,transcrib]'s ,notes ,a few words 9 relation to era_/dialect h be5 reta9$ e4g4 ?o1 posse/1 /opt1 dropt1 slipt1 di/re/4 ,! frontispiece spell+ ( ! ,que5 ( ,belgium is ,elisabe?1 z %[n 9 ! photo ) h] signature4 ,?r\gh\t ! ma9 text h[ev]1 x has be5 spelt ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,^! spell+s h be5 left z pr9t$4 ,9 ! ,app5dix1 :]e !re are two or m illu/rations p] page1 ! words 7,top71 7,middle71 7,bottom7 h be5 us$1 to indicate ! l9k ) ! text & illu/ration4 p4#bib3 *ang$ #d to d ,pr9t] errors h sil5tly be5 correct$4 ,,bobb9s ,,( ,,belgium ,illu/ration3 ,h4,m4 ,,que5 ,,elisabe? ,,( ,,belgium ,,bobb9s ,,( ,,belgium ,a ,,book ,,( ,,belgian ,,lace1 ,,lace-,,work]s1 ,,lace-,,s*ools ,,& ,,lace-,,villages ,,by ,,*>lotte ,,kellogg ,( ! ,commission = ,relief 9 ,belgium1 & ,au?or ( 8,wom5 ( ,belgium0 ,,funk ,,wagnalls ,,company ,,new ,,york ,,& ,,london #aibj ,,copyright1 #aibj1 ,,by ,,funk ,,wagnalls ,,company ,pr9t$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates ( ,am]ica ,publi%$ 9 ,febru>y1 #aibj ,copyright ,"u ! ,articles ( ! ,copyright ,conv5tion ( ! ,pan-,am]ican ,republics & ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 ,augu/ #aa1 #aiaj4 ,,d$ication ,to ! wom5 ( ! ,brussels w>-"t lace committee--,madame ,all>d1 ! ,vicomtesse de ,beughem1 ,madame ,kef]-,mali1 & ! ,comtesse ,elizabe? d',oultremont1 ) admiration & gratitude4 ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,,page ,preface #ae ,introduction #be ,i4 ,turnh\t #di ,,ii4 ,c\rtrai #gi ,,iii4 ,?\r\t-,?ielt-,wyngh5e #ig ,,iv4 ,grammont #abg ,v4 ,bruges #adc ,,vi4 ,k]xk5 #afi ,,vii4 ,erembodeghem #ahi ,,viii4 ,opbrakel #bja ,,ix4 ,li$ek]ke #bae ,x4 ,h]zele #bca ,,xi4 ,gh5t #bdg ,,xii4 ,zele #bfe ,,xiii4 ,app5dix #bge ,index #cjg ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations ,,fac+ ,,page ,h4,m4 ,,que5 ,,elizabe? ,,( ,,belgium1 ,frontispiece ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury ,,portrait #cb ,%[+ heavy brocade z yet unreliev$ by l95 or lace trimm+4 ,,portrait ,,( ,,*>les ,,ix 7#aegj7 #cc ,l95 coll> %[+ picot edge made ) ! ne$le4 ,,portrait ,,t[>ds ,,end ,,( ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury #dj ,%[+ coll> ornam5t$ ) bobb9-made cluny4 ,,anne ,,( ,,au/ria ,,by ,,van ,,dyck #da ,ab\t #afce1 cluny lace made ) bobb9s4 ,,abb ,,b]raly ,,s*ool1 ,,turnh\t #ef ,g5]al view4 ,,n9e-,,ye> ,,*ildr5 ,,mak+ ,,po9t ,,de ,,p>is #eg ,,po9t ,,de ,,p>is ,,class #fd ,on d>k days lamps are light$ beh9d bottles fill$ ) wat]1 ! rays pass+ ?r\gh1 fall 9 spotlights on ! cu%ions4 ,,w9d+ ,,bobb9s ,,= ,,! ,,*ildr5 #fe ,,po9t ,,de ,,lille1 ,,or ,,po9t ,d',,holl&e #gb ,me% %[+ 8,esprits0 or dots *>act]i/ic ( ?is bobb9 lace4 ,,end ,,( ,a ,,po9t ,,de ,,p>is ,,sc>f ,,ab\t #b ,,y>ds ,,long ,,on ,,:i* ,,colette ,,work$ ,,"o ,,ye> #gc ,,9 ,,! ,,abb ,,b]raly ,,s*ool1 ,,colette1 #af-,,ye>s ,,old1 ,,works ,,) #a1jjj ,,bobb9s #gc ,,belgian ,,lace ,,me%es 7,plate ,i7 #hj ,aft] ,pi]re ,v]hag5 9 8,la ,d5telle ,belge40 ,,belgian ,,lace ,,me%es 7,plate ,,ii7 #ha ,aft] ,pi]re ,v]hag5 9 8,la ,d5telle ,belge40 ,,bobb9 ,,laces #hh ,mal9es1 ,po9t de ,p>is1 ,val5ci5nes4 ,,cu%ion ,,cov] ,,repres5t+ ,,belgium',s ,,gratitude ,,to ,,am]ica ,,= ,,bread #hi ,po9t de ,p>is lace comb9$ ) l954 ,! l[] "r-h& c5t]piece %[s ! rose design1 emblem ( ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,,bobb9 ,,laces #ajd ,tor*on1 ,cluny1 ,old ,flemi%1 ,b9*e4 ,,table ,,clo? ,,%[+ ,,arms ,,( ,,! ,,allies #aje ,cut l95 ) squ>es ( ,v5ise surr\nd$ by filet & cluny2 ,v5ise made ) ! ne$le2 cluny ) bobb9s4 ,a 8,,m>ie ,,anto9ette0 ,,9 ,,*antilly ,,lace #abh ,made ) bobb9s1 ne> ,grammont4 ,,cu%ion ,,cov] #abi ,c5t] ,v5ise1 bord]s ,val5ci5nes1 lace execut$ by #ab work]s 9 "o mon?1 embroid]y & m\nt+ by f\r wom5 9 two mon?s2 design by ,m4 de ,rudd]4 ,,tea ,,clo? #abi ,po9t de ,p>is1 cock design4 ,,lace ,,mak]s ,,( ,,bruges #add ,,bruges ,,& ,,simil> ,,bobb9 ,,laces #ade ,,lace ,,normal ,,s*ool1 ,,bruges4 ,,beg9n]',s ,,class #aeb ,symbolic color patt]n on left-h& easel2 demon/ration bobb9s atta*$ to color$ ?reads at "r4 ,,b$ ,,cov] ,,9 ,,du*esse ,,or ,,brussels ,,lace #aec ,made ) bobb9s2 execut$ 9 ,fl&]s by #cj wom5 9 ?ree mon?s2 design by ! ,lace ,committee4 ,,rosal9e1 ,,:i* ,,closely ,,resembles ,,bruges #afj ,,details ,,= ,,bruges ,,lace #afj ,made ) bobb9s on r\nd cu%ion4 ,,doily ,,set ,,9 ,,po9t ,,de ,,p>is ,,9 ,,! 8,,animals ,,( ,,! ,,allies0 ,,design1 ,,execut$ ,,at ,,turnh\t #afa ,,po9t ,,de ,,fl&res ,,or ,,fl&]s ,,lace #agf ,fl[]s made ) bobb9s1 me% ) ne$le2 designs by ! ,lace ,committee4 ,,h&k]*ief ,,9 ,,ne$le-,,po9t #agg ,made ne> ,alo/4 ,bo? me% & fl[]s made ) ne$le4 ,,detail ,,%[+ ,,sev5 ,,diff]5t ,,fill+-,,9 ,,/it*es #agg ,,v5ise ,,designs ,,by ,,! ,,brussels ,,lace ,,committee #ahj ,,h&k]*ief ,,& ,,jewel ,,boxes2 ,,fl&]s ,,& ,,v5ise ,,ov] ,,sat9 ,,& ,,velvet #aha ,,v5ise ,,banquet ,,clo? ,,pres5t$ ,,by ,,! ,,lace ,,committee ,,to ,h4,m4 ,,que5 ,,elizabe? ,,on ,,h] ,,return ,,f ,,exile #aib-aic ,design by ,m4 de ,rudd]2 execut$ by #cj be/ ,v5ise-mak]s 9 ,belgium 9 six mon?s4 ,,cu%ion ,,cov] ,,9 ,,v5ise #aif ,pek9ese dog2 design by ,m4 ,all>d4 ,,table ,,c5t] ,,9 ,,fl&]s ,,) ,,c5t] ,,& ,,bord] ,,( ,,v5ise #aig ,design by ,lace ,committee2 execut$ 9 ,we/ ,fl&]s by five work]s 9 #ae days4 8,,! ,,t\rney0 ,,banquet ,,clo? #bjh ,design reproduc+ a m$ival pa9t+ 9 ,t\rnai1 execut$ 9 ,v5ise lace by #aj work]s 9 "o mon?1 m\nt+ & embroid]y by five work]s 9 "o mon?4 ,price 9 ,brussels1 #a1jjj francs4 8,,arms ,,( ,,allies0 ,,cu%ion ,,cov] ,,9 ,,v5ise1 ,,) ,,details ,,9 ,,fl&]s #bji ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,sc>f ,,express+ ,,gratitude ,,( ,,belgium ,,to ,,holl&4 ,,pres5t$ ,,to ,h4,m4 ,,que5 ,,wilhelm9a #baf-bag ,execut$ by #cj work]s 9 eight mon?s4 ,,bobb9 ,,laces #bbd ,mal9es2 ,application1 fl[]s sewn on tulle2 ,du*esse1 ) ,ne$le-,po9t ins]tion4 ,,application ,,details ,,to ,,be ,,sew$ ,,on ,,tulle #bbe ,upp] fl[] %[s op5 spaces left by bobb9 work] = ne$le work]2 l[] fl[] %[s bo? bobb9 & ne$le "w complet$4 ,,w$d+ ,,gift ,,( ,,mr4 ,,hoov] ,,to ,,mrs4 ,,page #bdj ,execut$ 9 ,v5ise & ,fl&]s lace by #cj wom5 work+ ?ree mon?s4 ,am]ican eagles ) outspread w+s1 protect+ ! ,belgian ,lion en*a9$ 9 ! f\r corn]s4 ,,fl&]s--,,ne$le ,,me%1 ,,bobb9 ,,fl[]s #bdj ,,v5ise ,,lace ,,c5t]1 ,,bord] ,,( ,,val5ci5nes #bda ,lace execut$ 9 ,fl&]s by #dj wom5 9 two mon?s2 embroid]y & m\nt+ 9 ,brussels by f\r wom5 9 ?ree mon?s4 ,,val5ci5nes1 ,,squ>e ,,me% #bda ,,fan ,,9 ,,ne$le-,,po9t #bef ,execut$ by ?ree wom5 9 six weeks4 8,%ields ( ! ,allies10 design drawn by ,m4 ,kn(f = ! ,lace ,committee4 ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury ,,m>riage ,,veil ,,9 ,,ne$le-,,po9t1 ,,belong+ ,,to ,,! ,,comtesse ,,elizabe? ,d',,oultremont #beg ,x w\ld take #dj work]s ab\t a half ye> to copy ?is veil4 ,,at ,,"w ,,on ,,details ,,( ,a ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,sc>f ,,to ,,be ,,pres5t$ ,,to ,,que5 ,,elizabe? #bfh ,,ne$le ,,lace ,,class-,,room ,,9 ,,! ,,trade ,,union ,,lace ,,s*ool ,,at ,,zele #bfh ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,illu/ration ,,= ,,! ,,fable ,,( ,,! ,,fox ,,& ,,! ,,grapes #bfi ,,9 ,,! ,,zele ,,lace ,,s*ool4 ,,jo9+ ,,details ,,( ,,! ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,sc>f ,,pres5t$ ,,to ,,que5 ,,elizabe? #bfi ,,preface ,i ent]$ ! lace-_w by ! grim door ( w>4 ,= x 0 ! w>-"t "w ( ! wom5 ( ! ,brussels ,lace ,committee t op5$ ! way to me4 ,long be=e ! w>1 ,que5 ,elizabe? 9 ,belgium1 l ,que5 ,m>gh>ita 9 ,italy1 _h s\ght means to protect ! lace work]1 ?r\gh c5turies ! victim ( an economic inju/ice1 n to say crime1 & to rescue & develop an indu/ry ?reat5$ f _m sides4 ,9 #aiaa %e gave h] royal enc\ragem5t to a gr\p ( prom95t ,belgian wom5 :o organiz$ z 8,amies de la ,d5telle10 ,fri5ds ( ,lace1 & began a lace-sav+ campaign by try+ to rem$y ! deplorable condition ( mo/ ( ! lace s*ools1 ! defective tea*+1 long h\rs1 & pitiful pay4 ,!y c\ld insi/ 9 ! s*ools1 z !y c\ld n else:]e1 on ! "r to inspect1 to grant or refuse patronage4 ,!y subsidiz$ wor?y in/itutions1 & advocat$ ! e/abli%m5t ( a lace normal s*ool & ( a special s*ool ( design4 ,education !y felt to be ! ma9 road lead+ out ( ! prevail+ mis]y1 & !y 7 mak+ progress along ?is road1 :5 sudd5ly ! ,invad] p\r$ ov] _! bord]s4 ,:ile o!r wom5 hurri$ to op5 refuges & hospitals & s\p-kit*5s1 a few ( ! ,fri5ds ( ,lace rememb]$ fir/ ! lace-mak]s2 & by ,novemb] #aiad1 _h effect$ a w> em]g5cy organization1 kn[n z ! ,brussels ,lace ,committee1 ) ,mrs4 ,:itlock z honor>y presid5t4 ,un=tunately mo/ ( ! lace deal]s fail$ to coop]ate ) !m1 b !y won ! approval ( ! p[]ful ,belgian ,comit ,national1 :i*1 ) ! ,commission = ,relief 9 ,belgium1 c>ri$ on ! relief ( ! occupi$ t]ritory ?r\gh\t ! w>4 ,& ) an initial gift ( #be1jjj f ,am]ica to be conv]t$ into lace1 !y 7 able to />t _! "w4 ,x soon came to be direct$ altoge!r by f\r wom52 ,! ,comtesse ,elizabe? d',oultremont1 ,lady-9-,wait+ to ,que5 ,elizabe?2 ! ,vicomtesse de ,beughem1 an ,am]ican2 ,madame ,josse ,all>d1 & ,madame ,kef]-,mali4 ,at ! same "t ! aid & protection ( work]s on filets & o!r commonly call$ 8imitation0 laces1 0 assign$ by ! ,comit ,national to ano!r gr\p ( wom51 ! 8,union ,patriotique des ,femmes ,belges40 ,! ,brussels ,lace ,committee employ$1 z tru/$ bus9ess director ( _! (fices1 ,m4 ,coll>t1 g5]\sly releas$ to !m by ! ,all>d ,bank1 & z te*nical exp]t1 ,madame ,%>laeck51 be=e ! w> ) ! ,compagnie des ,indes1 "o ( ! l>ge/ lace h\ses 9 ,belgium2 & z ! "w develop$1 an increas+ numb] ( design]s & aides necess>y to a lace bus9ess 7 add$4 ,dur+ ! fir/ few mon?s ! situation seem$ utt]ly hopeless2 ?read 0 impossible to obta92 & ev5 if ! ?read 7 =?com+1 no "o c\ld say :o w\ld buy ! laces !y might enc\rage ! wom5 to make2 ! ,g]mans 7 cutt+ (f successive sections ( ! lace-mak+ areas :]e !y _h e/abli%$ sub-committees1 & 7 =bidd+ communication ) !m4 ,& yet ^! f\r wom5 cont9u$ bravely to create ! f\ndations ( a great lace bus9ess--= an extraord9>y comm]cial organization grew f _! ef=ts4 ,h[ev]1 despite all _! intellig5ce & devotion1 su* a result w\ld h be5 impossible b = a h>d-won diplomatic victory4 ,9 e>ly #aiae ,mr4 ,hoov] =c$ an int]national agreem5t :i* p]mitt$ ! ,c4 ,r4 ,b4 to br+ ?read = ! ,lace ,committee into ,belgium1 & to take out an equival5t weight 9 lace1 to be sold 9 ! ,alli$ c\ntries = ! b5efit ( ! work]s4 ,engl& requir$ a rigid control ( ! ?read1 & t x be giv5 only to e/abli%m5ts op5 to inspection by ! ,c4 ,r4 ,b4 ,at "o "t ^! ?read %ipm5ts 7 /opt--a p]iod ( cruel anxiety = ! wom5--b happily aft] a re-adju/m5t !y 7 cont9u$4 ,& once ^! int]national gu>anties 7 obta9$1 ! ,belgian ,comit ,national 0 able to arrange = ! di/ribution ( ! ?read to ! v>i\s1 ev5 remote1 lace c5t]s1 & = ! return ( ! f9i%$ laces to ,brussels4 ,!y grant$ ! wom5 a subsidy ( #aj1jjj & insur$ to ea* d5tellire ! *ance to make at lea/ ?ree francs wor? ( lace a week--a small m9imum1 to be sure1 b e "o und]/ood x might be increas$ lat]1 & t if ea* ( ! _m ?\s&s ( work]s 0 to h an equal opportunity1 x c\ld n 9 ! beg9n+ be m4 ,aft] ?is ! ,lace ,committee _h at times z _m z #de1jjj wom5 on its li/s4 ,! "w 9 ! s*ools & out ( !m began to be> fruit4 ,! sweat+ sy/em1 & paym5t 9 k9d 79 clo?+ & food7 7 practically wip$ out1 & inspection & control e/abli%$4 ,ev]y:]e ! /&>d ( design & ( execution 0 rais$2 old patt]ns 7 re/or$ & improv$1 & by ! end ( ! w> #b1bcg new designs _h be5 add$4 ,b ?is 0 n advance ?r\gh op5 c\ntry4 ,!re 0 con/ant dang] t at any mom5t ! way might be completely b>r$2 at any "t ! gu>anties cov]+ ! ?read importations might be )drawn4 ,! ,g]mans e>ly orig9at$ a 8,lace ,control0 ( _! own1 & tri$ 9 e possible way to w9 ov] ! ,belgian work]s1 & to buy up all ! lace 9 ! c\ntry4 ,!y accus$ ! ,brussels ,committee ( be+ a political & patriotic body exi/+ *iefly to defeat ! occupy+ p[]s & ! ,flemi% activi/s4 ,!n !re 7 o!r c\rage-te/+ difficulties4 ,b despite all ob/acles & p]ils1 ! wom5 p]si/$1 & cont9ually ! preci\s ske9s ( ?read1 ) _! message ( 8,c>ry ,on0 7 flung out f ,brussels to ! f>!rmo/ corn]s ( ! l&1 b9d+ all toge!r 9 a firm & beautiful web ( hope & confid5ce4 ,= ! enemy 0 "r 9 suspect+ ! ,committee ( a purpose deep] ?an t ( m]ely try+ to save wom5 f ! s\p-l9e2 !y c>ri$ on a patriotic "w ( highe/ importance4 ,to !m ,i owe a p]sonal debt ( gratitude1 = !y p]mitt$ me to foll[ _! devot$ s]vice closely1 & !y op5$ ! door = me to a new _w ( beauty & int]e/4 ,,introduction ,lace is a tissue compos$ ( me% & 8fl[]s0 7patt]n71 or ei!r "o alone1 produc$ ) a ne$le & s+le ?read1 or ) sev]al ?reads manipulat$ by means ( bobb9s4 ,x is ! product ( a natural evolution f e>ly embroid]ies & weav+4 ,we possess no contemporane\s hi/ory ( ! orig9s & developm5t ( ! lace art1 p>tly1 p]haps1 because ( ! tradition1 /rong among ! initiat$1 ( hid+ its secrets1 & ( ! consequ5t difficulty ( an outsid] to ma/] !m1 & p>tly because successive w>s & _w cataclysms h int]rupt$ or de/roy$ its progress4 ,we h ample pro(1 h[ev]1 t lace 9 "s =m exi/$ 9 remote antiquity1--9 e>ly ,egypt1 9 ,p]sia1 9 ,bysance & ,syria1 :]e x 0 *iefly made by slaves2 ! ,greeks & ,hebrews speak ( ne$le lace z kn[n ?r\gh\t all "t4 ,x 0 n1 9 ^! ori5tal c\ntries1 ! delicate :ite me% t we call lace1 :i* w\ld h be5 mo/ unbecom+ to d>k sk91 b includ$ ri*ly color$ passem5t]ies & filets & fr+es1 wov5 ( gold & silv] ?read1 ( dy$ wool & cotton1 & ( ! co>se l95 fib] ( ! ,nile ,valley4 ,x 0 usually ( hi]atic & symbolic design1 & sometimes s[n ) gems--all capable ( brilliantly enhanc+ ! beauty ( ! ,ea/4 ,egyptian ladies ( #f1jjj ye>s ago trimm$ _! robes ) elaborate l5g?s ( filet1 & cov]$ _! dead ) x4 ,9 ! ,c9quant5aire ,museum at ,brussels !re is ! photograph ( a rem>kable little wov5 l95 bag1 simil> to "o we might c>ry to-day1 :i* 0 f\nd 9 ! tomb ( a ,prie/ess ( ,ha?or1 be>+ ! m>k ( "o ( ! e>li] dyna/ies4 ,its me% is almo/ id5tical ) t ( our mod]n ,val5ci5nes1 & x 0 und\bt$ly made ) bobb9s4 ,betwe5 anci5t & m$ival times1 ! lace-gap is unbridg$ by writt5 record2 we mu/ ga!r :at we c f ! ar*eologi/ & f ! works ( ! sculptor & pa9t]4 ,occasionally we are ?rill$ by su* a discov]y z t ( ,m4 ,bixio1 :o 9 excavat+ at ,clat]na1 an old ,roman ,city ne> ,bologna1 came ^u a set ( bone bobb9s1 ly+ 9 pairs1 z we employ !m 9 lace-mak+ to-day4 ,b int]e/+ discov]ies are r>e1 & ! body ( our k ( lace hi/ory s f> is meag]4 ,h[ev]1 we are int]e/$ prim>ily1 n 9 ! anci5t orig9s ( ! two great lace gr\ps1 nor 9 e>ly passem5t]ies & filets & _! processes1 b 9 ! m>vel\s effloresc5ce ( ! lace art ( ! ,we/]n ,europe ( ! #af?1 #ag? & #ah? c5turies1 & 9 its /ill lovely expression ( to-day4 ,9 m$ival pa9t+1 be=e ! appe>ance ( l95 & its use z trimm+1 or z l+]ie1 ,i "k ( no picture %[+ lace4 ,/uffs 7 /iff & heavy1 & ornam5t$ ) metal1 or ) gold or silv] ?read4 ,z !y became m supple1 we f9d1 z 9 ! portrait ( ,w5ceslas ( ,luxemburg 7ab\t #acfj7 decoration introduc$ 9 ! clipp$ clo? bord] ( ! coll> & hood4 ,?is s]rat$ edge sugge/s ! fir/ simple ,cluny lace patt]ns t appe>$ lat]4 ,!n we see ! fir/ l95 %[+ ?r\gh ! sla%$ sleeve or above ! corsage1--"o ( _m pa9t+s illu/rat+ ?is developm5t1 is t ( ! ,duke ( ,cleves1 by ,meml+ 7second half ( ! #ae? c5tury74 ,& %ortly aft]w>d ! fir/ lace edg+s appe>1 ! beg9n+ ( our lace ( ! middle ages1 ( its rebir? 9 ,we/]n ,europe4 ,! se>* = ^! details ( progress 9 ! pa9t+s ( ,european gall]ies is a fasc9at+ & rew>d+ game2 a ,belgian fri5d ( m9e has sp5t _m ye>s at x4 ,! fl[]+ ( ! lace-art 0 "p ( ! great ,r5aissance 7lagg+ beh9d1 to be sure1 ! major arts7 & n[ 0 no long] ! "w ( slaves1 b reg>d$ z an important1 indep5d5t mti]1 & happily x usually escap$ ! despotism ( ! m$ival corporations4 ,italy1 probably ?r\gh h] exploitation 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! #ae? c5tury ( h] ,greek ,colonies1 0 its fir/ we/]n home1 & ,v5ice1 ! c5t] = ! exquisite ne$le laces ( :i* our museums =tunately /ill pres]ve specim5s4 ,:ile laces made ) ! ne$le & s+le ?read 7 fl\ri%+ "u ! ,doges1 bobb9 laces1 twi/$ & braid$ ) _m ?reads1 7 be+ made 9 ,sicily & 9 o!r sections ( ! c\ntry4 ,f ,v5ice1 ! secrets ( ! art travel$ easily 9 sev]al directions1 & probably ab\t ! close ( ! #ae? c5tury by way ( ! ?riv+ port ( ,antw]p1 to ! indu/ri\s & beauty-lov+ ,fl&]s1 :]e ! se$ fell on mo/ f]tile soil4 ,fl&]s posse/ a multitude ( work]s already skill$ 9 an alli$ art1 t ( weav+1 & ! necess>y lace mat]ial 9 h] valley ( ! ,lys1 ! f9e/ flax region ( ! _w4 ,val5ci5nes1 ,lille1 ,mal9es1 ,gh5t1 ,bruges1 turn$ to lace-mak+ ) a v]itable passion2 x spread ?r\gh\t wide di/ricts ( :at are n[ ,nor!rn ,france & ,belgium4 ,dur+ ! #af? & #ag? c5turies1 ! lace indu/ry made ph5om5al progress1 bo? ext5sively & int5sively4 ,holl& & ,engl& s5t cont9ually l>g] ord]s to ,fl&]s4 ,z clo?s grew f9] & s(t]1 & ! mode ( we>+ !m m graceful1 & z da9ti] l95s 7 increas+ly employ$1 lace became ev] m filmy & exquisite4 ,a work] sp5t p]haps a :ole ye> on a s+le met] ( ,val5ci5nes1 "o head-dress co/ z mu* z #bjj1jjj livres4 ,e lace _h its "t1 its season4 ,dur+ ?is epo*1 ne$le laces 7 supreme1 z bobb9 laces 7 to be 9 ! #ah? c5tury4 ,"u ,l\is ,,xiv lace rea*$ its climax ( p]fection & beauty4 ,colb]t import$ lace-wom5 f ea* c5t] :]e !y _h be5 conspicu\sly successful4 ,he enc\rag$ ! inv5tion ( new designs & te*nique2 he subsidiz$ s*ools 9 _m cities1 at ,reims1 ,al5on1 ,arras1 ,s$an1 & he ?reat5$ ) ! dea? p5alty ^? :o might attempt to c>ry lace secrets beyond ! ,fr5* bord]s1--9 e way he s\ght to develop an art t %\ld belong peculi>ly to ,france4 ,?us direct$ & subsidiz$ by ! /ate1 & nurtur$ & /imulat$ by a beauty-seek+ c\rt1 ^: love ( luxury 0 /ill controll$ by ta/e & ref9em5t1 x is n surpriz+ t ?is lace-p]iod surpass$ any o!r kn[n4 ,x 0 true ( ! ,c\rt ( ,l\is ,,xiv z ( t ( ,l\is ,,xiii t a seigneur 0 kn[n by ! numb] & quality ( 8 lace po9ts2 "s ( !m posse/ sev]al hundr$ g>nitures4 ,un=tunately ! work]s did n pr(it by ?is brilliant developm5t1--!y seem f ! beg9n+ pr$e/9$ to be ! victims ( a social & economic slav]y4 ,b !re 7 already evid5ces ( an attempt to control a dem& = luxury t ?reat5$ disa/]4 ,) ! #af? c5tury1 heavy duties & excess taxes 7 levi$ ^u lace4 ,an edict1 dat$ #agbi1 prohibit$ ! we>+ ( x1 9 ! hope ( *eck+ ov]-extravagance 9 dress4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury ,,portrait ,%[+ heavy brocade z yet unreliev$ by l95 or lace trimm+ ,illu/ration3 ,,portrait ,,( ,,*>les ,,ix 7#aegj7 ,l95 coll> %[+ picot edge made ) ! ne$le ,aft] its apoge "u ,l\is ,,xiv1 lace-mak+ 0 caught1 along ) ! o!r arts1 9 ! tide ( deg5]acy4 ,its designs 7 m>k$ by fantasy & grotesqu5ess1 r ?an by ! delicacy & beauty ( ! prec$+ p]iod2 ?o :ile x det]iorat$ 9 design1 its te*nique grew con/antly f9] & m complicat$1 until1 f ! po9t ( view ( ! workman%ip at lea/1 x seem$ almo/ sup]human4 ,b 9 ! second half ( ! #ah? c5tury1 we>i$ ( complications & extravagance1 p amus$ !mselves by a return to simplicity4 ,! ,m>quise de ,pompad\r affect$ laces s[n ) simple 8fl[]s10 & ,m>ie ,anto9ette w5t fur!r 9 pref]r+ a patt]n ( scatt]$ 8po9ts0 or peas4 ,) ?is return to ! primitive 9 design1 ! te*nique ( lace rev]t$ also4 ,9 _m qu>t]s1 ! %e] musl9s ( ! ,indias ga9$ favor ov] lace4 ,trade1 already burd5$ ) ! duties & imports t _h gr[n up ar\nd ! extravagant laces1 suff]$ fur!r f ! sudd5 popul>ity ( ! simple co/ume4 ,! dea?-bl[ ( ! indu/ry 9 ,france 0 to foll[ close on ! heels ( ?is new fa%ion4 ,s9ce lace _h be5 ! p>ticul> pride ( ! ari/ocrat1 ! ,revolution made x a crime to appe> 9 x4 ,9 su* "o-"t fam\s c5t]s z ,val5ci5nes & ,lille1 ! bobb9s ceas$1 ?o ! indu/ry ( t region s\ght refuge f>!r we/1 9 ,bailleul1--9 ,bailleul1 du/ & a%es to-day6 ,=tunately 9 ,belgium1 lace-mak+ g5]ally surviv$ ! crisis ( ! ,revolution1 ?o x has suff]$ f succe$+ disa/r\s influ5ces4 ,at ! op5+ ( ! #ai? c5tury & "u ! ,empire1 ta/e 0 heavy1 design rigid & milit>y1 ) no?+ 9 common ) true lace motifs4 ,dur+ ! op5+ ye>s ( #ahjj ! inv5tion ( ma*9e-made tulle1 br\ght f ,engl& to ,calais1 effect$ fur!r sad *anges 9 ! lace-_w2 sc>fs1 veils1 entire robes ( tulle1 ornam5t$ ) applications ( ne$le or bobb9-made details--(t5 palms & laurel wrea?s--7 all ! mode4 ,p pref]r$ ^! to ! exquisite lace jabots & fl\nces ( ! prec$+ c5tury4 ,9 #ahcc cotton ?read began to be us$ in/ead ( ! /rong] l95 ( ! be/ lace p]iods4 ,! delicate lace-art cont9u$ to suff] ) all ! o!rs "u ! g5]al decad5ce ( ! reign ( ,l\is ,philippe & ! ,second ,empire4 ,indu/rial & comm]cial developm5t 0 ! note ( ! age2 ! ri* amus$ !mselves 9 travel1 9 new sc5es & sports1 r ?an 9 fo/]+ ! arts4 ,9 fact1 dur+ ! ?irty ye>s foll[+ ! w> ( #ahgj1 lace seem$ almo/ =gott5 except 9 ,am]ica4 ,! numb] ( work]s 9 ,belgium fell f betwe5 #ajj & #aej1jjj1 to #ej1jjj or less4 ,b be=e ! _w 0 plung$ into ?is la/1 mo/ de/ructive ( w>s1 !re _h be5 signs ( a r5aissance 9 ! decorative arts4 ,p _h begun to read & comp>e1 & ref9e _! ta/e4 ,! rul]s ( ,italy & ,france & ,belgium 7 w9n+ results 9 _! attempts to rescue1 & to revive & develop ! lace-art1 :i* _h seem$ ?reat5$ ) ext9ction4 ,!n came ! w>--& ! deva/ation ( entire lace regions1 l t ( ,bailleul 9 ,france1 & ( ,ypres 9 ,belgium4 ,x is true t _m ( ! refugee lace-wom5 h be5 employ$ & enc\rag$ dur+ ! f\r ye>s1 by c]ta9 committees 9 ,france & free ,belgium4 ,& 9 occupi$ ,belgium1 ! unceas+ ef=ts ( ! ,brussels ,lace ,committee h borne ri* fruit4 ,:e!r ! high] /&>ds ( lace design & te*nique1 & ! improv$ condition ( ! lace work]s--bett] education1 %ort] h\rs1 high] pay--w be ma9ta9$ "u po/-w> conditions is yet to be prov$4 ,ov] ?is difficult h\r ( recon/ruction1 ( transf] f w> to :at we fondly call normal conditions1 we c b hope to c>ry ! h>d-won ga9s ( ! te/+ p]iod4 ,9 ?is little book ,i make no attempt to pres5t a hi/ory ( lace1 or a detail$ analysis ( its processes4 ,i h wi%$ m]ely to set d[n 9 simple =m a few ( my obs]vations 9 ! lace di/ricts ( ,belgium1 z ! w> has left h]4 ,to foll[ !m "o does n ne$ ev5 an elem5t>y k ( ! important lace =ms1 ?o t is easily acquir$4 ,= !re are b two l>ge gr\ps2 ! ne$le-lace gr\p1 & ! bobb9-lace gr\p1 betwe5 :i* we le>n quickly to di/+ui%4 ,we c n prove ! "t ( _! respective orig9s2 z we "k !m1 !y seem to h exi/$ side by side1 z !y d 9 ! ,belgium ( to-day4 ,sometimes "o 0 m popul>1 sometimes ! o!r4 ,to place a piece ( lace1 we h fir/ b to ask ! "q1 8,0 x made ) a ne$le1 & by loop+ & twi/+ & weav+ a s+le ?read2 or 0 x made by braid+ & twi/+ & weav+ sev]al ?reads1 by means ( bobb9s & a r\nd or a squ>e cu%ion80 ,9 g5]al1 !re is b "o te*nique = all ne$le laces1 ?o !re is no limit to ! v>iety ( /it*es ! ne$le work] may employ4 ,i h se5 a sc>f1 made dur+ ! w> = ,que5 ,elizabe?1 9 :i* !re 7 _m hundr$ diff]5t po9ts4 ,"o comes soon to recognize ! important ne$le laces2 ! exquisite ,fr5* ,al5ons & ,arg5t9s ( e>li] days1 ) _! me%es made ) a buttonhole loop1 & _! fl[]s /iff5$ ) horsehair2 ! v>i\s ,v5etian po9ts1--,v5ise1 ,burano1 & ,rose po9t2 & ! extremely popul> ,brussels po9t1 ) its gauze me% & rais$ fl[]s4 ,x is *>act]i/ic ( ^! ne$le laces1 t ! fl[]s are ?r[n into relief1 sometimes high1 sometimes sc>cely p]ceptible4 ,bobb9 laces may be made ) a doz5 or ) "o hundr$ times z _m ?reads1 accord+ to ! design & wid? ( ! lace4 ,!y fall into two sub-gr\ps1 ! fir/ includ+ laces made ) uncut ?reads1 9 a s+le piece2 ! second1 ^? made detail by detail1 9 :i* ! ?reads are cut z ea* is f9i%$1 ! complet$ lace piece be+ made by jo9+ ^! sep>ate p>ts4 ,?is second me?od 0 n introduc$ until ! latt] half ( ! #ag? c5tury4 ,9 ! fir/ gr\p1 made ) uncut ?reads1 are ! e>ly ,clunys & ! common ,tor*ons1 ,old ,fl&]s1 ! beautiful ,val5ci5nes1 ,po9t de ,p>is1 ,po9t de ,lille1 ,mal9es & ,b9*e1 ) _! delicate r\nd1 or squ>e or hexagonal me%es1 f :i* ! patt]n blossoms4 ,_! fl[]s are flat1 nev] lift$ 9 relief1 ?o a heavy outl9+ ?read (t5 sets !m (f brilliantly f ! surr\nd+ field4 ,! second bobb9 gr\p1 9 :i* ! f9al lace piece is compos$ ( unit$ details1 includes black & :ite ,*antilly1 ,blonde1 popul> ) ,spani% peoples1 ,brussels ,du*esse & ,bruges ,du*esse1 mo/ frequ5tly display$ 9 our ,am]ican %ops1 & ! f9] ,rosal9e1 :i* 0 9 great dem& :5 ! w> broke out4 ,?is gr\p ( bobb9 laces admits a k9d ( relief4 ,illu/ration3 ,,portrait ,,t[>d ,,close ,,( ,,sixte5? ,,c5tury ,%[+ coll> ornam5t$ ) bobb9-made cluny ,"s laces comb9e bo? ne$le & bobb9 po9ts4 ,9 ! lovely ,po9t d',anglet]re1 increas+ly difficult to obta91 bobb9-made fl[]s are unit$ by an airy ne$le me%4 ,& ! co>s] ,fl&]s lace has ! same composition4 ,illu/ration3 ,,anne ,,( ,,au/ria ,,by ,,van ,,dyck ,ab\t #afce1 cluny lace made ) bobb9s ,!re are1 besides1 ! famili> & (t5 beautiful ,applications1 9 :i* ei!r ne$le or bobb9-made fl[]s are /it*$1 or appliqud on ma*9e-made tulle1 or1 r>ely1 on a tulle made by h&4 ,& v>i\s mix$ laces1 fantasies & embroid]$ tulles1 z well z a :ole company ( *eap] tissues call$ lace1 b :i* c n hone/ly claim ! "n1 are try+ always to cr[d ! true lace f ! m>ket4 ,naturally1 ! te*nique ( any giv5 k9d ( lace has und]gone v>i\s trans=mations ?r\gh ! c5turies4 ,! ,val5ci5nes me%1 = in/ance1 fir/ _h r\nd spaces1 :ile squ>e ones became m popul> lat]4 ,dur+ a c]ta9 p]iod ! introduction ( j\rs1 or op5-"w effects1 add$ an airy lightness to _m laces4 ,i _h ! pleasure rec5tly ( be+ ) a fri5d ( m9e1 ! si/] ( ! ,belgian ,consul-,g5]al at ,new ,york1 ,madame ,kef]-,mali1 :o has devot$ tw5ty ye>s to ! /udy ( lace1 :5 %e fir/ exam9$ a lace collection lately pres5t$ to ! ,c9quant5aire ,museum4 ,) magnify+ glass ,i foll[$ f case to case1 z %e plac$ ea* specim5 9 its c\ntry & c5tury1 accord+ to its design1 its me%1 ! mann] ( direct+ ! ?reads1 ! relief ( ! fl[]s1 ! v>i\s /it*es or ! k9d ( ?read employ$4 ,z ,i li/5$ to h]1 x 0 easy to appreciate :y lace may become an all-absorb+ int]e/4 ,madame ,kef]-,mali's love = ! lace itself is n[ subord9ate to h] passionate desire to secure ju/ice = ! lace-work]4 ,z %e takes a filmy l5g? 9 h] h&1 h] fir/ ?\ght is ( ! tal5t & pati5ce ( ! girl or woman :o made x1 ( ! eye-/ra9+1 meticul\s labor x repres5ts1 & ( ! pittance /ill paid h] = h] gift to ! _w ( art4 ,madame ,kef]-,mali has already won some?+ = ! d5tellire & %e w cont9ue to fight = m4 ,?o !re are lace sections 9 widely scatt]$ p>ts ( ,belgium1 none 7except ,turnh\t7 is s important z ^? ( ! two ,fl&]s4 ,we/]n & ,ea/]n ,fl&]s =m an almo/ cont9u\s & unrivall$ lace region1 :i* breaks up irregul>ly into di/ricts1 ea* celebrat$ = a p>ticul> k9d1 or = sev]al k9ds ( lace4 ,h[ev]1 x w\ld be impossible to draw an accurate map illu/rat+ ! ,belgian lace situation1 ei!r f ! po9t ( view ( ! v>ieties made & _! quality1 or ( ! work]s4 ,x seems1 inde$1 at times t lace 0 inv5t$ to defeat ! /ati/ician1 = he no soon] rea*es a conclusion ?an x proves inexact2 a factory rises ne> a c]ta9 riv] & ! lace wom5 des]t _! cu%ions to accept its bett] wages2 9 a village long devot$ to ,ne$le ,po9t1 "y girls discov] t ! bobb9-made ,clunys pay bett]1 or !y m>ry & make no lace at all until _! *ildr5 are p>tly gr[n2 poor crops & result+ mis]y may s5d o!rs :o h n = "s "t be5 li/$ z work]s back to _! cu%ions4 ,=1 s9ce despite ! _m s*ools & "w-rooms1 ! great majority ( wom5 /ill "w at home1 lace-mak+ is peculi>ly s5sitive to e *ange 9 family & community life4 ,we may say1 h[ev]1 t despite con/antly %ift+ conditions1 ,we/]n ,fl&]s =ms a great bobb9-lace area1 unque/ionably ! mo/ important 9 ! _w to-day1 :ile ,ea/]n ,fl&]s has be5 = c5turies & /ill is1 fam\s = its ne$le po9ts4 ,un=tunately1 too1 because ( ! mis]able lace-wage 79 ,belgium1 be=e ! w>1 x av]ag$ ab\t a franc a day7 ?is indu/ry has be5 reg>d$ always z a supplem5t>y occupation1 on :i* ! family c\ld n rely = its ma9 support1 & :i* 0 n capable ( organization & amelioration z o!r indu/ries are4 ,! slav]y conditions h und\bt$ly be5 due *iefly to lack ( good s*ools & con/ructive lace tra9+1 & to ! sy/em by :i* a facteur1 or fir/ buy]1 collects ! laces1 to re-sell !m to a fabricant1 or deal]1 :o 9 turn may sell !m to a l>g] fabricant--a sy/em p]mitt+ any numb] ( int]m$i>ies--& also to ! fact t ! wom51 scatt]$ z !y are ?r\gh\t ! agricultural regions1 h nev] protect$ !mselves by =m+ syndicates4 ,! fir/ /ep t[>d emancipation has be5 tak52 ! new tea*+ is "u way4 ,! fatal sy/em ( ! _m int]m$i>ies rema9s to be dealt )--to be swept away4 ,& x is hop$ t feel+ ! new p[] education w give !m1 ! d5tellires w at la/ f9d ways ei!r ?r\gh unions or by o!r means1 ( protect+ !mselves4 ,= ! re/1 fixt data are difficult to obta94 ,! lace indu/ry c n be captur$ & subject$ to cold analysis & tabulation4 ,x mu/ be /udi$ diff]5tly f o!r indu/ries t c be localiz$4 ,z 9 le>n+ to "k ! g>d5 fl[]s ( a c\ntry1 "o mu/ g f door/ep to door/ep1 s if "o wi%es to und]/& lace1 "o %\ld become famili> ) its milieu1 ! family & community life f :i* x spr+s4 ,9 a s5se1 !n1 ^! little j\rneys to lace di/ricts :i* are ! subjects ( my *apt]s1 may sugge/ m ab\t :at lace really is ?an a m te*nical & =midable volume4 ,i ,,turnh\t ,lace ,*ildr5 ( ! ,nor? ,lace is ! fl[] ( ,belgium2 ! :ite blossom t spr+s f ! teem+ pla9s ( ! ,fl&]s1 f ! agricultural di/ricts1 & f ! m\rnful ,camp9e ( ! ,nor?4 ,dur+ ! long & solit>y w9t]s1 :5 "w 9 ! fields is impossible1 ?\s&s ( wom5 & girls & little *ildr5 turn to _! lace cu%ions1 & dre>y rooms are enliv5$ by ! music ( ! fly+ bobb9s4 ,if ! lace is ,ne$le ,po9t1 & lacks ! accompany+ click-clack ( ! %ift+ fuseaux1 x nev]!less gives purpose & value to ! o!rwise almo/ unsupportable w9t] days4 ,h[ev]1 despite ! "t t mu/ be subtract$ = we$+1 = ga!r+ ! all-important potato crop1 & = o!r f>m duties1 summ] ) its bright light & long day1 is ! true lace season2 x is only !n t "s ( ! f9e/ v>ieties c be execut$4 ,co>s] pieces mu/ be sub/itut$ = ! dull1 eye-/ra9+ days4 ,to be sure1 "s lace-mak+ is /ill c>ri$ on 9 c]ta9 cities1 b v little4 ,?is delicate mti] c n successfully combat ! influ5ces ( ! social & indu/rial gr\p+s ( ! l>g] c5t]s2 ! liv+ wage1 ! %ort] h\rs1 ! di/ractions ( c9ma & caf4 ,! cities rema9 ! logical c5t]s = ! normal & tra9+-s*ools1 = assembl+1 & display1 & sale2 b ! age-old pati5ce ( ! lace-mak] is born ( a c]ta9 ignorance & isolation4 ,?is does n mean t ! indu/ry may n p]si/ /ill on ! fr+es ( "s ( ! l>g] cities1 or fl\ri% 9 ne>by villages--x does2 & 9 ?ree conspicu\s in/ances1 until ! w>1 x rema9$ ! dom9at+ activity ( a city4 ,bruges1 ,ypres1 & ,turnh\t1 c\ld truly be call$ 8lace cities40 ,n[ !re are b two2 = ,ypres1 ! pe>l ( ,fl&]s1 is gone4 ,turnh\t1 a t[n ( #bd1jjj inhabitants1 9 ! ,nor!rn ,camp9e di/rict1 is n only a 8lace city10 c\nt+ #f1jjj work]s1 b if "o consid]s its long li/ ( excell5t lace-s*ools1 ! f9e v>ieties made !re1 & ! quality ( ! workman%ip1 x appe>s suffici5tly important to *all5ge ! lead]%ip ( ,bruges4 ,h[ev]1 ,turnh\t /&s practically alone 9 ! nor?1 :ile ,bruges is ! c5t] ( we/]n ,fl&]s1 "o ( ! l>ge/ lace contribut+ areas 9 ,belgium1 & promises1 !re=e1 to hold = a long "t h] title ( fir/ lace-city4 ,x is /range to ?9k ( ,turnh\t z a remote t[n1 s9ce x is sc>cely two h\rs by motor f ,antw]p2 b ! fir/ glimpse ( ! int]v5+ s& wa/es ( ! ,camp9e region awak5s at once a s5sation ( lonel9ess1 ( isolation4 ,i made ! j\rney 9 late ,novemb]1 rea*+ ,turnh\t ab\t noon ( a l[ gray day1 j z hundr$s ( gold5-hair$ *ildr5--no mi/s c\ld dull ! bright gold ( _! hair--7 clatt]+ along ! /one sidewalks 9 _! wood5 %oes1 on _! way home f s*ool4 ,z always1 ,i m>vel$ at ! way !y c\ld leap & run )\t los+ _! sabots4 ,!y 7 8lace *ildr510 ne>ly all ( !m "p ( ! little army ( #a1hjj 9 ! lace-s*ools1 & because ( ! intellig5t "w ( ! s\p-kit*5s & d9+-rooms = debilitat$ *ildr5 dur+ ! f\r ye>s ( w>1 7 probably1 _m ( !m1 9 bett] physical condition ?an !y _h be5 at its beg9n+4 ,! wom5 ( ! ,brussels ,lace ,committee _h succe$$1 too1 9 augm5t+ _! food ration f "t to "t4 ,_! *ief visible ne$ 0 = /ock+s & %oes--& ,i knew f ! tea*]s lat] t !y sadly lack$ und]clo!s4 ,mo!rs c pat* & repat*1 & add 9 v>i\s ways to out] g>m5ts2 b aft] a c]ta9 numb] ( wa%+s1 und]g>m5ts simply disappe>4 ,i w5t fir/ to ! conv5t ( ! ,abb ,b]raly :i*1 dur+ ! w>1 enc\rag$ by ! advice & support ( ! ,lace ,committee1 has develop$ into ! model s*ool ( ,belgium4 ,x is situat$ 9 a cr[d$ "p ( ! t[n1 b its own f9e brick build+s clu/] ab\t a spaci\s c\rty>d & vegetable g>d5s4 ,9 summ] ! *ildr5 "w mu* out ( doors1 ?o :5 !y are inside _! class-rooms x seems /ill impossible = ! tea*]s to break ) ! tradition ( ! clos$ w9d[4 ,i began my visit 9 a little room at ! "r ( ! entrance hall1 :]e six old] girls 7 /ill at "w1 ?o ! #ejj o!r pupils _h gone = _! lun*4 ,doz5s ( rubb$ c>bon copies ( lace patt]ns 7 p9n$ to ! walls along ) execut$ samples ( ! lace !y repres5t$4 ,?is 0 a piqu class-room2 ! "y wom5 seat$ at high1 n>r[ tables1 7 c>efully at "w on pieces ( glossy gre5 c>dbo>d on :i* ! lace design _h be5 drawn & :i* !y 7 prick+ ) p9s1 or cov]+ ) t9y holes1 t indicate ! position ( ! p9s t mu/ hold ! ?read z x is twi/$ or loop$ or braid$1 by ! work]4 ,! c>dbo>d piqu is 9 a s5se bo? ! beg9n+ & ! end ( ! lace c\rse2 ! beg9n+1 s9ce no pupil c />t 8 lace )\t ! piqu1 or int]pret$ patt]n1 & ! end1 s9ce x is ! mo/ difficult ( all ! processes 9 ! te*nique ( ! lace4 ,! piqueuse mu/ und]/& ! design & its practical execution1 mu/ int]pret ! picture to ! work] 9 t]ms ( p9-pricks m>k+ ! progress ( h] ?read4 ,a good piqueuse kn[s imm$iately1 on look+ at a draw+1 :e!r x is a true lace design1 or mu/ be adapt$1 & also 9 :i* k9d ( lace x c be be/ expre/4 ,z %e %ifts a p9-prick less ?an a hair's wid? to ! left or to ! "r %e v>ies appreciably ! result+ me% or fl[]4 ,%e has consid]able lib]ty 9 decid+ :i* p>ticul> /it*es w be mo/ effective to fill 9 ! j\rs1 or op5-"w spaces indicat$ 9 ! patt]n4 ,"o ( ! great evils ( ! pa/ has be5 ! abs5ce ( tra9+-s*ools1 & ! consequ5t lack ( piqueuses2 9 ea* g5]ation !re h be5 b a few good ones1 :o h1 9 a s5se1 held ! lace indu/ry 9 _! h&s4 ,be=e ! w>1 ,ypres _h two fam\s piqueuses1 to :om patt]ns 7 s5t f an entire region2 & 9 ! t[n ( ,turnh\t to-day1 ) its ?\s&s ( work]s1 ?o !re are sev]al less exp]i5c$ piqueuses1 !re is b "o woman to :om ! f9e/ & mo/ complicat$ draw+s c be entru/$ = int]pretation4 ,%e is ! only p]son1 = example1 :o c\ld make ! piqu = ! beautiful sc>f1 :i* ,i saw lat] be+ execut$ 9 ! ,po9t de ,p>is room--= t %e receiv$ #ij francs4 ,x is a common say+ t "o mu/ be born a piqueuse to succe$2 at lea/ x rema9s true t 9 addition to h] capacity = an intricate & mo/ meticul\s labor1 ! piqueuse %\ld possess a high s5sitiv5ess to art values4 ,! little room 9 ! ,abb ,b]raly's s*ool is "o expression ( ! ,lace ,committee's conviction t ! emancipation ( ! indu/ry & ( ! lace-mak] w come only ?r\gh education4 ,illu/ration3 ,,abb ,,b]raly ,,s*ool1 ,,turnh\t ,g5]al view ,illu/ration3 ,,n9e-,,ye>-,,old ,,*ildr5 ,,mak+ ,,po9t ,,de ,,p>is ,9 g5]al ! wom5 ( ! pa/ h sat dumbly be=e _! cu%ions1 helpless to d any?+ b cont9ue to execute1 ye> aft] ye>1 ! p>ticul> c>dbo>d patt]n ! facteur1 or lace ag5t1 plac$ be=e !m4 ,!y _h little or no conception ( ! ri* art _w ( :i* _! fl[]$ fl\nces 7 a "p1 & no feel+ at all ( _! p[] to influ5ce t _w by int]pret+ a design = !mselves1 or by correct+ or improv+ x1 or ev5 p]haps by creat+ a new "o4 ,n t all work]s %\ld become design]s1 or ev5 piqueuses--progress dep5ds1 z x does 9 o!r indu/ries1 on specialization2 b at lea/ tra9$ work]s w enjoy ! fre$om to *oose & ! feel+ ( indep5d5ce t comes f a ?or\gh k ( _! mti]4 ,9 ?is room !n 0 a class ( speciali/s1 six smil+1 intellig5t "y wom5 betwe5 #af & #ah equipp+ !mselves z exp]ts 9 int]pretation4 ,! designs on :i* !y work$1 _m ( !m revivals ( classic ones long =gott51 or beautiful rec5t creations ( ,belgian arti/s1 _h be5 s5t up to !m f ! ,committee's c5tral room ( design 9 ,brussels4 ,be=e ! w>1 !y w\ld h come f ! p>ticul> lace deal] to ^: ag5t _! laces 7 sold4 ,op5+ f ! little patt]n room ,i f\nd ! (fice ) its great oak armoire1 :]e ! co/ly f9i%$ laces are /or$ until ! day !y are tak5 to ,brussels1 to be comb9$ into beautiful confections = ! salon or b$room or d9+-room1 or = p]sonal adornm5t4 ,( c\rse1 "s are always resold by ! met]1 b "o ( ! *ief successes ( ! ,lace ,committee has be5 ! employm5t ( motifs & y>d laces 9 ! production ( clo?s & spreads & innum]able articles ( a lovel9ess hi!rto unkn[n4 ,f ! (fice & ! little room :]e ! prick$ c>dbo>d patt]ns are prep>$ = ! cu%ions1 ,i w5t fur!r along ! hall1 & turn$ to ! left1 :]e at ! foot ( a /aircase 7 new wood5 b5*es await+ ! sabots ( ! return+ *ildr54 ,^! b5*es 7 new because ! ,g]mans1 :o1 "h z else:]e1 _h driv5 ! *ildr5 f _! s*ool1 _h burn$ _! b5*es1 & n only ! b5*es1 b all visible wood--!y _h torn casem5ts f ! w9d[s & doorways1 z well z remov+ e knob & fixture4 ,?is 0 disgu/+1 b m or less und]/&able4 ,_! c\ntry dem&$ m cannon1 !re=e !y took brass & copp]2 !y 7 cold1 s !y ripp$ (f ! ne>e/ available piece ( wood4 ,b wood & metal fail$ to satisfy !m2 up/airs at "o end ( ! l>ge/ room !re is a pretty /age arrang$ = s*ool fe/ivals1 ) a pa9t$ =e/ backgr\nd1 & side w+-drops pictur+ mead[-l&s4 ,^! fa!rs & bro!rs ( ,g]man *ildr5 sla%$ & ripp$ ! pa9t$ canvas =e/ & ran _! bayonets ?r\gh ! =egr\nd mead[s1 ) no spur beyond t ( ! pleasure 9 ! act2 = no in* ( ! canvas _h be5 tak5 away--,i c\ld h replac$ ! :ole f ! rags4 ,x 0 /ill only a little pa/ "o o'clock1 & ! *ildr5 _h n yet return$4 ,i w5t into ! beg9n]s' room1 :]e l>ge w9d[s let 9 all ! light !re 0 on ?is gray day1 & saw ! long1 ev5 r[s ( l[ ru%-seat$1 high-back$ *airs1 ) ! s*ool-room sabots 7:]e ! *ildr5 7 =tunate en\gh to possess ?is second pair7 hang+ f ! backs4 ,be=e ea* *air 0 a r\nd or squ>e "w-cu%ion & ov] ea* cu%ion a :ite clo? c>efully spread to protect ! preci\s ?read-be>+ bobb9s b5ea?4 ,! :ole empty1 sil5t place seem$ prep>$ = a c]emonial or religi\s rite2 & e sn[y cu%ion a t9y alt> await+ its m9i/rant4 ,at la/ !y 7 com+ back1 ! y\ng] *ildr5 clatt]+ 9 ahead ( ! old] girls1 to deposit _! muddy /reet sabots on ! b5*es4 ,su* a ru% ( yell[-hair$ babies = _! *airs--sev]al ( !m 7 no m ?an sev5 ye>s old2 _m 7 betwe5 n9e & t54 ,little feet slipt into ! clean sabots1 :ite clo?s 7 c>efully lift$ & fold$1 si/]s & tea*]s began _! r\nds ( inspection & in/ruction1 z t9y h&s took _! positions ov] ! heaps ( bobb9s--"o at ! left1 "o at ! "r--& ! cad5ce ( ! click+ wood began4 ,x 0 impossible = me to foll[ ^! incr$ible little f+]s z !y twi/$ & braid$ f p9 to p94 ,i _h se5 scales s rapidly play$ t ! successive motions 7 only a blur1 b ^! %ift+s back & =? ( ! bobb9s 7 ev5 m bewild]+4 ,m /rangely mov+ ?an ! picture ( any great or*e/ra :]e gift$ f+]s wrung melody f a myriad ( /r+s1 0 ?is ( ! play ( hundr$s ( baby h&s ov] ?reads & bobb9s1 z ! fl[]s blossom$ b5ea? !m4 ,x is said t to become a good lace-mak] "o mu/ beg91 z he w\ld if he expect$ to become a di/+ui%$ piani/1 at late/ at ! age ( sev5 or eight4 ,! great] numb] ( ^! little girls 7 mak+ ,po9t de ,p>is edg+s4 ,!y _h _! prick$ patt]ns p9n$ ne> ! top ( ! squ>e l95-cov]$ cu%ions & 7 work+ ! ?reads v]tically t[>d !m4 ,s9ce ! p9s :i* hold ! ?reads 9 place mu/ be con/antly mov$ along z ! "w proce$s1 x is v important t ! cu%ion %\ld be /uff$ ) some?+ t ! p9s c easily p5etrate4 ,^! p>ticul> cu%ions 7 /uff$ ) wool1 "s conta9 /raw1 & ! l95 cov]+ 0 blue1 ?o x is (t5 ! natural color4 ,besides guid+ ! t9y brass p9s 7:i* v>y ) ! delicacy ( ! lace7 t hold ! ?read1 ea* *ild mu/ "k h[ to manipulate ! long brass p9s :i* sep>ate ! v>i\s gr\ps ( bobb9s n 9 actual use4 ,%e le>ns1 too1 to roll ea* f9i%$ section ( h] lace 9 blue pap] & tuck x c>efully away 9 ! little draw] bel[ ! upp] "p ( ! cu%ion2 ! true lace-mak] prides h]self on ! sn[y :it5ess ( h] lace1 :i* %e protects 9 e conceivable way4 ,:ile ,i 0 mov+ f "o to ano!r1 a si/] _h ga!r$ a gr\p ( sev5 to t5 ye> olds ne>] ! /ove--a company ( ,fra ,angelico angels !y look$1 z ,i b5t ov] !m to wat* _! little h&s4 ,!y plac$ brass p9s 9 ! holes prick$ 9 ! patt]n to hold ! r co>se ?read1 twi/$ fir/ two ?reads to ! "r1 !n two to ! left1 !n braid$ !m to =m ! famili> hexagon ( ! ,po9t de ,p>is me%4 ,:5 !y rea*$ ! patt]n1 a mo/ simple conv5tional "o1 o!r bobb9s _h to be br\ght into play4 ,!y held ! ?reads always f ! top ( ! cu%ion v]tically t[>d !m1 ) ! seam edge ( ! lace to ! left & ! bord] to ! "r4 ,ev5 ^! babies _h f #ej to #bjj bobb9s to keep 9 m9d1 r long bee*-wood bobb9s1 ^! = ,po9t de ,p>is1 ) ! ?read tightly w\nd at ! top1 & a consid]able pe>-%ap$ bulge at ! end4 ,ea* lace is suppos$ to require a p>ticul> bobb91 especially suit$ to ! weight ( ?read employ$1 b work]s (t5 use !m indiff]5tly4 ,"s =tunate ones pride !mselves on _! f9e ebony or ivory sets4 ,( c\rse1 bobb9s mu/ be con/antly resuppli$ ) ?read1 & 9 a corn] ( ! room ,i saw a :ite-hair$ gr&mo!r ) h] dvidoir1 or sp9dle1 busily w9d+ ?read on ! bobb9s = ! *ildr54 ,%e made a beautiful picture !re at h] :eel ) a doz5 little girls ) _! cu%ions cr[d+ ne> h]4 ,i ask$ if ! beg9n]s 7 able to e>n some?+ & f\nd !y 7 mak+ ab\t #aj & #ae c5ts a day4 ,illu/ration3 ,,po9t ,,de ,,p>is ,,class ,on d>k days lamps are light$ beh9d bottles fill$ ) wat]1 ! rays pass+ ?r\gh fall 9 spotlights on ! cu%ions ,illu/ration3 ,,w9d+ ,,bobb9s ,,= ,,! ,,*ildr5 ,9 ?is model s*ool1 = all *ildr5 "u sixte5 ye>s ( age ! lace "w alt]nates ) regul> lessons1 z x %\ld ( c\rse1 9 e s*ool4 ,^? above t age may give _! entire day to ! lace4 ,! h\rs = girls betwe5 n9e & ?irte5 are3 f #h to #aa o'clock1 lessons2 f #a3cj to #d o'clock1 lessons aga92 & f #d to #f3cj o'clock1 lace4 ,?is is /ill a sadly long day = gr[+ *ildr51 b x nev]!less regi/]s a mo/ *e]+ improvem5t ov] ! =m] cruelty ( a f> long] day4 ,x has be5 ! ,committee's hope t su* a sy/em z ?is might be in/itut$ ?r\gh\t ,belgium1 & t f x !y might advance to /ill bett] conditions4 ,*ildr5 f ?irte5 to sixte5 come at #g3cj o'clock1 make lace till #aa3cj1 & aga9 f #a3cj to #d3de o'clock4 ,f #e until #f3cj o'clock !y h regul> s*ool lessons--"o wond]s h[ mu* education c be cr[d$ into "o & a half h\rs at ! end ( a day t began at #g3cj o'clock6 ,! girls ov] sixte5 ye>s ( age make lace f #g3cj until #f3cj o'clock4 ,"o ?+ to rememb] always1 9 look+ at ^! di/ress+ figures1 is ! frequ5t numb] ( holidays 9 ,belgium2 ! *ildr5 are sav$ by _! num]\s fte days4 ,x 0 n easy to leave ! tragic & m>vel\s prim>y room2 ! fairy-l f+]s & ! gold5 heads above ! cu%ions4 ,b ,i _h to g on to room numb] "o on ! gr\nd floor :]e !re 0 ano!r ,po9t de ,p>is class1 = girls ab\t twelve ye>s old4 ,9 ! ,abb ,b]raly s*ool ! girls mu/ pass ?r\gh at lea/ ?ree classes 9 ,po9t de ,p>is be=e !y proce$ to ,po9t de ,lille1 to g on f !re to ! 8spid]-web10 or delicate & mo/ difficult ,mal9es4 ,! fir/ /rik+ diff]5ce betwe5 ?is room & ! prim>y1 0 9 ! numb] ( bobb9s pil$ on ! cu%ions--!re 7 hundr$s n[ in/ead ( doz5s4 ,! cu%ions 7 l>g]1 too1 & mo/ ( !m 7 r\nd1 = _m ( ! pupils 7 work+ on coll>s & doily & h&k]*ief edg+s4 ,! designs 7 already complicat$1 "o ( !m repres5t$1 = in/ance1 ! animal symbols ( ! alli$ nations4 ,?is class promotes to ! advanc$ class 9 ,po9t de ,p>is1 :]e ,i f\nd sev]al cu%ions ) ov] #ejj bobb9s heap$ ^u !m1 & girls ( f\rte5 & fifte5 ye>s %ift+ t numb] ) a swiftness n to be foll[$4 ,s9ce ! heavy ra9 0 mak+ see+ difficult1 ! tea*]s mov$ a numb] ( iron /&s 7resembl+ umbrella /&s7 to v>i\s po9ts 9 ! room1 plac+ on top ( ea* /&1 9 ! middle1 a small k]os5e lamp1 &1 ne> ! edge1 a l>ge globul> c>afe1 fill$ ) wat]4 ,! light f ! lamp passes ?r\gh ! bottle to fall ) conc5trat$ & magnify+ effect directly on t spot on ! cu%ion :]e ! "w is 9 progress4 ,! rack may be turn$1 ! bottle rais$ or l[]$1 & usually f\r girls pr(it by ! light f "o lamp4 ,x is a picturesque & primitive sy/em1 :i* _m /ill pref] to ! m mod]n & exp5sive electricity1 because x is an advantage to h ! work+ spot on ! cu%ion ?r[n into high relief1 :ile at ! same "t ! bottle light is s(t] & less tir+ to ! eyes ?an electricity4 ,^! iron /&s & lamps 7 v practical & satisfactory1 b ,i h (t5 se51 9 poor little rooms1 ! bottle set on ! table on a r\gh wood5 block1 ) a rude oil dip 9 a cup propp$ up on bits ( /ick or /one beh9d x to lift x to j ! prop] height2 z ! "w progresses1 ! position ( c\rse mu/ be alt]$4 ,:ile ! girls 7 pull+ _! *airs clos] to ! bottles ,i talk$ ) ! tea*]s ab\t ! place ( ,po9t de ,p>is 9 ! lace _w4 ,!re is no f9e lace1 !y told me1 :i* is s mu* 9 dem& to-day z ,po9t de ,p>is1 = no lace s successfully comb9es durability & beauty4 ,x is m us$ = da9ty l+]ie ?an any o!r v>iety4 ,p>is buy]s seem nev] to be able to secure suffici5t ,po9t de ,p>is1 :i* ?o x 0 *ri/5$ by t city & 0 l>gely produc$ !re dur+ ! #ag? c5tury1 mu/ n[ be suppli$ by ,belgium4 ,its /r5g? dep5ds on its solid hexagonal me%1 always ! te/ ( lace1 :i* is made ) eight cotton ?reads1 usually ( fairly co>se quality4 ,f ?is sub/antial me% may blossom a patt]n ( extreme grace & beauty1 ! closely wov5 flat p>ts or toile1 be+ reliev$ by op5-"w spaces1 or j\rs1 & ! :ole design outl9$ & ?us ?r[n into a k9d ( relief by a heavi] ?read4 ,! roses ( ! ,que5 design1 drawn = ! ,brussels ,committee by ,mlle4 ,br\hon 7:o has s9ce di$71 is "o ( ! lovelie/ ( ! rec5t ones4 ,i saw1 ! o!r day1 a box sc5t$ ) lav5d] & fill$ ) rolls ^u rolls ( ?is rose patt]n lace1 ready = ! day :5 a *teau c be re/or$1 & f9e l95 %eets & pill[ slips ) _! ,po9t de ,p>is edg+s c once aga9 be spread on ! b$s4 ,po9t de ,lille c\ld nev] be successfully us$ = ei!r l+]ie or table or b$ l95 = x is n suffici5tly durable4 ,9 room #c1 girls f f\rte5 to sixte5 ye>s 7 beg9n+ to execute ?is m difficult lace4 ,its cle>1 transp>5t me% orig9at$ 9 ! city f :i* x is nam$1 :]e 9 #aghh !re 7 z _m z #af1jjj wom5 employ$ on x4 ,its fragility results f ! fact t b f\r ?reads 7in/ead ( ! cu/om>y eight ( ,po9t de ,p>is & ,mal9es1 & ( ! "m ( !m all1 ,val5ci5nes7 are us$ 9 twi/+ & braid+ ! me%es4 ,on its light1 cle> me%1 ! designs are n[ (t5 v elegant & free1 ?o ! traditional ,po9t de ,lille edg+ has a /raight bord] & r rigid patt]n4 ,!y are always outl9$ by a heavi] ?read1 z are ! fl[]s ( ! ,po9t de ,p>is & ,mal9es1 b unlike ^! o!r laces1 ! ,po9t de ,lille is *>act]iz$ by little pois1 or peas or dots1 scatt]$ ?r\gh ! me%4 ,x is sometimes confus$ ) ,mal9es because ( ! transp>5cy ( its me%1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is n s delicate z t ( ,mal9es1 nor s difficult to make1 nor1 because ( its few] ?reads1 s solid4 ,"o ( ! mo/ popul> & m solid v>ieties ( ,po9t de ,lille is bett] kn[n z ,po9t d',holl&e1 because x is *iefly sold to ! well-to-d ,dut* peasants = _! h&some bonnets4 ,x is wide & (t5 ( sumptu\s design1 a sole bran* or fl[] frequ5tly furni%+ ! entire w+ ( a bonnet4 ,illu/ration3 ,,po9t ,,de ,,lille1 ,,or ,,po9t ,d',,holl&e2 ,,me% ,,%[+ 8,,esprits0 ,,or ,,dots ,,*>act]i/ic ,,( ,,?is ,,bobb9 ,,lace ,illu/ration3 ,,end ,,( ,a ,,po9t ,,de ,,p>is ,,sc>f ,,ab\t #b ,,y>ds ,,long ,,on ,,:i* ,,colette ,,work$ ,,"o ,,ye> ,9 ! class-room1 ,i w5t directly to a d>k-hair$ ,joseph9e1 ^: cu%ion seem$ to hold ! l>ge/ m\nds ( bobb9s--8,yes1 !re are ov] a ?\s&10 %e admitt$ %yly & smil+ly4 ,! directress came to help h] op5 ! little draw] b5ea? h] r\nd cu%ion1 & to %ake f ! blue pap] a mo/ lovely wide sc>f ) a *>m+ fl[] design4 8,i began x la/ ,janu>y10 %e add$1 8& ,i hope to f9i% x ?is ,janu>y ( #aiai40 ,"o ye> ) a ?\s& bobb9s1 & at be/ #ej c5ts a day = h] "w--:i* 0 s mu* m ?an %e c\ld h made be=e ! w> t %e _h no ?\ght ( compla9+6 ,i wond]$ if ! woman :o w\ld ?r[ ?is filmy fl[]-s[n veil ov] h] %\ld]s w\ld c>e to "k ab\t ! d>k-ey$ ,joseph9e & h] ye> ) ! #a1jjj bobb9s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,abb ,,b]raly ,,s*ool1 ,,colette1 #af ,,ye>s ,,old1 ,,works ,,) #a1jjj ,,bobb9s ,b !re is mu* m beautiful lace ?an ei!r ,po9t de ,p>is or ,po9t de ,lille taught 9 ! ,turnh\t s*ool4 ,! girls pass f ! ,lille room to ,mal9es1 kn[n 9 ! city ( its bir? z ! 8spid]-web ( ,mal9es40 ,no?+ c\ld be m airy & exquisite ?an its delicate hexagonal me%1 mu* m difficult to make ?an ei!r ( ! prec$+ v>ieties because x mu/ be work$ )\t ! aid ( p9s1 ) only ! eye to guide 9 secur+ ! requisite uni=mity & exactness4 ,no lace dem&s great] skill or great] pati5ce2 s9ce 9 addition to ! difficulty ( work+ )\t support+ p9s1 is ! difficulty ( h&l+ ! extremely f9e ?read employ$4 ,! patt]ns are usually ( delicate fl[]s & leaves1 ) op5-"w /it*es introduc$ to add ev] great] lightness to ! :ole4 ,! d5tellires 9 ! ,mal9es room "w *iefly on ins]tions & fl\nces to be us$ = h&k]*iefs or fi*us or da9ty bl\ses1 or p]haps = w$d+ g[ns4 ,! ,committee has giv5 !m1 too1 _m ord]s = ins]ts = table c5t]s or doilies1 s exquisite t "o feels !y %\ld be us$ only "u glass4 ,sc>cely an important family 9 ,belgium b treasures a bit ( old ,mal9es4 ,among my r>e/ pleasures 7 ^? ,i enjoy$1 :5 ! conv]sation turn+ ^u lace1 a fri5d has said3 8,b w\ld y c>e to see my "m's ,mal9es1 or my great1 great-gr&mo!r's80--& %e has br\ght f a brocade box a filmy1 ivory-color$ coll> or fl\nce1 or a sc>f or bonnet1 all ( a brea?-tak+ lovel9ess & delicacy nev] to be reproduc$4 ,i rememb]1 too1 a ,*ri/mas mass & ! m>vel\s fl\nce t fell f b5ea? ! :ite & gold *asuble worn by ,c>d9al ,m]ci] ov] ! sc>let ( 8 robe4 ,x is only 9 ,turnh\t t any consid]able quantity ( ,mal9es is yet made1 & despite all ! ef=ts ( ! ,committee & ( o!r lov]s ( beautiful lace1 !re is little hope t x w live mu* long]4 ,:5 ! old arti/s1 = s !y %\ld be nam$1 die1 few "y wom5 are f\nd will+ /ill to sacrifice _! ye>s to ! spid]-web4 ,! wom5 ( ! ,lace ,committee believe !re is no future "w m important ?an t ( improv+ ! #bjj & m lace s*ools ( _! c\ntry4 ,9 ! lace normal s*ool at ,bruges1 9 ! national s*ool ( design at ,brussels1 ! excell5t ,ne$le ,po9t s*ool at ,zele1 & 9 su* s*ools z ?is "o at ,turnh\t1 !y see ! hope ( ! lace art2 !y urge t ! ,gov]nm5t increase its subsidies to ^! & o!r des]v+ in/itutions4 ,education & ev] bett] education ( ! lace-woman is _! wat*word4 ,,ii ,,c\rtrai ,e>ly ,home ( ,val5ci5nes ,= ye>s ,i _h he>d ( ! blue flax fields ( ! valley ( ! ,lys1 & ( ! season betwe5 ,april & ,septemb]1 :5 along miles ( its c\rse1 ! riv] is fill$ ) boxes float+ ! f9e/ l95 fib] ( ! _w1 ! flax ( ,belgium1 ,nor? ,france & ,holl&1 :i* c be bett] prep>$ 9 its wat]s ?an any:]e else4 ,un=tunately ,i c\ld see x only "u a ,janu>y ra91 b ,monsieur de ,/oop1 a prom95t weav] ( ,c\rtrai1 ! t[n ( #cf1jjj inhabitants :i* is ! valley c5t]1 made ! ,fl&]s fields bloom aga9 z he describ$ to me ! successive /eps :i* lead f !m to ! wov5 l95 8 factory produces--,i %\ld say1 produc$1 = ! ,g]mans left 8 plant1 along ) sev5 o!rs1 an utt] ru94 ,he 0 unable to expla9 & app>5tly no analysis has yet det]m9$1 j :y ! wat]s ( ! ,lys riv] surpass all o!rs 9 _! p[] to rot ! encas+ /raw & g5]ally to cleanse ! flax2 b "o ?+ is cle>1 !y h e/abli%$ ,c\rtrai z a _w m>ket = f9e raw l954 ,sometimes ! /alks ne$ be float$ only two or ?ree days1 sometimes x requires v mu* long] to mac]ate !m1 ! p]iod dep5d+ *iefly on ! wea!r1 & p>ticul>ly on ! temp]ature4 ,illu/ration3 ,,belgian ,,lace ,,me%es 7,plate ,i7 ,aft] ,pi]re ,v]hag5 9 8,la ,d5telle ,belge0 ,all me%es made ) bobb9s3 #a & #d1 ,val5ci5nes1 r\nd me%2 #b1 ,val5ci5nes1 squ>e me%2 #c1 ,val5ci5nes1 me% almo/ r\nd2 #e1 ,*antilly2 #f1 ,old ,fl&]s2 #g1 ,po9t de ,p>is ,illu/ration3 ,,belgian ,,lace ,,me%es 7,plate ,,ii7 ,aft] ,pi]re ,v]hag5 9 8,la ,d5telle ,belge0 ,me%es1 #h to #ab1 made ) bobb9s3 #h1 ,b9*e2 #i1 ,mal9es2 #aj1 ,po9t de ,lille1 made = ,france2 #aa1 ,po9t de ,lille1 de/9$ = ,holl&2 #ab1 ,gauze ,po9t1 made ) ne$le1 us$ 9 ,po9t d',anglet]re2 #ac1 ,brussels ma*9e-made net2 #ad1 ,ord9>y ma*9e-made net4 ,aft] its soak+ & cleans+1 ! l95 fib] />ts aga9 on its j\rney1 ?is "t to ! v>i\s c\ntries :]e x is to be made into ?read & wov5 into tissues4 ,mu* goes to ,engl& & to ,irel&1 to su* firms z ,be? & ,cox4 ,f !re x returns to ,belgium 9 ! =m ( l95 ?read = f9e laces1 q a diff]5t v>iety1 ( c\rse1 f t employ$ 9 sew+4 ,lace ?read1 bo? cotton & l951 may be us$ = sew+1 b nev] sew+-?read = good lace4 ,an outsid] c sc>cely e/imate ! importance ( ! quality ( ! ?read to ! lace-mak]4 ,( two ske9s be>+ ! same numb]1 "o may be supple & easily l$1 :ile ! o!r is brittle & wayw>d4 ,we he> _m /ories ( h[ wom5 us$ to sp5d _! lives 9 damp cell>s1 9 ord] to keep _! ?read moi/ & s(t4 ,i h be5 told sev]al times1 = in/ance1 t a c]ta9 piece ( lace _h be5 made bel[ gr\nd1 because only !re 0 its m>vel\s te*nique possible4 ,:atev] ! degree ( tru? or leg5d 9 ^! ass]tions1 x is kn[n t ! r>e/ laces require c]ta9 atmosph]ic conditions1 & are1 above all1 dep5d5t on a sup]ior f95ess & pliability ( ! ?read4 ,! ,engli% & ,iri% sp9n]ies lead ! _w2 !y produce mo/ ( its lace ?read4 ,"o ( !m2 ! ,coates firm ( ,paisley1 has e/abli%$ 9 ,belgium bran*es 9 :i* ,belgian capital is int]e/$1--at ,g5t are ! filt]ies1 :i* prep>e ?read = weav+1 & at ,alo/ & ,n9ove are ! filatures or sp9n]ies :i* turn out ! f9i%$ sew+ & embroid]y ?read4 ,! cottons & l95s ( ^! mills are too co>se = ! delicate laces2 h[ev]1 dur+ a s+le w> ye>1 ! ,brussels ,committee 0 happy to be able to buy f ,alo/ z mu* z #fjj1jjj francs wor? ( ?read4 ,by "s miracle1 ! ,gh5t filt]ies escap$ ! practically univ]sal ru9 visit$ on mills & factories1 & %\ld be op]at+ be=e peace is sign$1 b = ! sp9n]ies ( ,alo/ & ,n9ove1 ! future is /ill d>k4 ,dur+ two ye>s ! enemy1 feel+ !y might "o day run ! mills :]e !y /ood1 left !m intact1 ?o !y requisition$ _! /ocks ( ?read4 ,!n z !y saw !y might n p]haps be able to cont9ue _! b5efic5t occupation ( ,belgium1 ev5 if !y won ! w>1 !y began to remove ! mill ma*9]y to ,g]many4 ,!y 7 especially ru?less :5 ! mills 7 kn[n to be ( ,engli% or ,fr5* own]%ip4 ,!y /ole ! secrets ( ! factories & f9ally !y deport$ ! workm54 ,^! m5 are scatt]$ ev]y:]e4 ,ev5 if ! ma*9es ( ! factories 7 n completely de/roy$ x w\ld be impossible "u a consid]able "t to reassemble ! skill$ workm5 ess5tial to ! sp9n+ indu/ry4 ,! ,g]mans w und\bt$ly try to capture ! trade1 & to m>ket _! goods1 if !y mu/1 ?r\gh su* neutral c\ntries z ,d5m>k & ,switz]l&4 ,:5 ,i arriv$ at ,c\rtrai1 ,monsieur & 8 family 7 j mov+ back into ! h\se f :i* !y _h be5 eject$4 ,!y apologiz$ = ! room !y s hospitably (f]$ me1 9 :i* ! orig9al b$ _h be5 replac$ by an iron "o !y recogniz$ z hav+ belong$ to an ,engli% family ( ,c\rtrai4 ,! brass trimm+s 7 gone1 & ! mattress _h ( c\rse be5 remov$1 b ,madame _h be5 able to f9d "o /uff$ ) sea-moss = me4 ,! curta9s 7 sla%$1 blocks ( wood nail$ to ! once h&some walls1 !re 7 no lights1 no metal knobs or fixtures ( any k9d1 no s]vice wires left4 ,bel[1 ! cell> _h be5 almo/ fill$ ) concrete to provide ! conqu]or a safe refuge dur+ dang] p]iods4 ,x requires a special k9d ( c\rage to take up life aga9 9 a place l ?is1 b ^! good p said3 8,we c n compla91 we are s mu* bett] (f ?an o!rs1 & at lea/ we h sav$ our heal?2 ) t we c be sure ( be+ able to build aga9 :at !y h de/roy$40 ,f !re ,i w5t to ,b>on de ,be?une1 a connoisseur ( laces1 :o _h be=e ! w> op5$ a lace museum 9 ,c\rtrai1 *iefly = ,val5ci5nes4 ,i f\nd him ill 9 a little h\se 9 ! t[n2 he _h long be=e be5 driv5 f 8 *teau 9 ! suburbs4 ,8 si/]1 :o _h ) great difficulty made h] way f ,l\va91 receiv$ me ) apologies 9 ! mid/ ( a het]og5y ( boxes & packages1 ! few p]sonal possessions !y _h ga!r$ toge!r 9 ! hope ( "s day hav+ a home aga94 ,i 0 n to see ! old ,val5ci5nes & o!r specim5s ( ! fam\s lace days ( ,c\rtrai2 =tunately = 8 museum1 ,monsieur _h succe$$ 9 gett+ !m to ,brussels :]e !y 7 /ill1 to my p]sonal regret1 hidd5 away4 ,h[ev]1 ,i 0 n surpriz$1 = ,i _h be5 unable be=e />t+ = ,fl&]s to see ! celebrat$ collection ( ! ,c9quant5aire ,museum at ,brussels1 = t1 too1 _h be5 successfully secret$4 ,museums are sl[ 9 rehang+ _! treasures4 ,ev5 ?o ! pres5ce ( ! ?ree neutral ,m9i/]s1 ! ,spani%1 ,am]ican & ,dut*1 9 ! capital1 0 suppos$ to be a gu>anty ( protection to ! national collections1 & und\bt$ly x 0 only _! pres5ce t prev5t$ 9 ,belgium :at happ5$ to ! ,museums ( ,nor!rn ,france1 ! ,belgians ) unwe>y+ +5uity conceal$ :at !y c\ld4 ,:5ev] ,i he> ( hidd5 laces1 ,i am rem9d$ ( a morn+ at ,mal9es & a sad little basket conta9+ a f9e collection ( old ,mal9es lace1 ,i saw exhum$4 ,x _h be5 buri$ deep 9 a box1 along ) ! family silv]1 & z ! daught] ( ! "m :o _h worn x took its once lovely fl[]s & webs1 n[ gray & e>?-/a9$1 betwe5 h] f+]s1 !y p[d]$ to du/4 ,monsieur sugge/$ t ,i see ,mlle4 ,mullie1 a lead+ deal] ( ,c\rtrai1 :o /ill h&les a l>ge output ( ,val5ci5nes2 ?o ,c\rtrai1 :i* 0 once a brilliant production c5t]1 is no long] ( great importance4 ,aft] ! ,fr5* ,revolution1 :i* kill$ ,val5ci5nes-mak+ 9 its orig9al home1 x migrat$ to o!r p>ts ( ,nor!rn ,france1 & to ! two ,fl&]s2 to ,ypres1 :]e x enjoy$ an especially happy developm5t1 to ,bruges1 ,gh5t1 ,dixmude1 ,furnes1 ,m591 ,nieuport1 ,pop]+he & else:]e4 ,= a long "t ,gh5t l$ all ^!1 ) ov] #e1jjj work]s li/$ 9 #agef4 ,b />vation wages & successful imitations h told aga9/ ?is1 z aga9/ o!r laces4 ,nev]!less1 9 ! c5sus ( #ahif1 ,bruges 0 /ill cr$it$ ) #b1jjj ,val5ci5nes work]s1 & ,pop]+he ) #ejj1 :ile !re 7 scatt]$ gr\ps ( consid]able importance 9 a great numb] ( ! villages ( ,we/]n1 & "s ( ,ea/]n ,fl&]s4 ,c\rtrai & ! ne>by villages :]e ! lace is actually made1 /ill /&1 ?o _m build+s h be5 de/roy$1 b :ile h] p 7 n =c$ to become refugees1 lace-mak+ 0 s]i\sly int]rupt$2 work]s 7 evict$ f _! homes & _! s*ools4 ,& !y suff]$ fur!r because !re 0 sc>cely any ?read left1 ! deal]s (t5 ask+ z mu* z #bj c5ts = ( a y>d ( lace ?read1 ab\t ! previ\s value ( ! same l5g? 9 f9i%$ lace4 ,"u ^! conditions x 0 especially easy to see ! importance ( ! ef=ts ( ! ,brussels ,lace ,committee1 :i* furni%$ ?read at ! normal price1 & gave m = ! lace ?an 0 ev] (f]$ be=e ! w>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bobb9 ,,laces ,fir/ column3 ,mal9es1 ,mal9es1 ,po9t de ,p>is1 ,po9t de ,p>is1 ,val5ci5nes 7squ>e me%7 ,middle column3 ,po9t de ,p>is ,?ird column3 ,fir/ ?ree1 ,val5ci5nes2 f\r?1 ,po9t de ,p>is ,illu/ration3 ,,cu%ion ,,cov] ,,repres5t+ ,,belgium',s ,,gratitude ,,to ,,am]ica ,,= ,,bread ,po9t de ,p>is lace comb9$ ) l954 ,! l[] "r-h& c5t]piece %[s ! rose design1 emblem ( ,que5 ,elizabe? ,un=tunately ! ,g]man facteurs 7ag5ts = lace deal]s7 work$ clev]ly "h1 too1 z 9 o!r di/ricts4 ,!y _h always pl5ty ( requisition$ ?read to (f]1 & succe$$ 9 buy+ consid]able lace1 = :i* !y (f]$ high & v>y+ prices4 ,! y\ng] wom5 ( ! ,c\rtrai region h be5 rapidly giv+ up ,val5ci5nes to make ,cluny1 :i* pays bett]4 ,a ,val5ci5nes beg9n]1 = example1 mu/ "w a ye> z an appr5tice1 dur+ :i* "t %e is able to e>n sc>cely m ?an five c5ts a day4 ,! wages ( ! good work]s h advanc$1 b unless !y c be increas$ ev5 m1 !re are few :o w cont9ue to make ?is difficult lace4 ,aft] #fj ye>s' exp]i5ce 9 lace1 & latt]ly %e has employ$ #a1jjj wom51 ,mlle4 ,mullie says t "o is =tunate1 among #e1jjj work]s1 to f9d five :o c execute a sample f a draw+ n already int]pret$ or prick$ = ! work]4 ,be=e ! w> !re 7 two good piqueuses 9 ,ypres to :om ,c\rtrai s5t h] difficult patt]ns1 b only "o ( ^! /ill lives4 ,9 peace-"t ! great] "p ( ?is ,c\rtrai lace goes to ,p>is 7"s is s5t to ,new ,york71 :i* is all "o ne$s to say 9 tribute to its patt]n & its quality4 ,p>is kn[s lace bett] ?an any o!r city 9 ! _w2 %e accepts only ! be/4 ,we 7 talk+ ( ! #fj p] c5t4 duty ! ,unit$ ,/ates ,gov]nm5t levies on import$ laces1 & ! h>m x works to ! ,belgian indu/ry4 8,t is our greate/ disc\ragem5t1 b !re are o!r ,gov]nm5t /upidities10 ,mlle4 ,mullie smil$4 8,france1 = in/ance1 *>ges #aj francs on a kilo ( ,val5ci5nes1 & ! same am\nt on an equal weight ( ,cluny2 ! ,val5ci5nes may be wor? sev]al ?\s&1 & ! ,cluny ?ree or f\r francs60 ,! true old ,val5ci5nes me%1 call$ 8,rond10 is /ill made at ,c\rtrai1 z well z at ,bruges2 ! mod]n ,val5ci5nes commonly has a squ>e me%1 :i* is pref]r$ by _m connoisseurs1 s9ce x is m transp>5t & sets ! fl[]s (f m /rik+ly4 8,:e!r or n y pref] x to ! squ>e1 y mu/ see ! traditional r\nd ,val5ci5nes me%10 ,mlle4 ,mullie said1 & we />t$ (f 9 ! ra9 = a gr\p ( t9y brick h\ses1 ! ,gott%uis5 7,god's h\ses7 :i* ! city furni%es free to c]ta9 old p4 ,be=e we rea*$ ! fir/1 ,i saw two :ite heads ne> a w9d[1 b5d+ ov] cu%ions2 & once inside1 on ^? cu%ions1 l5g?s ( sn[y ,val5ci5nes ( ! old r\nd me%1 ( an admirable regul>ity & lovel9ess4 ,^! two wom5 7 bo? ov] #gj ye>s old1 & !y sat be=e _! bobb9s1 twi/+ & braid+ ! eight ?reads ( ! me% z !y _h twi/$ & braid$ !m = ov] a half c5tury1 & /ill *e]fully hop+ t !y might "s day w9 m ?an #ae or #bj c5ts a day = _! "w4 8,n[ we mu/ h m10 !y said g5tly1 8because ?read & oil are s mu* m exp5sive ?an !y 7 be=e ! w>40 ,9 ! next h\se1 ! old woman ^: si/] 0 ill c\ld af=d no light at all2 :5 dusk fell %e _h to leave h] bobb9 m\nds & h] me% & fl[]s & g to b$--:at else c\ld %e d )\t coal or oil8 ,x 0 ! la/ day ( #aiah1 & ,i decid$ t ,mrs4 ,bay>d ,h5ry ( ,philadelphia1 :o _h s5t me a little money to use z ,i *ose1 w\ld be happy to give to ^! sweet1 fai?ful wom5 & _! ?irte5 neighbors1 c&les & oil z hope symbols = ! ,new ,ye>4 ,i left h] gift ) ,mlle4 ,mullie4 ,x 0 already v late1 & ,i _h n "t to g to ,wevelghem & ,gulleghem1 two ( ! mo/ important lace-villages contribut+ to ,c\rtrai4 ,mlle4 ,mullie 0 fac+ ! future ) c\rage4 8,i am sure10 %e said1 8t ,peat1 f :om ,i h b\ght ?read = =ty ye>s1 w n =get me1 & t ,i may be able to c\nt on a %ipm5t f ,engl& at a j price z soon z any?+ c come ?r\gh4 ,t ,i h be5 cut (f dur+ f\r ye>s w make no diff]5ce4 ,i %all write1 too1 to a fri5d 9 ,france1 & f ,puy ,i may h a few ske9s4 ,! "q ( p9s & bobb9s is s]i\s--!y seem to h disappe>$1 & "o c n />t a work] on less ?an a doz5 bobb9s4 ,^? ,i h ?us f> succe$$ 9 f9d+ co/ #ie c5times ! doz51 z aga9/ ! #bh c5times ( pre-w> times4 ,!re seem lit]ally to be no p9s4 ,h[ev]1 despite ev]y?+1 ,i1 at lea/1 hope to see my ?\s& wom5 at "s n too di/ant "t aga9 busy ov] _! cu%ions4 ,a few h already s\ght me out to let me "k !y are ready1 wait+ only = ! preci\s ?read4 ,i regret inf9itely ! pass+ ( ! f9e #8,val1' b we %all cont9ue to produce z mu* z we c1 & at any rate we %all try unceas+ly to raise ! /&>d ( ! ,clunys & ,tor*ons40 ,,iii ,,?\r\t-,,?ielt-,,wyngh5e ,9 ! ,important ,bobb9 ,lace ,area ,on a spr+-l ,saturday 9 e>ly ,janu>y1 ,i left ,bruges by ! ,?\r\t road = ,?ielt4 ,z ,i turn$ beyond ! ,porte1 ,i f\nd myself spe$+ t[>d ! great arms ( "o ( ^? ,dut* w9dmills t s frequ5tly1 9 ! l[l&s1 close ! long vi/a4 ,! f>!r ,i rode into ! ,?\r\t region1 ! m x seem$ ! lovelie/ bit ( ,we/]n ,fl&]s ,i _h yet se54 ,! g5tle outl9es ( ! l[ r$ brick f>mh\ses foll[$ ) satisfy+ h>mony ! l&scape cont\rs4 ,f>m succe$$ f>m 9 swift succession1 small f>ms1 :]e e squ>e foot ( soil 0 gre5 ) spr\t+ gra9 or vegetables1 & 9 ! morn+ sunlight ! ?ickly s[n cottages %one l jewels on ! pla94 ,p9k & :ite g]aniums blossom$ beh9d _m ( ! qua9t w9d[s1 & ,i knew t ne> !m gr&mo!rs1 or mo!rs1 or daught]s 7or possibly all ?ree toge!r7 7 sitt+ be=e _! cu%ions1 & f p9 to p9 7 twi/+ & braid+ ,cluny & ,du*esse1 ! *>act]i/ic laces ( ?is section4 ,?is 0 an excell5t day = lace-mak+ ) its sun%9e ( summ]4 ,to ! s\? & ea/ ( ! badly %ell$ t[n ( ,?\r\t1 ,i visit$ ! di/ricts ( ,iseghem1 ,?ielt & ,wyngh5e1 all celebrat$ = _! guipures4 ,guipure1 a r vague comm]cial t]m cov]+ two widely diff]5t gr\ps ( lace1 may be loosely def9$ z bobb9 lace )\t a me% base4 ,"o gr\p ( guipures includes ! ,clunys 7nam$ aft] ! ,cluny museum 9 ,p>is because !y employ _m old ,go?ic designs7 :i* are made 9 "o l5g? or piece4 ,!y closely resemble ! m common ,tor*ons1 surpass+ !m1 h[ev]1 9 f95ess & firmness ( execution1 & 9 brilliancy ( design--! di/+ui%+ connect+ b>s ( ,cluny (t5 ?r[ ! figures into conspicu\s relief4 ,:ile ?is "o-piece lace is usually made ( ! co>s] ?reads1 f9e l95 or cotton1 or ev5 silk ?read1 is also employ$4 ,9 ! second gr\p ( guipures are ^? made 9 sep>ate small bits1 or details1 :i* are aft]w>d jo9$ to make ! fl\nce or piece1 ! mo/ common ( ^! v>ieties be+ ,fl&]s & ,du*esse4 ,9 ! s*ools ( ,?ielt & ,wyngh5e all ! k9ds are taught4 ,because !y are made ( co>s] ?read & !re=e m quickly ?an su* laces z ,val5ci5nes or ,ne$le ,po9t1 are less tax+ to ! eyes1 & pay bett]1 ^! guipures h ga9$ gr\nd 9 almo/ e lace c5t] 9 ,belgium1 & (t5 ?reat5 ! v exi/5ce ( ! f9] laces4 ,if x _h n be5 = ! lead]%ip ( ! 8,amies de la ,d5telle10 ( a few ( ! m intellig5t & dis9t]e/$ deal]s1 & above all ( c]ta9 conv5ts to :om ,belgium owes ! pres]vation ( _m ( h] f9e/ designs & v>ieties1 x is a "q if any b ! few rema9+ old wom51 :o = =ty or fifty ye>s h pref]r$ to foll[ "o patt]n1 w\ld /ill produce ! old me%es & po9ts4 ,mu* hope n[ c5t]s 9 ! corrective influ5ce ( ! rec5tly f\nd$ ,normal ,s*ool at ,bruges & ( ! o!r s*ools ( ,belgium1 b1 despite all ! ef=ts ( ^! comb9$ gr\ps1 delicate laces l ! ,mal9es h be5 fa/ disappe>+4 ,! little f>mh\se1 if "o c call two rooms a h\se1 ,i visit$ on ! edge ( ,?ielt demon/rat$ cle>ly :at is happ5+4 ,x 0 ,saturday aft]noon & ! "m ( ! l>ge family ( boys at play on ! neat brick pa? outside1 0 scrubb+ ! til$ floor1 mov+ ! small baskets ( potatoes & heaps ( tobacco leaves & sabots & ! w9t] sl$ f place to place z %e proce$$4 ,! socks to be d>n$1 ea* already a fanta/ic pat*work1 7 pil$ on ! w9d[-sill1 :]e !re 0 room beside = a g]anium & a f]n4 ,! /ove & ! table 7 also cr[d$ into ?is1 ! g5]al liv+-room1 :i* despite all attempts to arrange ?+s1 boa/$ sc>cely "o un9cumb]$ foot ( floor space4 ,h[ev]1 ov] ne> ! w9d[ ) its two plants1 7 ! cu/om>y *air & ! cu%ion1 & ! girl ( sixte51 absorb$ 9 h] lace1 q oblivi\s ( ! wat] h] "m 0 spla%+ ab\t h] feet4 ,! adjo9+ room 0 simil>ly cr[d$2 x _h to s]ve z b$room = ?is l>ge family4 ,!re 0 ! mantel-piece ) ! famili> r[ ( bright plates & vases1--! place :]e ! family's art s5se f9ds conc5trat$ expression4 ,=tunately1 ?is room1 too1 _h a w9d[ ) o!r plants1 & be=e x sat ! gr&mo!r 9 h] black cap & %awl1 :o1 z ,i ent]$1 0 j slipp+ h] batt]$ eye-glasses into ! little side draw] b5ea? h] cu%ion4 ,%e smil$ a fri5dly greet+1 & uncov]$ h] lace1 a filmy fl\nce ( ,val5ci5nes ab\t f\r in*es wide1 firm & regul>1 & ( a good old design4 ,%e _h be5 mak+ ,val5ci5nes all h] life2 %e w\ld make x to ! end4 ,%e 0 delight$ to %[ me h[ %e twi/$ f\r ?reads to =m "o side ( ! hexagon ( ! me%1 & f\r to =m ! opposite1 & ! union po9ts :]e ! eight met4 ,!n %e held up a l5g? ( h] lace & told u t a facteur 7neighborhood buy] = a l>ge bus9ess h\se7 _h be5 !re j be=e we arriv$1 to try to buy h] fl\nce at n9e francs ! aune1 :i* w\ld be r\ghly1 ab\t #b4ej a met]4 ,! committee has be5 giv+ h] #ai fr4 #ej c4 7#c4ij7 = ! same am\nt1 & %e ask$ anxi\sly1 ?o /ill smil+ly1 if %e might n cont9ue to hope = ! committee price1 ev5 ?o ! w> _h /opt4 ,x is pa!tic1 day aft] day1 to he> t "q repeat$1 & n yet to be c]ta9 ( ! answ]4 ,h[ev]1 "o c always reply tru?fully1 t ! wom5 ( ! 8,fri5ds ( ! ,lace0 w "w unceas+ly n only to hold wages :]e !y are1 b to advance !m4 ,i turn$ f ?is delicate lace to ! gr&daught]'s cu%ion--%e 0 mak+ guipure de ,cluny1 ( co>se l95 ?read4 ,m>ie's patt]n happ5$ to be a good "o & %e 0 work+ swiftly & ev5ly1 sure ( a fair day's wage4 ,"h1 !n1 0 a sugge/ive contra/1 & h[ev] "o may regret x1 x exi/s 9 ! l>ge majority ( lace-mak+ h\seholds 9 ,belgium1 & is only to be expect$4 ,x is b ! des]v$ p5alty ( a pa/ & pres5t economic bl9dness or call\sness4 ,:]e !y are n mak+ ,cluny1 ! y\ng] wom5 ( ?is di/rict give _! "t to ord9>y v>ieties ( guipure :i* !y call ,bruges & ,milan1 or ,po9t de ,bruges1 & ,po9t de ,milan4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bobb9 ,,laces 7#a7 ,tor*on 7#b7 ,cluny 7#c7 ,old ,flemi% 7#d7 ,b9*e ,illu/ration3 ,,table ,,clo? ,,%[+ ,,arms ,,( ,,! ,,allies ,cut l95 ) squ>es ( ,v5ise surr\nd$ by filet & cluny4 ,v5ise made ) ! ne$le1 cluny ) bobb9s ,:ile ,i _h be5 wat*+ ! ,val5ci5nes & ,cluny1 ! "m ( ! h\sehold1 :o _h ! mop ( fuzzy d>k r$ hair (t5 se5 9 ?is region1 _h hurri$ h] scrubb+ to an end1 & wip+ h] h&s on h] blue apron1 0 ready to uncov] h] own cu%ion4 ,i look$ at ! *app$1 r\gh sk9 & ! h&s us$ to pull+ we$s & digg+ potatoes & scrubb+1 & realiz$ t !y c\ld n possibly hold a piece ( f9e sew+--! ?read w\ld cat* ) e /it*--& yet t %e c\ld turn f h] scrubb+-bru% to ! little wood5 bobb9s 7h] f+]s ne$ n t\* ! ?read7 & proce$ )\t difficulty on a sn[y bit ( ,val5ci5nes--= happily %e 0 foll[+ h] "m 9 ,val5ci5nes4 ,!re are ?ree s*ools 9 ,?ielt1 ( :i* ! conv5t s*ools de la ,*>it & de l',esprance are ! m important4 ,i w5t fir/ to ! ,conv5t de la ,*>it1 ) ,mlle4 van d] ,graeht1 :o has ?r\gh\t ! w> be5 devot$ to ! work]s & ! lace4 ,?o ,?ielt lay 9 ! dang] zone1 %e refus$ to *oose a saf] city1 rema9+ to %>e ! "w ( h] fa!r1 :o add$ to 8 ardu\s duties z adm9i/rator ( ! arrondisem5t1 ^? ( ! repres5tative ( ! ,brussels ,lace ,committee4 ,two weeks be=e ! end1 h[ev]1 ! ,g]mans drove ^! patriots f _! h\se 7?ree bombs f ,alli$ a]oplanes _h already fall5 on x7 & !y 7 d5i$ ! exp]i5ce !y _h be5 wait+ = ?r\gh\t all ! ye>s1 t ( see+ ! ,alli$ soldi]s m>* into ,?ielt4 ,"o ( ! ,g]mans 0 frank en\gh to tell !m t !y 7 be+ =c$ away *iefly to prev5t _! 8assi/+0 at t deliv]ance4 ,imm$iately aft] ! armi/ice !y return$1 & in/all$ !mselves com=tably once m on ! fir/ floor ( _! almo/ ro(less h\se4 ,:5 ,i arriv$ !y _h n yet come 9 f _! fir/ inspection trip ( ! communes j beh9d ! l9es1 & ,i 0 welcom$ by pretty1 br[n-hair$ ,flavia & h] six-ye>-old ,alb]t4 ,flavia's husb& _h be5 kill$ at ! front dur+ ! fir/ mon?s ( ! w>1 & %e _h s]v$ 9 ?is h\sehold ?r\gh\t all its t]rible duration4 ,z ,i look$ f ! w9d[s ( ! draw+-room1 /ill intact1 across ! re> g>d51 to ! mass ( wreckage t 0 once ! neighbor+ h\se1 ,i und]/ood ! feel+ ( ! impot5ce ( all ef=t produc$ by ! casualness ( ^! bombs1 t sp>e "h to /rike !re1 & :y 9 ! w> "o inevitably becomes a fatali/4 ,& z ,i look$ across ! g>d51 ,flavia told me some?+ ( h] exp]i5ce ) ! ?irte5 ,g]mans :o took ov] ! h\se :5 !y drove h] ma/] out & ( h[ :5ev] ! %ell+ 0 sev]e !y ran to ! cell>s1 & sev]al times tri$ to p]suade h] to g ) !m b %e always refus$4 8,i pref]r$10 %e said1 8to die alone ) my little boy 9 ! op51 to risk+ be+ kill$ ) !m 9 ! cell>40 ,on ,sunday1 ,octob] #ac1 betwe5 #aa & #b o'clock1 sixty %ells fell on ,?ielt1 & all day ,monday & ! foll[+ days !y cont9u$ to fall1 until on ,saturday ! #ai?1 ! ,fr5* m>*$ into ! t[n4 ,to add to ! horror ( ?is p]iod1 p 7 dy+ 9 l>ge numb]s ( influ5za4 ,flavia told me ( ! /reet-sweep] :o di$ at ! corn] ) h] broom 9 h] h&4 ,by "s miracle %e & h] little boy escap$ bo? %ell & pe/il5ce1 & :5 ,monsieur & 8 daught] return$ !y f\nd h] scrubb+ & re/or+ z be/ %e c\ld aft] ! flight ( ! enemy4 ,?is 0 "o ( ! c5t]s :]e dur+ ! f\r t]ror-ye>s a bright beacon burn$ = all ! surr\nd+ t]ritory1 = x 0 "h t ! p ( ! villages & ! conv5ts c\ld br+ _! laces = ! committee1 kn[+ !y w\ld be accept$ & paid =4 ,9 #aiaf1 ! ,b>on van d] ,graeht 0 enc\rag+ ! "w 9 no less ?an sev5te5 communes & ( z _m z #c1ejj lace-work]s4 ,flavia smil$ z %e rememb]$ some?+--8,:at good luck1 !re w be a si/] com+ ?is v day ab\t #b o'clock1 ) h] laces40 ,z %e said ?is1 ! door op5$--fa!r & daught] 7 back f _! pony-c>t exp$ition to ! front-l9es4 ,monsieur 0 /ill visibly mov$ by :at he _h se51 ev5 aft] 8 own f\r ye>s' exp]i5ce4 8,madame10 he said1 8,i c n describe my emotion on go+ ab\t 9 ^? little %att]$ villages j beh9d ! l9es1 :]e ! wom5 h insi/$ on rema9+1 & :]e day by day1 & ye> aft] ye>1 !y h sat calmly be=e _! cu%ions mak+ lace1 :ile ! %ells bur/ be=e & beh9d !m4 ,aft] su* a victory z !irs1 ! lace indu/ry ( ,belgium mu/ live40 ,mademoiselle gave me ! li/ ( ! badly de/roy$ villages1 & !n ! names ( ^? :i* _h suff]$ less & t1 ) ,?ielt1 produc$ ! mo/ lace4 ,among !m 7 ,pit?am & ,ardois 7:i* specializes 9 old ,bruges72 ,ruyssel$e 7) an excell5t s*ool = ,val5ci5nes71 ,a]seele1 & ,m>ia ,loop4 ,?ielt1 itself1 _h at ! beg9n+ ( #aiai ab\t #cjj work]s1 ( :om a hundr$ 7 9 ! s*ool ( ! conv5t de l',esprance1 & ab\t #fj 9 ! ,conv5t de la ,*>it4 ,!re _h be5 times ( great disc\ragem5t2 9 "o p>ticul>ly d>k h\r 9 #aiag _m ( ! work]s _h turn$ back to ! old facteurs1 or village ag5ts1 = help1 & un=tunately "s ( ^! sold to ! ,g]mans1 :o 7 con/antly try+ to w9 !m by (f]+ l>ge sums = _! laces4 ,s9ce he 0 "u no obligation to turn ov] a fixt wage to ! work]s1 ! facteur might reap any pr(it he c\ld secure4 ,we ab&on$ ?is unpleasant subject to talk ( ! s*ools1 ! hope ( ! future1 & aft] lun* ,i w5t ) ,mlle4 to visit "o ( ^!1 ! ,conv5t de la ,*>it1 on ! edge ( ! t[n1 ) its #fj girls1 :o h suppli$ ! committee ) mu* old ,fl&]s & ,cluny4 ,ev5 ?o ?is 0 a ,saturday aft]noon 9 w9t]1 #de ( ! #fj *airs 7 occupi$ by girls betwe5 #ab & #af4 ,"o r>ely f9ds a girl ov] #ah 9 ! s*ools2 once %e has le>n$ h] trade1 %e pref]s to "w at home ) ! "m & gr&mo!r4 ,un=tunately 9 ?is1 :i* is consid]$ a 8good0 s*ool = ,fl&]s1 ,i f\nd ! longe/ h\rs ,i _h yet met1 t is1 summ] h\rs4 ,9 w9t]1 because ( ! poor light1 !y are %ort]4 ,x seems unbelievable1 b ! si/]s told me t 9 summ] ! *ildr5 come at #e3cj o'clock & "w until #h at night--) only ?ree half-h\rs = recreation--"o at #h3cj o'clock1 "o at #ab1 & "o at #d4 ,a day ( #ac h\rs = gr[+ *ildr51 & girls :o are matur+6 ,x is su* cruel conditions z ^! t ! ,committee h done _! be/ to ameliorate4 ,9 ?is case1 ?o ! h\rs are /ill crim9al1 ! wages h be5 improv$4 ,h[ev]1 8improv$ wages0 leave mu* /ill to be f\ght =4 ,i talk$ ) a girl ( twelve 9 ! front r[1 an appr5tice1 & f\nd t %e e>ns betwe5 #dj & #ej c5times a day1 or ab\t #aj c5ts = h] #ac h\rs' labor1 :i* ?o x is almo/ d\ble :at %e c\ld h e>n$ be=e ! w>1 is nev]!less only #aj c5ts p] day4 ,! ,committee 0 able to add ! w>-"t subsidy ( #bj p] c5t4 to ?is4 ,naturally1 ! le>n] c n yet make :at is call$ good lace1 & un=tunately h] p>5ts are (t5 only too cont5t to h h] br+ home #aj c5ts a day4 ,! old]1 m exp]i5c$ girls1 7 e>n+ f "o to two francs a day1 or f #bj to #dj c5ts1 t is1 on a summ]'s day or full day4 ,monsieur told me lat] t 9 8 region if ! wage ( ! good work] c be rais$ to #ej c5ts p] day1 %e w be able to live1 & w be cont5t to rema9 at home be=e h] lace cu%ion r ?an to g to ! %oe & cotton factories ( ,?ielt4 ,! advanc$ pupils 7 eag] to uncov] _! treasure4 ,ne>ly all ( !m _h protect$ _! r\nd cu%ions ) a circul> piece ( ?ick blue glaz$ pap]1 ) a hole 9 ! middle4 ,?r\gh ! hole !y work$ ) _! r heavy *]ry wood bobb9s1 on ! me%less guipures ( ,cluny & ,bruges & ,fl&]s1 :i* ?is s*ool pref]s4 ,sev]al 7 f9i%+ ! coll> & cuff sets ( r co>se b pretty ,bruges ) its *>act]i/ic rose & trefoil1 se5 s commonly 9 %op w9d[s1 & :i* are especially effective :5 worn ) cotton or l95 frocks4 ,! ,guipure de ,fl&res pupils 7 mak+ squ>e insets = table & tray-clo?s ( simple1 geometric designs4 ,two girls 7 at "w on :at !y call$ ,guipure de ,milan1 ( a wide spread+ bran* & fl[] patt]n4 ,h[ev]1 ! mo/ int]e/+ lace 0 n ! guipure b ! ,po9t de ,fl&res or ,old ,fl&]s1 ) its elaborate me% base1 j n[ exp]i5c+ an int]e/+ & enc\rag+ revival1 9 :i* ! zeal\s ,b>on van d] ,graeht felt ,?ielt %\ld assi/4 ,a half-doz5 old] girls 7 execut+ doily & table c5t] r\nds 9 ?is lace1 aft] ! ,committee's v popul> ,swan patt]n4 ,!y 7 us+ a fairly co>se l95 ?read1 & work+ ! ri*1 solid me% ) eight bobb9s4 8,:oev] w\ld make ! ,old ,fl&]s me% mu/ be will+ to play a game ( pati5ce10 ,madame _h once said to me4 ,! dull1 pla9 wov5 p>ts ( ! patt]n are brilliantly outl9$ by a /ill co>s] ?read1 & 9 ! 8j\rs0 or op5-"w spaces are ! mu* lov$ sn[-balls *>act]i/ic ( ,b9*e lace4 ,because ( its comb9$ /r5g? & beauty1 !re c\ld h>dly be a m successful lace = g5]al use ?an ?is ,old ,fl&]s1 sometimes call$ ,antik4 ,:ile x 0 once ! mo/ g5]ally made & mo/ celebrat$ ( ,flemi% bobb9 laces 7x 0 kn[n 9 e "p ( ,fl&]s 9 #aejj71 x _h be5 almo/ =gott5 = g5]ations1 b ev5 ?o x has be5 little rememb]$ = "s "t1 ,old ,fl&]s may be said nev] to h di$4 ,9 c]ta9 regions1 t ( ,antw]p = in/ance1 x is f\nd cont9u\sly on ! g>m5ts ( prie/s4 ,x is ! lace t rema9$ always at ! base & f :i* ! o!r bobb9 laces1 f "t to "t1 sprang4 ,x is to be hop$ t ! ,committee's laudable ef=t to revive x w be> increas+ rew>ds4 ,?o !y c\ld und]/& no ,fr5*1 & ,i knew only a few words ( ,flemi%1 ^! little & big girls f\nd mu* amusem5t 9 my visit1 & 9 my inability to foll[ _! swift f+]s4 ,^! 7 f+]s accu/om$1 too1 to we$ ! fields & to dig potatoes1 = !re is practically no lace made "h dur+ ! weeks ( ,augu/ & ,septemb] :5 ! potato-crop is ga!r$4 ,! ,si/]s ( ,*>ity1 tea*]s 9 ?is s*ool1 7 poor !mselves1 z _! surr\nd+s te/ifi$4 ,!y _h no f9e c>v$ oak armoire = _! laces1 b br\ght f "s safe place a t9 box1 l an ord9>y bread-box1 9 :i* 7 ! da9ty :ite packets ready to be s5t to ! ,committee at ,brussels4 ,z !y 7 exhibit+ piece aft] lovely piece1 !y unfold$ ! swan patt]n doily r\nds ( ,old ,fl&]s1 & aft] a mom5t's hesitation1 ,si/] ,a4 v5tur$1 8,!re is "o ?+ y might d = u1 ,madame2 :5 y return to ,brussels1 c\ld y n tell ! ,committee t :ile ! small swan doily r\nds are suffici5tly paid1 ?is l>ge c5t]piece r\nd is n8 ,x is our fault 9 e/imat+2 we did n realize h[ long x w\ld take to make x40 ,i c\ld n resi/ teas+ !m a little & repli$ t ,i %\ld be delight$ to c>ry ! message 7 x n = ! fact t x 0 precisely ?is set ( swan doilies 7z x 07 t ! ,committee _h giv5 me = ,*ri/mas4 8,%\ld y l me to tell !m10 ,i ask$1 8t !y _h n paid en\gh = my pres5t80 ,!y 7 cov]$ ) confusion1 z ,i expect$ !y w\ld be1 & !n h[ !y laugh$1 ^? frail little si/]s4 8,mais1 ,madame1 t w\ld inde$ be difficult2 we w write2 we _h =gott54 ,non1 ,madame1 y c]ta9ly c\ld n tell !m t6 ,b we c write lett]s n[ :5ev] we wi%--c we n8 ,"o loses ! habit 9 f\r ye>s40 ,& !n !y laugh$ aga9 all toge!r4 ,x 0 already late :5 ,i rea*$ ,wyngh5e4 ,! %ell-pitt$ roads ( we/]n ,fl&]s _h made all my travel+ difficult & ,i c\ld n see ,mlle4 ,slock1 "o ( ! r>e lace deal]s :o has look$ beyond h] imm$iate purse & has tak5 "t to revive old models & inv5t new ones1 seek+ 9 e way to raise ! /&>d ( ! pres5t production 9 all h] region1 :i* is *iefly devot$ to ,cluny4 ,i _h n "t to /op 9 ! village1 b hurri$ on beyond x to a *e]ful r$ brick manor h\se set 9 a =e/1 ! home ( ! ,burgoma/] ( ,wyngh5e1 ^: wife has be5 ! untir+ly devot$ repres5tative ( ! ,committee = ?is section4 ,z we sat at tea toge!r1 ne> ! cons]vatory w9d[s1 :]e we c\ld look ?r\gh ! nak$ g>d5 trees across a mead[ to ! =e/ beyond1 ! ,burgoma/] told me ( ! morn+ :5 !y /ood at ^! w9d[s1 aft] ! %ells _h be5 fall+ = days all ab\t !m1 wait+ & wat*+1 sc>cely d>+ to brea!1 & ( h[ z !y wat*$1 he saw ?r\gh ! trees ( ! =e/ :at look$ l a br[n %ad[1 b ! br[n %ad[ mov$1 & !n runn+ across ! mead[1 :]e he _h always believ$ !y mu/ break ?r\gh1 came ! ,belgian soldi]s1 ! soldi]s ( deliv]ance4 8,i "k our he>ts /opt beat+2 we /ood *ok+1 incapable ( motion1 z we wat*$ !m come--/ill unable to believe aft] f\r ye>s ( wait+40 ,we 7 sil5t = a few m9utes1 !n we began to talk ( ! lace4 ,z 8 wife turn$ to get ! li/ ( h] villages1 ,i ask$ if ! ,g]mans _h attempt$ to get h] work]s away f h]4 8,!y _h _! ag5ts "h1 z ev]y:]e10 %e answ]$1 8& ,i regret to admit t "o ( _! mo/ successful ones 0 a ,belgian woman1 :o _h be5 a facteur1 or lace ga!r] = l>g] h\ses1 be=e ! w>4 ,:5 ! ,g]mans (f]$ h] l>ge prices1 %e cons5t$ to s]ve !m4 ,if %e _h be5 sacrific+ h]self = :at %e believ$ to be ! good ( ! work]s1 we might h =giv5 h]1 b x 0 obvi\s t %e 0 n--%e is pretty & likes pretty clo!s--,voil t\t6 ,along ) sev]al o!r disloyal citiz5s1 %e 0 imprison$ ! o!r day1 b un=tunately aft] only tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 succe$$ 9 free+ h]self4 ,h[ev]1 ! p w nev] =get t %e traffick$ ) ! enemy40 ,i _h kn[n ( ! ,g]man lace organization fir/ ?r\gh see+ ! huge sign1 8,allgeme9e ,spitz5 ,c5trale0 7,c5tral lace depot71 j across f our ,c4 ,r4 ,b4 (fices4 ,& z soon z ,i got 9 t\* ) ! loyal "w ( ! wom5 ( ! ,belgian ,lace ,committee1 ,i 0 daily he>+ ( ?is or t attempt ( _! oppressors to capture ! designs & ! output ( ! c\ntry4 ,!y might succe$ ) ! simpl]1 m helpless work]s1 :o because ( _! great mis]y may be =giv5 = sell+ to !m--& ) ! des]t]s & activi/s--b !y 7 daily defeat$ by ! ,committee patriots4 ,i 0 ?or\ghly int]e/$ to he>1 n[1 f "o ( ! patriots1 t ! idea ( ! ,g]man 8,lace ,control0 possibly _h its bir? 9 ,wyngh5e4 ,9 ,febru>y1 #aiae1 a c]ta9 ,freih]r ,von ,ripp5haus5 0 /ation$ at ,wyngh5e4 ,he _h ) him 8 "y ,am]ican wife--!y _h be5 m>ri$ b a %ort "t1 & ! p ( ! village 7 k9d en\gh to say !y believ$ %e 0 n ,g]man by conviction6 ,h[ev] t may be1 ! ,von ,ripp5haus5s requisition$ lodg+s 9 ! h\se ( "o ( ! lace buy]s ( ,wyngh5e1 & 9 ?is h\se !y naturally discov]$ mu* reg>d+ ! lace situation1 ! lack ( ?read1 & ! di/ress ( ! work]s1 & ( ! ,belgian sy/em by :i* ! facteur furni%es ! ?read to ! work] & buys ! f9i%$ products1 :i* he 9 turn sells to a big lace h\se1 reap+ :at pr(it he c z int]m$i>y4 ,frau von ,ripp5haus51 9 p>ticul>1 in=m$ h]self ?or\ghly1 & toge!r %e & h] husb&1 x is said1 organiz$ ! ,g]man 8,lace ,control10 ) headqu>t]s at ,brussels4 ,s9ce ! ,g]mans _h requisition$ all ! ?read !y c\ld lay _! h&s on1 ( :i* !re 7 enorm\s /ocks 9 ,belgium1 x 0 n difficult = !m to (f] x to ! work]s4 ,!y s5t ,g]man soldi] facteurs into e corn] ( ! c\ntry to (f] l>ge prices to native facteurs or to individual work]s4 ,on receiv+ a piece ( lace1 !y suppli$ an equal weight ( ?read to ! work]s1 ?us e/abli%+ a cont9u+ *a9 ( mat]ial & product4 ,& !y claim$ to be sell+ _! lace 9 ,am]ica6 ,!y 7 clev] en\gh to pr(it1 9 #aiag1 by ! ,committee's app>5t inability to g on at t mom5t1 ex]cis+ e pressure !y c\ld1 & naturally !y ga9$ gr\nd4 ,no "o c say yet h[ mu* lace !y 7 able to buy1 b ! am\nt ( inf]ior lace 0 consid]able4 ,madame ,van d] ,brugg5's records %[ t be=e #aiag !re 7 9 ,wyngh5e1 contribut+ to ! ,committee1 #djj work]s on ,cluny & ,du*esse1 ab\t #bjj on ,cluny & ,val5ci5nes 9 ,be]nem1 #bjj on ,val5ci5nes 9 ,o$elem1 & #cej 9 ,oo/camp1 all grateful to h ! ,committee's fixt m9imum ( ?ree francs' "w a week insur$ to !m4 ,"s ( ^! villages1 ,be]nem & ,oo/camp = in/ance1 are usually includ$ 9 ! ,bruges di/rict4 ,%e prais$ ! ,committee's me?od ( rais+ ! wage by /&>diz+ ! values ( c]ta9 designs z execut$ by an av]age work]2 ! poor] work]s !n ga9$ less1 ! sup]ior ones1 m4 8,i ?\ght ,i realiz$10 %e said1 8h[ cruelly und]paid our wom5 71 b x 0 n until ,i saw _! joy :5 ! ,committee promis$ !m t at lea/ !y %\ld always h a m9imum ( t5 c5times an h\r = _! "w1 t ,i really und]/ood4 ,t5 c5times 7two c5ts71 j a po/age /amp1 = a :ole h\r's /ra9+ ef=t2 & !y 7 happy because t 0 s mu* m ?an !y _h be5 sure ( w9n+ be=e ! w>60 ,,iv ,,grammont ,belgian ,home ( ,*antilly ,! ,committee 0 disc\rag+ ab\t ,grammont4 ,:5 ,i told ,madame de ,beughem ( my plan to g !re to see ,*antilly lace 9 ! mak+1 %e answ]$1 8,b t w be a futile j\rney2 ! wom5 h _h practically no black or :ite silk ?read s9ce ! w>1 & ! few :o 7 /ill work+ 9 #aiad w h /opt2 t "o-"t important bran* ( ! indu/ry has almo/ ceas$ to exi/40 ,i decid$1 h[ev]1 to visit ! tomb ( ,*antilly1 ! lace s closely id5tifi$ ) ,grammont t 9 ,belgium x takes its "n f t city1 r ?an f its orig9al ,fr5* home4 ,& ,grammont itself1 a t[n ( #ac1jjj inhabitants1 0 well wor? ! j\rney1 situat$ z x is 9 a lovely region ( roll+ hills1 & d]iv+ its "n f ! /eep slope 7,gr& ,mont7 to :i* "p ( ! city cl+s4 ,! surr\nd+ undulat+ c\ntry is dott$ ) qua9t1 clu/]$ villages1 "s ) ?at*$1 "s ) til$ ro(s1 & only tw5ty miles away is ! *>m+ t[n ( ,aud5>de--poor ,aud5>de1 s cruelly w\nd$ by ! w>6 ,i rea*$ ,grammont ab\t noon1 hav+ lo/ an h\r on ! way ?r\gh ! difficulty ( pass+ camions & artill]y & m>*+ companies ( ,canadian soldi]s4 ,betwe5 ,n9ove & ,grammont1 too1 7 _m squads ( ,g]man prison]s at "w on ! ru9$ road4 ,!y 7 gu>d$ by ! ,fr5*1 b x 0 a r l5i5t surveillance1 at any rate ! sull5 gr\ps 9 _! trail+ gray capes appe>$ to be casually tapp+ ! mud ) _! spades in/ead ( be+ g5u9ely at "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,a 8,,m>ie ,,anto9ette0 ,,9 ,,*antilly ,,lace1 ,,made ,,) ,,bobb9s1 ,,ne> ,,grammont ,illu/ration3 ,,cu%ion ,,cov] ,c5t] ,v5ise1 bord]s ,val5ci5nes1 lace execut$ by #ab work]s 9 "o mon?1 embroid]y & m\nt+ by f\r wom5 9 two mon?s1 design by ,m4 de ,rudd] ,illu/ration3 ,,tea ,,clo? ,po9t de ,p>is1 cock design ,my ,belgian *auffeur1 ^: heal? is brok5 aft] ?ree ye>s ( =c$ labor 9 ,g]many1 w\ld h be5 delight$ to run !m d[n1 & at "o po9t did succe$ 9 spla%+ a gr\p ) mud1 z he call$ 8,bo*es0 & some?+ ,i did n cat*4 ,i began to und]/& ! rul+ t releas$ ,belgian prison]s %all n be plac$ ov] ,g]mans /ill held "h4 ,aft] lun* ,i />t$ ) ,madame ,cus5]s to ! little lace s*ool ^: director has c\rage\sly c>ri$ on dur+ ! f\r ye>s4 ,we walk$ ?r\gh a n>r[ ar*$ passageway beside a brick build+ & into a l>ge hall at ! re> :i* 0 at "o "t ! lace class-room4 ,in/ead ( lace-work]s1 h[ev]1 we f\nd ,scot* & ,canadian soldi]s busy tack+ ! ,union ,jack & ,belgian flags on ! wall1 & hang+ b\ghs & fe/oons ( color$ pap] r+s--!y 7 mak+ ready = a 8gr&0 ,new ,ye>'s ,eve danc+ p>ty4 ,9 ! c\rty>d /ill f>!r back a half-doz5 ,scot*m5 _h built a campfire1 protect+ x ) a l[ canvas ro(1 & x 0 burn+ brightly despite ! dismal ra94 ,x %one on ! w9d[s ( ! long1 n>r[ room at ! side ( ! c\rt1 :i* look$ l a cons]vatory1 b :i* _h become ! refuge ( ! lace-work]s1 :5 because ( lack ( ?read & fuel1 !y c\ld no long] occupy _! hall4 ,i f\nd fifty sweet-fac$ girls betwe5 ?irte5 & fifte5 busy ov] _! cu%ions1 a fai?ful1 tir$-look+ old ,abb & an en?usia/ic "y woman tea*]4 ,!y 7 n mak+ black nor ! less important :ite silk ,*antilly1 = !y _h long be5 entirely )\t silk ?read4 ,nev]!less1 !y 7 pres]v+ ! art ( mak+ x1 s9ce !y _h be5 kept at "w on ,*antilly designs execut$ ) bobb9s & ! :ite cotton ?read furni%$ by ! ,committee4 ,!y _h "s f9e fl\nces1 :i* 7 n1 h[ev]1 to be comp>$ ) ! traditional black silk ones ( ! great ,*antilly days4 ,= ,*antilly has se5 great days4 ,x appe>$ fir/ 9 ,france ab\t #agdj1 :]e x a*iev$ a ph5om5al popul>ity1 :i* 0 un=tunately rudely end$ by ! ,revolution1 = s9ce x 0 a favorite lace at c\rt1 ! ,revolutioni/s made x a crime to appe> 9 ,*antilly4 ,lat]1 "u ! ,empire1 x enjoy$ a revival1 ! fabrication ( ! silk laces spread 9 ,france2 ,bayeux became a celebrat$ c5t]2 &1 f9ally1 t[>d #ahce1 x cross$ to ,belgium1 :]e ,grammont 0 e>ly recogniz$ z its home4 ,9 #ahea all ( ! =ty-n9e s*ools ( t prov9ce taught ! te*nique ( ?is lace4 ,!n t[>d #ahgj true ,*antilly seem$ doom$ a second "t to ext9ction by ! success ( ! ma*9e imitations ( ,/4 ,pi]re des ,calais1 & also because ! vogue = black lace _h pass$4 ,b aga9 ! p5dulum has swung back2 ! imitations are n[ greatly 9 favor & !re is a *e]+ increase 9 ! dem& = ! true lace fl\nces4 ,! ,abb br\ght out f du/y draw]s ! s*ool's /ock ( designs1 elegant gr\p+s ( b\quets & foliage1 ) occasional /rik+ geometrical details introduc$1 all jo9$ by a f9e hexagonal me%1 :i* resembl$ at fir/ t ( ,mal9es1 & lat]1 m closely1 ! ,po9t d' ,al5on me%4 ,! fact t ?is lace is (t5 us$ = sc>fs & g[ns1 & t ! cu/om>y fl\nce is ( g5]\s wid?1 has enc\rag$ ! developm5t ( elaborate patt]ns4 ,"s ( ! sket*es 7 divid$ by heavy p5cil l9es into ! sep>ate n>r[ /rips on :i* ! lace-mak] actually works4 ,to a*ieve ! wide fl\nce1 ^! /rips are atta*$ "o to ano!r by special work]s :o employ a jo9+ /it* t defies detection4 ,! individual patt]n /rips include bo? me% & fl[]s & foll[ irregul> l9es1 curv+1 x may be1 to include a full-petal$ rose4 ,:5 "o exam9es ! f95ess ( ! cle> hexagonal me% t =ms ! base ( ,*antilly1 x seems all ! m rem>kable t ! division l9es are n visible4 ,?is ,*antilly me% has diff]$ dur+ v>i\s p]iods & besides !re are always almo/ z _m v>ieties z !re are work]s1 = "o weaves m closely or m firmly ?an ano!r4 ,i came soon to realize h[ great a diff]5ce 9 effect results f a practically invisible v>iation 9 ! ?ickness ( ! ?read1 or 9 ! mann] ( twi/+ or loop+ x or 9 ! plac+ ( ! p9s4 ,"o ( ! di/+ui%+ *>act]i/ics ( ,*antilly is ! relief produc$ by a heavi] ?read t outl9es ! patt]n & =ms ! twigs & ve9s ( ! leaves4 ,9 secur+ a brilliant relief1 ! ,fr5* h always succe$$ bett] ?an ! ,belgians4 ,^! ,grammont pupils 7 also mak+ ,blonde1 a favorite lace ) ! ,spani% p1 & introduc$ into ,belgium f ,france at ! same "t z ,*antilly4 ,its processes are v simil>1 ?o x is easily diff]5tiat$ f its si/] by ! heavy glossy petals ( its fl[]s & _! conspicu\s op5-"w c5t]s 9 ! ,po9t de ,p>is /it*4 ,! "n ,blonde is d]iv$ f ! cru silk :i* 0 fir/ employ$ 9 its mak+2 n[ x is made ( :ite or ( black silk1 & *iefly 9 ! =m ( sc>fs or mantillas4 ,! girls 7 mak+ _! w>-"t ,blonde ( cotton1 ! good ,peat cotton ( ,nott+ham1 br\ght 9 by ! ,c4 ,r4 ,b4 = ! ,lace ,committee4 ,x is practically only 9 ! ,grammont & ,turnh\t regions t ,blonde is /ill made4 ,! in/ructress %[$ me ! little bundles ( poor1 crook$ brass p9s t 7 all t rema9$ aft] f\r ye>s ( ! occupation1 expla9+ :at h>m poor p9s c "w 9 a f9e me% l t ( ,*antilly4 ,!n %e ask$ if ,i c\ld n tell !m :5 !y might expect new ones4 ,alas1 ^! di%e>t5+ mon?s ( ! w9t] ( #aiah-aiai :5 "o hope aft] ano!r has be5 def]r$2 s _m ?+s to be done at once1 & all dep5d+ on ! re-e/abli%m5t ( a sy/em ( transportation utt]ly de/roy$4 ,i w5t f ! s*ool-room1 pa/ ! fire 9 ! c\rty>d1 back to ! l>ge hall :]e ! ,canadians 7 /ill decorat+ = _! p>ty1 & :]e we wi%$ "o ano!r a ,happy ,new ,ye>--brave ,canadian boys well lov$ by ! ,belgians--!n on to ! h\se ( ,madame's "m1 :o = a half-c5tury has be5 a lace fabricant1 or deal]1 & ^: front room s]v$ easily z comb9$ salon & (fice4 ,preci\s laces ne$ v little space2 !y c be /or$ 9 a h&some c>v$ oak armoire1 :i* is at once a safe & a beautiful article ( furniture4 ,?is old lady's hair 0 /ill d>k & glossy1 z is s (t5 ! case ) gr&mo!rs 9 ,europe1 & h] br[n eyes 7 bright & ke54 ,%e talk$ ( ! "t :5 !re 7 m ?an tw5ty deal]s employ+ ov] #b1jjj work]s on ,*antilly 9 ! ,grammont region1 & ( ! gradual decl9e ( ! indu/ry4 8,c]ta9 empty h\ses on ! heights above ! t[n tell ! /ory4 ,long ago ! lace-mak]s left ! valley at ! foot ( ! slope1 & seek+ ! bright] light on ! hill1 =m$ a lace colony !re2 b !y h come d[n aga91 ! h\ses on ! hill are des]t$4 ,"o by "o ! skill$ old work]s h di$1 & _! secrets ) !m4 ,!re is only "o really excell5t piqueuse left & %e is a bak]-woman :o ex]cises h] tal5t ( prick+ patt]ns betwe5 bak+6 ,& ,i believe t in/ead ( ! =m] ?\s&s1 we h n m ?an eight hundr$ d5tellires to-day4 ,"h1 z else:]e1 factories h come1 & ! lace has fl$4 ,) u x is ! cig> & ! mat* t h bani%$ x1 !y furni% bett] wages & our wom5 foll[4 ,h[ev]1 if we c w9 a high] pay = ! lace1 & c b develop ! little s*ool y h j visit$1 & cont9ue to tra9 our girls1 we %all yet be able to re/ore ,*antilly4 ,especially10 %e add$1 8if we c be help$ by t fickle ,mi/ress ,fa%ion1 :o la/ ye> smil$ aga9 on ! black lace g[n4 ,"s ( our patt]ns = robes c be made 9 a few weeks1 b ! truly f9e ones take mon?s1 ev5 a ye> to make4 ,all dep5ds on ! design & ! numb] ( ?reads4 ,we h _h mu* to combat 9 ! success ( ! m>vel\s ,calais ma*9e imitations ( ,*antilly1 b true lov]s ( lace w nev] be cont5t ) !m1 h[ev] clev] !y are40 ,%e %ook out a fold$ triangul> %awl4 8,!re is no lace 9 ! _w m beautiful ?an ?is10 %e said1 z %e spread x on ! :ite tableclo?1 ! bett] to display ! weal? ( its black fl[] clu/]s & long fronds1 & !n _h me squeeze ! delicate me% 9 my h& to te/ its resili5cy4 ,i c\ld n b agree ) h]4 ,h] daught] br\ght out an exquisite coll>1 a t5dril & fl[] patt]n1 ) long tabs t c\ld be cross$ 9 front & let fall l a sa% beh9d1 a 8,m>ie ,anto9ette0 ( mo/ tempt+ lovel9ess2 !n a da9ty p>asol & a fan & a few filmy w+$ butt]flies--all pieces made be=e ! w>1 be=e ! ,g]mans set a wall ( fire betwe5 ! wom5 ( ,grammont & ! silk ?read 7,gr5ad9e d',alays7 :i* meant _! bread4 ,i 0 glad to h a few h\rs ( sweep+ hill c\ntry betwe5 ^! elegant black laces & ! ,val5ci5nes ,i 0 next to see2 = ! mom5t all :ite lace seem$ negligible4 ,v ,,bruges ,que5 ( ,lace ,cities ,aft] a day beside ! graves ( ,nieuport & ,dixmude & ,ypres1 ! fir/ glimpse ( ! s++ t[]s ( ,bruges aga9/ ! ev5+ sky seems an une>?ly vision4 ,dur+ f\r ye>s no "o _h kn[n t ,bruges w\ld n p]i% z h] si/]s _h p]i%$4 ,"o mu/ h come direct f ! desolation ( ,nieuport1 to h] pignons & bridges1 f ! skeleton ( ,les ,halles ( ,ypres to h] ,htel de ,ville1 to e/imate h] incomp>able beauty4 ,s9ce ,ypres is dead1 only ,bruges & ,turnh\t rema9 z true lace cities ( ,belgium2 ,gh5t1 ! elegant neighbor ( ,bruges1 & h]self once a ,que5 9 ! lace _w1 has turn$ to h] factories & no long] c\nts4 ,except ,turnh\t1 !n1 ) its fam\s s*ools = f9e laces1 no ,belgian city to-day *all5ges ! lead]%ip ( ,bruges1 & beyond ,belgium1 %e has b "o great rival--,v5ice4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lace-,,mak]s ,,( ,,bruges ,?is claim to lead]%ip re/s on a solid f\ndation4 ,bruges is ( anci5t l9eage 9 ! lace _w2 %e has pres]v$ unbrok51 ?r\gh at lea/ f\r c5turies1 ! traditions ( t _w4 ,!re are ^? ev5 :o believe t m$ival bobb9 lace _h its orig9 9 h] t]ritory1 & !y are at lea/ support$ by leg5d4 ,a pretty /ory tells ( a poor & infirm wid[1 :o ) h] _m *ildr5 liv$ 9 a little /reet ( ,bruges4 ,! entire family dep5d$ only on ! "w ( ,s]5a1 ! elde/1 :o f dawn till d>k turn$ h] :eel4 ,%e _h long be5 lov$ by a neighbor1 ,arnold1 ! son ( a great m]*ant1 & %e did n view him ) disfavor4 ,b z w9t] & mis]y settl$ aga9 on ! poor little hut1 & ,s]5a saw t all h] ef=ts appe>$ va91 %e v[$ to ! ,virg9 nev] to m>ry unless h] family c\ld be rescu$ f _! suff]+4 ,!n "o day :5 ne> ! ,m9newat]1 z %e 0 mak+ sad ?\ghts1 sudd5ly %e saw a light1 & f ! ,virg9 ?reads desc5d$ t[>d h]1 :i*1 skipp+ ! bran*es1 dropt 9 h] lap1 :]e !y by *ance design$ lovely patt]ns4 ,s]5a und]/ood ?is to be ! response to h] pray]1 & %e tri$ at once to reproduce ! arabesques 9 l95 ?read4 ,%e end$ by atta*+ little woods to !m & by aid+ !m ) p9s4 ,& ?us to ! great emotion ( ,bruges bobb9-lace 0 born4 ,& all ! ri* seigneurs & b\rgeois wi%$ to possess x4 ,ease came & ,s]5a m>ri$ ,arnold1 & !y _h _m daught]s1 all ( :om %e taught to make lace4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bruges ,,& ,,simil> ,,bobb9 ,,laces ,fir/ column3 ,bruges ,middle column3 ,bruges1 ,bruges1 ,bruges1 ,rosal9e ,?ird ,column3 ,rosal9e1 ,old ,fl&]s1 ,old ,fl&]s1 ,du*esse ,! (t5 quot$ picture 9 ! ,l\vre ,gall]y1 pa9t$ by ,hans ,meml+ 7#ad--to #adid7 & repres5t+ ! ,virg9 & ! ,infant ,*ri/ surr\nd$ by gift-be>]s1 among :om is a ri* ,brugeois we>+ a gray co/ume trimm$ ) a bobb9-lace edg+1 c]ta9ly indicates t ! indu/ry exi/$ 9 ?is epo*1 & possibly _h its c5t] at ,bruges1 !n ! pr9cipal city 9 ,fl&]s & ! seat ( ! c\rt4 ,fur!rmore1 records prove t already at ! op5+ ( ! #af? c5tury1 lace-mak+ 0 includ$ z a necess>y "p ( ! education ( wom54 ,! edicts ( ,*>les ,v requir+ t x %\ld be taught 9 all ! s*ools & conv5ts1 greatly /imulat$ its developm5t 9 ,bruges1 z well z ?r\gh\t ! entire ,fl&]s & ! prov9ces ( ,ha9aut1 ,brabant & ,antw]p4 ,x became s popul> an occupation = wom5 t ,*>les's successor1 ,philip ,,ii1 requir$ t ! magi/rates ( ,gh5t & ,bruges re/rict ! numb] ( lace-work]s 9 _! cities1 9 ord] t ! ri* might f9d "s wom5 left will+ to s]ve !m4 ,ano!r enlight5+ docum5t %[s t 9 #aedd ,bruges c\nt$ #g1fif poor among h] population1 & t ! dep>tm5t ( public *>ity requir$ ( ! "y wom5 among !m t !y %\ld cease to walk ! /reets & %\ld le>n ! lace indu/ry4 ,!re 7 at t "t _m lace s*ools4 ,dur+ ! foll[+ c5turies1 ,bruges ma9ta9$ h] position z a lace c5t] & 0 able to survive ! dea?-bl[ ! ,fr5* ,revolution dealt ! indu/ry4 ,= we f9d1 ab\t ! middle ( ! #ai? c5tury1 ! city /ill c\nt$ sev5ty-n9e s*ools1 att5d$ by #b1gbb pupils1 :ile 9 ,val5ci5nes1 = example1 lace-mak+ no long] exi/$4 ,!re is1 !n1 a ri* & anci5t pa/ back ( ! click+ bobb9s ( ! ,bruges ( to-day4 ,aft] f\r ye>s ( ,g]man rule x is /ill difficult to give accurate /ati/ics1 b g5]ally speak+1 9 ?is city ( #ed1jjj inhabitants1 z _m z #e1jjj wom5 & girls make lace ( "s sort4 ,if y "q ! av]age woman1 %e w probably look at y 9 surprize & say3 8,h[ _m lace-mak]s8 ,:y1 ev]ybody2 !re is h>dly a h\se 9 ,bruges )\t its cu%ion & bobb9s40 ,:ile if y put ! same "q to su* a celebrat$ lace deal] z ,m4 ,gillemont de ,cock1 :o c\nts gold & silv] m$als f _m nations1 he w be v apt to answ]3 8,madame1 be=e ! w> ,i knew ( ab\t ?irty1 n[ ,i c n say60 ,! ,lace ,committee at ,brussels consid]s #e1jjj a fair e/imate = ,bruges & h] contribut+ villages1 :i* is ! numb] giv51 too1 by ,pr(essor ,ma]t5s ( ! ,normal ,s*ool4 ,by ! ,bruges di/rict is meant *iefly ,bruges1 q ! contr>y ( ! usual situation4 ,"o he>s ( ! ,alo/ region1 = in/ance1 & f9ds t :ile ! villages ( ! surr\nd+ area c\nt ?\s&s ( work]s1 9 ! city ( ,alo/ itself v few are left4 ,h[ev]1 ,bruges1 too1 c\nts "s few outly+ villages4 ,madame ,ryel&1 repres5tative dur+ ! w> ( ! ,brussels ,lace ,committee1 told me t =ty communes contribut$ to h] committee1 ! mo/ important be+ ,syssele 7:]e ,val5ci5nes is ! favorite lace71 ,maldeghem 7applications & filet71 ,sa9t ,&re 7,cluny & ,val5ci5nes71 ,oo/camp & ,lophem 7,val5ci5nes71 ,sa9t ,croix 7,cluny & o!r guipures71 & ,sa9t ,mi*ele 7an unusually beautiful ,du*esse de ,bruges74 ,9 ,bruges itself !re are ?ree important conv5t lace s*ools1 work+ l>gely = ! %ops1 b :i* also execute private comm&s2 ! conv5t s*ool ( ! ,apo/ol9es1 typical ( ^? :]e ! *ildr5 le>n a little ,flemi%1 a little ,fr5*1 mu* cate*ism1 & = ! re/ make ! laces ( ! region f morn+ till ev5+2 ! s*ool ,defo]e1 & ! well-kn[n s*ool ,joseph9e4 ,ea* has betwe5 #ajj & #bjj d5tellires1 :o make ! popul> ,tor*ons & ,clunys & ,val5ci5nes1 & also ! m difficult ,b9*e1 ) its me% *>act]iz$ by ! airy 8b\les de neige10 sn[-balls4 ,!y make1 too1 ,old ,fl&]s1 :i* has a p>ticul>ly /rong & elaborate me%2 & ( c\rse ! ,du*esse de ,bruges1 or ,bruges1 = :i* ! city is fam\s4 ,9 addition to ! conv5t s*ools & a few o!r less important laique s*ools & "s "w-rooms1 "o f9ds 9 ! ,hospices1 or free homes = ! old1 ano!r goodly company work+ toge!r4 ,9 _! picturesque retreats "s #bjj old wom5 pass _! days mak+ lace1 *iefly ,val5ci5nes4 ,!re rema9 ! individual h\seholds2 to ! common /atem5t t 9 ea* "o1 "s memb] makes "s k9d ( lace1 "o might add1 at "s "t dur+ ! ye>4 ,if ! *ildr5 f ^! homes d n g to ! s*ools to le>n1 !y are taught by _! mo!rs & gr&mo!rs4 ,a favorite ,*ri/mas gift to *ildr5 is a cu%ion & set ( bobb9s1 ) :i* !y soon le>n to produce simple patt]ns4 ,= example1 ,madame ,roose1 ! daught] ( ! conci]ge ( ! ,groo?uis ,museum1 :i* h\ses ! m>vel\s ,b>on ,li$ts collection ( old laces1 accu/om$ f *ildhood to see & he> ( ^! laces1 became h]self a lace-mak] & lat] a successful deal] & n[ has five daught]s ( h] own1 all ( :om %e has h]self taught to ply _! bobb9s4 ,! ,lace ,committee told me t dur+ ! w> ! clo?+ committee _h difficulty 9 f9d+ "y girls & wom5 :o c\ld d>n & sew ev5 mod]ately well2 s9ce *ildhood !y _h giv5 all _! "t to lace-mak+4 ,consci\s ( ! dang] 9 ?is situation1 ! ,lace ,normal ,s*ool prea*es t until %e has le>n$ o!r necess>y ?+s1 no "y girl %\ld be all[$ to sp5d m ?an half a day ov] h] cu%ion4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lace ,,normal ,,s*ool1 ,,bruges1 ,,beg9n]',s ,,class ,symbolic color patt]n on left-h& easel2 demon/ration bobb9s atta*$ to color$ ?reads at "r ,by f> ! great] numb] work+ at home make ,tor*on1 ,cluny & ,val5ci5nes1 ?o ! ,bruges di/rict is celebrat$1 too1 = ,rosal9e & ,b9*e & ,old ,fl&]s1 & above all = ! ,du*esse de ,bruges1 once s nam$ because x 0 ?\ght wor?y to adorn a ,du*ess4 ,bruges lace has always be5 made entirely ) bobb9s1 9 sep>ate fl[]s1 or details t are unit$ n by me%1 b by little picot-edg$ cords or b>s4 ,!re are _m v>ieties ( ?is famili> lace2 betwe5 ! co>se1 mu* m>ket$ mod]n ,bruges1 ) its well-kn[n roses & trefoils1 sometimes sc>cely m]it+ ! "n ( lace1 & ! ,bruges ( ! robe pres5t$ 9 #aija to ,que5 ,elizabe?1 !n ! ,pr9cess ,elizabe?1 !re is a deplorable di/ance4 ,! individual trefoils & arabesques & roses ( ! co>s] k9ds are made v quickly on ! r\nd cu%ion1 :i* c be readily turn$1 & are produc$ 9 great quantities 9 _m ( ! communes ( ! ,bruges region1 :ile =tunately 9 su* a village z ,sa9t ,mi*el "o c /ill see exquisite examples ( ! f9] ,bruges 9 ! mak+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,b$ ,,cov] ,,9 ,,du*esse1 ,,or ,,brussel',s ,,lace ,made ) bobb9s2 execut$ 9 ,fl&]s by #cj wom5 9 ?ree mon?s2 design by ,! ,lace ,committee ,r ?an be introduc$ to ! lace-mak+ ( ,bruges by ! y\ng] work]s 9 ! s*ools1 or 9 "o ( ! ?\s& homes giv5 ov] to x1 ,i pref]r$ to g fir/ to ! place :]e probably m /rang]s1 especially ,engli% & ,am]icans1 h be5 initiat$ into ! my/]ies ( ! cu%ion & its bobb9s ?an any:]e else 9 ! _w4 ,!re h be5 o!r fam\s ,bgu9ages 9 ,belgium--cong]ies ( h\ses ma9ta9$ by private end[m5t1 = wom51 :o1 :ile !y object to tak+ ! v[s ( ! conv5t1 yet wi% to live 9 a k9d ( p>tial retreat f ! _w & "u ! protection ( ! *ur*--b none loveli] ?an ?is "o ( ,bruges1 ) its sixte5? c5tury build+s ( pure ,flemi% ar*itecture1 gr\p$ ab\t a wide gre5 c\rt %ad$ by elm trees4 ,naturally ! ,bgu9age has n be5 a mecca = travel]s & arti/s m]ely because sev]al ( ! g5tle old ladies 9 retreat !re made beautiful lace2 !y h come 9 se>* ( its qua9t pignons & doorways1 its inn] g>d5s1 ! bridges t span ! surr\nd+ canals :]e ! swans paddle peacefully4 ,& !y h be5 delight$ to f9d includ$ 9 ! picture ! :ite-capp$ wom5 be=e _! lace cu%ions1 int5t 7d\btless unconsci\sly7 on p]petuat+ o!r beauties1 z old z ^? ( ! build+s encircl+ ! c\rt1 ! designs ( ,val5ci5nes t h be5 h&$ d[n by ,fr5* & ,belgian mo!rs to _! *ildr5 ?r\gh g5]ations4 ,^! ladies ( ! ,bgu9age may keep _! private =tunes & pay = ! privileges ( ! retreat4 ,!y are suppos$1 h[ev]1 to live au/]ely2 _! *>m+ brick h\ses are :ite inside--wall-pap]s 7z be+ too gay7 are =bidd5--:ile ! floors are cov]$ ) a k9d ( pretty1 rude ru% c>pet4 ,!y may n g on j\rneys1 & no man outside1 except ! cl]gy1 may ent] ! sacr$ prec9cts ( ! c\rt1 ! gates ( :i* are clos$ at #h o'clock4 ,c "o imag9e an atmosph]e m enc\rag+ to h\rs sp5t pati5tly 9 lace-mak+8 ,x is record$ t 9 ! ,bgu9age ( ,gh5t1 9 #agef1 !re 7 z _m z #e1jjj wom5 engag$ 9 mak+ ! ,val5ci5nes = :i* t city 0 fam\s4 ,b ! day ( ?is p>ticul> k9d ( retreat has pass$1 & ev5 at ,bruges _m ( ! h\ses are vacant2 :5 ! old die1 !re are few :o wi% to take _! places4 ,& x is only because ^? few :o rema9 pres]ve ! be/ traditions ( ! lace t !y c\nt 9 ! lace-_w ( to-day2 ! quantity produc$ is negligible4 ,nev]!less1 ,i 0 delight$ t my fir/ k ( ,bruges lace %\ld come ?r\gh ! few wide ,val5ci5nes fl\nces ( exquisite fl[] & v9e patt]n & firm & ev5 workman%ip t ,i f\nd /ill p9n$ to ! cu%ions ( ! ,bgu9age4 ,curi\sly en\gh1 9 ?is retreat1 p]vad$ by ! sadness t inevitably reigns :]e ! old ord] *anges1 ,i f\nd ! "y & en?usia/ic ,vicaire1 ,pr(essor ,ma]t5s1 assi/ant director ( ! new ,lace ,normal ,s*ool ( ,bruges4 ,he lives ) 8 aunt1 :o is ! "m director ( ! ,bgu9age & call$ 8,madame1 la ,gr&e ,dame10 ?o %e is /ill ,mademoiselle4 ,! ,bgu9age may 9 "o s5se repres5t ! despair ( ! lace1 s9ce :at is happ5+ !re is happ5+ ?r\gh\t ,belgium4 ,b 9 ! p]son ( ,pr(essor ,ma]t5s ( ! ,normal ,s*ool1 ! ,bgu9age repres5ts1 too1 ! hope ( ! lace4 ,9 ! pla9 little room ( 8 *>m+ ,go?ic h\se1 he expla9$ ) admirable cl>ity ! necessity :i* l$ to ! f\nd+ ( ?is ,normal ,s*ool by ! ,/ate 9 #aiaa1 & ! sy/em :i* x has develop$4 ,he !n arrang$ t ,i %\ld 8assi/0 at ! rouv]ture ( ! s*ool ! foll[+ morn+4 ,!re 0 to be a reop5+ because1 9 common ) s _m s*ools ( ,belgium1 ! ,lace ,normal _h be5 driv5 f its qu>t]s by ! ,g]mans1 & ?o aft] _! eviction ! tea*]s _h p]si/$ 9 cont9u+ _! classes 9 a conv5t1 :]e _! p]secutors =c$ !m to receive two ,au/rian pupils 7f :om1 h[ev]1 !y conceal$ mu*71 !y 7 9 ! true s5se to beg9 aga9 on ,janu>y #g1 #aiai4 ,t 0 fully f\r weeks aft] ! invad] _h _h to evacuate1 = eag] z !y 7 to comm5ce1 ) _! be/ ef=t1 !y _h n be5 able be=e ?is to prep>e ?ree s*ool-rooms & a few small] ones on ! gr\nd floor = use4 ,we are accu/om$ to ! pictures ( ! t]ritories desolat$ by ! ,g]mans1 b unless "o goes f h\se to h\se 9 ! di/ricts suppos$ to be left unh>m$1 he c h no conception ( ! /ate 9 :i* !y 7 left4 ,h[ev]1 by ,?ursday morn+ ! few rooms on ! gr\nd floor _h be5 dis9fect$ & :itewa%$1 & ! ,lace ,normal ,s*ool ( ,belgium re-op5$ its doors at #h3cj o'clock4 ,poets h describ$ ! %9+ faces ( *ildr5 on _! way to s*ool--b aft] pupils & tea*]s h be5 gr\nd "u ! heel ( an implacable oppressor = f\r ye>s !re is /ill ano!r light 9 _! faces z !y reassemble 9 a free s*ool-room4 ,x 0 g5]\s ( !m to all[ me to %>e _! fir/ morn+4 ,! tea*]s' c\rse cov]s two ye>s4 ,9 ord] to insure c>eful individual tra9+ ! directors pref] to h no m ?an eight or t5 e>ne/ /ud5ts 9 ea* ye>'s class2 !y pref]1 too1 t ^! %all n h be5 lace-mak]s be=e ent]+1 & t !y be betwe5 sixte5 & ?irty ye>s ( age4 ,!re are1 !n1 two class-rooms1 light & airy1 & equipp$ ) blackbo>ds & *>ts1 & ! all-important l>ge demon/ration cu%ion ) its gigantesque bobb9s atta*$ to heavy color$ wool ?reads to aid ! eye & bra94 ,ea* "y woman records ! /eps ( h] progress 9 a s]ies ( copy-books s beautiful 9 _! p5man%ip & _! draw+ z to recall at once ! manuscripts ( long ago4 ,:at1 !n1 is ! in/ruction :i* !y receive8 ,s9ce !re _h nev] be5 a sy/em ( tea*+ lace-mak+ 9 ,belgium1 ! directors ( ! ,normal ,s*ool 7 oblig$ to develop "o1 & z x exi/s to-day1 logical1 compreh5sive1 f>-see+1 x belongs exclusively to ! ,s*ool ( ,bruges4 ,by ! defective me?od employ$ be=e1 a pupil 0 taught to make "o k9d ( lace1 !n ano!r1 & ano!r1 b ?o %e might become pr(ici5t 9 ! execution ( ?irty k9ds1 %e might /ill be incapable ( execut+ a new ?irty-fir/ v>iety if x 7 pres5t$ to h]1 because %e _h n be5 taught ! und]ly+ pr9ciples4 ,illu/ration3 ,,rosal9e1 ,,:i* ,,closely ,,resembles ,,bruges ,illu/ration3 ,,details ,,= ,,bruges ,,lace ,made ) bobb9s on r\nd cu%ion ,! ,bruges directors f\nd1 aft] a long & c>eful analysis ( ! processes employ$ 9 all kn[n laces1 t !y dep5d on b betwe5 tw5ty & ?irty major op]ations1 & t1 9 ! f9al analysis1 = ! bobb9 laces1 ^! r$uce !mselves always to ! simple "q1 8,does ! ?read pass f left to "r1 or does x pass f "r to left80 ,illu/ration3 ,,doily ,,set ,,9 ,,po9t ,,de ,,p>is ,,9 ,,! 8,,animals ,,( ,,! ,,allies0 ,,design1 ,,execut$ ,,at ,,turnh\t ,!y *ose specific colors1 r$1 purple1 gre5 & o!rs1 to repres5t specific movem5ts ( ! ?reads1 ?us e/abli%+ a symbolic color sy/em ( design :i* enables ! pupil to read a blackbo>d draw+ z he w\ld a writt5 page4 ,& !y realiz$ t be=e ! processes are portray$ by l9es on ! blackbo>d1 !y %\ld be execut$ ) ! gigantesque bobb9s & ! color$ wool cords4 ,!y !n outl9$ ! two ye>s' "w1 :i* !y made to include classes 9 practical lace-mak+1 9 design1 9 comm]ce & ,engli%1 9 ! hi/ory ( lace-mak+1 & religion4 ,because ! two ye>s' c\rse 0 already ov]-cr[d$ !y did n attempt to tea* ! ne$le po9ts1 :i*1 accord+ to !m1 d n dem& a sy/em ( in/ruction 9 ! same s5se t ! bobb9 laces require x4 ,besides1 !y look ^u bobb9 lace z m uniquely ,belgian & z !re=e m necess>y to develop4 ,dr4 ,rubb5s ( ,zele1 f>!r ea/1 plans soon to h a ne$le lace ,normal ,s*ool 9 op]ation 9 t t[n4 ,9 ! fir/ ye> class1 a demon/ration ( ! use ( ! tools1 ! w9d+-:eel1 ! cu%ion & bobb9s is foll[$ at once by ! /udy ( ! ,tor*ons1 :i* ?o !y are ! commone/ kn[n laces1 yet 9 all _! v>ieties employ all ! m important lace processes4 ,! ,tor*ons once ?or\ghly ma/]$1 ! /ud5t has travel$ a consid]able di/ance on ! lace j\rney4 ,! /udy ( ,tor*on is succe$$ by ,cluny 9 all its v>ieties & ,cluny is 9 turn foll[$ by a k9d ( b>b>ic ,russian lace1 ( b>oque design1 :i* is1 l ! ,tor*ons & ,clunys1 made ( l95 ?read1 & resembles !m closely 9 o!r ways4 ,! f9] laces1 ,val5ci5nes1 ,du*esse1 ,fl&]s1 & o!rs are taught only aft] ^! fir/ ?ree gr\ps h be5 ma/]$4 ,along ) ! actual lace-mak+1 ! /ud5ts foll[ c\rses 9 design1 :]e !y beg9 fir/ ) simple /udies 9 geometry & 9 draw+4 ,!y !n execute geometric designs & adapt !m to lace-mak+4 ,f ^! /udies !y proce$ to draw+ f nature1 & to :at is m difficult1 ! adaption ( ! draw+s f nature to lace designs1 = x is "o ?+ to create a beautiful fl[] & leaf arabesque1 & q ano!r ?+ to draw x s t x may be expre/ 9 ?read4 ,! important classes 9 comm]ce & ,engli% & ^? 9 hi/ory & religion run p>allel ) ! /udies 9 lace-mak+ & design4 ,( great value to ^! future tea*]s ( ,belgium is ! model practise s*ool across ! c\rt f ! ma9 rooms1 :]e at f\r o'clock ea* day ! poor] *ildr5 ( ! neighborhood come to be taught4 ,ea* has h] cu%ion & bobb9s & p9s & ?read furni%$ by ! ,normal1 & enjoys all ! advantages (f]$ by its excell5t sy/em2 :ile ! com+ tea*]s f9d "h ! opportunity to p]fect _! me?ods4 ,i ask$ if ^! tea*]s c\ld look confid5tly to f9d+ positions4 ,s9ce only ! initial class _h graduat$ be=e ! ,g]mans 7 ^u ,belgium & s9ce t class 0 compos$ almo/ entirely ( wom5 s5t f ! already exi/+ conv5t s*ools1 :o s\ght to improve _! me?ods1 x is z yet impossible to answ] ?is "q4 ,b z ?is is ! s+le tra9+-s*ool 9 ,belgium 7! ,brussels ,s*ool1 s capably direct$ by ,mme4 ,paulis1 be+ *iefly a s*ool ( design7 !re seems to be e reason to hope t once ! c\ntry has ris5 f ! *aos into :i* x has be5 plung$1 ! ,bruges graduates w h no difficulty 9 secur+ places4 ,tea*]s are z yet v poorly paid1 b z reg>ds sal>ies1 too1 !re is reason to hope4 ,! ideal plan = a s*ool w\ld seem to be t x %\ld be 9 *>ge ( a graduate ( ! ,normal ,s*ool1 :ile a speciali/ 9 design f ! ,brussels s*ool %\ld come once a week ) h] *>ts & draw+s to give p>ticul> in/ruction 9 t bran*4 ,! vital decision z to ! "p lace-mak+ %\ld h 9 ! curriculum ( ! communal or free public s*ools is /ill 9 abeyance4 ,s9ce factories h kill$ ! lace indu/ry 9 e o!r city 9 ,belgium except ,bruges & ,turnh\t1 p (t5 ask if x c p]si/ mu* long] 9 ,bruges4 ,!re seems to be good gr\nd to believe x w4 ,"u ! ,g]mans ! port ( ,zeebrugge acquir$ a mom5t>y prom95ce1 b ) ,antw]p s ne>1 !re seems little *ance t x w ev] become important1 or t ,bruges h]self may look =w>d to any l>ge indu/rial developm5t4 ,lovely1 tranquil city gu>d+ a beauty ( long ago1 x is probable t ,bruges w ma9ta9 h] "r to ! title 8,que5 ( ,lace ,cities40 8,yes10 ,m4 ,gillemont de ,cock w\ld add1 see+ ! patt]ns & quality ( ! ,val5ci5nes & ! mod]n ,old ,fl&]s & ,bruges1 & ,b9*e1 p9n$ to h] cu%ions to-day1 & rememb]+ ! exquisite delicate webs ( a few decades ago1 8,une ,re9e1 ,madame1 c'e/ vrai1 mais une ,re9e bi5 malade0--8a ,que51 ,madame1 x is true1 b a v sick ,que540 ,! ,lace ,normal & o!r s*ools c help greatly to re/ore h]4 ,,vi ,,k]xk5 ,si/] ,rob]t9e ,on a wet1 *e]less day betwe5 ,*ri/mas & ,new ,ye>'s1 ,i />t$ ) ,madame de ,beughem & ,madame ,all>d = ! mo/ important lace di/rict ( ,ea/]n ,fl&]s4 ,! ,alo/ region1 :i* 9 #ahif c\nt$ #h1ejj work]s1 is kn[n ?r\gh\t ! lace _w = its ,ne$le ,po9t & ,v5ise4 ,we w5t fir/ to ,alo/ itself1 ! c5t] ( ! area1 :]e1 h[ev]1 mod]n indu/ries h won _! already (t-repeat$ victory ov] ! lace4 ,x 0 9 ,alo/1 ! #af? ( ,novemb]1 #aiah1 t my c> _h sc>cely be5 able to pu% its way betwe5 ! two l9es ( ,belgian soldi]s ( deliv]ance hold+ back ! smil+1 te>ful population1 & :]e1 too1 ,i pass$ ,burgoma/] ,max free aft] f\r ye>s 9 prison 9 ,g]many1 on 8 way to ,k+ ,alb]t at ! ,army ,headqu>t]s ne> ,gh5t4 ,a %ort di/ance s\? ( ,alo/ we pass$ ,halta]t1 f :i* ?is lace section might m ju/ly take its "n1 s9ce 9 ,halta]t !re is sc>cely a h\sehold )\t its ne$le or bobb9 work]s4 ,& b a little f>!r s\? lay ,k]xk51 :i* ev5 9 ! ra91 look$ a fri5dly village & :]e beside fully ?ree-f\r?s ( ! w9d[s wom5 7 ply+ _! ne$les4 ,be=e ! w> companies ( ! m5 ( ?is region w5t to ,france to "w 9 ! h>ve/1 z _m z #dj1jjj migrat+ annually1 because ev5 be=e ! w>1 ,france 0 %ort-h&$ agriculturally & ! ,fr5* fields (f]$ high] wages ?an _! own4 ,! wom5 & girls help$ ^? :o rema9$ to ga!r ! crops1 & 9 ! fall1 :5 ! m5 came back & ! season = work+ ! f>ms _h pass$1 :ole families turn$ to lace-mak+ z a means ( piec+ out ! ga9s ( ! summ]4 ,sometimes ! m5 c>$ = ! *ildr5 or assi/$ ) ! h\sework s t ! wom5 might sit un9t]rupt$ly be=e _! patt]ns1 & 9 c]ta9 in/ances !y !mselves made lace--! c5sus ( #ahif li/s #aag m5 lace-work]s 9 ,belgium4 ,9 ,k]xk5 we f\nd t ?irty "y m5 :o _h be5 silk weav]s be=e ! w> _h dur+ ! occupation be5 able to make lace--n true lace1 b su* imitations z filet1 really a =m ( embroid]y4 ,!y made1 too1 ,application1 n g5u9e ,application :]e true lace details1 made ei!r ) ! bobb9 or ne$le1 are sew$ ^u ! tulle base1 b tulle ornam5t$ ) ma*9e-made lacets1 n>r[ braids ( v>i\s sorts t come to ! region f ,calais4 ,lacets usually h a /rong ?read along "o edge1 :i* c be drawn s t ! braid may be m swiftly fa%ion$ into curv+ leaves or fl[]s4 ,^! di/ress+ imitations1 :i* un=tunately pay mu* bett] ?an ! true laces1 s9ce !y c be made ) great spe$ & f9d a ready m>ket1 are a con/ant m5ace to !m4 8,voil notre ennemie60 said ,madame ,all>d1 z we look$ into a "w-room :]e ! table %[$ little piles ( lacet coll>s4 ,! only me?od ( fight+ ?is enemy is ?r\gh high] wages = ! g5u9e lace4 ,we c\ld n see ,adele ,rulant1 once ) h>dly a pe] 9 ,ne$le ,po9t1 to :om p f f> & ne> _h s5t _! old pieces1 ev5 %r$s ( _! family treasure1 = re/oration1 kn[+ t almo/ c]ta9ly h] arti/'s ne$le w\ld recapture ! lo/ me% or fl[]4 ,adele ,rulant _h di$ & we realiz$ aga9 h[ surely "o by "o ! fam\s d5tellires ( ! la/ half ( ! #ai? c5tury are dropp+ out4 ,we turn$ d[n a lane & 7 soon at ! gre5 door ( ! conv5t ( ! black-rob$ ,francisca9e ,si/]s1 :o dismay$1 b smil+1 hurri$ =w>d to greet u1 v fre% look+ 9 _! :ite l9$ coiffes & coll>s4 ,i say dismay$1 because ?r\gh an error !y _h expect$ u ! day be=e & _h kept a fire burn+ = h\rs1 a supreme expression ( hospitality 9 ?is bitt]1 coalless w9t]2 ?is 0 ,saturday aft]noon1 !re 0 no fire1 & ! lace-work]s 7 at home scrubb+ _! til$ floors & door/eps4 ,b !y w\ld light a fire at once1 & s5d a ,si/] to ! ne>e/ h\ses to recall at lea/ a few ( ! wom52 !y w\ld prep>e lun* = u1 a plate ( little cakes & a bottle ( w9e _h already be5 set on ! table4 ,su* an apologetic bu/le ( welcome 0 he>t-w>m+ on a *e]less day4 ,no?+ less1 ,i am c]ta91 w\ld h made x possible = me to dr9k an entire glass ( s\r r$ w9e at #aj3cj o'clock 9 ! morn+4 ,i wi%$ p>ticul>ly to visit ! conv5t because ,i _h kn[n dur+ ! f\r ye>s ( ,sur ,rob]t9e's successive victories ov] ! ,g]mans4 ,aft] !y refus$ to let laces pass except ?r\gh _! h&s1 :i* tax$ & _h frequ5tly /ol5 f ! p>cels1 "t & aga9 %e outwitt$ !m1 cross+ ! =bidd5 village fronti] & c>ry+ ! preci\s rolls h]self to ! (fice ( ! ,committee at ,brussels4 ,b5ea? ! calm ( t (fice !re 0 always t5se expectancy2 at any mom5t any?+ might happ51 ev5 ! wor/ ?+4 ,"o day aft] weeks ( be+ entirely cut (f f _m ( _! lace sections1 :5 ! wom5 7 m /ra9$ & anxi\s ?an ev] be=e1 ! door op5$ quietly & ,sur ,rob]t9e1 ( ,k]xk51 a prohibit$ di/rict1 /ood be=e !m4 ,fe> = h] q ov]came _! joy at see+ h]2 !y quickly turn$ ! key & hurri$ h] into a re> room4 8,b :y h y come8 ,we did n s5d = y--we %\ld nev] h all[$ y to take su* risks60 ,at fir/ only ,sur ,rob]t9e's tw9kl+1 ke5 gray eyes answ]$1 z %e sl[ly ?rew (f h] long black cape & f b5ea? o!r g>m5ts began unw9d+ met] ^u met] ( lovely :ite lace1 till ! bill[y l5g?s cov]$ all ! table4 8,x 0 v simple--,i _h to come4 ,= weeks our ?read has be5 exhau/$2 ! wom5 are suff]+ = ne$ ( _! e>n+s4 ,i f\nd a way1 & ,i'll f9d a way back1 nev] fe>2 we'll all return safely to ,k]xk5--! ?read & ! money & ,i--ev5 ?o we may h to slip 9 "u ! v nose ( ! ,bo*e60 ,%e 0 /ill laugh+ & /ill produc+ lace1 little packets n[ ( squ>e insets & b\quets1 :5 ,i _h to leave4 ,x 0 a delight to meet h] aga9 "h freely direct+ h] conv5t--%e :o _h s bravely held h] "r to fre$om4 ,h] p>5ts _h be5 %op-keep]s & %e _h br\ght to ! ,ord] a goodly /ore ( practical k & a g5]al al]tness & good s5se1 :i* add$ to h] unselfi%ness & swift sympa?y & ev]-ready laugh1 easily expla9$ ! admiration & affection g5]ally felt = h]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,po9t ,,de ,,fl&res1 ,,or ,,fl&]s ,,lace ,fl[]s made ) bobb9s1 me% ) ! ne$le3 designs by ,! ,lace ,committee ,illu/ration3 ,,h&k]*ief ,,9 ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,made ne> ,alo/4 ,bo? me% & fl[]s made ) ne$le ,illu/ration3 ,,detail ,,%[+ ,,sev5 ,,diff]5t ,,fill+-,,9 ,,/it*es ,:ile we 7 sitt+ 9 ! l>ge1 cold reception room1 wait+ = ! work]s to reassemble1 ,i ask$ ,sur ,rob]t9e ab\t a pa9t+ ov] ! door--a /rik+ portrait :i* prov$ to be t ( ! ,cur ,van ,hoeimess51 :o1 9 #aheg1 f\nd$ ! conv5t 9 an attempt to relieve ! mis]y ( ! village4 ,a %ort "t be=e ?is1 greatly di/re/ by ! idl5ess & pov]ty ( 8 p>i%ion]s1 he _h ask$ t a tea*] be s5t to ,k]xk5 to in/ruct a few girls 9 ! art ( lace-mak+1 & s9ce !re 0 no build+ 9 :i* to />t a s*ool1 he call$ ! class ( five or six girls toge!r 9 8 own h\se4 ,!n1 lat]1 z ! exp]im5t succe$$1 he invit$ a gr\p ( si/]s to come & f\nd$ = !m ! conv5t ( ! ,francisca9es1 :i* f t day has held unsw]v+ly to ! traditions ( its f\ndation 9 tea*+ & execut+ ! f9e ne$le laces4 ,!re are at pres5t #ae si/]s1 & ab\t #aej true lace-work]s 9 _! lace s*ool4 ,9 addition1 #cjj mak]s ( filet & 8imitation0 are connect$ ) ! conv5t4 ,f ! salon we w5t to ! "w-room1 :i* looks on a deep wall$-9 g>d51 a treasure-plot = potatoes & cabbage dur+ ! fam9e ye>s4 ,ab\t a doz5 girls & wom5 _h dropt _! bru%es & brooms & hurri$ ?r\gh ! ra9 9 _! wood5 %oes to take up _! patt]ns & g on ) ! delicate trac]ies ( ,ne$le ,po9t & ,v5ise4 ,x 0 easy to pick out _! lead]--a beautiful-fac$1 :ite-hair$ woman we>+ a black cro*et cap1 at "w on a ,v5ise ins]tion4 ,%e 0 ,sidonie1 ! be/ piqueuse1 or int]pret] ( design1 9 ! conv5t4 ,!re 7 no cu%ions "h1 z 9 ! bobb9-lace classes1 & ! work]s held ! small1 %9+1 black clo? patt]n 9 _! h&s1 foll[+ ! prick$ holes ) _! ne$les2 !re 7 few] ( ^! guid+ p9-pricks ?an 9 ! bobb9-lace picqus4 ,! patt]ns = ,v5ise & ,ne$le ,po9t are usually small because mo/ wom5 object to l>ge details1 z difficult to turn 9 ! h&4 ,lat] 9 a neighbor+ conv5t ,i notic$ t ! patt]ns 7 consid]ably l>g] ?an ^? at ,k]xk51 & ,sur ,rob]t9e1 po9t+ to !m said1 8,i %\ld h to cut ^? 9 two = my girls40 ,=tunately a detail c usually easily be sep>at$ & lat] rejo9$4 ,to protect h] lace1 ! work] cov]s x ) ?ick blue pap]1 cutt+ a hole ab\t ! size ( a tw5ty-five-c5t piece ?r\gh :i* ! ne$le & ?read may move freely4 ,"h x 0 n ! m>vel ( ! fly+ f+]s1 z 9 ! bobb9-rooms at ,turnh\t1 t mo/ won our admiration1 b ! skill 9 direct+ ! f9e ?reads 9 complicat$ designs ( incr$ible delicacy4 ,i *ose to sit beside fifte5-ye>-old ,colette :o held ! p>tly f9i%$ section ( a h&k]*ief squ>e b5ea? h] ne$le4 ,%e expla9$ t x 0 ,po9t de ,gaze1 gauze po9t1 a "n m rec5tly giv5 ! old ,ne$le or ,brussels ,po9t4 ,& ! fragile hexagonal me% %e 0 weav+ betwe5 two beautiful full-bl[n roses1 ^: rais$ petals curv$ outw>d f elaborately work$ c5t]s1 seem$ mo/ appropriately nam$4 ,h] cotton1 = ,ne$le ,po9t is made ) cotton ?read1 0 s f9e t ,i c\ld n1 despite h] amus$ reit]ations1 believe x did n break ) e second /it*4 ,a heavi] ?read _h be5 us$ to make ! flat1 closely wov5 portions ( ! fl[]s1 & a /ill heavi] "o to outl9e ea* f9i%$ petal or leaf ) ! cordonnet 7cord7 or brode1 produc$ by an extremely firm & regul> buttonhole /it*4 ,?is cord ?r[s ! fl[]s into v brilliant relief4 ,illu/ration3 ,,v5ise ,,designs ,,by ,,! ,,brussels ,,lace ,,committee ,colette _h n wov5 ! roses1 = because ( ! difficulty 9 mak+ x1 work]s usually specialize on ! v>i\s individual p>ts compos+ ?is extremely popul> lace4 ,a second girl _h made ! fl[]s1 & a ?ird ! exquisite op5-"w details introduc$ to light5 ! :ole4 ,consid]able fre$om is all[$ ! lace-work] 9 ! execution ( ^! op5-"w /it*es4 ,if %e has tal5t %e may obta9 _m int]e/+ orig9al results 9 fill+ 91 = !re is app>5tly no limit to ! numb] ( /it*es %e may employ4 ,9 ,colette's little h&k]*ief squ>e1 ,i discov]$ m9iature m>gu]ites & />s & airy balls4 ,ea* gr\p _h be5 made by a speciali/ 7_m wom5 h sp5t _! lives 9 mak+ j t9y />s or :eels71 & s5t to ! conv5t to be b\nd toge!r ) ! leaves & roses into a beautiful :ole by ! cle> me% t dropt hexagon by hexagon f ,colette's swift ne$le4 ,illu/ration3 ,,h&k]*ief ,,& ,,jewel ,,boxes1 ,,fl&]s ,,& ,,v5ise ,,ov] ,,sat9 ,,& ,,velvet ,colette's neighbor 0 mak+ ! same me%1 b z a backgr\nd = bobb9-made clu/]s1 s5t "h f a bobb9-lace village to make ! r>e ,po9t d',anglet]re1 a small quantity ( :i* ,k]xk5 /ill produces4 ,9 ! corn] ( ?is class-room 7 ! %elves ) ! ess5tial ske9s ( ?read2 cotton = ! ,ne$le ,po9t1 l95 = ! ,v5ise4 ,! l95 is m & m difficult to obta91 & s9ce x is h>d to h&le & breaks easily1 has be5 l>gely supplant$ by cotton ?read4 ,!re 7 l>ge c>dbo>d boxes = ! draw+s & ! prick$ work+ patt]ns2 o!rs = ! little bobb9-lace roses & leaves & v9es t 7 to be work$ into ,brussels ,po9t2 & /ill m boxes = ! f9i%$ met]s & insets ready to be sold to ! ,committee1 & lat] to ! deal] :o w replace ! ,committee4 ,:ile we 7 exam9+ ! boxes a pretty1 d>k-hair$ d5tellire ( ab\t sixte5 came 91 ) "w %e _h f9i%$ at home1 two h&k]*iefs ) ,brussels ,po9t bord]s1 & two & a half met]s ( ,v5ise1 on :i* %e _h work$ five & a half mon?s & = :i* %e ask$ #afj francs1 or #dj4jj4 ,9 ! 8imitation0 room we pass$ quickly by ! l5g?s ( inf]ior filet & ! piles ( *eap coll>s made by m52 !re 0 little temptation to l+] !re4 ,! only def5se aga9/ t room is m pay = ! "w across ! hall4 ,we climb$ ! /airs %iv]+ & look$ into ! neat little b$rooms ) _! :ite bo>d floors1 & into ! icy *apel :]e ,sur ,rob]t9e decl>$ %e c\ld be q com=table ) only a small black wool5 %awl ov] h] %\ld]s4 ,we _h br\ght our lun*1 b 7 n all[$ to eat x4 ,si/] ,a41 an excell5t cook1 _h prep>$ hot s\p1 potatoes & meat1 & a dri$ apple m\sse :i* we p]suad$ ,sur ,rob]t9e to %>e ) u4 ,& aft] lun*1 ! orphan & refugee *ildr5 came 9 to %ake h&s1 also ,janik51 ! poor 8idiote0 :o is =ty-n9e ye>s old1 b /ill a *ild1 ) a /range1 animal-l expression on h] face4 ,sur ,rob]t9e held h] h& = u to %ake1 o!rwise little ,janik5 seem$ able to direct h] own movem5ts4 ,%e smil$ & *att$ 9 ,flemi%1 !n waddl$ (f q happy ) ! c&ies & cakes we _h br\ght4 ,janik5 sp5ds h] days mak+ bead coll>s & bracelets = ! si/]s1 :om %e loves1 & :5 h] bead boxes are empty %e places !m at ! foot ( ! /atue at ! end ( ! n>r[ corridor up/airs1 & prays ! good ,sa9t ,an?ony to refill !m1 t %e may weave m necklaces4 ,at night z ! si/]s pass sil5tly by ! /atue1 !y snap ! ?reads ( _! =m] gifts1 lett+ ! beads %[] into ! boxes1 & 9 ! morn+ ,janik5 is happy aga94 ,sur ,rob]t9e _h nev] ridd5 9 a motor1 & :5 we propos$ t %e accompany u to ! ,francisca9e conv5t at ,erembodeghem1 n v f> away1 h] eyes %one4 ,& ,i %all n =get ! faces ( ! o!rs1 z aft] a fur!r bu/le ( leave-tak+s & good wi%es1 !y lean$ f ! gre5 doorway 9 ! ra91 clasp+ _! h&s & laugh+ & nodd+1 :ile we tuck$ _! belov$ si/] into our c>4 ,sur ,rob]t9e h]self sat sil5tly & ec/atically 9 a corn]1 det]m9$ to miss no "p ( ?is extraord9>y exp]i5ce4 ,,vii ,,erembodeghem ,! ,que5's ,clo? ,erembodeghem is a commune ( ab\t #f1jjj inhabitants1 ?o ! pretty w9d+ /reet by :i* we ent]$1 ) ! picturesque1 r$-til$ h\ses clu/]$ irregul>ly along bo? sides ( x1 sugge/s a small] village4 ,ne>ly all ! wom5 9 ?is t[n1 z 9 ,k]xk51 make lace1 & aga9 x is *iefly ,ne$le ,po9t & ,v5ise4 ,! conv5t1 :i* furni%es ! cu/om>y direct+ & /imulat+ c5t]1 has no sup]ior 9 ! c\ntry = its p>ticul> laces1 unless "o grants pref]5ce to its own "m h\se at ,opbrakel4 ,z we ent]$ ! c\rty>d1 a gr\p ( ,fr5* soldi]s 7 w>m+ !mselves be=e a fire !y _h light$ b5ea? a dripp+ canvas t5t-ro( /ret*$ across a corn] ( ! wall4 ,9 ! dre>y ra9 ! fire flam+ aga9/ ! brick wall1 & ! horizon blue ( ! uni=ms 7 a *e]y greet+4 ,b inside ! conv5t1 alas1 !re 0 less *e]2 inde$1 !re 0 ! *ill ( ! tomb1 no coal = ! poor si/]s1 :o 7 = lack ( x unable to conduct ! regul> s*ool classes4 ,!y told u ( _! di/ress ov] ! idl5ess ( ! *ildr51 :o _h be5 turn$ into ! /reets by ! ,g]mans _m weeks be=e1 & :om !y 7 n yet able to reassemble4 8,_! mann]s are already s bad10 ,si/] ,a4 said1 8t we are a%am$ to own !m z our pupils40 ,! ,g]mans left ! class-rooms 9 ! famili> condition1 & ! si/]s _h no soon] f9i%$ pat*+ & dis9fect+1 ?an ! ,italian soldi]s 7 billet$ !re4 ,!y 7 too loyal to criticise b ,i suspect t _! exp]i5ces aft] ! dep>ture ( ! ,italians mu/ h conv9c$ !m t1 aft] all1 a new army is j ano!r army4 ,! ,fr5* foll[$1 b !y at lea/ 7 occupy+ only f\r class-rooms1 & ! si/]s 7 try+ to be optimi/ic4 8,we believe !y mu/ be bett]10 "o ( !m said1 ) a smile2 8h[ev]1 we %all n "k until !y are gone40 8,at any rate10 %e cont9u$1 8our lace-room has n be5 requisition$2 we h _h en\gh coal to keep a little fire !re4 ,dur+ all ! f\r ye>s t "w has nev] /opt40 ,s9ce x 0 ,saturday aft]noon !re 7 _m vacant *airs 9 ! class-room1 b /ill en\gh girls 7 pres5t to enable u to judge ( ! k9d ( lace s*ool ?is is4 ,little girls betwe5 n9e & t51 sitt+ up v /raight 9 _! high-back$ *airs1 7 work+ ) swift1 /eady f+]s & already produc+ a good ,v5ise ins]tion ( a simple leaf patt]n4 ,sev]al ( ! o!r girls 7 busy ) ! n[ well-kn[n ,v5etian ,po9t m$allions repres5t+ ! arms ( ! ,alli$ nations1 & ! prov9ces ( ,belgium2 /ill o!rs 7 execut+ fl[] details = y>d lace4 ,all ?is ,v5ise !y 7 mak+ ) a ne$le & s+le l95 ?read1 = ?is conv5t works exclusively ) l95 ?read4 ,!y 7 h&l+ ! black clo? patt]ns1 eight to t5 in*es wide1 ) app>5t ease1 turn+ !m ) almo/ e /it*4 ,?is m]e ma/]y ( ! patt]n is 9 itself impressive4 ,9 a corn]1 ne> "o ( ! great w9d[s ov]look+ ! wall$-9 w9t] g>d51 a slim1 d>kly clad girl ab\t sixte5 0 absorb$ 9 prick+ a complicat$ patt]n4 ,si/] ,a4 l$ me a little aside to expla9 t ?is 0 _! feeble-m9d$ girl & t ?o !y c\ld n expla9 x1 %e 0 able to int]pret correctly v difficult draw+s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,v5ise ,,banquet ,,clo? ,,pres5t$ ,,by ,,! ,,lace ,,committee ,,to ,h4,m4 ,,que5 ,,elizabe? ,,on ,,h] ,,return ,,f ,,exile ,design by ,m4 de ,rudd]2 execut$ by ! #cj be/ ,v5ise-mak]s 9 ,belgium 9 six mon?s ,at ! ,committee ,bureau ,i _h se5 _m ( ! wond]ful clo?s made f ,v5ise details f ?is conv5t 7among !m ! clo? typify+ ! burn+ cities1 pres5t$ to ,mrs4 ,hoov]71 b ,i _h nev] imag9$ any?+ s lovely z ! exhibit ! si/]s _h be5 arrang+ on ! long1 l[ table1 :ile we 7 pass+ f *air to *air foll[+ ! magic ne$les4444 ,we turn$ to f9d ! sep>ate p>ts ( a banquet clo? to be (f]$ to ,que5 ,elizabe? on h] return f exile1 assembl$ = u4 ,two hundr$ & tw5ty details1 !re 71 on :i* dur+ ! d>ke/ days ( ! w>1 wom5 _h work$ ) unfalt]+ fai? & love4 ,m4 de ,rudd]1 a well-kn[n ,belgian arti/1 _h drawn ! design = ! ,lace ,committee4 ,! bord]1 edg$ ) ivy1 ! symbol ( endurance1 is compos$ ( f]ns & wild fl[]s1 eels & sea-we$1 sugge/+ ! =e/s & fields & wat]s ( ,belgium4 ,adjo9+ !m are ! coats ( arms ( de/roy$ cities1 bord]$ by a b& ( lilies ( ! valley1 signify+ ! return ( happ9ess4 ,9 ! c5t]1 ! f\r patron sa9ts ( ,brussels1 ,sa9ts ,mi*el & ,george1 & ,sa9ts ,elizabe? & ,gudule1 are enwrea!d ) olive bran*es4 ,sa9t ,elizabe?1 above ! ,r$ ,cross1 repres5ts ! ,que5 & h] devot$ s]vice z nurse dur+ ! w>1 :ile ! eight m$allions ne> h] c>ry ! names ( ! ,beatitudes4 ,opposite ,sa9t ,elizabe? is ,sa9t ,george1 :o repres5ts ,k+ ,alb]t4 ,bel[ him is ! ,belgian decoration = brav]y1 & 9 ! surr\nd+ m$allions are wov5 ! names ( battles won by him4 ,betwe5 ,sa9t ,elizabe? & ,sa9t ,george1 are ! immortal words spok5 by ,8 ,maje/y z he w5t f ! ,*amb]1 sword 9 h&1 on ! #d? ( ,augu/1 #aiad3 8,j'ai foi dans nos de/9es6 ,un pays qui se df5d s'impose au respect de t\s1 ce pays ne prit pas60 ,x is "o ?+ to m5tion a few ( ! two hundr$ & tw5ty details ( ?is glori\s clo?1 x is q ano!r to hold any "o ( !m 9 "o's h& & realize its p]fection1 its incr$ible comb9ation ( s(tness & delicacy & firmness & regul>ity4 ,! twelve si/]s ga!r$ happily ab\t u1 z we sat be=e ! table q brea?less ov] ! discov]y ( "o new beauty aft] ano!r 9 _! truly royal gift4 ,& !n !y br\ght u some?+ mu* less important1 b nev]!less exquisite1 ! "w ( ,si/] ,s41 :i* !y %[ r>ely1 a l5g? ( ,rose ,po9t ab\t f\r in*es wide1 & :i* ev5 ! wom5 ( ! ,committee aft] _! long ye>s' con/ant exp]i5ce 9 lace1 said !y _h nev] se5 surpass$4 ,! l95 ?read ord9>ily us$ 9 ,v5ise runs f ,numb] #bjj to ,numb] #cjj4 ,?is lace1 ^: base is =m$ by an e!real int]lac+ ( v9es & t5drils1 is made ) ,numb] #bjjj4 ,"o c "w on x sc>cely m ?an two or ?ree h\rs a day1 & !n only "u ! be/ light4 ,si/] ,s4 br\ght me ! magnify+-glass1 )\t :i* ,i c\ld n h foll[$ ! exquisitely v>i$ po9ts1 & lift$ ! inf9itesimal petals ( ! t9y fl[]s incru/+ ! backgr\nd ( int]wov5 t5drils4 ,9 "s ( ^! microscopic blooms 7 z _m z f\r lay]s ( petals4 ,x w\ld be useless to attempt to describe ! lovel9ess t results f ! bl5d+ ( ! backgr\nd ( v9es & lift$ blossoms4 ,i ask$ :at a met] ( su* lace w\ld br+ & le>n$ t x w probably be sold 9 ,p>is = #a1jjj francs1 ?o ^! si/]s w\ld be happy to gu>d x z "o ( _! conv5t treasures4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cu%ion ,,cov] ,,9 ,,v5ise ,pek9ese dog design1 by ,m4 ,all>d ,illu/ration3 ,,table ,,c5t] ,,9 ,,fl&]s ,,) ,,c5t] ,,& ,,bord] ,,( ,,v5ise ,design by ,lace ,committee2 execut$ 9 ,we/ ,fl&]s by five work]s 9 #ae days ,we _h int5d$ go+ into "s ( ! neighborhood h\ses to wat* ! "w ( ! old] wom51 b x seem$ impossible to look at any o!r lace t day & we said good-by4 ,& :ile ! *auffeur bru%$ away ! small boys cl++ to or crawl+ ov] ! c>1 we aga9 tuck$ our si/] 91 to c>ry h] home to ,k]xk52 x _h be5 a great day = ,sur ,rob]t9e & = u4 ,,viii ,,opbrakel ,"m ,h\se ( a ,fam\s ,lace-mak+ ,ord] ,aft] ,k]xk5 & ,erembodeghem ,i 0 n surpriz$1 :5 inquir+ ab\t ne$le laces fur!r s\?1 to le>n t ! only s*ool ^: "w c\ld dispute fir/ place ) !m 0 t ( ! "m h\se ( ! same ord] at ,opbrakel4 ,i _h come to "k t ! f9e/ ne$le laces ( ,belgium are made 9 ^! conv5ts ( ! ,surs ,francisca9es4 ,x 0 a bitt] day1 b ,i det]m9$ to rea* ,opbrakel despite %ell-pitt$ roads & ra94 ,i succe$$ ev5 9 mak+ a %ort /op on ! way at ,cruy%autem ,conv5t1 fam\s1 too1 = its ,ne$le ,po9t1 :]e ! si/]s w\ld h deta9$ me long] to describe aga9 & aga9 ! entry ( ! ,am]ican soldi]s at #i o'clock 9 ! morn+ on ,all ,sa9ts ,day--! wond]ful ,am]ican soldi]s :o _h arriv$ to free !m f _! oppressors ( f\r ye>s1 & :o _h rema9$ to buy e scrap ( lace 9 ! conv5t1 c>ry+ away ! address ) ! promise to s5d = m4 ,9 my j\rney+ ,i discov]$ a pretty way ( le>n+ ^: army occupi$ a p>ticul> village--,i look$ = ! fir/ small boy to see :i* soldi]'s cap he pr\dly wore4 ,?us at ,opbrakel1 ?o x 0 late aft]noon :5 ,i arriv$1 !re 7 *ildr5 /ill play+ 9 ! /reet1 & ! boys jauntily we>+ ! horizontal blue ann\nc$ to me t ! ,fr5* 7 !re4 ,^! small boys1 & lat] ! soldi]s !mselves1 exam9$ my mud-spla%$ c> ) mu* curiosity1 z x drew up 9 front ( ! conv5t door4 ,my visit 0 q unann\nc$1 b ! si/]s held out _! h&s 9 welcome1 & drew me 9 out ( ! ra91 speak+1 z !y did s1 words ,i _h almo/ =gott51 8,hot milk2 y mu/ dr9k a cup ( hot milk at once1 ,madame1 & y\r *auffeur also2 ?is is a cruel day = j\rney+40 ,!y l$ me to a little room1 :]e ,i f\nd ano!r unaccu/om$ com=t1 a t9y fire burn+ brightly4 ,z ,i sat be=e x1 sipp+ ! sweet milk1 ! fir/ ,i _h _h s9ce leav+ ,am]ica1 ,i rememb]$ ! gratitude ( travel]s 9 ! middle ages t[>d ! conv5ts & abbeys ^: doors !y f\nd op54 ,! w> _h br\ght a return ( _m ( ! difficulties & p]ils t beset !m1 ) ! com=table ho/elries ( pre-w> days pillag$ & ru9$1 ! little re/aurants or cafs t c\ld d bus9ess fill$ to ov]fl[+ ) soldi]s 7,i h sp5t h\rs 9 ! w9d & ra9 at night va9ly try+ to f9d a b$1 or a place = my c>71 ) roads wreck$1 nei!r po/ nor telegraph1 nor tra91 & natural accompanim5t ( all ?is disorganization1 ! necessity ( be+ ev] on gu>d aga9/ ?ieves--9 ! mid/ ( conditions l ^! we c appreciate ! mean+ ( ! *e]+ hospitality ! conv5t (f]s4 ,:ile we sat be=e ! fire ! ,"m ,sup]ior _h "o ( ! si/]s %[ me a treasure ( ! s*ool1 a fram$ exhibit1 illu/rat+ 9 m9iature all ! processes employ$ 9 ! mak+ ( ! ne$le laces1 :i* !y _h prep>$ = ! la/ ,int]national ,exposition at ,brussels4 ,!n %e rec\nt$ = me a little ( ! hi/ory ( h] lace-mak+ conv5t1 :i* celebrates its c5t5>y ?is ye>1 ?is free ye> ( #aiai4 ,i c\ld imag9e :at x w\ld h meant to try to be joyful ov] su* an anniv]s>y ) ! enemy heel /ill on "o's back4 ,"o hundr$ ye>s ago ! commune ( ,opbrakel 0 9 su* a wret*$ /ate ( pov]ty & mis]y t among its #b1jjj inhabitants1 #hjj 7 begg>s2 & z (t5 happ5$ else:]e dur+ ! p]iod ( suff]+ foll[+ ! ,napoleonic w>s1 ! cur ( ! commune s\ght to relieve x by f\nd+ a conv5t :i* %\ld tea* ! art ( lace-mak+1 to furni% a means ( e>n+ bread4 ,he call$ ! ,francisca9e ,si/]s :o soon _h #ajj pupils 9 _! lace-classes1 & among !m a numb] ( boys4 ,f ^? days to ^!1 lace-mak+ 9 ?is conv5t has nev] ceas$2 !re are n[ n m ?an #abe pupils 9 ! excell5t s*ool1 b 9 ! homes ( ! entire region are ^? :o h le>n$ _! art !re4 ,! si/]s taught fir/1 ,*antilly 7,opbrakel is v ne> ,grammont1 ! ,belgian home ( ,*antilly71 b ab\t fifty ye>s ago *ang$ f bobb9 to ne$le lace1 & s9ce ab\t twelve ye>s ago1 !y h specializ$ on ! p>ticul> ne$le lace1 ,v5etian ,po9t1 9 :i* !y are unexcell$4 ,few ( ! enraptur$ t\ri/s 9 ,v5ise realize t ! laces !y are buy+ !re 7 v probably made 9 ,fl&]s6 ,important lace s*ools & "w-rooms h f "t to "t conc5trat$ all _! skill on ! production ( a ma/]piece t might repres5t !m to ! _w & awak5 wide int]e/ & approval4 ,we h a long li/ ( su* *efs-d'uvres f ! lace-rooms ( ,belgium1 ( lovely sc>fs & clo?s & robes (f]$ to sov]eigns or di/+ui%$ patrons4 ,& happily dur+ ! w> ! ,committee c\ld enc\rage ?is practise by giv+ ord]s or special 8comm&s0 to be execut$ z gifts = b5efactors4 ,sev]al ( ^! pres5tation pieces w h endur+ value hi/orically z well z arti/ically4 ,m ?an "o comm& fell to ! %>e ( ,opbrakel1 & among o!rs t = a sc>f (f]$ to ! ,que5 ( ,holl& 9 appreciation ( h] c\ntry's g5]osity to ,belgians )9 ,dut* bord]s4 ,! d5tellires1 ea* pr\d to be select$ = ! royal task1 work$ _m mon?s on ! c\ntless exquisite ne$le po9ts 9 ?is delicate veil4 ,on ! sc>f ends !y unit$ ! arms ( ,holl& & ,belgium1 eng>l&+ !m ) hyac9?s & tulips1 ! ,dut* national fl[]s1 & ab\t ^! 9 turn !y wove lilies ( ! valley1 symboliz+ ! return ( happ9ess4 ,bel[ ! m$allion re/ ! ,belgian prov9ces1 en*a9$1 & above !m !y repres5t$ ! *ildr5 ( ,holl& %[]+ fl[]s ( abundance ^u ! m>tyr$ *ildr5 ( _! si/] k+dom4 ,x w\ld h be5 pleasant to talk ( o!r ma/]-works1 b we _h already sat too long be=e ! fire & we hurri$ n[ to rea* ! l>ge1 airy class-room across ! c\rt be=e d>k4 ,:5 />t+ on my lace j\rney1 ,i _h be5 w>n$ t1 once ,i _h visit$ ! bobb9-lace "w-room ) all ! picturesqu5ess ( ! cu%ion ) its m\nds ( bobb9s & clu/]$ p9s1 & ( ! fly+ f+]s & ! cont9u\s cad5ces ( ! cl9k+ wood1 ,i w\ld f9d ne$le-lace classes un9t]e/+4 ,9 ! beg9n+ ?is 0 true2 !re 0 no?+ p>ticul>ly dramatic or /irr+ 9 a great room fill$ ) girls & "y wom5 hold+ little black pap] patt]ns 9 _! h&s & ply+ a ne$le above !m4 ,b ! m ,i wat*$ ^! little patt]ns & ! f+]s direct+ ! ne$le & ?read1 ! m m>vel\s ! accompli%m5t appe>$--cotton & l95 s f9e t x seem$ impossible t any f+] %\ld control !m--cobwebby1 diaphan\s me%es1 ri*ly petall$ t9y fl[]s1 & delicately ve9$ leaves gr[+ b5ea? j a common ne$le & a s+le ?read4 ,9 ! end ,i look$ eag]ly = ! ne$le rooms4 ,illu/ration3 8,,! ,,t\rney0 ,,banquet ,,clo? ,design reproduc+ a m$ival pa9t+ 9 ,t\rnai1 execut$ 9 ,v5ise lace by #aj work]s 9 "o mon?1 m\nt+ & embroid]y by five work]s 9 "o mon?4 ,price 9 ,brussels1 #a1jjj francs ,illu/ration3 8,,arms ,,( ,,ypres0 ,,cu%ion ,,cov] ,,9 ,,v5ise1 ,,) ,,details ,,9 ,,fl&]s ,& ?is 0 ! mo/ rew>d+ "o ,i _h yet visit$4 ,x happ5$ t ! majority ( ! pupils 7 busy on ! details ( a tableclo? rec5tly design$ by ,madame ,all>d1 9 :i* ! l95 c5t] is encircl$ by a family ( little bea/s z gay z any ev] ga!r$ toge!r to *e] a d9n] company4 ,i laugh$ outright1 z a little girl1 h]self laugh+1 held up an exquisitely work$ & mo/ vividly real gr\p ( happy ducks float+ on a pond4 ,! next %[$ h] en*ant+ rabbits1 ano!r h] de]--all along ! l9e !y 7 *uckl+ ov] ! success ( _! p>ticul> pets4 ,!y _h captur$ ! sun%9e & happy motion ( a f>m-y>d _w ) j a ne$le & a s+le l95 ?read6 ,"h1 z at ,erembodeghem1 only l95 ?read is us$1 because ?o x is m difficult to h&le1 x produces a f9] & /rong] lace ?an cotton4 ,aft] sev]al mon?s 7x took six mon?s to execute ! fir/ clo? ( ?is design7 ! details w\ld be assembl$ & jo9$ by special work]s1 foll[+ ! l>ge pap] patt]n ! si/]s 7 n[ spread+ across a table1 :i* _h be5 s5t d[n to ,opbrakel f ! room ( design at ,brussels4 ,& ! f9i%$ clo?1 z delightful z an e>ly naive tape/ry ) its smil+ animals1 w\ld be s5t to ! ,committee = sale4 ,opbrakel /&s unque/ionably fir/ 9 ,belgium 9 ! production ( figures 9 ,po9t de ,v5ise4 ,dur+ ! w>1 its work]s h repeat$ sev]al times = ! ,committee _! beautiful 8,fables de ,la ,fonta9e0 s]ies ( m$allions1 z well z ^? :i* repres5t s *>m+ly 8,little ,r$ ,rid+-,hood10 8,puss 9 ,boots10 8,! ,sleep+ ,beauty10 & o!r mu* lov$ fairy-tale figures4 ,^! m$allions h be5 sold sep>ately z doilies1 or h be5 comb9$ ) ,fl&]s lace or l95 9 h&some clo?s4 ,x 0 fa/ gr[+ d>k1 & ! #abe girls began fold+ _! patt]ns1 & c>efully wrapp+ _! delicately pictur$ little rabbits & ducks to keep !m clean till ! morr[2 maids appe>$ ) du/-pans & brooms1 & we ga!r$ up our skirts & /ept out into ! c\rty>d4 ,z we cross$ x 9 ! d>k & ! ra9 x 0 difficult to refuse ! fur!r hospitality ( ^! si/]s1 :o w\ld h kept me = ! night4 ,,ix ,,li$ek]ke ,! ,la/ ,lace ,/ronghold ( ,brabant ,9 ! c\rt 9 front ( ! big brick conv5t build+ ) its odd little /eeple1 two si/]s1 skirts tuck$ up1 & pails swung ov] _! %\ld]s1 ,*9ese fa%ion1 7 ab\t to beg9 ! ,saturday scrubb+4 ,madame ,kef]-,mali & ,i 7 on our way to ,li$ek]ke1 ! pr9cipal rema9+ lace c5t] 9 ,brabant1 & _h /opt 9 ?is less important village ( ,heckelgem = a look at ! conv5t s*ool op5$ n9e ye>s ago4 ,9 ! village itself we _h f\nd ab\t #aej ( ! #b1jjj inhabitants busy ) _! ne$les1 = ?is is di/9ctly a ne$le-lace commune1 produc+ a fairly good quality ( ,v5ise4 ,:i* means t !re are z yet no local mills1 & ?o an adjac5t mat* factory has already attract$ a numb] ( ,heckelgem girls1 mo/ ( ! wom5 are /ill cont5t to sp5d _! "t mak+ ,v5ise1 :i* !y take to ! conv5t1 to be sold !re to ,brussels or o!r ag5ts4 ,! conv5t class-rooms 7 w>m & *e]y2 f]n baskets hung f ! ceil+s & e w9d[ 0 gay ) pott$ plants4 ,practically all ! village *ildr5 7 ga!r$ inside1 & s9ce x 0 #aa o'clock :5 we arriv$1 7 happily engag$ 9 dr9k+ _! daily ,comit ,national cup ( cocoa & 9 eat+ ! good :ite biscuit t goes ) x4 ,saturday morn+ is m5d+ "t & on ! girls' desks ,i saw m ( ^? amaz+ pat*work socks & /ock+s1 ! result ( ?ree or f\r ye>s' weekly attempts to hold !m toge!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,sc>f ,,express+ ,,gratitude ,,( ,,belgium ,,to ,,holl&1 ,,pres5t$ ,,to ,h4,m4 ,,que5 ,,wilhelm9a ,execut$ by #cj work]s 9 eight mon?s ,9 ! advanc$ lace class-room1 ?irty girls1 betwe5 ?irte5 & sixte51 7 work+ ) cotton ?read on ,v5ise ins]tions & on details = l>g] pieces4 ,!y _h come at #h o'clock t morn+1 a m humane beg9n+ h\r ?an mo/ s*ools all[1 & w\ld rema9 z long z !re 0 daylight--loop+ & weav+ ) a ne$le & s+le ?read4 ,i /opt beside ,rosalie1 :o 0 mak+ a pretty fl[] detail = a cu%ion cov]4 ,%e _h begun x five days be=e & hop$ to f9i%1 & receive ! sev5 francs %e 0 all[$ = x1 t night4 ,on ! table 0 a pile ( *airbacks 9 ,v5ise1 ) figure c5t]s & surr\nd+ g>l&s ( fl[]s all connect$ by ! b>s *>act]iz+ ?is lace--an ord] = a ,brussels deal]1 :o _h rec5tly (f]$ fifty-two francs ea* = !m4 ,! si/]s 7 excit$ & happy ov] ?is new price1 :i* 0 consid]ably m ?an any?+ ,heckelgem has hi!rto be5 able to comm&1 "o & a half francs a day hav+ be5 ! av]age wage ( ! be/ work]s4 ,a little f>!r to ! s\? & /ill 9 ,brabant1 ?o x lies ne> ! ,fl&]s bord]1 is ! mu* bett] kn[n conv5t ( ,li$ek]ke1 :i* boa/s an unbrok5 record ( sixty ye>s ( lace-mak+1 & :i* be=e ! w> receiv$ a ye>ly subsidy ( #hjj francs f ! 8,amies de la ,d5telle40 ,z we walk$ beside ! pretty or*>d & vegetable g>d51 bright ) purple cabbages1 t =m ! entrance c\rt1 t[>d ! r impressive r$-brick build+s1 aga9 ) _! odd m9iature /eeple1 ,i saw ! great arms ( a ,dut* w9dmill turn+ lazily some:]e 9 ! re>4 ,& ne>] ! door1 (f at ! left 9 a side c\rt1 a w>-kit*5 ) til$ floor & unc]ta9 ro(1 :]e hundr$s ( ! village poor /ill 7 com+ = _! daily p9t ( s\p4 ,( ! #d1jjj inhabitants z _m z #b1ijj 7 =c$ on to ! s\p-l9e dur+ ! occupation4 ,?is1 !n1 0 "o ( ! important & successful conv5t s*ools ( ,belgium2 b 9 ,janu>y1 #aiai1 x 0 9 a mu* sadd] plight ?an ! little neighbor+ s*ool at ,heckelgem4 ,!re 0 no coal1 n a class 0 9 session1 n a *ild at "w ) h] bobb9s4 ,at #d o'clock 9 ! aft]noon1 on ,monday1 ,octob] #bh1 :5 !re 7 betwe5 #hjj & #ijj *ildr51 among !m #ajj lace-work]s1 ga!r$ 9 ! v>i\s class-rooms1 ,g]man (fic]s _h appe>$ to ann\nce t by #g o'clock ! rooms mu/ be cle>$ ( bo? tea*]s & *ildr54 ,i _h already _h _m demon/rations ( :at tak+ possession ( s*ool-rooms meant4 ,x 0 n necess>y t ! si/]s %\ld lead me f room to room1 po9t+ out ?is or t ru9$ wall1 or casem5t torn away1 or vacant space :]e ! b5*es or *airs burn$ z firewood1 once /ood2 b ,i foll[$ !m ab\t = _! own sakes4 ,!re 0 at lea/ a k9d ( com=t 9 be+ able to furni% pro( ( ^! outrages to somebody4 ,"o small room 0 undi/urb$1 b x 0 a sadd] room ?an any ( ! o!rs4 ,! prim>y lace-class _h occupi$ x1 & sev]al r[s ( little girls 7 le>n+ to make _! fir/ fl[]s & leaves :5 ! enemy drove !m out4 ,! baby *airs & ! cu%ions 7 j z !y left !m1 ?o ?ick du/ dull$ ! blue ( ! l95 cov]s & ! t9y unf9i%$ :ite roses & t5drils held by ! ru/y p9s4 ,"o w\ld h lik$ to br+ ! enemy mo!rs into ?is room ) its baby *airs1 & its du/-cov]$ unf9i%$ roses4 ,9 ! l>ge adjo9+ hall ,si/] ,m4 k9dly came to "w at a table1 on ,application1 "o ( ! laces = :i* ,li$ek]ke has be5 especially di/+ui%$4 ,be=e ! ,engli% inv5tion1 e>ly 9 #ahjj1 ( ma*9e-made tulle1 :i* _h an incalculable influ5ce on ! developm5t ( ! lace-indu/ry1 all me%es _h to be made ei!r ) ! ne$le or ) bobb9s4 ,! factory sub/itute = ^! difficult processes won in/ant favor1 & ) ! g5]al public ! m swiftly made & *eap] tulle ,application1 supplant$ ! exquisite ,po9t d',anglet]re1 :i* x imitat$4 ,li$ek]ke1 = example1 _h begun its lace c>e] ) ,po9t d',anglet]re1 & 9 *ang+ lat] to ,application1 0 m]ely respond+ to popul> dem&4 ,its sixty ye>s ( lace-hi/ory reads3 ,po9t d',anglet]re1 ,application1 ,rosal9e4 ,^! ?+s ,madame ,kef]-,mali expla9$1 z ,si/] ,m4 0 plac+ h] squ>e ( blue pap] on ! l95 ( ! table cu%ion1 & !n ! bobb9-made b\quet1 wrong side up on ! blue squ>e1 p9n+ x c>efully & smoo?ly ?r\gh ! pap] to ! cu%ion4 ,ov] ?is %e /ret*$ h] sc>f l5g? ( tulle4 ,i 0 surpriz$ at ! "t & pa9/ak+ ef=t %e gave to ^! simple op]ations1 until ,i saw lat] ! effect ( ! slighte/ c>elessness on ! f9i%$ fl\nce4 ,almo/ any clev] ne$lewoman c jo9 a fl[] to a piece ( tulle--b only an arti/ c produce a beautiful sc>f or veil 9 ,application4 ,once ! b\quet 0 prop]ly plac$ & p9n$1 ,si/] ,m4 began to sew1 lift+ ! tulle lightly ) ea* /it*1 & smoo?ly atta*+ all ! edges1 = ?is b\quet 0 be+ appliqud on ! body ( ! sc>f4 ,_h x =m$ ! bord] "o edge w\ld h rema9$ free4 ,li$ek]ke ,conv5t1 to :i* "s #bjj ( ! villag]s br+ _! laces & :i* once made little else ?an ,application 7_m beautiful robes & fl\nces & sc>fs h gone out f ! commune & ! s*ool71 n[ makes comp>atively little ( x2 = dur+ ! la/ six ye>s ,p>is & o!r m>kets h ask$ = ,rosal9e4 ,x is to be hop$ t ?is small quantity may be cont9u$1 & t ! lace _w may /ill w9 at lea/ a few pieces ye>ly ( ! e>li]1 m exquisite ,po9t d',anglet]re4 ,po9t d',anglet]re1 s nam$ because ( its great popul>ity 9 ,engl&1 rea*$ its height 9 beauty & 9 favor dur+ ! sev5te5? c5tury1 :5 x occupi$ ! tal5t & en]gy ( all ! lace-work]s ( ,brussels4 ,x diff]s f ,ne$le ,po9t1 9 :i* bo? fl[]s & me% are made ) ! ne$le4 ,x is "o ( ! lovelie/ ( all laces1 comb9+ 9 r>e beauty1 ri* b\quets & arabesques & birds ( f9e/ bobb9 "w1 ) a frail transp>5t ne$le me%1 ! fl[]s !mselves becom+ frequ5tly m light & delicate ?r\gh ! introduction ( *>m+ly v>i$ ne$le-work$ op5 spaces4 ,c]ta9 work]s make ! fl[]s1 & o!rs ! connect+ me%4 ,if "o c imag9e ! s(tness ( a k9d ( sublimat$ or diaphan\s velvet1 add$ to ! fragility ( an airy & cobwebby lace1 "o may h "s idea ( ! effect ( good ,po9t d',anglet]re4 ,& if "o w\ld possess a coll> or a fl\nce1 "o %\ld buy x quickly1 = ,po9t d',anglet]re is go+ ! way ( ! o!r difficult & exquisite po9ts4 ,su* villages z ,k]xk51 ,li$ek]ke1 ,de/elb]g5 7ne> ,gh5t71 & ^? ( ! ,alo/ region /ill make occasional pieces4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bobb9 ,,laces 7#a7 ,mal9es 7#b7 ,application1 fl[]s sewn on tulle 7#c7 ,du*esse1 ) ne$le-po9t ins]tions ,illu/ration3 ,,application ,,details ,,to ,,be ,,sew$ ,,on ,,tulle ,upp] fl[] %[s op5 spaces left by bobb9 work] = ne$le work]2 l[] fl[] %[s bo? bobb9 & ne$le "w complet$ ,! m ord9>y ,po9t de ,fl&res1 or ,fl&]s1 s g5]ally produc$ to-day1 has ! same composition z ,po9t d',anglet]re1 s9ce 9 x bobb9-"w fl[]s are jo9$ by a ne$le-me%4 ,& ev5 ?o co>s] & less complicat$ ?an ,po9t d',anglet]re1 ,po9t de ,fl&res is also difficult to make1 & %\ld be mu* bett] paid4 ,!re are innum]able diff]5ces 9 quality1 & _m ways 9 :i* ?is lace may be employ$4 ,! ,committee has us$ x *iefly 9 elegant table c5t]s & clo?s1 9 lamp-%ades & 9 v>i\s articles to embelli% a draw+-or d9+-room4 ,& ?is summ] ( #aiai x is be+ us$ ) mu* success by important ,fr5* h\ses z trimm+ = da9ty n9on und]clo?+4 ,n9ete5? c5tury ,po9t de ,fl&res1 !n1 is little m ?an a comm]cial "n = a v co>se k9d ( ,po9t d',anglet]re4 ,?is ,po9t de ,fl&res mu/ n be confus$ ) ,old ,fl&]s or ,antik1 ! anci5t bobb9-lace exp]i5c+ a happy revival at pres5t4 ,old ,fl&]s is1 l ,cluny1 made entirely ) bobb9s & ) uncut ?reads2 9 o!r words1 9 s+le l5g?s1 & n 9 sep>ate or cut details4 ,li$ek]ke1 !n1 fir/ made ,po9t d',anglet]re = :i*1 aft] a c]ta9 "t1 x sub/itut$ ,application1 *ang+ aga9 ab\t two ye>s be=e ! w> to ,rosal9e1 sudd5ly become a popul> lace4 ,rosal9e is n v diff]5t 9 appe>ance f ! f9] v>ieties ( ,bruges2 9 fact1 x employs mu* ! same te*nique1 & is made z is ,bruges ) bobb9s1 9 small pieces1 :i* are lat] jo9$ by special work]s4 ,a d5tellire :o c make f9e ,bruges c usually make ,rosal9e4 ,ea* small piece is compos$ ( elaborately int]lac+ fl[]s & leaves & arabesques1 )\t a connect+ me%1 b jo9$ by brides or b>s1 ) a picot edge4 ,sometimes ! t9y incru/ations call$ pe>ls1 common to ,burano lace1 are add$1 to fur!r ornam5t ! ri*ly cov]$ gr\nd4 ,i wat*$ a ,rosal9e cu%ion1 on :i* ! patt]n ( an arabesque detail 0 p9n$1 & ,si/] ,a41 z %e began to %ift 9 pairs ! f\rte5 bobb9s ne$$ to execute x2 "o pair1 ! voyageurs1 7 cont9ually travel+ f "r to left & back aga9 z %e wove ! flat p>ts ( ! leaves & blossoms4 ,! ,rosal9e te*nique is p>ticul>ly difficult1 s9ce ! p9s mu/ be cont9ually & rapidly *ang$ z ! work]1 ) a cro*et-hook1 lifts ! ?read to pass h] bobb9 ?r\gh 9 ! *>act]i/ic loop /it*4 ,?is delicate op]ation1 con/antly repeat$1 /ra9s bo? eyes & n]ves4 ,! p9s are plac$ along ! outside edge ( ! fl[]s1 in/ead ( inside1 z 9 ,bruges1 :i* produces ! picot or loop$-edge effect ( ,rosal9e4 ,9 ,bruges ! fl[] edges are ev54 ,i turn$ f ! arabesques j beg9n+ to gr[ on ! cu%ion1 to a lovely little f9i%$ detail1 ab\t f\r in*es squ>e1 "o ( sev]al 9 a box :i* 0 to hold !m till !y c\ld be jo9$ to make a sc>f4 ,x _h tak5 sev5 days ( ?irte5 h\rs ea* to make ?is f\r by f\r piece1 :i* meant t ! maximum a skill$ work] c\ld e>n 9 execut+ x 0 ab\t two francs a day4 ,! ,li$ek]ke conv5t s*ool does n accept *ildr5 "u twelve = m ?an two complete aft]noons a week & = m ?an "o h\r ea* ( ! o!r days1 ^! h\rs be+ l5g!n$ gradually until ! girl ( sixte5 gives h] entire "t to h] lace4 ,! si/]s hope t once !y f9d coal & ?read & c put _! class-room 9 ord]1 !y may aga9 h #ajj pupils1 & t ! village may cont9ue to c\nt at lea/ #bjj good d5tellires4 ,x ,,h]zele ,a ,*teau ( ,refuge ,!re are c]ta9 *teaux 9 ,belgium t w be rememb]$ ?r\gh\t ?is c5tury z h>bors ( refuge2 !y d>$ n fl>e beacons f _! ro(s1 b dur+ f\r d>k ye>s1 p ( ! ne>by communes knew t day & night lights burn$ !re = !m4 ,! *teau ( ! ,comte du ,p>c 0 su* a "o1 a prop]ty ly+ on ! edge ( ! village ( ,h]zele1 s\? ( ,alo/1 :i*1 ?o ! h\se itself is unpret5ti\s1 embraces a lovely p>k & wood1 & f :i*1 incid5tally1 ! ,g]mans cut #a1jjj trees4 ,x is no long] only ! e/ate ( ! du ,p>cs1 x is ! lov$ %elt] ( e villag] accu/om$ to hurry t[>d x 9 sad or p]il\s h\rs4 ,! morale ( ! entire region 0 su/a9$ by ! k t ! p ( ! *teau _h n left1 z !y easily might h1 = _! saf] ,brussels home1 9 ! zone ( civil adm9i/ration1 :]e if n free1 !y w\ld at lea/ h be5 less imprison$1 b _h *os5 to rema9 9 ! milit>y zone1 utt]ly cut (f f _! relatives & ! re/ ( ,belgium4 ,!y might h consid]$ sev]al reasons suffici5tly important to call !m away 7! ,b\rgme/re ( ,h]zele _h f\nd at lea/ "o1 8 ill-heal?72 among o!r ?+s _! *teau 0 z yet practically un9habitable4 ,x _h be5 begun only a %ort "t be=e ! w> broke out1 & ) ! s\nd+ ( ! fir/ al>m ! workm5 _h ru%$ out to report to _! (fic]s1 leav+ electric cords dangl+1 unm\nt$ fixtures /&+ aga9/ ! walls1 & nei!r hot wat] nor heat+ sy/ems in/all$4 ,madame told me lat] ( h] desp]ate & amus+ ef=ts to fa/5 locks on ! mo/ important doors4 ,z %e & h] husb& 7 debat+ h[ !y might arrange "o l>ge room 9 ! left w+ z _! s+le g5]al liv+-room !y c\ld already see ! villag]s com+ anxi\sly along ! tree-l9$ av5ue & across ! p>k to inquire if !y 7 /ill !re4 8,aft] ! fir/ tr\bl$ que/ions10 ,monsieur said1 8ev5 if we _h n already decid$ we mu/ /ay1 x w\ld h be5 q impossible to g away40 ,! soldi]s ( ! village 7 leav+ ) sc>cely "t = good-bys2 ,madame und]/ood ! fe>s ( ! wom5 :o came to ! *teau = com=t2 h] only son1 too1 a brave1 h&some boy1 0 (f to jo9 ! colors--h] brave1 h&some boy1 :o n[ lies buri$ n f> f ! ,ys]4 ,9 ,octob] ! victori\s ,g]mans pu%$ s\?w>d1 & f ! #ad? to ! #ah?1 %rapnel fell l ra9 on ! p>k1 b ! *teau escap$ unh>m$4 ,!n ?ree (fic]s ( ! occupy+ army rode up on horseback1 revolv]s 9 h&1 dem&+ t ! ,comte pres5t himself imm$iately4 ,madame foll[$ h] husb&1 n kn[+ :at to expect4 ,to _! fir/ ?reat1 ,monsieur repli$ calmly1 8,i d n l ^? objects10 & aft] a mom5t's hesitation ! (fic]s l[]$ _! weapons4 ,!n !y dem&$ gu>anties t !y w\ld be absolutely safe f attack by any p]son1 ei!r ( ! *teau or ! village4 8,i c1 ( c\rse1 speak = my *teau10 ,monsieur answ]$1 8b ,i c n be responsible = ! villag]s if !y are pu%$ too f>40 ,^! villag]s !mselves told me lat] t !y 7 conv9c$ x 0 only ! pres5ce ( ! ,comte 7! bullies 7 frequ5tly s]vile be=e titles & p[]less be=e fe>lessness7 t sav$ ,h]zele f de/ruction4 8,we always expect$ ! wor/10 !y said2 89 ! e>ly days1 :5 ! ,bo*es light$ a great fire 9 ! wood1 we ru%$ to ! *teau1 believ+ x 0 burn+40 ,f ! beg9n+1 ,madame & h] two daught]s look$ = "s con/ructive aid !y might give _! wom51 some?+ m ?an ! g5]al relief furni%$ by ! ,comit ,national4 ,( ! #b1ejj inhabitants ( ! village1 #a1gjj 7 soon on ! li/s ( ! helpless or de/itute2 among ^! 7 _m tub]culosis victims4 ,! *teau liv+-room became fir/ a clo?+ bureau1 :]e daily all sorts ( g>m5ts1 s5t f ,am]ica1 7 di/ribut$4 ,madame engag$ "s ( ! wom5 ( ! village to pat* & re-fa%ion ^!1 & ) c]ta9 sums ( money t succe$$ 9 rea*+ h] f "t to "t f an ,am]ican lady :o _h 8adopt$0 ,h]zele1 %e 0 able to pur*ase new mat]ials & (f] fur!r sav+ employm5t4 ,i d n "k ! ,am]ican lady1 b if %e c\ld h se5 ,madame's eyes z %e told me ( :at x meant1 imprison$ z !y 71 to receive ^! gifts f "s "o outside :o rememb]$ !m1 ,i d n d\bt %e w\ld h felt suffici5tly rew>d$4 ,9 #aiaf1 :5 ,i 0 9 ,belgium z a memb] ( ! ,commission = ,relief 9 ,belgium1 ! ,g]mans prev5t$ my go+ ne> ,h]zele1 or any po9t 9 ! zone ( direct milit>y prep>ation1 s ,i c\ld foll[ ! "w ( ,monsieur & ,madame only ?r\gh ! ,brussels ,lace ,committee1 :i* _h itself great difficulty 9 keep+ connect$ ) !m4 ,!y made _! judgm5ts f ! ev] increas+ quantities & improv$ quality ( ! laces t someh[ came ?r\gh4 ,! room 9 ! *teau 0 ! lace (fice n only = ,h]zele1 b = elev5 additional villages1 :]e betwe5 #b1ejj & #c1jjj girls & wom51 enc\rag$ by ! ,committee support--its designs & ?read & money--7 busy ) _! ne$les & bobb9s2 = :ile ?is is *iefly a ne$le-"w di/rict1 l>ge quantities ( bobb9 laces are also made4 ,to be sure1 none ( ^! laces is sup]ior1 b !y are good1 & m>ketable4 ,!y include ,cluny1 ,du*esse de ,bruxelles1 a k9d ( co>se ,fl&]s 7:]e ! fl[]s are made ) bobb9s & ! me% ) ! ne$le71 ,v5ise1 & ,rosal9e2 & ( ^! ! ,fl&]s & ,v5ise are mo/ important4 ,at times x 0 n difficult = ! d5tellires to take or s5d _! f9i%$ lace to ! *teau1 at o!rs !y 7 ?reat5$ ) f9es & imprisonm5t if !y 7 discov]$ try+ to get x !re4 ,to ref] to b "o in/ance1 ! facteur ( ! village ?ree miles di/ant 0 f9$ sev5ty-five francs :5 caught on ! way ) 8 pieces4 ,! ,g]mans 7 do+ _! utmo/ always1 to atta* lace-mak]s to _! ,spitz5 ,c5trale1 & despite ! int]national agreem5t :i* engag$ _! protection ( ! "w ( ! ,brussels ,lace ,committee1 !y int]f]$ ) & ob/ruct$ its "w aga9 & aga94 ,at "o po9t !y insi/$ t all deliv]ies to ! ,committee %\ld be made ?r\gh !m1 & t !y be paid #a p] c5t4 on ! value1 9 gold1 = transmission1 :]e transmission1 un=tunately1 only too (t5 spell$ = !m ret5tion4 ,9 ! village ,madame & h] daught]s w5t f h\se to h\se1 in/ruct+ & com=t+4 ,! days ( ! deportations 7 m t]rible ?an any o!rs4 ,9 rememb]+ t fir/ hide\s deportation night 9 ,h]zele1 "o rememb]s1 too1 t e>ly 9 ! w> ,c>d9al ,m]ci] said t :ile !re 0 once a "t1 :5 to make p believe1 we felt we mu/ height51 or embelli% ! cold facts1 t n[ 9 ord] t !y %\ld believe1 we mu/ )hold "p ( ! tru?4 ,t fir/ night1 m5 & boys 7 torn f _! b$s & h]d$ into ! s*ool1 f !re to be c>ri$ (f 9 cattle-c>s to ,g]many4 ,!re 0 nei!r light nor heat1 & 9 ! cold & ! d>kness1 ! tortur$ little village broke into a great cry ( lam5tation1 :ile ! *teau 0 fill$ ) wives & mo!rs seek+ com=t4 ,lat]1 :5 ! activi/ tr\bles became acute1 ! two daught]s held meet+s ev5 9 ! cab>ets to urge loyalty to a unit$ ,belgium4 ,!y believe t n "o p]son 9 _! entire village c be said to h work$ = ! enemy1 except :5 deport$ bodily1 or o!rwise co]c$4 ,someh[ ! ye>s pass$1 & !n "o day1 ! #af? ( ,septemb]1 #aiag1 bits ( :ite pap] fell l sn[ f ! cl\ds4 ,! family ru%$ out to ga!r !m & f\nd ,"l ,nor?cliffe's celebrat$ po/]s1 8,! ,fir/ ,million10 repres5t+ a va/ multitude on ! m>*1 ! /atue ( lib]ty 9 ! backgr\nd1 ! fields ( ,france 9 ! =egr\nd1 & a cont9u\s bridge ( %ips connect+ !m4 ,?is sn[fall 0 foll[$ by o!rs1 & ea* br\ght hope4 ,f9ally1 9 ,octob]1 #aiah1 ! ,g]mans1 kn[+ ! ,alli$ ,army ( ,lib]ation 0 almo/ ^u !m1 aga9 pull$ _! guns up into ! *teau gr\nds1 b 9 ! f9al fight+1 z 9 ! e>lie/1 ! h\se someh[ escap$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,w$d+ ,,gift ,,( ,,mr4 ,,hoov] ,,to ,,mrs4 ,,page ,execut$ 9 ,v5ise & ,fl&]s lace by #cj wom5 work+ ?ree mon?s4 ,am]ican eagles ) outspread w+s1 protect+ ! ,belgian ,lion en*a9$ 9 ! f\r corn]s ,illu/ration3 ,,fl&]s--,,ne$le ,,me%1 ,,bobb9 ,,fl[]s ,:5 ,i rea*$ ,h]zele1 9 ,janu>y1 #aiai1 ! wide p>k 0 beautiful & /ill1 gre5 ?+s 7 spr\t+ b5ea? ! trees1 !re 7 a few birds2 to a /rang] !re 0 little evid5ce ( ! t]rible ye>s4 ,b inside1 9 ! cold1 unf9i%$ hall1 ! electric cords /ill dangl$2 ev]y?+ 0 z ! ,belgian workm5 _h left x f\r & a half ye>s be=e4 ,& 9 ! s+le liv+-room at ! left1 rudely furni%$1 b includ+ ?r\gh l>ge w9d[s ! beauty ( ! p>k1 !re 7 /ill ! w>-"t desk & long table ) ! piles ( tr\s]s & %irts at "o end1 & ! rolls ( :ite lace at ! o!r4 ,i %ook out a sc>f ( ,du*esse de ,bruxelles ( fl[] & leaf patt]n1 ) insets 9 ne$le "w1 & sev]al wide fl\nces ( ,fl&]s lace1 ( ! same patt]n ,i _h se5 us$ 9 ! *>m+ lamp-%ades on sale 9 ! ,committee room at ,brussels4 ,!re 7 also rolls ( ,bruges1 & ,rosal9e1 ,application1 & ,po9t d',anglet]re4 ,illu/ration3 ,,v5ise ,,lace ,,c5t]1 ,,bord] ,,( ,,val5ci5nes ,lace execut$ 9 ,fl&]s by #dj wom5 9 two mon?s2 embroid]y & m\nt+ 9 ,brussels by f\r wom5 9 ?ree mon?s ,illu/ration3 ,,val5ci5nes1 ,,squ>e ,,me% ,z ,i exam9$ !m1 ,monsieur got out 8 records & discu/ ! future ( 8 lace-work]s4 8,i am conv9c$ !y w be happy to cont9ue 9 ?is di/rict1 if only !y c be sure ( a liv+ wage4 ,& ap>t f o!r det]m9+ factors1 to make t1 !y mu/ le>n to execute laces ( bett] quality4 ,we ne$1 above all1 a s*ool :i* w (f] along ) its c\rses 9 practical lace-mak+1 tra9+ 9 design4 ,dur+ ! w> we _h _m beautiful designs f ! ,committee1 b ea* "t we 7 cut (f f !m we realiz$ our helplessness4 ,9 "o ( ! villages ! patt]ns are drawn by a furniture-mak]4 ,"o reason = ! wret*$ condition ( ! work]s be=e ! w> 0 _! entire dep5d5ce on ! p>ticul> lace deal] :o furni%$ !m _! patt]ns & _! ?read1 & :o1 ( c\rse1 protect$ 8 models by copyright4 ,! old1 unprotect$ designs1 :i* may be copi$ by any "o1 are little 9 dem&1 & dur+ ! process ( g5]ations ( recopy+1 _m ( !m h s greatly det]iorat$ z to become sc>cely recognizable4 ,if our wom5 7 tra9$ !y c\ld re/ore ^!1 &1 :at is m important1 "s ( !m1 at lea/1 c\ld inv5t new ones40 ,i ask$ :at x w\ld co/ to f\nd a s*ool & support x dur+ its fir/ ye>4 8,p]haps #bj1jjj or #be1jjj francs2 we might hope t ! ,/ate w\ld und]take su* a "w1 b ) its pres5t ov]:elm+ burd51 x is a "q if ! ,gov]nm5t c occupy itself ) lace ne$s4 ,if x c\ld be />t$ by private initiative1 & prove successful1 ,i believe !re is no d\bt t ! ,gov]nm5t w\ld be will+ lat] to subsidize x40 ,madame br\ght a picture po/-c>d f ! mantel1 ( ?ree bro!rs :o _h be5 deport$1 two ( :om _h n return$4 ,o!r m5 7 drift+ back f ,metz1 :]e mo/ ( ! dports f ,h]zele _h be5 = ov] two & a half ye>s1 b ^! two w\ld n return1 = !y _h be5 froz5 to dea?4 ,i und]/ood at once1 = ,i rememb]$ ! sixty-five m5 ) black arms & legs :o _h be5 8return$0 to ! ,brussels ,hospital 9 #aiag4 8,no02 ,madame look$ at ! portrait ( h] boy1 ) ! ,belgian colors above x & a vase ( fl[]s 9 front1 & !n aga9 at ! little po/-c>d2 8,no10 %e said simply1 8,i h no desire yet to g to ,brussels4 ,i pref] to rema9 "h ) my p1 :]e we may /ill1 f "t to "t1 weep toge!r40 ,,xi ,,gh5t ,a ,lace ,que5 ( ,long ,ago ,( ! cities ,i visit$ dur+ ?ree mon?s' cont9u\s travel 9 ,belgium foll[+ ! armi/ice1 ,gh5t appe>$ to me to be attack+ h] problems ) greate/ spe$ & vigor4 ,brave old ,burgh] city ( canals & mell[ build+s & bell-t[]s1 ?is ,flemi% capital is at ! same "t an active1 mod]n1 comm]cial c5t]2 :i* expla9s :y ,bruges has be5 able to w9 f h] ! title %e once pr\dly held ( 8,que5 ( ,lace ,cities40 ,! lace hi/ory ( ,gh5t beg9s ) ! lace hi/ory ( ,belgium1 9 ! sixte5? c5tury2 b h] great p]iod dates f ! sev5te5? c5tury & ! introduction ( ! epo*-mak+ me% ( ,val5ci5nes4 ,! activity ( h] wom5 & girls1 foll[+ ! appe>ance ( ?is new lace1 surpass$ any?+ %e _h hi!rto kn[n2 x 0 n long be=e ! music ( #a1jjj1jjj bobb9s rose to meet ! riot\s peal+ ( h] bells4 ,9 ! sixte5? c5tury ,mal9es _h undisput$ fir/ place 9 lace2 ,gh5t n[ out-/ript h]4 ,"o wond]s if "p ( ! fasc9ation ( ?is city = ! m5 ! ,unit$ ,/ates s5t !re 9 #ahad1 to make peace ) ,engl&1 & :o1 aft] six mon?s' l+]+1 _h to be urg$ to return home1 lay 9 its click+ bobb9s & ! joy\s g>l&s t blossom$ "u !m4 ,!re is a portrait 9 ! ,htel de ,ville1 :]e "o may see ! ,empress ,m>ie-,?rse1 we>+ ! m>vel\s ,val5ci5nes & ! ,ne$le ,po9t robe pres5t$ to h] by ! ,canton de ,g& 9 #agdc4 ,& sc>cely m ?an a c5tury lat]1 9 #ahec1 ! city made its la/ gift ( simil> magnific5ce--ano!r robe1 valu$ at #bj1jjj francs1 on :i* #hj1jjj bobb9s 7 employ$ unceas+ly dur+ six mon?s1 & ?is "t (f]$ to ! ,du*ess ( ,brabant1 ,m>ie-,h5riette4 ,!re 7 no succe$+ _w-/irr+ gifts ( lace because ,gh5t _h begun to ?9k ( o!r ?+s1 ( indu/rial & comm]cial developm5t1 & z %e advanc$ 9 ^!1 ! art ( lace-mak+ decl9$1 until to-day x has ceas$ to exi/4 ,h[ev]1 9 ! surr\nd+ communes 7! region c\nts fifty7 !re are /ill p]haps #b1jjj d5tellires mak+ mo/ ( ! bobb9 & ne$le v>ieties1 ! be/ among !m be+ ,val5ci5nes1 ,fl&]s1 ,du*esse1 ,ne$le ,po9t1 ,bruges & ,rosal9e4 ,! ,comtesse de ,b\sies1 *airman ( ! ,gh5t ,lace ,committee dur+ ! w>1 did h] be/ to enc\rage ! "w 9 ^! outly+ di/ricts1 & 0 able to help1 9 addition1 _m ne$y wom5 9 ! city itself4 ,9 #aiag1 = in/ance1 ,cel9e appe>$ at ! (fice to ask = ?read4 ,%e 0 tw5ty ye>s old1 & be=e ! w> _h be5 "o ( ! #aj1jjj wom5 employ$ 9 ! l95 sp9n+ mills2 h] "m 0 ill ) tub]culosis1 h] fa!r )\t "w1 & also ill2 !re 7 five y\ng] *ildr54 8,i "k ,i h n prop] f+]s10 %e said1 z %e held out h] r\gh h&s1 8b if y w only promise ,i may br+ my lace1 ,i believe ,i c le>n40 ,! ,committee believ$ ?is1 too1 & because %e work$ ) intellig5ce & ) almo/ fev]i% eag]ness1 %e 0 soon assur$ ! m9imum wage ( ?ree francs a week1 & lat] ! l>g] sums made possible ) ! ,committee's success4 ,%ortly be=e ! armi/ice1 ! "m di$1 & only la/ week ,cel9e came aga9 to ! desk to ask anxi\sly if ! ,committee c\ld n someh[ arrange1 t ev5 aft] !y _h disb&$1 %e might cont9ue to make lace4 ,h] fa!r _h f\nd a little "w2 %e want$ to rema9 at home :]e %e might at lea/ direct ! y\ng] *ildr51 & %e c\ld1 if only %e 7 sure ( h] w>-"t wage4 ,c\ld n ! ,committee promise ! sale ( h] laces8 ,(t5 repeat$ "q dur+ ^! c\rage-te/+ days1 :5 em]g5cy organizations are break+ up1 & poor wom5 d n yet see :at is to replace !m4 ,among ! m important communes on ! ,gh5t committee li/1 ,i f\nd ,oo/]zele1 ,baelegem1 & ,l&sant]1 all ?ree produc+ a good quality ( ,du*esse1 ,fl&]s1 ,ne$le ,po9t & ,v5ise1 & c\nt+ toge!r ab\t #afj lace-mak]s2 ,gys5zeele & ,de/elb]g51 :i* make f9e ,fl&]s1 & ,du*esse1 ,knessel>s1 ) #bej ,cluny work]s2 ,asp] ) #fj 9 ,v5ise2 ! conv5ts ( ,s*eldew9kle & ,eecke1 ! fir/ occupi$ ) ,v5ise1 ! second ) ,ne$le ,po9t & ,du*esse1 :i* x sells to an ,am]ican h\se1 & f9ally1 ! l>g] ,deynze di/rict1 includ+ ,vynck1 ,loot5hulle1 ,ma*el91 ! ,val5ci5nes conv5t s*ool at ,ruyssel$e1 & ,ba*te1 ) p]haps #djj lace-mak]s 9 all4 ,i got my ori5tation = ?is la/ s\!rn di/rict f ! ,comtesse d',alcant>a1 :o has be5 indefatigable 9 h] d\ble rle ( *airman ( ,deynze & vice-*airman ( ! regional committee4 ,con/antly ?r\gh\t ! w>1 %e might h be5 se5 />t+ f ! h&some *teau at ,ba*te--"o ( ! mo/ impos+ 9 ,belgium--on bicycle or on foot on h] way to "o ( ! lace villages1 ) ?read & money = ! work]s1 or at night return+ ) ! rolls ( lace :i* %e _h !n to get to ,gh5t & f !re to ,brussels4 ,! ,g]mans nev] succe$$ 9 ob/ruct+ h] "w1 nor t ( h] fa!r & "m1 = _! villag]s & = ! orphans ( ! entire region4 ,wom5 came betwe5 %ells to br+ laces4 ,x 0 a moral help j to be able to talk ab\t _! "w4 ,z ,i cross$ ! moat & pass$ "u ! ar*way1 ,i saw ! spot :]e ! la/ ,alli$ %ell explod$1 kill+ n9ete5 ,g]mans1 :ile ! family & ! #bjj villag]s 9 ! cell>s1 :]e !y _h be5 = two weeks1 escap$ unh>m$4 ,9 fact1 9 all ! ,deynze c\ntry ,i 0 9 ! mid/ ( ! de/ruction accompany+ ! f9al pu% ( ! lib]at+ army1 & 0 vividly rem9d$ ( :at w\ld h happ5$ to ! re/ ( ,belgium _h ! armi/ice be5 fur!r delay$4 ,b already 9 ! p>tially wreck$ villages _m ( ! wom5 _h gone back to _! cu%ions--_! reason-sav+ cu%ions1 = !y furni%$ practically ! only employm5t to be _h1 & h[ev] small ! e>n+s1 !y at lea/ insur$ a few francs a week1 & be/ ( all !y prov$ t some?+ ( ! pa/ p]si/$4 ,9 ,vynck1 a poor little t[n ( #a1gjj p1 ,i f\nd #dj ,val5ci5nes-mak]s1 & he>d t #ajj "y girls 7 be+ taught at home by _! mo!rs4 ,i talk$ ) two maid5 si/]s--"o #fh1 ! o!r #gb--:om ,i spi$ hidd5 beh9d a w9d[-scre5 ( pott$ plants1 work+1 ) #dej bobb9s ea*1 on a k9d ( ,val5ci5nes "o f9ds only on ! cu%ions ( ! pa/ g5]ation4 ,!y c\ld n repeat (t5 en\gh _! gratitude to ! ,committee1 :i* _h be5 pay+ !m #dd francs 7#h4hj7 a met] = _! lace1 s mu* m ?an !y _h receiv$ be=e ! w> f ! ,c\rtrai facteur to :om !y _h sold4 ,!y c\nt$ on mak+ ab\t five met]s dur+ ! w9t] 7#dd wor?71 & !y "w f dawn sometimes till n9e at night4 ,9 a neighbor+ h\se 0 a gr&mo!r ( eighty-"o & h] gr&daught]1 & on ! gr&mo!r's cu%ion su* a cov]+ & re-cov]+ ( bobb9s & lace1 to keep !m spotless4 ,ov] all %e _h spread a l>ge t[el1 b5ea? x a worn napk91 !n a piece ( p9k g+ham1 & bel[ t two remnants ( :ite & blue clo?1 & x seem$ appropriate t ! sn[y treasure1 ,val5ci5nes1 too1 %\ld be reveal$ to me only aft] su* a c]emony ( unveil+ z ?is b5t old woman ( ,vynck p]=m$4 ,i pass$ quickly ?r\gh ,loot5hulle ) its #abe work]s1 :o make1 among o!r v>ieties1 good ,du*esse & ,rosal9e2 & ,hansbeek1 :i* produces a sup]ior ,val5ci5nes2 & ,ruyssel$e1 ) its excell5t s*ool = ,val5ci5nes2 to cross f ! s\? to ,de/elb]g51 :i* lies almo/ directly ea/ ( ,gh5t4 ,all ! pla9 0 :ite "u ! fir/ deep sn[ ( w9t]1 b to enjoy its lovel9ess "o _h to be able to =get ! torn ro(s & fireless he>?s4 ,at ,de/elb]g5 ,i w5t at once to ! ateli] ( ,mme4 ,copp5s1 to :om wom5 ( bo? ,france & ,belgium s5d _! old ,applications & spid]-web me%es1 = re/oration4 ,be=e ! w> %e employ$ sev5ty exp]t lace-mak]s 9 h] s*ool1 n[ %e c dep5d on no m ?an tw5ty--?o !re are "s #ajj less skilful ones 9 ! village4 ,on ?is p>ticul> ,janu>y day ! s*ool 0 empty4 ,z ,mme4 ,copp5s receiv$ me1 %e said1 8,i regret1 ,madame1 b ,i am )\t coal1 & )\t ?read2 ,i h be5 =c$ to close my "w-room2 h[ev]10 %e hesitat$ an in/ant1 8if ,madame does n object to com+ into ! kit*51 %e may yet see ,/phanie1 ! fir/ lace-mak] ( ! village1 at "w40 ,illu/ration3 ,,fan ,,9 ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,execut$ by ?ree wom5 9 six weeks4 8,%ields ( ! ,allies10 design drawn by ,m4 ,kn(f = ! ,lace ,committee ,illu/ration3 ,,eighte5? ,,c5tury ,,m>riage ,,veil ,,9 ,,ne$le-,,po9t1 ,,belong+ ,,to ,,comtesse ,,elizabe? ,d',,oultremont ,x w\ld take #dj work]s ab\t a half ye> to copy ?is veil ,rememb]+ ! gli/5+ %elves & floors ( o!r ,flemi% kit*5s1 ,i did n m9d2 happily n1 = 9 ! end ,/phanie 0 m to me ?an _m villages4 ,%e 0 b5d+ ov] an immaculate cu%ion1 sev5ty-eight & unm>ri$1 & all h] p]son z scrupul\sly neat z h] cu%ion1 f h] odd little peak$ black cro*et cap to ! felt %oes %e _h made h]self4 ,%e 0 weav+ ! flat surfaces ( a da9ty ,fr5* b\quet1 & z ,i /ept t[>d h] *air1 look$ up1 delight$ t "s "o 0 int]e/$ 9 :at %e 0 mak+4 ,:5 ,i pick$ up a ,bruges coll> on ! ne>by table %e tri$ 9 ejaculatory ,flemi% to make me und]/&1 t ev5 ?o %e _h made p>ts ( x1 %e dis[n$ ! :ole z unwor?y ! "n ( lace1 & %e br\ght my eyes back to ! delicate texture ( ! leaves & petals on h] cu%ion4 ,i wi%$ to "k :at ,/phanie 0 gett+ = a day's "w on h] f9e b\quets4 ,%e has be5 mak+ lace = sev5ty ye>s1 is intellig5t & quick1 & h] maximum wage is two c5ts an h\r1 a franc = a day ( t5 h\rs4 ,i ask$ ab\t ! future--%e has ?\ght ( t1 n )\t anxiety1 & is provid+ at sev5ty-eight = :at %e calls 8old age0 by try+ h>d to put by two c5ts a week4 ,madame ,c4 has be5 k9d to h]1 & gives h] z mu* fre$om & com=t z %e c (f]2 = in/ance1 :5 ,/phanie 0 ill = ?ree days la/ week1 %e did n d$uct h] wages4 ,%e w\ld gladly d\ble h] pay1 or triple x1 = %e realizes !re are few l ,/phanie left1 b ! ,p>is firm to :om %e sells pays s little = h] lace t %e has nev] be5 able to (f] m ?an a franc a day4 8,if ,i c\ld give two francs1 ,i c\ld quickly ga!r a company ( #a1jjj cont5t$ lace-mak]s1 ,i am c]ta910 %e said4 8,b :5 my old work]s fall ill or die1 ,i f9d no "y girls will+ to come to me2 !y pref] ! tw5ty francs a week !y c make pick+ wool4 ,:5 ,/phanie goes1 ,i %all h no s+le arti/ to replace h]40 8,c'e/ un vrai cur de d5telle0 7%e is a true he>t ( lace71 %e said affectionately1 z %e patt$ h] on ! %\ld]4 ,& !n %e w5t to fet* a c>dbo>d box & ,i took a *air by ! table1 to wat* h] unfold :at x might conta94 ,%e spread ?ree beautiful wid?s ( ,application on blue pap] s t ,i might bett] see ! t9y b\quets & scatt]$ buds & leaves t blossom$ f ! f9e quality ( ma*9e-made tulle2 all ^! _h come f ,/phanie's bobb9s1 & %e 0 hav+ difficulty to cont9ue at h] cu%ion because ( h] eag]ness to expla9 !m4 ,!y 7 ,fr5* designs1 z _! *>m+ l9es _h made me suspect4 ,9 ! box ) ! ,application 7 two rolls ( ,po9t d',anglet]re1 ! lace "o f9ds r>ely at pres5t4 ,we held ! fir/ "o1 a l5g? ( f\r met]s1 six in*es wide1 aga9/ ! light1 & !n ,/phanie c\ld sit /ill no long]2 %e knew some?+ ab\t ?is piece1 = %e _h made its fir/ fl[] 9 #aiaa1 & n f9i%$ its la/ until ! w> 0 half ov]4 ,%e po9t$ out ! spaces :]e a special ne$le-work] _h introduc$ almo/ microscopic op5 /it*es into h] leaves & blooms to give !m ev5 great] air9ess1 & %[$ h[ almo/ impossible x w\ld h be5 to execute ^! ne$le-/it*es ) bobb9s2 & h[ difficult is ! /it* made ) a special cro*et-hook requir$ = ! rais$ ve9s & outl9es 7brodes7 ( ! petals & leaves1 s9ce ! hook mu/ cat* & atta* ! ?read ea* "t b5ea? ! surface4 ,f9ally1 a ne$le-work]1 aga91 z is always ! case 9 ,po9t d',anglet]re1 _h spun ! cle> web betwe5 ! fl[]s1 unit+ !m all into ! f9i%$ fl\nce4 ,/phanie po9t$ to a s+le detail4 8,x took me five days to make t t9y b\quet1 & ! ne$le-work] "o & a half days m to add ! op5 /it*es40 ,s9ce ! sn[-cov]$ roads made travel+ extremely haz>d\s1 ,i decid$ t ,i c\ld n /op long]1 no matt] h[ absorb+ ! ,applications & ,po9ts d',anglet]re1 or h[ ende>+ ! p]sonality & contagi\s ! en?usiasm ( ,/phanie4 ,i said 8,good-by10 expla9+ t ,i _h yet t day to visit ! ne$le-lace s*ool at ,zele1 tw5ty kilomet]s away4 ,,xii ,,zele ,/phanie ,visits ! ,trade ,union ,lace ,s*ool ,b ,i 0 n to h to "p ) ,/phanie4 ,:5 h] ,flemi% e>s ga!r$ f my ,fr5* t ,i 0 />t+ = ,zele & ! s*ool f\nd$ ?ree ye>s ago1 :i* _h be5 ! talk ( ! region ev] s9ce1 h] eyes fairly spoke h] eag] desire4 ,sev5ty-eight & e>n+ tw5ty c5ts a day1 & yet consum$ by a love = h] art 7= ) h]1 lace-mak+ is a true art71 & a passion to le>n m ab\t x6 ,i ask$ ,mme4 ,copp5s if ,/phanie might n come along 9 ! c>4 ,9 answ] %e began bu/l+ ab\t1 te>s 9 h] eyes1 to help get h] ready1 & ,/phanie 9 h] odd little wool5 cap c\ld sc>cely tie h] long black-hood$ cape because %e 0 con/antly ?r[+ up h] h&s1 & exclaim+1 & press+ !m toge!r1 z %e tri$ to make me und]/& t 9 all h] sev5ty-eight ye>s %e _h only twice ridd5 9 a wagon & nev] _h %e dream$ ( be+ 9 an automobile be=e %e di$4 ,:at w\ld ! neighbors say8 ,we bundl$ h] into ! corn] ( ! c> & 7 (f1 b %e c\ld n sit /ill1 lean+ =w>d to exclaim ov] ! beauty ( ! sn[1 or a w9dmill1 or ! *ildr5 skat+ 9 _! sabots1 or huddl+ d[n to cov] h] face ) h] h&s 9 swift %yness if "s "o _h seem$ to see h]2 no _s 0 ev] s bubbl+ & gay & eag] & timid all at once z ,/phanie's z we rode ?r\gh ! sn[ t[>d ,zele4 ,nor s pati5t z h]s aft] we arriv$2 = in/ead ( go+ to ! s*ool1 ,i _h to leave h] 9 ! c> :ile ,i w5t to ! h\se ( ! director1 ,dr4 ,arm& ,rubb5s1 un=tunately ill ) rheumatism1 :o is n only ! f\nd] ( ! s*ool b ! inspiration ( all ! unusual accompli%m5ts ( ! lace-work]s ( ?is t[n1 :]e 8 fa!r is ,burgoma/]4 ,aft] h] long wait1 ,/phanie's only comm5t z %e look$ a little fe>fully at ! ga!r+ dusk1 03 8,x is n yet too late to see ! s*ool40 ,inside1 ,dr4 ,rubb5s1 :o s9ce tak+ 8 univ]sity degree has n be5 /rong en\gh to foll[ 8 pr(ession1 & has devot$ himself to ! #hjj lace-work]s ( 8 di/rict1 expla9$ ! organization ( ! ,zele 8,trade ,union ,lace ,s*ool10 f\nd$ ?ree ye>s ago & ! only "o ( its k9d 9 ,belgium4 ,i felt1 z he talk$1 t he 0 reproduc+ 9 m9iature a ,h5ry ,=d plant1 & :5 ,i told him ?is1 he smil$4 8,i beg9 to ?9k ,i %\ld see "o ( ,mr4 ,=d's factories1 = 9 read+ an acc\nt ( 8 sy/em 9 ! ,p>is ,mat9 la/ week1 ,i 0 a/oni%$ at ! numb] ( 8 ideas ,i _h incorporat$40 ,! fifty advanc$ work]s 9 ! ateli] 7!re are #adj appr5tices7 %>e ! pr(it ( ! lace sales 9 proportion to _! wages1 & own "p ( ! /ock ( ! union4 ,! be/ work]s ( ?is gr\p make tw5ty-five c5times an h\r1 or two & a half francs 7fifty c5ts7 a day ( eight h\rs1 ! highe/ pay ,i "k (1 s f>1 ga9$ by a lace-mak]4 ,! girls may g f\r h\rs ea* week to a s*ool ( dome/ic sci5ce1 )\t los+ pay2 !re are illness & p5sion funds1 & o!r provisions = ! heal? & protection ( ! memb]s ( ! s*ool4 ,dr4 ,rubb5s has seem$ to accept e opportunity z a privilege4 ,illu/ration3 ,,at ,,"w ,,on ,,details ,,( ,a ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,sc>f ,,to ,,be ,,pres5t$ ,,to ,,que5 ,,elizabe? ,illu/ration3 ,,ne$le ,,lace ,,class-,,room ,,9 ,,! ,,trade ,,union ,,lace ,,s*ool ,,at ,,zele ,i look$ ov] ! files & photographs & records1 = ev5 ?o ,zele is a remote t[n ( b #f1jjj inhabitants1 ?is wide-awake director has made x provide = him a bett] set ( records & ann\ncem5t & adv]tis+ c>ds 7"s ( !m 9 ,engli%7 ?an ,i h se5 any:]e else 9 ,belgium4 ,:ile ,i 0 inspect+ ! books1 he op5$ a *e/ & spread on ! table a f9i%$ model f 8 s*ool--a ,ne$le ,po9t sc>f or veil1 s[n ) m>gu]ites & v>i$ by a bewild]+ succession ( op5-"w /it*es1 ea* seem+ly m exquisite ?an ! prec$+ & "s ( !m inv5t$ = ?is p>ticul> veil4 ,! ne$le-work]s :o _h made x _h giv5 ab\t #i1jjj h\rs to its fl[]s & gauze1 & x w\ld br+ #c1jjj francs to ! ,trade ,union treasury4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,illu/ration ,,= ,,! ,,fable ,,( ,,! ,,fox ,,& ,,! ,,grapes ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,zele ,,lace ,,s*ool2 ,,jo9+ ,,details ,,( ,,! ,,ne$le-,,po9t ,,sc>f ,,pres5t$ ,,to ,,que5 ,,elizabe? ,i felt t ,i mu/ fet* ,/phanie to see ?is1 b ,dr4 ,rubb5s advis$ hurry+ n[ to ! s*ool1 :]e !re 0 some?+ /ill m beautiful to be se5--! sc>f j complet$ t w be pres5t$ to ,que5 ,elizabe?1 & s f> ! *ef-d'uvre ( ! ,zele lace-mak]s4 ,i told ,/phanie ab\t x on our way ?r\gh ! village4 ,once arriv$1 we w5t directly to ! mo/ advanc$ class1 :]e ,/phanie might f9d mo/ to int]e/ h]4 ,! "y wom5 7 at "w on ,ne$le ,po9t coll>s & m$allions1 a s]ies ( tableaux f ! leg5d ( ! ,fox & ! ,grapes1 & %e 0 all eyes & e>s z %e w5t eag]ly f *air to *air1 try+ to see :at ^! girls _h be5 taught t %e _h miss$ le>n+1 & to add to h] lore1 if %e c\ld4 ,i believe x is only 9 su* a mod]n s*ool z ?is t an outsid] w\ld h be5 all[$ to exam9e1 z ,/phanie did1 ! /it*es & patt]ns1 = ! tradition ( ! lock$ door & ! c>efully gu>d$ secret /ill prevails 9 ! lace ^w4 ,i 0 impati5t to see ! s*ool's ma/]piece1 ! royal sc>f1 & x 0 n[ br\ght f ! safe & held be=e u by ?ree "y wom51 z ! directress l$ u f po9t to po9t 9 ! airy me% spun betwe5 its rose g>l&s & m$allions4 ,on ei!r side ( ! c5t] m$allion1 ! arms ( ,belgium1 7 two o!rs1 9 :i* human figures symboliz$ cities ! w> has made immortal4 ,= ,nieuport a fi%]-maid5 /ood on ! %ore ) h] basket1 & ab\t h] ! net took up a cockle%ell motif2 ,pop]+he _h ! graceful hop-v9e z its device2 = ,furnes !re 0 a dairy-maid ) h] *urn 9 ! mid/ ( blossom+ butt] fl[]s2 :ile ,ypres 0 repres5t$ by a beautiful ,flam&e sitt+ be=e a lace cu%ion heap$ ) bobb9s--c\ntless /it*es1 occupy+ #ab1jjj h\rs1 & ! entire weight #abe grammes6 ,& yet1 at ! end1 ,/phanie tilt$ h] de> old head & said3 8,nev]!less1 ,madame1 = ! ,que51 ,i %\ld h made ! me% yet f9]40 ,?is ,trade ,union is 9 a s5se a pr(essional s*ool1 s9ce x tea*es design1 b !re is ! weak spot 9 an o!rwise rem>kable a*ievem5t4 ,! designs execut$ by ,dr4 ,rubb5s & ! s*ool are (t5 ! k9d t h l$ =eign lace-buy]s to ord] ?r\gh ,p>is1 :i* c\ld furni% ! draw+s1 r ?an direct f ,belgium4 ,!y lack ! lightness & grace t lace designs %\ld unfail+ly possess1 j ! qualities :i* ! ,fri5ds ( ,lace h done s mu* to enc\rage & cultivate4 ,if ,dr4 ,rubb5s c see 8 way to foll[ _! sugge/ions1 or to employ+ a ,fr5* tea*]1 !re seems no limit to :at he may accompli%4 ,he is n[ attempt+ to e/abli% a true ne$le-lace ,normal ,s*ool1 :i* w (f] c\rses 9 comm]ce1 ,engli%1 hi/ory1 & all ! bran*es necess>y to a complete lace education4 ,?is w supplem5t ! in/ruction ( ! ,bruges bobb9-lace ,normal1 already well "u way4 ,he holds t ! tea*+ ( ! f9e ne$le po9ts is m t$i\s & difficult ?an ! tea*+ ( ! bobb9 po9ts1 & t x takes m ye>s to become exp]t 9 ne$le laces ?an 9 o!rs4 ,on ! way home1 ,/phanie ask$ :at %e might d = me4 8,y may pray = me1 if y wi%1 ,/phanie40 ,%e 0 sil5t a mom5t4 8,b1 ,madame1 %\ld ,i n make a pilgrimage to ,l\rdes = y8 ,on "o ( my trips 9 ! wagon1 ,i saw ! sea1 & = ?ree ye>s aft] t ! sea 0 e day j be=e my eyes4 ,& to-day w rema9 until ,i die j 9 front ( my eyes4 ,madame1 %\ld ,i n g to ,l\rdes = y80 ,,app5dix ,illu/ration3 ,map %[+ important lace areas 9 #aiai1 especially prep>$ = ?is volume by ! ,brussels ,lace ,committee4 ,! size ( ! circles indicates ! approximate geographical ext5t ( lace-mak+ activity1 & has no ref]5ce to ! quality produc$4 ,! f9e/ v>ieties are made 9 ! areas indicat$ by circles #c 7not$ = ,val5ci5nes1 ,bruges1 ,cluny71 #d 7,bruges1 ,val5ci5nes1 ,cluny71 #aa 7,du*esse1 ,application1 ,rosal9e71 #ae 7,mal9e1 ,pt4 de ,p>is1 ,pt4 de ,lille1 ,b9*e74 ,second quality1 circles #e 7,val41 ,cluny71 #f 7,val41 ,bruges1 ,cluny71 #g 7,du*esse1 ,ne$le ,po9t1 ,val41 ,cluny71 #i 7,po9t d',holl&e1 ,val41 ,v5ise1 ,ne$le ,po9t1 ,cluny74 ,?ird quality1 circles #h 7,du*esse1 ,ne$le ,po9t71 #ab 7,v5ise ,ne$le ,po9t1 ,du*esse1 ,*antilly71 #aj 7,bruges1 ,du*esse1 ,val41 ,cluny71 #ad 7,ne$le ,po9t1 ,application71 #ac 7,cluny1 ,tor*on71 #af 7,cluny74 ,! lea/ important laces are f\nd 9 regions #ag 7,v5ise1 filet71 #ah 7filet1 ,tor*on71 #ai 7,po9t de ,p>is1 ,*antilly74 ,illu/ration3 a4 ,patt]n ,illu/ration3 b4 ,work]'s piqure made f patt]n ,,app5dix ,) ,draw+s by ! ,directrice ( ! ,brussels ,s*ool ( ,design1 ,mme4 ,lucie ,paulis ,f ! po9t ( view ( te*nique1 all laces are divid$ into two gr\ps2 laces made ) ! ne$le1 & laces made ) bobb9s4 ,i4--,laces ,made ) ! ,ne$le ,all ne$le lace is execut$ 9 ! same mann]4 ,fir/1 ! design ( ! :ole is divid$ into details suffici5tly small to all[ ( _! be+ easily held & turn$ by ! work]4 ,! design ( ea* ( ^! details is reproduc$ on a special k9d ( black pap] by means ( t9y prick$ holes t foll[ all its l9es4 ,! lace work] sews ?is patt]n 7or piqure7 to a piece ( d\ble :ite clo?1 :i* gives x solidity4 ,%e is !n ready to beg9 ! trac or outl9+ process4 ,a /r& ( two or ?ree ?reads is appliqud along all ! cont\rs ( ! patt]n by means ( a v f9e ne$le & v f9e ?read1 :i* cat*es ! clo? bel[ ! black pap]1 pass+ & repass+ ?r\gh ea* ( ! holes ( ! patt]n1 ?us hold+ ! outl9+ /r& 9 a sort ( embrace4 ,:5 all ! cont\rs ( ! draw+ h be5 trac$1 ! second "p ( ! "w beg9s1 ! execution ( ! po9ts t are to fill 9 ! spaces4 ,illu/ration3 c4 ,! outl9+ or trac+ cord ,all ! po9ts or /it*es ( ne$le lace are loops1 simple or twi/$1 =m$ by a ne$le c>ry+ a s+le ?read4 7,! work] holds ! ne$le ) ! base in/ead ( ! po9t1 =w>d47 ,! fir/ r[ ( loops is atta*$ to ! ?reads ( ! outl9+ /r&4 ,arriv+ at ! extremity ( ! space %e is work+1 ! lace-mak] beg9s a second r[ ( loops runn+ 9 ! opposite direction1 atta*+ ea* loop to ! correspond+ loop ( ! fir/ r[4 ,at ! end ( ?is r[ %e fa/5s x to ! outl9+ /r& by "o or two /it*es & />ts on ! ?ird r[1 repeat+ ?is op]ation until h] space is completely cov]$4 ,! po9ts or /it*es mo/ frequ5tly employ$ are3 #a4 ,! plat 7sket* d71 or /it* :i* =ms ! flat wov5 p>ts1 :i* c be m or less tightly drawn1 & s]ves = all ! opaque p>ts ( ! lace4 ,x is made by simple loops1 ea* r[ be+ consolidat$ by means ( a /ret*$ ?read z illu/rat$ 9 ! sket*4 ,illu/ration3 d4 ,/it* = ! plat or surface ,illu/ration3 e4 ,/it* "o #b4 ,! j\rs or op5-"w /it*es4 ,among ! fantasy /it*es employ$ 9 ! j\rs are3 ,illu/ration3 f4 ,mirror /it* a4 ,! po9t "o1 or /it* "o1 7sket* e47 ,!re exi/s also a /it* two1 & /it* ?ree1 :i* diff] 9 ! numb] ( loops =m+ ! gr\p4 b4 ,! mirror /it* 7sket* f47 & a k9d ( ball /it* 7sket* g471 & la/ly ! fam\s extremely transp>5t po9t de gaze1 or gauze /it* 7sket* h471 :i* con/itutes ! me% ( ! popul> ,brussels lace4 ,illu/ration3 g4 ,ball /it* ,all ! surfaces hav+ be5 cov]$1 ! lace is fur!r embelli%$ by ! confection ( brodes1 or firm outl9+ cords ar\nd ! fill$-9 spaces1 :i* produce a m or less /rik+ effect ( relief 9 ne$le laces4 ,?is brode 7sket* i71 is made ( a /r& ( f9e or heavi] ?reads1 appliqud z 0 ! orig9al /r& outl9+ ! patt]n spaces1 & !n beautifully cov]$ by ! buttonhole /it*4 ,:5 ! brode is well made1 ! buttonhole /it*es foll[ closely1 t\*+ side by side4 ,illu/ration3 h4 ,gauze me% /it* ,_m diff]+ little details :i* help to give to ne$le lace its ri*ness & brilliancy 7balls1 r+s1 etc471 are also v>ieties ( brodes1 & are made = ! mo/ "p 9 ! buttonhole /it*4 ,! b>s =m+ ! base ( ,v5ise lace are made 9 ?is way4 ,! execution ( ! brodes is ! f9al "w 9 ne$le lace4 ,aft] !y are f9i%$1 ! lace detail is deta*$ f ! und]ly+ patt]n by cutt+ ! ?read betwe5 ! black pap] & support+ clo?1 ! f9e ?read :i* 9 ! beg9n+ atta*$ ! outl9+ /r&4 ,!re rema9s only to jo9 ! sep>ate details ( ! patt]n by a v f9e /it* call$ ! po9t invisible4 ,illu/ration3 i4 ,brode1 buttonhole /it* ,! v>ieties ( ne$le laces are3 a4 ,v5ise 7fond or base compos$ ( brides or b>s74 b4 ,reticella 7,v5ise lace ( geometric design & made )\t brodes or outl9+ relief cords74 c4 ,rose ,po9t 7,v5ise ) a design ( f9e bran*es & t5drils74 d4 ,brussels ,po9t or ,ne$le ,po9t 7v f9e lace 9 :i* a gauze me% replaces ! b>s employ$ 9 ,v5ise74 ,,ii4--,bobb9 ,lace ,bobb9 laces fall "u two gr\ps3 7#a7 ,^? made ) cut ?reads1 & 7#b7 ^? made ) cont9u\s ?reads4 #a4 ,laces made ) cut ?reads1 or ( repeat$ details1 are execut$ on a r\nd cu%ion1 :i* c be easily turn$ & !y require b a limit$ numb] ( bobb9s 7g5]ally n m ?an two doz574 ,!y may be said to be compos$ ess5tially ( a braid :i* gr[s wid] or n>r[] z x foll[s all ! v>iations ( ! patt]n1 & is int]rupt$ z (t5 z is necess>y4 ,! p>ts 9 process ( op]ation are atta*$ to ^? already f9i%$ by v]itable runn+ knots made ) ! aid ( a little cro*et ne$le1 a tool absolutely indisp5sable to ! mak+ ( ?is k9d ( lace4 ,! design ( ! :ole is divid$ into portions s small t !y cov] only ! middle ( ! cu%ion4 ,x is necess>y to h all ar\nd ! detail1 space = ! bobb9s1 ea* ( :i* c>ries a ?read ab\t f\r in*es long4 ,illu/ration3 j4 ,bobb9s us$ 9 mak+ ,belgian laces #a1 #b & #c ,val5ci5nes #d & #e ,mal9es ,illu/ration3 j4 ,bobb9s us$ 9 mak+ ,belgian laces #f ,mal9es #g ,po9t de ,p>is #h ,application #i ,tor*on #aj ,du*esse ,illu/ration3 k4 ,a patt]n = bobb9 lace1 ) l1 m1 n1 ! braids 9 :i* x mu/ be execut$ ,ea* fragm5t is trac$ on a d>k blue pap] or patron on :i* ! place = ! p9s is n indicat$ 7sket* k474 ,! lace-mak] p9s ?is blue pap] to ! middle ( h] cu%ion1 cov]+ ! :ole ) a piece ( d>k blue l95 :i* has a hole 9 ! middle l>ge en\gh to leave free ! "p ( ! patt]n actually be+ work$4 ,! lace already f9i%$ is ?us protect$4 ,%e !n places a p9 on ! spot :]e %e decides to beg91 atta*+ ! necess>y numb] ( bobb9s & />ts to weave z a weav] does1 fir/ f "r to left1 !n f left to "r1 c>ry+ ! two bobb9s hold+ ! ?reads =m+ ! wo( 7trame7 successively above & bel[ ! ?reads =m+ ! w>p 7*a9e74 ,ea* "t all ( ! ?reads ( ! w>p h be5 cross$ by ! ?reads ( ! wo(1 %e places a p91 & n[ ! two wo( ?reads caught by ?is p9 lead back to ! opposite side4 ,%e turns h] cu%ion accord+ to ! direction ( ! braid %e is execut+1 s t ! ?reads =m+ ! w>p always fall v]tically4 ,illu/ration3 l4 ,a braid :i* =ms ! toile ,illu/ration3 m4 ,a grill braid ,illu/ration3 n4 ,a braid ( #d ?reads ,! fundam5tal /it* 9 ^! laces & t :i* =ms ! greate/ "p ( ! braids is ! po9t de toile1 or toile 7sket* #a474 ,c]ta9 op5 /it*es are also employ$1 ! mo/ common be+ ! grill or half-/it* 7sket* m474 ,! diff]5t v>ieties ( bobb9 laces made ) cut ?reads1 or 9 repeat$ pieces are3 a4 ,bruges1 ! fl[]s are unit$ by brides or b>s t are braid$ ) f\r ?reads 7sket* n474 b4 ,du*esse 7made only ) f9e ?read1 loosely work$ & produc+ a n p>ticul>ly pleas+ result74 c4 ,rosal9e 7an imitation ) bobb9s ( ,rose ,po9t4 ,brodes1 or rais$ outl9es made ) ! ne$le1 give x relief74 d4 ,fl&]s 79 ?is lace ! base ( brides or b>s is replac$ by a net me% base execut$ ) a ne$le74 e4 ,application 7! fl[]s1 execut$ l ^? ( ,bruges are sew$ ^u tulle74 #b4 ,lace made ) uncut or cont9u\s ?reads4 ,laces ( ?is gr\p are execut$ on a /ation>y cu%ion4 ,! design1 be=e x c be us$ by ! work]1 mu/ pass ?r\gh ! h&s ( a piqueuse1 or int]pret]1 :o prep>es :at is call$ ! patron or patt]n 7sket* o71 t is to say1 det]m9es 9 advance ! places :]e ! p9s de/9$ to hold ! ?reads1 mu/ be plac$ 7sket* ( a piqure1 p474 ,?is "w ( ! piqueuse dem&s great skill & inf9ite pati5ce4 ,^u h] int]pretation w dep5d ! aspect ( ! lace1 = ! work] foll[s h] indications rigidly4 ,?is patt]n is prick$ on a supple & resi/ant c>dbo>d 79 old5 times x 0 made on p>*m5t7 & is p9n$ to ! cu%ion ) ! selvage ( ! lace at ! left4 ,! work] !n atta*es to a r[ ( p9s plac$ all across ! top ( ! patt]n1 ! ?reads :i* %e w ne$1 (t5 _m hundr$s4 ,illu/ration3 o4 ,patt]n f :i* piqure is made ,illu/ration3 p4 ,piqure ,n[ %e comm5ces h] "w1 braid+1 twi/+1 int]cross+ ! ?reads 9 div]se ways1 & plac+ a p9 ea* "t ! ?reads mu/ be held 9 a position :i* !y c n reta9 )\t ! aid ( a fixt support4 ,:5 %e arrives at ! bottom ( h] patt]n1 ) great c>e %e takes out all ! p9s1 & lifts h] "w to ! top ( ! patt]n1 replac+ ! p9s s t ! lace w be kept absolutely regul>4 ,%e !n recomm5ces h] "w ( braid+ or weav+1 repeat+ ! same op]ation till ! l5g? ( lace %e mu/ make is f9i%$4 ,! patt]ns are usually ab\t a foot long4 ,illu/ration3 q4 ,val5ci5nes me% ,! bobb9 laces made ) cont9u\s ?read comprise3 a4 ,cluny & b4 ,laces ) a me% base3 #a4 ,val5ci5nes1 #b4 ,b9*e1 #c4 ,mal9es1 #d4 ,po9t de ,p>is1 #e4 ,po9t de ,lille1 #f4 ,*antilly4 ,! v>ieties 9 ,gr\p b may truly be call$ wov5 lace1 because !y conta9 a v]itable tissue 9 :i*1 ?o ! ?reads are comb9$ 9 su* a way z to produce m or less op5 effects1 ! opaque p>ts are wov5 regul>ly1 t is z l95 is wov54 ,! patt]n ( ! me% ( ea* ( ^! laces is diff]5t4 ,val5ci5nes 7sket* q474 ,b9*e 7sket* r & s474 ,mal9es 7sket* t474 ,po9t de ,p>is 7sket* u474 ,po9t de ,lille 7sket* v474 ,fur!r1 ,mal9es1 ,*antilly1 ,po9t de ,lille1 & ,po9t de ,p>is are *>act]iz$ by ! pres5ce ( ! b\rdon1 or heavy ?read1 slightly twi/$1 outl9+ all ! details ( ! design4 ,grammont1 or ,*antilly lace1 is usually made ( black silk ?read4 ,! me% is ! same z t ( ,po9t de ,lille4 ,9 x ! toile is replac$ by ! grill1 :i* adds greatly to ! lightness ( ! effect4 ,illu/ration3 r4 ,b9*e me% ,n4 ,b4--,to be und]/ood te*nically1 all ^! laces made ) cont9u\s ?read %\ld be consid]$ f ! po9t ( view ( ! place !y occupy on ! cu%ion ( ! work]3 ,!y are held v]tically ) ! selvage at ! left4 ,illu/ration3 s4 ,me% ( 8sn[-ball0 patt]n1 us$ 9 ,b9*e ,x is necess>y to m5tion ) ^! laces1 ,tor*on1 ! mo/ common ( all1 :i* has little arti/ic value1 & has ent]$ m & m into ! doma9 ( ! ma*9e4 ,tor*on base 7sket* w474 ,illu/ration3 t4 ,mal9es me% ,illu/ration3 u4 ,po9t de ,p>is me% ,illu/ration3 v4 ,po9t de ,lille me% ,illu/ration3 w4 ,tor*on base ,illu/ration3 x4 ,picot ,illu/ration3 y4 ,cluny patt]n ,gr\p ,a4--,cluny laces dem& great +5uity 9 execution4 ,! mo/ simple are made entirely by braid+ 9 su* a way z to produce an effect ( int]lac+ 7sket* y474 ,! braids are =m$ ( f\r ?reads2 :5 ! int]lac+ is m important !y become m complicat$4 ,at times ! braids gr\p !mselves to =m ! flat surface or toile :i* lat] w resolve aga9 into braids4 ,!y unite & "p1 sometimes divid+ into /r&s 7brides7 ( two ?reads accord+ to ! l9es ( ! design4 ,?is design %\ld be absolutely precise4 ,& s9ce 9 x ! future employm5t ( ea* ?read mu/ be con/antly =ese51 x is q impossible to compose a ,cluny lace patt]n )\t a k ( ! te*nique ( t lace 7sket* y74 ,illu/ration3 z4 ,int]pret$ ,tor*on patt]n ,illu/ration3 ,complet$ lace ,sometimes ! g5]al "n guipure is giv5 to ,cluny1 z well z to all laces made ) cont9u\s ?read :i* h n a me% base4 ,,index ,a]seele1 #aaj ,alb]t ,k+1 #aid ,alcant>a1 ,comtesse d'1 #beb ,al5on 7t[n71 #ca ,al5on lace1 #ch1 #acb ,all>d1 ,mme4 ,josse1 #afi1 #agb1 #bji ,alo/1 ,lace region (1 #adi1 #afi;ff1 #bbd ,sp9n]ies (1 #hb ,am]ica1 ,aid f1 #ag1 #bce1 #bcf ,lace buy] (1 #beb ,laces display$ 91 #dj ,am]icans 9 ,gh5t1 #bdh ,amies de la ,d5telle1 ,conv5t subsidiz$ by1 #bah ,lace quality cons]vation by1 #ajj1 #bgb ,prices "u1 #ajc ,s*ool re=ms "u1 #ae ,w> committee1 see ,brussels ,lace ,committee ,antik lace1 see ,fl&]s1 ,old ,antw]p1 ,old ,fl&]s 91 #aae ,port (1 #cj1 #aff ,prov9ce (1 #adf ,application lace1 #bbf1 #bda ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,bobb9s =1 #bhi ,lacets =1 #aga ,me?od ( mak+1 #bba;ff1 #bib ,re/oration (1 #bef ,tulle base =1 #da1 #bei ,ardois1 #aji ,arg5t9 lace1 #ch ,arras1 #ca ,asp]1 #beb ,ba*te1 #beb ,baelegem1 #bea ,bailleul1 #cd ,deva/ation (1 #cf ,bayeux1 #aca ,be]nem1 #abc ,bgu9age ( ,bruges1 #aed;ff ( ,gh5t1 #aee ,b]raly's conv5t1 ,abb1 #ec;ff ,be?1 ,?read firm (1 #ha ,be?une1 ,b>on de1 #he ,beughem1 ,vicomtesse de1 #ag1 #abg1 #afi ,b9*e lace1 #aae1 #aej1 #aeb1 #aff ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,me% designs1 #big1 #bih ,me?od ( mak+1 #dj1 #bif ,bixio1 ,m41 #bg ,blonde lace1 #dj ,me?od ( mak+1 #acd ,bobb9 lace1 #cg ,areas produc+1 #ig;ff1 #add;ff ,me?od ( mak+1 #ci1 #bhg;ff ,tea*+1 #afa ,v>ieties (1 #ci1 #dj1 #bib1 #bif ,b\sies1 ,comtesse de1 #bdi ,brabant1 ,lace area (1 #bae;ff ,prov9ce (1 #adf ,bruges 7t[n71 #cj1 #ea1 #hg1 #ia1 #abd1 #bdg ,lace region (1 #adc;ff ,lace ,normal ,s*ool (1 #gf1 #ajj ,bruges lace1 #bda1 #bdi1 #beg ,areas produc+1 #adc;ff1 #bgg ,coll>s & cuffs1 #aac ,du*esse1 #dj1 #adi1 #aej1 #aeb ,me?od ( mak+1 #bib ,old1 #aji ,po9t de1 #ajd ,rosal9e &1 #bbf;ff ,brugg51 ,mme4 ,van d]1 #abc ,brussels 7t[n71 #ai1 #ba1 #he1 #bjd1 #baj1 #baf1 #bag1 #bcb1 #bda1 #bec ,g]man 8,lace ,control0 91 #abb ,museum1 #bf1 #db1 #hf ,po9t d',anglet]re 91 #bbc ,s*ool ( ,design1 #gf1 #afe1 #bgi ,brussels lace1 ,du*esse1 #dj1 #bcg1 #bda ,po9t1 #ci1 #agi1 #ahb1 #bhc1 #bhf ,me?od ( mak+ ,brussels ,po9t1 #bhf ,brussels ,lace ,committee1 #abg1 #adh1 #aea1 #aie ,ag5cy1 pur*as+ & sales1 #ajh1 #aaf1 #agd1 #ahb1 #bjf1 #baj1 #bbe1 #bcg1 #bda ,designs (1 #eh1 #aic1 #bdb ,educational aims (1 #ef1 #ge1 #aae ,g]man int]f]5ce )1 #abc1 #bch ,improvem5ts ?r\gh1 #cf1 #ec1 #aba ,map ( lace areas1 #bgf ,orig9 & purpose (1 #ae;ff ,p]sonnel (1 #ag ,prices paid by1 #ajc1 #aab1 #abc1 #abd1 #bed ,repres5tatives (1 #aje1 #aah1 #adi1 #bcf1 #beb ,?read supply =1 #hb1 #hh ,burano lace1 #ci ,bysance1 #bf ,calais1 #ce1 #agb ,cel9e1 #bej ,*antilly lace1 #dj1 #bje ,areas produc+1 #abg;ff1 #bgg ,me?od ( mak+1 #bif ,c9quant5aire ,museum1 #bf1 #db1 #hf ,clat]na1 ,anci5t bobb9s (1 #bg ,cluny lace1 #bh1 #dd1 #hi1 #id1 #ih1 #aaa1 #aah1 #abc1 #adi1 #aej1 #aeb1 #afb1 #bbe1 #bcg1 #bea ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,designs1 #cjb ,duty on1 #ij ,guipures (1 #ii1 #ajc1 #ajd1 #aac1 #adi ,me?od ( mak+1 #ci1 #bif1 #cjb1 #cjd ,coates1 ,?read firm (1 #hb ,cock1 ,gillemont de1 #adh1 #aff ,colb]t1 #ca ,colette1 #agi ,coll>t1 ,m41 #ag ,comit ,national1 ,coop]ation (1 #af1 #ag1 #ai ,relief "w (1 #baf1 #bce ,commission = ,relief 9 ,belgium1 #abj1 #bcf ,coop]ation (1 #af1 #ai1 #ace ,compagnie des ,indes1 #ag ,conv5ts1 ,lace-mak+ ,bruges1 #adi ,cruy%autem1 #bjb ,eecke1 #beb ,erembodeghem1 #ahi;ff ,heckelgem1 #bae;ff ,k]xk51 #agc ,li$ek]ke1 #bah;ff ,opbrakel1 #bja;ff ,ruyssel$e1 #beb1 #bee ,s*eldew9kle1 #beb ,?ielt1 #aje1 #aaj ,turnh\t1 #ec;ff ,copp5s1 ,mme41 #bef;ff1 #bfe ,c\rtrai lace region1 #gi;ff ,cox1 ,?read firm (1 #ha ,cruy%autem conv5t1 #bjb ,cus5]s1 ,mme41 #abi ,designs ( v>i\s laces1 #bgh;ff ,de/elb]g51 #bbd1 #bea1 #bef ,deynze di/rict1 #beb1 #bec ,dixmude1 #hg1 #adc ,du*esse lace1 #ih1 #abc1 #afc1 #bdi1 #bea1 #beb1 #bee ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,bobb9s =1 #bhi ,bruges1 #dj1 #adi1 #aej1 #aeb ,brussels1 #dj1 #bcg1 #bda ,guipures1 #ii ,me?od ( mak+1 #bib ,eecke conv5t1 #beb ,egypt1 #bf ,elizabe?1 ,que51 #ag ,laces =1 #ch1 #aic;ff1 #bgj;ff ,patronage (1 #ae ,engl&1 #cj ,?read f1 #ai1 #hb ,tulle f1 #ce ,erembodeghem1 #ahe1 #baj ,lace region (1 #ahi;ff ,fl&]s 7di/rict71 ,lace indu/ry 9 #cj1 #dc;ff1 #adf ,fl&]s lace1 #da1 #ii1 #afc1 #bcg1 #bda1 #bea ,details (1 #bbd1 #aad;ff ,guipures (1 #aac ,me?od ( mak+1 #bib ,old1 #dj1 #aaa1 #aad;ff1 #aej1 #aeb1 #aff1 #bbe ,france1 ,hi/ory ( lace 91 #cj;ff ,francisca9e ,si/]s1 #agc;ff1 #ahi;ff1 #bja;ff ,fri5ds ( ,lace1 see ,amies de la ,d5telle ,furnes1 #hg1 #bga ,g&1 ,canton de1 #bdh ,g]man depr$ations1 #ea1 #ei1 #hj1 #hb;ff1 #hh1 #bca facteurs1 #hh1 #aai int]f]5ce ) lace work]s1 #ah1 #aje1 #aaj1 #aai1 #abj;ff1 #aeg;ff1 #agd1 #aij1 #bai1 #bcg;ff 8,lace ,control10 #bj1 #abj;ff ,gh5t1 #cj1 #hg1 #adc1 #adg ,bgu9age (1 #aee ,lace ,committee1 #bdi;ff ,lace region (1 #bdg;ff ,sp9n]ies (1 #hb ,graeht1 ,b>on van d]1 #aje1 #ajh1 #aad ,mlle4 van d]1 #aje ,grammont1 ,*antilly lace region1 #abg;ff1 #bjf1 #bif ,greeks1 #bf ,gr5ad9e d',alays1 #aci ,groo?uis museum1 #aea ,gulleghem1 #ib ,gys5zeele1 #bea ,ha9aut1 ,prov9ce (1 #adf ,halta]t1 #agj ,hansbeek1 #bee ,hebrews1 #bf ,heckelgem conv5t1 #bae;ff ,h5ry1 ,mrs4 ,bay>d1 #ib ,h]zele lace region1 #bca;ff ,holl&1 #cj ,lace = ,que5 (1 #bjg ,hoov]1 ,h]b]t ,c41 #ah ,mrs4 ,h]b]t ,c41 #aic ,h\rs ( lace work]s1 #fe;ff #aaa;ff #bag1 #bbh1 #bee1 #bfh ,imitations1 #ag1 #da1 #aga1 #ahc ( ,*antilly1 #acb1 #ach ( ,po9t d',anglet]re1 #bba ,import duty on lace1 #ij ,irel&1 ,?read f1 #hb ,iseghem1 #ih ,italy1 #ae1 #cf ,anci5t bobb9s 91 #bg ,hi/ory ( lace 91 #bi ,kef]-,mali1 ,mme41 #ag1 #db1 #bae1 #bba ,k]xk5 lace region1 #afi;ff1 #bbd ,knessel>s1 #bea ,lace areas1 ,li/ & ,map (1 #bgf;ff ,hi/ory (1 #be;ff ,me?ods ( mak+1 #bgi;ff ,s*ools1 #adf1 #adg1 #bdb;ff ,amies de la ,d5telle &1 #ae;ff1 #gf ,*antilly1 #abi1 #aca ,conv5t1 #ec;ff #aje1 #adi;ff1 #agg1 #aij;ff1 #bje;ff1 #bae1 #bah;ff1 #beb ,copp5s'1 #bef ,normal1 #ajj1 #aaj;ff1 #aeb1 #aef;ff1 #bgc ,trade ,union1 #bfe;ff ,v>ieties (1 see ,bobb9 lace & ,ne$le lace ,l&sant]1 #bea ,li$ek]ke lace region1 #bae;ff ,li$t's collection1 ,b>on1 #aea ,lille1 #cj1 #cd ,loot5hulle1 #beb1 #bee ,l\is ,,xiii1 #cb ,l\is ,,xiv1 #ca1 #cb1 #cc ,l\is ,philippe1 #ce ,lys ,riv] valley flax1 #cj1 #gi;ff ,ma*el91 #beb ,ma]t5s1 ,pr(essor1 #adh1 #aef ,maldeghem1 #adi ,mal9es 7t[n7 #cj1 #hf1 #bdh ,mal9es lace1 #dj1 #ajj ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,bobb9s =1 #bhh1 #bhi ,me% design1 #bii ,me?od ( mak+1 #gc;ff1 #bif ,old laces1 #hf ,po9t de ,lille &1 #ga1 #gb ,map ( lace areas1 #bgf ,m>gh>ita ( ,italy1 ,que51 #ae ,m>ia ,loop1 #aaj ,m>ie ,anto9ette1 #cc ,m>ie-,h5riette1 ,du*ess ( ,brabant1 #bdi ,m>ie-,?rse1 ,empress1 #bdh ,m591 #hg ,m]ci]1 ,c>d9al1 #bci ,mal9es lace (1 #ge ,milan lace1 #ajd ,guipure (1 #aad ,mullie1 ,mlle41 #hg1 #hi1 #ij ,museum1 ,brussels1 #bf1 #db1 #hf ,c\rtrai1 #he ,groo?uis1 #aea ,ne$le lace1 #cg;ff1 #bja1 #bjf1 #bjh;ff1 #bgc ,me?od ( mak+1 #bgi;ff ,v>ieties (1 #ch;ff1 #bhf ,ne$le ,po9t lace1 #dd1 #ii1 #afb1 #afi1 #ahi1 #bjb1 #bbc1 #bdh1 #bdi1 #bea1 #beb1 #bfi1 #bgj ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,me?od ( mak+1 #agh;ff1 #bhf ,new ,york1 #ij ,nieuport1 #hg1 #adc1 #bga ,n9ove1 #abh ,sp9n]ies (1 #hb ,nor?cliffe's po/]s1 ,"l1 #bdj ,o$elem1 #abc ,oo/camp1 #abc1 #adi ,oo/]zele1 #bea ,opbrakel conv5t1 #ahi1 #bja;ff ,oultremont1 ,comtesse ,elizabe? d'1 #ag ,paisley sp9n]ies1 #hb ,p>c1 ,comte du1 #bca;ff ,mme4 du1 #bca;ff ,p>is lace m>ket1 #fi1 #ij1 #aif1 #bbc ,paulis1 ,mme4 ,lucie1 #afe1 #bgi ,peat1 ,?read firm (1 #ic1 #acd ,p]sia1 #bf ,pit?am1 #aji ,po9t d' ,al5on1 #acb d',anglet]re1 #aha1 #bba1 #bda1 #bfj ,me?od ( mak+1 #dj1 #bbc;ff de ,bruges1 #ajd de ,fl&]s1 #bbd;ff de ,gaze1 #agi1 #bhc d',holl&e1 #gb ,areas produc+1 #bgg de ,lille1 #dj ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,me% design1 #cjj ,me?od ( mak+1 #ga1 #bif de ,milan1 #ajd de ,p>is1 #dj1 #acd ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,bobb9s =1 #bhi ,me% design1 #bii ,me?od ( mak+1 #fb1 #bif ,v>i\s uses (1 #fi1 #ga de ,v5ise1 see ,v5etian ,po9t ,pompad\r1 ,m>quise de1 #cc ,pop]+he1 #hg1 #bga ,prices paid = lace1 #hh1 #ajc1 #aag1 #ahc1 #aif1 #bag1 #bed ,prices paid = supplies1 #hh1 #ic ,prie/ess ( ,ha?or1 #bg ,puy1 ,?read firm (1 #ic ,reims1 #ca ,reticella1 #bhf ,retreats1 #aed;ff ,ripp5haus51 ,freih]r von1 #aba ,rob]t9e1 ,sur1 #agd;ff1 #aig ,rond me%1 #ia ,roose1 ,mme41 #aea ,rosalie1 #bag ,rosal9e lace1 #dj1 #aeb1 #bba1 #bbc1 #bcg1 #bda1 #bdi1 #bee ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,me?od ( mak+1 #bbf;ff1 #bib ,rose po9t lace1 #ci1 #aie1 #bib ,me?od ( mak+1 #bhf ,rubb5s1 ,dr4 ,arm&1 #afb1 #bfg;ff ,rudd]1 ,m4 de1 #aic ,rulant1 ,adele1 #agb ,russian lace1 #afc ,ruyssel$e1 #aaj1 #beb1 #bee ,ryel&1 ,mme41 #adi ,/4 ,&re1 #adi ,/4 ,croix1 #adi ,/4 ,mi*el1 #adi1 #aec ,/4 ,pi]re des ,calais1 #acb ,s*eldew9kle conv5t1 #beb ,s*ools1 see ,lace s*ools ,s$an1 #ca ,%>laeck51 ,mme41 #ag ,sicily1 #cj ,sidonie1 #agh ,si/] ,a41 #aij;ff ,si/] ,m41 #bbj;ff ,si/] ,s41 #aie ,slock1 ,mlle41 #aah ,spa91 ,blonde lace =1 #dj1 #acd ,/phanie1 #beg;ff1 #bfe;ff ,/oop1 ,m4 de1 #gi1 #hd ,syria1 #bf ,syssele1 #adi ,?ielt lace region1 #ig;ff ,?\r\t lace region1 #ig;ff ,tor*on lace1 #dj1 #id1 #ii1 #aej1 #aeb1 #bih ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,bobb9s =1 #bhi ,designs (1 #cja1 #cjc ,tea*+ (1 #afb ,turnh\t1 #dc1 #ace1 #adc1 #add1 #afe ,lace region (1 #di;ff ,union ,patriotique des ,femmes ,belges1 #ag ,val5ci5nes 7t[n71 #cj1 #cd1 #adg ,val5ci5nes lace1 #ca1 #dj1 #he1 #hi1 #id1 #ii1 #ajb1 #aje1 #abc1 #adi1 #aej1 #aea1 #aeb1 #aee1 #aef1 #afc1 #aff1 #bdh1 #bdi ,areas produc+1 #gi;ff1 #hg1 #bgg ,bobb9s =1 #bhh ,duty on1 #ij ,me%1 #bg1 #da1 #ga1 #ij ,me% design1 #bie ,me?od ( mak+1 #bif ,prices paid =1 #bed;ff ,s*ool =1 #aaj1 #beb ,values ( lace1 #ca1 #hh1 #ij1 #bbe1 #bfi ,see also ,prices ,van ,hoeimess51 ,cur1 #agf ,v5etian ,po9t lace1 #bjf ,m$allions1 #aib1 #baj ,v>ieties (1 #ci ,see also ,v5ise ,v5ice1 #bi1 #cj1 #add1 #bjf ,v5ise lace1 #ci1 #afi1 #ahb1 #ahi1 #baf1 #bcg1 #bea1 #beb ,areas produc+1 #bgg ,me?od ( mak+1 #agh1 #aib1 #bhe1 #bhf 8,que5's ,clo?0 (1 #aic;ff ,vynck1 #beb1 #bed ,wages paid lace work]s1 #dd1 #fe1 #gc1 #hi1 #ib1 #aaj1 #aab;ff1 #abd1 #agb1 #bah1 #bbh1 #bej1 #beh1 #bfh ,wevelghem1 #ib ,:itlock1 ,mrs4 ,br&1 #af ,wyngh5e lace region1 #ig;ff ,burgoma/] (1 #aah ,ypres1 #cf1 #hg1 #ij1 #adc1 #bga ,zele1 ,lace s*ool at1 #gf1 #afb1 #bfe;ff ,,wom5 ( ,,belgium ,,turn+ ,,trag$y ,,to ,,triumph ,a ,book ( ,gripp+ ,human ,int]e/ ,by ,,*>lotte ,,kellogg ,an absorb+ly int]e/+ n>rative ( p]sonal exp]i5ce by ! only woman memb] ( ! ,relief ,commission1 :o tells 9 mov+ language ! /ory ( ! unbreakable _s su/a9+ ! ,belgians & ! noble s]vice ! ,belgian wom5 h r5d]$ & inspir$ 9 a l& made desolate by w>4 ,introduction by ,,h]b]t ,c4 ,,hoov]1 ,*airman1 ,commission = 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