,,common-,,sense ,,papers ,,on ,,cookery4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,common-,,sense ,,papers ,,on ,,cookery4 ,,by ,a4 ,g4 ,,payne4 ,,cassell ,,petter ,,galpin3 ,london1 ,paris ,new ,york4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,preface4 ------- ,the present work has no pretensions to be a complete book on ,cooking1 but is simply a series of papers 7which originally appeared in ,,cassell',s ,,magazine7 in which the endeavour has been1 to impart a certain amount of useful knowledge of the ,art of ,cooking1 by giving recipes at greater length than would be possible in any ordinary ,cookery ,book4 ,ordinary ,cookery ,books1 though of the greatest utility1 are1 like dictionaries1 seldom if ever read through4 ,in the present work1 which contains all the important elements and first principles of ,cookery necessary to be learnt1 in order to render ordinary works on the subject intelligible1 the attempt has been made to so mingle recipes with anecdote1 that the perusal of the book may be a means of entertainment as well as of useful information4 ,the work is intended more for the drawing-room than for the kitchen1 for the ,author believes that1 among the great mass of the middle classes in this country--the class that is suffering most from the incapacity of domestic servants--the remedy lies with themselves4 ,a helpless mistress too often makes helpless servants4 ,it is in the hope of curing some of this wide-spread helplessness amongst ladies that the following papers have been written4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,contents4 ------- ,,page ,i4 --,uses and ,abuses of a ,frying-,pan #i ,,ii4 --,kitchen ,economy #bb ,,iii4 --,little ,extravagancies of the ,table #cb ,,iv4 --,cold ,leg of ,mutton #dc ,v4 --,how to make ,dishes look nice #ef ,,vi4 --,breakfast ,dishes #fh ,,vii4 --,how to give a nice little ,dinner #gi ,,viii4 --,how to give a nice little ,supper #ic ,,ix4 --,spring ,dishes #ajd ,x4 --,savoury ,summer ,dishes #aad ,,xi4 --,salads1 and how to make them #abg ,,xii4 --,picnic ,dainties #ach ,,xiii4 --,cooling ,drinks #adi ,,xiv4 --,game and ,gravy 7including ,how to #afj ,cook ,hare7 ,,xv4 --,food for ,cold ,weather #ahb ,,xvi4 --,christmas ,dinners 7including #aia ,christmas ,cheer7 ,,xvii4 --,turtle ,soup #bji ,,xviii4 --,fish ,dinners #bba ,,xix4 --,wedding ,breakfasts #bcc ,,xx4 --,food for ,invalids #bda ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,common-,,sense ,,papers ,,on ,,cookery4 ------- ,i4--,,the ,,uses ,,and ,,abuses ,,of ,a ,,frying-,,pan4 8,we had such an awful time of it with ,mary ,ann60 ,probably1 never have the domestic trials and difficulties of young housekeepers been summed up in fewer or more expressive words4 ,however1 the more we look into the world1 the more we find it to be the case that we make our ,mary ,anns1 and not our ,mary ,anns us4 ,it is a good old saying that the master makes the man2 equally true is it that the mistress makes the maid4 ,let each of our readers pause for an instant1 and look round mentally among his relations and friends with whom he is in the habit of dining4 ,each one1 probably1 has had many changes of servants1 yet there are some houses where the dinner is invariably good1 others where it is equally invariably bad4 ,who has not1 on entering a house where he expects to dine1 been greeted at the door with a whiff of the smell of the cooking1 from which whiff he could pretty well determine in his own mind the style of dinner he may expect8 ,no cooking is so good as the ,french1 none so bad as a certain style of ,english4 ,compare the smell of a good ,french restaurant1 or outside the kitchen of a first-class hotel1 like the 8,pavilion0 at ,folkestone1 an hour before the table d'hte1 with the smell of an ordinary cook-shop1 with its steam-pipes keeping warm large flabby joints and greasy ,yorkshire pudding1 the whole being impregnated with that peculiar smell of greens in which one can almost fancy he detects the flavour of caterpillars4 ,i think it may be laid down as a rule that if1 on entering a house1 you smell greens1 you may make up your mind for a bad dinner4 ,on the other hand1 a gamey smell1 with perhaps just a dash of garlic in it1 is favourable1 especially if mingled with the smell of rich pastry4 ,it would1 however1 require many volumes to enter into a minute description of a good and a bad dinner4 ,we would rather be practical1 and1 if possible1 useful4 ,the natural resource of young housekeepers is the cookery-book4 ,after the pathetic statement with which our article commences1 ,david ,copperfield proceeds as follows3-- 8,in search of the principle on which joints ought to be roasted--to be roasted enough and not too much--,i myself referred to the cookery-book1 and found it there established as the allowance of a quarter of an hour to every pound1 and say a quarter over4 ,but the principle always failed us by some curious fatality1 and we never could hit any medium between redness and cinders40 ,here is the old story1 and one that1 probably1 happens every day1 and will happen--viz41 reference to a cookery-book2 the directions followed2 the result--failure4 ,who is most to blame--the cook1 or the book8 ,that the book is often in fault there can be no doubt4 ,so long as we meet with such absurdities as 8and flavour to taste10 or 8add seasoning10 c41 we shall continue to maintain that recipes that contain these directions might just as well have never been written4 ,but in the present article we wish to confine ourselves to the 8frying-pan10 one of the most useful1 and1 at the same time1 abused articles of kitchen use4 ,we will suppose that a certain dish consists of something fried4 ,perhaps one or two are expected to dinner who are known or supposed to be rather particular4 ,the mistress has consulted the cookery-book1 which gravely recommends as follows3--8,fry of a nice golden-colour1 and serve hot40 ,how to do it1 however1 we are not informed4 ,suppose the dish to be a fried sole or a sweetbread4 ,we all know the real thing--a sweetbread at the ,caf ,bignon--soft and white inside1 and a perfect golden-brown out1 without even a shade of colour varying in the whole dish4 ,on the other hand1 a sweetbread la ,mary ,ann1 covered with bread-crumbs1 some a whitey-brown1 some brown1 and some black1 but still containing patches with no bread-crumbs at all1 looking like a cat's back where the cook had accidentally spilt some boiling water4 ,or1 perhaps1 a still greater blunder has been made4 ,on this particular occasion ,mary ,ann1 who means well1 endeavours to do her utmost to make things look nice1 and in trying to obtain this nice golden-colour1 fries the sole till it is so dried up that it becomes scarcely eatable4 ,who has not occasionally in small families noticed the slight passing shadow of annoyance on the face of the hostess1 as she becomes aware of some such little contretemps8--in which1 perhaps1 a very close observer of human nature might detect the thought3 8,it will never warm up for breakfast40 ,now1 is it possible to write clear directions1 so that any one with an average amount of common sense can1 by following them1 fry fish1 sweetbreads1 c41 which will combine colour with quality8 ,we believe it is possible2 at any rate1 it is worth the attempt4 ,all fish that has to be fried with egg and bread-crumbs must be treated alike in this respect4 ,the fish must first be thoroughly dried4 ,next1 it must be floured4 ,this is done in order to ensure its being dry1 just as a baby's neck is powdered for a similar purpose after being dried with a towel4 ,next1 the egg must be thoroughly beaten up before it is used2 otherwise1 the white of the egg especially is apt to slip off1 leaving those bald patches we have mentioned4 ,again1 the bread-crumbs must be dry and fine4 ,it is no use to attempt to use bread-crumbs made from new bread1 which will be necessarily coarse4 ,now1 we will suppose these conditions complied with--say a sole has been carefully dried and floured1 has been carefully egged over1 and then covered with some very fine bread-crumbs4 ,most cooks will say3 8,well1 then fry it in plenty of hot fat1 allow it to drain on a napkin1 and that's all40 ,wait a minute4 ,if you have a frying-pan two feet in diameter1 filled with boiling fat three inches deep1 this would do very well4 ,a few minutes would suffice to cook the sole a nice colour1 8all over alike40 ,but have you this8 ,probably1 to start with1 the fish is a trifle longer than the frying-pan4 ,the fat is a quarter of an inch deep1 and won't cover the fish4 ,how1 under these very common circumstances1 will you get your fish to look nice8 ,go to the baker's at once1 and order in as follows 7it does not cost anything7--a bag of light-brown bread-raspings1 of about the colour you would use for a ham4 ,always have some by you--they keep almost for ever1 and1 as ,i have said1 the baker gives them away4 ,take some of these1 and make them fine--a rolling-pin and a little patience are sufficient for the purpose4 ,take these fine raspings and sprinkle the sole--we left it egged and bread-crumbed well on both sides--lo1 and behold6 the sole1 even before it is put in the frying-pan1 is all that is desirable in the way of colour4 ,the weight is off your mind2 all you now have to do is to cook it so that it is done through without being dried up4 ,now for this purpose you must have a certain depth of lard or dripping1 or it cannot be done4 ,properly speaking1 there ought to be enough fat to cover the fish4 ,however1 it is no use writing for things as they ought to be2 it is more practical to write for things as they are4 ,you must have enough fat at least to dip the sole in4 ,of course it is impossible to draw any exact line between a single drop of fat and a gallon4 ,what we mean is1 it is no use to try and fry fish in a frying-pan that has had a little piece of butter put in it1 just sufficient to prevent the fish from sticking4 ,a properly fried fish is one which has been boiled in fat4 ,if1 therefore1 you have not sufficient to cover the sole1 it will be necessary to cook one side first1 and then the other4 ,with regard to the time it takes1 this of course1 altogether depends on the thickness of the fish4 ,if you have enough fat to cover the fish1 the very largest sole would not take more than ten minutes4 ,the mistake generally made in frying fish is to over-cook it4 ,a properly fried sole must appear moist inside on lifting the meat from the bone4 ,still1 the meat must not stick to the bone1 or look red4 ,however1 with regard to time1 experience alone will teach1 but recollect an under-cooked fish can always be warmed up1 and an over-cooked one--never4 ,besides1 a beginner can lift the fish off the fire after a few minutes1 take a knife1 and look at the meat nearest the bone in the thickest part4 ,if it is white1 and not transparent1 it is done enough1 and a pinch of raspings hides the place4 ,with a cook1 however1 of almost any experience1 this is unnecessary4 ,another exceedingly important point is1 the fat must be boiling4 ,this can generally be found out by dropping a single drop of cold water into it1 and if it makes a great hiss1 the fat boils4 ,on dipping the fish into the fat1 a noise ought to ensue somewhat similar to that made by plunging a red-hot poker into a pail of water4 ,when the fish is done1 lift it on to a hot cloth1 in order to let the fat drain off it1 keeping it of course in front of the fire1 and afterwards lift the fish carefully1 and without breaking it1 on to a clean napkin folded in a dish1 or over a strainer made for the purpose4 ,now some of these directions may seem unnecessary1 on account of their being so very obvious4 ,but then it must be borne in mind that there are ,mary ,anns whose stupidity is absolutely unfathomable4 ,i recollect1 many years ago1 being in lodgings at the sea-side--it was at ,worthing--where ,i met two specimens in the shape of mistress and servant that would1 ,i think1 match any pair ever likely to come together again4 ,the mistress1 who was also cook1 seemed to require a considerable amount of stimulant1 and under its influence the following scraps of conversation could be heard at intervals throughout the day3-- 8,please1 mum1 where's the rolling-pin80 8,i'll rolling-pin yer60 ,on asking whether there were any eggs1 the unfortunate girl said-- 8,i think there's some in the cupboard10 which called forth-- 8,now1 ,mary ,ann1 what do you mean by thinking8 never let me hear you think again40 ,the climax in the way of cooking was a fruit pie1 as the handmaiden informed us-- 8,please1 sir1 missus is very sorry1 but she forgot the butter40 ,the pastry1 as may be imagined1 was not what may be called light2 however1 the crust came off as a lid1 and we amused ourselves by spinning it like a teetotum4 ,of course such cases are exceptional1 but ,i have known a grouse stuffed with sage and onion4 ,on another occasion a couple were sent to a farmer's wife to be got ready for lunch4 ,this was adjoining the moor where they were shot4 ,the party to their astonishment found them boiled4 ,while the fish is draining is a good opportunity to fry a little parsley to put round it4 ,all that is required is fresh1 clean parsley--dry4 ,a minute is sufficient to leave it in the fat1 if the fat boils4 ,take out the parsley with a slice1 and let it dry on the cloth by the side of the fish4 ,it will soon become crisp4 ,a large wire slice will be found better than an ordinary one4 ,if the fish has been large1 and the frying-pan rather small1 it is quite possible that in turning the fish a little of the bread-crumbs may get knocked off1 though with care this ought not to be the case4 ,when1 however1 it is1 you can always mend the patch with a pinch of raspings4 ,now1 the greatest difficulty in following these directions will probably be found to be 8the quantity of fat40 ,it is always a sore point with the cooks4 ,they look upon fat as one of their perquisites1 and too often the mistress will find that she has to be constantly ordering in a skin of lard1 or has to order dripping1 in order to fry fish4 ,recollect1 however1 that the same fat will do to fry fish over and over again--though it should be kept entirely for fish--and that it will often keep for months4 ,cooks are too fond1 from interested motives1 of making it out bad4 ,it will be found in small families an excellent rule to forbid fat and grease being sold at all4 ,were ladies to insist on this1 which they could always do with young servants1 much mischief would be avoided4 ,selling dripping and candle-grease is often the thin end of the wedge to downright theft4 ,the class of people who buy are too often little better than receivers of stolen property1 and sometimes lead young servants into small acts of dishonesty1 in order to get them in their power1 the consequence of which is that small acts are followed by great4 ,in frying sweetbreads it should be borne in mind that the sweetbreads should be soaked some hours in water first1 and then boiled for about five or ten minutes1 according to their size1 and placed in cold water to get cold4 ,when cold they should be carefully dried1 and egged and bread-crumbed like the fish1 and then covered over with the bread-raspings1 to ensure their being of a good and equal colour4 ,should the fat not be sufficient to cover them1 they must be turned occasionally in the frying-pan4 ,the fat1 as before1 must boil before they are put in4 ,tomato or rich brown sauce can be poured round them1 or served separately1 but should not be poured over them1 as they should possess a dry golden-brown colour4 ,we have now described some of the uses of the frying-pan1 and have given an instance of both a thick and thin substance for frying2 but what are its abuses8 ,cooks are very apt to use the frying-pan for what they ought not4 ,too often they will use it instead of the gridiron to cook a chop or a steak1 and if there is one thing in the world utterly spoilt in the cooking1 it is a good rump steak cooked in a frying-pan4 ,yet it will often be found1 even in decent houses1 that chops and steaks1 especially the former1 are cooked in this manner4 ,a dish of chops appears1 perhaps at lunch1 the dish swimming in gravy1 in which can clearly be tasted the ketchup that has been added4 ,after a few minutes the gravy will be seen to be studded with blotches of grease about the size of wafers4 ,the chops taste greasy and sodden1 and the roof of the mouth becomes soon coated with hard mutton-fat4 ,how different to a chop properly cooked on a gridiron6 ,black outside1 red in1 and brought up on a hot plate1 on to which about a tea-spoonful of clear red gravy may have run4 ,the first mouthful you take ought to burn your mouth4 ,such is a mutton chop as it ought to be2 and there are often times when an invalid or a person of delicate appetite feels as if there is nothing else he can eat4 ,it1 however1 requires a tolerably thick gridiron1 a clear fire1 and common sense4 ,a singular instance of audacity in the way of cooking a steak occurred at a country inn where we were once unfortunate enough to try and dine4 ,the waiter was a model of a dirty man in the right place4 ,everything was in unison--table-cloth1 forks1 wine-glasses1 and thumb-nails to match4 ,he might have been the original for that admirable little sketch in ,punch1 where the elderly gentleman exclaims1 8,why1 confound you6 you are wiping my plate with your pocket-handkerchief60--the reply being1 8,oh1 it's of no consequence1 sir2 it's only a dirty one60 ,we had a steak1 the cooking of which completely baffled us4 ,what possible method was adopted to make it what it was1 we could not conceive4 ,we made friends with the dirty man1 and in time extracted the information that the cook always boiled the chops and steaks for a few minutes1 previous to browning them in a frying-pan4 ,this1 the waiter informed me1 was a capital thing for the soup4 ,we have endeavoured to explain the art of frying at greater length than it would be possible to do in any work on cooking1 and on some future occasion may again call attention to some of the points where ordinary books on the subject seem to us to fail to meet the requirements of small households4 ,unfortunately1 many of the best works on cooking are only adapted for very large establishments1 or hotels1 where probably a book would not be required4 ,for instance1 a recipe for ,yorkshire pie1 as given in one of the best works on cooking yet published1 commences as follows3--8,first bone a turkey1 a goose1 a brace of pheasants1 four partridges1 a dozen snipes1 four grouse1 and four widgeons2 then boil and trim a small ,york ham and two tongues10 c4 ,the recipe1 we have no doubt1 is excellent1 but with all due submission to so great an authority1 it appears scarcely adapted for small families of limited income4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,ii4--,,kitchen ,,economy4 ,there is perhaps no word so little understood1 or rather so misunderstood1 as the word 8economy40 ,just as there is a vulgar and popular impression that political economists are a hard-hearted1 selfish class1 so domestic economy is too often regarded as a synonymous term for meanness and want of hospitality4 ,conversely1 too many are apt to confound extravagance with liberality4 ,economy in regard to money has been defined as 8the judicious use of money40 ,so in cooking economy simply means the judicious use of materials4 ,in fact1 economy is closely allied to common-sense1 whereas extravagance is the twin sister of ignorance4 ,good cooks are never wasteful4 ,the difference between a good dish and a bad one often consists simply in the fact that in the one all the flavour has been extracted from the materials used2 in the other1 part--often the best part--has been lost and thrown away4 ,nowhere is waste and extravagance so wanton and reckless as among the extreme poor1 and the more ignorant the worse they are4 ,the savage method of cooking roast pork illustrates our point4 ,as savages are more ignorant even than the lowest of our own lower orders1 we ought to expect to find them more extravagant and reckless4 ,such is the case4 ,on one occasion an ,indian wigwam or hut1 containing a live pig1 caught fire4 ,after the fire had subsided1 and the embers were raked away1 the remains of the unfortunate animal were found inside1 which on being tasted proved to be far superior to the raw flesh to which the ,indians were accustomed4 ,consequently1 on great occasions1 when a dish of roast pork is required1 it has been the custom ever since to drive a pig into some small hut or house1 and then set the house on fire4 ,now1 this method has all the charm of simplicity1 but still it is not altogether an economical method2 though there are some dens and hovels even in this country where no one could regret the experiment4 ,but to take a simple case to illustrate our point1 we will describe that very common sauce1 lobster sauce1 and contrast it as it is with what it ought to be1 trusting that our description of the latter will be attended with the practical result of enabling those who read it to make it for themselves1 should they so desire1 besides something in addition4 ,first1 we all know the lobster sauce which too often is handed round as an accompaniment to some boiled fish1 such as turbot or brill4 ,it consists simply of melted butter1 with small pieces of lobster--some white1 some pink--cut up in it2 but as to the liquid sauce itself1 it does not contain even the slightest flavour of lobster whatever4 ,on the other hand1 good lobster sauce is of a bright red colour1 and tasting so strongly of lobster that it is too often apt to entirely overpower the flavour of the fish4 ,yet this latter has probably been made out of exactly the same materials as the former4 ,what1 then1 is the difference8 ,simply this3--,in the one case all the flavour of the lobster has been extracted1 and in the other it has not4 ,cutting up the meat of a lobster and putting the pieces into melted butter is no more making lobster sauce than cutting up a calf's head and throwing the pieces into boiling water would be making mock-turtle soup4 ,we will suppose1 now1 the very ordinary case of some lobster sauce being required for a small party1 say eight persons2 the ordinary method being for a lobster to be ordered1 the white part of the meat cut up and put into some melted butter1 while the pickings1 so called1 generally make a tit-bit at the kitchen supper1 with the usual accompaniment of at least a pint of vinegar4 ,now1 what is the difficulty8 ,first1 even a small lobster is amply sufficient to supply sauce for double the number4 ,every one who has eyes1 and knows how to use them1 must have observed how invariably it is the case that in small households fish sauce of any description is always made in gigantic proportions4 ,we have seen melted butter of the consistency of a pudding brought up for four persons1 in quantity sufficient for the table d'hte at the ,grand ,hotel in ,paris4 ,make up your mind1 therefore1 as follows3--,order a moderate-sized lobster1 and have a dish of lobster cutlets as an entre in addition to the sauce for the fish4 ,now1 there are few prettier dishes than lobster cutlets1 and few easier to make1 yet how rarely is it met with in small households6 ,first1 get a lobster containing some spawn and coral4 ,cut open the lobster and remove the whole of the meat1 including that in the claws1 and cut it up into small pieces1 and put it on a plate and place it in a cool place1 to be used as we shall explain by-and-by4 ,next take the spawn and coral and place it in a mortar with about twice the quantity of butter1 and pound it well together1 adding a good pinch of cayenne pepper4 ,you will by this means obtain what is called lobster butter1 and without it it is impossible to make either good lobster sauce1 or patties1 or cutlets1 or bisque--the latter being1 in other words1 lobster soup4 ,this lobster butter has a strong lobster flavour1 and is of an exceedingly brilliant colour4 ,it will keep a long time1 and good cooks should always try and have some by them1 as ofttimes lobsters contain neither spawn or coral4 ,scrape all the lobster butter out of the mortar1 and place it in some small jar for use4 ,next 7we are supposing that eight persons are the number at dinner71 take about a dessert-spoonful of the cut-up meat and put it by for the sauce--this quantity will be amply sufficient--and take all the rest of the meat and place it in a mortar1 and pound it up with the following materials1 previously chopped very fine3 a piece of onion as big as the top of the thumb down to the bottom of the nail1 a small tea-spoonful of chopped parsley1 and a piece of lemon-peel the size and thickness of the thumb-nail4 ,but while these are being pounded1 let us return to and finish making the lobster sauce4 ,first1 make a little rather thin melted butter1 using milk instead of water2 add sufficient lobster butter to make it a bright red colour1 this lobster butter containing as a rule sufficient cayenne pepper for the whole sauce4 ,add the dessert-spoonful of lobster meat1 about half a salt-spoonful of anchovy sauce1 and the same quantity of lemon-juice1 and the sauce is complete4 ,the quantity of melted butter made should be regulated by the size of the ladle in the sauce-tureen4 ,there are over twelve ordinary ladlefuls in half a pint2 as a rule each person takes one ladleful1 therefore half a pint of lobster sauce is more than sufficient for eight persons4 ,if you don't want waste1 tell your cook to pour a tumblerful of water into a sauce-tureen1 and see how much it looks1 and never to make more melted butter for eight or even ten persons4 ,the melted butter should not be made1 however1 until it is nearly dinner-time1 as properly-made melted butter is apt to decompose or run oily if exposed to heat too long4 ,and now1 let us return to the rest of the lobster1 which we left being pounded in the mortar1 and to which have been added the chopped onion1 parsley1 and lemon-peel in the proportions we have mentioned4 ,mix in sufficient lobster butter to make the whole mass appear of a bright-red colour--about a brimming tea-spoonful is generally sufficient to a medium-sized lobster4 ,after this add some ordinary butter--about two ounces--but1 of course1 the quantity must vary with the size and meatiness of the lobster1 but sufficient must be added to make the whole quantity into a sort of thick pudding1 which when struck with a table-spoon makes a noise like--slosh4 ,next mould the mass into a quantity of small pieces1 the size and shape of an oval picnic biscuit4 ,this moulding is best done with the hands1 by throwing the piece from one palm into the other4 ,dip each piece in a well-beaten-up egg--of course1 one egg is sufficient for the whole quantity--and then into some fine dry bread-crumbs4 ,fry in some boiling fat or lard for about two minutes1 and put each piece on a cloth to drain for a few minutes in front of the fire4 ,stick a small piece of the end of the small claws of the lobster--say about three-quarters of an inch long--into each1 to represent the bone of the cutlet1 and the dish is complete1 though it had better be put into the oven for four or five minutes just before serving4 ,when lobsters are cheap1 the cost of these pretty little red cutlets varies from one penny to three-half-pence each4 ,i once made twenty from a lobster that cost one shilling and sixpence4 ,there are many ignorant people1 who on seeing such a dish would imagine that it must be a very extravagant one2 and yet these same persons would think nothing of having a dish of six or eight ordinary mutton cutlets handed round as an entre1 costing at least sixpence each4 ,besides1 there is no comparison in the appearance of the two dishes4 ,there are1 perhaps1 few entres more invariably passed by at dinner-parties than mutton cutlets1 unless dressed ones1 which1 especially when truffles are used1 are very expensive4 ,a dish of bright-red lobster cutlets1 neatly arranged in a silver dish1 with a pile of crisp fried parsley in the centre1 always looks nice2 and if economy is very much thought of1 a few bread-crumbs added to the mass before moulding will increase the dish1 but we don't recommend the method3 we wish to be practical3 and the probable result of the suggestion to the cook is that the cutlets will be spoilt1 and the cook will have the best claw for her supper1 served au naturel--i4e41 with the vinegar aforesaid4 ,it seems very dreadful1 when one comes to think about it1 but how horribly dependent we all are upon our servants6 and1 as a rule1 how far less regard have they to economy than we have ourselves6 ,this is probably owing to early education--for instance1 the girl who in childhood has been accustomed to see her mother buy coals by the apronful4 ,yes1 gentle reader1 such is the fact1 which you may see for yourself any day in some of the poorer neighbourhoods in ,london4 ,i recollect a case once in which the apron-strings gave way1 thereby causing the coal-cellar to make a sudden and unexpected appearance on the pavement1 and calling forth the exclamation of-- 8,drat the thing60 ,yet this very girl1 who1 as we said1 has been used to see her mother lay in coals in this fashion1 when she goes out to service is so overcome by the inexhaustible supply1 as it seems to her1 in a cellar containing several tons1 that from sheer thoughtlessness she is extravagant to a degree4 ,in most houses the ashes are thrown up far more often in the dining-room than in the kitchen4 ,another and ofttimes a more terrible difficulty that young housekeepers have to contend with1 is the impenetrable stupidity of the women in her employ4 ,i recollect a most amusing case that occurred many years ago in a house at ,woolwich4 ,an elderly lady--one of the good old sort1 not above occasional interference in domestic matters--had personally superintended the preparation of that somewhat nasty creature in the raw state1 a hare for jugging4 ,the richest of gravy had been prepared1 the joints of the hare had been neatly browned in a frying-pan without being cooked4 ,cloves1 port wine1 c4--nothing had been forgotten1 and the whole had been placed in a large jug1 and only required being put to simmer gently in some boiling water4 ,now1 the elderly lady wisely thought that the copper would be as safe a place as any wherein to stand the jug1 the water reaching about half-way up1 this method having the additional advantage of leaving more room on the kitchen fire1 besides obviating the risk of its being upset by the saucepan--if the jug were placed in one--being hastily moved4 ,directions were given accordingly4 ,imagine the elderly lady's face on discovering1 about a quarter of an hour before dinner1 that ,mary ,ann had put the jug in the copper by simply emptying it in6 ,but ,i fear ,i have rather got away from my subject1 which is that of economy4 ,now1 economy is the very soul of cookery1 and can be alike practised in the palace and the cottage1 and1 unfortunately1 is less regarded in the latter than in the former4 ,it is wonderful how many really nice dishes may be made out of odds and ends4 ,in a well-managed house there ought not to be enough left to keep even a dog2 whereas1 if the truth were known1 the contents of the dust-bins alone in ,england contain sufficient food to almost banish poverty from the land4 ,this may seem a strong statement1 but it is no more strong than true4 ,recollect waste is a crime2 and were it in our power--which it is not--to be able to multiply food even to a miraculous extent1 it would not the less be our duty to 8gather up the fragments that remain1 that nothing be lost40 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,iii4--,,little ,,extravagancies ,,of ,,the ,,table4 ,the importance of such a subject as the one ,i have now taken in hand is apt to be much underrated4 ,many a starving family could be fed from the wasted superabundance which falls1 in too many cases1 not only from the rich man's1 but the comparatively poor man's table4 ,there is no extravagance so disastrous as the extravagance of ignorance4 ,it is perhaps as difficult to define precisely where hospitality and comfort end1 and extravagance begins1 as it is to define where economy ends and meanness begins4 ,strange to say1 however1 we not unfrequently find extravagance and meanness go hand in hand4 ,how often do we find households conducted upon inconsistent principles6 ,for instance1 a fine large house1 dogs1 horses1 and carriages1 and yet one cannot get a good glass of sherry at dinner1 or any wine at all after4 ,rows of fine greenhouses as well as hot-houses1 full of rare plants1 and no fire in the bedroom4 ,i sometimes think that quite the poor are a great deal better off than the rich for real luxuries4 ,i know ,i have stopped at some houses1 and thought with a sigh of the poor man's1 with the feather bed1 especially when the blankets are out of pawn4 ,after all1 happiness is much more equally distributed in the world than some people think for1 and living in one room has its advantages as well as its drawbacks4 ,the pennyworth of fried fish warmed up in the oven1 with appetite sauce1 will hold its own with the best of vols-au-vent without4 ,but all this has very little to do with the subject1 which is not household management in general1 but table extravagance in particular4 ,perhaps the most common form of extravagance is profusion1 which is very marked in certain dishes2 and we before called attention to melted butter1 which is invariably made in quantity sufficient for quite ten times the number at dinner4 ,fish is commonly supplied in quantity enough for double the number2 for instance1 three or four persons do not want a pair of large soles2 one would be ample1 and the other would do for breakfast cooked fresh2 instead1 it is either warmed up and spoilt1 or eaten cold at the servants' supper with a knife and vinegar4 ,another form of extravagance is cooking too many potatoes every day regularly4 ,i know one or two houses where more than half the dish of potatoes has been left every day for the last twenty years1 and ,i feel confident will continue to be left for twenty years to come4 ,again1 some servants invariably cut up a great deal more bread for dinner than is necessary1 the stale pieces left too often finding their way into the pig-tub4 ,speaking of pig-tubs reminds me of a little incident that came to my knowledge only last ,christmas4 ,a gentleman living in a country village kept one pig1 and had been in the habit of paying #as4 a week for grains from the brewery4 ,his gardener1 who lived in a little cottage a mile off1 and kept pigs of his own1 informed him that he was in the habit of buying pigwash from the cooks in the neighbourhood1 to whom he paid #as4 a month1 and suggested that he should receive the #as4 a week1 and in return find the wash1 guaranteeing the pig would thrive far better4 ,the first pail of wash the man brought to the house ought indeed to be a caution to housekeepers1 containing as it did large lumps of bread1 whole cooked potatoes1 and chicken-bones half-picked4 ,the gentleman1 who is my own brother1 declared to me that he had seen pails of pig-wash containing broken victuals sufficient to keep a poor family for a week1 and jokingly remarked that should he ever be really hard up1 he should dine at his pig's4 ,these facts1 however1 are no joke4 ,i believe the extravagance of ignorant servants1 in large households where the mistress does not enter into domestic affairs1 is beyond all conception4 ,as ,sam ,weller observes1 if some servants got their deserts it would be very little cold swarry they would ever eat again4 ,i have known cases where a jug of beer left from a late dinner has been poured down the sink1 and some fresh beer drawn for the kitchen supper1 on the ground that the beer left would taste flat4 ,some joints are undoubtedly more extravagant than others4 ,i wonder what a ,french cook thinks of the ,english roast loin of mutton4 ,the bones are always left half-picked on the plate1 and too often the end left altogether1 besides which the roast loin of mutton seems to possess the unamiable property of getting cold sooner than any other joint ,i know of4 ,now1 bone the joint1 and stuff it with veal stuffing2 the raw bones will of course make soup1 and nothing is wasted4 ,it is always extravagant to use up any joint or poultry1 when it can be helped1 when bones are left on the plates4 ,i succeeded some little time ago in persuading a shockingly bad housekeeper not to bring up the remains of a large turkey cold4 ,it was treated instead as follows3--,with the assistance of a small tin of mushrooms1 part of it made some ,russian ,kromeskies2 another part made a dish of mince2 some nice slices cut off the remains of the breast were converted into a capital ,mayonnaise2 while the two legs--for it was a fine bird1 weighing twenty-one pounds--were devilled1 and sent up with some devil sauce1 which ,i may briefly describe as follows3--,cut up some young onions very fine1 and moisten them with a very little ,french vinegar1 and boil for about five or six minutes2 add some cayenne pepper1 some good strong gravy1 wine1 and anchovy butter1 which latter consists of filleted anchovies pounded very thoroughly in a mortar with some butter and cayenne4 ,any grilled meat1 such as a chop1 or drumsticks of fowls1 is very much improved by a sauce of this kind4 ,of course1 the cayenne must be suited in quantity to the tastes of the eaters4 ,but to return to the turkey3 by treating it in the manner ,i have described1 there was no waste1 all the bones being saved1 and the result was that they made more than half a gallon of stock1 which when cold was a hard jelly4 ,another common form of waste is home-made pastry4 ,i recollect some oyster patties as they were called1 but oyster pies as they really were1 being very nearly as big as cheese-plates1 in which the pastry was so out of proportion to the oyster that the dish was almost ludicrous1 the impossibility of eating even a quarter of the pastry being self-evident the moment the pie was cut4 ,i have seen lobster patties made on a similar principle1 in which1 when the top was taken off1 the lobster part appeared beneath1 something not merely in colour1 but in size resembling a red wafer4 ,now these dishes are really very extravagant1 for the reason that they cost both money and trouble1 and in the end no one eats them4 ,a somewhat eccentric form of the 8extravagance of ignorance0 to which ,i have alluded1 is that of warming up joints that have been not only cooked before1 but cut4 ,in the first place1 if the joint is cooked properly the first day1 every one possessing even the vestige of a palate would surely prefer it cold to being warmed up and spoilt4 ,the probable reason of warming up a joint a second day is that the cook knows of no other way of extricating herself from the difficulty of sending up cold meat4 ,such extreme ignorance is1 however1 ,i am pleased to say1 rare4 ,i once knew a case of a loin of mutton which went through the following awful processes3--,first it was roasted1 fortunately being a trifle blue2 the second day it was roasted again1 the flavour being of course quite gone4 ,the awful part remains behind--the rest was cut into chops1 egged and bread-crumbed1 and sent up as cutlets2 and ,i1 alas6 ate one4 ,another instance of waste and extravagance is a ham which is allowed to get musty4 ,it will be found that a ham when it first comes up is very popular1 but wait till the middle bone is distinctly visible1 and the fat has a yellow tinge and doubtful smell--no one will touch it4 ,but why let it go so far8 ,why not pot it8 ,potted ham is easily made1 will keep a long time1 and is always useful4 ,now1 to pot ham1 take a pound of the lean to half a pound of the fat1 or less--in fact1 a pound of lean to a quarter of fat does even better for potting--mince it very fine1 or1 better still1 run it through a sausage-machine1 and add to1 say the pound and a half1 a small tea-spoonful of pounded mace1 about a quarter of a good-sized nutmeg1 grated1 of course1 and about a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper4 ,less mace may be used1 or a little pounded allspice added instead2 one dried bay-leaf powdered may be added also4 ,mix all this up thoroughly1 and press it down in the dish or pot in which it will be served4 ,bake it in the oven for about twenty-five minutes1 taking care the top does not brown1 and then press it down very hard--a weight is a good thing to use for the purpose--and cover the top with some fresh lard1 which must be first melted1 and then poured on the top4 ,ham potted this way will keep good for months4 ,fresh clarified butter may be used1 but lard is best1 especially in summer4 ,one very common form of extravagance1 which is essentially the extravagance of ignorance1 is giving the cook orders for certain dishes without ascertaining whether the materials are in season or not4 ,i recollect hearing1 some time ago1 of a married couple living in ,london1 who1 liking a little fish every day for dinner1 made a contract with the fishmonger to send each day1 about six o'clock1 what fish suited him best2 ,i believe they paid regularly #f;d4 a day4 ,it is on such principles that tables-d'hte can be given so cheaply at hotels4 ,the manager of the hotel goes to market and buys--especially in fish--what happens to be plentiful4 ,good wholesome fish may be bought in ,billingsgate ,market sometimes at a penny a pound4 ,let me now endeavour to tell you how to make mock-turtle soup out of pig's head1 instead of calf's head4 ,now1 calves' heads vary immensely in price2 when half a head can be got for #bs4 #f;d4 or #cs41 it is a fairly economical dish2 but when calves' heads1 as happens sometimes about ,christmas1 owing to the extraordinary demand for them1 run up to a guinea each1 of course the dish would be extravagant to a degree4 ,i don't know what the price of pigs' heads is in the country1 but in ,london they can generally be bought for #f;d4 a pound4 ,to make mock-turtle soup from1 say half a head1 first scald it thoroughly1 then put it on to boil gently in some stock made from bones4 ,the drawback to the soup is that it has a tendency to taste greasy1 consequently the point to be always borne in mind is to thoroughly get rid of the fat4 ,after the pig's head has boiled for about an hour and a half1 take it out1 let it get partially cold1 then cut the meat off the head exactly in the same shape as the pieces of calf's head in good mock-turtle soup2 let each piece be about an inch and a half or two inches square4 ,these should be allowed to get cold between two large dishes1 the bottom one being placed upside-down1 as in cooling they have a tendency to curl1 and they look far better flat4 ,put all the bones of the head back into the stock1 and let them boil as long as you like4 ,i would mention1 in passing1 that a couple of bay-leaves in the stock are a great improvement4 ,next thicken the stock with brown thickening1 which is1 as ,i have before described1 simply flour fried brown in butter4 ,let the whole boil very gently1 and keep skimming it carefully4 ,it is surprising what a lot of fat there will be on it4 ,this soup should always be made the day before it is wanted1 in order to let it get cold2 the fat can then be taken off1 but ,i would warn cooks against supposing that because soup has got cold all the fat will necessarily float to the top1 as this is not the case4 ,a great deal of fat is what may be termed held in solution in the soup1 and is only thrown up by boiling4 ,when therefore all the fat has been got rid of1 the pieces of meat can be replaced in the soup1 and some sherry added--golden sherry1 or1 still better1 madeira--and recollect that this latter wine is fairly cheap again now2 as1 therefore1 you have saved money over the pig's head instead of the calf's head1 you can afford to be a little more generous with the wine4 ,it is wonderful what a difference this latter makes in the flavour2 only just taste it for yourself before and after4 ,soup like this will bear a large claret-glass of sherry1 or even more2 only pray put in the wine yourself1 for if your cook happens to 8have a weakness that way10 it may never be mingled with the soup at all4 ,i believe it to be real extravagance to buy things that are out of season1 in addition to it being foolish4 ,it will generally be found that things are nicest when cheapest2 for instance1 strawberries are never so good as when they can be bought for #f;d4 a basket4 ,who the people are that buy the peaches at #es4 each1 pines at a guinea1 and green peas at #ajs4 a pint1 ,i cannot say1 but that such people exist is evident from a walk through ,covent ,garden ,market4 ,such sort of extravagance seems to me to be hardly consistent with good moral character4 ,there is a story told of a lady who was particularly fond of the 8,pope's eye0 in a leg of mutton1 and would often have a dozen legs ordered1 simply for the sake of cutting out the 8,pope's eyes10 the rest of the meat being given to hounds4 ,the story1 however1 sounds too wicked to be true4 ,i heard a delightful story1 a short time ago1 of an extravagant husband who was blessed1 or cursed1 as the case may be1 with a wife who may be described as 8a little near40 ,in expectation of a dinner-party1 which to him was a business dinner1 expecting as he did some friends from the ,city1 he ordered a salmon from his fishmonger1 the price being #a4 ,fearing1 however1 that his better half would find fault with the price1 and being anxious to prove himself good at a bargain1 he paid down #ajs1 and sent home the fish as if the remaining #ajs was the whole charge4 ,on his return1 his wife1 with great glee1 told him how she had disposed of the fish to her friend ,mrs4 ----1 who had called1 seen the fish1 and1 thinking it remarkably cheap1 had offered #aes4 for it1 which offer had been gladly accepted4 ,the wretched man's feelings can be better imagined than described2 but the moral of the story1 which is really true1 seems to be--,don't deceive your wife6 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,iv4--,,cold ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton4 ,a few years ago the leading comic journal of the day had the following graphic little sketch3--,a middle-aged gentleman1 leaving his house-door in the morning1 inquires-- 8,what is there for dinner to-day1 ,mary80 8,cold mutton1 sir40 8,then you can tell your mistress that she need not wait dinner for me40 ,now1 although this sounds exceedingly selfish1 yet perhaps the blame is not entirely due to one side only4 ,there can be no doubt that1 just as among the lower orders there are hundreds of wives who1 from ignorance and stupidity1 drive their husbands to the public-house1 so among the middle classes there are as many who from the same causes too often drive them to the 8,club40 ,now1 the increase in the number of these luxurious establishments in the present day is something wonderful4 ,it has already had a marked effect upon the restaurants in the metropolis1 some of which now do not dine half what they did formerly2 but it remains to be seen how far the clubs will in time affect the ,registrar-,general's marriage-returns4 ,as this latter point is of the greatest importance to that large and charming portion of the population1 the young unmarried ladies1 we trust we may be pardoned if for one moment we pause to ask them a few questions4 ,did you ever consider how your future husband is accustomed to dine every day1 and contrast it with the way in which he will dine when you will have the management of the household8 ,we will suppose him to be accustomed to the ordinary club dinner1 or say the regimental mess4 ,do you not feel how entirely dependent you will be on your cook8 ,should she be clever and honest1 you may do very well4 ,should she1 however1 be idle and dishonest1 what will you do8 ,now do not1 pray1 think that to get a good common-sense cook is by any means an easy affair4 ,if you only inquire of your friends and relations1 you will soon find out the difficulty4 ,you have all probably read that exquisite little sketch in 8,david ,copperfield10 who mildly addresses his 8child-wife0 as follows3--8,you must remember1 ,i am sure1 that ,i was obliged to go out yesterday when dinner was half-over1 and that the day before ,i was made quite unwell by being obliged to eat underdone veal in a hurry2 to-day ,i don't dine at all2 and ,i am afraid to say how long we waited for breakfast1 and then the water didn't boil4 ,i don't mean to reproach you1 my dear1 but this is not comfortable40 ,unfortunately1 this is only a slight exaggeration of what goes on every day in many houses throughout the country4 ,what housekeepers should strive at is to get a nice little savoury dinner1 and yet at the same time to be economical4 ,we will now take a simple case to illustrate our point1 and suppose that the larder contains the remains of a cold leg of mutton1 which leg has been decently cooked1 and did not the previous day appear as a ghastly sight after a few cuts1 like one of those horrible pictures in the penny journal that disgraces some of our shop-windows4 ,we will suppose the time of year to be early summer4 ,a good many young wives under these circumstances would simply order a cucumber--possibly a shilling each--and think that everything had been done that was necessary2 or some1 still worse1 would order the cook to hash the remains of the mutton--and a nice hash they make of it1 in another sense of the word2 for who has not at times seen that dreadful dish of immense size1 covered with often hard slices of mutton1 the whole swimming in a quantity of thin broth--we cannot call it gravy--in which slices of onion vie with sodden sippets as to which shall look the least inviting8 ,now1 when such a dish appears1 probably the husband1 accustomed formerly to his club or college dinner1 or the mess1 says nothing2 but he feels--8,i don't mean to reproach you1 my dear1 but this is not comfortable40 ,now1 as the cookery-books say1 suppose we give 8another method40 ,the cook in the morning early has cut off all the meat from the leg-of-mutton bone1 and put it by in the larder4 ,she has then chopped up the bone into small pieces1 and put it on the fire to make stock1 with the usual et cetera--viz41 some onion1 carrot1 turnip1 celery1 and parsley4 ,we will also suppose the house to contain some frying-fat1 bacon or ham1 and eggs4 ,the first dish we would recommend would be some rissoles4 ,take three or four small slices of the mutton1 picking out those containing most fat1 and one slice of bacon containing twice the quantity of fat to lean2 chop up finely a small piece of onion rather larger than the top of the thumb down to the first joint1 sufficient parsley when chopped fine to fill a tea-spoon1 about enough thyme to cover a sixpence1 or rather less if the thyme be strong2 add a little cayenne pepper and salt4 ,chop the whole ingredients very fine1 or1 still better1 send them through a sausage-machine4 ,when thoroughly chopped1 the whole mass ought to be sufficiently moist to be capable of being rolled up into balls4 ,if this is not the case1 it only shows that there has not been sufficient fat put with it4 ,these balls should be about the size of a large walnut4 ,dip each ball into some well beaten-up egg1 and afterwards into some fine bread-crumbs4 ,fry them in some boiling fat for two or three minutes1 which will generally be found sufficient to make them of a nice golden-colour4 ,next1 for the gravy1 which ought to surround them1 take about half a cup of stock1 add to it a little brown thickening--i4e41 some flour fried a light golden-colour in an equal quantity of butter--some of which thickening ought always to be kept in the house1 as it will keep good for many months4 ,enough of this brown thickening should be boiled in the half tea-cup of stock to make it a good colour1 and a little thick4 ,add a tea-spoonful of sherry to give it a nice flavour1 and1 if liked1 a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup4 ,pour the gravy round the rissoles1 which will be found none the worse for being warmed up in the oven4 ,a little piece of fresh green parsley may be placed on each rissole1 by way of garnish4 ,and now for the next dish1 which will consist of mince with poached eggs4 ,we would1 however1 remind the reader that the previous dish required bread-crumbs and boiling fat4 ,in order to make the bread-crumbs1 cut a large slice of bread of equal thickness1 and having removed the crust1 with a tin cutter or a small knife cut four pieces of bread the shape of a heart1 about the size of a queen's-cake1 and about an inch thick4 ,put these four pieces by carefully1 so as not to break them1 and make the bread-crumbs out of the remainder of the pieces1 bearing in mind that the crusts will make an excellent bread pudding some other time4 ,then1 when the fat is boiling for the rissoles1 throw these pieces of heart-shaped bread into it4 ,in a very short time they will become a bright golden-colour1 when they should be taken out and placed on a cloth in front of the fire4 ,should there be any black specks on them1 they will easily scrape off4 ,these fried pieces of bread look like rusks in appearance1 and their shape renders them infinitely superior to sippets as a garnish4 ,next take sufficient mutton for the mince1 and chop it up1 warming it in a small stew-pan with just sufficient stock to moisten it1 taking great care it does not boil1 as in that case the mince would be tough4 ,with regard to giving a little extra flavour to the mince1 besides1 of course1 a little pepper and salt1 that is a matter of taste4 ,rubbing the bottom of the stew-pan with a bead of garlic is an excellent method1 though of course it must not be adopted where the flavour of garlic is not liked4 ,a small quantity of ,worcester sauce may be added2 but the general mistake is to put too much rather than too little4 ,next poach some eggs1 allowing one egg to each person2 pile up the mince neatly in a dish1 and put the eggs on the top1 cutting them neatly round1 so that the yolk is surrounded with a rim of the white4 ,garnish the dish with the four fried hearts of bread1 with a very small piece of parsley stuck in each1 and have a little finely-chopped parsley--enough to cover a threepenny-piece would be ample--to sprinkle bit by bit on the eggs1 which renders the dish prettier4 ,a very little pinch of pepper may be placed in the centre of each egg4 ,care must be taken that the cover1 as well as the dish1 is made thoroughly hot1 and of course the eggs must not be poached until a minute or so before they are wanted4 ,two dishes such as we have described1 served nice and hot1 in rather small dishes than otherwise--how different are they to the large cold joint1 or the immense dish of hash too often seen6 ,young housekeepers should always bear in mind that very much more depends on appearances than they think for4 ,when alone--i4e41 tte--tte with their husbands--let the dining-table be made as small as possible1 let the cloth and dinner-napkins be white as snow1 and the latter exactly folded into some pretty shape4 ,if possible1 let there be a few flowers in the centre of the table4 ,see that the wine-glasses are without a blemish4 ,a smeary glass always betrays a slovenly servant1 and the latter equally betrays a slovenly mistress4 ,there is also no objection to having a green glass put to each person1 even if no hock or similar wine be drunk2 it brightens up the table1 and looks--well1 more club-like4 ,if these little things--small in themselves1 but they all tell--be attended to1 a bright face and a bright pair of eyes will more than compensate for all the rest4 ,there are many good housekeepers who may read this who will say1 8,why1 all this is exceedingly simple1 and only what everybody knew before60 ,such1 however1 is not the case4 ,the amount of absolute ignorance of the very first principles of cooking is far more common than many persons imagine4 ,again1 too1 with regard to the ornamental part of cooking--i4e41 the art of making dishes look nice and tempting--there are hundreds of fairly good plain cooks1 as they are called1 who seem quite incapable of grasping the simplest idea of the subject4 ,it is in this matter of taste1 often1 that the mistress will find her influence most beneficial1 as her superior education will1 as a rule1 enable her to grasp ideas far more quickly than the uncultivated mind of the domestic4 ,for instance1 we most of us know the difference between a cold roast pheasant1 perfectly plain1 placed on a dish1 and the same bird glazed and decorated with bright green parsley and cut lemon1 and some of its feathers stuck in it in an artistic manner2 yet there are1 especially among ignorant countrywomen1 many who would fail to see much difference4 ,it is in this respect that the ,french are so far superior as a nation to the ,english1 though probably the highest class ,english cooks are better than the best ,french4 ,compare1 for instance1 a ,french pastrycook's window in ,paris1 and one of a similar class in ,london4 ,in the above directions1 recollect that there was some stock made4 ,now this stock1 if it was required1 would make a little soup in a few minutes2 the addition of a little extract of meat1 and a good pinch of vermicelli1 being all that would be required4 ,suppose therefore your husband had committed that dreadfully thoughtless act1 bringing home a friend unexpectedly to dinner--you would really have nothing to be ashamed of4 ,the dinner would consist of some vermicelli soup1 a dish of rissoles1 a dish of mince and poached eggs1 ornamented as we have described1 and by simply ordering a savoury omelette to follow--very few men care about sweets--you would probably be rewarded after the guest's departure with an inquiry as to where you got all those things for dinner from4 ,on the other hand1 think of the cold leg of mutton--such an inartistic thing when it has been cut into--or the dreadful dish of hash1 which1 somehow or other1 has got as bad a name as a cold shoulder1 although properly-made hash is a very nice dish4 ,how much better all this is than the ordinary course of proceedings--viz41 the arrival of a telegram in the afternoon as follows3-- 8,mr4 ,a4 ,b4 to ,mrs4 ,a4 ,b4--,i shall bring home a friend to dinner--make dinner #f4cj40 ,mrs4 ,a4 ,b4 instantly issues forth--the extravagance of the shilling telegram has its unconscious effect4 ,she probably orders a pheasant1 or any bird in season2 some gravy-beef to make gravy2 perhaps1 in addition1 a mould of jelly from the pastrycook's1 which is not cut after dinner at all4 ,ah6 ,mrs4 ,a4 ,b41 a little more pains taken to make things look nice as well as taste nice when alone1 and a little less ostentation and extravagance when you receive visitors1 would make your home more happy4 ,your husband should never feel that he is the only one in the world for whom anything is good enough4 ,but if young ladies are ignorant of the first principles of cooking1 what shall we say about some of the men8 ,i recollect at ,cambridge1 once1 efforts made by two novices to make a sweet omelette4 ,they thought that by breaking eggs into a saucepan1 and adding sugar and jam1 the result would be an omelette4 ,with the slight contretemps of one or two of the eggs falling outside the saucepan1 instead of in1 and landing all shaking--perhaps with laughing--among the ashes of the grate1 they got the ingredients in at last1 and stirred them over the fire4 ,after repeated failures--as1 of course1 without any butter it burnt almost immediately--they gave up their attempts1 after exhausting their supply of eggs--sixteen in number--and wasting a whole pot of jam4 ,one of these novices is a great friend of mine1 and on one occasion when in ,scotland he was one of a party who1 during the season when all the hotels and lodgings were full1 were obliged to take refuge in a furnished house1 where1 however1 there were no servants at all4 ,the party1 all of whom were young1 were quite delighted at the idea of managing for themselves for a few days4 ,everybody did something1 and though it was some years ago1 ,i fortunately had sufficient knowledge of the culinary art to keep us from raw meat or starvation4 ,a small cod-fish captured by one of us was brought home for dinner4 ,the ignoramus in question was caught endeavouring to clean the fish1 which he had got tightly grasped by the throat with his left hand1 by pushing his thumb and finger down its mouth1 and pulling out whatever he could from inside4 ,and yet this man was an ,m4,a4 ,cantab4 ,it has1 of course1 been a standing joke ever since4 ,now1 when we come to consider how ignorant even educated people are with regard to cooking1 what are we to expect when we turn to the poor8 ,too often persons will be found to exclaim against the waste1 the ignorance1 the extravagance1 c41 of the lower orders1 who forget that the fault to a great extent lies with the upper4 ,in how many national schools in ,england are the rudiments of cooking taught1 or even hinted at8 ,the girl who in after-life will have to scrub floors1 wash her husband's clothes1 and cook his dinner1 is taught history1 geography1 c42 but surely it is equally important to her to know how to make an ,irish stew1 as to be able to name the principal ,irish rivers4 ,it is more useful to know how not to spoil shirts in the ,wash1 than to know ,king ,john lost his baggage there4 ,i do not for one moment mean to say that poor children should not be taught history1 geography1 and drawing1 but that the first principles of cooking form a more important branch of education for them4 ,it is a common thing to find in the country that the only method of cooking a piece of meat is to stick a fork in it and toast it before the fire1 letting all the fat and gravy drop into the ashes and waste4 ,of course1 the difficulty to be contended with in any encounter with invincible ignorance is very great4 ,a clergyman once told me that years ago he had the elder girls among the most ignorant of the poor instructed by his cook1 in his own kitchen1 how to make ,irish stews and other economical dishes4 ,they one and all succeeded in learning2 all said that it was much nicer than what they got at home4 ,upon making inquiries1 however1 a few weeks after1 among his parishioners1 he found that in no single instance was the attempt made to introduce the new style into their own homes4 ,meat1 when they had it1 was toasted and wasted as before4 ,were1 however1 every child in ,england to be daily taught at school the importance of economy in the preparation of food1 the seeds of knowledge thus sown might sink into the mind1 lie dormant for a time1 but take root1 and eventually bring forth a crop1 the result of which would be to increase the wealth of the country1 to how great an extent no one can say4 ,the enormous resources of ,france are principally owing to the thrifty habits of the population4 ,one of the largest employers of labourers in the ,north told me a short time back that a ,french workman could do double with his wages what an ,englishman could4 ,perhaps the ,london ,school ,board may some day consider the subject4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,v4--,,how ,,to ,,make ,,dishes ,,look ,,nice4 ,i fear that as a nation taste is not our forte4 ,i wonder1 too1 if there is any ,french expression that would fully convey the idea1 8,wanted1 a good plain cook40 ,wanted1 a woman who can convert joints of raw meat into some state sufficiently intermediate between blueness and cinders as to render them eatable1 and who also can make certain plain puddings1 more or less heavy1 as the case may be1 but who has no more conception of artistic taste than a cabbage1 and would be as incapable of making a dish look elegant as of singing the shadow dance from 8,dinorah40 ,and yet many of these persons are good honest souls1 who mean well and do their best1 but somehow or other it is not in them1 and what is more1 it never will be4 ,they have been born in an uncongenial clime4 ,for instance1 contrast the dress of an ,english workman's wife whose husband earns1 say1 #b a week1 with that of a ,frenchwoman in a similar station of life1 and yet probably the latter spends less in dress than the former4 ,we have already compared a ,french pastrycook's window with an ,english one1 but if there is ever a time in which we feel that ,waterloo is indeed avenged1 it is when we contrast a ,french salade with the ordinary ,english specimen4 ,it is somewhat strange1 too1 that the generality of cookery-books intended for household use signally fail to explain how to make dishes look nice4 ,for instance1 8garnish with beetroot and hard-boiled eggs10 is a very poor direction to give to one of the above-mentioned good plain cooks4 ,some again give the lucid direction--8garnish prettily40 ,other works1 too1 are at times extremely tantalising to young housekeepers with plenty of natural good taste1 yet without the faintest knowledge of the principles of cookery2 they of course consult the cookery-book1 which has perhaps been made attractive by some beautiful coloured engravings of dishes4 ,we can well imagine a young wife in deep consultation with her next sister a week before her first dinner-party1 the cookery-book between them4 8,oh6 what a pretty-looking dish10 exclaims one2 8let's have that40 ,alas6 the index is hunted over in vain1 no description of how to make the dish appears at all2 the next pretty-looking dish determined on shares a similar fate2 and at last they give it up in despair1 and either fix on dishes of which they have no idea what the appearance will be when done1 or more probably leave it to the cook to do as she likes1 with one or two little things from the pastrycook's--an expensive way of going to work1 it should be borne in mind4 ,i have been asked several times in strict confidence the question1 8,but ought it to have looked like that80--a question often involving a necessary sacrifice of either truth or politeness4 ,francatelli observes3 8,the palate is as capable and nearly as worthy of education as the eye and the ear40 ,now1 without entering into the question as to whether a patty to eat is equal to a ,patti to hear or see in the way of enjoyment1 there is no doubt that the palate is to a great extent influenced by the eye4 ,for instance1 a large cold sirloin of beef on the sideboard at a good old-fashioned hotel1 neatly decorated with bright green parsley and snow-white curly horseradish2 the dish resting on an equally snow-white cloth2 its companions consisting of as tempting-looking a ,york ham1 and some bright silver flagons1 the latter enabling the looker-on almost to realise the 8nut-brown ale0 talked about of old1 though what it was like we have not the least idea4 ,there is a common saying1 8,it makes one hungry to look at it02 or 8,it makes one's mouth water40 ,yet contrast this same piece of cold beef with a joint ,i recollect being once brought up for supper at some lodgings1 where ,mary ,ann was1 to say the least1 inartistic4 ,she brought it up just as it was in the dish in which it had got cold--the dish smeary round the rim with ,mary ,ann's thumb-marks4 ,the gravy had of course settled1 and was thickly studded over with hard white wafers of fat4 ,some of the fat1 too1 had of course settled on the meat itself4 ,yet the meat was in every respect equal to the decorated joint1 and many a poor hungry man would see no difference between the two1 any more than a hungry bull-dog would4 ,at least1 some might even prefer the latter1 in order to lap up the cold gravy with the blade of their knives4 ,a poached egg nicely done1 the yellow yolk surrounded with an equal rim of clear white1 in contradistinction to one badly done1 in which the yolk has broken and run and got mixed up with the white1 is another instance of how much depends upon appearances1 for both eggs would be equally wholesome4 ,now1 there are few nicer and at the same time prettier-looking dishes than a salade mayonnaise4 ,yet too often when directions are given1 in books or otherwise1 how to make mayonnaise sauce1 the latter point--that is1 appearance--is altogether left out of the question4 ,making mayonnaise sauce1 and simply mixing it up with some lettuce1 and lobster1 and hard-boiled egg1 is certainly making a very nice lobster salade4 ,just in the same way the most beautiful clear jelly might be handed round in white pudding-basins1 or even in the saucepan in which it was boiled2 but how different to a handsome mould1 with a few preserved fruits inside it1 placed in the centre of a bright cut-glass dish1 and a little cut lemon by way of garnish6 ,but we have been long enough on the subject1 8,how not to do it10 and must begin at once4 ,first the ingredients3--,a lobster2 and if there is any coral in it1 take it out1 and make some lobster butter with it1 as it will do no good to the salade4 ,this lobster butter will keep1 and enable you at a future period to make lobster sauce in a hurry out of a preserved tin of lobster2 and this cannot be done without lobster butter4 ,next1 some fresh lettuces 7,french are by far the best for mayonnaise salades71 two fresh eggs--as we are only going to describe how to make enough for about four persons--some oil1 and a little parsley4 ,we will also suppose the house to contain some vinegar1 a bottle of capers1 a bottle of anchovies1 and a bottle of olives1 at the same time reminding timid housekeepers that these latter will do over and over again1 and that probably a shilling bottle of each will last a twelvemonth4 ,we will now describe how a cook ought to proceed in order to make a good lobster salade4 ,the first thing she would do would be to put an egg in a saucepan1 and boil it for twenty minutes or so1 and then place it in cold water to get cold4 ,next1 take a couple of anchovies out of the bottle1 and put them on a plate 7putting the bottle back in the cupboard2 for if you get in the habit of putting each thing by in its place as you use them1 you will never get into a muddle74 ,next1 take a small penknife1 and cut the anchovy open longways1 and carefully remove the bone2 if this is done properly1 each anchovy will make four fillets or thin strips varying from two to three inches2 wash them thoroughly in cold water1 to remove all the salt and soft part4 ,dry them1 and roll them up1 as they look at times too much like worms if not rolled4 ,next1 take a tea-spoonful of capers1 and drain them carefully on a cloth1 in order to thoroughly remove the vinegar in which they have been preserved4 ,next1 take six olives1 and stone them4 ,this is done by cutting a strip off them as thick as you can1 keeping the edge of the knife scraping the stone the whole time4 ,as a rule1 the olive will look round after the stone is taken out1 but of course they have no ends to them4 ,a little practice will enable the cook to cut out the stone quite bare1 leaving the flesh1 so to speak1 of the olive in one piece1 which curls up again1 and looks like an olive that had never been touched4 ,these directions may to some seem unnecessarily minute2 but then we are writing for others who perhaps have never seen an olive except in a bottle in the grocer's window1 and then they thought them preserved plums4 ,next1 chop up not too finely a little piece of bright-green parsley2 enough to cover a threepenny-piece when chopped is quite sufficient4 ,put all these things by on a clean dry plate for use--viz41 the hard-boiled egg1 cold1 with the shell on2 the anchovies1 rolled up2 the capers1 dry2 the olives1 stoned2 the parsley1 chopped4 ,and1 as we have said1 clear away what you have used before beginning anything fresh4 ,next1 wipe1 or quickly wash in cold water and wipe1 the lettuces1 and pile them up lightly in a silver or any oval-shaped dish4 ,next1 remove all the meat from the lobster1 not forgetting the soft part inside and the claws2 cut it all up into small pieces not much bigger than dice1 and spread the meat over the top of the lettuce in the dish1 taking care as much as possible to make the shape high in the centre4 ,a sort of oval pyramid may convey the idea1 though it is not a very mathematical expression4 ,sprinkle a little pepper and salt over the lobster1 and put the dish by in a cool place4 ,next1 the sauce itself4 ,i believe the directions generally given to be wrong in this respect4 ,it is a mistake to put in any pepper1 salt1 or vinegar at starting4 ,i will therefore describe exactly how to make mayonnaise sauce1 at the same time stating that out of the dozens of times ,i have tried1 ,i only remember one failure1 and that was on a fearfully hot day1 and ,i had no ice4 ,take a clean1 cool basin1 the size being one sufficient to hold about a quart4 ,next1 take an egg1 break the egg into a tea-cup1 and carefully separate all the white from the yolk4 ,this requires care1 and the yolk must be passed from one half-shell to the other half very gently1 in order to avoid breaking it4 ,it is no use trying to do it at all with a stale egg4 ,place the yolk in a basin1 and break it with a fork--a wooden salade-fork is best4 ,then drop some oil on1 drop by drop at starting1 and at the same time beat it up lightly but quickly with the fork4 ,do not1 pray1 get impatient1 and put too much oil in at once4 ,continue slowly till the yolk of egg and oil begin to look like yellowish cream4 ,when it once begins to get thick1 you may slightly increase the dose of oil1 or let the drops fall more quickly4 ,continue the process till the sauce assumes the appearance of railway grease4 ,this is rather a nasty simile2 but then it is so exactly like it1 that it conveys a correct idea4 ,you may now add a little white vinegar4 ,now1 as the vinegar has the effect of making the sauce thinner--and the thicker the sauce is1 the nicer it looks--this must be added with caution4 ,a small bottle of dilute acetic acid1 purchased from some good chemist1 will be found best for the purpose1 and is what ,i have always used myself1 it being simply strong vinegar1 about eight times stronger than ordinary2 and1 consequently1 one-eighth of the quantity will answer the same purpose4 ,half a salt-spoonful will be found sufficient1 and will not have the effect of thinning the sauce4 ,next1 with a silver knife1 or ivory paper-knife1 spread the sauce over the lobster1 till the whole dish1 with the exception of where the green salade shows round the edge1 has the appearance of a mould of solid custard4 ,now to ornament it4 ,first pick out about a dozen of the brightest-looking capers1 and stick them lightly over the sauce4 ,they will stick easily without being in the least pushed in4 ,next pick out about a dozen and a half pieces of the chopped parsley1 each piece about the size of a pin's head1 and drop these over it to give it a slight speckled appearance4 ,next take the beetroot1 which of course is supposed to have been boiled and got cold1 and cut it into small strips about an inch long1 and as thick as a wooden lucifer match split into four1 and with these strips form a trellis-work of beetroot round the edge of the salade where the sauce joins the lettuce1 so that the bottom of each strip just touches the lettuce1 but the strip itself rests on the sauce4 ,the contrast between the red trellis and the white sauce has a very pretty effect4 ,next cut the egg into quarters lengthways1 and place the pieces round the edge at equal distances1 and put the olives and anchovies at equal distances between them2 and also arrange the small claws of the lobster1 bent at the joint1 around the border4 ,by this means nearly all of the green salade is hidden1 and the effect of the dish is exceedingly pretty4 ,the remainder of the chopped parsley and capers may also be placed round the edge1 as when the dish is mixed up it will help to improve the flavour4 ,there is one thing more1 however1 that may make the dish look still prettier1 and that is a little lobster-spawn4 ,if the lobster contained any spawn1 take a small piece and cut it up into little pieces the size of a pin's head1 or a little bigger--a dozen and a half pieces will be sufficient--and sprinkle these over the sauce alternately with the little green pieces of parsley4 ,it has been described how to make a nice-looking little lobster salade mayonnaise for about four persons4 ,when1 however1 a considerably larger dish1 and several of them1 are required1 such as for a wedding breakfast or ball supper1 you should get by way of garnish a few little crayfish or prawns4 ,a small crayfish placed in the corner of each dish1 with its claws out-stretched resting on the mayonnaise sauce1 looks very pretty4 ,if1 too1 the dish is of a considerable size1 a small one may be lightly placed on the top as an ornament4 ,now1 we have described one way of ornamenting a lobster salade1 but1 of course1 this is only one out of an infinite number of methods4 ,nor do we maintain that this is by any means the prettiest method2 but we have given it as one of the simplest4 ,for instance1 mayonnaise sauce can be coloured red by mixing up some lobster butter with it1 or green1 by means of parsley-juice4 ,plovers' eggs1 too1 when they can be obtained1 form a very pretty garnish4 ,leaves or flowers can be cut out of beetroot with a stamp1 and be used by way of ornament4 ,the long1 thin tendons of the lobster can be arranged1 too1 to stick upright out of the centre1 but they should be put in before the mayonnaise sauce is placed on the lobster4 ,perhaps a few explanations of why the salade was prepared in the order named may not be out of place4 ,it will be observed that the anchovies1 capers1 c41 were got ready early1 but the beetroot was not cut up till long afterwards2 the reason of this is1 fresh-cut beetroot looks a bright red1 but after some hours1 if it gets stale1 it has a sort of withered look1 and turns a dirty reddish-brown colour2 so too1 with the egg3 never cut open a hard-boiled egg until it is nearly time to use it1 as the egg dries up1 and the yellow yolk looks dark and separates from the white4 ,the capers1 too1 were dried1 as if dropped on to the spread-out sauce wet they would spoil its appearance4 ,lastly1 do not be disappointed if you do not succeed in getting the sauce thick the first time2 and do not be afraid of the oil4 ,one yolk of an egg will use up nearly a tea-cupful of oil4 ,it requires a peculiar quick movement of the wrist1 and1 like whipping cream into a froth1 it is not always learnt in a day4 ,we fear that among the ,mary ,ann class1 there are some heavy-fisted women who would never learn it at all4 ,the dish1 however1 is well worth the trial1 and if you can get one person to do the sauce and another to ornament the dish1 all the better1 as the exertion of making the sauce has often the effect of making the hand shake so much that it is incapable of arranging the beetroot1 c41 with any degree of nicety4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,vi4--,,breakfast ,,dishes4 ,there are1 perhaps1 few meals that in this country vary more than breakfasts2 and1 indeed1 it is not possible to draw any exact line between the hospitable and heavy ,yorkshire breakfasts1 including the huge game pie1 and draughts of home-brewed strong ale at its finish1 and the feeble breakfast consisting of thin dry toast and cup of tea1 which with many is the limit of nourishment they can take early in the day4 ,there can1 however1 be no doubt that a good breakfast is very conducive to good health4 ,there are1 too1 perhaps1 few meals at which the appetite is more capricious than breakfast1 and few occasions on which more depends upon appearances4 ,a nicely-laid breakfast-table1 with its snow-white cloth1 crisp brown loaves1 bright silver1 neatly-patted butter1 looking doubly tempting by contrast with the rich dark-green parsley with which it is ornamented2 the juicy joint and tempting ham upon the sideboard2 the rich1 fragrant smell of the coffee--in itself sufficient to create an appetite4 ,but let us wait till the door opens1 and the rattle of the silver covers is heard4 ,first1 say1 a fowl done spread-eagle fashion1 with mushrooms2 next1 some curried sausages2 next1 some mutton cutlets1 with mixed hot pickles in the centre2 while in another dish some poached eggs sleep peacefully on slices of rich juicy ham that have just left the gridiron4 ,all these are placed on the table1 while some grilled salmon1 with which the breakfast begins1 is handed round3 many preferring hot muffins in lieu of bread as an accompaniment4 ,but we must not forget the tankard1 with the college arms emblazoned on its side1 full of good buttery ale2 for1 as many probably have already guessed1 it is a college breakfast we are describing2 and ,paterfamilias1 when he shakes his head over the college bills1 will do well to excuse a little of the extravagance of youth which breaks out in the form of breakfasts rather than suppers1 the latter being conducive too often to the former consisting simply of a red herring and a brandy-and-soda4 ,with a dozen or more healthy young men seated round the table1 free from the cares of life1 indifferent to1 and indeed ignorant even of1 the meaning of the 8money article10 no wonder the tempting viands cooked by cunning hands rapidly disappear amid a merry conversation1 in which the summum bonum of earthly happiness seems to be to row in the ,university ,eight4 ,but we must wait a few years4 ,the bright-eyed youth with the fluffy whiskers1 who performed such prodigies of valour in the last town and gown1 has settled down into the sleek-looking country clergyman or lawyer2 and his pretty1 quiet little wife probably never dreams even of the life he led in the boisterous1 but for all that really innocent1 days of his college life4 ,the college breakfasts and the college hall have1 however1 had their effect1 and the change from the 8college professor of cookery0 7who probably is far better off than the tutor to ,mary ,ann7 is--well1 a change4 ,the unvarying cold boiled bacon and hot boiled eggs will1 in spite of the bright silver tea-pot1 the butter-dish with the silver cow on the top1 the lavish display of butter-knives 7all wedding presents1 of course71 after a time pall upon the strongest appetite2 but1 unfortunately1 if ,mary ,ann breaks down in one thing more than another1 it is over the breakfast4 ,there is an indescribable something in the appearance of the breakfast dishes she sends up that is not conducive to appetite4 ,the yolks of egg have a tendency to run into the whites1 and the fried bacon always seems as if it had been up the chimney1 or under the grate1 as well as in the frying-pan4 ,an omelette is a hopeless impossibility1 kidneys turn out tough1 sausages come up burnt in one place and burst out like old boots in another1 and when eaten1 the bread-crumbs overpower the pork4 ,after a series of failures1 people settle down into the cold bacon and boiled eggs2 what little change they do have consisting of potted meat1 the most delicate palate being unable to distinguish between potted ham1 potted beef1 potted tongue1 and potted game2 for if there is one thing in the world of which the pieman's remark of 8,it's the flavouring as does it0 holds true1 it is of these shilling pots of potted meat4 ,that breakfasts will occasionally go wrong1 is probably everybody's experience2 to show how to make them always go right is not so easy4 ,one great cause1 in addition to ignorance of cooking1 is late rising4 ,cooks sometimes start the day an hour behindhand1 and never overtake the time4 ,i am not sure that in judging a cook's character ,i would not take her as she appears in the morning coming down to light the kitchen fire4 ,some will be seen at this period fresh1 clean1 and bright-looking4 ,this is a good sign1 and augurs well4 ,others1 however1 come down yawning--no cap1 the hair in an eccentric fashion1 consisting apparently of one large knot at the back of the head4 ,they have a fluffy and disagreeable look1 suggestive of having slept in their clothes in a close room1 the window of which has not been opened for months1 and in which you would expect to find an inky fluid render itself visible in the wash-hand basin1 were you to blow away the soapsuds4 ,all this augurs ill for breakfast4 ,however1 we will suppose the former of the two servants has come down1 and that the dish for breakfast is the very common one of ham and eggs4 ,first1 the ham1 which is probably in a slice or slices already4 ,the first point to be considered is the state of the frying-pan2 this latter should be perfectly clean before the ham is placed in it4 ,next1 cook the ham rather slowly2 with ham1 poached eggs look better1 and to my thinking taste better1 than fried4 ,have a stew-pan ready full of water gently boiling1 and drop in this water four or five drops of vinegar4 ,have a dish ready in the oven2 and as soon as the ham is nearly done1 take the eggs1 which should have been carefully broken each one separately in a cup1 and let them slide out slowly into the boiling water1 doing two at a time2 as soon as the eggs are in the water1 place the ham on the hot dish1 and so place it that an egg will stand on each slice4 ,next1 take the strainer and lift each egg carefully out of the water1 and have in your other hand a knife ready to trim off the loose pieces of white1 so as to have the egg a compact mass1 the yolk surrounded by an even rim of white4 ,next1 should a little of the water rest in the bend of the strainer1 mop it up with the end of a cloth before you slide the egg on to the ham1 or otherwise1 owing to the vinegar1 the egg will taste acid4 ,after the eggs are on the ham1 see that all is placed uniformly in the middle of the dish1 put two or three pieces of fresh parsley round1 and send the dish up to table as quickly as possible4 ,in cooking eggs and bacon1 fried eggs are best4 ,have1 as before1 the eggs ready in a cup1 each in a separate cup4 ,as soon as the bacon is cooked1 place it on the dish1 and put it in front of the fire4 ,then slide the eggs into the frying-pan with the boiling bacon-fat4 ,do this slowly and carefully1 the chief point being not to break the yolks4 ,it is a mistake to have too much fat1 as that seems to increase those large bubbles that form themselves under the white4 ,take care1 also1 not to have the fire too fierce1 or the egg will get burnt at the bottom4 ,in taking out the eggs with the strainer use the left hand2 and1 if the white has spread itself too much round1 or very unevenly1 trim the white so as to have the yolk as much as possible in the centre4 ,a knife will do for this purpose1 but better still an old pair of easy-going scissors4 ,place these on the bacon1 and look carefully over the dish1 and wipe up with a cloth any appearance of 8blacks0 having mingled with the fat that has run off from the bacon1 as this black grease1 though perfectly wholesome1 is disagreeable to the eye1 and through the eye affects the palate4 ,we will next take another dish1 cheap and nice--viz41 bloaters4 ,the objection to bloaters is the smell4 ,if the cook has a private bloater for breakfast1 the bloater himself informs you of the fact before you leave your bed4 ,now1 bloaters cooked as they generally are--viz41 whole--send forth a gust of extra flavour on being opened in the room4 ,the best method of cooking them1 therefore1 is as follows3--,first1 shut the kitchen door2 secondly1 take off the heads1 and split the bloaters open like a haddock4 ,have a perfectly clear fire1 and having rubbed the gridiron with a piece of mutton-fat1 place the bloater on it and grill it2 four or five minutes will be ample time4 ,when done1 take a piece of butter1 and after placing the bloater on a dish1 with the skin-side downwards1 rub the butter over the upper side of the bloater1 and thus take off the dry appearance1 and make it look moist4 ,bloaters cooked and sent to table this way are not nearly so disagreeable as in the ordinary way4 ,indeed1 bloaters done this way often end up a bachelor's dinner-party at a club4 ,let us trust the claret is good4 ,the only way ,i know of getting good sausages for breakfast is making them at home4 ,a sausage-machine soon repays itself1 and is useful for many purposes besides making sausages1 such as forcemeat1 rissoles1 c4 ,the great advantage in making sausages at home is1 first and principally1 that you know what is in them2 secondly1 that you can flavour them to suit your taste4 ,some persons like sausages highly flavoured1 some not4 ,i will give you a recipe for sausages that ,i like myself1 and would recommend you1 if you like highly-seasoned sausages1 to increase first the quantity of marjoram1 secondly1 the quantity of sage1 and see which flavour you prefer4 ,i would1 however1 warn you against increasing the quantity of lemon1 as the result will probably be that you will taste the sausages not merely with your breakfast1 but with your lunch and even your dinner1 in a way better imagined than described4 ,the ingredients are as follows3--,one pound of lean pork and half a pound of fat pork1 or rather less2 one tea-spoonful of salt1 half a tea-spoonful of pepper1 half a tea-spoonful of dried marjoram1 one-third of a small nutmeg1 the sixth part of the rind of a lemon1 three good-sized sage-leaves4 ,first1 of course1 take care that the pork is perfectly fresh2 mince the lemon separately1 as fine as possible1 and mix it up with the other ingredients1 having minced or powdered the sage-leaves4 ,cut up the pork into little pieces1 and having mixed all up together in a basin1 pass the whole through a sausage-machine1 taking care to send the part that comes out first through the machine a second time4 ,roll the sausage-meat into small balls--the quantity ,i have named would make quite sixteen--and fry these balls in a frying-pan1 and send them to table on little square pieces of toast4 ,the toast can be dipped in the fat that runs out of the sausage-meat into the frying-pan4 ,kidneys make a nice breakfast dish1 especially when sent to table in company with a little fried bacon4 ,the general fault is that they are overcooked1 and consequently hard1 tasteless1 and indigestible4 ,some persons like kidneys absolutely blue inside when they are cut4 ,this is1 perhaps1 going a little too far2 they should1 however1 always be cooked so that when placed on the dish some red gravy runs out4 ,a good-sized kidney is best cooked split open on the gridiron1 and as soon as it is done1 placed on its round sides1 and a little piece of butter put on each half1 on to which a pinch of chopped parsley is dropped4 ,sometimes kidneys are sent up skewered on a little silver arrow4 ,a little pepper should always be sprinkled over kidneys while they are cooking4 ,the best form of having fish for breakfast is1 undoubtedly1 plain grilled4 ,when those very small soles called dabs can be obtained1 the best method of cooking them is simply to dry them1 flour them1 and then cook them over a clear fire on a gridiron--rubbed1 of course1 with a piece of fat to prevent the fish from sticking4 ,fish sent up this way should be put on an ornamental piece of white paper4 ,the fish1 also1 should show the marks of the gridiron in light-brown streaks4 ,a little pepper and salt should be sprinkled on them before sending to table1 and a piece of cut lemon can also be sent up with the fish for those who like lemon4 ,there are very many dishes ,i could mention that are suitable for breakfast2 but one word to those--and many such exist--who consider hot breakfast extravagant3 the only dish of which they approve being eggs eaten with bread-and-butter4 ,i would first remind them that the eggs and the butter in the shape of an omelette would be just the same1 as far as expense goes2 but ,i would protest against the custom of the day of young men eating1 comparatively speaking1 no breakfast1 but taking a heavy meat meal in the middle of the day1 about one or two o'clock1 and then going back to work4 ,a look into the ,city dining-rooms in the middle of the day shows to how great an extent this practice is carried1 and also suggests how very unintellectual the greater part of ,city work must be4 ,to really work with the brains immediately after an early dinner is1 if not impossible1 at any rate very injurious4 ,probably the seeds of chronic dyspepsia are sown by this unwise habit4 ,what men should do is to eat a good hearty breakfast2 take a light lunch1 say a few biscuits1 or at the outside a piece of bread-and-cheese and a glass of ale1 if this latter has not the effect of incapacitating them for work2 and then to make a good dinner at six or seven o'clock1 or later1 as the case may be4 ,there is one thing in connection with breakfast that should not be omitted to be mentioned1 and that is coffee4 ,how it is that1 as a rule1 good coffee can no more be obtained in ,england than tea in ,france1 is difficult to say4 ,one great secret1 however1 of ,french coffee is that it is always not only fresh ground1 but fresh-roasted4 ,i would therefore briefly advise you1 in reference to coffee1 first to buy it in the nibs1 and grind it yourself2 secondly1 never to grind it till just before you want it2 thirdly1 before grinding it heat the coffee in the oven for a few minutes--this latter having the effect of bringing out the flavour2 lastly1 do not grudge the coffee4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,vii4--,,how ,,to ,,give ,a ,,nice ,,little ,,dinner4 ,however strange may appear the statement1 yet we have no hesitation in saying that one of the greatest steps ever made in economy in giving dinner-parties was the introduction into this country of the dinner la ,russe4 ,it will be our endeavour in the present article both to prove and illustrate this point by contrasting a small dinner-party of thirty or forty years ago with a modern one4 ,as we have already remarked1 our observations are intended to apply to those whose status in society may be best described as possessing neither poverty nor riches4 ,we will suppose the number of persons at dinner to be about ten or a dozen4 ,my mind now goes back to some people ,i knew very well in my younger days1 and who will make admirable representatives of a very large portion of the backbone of ,english society3 exceedingly kind1 generous1 and hospitable1 but whose ideas of cooking contained a strong element of contempt for what they called--recollect1 ,i am speaking of thirty years ago--,french messes4 ,the time is soon after ,christmas1 and the party a family one4 ,the boys of the party1 in their large white collars outside their jackets1 look flushed and happy1 and may be seen furtively looking from time to time at a bright yellow coin1 which they keep in their waistcoat pockets--the coin in question being a recent 8tip0 in the shape of a ,christmas-box from the stout and hospitable host4 ,but dinner is announced1 and we soon find ourselves seated round a large table that may almost be said literally to groan with the weight of the good things placed on it4 ,first1 some good mock-turtle soup--no doubt about it being a jelly when cold--a sort of soup that1 in the present day of beards and moustachios1 would require some care in taking4 ,next the cover is taken off a huge cod-fish1 big enough to have swallowed ,jonah himself when he was a little boy1 handed round with which was some oyster sauce as it should be1 containing oysters in numbers4 ,ah6 the very memory of it makes us heave a deep sigh4 ,good oysters could then be obtained at four-pence a dozen1 and now--three shillings a dozen4 ,the present ,chancellor of the ,exchequer might well bring in a poll-tax on the men who eat oysters4 ,next the four entres were uncovered1 and the silver lids taken out of the room1 for the handles to be unscrewed1 the dishes wiped1 rubbed with a leather for a minute1 and then they made four new silver dishes for the sweets4 ,the entres were as follows3--,oyster patties1 curried rabbit1 stewed kidneys1 and what used to be called a beef olive--which consisted of a steak rolled with veal stuffing1 and some very thick brown gravy poured over it4 ,after all these had been partially consumed1 the covers were taken off what is termed the pice de rsistance1 which consisted of a huge sirloin of beef1 looking somewhat like the host himself1 fat and jolly1 with scraped horseradish instead of grey hair2 or perhaps a fine haunch of mutton1 with a paper frill round its wrist1 something like a lady's cuff4 ,at the other end of the table were generally two large capons1 with a boiled tongue between them2 beside which1 two side-dishes1 the one a pigeon pie1 and the other a small ,york ham4 ,we will not go on to describe the second course4 ,as a rule1 lady housekeepers have no difficulty in superintending this part of the dinner4 ,there are hundreds and thousands of ladies who can make a splendid dish of trifle or a mould of jelly1 who would not have the slightest idea of gravy4 ,it was but yesterday ,i was dining out where the gravy was handed round1 which looked and tasted like pale1 weak beef-tea1 which in truth it was4 ,at other places1 too1 cooks seem to think that when gravy is required1 all they have to do is to put a little of the soup in the sauce-tureen1 and send it up4 ,we would inform them that soup and gravy are two distinct things4 ,perhaps at some future period we may have a whole article on gravy1 for gravy is a very weak point with inexperienced cooks4 ,but to return to the dinner above-mentioned4 ,we do not for one moment wish it to be understood that we complain of it4 ,it is a sort of dinner that makes people1 when they come home late in the evening1 at any rate feel they have dined1 and do not1 as is too often the case after some of those large dinners where fruit1 flowers1 and ice abound1 on their arrival want a sandwich and glass of sherry or brandy and soda before going to bed4 ,what we do maintain is that it is exceedingly expensive1 and that a handsome little dinner la ,russe can be served up for less than half the money4 ,one strange thing in connection with the subject is that when the la ,russe style was first introduced into this country1 nearly all those persons who may be described generally as homely people1 who make a point of always keeping well in the wake of fashion rather than the van1 we say those persons had an idea that the new style was very elegant1 but that they could not afford it4 ,we believe that there is still an impression abroad that a dinner la ,russe must necessarily be a very expensive affair2 we will therefore proceed to describe a cheap but nice-looking little dinner1 and1 if space permit1 how to make the dishes4 ,in the first place1 flowers1 like ,mrs4 ,scratchit's ribbons1 make a great show for sixpence4 ,where there is a good garden1 there ought to be no difficulty in making a dinner-table look nice4 ,all that is required is a little taste4 ,it is well to bear in mind1 however1 that in selecting flowers1 dark-green leaves and the colour blue or violet should not be forgotten4 ,we will suppose1 therefore1 the table arranged3 the dessert and plenty of flowers1 and nothing else1 for we do not believe in the modern compromise so often seen--i4e41 some dishes placed on the table1 as well as the dessert4 ,now for the dinner4 ,first--say the time of the year be the present--,julienne soup1 bright as sherry1 with just a taste of tarragon in it2 a turbot or brill1 with lobster sauce2 a dish of chicken cutlets1 white as snow1 with little small green and red leaves in the centre of each1 about half an inch long1 and a little red lobster-claw representing the bone1 served in a silver dish1 with aspic jelly piled up in the centre4 ,another entre of eggs and spinach--always a pretty-looking dish--some lobster cutlets1 and some rissoles4 ,next a haunch of mutton--i4e41 a small roast leg of mutton cut outside the room haunch-fashion1 parallel with the bone--and red-currant jelly handed with it4 ,in small households1 where a large quantity of cold meat is undesirable1 this is far preferable to a large haunch1 and of course it is exactly the same thing1 so far as taste and appearance are concerned1 when cut4 ,next1 by way of game1 have some roast larks1 served up in little paper cups containing a rich forcemeat4 ,only one fowl1 and that a moderate-sized one1 will be necessary to make both the chicken cutlets and the rissoles4 ,we will now calculate roughly the saving in this dinner when compared with the old-fashioned one we have mentioned4 ,in the first place1 ,julienne soup can be made far cheaper than mock-turtle2 but we will leave the question of the cost of the soup out altogether4 ,next the fish2 here again the saving only consists in the fact that it is possible to have a small fish when it is not put on the table1 but impossible to have only just enough when it is4 ,now1 warmed-up fish is never nice1 yet how often do we see a splendid turbot or cod-fish go down1 not a quarter of it eaten6 ,a cod-fish1 by-the-by1 is not a particularly easy dish for a cook to serve properly done and yet looking really nice4 ,i shall never forget the look of dismay on a certain face when the cover was taken off a remarkably fine cod that had been specially sent down from a famous ,city fishmonger4 ,the cook1 too1 was really a good one1 and knew that raw cod-fish is simply uneatable4 ,probably the man1 in bringing up the fish1 had shaken the dish somewhat roughly1 or set it down on the table with too much of a bang4 ,however1 the whole of the meat had fallen from the bones in a sort of shower on to the dish1 and the gaunt skeleton remained alone1 an awful sight1 like some of those pictures of the desert with the remains of a camel being hovered over by one or two vultures4 ,in fact1 it looked so exceedingly ridiculous that nearly every one laughed1 in which laughter the host wisely joined4 ,it was indeed a pretty kettle of fish6 ,it is1 however1 in the entres and joints where the great saving will be found4 ,first let us roughly guess the cost of the old dinner3 ,sirloin of beef1 or haunch1 about #adlb41 #ads41 taking of course present prices2 two capons1 #ajs42 tongue1 #fs4 #f;d42 small ham1 #abs42 pigeon pie1 say #cs4 #f;d41 which would be cheap2 oyster patties1 eight at #f;d4 each1 #ds42 beef olive1 #blb4 of steak1 c41 #bs4 #f;d42 curried rabbit1 the rabbit being #as4 #f;d41 #bs42 stewed kidneys1 say #as4 #f;d4 ,now this all added up comes to #b #afs4 ,next let us take the other dinner3 ,one fowl1 #cs4 #f;d42 mushrooms1 one tin1 #i;d42 cream1 #c;d42 lobster1 #bs42 eggs and spinach1 #as2 leg of mutton1 #hlb41 #hs42 calf's liver for forcemeat1 #c;d42 larks1 one dozen1 #as4 #f;d42 about #alb4 of ham or bacon1 #as4 #f;d42 which1 added up1 comes to #ags4 #i;d4 ,of course it will be said that in the first dinner there was plenty left to keep the house for several days1 and in the second but very little4 ,this is perfectly true2 but it is this of which ,i complain4 ,the old-fashioned style was1 when ten people came to dinner1 to cook enough for thirty4 ,this seems to me to be folly4 ,of course some allowance must be made for the character of the visitors2 the little dinner la ,russe we have mentioned would be exceedingly unsuited to hungry schoolboys1 or an agricultural labourers' feast2 but then one doesn't ask these sorts of people to late dinners4 ,the average guest is one who has had a substantial lunch--in the case of ladies--or one whose appetite is jaded with worry and anxiety1 and requires a certain amount of tickling4 ,the same dinner would not do for a dealer on the ,stock ,exchange1 and a healthy country gentleman1 who spends half his time on horseback1 and has not a care in the world4 ,we mention this1 as one of the arts of giving dinners is to adapt the dinner to the guests1 and the guests to one another4 ,but we must now turn to the practical part1 which is1 how to make the chicken cutlets1 c4 ,first1 early on the morning previous to the dinner1 boil the fowl in some clear stock or some water2 take it out and let it get cold2 cut off all the meat1 cutting the breast into thin slices2 scrape all the bones1 and place the latter back in the stock to boil down4 ,if water has been used1 the usual vegetables must be placed in--viz41 an onion stuck with six cloves1 a small head of celery1 a turnip1 carrot1 a bunch of parsley1 and pepper and salt4 ,when the whole is reduced to about a quart1 strain it carefully off2 remove every particle of fat1 and if not clear1 clear it with the white of two eggs1 by whipping them up with a little cold water1 adding them to the stock1 boiling briskly for a few minutes1 and then running the whole through a jelly-bag4 ,next1 again place the stock in an enamelled saucepan1 and let it boil down to about a pint4 ,take a third of this and put it into a little enamelled stew-pan for the aspic jelly4 ,now1 this jelly requires rather a decided flavour2 add therefore a couple of beads of garlic1 and let these simmer sufficiently long to give the stock--one-third of a pint--what may be called a foreign smell4 ,the fowl-bones will probably have been sufficient to cause this to set into a firm jelly when poured out on to a plate and allowed to get cold2 should1 however1 it not be firm enough1 a little gelatine must be added to it4 ,should the jelly require a little colour1 a small piece of toasted bread1 such as is used for toast-and-water1 will be found best for the purpose--of course put in when the jelly is hot4 ,when the jelly is set1 it must be cut up--two silver forks are best for the purpose--and piled up in the centre of the silver dish1 for the chicken cutlets to be placed round it4 ,next we have two-thirds of a pint of strong stock left in the saucepan4 ,add to this about half an ounce of gelatine and a couple of bay-leaves1 and let it boil till the gelatine is quite dissolved2 take out the bay-leaves1 and pour it off into a basin1 and take off any little scum that may have risen from the gelatine4 ,next pour some cream--about half a tumbler--into an enamelled saucepan2 as soon as it begins to boil1 pour the warm stock on it1 take it off the fire1 stir with a spoon for a few minutes1 and pour it into a small basin for use4 ,now this white sauce1 which is exceedingly nice1 when cold will be a hard jelly1 looking like blancmange4 ,next take the slices of chicken and a few thin slices of ham1 pour a little of the white sauce on to a plate1 and before it has time to cool1 cover the plate with very thin slices of chicken2 dip the ham into the stock1 and spread it over the chicken1 again covering the ham with some more thin slices of chicken4 ,cover the whole1 by means of a spoon1 with some more white sauce1 taking care to leave a little sauce for use afterwards4 ,now when all this sets1 which it will do very quickly1 it becomes like a large white cake1 barely half an inch thick4 ,cut this white cake into little oval pieces1 the size and shape of the lobster cutlets1 with a sharp penknife2 take up each cutlet carefully1 and with a small spoon1 or end of a silver knife1 cover the edges with the white sauce1 which must be nearly set4 ,next cut some tiny green leaves out of some pickled gherkins1 and some red leaves out of some beetroot1 or the red skin of a chilli1 and place four little leaves1 two of each in the centre of each cutlet1 star-shaped2 a drop of white sauce will make it stick4 ,place a little piece of parsley1 not much bigger than a pin's head1 in the centre of the star2 stick a little lobster-claw1 three-quarters of an inch long1 in each cutlet1 and place them in a silver dish1 round the aspic jelly1 with a small piece of fresh1 bright-green parsley between each cutlet1 by way of garnish2 and few prettier dishes can be handed round than the one in question4 ,the dish is somewhat troublesome1 but then its appearance repays the trouble1 besides which it does not require much standing over the fire4 ,the latter part can be done sitting down4 ,the basin containing the white sauce can be placed in a larger basin containing hot water1 to prevent it setting too soon4 ,instead of beetroot1 a thin leaf of truffle looks much better1 in which case a red bead of lobster-coral should be placed in the centre of the star1 instead of the parsley4 ,however1 recommending truffle is rather useless1 for the simple reason that persons rich enough to use them generally keep a cook1 to whom these instructions would be unnecessary4 ,the next point is the rissoles4 ,take all the remains of the fowl--i4e41 about half--taking great care that no pieces of bone or skin remain1 and chop it up with half the tin of mushrooms1 and a good slice of fat ham4 ,chop up separately1 very finely1 a piece of onion about as big as the top of the finger down to the first joint2 sufficient parsley1 when chopped1 to fill a tea-spoon2 enough thyme to cover a sixpence2 add a little cayenne pepper and salt4 ,mix the whole well together1 and if a sausage-machine is in the house1 of course run it through it2 but if not1 some pains and time must be spent over the chopping4 ,roll it up into small balls1 dip them first into some well-beaten-up egg1 and then into some fine bread-crumbs1 and fry2 and serve with some gravy poured round1 exactly as the mutton cutlets were done in the previous article1 though of course these rissoles are far superior to those made from mutton4 ,next with regard to the forcemeat for the paper cases for the larks4 ,these paper cases can be bought at the pastrycook's1 but they are easily made at home1 much cheaper1 out of stiff note-paper4 ,take a quarter of a pound of calf's liver1 cut it up into small pieces1 and fry in about the same quantity of rather fat ham4 ,chop up finely a bead of garlic1 a piece of lemon-peel the size of the first finger-nail1 a tea-spoonful of parsley1 and the remaining half of the tin of mushrooms2 add a little cayenne pepper and some salt1 and enough aromatic mixed herbs to cover a sixpence 7these herbs are composed of white peppercorns1 cloves1 one portion2 marjoram1 basil1 thyme1 nutmeg1 mace1 half a portion2 dried bay-leaves1 a quarter of a portion2 well pounded and sifted1 and put by in a stoppered bottle for use74 ,chop the whole very finely1 and put it by in a small stew-pan to keep hot till wanted4 ,place a dessert-spoonful of this rich forcemeat at the bottom of each paper case4 ,the paper cases should have the chill taken off them1 by being placed before the fire for a minute4 ,then place a small roast lark on the top of each case4 ,larks take only about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour to roast1 according to their size1 and ought to be eaten directly they are cooked4 ,the cases should be placed in a silver dish1 with parsley between them4 ,this is a very savoury dish1 and at the same time a very cheap substitute for game for a dozen people4 ,should there be no mixed herbs ready1 a little nutmeg and mace will be found to flavour the forcemeat sufficiently for ordinary purposes4 ,of course1 in comparing the above two dinners1 we have purposely taken rather extreme cases4 ,what we would impress upon housekeepers is that many of these pretty1 savoury little dishes1 though they may give considerable trouble1 are nevertheless very cheap4 ,by simply looking ahead for a day or two1 and a little industry on the part of others in the house than the cook only1 a dinner often may be given combining elegance with strict economy4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,viii4--,,how ,,to ,,give ,a ,,nice ,,little ,,supper4 ,the ,christmas season is essentially one for parties--,christmas parties--those happy gatherings where old and young meet together for mutual enjoyment1 and where the presence of children forms an excuse for grown-up people to enjoy a round game1 or look on at feats of legerdemain with as much enjoyment as a middle-aged1 grave-faced ,frenchman feels when going slowly round on horseback on a roundabout4 ,perhaps if we were all of us at times more childlike we should be none the worse for it1 especially in this high-strung1 tear-away age4 ,but ,i must leave off moralising1 or else you1 like the children at the party1 will be thinking what a long time they are about the supper1 which1 after all1 is the event of the evening4 ,as we have said1 the party is a mixed one1 and therefore we must manage our supper on the principle of meat for strong men1 as well as milk for babes4 ,judging by my own experience1 there are few occasions on which ,i have felt more decidedly hungry than after a ,christmas party4 ,really1 to see some good-tempered persons hard at work amusing children1 after perhaps having had a hurried early dinner1 is quite enough to arouse pity4 ,they have indeed earned their supper4 ,there are1 perhaps1 few opportunities for exercising taste better than a cold supper1 where every dish is placed on the table at once4 ,it would1 however1 be impossible to enter into the detail of the arrangements of the table without knowing with tolerable accuracy the resources of the establishment4 ,for instance1 where there are plenty of silver dishes1 as well as cut-glass ones1 to arrange a table handsomely would be far easier than where there are neither4 ,i would1 however1 give a few general directions4 ,have some flowers--real ones1 if possible--and also mix plenty of green leaves with them4 ,try and alternate the dishes in colour4 ,for instance1 do not place a white mould of blancmange next to a dish of custard or a mayonnaise salad4 ,again1 do not overcrowd the table4 ,we will go through a variety of dishes suitable for supper1 explaining1 where necessary1 how they should be made1 and also giving hints as to how they may be improved in appearance4 ,first1 a very good dish is a cold roast turkey1 glazed4 ,what a difference1 however1 in appearance between one that has been glazed and one that has not6 ,did you ever notice a plank of mahogany just fresh planed1 and contrast it with the well-polished flap of a ,spanish mahogany dining-room table8 ,now there is almost as much difference between cold tongue1 or turkey1 or fowl1 or pheasant unglazed and glazed1 as there is between a mahogany plank unpolished and polished4 ,i will not enter here into an elaborate description of the proper method of making glaze1 beyond describing it as good rich stock1 boiled down till it has the appearance of strong liquid glue4 ,in making glaze1 great care should be taken so as not to allow it to remain too long on the fire4 ,as soon as the stock begins to turn colour1 remove the stock-pot from the fire1 and quickly slacken the heat1 otherwise the contents will get burnt1 and much of the flavour destroyed1 especially if the glaze be intended for the purpose of making either soup or gravy4 ,the simplest method of obtaining glaze is to buy it ready-made--it is sold in skins--only take care to get it at a thoroughly respectable shop4 ,now1 to glaze a turkey is so very similar to varnishing one1 that perhaps the easiest method of describing the operation is to say3--,melt some of the glaze in a little basin1 and add1 if you like1 a very little water to it4 ,then take a fairly stiff brush and paint the turkey all over1 drumsticks and all1 making the breast particularly shiny4 ,you will now see how very much the turkey has improved in appearance4 ,it has1 in fact1 a rich mahogany look4 ,if you are glazing1 say1 a couple of fowls1 the principle is just the same4 ,you will see the difference directly4 ,by doing one first1 and then comparing the two1 you will understand the meaning of the simile ,i have given in reference to the mahogany4 ,next1 take some nice fresh bright-green double parsley1 and fit some into all the hollow places you may observe about the turkey1 of course trying as much as possible to make each side look alike4 ,place the turkey on a good-sized clean dish1 and garnish it with some more parsley and cut lemon4 ,i will try and describe1 as some may not know how1 the best method of cutting lemon for garnish4 ,cut a lemon in half the ordinary way1 and then with a sharp knife cut off a thin slice1 which is of course a complete circle1 the centre being white1 and the circumference a thin rim of yellow peel4 ,cut this in half again1 thereby leaving you two semicircles4 ,next cut the semicircular rim--only the rim1 or peel1 or circumference1 whichever you like to call it--through with a knife1 and pull the two quarters of circles open with your fingers1 till they stand exactly opposite each other4 ,the hard white part of the lemon in the middle is quite sufficient to keep them together1 if no violence is used4 ,when ,i say pull them open1 ,i mean only so far as1 were another piece exactly like it placed over it crossways1 they would again form a round slice of lemon4 ,now1 a lemon cut up in this way makes a very pretty garnish for various dishes1 besides cold game and poultry--as1 for instance1 a boiled fish1 such as a turbot1 on which has been sprinkled some lobster-coral1 surrounded with lemon cut in this manner1 alternately with a little parsley and a few little crayfish1 looks far different to what it would plain4 ,just so with our turkey4 ,there is one more thing to set it off1 and that is1 if possible1 get a fine1 small1 white camellia1 just tinged here and there with pink4 ,now1 as camellias are not easily obtainable1 and even if there be a few in the greenhouse1 they would probably be coveted on such occasions as that we are speaking about for the purpose of adorning far more beautiful creatures than turkeys1 your best plan will be to make a camellia4 ,how1 you will ask1 can this be done8 ,very simply4 ,cut it out of a turnip with a penknife4 ,it really is not nearly so difficult as you would imagine4 ,take a sharp knife and a little scoop1 and try and see how near you can get to making it resemble a flower4 ,then stick a little piece of wood into it1 and tie on two or three bay-leaves4 ,take the feather-end of a quill pen1 and dip it into the cochineal bottle1 and just tint the edges only4 ,i have no doubt but that these directions will be followed by several young ladies with a taste for drawing4 ,i should feel much obliged if they would write and tell if their first attempt was successful4 ,if you want to see these cut flowers in perfection1 take a walk down ,covent-,garden ,market1 where1 if you choose to pay for it1 you can receive lessons in artificial vegetable-flower making4 ,next stick our flower1 whether real or artificial1 in the turkey2 the shape of the bird and a little taste will tell you about where4 ,a tongue can be glazed in an exactly similar manner1 a curly paper frill tied round the root1 and a flower placed on it4 ,so1 too1 a ham can be glazed4 ,but there is one method of ornamenting a ham which deserves notice4 ,we will suppose the ham ready glazed4 ,have you ever seen one1 the top round the rim ornamented with a white substance which looks like beautiful white fresh butter1 or even sugar8 ,now1 it is very easy to ornament a glazed ham with this composition1 and one advantage is1 you can put words on the ham1 such as 8,a ,merry ,christmas10 or1 on the occasion of a child's birthday1 the name of the hero of the feast4 ,the way to do it is as follows3--,get some nice white clarified lard1 and melt it in a cup in the oven1 and add a little salad oil to it1 so as to make it thinner when it is cold4 ,next roll up a sheet of fairly stiff note-paper like a cone1 and hold this cone near the point in the right hand4 ,pour a little of the hot lard into the cone1 and so regulate the pressure on the paper with the right-hand thumb and finger as to allow the melted lard to drop out or run out in a very thin stream at the point4 ,this lard will settle directly it comes out1 and turn quite white on getting perfectly cold4 ,i would advise you to practise designs on a black shining tea-tray1 as it will scrape off with a spoon and do again4 ,with a little practice and a natural gift for such things--for a clumsy-fisted ,mary ,ann would make an awful mess of it--it is wonderful what beautiful designs can be formed this way1 such as a harp or a rose4 ,in making a spiral border round the edge of the ham1 it sometimes looks a little prettier to have a small pink spot in the centre of each circle4 ,this is done by simply colouring the melted lard with a few drops of cochineal4 ,but ,i would warn you against having too much pink in ornamenting4 ,just a touch1 as in the case of the turnip-flower1 is all very well1 but it must be but a touch4 ,we wish some persons would bear this in mind in using rouge4 ,another exceedingly useful supper-dish is well-cut beef sandwiches4 ,if these are cut thin1 with just a little butter1 mustard1 and salt1 you will always find them eaten4 ,but a word about appearances4 ,have them piled up on a snow-white dinner-napkin1 folded1 if possible1 at the bottom of a silver dish1 and well garnished with small pieces of bright double parsley4 ,i need scarcely mention that every particle of crust must be cut off4 ,just contrast such a dish with what you get1 say1 at a railway-station refreshment-room the ham--they never have beef--coming out bodily with the first bite1 and having a mouldy taste1 which makes you regret that you didn't try either the butterscotch or the ,banbury cakes1 which generally form the only alternatives4 ,space will not here allow of my going through all the dishes advisable to have at a nice little supper1 so ,i will confine myself to a few general directions4 ,recollect you want to please children1 without making them ill4 ,now1 for the purpose ,i would always recommend a good large corn-flour pudding1 made in a mould1 and coloured a nice bright pink with cochineal4 ,this can be made nice and sweet1 and may be flavoured with a few drops of essence of almonds1 or a little essence of vanilla4 ,the dish is very simple and wholesome1 and yet looks very pretty4 ,you will very likely hear a little child say1 8,i will have some of that pink thing1 please20 and1 luckily1 that pink thing is the least unwholesome thing on the whole table4 ,it is the jams and pastries that do the harm4 ,with regard to jellies1 ,i would add1 try and get it bright4 ,this requires patience and a jelly-bag4 ,also1 as it will keep with ease1 make it at least two days before you want it1 so as not to drive yourself to have a lot to do on the day of the supper4 ,in making jelly1 whether orange or lemon1 gelatine is the simplest1 easiest1 and cheapest method4 ,do not grudge the sherry1 and also put a few coriander-seeds into the jelly when it is boiling4 ,you will find this greatly improves the flavour4 ,but we must not forget the grown-up people1 and under the circumstances they enjoy a good lobster salade mayonnaise4 ,i have given directions before how to prepare this king of cold sauces4 ,as1 however1 you are making a mayonnaise salad1 it is almost as easy to make two as one4 ,have a lobster salad and a smoked-salmon salad4 ,this smoked salmon must be cut into very thin slices1 and simply placed round or mixed up in the salad just as it is--raw4 ,if you possibly can1 have these two mayonnaises placed in silver dishes1 and get a few little crayfish or a few good prawns to add to the usual garnish of capers1 anchovies1 olives1 cut hard-boiled eggs1 c41 which ,i described in a preceding chapter4 ,in making mayonnaise sauce you will use two1 or perhaps three1 raw yolks of eggs4 ,now what are you going to do with the whites8 ,why not whip them up into a stiff froth1 and use that for ornamental purposes8 ,for instance1 suppose you have that nice simple dish1 stewed pippins1 on the table4 ,take a dessert-spoonful of foam shaped like an egg1 and place it on the top of each pippin4 ,have also in readiness a few of those tiny1 pretty little sweets called hundreds and thousands1 and sprinkle a few lightly on the white egg-froth4 ,contrast this dish with the pippins as they were before4 ,the change is marvellous1 and yet costs almost nothing4 ,yet many persons would think1 casting their eyes over the table1 8,ah6 that dish came from the pastrycook's40 ,one or even two piled-up dishes of almonds and raisins1 being1 if there are not too many almonds1 dark dishes1 form a favourable contrast with the light ones4 ,a supper-table1 to look really nice1 must not have too many white dishes4 ,if you have a large centre-dish of trifle1 with whipped cream on the top1 a few hundreds and thousands sprinkled over it set it off4 ,now good whipped cream is rather beyond the powers of an ordinary cook1 so if you happen to live near a really good pastrycook's1 you will find it a good plan to have a man come round just before supper and supply the whipped cream1 but make the rest of the trifle at home4 ,it is an exceedingly expensive dish to order1 and1 owing to wine1 brandy1 and liqueurs being requisite in its composition1 one of the very last dishes desirable to order4 ,even pastrycooks will often spoil the ship for the sake of a ha'p'orth of tar1 in respect of wine4 ,to wit1 mock-turtle soup4 ,order a glass of sherry at a pastrycook's with your mock-turtle1 and throw half of it into the soup1 and see what a difference it makes4 ,in fact1 as a rule1 if you give a cook wine for cooking purposes1 they drink the wine themselves1 and manage the cooking without4 ,as a few last words of advice1 in ornamenting your table1 as well as in amusing the children1 don't forget the crackers4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,ix4--,,spring ,,dishes4 ,perhaps no season in the year is more eagerly welcomed than that of spring--earth's great annual resurrection from death unto life6 ,how beautiful the first really spring morning6 ,a warm1 balmy air1 a deep blue sky without a cloud1 and bright sun lighting up like diamonds the water-drops on the fresh green grass1 o'er which the feathery cobwebs drift for the first time in the year1 the very spiders1 in their wondrous instinct1 preparing to set their houses in order1 to welcome to their hearts the new-born fly4 ,the whole earth seems1 like a huge chrysalis1 to burst forth from its uniform-coloured shell1 and vie with the butterfly's wings in beauty and variety of colour4 ,spring is1 of all times of the year1 the brightest1 and the freshest1 and the most beautiful6 8,the rose is fairest when 'tis budding new40 ,nor does the change of food come less acceptably than the change of scene4 ,a moderate enjoyment of the good things of this world is perfectly justifiable1 or our palates would never have been created2 and while green hedges and fresh bright flowers delight the eye1 a new set of dishes1 rendered doubly welcome by a year's abstinence1 delight the palate4 ,who is there so lost to taste as not to appreciate the first dish of fresh green peas or new potatoes8--genuine healthy-grown ones1 not forced1 which latter are barely better than those preserved in tins4 ,then1 again1 the first piece of bright-red salmon1 when it is well cooked2 or the nicely-browned forequarter of lamb1 with good wholesome ,english mint sauce with it--i4e4 mint moistened in vinegar1 and not a pint of vinegar to a small pinch of mint4 ,there is some very old riddle about spring being a lamb-on-table season4 ,whether lamb is really nicer than mutton is a question we will not now discuss2 indeed1 the question is entirely a matter of taste4 ,there are1 however1 several little niceties in cooking lamb that inexperienced cooks and housekeepers should bear in mind4 ,one very common fallacy is that lamb1 being young and tender1 does not require so much cooking as mutton4 ,such1 however1 is not the case4 ,well-cooked mutton1 such as a haunch1 should be cooked so as to be not exactly red1 but very1 very near it1 and should hold what is called red gravy4 ,those who have seen a good haunch of mutton well carved will know how the gravy will settle in it after several slices have been taken out4 ,i believe1 at some regimental messes1 many years ago1 there used to be a fine for carving a haunch so that this gravy was allowed to run out4 ,now1 lamb should be cooked thoroughly1 and should never even border on being red2 underdone lamb is as bad as underdone veal4 ,of course1 lamb bears the same relation to mutton as veal to beef4 ,the climax of mismanagement is graphically expressed in the pathetic appeal of ,david ,copperfield to his poor little 8child-wife0 when he said--8,you know1 my dear1 ,i was made quite unwell the other day by being obliged to eat underdone veal in a hurry40 ,another point to be remembered in connection with lamb is the gravy4 ,a roast forequarter of lamb will not make the gravy that a sirloin of beef or haunch of mutton will4 ,now1 ,i daresay there are many persons who really do not know where the gravy comes from that usually surrounds a sirloin of beef2 and as these articles are intended to instruct absolute novices1 ,i will describe the process1 reminding those who may think anything so simple unworthy of explanation1 that even royalty some years back is reported to have puzzled over the intricate problem as to how the apples got into the dumpling4 ,we will suppose the beef to have been hanging on the spit the sufficient time1 and the cook has arrived at the critical moment called dishing-up4 ,of course1 under the meat to catch the fat1 c41 that drops1 have been placed that large tin vessel with a well in the centre1 called the dripping-pan1 which will be found to contain a pint1 or a quart1 according to the size of the joint1 of melted fat1 or1 as it is usually called1 dripping4 ,the cook takes this dripping-pan1 and carefully and slowly pours off all the fat into a basin2 at the bottom of the fat will be found a sediment1 brown or red2 this is the gravy4 ,now1 the great art is to pour off all the fat1 and yet to avoid losing any of the gravy4 ,what is requisite is--first1 common-sense2 secondly1 a little experience and a steady hand4 ,as a rule1 it is best to go on pouring till just a little sediment has run with the fat1 and then stop4 ,next1 take some boiling water1 about half a pint or a little more1 and pour it into the dripping-pan1 and stir it about1 taking care to scrape those parts where the gravy is dried on and the dripping-pan looks brown2 by this means the gravy will not merely look darker1 but will be absolutely richer4 ,this must now be poured through a fine strainer over the meat4 ,if the cook sees that the gravy has got a little cold in the operation1 of course she would pour it1 just as it is1 into a saucepan and make it hot1 but not let it boil1 and then pour it through the strainer over the meat4 ,when the party at dinner is large1 and yet the joint put on the table1 it is a very good plan to pour only half the gravy over at first1 and to send up the rest hot about ten minutes afterwards1 when it can be poured over in the dining-room4 ,now1 we have said that lamb does not make good gravy2 when1 therefore1 it is possible1 get some thin stock1 and use that to pour into the dripping-pan instead of boiling water1 only take care that the stock is tasteless--anything like rich gravy would destroy the delicate flavour of the lamb4 ,it should be borne in mind1 too1 that lamb is one of the few meats that are none the better for keeping2 the quicker it is cooked1 the nicer will it be4 ,in hot weather1 lamb has an unamiable property of getting high quicker than other meat1 especially the shoulder4 ,the reason of this is probably that it is 8open10 and not close meat1 like a silverside of beef4 ,a loin of mutton that has been jointed will get bad quicker than one not jointed4 ,we next come to the general and nicest accompaniment to roast lamb1 and that is1 nice fresh young green peas4 ,when we say fresh1 we mean lately gathered4 ,peas that have been picked some time are very inferior in flavour to those recently picked4 ,shell the peas1 throwing them into cold water just like potatoes after being peeled4 ,next get a large saucepan of boiling water1 into which has been placed a table-spoonful of salt1 and a very little moist sugar--about a salt-spoon is sufficient4 ,strain the peas1 throw them in the boiling water gradually1 in order not to take the water off the boil for too long4 ,the next point to be considered is1 why do some people always have peas looking a bright green1 and others send them up with a bad colour8 ,the secret of this is1 do not cover up the saucepan4 ,now1 as the saucepan is open1 if the fire is likewise an open one1 it follows that the fire should be pretty clear1 or you will run the risk of having the peas smoky4 ,it will1 however1 generally be found that the fire1 after roasting a joint1 is tolerably clear at the finish1 especially as lamb requires a brisk fire4 ,a few leaves of fresh mint should be boiled with the peas2 they should be strained off very quickly1 and put into a hot vegetable-dish1 as they very soon get cold1 and sent up to table very quickly4 ,i recollect1 years ago1 that cooks used to put a penny 7the old-fashioned copper ones7 into the saucepan1 the copper being supposed to improve the colour2 but the use of copper for the purpose of making vegetables green should be avoided4 ,in the case of bright-green pickles1 where the colour has been obtained by this means1 the result is that a very injurious if not absolutely poisonous compound has been obtained4 ,young peas do not require more than a quarter of an hour's boiling2 old peas will take half an hour2 and when old1 a good-sized pinch of carbonate of soda may be put with advantage into the water1 to render the water as well as the peas softer4 ,to say that mint sauce requires mint seems somewhat of a truism2 but nevertheless this seems the point generally overlooked1 especially at hotels1 where the habit seems to be to send up mint in the very smallest possible quantity1 and vinegar in exactly opposite proportions4 ,chop up enough fresh mint to half-fill a tea-cup1 add about a table-spoonful of moist sugar1 about three-parts of a tea-cupful of vinegar1 and half a tea-cupful of water4 ,let the whole stand for a few hours1 in order that the flavour of mint may get into the vinegar4 ,i don't know why1 but servants invariably put too much vinegar2 as nothing in the world will cure them1 it is one of those things which1 if it is possible1 the mistress of the house should do herself4 ,new potatoes differ from old in this important respect3 in cooking1 the latter require cold water2 the former1 boiling water4 ,in both cases salt must be put in the water1 about a table-spoonful to every two quarts4 ,like peas1 new potatoes are best when fresh from the garden4 ,when really young1 the skin will rub off with a cloth4 ,they vary in the time they take to boil from a quarter of an hour to twenty-five minutes2 but the best plan is to wait a reasonable time1 and try one with a fork and see if it is tender1 when they should be immediately strained off1 as1 if they are allowed to boil too long1 they will get pappy4 ,let them dry in the saucepan1 and when dry1 put them into the vegetable-dish1 with either a lump of butter--which will melt1 and make them look oily--or a little good melted butter made with milk1 into which has been put a little finely-chopped parsley1 may be poured over each potato4 ,perhaps the piece of plain butter is best1 however4 ,there are1 especially in early spring1 a large quantity of potatoes sold that pretend to be new1 but are not4 ,what they are1 or where they come from 7some say ,holland71 ,i don't know1 but they are not worth eating1 and it is just as well to know it4 ,if anybody who understands the swindle will explain1 ,i should feel much obliged4 ,to boil fish such as salmon is really very easy1 but requires care4 ,the fish must be placed in cold water1 to which plenty of salt has been added--about six table-spoonfuls to every gallon of water1 or nearly a pound of salt4 ,take care1 also1 that the water covers the fish1 and that the latter is thoroughly clean4 ,rub the spine1 which is apt to contain little clots of blood1 with a lump of salt4 ,salmon always tastes best when boiled whole4 ,when the water boils1 take care to remove all the scum that will rise to the surface4 ,as to the time it will take to boil1 no time can be given1 as this depends more upon the thickness of the fish than the mere weight in pounds4 ,in carving a salmon1 be sure to cut it always parallel to the spine1 and not transversely4 ,the best sauce with salmon is undoubtedly lobster sauce1 the best method of making which ,i have already described4 ,i would remind you1 however1 again1 that the sauce should look red1 owing to the coral having been pounded with some butter and mixed in2 also1 all the shells and little claws should be broken up and boiled in the milk that will be used for the sauce1 in order that the melted butter may be thoroughly impregnated with the flavour of the lobster4 ,in making shrimp sauce1 the same theory should be borne in mind4 ,boil the shrimps' heads1 in order that the flavour of the shrimp may be extracted1 only1 before using this milk to make into melted butter1 taste1 and see that it is not too salt1 as salt is often thrown over shrimps4 ,the melted butter1 into which a little lobster-coral should have been melted to make a nice colour1 should then be poured on to the picked shrimps placed in the hot tureen2 but shrimps had better not be boiled after being picked4 ,when salmon first comes in1 it is best to have it boiled2 but a very nice way of cooking salmon is to grill it--i4e41 do it on the gridiron just like a steak4 ,of course1 the salmon for this purpose must be cut in slices4 ,great care should be taken that the gridiron is perfectly clean4 ,the slice of salmon can be placed on the gridiron just as it is1 but if the fire is nice and clear it will be better to wrap each slice in oiled paper2 by this means the flavour of the salmon is kept in4 ,of course1 the cooking must be carefully watched1 or the paper will very likely catch fire4 ,the best sauce with grilled salmon is tartare sauce1 which may briefly be described as follows3--,first make some mayonnaise sauce as thick as butter in summer-time1 add to it about a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley1 chopped on a chopping-board previously rubbed over with a shallot2 mix this in with a good-sized tea-spoonful of ,french mustard flavoured with tarragon4 ,the mayonnaise sauce is supposed to contain sufficient vinegar or dilute acetic acid4 ,grilled salmon is more suitable for three or four persons than for a large party1 as few fires are capable of cooking more than two slices at a time1 and one slice is only sufficient for two persons4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,x4--,,savoury ,,summer ,,dishes4 8,it is almost too hot to eat40 ,how often do we hear this remark during what is popularly known as the dog days6 ,there is no doubt that as a nation we do not make sufficient allowance for the variations of our climate1 and are too apt to feed ourselves and children on almost the same food both in summer and winter4 ,the hotel waiter will give exactly the same answer both in ,july and ,december3 8,dinner1 sir--yes1 sir--chops1 sir--steak--cutlet10 and he stops1 having exhausted the ,english bill of fare4 ,but it is not so much in hotel life that the difficulty of getting suitable summer food is found as in home life4 ,how many tens of thousands of men are there who from sheer necessity are compelled for the greater part of the summer to be cooped up in broiling weather in a hot1 close office1 their day's employment being varied but by occasional visits to hotter sale-rooms1 c41 containing an atmosphere ten times more close and vitiated6 ,the unfortunate husband returns to his home with wearied brain and jaded appetite4 ,too often mingled carelessness and selfishness has provided such unappetising food for his dinner1 that he is fain to seek for that nourishment of which his body stands in need in fluids rather than solids1 and then the seeds are sown which eventually grow up and produce a harvest of wretchedness and misery4 ,i overheard a conversation once in a little back room in a famous pastrycook's1 now done away with1 between two wives1 on their husbands' selfishness1 each one of course trying to make out her own the worst4 ,they had started with a basin of mock-turtle soup1 and had followed with two oyster patties each4 ,i left before they had finished4 ,it was before wine was allowed to be sold by pastrycooks1 or1 judging from appearances1 they would probably have remained there during the better part of the afternoon4 ,it is the way of the world all over4 ,i recollect a man about five foot three passing one who was fully five foot two and a half1 and remarking3-- 8,dear me1 what a terrible misfortune it must be to be so short60 ,do you know any one who breakfasts in bed every day1 who never attends at all to household duties1 and whose health requires a rarer wine at dinner than others8 ,you may be quite sure that person will be most intolerant to any approach to self-indulgence in others1 and will be given to hold forth little homilies on the duties of early rising1 industry1 and self-denial4 ,charity begins at home1 and those only who deny themselves can make allowances for the want of self-denial in others4 ,great allowance should be made for those who1 after a hard day's mental work1 return home on a hot day1 irritable1 thirsty1 exhausted1 without being hungry4 ,there is a great art in adapting the food for the occasion4 ,there are a certain class of persons1 especially in this country1 who seem to fail to perceive that what is suitable at one season of the year is quite unsuited at another4 ,for instance1 hot pea-soup1 followed by an ,irish stew1 on a broiling ,july day1 is quite as much out of character as ices at ,christmas-time4 ,in ,england1 too1 people do not seem to understand how to make the most of the means at their disposal for making themselves comfortable4 ,how many thousands there are who1 having good gardens1 yet never use them except to walk in6 ,for breakfast or tea what better spot can be chosen than a shady corner of the lawn2 yet how often do we find this done8 ,probably many would say1 8,oh1 but the people next door can see us40 ,as a nation we are undoubtedly very shy and ungregarious4 ,this latter quality1 if one may be allowed to use the expression1 is particularly shown at railway-stations4 ,you may walk down a long train and find one man in each compartment1 and each one glares at you if you attempt to enter4 ,the constitutional shyness of the middle classes has a strong ally in the constitutional rudeness of the lower4 ,many years ago almost the only lunch obtainable in ,london was a ,bath bun1 washed down with tepid ginger-beer4 ,but this bun had to be eaten under difficulties4 ,first1 the extraordinary height of the stool on which one was bound to sit made one giddy2 then a crowd of small boys1 with noses flattened white against the window outside1 would carry on a running conversation1 such as 8,give us a bit1 guv'nor10 c4 ,unfortunately1 the faster you tried to eat the bun1 the more it choked you2 and as to the ginger-beer1 it too often refused to go anywhere except to the nose4 ,a lunch is still a great difficulty in certain parts of ,london4 ,it would be an interesting ,parliamentary return--first1 the number of licensed victuallers in ,london2 secondly1 the number of licensed victuallers who sold victuals4 ,were any one1 some hot day1 to place a small table on the pavement1 and sit down and eat an ice1 like thousands do in ,paris1 the result would be such a crowd that one would probably be locked up for the night1 for obstructing the public thoroughfare4 ,there is1 perhaps1 no dish so suitable for hot weather as curry4 ,but there are curries and curries4 ,i have seen some that have made me shudder to look at them4 ,if you see pieces of meat on a large dish1 almost swimming in a quantity of bright light-coloured yellow gravy1 people will probably call it curry2 but my advice is1 don't eat any if you can get anything else4 ,i will try and describe how it ought to be done4 ,say the dish is curried sweetbreads4 ,the sweetbreads must be fried as directed in the article entitled 8,uses and ,abuses of a ,frying-pan40 ,the curry sauce must be poured round them directly they are done1 and this sauce is made as follows3-- ,we will describe how to make enough for about six people4 ,first1 take six large onions1 and peel and slice them1 and fry them a nice brown-colour in a stew-pan1 using about two ounces of butter4 ,next take two apples1 about the same size1 or rather larger than the onions1 and as sour as possible4 ,peel them1 remove the core1 slice1 and add to the onions in the stew-pan1 then add a pint of good strong stock4 ,stir it all up1 and let the whole boil till the apples are quite soft4 ,add to this a large brimming dessert-spoonful of ,captain ,white's curry-paste1 and a good-sized tea-spoonful of ordinary curry-powder4 ,the whole of this must be rubbed through a fine wire sieve1 with a large wooden spoon4 ,if you have not patience to rub it all through1 you can't make curry4 ,the next point necessary is that this curry sauce should be made of the necessary thickness2 and for the purpose1 what ,i have alluded to before under the name of 8brown thickening0 is necessary4 ,now1 as brown thickening is almost an essential in every house where gravies and sauces are made properly1 ,i will describe how this brown thickening ought to be made4 ,as the process is somewhat troublesome1 and a large quantity is as easy to make as a small1 it will be found best to make sufficient to last some time1 as brown thickening will keep good for months if made properly4 ,take half a pound of flour1 and1 having thoroughly dried it on a large newspaper before the fire1 sift it carefully4 ,next take half a pound of butter and melt it in an enamelled saucepan2 a sort of white curdled substance will be generally found mixed with it1 some of which can be skimmed off the top1 and some will settle at the bottom4 ,skim the butter and pour off all that is as clear as good salad-oil1 and only use this for the brown thickening4 ,next mix thoroughly well together the sifted flour and the hot melted butter in an enamelled stew-pan1 and stir it over a quick fire with a wooden spoon4 ,if the flour has been properly dried1 and the butter properly clarified1 the whole mass will stick together1 and shake about in the stew-pan4 ,the stirring must be continued till the whole mass begins to turn colour4 ,as soon as it is obtained a light fawn-colour1 or looks like the outside of a nicely-baked ,french roll1 remove the stew-pan from the fire1 but still continue stirring4 ,throw in a large slice of onion2 this will help to check the heat1 and at the same time assist in giving the thickening a nice flavour4 ,it is wonderful how long an enamelled stew-pan will retain the heat4 ,it would be a good lesson to an inexperienced cook to watch for how long a period the butter and flour will go on bubbling after the stew-pan has been taken off the fire4 ,it depends of course on the thickness of the stew-pan1 but this frying process will go on sometimes for ten minutes1 or even longer1 after it has been moved on to a cold slab4 ,this fact will explain why hashes and stews are so often tough4 ,most cooks know hash ought not to boil1 but how many place a stew-pan on the fire1 and remove it on to the hob directly it begins what they call to simmer6 ,they forget that the boiling1 for that is what it really is1 goes on perhaps for ten minutes after they have moved the stew-pan from the fire1 when a tea-spoonful of cold gravy1 or even cold water1 would have stopped the boiling at once4 ,keep stirring the brown thickening till it ceases to boil or bubble1 and then remove as much as you can of the onion1 and pour the whole into a stone jar--an empty white jam-pot is as good as anything--and allow it to get cold4 ,when it is cold it has the appearance somewhat of light-coloured chocolate1 and a few spoonfuls of it will always give a nice rich brown look to gravies4 ,it must be put in the gravy1 and stirred over the fire in it2 gradually1 as the gravy boils1 it becomes thicker4 ,for ordinary gravy1 when brown thickening is used1 a tea-spoonful of sherry is a great improvement4 ,cooks often thicken gravies1 curries1 c41 with butter and flour4 ,the effect too often is that the gravy looks a light colour1 and has a gruelly taste4 ,a good cook should never be without some brown thickening in the house4 ,sufficient of this brown thickening must be added to the curry sauce1 which is supposed to have been rubbed through the wire-sieve1 to make it as thick as gruel2 and1 as we have said1 this thickening only takes place when it is boiled1 and at the same time stirred1 over the fire4 ,the curry is now complete1 and has only to be poured round1 not over1 the freshly-cooked sweetbreads4 ,suppose1 however1 the dish required was curried mutton1 which is1 of course1 a much more economical dish than curried sweetbreads1 and it is undoubtedly one of the best methods of using up a cold joint4 ,cut some slices of meat off the cold joint2 avoid skin and gristle1 and choose those slices as much as possible containing most fat4 ,then boil up the curry sauce1 ready thickened and finished1 in a stew-pan1 remove the stew-pan from the fire1 and place the slices of meat in it1 and cover them with the sauce2 replace the stew-pan on the hob1 but not on the fire1 leave it in a warm place for half an hour1 and just before turning it out make it a little hotter1 if you like1 by carefully holding the stew-pan over the fire2 but recollect if it once boils or bubbles up the meat will get hard1 and the curry will be spoilt4 ,the proper accompaniment to curry is boiled rice2 this ought properly to be served in a separate dish4 ,the rice must be boiled till quite tender1 and then the grains should be separated from one another by being tossed lightly about on a cloth in front of the fire4 ,curry is1 as we have said1 the most suitable dish for hot weather1 as is abundantly proved by its being the most popular in ,india4 ,in ,india fresh tamarinds and mangoes are1 ,i believe1 used instead of apples2 various herbs and spices are also used1 which differ in different parts of the country4 ,many persons1 especially old ,indians1 have recipes for curry4 ,we have given what must necessarily form the basis of curry1 where the curry-powder or paste is not home-made4 ,by many1 the addition of a little grated cocoa-nut to the curry is considered a great improvement2 or where cocoa-nut cannot be obtained1 a few grated ,brazil nuts may be used instead4 ,others1 too1 strongly recommend the addition of powdered coriander-seeds4 ,coriander-seeds are1 however1 used in making curry-powder1 and good curry-powder ought to contain sufficient4 ,when1 therefore1 the powder is old1 and has lost that aromatic smell which it ought to have1 a little powdered coriander-seed may be added with advantage2 but it has a very decided flavour1 and must be used with caution4 ,one of the most common faults in inexperienced cooks is to have certain fancies for certain flavours1 and then to let that flavour predominate4 ,i have tasted mock-turtle soup which might have been called marjoram soup4 ,herbs and spices must always be used carefully1 and it is generally best to err on the side of too little than too much4 ,to illustrate this point1 ,i would mention what is generally known as veal stuffing4 ,who has not1 at one time or other1 tasted a turkey in which it was so highly flavoured that you tasted it all through dinner8 ,indeed1 at times you may consider yourself fortunate if you don't taste it all through the next day4 ,how few cooks1 too1 understand how to use garlic or aromatic flavouring herbs6 ,it is in the proper blending of these strong flavours that one can detect the hand of the artiste4 ,there are many worse things to eat in hot weather than cold roast beef and salad4 ,now1 it will often be said that if you want a good salad you must go to ,paris4 ,certainly you do get a good salad there invariably2 but it is equally easy to have one at home by simply doing what they do4 ,one principal reason why ,english people so often have bad salads is that they have an absurd prejudice against oil4 ,very often1 too1 when they use oil1 the oil is bad4 ,of course1 it is as impossible to make a good salad with bad oil as it is to cook a good dinner with high meat4 ,the oil must be clear1 bright1 and of a pale-yellow colour2 if it looks at all green1 it is probably bad4 ,bearing1 therefore1 this in mind1 ,i will now tell you how to mix a salad1 simply repeating the recipe or custom used in ninety-nine out of a hundred ,french restaurants4 ,first get two or three small ,french cabbage-lettuces4 ,wash them1 if necessary1 in a little cold water1 but do not dry them on a cloth1 as you will thereby probably bruise them and spoil them4 ,shake them dry in a little wire basket2 or put them in a cloth1 and take the cloth by the four corners1 and make the lettuce-leaves jump inside2 then put them lightly into a salad-bowl4 ,next chop up enough parsley to cover a threepenny-piece1 and also chop three fresh mint-leaves1 and sprinkle this over the lettuce4 ,next take a table-spoon1 and place in it about half a salt-spoonful of salt1 and quarter of pepper2 fill the table-spoon with oil4 ,mix up the pepper and salt with the oil1 and pour it over the lettuce--,i am supposing enough for about four persons--add half a table-spoonful more oil1 and toss the lettuce lightly together for two or three minutes4 ,next add not quite half a table-spoonful of ,french white vinegar2 mix it for a minute or two more1 and it is finished4 ,now the difficulty in many households is to overcome the prejudice against the oil4 ,perhaps some one1 when they have read this1 will do as follows3 ,first take care to have a fresh bottle of good oil2 then mix a salad as ,i have directed1 without telling anybody how it is done4 ,let it be handed round at dinner-time1 and wait and see what people say4 ,if you tell them beforehand that there is nearly two table-spoonfuls of oil1 they probably will make up their minds beforehand that it is nasty2 but say nothing1 and give the recipe a fair chance4 ,there are two additions to a salad which many think an advantage3 one is to chop up with the parsley and mint one fresh tarragon-leaf2 another is to rub a crust of bread with a piece of garlic1 and then put the crust into the salad-bowl1 and toss it about with the salad4 ,this is quite sufficient to give it a decided flavour of garlic1 and1 where garlic is not disliked1 will be found to be a decided improvement4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,xi4--,,salads1 ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,them4 ,there can be no doubt that the last ten or fifteen years have witnessed1 if not a revolution1 at any rate a very great change in the domestic habits of the middle classes of this country4 ,persons nowadays drink wine every day who twenty years back looked upon a glass of port after a ,sunday's early dinner as a rare luxury4 ,there are probably more cases of champagne consumed in a month now than bottles in a week of the time of which we speak4 ,in many households we regret to see brandies-and-sodas have taken the place of good old-fashioned home-brewed ale4 ,but in the general management of the table the universal increase in the undoubtedly luxurious habits of the age is still more marked4 ,in every class of society dinners are served in the present day which would have simply astounded our forefathers4 ,now1 were we to inquire into the cause of this change1 our subject would be political rather than domestic economy4 ,the freer intercourse1 not merely amongst ourselves1 but with our foreign neighbours1 the alteration in the value of money1 the great increase in the importation of foreign goods of various descriptions1 have all had their effect4 ,again1 it must be borne in mind that increased luxury in one sense does not necessarily mean increased expenditure4 ,we have before had occasion to contrast the old-fashioned heavy ,english dinner with a modern one la ,russe1 and have endeavoured to explain that the latter1 while far more luxurious1 is at the same time far more economical4 ,if there is any dish in the world that varies more than another1 probably it is a salad1 and at the same time it may be considered as one of the cheapest of modern luxuries1 which by some is considered almost an essential to the every-day dinner4 ,contrast what we may call the early ,english style with the modern ,french4 ,first1 that huge lettuce1 sliced up1 saturated in a pint or two of vinegar2 it never even reached the dignity of being eaten alone1 but was considered a proper accompaniment to a strong cheese1 the unavoidable noise made in masticating it unfortunately invariably drowning what little conversation there was4 ,second1 the salade la ,franaise as one gets it in ,paris3 soft1 delicious1 digestible1 and somehow or other containing some subtle flavour that seems at present to have baffled the research of the most intelligent foreigner with the astutest taste4 ,of course1 too1 tastes differ and require training4 ,many of the lower orders in this country1 were they to see a ,frenchman in humble life dress a salad1 using the oil as he does1 would regard him with feelings somewhat akin to what the ,frenchman would feel were he to witness the national feat of drinking off a quart of adulterated beer as an appetiser before breakfast4 ,each countryman would regard the other as a beast4 ,but we must come to the practical part of our subject1 and endeavour to improve upon the lettuce and vinegar1 though by preface we would state that that by no means small class who think the best part of the salad is the vinegar1 which they keep to the last1 like a child with the jam part of a tart1 and lap up finally with the assistance of a blade of a steel knife1 will find but little instruction from our remarks4 ,we will commence with giving simple instructions for dressing an ordinary salad1 composed of plain lettuce4 ,first1 have ready a salad-bowl sufficiently large to enable the salad-dresser to toss the lettuce lightly together4 ,next1 the lettuce should be crisp1 but not too hard1 and we would advise that hard stalk part 7which1 by the way1 many persons think the best part7 not to be put in4 ,this1 of course1 however1 is a matter of taste4 ,then1 if possible1 don't wash the lettuce at all2 examine every leaf carefully and wipe it clean1 and remove any specks of garden-mould that may be on it1 and in wiping be particularly careful not to crush or bruise the lettuce4 ,sometimes1 and indeed often1 washing is absolutely indispensable2 when this is the case1 however1 bear in mind the importance of leaving the lettuce to soak in the water as little as possible2 next1 when the lettuce has been washed1 it must of course be dried2 the best plan being to shake it in a little wire basket1 which can be swung round in the open air4 ,these wire baskets are sold in the streets by men who go about with skewers and penny gridirons1 and are well worth buying4 ,if you possess a whitebait-basket1 that will answer the purpose admirably4 ,another method of drying the lettuce is to put it in a clean1 dry cloth1 and take the cloth by the four corners and shake it lightly2 the drops of water shake off1 and are absorbed by the cloth1 but the lettuce does not get bruised4 ,next chop up finely about enough parsley to fill a small salt-spoon1 and with it one or two leaves of fresh tarragon 7we will suppose you are mixing salad enough for four persons72 sprinkle this over the lettuce in the bowl1 which1 if the flavour is liked1 may be first rubbed inside with a slice of onion1 or better still1 a bead of garlic4 ,in giving this onion or garlic flavour to a salad1 too great care cannot be taken to avoid overdoing it4 ,sydney ,smith wrote a recipe on dressing salad1 so well known that we will not repeat it in full1 with the exception of the two admirable lines which every one should know by heart3-- 8,let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl1 ,and1 scarce suspected1 animate the whole40 ,there are various ingredients used in cooking which can only be used as here directed--viz41 8scarce suspected40 ,garlic is essentially one of these1 as well as nutmeg1 allspice1 mace1 c4 ,but to return to the salad which requires dressing4 ,place in a table-spoon a small salt-spoonful of salt1 about half of pepper1 then fill up the spoon with good fresh ,lucca oil1 stir it quietly with a fork1 and pour over the salad and toss it lightly about2 add another table-spoonful of oil1 and continue the mixing2 and finish by adding about half a table-spoonful of ,english vinegar1 or rather less of ,french white-wine vinegar4 ,we ought in this country to be very careful before we set up our opinions on such a subject as cooking before the ,french4 ,now1 some ,french cookery-books ,i have seen maintain that in dressing a salad it does not matter whether you put in the oil first or the vinegar4 ,for my part ,i think it does4 ,if the vinegar be put in before the oil1 it is apt to be absorbed by the lettuce-leaves1 and consequently one part of the salad will taste sharper than the other2 while if the oil be put in first1 and the salad well mixed1 each leaf gets coated with oil1 and the small quantity of vinegar when added is generally diffused4 ,to my taste the king of salad-dressings is mayonnaise sauce1 but before refreshing your memories as to how to make it1 ,i will first describe two exceedingly nice salads1 which have the advantage of using up cold vegetables4 ,the first is asparagus salad1 and as absolutely no oil is used in compounding it1 a description may raise the hopes of some of my readers1 who somehow 8never will believe in oil40 ,we will suppose some properly-boiled asparagus has been left from dinner4 ,all that is necessary is to dip the eatable parts or tops in the following sauce4 ,place the asparagus on a dish1 and if any remains over from the sauce pour it on the tops2 the sauce being made as follows3--,melt1 but do not heat too much1 a little butter--say an ounce--and pour it on to a plate2 mix in with a fork a good tea-spoonful of made mustard1 a little pepper and salt1 and nearly a dessert-spoonful of ,english vinegar2 stir it all up quickly1 and dip in the ends of the asparagus as directed4 ,this is a capital way of using up asparagus1 and the salad makes an excellent dish at a supper confined to cold meats4 ,the other salad to which we refer is the old-fashioned dish1 potato salad1 and is the best made from new potatoes1 or rather from potatoes not too old and floury4 ,considering the number of houses where potatoes are left from the early dinner1 and where there is afterwards a supper1 it seems strange that potato salad does not form a more frequent dish than it does4 ,the way in which it is compounded is extremely simple4 ,the 8suspicion of onion0--which can be brought about as before1 by simply rubbing the bowl1 or if a rather strong flavour of onion is not objected to1 by chopping up a small piece of onion finely and adding to the salad--is one requisite2 then slice the potatoes1 place them in the bowl1 add a little chopped parsley1 and if liked1 as before1 tarragon1 and dress the salad exactly as the lettuce was directed to be dressed1 adding a little more or less vinegar1 according to taste4 ,we must not1 in enumerating the various rarer kinds of salad1 omit to mention the ordinary ,english salad and its dressing4 ,the ordinary ,english salad is a mixture of lettuce1 mustard and cress1 beetroot1 radishes2 to which are sometimes added endive and celery4 ,if in season1 a little celery is certainly an improvement to a mixed salad of this kind2 and some even recommend a few slices of boiled potatoes4 ,the usual dressing to a salad of this description is made by mixing three or four table-spoonfuls of cream with half a table-spoonful or more of brown sugar1 two table-spoonfuls of vinegar1 about a tea-spoonful of made mustard1 pepper and salt1 and some add a little oil1 though when cream is used there is no occasion for oil1 and those who prefer this kind of salad generally object to it4 ,in dressing mixed salads the variety of recipes is almost innumerable4 ,yolks of hard-boiled eggs are mixed up with a little milk1 and when cream is liked and yet cannot be obtained1 this is a very good substitute4 ,of course1 in winter the choice of salad is limited1 though of late years it is possible to obtain ,french lettuces nearly all the year round4 ,still1 a very nice salad can be made from mixed endive1 beetroot1 and celery1 which can be dressed in any of the ways ,i have mentioned4 ,an exceedingly nice salad can be formed from mixed boiled vegetables1 the most important ones being cauliflower1 ,french beans1 peas1 summer cabbage1 and new potatoes2 a little chopped parsley and young onions should be added1 and the salad dressed exactly similar to the potato salad4 ,a variety of herbs are used abroad for salads1 which are not often used in this country1 the chief being dandelion-leaves4 ,these herbs1 however1 are difficult to obtain except in the neighbourhood of ,soho1 where a knowledge of ,french is requisite in addition1 in order for you to obtain exactly what you want2 and as there are herbs closely resembling those used1 some of which are absolutely poisonous1 caution should be used by amateur herbalists4 ,the fact1 however1 remains that ,french peasants would gather a delicious salad from our ditches1 whereas the only creature in the country sufficiently educated to appreciate these delicacies at present is the ,british pig4 ,by far the best form of sauce for salads is mayonnaise sauce1 especially when the salads consist of some green vegetable1 such as lettuce1 mixed with meat or fish4 ,for instance1 we can have chicken salad1 lobster salad1 or salmon salad1 c4 ,now with salad of this description no sauce can approach1 either in appearance or flavour1 the mayonnaise sauce4 ,as ,i have already given full instructions as to the best method of preparing this sauce1 in the article entitled 8,how to ,make ,dishes ,look ,nice10 ,i will briefly remind you that the one great secret in getting the sauce thick is to drop the oil on the yolk of egg very slowly1 drop by drop at starting1 and also not to put the vinegar in the basin with the yolk at the commencement1 as is often erroneously taught4 ,by dropping the oil one drop at a time1 and by patiently beating up the yolk of egg1 the sauce will gradually assume the form of custard1 and by adding more oil1 and continuing the beating1 can be made as firm as butter4 ,a little salt and white pepper and ,french white-wine vinegar can then be carefully added2 but it will be often found best to defer adding the pepper1 salt1 and vinegar till the salad is all mixed up together4 ,as mayonnaise is1 when properly made a firm sauce1 it is particularly useful in masking over salads1 thereby rendering them very ornamental dishes4 ,for instance1 suppose you have a few slices of smoked salmon--and smoked salmon1 lettuce 7especially small ,french ones71 and mayonnaise sauce make one of the nicest salads that can be got--the following is the best method of preparing a really ornamental dish3--,pile the lettuce up in the centre of the dish as high as possible1 and so arrange it that the outer leaves are smooth and uniform2 cover these leaves entirely with the sauce1 using if possible a silver knife or ivory paper-knife for the purpose2 place the slices of salmon neatly round the base of the salad1 which ought in appearance to resemble a mould of solid custard4 ,ornament the sauce by dropping on little pieces of finely-chopped parsley1 and sticking in a few dried capers1 and stick a little sprig of bright-green parsley on the top2 a few olives and anchovies are a great improvement4 ,a dish of this description makes a very pretty addition either to the supper-table or at lunch4 ,i need scarcely add that hard-boiled eggs cut up form a capital garnish to almost every kind of salad4 ,the eggs1 to taste nice1 should be new-laid4 ,they should be placed in a saucepan in cold water1 and allowed to remain in a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes after the water boils2 they should then be taken out and placed in cold water1 and had better not be peeled and cut up till within1 say1 half an hour of the salad being eaten1 as hard-boiled egg is apt to change its colour if exposed to the air too long4 ,when a silver dish is used1 the egg will discolour it very much1 so bear in mind to clean it as soon as possible4 ,mayonnaise sauce will keep two or even more days1 if kept in a very cool place4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,xii4--,,picnic ,,dainties4 ,there are perhaps few months that test the cook's art more than that of ,august2 and not only the cook1 but the housekeeper1 must exercise some little tact1 in order to avoid the waste that too often ensues from heat and thunderstorms4 ,we live in so variable a climate that housekeepers are at times apt to forget that1 though in winter a haunch of mutton will hang for a month1 and be all the better for it1 yet there are occasional days on which meat that has been killed in the early morning is bad by sunset4 ,it is these sultry days that seem to invite us to wander forth into some shady wood1 and1 stretched on the soft green turf1 eat cooling food and imbibe cooling drinks1 by the side of some clear rippling brook4 ,nor should we necessarily1 whatever be the weather1 enjoy our lunch the less for a little society--in other words1 ,august hot days are admirably adapted for picnics4 ,picnic6 the very name conjures up before my eyes hundreds of faces4 ,wonderful institution6 almost the only one that seems capable of driving that curse of ,english society1 formality1 out of the field4 ,first1 the unpacking of the huge hampers1 at times necessitating almost the diving in of two heads at once--bright eyes meet under cover of the unromantic wickerwork1 and look brighter for the meeting4 ,it is wonderful1 by-the-by1 how stooping over a hamper causes most people to flush4 ,ah6 happy time2 when most are young1 and the world before them as fresh1 as bright1 and as green as the grass on which they sit4 ,how many staid old married couples are there who can look back upon a picnic as the starting-point in their long road of happiness4 ,no rose1 however1 without a thorn4 ,how many1 too1 can look upon the same festive occasion1 and remember as if yesterday the sharp sting of the green-eyed monster1 then felt for the first time1 and the poison of which has blighted a lifetime6 8,lift not the festal mask1 enough to know ,no scene of mortal life but teems with mortal woe40 ,fortunately1 we are not all moulded alike by the parent hand of ,nature4 ,the majority1 in fact1 pass in early life from face to face like the butterfly from flower to flower1 seeing no difference beyond that the present one is always the sweetest1 and at last settle down into a humdrum life1 as unacquainted with the heaven of love as they are incapable of feeling the stings of disappointment4 8,how much1 methinks1 ,i could despise this man1 ,but that in charity ,i am bound against it40 ,but the very class of whom we are speaking--viz41 the majority--have probably long ere this looked for the practical part of the subject to commence--viz41 the lobster salad1 pigeon pie1 cucumber1 ice1 champagne1 c4 ,a few hints on the general management of picnics may possibly be of service4 ,all know the difference between one well-managed and one ill-managed4 ,the things most generally forgotten are the knives and forks and the salt4 ,the most awful thing of all to forget is the hamper containing the drinkables4 ,one indispensable thing for the comfort of a picnic on a hot day is a large lump of ice4 ,if this is well covered in sawdust1 and wrapped round with a blanket or thick cloth1 it is wonderful how little will melt even in a long journey4 ,we will run hastily through the ordinary picnic dishes1 with a word or two to say on each4 ,first1 cold lamb and mint sauce4 ,bear in mind that the former is very apt to turn quickly1 in hot weather1 especially if packed close1 or put in a hamper near the top exposed to the sun4 ,pepper the joint1 and wrap it up in cool cabbage-leaves4 ,the mint sauce must be put in a small bottle1 a stone ginger-beer bottle being as good as anything4 ,second1 lobster salad4 ,this of course is dressed on the ground4 ,take care1 however1 in packing the lobsters1 that they do not impart a fishy flavour to everything else4 ,a few hard-boiled eggs should be taken to garnish the salad4 ,pigeon pie4 ,a good pigeon pie ought to have plenty of gravy1 and this gravy when cold should be properly a firm jelly4 ,i recollect once in a picnic the pigeon pie had leaked1 and the gravy had soaked quite through the table-cloth1 which had been placed folded up near it in the hamper4 ,now a very little trouble would have avoided this in making the gravy for the pie1 bearing in mind the time of year1 and how unlikely gravy is to set firm unless made exceedingly strong4 ,all the cook has to do is to put in a little gelatine4 ,this will insure the gravy being firm when cold4 ,a cucumber properly dressed is an exceedingly nice accompaniment to cold fowl and cold meat in hot weather1 and perhaps never appears to better advantage than at a picnic4 ,a cucumber improperly dressed is a very different thing1 however4 ,who has not at times at hotels or restaurants met with the small glass dish containing thin slices of cucumber soaked in vinegar1 on which float a few spots of oil1 looking more like the fat on beef-tea before it is cold8 ,how utterly uneatable is the cucumber in question1 simply because the waiter was too ignorant to know how to dress it6 ,the cucumber must be sliced very thin1 and of course all the green peel removed before slicing4 ,these slices must next be placed in a dish with a good-sized pinch of salt1 and then covered with fresh oil1 and well mixed up2 they may now be peppered and mixed again1 the vinegar1 in very small quantities1 being added last of all4 ,the cucumber1 being well covered with oil to begin with1 will not soak up the vinegar and taste like sour pickle4 ,i have already given directions how to make claret-cup4 ,when claret-cup is required for a picnic1 it will be found best to take ready mixed in a small bottle some plain syrup1 and also in another bottle a little sherry1 brandy1 and noyeau1 mixed in the proportions ,i named before4 ,all1 therefore1 that is required is a strip of the peel from the cucumber and a slice of lemon to be added to a bottle of claret1 the mixed wine and spirit out of the bottle next1 a little syrup1 a lump of ice1 and a couple of bottles of soda-water to finish with4 ,an exceedingly delicious and at the same time unintoxicating drink is some syrup of pineapple added to a bottle of soda-water and a lump of ice4 ,this syrup can be obtained at ,s4 ,sainsbury's1 #agg1 ,strand--,i mention the name1 as ,i do not know of any other place where it can be obtained2 and really in the present day anything that assists temperance deserves mention4 ,perhaps the most important element towards the success of a picnic is good temper and the absence of selfishness4 ,just as on board ship there seems a sort of mutual understanding that every one must be pleasant1 so is there in these little happy gatherings4 ,of course1 too1 much depends on the selection of the company4 ,avoid asking those who invariably act as wet blankets on anything approaching to fun or merriment4 ,but1 however hot the weather1 we cannot have a picnic every day1 though some may have thoughts on the subject similar to the little jockey-boy1 who wished it was ,derby-day all the year round4 ,we must eat to live1 which is better than simply living to eat4 ,mushrooms au gratin form a very good dish for hot weather1 but as fish is eaten first ,i should remind those who suffer from the heat1 and consequent loss of appetite1 that what is known as fish souchet is an admirable thing to start dinner with4 ,those who have dined at fish dinners at ,greenwich1 or1 still better1 ,gravesend1 as the latter is nearer the sea1 will remember how exceedingly nice was the flounders souchet which generally constitutes the first course at those admirable little dining-places like the 8,old ,falcon10 at ,gravesend4 ,the neat-looking thin slices of brown bread and butter somehow make one hungry to look at them1 so suggestive of the real whitebait to follow4 ,the preparation of flounders souchet is very simple4 ,first boil the fish in some water with a little salt till they are tender4 ,then take off carefully all the scum1 and lift the fish one by one into a vegetable-dish nearly full of boiling water1 taking care in so doing not to break the fish4 ,throw in one or two sprigs of fresh green parsley1 and the dish is complete4 ,hand round with the fish some thin slices of brown bread and butter4 ,eels souchet is very nice1 and we described how to make it under the heading of turtle soup4 ,when flounders cannot be obtained1 those very small soles1 sometimes called1 ,i think1 dabs1 make a capital souchet2 a large dish need not cost sixpence2 but pray don't forget the brown bread and butter4 ,it is wonderful sometimes1 by a little forethought1 how a dinner can be improved4 ,out of the many hundreds who have enjoyed those fish souchets at fish dinners1 ,i wonder to how many the idea ever occurred--8,i must have this at home40 ,mushrooms au gratin form a more elaborate dish4 ,for this purpose only large cup-mushrooms should be used4 ,suppose1 then1 we have eight or ten fine cup-mushrooms--and by cup ,i mean the top of the mushroom round1 and capable of being made hollow4 ,first cut off all the stalks1 and peel them1 and also peel very carefully the cup-like part of the mushroom1 so as not to hurt the rim4 ,next scoop out the inside of these cups1 and chop it up with the stalks of the mushrooms4 ,take a piece of shallot about as big as the top of the thumb down to the first joint1 and sufficient parsley when chopped fine to fill a tea-spoon1 and sufficient thyme to cover a shilling4 ,chop all these up together very fine1 adding a little cayenne pepper4 ,next take some raw bacon and scrape it4 ,it will be found that the fat will scrape easily1 but not the lean4 ,this latter must occasionally be cut in strips4 ,continue scraping the bacon till you have got about three ounces altogether4 ,chop the lean as fine as possible1 and put it with the fat into an enamelled saucepan4 ,add the chopped mushroom1 thyme1 parsley1 shallot1 c41 and fry it all over the fire for a time4 ,if the mass is too dry1 it shows there is not enough bacon-fat2 if it is too moist1 add some bread-crumbs4 ,next fill the cups of the mushrooms with this preparation1 and shake some fine golden-coloured bread-raspings4 ,place these cups in a covered stew-pan with some butter or oil1 and let them cook very gently till the cup part of the mushroom is quite tender4 ,they can be served either plain or with some rich brown gravy poured round them4 ,it is rather a rich dish1 and of course not one off which it would be possible to dine2 but it is exceedingly good and savoury1 and not nearly so troublesome to make as would be imagined from reading this recipe4 ,should these mushrooms au gratin be required as an entre1 where great excellence is desirable1 an improvement will be found by adding two yolks of eggs to the mass after it has been taken off the fire4 ,these yolks must be stirred in thoroughly1 and have the effect of rendering the insides of the mushrooms richer in appearance and taste4 ,they are not1 however1 in my opinion1 necessary4 ,when there has been a large lobster salad or salads made1 the cook is often at a loss how to utilise the lobster that is left4 ,in the first place1 lobster will not keep sometimes even one hot night4 ,one very good method of using up any remains is what is called bashawed lobster4 ,take all the pieces of lobster left1 and cut them up with a knife and fork2 chop up a little piece of onion1 about the size of the top of the little finger1 and a small piece of parsley4 ,mix it with the pieces of lobster1 and a very little anchovy sauce and cayenne pepper4 ,cut up a piece of butter into little pieces1 and mix in1 and fill the shell part of the lobster--i4e41 the two half-tails4 ,cover these shells over the top with some fine bread-crumbs1 and shake a few fine bread-raspings on the top4 ,put the shells in the oven for ten minutes1 or a little longer1 and serve hot4 ,some fried parsley makes a good garnish in contrast with the red shell1 and is also a great improvement to the flavour4 ,this is a capital supper dish after a hot day1 can be made early in the afternoon1 and only requires what the cooks call 8popping in the oven40 ,cook will1 of course1 maintain that the remains of a lobster or lobsters cannot be done this way properly4 ,the reason is1 lobster--and1 in fact1 shell-fish generally--has particular charms for the kitchen4 ,servants are partial also to cucumber1 vinegar1 liver and bacon1 lamb's fry1 roast pork and sage-and-onions1 winkles1 radishes1 c4--almost anything with stuffing1 onions--in fact1 generally it may be said that anything that possesses what is vulgarly known as the property of rising seems adapted to them4 ,they invariably dislike calves' heads1 and cold boiled beef1 or1 in fact1 any cold meat1 especially ,australian4 ,like ,mrs4 ,gamp1 they scorn hash1 but somehow like stewed steak1 both dishes affording admirable opportunities for displays of dexterity with the blade of the knife4 ,the world1 thanks to strikes1 trades-unions1 love of dress1 drink1 c41 is changing very rapidly4 ,where the class of servants is to come from ten years hence1 adapted to small families of limited incomes1 is a problem to be solved in the future4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,xiii4--,,cooling ,,drinks4 ,what subject is so suitable for early summer8 ,who has not at times experienced that strange and almost painful feeling that must exist in the throat in order that the sensation may be worthy of the name of 8thirst80 ,i recollect many years ago either hearing or reading a horrible story of the refinement of cruelty4 ,a prisoner is supposed to have been lowered into a deep dungeon1 and to have been left for a whole day without food4 ,ravenous with hunger1 what are his feelings on seeing the dungeon-top unclosed1 and slowly lowered a silver dish containing probably food4 ,the dish is at length grasped and uncovered1 and is found to contain some bread and nicely cooked salt fish1 both of which are eagerly devoured4 ,the dish is slowly drawn up1 and the prisoner left alone4 ,what1 however1 were the pains of hunger that he felt1 compared to the raging thirst he now experiences1 a thirst greatly increased by the nature of the food he has eaten--viz41 salt fish6 ,another twenty-four hours of agony1 tenfold greater than he experienced before1 pass heavily away1 and again the dungeon opens1 and a large and beautiful silver goblet is seen slowly to descend1 and sends a quiver of hope through the frame of the poor agonised wretch1 almost raving4 ,the goblet is at length clutched1 somewhat like a drowning man would clutch a straw4 ,alas6 the goblet is found to be empty1 and he is left to ,death1 more merciful than his gaolers4 ,horrible stories1 too1 have been told of travellers in the desert1 who1 in their death-agony1 have ripped open and ladled out a spoonful or two of water from their camel's stomach4 ,however1 we live in a happier clime2 certain is it that should any one experience thirst in this country1 it is not for want of opportunities to drink4 ,before1 however1 we proceed to discuss the various methods and recipes for cooling drinks1 such as claret-cup1 champagne-cup1 as well as home-made lemonade1 lemon-smash1 c41 it will not be out of place to compare 7as we have already done in cooking7 ,france and ,england1 in regard to drinking4 ,if it is urged there is a good old saying that 8comparisons are odious10 we would add1 so also is drunkenness4 ,that this latter vice is the curse of the country1 and has been for many years1 no one will deny4 ,that of late private tippling in families far above the lower orders is also on the increase1 is a fact so patent that it deserves more notice than that it has hitherto met with in purely medical journals4 ,perhaps one of the simplest and most effective cures for the dangerous habit we speak of is the substitution of some agreeable but at the same time harmless drink1 for the usual stimulant4 ,we believe that this point has not met with the attention it deserves4 ,the public-houses of ,london are essentially drinking-houses4 ,a poor man1 to whom every penny is an object1 is almost driven when thirsty to take beer--too often1 unfortunately1 the beer in question being so adulterated that it helps in the end to increase rather than alleviate thirst4 ,on the other hand1 a ,paris caf contains a choice of drinks almost unknown in ,london1 many of which combine a delicious flavour with the advantage of being non-intoxicating4 ,i have known several cases of ,english lads who1 when in ,england1 invariably took beer1 who looked forward with pleasure to the equally cheap glass of groseille and water when abroad4 ,these to whom ,i refer were in charge of some race-horses1 had been educated at ,newmarket1 and were constantly in the habit of travelling between that place and ,paris4 ,young lads at the dangerous and susceptible age of seventeen too often take to drinking more beer than is good for them1 just in the same way that they take to smoking--viz41 because they think it will look manly1 and not because they really like it4 ,the habit once formed1 in nine cases out of ten probably lasts a lifetime2 but the good old saying1 that 8prevention is better than cure10 was never more applicable than in the case in point4 ,we could recommend some enterprising grocers during the present summer to offer for sale glasses of syrup and water--say groseille--with a small piece of ice in each glass1 for a penny2 the profit would be considerable4 ,were every grocer's shop in ,london to adopt this suggestion1 ,i believe more would be done towards checking intemperance than all the efforts of the teetotal societies have done for years4 ,there are several ways of making claret-cup1 and many persons have their own private recipe4 ,it will also invariably be found that each person thinks his own recipe the best4 ,in this respect claret-cup may be said to have taken the place of punch1 disputes about the best method of brewing a bowl of which are said in days of old to have even led to duels being fought between the rival brewers4 ,i will give two recipes for making claret-cup--one1 which may be called strong cup1 suitable for dinner1 and another weaker cup1 more adapted to be drunk after cricket or rowing4 ,there are1 perhaps1 few occasions when a deep draught of a cool fluid is more grateful than after a long pull on the river on a hot day4 ,of course the basis of claret-cup is claret2 but one word of warning somewhat similar to that we gave in connection with turtle soup4 ,it is impossible to make a good cup out of really bad claret4 ,i do not mean cheap claret1 but sour4 ,it is quite possible to get a good sound wine for twenty-four shillings a dozen1 or even less2 but at the same time it is quite possible to pay more1 and get a sour compound that would be unfit for cup or any other purpose4 ,on the other hand1 to use really good claret1 such as ,chteau ,margaux or ,chteau ,latour1 for making cup1 would be as bad as using #ahcd port to make negus4 ,perhaps the most difficult point to determine in making claret-cup is its sweetness4 ,now1 as this is purely a matter of taste1 ,i would recommend persons to err on the side of too little sugar rather than too much1 as it is always easy to add1 but impossible to take away4 ,take therefore about an ounce and a half of white sugar1 and dissolve it by pouring a table-spoonful of hot water on it1 and afterwards adding a little claret4 ,i have always found this plan best1 as otherwise the sugar is apt to settle at the bottom of the cup or jug1 thereby often making the compound not quite sweet enough at starting1 and a great deal too sweet at the finish4 ,we will suppose1 therefore1 that the sugar is completely dissolved1 and added to a whole bottle of claret in the jug or cup selected for the purpose4 ,add two thin slices of lemon--cut across the lemon1 care being taken to avoid any pips--and one thin slice of cucumber-peeling about as long and as broad as the first finger1 and the thickness of the blade of a dinner-knife4 ,next add one sherry-glassful of sherry1 one table-spoonful of good brandy--not some of that dreadful cheap brandy that smells like naphtha--and one table-spoonful of noyeau or maraschino4 ,rub a nutmeg about half a dozen times across the grater over the cup4 ,let the cup stand for about a quarter of an hour1 and then taste it4 ,should the flavour of the cucumber be very decided1 take out the piece of cucumber2 and the same as regards the lemon4 ,should the flavour of the peel of the lemon be detected1 take out the two slices of lemon1 for lemons vary immensely in strength4 ,now add a large lump of ice and a bottle of soda-water1 taking care to pour the latter in carefully--i4e41 to put the soda-water bottle almost into the cup4 ,i have seen persons pour the soda water from a height1 thereby losing half the carbonic-acid gas1 which ought to go into the cup to freshen it up1 so to speak4 ,all that the cup now requires is drinking4 ,it is by no means a very cheap affair1 as the sherry1 brandy1 and noyeau probably cost more than the claret4 ,a cheaper form of cup1 and one more suitable for use1 as we have said1 after cricket or rowing1 is a bottle of claret with the same quantity of lemon1 cucumber-peel1 and sugar1 two or three drops of essence of almonds1 a large lump of ice1 and two bottles of soda-water4 ,one word1 however1 in reference to the lemon proper not only for claret-cup1 but for any other kind of cup4 ,the lemon must be fresh--i4e41 when it is cut it must have a firm rim round it1 yellow outside and white inside4 ,an old lemon1 that is soft and pulpy1 with a hard1 dry skin1 and that smells sweet1 is no good for claret-cup4 ,in making champagne-cup it is still more important to have a good lemon4 ,the method of making champagne-cup that ,i think best is so simple that it barely deserves the name of a recipe4 ,it is as follows3--,a bottle of champagne1 one or two thin slices of lemon1 a large lump of ice1 and a bottle of soda-water4 ,francatelli is1 however1 so great an authority in cooking1 and all his recipes1 so far as cooking is concerned1 so invariably correct1 that ,i will give his recipe for making both champagne and claret-cup1 merely remarking that ,i have not tried either4 ,francatelli recommends--8,one bottle of champagne1 one quart bottle of ,german seltzer-water1 two oranges sliced1 a bunch of balm1 ditto of burrage1 one ounce of bruised sugar-candy4 ,place the ingredients in a covered jug embedded in rough ice for an hour and a quarter previously to its being required for use1 and then decanter it free from the herbs1 c40 ,i should think the fault in this cup would be that it would taste too sweet4 ,for claret-cup ,francatelli recommends--8,one bottle of claret1 one pint bottle of ,german seltzer water1 a small bunch of balm and burrage1 one orange cut in slices1 half a cucumber sliced thick1 a liqueur-glass of cognac1 and one ounce of bruised sugar-candy4 ,place these ingredients in a covered jug well immersed in rough ice4 ,stir all together with a silver spoon1 and when the cup has been iced for about an hour1 strain or decanter it off free from the herbs1 c40 ,in this recipe ,i should think there would be far too strong a flavour of cucumber4 ,one of the most refreshing drinks in very hot weather is lemonade2 but how rare is it that we meet with lemonade that is really nice6 ,of course tastes differ1 but ,i cannot understand how some people can drink the ordinary bottled lemonade4 ,it is1 as a rule1 so very sweet that it is absolutely sickly1 and at the same time in such a state of effervescence that only peculiarly constituted throats can drink it at a draught4 ,plain home-made lemonade can be made very cheaply1 when lemons are not too dear4 ,the great secret is to use boiling water1 and pour it on the pulp of1 say1 three lemons1 with a small piece of peel1 but not too much1 as it will render the lemonade bitter4 ,add white sugar to taste2 of course1 children like it sweeter than others4 ,let it get cold1 and then strain it4 ,care should be taken that all the pips are removed from the pulp before the boiling water is added4 ,a great improvement to this kind of lemonade is the addition of a little dilute sulphuric acid1 about thirty drops to a quart4 ,thirty drops of dilute sulphuric acid1 when freely diluted1 can be taken at one dose without any fear1 though of course such a dose must not be taken without a doctor's order2 but the addition of it to a whole quart of lemonade has the effect of rendering it much more palatable2 and were a person to drink the whole quart1 which is improbable1 it would not do them the slightest possible harm4 ,dilute sulphuric acid is a simple but valuable medicine1 particularly useful in summer4 ,those who prefer sparkling lemonade had better try the following method1 and then let them judge for themselves whether it is not infinitely superior to the ordinary bottled lemonade3--,squeeze a lemon through a little piece of muslin into a tumbler1 and have the patience to wait while a couple of lumps of sugar dissolve in it4 ,then add some iced soda-water and stir it up1 taking care it is not half lost by frothing over the tumbler4 ,soda-water can be bought now very good at one shilling and ninepence a dozen4 ,mixed with a little fruit-essence or ,french syrup1 or raspberry vinegar1 it makes most delicious drinks1 especially if iced4 ,let me1 therefore1 entreat ladies who1 during this hot weather1 when they feel at times exhausted1 have been in the habit of taking either weak brandy-and-water or sherry-and-water1 to try one of these kinds of syrup instead4 ,the effect of a stimulant is but short1 and too often is followed by a reaction far worse than the original feeling of lassitude4 ,there is one subject in connection with cooling drinks that ,i wish to mention1 though a trifle out of place in an article that purports teaching cooking2 yet its importance is so great that ,i trust ,i may be pardoned for introducing it4 ,when you use water for drinking1 or for mixing cooling drinks1 take care that it is pure4 ,no house ought to be without a filter4 ,were the custom of first boiling and then filtering water universal1 tens of thousands of lives would be annually saved throughout the country4 ,children are peculiarly susceptible to the influence of impure water1 and during hot weather especially drink a great deal4 ,the cost of a filter is small1 and the trouble of boiling the water also small4 ,let me strongly advise mothers in small households1 where no trustworthy housekeeper is kept1 to superintend the management of the filter themselves4 ,if my advice be the means of saving the life of even one little one1 it will not have been given in vain4 ,should any one say or think that this is all rubbish1 let that one ask any respectable medical man for his opinion1 and then act on it4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,xiv4--,,game ,,and ,,gravy4 8,the month 'tis now ,september2 the season has begun when ,english customs give us game1 when dinner's almost done40 ,now for my own part ,i think we often rather waste our game in this country1 by bringing it in when really everybody has dined2 or if some one has what may be called reserved himself1 he probably finds he gets such an exceedingly small portion that he runs considerable risk of going home hungry4 ,i recollect an old story of a notorious gourmand1 who was asked to dine with a so-called friend1 who played upon him the following cruel practical joke--,a little soup and fish was followed by a plain leg of mutton1 and the gourmand was informed that he saw his dinner before him4 ,he accordingly gorged freely1 while his host scarcely tasted a mouthful4 ,the leg of mutton was1 however1 followed by a splendid haunch of venison4 8,it was cruel not to tell me10 said the guest1 with tears of anguish rolling down his cheeks4 ,the story does not sound like a true one1 and we trust for the sake of human nature it is not2 but it exemplifies our point in saying1 or rather asking1 is it not a mistake when game is cheap and plentiful1 to leave it quite to the last8 ,i must say ,i admire the good1 honest ,english hospitality of the ,north4 ,it may be called the ,black ,country1 but as long as black is associated with blackcock and grouse1 long may it remain so4 ,nowhere do you get grouse in such perfection as in the neighbourhood of the moors4 ,they have not yet arrived at that depraved state of appetite in which it is considered the right thing to send game to table nearly putrid2 nor1 as a rule1 do you get one1 or at the outside two1 mouthfuls put on your plate by an elegant waiter4 ,elegant waiters are all very well in their way1 but we prefer grouse4 ,now game1 whether grouse1 partridge1 pheasant1 or woodcock1 requires careful cooking1 and1 above all things1 good gravy4 ,by good gravy we mean that which will assist1 and not counteract or destroy1 the flavour of the game4 ,weak beef-tea or rich turtle soup would be alike wrong2 and it will1 we fear1 be too often found that cooks fail very much in adapting the gravy to the occasion4 ,roast goose with sage-and-onion stuffing would bear a gravy which1 so to speak1 would kill the delicate flavour of a partridge4 ,game served as a salmi1 which nine times out of ten means game cooked before and warmed up1 requires quite a differently-flavoured sauce to game proper--i4e41 game1 not too fresh1 and at the same time not at all high1 roasted to a turn and served quickly4 ,in cooking game ,i fear we cannot learn much from that nation of cooks1 the ,french4 ,i am such an admirer of ,french cooking as a rule1 that ,i wish to speak with the greatest diffidence1 but did you ever taste any game1 never mind of what kind1 at any foreign hotel or restaurant abroad1 to compare with the game we get at home8 ,i say hotel or restaurant1 as ,i have had no experience of ,french country private houses4 ,whether this is owing to the game itself being of inferior quality or flavour--as is undoubtedly the case with red-legged partridges1 when compared with the ordinary ,english ones--or to other causes1 ,i cannot say1 but simply record the fact4 ,there is no doubt that a large class of men enjoy their food when game is in season more than at any other time4 ,the class to whom we refer are those who live for the greater part of the year in ,london1 and as a rule never move a mile except in a hansom2 to such the #abth of ,august is the commencement of what may be termed their annual training1 the exercise they take during the next three months probably saving them from the inevitable gout and dyspepsia which would necessarily follow a town life such as theirs without such intervals4 ,what a change6 ,first the early rising--and there are thousands whom nothing but hunting or shooting will persuade to get up early--the substantial breakfast1 the glass of bitter1 the gun examination1 the struggle into the heavy greased shooting-boots1 and then the tramp through the heather4 ,what with the exercise and the bracing air of the moors1 lunch is approached with feelings which by contrast approximate to what we should imagine the alderman's would have been1 had he carried out the famous doctor's recipe--viz41 to live on a shilling a day1 and earn it4 ,let us hope the hungry sportsmen may not meet with the disappointment that occurred to a shooting party on the moors1 that we referred to before4 ,the first brace of grouse shot were sent to a neighbouring farm to be cooked for lunch4 ,the farmer's wife1 however1 had them boiled1 and stuffed with sage and onions4 ,there are various ways of cooking grouse1 but only one which we consider to be worthy of consideration1 and that is what we term grouse au naturel1 or in other words plain roast1 with good gravy and fried bread-crumbs1 or bread sauce4 ,to overpower the delicious flavour of a good grouse with strong sauces seems to us as cruel a waste as to mull good #ahdh ,la ,fitte claret1 and mix in cinnamon and sugar4 ,as an instance1 however1 of what cooks may come to1 we will mention an ,italian method of spoiling grouse--the ingredients for this extraordinary dish comprising mace1 garlic1 brandy1 macaroni1 tomato sauce1 and ,parmesan cheese4 ,imagine what a dish this ,italian cook and our farmer's wife could manufacture between them6 ,the first point to be considered with regard to game is1 ,how long should it be kept8 ,when game is bought1 it is of course impossible to say how long it has been killed1 except from appearances4 ,as a rule1 the first symptom of discolouring1 or the faintest smell of being high1 shows that the birds are ripe for cooking4 ,we would1 however1 allow a pheasant a longer time than either a partridge or a grouse4 ,a thoroughly fresh pheasant is more tough than a fowl4 ,game1 in fact1 should be treated exactly like a good haunch of mutton4 ,no one would keep a haunch till it is high1 but yet every one knows that the longer it is kept the more tender it becomes4 ,in a large number of ,london shops the game for sale has already been kept too long1 reminding one of the story of the man who arrived home after a days' shooting1 who had1 however1 been driven to buy a brace for appearances1 the look of which called forth the remark from his wife-- 8,well1 my dear1 it is time they were shot1 for they are getting very high40 ,the next point to be considered is the actual cooking4 ,we will suppose the birds ready trussed4 ,they should be wiped inside1 but never washed4 ,all game requires a brisk fire1 and plenty of basting4 ,it is the custom among ,french cooks to fasten a thin slice of bacon over the breast1 in order to prevent the bird being too dry4 ,indeed1 they go so far as to send the bird to table with the bacon still on4 ,in my opinion1 this spoils the flavour of the bird altogether1 giving it what may be termed a greasy taste4 ,if bacon is fastened on at all1 it should be taken off before the bird is taken down2 the breast should then be basted with a little butter1 and frothed and browned before it is sent up4 ,with regard to the time that it takes to cook game1 it is difficult to lay down any general rule4 ,the time of course varies with the size of the birds4 ,young1 small partridges want about twenty-five minutes2 good-sized partridges as much as thirty-five minutes2 small grouse will take a little over half an hour1 and good-sized ones require three-quarters2 pheasants require from thirty-five minutes to an hour2 or even more1 according to the size4 ,the principal thing1 however1 for the cook to bear in mind is to adapt the time to the period of dinner when the game will be required4 ,herein lies the great secret of game being badly cooked4 ,have you not often at a large dinner-party had game completely dried up1 the outside skin being quite hard8 ,the reason of this is that the game was ready for table about the period you were finishing your soup4 ,the fact is1 cooks1 especially young and inexperienced1 get nervous about time1 forgetting that it is quite as bad to have things dried up as to have them underdone4 ,it would be a good plan were the housekeeper to give the following directions to the cook3--,do not begin to cook the game until you send up the soup4 ,suppose the dinner to consist of soup1 fish1 entres1 and joint1 followed by game1 there is ample time to cook grouse1 or even a small pheasant1 by putting them down as soon as the soup is served4 ,in any case tell the cook never to put down game until they know that dinner may be served4 ,the late arrival of some important guest should never be the excuse of overcooked game4 ,it would be far better to have a slight pause in the middle of the dinner than to have things spoilt4 ,besides1 a pause after soup1 fish1 entres1 and joint is never objectionable4 ,another important point is the basting4 ,game should be basted directly it is put down4 ,ordinary dripping is quite good enough to commence with1 but it will be found an improvement if during the last five minutes a little butter is used instead4 ,baste quickly with a little butter1 and froth it at the same time1 shaking a little fine dried flour over the breast out of a flour-dredger4 ,when this is done1 let the game be sent up immediately4 ,treat it1 in fact1 like a souffl1 which everybody knows1 or ought to know1 requires a running-man for a waiter to be served properly4 ,in making bread sauce1 it will be generally found that cooks make it a long time before dinner--in fact1 putting in the bread-crumbs1 so to speak1 to soak in a saucepan1 with an onion1 in a little milk4 ,the result often is that the milk all dries up1 and the sauce gets burnt2 a fresh lot has to be made in a hurry1 and a sort of bread poultice is sent to table4 ,there is1 however1 a good deal of difference between bread sauce and a bread poultice4 ,the way to make the former is as follows3--,have ready some dry bread-crumbs1 put these in some milk1 or1 still better1 cream1 and boil them1 with an onion and a few peppercorns1 for about ten minutes2 take out the onion1 add a pinch of salt1 and a little butter1 keep stirring till the butter is dissolved and well mixed in2 add1 if you like1 a suspicion of nutmeg1 and the sauce is finished4 ,take care in taking out the onion that it does not break1 as it is extremely disagreeable to have a piece of onion left in the sauce2 it is apt to get into the mouth by mistake1 and give notice of its presence by a crunch which is not at all pleasant4 ,with regard to gravy for game1 what is required is that it should be good and strong1 yet without any predominant flavour4 ,for instance1 some cooks like to add mushroom ketchup to gravy4 ,this1 when the gravy is intended for roast goose or fowl1 would be unobjectionable1 but should certainly be avoided when the gravy is intended for game4 ,again1 the flavour of garlic should be guarded against4 ,there is an old proverb which says1 8,it is a pity to spoil the ship for a ha'p'orth of tar40 ,so1 too1 it is a pity to spoil a brace of grouse for the sake of a little gravy-beef1 and recollect a little and good is better than plenty and poor4 ,equal quantities of good gravy-beef and knuckle of veal should be used2 of course1 less gravy-beef is necessary when extract of meat is used4 ,the gravy may be thickened with a little brown thickening1 but not too much4 ,a very little arrowroot may be used1 but the gravy for game should be by no means thick1 yet at the same time it should look of a rich dark colour4 ,to make a salmi of game4 ,it is almost always the case that the game has been previously cooked4 ,take1 therefore1 any game-bones or trimmings that can be got1 and place them1 with a bay-leaf1 to stew as long as possible in some gravy similar to what we have described1 which is simply good strong stock made from gravy-beef1 knuckle of veal stewed with an onion in which a few cloves have been stuck1 a head of celery1 a carrot and turnip1 and a large handful of parsley1 flavoured with pepper and salt1 c4 ,after stewing all the game-bones1 you can strain off the gravy from them and the bay-leaf2 make the gravy a trifle thicker with a little more brown thickening2 make this gravy hot in a stew-pan and then add the remains of the game1 cut off as neatly as possible2 let it soak in the gravy1 but do not let it boil2 about a quarter of an hour before serving1 add a wine-glassful of madeira1 or good golden sherry4 ,a pale dry sherry is not nearly so good for the purpose4 ,it is really the addition of the wine that makes the gravy into the salmi sauce--just as in nearly all the ,french restaurants in ,london it will often be seen in the bill of fare1 something with sauce ,madre1 which simply means some ordinary gravy to which has been added a spoonful of sherry4 ,to make fried bread-crumbs--the best accompaniment to grouse--a clear fire is necessary4 ,get an enamelled stew-pan1 and put a little butter in it 7about an ounce71 then get some bread-crumbs1 stale and not too fine1 throw them in the butter1 and keep stirring till they begin to change colour2 as soon as they do1 remove the stew-pan from the fire1 but keep on stirring2 the process of cooking1 as we have said before1 goes on some time after the stew-pan is removed4 ,as soon as they are sufficiently brown1 place them on some blotting-paper1 in order that all the grease may be soaked up4 ,the blotting-paper can be placed in front of the fire1 and the bread-crumbs tossed lightly about with a fork4 ,the bread-crumbs can be made hot in the oven when required for use1 but should not be allowed to remain in too long1 as they are apt to get too hard and crisp1 and thereby get converted into toothbreakers4 ,as we have said before1 game1 at any rate in this country1 is far too good a thing to be left to the last1 and then to be brought forward only in mouthfuls4 ,the fact is1 we are all of us to a great extent creatures of habit4 ,we1 as a rule1 do what other people do1 without reasoning whether it is right or wrong1 good or bad1 but simply because we shrink from drawing out a line for ourselves1 or because we fear to be thought eccentric4 ,for instance1 take an ordinary party of1 say1 ten persons at dinner at the present season4 ,we cling to soup1 fish1 entres1 and joint1 and follow it up with game1 served in the same course with sweets1 the latter often being expensive to make1 and uncared for by the majority4 ,suppose we change our dinner into1 first1 a little good clear soup2 secondly1 a good haunch of mutton1 well kept and well cooked1 and let this be followed by some game in sufficient quantity4 ,when we are by ourselves1 we own probably we could manage half a grouse after 8a cut off the joint40 ,why therefore not save the money too often wasted over second-rate entres and sweets intended more to please the eye than the palate1 and spend it in giving a dinner which1 if not quite in the fashion1 will at any rate please8 ,were this done1 you may be certain of one point1 that your house will be considered one at which it is worth while dining4 ,a glass of ,pomerey and ,grem's champagne1 cold1 but not frozen1 at dinner1 followed by a good bottle of claret1 say ,chteau ,margeaux 7which may be placed on a top shelf in the kitchen during the day to bring out its flavour71 after dinner1 will have the effect of sending home your guests enabled to say from their hearts1 or at any rate their stomachs1 8,i have dined40 ,,how ,,to ,,cook ,,hare4 ,once again has that season come round in which earth appears to be most lavish in her gifts to men4 ,in our own country may be seen miles of ground on which rich golden grain waves in the autumn sun1 waiting for the reaper's hook1 while in the present age1 when the iron horse almost annihilates both time and distance1 within a few hours' journey from our shores may be seen that glorious sight where the earth seems reeling with rich purple profusion soon to be converted into the wine that 8cheereth ,god and man40 ,as often happens1 with change of season also comes change of food1 a change doubly welcome in a country like our own1 which seems to possess fewer changes than others1 on the beef and mutton1 mutton and beef1 day after day and week after week4 ,there are1 perhaps1 few changes more decided than that of hare in the shape of food1 and few dishes that persons would care less to eat every day4 ,still1 it is a change1 and a pleasant one2 but hare requires rather more skill in cooking than many cooks are aware of4 ,hare really properly cooked has simply to be compared with hare carelessly served to prove the truth of this statement4 ,i will begin by describing that simple dish1 roast hare4 ,now what is the common fault to be found with this excellent dish1 as we get it in nine houses out of ten8 ,it is nearly always dried up1 that part of the meat of the back which in roasting is nearest the fire seems covered with a thick1 hard skin1 the reason being that it has roasted too long1 too fast1 and has not been sufficiently basted4 ,in cooking hare1 and1 in fact1 in cooking any kind of meat1 the nature of that meat should be borne in mind4 ,the specialty about hare is that it has a tendency to taste what we may call dry2 and also1 it possesses very little natural fat4 ,consequently the cook's great object should be to keep the hare as moist as possible1 and to prevent it from getting dry4 ,in all high-class works on cooking1 entres made from hare are invariably spoken of as larded fillets1 which are finished by the addition of various sauces1 c42 but ,i do not think it would be very practical to describe the process of larding fillets of hare4 ,larding requires practice1 and one practical lesson of seeing it done would be worth a volume of bulk--indeed ,i might as well attempt to explain how to shoot the hare2 ,i fear the cook who depended upon 8reading0 for her knowledge of larding would miss her mark1 as surely as the sportsman whose sole experience consisted of a similar kind would miss his4 ,there is an old saying1 8,a disease once known is half-cured20 the disease1 so to speak1 against which we have to contend is dryness4 ,in roasting a hare1 therefore1 bear in mind the importance of basting1 and also of not letting the hare be too close to the fire in the early stage of roasting4 ,but to begin at the beginning3 ,we will suppose the hare caught and hung up1 head downwards1 in his fur jacket4 ,now the first thing to be thought of is the length of time that a hare should be kept before it is cooked4 ,this entirely depends upon the weather2 a perfectly fresh hare should never be cooked unless the whole of it is intended for hare-soup1 which is rarely the case save in small private houses4 ,some persons prefer the hare absolutely high2 the best course is a happy medium between being too high and too fresh1 and cooks should bear in mind that what often appears very high and offensive when raw1 becomes perfectly right when cooked4 ,we will not dwell upon that not very agreeable but still necessary process of skinning the hare1 but will at once commence to make the stuffing1 which must be tied up inside it4 ,ordinary veal stuffing1 as it is generally called1 is best for the purpose1 and1 as ,i think ,i have before pointed out1 the most common fault is too much lemon4 ,the following recipe will1 ,i think1 be found well adapted to improve1 and not destroy or overcome1 the flavour of the hare3--,take lb4 of beef suet1 and chop it very finely1 with #boz4 of raw lean ham2 add a tea-spoonful of chopped fresh parsley and #b tea-spoonfuls of dried mixed savoury herbs1 or #a1 if these savoury herbs are fresh4 ,these herbs are sold ready mixed1 in bottles1 which is the simplest method1 and are composed principally of marjoram1 basil1 thyme1 c4 ,as the herbs get drier1 more must be used1 but1 as ,i have said1 if quite fresh1 #a tea-spoonful2 if very dry1 #b2 the cook consequently must use her judgment for intermediate stages4 ,add to this1 to continue the stuffing1 of the rind of a lemon 7this latter should be chopped very fine72 add a little cayenne pepper and salt1 about #eoz4 of bread-crumbs1 and #b whole eggs4 ,the whole quantity should be well pounded in a mortar4 ,some persons add the liver of the hare to the stuffing2 if the liver is quite fresh this may be done1 but not unless2 and if the hare has been kept a proper time1 the liver is very often the part that exhibits most the--what shall we call it8--ravages of time1 and in such case should on no account be used4 ,this stuffing must be placed in the hare1 taking care to wipe the inside first1 and sewn up2 the hare should then be hung up before the fire1 at a greater distance than meat would be ordinarily2 plenty of dripping should be ready melted in the dripping-pan1 and the cook should keep basting as often as possible2 this latter is the secret of having the hare moist1 and without that hard dry coating outside which we mentioned4 ,as for the time a hare takes to roast1 it is almost impossible to say--a small one taking an hour1 and a very large one nearly two4 ,much depends1 also1 on the fire1 and the distance the hare is kept from it in the early stages4 ,bear in mind1 however1 that underdone can be remedied1 and overdone can't4 ,an inexperienced cook can cut into the joint at the back1 about where the hind-leg joins the body1 and look2 or stick a little piece of firewood in after the knife1 and judge by the colour whether it is done or not4 ,on the average1 an hour to an hour and a quarter will be ample4 ,near the finish1 however1 take away the dripping-pan and get a little butter2 baste the hare with this to finish1 putting the hare near the fire so as to froth the butter1 and at the same time dredge the hare with some flour1 so as to get it a nice brown-colour1 and serve some good rich1 hot gravy with it in a separate tureen4 ,as hare is an awkward joint to carve1 it will be found best not to pour gravy over it1 for the sake of the table-cloth and the feelings of the carver4 ,red-currant jelly should always be handed round with hare1 and the gravy will be much improved by a few cloves1 a tiny piece of cinnamon being boiled in it and then strained off2 add also half a glass of rich port wine1 and by rich ,i mean not a dry wine1 but rather port-wine dregs4 ,the last spoonful of port in the bottle should always be reserved for purposes of this kind4 ,we will now discuss what is1 to my mind1 a far preferable method of cooking hare1 and that is1 jugged hare4 ,for this purpose a stone jar with a wide mouth will be found to be better than an ordinary jug1 which used to be used1 and which gives its name to the dish4 ,have ready some good brown gravy1 free from fat4 ,next cut up the hare into joints1 each joint not being larger than would be considered the proper quantity for one help2 fry these joints in a little butter in a frying-pan1 so as to turn them a nice brown without cooking them4 ,have the empty jar made hot by placing it in the oven1 and have a cloth ready to tie over its mouth4 ,then as soon as the joints of hare are browned1 throw them into the hot empty jar1 pour a large glass of port wine in too1 and tie the cloth quickly over the mouth of the jar1 and let it stand for1 say1 a quarter of an hour or more1 on the dresser4 ,by this means the fumes of the wine will rise--the jar being hot--and will impregnate the meat of the hare in a way in which it would never do were it simply added to the gravy4 ,after this has stood some time1 untie the jar and add the gravy1 with a small piece of cinnamon1 six cloves1 two bay-leaves1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,the gravy should be strongly impregnated with onion1 and should be thickened with a little arrowroot rather than with brown thickening4 ,the port will materially assist the colour2 a good spoonful of red-currant jelly may also be added to it and dissolved in it1 though in addition red-currant jelly will be handed round with it4 ,next place this jar up to its neck in a large saucepan of boiling water1 only take care that the jar is well tied down1 or much of the flavour will be lost2 allow this to remain in the boiling water for about an hour to an hour and a half1 when it will be found to be sufficiently done1 as jugged hare1 like roast hare1 is generally over-cooked rather than under4 ,stuffing-balls should be added to it1 but not cooked with it4 ,for this purpose prepare some stuffing as directed for roast hare4 ,roll this stuffing into small balls1 a little larger than marbles1 and throw them into some boiling fat4 ,a few minutes will be sufficient to cook them2 drain them on a cloth and make them hot in the oven before adding them to the jugged hare4 ,as ,i before mentioned1 hare soup is best made from fresh hare1 in which case as much as possible of the blood of the hare should be preserved1 and used in the soup4 ,however1 it will be often found expedient to use up the remains of the jugged hare by converting it into hare soup for the following day4 ,i will proceed to explain the best method of doing this3--,first you must have ready some really good stock2 next pick out all the best-looking pieces of meat--little slices from the back are best--and put them by on a plate1 to be added to the soup at the last moment2 next take all the remains of the hare1 add it to the stock with1 if possible1 a head of celery2 let it all boil for an hour or more1 till the celery is quite tender1 strain off the meat1 take out carefully all the bones1 which will be found after this boiling to be quite white and dry1 and then1 with a good-sized wooden spoon1 rub all the meat and celery through a wire sieve into the stock4 ,this will take time2 but recollect1 the one secret of good hare soup is the fact of the meat of the hare being rubbed through the sieve helping to make the soup not only thicker1 but materially affecting the taste4 ,indeed1 ,i may go farther1 and say the excellence of the soup is in proportion to the amount of hare-flesh rubbed through the sieve4 ,should1 therefore1 the soup look a little thin1 allow it to boil away and decrease in quantity4 ,of course1 the taste will much depend upon the amount of jugged hare left2 but a little port wine may be added at the finish1 as the flavour of wine in soups is very apt to go off after they have been boiled for any length of time4 ,a little more lemon-juice may be added near the finish1 but avoid putting in too much currant jelly4 ,some persons think hare soup should be absolutely sweet4 ,for my part1 ,i think this a mistake2 besides1 red-currant jelly can always be added if wished1 but cannot be taken out of the soup4 ,the soup should be made slightly thicker by means of brown thickening1 which ,i have before described to be simply butter and flour fried of a rich brown colour4 ,do not1 however1 use too much of this thickening1 as it will be found to somewhat destroy the delicate flavour of the hare2 besides which1 good hare soup should by no means be very thick4 ,it will1 however1 have one very marked effect1 and that is1 it will enable you to add some more port wine1 or port-wine dregs1 which has such an enormous influence over the flavour of hare soup4 ,when the soup is about to be served1 throw in the little slices of hare that had been put by on the plate1 but do not let the soup boil1 as the hare is probably already more than cooked by being jugged4 ,allow1 therefore1 these pieces of meat to remain in the soup just long enough to get hot1 and no longer4 ,one objection brought against jugged hare and hare soup is the quantity of port wine evidently required in order that the result should be worthy of the trouble bestowed4 ,recollect1 however1 what ,i have said with regard to port-wine dregs4 ,now there are many homes where port wine is had in the shape of a quarter-cask2 where this is the case there should be no difficulty1 if the precaution is taken to bottle the thick dregs of the wine and reserve them4 ,port is1 however1 a wine1 ,i am sorry to say1 going out of fashion2 still1 good1 decent1 sound burgundy will do nearly as well for cooking1 and in the ,burgundy district in ,france nothing else is ever used2 indeed1 so far claret may be used1 and considering how nice a sauce bordelaise is1 ,i should imagine would do very well1 especially as all ,french cookery-books1 in giving directions as to cooking hare1 simply say1 add red wine4 ,when claret or burgundy is used instead of port1 ,i would recommend the addition of a little1 a very little1 nutmeg1 and also a little extra red-currant jelly1 for1 bear in mind1 port is sweeter than claret4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,xv4--,,food ,,for ,,cold ,,weather4 ,there can be no doubt that we live in an exceedingly variable climate1 and for by far the greater part of the year we suffer neither the extreme of heat nor cold4 ,still we have at times our hot ,july or ,august days1 when the ,english summer1 which is often described as consisting of three hot days and a thunderstorm1 vies with almost any heat that can be met with in the whole continent of ,europe4 ,fortunately for the present season of the year1 we are1 as a nation1 far better prepared to resist the attacks of cold than heat4 ,abundant--though now1 alas6 not cheap--coal is to be obtained1 and feather-beds1 thick blankets1 carpeted rooms1 are the universal custom in this country--making a winter in ,london as far superior to one in ,paris as a summer in the latter city is superior to one in ,london4 ,the question1 however1 before us is1 ,do we as a nation sufficiently vary our food to make it consistent with the weather8 ,here1 again1 ,i must confess that we are more apt to give winter's food in summer-time than summer's food in winter4 ,still there are certain dishes especially adapted for cold weather1 and at the present season of the year we may call attention to some of them4 ,first1 however1 it may not be amiss to consider on what general principles one kind of food is adapted for hot countries and another for cold4 ,the first principle is to remember that in cold weather we require fat4 ,fat and grease contain a large quantity of carbon1 and this carbon taken and absorbed into the system keeps up the animal heat4 ,there is an old story told that many years ago1 when the streets of ,london were lighted with oil-lamps1 before the introduction of gas1 ,russian sailors in ,england were in the habit of climbing the lamps and drinking the lamp-oil4 ,it is also asserted that in some of the ,arctic expeditions the sailors have boiled down and eaten the tallow candles4 ,whether these stories are true or not may be left an open question1 but there is no doubt that the food craved for was that best suited to sustain heat4 ,we all know how invaluable a remedy cod-liver oil has proved to many invalids1 especially among young children1 and how medical men often recommend cod-liver oil to delicate persons1 to be taken during the winter1 and left off on the return of warm spring weather4 ,now1 of all winter dishes1 perhaps none is so suitable for cold weather as that rather vulgar dish1 pea-soup4 ,persons who affect to despise pea-soup should remember that it is one of the most variable soups ever made4 ,poor pea-soup1 which really owes almost its whole goodness to the split-peas from which it is made1 is indeed poor stuff for epicures1 though a very cheap and wholesome form of nourishment for the hungry poor4 ,good pea-soup is an exceedingly delicious compound1 and ,i will describe how to make it4 ,first of all1 one great advantage of pea-soup is that a greasy stock1 scarcely adapted to make any other kind of soup1 is really best suited for the purpose4 ,for instance1 the water in which a large piece of pickled pork has been boiled1 or even the greasy water in which ham or bacon has been boiled1 is admirably adapted for making pea-soup4 ,as a rule1 the water used for boiling salt beef is too salt to be used for making soup2 however1 very often by soaking a piece of salt beef in fresh water for twenty-four hours before boiling it1 the liquor left will be found to be not too salt for making pea-soup--the cook of course remembering that no further salt is added4 ,we will suppose1 therefore1 that some stock1 or rather some greasy liquor1 has been left1 say in quantity about two quarts2 and ,i would here suggest that the water in which1 say1 a piece of fresh silverside of beef has been boiled1 should be used again to boil1 say1 a good-sized piece of bacon1 that may be eaten hot with some roast fowls one day1 and afterwards left as a cold breakfast-dish4 ,first of all1 take a quart of split peas and put them into a large basin1 and let them soak in fresh water for nearly a day1 a little piece of soda rather bigger than a pea being put into the water1 to render it softer4 ,should any of the peas float on the water1 take them off and throw them away4 ,next1 strain off these peas1 and put them in the greasy stock mentioned to boil1 and add to the two quarts of liquor one good-sized head of celery1 four good-sized onions1 two carrots1 two turnips1 and a little parsley4 ,let all this boil till the whole is thoroughly soft1 occasionally skimming the soup1 taking off that nasty thick film of fat which will occasionally rise to the surface4 ,when the peas are thoroughly soft1 strain the whole through a wire sieve into a large basin2 pick out the stalk of the parsley1 and with a good-sized wooden spoon rub the whole through the wire sieve4 ,this is the great secret of good soup4 ,too often the cook will not take the trouble to send the whole through the sieve4 ,it is undoubtedly a troublesome affair1 and very apt to make the wrist ache4 ,however1 the result well repays the trouble1 and the cook generally can call some one to her assistance to take a turn with the spoon4 ,it will also be found advisable every now and then to moisten the ingredients in the sieve with some of the liquor that has run through2 this rather helps the process4 ,now soup made in this way1 in which the head of celery1 the onions1 the carrots1 the turnips1 are all sent through the sieve1 as well as the peas1 is a very different affair from soup which has been simply flavoured by having them boiled in it4 ,indeed pea-soup should really be called pure of peas1 and when pains are taken in its composition a very nice pure it is4 ,pea-soup should1 of course1 be sent to table hot1 and as it possesses1 like all pures1 the power of retaining its heat for some time1 it is the better adapted for cold weather4 ,some dried mint and some small pieces of toasted bread should always be sent to table with pea-soup2 or small pieces of bread cut square1 the shape of very small dice1 may be fried a bright-golden colour in some hot lard4 ,these pieces of bread1 owing to their being crisper than toast1 are better adapted for all sorts of pures1 such as pure of ,jerusalem artichokes or ,palestine soup2 the pieces of bread being dried after frying1 on some blotting-paper4 ,with regard to the mint1 take care to have it well sifted4 ,if the mint is properly dried it will crumble easily on being pinched with the fingers1 but the only way to avoid the stalks is to sift it4 ,mint can be bought ready dried in bottles in ,covent-,garden ,market1 and at all good greengrocers'2 and as a small sixpenny bottle will last a twelvemonth probably1 and keep good almost for ever if well corked1 it is advisable always to have a bottle in the house4 ,another very excellent dish for cold weather is ,irish stew4 ,irish stew has the following strong points in its favour as a dish for cold weather3--,first it retains the heat for a long time2 secondly1 it contains a considerable amount of fat2 and thirdly1 which makes it a desirable dish for all weathers1 is1 it is probably the most economical dish ever sent to table4 ,the best joint for making ,irish stew is neck of mutton4 ,first cut off nearly all the fat1 the reason being that when mutton is boiled the fat swells enormously4 ,the fat that is cut off will make an admirable suet pudding--another dish adapted for cold weather--that can be flavoured with grated lemon-peel4 ,first pare about four pounds of potatoes1 and cut them into slices1 and allow them to boil for about a quarter of an hour2 by this means the water contained in the potatoes will be extracted1 and all water held in roots is far from wholesome4 ,next slice up five large onions1 cutting them crossways1 so that circular rings fall in slicing4 ,next take a good-sized stew-pan--an enamelled one is best--and cover the bottom with slices of potato and onions2 add a little pepper and salt1 and then cover this with a layer of meat1 the quantity required being about three pounds4 ,the trimmed neck or loin of mutton should be cut into rather thin chops1 and the short bones at the end of the neck should1 of course1 be all cut into separate pieces4 ,again pepper and salt the meat1 and cover it over with a thin layer of sliced potato and onion4 ,the whole should be packed rather close--i4e4 very little space should be left between the pieces1 so that a very little water added will be sufficient to fill up the stew-pan1 so that the top layer is moistened4 ,add this quantity of water1 so as to avoid leaving any of the potato or onion uncovered4 ,next cover over the stew-pan1 seeing that the lid fits close2 place something heavy1 such as a four-pound weight1 on the lid to keep it down1 and allow the whole to simmer gently for about three hours4 ,be careful1 however1 not to let it boil1 as that is apt to render the meat hard4 ,also on no account take off the lid during the stewing process1 as by so doing you let out the flavour4 ,it will be readily seen how exceedingly economical this dish is1 as absolutely nothing is lost1 as the liquor is eaten as well as the potato and onion4 ,in roasting a joint some of the flavour necessarily goes up the chimney1 and in boiling a joint some goes into the water in which the joint is boiled4 ,irish stew is1 however1 one of the few dishes in which there is absolutely no waste whatever4 ,one very seasonable1 and at the same time delicious1 sauce for winter is celery sauce2 and in country houses where celery is grown in the garden1 and can be had in abundance1 a little should always be served with boiled turkey or boiled fowls4 ,first of all1 cut up about six heads of celery and put them into boiling water1 and allow them to boil for about ten minutes2 strain them off1 and throw them into cold water1 and then drain and dry the pieces2 next place them in a stew-pan1 with about two ounces of butter and a little grated nutmeg1 and allow them to dissolve slowly in the butter1 but take care that the celery does not brown2 when quite soft and tender1 fill up the stew-pan with some good white stock that has been flavoured with some savoury herbs1 such as marjoram1 basil1 and lemon-thyme2 let the whole boil up1 and then send it all through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon4 ,should the sauce not be thick enough1 a little arrowroot may be added to it to thicken it2 add also a little boiling milk1 and a small lump of white sugar4 ,of course1 when cream can be obtained it is far preferable to the milk4 ,another great advantage of having cream is that the sauce will look much whiter than when milk is used4 ,the sauce may also be thickened with white roux--that is1 butter and flour mixed together and baked1 but not allowed to turn colour4 ,celery sauce will be found to be by far the best accompaniment to a boiled turkey1 which at the present season of the year seems to have that monopoly of one end of the table that the sirloin of beef seems to have of the other4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,xvi4--,,christmas ,,dinners4 ,once more the season has come round in which our ,saviour's birth is celebrated1 and though more than eighteen centuries have passed away1 still the clarion voice rings as fresh as ever in our ears--8,goodwill toward men40 ,from the highest to the lowest the sacred charm still works its magic spell4 ,what child was ever sent to bed before its time1 no matter what the crime1 on ,christmas ,day8 ,oh1 if we could only embed in our hearts throughout the year one half the charity that for very shame seems forced on us on this great festival1 how far happier should we be6 ,it is not1 however1 now my province to dwell upon the sacred character of the day1 yet the whole subject is so deep1 so unfathomable1 that1 like a still phosphorescent sea1 the slightest touch is instantly surrounded by a halo of glory1 faintly and dimly revealing to finite minds the infinite brightness that is hidden in its breast1 and ,i cannot bear to enter into the practical details of the day's festivities without some slight allusion in honour of the ,author and ,founder of the feast4 ,now--the higher duties of the season being of course left out of the question--,christmas ,day without its dinner would be like the play of 8,hamlet0 with the part of ,hamlet omitted4 ,a genuine ,christmas dinner1 too1 reveals our real national taste1 and proves to ourselves and all the world that we have not yet acquired a ,french one4 ,i wonder if it is possible for a statistician to calculate how many huge sirloins of beef and immense turkeys are consumed on ,christmas ,day4 ,such substantial fare--so unkickshawlike4 ,nor must we forget the goose of humbler life4 ,were it possible to calculate the exact amount of gratification given by mere eating1 it would probably be found that the aristocratic sirloin and turkey fail to compare with the goose and sage and onion4 ,we may add1 especially the sage and onion4 ,we will suppose the happy morning to have arrived1 and the children gathered round the table1 with cheeks so flushed with pleasure and anticipation that they rival in colour the bright-red berries that glisten in the holly on the walls4 ,bright eyes to match the bright cheeks1 eyes that have sparkled brighter as the well-known and looked-for chink has occurred1 as the annual ,christmas-box has been slipped into the hand by the grey-haired father or uncle1 as the case may be--whose own eye is tinged with water as his mind goes back to the time1 too1 when he himself was a boy1 without a care or thought of the morrow1 and who1 conscious of the joy he's giving1 walks away with a lighter pocket but far lighter heart4 ,happy1 happy times6 ,is there one who at such a moment has an anxious care8 ,yes--suppose the beef should be raw1 the mince-pie burnt1 and the pudding all tumble to pieces the moment it is turned out4 ,were it known1 ,i daresay tears have been shed upon such trifles2 but then trifles make up life4 ,perhaps the deepest anxiety is about the pudding4 ,i will give the following recipe1 which ,i have always found an excellent one4 ,the ingredients required are--one pound and a half of muscatel raisins1 half a pound of currants1 quarter of a pound of sultana raisins1 half a pound of mixed candied peel1 three-quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs1 three-quarters of a pound of suet chopped fine1 nine eggs1 quarter of an ounce of pounded bitter almonds1 a table-spoonful of flour1 a table-spoonful of moist sugar1 and a quarter of a pint of brandy4 ,the first thing to do is to stone the raisins4 ,cut the raisins into two pieces1 and in taking out the pips or stones be careful not to take out the pulp4 ,for this reason it is undesirable to leave the stoning of the raisins to young persons4 ,it is more than human nature can bear1 and the strongest-minded child is apt to suck his or her fingers during the process1 which1 in addition to being far from nice1 is apt to detract from the rich muscatel flavour of the pudding4 ,the currants should be bought some days before they are wanted1 in order that they may be first washed and then dried4 ,spread them out on a large sheet of coarse paper before the kitchen fire1 and occasionally stir them about4 ,they will also require picking1 and this wants both care and patience2 those little tiny stalks of the currants are very disagreeable to get into the mouth1 and still more into a hollow tooth1 for which they seem to have a natural affinity4 ,the candied peel should be sliced into little1 very thin slices1 and not chopped up4 ,the bread-crumbs should be made as fine as possible1 and the suet chopped up very fine4 ,care should be taken to get the very best beef suet1 that will chop properly1 as some suet has a tendency to get into a creamy mass2 when this is the case it is impossible to make a proper pudding of it4 ,the dry ingredients should now be placed in a large basin1 and thoroughly mixed together1 care being taken to put in the pounded bitter almonds little by little4 ,the eggs should be broken one by one into a cup1 in order to see that each one is perfectly fresh4 ,one stale egg will quite spoil a pudding4 ,beat up the eggs all together till they froth1 and mix them in with the rest1 and add the brandy4 ,if the bread-crumbs were properly dried1 it would not be found to be too moist4 ,next take a new pudding-cloth1 that has been well boiled in plain water1 and butter it thoroughly1 and then flour it4 ,turn the pudding into it and tie it1 leaving room for the pudding to swell4 ,the cloth must be fastened very securely1 and it is as well to tie it in two places1 in case of accidents4 ,this pudding must now be boiled for at least six hours4 ,it will always be found best to make the pudding some days before it is required2 hang it up in the cloth1 putting something underneath it to catch the drops2 and a pudding made as we have directed will keep good for months and months4 ,it only requires warming up for a couple of hours in a large saucepan of boiling water1 and then turning out4 ,now that awfully critical moment--turning out4 ,care should be taken to peel off the cloth1 and not pull it2 the reason of this is self-evident4 ,on ,christmas ,day a piece of bright holly1 with some red berries on it1 should be stuck on the top of the pudding1 and some lighted brandy poured over and round it4 ,if you take my advice1 you will light the brandy in the room4 ,to carry a large flat dish with ignited brandy is extremely dangerous1 and ,i have not forgotten that dreadful story which appeared in the papers one or two years ago1 about the poor girl who was burnt to death by the lighted brandy from the ,christmas pudding falling on her white muslin dress4 ,in order to light the brandy1 get a large iron spoon and fill it with brandy1 get a lighted cedar taper or thin wood-shaving1 or even a piece of paper rolled up1 and act exactly as if you were going to boil the brandy in the spoon2 in a few minutes the brandy will light of its own accord1 when it can be poured on the pudding1 and more added if required4 ,if it is evening1 and young children are present1 it is as well to turn down the gas very low1 or remove the candle for a few minutes4 ,judging by my own recollections1 the lighted plum pudding was a great event in my early days--slightly awful1 but intensely delightful4 ,with regard to the beef1 ,i need say but a few words4 ,it is a question between you and the butcher1 and ,i will say butchers1 as a rule1 behave very well at ,christmas-time1 and while ,i think of it1 ,i would recommend you to give your carving-knife to the butcher-boy1 and tell him to get it well sharpened for the occasion1 a hint that will not be forgotten--the day after ,christmas will have its due effect4 ,but sirloin of beef has a trying piece of gristle at the top1 and without a sharp knife a very handsome piece will be made to look ragged4 ,have a good roaring fire4 ,a piece about twelve pounds will take three hours4 ,it will not require much basting1 but remind the cook that it is the sides1 and not the fat part1 that should be basted4 ,some stupid women forget this4 ,let the dish for the beef be thoroughly hot2 and this takes time4 ,have also some curly white horseradish to pile on the top of the joint1 and be sure the dish-cover is hot1 without being smoking4 ,we will next discuss the mincemeat1 and would recommend a trial of the following recipe3--,take three apples1 three lemons1 one pound of raisins1 three-quarters of a pound of currants1 one pound of suet1 quarter of a pound of raw beef1 two pounds of moist sugar1 four ounces of mixed candied peel1 quarter of a rind of a fresh orange1 one tea-spoonful of powdered mixed spice composed of equal proportions of cloves1 cinnamon1 and nutmeg2 half a pint of brandy1 and one glass of port wine4 ,peel the apples and cut out the cores very carefully1 and then bake the pieces till they are quite soft4 ,squeeze the lemons1 and cut away the white pappy part1 and boil the lemon-peel till it is fairly soft4 ,the raisins must of course be carefully stoned1 and the currants well washed and dried1 and picked1 as in the case of the pudding4 ,chop the suet very finely1 as well as the raw meat and lemon-peel4 ,mix all the ingredients well together1 and add the brandy last of all1 and press the whole down into a stone jar1 and place a piece of paper soaked in brandy on the top4 ,remove the paper and stir up the mixture thoroughly every three days1 replacing the paper2 if this is done1 the mincemeat will keep good a long time4 ,to make the pies1 roll out some thin puff-paste1 butter a small round tin1 and line it with a piece of paste1 then place in a generous quantity of the mincemeat1 and cover it over with a similar piece of puff-paste1 and bake it in a moderate oven4 ,mince pies are none the worse for being warmed up1 but pray take care that they are sent to table hot4 ,let us next proceed to the goose4 ,now a fine1 large1 tender goose1 with a sauce-tureen of fine rich gravy1 and another of hot apple sauce1 with a nice large floury potato1 is not to be despised1 and to my mind is worth half a dozen turkeys4 ,i am afraid the sage and onion1 the necessary accompaniment1 causes it to be considered rather a vulgar dish4 ,never mind1 let us be vulgar2 it's only once a year4 ,the principal thing is the stuffing4 ,onions vary so in size that it is a little difficult to describe1 but for a large goose you must take five large onions and ten fresh sage-leaves4 ,if you are obliged to put up with dried leaves1 you will want nearly twice the number4 ,take rather more than a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs1 about a couple of ounces of butter1 and add some black pepper and salt4 ,chop the onions very fine with the sage-leaves1 and mix all up together2 and the yolks of a couple of eggs may be added if you wish to have the seasoning very rich1 but they are by no means necessary4 ,this will make the stuffing that nine persons out of ten really prefer1 but do not like to say so4 ,if1 therefore1 you really wish to have the stuffing mild1 the only difference must be1 you must cut out the cores of the onions and partially boil them1 and let them drain on a napkin2 this takes away considerably the strong onion-flavour of which some persons are not very fond4 ,fill the goose with the stuffing1 and roast it before a quick fire4 ,care must be taken that the goose is well tied up1 to prevent the stuffing coming out at one end1 or its getting filled with grease during basting at the other4 ,a good-sized goose only requires one hour and a half to roast1 and the general fault is that people will over-roast them1 and dry them up4 ,the largest goose ,i have ever seen would not take more than two hours1 but try in the case of a very large one to have the stuffing off the chill before you put it in4 ,serve some rich brown gravy and apple sauce in a separate tureen1 as you will be sure to splash the gravy in carving the goose if any is put on the dish4 ,with regard to roast turkey ,i can only say that no possible time can be given for roasting1 as they vary so--especially in the present day of plump prize birds--that even the weight would be no criterion4 ,a small turkey will require one hour and a half2 while a very large one may want five hours4 ,one word of caution about the stuffing4 ,every one knows how unpleasant a tendency what is called veal stuffing has to 8rise40 ,this is1 ,i believe1 owing to too much lemon-peel being almost invariably used4 ,when you use a quarter of a pound of beef suet1 a quarter of a lemon is amply sufficient4 ,to this quantity may be added a couple of tea-spoonfuls of dried mixed stuffing-herbs 7which can be bought in bottles at ,covent ,garden ,market71 two ounces of lean ham1 rather more than a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs1 two eggs1 a little chopped parsley 7about a tea-spoonful or rather more71 and a little grated nutmeg1 salt1 and cayenne pepper4 ,mince all the ingredients very finely together1 and pound them afterwards in a mortar4 ,a very nice stuffing for turkeys can be made from chestnuts1 but space will not allow me to enter into further details4 ,in conclusion1 let me add1 let ,christmas come as a blessing1 and not as a curse4 ,the demon ,alcohol is abroad at this holy season1 and many know that they require an archangel's strength to trample him underfoot4 ,let the law of each feast be regulated like that of the wise ,eastern monarch3 8,none did compel40 ,let every one on ,christmas ,eve endeavour to find some case of distress which it is real and not false charity to alleviate4 ,he will doubly enjoy his own dinner who can think that some one but for him would have gone without4 ,it is such deeds that entitle us to say-- ---- ---- ---- ----8,that his bones1 ,when he has run his course1 and sleeps in blessings1 ,may have a tomb of orphans' tears wept on 'em40 ,,christmas ,,cheer4 ,there is something sacred in the very name of home to every true-born ,englishman1 and1 as we should naturally expect from the hallowing influence of this holy season of the year1 home seems doubly sacred on ,christmas ,day4 ,how many thousand families throughout the land are united but once a year6 what efforts1 too1 do some make1 so that on their great annual holiday they may once again find shelter under the old and loving parental wings6 ,but let us this year anticipate the day's festivities1 and ,christmas ,eve finds us once again reunited round the fire1 on which the log is heaped1 and crackles brightly3 for no one1 unless by abject poverty compelled1 would have a poor fire on ,christmas ,eve4 ,the fresh-cut holly glistens on the wall1 the curtains are drawn1 and the grey-haired1 bright-eyed old man1 as he glances round the circle1 his voice too full almost to speak1 yet feels an inner comfort difficult to describe--a feeling partly of thankfulness1 partly of resignation1 as he looks forward to the fast-approaching time when the places that know him now shall know him no more for ever4 ,for it has been well said that children1 though they increase the cares of life1 yet mitigate the remembrance of death4 ,but such a good old-fashioned circle round the fire on such a night would not be complete without a steaming bowl of something hot1 to drink a toast in memory of yet another happy gathering in the old house at home4 ,so1 while the party assembled listen to the distant sound of the waits1 or perhaps to the still preferable music of the bird of dawn--which recalls one of the brightest gems that have dropped from the pen of our greatest poet--we will1 after repeating the lines1 step down-stairs1 and brew a bowl of bishop3-- 8,some say that ever1 that season comes ,wherein our ,saviour's birth is celebrated1 ,this bird of dawning singeth all night long3 ,and then1 they say1 no spirit dares stir abroad3 ,the nights are wholesome2 then no planets strike1 ,no fairy takes1 nor witch hath power to charm1 ,so hallowed and so gracious is the time40 ,bishop1 a good old-fashioned drink1 whose nose has1 so to speak1 been somewhat put out of joint by mulled claret since that beverage has become so cheap1 is best made as follows3--,first take a small lemon1 and at this season of the year they will be easily obtained white and new4 ,first wash the lemon in a little warm water1 and then stick into it a dozen or more cloves1 and make the lemon hot by placing it in a plate in the oven1 or better still1 by suspending it from a string in front of the fire1 taking care that the lemon does not hang too close1 so as to get so hot as to split4 ,next take a little water1 about a tumblerful1 and pour it into an enamelled saucepan1 and add to it a stick of cinnamon about six inches long--of course1 breaking up the cinnamon2 also put in the juice of a small lemon1 one blade of mace1 a quarter of a nutmeg grated1 and four lumps of sugar that have been rubbed over the skin of a fresh pale-looking lemon4 ,put a lid on the saucepan1 and let these spices boil on the fire gently for half an hour1 or a little more4 ,next take a bottle of port wine1 and decant it gently1 in case of sediment1 in the ordinary way2 heat this in a saucepan1 but do not let it boil2 as soon as it is hot1 pour the wine into a bowl previously made thoroughly hot with hot water1 add the liquor of the spices and lemon-juice through a strainer1 place the hot lemon in the bishop1 and grate a little fresh nutmeg over the top1 and add sufficient sugar to the whole1 according to the tastes of the party4 ,of course1 this is a somewhat strong mixture1 and is certainly not altogether suited for children in any quantity4 ,however1 by adding more boiling water and more sugar it can soon be made weaker4 ,of course1 the proper vessel into which the bishop should be poured is a punch-bowl4 ,unfortunately1 punch-bowls are somewhat rare4 ,if the party is tolerably large1 a wash-hand basin makes a very fair substitute4 ,of course1 you would pick a small one1 and as ornamental as possible4 ,now1 a thick basin requires a good deal of warming1 so should you adopt my suggestion1 recollect to fill the basin with boiling water some time before it is wanted4 ,in lieu of a punch-ladle1 the soup-ladle will be found a worthy substitute4 ,i would also remind you of warming the glasses1 not only for the sake of keeping the bishop hot1 but to avoid breakages4 ,in cold weather1 especially when it is frosty1 pouring any hot liquid into a cold glass is very apt to end in cracking it4 ,the bowl too1 should be placed in front of the fire on a hassock in the centre of the family circle4 ,mulled claret is made in a very similar manner to bishop1 only no roasted lemon is required4 ,take a small quantity of water1 and boil in it for some time the same quantity of cinnamon and mace as recommended for the bishop1 but do not put in any lemon juice4 ,after this has boiled for some time1 add some white sugar--a dozen lumps or more1 for claret requires a far greater amount of sugar than port4 ,after adding the sugar1 do not boil up the water and spices1 as the addition of the sugar makes it extremely likely to boil over4 ,next warm a bottle of claret on the fire1 taking care1 as before1 not to let it boil4 ,when it is thoroughly hot1 strain off the sweetened and spiced water1 and add a little grated nutmeg1 and a table-spoonful of pale brandy4 ,if you have a large jug with a strainer in the spout1 there is no occasion to strain off the spices4 ,mulled claret is generally put into a jug1 and not into a bowl4 ,there is a good old-fashioned sound about the 8wassail-bowl40 ,i have never tried the following recipe1 but will give it1 as it sounds fairly correct3--,heat in a saucepan a pint of ,burton ale1 with half a pound of sugar1 a grated nutmeg1 and half an ounce of grated ginger2 after it has just boiled up1 add a quart more ale1 four glasses of golden sherry1 and a couple of ounces of lump sugar that has been rubbed over the outside of a lemon4 ,add also a few thin slices of lemon4 ,make the whole mixture hot without boiling it1 and add half a dozen roasted apples that have had the cores stamped out and cut1 but that have not been peeled4 ,of course1 this must be placed in a bowl1 which must be treated1 as we said1 with hot water4 ,the sort of ale that must be used for the wassail-bowl is evidently strong old ale1 like ,burton or ,edinburgh1 and ,i should think the more sweet and oily the ale the better the wassail4 ,mild ale or bitter ale would not answer1 especially the latter4 ,i have on previous occasions gone into the mysteries of mince pies and plum pudding1 as well as into turkey-stuffing and goose-stuffing4 ,how to roast a sirloin of beef1 though important1 is too well known to warrant many words4 ,there is1 however1 no season in the year in which cold roast beef is so plentiful as the day after ,christmas ,day4 ,now1 though cold roast beef really does not want any sauce at all1 yet there is one that so admirably suits it that ,i think it is well worth mentioning at the present season4 ,i refer to horseradish sauce4 ,horseradish sauce used to be made by mixing together grated horseradish with sugar1 mustard1 vinegar1 and cream4 ,there has1 however1 been an admirable modern invention called ,swiss milk1 preserved in tins4 ,when1 therefore1 you have any compound requiring cream and sugar1 by using ,swiss milk with ordinary milk you get an exactly similar result1 at a far less cost4 ,to make horseradish sauce proceed as follows3--,take a stick or two of horseradish1 and send it through a coarse grater till you have sufficient pulp to fill1 say1 a couple of tablespoons4 ,this grating process1 like chopping onions1 is far from pleasant1 as it makes one cry4 ,next dissolve about a tea-spoonful of ,swiss milk in a little ordinary milk--say two table-spoonfuls of the latter--and mix in about a tea-spoonful of made mustard and a tea-spoonful of vinegar1 then mix in the two table-spoonfuls of horseradish pulp1 and stir it all together4 ,the consistency should be that of good thick cream2 of course1 by adding more pulp the mixture will be rendered thicker4 ,should it be too sweet1 of course it is owing to there being too much ,swiss milk1 and as ,swiss milk is apt to vary somewhat in sweetness1 it is as well to act cautiously in using it1 as it is always easy to add1 but impossible to take away4 ,some persons1 when serving horseradish with hot beef or hot rump steak1 warm the sauce2 this is a great mistake1 as by warming the sauce you utterly spoil it1 and to my mind render it absolutely disagreeable4 ,in speaking of ,christmas dinners last year1 ,i mentioned that an exceedingly nice stuffing for turkeys can be made from chestnuts4 ,as anything in connection with turkeys is very apropos of the present season1 ,i will describe how to make chestnut stuffing and chestnut sauce4 ,for a large turkey1 take about sixty chestnuts and slit the skins1 and fry them for a short time in a little butter in a frying-pan till their husks come off easily4 ,then boil the chestnuts in some good strong stock till quite tender2 take one-half and pound it in a mortar1 with a little pepper and salt and scraped fat bacon2 stuff a turkey with this and an equal quantity of ordinary veal stuffing or sausage-meat4 ,with regard to the sauce1 take the remainder of the chestnuts and mix them with some good strong gravy1 rubbing the whole through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon2 a couple of lumps of sugar and a glass of sherry are an improvement4 ,of course1 the best stuffing of all for turkeys is made from truffles1 but then they are so expensive1 as a rule1 that the recipe would not be practical4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,xvii4--,,turtle ,,soup4 ,there can be no doubt but that the season of ,christmas is especially associated with eating and drinking4 ,the most approved ,english method of exhibiting 8goodwill towards men10 is by asking them to dinner4 ,how many families there are with poor relations1 in one respect resembling ,christmas itself3 they only come but once a year6 ,the hallowing influence of this holy season may be seen in all classes4 ,the haughty relax somewhat of their pride1 and have what is called quite a family party--often the event of the year to the children of the above-mentioned poor relations4 ,how much more of true enjoyment to the giver is there1 however1 in this dinner than in some of a different nature during the height of the season6 ,so gracious and so hallowed is this time1 that the miser relaxes1 though reluctantly1 his purse-strings2 the workhouse-master approaches nearer to a man and a brother4 ,the weary and heavy-laden prisoner is1 in his fare1 reminded once again of the outer world from which he is debarred4 ,and even the hobnailed-booted ruffian refrains from kicking his wife on ,christmas ,day4 ,but the part of ,christmas with which we are more especially concerned is the dinner-party4 ,and our endeavour will be to help and advise that large class1 the very backbone of ,english society1 whose status may perhaps be best described by saying that they are blessed with neither poverty nor riches4 ,to the really poor1 the ,christmas dinner is very dependent on the poor man's friend1 the baker's oven4 ,early on the day the goose is carried there1 prepared often in the somewhat primitive fashion of a heap of sage and onion on one side of the dish1 and a pile of potatoes on the other4 ,it is to be trusted that the baker's man is an honest one4 ,a small piece cut off each joint of meat before baking1 on ,sunday1 too often maintains the man for the week4 ,the poor know to their cost how much meat will shrink in the baking4 ,on ,christmas ,day the number of geese sent to each baker's is something extraordinary4 ,an ingenious baker once solved the following problem3--,how to make a very small goose into a very large one4 ,he purchased the smallest and cheapest that could be found1 and substituted it for the smallest one sent to him to bake4 ,by the simple method of making each person have the next smallest goose to the one he sent1 the baker retained for himself the finest of the lot4 ,but we will now soar into the more aristocratic region of mock-turtle soup and boiled cod-fish1 roast sirloin of beef1 boiled turkey and oyster sauce1 plum pudding and mince pies4 ,at least1 we think we have heard of such dishes at this season of the year as being occasionally used4 ,however1 one word of warning4 ,the following awful catastrophe actually occurred3 ,scene--,a dinner-party4 ,time--,soon after ,christmas4 ,host--,a nephew1 with a wife and very large family4 ,important ,guest--,an uncle1 rich--very rich2 a bachelor2 elderly1 but irritable4 ,at the moment the covers are taken off1 he rises from the table1 wrath written on his brow3 8,i will stand it no longer2 give me my hat4 ,this is the twelfth day running ,i have had roast beef and boiled turkey4 ,i'll stand it no longer60 ,exit in a rage4 ,now1 as ,i said in my last article1 there is such a demand for mock-turtle soup about ,christmas-time that calves' heads have been known to fetch a guinea apiece2 but every housekeeper knows how exceedingly expensive they are at this season4 ,the change1 however1 of real turtle soup for mock is in the opinion of most people a change for the better1 and we will fulfil the promise we made in another article1 and describe as clearly as we can how to make real turtle soup from the dried turtle flesh1 at a less cost than mock-turtle soup can be made from calves' head when the latter is very dear4 ,the first thing to be done is1 of course1 to purchase some of the dried flesh1 which is generally about ten shillings a pound1 and can be obtained from any of the large ,london provision-merchants--and is occasionally kept by the better-class grocers4 ,now the general fault that we have found people express in regard to cookery-books1 is that they invariably describe how to make such large quantities that the recipes are only adapted to hotels4 ,it is evident1 too1 that if a cook can make three pints of soup1 she could make three gallons4 ,we will therefore describe how to make a small quantity of turtle soup--viz41 three pints1 which1 by-the-by1 is amply sufficient for ten people1 or even more4 ,let those who doubt this--and they will be many--go at once1 and see how many ladlefuls there are in a pint--the average is five4 ,now1 at the commencement of a good dinner one ladleful is ample for each person4 ,three pints of soup would therefore give fifteen people one help each1 but of course it would not do to have only just enough4 ,beau ,brummel once said that he would never speak to a man again who came twice for soup2 but he would be a brave man who would risk no one asking for more1 when the party is a family one at ,christmas-time1 and the soup real turtle4 ,first1 the turtle-flesh must be obtained at least three days before the soup is required4 ,suppose1 then1 a quarter of a pound to be in hand4 ,it has somewhat the appearance of glue4 ,place it in a basin of cold water about the temperature of a hot summer's day1 and let the basin1 which had better be covered with a plate1 be kept in a warm place1 such as a top shelf in the kitchen4 ,the very last thing before the cook leaves the kitchen for the night1 or when the kitchen fire has got low1 and will have no more coals put on it1 is for the basin to be placed in the oven4 ,this is especially necessary in winter4 ,in the morning the basin must be taken out before the fire is lit1 and the water changed--i4e41 the flesh1 which will be found to be a little swollen1 put into fresh cold water1 and if it smells rather offensively--somewhat like high fish--there is no harm in rubbing it all over gently with a lump of salt4 ,this soaking process had best be continued for three days and nights1 at the end of which period the flesh will be1 comparatively speaking1 soft1 especially the thinner pieces4 ,the last twelve hours the water may be quite warm1 but not hotter than that the cook's hand can be borne in it without inconvenience4 ,the turtle-flesh must be then cut up into small pieces about two inches square1 and boiled for about twelve hours in some stock prepared as follows--and it is in the preparation of this stock that the real secret of making good turtle soup lies4 ,now1 turtle soup requires far stronger stock than is required for ordinary soup1 and it should be borne in mind that it is always considered a great luxury1 and when purchased ready-made the usual price is a guinea a quart4 ,i have mentioned this1 as ,i consider in the present day an apology is due for recommending the buying of gravy-beef for making soups for small families where economy is of the slightest moment4 ,it is1 as a rule1 quite unnecessary4 ,but to proceed--we consider real turtle rather an exception to general rules3-- ,take a pound and a half of gravy-beef1 an equal quantity of knuckle of veal1 and one slice of lean raw ham1 and place them in a large saucepan1 which we will suppose to be perfectly clean1 lid as well4 ,place in also the following3--,one head of celery1 two onions--one of which has half a dozen cloves stuck in it--a small turnip and carrot1 about as much parsley as would fill a tea-cup1 two tea-spoonfuls of dried marjoram1 two tea-spoonfuls of dried basil1 half a tea-spoonful of lemon-thyme1 and rather less than half a tea-spoonful of a herb called pennyroyal4 ,all these herbs can be obtained at ,covent-,garden ,market in sixpenny and shilling bottles1 the latter herb being sold by the bunch4 ,add a small tea-spoonful of salt and a little cayenne pepper1 bearing in mind that these last commodities vary considerably in strength1 and that it is always easy to add more1 but impossible to take back4 ,fill the saucepan1 which ought to be a gallon one1 nearly full with cold water4 ,put it on the fire to simmer gently for at least twelve hours1 occasionally skimming off any scum that may have risen4 ,unless the above has been placed on the fire early in the morning1 it will be necessary to continue the operation of extracting the flavour and goodness from the meat1 herbs1 c41 the following day1 in which case recollect that the whole must be turned out into a large basin at night1 and covered over with a cloth4 ,inexperienced cooks would do well to bear in mind the following maxim3--,if soup be left in the saucepan all night1 it will be utterly spoilt4 ,when the above has simmered long enough1 and has been reduced by this means to about two quarts1 it must be carefully strained into a basin1 and all the fat removed in the usual way4 ,we would then recommend as follows1 premising that it is not absolutely necessary1 though a great improvement1 mentioning this as in some parts of the country the ingredient could not be obtained4 ,get1 if possible1 a couple of pounds of conger-eel1 and boil it in the stock for an hour or more2 this had better be done where conger-eel is readily obtained1 and cheap4 ,where1 however1 it is not1 get for the previous day's lunch1 or dinner1 a pound or a pound and a half of the ordinary fresh eels2 cut them into small pieces about two inches long1 and let them boil gently in the stock till they are quite tender4 ,take them out with a strainer1 throw them into a saucepan of boiling water for a minute1 and then place them in a dish with enough boiling water to cover them1 throwing in a couple of sprigs of fresh parsley4 ,it is an exceedingly nice dish1 often served at fish dinners1 and called eel souchet4 ,brown bread and butter should be handed with it4 ,by this means the soup gets a fish stock added to it1 and there is no waste1 as the fish is eaten4 ,of course the ordinary method of cooking the fish is to boil it in water4 ,when this is done it will be found that the water in which the fish is boiled1 when it is cold1 becomes quite a jelly4 ,now all this glutinous substance helps the soup4 ,the soup must be again carefully strained1 and1 if it is necessary1 cleared with a couple of whites of eggs1 and then run through a jelly-bag a few times in front of the fire4 ,the soup must then be placed in an enamelled saucepan1 and the turtle-flesh added to it and boiled till it is as tender as thoroughly-cooked calf's head2 during this process of boiling1 the soup will probably reduce itself to the desired quantity--viz41 about three pints2 to this must be then added a claret-glassful of madeira1 which can now be obtained really good at forty shillings a dozen from any respectable wine-merchant4 ,if1 however1 it is not thought necessary to have madeira bought on purpose--and it is a somewhat rare wine in the present day--a similar quantity of good golden sherry will do4 ,the soup is now done1 and only requires a few drops of lemon-juice added to it after it is put in the tureen4 ,one of the greatest mistakes in the use of wine for cooking is to think that any wine will do4 ,i have known cases where people have ordered a few bottles of what they chose to call cooking sherry from the grocers1 and filthy stuff it has been--enough to spoil anything4 ,if you think turtle soup does not deserve a glass of good wine1 my advice is1 do not make any4 ,it is no use adding a glass of some horrible concoction called sherry or madeira1 and then tasting the soup and saying1 8,ah6 it is not a bit like what we had at ,francatelli's40 ,of course it is not1 and you have only yourselves to blame4 ,the same thing applies to real mock-turtle4 8,what does he mean by real mock-turtle80 ,i can imagine you saying4 ,but we live and learn4 ,this is exactly the question ,i asked a waiter many years ago4 ,we were discussing the important subject of what ,i should have for dinner4 8,soup1 sir8 yes1 sir2 very nice mock-turtle sir--real mock-turtle1 sir40 ,this led to the disclosure--it was in the country--that it was made from calf's head1 not pig's head4 ,now1 more than three-parts of the mock-turtle soup sold in ,london--,i do not mean in the better-class hotels or restaurants--is made from pig's head1 and very nice it is too4 ,were it really made from calf's head1 it could not possibly be sold for the money4 ,at some future period1 when speaking on the all-important subject of 8economy0 in cooking1 ,i will give you the recipe4 ,half a pig's head can be bought for ninepence2 nine persons out of ten would not tell the difference between soup made from it and soup made from calf's head4 ,as the pieman said to ,sam ,weller1 8,it's the seasoning as does it40 ,in the above directions1 ,i have only mentioned what ,i consider absolutely essential4 ,when so many things are mentioned in recipes1 people are apt to despair of trying them4 ,however1 there are several little things that might be added to the above stock during the period of making cooking with advantage3 some chicken-bones1 bearing in mind that they must have no white sauce in connection with them1 or the soup will never be clear4 ,a mushroom would be another little improvement2 any odd scraps of meat1 especially roast meat1 may be added4 ,the only difference between clear turtle and thick is that the latter has some brown thickening added to it4 ,but it is1 in my opinion1 a great mistake to begin dinner with a thick soup1 which is a capital thing to lunch off in cold weather1 but it is apt to spoil the very best sauce--viz41 appetite4 ,the best recipe ,i know of for this sauce is exercise4 ,of course it is quite possible to have too much of a good thing1 and this was the opinion of a certain gentleman1 who once went out to dinner1 as follows3-- ,he was a short1 middle-aged gentleman1 with a waistcoat that conveyed the idea of having swallowed a water-melon4 ,he was not1 as may be imagined1 fond of exercise as a rule1 and consequently took a cab to go out to dinner4 ,unfortunately1 the cab was old and rotten1 and the bottom gave way and came clean out1 seat and all4 ,the unlucky man inside had consequently to trot the whole way through the mud4 ,as the cabman1 quite unconscious of what had happened1 drove on at a brisk pace1 the middle-aged gentleman fruitlessly endeavouring to attract his attention all the time4 ,on arriving at his destination1 his feelings1 as well as his legs1 can be better imagined than described4 ,cooking is a high art4 ,there was some great foreign ,minister1 ,i forget who1 who owed his great success as a diplomatist to his cook4 ,suppose1 for instance1 some young man required a little assistance from his father4 ,who1 in his senses1 would broach the subject half an hour before dinner8 ,no1 send home a woodcock1 and tell the cook to take great pains with it1 and send it up unexpectedly4 ,tell the butler to get up a particular bottle1 such as '#cd port1 or '#dh ,chteau ,margaux1 or a bottle of very old ,east ,india madeira4 ,wait till the old gentleman is about half-way through his bottle1 and then approach him with respectful and affectionate confidence4 ,i have got another recipe for an old aunt1 worth thousands4 ,it is1 as ,i say1 worth thousands--i4e41 if the aunt be old1 rich1 and capable of making a will4 ,yes1 ,i will tell1 and in so doing probably make hundreds of fortunes for others1 some of whom may perhaps some day recollect me4 ,the recipe is as follows3--,make the tipsy-cake with brandy4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,xviii4--,,fish ,,dinners4 ,we have discussed the subject of wedding breakfasts1 which are so similar to nice little suppers that we were unable1 when so doing1 to give many practical recipes2 but we will endeavour to make amends on the present occasion1 and will commence by blowing our own national trumpet1 by maintaining that we ,english1 in cooking fish1 beat the ,french as completely as they beat us in the making of entres4 ,there is ofttimes a connection between wedding breakfasts and fish dinners4 ,it has often happened that a little party of four or more have taken a run down the river to ,gravesend or ,north ,woolwich2 the fish dinner has been enjoyed1 the discussion on 8,what are whitebait80 concluded in the usual manner--viz41 that no one knows2 the well-iced cup has washed down the devilled bait2 the stroll on the balcony1 the cigar1 the water--perhaps the moon--the heavy shipping dropping slowly down the river1 c41 have followed in due course4 ,but we cannot always be running down the river2 but the happy little wife is suddenly seized with the following happy thought--8,suppose we have a fish dinner at home60 ,i will tell you how to do it1 right away from the flounders souchet down to the devilled whitebait at the finish1 and if you exercise a little judgment1 ,i can assure you that it is by no means so expensive or extravagant an affair as many think4 ,it must however1 be carefully borne in mind that the one secret of success in the management of a little dinner consisting of a variety of dishes is--forethought4 ,the cook should consequently divide the dinner into two distinct classes--viz41 those dishes which can be cooked beforehand--i4e41 in the morning of the day--and those which require cooking at the last moment4 ,to illustrate what ,i mean1 ,i would mention stewed eels and whitebait4 ,it is obvious that the first can be prepared hours beforehand1 and will simply require warming up1 but that the latter cannot be cooked till within a minute of its being sent to table4 ,i will now give a list of fish from which the fish dinner can be chosen1 but at the same time would strongly recommend1 where it is possible1 some common-sense person to go early in the morning to ,billingsgate ,market1 and pick out1 say1 half a dozen different kinds of fish1 of course choosing those that are in season1 and consequently cheapest3 flounders1 souchet and fried2 eels1 souchet1 fried1 and stewed2 salmon1 plain boiled and with piccalilly sauce2 red mullet1 en papillote2 soles1 filleted and fried2 whiting2 turbot1 boiled2 smelts2 lobster cutlets2 whitebait1 ordinary and devilled2 shrimps1 curried4 ,of course ,i do not mean that you are to have all these fish at once1 but as under ordinary circumstances it is almost impossible to get just what fish you may ask for1 ,i give a variety1 so that if one is not to be obtained1 you may have some others to fall back upon4 ,i would1 however1 at starting1 remind you that the dish in a fish dinner is the whitebait4 ,we will first start in the dining-room1 and suppose the time to be the hour of dinner4 ,the table is laid for four2 a green glass is placed1 in addition to an ordinary sherry one1 by the right-hand side of each person4 ,the sherry is tapped1 and let us trust it is dry1 and free from fire1 as sweet sherry is quite out of the question at a fish dinner4 ,we will also suppose a bottle of chablis or sauterne to be on the sideboard1 with a corkscrew run into the cork1 ready for drawing4 ,on the sideboard1 also1 are two plates1 containing plenty of thin brown bread and butter1 with not too much butter on the bread1 and that1 too1 really fresh1 without a turnipy flavour4 ,if you possess that comfort1 fish-knives1 all the better1 but dessert-knives do very well as a substitute4 ,we will suppose1 then1 two silver forks placed to each person1 and the remainder of the silver forks on the sideboard ready for use1 for recollect a series of fishes will soon exhaust even a large establishment of forks4 ,have ready1 therefore1 outside the door1 a large jug containing hot water and soda1 and a jug of ordinary water by its side4 ,as the forks are taken out of the room1 wipe them on a cloth1 plunge them into the hot soda and water1 and then into the ordinary water1 wipe them on a clean cloth1 and they are ready again for use4 ,half a dozen forks or more can be washed this way in half a minute4 ,we will next descend to the kitchen1 and we there find everything neatly arranged4 ,in the sink is already placed a large tub of boiling water and soda1 and by its side another tub or basin of cold water4 ,you will probably run short of plates1 and certainly will of vegetable-dishes1 and consequently ,i would recommend you1 if possible1 to borrow of a friend a couple of these latter dishes4 ,in front of the fire1 or on the hot-plate1 is a pile of hot plates4 ,the stewed eels are in a small stew-pan on the side of the fire2 the salmon and pickle sauce1 in another stew-pan1 ready2 the curry sauce is likewise ready1 say in a little egg-saucepan1 and a small basin on the dresser contains the shrimps ready picked4 ,the red mullet1 en papillote1 is ready in the tin in the oven1 and the lobster cutlets are also ready arranged to be what the cook calls 8popped in the oven0 at the proper moment4 ,but before going any further ,i will run as briefly as possible through the methods of preparing these dishes1 some of which have been described before1 but may have been forgotten4 ,first1 the stewed eels4 ,some good stock has been placed on the fire early in the morning1 and into it have been put some button mushrooms out of a tin1 and if possible a few very small spring onions2 the stock has been thickened with some brown thickening--i4e41 butter and flour fried a brown-colour2 to this have been added about a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup and another dessert-spoonful of port wine1 and a little cayenne pepper4 ,the eels have been cut into pieces about two inches long1 and placed in this and allowed to simmer slowly for an hour1 or longer2 the cook has then taken each piece of eel out very carefully1 so as not to break them1 and allowed the stock to boil up and settle2 this has been skimmed once or twice1 for a good deal of fat1 or what looks like it1 will be found on the top4 ,the eels have then been put back in the stew-pan1 and the whole allowed to simmer until the eels are as soft as possible1 when the dish is finished1 care being taken not to break the pieces when turned out4 ,next1 the salmon and pickle sauce4 ,this can be made from fish left the day before4 ,cut the cold salmon into pieces about three or four inches long and one and a half inches square1 and simply warm these pieces up in some good strong brown gravy to which has been added about half a tea-spoonful of ,worcester sauce1 and about half a tea-cupful of mixed hot pickles in which cucumber1 as indeed it generally does1 slightly preponderates2 take also care to have three or four chillies with it4 ,have the gravy a dark colour and well thickened1 so that the pieces of salmon may be covered with it2 a little arrowroot mixed with cold water may be added to the sauce in order to obtain the necessary thickness4 ,next1 the curry sauce in the little saucepan4 ,this may have been1 and should be1 made long before2 some curried mutton the day before for dinner will be found an advisable dish1 as the sauce left will do for the shrimps1 and a very little is necessary4 ,curry sauce is made by frying say six large onions in a stew-pan with butter till they are browned2 three large apples added1 and dissolved in it1 some brown gravy1 the whole thing rubbed through a tanning or sieve1 taking care that all the onion is rubbed through2 then a table-spoonful of curry paste and a dessert-spoonful of curry-powder added1 and the whole thickened with brown thickening to its proper consistency4 ,have ready1 hot1 about half a tea-cupful of this sauce1 add to it about half a salt-spoonful of anchovy sauce1 put the shrimps in it for one minute only1 turn them out1 and serve some plain boiled rice with them on a separate plate4 ,next1 the red mullet4 ,first take a piece of white foolscap paper1 and oil it all over1 next chop up a tea-spoonful of capers fine1 next cut up into slices about three ounces of butter1 lay the slices on the paper1 sprinkle half the chopped capers on it1 pepper and salt it1 and lay the mullet on the butter1 on its side1 put the rest of the butter on the top with the capers and a little more pepper and salt1 fold the paper over1 and fold the edges over and over1 so as to make the foolscap sheet of paper into the shape of those old-fashioned apple turnovers--a fat semi-circle2 put this into a tin greased at the bottom to prevent the paper sticking1 and put it in the oven4 ,a small mullet will bake in half an hour2 a very large one1 nearly an hour4 ,send the fish up to table in its paper4 ,if the butter or some of it has run out into the tin1 pour it into the dish on which you place the paper4 ,next1 the lobster cutlets4 ,these have1 of course1 been prepared before1 and only require making hot in the oven4 ,a lobster has been bought containing coral1 which coral has been pounded in a mortar with about the same quantity of butter1 and a pinch of cayenne1 and some of this has been added to the meat of the lobster1 pounded in a mortar with some more butter and some very finely-chopped onion and parsley1 a piece of the former about as big as the top of the thumb1 and a tea-spoonful of the latter1 being the proper quantities2 a little ordinary pepper and a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce have been added1 and the mass shaped into little pats about as large as oval picnic biscuits2 these have been egged over and covered with very fine bread-crumbs1 then fried in hot fat for about a couple of minutes1 and a little piece of red claw stuck into each at the finish by way of garnish4 ,now these five nice dishes are all ready1 and we presume the dishes have also been got ready to put them in4 ,first of all we will take flounders souchet4 ,pick out the smallest flounders you can1 boil them in some water with a little salt1 when tender take them out with a slice1 keeping the white side uppermost1 and place them in a vegetable-dish of boiling water1 drop into this water two or three little sprigs of clean double parsley1 and serve quickly1 handing round the brown bread and butter4 ,eel souchet can be done in exactly a similar manner4 ,the cook must now have ready two frying-pans1 one filled with hot boiling fat1 and the other with fresh lard for the whitebait1 to which we shall come by and by4 ,we shall now suppose the fish for frying ready on a dish on the dresser1 and we will take eels1 filleted sole1 flounders1 whitings1 smelts1 c42 now these must be all treated alike1 first they must be dried1 then floured1 then dipped in well-beaten-up egg1 then dipped in fine dry bread-crumbs1 and then sprinkled over with fine bright golden bread-raspings1 in order to insure the colour being right4 ,suppose the cook has just sent up the flounders souchet2 let the next course be fried eels1 and salmon and pickle sauce4 ,take the eels ready prepared and throw them into the boiling fat2 if the fat boil1 four or five minutes is ample time1 if the fat is deep enough to cover the fish4 ,take a hot vegetable-dish1 turn out the salmon and sauce into it1 and put on the cover2 next take a clean napkin and warm it1 and fold it up1 and put it on a hot dish2 hold a dish-cover to the fire for a minute1 and cover over the napkin2 take the eels out of the fat and put them for half a minute on to a hot coarse cloth to drain1 put them on the clean napkin with a few pieces of green parsley round1 and send them up with the salmon4 ,suppose the next course is turbot1 smelts1 and red mullet2 the turbot1 or rather a slice of one1 is supposed to be boiling in a saucepan2 take it out and put it on a cloth to drain2 take first half a dozen smelts and pop them into the fat you have just taken the eels out of2 a very short time will cook them4 ,place the turbot on a fish-napkin1 put a piece of parsley on the top of it1 and place the fried smelts round the edge4 ,the red mullet simply wants slipping off the tin on to an ordinary dish just as it is1 and the next course is done4 ,the lobster cutlets might be sent up with some fried fish instead1 as we presume no one would think of having all this fish at one dinner4 ,we therefore now come to the whitebait1 and will attempt to describe the secret of having this really delicious and delicate fish well cooked4 ,of course1 in the first place1 it is absolutely indispensable1 to have the fish perfectly fresh1 and in an unbroken state1 and it is on this account that whitebait is always had in the greatest perfection at the various hotels which overlook the river where the whitebait is caught4 ,we will suppose1 therefore1 the whitebait is ready4 ,now everything depends upon expedition4 ,the whitebait must be first dried and then plunged as speedily as possible into boiling fat4 ,first we will suppose ready on the fire a deep frying-pan full of boiling lard2 in order to insure the lard being sufficiently hot1 let a drop of water fall into it and see if it hisses2 next have ready a wire whitebait-basket1 then throw the whitebait into some fine dry flour on a cloth2 don't be afraid of having too much flour1 as in these water-side hotels the flour is an inch thick2 next shake the whitebait free of the flour in a wide sieve1 something like what is used for sifting oats2 this is for the purpose of getting rid as much as possible of the flour1 to avoid the whitebait being pasty and clammy4 ,next1 having put this floured whitebait into the wire basket1 plunge it into the boiling fat--one minute will more than suffice to cook it--throw it on to a hot cloth for a few seconds to drain1 and serve it very quickly4 ,whitebait sent to table properly should burn the mouth with fire-heat4 ,do not try and cook too many at a time1 as they are liable to stick together4 ,also shake the wire basket a little in cooking them1 for the purpose of avoiding this sticking-process2 and when they are thrown on to the cloth1 if you see one or two sticking together1 separate them4 ,properly cooked whitebait should be crisp1 but at the same time slightly soft in the middle1 when eaten4 ,there are two kinds of devilled whitebait--black devil and red devil2 the former consisting of adding black pepper in the middle of cooking2 and the latter1 black and cayenne mixed4 ,have the pepper1 whichever is fancied1 ready in a pepper-box1 lift the whitebait-basket out of the boiling fat1 shake it and pepper the whitebait at the same time1 put the basket back into the fat for a few seconds1 and then turn the whitebait out on to the cloth4 ,it will be found best to send up the whitebait in two dishes1 first the ordinary1 second the devilled2 thin brown bread and butter should be handed round with it1 besides some lemon cut into quarters4 ,it will sometimes be found that with whitebait are mixed a few shrimps or very small eels2 these should properly be removed before sending to table1 as they have the effect of destroying the appearance4 ,it may perhaps seem superfluous to add1 that whitebait requires no sauce1 yet the following conversation actually occurred at ,north ,woolwich1 where whitebait are caught and cooked in the greatest perfection3-- ,visitor4--8,waiter1 these whitebait are not so nice as they were last time40 ,waiter4--8,perhaps1 ma'am1 you would like them better if you did not take anchovy sauce40 ,on one occasion some persons demanded melted butter with their whitebait4 ,whitebait in perfection should be small1 but near the end of the season are1 of course1 far larger and by no means so delicate as in early spring4 ,waiters are proverbial for presence of mind1 and on one occasion1 when the whitebait was brought up1 about the size of sprats1 quietly answered the intended complaint of 8,waiter1 these whitebait are very large10 by saying--8,yes1 sir--very fine1 sir40 ,the curried shrimps are generally served last of all1 and then some meat--generally a roast fowl or duck--but1 as a rule1 no one eats much of this after all this fish4 ,in a private house it would be better to have a little cold roast beef and salad to finish up with1 as in ordinary kitchens a roast duck or fowl would be terribly in the way during cooking the dinner4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,xix4--,,wedding ,,breakfasts4 ,my chapter on wedding breakfasts must not consist in simply saying1 ,don't have one2 though ,i must in the name of common sense enter my protest against the vulgarity--for it is nothing else--of giving one out of proportion to the means of the giver4 ,where money is no object1 of course the simplest plan is to go to some first-rate confectioner's1 and let them supply the breakfast at so much a head4 ,where1 however1 economy is a necessity1 much can be done with a little good management to avoid waste4 ,i will give an instance of a wedding breakfast that took place during the last six months1 and the cost4 ,for it often happens that during the last week before the wedding there is so much to be done at home in the trousseau line that any elaborate cooking in the house is almost impossible4 ,the following bill of fare is one supplied for over sixty persons1 at #ads4 a head1 in ,february last3-- ,,potages4 ,printanier4 ,pure d',artichauts la ,palestine4 ,,entr,,es ,,chaudes4 ,chartreuse de ,homard la ,cardinal4 ,petites ,timbales la ,grande ,duchesse4 ,quenelle de ,volaille la ,sefton4 ,ctelettes de ,tortue4 -------- ,saumon la ,mayonnaise4 ,dindon aux ,truffes4 ,gelatine de ,veau la ,jardiniere4 ,langues de ,buf4 ,pts de ,faisans la ,franaise4 ,jambon1 brais4 ,poulets rtis4 ,faisans rtis4 ,anguilles en ,gele l',aspic4 ,petits ,pts aux ,huitres4 ,pt de ,foie-gras en ,aspic4 ,mayonnaise de ,filets de ,soles4 ,salades de ,homard4 -------- ,gteaux de ,fruit la ,richelieu4 ,fauchonette la ,prince de ,galles4 ,macdoine d',abricots4 ,geles de ,citron4 ,geles de ,marasquin4 ,crmes d',ananas4 ,petits ,choux la ,madre4 ,chartreuse d',orange a la ,tangier4 ,gele la ,dauphine4 ,meringue la ,suisse4 ,petites ,patisseries la ,bonne-bouche4 ,meringues ,crme la ,curaoa4 ,fruit1 c4 c4 ,glacs4 ,boudins la ,princesse ,alice ,maude4 ,now a breakfast like this1 including as it does two soups and four hot entres1 cannot as a rule be done in a private house4 ,this of course does not include wine2 and when the breakfast is ordered from a pastrycook's1 ,i would always recommend the wine to be supplied from the home cellar4 ,a first-class cold breakfast from a good pastrycook's1 with soup and ices1 will cost about #abs4 #f;d4 a head2 and unless the weather be really very hot1 soup is always desirable4 ,without soup and ices1 a saving of about #as4 a head can be made4 ,there are many persons1 however1 who cannot afford even so much as #ajs4 a head for a breakfast from the pastrycook's4 ,when1 therefore1 the breakfast is made at home1 it had better be all cold except the soup2 and the great secret of success will be found to be in the old adage--8,never put off till the morrow what can be done to-day40 ,have plenty of flowers1 and if summer-time1 have plenty of ice4 ,were ,i to go through a set of dishes1 ,i should simply be repeating what ,i have already said under the heading of 8,how to ,give a ,nice ,little ,supper40 ,fruit1 flowers1 and ice make the greatest and best show possible for the money4 ,then1 too1 a few dishes can be bought which are not easily made at home4 ,some of those ,italian shops where they sell ices have excellent meringues very cheap4 ,perhaps the greatest sacrifice of all to that monster1 ,custom1 is the wedding-cake4 ,i suppose there never will be a case of a couple sufficiently strong-minded to forego themselves this luxury1 on the ground of 8what would people say80 ,unless the cake required be very large1 it is by no means a difficult thing to make at home1 and it can be sent to be baked at the baker's1 who will probably know it only requires a moderate heat1 and that the oven should be kept at an even temperature all through the baking-process4 ,take first of all some candied peel1 orange1 lemon1 and citron1 lb4 of each1 and cut them into small1 thin shreds2 #alb4 of flour2 #alb4 of butter2 #alb4 of dried cherries1 which should be cut up1 but not too fine2 #alb4 of currants1 which must be thoroughly washed1 picked1 and afterwards dried2 #hoz4 of almonds1 well pounded2 eight eggs2 the rind of four oranges rubbed on to sugar2 oz4 of spices1 consisting of ground cinnamon1 nutmegs1 and cloves in equal proportions2 about a tea-spoonful of salt1 and half a pint of good brandy4 ,the butter should be well worked with a wooden spoon in a large1 strong basin1 till it has a sort of creamy appearance4 ,the flour1 eggs1 and sugar should be added slowly1 while the spoon must be kept working the whole time4 ,after this has been thoroughly well mixed1 the rest of the ingredients mentioned may be added1 only a little at a time1 to insure the whole quantity being properly mixed up4 ,when this is done1 it should be poured into a tin hoop1 placed on a metal baking-sheet4 ,two sheets of well-buttered paper must be placed on the baking-sheet underneath1 and the hoop itself must be lined with a double band of well-buttered paper1 or else the cake will be sure to burn round the edges4 ,the cake may now be taken off to the baker's oven1 and as it will keep good for a long time1 and in fact improve in flavour by keeping1 it should be made some time beforehand4 ,the icing of the cake should not be done till a short time beforehand1 as it of course has a tendency to get dirty4 ,first the almond part--the only part of a wedding cake1 to my mind1 worth eating4 ,take lb4 of almonds1 and having skinned them by throwing them into boiling water1 rubbing off the skins and then throwing them into cold water in order that they may not lose their colour1 pound them very thoroughly in a mortar with #alb4 of the finest white sugar1 add a very little orange-water1 and sufficient white of eggs to make it all into a soft paste2 but take care not to fall into the common fault of making the paste too soft4 ,this paste may now be spread over the top of the cake1 taking care to avoid its getting over the edge as much as possible1 and the cake must be placed in a dry place4 ,when the paste is sufficiently hard1 the whole may then be iced over with sugar as follows3--,take six whites of eggs1 and add to them about #alb4 of very finely sifted1 powdered white sugar4 ,the whitest sugar must be chosen for the purpose4 ,this must be worked well together with a wooden spoon1 and a very little lemon-juice now and then dropped in while it is being worked4 ,the mixture should properly have a shiny appearance1 and if it is not thick enough it only requires a little more powdered sugar4 ,this must now be put all over the cake to about a quarter of an inch in thickness4 ,some little skill will be necessary in order to avoid unseemly ridges in the icing on the top of the cake1 which when covered must be put in a warm place in order to allow the icing to dry2 only be sure to put a piece of paper as soon as possible lightly over the top1 as should the dust settle while it is drying1 the cake will not have that snow-white appearance it should have4 ,little knobs of icing may be arranged round the edge to make the cake more ornamental1 and on the day of the wedding a simple wreath of white flowers and green leaves will be found quite sufficient an ornament2 in fact1 a plain wreath of orange-blossoms1 when it can be obtained1 looks far better than any more elaborate attempt at ornament4 ,a wedding-cake is an expensive thing to make at home1 but a far more expensive thing to buy4 ,for a highly-ornamented wedding-cake almost fabulous prices are asked2 and there is something very satisfactory in having it made at home4 ,a little ingenuity will easily enable any one whose fingers are gifted to make a small round centre ornament with glazed white cardboard1 a little silver paper1 and orange-blossom4 ,when the cake is large1 something raised in the centre is a great set-off to its appearance4 ,i trust what ,i have written may be the means of enabling some young couples to start in the world with some extra #bj or #cj in pocket than otherwise2 but it is not so much to them that ,i would speak as to the conscience of the old boy1 the bride's father1 that ,i would address my remarks4 ,you know you are really a little proud of what you think is getting your daughter off your hands respectably4 ,you know1 too1 that you have never opened so many bottles of champagne in all your life before4 ,you know1 too1 that many members of your son-in-law's family will visit your house on this occasion1 that will probably never visit it again4 ,now has that fact anything to do with all this outlay1 which you know you can't afford8 ,very likely3 but then it is really very snobbish4 ,no1 paterfamilias1 don't show off1 and no one will think a whit the worse of you for it4 ,pocket your #ej1 give quite a plain breakfast--no champagne at all--brave the world1 and then furnish a room in the new house with the money1 and instead of calling it 8the breakfast-room10 call it 8the wedding-breakfast room40 ,one word in conclusion4 ,if you will give champagne1 give it good1 or they will all laugh at you--they will indeed1 they will laugh4 ,young men1 bachelor friends of your son-in-law1 will say1 8,did you taste that fellow's wine8 ,wasn't it awful80--which will call forth the remark1 8,ah1 ,i don't suppose he had opened many before40 ,therefore1 whatever you do1 give good champagne1 or none4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,xx4--,,food ,,for ,,invalids4 ,the sick-room--what echoes does not the very name awaken in the memories of the past6 ,there are few moments in our lives' history more solemn than those when we have watched by the bedside of one we love1 whose life is trembling in the balance1 and whose soul and body seem held together by so slight a thread that a breath of wind would part them4 ,what vows have we not vowed1 what good resolutions have we not formed1 and how chastened have our minds been in these our hours of agony6 for of very truth 8adversity doth best discover virtue40 ,then--the doctor's visit4 ,with what an anxious look will the wife1 wearied with watching1 try and read his eyes as he feels the pulse of the languid patient6 what a rush of joy fills her heart1 as she sees the doctor smile6 for hope is brightest when it dawns from fears4 ,the crisis is past1 the patient is pronounced much better1 and is ordered some good strong beef-tea4 ,with burning eyes and bursting heart the thankful wife turns away to give the necessary orders1 not forgetful1 let us trust1 of her vows vowed1 of her resolutions made1 or of the ,great ,physician who alone can cause the blind to see and the lame to walk4 ,like a calm sea to the tempest-tost1 like a draught of water after parching thirst1 like a bed of down to the wearied traveller1 do these sweet hours of convalescence follow after those weary ones of watching1 when hope deferred made the heart sick-- 8,oh6 these were hours1 when thrilling joy repaid ,a long1 long course of darkness1 doubts1 and fears40 ,what pleasure1 too1 to watch the patient take his first cup of beef-tea or his first chop with evident enjoyment1 and to see the faint tinge of colour return to the pale cheeks1 foretelling of returning health and strength1 as surely as the first blush of dawn upon the eastern mountain-tops foretells the coming day6 ,again1 too1 the refreshment taken1 the first long sound sleep1 nature's great restorer1 how different to watch now1 to when the restless patient tossed and turned and muttered1 and seemed to suffer more than when awake6 ,there is something very beautiful in a calm and tranquil sleep-- 8,an infant when it gazes on the light1 ,a child the moment when it drains the breast1 99 99 99 99 99 ,feel rapture1 but not such true joy are reaping ,as they who watch o'er what they love while sleeping4 8,for there it lies1 so tranquil1 so beloved1 ,all that it hath of life with us is living1 ,so gentle1 stirless1 helpless1 and unmoved1 ,and all unconscious of the joy 'tis giving40 ,but let us leave the convalescent chamber with the watcher and the watched1 and descend to the kitchen1 and see what we there can do to help on the recovery so happily going on above4 ,first let us take that probably most valuable of all invalids' preparations--viz41 beef-tea4 ,the quickest and best method of preparing good beef-tea is as follows3--,take a pound of good lean gravy-beef1 cut it up into little pieces1 pour over them a pint of cold water1 and add a little salt4 ,then take a fork and squeeze these pieces in every direction1 in order1 as much as possible1 to extract the juices out of the pieces of meat4 ,next place it all--i4e41 water and meat--in an enamelled saucepan1 and place it by the side of the fire1 not on the fire1 and gradually heat it1 taking the greatest care that it does not boil4 ,having continued this process for about an hour and a half or two hours1 during the last half-hour keeping the beef-tea hot without boiling1 strain the whole off through a strainer1 pressing the meat again with a spoon1 so as to squeeze as much as possible all the goodness out of it4 ,then remove all the fat4 ,this can be done by carefully skimming it1 or1 if time will allow1 by letting it get cold1 when the fat will harden on the top4 ,now1 to my mind good beef-tea is one of the nicest things we can take when ill1 but sick persons often tire of it1 and loathe it4 ,when this is the case1 very often by adding a little sherry1 and allowing it to get cold--when1 if properly made1 it will be a jelly--patients will take it in this form when they could not in the liquid state4 ,veal broth and mutton broth are made on exactly the same principles as beef-tea1 of course substituting either veal or mutton for the beef1 and taking equal care to remove all the fat1 and not to let the liquor boil4 ,another method of making beef-tea very simply1 in a way in which no careful watching is required1 is to cut up a pound of gravy-beef as before1 and simply put it with a pint of water into a stone jar1 and put the jar in the oven2 if the oven is not too hot--i4e41 not hot enough to absolutely make the liquid boil in the jar--this way will be found to be very good4 ,or the jar may be tied over with a cloth1 and placed in a large saucepan of boiling water on the fire1 the water in the saucepan to be kept gently simmering4 ,very often young children1 and even babies1 are ordered beef-tea4 ,now all mothers know the difficulty at times of inducing sick children to take anything1 and beef-tea by no means recommends itself to a child's appetite4 ,forcing food down a child's throat against its will should never be resorted to1 save as a last resource1 and at the doctor's order4 ,there are many means1 however1 by which little children can be persuaded to take things1 which sensible mothers probably know of4 ,in the case of beef-tea an admirable plan is1 instead of using salt1 use a little sugar1 and make the beef-tea sweet4 ,grown-up persons would probably consider such a mixture nasty to a degree2 not so1 however1 the child4 ,young children have a natural taste for sweet things1 and a natural dislike to salt4 ,in very early life the food that nature has supplied for children is sweet4 ,salt1 on the other hand1 is decidedly an acquired taste4 ,our dear old friend ,robinson ,crusoe had considerable difficulty in inducing his man ,friday to eat salt2 and when he did1 it was only in very small quantities4 ,the next dish of importance for consideration is arrowroot4 ,first ,i would strongly recommend the ,bermuda arrowroot1 and not the ,st4 ,vincent2 the latter is cheaper1 but very inferior in quality4 ,bad arrowroot is absolutely unwholesome1 and a good deal of the bad arrowroot--too bad1 in fact1 to be sold as arrowroot at all--is1 ,i fear1 used to mix with and adulterate corn-flour4 ,the first point to ascertain is whether the patient will take the arrowroot thick or thin2 some persons have strong prejudices on this point1 and thick arrowroot will require double the quantity of thin4 ,arrowroot is also made with water and milk1 but the method is the same for both4 ,take a spoonful or two of cold water or milk1 as the case may be1 and mix in the powdered arrowroot in the cup or basin1 and stir it up thoroughly2 then pour the boiling water or milk slowly on to it1 keeping it stirred the whole time4 ,a little sugar may be added1 and of course1 when allowable1 a little wine or brandy is a great improvement4 ,when made with milk1 a little grated nutmeg on the top also vastly improves the compound both in flavour and appearance4 ,a great deal of the prepared cocoa sold is simply cocoa and arrowroot mixed1 consequently when the boiling water is poured on1 the arrowroot causes the cocoa to look thick and nourishing4 ,if you want to make a good cup of chocolate out of cake chocolate1 all you have to do is to mix a little arrowroot in the cup with it1 and the result will be that the chocolate will appear to be ten times as strong as it would otherwise do4 ,with regard to chicken broth1 that fashionable invalid's preparation many years ago1 we ought to say a few words1 and these few will be unfavourable4 ,there is1 comparatively speaking1 but little nourishment in it4 ,in any case1 however1 should you make any1 bear in mind that it is the bones1 and not the flesh1 that make the broth2 so instead of wasting the whole fowl over the broth1 cut off the meat1 which can be made into nice rissoles or mince1 and use the bones only for the broth4 ,now minced mutton or chicken is often recommended for invalids1 as being easily digested2 but pray remember that invalid mince is very different from the ordinary mince of every-day life4 ,in the first place1 we all know that in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred mince is made from meat that has been cooked before4 ,now mince so made1 though very nice and wholesome for persons and children in ordinary health1 yet is by no means so easy of digestion--i4e41 the remains of a leg of mutton minced the second day would be less digestible than the cut off the joint on the first day1 the warming-up process having naturally a tendency to harden the meat4 ,to make nice mince for an invalid1 the meat must be minced raw4 ,it must then be sprinkled with a little salt1 moistened with a little good broth1 and warmed slowly with the greatest care1 as1 should the broth boil for one second1 the mince will be rendered tough and indigestible4 ,it is obvious that mince made this way differs enormously from the ordinary mince4 ,a very few minutes is sufficient1 if the meat has been minced fine1 to cook it--in fact1 as soon as it is hot it is done4 ,mince made in this manner is exceedingly nutritious1 and it will often be found that weak digestions can take this when they can take nothing else4 ,our two next preparations will be barley-water and toast-and-water4 ,two very simple things1 it will probably be thought1 and very unnecessary to describe4 ,i will describe them1 however1 first as they generally are1 and next as they ought to be4 ,how very often do you find the barley-water dirty6 ,for instance1 when you drink it out of a tumbler1 you come to some black-looking stuff at the bottom4 ,again1 how often do you find the toast-and-water thick1 instead of bright6 and far less appetising is it when it is so4 ,now both these defects arise from thoughtlessness or want of care4 ,first1 then1 barley-water4 ,take a couple of ounces of pearl barley and wash it thoroughly1 and then place it in some boiling water1 and boil it for about ten minutes4 ,this has the effect of dissolving the outside of the barley4 ,strain it off1 and put it into a couple of quarts of fresh boiling water1 and let it boil gently till it has nearly half boiled away4 ,then strain it off1 and flavour it with a little sugar and lemon-juice1 putting in a small piece of peel4 ,barley-water is often made too thick4 ,patients1 especially feverish ones1 want something to drink4 ,by adding water to it1 it can1 of course1 be made as thin as wished4 ,barley-water should be kept in a jug1 with a spoon in it1 and stirred up each time before it is poured out1 and only the quantity required poured out1 as it settles and does not look nice--milky at the bottom and watery at the top4 ,next1 toast-and-water4 ,first1 8how not to do it40 ,you will find a servant generally cut off a knobby piece of crust1 stick a toasting-fork in it1 and toast it very black1 put this in a jug1 and pour boiling water over it1 and this great hunk of bread will be floating at the top4 ,this toast-and-water will be poor1 muddy-looking1 and have a slightly floury taste4 ,the proper method is to cut the bread thin1 and toast both sides thoroughly1 and also have plenty of it4 ,let the bread be toasted through--i4e41 let the bread be toasted so as to be thoroughly dried up4 ,then pour the boiling water on it1 and1 if liked1 add a small piece of lemon-peel4 ,let this be carefully drained off1 so that no crumbs remain in the fluid after it has got cold2 and this toast-and-water1 which will look bright like sherry1 will be a welcome draught to the feverish invalid4 ,to make bread-and-milk1 you must cut the bread up into small square pieces1 and pour boiling milk on them4 ,there are a good many persons who don't fancy bread-and-milk1 who yet will take toast-and-milk4 ,for this purpose you must pour the boiling milk over small pieces of toast similar to those that would be handed round with pea-soup4 ,in making bread-and-milk for infants1 it is generally recommended to pour boiling water on the bread1 and then drain it off1 and then add the milk1 as the boiling water renders the bread softer2 and as medical men generally recommend a little water to be mixed with the milk for very young children1 it will not be weaker4 ,it is not for me to put up my opinion against the medical profession1 but in ,london ,i would recommend mothers to give their children the milk pure when they have to buy it4 ,i fear that many of the cows that supply ,london have iron tails1 and that the doctors' recommendation has been already fully carried out--if anything1 probably too fully4 ,another very refreshing drink for invalids1 especially in hot weather1 is lemonade4 ,this is too often made by simply squeezing a lemon into a tumbler1 picking the pips out with a spoon1 and then adding sugar and cold water4 ,the best method of making lemonade is to peel the lemons1 or otherwise the lemonade will be bitter2 cut them into slices1 taking away the pips1 and then pouring boiling water on the slices1 adding1 of course1 sufficient sugar to sweeten4 ,this1 after being well stirred1 and the pulp pressed with a spoon1 must be carefully strained through a piece of fine muslin1 and allowed to get cold4 ,when cold1 a piece of ice is a great improvement4 ,cold1 weak lemonade made this way1 not too sweet1 is one of the most refreshing drinks for hot weather possible2 and in cases where there is a tendency to take fluids too often1 a tendency1 we fear1 rather of the age in which we live1 a large jug of lemonade1 made in the manner we have described1 will often prove a harmless substitute for a glass of sherry1 or a little drop of cold brandy-and-water1 or a glass of beer1 as the case may be4 ,gruel is a compound which ,i would despair of making palatable2 nevertheless1 fortunately all palates are not alike4 ,a table-spoonful of groats--or1 as ,i believe they are pronounced1 grits--must be mixed in a little cold water1 and worked smooth with a spoon4 ,about a pint of boiling water must then be poured on them1 and the whole quantity boiled gently and stirred over a clear fire for about a quarter of an hour4 ,gruel can1 of course1 be made with milk1 or flavoured in a variety of ways4 ,for a bad cold1 a table-spoonful of treacle is sometimes serviceable1 or a little sweet spirit of nitre1 or a table-spoonful of rum1 a little sugar being of course added4 ,as a rule1 in cooking for real invalids1 the aim should be nourishment combined with the greatest simplicity of flavour4 ,there are1 however1 of course1 many cases where the palate has to be tickled1 while at the same time the digestion has to be consulted4 ,in these cases the cook's art is often put to the test4 ,in many cases of diseases that may be termed wasting1 really rich but1 at the same time1 light dishes are requisite4 ,we would instance sweetbreads1 stewed oysters1 calves' brains1 lambs' tails1 c42 but to enter into an elaborate account of the proper method of preparing such delicacies would be out of place in an article on invalid food1 which is of necessity cursory4 ,objections have1 however1 ofttimes been made to cookery as an art1 when the object in view has been simply to stir up the jaded appetite in the overfed1 whose proper treatment would be in accordance with the famous advice of ,abernethy to the dyspeptic alderman--viz41 8,live on a shilling a day1 and earn it40 ,when1 however1 our object is to alleviate those who suffer from disease1 and who loathe food unless brought to them in a palatable form1 even those who lead lives that may be termed severely simple will admit1 skill in the preparation of food may at times vie with1 and even excel1 skill in the preparation of drugs4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,index4 ------- ,,page ,acetic ,acid1 ,uses of1 #fd ,adaptation of ,dinner to ,guest1 #hf ,arrangement of ,table1 #di1 #id ,arrowroot1 #bdf ,asparagus ,salad1 #acb ,aspic ,jelly1 #hg ,balls1 ,stuffing1 #agh ,bashawed ,lobster1 #adf ,beef1 ,roast1 #aif ,beef-tea1 #bdc ,bloaters1 #gc ,bishop1 ,bowl of1 #bjb ,books1 ,cookery1 #aa ,bread-and-,milk1 #bea ,bread-crumbs1 ,fried1 #afi ,bread-raspings1 ,uses of1 #ad ,breakfast ,dishes1 #fh ,brown ,thickening1 #aai ,butter1 ,lobster1 #be ,melted1 #cc ,cake1 ,wedding1 #bcf ,almond ,paste for1 #bcg ,icing for1 #bcg ,camellias from ,turnips1 #ig ,celery ,sauce1 #ahi ,chicken ,broth1 #bdg ,salads1 #ace ,cutlets1 #hf ,chops1 ,greasy1 #ai ,to ,grill1 #bj ,champagne-cup1 #aee ,christmas ,cheer1 #bja ,dinner1 #aia ,pudding1 #aic ,claret-cup1 #adb1 #aeb1 #aec ,claret1 ,mulled1 #bjd ,coffee1 ,how to ,make1 #gh ,coriander-seeds1 ,uses of1 #aja ,copper1 ,dangerous ,properties of1 #aji ,curry1 #aah1 #abc1 #bbf ,sauce1 #bbf ,curried ,sweetbreads1 #aah ,mutton1 #aba ,shrimps1 #bcb ,cutlets1 ,chicken1 #hf ,lobster1 #be1 #bbg ,cucumber1 ,how to ,dress1 #ada ,devil ,sauce1 #cf ,dinner la ,russe1 #hb1 #he ,dinners1 ,expense of old-fashioned1 #hb1 #he ,dinner1 ,how to ,give a ,nice ,little1 #gi ,dishes1 ,how to ,make ,look ,nice1 #ef ,dyspepsia1 ,causes of1 #gg ,early ,rising1 ,importance of1 #ga ,economy1 #bb ,eels1 ,stewed1 #bbe ,souchet1 #add1 #baf1 #bbh ,fried1 #bbh ,egg and ,bread-crumb1 ,to1 #ac ,eggs and ,bacon1 #gc ,expenses of ,dinners ,compared1 #he ,extravagancies of the ,table1 #cb ,fat1 ,preservation of ,frying1 #ah ,filters1 ,importance of1 #aeh ,fish ,dinners1 #bba ,fish1 ,how to get ,cheap1 #ci ,grilled for ,breakfast1 #gf ,flounders1 ,fried1 #bbh ,souchet1 #add1 #bbh ,flowers for ,table1 #hc1 #id ,forcemeat for ,larks1 #ij ,forks1 ,relays of1 #bbd ,food for ,invalids1 #bdg ,fry1 ,to1 #ab ,fried ,bread-crumbs1 #afi ,frying-pan1 ,uses and ,abuses of1 #i1 #aa ,game and ,gravy1 #afj ,salmi of1 #afi ,glaze1 #ie ,goose1 ,roast1 #afa1 #aih ,golden-colour1 ,to fry1 #ab ,gravy1 #ajf for ,lamb1 #ajh for ,game1 #afi ,groseille1 #aeb ,grouse1 ,roast1 #afe ,gruel1 #bea ,ham1 ,potted1 #ch and ,eggs1 #gb ,ham1 ,to ,decorate1 #ih ,hare1 ,how to ,cook1 #aga ,roast1 #agb ,hare1 ,jugged1 #agg ,soup1 #agi ,horseradish ,sauce1 #bjf ,invalids1 ,food for1 #bdg ,irish ,stew1 #ahg ,jelly1 #aja ,aspic1 #hg ,jugged ,hare1 #agg ,kidneys1 #gf ,kitchen ,economy1 #bb ,kromeskies1 ,russian1 #ce ,lamb1 ,how to ,roast1 #ajf ,larks1 #ij1 #ia ,lemonade1 #bea ,home-made1 #aeg ,lettuce1 ,to dry1 #acj ,lobster1 ,bashawed1 #adf ,salad1 #fj1 #ace ,sauce1 #bc ,butter1 #be ,cutlets1 #bg1 #bbg ,loin of ,mutton1 #ce ,luxury1 ,increase of1 #abg ,mayonnaise ,sauce1 #fc1 #ace ,mince for ,invalids1 #bdg ,mince-meat1 #aig ,mince with poached ,eggs1 #dg ,mint ,sauce1 #aaj ,mock-turtle ,soup1 ,pig's ,head1 #ci ,mullet1 ,red1 en papillote1 #bbg ,mushrooms au gratin1 #add ,mutton1 ,loin of1 #ce ,cold ,leg of1 #dc ,curried1 #aba ,oil1 ,english ,prejudice against1 #abd ,ornaments for ,lobster ,salad1 #fd ,variety of1 #ff ,paper ,cases for ,larks1 #ij ,parsley1 ,to fry1 #ag ,partridge1 ,red-legged1 #afb ,partridge1 ,roast1 #afe ,peas1 ,green1 #ajh ,pea ,soup1 #ahd ,picnic ,dainties1 #ach ,pig1 ,roast1 ,indian ,method1 #bc ,pigs' ,heads for ,mock ,turtle1 #ci ,pigeon ,pie1 #ada ,pine-apple ,syrup1 #adb ,potatoes1 ,new and ,old1 #aaj ,potato ,salad1 #acc ,potted ,ham1 #ch ,pudding1 ,corn-flour1 #ajj ,plum1 #aic ,red ,mullet1 #bbg ,recipes1 ,extravagance of1 #ba ,rissoles1 #df1 #ij ,rice for ,curry1 #abb ,russian ,kromeskies1 #ce ,salad1 ,mayonnaise1 #ei1 #ace ,lobster1 #fj1 #ace ,asparagus1 #acb ,potato1 #acb ,salads1 and how to make them1 #abd1 #abg ordinary ,method1 #abi ,mixed ,english1 #acc ,vegetable1 ,cold1 #acd ,chicken1 #ace ,salmon1 #ace ,sauce1 ,bread1 #afg ,devil1 #cf ,lobster1 #bc1 #aab ,mint1 #aaj ,celery1 #ahi ,shrimp1 #aab ,horseradish1 #bjf ,tartare1 #aac ,curry1 #aah ,salmon ,salad1 #ace and ,pickle ,sauce1 #bbe ,how to ,boil1 #aaa ,how to ,carve1 #aab ,grilled1 #aab ,salmi of ,game1 #afh ,sandwiches1 #ii ,sausages1 #gd1 #ge ,sausage-machine1 #gd ,savoury ,summer ,dishes1 #aad ,servants' ,stupidity1 #cj ,extravagance1 #bi ,soup1 ,hare1 #agi ,vermicelli1 #ea ,mock-turtle1 #ci ,pea1 #ahd ,turtle1 #bji ,smelts1 ,fried1 #bbh ,shrimps1 ,curried1 #bcb ,sole1 ,fried1 #ac ,soda1 ,carbonate1 for softening ,water1 #aaj ,spring ,dishes1 #ajd ,stew1 ,irish1 #ahg ,stew-pans1 ,power of retaining ,heat1 #abj ,stock from ,leg of ,mutton1 #df ,good1 #bad ,stuffing1 ,chestnut1 #bjg ,veal1 #agd ,balls1 #agh ,supper1 ,how to ,give a1 #ic ,sweetbread1 ,fried1 #ab1 #ah ,table ,arrangement1 #di ,tea1 ,beef-1 #bdc ,toast-and-,water1 #bdi ,trifle1 #ajb ,turkey1 ,to ,utilise a ,cold1 #ce ,to ,glaze a1 #ie ,turnips for ,flowers1 #ig ,turtle ,soup1 #bji ,flesh1 ,dried1 #bac ,uses and ,abuses of a ,frying-pan1 #i ,veal ,stuffing1 #agd ,wassail-,bowl1 #bje ,wedding ,breakfasts1 #bcc ,bill of ,fare for1 #bcc ,cake1 #bcf ,whitebait1 #bcj ,whiting1 ,fried1 #bba ,white of ,eggs1 ,to ,utilise1 #ajb ---------------------------------------- ----------------- ,,cassell ,,petter ,,galpin1 ,,belle ,,sauvage ,,works1 ,,london1 ,e4 ,c4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected4 ,typographical errors were silently corrected4 ,inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book4 ,text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores 7italics74