,,it',s ,,fun ,,to ,,sew aprons and skirts ,,cooperative ,,extension ,,service ,,phase #b ,,oregon ,,state ,,university1 ,,corvallis #d-;,h ,,club ,,series ,l-#hf ,it's ,fun to ,sew--,aprons and ,skirts ,,theta ,,johnson ,clothing ,specialist1 ,extension ,service ,utah ,state ,university ,logan1 ,utah ,,phase #b ,where to find page ,your guide for the project #a ,plan your project #a ,take care of your clothing #b ,shine your shoes #b ,sew on buttons #b ,assemble your sewing tools #c ,do your shopping #c ,buying cotton fabric #c ,learn to use the sewing machine #d ,learn to press cotton #f ,sew--have fun #g ,make a scarf #g ,make a sewing kit #h ,make ,,tv slippers #h ,make your apron or skirt #i ,peasant apron with band #aj ,peasant apron with elastic top #ab ,gathered skirt #ac ,how does your apron or skirt look to you8 #af ,complete your record book #ag ,show others what you have learned #ag ,exhibits #ag ,give a demonstration #ag ,are you ready for the next project8 #ag ,read this book from cover to cover before you start your project4 ,your guide for the project ,learn to sew--have fun4 ,this book will help you get the right start on your second #d-;,h clothing project4 ,read it carefully and study the pictures4 ,ask your mother to read and study with you4 ,follow the instructions and you will form good habits4 ,this project is planned for you4 ,learn to do each part step by step4 ,keep this book in your sewing box4 ,refer to it whenever you need help4 ,study these subjects #a4 ,care of clothing-- sew on buttons shine your shoes keep dresses on hangers in closets or placed neatly in drawers #b4 ,good grooming-- keep neat and tidy practice good health habits #c4 ,cotton fabrics #d4 ,use of your sewing machine ,articles to make ,one of the following first for practice ,head scarf--single ,head scarf--double ,sewing kit ,,tv slippers ,an apron or skirt as your main project ,gathered skirt ,peasant apron ,elastic top apron ,cover-all apron ,add to your record book ,your ,county extension agent will give you your #d-;,h record sheets4 ,keep your clothing record up to date4 ,write your #d-;,h story for the year when you complete your project4 ,be sure to fill in your permanent record1 too4 ,there are places on your permanent record to show the activities you have participated in--be sure to keep a record of them4 ,activities plus project work make a well-rounded #d-;,h program4 ,learn to give a demonstration ,show others what you have learned by giving a demonstration at one of your club meetings4 ,when you show another club member how to tie a knot or sew on a button1 you are giving a 8demonstration40 ,things that are done or seen are remembered longest4 ,give your demonstration alone or with a partner4 ,you will find demonstrations interesting and helpful4 ,ask your leader to give you ideas on how to give a demonstration4 ,choose a topic you have studied in your project4 ,plan your project ,you will want to talk about your project with your mother and leader4 ,this will help you to understand your project4 ,study the project outline and your record book4 ,take your mother with you to your first #d-;,h club meeting4 ,you will need your mother's cooperation in selecting equipment and cloth4 ,plan to do all your shopping at one time4 ,buy the cloth for your apron or skirt and slippers or scarf at the time you buy your sewing equipment4 ,this will save you time4 ,before you go shopping make a list of all of the things you will need4 ,think about the blouses or dresses you have when you plan the colors for your skirt or apron4 ,you may want to wear your scarf and skirt together--if you do1 plan the colors to go together4 ,this project is more than just sewing4 ,you will study health and good grooming and how to care for your clothes4 ,get off to a good start by learning how to care for your shoes and how to sew on buttons4 ,take care of your clothing ,shine your shoes ,daily care will improve the looks of your shoes and will help make them wear longer4 ,clean and polish your shoes4 ,wipe them off with a clean 7wool7 cloth and brush away the loose dirt before you put them away4 ,when they need polishing1 use one of the many good polishes that are on the market4 ,select the kind that is best for the leather in your shoes4 ,follow the directions given with the polish4 ,illustration3 ,shoe ,shoes become damp from perspiration when you wear them4 ,wearing socks will protect the lining4 ,allow your shoes to dry thoroughly between wearings4 ,filling the toes of your shoes with tissue paper will help absorb the moisture4 ,examine your shoes for signs of wear4 ,keep the heels straight and do not wear the sole through before having it repaired4 ,have all rips mended as soon as they appear4 ,do not place wet shoes near heat or in the sun to dry4 ,when they are dry1 clean and polish them to make them look like new4 ,your dress is only as pretty as the shoes you wear with it4 ,are you proud of the care you give your shoes8 ,keep a record of the care you give your shoes in your record book4 ,sew on buttons ,to help mother care for the family clothing1 why don't you take the responsibility of replacing buttons on shirts and blouses for the family4 ,make a game of it with other members of your club4 ,have a button contest4 ,give yourself a point for each button you sew on4 ,the club could plan to give a prize to the girl who sews on the most buttons during the club year4 ,keep a record of the buttons you sew on1 something like this3 ,date ,article of clothing ,points--or number of buttons ,record the total in your record book4 ,use buttons to trim your bedroom slippers4 ,select one flat1 medium-sized one or three small ones4 ,arrange them on the toes of your slippers to make an attractive trim4 ,how to sew on a button #a4 ,make a small knot in double thread 7#ae inches long74 ,fasten to article where center of the button is to be placed4 ,take two or three stitches over the knot4 #b4 ,sew the button in place with one or two stitches4 ,see that the stitches run in the same direction as the buttonhole4 ,illustration3 ,sewing on a button #c4 ,place a pin on top of buttons under the first stitches4 ,this makes a shank4 ,continue to sew on the button4 ,take as many stitches as necessary to hold the button securely4 ,when the stitches are in place1 remove the pin4 ,lift the button away from the article4 ,wind the thread tightly around the stitches1 as shown1 and fasten the thread on the back by taking three or four stitches1 one on top of the other4 ,assemble your sewing tools ,you will need a sewing box or basket and good sewing tools4 ,obtain a small box to hold your tools and another one large enough to hold your small box plus your apron or skirt4 ,a small suitcase makes an ideal sewing box4 ,illustration3 ,sewing tools ,you will need ,thimble--,this is for the middle finger4 ,make sure of a snug fit4 ,a thimble protects your finger4 ,needles--,a package of needles1 assorted sizes of #g to #i sharps1 will give you the various sizes needed4 ,use as fine a needle as will carry the thread you are using4 ,thread--,white mercerized thread ,no4 #ej is used for basting4 ,match other thread to your fabric4 ,pins--,select smooth fine dressmaker pins so they will not leave a dark spot on your cloth4 ,these usually come in a box4 ,pin cushion--,plan for a pin cushion that can be worn on the wrist4 ,you may make or buy this4 ,scissors and shears--,scissors have short blades and are used for snipping threads and cutting small pieces of material4 ,seven-inch blades are a good length4 ,shears have one long handle for the fingers and one short one for the thumb4 ,scissors with bent handles are handy because the cutting blade rests flat on the table4 ,use plain scissors to cut out your articles4 ,do not use pinking shears4 ,tape measure--,select a tape measure that will wear well and one that is numbered with 8#a0 on each end on opposite sides4 ,measuring gauge--,you can cut a gauge from cardboard or buy a #d-;inch metal one4 ,from the start1 learn to measure accurately4 ,on a tape or measuring gauge1 locate the #a-;inch1 -inch1 and -inch marks4 ,do your shopping ,buying cotton fabric ,when you start to sew1 it is most important that you have a fine1 firm piece of cotton cloth4 ,the best fabric for your scarf1 skirt1 or apron is percale1 either plain or crease resistant4 ,percale is soft and firm1 and comes in figured and plain colors4 ,select a small all-over pattern in colors that you will enjoy wearing4 ,avoid plain colors1 plaids1 or large designs4 ,also avoid cloth which feels stiff4 ,crush several pieces of cloth in your hand4 ,you will be able to tell the difference4 ,select the one that wrinkles the least4 ,when you buy your fabric1 be sure it is preshrunk and colorfast4 ,also find out if it is crease-resistant and how to wash it4 ,is it hand washable or machine washable8 ,you will find most of this information on the end of the bolt of fabric or on attached labels4 ,study these and also ask the clerk to tell you about the fabrics4 ,illustration3 ,bolt of fabric ,,wash ,,wear ,,little or ,,no ,,ironing ,,machine ,,wash--,,drip ,,dry ,,crease ,,resistant ,cotton_/,arnell coordinates #ee ,cotton #de ,arnell ,tri-,acetate ,,width #dd_/e ,,color ,,yds4 ,good percale has the same number of threads in the warp as in the filling4 ,the warp threads are those that run the long way of the fabric4 ,the filling threads go back and forth across the warp threads4 ,the filling threads are softer than the warp threads but not as strong4 ,examine the edge of the fabric4 ,the edge is called selvage4 ,it is stronger than the rest of the cloth because it has more threads in it4 ,this may also cause it to shrink more during washing4 ,illustration3 ,selvedge ,percales should be torn1 not cut1 from the bolt4 ,this leaves a straight line or shows one thread for the entire width of the cloth4 ,before you buy any fabric1 lay the folded cloth on the counter and examine the torn end4 ,are both sides even or is one side an inch or so shorter than the other8 ,select a piece which is reasonably even4 ,do not select fabric if one side is more than -inch shorter4 ,border prints make interesting skirts4 ,study the design on the cloth and buy enough cloth so you can match the design on the side seam4 ,make sure the fabric is straight4 ,crooked fabric will give you a curved side seam4 ,illustration3 ,i ,,know ,,these ,,fabrics--,,do ,,you8 ,percale may be used for all the articles you will make in this year's project4 ,other fabrics that may be used are chambray1 broadcloth1 poplin1 and novelty fabrics4 ,plan a shopping tour with your club before buying your fabric4 ,after studying the different cotton fabrics1 have your leader and mother help you select the fabric for your scarf1 apron1 or skirt4 ,if you plan to make a double scarf1 buy yard additional fabric like your skirt and the same amount of a contrasting color4 ,you will need two washcloths if you plan to make the ,,tv slippers4 ,select medium weight washcloths either with or without border trim4 ,learn to use the sewing machine ,many of you learned to use the sewing machine in ,phase #a of ,it's ,fun to ,sew4 ,you will find this section of your bulletin to be a good review4 ,for those of you who are starting with this phase1 this section will help you become acquainted with the parts of the machine and will tell you how to use it4 ,the needle--,notice that it has an eye near the point instead of at the top like the one you use for hand sewing4 ,the presser foot--,see the two toes between which the needle passes8 ,this is the presser foot4 ,find the small metal arm which raises the presser foot up and down4 ,the metal arm is on the back of the machine4 ,the bobbin--,this carries the thread for the underside of the sewing4 ,bobbins are different shapes and sizes for different machines4 ,learn to place the bobbin in the machine and to remove it4 ,learn to wind the bobbin4 ,the balance wheel--,this is the wheel on the right-hand side of the machine4 ,when you can recognize these parts and know their use1 you are ready to learn to run the machine4 ,check these points before you start to use the machine3 #a4 ,remove the bobbin and top thread4 #b4 ,have the needle up as far as it will go4 #c4 ,raise the presser foot4 ,how to start the machine ,you are now ready to get the 8feel0 of running the sewing machine4 ,you will first practice starting the machine off slowly and evenly4 ,if you use an electric machine1 you must learn how much pressure to put on the knee or foot control4 ,remember there is a lot of power in an electric machine4 ,if you use a treadle machine1 put both feet on the treadle1 one ahead of the other4 ,with your right hand1 move the balance wheel forward or back1 whichever is right for your kind of machine4 ,take your hand off the balance wheel and treadle with your feet1 pressing first with your toes and then with your heels4 ,practice treadling until you can run it smoothly at a moderate speed4 ,illustration3 ,sewing4 ,how to stop the machine ,try stopping the machine by slowing down the treadling or releasing the pressure on the electric control4 ,with your right hand1 stop the balance wheel4 ,turn the wheel slowly until the needle is raised as high as it will go4 ,always do this when you stop the machine4 ,practice starting and stopping4 ,you will do this many times while you are sewing4 ,try stitching both forward and backward if there is a reverse lever on your machine4 ,practice sewing on paper ,now that you can run the machine1 practice sewing by first stitching on paper4 ,draw some straight and curved lines on paper as a guide to follow as you stitch4 ,here is how to do it3 ,place the end of a line under the needle4 ,lower the presser foot4 ,this holds the paper securely and helps feed it through the machine4 ,start the machine by turning the balance wheel4 ,treadle slowly or press on the foot or knee release of the electric machine4 ,guide the paper with both hands4 ,place the left hand in back of the needle and the right in front of the needle4 ,keep your hands at a safe distance from the needle when stitching4 ,when you can stitch straight and control the speed of the machine1 you are ready to learn to thread the machine and start sewing an easy-to-make article4 ,thread the machine ,you can best learn to thread the machine by having your leader show you how to thread it4 ,then practice while she watches you4 ,watch closely when she draws the bobbin thread to the top and see how she pulls both threads back of the presser foot4 ,learn about the tension4 ,the tension determines whether or not you have a good stitch4 ,until you are older1 have your leader or mother adjust the tension for you4 ,watch her while she does it4 ,check the stitch ,pull both top and bobbin threads back of the presser foot4 ,place a double thickness of cloth under the presser foot and make several inches of stitching4 ,inspect the stitch4 ,does it look the same on both sides8 ,if not1 have the tension adjusted until it does4 ,use #ab stitches to the inch for the type of sewing you will be doing4 ,have your leader show you how to adjust the length of the stitch4 ,when you have finished sewing1 raise the needle as far as it will go4 ,raise the presser foot and pull the fabric back about #d inches from the needle4 ,cut the thread with your scissors or on the cutting knife on the side of the needle-bar4 ,illustration3 ,sewing machine needle ,use a cloth gauge ,a cloth gauge placed to the right of the needle will aid you in making straight seams4 ,place a strip of colored scotch tape1 band aid1 or adhesive tape to the right of the needle if you do not have a gauge4 ,watch the edge of your cloth as it follows along the gauge rather than watching the needle when stitching4 ,this will help you make a straighter seam4 ,your posture at the machine ,posture is important4 ,if you sit 8tall10 you will be less tired and will do better work4 ,become a #d-;,h machinist ,there is a special activity planned to help you learn how to use the sewing machine4 ,it is called 8,know ,your ,sewing ,machine40 ,ask your leader and county home agent about this4 ,learning to use the machine is the most important part of this clothing project and it is a lot of fun4 ,bring your mother to club with you the day you study machines so she can enjoy it with you4 ,when you have learned to use the machine and can pass your test for a #d-;,h sewing machinist1 your leader will sign your certificate4 ,you are now ready to start to sew4 ,have you learned to3 ,start and stop the machine8 ,run the machine smoothly8 ,wind the bobbin and place it in its case or shuttle8 ,thread the machine1 top and bobbin1 and pull up the bobbin thread8 ,adjust the length of stitch8 ,stitch on straight lines1 corners1 and curves8 ,guide1 not force1 the fabric8 ,tell a good stitch8 ,learn to press cotton ,examine the iron--locate the different parts4 ,set the heat indicator of your iron for cotton4 ,this will keep the iron at the correct temperature4 ,cotton may be ironed on either the right or the wrong side4 ,if your fabric does not iron out smoothly or take a sharp crease1 dampen it4 ,here is how to do it3 ,dampen a piece of cheesecloth and squeeze it tight4 ,do not make it wet4 ,place it over the cloth you want to press and set iron on it4 ,steam will form and dampen the cloth4 ,always iron or press with the grain of the cloth4 ,follow the warp or the filling threads4 ,do not iron on the bias4 ,illustration3 ,,straight and ,,bias ,sew--have fun ,now that you have practiced using the sewing machine1 you are ready to make a scarf1 slippers1 or sewing kit4 ,make a scarf ,illustration3 ,wearing a scarf ,this scarf may be made larger than the measurements suggested but it will require more fabric4 ,using these measurements1 a square of cloth can be cut into four scarves4 ,it will be more economical to cut a scarf this way if four in your club use the same colored fabric4 ,plan to have your scarf match or look nice with your skirt4 ,for a double scarf1 have one side the same as your skirt fabric and one a plain or contrasting color4 ,a single scarf may either match your skirt or be a contrasting color4 ,double scarf ,illustration3 ,scarf ,pattern ,cut two triangles of fabric-- #a--plain #a--;contrast ,pin right sides together and sew a -inch seam around edge4 ,start sewing #f inches from center of scarf4 ,stitch around scarf and stop #c inches before reaching starting point 7see diagram74 ,the opening is for turning your scarf4 ,illustration3 ,scarf seam ,press the seams open4 ,then trim the seams until they are -inch wide4 ,trim off corners4 ,turn your scarf and press4 ,illustration3 ,hemmed scarf ,baste a slot for headband1 #ad inches long and inch wide4 ,sew across one end4 ,turn and stitch along basting threads4 ,turn and stitch across other end4 ,see diagram4 ,illustration3 ,scarf and headband ,sew 7by hand7 #b inches of opening1 leaving #a inch open to insert head band4 ,insert head band and your scarf is finished4 ,single scarf ,cut one triangle of fabric4 ,illustration3 ,scarf pattern ,press -inch hem on both #be-;inch sides of scarf4 ,press -inch hem on long edge of scarf4 ,illustration3 ,hemmed scarf ,trim off end of hem on dotted lines4 ,turn ends under even with side hems4 ,press4 ,illustration3 ,folds in cloth ,miter corner on point of scarf according to directions under sewing kit4 ,illustration3 ,mitered corners ,refold the scarf on folds for hem4 ,you now have a mitered corner4 ,illustration3 ,stitched scarf ,stitch around your scarf4 ,start stitching #f inches from center on #ce-;inch side4 ,stitch all around scarf4 ,stop #a inch from where you started to stitch4 ,turn and stitch to folded edge of hem4 ,stitch across hem #g inches from center of scarf to make other end of slot to hold head band4 ,finish two top corners by hand4 ,trim off peak 7x7 to edge of hem4 ,insert head band and your scarf is finished4 ,make a sewing kit ,illustration3 ,sewing kit pattern ,this kit can be used to roll your sewing in and to cover your work table to protect your fabric while you are sewing4 ,illustration3 ,hems ,use a #cf-;inch square of muslin4 ,make a -inch hem on all sides4 ,to make the hem1 turn the edge of the fabric over inch and press4 ,turn this over once again and press4 ,pin or baste around the hem4 ,pressing eliminates many hours of basting4 ,miter the corners4 ,open the corners and fold along diagonal dotted line as shown in the diagram4 ,refold the hem and press4 ,start to stitch in the center of one side and continue to stitch all around the square4 ,stitch as near the edge of the hem as possible4 ,remove your sewing kit from the machine when you finish stitching and tie ends of the threads4 ,pull out the basting and press your sewing kit4 ,trim off the extra fabric in each corner4 ,place an #h x #ab-;inch pocket in the center of this square to hold your pattern and sewing equipment4 ,see 8,pockets10 page #ab4 ,make ,,tv or lounging slippers ,illustration3 ,slippers ,materials needed3 #b washcloths thread to match #b #aj-;inch pieces of -inch elastic wool yarn for pompons or flat buttons #a4 ,fold each cloth in half4 ,if there is a design on two sides1 fold the cloth so the design is at the top4 ,stitch #d inches from folded edge for top4 ,make a -inch seam4 ,illustration3 ,folded sewing kit ,stitch from fold to edge of cloth for heel on other end of washcloth4 ,stand on a ruler and measure length of your foot4 ,add #a inches to this length to get the size needed for your slipper4 ,example3 foot--#i inches1 plus #a inches equal #aj inches4 ,your seam will be at this point4 ,most washcloths are #ab inches square4 ,you would have a heel seam #a inches wide4 #b4 ,turn seams to inside4 ,open the heel seam4 #c4 ,fold the edges over #b inches to the outside of the slipper4 ,pin or paste in place4 ,stitch inch from folded edge to make a casing for the elastic4 ,tie or back tack ends of thread4 ,illustration3 ,casing for elastic #d4 ,thread elastic through casing4 ,use medium-size safety pin4 ,pin to one end of elastic and thread elastic through casing4 ,start at opening of front toe4 ,pull both ends so they extend out from slipper4 ,overlap ends inch and sew them together4 ,illustration3 ,threading elastic ,pull on heel and toe seam and the slippers will cover the elastic4 ,trim your slippers with pompons or buttons4 ,illustration3 ,making pompons #e4 ,to make the pompons1 use a four-tined table fork4 ,cut a piece of yarn about #f inches long and place through the center tine of the fork4 ,bring both ends down and hold next to the handle4 ,now wrap the yarn around the tines1 either weave it in and out of the tines or wrap smoothly around4 ,when the tines are completely covered1 bring the two ends which you are holding with the handle up around the other yarn and tie a knot1 at the same time slipping the yarn from the fork4 ,tie securely4 ,clip through looped ends and fluff into a ball4 ,sew pompons to center front of slipper to cover opening for elastic4 ,you may use buttons to trim your slippers instead of the pompons4 ,select flat buttons that can be washed4 ,use one average or large button or three small ones on each toe4 7,see 8,how to sew on a button10 page #b47 ,select yarn or buttons that will look nice on your slippers4 ,they may be the same color as the slippers or another color that will look good on them4 ,try several colors4 ,medium colored buttons rather than black or other dark colors look best on pale colored slippers4 ,make your apron or skirt ,illustration3 ,aprons and skirt ,aprons and skirts are fun and easy to make4 ,this will probably be the first apron or skirt you have ever made all by yourself4 ,your leader will show you how to make it1 step by step4 ,follow her instructions and you will learn to sew in no time at all4 ,learn to do each step right the first time4 ,choose one that you would like to make #a4 ,peasant-type skirt #b4 ,peasant apron with straight band #c4 ,peasant apron with elastic top ,plan to have one or two pockets on your apron or skirt4 ,peasant apron with band ,you will need to buy3 #cj inches of #ci-;inch percale or other firm cotton fabric--if you are taller you will need more material to make your apron longer4 #a spool of matching thread ,illustration3 ,apron pattern ,,selvage ,,apron #bj #cb #e #cb ,,sashes #e #cb ,,selvage #f #ah ,,band ,,pockets #e #f #e #f ,measure and cut your apron ,mark the apron according to the diagram4 ,band #f x #ah inches ,apron skirt #bj x #cb inches ,two sashes #cb x #e inches ,one or two pockets #f x #e inches ,measure and mark off these pieces with chalk or pins before cutting4 ,cut with long1 even strokes4 ,make your sashes ,fold the right sides of each sash together4 ,place pins across the stitching lines as shown in the diagram4 ,make a -inch seam along the side and end of the sash4 ,backstitch for two or three stitches to make the end of your thread secure4 ,trim off the corner4 ,check the stitch on your machine4 ,be sure it looks the same on both sides of the fabric4 ,illustration3 ,stitched sash ,press the seam open and turn the sash4 ,use the end of a table knife or ruler for turning4 ,press the sash flat1 keeping the seam at the edge4 ,make the corners square4 ,if you prefer to hem the sash1 make a -inch hem1 miter the corners4 ,see instructions on scarf1 pages #g and #h4 ,press and stitch hems ,side hems #a4 ,make a -inch hem on each side of the apron4 ,to make a hem1 press a -inch fold on the side edges of your apron 7#bj-;inch sides74 ,press with your fingers1 then with the iron4 ,illustration3 ,first turn #b4 ,fold edge over again inch and press4 ,stitch along edge of hem4 ,this completes the hem4 ,selvage edge--,if the selvage is used1 clip only the very edge of it every #b or #c inches4 ,this prevents puckering when it is laundered4 ,fold the edge over inch1 press and stitch4 ,a double hem is not needed4 ,bottom hem ,make a #c-;inch hem on the bottom of your apron4 ,measure and turn -inch fold at bottom of apron4 ,press4 ,from this edge measure #c inches1 fold1 and press4 ,pin and stitch the hems4 ,use matching thread4 ,stitch as near as you can to the edge of the hem4 ,backstitch on both ends of hem4 ,gather the top edge ,divide the top edge of your skirt into four equal parts4 ,set your cloth guide for a -inch seam4 ,lengthen your stitch to make the largest stitch possible4 ,make three rows of stitching along the top of the apron1 placing rows inch apart4 ,place the first row inch from the edge4 ,be sure to follow the guide4 ,illustration3 ,gathered top edge ,make your apron band ,your apron band is made the same way as a skirt band1 only the proportions are different4 ,turn to page #ad for illustrations4 #a4 ,press a -inch fold along one side of your #ah-;inch band4 ,divide the band1 lengthwise into three equal parts4 ,this gives three #b-;inch sections4 ,make the section with the -inch fold slightly shorter than the other two sections4 ,place a damp press cloth over the folded band and press sharp creases along the folds4 #b4 ,the section with the -inch fold is the front of your band4 ,the double part is the back4 ,stitch criss-cross through the back part of the band4 ,you can stitch straighter if you make a guide or pattern4 ,cut a strip of waxed paper the length and width of your band1 #ah x #b inches4 ,fold in four equal sections4 ,then fold it diagonally4 ,then diagonally again4 ,open the paper and pin it to the band and follow the creases in the paper4 ,this will give practice on starting and stopping the machine and on turning corners4 ,tear the paper away after the stitching is completed4 ,illustration3 ,apron band #c4 ,pin and sew the end of the sashes to the end of the band4 ,fold the band right sides together1 and stitch across ends4 ,do not sew the -inch fold at bottom of band into the seam4 ,illustration3 ,apron band ,stitch both sides4 ,turn and press along the original crease4 ,illustration3 ,band on apron ,sew apron to band ,be sure the edges of the band and apron are marked in four equal parts4 ,place the right side of the apron to the right side of the band4 ,match the quarter marks and pin4 ,place the hemmed ends of the apron at the seam ends of the band4 ,ease in the fullness in the apron until it fits the band4 ,pull all bobbin threads from each end at the same time4 ,pull gently so you do not break the threads4 ,spread the gathers so they are even and pin4 ,baste along the second row of gathering and the crease in the band4 ,machine stitch along the bastings4 ,press4 ,pin so back edge of band is inch longer than edge of front of band4 ,top stitch along front edge of band4 ,this finishes your band4 ,be sure to press the band before you stitch4 ,it will make stitching easier4 ,add your pockets ,pockets are for both use and decoration4 ,make patch pockets that are securely stitched and have no raw edges at the top4 ,press the side and bottom hems of the pocket first4 ,then fold the top hem over and stitch in place4 ,study the most convenient location for your pocket4 ,baste it in place4 ,check to see that it is even4 ,reinforce the top of the pocket with double stitching1 as shown in the drawing4 ,stitching is inch apart4 ,illustration3 ,pockets ,remove gathering stitches and press your apron4 ,illustration3 ,finished apron ,peasant apron with elastic top ,you will need to buy #cj inches of cotton fabric #a spool of matching thread #ad inches of -inch elastic ,measure and cut your apron ,cut your apron #bj x #ca inches4 ,this will fit a girl of size #aj to #ab4 ,make this longer than #bj inches if you are tall4 ,cut two sashes #bf x #e inches4 ,cut two pockets #e x #e inches4 ,make sashes and hems the same as for peasant apron with band1 page #aj4 ,illustration3 ,apron pattern #ca in4 #bj;in4 ,,apron #e;in4 #bf in4 ,pocket #e;in4 #e;in4 ,,sashes ,pocket #e;in4 ,make the side hems inch wide and the top and bottom hems #b inches wide4 ,gather the top #a4 ,make a heading or hem at the top of your apron4 ,from the top edge of the apron1 measure down inch and mark with pins or chalk4 ,start stitching at upper corner and slope to -inch line4 ,stitch across the apron and slope up to the corner4 ,illustration3 ,hemmed apron #b4 ,stitch one sash to end of -inch elastic4 ,thread elastic through heading4 ,then stitch other sash to end of elastic4 ,pull ends of sashes into heading of apron4 ,illustration3 ,elastic hem #c4 ,finish ends of bottom hem with a slip or blind stitch4 ,the slip stitch is used on a hem with a folded edge4 ,fasten the knotted thread in the fold of the hem4 ,slip the needle through the fold for about inch4 ,pick up one thread in the skirt or1 if the fabric permits1 split a thread with the needle4 ,this thread should lie at right angles to the hem edge4 ,slip the needle back into the fold of the fabric1 and continue hemming4 ,stitches are almost as invisible on the wrong side as the right side of the skirt4 ,illustration3 ,,slip ,,stitch ,gathered skirt ,select fabric that is colorful and gay for your skirt4 ,closely woven cloth will be easy to sew and will hold a sharp crease4 ,you will need from #c to #c yards of fabric for your skirt4 ,the more fabric you try to gather in your skirt the harder it will be to make4 ,for the girl of average height cut your skirt as follows3 ,how to cut your skirt ,cut or tear a #f-;inch strip from one side of your skirt fabric4 ,measure in from the selvage edge4 ,use this for the skirt band and pockets4 ,there will be some left over4 ,tear off the selvage edge from the large piece4 ,illustration3 ,skirt pattern #f ,,selvage ,,band ,,pocket ,,pocket ,,cut ,,or ,,tear ,,selvage ,you may have to cut the band from the end of your fabric instead of the side if you are tall and need the extra length4 ,the above method of cutting gives you one seam on the placket side4 ,sometimes the design in the fabric will be more attractive if the skirt is cut in several lengths4 ,when this is necessary1 you will have three or four seams in your skirt4 ,this may make a difference in the amount of fabric you will need1 so decide how you will cut your skirt before buying your fabric4 ,make your skirt ,pin the short edges together to make the side seam4 ,make the seam #a inches wide4 ,it is to be used for the placket4 ,when finished1 the placket will be on the left side4 ,stitch the side seam4 ,stitch the seam from the bottom up4 ,at a point #e inches from the top1 turn and stitch half way across the seam4 ,turn both edges of the seam toward the front section and press4 ,illustration3 ,stitched seam ,trim the seams4 ,start at the bottom of the wide seam and trim it to inch wide up to the placket4 ,do not trim above this point4 ,illustration3 ,trimmed seam ,finish the placket #a4 ,baste and stitch a -inch hem on the back edge of the placket4 ,illustration3 ,hem on placket #b4 ,fold the front edge of the placket even with seam line4 ,press4 ,now fold again to make a complete hem4 ,baste4 ,illustration3 ,pinned placket ,pin placket together4 ,stitch from the top to the bottom of the placket1 turn and stitch across the end of first stitching4 ,pull threads through and tie ends4 ,this is a strong1 easy-to-make placket4 ,illustration3 ,stitched placket ,hem the skirt ,skirts look best with hand-stitched hems4 ,make the hem before placing the band on the skirt4 ,unless you have poor posture1 it will hang even4 ,decide how long you would like your finished skirt to be4 ,be careful not to make it too short4 ,measure from the top edge to the length you would like the skirt to be and press in the hem4 ,turn the top edge of the hem under inch4 ,your skirt will be prettier if you make a wide hem--#c inches or wider4 ,when the hem has been carefully pressed1 stitch inch from the fold of the top edge of the hem1 to keep the fold in place4 ,pin hem in place4 ,ask your leader to show you a hand hemming stitch4 ,place gathering threads at top of skirt ,make a long stitch on your machine4 ,use size #ej top thread and heavy duty for bobbin thread4 ,using the guide on your machine1 stitch around the top of your skirt inch from the edge4 ,make two more rows inch apart4 ,you are now ready to make your skirt band4 ,illustration3 ,gathering treads ,make the skirt band #a4 ,measure your waist4 ,add #b inches4 ,this will give you the length needed for your skirt band4 ,cut your band #f inches wide4 #b4 ,press a -inch fold along one side of your band4 ,from the folded edge divide the rest into three sections4 ,this gives three #b-;inch sections4 ,make the section with the -inch fold slightly shorter than the other two sections4 ,press4 #c4 ,the section with the -inch fold is the front of your band4 ,stitch criss-cross through the back part of the band4 ,you can stitch straighter if you make a guide or pattern4 ,cut a strip of waxed paper the length and width of your band1 #bd x #b inches4 ,illustration3 ,cross-stitched band ,fold it in six equal sections4 ,then fold it diagonally4 ,then diagonally again4 ,open the paper and pin it to the band and follow the creases in the paper4 ,this will give practice on starting and stopping the machine and on turning corners4 ,tear the paper away after the stitching is completed4 ,illustration3 ,folded paper for band #d4 ,stitch a -inch seam at the ends of the band4 ,turn and press4 ,do not sew the -inch fold at the bottom of band into the seam4 ,gather in fullness ,divide both your skirt and the skirt band into eight equal parts to help you make the gathers even in your skirt4 ,do not include the placket or #a-;inch overlap at the end of the band4 ,mark with colored threads4 ,mark the skirt band so the extension or extra length will be on the back of the placket4 ,the front of band will be even with the front edge of the placket4 ,pin and stitch band to skirt4 ,pin the pieces together1 right side of skirt to right side of band4 ,match dividing marks that you have made4 ,gently pull on the gathering threads at the side seams1 the center front1 and the center back4 ,pull the threads until they are the same length as the band4 ,work with the gathers until they are even4 ,baste and stitch along -inch fold on the skirt band4 ,top stitch the band ,fold the double section of your band toward the back and baste the edge of the band to the skirt4 ,baste it so the folded edge hangs just below the stitching you just made on the front side of the band4 ,machine stitch from the front side of the band4 ,place the stitching as near the edge of the band as you can4 ,press before you stitch4 ,it will flatten the seam and make stitching easier4 ,press your skirt ,press your skirt4 ,use a dampened cheese-cloth and an iron set for ironing cotton1 or use a steam iron4 ,a skirt must be well pressed and fresh looking to be pretty4 ,illustration3 ,pressed skirt ,fastenings for the skirt ,illustration3 ,fastenings ,study the drawing above4 ,it shows the placing for fasteners on your skirt4 ,sewing them in this position will keep the placket from gaping4 ,sew a snap fastener in the center of the placket if it is needed to keep it closed4 ,do not try to set in a zipper4 ,use hooks and eyes or buttons for fastening this band4 ,buttons and buttonholes--,when buttons and buttonholes are used1 make the buttonhole lengthwise of the band4 ,place it far enough from the end of the band so there will be at least inch beyond the button when it is sewed in place4 ,measure half the distance across your button and add inch for this measurement4 ,learn to use the machine attachment for making buttonholes4 ,they are stronger and easier for you to make than hand-made buttonholes4 ,have your leader1 mother1 or a neighbor set it up for you and show you how to use it4 ,after you have made a few sample buttonholes1 make some in your apron or on your skirt4 ,if you have a machine with a zig-zag stitch1 learn to make buttonholes on it4 ,pin the band together and mark place for buttons4 ,see page #b for instructions for sewing on buttons4 ,sew fasteners to skirt band ,snaps--,examine the snap fasteners4 ,one part has a ball on top4 ,this is placed on the front part or top of your placket4 ,the other part has a hole or socket and is placed on the back or under part of the placket4 ,place them exactly opposite each other on your placket4 ,sew the top snap on first4 ,mark the placing of the bottom part of the snaps by rubbing chalk on the ball and then pinning placket together4 ,press ball against fabric4 ,the chalk will rub off and mark the exact spot to sew the under part of the snap4 ,illustration3 ,snap fasteners ,sew snap fasteners on with several over-and-over stitches4 ,be sure to hide your knot under the snap4 ,sew securely through all four holes4 ,when you cross from one hole to the other1 take a stitch in the cloth and bring your needle up from the under side to the next hole4 ,hooks and eyes--,each package of hooks and eyes1 has two types of eyes1 a round and a straight4 ,use the round eye for your skirt4 ,sew the hook on the inside edge of the top part of your band4 7,you will need two47 ,sew these with several over-and-over stitches4 ,illustration3 ,hooks and eyes ,sew several stitches through the hook end4 ,pin the placket in place and place the round eye directly under the hook4 ,sew with several over-and-over stitches4 ,press all the things you have made4 ,pressing will improve their appearance4 ,make sure they are clean4 ,have each member of your club judge what you have made and then make the corrections they suggest4 ,how does your apron or skirt look to you8 ,once again1 score your own and other club members' work4 ,these are the points to use in judging3 ,your score #a4 ,fabric or trimming used #be ,is it suitable for aprons and skirts8 ,will it launder8 ,will it wear well8 #b4 ,workmanship #ce ,are seams1 hems1 finish good choices8 ,are they well made8 #c4 ,design and color #bj ,are design and color attractive8 ,are they right for you8 #d4 ,condition of article #aj ,is it clean8 ,is it well-pressed8 #e4 ,value of garment #aj ,is there good value for the time and money spent8 ,total #ajj ,complete your record book ,your record book is important4 ,examine it carefully4 ,have you completed your clothing record8 ,have you recorded your activities as well as your project summary on your permanent record8 ,have you written your #d-;,h story for the year8 ,in your story tell how you feel about the things you have made and the experiences you have had4 ,each year your record book will add another chapter to your #d-;,h ,club story4 ,you will have fun looking back at each chapter as the years go by4 ,is this chapter as complete as you would like it to be8 ,you may want to keep a scrapbook of pictures and newspaper stories to go along with your record book4 ,show others what you have learned ,exhibits ,it is fun to let others see what you have done4 ,your club may want to plan a display for your families4 ,you may want to exhibit your work at a fair4 ,if you do1 your exhibit will be the main article you made4 ,be sure your article is clean and pressed and clearly labeled so it can be returned to you4 ,give a demonstration ,a demonstration means 8to show someone else how to do something40 ,select one small subject for your demonstration4 ,avoid one that has too many parts or details4 ,here are some suggestions3 ,how to sew on a button ,how to make a pocket ,how to shine your shoes ,how to thread a needle ,how to thread a sewing machine ,how to make a scarf ,how to make washcloth slippers ,how to make a mitered corner ,how to make a hem ,how to make gathers ,how to make a sash for an apron ,how to make a skirt band ,how to make a hemmed placket ,because everything you use for sewing is small1 you will need to make your samples large4 ,use contrasting thread1 large stitches1 and make large buttons so the audience can see what you are doing4 ,are you ready for the next project8 #a4 ,have you kept your shoes clean and shining8 #b4 ,have you studied and improved your health habits8 #c4 ,have you sewed buttons on family clothing8 #d4 ,have you kept your record book up to date8 #e4 ,have you made two or more articles8 ,keep this bulletin4 ,you will need it for your next project4 ,when you have completed all the #d-;,h clothing projects1 you will have a complete sewing book4 ,,oregon ,,state ,,university ,illustration3 ,,oregon ,,state ,,university1 ,,cooperative ,,extension ,,service ,,serves ,,every ,,family ,county1 ,state1 and ,federal governments cooperate with ,oregon ,state ,university to make the latest information available to everyone4 --,homemaking and ,consumer ,information --#d-;,h ,club and ,other ,youth ,education --,community ,development --,agricultural ,production and ,marketing --,development1 ,use1 and ,conservation of ,natural ,resources --,marketing and ,use of ,agricultural and ,forest ,products #d-;,h ,club ,work is the ,youth ,education ,program of the ,cooperative ,extension ,service2 #e1ejj ,volunteer ,adult ,leaders and #a1ejj ,junior ,leaders guide #ce1jjj #d-;,h members in #d1bjj clubs in every county and city in ,oregon4 ,cooperative ,extension work in ,agriculture and ,home ,economics1 ,f4 ,e4 ,price1 director4 ,oregon ,state ,university and the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture cooperating4 ,printed and distributed in furtherance of ,acts of ,congress of ,may #h and ,june #cj1 #aiad4 #f,m--,reprinted ,may #aifd4 ,transcriber's ,notes --,silently corrected a few typos4 --,retained publication information from the printed edition3 this e,book is public-domain in the country of publication4 --,in the text versions only1 text in italics is delimited by underscores4