbers4 ,tomatoes make an excellent stew1 but they are better still sliced raw1 with vinegar and oil1 and best of all eaten out of hand right off the plant4 ,these things nearly everybody knows4 ,many1 however1 are not aware that the best thing about a cabbage is the core1 eaten raw1 and that carrots1 turnips1 and particularly peas1 when young and tender1 are far better raw than cooked4 ,raw carrots taste a little like celery4 ,one of my chief delights when on a farm is to stroll about the garden and orchard1 sampling the various vegetables1 berries1 and fruits just before breakfast4 ,a tolerable case might thus be made out for those faddists who preach the gospel of raw food4 ,like all fads1 it is nevertheless foolish4 ,were we to accept it1 we might still eat sun-dried meat1 or ham1 sausages1 and fish thoroughly smoked1 but we would hardly care to eat raw bacon1 or veal1 or mutton1 or poultry1 or beef 7though a beefsteak la ,tartare is edible when buried under diverse trimmings from the delicatessen store74 ,i should like to see a faddist eat a raw potato or beet1 or a plateful of raw pumpkin1 squash1 or beans6 ,were we to live on raw foods altogether1 we might survive to tell the tale1 but we should have to give up that infinite variety which is the chief spice of our diet4 ,at the same time one of the great arts of civilization would vanish from the earth--an art which does as much to distinguish us from animals as the fine arts do--more so1 in fact1 for birds sing and beavers build houses1 but no bird or other animal ever cooks its food4 ,,flavor ,,as ,,the ,,guiding ,,principle4 ,cookery is an art which almost more than any other has civilized mankind1 as ,president ,e4 ,b4 ,tylor of the ,british ,anthropological ,association has truly said4 ,illustration3 ,before breakfast in the garden ,nor is it only an art2 it is also a science--or rather1 it is becoming a science4 ,from time immemorial cooks have1 by instinct or accident1 often done the right thing2 but in the absence of a guiding principle1 scientifically formulated1 they have much more frequently made a mess of it4 ,there are four reasons for cooking food3 to sterilize it2 to make it more nutritious2 to make it more easily digestible2 and to improve or vary its ,flavor4 ,cooking destroys the germs of typhoid and other diseases which may lurk in food products1 and it also retards the general decomposition which may result in ptomaine poisoning4 ,it has long been believed that raw or semi-raw meat is more nutritious than meat which has been moderately cooked2 but this is not true4 ,it is true1 on the other hand1 that in the ordinary methods of cooking there is often a considerable loss of nutriment4 ,the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture has had a number of experiments made to place this question on a scientific basis4#e ,much remains to be done1 but in the end it will doubtless be found that there is no appreciable loss if ,french methods are followed4 ,that cooking makes most foods more digestible it is needless to prove4 ,even fruits which taste better raw1 digest more readily when cooked4 ,a great many persons who cannot1 for instance1 eat apples1 find them not only agreeable but easily assimilated and most beneficial to health when stewed or baked4 ,cereals 7particularly oatmeal7 and many vegetables and meats need cooking--sometimes hours of it to make them easy to masticate and digest4 ,the main object of cooking1 however1 is to preserve and develop the countless savors latent in good raw material1 to combine them or to add others where the material is deficient in natural ,flavor4 ,this is the guiding principle to the science of cookery4 ,strange to say1 there are cook books in which the word ,flavor is not to be found6 ,the recipes given in such books may be correct1 but to follow them mechanically is like playing the notes of a piano piece without knowing anything about expression marks4 ,flavor is the soul of food as expression is the soul of music4 ,born cooks know this instinctively and act on it4 ,but cooks can also be made4 ,tremendous improvement could be effected in our kitchens in a short time by attending to the elements of the ,science of ,savory ,cooking1 long since discovered1 but usually ignored4 ,much has been written about the wastefulness in our households4 ,a ,french family1 we have been told a thousand times1 could live on what is thrown away in an ,american kitchen4 ,true2 but as long as we enjoy our present national prosperity this waste is a far less deplorable matter than the criminal way in which ignorant or careless persons habitually denature our best food materials by allowing the healthful ,flavors to escape during the process of cooking4 ,,the ,,philosophy ,,of ,,soup ,,making ,,and ,,eating4 ,in each of the processes of cooking1 such as boiling1 roasting1 frying1 stewing1 steaming1 baking1 it is necessary to observe certain elementary rules which can easily be taught4 ,boiling4 ,in boiling meat1 everything depends on whether the object is to keep the juices within the meat or to get them out2 in other words1 whether the meat is intended to be eaten1 or simply used for the purpose of making a rich1 flavorful bouillon or soup4 ,if the meat is to be eaten1 it is plunged at once into boiling water1 which coagulates the protein on the outside and prevents the loss of the juices4 ,the bigger the chunk1 the better4 ,if the meat is not to be eaten1 it is put into a pot of cold water and the temperature is raised gradually4 ,in this case the richest broth is obtained if the meat is cut up into small pieces and cooked a long time4 ,it is almost universally believed that soup meat 7usually beef7 boiled in this way has lost most of its nutritive qualities and that these have gone into the soup4 ,in reality1 it is all a matter of ,flavor4 ,we prefer the soup to the meat boiled in it1 merely because the ,flavor of the meat has been transferred to the soup4 ,the nutritive matter remains in the meat2 the soup stock has very little of it--from one to five per cent4 only4 ,it is evident1 therefore1 as ,dr4 ,wiley points out1 that the soup stock is valuable as a condiment and flavoring and not as a food4 ,the same is true of beef extract1 which is simply a concentrated soup stock--thirty-four pounds of beef boiled down into one pound4 ,here we have the whole philosophy of soup making and soup eating1 reduced to the simplest terms4 ,soup contains the essence of meat ,flavor1 and we eat it at the beginning of a meal because this ,flavor stimulates the appetite1 which in turn causes the digestive juices to flow freely4 ,the richer the soup is in ,flavor1 the more it stimulates the appetite4 ,the beef extracts sold in little jars are1 if made by reputable firms1 among the most valuable appetizers--invaluable1 in fact1 in a country in which the science of making savory soup is so little understood or practised as it is in the ,united ,states4 ,the makers of meat extracts have laid themselves open to censure by making extravagant claims as to the nutritive properties of these extracts1 instead of dwelling principally on their importance as flavorful appetizers4 ,this1 to be sure1 they could hardly have been expected to do until the all-importance of ,flavor in ,food had been impressed on the public in a special monograph4 ,,wherein ,,lies ,,the ,,value ,,of ,,vegetables8 ,except for the making of soup stock1 and of extracts and beef tea1 boiling of meats is not much in vogue in ,america4 ,vegetables1 on the other hand1 are usually boiled--and thereby hangs a melancholy tale4 ,boiled they should be1 but not in the careless1 unscientific way generally practised in ,america and ,england1 where they usually are served at table entirely denatured1 that is1 deprived of their ,flavors4 ,villainous and idiotic are the only adjectives that adequately describe this method of cooking vegetables1 for their utility as food lies chiefly in these ,flavors1 the nutritive value of green vegetables being small4 ,how small it is may be seen by the analysis given in ,dr4 ,wiley's ,foods and their ,adulteration1 ,part ,,vi1 where he says1 for example3 ,there is very little nourishment obtained in eating a turnip which perhaps is #ie per cent4 water1--yet its palatability1 its condimental character1 and its general salutary effect upon digestion is such as to make it worth while to pay even a high price in proportion to its nutriment4 ,if the reader wants more evidence on this point he may find it in ,sir ,henry ,thompson's valuable book1 ,food and ,feeding4 ,speaking of the entire cabbage tribe in great variety2 lettuces1 endives1 and cresses2 spinach1 sea-kale1 asparagus1 celery1 onions1 artichokes1 and tomato1 he remarks that all these are valuable not so much for nutritive property1 which is not considerable1 as for admixture with other food chiefly on account of salts which they contain1 and for their appetizing aroma and ,flavor4 ,therefore1 to boil green vegetables without the slightest attempt to preserve or develop their natural ,flavors1 as is almost universally done in our country1 is1 ,i repeat1 villainous and idiotic4 ,americans undoubtedly eat too much meat4 ,preaching about the injuriousness of this excess may do some good1 but a much more effective way would be to cook vegetables more temptingly4 ,if peas and string beans are succulent and fresh1 they are delicious when simply boiled in salted water4 ,in cities they seldom are quite fresh1 and1 as a rule1 it is well to add soup stock or butter to develop the ,flavor4 ,in any case1 it is of importance that the water should be already boiling when the vegetables are put in4 ,if this is not the case1 there is a loss of valuable salts and ,flavors4 ,some loss there must always be2 that is1 the water always absorbs some of these juices and ,flavors2 but note the difference4 ,french cooks preserve this vegetable stock1 as they do the meat stock1 for diverse combinations4 ,our cooks pour it down the sink4 ,it is fortunate that the ,united ,states ,government has undertaken to establish the principles of savory cooking by scientific methods1 which will lead to more satisfaction and generally helpful results than the empirical1 haphazard methods hitherto followed by cooks4 ,an interesting glimpse into the kitchen laboratories of our ,government experts is given by ,murray in his ,economy of ,food4 ,it is obvious1 he says1 that the loss of nutrients will be increased by cutting the vegetables into small pieces1 and by soaking them in cold water before cooking4 ,in the case of potatoes1 turnips1 and similar products1 the loss might be greatly diminished by cooking them whole with the skins on1 but as a rule this method is not practicable4 ,these conclusions are confirmed by the experiments of ,snyder1#f ,frisby1 and ,bryant4 ,they found that when potatoes were peeled1 cut into pieces in the usual way1 and soaked in cold water before boiling about half the total nitrogen--including about a quarter of the true albuminoids--was lost4 ,when put into cold water and cooked at once1 only about a sixth of the total nitrogen--including a twelfth part of the true albuminoids--was lost4 ,when the potatoes were put1 at once1 into boiling water1 the loss was only about half the amount recorded in the last case2 but1 for some reason1 this method is not suitable for some kinds of potatoes1 as they 'go to smash' if so treated4 ,the loss from potatoes boiled in their skins was quite inconsiderable1 being less than one per cent4 of the total nitrogen4 ,in boiling carrots which had been scraped and cut into pieces1 the amount of the loss was found to depend almost entirely upon the size of the pieces4 ,small pieces lost about #dj per cent4 of the total nitrogen and #bf per cent4 of the sugar4 ,with large pieces1 the loss of nitrogen was about #bj per cent4 and of sugar1 #ae per cent4 ,a number of useful hints for the practical cook are supplied by these scientific experiments4 ,it is needless to say that in potatoes and beets1 and in dried vegetables1 like beans1 corn1 and peas1 the proportion of nutriment is greater than in the succulent greens4 ,in the cooking of dried vegetables the preservation and development of ,flavors is also of great importance1 with a view especially to digestibility4 ,unlike the green1 the dried vegetables should be cooked by putting them into cold water2 and prolonged cooking is necessary in order to soften and otherwise prepare them for the alimentary canal4 ,our benevolent ,government a few years ago engaged one of the country's chief cooking experts1 ,maria ,parloa1 to write a brief treatise on the ,preparation of ,vegetables for the ,table for free distribution by the ,department of ,agriculture as ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #bef4 ,like all these documents1 it is excellent2 in less than fifty pages it explains the best ways of cooking potatoes1 beans1 peas1 carrots1 asparagus and two-score more of the products of the garden2 and these pages are followed by others on vegetable soups1 seasoning and sauces for vegetables1 and salads and salad dressings4 ,every cook1 urban as well as rural1 should have a copy of this pamphlet and mark with a red pencil the more important directions4 ,if every cook in the country knew and practised only the following directions given in this useful document1 what a transformation there would be in our dining-rooms6 ,all green vegetables1 roots1 and tubers should be crisp and firm when put on to cook4 ,if for any reason a vegetable has lost its firmness and crispness1 it should be soaked in very cold water until it becomes plump and crisp4 ,with new vegetables this will be only a matter of minutes1 while old roots and tubers often require many hours4 ,all vegetables should be thoroughly cooked1 but the cooking should stop while the vegetable is still firm4 ,over-cooked vegetables are inferior in flavor and often indigestible4 ,badly cooked1 water-soaked vegetables very generally cause digestive disturbances1 which are often serious4 ,cabbage is apt to be indigestible and cause flatulence when it is improperly cooked4 ,on the other hand1 it can be cooked so that it will be delicate and digestible4 ,steaming is one of the best ways of cooking vegetables4 ,it is largely practised in ,france and ,germany1 but neglected in ,england as it is in ,america4 ,potatoes have more of their natural ,flavor when steamed than when cooked any other way4 ,an ,english writer says on this point3 ,steaming has the double advantage of conserving the ,flavor and making the food more digestible4 ,its only drawback is that it takes more time1 and this is probably the reason why it has somewhat fallen into disfavor in ,england4 ,,broiling1 ,,roasting1 ,,baking1 ,,frying4 ,as this volume is not intended to be a practical cook-book1 no attempt is made to give rules for all the various processes of cooking food2 nor is it necessary1 for nearly every family owns a cook-book giving the required directions4 ,what ,i wish to emphasize is that in all these processes the rules given by the best chefs refer directly or indirectly to the preservation and development of the food ,flavors4 ,a few brief paragraphs will suffice to prove this point4 ,broiling4 ,as one expert puts it3 ,the ideal to be reached in broiling steak is to sear the surface very quickly1 so that the juices which contain the greater part of the flavoring of the meat shall be kept in1 and then to allow the heat to penetrate to the inside until the whole mass is cooked to the taste of the family4 ,to pass the point where the meat ceases to be puffy and juicy and becomes flat and hard is very undesirable1 as the palatability is then lost4 ,exactly the same ideal should be kept in mind in broiling chopped meat4 ,if this were always done1 hard1 compact1 tasteless balls or cakes of meat would be served less often4 ,the three words ,i have italicized show that in this case1 as in all others1 my contention is borne out that ,flavor is the guiding principle in all scientific cooking4 ,the use of the gridiron for a broil1 or grill1 as the ,english call it 7after the ,french griller71 also imparts to the meat a slightly burnt taste relished by epicures4 ,roasting4 ,why is our roast beef usually so insipid and unappetizing8 ,sometimes the inferior quality of the meat is to blame1 but more frequently our disappointment is due to the cook's indolence or the substitution of baking for roasting4 ,real roasting is like broiling in so far as it requires exposure of the meat to an open fire4 ,it differs from broiling in that it also calls for frequent basting1 that is1 taking up with a spoon the fat which flows from the meat and pouring it over the surface1 thus aiding the initial searing in keeping in the juices1 on which the ,flavor depends4 ,ordinary cooks are too lazy to baste and therefore this precious juice escapes into the pan1 where it is in turn spoiled by a deluge of water and an uncooked mass of flour1 the resulting liquid being a sorry substitute for real1 savory gravy4 ,in place of roast meat most families now have to put up with baked meat4 ,baking in an open pan in a modern range results in the tainting of the meat with the disagreeable flavor of charred fat spattered by the cooking process against the top and the sides of the oven4 ,the oven being unventilated1 and not easily washed1 the result is a permanent oven taste in the roast beef1 mutton1 veal1 pork1 or chicken1 which is almost as exasperating to a discerning diner as the taint of cold-storage poultry4 ,this objectionable oven taste can be eliminated by using a double roasting pan1 which also has1 to a certain extent1 the advantage of being self-basting4 ,a conscientious cook1 who knows the value of ,flavor and of real gravy1 will nevertheless look after the basting personally4 ,the value of gravy is far too little understood4 ,nothing is more appetizing in association with a good plain roast than the gravy made from its fat and some of its juices4 ,in starting a roast it is of prime importance to expose the meat at once to a very high temperature so as to sear the surface and 7as already stated7 keep the juice in the meat4 ,but before the searing process is completed1 enough of the juice usually escapes to make1 in combination with the fat which continues to ooze out1 a delicious gravy4 ,the ,french do not add flour to gravy2 if it is added1 it should at least be used sparingly1 and cooked five to eight minutes in the gravy4 ,frying4 ,give a dog a bad name1 etc46 ,frying has been denounced as an invention of the devil1 a source of countless digestive disorders4 ,as ordinarily practised it fully deserves its evil repute4 ,from a dietetic as well as a gastronomic point of view nothing could be more objectionable than the fried steaks1 bacon1 potatoes1 and diverse deadly fritters daily placed on hundreds of thousands of ,american tables4 ,but frying on rational principles is an entirely wholesome and most desirable branch of the science of savory cooking4 ,success or failure in this branch is chiefly a matter of temperature4 ,at the moment the meat1 fish1 or vegetable is put into the fat1 this must be sufficiently hot to coagulate the surface so that 7as in the processes of roasting or broiling7 the juices with their ,flavors are kept within4 ,if the fat is not hot enough1 the food comes out soaked with grease and highly indigestible4 ,on the other hand1 care must be taken that the fat is not scorched4 ,this point is best explained in one of the ,agricultural ,department's helpful publications4#g ,the chief reason for the bad opinion in which fried food is held by many is that it almost always means eating burnt fat4 ,when fat is heated too high it splits up into fatty acids and glycerin1 and from the glycerin is formed a substance 7acrolein7 which has a very irritating effect upon the mucous membrane4 ,all will recall that the fumes of scorched fat make the eyes water4 ,it is not surprising that such a substance1 if taken into the stomach1 should cause digestive disturbance4 ,fat in itself is very valuable food1 and the objection to fried foods because they may be fat seems illogical4 ,the temperature required varies with the different foods and styles desired4 ,on this point1 as well as on the relative merits of the various baths to be used1 sufficient information is given in cook books4 ,the best frying baths are made of suet and veal fat1 fresh butter1 and pure olive oil4 ,for the sake of economy1 and variety in flavor1 it is also advisable to use the drippings from fried bacon1 ham1 or sausage--but not from fish4 ,in speaking of broiled meat ,i referred to the slightly burnt taste which is relished by epicures--somewhat as dissonances are by music-lovers4 ,in the case of fried and roast meats1 properly browned on the surface1 there is a somewhat similar but less dissonant flavor which comes from browning the meat with fat4 ,if the browning has been done scientifically many persons 7,i am one of them7 prefer the outside slices of roast meat to the inside4 ,,combining ,,the ,,flavors ,,of ,,meats ,,and ,,vegetables4 ,apart from the adventitious browned flavors just referred to there are in broiled1 baked1 and roast meats usually no combination flavors except such as come from the butter and salt that are added after the meat is done4 ,two most important details to know are that if the salt is put on meat before it is broiled1 it allows the juices to escape2 but that in frying a steak 7which is not a barbarism if properly done7 salt added at once helps to make a delicious gravy4 ,in the frying of meats or of vegetables 7parsnips1 carrots1 egg plant1 oyster plant1 and particularly potatoes7 a desirable extra flavor can also be added by using the fat previously fried out of bacon1 ham1 or sausages1 or the fat from a pot-roast or the soup kettle4 ,endless possibilities for combination ,flavors are offered by two of the cooking processes3 boiling and stewing4 ,the first of these has already been briefly considered under the head of the ,philosophy of ,soupmaking4 ,stewing is not usually considered one of the most high-toned of cooking processes2 yet1 if scientifically done--think of a real ,irish stew6--it provides dishes second to none in savoriness--dishes fit for gods1 kings1 and epicures4 ,and a man might live a hundred years and have a new variety of stew every day1 so great are the possible permutations and combinations of vegetables and meats4 ,more savory results can often be secured by stewing than by any other process of cooking4 ,it is well-known that the sweetest 7that is1 the most highly flavored7 meat is that near a bone4 ,moreover1 the bone itself1 thoroughly cooked1 yields most agreeable flavors of its own4 ,now1 in making stews1 the bony parts 7shoulder1 neck1 end-pieces of ribs7 are used1 and the prolonged cooking called for by this process results in extracting all the sweetness from the bones and the meat nearest them4 ,boiling yields similar results1 but the savors pass into the liquid1 leaving the meat almost flavorless1 whereas in a stew the flavors enrich the gravy1 the vegetables1 and the meat alike1 in a particularly appetizing manner4 ,in ordinary stewing--the method of preparing the ,french buf la mode1 or the ,irish stew--the meat and the vegetables are put into water and allowed to simmer slowly4 ,a more elaborate method of stewing is known as braising4 ,in this process a strong liquor of vegetables and meats is used in place of water1 and it is usually advised that both the vegetables and the meat be fried in a little fat before being placed in the pot to braise4 ,this does not seem altogether scientific1 because in a stew the object is not to keep in the juices but to get them out and combine them4 ,a less objectionable way1 which some consider the last refinement necessary to produce a first rate braise is thus described3 ,have well-fitted to the braise-pot a sunk copper or iron cover1 in which some hot coals or charcoal are placed1 in order to transmit downwards a scorching heat to the top of the portion which is uncovered by the liquid in the pot below4 ,in this case it is usual to cover the portion1 especially if a fowl1 with a piece of white paper1 which serves to shield a delicate morsel from a too fierce heat4#h ,,savory ,,food ,,for ,,everybody4 ,it is to be greatly regretted that in ,america1 as in ,england1 the process of making diverse savory stews is so little understood4 ,for not only do such dishes appeal to the most fastidious epicures1 but a thorough and general knowledge of correct stewing would go far toward solving the problem of providing savory food for everybody4 ,too many ,americans look on the ability to buy the most expensive cuts of butcher's meats as the gauge of prosperity1 if not respectability4 ,now1 the difference between these expensive cuts and the cheaper ones lies much less in their nutritive value than in their texture and flavor4 ,inasmuch as ,i am preaching throughout this volume that the ,flavor is all-important1 this ought to justify the general scramble for the more expensive cuts1 but it does not2 for in truth these differences in ,flavor and tenderness can be obliterated by skilful cooking1 especially in the stew pan4 ,it has been well said that the real superiority of a good cook lies not so much in the preparation of expensive or fancy dishes as in the attractive preparation of inexpensive dishes for every day and in the skilful combination of flavors4 ,has not the ,french chef been praised a thousand times for his alleged ability to prepare a host of toothsome dishes from thistletops8 ,the ,government at ,washington1 which so kindly looks after our welfare in many ways1 has not overlooked this matter4 ,in a pamphlet 7to which reference has already been made17 issued as ,farmers' ,bulletin #cia for free distribution1 and entitled ,economical ,use of ,meat in the ,home1 two of the ,government's experts in nutrition1 ,dr4 ,c4 ,f4 ,langworthy and ,caroline ,l4 ,hunt1 have given forty-three pages of practical information and advice1 which1 if generally heeded1 would not only go far toward solving the high-cost-of-food problem1 but toward making us a gastronomic nation4 ,it is a document which cannot be too highly commended to the attention of all who are interested in cooking and eating4 ,the object of the pamphlet is to show that the number of tasty dishes which a good cook can make out of the cheaper cuts of meat or meat left over is almost endless4 ,directions are given for developing the natural flavor of meat even in the cheapest cuts and for further heightening the savors by the judicious use of condiments and sauces2 and these general directions are followed by a number of special recipes1 for making stews with dumplings2 meat pies2 meat with macaroni1 or beans1 or eggs2 meat with vinegar1 casserole cookery2 pounded or chopped meat1 etc4 ,in conclusion the authors refer to the strange prejudice which some housekeepers seem to have against economizing in the ways suggested by them2 upon which they comment that surely the intelligent housekeeper should take as much pride in setting a good table at a low price as the manufacturer does in lessening the cost of production in his factory4 ,the trouble with most cookbooks is that they are so bulky that few have the patience to wade through them to get at the general remarks to be found here and there4 ,this ,government bulletin is so short1 and yet covers so much ground1 that it is likely to do a vast amount of missionary work in ,american kitchens4 ,,meat ,,eating ,,of ,,the ,,future4 ,boycotting the butchers may be an effective way of temporarily lowering the price of meat1 but to make it permanently cheaper another method must be followed3 we must eat less and thus decrease the demand4 ,this we can do without depriving ourselves of any of the coveted pleasures of the table4 ,we like to eat meats because we enjoy their ,flavors2 but it is possible and easy to enjoy these same ,flavors in a way which makes our meals not only more economical but also more nutritious4 ,this method has long been in use1 but not to such an extent as it should be4 ,it consists in extending the flavor of meat to other material which costs less but has a higher nutritive value4 ,the most valuable pages of the ,bulletin referred to in the last section are those exemplifying the diverse methods of thus extending the flavor of meat4 ,the recipes are preceded by these illuminating words3 ,common household methods of extending the meat flavor through a considerable quantity of material which would otherwise be lacking in distinctive taste are to serve the meat with dumplings1 generally in the dish with it1 to combine the meat with crusts1 as in meat pies or meat rolls1 or to serve the meat on toast and biscuits4 ,borders of rice1 hominy1 or mashed potatoes are examples of the same principles applied in different ways4 ,by serving some preparation of flour1 rice1 hominy1 or other food rich in starch with the meat we get a dish which in itself approaches nearer to the balanced ration than meat alone and one in which the meat flavor is extended through a large amount of the material4 ,dr4 ,wiley1 in discussing this aspect of the question1 goes so far as to express the conviction that the meat eating of the future may not be regarded so much as a necessity as it has in the past1 but that meats will be used more as condimental substances than as staple foods4 ,meats as condiments rather than as foods6 ,there is a revolutionary doctrine for you6--a doctrine subversive of all the beliefs and practices of the past6 ,yet it is a doctrine which meat-eaters may accept calmly in view of the fact that what delights them in meat is its ,flavor1 and that even with a minimum quantity of meat this flavor can be preserved1 developed1 and extended in the diverse ways hinted at in the preceding pages4 ,in view of this truth1 meat-eaters should ponder what ,dr4 ,wiley says in favor of our eating less meat than we do and using it as a condiment3 ,in all meat1 for instance1 that costs twenty-five cents a pound1 such as steaks1 there is over one-third or a half of it which is inedible1 so that the edible portion really costs double the amount4 ,on the contrary1 when a pound of flour or maize is purchased1 the price of which is perhaps only one-eighth that of meat1 the whole of it is edible4 ,thus1 from the mere point of economy as well as nutrition1 the superiority of cereals and other vegetable products is at once evident4 ,on the one hand1 a cereal is almost a complete food containing all the elements necessary to nutrition1 and it costs only a few cents a pound4 ,on the other hand1 a steak or roast is only a partial food and it costs much more than cereals4 ,,the ,,folly ,,of ,,vegetarianism4 ,the vegetarians who would banish all meat from our diet must not infer from the remarks just quoted that ,dr4 ,wiley endorses their doctrine4 ,he is an epicure as well as a man of science1 and no epicure will ever advocate exclusive vegetarianism4 ,while conceding that man cannot be nourished by meat alone1 but that he can live and flourish without meat1 he holds that he is an omnivorous animal both by evolution and necessarily by heredity2 and he has written much1 and con amore1 about the pleasures of the table provided by meats cooked in savory ways4 ,it is needless to dwell on the fact that most persons find meats more appetizing and digestible than any other foods1 and that it would therefore be ridiculous as well as harmful to banish them from our tables4 ,the chief argument against vegetarianism is that it would deprive us of thousands of the delicious plain or combination ,flavors which make our food appetizing and digestible2 and this argument is so irrefutable1 so crushing1 that not another word need be wasted on the subject4 ,the ,flavor ,test settles it for all time1 as it does everything relating to food4 ,,when ,,to ,,use ,,condiments ,,and ,,sauces4 ,salt has been defined humorously as that which1 if not put in the soup1 spoils it4 ,potatoes1 eggs1 and many other foods are thus spoiled if eaten without a pinch of salt4 ,it is1 in fact1 added to most cooked foods1 by whatever methods prepared4 ,bread requires a considerable amount of salt to make it tasty4 ,american bakers usually put in too little1 and that is not only one of the reasons why our bread is so inferior to the best ,european1 but explains the prevalence of the habit of eating salted butter1 which1 as previously pointed out1 is as great a gastronomic barbarism as it would be to eat salted ice cream or drink salted coffee or tea1 although under the circumstances it is more pardonable than it would be if the bakers were not such bunglers4 ,in many countries some of the most important condiments--salt1 sugar1 vinegar1 mustard1 and pepper--are placed on the table so that every one may season his food to suit his individual taste4 ,yet in most cases these condiments do not give such good results when used at table as when added to the food while it is cooking4 ,it is well known that nothing so exasperates a ,french cook as to see some one 7,americans and ,englishmen are the chief sinners7 take a salt shaker in one hand1 a pepper box in the other1 and sprinkle their contents over the dish he has prepared1 without even trying to find out whether he had properly seasoned it in the kitchen4 ,our addiction to such a habit is1 of course1 a lamentable confession that our cooks usually know not how to season food4 ,it comes to us generally in such an insipid condition that we take it for granted that we must do something to make it palatable4 ,apart from the table condiments just named there are many others which are usually reserved for the kitchen4 ,among these are allspice1 bay leaf1 capers1 celery seed1 cinnamon1 cloves1 curry1 garlic1 onions1 ginger1 nutmeg1 sage1 thyme4 ,also1 a great variety of bottled sauces and of flavoring extracts1 such as the essences of vanilla1 lemon1 almonds1 etc4 ,at the risk of wearying the reader by seeming always to harp on the same string1 ,i must call attention to the fact that1 with the sole important exception of sugar1 all these diverse condiments have practically no direct nutritive value but are used the world over simply because of their agreeable ,flavors4 ,if they lose these ,flavors--as they do if their volatile essences escape1 or if they are adulterated 7which is frequent1 because so easy7 the only thing to do is to throw them into the garbage pail4 ,greater even than the number of spices and condiments is that of sauces4 ,these1 also1 are of two kinds3 some of them1 like tomato1 walnut1 or mushroom catsups1 ,worcestershire sauce1 pickles1 and tabasco1 are served at table1 while another very large class of sauces is usually made fresh in the kitchen for each meal4 ,all of these sauces--once more it must be parroted--like the spices and condiments just discussed1 are valued solely because of their ,flavors--their importance to the ,science of ,savory ,cooking4 ,one of the most important branches of this science relates to the proper use of sauces and condiments4 ,many persons commit the gastronomic sin of pouring a bottled sauce over a plate of meat or fish without previously ascertaining whether it needs any seasoning4 ,surely1 among all the food ,flavors1 nothing is more delicious than the natural savor of fresh sole or salmon1 or a juicy steak or chop just off the grill4 ,to put any kind of sauce--be it the best in the world--on such a dish is as unpardonable as it would be to pour cologne over a bunch of fragrant violets4 ,it is when the fish is a trifle tired1 or the meat without much flavor of its own1 as so often happens1 that these commercial sauces come to the rescue4 ,used only on such occasions1 they have their value2 and they are also desirable because of the variety they supply in the combination of flavors4 ,the ,french make hardly any use of bottled sauces2 theirs are domestic1 made in their own kitchens1 and they attach more importance to them than to anything else in culinary art4 ,sauces1 by the care and labor they require1 by the costly sacrifices which they necessarily involve1 ought to be considered as the essential basis of good cookery1 according to ,dubois-,bernard4 ,a man is never a good cook1 he adds1 if he does not possess a perfect knowledge of sauces1 and if he has not made a special study of the methodical principles on which their perfection depends4 ,the sauces provided in ,parisian restaurants and private houses are certainly delicious2 yet the ,french often err--and that is almost their only serious gastronomic fault--in sacrificing to them the delicious natural ,flavors of diverse prime meats1 just as ,americans and ,englishmen do by pouring on their bottled sauces4 ,butter has among its many virtues that of developing the natural ,flavors of meats and vegetables and may therefore often be used as a sauce in plain cooking l',anglaise4 ,but1 except for occasional variety1 other sauces should be allowed to assert themselves over the natural food flavors only when these are not of the best4 ,,cook ,,books4 ,theodore ,child--an ,american gastronomic missionary who unfortunately died young while traveling in ,persia--remarks in his book1 ,delicate ,feasting1 that while there are hundreds of cook books1 many of them admirable in their way1 and bought by many1 few are read or used1 for the reason that most of them consist of a vast number of recipes1 and a cook must be already very learned in his art in order to know how to use them with advantage4 ,in other words1 these books fail to explain the principles of the art of cooking--the ways of preserving1 developing1 and combining ,flavors--as ,i have attempted to do in this chapter4 ,there are exceptions1 and the best of these1 so far as ,i know1 is ,mary ,ronald's ,century ,cook ,book in which various methods of cooking are explained lucidly1 so that those who boil1 fry1 broil1 and so on1 not only may know what to do but why to do it thus and not otherwise4 ,the different sections1 on meats1 fish1 vegetables1 entres1 breads1 desserts1 etc41 all have prefatory pages of most useful condensed information4 ,a fairly complete list of the best cook books and other treatises on gastronomic topics may be found in ,ellwanger's ,pleasures of the ,table4 ,no fewer than #b1ejj books and brochures1 mostly ,french1 are listed in ,george's ,vicaire's ,bibliographic ,gastronomique4 ,probably the best and most widely used of the ,french cook books are those of ,urbain-,dubois4 ,there are seven of them3 ,cuisine ,classique1 ,cuisine ,artistique1 ,grand ,livre des ,patissiers et des ,confiseurs1 ,patisserie ,d',aujourd'hui1 ,cuisine ,d',aujourd'hui1 ,ecole des ,cuisiniers1 and ,la ,cuisine de tous les ,pays1 which includes recipes of all the nations who know how to eat4 ,to another ,french classic1 ,richardin's ,la ,cuisine ,franaise 7,l',art du ,bien ,manger7 with its #b1jjj recettes1 its menus of historic as well as gastronomic interest1 ,i shall refer in the next chapter4 ,the ,germans and ,austrians not only have books on the special ways of preparing food prevalent in different parts of the country1 but books about the specialties of other countries1 such as the making of marmalade in the ,english way1 etc4 ,the author of ,die ,kunst des ,essens1 ,emil ,weissenturn1 took the trouble to make lists of the still surviving cook books of various countries4 ,of #ag written in the fifteenth century1 #aj were ,latin1 #a ,english1 while ,germany1 ,italy and ,france each contributed #b4 ,in the sixteenth century ,latin was still in the lead with #db1 followed by ,germany with #cj and ,france with #ba4 ,italy contributed #af1 ,spain #e1 ,greece #b1 ,england #b4 ,in the seventeenth century ,france heads the list with #ajd books2 ,germany printed #ci1 #ca were in ,latin1 #ah ,italian1 #aj ,english1 #g ,dutch1 #a ,portuguese1 #a ,swedish4 ,in the eighteenth century ,germany comes to the fore with #if1 ,france following with #fj and ,england with #cd2 #ad are in ,latin1 #aa ,dutch1 #e ,italian1 #d ,spanish1 #c ,swedish4 ,in the nineteenth century ,germany's lead is still more remarkable--#cgd books as against #aeb contributed by ,france4 ,england makes a spurt with #aah4 ,italy rises to #ae2 ,sweden contributes #aj1 ,holland #h1 ,poland #g1 while ,latin survives with #g4 ,of recent ,english and ,american books that have come to me for review ,i liked particularly ,nicolas ,soyer's ,standard ,cookery1 ,marvin ,h4 ,neil's ,how to ,cook in ,casserole ,dishes and ,practical ,cooking and ,serving1 by ,janet ,mc,kenzie ,hill1 which is a complete manual of not only how to cook food1 but how to select and serve it4 ,the author is the editor of the ,boston ,cooking ,school ,magazine1 and she has a great deal of interesting and valuable information to impart4 ,in #aiaa ,soyer's ,paper ,bag ,cookery was published4 ,in it the famous chef who originated paper bag cookery--which has many advantages provided the right kind of paper is used--explained his method4 ,his ,standard ,cookery includes the substance of the smaller book while at the same time covering all the branches of cooking1 with over four hundred pages of menus4 ,hors-d'uvres are here treated more fully than in any other ,english book1 fifteen pages being given to them4 ,no fewer than seventy pages are given to this subject in ,escoffier's excellent ,le ,guide ,culinaire4 ,illustration3 ,chafing dish cooking ,french raffinement is shown in many of ,soyer's recipes4 ,under ,fried ,eggs1 for example the average ,american cook will read with astonishment that they should be dealt with one at a time and that1 with a wooden spoon1 the yolk should be quickly covered up with the solidified portions of the white in order to keep the former soft4 ,imagine ,bridget taking so much trouble4 ,she might1 perhaps1 be induced to heed these directions in making an omelette3 ,heat the pan until nearly a brown color4 ,this will not only lend an exquisite taste to the omelette but will be found to ensure the perfect setting of the eggs4 ,such seeming trifles make perfection4 ,casserole ,cookery is quite important enough to have a book to itself2 it is the cookery of the future1 and ,mme4 ,neil's monograph of #beb pages should be1 like the ,century ,cook ,book and ,soyer's ,standard ,cookery1 or ,mme4 ,hill's book1 in every kitchen4 ,in ,french restaurants more is always charged for casserole dishes than for others and they are decidedly worth it4 ,the ,flavor of food is particularly rich and appetizing when it has been cooked slowly in earthenware pots4 ,for braising1 pot roasting1 and stewing1 which are slow-cooking processes1 the casserole is far superior to metal pans in every way4 ,chafing ,dish ,cooking is treated in ,chapter ,,xiv of the ,century ,cook ,book1 and there are several smaller volumes specially devoted to this interesting branch of the art--dining-room cooking it might be called--one by ,alice ,l4 ,james4 ,who has not enjoyed a welsh rarebit made in a chafing dish--or terrapin1 or lobster la ,newburg1 or chicken livers1 or crab toast1 smelts1 venison1 etc48 ,for housekeepers of moderate means who want to know what wonders of palatable cooking can be achieved with scraps and left-overs1 among other things1 no guide is better than ,the ,helping ,hand ,cook ,book by ,marion ,harland and ,christine ,terhune ,herrick4 ,it contains menus for every breakfast1 lunch and dinner from the first of ,january to the last of ,december4 ,while purchasers of fireless cookers are always provided with brief printed instructions1 ,i would advise every owner of such a box to get a copy of ,margaret ,j4 ,mitchell's ,fireless ,cook ,book1 which contains full directions1 with recipes and menus4 ,the question of seasoning is discussed2 there are chapters on meats1 vegetables1 desserts1 etc42 hints as to how to tell good material from bad2 directions to prevent over or under cooking1 etc4 ,illustration ,v ,a ,,noble ,,art ,no one who has read the last chapter1 and ,chapter ,,ii can fail to be convinced that cooking is not only a science1 but the most important of all sciences--the science on which our health depends more than on any other2 a science concerning which ,sir ,henry ,thompson has truly said that an adequate recognition of its value in prolonging healthy life and in promoting cheerful temper1 prevalent good nature1 and improved moral tone1 would achieve almost a revolution in the habits of a large part of the community4 ,nor is cookery merely a science1 it is also an art4 ,it can and will be classed in the future as one of the fine arts4 ,a famous ,french lawyer once declared that he would not believe in the advent of real civilization until a chef had been elected a member of the ,institute of ,arts and ,sciences4 ,the details given in the preceding chapter show how a good cook can vary the ,flavors of food as a composer varies his orchestral colors2 and if she does her work with intelligence and con amore she can get genuine artistic delight therefrom4 ,at the same time she will have the moral satisfaction of knowing that she is giving gastronomic pleasure to those who benefit by her art4 ,a cook can be genuinely creative1 inventing new sauces1 new flavors1 new combinations1 new dishes1 with appropriate names for them1 thus acquiring universal fame1 as did ,carme and many others1 among them ,bchamel1 whose name has become a household word the world over1 not because he was a marquis but because he invented a new sauce4 ,from a moral point of view1 cooking is one of the noblest of the arts4 ,the old adage that the way to a man's heart is through his stomach is often sneered at as being materialistic if not coarse4 ,it is no such thing2 it simply hints at the truth that it is extremely difficult for a man to be amiable and loving when he suffers the pangs of dyspepsia4 ,on this subject one of the #cj1jjj persons who wrote to the ,london ,telegraph in answer to the question1 ,is ,marriage ,a ,failure8 made some remarks which every young woman who is1 or expects to be1 a wife should ponder deeply3 ,where the husband is an intellectual man1 and engaged in intellectual pursuits1 good cookery assumes a tenfold importance1 as the want of physical exercise entailed by most intellectual occupations renders it imperative that all food eaten shall be of first-class quality and cooked to perfection4 ,the most intellectual man in existence ceases to be intellectual while he has a couple of pounds or so of bad food slowly decaying in his stomach instead of digesting4 ,is ,a ,young ,girl's ideal of married life to have the man she loves always bright and cheerful1 always intellectual1 and generally at his best1 and to have as strong and healthy1 and even brighter and better company1 at sixty and seventy than at twenty-four8 ,i am sure it is4 ,then let her give him a chance of realizing that ideal by giving the utmost attention to his dinners1 so that the food he eats is on his stomach and brain like feathers1 and not like lead4 ,if she wishes him to degenerate into an ill-tempered1 exacting grumbler before forty1 or to prefer dining anywhere rather than at home1 then let her devote herself wholly to the drawing-room department of the house1 and leave the kitchen and the dining-room to hired servants4 ,good cooks quickly become bad ones where the mistress neglects personal superintendence1 and just so long as ladies have a soul above cookery will ill-temper and dyspepsia1 with all their consequent train of ills and discomforts1 be the rule1 and not the exception1 in middle-class ,english homes4 ,,the ,,social ,,caste ,,of ,,cooks4 ,one of the most amazing phenomena in the ,united ,states is the great number of girls of all classes who consider kitchen work beneath them and not worthy of serious attention4 ,girls of the working classes are not in the least ashamed to confess their absolute ignorance of the art of cooking1 though they know that after marriage they must cook for their families4 ,then they bewail their fate if their husbands1 tormented by dyspepsia1 seek relief in strong drink4 ,france1 it has often been said1 is on the whole a sober nation because it is a nation of good cooks4 ,american girls should remember that1 as a ,chicago expert has testified1 few men abandon or get a divorce from a woman who is a good cook4 ,the most amazing of our young women are the factory workers and shop-girls who imagine they are of a higher social caste than cooks1 and look down on them4 ,what makes this attitude the more ridiculous is that the mothers of all these girls were cooks 7mostly very bad ones67 and that all of these girls themselves1 when they marry1 must spend much of their time in the kitchen4 ,to be sure1 they are not paid for this work1 as professional cooks are4 ,some of the social reformers are now demanding that husbands pay their wives for domestic work4 ,if that point should be carried1 what would be the social status of the wives--nine out of every ten in the country--who cook for their families8 ,in future1 if there is any looking down1 it will be done by the cooks1 whose work is infinitely more elevating1 refined1 scientific and artistic than that of factory and shop girls1 who1 instead of enjoying the cooks' splendid opportunities for exercising their brains1 their taste1 and their inventive powers1 are reduced to the level of mere machines by the deadly monotony of having to make so and so many dozen shirt-waists or paper boxes1 or ruining their health by standing behind a counter1 serving the same things1 day after day and year after year1 to customers most of whom look down on them as being of a lower social status4 ,that settles the foolish notion that ,american girls refuse to become cooks because they do not wish to lose social caste4 ,society women are no more addicted to inviting the girls who wait on them in stores to their banquets or teas than they are the girls who wait on them at home or preside over their kitchens4 ,moreover1 no mistress would dare to treat her cook so contemptuously1 so insultingly1 as shop girls and factory girls are often treated1 or as chorus girls are treated habitually on the stage4 ,french supremacy is demonstrated in many ways1 not the least of which is the recognition1 generations ago1 of the noble status of the cook1 domestic or professional4 ,it may not be literally true that ,french girls read cookery-books with the avidity with which ours read novels1 but certainly they are proud of their ability to cook savory dishes4 ,an article in the ,new ,york ,times 7,february #aa1 #aiab7 on the most exclusive clubs in ,paris1 where the chefs receive the salaries of ambassadors1 states that members have obtained permission for their daughters--young women1 belonging to well-known ,french families--to be present in the kitchen while the head cook is preparing dinner every afternoon4 ,while the chef officiates in front of the huge furnace which stands in the center of the kitchen he is surrounded by a group of fashionably dressed young women1 who follow all his movements with the greatest interest and listen eagerly to his explanations as he initiates them into the mysteries of his art4 ,the ,french cuisine is preminent to-day because a century ago the daughters of the best ,french houses were taught to cook4 ,and1 as ,anatole ,france has remarked1 these girls knew that there is no humiliation in washing dishes4 ,to be sure1 dish washing1 as done at present1 is monotonous and hardly entertaining4 ,but if we tried to avoid all things in this world that are monotonous and not entertaining1 what would happen8 ,my own work includes some hours of daily drudgery4 ,what busy man's or woman's doesn't8 ,why discriminate against the kitchen8 ,read ,marion ,harland's delightful little book on ,household ,management 7,new ,york3 ,home ,topics ,publishing ,co41 #bc ,duane ,st472 you can do it in an hour and you will benefit particularly by the chapter on ,fine ,art in ',drudgery1' in which1 writes the distinguished author1 ,i give a recipe for dishwashing as carefully and with as much pleasure as ,i would write out directions for making an especially delicious entre or dessert4 ,women and men who prepare for the stage1 dramatic or musical1 have to undergo an enormous amount of drudgery and keep it up all their lives4 ,in the summer of #aiab ,i heard the greatest of all pianists1 ,paderewski1 daily practising elementary five-finger exercises1 and he admitted that it took great strength of will to keep it up2 but he knows the truth of the remark once made by ,hans von ,blow that if he neglected his practicing one day he knew it2 if two days1 his friends knew it2 if three days1 the public knew it4 ,that is a kind of drudgery compared with which dishwashing is a picnic4 ,most dishwashers1 moreover1 dawdle dreadfully4 ,they could do their work in one half if not one quarter the time it takes them4 ,see the remarks of the astonished ,isabella ,bird ,bishop in her book on the ,rocky ,mountains on the way she saw two young bachelors disposing of their kitchen work in the twinkle of an eye4 ,,royalty ,,in ,,the ,,kitchen4 ,england is in a state of transition4 ,as the ,london ,times 7,october #bi1 #aiaj7 remarked1 there are in that country many women who would be proud1 and even consider it rather smart1 to cook a dish of savory eggs in a chafing-dish on a silver-strewn sideboard1 but who would nevertheless be ashamed to say that they could knead and bake a loaf of bread which could rival that made by their cooks4 ,a change is1 however1 impending1 and the good example comes from those socially highest up4 ,queen ,victoria's daughters had to spend many hours in the kitchen1 and the present ,queen also is1 as the ,times informs us1 an expert cook1 and altogether a pattern mother and a skilled housekeeper1 who would put many middle-class mistresses to shame by her accurate and up-to-date knowledge of details4 ,queen ,alexandra was the chief patroness of the ,universal ,cookery and ,food ,association1 founded in #ahhe4 ,noblesse oblige4 ,the ,english royal family feels that it is its duty to set a good example to the women of the whole country in this matter1 and the example is being followed widely4 ,there is1 indeed1 a nationwide awakening in the ,united ,kingdom regarding the importance of the culinary art1 as we shall see in a moment1 in considering the subject of cooking in schools4 ,sarah baked and cooked for ,abraham1 though she could command as many servants as a queen4 ,it would be easy to give a long list of queens and other women of the highest nobility who recognized the nobility of the art of cooking by their interest and participation in it4 ,kings1 too1 have not held it beneath their dignity to prepare savory dishes with their own hands4 ,louis ,,xviii invented the truffes la pure d'ortolans1 and always prepared the dish himself1 assisted by the ,duc d',escars4 ,frederick the ,great was too busy with his political work and his flute to spend his time in the kitchen1 but he wrote a poem in praise of his cook4 ,in ,germany1 as in ,england1 it is obligatory on the princesses of the ,empire to learn how to cook a good meal2 and the daughters of the aristocracy of all grades follow their example4 ,louis ,,xiii prepared his own game1 and prided himself on his preserves1 while ,louis ,,xv also was an amateur cook4 ,he was particularly fond of making rich sauces4 ,under ,louis ,,xiv ,cond won international fame as inventor of an improved bean soup4 ,a ,papal ,cook ,book was printed in ,venice in #aegj by order of ,pope ,pius ,v4 ,richelieu and ,mazarin invented dishes still named after them4 ,the philosopher ,montaigne wrote a book on the science of eating 7,science de la gueule74 ,sauce ,colbert is named after the statesman who originated it4 ,bchamel was immortalized by a new sauce of his concoction4 ,when ,carme went with ,lord ,stuart1 the ,english ,ambassador to ,vienna1 he was treated as a personal friend4 ,louis ,,xviii1 ,george ,,iv and other crowned heads vied for his allegiance but he preferred to bestow the benefit of his supreme art on ,rothschild in ,paris to whom he had been presented by ,prince ,louis ,rohan4 ,volumes might be written regarding the personal interest in culinary art taken by rulers of all kinds4 ,the highest form of royalty is genius4 ,in ,france1 particularly1 the rulers in the world of science1 art1 and literature have been as devoted gastronomes as the political rulers2 and with astonishing frequency these great men have taken not merely an epicurean interest in the pleasures of the table1 but have endeavored to multiply them4 ,striking confirmation of this statement may be found in ,l',art du ,bien ,manger1 by ,gustave ,geffroy and ,edmond ,richardin1 #cge pages of which are devoted1 under the heading ,ecrivains ,cuisiniers1 to the recipes of dishes originated and promulgated by well-known men of letters1 among them such eminent writers as ,alexandre ,dumas1 father and son1 ,andr ,theuriet1 ,jules ,claretie1 ,edmond ,rostand1 etc4 ,lord ,bacon thought it no shame1 as ,frederick ,w4 ,hackwood recalls1 to bend his mighty intellect to the problems of the kitchen4 ,david ,hume1 on retiring from public life1 declared that he would devote the remaining years of his life to the science of cooking4 ,henry ,,viii made a gift of a manor to his cook for originating a good pudding1 and royal honors have been paid to many culinary inventors4 ,by the ancient ,romans ,apicius was almost deified for discovering how to maintain oysters fresh and alive during long journeys4 ,in ,athens ,dionysos was highly esteemed as the inventor of bread2 in his honor there were street processions of men carrying loaves4 ,illustration3 ,a fifteenth century kitchen in ,france ,,rossini1 ,,car,,me ,,and ,,paderewski4 ,just as ,caruso is prouder of the caricatures he draws than of his achievements as the leading tenor of his time1 so ,rossini prided himself more on his skill in dressing a salad than on his having written successful operas4 ,he frequently delighted his guests with dishes prepared by himself1 and used to declare1 half seriously1 that he had missed his vocation4 ,one day1 when a friend1 taking him at his word1 asked him why he had not become a cook1 he replied that he would have done so had not his early education been too much neglected4 ,a famous ,french chef1 proud of his profession1 declared that while there have been musicians and other artists who were already famous at the age of twenty1 preminence in cooking has never occurred under the more mature age of thirty4 ,carme1 at an early age1 had the ambition1 as he relates in his memoirs1 of elevating his profession to an art4 ,for ten years he studied with the most eminent chefs1 besides reading books and taking notes like a scholar4 ,like all genuine artists1 he was grateful for true appreciation of his art4 ,of ,talleyrand he wrote3 ,he understands the genius of a cook1 he respects it1 he is the most competent judge of delicate progress1 and his expenditures are wise and great at the same time4 ,why do not great culinary artists abound in ,america8 ,because there is too little appreciation of their art4 ,paderewski1 in his chteau on the shores of ,lake ,geneva1 where he lives like a king of epicures1 thanks to the intelligent and artistic housekeeping of his devoted wife 7the ,baroness of ,rosen71 told me an anecdote which illustrates this point4 ,during one of his first tours in the ,united ,states he enjoyed a dinner which was equal to anything he could have expected in one of the best ,parisian restaurants4 ,he was so surprised and pleased that he sent his thanks and compliments to the chef4 ,a few years later1 happening to be in the same city1 he again went to that restaurant4 ,the meal he got was still far above the average1 but was not as good as before4 ,however1 on the occasion of a third visit1 he again tried the same place4 ,the food was uninteresting from the beginning of the meal to the end4 ,he asked the head waiter whether the former chef had left4 ,he had not left1 the waiter informed him2 and1 on being pressed for an explanation of the change in the quality of the meals1 he said3 ,if you had to play1 night after night1 before an audience of barbarians who did not appreciate the best things in your performances1 would you continue1 year after year1 to play as well as you do now8 ,paderewski had to confess to him that1 in all probability1 he would not4 ,,looking ,,down ,,on ,,others4 ,in my career as a musical critic ,i have found that ,i could do much more toward improving the artistic doings of singers and players by praising their best things than by finding fault with their poorest4 ,in the culinary art1 likewise1 the reader will find that far better results are reached by praising the cook for her successes than by never speaking to her except to find fault4 ,it makes her try to earn more praise1 not only in the making of that particular dish but in the making of others4 ,above all things1 a mistress who expects artistic dishes from a superior cook should never appear to be looking down on her4 ,this looking down business1 perhaps more than anything else1 stands in the way of our getting good cooks4 ,at the same time1 perhaps more than anything else1 it shows what fools these mortals be4 ,all over the country1 but particularly in the ,west1 ,i have found that most families look down on other families4 ,it is chiefly a question of money4 ,those who have an income of #c1jjj look down on those who have only #a1jjj or #a1ejj1 while those who have #aj1jjj do all they can to show their superiority to three-thousanders1 only to be1 in turn1 snubbed by those whose income is #bj1jjj2 and so on4 ,one day in a ,california village where ,i was spending the winter1 ,i was surprised at the rudeness of a storekeeper with whom ,i had had some pleasant chats4 ,he hardly answered my questions2 in fact1 he snubbed me4 ,i found out next day that he had just inherited a large fortune1 a piece of luck which he celebrated by promptly looking down on everybody he knew4 ,as a rule1 however1 ,i regret to say1 the women are more addicted than the men to this preposterously silly habit of looking down on others4 ,not to speak of its being extremely ill-mannered it is the most deadly obstacle to the solution of the problem of domestic help4 ,we shall never have a sufficient supply of good helpers until mistresses recognize the fact that cooking is a fine art1 and that those who practise it should be treated1 not as servants1 but as practitioners of the most important profession in the world--a profession which stands to the medical in the relation of prevention to cure2 and that prevention is better than cure we all know4 ,it's cheaper1 too4 ,an old ,english writer has justly remarked that the kitchen is the best pharmacopia4 ,f4 ,w4 ,hackwood calls attention to the suggestive fact that all the best old cookery books in the ,english language were written by medical men4 ,sir ,kenelm ,digby and ,dr4 ,mayerne in the seventeenth century1 ,dr4 ,mill and ,dr4 ,hunter in the eighteenth1 and ,dr4 ,kitchiner in the nineteenth gave to the world the best ,english cookery books of their respective eras4 ,queen ,anne's physician1 ,dr4 ,lister1 declared that no man can be a good physician who has not a competent knowledge of cookery4 ,that is the opinion prevalent among the best medical men of to-day1 who hold correct advice in regard to diet and the proper cooking of the food recommended to be usually of more importance than drugs4 ,many thousands of invalids have been killed by improper or badly cooked food4 ,the foolish factory and shop girls who look down on kitchen work should be reminded of the fact that none of the contributors to the pages of the various women's journals are more honored than those who are famed for their skill in cooking and giving others the benefit of their experience4 ,some of these women1 like ,mrs4 ,rorer1 ,marion ,harland1 ,mrs4 ,lincoln1 ,christine ,terhune ,herrick1 ,janet ,mac,kenzie ,hill1 ,mary ,ronald1 and ,helen ,s4 ,wright1 have won international repute4 ,it is a curious fact that whereas in ,europe most of the cook books have been written by men1 in ,america the authors of such books are mostly women4 ,from ,american women1 with their keen intelligence and good taste1 great things may be expected in the way of gastronomic progress4 ,after the appearance in the ,century ,magazine of my brief remarks on the nobility of the art of cookery ,i heard of a wealthy young lady 7,i hope and believe there were many others7 who was impelled1 after reading them1 to take up cooking and found it so fascinating that she neglected all her other pet diversions4 ,i know educated young ladies who would rather cook than do anything else except1 perhaps1 go to the theater2 they find it so entertaining and engrossing4 ,many anecdotes might be related of women known to fame who love kitchen work4 ,to take only one case3 ,mrs4 ,champ ,clark1 who came so near being first lady of the land1 is a noted cook and domestic science expert4 ,one who knows her writes that she does much of her own cooking1 especially when intimate friends dine with her and they rave over her dishes4 ,it has the good old ,southern taste1 and is minus the fingle-fangle garnishments often employed to cover up inferiority4 ,mrs4 ,clark's bread is a delight1 and when she has the opportunity she always bakes it herself4 ,she took first prize in a bread-baking contest once4 ,she holds that such labor is not undignified for any of the first ladies of the land4 ,the word 'servant' has been much abused1 its early meaning 'to serve' being beautiful1 and certainly there is nothing better than to do something for somebody4 ,there are signs that the ladies of our time will take up the culinary art as a fashionable cult1 as did the ladies of the ,french aristocracy in the seventeenth century4 ,many ,american society women are expert cooks and delight in inventing and concocting diverse dishes4 ,one of the wealthiest women in the world is ,mrs4 ,george ,j4 ,gould4 ,in summer1 in her ,adirondack camp1 she spends much time in the kitchen helping to cook and to make preserves and jams4 ,she has1 it is said1 a perfect genius for combining things and creating new sensations of taste4 ,her children1 boys as well as girls1 understand cooking in all its branches4 ,grace ,aspinwall1 in the ,national ,food ,magazine 7,may1 #aiaj7 gives details regarding the culinary doings of other society women--,mrs4 ,philip ,lydig1 ,mrs4 ,joseph ,widener1 ,mrs4 ,norman de ,r4 ,whitehouse1 ,mrs4 ,oliver ,harriman and ,mrs4 ,w4 ,k4 ,vanderbilt1 ,jr4 ,mrs4 ,woodrow ,wilson is also fond of cooking1 and after her husband was elected ,president of the ,united ,states the newspapers printed pictures of her at work in the kitchen4 ,,does ,,cooking ,,pay8 ,the profitableness of the art also is a point not to be overlooked at a time when all professions1 except cooking1 are so overcrowded4 ,had ,rossini become a chef1 he would not have earned nearly as much money as he did with his operas4 ,but he was exceptionally successful4 ,the vast majority of musicians1 and other artists of all kinds and grades1 have not only much more drudgery to undergo than cooks1 but they also have much less chance to boast of a fat bank account4 ,the best chefs command #e1jjj to #aj1jjj a year with free board and lodging4 ,not to speak of other advantages1 what a splendid chance this gives them to look down on people who earn less6 ,the average income of physicians1 clergymen1 and teachers in the ,united ,states is about #fjj a year1 and it is not rising steadily like that of cooks4 ,the better class of plain cooks now get1 in ,new ,york1 #be to #cj a month with room and board4 ,such a cook can easily put into the savings bank #bjj to #cjj a year1 or half as much as is earned by the physicians1 clergymen1 and teachers1 who have to pay for their board and lodging4 ,does cooking pay8 ,illustration ,,vi ,,the ,,future ,,of ,,cooking ,,school ,,girls ,,like ,,it4 ,respect for the noble art of cooking is being greatly enhanced by its introduction into our public and private schools as an important branch of education4 ,when this innovation was first suggested1 the funny men of the newspapers seized on it as a welcome new subject for their jokes and cartoons1 and even now not a few persons who have given the question insufficient thought speak of cookery as one of the fads and frills of our schools4 ,but at a budget hearing in ,october1 #aiaj1 ,dr4 ,w4 ,h4 ,maxwell1 ,superintendent of the ,new ,york ,city ,public ,schools1 made the memorable statement that he considered the retention of cooking-lessons more important than the study of languages4 ,he might have gone further2 he might have said that because health is more important than learning1 therefore cookery is more important than anything else now taught in our schools4 ,it is useless to say that cooking should be taught at home4 ,most mothers1 especially among the working classes1 have neither the time nor the knowledge to teach their daughters how to prepare food rationally4 ,recognizing this fact1 the ,young ,women's ,christian ,association also began some years ago to provide culinary lessons4 ,one of the reasons for this action may be found in a statement made in the ,twenty-seventh ,report of the ,new ,york ,cooking ,school1 that good coffee and a palatable meal often remove the need of strong drink1 and many a working-woman has had her cares lightened by the child who has learned to cook4 ,an ,english girl1 who had thus been taught1 said3 ,mother tells me she'd make a drop of nice broth for the children out of an old bone as she'd have thrown away4 ,a glimpse of future possibilities is given by an experiment made in six ,chicago schools1 with #a1bjj pupils4 ,the boys in the manual-training classes made fireless cookers1 and the girls did the rest4 ,one result was a rich1 palatable soup costing one cent a bowl4 ,the most encouraging aspect of the situation is that both in ,england and in ,america the experience has been that the children like the cooking best of all their lessons and are glad to practise them at home4 ,as one principal wrote1 ,the cooking has been enthusiastically received by the pupils1 and the parents are heartily in favor of it4 ,illustration3 ,,cooking ,,class ,,at ,,the ,,wadleigh ,,high ,,school ,,boys ,,and ,,soldiers ,,as ,,cooks4 ,schoolboys also should1 and will1 be taught4 ,they can help their mothers at home--why not8--especially in daughterless families2 and there are many occasions in life--when the wife is ill1 or when men are serving in the army or camping--when such knowledge will prove useful4 ,apart from practical considerations1 it has an educational value1 too1 training1 as it does1 the memory1 the power of observation1 the senses of taste and smell1 and the inventive faculty1 besides inculcating neatness and cleanliness4 ,there are times when men who can cook receive better pay than most others1 though their work be both easier and pleasanter4 ,for instance1 in an article entitled ,in ,canada's ,wilderness1 which appeared in the ,new ,york ,evening ,post of ,september #a1 #aiaj1 the writer described the trip of a prospecting party through a section of the ,northwest which was tapped by the ,grand ,trunk ,pacific ,railroad4 ,speaking of the cooks1 he said that they were good cooks1 and a good cook in that country is almost worth his weight in fine rubies4 ,they are paid from #ge to #hj a month1 and receive housing and bedding4 ,this is more money than any of the other men about an engineering camp receive1 except the engineer himself4 ,one of these cooks had been manager and part owner of a great tea plantation in ,ceylon2 another had been an officer in a ,british regiment and had served in the ,south ,african ,war4 ,he had just sold #ab1jjj worth of property in ,edmonton4 ,the ,london ,daily ,mail of ,june #bj1 #aiab1 gives an account of an ,oxford cooking school which has a special class for men who wish to learn to cook4 ,it is well attended and the men1 so the teacher says1 are very keen about the work1 and much keener than the women would be as to details4 ,nothing escapes their attention4 ,the men work in pairs with the simplest of utensils1 and each lesson extends over an hour4 ,special stress is laid upon frying and stewing1 and upon the different meals that can be prepared in a pot or pan over a camp fire4 ,they are taught the various ways of cooking vegetables1 of making meat pies1 and how to produce such delicacies as pancakes and scrambled or poached eggs4 ,each lesson affords time for cooking three dishes1 and at the conclusion a number of recipes are given1 and these are duly recorded for future reference4 ,the ,london ,county ,council began to encourage boys in the autumn of #aiaj when a school for teaching them how to cook was started4 ,there were fifteen pupils4 ,two years later there were forty4 ,it is only a small beginning1 but from such an avalanche may grow4 ,the aim of the school was stated to be to equip boys between fourteen and sixteen with a knowledge of practical cookery to enable them to fill positions as cooks in first-class hotels1 clubs1 and restaurants4 ,the course lasts three years and positions are guaranteed at the end4 ,according to official statistics1 #ajf boys in ,england attended cookery classes during #aiaj-aa4 ,soldiers in all countries have to do a good deal of camp cooking1 and they seem to enjoy it4 ,circular #aa of the ,united ,states ,bureau of ,animal ,industry is concerned with army cooking4 ,the #aiab report of ,brig4-,gen4 ,henry ,g4 ,shaw1 ,commissary ,general1 shows that great advantage has resulted from the schools for bakers and cooks that have been established at ,fort ,riley1 ,kansas ,city1 as well as at the ,barracks in ,washington and at the ,presidio in ,san ,francisco4 ,during the year #bec cooks1 #aca bakers and #eb mess sergeants have been turned out by the schools as experts4 ,an ,english translation has been published 7,london3 ,forster ,ground ,co47 of the ,french ,manual of ,field ,cookery entitled ,livre de ,cuisine ,militaire aux ,manuvres et en ,campagne4 ,it is a pamphlet of #ce pages1 including specifications and pictures of necessary utensils1 with simple recipes1 and a preface by the ,french ,war ,minister1 who remarks1 among other things1 that it is no longer enough to appoint certain men to the duties of cooks1 but it is necessary that every man 444 should be able to prepare his own food and that of any of his comrades1 who may not be in a position to do so1 by means of the simple apparatus available4 ,in continental countries there are many cooking schools for men4 ,in ,copenhagen1 for instance1 as we read in the ,lancet1 there is an old frigate moored in a canal close to the most fashionable center of the town4 ,here there is a school for ship's cooks4 ,on board a ship with the limited space such as prevails at sea young cooks try their 'prentice hands at making dishes such as are served to passengers on sea voyages4 ,there is an awning on the deck1 tables are laid out1 and numerous inhabitants of ,copenhagen take their meals there1 for they are both varied and inexpensive4 ,thus fully qualified cooks are being prepared for the sea1 and it is not necessary to point out that1 whether at sea or on shore1 efficient cooking not only adds to the joys of life but is a very necessary aid to digestion4 ,,traveling ,,cooking ,,schools4 ,in some parts of ,germany traveling cooking schools have been organized by the ,government4 ,in ,prussia it is intended to provide one of them for every county4 ,these schools move from place to place1 remaining long enough in each to give instruction in housekeeping to the daughters of laborers1 craftsmen1 and farmers4 ,in the case of the farm girls the instruction includes the caretaking of animals1 poultry culture1 and the raising of fruits and vegetables4 ,all the girls are taught to cook1 to sew1 to repair and clean clothing1 and to keep the house clean1 with other things relating to health and nutrition4 ,one of the principal objects of these itinerant schools is to encourage the cultivation of a greater variety of vegetables in the home gardens4 ,in most of the ,thuringian villages1 for instance1 it is said that the only kind of vegetable known is cabbage4 ,the teachers have had considerable difficulty in introducing variety1 for the ,german peasant1 like the lower classes everywhere1 wants to eat only what he has had since his childhood4 ,but once tasted the new vegetables are usually welcomed and acclimated in the villages visited by the itinerant culinary missionaries4 ,,english ,,school ,,dinners4 ,while the ,english are not gastronomically eminent among the nations of ,europe1 they are attaching more and more importance to kitchen work1 especially in schools1 in which lies the chief hope for the cooking of the future4 ,this growing interest was illustrated by the ,conference on ,diet in ,public1 ,secondary1 and ,private ,schools held in ,london in the last week of ,may1 #aiab4 ,prominent experts made addresses1 discussing the question of school diet from various points of view4 ,the ,daily ,telegraph of ,may #cj1 in concluding its account of the ,conference1 made some remarks which are quoted herewith1 as they give a vivid glimpse of the admirable culinary work that is evidently being now done in ,english schools3 ,of recent years more and more attention has been paid to the dietary in schools1 and the general teaching of cookery will help on an improvement in a department of social life in which we are behind our ,continental neighbors4 ,happily1 there are a considerable number of schools in which the menus are drawn up on well-ascertained principles1 including the element of variety4 ,here is an example of dinners served at a large school at #h;d4 each to over #ajj children4 ,it is chosen from those used from ,may #ac to ,may #ag3 ,,monday4 ,boiled ,beef and ,carrots4 ,roast ,mutton4 ,greens and ,potatoes4 ,cake ,pudding4 ,milk ,pudding4 ,,tuesday4 ,veal and ,ham4 ,beefsteak ,pie4 ,greens and ,potatoes4 ,jam ,roly-,poly4 ,milk ,pudding4 ,,wednesday4 ,roast ,beef4 ,haricot ,mutton4 ,rissoles4 ,greens and ,potatoes4 ,fruit ,salad and ,sponge ,cake4 ,milk ,pudding4 ,,thursday4 ,roast ,mutton4 ,stewed ,steak4 ,potato ,pie4 ,greens and ,potatoes4 ,ginger ,pudding4 ,milk ,pudding4 ,,friday4 ,fish4 ,roast ,beef4 ,liver and ,bacon4 ,greens and ,potatoes4 ,rhubarb ,tart4 ,cabinet ,pudding4 ,if these menus reappear in the same order or connection it will be at a very distant date4 ,the aim is to supply all the kinds of food necessary1 and in a form the girls like4 ,pies1 stews1 and rissoles are great favorites1 stews being the chief4 ,this is fortunate1 because a dish of stew of any kind is rich in fat and protein1 and if vegetables are added it becomes rich in salts too4 ,the girls state each day at dinner which meat they wish for1 and they help themselves to greens and potatoes4 ,if they want a second helping of meat they can have it1 but it is an unwritten law that they must finish all they take4 ,it is also understood that if a girl does not eat her dinner she is not fit for afternoon school4 ,this rule prevents elder girls getting the foolish notion that it is not 'nice' to have a good appetite4 ,cookery is part of the curriculum1 so that sooner or later every girl learns the importance of food1 and that it is useless to try to 'make bricks without straw'--in fact1 the dinners are a practical illustration of the teaching in the cookery room4 ,the notion that it is not nice for a girl to have a good appetite is not so common as it used to be4 ,now that we know the importance of appetite to proper digestion this notion seems criminal as well as silly1 and should be denounced as such in all schools where it may seem necessary4 ,like some of the ,continental countries1 ,england now also has traveling cooking schools4 ,according to educational ,blue ,books issued in ,august1 #aiab1 the record for the teaching of domestic science in #aiaj-aa included under the head of cookery #cbg1ebf scholars4 ,concerning the traveling schools we read with reference to the ,north3 ,the county authority have provided a traveling van as a center for cookery teaching throughout the country districts4 ,the van is practically a movable room1 carefully planned1 with satisfactory arrangements1 and has so far answered admirably4 ,the van remains for four weeks at each school visited1 and where two classes of girls can be provided1 lessons are given both morning and afternoon on each day4 ,it is used as a center for classes formed from other schools 7if any7 within walking distance4 ,when the van was at ,sutton some girls walked two to three miles1 but made no difficulty about the distance4 ,the teacher is usually besieged by applications to admit older girls--and even women--to the classes4 ,housewifery is now taught as well as cookery4 ,the van makes a pleasant little room1 and the girls enjoy their work and do it very well4 ,the ,north ,riding authority have now built a second van1 which is already in use4 ,norfolk has a teacher who remains in a village for a fortnight1 the children attending classes in a convenient kitchen of a farmhouse1 adapted club-room1 barn1 c41 all day and every day during the fortnight4 ,the inspectors show that already the influence of these classes has had a reflex in the homes4 ,,progress ,,in ,,america4 ,as far back as #ahce household economics was taught in young women's seminaries of the ,united ,states1 as we are informed by ,benjamin ,r4 ,andrews of the ,school of ,industrial and ,household ,arts at ,columbia ,university4 ,in #aiab there were over #acj schools which gave collegiate degrees for proficiency in the courses in home-making1 and it was clear from the way things were going that ere long every woman's college and high school in the country would have a domestic science department1 if only to meet the competition of the ,domestic ,science schools which are springing up everywhere4 ,these special schools for home-making turn out the really up-to-date girls--the girls whom young men want to marry4 ,in recognition of the growing importance of this branch of education ,representative ,wilson of ,illinois introduced1 in #aiaa1 a bill providing that a ,bureau of ,domestic ,science be established in the ,department of ,agriculture1 with the object of investigating methods and appliances for the preparation of food and of gathering information to be used in training the boys as well as the girls of the schools and colleges in household and institutional management4 ,in #aiaj there were in the elementary schools of ,chicago only #ge kitchens available for use in giving the girls practical instruction in the art of cooking4 ,in view of the fact that at least eight out of every ten girls in these schools are fated to spend a part of their lives in the kitchen1 the superintendent of schools1 ,mrs4 ,ella ,flagg ,young started an agitation to have this number increased to #bej4 ,in commenting on this subject the ,chicago ,tribune remarked3 ,a girl who has to hold in after life solemn communion with stew-pans and gridirons had better learn in advance how to use them4 ,it will save her mortification1 bitter tears1 and scoldings4 ,not every husband takes the matter as calmly as the brute who1 when his young wife met him with tears in her eyes and the information that the cat had eaten the first pie she had made for him1 replied3 ,don't cry1 dear2 we can easily get another cat6 ,bad cooking drives a man to drink sooner than anything else4 ,many honeymoons are shortened by home-made dyspeptic pangs4 ,poor food ruins dispositions as well as digestions4 ,fashionable private schools are adding cookery to their subjects1 ,i am informed2 and the girls have lots of fun with it4 ,a wise thing2 for even if these girls marry men who are wealthy enough to hire a cook they ought to know something about culinary art--the more the better--so they can tell the cook how they want things4 ,cooks in general are not so bad as they are painted4 ,many of them are simply inexperienced and glad to learn the better way4 ,i know this from abundant experience in my own household1 and ,i bless the stars that ,i have a wife who can tell what's wrong and how to mend it4 ,most of the public schools in ,new ,york and many other cities now have courses in household science1 including cooking4 ,in the high schools attention is given1 among other things1 to the adulteration of foods and its detection2 to the effects of certain bacteria1 useful or harmful1 on foods2 to nutritive values2 to the physiology of digestion2 to money and labor-saving appliances2 nursing and diet for the sick2 cost of living2 home sanitation2 home-made fireless cookers2 food adulteration2 cooking as a moral agent2 etc4 ,the courses vary somewhat in different schools1 but that all of them tend to domestic happiness and lowering of the death rate is certain4 ,there are indications that working girls are beginning to realize the gross injustice of marrying without having learned how to cook a palatable and digestible meal4 ,the ,new ,york ,sun of ,january #ae1 #aiaa1 had an interesting article telling how ,miss ,mary ,e4 ,brockman started evening classes in cooking1 largely for girls about to be married4 ,some of them have worked in factories and shops for years1 yet hardly know an eggbeater from a potato-ricer4 ,they are eager to learn and make good pupils4 ,it might seem hard to work all day in a factory and spend two or three hours in the evening mixing flour or braising meat1 but evidently several hundred young women find it almost a relaxation4 ,once started1 the subject becomes increasingly fascinating4 ,increasingly fascinating4 ,bear that in mind4 ,in cooking1 as in piano-playing1 and everything else1 the drudgery comes first1 but increasing skill brings satisfaction and joy to the artist cook--not to speak of the husband1 the children1 and the guests4 ,and this joy lasts as long as life itself4 ,there is in ,new ,york an ,association for the ,improvement of the ,condition of the ,poor which1 in #aiaa1 was teaching #ej1jjj little mothers how to cook while their parents are away working4 ,one of its main objects is to show the families how to economize intelligently4 ,the fact that so many children as well as adults in our cities are so undernourished and so liable to disease is largely due to the spending of money on foolish1 unnutritious1 or harmful things4 ,by simply substituting cereals and soups for their poisonous tea and soggy cake1 thousands of suffering families can be rescued4 ,the ,little ,mothers even get some simple notions as to the chemistry of food and the advisability of not having too much of one kind1 as the following1 from the ,new ,york ,evening ,post1 shows3 ,girls1 said ,mrs4 ,burns to a group of small cooks one day1 ,i am going to give a luncheon1 and this is what ,i am going to have3 bean soup1 pot roast1 canned corn1 white potatoes1 and rice pudding4 ,do you think that will make a nice luncheon8 ,up came a small hand4 ,well1 what is it8 asked ,mrs4 ,burns4 ,too much starch1 said the solemn cook4 ,a book will doubtless be written some day showing by vivid illustrations how many of the problems of charity1--crime1 poverty1 and the prevention of disease and intemperance--can be solved by attention to rational cooking4 ,ignorant feeding kills thousands of infants every month the country over4 ,it is therefore a crime not to include food and feeding in the subjects of study in schools--all the more as most girls get no instruction whatever after they leave school at fourteen4 ,there will be fewer complaints about high prices when all girls are taught not only how to prepare a meal but how to buy food knowingly4 ,as the ,new ,york ,world has forcibly remarked3 ,if women would pay half as much attention to the fluctuating prices of food as they pay to the prices of dress goods1--or as the men pay to the stock-ticker--and shop half as assiduously for the one as they do for the other1 one of the worst phases of the high-cost-of-living problem would be met at the start4 ,it is almost startling to find that the schooling of boys and girls in domestic science works the miracle of solving the important problem of how to keep boys and girls on the farm4 ,professor ,benson of the ,department of ,agriculture relates how1 in #aijg1 he asked the teachers of thirty-four schools in ,iowa how many of the boys and girls expected to remain on the farm when grown up4 ,the answers were most discouraging4 ,provision was then made for giving up-to-date instruction in scientific farming to the boys and in rational household management to the girls4 ,three years later account was again taken1 and it was found that whereas in #aijg all but #aa out of #agd girls wanted to leave the farm1 in #aiaj1 after being educated1 only #ag out of #agh girls persisted in going to the city4 ,progress in ,america is being greatly accelerated by the various women's clubs which are working in the interest of the food question4 ,also1 by ,good ,housekeeping1 ,the ,ladies' ,home ,journal1 ,the ,woman's ,home ,companion1 ,the ,housekeeper1 and a host of other magazines1 which monthly publish not only columns of recipes but helpful articles of all sorts bearing on household science and management4 ,all things considered the outlook seems bright4 ,characteristically ,american are the free lectures on cooking1 with demonstrations1 given in some of our large department stores4 ,good is also done by the booklets enclosed in many packages of food telling the purchaser of various ways of cooking it1 alone or in diverse combinations4 ,surely1 we are on the way to becoming a gastronomic nation6 ,,teaching ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,eating4 ,it is not enough that girls and boys at school should be taught to cook2 they should also learn how to eat4 ,few learn this at home4 ,they are usually taught table etiquette3 that they must eat silently1 and not take soup off the end of a spoon 7though that is the only rational way of doing it7 or put the knife into the mouth2 but the infinitely more important art of mastication is entirely ignored4 ,the art of eating is a branch of physiology and should be taught in all schools by experts1 the earlier the better4 ,if it were thus taught the next generation of mothers and fathers would know that it is a crime to let their children swallow food1 particularly milk and cereals and vegetables1 before it has been kept for a while in the mouth to be mixed with saliva and thus made digestible4 ,children 7and most adults1 too17 are like animals3 give them something good to eat and they gulp it down eagerly and then look around for more to stuff into their unfortunate stomachs4 ,when ,i was a boy1 a story in one of the readers1 entitled ,the ,stomach's ,complaint1 made an indelible impression on my mind1 and saved me many hours of the distress caused by overeating1 eating too fast1 or eating or drinking things too hot or too cold4 ,it should be indelibly impressed on all school children that gluttony is a vice which defeats its own end1 and that by eating very slowly much more pleasure can be got from one mouthful than by bolting a whole plateful4 ,one stick of candy can be made to yield more linked sweetness long-drawn-out than a dozen sticks as usually devoured4 ,moreover1 one stick will not cause hours of discomfort as the dozen sticks surely will2 and1 in addition1 it will cost much less1 thus leaving plenty of money to spend on other things4 ,surely this argument must appeal to all children who have brains enough to be worth schooling4 ,every child should also be told over and over again1 till the habit is formed1 that the pleasure derived from candy and cake and all food can be vastly increased and intensified by consciously breathing out through the nose while eating 7as explained on pages #fb-c7 and that this will be a further protection from indigestion4 ,if these truths were firmly impressed on all child minds1 two-thirds of the minor ills of mankind would disappear in two generations1 and most of the major maladies also2 for let me say it once more1 the stomach is the source of most preventable diseases4 ,,real ,,epicurism ,,is ,,economical4 ,the future of cooking and eating lies in the hands of millions of boys and girls now in our schools4 ,it should be made clear to them how important it is to their welfare to be real epicures1--that is1 persons who never eat too much1 who select their food with a fastidious taste1 and refuse to eat any that has no ,flavor1 or a wrong ,flavor4 ,were all of us1 or most of us1 epicures1 what a change our markets would undergo6 ,how the chemically denatured foods1 the tainted cold-storage fowls1 the drugged1 soggy bread1 the tasteless1 frozen butchers' meats1 would be swept away1 together with frozen1 unpalatable fish1 wilted vegetables1 unclean milk1 unripe and decayed fruits1 all of them the daily source of discomforts and disease 7often including ptomaine poisoning7 to thousands4 ,we must become a nation of epicures4 ,to be sure1 were we all as fastidious as gourmets are1 only the best foods would be tolerated in the markets1 and these cost more than the inferior grades4 ,but that will not worry any one who bears in mind the three cardinal principles of gastronomy which ,i am trying to emphasize in this book3 ,i4 ,the food from which we chiefly derive our nourishment is for the most part cheap4 ,,ii4 ,we need more or less expensive flavor in food to make it appetizing and digestible2 but1 fortunately1 ,,iii4 ,we need very little of the savory material to flavor a bountiful meal4 ,were we a nation of epicures1 making daily practical application of these three cardinal principles of culinary knowledge1 we could easily1 though getting always the best material1 live much more cheaply than we do now4 ,count ,rumford1 in a report on dietary experiments made by him in behalf of the ,bavarian ,government with its army1 dwelt particularly on the fact1 demonstrated by these trials1 that much more depends on the art and skill of the cook than on the sums laid out in the market4 ,the brain is mightier than the purse4 ,with brains in the kitchen you can live better on two or three thousand a year than on ten times that sum without brains4 ,to solve the high-cost-of-food problem we should therefore above all things labor to get educated cooks into our kitchens4 ,educated cooks can save us money4 ,the more they save us1 the more we can afford to pay them2 and the more we pay1 the easier will it become to persuade young women and men to become trained cooks4 ,let us1 therefore1 with all our might and main endeavor to make the culinary art and science an honored profession1 to which any one may feel proud to belong4 ,fortunately1 apart from all the things just considered which make for the popularity of cooking as a profession1 there are others of the utmost importance which must now be dwelt on4 ,in most hesitating minds one of the chief objections to cooking as at present practised is the drudgery it involves4 ,this drudgery is now being eliminated and will in a decade or two be reduced to a minimum4 ,,fireless ,,cookers4 ,while ,president ,tylor of the ,british ,anthropological ,institute was doubtless right in holding the opinion 7already referred to7 that cookery has done more than any other art to help mankind in its progress from savagery to civilization1 it is odd that the latest and socially1 as well as gastronomically1 most important phase of this art takes us back to practices similar to those of primitive man4 ,when ,darwin1 in his voyage round the world1 tarried in ,tahiti1 his native guides on a trip to the interior prepared for him a meal which he greatly enjoyed4 ,it consisted of pieces of beef1 fish1 and bananas1 wrapped in large leaves and placed between hot stones1 which were then covered with earth to keep in the heat4 ,in about a quarter of an hour the viands were most deliciously cooked4 ,one who has never had the good luck to taste1 at a ,new ,england picnic1 beans baked in the ground really does not know beans1 though his home be in ,boston4 ,nor does any one know the epicurean possibilities inherent in seafood unless he has attended a shore clam-bake1 at which lobsters1 clams1 and fish1 just out of the water and wrapped in layers of seaweed1 were cooked over heated stones1 the whole being covered with more seaweed to prevent the escape of the heat and the flavors4 ,in these customs we have a survival of the primitive method of cooking praised by ,darwin and numerous explorers and missionaries4 ,many of the benighted dwellers in our cities have never even heard of them2 but within the last few years thousands of our kitchens have been provided with an apparatus which combines the advantages of ,tahitian cooking and ,rhode ,island clam-bakes with modern conveniences--the cooking-boxes1 or fireless cookers1 which many rival manufacturers are now turning out by wholesale1 and which are destined1 in combination with gas and electricity1 to bring about within the next ten years a domestic revolution so complete and far-reaching that future historians1 in summing up the great achievements of the first quarter of the twentieth century1 will probably name as the three most important ones wireless telegraphy1 aviation1 and fireless cookery4 ,illustration3 ,fireless cookery in ,hawaii ,even in this rich country1 only one family in ten can afford to hire a cook1 and in the far ,west such a person is seldom obtainable at any price4 ,now1 by the fireless cooker all women who have to prepare their own meals are fast being emancipated from the hot-stove slavery1 which is particularly cruel in our sultry summers4 ,it makes it possible for them to cook breakfast1 luncheon1 and dinner at the same time1 in perhaps an hour1 leaving the rest of the day free for other work4 ,all they have to do is to heat the meat1 vegetables1 cereals1 or other viands on the stove for some minutes 7varying with different foods71 and then put them into the air-tight box1 which1 being lined with non-conducting substances1 cooks them thoroughly1 retaining all their flavors1 keeping them hot for six hours1 and warm for five or six longer4 ,there is a tradition among mistresses that cooks resent innovations in the kitchen2 but no domestic helper will ever balk at a box which eliminates so much of the kitchen drudgery4 ,the fireless cooker will therefore go far toward solving the most difficult of all domestic problems--that of getting some one to help us in our kitchens4 ,it is strange that this important service for simplifying cooking should have had to wait till the twentieth century for its general adoption4 ,its principle was known to the ancient ,hebrews4 ,charles ,,xii got on the trail when he cooked a fat hen while on the march by inserting within it a piece of hot steel1 the whole being placed in a tin box which was wrapped in a woolen cloth and strapped on a soldier's back4 ,it was in the far ,north that the possibilities of this procedure were first appreciated in modern times4 ,the general attention of ,europe was directed at the ,paris ,exposition of #ahfg to what was called the ,norwegian automatic kitchen--a box in which food that had been heated to boiling point for a few minutes continued to cook slowly till done4 ,one would have supposed that such a wonderful saver of fuel1 time1 and trouble must have been adopted universally within a few years1 all the more as any one could construct his own cooker out of an ordinary box lined with felt1 hay1 paper1 sawdust1 or some other poor conductor of heat4 ,but years passed and little was done until some enthusiasts1 prominent among whom was the ,grand ,duchess of ,baden1 took up the propaganda4 ,then came the era of auto pianos and automobiles and auto everything4 ,the automatic cooker was no longer a solitary voice crying in the wilderness4 ,the manufacturers took it up1 and now1 especially in the ,united ,states1 thousands are sold every day4 ,already there are nearly as many makes of them as there are of pianos or automobiles1 each claiming special advantages over all others4 ,with the best of them1 boiling1 steaming1 broiling1 baking1 frying1 roasting--everything1 except crisping and toasting--can be done with satisfactory results4 ,soups and stews1 in particular1 which require hours of slow cooking at moderate heat1 come out of these cookers with a delicious flavor4 ,from the gastronomic and dietetic points of view the most important of all the claims made for the fireless cooker is that the food flavors previously dissipated through the whole house as kitchen odors are retained in the meats and vegetables1 making them exceptionally savory and appetizing4 ,it is needless to say that these cookers are of no use for broiling or frying steaks1 chops1 bacon1 ham1 sausages1 or griddle cakes1 which require only a few minutes to cook and must be crisp to be enjoyable4 ,nor will the presence of a cooker make it any the less necessary for the mistress or the professional cook to thoroughly understand the culinary art4 ,they must know about meats1 and cereals1 and vegetables1 and flavors1 and their combinations and extension1 to which attention has been called4 ,it is simply1 in all households1 valuable because it preserves flavors1 eliminates the danger of burning or overcooking1 reduces the cost of fuel by three-fourths or more1 makes it easier to wash the pots and in other ways saves no end of drudgery2 while for those who have to do their own cooking its advantages in giving leisure for other work1 or diversions while the cooking goes on1 are incalculable4 ,the best of all wedding presents is a fireless cooker4 ,automobilists and excursionists in general are finding these boxes a great convenience4 ,they have also been used in the army4 ,many women whose work is away from home hardly have even as much time to spare as is needed for starting a meal in the cooker4 ,it is likely that restaurant-keepers and other caterers will be more and more called upon to prepare specially ordered meals for such cases and send them in the heat-retaining boxes in which they were made4 ,expert cooks1 in all probability1 will go from house to house to start the cookers4 ,,private ,,versus ,,community ,,kitchens4 ,there is a future here for various new kinds of culinary work4 ,but for one kind1 it is to be hoped1 there is no future1 and that is the community kitchen--a single kitchen for a number of families4 ,this plan has been tried in various countries1 always without success4 ,berlin had its ,einkchenhaus--for a time4 ,the ,new ,york ,independent of ,march #f1 #aiab1 contains an account of a similar experiment in ,america4 ,a dozen women presided in succession with invariably disastrous results4 ,it is impossible in such a case to suit the taste and purse of every family4 ,in a large restaurant it is possible to cater to every patron's wishes1 but where there are half-a-dozen or a dozen families clubbed together1 some are willing to pay for fresh eggs and poultry and unsalted butter1 for example1 while others would prefer to save the money and live on storage eggs and poultry1 salted butter1 wilted or canned vegetables1 and so on4 ,there is sure to be constant squabbling2 troubles arise from feeing1 bribing1 and a hundred other sources4 ,no2 most of us want to be able to order our own meats1 vegetables and fruits1 and have them cooked and served as we like them4 ,it was the fashion of forty years ago1 wrote ,e4 ,p4 ,powell in #aijd1 for progressive economists to discuss a reform village1 built in squares1 one house on each corner1 and a community boarding-hall and kitchen in the center of each square4 ,some experiments were made along such lines1 but they fell to pieces over the table question4 ,it is not easy for four families to agree on a menu three times a day1 and on the qualities of the cooking4 ,as a rule every woman must be mistress of her own kitchen4 ,the ,german delicatessen store 7now acclimated in all our cities7 with its cooked cold meats1 pickles1 cheeses1 and diverse fancy groceries1 is likely to be the nearest approach to a community kitchen 7nearly every block has one7 that the future will know2 and the delicatessen store is only an appendix to the private kitchen4 ,nothing could be more ridiculous than the wails of certain writers over the waste of time in having the cooking done separately for each family4 ,there are plenty of persons in search of profitable employment to supply the demand2 and surely1 it is infinitely more human1 more intellectual1 more enjoyable to practise the noble and useful art of cooking than to be merely one cog in a huge machine for making shoes or garments1 or cigarettes1 as are hundreds of thousands of factory workers1 most of whom could lead much happier and more elevated lives if they were cooks4 ,the gourmet distrusts dishes provided by pastry cooks and caterers1 wrote the late ,theodore ,child2 and this is another of the many reasons why every family that can afford it should have its own cook4 ,i have never yet eaten ice cream1 even in the most expensive places1 as rich and luscious as the cream we make at home4 ,excellent jams and jellies are now for sale in the markets2 but in your own kitchen you and your helpers can make jams and jellies1 and preserves that are better still--made of material you have seen1 and sweetened1 or otherwise seasoned1 to your individual taste4 ,the word home-made is still the synonym of gastronomic excellence4 ,when a dealer wants to specially commend his offerings1 he labels or advertises them as home-made4 ,owing partly to the present difficulty of getting good cooks1 and partly to the selfish disinclination of too many ,american women to do as much at home for their husband or father as the husband or father does for them in the office1 thousands of homes have been abandoned in favor of apartment hotels4 ,how these families can endure the insipid1 monotonous1 unappetizing meals served in these 7for the most part expensive7 places1 is to me incomprehensible4 ,a reaction will come in favor of private kitchens1 and it will be greatly accelerated by the latest improvements1 now to be considered4 ,,scientific ,,electric ,,cooking4 ,in the average household the use of a cooking box does not do away entirely with the smoke1 soot1 heat1 ashes1 and kitchen odors1 because of the need of heating the food on a stove for five minutes to half an hour before it is put into the air-tight box4 ,the use of gas-stoves does away with most of these nuisances1 while electricity abolishes them altogether1 besides removing the danger of fire1 keeping the air clean and cool1 and enabling one to cook in any part of the house at any desired minute4 ,electric cooking is still in its infancy1 but the child is growing rapidly4 ,at the ,chicago ,exposition of #ahic utensils were shown in considerable variety--chafing-dishes1 stew-pans1 coffee-pots1 teapots1 broilers1 griddles1 etc4 ,since that time hundreds of thousands of dollars have been spent in devising improvements1 and at the electric exhibition in ,new ,york in #aiaa the cooking-utensils were so prominent and boasted so many improvements that it seemed as though the time had come for their general introduction into homes and hotels4 ,the ,united ,states ,government has taken the lead by recommending electric ranges for future use on battleships1 after experiments had been made showing that the change would result in greater economy of time1 space1 and money1 not to speak of cleanliness1 or of the better quality of the cooked food1 because of the uniform distribution of the heat4 ,for home use1 electricity is still in most localities comparatively expensive1 but it will be less so when it comes into more general use4 ,if the electric companies would more frequently follow the example of the gas companies in renting cooking-ranges1 it would be a great stride forward4 ,in ,england some of the companies charge a special low rate for electric cooking1 because it is done mostly in the day time1 when there is little demand for the current for lighting purposes4 ,but the most radical way to reduce the cost is to combine the electric range with the fireless cooker4 ,thousands of families that can not pay for an electric current five or six hours a day could easily afford one for the fifteen minutes necessary for heating the food before it is put into the box1 besides the few minutes needed for crisping roasts1 brewing coffee1 or toasting bread4 ,in #aiaa1 fancying myself a prophet of great things to happen1 ,i wrote3 ,it is quite likely that the electric range can be so constructed in part that no separate cooking-box will be needed2 and then the culinary millennium4 ,the ,edison ,monthly reprinted my remarks and in an editorial promptly informed me that what ,i had voiced as a mere possibility for the future was already a fact3 that electric fireless cookers had been put out by several manufacturers more than a year before my article appeared4 ,it was a pleasant surprise to find that this was literally true2 that my imagined millennium cookers were actually in the market4 ,in ,chicago1 on ,september #ae1 #aiaj1 the following menu was served to nineteen persons in an electric shop3 ,consomme ,julienne ,radishes ,olives ,celery ,prime ,roast ,beef ,mashed ,potatoes ,lima ,beans ,combination ,salad ,fresh ,peach ,short ,cake ,coffee ,this meal was cooked in two hours2 and by using high heat only so long as necessary 7on the cooker principle7 and then turning down the electric current the cost was made as low as only a trifle over a cent and a quarter per person4 ,for dishes requiring only a short time to prepare1 the following details have been given3 ,a toaster can be used for fifteen minutes at a cost of #a cents2 fried oysters with bacon1 prepared in the blazer of an electric stove consumes #b cents' worth of current2 to prepare creamed oysters costs #a cents2 finnan haddie1 #b cents2 lobster la ,newburg1 #b cents2 chicken and mushrooms1 #b cents2 spring chicken1 #b cents2 lamb chops with vegetables1 #b cents2 sweetbreads1 #b cents2 plain omelet1 #a cents2 cheese omelet1 #b cents2 ,spanish omelet1 #b cents4 ,to boil eggs the water-cup may be used on the dining-room table and one cup of water can be boiled for #a cents2 ,welsh rarebit may be made for #a cents2 griddle cakes baked on the electric stove for #b cents for #a hours' operation4 ,west ,london in the autumn of #aiab had two private restaurants in which all the cooking was done by electricity1 #a1bjj meals being provided daily for the staff of a large establishment4 ,in the ,london ,daily ,mail of ,november #b1 #aiab1 the following appeared3 ,an interesting test made in a small middle-class home gives the entire cost of the day's cooking at #f;d4 ,beginning first thing in the morning1 the time and amount of electricity used were carefully noted4 ,for early morning tea the boiler or kettle of the electric range boiled rather more than two pints of water in four minutes1 the electricity used equaling less than one-fifth of a penny4 ,the whole cooking of the breakfast took ten minutes1 the electricity used being less than #g-ajth of a unit1 equaling an expenditure of just under d4 ,the menu was five rashers of bacon and toast cooked on the grill in less than seven minutes1 five eggs boiled on a ring1 and coffee made from the rapid boiler4 ,the midday meat meal consisted of an #h lb4 joint1 potatoes1 and other vegetables for five people1 milk pudding1 and coffee4 ,the electric oven retains the heat so well that the pudding was placed in the oven after the joint was removed and the electricity switched off1 the retained heat being sufficient to cook it2 #b units1 or #b;d41 cooked this meal4 ,tea time cost d4 for tea1 hot grill cakes1 and toast1 and supper with a hot dish #a;d4 ,during the day water was boiled1 cakes baked1 and some soup simmered1 at the cost of another unit4 ,the advance of the electric cooker can be gauged by the statement of the electric supply companies1 who affirm that where they had but six private houses using cookers last ,christmas they have #bjj this year2 or by the statements of the users1 who say that they have no desire to return to old methods4 ,many big business houses have complete electric installations in their kitchens4 ,electricity in the kitchen will make cooking an exact science4 ,no longer will diners be obliged to rely on the cook's instinct or knack1 which too often fail4 ,with the electric appliances the temperature can be controlled to a degree1 and special switches permit fast1 medium1 or slow rates of cooking4 ,from the economic point of view the most satisfactory electric ranges are of course those in which the current shuts off automatically1 while the dinner continues to cook with no further expense1 the stove taking on the fireless cooker principle4 ,further advantages claimed for electric cooking are that the loss of weight in meat while cooking is greatly reduced1 and that the results obtained by it have the advantages of the paper-bag cooking1 which has come so much into use within a few years because of its cleanliness and its value in preserving the food flavors which in ordinary cooking are so lamentably dissipated4 ,electric chafing dishes1 toasters of various kinds1 coffee percolators and tea kettles1 waffle irons1 boilers1 stew and frying pans1 are now at the service of all who have electricity in the house4 ,nor is this all4 ,there are1 besides1 bread and cake mixers1 coffee grinders1 food choppers1 ice cream freezers1 egg beaters1 vegetable slicers1 food graters1 apple peelers1 knife sharpeners and polishers--all of them run by the electric current4 ,thus we see that the housewife and the cook of the future1 instead of feeling like a drudge in a smoky1 smelly1 overheated kitchen1 will have the dignity of workers in a cool1 clean laboratory for the scientific preparation of savory food and the abolition of dyspepsia4 ,the editor of the electric magazine referred to indicates another important result of this agreeable transformation of the kitchen4 ,caste feeling is largely a matter of dress4 ,the poorest stenographer is a lady1 because1 in so far as her stipend permits1 she dresses like a lady4 ,accordingly1 she looks down upon the cook drawing the same wages and 'keep1' because the cook works with red face and streaming hair over a hot stove4 ,but in the electric kitchen of the future the cook will be able to be as neatly dressed as if she were presiding over a glove counter2 and this will act as a great social leveler4 ,the cook's work will also be lightened by the growing practice of preparing food and drink on the dining-room table1 to have it hot1 and with the flavor at its best4 ,the choicest coffee1 for instance1 is usually spoiled by being prepared carelessly in the kitchen4 ,epicures make their own coffee and tea2 they are also able now to have better toast than ever comes from the kitchen by making it on the table in an electric toaster4 ,eggs and bacon1 taken sizzling from the electric frying stove and eaten out of the pan1 have a richness of flavor that will astonish those who have never tried them this way2 and the same is true of many other breakfast and lunch dishes4 ,,importance ,,of ,,variety ,,in ,,foods4 ,it is likely that in the development of electric cooking inventive ,america will lead ,europe4 ,but in other respects the ,american cooking of the future will have to borrow many useful hints from the older and more experienced nations of ,europe4 ,we need1 especially1 greater variety in our dietary4 ,the following chapters will endeavor to indicate the best ways of multiplying our pleasures of the table4 ,before beginning with ,france1 which has the largest number of lessons to teach1 let us briefly consider the need of variety4 ,king ,philip ,v of ,spain engaged ,farinelli1 the most famous vocalist of his time1 to sing four songs for him1 without change of any kind1 every evening for ten years4 ,he was not in his right mind1 as a matter of course1 one feels tempted to add1 and yet are there not at this day1 and in this country1 many thousands of persons whose musical pabulum consists entirely of half a dozen tunes1 which they sing1 hum1 and whistle decade after decade8 ,for them the countless inspirations of genius given to the world in the last three centuries do not exist at all4 ,and how much enjoyment they thus miss6 ,vastly more surprising1 since everybody eats1 is the fact that the majority of persons are equally ignorant of the countless delicacies invented by ingenious cooks of the past and present4 ,what ,sir ,henry ,thompson wrote1 more than a quarter of a century ago1 regarding the average ,englishman is quite as true to this day of the average ,american3 ,he cares more for quantity than quality1 desires little variety1 and regards as impertinent an innovation in the shape of a new aliment1 expecting the same food at the same hour daily4 ,breeders of fine animals have long since discovered that nothing is so conducive to health and other desirable qualities as variety in the food given4 ,a monotonous diet soon palls on the appetite1 fails to stimulate the digestive organs1 and the result is dyspepsia1 loss of pleasure1 energy1 and earning power1 and the shortening of life4 ,think of the pallid victims of the everlasting hog and hominy in the ,south6 ,hasty pudding and milk1 as ,artemus ,ward sagely observed1 are a harmless diet if eaten moderately1 but if you eat it incessantly for six consecutive weeks1 it will produce instant death4 ,at a conference on diet in schools held in ,london1 all the speakers agreed that monotony is the most fatal thing to digestion in both young and old1 and that the knowledge that such and such a dish must inevitably come on ,monday and such and such another on ,tuesday1 is destructive beforehand to appetite which is essential to good digestion and nutrition4 ,when the average ,american or ,englishman travels1 he is glad to see new cities1 new scenery1 new costumes and new faces2 but he is comically indignant if he cannot get the same food he has always had at home4 ,it would be much better for him if he could be made to understand that ,cowper's maxim1 ,variety's the very spice of life1 applies to diet as much as to anything4 ,every country has something to give and teach us regarding the pleasures of the table4 ,no other land yields such a lavish and varied supply of raw material as the ,united ,states1 and all we need in order to become the leading gastronomic nation is to wake up to the importance of good and varied cooking and rational eating1 and to learn all we can from nations famed for their culinary art4 ,the methods of obtaining the diverse national food flavors can often be studied without traveling abroad1 since in our cities we have cooks and restaurants of nearly every land under the sun4 ,in ,new ,york one can make a gastronomic trip of the world4 ,illustration ,,vii ,,french ,,supremacy ,a grumbler might ask ,what's the use trying to learn new things from foreigners when so many of our families can hardly afford to buy the ordinary meats and vegetables for any kind of meal8 ,but it is precisely because foodstuffs are becoming expensive that we ought to look to the older and less extravagant nations of ,europe for guidance4 ,our ,government has been commendably alert in this matter1 doing a most useful service by issuing ,farmers' ,bulletin #cia1 which1 as previously pointed out1 shows how1 by expert cooking1 the cheaper cuts of meat may be made to yield more nutrition as well as more appetizing flavor than the choicest cuts as at present prepared in ,american households4 ,,kitchen ,,alchemy4 ,it is to ,france chiefly that the world owes this invaluable lesson1 which gives to those of moderate means many of the advantages of the well-to-do4 ,in that country the humblest peasant family enjoys palatable meals because the cook is an alchemist who knows how to transmute the baser metals into silver and gold4 ,the secret of this alchemy lies in the use of the stock-pot1 which saves for the table a vast amount of animal and vegetable nutriment and flavor such as in ,american cities and on ,american farms are wickedly wasted4 ,it is no consolation to know that the ,british are almost if not quite as foolishly wasteful as we are4 ,but they are beginning to learn of the ,french4 ,sir ,henry ,thompson's ,food and ,feeding sounded a note which is being listened to more and more attentively4 ,a more recent writer comments instructively on ,french ,thrift and ,british ,waste3 ,in a ,french household such a thing as waste is almost unknown4 ,the positive waste of odds and ends in this country is simply appalling4 ,look not only under the vegetable stalls in our streets1 but also in almost all dustbins1 and you will see as much as1 if it had been kept clean1 might have given health literally to thousands of people4 ,besides the outside leaves of cabbages and cauliflowers1 and the outside layers of onion skin1 there are the peelings of potatoes1 turnips1 carrots1 and apples1 and the tops of beet-roots and turnips1 and the large outside sticks of celery4 ,in ,france and other countries these go1 as a matter of course1 into the stock-pot4 ,in ,england the stock-pot is scarcely used at all among the poorer people4 ,it is not too much to affirm that half a dozen changes in the ways of ,english poor people1 including first and foremost the use of the stock-pot1 would increase our national prosperity more than our social reformers dream of4 ,,seven ,,hundred ,,soups4 ,there are a thousand uses in an intelligently conducted kitchen for the delicious bouillon in the stockpot1 redolent of the flavors of diverse vegetables and meats4 ,dumas wrote that the ,french cuisine owes its superiority to the excellence of its bouillon--the product of seven hours of continuous simmering4 ,he knew what he was talking about1 for he was almost as far famed for his knowledge of kitchen lore as for his novels2 and his ,grand ,dictionnaire de ,cuisine is one of the monumental contributions to the arts of cooking and eating4 ,another ,frenchman1 ,ferdinand ,grandi1 wrote a book in #aijb entitled ,les #gjj ,potages1 ou l'art de ,prparer les ,soupes1 ,consomms1 ,bisques1 ,pures1 ,garbures1 ,semoules1 ,lgumes1 ,farineux1 ,potages de toutes ,sortes et de tous les ,pays4 ,seven hundred soups seems a large order1 yet it is possible to prepare not only seven hundred but seven times seven hundred kinds by combining the juices and flavors of diverse meats with those of an endless variety of vegetables4 ,that this is not an exaggeration any one may convince himself by turning over the pages of ,baumann's ,meisterwerk der ,speisen1 which1 in its #bjaf pages1 indicates the nature of about that number of soups4 ,it must not be inferred from the foregoing remarks about the stockpot that nothing goes into it except odds and ends--peelings and tops of vegetables1 bruised bones1 trimmings from joints1 scraps of poultry or other meat that is left over at table4 ,on the contrary1 those who can afford it put in chunks of carefully chosen meats to enrich the bouillon4 ,for making the national ,french soup known as pot-au-feu the pieces generally selected are the top round1 the shoulder1 or the ends of ribs4 ,preparing the pot-au-feu is not so simple a matter as it may seem4 ,in ,l',art du ,bien ,manger we read that the boiling must be done slowly and methodically and that the vegetables to be used must be fresh3 ,to make an excellent bouillon1 cook1 preferably in an earthenware casserole1 or1 if that is not available1 an iron pot2 put in the meat1 the bones1 cold water and salt4 ,put the pot on the fire1 bring it to the boiling point and skim carefully1 then after this first skimming add a glass of cold water4 ,let it boil up again and skim a second time4 ,when the soup begins again to boil slightly slacken the fire1 uncover the pot partially and let it simmer gently4 ,after three hours' simmering add the vegetables and two pepper-corns4 ,let this go on simmering two hours more4 ,color the liquid with a little caramel made from burned sugar4 ,remove all the fat from the bouillon1 put it through a fine sieve and pour it into the soup tureen in which you have placed thin slices of bread which have been browned in the oven4 ,the beef from the stock may be served garnished with the boiled vegetables4 7,the use of pepper is a matter of taste47 ,the economical side of the pot-au-feu is to furnish soup for two meals4 ,what is left over may be kept in an earthenware jar into which it should be poured through a fine sieve after it has settled somewhat in the soup kettle4 ,dumas1 who relied for his culinary directions on his friend ,vuillemot1 of the ,tte ,noire at ,st4 ,cloud1 advises that only the freshest and juiciest meat should be used and that it should not be washed1 as that would rob it of a portion of its juice4 ,the bones that are added should be broken up well with a mallet as that will result in the gelatine being effectually extracted from them4 ,then we place them in a horsehair bag with any scraps of fowl1 rabbit1 partridge1 or roast pigeon which may be found in the larder2 in fact1 the remains of yesterday's dinner4 ,as ,i am not writing a cook book1 my main object in presenting these excerpts is to provide an illustration of that use of brains and painstaking care in the kitchen which explains ,french supremacy in matters gastronomic4 ,,savory ,,sauces4 ,the same traits are abundantly manifested in the making of sauces4 ,while ,dumas attributed the culinary superiority of the ,french to their bouillon1 ,george ,h4 ,ellwanger1 who has written an entertaining book on ,the ,pleasures of the ,table1 declares that the supreme triumph of the ,french cuisine consists in its sauces4 ,many of the ,french gourmets and chefs have held the same view1 and undoubtedly more inventive skill has been shown1 and more reputations have been made1 in the realm of sauces than in any other department of the art of cooking4 ,recipes for eighty-one of the best ,french sauces are given in ,l',art du ,bien ,manger1 and two hundred and forty-six sauces are described in ,charles ,ranhofer's ,the ,epicurean4 ,perhaps the number of possible sauces is not as large as that of the soups2 yet there is ample scope still for inventive genius4 ,not only men but cities have been made famous by a sauce4 ,in the restaurants of ,paris and all over ,europe1 in fact1 ,rouen duck is often on the bill of fare4 ,but as ,lieut4-,col4 ,newnham-,davis says in ,the ,gourmet's ,guide to ,europe1 the ,rouen duck is not any particular breed of duck1 though the good people of ,rouen will probably stone you if you assert this4 ,it is simply a roan duck4 ,the rich sauce which forms part of the dish was1 however1 invented at ,rouen4 ,it was with a duck sauce that one of the ,french restaurateurs of our time won fame and fortune4 ,for a number of years every ,american and ,englishman in ,paris who could afford it1 went to the ,tour d',argent to eat a duck as prepared by ,frdric ,delair4 ,he used two ducks for each order4 ,one of them1 well-cooked1 was for the meat1 while the other1 quite rare 7or under-done1 as the ,english say7 was put into a silver turnscrew and had all its juices--including that of the liver--squeezed out4 ,these juices make a sauce which ,i have eaten with enjoyment and impunity2 but ,i have been told by a physician at ,lyons that some persons are made ill by it1 owing1 apparently1 to some injurious quality in raw duck-livers4 ,illustration3 ,the ,tour d',argent and ,frdric ,delair ,most of the ,paris restaurants1 now that ,frdric is no more1 have their silver turnscrew1 and they do not feel guilty of plagiarism1 for ,frdric did not really originate this trick but adapted it from the practice of ,french peasants who tried to get as much juice as possible out of their tough and skinny ducks by smashing the carcasses with stones4 ,already in the middle ages the saucier1 or saucemaker1 was the headman in the cuisine of ,french aristocrats4 ,the age of ,carme 7who wrote eloquently and lovingly about sauces7 was1 as ,ellwanger remarks1 the era of quintessences--of the cuisine classique1 when chemistry contributed new resources1 and fish1 meats1 and fowls were distilled1 in order to add a heightened flavor to the sauces and viands that their etherealized essences were to accentuate4 ,one thinks of ,lucullus and ,apicius1 and of the 'exceeding odoriferous and aromatical vapor' of the ovens of the artist mentioned by ,montaigne4 ,the most common ingredients used to make the savory and appetizing ,french sauces are the yolks of eggs 7raw or cooked71 salt1 pepper1 mustard1 vinegar1 lemon juice1 tomatoes1 bouillon1 shallots1 anchovies1 onions1 garlic1 carrots1 olive oil1 orange rind1 truffles1 cream1 mushrooms1 pickles1 wines1 meat extracts1 cayenne1 and diverse aromatic herbs4 ,but the most important of all ,french sauces is melted ,french butter--not kitchen butter1 but the fresh1 fragrant product of the creamery4 ,with such butter1 and plenty of it1 gastronomic miracles can be performed4 ,illustration3 ,,car,,me ,there is a great deal of local ,flavor in ,french sauces4 ,blindfold a ,parisian gourmet who knows his country1 and place before him dishes made after the fashions of different provinces1 and he will tell you at once the name of the town they smack of4 ,the coast towns enjoy special advantages in this respect1 as they can use diverse shellfish and other marine creatures peculiar to their region to impart special overtones of flavor1 so to speak1 to their sauces4 ,french enthusiasm over sauces reached its climax in the exclamation that with sauce ,robert a man might be pardoned for eating his own grandfather6 ,brillat-,savarin1 like many of his countrymen1 went too far when he declared that poultry is for cookery what canvas is to the painter4 ,no doubt1 many of the sauces served with poultry in ,french restaurants 7each of which has its specialty1 as it has in the line of fish sauces7 are delicious1 yet good chickens1 ducks1 and turkeys1 not to speak of game birds1 have flavors of their own which it is a barbarism to disguise even with the noblest of sauces--except once in a while1 for the sake of variety4 ,the way to cook any winged creature if you want the most delicious flavor it can yield1 is roasting la broche4 ,,profitable ,,poules ,,de ,,bresse4 ,of the barbarism just referred to1 many ,parisian restaurants1 ,i regret to say1 are habitually guilty4 ,one evening1 at one of the best of them1 ,i was simply dumfounded when a choice poularde1 which cost as much as the almost extinct canvasback duck does in ,new ,york1 was served with--horribile dictu--a sauce made of ,american canned corn6 ,it was not an attempt to cater to the supposed taste of a ,new ,yorker1 for it was a plat du jour1 prepared before we arrived and served to others4 ,had ,i been the host of the occasion instead of merely a guest ,i should have taken the head-waiter into a corner and whispered some advice into his ear4 ,what aggravated the crime was that it was a poularde de ,bresse that was thus maltreated4 ,many varieties of chickens are raised in ,france--the poule commune1 the race de ,houdan1 race de la ,flche1 race de ,crvecur1 race de ,barbezieux1 race ,caussade1 etc41 besides imported varieties2 but the noblest of them all is the race de la ,bresse4 ,the poulet de ,bresse is the most highly esteemed of all domestic birds that are served not only at ,french dinners1 but at the best restaurants and hotels all over ,europe4 ,it has a richness of flavor that puts it far above other fowls--as far as its delicious fragrance puts the ,gravenstein above all other apples4 ,in ,france the poule de ,bresse has long been held in highest esteem4 ,brillat-,savarin wrote in #ahbe3 as to chickens1 the finest are those from ,bresse1 which are as round as an apple4 ,english breeders have recently discovered its superior merits4 ,it promises1 the ,london ,telegraph remarks1 to become very popular in the near future1 and deservedly so1 considering the breed's laying and table properties1 which have been tested for fully a century across the channel4 ,bresse is one of the principal towns in the ,aisne district1 and the breed which bears its name was always cultivated for its white flesh1 with delicacy of flavor4 ,poularde de ,bresse usually fetches a higher price than any other fowl in the ,paris market4 ,it behoves our ,english poultry keepers to use every effort to popularize the ,bresse fowl in this country4 ,the specialist club1 started some three years since #aiji has already done much4444 ,mr4 ,g4 ,h4 ,caple1 of ,stanton ,prior1 near ,bristol1 is honorary secretary1 and will give all needful information4 ,it is to be noted that the ,bresse fowl not only puts on flesh in a wonderful way1 but has all the other qualities most desirable in a farmyard bird4 ,several varieties have flesh as juicy as the ,bresse1 and almost as delicate in flavor1 but there is always some trait or other that puts them at a disadvantage4 ,the ,houdan1 for instance1 is a good bird for the table and a fair layer1 but it requires too much attention to be generally profitable4 ,la ,flche provides a tender morsel but flourishes only in dry regions1 and the same is true of the ,crvecur class1 which is extremely sensitive to humidity4 ,the ,belgian ,campine puts on good flesh but not enough of it4 ,the ,american ,wyandotte and the ,leghorn are robust1 and good layers1 but the flesh is inferior in flavor4 ,much better in this respect are the ,plymouth ,rocks1 but they are poor layers4 ,the ,langshans class is good to eat1 but does not fatten easily1 while the ,cochins grow too slowly and their flesh is mediocre as to flavor4 ,the poule de ,bresse has none of these flaws4 ,the black variety is the hardiest of all chickens1 flourishing in any climate except the extreme north1 and on any soil1 dry or humid4 ,as a layer she is among the very best1 often winning prizes for size and number of eggs4 ,though prolific she is not too eager to set1 but when she does hatch1 she makes a devoted mother4 ,best of all1 the flesh is tender and juicy1 there is plenty of it1 and in flavor it is beyond compare4 ,truly1 the poule de ,bresse is the chicken for the farm and the market--c'est la vritable poule de rapport1 celle qui convient la ferme1 as a ,french noted aviculteur remarks4#i ,to my great surprise1 in looking over ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #ea 7#aijg7 entitled ,standard ,varieties of ,chickens1 ,i found no mention of the poule de ,bresse in this forty-six-page document1 which begins with the statement that there are #ajd standard and a large number of nonstandard varieties of chickens raised in this country4 ,can we afford to be so far behind the ,french--and the ,english8 ,ungastronomic ,america confronts us in the statement1 in ,bulletin #ea1 that although as a table fowl the ,leghorn is only fairly good1 it holds the same place among poultry that the ,jersey holds among cattle4 ,the question of profit in poultry has been decided in favor of the egg-producing breeds4 ,in a country in which most poultry is spoiled by being put into cold storage undrawn1 it is no wonder that the laying capacity of a fowl should alone be deemed worth considering2 for1 under these conditions1 as previously pointed out1 breed and feed are of no consequence so far as flavor is concerned4 ,but the time is coming when the ,american consumer will imperatively demand ,flavor in ,food2 and bountiful harvests will be reaped by farmers who look ahead now and stock their poultry yards with an eye to good and abundant flesh as well as good and abundant eggs4 ,the ,bresse race will fill the whole bill4 ,it is best for eggs1 best for the table4 ,a ,bresse hen will virtually hatch two chicks from one egg4 ,,digestive ,,value ,,of ,,sour ,,salads4 ,salad goes with chicken as the piano goes with a song4 ,to eat lettuce with the cheese1 as many ,englishmen and not a few ,americans do1 is preposterously absurd4 ,as for putting sugar on lettuce ,i cannot write down my opinion1 for it is not fit for print4 ,salad cries for vinegar1 as a parched plant cries for rain4 ,vinegar is not only agreeable to the senses of taste and smell1 and most refreshing1 especially in summer1 but it plays a very important rle in the digestion of food4 ,it has been said that ,god sent us our food and the devil our cooks4 ,this is not always the case1 but the devil certainly inspired the man who taught that1 in mixing a salad dressing1 the vinegar should be added by a miser4 ,this maxim1 widely accepted1 has done a great deal of harm1 not only in spoiling many millions of dishes for the palate1 but in preventing salads from heading off dyspepsia1 with all its evil consequences4 ,many physicians have deplored the insufficiency of fat in the average ,american's diet4 ,fat is especially important as a source of energy1 and also because fat meat is more savory and appetizing than lean meat4 ,furthermore1 physiologists have shown by laboratory experiments that the presence of fat in meat or vegetable dishes makes them yield a larger degree of nutriment 7apart from what it contributes itself74 ,professor ,john ,c4 ,olsen of the ,brooklyn ,polytechnic ,institute says that fats and oils furnish fully half the energy obtained by human beings from their food4 ,fats also exert a beneficial influence on the digestive process1 so that a diet without fat is dry and unpalatable4 ,the only drawback is that fat makes the food rich and difficult of digestion--unless the cook is an artist4 ,this is why so many persons exclude it from their dietary1 at the cost of energy in men and the beauty of health in women4 ,it is here that salad comes to the rescue4 ,the vinegar in it1 if genuine1 excites by its fragrance and acidity the digestive glands not only in the mouth and the stomach1 but in the pancreas1 which acts on all the constituents of food1 particularly the fats4 ,the pancreas is a gland near the stomach2 it secretes the juice known as pancreatic and pours it into the duodenum1 or small intestine1 which--some ten or fifteen feet in length1 is folded about it4 ,to prevent intestinal indigestion there must be an abundant flow of pancreatic juice1 and this flow is stimulated by the vinegar in the salad we eat and other acids in our food4 ,on this point the greatest living authority on the subject1 ,professor ,pawlow1 makes the following extremely important remarks3 444 an acid reaction is not only necessary for an efficient action of the peptic ferment1 but is at the same time the strongest excitant of the pancreatic gland4 ,it is even conceivable that the whole digestion may depend upon the stimulating properties of acids1 since the pancreatic juice exerts a ferment action upon all the constituents of the food4 ,in this way acids may either assist digestion in the stomach where too little gastric juice is present1 or bring about vicarious digestion by the pancreas where it is wholly absent4 ,it is easy1 therefore1 to understand why the ,russian peasant enjoys his kwas with bread4 ,the enormous quantity of starch which he consumes1 either as bread or porridge1 demands a greater activity upon the part of the pancreatic gland1 and this is directly brought about by the acid4 ,further1 in certain affections of the stomach1 associated with loss of appetite1 we make use of acids1 both from instinct as well as medical direction1 the explanation being that they excite an increased activity of the pancreatic gland1 and thus supplement the weak action of the stomach4 ,it appears to me that a knowledge of the special relations of acids to the pancreas ought to be very useful in medicine1 since it brings the gland--a digestive organ at once so powerful and so difficult of access--under the control of the physician4 ,it is obvious from these disclosures that if every ,american family followed the ,french custom of eating a sour salad at least once a day there would be very much less intestinal indigestion1 which is even more distressing than indigestion in the stomach4 ,it is further obvious that ,fletcherizing1 or mouth work1 alone does not avert indigestion1 for saliva has no effect on fats4 ,the pancreas takes care of these1 particularly if aided by acid ingredients in our food4 ,probably no detail of the ,french menu is therefore so important to us as the daily sour salad4 ,an astonishingly small number of ,american families know what a delicious and hygienically valuable dish salad is with a ,french dressing of good olive oil and pure1 fragrant vinegar4 ,there is very little nourishment in salad leaves until the oil has been added2 and the oil is what we need1 with the vinegar to help digest it4 ,the two words ,i have just italicized explain why so many ,americans imagine they do not like salads with vinegar and oil dressing4 ,unless the oil is good and the vinegar pure and fragrant such a salad does no good but may do much harm2 and it is seldom that one can buy good oil and vinegar in a grocery store4 ,of all the food adulterators none are more rascally and abundant than the makers of artificial vinegar4 ,pure vinegars made of cider1 wine1 or malt can be sold at a very good profit to the manufacturer and dealer at from ten to twenty cents a quart2 but this profit does not satisfy the swinish greed of the adulterators and unscrupulous grocers4 ,by using acetic acid1 a by-product of the distillation of deadly wool-alcohol1 they can make vinegar at a cost of two cents a gallon1 or #ij cents a barrel1 which retails at over #bj4 ,the pure food law covers this case1 but the fines inflicted are so trifling compared with the gains1 that the adulterators regard them in the light of a joke and continue their profitable poisoning1 though many of them have been before the courts two1 three1 or four times4 ,jail is what their crime calls for4 ,this so-called vinegar is in most cases injurious to the health of those who consume it1 and by its lack of agreeable fragrance it discourages the healthful practice of eating sour salads4 ,it is foolish to get vinegar of the nearest corner grocer unless you know he is honest4 ,it is best to buy it in the sealed bottles of firms which have a national or international reputation for fair dealing4 ,the same caution should be observed in purchasing olive oil4 ,do not buy it of a grocer who exposes his bottles in the show window4 ,if he does not know that sunlight spoils the best olive oil1 he is not likely to know1 or care1 what the best oil is4 ,among the adulterants used to cheapen olive oil small quantities of castor oil1 lard oil1 fish oil1 and even petroleum have been found4 ,more frequent are rapeseed and poppy-seed oil4 ,peanut oil is much used1 but the most frequent adulterant is cottonseed oil1 which costs only about one-fifth the price of high-grade olive oil and therefore offers great temptation to the dealer4 ,cottonseed oil is not inferior in nutritive value to olive oil1 and ,dr4 ,wiley assures us that no objection can be made to it from any hygienic or dietetic point of view4 ,of the three million barrels of it produced in this country every year1 not less than two-thirds are consumed as food4 ,it is perfectly satisfactory1 the doctor adds1 to those who have not acquired a taste for olive oil4 ,if you like cottonseed oil there is no reason in the world why you should not pour it into your salad bowl4 ,but if you wish to enjoy the epicurean delights of true salads you must train your sense of smell and learn to distinguish between fragrant oil and cottonseed oil1 which1 at its worst1 has a disagreeable flavor and at its best is practically odorless and tasteless4 ,it is the fragrance1 the ,flavor1 of olive oil that keeps it in the market1 boldly defying its cheap rivals4 ,a great many ,americans who think they do not like olive oil know not what real olive oil is4 ,they have been fooled by the adulterators4 ,they may have been careful to buy bottles labeled ,pure ,virgin ,olive ,oil2 but1 as ,dr4 ,wiley says1 this expression upon the label has been found in many instances of olive oil highly adulterated and belonging to the cheapest grade4 ,there are more than a dozen grades of olive oil4 ,it varies with the locality it is grown in1 the care taken in its manufacture1 the season1 and so on4 ,the first pressing 7virgin oil7 is the best2 the virgin oil of the month of ,may is finer than any other1 and the best oil comes from ,italy4 ,it is worth while to cultivate a taste for the finer kinds1 for they are the most fragrant and digestible4 ,such oil is not only a table delicacy second to none1 it is also used more and more by doctors for diseases of the stomach and other parts of the digestive tract4 ,for gall stone it is almost a specific4 ,as a cosmetic1 nothing equals olive oil4 ,the beauty of ,spanish and ,italian women is owing largely to their daily and liberal use of it in salads and cooked foods4 ,it improves the complexion and rounds out the lines of the form4 ,eating salad is by far the most agreeable way to take olive oil4 ,there are persons with whom all acids disagree2 these unfortunates have to do without the fragrant vinegar2 but they can easily learn to like salads with oil and salt alone4 ,the taste is decidedly worth acquiring4 ,in making the dressing1 oil should by all means be applied by a spendthrift4 ,put on as much as you think you can afford1 ,i feel tempted to advise2 but1 of course1 you can get the best results more cheaply by painting each leaf with oil or by thoroughly mixing the leaves with it before putting on the vinegar4 ,always make sure that there is no water in the bowl and that the leaves are well dried4 ,in hot weather the vinegar should be put on first1 to make the salad more piquant and refreshing4 ,one spoonful of vinegar 7pure and fragrant1 if you please7 to every two of oil is not too much4 ,let the stirring be done by a maniac1 according to the old maxim1 for it is most important4 ,salt is a necessary ingredient1 and a trifle of cayenne makes the salad more digestible4 ,black pepper is1 to some epicures1 an unwelcome intruder1 though it is often used even in ,paris restaurants1 where ,i now find it necessary to add sans poivre in ordering a salad4 ,once in a while1 for variety's sake1 add a little mustard1 or rub the inside of the big bowl 7it must be big1 and ,russian lacquer is the best7 with garlic4 ,a few tablespoonfuls of meat gravy--particularly chicken gravy 7from roast or fricassee7 give additional richness and savor to the dressing4 ,if you can get no pure and fragrant vinegar1 by all means use lemon juice as infinitely better than vinegar made of acetic acid and water4 ,but if malt1 wine or cider vinegar is at hand it is preferable to the lemon1 which does not harmonize so well with oil4 ,lemon is too loud--too self-assertive--like a trombone added to a string quartet4 ,it is a subtle thing1 this gastronomic instrumentation1 and there are differences of opinion as in matters musical4 ,there is nothing better than a glass of lemonade--except1 perhaps1 a glass of limeade2--in very warm weather it is a luxury to suck a lemon like an orange4 ,but if a slice of lemon is put in my tea ,i lose the delicate aroma of the leaves1 which ,i am after2 and so with salads4 ,the fragrance of vinegar is more delicate1 and does not overpower the fragrance of the oil4 ,on the other hand1 in making mayonnaise1 which is also a ,french dressing1 having been invented by the ,marshal de ,richelieu1 and which is often used for green salads as well as for meat and fish salads1 lemon is perhaps preferable to vinegar4 ,apparently the addition of the yolks of raw eggs to the other ingredients prevents the lemon tone from being too loud4 ,with sardines1 also1 a lemon is all right1 because their own flavor is not so weak as to be easily routed4 ,in remote regions1 where pure olive oil cannot be obtained1 a very fair substitute for ,french salad dressing may be provided by following the practice of ,belgians and ,germans of putting small cubes of fried bacon into the vinegar4 ,sometimes the vinegar1 thus oiled1 is heated and then poured over the leaves4 ,that wilts them but makes a piquant dish for a change4 ,in one way or another1 have a sour salad with your dinner1 especially if it includes fat food1 for the reasons given4 ,,escarole1 ,,tomatoes1 ,,artichokes1 ,,alligator ,,pears4 ,in nineteen cases out of twenty the salad served in our country is lettuce1 and in nine cases out of ten the diner is insulted with huge green leaves fit only for boiled greens or the stock-pot4 ,green lettuce is good to eat raw only in its infancy 7when two or three inches high7 or when it has shot up higher in a few weeks on very rich1 moist soil4 ,much better1 however1 is head lettuce1 with the white inside leaves1 crisp and succulent4 ,even those1 unfortunately1 are somewhat indigestible to many1 unless very carefully chewed4 ,those who find lettuce troublesome should by all means try the bleached white hearts of the variety of endive known as escarole 7the ,french call it scarole74 ,until a few years ago it was very difficult to find escarole in any ,american market1 and it is not abundant now4 ,in the catalogues of seedsmen who give several pages to the different varieties of lettuce1 escarole is disposed of in four or five lines of small type4 ,one catalogue1 of the year #aiab1 referred to it as unsurpassed for salads2 the others made no comment at all1 or spoke of it as good for soups or greens4 ,as there has been practically no demand for escarole seed1 it was lucky to be listed at all4 ,some seedsmen1 however1 when they know of a good thing1 try to create a demand for it4 ,prominent among those is ,w4 ,atlee ,burpee1 of ,philadelphia4 ,to him ,i confided my sorrows over the difficulty of getting good escarole--or often any escarole at all4 ,i called attention to the fact that it is1 to say the least1 equal in flavor to the best head lettuce1 and much easier to assimilate1 one member of my household being able to eat it by the bowlful1 whereas lettuce invariably gives her indigestion4 ,it is much easier to raise1 also1 than lettuce1 which is extremely cranky in summer4 ,even in cool ,maine lettuce sometimes is wilted by a single hot day1 unless cared for like a tender hot-house orchid2 whereas escarole has as many lives as a cat4 ,i have often1 in thinning out my plants1 thrown them away by the dozen1 to be roasted by the sun2 but if a rain came along in a day or two1 they revived1 took root unaided1 and grew into healthy plants6 ,a further advantage is that1 in rich soil and with plenty of water1 a single plant will yield two or three hearts if those of the outside leaves which are not needed for bleaching the center are left on2 whereas head lettuce is never of the cut-and-come-again kind4 ,the only trouble with escarole is that it has not been educated4 ,lettuce has been trained by dozens of experts1 the result being a large number of excellent varieties1 some with heads as solid as cabbages4 ,my object in writing to ,mr4 ,burpee was to persuade him to give escarole a college education--to teach it how to head1 and bleach itself1 like lettuce4 ,he promptly replied that he would get seeds abroad of all the different varieties and experiment with them in his ,fordhook trial grounds2 also1 that he would write to ,luther ,burbank and try to get him interested4 ,unfortunately ,mr4 ,burbank was too busy with other reforms to take up this plant too2 but ,mr4 ,burpee forged ahead1 and in ,november1 #aiab1 he sent me copies of the notes on the varieties of escarole he had sowed--seventeen in all4 ,one or two of these1 he wrote1 seemed to be much better than the ,broad ,leaved ,batavian1 but none of them are really self-folding4 ,there seems to be hope in a variety numbered #eaca on his schedule1 which is thus described3 ,foliage pale yellowish-green1 a robust strong grower1 averaging twenty inches in diameter1 leaves eight inches long by four inches in breadth1 plain leaved1 but slightly curved1 inner leaves being much incurved1 giving the impression of its being an excellent strain for bleaching4 ,along those lines ,i have no doubt that a head-escarole will be evolved in a few years1 and that the world will be indebted to ,mr4 ,burpee for one more gastronomic delicacy as welcome as his improved head-lettuces1 his limas1 his stringless pod beans1 and his improved melons1 cucumbers1 squashes1 tomatoes1 cabbages1 and other vegetables4 ,mr4 ,burbank wrote to me under date of ,december #ah1 #aiab3 ,it is so natural for escarole to spread flat on the ground1 that it will take some time and a little pains to make it form a head4 ,mr4 ,burpee will take the time and the pains4 ,the bitter taste of escarole--a mere trace where the plant is well grown--is welcomed by epicures and hardly noticed by others4 ,the dressing is the same as for lettuce4 ,a combination that cannot be too highly commended is tomatoes with escarole4 ,this mixture is1 ,i think1 my favorite of all salads4 ,so far as tomatoes are concerned1 we have nothing to learn from the ,french4 ,as it is an ,american plant--its original home being ,peru--it is proper that ,americans should have a greater number of varieties and improvements than any other country4 ,the ,germans are only just learning to like tomatoes2 the ,english have made more progress in this important branch of gastronomic education2 the ,french revel in the tomato2 and in ,italian cookery it is an important ingredient2 but in the ,united ,states tomato-eating amounts to a passion1 a frenzy4 ,in ,new ,york every corner grocery1 even in the poorer quarters1 has its constant supply4 ,apparently1 all classes1 rich and poor alike1 are bound to have their tomatoes daily1 be their price five cents a pound or twenty-five or more4 ,for this astonishing appetite there must be good reasons4 ,the tomato1 with its delicate acid flavor is unquestionably most wholesome4 ,often ,i walk a mile to bring home the best specimens of this grand appetizer ,i can find2 and in my vegetable garden the patch most carefully enriched and hoed and watered is that where the tomato grows4 ,to get it at its best you must pick it off the vine and eat it on the spot1 without any condiment4 ,it is good in a score of ways--stewed1 grilled1 as a catsup1 even canned--but for table use it is most desirable in the salad bowl1 alone or in combination with escarole or lettuce4 ,it ought to be needless to add that it is much pleasanter to eat1 and more digestible1 if it is peeled 7which is easily done after soaking it a moment in hot water7 before slicing2 but few cooks will take this extra trouble1 slight though it is1 unless specially requested4 ,if we can perhaps give even the ,french points on tomatoes1 they have much to teach us regarding another vegetable which is among salads what diamond-back terrapin and canvasback duck are among meats--the globe artichoke4 ,fortunately1 unlike turtles and wild ducks1 this noble plant is yearly becoming more abundant in our markets4 ,it would be as much in demand as tomatoes were its flavor equally known and the samples on sale as tempting as those served in ,paris and ,london4 ,it is for the consumer to insist on having the best varieties sent from abroad and cultivated at home2 but the dealers on their part ought to be alive to the fact that the way to increase sales is to offer the best at the lowest price4 ,the ,french artichoke makes a savory vegetable1 served hot2 but how any one can eat it--or asparagus--hot1 when he might have it cold as a salad1 with ,french dressing1 is a mystery to me4 ,of course1 it must be boiled1 except when very young and tender4 ,to get the artichoke at its best one must ask for it in a first-class ,paris restaurant4 ,the waiter brings a huge specimen in a large plate1 removes the inedible choke in the center with a movement like that of a dextrous carver 7,french waiters receive prizes for skill in carving71 and there it lies in all its fragrant magnificence4 ,rossini objected to the turkey as being a bird too large for one and not large enough for two4 ,time and again in ,paris ,i have had placed before me an artichoke big enough for two2 and since my partner prefers the scales and ,i the fond1 we were both happy though married4 ,as the scaly leaves of the artichoke must be dipped into the dressing and sucked1 it is not for persons who object to using their fingers except to hold knife and fork1 any more than are crawfish1 or olives1 or peaches4 ,the ,moors of ,morocco prefer to use their hands for conveying food to the mouth1 because1 as they sensibly maintain1 they know that their hands have been thoroughly cleaned1 whereas knife and fork may have been washed carelessly4 ,the merits of the ,french artichoke were known in ,new ,orleans long before they were in any of our other cities4 ,in various forms and combinations1 it helped to give distinction to the famous local cuisine4 ,the ,frenchman who first ate an artichoke was as bold as the man who ate the first oyster1 for the plant looks like a thistle and he ran the risk of being classed with thistle-eating quadrupeds4 ,compared with the succulent globe of to-day it must have been thin1 dry1 and tough4 ,yet1 even now1 the artichoke is capable of much further improvement4 ,burbank1 if he had time1 might put as much meat into the base of each scale as there is now in the bottom1 and make the bottom as big as a full-sized turnip4 ,this suggests one of the many ways in which the study of gastronomy serves as a guide to wealth4 ,a rich harvest is sure to be reaped by those gardeners who will introduce to ,american markets the best ,french artichokes1 and by the dealers who will encourage their purchase by asking reasonable prices for them4 ,in ,december1 #aiab1 ,i asked a dealer in ,washington ,market1 ,new ,york1 why there were so few artichokes offered for sale4 ,they are so cheap--we can't get more than #ae cents apiece for them1 he replied4 ,that's the ,american way--at present4 ,for years importers and dealers have done their best to discourage the growing interest in another delicious basis for salad--the alligator-pear--by charging the most outrageous prices for it--usually twenty to fifty cents apiece1 though it can be bought in the ,west ,indies for a penny or two and brought to ,new ,york for a cent a pound4 ,even at such extortionate prices the demand usually exceeds the supply4 ,i often hunt for some all over town and usually end by saying1 ,what fools these dealers be4 ,the alligator-pear--or let us call it avocado1 please--is one of the ,creator's masterpieces--what we would call a stroke of genius had a mortal originated it4 ,but1 like other works of genius1 it is not appreciated by all--or at once4 ,an ,american1 writing from the ,west ,indies1 declared that there the avocado is ever present and always welcomed4 ,but1 he proceeds1 it is a pitfall and a snare1 and many a green foreigner has been taken in by the name and afterwards by the pear itself4 ,such a magnificent specimen of this luscious fruit1 the 'pear1' as the one seen in the ,jamaica markets causes the hand of the new arrival to go down promptly into his pocket for a penny with which the coveted fruit is secured4 ,yum1 yum6 ,a pear weighing three or four pounds6 ,what a feast6 ,the knife appears1 a generous slice is cut out1 but when it touches the palate6 ,yah6 ,it is a flat1 flabby1 tasteless vegetable 7although it grows on a tree71 but sliced and eaten with salt at the table it forms a pleasant relish4 ,had this man eaten it with ,french dressing he would have found it a food fit for gods4 ,the avocado was undoubtedly created to serve as a salad4 ,if you cut it in two1 lengthwise1 and take out the big stone1 you have two halves like those of a small melon4 ,the flesh1 firm though soft and custardy1 has a most exquisite flavor--a faint flavor which1 with oil and vinegar makes a symphony of fragrance4 ,until a few years ago ,i myself1 misled by poor specimens1 groped in utter darkness as to the enchantments of the avocado4 ,it was ,hildegarde ,hawthorne who1 returning from ,jamaica1 brought us some choice samples4 ,there was joy in the mansion thereat4 ,it was like the discovery of a new song by ,schubert or ,grieg1 or a new painting by ,titian4 ,after writing the above remarks ,i came across a clipping in which an evident epicure objected to desecrating the avocado pear by oil or mayonnaise dressing when served4 ,eat it with a spoon slowly1 he advises1 to give time for the pleasure it imparts to permeate the very soul1 and let who will rail at fate4 ,there are those who give it a slight sprinkling of salt1 others who dust it over with a little white pepper1 but personally ,i would as soon think of flavoring my currant jelly with garlic or my chateau ,yquem with ,trinidad rum4 ,this sounds plausible1 and ,i admit that a perfect avocado is better without than with vinegar and oil4 ,an imperfect one isn't2 and in most cases we have found in our dining-room that the avocado is rather too rich to be eaten without a little acid dressing4 ,it contains seventeen per cent4 of oil1 and is known in some regions as the butter fruit4 ,to return to ,france4 ,next to the artichoke and the escarole--which is the better of the two ,i don't know--the most desirable thing it has given us in the way of salads is the romaine--but how much whiter1 crisper and tenderer it is in ,paris than what is offered for sale under that name in ,new ,york6 ,another chance to coin good money1 messieurs gardeners6 ,americans must have the best1 and if you don't supply it1 a rival will4 ,the ,american lobster and shrimp salads cannot be beaten2 but we have much to learn of the ,french and other ,europeans as to the endless varieties of green1 vegetable1 fish and meat salads by way of multiplying the pleasures of the table1 and banishing intestinal dyspepsia1 for which salads are more remedial than ,fletcherizing4 ,when once the importance of this subject is fully understood1 salads will become the principal lunch dishes in ,american homes and restaurants1 especially during the hot months when to be three miles from a lemon--or something else that is refreshingly sour--is a hygienic tragedy4 ,fruit salads1 when not sour1 make desirable desserts4 ,when not sour1 such combinations should not be called salads4 ,as a rule sour fruit mixtures seem incongruous to a trained palate4 ,in these days of ,debussyan influences one must be prepared for all sorts of anarchistic combinations of flavors4 ,personally1 ,i draw the line at the compound of ,roquefort cheese and sour salad now placed unblushingly on some ,american tables4 ,the mixture of these two delicacies is awful4 ,one can easily see how the illegitimate union was suggested by the illogical custom of serving cheese with salad1 dressed or undressed--the usual ,english way4 ,,vegetables ,,as ,a ,,separate ,,course4 ,the mess just referred to1 which would make a ,parisian gourmet shudder1 is only one illustration of the ,anglo-,american mistaken policy of serving together foods that are preferable separately4 ,on this point1 too1 ,france has an important lesson to teach us1 particularly in the serving of vegetables4 ,the making of a menu requires as much taste and judgment as the arranging of a concert program4 ,next to variety1 contrast is the most important thing to be considered4 ,a vegetable served separately provides some of this needful contrast4 ,an ,english epicure declares that the secret of the excellence in ,french cookery lies in the lavish use of vegetables4 ,where we use one kind1 ,french cooks use twenty4 ,this point was sufficiently dwelt on in the paragraphs relating to the making of savory soups and stews4 ,it illustrates ,gallic skill in culinary orchestration4 ,but the ,french know that at a dinner1 as at a concert1 a solo piece is desirable1 and therefore they always serve one choice vegetable as a separate course4 ,as a matter of course the vegetable selected for this distinction--be it peas1 beans1 spinach1 cauliflower1 asparagus1 artichoke1 carrots1 or whatnot--must be particularly fresh and succulent4 ,it must also1 like the singer's solo number1 have an accompaniment1 that is to say an appropriate sauce4 ,no ,french cook would spoil the delicate natural flavor of green peas with mint1 as the ,english do4 ,i once asked a waiter in a ,london restaurant why mint was put with the peas4 ,he promptly replied3 ,peas 'ave no flavor1 sir6 ,in ,france1 butter 7,french butter7 is used as the best accompaniment to a solo vegetable4 ,it makes the string beans and whatever else it goes with more savory1 without obliterating their individual flavor1 as the mint does in the case of peas4 ,,paris ,,restaurants4 ,the ,french have reason to boast that the gastronomic center of the world is in ,paris1 within a circle intersected by a line drawn from the ,place de l',opra to the ,place ,vendme4 ,in this region there are scores of restaurants of the first rank in which one eats the best soups and stews1 the best veal1 the best poultry1 the best salads and sauces1 the best vegetables1 the best entres1 the best bread and butter1 the best cheeses1 to be found anywhere on this big planet of ours4 ,some persons1 for sufficient reasons1 prefer ,english roast meats or ,german1 ,swiss1 or ,austrian pastry1 but in the preparation of the foods just named ,french supremacy is unquestionable4 ,it takes months--and a big purse--to get an adequate idea of the good things offered at the ,paris restaurants4 ,each has its special dishes and sauces1 handed down in some cases from generation to generation4 ,not to have a unique sauce for sole1 or a monopoly in a special kind of soup1 would subject an establishment to the danger of being classed as second-rate4 ,paris is full of professional epicures--prominent among them are authors and journalists--who frequent certain places for special famous dishes and who quickly resent any deterioration or carelessness on the part of the chef4 ,it is these connoisseurs who are served best2 they are willing to give the cook time to prepare a dish scientifically1 and they take time to eat it hygienically1 that is1 with lingering enjoyment of its appetizing flavors4 ,these gourmets appreciate epicurean subtleties like that practiced by the late ,frdric of the ,tour d',argent1 who held that different kinds of fuel should be used for the roasting of different kinds of meat1 believing that the spiced scents of some woods transmitted in the cooking add to the pleasure of eating all kinds of game2--a notion which was acted on by the ancient ,romans as well as by ,japanese gourmets1 and which is also justified by the fact that in the smoking of ham and bacon it makes a decided difference what kind of wood is burned4 ,illustration3 ,boeuf la ,mode ,one of the oldest ,parisian restaurants is the ,boeuf la ,mode which1 for more than a century1 has owed its vogue in part to its special way of preparing and serving the dish after which it is named4 ,a specialty of these restaurants is pancake4 ,in our own country ,french pancake is usually a thick1 leathery griddle cake rolled round a spoonful of jelly and served tepid on a tepid plate4 ,in ,paris the head waiter himself attends to the important function of putting the finishing touches on the cakes4 ,they are brought in from the kitchen thin1 crisp1 and hot2 but that is not enough4 ,the waiter has before him a chafing dish into which he puts one of the cakes1 with a hard sauce1 and some liqueur which is set on fire4 ,he has also before him a pile of hot plates for each of the diners2 into one of these plates each cake is transferred when ready and brought to you by another waiter1 to be eaten red-hot4 ,it is worth a trip across the ,atlantic to eat those pancakes4 ,mutton on the best ,parisian menus is not simply mutton4 ,it is mutton of a particular vintage1 and in some cases the name of the breeder of the sheep is printed on the bill of fare4 ,fruit is brought to the table in large baskets4 ,cherries1 and particularly the fragrant wild strawberries1 seem doubly appetizing when served that way4 ,a fragrant ,french melon sometimes perfumes a whole dining-room4 ,those who have to count their francs1 however1 had better inquire as to prices before indulging freely in fancy fruits4 ,very expensive1 though worth the money1 are the langoustes1 which are as good as the ,american lobster4 ,better still are the crevisses1 or crawfish1 which are kept on sale alive in the great market place1 and are therefore always good1 and safe to eat4 ,some restaurants are favored for their lunches1 others for their dinners1 still others for their late suppers4 ,in this last class1 it is needless to say1 vulgar extravagance prevails4 ,usually there is the latest kind of dancing1 or music1 or some other kind of stupefying noise1 and gastronomy takes a back seat4 ,warm weather brings into favor the summer restaurants1 in which usually one can lunch or dine in the garden or under a tree4 ,that the breathing of outdoor air while eating is as great an appetizer as the savory food itself1 is one of the many lessons we have yet to learn of the ,french and other ,europeans4 ,how did the restaurants of ,paris get their culinary supremacy8 ,during the ,revolution many of the nobles were ruined1 and their chefs--among them ,mot1 ,robert1 ,roze1 ,vry1 ,leda1 ,legacque1 ,beauvilliers1 ,naudet1 ,edon became caterers to gourmets at large4 ,beauvilliers1 who established his restaurant about #aghb1 was for fifteen years the most famous restaurateur of ,paris1 and provided liberally such delicate and sublimated dishes as those which had hitherto been found only on the tables of the king1 of the nobles1 and of the farmers-general4 ,the great restaurateurs of modern ,paris are nearly all successors of one or the other of the famous cooks above mentioned1 as ,theodore ,child pointed out4 ,in the ,bibliothque ,nationale in ,paris ,i came across books giving curious glimpses of the restaurants at earlier periods4 ,in #aegd there was published a ,discours sur les causes de l'extrme chert qui est aujourd'hui en ,france et sur les moyens d'y remdier4 ,the author complains that people are no longer satisfied with three courses but must have meats in half-a-dozen styles1 with sauces1 hachs1 pasticeries1 all sorts of salmigondis1 etc4 ,every one he says1 now goes to dine at ,le ,more1 ,sanson1 ,innocent1 or ,havart1 maistres de volupt et despense1 qui en une chose publique bien police et regle seraient bannis et chassez comme corrupteurs des murs4 ,this diatribe against the providers of savory food as corruptors of public morals who1 if the police tended to its duty1 would be chased from the city1 seems to indicate that ,puritan ideas on the subject of the enjoyment of food once prevailed even in ,france4 ,as late as #ahdb there were only seventeen restaurants in ,paris1 where now there are more than seventeen times seventeen4 ,at the date mentioned1 most of them were near the ,palais ,royal1 and one could dine for two francs--forty cents6--while lunch was only a franc and a quarter4 ,there were places where a workman could get1 for twenty centimes 7four cents71 bread1 wine1 soup1 and meat enough for a meal4 ,in ,paris1 as elsewhere1 prices have soared since that time1 but correspondingly cheap eating places abound in all quarters4 ,the lowest-priced restaurants likely to be patronized by tourists and resident foreigners are the ,duval1 and other ,bouillons1 at which one who knows may get good dishes4 ,well-to-do ,parisians and foreigners may often be seen in these eating places1 and one of them actually has a star of excellence in ,baedeker4 ,at one of these establishments ,i had one of the best petites marmites ,i have ever eaten4 ,if you don't know what a petite marmite is ,i am sorry for you4 ,i have dined repeatedly with a ,frenchman noted both as artist and epicure1 and each time he ordered petite marmite4 ,if you ask a ,french head waiter's advice in ,london or ,paris1 he is more likely than not to suggest petite marmite4 ,it is so good1 and the making of it gives such a deep insight into ,french methods that ,i will quote the recipe by ,escoffier in his ,le ,guide ,culinaire4 ,it is for ten people4 ,nutritious elements3 #b lbs4 beef1 one lb4 lean1 the other well mixed with fat1 as the end of a rib4 #a marrowbone wrapped in cheese-cloth1 #a fowl--not too young and tender1 giblets from four fowls4 ,liquid3 #c litres 7about three quarts7 of white consomm--recipe follows--the seasoning to be added just before serving4 ,aromatic elements3 #b-e lb4 carrots 7#bjj grammes71 #b-e lb4 nearly ripe turnips1 #c-aj lb4 leeks 7#aej grammes71 #a small celery heart1 lb4 cabbage1 blanched1 cooked separately with bouillon and drippings4 ,observations3 ,the ',petite ,marmite' consomm is served without clarifying1 and owes its merit only to the materials which it contains and the extreme care brought to its preparation4 ,it must be served slightly fat4 ,its special savor1 different from clarified consomm1 must recall the homely ,pot-au-feu1 and be recognized unmistakably in ,croute au pot1 ,consomm la ,bouchre1 and others of which it is the base1 the only difference being that these consomms do not need absolutely to have fowl in them1 whereas it is rigorously obligatory in the ,petite ,marmite4 ,for #aj litres of white consomm #g kilos of beef 7between #ad and #ae lbs47 #d kilos being lean meat1 the other #c soup bone1 #ba-e lbs4 carrots 7#e or #f71 #ijj grammes 7nearly #b lbs47 turnips1 #a lb4 leeks1 #b-e lb4 parsnips1 #b medium-sized onions1 #c cloves1 #c cloves of garlic1 #c pieces celery1 #ad litres 7#ad quarts approximately7 cold water1 #gj grammes brown salt 7salt that has not been purified74 ,cook five hours4 ,observations3 ,simple consomm is habitually cooked #e hours1 which is quite sufficient to get all the nutritious elements from the beef4 ,on the other hand this is quite insufficient for the bones and fails to extract their nutritive principles4 ,to obtain this result slow cooking from #ab to #ae hours is necessary4 ,in great kitchens it has become the habit to make a first consomm with the bones 7crushed7 which will cook at least #ab hours4 ,this consomm is then used for a second cooking of the meat alone which takes about #d hours1 that is only the time necessary to cook the meat4 ,this second operation can be shortened by cutting meat and vegetables in small pieces and clarifying them as usual4 ,as the ,american practice of bluffing--of charging a high price for a poor thing1 to make the consumer think it must be good--is not a ,parisian trait1 the more expensive the restaurant1 the better the food is likely to be4 ,next to the ,bouillons1 in the culinary hierarchy1 are the ,brasseries4 ,at these1 one can get well prepared dishes at reasonable prices1 which are always marked on the bill of fare2 and1 as the name indicates1 one can take a glass of beer or a bottle of mineral water instead of the expensive wine which the highest class restaurants expect every one to order1 on penalty of perhaps not being served with a meal prepared in the chef's best mood4 ,these leading restaurants are at present in the throes of a serious struggle for existence2 pessimists go so far as to predict the extinction of the whole species in the not very distant future4 ,the ,maison ,dore and the ,caf ,riche had to make way some years ago for business houses that could better afford to pay the soaring rents1 and in #aiab the ,durand was transformed into a tailoring establishment4 ,of the old classical restaurants the ,tour d',argent1 ,laprouse1 ,paillard1 ,buf la ,mode1 ,voisin1 hold their own1 yet ,i have dined in them on evenings when they were anything but crowded4 ,doubtless the custom of some of these places of not affixing prices to the viands offered on the bill of fare has had something to do with bringing about this result4 ,even a well-to-do diner does not always care to be entirely at the mercy of the head waiter in the making-up of his bill4 ,but it is the multiplying of the brasseries that is chiefly responsible for the decline of the high-priced restaurants1 and another dangerous rival that has helped to bring it about is the palatial1 up-to-date hotel4 ,some of these hotels employ as good chefs as the leading restaurants and offer as abundant opportunities for sumptuous and savory repasts1 at prices tall enough to please the most reckless visitor from ,new ,york or ,buenos ,ayres4 ,gourmets will doubtless continue to frequent the classical restaurants as long as they maintain their high standard4 ,it would be a historic as well as a gastronomic calamity to have them disappear4 ,if necessary the ,government should give them a subvention as it does to the ,opra and the ,thtre ,franais2 for these epicurean establishments have done quite as much as the theaters to make ,france famous among the civilized nations of the world4 ,it is owing to them that ,french long ago became the culinary world-language4 ,go wherever you please1 from ,paris to ,berlin1 to ,lucerne1 ,milan1 ,vienna1 ,constantinople1 ,tokio2 or1 in the other direction1 to ,london1 ,new ,york1 ,chicago1 ,san ,francisco1 ,melbourne1--everywhere1 at the leading restaurants1 you will find the menu printed in ,french1 and1 in case of a course dinner1 the viands offered in the order prescribed by ,french gourmets4 ,in ,germany1 after the ,franco-,prussian war1 chauvinistic attempts were made to banish ,french words from the bill of fare4 ,these attempts were1 as ,hermann ,dunger frankly admits in his ,verdeutschungswrterbuch 7#ahhb71 a failure2 in some cases the comic consequence was that ,germans who recognized a dish under its ,french name hadn't the remotest idea what it was when translated into their own language4 ,like the ,italian forte1 piano1 adagio1 diminuendo1 and other musical expression marks1 ,french gastronomic words have become parts of a spontaneous ,esperanto--a world-language1 which has come to stay2 a perpetual reminder of the most important contribution made by the great ,french nation to modern civilization--the gradual substitution1 everywhere1 and particularly in ,germany and ,england1 of refined methods of preparing food in place of the barbarous medival ones prevalent until two centuries ago4 ,we get an interesting glimpse of ,french gastronomic leadership by glancing at the words successively adopted by the ,germans4 ,in #agae1 when the ,frauenzimmerlexicon of ,amaranthes appeared1 the following ,french words had already gained currency1 among them3 bouillon1 carbonade1 champignon1 ctelette1 coulis1 crme1 la daube1 entremets1 farce1 fricadelle1 fricandeau1 fricass1 gele1 hachis1 marinieren1 omelette1 pikant1 potage1 ragout1 saucisse2 and for most of these there was no exact equivalent in ,german4 ,during the time of ,louis ,,xv ,germany further imported the following3 dejeuner1 diner1 souper1 dessert1 entre1 fumet1 haut-got1 poularde1 saucire1 sorbet1 table d'hte1 bonbon1 champagne1 limonade1 liqueur4 ,to a later period belong braiser1 buf la mode1 consomm1 filet1 hors d'uvre1 konserve1 roulade4 ,these as well as the words gastronome and gourmand were imported during the early decades of the nineteenth century4 ,to the second half of the century belong croquette1 entrecte1 flan1 remoulade1 meringue1 pure1 vol-au-vent4 ,the word menu was not adopted in ,germany till after #ahej4 ,,russian ,,and ,,american ,,influences4 ,in ,paris as in ,new ,york one can make a gastronomic tour of the world4 ,while the ,french1 in return for all the culinary terms they have lent their neighbors seem to have adopted only one ,teutonic word 7,bock1 for beer71 they amiably tolerate the presence within their walls of ,german and ,austrian restaurants1 some of which are excellent1 though thoroughly exotic from the ,french point of view4 ,in one of them the host is so much of an epicure himself that in his delight with the ,viennese menu he sketches for you1 he will blow a kiss at the enjoyments it calls up in his imagination4 ,most ,germans and ,austrians1 however1 are glad to frequent the ,french restaurants while in ,paris1 and the same1 as ,col4 ,newnham-,davis informs us1 is true of the ,english visitor1 though if he desires a chop or a steak1 he can have one made to order in one of the many grill rooms in foreign style that have come into existence1 and in one of which the joints of beef and mutton are wheeled to the tables and carved there to order1 as in some ,london eating houses4 ,the ,italians are more apt to cling to their own style of cookery1 and they have plenty of places adorned with ,chianti bottles where they can have their spaghetti1 their risotto1 their fritto misto1 and their other excellent fries4 ,the ,spanish also have places where they can indulge their appetite for home dishes2 and so have many other nations1 including ,greeks1 as well as the ,turks and other ,orientals4 ,of all the foreigners only two1 the ,russians and the ,americans1 have had a definite influence on the ,french cuisine and menu--and not to their advantage1 it must be confessed4 ,from the ,russians the ,paris restaurateurs borrowed the custom of beginning a meal with hors d'uvres1 or appetizers4 ,i remember the time when the hors d'uvres in ,france simply meant radishes1 butter1 and a few thin slices of sausage which were placed on the table at once and against indulging in which the guide books warned tourists unless they were prepared to face a substantial addition to their bill4 ,to-day1 the price of the appetizers is usually noted on the bill of fare1 and it is not at all high1 even at the aristocratic restaurants4 ,cold smoked salmon1 tunny fish1 sardines1 baby artichokes in oil1 various vegetable1 fish1 and lobster salads1 cold eggs1 sliced sausages1 and sundry other delicacies are offered1 with bread and butter4 ,these things undoubtedly are good1 and they are appetizers2 but they are also appetite destroyers--quite too substantial to preface an elaborate dinner4 ,in ,russia and ,scandinavia1 where the extreme cold creates a ravenous appetite and a great capacity for stowing away things1 they may be all right2 but in temperate climes1 and for dwellers in cities who get little exercise1 they are too heavy4 ,when ,i see one of these displays of cold dishes ,i always think what a tempting lunch they would make all by themselves2 but if ,i eat them before dinner ,i certainly cannot enjoy what follows as much as ,i would without them2 and that1 ,i believe1 is the experience of most diners who are not neighbors of the ,eskimos4 ,it is different with caviare and oysters4 ,these are merely appetizers1 containing little nourishment2 but caviare is not for everybody1 and as for oysters1 since they must be served ice-cold1 it is unwise to chill the stomach by beginning with them4 ,let them follow the soup1 which is1 because of its warmth and its stimulating effect on the digestive glands1 the best thing to begin a meal with4 ,muskmelons and grapefruit may be allowed to precede it if served without ice1 which certainly impairs their flavor4 ,while adopting the ,russian hors d'uvre habit1 the ,parisians have had too much taste and moderation to indulge in its ,gargantuan extremes4 ,the performances of ,russians and ,swedes border on the miraculous4 ,if ,russians in ,paris cannot everywhere indulge in the riotous profusion of hors d'uvre they have at home1 they can do so at ,la ,rue's1 which has a full line of them and also of diverse other mets ,russes nationaux4 ,americans who wish to eat ham and eggs1 or hash1 or corn muffins1 griddle cakes1 breakfast cereals and that sort of thing1 may find them in hotels and in not a few of the restaurants4 ,american lobsters1 at ,eiffel ,tower prices1 are on every menu1 and there are places where oysters from across the ,atlantic1 as well as native1 can be ordered raw1 scalloped1 fried1 broiled1 or in diverse stews1 tout comme chez nous4 ,the numerous grill rooms are also accommodating1 though they do not open early enough to offer an ,american breakfast1 while the hotels seldom venture on anything beyond bacon and eggs before lunch time4 ,it would be well if the ,parisians ate an ,american breakfast and followed it up with a lighter lunch2 but it would require another revolution to bring about such a reform4 ,paris has become considerably ,americanized4 ,one can hardly wonder at having our cotton seed oil served instead of the noble juice of the olive at the cheap restaurants2 but when ,i found that it was used unblushingly at some of the more expensive places ,i was shocked at this sign of decadence--or effrontery--and visions of cold storage poultry1 salted butter1 and doughy bread with inedible crust--but no6 such things no one would ever dare to place before ,parisians6 ,the fact that their own olive oil is not as a rule equal to the best ,italian may have made them for the moment tolerant of the ,american invader4 ,the health authorities speak of diverse other substitutions and adulterants as being in use2 but these are not necessarily ,american1 though we lead the world in our tolerance of them4 ,what the ,parisians chiefly complain about in reference to ,american influence is that it has introduced our national vice of hurry into the kitchen and the dining-room4 ,when so many of the wealthiest patrons of the restaurants expect to get dishes served at a moment's notice1 to be gulped down and hastily followed by others1 the very strongholds of gastronomic ,france--slow cooking and leisurely eating--are assailed4 ,the chief danger to the ,french cuisine lies in the fact that1 as ,mr4 ,paderewski put it in a talk ,i had with him on this subject1 it is so much easier to prepare a meal the ,american way4 ,south ,americans1 though they have little to boast of at home in the way of pleasures of the table1 adapt themselves more easily to ,french ways1 and as they are rapidly increasing in numbers in ,paris and spend even more money than the ,north ,americans1 their influence will perhaps counteract that of the impatient visitors from the ,united ,states1 who usually know so much more about making dollars than about spending them rationally4 ,every ,american has attended banquets at which there was more to feast the eyes than the palate4 ,in the ,figaro ,marcel ,prvost complained 7#aiaj7 that this sort of thing was gaining in ,paris4 ,mangeront-ils8 he asked--will ,parisians of the future eat8 ,judging by the present tendency1 they will not1 he answers--they will feed4 ,they will take nourishment1 but gastronomy1 the art of dining with intelligence and pleasure1 will have ceased to exist4 ,in the house the cause of this change is what ,prvost calls the progrs de la coquetterie fminine4 ,women1 to be sure1 were never the greatest of the culinary artists1 but they used to pay some attention to food and its preparation1 whereas at present their chief thought is of the appearance of the dining-room and the table4 ,the linen1 the porcelain1 the glassware1 must be of the finest1 the flowers of the costliest1 but the food and wine are provided by a paid caterer1 who seldom knows his business4 ,as for eating in restaurants or hotels1 that is no better4 ,the famous maisons have disappeared1 to be replaced by huge palaces1 in which everything is showy and sumptuous but the food everywhere the same1 without distinction or individuality4 ,what is worse1 the younger generation does not seem to regret this4 ,french youth even drink ,american cocktails and are not ashamed6 ,while there is no doubt some truth in these allegations they are absurdly exaggerated4 ,complaints as to the decadence of ,french cookery have been made at regular intervals--like the complaints about the disappearance of great singers4 ,i once amused myself by writing an article covering three centuries1 in which ,i quoted the laments of each generation over the decline of the art of song as compared with the brilliant achievements of the preceding generation of singers4 ,were it worth while ,i might compile equally amusing evidence on the subject of the ,french cuisine4 ,thackeray complained of a similarity of dinners4 ,charles ,monselet in #ahgi1 looked in vain for the tables that are praised or the hosts that are renowned4 ,in #ahff ,nestor ,roqueplan complained that the ,french no longer find places devoted to the ,flemish kitchen1 others to the ,normandy1 ,lyonnaise1 ,toulousian1 ,bordelaise1 or ,provenal kitchens4 ,but he had the good sense to add that ,france nevertheless is still the country where eating is found at its best4 ,so it is at the present day1 and is likely to be for years to come4 ,no matter how many of the best chefs are taken away by ,american millionaires or ,russian ,grand ,dukes1 ,paris remains the world's high school of culinary art4 ,,provincial ,,local ,,flavors4 ,while there may be fewer opportunities than there were formerly to get special ,lyonnaise1 ,toulousian1 or ,bordelaise dishes in ,paris1 the ,provinces themselves offer abundant opportunity to study and enjoy the infinite variety of ,french cookery4 ,how large a field is open to the student may be inferred from the fact that ,col4 ,newnham-,davis devotes no fewer than seventy pages of his ,gourmet's ,guide to ,europe to a study of the inns1 hotels1 and restaurants of ,provincial ,france4 ,he found that almost every town of any importance has some special dish or some special pt of its own2 there are hundreds of good old inns where the cuisine is that of their province1 and there are great tracts of country which ought to be marked by some special color on all guide-book maps1 where the cookery is universally good4 ,this noted ,english epicure advises gourmets who have time to journey leisurely and especially those who have an automobile at command1 to make a journey of gastronomic exploration in the district between ,montpellier and ,toulouse1 which is a cradle of good cooks and where some of the traditions of cookery of the old ,romans still linger4 ,the land of the ,meuse1 the ,moselle1 and the ,sane is another and more northerly paradise of good cooking4 ,in ,dordogne there is not a peasant who cannot get a traveler en panne a truffled omelette which would make an alderman's mouth water 444 and all the ,midi from the ,alps to the ,pyrenees is a happy hunting ground for the gastronome4 ,illustration3 ,coming to market1 ,brittany ,my own experience in these regions is much more limited1 but wherever ,i followed this epicure's advice ,i found him a reliable guide4 ,in most parts of ,france1 however1 a guide to good cheer is hardly needed1 for you can stop at almost any inn with the assurance of getting a savory lunch1 dinner1 or supper4 ,in ,provenal inns garlic is no doubt used too freely1 but no harm can come to those who cannot stomach it1 since its warning appeals as distinctly to the nose as the rattlesnake's does to the ear4 ,the ,pyrenees are famed for trout and chicken4 ,the chicken we found excellent1 the trout less so4 ,an innkeeper with whom ,i discussed the matter admitted frankly that they left something to be desired in the matter of flavor4 ,a ,parisian epicure to whom ,i had mentioned trout one day1 shook his head and suggested sole or turbot instead4 ,sole is at its best at ,dieppe4 ,in that town there is a restaurant1 formerly frequented by ,whistler1 where the waiter1 to please fastidious guests1 proudly serves soles caught with his own hands in the early morning hours4 ,cannes has a hotel the guests of which can go to a tank and with a net catch the particular fishes they want to eat half an hour later4 ,at ,aix-les-,bains there is a caterer who will not have any salt-water fish in his larder1 for ,aix in summer is so hot that sea fish do not always come to table quite fresh1 and this risk he will not run1 in the interest of his clients4 ,america is not the only country where oysters are cheap4 ,at ,caen one pays only ten or twelve cents for a dozen of the best bivalves from ,ouistreham and ,courselles4 ,all along the ,french coast1 west and south1 one comes across dishes which owe their unique and usually delicious flavor to some special variety of shell fish1 peculiar to the place1 which is added to the sauce4 ,marseilles is perhaps the best place for experimenting with shellfishes new to the visitor's palate4 ,that this city owes its international fame largely to a special marine stew called bouillabaisse everybody knows4 ,as ,i have eaten this dish in ,marseilles itself but once and that so long ago that ,i do not remember the details1 ,i will quote ,col4 ,newnham-,davis's graphic remarks on it3 ,the ,southerners firmly believe that this dish cannot be properly made except of the fish that swim in the ,mediterranean2 the rascaz1 a little fellow all head and eyes1 being an essential in the savory stew1 along with the eel1 the lobster1 the dory1 the mackerel1 and the girelle4 ,thackeray has sung the ballad of the dish as he used to eat it and his recette1 because it is poetry1 is accepted1 though it is but the fresh-water edition of the stew4 ,if you do not like oil1 garlic1 and saffron1 which all come into its composition1 give it a wide berth2 but ,i should mention that the bouillabaisse at the ,reserve is quite a mild and lady-like stew compared to that one gets at ,bregailla's or the restaurants of the ,rue ,noailles4 ,marseilles is not far from ,italy1 but before we proceed to that country1 to learn what it can teach us in regard to wholesome and enjoyable foods1 we must return for a moment to ,paris to consider a few more of the specialties in which it asserts its gastronomic supremacy4 ,however interesting the ,provinces may be because of their local dishes and delicacies1 and because of the proof they afford that the value of well-cooked food is appreciated throughout ,france1 their most important function1 from our point of view1 is that of providing the first-class material out of which the ,parisian cooks prepare their chefs d'uvres of culinary art4 ,this material is sent daily from all directions to the metropolis in special express trains1 to be offered for sale in the ,halles ,centrales1 which1 to the lover of good food and beautiful flowers1 is one of the most interesting spots on earth4 ,,the ,,world',s ,,greatest ,,market ,,place4 ,emile ,zola made these ,halles ,centrales the background of one of his naturalistic stories1 ,le ,ventre de ,paris4 ,even his realistic and graphic descriptions fail1 however1 to convey an adequate idea of the colossal food traffic carried on in this market place1 which1 to be sure1 is now much bigger than it was when he wrote his novel1 not long after the erection of the vast structure1 in #ahea4 ,ten pavilions there are in this building1 each of them containing two hundred and fifty stalls4 ,retail dealers are installed in the front pavilions1 while the others are occupied by the wholesale vendors1 whose business also overflows into the streets leading to the market place4 ,for the storing of provisions there is further a cellar under the ,halles1 divided into twelve hundred compartments4 ,to see this food market in its most characteristic aspects one has to get up long before the sun4 ,it was half past four on a ,may morning when my wife and ,i unbolted the door of our hotel and hailed an auto-taxi to take us to the ,halles4 ,all ,paris was still in bed1 with the exception of the street-cleaners1 who were giving the city its morning bath1 a few chauffeurs1 and the market gardeners1 porters1 vendors and buyers whose business it is to bring and distribute the daily provisions of the ,french metropolis4 ,the following details as to what we saw are taken from an article written by my companion3 ,at this early hour buyers are still rare4 ,inquisitive ,americans may wander about with the freedom of disembodied spirits1 and without attracting much more attention4 ,we kept discreetly out of the way of hurrying porters and of swearing cartmen who were bringing their huge loads of vegetables to market4 ,from the carts enormous mounds of carrots1 long white turnips1 cauliflowers1 salads of all kinds1 cabbages1 sorrel tied in neat packages1 radishes black and red1 were being unloaded and stacked with incredible dexterity and rapidity1 each mound a picture2 the carrots and turnips were built up in square fortresses1 the vegetables turned outward with perfect regularity1 an orange and white feast to the eye1 as well as a promise of joys to come for the palate4 ,beside these are heaped pointed cabbages of freshest green2 cauliflowers as white as bridal bouquets2 lettuces laid head down2 escarole and romaine lying on their sides1 displaying round1 appetizing tips2 chicory1 a frizzled tangle of greenish white2 while nearby bee-hive heaps of rosy radishes add another vivid color note4 ,illustration3 ,the world's greatest market place ,a little farther on our noses are greeted by the most exquisite perfumes1 coming from large baskets of strawberries--the big cultivated ones--and the still more fragrant wild berries1 the 'petites fraises des bois' which ,parisians so dote on4 ,cherries1 too1 are plentiful1 but they do not fill the air with luscious odors1 as do the strawberries1 though their deeper red1 the gloss of their perfect surface and the contrasting pale green of their stems are a delight to the eye4 ,the stheticism of the ,paris ,halles is one of its dominant characteristics4 ,flowers appear in every corner mixed in with the stalls for edibles4 ,although a whole cross-street is given over to them1 they are too abundant1 ,paris loves them too well1 and needs too many for them to find sufficient room in one place only4 ,a whole long block is devoted to bleuets1 the simple corn flowers of the fields1 packed in bunches a foot square2 but roses reign supreme1 pink1 red1 tea1 moss1 of all varieties1 picked fresh and adding their perfumes to those of fruits and vegetables4 ,there are also masses of irises1 ,france's flower1 yellow and blue2 spicy pinks1 ranging from white to dark red1 through all the shades from palest salmon to deep rose2 pansies1 purple or yellow1 bunched by colors2 peonies1 rose-scented1 long stemmed1 heavy-headed1 in crimson1 in pink1 in white2 ,iceland poppies1 bitterly fragrant1 white1 yellow1 orange4 ,it is almost impossible to tear one's self away from this riot of color and perfume1 but there are so many sights that demand attention4 ,even the dead are not forgotten in the great market1 for in one section of the ,halles1 under its huge resounding roof1 one may buy the bead wreaths which are made to adorn ,french graveyards4 ,there is almost a western ,american atmosphere in this light touching upon death in this center of vivid life1 and once more we realize the kinship between ,french and ,americans--except in the matter of eating1 in which alas1 we are so far behind them4 ,the fish market does not open till late1 for ,paris wants its fish fresh caught1 but there is the meat market to see1 and there are still streets and streets of vegetables1 streets filled with people1 especially of busy porters with full or empty 'hottes'--the large baskets used in carrying vegetables--on their backs2 or with the flat fruit baskets1 four feet by two and a half1 balanced on their heads1 on which they carry loads of other baskets filled with strawberries1 walking along as calmly as if they were alone in the world1 and as if the streets were not slippery with vegetable leaves4 ,we found it difficult to keep our footing on this green refuse from cabbages and lettuces1 carrots and turnips1 which had been cut off at one blow by the men who stacked them4 ,but it was all fresh1 clean1 and sweet smelling4 ,illustration3 ,paris market porters ,by six o'clock the vegetable mounds had disappeared almost entirely1 as if melted away by the rising sun1 and one understands why photographs of the ,paris market are so scarce4 ,when the sun finally shines through the soft morning haze there is little left to snap-shot4 ,three porters in blue blouses with 'hottes' on their backs politely consented to pose1 and a pretty ,parisian girl1 brown-eyed and red-cheeked1 had gladly stood near her pile of sorrel to be caught in the camera4 ,the artichokes do not pose well4 ,great baskets heaped with these green scaly globes fill one street1 but to catch them is next to impossible4 ,first a cart gets stalled in front of a particularly fine group1 and when that is gone there is a mass of people who must pass4 ,every one who notices the photographic attempts asks ',is it for the ,cinma8'--the ,paris rage of the moment--and one good-natured1 impertinent ,parisian asks if photographs are for sale and at what price4 ,he is really so 'sympathique1' in the ,french sense1 that one immediately confides one's desires and difficulties to him4 ,at the chicken stalls1 where the would-be photographer has to change a film1 she finds an exhibition of the lower-class rudeness1 and also of the lower-class politeness of the ,french market woman4 ,from a corner which seemed to belong to no one she is rudely requested to move on1 while ten steps farther on she is made welcome1 given a chair1 questioned about the ',cinma1' and apologized to for the lack of civility of the other woman4 ,at another stall among the vegetables1 one saucy young woman gets well laughed at by her companions4 ,she is not too busy to notice the strangers1 and1 after looking them over with rather an impertinent stare1 she remarks that it is 'funny to see these ,english people in ,paris4' ,a laughing rejoinder from the strangers that they are not ,english but ,americans makes her look abashed1 much to the amusement of the other women4 ,illustration3 ,halles ,centrales ,in this retail department there are plenty of string beans which are better in ,paris than anywhere else1 but the best of which an ignorant ,american would not think of buying4 ,they are small and thin1 and streaked with black1 almost as if rusted4 ,to the eye they are far less tempting than the thick rich green beans in our markets1 but in taste they are more luscious4 ,on the other hand1 ,french peas are not equal1 usually1 to the ,english and ,american ones1 being harder and less sweet1 and therefore their flavor is not impaired1 as ours would be1 by the fact that the market-women sell some of them shelled4 ,a real genre picture they make1 three of these women1 dropping the pale green pearls into wooden bowls1 and talking even faster than they shell4 ,we passed rather hastily through the meat market1 although that is quite as interesting in its way as the other quarters1 but we were especially desirous to see the fish market in its glory4 ,however1 we had a rapid view of great beef carcasses hung in rows1 hundreds of lambs1 calves and other creatures1 and of the neat stalls where calves' heads1 pigs' and lambs' feet1 livers1 sweetbreads1 brains1 and even lungs are all hung in neat array1 or displayed attractively on slabs4 ,french dealers know to perfection how to set off their wares4 ,they have special methods of presenting their fine poultry so that no buyer can resist them1 no matter what the price may be for turkeys1 ducks1 capons and poulardes4 ,vine and other leaves for decorative purposes are sold regularly in the market1 and no one who has not seen it can imagine how much more tempting a fine ,camembert or ,pont l',evque can appear when it is set carefully on a fresh green leaf4 ,the large cheeses cannot be thus decorated1 but the smaller ones1 as well as the pats of ,normandy butter and the tempting little brown pots of delicately sour 'crme ,d',isigny1' are always displayed in this way4 ,the fine fruits1 too1 are made the object of solicitous care2 in one corner of the market we ran across two men who were tenderly unloading the most fragrant melons1 and arranging fine peaches1 six in a box1 laid carefully on a bed of soft white cotton4 ,the perfect bunches of grapes for which some wealthy ,american may1 later in the day1 pay a fabulous price at the ,caf de ,paris or at ,voisin's1 are temptingly exhibited in the same manner4 ,it is strange that ,paris is generally more sthetic and artistic in its food and flower displays than in those of the many other luxuries and fashions it provides for the world4 ,at six-thirty the fish market opens1 and as one approaches1 the deafening noise of the wholesalers1 crying their wares1 and selling to the highest bidder1 fills the ears4 ,the nose1 too1 takes cognizance of the perfume of the sea1 the salt freshness of recently caught fish1 quite different from the ancient and fish-like smell of an ordinary ,new ,york fish stall4 ,we breathe it in with almost as much pleasure as we did the fruit1 vegetable and flower perfumes4 ,here again the eyes are satisfied as well as the nose4 ,pale brown fish in a pale brown basket may be an accident1 but it is a happy one4 ,quantities of spiny 'langoustes1' with long feelers1 splotched with yellow and red2 of lobsters with huge claws2 of neatly arranged soles1 lying in pairs2 of beautifully marked ,spanish mackerel1 of great white skates1 and of many other sea-fish are being rapidly transferred from the wholesale to the retail departments4 ,in the fresh-water section1 huge tanks1 with water flowing in rapidly from great faucets1 hold carp1 eels1 and other fish1 all alive2 but the greater number of tanks are filled with scrambling hundreds of crawfish1 the much prized ,french 'crevisse1' which1 with the langoustes1 reach the high-water mark for shellfish prices in the restaurants--but they are worth it4 ,the crevisse is no better than our ,oregon crawfish1 but the latter are being rapidly exterminated1 whereas in ,france the delicious creatures are properly protected4 ,illustration3 ,a bit of the great ,paris market ,in this same section another ,french delicacy1 snails1 are for sale4 ,boxes full of them may be seen1 some of the snails remaining patiently in their home corral1 while others1 more adventurous1 were crawling up the fish tanks1 or had even dropped to the floor1 owing to their too great desire to explore the world4 ,the market itself is quite as much inclined to spread as the snails4 ,all the adjacent streets are filled with shops for edibles1 especially of the less perishable variety1 like cheeses of all kinds1 some as big as auto-wheels4 ,the cabarets do a brisk business in feeding the providers of ,paris food1 but foolishly we failed to try one of these places to discover what kind of breakfast the food-raisers themselves eat1 and we went back to our hotel hungry1 past all this mass of eatables1 past cafs which were just being opened1 where floors were being washed and chairs lay inhospitably on the tables4 ,one almost felt as if ,paris never was ready to eat breakfast4 ,besides the ,halles ,centrales there are a number of smaller covered markets distributed over the city1 much frequented on certain days by all classes4 ,women everywhere are fond of shopping1 but in ,france foreigners as well as natives revel in the joys of marketing4 ,read1 for instance1 this joyous outburst of an ,american girl dwelling in ,paris for her musical education3 ,now the mystery why the shops and galleries are almost deserted by the ,french on ,wednesdays and ,saturdays is explained4 ,they are all at the market1--a dense struggling1 chattering mob1 pawing away at the fresh country produce1 while above the din rise the shrieks and howls of the booth venders4 ,a lively1 a typically ,french scene4 ,you get one of those ,french net-work bags1 which will stretch to hold nearly a bushel of supplies1 and sail into the thick of the fray4 ,by the time you are out on the other side you are loaded to the ears with enough stuff to last the party a week and have spent just four francs4 ,celery1 one cent a bunch4 ,fresh country potatoes1 #ce cents a bushel4 ,country killed meats at one-half city prices4 ,it is more fun than a circus1 and from that time on you will set aside an hour every ,wednesday and ,saturday to go a-marketing1 as one of the prime joys of life4 ,,model ,,market ,,gardens4 ,the biggest vegetables and fruits are by no means always the best4 ,but1 given a good variety1 the ideal to be aimed at is to have it as big as possible while still young and tender4 ,this ideal the ,french market-gardeners live up to1 and that is what makes their productions a joy1 first to the eyes1 and then to the palate4 ,intensive cultivation is the key to the mystery of how it's done4 ,expert testimony is to the effect that the market gardens in and around ,paris are the best and most thoroughly cultivated patches of ground in ,europe4 ,from them at least threefold more produce is gathered than from similar extent of garden-ground elsewhere4 ,though the climate is far from mild--and even in the harshest months--whole trainloads of lettuce heads and other vegetables are sent daily from ,paris to other cities1 some of them as far away as ,russia4 ,eight crops in one year are frequently gathered from a garden4 ,no time is wasted2 while1 for instance1 the cos lettuce in one bed rears its head on high1 the ground underneath is already carpeted with the green leaves of a young crop of escaroles4 ,this rotation is one of the secrets of success4 ,thorough cultivation and enrichment of the soil constitute another1 some of the crops being grown in beds made up almost entirely of manure4 ,but mainly1 it is owing to the abundant watering of these gardens that the ,paris markets are throughout the hot season better supplied with crisp1 tender1 fresh vegetables than any other capital in ,europe4 ,water makes up nearly the whole substance of most vegetables--for instance1 over #hh per cent4 of carrots1 #ij of cabbage1 #ic of lettuce and pumpkins1 #ie of cucumbers4 ,withhold it on a few sunny days1 and the vegetables become mere masses of tough fiber4 ,as long ago as #ahgh1 ,w4 ,robinson1 ,f4 ,l4 ,s41 whose words ,i have just cited1 called attention in his valuable and beautifully illustrated book on the ,parks and ,gardens of ,paris to the anomalous fact that though all failures in ,english gardens are attributed to want of sun1 nevertheless if there is a warm and sunny season the market supplies soon run short1 owing to the absence of any preparation for watering garden crops4 ,three warm days in ,july show their effect in ,covent ,garden1 inconvenience the housekeeper1 and injure and reduce the supplies of vegetable food at a time when these are more than ever important for health4 ,since that time1 no doubt1 some improvement has been effected in ,england1 but ,covent ,garden ,market is still largely dependent on ,french gardeners for its best products1 in the line of vegetables1 and also of fruits and berries4 ,,mushrooms ,,and ,,truffles4 ,one of the most interesting chapters in ,mr4 ,robinson's book is on ,mushroom ,culture in ,caves ,under ,paris1 those he visited being at ,montrouge1 just outside the fortifications4 ,the beds are from sixty to eighty feet under the street and from this single cave the daily gathering averaged from four hundred to fifteen hundred pounds1 the favorite size of the mushroom gathered being about that of a chestnut4 ,there are thousands of abandoned stone quarries in ,france1 hundreds of which are used by mushroom growers1 who earn many millions a year by thus catering intelligently and zealously to the palates of their countrymen--and of foreigners1 too1 for there is a large export trade--in mushrooms1 fresh1 canned1 powdered1 bottled in oil or butter1 or preserved in other ways4 ,an odd detail about these caves is that1 although they are well ventilated1 the mushrooms refuse1 after a while1 to grow in them till after a general cleaning out and a rest of a year or two4 ,although1 both as a separate dish and as an ingredient of diverse sauces1 soups1 stews1 and gravies1 mushrooms play an important part in the cuisine of the ,french1 they seem on the whole to risk the eating of fewer varieties than are consumed in some other countries4 ,about a thousand different varieties are known to botanists1 yet in ,paris1 as ,i was informed by a professor of the ,university of ,lyons1 only twenty-five kinds are commonly eaten1 while in the markets of ,lyons only half-a-dozen sorts may be offered for sale4 ,one cannot but admire this prudent self-denial on the part of a race so addicted to the pleasures of the table4 ,in ,germany there are frequent expositions of mushrooms and other fungi1 for educational purposes4 ,in ,england the ,board of ,agriculture issued in #aiab a little book entitled ,edible and ,poisonous ,fungi1 with colored pictures of more than a dozen good mushrooms besides the one usually consumed 7,agaricus ,campestris74 ,an ,english friend of mine likes to recall the days of his boyhood when his breakfast consisted of several platefuls of mushrooms which he gathered every morning fresh under the trees4 ,in ,american forests mushrooms grow in superabundance1 but few are gathered for the table1 though most of them are harmless4 ,speaking of the hills of the ,blue ,ridge ,mountains near ,harper's ,ferry ,dr4 ,wiley says he has seen large areas of the forest almost covered with these growths in ,august and ,september1 but the courage leading to their consumption was wanting4#aj ,a picture in the ,fliegende ,bltter shows a little girl bringing a basket of mushrooms from the woods4 ,being asked by the pastor in passing if she is not afraid her family may be poisoned1 she answers cheerfully1 ,oh1 no6 ,we sell these4 ,the nutritive value of mushrooms is small4 ,it is on account of their delicious and varied ,flavors that they are gathered and cultivated2 and ,flavor1 as has been pointed out so many times in the preceding pages1 is so important to good digestion and consequent health that it is a great pity that in eating them one runs the risk of a painful death2 at least in the case of wild mushrooms1 some of which aggravate their offensiveness by trying to look as much as possible like certain harmless specimens4 ,while truffles1 like mushrooms1 grow all over ,europe1 as well as on other continents1 in many varieties1 it is the ,french1 again1 who have taught the world the most valuable lessons regarding their diverse uses for flavoring soups1 sauces1 meats1 and gravies4 ,the ,french varieties happen to be the best of all1 especially those grown in ,prigord and in the ,department ,vaucluse1 which was reafforested in #aheh with oaks1 in the shade of which these fungi are particularly at home4 ,in ,russia1 formerly1 bears were used to unearth them1 but to-day pigs and trained dogs are relied on for locating the ripe specimens--a feat which man1 with his inferior powers of smell1 cannot imitate2 the result being that when he tries to harvest them himself1 great waste results through the uncovering of unripe specimens4 ,maybe1 some day1 our noses will be so well trained that truffle-hunters will be able to get along without pigs1 dogs1 bears--or flies1 which1 in warm weather1 hover over the spots where the ripe fungi are hidden from the eye4 ,truffles are expensive1 and therefore often adulterated--with dirt1 to increase their weight1 with unripe tubercles that have little or no flavor1 and in various other ways1 including the making of artificial truffles from potatoes4 ,an ,english writer says that the false truffle 7,scleroderma vulgare7 is extremely common on the surface of the ground in woods1 and is gathered by ,italians and ,frenchmen in ,epping ,forest for the inferior dining-rooms of ,london1 where continental dishes are served4 ,it is a worthless1 offensive1 and possibly dangerous fungus4 ,,training ,,trees ,,for ,,fancy ,,fruits4 ,good fruit is more abundant and cheaper in the ,united ,states than anywhere in ,europe4 ,when sun-ripened and picked at the right time1 it is all that fruit should be4 ,unfortunately1 it is not usually brought into our markets in that condition4 ,the ,paris restaurants have a way of adorning their entrance with a stand covered with various kinds of properly ripened fruit1 the fragrance of which serves as an appetizer preceding the hors d'uvre or the soup4 ,they are extra choice fruits1 and expensive1 but in the markets one can buy the same very much more reasonably4 ,in the raising of fruit the ,french rely less on climate than on their own skill and care4 ,the best peaches eaten in ,paris do not come from the ,sunny ,south1 but from the neighborhood of the city1 where they are grown against walls1 and carefully cultivated and protected4 ,when visiting ,france at the request of the ,london ,times to study the methods which have made fruit in that country so good1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,robinson found it a common thing to see a professor of fruit-culture and his class assembled round a tree1 pruning it and discussing every operation as it goes on4 ,the pupils have much to learn1 for the ,french do not simply cultivate trees in orchards as we do1 but subject them to much trimming and bending of the branches so as to secure the best distribution of the sap and the greatest amount of sunlight and warmth4 ,the ,japanese have taught us how to prune a chrysanthemum plant so as to make it produce giant blossoms4 ,our florists make use of the same method to concentrate the sap and vigor of a root and stem in a single perfect ,american ,beauty rose4 ,it is not size alone that is aimed at4 ,sometimes the result of such a method is a thing like the ,belle ,angevine pear which1 though flavorless1 may fetch a guinea in ,london because of its size and beauty4 ,as a rule1 however1 ,flavor is carefully safe-guarded4 ,the leaves are kept trimmed so as to enable the sun to do its best in developing an aroma4 ,outside of ,france the finest collection of espalier fruit trees ,i have seen is on ,paderewski's estate1 at ,morges1 on the ,swiss side of ,lake ,geneva4 ,it is surprising what a variety of forms the trees can be made to assume1 as the fancy of the cultivator decides4 ,,bread ,,crust ,,versus ,,crumb4 ,although the publishers of this book1 when they asked me to write it1 generously allowed me as much elbow room as ,i might desire1 ,i must resist the temptation to dwell much longer on the details of ,french gastronomic leadership4 ,to exhaust the subject would require a whole volume much bigger than this4 ,before closing this long chapter1 however1 ,i must dwell briefly on three more important kinds of food--bread1 butter1 and cheese--in the making of which the ,french excel4 ,unlike ourselves and our ,english cousins1 they partake of nothing but bread and butter for breakfast1 wherefore it is not surprising that they take particular pains to have these good4 ,bread is also eaten at other meals much more freely than in other countries1 including ,germany and ,austria1 which alone rival ,france in the making of it4 ,the best ,french bread is made in such a way that to have it in prime condition it must always be fresh4 ,at all hours1 therefore1 one sees boys hurrying along the streets with baskets loaded with tall loaves4 ,without exaggeration1 these loaves are often a yard long1 but no thicker than a man's forearm4 ,this is the ,parisian bread par excellence1 and what is most characteristic about it is that it is practically all crust4 ,bread is regarded as the staff of life--an ,english writer1 ,winslow1 called it so as long ago as #afbd--;and it has become so more and more in recent centuries4 ,it is therefore of the utmost interest to know how the ,french1 who admittedly know more about good food and the best cooking than any other people in the world1 bake their bread4 ,they bake it1 as ,i have just said1 in such a way that it is nearly all crust4 ,nearly all crust6 ,and the ,french1 it is needless to say1 dote on this crust4 ,for the crumb they have no liking2 often you may see a ,frenchman poke out with his thumb what little crumb there is and leave it on his plate4 ,how different this from the practices prevalent among the least gastronomic of civilized nations--the ,english and the ,americans6 ,the ,english way was graphically described in the ,observations on ,mastication which ,dr4 ,campbell contributed to the ,london ,lancet 7,july and ,august1 #aijc73 ,witness the fashion of eating bread-and-butter at any place of refreshment1 and the last thing you will be served with is a plateful of crusts of bread4 ,many establishments1 indeed1 make a regular practice of giving away their crusts as unsaleable4 ,thus1 the rectangular loaves used for bread-and-butter in the arated bread-shops are cut transversely into slices1 each loaf thus yielding two end crusts which are put into baskets for the poor1 only the soft crumby pieces being reserved for the customers4 ,similar practices prevail in the ,united ,states and ,canada4 ,the lowest biological specimen--mere gastronomic protoplasm--is the pale1 ten-dollar-a-week clerk whose deadly substitute for bread is the half-baked dough 7butter cake7 he eats at lunch time--a dyspeptic mess without the suspicion of a crust on it4 ,his taste1 unfortunately1 is shared by some of the well-to-do1 whose education has been neglected4 ,two youths walked into the breakfast room of an ,italian hotel one morning and sat down at the table next to ours4 ,the first thing they did was to push away the nicely browned crusty rolls and ask the waiter if he had any soft bread4 ,he had none1 of course4 ,he should have told them--,i came near doing it myself--that those ,italian rolls1 though not equal to the best ,parisian1 had much more flavor and were much more digestible than the home-made crumb they were crying for--like babes for pap1 though their teeth looked sound4 ,in many ,new ,york hotels and restaurants1 imitations of ,parisian loaves or rolls are now placed on the tables4 ,some of them are quite good--a great improvement on the ordinary ,american bread--yet most of the diners look at them askance4 ,in down-town lunch places1 if you fee the waiter regularly1 he will not insult you by putting a crusty end piece on your plate4 ,i always fee well1 and therefore have the greatest difficulty in making the waiters believe that ,i sincerely1 honestly and truly prefer an end piece--a particularly brown one at that4 ,some of them look at me with the incredulous expression of the farmer who1 on seeing a giraffe1 exclaimed1 ,there ain't no such animal6 ,it is needless to say that ,i prefer the golden-hued end-piece because ,i find it infinitely richer in flavor than the crumb4 ,it is for the same reason1 principally1 that the ,french insist on having crusty bread4 ,there are other reasons--they may not be aware of them but instinctively they act on them4 ,let me give them in the words of a distinguished medical man--the same ,dr4 ,campbell1 ,physician to the ,london ,northwest ,hospital1 whose words ,i have just quoted4 ,loaves1 he writes1 should be shaped so as to give a maximum of crust and a minimum of crumb1 and should be baked hard4 ,such loaves are quite as nutritious as the ordinary ones1 and much more digestible1 containing as they do an abundance of dextrine and not a little maltose1 and compelling efficient mastication1 especially if eaten1 as they should be1 without any fluid4 ,a lady who has been catering for a large number of girls gives the bread in this way1 and she tells me that there is keen competition for the most crusty portions4 ,the words ,i have italicized are of the utmost significance4 ,they show that if ,english--or ,american--girls1 or boys1 or women and men--prefer crumb to crust1 it is not owing to innate depravity but to lack of opportunity to learn better4 ,give them a chance to ascertain the superiority of crust to crumb and they promptly take to it as if they were in ,paris born4 ,they cannot be blamed for neglecting ,american crust1 for the crust of the ordinary ,american bread actually is inferior to the crumb1 being tough1 leathery1 and flavorless4 ,but the ,american crumb is nearly always indigestible4 ,the moral of the story is that we should discard it in favor of ,parisian crusty bread1 boycotting every baker who does not honestly try to surround his loaves with crisp1 toothsome crust4 ,ordinary ,american bread is greatly improved in flavor and digestibility when it is toasted4 ,toasting is the conversion of crumb into crust4 ,it is resorted to daily by hundreds of thousands of ,americans who1 either knowingly or instinctively1 adopt this way of avoiding the soggy bread which ruins the stomach and undermines the health4 ,on this point let me cite the words of another medical expert1 ,dr4 ,alexander ,bryce1 author of ,dietetics1 ,modern ,theories of ,diet1 ,the ,laws of ,life and ,health1 etc41 endorsing the views of ,russia's most eminent physiologist3 ,pavlov demonstrated that the chewing of fresh1 moist bread such as most ,americans insist on having produced no secretion of saliva worth mentioning1 but dry bread caused the saliva to flow in large quantities4 ,stale bread1 crust of bread1 toast1 zwieback 7double-toasted bread71 and plenty of biscuit compel fairly prolonged mastication with plenty of saliva1 while soft bread is usually bolted with no production of digestive juice of any consequence4 ,besides the yard-long loaves referred to1 the ,french have an endless variety of breads1 one of the best of them being the crescent-shaped croissants usually served with the morning coffee4 ,different provinces and towns have their own special kinds1 but ,paris is the paradise for bread-eaters2 elsewhere1 the bread is not so uniformly excellent1 though nearly always better than that served in most other countries4 ,while the preponderance of crust over crumb is the most important aspect of ,parisian bread1 there are a number of other things to which it owes its excellence4 ,for a high-class product it is important to select flour made of wheat which has a particularly fine flavor4 ,the ,flavor is also largely affected by the milling1 the way the dough is made and kneaded1 the quick or slow fermentation1 the kind of oven used and its temperature1 the length of leaving the bread exposed to the heat1 and many other things4 ,a ,french baker's apprentice has to go through a four-years' course of studies before he is considered an expert4 ,is it a wonder that such favorable results are achieved8 ,but besides his knowledge he must have an infinite capacity for taking pains4 ,plus on se donnera de peine pour ptrir la pte1 plus on obtiendra de pain1 et meilleur il sera4 ,on n'a rien de bon sans travail4 ,the more trouble you take in kneading the dough1 the more bread you will get1 and the better it will be4 ,you cannot get anything good without work4 ,so say the authors--there are three of them--of the ,nouveau ,manuel ,complet du ,boulanger1 published in ,paris by ,l4 ,mulo4 ,it is a book of #fbf pages with #ic illustrations4 ,besides an introduction which gives a bird's-eye view of the history of baking1 there are ten chapters treating exhaustively of wheats and flours and their adulteration2 on the making of dough and the different kinds of leaven2 on troughs and ovens2 on diseases of bread2 on the peculiarities of the breads of various countries1 including1 of course1 those of ,france1 ,austria and ,germany as the most important4 ,summing up their conclusions1 the authors of this encyclopedic work say1 under the subhead1 ,signes ,caractristiques d'un ,pain ,bien ,fabriqu1 ,well-made bread must be light1 well-raised and well-puffed up4 ,its color must be a particular yellow1 shading into brown2 it must be resonant when it is struck2 its surface must be smooth1 the inside full of cavities and grandes crevasses2 its crumb white1 very spongy and very elastic4 ,,how ,,the ,,best ,,butter ,,is ,,made4 ,if ,i were king1 exclaimed a ,sicilian shepherd boy1 ,i would have goosefat with my bread every day4 ,while the ancient ,greeks and ,romans already made many varieties of bread1 butter was known to them only as a medicine1 olive oil being generally used in place of it in the preparing of meals4 ,it was probably in ,italy that really palatable butter was first churned1 and very good butter is made in that country to-day2 7that poor ,sicilian boy had evidently never tasted any1 else he would have preferred it even to goosefat67 but the best butter in the world is marketed in ,paris4 ,not once1 during half-a-dozen sojourns in that city1 have ,i had butter served which it was not a pleasure to eat4 ,while bad butter1 such as most ,americans eat daily1 seems to be virtually tabooed in ,france1 there are of course many degrees of excellence4 ,in ,may1 #aiab1 we visited a number of the leading ,paris restaurants with the special object of studying these degrees4 ,everywhere the butter was very good1 but the best1 my wife and ,i agreed after repeated trials1 was served at the ,buf la ,mode4 ,i therefore asked the head-waiter to find out from the dairy just how it was made4 ,he did so1 and received in reply a letter which is herewith reprinted in a translation3 ,in response to your communication of the twentieth ,i take pleasure in answering your questions4 ,our butter is always made with the cream of the previous day and after this cream has fermented twelve hours4 ,in this way to-day's milk is skimmed at about noon and the cream is cooled to #cg-dj degrees ,fahrenheit1 then it is put in a place where it rises to #db-dg ,fahrenheit and at this temperature it is kept as nearly as possible till the next morning1 when it is churned4 ,this method is a satisfactory one1 and our butter is right4 ,believing that these directions will prove to be what your customer wishes ,i beg you to receive my best salutations4 ,,marchand4 ,the information given in this letter relates to one point only1 as that was the only point ,i had inquired about4 ,what ,i wanted to know was whether this super-excellent butter was made of sweet cream or of sour cream4 ,edwin ,h4 ,webster1 ,chief of the ,dairy ,division1 states in ,no4 #bda of the ,farmers' ,bulletins1 issued by the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture1 that practically speaking1 all butter used in this country is churned from sour cream4 ,sweet cream butter to most users tastes flat and insipid4 ,he adds that the ,american dairyman1 when his cream is not sour1 deliberately makes it so by adding a starter1 which is nothing more nor less than nicely soured milk4 ,in the ,paris bookstalls we bought everything we could find as to the ,french practices in this respect1 and furthermore we spent hours in the ,bibliothque ,nationale studying the documents relating to it4 ,d4 ,allard1 ,professeur ,dpartmental d',agriculture1 says in his book ,le ,beurre3 ,it is generally remarked that in the regions which produce the finest and best-liked butter1 la ,normandie and la ,bretagne1 great care is taken to let the cream turn sour before it is churned4 ,there is here certainly a result of fermentation1 for one can1 as we have said1 impart these qualities to sweet cream by adding select ferments4 ,besides this1 fermentation gives another advantage3 it makes the cream easier to churn and increases the yield of butter4 ,one must not go too far1 however4 ,the farmers know very well that the cream of a whole week gives a butter of unpleasant flavor4 ,it is therefore the uniformity of fermentation that ensures uniformity in the production of butter2 which explains the importance of this question4 ,another writer1 ,v4 ,houdet1 ,ingnieur-,agronome1 ,directeur de l',ecole ,nationale des ,industries ,laitires de ,mamirolle1 says in his book ,laiterie1 ,beuerrerie1 ,fromagerie 7fourth edition1 #aiab73 ,no matter whether the cream has been obtained by letting the milk stand in a low temperature or by means of a separator1 it does not1 if churned at once1 yield anything but a sweet butter1 of pure taste but without bouquet and without finesse4 ,in order that the butter may have the aroma1 and particularly the nutty flavor which the consumers desire and which considerably increases its market value1 it is necessary that the cream should ferment1 should become soured1 before it is churned1 for it is particularly on this treatment1 this maturation 7ripening71 that all the qualities of the product depend4 ,while the cream is fermenting1 the sugar of milk it contains is changed into lactic acid which reacts in the measure of its production on the glycerides1 saponifies them while liberating the volatile acids which impart to the butter its perfume and make it keep better4 ,at the same time1 as with all fermentation1 it is necessary to stop in time2 an excessive development of acid would yield a strong butter1 rapidly undergoing a change and becoming rancid4 ,director ,houdet also points out1 as did ,professor ,allard1 that by souring the cream the yield of butter is very appreciably increased4 ,judging by these remarks1 the ,french way is like the ,american3 the cream is ripened 7soured7 before churning4 ,must we1 therefore1 conclude that the enormous difference 7apart from the salt question7 between the average ,american and the average ,french butter is due chiefly to ,american carelessness in regard to a number of details1 particularly the degree of acidity and the regulation of the temperature which the ,french authors just quoted declare to be of the utmost importance in the manipulation of the cream while ripening8 ,or is our butter usually so inferior because so much of it is marketed after undergoing cold storage1 whereas the ,french get theirs fresh1 as they do their poultry8 ,years ago the ,state ,railway began to run special butter trains from ,normandy1 ,brittany1 and the ,la ,rochelle district1 which reach the ,paris market early in the morning1 refrigerating cars being used in summer1 so that the butter always arrives in perfect condition4 ,doubtless1 such differences help to explain the inferiority of our butter2 but a question of even greater importance which we must now consider1 is this3 ,is it true that the best butter owes its fine flavor to the ripening of the cream--the churning of sour cream instead of sweet8 ,the fact that dairymen in ,france as well as in ,america do use fermented cream does not necessarily prove this to be the case2 for1 as we have seen1 there are two other very important reasons for ripening the cream3 sour cream is more easily churned1 and it yields more butter than sweet cream does4 ,this being the case1 most dairymen1 being human1 would naturally be tempted to use acid cream even if it were possible to make a still finer butter with absolutely sweet cream4 ,that this is possible1 is the belief of many experts and epicures4 ,a ,german lady in ,berlin1 who has had much experience1 informed me that sweet-cream butter was in that region preferred by those who could indulge their appetites all they liked1 whereas the sour-cream butter was ordered by those who wished to curb the appetites of their customers 7in taverns1 c474 ,an ,english official1 ,francis ,vacher1 remarks in ,the ,food ,inspector's ,handbook1 in which he gives the results of his experiences in sampling1 that it seems superfluous to say that butter of fine flavor cannot be made from sour cream4 ,yet much butter is made from sour cream1 particularly in small farms and dairies4 ,united ,states ,government and ,state officials have given much attention to this subtle question4 ,while ,edwin ,h4 ,webster1 ,chief of ,dairy ,division1 ,bureau of ,animal ,industry1 attests1 as we have seen1 that practically speaking1 all butter used in this country is churned from sour cream1#aa the ,assistant ,chief1 ,harry ,hayward1#ab admits that but a very small percentage of all dairy butter made is of really high grade4 ,bulletins #ah and #ba of the ,iowa ,agricultural ,experimental ,station contain the results of tests made by ,g4 ,e4 ,patrick1 ,f4 ,a4 ,leighton1 ,d4 ,b4 ,bisbee and ,w4 ,h4 ,heilemann1 showing that butter made from sweet cream retains its flavor better than butter made from sour cream4 ,in ,june1 #aiji1 the ,u4 ,s4 ,bureau of ,animal ,industry issued ,bulletin #aad1 in which the bacteriologist1 ,l4 ,a4 ,rogers1 and the chemist1 ,c4 ,e4 ,gray1 give the results of three years' study of this problem4 ,they found that butter made from ripened 7sour7 cream1 both pasteurized and unpasteurized1 develops1 in storage1 fishy and other flavors typical of storage butter2 that butter made from unripened1 unpasteurized cream always developed a cheesy or rancid flavor2 but that the butter made from pasteurized cream without starter usually retained its flavor with little or no change4 ,even at #cb ,f41 where all the ripened butter showed decided changes1 the sweet-cream butter deteriorated very little4 ,everything showed that some factor having a deleterious influence on the butter was developed with the ripening of the cream2 and this whether the acid developed normally in the cream or was added to it1 as a starter4 ,further3 ,butter can be made commercially from sweet pasteurized cream without the addition of a starter4 ,fresh butter made in this way has a flavor too mild to suit the average dealer1 but it changes less in storage than butter made by the ordinary method1 and can be sold after storage as high-grade butter4 ,still another official of the ,department of ,agriculture1 ,l4 ,a4 ,rogers1 bacteriologist of the ,dairy ,division1 contributed an important document in favor of sweet cream butter4#ac ,he pointed out that a large part of the butter made in the central creameries in which the cream is received in a sour or otherwise fermented condition develops the peculiar oily flavor of mackerel or salmon4 ,after a series of investigations lasting several years he testified that in all cases in which the records were complete it was found that those experimental butters which became fishy were made from high-acid cream2 and that fishy flavor may be prevented with certainty by making butter from pasteurized sweet cream4 ,the same authority informs us that in our central creameries the cream is usually received in a very acid condition--surely a most unfortunate circumstance1 inasmuch as the experts1 including the ,french1 are1 as we have seen1 agreed that a high degree of acidity spoils the butter4 ,and now we come face to face with the all-important question3 ,does a low degree of acidity really improve the butter1 as ,professor ,allard and ,director ,houdet maintain it does8 ,in other words1 is the delicious flavor of the best butter actually due to the lactic acid developed by the ripening of the cream8 ,dairy ,chief ,webster admits that there are undoubtedly desirable flavors in cream that do not come from the development of acid4 ,just what these are is not known at the present time1 but the rich creamery flavor1 or1 as it is sometimes described1 the nutty flavor1 of a fine quality of cream is a combination of acid and other flavors4 ,the nutty flavor is found particularly in ,may and ,june butter4 ,the ,german biologists1 ,h4 ,w4 ,conn and ,w4 ,m4 ,esten1 who made careful studies of the ripening of cream which they published in ,nos4 #ba and #bb of the ,centralblatt fr ,bakteriologie 7#aija7 found that the peculiar flavor of ,june butter1 which is so much desired by the butter-maker1 is not due to the development of the common lactic bacteria4 ,this brings us back to ,paris and the ,buf la ,mode4 ,it was in ,may that we found the butter there so very delicious1 and ,may is the month when the grass in ,france is greenest1 juiciest1 richest in flavoring possibilities4 ,after collecting a large amount of material relating to the influence of food in varying the quality and ,flavors of meats 7which will be presented in ,chapter ,,xii71 ,i have come to the conclusion that it is to this rich spring food that the nutty flavor is chiefly due4 ,as long ago as the middle of the last century epicures guessed what made the ,flavor of spring butter so good4 ,in the first volume of his ,gastrophie1 ,eugen ,baron ,vaerst declares that mountain butter is the best4 ,march butter is particularly good because of the grass fodder the cows get4 ,summer butter is less good1 were it only because of the heat and the annoyance to which the animals are subjected by torturing insects4444 ,winter butter tastes of straw and other winter feed4 ,the assertion that mountain butter is the best1 reminds me of an episode in ,bayreuth where1 one summer1 the family that gave us lodging and breakfast had the butter brought down every morning fresh from the mountains by a peasant girl4 ,you pay in ,germany for as much bread and butter as you eat4 ,the first day we ate all that was given us and asked for double the amount next morning1 and once more double that for the third day4 ,it was as good and sweet and tempting as ice cream4 ,the incident is worth mentioning as a hint to dealers and butter-makers how they might quadruple their business by supplying people with fresh butter1 unsalted and made of sweet cream1 as was that ,bayreuth mountain butter4 ,in future discussions of this subject it will be necessary to make it clear just what is meant by sweet cream and sour cream4 ,if1 as the two ,german bacteriologists referred to say1 there are some acid bacteria present in milk as it is drawn from the cow1 then there is no such thing as absolutely sweet cream2 and1 chemically speaking1 the cream we put in our coffee twelve or twenty-four hours later is still less so4 ,but physiologically speaking1 that is to our tongue1 such cream still is sweet and remains sweet under ordinary atmospheric conditions for several days2 that is1 it does not taste sour and does not clot in the coffee cup4 ,from the physiological point of view1 therefore1 the cream from which the best butter we found in ,paris was made was sweet--absolutely sweet to the tongue1 whatever the acidimeter may have indicated4 ,from the foregoing remarks any dairyman who wishes to get rich quick can gather what he must do4 ,another point must be borne in mind in making butter which is not to be eaten at once4 ,bulletin #ga of the ,iowa ,experiment ,station calls attention to the fact that to preserve the quality 7,flavor7 of the butter1 it is not enough to pasteurize the cream2 the water also must have its germs killed by being heated to a certain degree and then cooled again4 ,the experiments made showed that butter made from pasteurized cream and washed in pasteurized water kept normal just twice as long as butter made from unpasteurized cream and washed with unpasteurized water1 even though well-water was used4 ,,cheese ,,as ,,an ,,appetizer4 ,while there is but one way to make perfect butter there are many ways to make perfect cheese4 ,butter is always butter1 varying only in the degree of palatability1 whereas from a pail of milk can be made hundreds of varieties of cheese1 each perfect in its way4 ,every country has its own1 differing from those of other countries and provinces1 as the costumes and customs differ4 ,the chief difference lies in the ,flavor1 and this is due to a variety of causes1 one of them being the source of the milk4 ,the ,laplander makes several kinds of cheese from reindeer milk1 while in some parts of ,italy buffalo cheese is eaten4 ,goat cheese is diversely made in ,germany1 ,france1 ,italy and other countries1 while for some of the finest cheeses1 including genuine ,roquefort1 sheep supply the milk4 ,by far the most important animal1 however1 is the cow4 ,what would ,europeans and ,americans do without the cow8 ,it is possible to get along without her4 ,when ,i visited ,japan1 less than a quarter of a century ago1 the first experiments in the production of milk1 butter1 and cheese were being made in the ,hokkaido1 with a herd of fifty imported cows4#ad ,the courtesy of the ,governor-,general enabled me to test the products1 and ,i found them very good4 ,but owing to scant and expensive pasturage1 ,japanese epicures will never be able to depend much on cows2 and think what they miss6 ,no veal1 no beef1 no suet1 no cream1 no butter1 no cheese6 ,think of the endless uses we make of these1 alone1 or in thousands of culinary combinations6 ,nevertheless1 we still have much to learn concerning the diverse uses to which at least one of the products of the protean milk pail can be put4 ,we make above #cjj1jjj1jjj pounds of cheese a year1 worth over #cj1jjj1jjj2 but there is less to boast about its quality than its quantity4 ,we are strangely monotonous and unoriginal4 ,about three-fourths of our cheese is an imitation of the ,english ,cheddar1 while the rest consists mostly of imitations--generally very poor ones--of ,swiss1 ,dutch1 ,italian1 or ,german cheeses1 or the ,french ,camembert1 ,roquefort1 and so on4 ,have we no gastronomic imagination8 ,shall we permit not only the epicures but the peasants of ,europe to look down on us for our lack of it8 ,we have1 to be sure1 a few specialties1 such as the ,pineapple1 the ,brick1 ,isigny1 and some special varieties of cream cheese2 but for a nation of nearly a hundred millions1 we make a very poor showing indeed in this branch of gastronomy1 as in so many others4 ,to a patriotic epicure it is humiliating to peruse ,bulletin #aje of the ,bureau of ,animal ,industry1 entitled ,varieties of ,cheese4 ,it contains1 on #gb pages1 descriptions and analyses of all the domestic and foreign cheeses about which information could be found in the literature bearing upon the subject4 ,the authors are ,c4 ,f4 ,doane1 of the ,dairy ,division1 and ,h4 ,w4 ,lawson1 of the ,experiment ,stations4 ,the number of cheeses described by them is #bdb4 ,of these #fc1 or more than a fourth of the whole number1 are ,french4 ,germany follows with #dj1 and ,england comes third with #bd4 ,switzerland is credited with #bj4 ,italy contributes #ai1 ,austria 7with ,bohemia1 ,hungary and the ,tyrol7 #ag1 and ,holland #h4 ,these are the leading cheese producers4 ,france1 as was to be expected of the chief gastronomic nation1 heads the list in the matter of quality as well as quantity4 ,few epicures would deny that the best three cheeses made anywhere are ,camembert1 ,roquefort1 and ,brie4 ,other world-famed kinds are ,pont-l',evque1 ,neufchtel1 ,mont ,d',or1 ,gruyre1 ,port du ,salut4 ,among the less-known kinds are some which are almost if not quite as good as the more familiar varieties4 ,a pound of cheese made of unskimmed milk has twice the nutritive value of a pound of beef4 ,it is characteristic of the gastronomic ,french people that1 notwithstanding this fact1 the best cheeses made by them1 for themselves and the rest of the world1 are valued and intended much less as food than as relishes1 to be consumed in very small quantities4 ,the ,french custom of using cheese as an appetizer1 to be eaten at the end of a meal1 has been adopted the world over4 ,usually one thinks of appetizers 7hors d'uvres7 as being served at or near the beginning of a meal2 but think the matter over and you will see that an appetizer is even more useful at the end1 as a harmless stimulant to keep up a steady flow of saliva4 ,it is not a mere accident that the three favorite ,french cheeses are those that have the most piquant and stimulating ,flavor4 ,this ,flavor is due chiefly to molds1 which are specially cultivated with great skill and patience4 ,in ,camembert and ,brie the mold is on the rind and gradually works its way in1 till the whole is permeated by it4 ,in ,roquefort the rind is clean of mold1 which is started and developed in the inside4 ,besides these molds1 which1 of course1 differ in the several varieties1 there are other sources of ,flavor1 such as the salt added to the curd1 certain fatty acids1 and ammonia-like bodies1 these being particularly noticeable in well-ripened ,camembert2 but what chiefly determines the characteristic ,flavor of these cheeses is their private and particular kinds of mold4 ,perhaps some day the ,french will erect a statue to ,flavor in ,food4 ,to the many illustrations given in these pages of the intelligence they exercise and the trouble they take to secure it1 let me add one more--the making of ,roquefort cheese4 ,we need not dwell on the first stages of the process1 the heating and cooling of the milk1 the adding of the rennet at a certain temperature to curdle it1 and so on1 as these do not differ materially from the ways of making other cheeses4 ,sheep's milk is used for the genuine article1 but ,roquefort made elsewhere of cow's milk is so similar in taste to the original article that no doubt remains as to the all-importance of the mold4 ,this mold is secured by making bread of wheat and barley flour to which have been added whey and a little vinegar4 ,this bread is kept in a moist place for a month or longer till it has become moldy through and through4 ,then the crust is removed and the moldy crumbs are placed between layers of the cheese curd4 ,the romantic part of the story now begins4 ,in the neighborhood of the town of ,roquefort there are many grottoes1 or natural caverns1 steadily ventilated by a cool1 moist current of air4 ,into these the cheese is taken for the ripening process4 ,there is a great deal of salting and scraping to prevent the mold from growing on the rind4 ,to favor its development in the inside1 fresh air is provided by piercing the cheese with machinery having up to a hundred fine needles4 ,thus it gradually acquires its green marbling and the piquancy which makes the epicure's mouth water4 ,roquefort cheese has been famous for over two thousand years4 ,the ancient ,romans were very fond of it1 as ,pliny relates1 and imported it in large quantities4 ,the demand increased from century to century1 until half a million sheep were required to supply the demand and four hundred factories were kept busy4 ,to-day1 enormous quantities of imitation ,roquefort are made in various countries4 ,some of it is quite tasty1 but epicures will continue to ask for the original1 and it is right that the law should protect them and the makers by compelling imitators to put ,roquefort ,type on their labels4 ,to a good many persons the piquancy of ,roquefort does not appeal4 ,few1 however1 fail to succumb to the wiles of ,camembert4 ,its popularity is attested by the fact that ,new ,york hotels alone use #cj1jjj of these cheeses a week during the season4 ,there is a demand at present for about #d1jjj1jjj ,camemberts from the ,united ,states alone1 and sometimes ,caen and ,havre are unable to supply the demand4 ,many attempts to manufacture ,camembert have been made in ,america4 ,the president of one of the largest pure food companies told me he had spent #cj1jjj in the attempt to produce a satisfactory ,camembert2 then he gave it up and began to import it4 ,you can import cheeses but you cannot import or reproduce local flavors4 ,illustration ,,viii ,,epicurean ,,italy ,,the ,,cradle ,,of ,,modern ,,cookery4 ,the fact that ,roquefort cheese was relished by ,roman epicures twenty centuries ago indicates that ,french gastronomy is not entirely a product of modern times4 ,yet it was not till the reign of ,louis ,,xiv 7who died in #afdc7 that ,france began to lead the world in this branch of civilization4 ,the cradle of modern culinary art was ,italy4 ,katharine of ,medici brought its higher branches from that country1 which1 in the sixteenth century1 was supreme in all the fine arts1 the chef's included4 ,italian cookery differed in those days from that of other countries as ,french cookery1 with its entremets1 ragouts1 and salmis1 its diverse light viands and delicacies differed in latter centuries from that of other parts of the world4 ,what gave the ,italian cooks their supremacy was that they were alive to the importance of ,flavor4 ,montaigne expressed admiration of these same cooks who can so curiously temper and season strange odors with the savor and relish of their meats4 ,is it a wonder that the reform was hailed with delight1 ,voltaire going so far as to exclaim3 ,un cuisinier est un tre divin8 ,venice was the gate by which ,oriental luxuries entered ,italy4 ,at the same time there were culinary traditions which came to the ,italians of the ,middle ,ages direct from their own ancestors4 ,sicilian cooks were favored by the ancient ,romans just as ,french chefs are in modern ,europe4 ,among the ,greeks1 also1 the cooks from ,sicily were in great demand1 and ,sicilian cookery was proverbially good4 ,the ,carme of his time was the ,sicilian ,archestratus1 who1 we read1 traveled far and wide in quest of alimentary dainties of different lands1 and who1 some #bbej years ago1 wrote a long poem on gastronomy4 ,three centuries ago ,burton referred to the fondness of the ,italians for frogs and snails1 two delicacies now universally associated with ,gallic epicureanism4 ,the ,french1 to be sure1 have by their special care in the rearing of these creatures 7there are books on the subject7 made them peculiarly their own4 ,though now playing second fiddle to ,france1 the ,italians are still holding their own among the leading gastronomic nations4 ,they have plenty of reasons for liking their own cooking1 nor are they alone in enjoying it4 ,in ,new ,york and other ,american cities ,italian restaurants are always well patronized and not only by ,italians1 and the same is true in ,london1 and to some extent in ,paris4 ,let us briefly pass in review the most desirable foods and dishes of the ,italians to see what we can learn from them4 ,,olive ,,oil ,,and ,,sardines4 ,col4 ,newnham-,davis declares that really good pure olive oil is almost unknown outside the boundaries of ,italy4 ,an ,italian gentleman never eats salad when traveling in foreign countries1 for his palate1 used to the finest oils1 revolts against the liquid fit only for the lubrication of machinery he so often is offered in ,germany1 ,england1 and ,france4 ,this is somewhat misleading4 ,while inferior or adulterated olive oil is certainly served in many otherwise respectable ,european restaurants1 even in ,paris1 ,i have eaten delicious olive oil made in ,france4 ,spanish oil usually has a flavor too strong for most of us1 but when it is carefully refined this is not the case4 ,in ,lyons ,i was once the guest of a family of epicures who preferred ,spanish oil to any other1 and their salads certainly were delicious4 ,but1 on the whole1 the finest olive oil comes from ,italy4 ,the superiority is purely a question of ,flavor1 for all olive and other table oils have the same food value4 ,many factors combine to make ,lucca and other ,italian olive oils so pleasing to the palate4 ,the soil is specially adapted to the cultivation of the olive tree1 and care has been taken to select the best varieties4 ,the old ,roman epicures1 who gathered their delicacies from all parts of the world1 already preferred ,italian olive oil1 especially that of the variety known as the ,licinian and grown in ,campania4 ,no less important than soil and variety is the proper harvesting of the crop4 ,in ,asia1 as well as in ,greece and in many parts of ,spain1 much of the oil produced owes its inferior quality to the fact that the olives are knocked off the trees with poles or shaken off4 ,the ,italians who make the best oil pick the olives by hand and deliver them at the mills without bruises4 ,these same ,italians subject the olives to four successive pressings4 ,the oil from the first1 known as virgin oil1 is the finest1 and as it is also the most expensive1 unscrupulous dealers may and do sell the yield of the following and increasingly inferior pressings under that name4 ,eternal vigilance is everywhere the price of getting pure food and the best of it4 ,there is food for thought in the official information that ,spain exports large amounts of olive oil to ,france and ,italy and that the greater part of this is rexported from those countries1 largely in the form of mixed oil4 ,in #aiaa ,spain exported #ij1dai1gbc pounds of olive oil1 valued at #g1cig1igg4 ,much good has no doubt been done by the ,italian ,society of ,permanent ,chemical ,inspection1 for the analysis of food products and official certification of purity4 ,the honest grower of and dealer in olive oil suffers much from the competition of the cheap oils4 ,in the interest of honesty a law was passed in ,spain in #ahib providing that all cottonseed or rapeseed oil imported into that country must be denatured by the addition of #a per cent4 of wood tar or petroleum and also that all imported olive oil found to contain cottonseed oil or other similar products shall be rendered unfit for consumption in the same manner4 ,the dangerous nature of the competition to which the olive grower is exposed is illustrated by a remark made by commercial agent1 ,julian ,brode1 in the ,consular and ,trade ,reports 7,august #bi1 #aiaj47 ,writing from ,alexandria he says3 ,the natives1 most of whom are ,mohammedans and large oil consumers1 have been educated to substitute cottonseed oil for the olive oil they formerly used1 and the latter is now found only in the houses of the wealthy4 ,the change1 which has taken place in ,egypt1 and which is now taking place to a great extent in ,turkey1 can likewise be made in ,tripoli1 ,tunis1 ,algeria1 ,morocco1 and other ,mohammedan countries if proper efforts are put forth4 ,bearing in mind the remarks in a preceding chapter regarding cottonseed oil the word educated in the above quotation is painfully sarcastic4 ,it is purse versus palate1 cheapness versus ,flavor1 which remains for the wealthy alone to enjoy and get the benefit of4 ,it is in the sardine industry1 however1 that olive oil is fighting its hardest battles4 ,the oil in a box of sardines costs1 if genuine1 more than the fish in it4 ,consequently1 efforts are being made to substitute cheaper oils4 ,from regions where sardines are canned in wholesale quantities come reports of annually decreasing imports of olive oil1 with a corresponding increase in the imports of cheaper oils4 ,were it not for the public's prejudice in favor of ,flavor in oil1 the olive would doubtless be kicked out altogether4 ,i have read in a consular report that cottonseed oil has been selling about fifty per cent4 cheaper than the olive oil used in packing4 ,this saving1 the packers say1 would be given to purchasers of their goods4 ,the dear1 generous1 philanthropic packers6 ,to think that it is not for their own sake but to help the consumers that they are so very anxious to give up olive oil1 and to persuade the ,government not to make them state on the label what kind of oil they use6 ,they point out--disinterestedly1 of course6--that cottonseed oil is claimed to be physically as pure as olive oil1 just as digestible1 and even a better preservative4 ,the question1 therefore1 is simply up to the manufacturers of cottonseed oil to educate the public to these facts and destroy the prejudice against their product4 ,in ,england1 in the summer of #aiab1 a different kind of education was carried on by the importers of a special brand of sardines4 ,in big advertisements the public was informed that a sardine is not necessarily a pilchard but may be the chinchard1 the herring or the small mackerel1 or the brisling which fattens on the small shellfish of the ,norwegian fjords4 ,all of these become sardines only when they are cured4 ,the flavor depends in part on the kind of fish canned1 the food they eat1 the time of the year they are caught and1 in part1 on the way they are cured4 ,for the better grades olive oil is used1 but for the cheaper class trade coarse olive oil is taken1 or cottonseed or peanut oil4 ,of olive oil there are fourteen grades and the best of these is the right kind if you want the best sardines4 ,here were interesting things for ,british sardine buyers to ponder4 ,they were thus warned not to continue to ask the grocer simply for sardines1 but for sardines of a particular kind put up by a reputable firm4 ,if the firm which boasted that it used the best fish and the best of the fourteen grades of olive oil has a wise head it will live up to its claims4 ,in such things honesty is by far the best policy--in the long run4 ,smoked sardines are almost1 if not quite1 as good as those simply packed in olive oil4 ,they are usually marketed as ,kieler ,sprotten and should be better known in this country4 ,,fried ,,fish ,,and ,,fritto ,,misto ,doubtless the word sardine comes from the ,italian island1 ,sardinia1 around which the small fish used for canning abound4 ,small fish of various other kinds are a favorite article of diet all over ,italy4 ,in ,venice1 for instance1 among the most characteristic sights are the numerous little shops in which piles of fried fish are exposed for sale inside the open window1 if window there be4 ,they are eaten with slices of polenta1 or thick corn meal mush1 cut off with a thread from a huge loaf4 ,the gondolier1 as he passes by1 exchanges his penny for some of this food and departs munching it with evidence of perfect satisfaction4 ,the oil used for frying these little fishes is not1 as a matter of course1 the virgin oil of the month of ,may4 ,but it is infinitely better than the cooking-butter sent to the kitchens of thousands of wealthy ,americans4 ,it is more economical1 too1 than our frying baths4 ,when the ,french composer ,massenet1 a noted gourmet1 visited ,italy for the first time1 he enjoyed a meal consisting of an excellent snail soup and fish fried in oil which must have done service in the kitchen at least two or three years4 ,it is acknowledged by epicures of all lands that in the art of frying1 the ,italian cook ranks supreme4 ,in the more expensive eating houses butter 7not cooking butter7 is often used1 but the national way is to fry in oil1 and when the oil is prime the result is delicious4 ,an ,american girl1 who married an ,italian1 writes to me from the ,riviera ,ligure3 ,oil is used for frying1 and it seems to me everything is fried--even green vegetables get a bath of hot oil4 ,when butter is used it is for a condiment4 ,fried food in ,england and ,america is usually greasy and indigestible because the cook does not understand that a deep frying-kettle is best1 that the oil 7or whatever liquid is used7 must at the start have a temperature of nearly #ejj ,fahrenheit1 so that a thin film may form immediately over the outside of whatever is to be fried1 thus keeping in all the juices and flavors2 and that whatever oil may adhere to the food after it is fished out must be allowed at once to drain off on a napkin or otherwise4 ,the ,italian cooks seem to know all these things instinctively1 the result being that their fried foods come up to the test given by ,mary ,ronald1 who remarks in the ,century ,cook ,book that properly fried ,saratogo chips can be eaten out of hand without soiling one's gloves4 ,fritta mista is one of the chefs d'uvre of the ,italian cook4 ,the first time ,i ate one was in ,rome4 ,we went to a little restaurant marked in ,baedeker with a star4 ,after eating the mixed fry containing sweetbreads1 shredded artichoke bottoms1 brains1 cocks-combs1 truffles and other delicacies1 done to a turn1 we decided that the restaurant deserved two stars4 ,it will be noticed that the favorite fritta mista consists largely of things that ,americans have only recently learned to use or still despise4 ,the value of sweetbreads1 which used to be thrown away1 has been discovered--they are now almost worth their weight in radium4 ,brains would be equally relished by nine ,americans out of ten--if not by all--if they would taste them fried as served to me on ,august #bb1 #aiab1 at ,como4 ,i give the date because it was a memorable gastronomic event4 ,the ,italians are like the ,french in relishing these trimmings4 ,mary ,ronald relates an amusing story of a ,french family who moved into one of our ,western towns where calves' heads1 livers1 brains and sweetbreads were still undiscovered luxuries4 ,they wrote home that the price of living there was nominal because the foods which they most prized were given away by the butchers as food for dogs4 ,many years ago ,sir ,henry ,thompson tried to persuade the ,british to substitute olive oil for lard4 ,his advice affords at the same time an amusing glimpse of a certain culinary custom3 ,excellent and fresh olive oil1 which need not be so perfect in tint and flavor as the choicest kinds reserved for the salad bowl1 is the best available form of fat for frying1 and is sold at a moderate price by the gallon for this purpose at the best ,italian warehouses4 ,nothing1 perhaps1 is better than clarified beef dripping1 such as is produced1 often abundantly1 in every ,english kitchen2 but the time-honored traditions of our perquisite system enable any ,english cook to sell this for herself1 at small price1 to a little trader round the corner1 while she buys1 at her employer's cost1 a quantity of pork lard for frying material1 at double the price obtained for the dripping4 ,lard is1 moreover1 the worst menstruum for the purpose1 the most difficult to work in so far as to free the matters fried in it from grease2 and we might be glad to buy back our own dripping from the aforesaid little trader at a profit to him of cent per cent1 if only the purchase could be diplomatically negotiated4 ,,macaroni ,,the ,,real ,,staff ,,of ,,life4 ,next to olive oil the best edible thing ,italy gives to the world is macaroni in its many varieties4 ,we import more than four million dollars' worth of it yearly1 and we have learned1 by raising durum wheat1 to make a fair imitation of the products of a ,gragnano factory2 but most of all this is probably eaten by the ,italians who have come to live with us4 ,in the average ,american household macaroni is far too seldom served4 ,in one of its varieties1 it might advantageously replace potatoes served at one at least of our three daily meals4 ,just why we should have potatoes served at every meal ,i have never been able to understand4 ,most desirable substitutes1 besides macaroni1 are boiled chestnuts1 rice and hominy1 the rice and hominy being particularly good when fried4 ,not that ,i would say a word against potatoes4 ,baked1 fried1 boiled1 steamed1 mashed1 hashed and browned or with cream--in all these and many other ways they are good1 and it would be a calamity to be deprived of them because they not only make an excellent accompaniment to other foods1 especially to meats1 but are also most tasty when served as a separate course1 in the ,french style4 ,but enough is as good as a feast4 ,what we need is variety2 and sometimes1 when we have to economize on meat1 we need something more nutritious than potatoes4 ,potatoes impose much work on the kidneys1 wherefore those afflicted with rheumatism should avoid them4 ,besides1 macaroni has many times the value of potatoes as a flesh former4 ,it owes this value to the large amount of gluten in it1 the potato being useful chiefly as a heat-producer4 ,gluten is a word the meaning of which everybody should know4 ,when wheat flour is kneaded in a current of water most of the starch is removed and there remains a sticky substance which is called gluten4 ,it is the nitrogenous1 or flesh-building1 part of the flour4 ,in ordinary wheat flour there is enough of this gluten to make the dough cohere and to give the bread a food value apart from that coming from the large percentage of starch in it which is a heat-producer4 ,in macaroni wheat there is a smaller percentage of starch and a much larger percentage of gluten4 ,genuine macaroni which is made of the best durum wheat flour has nearly twice the amount of gluten as the highest grade wheat flour4 ,bread is generally called the staff of life1 but in ,italy macaroni is the staff of life1 and it has a much better title to this designation than bread because it contains so much more of the body-building gluten4 ,gluten is to wheat what lean is to meat1 as ,charles ,cristodoro has tersely put it4 ,when you think1 he writes1 of macaroni flour1 it is like going to the butcher and buying a roast and getting less bone1 less gristle1 and less fat1 but about twice as much lean for the money4 ,a butcher who would give his customers twice as much lean meat as another butcher would get all the trade in the neighborhood4 ,in other words1 macaroni is both bread and meat4 ,it is not merely a side-dish1 as many ,american and ,english housewives fancy1 but a complete meal in itself1 although1 owing to the mildness of its ,flavor1 it is generally relished more when cooked with tomatoes1 or a little chopped meat1 or1 better still1 some cheese or butter or both1 because1 like bread1 macaroni is deficient in fat1 some of which it needs to make a dish well balanced as to nutritive ingredients4 ,illustration3 ,macaroni ,drying ,for lunch there is perhaps nothing quite so desirable as a dish of macaroni thus prepared4 ,at present it is difficult to get such a dish properly cooked1 except in our ,italian and ,french restaurants4 ,but ,i believe the time will come when every ,american and ,english business man and woman will have a chance to eat an appetizing and easily digestible lunch in a macaroni cook-shop4 ,this point seems of such great importance that ,i shall emphasize it by citing ,sir ,henry ,thompson's advice4 ,weight for weight1 macaroni may be regarded as not less valuable for flesh-making purposes1 in the animal economy1 than beef and mutton4 ,most people can digest it more easily and rapidly than meat2 it offers1 therefore1 an admirable substitute for meat1 particularly for lunch or midday meals1 among those whose employments demand continuous attention during the whole of a long afternoon4 ,to dine1 or eat a heavy meal in the middle of the day is1 for busy men1 a great mistake3 one nevertheless which is extremely common1 and productive of great discomfort1 to say the least4 ,macaroni might1 this eminent dietician suggests1 be prepared at the restaurants as a staple dish1 in two or three forms1 since it sustains the power without taxing too much the digestion1 or rendering the individual heavy1 sleepy1 and incompetent afterwards4 ,all these remarks refer to macaroni generically--the whole macaroni family1 which is a big one4 ,its best known members are spaghetti1 and vermicelli2 but there are many others equally good and known only to ,italians4 ,among these are fidelini1 stellete1 tagliarini1 lasagnetti1 and many others4 ,altogether1 ,i am told1 there are about fifty varieties of pasta--which is the generic name for all of them4 ,the most delicately and deliciously flavored of them all is tagliatelli1 but it is hard to get4 ,beware of substitutions6 ,subito6 ,subito6 exclaimed the waiter at the ,vapore restaurant in ,venice when1 for the first time1 ,i had ordered this--to me--unknown dish and finally asked him why he did not bring it4 ,he had gone out specially to buy some fresh butter to cook it with1 and when it came on the table--tagliatelli al burro--it was a feast for the gods4 ,if you gave me the choice1 at your expense1 of all the dishes on the elaborate lunch bill of fare of the most expensive ,new ,york restaurant and tagliatelli al burro was one of them1 tagliatelli with butter ,i would order4 ,there is also such a thing as gluten bread1 made for persons of weak digestion or troubled with diabetes2 but it is said that one tires of this4 ,no one ever tires of the macaronis4 ,i could eat a dish of them three times a day and smack my lips after each4 ,to be sure1 there is macaroni and macaroni4 ,an ,italian can tell the genuine by its smoothness1 its clear yellow color1 its hornlike toughness and general glutinous aspect4 ,the genuine is not necessarily imported2 a good brand is1 as ,i have said1 made in ,america of real durum wheat2 but in this1 as in all other things1 eternal vigilance is called for2 the world is full of gay deceivers4 ,macaroni made of ordinary wheat flour is poor stuff1 but fortunately it is easily distinguished from the real thing4 ,being deficient in sticky gluten1 it is not able1 when it is subjected to the drying process1 to bear its own weight and is therefore laid out flat instead of being poled--that is1 thrown over reed poles on which it is exposed first to sunlight and then to damp cellars and shaded storehouses4 ,therefore1 to get the real ,italian ,flavor1 look for the flattened pole marks at the bend in the end of the macaroni4 ,while macaroni is the national dish of ,italy1 it is as great a mistake to suppose that all ,italians eat it three times a day1 as it is to think that rice is the daily diet of all ,japanese4 ,rice1 in ,japan1 is a luxury to be served in the poorer families only on holidays1 or in case of illness4 ,professor ,chamberlain relates in his ,things ,japanese that he once heard a beldame in a village remark to another with a grave shake of the head1 ,what6 ,do you mean to say that it has come to having to give her rice8 the inference being that the case must be alarming indeed if the family had thought it necessary to resort to so expensive a dainty4 ,in the same way it has been said about ,italians that it is as accurate to assert they live on macaroni1 as to assert that ,americans live on turkey4 ,some do1 many don't4 ,when ,i arrived in ,japan1 some of the geishas were convulsed with laughter over my clumsy efforts to eat with chopsticks4 ,i found it a good deal like fishing--never knew when ,i'd get the next bite4 ,macaroni eating is less difficult to the inexperienced1 yet many ,americans seem to be in doubt as to how it should be done4 7,maybe that is one reason why it is not served as often as it should be47 ,the approved ,italian way is to gently spear a stick of it with the fork1 convey the end to the mouth1 and suck it in without much waste of time4 ,an ,american observer was so impressed by this process that he came to the conclusion that the ,italians have reels in their throats4 ,another way is to wind the paste round your fork till there is a wad that just fits your mouth4 ,but there is no loss of ,flavor if the macaroni is cut into convenient pieces and eaten ad libitum any way you please4 ,the most astonishing sight ,i witnessed during my seven visits to ,italy was at ,naples4 ,we had hired a cab in front of the hotel and told the driver we wanted to see the people enjoying their open air life4 ,he took us to a street where everything1 including cooking and eating1 was done outside the houses4 ,presently he stopped at a place where macaroni was being cooked in a huge kettle4 ,a beggar ran up and offered to eat some right out of the boiling water if we would pay for it4 ,the cook ladled a huge portion into a tin basin and the man swallowed it all in a few seconds1 steaming hot4 ,his stomach must have been lined with asbestos4 ,the driver had in the meantime1 also at my expense1 taken a large glass of wine2 but instead of being in league with the cook1 as ,i supposed he would be1 he told me to give him a lira--quite enough1 and drove off rapidly before the macaroni man could vociferate his demands for more4 ,mabel ,phipps ,bergolio1 the ,american lady whose remarks on frying were quoted on another page1 hardly thinks it true that the ,italians are too poor to eat macaroni4 ,my husband thinks it depends upon the part of ,italy they live in4 ,here1 the contadine eat minestrone--a thick soup made of oil1 garlic1 and all kinds of vegetables which they cultivate here4 ,in ,piedmont rice is the principal food1 because it is grown there in large quantities4 ,in the mountains near here1 our maid tells me1 they eat minestrone and chestnuts all the year round and nothing else4 ,in the ,south1 ,naples1 etc41 macaroni is eaten and is cheaper there than in this part of the country on account of the flour which is raised there4 ,garlic and oil are used in preparing it1 and this1 with fruit1 seems to be the food of the meridionale4 ,in the ,north potatoes and polenta are eaten in large quantities in regions where the soil is adapted to raising tubers and corn4 ,,cooked ,,cheese ,,in ,,place ,,of ,,meat4 ,it would be sufficient honor for one nation to provide the world with the best olive oil and the real staff of life4 ,but ,italy lays claim to another gastronomic distinction4 ,it is generally conceded that the ,americans and also the ,english1 ,french1 ,germans1 ,russians and ,scandinavians1 eat more than is necessary1 especially meat4 ,in a previous chapter attention was called to the fact that1 in the cooking of the future1 meat is destined1 for diverse reasons1 to be used largely1 if not chiefly1 as a condiment to be added to equally nutritious but cheaper foods4 ,the ,italians1 more than any other nation1 have shown how this can be done without any real deprivation4 ,when our greatest man of letters1 ,mr4 ,howells1 was consul in ,venice and gathering the material for his delightful book on life in that city1 he was impressed particularly by the surprisingly small scale on which provisions for the daily meals were bought and the general absence of gluttonous excesses3 ,as to the poorer classes1 one observes without great surprise how slenderly they fare1 and how with a great habit of talking of meat and drink1 the verb mangiare remains in fact for the most part inactive with them4 ,but it is only just to say that this virtue of abstinence seems to be not wholly the result of necessity1 for it prevails with other classes which could well afford the opposite vice4 ,meat and drink do not form the substance of conviviality with ,venetians1 as with the ,germans and the ,english1 and in degree with ourselves2 and ,i have often noticed on the ,mondays at the ,gardens1 and other social festivals of the people1 how the crowd amused itself with anything--music1 dancing1 walking1 talking--anything but the great northern pastime of gluttony4 ,after describing the meals and referring to the great market at the ,rialto and the way provisions are distributed throughout the city1 he says3 ,a great ,bostonian1 whom ,i remember to have heard speculate on the superiority of a state of civilization in which you could buy two cents' worth of beef1 to that in which so small a quantity was unpurchasable1 would find the system perfected here1 where you can buy half a cent's worth4 ,half a cent's worth of meat will not go very far1 even in ,italy1 but for a few cents' worth you can get enough to impart the ,flavor of veal1 lamb1 or chicken to a pot of farinaceous food or a dish of vegetables1 and that is all a true epicure needs to be happy4 ,throughout ,italy1 especially in the ,south1 meat is used sparingly4 ,large joints are seldom cooked1 because of the effect of the warm climate in spoiling animal food rapidly4 ,but there is another food which does not thus deteriorate and which is therefore used largely as a substitute for meat1 and that is cheese4 ,to speak of cheese as a substitute for meat seems odd to those who--like most ,americans--have been brought up to look on cheese with ,french eyes1 as a dessert4 ,the ,italians also have cheeses--notably ,gorgonzola1 a variety of ,roquefort--which are eaten at the end of a meal2 but more characteristically ,italian is the use of cheese as an ingredient of various cooked dishes1 which take the place of meat4 ,while the statement made by one writer that the ,italians put cheese into everything they eat is an exaggeration1 it is true that many of their dishes are thus enriched2 and it is this enriching of foods with cheese1 to make up for the absence or scarcity of meat1 that constitutes one of the great lessons ,italy is teaching the world4 ,gastronomically1 this lesson is as valuable as what ,france has taught the world regarding the dessert usefulness of ripened cheese as an appetizer2 and from an economic point of view it is much more important1 because meat is becoming dearer every year1 whereas cheese is not only cheaper but more nutritious than meat4 ,more nutritious--yes1 twice as nutritious4 ,in ,farmers' ,bulletin #dhg1 entitled ,cheese and its ,economical ,uses1 two of our ,government's nutrition experts published a table 7p4 #ac7 based on a series of experiments which show that cheese has nearly twice as much protein1 weight for weight1 as beef of average composition as purchased1 and that its fuel value is more than twice as great4 ,it contains over twenty-five per cent4 more protein than the same weight of porterhouse steak as purchased1 and nearly twice as much fat4 ,thus does science justify the culinary practices of ,italy1 and explain how it happens that the sturdy sons of that land1 instead of being1 as many foolishly suppose1 idlers1 habitually indulging in dolce far niente1 can and do accomplish the hardest manual labor1 notably railway building--abroad as well as at home--on a diet which contains little or no meat4 ,among the first things that strike one on visiting ,italy the first time is the universal custom of putting grated cheese in the soup4 ,being hot1 the soup dissolves the cheese at once2 and this is a point of great importance4 ,there is an impression the world over that cheese is indigestible1 and this is correct so far as raw cheese is concerned1 unless it is taken in small quantities at dessert and carefully munched with a hard cracker or a crusty roll of bread4 ,cooked cheese1 however1 is easily digested--provided the cook knows her business and does not follow the ,british custom1 graphically described by the eminent chemist1 ,w4 ,mattieu ,williams1 of making1 for instance1 macaroni-cheese1 which is commonly prepared in ,england by depositing macaroni in a pie-dish1 and then covering it with a stratum of grated cheese1 and placing this in an oven or before a fire until the cheese is desiccated1 browned1 and converted into a horny1 caseous form of carbon that would induce chronic dyspepsia in the stomach of a wild-boar if he fed upon it for a week4 ,how it should be prepared1 it is not the mission of this volume to indicate4 ,the best cook books reveal the method and so does the ,farmers' ,bulletin 7,no4 #dhg7 just referred to4 ,this bulletin should be1 indeed1 bound and placed in the kitchen of every ,american and ,english home1 as it goes into the subject in much more detail than any of the cook books4 ,there are in it pages on ,kinds of ,cheese ,used in ,american ,homes1 ,the ,care of ,cheese in the ,home1 ,the ,flavor of ,cheese1 ,nutritive ,value and ,cost of ,cheese and ,some ,other ,food ,materials1 ,home-made ,cheeses1 ,cheese ,dishes and ,their ,preparation1 ,cheese ,soups and ,vegetables ,cooked with ,cheese1 ,cheese ,salads and ,sandwiches1 ,cheese ,pastry1 etc4 ,especially important are the pages devoted to a description of ,cheese dishes which may be used in the same way as meat4 ,under this head we find1 among many other things1 and with the recipes in full1 references to cheese sauces1 corn and cheese souffl1 macaroni and cheese1 baked rice and cheese1 cheese rolls1 nut and cheese roast1 ,boston roast1 baked eggs with cheese1 cheese omelet1 fried bread with cheese1 cheese with mush1 cheese croquettes1 oatmeal with cheese1 etc4 ,doubtless the best cooking cheese is ,parmesan2 but when the genuine article cannot be obtained in bulk 7never buy it grated1 in a bottle7 it is better to use ,swiss or even ,american cheese 7cheddar74 ,the ,dutch ,edam is also excellent for the kitchen1 as good as when eaten raw4 ,of the ,italian uncooked cheeses for the table1 the best are ,gorgonzola and1 particularly1 ,caciocavallo4 ,this is not1 as its name suggests1 made of mare's milk4 ,it looks like a rag doll1 is similar to ,edam in consistency and has a very pleasant and unique ,flavor owing to its being slightly smoked4 ,beware of ,american imitations1 cured with liquid smoke4 ,in times of meat scarcity and high prices it is well to remember that hard-working men can 7as experiments have shown7 fully sustain their strength for months on the cheapest of all products of the dairy--cottage cheese made of skim milk1 to which1 just before eating it1 some cream is added for fat and flavor4 ,strange to say1 in all the literature on this matter ,i have never seen any reference to the transformations to which cottage cheese can be subjected4 ,by standing a few days1 it gets a ripening flavor that appeals to epicures1 and if it is then boiled it assumes a consistency like that of ,port ,salut1 making another pleasant variant4 ,a helpful little volume for those who wish to know how the ,italians use cheese in cooking and how they make a number of other national dishes is ,antonia ,isola's ,simple ,italian ,cookery4 ,here are receipts showing how risotto1 and other rice dishes1 ravioli1 polenta1 gnocchi of farina or potato1 are made 7all of them delicious and desirable in ,american and ,english homes1 particularly the gnocchi71 and how eggs1 fishes1 vegetables1 and meats can be cooked in tempting ,italian ways4 ,the chestnut1 as a matter of course1 is a frequent ingredient in the dressings and the pastry4 ,,birds1 ,,tomato ,,paste ,,and ,,garlic4 ,while the ,italians are sparing in their use of meat1 it must not be supposed that they do not know how to make the most of it when they do indulge in it4 ,they are born cooks--it's a great pity none of them are ever to be found in our intelligence offices--and their experts know as well as the great ,french chefs how to prepare a savory roast1 stew1 broil1 entre1 or dessert4 ,in the making of sauces1 the blending of meat and vegetable flavors1 the cooking of fish and shellfish1 one also finds much variety and local ,flavor on the peninsula4 ,details as to those points may be found in abundance in the forty pages ,col4 ,newham-,davis devotes to this country in his ,gourmet's ,guide to ,europe4 ,to enjoy the national and particularly the local varieties of ,flavor1 it is well to take only a room in an ,italian hotel and eat in the restaurants4 ,i always do this1 paying a little more for the room1 which is only fair to the host4 ,the trouble with these hotels is that the table d'hte1 though usually good1 is not ,italian but ,french1 and in ,italy you want something different1 to get an idea of the variations in flavor of the spaghettis1 the minestrone soups1 the gnocchis1 the risottos1 and so on4 ,sometimes the hotel has attached to it a locally conducted restaurant1 in which case it is needless to hunt for another4 ,for one of their gastronomic habits the ,italians are justly denounced by other ,europeans--their slaughter of millions of birds1 largely blackbirds1 siskins1 green-finches1 and other song birds1 that yearly seek a refuge among them on their flight to or from the north4 ,all efforts to curb this slaughter have so far proved unavailing4 ,the difficulty is double3 the birds are very good to eat and the common people cannot understand our point of view4 ,lina ,duff ,gordon1 in her book1 ,home ,life in ,italy 7which takes the reader right into the kitchens and the market places71 tells about one of the hunters3 ,once1 when he offered us a bunch of blackbirds strung together by the neck1 which he said made an excellent roast1 we seized upon the opportunity to deliver a lecture on the shooting of singing birds4 ,he listened so attentively that we rejoiced at having made an impression on an important convert1 until looking up with eyes very wide open1 he exclaimed3 ',ah6 ,sangue della ,madonna6 ,then you have no sport in ,england6' ,it is hardly fair to chide the ,italians for making too much use of garlic1 unless we include in our censure the ,french--particularly those of the ,southern provinces--and the ,spaniards1 who not only put it in their food but eat it raw in chunks4 ,on this point ,i may be permitted to cite from my ,spain and ,morocco some remarks on a peasant who drove me from ,baza to ,lorca3 ,at noon he took his lunch1 composed of ten raw tomatoes1 half a loaf of bread1 a piece of raw ham1 and a large bulb of garlic consisting of a score of bulblets1 which he took one at a time to flavor his portions4 ,it is doubtful if he expected another meal that day1 and in watching him a brilliant theory came to my mind3--perhaps the poorer classes in ,spain are so fond of garlic for the reason that they have so little to eat2 for1 as it takes several days to digest a bulb of it1 they always feel as if they had something in their stomachs4 ,in the best ,italian restaurants1 as in those of ,paris1 it is understood that garlic1 while delicious for flavoring1 is so only in homopathic doses4 ,moreover one can always dine without garlic by simply saying to the waiter1 when ordering a dish1 senz' aglio4 ,whether ,italian peasants eat raw ham1 as that ,spanish teamster did1 ,i do not know4 ,ham is not an ,italian specialty4 ,at ,naples one may get the genuine smoked article1 but it is so expensive that only the wealthy folk can afford it4 ,but in his enthusiastic addiction to tomatoes that ,spaniard was akin to the ,italians4 ,how they do love them--raw or cooked--more even than we do1 if that be possible4 ,next to cheese1 nothing is so frequently added to the macaronis as tomato sauce1 either as we make it1 or in the form of the paste which is one of the unique ,italian products that ought to be better known in other countries4 ,the best tomato paste comes from the ,province of ,naples1 where it is made of a small variety of the fruit which has a special ,flavor that is much relished4 ,this1 to be sure1 they do not waste on foreigners4 ,what is exported is1 as we read in the ,daily ,consular and ,trade ,reports 7,dec41 #aiaj71 usually not even second rate1 but of the third quality1 which is of course1 very inferior1 because it contains little tomato extract and is almost entirely liquid4 ,there is no demand for it in the ,italian market1 and it is prepared exclusively for exportation to ,america1 where it meets the requirements of the immigrant peasants from ,sicily4 ,the latter1 when at home1 either do not use any tomato paste or consume a certain kind of hard tomato paste 7conserva di pomidoro7 which is made by the peasant women4 ,consul ,hernando de ,soto further informs us that tomato paste of the first and second quality also is exported1 though in much smaller quantity1 from ,palermo to the ,united ,states1 where it is patronized by a more prosperous class of ,italians and also1 it is stated1 by some ,americans4 ,many more ,americans would buy tomato paste were they sure of not getting the third-class article after paying for the best1 as happens with so many things we eat4 ,illustration ,,ix ,,german ,,and ,,austrian ,,delicacies ,a ,,cosmopolitan ,,cuisine4 ,in the matter of cuisine the ,germans are the most cosmopolitan of all peoples2 they learn eagerly from other nations1 and sometimes improve on the original4 ,they like variety2 when traveling1 unlike the ,english and ,americans1 they prefer things new to them1 and it has been justly said that one of the ,germans' chief objects in touring is to enjoy exotic pleasures of the table4 ,at home they avoid monotony by frequently supping in restaurants or beer gardens1 the whole family being taken there1 including the dog1 unless a great crowd is expected because of a special musical treat1 in which case the public is informed that ,hunde drfen nicht mitgebracht werden4 ,and how enthusiastically these burghers discuss the diverse good things placed before them6 ,a ,berlin author maintains that three-fourths of all ,germans1 and four-fifths of their cousins1 the ,austrians1 talk more about eating than about anything else1 and that the most successful novels in their countries are those in which there are descriptions of banquets that make the mouth water4 ,no need of preaching gastronomy to them6 ,to deny that the ,germans have a cuisine of their own1 as some of their own writers have done1 is folly4 ,while they have set a good example in being willing to learn from their neighbors--as the ,italians learned from the ,orientals and the ,french from the ,italians--they have also originated and improved a number of things gastronomic which deserve to be transplanted to other countries4 ,a contributor to the ,frankfurter ,zeitung points out that more than one dish which in ,germany1 ,france1 and ,england is relished under a ,french name was originated by ,german cooks4 ,he exhorts these cooks to give the dishes they create ,german names1 choosing such as a foreigner can pronounce4 ,england has succeeded in adding some of its food names--like beefsteak1 ,irish stew1 mock-turtle soup1 pudding1 roast beef1 toast--to the world-language1 and the ,french have shown by their adoption of ,lied1 ,concertmeister1 ,hinterland1 ,bock1 etc41 that they would not balk at ,german culinary terms4 ,,delicatessen ,,stores4 ,as a matter of fact some ,german terms have already become part of the world-language--among them sauerkraut1 pumpernickel and the names of various sausages and cheeses4 ,the most eloquent testimony to ,german international influence is1 however1 the ubiquitous delicatessen store4 ,in ,new ,york there is one every few blocks1 and these places are patronized by many who are not ,germans4 ,to be sure1 few of these shops equal the originals in ,munich1 ,dresden1 or ,berlin1 in variety and gorgeousness of display4 ,edward ,grieg1 like most of the great composers1 was an epicure4 ,it is related of him that one of his favorite amusements was to gaze at the displays of good things in the delicatessen stores4 ,one day1 while lingering before one of these windows he said to the ,american composer1 ,frank ,van der ,stucken3 ,what an ideal symphony6 ,how perfect in all its details1 in form1 contents1 and instrumentation6 ,grand gastronomic symphonies they are1 indeed2 and what is more1 the appeal of these delicacies is to the palate as well as to the eyes4 ,when a ,german pays his good money he wants something good to eat1 and if he is fooled1 woe to the culprit4 ,strict are the laws1 and enforced they are1 too4 ,officers of the health boards visit the stores at unexpected times1 taking away samples for chemical analysis4 ,fines are inflicted for the least lack of obedience to the pure food law1 while gross offenders may be punished by life-long imprisonment with hard labor4 ,the examiners1 of course1 visit not only the delicatessen stores but the butcher shops1 groceries1 bakeries and all places where food is offered for sale4 ,in ,berlin there is a special institute for the inspection of foodstuffs which is directly under the control of the police4 ,it makes chemical and bacteriological examinations of things offered for sale4 ,purchasers who suffer from the ill effects of foodstuffs have the privilege of applying to the police1 who promptly make an examination of the suspected article4 ,this does not cost the complainant a penny and the expense to the city of this invaluable institute is only about #ab1jjj a year4 ,encouraged by the knowledge of these facts1 a ,german may boldly enter any delicatessen store1 confident of getting things that will taste good and do no harm4 ,and what a variety of luxuries is spread out before him6 ,cold roast joints of all the butchers' meats are placed in line on the counter1 with hams1 raw or cooked1 and sausages diverse1 all eager to be sliced to suit4 ,i say eager because these things--especially the sausages and the hams--taste so good that it surely must give them altruistic joy to be eaten4 ,cold fowl is there1 too1 ready for the carving knife1 or to be taken away whole4 ,the ,germans often lunch or sup on these sliced meats1 huge platterfuls of which are brought on the table--,gemischter ,aufschnitt--and none of it is wasted1 you may be sure4 ,chicken and fish salads diverse1 including herring salad1 and potato salad--one of ,germany's great contributions to the world's gastronomic treasure--are at hand1 as well as another international delicacy of ,teutonic origin--sauerkraut1 raw or cooked2 and sauerkraut is a delicacy2 nor is it indigestible when cooked the right way and long enough4 ,proof of its high standing is provided by the fact that ,france's gastronomic high priest1 ,brillat-,savarin--whose famous work on the ,physiology of ,taste has become so popular that a penny edition of it is sold in the streets--puts it1 with partridge1 on the menu of one of three fine dinners he suggests4 ,the ,french1 indeed1 are almost as much addicted to the eating of sauerkraut as are the ,germans4 ,in ,england and ,america not a few persons foolishly sneer at it as rotten cabbage4 ,it is no more rotten than pickles are rotten1 for it is simply pickled cabbage--cabbage pickled in its own juice plus salt1 and soured by fermentation4 ,the pickles eaten by ,germans are not all sour2 they like1 almost better than the sour kinds1 the dill pickles1 which are cucumbers preserved in a liquid flavored with the blossoms and seeds of an umbelliferous ,oriental plant1 anethum1 cultivated in ,german gardens for its spicy aroma4 ,teutons seem to take to this naturally2 with others it is an acquired taste1 like that for olives4 ,smoked or soused herrings1 sprats1 and diverse spiced fish 7marinirt7 are always on sale in the delicatessen stores1 and they are acknowledged among the best specialties of ,germany4 ,eel and other fish in jelly are other characteristic edibles the ,fatherland has reason to be proud of2 and have you ever eaten cold goose in an acidulated meat jelly8 ,it is worth while going to ,berlin1 just to taste this ,prussian ,gnseweisssauer4 ,smoked ,pomeranian goosebreast is always in stock2 its taste is not unlike that of raw smoked ham and there is no danger of trichinosis1 though1 to be sure1 that danger from eating ham has been reduced in ,germany to a minimum by the strict system of meat inspection4 ,the heads and feet of calves1 sheep1 and swine1 wild and domestic1 are much in demand2 a wild boar's head often is the center of interest in the show window of a delicatessen store4 ,of course there are also canned meats and vegetables1 with diverse fancy groceries and cheeses of various countries1 together with crackers and breads of diverse shape1 size1 and color4 ,but enough has been said to show that a ,german delicatessen store is a treasure house of appetizing foods1 many of them peculiar to the ,fatherland1 and most of them agreeable to the palate of a real gourmet4 ,it is possible that a thousand years hence ,bismarck's fame as a statesman may have waned2 but ,bismarck herring will continue to be served in all lands until the seas are fished out4 ,on a warm summer day1 when you are not hungry and yet feel a vague longing for something piquant1 try a ,bismarck herring with potato salad4 ,you will bless me for the advice4 ,it is very good for the stomach1 too1 the doctors say4 ,,sausages ,,and ,,smoked ,,ham4 ,the ,french have excellent sausages and so have the ,italians4 ,they are hard to beat1 and yet1 in the matter of variety and general excellence1 the ,germans as makers of wrste are supreme4 ,various are the tastes of sausage eaters1 but all of them may be gratified west of the ,rhine4 ,i have before me a book by ,nicolaus ,merges bearing the title ,internationale ,wurst und ,fleischwaaren ,fabrikation4 ,concise directions are given in it for the making of more than a hundred and fifty kinds of sausages1 all of which are manufactured in ,germany1 though some are of foreign origin4 ,why so many kinds of sausage8 ,there is not much difference in their nutritive value4 ,they are made in different ways simply to secure variety in ,flavor1 to please all palates4 ,the book referred to shows how this variety is secured4 ,different meats are used and these are diversely blended1 spiced1 and cured4 ,the possibilities are unlimited2 the hundred and fifty varieties in the ,merges volume are a mere fraction of the total number1 nearly every locality having its special kind4 ,of liver sausages there are two dozen varieties1 the cheapest being made from ordinary beef liver while the ,gnselebertrffelwurst 7goose-liver-truffle sausage7 may cost a dollar a pound4 ,of sausages in which blood is used there are more than a score4 ,these are cheap1 and--well1 if they cost nothing ,i wouldn't eat them4 ,the biggest of all the sausages is the ,cervelat made in ,braunschweig 7many ,german towns have become world-famed by the making of some particularly well-flavored sausage1 cheese1 cake1 or beer74 ,the ,brunswick brand is compounded of beef and pork1 both lean and fat4 ,the ,westphalian variety includes less beef4 ,some kinds of ,cervelat exclude pork1 containing only beef or veal4 ,there is also a homopathetic ,cervelat4 ,it is intended for convalescents1 and has a minimum of fat and spices4 ,a kosher ,cervelat is made for ,hebrews4 ,beef from old cows is not in the best repute1 yet for the making of ,salami it is preferred to the tenderloin of a young steer4 7,the toughest meat sometimes has the richest ,flavor47 ,salami hails from ,italy1 but special varieties of it are made in ,germany1 as well as in ,holland1 ,switzerland1 ,russia1 and ,hungary4 ,it is needless to give details regarding ,plockwurst1 ,mettwurst1 ,knoblauchwurst1 ,knackwurst1 ,schwartenmagen1 etc41 in all their transformations4 ,in some varieties anchovies1 kidneys1 or brains are used4 ,brenwurst is not often seen now1 as bears are getting scarce4 ,horse meat of course is used 7why not87 for cheaper sorts1 and the bow-wow joke of the comic papers is not altogether without foundation4 ,american ,indians agreed with the ,chinese in regarding dog meat as a great delicacy--the dish of honor to be served to guests4 ,dog meat sausage may be quite legitimate1 as long as it is honestly labeled as such4 ,there is a story of a wealthy ,berlin butcher whose son had been promoted in the army by ,moltke1 and who1 to show his gratitude1 advised the ,field ,marshal never to eat sausage4 ,but those days of uncertainty are past4 ,inspection is now so strict in the ,fatherland that one can safely eat whatever is offered4 ,when the eminent ,german novelist1 ,ernst von ,wolzogen1 visited the ,united ,states 7#aiaa7 he exclaimed1 on the eve of departure1 to a reporter for the ,new ,york ,staatszeitung3 ,great heavens1 if you knew what an indescribable longing has often seized me in your country for a good ,german sausage6 ,no--for their food ,i cannot envy the ,americans4 ,considering the large number of ,germans in the ,united ,states it seems strange that they do not insist on having as good sausage made here as on the other side4 ,but they do not4 ,the home-made sausage is usually compounded of worthless scraps1 and is apt to be indigestible4 ,as for the imported ,cervelat and other kinds1 they are often so in name only--which explains that wail1 de profundis1 of ,freiherr von ,wolzogen4 ,american sausages made after ,english or original recipes are generally spoiled by an excessive amount of sage4 ,sage should always be used homopathically1 else it overpowers all other flavors4 ,were ,i ,czar in the realm of gastronomy ,i should forbid the use of sage altogether4 ,the next time you go to ,europe do not forget to make an automobile trip from ,munich to ,berlin1 taking in ,nuremberg on the way4 ,we did that1 with some friends1 in the summer of #aiab1 and when we reached the city of ,hans ,sachs we steered straight for the ,bratwurstglcklein1 a little eating shop1 known by name at least1 to epicures the world over1 though only one dish is cooked in it1 and that dish1 as the name indicates1 is sausage4 ,five ,wrstchen1 no bigger than your thumb1 are served with a portion of sauerkraut4 ,the cost is half a mark--twelve cents--a portion and you can have as many encores as you like4 ,some of us took four1 and so tender and tasty were the little things1 as well as the kraut that we had no occasion to regret it4 ,after all1 we were mere tyros1 as our waiter informed us2 he has known many a man to eat a dozen portions or more and not send for an ambulance--at least1 that's what he said4 ,the number of portions served daily vary from #c1jjj to #e1jjj2 the record is #be1jjj served on a day when there was a ,sngerfest4 ,nuremberg has two other eating places similar to this1 but the ,bratwurstglcklein maintains its preeminence1 owing to its traditions2 for it was in its little rooms that the men who 7with the aid of the ,bratwurstglcklein7 made that city famous--among them ,sachs1 ,welleland and ,drer--used to gather for food and drink4 ,after we had paid our bill--not a ruinous one for an automobile party--we started for the next town on our list1 after buying a few boxes of the world-famed honey cakes 7,lebkuchen7 of the town4 ,we all had seen the other sights of ,nuremberg before4 ,besides1 we were on a gastronomic trip1 and discipline had to be preserved4 ,observation has convinced me that ,americans would be as enthusiastic sausage eaters as the ,germans are if they could get them as well made and cooked4 ,in a large ,new ,york down-town restaurant you can see1 on certain days1 half the guests ordering country sausages1 which1 though good1 are not to be mentioned on the same day as those of the ,bratwurstglcklein4 ,the inference is inevitable that a lunch-room serving honest duplicates of the ,german delicacy would prove a gold-mine4 ,the proprietor of another down-town restaurant who provides excellent little ,frankfurters informed me he got them at a certain shop in which two butchers had successively made their fortune by simply manufacturing these honest little sausages and really smoking them instead of using liquid smoke4 ,it makes such a difference to the palate as well as the stomach4 ,genuine ,frankfurters are made of solid meat 7not lungs7 and they are always smoked4 ,they are known as ,frankfurters throughout the greater part of ,germany and ,austria1 but in ,frankfort they call them ,wiener ,wrstel1 to dignify them1 presumably1 as exotics4 ,smoked sausages and other meats are in great vogue among the ,germans1 whose addiction to them gives them the right to pose as true epicures4 ,do they not provide the whole world with smoked goosebreast1 ,hamburger ,rauchfleish1 and the best of all hams1 the smoked ,westphalian8 ,in ,south ,germany they have a special word for smoked meats1 ,geselchtes1 or ,selchware4 ,the composer ,brahms never missed a chance to get a dish of ,g'selchtes2 it gave him an appetite when nothing else would4 ,bismarck1 the most famous of ,german gourmets1 took great delight in feasting on smoked meats and fish--,spickgans1 ,spickaal1 ,schinken1 c4 ,he knew as much about the different varieties and the places they came from as any dealer in delicatessen1 as we know from the table talk recorded by ,dr4 ,moritz ,busch4 ,smoked ,westphalian ham has carried the fame of ,germany to the lunch tables of all parts of the world2 and not a whit inferior in ,flavor is the ,austrian variety1 ,prager ,schinken4 ,raw or cooked1 these are among the superlative delights of the epicure1 ranking with caviare1 ,camembert1 and canvasback duck4 ,on the appetizing quality of properly smoked meats which makes the mouth water and facilitates digestion ,i have already commented4 ,german and ,austrian hams owe their fame to the fact that they are smoked and otherwise cured scientifically1 regardless of cost1 with a view to developing the most delicate ,flavor4 ,the first thing to be noted is that the men who cure the meats do not dare to denature them 7i4 e41 spoil their natural ,flavor7 by soaking them in solutions of chemicals which are not only injurious to health but which would make it possible for them to hide the putrescence of spoiled meats--as is so often done in ,america4 ,the law on this point is very strict4 ,by orders of the ,imperial ,federal ,council1 dated ,july #d1 #aijh1 the following substances have been forbidden3 ,boric acid and salts thereof1 formaldehyde1 the hydroxides and carbonates of the alkaline salts1 sulphurous acid and the salts thereof1 the salts of hyposulphurous acid1 hypofluoric acid and salts thereof1 salicylic acid and its compounds1 chloric acid and salts1 and all coloring matter4 ,consul ,talbot ,j4 ,albert1 of ,brunswick writes that the ,german inspection laws1 especially in regard to hams and all hog products are so strict that their adulteration would be immediately detected1 the products confiscated1 and the manufacturer severely punished4 ,the ingredients used in the curing of hams before they are smoked are salt1 saltpeter1 and pepper4 ,the quantity of these and other ingredients and the method employed are business secrets difficult to ascertain4 ,in ,america1 sugar-cured ham is advertised in large letters4 ,sugar1 no doubt1 is a good preservative1 and it is harmless1 but somehow it seems as incongruous with meat as salt is with cream or butter4 ,ask an epicure if he would like his oysters with sugar1 and see him shudder4 ,in ,germany1 hams are seldom sugar-cured4 ,the ,daily ,consular and ,trade ,reports for ,december #h1 #aiji1 contains such information on the subject of smoked sausages and hams as the consuls in various ,german cities were able to gather4 ,they found that sausage is smoked up to three or four weeks1 unless it is to be eaten at once4 ,the smoking makes it lose some weight and cost more--but what of that1 as long as the ,flavor is improved8 ,the ,american way is to save the full weight by using chemicals and then sell the denatured stuff as smoked meat4 ,it is profitable to the packer4 ,the consumer--well1 it serves him right if he continues to buy such stuff without a protest4 ,of the contributors to the ,consular symposium on smoked meats in ,germany1 ,vice-,consul ,frederick ,hoyermann of ,bremen gave the most informing account4 ,the fresh ham is put into pure common salt 7sodium chloride7 and is kept therein for about three weeks1 whereupon it is washed and air-dried4 ,after having been exposed to the air for about eight days it is ready for the smoking process1 which lasts from six to eight weeks4 ,it is hung up in the smoke of beechwood chips1 which must burn slowly so as not to create heat or evolve too much smoke4 ,the ham must be smoked thoroughly but gradually1 and must remain cool while undergoing the process4 ,thereupon it is cleaned and is then ready for use4 ,now note what the same writer says about the quick-smoking process3 ,hams are smoked by a simpler and cheaper process1 pine wood being used for smoking instead of beech1 the time allowed for smoking is considerably reduced1 and stronger smoke applied4 ,hams thus cured are1 of course1 inferior in quality1 as they lack in ,flavor and are not fit for export1 because only high-class meats will pay the cost of transportation4 ,the so-called ,westphalian hams do not all come from ,westphalia4 ,the name is generally applied to choice hams which have been smoked thoroughly but gradually in accordance with the methods indicated in the preceding paragraphs4 ,one more important detail4 ,the ,germans know the value of feeding ,flavor into food4 ,as ,consul ,carl ,bailey ,hurst1 of ,plauen wrote3 ,the best and most durable hams are those of hogs which have been fed during the few weeks previous to slaughtering on acorns or corn4 ,juniper berries are sometimes thrown on the beech wood while hams are being smoked1 in the belief that that still further improves their ,flavor4 ,maybe it does--,i have had no opportunity for comparisons4 ,possibly it is a mistake4 ,the ,germans1 though they make the best hams and sausages in the world1 are as a nation far from impeccable2 in the use of spices1 in particular1 they often blunder grossly4 ,it is surely an aberration of taste to mix cloves1 bay leaves1 cinnamon1 caraway seeds1 sage1 or ginger with the preserving fluid2 for these strong condiments destroy the individual ,flavor of the meat4 ,excessive use of spices is the chief blemish of ,german cookery4 ,many otherwise well-made dishes are spoiled by the addition of pungent condiments which completely monopolize the palate4 ,the excessive use of these condiments is a survival of medieval coarseness4 ,i shall not dwell on this1 however1 or on other deplorable relics of the coarse appetite of former generations1 because the object of this book is not to point out the shortcomings of ,european nations but to call attention to practices in which they are ahead of us4 ,let us therefore proceed to another department of gastronomy in which the ,germans 7and their neighbors7 can teach us useful lessons4 ,,live ,,fish ,,brought ,,to ,,the ,,kitchen4 ,the ,paradise of fish-eaters is ,copenhagen4 ,new ,york and other ,american port towns could get some very important hints from the way things are done there4 ,before #ahib it was difficult to bring live fish into the town without contaminating them with sewage and spoiling their flavor4 ,in that year a general sewage system was constructed by which the city's sewage is carried two kilometers out into the open sea1 thus putting an end to the contamination of the ocean front and the harbor4 ,the gratifying results of this reform were described by the ,london ,lancet's representative at the ,sanitary ,congress in ,copenhagen1 ,october1 #aiaj3 ,this not only puts an end to the nuisances that used to arise1 but enables boats full of live fish to come close to shore and right into the town by means of the fresh-water canals4 ,in this manner at least the smaller fish are kept alive till the moment they are sold4 ,any number of wooden boats are pierced with holes and filled with fish2 these boats just float on the surface of the water1 and the living fish is taken out of them when wanted4 ,but as every one cannot go to the water's edge to buy fish1 there are water tanks on wheels and the live fish is brought to the doors of the people's houses4 ,never before1 this sanitarian continues1 have ,i been in a town where all the fish1 whether cheap or dear is so beautifully fresh4 ,the principal fish market was built by the municipality and is let to a wholesale fish salesman4 ,it is a delight to see how clean and bright these premises are kept4 ,there is no spreading the fish on slabs so that dust and dirt may settle on them4 ,very pretty tessellated tile tanks are filled with running water1 and here the smaller fish swim about4 ,in ,berlin and other ,german cities the fish are also brought alive to the kitchen4 ,an eminent artist who is also an ideal hausfrau1 ,mme4 ,gadski1 informed me that she wouldn't think of buying a dead fish4 ,they are brought to the kitchen alive1 and ,i reject those that are not swimming about1 she said4 ,the ,germans are great eaters of fresh-water fishes1 and there are ingenious arrangements for bringing them to market alive4 ,the large fish of the ocean cannot1 of course1 be delivered alive1 but the transportation facilities are now so excellent that not only the more expensive kinds1 like sole1 turbot1 and sterlet1 but the cheaper sorts1 like cod1 haddock1 plaice1 and herring1 are brought to city and town markets in prime condition4 ,a ,german culinary authority specially calls attention to the fact that the ancient and fish-like smell is a thing of the past4 ,in the days when transportation facilities were less adequate this odor made it necessary to boil fish in two waters1 throwing the first away4 ,now the cook has only the natural odor of the unspoiled fish to deal with1 which1 being agreeable1 is carefully preserved in the cooking4 ,the fishing places off the ,german coast are visited daily by fast steamers to collect the catch4 ,the boats are provided with refrigerating apparatus1 and so are the express trains which at ,stettin1 ,geestemmnde1 ,cuxhaven1 and other coast towns1 take the fish from the boats and carry them at full speed to the cities all over the ,empire4 ,the same excellent arrangements for keeping the fish cold without spoiling their flavor by freezing them are to be found on ,german steamers4 ,on the eighth day out on the ,kaiserin ,auguste ,victoria ,i found the salmon as fresh-tasting as if it had just been caught4 ,how do you do it8 ,i asked ,captain ,ruser2 and he explained the system--the refrigerating arrangements which1 with steady ventilation1 provide a frigid atmosphere without actually freezing the fish or the meat4 ,such things cost time and money2 but the ,germans1 being a gastronomic nation1 consider them worth while1 on sea as well as on shore4 ,hamburg sets a good example in showing what a municipal government can do in the way of providing the people with fresh fish and telling them what to do with them4 ,the following is from the ,fremdenblatt of that city2 similar notices frequently appear in the newspapers3 ,,sale ,,of ,,cheap ,,sea ,,fish4 ,the ,staatliche ,fischereidirektion informs us that on ,tuesday1 ,august #bj1 there will be on sale1 at the known #aej shops1 fresh haddocks--averaging pound apiece--at #bc pfennigs #e cents a pound4 ,besides this1 many shops offer for sale fresh mackerel at twenty to twenty-five pfennigs #e to #f cents apiece1 according to size4 ,the mackerel is an excellent fish both for frying and boiling4 ,new directions for cooking haddock in a variety of ways are contained in the illustrated booklet1 ,fischkost1 which is given free to purchasers at all the stalls4 ,the ,hamburgers are lucky in having the net gains of sea fishing placed before them at the earliest possible moment4 ,with the aid of the arrangements just referred to these fishes can1 however1 be bought in good condition as far away as ,vienna4 ,a few years ago the ,austrian officials had a number of railway cars constructed for the transportation of sea fish and also of live fresh-water fish4 ,germany has had such cars for decades1 bringing fish not only from her own ports but from ,holland and elsewhere4 ,african eels are sent from ,algiers to ,marseilles and thence by express trains all the way to ,berlin4 ,eels are usually despised in ,america and with good reason1 for their scavenging habits often make them inedible4 ,but there are eels that live on fresh food1 such as small crustaceans at the bottom of the sea1 and fish roe2 and these are as good as any fish that swims4 ,the large eels served in ,berlin are as tender1 juicy1 and sweet-flavored as shad4 ,when ,i was a student at the ,university of ,berlin1 one of my pet excursions was up the ,spree1 stopping at an inn where eels of medium size--blau gesotten1 were served as a specialty4 ,they were delicious1 though they did look strikingly like snakes as they lay curled up on the plate swallowing their own tails4 ,not a few persons whose education has been neglected refuse to eat eels1 believing them to be allied to snakes1 when in truth they are no more related to snakes1 zologically1 than whales are4 ,and even if they were of the snake family what of it1 if they taste good8 ,the eminent ,norwegian explorer1 ,dr4 ,lumholtz1 who spent several years among the ,australian wild men1 told me on his return1 while we were enjoying a dish of terrapin together at ,henry ,villard's1 that much as he liked this reptilian delicacy1 of which we ,americans are so proud1 he thought that python liver1 which he had had frequent occasion to eat1 was quite as good4 ,while studying at ,heidelberg ,i did not neglect1 it is needless to say1 the ,wolfsbrunnen1 famous for its trout4 ,i have eaten trout1 caught by myself in many parts of the world1 including the ,maine woods1 ,lake ,tahoe in ,california1 and ,trout ,lake in the ,state of ,washington2 but none tasted better than a dish served in ,berlin at a sumptuous new hotel oddly called ,boarding ,palace4 ,all over ,germany fish-breeding in ponds is an important industry4 ,bavaria alone had1 in #aiji1 over #cc1jjj acres of such ponds1 and probably has many more now2 ,saxony had #bjj1jjj acres1 while ,silesia had nearly #fj1jjj4 ,the total area of fish ponds in the ,empire probably does not fall far short of a quarter of a million acres4 ,carp are grown in special abundance1 and ,german carp are very good to eat1 especially when they have been artificially fed and fattened with rice1 potatoes1 fish meal1 or dairy refuse4 ,other kinds grown are perch1 pike-perch1 tench1 eels1 and trout of several kinds1 including the ,american rainbow4 ,the trout are fed shellfish1 slaughterhouse refuse1 horse meat1 fish meal1 and specially prepared foods4 ,everything is done with ,german thoroughness1 and the results once more prove gastronomy to be a good guide to wealth4 ,the profits are increased by selling the fish direct to consumers4 ,fish-growing associations have been formed for this special purpose all over the empire4 ,as these ponds are scattered all over the country it is possible to have everywhere fish just out of the water2 and1 as ,i have said before1 the poorest variety of fish just caught has a finer ,flavor than the best variety that has been kept a few days by any method whatever4 ,i have lived in ,germany three years and do not remember ever to have had on my plate insipid fish1 such as we are doomed three times out of four to eat in our own country1 chiefly because the fish are frozen4 ,dr4 ,wiley insists in his ,foods and ,their ,adulteration 7#aiaa7 that the consumer is entitled to know whether in any given case the fish he purchases is a fresh or a cold storage article4 ,at the present time1 in so far as ,i know1 there are no national1 state or municipal laws whereby this fact can be ascertained4 ,without raising the question of comparative value or palatability there is no doubt but what the consumer is entitled to know the character of the fish he purchases4 ,,big ,,frauds ,,in ,,fish3 ,under this head the ,national ,food ,magazine of ,chicago has published some remarks by ,g4 ,j4 ,l4 ,janes1 which vividly depict the outrages perpetrated in the ,united ,states by cold-storage men4 ,the legal regulations governing the sale of fish are so lax that we have decided to stop handling fresh fish altogether rather than suffer the unjust competition and be a party to so many deceptions on the public4 ,a dealer can take any kind of frozen fish1 thaw it out1 and mark it strictly fresh-caught fish1 and if he so desire1 sell it as such4 ,this is being done all along ,state ,street in ,chicago to-day4 ,it is not only a fraud and cheat on the public1 but it is dangerous4 ,fresh-caught halibut costs #ab cents a pound wholesale4 ,there is #bj per cent4 waste in it1 because of the fins1 skin1 etc41 and hence we have to add #bj per cent4 to the cost in order to break even on it4 ,nevertheless certain stores are advertising strictly fresh-caught halibut at #aj cents a pound retail4 ,of course this is frozen halibut they are selling4 ,that can be bought at #h cents a pound wholesale4 ,the same is true of other fishes1 especially white fish4 ,that costs #bb cents a pound when fresh4 ,certain stores advertise fancy whitefish winter caught at #aj cents retail4 ,there is no mention of its being frozen or cold storage fish1 and so the public is deceived4 ,it is dangerous economy to buy cheap fish4 ,no other food deteriorates so rapidly after it comes from the water4 ,especially is this true of white fish1 which spoils quickest of all4 ,freezing breaks up the tissues1 and when it once is thawed it decomposes with enormous rapidity4 ,as long as the ,american public patiently tolerates such impositions on purse and stomach it seems hardly worth while to discuss the more subtle gastronomic problems1 such as the question put by ,dr4 ,wiley3 ,whether or not the flavor and character of the flesh are impaired by the suffocation process subsequent to the capture of the fish4 ,undoubtedly fish is best when killed the instant it leaves the water1 and then at once eviscerated and cleaned4 ,when we have become sufficiently civilized to insist on such measures being taken1 attention will be paid to the suggestions of the ,danish fisheries agent1 ,captain ,a4 ,solling1 communicated to the ,daily ,consular and ,trade ,reports by ,consul-,general ,wallace ,c4 ,bond1 of ,copenhagen4 ,captain ,solling recommends that the fish1 at least the better kinds1 be cut while yet alive1 promptly cleaned1 and then wrapped in specially prepared paper which would prevent its coming in direct contact with the chopped ice4 ,the objection may be raised1 he admits1 that this way of treating fish is too particular and takes too long2 but the increased work and the increased expense will1 he feels sure1 soon be offset by the higher price secured on account of the better preservation of the fish2 and the intelligent fishmonger will soon discover the advantage of handling fish1 which if not sold to-day1 may be sold in #c1 #d or #h days and still be equally good and fresh4 ,progress along this line of gastronomic civilization will be a boon to the ,american farmer4 ,there are tens of thousands of lakelets and ponds in our country1 most of which might be used for fish culture4 ,they will be so used by farmers as soon as we have learned the lesson the ,german ponds teach1 and stopped buying the flavorless frozen stuff sold in our fish markets4 ,in ,switzerland there has been formed a ,fish-,growers' ,association for the enlightenment of the land owners4 ,its motto is3 ,every ,farmer a ,fish ,pond ,owner4 ,attention is called to the demonstrated fact that an acre of fish pond is more profitable than the same area devoted to the ordinary farm crops4 ,,game ,,and ,,geese4 ,the same care that the ,germans show in the growing and transportation of fish is also manifested in their treatment of game4 ,during the automobile tour across ,germany to which reference has been made1 we purposely stopped1 as a rule1 at the smaller towns and taverns2 but everywhere1 without advance notice1 we had excellent food4 ,i had previously come to the conclusion that the average ,german restaurant serves nearly if not quite as good meals as the average ,french restaurant1 at least in the provinces4 ,it was game season1 and everywhere we were able to get partridges--plump young birds1 juicy1 and cooked scientifically1 at about one-third ,american prices4 ,hares and rabbits are a ,german specialty1 and ,hasenrcken is a very different thing from the undrawn rabbit abomination sold in ,american markets4 ,the ,californian cottontail is the nearest approach we have to the ,teutonic hare4 ,i shot dozens of them in ,los ,angeles ,county one winter and found them as tender and almost as well flavored as young chicken4 ,venison is seldom to be had in our markets and usually only at fancy prices4 ,in ,german restaurants it is as cheap as beef2 sometimes cheaper4 ,the back--,rehrcken--costs a trifle more1 and is better than the rest of the meat1 which is usually served roasted or as a ragout2 but all is good4 ,it seems to be a specialty of the ,rhine boats4 ,other game also is abundant and cheap1 for the simple reason that the greed for sport is regulated by severe laws which are strictly enforced4 ,we1 too1 now have game laws in most of our ,states1 but they are seldom enforced effectively and most of them1 moreover1 were made on the principle of locking the stable door after the horse has been stolen4 ,africa is at present the scene of ruthless slaughter of game1 big and little1 but at its worst it is not often so reckless1 extravagant1 and wasteful as the hideous carnage of which ,americans have been guilty4 ,time was when wild pigeons blackened the sky and were slain by the hundreds with poles4 ,wild turkeys inhabited every thicket and could be bought for twenty cents apiece--they are twice as much a pound now1 though seldom on sale at any price4 ,ruffled grouse were so plentiful that a bounty was offered for their extermination1 their abundance being a menace to the crops4 ,to-day you pay #e for a brace of these birds4 ,deer1 until lately1 were killed for their haunches1 the rest being left for beasts of prey2 while millions of buffaloes were slaughtered for their tongues and hides--often for the tongues alone4 ,the ,audubon ,society1 aided by generous donors and1 to some extent1 by the ,government1 has done royal service to protect game and song birds4 ,the intelligent sporting clubs are lending useful aid1 while the ,yellowstone ,park has been set aside as a great game preserve4 ,unfortunately1 although the animals are safe from guns while they remain in the ,park1 thousands are slaughtered in winter when hunger drives them outside its limits1 while many thousands more perish because no provision is made for feeding these poor wards of the ,government4 ,a pathetic picture is printed in ,dillon ,wallace's splendid book1 ,saddle and ,camp in the ,rockies4 ,it tells a sad story4 ,one settler told him there had been times when he could walk half a mile on the bodies of dead elk4 ,instead of helping its wards1 the ,federal ,government actually gave permits to sheepmen which would have devastated the last refuge of the elks4 ,the settlers saved the situation by holding an indignation meeting4 ,the sheepmen saw the point--and the rope--and discreetly departed4 ,in ,germany the game animals are cared for in winter4 ,while visiting ,mark ,twain's daughter and her husband1 the eminent pianist-composer1 ,ossip ,gabrilowitsch1 in the ,bavarian ,highlands1 in the summer of #aiab1 we met at their house a young tenor who was also a mighty hunter before the ,lord4 ,he gave us an account of the game laws and the general arrangements for preservation and multiplication1 which convinced us that if we are to retrieve the errors and crimes of our predecessors1 ,east and ,west1 we must follow the example of ,germany4 ,pointing to the meadows round about1 he explained that the hay made on these is preserved and fed to the deer in winter4 ,often one may see as many as a hundred at a time assembling for their daily meal1 and people come all the way from ,munich to see them at it4 ,as it had been found that too much hay or other dry food was not good for the deer1 the owners of private game preserves1 of which there are many1 have taken to planting beets1 turnips or potatoes1 which remain in the ground till the animals dig them out from under the snow and soil4 ,a suggestive detail regarding the protection of birds is that thickets1 bristling with thorns1 are specially provided to help them during nesting time and when pursued by birds or beasts of prey4 ,the clearing away of thickets in ,america has done almost as much as actual slaughter in exterminating birds4 ,lovers of song birds as well as epicures who like game for a change would unite in blessing our railway companies if they followed the ,german example of planting shrubs as homes for birds all along the railroad embankments4 ,while the ,germans are fond of partridges and other game birds1 their favorite food1 so far as the feathered tribes are concerned1 is the domesticated goose4 ,in the markets1 especially of the northern cities1 more geese are exposed for sale than all other kinds of poultry combined1 and in restaurants ,gnsebraten is seldom absent from the menu4 ,the ,french rather look down on roast goose1 but that is because their roast goose is not so juicy and tender as the ,prussian1 whether owing to a difference in variety or rearing ,i cannot tell4 ,the ,germans are most painstaking in the growing and the proper feeding of this bird4 ,they know that corn fodder yields the largest amount of fat--and goose fat is much in demand--while the finest ,flavor is secured by feeding barley malt4 ,the best goose1 like the best beef1 is grown where there is abundant pasturage4 ,there is less of this in the ,empire than there used to be1 hence large numbers of geese are imported4 ,from six to seven millions of them are annually brought across the border1 mostly from ,russia4 ,every day1 a special goose train1 consisting of from fifteen to forty cars crosses the ,russian frontier bound for ,berlin or ,strassburg4 ,illustration3 ,deer in ,german ,forest ,strassburg is one of the many cities that were made famous by a special food4 ,goose liver was already relished as a great delicacy by the ancient ,romans2 ,horace refers in one of his poems to the joys of eating the liver of the white goose fattened with juicy figs4 ,in ,strassburg1 unfortunately1 the geese are not fattened with figs1 but are locked up in cages and stuffed for a number of days with shelled corn or noodles till their overworked livers become abnormally enlarged1 after which they are made into what is known the world over as pt de foie gras4 ,this mixture of liver1 meat and truffles is now prepared on a large scale also in ,toulouse and other ,french places1 but the headquarters for it is ,alsace1 where it is made in many places1 though it is said that there is a growing opposition to it on account of the cruelty inseparable from the stuffing process4 ,it's a great pity that such cruelty should be necessary1 for not a few epicures feel like the ,rev4 ,sydney ,smith1 who exclaimed3 ,my idea of heaven is eating foies gras to the sound of trumpets4 ,,in ,a ,,berlin ,,market4 ,that the goose is the food of the day and every day is made manifest in the markets of ,berlin1 of which there are more than a dozen4 ,all the poultry stalls are filled with them1 so much so that other meat1 even the ever-present veal1 shrinks timidly into the background4 ,wherever one stops1 the displays are most attractive4 ,there are unfrozen1 fresh-killed meats of all kinds1 tempting even the sightseer who has no intention of buying4 ,autumn flowers1 and large boxes of deep red ,preisselbeeren--a berry very similar to the mountain cranberry found on ,maine's highest peaks1 and growing everywhere in ,germany 7it ought to be acclimated in our fields7--give rich autumnal hues to many of the market stalls1 while the fragrance of ,gravenstein apples fills the air near the fruit stalls4 ,as in ,paris1 the sea fish are fresh-caught1 with ice about them1 but never frozen1 while fresh-water fish are carried to the buyer's house in a tank and selected alive4 ,the ,german krebs1 or crawfish1 is almost as much in evidence as the ,french crevisses1 and like these1 it is kept in tanks of cold1 running water1 except for a few boxfuls1 the probable supply of the day1 which are sorted out by sizes for convenience4 ,solo-krebs is one of the items on a ,berlin menu1 and means one huge fellow1 almost as big as a small lobster4 ,this ,berlin market1 unlike the ,halles of ,paris1 does not encroach on and beautify the surrounding streets4 ,it is orderly and law-abiding1 and fills up its allotted space of two covered squares to the limit1 but with no overflow4 ,however1 the shops nearby are generally for foods1 with appetizing windows of sausages1 smoked meats and fish1 or cheeses4 ,an oddity of this market is that the upper floor space is divided about equally between fruits and household furnishings4 ,there is an exhaustless supply of step-ladders1 and besides these1 every need of the kitchen is provided for4 ,meat prices1 which soar in ,berlin1 are much lower in the big markets than elsewhere4 ,any one coming directly from the ,united ,states1 where the veal is seldom so good as the lamb or the beef is sure to wonder at the abundance of calves in ,german markets4 ,after sampling the veal a few times1 one ceases to wonder why the ,germans are so addicted to it1 and the ,austrians no less so4 ,the ,french know how to cook veal1 and a good cutlet la ,milanaise is not to be despised1 but there is nothing in its way as good as the ,wiener ,schnitzel or the ,german ,kalbsbraten4 ,the excellence of ,german veal is due largely to the strict exclusion from the markets by the meat inspectors of all animals that are too young or too old1 the ,flavor as well as the tenderness of the meat being largely dependent on the right age for slaughtering the calf4 ,the calves are1 moreover1 milkfed and not brought up on hay-tea4 ,,vienna ,,bread ,,and ,,hungarian ,,flour4 ,while ,parisian bread is as good as bread can be1 it cannot be said that ,french bread1 the country through1 is so uniformly excellent as is ,german bread1 throughout the two ,empires4 ,not only in ,vienna1 ,berlin1 ,munich1 ,dresden1 ,hamburg1 ,stuttgart1 and the other large cities is it almost invariably crisp and tasty1 but it is so in the smaller towns and even the villages4 ,ellwanger does not exaggerate when he says in regard to ,germany that from her inviting ,bckereis and ,conditoreis floats an ambrosial fragrance that may not be equaled by the ptisseries of ,paris1 the variety of her products being as great as their cheapness and wholesomeness4 ,one is born a poet1 saith the adage2 it is equally true that the ,german is a born baker who has no superior in his sphere4 ,the ,parisians1 indeed1 learned the secret of making perfect bread from the ,austrians4 ,bread was baked by ,egyptians and ,hebrews two thousand years before ,christ2 also by the ,greeks1 from whom the ,italians learned the art of making it4 ,there are records of ,roman bakers who became so wealthy and famous that they were invested with the dignity of ,senators1 but there are reasons for believing that if any bakers of our time endeavored to sell the sour stuff these ,romans made1 they would be mobbed4 ,eugen ,baron ,vaerst relates that a jury of ,french1 ,english1 and ,italian epicures decided that the best pastry was made in ,switzerland 7,schweizerbckerei has been famous for more than a century7 and the best bread in ,vienna4 ,the ,austrians may have got some hints from the ,venetians1 who made good bread and excellent biscotti4 ,in consequence of that jury's decision1 an enterprising baker set up a shop on the ,boulevard ,bonne ,nouvelle1 and the ,parisians1 proud to have all that was best in different countries taken to them for their verdict and approval1 decided that this was the best bonne nouvelle that had ever been brought to them4 ,this baker soon became wealthy and so did others who followed his example4 ,to this day pain viennois is in the best repute in ,paris1 and so is ,viennese pastry4 ,most juries of epicures would agree to-day that not only is ,viennese bread perfect but that1 next to ,paris1 the ,austrian capital has the best restaurants1 and the most savory domestic cooking in the world4 ,many of the foods served have local ,flavors1 not the least agreeable of which are those betraying the neighborhood of ,hungary--the ,gulyas1 the ,paprikahuhn1 and other dishes reddened and made piquant with paprika1 which must not be confounded with the much sharper variety of red pepper1 cayenne1 so dear to ,spanish peoples of the old world and the new4 ,a specialty of the ,austrian and ,south-,german cuisine1 the neglect of which elsewhere is incomprehensible1 is the ,mehlspeise1 which ought to be adopted in ,england and ,america as an occasional substitute for puddings and pies4 ,there is an endless variety of these ,mehlspeisen1 under the species ,nudeln1 ,spatzen1 ,kipferl1 ,kuchen1 ,strudel1 ,nockerl1 ,flockerl1 ,kndel1 ,schmarren4 ,really1 the ,kaiserschmarren and the ,apfelstrudel ought to be adopted as national ,american dishes by special act of ,congress4 ,flavorsome ,hungarian flour 7,mehl7 is used in making these dishes 7,speisen7 and that is one of the reasons why they are so good4 ,the ,hungarian brand of flour is the best in the world1 especially the highest grade1 known as ,auszugmehl4 ,it has an amber tint known among bakers as the gelbliche ,stich4 ,on account of its agreeable ,flavor1 ,hungarian flour is sent in large quantities to ,germany1 and some goes as far as ,paris4 ,because of the freight expenses it is not usually sent north of ,berlin4 ,in that city the best bread is made of it1 including the favorite ,knppel and the ,milchbrode4 ,farther north1 a mixture of ,german and ,american flour is used4 ,a few ,american grocers import ,hungarian flour4 ,the test of the best ,european product is that when the hand is laid on it1 it flies up between the fingers4 ,american flour packs4 ,mrs4 ,arpad ,gerster 7whose husband is a brother of the famous ,hungarian prima donna1 ,etelka ,gerster7 gives me the very important information that our flour can be made almost equal to the foreign by drying it on a platter on top of the stove4 ,bread1 cakes1 noodles1 etc41 made with flour thus dried have the much-coveted ,european lightness4 ,the ,germans know as well as the ,french that the crust is the sweetest and most digestible part of bread and that its ,flavor depends on there being a maximum of crust with a minimum of crumb1 quite as much as it does on the grade of flour used1 and the method of making the dough and baking it4 ,to ensure a maximum of crust1 white bread is usually baked in the size of rolls1 as ,semmel1 and in a great variety of other shapes1 every region having its specialty4 ,while it is true that1 as a ,german writer remarks1 the eating of white bread is a mark of prosperity in his country1 it must not be inferred that it is only the poorer classes who buy the cheaper ,schwarzbrod1 made of rye4 ,on account of its agreeable flavor this black-bread appeals particularly to epicures1 and the darkest variety of it1 ,pumpernickel1 is called for by gourmets the world over as the best thing to eat with cheeses of the ,limburger type4 ,it is also used as an ingredient in various ,mehlspeisen and crmes4 ,it is made of flour from which the bran has not been bolted4 ,cereal perfumery is not a thing you can buy at an apothecary's4 ,you get it by munching a piece of rye bread with fresh butter on it and consciously breathing out through the nose4 ,in ,france rye bread is almost unknown4 ,in ,england attempts were made a few years ago to popularize it4 ,nature and other periodicals took up the matter1 which had been brought to the fore during a political campaign where some of the speakers deplored the lot of the ,german laboring man for being obliged to eat rye bread4 ,by way of reply1 attention was called to the fact that the ,kaiser himself always has rye bread on his table1 and that in ,american cities1 as in those of ,germany1 there is much demand for such bread in the wealthy quarters4 ,apparently the attempt to enrich the ,british menu with a cheap new delicacy failed1 for trade reports of #aiab intimated that while there is at all times a demand for corn and oats on the ,liverpool market1 rye does not find sale there4 ,there are many other ,german bread and cake specialties that deserve to be introduced in other countries4 ,two of them are already known to epicures of many countries3 the ,lebkuchen1 or honeycake1 which made ,nuremburg famous1 and the lye-soaked1 twisted1 crisp ,pretzel4 ,this has a little salt strewn on the crust and the same is true of other kinds of small breads4 ,particularly good is the ,mohnbrot1 which is peppered with poppy seeds4 ,try it4 ,poppy seed is as good to eat as any nut that grows4 ,in these things the ,germans show a good deal of imagination2 but as for the anise-seeds so often mingled with the rye bread1 ,i wish they would leave them to the imagination4 ,the general use of them has probably done more than anything else to prevent the acceptance of ,german rye bread in foreign countries4 ,,german ,,menus ,,on ,,sea ,,and ,,land4 ,the ,germans claim that the custom of providing a written or printed menu1 or ,speisenkarte1 originated in their country4 ,at a meeting of the ,reichstag in ,regensburg1 in #aeda1 ,count ,hugo of ,montfort noticed one day at a banquet that the host1 ,duke ,heinrich von ,braunschweig1 had before him a ,zettel1 or slip of paper1 which he glanced at now and then4 ,being questioned1 the ,duke replied that it was a list of the dishes that were to be served1 made for him by the chef so that he might save his appetite for those which he liked best4 ,whether true or not1 the story gives the raison d'tre for a menu at every table-d'hte meal4 ,it is related by ,friedrich ,baumann in his ,meisterwerk der ,speisen1 a monumental work in two volumes1 of over two thousand pages1 to which brief reference has already been made4 ,baumann has been called the ,german ,carme 7who was the ,luther of the ,french cuisine74 ,to him cooking was not mere handwork2 it was an art and a science2 and in his work he not only enumerates and briefly describes the foods of all countries 7for example1 of fishes1 and dishes made thereof1 there are about twenty-five hundred671 but treats of everything pertaining to the growing1 cooking1 and serving of victuals with true ,german thoroughness and with hundreds of those footnotes which are accepted in that country as the best evidence of scholarship4 ,of all the ,german cities none is visited by more ,american and ,english tourists than ,munich2 and few of these fail to go and see the ,court ,brewery1 even though they may not wish to try the beer--the best in the world4 ,you may eat at the ,hofbruhaus without drinking anything1 though you will be stared at as a freak4 ,there are several large dining-rooms and the bill of fare is large1 varied1 and thoroughly ,german4 ,look at the soups1 for instance3 bouillon with egg1 bread soup1 noodle soup with or without a large chunk of boiled chicken1 which adds sixteen cents to the price1 liver-noodle soup1 and brain soup4 ,all are nutritious and tasty and cost only four or five cents a big plate4 ,the fishes offered on this particular day in ,september are carp1 pike1 sand-eel from the ,danube1 and perch-pike4 ,these cost from about #bg to #cb cents a generous portion4 ,ochsenfleisch--boiled beef--is always in great demand and is usually juicy and well-flavored4 ,without vegetables it costs only #ab cents a plate4 ,five different cuts of veal open the list of roasts1 and the same price is charged for them--#ag cents--though in other restaurants the kidney piece often costs a few cents more4 ,pork is two cents and a half higher1 while chicken1 goose1 and pigeon may rise to the dizzy heights of #cb cents a plate4 ,among the day's ready dishes--,fertige ,speisen--we note haunch of venison at #ce cents and leg of venison for five cents less4 ,half a partridge is listed at #bd cents1 and the same charge is made for a quarter of a wild duck4 ,there is of course a ,sauerbraten--a sort of buf la mode with a palatable sour sauce--and you may choose buf brais1 or ,greek steak1 or various mutton dishes1 smoked meats1 and so on1 the prices for these being about #bb to #bd cents1 including a vegetable3 cabbage1 potatoes1 beans1 or rice1 noodles1 dumplings 7,bavarian liver-dumplings--,leberkndel--are fine67 or macaroni with minced ham1 which ought to be on every table in every country at least two or three times a week4 ,the roasts and fries to order include1 of course1 the ,wiener ,schnitzel 7savory when you have ,german or ,austrian veal71 the ,paprikaschnitzel and various other cuts from the calf or the ox4 ,kompotts are in ,germany served with roasts as regularly as salads are in ,france2 they are stewed fruits--apples1 pears1 apricots1 cherries1 and berries among which the ,preisselbeere is most ,teutonic and most delicious4 ,the ,mehlspeisen on this particular menu are fewer in number and less racy of the soil than those you would find on a ,viennese bill of fare4 ,besides the international omelette and the ,italian macaroni there is only the ,german pancake and the ,windnudel4 ,among the vegetables and salads are listed1 rather out of place1 the ,sptzl1 a variety of the noodles which are the ,german version of the ,italian macaroni and other pastes1 and which only a ,german knows how to cook to perfection4 ,a glance at the twenty-two varieties of cold meats and appetizers and the dozen varieties of cheese brings to mind the international aspect of ,german gastronomy4 ,in the more expensive restaurants of ,munich and other ,german cities the ,french influence is more obvious4 ,i chose the menu of the ,hofbruhaus because of its thoroughly bourgeois and ,german aspect4 ,the largest restaurants in the world are in ,berlin2 one of them seats four thousand people4 ,in the bourgeois places the food is usually less savory than in similar establishments in ,south ,germany1 but there is a larger proportion of the high and highest class resorts1 with viands and prices almost1 if not quite1 on a level with those of ,paris and ,london1 which it is the ambition and intention of the ,berliners ultimately to surpass in these respects as well as in the splendors of their hotels4 ,breakfast4 ,fruit ,oranges1 ,bananas1 ,grape ,fruit1 ,grapes ,preserves ,honey1 ,strawberry ,marmalade1 ,jams1 ,quince ,jelly ,sweet ,pickel ,peaches1 ,scotch ,marmalade ,coffee1 ,tea1 etc4 ,coffee1 ,coffeeneless ,coffee ,h4 ,a4 ,g41 ,cocoa1 ,chocolate ,ceylon ,tea1 ,mixed ,tea1 ,milk and ,cream ,bread ,rolls1 ,milk and ,butter ,toast1 ,toast plain ,various ,kinds of ,cakes and ,crackers ,cereals ,milk ,rice1 ,oatmeal1 ,hominy1 ,force1 ,shredded ,wheat1 ,grape ,nuts ,eggs1 ,omelettes and ,pancakes ,buckwheat1 ,hominy1 ,rice and ,wheat ,cakes1 ,pancakes plain1 with ,apples or ,cherries ,apricot or ,currant ,marmalade ,potato ,pancakes1 ,boiled ,eggs1 ,poached ,eggs1 ,baked ,eggs ,fried ,eggs plain1 with ,bacon or la ,tyrolienne ,scrambled ,eggs plain1 with ,ham or la ,bavaroise ,omelette plain1 aux fines ,herbes or with ,strawberries ,fish1 ,steaks1 ,chops etc4 ,kippered ,herrings1 ,haddock1 ,fish ,croquettes1 ,sole1 ,salted ,mackerels ,fillet ,steak ,westmoreland1 ,fillet of ,veal ,esterhzy ,fillet ,gulys with ,mushrooms1 ,german ,beef ,steak ,chicken ,liver on the ,spit with ,pimontaise ,rice ,calf's ,liver with ,apples and ,onions1 ,fried ,calf's ,brains ,sauce ,rmoulade ,grill3 ,tenderloin ,steak1 ,mutton ,chops1 ,sirloinsteak1 ,lamb ,kidneys1 ,english ,ham1 ,frankfort ,sausages ,potatoes ,boiled1 ,fried1 ,baked1 ,mashed ,potatoes ,saratoga ,chips1 ,french ,fried ,potatoes1 ,lyonnaise ,potatoes ,cold ,dishes ,westphalian ,ham1 ,smoked ,bologna ,sausages1 ,smoked ,tongue ,potted ,fieldfares with ,truffles1 ,roast ,beef1 ,chicken ,relishes ,eel in ,jelly1 ,oil ,sardines1 ,anchovies1 ,fillet of ,herring in diverser ,sauce ,cheese ,camembert1 ,herb1 ,imperial1 ,holland ,cheese ,gabel-,frhstck--,luncheon la carte4 ,vorspeisen ,salat de ,boeuf ,parisienne ,kken-,salat ,gerucherter ,aal ,royans la ,bordelaise ,heringsfilet1 ,remouladensauce ,rollmops ,anchovis ,suppen ,hhner-,kraftbrhe in ,tassen ,schottische ,graupensuppe ,kartoffelsuppe mit ,croutons ,fisch ,gersteter ,lachs1 ,anchovisbutter ,streifbarsch1 ,sauce ,pluche ,eierspeisen ,omelett mit ,schnittlauch ,spiegeleier ,othello ,verlorene ,eier ,cardinal ,fleischspeisen und ,geflgel ,kken in ,curry und ,reis ,kalbsleber mit ,aepfeln und ,zwiebeln ,kartoffelmus ,zungenragout ,financire1 ,fleurons ,entrectes la ,macdoine ,jungschweinskeule deutsche ,art ,roastbeef au ,jus ,brgerliches ,gericht ,klops la ,knigsberg ,auf ,bestellung 7vom ,grill #ae ,min7 ,hammelkoteletten1 ,beefsteak ,filetsteak1 ,rumpsteak ,gemse und ,kartoffeln ,brechspargel ,perlbohnen ,spaghetti italienische ,art ,gekochter ,reis ,franzsische und deutsche ,bratkartoffeln ,kartoffelmus1 ,gebackene ,kartoffeln ,salate ,kartoffelsalat1 ,achanaka-,salat ,kaltes ,buffet ,lammrcken garniert ,galantine von ,poularde1 ,sauce ,cumberland ,chaud-froid von ,reh mit ,pilzen ,tournedos ,jockey ,art ,junge ,ente in ,aspik ,gerucherte ,zunge ,gespicktes ,kalbsfrikandeau1 ,roastbeef ,kaltes ,geflgel ,gerucherter und gekochter ,schinken ,kompott und ,sspeisen ,birnen ,blanc-manger mit ,frchten ,schneeblle ,kse ,kruter-1 ,schweizer-1 ,camembert-,kse ,frucht ,kaffee ,hors d',oeuvres ,salad de ,boeuf ,parisienne ,chicken ,salad ,smoked ,eel ,royans la ,bordelaise ,fillet of ,herrings1 ,sauce ,remoulade ,rolled ,pickled ,herrings ,anchovies ,soups ,chicken ,broth in ,cup ,scotch ,barley ,soup ,potato ,soup with ,croutons ,fish ,broiled ,salmon1 ,anchovy ,butter ,striped ,bass1 ,sauce ,pluche ,eggs ,omelet with ,chive ,fried ,eggs ,othello ,poached ,eggs ,cardinal ,entres1 ,roasts and ,poultry ,curried ,chicken with ,rice ,calf's-liver with ,apples and ,onions ,mashed ,potatoes ,tongue ,ragout ,financire1 ,fleurons ,entrectes la ,macdoine ,leg of ,pork1 ,german ,style ,roastbeef au ,jus ,special ,dish ,klops la ,koenigsberg ,to ,order 7from the ,grill #ae min47 ,mutton ,chops1 ,beefsteak ,tenderloin ,steak1 ,sirloin ,steak ,vegetables and ,potatoes ,cut ,asparagus ,string ,beans ,spaghetti ,italienne ,boiled ,rice ,french and ,german fried ,potatoes ,mashed ,potatoes1 ,baked ,potatoes ,salads ,potato ,salad1 ,salad ,achanaka ,cold ,cuts and ,cold ,dishes ,saddle of ,lamb garnished ,galantine of ,pullet1 ,sauce ,cumberland ,chaud-froid of ,venison1 ,mushrooms ,tournedos la ,jockey ,duckling in ,aspic ,smoked ,tongue ,larded ,roast ,veal1 ,roastbeef ,roast ,chicken ,smoked and ,boiled ,ham ,compote and ,desserts ,pears ,blanc-manger with ,fruits ,cream ,puffs ,cheese ,herb1 ,swiss1 ,camembert ,cheese ,fruit ,coffee ,carte du jour4 ,hors d',oeuvres3 ,hors d'oeuvre ,vari ,caprice ,sticks ,soups3 ,consomm ,grimaldi ,cream ,soup la d',orlans ,fieldfare ,soup ,old ,style ,fish3 ,salmon ,cutlets la ,count d',artois ,sole ,meunire ,turbot1 ,butter1 ,parsley ,entres3 ,fillet of ,beef ,renaissance ,lamb ,chops1 ,sauce ,prigueux ,stuffed ,artichoke ,bottoms ,croutons of ,goose ,liver ,moderne 7cold7 ,broiled ,sweetbread1 ,green ,peas ,entrectes ,jardinire ,leg of ,lamb1 ,larded1 ,brussels ,sprouts ,grill3 7#ae-cj min473 ,mixed ,grill consisting of3 ,fillet ,mignon1 ,lamb ,chops ,kidney1 ,sausage1 ,tomato ,tenderloin ,steak1 ,entrecte1 ,sirloin ,steak ,lamb ,chops1 ,mutton ,chops ,ready ,dishes3 ,prague ,ham la ,fitz ,james ,poultry3 ,cherbourg ,poularde ,partridge ,vegetables3 ,palm ,marrow ,bordelaise ,peas and ,asparagus1 ,stew ,corn ,boiled ,rice ,french and ,german fried ,potatoes ,mashed ,potatoes1 ,baked ,potatoes ,compote3 ,green ,gages1 ,strawberries ,salads3 ,lettuce ,salad ,endive ,salad ,sweets3 ,strawberry ,ice1 ,whipped ,cream ,peaches la ,cond ,praline ,ice ,cream ,ice ,napolitaine ,pastry ,cheese ,fruit ,coffee ---------------------------------------- -- ,table-stewards and stateroom-stewards will take orders for dinner at any time during the day4 ---------------------------------------- -- ,a few ,suggestions ,i4 ,hors d'oeuvre ,vari ,cream ,soup la d',orlans ,sole ,meunire ,lamb ,chops1 ,sauce ,prigueux ,stuffed ,artichoke ,bottoms ,partridge ,compote ,salad ,strawberry ,ice1 ,whipped ,cream ,,ii4 ,fieldfare ,soup ,old ,style ,salmon ,cutlets la ,count d',artois ,fillet of ,beef ,renaissance ,croutons of ,goose ,liver ,moderne 7cold7 ,cherbourg ,poularde ,compote ,salad ,palm ,marrow ,bordelaise ,peaches la ,cond ,,iii4 7,supper7 ,caprice ,sticks ,consomm ,grimaldi ,turbot1 ,butter1 ,parsley ,leg of ,lamb1 ,larded1 ,brussels ,sprouts ,praline ,ice ,cream ,pastry ,another ,german ambition is to have the largest and most comfortable floating hotels4 ,the newest ,hamburg and ,bremen steamers are indeed unsurpassed in any respect1 and their cuisine is particularly good4 ,the trans-,atlantic steamers have the great advantage of being able to buy in ,new ,york the best things ,american markets offer1 and in the ,german ports not only the ,european delicatessen1 but those which the sister boats bring from ,oriental countries4 ,i once gained eight pounds in as many days crossing the ,big ,pond on a ,german steamer2 and can you wonder1 in view of the abundance of the choicest viands offered as antidotes to the hunger-breeding sea air8 ,there are now on the largest steamers ,ritz-,carlton restaurants for wealthy epicures2 but you need not go to these for good food1 as the sample menus for first-cabin breakfast1 lunch1 and dinner on the ,kaiserin ,auguste ,victoria1 herewith reproduced1 indicate4 ,he must be hard to please1 indeed1 who cannot find something on such menus to tempt his appetite--unless he is sea-sick4 ,,german1 ,,swiss1 ,,and ,,dutch ,,cheeses4 ,german steamers and ,german restaurants nearly always offer a variety of ,french1 ,dutch1 ,italian1 ,english1 and ,swiss cheeses in addition to those of their own country1 among the best known of which are the ,handkse1 the ,liptauer1 the ,harz1 the ,kruter and the ,limburger1 which1 though it originated in ,belgium1 has come to be looked upon as a specifically ,german variety4 ,germany is not1 like ,switzerland1 ,holland1 and parts of ,france1 a land of pastures green and studded with grazing cows4 ,pasturage throughout the ,empire is usually so scarce--the land being needed for grain and other crops--that the cows1 poor things1 are kept in stables all the year round4 ,it is therefore1 not surprising that ,germany is not among the great exporters of cheeses1 most of the many domestic varieties1 some of which are excellent1 being consumed at home4 ,very different is the situation in ,switzerland1 where cheese-making is one of the principal industries1 the value of the exports exceeding #ab1jjj1jjj a year1 nearly one quarter of which1 in #aiaa1 was sent to the ,united ,states4 ,so good is the ,flavor of ,schweizerkse that even ,france1 in that year1 took #b1fhh1eci worth of it1 while ,germany took #a1hhh1beg worth4 ,nearly all the cheese which ,switzerland exports is of the hard ,emmenthaler type1 put up in the huge cakes familiar to us all4 ,it is practically the same as the ,french ,gruyre4 ,not all ,emmenthaler comes from the ,emmenthal1 the valley where the pasturage is particularly abundant and juicy4 ,the best flavored ,swiss cheese is that which is made in summer1 when the cows roam the mountain sides1 going up higher and higher as the season advances and the snow melts1 till they reach the slopes where even at the end of ,august the soil is still moist and the herbage two or three feet tall4 ,this succulent food1 consisting largely of lovely ,alpine flowers1 they industriously condense into fragrant cream1 butter1 and cheese4 ,when we speak of the ,alps we mean snow mountains1 particularly those of ,switzerland4 ,the ,swiss themselves1 however1 when they refer to the ,alps1 mean the green pastures on the mountain sides on which the cows gather sustenance and wealth for them4 ,on one of these ,alps1 above ,mrren1 ,i once accosted a peasant who gave me information which confirmed my belief that the much-liked ,flavor of ,swiss cheese is due not alone to the succulent ,alpine forage1 but also1 in great part1 to the way the best of it is made--with all the cream left in the milk4 ,this peasant was himself a cheesemaker1 and our conversation took place within sight of his cowsheds4 ,he was surprised when ,i asked him if he ever used sour cream to make butter4 ,he had never dreamt of such a thing4 ,usually he churned it in the evening1 using the cream that had risen on the morning of the same day4 ,at the latest the churning was done the next morning before the cream could possibly sour in that climate4 ,a sour starter1 such as is nearly always added to cream in ,america before it is churned1 he had never heard of2 the very idea amazed him4 ,and ,swiss butter is nearly always good1 while ,american butter is usually bad4 ,questioned in regard to cheese1 he said they made two grades of it1 the ,fettkse1 which contains all the cream1 and the ,magerkse1 made of skim milk4 ,for the latter kind1 he said1 he had no use1 because it was comparatively tasteless4 ,it is made in considerable quantities1 however1 for the poor1 of milk from which the cream has been taken for butter-making or for the hotel tables4 ,cheese-making is much more of a fine art than most of us imagine4 ,the utmost skill and care must be used to exclude undesirable flavors in the air due to uncleanly surroundings1 since cheese absorbs these as readily as butter does4 ,the season of the year and the feed must always be considered4 ,thus1 in regard to the highly prized ,english ,stilton we read that the finest variety is principally made between ,march and ,september and solely from the milk of cows fed on natural pasture2 and that the use of artificial food for the cows is at once detected in a change for the worse in the character of the cheese--that is1 its flavor4 ,upon good feeding depends the production of fat in milk1 and milk fat1 alias cream1 is a great source of ,flavor4 ,the best kinds of most of the leading cheeses are made of whole milk--milk with none of the cream taken out4 ,some kinds1 like cottage cheese1 are made of skim milk yet how the addition of cream improves their ,flavor6 ,camembert1 of course1 is made of whole milk1 and in the manufacture of some kinds1 including ,stilton1 extra cream is sometimes added4 ,much spurious stuff is palmed off on unwary buyers as whole milk or cream cheese4 ,the dealers who do this1 think themselves smart1 but in the end they harm their business4 ,the excellent little book on ,cheese and ,cheese ,making1 by ,long and ,benson 7,london3 ,chapman and ,hall1 #ahif7 begins with these instructive words3 ,professor ,henry1 of the ,wisconsin ,agricultural ,college1 recently stated that the loss of the ,american cheese trade with great ,britain was owing to the fact that his countrymen did not make the best article1 and that in many cases imitation cheese was produced for the sake of a possible temporary profit but to the ultimate loss of all concerned4 ,whatever may be the immediate gain effected by the addition of foreign fat to milk1 or by the removal of a portion of the cream it contains1 the permanent value of the cheese industry to the producer is maintained only by the manufacture of the best and of its production in the largest possible quantity4 ,the italics are mine4 ,they emphasize what is one of the most regrettable aspects of the situation in ,america--the deplorable and at the same time foolish disposition to make an immediate extra profit by unloading on purchasers inferior cheeses and other foods in the belief that the consumers are too ignorant or indifferent to know or care what they get4 ,from personal experience ,i can relate a detail of ,new ,york market history which vividly illustrates the folly of this attitude4 ,for several years ,i was able to buy the best ,edam cheeses made in ,holland--full-cream and therefore full-flavored4 ,one autumn1 on returning to the city1 ,i tried in vain to get this same brand at the places where it had been on sale4 ,i sampled the substitutes but was not satisfied with their ,flavor4 ,having found out through a grocer the name of the importer of that brand1 ,i called on him and asked why he no longer had it on his list4 ,he had the effrontery to inform me that it was because he had had so many complaints that that brand did not keep well--that it dried out4 ,i told him that my own experience had been just the reverse1 and that1 as a matter of course1 the more cream-fat there was in a cheese the more slowly it would dry out4 ,but he stuck to his story4 ,in a confidential talk with a grocer ,i then ascertained what ,i had suspected4 ,dealers in cheap ,edams1 made of skimmed milk1 had crowded out the maker of the creamy ,edam who1 of course1 could not make so low a price to the wholesale dealers as they did4 ,why not import several brands and charge according to their value and ,flavor8 ,i asked1 adding that many persons surely would gladly pay extra for the better grades4 ,but that argument1 too1 was unavailing4 ,the smart dealers did not wish to offer several grades2 they wanted to charge the highest price for the lowest grade4 ,and now note the consequences4 ,in one large market which ,i often passed there was at that time a large show case containing dozens of the familiar red cannon balls2 but they were no longer of the full-cream brand the lively demand for which had won them the most prominent place in that glass case4 ,the new brand bore a label on which was printed ,made of ,skimmed ,milk2 and this same brand seemed to be almost exclusively on sale all over town4 ,there was nothing dishonest about this procedure4 ,dealers have the right to sell any variety they choose1 and this brand1 being clearly marked1 did not pretend to be what it was not4 ,it evidently came from ,holland1 and it was as good a cheese as can be made of skimmed milk4 ,the importers and dealers evidently believed that the consumers were too ignorant or indifferent to care whether or not the cheese they bought had the rich creamy ,flavor4 ,at first ,i feared they might be right in this surmise1 but ere long ,i found that ,i was by no means the only person who had stopped buying ,edam because the best brand was no longer kept on sale in the ,american metropolis4 ,the number of red balls in that show case gradually diminished and finally disappeared altogether4 ,the ,dutch ,government has given much attention to the question of cream in cheese1 and no wonder1 for the annual production of cheese in ,holland amounts to at least #age1jjj1jjj pounds1 of which two-thirds are exported4 ,the ,minister of ,agriculture has authorized the use of labels guaranteeing purity and quality4 ,the ,government control stamp can be used only on cheese made of unskimmed milk and containing #de per cent4 of fats1 writes ,consul ,frank ,w4 ,mahin from ,amsterdam4 ,it is the special intention to make the full-fat product more profitable by marking it1 which at the same time will promote the manufacture of the cheese of superior qualities4 ,in another contribution on this subject to the ,consular and ,trade ,reports 7,april1 #aiaa7 ,mr4 ,mahin provides information which buyers of ,edam or ,gouda will do well to bear in mind3 ,a meeting of the ,north ,holland ,cheese ,control ,station1 attended by a representative of the ,government1 was recently held at ,hoorn1 at which it was decided to divide marked cheese into two classes3 7#a7 ,cheese of ,edam shape1 with fatty component in the dry material of at least #dj per cent41 to be marked #dj1 in a hexagon2 7#b7 full fat cheese1 of different shapes1 with a fatty substance in the dry material of at least #de per cent41 to be marked ,rijkscontrole 7,government control74 ,it was stated at the meeting that the average proportion of fat in the cheese made in #aiaj by factories was #dd4h per cent4 and by farmers #dg4e per cent41 being one per cent4 higher than in #aiji4 ,the quantity of marked cheese sold in #aiaj was #de per cent4 greater than in #aiji1 and the demand from dealers therefore has so much increased that there is now a shortage4 ,evidently1 dealers are not everywhere as short-sighted as were those of ,new ,york4 ,however1 in the autumn of #aiab ,i noticed1 among these1 signs of almost human intelligence4 ,before the end of #aiab ,i saw in some stores ,dutch cheeses labeled ,above #dj butter-fat in total solids4 ,by and by we may perhaps be permitted to spend our money even for the kind made by the farmers and containing #dg4e per cent4 of cream fat4 ,illustration ,x ,,british ,,specialties ,,thackeray',s ,,little ,,sermon4 ,england has produced some eminent epicures4 ,as prominent among them as among her novelists is ,william ,makepiece ,thackeray4 ,in a magazine article on ,greenwich and ,whitebait1 dated #ahdd1 he expressed his scorn for those who do not appreciate good food4 ,a man who brags regarding himself2 that whatever he swallows is the same to him1 and that his coarse palate recognizes no difference between venison and turtle1 pudding or mutton-broth1 as his indifferent jaws close over them1 brags about a personal defect--the wretch--and not about a virtue4 ,it is like a man boasting that he has no ear for music1 or no eye for color1 or that his nose cannot scent the difference between a rose and a cabbage--,i say1 as a general rule1 set that man down as a conceited fellow who swaggers about not caring for dinner4 ,three years earlier1 in his ,memorials of ,gormandizing1 which he penned in ,paris1 he preached another sermon on the subject--a sermon which may fitly be reprinted here because the state of affairs which distressed ,thackeray has not been quite mended yet--far from it4 ,speaking of ,parisian opportunities for gastronomic experiments1 he says3 ,a man in ,london has not1 for the most part1 the opportunity to make these experiments4 ,you are a family man1 let us presume1 and you live in that metropolis for half a century4 ,you have on ,sunday1 say1 a leg of mutton and potatoes for dinner4 ,on ,monday you have cold mutton and potatoes4 ,on ,tuesday1 hashed mutton and potatoes2 the hashed mutton being flavored with little damp triangular pieces of toast1 which always surround that charming dish4 ,well1 on ,wednesday1 the mutton ended1 you have beef3 the beef undergoes the same alterations of cookery and disappears4 ,your life presents a succession of joints1 varied every now and then by a bit of fish and some poultry4444 ,some of the most pure and precious enjoyments of life are unknown to you4 ,you eat and drink1 but you do not know the art of eating and drinking2 nay1 most probably you despise those who do4 ',give me a slice of meat1' say you1 very likely1 'and a fig for your gourmands4' ,you fancy it is very virtuous and manly all this4 ,nonsense1 my good sir2 you are indifferent because you are ignorant1 because your life is passed in a narrow circle of ideas1 and because you are bigotedly blind and pompously callous to the beauties and excellencies beyond you4 ,sir1 ,,respect ,,your ,,dinner2 idolize it1 enjoy it properly4 ,you will be by many hours in the week1 many weeks in the year1 and many years in your life the happier if you do4 ,don't tell me that it is not worthy of a man4 ,all a man's senses are worthy of enjoyment1 and should be cultivated as a duty4 ,the senses are the arts4444 ,you like your dinner1 man2 never be ashamed to say so4 ,if you don't like your victuals1 pass on to the next article2 but remember that every man who has been worth a fig in this world1 as poet1 painter1 or musician1 has had a good appetite and a good taste4 ,,dr4 ,,johnson ,,and ,,samuel ,,pepys4 ,doubtless the attitude towards the pleasures of the table which displeased ,thackeray was largely a sham1 a mere pretense1 though to some extent it was a ,puritan reaction from the gross gluttony in which ,englishmen indulged in ye olden times1 as did the ,germans1 the ,romans1 the ,russians1 the ,dutch1 and many others4 ,dr4 ,samuel ,johnson was an amusing and amazing example of inconsistency in his gastronomic preaching and practice4 ,to ,mrs4 ,piozzi he remarked that wherever the dinner is ill got up there is poverty or there is avarice1 or there is stupidity2 in short1 the family is somehow grossly wrong4 ,to ,boswell he said3 ,some people have a foolish way of not minding1 or pretending not to mind1 what they eat4 ,for my part1 ,i mind my belly very studiously1 and very carefully2 for ,i look upon it that he that does not mind his belly will hardly mind anything else4 ,yet on other occasions ,boswell heard him talk with great contempt of people who were anxious to gratify their palates4 ,he sneered at gluttons1 yet he was one himself4 ,when at table he was totally absorbed in the business of the moment3 his looks seemed riveted to his plate2 nor would he1 unless when in very high company1 say one word1 or even pay the least attention to what was said by others1 till he had satisfied his appetite2 which was so fierce1 and indulged with such intenseness1 that1 while in the act of eating1 the veins of his forehead swelled1 and generally a strong perspiration was visible4 ,he told ,boswell he had never been hungry but once2 upon which that biographer comments3 ,they who beheld with wonder how much he ate upon all occasions1 when his dinner was to his taste1 could not easily conceive what he must have meant by hunger4 ,yet he was a man of discernment3 he used to descant critically on the dishes which had been at table where he had dined or supped1 and to recollect very minutely what he had liked4 ,according to ,mrs4 ,piozzi1 his favorite dainties were a leg of pork boiled till it dropped from the bone1 a veal pie with plums and sugar1 or the outside cut of a salt buttock of beef4 ,he surely needed a ,parisian education6 ,the same witness throws a limelight on the doctor's peculiarities by remarking with regard to drink that his liking was for the strongest1 as it was not the flavor but the effect he sought for and professed to desire4 ,in other words1 strength and quantity were of greater importance to him than quality 7,flavor72 and in this he was a true descendant of his predecessors1 one of whom has left an amazing record of his appetite4 ,the home menus of ,samuel ,pepys included on one occasion a dish of marrow bones1 a leg of mutton1 a loin of veal1 a dish of fowl1 three pullets1 and a dozen larks all in a dish2 a great tart1 a neat's-tongue1 a dish of anchovies1 a dish of prawns1 and cheese4 ,more astonishing still is the following repast1 prepared1 as he boasts1 by his own only mayde3 ,we had a fricassee of rabbits and chickens1 a leg of mutton boiled1 three carps in a dish1 a great dish of a side of lamb1 a dish of roasted pigeons1 a dish of four lobsters1 three tarts1 a lamprey-pie1 a most rare pie1 a dish of anchovies1 good wine of several sorts1 and all things mighty noble4 ,this dinner1 he exclaims1 joyously1 was great4 ,it certainly was4 ,if ,england is to the present day classed among the ungastronomic nations1 by her own epicures as well as by foreigners1 it is due largely to this indulgence in great dinners1 this regard for quantity--especially of meats--at the expense1 usually1 of quality and artistic cooking4 ,generally speaking1 the ,english have been slower than the ,italians1 the ,french1 and the ,germans in discovering the gastronomic importance of the more delicate ,flavors developed by the cooking1 which is done con amore4 ,koche mit ,liebe is the title of a ,german cook book1 and there certainly are more housewives in the three countries named who cook for their families with loving devotion to their task than there are in ,england or ,america4 ,,the ,,roast ,,beef ,,of ,,old ,,england4 ,too much emphasis cannot1 however1 be placed on the fact that1 while all these things are true1 ,england has nevertheless led the way in some of the most important branches of culinary progress4 ,it is to these branches that ,i wish to devote this chapter1 pointing out the lessons ,great ,britain teaches us and the ,european continent4 ,it seems never to have occurred to any writer to do this1 which is strange1 for the story is interesting as well as important4 ,to begin with butcher's meats1 the ,english certainly excel in the roasting and broiling of them1 as well as in the rearing of the right kind of stock1 which is equally important from the point of view of ,flavor4 ,perhaps it is as foolish to refer to the ,british as beef-eaters as it is to call the ,italians macaroni-eaters and the ,japanese rice-eaters1 for the humbler classes in ,england cannot afford beef any oftener than the poorer ,italians and ,japanese can afford to eat macaroni or rice4 ,time was when even the wealthy ,britons could not often eat beef or other butcher's meat1 especially in winter4 ,up to the eighteenth century sheep and cattle were killed and salted at the beginning of cold weather and during several months of the year even the gentry tasted scarcely any fresh animal food1 except game and river fish4 ,as to the common people1 an old chapbook of the period1 entitled ',the ,misfortunes of ,simple ,simon' uses the expression 'roast-meat cloaths' as an equivalent for holiday clothes4#ae ,the systematic growing of turnips for the winter keep of cattle made it possible to have fresh meat in winter1 too2 and at the same time1 thanks largely to the efforts of the agriculturist1 ,robert ,bakewell1 cattle and sheep breeding began to be done on scientific principles4 ,bakewell's aim was to fatten the animals more quickly and to secure a greater proportion and a better quality of meat4 ,the result of such improvements was that1 whereas in #agaj the average net weight of cattle sold in ,london was #cgj lbs41 by the time of ,bakewell's death 7#agie7 it had increased to #hjj lbs41 while the average weight of sheep had increased from #bh pounds to #hj4 ,in the last quarter of the eighteenth century the ,collins brothers still further improved cattle by breeding for special points1 reducing the size of the head and legs and enlarging the useful parts4 ,the shorthorns gradually extended their domain not only throughout the ,british ,isles but to ,france and other countries4 ,improvement continued steadily until ,english beef became the standard for the whole world4 ,with the rapid increase of population and a decrease in the area of pasture land the time came when ,great ,britain had to begin to import meats from ,australia and ,south ,america4 ,at the end of the first decade of this century ,london alone needed #dbj1jjj long tons of meat a year4 ,of this1 over #abb1jjj tons came from ,south ,america1 nearly #ajf1jjj tons from ,australasia1 about #ig1jjj tons from continental ,europe and ,north ,america1 and less than #ie1jjj tons from the ,united ,kingdom itself4 ,for a very good reason there was for years a prejudice against all imported meats1 their use being confined exclusively to the poorer classes who could not afford to pay the higher prices--from three to twelve cents a pound more--asked for the meat from the home-grown or home-killed cattle4 ,the very good reason for this preference for the home product was that imported meat was frozen1 and the public promptly discovered that meat which had been frozen had little or no ,flavor4 ,that freezing spoils the ,flavor of meat was known generations ago4 ,eugen ,baron ,vaerst1 e4 g41 in his ,gastrosophie1 ,vol4 ,i1 p4 #bad1 calls attention to this fact and explains why the meat should be preserved by chilling it2 that is1 by hanging it in an icy atmosphere which is constantly kept moving and which kills all germs of putrefaction without actually freezing the meat4 ,naturally this process costs more than simple freezing2 yet some years ago attempts were made to bring chilled meat from as far as ,south ,america and ,australia1 and after some improvements had been made in the methods of transportation the results were most satisfactory4 ,as one report said3 ,part of a quarter that had been purposely sent a considerable distance and then cooked in the ordinary way for the table was found to be tender1 full of flavor1 and equal to any beef wherever grown4 ,no chemicals were used4 ,an amusing sequel to the story is told with much gravity in a consular report from ,sheffield3 ,frozen meat is much preferred by the trade for two reasons3 ,it is cheaper1 and the customers1 after having used chilled meats1 will not so readily take to the frozen again4 ,the dear dealers1 surely1 ought to be allowed to have their own way4 ,why should they pay any attention to the consumer1 with his ridiculous predilection for food that has ,flavor8 ,germany protested violently in #aiab against attempts to introduce frozen meats1 and the following consular information regarding another country is suggestive3 ,the sale of ,argentine frozen meat in ,switzerland is not so satisfactory as originally expected1 and the large importers are now buying live cattle from that country1 importing through ,italy1 and slaughtering there4 ,,southdown ,,mutton4 ,english mutton and lamb are as far-famed as ,english beef1 and most deservedly so4 ,the unnamed but well-informed author of the hand-book on ,sheep in ,vinton's ,country ,series 7,london7 states the plain truth when he declares that it was because our forefathers had1 during many ages1 been careful and skilful breeders of sheep that their descendants were enabled to take the front rank in the world as improvers of these as well as of horses1 cattle1 and pigs4 ,the ,english1 undeniably1 are in many ways an ungastronomic people1 yet when we reflect that they have given to the world the best butcher's meats--mutton and pork1 as well as beef--their claim to rank high among gastronomic nations is established4 ,think of the important rle butcher's meat plays in our dietary6 ,it was not by a mere accident that ,great ,britain won supremacy in this line1 but in consequence of the application of principles of scientific breeding1 resembling those to which the ,californian1 ,luther ,burbank1 owed his startling successes in creating new fruits and vegetables of superior size1 tenderness1 and ,flavor4 ,it took the combined efforts of several ,english ,burbanks to create the ideal mutton chops and joints4 ,the two who deserve the lion's share of praise were ,robert ,bakewell and ,john ,ellman4 ,bakewell came first4 ,before his day1 the fleece was the thing sheep growers were mainly interested in4 ,they wanted as big animals and as much wool as possible4 ,bakewell was not interested in wool4 ,what he was after was an improved mutton-producing breed--or rather one which1 besides meat1 yielded a large amount of fat4 ,that was what the market of his day demanded1 in consequence of the way in which mutton was served4 ,the usual practice1 we read1 was to put a large joint of fat mutton over a dish of potatoes at the workman's table4 ,the meat went to the head of the family2 the potatoes1 saturated with the meat and gravy1 making a savory meal for the junior members4 ,thousands in the manufacturing and mining districts were for many years brought up in this way1 so that1 in breeding fat sheep1 ,bakewell had a better warrant than would apply in the present day1 when fat is obtained in more palatable and digestible form in butter and its cheaper imitations1 and when the working classes1 as well as others1 prefer to have lean and juicy mutton4 ,an anecdote in ,pitt's ,general ,survey of the ,agriculture of ,leicester 7#ahji7 throws further light on the situation3 ,your mutton is so fat that ,i cannot eat it1 said a gentleman to ,bakewell1 who replied3 ,i do not breed mutton for gentlemen1 but for the public2 and even my mutton may be kept leaner to suit every palate by stocking harder in proportion and by killing the sheep in time4 ,gradually the public's taste for mutton became more gentlemanly4 ,at present the article most in demand is a carcass weighing about twenty pounds per quarter with a large preponderance of lean flesh4 ,the change was accelerated by the activity of the ,ellman family4 ,whereas ,bakewell had operated with the long-wool ,leicester breed1 the meat of which was coarse-grained1 with little delicacy or ,flavor1 the ,ellmans revealed to the world the superlative gastronomic attributes of mutton yielded by the short-wool ,southdowns4 ,in muttonland the ,southdown is what the ,bresse is in the chicken world4 ,in ,london markets you may find palatable meat cut from the carcasses of the ,wensleydale1 the ,suffolk1 the ,dorset1 the ,exmoor1 the ,irish ,roscommon1 and other breeds2 but the three breeds which are rated highest for epicures are the ,southdown1 the ,welsh ,mountain1 and the ,scotch ,black-faced4 ,note that all three are mountain sheep4 ,it is to the hill-lands we must go for meat of the finest ,flavor4 ,as a rule1 we read in the admirable ,vinton book referred to1 the fleezy denizens of the mountains and downs were distinguished by the excellence of their mutton1 their active habits1 necessitated by long journeys in search of the scanty food that was available1 conducing to the development of the finest quality of meat4 ,this point is gastronomically so very important that ,i will quote also what ,professor ,tanner wrote on it1 as long ago as #ahfi1 in a paper on the ,influence of ,climate1 etc41 on ,sheep1 published in the ,journal of the ,royal ,agricultural ,society of ,england3 ,the quality of the meat depends upon the lean portion being tender and charged with a rich juice2 and these results can only be obtained from an animal of mature age1 of active habits1 and fed upon short1 sweet herbage4 ,by activity of body the muscles are brought into exercise1 and a healthy growth is the consequence4 ,the food being short and sweet compels the sheep to take plenty of exercise to gather their supplies1 and the herbage being sweet and nutritious1 in contra-distinction to that which is coarse and immature1 renders the meat savory1 the gravy dark and rich1 and the meat palatable and digestible4 ,professor ,tanner evidently understood the importance of having the right kind of feed--a subject on which much more will be said in a later chapter1 under the head of ,feeding ,flavor ,into ,food4 ,the ,southdown sheep1 which have been happily called small in size but great in value1 inhabit a district the characteristics of which explain the incomparable ,flavor of their mutton4 ,the ,south ,downs of ,sussex1 from which they derive their name1 consist of a range of low1 chalky hills1 five or six miles in breadth1 stretching along the coast for a distance of upwards of sixty miles and passing into the chalky hills of ,hampshire in the west4 ,all the ,southdown mutton1 as a matter of course1 does not come from one locality4 ,the breed has been widely spread over the country and also used for crossing2 but under similar conditions there is no reason why first-class mutton should not be produced in many localities4 ,naturally1 substitution is practised2 and in ,england1 as elsewhere1 the consumer is largely dependent on the honesty of his butcher4 ,if the butcher is a wise man1 anxious to get rich1 he will always provide the best to those who know the difference and are willing to pay for it4 ,john ,ellman devoted half a century to the improvement of ,southdown mutton1 which is now grown in many ,english counties4 ,early maturity has been one of the points aimed at2 to-day ,southdowns are fit for the butcher at thirteen to fifteen months1 and weigh many pounds more than their predecessors did4 ,some epicures still ask for well-aged meat1 but the great buying public prefer tender1 fine-grained meat cut from young sheep4 ,in some parts of the ,united ,states there is a decided prejudice against mutton4 ,no doubt this is due to the fact that many local markets are supplied with the mutton of sheep which are raised chiefly for their wool and yield inferior meat4 ,it would hardly do to throw away the carcases of these animals after they have served their purpose4 ,but surely those who can afford to pay for better meat from mutton-sheep1 ought everywhere to have a chance to do so4 ,mountains abound in our country1 and the breeders can1 as already intimated1 make sheep perform any function they choose quite la ,burbank4 ,we need men of brains who will let our gastronomic demands guide them to wealth along this line as along so many others4 ,valuable hints may be obtained in the ,vinton book1 from which ,i have repeatedly quoted4#af ,one more citation from this creamy little book will help to emphasize the statement ,i have just made3 ,at the time of writing the importations of foreign mutton are very large1 as they have been for some years4 ,in this way there is an abundant supply of cheap1 wholesome food1 which1 however1 lacks the flavor and quality of the home-bred mutton1 and those who can afford it will always give a higher price for the latter4 ,the object1 therefore1 of the home-breeder is to produce the very best description of mutton1 for which there is an increasing demand4 ,,wiltshire ,,bacon4 ,in the restaurants and hotels of ,france and ,switzerland1 no less than in those of ,london1 ,york ham is often served1 and ,york ham at its best is considered by epicures equal to the hams of ,prague or ,westphalia4 ,but if the ,english hams must share honors with the products of ,germany and ,bohemia1 when it comes to bacon1 ,britannia rules the world4 ,let not that seem a trifling matter to any one4 ,bacon--,i mean smoked bacon--is one of the most useful and delicious of all appetizers1 alone or with other meats4 ,it is a great tonic1 too1 on account of its exceptional nutritive value4 ,anemic individuals should eat it every morning2 it is beneficial to consumptives whose digestive powers are not too enfeebled2 and for nursing mothers it is an ideal food4 ,i remember reading in a medical journal that the health of babies is often wonderfully improved if the mother eats bacon--good bacon1 such as one can get in ,england often and in ,america sometimes4 ,the drugged1 denatured1 indigestible rubbish usually sold in the ,united ,states as bacon1 is not fit for food4 ,the men who make it or sell it ought to be imprisoned2 some day they will be4 ,in view of the nutritive value of bacon and its exquisite ,flavor when properly cured1 it seems strange that ,continental nations have not learned how to make it1 except those which1 like ,denmark and ,sweden1 cater for the ,english market4 ,canada also caters to this market and ,canadian bacon enjoys a much better reputation at home and abroad than that made in the ,united ,states1 with a few honorable exceptions4 ,in ,england1 also1 bacon was not always appraised at its true value4 ,dryden1 we are informed1 honestly liked the flitch of bacon better than more delicate fare2 but he deemed it necessary to apologize for having a very vulgar stomach4 ,doubtless1 in his day1 it took a robust stomach to digest bacon1 and doubtless1 also1 it was not so delicate and so well-flavored as it is now4 ,wiltshire bacon is1 like ,southdown mutton1 the outcome of years of ,british breeding on scientific and gastronomic principles4 ,professor ,robert ,wallace of the ,university of ,edinburgh tells in his ,farm ,live ,stock of ,great ,britain what happened3 ,a great change has within comparatively recent years come over the system of feeding pigs1 as well as of curing their carcases4 ,a generation ago it was the custom to kill pigs about two years old1 at enormous weights1 after the flesh had become coarse4 ,the method of curing left the lean portion gorged with salt1 hard1 indigestible and uninviting3 then it was an advantage to have a large proportion of fat to lean4 ,now1 however1 the system of mild-curing renders the flesh sweet and juicy1 and all efforts are directed towards the production of as great a proportion of lean to fat as possible4 ,the large increase of the consumption of fresh pork has also encouraged the demand for young lean bacon2 and on the other hand the change of fashion which has put young and tender pork on the market has helped to increase its consumption4 ,of the many ,english breeds the ,tamworth has been found the best bacon pig4 ,it is one of the eldest breeds and is nearly related to the wild boar4 ,it benefited by the methods of improvement inaugurated by ,bakewell and his pupil1 ,colling2 together with some other ,english breeds1 it has helped to modify1 and in some cases has eliminated1 the kinds of pigs indigenous to ,european countries4 ,the ,danish curers admit that without the importation of stock from ,england their bacon would never have taken such high rank in the world's markets4 ,in the ,united ,states1 unfortunately1 most of the breeds are lard-hogs4 ,bacon pigs1 says ,professor ,robert ,wallace1 fed on ,indian corn degenerate into lard-hogs4 ,now lard is doubtless a profitable article to raise1 both for home use and for export4 ,but in the kitchen the use of lard is an anachronism1 since it has become generally known that butter and olive oil and beef suet are far superior to it in the yield of agreeable ,flavors4 ,yankee ingenuity may even succeed in producing really palatable vegetable oils for cooking--a consummation devoutly to be wished1 because it will help along the efforts to substitute the bacon pig for the lard hog4 ,when ,julius ,sterling ,morton was ,united ,states ,secretary of ,agriculture he published a document which attracted much attention4 ,it was based mainly on a communication received from an ,american official in ,england who advised ,american farmers1 if they would secure a share of the profitable ,danish and ,canadian trade in cured bacon of a superior quality1 to give up the various ,american breeds and substitute the ,british ,tamworths or their crosses4 ,that was many years ago1 but ,american bacon is still for the most part what it should not be1 although efforts have been made to improve it4 ,in the ,journal of the 7,british7 ,board of ,agriculture 7#aiji-aj1 pp4 #ii-ajg7 there is an interesting article on ,coperative ,bacon ,curing1 the author of which says that the most useful breeds of pigs in the ,united ,kingdom for bacon are ,yorkshire and ,berkshire breeds4 ,but a pure breed of pigs is not wanted by the bacon curer4 ,what he wants is a bacon pig1 and this is an animal which does not belong to any particular breed4 ,what is a bacon pig8 ,the same writer answers3 ,a bacon pig should mature in about seven months and should weigh about #afh pounds4 ,this yields the best and most profitable bacon4 ,a bacon pig1 furthermore1 must be long in body and deep in side4444 ,this form is desirable because it is the side of the hog that furnishes the best and most expensive cuts1 and it is necessary to have as much as possible of this at the expense of the other parts4 ,bacon curing as an organized industry is not much over half a century old4 ,the ,wiltshire cure of bacon is1 however1 referred to as far back as #agje by ,edward ,lisle1 in his ,observations in ,husbandry4 ,many years later there came a great expansion of trade in ,wiltshire ,county which made the name world-famed4 ,to this day the bulk of ,british bacon is cured in ,wiltshire fashion in whole sides4 ,there are about fifty bacon factories in the ,united ,kingdom4 ,while their capacity is not so great as that of the factories in the ,united ,states1 the treatment and quality of ,american meat are1 as the writer just cited remarks1 much below the standard aimed at in the ,united ,kingdom1 and notwithstanding the immense supplies of bacon which reach our country from abroad1 the high price of the home product is on this account maintained4 ,it must not be supposed that all the bacon offered for sale in ,england is of superior quality4 ,sanders ,spencer complained some years ago that the ,irish bacon-curers were resting on their laurels2 that a very large proportion of the pigs found in ,england would be looked upon with disgust by the ,danes and ,canadians and that much of the meat from our home-bred pigs is inferior to a great deal of imported pork4 ,the temptation to use denaturing chemical preservatives and to smoke insufficiently1 or not at all1 in order to save weight exists in ,england as in ,america and must be combated by the consumer4 ,extra choice specimens still come from some ,english hill farms1 and the superexcellence of this bacon is due chiefly to its being skilfully smoked in the old-fashioned smoke house1 which cures thoroughly while avoiding the rankness that comes from too rapid curing with very strong smoke4 ,properly smoked bacon is fragrant1 like a flower4 ,the other kind isn't4 ,the test is a very simple one3 if the odor makes your mouth water1 it is all right4 ,not only hill-farmers but thousands of others have a chance to get rich by catering to the gastronomic demands of the time for the best bacon1 ham1 and fresh young pork4 ,the modern method of pig feeding has shown1 as an expert informs us1 that a combination of separated milk and cereals is by far the best fattening material1 and the future of the bacon-curing industry is therefore1 to a large extent1 in the hands of dairy farmers4 ,important information on this point was gathered for the benefit of ,american farmers by ,consul ,homer ,m4 ,byington1 of ,bristol1 and printed in the ,daily ,consular and ,trade ,reports for ,january #d1 #aiab4 ,among other things1 he wrote that ,wiltshire cured hams and bacon command a higher price than the hams and bacon of any other country4 ,it is therefore of interest to ascertain why this should be so4 ,one of the most prominent experts in the industry has stated that it is almost entirely a question of feeding4 ,the fine breed of hogs kept by the best farmers in ,wiltshire1 ,somerset1 and ,dorset are fed principally upon skim milk and barley meal4 ,it is claimed by the ,english producers that ,american hogs are practically all fed on corn1 which1 although a perfectly wholesome food1 tends to make the hog fat1 and a little mellow1 whereas feeding by the ,british method gives a meat beautifully white and as solid as meat need be4 ,referring to a leading ,wiltshire curer1 the ,consul continues3 ,this latter firm1 although purchasing #b1jjj to #c1jjj hogs per week from farmers in the surrounding territory1 does not allow any breeder under contract to give his animals refuse for food4 ,the pigs are subject to an ante-mortem and a post-mortem examination by a qualified veterinary surgeon and medical officer of health4 ,no boracic acid or other injurious preservative is used in curing4 ,in ,germany1 where one gets not only hams of the best quality1 but excellent roast pork1 many others besides farmers have taken to raising pigs4 ,in #ahgc there were only #g1abd1jhh pigs in the country2 in #aijg there were over #bb1jjj1jjj4 ,the number of sheep has decreased in about the same proportion because three hogs can be raised by a peasant where he could not graze one sheep4 ,pigs are particularly profitable because they can be fed largely on kitchen refuse and unsalable skim milk and because a pig will produce a pound of meat from a far less weight of food than will either sheep or cattle4 ,by mixing brains with the food1 the profits can be enormously increased4 ,let me ask every ,american and ,english farmer to put the following words of ,england's leading authority1 ,sanders ,spencer1 into his pipe and smoke them slowly and thoroughly3 ,this selection of a compact1 thick-fleshed1 and pure quality sire is of even greater importance in the pig department of the farm than in many others1 as our object is to breed a pig which is capable of converting a large quantity of food into the largest amount of fine quality of meat1 and is so formed that the latter is placed on those portions of the pig's body which realize the largest price in the market4#ag ,there is a funny story of a farmer who gave his pigs all they could eat one day and starved them the next1 in order to have his bacon nicely streaked with alternate layers of fat and lean4 ,in ,england they seem to have a number of these ingenious farmers2 at any rate1 in ,wiltshire bacon there is always plenty of lean meat4 ,and how delicious it tastes when grilled1 or baked in a roasting pan on a wire rack from which the fat drips to the bottom of the pan6 ,when the bacon is too fat to suit the native connoisseur it is apparently exported to ,america and sold at fancy prices to people who have more money than knowledge4 ,gastronomic demands suggest many opportunities to get rich1 particularly along this line4 ,spencer speaks of the marvelous increase in the proportion of the inhabitants of the ,british ,isles who now eat pork4 ,ireland exported nearly #ag1ejj1jjj worth of pork products in #aiji4 ,the slaughter houses of ,denmark deal with over a million pigs a year1 largely for export to the ,united ,kingdom1 which1 in #aiaa1 imported altogether nearly #ajj1jjj1jjj worth of bacon and other pork products4 ,in epicurean ,france pork gains rapidly on other meats and the ,germans eat nearly twice as much pork as they do beef4 ,the figures1 in pounds1 of the per capita consumption in the ,empire for the first three months of #aiab stood in this ratio3 ,mutton #j4cc2 veal1 #a4ed2 beef1 #g4hg2 pork1 #ad4ee4 ,,fair ,,play ,,for ,,pigs4 ,in the ,united ,states1 also1 the demand for pork products is growing4 ,it would grow very much more rapidly were it not for three drawbacks3 the custom of denaturing hams and bacon and of marketing the tough meat of old lard-pigs1 and the impudent sale to the public of the products of swill-fed hogs that are not fit to eat4 ,it is impossible to place too much emphasis on the fact that no matter of how fine a breed the pig may be1 its meat is spoiled if the feed given it is of an offensive nature4 ,farm-kitchen refuse is harmless when mixed with milk and greens1 but porkers fed on city swill and garbage do not yield palatable meat4 ,pigs seldom have fair play4 ,most farmers lower the value of the pork they raise by not giving the animals fresh air1 sunshine1 some exercise1 and clean sties4 ,in these respects we are not the only sinners4 ,from an admirable editorial article in the ,london ,times of ,june #bg1 #aiab1 ,i cite the following3 ,the pig is generally kept in conditions of a grossly unsanitary kind4 ,he is quite a cleanly animal if left to himself1 but he is kept in sties which compel him to wallow in filth all day and to sleep in a horribly confined and polluted atmosphere when he seeks shelter4 ,nature did not construct him for such conditions1 but for an open-air life1 and it is not really surprising that he develops swine-fever1 which1 by the way1 is remarkably like the fevers that afflict overcrowded1 filthy1 and unventilated human dwellings4 ,cowhouses are regulated1 but pigsties are not4 ,their position1 however1 is regulated in a way that presses very hardly upon cottagers4 ,it is calmly assumed that pigsties must be dirty and offensive1 so instead of insisting that they shall be clean1 legislation decrees that they shall be at a distance from dwellings which makes it impossible for a cottager to pay his rent with cheaply raised bacon4 ,pigs that are overfed and denied fresh air1 sunshine1 exercise1 and a clean bed cannot possibly yield meat with a tempting ,flavor1 for such animals are really diseased--as unhealthy as the slum-dwellers in our large cities1 whom no cannibal would touch4 ,the best ,american ham1 as everybody knows1 is the ,virginia1 cut from hogs that roam the woods1 live on acorns and beech nuts and are thoroughly healthy4 ,the attitude of the ancient ,britons toward the pig was one almost of reverence1 not only because of its utility in the larder1 but because it fed on the acorns from the sacred oaks4 ,in those days all ,british pork was no doubt similar to the meat of the young wild boar4 ,civilization1 as in so many other things1 brought on a temporary deterioration which caused pork to be despised and considered fit only for those who had not the means to buy something better2 and it is only now that we are coming to realize fully that the fault was that of the farmers who1 by refusing to give the pigs fair play1 made it impossible for them to come up to the highest epicurean standard as regards ,flavor4 ,illustration3 ,the ,boar ,according to high geological authority1 the boar1 from whom our domestic pigs are descended1 was coeval with the extinct species of the mastodon and the dinotherium1 and hence must be regarded as the most ancient of our domesticated animals4 ,an aristocrat1 in other words1 is the pig6 ,he is selfish1 like most aristocrats--that cannot be denied2 but he is clean--even his mud baths are taken merely to cool off or to scour his skin4 ,trainers1 moreover1 will tell you that he is one of the most intelligent of animals4 ,pig brains are good to eat1 too--better than calves' brains1 but are usually sold as calves' brains because that's what the ignorant purchaser asks for4 ,and pork1 young1 tender1 and not too fat1 is good all the year round1 not only in the months which have an ,r in them4 ,,grouse ,,and ,,grilled ,,sole4 ,wild boars no longer roam the forests of ,england4 ,sportsmen do their pig-sticking in the jungles of ,india4 ,but venison in season is still in evidence1 and the hare will never be extinct1 though he now comes to ,london chiefly in shiploads from ,australia4 ,the well-informed editor of the ,hors d'uvre department of the ,pall ,mall ,gazette gives an amusing glimpse of the situation as regards ,english and ,scotch venison1 which he considers a veritable delicacy1 preferable to the highly-sauced venison of ,france and ,germany3 ,we ought really to eat more venison when in season1 but if the ordinary housewife were asked to provide it quite in the ordinary way for an ordinary dinner at home1 she would be entirely nonplussed4 ',but the butcher does not keep it4' ',try the poulterer4' ',the poulterer says he can get it at a day's notice4' ,why all this fuss8 ,venison is a national dish2 it is not expensive2 it is most nutritious and wholesome4 ,some one ought to 'buck up' the venison market4 ,among ,british feathered animals the best is the grouse1 the only really native game bird of these islands4 ,it comes to ,london by fast expresses from the ,north--recently also from ,ireland1 which would be a finer grouse country1 were it not for poachers4 ,for the first days of the season grouse bring easily a guinea a brace in ,london market1 cheaper ones being cold-storage suspects4 ,later on--thanks to rational methods of game preservation--they pour in daily by the tens of thousands and come down to #hs4 or less a brace4 ,though never as cheap in the restaurants as partridge is in ,germany1 grouse is worth its price when cooked in the ,english way1 which preserves all the woodland flavor of the bird4 ,english farmers have not waked up to the opportunities that lie in catering to the demand for fresh-killed poultry of all kinds4 ,the best restaurants get their supplies usually from ,france4 ,there is in the ,kingdom not even one adult fowl per acre of cultivated land4 ,here are possibilities of tremendous improvements1 for1 as ,professor ,edward ,brown of the ,ontario ,agricultural ,college has truly said3 ,masses of people living under highly artificial conditions must have food high in nutritive elements1 easily digested and palatable1 in which respect eggs stand first among all natural products and poultry not far behind4 ,a well-known poulterer is cited as saying in regard to the ,london markets3 ,fat goslings and ducks are in good demand1 and the best prices are being given for them4 ,one hundred and fifty years ago tens of thousands of geese and turkeys were reared in ,suffolk1 ,norfolk1 ,cambridgeshire1 and adjacent counties4 ,the numbers now are1 in comparison1 insignificant4 ,nevertheless1 the industry is one which might be made one of great importance and quite comfortable profits4 ,a very different situation confronts us when we look at the supply of seafood4 ,here the ,british ,isles hold their own in competition with any country1 and the methods adopted to ensure a daily supply of fresh fish cannot be too urgently commended to ,american fish dealers4 ,one of the most interesting sights in ,london is ,billingsgate market4 ,fish have been sold here for several centuries1 but under changing conditions4 ,no longer will you find here the fat1 motherly flatcaps1 with fish-baskets hanging over their heads instead of riding-hoods1 with silver rings on their thumbs1 and pipes charged with 'mundungus' in their mouths1 sitting on inverted eel-baskets and strewing the flowers of their exuberant eloquence over dashing young town-rakes who had stumbled into ,billingsgate to finish the night4444 ,but the town-rakes kept comparatively civil tongues in their heads when they entered the precincts of the ,darkhouse4 ,an amazon of the market1 otherwise known as a ,billingsgate fish-fag1 was more than a match for a ,mohock1 as ,george ,augustus ,sala remarked in his ,twice ,round the ,clock1 or the ,hours of the ,day and ,night in ,london4 ,gone are these amazons who by their abusive speech gave a new word to the ,english language4 ,men now monopolize ,billingsgate ,market1 and the joke of it is that these men1 as we found them at six o'clock on a ,september morning1 are the very pink of politeness1 most courteously ready to answer your questions regarding different fishes1 and cockles1 and periwinkles1 though they know you are not there to buy4 ,even the rough1 hurrying fish-porters make way for you to pass1 and the auctioneers stop to warn you against places where your clothes might get soiled by drippings4 ,billingsgate is now entirely given over to the wholesale fish-trade4 ,the smell of it1 fish-like but not ancient--for it is a clean place--easily guides you to the spot from the nearest station of the subway's inner circle4 ,the streets near it are wet with the drip of fish-filled boxes1 and crowded with wagons that are being loaded with the town's provisions of sea food--strictly fresh every day4 ,billingsgate ,market being on the water's edge all the fish is unloaded direct from the fishing boats4 ,processions of porters come from the boats1 each with a great box full of fish balanced on the top of his head1 on a queerly-shaped1 padded1 waterproof hat made expressly for this work4 ,the fish are kept cool with loose ice1 but are not frozen4 ,the ,spanish mackerel with their dark markings and opaline sides offer the most beautiful sight of all1 so freshly caught that their colors are as vivid as when they left the water4 ,besides these are whitings1 flounders1 pale-brown sole1 halibut1 turbot1 all shining from the sea1 and among the shellfish may be seen oysters1 huge crabs1 lobsters1--white flecked dark green ones--periwinkles1 and cockles4 ,the latter look somewhat like very small clams1 and they are sold cooked1 having been separated from their shells by large sieves4 ,in the best ,new ,york restaurants you are not sure of getting fresh fish when you order it4 ,in the best ,london restaurants you are4 ,probably some of the fish we saw that morning at ,billingsgate was served to us that evening for dinner4 ,i mean sole1 of course4 ,we were to be in ,london only a week on this occasion1 and when you are in ,london a week only it would be unutterably absurd not to eat grilled sole at least once a day1 for you cannot get anything equal to it anywhere else in the wide1 wide world4 ,there are some1 ,i know1 who place turbot above sole1 and others even prefer plaice4 ,put no faith in such people2 they could never be honestly elected to a place on the bench of the ,gastronomic ,supreme ,court4 ,turbot is delicious1 and so is plaice1 and so are chinook salmon and our shad and whitefish4 ,each of these seems the best of all fishes while you are eating it2 but sole actually is the best4 ,how do ,i prove this8 ,like the musician who boasted he was the best horn player in the world1 ,i do not prove it2 ,i admit it4 ,seriously speaking1 there can be no doubt that if a vote were taken on this question among the epicures of ,europe1 sole would win by a large majority4 ,in ,germany the ,seezunge1 or sea-tongue1 is the choicest of marine delicacies1 and in ,france the chef's chief glory is his sole and the special sauce he serves with it4 ,but nowhere is the sole so juicy and flavorful as in ,england2 nor is it disguised there with any sauce1 being served usually right off the grill4 ,grilled ,sole is one of ,england's great specialties4 ,whitebait is another4 ,it is not a distinct species but consists of the fry of herrings1 smelts1 sprats1 sand-eels1 weevers1 etc4 ,it is supposed to have been first served in #aghj4 ,to this day no tourist who likes good things to eat omits a trip to ,greenwich to enjoy a dish of whitebait at headquarters in the ship tavern4 ,when ,thackeray was there he indulged in these reflections3 ,ah1 he must have had a fine mind who first invented brown bread and butter with whitebait6 ,that man was a kind1 modest1 gentle benefactor to his kind4 ,we don't recognize sufficiently the merits of those men who leave us such quiet benefactions4 ,a statue ought to be put up to the philosopher who joined together this charming couple4 ,yarmouth bloaters and other cured fish are ,british specialties relished the world over4 ,but the best of them is ,finnan haddock1 so named after ,findon1 a fishing village near ,aberdeen where haddock smoking with peat or oak dust has attained perfection4 ,there are flavorless imitations1 preserved with pyroligneous acid4 ,the genuine are cured in smoke houses4 ,the condimental value of smoke is illustrated by the fact that while fresh haddock is by no means rated among the finest fishes1 finnan haddie is one of the very best of cured fishes4 ,the ,whitstable oyster is still another marine specialty enjoyed1 not only throughout the ,british ,isles as one of the most precious natives1 but also on the ,continent4 ,far away ,austria imports only #aj1jjj worth of oysters a year from all sources1 but from ,berlin and other ,german cities come large orders for the best ,english bivalves4 ,france also takes them1 but not on a large scale1 as her own oyster production is large4 ,the best ,whitstable oysters--from the coasts of ,kent and ,essex--are known as royals and cost in restaurants three or four shillings a dozen1 which is considerably more than the price charged in our own restaurants4 ,whether they are worth more is a much disputed point4 ,most ,americans object to what they call the coppery taste in ,english and ,northern ,european oysters4 ,paderewski agreed with those who pronounce the ,english oyster superior to the ,american4 ,i suggested that he probably had had the floated ,american oysters only4 ,certainly ,i have never tasted oysters with a more delicious ,flavor than genuine ,blue ,points1 ,cotuits and ,lynnhavens4 ,the ,english natives are small1 juicy1 and fragrant of the sea--great appetizers indeed4 ,alas1 in ,england also the sewage plague has cast its blight on the shellfish business4 ,two decades ago #afj1jjj1jjj oysters are said to have been landed annually4 ,in #aiaa the number fell forty or fifty millions short of that figure because of typhoid fever and other diseases traced to the eating of oysters from polluted beds4 ,the importation of ,american oysters was only at the rate of #ajj barrels a week in #aiaa1 as against #b1jjj barrels fifteen years earlier4 ,of the other ,british shellfish the periwinkle is much appreciated by the epicurean ,french who1 not satisfied with importing them from ,england in bulk have also brought them over to plant in their own beds4 ,they are boiled a few minutes in salted water and served with butter as an entre1 usually at the second morning meal4 ,,covent ,,garden ,,market ,,scenes4 ,that the ,english do not live on butcher's meats and marine food alone1 is made manifest by a matutinal visit to ,covent ,garden4 ,in ,covent ,garden a filthy noisy market was held close to the dwellings of the great4 ,fruit women screamed1 carters fought1 cabbage stalks and rotten apples accumulated in heaps at the thresholds of the ,countess of ,berkshire and of the ,bishop of ,dunham--such is ,macaulay's picture of this market at the close of the seventeenth century4 ,it is still given up entirely to vegetables1 fruits1 and flowers1 but is now clean1 orderly1 and not especially noisy1 as markets go--not so noisy1 perhaps1 as some of the operas performed in the neighboring ,covent ,garden ,theater1 the resort of fashionable society4 ,in ,september we found the flower pavilions the most interesting part of the market4 ,chrysanthemums with rich1 deep-colored blossoms were the reigning favorites4 ,conspicuous among their rivals were the dahlias1 gaudy and varicolored1 some of them solid as cabbage heads1 others strangely-quilled4 ,bright autumn leaves1 recalling ,new ,england1 attracted our attention4 ,in one spot golden chrysanthemums and melons of exactly the same shade made a beautiful picture4 ,on the whole the vegetable quarters are not specially interesting1 particularly when one has seen the ,halles ,centrales of ,paris4 ,flowers do not1 as in ,paris1 crowd in among them1 nor are the streets picturesque and slippery with many shades of green refuse4 ,the carts are not emptied as they are in ,paris1 but form each its own stall4 ,all the vegetable pictures are skied1 and are far less attractive than when they lie1 in orderly confusion1 all over the market streets4 ,celery1 the first we had seen1 was enormous1 but deep green1 instead of white1 like ours4 ,many of the provisions are packed and sold hidden in large round baskets4 ,a perfect tower of ,babel1 ten baskets in all1 is one man's load1 carried on his head1 but they are evidently empty1 as two seem to be as heavy a weight as a man cares to balance when they are full4 ,george ,meredith is quoted as having said to a friend that he would be a vegetarian if he could get his vegetables decently cooked4 ,there are a few vegetarian restaurants in ,london1 and probably there would be many more if the ,english knew1 as several ,continental nations know1 the art of cooking greens and roots in a savory manner4 ,sir ,henry ,thompson grew enthusiastic over the delicious characteristic flavor of ,english garden peas1 picked young and cooked l',anglaise1 which is a better way than any ,french fashion of cooking them4 ,vegetable marrow tastes better in ,england than anywhere else1 and the mushrooms are good4 ,but on the whole ,england has a great deal to learn from ,france regarding variety and the best ways of growing and cooking vegetables4 ,salad plants1 in particular1 are not appreciated as they should be4 ,read this wail1 for an illustration1 from a ,covent ,garden market report in the ,london ,telegraph3 ,nothing short of a prolonged heat wave induces people to eat liberally of this health-giving vegetable4 ,it was pitiful1 yesterday1 to see stacks of first-rate lettuce utterly neglected4 ,the very best samples1 carefully selected and packed in boxes1 realized no more than #f;d4 per score--a score1 by the way1 being twenty-two heads4 ,any amount remained unsold4 ,tomatoes are getting to be almost as popular as in ,america4 ,in ,england1 as elsewhere1 there are those who maintain that no salad is perfect without the inclusion of a little tomato2 and of course the delicious love-apples1 as they used to be called1 are eaten in many other ways1 raw or cooked1 grilled tomatoes being an ,english specialty4 ,that ,england is a great fruit country no ,american can admit1 however much he may enjoy the luscious hot-house and wall-grown peaches1 nectarines1 melons1 pears1 and grapes4 ,fruit needs1 above all things1 sunshine1 and of sunshine we have a great deal more at home1 especially in ,california4 ,at ,covent ,garden and in the fruit shops of the metropolis there are indeed some tempting displays1 but the prices are apt to stagger the visitor from across the ,atlantic1 who seldom pays more than a nickel for a peach or two--say two shillings a dozen at most--whereas in ,england peaches grown in orchards sell at retail for six to ten shillings a dozen1 while those grown in hot-houses bring from fifteen shillings 7#c4fe7 to a guinea 7#e4aa7 per dozen4 ,if you told the average ,londoner that in ,new ,york one can often buy five or six good cantaloupes for a shilling1 he would not believe you without an affidavit signed by the ,consul ,general4 ,it may be said that owing to their cooler climate the inhabitants of the ,british ,isles do not need fruit as much as we do1 and that is true4 ,yet in all climates1 seasons1 and conditions of the weather fruit is healthful1 and its ,flavor is a great appetizer and aid to digestion4 ,it is therefore encouraging to notice that strenuous efforts are being made not only to remove the old reproach that ,english grapes and other hot-house products have more beauty than ,flavor1 but also to raise and import orchard fruits in such abundance as to bring them within the reach of the purchaser of moderate means4 ,the growth of the banana trade strikingly illustrates this point4 ,in the first years of this century this sweet and nutritious fruit was seldom seen in ,english markets4 ,to-day there is a whole fleet of steamers occupied exclusively in bringing bananas from the ,west ,indies and elsewhere to ,british ports4 ,the change was greatly accelerated by the shrewdness of the importers1 who freely advertised the merits of their goods in the newspapers1 citing sample recipes for cooking them from a little book which is offered free4 ,this method of educating the public to try new foods and dainties doubtless has a great future4 ,the ,germans have a saying3 ,was der ,esel nicht kennt das frisst er nicht1 which politely translated means the public must be taught to eat things it does not know4 ,a decade ago one seldom saw any grapefruit in ,england4 ,it was ,mrs4 ,john ,lane who taught ,londoners the art of enjoying this most wholesome and palatable fruit--the queen of the citrus tribe4 ,its juice is the most marvelous combination of sour1 bitter1 and sweet in existence1 and its charm grows on you from day to day4 ,mrs4 ,lane induced her greengrocer to keep some in stock1 but ere long he confided to her that they were bloomin' sour and mostly a dead loss1 for customers never bought them more than once4 ,they're forever asking me how to eat 'em1 he said1 and how should ,i know6--here he wiped his hands hesitatingly on his apron--but if ,i could tell 'em how1 why the trade would be grateful2 anyhow1 ,i'd be4 ,so ,mrs4 ,lane wrote a little pamphlet in which she explained the secret of serving grapefruit sweetened in such ways that all may enjoy it4 ,it is entitled ,the ,forbidden-,fruit or ,shaddock2 or ,grapefruit1 ,how to ,serve and ,how to ,eat ,it4 7,john ,lane1 ,vigo ,street1 ,london47 ,doubtless this pamphlet had much to do with increasing the number of grapefruit eaters in ,britain1 now said to be very large4 ,it is well to know that there are many varieties1 and that some are far inferior to others2 so if you eat one and it does not please you1 don't be rash and say you do not like grapefruit4 ,try the other kinds4 ,the best are neither too sour nor too bitter1 and they have a wild fragrance as exquisite in its way as the marine tang of live oysters4 ,when you get one of these you need none of the sugar1 or the liqueur1 or maraschino cherries nearly always served with grapefruit4 ,just peel off the yellow skin1 cut the fruit lengthwise1 separate the sections with your fingers1 remove the membranes1 and you have a pile of pulp resembling so many crab tails1 which dissolve in the mouth and flood the palate with ambrosial ,flavor4 ,oranges are good1 but grapefruit is as superior to them as sour cherries are to sweet4 ,one of ,england's chief claims to gastronomic distinction is that her orchards include plenty of sour-cherry trees4 ,a common ,french name for tart cherries is cerises anglaises1 which seems to indicate that they are an importation from ,england4 ,epicures1 from the ancient ,lucullus1 who introduced the sour cherry into ,europe1 to ,paderewski1 who eats no others1 agree that1 thoroughly ripened1 it is far superior in ,flavor to the sweet cherry1 besides being more delicate1 melting1 digestible and wholesome4 ,on a warm day nothing--not even a glass of lemonade or limeade--is so agreeably refreshing as a handful of ,early ,richmonds1 ,morellos1 ,montmorencys1 or ,baldwins4 ,a ,british expert claims that despite the sunshine and climate of ,france1 the quality and flavor of cherries grown in ,england are much superior to those of the foreign fruit4 ,of no product of his island is the ,englishman more boastful than of his strawberries4 ,big they certainly are1 and beautiful2 also fragrant after a few days of sunshine4 ,freshness1 which is of such great importance in the case of these berries1 is secured by growing them in enormous quantities within a twenty-mile radius of ,london4 ,they are picked early--often by the light of lanterns--brought to the city1 and delivered to families for breakfast a few hours later4 ,usually they are carefully graded1 and you get what you order and pay for1 be it specials1 firsts1 or seconds4 ,after all1 the big strawberries1 however luscious1 are seldom so fragrant as the little ,french fraises des bois1 or strawberry of the woods4 ,these are imported to some extent2 yet a writer in the ,london ,telegraph remarks that if home-growers were to market tiny specimens with ambrosial flavor there would be no sale for the fruit1 nor would the wild strawberry of our hedgerows be appreciated by the pampered gourmets of ,london4 ,if this is true1 something must be wrong with these same pampered gourmets4 ,perhaps the wild berries are less fragrant than in ,france4 ,in ,oregon1 as you drive along wood roads and fields1 the air is heavy with the fragrance of wild strawberries4 ,but the richest perfume of the kind ,i ever inhaled was1 strange to say1 in the far north--the ,norwegian city of ,molde1 where two bowls of strawberries on the table made the hotel dining-room smell like an ,oriental rose garden4 ,it was in ,norway1 too1 that ,i ate the best sour cherries ,i ever tasted4 ,the fame of the ,british gooseberry has crossed the ,atlantic1 the jam made from it being purchasable in all the larger grocery stores throughout the ,united ,states and ,canada4 ,the gooseberry is indigenous to ,great ,britain1 where it flourishes particularly well because it does not need or desire much sunshine4 ,this is doubtless the reason why the ,british berry is superior to the ,american4 ,i have read in a ,london journal that ,american visitors are highly appreciative of the flavor of ,english gooseberries1 as those of their own country are not nearly so good4 ,in hotels largely frequented by ,transatlantic guests there is quite a brisk demand for the fruit1 especially the large yellow 'sulphur' berry and the 'white lion4' ,as judges of fruit ,americans are proverbially keen1 and their selections are usually worth following4 ,,marmalades1 ,,jams1 ,,and ,,breakfasts4 ,in the matter of bottled condiments1 sauces1 walnut1 mushroom1 tomato and other catsups1 diverse pickles1 and biscuits in endless variety 7of which1 as of the bottled things1 millions of dollars' worth are exported annually71 ,great ,britain is also preminent2 and what is particularly commendable is that ,british products for export are usually made as conscientiously as those for home consumption4 ,you can buy them in a ,japanese village1 and be as sure of their excellence as if you got them in ,london4 ,gladstone was a great believer in jam4 ,he constantly urged his countrymen to eat more of it and induced a number of them to go into the manufacturing business4 ,some of these lost money because the thing was overdone for a time4 ,while good jams and jellies are made in many countries1 in the matter of marmalade1 ,scotland has a virtual monopoly so far as superexcellence is concerned4 ,open an ,american cook book and you will find that the directions for making orange marmalade begin with the words1 ,take one dozen oranges and four lemons1 and end with the information that when bitter marmalade is desired the bitter can be obtained by soaking the orange seeds overnight and adding the water drained from them to the other ingredients4 ,a marmalade thus obtained is better than no marmalade at all1 but it is far inferior to the ,british product1 which is made of special varieties of oranges4 ,inquiries having come from firms in the ,united ,states1 the authorities in ,washington asked ,commercial ,agent1 ,john ,m4 ,carson1 to find out the secret of the superior ,flavor of ,scotch marmalade4 ,the information he obtained is so instructive that ,i must quote it1 in part1 from the ,daily ,consular and ,trade ,reports of ,february #ag1 #aiaa3 ,british marmalade is produced from sour oranges and sugar4 ,the best-known firms use almost exclusively the ,seville 7,spain7 bitter orange1 which has comparatively little pulp and consists mainly of rind1 the substance most desirable for the making of good marmalade4 ,messina and ,palermo bitter oranges1 although not considered as good as those of ,seville1 are also used1 but command a much lower price4 ,with the exception of a very few firms who buy and pulp oranges at ,seville and ship the pulp to ,england for preparation and canning by ,english factories1 marmalade manufacturers buy the raw material in open market4 ,london1 ,liverpool1 ,manchester1 and ,hull are the principal orange markets4 ,the grower ships his product to his agents or to orange brokers or auctioneers1 and it is then put up for sale to the highest bidder on a given date1 in lots of scores1 hundreds1 or thousands of boxes1 very much like wheat and other produce are sold in their respective exchanges1 with the exception that in the case of oranges there are no future sales1 nor are reserve prices made4 ,oranges being perishable1 and their attractiveness and freshness continuing for so short a time1 the brokers accept the highest bids made on the day of sale and never reserve the fruit for future offerings4 ,the sales are held regularly on what are known as market days4 ,the character1 quantities1 qualities1 and nativity of the fruit are made known to the trade by catalogue several days in advance1 consequently the auctions are always well attended and the bidding spirited4 ,the ,london ,fruit ,exchange is located in the eastern section of the city in a large structure known as the ,monument ,building4 ,more than #ab1jjj1jjj per annum is the amount required to pay for the oranges sold in the ,english market1 the great bulk of the sales being by public auction4 ,apples are sold in like manner1 the aggregate annual sales averaging in value #aj1jjj1jjj4 ,the great ,covent ,garden market1 in the heart of ,london1 buys its supplies of fruits at the regular auction sales held at the ,london ,exchange1 and in turn the retail dealers are supplied from ,covent ,garden4444 ,the law requires that marmalade shall be composed of orange and sugar exclusively1 and if any other substance is employed1 no matter for what purpose1 the manufacturer is liable to a heavy fine4 ,it is generally conceded that the law is observed by ,english manufacturers4 ,fruit preservers as a rule use refined cane sugar1 which they buy in the open market4 ,orange marmalade has made ,scotland famous throughout the gastronomic world1 which seems odd in view of the fact that the country is too far north to raise oranges4 ,we shall see in the last chapter that the appreciation of bitter marks a higher stage of gastronomic culture than the liking for sweets or even for sour4 ,the best orange marmalade is always bitter1 and to this it owes not only much of its agreeable taste but its value as a tonic1 the rind of the bitter orange being a valuable stomachic4 ,it is therefore not strange that although there are many makers of this delicacy1 the home demand often exceeds the supply1 and that the new crop always is eagerly looked forward to4 ,it has been claimed1 with some show of reason1 that ,british sturdiness is largely a result of the national custom of having bitter marmalade regularly served with breakfast4 ,breakfast6 ,that word suggests another great service ,britannia has done the gastronomic world4 ,nothing could be more irrational for normal persons than the continental habit of eating only bread and butter for breakfast and then having a second1 heavier breakfast--djeuner la fourchette--at eleven or twelve o'clock to interrupt the morning's work in its full tide4 ,far better1 both economically and hygienically1 is the ,english way--which fortunately we have adopted--of having a substantial breakfast1 and then nothing more till lunch time1 the best hour for which is one o'clock1 as most of us know instinctively4 ,a healthy person ought to have a good appetite in the morning1 after a night's rest1 and gratify it4 ,lunch should be light1 and dinner1 more substantial than breakfast1 should begin not later than seven for persons who retire at an hour conducive to longevity--that is1 an early hour4 ,,restaurants1 ,,cakes1 ,,and ,,plum ,,pudding4 ,as a rule1 ,british inns and restaurants serve food as badly cooked as it is in ,american hash houses1 if not more so4 ,i have had experiences with meat pies and sausages1 with several kinds of pastry and with tasteless vegetables that quite recalled the ,arizona days before ,fred ,harvey came from ,england--as related in the first chapter of this book--to civilize our ,southwest4 ,adulteration of foods is largely practised1 and many of them are denatured by the use of chemical preservatives1 although in these respects there has been considerable improvement since the ,lancet exposed the appalling state of the food supply and fearlessly gave the names and addresses of hundreds of manufacturers and tradesmen who sold adulterated articles4 ,it was hoped that with the introduction of motoring there would come a revival of the good old coaching inns2 but nothing of the sort has happened4 ,according to the gastronomic editor of the ,pall ,mall ,gazette what the touring motorist gets is probably an ,american preserved soup which tastes like boiled blankets1 a few sardines1 stale and too long opened1 a joint which has either been overcooked or under-done1 a sodden pancake with no suggestion of the real thing1 and a piece of cheese which is obviously non-,british4 ,and for this he is charged at least five shillings4444 ,on the ,continent one can get an excellently cooked and served meal for half the price4 ,while the ,english are thus their own severest critics1 they do not hesitate1 when brought to bay1 to present the other side of the shield4 ,in commenting on the ,exhibition of the ,cookery and ,food ,association in #aiab1 the ,london ,telegraph called attention to the fact that typical dishes are served to perfection every day on innumerable ,english tables2 and the writer just quoted1 referring to the fact that ,france1 ,austria1 ,hungary1 ,italy1 and ,switzerland had sent over experts to show how things are done in their countries1 goes on to say that it might humbly be suggested that our own cooks might show the foreigners something4 ,few cooks1 other than ,english1 can cook whitebait satisfactorily2 the same applies to ,irish stew1 steak1 and kidney pudding with larks and oysters1 to liver and bacon1 to tripe and onions 7no1 not tripe la mode de ,caen71 to a really good devil1 and above all1 to curry1 wet or dry4444 ,it is really about time that the ,british cook asserted himself4 ,a ,german lexicographer calls attention to the fact that the ,united ,kingdom has contributed at least half a dozen words to the international dining-room language3 ,beefsteak1 roast beef1 ,irish stew1 mock-turtle soup1 pudding1 and toast4 ,he might have added marmalade and cakes4 ,a firm in ,germany once offered a thousand marks for a good ,teutonic equivalent for cakes2 with what success ,i do not know4 ,it is not strange that ,continental manufacturers are so much interested in these ,british cakes and biscuits4 ,they are favorites the world over because of their crispness and good ,flavor1 and the exports of them amount to about #a1djj1jjj a year4 ,seven million dollars6 ,is there a better guide to wealth than gastronomy1 the art of preparing and serving appetizing food8 ,plum pudding is another profitable product of ,british manufacturing skill4 ,though it has been traced to a ,teutonic origin 7,pflaumen-grtze7 it is now characteristically ,anglican1 and the plum 7,pflaume7 has disappeared4 ,in that monumental compendium of ,english philological erudition1 ,murray's ,new ,english ,dictionary1 we read as one of the definitions of ,plum3 a dried grape or raisin as used for puddings1 cakes1 etc41 and the editor adds3 ,this use probably arose from the substitution of raisins for dried plums or prunes as an ingredient in plum-broth1--porridge1 etc41 with retention of the name plum for the substituted article4 ,considering the national liking for this pudding it is not surprising that the word plum for this favorite was retained1 for plum also stands for tit-bit1 or a good thing in general4 ,as long ago as #affj devotion to this dish was amusingly illustrated by these words in a mock sermon3 ,but there is your ,christmas pye and that hath plums in abundance4444 ,he that discovered the new ,star in ,cassiopeia 444 deserves not half so much to be remembered1 as he that first married minced meat and raisins together4 ,until a few years ago the ,english housewife always boiled her own plum pudding4 ,to-day she can buy it if she desires4 ,it is made by machinery2 hundreds of thousands of pounds are shipped to other countries annually2 and it is claimed that this kind is as a rule superior in ,flavor and digestibility to the home-made4 ,it was during the ,boer war that the export business received its first great impulse1 thousands of pounds being sent to the soldiers in ,africa to give them a taste of the ,christmas dinner at home2 and now the pudding is made in such large quantities that the ,united ,states ,government has begun to take cognizance of it in official reports4 ,in the ,consular and ,trade ,reports 7#aiaa7 ,commercial ,agent1 ,john ,m4 ,carson1 had a two-page communication from which ,i cite the following3 ,the extent and magnitude of the trade may be inferred from figures furnished by one of the several large manufacturers4 ,in order to be prepared to meet the demand for their product1 manufacturers begin active operations as soon as the new crops of raisins1 currants1 and other required fruits appear in ,september4 ,all the constituents of plum pudding1 which do not include plums1 are prepared and manipulated by elaborate and expensive machinery4 ,currants are washed and stems removed1 raisins are stoned1 nuts are shelled and ground1 oranges and lemons are peeled1 the peel candied and cut up1 eggs are beaten1 and all other ingredients prepared by machinery4 ,the manufacturing firm alluded to1 in order to supply their trade this season1 used the materials and quantities given below4 ,pounds4 ,currants #ade1hjj ,sugar #aja1bej ,peel #gb1cfj ,suet #gb1cfj ,bread crumbs #gb1cfj ,flour #ed1jjj ,raisins #dh1ccj ,sultanas #dh1ccj ,china ginger #c1eaj ,spices #a1ddj ,almonds #djj ,milk1 gallons #idh ,rum1 gallons #idh ,exclusive of milk and rum1 the ingredients above enumerated aggregate #fbj1adj pounds used by a single manufacturer in supplying plum pudding to meet the demands of the ,christmas season of #aiaj1 the number of puddings furnished aggregating #bej1jjj4 ,there are three or four other ,london manufacturers each of whose output perhaps equaled that described1 and there are a large number of smaller establishments in which plum pudding was supplied for home and foreign consumption4 ,the pudding is put up in packages weighing one to five pounds each and securely packed to insure preservation and safe transportation4 ,properly prepared and packed the plum pudding of ,england1 with ordinary care on the part of the housewife1 will retain its virtues for a year or more4 ,plum pudding has the evil repute of being indigestible4 ,an ,english friend informs me that while it certainly is so if boiled only three hours1 as is usually done1 it becomes as digestible as good bread if boiled seven hours4 ,it is then compact and yet brittle4 ,illustration3 ,ye ,olde ,cheshire ,cheese ,still another profitable branch of the art of preparing appetizing food is that of the cheesemaker4 ,if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery1 the ,english makers of ,cheddar cheese have been flattered as few mortals have2 for in the ,united ,states1 as well as in ,canada and ,australia1 most of the cheese made is of the ,cheddar type4 ,there would thus be no cause for exporting ,cheddar1 even if ,england had any to spare2 nor is much of the ,cheshire sent abroad1 its fragile nature making it unsuitable for exportation1 which is to be regretted1 because in the opinion of ,dr4 ,voelker1 shared by many epicures1 ,cheshire is the finest flavored of ,british cheeses4 ,it is made from milk which is perfectly sweet1 and to this its special aroma has been attributed4 ,for the third of the three best-known varieties of ,british cheeses--,stilton--there is a considerable demand for the tables of foreign epicures1 as it exports well4 ,stilton is a blue-molded cheese1 which is manufactured of unskimmed milk in a way similar to the methods of making the ,french ,roquefort and the ,italian ,gorgonzola4 ,like those1 it owes its piquant ,flavor to the mold1 which is artificially spread throughout the cheese in diverse ways4#ah ,every ,american tourist who visits ,london goes to take a meal at ,ye ,olde ,cheshire ,cheese1 made famous by ,dr4 ,johnson and ,oliver ,goldsmith1 and for three centuries the haunt of literary men1 including ,dickens and ,thackeray4 ,toasted cheese--cheese bubbling in tiny tins and tasting like ,welsh rarebit--was the original specialty of this place and is still served unless you prefer a wedge of uncooked ,cheshire4 ,but what ultimately made this place renowned throughout the world was its lark pudding4 ,fortunately it is lark no more but pigeon pudding2 at least1 so it was frankly called when ,i ate it in ,september1 #aiab4 ,what else it is compounded of no one knows but the proprietor and the cook1 who guard the secret carefully4 ,kidney and steak and oysters are hinted at1 and diverse strong spices are certainly in it4 ,,haunch ,,of ,,venison1 #c_/f4 ,this day at #f o'clock4 ,friday1 #acth ,september1 #aiab4 ,,bill ,,of ,,fare4 ,,ready ,,from #ab ,,noon ,,to #i4cj ,p4,m4 s4 d4 ,,simpson',s ,,fish ,,dinner1 consisting of three kinds of ,fish #c #i ,dinner from the ,joint #b #f ,dinner from one ,special ,dish #b #f ,dinner from one ,special ,dish1 with ,joint to follow #c #j ,dinner from two ,special ,dishes #c #f ,,the ,,above ,,prices ,,include ,,vegetables1 ,,cheese1 ,,bread ,,and ,,butter1 ,,and ,,salad4 ,joints1 #b_/f ,,served ,,freshly ,,cooked ,,at ,,the ,,following ,,hours4 ,,from #ab4j ,saddle of ,mutton ,,to #i4cj ,roast ,sirloin of ,beef ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,roast ,sirloin ,beef #a4j ,boiled ,beef ,forequarter ,lamb ,roast ,loin of ,pork #e4cj ,boiled ,beef ,roast ,sirloin of ,beef4 ,saddle of ,mutton #f4j ,saddle of ,mutton ,roast ,sirloin of ,beef ,forequarter ,lamb #g4cj ,saddle of ,mutton #f4j ,haunch of ,venison1 #c_/f ,,the ,,above ,,prices ,,include ,,vegetables1 ,,cheese1 ,,bread ,,and ,,butter1 ,,and ,,salad4 ,soups4 s4 d4 ,turtle1 clear or thick #c #j ,green ,pea #a #f ,scotch ,hotch-,potch #a #j ,ox ,tail1 clear or thick #a #j ,thick ,mock ,turtle #a #j ,clear ,mock ,turtle #a #f ,julienne #a #j ,macaroni #a #j ,gravy #a #j ,vermicelli #a #j ,tomato #a #j ,,note4--,,if ,,served ,,with ,,joint ,,or ,,special ,,dish ,,to ,,follow1 #f;d4 ,,less ,,will ,,be ,,charged ,,for ,,each ,,of ,,the ,,above4 ,fish4 s4 d4 ,boiled ,salmon and ,lobster ,sauce #b #f ,boiled ,turbot and ,lobster ,sauce #b #j ,curried ,turbot #b #j ,fried ,turbot #b #j ,sole ,souchet #b #j ,salmon ,cutlets and ,piquant or ,indian ,sauce #b #j ,curried ,prawns #a #f ,fresh ,herrings and ,mustard ,sauce #a #f ,,freshly ,,cooked ,,salmon ,,and ,,turbot 7,,the ,,whole ,,fish7 ,,served ,,daily ,,from #ab ,,noon ,,to #i4cj ,p4,m4 s4 d4 ,fish ,pie #a #j ,fish ,balls or ,cakes #a #j ,fried ,whiting #a #j ,whitebait #a #f ,stewed ,eels1 ,port ,wine or ,parsley and ,butter ,sauce #a #f ,fillet of ,sole1 ,fried or ,boiled #b #j ,sole1 ,fried1 ,grilled or ,boiled #b #j ,,note4--,,if ,,served ,,with ,,joint ,,or ,,special ,,dish ,,to ,,follow1 #f;d4 ,,less ,,will ,,be ,,charged ,,for ,,each ,,of ,,the ,,above4 s4 d4 ,plain ,lobster #b #f ,lobster ,mayonnaise #c #f ,lobster ,salad #c #j ,salmon ,mayonnaise #b #f ,,whitstable ,,native ,,oysters1 #c_/-per dozen4 ,special ,dishes1 #b_/f4 ,,ham ,,and ,,peas4 ,,hashed ,,venison4 ,,stewed ,,neck ,,of ,,lamb ,,and ,,peas4 ,curried ,chicken ,chicken ,marengo ,haricot ,mutton ,fricass ,chicken ,stewed ,pigeon ,curried ,fillets of ,mutton ,stewed ,rump ,steak ,stewed ,kidneys ,,the ,,above ,,prices ,,include ,,vegetables1 ,,cheese1 ,,bread ,,and ,,butter1 ,,and ,,salad4 ,,from ,,the ,,grill 7#ae to #cj minutes47 s4 d4 ,mutton ,cutlets1 ,tomato or ,piquant ,sauce #b #f ,rump ,steak #b #f ,grilled ,fowl and ,mushroom ,sauce #c #j ,porterhouse ,steak #d #f for two #g #f ,mixed ,grill--,chop1 ,kidney and ,sausage #b #f ,,the ,,above ,,prices ,,include ,,vegetables1 ,,cheese1 ,,bread ,,and ,,butter1 ,,and ,,salad4 ,chump ,chop #a #f #aj ,loin ,chop #a #c mins4 ,two ,kidneys #a #c ,lamb ,chops #b #f ,game4 ,,partridges #e_/- each4 ,,grouse #e_/- each4 ,vegetables4 ,,new ,,peas1 #f;d4 per portion4 ,beetroot4 #c;d4 ,tomato1 ,plain1 #c;d4 ,tomato1 ,grilled1 #d;d4 ,cucumber1 #c;d4 ,sweets4 ,tapioca ,pudding #f;d4 ,mixture of ,fruit #f;d4 ,orange ,fritters #f;d4 ,apple ,fritters #f;d4 ,madeira ,jelly #f;d4 ,damson ,pie #f;d4 ,prunes and ,rice #f;d4 ,apple ,pie #f;d4 ,college ,pudding #f;d4 ,sweet ,omelette #a_/- ,lemon ,pudding #f;d4 ,st4 ,clair ,pudding #f;d4 ,rum ,omelette #a_/f ,ices4 ,strawberry ,cream #i;d4 ,pineapple ,water #i;d4 ,sundries4 ,anchovy ,toast1 ,fish or ,paste #i;d4 ,macaroni with ,cheese #f;d4 ,macaroni with ,tomatoes #f;d4 ,welsh ,rarebit #f;d4 ,buck ,rarebit #i;d4 ,scotch ,woodcock #a_/c ,anchovies1 ,plain #f;d4 ,poached ,eggs on ,toast #i;d4 ,sardines on ,toast #i;d4 ,bloaters ,roes on ,toast #i;d4 ,stewed ,cheese #f;d4 ,red ,currant ,jelly #c;d4 ,olives #f;d4 ,tea and ,coffee4 ,tea1 per cup1 #f;d4 ,tea1 per pot1 #a_/- ,coffee1 small cup1 #d;d41 large1 #f;d4 ,cream1 #c;d4 ,dessert4 ,,pears1 #f;d4 each4 ,almonds and ,raisins1 #i;d4 ,,apples1 #c;d4 each4 ,,attendance1 #c;d ,,each ,,person ,,charged ,,in ,,the ,,bill4 ,,fine ,,old ,,tawny ,,port4 #h;d4 ,,per ,,glass4 ,,bass ,,co',s ,,pale ,,ale ,,on ,,draught4 ,,whitstable ,,native ,,oysters4 #c_/-per dozen4 ,,the ,,cheddar ,,and ,,cheshire ,,cheeses ,,served ,,here ,,obtained ,,first ,,prize ,,at ,,the ,,dairy ,,show #aiaa4 ,we entered the kitchen1 but did not see the immense bowl that holds enough for sixty or seventy people1 according to the booklet of ninety-two pages which tells the story of this eating place4 ,nor did we test the assertion that you can have two1 three1 or four helpings of the pie if you chose4 ,to tell the plain truth1 one was quite enough and more4 ,never in all my wanderings--not even in ,spanish countries where cayenne pepper is the staff of life--had ,i put into my mouth a mess so peppered and otherwise over-seasoned as this same fiery pigeon pie4 ,and the taste lingered for hours1 giving me time to call back to memory all that ,i had read about the condimental atrocities of the ,middle ,ages1 when the porpoise1 the whale1 the seawolf made favorite dishes2 when potatoes were seasoned with nutmeg1 cinnamon1 pepper1 lemon1 sugar1 and rosewater2 and meats were maltreated even more barbarously4 ,quite as ,english as the ,cheshire ,cheese1 and more up to date1 is another ,london restaurant which all ,americans visit--,simpson's1 where joints are wheeled to you on little tables and you choose the particular cut you want4 ,a glance at the bill of fare herewith reproduced will interest those who have never had a chance to compare ,english with ,american menus4 ,colonel ,newnham-,davis accomplished the task of writing a book of three hundred and seventy-six pages on the restaurants of ,london entitled ,dinners and ,diners4 ,it is not so interesting or so useful a book as his ,gourmet's ,guide to ,europe1 yet it succeeds in a gossipy way in giving the atmosphere of these places4 ,the best of them are in most respects frankly ,parisian in cuisine and menu4 ,the epicurean ,colonel found four dozen among them with sufficient individuality to claim separate chapters4 ,since the second edition of this book appeared 7#aiaj71 some of the old houses have disappeared and many new ones of the highest class have been opened4 ,at all of them you can get1 besides ,french dishes1 such ,british specialties as turtle1 ox-tail1 and mulligatawny soups1 venison1 rabbit1 or veal and ham pies1 and1 with your fish and meats--hot or cold--all the fiery gherkins1 chow-chow1 and diverse pungent sauces and catsups you may desire4 ,while these sharp condiments are for the most part special products of ,british ingenuity which cannot be duplicated elsewhere1 it is likely that they will be less in demand in the future than they are now4 ,they were invented to go with cold meats chiefly1 and to give zest and varied ,flavor to the monotonously recurring joints4 ,but this monotony is disappearing2 the number of national dishes is multiplying rapidly2 and1 altogether1 there is now1 as a ,london journal has remarked1 a cult of cookery in ,england such as has never been before4 ,illustration3 ,burbanks ,home ,,xi ,,gastronomic ,,america ,in the preceding pages ,i have neglected no chance to expose our shortcomings1 not with any muck-raking intentions but in order to show in how many ways we could profit by following the example set by ,european nations4 ,it is now time to raise our flag and do a little patriotic boasting4 ,there is a gastronomic ,america as well as an ungastronomic ,america2 we have unequaled opportunities for producing the best of nearly everything1 and if we utilize those opportunities1 recognizing the all-importance of ,flavor in food1 in its various stages from the field to the grill and the table1 we can easily become1 within a few decades1 a leading--perhaps even the leading--gastronomic nation4 ,in the present chapter and the following one ,i purpose to dwell on some of the delicacies for the enjoyment of which at their best ,europeans must come to ,america4 ,,sweet ,,corn ,,and ,,corn ,,bread4 ,probably the most characteristically ,american thing a summer visitor from ,europe will see in our dining-rooms is the eating of green corn off the cob4 ,to be sure1 he might see the same thing in visiting the ,hindoos or ,south ,africans2 but they are imitators1 we the originators of this delectable habit4 ,in saying we ,i mean ,americans in the broadest sense of the word1 including the red ,indians4 ,it was they who first cultivated corn1 in the central part of our hemisphere4 ,from there it came north1 and ,columbus took it to ,europe1 whence it reached the other continents4 ,they call it maize in ,europe1 mealies in ,south ,africa4 ,in ,england corn means wheat1 in ,scotland oats1 those being their principal crops respectively4 ,in ,america the main crop still is1 as it was twenty centuries ago1 ,indian corn1 which therefore is of all things edible the most thoroughly ,american4 ,three cheers for corn6 ,in ,italy1 two-thirds of the rural population subsist mainly on corn1 which is1 however1 eaten nearly always as polenta 7mush71 alone or with cheese1 fish1 or meat2 whereas we have on our tables an almost endless variety of corn and corn products4 ,the red man set the example4 ,he ate green corn4 ,he made a mush of ripe corn1 pounding it1 either parched or unparched1 into a coarse meal4 ,he mixed it diversely with pumpkins1 nuts1 berries1 and other foods4 ,succotash is an ,indian name which we borrowed from him1 together with the dish it denotes--beans and unripe corn cooked together4 ,the site of ,montreal was once an ,indian cornfield4 ,in the dreadful winter of #afbj-ba the colonists in ,plymouth bought eight hogsheads of corne and beanes from the ,indians1 who taught them bothe ye manner how to set it and after how to dress and tend it4 ,yet the most imaginative ,indian could never have dreamt of how amazingly their successors on the soil would multiply the uses of corn1 for the table and for countless industrial uses4 ,we now have cook books concerned solely with corn foods4 ,mark ,twain's appetizing list of the ,american dishes he missed in ,europe1 to which reference was made in the first chapter of this book1 includes five made of corn3 pone1 hoe-cake1 green corn on the ear1 green corn cut from the ear and served with butter and pepper1 and hominy4 ,among those he surely would have mentioned also1 had he happened to recall their merits at the moment1 are samp1 gruel1 hulled corn1 or lye hominy1 ,indian pudding1 hasty pudding1 pop-corn1 succotash1 ,boston brown bread1 griddle cakes1 johnnycake1 mock oysters1 cream of corn1 ,kentucky corn dodgers1 and cornmeal gems4 ,welcome as all these specialties and many others are on ,american tables--fried mush and hominy are particularly to be commended to those who know not how tasty they are for breakfast1 or as a dinner course1 occasionally1 in place of the everlasting potatoes--none of them--not even genuine pone--is quite so luscious as green corn4 ,it may not be elegant to eat sweet corn off the cob1 but that is the only way to get its full ,flavor4 ,there is delicious fragrance in the juicy cob1 too1 and in the bosom of your family it is permissible 7and decidedly advisable7 to suck it4 ,sugar cane and oranges are not the only things that are best when sucked4 ,american horticultural ingenuity has achieved wonders in developing varieties of sweet corn with new refinements of ,flavor4 ,a few years ago ,c4 ,d4 ,keller1 of ,toledo1 ,ohio1 originated a new kind which he called the ,howling ,mob1 which peculiar but apt name1 in the words of ,mr4 ,burpee1 refers to the vociferous demand for the ears when ,mr4 ,keller takes them to market4 ,great1 indeed1 is the demand in ,american markets1 homes1 and hotels for green corn1 and much ingenuity has further been expended in rearing early and late varieties so as to make the season as long as possible4 ,between the early ,malakoff1 from ,siberia1 and the late ,country ,gentleman1 there are dozens of desirable varieties the characteristics of which are described in the catalogues of our seedsmen4 ,the last-named has long been considered the sweetest of all kinds1 but the new ,golden ,bantam is a formidable rival4 ,its color1 which makes it look like ordinary field corn1 is against it1 but those who have once tasted it1 sing its praises forevermore4 ,it is related that the ,rev4 ,sidney ,smith's parishioners did not want him to visit ,america for fear that the allurements of canvasback duck might tempt him to remain4 ,sweet corn1 also1 might have alienated his patriotic affections4 ,covent ,garden1 to be sure1 sometimes offers so-called green corn1 but ,england has too cool nights and not enough sunshine to develop the ,flavor of this vegetable4 ,even in ,america1 where it grows to perfection1 pains must be taken if one wants to get that ,flavor at its best4 ,all who have lived in the country agree with ,dr4 ,wiley's dictum that there is only one way to eat ,indian corn4 ,that is to go out just before sun-up and harvest the ears1 and have them boiled for early breakfast4 ,to people in cities who have never eaten freshly harvested ,indian corn1 such an experience would be a revelation4 ,not only do corn cobs that are kept a day or two before eating lose much of their precious fragrance1 but1 as the same eminent chemist informs us1 corn which is perfectly sweet and delicious at the moment of harvest1 has been found to lose half of its sugar within twenty-four hours4 ,those who find sweet corn indigestible do not know how to eat it4 ,if a sharp knife is pressed on each row of kernels the skin--which is the indigestible part--is cut and remains on the cob4 ,while the demand for sweet corn is ever on the increase and fortunes are made by those who grow or handle the best--that is1 the most agreeably flavored--sorts1 the foods made of ripe dried corn are not eaten so generally as they ought to be1 at least in the ,northern ,states4 ,it is desirable that everybody should know the interesting reason for the fact1 known to all1 that the ,south is more addicted than the ,north to the eating of dishes made of corn4 ,that reason is very simple3 corn bread in the ,south is made of meal which has more ,flavor than the meal sold in the ,northern ,states1 and is therefore more appetizing and wholesome4 ,why is its ,flavor better8 ,because it is made of ground corn from which only the indigestible hulls have been removed by bolting1 whereas in the making of meal for ,northern markets1 the millers remove also the germ which contains the fat and most of the ,flavor of corn1 besides its most important mineral contents4 ,they have contrived a diabolical machine known as the degerminator for the special purpose of bolting out the germs1 that is1 the very heart and soul1 of the corn4 ,if ,i add that1 in the words of ,dr4 ,charles ,d4 ,woods1 ,director of the ,maine ,agricultural ,experiment ,station from the manufacturer's standpoint the removal of the germ does not represent a loss1 as it is used for the manufacture of gluten feeds--so important for live stock--and corn oil1 which has many industrial uses and is used to some extent as a salad oil and as a culinary fat--the reader will begin to suspect one reason why the millers market cornmeal from which its most valuable constituent has been removed4 ,but there is another reason for this dastardly crime and that is that the germ lowers the keeping quality of the meal because its abundant fat easily becomes rancid4 ,in other words cornmeal made for sale in the ,north is denatured deliberately in order that the miller and the grocer may not run the risk of having a few sacks of it spoil on their hands occasionally6 ,the consumer is not considered at all4 ,ungastronomic ,america has meekly submitted to this outrage1 largely because the facts of the case are not generally known4 ,gastronomic ,americans1 whose numbers are increasing rapidly1 will insist on their rights1 refusing to buy cornmeal from which most of the ,flavor has been eliminated1 and the ,north will in time eat as much corn bread as the ,south4 ,personally1 ,i agree with those who think it even more tasty than wheat bread4 ,the only advantage wheat has is that1 with yeast or baking powder1 it can be made into a lighter and more porous loaf2 but this advantage can be neutralized by baking the corn bread in thin cakes2 and corn bread thus made is far more digestible than loaves of wheat bread as ordinarily made in ,america4 ,a good quality of it is also much more easily and more quickly made at home4 ,soldiers and campers prefer it1 partly for this reason4 ,it has been said1 writes ,dr4 ,woods1 that johnny cake is a corruption of journey cake1 and that corn bread was so called because it could be so easily prepared on the road4#ai ,,griddle ,,cakes ,,and ,,maple ,,syrup4 ,our breakfasts1 more than other meals1 are made delectable by diverse corn dishes4 ,corn flakes1 properly made are more flavorful than any others1 and of all the varieties of griddle cakes1 so dear to the ,american palate1 none quite equals those made of corn4 ,if these are at present seen less frequently on bills of fare than are wheat1 rice1 or buckwheat cakes1 it is because of the way in which cornmeal is usually deprived of what most appeals to the palate4 ,griddle cakes made of wheat are widely known as flannel cakes4 ,i have never eaten any woolen stuff1 but ,i imagine it might taste a good deal like the average flannel cake1 though it would be much lighter4 ,the ,french and ,german pancakes are far superior to our wheat cakes2 but even to these ,i prefer the ,american corn griddle cakes1 for which the whites of egg have been beaten stiff and added gradually2 and ,i bask in the proud consciousness that my preference is thoroughly patriotic4 ,the liking for buckwheat cakes is to me a mystery and always has been1 although as a boy ,i used to eat them with rich sausage gravy1 which made them palatable4 ,buckwheat cakes are not eaten so much as they used to be1 so maybe ,i am not alone in disliking them4 ,for the gratification of those who do like them ,i quote from the ,new ,york ,sun a characteristically ,american communication from ,middle ,aged3 ,i saw in a store window to-day a sign ,new ,buckwheat1 so ,i know people still eat buckwheat2 but ,i doubt if it is as much eaten as it was in years back1 say in the days when ,i was a youngster4 ,we always had buckwheat cakes for breakfast4 ,mother1 sometimes father1 used to stir the batter the night before in a curious tall1 round1 straight sided1 brown earthenware pot with a handle on it1 which was sacredly reserved for that purpose4 ,i have never seen anywhere at any time another pot just like that one2 and then it was set in just the right spot by the kitchen stove1 for the batter to rise through the night4 ,in the morning they thinned this batter out just a little with water and then they fried the cakes2 in our house on a long double griddle that covered two stove holes and on which you could cook two or three cakes at a time4 ,every morning in winter we had those buckwheat cakes1 light as a feather1 and with them we always had sausages or pork chops2 and such sausages and pork chops ,i have never seen since4 ,sausages1 not as you see them nowadays as big around as a cigar and filled with some sort of pasty material1 but big sausages stuffed with meat chopped coarse and that burst open when you fried them as if anxious to reveal to you their delightful1 savory richness--,i hope it is given to you to be able to recall such sausages2 and pork chops from pigs country raised on nearby farms1 a delight to the taste and always tender4 ,whichever we had that morning1 whether sausages or pork chops1 we ate the sausage or the pork chop gravy on the cakes4 ,really the recollection moves me4 ,my smiling mother--,heaven bless her6--never stinted me on the cakes2 she gave me all ,i could eat4 ,my father when ,i asked him for another sausage would sometimes ask me good-naturedly if ,i didn't think ,i had had enough2 but he always handed over the sausage4 ,and now1 if you won't think ,i am quite a pig1 ,i would like to say that ,i used to eat the last plate not with gravy but with butter and molasses on them2 later we came to have syrup4 ,and this sort of breakfast never did me any harm4 ,there is a popular delusion that the ostrich has the hardiest of all stomachs1 but really his would not for a moment bear comparison with that of the growing1 outdoors boy4 ,the serving of sausages and pork chops with griddle cakes is not so customary as it used to be2 usually the cakes1 whether wheat1 buckwheat1 rice1 or corn1 are now eaten with some kind of syrup4 ,the syrup served with our griddle cakes is as characteristically ,american as the cakes themselves1 or as the endless variety of cereal breakfast foods1 one or the other of which nearly every ,american eats daily1 with cream and sugar1 and which foreigners know nothing about4#bj ,strictly speaking1 a syrup is the direct product of the evaporation of the juice of a sugar-yielding plant or tree without the removal of any of the sugar1 whereas molasses is the saccharine product which is separated from sugar in the process of manufacture4 ,commercial syrup is usually a mixture of syrup1 molasses 7of which there are many grades7 and other things4 ,much of it is injurious to health1 and housewives who wish to see nothing unwholesome on their breakfast tables should read what ,dr4 ,wiley has to say on this subject1 on pp4 #dgb-dhb of his ,foods and ,their ,adulteration4 ,the sap of sugar cane and sorghum is usually good and safe1 besides being ,american4 ,even more so is the sap of the maple4 ,george ,washington and ,bret ,harte were not more thoroughly and exclusively ,american than is the ,acer saccharinum1 or sugar maple tree4 ,europe nor any other continent has aught to match it4 ,the sugar made from its sap is one of the delicacies discovered by the ,american ,indian4 ,the early white settlers learned from him how to make it1 and for many years it was the only sugar they had4 ,it was dark and ill-tasting compared with the best modern product4 ,in their appeal to the sense of taste all sweet syrups are alike4 ,it is their fragrance1 their ,flavor1 that makes us prefer some kinds to others4 ,the ,flavor of maple syrup has been much improved1 and is still being improved1 by perfecting the methods of tapping the tree1 gathering the sap1 boiling it1 and storing the sweet product4 ,uncle ,sam has not neglected this important branch of national gastronomic industry4 ,his chemists have been at work to ascertain the causes of the souring of the sap under certain conditions1 and to explain why the later runs do not have so pleasant a ,flavor as the earlier ones4 ,they have found it in the action of micro-organisms4 ,while ,i was writing this chapter ,i received from ,washington ,farmers' ,bulletin #eaf1 a brochure of #df pages in which the making of maple syrup and sugar is fully discussed1 with detailed directions for securing the best-flavored product4#ba ,as in the making of butter1 many things have to be done and many avoided to get the best results1 but they are worth the trouble4 ,the demand for genuine maple sugar is great1 and would be much greater still if adulteration were not so much practised4 ,in #aiaj1 according to the ,u4 ,s4 ,census ,reports1 the maple syrup production of the country was #d1ajf1dah gallons1 and in addition to this there were made over #ad1jjj1jjj pounds of maple sugar4 ,in that year ,ohio led all the ,states in the production of maple syrup1 followed by ,new ,york1 ,vermont1 ,pennsylvania1 ,indiana1 ,michigan1 ,wisconsin1 and ,new ,hampshire4 ,in many other ,states it can be made in paying quantities4 ,farmers are advised to attend to this industry as a source of extra income4 ,in the ,bulletin just referred to1 attention is called to two important economic considerations3 ,the season of production comes at a time of the year when little or no other work can be done on the farm1 thus allowing the aid of the family and farm help for the boiling and manufacture4 ,moreover1 since the sugar bushes as a general rule are situated on hilly country that would not be suitable for any other crop1 these two items could hardly be placed at a high value in a table of costs4 ,every farmer who lives in a ,state and region where the sugar maple prospers should secure ,bulletin #eaf through his representative in ,washington4 ,by attending strictly to the matter of delicate ,flavor1 not only can the industry be enormously increased at home but foreign markets can easily be won4 ,adulteration must1 however1 be severely curbed4 ,under present conditions ,american epicures do not put their faith in grocers but get their annual supplies early every year direct from the producer4 ,it is best when freshly made1 and unless put in cans and sealed while still hot it gradually loses its ,flavor4 ,syrup made of dissolved maple sugar is often used1 but it is less delicately flavored than that which is made at once from the sap4 ,illustration3 ,the sugar bush4 ,many a time have ,i thanked ,heaven that ,i was brought up in the country4 ,how ,i pity those persons who1 in the days of their youth1 had no chance to kneel before an ,acer saccharinum1 as ,i did in my ,missouri days 7only a few miles from ,mark ,twain's birthplace1 by the way7 and drink in the nectar as it trickled through the spout into my mouth4 ,it was more glorious even than it was some years later to suck fresh ,oregon cider from a barrel through a straw4 ,,apple ,,pie ,,and ,,cranberries4 ,is pie as thoroughly ,american as maple syrup1 griddle cakes1 and corn bread8 ,an ,american is likely to answer ,yes1 while an ,englishman might say ,no4 ,in the ,english ,who's ,who the recreations of most of the eminent men and women of the time in ,europe and ,america are referred to4 ,had ,thophile ,gautier lived to be included in that volume1 he would have probably named among his favorite recreations reading the dictionary1 to which he is said to have been much addicted4 ,i could never quite see the fun of this diversion till ,i made the acquaintance of ,murray's wonderful ,oxford dictionary1 which traces the meaning and history of every word back through the centuries4 ,nothing1 surely1 could be more interesting1 for instance1 than to read in this work that the first reference to apple pie1 so far as known1 was as far back as #aeij1 when ,greene1 in his ,arcadia1 wrote the line3 ,thy breath is like the steame of apple-pyes--thus proving himself1 as ,i may add1 an epicure as well as a poet and a lover4 ,on another page we read3 ,the pie appears to have been at first of meat or fish2 doubtful or undefined uses appear in #afth century2 fruit pies 7also called1 especially in the north of ,england and ,ireland1 in ,scotland1 and often in the ,united ,states1 tarts7 appear before #afjj1 the earliest being ,apple-,pie4 ,were these apple pyes the same as the ,american apple pie of our day8 ,i doubt it4 ,if they had been1 the ,britons of our time certainly would make the same kind1 but they don't4 ,their substitute for our fruit pie is the tart1 which has only one crust and is otherwise different4 ,even if it could be proved that we got our fruit pie from ,england1 shape1 contents1 and all1 ,i still would claim it as a national ,american dish--,american by right of conquest1 improvement1 and countrywide use4 ,millions of ,american families eat it daily1 at lunch or at dinner4 ,the poet ,emerson even ate it at breakfast1 and when a guest refused it1 he was surprised and exclaimed3 ,what is pie for8 ,you can make a fruit pie in the ,american style in ,great ,britain or on the ,continent1 but you cannot duplicate its excellence1 for the simple reason that ,european fruit is rarely as tasty as ,american fruit4 ,it must be admitted that in the making of a light1 digestible crust most ,american cooks could learn a lesson from foreign pastry cooks1 who would advise them1 among other things1 to partly bake the lower crust or glaze it with white of egg before the fruit is put in4 ,but1 after all1 the ,flavor of the fruit is the all-important thing1 and in that the ,american pie is supreme4 ,the ,rev4 ,henry ,ward ,beecher1 in his eloquent sermon on apple pie1 exclaimed3 ,but1 oh6 be careful of the paste6 ,let it be not like putty1 nor rush to the other extreme and make it so flaky that one holds his breath while eating1 for fear of blowing it away4 ,let it not be plain as bread1 yet not rich like cake4 ,has ever an ,english divine paid such attention to pie8 ,no2 the apple pie is ours1 as much as our flag4 ,but alack and alas1 the apple pie is often insulted and maltreated in its own bailiwick by being over-seasoned4 ,beecher called attention to the fact that it will accept almost every flavor of every spice1 and he mentioned nutmeg1 cinnamon1 and lemon as among those which it is permissible to use4 ,permissible1 yes1 but most inadvisable4 ,you may say it is a matter of taste1 and that you have a right to put as much nutmeg1 cinnamon1 or lemon extract into your pie or your apple sauce as you please4 ,if you make it for yourself and your family1 yes2 but not if you make it for a restaurant4 ,the spices named are penetrating and monopolistic2 even in small quantities they obliterate the natural ,flavor of the apple1 or at least modify it in a way obnoxious to those true epicures who like their fruit dishes au naturel1 just as they like prime cuts of butcher's meats without obtrusive sauces1 and sausage mild-flavored1 without the screaming sage or too much pepper4 ,nutmeg is the spice with which our apple pie is most frequently alloyed4 ,an alloy is defined as anything that reduces purity or excellence4 ,if you put nutmeg into apple pie or sauce1 you make it taste always the same1 be it made of ,european or ,american fruit or of this or that variety of apples4 ,now1 to an epicure the best thing about apple pie or sauce is that when served without spice it retains the peculiar ,flavor of the kind of apple it is made from4 ,to go to your grocer and buy cooking apples is almost as bad as to ask for cooking butter4 ,the best butter and the best apples should always be used in the kitchen--if you can afford to buy them4 ,if you cannot1 eat oatmeal and prunes4 ,to those who have refined palates it makes a world of difference whether their apple pie and sauce are made of cooking apples or of ,gravensteins1 ,red ,astrachans1 ,newtown ,pippins1 or ,spitzenbergs4 ,each variety--and dozens of others might be named--has its own special charm2 and the same is true of pies and sauces made of other fruits4 ,in the baking of pumpkin pie1 which1 next to that made of apples1 is perhaps the most characteristically ,american pie1 mace 7which is derived from the covering of the nutmeg seed7 or some other spice1 is not only permissible but commendable2 while mince pie1 which we borrowed from the ,english but eat probably oftener than they do1 is such a jumble of condiments--sugar1 raisins1 currants1 almonds1 apples1 lemon and orange juice and peel1 molasses1 suet1 quince jelly1 and other things ad libitum--that it makes little difference what you add in the way of mace1 cloves1 cinnamon1 ginger1 or other spices within reason4 ,time was when caraway seeds1 saffron1 rosewater1 ambergris1 and other impossible things were added4 ,as made now1 mince pie is as agreeable to most palates as it is indigestible4 ,i am told it can be made so as to be easily digestible1 but ,i hae ma doots4 ,some years ago mince pie was dignified by being made the subject of a political squabble in ,washington4 ,dr4 ,wiley wanted a definition of normal mincemeat1 and thirty manufacturers were summoned to testify4 ,evidently some of these manufacturers were making mincemeat without the chopped meat which is an essential ingredient of the best home-made article1 for they engaged a trained lexicographer1 ,prof4 ,c4 ,d4 ,childs1 of the ,university of ,pennsylvania1 to prepare a treatise on mince pie1 in which it was demonstrated that mincemeat does not necessarily contain meat4 ,the definition in ,murray's ,oxford ,dictionary is a mixture made of currants1 raisins1 sugar1 suet1 apples1 almonds1 candied peel1 etc41 and sometimes meat chopped small2 used in mince pies2 which shows that in ,england1 also1 meat is not always an ingredient4 ,it is only fair to consumers1 however1 that the law should compel the manufacturers to print the ingredients in each case on the label4 ,mince pie with meat is certainly better than mince pie without4 ,perhaps ,i erred in saying that pumpkin pie is1 next to apple pie1 the most characteristic ,american pastry dish4 ,it certainly is not more so than cranberry pie4 ,the cranberry is not exclusively ,american1 like maple syrup1 terrapin1 and canvasback duck1 for it grows in some parts of ,europe2 but it remained for ,american epicures to discover its rare gastronomic merits4 ,it took genius to do this1 for in its natural wild state the berry is excessively astringent and acid4 ,but it had a ,flavor that made an irresistible appeal and invited further cultivation4 ,particularly agreeable is the ,oxycoccus erythrocarpus1 a variety which grows in the mountains of ,virginia and ,georgia4 ,the ,european berries1 though they used to be abundant in ,england1 were neglected because of their inferior ,flavor1 and ,england now imports cranberries in large quantities from the ,united ,states1 as do ,france1 ,italy1 and ,germany1 chiefly for tarts4 ,cape ,cod is now the chief camping ground of the cranberry4 ,it has been doubled in size by cultivation1 and its ,flavor improved by enriching and draining the soil1 and in other ways4 ,the annual production is about three million bushels4 ,thanks to the growing demand for them1 bog lands which were worth #e an acre now sell at #cjj to #gjj per acre4 ,the darker the berry the richer the flavor4 ,once upon a time ,i wrote a book on ,romantic ,love and ,personal ,beauty in which ,i tried to prove that brunettes are more beautiful than blondes4 ,i am not sure that ,i succeeded--there are certainly some ravishing exceptions6--but in the matter of foods there can be no doubt that as a rule the dark are finer than the light colored4 ,does not ,boston1 the center of ,american culture1 give its name to brown bread1 and does not ,boston prefer dark eggs to the anemic white ones favored in ,new ,york8 ,does any one who has had the good sense to buy rusty oranges and grapefruit deny that they are sweeter and more fragrant than the light yellow ones8 ,ask any epicure if he does not think the second joint of a fowl is more savory than the white meat4 ,bread which has a deep brown crust is more tasty than pale crumb4 ,crackers toasted brown are more appetizing than crackers untoasted4 ,english rusks1 ,german zwieback1 ,italian breadsticks1 are they not all brunettes8 ,do not all vegetables1 fruits1 and berries darken as they ripen and develop their flavor8 ,the darkest cranberries therefore are the ones you want to buy4 ,and be sure that your cook in preparing cranberry sauce or jelly presses the pulp through a sieve to remove the indigestible skins4 ,it is only when they are cooked whole and candied with an equal weight of sugar that the skins may be left on them4 ,,turkeys1 ,,guinea ,,fowl1 ,,and ,,game4 ,cranberry sauce is in ,america associated inseparably with turkey1 and the turkey is another of our gastronomic specialties4 ,benjamin ,franklin argued that the turkey--which is surely a finer bird than the eagle1 less vicious1 and infinitely more useful--should have been adopted as the emblem of the ,united ,states1 for it is a truly indigenous and national bird4 ,in ,franklin's day the log cabin of the pioneer was surrounded by these birds1 saluting each other in the early morning from the treetops4 ,those were gala times for hunters and epicures1 when wild turkeys used to fly in flocks of hundreds6 ,they owe their name to the notion1 once current1 that they came to ,europe from ,asia4 ,but it is now established beyond doubt that they are aboriginal ,americans4 ,it did not take the ,spaniards long to find out their value1 for1 little more than a quarter of a century after ,columbus discovered this ,continent1 they took some of the birds across the sea to their own country and thence the turkey soon made its way to other parts of ,europe4 ,records show that in ,england1 in #aeda1 the turkey was enumerated among the dainties1 while in #aegc it had become the customary fare of the farmer4 ,the turkey is beyond doubt one of the finest presents the ,new ,world has made the ,old1 wrote the best-known of ,french epicures1 ,brillat-,savarin2 and in his ,physiologie du ,gout he has a chapter in which he proudly relates how he shot one of these birds4 ,it was in #agid2 he was visiting a friend at ,hartford1 ,connecticut1 who took him out hunting one day1 after having treated him on the previous evening to a dinner one course of which consisted of the entirely ,american corned beef1 which the eminent epicure found splendid4 ,they shot some fat tender partridges and seven gray squirrels1 which are highly esteemed in this country2 then he had his chance at the turkey1 bagged it1 took it back to ,hartford and had it cooked for some guests who kept exclaiming3 ,very good6 ,exceedingly good6 ,oh1 dear sir1 what a glorious bit4 ,illustration3 ,,brillat-,,savarin ,though he had a high opinion of his own judgment in matters gastronomic1 ,brillat-,savarin was much pleased when a friend of his1 ,m4 ,bose1 who lived in ,carolina1 contributed to the ,annales d',agriculture of ,feb4 #bh1 #ahba1 an article which confirmed his own judgment as to the superiority of the ,american turkey to the bird as reared in ,france1 attributing this superiority to the fact that the ,american turkey roamed the woods freely and thus gained a finer ,flavor than the domesticated bird has4 ,unfortunately1 it took ,american poultry raisers several generations to realize the full significance of this fact4 ,all was well so long as there were plenty of wild turkeys1 the flesh of which was of perfect savor1 especially during the autumn1 when they lived largely on pecan nuts4 ,all was well1 too1 so long as the farms were few and scattered1 and there was interbreeding of wild and domesticated birds4 ,but the time came when the turkeys degenerated1 owing to excessive inbreeding and too close confinement4 ,it is only within a few years that farmers have begun to heed the advice that it is better to send a thousand miles for a new male than to risk the chances of inbreeding1 and to restore to the turkey his forest freedom4 ,while our present-day turkeys are classed as 'domestic fowls1 they are rather semi-domestic when compared with other poultry1 writes ,t4 ,f4 ,mc,grew4#bb ,it is this semi-game quality of the best turkeys that make them so dear to the epicure4 ,brillat-,savarin's verdict is that the turkey1 though not the most tender1 is the most tasty of all the farm fowls1--and few will disagree with him4 ,for the benefit of the rapidly growing number of farmers who increase their income by raising turkeys1 ,i will cite the words of an expert which sum up the philosophy of the subject3 ,the flavor of all turkeys raised by careful farmers within five or six years is much finer than in the run down stock raised by old fogy farmers4 ,the improvement in flavor has also been accompanied by an increase in size and tenderness4 ,this is due to the admixture of the strain from wild turkeys from ,canada and the ,south and the ,southwest and to the modern system of keeping the birds out of doors as much as possible and giving them opportunities for getting plenty of mast and the seeds of wild and cultivated plants and pure water from brooks and streams kept clear from noxious plants and sewage4 ,birds thus reared bring fancy prices--a point to which ,i shall recur in the next chapter under ,feeding ,flavor ,into ,food4 ,it has been customary for a long time for patriotic persons to send to the ,president of the ,united ,states choice turkeys for the ,thanksgiving and ,christmas dinners4 ,woodrow ,wilson received one in ,december1 #aiab1 from ,kentucky which weighed forty-three pounds and had been nurtured as befits a ,king ,gobbler1 on sweet chestnuts1 with celery and pepper to improve its ,flavor4 ,the ,guinea fowl is another bird which must roam wild to do well1 and which consequently has a gamy ,flavor1 like the semi-domestic turkey4 ,though not an aboriginal ,american1 it has become acclimated4 ,it is an ,african cousin of the turkey4 ,in his useful treatise on ,the ,guinea ,fowl and ,its ,use as ,food 7,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #bcd71 ,dr4 ,langworthy states that in ,jamaica and some other regions the ,guinea birds have gone back to their wild state and are hunted in their season as game birds4 ,they are also well known as game birds in ,england1 where large flocks are sometimes kept in game preserves4 ,on the continent they are more domesticated and are raised in large numbers for the markets of ,france1 ,austria1 and ,germany4 ,what we want in our markets1 however1 is not the domesticated ,guinea fowl so much as the half-wild4 ,we have plenty of other good barnyard birds1 including the savory squab1 but we are woefully short of game1 and the ,guinea fowl1 more than the turkey1 comes to the rescue4 ,while the mature bird has its own gamy ,flavor1 the chicks resemble young quail1 and the eggs are a good deal like the highly valued plover eggs4 ,even the domesticated birds retain a surprising number of their wild traits and on this bird1 therefore1 we may have to depend largely for our game of the future4 ,to the deplorable condition of our present game market ,i referred briefly in the chapter on ,germany1 where they do things so much better4 ,in ,new ,york1 quail 7so abundant until a few years ago7 are now imported from far-away ,egypt1 and grouse from ,scotland1 while prices have gone up like rockets4 ,in ,louisiana alone it was computed that over #d1bfe1jjj game birds were killed in the season #aiji-aiaj4 ,mrs4 ,russell ,sage's generous gift of #aej1jjj secured ,marsh ,island as a refuge for the wild fowl4 ,others have helped the cause1 and the ,government's efforts are thus summed up in ,circular ,no4 #hg of the ,bureau of ,biological ,survey3 ,for purposes of administration the bird reservations are grouped in six districts3 7#a7 ,the ,gulf district1 including #aj reservations in ,florida1 #d in ,louisiana1 and #a in ,porto ,rico2 7#b7 the ,lake district1 including #b in ,michigan1 #b in ,north ,dakota1 and #a in ,wisconsin2 7#c7 the ,mountain district1 including #ab in the ,rocky ,mountain ,states1 ,south ,dakota1 and ,nebraska2 7#d7 the ,pacific district1 including #c in ,california1 #d in ,oregon1 and #h in ,washington2 7#e7 the ,alaska district1 including #h reservations2 and 7#f7 the ,hawaiian district1 including #a reservation4 ,wardens are stationed on the more important reservations and the ,national ,association of ,audubon ,societies 444 coperates actively with the ,department of ,agriculture in protecting the birds4 ,there is a special periodical1 the ,gamebreeders' ,magazine1 devoted to the task of replenishing our stock of wild animals1 which was for so many generations one of the chief assets of ,gastronomic ,america4 ,there are also ,breeders' ,associations which are planning to make ,american game1 feathered and unfeathered1 abundant once more4 ,no one can ever bring back the large flocks of wild turkeys1 the pigeons that darkened the skies1 the herds of countless buffaloes2 but we can at least bring back in part our former abundance of some kinds of game by following ,european methods4 ,the ,government is also ready to help by supplying1 without charge1 birds to be liberated and allowed to multiply in various places4 ,our native birds are1 of course1 best adapted for this purpose1 but what can be done with imported birds is shown in ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #cij1 in which ,henry ,oldys of the ,biological ,survey tells the interesting story of how the ,chinese and ,english pheasants have been made to feel at home in ,oregon and in other ,states1 where they have become permanent additions to the game list4 ,deer ,farming in the ,united ,states is another valuable ,farmers' ,bulletin 7,no4 #ccj71 by ,d4 ,e4 ,lantz4 ,its object is thus summed up3 ,as a result of the growing scarcity of game animals in this country the supply of venison is wholly inadequate to the demand1 and the time seems opportune for developing the industry of deer farming1 which may be made profitable alike to the ,state and the individuals engaged therein4 ,the raising of venison for market is as legitimate a business as the growing of beef and mutton1 and ,state laws1 when prohibitory1 as many of them are1 should be so modified as to encourage the industry4 ,furthermore1 deer and elk may be raised to advantage in forests and on rough1 brushy ground unfitted for either agriculture or stock raising1 thus utilizing for profit much land that is now waste4 ,an added advantage is that the business is well adapted to landowners of small means4 ,mr4 ,lantz is convinced that1 with favorable legislation1 this excellent and nutritious meat1 instead of being denied to #ii per cent4 of the population of the country1 may become as common and as cheap in our markets as mutton4 ,,lobsters1 ,,scallops1 ,,crabs1 ,,and ,,fishes4 ,every inch an ,american is the ,homarus ,americanus4 ,there are not so many inches of him as there used to be1 but that makes him none the less precious4 ,the ,pilgrim lobsters five or six feet long1 ascribed to ,new ,york ,bay in the days of ,olaus ,magnus1 are now classed as a myth1 but four-foot lobsters 7measured from the tip of the claws to the end of the tail7 have been caught4 ,such a giant weighs about thirty-four pounds4 ,the ,american lobster was originally found only on the eastern coast of ,north ,america4 ,these lobster grounds some seven thousand miles1 including the curves of the shore1 were the finest the world has ever seen4 ,in ,canada alone a hundred million lobsters have been captured in a year4 ,in one respect the lobster differs strangely from other creatures of sea and land4 ,like the eel1 he is a scavenger of the deep1 but while the eel is often offensive to the taste because of this feeding habit1 the lobster is always sweet4 ,nothing could be more offensive to the human nostril1 writes ,dr4 ,francis ,hobart ,herrick1#bc than the netted balls of slack-salted1 semi-decomposing herring1 which are commonly used as bait on the coast and islands of ,maine1 but by the wonderful chemical processes which are continually going on in the laboratory of its body1 the lobster is able to transmute such products of organic decay into the most delicate and palatable flesh4 ,were it not for this alchemistic marvel the most plutocratic restaurants in the ,united ,states1 especially those which cater to the persons who sup after the theater1 would never have become known as ,lobster ,palaces4 ,the lobster served in these places1 plain boiled1 broiled1 la ,newburg1 and in other ways1 is one of those characteristic ,american foods which foreign epicures not only envy but enjoy1 though they cannot have our crustaceans as fresh as we do4 ,it has been well said that the story of the lobster in its progress from the fisherman's pots on the ,maine coast to the grills and silver chafing-dishes on ,broadway is the whole story in miniature of the high cost of living under an artificial economic condition4 ,the lobsterman gets a little over ten cents a pound4 ,the wholesaler doubles the price1 the retailer trebles it1 and in the end the restaurant-keeper marks it up #a1jjj per cent4 above the first cost1 charging patrons #a4ej a portion for what the lobsterman was paid a tenth of that sum4 ,to this extortion ,i1 for one1 refuse to submit4 ,in the market you can buy a lobster for one quarter to one-third the price charged in most restaurants4 ,you can make sure he is alive--never buy a dead lobster1 though they say he is safe to eat if his tail is curled and springs back when pulled4 ,to kill him by plunging him in boiling water may seem cruel1 but is no more so than other ways1 and is certainly infinitely less so than the usual way--which should be forbidden--of letting him perish slowly in a barrel1 or on ice4 ,canned lobster is a food a wise man avoids1 though1 to be sure1 he runs perhaps no greater risk in eating it than in consuming many other things1 tinned or untinned4 ,millions of dollars' worth of canned lobsters1 crabs1 and salmon are eaten every year4 ,a new ,american delicacy hails from ,canada3 lobster rarebit1 a compound of certain parts of the lobster which had previously been thrown away as waste by the canners4 ,the annual output of canned lobster by the ,eastern ,provinces of ,canada now amounts to about ten million cans1 worth about #c1jjj1jjj4 ,lobster rarebit1 which is said to be a highly appetizing delicacy1 easily digested and nourishing may1 it is believed1 in time equal the money value of canned lobsters4 ,consul ,frank ,deedmeyer1 of ,charlottetown1 gave these details at the time when lobster rarebit was first introduced3 ,canned lobster1 as known to the trade1 consists of the meat taken from the claws and the tail4 ,the whole of the body proper is now rejected by the packers1 and it has heretofore been used in the maritime ,provinces of ,canada as a fertilizer4 ,in the rejected portion is found a crescent-shaped meaty layer to which the tail is attached and the liver4 ,lobster rarebit is a compound of this meaty layer1 of the liver1 and of the roe1 to which some spice is added4 ,the first named of the components used is the fattest part of the crustacean2 the liver1 glandular1 is large and retains a high percentage of bile4 ,the number of eggs found in a lobster is estimated from #e1jjj to #dj1jjj1 according to size4 ,the three ingredients are mixed in these proportions3 ,six-tenths meat1 three-tenths liver1 and one-tenth roe4 ,while the efforts to propagate the ,atlantic lobster have met with scant success on the ,pacific ,coast there are other marine delicacies to console those who dwell on the shore from ,southern ,california to ,washington and ,british ,columbia2 among them the abalone of ,catalina1 which makes delicious soup1 the razor clam and monster specimens of other clams in ,washington waters1 oysters1 huge crabs1 and above all1 crawfish4 ------------------------ ,,all ,,potatoes ,,served ,,will ,,be ,,charged ,,for ------------------------ ,,monday1 ,,january #f1 #aiac ,,soups ,mock turtle #cj ,chicken1 creole #be ,scotch broth #be ,cream of asparagus #be ,consomme1 duchesse #be ,paysanne #be ,tomato #be ,mutton #be ,consomme1 hot or cold #be cup #ae ,oyster #be ,clam chowder #be ,,fish ,,ready ,boiled live codfish1 oyster sauce #dj ,,oysters ,lynnhavens #cj ,blue ,points ,buzzards ,bays ,cotults ,on the shell #be ,oyster cocktail #cj ,fried in batter #ej ,pan roast #dj ,roast in shell #dj ,escaloped in shell #dj ,stewed #cj ,fried #dj ,box stew #dj ,astor ,house oyster flip #dj ,au gratin #ej ,pickled #cj ,steamed #dj ,broiled #dj ,,clams ,little-,neck clams stewed #cj steamed #ce clam cocktail #cj clams roasted #dj fried #dj on shell #be ,clam broth #be ,clam fritters #dj ,soft shell clams1 steamed #ce ,,shell ,,fish ,plain lobster #ij ,lobster croquettes #ge ,deviled lobster #ge ,lobster la ,newburg #a #jj ,broiled lobster #a #jj ,baked lobster1 stuffed #ge ,,chicken ,,patty #dj ,,fried ,,scallops #ej ,,oyster ,,patty #ce ,,with ,,bacon #fj ,,deep ,,sea ,,scallops ,,with ,,bacon #ej ,,entrees ,beef a la mode1 bourgeoise #dj ,fricassee of veal with mushrooms #ej ,whole spring chicken en casserole1 asparagus tips #a #ej ,irish stew with vegetables #dj ,loin of fresh pork1 apple sauce #ej ,lobster patties1 ,maryland #fj ,calf's head1 vinaigrette #ej ,apple fritters1 rum sauce #cj ,,roast ,beef #ej ,leg of mutton #dj ,roast beef sandwich1 hot #de ,lamb1 mint sauce #ge ,suckling pig1 apple sauce #ej ,filet of beef #gj ,ham1 ,champagne sauce #ej ,turkey1 cranberry sauce #fe ,philadelphia chicken1 half #ge ,pork1 apple sauce #ej ,,boiled ,corned beef and cabbage #dj ,mutton1 caper sauce #dj ,,vegetables ,,and ,,relishes ,fried sweet potatoes #bj ,potatoes1 boiled #aj baked #aj mashed #aj julienne #bj ,french fried #ae ,onions1 boiled #ae ,spinach #bj ,macaroni1 plain #ae au gratin #be napolitaine #bj la ,montgelas #cj ,olives #bj ,new string beans #cj ,stewed tomatoes #ae ,beets #ae ,fried eggplant #cj ,cold slaw #bj ,radishes #aj ,celery #be ,french peas1 naturel #cj ,french string beans #cj ,succotash #bj ,mashed turnips #aj ,cabbage #ae ,cauliflower #cj au gratin #dj ,french artichokes #ej ,canned asparagus #cj ,lima beans #be sweet corn #bj green peas #be string beans #be ,fonds d'artichauts farcis #ge ,pin-money pickles #aj ,pickled onions #bj ,pickled ,english walnuts #be ,chow chow #aj ,stuffed mangoes #ae ,chili sauce #aj ,chutney sauce #ae ,cigars ,served in ,sealed ,envelopes with ,price ,marked ,thereon ,,to ,,order ,small steak #fj ,sirloin steak #a #aj ,extra sirloin steak #b #jj ,small tenderloin steak #fj ,porterhouse steak #a #ej ,squab guinea-hen #a #ge half #ij ,english mutton chop #ej ,mutton chops #dj ,sweetbreads #ge ,philadelphia chicken broiled1 half #ge ,squab #ge ,jumbo squab #ij ,stuffed squab #a #jj ,,cold ,roast beef #ej ,ham #dj ,pork #dj ,corned beef #dj ,tongue #dj ,lamb #ge ,roast turkey #fj ,half roast chicken #ge ,veal #dj ,leg of mutton #dj ,baked pork and beans #ce ,pate de foie-gras #a #jj ,lamb's tongue #dj ,sardines #dj ,crackers and milk #bj ,crackers and half and half #cj ,crackers and cream #dj ,rice and milk1 bowl #be ,rice and cream1 bowl #dj ,graham wafers and milk #be half and half #ce ,,salads ,lobster #ge ,chicken #fj ,celery #dj ,potato #be ,chicory #dj ,watercress #cj ,shrimp #ej ,spanish or ,bermuda onion #cj ,lettuce #be ,romaine #be ,cucumber #be ,tomato #be ,escarole #dj ,mixed 7#b7 kinds #dj 7#c7 #ej ,,puddings ,,and ,,pies ,english plum pudding1 hard and brandy sauce #be ,apple tapioca pudding1 claret sauce #ae ,steamed plum dumpling1 rum sauce #ae ,peach pie #ae ,pumpkin pie #ae ,apple pie #ae ,boston cream puffs #aj ,mince pie #bj ,cold corn starch pudding #ae ,hot or cold rice pudding #ae ,snow pudding #ae ,,sweet ,,dishes ,rice cake #aj ,wine cake #aj with ice cream #be ,cream cake #aj ,charlotte russe #ae ,cream meringue #ae ,macaroon glace #cj ,meringue glacee #be ,meringue panachee #cj ,ice cream1 strawberry #bj coffee #bj vanilla #bj chocolate #bj ,french #be ,neapolitan #be ,biscuit ,tortoni #cj ,nesselrode #cj ,lemon water ice #bj ,roman punch #be ,siberian punch #be ,blanc mange #ae ,honey in comb #bj ,currant jelly #bj ,farina jelly with cream #bj ,champagne jelly #be ,soft vanilla custard #ae ,soft vanilla custard frozen #be ,cup custard #ae ,brandy peaches #ej ,bar-le-,duc jelly #dj ,banana jelly #bj ,brandy jelly #bj ,orange jelly #bj ,tarts #aj ,,cheese ,swiss #ae ,cream #bj ,camembert #bj ,roquefort #be ,imperial #ae ,neufchatel #ae ,english #ae ,brie #bj ,,fruit ,grapefruit #dj half #be ,malaga grapes #be ,concord grapes #be ,baked apples cream1 each #ae ,oranges1 each #aj ,apples1 each #aj ,bananas1 each #aj ,apple sauce #ae ,pear #aj ,stewed prunes #ae ,stewed rhubarb #ae ,preserved figs #cj with cream #dj ,,tea1 ,,coffee ,,etc4 ,cup of coffee #aj with cream #ae ,pot of coffee #be ,demi-tasse coffee #aj ,pot of chocolate #be ,pot of cocoa #be ,cup of tea #aj ,pot of green tea #bj ,pot of ,oolong tea #bj ,pot of ,japan tea #bj ,pot of ,english breakfast tea #bj ,pots of tea with cream #be ,glass of milk #aj ,glass of cream #bj ,buttermilk #aj ,lunch ,bill of ,fare of a ,popular ,new ,york ,restaurant ,in ,oregon1 the crawfish abounds in creeks and rivers1 varying in size with the volume of the river4 ,one of my favorite amusements as a boy used to be to sit on the bank of a creek taking care of several lines1 to the ends of which were tied pieces of meat4 ,no net was needed2 the crustaceans were so abundant and so hungry that they refused to let go when lifted out of the water1 and often ,i landed six or more fastened to the same piece of meat4 ,our favorite picnics were those for which we took along no food--only a kettle and a handful of salt4 ,the crawfish did the rest4 ,they are more tender and succulent than lobsters1 and even more delicate in flavor4 ,st4 ,louis disputes with ,portland the honor of being the greatest crawfish-eating center in the ,united ,states4 ,the ,mississippi ,river crawfish has made ,st4 ,louis famous among epicures4 ,until a few years ago1 the ,republic of that city informs us1 the waters around ,st4 ,louis on every side fairly swarmed with this fresh-water relation of the lobster4 ,every pond1 slough1 and back water was full of them4 ,all the creeks and pools were their homes4 ,their little mud 'chimneys' dotted the creek bottoms and lined the banks of the ponds and sloughs4 ,hundreds of joyous ,st4 ,louisans struck out for the open on every holiday1 armed with a pole1 a few pieces of liver1 and a dip net1 bent on their capture4 ,they caught so many that they brought them in by the sackful4 ,thousands of the little crustaceans were eaten every day of the season4 ,from ,april until after the snowfalls of ,november every real ,st4 ,louisan ate a few crawfish every week4 ,in #aiaj this abundance had diminished to such an extent that a mandate was issued by the ,state ,fish and ,game officials which put a stop to angling in the city's waters4 ,the crawfish multiplies so rapidly1 however1 that it will doubtless soon replenish the waters1 and once more there will be parts of ,st4 ,louis and other cities where the evening air will be laden with the unmistakable odor of boiling crawfish4 ,of the great variety of crabs peculiar to our waters the one which most appeals to epicures is the soft shell1 which1 when very soft1 is eaten skin1 bones1 and all4 ,but wait--there is another kind1 still more delicate and toothsome--the oyster crab4 ,it dwells within the mantle chamber and feeds on the juices of the oyster4 ,no wonder it tastes good4 ,fortunately1 it is not one of the many enemies of the bivalve1 being quite harmless4 ,its scarcity1 combined with its diminutive size1 makes it a luxury comparable to the old ,roman millionaire's dish of nightingale tongues4 ,a foreigner looking at an ,american bill of fare is struck first of all by the number of ways in which oysters are listed3 raw1 stewed1 fried1 steamed1 baked in the shell1 scalloped1 creamed1 and so on2 and by the fact that the locality from which the oysters that are served raw are supposed to come is named--,blue ,point1 ,shrewsbury1 ,rockaway1 ,buzzard's ,bay1 ,cape ,cod1 ,norfolk1 ,saddle ,rock1 etc4 ,in this matter there is1 to be sure1 much deception4 ,it has become customary1 in particular1 to give the name of ,blue ,point to any small oyster1 and to call any kind of large size a ,saddle ,rock2 while many a worthless floated oyster masquerades under the name of the juicy and delicious ,lynnhaven4 ,the oyster cracker1 and the soda cracker in general1 is an ,american specialty which ,europeans will doubtless adopt some day as tasty1 nutritious and easily digested additions to the dietary4 ,as sold now1 in dust and moisture-proof packages1 they will easily find their way to foreign stomachs4 ,clam chowder1 steamed soft clams1 and raw ,littlenecks are among the delicacies an ,american misses in ,europe4 ,as for our scallop1 ,paderewski thinks it is the best edible thing ,america produces4 ,many other epicures doubtless agree with him4 ,as seen in our markets the scallop is simply the abductor muscle of the bivalve4 ,the remainder of the body is thrown away or used as fertilizer1 though much of it is tender and of fine ,flavor4 ,nor is this wastefulness the only cause for complaint4 ,the best scallops are small2 they are expensive1 and the dealers1 knowing that by soaking them they can bloat a pint of them till they fill a quart1 subject them to this freshening1 which as thoroughly takes all the marine ,flavor out of them as floating takes it out of the oyster4 ,in this condition1 too1 they spoil sooner and become dangerous to eat4 ,i agree with ,f4 ,powers that a man who soaks scallops and then offers them for sale should be imprisoned4 ,the scallop dredgers were among the first to take advantage of the new parcel post1 which enables them to send the unspoiled mollusc to any one within a reasonable distance4 ,concerning our fishes it is easy to say that the finest-flavored are the shad1 the whitefish1 the ,chinook salmon1 the rainbow trout2 but when you happen to be eating a baby bluefish or a ,spanish mackerel just out of the water1 you may change your mind for the time being2 you are sure to do this1 also1 if you happen to be in ,new ,orleans and eat fresh pompano as prepared by a ,creole cook4 ,the sheepshead1 the smelt1 the catfish1 the sturgeon1 the halibut1 are excellent2 and so is the swordfish1 which is far too little known among gourmets4 ,its flesh might be more tender1 but it has a fine ,flavor1 suggesting a combination of salmon and halibut4 ,it is for the cod1 however1 that ,i wish to plead most earnestly4 ,some persons 7usually persistent smokers1 or individuals whose sense of smell is not well developed7 maintain that the cod is tasteless4 ,as a matter of fact it has a subtle but most delicious ,flavor which1 when the fish is fresh1 reminds me of the flesh of crawfish4 ,at present 7#aiac7 the cod enjoys the advantage of being the only fish1 with the exception of trout1 that can be bought alive in the markets of ,new ,york4 ,live cod1 when listed on restaurant menus1 is in great demand4 ,it is not always equally good1 however1 because much of the live cod is really live hake1 which is far inferior in ,flavor4 ,the substitution of haddock for cod is less objectionable4 ,much of the salted and dried fish which goes into the typically ,american codfish balls1 is also cod in name only4 ,dealers who use benzoate of soda or other chemicals to preserve it1 give elaborate directions for soaking them out4 ,it is needless to say that this soaking process also takes out all the ,flavor4 ,,vegetables ,,steadily ,,gaining ,,ground4 ,historians are usually so deeply interested in all the petty details of politics that such trifles as the food which keeps us alive gets no attention at all4 ,macaulay was a laudable exception4 ,another is ,macmaster4 ,in the first volume of his ,history of the ,people of the ,united ,states he remarks that a century ago tomatoes1 cauliflower1 and eggplants were not to be found at the corner grocery2 oranges and bananas were a luxury of the rich2 and there were no cultivated varieties of strawberries or raspberries4 ,of apples and pears there were plenty1 but none of those exquisite varieties1 the result of long and assiduous nursing1 grafting1 and transplanting1 which are now to be had of every greengrocer4 ,in ,boston1 at that time1 beef and pork1 salt fish1 dried apples and vegetables1 made up the daily fare from one year's end to another4 ,the wretched fox grape was the only kind that found its way to the market1 and was the luxury of the rich4 ,among the fruits and vegetables of which no one had then even heard are cantaloupes1 many varieties of peaches and pears1 tomatoes and rhubarb1 sweet corn1 the cauliflower1 the eggplant1 head lettuce and okra4 ,to-day1 how different the situation6 ,in the catalogues of the seedsmen more than fifty kinds of vegetables are listed1 and of each kind a dozen1 or several dozen1 distinct varieties are offered for sale4 ,yet these varieties represent only a very small proportion of the vast number that have been created4 ,in his instructive book on ,plant ,breeding1 ,l4 ,h4 ,bailey has a chapter on one of the most deserving of ,american originators of new varieties of vegetables1 ,n4 ,b4 ,keeney1 of ,leroy1 ,new ,york4 ,mr4 ,keeney was at one time raising sixty-five varieties of garden peas and sixty-nine of beans1 thirteen of the latter of his own originating1 including the stringless kinds which have been introduced throughout the country by ,mr4 ,burpee1 and which are one of ,america's greatest achievements in plant development4 ,the ,professor was told by ,mr4 ,keeney that fully three thousand varieties and forms of beans had been discarded by him as profitless6 ,in the same volume ,professor ,bailey informs us that the date of the first fruit book is #ahag4 ,in #ahde1 nearly two hundred varieties of apples were described as having been fruited in this country1 of which over half were of ,american origin4 ,in #ahgb the number of varieties described was #ahbc1 and in #ahib ,american nurserymen offered for sale #hgh varieties of apples4 ,among the vegetables which have been varied and improved by ,american breeders are the squashes1 pumpkins1 sweet potatoes1 rhubarb1 celery1 corn1 lettuce1 tomatoes1 watermelons1 cantaloupes1 cucumbers1 potatoes1 and eggplants4 ,one vegetable1 ,brussels sprouts1 has not been improved but greatly impaired by some man 7whether an ,american or a ,european ,i do not know7 who crossed it with cabbage1 making the sprouts larger but less finely flavored and also less digestible4 ,as ,i wrote of tomatoes1 which are of ,american origin1 in the chapters on ,france and ,italy ,i have only a few words to add4 ,it is an odd fact that although we can claim this succulent vegetable as one of the ,new ,world blessings1 it was in the ,old ,world1 in the ,mediterranean countries that its gastronomic value was first fully realized4 ,in the ,united ,states1 as in ,england and ,germany1 there seems to have been a prejudice against it because of its belonging to the same family as the deadly nightshade4 ,much ingenuity has been expended in creating new varieties and prolonging the season4 ,it is a most unfortunate circumstance that some of our most important vegetables are killed by the slightest frost4 ,this is true of squashes1 pumpkins1 potatoes1 beans1 cucumbers1 melons1 and tomatoes4 ,knowing that ,luther ,burbank had succeeded in making apple-blossoms frost-proof1 ,i once asked him to please do the same for tomatoes4 ,he shook his head and replied that that was beyond his powers1 because of their semi-tropic origin and habits4 ,yellow tomatoes are not so much used 7except for preserves7 as they deserve to be4 ,they have a very fine ,flavor of their own4 ,in regard to red varieties1 it may be well to warn the breeders not to go too far in their efforts to create beefsteak varieties by reducing the seed pulp to a minimum4 ,it is in that pulp that the richest ,flavor is found1 and the seeds do not appear to be indigestible4 ,like the tomatoes1 celery belongs to a family of poisonous plants and was also for a long time considered poisonous1 which is doubtless the reason why it is only within comparatively recent years that it has come so much into demand4 ,to-day it is raised all the way from ,florida to ,michigan1 where it flourishes1 particularly in the muck-bed area4 ,celery is not indigenous to our soil4 ,it has been used in ,europe for centuries1 but in the kitchen rather than as an ornament of the dining-room4 ,in ,italy1 ,france1 ,germany1 it is treated as a pot-herb1 for flavoring stews and soups1 the unbleached plant being preferred because of its more powerful ,flavor2 but all celery tops and leaves are useful for this purpose2 they certainly do much to give zest to soups and stews4 ,so far as known ,england was the first country to appreciate the charm of blanched celery4 ,in a book called ,the ,new ,world of ,words1 published by a nephew of ,milton in #afgh1 we read that ,sellerie is an herb which1 nursed up in a hot-bed and afterwards transplanted into rich ground1 is usually whited for an excellent winter sallad4 ,we also use it to some extent as a salad1 but it needs no vinegar for pungency1 and most of us prefer to eat the stalks plain1 cum grano salis4 ,few who eat it this way know that it is much more digestible if the stalk is broken in pieces and the fiber stripped off4 ,stewing softens the fibers4 ,cooked au jus1 celery is almost better even than raw4 ,if ,i had the choice of a dozen vegetables at dinner1 ,i would more often than any other choose celery au jus4 ,raw celery is seen so much more frequently on the table in this country than in any other that it may be virtually considered an ,american specialty4 ,nowhere else is it so crisp and tender1 or so eagerly craved4 ,it is a nerve tonic1 and we need nerve tonics4 ,while melons are not indigenous to ,america1 many of the choicest varieties of cantaloupes and watermelons are creations of our growers4 ,nowhere in the world will you find anything to surpass in sweetness and fragrance the ,emerald ,gem1 the ,new ,spicy1 or the ,rocky ,ford1 most luscious of all4 ,the ,new ,world's most important contribution to other countries1 so far as nutritive value is concerned1 is the potato4 ,how ,ireland and ,germany1 in particular1 could have ever got on without this vegetable1 it is difficult to imagine4 ,sweet potatoes also are of ,american origin4 ,they have been slow in making headway in ,europe because they do not1 like the white potato1 grow in almost any soil and climate4 ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #cbd is devoted to sweet potatoes4 ,its author1 ,w4 ,r4 ,beattie1 of the ,bureau of ,plant ,industry1 remarks that as a commercial truck crop the sweet potato would be included among the five of greatest importance1 ranking perhaps about third in the list4 ,as a food for the great mass of the people living in the warmer portions of our country the use of this crop is exceeded by hominy and rice only4 ,in the ,philippine ,islands it is at certain seasons almost the only food available for the lower classes4 ,there are many varieties1 the soft1 moist kinds being richer in ,flavor than the others4 ,these are preferred in the ,south where a mealy sweet potato would not be eaten4 ,,the ,,fruit ,,eaters' ,,paradise4 ,many a time1 in contemplating the conditions described under the heading of ,ungastronomic ,america1 have ,i wished ,i lived in ,europe2 yet1 every time1 my gastronomic allegiance to the ,stars and ,stripes is cemented again by the contemplation of the glorious fruits we produce4 ,this feeling is the stronger because ,i had the rare good fortune to grow up in an ,oregon apple orchard4 ,oregon apples gave me my college education1 and my sturdy health1 too1 for nothing is more wholesome than apples1 and from my eighth to my eighteenth year ,i ate more apples than anything else4 ,in our orchard of many hundreds of trees there were scores of varieties1 some of which ,i would no more have thought of eating than a raw potato4 ,not that they would not have found a ready sale in any market2 but at home they were rejected because of their inferiority in ,flavor to the ,gravenstein1 the ,red ,astrachan1 the ,baldwins1 the ,northern ,spy1 ,yellow ,newtown and ,green ,newtown ,pippins1 ,winesap1 ,roxbury ,russet1 ,white ,winter ,pearmain1 ,swaar1 ,seek-,no-,further1 and the ,rambo1 juiciest of cider apples and good to eat out of hand4 ,we also used to peel and cut up apples for drying4 ,very few people know the most delicious way to eat apples4 ,we knew it4 ,turn the wheel of the peeler round two or three times2 that removes the skin2 then keep on turning till all the pulp has peeled off into your left hand4 ,raise your head1 drop into your mouth the pulp of the apple and you will know the meaning of the word ,flavor4 ,and the best of it is that if eaten that way1 raw apples are not indigestible for anybody4 ,thirty-two years after these glorious feasts had come to an end ,i was pleased to get for review ,e4 ,p4 ,powell's delightful book1 ,the ,country ,home1#bd and to find that that eminent connoisseur's ideas regarding the best ,american apples coincided in the main with my youthful convictions4 ,i cannot too strongly urge my readers to get that volume and enjoy ,mr4 ,powell's remarks--written con amore as well as with the knowledge of an expert--on the kinds of apples1 pears1 peaches1 plums1 cherries1 and other fruits which it is most advisable to raise on ,american farms1 and what is the best way to do it4 ,strawberries1 gooseberries1 currants and blackberries have a chapter to themselves1 for of all these there are distinct ,american varieties--and under the heading1 ,tons of ,grapes1 the author gives pages of appetizing information about the fruit which1 next to apples1 is a prime article of diet4 ,he shows how you can manage to have grapes six or seven months every year1 and tells what are the best varieties to grow4 ,every farmer and owner of a country home should raise grapes4 ,it is cheaper and better food than meat and vegetables1 and they never tire of it4 ,i recommend that you go out before breakfast and sample a half-dozen sorts2 repeat the experiment before dinner1 and if the digestion is poor1 take nothing else for supper4 ,grapes are nothing if not ,american--that is1 some grapes are4 ,they are indigenous to the soil1 growing wild nearly everywhere1 from the extreme south to the banks of the ,androscoggin in ,maine1 where ,i have often picked them4 ,a curious and important difference between grapes in ,america and in ,europe is noted by ,professor ,bailey in his ,sketch of the ,evolution of ,our ,native ,fruits4 ,the ,american grape--that is1 the ameliorated offspring of the native species1 is much unlike the ,european fruit4 ,it is essentially a table fruit1 whereas the other is a wine fruit4 ,european writings treat of the vine1 but ,american writings speak of grapes4 ,yet it was not till the middle of the nineteenth century that the modern table use of the native grape began to be appreciated and understood4 ,that grapes were not brought from ,europe to ,america is absolutely certain4 ,long before ,columbus1 there came across the sea ,leif1 who1 in the words of ,justin ,winsor1 found vines hung with their fruit1 which induced ,leif to call the country ,vineland4 ,in ,new ,england1 ,edward ,winslow wrote in #afba that here are grapes1 white and red1 and very sweet and strong also4 ,professor ,bailey's book is largely devoted to the men who improved ,american fruits--men who1 as he justly intimates1 deserve commemoration quite as much as persons who are distinguished in military operations4 ,but while we1 as a nation1 have reason to feel proud of the achievements of these men1 a great deal more remains to be done4 ,professor ,bailey does not say which of our ,eastern grapes he considers the best1 but ,i am sure he would agree with me that the ,delaware has a finer ,flavor than any other kind1 and of the four chief ,american grapes the ,delaware is the only one which gives any very strong evidence of foreign blood4 ,this point has been disputed2 but it is certainly true that the types we grow are yet much inferior to the ,old ,world types4 ,our ,concords1 ,niagaras1 and ,catawbas1 in particular1 are capable of great improvement in the matter of ,flavor4 ,fortunes are in store for growers who will take the hint4 ,it is well to bear in mind that there are varieties1 such as the ,iona1 ,eldorado1 ,brighton1 ,worden1 ,hayes1 and ,lindley1 which1 though not to be found in our wretched markets1 are delicious4 ,they are enjoyed by owners of country residences and their guests1 even though city folk are unaware of their existence4 ,altogether1 the ,american grapes have given rise to some eight hundred domestic varieties1 about one hundred of which may be found listed in catalogues4 ,flavors cannot be transplanted4 ,european grapes grown in ,america get a different taste1 and the wines made of them have not the same bouquet4 ,a few exceptions there are1 notably the muscatel grape1 which is almost as delicious in ,california as it is in ,spain4 ,but as a rule it is a waste of money to attempt to duplicate ,european fruits4 ,many millions have been spent in vain efforts to do this4 ,to succeed1 we must be ,american4 ,long ago we learned to enjoy our game and our many varieties of distinctive sea foods of unique ,flavor4 ,our native vegetables1 wild nuts1 fruits1 and berries1 we also appreciated1 but these still offer limitless opportunities for improvement of their qualities--a proceeding which pays better than importing things ,european4 ,our nuts1 among them the hickory1 pine1 and black walnut1 are delightfully racy of the soil4 ,they1 too1 are as ,american as the ,indians1 and wherever possible their intermarriage with our domesticated fruits and berries is a consummation devoutly to be wished4 ,our wild crab-apples1 for instance1 of which there are five types1 while excessively sour1 have a superabundance of flavor4 ,by transfusing their blood into the domesticated apples we can eliminate the excess of acid and give to many of our big apples a richer aroma4 ,the persimmon is one of our native fruits of unlimited possibilities4 ,heretofore1 our markets have been supplied chiefly with the ,japanese kaki1 raised in ,california or ,florida4 ,it is a delicious fruit1 but there are native varieties which in the opinion of some are even finer than the ,japanese4 ,ordinarily the wild ,american persimmon is as sour and astringent as a crabapple1 fit only for the 'coon and the 'possum4 ,but there have been enthusiasts whose belief in the future of our persimmon amounted to a passion4 ,one of these was ,bryant1 whose zeal as a cultivator and whose interest in fruit-growing were almost as great as his poetic enthusiasm4 ,to ,professor ,bailey he expressed his belief that the finest persimmons of the future would be grown in the alluvial meadows of southern ,indiana4 ,while the persimmon is as delicious as the banana1 the demand for it has not been so great as it will be when the public learns that this fruit has the finest ,flavor and is most wholesome when it looks like an overripe tomato which no one would buy4 ,an ,italian pushcart man used to smile when he saw me approaching4 ,he knew ,i would pick out those which were so soft that they could be taken home only in a paper box4 ,ah1 you know1 you know6 he used to say1 pleased that his best things were not left on his hands by the uninformed multitude4 ,as a boy ,i used to enjoy hugely the ,may apple--a plum-shaped fruit growing on a low plant4 ,what was my indignation when1 some years later1 ,i began to study botany and found in ,professor ,asa ,gray's text book a description of that fruit1 ending with the words3 ,eaten by pigs and boys4 ,i promptly made up my mind that if adults do not relish this luscious fruit they have something to learn from pigs and boys4 ,another ,southern fruit1 abundant in ,missouri1 which greatly pleased my boyish palate1 was the pawpaw4 ,professor ,bailey says that most people do not relish its flavor1 nor does he believe that it will be possible to awaken much interest in this fruit4 ,mr4 ,powell1 on the other hand1 pays it a high tribute4 ,he sees no reason why this delicious fruit1 a sort of hardy banana1 should not be grown everywhere in our gardens4 ,those are the words of an epicure4 ,i am sure the pawpaw has a great future4 ,to many it may be an acquired taste1 but so are olives1 and the most appetizing of all table delicacies1 ,russian caviare4 ,i thank my stars that ,i always took naturally to such things2 it has added much to the pleasures of life4 ,so far as pawpaws are concerned1 it will be easier to persuade skeptics to try to learn to like them if they are told that their juice is considered by medical men a great aid to digestion4 ,papain is much used as a substitute for soda mints4 ,,governmental ,,gastronomy4 ,it is safe to say that in no other country has the ,government done so much as ours has to advise and aid those who raise foods and those who prepare them for the table4 ,in the preceding pages reference has been made to dozens of ,farmers' ,bulletins and other publications containing the results of experiments1 made at the cost of many millions of dollars1 with a view to informing the public on those matters4 ,every ,state and ,territory now has its own ,agricultural ,experiment ,stations4 ,primarily1 the aims of these stations are of course agricultural and economic2 in the last analysis1 however1 what are all the ,bulletins issued by them but so many lessons in national gastronomy8 ,a few years ago the ,department of ,agriculture boldly invaded the kitchen itself1 providing excellent lessons in the arts of preparing and preserving good food1 in such bulletins as ,the ,care of ,milk and ,its ,use in the ,home1 ,bread and ,bread-making1 ,food ,customs and ,diet in ,american ,homes1 ,care of ,food in the ,home1 ,economical ,use of ,meat in the ,home1 ,preparation of ,vegetables for the ,table1 ,composition and ,digestibility of ,potatoes and ,eggs1 ,cereal ,breakfast ,foods1 ,food ,value of ,cottage ,cheese1 ,rice1 ,peas1 and ,bacon1 ,cheese and ,its ,economic ,uses in the ,diet1 ,varieties of ,cheese1 ,fish as ,food1 ,sugar as ,food1 ,beans1 ,peas1 and ,other ,legumes as ,food1 ,poultry as ,food1 ,use of ,fruit as ,food1 ,nuts and ,their ,uses as ,food1 ,canning ,vegetables in the ,home1 etc4 ,for farmers1 truck gardeners1 and those who market foods1 there is a still longer list of ,bulletins1 ,circulars1 ,experiment ,station ,reports1 and other ,government publications4 ,to mention only a few of them3 ,potato ,culture1 ,sheep-feeding1 ,the ,sugar ,beet1 ,asparagus ,culture1 ,marketing ,farm ,produce1 ,care of ,milk on the ,farm1 ,ducks and ,geese1 ,rice ,culture1 ,the ,apple and ,how to ,grow ,it1 ,grape ,growing in the ,south1 ,home ,fruit ,garden1 ,home ,vineyard1 ,cheese-making on the ,farm1 ,cranberry ,culture1 ,squab ,raising1 ,meat on the ,farm3 ,butchering1 ,curing1 ,etc41 ,importation of ,game ,birds and ,eggs for ,propagation1 ,strawberries1 ,turkeys1 ,canned ,fruits1 ,preserves1 and ,jellies1 ,cream ,separators on ,western ,farms1 ,raspberries1 ,tomatoes1 ,the ,guinea ,fowl1 ,cucumbers1 ,maple ,sugar and ,syrup1 ,home ,vegetable ,garden1 ,celery1 ,poultry ,management1 ,sweet ,potatoes1 ,onion ,culture1 ,a ,successful ,poultry and ,dairy ,farm1 ,bees1 ,a ,successful ,hog and ,seed-,corn ,farm1 ,manufacture of ,butter for ,storage1 ,butter-making on the ,farm1 ,facts ,concerning the ,history1 ,commerce and ,manufacture of ,butter1 ,the ,cultivation of ,mushrooms1 and many more4 ,these valuable monographs were prepared by experts1 mostly specialists1 women as well as men4 ,distributed free when first published1 they are afterwards sold at cost price1 usually a nickel apiece2 few of them cost more than a dime4 ,full lists1 with prices and general instructions can be obtained by sending a postal card to the ,superintendent of ,documents at ,washington4 ,there are separate price lists of documents relating to agriculture1 dairying1 food and diet1 irrigation1 soils1 wild animals1 fishes1 health and hygiene1 poultry and birds1 etc4 ,in addition to all these documents there are many papers in the ,daily ,consular and ,trade ,reports containing valuable information on foreign foods and methods of marketing1 gathered by the ,consuls at the ,government's request4 ,the supplying of information on everything relating to foods is only one phase of the ,government's gastronomic activity4 ,another consists in calling attention to neglected edible plants4 ,on this subject one of the experts of the ,bureau of ,plant ,industry says3 ,what we call weeds are no more so than other plants that we term vegetables4 ,weeds are vegetables1 and our so-called vegetables were once upon a time no more than weeds4 ,the classification results from a matter of habit4 ,we are slaves of habit1 and because we are so it has not occurred to us that we could eat anything but just the old list of vegetables our ancestors have eaten for generations4 ,but now we are having our eyes opened and are beginning to peer into fence corners and back yards and wild pastures for new and wonderful foodstuffs that we have heretofore regarded as just weeds4 ,it is a bit mortifying that because of this preconceived idea we have let most nutritious and valuable foodstuffs go to waste under our very eyes1 while perhaps we were wailing that we had little to eat and that vegetables were too expensive and so on4 ,among the plants thus neglected1 but which1 if properly improved and marketed1 would enrich truck farmers1 are yellow dock1 dandelions1 milkweed1 golden thistles1 mallows1 purslane 7recommended by ,thoreau71 poke shoot1 red clover1 sorrel1 hop shoots1 yarrow1 leek1 and lupines4 ,a third gastronomic function of our ,government is the importing of foreign fruits and vegetables that promise to add agreeable variety to the ,american dietary4 ,for this purpose experts are sent to all parts of the world to find and bring home new plants which are then acclimated in accordance with the latest scientific methods4 ,david ,fairchild1 one of these gastronomic explorers1 has repeatedly given in the ,national ,geographic ,magazine fascinating glimpses of the activity of the ,bureau of ,plant ,industry in this direction4 ,what he says about the date is particularly suggestive4 ,search through the deserts of the world has revealed the fact that the dates of our markets are only one or two kinds of the vast number of varieties known to the ,arabs and others whose principal food is the date4 ,those we prize as delicacies are by no means looked upon by the desert dwellers as their best4 ,the search has brought to light1 among other desirable kinds1 the hard1 dry date1 which ,americans do not know at all1 and which they will learn to appreciate as a food1 just as the ,arab has4 ,in #aijf no fewer than a hundred and seventy varieties of dates had been introduced1 and many of these are now growing successfully in ,arizona4 ,the time will come when we can have the choice of as many different kinds of dates in our markets as we have now of apples and pears4 ,and this experiment with dates is1 as ,mr4 ,fairchild says1 something that private enterprise would not have undertaken for decades to come4 ,experiments by the ,bureau of ,plant ,industry are being carried on also in ,porto ,rico1 the ,philippines1 ,hawaii1 and the ,panama ,canal ,zone4 ,it makes one's mouth water to read what ,mr4 ,fairchild writes1 for instance1 of the mangosteen4 ,there are at least fifteen edible species4 ,it has a beautiful white fruit pulp1 more delicate than that of a plum1 and a flavor that is indescribably delicate and luscious1 while its purple-brown rind will distinguish it from all other fruits and make it bring fancy prices wherever it is offered for sale4 ,the mango has for many years tried to secure a place in our markets1 but the specimens supplied--usually from worthless seedling trees--have given it a bad name4 ,the ,government office of ,pomology has been cultivating the infinitely superior ,mulgoba mangoes of ,east ,india1 fit to set before a king1 and will probably1 ere long1 add this to the list of marketable delicacies4 ,in ,india there are mangoes of all sizes and flavors1 some of which ,americans of the future will no doubt enjoy4 ,the ,united ,states ,government has1 furthermore1 gone into the business of creating entirely new fruits1 and valuable varieties of nuts1 particularly pecans1 on which the ,department of ,agriculture has specialized4 ,great improvements in corn1 wheat1 and other cereals have also been made at the ,government's ,experiment ,stations1 not to speak of stock breeding1 some of which has a gastronomic value4 ,nearly every volume of the ,year ,book of the ,department of ,agriculture has a chapter or two on this subject1 and some of the papers have been reprinted separately4 ,probably the two most important of the new creations are the tangelo and the citrange--new names for new fruits which seem destined to become as common in our markets as oranges1 lemons1 limes and grapefruit4 ,the tangelo is a hybrid of the tangerine orange and the pomelo 7grapefruit74 ,there are several varieties4 ,it is described as being sweeter than the pomelo1 but more sprightly acid than the tangerine4 ,it has the loose kid-glove skin of the latter fruit4 ,the characteristic bitter flavor of the pomelo is considerably reduced but remains as a pleasant suggestion of that popular fruit4 ,i have had no opportunity to try this novelty1 but ,professor ,bailey pronounces it an excellent dessert fruit and an interesting and valuable acquisition4 ,of the citrange1 also1 there are several varieties1 the ,rusk1 ,willits1 and ,morton4 ,they are the outcome of an attempt to combine the hardiness of the worthless trifoliata orange 7citrus trifoliata7 with the sweetness of the common orange4 ,the ,morton is very near to a sweet orange2 while the ,willits makes a good drink and replaces the lemon for culinary purposes4 ,the ,rusk makes a very delightful citrangeade1 a good pie1 and excellent marmalade and preserves4 ,for the latter uses it may ultimately be grown extensively4 ,,burbank',s ,,new ,,fruits ,,and ,,vegetables4 ,as a creator of new plants useful to mankind as superior foods1 or because of their beauty1 no man is the peer of ,luther ,burbank1 of ,santa ,rosa1 ,california4 ,in the words of ,david ,starr ,jordan1 president of the ,leland ,stanford ,university1 ,luther ,burbank is the greatest originator of new and valuable forms of plant life of this or any other age4 ,he is all that he has ever been said to be1 and more1 says ,professor ,bailey of ,cornell ,university1 ,america's chief authority on horticulture2 and the leading foreign botanist1 ,hugo de ,vries1 of ,amsterdam1 admits that in all ,europe there is no one who can even compare with ,luther ,burbank4 ,he is a unique1 great genius4 ,that last sentence explains ,mr4 ,burbank's supremacy4 ,he has1 it must be admitted1 enjoyed unique advantages4 ,the climate of ,california has been in his favor1 enabling him in some cases to raise more than one crop in a year and to operate on a larger scale than any one else has ever done4 ,of fruits alone1 for instance1 he has had under test at one time #cjj1jjj distinct varieties of plums1 different in foliage1 in form of fruit1 in shipping1 keeping1 and canning qualities1 #fj1jjj peaches and nectarines1 five to six thousand almonds1 #b1jjj cherries1 #b1jjj pears1 #a1jjj grapes1 #c1jjj apples1 #a1bjj quinces1 #e1jjj walnuts1 #e1jjj chestnuts1 five to six thousand berries of various kinds1 with many thousands of other fruits1 flowers1 and vegetables4 ,such advantages1 however1 would not have enabled ,mr4 ,burbank to make his marvelous improvements along all the lines hinted at in the quotation just made4 ,the world owes these choice gifts to the fact that he is a genius1 an artist1 an epicure1 and an enthusiast1 as well as a plant breeder4 ,the most obvious truth which strikes one when he attempts to make a reflective or historical study of the improvement of our native fruits1 is the fact that in nearly every case the amelioration has come from the force of circumstances and not from the choice or design of men4444 ,what has been called plant breeding is mostly discovery2 or1 in other words1 so far as the cultivator is concerned1 it is accident1 writes ,professor ,bailey1 in his ,sketch of the ,evolution of ,our ,native ,fruits4 ,in another of his books1 ,plant ,breeding1 after stating that in #ahib ,american nurserymen were offering #hgh varieties of apples1 he adds that it is doubtful if one in the whole lot was the result of any attempt on the part of the originator to produce a variety with definite qualities4 ,illustration3 ,,luther ,,burbank ,these remarks apply to the methods of plant breeders in general4 ,but there are exceptions1 and ,luther ,burbank is the most important of them by far4 ,true1 he also had to rely on accident1 such as the discovery of a ,california poppy with a small crimson spot1 which he gradually enlarged till the whole flower was crimson2 and it is for the purpose of taking advantage of lucky accidents that he raises plants in such unprecedented numbers4 ,but chance is only one of his assets4 ,he has in his mind a mental pattern1 which is made just as real and definite as the pattern of an inventor1 or the model of a sculptor1 as his biographer remarks4 ,in other words1 his imagination conjures a fruit improved along a definite line in ,flavor1 color1 size1 or keeping quality1 and he then proceeds to hybridize till he has achieved the ideal he has in his mind1 though it may take a decade or longer to do it4 ,in one of ,mr4 ,burbank's bulletins there is a picture of ,john ,burroughs sampling the ,patagonia strawberry in its originator's garden at ,santa ,rosa4 ,in this berry ,mr4 ,burroughs discovered a wonderful pineapple flavor and pronounced it the most delicious strawberry he had ever tasted4 ,it is claimed for it that it is an exceptionally good keeper1 and that it can be freely eaten by those with whom the common acid strawberries disagree4 ,it is the result of a full quarter of a century's patient experiments4 ,for twenty years ,mr4 ,burbank had1 as he frankly admits1 tried in vain to improve on the finest berries in the market4 ,knowing that all our best strawberries have descended wholly or in part from one of the ,chilian varieties1 he got one of his collectors in ,chili1 some years ago1 to send him seeds of wild strawberries from the ,cordillera and from the ,coast regions4 ,among the plants which grew from these seeds he found some that promised to be of great value when crossed with the best ,american and ,european strains4 ,with his usual ,edisonian patience1 he experimented until among the very numerous seedlings under test was found this unique berry1 which was at once recognized as the grand prize4 ,in this little genealogical tale we have an excellent illustration of that judgment as to what will likely be good and what bad which1 in the words of ,professor ,bailey1 is the very core of plant-breeding1 and in which ,burbank excels4 ,the ,burbank bulletins give many similar instances2 and in view of the fact that his rivals and others have belittled his labors1 it is proper that he should plead his own cause4 ,his bulletins call attention to some of the results of his methods as compared with those of other plant-breeders4 ,here1 for instance1 is a fact for his detractors3 ,nearly #ie per cent4 of the new plums introduced since #ahij1 now catalogued as standards1 originated on my own farms1 although nearly four times as many new varieties have been introduced by other dealers4 ,most of the introductions of others are not now generally even listed4 ,the ,burbank plum1 which was introduced less than twenty years ago1 is now perhaps more widely known than any other plum1 the world over2 but1 he says1 hundreds of better plums have since been produced on my experiment farms4 ,the ,burbank potato is now the universal standard in the ,pacific ,coast ,states and is gradually taking the lead in the ,middle ,west4 ,it originated at ,mr4 ,burbank's home place in ,massachusetts in #ahgc1 and was subsequently much improved by him in ,california4 ,as ,h4 ,s4 ,harwood remarks in his admirable book on the career and the achievements of ,mr4 ,burbank1 ,new ,creations in ,plant ,life 7the ,macmillan ,co471 he has had four main objects in view in the work3 ,a potato with a better flavor1 one with a relatively larger amount of sugar1 one that will be a larger size and all of the same uniform shape and size1 and one that will better resist diseases and be a larger yielder than any potato now known4 ,in all these points he has succeeded2 never1 anywhere1 have ,i eaten potatoes so mealy1 so digestible1 and1 above all1 so rich in ,flavor as ,burbank's4 ,when first introduced in ,california1 in #ahgf1 old potato growers would have none of it1 because it was new and because it was white4 ,you will have to hunt a long time to find red potatoes now1 writes ,mr4 ,burbank4 ,j4 ,m4 ,eddy1 ,secretary of the ,stockton ,chamber of ,commerce1 stated in #aiaj that in ,san ,joaquin ,county #d1gej1jjj bushels1 or #ie per cent4 of the entire output1 were ,burbank potatoes2 and according to the ,u4 ,s4 ,department of ,agriculture the ,burbank potato is adding more than #ag1jjj1jjj to the farm incomes of ,america alone4 ,corn is ,america's biggest crop4 ,to add only one kernel to the ear of corn means a five million bushel crop increase4 ,in the best corn ,states1 corn grows from eight to ten feet high1 and bears an average of slightly less than two ears to the stalk4 ,during the past summer ,luther ,burbank1 on his ,santa ,rosa experiment farm1 has grown corn sixteen feet in height1 bearing thirty-two ears to the stalk4 ,these statements are cited from the prospectus of the ,luther ,burbank ,society issued in the year #aiab1 relating to the twelve superbly illustrated volumes to be published in which the ,burbank discoveries or inventions 7nearly #a1cjj in all7 are described with full directions as to how his methods can be applied on every farm1 in every fruit orchard1 in every truck or home garden1 to the delight and profit of thousands4 ,one of ,mr4 ,burbank's absolutely new creations is the pomato4 ,it is the evolution of the potato seedball1 heretofore absolutely useless1 except for experimenters4 ,it first appears1 says ,mr4 ,harwood1 as a tiny green ball upon the potato top1 and develops as the season progresses into a fruit the size and general shape of a small tomato4444 ,it is delightful to the taste1 having the suggestion of quite a number of different fruits and yet not easily identified with any particular one4444 ,it is fine eaten raw out of the hand1 delicious when cooked1 and excellent as a preserve4 ,some years ago ,mr4 ,burbank wrote in regard to his new plants that every one has proved better than those known before in some new quality1 in some soils and climates4 ,all do not thrive everywhere4 ,please name one good fruit or nut that does4 ,the last two sentences are directed at those of his critics who triumphantly point to cases of failure of his new products in this or that locality4 ,judgment has to be used2 certain varieties which are a success in one locality may be1 and often are1 a complete failure a few miles distant1 or nearby on a different soil or at a different elevation4 ,the ,burbank ,crimson ,winter ,rhubarb has been offered by unprincipled dealers in the cold ,northern ,states1 though they must have known that it could not prove successful there4 ,for this new type the claim is made that it is the most valuable vegetable introduced during the last quarter of a century4 ,so many fortunes have been made with it in ,california and ,florida that it has been named ,the ,mortgage ,lifter4 ,the chief forester of the ,government of ,south ,africa reports that at ,cape ,town1 where all other rhubarbs had been a failure for two centuries1 the ,burbank ,crimson ,winter variety proved to be a complete success4 ,yet ,mr4 ,burbank now has a still further improved variety1 the ,giant1 which excels the original ,crimson ,winter ,rhubarb at least #djj per cent4 ,the list of delicacies for which ,american--and foreign--epicures are indebted to this inventor includes many other vegetables1 berries1 fruits1 and nuts4 ,he has not only improved the ,flavor of the blackberry1 but taken away its thorns4 ,he has created a genuine new species by uniting the blood of the blackberry with that of the raspberry4 ,the phenomenal berry now in such great demand on the ,pacific ,coast1 was evolved from the dewberry4 ,burbank's ,himalayan yields four times as much by weight as any other berry1 and keeps twice as long2 hence it has become the most profitable shipping berry4 ,everybody likes quince jelly and marmalade1 but it remained for ,mr4 ,burbank to create the pineapple quince1 which can be eaten out of hand like an apple4 ,for his improved cherry fabulous sums have been paid in ,eastern markets--over three dollars a pound in one case4 ,cauliflower is only cabbage with a college education1 said ,mark ,twain's ,pudd'nhead ,wilson4 ,what ,luther ,burbank is doing besides creating entirely new fruits and vegetables1 is to give the older ones a college education4 ,he has grown1 to cite his own words1 several millions of new fruits 444 in the constant effort to eliminate faults and substantiate virtues4 ,burbank's ,formosa plum blends at least fifteen different varieties in its origin4 ,it is unequaled in quality1 free from all disease1 and keeps remarkably well4 ,another of his new plums is practically without a pit1 while a third has the flavor of a ,bartlett pear4 ,into another he has bred a delicious fragrance1 so powerful that when left in a closed room over night the whole apartment will be delightfully saturated with the odor4 ,the new ,nixie plum has1 when cooked1 the flavor and appearance of cranberries4 ,it is described as the forerunner of a wholly new class of fruits1 and as having an almost incomparably delicious flavor1 which it owes to the blood of the wild ,sierra plum4 ,some of ,mr4 ,burbank's prunes excel the best of the ,french2 and his plumcot is another of the entirely new fruits he has given the world4 ,in creating this1 he bred together a wild ,american plum1 a ,japanese plum1 and an apricot1 making a fruit which differs in flavor1 color and texture from any other kind4 ,there are already several varieties of it4 ,of his successful experiments in educating nuts three may be mentioned4 ,he has made chestnut trees bear at the unheard-of early age of a year and a half2 he has created a paper shell walnut2 and1 what is more remarkable still1 he has removed from the walnut the disagreeably bitter inside skin which makes it indigestible because of the tannin in it4 ,grapes have not been neglected4 ,in the summer of #aiaa ,i asked him if he would not undertake to educate some other grapes grown in ,california to the level of the ,muscatels and at the same time give the ,muscatel a thicker skin to make it better able to stand transportation to the ,east4 ,he answered in a letter dated ,july #be1 that he was at work on several of the ,california grapes to give them better flavors1 thicker skins1 and better keeping qualities2 and1 he added1 ,i assure you that ,i am having good success4 ,they are not yet ready to send out4 ,the ,newtown ,pippin is one of the finest apples1 but he has a descendant of it which is a far better bearer and has an added aromatic fragrance4 ,there are improved peaches1 too2 also1 many beautiful flowers new to the world2 but of flowers this is not the place to write4 ,is it not strange that this unselfish wonder-worker1 whose object is not to make money 7except for the purpose of enabling him to go on with his experiments71 should have met with so much hostility8 ,yet he declares that the greatest inconvenience or injustice he has met is not misunderstanding1 prejudice1 envy1 jealousy1 or ingratitude1 but the fact that purchasers are so often deceived by unscrupulous dealers who1 misusing his name1 foist upon the public hardy bananas1 blue roses1 seedless watermelons1 and a thousand other things1 including ,united ,states ,government thorny cactus for the ,burbank ,thornless4 ,on this point ,mr4 ,burbank has reason to write with a feeling of mingled pride and resentment4 ,in #ahif the first scientific experiments for the improvement of cactus as food for man and beast were made on his farms4 ,eight years later1 when these costly experiments were crowned with success1 the ,department of ,agriculture spent #aj1jjj in searching for a thornless cactus like those already produced by ,mr4 ,burbank4 ,the result was a failure2 the spineless cactus sent out were not spineless1 not safe to handle or feed to stock1 while the fruit was seedy and poor4 ,illustration3 ,burbank's ,spineless ,cactus ,the ,burbank improved cactus1 on the other hand1 is free not only from the long spines but from the even more harmful microscopic spicules4 ,it is therefore as safe to handle and as safe to feed as beets1 potatoes1 carrots or pumpkins4 ,the new thornless varieties will produce a hundred tons of good feed where the average wild ones will yield only ten tons of inferior fodder4 ,it can be grown on millions of acres of deserts where no other edible vegetation can be raised1 and as it is possible to produce a thousand tons of feed on a single acre1 the imagination conjures up the time when beef will once more be as abundant1 as good1 and as cheap as it was in the days of unlimited pasturage4 ,the leaves or slabs are valuable as food for other farm animals1 including poultry4 ,the fruit1 also1 is produced in enormous quantity and is likely to become as important in our markets as bananas and oranges4 ,the cactus bearing the best fruit is not yet quite spineless1 but the fine bristles on the fruits are easily removed with a small whiskbroom before picking4 ,burbank's #aiab ,spineless ,cactus bulletin lists more than a dozen varieties cultivated for the fruit1 and fifteen varieties raised for forage4 ,the cactus fruit can be produced at less than one-tenth the expense of producing apples1 oranges1 apricots1 grapes1 plums1 or peaches4 ,there is never a failure in the crop1 and the fruit can be stored like apples4 ,it will oust the injurious fillers and adulterants now used by manufacturers4 ,excellent jams1 jellies1 syrups1 marmalades and preserves can be made of cactus fruit at a minimum cost4 ,for candies and for pickling1 also1 it can be used to advantage1 and the juice from the fruits of the crimson varieties is used for coloring ices1 jelly and confectionery4 ,no more beautiful colors can be imagined4 ,mr4 ,burbank takes a keen delight in his new plants1 and like other artists1 he likes to know that you really see and feel what he has done4 ,when we visited him in the summer of #aiji1 in company with ,john ,burroughs and the ,california poet1 ,charles ,keeler1 nothing seemed to please him more than the proof we gave that we were actually familiar with his creations1 by our comments on the improvements he had made in his crimson and crimson-and-gold ,california poppies and the wonderful ,shirleys since we last raised them1 the previous summer1 in our ,maine grounds4 ,i felt like ,parsifal in the enchanted garden4 ,we had a chance to stroke the spineless blackberry and cactus1 and to taste various kinds of berries and fruits more luscious than any that mortals have eaten since the ,garden of ,eden was destroyed4 ,illustration ,,xii ,,commercial ,,value ,,of ,,flavor ,,palatability ,,decides ,,permanence4 ,luther ,burbank is1 as already noted1 an epicure4 ,no one enjoys his new products more than he does1 and in his bulletins he never omits to call attention to the added aromatic fragrance or the delicious flavor of his improved fruits4 ,what ,i wish particularly to call attention to now1 however1 is that he fully realizes the commercial value of ,flavor4 ,he holds1 as ,mr4 ,harwood wrote in #aije1 that it is highly important in the production of a new fruit or vegetable to make it preminently palatable1 for1 in the last analysis1 it is palatability that decides the permanence of any new food4 ,if palatability be eliminated as a factor1 then mankind is prone to consider the food1--no matter what its form or character1--a medicine1 to be taken because it produces certain necessary results4 ,when ,i informed him that ,i was writing a book on ,food and ,flavor he sent me a long letter1 dated ,december #ah1 #aiab1 from which ,i take the liberty of citing the following illuminating paragraphs3 ,i am very glad that you have taken up the subject of flavor in food4 ,it is a far more important matter than most people believe4 ,color and flavor both aid digestion very materially1 most especially flavor1 and my work from the first has been among food and drug plants to obtain pure1 pleasing flavors 7and in flowers1 fragrance7 and ,i have been as successful in that line as in any other line of work4 ,vegetables--like celery1 cabbage1 cauliflower1 carrots1 turnips1 beets1 lettuce1 peas1 beans1 sweet corn and especially artichokes1 have not only had ill flavors1 but have been lacking in sweetness4 ,these can be just as readily added as form1 size or color4 ,even the pot herbs need attention fully as much as anything else1 and they will take a lot of time4 ,take savory1 sage1 or any other herb seedlings1 four out of five of them will have a poor flavor1 while the fifth will have the most delicious odor1 flavor and fragrance4 ,sometimes only one in a hundred or so has this delightful combination4 ,it is simply a matter of selection to produce these herbs so that all will have the delightful flavor of the single individual4 ,it is astounding that more attention has not been placed on this line of plant improvement1 though until my work commenced in this line some twenty-five years ago1 no one seems to have thought that these changes could be made4 ,i have only outlined briefly the almost infinite number of improvements that could be named1 not only in the plants named1 but in all other plants as well as fruits2 in which people recognize flavors most quickly4 ,it is almost necessary to knock a man down before you can convince him that there are differences in flavors of herbs and vegetables1 or that such things as coffee1 cinnamon and other plants can be improved in this respect4 ,,eating ,,with ,,the ,,eyes4 ,the object of this whole book is to furnish a knockdown argument as to the overwhelming importance of securing the best flavors in food and to demonstrate at the same time that commercially the richest ,flavor pays best4 ,a few years ago ,professor ,j4 ,l4 ,henderson of the ,harvard ,medical ,school astonished newspaper readers by saying that the needed food for one person costs only ten cents a day and that the rest we spend goes largely for flavor4 ,had he made this remark some years hence he might have said goes chiefly for flavor4 ,at the present time1 unfortunately1 not a few purchasers of foods are guided to a considerable extent by appearance4 ,dr4 ,wiley has written trenchantly on the widely prevalent habit of eating with the eyes--of selecting articles of food for their size and color instead of their flavor4 ,inferior or imitation butter1 for example1 is artificially colored and the ignorant consumer meekly buys it4 ,the epicure buys butter for its ,flavor and the dealer cannot deceive his eyes4 ,to him1 in the words of ,dr4 ,wiley1 the natural tint of butter is as much more attractive than the artificial as any natural color is superior to the artificial4 ,there is the same difference between the natural tint of butter and the artificial as there is between the natural rose of the cheek and its painted substitute4 ,the dairymen of our country are honest and honorable and evidently do not clearly see the false position in which the practice of coloring butter puts them4 ,when the dairymen of the country understand that the naturally colored products will bring the highest price on the market and appeal more strongly to the confidence of the consumer it is believed the artificial coloring in butter will be relegated to the scrap pile of useless processes4 ,natural butter is yellow in ,may and ,june2 but whoever buys yellow butter at other times in the belief that it is fresh is a greenhorn4 ,even harmless coloring matter1 like carrot juice1 is objectionable1 because it makes the butter spoil sooner4 ,george ,k4 ,holmes1 ,chief of the ,division of ,foreign ,markets1 contributed to the ,yearbook of the ,department of ,agriculture for #aijd an article entitled ,consumers' ,fancies which gives some curious illustrations of the stupid underrating of the all-important ,flavor4 ,to cite one of them3 ,although it may seem that it is positively not worth while1 to say nothing of money1 to buy a nut except to enjoy its flavor1 yet to taste is assigned only #be per cent41 while #ej per cent4 is given to the eye1 the remaining #be per cent4 going to the convenience of cracking the shells4 ,judges at county fairs have been known to allow #bj points on looks and only #ae on the flavor of foods4 ,they knew that city folk are easily fooled by appearances4 ,on this point ,mr4 ,holmes remarks3 ,in the city1 a large city especially1 the appearance of an apple is everything and taste nothing1 unless the purchaser was once a country boy and enjoyed the freedom of an orchard4 ,and again3 ,city-bred people1 who have little knowledge of the origin and real character of food and food products1 such as the country man has1 and who have no childhood's acquaintance with the good things of the farm1 are especially liable to suggestion2 they are governed largely by appearances in their selection of farm products and are easily deceived by the trick of a false name or a false ingredient in a prepared food4 ,one of the standing jokes in our comic papers concerns the hayseed who comes to town and buys a gold brick4 ,if the farmers edited comic papers1 they would have a standing joke about the city folk who buy their showy products1 leaving them the best flavored1 which may not appeal to the eye4 ,it is not true1 however1 that all the showy fruits are insipid and all the small plain fruits full-flavored4 ,the delicious ,winter ,nellis pear is not nearly as pretty to look at as the ,bartlett1 yet it is quite as popular1 while the ,bartlett is as luscious as it is beautiful and often imposing in size1 especially on the ,pacific ,coast4 ,among the apples in our markets1 also1 some of the biggest and most beautiful are the best to eat4 ,it cannot be denied that there is something to be said in favor of eating with the eyes4 ,women naturally want the apples and oranges1 the berries and vegetables1 and the viands on their tables1 to look pretty and inviting4 ,nor is there any reason why they should not have their way4 ,the eye and the palate can be reconciled by breeding fruits and vegetables that combine good looks with agreeable flavor4 ,luther ,burbank has done the world a tremendous service by originating the luscious fruits and vegetables briefly referred to in the preceding chapter1 but perhaps his greatest achievement is the demonstration that there is virtually no limit to obtaining fruits of any size1 form1 or flavor desired1 and that the good looks and flavor can be amalgamated at pleasure with shipping and keeping qualities4 ,he himself is preparing many pleasant surprises of this kind beside those ,i have referred to1 and hundreds of others are profiting by his example and following his methods4 ,,school ,,girls ,,as ,,pure ,,food ,,experts4 ,three girls in a ,massachusetts ,normal ,school in #aijd accidentally launched a new kind of pure food movement which is of historic importance1 as it puts to shame the dilatory methods of ,federal and ,state ,governments4 ,they missed their lessons one day1 after feasting at a surreptitious midnight spread on strawberry jam4 ,their chemistry professor1 ,lewis ,b4 ,allyn1 advised them to analyze a can of the same preserves to find out what there was in it that could have made them ill4 ,they did so1 and found that the jam contained no strawberries at all but was made of apple sauce1 ether1 grass seeds1 red ink1 and salicylic acid4 ,it looked all right2 but what is food for the eye is often poison for the stomach4 ,that was the important lesson this incident was destined to teach the inhabitants of ,westfield1 ,massachusetts4 ,peter ,clarke ,macfarlane1 who tells the whole story graphically in ,collier's ,weekly for ,january #aa1 #aiac1 writes3 ,from that day forward the girls in the chemistry class began to qualify as pure-food experts4 ,they examined the canned goods1 the preserves1 the medicines1 and foods of every kind that came from the stores of ,westfield into the homes in which they lived4 ,the housekeepers were appalled to find the sort of thing they had been putting upon their tables4 ,and the grocers were somewhat appalled1 but much more annoyed4 ,it is very disturbing1 no doubt1 to have the canned goods you make the most profit on1 the ones that bear the very handsomest lithographs1 returned almost in wheelbarrow loads because of some fussy girls stewing chemicals in a laboratory4 ,i leave it to any one if it would not be annoying when a grocer is working energetically to build up trade in a new line of chocolate which he can sell in larger packages for less money than chocolate was ever sold before to have a miss still wearing her hair in braids say right out loud in the store for every one to hear3 ,pooh6 ,i analyzed that in class4 ,it is thirty per cent4 cornstarch4 ,that is why you can sell it cheaper than real chocolate4 ,and it has potash in it1 too1 which turns to suds when you add water1 and that's what makes it look so deliciously creamy and frothy when you pour it into the cups4 ,no suds in my chocolate1 thank you6 ,professor ,allyn1 under whose guidance this epoch-making crusade was undertaken--a crusade which should and could be carried on in every town throughout the country--was elected a member of the ,board of ,health4 ,opportunity was given housekeepers and all others who suspected foods of being adulterated1 to have them examined by the two hundred schoolgirls and their professor4 ,the results were placed on exhibition in the ,board of ,health ,museum4 ,in this way ,professor ,allyn taught tradesmen that it does not pay to handle impure goods when once the public is enlightened as to the difference between what looks good and what is good4 ,the ,westfield ,board of ,health now publishes a list of foods which it considers pure4 ,with that list in hand it is safe to go a-marketing4 ,offending manufacturers and dealers have been converted to the old doctrine that honesty is the best policy1 and the plan1 altogether1 has worked so well that hundreds of letters have come to the secretary of the ,board of ,health1 asking ,how can we give our town a pure-food standard like ,westfield8 ,one of the methods ,professor ,allyn adopted to teach the inhabitants of ,westfield the folly of eating with the eyes was to buy a can of peas1 open it in presence of an audience1 and pour in some hydrochloric acid1 a test for copper4 ,then he inserted a gleaming butcher knife and when he drew it out a few moments later it was coated with copper4 ,not all dye stuffs used for coloring canned or other foods are as objectionable as copper1 but most of them are undesirable because1 as ,dr4 ,wiley has pointed out1 they make it possible to conceal inferiority of material or lack of freshness4 ,in ,good ,housekeeping for ,february1 #aiac1 ,dr4 ,wiley had an article headed ,danger in ,vivid ,green ,vegetables in which he pointed out that after a delay of six years the ,remsen ,food ,board ratified his conclusions that the sulphate of copper used to give the unnatural bright color to canned peas1 beans1 and spinach is injurious to health and should not be allowed in foodstuffs4 ,it must have been a bitter pill to swallow1 he adds1 for were they not appointed in the hope that ,wiley would be reversed on all points8 ,another pure-food expert has given an amusing recipe for making a bottle of maraschino cherries3 ,take a cherry and remove the stone4 ,get the color out by holding it over the bleaching fumes of sulphur4 ,remove a portion of the fleshy part of the fruit to leave mostly fiber4 ,then inject some artificial sweet substance to give it a 'body' and a sugarlike quality4 ,dye it with a brilliant red coal tar dye4 ,put it in a bottle1 and sell it to a greenhorn4 ,a greenhorn is defined in the dictionary as a person who is easily imposed upon4 ,you prove yourself a greenhorn if you go into a grocery store and buy glasses of preserved fruits and vegetables dyed in brilliant rainbow hues such as no honest fruit ever exhibits4 ,you show yourself a greenhorn if you buy canned peaches for their shape4 ,peaches picked and halved before they are ripe retain their shape beautifully4 ,if you want to eat with your eyes buy this kind by all means4 ,peaches picked and halved when the sun has ripened them on the tree have ,flavor2 this kind is for those who eat with their mouth4 ,many of us are not greenhorns4 ,we would buy more ,california peaches in winter if the cans had a label with these words on it3 ,these peaches were picked ripe2 they may look a little mushy1 but they are much pleasanter to eat than those which are picked unripe to make them keep their shape4 ,try them and note the difference4 ,fortunes are in store for canners wise enough thus to recognize the commercial value of ,flavor and to educate the public in this simple way1 as well as by advertising in the newspapers and magazines4 ,a consumer who has eaten some of the flavorsome ripe peaches will come back for another can--or a dozen cans--much sooner than one who has eaten the hard insipid halves of unripe peaches4 ,,pennywise ,,dealers ,,and ,,pineapples4 ,herbert ,j4 ,webber relates in the ,yearbook of the ,department of ,agriculture for #aije that when the department's pineapple-breeding experiments were started1 the question of what varieties to cultivate gave considerable trouble4 ,many growers insisted that the red ,spanish was by far the best variety1 because of its adaptability to open field culture1 freedom from disease1 and good shipping qualities4 ,others contended that as varieties existed that were of far better quality and flavor1 the market should be educated to demand these better so-called fancy fruits4 ,the words ,i have italicized indicate a difficulty which confronts us--a problem of vast and national importance1 the chief impediment to our getting the best varieties of fruits1 imported as well as domestic1 and of vegetables1 too1 into our markets4 ,while some dealers are sufficiently astute to realize that sales are multiplied tenfold if the best fruits and vegetables are offered1 the ruling majority are so pennywise as to think only of the shipping and keeping qualities4 ,it is not too much to say that these short-sighted dealers have entered into a conspiracy to suppress the best varieties because their greater delicacy and juiciness make them more perishable4 ,the story of the pineapple illustrates this point4 ,in the ,far ,south1 where this luscious fruit grows1 its fragrance at the time of ripening pervades the whole neighborhood4 ,in our markets the pineapple's perfume is so faint that you have to flatten your nose against it before you get any at all4 ,the reason is that these pines not only are usually of an inferior sort1 but that they are picked and shipped before they are ripe4 ,bananas picked green ripen gradually and become sweet4 ,not so pineapples4 ,what happens when they are picked unripe is told in a ,bulletin of the ,hawaii ,agricultural ,experiment station 7#aiaj7 kindly forwarded to me by one of the officials after ,i wrote an article on the subject for the ,new ,york ,nation3 ,a study of the ripening of pineapples has disclosed the fact that the sugar content of the fruit is derived exclusively from the leaves of the plant and does not increase after the fruit has been removed from the plant4 ,if pineapples are picked green and allowed to ripen the sugar content at complete ripeness is the same as it was when the fruit was removed from the plants4 ,an analysis of the fruit shows that they contain no substance which can be changed into sugar during the ripening process4 ,fruits picked too green and allowed to ripen1 therefore1 lack greatly in sugar content and in flavor4 ,the sugar content of green fruits1 or fruits ripened after being picked too green1 is about #b or #c per cent41 while that of fruits ripened on the plant ranges from #i to #ae per cent4 ,the words in italics give the gist of the matter4 ,pines picked and shipped unripe never get their full ,flavor1 and its unique ,flavor is the one thing that makes a pineapple desirable1 for its nutritive value is slight1 and sweets and acids can be more conveniently and cheaply obtained in other ways4 ,here is a description of the pineapple at home3 ,the most delicious fruit to be found in ,brazil is the pineapple4 ,northerners who eat this fruit weeks after it has been picked in its green state have only a faint idea of its sweetness1 lusciousness and delicious flavor4 ,here the pineapple is picked when the tropical sun has perfected its chemical work1 and the fruit is ready to melt in the mouth4 ,it would be an affront to nature to sprinkle sugar upon it when sliced4 ,it is mellow1 over-running with juice1 and of incomparable flavor4 ,luther ,burbank has tried to cultivate a pineapple ,flavor in other fruits1 and when ,john ,burroughs found it in his new ,patagonia strawberry1 he was much pleased4 ,it is1 indeed1 such an exquisite fragrance that one would imagine the importers and dealers would think of it1 above all things1 as a bait to allure purchasers4 ,but no2 most of these gentlemen attach1 as we have seen1 chief importance to keeping and shipping qualities4 ,the consequence of this pennywise policy is that about one-tenth as many pineapples are sold in our markets as would be if the ,commercial ,value of ,flavor were fully recognized4 ,the canners1 it is instructive to note1 have benefited by the mistake of their competitors4 ,they wait till the fruit is ripe and flavorsome before they tin it1 and that is the reason why the luscious ,hawaiian canned pineapple suddenly sprang into such great favor4 ,in connection with this fact it is interesting to read ,dr4 ,wiley's testimony that canned fruits properly preserved retain their natural aroma and flavor better than any other form of canned food4 ,the rapidity with which the public discovered the excellence of this ,hawaiian product indicates that fresh pineapples also will gain enormously in favor if the dealers will only supply the fancy kinds in abundance and at reasonable prices4 ,what the enlightened public wants is not only ,flavor1 but variety in ,flavor4 ,pomologist ,william ,a4 ,taylor of the ,united ,states ,bureau of ,plant ,industry has penned a maxim which dealers cannot ponder too much4 ,attractive diversity in appearance and quality stimulates a demand for fruit among consumers4 ,yet1 as another ,government expert attests1 there has for many years been a strong tendency in the ,american fruit trade to urge fruit-growers to reduce the number of varieties in their commercial plantations4 ,the results we see in our markets4 ,of the dozens of choice sorts that are described in the catalogues of nursery and seedsmen only a fraction are offered to consumers4 ,,successful ,,peach-,,growers4 ,the condition into which those pennywise dealers who are indifferent to ,flavor and oppose variety have brought our peach market is a national disgrace and a gastronomic calamity4 ,most of the ,southern peaches sent ,north seem now to be of two or three kinds and those not of the best4 ,to be sure1 it makes little difference what kinds are sent1 for all are equally spoiled by being picked1 like the pineapples1 before they are ripe4 ,california peaches melt in the mouth like ice cream--if eaten in ,california4 ,in the ,east they used to contrast with ,atlantic ,coast peaches by their leathery consistency and lack of ,flavor1 due to the fact that they had to be picked unripe to stand transportation4 ,to-day they contrast less1 because ,eastern peaches also are so usually picked unripe4 ,in the peach-growing business1 under present conditions1 the proportion of failures to successes is at least as ten to one1 according to ,erwin ,f4 ,smith4 ,the proportion might be reversed if this expert's advice1 as given in ,peach-,growing for ,market 7,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #cc71 were generally followed by farmers4 ,the most important point he makes is that the peaches to be marketed successfully must not only have size1 color1 and firmness enough to stand shipment1 but also superior flavor4 ,it was by leaving his peaches on the tree till the sun gave them that superior flavor that one man ,i know of became rich4 ,he had an orchard about twenty miles from ,new ,york and when the first crop had thoroughly ripened he picked a wagonload to take to the city4 ,he never reached it4 ,every basket was sold before he had gone a mile1 and all the other loads were thus disposed of to his neighbors1 although he charged the full ,new ,york retail prices4 ,the middleman's usual share of the plunder remained in his own pocket4 ,what would you think1 ,mr4 ,farmer1 or ,mr4 ,business-,man-,who-,wants-to-,live-in-t he-,country1 of buying a twenty-two-acre tract of worthless pasture land1 putting it into peaches1 and getting therefrom in twelve years a profit of #dd1jjj8 ,it can be done1 and it has been done4 ,the very interesting and instructive story was told in detail in the ,philadelphia ,saturday ,evening ,post of ,september #aj1 #aiaj1 by ,forrest ,crissey4 ,it is the story of ,j4 ,h4 ,hale1 of ,glastonbury1 ,connecticut4 ,one day he came across an old native seedling peach tree1 loaded with sweet wild fruit that had a delicious flavor and melted in his mouth4 ,while he was eating one of these peaches1 the thought came into his mind3 ,if this stony old hillside will grow such peaches as these1 wild and without cultivation1 what is to hinder its producing a splendid crop of choice1 cultivated peaches8 ,there was nothing to hinder2 the trees were planted1 and when they bore fruit he put up a sign reading3 ,headquarters for ,hale's ,peaches4 ,peaches ,ripened on the ,trees4 ,when he began to market them in the cities he sorted them into three grades1 charging fancy prices for the best4 ,these and other details of his method helped2 but the great secret of his success was painted on his sign3 ,peaches ,ripened1 on the ,trees--a sign which proved that he understood the ,commercial ,value of ,flavor1 which made him a millionaire4 ,apples1 fortunately1 do not need to ripen entirely on the tree4 ,they can be picked before they are ripe and get their full flavor in the cellar4 ,cold storage makes them keep longer still--unfortunately1 ,i feel tempted to say1 for this tempts the middleman to hold them for higher prices till they have become mealy and lost much of their aroma4 ,many of the apples sold in our markets in winter are over a year old4 ,they will not be after the consumer rises to assert his right to ,flavor4 ,the ,english are more alert4 ,i most earnestly call the attention of ,american apple-growers and eaters to the following sentences from an article in the ,consular and ,trade ,reports 7,april #e1 #aiaa71 explaining why ,australian apples have an advantage in ,english and other ,european markets over ,american fruit3 ,cold storage extending over a period of six months is not the best means of preserving the flavor of a fruit4 ,on the other hand the ,australian and ,tasmanian crops being six months later than the ,american1 the fruit comes direct from the orchard with its original flavor almost unimpaired4 ,at the ,illinois ,experiment ,station the important fact was demonstrated that mature apples keep much better in cold storage than immature apples 7,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #aic74 ,the new method of pre-cooling fruit1 especially peaches and oranges1 gives much hope for the future4 ,two illustrations in the ,yearbook of the ,department of ,agriculture for #aiji illustrate this point4 ,one pictures peaches as handled and delivered in ,new ,york by the old method--the small1 pallid1 leathery1 flavorless things we all know and groan over4 ,the other shows red1 ripe peaches1 luscious to the eyes and the palate alike4 ,pre-cooling does it2 for if this method is used1 the fruit may be left on the trees to attain a greater degree of maturity1 thus assuming a much better quality4 ,,fortunes ,,from ,,bananas ,,and ,,oranges4 ,when other fruits have vanished1 the banana is always for sale1 even in the smallest village fruit stores4 ,but it was not always so4 ,a few decades ago the banana was a rarity in the ,united ,states and a luxury4 ,how did it happen to get its present vogue8 ,was it because the public discovered that there is a great deal of nourishment in this fruit--that millions in the tropics live on it8 ,not in the least2 ,i doubt if one banana-eater in a hundred knows or cares whether or not it contains even as much nourishment as a cucumber or a watermelon4 ,what has given the banana its great vogue is simply and solely its delicious ,flavor4 ,in its ,flavor lies its commercial value2 its ,flavor has put money--often a fortune--into the pockets of hundreds of thousands of planters1 shippers1 and wholesale and retail dealers4 ,there are whole fleets of steamers for carrying bananas to ,american ports1 and other fleets carry them to ,germany1 to ,england1 to ,france1 and other ,european countries4 ,in ,germany1 #cbj tons supplied the demand in #ahii2 in #aiaa the imports exceeded #cj1jjj tons1 and the demand grows like an avalanche4 ,banana flour1 made from the dried fruit1 also has a great future as a breakfast cereal4 ,a few years ago a new source of profit was opened4 ,have you ever eaten any banana figs8 ,if not1 try them at once2 they are deliciously sweet1 and they can be freely eaten by those who have to avoid figs because of their innumerable small seeds4 ,within a few years seven factories sprang up in ,jamaica1 all of them coining money by making and exporting banana figs as well as fig bananas1 which differ from the others in being dried whole4 ,in #aiab the people of the ,united ,states consumed over six billion bananas1 or more than five dozen for every man1 woman1 and child1 the value of them exceeding fourteen million dollars4 ,yet this enormous demand is a trifle to what it will be when the public has learned how to eat them4 ,few know how delicious they are fried1 or cooked in other ways4 ,as for raw bananas1 most ,americans still eat them with the eyes1 selecting those which are bright yellow 7or red7 and unspotted1 ignorant of the fact that the most luscious by far are those that are spotted or almost black2 the pushcartmen sell them at a cent apiece1 or two for a cent4 ,these are not rotten1 but simply ripe1 as long as they are white inside4 ,they are much more digestible1 too1 than the unspotted ones4 ,to make them still more so1 follow the advice of ,tip of the ,new ,york ,press1 who writes3 ,i have had men and women tell me they couldn't eat bananas at all without suffering from indigestion1 and to them ,i always pass on the recipe told me by a great lover of the fruit who said that invariably he scraped off the little fuzz remaining on the banana after the skin is peeled off4 ,before he began to do this the fruit disagreed with him2 afterward he ate as much of it as he pleased4 ,unlike bananas1 the citrus fruits--oranges1 lemons1 and pomelos 7grapefruit7 have no nutritive value worth talking about4 ,you might eat a hundred of them a day and--well1 if they didn't kill you they wouldn't keep you alive either4 ,consequently the fortunes made by growing annually twenty million boxes of these much-coveted fruits and distributing them throughout the country1 once more attest the ,commercial ,value of ,flavor4 ,and in the long run the best flavored are sure to survive1 even though for a time greenhorns may be fooled into buying inferior kinds because of size or color4 ,,melons1 ,,honey ,,and ,,flavoring ,,extracts4 ,it would be interesting to know how many million dollars ,american farmers earn every year by raising melons4 ,the ,rocky ,ford district in ,colorado alone ships about #a1ejj carloads of cantaloupes1 and these are but a drop in the bucket4 ,nobody would dream of buying melons for food2 their commercial value is entirely a matter of ,flavor4 ,and in proportion as the ,flavor was improved has the raising of melons become more profitable4 ,time was when the old-fashioned mushmelon was tolerated2 but compared with the choice varieties of cantaloupes now in the market it was but one remove from the pumpkin4 ,many insipid melons still find their way into our markets1 but gradually they will be eliminated2 and the sooner this is done1 the better it will be for the dealer's purse as well as the consumer's palate4 ,the manufacturer who advertises that there is only one way to make a cigarette permanently popular and that is to make it permanently good1 knew what he was talking about4 ,in that respect there is no difference between cigarettes and foodstuffs4 ,read what is said on this point in ,farmers' ,bulletin #aic3 ,an explanation of the popularity of the ,rocky ,ford melons is that they are well graded and usually uniform in quality4 ,as ,mr4 ,blinn explains1 the ,rocky ,ford cantaloupe is a product of years of systematic selection1 and it requires the same methods to maintain its excellence as were employed in its development4 ,without care in selection of seed1 the natural tendency to vary will soon cause a good strain of ,rocky ,ford melons to revert to an undesirable type4 ,sweet as honey are the best cantaloupes2 yet how different6 ,the sweetness in them is the same1 for there is only one kind of sweet in the world4 ,what makes them differ is the ,flavor4 ,were it not for its ,flavor1 there would be no honey in the market1 for sugar is a much cheaper sweet4 ,thanks to its ,flavor1 honey is worth to the beekeepers of the ,united ,states #bj1jjj1jjj a year4 ,new ,york ,state alone has #cj1jjj beekeepers1 and it is said that even when eggs sell at #ej cents a dozen the hen stands below the bee as a payer of dividends4 ,and bees need no expensive feed2 one man says he has not fed his in twenty years4 ,twenty millions a year is a goodly sum1 yet it is a mere fraction of what honey will yield when its merits for diverse uses are more generally understood4 ,there are many varieties of it1 their ,flavor depending on the fragrance of the flowers from which the bees collect them--clover1 linden1 sage1 horsemint1 buckwheat1 magnolia1 etc41 but all are agreeable to most persons4 ,american children would hail with delight the ,swiss custom of eating honey with their bread and butter1 and it would do them good1 for honey is one of the most wholesome sweets--much more than most of the candies the boys and girls buy4 ,it is nutritious1 too1 a tablespoonful having the same food value as an egg4 ,but beware of adulterations6 ,some of the best cakes and confections are made of or with honey4 ,girls often make their own fudge--why not all their candies8 ,the manufacturers would still prosper even if one-half the girls should take to making their own sweets2 some of these men are millionaires2 and what made them so is the fact that they realized the ,commercial ,value of ,flavors4 ,the sale of plain1 unflavored sugar is also profitable1 but the percentage of gain is not nearly so great as in the case of candy4 ,flavoring extracts have been called an ,american specialty2 for while they are used considerably by foreign cooks and bakers1 ours are much more addicted to their use4 ,the most popular of all the flavoring extracts is vanilla2 its home is ,mexico1 and we take nearly all the vanilla beans harvested there2 but that does not cover the demand4 ,many firms get rich by making imitation vanilla and other flavors4 ,some of these are strong medicines4 ,the safest place to eat vanilla ice cream is at home where you know it is made of the deliciously fragrant bean and not of coal tar products4 ,most appetizing1 also1 is caramel1 or burnt sugar1 for flavoring desserts4 ,liqueurs are used1 and nuts1 but most desirable and wholesome of all are the flavors made of fruit4 ,think of the commercial value of these fruit flavors--natural or artificial--to thousands of druggists whenever the weather creates a demand for soda water6 ,,opportunities ,,for ,,women4 ,many women make a comfortable living by utilizing their inherited or acquired knowledge of the kind of flavoring that will make certain cakes and candies sell briskly4 ,along these lines there are unlimited opportunities for commercial gain4 ,many novelists have coined large sums by exploiting local color in their tales4 ,there is such a thing as local flavor1 too1 which awaits the attention of the women or men bright enough to utilize it4 ,wild fruits and berries1 for instance1 abound all over the country1 many of them being peculiar to one region4 ,these can be used for imparting their flavor to various fruit syrups1 jams1 and jellies4 ,in the future1 thousands of women will doubtless earn a competence by sending to the city markets preserves with such novel and appetizing local flavors4 ,some are already doing it1 and they have found a demand at the women's exchanges usually far in excess of the supply4 ,the delicious loganberry1 now so plentiful on the ,pacific ,coast1 is hardly known in the ,east4 ,here is a grand opportunity2 and why has no one thought of the commercial possibilities inherent in the luscious mulberry--an incomprehensibly neglected delicacy8 ,there is the salmonberry1 too1 and other good things of the ,west1 notably in ,alaska1 which has been called preeminently a land of small fruits and berries4 ,the flavor of most of the ,alaskan berries was found to be excellent1 by ,walter ,w4 ,evans4#be ,alaska's gold mines will ultimately be exhausted1 but the commercial value of the rich and unique flavors of these fruits and berries will endure4 ,excellent preserves can be made of the wild ,oregon grape1 as well as the service berries1 unknown in the ,east4 ,the dry salal berry of ,oregon and ,washington might be educated and turned to use2 and there are many others4 ,,feeding ,,flavor ,,into ,,food4 ,the present chapter might be made as long as this whole book is1 for the ,flavor is what determines the commercial value of nearly all foodstuffs4 ,i know a young woman who makes deliciously flavored butter and has no trouble in disposing of it for a dollar a pound4 ,thousands of persons who do not like the butter they can buy are now eating peanut butter1 which has the full flavor of the nut4 ,the commercial value of this is shown by the fact that in #aiaa a million bushels of peanuts were converted into butter4 ,fortunes await those who will manufacture almond butter1 because almonds not only have a more delicate flavor but are more digestible than peanuts4 ,storage eggs are quite as nutritious as fresh eggs2 the sole difference is in the ,flavor2 and those of us who can afford to do so1 gladly pay twice as much to get the better flavor4 ,in the preceding chapters ,i have frequently called attention to the greater commercial value of the best-flavored foods--as in the case of the ,bresse chickens1 ,wiltshire bacon1 ,southdown mutton1 ,westphalian ham1 ,hungarian flour1 full-cream cheeses1 etc4 ,for a full list see the index under ,commercial ,value of ,flavor4 ,in this chapter ,i will call attention to only one more way of increasing the value of things we buy to eat4 ,it is perhaps the most important of all methods--one which points the way to many large fortunes4 ,once when ,i crossed the ,atlantic westward on a ,german steamer the supply of eggs1 calculated for nine or ten days1 gave out on the fourth because nearly everybody on board was ordering them constantly4 ,they were the best eggs ,i had ever eaten4 ,the head steward1 on being questioned1 explained that they came from a farm where a special kind of feed was given to the hens4 ,the farmer had fed that ,flavor into the eggs4 ,at once it flashed on me that great and profitable industries might be built up along that line and ,i wrote an article about it for ,the ,epoch4 ,that was more than two decades ago4 ,at that time there was not the same interest there is now in dietary questions4 ,more recently1 the ,department of ,agriculture has taken up the matter and in several of its bulletins reference is made to experiments in feeding both unpleasant and pleasant flavors into food4 ,at the ,north ,carolina ,experiment ,station1 in #aiji1 hens were fed for two weeks on onions1 the result being so strong an onion flavor in the eggs that they could not be used4 ,a week after discontinuing the onions1 the hens again laid eggs of normal flavor4 ,milk and butter are similarly spoiled when the cows eat wild garlic or quantities of turnips4 ,everybody knows1 too1 that some kinds of ducks are not fit to eat because of the fish they live on4 ,in ,egypt a locust diet makes poultry unfit to eat1 and sometimes there are in our markets chickens that are unobjectionable except for an insect tang which mars their flavor4 ,pork from pigs fed on garbage is spoiled by a worse tang4 ,on the other hand1 most animal foods can be improved by feeding desirable flavors into them4 ,grouse are best in blueberry season1 and the flavor of all game varies with its feed4 ,kongo chickens fed on pineapples are said to be a morsel fit for the gods4 ,belgian partridges owe their excellence to the beetroot they feed on4 ,mexican pigs are often fattened on bananas4 ,they must make prime pork4 ,in the chapter on ,england ,i noted that it is chiefly the excellence of the feed 7skim milk and barley7 that determines the superior flavor and commercial value of ,wiltshire bacon4 ,in the good old times1 before our forests were destroyed1 the beechnut was the principal food for swine4 ,the hogs which are fattened by eating the beechnut and acorn produced a species of pork of a peculiar and very highly prized flavor1 writes ,dr4 ,wiley4 ,the celebrated hams and bacons of the southern ,appalachian ranges were produced from the variety of hogs known as the razor-backs fattened on mast1 namely1 the chestnut1 beechnut1 and acorn4 ,yams 7belonging to the sweet-potato class7 also help to flavor these southern pork products4 ,the ham and bacon which made ,virginia beloved of epicures helped also to make the neighboring ,baltimore one of the country's gastronomic centers4 ,in the days when canvasback ducks and diamondback terrapin were abundant ,baltimore was the gourmet's headquarters4 ,there were terrapin palaces in those days1 in ,baltimore and ,philadelphia1 as now there are lobster palaces in all our large cities4 ,it has been stated frequently that the canvasback and redhead ducks and the diamondback terrapin owe their superior flavor to the food they have in common1 the so-called wild celery1 which grows in abundance in ,chesapeake ,bay4 ,now1 this wild celery is no celery at all2 it botanical name is valisneria4 ,a correspondent of the ,philadelphia ,ledger has1 moreover1 cast doubt on the claim that it is the valisneria grass that so agreeably flavors these birds and turtles4 ,he found the ducks feeding greedily on the seeds of a species of pondweed1 potamogeton pectinatus4 ,tasting these seeds he found a distinct flavor of celery and became convinced that it was this and not the valisneria that gave the bird its peculiar flavor4 ,the point ought to be settled by scientific experts1 for if this sportsman is correct in his surmise1 the efforts that are being made to breed and multiply these ducks need not be confined to ,chesapeake ,bay1 as that pondweed is also abundant along the big lakes which separate us from ,canada4 ,why should not farmers cultivate this weed in ponds and improve the flavor of the ordinary domestic duck8 ,the flavor imparted by the potamogeton--or the valisneria--is so rich that when a canvasback is cooked it needs no dressing1 not even salt4 ,an ,american consul in ,mexico calls attention to the fact that the rivers and lagoons of that country literally swarm with turtles4 ,the wastes of water hyacinth are simply alive with them4 ,these turtles1 he says1 are fat and fine of flesh and under careful handling would give a good return to the man who undertakes to ship them to the ,united ,states4 ,there is a small swamp turtle called the 'pochitoque1' which is of extremely fine flesh and flavor4 ,it is found in great numbers in the swamps and lands that are annually overflowed in the ,state of ,tobasco and is very similar and quite equal to the famous diamondback turtle4 ,this also could be readily shipped to northern markets4 ,it is not quite so abundant as the river turtle1 but would find ready sale at fancy prices in view of the diminishing supply of the diamondback4 ,in these days1 when there is so much complaint about all trades and occupations being overcrowded1 it is strange that no one should have the sagacity to see the commercial value of catering to the demand for fine turtles4 ,sea and pond farming of all kinds holds in it a greater promise of wealth than all the world's mines4 ,terrapin-growing will be one of the great industries of the future4 ,it is worth noting that the old ,roman epicures already had their ponds for rearing fishes of superior flavor as well as aviaries for feeding flavor into birds4 ,nero's fish pond was discovered in #aiac4 ,lucullus and ,apicius had aviaries in which thrushes and blackbirds were fattened for their tables on a paste made with figs1 wheaten meal and aromatic grain4 ,but such things were only for the very rich4 ,what we want1 and will get if we insist on it1 are delicacies for the million4 ,most if not all animal foods can be improved by feeding desirable flavors into them4 ,in ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #bjj the well-known poultry expert1 ,t4 ,f4 ,mc,grew1 says that those who grow turkeys for a fancy market give them chestnuts and celeryseed during the last few weeks of fattening4 ,such feeding1 he adds1 imparts a flavor which makes the meat worth from nine to twelve cents a pound more than that of ordinary turkeys4 ,yet to grow the best is quite as easy and but little more expensive than to grow the poorer grades1 and the profit gained is almost double4 ,could the commercial value of ,flavor be more triumphantly demonstrated8 ,if the best costs but little more to produce than the poorest1 why not cater to the million and make millions8 ,why pay so much attention to breed when1 as another expert1 ,s4 ,m4 ,tracey1 attests 7,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #ajj71 management and feed are more important than breed8 ,we have over a hundred varieties of chickens1 but the best of them1 improperly fed1 are not so good to eat as inferior varieties that have had the right kind of feed during the last two or three weeks4 ,that hogs1 too1 and other animals1 need to have fancy feed only a few weeks to give them a flavor that commands a high price1 is a matter of extreme importance from an economic point of view4 ,producers of meat--and other foods--would make much more money if1 instead of offering the poorest that people will buy at the highest price1 they supplied the best at the lowest price4 ,other merchants discovered this truth long ago4 ,,farmers1 ,,middlemen1 ,,and ,,parcel ,,post4 ,thousands of families in ,germany and ,france have been able for years to indulge in the luxury of getting daily pats of fresh butter1 as well as new-laid eggs1 freshly-killed chickens1 and succulent vegetables straight from the farmer's garden1 thanks to the parcel postman4 ,we1 too1 now have a parcel post and many look on it as a means of lowering the cost of living4 ,it is that1 no doubt2 but it is more important from another point of view3 it enables those who are fastidious as to what they eat to dodge the greengrocer who tries to foist on them farm produce which is not fresh and flavorsome2 as well as poultrymen who refuse to heed the demand for fresh-killed fowls4 ,new plans for bringing the consumer into direct contact with the producer are discussed in the press every other day1 and there is a great deal of talk about eliminating the middlemen4 ,some of these undoubtedly ought to be ousted4 ,there is no need of having four kinds of them--transportation agents1 wholesalers1 jobbers1 and retailers4 ,some of these could be dispensed with1 especially those who speculate in food products4 ,to make war on retailers is an excusable proceeding1 because of their frequent extortionate charges2 yet we could not get along entirely without them4 ,not all of us can deal directly with the farmer1 and those of us who do so are sure to find some day that he has sold his last turkey or his last head of lettuce--and then we have to fall back on the grocer or the butcher4 ,without the latter1 where would we get some of our meats8 ,if he is honest and knows his business1 as he usually is and does1 he is a specialist in the judging1 handling1 and cutting of meats4 ,for this knowledge1 and for the opportunity he gives us to buy any kind of meat we want at any time1 he deserves to be paid1 and well paid4 ,the chief trouble about the retail middlemen is that there are too many of them4 ,they declare that there are more failures in their trade than in any other1 and no wonder4 ,in the fierce struggle for existence they resort to all sorts of tricks to deceive customers--an evil of which enough has been said in these pages4 ,if one-half of these retailers could be transferred to the country1 to become growers of food instead of distributors1 there would be few failures and the cost of living would be reduced4 ,there is no doubt whatever that the ever-rising price of foodstuffs is due chiefly to the alarming increase in the number of consumers1 with a corresponding decrease in the number of producers4 ,particularly unfortunate is the disinclination of farmers to raise vegetables and small fruits for the market1 or even for their own tables in many cases4 ,western ,canada1 we read1 presents the peculiar anomaly of a wonderfully productive agricultural country importing most of its food products4 ,special efforts were made during #aiaa to awaken the farmers to the value of mixed farming1 but without much success4 ,the same trouble exists in the ,united ,states1 even in regions where the soil is less adapted for the growing of wheat by the mile than in ,western ,canada4 ,yet it has been proved again and again that much more money can be made by intensive methods on small farms than by growing grain on a large scale4 ,it was this discovery that led to the decrease in the acreage of wheat grown in ,california and ,oregon4 ,i have made a careful study of the conditions of agriculture in the ,santa ,clara1 ,san ,jose and ,sacramento valleys1 and ,i am irresistibly led to the conclusion that the great ranches must be broken up into small holdings before permanent prosperity can come to the farmers of the ,pacific ,coast1 remarks ,professor ,isaac ,roberts1 ,dean of the ,college of ,agriculture1 ,cornell ,university1 in an admirable little book published by the ,orang ,judd ,company4 ,it is entitled ,ten ,acres ,enough1 and is just the book for those who feel inclined to leave the overcrowded cities and lead a busy but prosperous life in the country4 ,illustration3 ,chinese ,canal ,to realize what could be done to increase this country's natural resources1 read ,professor ,f4 ,h4 ,king's article in the ,national ,geographic ,magazine for ,october1 #aiab1 describing ,china's wonderful system of canals for transportation1 drainage1 irrigation1 and fertilization1 with the aid of which a population of #djj1jjj1jjj1 tilling a region not a third as large as the ,united ,states1 has subsisted for thousands of years4 ,we need not go as far as ,china1 however1 for a good example4 ,the market gardens of ,paris1 to which reference was made in ,chapter ,,vii1 convincingly prove the commercial wisdom of intensive farming and of providing city folk with the tenderest and most flavorsome vegetables1 berries1 and fruits4 ,we have too much long-distance food 7canned or frozen72 what we want is short-distance produce4 ,paris is the model for us2 it enjoys what ,professor ,ferrero1 in ,le ,figaro1 has rightly called the ideal condition1 being a city fed by fresh supplies from the adjacent country4 ,our aim should be to make each of our large cities a hub connected by thousands of spokes with suburban market gardens4 ,in these gardens women as well as men can find employment2 it has been claimed that their careful truck farming in garden and field shows better results than the work of men4 ,short-distance farming increases profits by decreasing transportation charges4 ,a vivid illustration of future possibilities is given by an expert in these words3 ,long ,island is about the size of ,holland4 ,its population is about the same4 ,the produce taken out of the soil in ,holland is twenty-one times that which is taken from the soil of ,long ,island4 ,if ,long ,island were brought under proper cultivation it alone would produce the larger part of the vegetable products required by the six millions of people in ,new ,york ,city and vicinity4 ,the retail middleman and the parcel post would in that case suffice4 ,at present the big profits in the food business go chiefly to the gambling middlemen--the jobbers4 ,this must be changed4 ,possibly the prices will not become lower2 but if the method just suggested is carried out1 the quality 7flavor7 of the food we eat will be vastly improved and the profits will go to those who deserve them--the market gardeners4 ,let us do all we can to make their work as alluring and profitable as possible in order to greatly increase their numbers4 ,to the lowering of the cost of food we ourselves can largely attend by stopping our sinful waste and taking to heart the methods taught in the preceding pages of economizing in our food without lowering its nutritive value or diminishing its pleasurableness4 ,illustration ,,xiii ,,gastronomic ,,value ,,of ,,odors ,,sweet1 ,,sour1 ,,salt1 ,,and ,,bitter4 ,in the ,london ,zoo one day1 as we were nearing the bear den1 we heard the most heartrending cries on the part of one of its denizens4 ,it sounded as if some bruin were being murdered or vivisected4 ,in reality1 the wails and tears were all due to the fact that one of the animals wanted more--more of the jam which an attendant was distributing to his charges in turn by the spoonful4 ,that bear had a particularly sweet tooth2 but is not bruin proverbial for his love of wild honey8 ,it is a casus belli with many a swarm of bees4 ,if you wish to make a horse love you1 let him take cubes of sugar from the palm of your hand4 ,as for dogs1 they are supposed to be about as carnivorous as carnivorous can be2 yet ,i have heard of a dog who1 for months1 daily brought a basket of meat from the village butcher and never touched it2 but one morning some horehound candy was put in the basket and that was too much for his integrity2 he stopped on the way and ate it all up4 ,i felt inclined to doubt that story until ,i found that ,laddie1 my own beautiful collie1 invariably was much more eager for sugar than for meat 7with the possible exception of imported ,lyons sausage74 ,candy and sweetened cream are his ideas of ambrosia and nectar4 ,to make friends with cows and sheep you need salt4 ,with a few handfuls of it in your pocket you can soon make them leave the richest grass and come crowding around you when you take your daily walk in the fields4 ,we ourselves crave salt in food1 but we do not lick it eagerly as some domestic as well as wild animals do4 ,in ,central ,africa1 however1 where it is a luxury hard to get1 men and women devour it with the same zest that our youngsters show for candy4 ,so far as ,i know1 no animal likes sour things2 plain water would be invariably preferred to lemonade4 ,cows and pigs1 to be sure1 eagerly eat apples1 and other fruits1 and so do horses2 they eat them though they be sour2 but if you give them a whole bushel1 they pick out the sweet ones first4 ,the liking for sour things is a human attribute4 ,school children are often more eager for a pickle than for a stick of candy2 and adults as well as the young ones enjoy tart or sub-acid fruits of all kinds4 ,what could be better than a pie or a tart made of green gooseberries or sour currants8 ,i would give all the confectionery and sweet cakes in the world for a tree of sour cherries4 ,of the delights of sour salads ,i wrote at length in the chapter on ,french supremacy4 ,bitter herbs are eaten sometimes by browsing animals1 but ,i doubt if they would select them by choice4 ,the liking for bitter foods and drinks is not only a human attribute2 it is a specifically epicurean trait4 ,how very much better ,scotch marmalade made of bitter oranges is than marmalade made of ordinary oranges6 ,slightly bitter also is the best pomelo4 ,bitter almond is a favorite flavoring for cakes and candies4 ,the best of all salads1 escarole and the endive tribe in general1 are bitter4 ,bottled bitters are widely used as appetizers4 ,physicians of all periods have agreed that bitter substances increase the appetite4 ,professor ,pawlow considers them the strongest of all stimulants to a jaded palate4 ,he inclines to the belief that bitters not only act directly on the gustatory nerves in the mouth1 but that they also act on the mucous membrane of the stomach in such a way that sensations are generated which contribute to the passionate craving for food4 ,a ,,comedy ,,of ,,errors4 ,while thus admitting the gastronomic and therapeutic value of bitters1 ,i must nevertheless call attention to the fact that their allurements1 as mere sensations of taste1 are not considerable4 ,we would not care so much for ,scotch marmalade as we do were it not for the pungent fragrance of the ,seville orange which accompanies its bitter taste2 or for the bitter grapefruit were it not so highly perfumed4 ,hops are valued for their tonic bitter but still more for their agreeable odor1 without which beer1 for instance1 is a flat failure4 ,we never eat quinine for fun1 because it has no fragrance to modify its intense bitter2 nor1 for the same reason1 would we use strychnine as a condiment even though it were as harmless as sugar4 ,now1 what is true of bitter1 is true also of all other sensations of taste--salt1 sour1 and sweet4 ,considered as mere sensations of taste they have no great gastronomic value--not great at any rate when compared with the sensations of smell4 ,on this point ,i need not dwell1 as ,i discussed it briefly in ,chapter ,,ii under the headings of ,an ,amazing ,blunder and ,a ,new ,psychology of ,eating1 in which ,i pointed out that there is only one unvarying kind of sour and one unvarying kind of sweet and that all the varied and countless pleasures of the table are due chiefly to the sense of smell which enables us to enjoy them if we breathe out through the nose while munching our food4 ,to this day it seems almost incredible that it should have remained for me to make this extremely important discovery2 yet all my researches have failed to bring to light a psychologist who anticipated me4 ,my surprise abated somewhat at the time when the theory was first announced that mosquitoes are responsible for malaria4 ,having just read ,humboldt's travels in ,south ,america and ,stanley's ,darkest ,africa1 ,i remembered that both of these writers had come within an inch of the truth1 yet missed it completely4 ,the case of ,stanley is really comic4 ,emin ,pasha had informed him that he always took a mosquito curtain with him1 as he believed that it was an excellent protector against miasmatic exhalations of the night4 ,now1 how in the world could these miasmatic exhalations 7which were held responsible for malaria7 have been kept out by a mosquito net when1 as ,stanley does not fail to note1 the same air enters by the doors of the house and under the flaps and through ventilators to poison the inmates8 ,just as in this case the fixed idea that bad air 7malaria7 must be responsible for the disease obscured the truth1 so the undeserved homage bestowed on the sense of taste blinded those who wrote on this subject1 including ,brillat-,savarin4 ,in his ,physiology of ,taste he has a chapter on the senses in which he beats around the bush in the most ridiculous way4 ,he knew that if you have a cold1 or hold your nose while eating1 no flavor is perceived in anything that is swallowed2 yet from this he inferred that all sense of taste is obliterated1 although the simplest experiment would have shown him that a cold does not affect the sensations of sweet1 sour1 salt1 bitter1 alkaline1 or metallic in the least2 and after several pages of argumentation he comes to the absurd conclusion that there is no complete perception of taste unless the sense of smell have a share in the sensation1 and that1 in fact1 smell and taste form only one sense1 having the mouth as laboratory with the nose for fireplace or chimney4 ,you might as well say that sight and hearing form only one sense4 ,dr4 ,charles ,henry ,piesse1 member of the ,royal ,college of ,surgeons1 is another author who came within half an inch of the truth1 yet missed it4 ,he wrote a little volume1 ,olfactics and the ,physical ,senses1 which is full of interesting facts and suggestions4 ,two citations1 the first from ,the ,art of ,perfumery1 written by ,dr4 ,piesse's father1 the second from ,olfactics1 will show how warm these two men got in their search1 as the children say in their play4 ,to the unlearned nose all odors are alike2 but when tutored1 either for pleasure or profit1 no member of the body is more sensitive4 ,wine merchants1 tea brokers1 drug dealers1 tobacco importers1 and many others1 have to go through a regular educational nasal course4 ,a hop merchant buries his nose in a pocket1 takes a sniff1 and then sets his price upon the bitter flower4 ,the odors have to be remembered1 and it is noteworthy here to remark with what persistence odors do fix themselves upon the memory2 and were it not for this remembrance of an odor1 the merchants in the trades above indicated would soon be at fault4 ,an experienced perfumer will have two hundred odors in his laboratory1 and can distinguish every one by name4 ,when the breath is held the most odorous substances may be spread in the interior of the nostrils without their perfume being perceived4 ,this observation was first made by ,galen4 ,it has been frequently remarked that odors are smelt only during inspiration2 the same air1 when returned through the nostrils1 always proving inodorous4 ,but this is true only when the odor has been admitted from without by the nostrils1 for when it is admitted by the mouth1 as in combination with articles of nutrition1 it can be perceived during expiration through the nose4 ,yet this man1 who thus came so near the truth1 missed it as widely as all the others6 ,throughout his books he talks as if taste were it4 ,the number of different tastes1 or flavors is1 of course1 unlimited1 he says2 whereas1 let me say it once more1 there are only six tastes3 sweet1 salt1 sour1 bitter1 metallic and alkaline4 ,again1 he remarks that the importance of possessing a pure and cultivated sense of taste is very great in certain trades and professions1 as1 for instance1 the occupation of a wine-taster1 a tea-taster1 a coffee-taster4 ,these persons are all gourmets2 the word gourmet signifying a taster4 ,wrong1 from beginning to end4 ,coffee1 tea1 and wine tasters--the men who sample these articles to adjudge their commercial value--are guided entirely by their ,flavor1 that is1 their appeal to the sense of smell2 while epicures owe nine-tenths of their enjoyment of food to that sense and only one-tenth to the sense of taste4 ,even ,professor ,dr4 ,gustav ,jger1 the famous apostle of all-wool for man's wear1 missed the mark4 ,he wrote a book1 ,die ,entdeckung der ,seele1 in which he tried to prove that smell is really the most important of our senses1 the olfactory nerve being in fact the seat of the soul6 ,yet this ardent advocate entirely failed to see the truth ,i have set forth in this book--the fact that to the sense of smell we owe most of the countless pleasures of the table1 with all their important digestive and hygienic consequences4 ,just like all the other misguided writers on this subject1 he speaks of differences in taste between lobster and crawfish1 or between the eggs of hens1 ducks1 geese1 and so on1 although it is the nose and not the tongue that enables us to tell them apart4 ,,how ,,flavor ,,differs ,,from ,,fragrance4 ,throughout this volume ,i have used the word ,flavor as if it were virtually synonymous with odor1 fragrance1 aroma4 ,strictly speaking1 it is not1 for taste usually enters as an ingredient2 but from a gastronomic point of view the taste is usually so subordinate that it is almost negligible4 ,to say it once more1 we hardly enjoy vinegar unless it is fragrant1 and while we like the taste of sugar we gladly pay from five to thirty times as much for it when it is flavored and sold as candy4 ,in the great ,oxford ,dictionary two definitions of the word flavor are given4 ,it means1 in the best literary usage1 either a smell1 odor1 aroma1 pure and simple2 or it means the element in the taste of a substance which depends on the coperation of the sense of smell4 ,if asked for my own definition ,i should say that flavor is the odor of a substance as perceived in breathing out through the nose while we are eating1 and usually accompanied by a sweet1 sour1 salt1 or bitter taste4 ,this distinguishes flavor from fragrance1 which we perceive in breathing in through the nose2 as1 the fragrance of a rose or a violet--and this is not accompanied by a taste4 ,a strawberry has both fragrance and flavor4 ,persons who cannot eat strawberries may still enjoy their fragrance1 which is subtler and more delicious than the flavor4 ,we must try to overcome the foolish prejudice against smelling at things 7apples1 oranges1 etc47 at table2 for the fragrance of foods also stimulates the appetite and thus helps digestion4 ,when quinces or pomegranates 7melon gourds7 are ripe ,i often carry one in my pocket1 so that ,i may enjoy its exquisite and beneficial fragrance after meals4 ,cantaloupes1 pineapples1 pomelos 7grapefruit71 ripe peaches1 and some apples and plums are fruits with a fragrance which is even more delicious than their flavor4 ,in other cases--particularly cherries and pears--the flavor is much more important2 and in some instances the fragrance is positively disagreeable while the flavor is exquisite4 ,this is true of the durion4 ,dr4 ,paludanus informs us that to those not used to it1 it seems at first to smell like rotten onions1 but immediately they have tasted it they prefer it to all other food4 ,the great naturalist1 ,alfred ,russell ,wallace1 says of it in his great work on the ,malayan ,archipelago that the more you eat of it the less you feel inclined to stop4 ,in fact1 to eat durions is a rare sensation1 worth a voyage to the ,east to experience4 ,i remember reading in the ,london ,telegraph1 many years ago1 an editorial1 presumably by ,sir ,edwin ,arnold1 entitled ,the ,king ,is ,eating ,durions4 ,it described ,his ,majesty as being so completely absorbed in this task that his subjects had orders1 on penalty of death1 not to disturb him even if war should suddenly be declared4 ,the natives give it honorable titles1 exalt it1 make verses on it4 ,cannot our ,bureau of ,plant ,industry acclimate this gastronomic marvel somewhere within hailing distance8 ,tobacco is one of those things the fragrance of which is more agreeable than the flavor4 ,the time will come when smoking will be given up and tobacco simply burnt1 like incense4 ,that will make it harmless1 although it will still be as offensive to some as to others it is delightful4 ,,important ,,functions ,,of ,,the ,,nose4 #a4 ,the fate of innumerable girls has been decided by a slight upward or downward curvature of the nose1 wrote ,schopenhauer2 and ,pascal declared that if ,cleopatra's nose had been but a trifle larger the whole political geography of this planet might have been different4 ,owing to the fact that the nasal organ occupies the most prominent part of the face1 ,professor ,kollmann remarks that the partial or complete loss of the nose causes a greater disfigurement than a much greater fault of configuration in any other part of the face4 ,of all our features the nose has always been considered the most aristocratic1 as well as an important condition of beauty4 #b4 ,no less important is the nose as a condition of beautiful speech and song4 ,jean de ,reszke1 the greatest tenor and vocal teacher of our time1 goes so far as to say that la grande question du chant devient une question du nez4 ,unless the stream of tone1 when we speak or sing1 goes through the nose it lacks beauty and resonance2 yet with consistent stupidity we have bestowed the word nasal on the sounds produced when the nose is not used as a resonator or sounding board6 ,to fully comprehend the important musico-philological function of the nose in giving beauty and variety to tones1 read ,chapter ,,iii of ,prof4 ,g4 ,h4 ,meyer's ,the ,organs of ,speech4 #c4 ,the nose is a sort of funnel for warming the air before it enters the sensitive lungs4 #d4 ,it is1 furthermore1 an apparatus for filtering the air on its way to the lungs1 which is done with the aid of fine hairs and cilia in the nostrils4 ,persons who breathe through the mouth have at the age of thirty a gramme of dust in their lungs which they can never get rid of4 ,mouth-breathing is a cause of catarrh1 of unrefreshing sleep1 of snoring4 ,moreover1 in the words of ,dr4 ,t4 ,r4 ,french1 the habit of breathing through the mouth interferes with general nutrition4 ,the subjects of this habit are usually anemic1 spare and dyspeptic4 #e4 ,the nose is a sentinel1 warning us not to tarry where the air is malodorous and dangerous to health4 #f4 ,lavender water1 eau-de-,cologne1 attar of roses1 and other perfumes are1 as everybody knows1 effective in curing headaches and resting the tired mind4 ,the ,scotsman tells an interesting story of ,sir ,william ,temple's visit to the ,india ,house of ,amsterdam where he and his companions were exalted by the tonic effect of the spices and aromas about them4 ,john ,evelyn proposed to make ,london the healthiest and happiest city in ,christendom by planting all around it hedgerows of sweetbriar1 rosemary1 jasmine1 etc4 ,the feeling of relief which delights us when we leave the city and step out of the railway car comes from the natural fragrance of the trees1 herbs1 and flowers4 ,this fragrance makes us breathe deeply1 and deep breathing is the greatest of all tonics1 as well as a preventive of colds and consumption4 ,a gardener has written of the thrilling fragrance of sweet peas1 and it is not too strong a word2 ,i myself have often been thrilled by their fragrance1 or that of lilies1 pinks1 or hyacinths wafted across the garden like sweet concords of music4 ,about ten million dollars a year is the amount spent in the ,united ,states on perfumery4 ,the best perfumes are still1 and always will be1 the natural ones1 made in the ,riviera and ,roumania4 ,grasse1 in southern ,france1 alone uses #a1bjj tons of roses1 #bjj tons of jasmine blossoms1 and nearly as many tons of violets every year4 ,of chemical imitations of the natural perfumes ,germany produces annually about #ab1jjj1jjj worth4 ,when we try to guess the amount of perfumery the world needs for toilet powders1 sachets1 dentifrices1 and soaps1 we realize what an important part the nose plays in commerce4 ,the nation's candy bill exceeds a hundred million dollars a year2 and candy is perfumed sugar4 ,the value of the world's annual tobacco crop is about #bjj1jjj1jjj1 and the appeal of tobacco is1 of course1 chiefly to the nose4 ,some dolt wrote1 many years ago1 that if you blindfold a smoker he cannot tell the difference between good and bad tobacco4 ,he was evidently anosmic--one of a considerable number of persons whose sense of smell is not developed4 ,to normal smokers the value of a cigar lies in its fragrance1 and it is their superior fragrance that makes the product of ,cuba the most costly of all cigars4 #g4 ,the seventh and most important function of the nose is the one which--mirabile dictu--it remained for me to discover--the function of perceiving and enjoying the countless varieties of flavor that are developed in the food we eat4 ,to what ,i have already said in proof of this assertion let me add that the nerves of taste are affected by liquids1 and those of smell by gases2 and the flavored air we breathe out while eating is certainly not liquid6 ,,educating ,,the ,,sense ,,of ,,smell4 ,dr4 ,piesse errs in saying that the sense of taste can and should be educated4 ,it needs no educating2 sweet is distinguished from sour1 salt and bitter from the earliest infancy1 and that is all there is to it4 ,the sense of smell1 on the other hand1 can and should be educated systematically4 ,kant's reason for saying that it is not worth cultivating was that1 in populous regions1 particularly1 there are more disagreeable than agreeable odors4 ,he might as well have advised against educating the eyes and the ears because in our cities there are more offensive sights and sounds than agreeable ones4 ,an educated sense of smell objects to malodorous surroundings and therefore prompts sanitary reforms4 ,much has been done in this direction since the days of ,kant4 ,the next reform will be to absolutely demand clean1 sweet air in schools1 theaters1 and concert halls4 ,the principal reason for educating the sense of smell is to protect us against the danger of eating spoiled food1 and to enable us thoroughly to enjoy the countless pleasures of the table--dwelt on in this book--on which a good appetite depends4 ,the significance of this was understood by ,shakespeare when he wrote3 ,now good digestion wait on appetite ,and health on both4 ,ants are the most intelligent of all insects4 ,their antenn are organs of smell and so much is their world a world of odors that1 as ,sir ,john ,lubbock ascertained1 an ant accidentally born without antenn seemed to be as helpless as a blind person among ourselves4 ,many mammals are greatly dependent on this sense1 and there was a time when a large part of the human brain was assigned to its perceptions4 ,more and more the impressions of sight gained on it4 ,the process has gone too far2 we must once more strengthen and develop our olfactory nerves and encourage the expansion of the olfactory region in the brain4 ,the way to do it has been dwelt on repeatedly in the preceding pages4 ,i have taught several persons who were partly anosmic to learn after a short time to distinguish between different foods that had previously tasted alike to them2 they simply followed my advice of breathing out slowly and consciously through the nose while eating4 ,keep those two words--particularly consciously--in mind4 ,never eat in an absent-minded way2 and if you are a host or a hostess1 please do not tell your guest interesting stories at the moment when he is trying to do justice to the good things you have placed before him6 ,children should be told every time they bolt their food or candy that the pleasure of eating lies not in the swallowing of it1 but in keeping it in the mouth as long as possible and breathing out through the nose4 ,that will make epicures of them1 able to tell good food from bad and thus escape many an illness4 ,how acute the sense of smell can be made is shown by the fact that it will perceive and distinguish the #a1cjj1jjjth part of a grain of attar of roses4 ,it is said that the inmates of an asylum for the blind1 whose other senses are sharpened by the loss of sight1 can tell on entering a dining-room what viands are on the table4 ,de gustibus non est disputandum4 ,true2 we are all entitled to our likes and dislikes2 but many differences of taste are simply differences in development and acuteness of the sense of smell4 ,to those in whom this sense is blunted1 sweet 7unsalted7 butter may seem insipid2 but should they maintain that it is insipid8 ,to ,turner a man once said he could not see in nature such colors as he used on his canvases4 ,the great painter promptly replied3 ,don't you wish you could8 ,epicures are usually born with a keen sense of smell4 ,once1 in crossing a bleak pass in the ,alps1 ,i said to my companion3 ,i smell an orchid6 ,after considerable search we found it--a tiny blossom--some ten feet from the road4 ,that orchid explains why ,i have written this book4 ,,coffee1 ,,tea1 ,,and ,,temperance4 ,a general educating of the sense of smell may not solve the temperance problem1 but it will be a great help4 ,it would be a blessing if every liquor saloon in the country could be closed4 ,most of the whiskey and other strong drink sold--at an enormous profit--in these places is adulterated in ways which often make it infinitely more harmful than the pure article would be1 under any circumstances4 ,but the unadulterated is an evil1 too1 because it is usually drunk in excess4 ,it has been said of the native ,african that he wants something with a bite in it and is not satisfied with a drink that does not go down his throat like a torchlight procession4 ,but the ,african is not alone in this peculiarity4 ,there are many thousands of whites who want their whiskey or rum fiery above all things2 and they want it that way because their sense of smell is not educated to appreciate the higher qualities of liquors--their fragrance1 or bouquet4 ,it is a fact1 as a well-known mixer of fancy drinks once remarked1 that there are very few good judges of liquor4 ,it is a very old chestnut to set out whiskey when brandy has been called for1 and not one in ten can tell the difference4 ,there are few people who can distinguish between high and low priced wines4 ,the difference between the best wines and the poorest lies chiefly in this1 that the best have a maximum of bouquet and a minimum of alcohol4 ,the bouquet is exhilarating1 like the alcohol1 yet is perfectly harmless4 ,on the bouquet depends the commercial as well as the gastronomic value of wines almost entirely4 ,now1 while some persons who are addicted to strong drink may be hopeless cases1 there are thousands who might be saved by teaching them that by educating their sense of smell to the appreciation of bouquet they can get infinitely more pleasure from a refined sort of indulgence than from the bestial alcoholic intoxication which is followed by nausea1 headache1 by nights and days of misery1 by poverty and deadly diseases4 ,drunkenness and gluttony are no longer respectable1 or even semi-respectable1 and further progress in the same direction may be hoped for through efforts at reform along the lines ,i have indicated4 ,a true epicure would no more dull the edge of his appetite for future pleasures of the table by over-indulgence in food or drink than a barber would think of whittling kindling wood with his razor4 ,whiskey drinkers are far from being the only topers4 ,there are also a great many tea and coffee topers4 ,a writer in the ,journal of the ,american ,medical ,association describes the case of a woman1 a member of the ,temperance ,union in her town1 who was a coffee drunkard1 having been living for months on little beside black coffee1 till she was a wreck4 ,such cases are common2 they have led to the manufacture on a large scale of diverse substitutes for coffee1 some of which are not at all bad if taken with sugar and cream4 ,some relief is also coming through the increased demand for cocoa1 which has the advantage over tea and coffee of being a real food4 ,in the period from #ahhh to #aiaa imports of cocoa into the ,united ,states increased from #f1fjj1jjj pounds to #acd1jjj1jjj1 while those of coffee increased only from #djd1jjj1jjj to #hjj1jjj1jjj pounds1 and those of tea from #fh1jjj1jjj to #ajd1jjj1jjj pounds4 ,that tea is the worst enemy of the ,irish peasantry was the burden of a blue book issued a few years ago by the ,inspectors of ,irish schools4 ,the tea is so prepared for use that the liquid1 when drunk1 has the properties of a slow poison4 ,the teapot stewing on the hearth all day long is kept literally on tap2 the members of the family1 young as well as old1 resorting to it at discretion4 ,illustration3 ,javanese ,tea-picker and ,porter ,it is not only among the peasantry and the city slums that improperly made tea does its deadly work4 ,among the well-to-do1 in all countries1 it is far from being in all cases1 as it is supposed to be1 the cup which cheers but not inebriates4 ,the strong coffee-colored four-o'clock tea served in ,english and ,american homes is a gastronomic atrocity2 it is bad for heart1 nerves1 and stomach4 ,in the ,united ,states1 in nine cases out of ten1 the tea served is an inky fluid1 bitter as gall1 and devoid of fragrance4 ,when our ,government forbade the importation of artificially colored teas1 ,consul ,west wrote from ,japan that the planters were induced by this measure to make greater efforts in future to improve the flavor rather than the color and the appearance of the tea4 ,the ,flavor is1 indeed1 the one thing to be considered in raising high-class tea2 also1 in preparing it4 ,the art of brewing a good cup of tea consists in making it in such a way as to secure a maximum of fragrance and a minimum of the tannin1 which is bad for the digestion1 and the theine1 which is a nerve poison4 ,the rules for making tea may be found in any good cook book4 ,the main points are that the water should never remain on the leaves more than from three to five minutes1 and that the teapot should be thoroughly heated because it is only at the boiling point that some of the volatile properties of the leaves1 on which the aroma depends1 can be properly extracted4 ,a little sugar to sweeten it is permissible2 it does not alter the flavor4 ,milk or cream do2 wherefore tea-drinkers who are epicures and like to enjoy the unique fragrance of different kinds of tea1 reject them4 ,the commercial and gastronomic value of coffee is determined by the amount of the aromatic volatile oil which develops in the process of roasting4 ,this fragrant oil is called caffeone4 ,but coffee also has another active principle1 an alkaloid called caffeine1 which has a strong effect on the vascular and nervous systems and is used as a medicine4 ,now1 the art of making good coffee consists in eliminating1 as far as possible1 the effects of the caffeine while developing those of the caffeone4 ,to the caffeine are due the wakefulness and digestive disturbances caused by coffee2 while the flavorsome caffeone produces the harmless exhilarating effects4 ,coffee-roasting is a science which every housewife should study and practise2 its neglect accounts for the fact that one so seldom gets a fragrant cup of coffee4 ,the grinding should be done just before the coffee is prepared1 and it should be drunk at once4 ,families having plenty of storage room should buy coffee by wholesale as it improves with age and yields a more mellow beverage4 ,dealers do not favor this storing because the beans lose weight thereby4 ,wash the beans before roasting them1 and you will have the material for brewing a good cup of coffee4 ,an effort is being made in ,europe to substitute for coffee and tea a beverage which1 while having their refreshing effect1 contains so small a proportion of the alkaloid substance as to be comparatively harmless1 namely mat4 ,in ,argentina the use of the mat leaf has increased enormously in recent years1 the annual consumption averaging nearly twenty pounds per person1 and in ,paraguay it is even as high as twenty-nine pounds per inhabitant4 ,north ,americans and ,europeans have taken to it much more slowly1 owing1 it is said1 to the crude way of preparing the leaves--the drying of them over an open fire1 which gives them a smoky flavor4 ,but it is claimed that superior methods of preparation will make mat a powerful rival of coffee and tea1 all the more as it is much cheaper4 ,a pound of it makes five times as many cups as a pound of coffee2 and1 unlike tea leaves1 the mat leaves can be used for a second infusion without impairment of the quality4 ,in beverages1 as in foods1 ,flavor is the decisive factor4 ,the natural flavor of mat seems to be as agreeable as that of tea or coffee1 but it is apt to be marred by the suggestion of smoke just referred to4 ,if this can be eliminated1 and if it is true that mat1 though containing less caffeine than either tea or coffee1 is even more stimulating and sustaining1 then ,paraguay tea seems destined to be the domestic beverage of the future4 ,,index ,a ,adulterated and denatured foods1 #ad-ci1 #dj1 #ff-aaf1 #cea1 #dda1 #ebh4 ,alaskan berries1 #edf4 ,alcoholic drinks1 #ege4 ,alligator pears1 #bdj4 ,allyn1 ,l4 ,b41 #ebh4 ,america1 ,gastronomic3 specialties1 #c2 traditions1 #d2 missionaries1 #e2 most important problem1 #db2 progress1 #aha2 cooking in schools1 #ahb2 electric1 on battleships1 #bja2 fat in diet1 #bbd2 in ,paris1 #beh2 sausages1 #cdh2 fruit1 #dcb2 breakfasts1 #ddj2 chapter ,,xi2 corn1 sweet1 and corn bread1 #dea2 griddle cakes and maple syrup1 #dei2 pies1 #dff2 cranberries1 #dga2 turkeys and game1 #dgc2 game1 #dgh2 seafood1 #dhj2 ,new ,york lunch bill of fare1 #dhd2 fishes1 #dhi2 vegetables gaining ground1 #dij2 fruit eaters paradise1 #dif2 ,burbank's new fruits and vegetables1 #eji4 ,america1 ,ungastronomic3 #c-ci2 causes1 #aa2 quick-lunch1 #fa2 denatured food1 #ff-aaf2 cold-storage poultry1 #fi2 oysters spoiled1 #hf2 dyed meats and fish1 #ajc2 butter1 #aje2 unwilling to take pains1 #ajg2 vegetables1 badly cooked1 #abd2 use of condiments1 #adc2 indifference to superior cooking1 #afd2 wasted food and flavors1 #baa2 poultry for eggs only1 #bbc2 dissonant salads1 #bdc2 bad influence on ,paris1 #bei2 bread1 #bhh2 cheese1 #cjd2 frozen fish1 #cfb2 slaughter of game1 #cff2 prejudice against mutton1 #djh2 bacon1 #daj4 ,appendicitis1 #ea4 ,appetite1 and gastric juice1 #ee1 #ii2 for girls1 #ef1 #agi2 cheese as appetizer1 #cjc2 ,shakespeare on1 #egc4 ,apples1 #dfh1 #dif1 #eah1 #ech4 ,artichokes1 ,french1 #bch4 ,austria1 #cgd1 #cge1 #cha 7see ,germany74 ,b ,bacon1 #ff1 #ig1 #bcb1 #dji1 #edi4 ,bailey1 ,l4 ,h41 #dia1 #dih1 #eja1 #eaj4 ,bakers1 #bia1 #cgc4 ,bakewell1 ,r4 ,g41 #djj4 ,baltimore1 #edi4 ,bananas1 #dcc1 #eci4 ,beecher1 ,henry ,ward1 #dfh4 ,beef3 embalmed1 #ae2 extracts1 #abc2 roast1 #acj2 fresh or chilled vs4 frozen1 #dja4 ,beer and ,brewers1 #ce4 ,benzoate of soda1 #ca4 ,berlin1 #hi1 #cdb1 #cef1 #cei1 #cga1 #cha4 ,berries1 #dce1 #eaf1 #edf4 ,beverages1 #ege-eha4 ,billingsgate fish market1 #dbd4 ,birds1 in ,italy1 #ccd 7see game74 ,bismarck1 #cea4 ,bitter 7see taste74 ,boar1 wild1 #hb4 ,bones1 for soup1 #bad4 ,borax1 #be4 ,boston1 #aic1 #dgb1 #dia4 ,boys as cooks1 #agc4 ,brains1 fried1 #cah1 #dba4 ,bread3 ,boston brown1 #di2 ,american1 #fg1 #bhg2 salt in1 #adb2 ,french1 #bhe2 crust vs4 crumb1 #bhf2 toasted1 #bij2 corn1 #deg2 the diabolical degerminator1 #dei2 ,german and ,austrian1 #cgc4 ,bresse1 poulet de1 #fi1 #bbj4 ,brillat-,savarin1 #fa1 #bai1 #cdc1 #dgd1 #efc4 ,broiling1 #abi4 ,bryce1 ,a41 #bij4 ,buckwheat cakes1 #dfj4 ,burbank1 ,luther1 on educating escarole1 #bce2 artichokes1 #bci2 frost-proof apple blossoms1 #dic2 genius and advantages1 #eji2 mental pattern1 #eaa2 new fruits and improved vegetables1 #eab-eba2 corn1 #ead2 nuts1 #eag2 grapes1 #eah2 enemies1 #eah2 cactus1 #eai2 garden1 #ebj2 commercial value of flavor1 #ebb2 combines flavor with beauty1 #ebg2 imparting a pineapple flavor1 #ecd4 ,burpee1 ,w4 ,a41 #bcc1 #bcd1 #dee4 ,butter3 ,american1 #aje2 sweet vs4 salt1 #aab2 how the best is made1 #bib2 sweet vs4 sour cream1 #bid1 #chg2 fishy flavor in1 #bih2 versus mutton fat1 #dje2 artificially colored1 #ebe2 spoiled by strong feed1 #edh4 ,c ,cactus1 thornless1 #eai4 ,california1 #dcb1 #eac1 #eae1 #eca1 #ecf1 #eee4 ,campbell1 ,dr4 ,h41 #df1 #di1 #bhg4 ,canada1 #daj1 #dha1 #eee4 ,candy1 #ba1 #cc1 #fb1 #edd4 ,carme1 #afj1 #afc1 #bah1 #cgh4 ,casserole cooking1 #adh-i4 ,cassidy1 ,h4 ,p41 #cc1 #ch1 #fg4 ,caviare1 #beg1 #ejb4 ,celery1 #did4 ,cereals1 #ada1 #bfb4 ,chafing dish cooking1 #aej4 ,cheese3 with salad1 #bdc2 as an appetizer1 #cjc2 ,american1 #cjd2 various ,european countries1 #cje2 ,french1 #cjf2 cooked in place of meat1 #cbh2 ,german1 ,swiss and ,dutch1 #che2 ,english1 #ddf4 ,cherries1 #dce4 ,chicago1 #agb1 #ahb1 #bjj1 #bjb1 #cfb4 ,chickens 7see poultry74 ,child1 ,theodore1 #adg1 #aii4 ,china1 intensive farming1 #eef4 ,city-bred people1 easily fooled1 #ebf4 ,clark1 ,mrs4 ,champ1 #afh4 ,cocoa1 #egg4 ,codfish1 flavor of1 #dhi4 ,coffee1 #ege4 ,cold storage1 #fi1 #gb1 #hc-hf1 #ech4 ,commercial ,value of ,flavor3 smoked hams and bacon1 #ajd1 #dad2 sweet butter1 #aac1 #cjb2 profitable chickens1 #bbj2 sausages1 #cdi2 fish ponds1 #cfj2 best cheese the most profitable1 #chg1 #cic2 consumers and chilled meat1 #djb2 demand for good poultry1 #dbc2 cakes1 #ddc2 maple syrup1 #dfc2 turkeys1 #dgf2 ,burbank on1 #ebb2 ,chapter ,,xii2 flavor decides permanence1 #ebb2 natural butter1 #ebe2 where pure food pays best1 #ebi2 opportunities in pineapples1 #ecb2 tree-ripened peaches1 #ecf2 fortunes from bananas and oranges1 #eci2 melons and honey1 #edb2 women and local flavor1 #ede2 feeding flavor into food1 #edf2 doubling farmyard profits1 #eeb4 ,condiments1 #bh1 #abd1 #adj1 #adb1 #ced1 #ddh1 #dfi4 ,cook books1 #adf4 ,cooking3 plain1 #aa2 science of savory1 #aag2 flavor as guiding principle1 #aai2 main object of1 #aba2 soup1 #abb2 boiling1 #abb2 vegetables1 #abe2 steaming1 #abi2 broiling1 #abi2 roasting1 #acj2 gravy1 #acj2 frying1 #acb2 combining meat and vegetable flavors1 #acd2 stewing1 #acd2 cook books1 #adf2 paper-bag1 #adh2 casserole1 #adi2 a noble art1 #aeb2 way to a man's heart1 #aec2 vs4 divorce1 #aee2 factory and shop girls1 #aef2 royalty in the kitchen1 #aeh2 ,american society women as cooks1 #afh2 does it pay8 #afi1 #agc2 future of1 #aga2 school girls like it1 #aga2 by boys and soldiers1 #agc2 traveling schools1 #agf2 in ,english schools1 #agg2 in ,american1 #aha2 fascination of1 #ahd2 lessons and the farm1 #ahf2 economics1 #aij2 fireless cookers1 #aia2 community kitchens1 #aig2 electric1 #bjj2 an exact science1 #bjd4 ,cooks3 social caste of1 #aed2 improved by praise1 #afe2 earn more than teachers1 doctors1 and clergymen1 #afi2 boys and soldiers as1 #agc2 divine beings1 #caj4 ,copenhagen1 #cee4 ,corn1 sweet1 and corn bread1 #dea 7see bread72 ,burbank's improved1 #ead4 ,covent ,garden market1 #dbi4 ,crab-apples1 #ejj4 ,cranberries1 #cga1 #dga4 ,crawfish1 #cga1 #dhc4 ,cream1 sweet or sour1 for butter1 #bid1 #chg2 in cheese1 #chh4 ,d ,darwin1 #fa1 #aia4 ,dates1 #ejf4 ,dealers1 pennywise1 #cij1 #ecb4 ,deer1 #cff2 farming1 #dgi4 ,delicatessen stores1 #cda4 ,denatured foods1 #ff-aaf4 ,denmark1 #agf4 ,de ,reszke1 ,jean1 #efi4 ,dickens1 #d4 ,dish-washing1 #aeg4 ,domestic science1 in schools1 #aha2 and farm work1 #ahf4 ,ducks1 canvasback1 #edi4 ,dumas1 ,a41 #bab1 #bad4 ,drunkenness1 #egf4 ,dutch cheese1 #cij4 ,e ,eating3 a new psychology of1 #fa2 teaching the art of1 in schools1 #ahg2 talking about1 #cdj2 with the eyes1 #ebd4 ,eggs1 #edg1 #eff4 ,electric cooking1 #bjj4 ,eliot1 ,c4 ,w41 #db4 ,ellwanger1 #adf1 #baf1 #cgc4 ,england3 inns and steamers1 #d2 sauces and meats1 #ade2 cook books1 #adg2 royalty in the kitchen1 #aeh2 cooking lessons for men1 #agc2 cooking in schools1 #agg2 electric cooking1 #bja2 need of variety1 #bjg2 wastefulness1 #baa2 poultry1 #bba2 market gardens1 #bgi2 mushrooms1 #bha2 sardines1 #cae2 beef dripping1 #cah2 monotony in diet1 #cie2 gluttony1 #cig2 roast beef1 #cii2 cattle-breeders1 #djj2 ,southdown mutton1 #djc2 ,wiltshire bacon1 #dji2 grouse1 #dba2 markets1 #dbc1 #dbi2 fish and oysters1 #dbc2 vegetables1 #dcj2 fruit1 #dcb2 berries1 #dce2 marmalades1 jams1 #dcg2 breakfasts1 #ddj2 special dishes1 #ddb2 plum pudding1 #ddc2 cheese1 #ddf2 abuse of condiments1 #ddh2 pie1 #dff2 tea1 #egg4 ,epicurism1 #ec1 #ahi1 #egf4 ,escarole1 #bcb4 ,eyes1 eating with the1 #ebd4 ,f ,factory and shop girls1 #aef1 #ahc4 ,fairchild1 ,d41 #fh1 #ejf4 ,farmers1 hints for 7see governmental gastronomy1 and commercial value of flavor74 ,farming1 intensive will solve food problem1 #eec-h4 ,fat1 importance of1 in diet1 #bbd2 how digested1 #bbe4 ,fireless cookers1 #aea1 #agb1 #aia4 ,fish3 dyed1 #ff2 storage1 #fg2 smoked1 #ajc1 #cdd1 #dbg2 in ,paris market1 #bge2 fried1 in ,italy1 #caf2 live1 brought to kitchen1 #cee2 ponds1 in ,germany1 #cfj2 frozen1 #cfa2 in ,london market1 #dbc2 sole1 #dbf2 ,american1 #dhi4 ,flavor3 superlative importance of1 #dj-fd2 helps the stomach1 #ec2 creates an appetite1 #ef2 why we eat chicken1 #gi2 in butter1 #aje2 guiding principle in cooking1 #aai2 chief value of vegetables1 #abd2 extending the flavor of meat1 #acd2 from cheap cuts of meat1 #acg2 condiments1 #adc2 art of varying1 #aec2 test1 vs4 vegetarianism1 #adb2 fat1 a source of1 #chh2 in ,british meat1 #cii2 little1 in frozen meat1 #djb1 or fish1 #cfj2 in codfish1 #dhi1 local1 #dii2 decides value1 #ebb2 ,burbank on1 #ebb2 what we spend most money on1 #ebd2 in nuts1 #ebf2 farmers and city greenhorns1 #ebf2 variety in1 #ece2 fruit and cold storage1 #eci2 in bananas and oranges1 #edj2 in melons and honey1 #edc2 extracts1 #edd2 value of local1 #ede2 feeding it into food1 #edf2 how it differs from fragrance1 #eff2 an aid to temperance1 #ege2 bouquet1 #egf4 ,fletcher and ,fletcherizing1 #aa-ec1 #fc1 #bbg4 ,flour1 #cbj1 #cgc4 ,food and ,drugs ,act1 #ca4 ,food problem solved by intensive farming1 #eed-h4 ,food1 soft1 #ej2 adulterated1 #ad-ci2 denatured1 #fe-aaf2 raw1 #aah2 enjoyable plain1 #eb2 importance of variety1 #bjf2 cheap nourishment1 #aij2 7see meats1 vegetables1 fruits1 cooking1 pure food1 etc472 why cost increases1 #eed4 ,france3 poule de ,bresse1 #fi1 #bbj2 marketing poultry1 #gd2 cook books1 #adg2 respect for cooks1 #aee2 society women in the kitchen1 #aef2 kings as cooks1 #aei2 culinary supremacy1 #baj-bch2 lessons in economy1 #baa2 stock-pot1 #bab2 soups1 #bab2 sauces1 #bae2 poultry1 #bbj2 use of vegetables1 #bdc2 restaurants1 #bdd2 fruit1 #bdg2 culinary word language1 #bec2 ,russian and ,american influences1 #bee2 provincial flavors1 #bfb2 central market place1 #bfg2 fish1 #bge2 marketing1 #bgg2 market gardens1 #bgh2 mushrooms and truffles1 #bhj2 fancy fruits1 #bhd2 bread1 #bhe2 bakers1 #bia2 best butter how made1 #bib2 cheese1 #cjc2 learned from ,italy1 #cji2 olive oil1 #caa2 fondness for pork1 #dag2 intensive gardening1 #eeg4 ,freezene1 #ag4 ,frogs1 #caj4 ,fruits1 canned1 #ca2 raw1 #aag2 in ,france1 #bhe2 ,england1 #dcb2 ,united ,states1 #dif2 ,burbank's improved1 #eag2 cold storage1 #ech2 pre-cooling1 #eci2 7see apples1 peaches1 etc74 ,frying1 #acb1 #caf4 ,g ,game1 in ,germany1 #cfe2 ,england1 #dba2 ,united ,states1 #dgh4 ,garlic1 #bfd1 #ccf4 ,gastronomy3 ,preface1 #dc1 #fa1 #fd1 #ahi-aij1 #bca1 #bfj1 #cid1 #ejb1 #ebf4 ,geese1 #cdd1 #cfh4 ,genius and kitchen problems1 #afa4 ,germany3 cook books1 #adf2 traveling cooking schools1 #agf2 peasants and vegetables1 #agg2 use of ,french words1 #bec2 butter1 #cja2 cosmopolitan cuisine1 #cci2 delicatessen stores1 #cda2 sauerkraut1 #cdc2 sausage and smoked ham1 #cde2 live fish in kitchen1 #cee2 fish ponds1 #cfj2 game and geese1 #cfb2 ,berlin market1 #cga2 bread1 #cgc2 menus on land and sea1 #cgh1 #chb2 cheeses1 #che2 opposition to frozen meats1 #djc2 pork1 #daf2 parcel post1 #eec4 ,gladstone1 #dc1 #dcg4 ,gluten1 #cbj4 ,gluttony1 #eb1 #ahh1 #cig1 #egf4 ,gooseberries1 #dcf4 ,governmental ,gastronomy1 #ejb4 ,grapefruit1 #dcc4 ,grapes1 #dig1 #eah4 ,gravy1 #aca4 ,greenhorns1 #ecj4 ,griddle cakes1 #dei4 ,grieg1 #cda4 ,grill1 #acj4 ,guinea fowl to replace game1 #dgg4 ,h ,hale1 ,j4 ,h41 #ecg4 ,ham1 smoked1 #ff1 #ig1 #cea4 ,hamburg1 #ceh4 ,harland1 ,marian1 #aea1 #aeg1 #afg4 ,harvey1 ,fred1 #e4 ,hawaiian ,pineapples1 #ecc4 ,hawthorne1 ,hildegarde1 #bda4 ,hayward1 ,h41 #aad1 #aaf1 #bih4 ,herrick1 ,christine ,terhune1 #aea1 #afg4 ,hill1 ,j4 ,m41 #afg4 ,holland1 cheese1 #cij4 ,honey1 #ad1 #edc4 ,hors d'oeuvres1 #bef4 ,howells1 ,w4 ,d41 #cbh4 ,hungary1 #cgd4 ,hunt1 ,c4 ,l41 #acb1 #acg4 ,i ,indians and vegetables1 #deb1 #dfb4 ,italy3 cook books1 #adg2 cradle of modern cookery1 #cji2 olive oil1 #caa2 sardines1 #cad2 fried foods1 #caf2 macaroni1 #cai2 cheese in place of meat1 #cbh2 abstinence1 #cbi2 birds1 #ccd2 garlic1 #ccf2 tomatoes1 #ccg4 ,j ,jger1 ,g41 #eff4 ,jams1 #dcg4 ,japan1 #cjd1 #cbe1 #egi4 ,johnson1 ,samuel1 #cif4 ,k ,kant1 #fa1 #egb4 ,kellogg1 ,j4 ,l41 #hi4 ,kitchen3 society women in1 #aeg1 #afi2 royalty in1 #aeh2 private1 vs4 community1 #aig2 electricity in1 #bjj4 ,l ,lakey1 ,alice1 #ba1 #aje4 ,lane1 ,mrs4 ,john1 #dcc4 ,langworthy1 ,c4 ,f41 #acb1 #acg4 ,lemons1 #bca1 #eda4 ,lettuce1 #bcc4 ,lobsters1 #dhj4 ,london3 markets1 #dbc2 restaurants1 #dda 7see ,england74 ,looking down on others1 #afe1 #bje4 ,m ,macaroni1 #cai4 ,mc,cann1 ,a4 ,w41 #ce1 #ch4 ,magazines1 helpful1 #ahf4 ,malaria1 #efc4 ,mangoes1 #ejg4 ,maple syrup1 #dfb4 ,marketing1 in ,paris1 #bff2 ,berlin1 #cga2 ,london1 #bgi1 #dbc1 #dbi4 ,mark ,twain1 #c1 #cfg1 #deb1 #dff1 #eaf4 ,marmalades1 #dcg1 #efb4 ,marriage and food1 #aec4 ,mastication1 #di4 ,mat1 #ehj4 ,maxwell1 ,w4 ,h41 #aga4 ,meat3 economical use of1 #acg2 eating in the future1 #aci2 less nutritious than cheese1 #ccj2 smoked 7see smoked72 frozen1 #gf1 #djb 7see beef1 mutton1 c74 ,melons1 #did1 #edb4 ,men3 blameworthy1 #ac2 way to heart of1 #aec2 in kitchen1 #aei-afc2 medical1 #aff2 as cooks1 #agc4 ,mexico1 #e1 #eca4 ,middlemen1 #eec4 ,milk1 #ajg1 #edh4 ,mitchell1 ,m4 ,j41 #aea4 ,munich1 #cgi4 ,murray1 #abf4 ,mushrooms1 #bhj4 ,mutton1 #hb1 #djc4 ,n ,naples1 #cbf4 ,napoleon1 #ea4 ,netter1 ,g4 ,g41 #cd4 ,newnham-,davis1 ,col41 #baf1 #bfb1 #bfe1 #caa1 #ddh4 ,new ,orleans1 #bci4 ,norway1 #dcf4 ,nose1 seven functions of1 #efi4 ,nuremberg1 #cdi4 ,nuts1 #ejj1 #ejh1 #eag4 ,o ,odors1 gastronomic value of1 #fc1 #eei-eha4 ,oleomargarine1 #aaj4 ,olive oil1 #bbh1 #caa1 #cae4 ,oranges1 #eda4 ,oregon1 #h1 #dhc1 #edf4 ,osmosis1 #ha1 #hb1 #ia4 ,oven taste1 #aca4 ,oysters1 #hf1 #dbh1 #dhg4 ,p ,paderewski1 ,i4 ,j41 #aeh1 #afd1 #bei1 #bhe1 #dce1 #dhh4 ,palatability 7see flavor74 ,pancake1 ,french1 #bdf4 ,pancreas1 #bbe4 ,paper-bag cookery1 #adh4 ,parcel ,post1 #eec4 ,paris restaurants1 #bdd 7see ,france74 ,parloa1 ,maria1 #abg4 ,pasteurized cream1 for butter1 #bih4 ,pt de foie gras1 #cgj4 ,pawlow1 ,prof41 #ee1 #bbe1 #bij1 #efa4 ,pawpaw1 #ejb4 ,peaches1 #fh1 #ecj1 #eca1 #ecf4 ,peanut butter1 #acc4 ,pears1 #ebg4 ,perfumery1 #egj4 ,persimmon1 #ejj4 ,petite marmite1 #bej4 ,pickles1 #cdc4 ,philadelphia1 #eej4 ,physicians and cookery1 #afg4 ,pies1 #dff1 #efj4 ,piesse1 ,c4 ,h41 #efd4 ,pigs3 wild boar's meat1 #hb2 for bacon1 #daa2 fair play for1 #dah2 dairy farming and1 #dae2 7see pork1 ham1 bacon74 ,pineapples1 #ecb4 ,pleasures of the table1 #da-fd4 ,plum pudding1 #ddc4 ,plums1 #eab1 #eag4 ,pork1 increasing popularity of1 #dag4 ,portland1 ,ore41 #aj4 ,potatoes1 #cbj1 #die1 #eac4 ,poultry3 cold storage1 #fi-gd2 future of1 in ,america1 #gb2 marketing in ,france1 #gd2 undrawn1 horrors of1 #gf2 why do we eat8 #gi2 ,french varieties1 #bbj2 turkeys and guinea fowl1 #dgc2 feeding flavor into1 #edf1 #eeb4 ,powell1 ,e4 ,p41 #aih1 #dig4 ,preservatives1 chemical1 #bh-ci1 #dj1 #cea4 ,psychology of eating1 #fa4 ,pure food experts1 school girls as1 #ebh4 ,pure ,food laws1 #ca1 #cd1 #cdb1 #ceb4 ,q ,quince1 ,burbank's improved1 #eaf4 ,r ,raw foods1 #cj4 ,restaurants3 in ,paris1 #bdd2 ,munich1 #cgi2 ,berlin1 #cha2 ,london1 #ddg4 ,rhubarb1 ,burbank's1 #eae4 ,rice1 #fg4 ,roasting1 #acj4 ,rogers and ,gray1 #cjj4 ,romans1 ancient1 #cji1 #eea4 ,ronald1 ,mary1 #adf1 #afg1 #cag1 #cah4 ,rorer1 ,mrs41 #afg4 ,rossini1 #afc4 ,ruskin1 #db4 ,russia1 #ee1 #bbf-bef1 #bhc4 ,s ,sage1 ,mrs4 ,russell1 #dgh4 ,st4 ,louis1 #dhf4 ,sala1 ,g4 ,a41 #dbd4 ,salads3 digestive value of sour1 #bbd2 dressing for1 #bbd-bcb2 best varieties of1 #bcb-bda2 fruit1 #bdb4 ,salt1 #adb1 #efj 7see taste74 ,sardines1 #cad4 ,sauces1 #adb1 #bae4 ,sauerkraut1 #cdc4 ,sausages1 #cde4 ,scallops1 #dhh4 ,schoolgirls as food experts1 #ebh4 ,schools3 cooking in1 #aga1 #agg1 #aha2 teaching the art of eating1 #ahg4 ,scotch marmalades1 #dcg4 ,sewage and oysters1 #hg1 #dbh4 ,sicilian cooking1 #caj4 ,smell1 sense of1 #fa1 #fc1 chapt4 ,,xiii4 ,smoked meats and fish1 #ff1 #ig1 #bde1 #cdd1 #cej1 #dad1 #dbg4 ,snails1 #bgf1 #caj4 ,soldiers as cooks1 #agc4 ,sole1 #dbf4 ,soup1 #abc1 #bab4 ,sour 7see taste74 ,spain1 #adg1 #bcj1 #ccf4 ,spices 7see condiments74 ,steaming1 #abi4 ,stewing1 #acd4 ,stockpot1 ,french1 #baa4 ,strassburg1 #cgj4 ,strawberries1 #dce1 #eaa4 ,sweet 7see ,taste74 ,switzerland1 #cgd1 #chf4 ,syrup1 #dfa4 ,t ,table d'hte1 philosophy of1 #eh4 ,tangelo1 #ejh4 ,taste1 sense of1 #ei-fd1 #eei-eff4 ,tastes1 quarreling about1 #egd4 ,tea1 #ege4 ,terrapin1 #edi4 ,thackeray1 #ec1 #bfe1 #cid4 ,thompson1 ,henry1 #abe1 #acf1 #aeb1 #bjg1 #cbc4 ,toast1 #bij4 ,tobacco1 #efh1 #ega4 ,tomatoes1 #bcf1 #ccg1 #dca1 #dib4 ,truffles1 #bhj4 ,turkeys1 #dgc1 #eeb4 ,u ,urbain-,dubois1 #adg4 ,v ,variety1 #aah1 #bjf1 #ece4 ,veal1 #cgb4 ,vegetables3 raw1 #aag2 value of1 lies in flavor1 #abd2 how to cook1 #abh2 combined with meat1 #acd2 as separate course1 #bdc2 in ,paris market1 #bfh2 mostly water1 #bgi2 in ,london1 #dcj2 ,united ,states1 #dij2 gaining ground1 #dij2 weeds as1 #eje2 improvable1 #ebc2 dangerous colors in canned1 #ecj4 ,vegetarianism1 #ada4 ,venice1 #cbd1 #cbh4 ,venison1 #cfe1 #dbb4 ,vinegar1 #cb1 #fb1 #bbd1 #bbg4 ,w ,wallace1 ,r41 #daj4 ,warner1 ,c4 ,d41 #e4 ,washington ,state1 #aj1 #dhc1 #edf4 ,webster1 ,e4 ,h41 #ajf1 #bid1 #cjj4 ,weeds as vegetables1 #eje4 ,wiley ,h4 ,w43 on badly cooked food1 #e2 honey1 #ad2 poison squad1 #bd2 condiments and chemical preservatives1 #bh2 canned fruits1 #ca2 ,referee ,board1 #cf1 #ci2 cold storage decreases palatability1 #gb2 drawn poultry1 #hj2 fresh poultry1 #hd2 oysters1 #ia2 butter1 #aac2 soup stock1 #abc2 vegetables1 #abd2 meats as condiments1 #adj2 vegetarianism1 #ada2 oil1 #bbi2 mushrooms1 #bhb2 fresh fish1 #cfa2 syrup1 #dfb2 mince meat1 #ega2 eating with the eyes1 #ebd2 colored butter1 #ebe2 dangerous coloring matter1 #ecj2 canned fruits1 #ece2 flavor in pork1 #edi4 ,wilson1 ,mrs4 ,woodrow1 #afi4 ,wine1 bouquet of1 #egf4 ,wives1 and cooking1 #aec1 #ahb4 ,women3 are they to blame8 #aa2 as writers of cook books1 #afg2 social caste of cooks1 #aed2 queens and society women in the kitchen1 #aeh2 having an appetite1 #agi2 beauty and olive oil1 #bcj2 commercial opportunities for1 #ede 7see wives1 schools1 cooking1 etc474 ,wright1 ,h4 ,s41 #afg4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,the argument that small doses of chemicals can do no harm has been demolished with merciless logic by ,dr4 ,wiley in his ,foods and ,their ,adulteration 7second edition1 pp4 #ch-dj74 ,this admirable book should be in every home1 for daily reference4 ,it gives1 in untechnical language a vast amount of information regarding all our important foods1 with hints as to the detection of dangerous or objectionable impurities4 #b ,they first appeared in the ,london ,lancet1 in ,july and ,august1 #aijc1 and are reprinted in ,fletcher's ,a4 ,b4-,z4 of ,nutrition1 pp4 #if-agi4 #c ,a ,preliminary ,study of the ,effects of ,cold ,storage on ,eggs1 ,quail1 and ,chickens1 by ,h4 ,w4 ,wiley1 with the collaboration of ,m4 ,e4 ,pennington1 ,g4 ,w4 ,styles1 ,jr41 ,b4 ,j4 ,howard1 and ,f4 ,c4 ,cook4 ,washington1 #aijh4 #d ,new ,york3 ,henry ,holt ,co41 #aiaj4 #e ,see ,bulletins ,nos4 #cd1 #ada1 #afb1 #aic4 ,a convenient summary of the results reached1 up to #aiaa1 may be found in ,j4 ,alan ,murray's ,the ,economy of ,food1 ,new ,york3 ,d4 ,appleton ,co4 #f ,bulletin #dc1 ,u4 ,s4 ,dept4 of ,agr4 #g ,economical ,use of ,meat at ,home1 by ,c4 ,f4 ,langworthy and ,caroline ,l4 ,hunt4 ,farmers' ,bulletin #cia4 #h ,sir ,henry ,thompson devotes six valuable pages of his ,food and ,feeding 7,chap4 ,v4 and ,appendix7 to the subject of stewing and braising4 #i ,la ,poule4 ,production ,intensive des ufs4 ,par ,a4 ,linard1 ,paris3 ,s4 ,bornemann4 ,see also the same author's ,la ,poule4 ,production ,intensive de la ,chair2 and ,les ,poules1 ,poulets et ,chapons4 ,par ,franois ,rontillet1 ,paris3 ,le ,bailly--for information as to the best ,french ways of feeding1 housing1 caponizing1 and fattening fowls4 #aj ,an excellent summary of what it is important to know about mushrooms and toadstools is included in ,dr4 ,wiley's ,foods and ,their ,adulteration4 ,of the many books specially devoted to this subject ,gibson's is perhaps the best4 #aa ,butter-making on the ,farm1 ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #bda4 #ab ,facts ,concerning the ,history1 ,commerce1 and ,manufacture of ,butter4 ,bureau of ,animal ,industry ,no4 #ef4 ,both these pamphlets contain much information of value to butter-makers4 #ac ,fishy ,flavor in ,butter4 ,circular #adf1 ,bureau of ,animal ,industry1 #bj pages1 #aiji4 ,in ,september1 #aiab1 the ,department of ,agriculture published another document1 ,bulletin #adh of the ,bureau of ,animal ,industry1 by ,l4 ,a4 ,rogers1 ,s4 ,c4 ,thompson1 and ,j4 ,r4 ,keithley1 in which the superiority of butter made from pasteurized sweet cream is again demonstrated in making butter for storage--for which most ,american butter at present is made4 ,attention is also called to the fact that pasteurization of cream serves as a protection to the health of the consumer by destroying such bacteria as those of tuberculosis and typhoid fever1 which are known to survive for long periods in butter made from unpasteurized cream4 #ad ,see the details in the chapter on ,american ,sapporo1 in my ,lotos ,time in ,japan4 #ae ,good ,cheer4 ,the ,romance of ,food and ,feasting4 ,by ,f4 ,w4 ,hackwood4 ,this volume contains many interesting details relating to old ,english customs in the dining-room and kitchen1 in homes1 inns1 and monasteries4 #af ,sheep3 ,a ,practical ,handbook4 ,with chapter on ,management and ,feeding4 #ajj pp4 ,price #a shilling4 ,london3 ,vinton ,co41 ,chancery ,lane1 ,beam's ,building4 ,it is one of a series which includes cattle1 horses1 dogs1 poultry1 etc4 #ag ,pigs for ,breeders and ,feeders4 ,london3 ,vinton ,co4 #ah ,for details regarding ,british cheeses see ,cheese and ,cheese ,making1 by ,james ,long and ,john ,benson4 ,london3 ,chapman ,hall4 #ai ,food ,value of ,corn and ,corn ,products4 ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #bih1 ,washington1 #aijg4 #bj ,cereal ,breakfast ,foods is the title of ,farmers' ,bulletin ,no4 #bdi1 which tells about their composition1 variety1 digestibility1 cost1 adulteration1 etc4 ,american magazines thrive on the advertisements of breakfast cereals4 #ba ,the ,production of ,maple ,syrup and ,sugar4 ,by ,a4 ,hugh ,bryan1 ,chief ,sugar ,laboratory1 ,bureau of ,chemistry1 and ,william ,f4 ,hubbard1 ,forest ,assistant1 ,forest ,service1 #aiab4 #bb ,turkeys3 ,their ,standard ,varieties and ,management4 ,farmers' ,bulletin1 ,no4 #bjj4 #bc ,in his beautifully illustrated and valuable ,natural ,history of the ,american ,lobster4 ,from ,bulletin of the ,bureau of ,fisheries1 #aiji4 #bd ,new ,york3 ,mc,clure1 ,phillips ,co41 #aijd4 #be ,see ,bailey's ,the ,evolution of our ,native ,fruits for useful hints along these lines4 ,transcriber's ,note3 #a4 ,printing errors silently corrected4 #b4 ,italics are shown as italics4 #c4 ,bold print is shown as bold4 #d4 ,both the forms buf and boeuf have been used in the original book4 ,they have been retained as such4