,,it',s ,,fun ,,to ,,sew a cotton school dress ,,cooperative ,,extension ,,service ,,oregon ,,state ,,university1 ,,corvallis ,,phase #c #d-;,h ,,club ,,series ,l-#hg ,it's ,fun to ,sew--,cotton ,school ,dress ,,theta ,,johnson ,clothing ,specialist1 ,extension ,service ,utah ,state ,university ,logan1 ,utah ,,phase #c ,where to find page ,your guide for the project #a ,plan your project #a ,your anklets #b ,improve your grooming #b ,care of your hair #b ,patterns for you #c ,fabrics you will like #d ,before you start to sew #e ,study your pattern #e ,straighten your fabric #e ,pin and cut #f ,check your machine #f ,practice on an easy-to-make article #g ,drawstring bag #g ,swimming robe #h ,apron or scarf #i ,make clothes for school or play #i ,blouse #i ,gathered skirt #i ,gored skirt #ab ,school dress #ab ,how does your costume look to you8 #ab ,tips for easier sewing #ac ,belt keepers #af ,darts #ac ,facings #ad ,fastenings #af ,gathers #aa ,guide lines #ac ,hems #ae ,markings #ac ,seams #ad ,seam finishes #ad ,skirt band #aa ,skirt placket #aj ,stay-stitching #ac ,tailor's tacks #ac ,complete your record book #ag ,show others what you have learned #ag ,exhibits #ag ,demonstrations #ag ,are you ready for the next project8 #ag ,read this book from cover to cover before you start your project4 ,your guide for the project ,this project is for you who have learned the lessons of ,clothing ,phases #a and #b4 ,you are now ready to do more advanced sewing4 ,third phase clothing features clothing for school and play4 ,it includes points on health and good grooming for you to study and use4 ,you will learn to stretch the life of your clothes4 ,take turns leading discussions and giving demonstrations for your club4 ,look at 8,tips for ,easier ,sewing10 page #ac4 ,they will aid you in improving your sewing4 ,what to study #a4 ,care of clothing--learn to keep your clothing in its proper place4 #b4 ,buying anklets and how to care for them4 #c4 ,habits to improve health and grooming4 #d4 ,style1 material1 and construction of easy-to-make clothes for school and play4 #e4 ,taking part in special events such as judging1 demonstrations1 and exhibits4 ,articles to make ,make one of these articles3 ,swimming robe ,scarf ,peasant apron ,draw-string bag ,this will help you review what you learned in the other projects and to get the feel of using the sewing machine4 ,make one of these articles3 ,school dress ,skirt and blouse ,add to your #d-;,h record book ,your county extension agent will give you a clothing record sheet and a sheet for your #d-;,h ,club story for this year4 ,place them in front of last years' records4 ,keep your records as you go4 ,you may record the articles you make other than those that are required for your project1 unless you have made them for some other program or class4 ,keep a record of the activities you participate in 7such as tours1 demonstrations1 judging1 camps1 and exhibits7 for your permanent record4 ,demonstrate to your club ,give a demonstration at one of your club meetings4 ,show others what you have learned4 ,when you show another club member how to tie a knot or sew on a button1 you are giving a 8demonstration40 ,things that are done or seen are remembered longest and clearest4 ,work alone or with a partner4 ,plan to enter a community or county demonstration contest4 ,ask your leader for help on how to give a demonstration4 ,choose a topic you will study in your project4 ,plan your project ,you will have fun making and buying clothing for school or play4 ,plan this project with your leader and your mother4 ,remember that mother is a partner in this project4 ,talk to her about what you want to make and show her this project book4 ,she will be glad to give you suggestions and help you make a wise selection if she knows what you are to make4 ,first you will study how to buy and care for your anklets4 ,the first article you will make is to help you review what you learned in your last project and to help you get the feel of the sewing machine again4 ,there is a wide choice--select something that you can make in a short time4 ,complete this article before you start your dress or skirt and blouse4 ,the second article is to be the main part of your project4 ,here you will learn many new sewing methods4 ,select something you have not made before4 ,choose something that will teach you two or three new tricks in sewing1 but be careful to avoid dresses with many details such as collars1 cuffs1 and sleeves on one pattern4 ,your anklets ,buying anklets ,it is important that you learn to select your own clothing4 ,why not start with buying your anklets8 ,you will wear anklets for many occasions--sports1 school1 and best4 ,select them for the occasion for which you intend to wear them4 ,you will find anklets made of many fibers--cotton1 rayon1 nylon1 wool1 or a combination of these fibers4 ,each of these fibers makes the anklets feel and wear differently4 ,cotton anklets are soft and absorbent4 ,they are comfortable to wear4 ,a good quality cotton anklet holds its shape and wears well4 ,rayon anklets are not as soft or as absorbent as cotton and may not wear as well4 ,nylon anklets are made of staple yarn 7silk-like7 and of spun yarn 7wool-like74 ,they give long wear but are not as comfortable as cotton4 ,this is because they are not as absorbent4 ,wool socks are usually worn by athletes and people whose feet perspire a lot1 because they are absorbent4 ,they will hold a lot of moisture and not feel wet4 ,illustration3 anklets ,read the labels ,a combination of cotton and nylon makes a desirable anklet4 ,you will find anklets made of cotton with toes and heels reinforced with nylon for longer wear4 ,blends of nylon and cotton or other fibers are also used4 ,anklets are made of many new and different kinds of yarns and knits to add patterns and stretch4 ,new finishes are also used4 ,some finishes help to hold the shape and control shrinkage4 ,the finish may require special care and washing4 ,a good anklet is closely knit1 has a top which will hold its shape1 and the cuff is knitted to the foot4 ,it comes in colors which harmonize with your dresses or sweaters and skirts4 ,it is 8fast color0 and will not fade4 ,buy the right size anklets ,to be comfortable anklets should be one half inch longer than your foot4 ,short socks are injurious to your feet4 ,they do not wear as long as properly-fitted ones4 ,visit your store to study the newest types of socks for teenagers4 ,care of anklets ,good care will help your anklets to last longer4 ,wash your socks after each wearing4 ,use a mild soap or detergent and warm water4 ,have the water as hot as you can comfortably hold your hands in4 ,rinse the socks thoroughly in clear water and hang them by the toes to dry4 ,white socks may be washed with the family laundry4 ,always wash dark-colored ones by hand4 ,improve your grooming ,care of your hair ,study the care of your hair for your good grooming lesson4 ,learn to comb1 brush1 shampoo1 and arrange it4 ,invite the beautician or hair dresser in your community to talk at a club meeting4 ,she will be glad to show you how to care for and style your hair4 ,have her show you how to make pincurls1 waves1 or rolls4 ,illustration3 ,hairdo ,shiny1 clean-looking hair adds to your good looks4 ,it shows the condition of your health4 ,poor health1 lack of rest1 or poor food can make your hair look dull4 ,but more often1 dull hair is due to lack of care4 ,you can add to the luster of your hair by shampooing it often4 ,brushing will also add to its beauty4 ,shampoo ,the base of any good hair style is a good shampoo4 ,there is no set time for a shampoo4 ,shampoo your hair when it is soiled4 ,you may want to shampoo it every five days if your hair is oily4 ,every week may be often enough if it is dry4 ,use plenty of warm water and a good shampoo when you wash your hair4 ,shampoos are made for oily1 normal1 and dry hair4 ,ask the beautician which one is best for your hair4 ,rinse thoroughly to remove the shampoo and to add luster to your hair4 ,style ,since your hair is a frame for your face1 a nice arrangement adds to your good looks4 ,hair worn in a simple style is easy to manage4 ,good hair styling is important4 ,if your hair is shaped properly1 it will take the shape of the cut4 ,your hair styling will then be beautiful and becoming4 ,here is a trick for finding your hair style4 ,when your hair is wet1 mold it around your face and try several parts4 ,try curving your part4 ,it is more interesting than a straight one4 ,always bring out your beauty spots4 ,if you have a beautiful hair line1 display it4 ,hair is styled for the individual4 ,try new hair styles4 ,there are many designed for girls your age4 ,brush and comb ,brush your hair regularly with a boar-bristle brush for stimulation and to cleanse your hair4 ,brush your hair carefully4 ,too vigorous brushing may break the ends of your hair4 ,the same is true of combing4 ,set your hair in pincurls as often as is necessary to have your hair look well-groomed4 ,comb your hair thoroughly when it is dry4 ,set the waves or curls by combing through the hair slowly4 ,this gives you control of your hair4 ,patterns for you ,there are many attractive clothing patterns in our current fashion books4 ,choose a style you like and feel you can make4 ,be sure it has lines that are becoming to your figure and size4 ,you may need a style that is entirely different from the one your girl friend needs4 ,your mother and leader will be glad to help you make a choice4 ,this is probably the first time you have used a pattern4 ,select one that has only a few pieces4 ,avoid details such as collars1 set-in sleeves1 and yokes4 ,select a pattern you can wear to school4 ,the size pattern you will need is determined by your bust measurement4 ,after you have selected your pattern1 study the chart on the back of the envelope4 ,it will tell you how much fabric you need and what trimmings to buy4 ,buy your pattern and fabric at the same time4 ,illustration3 ,measurements for fitting ,fabrics you will like ,when you select your fabric1 the important thing to think about is3 ,what am ,i going to make from this fabric8 ,when and where will ,i wear it8 ,then choose the right design1 color1 and weight for your pattern4 ,you will want fabrics that are pretty1 fun to sew1 and fun to wear4 ,color ,what colors do you like best8 ,usually the colors you like are the ones that flatter you4 ,hold the fabric to your face to see how you will look in it4 ,does it make your hair1 eyes1 and skin look prettier8 ,will it go with other colors of the clothing you already own8 ,is it a color you can wear to school this fall8 ,is it a color you can find thread and trimming to match8 ,it is the color for you if it meets all these requirements4 ,design ,study the fabrics for the size1 color1 and placing of the design in the fabric4 ,do you want to count the number of spots on it8 ,is the design too large or too small8 ,a design that is small with interesting colors without one part of the design being brighter than all others will make the prettier dress or apron4 ,larger1 brighter1 and bolder designs and colors make attractive beach robes and bags4 ,you will find it more difficult to make an attractive dress or apron from plain colors1 plaids1 and stripes4 ,plain colors show every mistake you make and plaids and stripes are difficult to match4 ,border prints are used for pleated or gathered skirts4 ,try to match the design at the seams4 ,cotton fabrics are beautiful and there are many types of fabrics made from cotton4 ,learn to recognize at least five3 ,percale1 broadcloth1 sail cloth1 cotton satin1 and terry cloth4 ,there are many interesting novelty fabrics on the market4 ,they have different weaves and finishes4 ,when you visit the store see if you can find at least three novelty fabrics--embossed cotton1 woven stripes1 and a pattern weave4 ,illustration3 ,i ,,know ,,these ,,fabrics--,,do ,,you8 ,new finishes ,new finishes make cottons more crease resistant and easier to wash and iron4 ,but finishes sometimes make fabrics harder to sew and press4 ,you will find a finished cotton will make a crisper looking dress and will be worth the extra work it takes to press the seams while you are making it4 ,labels ,read the information on the label on the end of the bolt4 ,it will tell you if the fabric is color fast1 shrink resistant1 crease resistant1 and either hand-or-machine washable4 ,a good cotton fabric has all these features4 ,examine the fabric ,examine a torn end of the fabric4 ,if the ends and designs are uneven1 look for another piece of fabric4 ,an uneven fabric with a finish cannot be straightened and you will not be able to cut your dress on the straight of the grain4 ,crush the fabric in your hand4 ,select one that is soft and difficult to wrinkle4 ,tours ,plan a shopping tour with your club4 ,take your mother with you so she can help you select fabrics for your projects4 ,select all the fabrics you need for your project at one time4 ,choose colors and fabrics that look good together4 ,remember that you will be wearing your blouse with your skirt so they must look well together4 ,the bag or scarf you make must also harmonize with your skirt and blouse or your other clothes4 ,also think about the time you will finish your dress and select a style and color that will be pretty then4 ,shopping is fun ,before you go shopping1 make a list of all the things you will need to buy for your project--equipment1 fabrics1 thread4 ,if you did not have a tracing wheel and paper last year1 you may need them this year4 ,make it a habit to buy everything you need in one trip to the store4 ,fabrics for-- ,check what you need ,dress or skirt ,beach bag or robe1 scarf1 or apron ,thread to match ,fasteners1 hooks and eyes snaps zipper buttons velcro ,pattern1 size ,scissors ,pins1 dressmaker ,measuring gauge ,needles--#g-i sharp ,thimble ,tape measure ,before you start to sew ,study your pattern ,illustration3 ,studying pattern ,study the instruction sheet carefully before you unfold your pattern4 ,this will help you know each piece of your pattern as you unfold it4 ,when unfolding it1 put your initials on each piece4 ,you will find an arrow on each piece of the pattern that tells you how the pattern is to be placed on your cloth4 ,this mark is called the 8grain line40 ,learn to recognize marks for fold1 seamline1 darts1 tucks1 hems1 center front and center back1 buttons1 and buttonholes4 ,when you can recognize all the marks on your pattern1 trim off the edges and pin it together4 ,have your leader check it for fit4 ,she will help you make any alterations that are necessary4 ,straighten your fabric ,illustration3 ,straight fabric ,study your fabric4 ,you will find there are threads running lengthwise 7warp threads7 with other threads woven in and out of these 7crosswise or filling threads74 ,each of these threads should be straight1 not curved or slanted4 ,if the end of the fabric has not been torn1 pull one thread near the end that will go all the way across the fabric4 ,cut along this line4 ,illustration3 ,pulled thread ,illustration3 ,pulling on the bias ,now if the ends of the fabric are not even1 have your leader or mother help you straighten the cloth by pulling on the bias1 as is being done in the picture4 ,when the cloth is straight1 pin the edges together4 ,now pin the pattern to your cloth4 ,crease-resistant fabric cannot be straightened4 ,pin and cut ,you need a large smooth surface for pinning and cutting4 ,a big table is best1 but you can use a clean floor4 ,study your pattern layout4 ,fold your cloth and pin your pattern as suggested4 ,place the big pattern pieces on first4 ,see that the line that shows the straight of the grain is placed exactly on the lengthwise 8grain0 or thread of the cloth4 ,illustration3 ,pattern placed on fabric ,,selvage ,,straight ,,of ,,grain ,measure from the selvage to this line1 making sure the distance is equal at all points4 ,pin at each end of mark as measurements are made4 ,now pin around the edge of your pattern4 ,place the pins at right angles to the edge4 ,have your leader check the pattern on your cloth before you cut4 ,use long sharp shears4 ,take long strokes to give an even edge4 ,cut close to the pattern4 ,illustration3 ,cutting pattern ,cut notches out1 not into your seam allowance4 ,before you remove the pattern1 mark all darts1 tucks1 seams1 buttons1 and buttonholes4 ,ask your leader to show you how to make tailor's tacks or how to use dressmakers' tracing paper4 ,use the lightest-colored paper that will show on your cloth4 ,page #ac tells you more about guide lines4 ,check your machine ,before you start to sew1 check the machine stitch4 ,your seams will not hold if the stitch is not perfect4 ,try your machine stitch on a double piece of cloth4 ,stitch on the bias and the straight4 ,does the stitch look the same on both sides8 ,if not1 have your leader adjust the tension while you watch to see how she does it4 ,for a review of what you learned about the sewing machine in your other projects1 practice sewing on a sample of your fabric until you get the feel of the machine4 ,when you can run the machine smoothly1 make one of the following articles for practice--scarf1 draw-string bag1 apron1 or swimming robe4 ,cloth guide ,a cloth guide on your machine will aid in making the stitching straight4 ,place a strip of colored scotch tape on the machine inch1 or the width desired1 from the needle if a gauge is not available4 ,keep the edge of the cloth along the inside of the tape or guide as you sew4 ,watch the edge of the tape not the machine needle4 ,the pressure foot is a good gauge for edge stitching4 ,it is easy to stitch close to the edge of a hem if you let the edge of the cloth follow the inside of the presser foot4 ,a inch seam can be made by letting the edge follow the outside of the presser foot4 ,practice on an easy-to-make article ,draw-string bag ,illustration3 ,draw-string bag ,you may make a draw-string bag to review what you learned last year4 ,this may be any size4 ,it can be used for your sewing1 swimming suit1 as a hand bag1 or for many other purposes4 ,materials needed ,fabric3 ,percale1 sail cloth1 denim1 terry cloth1 or towel4 ,if you use a towel1 select one approximately #ad x #bc or #ah x #bh4 ,lining3 ,plastic bag4 ,cording3 ,cotton or nylon cording4 ,make your bag ,first decide how long and how wide you would like to have your bag4 ,make it just large enough for the purpose you plan to use it for4 ,don't make it too large4 ,follow these suggestions #a4 ,pull threads to straighten material and cut on these lines4 #b4 ,cut two pieces of cloth for the bag1 the size you want your bag to be4 ,if you have enough cloth1 you may cut one piece twice as long and eliminate the bottom seam4 ,when a towel is used1 remove the hems at both ends4 #c4 ,place the two pieces with right sides together or fold through the center if one piece is used4 #d4 ,pin or baste sides leaving the top open4 #e4 ,measure from the top or open end of the bag -inch and mark with chalk4 ,illustration3 ,bag pattern #f4 ,take another measurement from the top1 this one #d inches down and mark4 #g4 ,stitch a -inch seam from top to first mark1 and fasten or back tack thread4 ,stitch below second markings4 ,leave the space between markings open on both sides of bag4 #h4 ,make a -inch slash in the seam at lower markings and finish openings with -inch hems4 ,illustration3 ,hemming the bag #i4 ,make a #b-;inch hem at top4 ,stitch through the center of the hem to make a #a-;inch wide casing and heading4 ,if you are making a swimming bag1 why not line it with plastic4 ,either use a sheet or plastic bag4 ,make it the same size as your bag4 ,at this point place the plastic under the hem4 ,pin or baste into position4 ,turn right side out4 ,stitch hem4 ,use long stitches #f or #h to an inch when sewing plastic4 ,small stitches will cut it4 #aj4 ,make or buy the cords for your bag4 ,make two cords inch wide finished1 #a yard each in length4 7,see apron sashes--,phase #b47 ,you may buy cotton or nylon cord4 ,for a small bag use size #ajj2 use size #aej for a large bag4 #aa4 ,run cords through casing4 ,start each cord at opposite ends4 ,sew ends of cord together or tie a knot4 ,illustration3 ,stitching the bag #ab4 ,box the bottom of the bag4 ,fold from corner so that side and bottom seams are together4 ,mark and stitch across triangle4 ,swimming robe ,illustration3 ,swimming robes ,,tie or ,,buttons ,,and ,,loop ,,elastic or ,,draw ,,string ,swimming is now a popular sport in ,oregon so you may want to make a swimming robe4 ,you may make one like the one pictured or select an easy-to-make pattern from your favorite pattern book4 ,or1 adapt an overblouse pattern4 ,just cut it long enough to cover your swim suit4 ,here is an easy one to make4 ,it is mostly hems4 ,fabric3 ,approximately #a yards of terry cloth1 sail cloth1 percale1 denim1 or other absorbent cotton4 ,how to cut #a4 ,fold fabric in half lengthwise4 #b4 ,measure in from cut end #ag inches and mark4 ,illustration3 ,robe pattern ,,front ,,back ,fold ,,selvage #c4 ,measure down from top #ab inches to mark arm hole4 ,then measure across end #b inches on each side of mark4 ,cut along these marks4 ,this marks the top of the side dart4 #d4 ,mark dart4 ,measure #d inches from bottom and mark4 ,then mark from this point to top ends of dart4 7,see diagram47 ,make final marks for darts with tailor's tacks or dressmakers' tracing paper4 ,how to ,make #a4 ,fold robe through dart and armhole4 ,pin and stitch shoulder seams4 ,make shoulder #aj inches long4 ,measure from arm hole4 ,make a #b-;inch seam4 #b4 ,pin underarm dart--#b inches wide at underarm and slope to a point #d inches from bottom4 ,stitch4 7,see darts page #ac47 #c4 ,press a #a-;inch hem all around robe including shoulder seams and armholes 7see phase #a74 ,to make hem turn edge back #b inches and press1 then press inch under to make #a inch hem4 ,press1 pin1 and stitch hems in this order3 ,first--front2 second--neck2 third--armscye2 fourth--bottom4 ,stitching the hems in this order will leave the ends of the hem open so a draw-string can be placed in the top and bottom hem4 ,if a draw-string is not used1 the front hem may be made last4 #d4 ,reinforce underarm with bias or hem tape4 ,machine stitch around edge4 ,fastenings #a4 ,draw-strings or ties #b4 ,belt #c4 ,velcro #d4 ,large buttons and loop buttonholes #e4 ,large snaps #f4 ,buttons and buttonholes ,apron or scarf ,if you did not make an apron or scarf in your second year of club work1 you may choose to make one of these now4 ,turn back to your second-year outline for these instructions4 ,illustration3 ,scarf ,make clothes for school or play ,illustration3 ,dresses ,if you have completed and judged your small article1 you are ready to start your main article4 ,you may make a skirt and blouse1 or a dress4 ,you talked this over with your mother and leader at your first meeting4 ,by now you should have your fabric and pattern and all the other things you will need to make your chosen article4 ,easy-to-make blouse ,if you make a blouse1 select a pattern which will be easy to make4 ,choose a pattern with few pieces and without set-in sleeves or collar4 ,follow the directions in your pattern for making your blouse4 ,learn what all the markings mean4 ,stay-stitch the bias edges4 ,page #ac tells you how to stay-stitch4 ,select cloth for your blouse that will look good with your skirt4 ,be sure the cloth is firm1 pre-shrunk1 and colorfast4 ,gathered skirt ,select fabric that is colorful and gay for your skirt4 ,closely woven cloth will be easy to sew and will hold a sharp crease4 ,you will need from #c to #c yards of fabric for your skirt4 ,the more fabric you try to gather in your skirt the harder it will be to make4 ,for the girl of average height cut your skirt as follows3 ,how to cut your skirt ,cut or tear a #f-;inch strip from one side of your skirt fabric4 ,measure in from the selvage edge4 ,use this for the skirt band and pockets4 ,there will be some left over4 ,tear off the selvage edge from the large piece4 ,you may have to cut the band from the end of your fabric instead of the side if you are tall and need the extra length4 ,the above method of cutting gives you one seam on the placket side4 ,illustration3 ,skirt pattern #f ,,selvage ,,band ,,pocket ,,pocket ,,cut ,,or ,,tear ,,selvage ,sometimes the design in the fabric will be more attractive if the skirt is cut in several lengths4 ,when this is necessary1 you will have three or four seams in your skirt4 ,this may make a difference in the amount of fabric you will need1 so decide how you will cut your skirt before buying your fabric4 ,make your skirt ,illustration3 ,pinning the seam #e #a ,,seam ,pin the short edges together to make the side seam4 ,make the seam #a inches wide4 ,it is to be used for the placket4 ,when finished the placket will be on the left side4 ,stitch the side seam4 ,stitch the seam from the bottom up4 ,at a point #e inches from the top1 turn and stitch half way across the seam4 ,turn both edges of the seam toward the front section and press4 ,illustration3 ,stitching the seam #e ,,trim ,,to ,trim the seams4 ,start at the bottom of the wide seam and trim it to inch wide up to the placket4 ,do not trim above this point4 ,finish the placket #a4 ,baste and stitch a -inch hem on the back edge of the placket4 ,illustration3 ,hemming the back edge ,,hem ,,skirt ,,back #b4 ,fold the front edge of the placket even with the seam line4 ,press4 ,now fold again to make a complete hem4 ,baste4 ,illustration3 ,completing the hem ,,fold ,,skirt ,,front #c4 ,pin placket together1 stitch from the top to the bottom of the placket1 turn and stitch across the end on top of first stitching4 ,pull threads through and tie ends4 ,this is a strong1 easy-to-make placket4 ,illustration3 ,finishing the placket ,,hem ,,back ,,hem ,,front ,hem the skirt ,skirts look best with hand-stitched hems4 ,make the hem before placing the band on the skirt4 ,unless you have poor posture1 it will hang even4 ,decide how long you would like your finished skirt to be4 ,be careful not to make it too short4 ,measure from the top edge to the length you would like the skirt to be and press in the hem4 ,turn the top edge of the hem under inch4 ,your skirt will be prettier if you make a wide hem--#c inches or wider4 ,when the hem has been carefully pressed and put in place1 ask your leader to show you a hand hemming stitch4 ,place gathering threads at top of skirt ,make a long stitch on your machine4 ,use size #ej top thread and heavy duty for bobbin thread4 ,using the guide on your machine1 stitch around the top of your skirt inch from the edge4 ,make two more rows inch apart4 ,you are now ready to make your skirt band4 ,illustration3 ,skirt band ,make the skirt band #a4 ,measure your waist4 ,add #b inches4 ,this will give you the length needed for your skirt band4 ,cut your band #f inches wide4 #b4 ,press a -inch fold along one side of your band4 ,from the folded edge divide the rest into three sections4 ,this gives three #b-;inch sections4 ,make the section with the -inch fold slightly shorter than the other two sections4 ,press4 #c4 ,the section with the -inch fold is the front of your band4 ,stitch criss-cross through the back part of the band4 ,you can stitch straighter if you make a guide or pattern4 ,cut a strip of waxed paper the length and width of your band1 #bd x #b inches4 ,illustration3 ,folded waxed paper ,fold it in six equal sections4 ,then fold it diagonally2 then diagonally again4 ,open the paper and pin it to the band and follow the creases in the paper4 ,this will give practice on starting and stopping the machine and on turning corners4 ,tear the paper away after the stitching is completed4 ,illustration3 ,stitching the seam #d4 ,stitch a -inch seam at the ends of the band4 ,turn and press4 ,do not sew the -inch fold at bottom of band into the seam4 ,gather in fullness ,divide both your skirt and the skirt band into eight equal parts to help you make the gathers even in your skirt4 ,do not include the placket or #a-;inch overlap at the end of the band4 ,mark with colored threads4 ,mark the skirt band so the extension or extra length will be on the back of the placket4 ,the front of band will be even with the front edge of the placket4 ,pin and stitch band to skirt4 ,pin the pieces together1 right side of skirt to right side of band4 ,match dividing marks that you have made4 ,gently pull on the gathering threads at the side seams1 the center front and the center back4 ,pull the threads until they are the same length as the band4 ,work with the gathers until they are even4 ,baste and stitch along half-inch fold on the skirt band4 ,top stitch the band ,fold the double section of your band toward the back and baste the edge of the band to the skirt4 ,baste it so the folded edge hangs just below the stitching you just made on the front side of the band4 ,machine stitch from the front side of the band4 ,place the stitching as near the edge of the band as you can4 ,press before you stitch4 ,pressing will flatten the seam and make stitching easier4 ,illustration3 ,finished skirt ,press your skirt ,press your skirt4 ,use a dampened cheesecloth and an iron set for ironing cotton1 or use a steam iron4 ,a skirt must be well pressed and fresh looking to be pretty4 ,illustration3 ,pressed skirt ,fastenings for the skirt ,see ,phase #b4 ,gored skirt ,you may make a four-gored skirt4 ,if you do1 you will need a pattern4 ,follow the instructions on the guide sheet4 ,school dress ,this is your first dress4 ,avoid set-in sleeves1 collars1 yokes1 and gussets4 ,use cotton fabrics4 ,study the instruction sheet in your pattern and follow it as closely as you can4 ,know what every mark on the pattern means before you start to sew4 ,this will make it easier for you4 ,pin your cloth so it is straight4 ,place the pattern on the 8straight of the grain0 and cut with long1 even strokes4 ,cut all the notches pointing out4 ,after the cloth is cut1 transfer the marks onto the fabric before removing the pattern4 ,use a tracing wheel whenever possible4 ,use tailor's tacks on white or pastel colors4 ,stay-stitch around all the bias and curved edges as soon as you remove the pattern4 ,remember to press as you sew4 ,press each seam as it is made4 ,pressing makes sewing easier and improves the looks of your dress4 ,hem your dress on the sewing machine if it has a full gathered skirt or by hand on flared or straight skirts or on plain colored fabric4 ,use a matching thread4 ,how does your costume look to you8 ,once again1 score your own and other club members' work4 ,record your judging on your own work in your record book4 ,these are the points to use in judging4 ,your score #a4 ,fabric or trimming used #be ,is it suitable for school or play8 ,will it launder8 ,will it wear well8 #b4 ,workmanship #ce ,are they well made8 ,are seams1 hems1 finishes good choices8 #c4 ,design and color #bj ,are design and color attractive8 ,are they right for you8 #d4 ,condition of article #aj ,is it clean8 ,is it well pressed8 #e4 ,value of garment #aj ,is there good value for the time and money spent8 ,total #ajj ,tips for easier sewing ,trace guide lines on fabric ,illustration3 ,tracing guide lines ,,cloth ,,tracing ,,paper ,,pattern ,it takes very little time to trace the markings for darts1 seams1 and buttonholes from the pattern on the fabric if dressmakers' carbon and a tracing wheel are used4 ,trace the markings while the pattern is still pinned to the fabric4 ,place the carbon waxed side to wrong side of fabric4 ,both sides may be marked at the same time4 ,use white or light-colored paper wherever possible4 ,dark colors have a tendency to work through to the right side4 ,trace all pattern markings that are essential to making the dress--darts1 notches1 pleats1 openings1 and buttonholes4 ,use a ruler to trace straight lines4 ,make a bar at ends of darts and tucks4 ,use tailor's tacks for white or pastel fabrics4 ,tailor's tacks ,illustration3 ,using tailor's tacks ,,seam ,,line ,,clip ,,through ,,loop ,,shorten ,,ends ,use double thread of darning cotton to make tailor's tacks4 ,before taking your first stitch make a hole in the pattern with the point of your needle4 ,take one stitch through pattern and double thickness of fabric1 then go over with another stitch1 leaving loop and long end4 ,after all marked stitches have been made1 remove pattern1 separate fabric carefully1 and clip threads between the two layers of fabric4 ,stay-stitch the bias edges ,one of the most important steps you take to keep the cloth from stretching out of shape is to stay-stitch the edges4 ,stitch along the curved and bias edges4 ,these edges would be the neck1 shoulders1 waist1 armscye1 and upper hip line4 ,stay-stitching is done on each piece separately1 through a single thickness4 ,stitch inch from the edge of the cloth1 or inch from seamline4 ,illustration3 ,stay-stitching ,,outside ,,center ,,back ,,outside ,,center ,,front ,,outside ,,center ,,back ,pin and sew darts ,the purpose of the dart is to shape the fabric to the body4 ,after the dart is properly marked1 pin the two markings together and stitch from the large end of the dart to the point4 ,near the point1 guide the fabric so that the stitches will be only a thread or two from the edge of the fold4 ,fasten the threads by back stitching or by tying the threads4 ,sew from the highest to the lowest point or from the widest to the narrowest point1 as shown by arrows on the diagrams to prevent stretching during stitching4 ,illustration3 ,cutting a dart ,make strong seams ,the life of your clothing is determined by the kind and quality of its seams4 ,there are many types of seams and seam finishes4 ,each one has a special purpose4 ,plain seam ,illustration3 ,plain seam ,the plain seam is the most commonly used and is the first step in making other types of seams4 ,the plain seam is made on the wrong side of the garment4 ,to make a plain seam1 place the right sides of the fabric together4 ,pin and sew a seam the desired width4 ,this is usually inch4 ,follow the instructions in your pattern4 ,use this seam on your blouse1 skirt1 and dress4 ,seam finishes ,finishes are used on fabrics to prevent the edges from fraying4 ,use one of the following finishes3 ,pinked edges ,illustration3 ,pinked edges ,use pinking shears1 if you are able to handle them4 ,trim off only the very edge of your seam4 ,be very careful4 ,edge stitching ,illustration3 ,edge stitching ,after the plain seam is pressed open1 machine stitch along each edge of the seam4 ,this is a stronger finish than the pinked edge4 ,selvage ,the selvage may be left as a seam finish on your skirt4 ,clip the selvage every #b or #c inches4 ,the clip should be no deeper than inch4 ,a deeper cut will ruin the seam4 ,your seams are not complete until you have pressed them4 ,remember1 always press a seam before joining it to another seam4 ,make a fitted facing ,edges that cannot be hemmed may be finished with either bias or fitted facings4 ,facings can be turned to the right or wrong side of an article4 ,they may be part of the decoration if used on the right side4 ,fitting and stitching #a4 ,stay-stitch neck and shoulders4 #b4 ,insert a basting line to mark center front and back of the facing and blouse4 ,use darning cotton4 #c4 ,sew shoulder seams of blouse and facing4 ,press4 #d4 ,press a inch hem around the facing4 ,miter the corners and stitch4 #e4 ,pin facing to blouse1 matching shoulder seams and centers4 ,baste centers of front and of back together4 #f4 ,machine stitch a4 ,stitch around the neckline1 inch seam4 b4 ,stitch center front4 ,start at point inch from center fold1 stitch to point ,b4 ,b4 is almost on center fold4 ,turn1 take #c small stitches 7#ad-af_/;inch71 turn again1 and stitch to point ,c1 inch from center fold4 ,illustration3 ,machine-stitched blouse #g4 ,cut along center fold to point ,b4 ,trim neck seam to inch and clip seam every inch4 #h4 ,trim off corners at neck openings4 #i4 ,turn facing and press4 ,after facing edge is finished1 tack it to the shoulder seam of blouse4 ,finishing edges ,if the facing is to be used for decoration1 the edge of the facing will be stitched to the blouse or dress4 ,make good hems ,straight hems ,you made straight hems on your scarf and on your apron last year4 ,here is a general review on how to make a hem4 ,if you need more help1 see your last year's bulletin4 ,narrow hems ,make a fold inch wide2 press4 ,fold this over and press again4 ,pin and stitch4 ,wide hems ,make -inch fold along the edge4 ,then measure the width your hem is to be when finished4 ,pin1 press1 and stitch4 ,hems for your skirt and dress ,illustration3 ,marking a hem #a4 ,use a yardstick or other device to measure the distance you want your skirt from the floor4 ,mark with pins1 about #c inches apart around the skirt4 ,illustration3 ,folding and pinning a hem #b4 ,fold along the pin-line4 ,pin and baste along edges of hem4 ,pin top of hem to skirt4 #c4 ,try the dress on to check length and evenness of hem4 #d4 ,trim hem to desired width4 ,the width of the hem is determined by weight of fabric and fullness of skirt4 ,suggested widths-- ,moderately flared and medium weight #b to #c inches ,straight skirt of sheer fabric up to #d inches ,heavy skirts of wool or cotton #b inches or less ,flared skirts #a inches ,circle skirts inch or rolled ,illustration3 ,hem of circular skirt #e4 ,in circular skirts the top of the hem is always much fuller than the bottom of the hem4 ,to avoid a bulge1 draw this fullness to lie flat against the skirt4 ,lengthen the stitch on the machine and sew around top of the hem inch from the edge4 ,place another row of stitches inch from the first row4 ,pin the seams and centers of panels and draw the bobbin thread until the top part of hem is only slightly larger than the skirt4 ,ease in the fullness4 ,this step is not necessary on straight skirts4 ,illustration3 ,stitching a hem #f4 ,make a -inch fold at the top of the hem4 ,machine stitch along edge4 ,pin and baste in place4 ,hem on the machine or by hand4 ,use matching thread4 ,blind hemming ,illustration3 ,blind hemming #a4 ,fasten thread securely in the hem4 #b4 ,take a stitch directly across from the spot where you first placed your thread4 ,then take a -inch stitch through the top of the hem4 #c4 ,take a stitch in the skirt in the same spot where you pulled needle from the hem4 #d4 ,repeat for each stitch4 ,this stitch hides the threads in hem and wears well4 ,choose fastenings you can make yourself ,what type of fasteners does your pattern suggest8 ,you have skill enough now to make any one of several types4 ,remember1 choose the kind of fasteners you can make yourself and do them the very best you can4 ,you have already learned the method of sewing on buttons1 snaps1 and hooks and eyes4 ,if you use any of the fasteners1 sew them on securely4 ,see ,phase #b4 ,make your buttonholes with a machine attachment4 ,a zipper may be necessary if you make a dress4 ,read the instructions that come with your zipper and study your pattern for help in putting it in your dress4 ,belt keepers ,you might like to put belt loops on your dress at the side seam if your dress has a belt4 ,worked loops are fun to make4 ,illustration3 ,belt keeper ,blanket stitch waistline #a4 ,use matching double thread4 #b4 ,hold the belt in place on dress and loop thread back and forth across it three or four times4 ,take a knot stitch each time you sew into fabric4 #c4 ,remove the belt4 #d4 ,work across the threads with blanket stitch4 ,keep stitches close together4 ,select a belt for your dress at your local store or have one made to match your dress4 ,you will learn to make belts when you have had more experience in sewing4 ,complete your record book ,your record book is important4 ,are you enjoying keeping a record of the things you make and do8 ,have you recorded the articles you have made8 ,have you recorded the activities you have participated in on your permanent record8 ,how complete is this chapter of your #d-;,h ,club story8 ,are there other things you should add--while you can still remember8 ,are you keeping a scrapbook of pictures and newspaper clippings to round-out your #d-;,h ,club story8 ,are you keeping other kinds of things such as certificates and ribbons in your scrapbook8 ,if you belong to more than one club are you keeping all of the things that have to do with each project together8 ,show others what you have learned ,exhibits ,showing others what you have made can be fun4 ,plan with your club to have a display for your mothers and fathers4 ,share with them the things you have learned in making your projects4 ,if you exhibit at the fair your exhibit will be the main article you made4 ,be sure that it is clearly labeled so that it can be returned to you4 ,give a demonstration ,there are many opportunities to share the things you have learned with others by giving demonstrations4 ,watch for these opportunities--other than your club meetings4 ,select one of the demonstrations you prepared for your club or prepare a new one4 ,here are a few suggestions from which you might choose4 ,gathers for a gathered skirt ,laying the pattern on the fabric ,how to stay-stitch ,how to thread and use a sewing machine ,make a hem for a straight skirt ,seams for dresses1 blouses1 and skirts ,how to make a swimming bag ,how to make a head scarf ,are you ready for the next project8 #a4 ,have you kept your record book up to date and had it signed8 #b4 ,have you studied health and good grooming8 #c4 ,have you made two or more articles8 ,keep this bulletin4 ,you will need it for your next project4 ,when you have completed all the #d-;,h clothing projects1 you will have a complete sewing book4 ,,the #d-;,h ,,club ,,pledge ,i pledge 444 my ,,head to clearer thinking my ,,heart to greater loyalty my ,,hands to larger service my ,,health to better living for my club1 my community1 and my country4 ,,the #d-;,h ,,club ,,motto to make the best better ,cooperative ,extension work in ,agriculture and ,home ,economics1 ,f4 ,e4 ,price1 director4 ,oregon ,state ,university and the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture cooperating4 ,printed and distributed in furtherance of ,acts of ,congress of ,may #h and ,june #cj1 #aiad4 #ab,m--,september #aifa4 ,transcriber's ,notes --,silently corrected a few typos4 --,retained publication information from the printed edition3 this e,book is public-domain in the country of publication4 --,in the text versions only1 text in italics is delimited by underscores4