,,shafting1 ,,pulleys1 ,,belting ,,and ,,rope ,,transmission ,,the ,,power ,,handbooks ,the best library for the engineer and the man who hopes to be one4 ,this book is one of them4 ,they are all good--and they cost #a4jj postpaid per volume4 7,english price #d_/f postpaid47 ,,sold ,,separately ,,or ,,in ,,sets ,,by ,,prof4 ,,augustus ,h4 ,,gill ,,of ,,the ,,massachusetts ,,institute ,,of ,,technology ,,engine ,,room ,,chemistry ,,by ,,hubert ,e4 ,,collins ,,boilers ,,knocks ,,and ,,kinks ,,shaft ,,governors ,,pumps ,,erecting ,,work ,,pipes ,,and ,,piping ,,shafting1 ,,pulleys ,,and ,,belting ,,by ,f4 ,e4 ,,matthews ,,refrigeration4 7,in ,preparation47 ,,hill ,,publishing ,,company #eje ,,pearl ,,street1 ,,new ,,york #f ,,bouverie ,,street1 ,,london1 ,e4 ,c4 ,,the ,,power ,,handbooks ,shafting1 ,pulleys1 ,belting ,,and ,rope ,transmission ,,compiled ,,and ,,written ,,by ,,hubert ,e4 ,,collins ,published by the ,mc,graw-,hill ,book ,company ,new ,york ,successors to the ,book ,departments of the ,mc,graw ,publishing ,company ,hill ,publishing ,company ,publishers of ,books for ,electrical ,world ,the ,engineering and ,mining ,journal ,the ,engineering ,record ,power and ,the ,engineer ,electric ,railway ,journal ,american ,machinist ,copyright1 #aijh1 ,,by ,,the ,,hill ,,publishing ,,company ,all rights reserved ,hill ,publishing ,company1 ,new ,york1 ,u4,s4,a4 ,,introduction ,,this handbook is intended to furnish the reader with practical help for the every-day handling of shafting1 pulleys and belting4 ,these are allied in the operation of plants and it is a pretty generally conceded fact that all three are much neglected by many operators4 ,a close perusal of these pages will enable the reader to determine the best course to pursue in the most common instances and in various troubles1 and in all articles there are suggestions for similar cases which may arise4 ,for instance1 the need of belt dressing as a preservative1 now generally conceded by most authorities1 is fully covered in ,chapter ,,xi and the result of a test made by disinterested parties to find the degree of efficiency of four of the best known dressings is given4 ,the results are of importance to all belt users4 ,a portion of the book is also given to rope transmission which is in more general use to-day than ever before1 and in this connection some advice is offered by experts as to the selection and care of the rope4 ,rope splices and how to make them will also prove valuable to many engineers4 ,the author wishes to make acknowledgment to various contributors to ,power whose articles are used herein1 and to some special contributors1 from whose articles small portions have been taken4 ,acknowledgment is also made to ,stanley ,h4 ,moore1 the author of ,mechanical ,engineering and ,machine ,shop ,practice for the section on splicing4 ,,hubert ,e4 ,,collins4 ,,new ,,york1 ,november1 #aijh4 ,,contents ,,chap4 ,,page ,i ,,shafting ,,hints #a ,,ii ,,shafting ,,hints #ba ,,iii ,,shafting ,,hints #cb ,,iv ,,truing ,,up ,,line ,,shafting #di ,v ,,apparatus ,,for ,,leveling ,,and ,,lining ,,shafting #ed ,,vi ,,some ,,practical ,,kinks #fa ,,vii ,,practical ,,methods ,,of ,,loosening ,,pulleys #fe ,,viii ,,splicing ,,leather ,,belts #gb ,,ix ,,care ,,and ,,management ,,of ,,leather ,,belts #hi ,x ,,belting--,,its ,,use ,,and ,,abuse #ii ,,xi ,a ,,comparative ,,test ,,of ,,four ,,belt ,,dressings #ajb ,,xii ,,belt ,,creep #ajf ,,xiii ,,rope ,,drives #ajh ,,xiv ,a ,,new ,,scheme ,,in ,,rope ,,transmission #aae ,,xv ,,how ,,to ,,order ,,transmission ,,rope #abb ,,xvi ,a ,,belting ,,and ,,pulley ,,chart #abi ,,xvii ,,splicing ,,rope #ace ,,xviii ,,wire ,,rope ,,transmission #adc ,i ,,shafting ,,hints#a ,,in the installation1 maintenance and repair of shafting1 as in all other things1 there is a right and a wrong way2 and though the wrong way ranges in its defects from matters causing trivial inconvenience to absolute danger1 the right too often--owing to lack of knowledge or discernment--finds but scant appreciation4 #a ,contributed to ,power by ,chas4 ,herrman4 ,where1 as is often the case1 the end of a shaft is journaled to admit of the use of an odd1 small-bore pillow block or wall-box hanger1 the journaled part should equal in length twice the length of the hanger bearing plus the length of the collar4 ,the hanger can thus readily be slid out of the wall box1 and the necessity of uncoupling this shaft length and removing it before access to the bearing for purposes of cleaning or repair is done away with4 ,a plank or board ,a 7,fig4 #a71 about #a_/d to #a_/b inch longer than the distance from the bottom of the shaft to the floor1 can be used to good advantage at such times to free the hanger of the shaft's weight1 and to prevent the shaft's springing from its own weight and the pulleys it may be carrying4 ,should it become necessary to place a pulley with half the hub on and half off the journaled part1 this can readily be done by the use of a split bushing1 as shown in sectional view of ,fig4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,very often a small-sized bearing is used and the shaft journaled off to act as a collar4 ,of this procedure it can only be said that if done with the idea of making a good job it signally fails of its object2 if of necessity 7a collar being insufficient71 then the shaft is heavily overloaded and serious trouble will result1 because of it4 ,it is advisable to center punch1 or otherwise mark1 the ends of both shafts held by a compression coupling close up against the coupling1 and both edges of the coupling hub should have a punch mark just opposite and close to the shaft punch marks4 ,these marks will serve at all times to show at a moment's glance any end or circumferential slippage of the shafts within the coupling4 ,the same method can be resorted to for proof of pulley slippage4 ,when a new line of shafting is put up1 the foot position of each hanger should be clearly marked out on their respective timbers after the shaft has been brought into alinement4 ,hangers can thus be easily put back into their proper place should timber shrinkage or heavy strains cause them to shift out of line4 ,this idea can be applied to good advantage on old lines also1 but before marking out the hanger positions the shaft should be tried and brought into perfect alinement4 ,hangers that do not allow of any vertical adjustment should not be used in old buildings that are liable to settle4 ,shafting so run pretty nearly always gets out and keeps out of level4 ,in flanged bolt couplings 7,fig4 #a7 no part of the bolt should project beyond the flanges4 ,and where a belt runs in close proximity to such a coupling1 split wood collars should be used to cover in the exposed coupling flanges1 bolt heads and nuts4 ,countershafts have been torn out of place times innumerable by belts getting caught and winding up on the main line4 ,whenever possible a space of #h to #aj inches should be left between the end of a shaft line and the wall4 ,a solid pulley or a new coupling can thus readily be put on by simply uncoupling and pushing the two shaft lengths apart without taking either down4 ,ten inches does not represent the full scope of pulleys admissible1 for so long as the pulley hub does not exceed a #aj-;inch length the pulley face 7the more readily in proportion to the larger pulley diameter7 can be edged in between the shafts4 ,fig4 #b is an instance of bad judgment in locating the bearings4 ,in one case this bearing overheated2 the remedy is either to re-babbitt the old box or replace it with a new one4 ,both pulleys were solid and the keys--headless ones--had been driven home to stay4 ,the rims of both pulleys almost touched the wall1 and the circumferential position on the shaft of both these pulleys was such as to preclude the possibility 7owing to an arm of a being in a direct line with key ,b#a and arm of b with key a#a7 of using anything but a side offset key starting drift4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4 ,an effort was made to loosen b 7which was farthest from the wall7 by sledge-driving it toward the wall1 hoping that the pulley might move off the key4 ,the key1 as was afterward found out1 not having been oiled when originally driven home had rusted in place badly2 though the pulley was moved by sledging1 the key1 secure in the pulley hub1 remained there4 ,ultimately one of us had to get into pulley b1 and1 removing cap c1 hold the improvised side offset1 long1 starting drift ,d in place against ,b#a at b#b while the other swung the hand sledge at a4 ,the entering end of the key1 not having been file chamfered off1 as it should have been 7see ,e71 our starting drift burred it up2 so1 after having started it1 we had the pleasure of getting into b to file the key end b#b into shape so as to admit of getting it out4 ,the solid pulley b has since been replaced with a split pulley4 ,by the arrangement1 as shown in ,fig4 #c1 of the rim-friction clutch on the driven main shaft ,b and the driving pulley on the engine-connected driving main shaft ,a1 no matter whether ,b shaft is in use or not--i4e41 whether the clutch be in or out of engagement--so long as ,a shaft is in motion the belt ,c is working4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,main line belts come high1 and the more they are used the sooner will they wear out4 ,by changing the clutch from shaft ,b to ,a and the pulley ,d from ,a to ,b1 belt ,c will be at rest whenever ,b is not in use4 ,where1 however1 these shafts are each in a separate room or on a different floor 7the belt running through the wall or floor and ceiling1 as the case may be7 the clutch1 despite belt wear1 should be placed directly on the driven shaft 7as ,b71 so as to provide a ready means for shutting off the power in cases of emergency4 ,figs4 #d1 #e and #f represent a dangerous mode1 much in vogue1 of driving an overhead floor4 ,an extremely slack belt connects the driving shaft ,a and the driven shaft ,b2 when it is desired to impart motion to the driven shaft the belt tightener ,c is let down and belt contact is thus secured4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,this tightener system is called dangerous advisedly1 for few are the shops employing it but that some employee has good cause to remember it4 ,unlike a clutch--where control of the power is positive1 instantaneous and simple--the tightener cannot be handled1 as in emergency cases it has to be4 ,in any but straight up and down drives with the driven pulley equal to or larger 7diametrically7 than the driver1 unless the belt have special leading idlers there is more or less of a constant belt contact with its resultant liability to start the driven shaft up unexpectedly4 ,when the tightener is completely off1 the belt1 owing to heat1 weight or belt fault1 may at any time continue to cling and transmit power for a short space1 despite this fact4 ,these tighteners are usually pretty heavy--in fact1 much heavier than the unfamiliar imagines when on the spur of emergency he grapples them1 and trouble results4 ,tightener 7in ,fig4 #e7 ,a is held in place by two threaded rods ,b--as shown by slot a in ,a#a--;and regulated and tightened by ring-nuts ,c working along the threaded portion of ,b4 ,c 7of ,fig4 #d7 is also a poor arrangement4 ,fig4 #f is the best of them all4 ,apropos of clutches1 great care must be exercised in tightening them up while the shafting is in motion1 for if the least bit overdone the clutch may start up or1 on being locked for trial 7according to the clutches' structure71 continue running without possibility of release until the main source of power be cut off4 ,nothing can exceed the danger of a clutch on a sprung shaft4 ,heavily loaded shafting runs to much better advantage when center driven than when end driven1 and what often constitutes an overload for an end drive is but a full load for a center drive4 ,to illustrate1 here is one case of many3 ,the main shaft--end driven--was so overloaded that it could be alined and leveled one week and be found out one way or the other1 frequently both ways1 the next week4 ,being tired of the ceaseless tinkering that the condition under which that shaft was working necessitated1 the proprietors were given the ultimatum3 ,a heavier line of shafting which would be sure to work1 or a try of the center drive which1 owing to the extreme severity of this case1 might or might not work4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #g4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,a center drive1 being the cheapest1 was decided upon4 ,pulley ,a1 ,fig4 #g1 which happened to be a solid1 set-screw and key-held pulley1 was removed from the end of the shaft4 ,the split1 tight-clamping-fit pulley ,b1 ,fig4 #h1 was put in the middle of the shaft length2 the gas engine was shifted to accommodate the new drive1 and hanger ,c#a was put up as a reinforcement to hanger ,c and as a preventive of shaft springing4 ,after these changes the shaft gave no trouble1 so that1 as had been hoped1 the torsional strain that had formerly all been at point #a must evidently have been divided up between points #b and #c4 ,when a main shaft is belted to the engine and to a countershaft1 as shown in ,fig4 #i1 the pulley ,a#a gets all the load of main and countershafts4 ,in the arrangement shown in ,fig4 #aj point #a gets ,a's load and #b gets ,b's load and is the better arrangement4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,where a machine is situated close to one of the columns or timber uprights of the building it is very customary to carry the belt shifter device upon the column1 as in ,fig4 #aa4 ,the sudden stoppage of a machine seldom does any damage1 whereas an unexpected starting may cause irreparable damage and often even endanger the limb and life of the machine operative4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,to avoid the possibility of some passing person brushing up against the shifting lever and thus starting the machine1 the tight and loose pulleys of the countershaft should be so placed that when ,a is exposed--that is1 away from the column--its accidental shifting shall stop the machine4 ,fig #ab makes this point clear4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,this arrangement is often used to save a collar 7at ,a74 ,the oil runs out between the loose pulley and the bearing1 especially if the latter be a split bearing2 the loose pulley1 instead of being totally free when the belt is on the tight pulley1 acts more or less1 in proportion to the end play of the shaft1 as a buffer between the tight pulley and the bearing2 finally1 the tight pulley is deprived of the support 7which1 when under load1 it can use to good advantage7 a nearer proximity to the hanger would give it4 ,the shafts of light-working counters should not be needlessly marred with spotting or flats for collar set-screws1 nor should cup or pointed set-screws 7which mar a shaft7 be used4 ,if the collar be sharply tapped with a hammer1 diametrically opposite the set-screw1 while it is being tightened up1 all slack is taken out of the collar2 and the hold is such that1 without resource to the same expedient when loosening the collar1 a screwdriver will scarcely avail against a slotted set-screw4 ,when required to sink the head of a bolt into a timber to admit of the timbers lying snug in or against some spot1 if allowable1 the bolt's future turning can be guarded against by cutting the hole square to fit the bolt head4 ,but where a washer must be used1 the only positive and practical way to prevent the bolt from turning is to drive a nail 7as shown7 into ,a 7,fig4 #ac7 far enough for the nail head to flush ,b2 now bend the head down behind the bolt toward c4 ,it is evident that if the bolt tries to turn in the direction of #c the nail end 7wood held7 will prevent it2 if toward #d1 the nail head will be forced against the wood and catch hold of the bolt head4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,large belts of engines1 dynamos1 motors1 etc41 when in need of taking-up are usually attended to when the plant is shut down2 that is1 nights1 ,sundays or legal holidays4 ,at such times power is not to be had2 and if the spliced part of the belt1 which must be opened1 shortened1 scraped1 re-cemented and hammered1 happens to be resting against the face of one of the pulleys1 is up between some beams or down in a pit1 the chances of the job1 if done at all1 being any good are very slim4 ,the spliced part of a large belt should be clearly marked in some permanent and easily recognizable way 7a rivet1 or where the belt is rivet-held at all its joints some odd arrangement of rivets is as good a way as any74 ,this marking will minimize the possibility of mistake and enable the engineer to place the belt splice in the position most favorable for the belt-maker's taking-up4 ,in wire-lacing a belt1 very often1 despite all efforts and care1 the edges of the belt 7,a1 ,b7 get out of line1 as shown in ,fig4 #ad1 and make the best of jobs look poor4 ,by securing the belt in proper position by two small pieces of wire passed through and fastened at #a1 #b1 #c and #d1 ,fig4 #ae1 the lacing can be more conveniently accomplished and the edge projection is avoided4 ,when the lacing has progressed far enough to necessitate the removal of wires c d1 the lacing already in place will keep the belt in its original position4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,a wire lacing under certain conditions will run a certain length of time to a day4 ,on expensive machinery whose time really is money it pays to renew the lacing at regular intervals so as to avoid the loss of time occasioned by a sudden giving out of the lace4 ,never throw a belt on to a rim-friction or other kind of clutch while the shaft is in full motion4 ,belts1 when being thrown on1 have a knack1 peculiarly their own1 of jumping off on the other side of the pulley4 ,and should a belt jump over and off on the wrong side and get caught in the clutch mechanism1 as the saying goes1 there will be something doing and the show usually comes high4 ,it pays to slow down4 ,a mule belt 7transmitting in the neighborhood of or considerably over #be horse-power7 that runs amuck through the breaking down of the mule can make enough trouble in a short time to keep the most able repairing for a long while4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,no matter what the pulley shafts holding arrangement and adjusting contrivance may be1 all of the strain due to belt weight1 tension1 and the power transmitted falls mainly at points ,a1 ,a#a1 ,fig4 #af2 and it is here that1 sooner or later1 a pin1 set-screw or bolt gives way and the belt either gets badly torn up1 rips something out of place1 or a fold of it sweeping to the floor slams things around generally until the power is shut off4 ,the remedy is obvious3 ,reinforce ,a1 ,a' by securing ,b1 ,b' to the supporting shaft c at c#a1 c#b4 ,the yoke x is a reliable and practical means to this end4 ,straps a held by the nuts b hold the yoke securely on the supporting shaft c1 while the pulley-shaft ends ,b1 ,b' are held in the ,u of the yoke at w' at any desired distance from c by means of the adjustment provided by the nuts b4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,the end of a hanger bearing was badly worn 7,fig4 #ag74 ,the cap could be lifted out by removing bridge ,a1 but the shaft interfered with the lifting of the bottom out1 owing to its being held in the hanger slides4 ,it had to be removed and we were called upon to put it into shape by re-babbitting4 ,being a newspaper plant1 money was no object2 the time limit1 however1 was three hours1 or hands off4 ,opening the #cj-;inch engine belt and removing the interfering shaft length was out of the question in so short a time4 ,so the job was done as follows3 ,the shaft was braced against down sag and engine pull along the line ,b ,c by a piece of timber at ,a1 and against pull on ,b ,d by timber arrangement ,x2 timber y's points y#a and y#b resting against the uprights at #a and #b1 timber z wedged in between y at y#c and the shaft at #d1 thus acting as the stay along line ,b ,d4 ,the nuts and washers a1 a were removed2 the bolts driven back out of the bracket2 the end of a rope was thrown over the shaft at b1 passed through the pulley and tied to the bracket and hanger which1 as one piece1 were then slid endways off the shaft and lowered to the floor4 ,the bearing was cleaned1 re-babbitted and scraped1 everything put back1 stays removed and the shaft running on time with a half-hour to the good4 ,illustration3 ,,timber ,,arrangement ,x ,when desirable to keep a shaft from turning while chipping and filing flats1 spotting in set screws or moving pulleys on it1 it can be done by inserting a narrow strip of cardboard1 soft wood or several thicknesses of paper between the bearing cap and the top of the shaft and then tightening the cap down4 ,the packing1 #a-af to #c-af inch thick and about as long as the bearing1 must be narrow2 otherwise1 as may be deduced from ,fig4 #ah 7which shows the right way71 by the use of a wide strip in the cap the shaft is turned into a wedge1 endangering the safety of the cap when forced down4 ,at point #c packing does no harm1 but at #a and #b there is just enough space to allow the shaft diameter to fit exactly1 with no room to spare1 into the cap bore diameter4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,as a very little clamping will do a good deal of holding the clamping need not be overdone4 ,a shaft can also be held from turning1 or turned as may be desired1 by holding it with a screw 7monkey7 wrench at any flat or keyway1 as shown in sectional view1 ,fig4 #ai4 ,when a shaft breaks it is either owing to torsional strain caused by overload1 springing through lack of hanger support at the proper interval of shaft length1 the strain of imperfect alinement or level1 or a flaw4 ,an immediate temporary repair may be effected by taking some split pulley that can best be spared from another part of the shaft and clamping it over the broken part of the shaft1 thus converting it1 as it were1 into a compression coupling4 ,the longer the pulley hub the better the hold2 spotting the set-screws--that is1 chipping out about #a_/h-;inch holes for their accommodation into the shaft--is also a great help4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,if when the shaft breaks it has not been sprung by the sudden dropping of itself and the pulleys that were on it1 a permanent repair can be effected1 after correcting the cause of the break1 by the use of a regular key-less compression coupling4 ,if it has been sprung1 a new length comes cheapest in the wind-up2 and if overload was the original cause of the trouble1 only a heavier shaft or a considerable lightening of the load will prevent a repetition4 ,in ,fig4 #bj ,a shows how to drive to make belt weight count in securing extra contact4 ,in ,b this weight causes a loss of contact4 ,bearing in mind that ,b is not only a loss from the normal contact but also a loss of the extra contact that ,a gives1 it will readily be seen how important a power-saving factor the right sort of a drive is--especially on high-speed small-pulley machines1 such as dynamos1 motors1 fans1 blowers1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,a good many electrical concerns mount some of their styles of dynamos and motors 7especially the light duty1 small size7 upon two ,v-shaped rails1 ,fig4 #ba 7the bottom of the motor or dynamo base being ,v-grooved for the purpose74 ,the machine's weight and the screws ,a are counted on to keep it in place4 ,if the machine be properly mounted on these rails1 as regards screws ,a in relation to its drive1 the screws reinforce the machine's weight in holding it down and also permit a surer adjustment through this steady holding of the machine4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,fig4 #bb shows the machine properly mounted4 ,the belt tension and pull tend to draw ,b corner of the machine toward the shaft ,c2 and screw ,b#a is there to resist this pull4 ,owing to this resistance and the pull along line ,d1 ,e tends to lift and slew around in ,e#a direction2 screw ,e#b is1 however1 in a position to overcome both these tendencies4 ,if the screws are both in front1 there is nothing but the machine's weight to keep the back of it from tilting up4 ,the absurdity of placing the screws at ,f and ,g1 though even this is thoughtlessly done1 needs no demonstration4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,when putting a new belt on a motor or dynamo1 both the driver and the driven are often needlessly strained by the use of belt-clamps1 in the attempt to take as much stretch out of the belt as possible4 ,on being loosely endlessed it soon requires taking up2 and if only laced1 when the time for endlessing comes the belt is botched by the splicing in of the piece which1 owing to the insufficiency of the original belt length1 must now be added to supply enough belt to go around1 plus the splice4 ,the proper mode of procedure is3 ,place the motor on its rails or slides #e inches away from its nearest possible approach to the driven shaft or machine and wire-lace it 7wire-lacing is a very close second to an endless belt74 ,let it run for a few days1 moving the motor back from the driven shaft as the belt stretches4 ,when all reasonable stretch is out1 move the motor back as close to the driven shaft as possible4 ,the #e inches forward motion will give #aj inches of belting1 which will be amply sufficient for a good splice2 and1 further1 the machine will be in position to allow of tightening the belt up1 by simply forcing the motor back1 for probably the belt's lifetime4 ,,ii ,,shafting ,,hints#b ,,the bolts1 set-screws1 pulleys1 bearings1 shafting and clutches of a plant1 although among the foremost factors in its efficiency1 are very often neglected until they reach the stage where their condition absolutely compels attention4 #b ,contributed to ,power by ,chas4 ,herrman4 ,very often this lack of proper attention is due to surrounding difficulties of an almost insurmountable and most discouraging nature4 ,at other times it is due to a lack of proper appreciation of the damage resultant from seemingly insignificant neglects4 ,how to overcome some of these difficulties is the object of this chapter4 ,fig4 #bc shows a case of a turning bolt4 ,the head is inaccessible and the bolt's turning with the nut1 owing to burrs or rust1 prevents either the tightening or the loosening of the nut4 ,one to three fair-sized nails driven through the timber as at ,c1 hard up against1 or1 better still1 forced into a tangent with the bolt1 will often suffice to hold it while the nut is being turned4 ,in iron girders1 beams1 etc41 the nail method being impossible1 a slot ,e can easily be cut with a hack-saw through the lower end of both the nut and bolt1 so that the bolt may be held by a screwdriver while the nut is turned with a wrench4 ,where an extra strong screwdriver must be used1 the use of two blades at the same time in the hack-saw frame will give a slot of the requisite width4 ,where the bolt's end projects beyond the nut and it is desired to tighten the nut1 a ,stillson wrench is often1 though inadvisedly1 called into service4 ,this tends to spoil the lower threads of the bolt and thus prevents any future loosening1 except by the cutting off of the projecting end4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,as the alinement and level of shafting depend on the power of their hold1 bolts1 lag-bolts and set-screws should1 when they are tightened1 be so in fact and not in fancy4 ,the proper way to use a wrench1 especially a screw wrench1 so as to avail yourself of every ounce of power1 not of your biceps only but of your whole body1 is as follows3 ,place your shoulders on a level with the object to be tightened1 secure the wrench jaws well upon it1 grasp the jaws with the left hand and the wrench handle with the right1 holding both arms straight and tense2 swing the upper part of the body to the right from the hip1 backing the force of your swing up with the full force of your legs1 steadying yourself the while with your left-hand grip on the wrench jaws1 which are the center of your swing4 ,several such half turns1 at the wind-up1 will cause an extremely hard jam with comparative ease4 ,in tightening up a split-pulley1 the expedient of hammering the bolts tight1 by means of an open-ended bolt-wrench and a small sledge1 is often resorted to4 ,if the head of the bolt be lightly tapped while the nut is being tightened1 even a light hammering1 except in the extremest cases1 becomes unnecessary4 ,split-pulleys are invariably better held in place by a good clamping fit than by set-screws4 ,it must also be borne in mind that1 for good holding1 set-screws must be spotted into the shaft1 and this defaces and often materially weakens the shaft4 ,split-pulleys1 like solid ones1 are sometimes subject to stoppage1 owing to excessive strain4 ,set-screws1 at such times1 cut a shaft up pretty badly2 whereas1 if clamped1 only a few slight scratches would result4 ,where packing with paper1 cardboard1 emery cloth or tin becomes necessary to secure a good clamping fit1 care should be taken to put an equal thickness of packing into both halves of the pulley2 otherwise it will wabble and jump when running4 ,emery cloth1 on account of its grittiness1 is preferable for packing where the duty done by the pulley is light4 ,when the duty done is extra heavy1 emery cloth1 despite its grittiness1 will not do2 tin or sheet iron1 owing to body1 must be used4 ,the following is the most practical way of packing a split-pulley to a good clamping fit1 assuming that emery cloth is to be used3 ,the thickness of the emery cloth to be used1 and whether to use one or more folds1 can readily be ascertained by calipering the shaft diameter and pulley bore1 or by trial-clamping the pulley by hand4 ,in both of these instances1 however1 due allowance must be made for the compressiveness of the packing used4 ,if the packing be too thin1 the pulley will not clamp strongly enough2 if too thick1 the chances of breaking the lugs when drawing the bolts up are to be apprehended4 ,having determined the proper thickness of emery cloth to be used1 place the pulley on the shaft1 as shown in ,fig4 #bd4 ,into the lower half ,c1 in space ,a1 which is out of contact with the shaft1 place a sheet of emery with the emery side toward the hub and the smooth side toward the shaft4 ,the width of the emery should be a little less than half of the shaft's circumference1 and it should be long enough to project about one-half of an inch to an inch on each side of the hub4 ,now turn the pulley on the shaft so that the position of the halves shall become reversed 7,fig4 #be71 ,c on top1 ,b on bottom4 ,see that the emery cloth remains in its proper position in half-hub1 the smooth side being toward the shaft2 the projecting length beyond the pulley hub will help you to do this4 ,into half-hub ,b 7space ,d7 insert a similar sized piece of emery cloth1 smooth side toward the hub and the emery side toward the shaft4 ,draw up on your bolts to clamp the pulley into position4 ,be sure1 however1 that no emery cloth gets in between the half-hubs or lugs at points #a and #b1 ,fig4 #be1 as this would prevent their coming properly together2 the width of the emery being less than half of the shaft's circumference will be a help to this end4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,it often happens1 owing to downright neglect or unwitting neglect1 through the oil hole or oiler being blocked up1 that a loose pulley1 running unlubricated1 cuts1 heats1 and finally1 through heat expansion1 seizes4 ,it then becomes necessary to take the countershaft down1 force the loose pulley off and file and polish the shaft up before it can be put back into place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4 ,the following method avoids the taking down and putting back1 provides an easy means for loosening up the pulley that has seized1 and improvises1 as it were1 a lathe for filing and polishing the shaft4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,in ,fig4 #bf1 ,a is the loose pulley that has seized4 ,throw off both the belt that leads from the main shaft to pulleys ,a1 ,b and the belt that leads to the driven machine from the driving pulley ,c4 ,tie1 or get somebody to hold1 an iron bar in pulley ,a at side a1 as shown in ,fig4 #bg1 over an arm of the pulley1 under the shaft1 and resting against the timber1 ceiling1 wall or floor1 in such a way as to prevent the pulley from turning in one direction1 as shown in ,fig4 #bg4 ,now1 with another bar1 of a sufficient length to give you a good leverage1 take the grip under a pulley arm and over the shaft in the tight pulley ,b at b1 which will enable you to work against the resistance of the bar in the loose pulley ,a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,with enough leverage1 this kind of persuasion will loosen the worst of cases4 ,take the bars out and move ,b sufficiently to the right to allow ,a to take ,b's former position4 ,secure ,b by means of its set-screws in its new position and1 by means of a piece of cord1 fasten an arm of ,a to one of ,b's4 ,it is evident that by throwing the main-shaft belt on to ,a it will1 through ,a's cord connection with ,b1 which is screwed to the shaft1 cause the shaft to revolve1 thus enabling you to file up and polish that portion of it formerly occupied by ,a4 ,to prevent the countershaft from side-slipping out of hanger-bearing ,d#a1 get somebody to hold something against hanger-bearing ,d#b at ,e2 or fasten a piece of wire or cord on the countershaft at ,f and the hanger ,d#a1 so as to prevent side-slipping while not interfering with revolution4 ,filing1 polishing1 a cleaning out of the oil hole or oiler1 and the taking of proper precaution against future failure of lubrication will put everything into first-class order4 ,when the loose pulley is1 as it is best for it to be1 farthest away from the bearing1 held in its place by the tight pulley and a collar1 not only is the tight pulley better adapted for carrying its load1 owing to additional support resultant from its proximity to the bearing1 but such matters of small repair as come up are much simplified4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,fig4 #bh in some degree1 aside from the cutting up and heating of the bearings1 illustrates the breaking strain1 in addition to the usual torsional strain1 which becomes enhanced in direct proportion with the increase of breaking strain1 to which an out-of-line or out-of-level shaft is subject4 ,the bends are exaggerated for illustration4 ,in this instance1 the fact of one hanger-bearing being out of line or level subjects the shaft to a severe breaking strain4 ,the shaft being both out of line and level does not1 if both at the same point1 aggravate matters1 as might at first be supposed4 ,it is true that the full torsional strength of a shaft is only equal to the weakest portion of it1 so that three weak spots more or less can1 theoretically1 make no difference one way or the other4 ,but1 practically1 there is the undue strain and wear of the bearings at these points1 and if a pulley transmitting any considerable amount of power is situated anywhere along the length ,a ,b it is sure to be unpleasantly in evidence at all times4 ,only an eighth or a quarter out1 but oh1 what shaft-breaking stories that fraction could tell6 ,the following is a simple method for testing the alinement and level of a line of shafting that is already up4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,as in ,fig4 #bi1 stretch a line ,c so that it is exactly opposite the shafting4 ,set it equidistant from the shaft end centers ,g and ,f and free from all contact along its entire length except at its retaining ends ,a and ,b4 ,now1 it is self-evident1 as line ,c is straight and set equidistant from the shaft end centers ,g and ,f1 that if you set the entire center line of the shafting at the same distance from line ,c1 as ,g and ,f1 you are bound to get your shafting into perfect alinement4 ,in leveling a line of shafting that is already up1 you can1 by the use of a level and perseverance1 get it right4 ,placing the level at ,a1 you are just as likely to raise the first hanger as to lower the middle one4 ,look before you jump1 even if compelled to climb to the top of the fence to do so4 ,when you find a length of shafting out of level1 try the two adjacent lengths before acting1 and your action will be the more intelligent for it4 ,on exceptionally long lines of shafting the following method1 in which the level and a line constitute a check upon and a guide for each other1 can be used to great advantage4 ,stretch a line so that it is exactly above1 or1 if more convenient1 below the shafting to be leveled4 ,with the level find a length of shafting that is level and adjust your line exactly parallel with this length4 ,your line now1 free of contact except at its retaining ends1 and level owing to its parallelism to the level shaft length1 constitutes a safe hight level guide while the level itself can serve to verify the accuracy of the finished job4 ,in lining1 whether for level or alinement1 unless the shafting line consists of the same diameter of shafting throughout its entire length1 though of necessity measuring from the shaft circumference to the line1 always base your calculations on the shaft centers4 ,the figures in ,fig4 #bi will make this point clear4 ,the manner of securing the ends of the line under different circumstances must be left to individual ingenuity4 ,only be sure that the line is so placed that the shafting adjustment shall not affect its original position with reference to the end shaft centers4 ,coupling clutches1 i4e41 those joining two lengths of shafting into one at option1 will fail1 utterly or partially1 if the respective shafts which bear them are out of line or level with each other4 ,such a condition should not be tolerated on account of the danger entailed by the inability to shut off the power in cases of emergency4 ,as a general rule1 it is most advisable to set a clutch to take as hard a grip as it can without interfering with its releasing power4 ,where a clutch grips weakly1 it is subject to undue wear owing to slippage1 whereas a strongly regulated clutch absolutely prevents slippage wear4 ,,iii ,,shafting ,,hints#c ,,engineers1 machinists and general mechanics are often called upon to turn their hands to a shafting job4 ,we recognize that all of the following cannot prove new or even suggestive to most of our readers2 still1 some of it for all1 and1 mayhap1 all for some1 may not come amiss4 #c ,contributed to ,power by ,chas4 ,herrman4 ,we all know that to have belting run rightly on pulleys located upon parallel lines of shafting the shafting must be in absolutely correct parallel4 ,the slightest deviation1 even to a #a-af inch1 often imparts a marring effect1 through poorly running belts1 to an otherwise faultless job4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,fig4 #cj shows how to line a countershaft as regards parallelism with the driving shaft when the countershaft's end-centers are availably situated for thus measuring4 ,a is the countershaft1 ,b the main shaft1 ,c is a stick of proper length about #a-a_/b inches in thickness and width1 ,d a heavy nail--about #bj-penny will do--driven into ,c far enough from its end ,e to allow of ,c's resting squarely upon the top of the shaft ,b4 ,rest the measuring rod upon the main shaft1 keeping the nail in touch with the shaft1 so that when the ,f end is in contact with the end of the countershaft the stick shall be at right angles to the main shaft1 and then mark the exact location a of the countershaft's end-center on the stick4 ,do the same at the other end of the countershaft4 ,if both marks come at the same spot1 your counter is parallel2 if not1 space between these two marks will show you how much and which way the counter is out4 ,it may only be necessary to shift one end in or out a little2 and then1 again1 it may be that to get into line you will have to throw one end all the way in one direction and the other all or some in the opposite direction4 ,but1 whichever it be1 do not rest content until you have verified the correctness of your adjustment by a re-measurement4 ,the nail should be well driven into ,c1 so that its position will not readily change1 and it should1 preferably1 be slant driven 7as shown in ,fig4 #cj71 as it thus helps to keep the stick down in contact with the shaft4 ,where an end-center is not available or where there is no clear space on the main shaft1 opposite a center1 the method shown in ,fig4 #ca can generally be used4 ,rest ,c on top of both shafts and at right angles to the driving shaft ,b4 ,with ,d pressed against ,b1 place a square on stick ,c1 as shown 7stock in full contact with the top of the rod1 and the tongue running down the side of it74 ,slide along ,c toward ,a until the side of the tongue touches the shaft the other side of ,a4 ,now mark a line on the stick down tongue4 ,do the same at the other end of your countershaft and the two resultant marks will be your parallel adjustment guides4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,it often happens that a counter1 or even line shaft1 is end driven from the extreme end of the main or jack driving shaft with its other end running beyond the reach of the driving shaft1 as shown in ,fig4 #cb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,it is evident that neither method #a nor #b can here be applied to solve the alinement problem4 ,if the driving pulley ,b and the driven pulley ,a are both in place1 the following method can be used to advantage4 ,fasten1 or let somebody hold1 one end of a line against pulley ,b's rim at ,b#a2 carry the line over to ,a at ,a#b2 now sweep the loose ,a#b end of the line toward pulley ,a until the line just touches pulley ,b's rim at ,b#b4 ,when the line so touches--and it must just barely touch or the measurement is worthless--,a#a and ,a#b of pulley ,a must be just touched by or 7if ,b and ,a are not of a like face width1 as in ,fig4 #cb7 equidistant from the line4 ,a single1 two-hanger-supported length of shafting thus lined is bound to be in parallel2 but where the so adjusted shaft line consists of two or more coupling-joined lengths supported by more than two hangers1 only pulley ,a's supporting portion of the shaft between its immediate supporting hangers #a and #b is sure to be lined2 the rest may be more or less out4 ,to make a perfect job1 fix a string in parallel with shaft length #a and #b1 stretching along the entire length of the adjusted shaft1 and aline the rest of the shaft length to it4 ,when there are no pulleys in place to go by1 or when1 as occasionally happens1 the wabbly motion of pulley ,b 7when running7 indicates that1 having been inaccurately bored or bushed1 or being located on a sprung shaft length1 its rim line is not at right angles to the shaft line1 the method shown in ,fig4 #cc can be resorted to4 ,instead of the nail used in methods #a and #b1 use a board about #h to #ab inches long and of a width equal to considerably more than half of shaft ,b's diameter4 ,by nailing this board x to the measuring rod c at any suitable angle1 you will be enabled to reach from the end a well into the shaft ,b1 as at b1 and from b well into ,a1 as a4 ,by keeping the board x along its entire length in full contact with the shaft ,b at both #a and #b1 the angular position of rod ,c is bound to be the same in both instances1 and you will thus 7by the use of a square1 as in ,fig4 #ca7 be enabled to aline ,a parallel with ,b4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,in all instances of parallel adjustment here cited it is assumed that both the alined and the alined-to shafts have been1 as to secure accuracy of result they must be1 properly leveled before starting to aline4 ,the above methods apply to cases where the shafting is already in place4 ,where1 however1 shafting is being newly installed before the work can be proceeded with1 it is necessary1 after determining on the location for the shafting1 to get a line on the ceiling in parallel with the driving shaft to which to work to4 ,mark that point ,a which you intend to be the center line for the proposed shafting upon the ceiling 7,fig4 #cd74 ,rest your measuring rod upon the driving shaft and at right angles to it1 with the nail against it4 ,hold your square with the stock below and the tongue against the side of the measuring stick1 so that its tongue extremity touches the ceiling mark ,a1 and then mark a line on the rod along the tongue side ,a4 ,move your rod along the driving shaft to the point where the other end of the proposed shafting line is to be1 and1 squaring your stick to the driving shaft with the tongue side ,a on the marked line of the stick1 mark your section point on the ceiling4 ,draw a line or stretch a string between these points1 and you have a true parallel to work to4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cd4 ,owing to the supporting timber ,b's interference1 a square had to be used2 but where the ceiling is clear the rod can be cut to proper length or the nail be so located as to allow of using the stick extremity ,c for a marking point4 ,when a pulley is handily situated on the driving shaft1 the method shown in ,fig4 #ce can be used to advantage4 ,let somebody hold one end of a line at #a1 and when you have got its other end so located on the ceiling that the line just touches the pulley rim at #b1 mark that ceiling point 7we will call it #c74 ,in the same way get your marks #d and #e1 each farther back than the other and1 for the better assurance of accuracy1 as to just touching at #b1 remove and readjust the line separately each time4 ,if now a straight line from #c to #e cuts #d1 your line #c1 #d1 #e is at right angles to the driving shaft and a line at right angles to this will be parallel to the shaft4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ce4 ,the plumb-bob method is so familiar and1 where not familiar1 so easily thought out in its various applications1 that we deem it useless to touch upon it4 ,the stringers or supporting timbers of drop hangers should be equal in thickness to about one-fifth of the hanger drop4 ,where the stringers run with the hangers and crosswise of the shaft1 both feet of a hanger base are bolted to the same stringer1 and this should be from #a-a_/d to #a-a_/b times the width of the widest portion of the hanger base4 ,as the hanger is securely bolted to its stringer1 this extra width is in effect an enlargement of the hanger base1 and thus enables it the better to assist the shaft's end motion4 ,where the stringers run with the shaft and crosswise of the hangers1 the two feet of the hanger base are each fastened to a separate timber1 and these should be equal in width to the length of one hanger foot1 plus twice the amount of adjustment 7if there be any7 the hanger's supporting bolt slots will allow it4 ,in reckoning hanger adjustment1 be sure to figure in the bolt's diameter and to bear in mind that to get the utmost adjustment for the countershaft the bolts should originally be centered in the slot2 thus a #ac_/af #a-a_/b-;inch slot1 as it calls for a #c_/d-;inch bolt1 leaves a #c_/d-;inch play1 and this play1 with the bolt in the center of the slot1 allows of #c_/h-;inch adjustment either way4 ,without this extra width addition any lateral adjustment of the hanger would result in leaving a part of the hanger's feet without stringer support4 ,such jobs look poorly1 and often run still more poorly4 ,fig4 #cf1 in its two views1 will make the above points clear4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cf4 ,in the stringing of countershafts whose hangers have no adjustment it often happens1 despite all care in the laying out1 that they come #a_/h to #a_/d inch out of parallel4 ,a very common and likewise very dangerous practice at such times is to substitute a smaller diameter supporting bolt instead of the larger size for which the hanger foot is cored or drilled1 and to make use of the play so gained for adjustment4 ,that shafting so carried does not come down oftener than it does is due solely to the foresight of the hanger manufacturers4 ,they1 in figuring the supporting bolt's diameter as against the strain and load to be sustained1 are careful to provide an ample safety margin for overload1 thus enabling the bolt substituted to just barely come within the safety limit under easy working conditions4 ,the largest-sized bolt that a hanger will easily admit should invariably be used1 and for alinement purposes either of the following slower but safer methods should be used4 ,rebore the hanger-supporting bolt holes in the stringers to a larger size1 and use the play so gained for adjustment4 ,it is not advisable1 however1 to rebore these holes any larger than to one and three-quarter times the diameter of the bolt to be used2 and the diameter of the washers to be used on top of the stringers should be diametrically equal to at least twice the size of the rebored holes4 ,that the washers used1 under such conditions1 must be of a good proportionate thickness goes without saying4 ,when the reboring method cannot be used--as when the hangers are carried by lag screws1 lag-bolts1 bolts screwed directly into supporting iron girders1 etc4--it is evident that hanger adjustment can be secured by packing down one foot of the hanger base1 as shown in ,fig4 #cg4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cg4 ,the piece of packing 7necessarily wedge-shaped7 between the hanger foot ,b and the stringer ,a tilts the bottom of the hanger forward4 ,the size of the wedge regulates the amount of adjustment4 ,wedge-shaped space ,d1 at foot ,c1 should also be packed out so as to avoid throwing undue strain upon ,c's extremity c4 ,if now1 the foot c of the countershaft's other supporting hanger 7,no4 #b7 be similarly and equally packed1 as ,b of ,no4 #a hanger1 the shaft will have been thrown forward at one end and back at the other1 and thus into line4 ,the equal division of the adjusting wedge packing between the opposite feet of the two hangers enables a limited packing to do considerable adjusting without any undue marring effect2 and1 further1 insures the shaft's remaining level1 which evidently would not be the case if only one hanger were packed down4 ,after so adjusting1 be sure to get your hangers squarely crosswise of the shaft as readjusted1 so that the hanger bearings will lie in a true line with the shaft and not bind it4 ,at all times be sure to have your hangers hang or stand plumb up and down2 as1 if the bearings are not so pivoted as to be horizontally self-adjusting1 excessive friction will be the lot of one end of the bearing with not even contact for the rest of it4 ,the bearing being self-adjusting all ways1 square crossing of the shaft line by the hanger line and plumb still remain eminently desirable for appearance's sake4 ,before a countershaft can be put up on a ceiling whose supporting timbers are boarded over1 or in a modern fireproof structure whose girders and beams are so bricked and plastered in as not to show1 it is necessary to positively locate those of them which are to carry the stringers4 ,it is in the earnest endeavor to properly locate these that the unaccustomed hand turns a wood ceiling into a sieve and a brick one into a wreck4 ,to avoid kitchen and house razing effects1 try the following recipe3 ,we will assume that line ,a ,b1 ,fig4 #ch1 laid out by one of the methods previously described1 is the center line of the proposed countershaft4 ,the hanger's base length1 lateral adjustment and individual foot length call for stringers #d-c_/d inches wide1 placed #e-a_/d inches apart or #ad-c_/d inches outside 7as per sketch74 ,the floor position of the machine to be driven1 or the driving point of the main shaft1 is so located with reference to the countershaft that one of the supporting hangers must go at or very near ,c1 and the countershaft's length brings the other hanger at or very near ,d4 ,now between points ,c ,d and with due reference to the center line ,a ,b1 lay out the position which your stringers are to occupy4 ,it is self-evident that by confining your beam prospecting to the stringer spaces ,e and ,f1 ultimately1 when the countershaft is in place1 all the cut-up portions of the ceiling will be hidden from view4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ch4 ,generally the necessary supporting beams will not all be found within the shaft's length distance ,c ,d2 in such cases continue your cutting in the same parallel line to ,a ,b1 as at ,e or ,f1 going from ,c ,d outwardly until you strike the sought-for beams4 ,having located beams1 say #a and #b1 we find by measurement that they are #e feet apart1 and1 as beams are generally uniformly spaced1 we may start #d feet #f inches 7go #d feet #f inches and not #e feet1 to make sure not to skip beam #c and thus make a cut that will not be covered by the stringers7 from #a to cut outwardly for the location of beam #c4 ,where the building's beams run parallel to the shaft1 ,fig4 #ci1 mark the counter's-center line ,a ,b1 and then mark the spaces--as determined by the countershaft length1 floor position of the driven machine or the driving point on the main shaft--to be occupied by the stringers ,c ,d1 and1 starting from the center line ,a ,b1 cut outwardly each way to the desired beams #a and #b4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ci4 ,where the center line as laid out 7before the position of the ceiling beams was known7 brings it close to or directly under a supporting beam1 it is generally advisable where possible to step the counter back or forward to a central position between the beams4 ,where shafting is already in place in a building1 no matter on what floor1 valuable measurements as to beam location can thus be had from the plainly in sight and the reasonably deducible4 ,lacking in-place-shafting to go by1 the walls1 columns and main girders always clearly indicate the crosswise or parallel run of the ceiling beams to the proposed shafting line4 ,in the usual method of locating the timbers of a boarded-over ceiling1 a brace and bit1 or a nail1 can be used for the purpose4 ,if shy of an awl1 and in preference the other two ways1 force or drive a chisel 7cold chisel or wood7 in between a tongue and groove of the ceiling boards in stringer space 7,fig4 #ch7 ,e or ,f1 and thus spring the boards sufficiently apart to insert a compass saw4 ,with the extremity of a #ab-;inch saw a very little cutting 7along the tongue and groove1 as this shows least7 will enable you to locate a beam1 since they generally run #h1 #ab1 #af1 #bj1 #bd and #cj inches apart4 ,always1 on locating your beam1 run the point of your compass saw down the whole of the timber's width1 so that any nailed-on pieces will not lead you into a false estimate of the beam's thickness4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #da4 ,figs4 #dj and #da make this point and its object clear4 ,the saw1 in ,fig4 #dj1 being stopped by ,a1 naturally leads to the inference that ,a ,b is the timber's thickness4 ,by running down the timber1 as in ,fig4 #da1 the saw's point sticking at a acts as a sure detector4 ,this precaution should be taken on both sides 7,b and ,a7 of the timber1 and then1 when the lags are screwed in1 they can be sent home safe and true in the center of the timber4 ,it often happens that in boring for the lag screws the bit strikes a nail and further progress at that point seems out of the question4 ,when so situated1 take your bit out1 and running the lag screw up as far as it will go1 by sheer force swing it three or four turns up further than the point where your bit struck4 ,removing the lag and replacing the bit1 it will be found that the nail has been forced aside and the way is now clear4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #db4 ,hook bolts 7,fig4 #db7 or--as our across-the-sea cousins call them--elbow bolts1 despite all assertions to the contrary1 are an easy1 safe and economical stringer fastener or suspending device4 ,figs4 #dc and #dd illustrate two very common abuses of the hook bolt4 ,in the one 7,fig4 #dc71 instead of the bolt proper lying snug up against the beam flange with the whole of its hook resting squarely upon the beam's flange1 its supporting countershaft is turned into a menace to limb and life by this chance it kind of erection4 ,in the other 7,fig4 #dd71 though the bolts do lie snug against the flange1 the hook being out of sight and no means being provided for telling whether the hook lies1 as it should1 at right angles to the web of the beam1 even if properly placed at installation1 timber shrinkage1 vibration or a slight turn of the bolt when tightening the nut1 all constitute dangerous factors tending to loosen or entirely loosen the hook's grip upon the beam flange4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dd4 ,fig4 #dc suggests its own remedy4 ,as to ,fig4 #dd1 a screwdriver slot 7made by a hacksaw7 at the nut end of the hook bolt and running in the same direction as the hook1 ,fig4 #de1 will at all times serve to indicate the hook's position and1 allowing as it does of a combined use of screwdriver and wrench1 it can be used to prevent the bolt's turning when being tightened4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #de4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #df4 ,where two or more hook bolts are placed close together on the same beam flange1 a plate1 preferably wrought iron with properly spaced confining pins for the hooks1 may be placed between the beam flange and the hooks as in ,fig4 #df4 ,its benefits are obvious and so likewise is the use of a small1 square1 wrought-iron plate with a bolt hole through its center instead of hook bolts4 ,the various styles of beam clamps carried by the hardware and supply trade all have their good points1 and though the ,c of their cost may seem to loom large1 it is not a whit more emphatic1 taken all in all1 than the ,w of their worth4 ,,iv ,,truing ,,up ,,line ,,shafting ,,it is assumed1 for the purposes of this description1 that the modern style of shafting1 increasing in diameter by the #a_/b inch1 is used1 and that all pulleys and belts are in place4 ,we will take a line composed of sizes ranging between #c-ae_/af and #b-g_/af inches4 ,this gives us four sizes1 #c-ae_/af1 #c-g_/af1 #b-ae_/af and #b-g_/af inches in the line4 ,we will first consider the plumb-bob4 ,the accompanying sketch1 ,fig4 #dg1 illustrates a good one4 ,the ball is #a-a_/b inches diameter1 and the large end of the tapered stem #a_/b inch in diameter1 turned parallel for a short distance at the lower end4 ,the two thin sheet-steel disks1 #a and #b inches in diameter1 are drilled to fit snugly when pushed on to the #a_/b-;inch part of the stem1 and stay there until pulled off4 ,these disks are turned true4 ,this arrangement of plumb-bob and disks enables us to deal with five sizes on one line1 and there are not many lines that contain more4 ,now having our plumb-bob ready1 we will stretch the line4 ,the stretchers should be set horizontally by nailing a strip of wood1 say #a #a-a_/b #ab inches1 with a piece at each end to form a space between it and the wall1 or place of location in line with the edge of the shaft1 as in ,fig4 #dh4 ,the top of this stretcher should be low enough to clear the largest pulley1 and high enough to clear the hat of your tallest man4 ,you would perhaps find it convenient to go between the spokes of a large pulley4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dg4 ,now having located your stretcher1 find approximately the position of your line1 and drive a nail a foot or more below it in a vertical line1 and another nail anywhere for convenient winding4 ,the advantage of this plan is that the line can be easily adjusted as it merely passes over the stretcher1 and is free to respond to movement either way2 then when the final adjustment is made1 and is ready for its final stretch1 it is only necessary to pinch the line to the nail with one hand1 while the other is at liberty to unwind1 stretch and rewind the line without fear of its shifting4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dh4 ,the line being adjusted over the stretchers1 we will now proceed to set it4 ,begin at the #b-g_/af-;inch end1 by throwing your plumb line over the shaft and setting your line at that end1 right with the center point of your bob4 ,having done so1 go to the other or #c-ae_/af end of your line1 and set the line so that the edge of the ball of your bob just touches it4 ,now go back to the #b-g_/af end and see that the necessary adjustment did not alter it4 ,having proved this1 give your line the final stretch and try if it is right at both ends4 ,you now have a center line 7though the edge instead of the center of the shaft is used7 that may remain up for days if necessary without fear of disturbance4 ,it is best to go over the whole line first1 before disturbing anything2 so starting at the first hanger at the #b-g_/af-;inch end1 throw your plumb line over the shaft1 and record on the floor in chalk beneath it whether it is ,o4 ,k4 or wants to go either way1 and how much2 then go to the next hanger1 and so on to the end4 ,a short study of the conditions enables one to correct the faults1 with a knowledge of the requirements1 and consequently in the least time and with the least trouble4 ,now suppose we start at the #b-g_/af-;inch end to inspect the line1 we use the center point of the bob on the line so long as we are testing #b-g_/af inches4 ,when we get to the #b-ae_/af-;inch part1 which is #a_/b inch larger1 we use the half diameter of the stem1 the edge of which should just touch the line4 ,when we come to the #c-g_/af-;inch part1 #a inch larger than #b-g_/af1 we use the #a-;inch disk1 slip it on to the stem1 and when it just touches the line with its edge it is ,o4 ,k4 ,the #c-ae_/af-;inch1 being #a-a_/b inches larger than the #b-g_/af-;inch1 will be right when the ball of the bob is in light contact with the line4 ,the #b-;inch disk would be suitable for the next size1 and other disks or modifications of the bob proper might be made to suit circumstances4 ,now having straightened the line1 the next process is to level it4 ,as in some cases your pulleys will be too close to place your level where you want1 make a light iron frame as per ,fig4 #di1 making the suspending members of sufficient length to admit of your reading the level conveniently when standing on the floor4 ,hang your frame on the shaft1 and put your level on the straight-edge below2 in this way travel along the shaft1 placing your frame where convenient4 ,be sure that one end of your frame does not rest on a shaft of different diameter1 a key1 keyseat1 or anything to distort the reading4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #di4 ,never be content with trying your level1 especially an adjusting level1 one way2 always reverse it and try again2 for if it is out of truth at the start1 you might want to go through the roof or down cellar at the finish4 ,get into a habit of reversing your level1 and so prove your work as you proceed4 ,v ,,apparatus ,,for ,,leveling ,,and ,,lining ,,shafting ,,the first apparatus explained in this chapter was designed by the late ,chas4 ,a4 ,bauer1 and is a highly perfected instrument4 ,for those who have lined and leveled shafting with an engineer's transit and level it is unnecessary to say anything of the advantages of that method over the cruder methods usually employed4 ,it is not only done much more rapidly and economically1 but the greater accuracy with which the work is done goes on paying dividends in decreased friction and loss of power and in lessening of wear4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ej4 ,the apparatus we now illustrate 7,fig4 #ej7 has at the top a hook1 which is passed over the shaft1 as indicated2 on the straight portion of this hook are two sliding jaws which are so set that the shaft will just pass between them4 ,set into the face of this hook is a commercial #f-;inch steel rule which facilitates the setting of the jaws1 and they are of course so set that the tubular portion of the hook or leveling rod is centered vertically under the shaft4 ,within the outer tube1 which is about #a inch outside diameter and nicely japanned1 is another tube1 and inside this a third tube1 these being arranged la telescope slide1 and clamps being provided so that the length or distance from the shafting to the target may be anything desired from #d to about #aj feet4 ,at the lower end of the third or inner tube is a swiveling head to which the target is attached1 and nurled nuts at this point give means of adjusting the sighting point of the target to the exact hight of the transit or level sighting line4 ,the target is a brass plate #e-a_/b inches diameter1 on the face of which is a recess milled for the reception of a second commercial steel rule1 which in this case is vertical and can be moved vertically and clamped in any desired position with reference to a line drawn upon the target4 ,at the center of this scale is a very small hole through which the light of a hand flash lamp may shine to form the sighting point4 ,the slot through the target at the right of the scale is provided with a single thickness of white cloth1 which permits enough light to pass through it to help in finding the target in the field of the telescope4 ,the object of providing a vertical adjustment for the rule on the target is so that when passing from one diameter of shafting to another in the same line1 as sometimes happens1 the scale can be moved up or down just half the difference of diameter and the sighting point thus be kept at a constant hight4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ea4 ,the target is readily detached from the rod1 and may then be placed upon the small standard 7,fig4 #ea7 which has at its base a ,v adapted to go over the shaft4 ,the standard is tubular and the wire 7about #a_/h inch diameter7 may be adjusted and clamped at the desired hight4 ,the target fits over the wire as shown 7rear view of target7 for leveling lines of shafting that may be near the floor1 or1 with the target removed1 the ,v and wire form a sort of length gage or caliper with which the shaft may be made parallel to a line or wire stretched at the side of it4 ,two different lengths of wire are provided for this purpose4 ,the plumb-bob shown is part of the equipment and is a very superior article4 ,a new feature it possesses is in having its larger portion hexagonal instead of round1 so when laid down upon a plank or scaffolding it will lie there instead of promptly rolling off and falling to the floor4 ,the entire apparatus is1 we think1 very well designed for its purpose4 ,,tool ,,for ,,leveling ,,shafting ,the instrument shown in ,fig4 #eb is a good one for use in leveling up shafting4 ,it can be made to fit several sizes of shaft1 or all the sizes ordinarily found in a factory4 ,when the instrument is placed on any piece of shaft and leveled up with the attached level1 the plumb line will hang exactly the same distance from the shaft center every time4 ,in this case the distance of line from center is #f inches4 ,a handy apparatus for use in leveling up long lines of shaft can be made as follows4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ec4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ed4 ,take two pieces of finished material1 fasten together as in ,fig4 #ec and cut out as shown at ,a and ,b in ,fig4 #ed4 ,the opening ,a is made so that the piece can be hung over the shaft1 and the opening ,b is made for the reception of a wooden straight-edge4 ,make the straight-edge out of #a-a_/d-;inch stuff4 ,be sure that the edges are parallel1 the width just enough less than the width of opening ,b1 ,fig4 #ee1 to enter it1 and the length #f or #h feet1 to suit convenience4 ,use the apparatus with a level1 as in ,fig4 #ee1 taking care that the suspension pieces are always on the same size shaft4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ee4 ,,vi ,,some ,,practical ,,kinks#d ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ef4 ,a ,,pulley on one of the motors at a certain plant had been giving some trouble by becoming loose and working its way along the shaft toward the motor bearing4 ,each time the pulley became loose1 the set-screw was loosened1 the pulley put back in position1 the set-screw made tight and the motor started4 ,after a few trials it was found that this would not prevent the pulley from working its way along the shaft4 ,in order to overcome this difficulty the pulley was placed in its proper position1 a line was drawn around the shaft close to the hub and1 after the line was scribed1 the pulley was removed and the shaft was burred upon the line as shown at ,b1 ,fig4 #ef4 ,the pulley was then put back and driven close up to the burred line1 the set-screw made tight and the pulley is now running without any apparent tendency to travel from its proper position4 ,it will be seen that the position of the set-screw as indicated by the line at ,a is a poor one and calculated to give plenty of trouble at the most inopportune time4 #d ,contributed to ,power by ,wm4 ,kavanagh4 ,not long ago a cast-iron pulley had to move along a countershaft in order to make room for a pulley of another diameter4 ,the pulley had not been on the shaft long1 so it was thought that little work would be required to move it4 ,a heavy bar was placed against the hub and a sledge hammer was used to strike the bar4 ,after an hour and a half of heavy work the pulley was not moved over #a inch 7it had to be moved #af inches71 so it was suggested that a ,bunsen burner be attached to a gas pipe by means of a hose and placed beneath the hub4 ,the plan was immediately adopted4 ,the burner was placed beneath the hub1 the gas lit and allowed to heat the hub4 ,after about twenty-five minutes it was found that a blow from the bar was sufficient to move the pulley4 ,the pulley was moved the #af inches inside of twenty minutes4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eg4 ,a very handy arrangement for moving pulleys is a bolt and nut4 ,fig4 #eg shows the bolt and nut with a piece of pipe attached4 ,a piece of pipe can be cut to suit the distance between the nut and hub of one pulley while the bolt head is against the other hub4 ,the nut is screwed back upon the bolt as far as possible4 ,a washer is then placed against the nut1 and a piece of pipe cut to suit4 ,of course1 the pipe must be large enough in diameter to fit over the bolt4 ,if we screw back upon the nut1 a powerful strain can be brought to bear between the hubs and in all probability the pulley will move4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eh4 ,in taking down solid pulleys from main or counter shafting it sometimes happens that a hanger must be removed to permit the pulley to be taken off4 ,a first-rate plan is to make a couple of long bolts hooked at the end as shown in ,fig #eh2 pass the hook around the shaft and the threaded end through a hole in the stringer4 ,by screwing up the nut as shown1 the shaft and remaining pulleys can be kept in position1 obviating the use of tackle1 not to mention the labor required to hoist back the shaft into position4 ,the application of this contrivance is especially valuable where heavy cone pulleys are required to be lowered or changed4 ,it will be seen that if we employ a pipe thread we will be enabled to suit almost any condition of length that may arise between the shaft and stringer4 ,,vii ,,practical ,,methods ,,of ,,loosening ,,pulleys ,,when a solid pulley is to be removed from a piece of shaft for any reason1 it is not good policy to use sledge hammers on the spokes or hub to do it4 ,cast iron in pulleys is too liable to break or crack under repeated blows4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ei4 ,in ,fig4 #ei one ready method is illustrated by which the pulley may be removed4 ,when a place between two walls can be found that will admit of this arrangement1 proceed as shown to force the shaft through the pulley1 substituting longer pieces of pipe as the shaft is forced through farther4 ,in one case where a large pulley was stuck on a #g-;inch shaft and its removal was imperative1 the shaft was sawed off 7with large hack-saws7 close up to the pulley hub and two #e_/h-;inch holes were drilled into the shaft parallel to its axis1 as shown in ,fig4 #fj4 ,these holes were drilled so that they were #ij degrees apart and came within #a_/af-;inch of the hub of the pulley4 ,the hub was #ad inches through and these holes were #h inches deep2 but that was enough to loosen up the shaft so that when the pulley was laid over on beams with the shaft hanging through1 a sledge hammer applied on the shaft end soon drove it out4 ,another way to remove a pulley is shown in ,fig4 #fa1 where a ram is used4 ,the ram is another piece of old shaft4 ,to prevent its damaging the pulley hub and also to have its force applied most advantageously1 it should be used in a direct line with the direction of removal4 ,to do this1 the method shown in ,fig4 #fa is self-explanatory4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fj4 ,another good method of removing an obdurate pulley is illustrated in ,fig4 #fb1 where the bolts ,w1 ,w must have long threads and the work is done by pulling up on the nuts ,a1 ,a4 ,this method can be used only when the end of the shaft can be reached and used as shown4 ,in using this method1 care must be exercised in the pulling up on the bolts ,w1 ,w1 keeping the strain equally divided between the two by pulling a little at a time on each4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fa4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fb4 ,if the pulley comes extra hard1 it can be assisted when the strain is on the bolts by striking at ,x with a sledge4 ,a good device for removing motor and generator pulleys that are near the shaft end is shown in ,fig4 #fc4 ,the arms ,z1 ,z are adjustable to take hold of hub or arms1 and the screw applied to the shaft center will do the rest4 ,to run a pulley off a shaft without injury to the hands1 use a monkey wrench on the rim of each pulley1 as shown in ,fig4 #fd4 ,one pulley on the shaft can be selected for a hold-back2 one monkey wrench there will hold the shaft from turning1 while the other will turn around the shaft the pulley which it is intended to remove4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fd4 ,,viii ,,splicing ,,leather ,,belts#e ,,the first thing is the tools for the different kinds of work4 ,these may be usually changed somewhat to suit the taste of the user1 but in the main the style and kind herein shown in attached drawings cannot be very much improved upon4 #e ,contributed to ,power by ,walter ,e4 ,dixon1 ,m4 ,e4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fe4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ff4 ,figs4 #fe and #ff show a splice opener for heavy belts4 ,it is made of #a_/b-;inch tool steel with the point spread out about #b inches wide and well tempered1 after which it is ground to a good sharp edge1 and then an oil stone run over the edge until it has been dulled so that it will not cut4 ,the right kind of an edge can only be secured by trying2 it is one of the tools that is very hard to get just right4 ,you will notice that the manner in which this splitter is built may seem to be rather too much work to bestow on such a simple tool1 but the reasons for so doing are as follows3 in opening a #cf-;inch belt an old splice opener that was driven into the handle like an ordinary file was used and the handle split2 that sharp point came back through the handle1 and when it finally stopped it had gone about #b inches into the palm of the operator's hand4 ,some #a_/b-;inch hexagon steel was turned down #f inches1 just enough to round it up2 then a solid brass washer was turned out #a-a_/d inches in diameter and #a inch thick1 a hole bored through it that was a driving fit on the piece of steel and was driven down to the shoulder4 ,washers were cut out of old pieces of belt and put on with a liberal coat of glue on both sides2 when the handle was filled1 a steel washer which was #a_/b inch thick was screwed down hard on the leather washers1 and when it had dried well the whole was turned down to size shown in the sketch4 ,two of these tools were made1 one for belts up to #ah inches1 and another that will reach through a #dj-;inch belt4 ,the tool shown in ,fig4 #fg is an ordinary heavy screwdriver with the point rounded nicely1 and it is used to raise the thin points that the larger tool will sometimes tear4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fg4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fh4 ,fig4 #fh shows a handle made almost like the one in ,fig4 #fe1 with the exception that the brass washer referred to in ,fig4 #fe is here turned down to #c_/d inch1 commencing #a_/b inch from the large end1 which is #a inch in diameter4 ,the leather washers are slipped on over the small part until it is filled1 and then a washer is screwed on the small end and the whole turned as shown in the sketch4 ,a hole that will tap out #c_/h inch is bored in the large end of the brass center1 and then tools made with threaded ends on them that will fit into it4 ,these tools are made of #c_/h-;inch tool steel with scraping ends1 as shown4 ,these scrapers are used only for removing glue that is too hard and too thick to be removed by the scraper shown in ,fig4 #fi4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fi4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fi;a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fi;b4 ,figs4 #fi1 #fi;a and #fi;b show views of the only tool that is hardly worth being referred to as a leather-cutting tool4 ,it is made of a thin piece of steel1 about #ah gage1 or any old hand-saw will make the very best scrapers that can be secured4 ,they should be about #d inches square1 perhaps a little smaller1 and fixed in a hardwood handle 7usually of hard maple71 simply by sawing about #b-a_/b inches into the handle and then driving the blade in4 ,the saw cut should be just a trifle thinner than the piece of steel4 ,should they get loose from use1 a piece of paper folded over the back of the blade and forced back into the handle with the blade will usually tighten it all right4 ,this is the tool that will ordinarily worry the novice more than all the rest to keep in proper condition4 ,fig4 #gj shows an exaggerated view of how the blade should look when properly finished4 ,it should be hooked considerably4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gj4 ,fig4 #ga shows a small steel for sharpening the scraper after it is turned1 and it should be absolutely smooth4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ga4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gb4 ,fig4 #gb shows the equipment for turning the edge of the scrapers4 ,a large three-cornered file1 about #ab inches long1 which has all the teeth ground carefully off of it and then nicely polished1 is fastened to a piece of good clean belt leather by means of the staples shown4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gc4 ,fig4 #gc shows the method employed in turning the edge of the scraper1 which is as follows3 ,after the blade has been set firmly in the handle1 grind the edge rounding1 as is shown in ,fig4 #fi2 then grind sharp with a good long taper of about #c_/h1 and grind from both sides just as you would an ordinary axe4 ,after you have a good smooth edge on it1 put it on an oil or water stone and put as fine an edge as possible on it1 then put on a smooth piece of leather and hone it down until it would shave you4 ,you will then have a tool that will do a world of work for you1 if you will turn it right4 ,the method shown in ,fig4 #gc1 if properly carried out1 will do the trick for you2 the thing to be remembered is that at no time in the turning of the scraper must the cutting edge bear on the smooth file4 ,the first position is not shown right2 the handle should be allowed to touch the file the first few times it is passed over1 and then gradually raise the handle and keep on passing the blade from side to side1 as is shown in ,fig4 #gd2 allowing it to slip off on the leather every time you cross the file2 this is to keep the corners in proper shape4 ,another thing to remember is to bear down on the blade as it is passed over the file2 you can't bear too hard2 the only thing to look out for is not to raise the handle too fast4 ,an ordinary blade can be turned in about fifty strokes across the file4 ,the edge turned over should be at least #a_/af inch long and should be well hooked1 as is shown in ,fig4 #gc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gd4 ,it is well to keep on hand about six of these scrapers1 and as they get too dull to cut leather use them on glue4 ,with one good scraper that is not too sharp all the glue can be cleaned off of both points of a #cf-;inch belt in from five to ten minutes4 ,when the edge gets a trifle dull1 use the small steel on both sides of the edge2 first wet the steel with the lips1 it makes a much better edge4 ,for the benefit of beginners who may attempt to splice a belt for the first time1 do not use a glue that will not allow you to remove the clamps and put on the full load in forty-five minutes after the glue has been applied and well rubbed down4 ,the time given here applies only to clean belts that are absolutely free from all oils1 and does not include old oil-soaked leather that no glue will ever dry on4 ,fig4 #ge shows the equipment necessary to do a good1 quick job on a belt1 and most of them are required to be done quickly and well4 ,with such an outfit and half-dozen sharp scrapers a joint in a #cf-;inch belt can be made and run again in four hours after the engine is stopped4 ,this includes all the time consumed in putting on and taking off the clamps1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ge4 ,the top of the platform1 #gf;d1 is level with the bottom of the belt and is held in position by the hooks1 #gf;b1 which are shown in ,figs4 #ge and #gf4 ,these hooks slip over the #bd-;inch pieces that project outside the platform to which they are attached1 and should be made of three-quarter iron and not too long1 or some difficulty may be experienced in getting them on the two-by-fours4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gf4 ,the rods should be long enough to take care of the longest possible splice and still give plenty of room to work4 ,there should be about #b-a_/b feet between the inside ends of the threads and the threaded end should be #c feet long4 ,this will make the rod #h feet #f inches long1 and it will be none too long at that4 ,for instance1 in removing the glue from the splice1 if the last end point is very close to the clamp1 there will be great difficulty in cleaning it and also in fitting the leather after the belt has been shortened4 ,what is meant by the head end splice is the one that is on the pulley first--the arrows in ,figs4 #gg and #gh will make this clear3 they indicate the direction in which the belt should run2 therefore that end of the piece of leather that is on the pulley first is the head end 7or first end7 and the end that leaves the pulley last is the last end4 ,if the two belts shown in the sketch were reversed1 the points would be turned up by everything that touched them2 whereas1 running in the direction that they do1 everything that touches them has a tendency to rub them down4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gg4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gh4 ,we will suppose that the belt shown in ,fig4 #ge had a first end point that opened on the top of the belt instead of the bottom as this one does 7see left-hand end of belt between the clamps1 on the lower side72 one can easily see how hard it would be to work if the clamp were near the point4 ,there should always be enough room between the clamps to allow the splicer to take the last end 7which is always the forked end71 carry it entirely over the clamp toward the left in ,fig4 #ge1 lay it down on that part of the belt that is outside the clamp and slip an extra splicing board under it4 ,fasten the two belts and splicing board all together by means of a couple of #h-;inch hand-screws 7of which every belt splicer should have at least six or eight72 then clean and shape it to suit the other end4 ,it can be passed back over the clamp from time to time and tried for a fit4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gi4 ,the proper mode of procedure in splicing a belt on the pulleys is as follows3 ,decide on where the belt is to be opened1 and always open it in the worst place in the belt for that is the place you certainly want to fix4 ,pay no attention whatever to any former splicing place that may be in the belt1 but take it apart at any place where you are sure repairs are actually necessary4 ,first put in the most convenient place possible the point that you have decided to open and then put the clamps in position4 ,if you are sure that it is going to require very hard pulling to get it as tight as you wish1 take a damp cloth1 moisten the inside of the clamps and then sprinkle powdered resin on both upper and lower clamp4 ,put the first end clamp on first1 as this is always the easiest point to clean and fit2 decide how much you will have to take out1 or as near as possible1 measure off this amount on the belt and place the clamp this distance plus about #aj inches from the first end point4 ,this extra #aj inches will give you plenty of room to clean the glue off and also to shorten up the belt the right amount1 for all the shortening must be done on the first end point on account of the ease with which the new scarf can be made4 ,should you try to shorten up from the last end point1 by referring to ,fig4 #gh1 you can easily see the amount of work you would be in for4 ,there would be two thin ends to scarf1 and outside ends at that2 whereas if you shorten up from the first end you make only one thin end and that one in the inside of the belt4 ,the first clamp1 with the center mark of the clamp coinciding with the center of the belt1 should be very tight2 for should it slip when the load is put on1 it will very probably slip in the middle of the belt and may not slip on the edges at all4 ,should you glue it in this condition1 the chances are very much in favor of the outside edges giving away on a heavy load1 due to the middle being too long4 ,after the first clamp is in position and tightened1 put on the second one and leave the bolts loose1 so that it can be slipped easily4 ,then put the belt rods in position with just a full nut on each end and tighten the clamp4 ,tighten the rods enough to take most of the load1 then get the large splitter shown in ,figs4 #fe and #ff and open the joint4 ,the place to commence is between ,x ,x in ,fig4 #ge2 this inclined point is about #d inches long and must be opened at both ends of the splice before the middle is touched4 ,the tool should be entered at ,o1 in ,fig4 #gh1 and worked gradually toward ,a2 when the point is raised to ,a clear across the belt1 open on down to ,c4 ,after both ends of the splice have been opened up in this way1 proceed to open the middle1 which is now an easy task1 there being no thin stock that a separating tool will pass through easily4 ,after the belt is entirely apart tighten up on the rods until the belt is the proper tension and hang the hooks 7#gf;b1 ,fig4 #ge7 on the belt rods4 ,throw the two ends of the belt back over the clamp and put the splicing board in position4 ,after this is in place1 throw the two ends of the belt back on the board and proceed to lay off the scarfs4 ,to do this1 first take a square and get the two thin points perfectly square1 then put the first end point in between them4 ,this is shown very clearly in ,fig4 #gg1 the shaded end being the last end4 ,of course the first end point at ,c1 ,fig4 #gg1 will have to be cut off before the belt will lie down properly2 the amount to cut off of this end will be just as much as you have shortened the distance between the clamps4 ,after the point has been cut to the right length1 take the square and make a mark across the belt1 using the end of the thin point as your measure for length2 then without moving the belt make a mark on the edge of the belt1 showing just where the lower thin point came on the bottom4 ,throw the last end over the left-hand clamp out of the way and scarf down the top of the first end point1 letting the scarf be about #d inches long4 ,be careful not to gouge a hole in the belt where the scarf is started1 but try to make the inclined plane from ,x to ,x perfect2 try to keep the whole surface of this incline true and straight4 ,after the short #d-;inch scarf is finished1 clean the glue off of the inside of the first end2 lap up to where it enters the last end2 then turn it over by bringing it over the right-hand clamp1 place a scarfing board under it and make the scarf shown at ,t1 ,fig4 #ge4 ,now clean all glue off the last end lap and take a sharp scraper like the one shown in ,fig4 #fi or #fi;b1 place a piece of glass under the points that have been previously squared up1 and scarf them down to a knife-edge4 ,after the thin points are properly scarfed1 lay the whole splice back on the splicing board just as it will be when it is glued1 and do any fitting that may be necessary4 ,be very careful to get it thin enough1 or it will make a hammering noise when going over the pulleys4 ,when scarfing down the thin points with the scrapers1 be sure that they are very sharp2 if not1 they will tear the point off when it gets down to an edge2 also give the blade a drawing motion in order to facilitate cutting4 ,it may seem to the novice that to use a piece of glass to scarf on1 when one is using a tool with a razor edge1 is a trifle inconsistent1 but it is not so in the least2 if the blade is held well back at the top and a considerable pressure applied to it1 there will be no danger in the edge actually touching the glass2 the edge is turned past a right-angular position1 or hooked1 and the heel is all that touches the glass4 ,a good piece of plate glass about #ab #ah inches is large enough for any width of belt1 although a piece much smaller will do all right4 ,do not attempt to do any scarfing on the board #gf;d1 for if you do it will be so full of holes that have been gouged by the scraper that it will be ruined for any purpose4 ,this board must be kept smooth in order to be able to do a good job of rubbing down when gluing4 ,never hammer a glue joint in order to set it2 it is just that much unnecessary work and does absolutely no good2 simply get a smooth block of wood #b #f #h inches and rub hard and fast as soon as the glue is applied4 ,do not try to glue more than #f inches in length at one time4 ,use a heavy brush--a high-priced paint brush is the best2 the regular glue brush is about the only thing in existence that will not put on any glue at all--about a #c-;inch brush is the thing2 have the glue just as hot as it is possible to get it4 ,keep the brush in the pot all the time the glue is heating2 also have a strong stick made somewhat like a three-cornered file1 only larger1 in the glue--this last is used to scrape off the brush all the glue that it is possible to get off without allowing the glue to get too cold4 ,when you take the brush out of the pot1 work fast2 get all the glue possible off the brush and get the rest on the belt at once4 ,make two or three fast strokes across the belt and close down the splice and rub for dear life4 ,after the first brushful has been applied 7and rubbed for about two minutes71 have an assistant raise the point up until you can see the glue breaking all across the whole width of the belt4 ,then have a second brush ready and repeat the former process1 with the exception that you need not apply the glue to both sides of the leather as in the first case2 for if you will keep the brush down in the fork between the two laps you will give both sides a coat1 and in addition to the time saved by using this method you will get the joint closed while the glue is hot4 ,as fast as you go across the belt with the brush1 have the assistant roll the belt together after you2 when you have used all the glue out of the brush1 the joint is closed and ready to rub4 ,you will keep the glue much hotter by immediately closing the splice after the brush1 and there is nothing else so important as using hot glue2 as soon as it commences to get shiny on the surface the thing is all off and it will not hold anything4 ,you cannot do any quick work with water in your glue--that is1 unless it is old and has been heated up several times4 ,if this is the case1 it will have to be thinned with water4 ,the proper consistency is about that of a very heavy grade of cylinder oil2 if it is too thin1 it will not dry in any reasonable time and it will also cause pockets in the splice by opening up after the joint has been rubbed1 and the air in the pockets will open the whole splice4 ,in important work never use a glue that will not stick so tightly between every application belt that after rubbing down you can give it a good1 hard pull without its opening up4 ,in all statements regarding the time necessary for the joint to dry1 the belts are considered absolutely clean1 dry and free from all oils4 ,the most disagreeable portion of the belt repairer's work is the splicing and repairing of oil-soaked belts4 ,it is a well-known fact that the action of oil and that of glue are in direct opposition to each other3 the oil prevents sticking and the glue sticks1 if it has a chance4 ,such being the case1 the first thing to do is to eliminate the oil completely1 and the efficiency of your joint will be in direct proportion to your success in getting rid of the oil4 ,to this end secure a large gasoline blow torch1 such as painters use to burn off old paint4 ,if you are not used to it1 be very careful2 at all events1 have a bucket of dry sand to use in case of trouble4 ,just throw the sand on the fire and the fire will go out--that is1 if you can get the sand in the right place4 ,the torch is to be used after the splice has been all completed except the thin points4 ,the flame will burn them if finished1 so leave them tolerably thick until after the oil has been removed2 then finish them as directed before4 ,when the scarfs have been made and the old glue has been removed1 turn the flame 7which should be an almost invisible blue if the torch is working properly7 directly on the leather and move it over all the surface of the splice until the leather has become thoroughly heated2 never allow the flame to remain directed at any point long enough to make the oil in the leather boil4 ,if you do1 the belt is burned4 ,continue to move the flame over the surface of the belt until the leather is so hot that the hand can scarcely be held on it4 ,with one of the scrapers shown in ,figs4 #fi and #fi;b 7#fi;b preferred7 scrape the oil off as the heat raises it up4 ,turn the cutting edge of the scraper up and wipe the oil off after every stroke2 keep the scraping process going right on after the torch2 never allow the leather to cool off until you can get practically no oil and the leather begins to turn brown4 ,by heating the leather and bringing the oil to the surface you do just what the glue does when you put it on an oil-soaked belt without removing the oil4 ,by means of the heat contained in it1 it brings up all the oil near the surface to which it is applied and in consequence does not take any hold on the leather4 ,it will take two men with all the necessary tools and appliances at least six hours of good hard work to remove the oil from a well-soaked #cf-;inch belt--that is1 to remove it to an extent sufficient to warrant the gluing of it4 ,in case of overflows in which the wheel pits are liable to be filled with water1 pour cylinder oil on all belts that are liable to get wet and then remove them from pulleys if they will be covered for more than twenty-four hours1 clean them with gasoline and they will be found to be all right and dry4 ,hold a clean piece of waste against all belts at least twice every twenty hours1 and wipe them clean4 ,,ix ,,the ,,care ,,and ,,management ,,of ,,leather ,,belts#f ,,outside of the direct care and management of high-pressure boilers and the steam lines pertaining thereto1 there is no other part of a power or lighting plant1 mill or factory in which a large number of indirect connected machines are used that is of such vital importance as leather belting and rope drives4 ,the subject under discussion in this chapter will be the former1 and the selection1 care and management thereof4 #f ,contributed to ,power by ,walter ,e4 ,dixon4 ,m4 ,e4 ,the first thing in order will be the selection of a leather belt1 and when we consider that all makers make good belts1 that there are no particular secrets in the belt-making business1 and that in order to get the very best we must take every advantage of all small details in construction1 it stands every engineer and belt user in hand to get all the information available2 for we must remember that the percentage of good hides does not run very high1 that all that are bought go into belt stock of some kind or other1 and that some one must buy the goods that are not quite up to the standard of belt excellence4 ,it is very evident that no man wants anything but the best when he is paying for the best1 and it is also evident that no maker is going to say that he makes inferior goods2 so therefore we must read the quality by what is in sight1 and in the judging of leather that is already made up1 the proposition resolves itself into a very hard one4 ,the two principal things left for an opinion to be based upon as to quality are the relation the pieces that constitute the laps bear to the hide from which they were cut4 ,they should1 in belts running from #ah to #cf inches1 be cut from the center of the hides1 or should be what is known as center stock4 ,of course all belts should be center stock1 but where they are very narrow or so wide that one hide will not be wide enough to make a lap1 then there is always a lot of narrow stock worked in that cannot always be strictly center4 ,the next thing to look out for is brands that are so deep that they destroy the life of the leather and will cause it to break after being used4 ,then look out for the length of lap4 ,if this is too long1 you will know that it runs into the neck1 for about all that it is possible to get out of average hides and still leave nothing in that is not first class is #ed or #ef inches4 ,ordinarily1 you can tell if a lap is center stock by the marks that run down either side of the back bone2 they will be usually a little darker than the rest of the belt4 ,these marks or streaks should be in the center of the belt4 ,the principal objection to neck leather is that it is liable to stretch excessively1 and on this account it will put too much load on the piece immediately opposite it in a double-ply belt2 for the point of one side is in the middle of the lap on the other side4 ,next look out for holes1 which will usually be found so nicely plugged as to escape detection unless subjected to the most careful examination4 ,next in importance is to buy a belt that has already been filled with some good waterproof dressing4 ,it is quite likely that to buy a belt that has been filled means to buy one that perhaps has some bad leather in it that would be seen in a dry oak tan belt1 and also that the adhesive power of the filled belt is not quite equal to the dry one2 but the points that the filled one possesses over the one not filled are1 first and mainly1 it is filled when you buy it with a preparation that does not injure the leather in the least1 and the preparation you will fill it with1 for it will be filled1 will be engine oil and water1 a combination that will ruin any belt made and also get it in six months into a condition that will make a permanent repair with glue impossible1 for machine oil and moisture are strangers to glue and will ever be4 ,more good belts are ruined by being soaked with engine oil until the points come loose and then pulled out of shape than from any other cause4 ,of course you may be able to keep a main engine belt that runs through a damp wheel pit and basement1 and through a long damp tunnel to a main driven pulley that has two big boxes that are just as close to the pulley as a first-class machine designer could put them1 and never get a drop of oil or water on it4 ,but this is not likely4 ,one very common cause of trouble with engine belts is the fact that such belts usually run under the floor1 where there is considerable moisture4 ,then the oil table under the average large ,corliss engine will leak around dash-pots and rocker-arm shafts1 and some oil will fly from the eccentric oil cups1 get into the wheel1 run around the rim and get to the belt2 if the belt is not filled a very few drops of oil will make a large spot on it4 ,then1 if an engine does not run the whole twenty-four hours1 while it is off1 watch4 ,a few drops of water from a leaky valve stem whose bonnet drain is stopped up1 as it will sometimes be1 has a way of getting through the floor and falling on to the belt and running down the inclined inside of it until it finally comes to the flywheel1 which1 with the assistance of its crowning face1 very kindly makes a nice pocket for said water and proceeds to drink it up4 ,result3 the glue is loosened and the belt may come apart in consequence4 ,should there chance to be a point just at the bottom of this pocket1 it will get the glue soft enough to slip but may not open up1 which is much worse than if it did open up2 for it may slip away from the shoulder of the splice for half an inch1 and when the engine is put to work it may close down by running under the wheel and stick4 ,if it does1 the result is that at no very distant day you will find a break at that particular place1 right across the face of the belt4 ,the reason is that the load was all taken off the inside half of the belt by point slipping1 thereby making the inside of the belt too long and putting all the load on the outside4 ,the outside will continue to do all the work until it stretches enough to bring the inside back into service again4 ,during this week or month you have been pulling your load with a single belt1 not a double one1 and after a short time you will find the break referred to above in the shape of a clean1 well-defined crack extending across the belt parallel with the points of the laps4 ,now of course you are going to send for the man who sold you the belt and ask him to fix it4 ,if he is a wise man and understands his business1 he won't do a thing but show you right under that crack a point that does not come up to where it should come4 ,then the thing for you to do is to say to him that the belt is examined every time it is put into service and that you have noticed that the points he refers to all come loose during a run1 that any one knows that a few drops of water would not take any belt to pieces while it was running1 and if it was water1 why did it not take it apart everywhere1 etc8 ,and finally crush him completely by telling him that your men have no time to put a pair of clamps on a belt in order to pull back into its proper position every point that comes loose2 that if they did do it they would have no time for anything else1 especially in the present case1 and that if his people had made the belt right the glue would have held1 anyway4 ,after he has given you a new belt or repaired your old one1 just take my advice and box that flywheel up above the top of the eccentric oil cup1 at least #ab inches1 and get some good1 heavy tin or zinc and put a tight roof over the belt1 under the floor4 ,first put in a ridge pole out of #a-a_/b-;inch pipe1 starting at the face of the wheel and running in the direction of the main driven pulley1 holding it firmly in place at each end with a strong iron clamp4 ,then solder into each edge of the strip of tin1 which should be long enough to reach beyond any possible leak through the floor or oil table1 a piece of #a_/b-;inch pipe1 and put the tin over the ridge pole with a piece of small pipe on either side4 ,ordinarily the belt goes out past the cylinder2 if it runs through a bricked-up runway on its route to the main driven pulley1 just fasten the two pieces of #a_/b-;inch pipe to either wall and have the ridge about #f inches higher than the outside ones4 ,then every drop of oil or water that comes through the floor will fall on to the roof and run down to the walls and be carried down to the floor of the pit and have no chance to touch the belt4 ,one of the most difficult things in the operation of large stations where a large number of belts are used is to keep them thoroughly clean and free from moisture and machine oil1 the latter especially4 ,one very hard problem that confronts all designers of machinery is the prevention of oil leakage from boxes4 ,in several plants with as many as six dynamos of the same kind and the same design1 at least four of the six have leaked oil every time they were run4 ,the others did not leak as a usual thing1 and all were equipped with the most modern methods of holding oil4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hj4 ,now we come to the building of the belt1 and we will notice only such points as interest the engineer or buyer4 ,the first thing is to see that the laps are of uniform thickness1 so that the belt will run quietly2 and it should be absolutely straight when unrolled on the floor4 ,if it has a long1 graceful curve in it1 look out2 for it will not run straight on the pulleys until it has stretched straight1 and by that time one of its edges may be ruined by coming in contact with the floor or some other obstacle4 ,next notice how long the leather is from which it is made4 ,it should not show more than #eb inches1 and then there will be #d inches hidden by the point that is out of sight4 ,then see that the joints are broken properly4 ,for instance1 find the center of any piece of leather on one side of the belt1 and then look on the opposite side and see if the joint is right under your center mark4 ,it should be by all means1 for right here lies the most important thing about the construction of leather belts4 ,a belt whose laps are all the same length1 and which has all its joints broken correctly1 will put the same load on the glue throughout1 and that is what must be done in order to get the best results4 ,see ,fig4 #hj4 ,here we have a belt that is #cf inches in width and a double ply4 ,now suppose there is a draft of #icfj pounds on this belt1 that from point ,a to point ,b is #bf inches1 and that the points are #d inches long4 ,now we have #bf inches plus #d inches plus #d inches times #cf inches for the number of square inches in the glued joint4 ,this equals #abbd square inches2 the total pull on the belt divided by #abbd will equal the load on each square inch of glued joint1 and will equal in this case #g4fe pounds4 ,now instead of assuming distance ,a--,b in ,fig4 #hj to be #bf inches1 let the lower joint get out of step with the upper ones1 and conditions get vastly different4 ,we will suppose that the dimensions are as given in ,fig4 #ha1 as was the case with a new belt that was measured less than one month before the observation was made and we have the following3 ,joint ,a ,b is now only #aj inches1 and we have #aj inches plus #d inches plus #d inches times #cf inches which equals #fdh square inches1 and the lead on the joint is now #ad4dd pounds4 ,you will readily perceive what an important part in the life of the belt1 and the life of everything around the belt as far as that goes1 the proper breaking of the upper and lower joints is4 ,of course the belt maker will tell you that his glue is just as strong as the leather itself1 and he is about right as long as you keep the belt free from oil and water2 but when the belt becomes filled with oil the glue rots and loses its strength much faster than does the leather4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ha4 ,no good belt needs any posts along the sides to make it run straight and stay on the pulleys4 ,if the pulleys are in line and the belt straight1 it will run straight4 ,all belts should be made to run perfectly straight on pulleys1 first on account of the local advertisement that it gives to the man who has charge of them2 second1 if they do not run true1 they will be on the floor or wrapped around the shaft in a very few minutes1 should they ever slip4 ,another very important thing in the care of belts that carry heavy loads is that if any of the points do come loose so far back that they will not return to place without putting on the clamps1 put them on by all means2 as the restoring of this point to place means that you will still retain in service all of your belt1 as you will not do if you glue it down where it is and thereby cut one side completely out of service4 ,,how ,,to ,,clean ,,belting ,we submit the following as the best and proper way of cleaning a leather belt4 ,it may seem simple1 but it is safe and effective1 as has been proved by many people who have thus restored old and dirty belting which had become almost or quite unfit for use4 ,coil the belt loosely and place it on edge in a tank in which it may be covered with naphtha2 a half barrel makes a good receptacle1 but something with a tight cover would save the loss by evaporation4 ,put in enough naphtha to cover the belt completely and allow it to remain for ten or twelve hours2 then turn the belt over1 standing it upon the other edge4 ,the vertical position of the belt surfaces allows the dirt to settle to the bottom of the receptacle as it is washed out1 and permits naphtha to get at all the parts4 ,after the belt has remained in the naphtha another ten or twelve hours1 or until sufficiently clean1 raise it and allow the naphtha to drip back into the tank4 ,then lay the belt flat1 stretching or shaking it until almost dry4 ,you will find that the naphtha will not affect the leather nor the cement in the center of the belt1 but may open the joints at the edges2 in which case the old cement should be scraped off and the edges recemented4 ,your belt man will know how to do this4 ,the belt will now be somewhat hard1 and should be treated with a reliable belt dressing before being replaced on the pulleys4 ,x ,,belting1 ,,its ,,use ,,and ,,abuse#g ,,there is no class of appliances so little understood by the ordinary steam engineer and steam user as belts1 which may be seen by the quantity of belting sold annually4 ,where one can point to a belt that has been in continuous use for twenty years1 you can find hundreds that do not last one-fourth as long4 ,why8 ,not always because the buyer has tried to get something for nothing1 but as a rule1 when they do1 they get nothing for something4 #g ,contributed to ,power by ,wm4 ,h4 ,mc,barnes4 ,the average belt is a poor one1 and the average buyer will not find it out till he has used it for some time4 ,if you weigh the belt dealer up as a man who is trying to rob you1 beat him down in price1 then get him to give from #e to #dj per cent4 off1 he will enter a protest1 and1 after some explanation1 will come to some terms with you4 ,have you gained anything by your cleverness8 ,well1 hardly4 ,belt dealers and makers1 like almost all other dealers in supplies1 aim to get nothing but first-class goods2 but second and third1 and even fourth-class goods1 are made1 and you get the quality you pay for4 ,in the second place1 belts wear out quickly because they do not get proper care4 ,to let a belt run one moment after it gets too slack is bad practice1 for it is apt to slip and burn all the staying qualities out of it4 ,another good reason why it should not be run slack is that the engineer or belt man1 to save work1 would be tempted to put on a dressing or1 worse yet1 put on resin to make it pull1 and1 in the language of ,rex1 the man who will put resin on his belts is either a fool or a knave1 for it is sure to spoil his belt if continued for any length of time4 ,in an emergency1 as when some unforeseen substance has found its way to the belt1 it may be necessary1 to keep from shutting down between hours1 to use some of the so-called dressing4 ,we know from experience that engineers will go to almost any extreme to get out of a tight place--circumstances sometimes make it necessary to keep a belt running when it should not--but this should not be allowed to any extent4 ,to allow a belt to run too tight is just as bad1 for it will make short life for the belt1 hot boxes and scored shafting4 ,there is not one in twenty who takes the time or can splice a belt properly2 it is generally done in a hurry1 any way to make it hold together1 with the understanding that it cannot talk2 but it does4 ,how often we see boards nailed up or rims tacked on to keep belts from getting off the pulleys4 ,all of this is good for the belt dealers4 ,this is not all the fault of the engineer or the belt manufacturer4 ,often belts are made uneven1 and soon get out of shape1 even with the best of care4 ,we sometimes find a belt that ordinarily runs easy on the pulleys and does its work with ease suddenly inclined to run to either one side or the other of the driven pulley4 ,this is caused by one of two things--either the belt has been too slack1 or the load increased for want of lubrication1 or other causes4 ,in either case it will run off if you insist on applying the power4 ,the remedy would be to take up the belt1 thoroughly oil the journals1 or take off the extra load--maybe a combination of all4 ,still a little extra work making the belt tighter will enable it to run well and do the extra work just as long as the extra tension can be maintained4 ,then it may appear perplexing and run to one side of the driven pulley when the driven shaft gets out of line with the driving shaft4 ,in a case of this kind the belt does not run to what is called the high side of the pulley1 but to the low side4 ,another peculiar indication3 ,if two shafts are parallel and there is a high place on the pulley1 then a belt will run to the high place2 but if the shafts are out of line1 or1 in other words1 are not parallel1 and the face of the pulley straight1 then the belt will run to the low side or that closest to the driving shaft4 ,the remedy would be to line up your shafting4 ,the object of this chapter is not to say how belts are made1 but to impress upon the minds of belt users that to get the best results1 belts1 like all good servants1 must be well cared for1 and all responsibility should rest with one man1 just as with your engine or any high-priced machine4 ,,xi ,a ,,comparative ,,test ,,of ,,four ,,belt ,,dressings#h ,,during ,january1 #aije1 a comparative test of the working efficiency of four belt dressings and preservatives was made by ,t4 ,farmer1 ,jr41 and the writer4 ,the test was made on the regular belt-testing machine of ,sibley ,college1 ,cornell ,university1 a full description of which appeared on pages #gje-gjg of ,vol4 #ab1 ,trans4 ,a4 ,s4 ,m4 ,e4 ,this machine tests the belt under actual running conditions1 though our belts were in somewhat better than average condition4 ,the four belts were new #d-;inch ,alexander ,no4 #a oak-tanned single-ply1 and were #cj feet long4 ,particular care was taken to keep them free from oil and dirt4 ,the belts were first tested as received from the manufacturer1 after which each belt was treated with one of the dressings and again tested4 #h ,contributed to ,power by ,william ,evans4 ,the dressings were two semi-solids1 designated ,no4 #a and ,no4 #b2 a bar1 ,no4 #c1 and neatsfoot oil1 ,no4 #d4 ,as the first three are proprietary articles1 it was not thought best to give their names1 though any one familiar with the actions of belt dressings will readily recognize ,no4 #a from its peculiar curve4 ,in applying the dressings1 we followed directions carefully1 and in the case of ,nos4 #b and #c exceeded them4 ,the belt was given a five-hour run1 during which two or three applications of the dressing were given1 and then it was set aside in a warm place to allow it to absorb the applied dressing4 ,after thus soaking for at least forty-eight hours1 the belt was again run1 this time for three hours1 with one more application of the dressing4 ,as ,no4 #c was a bar of sticky dressing1 it will readily be seen that this precaution was not really necessary4 ,no4 #d1 the neatsfoot oil1 was not applied during the last run1 as we were afraid of getting too much oil in the belt4 ,as this oil is so extensively used by engineers for dressing belts1 special care was taken to get the best possible results with it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hb4 ,in ,fig4 #hb1 the result of the test with the neatsfoot oil is shown graphically4 ,this curve is platted to show the relation between initial tension per inch of width and horse-power per inch of width4 ,one reason for the drop in horse-power in the treated belt is that the slip was materially increased2 in the lowest tension at which any power at all was transmitted1 about #ae pounds per inch of width1 the slip ran up as high as #be per cent4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hc4 ,in ,fig4 #hc1 which shows the comparative value of the four dressings1 the highest horse-power delivered to the belt was taken as the standard4 ,the horse-power delivered by the belt was divided by this standard1 and the result1 expressed in percentage1 was used as the percentage of available horse-power transmitted4 ,this comparison shows the great superiority of dressing ,no4 #a at all times1 and especially at low tensions4 ,in looking at this chart1 it is well to remember that ,no4 #c is a sticky dressing4 ,as the time of the test was so short1 we were unable to determine the ultimate effect of the dressings on the leather of the belts4 ,we could only approximate this by a chemical test and a close examination of the belts at the end of each test4 ,the chemical analysis showed no ammonia or rosin in any of the dressings2 ,no4 #b had a trace of mineral acid1 and all had oleic acid as follows3 ,no4 #a1 #j4bg per cent2 ,no4 #b1 #bi4he per cent2 ,no4 #c1 #c4e per cent2 ,no4 #d1 #j4g per cent4 ,the practical test showed no ill effects except from ,no4 #c1 the sticky dressing1 which ripped and tore the surface of the belt4 ,the high initial tensions caused overheating of the journals1 even though we kept them flooded with oil4 ,on the low initial tensions there was no tendency to heat1 even when the maximum horse-power was being transmitted by dressing ,no4 #a4 ,in the latter case we oiled the bearings once in every two or three runs 7a run comprised all the readings for one initial tension71 while in the former we oiled the bearings after each reading and sometimes between them2 even then we were afraid that the babbitt would get hot enough to run4 ,the readings for each run varied in number from two to a dozen1 but only the one giving the maximum horse-power was used in drawing the curves4 ,the belt speeds during the tests varied between #bjjj and #bejj feet per minute1 most of the tests being made at about #bbjj feet per minute4 ,,xii ,,belt ,,creep ,,the question of the minimum amount of slip of a belt in transmitting power from one pulley to another reduces itself to a question of creep1 for it is possible to have belts large enough so that with proper tensions there will be no regular slip4 ,with a difference in tension on the two sides and of elasticity in the belt1 creep1 however1 is bound to take place4 ,what does it amount to and what allowance should be made for it8 asks ,prof4 ,wm4 ,w4 ,bird of the ,worcester ,polytechnic ,institute in his paper under the above title4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hd4 ,in ,fig4 #hd let ,a be the driver and ,b the driven1 ,t#a the tension in the tight side of the belt and ,t#b in the slack side1 the pulleys and belt running in the direction indicated4 ,one inch of slack belt goes on to the pulley ,b at o2 at or before the point p it feels the effect of increased tension and stretches to #a s inches4 ,it now travels from p to m and goes on to pulley ,a while stretched4 ,at or before reaching the point n1 as the tension decreases1 it contracts to one inch and so completes the cycle4 ,with a light load the belt creeps ahead of the pulley ,b at or near the point p4 ,if the load is heavy1 the creep works towards the point o and the belt may slip2 this also takes place when the belt tensions are too light even with small loads4 ,the point may be easily appreciated by imagining the belt to be of elastic rubber4 ,professor ,bird gives formulas for calculating the creep1 and tests made at the ,polytechnic to determine the modulus of elasticity4 ,he concludes that the answer to his opening question is that for the common leather belt running under ordinary conditions the creep should not exceed one per cent4 ,while this is sometimes called legitimate slip1 it is an actual loss of power and cannot be avoided by belt tighteners or patent pulley coverings4 ,the smooth or finished side should go next to the pulley because the actual area of contact is greater than when the rough side is in contact2 consequently1 the adhesion due to friction is greater4 ,moreover1 the smooth side has less tensile strength than the rough side1 so that any wear on that side will weaken the belt less than wear on the other side would4 ,,xiii ,,rope ,,drives#i ,,there seems to be considerable difference in opinion regarding the various ways of applying rope to the sheaves in rope driving1 viz41 multiple- or separate-rope system1 continuous-wrap or single-rope system with the rope from one of the grooves running on a traveling take-up device1 continuous-wrap or single-rope system with the take-up working directly on all the wraps4 #i ,contributed to ,power by ,r4 ,hoyt4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #he4 ,the multiple- or separate-rope system on a horizontal drive where the distance between centers is great enough so that the weight of the rope will give the required tension1 having the tight or pulling part on the lower side and the sheaves of the same diameter1 as in ,fig4 #he1 should be very satisfactory1 as old or worn ropes may be replaced by new ones of larger diameter1 or some of the ropes may be tighter than others and still not alter the efficiency of the drive4 ,it will be noticed in this case that a larger rope does not alter the proportional pitch diameters of the rope on the driving and driven sheaves2 but if one of the sheaves is larger than the other1 as in ,figs4 #hf and #hg1 and a new or larger rope is substituted for a worn or smaller one1 or if some of the ropes are a great deal tighter than others1 a differential action will be produced on the ropes owing to the fact that the larger or slack rope will not go as deeply into its grooves as the smaller or tight one4 ,consequently the proportionate pitch diameter on the rope on the driver and driven sheave will be changed4 ,the action will depend upon whether the large or the small sheave is the driver4 ,if the driver is the larger1 and of course assuming that the slack or large rope is weaker than the combined tight or smaller ones1 then it will have less strain on the pulling side2 but if the driver is smaller1 then the new or large rope will have greater strain on the pulling side4 ,whether the driver is larger or smaller1 a large or slack rope affects the action oppositely to a small or tight rope4 ,fig4 #hg shows how the action is reversed from ,fig4 #hf4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hf4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hg4 ,for clearness we will exaggerate the differences in diameter in the sketches and figure the speeds that the different size ropes would produce4 ,we will take ,a as normal1 ,b #a inch farther out of the groove1 producing a difference in diameter of #b inches2 ,c #a inch deeper in the groove1 producing a difference in diameter of #b inches4 ,in ,fig4 #he assume for the normal diameter of driver and driven #dj inches1 #db inches for ,b and #ch inches for ,c1 with a speed of #bjj revolutions per minute for the driver4 ,either ,a1 ,b or ,c will give #bjj revolutions per minute for the driven sheave1 omitting slippage1 of course4 ,in ,fig4 #hf say the normal diameter of the driver for rope ,a is #fj inches and of the driven #cj inches1 a speed of the driver of #bjj revolutions per minute will give the driven sheave a speed of #djj revolutions per minute2 ,b1 with the driver #fb inches and the driven sheave #cb inches diameter1 will give the latter a velocity of #chg-a_/b revolutions per minute4 ,with ,c the driver is #eh inches1 the driven #bh inches1 and the speed given the latter #dad-b_/g revolutions per minute4 ,in ,fig4 #hg1 the normal diameter of the driving sheave being #cj inches and the driven #fj inches1 a speed of the driver of #bjj revolutions per minute will give a speed of the driven member of #ajj revolutions per minute4 ,with ,b1 if the driver is #cb and the driven #fb inches1 the driven sheave will have a speed of #ajc-g_/ca revolutions per minute2 ,c1 with the driver #bh inches and the driven sheave #eh inches1 will give the latter a speed of #if-af_/bi revolutions per minute4 ,so it will be readily seen what effect a large or a small rope would have4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hh4 ,there are some who claim that slack ropes will transmit more power owing to more wrap on the sheaves1 while others claim that tight ropes are better4 ,if a drive with all the ropes slack gave trouble by the ropes slipping1 the first remedy tried would be tightening the ropes4 ,but if the conditions were like ,fig4 #hg1 it would not be particularly harmful to have some of the ropes longer than others2 in fact1 it might be well1 as the longer ropes would not make a complete circuit as quickly as the shorter ones2 consequently the position of the splices would be continually changing4 ,however1 it seems more natural to have about the same pull on all the ropes1 that is1 not have them as shown in ,fig4 #hh4 ,in conclusion for the system1 it should be noted that it has no means of tightening the ropes except by resplicing2 it is not as well adapted to various conditions as the other forms2 it is the cheapest form to install and in some cases should give excellent satisfaction4 ,with the continuous-wrap system having the rope from one of the grooves pass over a traveling take-up1 the latter has a tendency to produce an unequal strain in the rope4 ,in taking up1 or letting out1 the rope must either slide around the grooves1 or the strands having the greatest pull will wedge themselves deeper into the grooves1 producing a smaller pitch diameter than the ones having less pull1 making a differential action on the ropes4 ,it is therefore probable that it is the differential action that takes up or lets out the ropes1 the take-up merely acting in a sense as an automatic adjustable idler4 ,in tightening1 when the rope stretches or dries out1 or even in running normal1 the greatest pull will be near the take-up1 but if the drive is exposed to moisture1 and the rope shortens1 it will be farthest from the take-up1 depending proportionately on the number of grooves the take-up controls2 so in large drives it is best to have more than one take-up4 ,if one should use an unyieldable substance1 as1 for experiment1 a plain wire on two drums wrapped a number of times around and also over a take-up1 and the drums were moved together or apart1 he would find that the wire would have to slide around the drum2 but1 of course1 with a rope in a groove it is different4 ,the rope will yield some4 ,it will also go deeper into the groove4 ,this system costs more than the preceding form1 owing to extra expense for the traveling take-up1 but may be applied readily to different conditions and will be quite satisfactory in general1 if properly designed and installed4 ,the continuous-wrap system with a take-up or tightener acting directly on all the wraps has practically none of the objectionable features mentioned in the other two forms1 and is quick in action1 making it applicable where power is suddenly thrown on or off4 ,if the tightener is made automatic1 it may be controlled in numerous ways1 as with a weight or weight and lever or tackle blocks and weight1 etc4 ,it also may be fitted with a cylinder and piston1 with a valve to prevent too quick action if power is suddenly thrown off or on4 ,there is ordinarily practically no unequal strain on the rope4 ,this system may be applied to different conditions as readily as the preceding form4 ,its cost is more than that of either of the others1 as the tightener must have as many grooves as there are wraps4 ,it must also have a winder to return the last wrap to the first groove1 and to give its highest efficiency it must be properly designed and installed4 ,in either of the continuous-wrap systems1 if a portion of larger rope is used1 it will produce a greater strain directly behind the large rope1 owing to its traveling around the sheave quicker4 ,in angle work there is always extra wear on the rope in the side of the groove1 as only the center or one rope may be accurately lined2 so it is not advisable to crowd the centers in angular drives1 as the shorter the centers and wider the sheaves the greater the wearing angle4 ,it must be remembered that the foregoing applies to ordinary simple drives as shown in the sketches2 where the drive is complicated1 it may be necessary to make other allowances4 ,,xiv ,a ,,new ,,scheme ,,in ,,rope ,,transmission#aj ,,the use of manila rope for transmitting power is becoming so common as to attract no comment1 and it possesses so many advantages in its own field over any other method of conveying power that some objections really existing are overlooked4 ,when a rope drive is installed according to modern practice1 it is generally so successful and furnishes such an agreeable and smooth running drive that any possible objection is silenced by the many good qualities it evidently has4 ,but1 as a matter of fact1 the ,american continuous method of installing a rope drive has a few serious drawbacks4 #aj ,contributed to ,power by ,geo4 ,f4 ,willis4 ,were it possible to install a drive of say thirty ropes in such a manner that each one of the ropes had exactly the same strain on it that each other rope had1 and this under varying conditions of speed and load1 it is evident that the thirty ropes would work exactly as a belt of proper width to carry the load would1 that the ropes would be running with exactly the same tension clear across the width of the drive1 like the belt4 ,but according to the best authorities on rope transmission1 this ideal condition is impossible to obtain4 ,it is given as desirable1 by writers on rope transmission problems1 to use a take-up sheave for every twelve ropes1 while ten is considered even better4 ,the best results have been secured by using a take-up sheave for not more than eight ropes4 ,but in any case the evil of differential driving still exists4 ,in truth1 the only drive in which perfect conditions can exist1 according to present practice1 is one using but a single rope4 ,it is evident that when the load comes on the ropes1 the entire number of ropes in use are only able to ultimately reach the same tension from the elasticity of the ropes themselves1 as slipping in the grooves rarely occurs4 ,but there is a continued and uneven strain on the ropes until the load becomes divided between them1 and where ropes are used to drive a varying load1 this strain must and does reduce the life of the ropes materially4 ,many rope transmissions have been unsatisfactory because of this1 and when these drives have been so badly designed as to use one take-up sheave for more than ten ropes1 they are apt to be more expensive and troublesome than could have been anticipated4 ,one rope drive is known where thirty ropes are used1 with only one take-up sheave4 ,it has been a source of continual trouble and expense1 and has been replaced by the ,english system of multiple ropes4 ,the inherent troubles of this system have made the changed drive even worse than the original4 ,it will now be replaced by the system here illustrated4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hi4 ,in ,fig4 #hi is shown a plan view of the tighteners for a thirty-one rope drive4 ,as the ropes shown are #a-a_/b inches in diameter the main tightener sheave is shown #fj inches in diameter or forty times the diameter of the rope used4 ,mounted above the thirty-two groove sheave1 and in the same frame1 is a single groove sheave of the right diameter to reach the two outside ropes as shown1 in this case #hf inches in diameter4 ,further details are shown in the end elevation1 ,fig4 #ij1 and in the side elevation1 ,fig4 #ia4 ,allowing a working strain of say #bej pounds to each strand of the thirty-one ropes1 we have a total weight of #ae1ejj pounds which these two idler sheaves should weigh1 including the frame holding them4 ,these sheaves and the frame are mounted directly upon the ropes1 on the slack side of course1 and just as a tightener is mounted on a belt4 ,the first rope passes around the thirty-two-groove sheave1 on up over the single-groove sheave1 and back under the multiple-groove sheave again1 and is thus crossed over4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ij4 ,it is evident that a rope threaded on this drive would1 by the time it had run ten minutes or so1 have every strand in exactly the same tension every other strand was in1 and that the ropes would remain in this condition in spite of variation of load and speed1 as long as they lasted4 ,the initial expense1 including the erection1 would probably be no more than that for the necessary six or eight single-groove idlers1 with their shafts and boxes1 tracks1 etc41 which would be necessary according to established practice4 ,the room taken up would evidently be much less4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ia4 ,in ,fig4 #ib an assembled drive of this character is shown4 ,in ,fig4 #ic is shown a reverse drive1 common in sawmill practice1 where the two sheaves described would preferably be mounted on a car1 with the proper weight to give the desired tension4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ib4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ic4 ,in a recent design is shown a cylinder with about #f feet of piston travel1 provided with a reducing valve1 so that the steam pressure would remain constant at about #dj pounds4 ,the cylinder is bolted to the mill frame1 while the piston rod is connected to the car carrying the tightener sheaves4 ,the cylinder is of the proper area1 when furnished with steam at #dj pounds pressure1 to put the correct strain on the ropes4 ,a small steam trap is part of the equipment4 ,this should give a very elastic tension1 and so long as steam pressure was at #dj pounds or over1 the tension would remain constant4 ,with #f feet piston travel1 it is evident that #cgb feet of stretch could be taken out of the rope1 an amount entirely out of the question4 ,a dog1 or buffer1 can be so located as to prevent excessive back travel of the piston and car when steam pressure is taken off4 ,it is evident that this method can be applied to a drive using any number of ropes4 ,,xv ,,how ,,to ,,order ,,transmission ,,rope#aa ,,it is probable that more different and erroneous terms are used by purchasing agents and engineers when writing orders for transmission rope than are used to describe any other article needed about a mill4 ,a knowledge of how to order clearly just the kind of rope wanted would prevent delays and expense to many plants4 ,manufacturers of transmission rope constantly receive orders so peculiar in their wording that they dare not venture an immediate shipment1 but must first resort to the mails1 telegraph or telephone to find out what is really desired1 and1 of course1 these mistakes1 following the law of the general cussedness of things1 usually occur after a breakdown at the very time when every minute's delay means a considerable sum of money lost4 #aa ,contributed to ,power by ,f4 ,s4 ,greene4 ,there are in this country two manufacturers of cordage who make a specialty of transmission rope1 and the names under which their rope is sold are fairly well known to all users of rope drives4 ,in addition to these two concerns1 there are1 perhaps1 three or four other cordage mills which make this grade of rope to some extent4 ,from this comparatively small source many different brands have sprung which1 rechristened1 find their way to the market under a variety of names1 both poetic and classic4 ,these many names lead to frequent delays in ordering4 ,the man who does the splicing at the mill has1 at one time or another1 heard of a rope glorying in the possession of some fancy title4 ,it is more than probable that some salesman has told him most wonderful stories of what this particular rope can do2 consequently when the time comes for a new rope1 the splicer goes to the office and asks that so many feet of such and such a rope be ordered4 ,the purchasing agent makes out the order1 using this name1 and sends it to the manufacturer1 who in all probability has never heard of the rope and knows for a fact that it is not the brand under which any of his fellow manufacturers are selling rope4 ,before the order can be filled1 two or more letters or telegrams must be sent and received4 ,it frequently occurs that manufacturers receive orders specifying brands which never had existence at all1 so far as their knowledge goes4 ,one firm recently found in the same mail requests for ,fern1 ,juno1 and ,elephant transmission rope1 though no such brands have ever been on the market4 ,another familiar mistake is the ordering of a certain color yarn in the rope1 as if this decoration possessed some peculiar virtue4 ,these colored yarns are simply a question of dye1 and the rope in all probability would be better and stronger were they left out4 ,then again1 we find peculiar wording as to the lubrication of a rope4 ,some people insist that the rope shall be tallow inlaid2 others call for an absolutely dry rope or for a water-laid rope4 ,all transmission rope1 to be of any service whatsoever1 must be lubricated and such a thing as a dry transmission rope or a water-laid one1 whatever that term might mean1 would be of but small service to the user4 ,each manufacturer has his own method or formula for lubricating1 and if this be a plumbago or graphite-laid rope1 and he is asked for an old-fashioned tallow-laid rope1 he cannot fill orders directly from stock4 ,it is unnecessary to name the number of strands1 unless you wish a three- or six-strand rope1 for a four-strand transmission rope is always sent1 unless otherwise specified4 ,it is also unnecessary to say anything about the core1 as the rope is always supplied with one1 and generally it is lubricated4 ,frequently five-strand rope is ordered4 ,this is very confusing1 as there is such a thing as a five-strand rope1 but it is very rarely made4 ,ordering a five-strand rope is usually brought about through the error of considering the core as a fifth strand4 ,it is better1 though not necessary1 to order by the diameter instead of the circumference1 as transmission rope is made and usually sold upon diameter specification4 ,by far the most frequent specifications received call for long-fiber1 four-strand rope with core1 and having done this1 the purchaser considers he has named all necessary requirements4 ,at the present price of manila hemp1 which varies from #g cents per pound for the poorer grades to #ab-a_/b cents per pound for the best1 he may be quoted for such a rope1 with entire honesty1 anywhere from #aa to #ag cents per pound4 ,to procure long-fiber manila hemp1 and twist it into four strands about a core1 does not make a proper transmission rope4 ,as the rope will probably be required to run at a speed of from #cjjj to #ejjj feet per minute and be subjected to rapid and constant bending throughout its entire length1 the fiber should not only be long1 but the rope should be soft and pliable4 ,further than this1 as the fiber1 yarns and strands must slip one upon another during the bending1 the rope should be so lubricated as to reduce to a minimum the frictional wear from such slipping and rubbing1 which is a much larger factor than is generally supposed4 ,again1 the unusual strength of manila fiber is shown only when subjected to a longitudinal strain4 ,transversely1 owing to the cellular formation1 the fiber is relatively weak2 therefore1 in manufacturing transmission rope1 the greatest care is necessary to secure such proportion of twist in both yarns and strand as to render the rope least vulnerable to crosswise strain4 ,nor will the term long fiber insure the purchaser obtaining the proper material in his rope1 for the longest manila fiber1 contrary to general belief1 is not always the best from which to make a transmission rope4 ,some of the extremely long variety is coarse and brittle4 ,the best fiber for transmission rope is a particular grade of manila hemp known as ,zebu1 ,fig4 #id1 which is light in color1 silky to the touch and exceedingly strong and flexible4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #id4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ie4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #if4 ,the accompanying illustration1 ,fig4 #ie1 shows a close view of two grades of hemp1 that on the left being known in the trade as ,superior #b;ds1 while the fiber to the right of the cut is ,zebu4 ,fig4 #if shows a more distant view of the same two heads of hemp1 and the reader will see that in both the fiber is exceeding long1 and if anything1 that of the ,superior #b;ds is longer than in the ,zebu4 ,a transmission rope made from the latter1 however1 will cost the manufacturer from #c-a_/b to #d cents more per pound than if he had used ,superior #b;ds1 and will outlast two ropes made from the longer though coarser fiber4 ,the reader1 if he has perused this chapter to the present point1 is doubtless now asking himself3 ,how shall ,i word my order when ,i want a first-class driving rope8 ,the safest road to follow is to write to some manufacturer or firm whom you know to be reliable1 and ask for so many feet of their transmission rope1 giving the name1 if you are certain on that point1 and1 of course1 being sure to mention the diameter4 ,in case you do not know the name of his rope1 word your order as simply and briefly as possible2 for example3 ,one thousand feet #a-a_/b inches diameter first quality manila transmission rope1 and if the concern to which you write is a reputable one1 you will receive a four-strand rope1 made from ,zebu manila hemp1 put together with proper twist and lay for the service required4 ,,xvi ,a ,,belting ,,and ,,pulley ,,chart#ab ,,rule #a4 ,pulley ,speed4--,when the diameter of both pulleys and the speed of one is given1 to find the speed of the other3 ,place the points of spacing dividers upon the two given diameters in inches upon the scale 7,fig4 #ig72 then raise the dividers1 keeping the space obtained1 and place one point on the given speed and the other above it for speed of ,s1 or below it for speed of ,l 7,s and ,l meaning smaller and larger pulley1 respectively74 ,this point will fall upon the required speed4 #ab ,contributed to ,power by ,a4 ,g4 ,holman1 ,m4 ,e4 ,example3 ,if the two pulley diameters are #aj and #be inches and speed of larger pulley is #abj revolutions per minute1 what is speed of small pulley8 ,place the points of dividers on #aj and #be on scale ,a1 then lift the dividers and place one point on #abj and the other above it upon the scale2 the other point now rests on #cjj as the speed of ,s4 ,if the speed of ,s had been given1 one point would have been placed at #cjj and the other below it1 falling upon #abj1 the required speed of ,l4 ,note4--,in applying this rule1 if the speed comes beyond the range of scale ,a1 the result may be read by carrying the space to the revolution scale on scale ,b1 and proceeding in the same way4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ig4 ,example3 ,diameter of pulleys #ab and #cf inches and speed of ,l #ejj1 what is speed of ,s8 ,place points of dividers on #ab and #cf4 ,now1 if dividers are raised and one point placed on #ejj and the other above it on scale ,a1 it will come beyond the top of the scale4 ,hence go to scale ,b1 placing lower point on revolution scale at #ejj and the other point above1 which will fall upon #aejj1 the answer4 ,,rule #b4 ,pulley ,diameters4--,when the speed of both pulleys and the diameter of one is given1 to find diameter of the other3 ,place points of dividers on the two speeds on scale ,a or revolution scale ,b4 ,then place one point of dividers on given diameter and the other above it to find diameter of ,l1 or below it for diameter of ,s4 ,the figure thus indicated is the required diameter4 ,example3 ,speeds #ahj and #dej and diameter of smaller pulley #bj4 ,what must be diameter of ,l8 ,place points of dividers on #ahj and #dej on scale ,a4 ,then place one point on #bj 7the given diameter74 ,the other point falls at #ej1 the required diameter of ,l4 ,if the point falls between two graduations in any problem1 the result can be closely judged by the relative position4 ,the other and more labor-saving use for this chart is its application to belting problems4 ,it is generally conceded that there is no subject of more general interest in practical mechanics and none on which there is a greater difference of opinion than the proper allowance to be made in the selection of belt sizes for given requirements4 ,the general formula for the horse-power transmitted by belting is ,,hp ,,ws_/,c in which ,,hp horse-power1 ,w width of belt in inches1 ,s speed of belt in feet per minute1 and ,c constant4 ,the proper values of this constant1 or the feet per minute that each inch of width must run to transmit a horse-power1 under certain conditions1 is the point in question4 ,on the right-hand side of line ,a on the chart is a series of lines representing different values for this constant4 ,the lower one1 marked #d1 represents #djj feet belt speed per minute1 the next above is for #ejj1 and so on4 ,against some of these values are suggestions as to belts often recommended in connection with these constants4 ,for instance1 #b to #f ,s suggests the constant #aajj to be used for #b- to #f-;inch single leather belt1 #ajjj for #f-a_/b- to #aj-;inch single1 #fjj for #b- to #f-;inch double1 etc4 ,these suggestions practically agree with the advice of the ,geo4 ,v4 ,cresson ,company's catalog and the deductions of ,kent's ,handbook4 ,more power may be transmitted than these suggestions will allow1 by increasing the tension1 but this is accompanied by the disadvantage of requiring extra attention and undue pressure upon bearings4 ,the use of the chart for horse-power and width of belting is explained by the following rules3 ,,rule #c4 ,horse-power of ,belting4--,to find the horse-power that can be transmitted when diameter and speed of pulley and width of belt are given3 ,place one point of dividers on scale ,a at the width of belt in inches and the other point at the bottom of the line 7at #a74 ,next add this space to the hight representing diameter of pulley by placing lower point of dividers upon the given diameter and allowing the other point to rest upon the scale above4 ,then holding the upper point stationary1 open or close dividers until the other point falls upon the proper constant on the scale at right-hand side of line ,a4 ,now transfer this space last obtained to the scale ,b by raising the dividers1 carrying them square across to ,b and placing the point that was on the constant upon the given speed on the revolution scale4 ,note the location of the other point of dividers upon the horse-power scale1 which indicates the horse-power that can be transmitted under the given conditions4 ,example3 ,what horse-power can be transmitted by an #h-;inch double belt running on a #dj-;inch pulley at #ejj feet per minute8 ,place one point of dividers on line ,a at #h 7width of belt7 and the other point at bottom of line4 ,next raise dividers and place lower point on #dj 7diameter of pulley7 and let the other point fall above upon the scale4 ,then close dividers until lower point comes to the constant for #f-a_/b to #aj double4 ,carry this space to scale ,b with lower point on #ejj on revolution scale4 ,under point now falls upon #hd on horse-power scale1 which is the required horse-power4 ,,rule #d4 ,width of ,belting4--,to find the necessary width of belting when size and speed of pulley and the horse-power are given3 ,place one point of dividers on scale ,b upon the horse-power and the other point upon the revolutions4 ,next transfer this space to scale ,a by raising the dividers1 carrying them square across and placing the point that was on revolutions upon the constant4 ,then holding the other point stationary1 raise the point that was on the constant and open dividers until this point falls upon the given diameter4 ,now lift the dividers and carry the lower point down to bottom of line 7the point #a74 ,the upper point will now indicate the required width of belt4 ,note4--,if1 in finding width of belt1 there is doubt about the proper constant to take1 a medium value1 say #f1 may be assumed and a hasty cut and try will show in what classification the required belt will come4 ,example3 ,what width of belt for #ajj horse-power with #dj-;inch pulley at #ejj revolutions8 ,place point of dividers on scale ,b upon #ajj on horse-power scale and the other upon #ejj on the revolution scale4 ,then carry the space to scale ,a with lower point on constant #e4 ,then resting dividers upon upper point open them until lower point is at #dj 7diameter74 ,finally1 raise dividers and place lower point at bottom of line4 ,upper point is now at #i-a_/b1 indicating the nearest even width #aj as the answer4 ,a little practice will make one familiar with these rules1 and it will be seen that in the belting rules the four motions perform two multiplications and a division4 ,,xvii ,,splicing ,,rope ,,the splicing of a transmission rope is an important matter2 the points on which the success of the splice1 and incidentally the drive1 depend being the length of the splice1 which in turn depends upon the diameter of the rope and which is given in the table 7,fig4 #ig;a72 the diameter of the splice1 which should be the same as the diameter of the rope2 the securing of the ends of the strands of the splice1 which must be so fastened that they will not wear or whip out or cause the overlying strands to wear unduly2 and the workmanship of the splice1 which should be the best it is possible to secure4 ,when splicing an old and a new piece of rope1 the new piece should be thoroughly stretched1 for1 at best1 it is an exceedingly difficult task on account of the stretch and difference in diameter of the rope4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ig;a4 ,,data ,,relative ,,to ,,manila ,,transmission ,,rope ,,and ,,sheaves ,diameter ,square ,approximate,breaking ,maximum of ,rope of ,weight per ,strength1,allowable in ,diameter ,foot1 ,pounds ,tension1 ,inches ,pounds ,pounds ---------------------------------------- ----- #a_/b 4#be 4#ab #agej #ej #e_/h 4#bijf 4#af #bgcj #hj #c_/d 4#efbe 4#bj #ciej #aab #g_/h 4#gfef 4#bf #edjj #aec #a #a4 4#cd #gjjj #bjj #a-a_/h #a4bfef 4#dc #hijj #bec #a-a_/d #a4efbe 4#fc #aj1ijj #cab #a-a_/b #b4be 4#gg #ae1gjj #dej #a-c_/d #c4jfbe #a4jd #ba1djj #fab #b #d4 #a4cf #bh1jjj #hjj #b-a_/d #e4jfbe #a4gc #ce1djj #ajab #b-a_/b #f4be #b4ac #dc1gjj #abej ,,length ,,of ,,splice ,,in ,,feet ,smallest ,maximum ------------------,diameter ,number #c- #d- #f- of of ,strand,strand,strand,sheaves ,revolutions in per ,minute ,inches ------------------------------------- #f #bj #ajfj #f #bd #igj #f #h #bg #gfj #f #h #cb #fej #g #aj #ad #cf #egj #g #aj #af #dj #eaj #g #aj #af #de #dfj #h #ab #ah #ed #chj #h #ab #ah #fc #ccj #i #ad #bj #gb #bij #i #ad #bj #ha #bee #aj #af #bb #ij #bcj ,the illustrations and instructions for making standard rope splices are taken1 by the courtesy of the ,american ,manufacturing ,company1 from their ,blue ,book of ,rope ,transmission4 ,there are many different splices now in use1 but the one that experience has proved best is what is known as the ,english transmission splice4 ,in describing this we take for our example a four-strand rope1 #a-c_/d inches in diameter1 as spliced on sheaves in the multiple system4 ,the rope is first placed around sheaves1 and1 with a tackle1 stretched and hauled taut2 the ends should pass each other from six to seven feet1 the passing point being marked with twine on each rope4 ,the rope is then slipped from the sheaves and allowed to rest on shafts1 to give sufficient slack for making the splice4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ih4 ,unlay the strands in pairs as far back as the twines ,m1 ,m1 crotch the four pairs of strands thus opened 7,fig4 #ih71 cores having been drawn out together on the upper side4 ,then1 having removed marking twine ,m1 unlay the two strands #f and #h1 still in pairs1 back a distance of two feet1 to ,a2 the strands #a and #c1 also in pairs1 being carefully laid in their place4 ,next unlay the strands #e and #g in pairs1 to ,a1 replacing them as before with #b and #d4 ,the rope is now as shown in ,fig4 #ii4 ,the pair of strands #f and #h are now separated1 and #h unlaid four feet back to ,b1 a distance of six feet from center1 strand #f being left at ,a4 ,the pair of strands #a and #c having been separated1 #c is left at ,a1 as companion for #f1 strand #a being carefully laid in place of strand #h until they meet at point ,b4 ,the two pairs of strands #b-d and #e-g are now separated and laid in the same manner1 every care being taken1 while thus putting the rope together1 that original twist and lay of strand is maintained4 ,the protruding cores are now cut off so that the ends1 when pushed back in rope1 butt together4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ii4 ,the rope now appears as shown in ,fig4 #ajj1 and after the eight strands have been cut to convenient working lengths 7about two feet71 the companion strands are ready to be fastened together and tucked2 this operation is described for strands #b and #g1 the method being identical for the other three pairs4 ,unlay #b and #g for about twelve to fourteen inches1 divide each strand in half by removing its cover yarns 7see ,fig4 #aja71 whip with twine the ends of interior yarns #b and #g2 then1 leaving cover #b1 relay #b until near #g and #g1 here join with simple knot #b and #g1 ,fig4 #ajb4 ,divide cover yarns #g1 and pass #b through them1 continuing on through the rope under the two adjacent strands1 avoiding the core1 thus locking #b1 ,fig4 #ajc4 ,in no event pass #b over these or any other strands4 ,half-strand #g must now be taken care of2 at the right of the knot made with #b and #g1 #b is slightly raised with a marlin spike1 and #g passed or tucked around it two or three times1 these two half-strands forming in this way a whole strand4 ,half-strand #g is tucked until cover #b is reached1 whose yarns are divided and #g passed through them and drawn under the two adjacent strands1 forming again the lock4 ,the strand ends at both locks are now cut off1 leaving about two inches1 so that the yarns may draw slightly without unlocking4 ,this completes the joining of one pair of strands1 ,fig4 #ajd4 ,the three remaining pairs of strands are joined in the same manner4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aja4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajd4 ,after the rope has been in service a few days1 the projecting ends at locks wear away1 and if tucks have been carefully made1 and the original twist of yarns preserved1 the diameter of the rope will not be increased1 nor can the splice be located when the rope is in motion4 ,,xviii ,,wire ,,rope ,,transmission#ac ,,wire ropes are extensively and successfully used in the horizontal and inclined transmission of great power of unlimited amount1 the advantages over hemp rope belting being3 driving at very long distances1 comparatively small loss through slipping and the possibility of driving in the open air4 #ac ,contributed to ,power by ,c4 ,boysen1 ,m4 ,e4 ,vertical transmission of power1 on account of the weight of the rope1 is excluded4 ,formerly the material used in the manufacture of the wires was best charcoal iron1 but now almost exclusively tough crucible-steel wires are used1 as steel wire ropes are stronger1 do not stretch as much1 and last longer than iron ropes4 ,the wire ropes consist of six strands of from six to twenty wires each1 and the strands to form the rope are woven in the opposite direction to the wires in the strand4 ,in the center of each strand and in the center of the rope a cotton core is placed4 ,these cores are of the greatest importance1 for by reducing the friction of the wires against each other1 they serve to increase the lifetime of the rope1 which1 according to the strain on the rope and the size of the smallest pulley1 is from one to three years4 ,to prevent rusting1 the wire ropes receive a coat of boiled linseed oil1 or a hot mixture consisting of three parts of drip oil and one part of resin is applied4 ,this latter mixture at the same time improves the adhesion between the rope and the lining placed in the bottom of the pulleys1 thus reducing the loss caused by slipping of the rope4 ,wire ropes used for the transmission of power should never be galvanized4 ,the ends of the rope are spliced together1 from #aj to #bj feet being necessary for a good splice2 great care should be taken that the splice is made by experienced men1 and that the rope is made long enough4 ,a rope stretches constantly from the time when placed on the pulleys1 the more so when placed on the pulleys tightly4 ,therefore it has to be made long enough to transmit power without undue tension1 and for this reason the distance between the two pulleys has to be long enough and the working strain per square inch of section low enough to allow sufficient deflection in the rope4 ,as a guidance to the amount of deflection necessary1 be it said that even in a short drive the deflection of the rope1 when not running1 should not be less than #b feet2 and for a distance of #djj feet between pulley centers1 the deflection of the rope when running should be #e feet in the driving rope and #aj feet in the driven rope4 ,either the top or the bottom rope may be the driving one1 the former being preferable2 but the ropes should never be crossed4 ,power can be transmitted to a distance of #fjjj feet and more without great loss2 but as two pulleys should on no account be more than #ejj feet apart1 intermediate stations are placed along the road4 ,precautions should be taken against the possibility of the rope swaying4 ,this may be caused either by the influence of the wind1 by a bad splice1 by the rope wearing too much1 by the pulleys not being balanced well or by the pulleys not being in the same plane4 ,it is of importance that the pulleys be exactly in line1 and careful attention should be given to the construction and placing of the bearings4 ,although the bearings are not strained excessively1 the steps are usually made long and movable4 ,the connection between the shaft and the pulley is best made by means of tangential keys4 ,some engineers1 when two ropes are found necessary for the transmission of the power in question1 use pulleys containing two grooves each1 and make the same kind of pulleys for the intermediate stations of long-distance driving2 whereas others advise a separate pulley for each rope1 both being connected with each other by a clutch4 ,the diameter of the smallest pulley has to be large enough in comparison with the diameter of the rope or the thickness of the single wires used to easily overcome the stiffness in the rope4 ,the larger the pulleys1 the longer the rope will last4 ,the rim of the pulley is ,v-shaped1 and the bottom of the groove is dovetailed to receive a lining of wood1 rubber or leather1 on which the rope rests4 ,the lining increases the friction and reduces the loss caused by slipping of the rope4 ,leather is the best lining and lasts about three years4 ,either old belt leather1 well saturated with oil1 or new leather1 boiled in fish oil1 can be taken4 ,it is cut in pieces of the same size as the dovetailed part of the groove1 and then placed on and pressed together in the latter4 ,the pressing is done by means of a piece of wood4 ,the last remaining small space in the groove is filled with soft rubber4 ,if the lining has to consist of rubber1 this is softened and hammered into the groove4 ,for wood lining1 thin blocks of the required size are placed into the groove through a hole provided in the bottom of the rim4 ,this slot is closed by a plate and fastened to the bottom of the rim by means of screws after all blocks have been inserted4 ,the lining has to be turned absolutely true1 for which reason the filling is done while the pulley is still in the lathe4 ,pulleys up to #c feet in diameter are built with cast-iron arms2 whereas larger pulleys have wrought-iron arms made of round iron1 cast in the rim and boss4 ,pulleys under #h feet #f inches in diameter are made in one piece1 if for other reasons it is not necessary to have them in halves4 ,guide pulleys are used for long ropes1 especially if there is not sufficient hight above the ground4 ,the guide pulleys are of the same construction as the main pulleys1 and for the driving rope they are also made of the same diameter4 ,the diameter of the guide pulleys for the driven rope can be made from #bj to #be per cent4 smaller4 ,the breaking strength of unannealed wires per square inch of section and according to thickness and quality is3 ,for iron wires from #gj1jjj to #aaj1jjj pounds1 and for steel wires from #aaj1jjj to #acj1jjj pounds4 ,for thinner wires a higher value is taken than for thick ones4 ,the diameter of the wires used for making ropes for transmitting power is from #j4jb to #j4a inch1 and on account of the stiffness1 no wires above the latter size should be used4 ,a rope consisting of a greater number of thin wires1 besides being stronger is more pliable and lasts longer than a rope of the same area consisting of a less number of thicker wires4 ,,index ,a ,american ,mfg4 ,co41 #acf ,b ,bauer1 ,chas4 ,a41 #ed ,beams to carry stringers1 finding1 #db ,bearings1 locating1 #c ,belt1 building1 #id ,belt creep1 #ajf dressing1 #ia1 #ajj comparative test1 #ajb running off1 #aja shifter device upon column1 #i sizes1 #acb ,belt1 leather1 selection1 #hi marking spliced part1 #ab new1 putting on1 #ai1 #bj slack1 #ajj splicing on the pulleys1 #ha throwing on1 #ab tight1 #ajj wire-lacing1 #ab ,belt-clamps1 use1 #ai ,belting and pulley chart1 #abi ,belting1 cleaning1 #ig horse-power transmitted1 #acb1 #acc use and abuse1 #ii width1 #acb ,belts1 cleaning1 #hh keeping clean1 #id leather1 care and management1 #hi splicing1 #gb main line1 #e taking-up1 #aa ,bird1 ,prof4 ,wm4 ,w41 #ajf1 #ajg ,blue ,book of ,rope ,transmission1 #acf ,board for use in lining countershaft1 #ce1 #cf ,boiled linseed oil in wire rope1 #add ,bolt and nut for moving pulleys1 #fb for hanger1 size1 #dj ,bolt1 preventing turning1 #aa1 #ba ,boysen1 ,c41 ,m4 ,e41 #adc ,brands1 effect on leather1 #ij ,breaking strain on shaft1 #bh strength of unannealed wires1 #adf ,bunsen burner1 use in moving pulley1 #fb ,bushing1 split1 #b ,c ,center drive for heavily loaded shaft1 #g stock1 #ij ,chart1 belting and pulley1 #abi ,cleaning belting1 #ig ,clutch1 rim-friction1 arrangement1 #e ,clutches1 coupling1 #ca tightening while shafting is in motion1 #g ,collars1 split wood1 #c ,compass saw1 use in locating beams1 #de ,contact1 extra1 securing1 #ag ,continuous-wrap system of rope drive1 #aab -wrap system with direct-acting tightener1 #aac ,core1 cotton1 of wire rope1 #adc rope1 #abd ,countershaft1 lining1 #cb1 #cc1 #ce1 #cf1 #cg ,couplings1 flanged bolt1 #c ,cresson ,co41 ,geo4 ,v41 catalog1 #acb ,d ,deflection of rope1 #add ,diameter of splice1 #acf rope1 #abd1 #ace of wires for transmission rope1 #adg ,diameters1 pulley1 #aca ,differential action on ropes1 #aji1 #aab1 #aaf ,disks for plumb-bob1 #di ,distance of power transmission by wire rope1 #add ,dixon1 ,walter ,e41 ,m4 ,e4 #gb11 #hi ,dressing1 waterproof1 for belts1 #ia ,driving an overhead floor1 #f ,e ,elbow bolts1 #df ,emery cloth for packing1 #bc1 #bd ,end drive compared with center drive1 #g ,english transmission splice1 #acf ,evans1 ,william1 #ajb ,f ,farmer1 ,t41 ,jr41 #ajb ,fastening strands of splice1 #acf ,fiber1 rope1 #abd ,filled belts1 #ia ,flanged bolt couplings1 #c ,g ,gasoline blow torch1 use in getting oil out of belt1 #hh ,gluing a joint1 #he ,greene1 ,f4 ,s41 #abb ,guide pulleys1 #adf ,h ,hanger adjustment1 securing1 #dj1 #da bearing1 repairing worn end1 #ad positions1 marks1 #c ,hanger1 removing to take off pulley1 #fc sliding out of wall box1 #a ,hangers1 crosswise of shaft1 #db ,hangers not allowing vertical adjustment1 #c ,heads of hemp1 #abg ,hemp1 #abe1 #abg ,herrman1 ,chas41 #a1 #ba1 #cb ,holman1 ,a4 ,g41 ,m4 ,e41 #abi ,hook bolts1 #df ,horse-power transmitted by belting1 #acb1 #acc ,hoyt1 ,r41 #ajh ,j ,joints in leather belt1 #ie ,journaled end of shaft1 proper length1 #a ,k ,kavanagh1 ,wm41 #fa ,kent's ,handbook1 #acb ,kinks1 practical1 #fa ,l ,lag screws1 boring for1 #df ,laps of leather belt1 length1 #ij of leather belt1 thickness1 #id ,leather belts1 care and management1 #hi selection1 #hi ,leather-cutting tool1 #ge ,leather1 length for belt1 #ij1 #ie ,length of splice1 #ace ,leveling shafting1 #ed1 #eh ,line1 leveling1 #eb setting1 #ea ,lining a countershaft1 #cb1 #cc1 #ce1 #cf1 #cg of pulley1 wire rope transmission1 #ade shafting1 #cj1 #ed ,loosening pulley that has seized1 #bf ,lubrication of rope1 #abc ,m ,mc,barnes1 ,wm4 ,h41 #ii ,main shaft belted to engine and to countershaft1 #h ,marks on ends of shafts1 #b to show hanger positions1 #c ,mounting dynamos and motors1 #ah ,mule belt1 #ac ,multiple-rope system1 #ajh ,n ,neatsfoot oil as belt dressing1 #ajc ,o ,oil1 boiled linseed1 on wire rope1 #add effect on belt1 #ib getting out of belt1 #hg ,p ,packing to secure good clamping fit1 #bc1 #bd ,plank to use in sliding hanger out of wall box1 #a ,plumb-bob1 #di1 #eh -bob method of lining countershaft1 #ch ,point slipping1 #ib ,power transmission by wire ropes1 distance1 #add ,practical kinks1 #fa ,pulley and belting chart1 #abi diameters1 #aca1 #ade lining1 wire rope transmission1 #ade shafts holding arrangement and adjusting contrivance1 #ac speed1 #abi ,pulley1 cast-iron1 moving1 #fb driving1 location1 #e loose1 #fa seized1 loosening1 #be1 #bf ,pulleys for wire rope transmission1 #ade1 #adg ,pulleys1 guide1 #adf loosening1 #fe1 #fg1 #gj moving1 #fb removing1 #fe1 #fg1 #gj solid1 #d split1 #e ,r ,rope1 core1 #abd diameter1 #abd1 #ace differential action1 #aji1 #aab1 #aaf drives1 #ajh fibers1 #abd lubrication1 #abc splicing1 #ace strands1 #abd transmission1 #ace new scheme1 #aae ordering1 #abb ,ropes1 slack1 #aaa tight1 #aaa ,rusting of wire rope1 preventing1 #add ,s ,scrapers for removing glue1 #gd1 #ge ,scrapers1 turning edge1 #gf1 #gg ,seizing of pulley1 #be ,separate-rope system1 #ajh ,set-screws1 use1 #bc ,shaft1 breaking strain1 #bh causes of breaking1 #af preventing turning1 #ae1 #af repairing break1 #ag journaled off to act as collar1 #b length of journaled part of end1 #a ,shaft line1 space between end and wall1 #c ,shafting1 apparatus for leveling and lining1 #ed hints1 #a1 #ba1 #cb leveling1 #eh line1 turning up1 #di lining1 #cj testing alinement and level1 #bi ,shafts of light-working counters1 marring1 #aj ,sheaves1 #ace ,sheet iron for packing1 #bd ,sizes of belts1 #acb of rope1 effect1 #aaj ,slack ropes1 #aaa ,slip of belt1 legitimate1 #ajg ,space between end of shaft line and wall1 #c ,speed1 pulley1 #abi ,splice1 diameter1 #acf ,english transmission1 #acf fastening strands1 #acf length1 #ace ,splice opener for heavy belts1 #gb ,splice1 wire rope1 #add workmanship1 #acf ,spliced part of belt1 marking1 #ab ,splicing belt on the pulleys1 #ha board1 #gh1 #gi leather belts1 #gb rope1 #ace ,split bushing1 #b ,split-pulley1 tightening1 #bc ,split wood collars1 #c ,steel for sharpening scraper1 #gf ,stillson wrench1 use1 #bb ,strands of rope1 #abd ,stretchers1 position1 #di ,stringers1 locating beams to carry1 #db ,stringers of drop hangers1 thickness1 #ch ,superior #b;ds hemp1 #abg ,swaying of rope1 preventing1 #ade ,t ,take-up for rope drive1 #aab -up sheave for rope drive1 #aaf ,testing alinement and level of shafting1 #bi ,tight ropes1 #aaa ,tightener1 automatic1 for rope drive1 #aac ,tightener for #ca-rope drive1 #aag system1 dangerous1 #f ,tightening ropes1 #aab ,timbers of boarded-over ceiling1 locating1 #db1 #de ,tin for packing1 #bd ,tool for leveling shafting1 #eh ,tools for splicing leather belts1 #gb ,transmission rope1 #ace rope1 ordering1 #abb ,transmission1 wire rope1 #adc rope1 deflection of rope1 #add ,traveling take-up for rope drive1 #aab ,tucking strands1 #aci ,turning edge of scrapers1 #gf1 #gg up line shafting1 #di ,v ,v-shaped rails1 for mounting dynamos and motors1 #ah ,vertical adjustment for hangers1 #c ,w ,water1 effect on belt1 #ib ,width of belting1 #acb1 #acc ,willis1 ,geo4 ,f41 #aae ,wire diameter1 for transmission rope1 #adg ,wire-lacing a belt1 #ab ,wire rope1 splice1 #add transmission1 #adc ,wrench1 proper way to use1 #bb ,z ,zebu manila hemp1 #abe1 #abg ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,obvious typos were silently corrected4 ,archaic and variable spelling has been preserved4 ,variations in hyphenation and compound words have been preserved4 ,italics are shown thus3 sloping4 ,bold type is shown thus3 shout4 ,small capitals have been capitalised4 ,punctuation has been preserved as it appears in the original publication4 ,due to space constraints the table on p#ace has been split4 ,subscript shown by underscore 1 superscript by 4