,transcrib]'s ,note3 ,! ,table ( ,cont5ts 0 add$ by ! ,transcrib]4 ,,s\? ,,k5s+ton ,,museum ,,art ,,h&books4 ,,edit$ ,,by ,,william ,,maskell4 ,,no4 #a4--,,textile ,,fabrics4 ,^! ,h&books are repr9ts ( ! prefaces or introductions to ! l>ge catalogues ( ! *ief divisions ( works ( art 9 ! ,museum at ,s\? ,k5s+ton2 arrang$ & s f> abridg$ z to br+ ea* into a portable %ape4 ,! ,lords ( ! ,committee ( ,c\ncil on ,education hav+ det]m9$ on ! publication ( !m1 ! editor tru/s t !y w meet ! purpose int5d$2 namely1 to be useful1 n alone = ! collections at ,s\? ,k5s+ton b = o!r collections1 by enabl+ ! public at a trifl+ co/ to und]/& some?+ ( ! hi/ory & "* ( ! subjects treat$ (4 ,! au?orities ref]r$ to by ! au?ors w be f\nd nam$ 9 ! l>ge catalogues2 :]e are also giv5 detail$ descriptions ( ! v num]\s examples 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,,textile ,,fabrics4 ,,by ,,! ,,v ,,rev4 ,,daniel ,,rock1 ,d4,d4 ,,) ,,num]\s ,,woodcuts4 ,illu/ration ,publi%$ = ! ,committee ( ,c\ncil on ,education ,,by ,,*apman ,,& ,,hall1 #aic1 ,,piccadilly4 #ahgf4 ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,taylor ,,& ,,co41 ,,little ,,que5 ,,/reet1 ,,l9coln',s ,,inn ,,fields4 ,,cont5ts ,page ,,*apt] ,i #a ,,*apt] ,,ii #g ,,*apt] ,,iii #ad ,,*apt] ,,iv #bd ,,*apt] ,v #ce ,,*apt] ,,vi #di ,,*apt] ,,vii #gj ,,*apt] ,,viii #gh ,,*apt] ,,ix #hh ,,*apt] ,x #ie ,,*apt] ,,xi #ajd ,,index #aac ,,li/ ,,( ,,woodcuts4 ,page ,indian woman reel+ silk #ac ,ladies 9 fifte5? c5tury sp9n+ & weav+ #cd ,mortu>y clo? #dd ,silk damask ) imitat$ ,arabic lett]s #df ,ladies 9 f\rte5? c5tury c>d+ & sp9n+ #dh ,byzant9e ,dalmatic #ea ,sicilian silk damask #eg ,flor5t9e silk damask #fb ,"p ( ! ,syon ,cope #hd ,embroid]$ saddle-clo? #hg ,anci5t bann] ( ! city ( ,/rasburg #ia ,embroid]$ hang+s ( a b$ #id ,bann] ( ! tape/ry work]s ( ,lyons #ig ,tape/ry ( ! f\rte5? c5tury #ih ,! weav]1 9 #aegd #ajj ,tape/ry ( ! fifte5? c5tury #ajb ,/ate gloves ( ,l\is ! ?irte5? #aab ,,textiles4 ,,*apt] ,i4 ,"u its wide/ acceptation ! ^w 8textile0 means e k9d ( /uff1 no matt] its mat]ial1 wr\ght 9 ! loom4 ,:e!r1 !re=e1 ! ?reads are spun f ! produce ( ! animal1 vegetable1 or m9]al k+dom2 :e!r ( %eep's wool1 goats' hair1 camels' wool1 or camels' hair2 :e!r ( flax1 hemp1 mall[1 or ! filam5ts drawn out ( ! leaves ( plants ( ! lily & asphodel tribes ( fl[]s1 or ! fibr\s coat+ ab\t pods1 or cotton2 :e!r ( gold1 silv]1 or ( any o!r metal2 ! webs f all su* mat]ials are textiles4 ,unlike ^! are o!r appliances = g>m5t-mak+ 9 _m c\ntries2 & ( su* mat]ials n ! lea/ curi\s1 if n odd to our ideas1 is pap]1 :i* is s mu* employ$ = ! purpose by ! ,japanese4 ,a c>eful ref]5ce to a map ( ! _w w %[ u ! mat]ials :i* f ! e>lie/ ages ! inhabitants ( ! _w _h at h&1 9 e clime1 = mak+ articles ( dress4 ,9 all ! cold] regions ! well-furr$ sk9s ( sev]al families ( bea/s c\ld1 by ! ready help ( a ?orn = a ne$le & ( ! animal's own s9ews = ?read1 be fa%ion$ aft] a mann] into v>i\s k9ds ( clo?+4 ,%eep1 9 a primitive p]iod1 7 br$ = raim5t p]haps z mu* z = food4 ,at fir/1 ! locks ( wool torn away f ! animal's back by brambles 7 ga!r$3 aft]w>ds %e>+ 0 ?\ght ( & foll[$ 9 "s c\ntries1 :ile 9 o!rs ! wool 0 n cut (f b pluck$ by ! h& away f ! liv+ creature4 ,obta9$ by ei!r me?od ! fleeces 7 spun g5]ally by wom5 f ! di/aff4 ,?is v anci5t daily "w 0 foll[$ by wom5 among our ,anglo-saxon ance/ors ( all ranks ( life1 f ! k+'s daught] d[nw>ds4 ,sp9n+ f a di/aff is ev5 n[ common 9 _m c\ntries on ! cont95t1 p>ticul>ly s all ?r\gh ,italy4 ,long ago ! "n ( sp9dle-tree 0 giv5 9 ,engl& to ! ,euonymus plant1 on acc\nt ( ! good sp9dles :i* its wood af=ds3 & ! t]m 8sp9/]0 z mean+ e unm>ri$ woman ev5 ( ! g5tle/ blood is d]iv$ f ! same occupation4 ,e n[ & !n f ! graves 9 :i* wom5 ( ! ,briti% & succe$+ epo*s 7 buri$1 are pick$ up ! elaborately ornam5t$ lead5 :orls :i* 7 fa/5$ at ! l[] end ( _! sp9dles to give !m a due weight & /ead9ess4 ,a curi\s in/ance ( ! use ( wooll5 /uff n wov5 b plait$1 among ! old] /ock ( ! ,britons1 0 v lately br\ght to light :ile cutt+ ?r\gh an e>ly ,celtic grave-hill or b>r[ 9 ,york%ire3 ! dead body _h be5 wrapp$1 z 0 %[n by ! few unrott$ %r$s /ill cleav+ to its bones1 9 a wooll5 %r\d ( co>se & loose fabric wr\ght by ! plait+ process )\t a loom4 ,z "t pass$ by x br\ght ! loom1 fa%ion$ aft] its simple/ =m1 to ! f> we/1 & its use became g5]al ?r\gh\t ! ,briti% isl&s4 ,! art ( dye+ soon foll[$2 & s beautiful 7 ! t9ts :i* our ,britons knew h[ to give to _! wools t /rang]s wond]$ at & 7 jeal\s ( _! spl5d\r4 ,a /rict rule limit$ ! col\r ( ! (ficial dress assign$ to ea* ( ! ?ree ranks into :i* ! b>dic ord] 0 di/+ui%$ to "o simple unbrok5 %ade3 spotless :ite1 symbolic ( sunlight & hol9ess1 = ! druid or prie/2 sky-blue1 emblem ( peace1 = ! b>d or poet2 & gre51 ! liv]y ( ! wood & field1 = ! tea*] ( ! suppos$ qualities ( h]bs & lee*-craft4 ,po/ulants1 aga91 ask+ leave to be admitt$ into ei!r rank 7 recogniz$ by ! robe b>r$ ) /ripes ( :ite1 blue1 & gre51 :i* !y _h to we> dur+ ! t]m ( _! initiation4 ,) reg>d to ! bulk ( ! p1 we le>n f ,dion ,cassius 7born ,a4 ,d4 #aee7 t ! g>m5ts worn by !m 7 ( a texture wr\ght 9 a squ>e patt]n ( sev]al col\rs2 &1 speak+ ( ,boadicea1 ! same writ] tells u t %e usually _h on1 "u h] cloak1 a motley tunic *equ]$ all ov] ) _m col\rs4 ,?is g>m5t we are fairly w>rant$ 9 deem+ to h be5 a native /uff1 wov5 ( wor/$ aft] a patt]n 9 t9ts & design l "o or o!r ( ! pres5t ,scot* plaids4 ,pl9y1 :o seems to h ga!r$ a great deal ( 8 natural hi/ory f scraps ( he>say1 mo/ likely includ$ ^! anci5t sorts ( ,briti% textiles ) ^? f ,gaul1 :5 he tells u t to weave ) a good numb] ( ?reads1 s z to "w ! clo?s call$ polymita1 0 fir/ taught 9 ,alex&ria2 to divide by *ecks1 9 ,gaul4 ,! native botanical home ( cotton is 9 ! ea/4 ,india almo/ ev]y:]e ?r\gh\t h] wide-spread c\ntries array$1 z %e /ill arrays1 h]self 9 cotton1 ga!r$ f a plant ( ! mall[ family :i* has its wild gr[? !re2 & 9 ! same vegetable produce ! l[] ord]s ( p dwell+ /ill fur!r to ! ea/ also clo!d !mselves4 ,hemp1 a plant ( ! nettle tribe & call$ by botani/s 8cannabis sativa10 0 ( old well kn[n 9 ! f> nor? ( ,g]many & ?r\gh\t ! anci5t ,sc&9avia4 ,m ?an two ?\s& ye>s ago we f9d x ?us spok5 ( by ,h]odotus3 8,hemp gr[s 9 ! c\ntry ( ! ,scy?ians1 :i*1 except 9 ! ?ickness & height ( ! /alk1 v mu* resembles flax2 9 ! qualities m5tion$1 h[ev]1 ! hemp is mu* sup]ior4 ,x gr[s 9 a wild /ate1 & is also cultivat$4 ,! ,?racians make clo?+ ( x v l l95 clo?2 nor c\ld any p]son1 )\t be+ v well acqua9t$ ) ! sub/ance1 say :e!r ?is clo?+ is made ( hemp or flax40 ,f 8cannabis10 its "n 9 ,lat91 we h tak5 our ^w 8canvas10 to mean any texture wov5 ( hemp5 ?read4 ,al?\gh flax is to be f\nd gr[+ wild 9 _m p>ts ( ,great ,brita91 x is v d\btful :e!r = _m ages our ,briti% =efa!rs 7 aw>e ( ! use ( ?is plant = clo?+ purposes3 !y w\ld o!rwise h left beh9d !m "s %r$ ( l95 9 "o or o!r ( _! _m graves4 ,foll[+1 z !y did1 ! usage ( be+ buri$ 9 ! be/ ( ! g>m5ts !y 7 accu/om$ to1 or mo/ lov$ :5 alive1 _! bodies w\ld h be5 f\nd dress$ 9 "s small article ( l95 texture1 _h !y ev] worn x4 ,we mu/ g to ! valley ( ! ,nile if we wi% to le>n ! e>lie/ hi/ory ( ! f9e/ flax5 textiles4 ,"t out ( m9d ! ,egyptians 7 fam\s z well = ! gr[? ( flax z = ! beautiful l95 :i* !y wove out ( x1 & :i* became to !m a mo/ pr(itable1 because s widely s\ght =1 article ( comm]ce4 ,_! own ^w 8byssus0 = ! plant itself became among ! ,greeks1 & aft]w>ds among ! ,lat9 nations1 ! t]m = l95s wr\ght 9 ,egyptian looms4 ,long be=e ! olde/ book 9 ! _w 0 writt51 ! till]s ( ! gr\nd all ov] ,egypt _h be5 he$ful 9 s[+ flax1 & anxi\s ab\t its h>ve/4 ,x 0 "o ( _! /aple crops1 & h5ce 0 x t1 9 puni%m5t ( ,ph>aoh1 ! hail plague :i* at ! bidd+ ( ,moses fell f heav5 de/roy$ ?r\gh\t ! l& ! flax j z x 0 gett+ ripe4 ,flax grew also ^u ! banks ( ! ,jordan1 & 9 ,juda g5]ally2 & ! wom5 ( ! c\ntry1 l ,rahab1 c>efully dri$ x :5 pull$1 & /ack$ x = future hackl+ ^u ! ro(s ( _! h\ses4 ,nev]!less1 x 0 f ,egypt1 z ,solomon h9ts1 t ! ,jews _h to draw _! f9e l954 ,at a lat] p]iod1 among ! woes =etold to ,egypt1 ! prophet ,isaiah w>ns h] t 8!y %all be conf\nd$ :o wr\ght 9 comb+ & weav+ f9e l9540 ,h[ f> ! reputation ( ,egyptian workman%ip 9 ! craft ( ! loom _h spread abroad is %[n u by ! way 9 :i*1 besides sacr$1 hea!ni% antiquity has spok5 ( x4 ,h]odotus says1 8,amasis k+ ( ,egypt gave to ! ,m9]va ( ,l9dus a l95 corslet well wor?y ( inspection30 & fur!r on1 speak+ ( ano!r corslet :i* ,amasis _h s5t ! ,lac$monians1 he obs]ves t x 0 ( l95 & _h a va/ numb] ( figures ( animals inwov5 into its fabric1 & 0 likewise embroid]$ ) gold & tree-wool4 ,?is la/ 0 especially to be admir$ because ea* ( ! twi/s1 al?\gh ( f9e texture1 conta9$ )9 x #cfj ?reads1 all ( !m cle>ly visible4 ,b we h mat]ial z well z writt5 pro(s at h& to %[ ! excell5ce ( old ,egyptian "w 9 l954 ,dur+ late ye>s _m mummies h be5 br\ght to ?is c\ntry f ,egypt1 & ! n>r[ b&ages ) :i* !y 7 f\nd to h be5 s admirably &1 accord+ ev5 to our mod]n requirem5ts ( *irurgical fitness1 s arti/ically swa!d h be5 unwrapp$4 ,^! b&ages are (t5 s f9e 9 _! texture z fully to v]ify ! praises ( old be/[$ ^u ! beauty ( ! ,egyptian loom-"w4 ,we le>n f ,sir ,g>d9] ,wilk9son t 8! f9e/ piece ( mummy-clo?1 s5t to ,engl& by ,mr4 ,salt1 & n[ 9 ! ,briti% museum1 ( l951 appe>s to be made ( y>ns ( ne>ly #ajj hanks 9 ! p\nd1 ) #adj ?reads 9 an in* 9 ! w>p & ab\t #fd 9 ! wo(40 ,ano!r piece ( l951 :i* ! same di/+ui%$ travell] obta9$ at ,!bes1 has #aeb ?reads 9 ! w>p & #ga 9 ! wo(4 ,al?\gh f all antiquity upw>ds1 till )9 "s few ye>s back1 ! unbrok5 belief _h be5 t su* mummy-clo?+ 0 und\bt$ly made ( l95 wov5 out ( pure unmix$ flax1 "s writ]s l$1 or r misl$1 by a few /ray words 9 ,h]odotus 7speak+ ( ! corslet ( ,amasis1 quot$ j n[7 took t hi/orian to mean wool1 & argu$ t ,egyptian textiles wr\ght a ?\s& ye>s be=e 7 mix$ ) cotton4 ,:ile ! "q 0 agitat$1 specim5s ( mummy-clo? 7 submitt$ to ! judgm5t ( sev]al p]sons 9 ! weav+ trade deem$ mo/ compet5t to speak ^u ! matt]4 ,help$ only by ! f+]s' feel & ! nak$ eye1 "s among !m agre$ t su* textures 7 really wov5 ( cotton4 ,?is op9ion 0 b %ortliv$4 ,o!r individuals1 m philosophical1 w5t to "w on a bett] pa?4 ,9 ! fir/ place !y cle>ly le>n$1 ?r\gh ! microscope1 ! exact & nev]-v>y+ physical /ructure ( bo? ^! vegetable sub/ances4 ,!y f\nd cotton to be 9 its fibre a transp>5t tube )\t jo9ts1 flatt5$ s t its inw>d surfaces are 9 contact along its axis & also twi/$ spirally r\nd its axis2 flax on ! contr>y is a transp>5t tube1 jo9t$ l a cane & n flatt5$ or twi/$ spirally4 ,exam9$ 9 ! same way1 old samples ( byssus or mummy-b&ages f ,egypt 9 e in/ance 7 asc]ta9$ to be ( f9e unmix$ flax5 l954 ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,= _m reasons ! hi/ory ( silk is n only curi\s b highly int]e/+4 ,9 ! e>lie/ ages ev5 its exi/5ce 0 unkn[n1 & :5 discov]$ ! k ( x /ole =? f ! f> ea/1 & /raggl$ we/w>d v sl[ly4 ,= all t l5g!n$ p]iod dur+ :i* _! rem>kable civilization la/$1 ! old] ,egyptians probably nev] saw silk3 nei!r !y1 nor ! ,israelites1 nor any o!r ( ! mo/ anci5t k+doms ( ! e>?1 knew ( x 9 any %ape1 ei!r z a simple twi/ or z a wov5 /uff4 ,n ! smalle/ %r$ ( silk has hi!rto be5 f\nd 9 ! tombs or amid ! ru9s ( ! ,ph>aonic p]iod4 ,no :]e does ,holy ,writ1 old or new1 tell any?+ ( silk b 9 "o s+le place1 ! ,apocalypse xviii4 #ab4 ,x is true t 9 ! ,engli% au?oriz$ v]sion we read ( 8silk0 z if spok5 ( by ,ezekiel xvi4 #aj1 #ac2 & aga91 9 ,prov]bs xxxi4 #bb2 yet !re c be no d\bt t 9 bo? ^! passages1 ! ^w silk is wrong ?r\gh ! translators misund]/&+ ! orig9al ,hebrew4 ,! ,hebrew ^w is n s r5d]$ 9 any anci5t v]sion3 & ! be/ ,hebrai/s h decid$ t silk 0 n kn[n by ! old ,israelites4 ,:5 ,/4 ,john speaks ( x he includes x ) ! gold1 & silv]1 & preci\s /ones1 & pe>ls1 & f9e l95 & purple :i*1 ) _m o!r co/ly freights1 m]*ants 7 wont to br+ to ,rome4 ,x 0 long aft] ! days ( ,ezekiel t silk 9 its raw =m only1 made up into hanks1 fir/ f\nd its way to ,egypt1 we/]n ,asia1 & ea/]n ,europe4 ,we owe to ,ari/otle ! e>lie/ notice ( ! silkworm1 & al?\gh 8 acc\nt be incorrect x has mu* value1 because he gives u in=mation ab\t ! orig9al importation ( raw silk into ! we/]n _w4 ,br\ght f ,*9a ?r\gh ,india ! silk came by wat] across ! ,arabian ocean1 up ! ,r$ ,sea1 & !nce ov] ! i/hmus ( ,suez 7or p]haps r by ! ov]l& r\te1 ?r\gh ,p]sia7 to ! small b comm]cial isl& ( ,cos1 ly+ (f ! coa/ ( ,asia m9or4 ,pamphile1 ! daught] ( ,plates1 is report$ to h fir/ wov5 silk 9 ,cos4 ,"h1 by female h&s1 7 wr\ght ^? light ?9 gauzes :i* became s fa%ionable2 ^! 7 /igmatiz$ by "s ( ! ,lat9 poets1 z well z by hea!n morali/s1 z any?+ b seemly = wom5's we>4 ,tibullus speaks ( !m2 & ,s5eca condemns !m3 8,i behold0 he says 8silk5 g>m5ts1 if g>m5ts !y c be call$1 :i* are a protection nei!r = ! body nor = %ame40 ,lat] /ill1 & 9 ! ,*ri/ian era1 we h an e*o to ! rem>ks ( ,s5eca 9 ! words ( ,sol9us3 8,?is is silk1 9 :i* at fir/ wom5 b n[ ev5 m5 h be5 l$1 by _! crav+s aft] luxury1 to %[ r ?an to clo! _! bodies40 ,look+ ov] v anci5t manuscripts we (t5 f9d betwe5 ri*ly gilt illum9ations1 to keep !m f h>m or be+ hurt ?r\gh ! rubb+s ( ! next leaf1 a cov]+ ( ! ?9ne/ gauze1 j z we n[ put %eets ( silv] pap] = t purpose ov] engrav+s4 ,x is n impossible t "s at lea/ ( ^! may be %r$s f ! transluc5t textiles :i* f\nd fav\r 9 ! _w = s long a "t dur+ ! classic p]iod4 ,! curi\s example ( su* gauzy int]leaf+s 9 ! manuscript ( ,!odulph1 n[ at ,puy en ,velay1 w occur p]haps to m ?an "o ( our read]s4 ,x may be easily imag9$ t silk5 g>m5ts 7 br\ght1 at an e>ly p]iod1 to imp]ial ,rome4 ,n only1 h[ev]1 7 ! prices ask$ = !m s high t few c\ld af=d to buy su* robes = _! wives & daught]s1 b1 at fir/1 !y 7 look$ ^u z q unbecom+ = m5's we>2 h5ce1 by a law ( ! ,roman s5ate "u ,tib]ius1 x 0 enact$3 8,ne ve/is s]ica vicos fd>et40 ,:ile notic+ h[ womani% ,caligula became 9 8 dress ,suetonius rem>ks 8 silk5 attire3 8,aliqu&o s]icatus et cycladatus40 ,an exception 0 made by "s emp]ors = v great occasions1 & bo? ,titus & ,vespasian wore dresses ( silk :5 !y celebrat$ at ,rome _! triumph ov] ,juda4 ,heliogabalus 0 ! fir/ emp]or :o wore :ole silk = clo?+4 ,aurelian1 on ! o!r h&1 nei!r _h himself 9 8 w>drobe a g>m5t :olly silk nor gave "o to be worn by ano!r4 ,:5 8 own wife begg$ him to all[ h] to h a s+le mantle ( purple silk he repli$1 8,f> be x f u to all[ ?read to be reckon$ wor? its weight 9 gold40 ,= !n a p\nd ( gold 0 ! price ( a p\nd ( silk4 ,clo?+ made :olly or 9 "p out ( silk1 nev]!less1 became e ye> m & m s\ght =4 ,s remun]ative 0 ! trade ( weav+ ! raw mat]ial into its v>i\s =ms1 t1 by ! revis$ code ( laws = ! ,roman empire publi%$ ,a4 ,d4 #ecc1 a monopoly 9 x 0 giv5 to ! c\rt1 & looms work$ by wom5 7 set up 9 ! imp]ial palace4 ,?us ,byzantium became & long cont9u$ fam\s = ! beauty ( its silk5 /uffs4 ,/ill1 ! raw silk itself _h to be br\ght ?i!r f abroad2 until two ,greek monks1 :o _h liv$ _m ye>s among ! ,*9ese1 le>nt ! :ole process ( re>+ ! worm4 ,return+1 !y br\ght ) !m a numb] ( eggs hidd5 9 _! walk+-/aves2 &1 c>ry+ !m to ,con/ant9ople1 !y pres5t$ ^! eggs to ! emp]or :o gladly receiv$ !m4 ,:5 hat*$ ! worms 7 di/ribut$ ov] ,greece & ,asia m9or1 & v soon ! we/]n _w re>$ its own silk4 ,9 "s places1 at lea/ 9 ,greece1 ! weav+ n only ( ! f9] k9ds ( clo? b ( silk fell into ! h&s ( ! ,jews4 ,b5jam9 ( ,tudela1 writ+ 9 #aafa1 tells u t ! city ( ,!bes conta9$ ab\t two ?\s& ,jewi% inhabitants4 8,^! are ! mo/ em95t manufactur]s ( silk & purple clo? 9 all ,greece40 ,s\? ,italy wr\ght ri* silk5 /uffs by ! end ( ! elev5? c5tury2 = we are told by our c\ntryman ,ord]icus ,vitalis1 :o di$ 9 ! fir/ half ( ! twelf? c5tury1 t ,ma9]ius1 ! abbot ( ,/4 ,evr\l at ,uzey 9 ,norm&y1 on com+ home br\ght ) him f ,apulia sev]al l>ge pieces ( silk1 & gave to 8 *ur* f\r ( ! f9e/ ones1 ) :i* f\r copes 7 made = ! *ant]s4 ,f a feel+ alive 9 ! middle ages ?r\gh\t ! l5g? & bread? ( ,*ri/5dom1 t ! be/ ( all ?+s ought to be giv5 = ! s]vice ( ! ,*ur*1 ! g>m5ts ( its celebrat+ prie/hood 71 if n always1 at lea/ v (t5 :olly ( silk2 holos]icus4 ,ow+ to ?is fact1 we are n[ able to le>n f ! few b tatt]$ %r$s be=e u :at elegantly design$ & gorge\s /uffs ! =eign m$ival loom c\ld weave1 & :at beautiful embroid]y our own c\ntrywom5 knew s well h[ to "w4 ,^! specim5s help u also to rightly und]/& ! description ( ! spl5did ve/m5ts enum]at$ ) su* exactness 9 ! old inv5tories ( our ca!drals & p>i% *ur*es1 z well z 9 ! e>ly w>drobe accompts ( our k+s1 & 9 ! wills & beque/s ( dignifi$ ecclesia/ics & nobility4 ,com+ we/w>d among u1 ^! mu* covet$ /uffs br\ght ) !m ! sev]al names by :i* !y 7 commonly kn[n ?r\gh\t ! ea/1 :e!r ,greece1 ,asia m9or1 or ,p]sia4 ,h5ce :5 we read ( samit1 ciclat\n1 c5dal1 baudek91 & o!r su* t]ms unkn[n to trade n[-a-days1 we %\ld be> 9 m9d t1 not)/&+ ! wide v>iety ( spell+ :i* ea* ( ^! appellations has run ?r\gh1 we arrive at _! true d]ivations1 & discov] 9 :at c\ntry & by ^: h&s !y 7 wr\ght4 ,z comm]ce grew ^! f9e silk5 textiles 7 br\ght to our m>kets1 & articles ( dress 7 made ( silk = m5's z well z wom5's we> among ! weal?y4 ,at :at p]iod ! raw mat]ial came to be import$ "h1 n s mu* = embroid]y z to be wr\ght 9 ! loom1 we d n exactly "k2 b f sev]al sides we le>n t our c\ntrywom5 ( all degrees1 9 v e>ly times1 busi$ !mselves 9 weav+4 ,among ! home occupations ( maid5s ,/4 ,aldhelm1 at ! end ( ! sev5? c5tury1 includes weav+4 ,9 ! c\ncil at ,clove%oo1 9 #gdg1 nuns are exhort$ to sp5d _! "t 9 read+ or s++ psalms r ?an weav+ & knitt+ va+lori\s g>m5ts ( _m col\rs4 ,by t curi\s old ,engli% book ! #8,ancr5 ,riwle1' writt5 t[>ds ! end ( ! twelf? c5tury1 ankresses are =bidd5 to make purses or blodb5des 7:i* 7 n>r[ /rips to b9d r\nd ! arm aft] ble$+71 to ga9 fri5ds !re)4 ,7 x n t ! weav+ especially ( silk 0 s g5]ally foll[$ 9 ! cloi/] by ,engli% wom51 x _h be5 useless to h s /rongly disc\nt5anc$ ! practice4 ,b on silk weav+ by our wom5 9 small h&-looms a v important witness1 especially ab\t sev]al curi\s specim5s 9 ! great collection at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 is ,john ,g>l&1 born at ! beg9n+ ( ! ?irte5? c5tury 9 ,london1 :]e _m ( 8 namesakes 7 & are /ill kn[n4 ,fir/1 a ,john ,g>l&1 9 #aagj1 held a preb5d's /all 9 ,/4 ,paul's ca!dral4 ,ano!r 0 %]iff at a lat] p]iod4 ,a ?ird1 a weal?y drap] ( ,london1 gave freely t[>ds ! build+ ( a *ur* 9 ,som]set%ire4 ,a f\r?1 :o di$ 9 #adfa1 lies buri$ 9 ,/4 ,sy!'s2 &1 at ! pres5t day1 no few] ?an tw5ty-two tradesm5 ( t "n1 ( :om six are m]*ants ( high /&+ 9 ! city1 are m5tion$ 9 ! ,london po/ (fice directory = ! ye> #ahfh4 ,we give ^! in/ances z "s h tri$ to rob u ( ,john ,g>l& by say+ he 0 n an ,engli%man1 ?\gh he has himself told u he 0 8born 9 ,engl& & br\ght up 9 ,france40 ,9 a k9d ( %ort diction>y drawn up by t writ] & pr9t$ at ! end ( #8,p>is s\s ,philippe le ,bel1' edit$ by ,m4 ,g]aud1 our c\ntryman tells u t1 besides ! usual homely textiles1 co/ly clo?-(-gold webs 7 wr\ght by wom52 & v likely1 among _! o!r productions1 7 ^? blodb5des 8c+ula0 ! weav+ ( :i* _h be5 =bidd5 to ankresses & nuns4 ,p]haps1 also1 "s ( ! n>r[ gold-wr\ght ribbons 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton collection1 nos4 #abcc1 #abef1 #abgj1 #hefi1 etc41 may h be5 s employ$4 ,john ,g>l&'s 8c+ula0 may also mean ! ri* girdles or sa%es worn by wom5 r\nd ! wai/1 ( :i* !re is "o example 9 ! same collection1 no4 #hega4 ,( ?is sort is t f9e bord]1 amb] col\r$ silk & diap]$1 r\nd a ve/m5t f\nd 9 a grave at ,durham2 :i* is describ$ by ,mr4 ,ra9e 9 8 book ab\t ,/4 ,cu?b]t z 8a ?ick lace1 "o in* & a qu>t] broad--evid5tly ow+ its orig91 n to ! ne$le1 b to ! loom40 ,9 an aft] p]iod ! same b&s are %[n on /atu>y1 & 9 ! illum9at$ manuscripts ( ! ?irte5? c5tury3 z in/ances ( ! n>r[ girdle1 ! effigy ( a lady 9 ,romney *ur*1 ,hants & ( ,ann ( ,bohemia 9 ,we/m9/] abbey may be ref]r$ to2 bo? to be f\nd 9 ,hollis's monum5tal effigies ( ,great ,brita92 = ! b& ab\t ! head1 ! examples 9 ! wood-cuts 9 ,plan*'s ,briti% co/umes1 p4 #aaf4 ,specim5s ( su* head b&s may be se5 at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 nos4 #hefi1 #hehc1 #hehd1 & #hehe4 ,!y are1 no d\bt1 ! old snd ( ! ,anglo-saxon p]iod4 ,= ladies !y 7 wr\ght ( silk & gold2 wom5 ( l[] degree wore !m ( simpl] /uff4 ,! silk5 snood1 us$ 9 our own "t by "y unm>ri$ wom5 9 ,scotl&1 is a tru?ful witness to ! fa%ion 9 vogue dur+ ,anglo-saxon & lat] ages 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! bre$+ ( ! worm & ! manufacture ( its silk spread !mselves ) /eady ?\gh sl[ /eps ov] mo/ ( ! c\ntries :i* bord] on ! %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean2 s t1 by ! t5? c5tury1 ^? processes _h rea*$ f ! f> ea/ to ! utt]mo/ we/]n limits ( t sea4 ,ev5 !n1 & a long "t aft]1 ! natural hi/ory ( ! silkworm became kn[n b to a v few4 ,our c\ntryman ,alex&] ,neckham1 abbot ( ,cir5ce/] ,a4 ,d4 #abac1 0 probably ! fir/ :o tri$ to help o!rs to und]/& ! habits ( ! insect3 8 brief explanation may be f\nd 9 8 once popul> book #8,de natura r]um1' :i* has be5 lately repr9t$ by ord] ( ! ,ma/] ( ! ,rolls4 ,illu/ration3 ,indian woman reel+ silk f a :eel4 ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,( ! sev]al raw mat]ials :i* f ! e>lie/ p]iods h be5 employ$ 9 weav+1 ?\gh n 9 su* frequ5cy z silk1 "o is gold3 :i*1 :5 judici\sly br\ght 91 adds n a b>b>ic b arti/ical ri*ness4 ,! e>lie/ writt5 notice :i* we h ab\t ! employm5t ( ?is preci\s metal 9 ! loom1 or ( ! way 9 :i* x 0 wr\ght = su* a purpose1 is 9 ! ,p5tateu*4 ,among ! sacr$ ve/m5ts made = ,a>on 0 an ephod ( gold1 violet1 & purple1 & sc>let twice dy$1 & f9e twi/$ l951 ) embroid]$ "w2 & ! workman cut also ?9 plates ( gold & drew !m small into /rips1 t !y might be twi/$ ) ! wo( ( ! a=esaid col\rs4 ,in/ead ( 8/rip10 ! au?oris$ prote/ant v]sion says 8wire20 ! ,d\ay translation reads 8?read30 b nei!r c be "r1 = bo? ( ^! ,engli% words mean a some?+ r\nd or twi/$ 9 ! %ape giv5 to ! gold be=e be+ wove1 :]eas ! metal mu/ h be5 work$ 9 q flat1 z we le>n f ! text4 ,! use ( gold = weav+1 bo? ) l95 or by itself1 exi/$ almo/ c]ta9ly among ! ,egyptians long be=e ! days ( ,moses4 ,! psalmi/ describ+ ! dress ( ! k+'s daught] 7t is1 ,ph>aoh's daught]71 n only speaks ( h] be+ 89 raim5t ( ne$lework0 b t 8h] clo?+ is ( wr\ght gold40 ,9 ord] to be wov5 ! preci\s metal 0 at fir/ wr\ght 9 a flatt5$1 nev] 9 a r\nd or wire %ape4 ,to ?is h\r ! ,*9ese & ! p ( ,india "w ! gold into _! /uffs aft] ! anci5t =m4 ,9 ! same fa%ion1 ev5 n[1 ! ,italians weave _! lama d'oro1 or ! m gli/5+ toca3 ^? clo?s ( gold :i* to all ,asiatic & _m ,european eyes d n gl>e ) too mu* g>i%ness1 b %9e ) a gl[ t befits ! raim5t ( p]sonages 9 high /ation4 ,among ! nations ( anci5t ,asia g>m5ts made ( webs dy$ ) ! co/ly purple t9t1 & int]wov5 ) gold1 7 on all gr& occasions worn by k+s & pr9ces4 ,s celebrat$ did ! ,m$es & ,p]sians become 9 su* works ( ! loom1 t clo?s ( extraord9>y beauty got _! sev]al names f ^? peoples1 & ,m$ean1 ,lydian1 & ,p]sian textiles 7 ev]y:]e s\ght =4 ,writ+ ( ! w>s c>ri$ on 9 ,asia & ,india by ,alex&] ! great almo/ f\r c5turies be=e ! bir? ( ,*ri/1 ,qu9tus ,curtius (t5 speaks ab\t ! purple & gold g>m5ts worn by ! ,p]sians & m ea/]n ,asiatics4 ,among ! _m ?\s&s ( ^? :o came =? f ,damascus to ! ,greek g5]al1 ,p>m5io1 numb]s 7 s clad3 8,!y wore robes spl5did ) gold & purple40 ,all ov] ,india ! same fa%ion 0 foll[$ 9 dress4 ,:5 an ,indian k+ ) 8 two sons came to ,alex&]1 ! ?ree 7 s array$4 ,pr9ces & ! high nobility1 all ov] ! ea/1 are call$ by ,qu9tus ,curtius 8purpurati40 ,n only g>m5ts b hang+s 7 made ( ! same co/ly fabric4 ,:5 ,alex&] wi%$ to give "s ambassadors a spl5did reception1 ! gold5 c\*es ^u :i* !y lay to eat _! meat 7 scre5$ ) clo?s ( gold & purple2 & ! ,indian gue/s !mselves 7 n less gorge\sly clo!d 9 _! own national co/ume1 z !y came we>+ l95 7p]haps cotton7 g>m5ts equally respl5d5t4 ,! dress worn by ,d>ius1 z he w5t =? to d battle1 is ?us describ$ by ! same hi/orian3 8! wai/ "p ( ! royal purple tunic 0 wove 9 :ite1 & ^u 8 mantle ( clo? ( gold 7 figur$ two gold5 hawks z if peck+ at "o ano!r ) _! beaks40 ,f ! ea/ ?is love = clo? ( gold rea*$ ! s\!rn end ( ,italy1 & !nce soon got to ,rome2 :]e1 ev5 "u its e>ly k+s1 g>m5ts made ( x 7 worn4 ,pl9y1 speak+ ( ?is ri* textile1 says3 8gold may be spun or wov5 l wool1 )\t any wool be+ mix$ ) x40 ,we are told by ,v]rius t ,t>qu9ius ,priscus rode 9 triumph 9 a tunic ( gold2 & ,agripp9a ! wife ( ! emp]or ,claudius1 :5 he exhibit$ ! spectacle ( a naval combat1 sat by him cov]$ ) a robe made entirely ( gold wov5 )\t any o!r mat]ial4 ,ab\t ! ye> #ahdj ! m>quis ,campagna dug up ne> ,rome two old graves1 9 "o ( :i* _h be5 buri$ a ,roman lady ( high bir?1 inf]r$ f ! circum/ance t all ab\t h] rema9s 7 f\nd portions ( su* f9e gold flat ?read1 once =m+ ! burial g>m5t ) :i* %e _h be5 array$ = h] fun]al4 ,:5 pope ,pas*al1 ,a4 ,d4 #hba1 s\ght = ! body ( ,/4 ,cecily :o 0 m>tyr$ 9 ! ye> #bcj1 ! pontiff f\nd ! body 9 ! catacombs1 :ole & dress$ 9 a g>m5t wr\ght all ( gold1 ) "s ( h] raim5t dr5*$ 9 blood ly+ at h] feet4 ,9 mak+ ! f\ndations = ! new ,/4 ,pet]'s at ,rome ! workm5 came ^u & look$ into ! m>ble s>cophagus 9 :i* _h be5 buri$ ,probus ,anicius1 prefect ( ! ,pretorian1 & 8 wife ,proba ,faltonia1 ea* ( ^: bodies 0 wrapp$ 9 a w9d+-%eet wov5 ( pure gold /rips4 ,! wife ( ! emp]or ,honorius di$ sometime ab\t ! ye> #djj1 & :5 h] grave 0 op5$1 9 #aedd1 ! gold5 tissues 9 :i* h] body _h be5 %r\d$ 7 tak5 out & melt$1 am\nt+ 9 weight to ?irty-six p\nds4 ,! late fa!r ,m>*i also f\nd among ! rema9s ( ,/4 ,hyac9?us sev]al fragm5ts ( ! same k9d ( gold5 web4 ,*ild]ic1 ! second k+ ( ! ,m]ov+ean dyna/y1 0 buri$ ,a4 ,d4 #dhb1 at ,t\rnai4 ,9 ! ye> #afec 8 grave 0 discov]$1 & amid ! e>? ab\t x s _m rema9s ( pure gold /rips 7 turn$ up t !re is e gr\nd = ?9k+ t ! ,franki% k+ 0 wrapp$ 9 a mantle ( gold5 /uff = 8 burial4 ,we h reason to conclude t ! /rips ( pure gold out ( :i* ! burial cloak ( ,*ild]ic 0 wov5 7 n r\nd b flat1 f ! fact t 9 a ,m]ov+ean burial gr\nd at ,env]meu ! di/+ui%$ ar*ologi/ ,co*et a few ye>s ago came ^u ! grave once fill$ by a lady ^: head _h be5 wrea!d ) a fillet ( pure gold5 web1 ! tissue ( :i* is ?us describ$3 8,ces fils aussi brillants et aussi frais que s'ils sortai5t de la ma9 de l'ouvri]1 n'tai5t ni tirs ni cords4 ,ils tai5t plats et se composai5t t\t simplem5t de petites lanires d'or d'un millimtre de l>geur1 c\pe mme une feuille d'or paisse de mo9s d'un dixime de millimtre4 ,la longeur totale de quelques-uns atteignait p>fois jusqu' qu9ze ou dix-huit c5timtres40 ,our own c\ntry c furni% an example ( ?is k9d ( gold5 textile4 ,on ,*essel d[n1 9 ! isle ( ,wight1 :5 ,mr4 ,hilli] 0 mak+ "s rese>*es 9 an old ,anglo-saxon place ( burial1 ! digg]s f\nd pieces ( gold /rips1 ?9 & q flat1 :i* are figur$ 9 ,m4 l'abb ,co*et's le>n$ book j m5tion$4 ,( ! same ri* texture mu/ h be5 ! ve/m5t giv5 to ,/4 ,pet]'s at ,rome 9 ! middle ( ! n9? c5tury1 & describ$ 9 ! ,lib] ,pontificalis z made ( ! pure/ gold1 & cov]$ ) preci\s /ones3 8,c>olus rex sancto ,apo/olo obtulit ex purissimo auro et gemmis con/ructam ve/em1 etc40 ,su* a weav+ ( pure gold 01 "h 9 ,engl&1 foll[$ c]ta9ly z late z ! beg9n+ ( ! t5? c5tury2 v likely mu* lat]4 ,9 ! *apt] libr>y belong+ to ,durham ca!dral may be se5 a /ole & maniple1 :i* be> ^! inscriptions3 8lffla$ fi]i precepit4 ,pio episcopo ,fride/ano40 ,fride/an 0 consecrat$ bi%op ( ,w9*e/] ,a4 ,d4 #ije4 ,) ^! webs "u 8 eye1 ,mr4 ,ra9e writes ?us3 8,9 ! fir/1 ! gr\nd "w ( ! :ole is wov5 exclusively ) ?read ( gold4 ,i d n mean by ?read ( gold1 ! silv]-gilt wire frequ5tly us$ 9 su* matt]s1 b real gold ?read1 if ,i may s t]m x1 n r\nd1 b flat4 ,?is is ! "* ( ! :ole web1 ) ! exception ( ! figures1 ! undulat+ cl\d-%ap$ p$e/al ^u :i* !y /&1 ! inscriptions & ! foliage2 = all ( :i*1 h[ev] surpris+ x may appe>1 vacant spaces h be5 left by ! loom1 & !y !mselves aft]w>ds ins]t$ ) ! ne$le40 ,fur!r on1 9 8 description ( a girdle1 ! same writ] tells u3 8,its bread? is exactly sev5-eigh?s ( an in*4 ,x has evid5tly proce$$ f ! loom2 & its two compon5t p>ts are a flatti% ?read ( pure gold1 & a ?read ( sc>let silk40 ,ano!r v rem>kable piece1 a fragm5t 7probably7 ( a /ole1 0 also f\nd lately at ,durham 9 ! grave ( bi%op ,pudsey1 :o 0 buri$ ab\t ! middle ( ! twelf? c5tury4 ,?is 0 exhibit$ at ! ,society ( antiqu>ies1 9 ! pres5t ye>1 #ahge4 ,x is made ( ri* silk1 ) a diap] patt]n 9 gold ?read4 ,?is love = su* glitt]+ attire1 n only = sacr$ use b secul> we>1 la/$ long 9 ,engl&4 ,! gold5 webs w5t "u diff]5t names2 at fir/ !y 7 call$ 8ciclat\n10 8siglaton10 or 8siklat\n10 z ! writ]'s fancy l$ him to spell ! ,p]sian ^w common = !m at ! "t ?r\gh\t ! ea/4 ,by ! old ,engli% ritual pla9 clo? ( gold 0 all[$1 z n[1 to be us$ = :ite :5 t col\r happ5$ to be ord]$ by ! rubric4 ,?us 9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ! second1 among ! ve/m5ts at ! *apel ( ,/4 ,george1 ,w9dsor ca/le1 !re 0 8"o good ve/m5t ( clo? ( gold30 & ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 _h at ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury two amices embroid]$ ) pure gold4 ,?is spl5did web 0 (t5 wr\ght s ?ick & /rong t ea* /r+1 :e!r x happ5$ to be ( hemp or ( silk _h 9 ! w>p six ?reads1 :ile ! weft 0 ( flat gold %r$s4 ,h5ce su* a texture 0 call$ 8samit10 a ^w %ort5$ f its fir/ & old ,byzant9e "n 8exsamit40 ,! quantity ( ?is co/ly clo? kept 9 ! w>drobe ( ,edw>d ! fir/ 0 s great1 t ! nobles ( t k+ 7 all[$ to buy x out ( ! royal /ores2 = in/ance1 f\r pieces at ?irty %ill+s ea* 7 sold to ,rob]t de ,clif=d1 & ano!r piece at ! same price to ,?omas de ,cammill4 ,n only ,asia m9or b ! isl& ( ,cyprus1 ! city ( ,lucca1 & ,moori% ,spa91 s5t u ^! ri* tissues4 ,) o!r ?+s left at ,hav]=d ca/le by ,ri*>d ! second 7 tw5ty-five clo?s ( gold ( div]s suits1 ( :i* f\r came f ,cyprus1 ! o!rs f ,lucca3 8xxv4 draps d'or de div]ses suytes d\nt iiii4 de ,cipres les autres de ,lukes40 ,h[ ,edw>d ! f\r? lik$ clo? ( gold = 8 p]sonal we> may be ga!r$ f 8 w>drobe acc\nts1 edit$ by ,nicolas2 & ! lavi% use ( ?is /uff ord]$ by ,ri*>d ! ?ird = 8 coronation is record$ 9 ! ,antiqu>ian ,rep]tory4 ,a 8g[ne ( clo?-(-gold1 furr$ ) pawmpilyon1 ay5/ ,corpus ,xpi day0 0 b\ght = ,elizabe? ( ,york1 aft]w>ds que5 ( ,h5ry ! sev5?1 = h] to we> z %e walk$ 9 ! procession on t great fe/ival4 ,! affection %[n by ,h5ry ! eigh? & all our nobility1 m5 & wom51 ( ! "t1 = clo? ( gold 9 _! g>m5ts 0 unmi/ak+ly set =? 9 _m ( ! pa9t+s br\ght toge!r 9 ! v in/ructive exhibition ( national portraits 9 #ahff1 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton museum4 ,! price ( ?is /uff seems to h be5 co/ly2 = pr9cess 7aft]w>ds que57 ,m>y1 ?irte5 ye>s be=e %e came to ! ?rone1 8pay$ to ,peycocke1 ( ,london1 = xix y]ds iii4 qt ( clo! ( golde at xxxviij4 ! y]de1 xxxvijli4 xs4 vjd40 ,& = 8a y]de & dr qt ( clo! ( silu] xls40 ,z betwe5 common silk & sat9 !re runs a broad diff]5ce 9 appe>ance1 "o be+ dull1 ! o!r smoo? & glossy1 s !re is a great di/9ction to be made among clo?s ( gold2 "s are1 s to say1 dead2 o!rs1 brilliant & sp>kl+4 ,:5 ! gold is twi/$ into its silk5 filam5t x takes ! dead5$ look2 :5 ! flatt5$1 filmy /rip ( metal is roll$ ab\t x s ev5ly z to br+ its edges close to "o ano!r1 x seems to be "o unbrok5 wire ( gold1 sp>kl+ & lu/r\s4 ,?is k9d dur+ ! middle ages w5t by ! t]m ( ,cyprus gold2 & ri* samits wov5 ) x 7 alli$ damasks ( ,cyprus4 ,z "t w5t on clo?s ( gold _h o!r names4 ,:at ! ?irte5? c5tury call$1 fir/1 8ciclat\n10 !n 8baudek910 aft]w>d 8nak10 0 call$1 two hundr$ ye>s lat]1 8tissue03 a bright %imm]+ gold5 textile4 ,! v ?9 smoo? pap] :i* /ill goes by ! "n ( tissue-pap] 0 orig9ally made to be put betwe5 ! folds ( ?is ri* /uff to prev5t fray+ or t>ni%1 :5 laid by4 ,! gorge\s & entire set ( ve/m5ts pres5t$ to ! alt> at ,/4 ,alban's abbey1 by ,m>g>et1 du*ess ( ,cl>5ce1 ,a4 ,d4 #adbi1 & made ( ! clo? ( gold commonly call$ 8tyssewys10 mu/ h be5 z rem>kable = ! abundance & purity ( ! gold 9 its texture1 z = ! spl5d\r ( ! preci\s /ones set on x & ! exquisite beauty ( its embroid]ies4 ,! l>ge numb] ( ve/m5ts made out ( gold tissue1 & ( crimson1 light blue1 purple1 gre51 & black1 once belong+ to ,york ca!dral1 are all duly regi/]$ 9 ! valuable 8,fabric rolls0 ( t *ur* lately publi%$ by ! ,surtees society4 ,among ! _m ri* & co/ly ve/m5ts 9 ,l9coln ca!dral1 "s 7 made ( ?is sp>kl+ gold5 tissue contra-di/+ui%$ 9 its inv5tory f ! dull] clo? ( gold1 ?us3 8,f\r good copes ( blew ti%ew ) orphreys ( r$ clo? ( gold1 wr\ght ) bran*es & leaves ( velvet20 8a *esable ) two tunacles ( blew ti%ew hav+ a preci\s orphrey ( clo? ( gold40 ,silk5 textures ornam5t$ ) designs 9 copp] gilt ?read 7 manufactur$ & hone/ly sold = :at !y really 73 ( su* inf]ior quality we f9d m5tion 9 ! inv5tory ( ve/m5ts at ,w9*e/] ca!dral1 drawn up by ord] ( ,h5ry ! eigh?1 :]e we read ( 8tw5ty-eight copys ( :ite bawdkyne1 wov5 ) copp] gold40 ,ano!r imitation ( wo( ( gold 0 possibly fraudul5t4 ,?is1 orig9ally p]haps ,s>ac5ic1 0 practis$ by ! ,spani>ds ( ! s\?1 & 0 n easily discov]$4 ,! v f9e/ sk9s 7 s\ght out = ! purpose1 z ?9 z t n[ r>e k9d ( vellum call$ 8ut]9e0 by collectors ( manuscripts4 ,^! 7 heavily gilt & !n cut into v n>r[ /rips1 to be us$ in/ead ( ! true gold5 ?read4 ,! gild+ ( f9e silk & canvas 9 imitation ( clo? ( gold1 l our gild+ ( wood & o!r sub/ances1 0 also sometimes resort$ to = spl5d\r's sake on tempor>y occasions2 su*1 = in/ance1 z "s /ately procession or a solemn burial s]vice4 ,mr4 ,ra9e tells u he f\nd 9 a grave at ,durham1 among o!r textiles1 8a robe ( ?9ni% silk2 ! gr\nd col\r ( ! :ole is amb]2 & ! ornam5tal p>ts 7 lit]ally cov]$ ) leaf gold1 ( :i* !re rema9$ di/9ct & v num]\s portions40 ,9 ! *ur*y>d ( ,*eam1 ,surrey1 9 #ahfe1 ! skeleton ( a prie/ 0 f\nd :o _h be5 buri$ "s "t dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury2 ar\nd ! wai/ 0 a flat girdle made ( br[n silk t _h be5 gilt4 ,9 ! #8,romaunt ( ! rose' translat$ by ,*auc]1 dame ,gladnesse is ?us describ$3-- --9 an ov] gilt samite ,clad %e 02 & on a piece ( ,g]man orphrey-web1 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton collection1 no4 #acgc1 & probably made at ,cologne 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 ! gold is laid by ! gild+ process4 ,silv] also1 z well z gold1 0 hamm]$ out into v ?9 %eets :i* 7 cut into n>r[ long %r$s to be wov51 unmix$ ) any?+ else1 into a web = g>m5ts4 ,( ?is we h a /rik+ illu/ration 9 ! ,acts ( ! apo/les1 :]e ,/4 ,luke1 speak+ ( ,h]od ,agrippa1 says t he pres5t$ himself to ! p array$ 9 k+ly app>el1 :o1 to flatt] him1 %\t$ t 8 0 ! voice n ( a man b ( a god2 & =?) he 0 smitt5 by a loa?some disease :i* %ortly kill$ him4 ,?is royal robe1 z ,josephus in=ms u1 0 a tunic made ( silv] & wond]ful 9 its texture4 ,intimately connect$ ) ! raw mat]ials1 & h[ !y 7 wr\ght 9 ! loom1 is ! "q ab\t ! "t :5 wire draw+ 0 f\nd out4 ,at :at p]iod & among :at p ! art ( work+ up pure gold1 or gild$ silv]1 into a long1 r\nd1 hair-l ?read--into :at may be correctly call$ 8wire0--began1 is q unkn[n4 ,t ) _! me*anical +5uity ! anci5t ,egyptians be?\ght !mselves ( "s me?od = ! purpose is n unlikely4 ,f ,sir ,g>d9] ,wilk9son we le>n t at ,!bes 7 f\nd objects :i* appe>$ to be made ( gold wire4 ,we may fairly presume t ! "w ^u ! corslets ( k+ ,amasis1 already spok5 ( z done by ! ne$le 9 gold1 requir$ by its m9ut5ess t ! metal %\ld be n flat b 9 ! %ape ( wire4 ,by delicate managem5t p]haps ( ! f+]s1 ! n>r[ flat /rips might h be5 p9*$ or d\bl$ up s t ! two edges %\ld meet1 & !n rubb$ betwe5 two pieces ( h>d mat]ial a gold5 wire ( ! requir$ f95ess w\ld be produc$4 ,9 ,etruscan & ,greek jewell]y wire is (t5 to be f\nd2 b 9 all in/ances x is s well %ap$ & s ev5 t x mu/ h be5 fa%ion$ by "s roll+ process4 ,! filigree "w ( ! middle ages is (t5 v f9e & delicate4 ,probably ! embroid]y :i* we read ( 9 ! descriptions ( ! ve/m5ts belong+ to our old *ur*es 7= in/ance 8,an amice embroid]$ ) pure gold07 0 work$ ) gold wire4 ,to g back to ,anglo-saxon times 9 ?is c\ntry1 su* gold wire w\ld seem to h be5 !n well kn[n & employ$1 s9ce 9 ,pet]bor\gh m9/] !re 7 two gold5 alt>-clo?s3 8ii4 gegylde e(ad sceatas20 & !re 7 at ,ely ca!dral 8two girdles ( gold wire0 9 ! reign ( ,william ,rufus4 ,! fir/ use ( a wire-draw+ ma*9e seems to h be5 ab\t ! ye> #acfj1 at ,nuremb]g2 & x 0 n until two hundr$ ye>s aft]1 9 #aefj1 t ! me?od 0 br\ght to ,engl&4 ,two examples ( a /uff ) pure wire 9 x may be se5 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton collection1 nos4 #heha & #hbbh4 ,! process ( tw9+ long n>r[ /rips ( gold1 or gilt silv]1 r\nd a l9e ( silk or flax & ?us produc+ gold ?read is mu* e>li] ?an has be5 suppos$2 & :5 ,attalus's "n 0 be/[$ ^u a new me?od ( int]weav+ gold ) wool or l951 !nce call$ 8,attalic10 x 0 probably because he sugge/$ to ! weav] ! introduction ( ! long-kn[n gold5 ?read z a wo( into ! textiles f 8 loom4 ,x w\ld seem1 f a passage 9 ,claudian1 t ladies at an e>ly ,*ri/ian p]iod us$ to sp9 _! own gold ?read4 ,writ+ at ! end ( ! f\r? c5tury1 ! poet ?us complim5ts ,proba3 ,! joyful "m plies h] le>n$ h&s1 ,& works all o'er ! trabea gold5 b&s1 ,draws ! ?9 /rips to all _! l5g? ( gold1 ,to make ! metal mean] ?reads enfold4 ,! sup]ior quality ( "s gold ?read 0 kn[n to ! m$ival _w "u ! "n ( ! place :]e x _h be5 made4 ,?us we f9d m5tion at "o "t ( ,cyprus gold ?read2 8a ve/m5t embroid]$ ) eagles ( gold ( ,cyprus30 lat]1 ( ,v5ice gold ?read1 8= fr5ge ( gold ( ,v5ys at vjs4 ! ounce20 & aga91 8"o cope ( unwat]$ camlet laid ) /rokes ( ,v5is gold40 ,:at may h be5 _! diff]5ce _c n[ be po9t$ out3 p]haps ! ,cyprian ?read 0 e/eem$ because its some:at broad %r$ ( flat gold 0 w\nd ab\t ! hemp5 twi/ b5ea? x s nicely z to h ! smoo? unbrok5 look ( gold wire2 :ile ! manufacture ( ,v5ice %[$ ev]y:]e ! twi/+ ( common ?read4 ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,9 e>li] times1 z at pres5t1 silks _h v>i\s names1 di/+ui%+ ei!r _! k9d ( texture1 _! col\r1 ! design wov5 on !m1 ! c\ntry f :i* !y 7 br\ght1 or ! use = :i*1 on p>ticul> occasions1 !y happ5$ to be especially set ap>t4 ,all ^! designations are ( =eign gr[?2 "s sprang up 9 ! sev5? & foll[+ c5turies at ,byzantium2 "s are half ,greek1 half ,lat91 jumbl$ toge!r2 o!rs1 borr[$ f ! ea/1 are s %ort5$1 s badly & v>i\sly spelt1 t _! ,arabic or ,p]sian d]ivation c be h>dly recogniz$ at pres5t4 ,yet )\t "s slight k ( !m we h>dly und]/& a great deal belong+ to trade1 & ! mann]s ( ! times glanc$ at by old writ]s2 mu* less c we see ! true mean+ ( _m passages 9 our m$ival ,engli% poetry4 ,among ! t]ms significative ( ! k9d ( web1 or mode ( gett+ up "s sorts ( silk1 we h ,holos]icum1 ! texture ( :i* is w>p & wo( :olly pure silk4 ,f a passage 9 ,lampridius we le>n t s e>ly z ! reign ( ,alex&] ,sev]us ! diff]5ce betwe5 8ve/es holos]ic0 & 8subs]ic0 0 /rongly m>k$1 & t subs]icum impli$ t ! texture 0 n entirely b 9 "p1 probably ! wo(1 ( silk4 ,examitum1 xamitum1 or1 z x is call$ 9 old ,engli% docum5ts1 samit1 is made up ( two ,greek words1 1 8six10 & 1 8?reads20 ! numb] ( ! /r+s 9 ! w>p ( ! texture4 ,x is evid5t t /uffs wov5 s ?ick mu/ h be5 ( ! be/ quality4 ,h5ce1 to say ( any silk5 tissue t x 0 8examitum0 or 8samit0 meant t x 0 six-?read$1 & !re=e co/ly & spl5did4 ,at ! end ( ! ?irte5? & beg9n+ ( ! f\rte5? c5turies 8examitum0 0 mu* us$ = ve/m5ts 9 ,eve%am abbey1 z we ga!r f ! *ronicle ( t h\se1 publi%$ lately = ! ,ma/] ( ! ,rolls4 ,ab\t ! same p]iod among ! be/ copes1 *asubles1 & ve/m5ts 9 ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 _m 7 made ( samit4 ,s1 aga9 among ! n9e gorge\s *asubles bequea!d to ,durham ca!dral by its bi%op 9 #aaie1 ! *ief 0 ( r$ samit sup]bly embroid]$4 ,&1 to "n no m1 we f9d 9 ! valuable inv5tory1 lately publi%$1 ( ! ri* ve/m5ts belong+ to ,exet] ca!dral 9 #abgg t ! be/ ( its num]\s *asubles1 dalmatics1 & copes1 7 made ( samit4 ,9 a lat] docum5t1 ,a4 ,d4 #acbg1 ?is preci\s silk is t]m$ 8samicta40 ,! poets did n =get to array _! knights & ladies 9 ?is gay attire4 ,:5 ,sir ,lancelot ( ! lake br\ght back ,gawa9 to k+ ,ar?ur3 ,launcelot & ! que5 7 cl$de ,9 robes ( a ri* w$e1 ,( samyte :ite1 ) silv] %r$de3 99 99 99 99 99 ,! o!r knights ev]i*one1 ,9 samyte gre5 ( hea!n l&1 ,& _! kirtles1 ride alone4 ,9 8 #8,romaunt ( ! rose1' ,*auc] describes ! dress ( ,mir? ?us3 ,full yong he 01 & m]ry ( ?\ght ,& 9 samette1 ) birdes wr\ght1 ,& ) gold beat5 full fet\sly1 ,8 bodie 0 clad full ri*ely4 ,_m ( ! beautifully figur$ damasks 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton collection are :at anci5tly 7 kn[n z 8samits20 & if !y really be n six-?read1 accord+ to ! etymology ( _! "n1 x is because at a v e>ly p]iod ! /uffs s call$ ceas$ to be wov5 ( su* a ?ickness4 ,! /rong silks ( ! pres5t day ) ! ?ick ?read call$ 8organz9e0 = ! wo(1 & a slightly ?9n] ?read kn[n by ! te*nical "n ( 8tram0 = ! w>p1 may be tak5 to repres5t ! old 8examits40 ,no less rem>kable = ! lightness ( its texture ?an 0 ! samit on acc\nt ( ! ?ick sub/ance ( its web1 & q z mu* s\ght aft]1 0 ano!r k9d ( ?9 glossy silk5 /uff 8wr\ght 9 ! ori5t10 & "h call$ fir/ by ! ,p]sian "n :i* came ) x1 ciclat\n1 t is1 bright & %9+2 b aft]w>ds sicklat\n1 siglaton1 cyclas4 ,sometimes a wo( ( gold5 ?read l5t x /ill m glitt]2 & x 0 us$ bo? = ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts & = secul> articles ( /ately dress4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( ,/4 ,paul's ca!dral1 #abie1 !re 0 a cope made ( clo? ( gold1 call$ ciclat\n3 8capa de panno aureo qui vocatur ciclat\n40 ,among ! booty c>ri$ (f by ! ,engli% :5 !y sack$ ! camp ( ,salad91 ,k+ ,ri*>d took ! pavill\ns ,( s5dal1 & ( cyclat\n4 ,9 8 #8,rime ( ,sire ,?opas1' ,*auc] says ,( ,brugges 7 8 hos5 br\n ,8 robe 0 ( ciclat\n4 ,?\gh s light & ?91 ?is cloak ( 8ciclat\n0 0 (t5 embroid]$ 9 silk & _h gold5 ornam5ts sewn on x2 we read 9 ! #8,metrical romances' ( a maid5 :o sat ,9 a robe ryght ryall b[ne ,( a r$ syclat[ne ,be hur fad] syde2 ,a coronell on hur h$d set1 ,hur clo?ys ) be/es & byrdes w] bete ,all ab[te = pryde4 ,knights 9 ! field wore ov] _! arm\r a long sleeveless g[n slit up almo/ to ! wai/ on bo? sides2 sometimes ( 8samit10 (t5 ( 8c5dal10 (t5] /ill ( 8ciclat\rn30 & ! "n ( ! g[n itself1 %ort5$ f ! mat]ial1 became kn[n z 8cyclas40 ,mat!w ( ,we/m9/] records t :5 ,edw>d ! fir/ knight$ 8 son 9 ,we/m9/] abbey he s5t to ?ree hundr$ sons ( ! nobility1 :om ! pr9ce 0 aft]w>d to dub knights 9 ! same *ur*1 a mo/ spl5did gift ( attire1 fitt+ = ! c]emony2 among :i* 7 clycases wov5 ) gold4 ,t ^! g>m5ts 7 v light & ?9 we ga!r f ! quiet wit ( ,john ( ,salisbury1 :o je]s a man affect+ to p]spire 9 ! dep? ( w9t]1 ?\gh clad 9 no?+ b 8 f9e cyclas4 ,n s co/ly 0 a silk5 /uff kn[n z c5dal1 c5dallus1 s&al1 s&al91 c5datus1 syndon1 syndonus1 z ! way ( writ+ ! ^w alt]$ z "t w5t on4 ,:5 ,sir ,guy ( ,w>wick 0 knight$1 ,& ) him tw5ty good gomes ,knightes' & b>ons' sons1 ,( clo? ( ,t>s & ri* c5dale ,0 ! dobb+ 9 ea* deal4 ,! ,roll ( ,ca]lav]ock tells u t among ! gr& array :i* jo9$ ,edw>d ! fir/ at ,c>lisle 9 #acjj1 !re 0 to be se5 _m a ri* cap>ison embroid]$ ^u c5dal & samit3 ,la ot me9t ri*e gu>nem5t ,brod sur s5daus e samis3 & ,lacy1 e>l ( ,l9coln1 lead+ ! fir/ squadron1 hoi/$ 8 bann] made ( yell[ c5dal blazon$ ) a lion rampant purpre ,ban] out de un c5dal safr91 ,o un li\n rampant purpr94 ,:5 ,sir ,bevis ( ,s\?ampton wi%$ to keep himself unkn[n at a t\rnam5t1 we ?us read ( him3 ,sir ,bevis disguis$ all 8 we$ ,( black c5dal & ( r$e1 ,fl\ri%$ ) roses ( silv] bright1 etc4 ,( ! t5 silk5 albs :i* ,hugh ,pudsey left to ,durham1 two 7 made ( samit & two ( c5dal1 or z ! bi%op calls x1 s&al4 ,exet] ca!dral _h a r$ cope ) a gre5 l9+ ( s&al & a cape ( s&al9e3 8,una capa de s&al940 ,pi]s ,pl\ghman speaks ?us to ! wom5 ( 8 day3 ,& ye lovely ladies ,) y\re long fyngres1 ,t ye h silk & s&al ,to s[e1 :an tyme is4 ,*esibles = *apeleyns1 ,*ir*es to hon\re1 etc4 ,a /rong] k9d ( c5dal 0 wr\ght & call$1 9 ! ,lat9 inv5tories ( ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies1 8c5datus af=ciatus30 !re 0 a cope ( ?is mat]ial at ,/4 ,paul's1 & ano!r cope ( clo? ( gold 0 l9$ ) x4 ,syndonus or ,s9donis1 z x w\ld seem1 0 a bett]mo/ sort ( c5dal4 ,/4 ,paul's _h a *asuble z well z a cope ( ?is fabric4 ,taffeta1 if n a ?9n]1 0 a less co/ly silk5 /uff ?an c5dal2 :i* ^w1 to ?is day1 is us$ 9 ! ,spani% language1 & is def9$ to be a ?9 transp>5t textile ( silk or l953 8,tela de s$a l9o muy delgada y trasp>5te40 ,taffeta & c5dal 7 us$ = l9+s 9 m$ival ,engl&4 ,*auc] says ( 8 8doct\r ( phisike10 ,9 sangu9 & 9 p]se he clad 0 alle ,l9$ ) taffeta & ) s5dalle4 ,s>c5et dur+ ! fifte5? c5tury took by degrees ! place ( c5dal1 at lea/ "h 9 ,engl&4 ,by "s improvem5t 9 _! weav+ ( c5dal1 ! ,s>ac5s 9 ! s\? ( ,spa9 e>n$ = ?is light web a good "n 9 our m>kets1 & x became mu* s\ght = "h4 ,among o!r places1 ,york ca!dral _h sev]al sets ( curta9s = its high alt>1 8de s>cynet40 ,at fir/ ?is /uff 0 call$ f its mak]s 8s>ac5icum40 ,b1 9 ,anglicis+1 ! "n 0 %ort5$ into 8s>c5et20 a ^w :i* we use n[ = ! ?9 silk :i* ( old 0 kn[n among u z 8c5dal40 ,sat91 ?\gh f> f be+ s common z o!r silk5 textures1 0 n unkn[n to ,engl& 9 ! middle ages2 & ,*auc] speaks ( x 9 8 #8,man ( lawes tale3' ,9 ,surrie :ilom dwelt a compagnie ,( *apm5 ri*1 & !rto sad & trewe1 ,t wide 7 s5t5 hir spic]ie1 ,clo!s ( gold1 & sat9s ri* ( hewe4 ,:5 sat9 fir/ appe>$ 9 trade x 0 call$ r\nd ! %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean 8aceytuni40 ,! t]m slipp$ ?r\gh e>ly ,italian lips into 8zetani20 com+ we/w>d ?is "n1 9 its turn1 dropp$ its 8i10 & smoo!d itself into 8sat940 ,s1 also1 x is call$ 9 ,france2 :ile 9 ,italy x n[ goes by ! "n ( 8raso10 & ! ,spani>ds keep up its fir/ designation4 ,9 ! e>li] inv5tories ( *ur* ve/m5ts no m5tion c be f\nd ( sat92 b ?is f9e silk is spok5 ( among ! v>i\s ri* beque/s made to 8 ca!dral at ,exet] by bi%op ,gr&ison1 ab\t #acdj2 ?\gh lat]1 & especially 9 ! royal w>drobe accompts1 x is v commonly specifi$4 ,h5ce we may fairly assume t till ! f\rte5? c5tury sat9 0 unkn[n 9 ,engl&2 aft]w>ds x met ) mu* fav\r4 ,flags 7 made ( x4 ,on bo>d ! /ately %ip 9 :i* ,beau*amp e>l ( ,w>wick1 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ! six?1 sail$ f ,engl& to ,france1 !re 7 fly+ 8?ree p5ons ( satt510 besides 8sixte5 /&>ds ( wor/$ entail$ ) a be> & a *a910 & a great /ream] ( =ty y>ds 9 l5g? & eight y>ds 9 bread?1 ) a great be> & griff9 hold+ a ragg$ /aff p\dr$ full ( ragg$ /affs4 ,l o!r silk5 textiles1 sat9 seems to h be5 9 "s in/ances int]wov5 ) flat gold ?read3 = example1 ,l9coln _h ( ! gift ( "o ( its bi%ops eighte5 copes ( r$ t9sel satt9 ) orphreys ( gold4 ,?\gh n (t51 yet sometimes we read ( a silk5 /uff call$ cadas1 c>da1 c>duus1 & us$ = inf]ior purposes4 ,! outside silk on ! cocoon is ( a poor quality comp>$ ) ! inn] filam5ts1 f :i* x is kept ap>t 9 reel+1 & set aside = o!r uses4 ,we f9d m5tion ( su* clo?s z belong+ to ! ca!drals ( ,exet] & ,/4 ,paul's 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,m frequ5tly1 in/ead ( be+ spun1 x s]v$ z wadd+ 9 dress3 on ! b>ons at ! siege ( ,ca]lav]ock might be se5 _m a ri* gambeson g>ni%$ ) silk1 cadas1 & cotton3 ,me9t ri*e gamboison gu>ni ,de soi1 de cadas e coton4 ,! quantity ( c>d pur*as$ = ! royal w>drobe1 9 ! ye> #abii1 is set =? 9 ! ,lib] quotidianus4 ,camoca1 camoka1 camak1 z ! "n is diff]5tly writt51 0 a textile ( :i* 9 ,engl& we he> no?+ be=e ! latt] end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,no soon] did x make its appe>ance ?an ?is camoca rose into great repute2 ! ,*ur* us$ x = h] ve/m5ts1 & royalty employ$ x = dress z well z 9 adorn+ palaces1 especially 9 drap+ b$s ( /ate4 ,9 ! ye> #ache1 besides "s small] articles1 ! royal *apel 9 ,w9dsor ca/le _h a :ole set ( ve/m5ts & o!r ornam5ts = ! alt>1 ( :ite camoca2 & our pr9ces mu/ h array$ !mselves1 on gr& occasions1 9 ! same mat]ial2 = ,h]od1 9 "o ( ! ,cov5try my/]ies--! adoration ( ! ,magi--is made to boa/ ( himself3 8,9 kyrtyl ( cammaka kynge am ,i cladde40 ,b x 0 9 drap+ its /ate-b$s t our anci5t royalty %[$ its affection = camoca4 ,edw>d ! ,black ,pr9ce bequea?s to 8 confessor 8a l>ge b$ ( r$ camoca ) our arms embroid]$ at ea* corn]10 & ! pr9ce's "m leaves to ano!r ( h] sons 8a b$ ( r$ camak40 ,edw>d "l ,desp5c]1 9 #acge1 wills to 8 wife 8my great b$ ( blue camaka1 ) griff9s1 also ano!r b$ ( camaka1 /rip$ ) :ite & black40 ,:at may h be5 ! real texture ( ?is /uff1 ?\ght s magnific5t1 we d n positively "k1 b x 0 probably wov5 ( f9e camels' hair & silk1 & ( ,asiatic workman%ip4 ,f ?is mix$ web we pass to ano!r m preci\s1 ! ,clo? ( ,t>s2 :i* we presume to h be5 ! =]unn] ( ! n[ celebrat$ ca%m]e1 & toge!r ) silk made ( ! d[ny wool ( goats re>$ 9 sev]al p>ts ( ,asia1 b especially 9 ,tibet4 ,velvet is a silk5 textile1 ! hi/ory ( :i* has /ill to be writt54 ,( ! c\ntry :5ce x fir/ came1 or ! p :o 7 ! e>lie/ to hit ^u ! happy way ( weav+ x1 we "k no?+4 ,a v old piece 0 9 ! beautiful crimson cope embroid]$ by ,engli% h&s 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 n[ kept at ! college ( ,m\nt ,/4 ,m>y1 ,*e/]field4 ,we are probably indebt$ to c5tral ,asia1 or p]haps ,*9a1 = velvet z well z sat92 & among ! e>lie/ places 9 ,europe :]e x 0 manufactur$1 7 p]haps fir/ ! s\? ( ,spa91 & !n ,lucca4 ,9 ! e>lie/ ( ! inv5tories :i* we h ( *ur* ve/m5ts1 t ( ,exet] ca!dral1 #abgg1 velvet is n spok5 (2 b 9 ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 ,a4 ,d4 #abie1 !re is "s notice ( velvet ) its k9dr$ web 8fu/ian10 = *asubles4 ,velvet is = ! fir/ "t m5tion$ at ,exet] 9 #acbg1 b z 9 two pieces n made up1 ( :i* "s y>ds _h be5 !n sold = ve/m5t-mak+4 ,f ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury velvet is ( common occurr5ce4 ,! "n itself ( velvet1 8velluto10 seems to po9t out ,italy z ! m>ket ?r\gh :i* we got x f ! ea/1 = ! ^w 9 ,italian indicates some?+ :i* is hairy or %aggy1 l an animal's sk94 ,fu/ian 0 kn[n at ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,/4 ,paul's ca!dral at t date _h 8a :ite *asuble ( fu/ian40 ,9 an ,engli% s]mon prea*$ at ! beg9n+ ( ! same c5tury great blame is f\nd ) ! prie/ :o _h 8 *asuble made ( middl+ fu/ian3 8e me%akele ( m$eme fu/ian40 ,z !n wove1 fu/ian _h a %ort nap on x1 & "o ( ! dome/ic uses to :i* dur+ ! middle ages x _h be5 put 0 = b$ clo!s1 z ?ick und]%eets4 ,lady ,b>gav5ny bequea?s1 9 #adcd1 8,a b$ ( gold ( swans1 two pair %eets ( raynes 7f9e l951 made at ,rheims71 a pair ( fu/ians1 six pair ( o!r %eets1 etc40 ,x is n unlikely t ?is /uff may h h9t$ to ! ,italians ! way ( weav+ silk 9 ! same mann]1 & s ( produc+ velvet4 ,o!r nations took up ! manufacture1 & ! weav+ ( velvet 0 wond]fully improv$4 ,x became diap]$ &1 ^u a gr\nd ( silk or ( gold1 ! patt]n came out 9 a bold mann]1 ) a rais$ pile4 ,at la/1 ! mo/ beautiful ( all mann]s ( diap]+1 namely1 mak+ ! patt]n to %[ itself 9 a d\ble pile1 "o pile high] ?an ! o!r & ( ! same t9t1 n[1 z =m]ly1 kn[n z velvet ^u velvet1 0 br\ght to its highe/ p]fection2 & velvets 9 ?is f9e /yle 7 wr\ght 9 greate/ excell5ce 9 ,italy1 9 ,spa9 & 9 ,fl&]s4 ,our old inv5tories (t5 specify ^! diff]5ces 9 ! mak+ ( ! web4 ,york ca!dral _h 8f\r copes ( crimson velvet pla9e1 ) orphreys ( clo! ( g\lde1 = /&]s20 8a gre5e cu%ion ( rais$ velvet20 & 8a cope ( pur%$ velvet 7r$d730 8pur%$0 means t ! velvet 0 rais$ 9 a network patt]n4 ,diap] 0 a silk5 fabric1 held ev]y:]e 9 high e/imation dur+ _m hundr$ ye>s1 bo? abroad & 9 ,engl&4 ,we "k ?is f docum5ts beg9n+ ) ! elev5? c5tury3 b ! orig9 ( ! "n is unc]ta94 ,possibly1 9 ord] to indicate a "o-col\r$ yet patt]n$ silk1 :i* diap] is1 ! ,byzant9e ,greeks ( ! e>ly middle ages inv5t$ ! t]m 1 diaspron1 f 1 ,i sep>ate1 to signify 8:at di/+ui%es or sep>ates itself f ?+s ab\t x10 z e patt]n does on a "o-col\r$ silk4 ,) ?is textile ! ,lat9s took ! "n = x f ! ,greeks & call$ x 8diasp]10 :i* 9 ,engli% has be5 m\ld$ into 8diap]40 ,9 ! ye> #ajff ! empress ,agnes gave to ,monte ,cass9o a diap]-*asuble ( clo? ( gold1 8planetam diasp]am40 ,?is e>ly m5tion ( ! "n seems to be a conclusive argum5t aga9/ ^? writ]s :o d]ive x f ,yprs1 9 ,fl&]s2 a t[n celebrat$ = l95 manufactures at a some:at lat] p]iod3 yet ev5 !n1 accord+ to ,*auc]1 rivall$ by workwom5 9 ,engl&4 ,he tells u ( ! 8good wif ( ,ba!0 t ,( clo?-mak+ %e hadde swi*e an haunt ,%e pass$ hem ( ,ipres & ( ,gaunt4 ,9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton collection1 no4 #abgj %[s h[ ^! clo?s 7 wr\ght2 & x w\ld seem t clo? ( gold 0 (t5 diap]$ ) a patt]n1 at lea/ 9 ! "t ( ,*auc]1 :o describes x on ! h\s+ ( a k+'s horse3 ----trapp$ 9 /ele1 ,cov]$ ) clo? ( gold diapr$ wele4 ,*ur* inv5tories make frequ5t m5tion ( su* diap]$ silks = ve/m5ts4 ,exet] ca!dral _h a cope ( :ite diap] ) half moons1 ! gift ( bi%op ,b>?olomew1 9 #aafa4 ,sometimes ! patt]n ( ! diap]+ is notic$2 = in/ance1 at ,/4 ,paul's1 8a *asuble ( :ite diap]1 ) c\pl$ p>rots 9 places1 among bran*es40 ,probably ! mo/ elaborate specim5 ( diap]-weav+ on record is t :i* ,edmund1 e>l ( ,cornwall1 gave to ! same ca!dral2 8a cope ( a c]ta9 diap] ( ,antio* col\r cov]$ ) trees & diap]$ birds1 ( :i* ! heads1 brea/s & feet1 z well z ! fl[]s on ! tress1 7 wov5 9 gold ?read40 ,by degrees ! ^w 8diap]0 became wid5$ 9 its mean+4 ,n only all sorts ( textile1 :e!r ( silk1 ( l951 or ( wor/$1 b ! walls ( a room 7 said to be diap]$ :5 ! self-same ornam5t 0 repeat$ & spr9kl$ well ov] x4 ,?us1 9 #8! squire ( l[ degree1' ! k+ ( ,hung>y promises 8 daught] a *air or c>riage1 t ,%al be cov]d wy? velvette re$e ,& clo!s ( fyne golde al ab\t y\r he$e1 ,) damaske :yte & azure blewe ,well dyap]d ) lylles newe4 ,! b[ = arr[s held by ,sweet-look+ is1 9 ,*auc]'s #8,romaunt ( ! rose1' describ$ z pa9t$ well1 & ?witt5 ,& ov] all diapr$ & writt51 etc4 ,s n[1 we call our f9e table l95 8diap]0 because x is figur$ ) fl[]s & fruits4 ,sometimes silks diap]$ 7 call$ 8fygury30 z ! cope m5tion$ 9 ! ,york fabric rolls1 8una capa de sateyn fygury40 ,illu/ration3 ,ladies sp9n+ & weav+2 f a manuscript ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,,*apt] ,v4 ,!re are "s v anci5t names1 di/+ui%+ diff]5t textiles1 :i* require notice3 su* z 8*rysoclavus10 8/auracc910 8poly/aurium10 8gammadion0 or 8gammadi10 8de quadruplo10 8de octoplo10 & 8de fundato40 ,textiles ( silk & gold are1 ov] & ov] aga91 enum]at$ z !n commonly kn[n "u su* names1 9 ! #8,lib] pontificalis seu de ge/is ,romanorum pontificum3' a book ( great value = e /ud5t ( e>ly ,*ri/ian art-"w1 & 9 p>ticul> ( textiles & embroid]y4 ,! ,*rysoclavus1 or gold5 nail-head1 0 a remnant :i* l+]$ a long "t among ! ornam5ts embroid]$ on ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts & robes = royal we> ( t once s covet$ 8latus clavus10 or broad nail-head-l purple r\nd pat* worn ^u ! outw>d g>m5t ( ! old ,roman dignit>ies4 ,9 ! c\rt ( ,byzantium ?is m>k ( dignity 0 elevat$1 f be+ purple on :ite1 into gold ^u purple4 ,h5ce x came t all ri* purple silks1 wov5 or embroid]$ ) ! 8clavus0 9 gold1 7 kn[n f _! patt]n z gold nail-head$1 or *rysoclavus2 & silk5 textiles ( ,tyrian dye1 spr9kl$ all ov] ) l>ge r\nd spots1 7 once 9 great dem&4 ,pope ,leo 9 #gie1 among 8 sev]al o!r gifts to ! *ur*es at ,rome1 be/[$ a great numb] ( alt> frontals made ( ?is purple & gold fabric1 z we are told by ,ana/asius 9 ! ,lib] pontificalis4 ,sometimes ^! 8clavi0 7 made s l>ge t ^u _! gold5 gr\nd an ev5t 9 ! life ( a sa9t or ! sa9t's head 0 embroid]$1 & !n ! :ole piece 0 call$ 8sigillata10 or seal$4 ,/aurac9 or 8/aurac9us10 tak+ its "n f ! ,greek = 8cross10 0 a silk5 /uff figur$ ) small pla9 crosses1 & !re=e f _! numb] sometimes f>!r di/+ui%$ by ! ^w signify+ t mean+ 9 ,greek1 ,poly/auron4 ,! crosses wov5 on ! v>i\s fabrics 7 sometimes ( ! simple/ %ape2 (t5] !y 7 design$ aft] an elaborate type ) a symbolic mean+ ab\t x t af=d$ an especial "n to ! /uffs ^u :i* !y 7 figur$4 ,?is "n ,gammadion1 or ,gammadi1 0 a ^w appli$ z (t5 to ! patt]n ^u silks z to ! figures wr\ght ^u gold & silv]4 ,9 ! ,greek alphabet ! capital lett] gamma takes ! %ape ( an exact "r angle ?us1 4 ,be+ s1 _m writ]s h se5 9 x an emblem ( our ,"l z our corn]-/one4 ,foll[+ ?is idea arti/s at a v e>ly p]iod /ruck out a way ( =m+ ! cross aft] sev]al %apes by v>i\s comb9ations ) x ( ?is lett] 4 ,f\r ( ^! gammas put s2 ,illu/ration fall into ! %ape ( ! s-call$ ,greek cross2 & 9 ?is =m x 0 wov5 ^u ! textiles d5om9at$ /aurac92 or patt]n$ ) a cross4 ,be+ "o ( ! f\r same-%ap$ elem5ts ( ! cross's figure1 ! "p 0 significant ( ! :ole3 & z an emblem ( ! corn]-/one1 our ,"l1 ! gamma or 1 0 frequ5tly %[n at "o edge ( ! tunic worn by ! apo/les 9 anci5t mosaics2 :]e9 sometimes we f9d1 9 place ( ! s+le gamma1 ! figure ,h2 ano!r comb9ation ( ! f\r gammas 9 ! cross4 ,:atsoev]1 !re=e1 :e!r ( metal or ( silk1 0 f\nd to be m>k$ 9 ?is or any o!r way ( putt+ ! gammas toge!r1 or ) only a s+le "o1 0 call$ 8gammadion10 or 8gammadi40 ,anci5t +5uity = ?r[+ its fav\rite gamma into o!r comb9ations1 & ?us br++ out pretty & graceful patt]ns to be wr\ght on all sorts ( "w = ecclesia/ical use1 did n /op "h4 ,9 ! ,lib] pontificalis ( ,ana/asius we meet n unfrequ5tly ) acc\nts ( ve/m5ts1 etc4 8de /aurac9 seu quadrapolis02 or 8de quadrapolo02 or 8de octapolo40 ,! au?or "h evid5tly means to imply a di/9ction betwe5 a some?+ am\nt+ to f\r1 & to eight1 9 or ^u ^! textiles4 ,x _c be to say t "o fabric 0 wov5 ) f\r1 ! o!r ) eight ?reads2 _h t be5 s meant1 ! fact w\ld probably !n h be5 expla9$ by a ^w con/ruct$ l 8examitus10 p4 #bd4 ,z ! contra/ is n 9 ! texture x mu/ be 9 ! patt]n ( ! /uffs2 t is1 9 ! numb] ( ! crosses3 & we fur!r see :y 8/aurac90 & 8de quadrapolis0 are int]*angeable t]ms4 ,at ! end ( ,du ,cange's gloss>y is an engrav+ ( a "w ( ,greek art2 plate ,,ix4 ,"h ,/4 ,john ,*ryso/om /&s betwe5 ,/4 ,ni*olas & ,/4 ,basil4 ,all ?ree are array$ 9 _! liturgical g>m5ts1 :i* be+ figur$ ) crosses are ( ! textile call$ ( old 8/aurac920 b !re is a m>k$ diff]5ce 9 ! way 9 :i* ! crosses are ins]t$4 ,! crosses are arrang$ ^u ! ve/m5t ( ,/4 ,john ?us2 ,illu/ration ,/4 ,ni*olas & ,/4 ,basil h *asubles :i* are n only work$ all ov] ) crosses made ) gammas1 b are surr\nd$ ) o!r gammas jo9$ s z to edge 9 ! crosses1 ?us2 ,illu/ration ,z f\r gammas only are necess>y to =m all ! crosses ^u ,/4 ,john's ve/m5t1 we !re see ! textile call$ 8/aurac9 de quadruplo10 or ! /uff figur$ ) a cross ( f\r 7gammas72 :ile z eight ( ^! lett]s are requir$ = ! patt]n on ! o!rs1 we h 9 !m an example ( ! 8/aurac9 de octapolo10 or 8octapulo10 a fabric ) a patt]n compos$ ( eight gammas4 ,a f> m anci5t & univ]sal %ape fa%ion$ out ( ! repetition ( ! same lett] 1 is t kn[n z ,gammadion2 or1 z commonly call$ at "o "t 9 ,engl&1 ! ,filfot4 ,sev]al pieces 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton collection exhibit on !m "s modification ( x3 = example1 nos4 #abfa1 #acbe1 #gjeb1 #hbi;,a1 #hcje1 #hfce1 & #hfeb4 ,its figure is made out ( ! usual f\r gammas1 s t !y %\ld fall toge!r ?us2 ,illu/ration ,( silks patt]n$ ) ! pla9 ,greek cross or 8/aurac90 !re are also sev]al examples 9 ! same collection2 & ?\gh n ( ! remote/ p]iod are int]e/+4 ,no4 #hbcd1 p]haps wr\ght 9 ,sicily by ! ,greeks br\ght z prison]s f ! ,morea 9 ! twelf? c5tury1 is n )\t "s value4 ,9 ! *apt] libr>y at ,durham may be se5 7z we le>n f ,mr4 ,ra9e7 an example ( ,byzant9e /aurac9 8col\rs purple & crimson2 ! only prom95t ornam5t a cross--(t5 repeat$1 ev5 ^u ! small portion :i* rema9s40 ,^? :o h se5 9 ,/4 ,pet]'s sacri/y at ,rome t beautiful light-blue dalmatic said to h be5 worn by ,*>lemagne :5 he sang ! gospel1 ve/$ z a deacon1 on ! day he 0 cr[n$ emp]or1 w rememb] h[ pl5tifully x is spr9kl$ ) crosses betwe5 its exquisite embroid]ies1 s z to make ! ve/m5t a real 8/aurac940 ,x has be5 well giv5 by ,sulpiz ,boiss]e 9 8 #8,kais] dalmatika 9 d] ,/4 ,pet]skir*e2' b f> bett] by ,dr4 ,bock 9 8 spl5did "w on ! coronation robes ( ! ,g]man emp]ors4 ,silks call$ de fundato1 f ! patt]n wov5 on !m1 are frequ5tly spok5 ( by ,ana/asius4 ,f ! text ( t writ]1 & f passages 9 o!r au?ors ( 8 "t1 x w\ld seem t ! silks !mselves 7 dy$ ( ! ri*e/ purple & figur$ ) gold 9 ! patt]n ( nett+4 ,z "o ( ! mean+s = ! ^w 8funda0 is a fi%]man's net1 ri* textiles s figur$ 9 gold 7 d5om9at$ 8de fundato0 or nett$4 ,we ga!r also f ,=tunatus t ! co/ly purple-dy$ silks call$ 8blatta0 7 always int]wov5 ) gold4 ,?is net-patt]n l+]$ long &1 no d\bt1 we f9d x "u a new "n 8laqueatus0--me%$--^u a cope belong+ to ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,paul's1 ,london1 #abie3 :]e an inv5tory1 pr9t$ by ,dugdale1 includes a cope ( baudek9 ) fir-cones 89 campis laqueatis40 ,modifications ( ?is v old patt]n may be se5 at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 nos4 #abfd1 #abff1 & #hbcd4 ,9 ! diap]$ patt]n on "s ( ! clo? ( gold f\nd lately 9 ! grave ( an ar*bi%op1 buri$ at ,york ab\t ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ! same nett+ is disc]nible4 ,/ragulat1 /rip$ or b>r$ silks1 7 at "o "t 9 mu* reque/4 ,frequ5t m5tion is made ( !m 9 ! ,exet] inv5tories2 = example1 9 #abgg1 !re 7 two palls ( baudek91 "o 8/ragulata40 ,! illum9ations 9 ! manuscript 9 ! ,h>ley collection at ! ,briti% museum ( ! deposition ( ,ri*>d ! second af=ds u in/ances ( ?is textile4 ,! "y man to ! "r sitt+ on ! gr\nd at ! ar*bi%op's s]mon is entirely1 hood & all1 array$ 9 ?is /rip$ silk2 & at ! alt>1 :]e ,nor?umb]l& is swe>+ on ! eu*>i/1 ! prie/ :o is say+ mass we>s a *asuble ( ! same /uff4 ,old ,/4 ,paul's _h an (f]tory-veil ( ! same patt]n2 8/ragulatum0 ) ! /ripes r$ & gre54 ,at ! end ( ! twelf? c5tury !re 0 br\ght to ,engl&1 f ,greece1 a sort ( preci\s silk nam$ !re ,imp]ial4 ,ralph1 dean ( ,/ ,paul's ca!dral1 tells u t ,william de ,magna ,villa1 on com+ home f 8 pilgrimage to ! holy l& ab\t #aagh1 made pres5ts to sev]al *ur*es ( clo?s :i* at ,con/ant9ople 7 call$ 8,imp]ial40 ,we are told by ,rog] ,w5dov]1 & aft] him by ,mat!w ,p>is1 t ! app>ition ( k+ ,john 0 dress$ 9 royal robes made ( ! /uff !y call imp]ial4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( ,/4 ,paul's1 drawn up 9 #abie1 f\r tunicles 7ve/m5ts = subdeacons & l[] m9i/]s at ! alt>7 are m5tion$ z made ( ?is imp]ial4 ,no col\r is specifi$1 except 9 ! "o in/ance ( ! silk be+ m>bl$2 & ! patt]ns are notic$ z ( r$ & gre51 ) lions wov5 9 gold4 ,x seems n to h be5 ?\ght good en\gh = ! m important ve/m5ts1 su* z *asubles & copes4 ,probably ! "n 0 n d]iv$ f its col\r 7suppos$ royal purple7 nor its co/l9ess1 b = q ano!r reason3 wov5 at a work%op kept up by ! ,byzant9e emp]ors1 l ! ,gobel9s is to-day 9 ,p>is1 & be>+ ab\t x "s small ?\gh noticeable m>k1 x took ! designation ( 8,imp]ial40 ,we "k x 0 p>tly wr\ght ) gold2 b t its t9t 0 always "s %ade ( ! imp]ial purple is a gratuit\s assumption4 ,9 ,france ?is textile 0 9 use z late z ! second half ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 b look$ ^u z old4 ,at ,york some:at lat]1 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! sixte5?1 "o ( its deans be/[$ on t ca!dral 8two 7blue7 copes ( clo! imp]ialle40 ,baudek9 0 a co/ly /uff mu* employ$ & (t5 spok5 ( 9 our lit]ature dur+ _m ye>s ( ! m$ival p]iod4 ,ciclat\n1 z we h already rem>k$1 0 ! usual t]m dur+ c5turies ?r\gh\t we/]n ,europe by :i* ! %[y gold5 textiles 7 call$4 ,:51 h[ev]1 ,bagdad or ,baldak held = no %ort l5g? ( "t ! lead all ov] ,asia 9 weav+ f9e silks1 & 9 especial gold5 /uffs %ot z n[ 9 diff]5t col\rs1 t9t$ clo?s ( gold became kn[n1 & m p>ticul>ly among ! ,engli%1 z 8baldak910 8baudek910 or 8baudkyn10 or silks f ,baldak4 ,at la/ ! e>li] t]m 8ciclat\n0 dropp$ out ( use4 ,rememb]+ ?is ! read] w m readily und]/& sev]al o!rwise puzzl+ passages 9 our old writ]s1 z well z 9 ! inv5tories ( royal furniture & *ur* ve/m5ts4 ,k+s & ! nobility affect$ mu* ?is ri* /uff = ! g>m5ts worn on high occasions4 ,:5 ,h5ry ! ?ird knight$ ,william ( ,val5ce1 9 #abdg1 he _h on a robe ( clo? ( gold made ( baudek92 8facta de pretiosissimo baldek9o40 ,9 ! ye> #abei ! ma/] ( ,%]born hospital 9 ! nor? bequea!d to t h\se a cope made ( ! l /uff3 8de panno ad aurum scilicet baudek940 ,ve/m5ts ( ?is mat]ial are frequ5tly m5tion$ 9 ! old *ur* inv5tories4 ,^! ,bagdad or ,baldak silks1 ) a weft ( gold1 kn[n among u z 8baudek9s0 7 (t5 wov5 v l>ge 9 size1 & appli$ "h 9 ,engl& to especial ritual purposes4 ,z a ?anks-(f]+ aft] a safe return home f a j\rney !y 7 br\ght & giv5 to ! alt>2 at ! solemn burial ( our k+s & que5s & o!r great p1 ! m\rn]s1 :5 (f]tory "t came1 w5t to ! he>se & ?rew a baudek9 ( co/ly texture ov] ! c(f94 ,we may le>n ! c]emonial f ! descriptions ( _m ( our m$ival fun]als4 ,at ! obsequies ( ,h5ry ! sev5? 9 ,we/m9/] abbey3--8,twoe h]auds came to ! duke ( ,buck4 & to ! e>les1 & convey$ !m into ! reve/rie :]e !y did receive c]t5 palles :i* ev]ie ( !m did br+e solemly betw5e !ire h&s & comm+e 9 ord] "o be=e ano!r z !y 7 9 degree unto ! said h]se1 ?ay kiss$ !ire said palles & deliv]$ !m unto ! said h]audes :i* laide !m uppon ! kyngs corps1 9 ?is mann]3 ! palle :i* 0 fir/ (f]$ by ! duke ( ,buck4 0 laid on l5g? on ! said corps1 & ! residewe 7 laid acrosse1 z ?ick z !y might lie40 ,9 ! same *ur* at ! burial ( ,anne ( ,cleves 9 #aeeg1 a l c]emonial ( c>ry+ clo?-(-gold palls to ! he>se 0 foll[$4 ,s also ! religi\s guilds1 or o!r companies1 9 ! middle ages kept palls to be ?r[n ov] ! bodies ( all bro!rs or si/]s at _! burial1 h[ev] l[ly may h be5 _! rank4 ,! ^w 8baudek90 itself became at la/ enl>g$ 9 its mean+4 ,s w>m1 s mell[1 s fa/ 7 ! tones ( crimson :i* ! dy]s ( ,bagdad knew h[ to give _! silks t1 )\t a ?read ( gold 9 !m1 ! m]e gl[+ t9ts ( ! pla9 crimson silk5 webs won = !mselves ! "n ( baudek9s4 ,fur!rmore1 :5 !y q ceas$ to be p>tly wov5 9 gold & f _! consequ5t l[] price & *eapness came into use = clo?s ( e/ate ov] royal ?rones1 ! canopy hung ov] ! high alt> ( a *ur* acquir$ & yet keeps ! appellation 7at lea/ 9 ,italy7 ( 8balda*9o40 ,h[ v full 9 size1 h[ co/ly 9 mat]ials & embroid]y1 mu/ h sometimes be5 ! clo? ( e/ate spread ov]head & beh9d ! ?rone ( our k+s1 may be ga!r$ f ! privy purse exp5ses ( ,h5ry ! sev5?2 :]e9 ?is item occurs3 8,to ,antony ,corsse = a clo? ( an e/ate conteyn+ #dg y]ds1 #aa ! y]d1 #ebb #ajs40 ,canopies ( ?is k9d are /ill occasionally to be se5 9 ! ?rone-room ( "s ( ! ,roman palaces1 ^: own]s h ! old feudal "r to ! clo? ( e/ate4 ,! cu/om itself is ?us notic$ by ,*auc]3 ,yet n]e & n]e =? 9 ,i gan me dress ,into an hall ( noble app>aile1 ,) arras spr$1 & clo? ( gold ,i gesse1 ,& o!r silke ( easi] availe3 ,"u ! clo? ( _! e/ate sauns faile ,! k+ & qu5e !re sat z ,i beheld4 ,?is same ri* gold5 /uff _h a ?ird & ev5 bett] kn[n "n1 to be f\nd all ?r\gh our e>ly lit]ature z ,clo? ( ,pall4 ,! /ate cloak 79 ,lat9 pallium1 9 ,anglo-saxon paell71 worn alike by m5 z well z wom51 0 always made ( ! mo/ gorge\s /uff t c\ld be f\nd4 ,f a v e>ly p]iod 9 ! m$ival ages gold5 webs %ot 9 silk ) "o or o!r ( ! v>i\s col\rs1 occasionally blue b (t5] crimson1 7 s\ght = ?r\gh s _m ye>s1 & ev]y:]e1 t at la/ ea* sort ( clo? ( gold _h giv5 to x ! "n ( 8pall10 no matt] ! imm$iate purpose to :i* x might h to be appli$ or aft] :at fa%ion4 ,ve/m5ts = sacr$ use & g>m5ts = knights & ladies 7 equally made ( x4 ,! ^w is common en\gh 9 ! *ur* inv5tories4 ,z to worldly use1 ! k+'s daught] 9 ! #8,squire ( l[ degree' _h ,mantell ( ry*e degre ,purple palle & armyne fre3 & 9 ! poem ( ,sir ,isumbras-- ,! ri* que5 9 hall 0 set2 ,knights h] s]v$1 at h& & feet ,9 ri* robes ( pall4 ,= c]emonial receptions our k+s us$ to ord] t e h\se %\ld be 8curta9$0 along ! /reets :i* ! procession w\ld h to take ?r\gh ,london1 8incort9>etur40 ,h[ ?is 0 done we le>n f ,*auc] 9 ! #8,knight's tale'2 ,by ord9ance1 ?urgh\t ! cite l>ge ,hang$ ) clo? ( gold1 & n ) s>ge2 z well z f ! #8,life ( ,alex&]3' ,al !o city 0 by-hong ,( ri*e baudekyns & pellis 7palls7 among4 ,h5ce1 :5 ,elizabe?1 que5 ( ,h5ry ! sev5?1 8proce$$ f ! t[re ?r[ge ! citie ( ,london 7= h] coronation7 to ,we/m9/]1 al ! /rets !r wi* %e %ulde passe by1 7 cl5ly dress$ & bes5e ) clo!s ( tappe/reye & arras4 ,& "s /rets1 z ,*eepe1 hangg$ ) ri* clo!s ( gold1 velvetts1 & silks1 etc40 ,ma*yn 9 8 di>y tells u t z late z #aeee 8,b[ *yr*e 9 ,london 0 hangyd ) clo? ( gold & ) ry*e h>es 7arras740 ,bo? 9 ,engl& & abroad1 x 0 cu/om>y 9 ! middle ages to provide ri*ly decorat$ palls ) :i* to cov] ! bi]s ( dead p3 m especially ! memb]s ( v>i\s guilds4 ,"s ( ^! are /ill exi/+2 "o1 belong+ to ! ,london fi%mong]s' company2 ano!r1 ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 is 9 ! museum at ,ami5s4 ,illu/ration3 ,mortu>y ,clo? f ! *ur* ( ,folleville 7,somme71 n[ 9 ! museum at ,ami5s4 ,a celebrat$ ,mohamm$an writ]1 ,ebn-,khald\n1 :o di$ ab\t ! middle ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 :ile speak+ ( t spot 9 an ,arab palace1 ! 8,tiraz10 s designat$ f ! "n itself ( ! ri* silk5 /uffs !re9 wov51 tells u t "o ( ! privileges ( ! ,s>ac5ic k+s 0 to h ! "n ( ! pr9ce himself1 or ! special ensign *os5 by 8 h\se1 wov5 into ! /uffs int5d$ = 8 p]sonal we>1 :e!r wr\ght ( silk1 brocade1 or ev5 co>s] k9d ( silk4 ,:ile ge>+ 8 loom ! workman contriv$ t ! lett]s ( ! title %\ld come out ei!r 9 ?reads ( gold1 or 9 silk ( ano!r col\r f t ( ! gr\nd4 ,! royal app>el ?us bore ab\t x its own especial m>ks1 & di/+ui%$ n only ! sov]eign b ^? p]sonages ar\nd him :o 7 all[$ by _! (ficial rank 9 8 c\rt to we> x2 or ^? aga9 ^u :om he _h be/[$ ri* g>m5ts z especial tok5s ( ! imp]ial fav\r1 l ! mod]n pelisse ( hon\r4 ,be=e ! "t ( ,mahomet ! ea/]n pr9ces us$ to h wov5 ^u ! /uffs wr\ght = _! p]sonal use1 or z gifts to o!rs1 _! own especial lik5ess1 or at times ! peculi> ensign ( _! royalty4 ,b aft]w>ds ! cu/om 0 *ang$ & names 7 sub/itut$1 to :i* words 7 add$ =ebod+ good or c]ta9 =mulas ( praise4 ,:]ev] ! ,moslem rul$ ! practice 0 introduc$2 & ?us1 :e!r 9 ,asia1 9 ,egypt1 or o!r p>ts ( ,africa1 or 9 ,moori% ,spa91 ! silk5 g>m5ts = royalty & its fav\rites %[$ wov5 9 !m ! pr9ce's "n1 or 8 *os5 text4 ,! robes wr\ght 9 ,egypt = ! f>-fam$ ,salad91 & worn by him z caliph1 bore v conspicu\sly ^u !m ! "n ( t conqu]or4 ,9 ! old li/s ( *ur* ornam5ts frequ5t m5tion is f\nd ( ve/m5ts inscrib$ ) words 9 real or pret5d$ ,arabic2 & :5 ,/4 ,paul's inv5tory m ?an once speaks ( silk5 /uffs 8de op]e ,s>ac5o0 x is n improbable t "s at lea/ ( ^? textiles 7 s call$ f hav+ ,arabic *>act]s wov5 on !m4 ,su*1 too1 7 ! lett]s on ! r$ pall figur$ ) elephants & a bird1 belong+ 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury to ! ca!dral at ,exet]4 ,some:at lat]1 our trade ) ! s\? ( ,spa9 l$ u to call su* words on wov5 /uffs ,moori%3 ?us1 ,joane lady ,b]gav5ny bequea?s 7#adcd7 a 8hullyng 7hang+s = a hall7 ( black r$ & gre51 ) morys lett]s1 etc40 ,illu/ration3 ,silk damask 7,sicilian7 ) imitat$ ,arabic lett]s4 ,! weav+ ( lett]s 9 textiles is nei!r a ,moori% nor ,s>ac5ic inv5tion2 ages be=e1 ! anci5t ,p>?ians us$ to d s1 z we le>n f ,pl9y3 8,p>?i lit]as ve/ibus intexunt40 ,a curi\s illu/ration ( ! frequ5t use ( silk5 /uffs be>+ lett]s1 borr[$ f "s real or suppos$ ori5tal alphabet1 is ! cu/om :i* _m ( ! illum9ators _h ( figur+ on frontals & alt> canopies1 evid5tly int5d$ to repres5t silk1 mean+less words2 & ! arti/s ( ,italy up to ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury did ! same on ! hems ( ! g>m5ts worn by great p]sonages1 9 _! pa9t+s4 ,! eagle1 s+le & d\ble-head$1 may frequ5tly be f\nd 9 ! patt]ns ( old silks4 ,9 all ages c]ta9 birds ( prey h be5 look$ ^u by hea!ns z om9\s = good or evil4 ,^u ! /&>d :i* 0 c>ri$ at ! head ( ! ,dani% invad]s ( ,nor?umbria 0 figur$ ! rav51 ! bird ( ,od94 ,?is bann] _h be5 work$ by ! daught]s ( ,regn> ,lodbrok1 9 "o noontide's :ile2 & x is record$ by ,ass] t if victory 0 to foll[1 ! rav5 w\ld seem to /& erect & z if ab\t to so> be=e ! w>riors2 b if a defeat 0 imp5d+1 ! rav5 hung 8 head & droop$ 8 w+s4 ,ano!r & a m important flag1 t :i* ,h>old f\ght "u at ,ha/+s1 is describ$ by ,malmesbury z hav+ be5 embroid]$ 9 gold ) ! figure ( a man 9 ! act ( fight+1 & /udd$ ) preci\s /ones1 wov5 sumptu\sly4 ,9 /ill e>li] ages ! eagle1 kn[n = its d>+ & its l(ty flight1 0 held 9 high repute2 z ! emblem ( p[] & victory x is to be se5 fly+ 9 triumph ov] ! head ( "s ,assyrian conqu]or1 z may be witness$ 9 ,lay>d's "w on ,n9eveh4 ,hom] calls x ! bird ( ,jove4 ,qu9tus ,curtius says t a gold5 eagle 0 c>v$ ^u ! yoke ( ! w> *>iot ( k+ ,d>ius1 z if out/ret*+ 8 w+s4 ,! ,romans bore ! bird ^u _! /&>ds2 ! ,byzant9e emp]ors kept x z _! device2 &1 foll[+ ! anci5t traditions ( ! ea/ & he$less ( _! law t =bids ! mak+ ( images1 ! ,s>ac5s1 especially :5 !y rul$ 9 ,egypt1 _h ! eagle figur$ on sev]al ?+s ab\t !m1 sometimes s+le at o!rs d\ble-head$1 :i* latt] 0 ! %ape adopt$ by ! emp]ors ( ,g]many z _! blazon2 9 :i* =m x is borne to ?is day by sev]al reign+ h\ses4 ,x is n /range1 !re=e1 t eagles ( bo? fa%ions are s (t5 to be obs]v$ wov5 ^u anci5t & ea/]n textiles4 ,z e>ly z #abgg ,exet] ca!dral reckon$ among h] ve/m5ts sev]al s decorat$2 = in/ance1 a cope ( baudek9 figur$ ) small two-head$ eagles3 & ,ri*>d k+ ( ,g]many1 bro!r ( ,h5ry ! ?ird ( ,engl&1 gave to ! same *ur* a cope ( black baudek9 ) eagles 9 gold figur$ on x4 ,^! are record$ 9 ! inv5tories pr9t$ by ,dr4 ,oliv]2 & _m l in/ances might be notic$ 9 o!r li/s4 ,illu/ration3 ,ladies c>d+ & sp9n+2 f ,,mss4 ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 9 ! ,briti% museum4 ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,hi!rto no attempt has be5 made to di/ribute old5 silk5 textiles into v>i\s s*ools2 b ! num]\s specim5s 9 ! admirable collection at ,s\? ,k5s+ton enable u to sep>ate !m into sev]al gr\ps--,*9ese1 ,p]sian1 ,byzant9e1 ,indian1 ,syrian1 ,s>ac5ic1 ,moresco-,spani%1 ,sicilian1 ,italian1 ,flemi%1 ,briti%1 & ,fr5*4 ,we %all n[ especially ref] to t collection4 ,! ,*9ese examples are n _m3 b1 :e!r pla9 or figur$1 !y are beautiful 9 _! own way4 ,f all t we "k ( ! p1 we are l$ to believe t _! /yle two ?\s& ye>s ago is ! same /ill2 s t ! web wr\ght by !m ?is ye> or ?ree hundr$ ye>s ago1 l no4 #acfh1 w\ld diff] h>dly 9 a l9e f _! f> e>li] textiles2 ( :i* ,dionysius ,p]iegetes wrote t 8! ,s]es make preci\s figur$ g>m5ts1 resembl+ 9 col\r ! fl[]s ( ! field1 & rivall+ 9 f95ess ! "w ( spid]s40 ,9 ^! /uffs1 w>p & wo( are ( silk & bo? ( ! be/ k9ds4 ,p]sian textiles1 z we see !m at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 mu/ also h be5 = _m c5turies v mu* ! same 9 design & "*4 ,sometimes ! design is made up ( v>i\s k9ds ( bea/s & birds1 real or imag9>y1 ) ! sport+ *eetah spott$ among !m2 & ! 8homa0 or tree ( life conspicu\sly set above all4 ,9 su* cases we may conclude t ! web 0 wr\ght by ,p]sians1 & g5]ally ! textile w be f\nd 9 all its p>ts to be ( ! ri*e/ mat]ials4 ,no4 #hbcc1 may be ref]r$ to z an illu/ration ( ! ,p]sian type4 ,a s*ool ( design sprung up among ! ,byzant9e ,greeks1 f ! "t :5 9 ! six? c5tury !y began to weave home-gr[n silk1 :i* reta9$ n a little ( ! beauty1 bread?1 & fl[+ outl9e ( anci5t art4 ,toge!r ) ?is1 a /rong feel+ ( ,*ri/ianity %[$ itself z well 9 _m ( ! subjects :i* !y took out ( holy writ z 9 ! small] elem5ts ( ornam5tation4 ,figures1 :e!r ( ! human =m or ( bea/s1 are giv5 9 a mu* l>g] & bold] size ?an on any o!r anci5t /uffs4 ,?\gh !re are n _m kn[n specim5s f ! old looms ( ,con/ant9ople !re is "o1 no4 #gjcf1 %[+ ,samson wre/l+ ) a lion1 :i* may s]ve z a type4 ,9 ! ye> #abie ,/4 ,paul's ca!dral w\ld seem to h possess$ sev]al ve/m5ts made ( ,byzant9e silk4 ,a v spl5did dalmatic ( ,byzant9e silk1 probably ( ! twelf? c5tury1 is pres]v$ 9 ! treasury ( ,/4 ,pet]'s at ,rome4 ,! col\r is d>k blue1 & ! embroid]y 9 gold & col\rs4 ,! specim5s at ,s\? ,k5s+ton f ! ,byzant9e & lat] ,greek loom are n to be tak5 z by any means fir/-rate examples ( its g5]al production4 ,!y are poor bo? 9 mat]ial &1 :5 figur$1 9 design4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 _m pieces3 nos4 #abda1 #abdf1 #abeg1 #abff1 etc4 ,indian anci5t silks & textiles h _! own di/9ctive m>ks4 ,f ,m>co ,polo1 :o w&]$ mu* ov] ! f> ea/ "s "t dur+ ! ?irte5? c5tury1 we le>n t ! weav+ 9 ,india 0 done by wom5 :o wr\ght 9 silk & gold1 aft] a noble mann]1 bea/s & birds ^u _! webs3--8,le loro donne lavorano tutte cose a seta e ad oro e a uccelli e a be/ie nobilm5te e lavorano di cort9e ed altre cose molto ricam5te40 ,illu/ration3 ,byzant9e ,dalmatic3 pres]v$ at ,rome4 ,sev]al ( ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton m$ival specim5s f ,t>t>y & ,india %[ well ! tru?fulness ( ! great ,v5etian travell]1 :ile speak+ ab\t ! textiles :i* he saw 9 ^? c\ntries4 ,! d>k purple piece ( silk figur$ 9 gold ) birds & bea/s ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 no4 #gjhf1 is good2 b bett] /ill is ! %r$ ( blue damask1 no4 #gjhg1 ) its birds1 its animals1 & fl[]s wr\ght 9 gold & diff]5t col\r$ silks4 ,india1 also1 has ev] be5 fam\s = its cl\d-l transp>5t musl9s1 :i* s9ce ,m>co ,polo's days h kept t ori5tal "n1 ?r\gh be+ bett] wov5 at ,mosul ?an else:]e4 ,! ,syrian s*ool is well repres5t$ at ,s\? ,k5s+ton by sev]al f9e pieces4 ,! :ole sea-bo>d ( t "p ( ,asia m9or1 z well z f> inl&1 0 inhabit$ by a mixture ( ,jews1 ,*ri/ians1 & ,s>ac5s2 & all 7 work]s 9 silk4 ,! reputation ( ! neighb\r+ ,p]sia _h ( old /ood high = ! beauty & durability ( h] silk5 textiles1 :i* caus$ !m to be s\ght = by ! ,european trad]s4 ,p]sia's outlet to ! we/ = h] goods lay ?r\gh ! great comm]cial ports on ! coa/ ( ,syria4 ,p]sia 0 accu/om$ to set h] own peculi> seal ^u h] figur$ webs1 by m+l+ 9 h] designs ! my/ic 8homa30 &1 naturally1 ?is "p ( ! patt]n became 9 ! eyes ( ,europeans1 at fir/1 a sort ( assurance t ^? goods _h be5 made 9 ,p]sian looms4 ,by "o ( ! tricks ( imitation foll[$ 9 t day1 z well z n[1 ! ,syrian design]s ?rew ! 8homa0 into _! patt]ns4 ,borr[$ p]haps orig9ally f ,hebrew tradition1 ?is symbol ( 8! tree ( life0 _h 9 x no?+ objectionable ei!r to ! ,*ri/ian1 ! ,jew1 or ! ,moslem3 all ?ree1 !re=e1 took x & made x a lead+ portion ( design 9 ! patt]ns ( _! silks2 & h5ce x is t we meet ) x s (t54 ,?\gh at ! beg9n+1 x may be1 done ) a fraudul5t int5tion ( palm+ on ! _w ,syrian = ,p]sian silks1 ! ,syrians usually put also into _! fabrics a some?+ :i* decl>$ ! real workman%ip4 ,mix$ ) ! 8homa10 ! 8*eetah10 & o!r elem5ts ( ,p]sian patt]ns1 ! discordant two-h&l$ vase or ! badly-imitat$ ,arabic s5t5ce betrays ! textile to be n ,p]sian b ,syrian4 ,no4 #hcei exemplifies ?is4 ,fur!rmore1 probably 9 ignorance ab\t ,p]sia's sup]/iti\s use ( ! 8homa0 9 h] old religi\s s]vices1 ! ,*ri/ian weav]s ( ,syria put ! sign ( ! cross by ! side ( ! 8tree ( life30 z we f9d ^u ! piece ( silk1 no4 #gjid4 ,ano!r rem>kable specim5 ( ! ,syrian loom is no4 #gjcd1 :]eon ! ,n9eveh lions come =? conspicu\sly4 ,z good examples ( well-wr\ght 8diaspron0 or diap]1 no4 #hbcc & no4 #gjeb may be m5tion$4 ,s>ac5ic weav+1 z %[n by ! design ^u ! web1 is exemplifi$ 9 sev]al specim5s at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,h[ev] mu* aga9/ :at looks l a he$lessness ( ! tea*+ ( ! ,koran1 x is c]ta9 t ! ,s>ac5s1 ^? ( ! upp] classes 9 p>ticul>1 felt no difficulty 9 we>+ robes ^u :i* animals & ! lik5esses ( creat$ ?+s 7 wov52 ) ! /ricte/ ( _! pr9ces a d\ble-head$ eagle1 possibly borr[$ f ! crusad]s1 0 a royal h]aldic device4 ,/uffs figur$ ) birds & bea/s1 ) trees & fl[]s1 7 n ! less on t acc\nt ( ,s>ac5ic workman%ip1 & meant = ,moslem we>4 ,:at1 h[ev]1 may be *iefly look$ = ^u ,s>ac5ic textures is a patt]n consi/+ ( longitud9al /ripes ( blue1 r$1 gre51 & o!r col\r2 "s ( !m *>g$ ) animals1 small 9 =m2 "s writt51 9 l>ge ,arabic lett]s1 ) a ^w or s5t5ce4 ,moresco-,spani% or ,s>ac5ic textiles wr\ght 9 ,spa91 ?\gh p>tak+ ( ! /rip$ patt]n & be>+ words 9 real or imitat$ ,arabic1 _h "s di/9ctions ( _! own4 ,! designs %[n ^u ^! /uffs are almo/ always drawn out ( /rap-"w1 reticulations1 or "s comb9ation ( geometrical l9es1 amid :i* are occasionally to be f\nd diff]5t =ms ( conv5tional fl[]s4 ,sometimes1 b v r>ely1 ! cresc5t moon is figur$ z 9 ! curi\s piece1 no4 #hfci4 ,! col\rs ( ^! silks are usually ei!r a f9e crimson or a deep blue ) almo/ always a f9e ton$ yell[ z a gr\nd4 ,b "o rem>kable feature 9 ^! ,moresco-,spani% textiles is ! pres5ce ( ! +5i\s imitation 7be=e spok5 (7 ( gold2 = :i* %r$s ( gild$ p>*m5t cut up into n>r[ flat /rips are sub/itut$ & wov5 ) ! silk4 ,?is1 :5 fre%1 mu/ h look$ v bright1 & h giv5 ! web all ! appe>ance ( ! fav\rite /uffs call$ "h 9 ,engl& 8tissues40 ,! fraud1 z already expla9$1 if fraud x 71 is n easily discov]$ )\t a magnify+ glass4 ,a guide may be f\nd 9 ! blackness ( ! gold4 ,nos4 #gjie1 #heij1 & #hfci1 are examples ( ?is gild$ vellum4 ,! ,sicilian s*ool /rongly m>k$ wide diff]5ces betwe5 itself & all ! o!rs :i* _h liv$ be=e2 & ! hi/ory ( its loom is z int]e/+ z x is v>i$4 ,! fir/ to tea* ! natives ( ,sicily h[ to re> ! silkworm & sp9 its silk 71 z x w\ld seem1 ! ,mahom$ans1 :o com+ ov] f ,africa br\ght ) !m1 besides ! art ( weav+ silk5 textiles1 a k ( ! fauna ( t va/ cont95t--its giraffes1 its antelopes1 its gazelles1 its lions1 its elephants4 ,^! invad]s told !m also ( ! p>rots ( ,india & ! hunt+ sort ( leop>d1--! *eetahs2 & :5 ! /uff 0 wr\ght = ,european we> bo? bea/ & bird 7 imag$ ^u ! web1 & at ! same "t a ^w 9 ,arabic 0 wov5 94 ,l all o!r ,s>ac5s1 ^? 9 ,sicily lov$ to m+le gold 9 _! tissues2 &1 to sp>e ! silk1 cotton ?read 0 n unfrequ5tly work$ up 9 ! w>p4 ,:51 !re=e1 we meet ) bea/s tak5 f ! fauna ( ,africa1 su*1 especially1 z ! giraffe & ! sev]al classes ( ! antelope family1 ) p]haps also an ,arabic motto1 & "p ( ! patt]n wr\ght 9 gold1 z well z cotton 9 ! w>p1 we may fairly take ! specim5 z a piece ( ,sicily's "w 9 its fir/ p]iod ( weav+ silk4 ,! second epo* 0 :5 9 ! twelf? c5tury ,rog]1 k+ ( ,sicily1 took ,cor9?1 ,!bes1 & ,a!ns2 f ea* ( :i* cities he l$ away captives all ! m5 & wom5 he c\ld f9d :o knew h[ to weave silks1 & c>ri$ !m to ,pal]mo4 ,^! ,grecian new com]s br\ght fre% designs :i* 7 adopt$ sometimes :olly1 at o!rs b 9 "p & mix$ up ) ! old] ,s>ac5ic /yle4 ,9 ?is second p]iod ( ! isl&'s loom we discov] :at traces ! ,byzant9e s*ool impress$ ^u ,sicilian silks1 & help$ s mu* to alt] ! type ( _! fir/ designs4 ,on "o silk1 ! patt]n is a grotesque mask amid ! graceful tw9+s ( luxuriant foliage1 su* z might h be5 !n f\nd ^u _m a fragm5t ( old ,greek sculpture2 ?is may be se5 on no4 #hbda2 on ano!r1 a sov]eign on horseback we>+ ! royal cr[n & c>ry+ a hawk ^u 8 wri/1 z 9 no4 #hehi2 on a ?ird1 no4 #hbcd1 is ! ,greek cross1 ) a patt]n mu* l ! old nett$ or 8de fundato0 k9d :i* has be5 describ$1 p4 #ch4 ,b ,sicily's ?ird is q h] own peculi> /yle4 ,at ! end ( ! ?irte5? & beg9n+ ( ! f\rte5? c5tury %e /ruck into an untri$ pa?4 ,)\t ?r[+ aside ! old elem5ts employ$ by ! ,mahom$ans ,sicily put ) !m ! emblem ( ,*ri/ianity1 ! cross1 9 v>i\s =ms1 on "s occasions ) ! lett] ,v4 f\r times repeat$4 ,f ! ea/ to ! utt]mo/ we/]n bord]s ( ! ,m$it]ranean ! weav]s ( e c\ntry _h be5 9 ! habit ( figur+ ^u _! silks ^? bea/s & birds !y saw ar\nd !m3 ! ,t>t>1 ! ,indian1 & ! ,p]sian gave u ! p>rot & ! *eetah2 ! ,africans1 ! giraffe & ! gazelle2 ! p ( ea* cont95t1 ! lions1 ! elephants1 ! eagles1 & ! o!r birds common to bo?4 ,f ! sculpture ( ! ,greeks & ,romans ! ,sicilians c\ld h easily copi$ ! fabl$ griff9 & ! c5taur2 b x 0 left = _! own wild imag9+s to figure su* an odd comp\nd 9 "o be+ z ! animal--half elephant1 half griff9--:i* we see 9 no4 #abhh4 ,_! d>+ flights ( fancy 9 c\pl+ ! difficult ) ! beautiful are curi\s2 9 "o piece l>ge eagles are p]*$ 9 pairs ) a radiat+ sun betwe5 !m1 & b5ea? are dogs1 9 pairs1 runn+ ) heads turn$ back2 9 ano!r1 runn+ h>ts h caught "o ( _! h9d legs 9 a cord ti$ to _! coll>1 & an eagle swoops d[n ^u !m2 & ! same animal1 9 ano!r place on ! same piece1 has swit*$ its tail into ! la/ l9k ( a *a9 fa/5$ to its neck2 on a ?ird sample are h>ts1 ! lett] ,m floriat$1 w+$ lions1 crosses floriat$1 crosses spr\t+ out on two sides ) fleurs-de-lis1 & f\r-legg$ mon/]s1 "s l w+$ lions1 "s bit+ _! tails4 ,h>dly else:]e to be f\nd are c]ta9 elem5ts peculi> to ! patt]ns ^u silks f m$ival ,sicily2 su*1 = in/ance1 z h>ts1 & demi-dogs ) v l>ge w+s1 bo? animals hav+ rem>kably long manes /ream+ f> beh9d !m2 or h>ts lodg$ "u gre5 trees 9 a p>k ) pal+ ab\t x4 ,! hawk1 ! eagle1 d\ble & s+le head$1 or ! p>rot1 may be f\nd on /uffs all ov] ! ea/2 n s1 h[ev]1 ! swan1 :i* 0 a fav\rite ) ,sicilians & may be se5 (t5 drawn ) mu* gracefulness4 ,! ,sicilians %[$ _! /rong affection = c]ta9 plants & fl[]s4 ,on a great _m ( ! silks 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton collection f ,pal]mitan looms we see figur$ ^u a tawny col\r$ gr\nd+ beautifully drawn foliage 9 gre52 sometimes v9e leaves1 sometimes :at looks l p>sley1 s curl$1 crispy1 & s]rat$ are its leaves4 ,ano!r peculi>ity is ! introduction ( ! lett] ,u1 repeat$ s z to m>k ! fea!r+ ^u ! tails ( birds2 or to fall into ! %ape ( an ,o2 z 9 nos4 #heia1 #heii4 ,:e!r x 0 t ! crusad]s made ,sicily s (t5 ! halt+ spot on _! way to ! holy l&1 or t knights cr[d$ !re = o!r purposes1 & ?us dazzl$ ! eyes ( ! isl&]s ) ! brav]y ( _! armorial be>+s1 x is c]ta9 t ! ,sicilians 7 p>ticul>ly giv5 to introduce _m h]aldic *>ges--wyv]ns1 eagles1 lions rampant1 & griff9s--into _! designs4 ,! occasions 9 :i* su* elem5ts ( blazon+ come 9 are s num]\s t "o ( ! features belong+ to ! ,sicilian loom 9 its ?ird p]iod is t1 bat+ t9ctures1 x is decid$ly h]aldic4 ,illu/ration3 ,silk damask--,sicilian3 f\rte5? c5tury4 ,all ?is beauty & happ9ess ( inv5tion1 set =? by bold1 free1 spirit$ draw+1 7 be/[$ too (t5 ^u /uffs ( a v poor inf]ior quality1 9 :i* ! gold if n actually base 0 always scanty1 & a good deal ( cotton 0 wr\ght up ) ! silk4 ,till )9 a few ye>s pa/ ! royal manufactory at ,/a4 ,leucia1 ne> ,naples1 produc$ silks ( rem>kable ri*ness2 & ! piece1 no4 #gba1 does cr$it to its loom1 z x wove 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,nor!rn ,italy 0 n idle2 & ! looms :i* %e set up 9 sev]al ( h] great cities1 9 ,lucca1 ,flor5ce1 ,g5oa1 ,v5ice1 & ,milan1 e>n$ = !mselves a good repute & a wide trade = _! gold & silv] tissues1 _! velvets1 & _! figur$ silk5 textiles4 ,yet1 9 ! same way z ea* ( ^! free /ates _h its own acc5t & prov9cialisms 9 spee*1 s also _h x a some?+ (t5 ?r[n into its designs & /yle ( draw+ :i* told ( ! place & prov9ce :5ce ! textiles came4 ,lucca at an e>ly p]iod made h]self kn[n 9 ,europe = h] textiles2 b h] workm51 l ^? ( ,sicily1 seem to h ?\ght !mselves b\nd to foll[ ! /yle br\ght by ! ,s>ac5s ( figur+ p>rots & peacocks1 gazelles1 & ev5 *eetahs1 z we see 9 ! specim5s no4 #hbeh & no4 #hfaf4 ,b ) ^! ea/]n animals %e mix$ up emblems ( h] own1 su* z angels clo!d 9 :ite4 ,%e soon dropp$ :at 0 ori5tal f h] patt]ns :i* %e began to draw 9 a l>g]1 bold] mann]1 & %[+ an incl9ation = light blue z a col\r4 ,z 9 o!r places abroad s at ,lucca clo?s ( gold & ( silv] 7 (t5 wr\ght1 & ! ,luc*ese clo?s ( ?is co/ly sort 7 9 mu* reque/ 9 ,engl& dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,9 all likelihood !y 7 n ( ! dead5$ b ! sp>kl+ k9d1 aft]w>ds especially kn[n z 8tissue40 ,exet] ca!dral1 9 #acbg1 _h a cope ( silv] tissue1 or clo? ( ,lucca3--8de panno de ,luk40 ,at a lat] date1 belong+ to ! same *ur*1 7 two f9e *asubles--"o purple1 ! o!r r$--( ! same glitt]+ /uff3 8de purpyll panno40 ,york ca!dral possess$ _m copes ( tissue %ot ) e col\r requir$ by its ritual1 & among !m 7 8a reade cope ( clo! ( ti%ewe ) orphry ( pe>l1 a cope ) orphrey1 a cope ( rais$ clo! ( g\lde10 mak+ a di/9ction betwe5 tissue & ! ord9>y clo? ( gold4 ,9 ! w>drobe acc\nts ( ,edw>d ! second ! gold5 tissue1 or ,lucca clo?1 is sev]al times m5tion$4 ,:e!r ! c]emony happ5$ to be sad or gay ?is glitt]+ web 0 us$2 palls made ( ,lucca clo? 71 at masses = ! dead1 /rew$ ov] ! corpse2 at m>riages ! c>e-clo? 0 made ( ! same /uff3 ?us :5 ,ri*>d de ,arundell & ,isabella1 ,hugh le ,desp5s]'s daught]1 _h be5 w$d$ at ! door ( ! royal *apel1 ! veil held spread out ov] _! heads z !y knelt inside ! *ancel dur+ ! nuptial mass 0 ( ,lucca clo?4 ,ab\t ! same "t velvet became kn[n1 & came into use bo? = ve/m5ts & = p]sonal we>2 & ,lucca probably 0 among ! fir/ places 9 ,europe to weave x4 ,! specim5s at ,s\? ,k5s+ton ( ?is f9e textile f ,luc*ese looms1 ?\gh few 9 comp>ison ) ^? f ,g5oa1 /ill h a c]ta9 hi/orical value = ! ,engli% workman3 no4 #aceg1 ) its olive gre5 pla9 silk5 gr\nd & trail$ all ov] ) fl[]s & leaves 9 a some:at deep] tone1 & ! e>li] example1 no4 #hcbb1 ) its ovals & fea!r+ /opp$ ) graceful cusps & arti*okes1 af=d u good in/ances ( :at ,lucca c\ld produce 9 ! way ( arti/ic velvets4 ,g5oa1 ?\gh 9 m$ival times n s conspicu\s z %e aft]w>ds became = h] textile indu/ry1 enc\rag$ ov] h] n>r[ t]ritory ! weav+ ( silk5 webs4 ,( ^! ! e>lie/ m5tion we h f\nd is 9 ! inv5tory ( ve/m5ts belong+ to ,/4 ,paul's ca!dral1 ,london1 9 #abie3 besides a cope ( ,g5oa clo? t *ur* _h1 ( ! same manufacture1 a hang+ patt]n$ ) :eels & two-head$ birds4 ,?\gh ?is fir/ description be scant1 we may reasonably ga!r t ! ,g5oese clo?s mu/ h resembl$ ! textiles wr\ght at ,lucca4 ,g5oa /ill keeps up h] old reputation = beautiful velvets4 ,9 ! collection at ,s\? ,k5s+ton !re are examples ( e k9d ( ,g5oese velvets2 "s ) a smoo? unbrok5 surface1 "s elaborately patt]n$ & %[+1 toge!r ) wond]ful skill 9 ! weav+1 mu* beauty ( design4 ,"s are rais$ or cut1 ! design be+ work$ 9 a pile /&+ well up by itself out ( a flat gr\nd ( silk1 ei!r ( ! same or ( ano!r col\r1 & n unfrequ5tly wr\ght 9 gold4 ,no4 #ggie is an example ( a v co/ly k9d2 9 :i* ! gr\nd is velvet1 & aga9 ( velvet is ! patt]n itself b rais$ "o pile high] ?an ! o!r1 s z to %[ its =m & %ape di/9ctly4 ,no4 #hcbc %[s h[ ! design 0 work$ 9 v>i\s col\r$ velvet4 ,?is la/ 0 a fav\rite 9 ,engl& & call$ motley2 9 8 w1 #adae1 pr9t$ 9 ,rym]s ,fd]a1 ,h5ry "l ,scrope bequea!d two ve/m5ts1 "o1 motley velvet rubeo de auro2 ! o!r1 motley velvet nigro1 rubeo et viridi1 etc4 ,v5ice does n seem to h be5 at any "t1 l ,sicily & ,lucca1 smitt5 ) ! ta/e ( imitat+ 9 h] looms ! patt]ns :i* %e saw abroad ^u textile fabrics1 b appe>s to h borr[$ f ! ori5tals only "o k9d ( weav+ clo? ( gold3 ! yell[ *asuble at ,exet] ca!dral 9 #acbg1 figur$ ) bea/s1 is ! only in/ance we "k :]e %e wove animals ^u silks4 ,v5ice1 h[ev]1 set up = h]self a new bran* ( textiles1 & wr\ght = *ur* use squ>e webs ( a crimson gr\nd on :i* 7 figur$1 9 gold or on yell[ silk1 subjects tak5 f ! ,scriptures or ! p]sons ( sa9ts & angels4 ,^! squ>e pieces 7 employ$1 sew$ toge!r1 z frontals to alt>s1 b :5 longwise m g5]ally z orphreys to *asubles1 copes1 & o!r ve/m5ts4 ,!re is a rem>kable simil>ity betwe5 ! draw+ ( ! figures ^u old ,v5etian silks & ! woodcuts 9 books publi%$ at ,v5ice 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! sixte5? c5tury2 su* z ! f9e pontifical by ,giunta1 or ! 8,ros>io0 by ,v>isco4 ,we f9d 9 bo? ! same /yle & mann]2 ! same broad fold & fall ( drap]y2 ! same plumpness & outl9e ( ! human face & figure4 ,s ne> is ! lik5ess 9 design t we may almo/ believe t ! arti/s :o suppli$ ! blocks = ! pr9t]s sket*$ also ! draw+s = ! looms4 ,by ! fifte5? c5tury ,v5ice knew h[ to produce good damasks 9 silk & gold3 if we _h no?+ m ?an ! specim51 no4 #acaa1 :]e ,/4 ,m>y ( ,egypt is s well repres5t$1 x w\ld be q en\gh = h] to claim = h]self su* a di/9ction4 ,nor c !re be mu* d\bt t ,v5ice wr\ght 9 velvet2 & if ^? ri* /uffs 7 made !re1 sometimes rais$1 sometimes pile ^u pile1 9 :i* h] pa9t]s lov$ to dress ! p]sonages1 m5 especially1 9 _! pictures1 !n ,v5etian velvets 7 c]ta9ly beautiful4 ,( ?is any "o may satisfy himself by "o visit to our ,national gall]y4 ,!re1 9 ! 8,adoration ( ! magi0 pa9t$ by ,paulo ,v]onese1 ! second ( ! wise m5 is clad 9 a robe ( crimson velvet1 cut or rais$ aft] a design 9 keep+ ) ! /yle ( ! p]iod4 ,no insignificant article ( ,v5etian textile workman%ip 7 h] laces wr\ght 9 e v>iety2 9 gold1 9 silk1 9 ?read4 ,! portrait ( a ,doge usually %[s him clo!d 9 8 dress ( /ate4 ,8 wide mantle1 ) l>ge gold5 buttons1 is made ( "s ri* dull silv] clo?2 & on 8 head is ! ,phrygian-%ap$ ducal cap b\nd r\nd ) broad gold lace diap]$1 z we see 9 ! bu/ portrait ( ,lor$ano1 pa9t$ by ,john ,bell9i1 9 ! ,national gall]y4 ,n only 0 ! gold 9 ! ?read p>ticul>ly good b ! lace itself 9 great fav\r at ! ,engli% c\rt at "o "t2 b\ght1 n by y>d measure b by weight1 8a p\nde & a half ( gold ( ,v5ys0 0 employ$ 8ab\te ! mak+ ( a lace & botons = ! k+'s mantell ( ! g>t]40 ,?is 0 = ,h5ry ! sev5?4 8,fr5ge ( ,v5ys gold0 appe>s twice 9 ! w>drobe acc\nts ( ,edw>d ! f\r?4 ,laces 9 wor/$ or 9 l95 ?read wr\ght by ! bobb9 at ,v5ice1 b m especially h] po9t laces or su* z 7 done ) ! ne$le1 always _h1 z !y /ill h1 a great reputation4 ,v5etian l95s1 = f9e t[ell+ & nap]y 9 g5]al1 7 9 fav\rite use 9 ,france dur+ a "p ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,9 ! #8,ducs de ,b\rgogne' by ,laborde1 m ?an once we meet ) su* an entry z 8une pice de nappes1 ouvraige de ,v5ise40 ,illu/ration3 ,silk damask--,flor5t9e3 fifte5? c5tury4 ,flor5ce1 ab\t ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 obta9$ a place 9 ! =emo/ rank amid ! weav]s ( nor!rn ,italy4 ,specim5s ( h] e>lie/ h&icraft are r>e2 !re are two at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,"o ( ^!1 no4 #hefc1 %[s ! excell5ce ( h] "w 9 secul> silks4 ,o!r pieces witness to ! delicacy ( h] design at a lat] "t1 ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,! orphrey-webs ( ,flor5ce are equally conspicu\s = draw+ & skill 9 weav+1 & 9 beauty come up to ^? made at ,v5ice1 f> surpass+ any?+ ( ! k9d ev] wr\ght at ,cologne4 ,b x 0 ( h] velvets t ,flor5ce 0 w>rantably pr\d4 ,h5ry ! sev5? bequea!d 8to ,god & ,/4 ,pet]1 & to ! abbot & prior & conv5t ( our mona/]y ( ,we/m9/]1 ! :ole suit ( ve/m5ts made at ,flor5ce 9 ,italy40 ,we may yet see h[ gorge\s ?is textile 0 9 "o ( ^! ,we/m9/] abbey copes /ill 9 exi/5ce1 pres]v$ at ,/onyhur/ college4 ,! gold5 gr\nd is trail$ all ov] ) leaf-be>+ b\ghs ( a bold type1 9 rais$ or cut ruby-ton$ velvet ( a ri* s(t pile1 :i* is freckl$ ) gold ?read spr\t+ up l loops4 ,?\gh n s ri* 9 mat]ial nor s spl5did 9 patt]n1 !re are at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 nos4 #ggib & #ggii1 two specim5s ( ,flor5t9e cut crimson velvet on a gold5 gr\nd1 l ! royal ve/m5ts 9 _! k9d & hav+ ! same peculi>ity1 ! little gold ?read loop %oot+ out ( ! velvet pile4 ,^! pieces are a full c5tury lat] ?an ! cope at ,/onyhur/4 ,t peculi> sort ( ornam5tation--! little loop ( gold ?read /&+ well up & 9 s+le spots--^u "s velvets1 seems at times to h be5 replac$1 p]haps ) ! ne$le1 by small dots ( solid metal1 gold or silv] gilt1 ^u ! pile3 ( ! gift ( "o ( its bi%ops1 ,john ,gr&isson1 ,exet] ca!dral _h a crimson velvet cope1 ! purple velvet orphrey ( :i* 0 s wr\ght3 8purpyll velvette work$ ) pyn%$s0 ( pure gold4 ,milan1 ?\gh n[-a-days %e /&s 9 su* high repute = ! ri*ness & beauty ( h] silks ( all sorts1 0 n1 we believe1 at any p]iod dur+ m$ival times z fam\s = h] velvets1 h] brocades1 or clo?s ( gold1 z = h] arm\r1 s /rong & tru/wor?y = ! field1 s exquisitely demasc5$ = c\rtly s]vice4 ,/ill1 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 %e e>n$ a "n = ri* cut velvets z may be se5 9 ! specim51 no4 #fih2 = h] silk5 net-"w1 no4 #hccf1 :i* may h l$ ! way to weav+ silk /ock+s2 & = h] laces ( ! op5 t9sel k9d once 9 great vogue = bo? sacr$ & secul> use1 z 9 no4 #hcca4 ,engl&1 f h] e>lie/ p]iod1 _h textile fabrics v>y+ 9 design & mat]ial2 ! col\rs 9 ! wooll5 g>m5ts worn by ea* ( ! ?ree sev]al classes into :i* ! ,b>dic ord] 0 divid$1 & ( ! *equ]$ patt]n 9 ,boadicea's cloak1 h be5 already m5tion$4 ,x w\ld seem f ,john ,g>l&1 ^: witness is ref]r$ to above1 p4 #ab1 t ! light] & m ta/eful webs wr\ght "h came f wom5's h&s2 & ! loom1 "o ( :i* mu/ h be5 9 almo/ e ,engli% nunn]y & home/ead1 0 ( ! simple/ make4 ,9 anci5t times ! ,egyptians wove 9 an upright loom1 & beg9n+ at top s z to weave d[nw>ds sat at _! "w4 ,9 ,pale/9e also ! weav] _h an upright loom1 b1 beg9n+ at bottom & work+ upw>ds1 0 oblig$ to /&4 ,dur+ ! m$ival p]iod ! loom 9 ,engl& 0 horizontal1 z is %[n by t figur$ 9 ! ,b$=d book ( ,h\rs 7pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% museum71 fol4 #cb2 at :i* ! bless$ ,virg9 is seat$ weav+ curta9s = ! temple4 ,!re are sev]al examples at ,s\? ,k5s+ton ( ! "w ( ,engli% wom51 %[+ ! excell5ce ( _! h&icraft z well z elegance 9 design dur+ ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,nos4 #abcc1 #abef1 & #abgj may be ref]r$ to4 ,b = specim5s ( ! common] sorts ( silk5 textiles & ( wid] bread?1 :i* began to be wov5 9 ?is c\ntry "u ,edw>d ! ?ird1 x w\ld be haz>d\s to direct ! read]4 ,rec5t examples1 velvets among ! re/1 may be f\nd 9 ! ,brooke collection4 ,to "s /ud5ts ! piece ( old ,engli% pr9t$ *9tz1 no4 #afbb1 w n be )\t an int]e/4 ,= ! f9] sort ( l95 nap]y ,eyli%am or ,aile%am 9 ,l9coln%ire 0 fam\s dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,exet] ca!dral1 9 #acbg1 _h a h& t[el ( 8,aile%am clo?40 ,our co>s] native textiles 9 wool or 9 ?read1 or 9 bo? wov5 toge!r1 =m$ a /uff call$ 8burel40 ,/4 ,paul's 9 #abie _h a light blue *asuble1 & ,exet] ca!dral 9 #abgg a long pall ( ?is texture4 ,burel &1 9 %ort1 all ! co>s] k9ds ( "w 7 wr\ght by m53 sometimes 9 mona/]ies4 ,! old ,b5$ict9e rule oblig$ ! monks to give a c]ta9 numb] ( h\rs e week-day to h&-"w1 ei!r at home or 9 ! field4 ,! weav+ 9 ?is c\ntry ( wooll5 clo?1 z a /aple bran* ( trade1 is v old4 ,( ! monks at ,ba? abbey we are told by a late writ]1 8t ! %uttle & ! loom employ$ _! att5tion 7ab\t ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury71 & "u _! active auspices ! weav+ ( wooll5 clo? 7:i* made its appe>ance 9 ,engl& ab\t ! ye> #accj1 & receiv$ ! sanction ( an act ( p>liam5t 9 #accg7 0 introduc$1 e/abli%$1 & br\ght to su* p]fection at ,ba? z r5d]$ ! city "o ( ! mo/ consid]able 9 ! we/ ( ,engl& = ?is manufacture40 ,worce/] clo? 0 s good t1 by a *apt] ( ! ,b5$ict9e ord] held 9 #adbb at ,we/m9/] abbey1 x 0 =bidd5 to be worn by ! monks & decl>$ sm>t en\gh = milit>y m54 ,norwi* also wove /uffs t 7 9 dem& = co/ly h\sehold furniture2 & ,sir ,john ,cobham1 9 #acid1 bequea!d 8a b$ ( ,norwi* /uff embroid]$ ) butt]flies40 ,9 "o ( ! *apels at ,durham priory !re 7 f\r blue cu%ions ( ,norwi* "w4 ,wor/$1 a t[n 9 ,norfolk1 by a new me?od ( its own = ! c>d+ ( ! wool ) combs ( iron well heat$1 & !n twi/+ ! ?read h>d] ?an usual 9 ! sp9n+1 enabl$ our weav]s to produce a wooll5 /uff ( a peculi> quality1 to :i* ! "n itself ( wor/$ 0 imm$iately giv54 ,to su* a high repute did ! new web gr[ t *ur* ve/m5ts & dome/ic furniture ( ! *oice/ sorts 7 made out ( x4 ,exet] ca!dral among its *asubles _h sev]al 8de nigro wor/$0 9 clo? ( gold4 ,ve/m5ts made ( wor/$1 v>i\sly spelt 8worsett0 & 8wory/10 are enum]at$ 9 ! fabric rolls ( ,york m9/]4 ,elizabe? de ,bohun1 9 #acef1 bequea!d to h] daught] ! c\ntess ( ,arundel 8a b$ ( r$ wor/$ embroid]$20 & ,joane lady ,b]gav5ny leaves to ,john ( ,ormond 8a b$ ( clo? ( gold ) leb>des1 ) ^? cu%ions & tapettes ( my be/ r$ wor/$40 ,iri% clo?1 :ite & r$1 9 ! reign ( k+ ,john 0 mu* us$ 9 ,engl&2 & 9 ! h\sehold exp5ses ( ,sw9=d1 bi%op ( ,h]e=d 9 #abij1 an item occurs ( ,iri% clo? = l9+4 ,engli% weav]s knew also h[ to "w artificially design$ & well-figur$ webs4 ,9 ! w>drobe acc\nts ( ,edw>d ! second is ?is item3 8to a m]c] ( ,london = a gre5 hang+ ( wool wove ) figures ( k+s & e>ls ^u x1 = ! k+'s s]vice 9 8 hall on solemn fea/s at ,london40 ,su* 8salles10 z !y 7 call$ 9 ,france1 & 8hull+s0 or r 8hall+s0 ! "n !y w5t "u "h1 7 mu* valu$ abroad & 9 common use at home4 ,"u ! head ( 8,salles d',anglet]re0 among ! articles ( co/ly furniture belong+ to ,*>les ! fif? ( ,france1 9 #acfd1 "o set ( hang+s is ?us ent]$3 8une salle d',anglet]re v]meille brode d'azur1 et e/ la bordeure vignettes et le d$5s de lyons1 d'aigles et de lyep>s40 ,"h 9 ,engl&1 ,ri*>d e>l ( ,arundel 9 #acib will$ to 8 de> wife 8! hang+s ( ! hall :i* 0 lately made 9 ,london1 ( blue tape/ry ) r$ roses ) ! arms ( my sons10 etc42 & lady ,b]gav5ny1 aft] bequea?+ h] hully+ ( black1 r$1 & gre5 to "o fri5d1 left to ano!r h] be/ /a9$ 8hall40 ,flemi% textiles1 at lea/ ( ! less ambiti\s k9ds su* z nap]y & wooll5s1 7 mu* e/eem$ c5turies ago2 & our c\ntryman ,mat!w ( ,we/m9/] says ( ,fl&]s t1 made f ! mat]ial :i* we s5t h]1 ! wool1 %e s5t u back preci\s g>m5ts4 ,s important 0 ! supply ( wool to ! ,flem+s 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury t ! *eck giv5 to x by ! w>s betwe5 ,engl& & ,france at t "t l$ to a special treaty betwe5 ,edw>d ! ?ird & ! burgh]s ( ! ,flemi% communes "u ! guidance ( ,james van ,artevelde4 ,?\gh indu/ri\s ev]y:]e )9 h] limits1 "s ( ! t[ns ( ,fl&]s /ood =emo/ = c]ta9 k9ds ( /uff1 & ,bruges became 9 ! latt] end ( ! fifte5? c5tury conspicu\s = its silk5 textiles4 ,! sat9s ( ,bruges 7 us$ 9 ,engl& = *ur* g>m5ts4 ,haconbie *ur*1 9 #aeff1 _h 8"o :ite ve/m5te ( bridges satt5 repte 9 peces & a clo! made !re( to hange be=e our pulpitt20 & 9 #aebj ,york ca!dral _h 8a ve/m5t ( balkyn 7baudek97 ) a crosse ( gre5 satt5 9 bryges40 ,h] damasks silks 7 equally 9 dem&2 & ! specim5s at ,s\? ,k5s+ton w int]e/ ! /ud5t4 ,nos4 #hcah & #hccb %[ ! ability ( ! ,bruges loom2 :ile ! fav\rite patt]n ) ! pomegranate 9 x betrays ! lik+s ( ! ,spani>ds1 at t "t ! rul]s ( ! c\ntry1 = ?is tok5 ( _! r5[n$ ,isabella4 ,no4 #hcai is ano!r sample ( ,flemi% weav+1 ri* 9 its gold & full ( beauty 9 design4 ,9 h] velvets ,fl&]s _h no ne$ to fe> a comp>ison ) any?+ ( ! k9d t ,italy ev] ?rew (f f h] looms1 :e!r at ,v5ice1 ,flor5ce1 or ,g5oa4 ,n to "n o!rs "o example1 ) its clo? ( gold gr\nd & its patt]n 9 a d>k blue deep-pil$ velvet1 is n surpass$ 9 gorge\sness ev5 by t spl5did /uff f ,flor5ce ( :i* ! ,/onyhur/ cope1 j spok5 (1 0 made4 ,block-pr9t$ l95 t[>d ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury 0 ano!r production ( ,fl&]s4 ,?\gh exi/+ examples to ! eyes ( _m may look poor or mean1 yet to m5 l ! cotton-pr9t]s ( ,lanca%ire !y w h a /rong attraction2 & to ! s*ol> !y w be deeply int]e/+ z sugge/ive ( ! art ( pr9t+4 ,su* specim5s are r>e1 b x is likely t ,engl& c %[ 9 ! *apt] libr>y at ,durham ! e>lie/ sample ( ! k9d z yet kn[n2 a f9e %eet wrapp$ ab\t ! body ( "s old bi%op f\nd 9 a grave op5$ by ,mr4 ,ra9e 9 #ahbg1 )9 ! ca!dral4 ,sev]al pieces ( anci5t silks & ,engli% embroid]y 7 f\nd at ! same "t4 ,:at ,bruges 0 9 silks & velvets1 ,yprs1 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 became = l952 & = _m ye>s ,flemi% l95s 7 9 fav\rite use ?r\gh\t ,engl&4 ,h>dly a *ur* ( any size1 sc>cely a g5tleman's h\se 9 ?is c\ntry1 b us$ a quantity ( t[els & o!r nap]y t 0 made 9 ,fl&]s1 especially at ,yprs4 ,fr5* silks1 n[ 9 su* ext5sive use1 7 n mu* c>$ = until ! end ( ! sixte5? c5tury 9 ,france itself1 & seldom he>d ( abroad4 ,! read]1 !n1 mu/ n be a/oni%$ at f9d+ s few examples ( ! ,fr5* loom 9 any collection ( anci5t silk5 textiles4 ,9 ,france1 z 9 ,engl&1 wom5 9 m$ival days1 old & "y1 ri* & poor1 :ile fill+ up _! leisure h\rs 9-doors us$ to "w on a small loom1 weav+ n>r[ webs1 (t5 ( gold & diap]$ ) col\r$ silks4 ,at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 nos4 #abej1 #gjfb1 & #gjfd are examples ( su* ,fr5* wr\ght /uffs belong+ to ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,9 damasks1 ! e>lie/ ,fr5* productions are ( ! sixte5? c5tury2 & no4 #hceb is a fav\rable example ( :at ?is manufacture !n 0 9 ,france2 ev]y?+ lat] is ( ! type s well kn[n to ev]ybody4 ,9 sev]al ( h] textiles a lean+ t[>ds classicism 9 design is disc]nible4 ,l ,fl&]s1 ,france knew h[ to weave f9e l95 :i* "h 9 ,engl& 0 mu* employ$ = ecclesia/ical z well z h\sehold purposes4 ,?ree new clo?s ( ,ra9s 7,r5nes 9 ,brittany7 71 9 #acbg1 9 use = ! high alt> 9 ,exet] ca!dral1 & _m alt> clo?s ( ,p>is l954 ,9 ! poem ( ! #8,squire ( l[ degree' ! lady is told ,y\r blankettes %al be ( fu/yane1 ,y\r %etes %al be ( clo?s ( rayne2 &1 9 #adcd1 lady ,b]gav5ny devises 9 h] w 8two pair %eets ( ,raynes1 a pair ( fu/ians10 etc4 ,cologne1 ! que5 ( ! ,rh9e1 became fam\s dur+ ! :ole ( ! fifte5? & "p ( ! sixte5? c5tury = a c]ta9 k9d ( ecclesia/ical textile :i*1 f ! v g5]al use to :i* x has be5 appli$1 we may call 8orphrey web40 ,! productions ( ,cologne1 h[ev]1 are e way f> bel[ 9 beauty ! simil> works ( ,italy4 ,italian orphrey-webs are g5]ally work$ 9 gold or yell[ silk ^u a crimson gr\nd ( silk4 ,flor5t9e are (t5 di/+ui%$ f ! ,v5etian by ! introduction ( :ite = ! faces2 ^? ( ,cologne v>y f bo? by introduc+ blue1 :ile ! mat]ial is almo/ always poor & ! weav+ co>se4 ,9 ,engl& ?is orphrey web 0 9 *ur* use & call$1 z we le>n f ! ,york 8wills & te/am5ts10 8rebayn de ,colayn40 ,! piece ( ,g]man nap]y1 no4 #hcag 7( ! beg9n+ ( ! fifte5? c5tury71 w be to ^? curi\s ab\t h\sehold l95 an acceptable specim54 ,if 9 "s old inv5tory ( *ur* ve/m5ts we f9d an entry m5tion+ a *asuble made ( clo? ( ,cologne1 we %\ld und]/& x to mean n a c]ta9 broad textile wov5 !re1 b m]ely a ve/m5t compos$ ( sev]al pieces ( ?is k9d ( web sew$ toge!r2 l ! frontal made ( pieces ( wov5 ,v5ice orphreys1 no4 #higf4 ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,! c\ntries :5ce silks came to ,engl& are num]\s2 we f9d e>ly notices ( ,antio*1 ,t>sus1 ,alex&ria1 ,damascus1 ,byzantium1 ,cyprus1 ,trip or ,tripoli1 & ,bagdad1 & lat] ( ,v5ice1 ,g5oa1 & ,lucca4 ,to fix ! localities ( o!rs w\ld be b guess "w4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ! f\rte5? c5tury a silk call$ 8,acca0 is occasionally m5tion$3 &1 f ! description1 x mu/ h be5 a clo? ( gold %ot ) col\r$ silk1 figur$ ) animals3 ,william de ,cl9ton1 e>l ( ,hunt+don1 gave to ,/4 ,alban's mona/]y a :ole ve/m5t ( clo? ( gold %ot ) sky-blue & call$ clo? ( ,acca4 ,x w\ld look z if ?is /uff took its "n f hav+ be5 br\ght to u ?r\gh ! port ( ,acre3 & ,macri1 9 8 valuable ,hi]olexicon1 says t ! "n ( ! anci5t ,ptolemais 9 ,syria 0 s writt54 ,:at 9 "o age & at a p>ticul> place happ5$ to be well made & !re=e 0 eag]ly s\ght =1 at a lat] p]iod & 9 ano!r place 0 bett] wr\ght & at a l[] price4 ,"t1 inde$1 *ang$ ! "n ( ! m>ket1 b did n alt] 9 any great degree ei!r ! quality ( ! mat]ial or ! /yle ( ! design wr\ght ^u x4 ,?r\gh\t ! k+dom ( ! ,byzant9e ,greeks ! loom _h to *ange its ge>+ v little4 ,! ,s>ac5ic loom1 :e!r 9 ,asia1 ,africa1 or ,spa91 0 always ,arabic1 ?\gh ,p]sia c\ld n =get h] old traditions ab\t ! 8hom0 or tree ( life1 & *eetahs1 & birds ( v>i\s sorts4 ,) reg>d to ! :ole ( ,asia1 its _m peoples f ! e>lie/ ages knew h[ n only to weave clo? ( gold b to figure x ) birds & bea/s4 ,9 lat] times1 ,m>co ,polo 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury f\nd exactly ! same k9ds ( textile kn[n 9 ! days ( ,d>ius /ill ev]y:]e1 f ! %ores ( ! ,m$it]ranean to ! f> ea/4 ,:at he says ( ,bagdad he repeats 9 few] words ab\t _m o!r cities4 ,9 f9d+ _! way to ,engl& ^! fabrics receiv$1 if n 9 all at lea/ 9 mo/ in/ances1 ! names ( ! seaports 9 ! ,m$it]ranean :]e !y _h be5 %ipp$4 ,= beautifully wr\ght & figur$ silk1 "o ( ! few t]ms t /ill outlive ! m$ival p]iod is ,damask4 ,*9a1 no d\bt1 0 ! fir/ c\ntry to ornam5t its silk5 webs ) a patt]n4 ,india1 ,p]sia1 & ,syria1 !n ,byzant9e ,greece1 foll[$1 b at long int]vals betwe51 9 ,*9a's foot/eps4 ,/uffs s figur$ br\ght ) !m to ! we/ ! "n 8diaspron0 or diap]1 be/[$ ^u !m at ,con/ant9ople4 ,b ab\t ! twelf? c5tury ! city ( ,damascus1 ev5 !n long celebrat$ = its looms1 s f> out/ripp$ all o!r places = beauty ( design t h] silk5 textiles 7 9 dem& ev]y:]e2 & ?us1 z (t5 happ5s1 trad]s fa/5$ ! "n ( ,damasc5 or ,damask ^u e silk5 fabric ri*ly wr\ght & curi\sly design$1 no matt] :e!r x came or n f ,damascus4 ,at la/1 samit1 hav+ long be5 ! epi!t betok5+ all t 0 ri* & good 9 silk1 0 =gott51 & diap]1 f be+ ! v ^w significant ( patt]n1 became a second>y t]m descriptive ( m]ely a "p 9 ! elaborate design on damask4 ,baudek91 t sort ( co/ly clo? ( gold spok5 ( s mu* dur+ s _m ye>s 9 ,engli% lit]ature1 took 7z 0 said be=e7 its fam\s "n f ,bagdad4 ,_m specim5s ( baudek9 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton collection furni% pro(s ( ! anci5t weav]s' dext]ity 9 _! managem5t ( ! loom1 & especially ( ! arti/s' ta/e 9 sett+ out _! intricate & beautiful designs4 ,an id5tification betwe5 v _m samples !re br\ght toge!r ( anci5t textiles 9 silk & ! descriptions ( simil> /uffs giv5 u 9 ^? valuable records1 our old *ur* inv5tories1 might be c>ri$ on if necess>y to a v l5g!n$ ext5t4 ,dorneck 0 ! "n giv5 to an inf]ior k9d ( damask wr\ght ( silk1 wool1 l95 ?read & gold1 9 ,fl&]s4 ,?is 0 manufactur$ t[>ds ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury mo/ly at ,t\rnay2 :i* city 9 ,flemi% 0 (t5 call$ ,dorneck--a ^w v>i\sly spelt z ,d>nec1 ,d>nak1 ,d>nick1 & sometimes ev5 ,d>ness4 ,! guild ( ! bless$ ,virg9 at ,bo/on _h a c>e clo? ( 8silke dornex0 & *ur* furniture4 ,! 8c>e clo?0 0 a sort ( canopy held ov] ! bride & bridegroom z !y knelt = ! nuptial bless+1 accord+ to ! ,salisbury rite1 at ! m>riage mass4 ,at ,exet] dorneck 0 us$ 9 *asubles = orphreys4 ,a specim5 ( dorneck may be se51 no4 #gjeh4 ,x is sev]al times m5tion$ 9 ! ,york fabric rolls4 ,buckram1 s call$ f ,bokk>a :]e x 0 orig9ally made1 9 ! middle ages 0 mu* e/eem$ = be+ co/ly & v f9e2 & consequ5tly fit = use 9 *ur* ve/m5ts & = secul> p]sonal we>4 8,panus ,t>t>icus0 or ,t>t>y clo? is (t5 spok5 (4 ,john ,gr&ison1 bi%op ( ,exet] 9 #acbg1 gave to 8 ca!dral flags ( :ite & r$ buckram2 & among ! five v ri* veils = cov]+ ! moveable lect]n 9 t *ur* ?ree 7 l9$ ) blue 8bok]am40 ,z late z ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury ?is /uff 0 held good en\gh = l9+ to a black velvet g[n = a que51 ,elizabe? ( ,york4 ,! co>se ?ick fabric :i* n[ goes by ! "n is v diff]5t f ! old] production kn[n z 8bok]am40 ,burdalisaund]1 ,bordalisaund]1 ,b\rde de ,elis&re1 ) o!r v>ieties 9 spell+1 is a t]m (t5 to be met ) 9 old wills & *ur* inv5tories4 ,9 ! ye> #acbg ,exet] _h a *asuble ( ,b\rde de ,elis&re ( div]s col\rs3 & f ! ,york%ire wills we f9d t sometimes x 0 wide en\gh = half a piece to =m ! adornm5t ( a high alt>4 8,bord0 9 ,arabic means a /rip$ clo?2 & we "k1 bo? f travell]s & ! importation ( ! textile itself1 t _m tribes 9 nor? & ea/]n ,africa weave /uffs = p]sonal we> ( a patt]n consi/+ ( :ite & black longitud9al /ripes4 ,/4 ,augu/91 liv+ 9 nor? ,africa ne> ! mod]n ,algi]s1 speaks ( a /uff = clo?+ call$ 8burda0 9 ! end ( ! f\r? & beg9n+ ( ! fif? c5tury4 ,x is n impossible t ! curta9s = ! tab]nacle z well z ! girdles = ,a>on & 8 sons1 ( f9e l95 & violet & purple & sc>let twice dy$1 7 wr\ght ) ?is v patt]n1 s t 9 ! 8burd ,alisaund]0 we behold ! olde/ kn[n design = any textile4 ,?is /uff 9 ! middle ages 0 a silk5 web 9 diff]5t col\r$ /ripes1 & specim5s also may be f\nd at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,?\gh made 9 _m places r\nd ! ,m$it]ranean ?is silk took its "n1 at lea/ 9 ,engl&1 f ,alex&ria4 ,fu/ian1 ( :i* we /ill h two =ms 9 velvete5 & corduroy1 0 orig9ally wove at ,fu/at on ! ,nile1 ) a w>p ( l95 ?read & a wo( ( ?ick cotton1 s twill$ & cut t x %[$ on "o side a ?ick b l[ pile2 & ! web ?us manag$ took its "n ( ,fu/ian f t ,egyptian city4 ,at :at p]iod x 0 inv5t$ we d n rightly "k1 b we are well aw>e x mu/ h be5 br\ght v e>ly to ?is c\ntry2 = our c\ntryman ,/4 ,/eph5 ,h>d+1 :5 a ,ci/]cian abbot & an old man ab\t ! ye> #aaad1 =bade *asubles 9 8 *ur* to be made ( any?+ b fu/ian or pla9 l954 ,! au/]ity ( 8 rule rea*$ ev5 ! ornam5ts ( ! *ur*4 ,f su* a prohibition we are n to draw z a conclusion t fu/ian 0 at ! "t a mean mat]ial2 q ! contr>y1 al?\gh n spl5did x 0 a seemly textile4 ,ye>s aft]w>ds1 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 ,*auc] tells u ( 8 knight3-- ,( fu/ian he w]$ a gepon4 ,9 ! fifte5? c5tury ,naples _h a repute = weav+ fu/ians2 & our ,engli% *ur*w>d5s1 n be+ le>n$ 9 geography or spell+1 made "s odd mi/akes 9 _! acc\nts ab\t ?is z ab\t "s o!r cont95tal /uffs3 8,fus*an 9 appules0 = fu/ian f ,naples is droll2 yet droll] /ill is 8mu/yrd devells10 = a clo? made 9 ,france at a t[n call$ ,mu/revilli]s4 ,musl91 z x is n[ ?r\gh\t ! _w s f ! e>lie/ antiquity1 has be5 ev]y:]e 9 ,asia 9 fav\rite use bo? z an article ( dress & z furniture4 ,its cl\d-l ?9ness & its lightness 7 n ! only *>ms belong+ to ?is /uff3 x 0 e/eem$ equally z mu* = ! ta/e ) :i* /ripes ( gold _h be5 wov5 9 its w>p4 ,z we le>n f ! travels ( ,m>co ,polo1 ! fur!r all wayf>]s 9 ,asia w&]$ among ea/]n nations ! high] !y f\nd ! po9t ( excell5ce :i* _h be5 rea*$ 9 weav+ silk & gold into spl5did fabrics4 ,! silkworm liv$ & ?riv$ !re & ! cotton plant also 0 9 its home1 its bir?-place1 9 ^? regions4 ,l _m cities ( c5tral ,asia1 ,mosul _h e>n$ = itself a reputation ( old = ! beauty ( its gold-wr\ght silk5 textiles4 ,cotton grew all ar\nd 9 pl5ty2 ! inhabitants1 especially ! wom51 7 gift$ ) su* quick feel+ ( f+] t !y c\ld sp9 ?read f ?is cotton ( m ?an hair-l f95ess4 ,cotton ) !m took ! place ( silk 9 ! loom2 & gold 0 n =gott5 9 ! weav+4 ,_! "w1 n only because x 0 s mu* *eap] b f its own peculi> beauty & comel9ess1 won = itself a high place 9 common e/imation3 & ! "n ( ! t[n :]e x 0 wr\ght 9 su* p]fection 0 giv5 to x z its di/9ctive "n4 ,h5ce1 :e!r wove ) or )\t gold1 we call ?is cotton web musl91 f ! ,asiatic city ( ,mosul4 ,clo? ( ,are/e is ano!r t]m = wov5 /uffs1 to be f\nd 9 our old ,engli% de$s & inv5tories4 ,! fir/ "t we meet x is 9 an ord] giv51 #abdd1 by ,h5ry ! ?ird = f9d+ two clo?s ( ,are/e ) :i* two copes 7 to be made = royal *apels4 ,aga9 x comes a few ye>s lat] at ,/4 ,paul's1 :i* ca!dral ,a4 ,d4 #abie _h1 besides a dalmatic & tunicle ( ?is silk 8:ite silk ( ,are/e diap]$10 z _m z ?irty & m hang+s ( ! same texture4 ,f ! description ( ^! pieces we ga!r t ?is s-call$ clo? ( ,are/e mu/ h be5 bo? beautiful & ri*1 be+ = ! mo/ "p clo? ( gold figur$ elaborately2 "s ) lions & d\ble-head$ eagles1 o!rs1 = example1 ) ! dea? & burial ( our ,"l4 ,we are n dispos$ to agree ) ! sugge/ion t ?is clo? 0 a k9d ( arras4 ,arras _h n won = itself a reputation = its tape/ry be=e ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,tape/ry itself is too ?ick & heavy = use 9 ve/m5ts2 yet ?is clo? ( ,are/e 0 light en\gh = tunicles1 & :5 worn out 0 sometimes condemn$ at ,/4 ,paul's to be put aside = l9+ o!r ritual g>m5ts4 ,among ! ?ree mean+s = ! m$ival 8,are/a0 "o is any k9d ( cov]+4 ,x seems1 !re=e1 probable t ^! clo?s ( ,are/e took _! "n n f ! place :]e !y _h be5 wov51 b f ! use to :i* !y 7 g5]ally put2 namely1 = hang+s ab\t *ur*es4 ,moreov]1 tape/ry or ,arras "w1 be+ ?ick & heavy1 c\ld nev] h be5 employ$ = su* light use z t ( app>els nor w\ld x h be5 diap]$ l silk1 yet we f9d 8,are/e0 to h be5 s fa%ion$ & s us$4 ,silks also 7 di/+ui%$ ?r\gh _! col\rs & %ades ( col\rs3 & ! m5 :o drew up ! m$ival inv5tories seem to h be5 gift$ ) a ke5 eye = v>ieties ( %ades & t9ts4 ,= in/ance1 a *asuble at ,/4 ,paul's is set d[n1 late 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 z made ( samit dy$ 9 a purple some:at bord]+ on a blood-r$ tone4 ,t>sus col\r is (t5 m5tion$3 & x 01 probably1 "s %ade ( purple4 ,! p ( ,t>sus no d\bt got f _! murex1 a %ell-fi% ( ! class mollusca & purpurif]a family to be f\nd on _! coa/1 _! dye+ matt]2 & :5 we rememb] :at *anges are wr\ght 9 ! animal itself by ! food x eats1 & :at /rong effects are made by slight v>iations 9 climate1 ev5 atmosph]e1 ^u mat]ials = col\r+ 9 ! mom5t ( application1 we may easily und]/& h[ ! diff]5ce arose betwe5 ! two t9ts ( purple4 8,clo? ( ,t>sus0 itself 0 ( a r>e & co/ly k9d1 ( f9e goats' hair & silk4 ,! t9t 0 "s %ade ( royal purple4 ,*auc] tells u t ,! great ,emetrius1 ! k+ ( ,inde1 ,^u a /$e bay1 trapp$ 9 /ele1 ,cov]$ ) clo? ( gold diapr$ wele1 ,came rid+ l ! god ( armes ,m>s4 ,8 cote armure 0 ( a clo? ( ,t>s1 ,c\*$ ) p]les1 etc4 ,o!r cities besides ,t>sus gave _! names to v>i\s %ades ( purple2 accord+ z !y 7 dy$ at ,antio*1 ,alex&ria1 or ,naples4 ,ea* place _h a p>ticul> %ade :i* di/+ui%$ x f ! o!rs4 ,x is n n[ possible to asc]ta9 :at 7 ! exact di/9ctions ( t9t4 ,sky-blue 0 a col\r ev]y:]e 9 *ur* use = c]ta9 fe/ivals ?r\gh\t ,engl&4 ,9 ! e>ly inv5tories ! "n = t t9t is 8,indicus10 8,indus10 rem9d+ u ( our pres5t indigo4 ,9 lat] li/s x is call$ 8,blodius10 n sangu9>y b blue4 ,murrey1 or a r$di% br[n1 is also (t5 specifi$4 ,silks wov5 ( two col\rs1 s t "o ( !m %[$ itself unmix$ & q di/9ct on "o side1 & ! second appe>$ equally cle> on ! o!r--a ?+ sometimes n[ look$ ^u z a wond] 9 mod]n weav+--might occasionally be met ) "h at ! m$ival p]iod3 ,exet] ca!dral _h1 9 #acbg1 a silk clo? 8( r$ col\r inside & yell[ outside40 ,at ,york1 9 #aedc1 !re 0 8a ve/m5t ( *angeable silke10 8besides "o ( *angeable taffety = ,good ,friday40 ,m>ble silk _h a weft ( sev]al col\rs s wov5 z to make ! :ole web look l m>ble1 /a9$ ) a v>iety ( t9ts4 ,!re 7 _m su* ve/m5ts 9 old ,/4 ,paul's4 ,dur+ full ?ree c5turies ?is m>ble silk f\nd great fav\r among u2 = ,h5ry ,ma*yn1 9 8 curi\s di>y1 tells u h[ 8! old qwyne ( ,s*ottes rod ?rught ,london10 & h[ 8!n cam ! "l tresor] ) a ,c4 gret horsse & !r cotes ( m>bull10 etc41 to meet h] ! #f? ( ,novemb]1 #aeea4 ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,we mu/ n[ speak ( embroid]y4 ,! art ( work+ ) ! ne$le fl[]s1 fruits1 human & animal =ms1 or any fanciful design1 ^u webs wov5 ( silk1 l951 cotton1 wool1 hemp1 besides o!r k9ds ( /uff1 is ( ! highe/ antiquity4 ,^? patt]ns1 aft] s _m fa%ions1 :i* we see figur$ ^u ! g>m5ts worn by m5 & wom5 on ,egyptian & ,assyrian monum5ts1 b especially on ! burn$-clay vases made & pa9t$ by ! ,greeks 9 _! e>lie/ z well z 9 lat] times1 or :i* we read ab\t 9 ! writ+s ( t p1 7 n wr\ght 9 ! loom1 b work$ by ! ne$le4 ,! old ,egyptian loom--& t ( ! ,jews mu/ h be5 l x--01 z we "k f pa9t+s1 ( ! simple/ %ape1 & seems to h be5 able to d little m div]sifi$ 9 design ?an /raight l9es 9 diff]5t col\rs2 & at be/ no?+ high] 9 execution ?an *eck]-"w3 beyond ?is1 all 0 put 9 by h& ) ! ne$le4 ,9 ,p>is1 at ! ,l\vre1 are sev]al pieces ( e>ly ,egyptian webs col\r$1 draw+s ( :i* h be5 publi%$ by ,sir ,g>dn] ,wilk9son 9 8 "w #8,! ,egyptians 9 ! "t ( ! ,ph>aohs4' ,!re are two pieces wr\ght up & d[n ) ne$lework2 ! second piece ( blue is figur$ all ov] 9 :ite embroid]y ) a patt]n ( nett+1 ! me%es ( :i* %ut 9 irregul> cubic %apes1 & 9 ! l9es ( ! reticulation ! my/ic 8fylfot0 is se54 ,sir ,j4 ,g4 ,wilk9son says ( !m3 8,!y are mo/ly cotton1 &1 ?\gh _! date is unc]ta91 !y suffice to %[ t ! manufacture 0 ,egyptian2 & ! _m dresses pa9t$ on ! monum5ts ( ! eighte5? dyna/y %[ t ! mo/ v>i$ patt]ns 7 us$ by ! ,egyptians m ?an #cjjj ye>s ago1 z !y 7 at a lat] p]iod by ! ,babylonians1 :o became not$ = _! ne$lework40 ,x is cle> f ! book ( ,exodus t ! ,israelites f v e>ly times1 hav+ le>nt ! art 9 ,egypt1 embroid]$ _! g>m5ts2 al?\gh ! ^w 8embroid]y0 :i* occurs s frequ5tly 9 e ,engli% v]sion probably sometimes means m]ely weav+ 9 /ripes1 & n "w ) ! ne$le4 ,! embroid]+ also ( ! sails ( vessels 0 n uncommon 9 ! ea/2 boats us$ 9 sacr$ fe/ivals on ! ,nile 7 s decorat$2 & ! prophet ,ezekiel says to ! p ( ,tyre1 8,f9e l95 ) broid]$ "w f ,egypt1 0 t :i* ?\ spreade/ =? to be ?y sail40 ,! read] w "h also rememb] ,%akspe>e's description ( ! b>ge ( ,cleopatra2 ,! b>ge %e sat 91 l a burni%$ ?rone ,burn$ on ! wat]3 ,purple ! sails1 & s p]fum$1 t ,! w9ds 7 love-sick ) !m2 %e did lie ,9 h] pavilion1 clo? ( gold1 ( tissue1 etc4 ,pl9y says t ! ,phrygians inv5t$ embroid]y1 & t g>m5ts s ornam5t$ 7 call$ ,phrygionic4 ,( su* a fa%ion 7 8! art-wr\ght ve/s ( spl5did purple t9t0 br\ght =? by ,dido1 & ! cloak giv5 by ,&roma*e to ,ascanius4 ,h5ce1 an embroid]] 0 call$ 9 ,lat9 8,phrygio10 & ne$lework 8,phrygium0 or 8,phrygian0 "w4 ,:5 ! design1 z (t5 happ5$1 0 wr\ght 9 solid gold wire or gold5 ?read1 ! embroid]y s work$ 0 nam$ 8auriphrygium40 ,f ?is t]m comes ! old ,engli% ^w 8orphrey40 ,:ile ,phrygia 9 g5]al1 ,babylon 9 p>ticul> 7z ,pl9y also tells u7 became celebrat$ = ! beauty ( its embroid]ies4 ,all :o h se5 ! sculptures 9 ! ,briti% museum br\ght f ,n9eveh1 & describ$ & figur$ by ,lay>d1 mu/ h rem>k$ h[ lavi%ly ! ,assyrians adorn$ _! robes ) ! ne$lework = :i* "o ( _! greate/ cities 0 s fam\s4 ,up to ! fir/ c5tury ( our era ! reputation :i* ,babylon _h won = h] textiles & ne$lework /ill liv$4 ,we "k f ,josephus1 :o _h (t5 be5 to wor%ip at ,j]usalem1 t ! veils ( ! ,temple 7 ,babylonian2 & ( ! out] "o t writ] says3 8!re 0 a veil ( equal l>g5ess ) ! door4 ,x 0 a ,babylonian curta91 embroid]$ ) blue & f9e l951 & sc>let & purple1 & ( a texture t 0 wond]ful40 ,:at ! ,jews did = ! ,temple we may be sure 0 done by ,*ri/ians = ! ,*ur*4 ,! fai?ful1 h[ev]1 w5t ev5 fur!r1 & wore g>m5ts figur$ all ov] ) sacr$ subjects 9 embroid]y4 ,we le>n ?is f a /irr+ s]mon prea*$ by ,/4 ,a/]ius1 bi%op ( ,amasia 9 ,pontus1 9 ! f\r? c5tury4 ,tak+ = 8 text 8a c]ta9 ri* man :o 0 clo!d 9 purple & f9e l950 he upbraids ! _w = its follies 9 dress1 & compla9s t "s p w5t ab\t array$ l pa9t$ walls1 ) bea/s & fl[]s all ov] !m2 :ile o!rs1 pret5d+ a m s]i\s tone ( ?\ght1 dress$ 9 clo!s depict+ ! do+s & wond]s ( our ,"l4 8,/rive10 ,/4 ,a/]ius exhorts !m1 8to foll[ 9 y\r lives ! tea*+s ( ! ,gospel1 r ?an h ! miracles ( our ,r$eem] embroid]$ ^u y\r outw>d dress40 ,to h _h s _m subjects %[n ^u "o g>m5t x is cle> t ea* mu/ h be5 done v small1 & wr\ght 9 outl9e2 a /yle :i* is be+ br\ght back1 ) great effect1 into mod]n ecclesia/ical use4 ,! discrim9at+ accuracy ) :i* our old writ]s not$ ! sev]al k9ds ( textile gifts be/[$ ^u a *ur* is z in/ructive z praisewor?y4 ,+ulph did n ?9k x en\gh to say t abbot ,egelric _h giv5 _m hang+s to ! *ur* at ,croyl&1 ! great numb] ( :i* 7 silk51 b he expla9s also t "s 7 ornam5t$ ) birds wr\ght 9 gold & sew$ on2 9 fact1 ( cut-"w2 o!rs ) ^? birds wov5 into ! /uff2 o!rs q pla94 ,we f9d ! same c>e tak5 9 old inv5tories4 ,by ! latt] end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury embroid]y obta9$ = its sev]al /yles & v>i\s sorts ( ornam5tation a di/+ui%+ & te*nical nom5clature4 ,"o ( ! e>lie/ docum5ts 9 :i* we meet ) ?is set ( t]ms is ! inv5tory drawn up1 9 #abie1 ( ! ve/m5ts belong+ to ,/4 ,paul's ca!dral1 pr9t$ by ,dugdale3 h]e91 ! 8opus plum>ium10 ! 8opus pect9eum10 ! 8opus pulv9>ium10 8consutum de s]ico10 8de s]ico consuto10 may be sev]ally f\nd4 8,opus plum>ium0 0 ! !n usual t]m = :at is n[ commonly call$ embroid]y2 & 0 giv5 to ne$lework ( ?is k9d because ! /it*es 7 laid d[n longwise & n across3 t is1 s put toge!r t !y seem$ to ov]lap "o ano!r l ! fea!rs 9 ! plumage ( a bird4 ,?is /yle 0 aptly call$ 8fea!r-/it*0 "w1 9 contradi/9ction to t done 9 cross & t5t /it*1 or ! 8cu%ion-/yle40 ,! 8opus pulv9>ium10 or 8cu%ion-/yle10 0 l ! mod]n s-call$ ,b]l9 "w4 ,z n[1 s !n x 0 done 9 ! same /it*+ ) pretty mu* ! same mat]ials & g5]ally1 if n always1 put to ! same purpose2 = cu%ions1 to sit or to kneel ^u 9 *ur* or to uphold ! mass-book at ! alt>2 h5ce its "n ( 8cu%ion-/yle40 ,9 work+ x silk5 ?read is kn[n to h be5 (t5 us$4 ,among o!r specim5s1 & 9 silk1 !re is a beautiful cu%ion ( a date correspond+ to ! ,london inv5tory at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 no4 #acbd4 ,be+ well adapt$ = work+ h]aldry ?is /it* has be5 us$ f an e>ly p]iod = ! purpose2 & emblazon$ orphreys1 l ! n>r[ hem on ! ,syon cope1 7 wr\ght 9 x4 ,! 8opus pect9eum0 0 a k9d ( wov5 "w imitative ( embroid]y1 & employ$ to supply x4 ,john ,g>l&1 9 8 diction>y1 expla9s t x 0 made by means ( a comb1 or "s comb-l in/rum5t3 & f ?is ! "w itself receiv$ ! di/9ctive appellation ( 8pect9eum10 or comb-wr\ght4 ,be=e ,john ,g>l& left ,engl& = ,france1 to tea* a s*ool !re1 he mu/ h (t5 se5 8 c\ntrywom5 at su* an occupation2 & ! amice giv5 by ,ka!r9e ,lovell to ,/4 ,paul's1 8de op]e pect9eo10 may p]haps h be5 ! "w ( h] own h&s4 ,wom5 9 ! middle ages 7 s ready at ! ne$le t !y c\ld make _! embroid]y look z if x _h be5 done 9 ! loom1 really wov54 ,a %r$ ( crimson c5dal figur$ 9 gold & silv] ?read ) a knight on horseback1 arm$ z ( ! latt] "t ( ,edw>d ! fir/1 0 %[n to u "s "t ago4 ,at fir/ sight ! m\nt$ w>rior seem$ to h be5 n h&-work$ b wov52 s flat1 s ev5 0 e ?read4 ,look+ at x h[ev] ?r\gh a glass & turn+ x ab\t1 we f\nd x to h be5 embroid]$ by ! f+] 9 su* a way t ! /it*es laid d[n ^u ! surface 7 c>ri$ ?r\gh into ! canvas l9+ at ! back ( ! ?9 silk4 ,9 ?is same mann] all ! design1 bo? be=e & beh9d1 ^u ! f9e ,engli%-wr\ght *asuble at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 no4 #fgc1 0 probably work$4 ,at ! latt] end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury our c\ntrywom5 inv5t$ a new way ( embroid]y4 ,)\t giv+ up altoge!r ! old 8opus plum>ium0 or fea!r-/it*1 !y mix$ x ) a new /yle1 bo? ( ne$lework & me*anism4 ,s beautiful 0 ! novel me?od deem$ abroad t x won = itself ! complim5t>y appellation ( 8opus ,anglicum10 or ,engli% "w4 ,9 :at its peculi>ity consi/$ has long be5 a "q & a puzzle among =eign ar*ological writ]s2 & a liv+ "o ( em95ce1 ,m4 ,vois91 notic+ a cope ( ,engli% "w giv5 to ! *ur* ( ,t\rnai1 says3 8,il s]ait curieux de savoir quelle brod]ie ou quel tissu on designait s\s le nom de opus ,anglicum40 ,b if we exam9e t v f9e piece ( ,engli% ne$lework1 ! ,syon cope1 at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 no4 #iahb1 we f9d t ! fir/ /it*es = ! human face 7 begun 9 ! c5tre ( ! *eek1 & work$ 9 circul> l9es2 fall+ 7aft] ! fur!r side _h be5 made7 into /raight l9es1 :i* 7 s c>ri$ on ?r\gh ! re/ ( ! fle%es2 9 "s in/ances1 also1 ?r\gh ! drap]ies4 ,b ?is 0 done 9 a sort ( *a9-/it*1 & a newly practis$ me*anical appliance 0 br\ght into use4 ,aft] ! :ole figure _h ?us be5 wr\ght ) ?is k9d ( *a9-/it* 9 circles & /raight l9es1 !n ) a little ?9 iron rod end+ 9 a small bulb or smoo? knob slightly heat$1 ^? middle spots 9 ! faces t _h be5 work$ 9 circul> l9es 7 press$ d[n2 & ! deep wide dimples 9 ! ?roat1 especially ( ag$ p]sons4 ,by ! holl[s ?us la/+ly sunk a play ( light & %ad[ is br\ght out1 :i* at a %ort di/ance l5ds to ! portion s treat$ ! appe>ance ( l[ relief4 ,*a9-/it*1 !n1 work$ 9 circul> l9es & relief giv5 to p>ts by holl[s sunk into ! faces & o!r portions ( ! p]sons1 con/itute ! elem5ts ( ! 8opus ,anglicum10 or embroid]y aft] ! ,engli% mann]4 ,h[ ! *a9-/it* 0 work$ into circles = ! faces1 & /raight l9es = ! re/ ( ! figures1 is well %[n by a woodcut1 aft] a portion ( ! ,/eeple ,a/on embroid]ies1 giv5 9 ! ar*ological j\rnal1 vol iv4 p4 #bhe4 ,al?\gh n m]ely ! faces & ! extremities b ! dresses also ( ! p]sons figur$ 7 g5]ally wr\ght 9 *a9-/it*1 & aft]w>ds treat$ z we h j describ$1 ano!r practice 0 to "w ! drap]ies 9 fea!r-/it*1 :i* 0 also employ$ = ! gr\nd+1 & diap]$ aft] a simple1 zigzag design2 z we f9d 9 ! ,syon cope4 ,illu/ration3 ,"p ( ! orphrey ( ! ,syon cope4 ,h[ highly ,engli% embroid]ies 7 at "o p]iod appreciat$ by =eign]s may be ga!r$ f ! especial notice tak5 ( !m abroad2 z we may f9d 9 cont95tal docum5ts4 ,matilda1 que5 ( ,william ! conqu]or1 c>ri$ away f ! abbey ( ,ab+don its ri*e/ ve/m5ts1 & w\ld n be put (f ) inf]ior ones4 ,9 8 w ,a4 ,d4 #acfj c>d9al ,talair&1 bi%op ( ,albano1 speaks ( ! ,engli% embroid]ies on a co/ly set ( :ite ve/m5ts4 ,a bi%op ( ,t\rnai1 9 #acdc1 bequea!d to t ca!dral an old ,engli% cope1 z well z a beautiful corporal 8( ,engli% "w40 ,among ! copes res]v$ = prelates' use 9 ! *apel ( ,*>les duke ( ,b\rgogne1 bro!r-9-law to ,john duke ( ,b$=d1 !re 0 "o ( ,engli% "w v elaborately fraught ) _m figures1 z appe>s f ?is description ( x3 8une *appe de brodeure d'or1 faon d',englet]re1 plusieurs hi/oires de ,n4,d4 et anges et autres ymages1 e/ans en laceures escriptes1 g>nie d'un orfroir d'icelle faon fait apo/res1 desquelles les manteulx sont t\s c\v]tes de p]les1 et leur diadesmes p\rphil] de p]les1 e/ans en manire de tab]nacles1 faits de deux arbres1 dont les tiges sont t\ts c\v]tes de p]les1 et la dite *appe y a une bille des dites armes1 g>nie de p]les comme la dessus dicte40 ,:ile s covet$ abroad1 our ,engli% embroid]y 0 highly priz$ & well paid = at home4 ,we f9d 9 ! ,issue ,rolls t ,h5ry ! ?ird _h a *asuble embroid]$ by ,mabilia ( ,bury ,/4 ,edmund's2 & t ,edw>d ! second paid a hundr$ m>ks to ,rose ! wife ( ,john de ,bure=d1 a citiz5 & m]c] ( ,london1 = a *oir-cope ( h] embroid]+1 & :i* 0 to be s5t to ! ,pope z an (f]+ f ! que54 ,engli% embroid]y aft]w>ds lo/ its fir/ high reputation4 ,?r\gh ^? ye>s wa/$ ) ! w>s ( ! ,roses ! "w ( ! ,engli% ne$le 0 v poor1 v co>se1 &1 s to say1 ragg$2 z1 = in/ance1 ! *asuble at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 no4 #djde4 ,no?+ ( ! celebrat$ *a9-/it* ) dimpl$ faces 9 ! figures c be f\nd ab\t x3 e "p is work$ 9 ! fea!r-/it*1 slov5ly put d[n4 ,dur+ ! e>ly "p ( ! sev5te5? c5tury our embroid]]s aga9 /ruck out a new /yle1 :i* consi/$ 9 ?r[+ up ! figures a good height above ! gr\nd+4 ,( ?is rais$ "w !re is a f9e specim5 9 ! f\r? ( ! copes pres]v$ 9 ! *apt] libr>y at ,durham4 ,x is said to h be5 wr\ght = & giv5 by ,*>les ! fir/ to t ca!dral4 ,?is r$ silk ve/m5t is well spr9kl$ ) bodiless *]ubic heads cr[n$ ) rays & borne up by w+s2 :ile ^u ! hood is ,david1 hold+ 9 "o h& ! head ( ,goliah2 ! :ole done 9 highly rais$ embroid]y4 ,bibles ( ! l>ge folio size1 cov]$ 9 ri* silk or sat9 & embroid]$ ) ! royal arms done 9 bold rais$-"w1 are /ill to be f\nd 9 our libr>ies4 ,m ?an "o ( ^! volumes is said to h be5 a gift f ! k+ to a =efa!r ( ! pres5t own]4 ,?is /yle ( rais$ embroid]y rema9$ 9 use = _m ye>s4 ,n only l>ge ,bibles b small] volumes1 especially pray]-books1 _h b9d+s enri*$ ) x4 ,g5]ally su* examples are attribut$1 & 9 mo/ cases wrongly1 to ! s-call$ nuns ( ,little ,gidd+4 ,! same k9d ( "w is sometimes f\nd on ! broad frames ( old look+-glasses3 sett+ =? p]haps1 z 9 ! specim5 no4 #hib1 ! /ory ( ,ahasu]us & ,e/h]1 or a passage 9 "s c\rt%ip c>ri$ on aft] ! mann]s ( ,arcadia4 ,few p at ! pres5t day h a j idea ( ! lab\r1 ! money1 & ! l5g? ( "t (t5 be/[$ ( old ^u embroid]ies1 :i* _h be5 sket*$ z well z wr\ght by ! h&s ( m51 ea* 9 8 own craft ! able/ & mo/ cunn+ ( 8 "t4 ,9 behalf ( ,engl& pl5ty ( evid5ce has be5 produc$ already3 z a pro( ( ! same lab\r else:]e a rem>kable passage may be quot$1 giv51 9 8 life ( ,antonio ,pollaiuolo1 by ,vas>i3 8,= ,san ,giovanni 9 ,flor5ce !re 7 made c]ta9 v ri* ve/m5ts aft] ! design ( ?is ma/]1 all ( gold-wove velvet ) pile ^u pile 7di broccato riccio sopra riccio71 ea* wov5 ( "o entire piece & )\t seam1 embroid]$ ) ! mo/ subtile ma/]y ( t art by ,paolo da ,v]ona1 a man mo/ em95t ( 8 call+1 & ( incomp>able +5uity4 ,?is "w took tw5ty-six ye>s = its completion1 be+ :olly 9 close /it* 7que/i ricami fatti con punto s]rato72 b ! excell5t me?od ( :i* is n[ all b lo/1 ! cu/om be+ 9 ^! days to make ! /it*es mu* wid] 7il punteggi>e piu l>go71 :]eby ! "w is r5d]$ less durable & mu* less pleas+ to ! eye40 ,^! ve/m5ts may yet be se5 fram$ & glaz$ 9 presses ar\nd ! sacri/y ( ,san ,giovanni4 ,antonio di$ 9 #adih4 ,! magnific5t cope be=e ref]r$ to1 n[ at ,/onyhur/1 is ( "o seamless piece ( gorge\s gold tissue figur$ ) bold wide-spread+ foliage 9 crimson velvet1 pile ^u pile1 & dott$ ) small gold spots2 probably x came f ! same loom t ?rew (f ^! fam\s ,san ,giovanni ve/m5ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,embroid]$ ,saddle-clo? ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,,*apt] ,,ix4 ,! old ,engli% 8opus consutum0 or cut-"w1 call$ 9 ,fr5* 8appliqu10 is a t]m ( r wide mean+1 z x takes 9 sev]al sorts ( decorative accompanim5ts to ne$lework4 ,:5 any?+--fl[]1 fruit1 or figure--is wr\ght by itself ^u a sep>ate piece ( silk or canvas & aft]w>ds sew$ on to ! ve/m5t = *ur* use1 or article = dome/ic purpose1 x comes to be kn[n z cut-"w4 ,?is k9d ( "w 0 employ$ = dresses & ve/m5ts2 b we f9d x mo/ commonly on b$-curta9s1 hang+s = rooms & halls1 & o!r items 9 h\sehold furniture4 ,( cut-"w 9 embroid]y ^? pieces ( spl5did ,rh5i% ne$lework ) ! blazonm5t ( ,cleves1 sew$ ^u a gr\nd ( crimson silk1 nos4 #aaid-e1 at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 & ! *asuble ( crimson d\ble-pile velvet1 no4 #gh1 are good examples4 ,9 ! la/1 ! ni*es 9 :i* ! sa9ts /& are loom-wr\ght1 b ^? p]sonages !mselves are exquisitely work$ on sep>ate pieces ( f9e canvas & aft]w>ds let into ! unwov5 spaces left op5 = !m4 ,a ,flor5t9e piece ( cut-"w1 no4 #eghh1 is alike rem>kable = its great beauty & ! skill %[n 9 br++ toge!r bo? weav+ & embroid]y4 ,mu* ( ! ar*itectural accessories is loom-wr\ght1 :ile ! extremities ( ! evangeli/s are all done by ! ne$le2 b ! head1 neck1 & long be>d are work$ by !mselves ^u v f9e l951 & aft]w>ds put toge!r 9 su* a way t ! full :ite be>d ov]laps ! tunic4 ,o!r me?ods gave a quick] help 9 ?is cut-"w4 ,= ! sake ( exp$ition all ! figures 7 sometimes at once %ap$ out ( wov5 silk1 sat91 velvet1 l951 or wooll5 clo? z want$1 & sew$ ^u ! gr\nd+ ( ! article3 ! features ( ! face & ! cont\rs ( ! body 7 !n wr\ght by ! ne$le 9 v n>r[ l9es done 9 br[n silk ?read4 ,at times1 ev5 ?is mu* ( embroid]y 0 set aside = ! pa9t+ bru%1 & in/ances are to be f\nd 9 :i* ! spaces left uncov]$ by ! loom = ! heads & extremities ( ! human figures are fill$ 9 ) ! bru%4 ,sometimes1 aga91 ! cut-"w done 9 ^! ways is fram$1 z x 71 ) an edg+1 ei!r 9 pla9 or gilt lea!r1 hemp51 or silk5 cord1 l ! lead+s ( a /a9$ glass w9d[4 ,p]haps 9 no collection op5 any:]e to public view c a piece ( cut-"w be f\nd s full ( tea*+ ab\t ! process ( ?is easy way ( execution z no4 #acgj at ,s\? ,k5s+ton3 & we e>ne/ly recomm5d ! att5tion ( our read]s to t example4 ,= ! inv5tion ( cut-"w1 or 8di commesso0 z ,vas>i calls x1 t writ] tells u we are indebt$ to "o ( 8 ,flor5t9e c\ntrym53 8,x 0 by ,s&ro ,botticelli t ! me?od ( prep>+ bann]s & /&>ds 9 :at is call$ cut-"w 0 inv5t$2 & ?is he did t ! col\rs might n s9k ?r\gh1 %[+ ! t9t ( ! clo? on ea* side4 ,! balda*9o ( ,orsanmi*ele is by ?is ma/]1 & is s treat$1 etc40 ,b ,vas>i is n correct3 ! piece j spok5 (1 no4 #acgj1 0 made half a c5tury be=e ,botticelli 0 born4 ,!re are o!r accessories 9 m$ival embroid]y :i* ought n to be ov]look$4 ,9 "s few in/ances1 gold & silv] gilt />-l fl[]s are to be f\nd sew$ ^u ! silks or amid ! embroid]y f ,v5ice & o!r prov9ces 9 ,italy1 & f s\!rn ,g]many4 ,"s fragm5ts ( silk damask1 no4 #hfab1 are curi\s examples ( ,italian ta/e4 ,^! at "o "t h be5 ?ickly /rew$ ) trefoils cut out ( gilt metal b v ?91 & n sew$ b glu$ on to ! silk3 _m ( ! leaves h fall5 (f1 & ^? rema9+ turn$ black4 ,preci\s /ones also1 coral1 & se$ pe>ls 7 sew$ ^u textiles2 &1 n uncommonly1 small col\r$ beads & bugles ( glass4 ,belong+ to ,/4 ,paul's1 9 #abie1 among _m o!r amices !re 0 "o hav+ glass /ones ^u x1 bo? l>ge & small4 ,ano!r =m ( glass fa/5$ by heat to gold & copp]1 enamel1 0 ext5sively employ$ z an adornm5t ^u textiles4 ,! gorge\s 8*esable ( r$ clo? ( gold ) orphreys be=e & beh9d set ) pe>ls1 blue1 :ite1 & r$1 ) plates ( gold enamell$1 want+ fifte5 plates1 etc410 describ$ 9 ,dugdale's ,mona/icon1 & giv5 by ,john ( ,gaunt's du*ess to ,l9coln ca!dral1 %[s h[ ?is ri* ornam5tation 0 appli$ to g>m5ts1 especially = *ur* use1 9 v l>ge quantities4 ,9 ,engl& ! old cu/om 0 to sew a great deal ( goldsmi?'s "w1 = enri*m5t1 ^u articles meant = p]sonal we>4 ,:5 our fir/ ,edw>d's grave 9 ,we/m9/] abbey 0 op5$ 9 #aggd !re 0 se5 ^u ! body1 besides o!r silk5 robes1 a /ole-l b& ( ri* :ite tissue ab\t ! neck & cross$ ^u ! brea/3 x 0 /udd$ ) gilt quatrefoils 9 filigree "w & embroid]$ ) pe>ls4 ,f ! knees d[nw>ds ! body 0 wrapp$ 9 a pall ( clo? ( gold4 ,h5ry ! ?ird gave a frontal to ! high alt> 9 ,we/m9/] abbey ^u :i*1 besides c>buncles 9 gold5 sett+s & sev]al l>ge pieces ( enamel1 7 z _m z #hff small] ones3 p]haps ! 8esmaux de plique0 ( ! ,fr5*4 ,9 ! ,norman-,fr5* silk5 /uffs ?us ornam5t$ 7 said to be 8batuz10 t is1 beat5 ) hamm]$-up gold4 ,! ,treasury cal5d>s1 edit$ by ,palgrave1 tell u t ,ri*>d ! second gave to ! *apel 9 ! ca/le ( ,hav]=d 8ii rydell batuz20 two alt>-curta9s beat5 7probably ) ornam5ts 9 gilt silv]2 l an amice s describ$ :i* belong$ to ,/4 ,paul's74 ,= ! secul> employm5t ( ?is same sort ( decoration we h sev]al curi\s examples4 ,ladies' dresses 7 s adorn$1 z we may see 9 ^! v]ses3 ,a coronell on hur h$d sett1 ,hur clo?ys wy? be/es & byrdes w] bete1 ,all ab[te = pryde4 ,illu/ration3 ,anci5t bann] ( ! city ( ,/rasburg3 see next page4 ,k+ ,john 9 #abae s5t an ord] 7extant 9 ! ,close rolls7 to ,reg9ald de ,cornhull & ,william ,cook to h made = him1 besides five tunics1 five bann]s ) 8 arms ^u !m1 well beat5 9 gold3 8b5e auro batuatas40 ,a v rem>kable example attribut$ to ! f\rte5? c5tury 8! bann] ( ,/rasb\rg0 0 pres]v$ !re until v lately1 :5 x 0 unhappily de/roy$ 9 ! bomb>dm5t ( t city 9 #ahgj4 ,dugdale 79 8 ,b>onage7 gives ! orig9al bill = fitt+ out "o ( ! %ips 9 :i* ,beau*amp e>l ( ,w>wick1 dur+ ! reign ( ,h5ry ! six?1 w5t ov] to ,france4 ,among o!r items are ^!3 8,f\r hundr$ p5cils 7long n>r[ /rips ( silk1 us$ z flags7 beat ) ! ragg$/aff 9 silv]2 ! o!r pavys 7"o ( two %ields probably ( wood1 & fa/5$ outside ! %ip at its b[s7 pa9t$ ) black1 & a ragg$/aff beat ) silv] occupy+ all ! field2 "o coat = my "l's body1 beat ) f9e gold2 two coats = h]alds1 beat ) demi gold2 a great /ream] = a %ip ( =ty ye>ds 9 l5g? & eight ye>ds 9 bread?1 ) a great be> & griff9 hold+ a ragg$/aff p\dr$ full ( ragg$/affs2 ?ree p5ons 7small flags7 ( satt52 sixte5 /&>ds ( wor/$ entail$ ) ! be> & a *a940 ,! quatrefoils on ! robe ( ,edw>d ! fir/1 ! silv] lions on ! ,gla/onbury cope1 ! bea/s & birds on ! lady's g[n1 ! be> & griff9 & ragg$/aff belong+ to ! ,beau*amp's blazon+1 & all simil> enri*m5ts put ^u silk5 /uffs1 7 cut out ( v ?9 plates ( gold or silv]1 s z to hang ^u !m lightly1 & 7 hamm]$ up to %[ 9 l[ relief ! fa%ion ( ! fl[] & ! l9eam5ts ( ! bea/ or bird meant to be repres5t$4 ,su* a /yle ( ornam5tation 9 gold or silv]1 /it*$ on silk5 /uffs1 0 f> m common once ?an is n[ ?\ght4 ,x _h also a te*nical description3 9 speak+ ( x p w\ld ei!r write or say1 8silk beat5 ) gold or silv]20 z1 = example1 ,b>b>a ,mason us$ ! t]m :5 9 #aech %e bequea!d to a *ur* 8a ve/m5t ( gr5e sylke betyn ) goold40 ,spangles1 :5 !y happ5$ to be us$1 7 n l ^? n[ employ$ b fa%ion$ aft] ano!r & arti/ic %ape1 & put on 9 a diff]5t mann]4 ,a fragm5t /ill exi/s f ! *asuble belong+ to ! set ( ve/m5ts wr\ght1 x is said1 by ,isabella ( ,spa9 & h] maids ( hon\r2 & us$ ! fir/ "t high mass 0 sung 9 ,granada1 aft] x _h be5 tak5 by ! ,spani>ds f ! ,moors4 ,^u ?is are fl[]s1 well ?r[n up 9 relief1 done 9 spangles on a crimson velvet gr\nd4 ,! spangles--"s 9 gold1 "s 9 silv]--are1 ?\gh small1 ( sev]al sizes2 all are void$2 t is1 holl[ 9 ! middle2 ) ! circumf]5ce n flat b convex1 & are sew$ on l tiles1 "o ov]lapp+ ! o!r1 produc+ a ri* & pleas+ effect4 ,our pres5t spangles1 9 ! flat %ape1 are q mod]n4 ,ano!r k9d ( embroid]y = g>m5ts 0 9 gold1 work$ sometimes by itself1 sometimes ) col\r$ silk ?read laid d[n alt]nately beside x2 s z to l5d a t+e ( gre51 crimson1 p9k1 or blue to ! imag9$ tissue ( ! robe1 z if x 7 made ( a gold5 /uff %ot ) ano!r t9t4 ,?is gold 8pass+0 0 sewn on4 ,! workwom5 tak+ ?9 silk1 :ile fa/5+ ! pass+1 dott$ x all ov] 9 small /it*es set exactly 9 a way t %[$ ! same patt]n4 ,) no o!r appliance !y 7 ?us enabl$ to l5d to _! drap]ies ! appe>ance ( hav+ be5 n wr\ght by ! ne$le b actually cut out ( a piece ( textile2 = :i* !y h be5 sometimes mi/ak54 ,anci5tly1 also1 9 ,engl& ano!r mode ( embroid]+ articles1 ei!r = *ur* use or = h\sehold furniture1 0 by d>n+ or work+ ! subject ^u l95 nett+4 ,?is 0 call$ net-"w1 filatorium1 z we le>n f ! ,exet] inv5tory1 :]e we read t its ca!dral possess$ 9 #acbg ?ree pieces ( x = use at ! alt>3 "o 9 p>ticul> = ?r[+ ov] ! desk4 ,^! ?read embroid]ies 7 *iefly wr\ght dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury2 b z e>ly z #abie ,/4 ,paul's _h a cu%ion ( ! k9d4 ,illu/ration3 ,embroid]$ hang+s ( a b$2 f a ,,ms4 ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 9 ! ,briti% museum4 ,cro*et1 knitt+ done ) l95 ?read1 & ! ?ick k9ds ( lace wr\ght 7*iefly 9 ,fl&]s7 ^u ! cu%ion ) bobb9s1 7 mu* employ$ "u ! "n ( nun's lace f ! sixte5? c5tury & upw>ds1 = bord]+ alt>-clo?s1 albs1 & e sort ( t[el requir$ = *ur* purposes4 ,,*apt] ,x4 ,tape/ry is nei!r real weav+ nor true embroid]y1 b 9 a mann] unites 9 its work+ ^? two processes into "o4 ,?\gh wr\ght 9 a loom & ^u a w>p /ret*$ out along its frame1 x has no wo( ?r[n across ^? ?reads ) a %uttle or any l appliance b its weft is done ) _m %ort ?reads1 all v>i\sly col\r$ & put 9 by a ne$le4 ,x is n embroid]y1 ?\gh s v l x1 = tape/ry is n work$ ^u :at is really a web1 hav+ bo? w>p & wo(1 b ^u a s]ies ( closely set f9e /r+s4 ,f ! way 9 :i* tape/ry is spok5 ( 9 ,holy ,writ we may be sure t ! art is v old2 & if x did n take its fir/ rise 9 ,egypt1 we are l$ by ! same au?ority to conclude t x soon became successfully cultivat$ by ! p ( t l&4 ,! woman 9 ! book ( ,prov]bs says3 8,i h wov5 my b$ ) cords4 ,i h cov]$ x ) pa9t$ tape/ry1 br\ght f ,egypt40 ,we f9d1 !re=e1 n only t x 0 employ$ z an article ( h\sehold furniture among ! ,israelites1 b t ! ,egyptians 7 ! mak]s4 ,f ,egypt ?r\gh we/]n ,asia ! art ( tape/ry-mak+ f\nd its way to ,europe1 & aft] _m ages at la/ to ,engl&4 ,among ! o!r manual lab\rs foll[$ 9 religi\s h\ses ?is h&icraft 0 "o2 & monks became "s ( ! be/ workm54 ,! alt>s & ! walls ( _! *ur*es 7 hung ) tape/ry4 ,mat!w ,p>is tells u t among o!r ornam5ts :i*1 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ! fir/1 abbot ,ge(frey _h made = 8 *ur* ( ,/4 ,alban's 7 ?ree r]$oses2 ! fir/ a l>ge "o wr\ght ) ! f9d+ ( ! body ( ,/4 ,alban2 ! o!r two figur$ ) ! p>ables ( ! man :o fell among ?ieves1 & ( ! prodigal son4 ,:ile 9 ,london 9 ! ye> #acaf ,simon abbot ( ,ramsey b\ght looms1 /aves1 %uttles1 & a slay3 8pro weblomes emptis xxs4 ,et pro /aves ad easdem vjd4 ,item pro iiij %ittles pro eodem op]e ijs vjd4 ,item 9 j4 slay pro textoribus viijd40 ,colli]1 9 8 hi/ory1 quotes a lett] f ,giff>d1 "o ( ! commission]s = ! suppression ( ! small] h\ses1 writt5 to ,cromwell2 9 :i* he says1 speak+ ( ! mona/]y ( ,wol/rope 9 ,l9coln%ire3 8,n "o religi\s p]son !re b t he c & do? use ei!r imbro!r+1 writ+ books ) v fair h&1 mak+ _! own g>m5ts1 c>v+1 pa9t+1 or grav+1 etc40 ,we may collect f ,*auc] t work+ tape/ry 0 n an uncommon trade2 among 8 pilgrims he m5tions 9 ! prologue1 ,an hab]da%] & a c>p5t]1 ,a webbe1 a dy]1 & a tapiss]4 ,pieces ( ,engli%-made tape/ry /ill rema94 ,t f9e ?\gh greatly damag$ specim5 at ,/4 ,m>y's hall1 ,cov5try1 repres5t+ ! m>riage ( ,h5ry ! six?1 is "o2 a second is ! curi\s r]$os = an alt>1 belong+ to ! v9tn]'s company2 ?is la/ is figur$ ) ,/4 ,m>t9 on horseback cutt+ 8 cloak 9 two t he might give "o half to a poor man1 & ) ,/4 ,dun/an s++ mass4 ,a ?ird piece1 ( l>ge size & 9 good pres]vation1 is 9 private possession1 & hangs ^u ! wall 9 a h\se 9 ,cornwall4 ,x is "o ( f\r pieces1 ( :i* two h be5 lo/1 repres5t+ ! m>riage ( ,h5ry ! sev5? & ,elizabe? ( ,york2 & 0 probably made ab\t ! ye> #adij4 ,! art ( weav+ tape/ry 0 successfully foll[$ 9 _m p>ts ( ,france & ?r\gh\t anci5t ,fl&]s2 :]e secul> trade-guilds 7 =m$ = its especial manufacture 9 _m ( ! t[ns4 ,sev]al ( ^! places won = !mselves an especial fame2 b s f>1 at la/1 did ,arras outrun !m all t arras-"w came to be ! common ^w1 bo? "h & on ! cont95t1 to mean all sorts ( tape/ry1 :e!r wr\ght 9 ,engl& or abroad4 ,?us ! f9e hang+s = ! *oir ( ,cant]bury ca!dral1 n[ at ,aix-en-,prov5ce1 ?\gh probably made at home by 8 own monks & giv5 to t *ur* by prior ,gold/on 9 #aeie1 are spok5 ( z arras-"w3 8de arysse subtilit] intextos40 ,illu/ration3 ,bann] ( ! tape/ry work]s ( ,lyons4 ,arras is b "o among o!r t]ms by :i*1 dur+ ! middle ages1 tape/ry 0 call$4 ,its e>lie/ "n 0 ,s>ac5ic "w2 8opus ,s>ac5icum20 &1 at fir/1 tape/ry 0 wr\ght z 9 ! ea/1 9 a l[ or horizontal loom4 ,! artisans ( ,france & ,fl&]s 7 ! fir/ to introduce ! upright or v]tical frame1 aft]w>ds kn[n abroad z 8de haute lisse10 9 contradi/9ction to ! l[ or horizontal frame call$ 8de basse lisse40 ,workm5 :o kept to ! unimprov$ loom 7 kn[n1 9 ! trade1 z ,s>ac5s1 = reta9+ ! me?od ( _! paynim tea*]s2 & _! "w1 ,s>ac5ic4 ,9 ! ye> #acci ,john de ,croisettes1 a ,s>ac5-tape/ry work] liv+ at ,arras1 sells to ! duke ( ,t\ra9e a piece ( gold ,s>ac5ic tape/ry figur$ ) ! /ory ( ,*>lemagne3 8,jean de ,croisettes1 tapissi] ,s>raz9ois demeurant ,arras1 v5d au duc de ,t\ra9e un tapis s>raz9ois or de l'hi/oire de ,*>lema9e40 ,! high frame1 h[ev]1 soon sup]s$$ ! l[ "o2 & among ! pieces ( tape/ry belong+ to ,philippe duke ( ,b\rgogne & ,brabant _m are especially ent]$ z ( ! high frame2 "o ( :i* is ?us describ$3 8ung grant tapiz de haulte lice1 sauz or1 de l'i/oire du duc ,guillaume de ,norm&ie comm5t il conqui/ ,englet]re40 ,a v f9e example is /ill to be se5 9 ! collection at ! ,l\vre1 repres5t+ ! hi/ory ( ,/4 ,m>t94 ,illu/ration3 ,! leg5d ( ,/4 ,m>t94--,f a piece ( tape/ry ( ! f\rte5? c5tury 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,) ! upright1 z ) ! flat frame1 ! workman _h to grope 9 ! d>k a great deal ^u 8 pa?4 ,9 bo?1 he 0 oblig$ to put 9 ! ?reads on ! back or wrong side ( ! piece1 foll[+ 8 sket* z be/ he c\ld beh9d ! /r+s or w>p4 ,z ! face 0 d[nw>d 9 ! flat frame x 0 mu* less easy to obs]ve & correct a fault4 ,9 ! upright frame he might g 9 front1 & ) 8 own "w 9 op5 view on "o h& & ! orig9al design full be=e him on ! o!r1 he c\ld m5d z he w5t on1 /ep by /ep1 ! smalle/ mi/ake1 7 x b a s+le ?read4 ,put side by side1 :5 f9i%$1 ! pieces f ! upright frame 7 9 beauty & p]fection f> beyond ^? f ! flat "o4 ,we c sc>cely p>ticul>ize ! details 9 :i* t sup]iority consi/$1 = n "o s+le flat sample is to be id5tifi$ z c]ta9 f evid5ce )9 our rea*4 ,x is possible t at ,s\? ,k5s+ton ! specim5s nos4 #abif & #adfe are 8,s>ac5ic20 t is1 wr\ght 9 ! l[ flat loom1 or 8de basse lisse20 b all ! re/ are ( ! 8de haute lisse10 work$ 9 ! upright frame4 ,! 8weav]0 is among ! trades engrav$ 9 ! curi\s volume pr9t$ at ,frank=t 9 #aegd1 de me*anicis artibus1 ) plates by ,amman4 ,:5 ! illum9ators ( manuscripts began to put 9 gold5 %ad+s all ov] _! pa9t+ ! tape/ry-work]s did ! same4 ,su* a mann] _c be reli$ on z a crit]ion :]eby to judge ( ! exact place :]e any specim5 ( tape/ry _h be5 wr\ght1 or to tell its precise age4 ,to "w figures on a gold5 gr\nd & to %ade g>m5ts1 build+s1 & l&scapes ) gold1 are two diff]5t ?+s4 ,^u sev]al pieces at ,s\? ,k5s+ton gold ?read has be5 v pl5tifully us$1 b ! metal is ( s debas$ a quality t x has become almo/ black4 ,! use ( tape/ry = *ur* decoration & h\sehold furniture1 bo? 9 ,engl& & abroad1 0 = a long p]iod v great4 ,_m l>ge pieces1 mo/ly ( a scriptural "*1 7 provid$ by c>d9al ,wolsey = 8 palace at ,hampton c\rt4 ,9 ! next g5]ation1 a v fam\s set 0 made 9 ,fl&]s1 :i* = _m ye>s decorat$ ! walls ( ! ,h\se ( ,lords3 x repres5t$ ! defeat ( ! ,spani% ,armada4 ,?is magnific5t memorial 0 de/roy$ 9 ! fire ( #ahcd4 ,"o fragm5t only is kn[n to exi/4 ,?is piece 0 cut out to make way = a gall]y at ! "t ( ! trial ( que5 ,c>ol9e1 & 0 secret$ by a ,g]man s]vant ( ! ,"l ,*amb]la94 ,! relic 0 b\ght "s ye>s aft] = #bj & pres5t$ to ! corporation ( ,plym\?1 :o /ill possess x4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,weav]2 f ! engrav+ by ,j4 ,amman4 ,! mo/ beautiful s]ies n[ 9 ! _w is 9 ! ,vatican at ,rome1 & may be judg$ ( by look+ at a few ( ! orig9al c>toons 7at pres5t 9 ! ,s4 ,k4 museum74 ,duke ,cosimo tri$ to set up tape/ry "w at ,flor5ce b did n succe$4 ,lat]1 ,rome produc$ "s good ?+s2 among o!rs1 ! f9e copy ( ,da ,v9ci's ,la/ ,supp] /ill hung up on ,maunday ,?ursday4 ,engl& made sev]al attempts to re-introduce ! manufacture3 fir/ at ,mortlake1 !n aft]w>ds 9 ,london1 at ,soho4 ,works f ^! two e/abli%m5ts may be met )4 ,at ,nor?umb]l& h\se !re 0 a room hung ) l>ge pieces ( tape/ry wr\ght at ,soho1 & = t mansion1 9 ! ye> #ageh4 ,! designs 7 by ,francesco ,zuc*]elli & consi/$ ( l&scapes compos$ ( hills cr[n$ "h & !re ) ! /&+ ru9s ( temples or /rew$ ) brok5 columns1 among :i* gr\ps ( c\ntry folks are w&]+ & amus+ !mselves4 ,mortlake & ,soho 7 failures4 ,n s ! ,gobel9s at ,p>is1 z e "o well kn[s4 ,9 _m ,engli% h\ses1 especially 9 ! c\ntry1 good samples ( late ,flemi% tape/ry may be f\nd4 ,close to ,london1 ,holl& h\se is adorn$ ) "s curi\s specim5s1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! rais$ /yle4 ,an e>li] example 7engrav$ on ! next page7 ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 repres5t+ ! m>riage ( ,l\is ,,xii4 & ,anne ( ,brittany is 9 a =eign collection4 ,imitat$ tape/ry exi/$ "h long ago "u ! "n ( 8/ayn$ clo?10 & ! work]s ( x 7 embodi$ into a ,london guild4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury ,exet] ca!dral _h sev]al pieces ( old pa9t$ or 8/ayn$0 clo?3 8i front /ayn$ cum crucifixo1 ,m>ia et ,johanne1 ,petro et ,paulo2 viij panni l9ei /ayn$1 etc40 ,! great use at t "t ( su* articles 9 h\sehold furniture may be witness$ 9 ! w1 #aejc1 ( ,ka!r9e lady ,ha/+s :o bequea?s1 besides sev]al o!r su* pieces1 8an old hang9 ( c\nt]feit arres ( ,knollys1 :i* n[ hange? 9 ! hall & all su* hangy+s ( old bawdekyn1 or lyn5 paynt$ z n[ hang 9 ! *appell40 ,we may also rememb] t ,fal/aff speaks ( x z an illu/ration easily und]/ood2 he says t 8 troops are 8z ragg$ z ,laz>us 9 ! pa9t$ clo?40 ,c>pets are ak9 to tape/ry1 & ?\gh ! use ( !m may p]haps be n s anci5t yet is v old4 ,"h1 aga91 we mu/ look to ! p ( ,asia = ! f9e/ z well z ! e>lie/ examples ( ?is textile4 ,m$ival specim5s are r>e any:]e1 & we are glad to recomm5d att5tion to two pieces ( t p]iod =tunately 9 ! collection at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 no4 #hfdi1 ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 & no4 #hceg1 ( ! sixte5?1 bo? ( ,spani% make4 ,illu/ration3 ,m>riage ( ,l\is ,,xii4 & ,anne ( ,brittany4 ,! *amb]s ( our royal palaces & ! *ancels ( our p>i% *ur*es us$ to be /rew$ ) ru%es4 ,:5 h[ev] !y c\ld af=d x ! au?orities ( our ca!drals1 ev5 9 v e>ly times1 spread ! sanctu>y ) c>pets2 & at la/ old tape/ry came to be s employ$1 z n[ 9 ,italy4 ,among su* cov]+s = ! floor be=e ! alt> ,exet] _h a l>ge piece ( ,arras clo? figur$ ) ! life ( ! duke ( ,burgundy1 ! gift ( "o ( its bi%ops1 ,edmund ,lacy1 9 #adbj2 besides two l>ge c>pets1 "o be/[$ by bi%op ,nevill 9 #adef1 ! o!r1 ( a *equ]$ patt]n1 by lady ,elizabe? ,c\rtney3 8c>pet et panni coram alt>i /]n5di2 i pannus de ,arys de hi/oria ducis ,burgundie2 i l>ga c>peta1 etc40 ,9 an e>li] inv5tory we f9d t among ! 8banc>ia0 or b5*-cov]+s 9 ! *oir ( ! same ca!dral1 "o 0 a l>ge piece ( ,engli%-made tape/ry ) a frett$ patt]n4 ,x is v probable t z ! "w ( ! ,record ,commission goes on1 & our anci5t hi/orians are pr9t$1 evid5ce may be f\nd t ! looms at "w 9 all our great mona/]ies among o!r webs wr\ght c>pets4 ,f exi/+ te/imony we believe t su* mu/ h be5 ! practice at ,croyl&1 :]e abbot ,egelric 7! second ( ! "n7 gave to t *ur*1 be=e ! ye> #iib1 8two l>ge foot-clo?s s c>pets 7 !n call$ wov5 ) lions to be laid out be=e ! high alt> on great fe/ivals1 & two %ort] ones trail$ all ov] ) fl[]s1 = ! fea/ days ( ! apo/les40 ,! quantity ( c>pet+ 9 our palaces may be se5 by ! way 9 :i* ,lel& tells u t 8my lady ! que5's rooms0 7 /rew$ ) !m 8:5 %e took h] *amb]40 ,,*apt] ,,xi4 ,! value ( su* a collection ( textile fabrics z t at ,s\? ,k5s+ton c sc>cely be ov]rat$4 ,)\t su* aid x is n possible = ! pa9t] or ! hi/orian to br+ be=e 8 own m9d1 mu* less br+ be=e ano!r's1 a true repres5tation ( anci5t c]emonies & pageants4 ,:e!r 8 subject be a coronation or a royal m>riage1 a que5's 8tak+ h] *amb]10 a progress1 or a fun]al1 he _c correctly set =? ! spl5d\r or ! details ( ! occasion1 unless he c ref] to exi/+ examples ( ! clo?s ( gold1 ! figur$ velvets1 ! ri* embroid]y1 or ! spl5did silks1 :i* us$ to be worn ( old4 ,take = example nos4 #acaj & #hfbd4 ,^u ^! are figur$ /ags ) tall bran*+ horns1 c\*ant1 *a9$1 upturn+ _! antl]$ heads to sunbeams d>t+ d[n ^u !m amid a %[] ( ra92 & b5ea? ! /ags are eagles4 ,?is ,sicilian textile1 wov5 ab\t ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 br+s to "o's m9d ! bronze recumb5t figure ( a k+ 9 ,we/m9/] abbey4 ,x is t ( ,ri*>d ! second2 made = him be=e 8 d[nfall1 & by two copp]smi?s ( ,london1 ,ni*olas ,brok] & ,godfrey ,pre/4 ,?is effigy1 once f9ely gilt1 is z rem>kable = its beautiful workman%ip z = ! elaborate mann] 9 :i* ! cloak & kirtle worn by ! k+ are diap]$ all ov] ) a patt]n1 copi$ f ! silk5 /uff out ( :i* ^? g>m5ts mu/ h be5 cut = 8 p]sonal we> :ile liv+4 ,! patt]n consi/s ( a sprig ( ! planta g5e/a1 ! humble broom plant--! haughty ,plantag5et's device--along ) a c\*ant h>t *a9$ & gaz+ /raight =w>ds1 & above x a cl\d ) rays d>t+ up f beh9d4 ,^! 7 ,ri*>d's fav\rite cognizances3 ! "o f 8 gr&fa!r ,edw>d ! ?ird2 ! o!r f 8 "m ,joan ( ,k5t4 ,x is v probable t ! k+'s dress 0 ( ! same k9d ( silk ,sicilian textile z ! examples j ref]r$ to3 & t ^? v examples are portions ( pieces wr\ght1 p]haps at ,pal]mo1 = ! c\rt ( ,ri*>d4 ,!y are ( ! same date & !y %[ 8 devices2 ! *a9$ h>t & ! sunbeams issu+ f a cl\d4 ,! seeml9ess1 n to say com=t1 ( private life 0 improv$ by ! use ( textiles4 ,let ! hi/orian contra/ ! cu/om ev5 9 a royal palace1 dur+ ! middle ages1 ) t n[ foll[$ 9 e tradesman's home4 ,!n /raw & ru%es 7 /rew$ 9 h\ses ^u ! floor 9 e room2 & ,w5dov]1 9 8 life ( ,/4 ,?omas1 speaks ( ! k+'s c\rti]s platt+ knots ) ! litt]1 & fl++ !m ) a gibe at a man :o _h be5 slight$ by ! pr9ce4 ,n q a hundr$ ye>s lat] :5 ,eleanor ( ,ca/ile came to ,london = h] m>riage ) our fir/ ,edw>d %e f\nd h] lodg+s furni%$1 "u ! directions ( ! ,spani% c\rti]s :o _h arriv$ be=e h]1 ) hang+s & curta9s ( silk ar\nd ! walls1 & c>pets spread ^u ! gr\nd4 ,?is (f5d$ "s ( ! p2 m ( !m1 z ,mat!w ,p>is records1 laugh$ at ! ?\ght t su* co/ly ?+s 7 laid d[n to be walk$ ^u4 ,take1 aga91 ! fam\s ,syon cope4 ,n only is x full ( int]e/ to writ]s ^u liturgies & rituals b ( ev5 m to ! h]ald & g5ealogi/4 ,cov]$ z its orphreys are ) armorial be>+s1 ?is cope c>ries ) x evid5ces z important & z valuable z any contempor>y roll ( arms2 & no inquir] into ! p$igrees ( ! anci5t families ( ! ,p]cies or ,f]r]s1 ( ,clif=ds or ,botel]s1 & ( _m o!rs1 c af=d to neglect x4 ,we h sev]al records ( evid5ce 9 c\rts ( law tak5 f h]aldic embroid]ies ^u robes & ve/m5ts4 ,9 ! fam\s controv]sy betwe5 ! h\ses ( ,scrope & ,grosv5or1 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 inquiries 7 made & pro(s 7 (f]$ on bo? sides z to ! "r ( be>+ ^u _! %ields ! b5d or ^u a field azure4 ,witnesses produc$ at ,we/m9/] corporas cases1 copes1 & albs embroid]$ ) ! arms ( ,scrope4 ,*auc] 0 "o ( ! witnesses2 & said he _h se5 ^? arms on bann]s & ve/m5ts & commonly call$ ! arms ( ,scrope4 ,aga92 ! fact t 9 h] w>drobe 0 f\nd a ve/m5t embroid]$ ) ! royal arms 0 br\ght =w>d to prove ! *>ge ( treason aga9/ ! old c\ntess ( ,salisbury1 ! "m ( c>d9al ,pole2 & = :i* crime %e 0 condemn$4 ,collections ( anci5t textiles are ( /ill great] use to /ud5ts ( ecclesia/ical hi/ory & *ur* rituals ?an ev5 to ! secul> hi/orian4 ,x is probable t ! great] numb] ( ! specim5s :i* n[ exi/ =m$ orig9ally portions ( sacr$ ve/m5ts & furniture = alt>s4 ,=m]ly s common1 fragm5ts ev5 ( su* clo?s & robes h become ( v great r>ity1 especially 9 ,engl&2 :]e = ! la/ two or ?ree c5turies ! use ( ! num]\s old *ur* ve/m5ts & decorations has entirely ceas$4 ,aga91 = example3 ! ?ree cases nos4 #eieh1 #hcbi1 & #hcbg are ( ! k9d kn[n z ! 8capsella cum s]ico dec5t] ornata0 ( ! m$ival writ]s2 small cases or boxes dec5tly fitt$ up ) silk2 or ! 8capsula corporalium10 ! box 9 :i* 7 kept ! corporals or squ>e pieces ( f9e l951 requir$ = s]vice dur+ holy week4 ,! "n z well z ! use ( ?is appliance is v old1 & bo? are spok5 ( 9 ! v anci5t #8,ord9es ,romani' edit$ by ,mabillon4 ,"o ( ^!1 9 ! rubric = ,good ,friday1 speaks ( ! ,ho/ z hav+ be5 kept 9 ! corporal's case or box3 89 capsula corporialium40 ,9 ,engl&1 su* small wood5 boxes cov]$ ) silks & velvets ri*ly embroid]$ 7 once employ$ = ! same purpose3 & sev]al are m5tion$ 9 ! ,exet] inv5tories4 ,! two pyx-clo?s1 nos4 #hcdb & #hfia1 h an especial int]e/ = ! /ud5t ( m$ival liturgy4 ,!re 0 a cu/om dur+ ! middle ages 9 ,engl&1 z well z 9 ,france & sev]al o!r c\ntries on ! cont95t1 ( keep+ ! ,eu*>i/ hung up ov] ! high alt> b5ea? a canopy1 )9 a pyx ( gold1 silv]1 ivory1 or enamel1 mantl$ ) a f9e l95 clo? or veil4 ,?is veil = ! pyx 0 sometimes embroid]$ ) gold5 ?read & col\r$ silks4 ,su* an "o is m5tion$ 9 ! records ( ! ,ex*equ]1 edit$ by ,palgrave3 among ! valuables belong+ to ,ri*>d ! second 9 ,hav]=d ca/le & s5t by ! %]iff ( ,h]e=d to ! ex*equ]1 at ! beg9n+ ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ! f\r?1 7 8i c\pe d'or p\r le ,corps ,ihu ,cry/4 i t[ayll ove 7avec7 i longe p>ure de mesure la suyte40 ,sev]al names 7 giv5 to ?is f9e l95 cov]+4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( ?+s tak5 f ,dr4 ,caius1 & 9 ! college ( 8 own f\nd+ at ,cambridge1 are 8corporas clo!s1 ) ! pix & #8s9don' & canopie40 ,?is v>iety 9 nom5clature d\btless has l$ "s writ]s to /ate t be=e ,m>y que5 ( ,scots laid h] head ^u ! block %e _h a 8corporal10 /rictly s call$1 b\nd ov] h] eyes3 z x is giv5 9 "o ( our hi/ories ( ,engl&1 8a h&k]*ief 9 :i* ! ,eu*>i/ _h =m]ly be5 enclos$40 ,b ?is b&age mu/ h be5 ! veil = a pyx4 ,z ,m>y wr\ght mu* ) h] ne$le1 & specim5s ( h] "w yet rema9 at ,*atswor? & at ,grey/ock1 ?is piece may h be5 embroid]$ by h] own h& & p]haps also _h be5 once us$4 ,"o ( ^! old ,engli% pyx or ,corpus ,*ri/i clo?s1 0 f\nd a few ye>s ago at ! bottom ( a *e/ 9 ,hessett *ur*1 ,suffolk4 ,z x is a rem>kable specim5 ( ! +5i\s h&icraft ( our m$ival c\ntrywom5 x des]ves description4 ,to make ?is pyx-clo? a piece ( ?ick l951 ab\t two feet squ>e1 0 *os51 & be+ m>k$ (f into small equal wid?s on all its f\r edges1 ! ?reads at e o!r space 71 bo? 9 ! w>p & wo(1 pull$ out4 ,! *ecqu]s or squ>es s produc$ 7 !n drawn 9 by ?reads ti$ on ! "u side1 hav+ ! %ape ( />s1 s well & delicately work$ t1 till x _h be5 n>r[ly look$ into1 ! piece 0 ?\ght to be guipure lace4 ,an old alb1 no4 #hgaj1 & an amice1 #hcjg1 hav+ ! app>els yet rema9+ ^u bo?1 are well wor? att5tion on acc\nt ( some:at simil> curi\s ornam5tal ne$lework 9 an intricate mann]4 ,9 ! middle ages 9 ,engl& x 0 n unusual to susp5d ^u pa/oral /affs1 j bel[ ! crook1 a piece ( f9e l954 ,we see !m repres5t$ on effigies & 9 illum9ations2 b exi/+ examples are ( ! utmo/ r>ity4 ,two are at ,s\? ,k5s+ton3 nos4 #hbgi ,a1 & #hffb4 ,!re are also !re sev]al specim5s ( ! *ri/5+ cloaks1 anci5tly 9 use4 ,^! 7 n only conspicu\s 9 royal *ri/5+s b1 v>y+ 9 co/l9ess accord+ to ! p>5t's rank1 7 h&$ d[n 9 inv5tories & wills4 ,at ! *ri/5+ ( ,ar?ur pr9ce ( ,wales1 elde/ son ( ,h5ry ! eigh?1 8my lady ,cecill1 ! que5's elde/ si/]1 b>e ! pr9ce wrapp$ 9 a mantell ( cremesyn clo! ( golde furr$ ) ermyn10 etc4 ,%akespe>e makes ! %eph]d1 9 ! ,w9t]'s tale1 cry out1 8,"h's a sight = !e2 look !e1 a be>+ clo? = a squire's *ild60 ,a well-to-d tradesman1 ^: w is pr9t$ among ! ,bury wills1 bequea!d 9 #afdh to 8 daught] ,rose 8 8be>e+ cloa?1 su* 444 l9n5 z is belong+e to infants at _! tyme ( baptisme40 ,small squ>e pieces ( embroid]$ l95 are sometimes f\nd 9 c\ntry h\ses 9 "s old *e/1 ( :i* ! orig9al use is said n to be n[ kn[n4 ,b 9 mo/ cases ^! 7 made = *ildr5's quilts2 & v (t5 h ! emblems ( ! evangeli/s figur$ at ! corn]s3 rem9d+ u ( ! nurs]y rhyme1 once common bo? 9 ,engl& & abroad-- 8,mat!w1 ,m>k1 ,luke1 & ,john1 ,bless ! b$ t ,i lie on40 ,! quilts also = gr[n p 7 ornam5t$ 9 ! same way4 ,at ,durham1 9 #addf1 9 ! dormitory ( ! priory 0 a quilt 8cum iiij or evangeli/is 9 corn]iis40 ,v few examples n[ exi/ ( ! c]emonial %oe anci5tly worn by bi%ops4 ,^! 7 ( velvet1 or damask1 or /rong l95 embroid]$4 ,"o is pres]v$ at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 no4 #abij3 ano!r1 once worn by ,waynflete bi%op ( ,w9*e/]1 is /ill at ,magdal5 college1 ,ox=d4 ,we le>n f ! ,york wills t ^! %oes 7 a "p ( ! episcopal ve/m5ts3 bi%op ,pudsey left 8 mitre1 /aff1 & s&als1 8et ct]a episcopalia0 to ,durham ca!dral 9 #aaie4 ,lat] ! "n ( 8sabat9es0 0 giv5 !m2 & ar*bi%op ,b[et's inv5tory m5tions two pairs3 8pro j p>e de sabbatones1 br\ddird et c\*' cum p]ell'2 pro j p>e de sabbatones de albo panno auri40 ,collections ( textile fabrics are ( ! highe/ value to ! arti/4 ,!re is none1 any:]e1 s ri* or complete z t at ,s\? ,k5s+ton2 & be=e x 0 pur*as$ = public use1 pa9t]s 7 glad to ref] to any scanty collection 9 private h&s1 or to old pictures or illum9at$ manuscripts1 or engrav+s4 ,b1 n[1 arti/s may see pieces ( ! actual /uffs repres5t$ 9 ! pictures1 say1 ( ! national ,gall]y4 ,= example3 9 ,orcagna's coronation ( ! bless$ ,virg9 ! blue silk diap]$ 9 gold1 ) fl[]s & birds1 hung z a back gr\nd2 our ,"l's :ite tunic diap]$ 9 gold ) foliage2 ! mantle ( ,8 "m made ( ! same /uff2 ,/4 ,/eph5's dalmatic ( gre5 samit1 diap]$ ) gold5 foliage1 are ,sicilian 9 design & copi$ f ! ri* silks :i* came1 9 ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 f ! looms ( ,pal]mo4 ,:ile /&+ be=e ,jacopo di ,cas5t9o's ,/4 ,john our eye is drawn to ! orphrey on t evangeli/'s *asuble embroid]$1 aft] ! ,tuscan /yle1 ) b>b$ quatrefoils1 %utt+ 9 ! bu/s ( apo/les4 ,isotta da ,ram9i1 9 h] portrait by ,pietro della ,francesca1 we>s a g[n made ( velvet & gold l ! cut velvets at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,s1 aga91 in/ead ( copy+ patt]ns tak5 f ! ri* clo? ( gold worn by ,/4 ,laur5ce 9 ,francia's picture1 or f ! mantle ( ! doge 9 t by ,cappaccio1 or f ! foot-clo?s on ! /eps 9 ! pictures by ,melozzo da ,=li1 he may f9d = 8 au?orities 9 ! same collection exi/+ specim5s ( contempor>y & simil> fabrics4 ,n m]ely arti/s ( a high] class b decorators also may be equally b5efit$ by ! patt]ns & examples pres]v$ ( old wall-hang+s & tape/ry4 ,f e>ly times up to ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury our ca!drals & p>i% *ur*es1 our ca/les & manorial h\ses1 9 %ort ! dwell+s ( ! weal?y ev]y:]e1 us$ to be ornam5t$ ) wall-pa9t+ done n 9 8fresco0 b 9 8secco20 t is1 di/emp]4 ,^u high fe/ivals ! walls ( ! *ur*es 7 ov]spread ) tape/ry & ne$lework2 s1 too1 ^? 9 ! halls ( palaces1 = "s solemn c]emonial4 ,w>ton1 9 8 hi/ory ( ,engli% poetry1 gives a passage f ,brad%aw's life ( ,/4 ,w]burgh writt5 late 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 f :i* a few l9es are well wor? quotation4 ,he is describ+ h[ a l>ge hall 0 array$ = a great fea/3 ,all h]bes & fl[]s1 fragraunt1 fayre & swete ,7 /raw$ 9 halles1 & layd "u !yr fete4 ,clo!s ( gold & arras 7 hang$ 9 ! hall ,depaynt$ ) pyctures & hy/oryes manyfolde1 ,well wr\ghte & craftely4 ,! /ory ( ,adam1 ,noe1 & 8 %yppe2 ! twelve sones ( ,jacob2 ! t5 plagues ( ,egypt1 &-- ,duke ,josue 0 joyn$ aft] !m 9 pycture1 99 99 99 99 99 ,!yr noble actes & tryumphes m>cyall ,fre%ly 7 br[dr$ 9 ^! clo!s royall 99 99 99 99 99 ,b ov] ! hye desse 9 pryncypall place ,:]e ! sayd ?re kynges sat cr[n$ all ,! be/ hallynge hang$ z reason 01 ,:]eon 7 wr\ght ! ix ord]s angelicall1 ,dyvyd$ 9 ?re i]>*yses1 n cess+ to call1 ,sanctus1 ,sanctus1 ,sanctus1 bless$ be ! ,trynite1 ,dom9us ,deus ,sabao?1 ?re p]sons 9 "o deyte4 ,specim5s ( tape/ry ( ! lat] m$ival p]iod may n uncommonly be f\nd3 b n s pieces ( room hang+s1 8hall+s10 su* z ^? at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 nos4 #acgj1 #abig1 & #adfe4 ,simil> examples are1 we believe1 unkn[n4 ,we w add a few words only on "o o!r1 & t n a trivial1 "p ( anci5t dress2 namely1 gloves4 ,=m]ly ^! 7 mu* m ornam5t$ ?an n[2 &1 :5 meant = ladies' we>1 sometimes p]fume 0 be/[$ ^u !m4 ,among ! new ye>'s day pres5ts to que5 ,m>y1 be=e %e came to ! ?rone1 0 8a payr ( gloves embrawret ) gold40 ,a ye> aft]w>ds 8x payr ( ,spanyne%e gloves f a du*es 9 ,spayne0 came to h]2 & b a mon? be=e1 ,mrs4 ,:ell]s _h s5t to h] highness 8a pair ( swete gloves40 ,%akespe>e1 true to ! mann]s ( 8 day1 aft] mak+ ,autolycus *ant ! praises ( 8 ,lawn z :ite z driv5 sn[2 ,cyprus1 black z e'er 0 cr[2 ,gloves1 z sweet z damask roses2 puts ?is into ! m\? ( ! %eph]dess3 8,come1 y promis$ me a tawdry lace1 & a pair ( sweet gloves40 ,we may f9d a pair ( su* gloves 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton collection1 no4 #dffe4 ,x may be prop] to add1 9 conclusion1 t ! great] "p ( ! v valuable & ext5sive collection ( m$ival textile fabrics at ,s\? ,k5s+ton 0 collect$ by ,dr4 ,bock1 a canon ( ,aix la ,*apelle2 & pur*as$ f him ab\t ! ye> #ahfd4 ,illu/ration3 ,/ate gloves =m]ly belong+ to ,l\is ,,xiii4 ,,index4 ,,page ,acca1 silks1 #gj ,amasis1 8 l95 corslet1 #e ,anne ( ,cleves1 h] pall ( clo? ( gold1 #da ,are/e1 clo? (1 #gd n ,arras1 #ge ,ari/otle fir/ m5tions silk1 #h ,arras1 a "n = tape/ry1 #ig ,aurelian1 refuses 8 wife a silk robe1 #i ,babylon1 embroid]ies1 #gi ,balda*9o1 f baudek91 #db ,bann] ( ,/rasburg1 #ib at ,lyons1 #ig ,ba?1 fam\s = weav+1 #fe ,baudek91 a co/ly /uff1 #dj orig9 ( "n1 #dj 8,batuz10 its mean+1 #ij ,block-pr9t$ l95s1 #fg ,blodb5des1 #aa ,blodius1 blue col\r1 #gf ,boadicea1 h] cloak1 #c ,bordalisaund]1 expla9$1 #gb ,briti% b>ds1 di/9ction ( dress1 #c ,bruges1 h] looms fam\s1 #fg ,buckram1 :y s call$1 #gb ,byzant9e textiles1 #ej n good examples at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 #ej ,cadas1 or c>duus1 a silk5 /uff1 #cj ,camoca1 or camak1 h[ us$1 #cj ,canvas1 orig9 ( "n1 #d ,c>e-clo?1 expla9$1 #gb ,c>pets1 #aja ,cecily1 ,sa9t1 h] robe1 #af ,c5dal expla9$1 #bg ,*asubles ( /aurac91 #cg n to be made ( fu/ian1 #gc ,*ild]ic1 8 burial g>m5t1 #af ,*9ese textiles1 #di patt]n$ silks1 #ga ,*rysoclavus expla9$1 #ce ,ciclat\n1 #ah ,c+ula1 expla9$1 #ab ,cloaks = *ri/5+s1 #ajh ,clo? ( gold1 two k9ds1 #ai 8/ayn$01 #aja ,clo?s ( e/ate1 #db ,copp] us$ to imitate gold ?read1 #ba ,cotton1 native home1 #c 8,colayn0 ribbon1 #fi ,cologne orphrey webs1 #fi ,col\rs ( silks1 m$ival1 #ge ,corporal1 said to be us$ by ,m>y ( ,scotl&1 #ajg ,cro*et1 or 8nun's lace01 #id ,cyclas1 a spl5did g>m5t1 #bg ,dalmatic ( ,*>lemagne at ,rome1 #ch ,byzant9e1 #ej ,d>ius1 8 dress describ$1 #ae ,damasks1 ,fr5*1 #fh :y s nam$1 #ga 8,de fundato10 a patt]n on silk1 #ch ,diap]1 a silk1 #cb possible orig9 ( "n1 #cb ! mean+ ext5d$1 #cc ,dorneck1 expla9$1 #gb ,durham ca!dral1 ve/m5ts1 #be1 #bh ,ea/]n pr9ces1 insignia on _! robes1 #de ,eagle & o!r birds1 wov5 on /&>ds1 #dg ,edw>d ! fir/1 8 gift ( 8cyclases01 #bg ,episcopal %oes1 #aji ,egyptian "w ( ! loom1 #e silv] & gold wire1 #bb loom1 #gi ,embroid]y1 #gi cov]+ anci5t dresses1 #hj rais$ on book cov]s1 #hf involv$ great lab\r1 #hf ,engli% textiles1 #fd ,exet] ca!dral1 ve/m5ts1 #be1 #bh1 #bi1 #ca1 #cc1 #df1 #dh1 #eh1 #fc1 #fe1 #gc ,eyle%am1 fam\s = l951 #fd 8,filatorium10 its mean+1 #ic ,filfot1 expla9$1 #ch ,flax1 gr[s wild 9 ,brita91 #d e>lie/ hi/ory1 #d ,flemi% textiles1 #ff ,flor5ce1 h] silks & velvets1 #fc specim5s at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 #fc cut-"w1 #hh ,fr5* silks1 #fh ,frontal1 at ,we/m9/]1 #ij ,fu/ian1 kn[n 9 #ac? c5tury1 #ca orig9ally f ,egypt1 #gc wov5 at ,naples1 #gd ,fygury1 silks s call$1 #cd ,gammadion1 expla9$1 #cf ,g>l&1 an ,engli%man1 #aa ,gems1 etc41 sewn on textiles1 #hi ,g5oa1 h] silks1 #ei specim5s at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 #fj ,gild+1 us$ = textiles1 #ba ,gloves1 embroid]$1 #aaa ,gold1 us$ 9 weav+1 #ae clo?s made ( gold alone1 #af1 #ag see 8copp]0 ,greek monks1 fir/ br+ silkworms1 #i ,haconbie *ur* ve/m5ts1 #fg ,hebrew ^w us$ improp]ly = silk1 #g embroid]y1 #gi ,heliogabalus1 fir/ wore :ole-silk1 #i ,hemp1 native home1 #c ,h]aldic *>ges on ,sicilian silk1 #ef ,h]od1 8 dress ( wov5 silv]1 #bb ,holos]icum1 expla9$1 #bd ,honorius1 8 wife's robe1 #af ,hull+s1 i4e4 hang+s1 #df1 #ff ,imp]ial1 a ri* silk1 #ci mean+ ( ! "n1 #dj ,indian1 anci5t spl5d\r ( dress1 #ae textiles1 #ej ,italy1 nor!rn1 m$ival silks1 #eh ,iri% clo?1 9 ,k+ ,john's "t1 #ff ,k+ ,h5ry ! ?ird ord]s clo? ( ,are/e1 #gd ,edw>d ! second ord]s ,engli% embroid]y1 #he ,ri*>d ! second1 gifts to ,hav]=d ca/le1 #ij ,lama d'oro ( ,italy1 #ae ,lett]s wov5 on textiles1 an anci5t practice1 #dg ,lib] pontificalis1 a valuable book1 #ce ,l9coln ca!dral1 ve/m5ts1 #bc ,looms1 upright & horizontal1 #fd ,lucca1 h] silks1 #eh clo?s ( gold1 #eh specim5s at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 #ei 8,m>ble0 silk1 #gf ,milan1 h] textiles1 #fc ,moresco-,spani% textiles1 #ec ,mortu>y palls1 #dc ,mummy clo?s1 #e unmix$ l951 #f ,musl91 long us$ 9 ! ea/1 #gd ,musl91 orig9 ( "n1 #gd ,neckham1 fir/ describes ! silkworm1 #ac 8,network0 on l951 #ic ,nuns1 anci5tly1 exhort$ n to weave col\r$ robes1 #aa ,engli%1 employ$ 9 weav+1 #fd 8,opus0 plum>ium1 #ha pect9eum1 #ha ,anglicum1 #hb consutum1 #hh good example at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 #hi ,organz9e1 expla9$1 #bf ,palls1 ( ri* /uffs1 #da clo? (1 #db ,paul's 7,/47 ca!dral1 ve/m5ts1 #be1 #ci1 #de1 #ej1 #fj1 #fe1 #ge ,pap]1 employ$ by ,japanese = clo?+1 #a 8,pass+0 = embroid]y1 #ic ,p]sian textiles1 #di 8,phrygian0 "w1 #gi ,plait$ wooll5 /uff among ! ,britons1 #b ,poly/auron1 :y s call$1 #cf ,pyx clo?s1 at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 #ajg curi\s example1 #ajh ,que5 ,matilda takes ! ,ab+don ve/m5ts1 #hc ,quilts = *ildr51 #ajh ,rayns 7,r5nes7 clo?s1 #fh ,rh5i% cut-"w1 #hh ,samit1 #aj1 #ai expla9$1 #bd ,s&al1 expla9$1 #bg ( bi%ops1 #aji ,s>ac5ic textiles1 #df1 #eh1 #ii ,s>c5et1 expla9$1 #bh ,sat91 n unkn[n 9 middle ages1 #bi e>ly names1 #bi ,sicilian textiles1 #ed ?ree /yles1 #ed ,silk1 #h unkn[n 9 anci5t ,egypt1 #h 9 ,s\? ,italy1 #aa? c5tury1 #aj ,silk1 its use at fir/ condemn$ = g>m5ts at ,rome1 #h ,silv]1 wov5 into webs1 #ba ,sk9s1 employ$ = clo?+1 #a ,snood1 ( ! ,anglo-saxons1 #ab ,spangles1 h[ anci5tly us$1 #ib ,sp9dle tree1 #b ,sp9n+1 anci5t daily "w ( wom51 #b ,/aurac91 orig9 ( "n1 #cf ,/ragulat1 expla9$1 #ci ,/reet hang+s1 #dc ,subs]icum1 expla9$1 #be ,syndon1 expla9$1 #bh ,syon ,cope1 peculi> "w1 #hc its hi/orical value1 #aje ,syrian textiles1 #eb ,taffeta1 expla9$1 #bh ,tape/ry1 #ie ,egyptian & ,jewi%1 #ie ,engli% at ,cov5try & 9 ,cornwall1 #if two k9ds ( frame1 #ig ( ! ,spani% armada1 #ajj imitat$1 #aja ,t>s1 clo? (1 probably ca%m]e1 #ca #gf ,textile1 mean+ ( ! t]m1 #a ! value ( collections1 #ajd1 c4 ,tiraz1 ( an ,arab palace1 #de ,tissue1 #bj ,transluc5t silk1 us$ 9 ,,mss41 #h ,?read1 gold1 v>ieties ( quality1 #bc ,tram1 expla9$1 #bf ,u1 ! lett]1 us$ 9 ,italian silks1 #ef ,velvet1 its hi/ory obscure1 #ca ve/m5ts1 fir/ m5tion$ 9 ,engl&1 #ca orig9 ( ! "n1 #ca v>ieties ( weav+1 #cb a peculi> ornam5t1 #fc ( ,fl&]s1 #fg ,v5etian textiles1 #fj *>act]i/ics1 #fb l95s1 #fb ,w>wick1 e>l1 8 bann]s ( sat91 #bi & dresses1 #ib ,we/m9/] copes1 pres]v$ at ,/onyhur/1 #fc ,wire1 gold & silv]1 = weav+1 #bb ma*9e = draw+ fir/ us$1 #bc ,worce/]1 fam\s = clo?s1 #fe ,worms1 7silkworms7 fir/ br\ght to ,europe1 #i ,wor/$1 9 ,norfolk1 a new me?od ( c>d+ wool !re1 #fe ,york ca!dral ve/m5ts1 #fg1 #gb ,pr9cess ,elizabe? (1 h] velvet g[n1 #gb ,yprs1 n orig9 ( "n ( diap]1 #cc l95s1 #fh ,,s\? ,,k5s+ton ,,museum ,,art ,,h&books4 ,,edit$ ,,by ,,william ,,maskell4 #a4 ,,textile ,,fabrics4 ,by ! ,v ,rev4 ,,daniel ,,rock1 ,d4,d4 ,) num]\s ,woodcuts4 #b4 ,,ivories1 ,,anci5t ,,& ,,m$i,,val4 ,by ,,william ,,maskell4 ,) num]\s ,woodcuts4 #c4 ,,anci5t ,,& ,,mod]n ,,furniture ,,& ,,woodwork4 ,by ,,john ,,hung]=d ,,poll54 ,) num]\s ,woodcuts4 #d4 ,,maiolica4 ,by ,c4 ,,drury ,e4 ,,=tnum1 ,f4,s4,a4 ,) num]\s ,woodcuts4 #e4 ,,musical ,,in/rum5ts4 ,by ,,c>l ,,engel4 ,) num]\s ,woodcuts4 ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,taylor ,,& ,,co41 ,,little ,,que5 ,,/reet1 ,,l9coln',s ,,inn ,,fields4 ,transcrib]'s ,notes ,punctuation1 hyph5ation1 & spell+ 7 made consi/5t :5 a pr$om9ant pref]5ce 0 f\nd 9 ! orig9al book2 o!rwise !y 7 n *ang$4 ,simple typographical errors 7 correct$2 unbalanc$ quotation m>ks 7 rem$i$ :5 ! *ange 0 obvi\s1 & o!rwise left unbalanc$4 ,! index 0 n fully *eck$ = prop] alphabetization or correct page ref]5ces4 ,9 ! ,li/ ( ,woodcuts1 ! ref]5ce to ! illu/ration on page #id 0 add$ by ! ,transcrib]4 ,page #ai3 80 repres5ts an 8r0 ) a tilde 802 80 repres5ts an 8s0 ) a tilde 804 ,pages #ai & #if3 ,lett]s prec$$ by 80 are sup]scripts4 ,pages #cf1 #cg1 #ch3 ! illu/rations on ^! pages are multi-"p symbols4 ,9 ! orig9al book1 !y 7 pr9t$ 9-l9e ) ! surr\nd+ text1 b 9 ?is e,book1 !y are %[n on l9es ( _! own4 ,page #aaj3 8,isotta da ,ram9i1 9 h] portrait by ,pietro della ,francesca0 0 pr9t$ t way1 z 0 8,cappaccio04