,transcriber ,note  ,text emphasis      
denoted by ,italics and ,bold4 ,whole   
and fractional parts of numbers as      
#ab-c_/d4                               
,,building                              
with ,,logs                             
,miscellaneous ,publication ,no4 #egi   
,u4 ,s4 ,department of ,agriculture     
,forest ,service   ,the art of log      
construction is relatively simple1 once 
a few basic principles are understood4  
,the pioneers who opened the lands      
beyond the eastern seaboard did not have
 boards with which to build such shelter
 as they needed4 ,logs were so plentiful
 in the forested area of our country    
that1 with their resourceful ingenuity1 
the settlers built their homes in       
conformity with those principles of log 
construction which prevailed in the     
countries from which they migrated4     
,those principles have remained the same
 down through the years4  ,the pioneer  
had but an ax for a tool and            
consequently made only those articles   

which could be hewed out of wood4 ,today
 there are many tools available1 and to 
do a first class job of log construction
 one must know how to handle the        
double-bitted or single-bitted ax1 the  
broadax1 saw1 adz1 chisel1 slick1 ship  
auger1 and drawknife4 ,in this bulletin 
it is assumed that the reader is        
familiar with the ordinary frame        
building methods used where wood is the 
principal construction material4        
,washington1 ,d4 ,c4 ,issued ,september 
#aide     ,,building ,,with ,,logs      
,by ,clyde ,p4 ,fickes1 ,engineer1 and  
,w4 ,ellis ,groben1 ,chief ,architect1  
,forest ,service     ,contents          
,page    ,building the foundation       
#a   ,preparing the logs                
#a   ,dimensions of the building        
#b   ,framing the corners               
#c     ,round-notch corner              
#d     ,other log corners               
#g   ,door and window jambs             
#ab   ,floor joists                     
#ab   ,laying the wall logs             

#ab   ,window and door openings         
#ad   ,window and door frames           
#af   ,roof framing                     
#bb     ,shake roofs                    
#bc   ,partitions                       
#bc   ,flooring                         
#bd   ,interior wood finishing          
#be   ,calking                          
#be   ,chinking                         
#bg   ,chinkless log cabin construction 
#bh     ,milled-log construction        
#ca   ,hewing timbers                   
#ca   ,fireplace framing                
#ca   ,oiling and painting              
#ce   ,the finished structure           
#ce   ,furniture                        
#ci     ,chairs and stools              
#ci     ,bed and bunk                   
#ci     ,chest and buffet               
#dg     ,settee                         
#dg     ,dining table                   
#di     ,table1 bench1 book rack1 and   
wood hod            #ej   ,building     
plans                                   
#ec   ,additional information           

#ef    ,,building ,,the ,,foundation    
,a building should have a good          
foundation1 and a log structure is no   
exception to the rule4 ,for the sake of 
economy in labor and material it is     
sufficient1 in some instances1 to place 
small buildings on piers of concrete or 
rough native stone1 but usually it will 
be more satisfactory to use continuous  
walls of stone masonry or concrete to   
provide uninterrupted support for the   
logs and thus avoid their tendency to   
sag4 ,these walls1 however1 should be   
provided with small openings for the    
circulation of air to prevent the wood  
from dry rotting4 ,furthermore1 the     
continuous foundation wall has the      
additional advantage of preventing      
rodents from getting under the building4
 ,in no case should the logs be placed  
directly upon the ground since wood     
tends to decay when in contact with the 
earth4  ,the two end walls of the       
exterior foundation should be higher    
than the side walls in order to offset  

the difference in level of the logs on  
adjacent walls1 the end-wall logs being 
half their thickness higher than those  
on the side walls4  ,in building a log  
wall the chief problem is in closing the
 opening between each pair of logs4     
,there are various ways of doing this1  
but only those regarded as most         
satisfactory will be described in this  
publication4 ,the width of such openings
 is affected by several factors3 7#a7   
,the manner of placing the logs upon    
each other2 7#b7 the type of corner used
 where two walls meet2 7#c7 the openings
 for doors and windows2 and 7#d7 the    
natural shrinkage of wood in the process
 of drying4     ,,preparing ,,the ,,logs
   ,the selection of straight1 smooth1  
even-sized logs is the prime            
consideration 7fig4 #a74 ,top diameters 
should be as uniform as possible1 but as
 a rule not less than #aj nor more than 
#ab inches4 7,slightly smaller or larger
 dimensions may be used if no others are
 available47 ,the taper should be as    

slight as possible4 ,for logs longer    
than #dj feet1 the top diameter may be  
less than #aj inches in order to avoid  
an excessive diameter at the large or   
butt end4  ,illustration3 ,figure       
#a4--,starting to build the log         
cabin--laying the foundation4  ,cedar1  
pine1 fir1 and larch1 in the order      
named1 are most desirable for log       
construction4 ,all knots1 limbs1 or     
bumps should be trimmed off carefully   
when the log is peeled4 ,it is best to  
cut the logs in late fall or winter1 for
 two important reasons3 7#a7 ,logs cut  
in spring or summer peel easier1 but    
crack or check to an undesirable degree 
while seasoning4 7#b7 ,insect activity  
is dormant during the winter months2    
hence1 if the logs are cut and seasoned 
then1 they are less liable to damage by 
insects or rot-producing fungi4  ,logs  
should be cut1 peeled1 and laid on skids
 well above the ground for at least #f  
months before being placed in the       
building4 ,this may not always be       

possible1 but it is a good rule to      
follow4 ,logs should be stored in a     
single deck with #b or #c inches between
 them to permit complete exposure to the
 air4 ,logs having a sweep or curve     
should be piled with the curve uppermost
 so that their weight will tend to      
straighten them while they are drying4  
,where the skidding space is limited1   
logs may be double-decked1 using poles  
between tiers4 ,unrestricted air        
circulation materially aids seasoning4  
,sort the logs carefully before starting
 construction1 using the better ones in 
the front or other conspicuous walls of 
the building4 ,if the logs are not      
uniform in size1 the larger ones should 
be placed at the bottom of the walls4   
,,dimensions ,,of ,,the ,,building      
,for practical reasons the dimensions of
 a log building are the inside          
measurements taken from one log to the  
corresponding log in the opposite wall4 
,outside dimensions vary somewhat with  
the size of the logs1 thus accounting   

for the use of inside measurements4     
,where projecting corners are desired1  
logs should be at least #f feet longer  
than the inside dimensions of the       
building4 ,in erecting the walls1 the   
logs should be kept even or plumb on the
 inside faces if it is desired to finish
 the interior with wallboard or plaster4
     ,,framing ,,the ,,corners   ,the   
corner is one of the most important     
aspects of log construction4 ,on it the 
appearance and stability of the         
structure depend4 ,different types of   
corner construction are in use in the   
,united ,states1 each varying in        
accordance with local building customs  
or individual taste4  ,illustration3    
,figure #b4--,the round-notch or saddle 
corner4 ,this is an unusually fine      
example of scribing and fitting logs    
together4 ,the square-cut logs have yet 
to be dressed and shaped with the ax to 
give them a pleasing appearance4        
,illustration3 ,figure #c4--,ranger     
station1 ,gallatin ,national ,forest1   

,mont41 illustrating effective use of   
round-notch corners4 ,a1 and ,b1        
,dwelling under construction2 ,c1 barn4 
,round-,notch ,corner  ,the round-notch1
 or saddle1 corner 7fig4 #b7 is         
generally considered the most           
satisfactory from every standpoint4     
,this type of corner gives the most     
distinctive appearance because the logs 
project sufficiently beyond the corner  
not to appear dubbed off 7fig4 #c74 ,it 
is a good1 self-locking1 mechanical     
joint1 relatively easy to construct1 and
 holds the logs rigidly in place4       
,illustration3 ,figure #d4--,method of  
marking saddle corners4  ,in cutting the
 saddle1 the material is taken out of   
the under side of the upper log without 
disturbing the top surface of the bottom
 log4 ,all the moisture thus drains out 
at the corner and1 consequently1 the    
wood is much less subject to decay than 
if other types of corners were used4    
,the shrinkage in the outer area of the 
log's circumference tends to open up the

 space between the logs4 ,finally1 in   
the round-notch corner1 one-half of the 
shrinkage between the logs is allowed to
 remain in the corner4 ,the separation1 
therefore1 is not as great as if each   
log had been cut down to the heartwood1 
a disadvantage common to most other     
types of corners4  ,the tools required  
to make a round-notch or saddle corner  
are3 ,a pair of log dogs to hold the log
 in place1 #aj- or #ab-;inch wing       
dividers with pencil holder and         
level-bubble attachment1 sharp ax1      
#b-;inch gouge chisel with outside      
bevel1 crosscut saw1 spirit level1 and  
plumb board4 ,the framing of this       
corner1 described in figure #d1 should  
be relatively easy4  ,illustration3     
,figure #e4--;,chopping the notch in a  
saddle corner4  ,first1 the bottom logs 
should be set in place on opposite sides
 of the foundation4 ,hew a flat face of 
#b to #c inches in width on the under   
side of the log where it rests on the   
foundation1 so that it will lay in      

place4 ,then place the bottom log on    
each end-wall and accurately center it  
so that the inside face of all four logs
 is to the exact interior dimensions of 
the building4 ,dog the logs into place  
so they will not move while being marked
 for the corner notch4 ,the wing divider
 is now set for one-half the diameter of
 the side log4 ,with the lower leg of   
the divider resting on the side of the  
under log and the other leg1 with the   
level-bubble uppermost1 resting against 
the bottom of the upper log and directly
 above the lower log1 start moving the  
divider upward1 with a side motion1 so  
that the lower leg follows the curvature
 of the under log4 ,the pencil point of 
the upper leg makes a mark on the       
surface of the upper log which will be  
the intersection of the surfaces of the 
two logs when the notch has been cut    
from the upper one4 ,repeat this        
operation four times to mark all four   
sides of the corner4 ,a little practice 
will make you adept at keeping the      

points of the divider perpendicular to  
each other4  ,after the notch has been  
marked at both ends of the log1 turn it 
over on its back4 ,it is a good idea to 
intensify the divider mark with an      
indelible pencil so that it will be     
easily followed4 ,chop the notch out    
roughly1 as illustrated in figure #e1   
then chip down as closely as possible to
 the mark1 supplying the finishing      
touches with a gouge chisel4 ,the       
finished notch should be cupped out just
 enough to allow the weight of the log  
to come on the outside edges1 thus      
insuring a tight joint4  ,when the next 
side log is rolled into place1 the      
dividers should be set apart for the    
width of the space between the top of   
the first and the bottom of the         
following log1 and the marking repeated 
as before4 ,if you wish to have the     
upper log ride the lower one a little1  
so that an especially tight joint is    
obtained1 the dividers should be set a  
little wider apart than the space       

actually requires4   ,other ,log        
,corners  ,the dovetail1 or box1 corner 
7figs4 #f and #g7 is a strong corner1   
and considerable experience is required 
in order to make a neat-looking job4    
,this type has several undesirable      
features3 7#a7 ,the logs are apt to     
develop a wide crack because the corner 
is framed from the part of the log in   
which the least shrinkage occurs1 and   
7#b7 since the logs are hewed down to   
form the corner1 the wood has a tendency
 to collect and retain moisture which   
soon results in decay4 ,also1 this      
corner detracts noticeably from the     
loggy appearance so characteristic and  
desirable in log structures4 ,the       
drawings in figure #f show the most     
practical methods of marking and framing
 the dovetail1 or box1 corner4  ,the    
flat1 or plain1 tenon corner 7fig4 #h71 
is also common4 ,it may be made in two  
ways4 ,in one1 only the bearing surfaces
 are framed1 while in the other1 all    
four sides of the tenon are framed flat4

 ,the plain tenon corner does not have  
the highly desirable feature of being   
self-locking4 ,however1 it is simple to 
make and economical1 and therefore      
especially suitable for temporary       
structures4 ,the logs must be pinned    
together1 as shown in figure #aa4 ,all  
the framing can be done on the ground1  
before the logs are put in place4       
,carefully fitted1 this makes a         
neat-looking job4  ,directions for      
constructing the flat1 or plain1 tenon  
corner4--,square one end of log1 as in  
figure #h1 at point ,a1 then measure    
required length and saw the opposite end
 square1 at ,b4 ,if the log has any     
curvature1 turn it on the skids until   
its back is up4 ,determine the thickness
 of the tenons1 based upon the average  
top and butt diameters of the log4 ,then
 take an #ah-;inch length of board the  
same width as the thickness of the      
tenons1 driving a nail through its      
center and into the center of the log4  
,place the spirit level on top of the   

board and mark lines on the log at the  
top and bottom edges4 ,the width of a   
tenon varies with the diameter of the   
logs2 #h- to #aj-;inch diameters will   
produce #f- to #g-;inch wide tenons4    
,illustration3 ,figure #f4--,marking and
 framing the dovetail1 or box1 corner4  
,illustration3 ,figure #g4--,ranger     
,station1 ,lolo ,national ,forest1      
,mont4 ,note the meticulous construction
 of box corners4  ,illustration3 ,figure
 #h4--;,framing the flat1 or plain1     
tenon corner4  ,nail a #a inch by #a    
inch cleat on the pattern board to      
points ,c and ,d and then make saw cuts 
on each end1 cut chip off and smooth the
 surface4 ,turn log over and repeat on  
the other side4 ,after framing out the  
sides of the tenon1 the log is ready to 
be placed on the wall4 ,some fitting    
between corners is usually necessary    
but1 if the logs are fairly straight and
 smooth1 the work will be minimized4    
,the upright1 or groove-and-tenon1      
corner 7fig4 #i7 is used to a           

considerable extent in the ,west4 ,it   
has desirable features from a mechanical
 standpoint3 7#a7 ,the weight of the    
building is carried on the full length  
of the logs and does not rest solely on 
the corners1 as in other types1 and 7#b7
 it makes a tight wall because no       
openings will develop between the logs4 
,although not difficult to construct1   
the upright corner requires considerable
 mechanical skill and accuracy4 ,a good 
carpenter can frame the entire building 
on the ground before any logs are placed
 on the foundation1 after which it can  
be erected in a very short time4 ,next  
to the round-notch corner the upright1  
or groove-and-tenon corner1 probably has
 the best appearance4  ,illustration3   
,figure #i4--;,framing the upright1 or  
groove-and-tenon1 corner4     ,,door    
,,and ,,window ,,jambs   ,door and      
window jambs should be framed just like 
the corners except that only the back   
should be grooved4 ,the door side1 or   
face1 may be rabbeted or left smooth so 

that a separate wood door stop may be   
nailed in place4 ,if the logs are       
reasonably dry1 from #c to #d inches    
should be left at each corner for       
settlement due to shrinkage2 otherwise1 
more or less space should be allowed1 as
 conditions require4 ,in about #f months
 the cap log will come down and close   
this gap4 ,similar provisions should be 
made for settlement over door and window
 openings4     ,,floor ,,joists   ,as   
soon as the first round or tier of logs 
is laid1 the floor joists should be set 
in place1 notching them into the bottom 
side logs4 ,if the building has a       
continuous masonry foundation1 the      
joists may be set on top of it1 as in a 
frame building4  ,in order that the ends
 of the joists may have sufficient      
bearing on the wall1 it is necessary    
either to notch the ends into the side  
logs or hew the latter off on the       
inside4 ,a simple method is to cut the  
notches in the side logs before they are
 rolled into place4 ,pole joists should 

be from #d to #h inches in diameter and 
hewed level on the upper side to provide
 a solid bearing for nailing the        
flooring4 ,several different ways of    
framing the floor joists are shown in   
figure #aj4     ,,laying ,,the ,,wall   
,,logs   ,in laying the successive      
rounds of logs in the walls1 several    
details must be observed to keep them   
lined up so that the top logs form a    
level seat for the roof framing4 ,the   
corners should be kept as level as      
possible as each round is laid4 ,this   
can be done by measuring vertically from
 the top of the floor joists1 from time 
to time1 as a check4 ,a variation of #a 
inch in height will not cause a serious 
difficulty4  ,the height of the corner's
 is regulated in two ways3 7#a7 ,by     
increasing or decreasing the depth of   
the notch1 and 7#b7 by reversing the top
 and butt ends of the logs when laying  
them in the wall4  ,the logs should be  
fitted together as tightly as possible4 
,in the case of somewhat irregularly    

surfaced logs1 it may be necessary to   
smooth off certain portions of the under
 side of the upper log to secure a tight
 fit4 ,only in exceptional instances1   
however1 should this be done to the top 
of the lower log4  ,the face of the logs
 on the inside of the building must be  
kept plumb1 that is1 in the same        
vertical plane4 ,an ordinary            
carpenter's1 or spirit1 level may be    
used1 but a #f- to #h-;foot plumb board 
is considered most satisfactory because 
of its greater length4  ,the logs should
 be pinned together with a wooden pin or
 large spike 7fig4 #aa74 ,spiking is    
done by boring a #c_/d-;inch hole       
halfway through the upper log and       
continuing with a #g_/af-;inch hole     
through the bottom half4 ,then drive a  
#aj- or #ab-;inch spike into place1 or  
until it penetrates half the next log   
below4 ,the spikes should be staggered  
in alternate rounds or tiers of logs4   
,if wooden pins are used1 fir or oak    
logs are preferable4 ,neither wooden    

pins nor spikes1 however1 offer         
interference to the settling of the     
walls4  ,illustration3 ,figure          
#aj4--;,framing floor joists4  ,the     
spike method is easier and quicker1 and 
just as satisfactory as the wooden pin4 
,the logs should be pinned approximately
 #b feet from each corner and at each   
side of the window and door openings4   
,for small structures1 where the        
alignment of the walls is not so        
important1 pinning may be eliminated1   
but it is essential to align larger     
buildings accurately in order to prevent
 individual logs from springing out of  
place4  ,illustration3 ,figure          
#aa4--,pinning logs together4  ,where   
the use of logs having a decided curve1 
or sweep1 is unavoidable they should be 
set in the wall with the bow or back up4
 ,such logs may be straightened by      
making enough saw cuts in the upper side
 of the curved surface to allow them to 
straighten out4 ,the cuts should be from
 one-third to one-half the depth of the 

log1 or slightly more1 if necessary     
7fig4 #ab74  ,illustration3 ,figure     
#ab4--,straightening a curved log4      
,,window ,,and ,,door ,,openings        
,early ,american log structures were    
characterized by relatively dark        
interiors because window openings1      
designed for protective purposes1 were  
small and far apart4 ,since protection  
is no longer a consideration1 window    
frames may be of standard size and      
located where they are most suitable for
 adequate day lighting4  ,as soon as the
 first round of logs and the floor      
joists are laid in place1 mark the      
location of door and window openings on 
the inside face4 ,next saw out the door 
openings and chop out the notch in the  
doorsill log to within an inch of the   
true or finished line1 as shown in      
figure #ac4 ,leave final cutting of the 
openings to the exact dimensions until  
the window and door frames are to be    
placed in position1 thus insuring a good
 finished wood surface4 ,also1 determine

 the height of the openings above the   
floor line and mark them in figures on  
the bottom log for reference from time  
to time4 ,the necessary cuts should be  
made in the log directly over each      
opening before placing it in position4  
,when the log which carries the window  
frame is reached1 a notch must be made  
for it as for the doors4  ,illustration3
 ,figure #ac4--;,cutting window and door
 openings4  ,to provide the necessary   
doors and windows1 openings must be cut 
in the walls after the logs have been   
placed in position4 ,as soon as a log in
 the wall is cut in two1 the problem    
arises of how to hold the loose ends in 
place4 ,also1 the doors and windows     
require the proper kind of frames to    
insure airtight closure between the     
latter and the ends of the wall logs4   
,the most practicable and satisfactory  
method is to frame a vertical notch in  
the ends of the wall logs1 into which   
can be fitted a spline attached to the  
back of the jamb or side-pieces of the  

door and window frames4 ,this method of 
framing holds the wall logs in place1   
allows them to shrink and settle without
 hindrance1 and makes a weathertight    
joint between them and the door and     
window frames4 ,the vertical notch in   
the end of the wall logs may be framed  
by boring a #b-;inch auger hole in each 
log as it is laid in place4 ,the hole   
should be located so that1 when the wall
 logs are sawed out for the opening1 the
 saw cut passes down through the edge of
 the hole nearest the opening4 ,it is   
then a simple matter to frame the notch 
to take the spline4 ,the inside face of 
the notch can be left rounded and the   
spline chamfered to fit4 ,to keep the   
holes in line from log to log1 use the  
plumb board illustrated in figure #ad4  
,illustration3 ,figure #ad4--,method of 
marking openings4     ,,window ,,and    
,,door ,,frames   ,there are two ways of
 making window and door frames--in three
 pieces 7two side jambs and one head    
jamb71 or in four pieces 7two side      

jambs1 one head jamb1 and a sill piece74
 ,when a three-piece frame is used1 the 
bottom log of the opening is cut or     
shaped to make the window or doorsill   
and the jamb pieces are then fitted to  
the sill4 ,if the jambs are framed from 
pieces of log slabbed on two opposite   
sides1 a presentable frame in keeping   
with the log character of the structure 
is obtained4 ,the window or door face of
 the jamb pieces may be rabbeted for the
 windows and doors1 respectively1 or    
they may have separate wooden pieces1   
known as stops1 nailed on4 ,the spline  
on the back of the jamb may be rabbeted 
out1 or a #b inch by #b inch piece of   
straight-grained wood nailed on4 ,the   
head jamb can be framed in the same way2
 it does not require a spline on the    
back4 ,each side jamb has a dowel framed
 on each end4 ,the bottom dowel fits    
into a mortise in the sill and the top  
dowel into a similar mortise in the head
 jamb4  ,illustration3 ,figure          
#ae4--,window frames4  ,in a four-piece 

frame1 the sill log is cut with a slope1
 in the customary way1 and the jambs are
 fitted as for a three-piece frame4     
,figure #ae illustrates the installation
 of three- and four-piece window frames4
  ,when the head jamb or top log over   
the opening is reached1 the frames are  
ready for installation4 ,the opening is 
now cut out1 the sill fashioned1 the    
vertical spline slot framed1 and the    
head jamb log cut out to fit over the   
opening4 ,at this point1 the amount of  
settlement resulting from the shrinkage 
of the wall logs1 as they dry out1 must 
be determined and a corresponding       
allowance provided in the opening4 ,this
 allowance is made between the upper    
side of the headpiece of the frame and  
the bottom of the log directly over the 
opening1 and should be from #b-a_/b to  
#d inches for a door #f feet #h inches  
to #g feet in height1 or #a-a_/b to #c  
inches for an ordinary double hung      
window4 ,the log over the opening should
 be notched out on the under side so    

that it can be dropped in place after   
the frame has been set in position4     
,when the type of window or door frame  
here described is used1 neither outside 
nor inside casings1 sometimes called    
wood trim1 are required4 ,the logs      
selected for the jamb material should be
 from #b to #c inches larger in diameter
 than the wall logs1 in order to fit    
properly4 ,also1 they will be much      
easier to work if well-seasoned 7fig4   
#af74  ,illustration3 ,figure #af4--,log
 jamb window frame4  ,illustration3     
,figure #ag4--,typical log-wall section1
 taken through window4  ,if standard    
mill work frames are used1 false side   
jambs of sawed material1 usually        
#b-;inch planks1 should be fitted in the
 openings to hold the logs in place4    
,for a wall made of #aj-;inch logs1 a   
plank #b inches by #aj inches should be 
used for the jambs and the standard     
frame fitted in place between them after
 providing the necessary allowance for  
the wall logs to shrink or settle4 ,the 

head casing ordinarily will cover the   
space allowed for shrinkage4  ,some kind
 of insulating material which will take 
compression1 such as crumpled           
newspapers1 asbestos wool fiber1 or rock
 wool1 may be used to fill the space    
over the head allowed for settlement4   
,insulating material must be installed  
loosely1 so as not to take any weight as
 the headlog gradually settles4         
,illustration3 ,figure #ah4--,various   
ways of framing eaves4 ,despite the fact
 that sawed rafters1 as shown above1 are
 often used for convenience in framing  
the roof1 sawed or milled material is   
incongruous in appearance in the        
exterior of log buildings ,hence1 pole  
rafters1 hand-made shakes1 and similar  
hand-riven features are preferred4  ,for
 the log-type frame1 copper or          
galvanized steel flashing should be     
fastened to the bottom of the cut in the
 top log1 leaving the lower edge of the 
flashing free to slide on the face of   
the log head jamb4 ,as the wall settles1

 the bottom of the flashing can be      
trimmed off if too much of the face of  
the head jamb is covered4 ,this makes a 
weathertight joint and protects the     
insulating material with which the      
shrinkage space has been filled4 ,see   
figure #ag1 ,head section4              
,illustration3 ,figure #ai4--;,framing  
log purlins for shakes4     ,,roof      
,,framing   ,roofs may be framed in     
several ways1 depending upon the kind of
 material available and the appearance  
desired4 ,the framing for a shingle     
roof1 whether of sawed material or round
 poles1 is done in the same way as that 
of a frame building4 ,the top log on the
 wall may be cut with a flat seat for   
the rafters to rest upon1 as at ,y1 in  
figure #ah1 ,a or notched out to receive
 them as at ,z in figure #ah1 ,b4 ,the  
gable ends may be run up with the logs1 
which is preferable for architectural   
appearance1 or framed like the gables of
 a frame structure1 and then covered    
with wood siding1 shingles1 or shakes   

7fig4 #ai74  ,the shingles may be laid  
over sheathing boards in the usual      
manner or on shingle strips placed      
across the roof rafters1 parallel with  
the ridge and exactly spaced to receive 
them1 commonly known as barn-fashion4   
,the particular method to be followed in
 framing the eaves depends largely upon 
their projection4 ,where the effect of a
 considerable overhang is desired1 an   
eave purlin log may be used to support  
the projecting shakes as shown in figure
 #ai1 ,a4 ,to support #cj- to #cf-;inch 
long shakes having a #f-;inch lap1 the  
log purlins should be spaced at         
approximately #bd-;inch intervals1 as in
 figure #ai4 ,in regions of heavy snows1
 the eave log may be placed slightly    
forward to help support the overhang1 or
 an additional eave log may be placed in
 position1 as shown in figure #ai1 ,b4  
,the gable logs should be run up at the 
same time as the roof logs1 and both    
rigidly framed together4  ,illustration3
 ,figure #bj4--,splitting shakes with   

the froe4     ,shake ,roofs  ,it is     
often desirable to use hand-split shakes
 for the roof covering4 ,these are      
usually made from cedar1 but may be of  
any straight-grained wood1 free from    
knots1 which splits easily4 ,first1 the 
logs are cut in lengths of #cj to #cf   
inches and then the shakes are split off
 with a tool called a froe 7fig4 #bj74  
,after the log cuts are set on end1 the 
froe is held on the upper end of the    
block and then struck a blow with a     
wooden maul which causes a piece of the 
block or shake to split off4 ,being     
hand-split1 the thickness varies        
somewhat2 the minimum is #a_/b inch4 ,a 
roof of thin shingles1 lacking          
sufficient scale1 is never as effective 
as a rough textured one1 using #c_/d- to
 #a-a_/d-;inch thick shakes1 to         
harmonize with the sturdy appearance of 
the log walls4 ,the width1 normally #f  
to #h inches1 is governed by the size of
 the blocks of wood and varies          
accordingly1 while the length is        

governed by the spacing of the roof logs
 or purlins4 ,shakes are always laid on 
the purlins in single courses1 lapping  
the sides #a-a_/b to #b inches and      
over-lapping the ends at least #f       
inches1 as illustrated in figure #ai4   
,nailing is usually done with six- or   
eight-penny galvanized box nails4       
,copper nails may be used for greater   
permanence4 ,a good shake roof will not 
leak although from the inside of the    
building it may appear to have many     
holes4  ,the ordinary1 uninteresting1   
straight-line effect at the butts may be
 broken up by staggering them from #a to
 #b inches1 as is often done with       
shingles4 ,this method produces an      
effect more in keeping with the log     
walls4 ,although involving greater care 
and additional labor it is preferable1  
from an architectural point of view1 to 
the more common custom of laying them to
 uniformly straight lines4  ,at the     
ridge of the roof1 where the shingles or
 shakes intersect1 provisions must be   

made for weatherproofing4 ,the shingled 
,boston ridge1 comb intersection1 or    
pole ridge1 shown in figure #ba are     
practical and much more satisfactory    
from the standpoint of architectural    
effect than stock metal ridges1 ridge   
boards1 and other methods4              
,illustration3 ,figure #ba4--,ridge     
treatments4   ,,partitions   ,if the log
 building is to be divided into several 
rooms1 at least two different methods   
may be used to construct the partition  
walls4 ,if the log construction plan is 
to be carried throughout the structure  
by using interior log-wall partitions1  
these should be laid out and framed in1 
and the door openings cut in the same   
manner as previously described for      
exterior walls4 ,if a log partition     
comes at a place in a cross wall where  
it is not considered desirable to have  
the log ends project into the room      
beyond the opposite face of the wall1   
they may be sawed off flush with the    
face of the cross wall1 as shown at ,x1 

figure #bb1 ,plan ,a4 ,this will not    
weaken the joint since the logs are both
 pinned and locked in place4            
,illustration3 ,figure #bb4--;,interior 
partitions4  ,where frame partitions are
 used1 they should be constructed as in 
a frame building4 ,a gain or a #c- to   
#d-;inch deep groove should be cut in   
the log wall into which the end studding
 of the frame partition is to be set    
7fig4 #bb1 ,plan ,b74 ,the cut should be
 made in each log before it is placed in
 the wall4 ,in no case should the       
studding at the ends of the partitions  
be nailed to the log walls which they   
intersect in order not to interfere with
 or be affected by their shrinkage and  
settlement4     ,,flooring   ,a subfloor
 should be laid first using shiplap or  
sheathing4 ,over this a finished floor  
of such hardwoods as maple or oak1 or   
the harder softwood species such as     
,douglas-fir1 western larch1 or southern
 pine1 may be laid4 ,vertical grain and 
flat grain may be had in both softwood  

and hardwood1 but the vertical grain    
shrinks and swells less than the flat1  
is more uniform in texture1 wears more  
evenly1 and the joints open much less4  
,finished flooring consists or          
tongue-and-groove material of various   
thicknesses and widths4  ,despite a     
slight tendency to splinter and wear    
irregularly over a period of years1     
plain wide planking of random-width     
boards makes an appropriate floor for a 
log building4 ,an attractive effect may 
be had by using screws instead of nails1
 countersunk to a depth of #a_/b inch   
and concealed by inserting false wooden 
dowels glued in place as shown in figure
 #bc1 ,b4 ,keying the boards together   
with wood keys1 at random along the     
edges1 adds to the attractiveness of the
 flooring4     ,,interior ,,wood        
,,finishing   ,hanging doors and        
windows1 and many other customary       
details of building construction should 
be done in the usual manner in building 
with logs4 ,whenever cupboards or other 

built-in units are constructed1 they    
must be framed to be independent or     
entirely free of the log walls1 like the
 furniture4 ,however1 such fixtures as  
lavatories may be attached to two       
adjacent logs without any subsequent    
structural complications4               
,illustration3 ,figure #bc4--;,flooring4
 ,a1 ,plain tongue and groove2 ,b1      
random-width planking4     ,,calking    
,when round logs are laid up in a wall  
there is always an opening between them 
unless they are grooved on the under    
side to saddle the one below1 as        
described later under chinkless log     
cabin construction4 ,in exterior walls1 
this opening1 or crack1 must be closed  
in order to make the structure          
weathertight4 ,there are several methods
 of doing this4 ,if the logs are        
reasonably straight and uniform in size 
and the corners carefully made1 the     
opening between them will be small1     
often barely perceptible4 ,when this is 
the case1 the openings should be filled 

with some sort of calking compound      
applied with either a pressure gun or a 
trowel 7fig4 #bd74  ,illustration3      
,figure #bd4--;,examples of tight joints
 well calked4 ,a1 ,interior calking2 ,b1
 exterior calking4  ,in recent years    
several kinds of calking material have  
been put on the market4 ,they are       
applied best with a gun having a        
pressure-release trigger whereby the    
calking compound is forced through a    
nozzle made in various shapes and sizes 
to meet different requirements4 ,these  
calking compounds are not adversely     
affected by heat or cold1 retain their  
natural flexibility1 and have an        
adhesive property which causes them to  
adhere to the surface to which they are 
applied4  ,a good plastic compound will 
adhere to the logs under all conditions 
and can be patched easily by simply     
applying more material4 ,a black fiber  
seal is not objectionable and1 at the   
same time1 gives a practical finish4    
,the seal should be applied to both     

sides of the exterior and interior log  
walls1 producing an almost hermetically 
sealed building4 ,when applied with a   
pressure gun having a #c_/h-;inch       
nozzle1 #a gallon will fill about #cjj  
linear feet of opening4 ,if applied in  
cold weather1 the material should be    
heated to a temperature of #fj;,f4      
,,chinking   ,when using logs that are  
somewhat rough and irregular in shape1  
the resulting space between them may be 
so large that the calking material      
cannot be used satisfactorily to fill   
the opening4 ,in such cases1 it will be 
necessary to insert chinking1 which     
usually is applied to the interior and  
exterior walls in one of two ways3  #a4 
,split chinking4--,segments of a log are
 split out in sizes which fit the       
opening and1 after being carefully      
shaped with the ax to make a tight fit1 
are securely nailed in position4 ,this  
kind of chinking requires considerable  
work and patience to secure a good      
appearance4  #b4 ,pole chinking4--,small

 round poles may be used to fill the    
openings 7fig4 #be74 ,usually they are  
cut in sizes and lengths to fill the    
opening from wall to wall4 ,this sort of
 chinking may be applied rapidly to     
either inside or outside walls and makes
 a neater job than the preceding method4
 ,unless the logs are thoroughly        
seasoned these small poles sometimes    
have a tendency to pull away from the   
nails4 ,when the chinking has been      
completed1 the openings will have been  
reduced sufficiently in width to allow  
the calking material to be applied      
successfully4  ,illustration3 ,figure   
#be4--,pole chinking4  ,it is always a  
serious problem in log construction to  
devise a practical method for           
permanently fastening the plaster       
daubing in place on both inside and     
outside walls4 ,in some instances1      
shingle nails may be driven into the    
logs #b to #c inches apart for the full 
length of the opening or #b-;inch wide  
strips of metal lath may be used and the

 plaster applied to fill it4 ,cattle    
hair may be added to the plaster to     
increase its adhesive consistency and   
thereby hold it more rigidly in place4  
,sometimes1 wood strips are nailed on   
the lower log to hold the plaster in    
position1 as shown in figure #bf1 but   
they are unsightly4  ,illustration3     
,figure #bf4--,wood daubing strips4     
,,chinkless ,,log ,,cabin ,,construction
   ,chinkless construction1 associated  
with the building of log structures in  
,scandinavian countries1 eliminates the 
chinking and mudding so prevalent in    
many log buildings4 ,it consists of     
grooving the under side of every log in 
each tier so that it saddles the log    
beneath1 making a close joint for its   
entire length4 ,the groove is marked by 
a tool which1 for convenience1 may be   
called a cabin scribe or a drag 7fig4   
#bg74  ,directions for chinkless log    
cabin construction4---,mark and cut out 
the notch just as is done for a         
round-notch corner4 ,next1 dog the log  

in place and scribe1 making the         
additional mark shown by dash line 7,x1 
fig4 #bg74 ,then1 cut to line and1      
finally1 drop log in position4  ,the    
scribe is #ab inches long1 made         
preferably of #c_/h-;inch square steel  
or iron bent in much the same manner as 
the spring in a steel trap2 the two ends
 are turned down about #a-a_/b inches   
like two fingers1 diverging to about    
#c_/d of an inch at the points1 and then
 sharpened with a flat surface on the   
inside of the point toward the loop4    
,the loop should be hammered out thin to
 provide sufficient flexibility to allow
 the points to spread or close easily4  
,a ring is welded around the two halves 
of the tool which1 when slipped up or   
down1 makes it possible to adjust the   
points and thereby prevent any further  
spreading while the tool is in use4 ,a  
link from a small chain1 placed over the
 legs before the points are turned1 will
 serve the same purpose and1 to prevent 
the points from springing together1 a   

small piece of wood may be forced       
between them4  ,illustration3 ,figure   
#bg4--;,chinkless log cabin             
construction4  ,to fit a log1 first     
frame it at the ends and then fit it    
down to within about #b inches of the   
lower log where the opening is the      
widest ,it is difficult to do a good job
 of scribing when the logs are too close
 together4 ,the scribe must then be     
adjusted at the point where the opening 
is the widest so that1 when holding the 
tool parallel to the opening1 the lower 
point of the scribe will ride on the    
surface of the bottom log4 ,by exerting 
sufficient pressure1 the upper point    
will score the top log4 ,repeat this    
operation to score the upper log on the 
other side4 ,the corner tenons must be  
marked likewise4 ,next1 turn the log    
over1 work the tenons down and then cut 
a ,v-shaped groove to the marked lines  
in the remaining portion of the log1    
using a double-bitted ax4 ,this groove  
should be cut deep enough along its     

center to permit the outer edge of the  
groove to rest continuously on the lower
 log4 ,by removing the least amount of  
wood to make the smallest possible      
groove1 the closest fit is obtained with
 the least effort4  ,illustration3      
,figure #bh4--;,fine example of         
milled-log construction--ranger's       
dwelling1 ,whitman ,national ,forest1   
,oreg4  ,the principle of the scribe is 
based on parallel lines1 and it can     
readily be seen that if there is a hump 
on the lower log there will have to be a
 gouge in the upper one4 ,when the work 
is done carefully1 the space remaining  
is negligible4 ,where an airtight wall  
is desired1 a strip of plumber's oakum  
should be laid on the bottom log before 
the upper log is dropped into place4 ,if
 this material is not available1 dry    
moss is a fairly practical substitute4  
,milled-,log ,construction  ,sometimes  
it is feasible to take advantage of a   
portable mill to face the logs on three 
sides rather than to hew them by hand4  

,the level beds seat the logs so well   
that calking is minimized1 the smooth   
interior surfaces permit of easy        
finishing1 particularly where wood      
wainscoting or plaster is used1 while   
the round-log exterior effect is        
undisturbed1 except where the logs      
project at the corners4 ,figure #bh     
illustrates a structure built in this   
way4     ,,hewing ,,timbers   ,the      
facing or hewing of round timbers to    
obtain one or two sides surfaced flat   
for framing purposes1 as shown in figure
 #bi1 requires considerable skill in the
 use of the ax and broadax4 ,there are1 
however1 a number of mechanical aids    
7fig4 #cj7 which should be used by      
anyone undertaking log construction in  
order to simplify the work as much as   
possible4 ,the carpenter's spirit level1
 the steel square1 and chalk line and   
chalk are necessary for laying off the  
lines to be followed in hewing timbers4 
,in framing logs they should be laid up 
on skids1 or sawhorses1 dogged fast in  

place with iron dogs1 and the dimensions
 laid off on each end of the log with   
the level and square to insure that the 
lines are parallel to each other4 ,then1
 with the chalk line1 carefully snap    
lines on the side of the log connecting 
corresponding points at each end4 ,for  
squaring the ends of a log and cutting  
pole rafters1 use the miter box to guide
 the saw4 ,to measure lengths accurately
 the steel tape1 or a board pattern cut 
to the exact length1 may be used4       
,,fireplace ,,framing   ,the living-room
 fireplace1 invariably the most         
prominent interior feature1 harmonizes  
best with a log interior if built of    
stone and provided with a crude log     
shelf4 ,the fireplace itself may be     
either the traditional masonry type or  
the more modern metal-lined one equipped
 with a heatilator4  ,the masonry of the
 fireplace and its chimney should always
 start on solid earth1 below the frost  
line1 like the foundations of the       
building itself4 ,masonry does not      

settle1 unlike the surrounding log      
construction4 ,consequently1 it is      
recommended that a self-supporting log  
framing be built around and entirely    
free of the masonry of the fireplace and
 chimney1 as illustrated in figure #ca4 
,the opening should be framed in the    
same way as window and door openings4   
,the fireplace and chimney masonry      
should not be erected until the opening 
has been framed for it4 ,upon           
completion1 the intersection between the
 stone and wood should be thoroughly    
calked to make an airtight1 weatherproof
 job4 ,this method allows the wall logs 
to settle1 because of the unavoidable   
shrinkage1 without structural failure4  
,illustration3 ,figure #bi4--;,framing  
hewed timbers4  ,illustration3 ,figure  
#cj4--,mechanical aids in cutting       
timbers4 ,method3 ,cut both miter boxes 
at angle ,x for #a_/c pitch4 ,fasten    
them securely to the floor or to a log1 
used as a sawhorse1 and space exactly   
the required distance apart to insure   

that all rafters are cut alike4 ,then   
place each rafter in the boxes1 back    
down if any curvature exists1 dog       
rigidly in place and saw to the pattern4
  ,line ,a represents the exterior wall 
face and1 if sawed off on line ,b1      
parallel with the wall face1 overhang of
 eave will be #a foot1 #f inches4 ,any  
desired overhang may be had and sawing  
eliminated by fixing the distance ,c4   
,the irregularly hewed rafter end is    
preferable to the uniform elliptical    
saw-cut ends4 ,finally1 hew the upper   
surface of the rafters to a smooth even 
bearing to receive the roof sheathing   
boards4  ,illustration3 ,figure         
#ca4--;,framing around the fireplace4   
,framing logs around fireplace and      
chimney varies with the effect desired3 
7#a7 ,by using an exposed vertical      
slabbed log and spline1 as at ,a1 with  
space ,x1 to allow for the shrinkage    
settling of the logs above the mantel1  
or 7#b7 by using a concealed vertical   
slabbed log and spline1 as at ,b1 where 

the masonry is exposed above the mantel4
  ,illustration3 ,figure #cb4--;,a      
useful type of modern log               
dwelling--ranger station1 ,gallatin     
,national ,forest1 ,mont4  ,in building 
an ordinary fireplace1 the firebox and  
inner hearth should be made of firebrick
 to withstand intense heat and the      
various parts proportioned in accordance
 with standard practice to insure       
efficient operation4#a  #a ,for this    
purpose the following publication will  
be found useful3 ,farmers' ,bulletin    
#ahhi1 ,fireplaces and ,chimneys4  ,the 
heatilator is a built-in recirculating  
steel unit consisting of metal sides and
 back to form a heating chamber1        
adjacent to the fire pit1 which draws   
cold air through a register at each side
 near the floor and after the air is    
heated ejects it through similar        
registers above4 ,it should be installed
 in conformity with the manufacturer's  
directions1 taking care to select a     
stock-size unit suitable for the        

dimensions of the fireplace opening and 
to erect the surrounding masonry        
accordingly4     ,,oiling ,,and         
,,painting   ,after all the openings    
have been properly calked and the logs  
brushed clean1 it is often desirable1   
although not absolutely necessary1 to   
treat the log surfaces with some sort of
 preservative material4 ,logwood oil is 
excellent for the exterior4 ,the        
colorless variety is preferable in most 
cases but1 if some color is desired1 add
 just enough burnt umber1 or raw sienna 
paste1 to give the proper shade4 ,for   
interior finish1 apply a coat of clear  
shellac and then one or two coats of    
dull varnish4 ,the trim can be treated  
in a similar manner to preserve the     
pleasing effect produced by the natural 
surface and color of the wood4     ,,the
 ,,finished ,,structure   ,examples of  
modern log construction are shown in    
figures #cb1 #cc1 and #cd4 ,early types 
of log structures are illustrated in    
figure #ce4  ,illustration3 ,figure     

#cc4--,modern structures showing        
effective use of log construction in    
recreation buildings on national forests
 in ,montana4 ,a1 ,dude ranch2 ,b and   
,c1 recreational and mess hall1 ,seely  
,lake4  ,illustration3 ,figure          
#cd4--,organization camp at ,seely ,lake
 showing log work ,in greater detail4   
,a1 ,entrance wing2 ,b1 cabin group4    
,note the wedges under porch post to    
provide for settling of walls4 ,wedges  
are gradually driven out as necessary4  
,illustration3 ,figure #ce4--;,early    
types of log structures built by the ,u4
 ,s4 ,forest ,service in the ,west4 ,a1 
,ranger station1 ,gallatin ,national    
,forest1 ,mont42 ,b1 ranger's dwelling1 
,nezperce ,national ,forest1 ,idaho2 ,c1
 log cabin in ,arizona4     ,,furniture 
,the matter of interior furnishings is  
always of great concern to those who    
build log cabins4 ,odds and ends or too 
many what-nots may prove to be misfits4 
,pieces of ,early ,american design are  
perhaps the most appropriate ready-made 

furniture1 but sturdy1 rustic pieces    
yield the greatest satisfaction4  ,many 
cabin owners have found a great deal of 
pleasure in making essential furniture1 
such as bunks1 beds1 tables1 chairs1    
settees1 and similar items4 ,in the     
,east1 birch is preferred as a material1
 and in the ,west1 lodgepole pine is    
most satisfactory4 ,other native        
species1 however1 will do just as well4 
,in making furniture it is advisable to 
remove the bark from the logs because   
bark collects insects1 causes the wood  
to deteriorate and eventually falls off1
 leaving imperfect1 unsightly surfaces4 
,figures #cf and #cg show types of      
furniture suitable for log residences4  
,for rustic effects1 the use of a stain 
of the following proportions gives a    
satisfactory appearance3 #b quarts      
turpentine1 #b quarts raw linseed oil1  
and #a pint liquid drier1 to which add  
#a_/b pint of raw sienna1 #a_/b pint of 
burnt umber1 and a touch of burnt       
sienna4 ,the top surfaces of tables1    

buffets1 chests1 and rawhide seats      
should have two coats of spar varnish4  
,where countersunk screws are used in   
connection with a stain finish1 insert  
false wood1 dowel-like plugs in         
preference to plastic wood to conceal   
the screwheads4  ,simplicity1 both in   
construction and appearance1 is the     
keynote for producing the most          
harmonious effects in furniture1 in     
keeping with log interiors4   ,chairs   
and ,stools  ,armchairs can be built    
with well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern 
pine1 or birch 7fig4 #ch74 ,the         
cornerpieces should be mortised and     
tenoned to the frame and rail and       
anchored in place with #c_/h- by        
#ae-;inch lag screws4 ,the arms should  
be fastened to the cornerpieces with    
#c_/h- by #e-;inch carriage bolts and to
 the slab support with #c_/h- by        
#d-;inch lag screws4 ,the vertical slab 
support should be rigidly secured to the
 frame with #c_/h- by #c-;inch carriage 
bolts4 ,cushions may be of the filler   

type1 without springs1 and covered with 
homespun fabric4 ,use #b-;inch wide     
heavy canvas strips1 securely fastened  
with furniture tacks1 to support the    
cushions4  ,upright chairs and stools   
7fig4 #ci7 can be made from the same    
material as the armchair4 ,cross the    
poles to impale the legs rigidly4 ,the  
crosspieces of the chair back should be 
curved to fit the human back4 ,the      
joints must be tightly glued1 mortised1 
and tenoned4  ,illustration3 ,figure    
#cf4--;,furniture suitable for log      
cabins--convenient1 sturdy1 and easy to 
make4 ,a1 ,bed2 ,b1 bed and armchair4   
,illustration3 ,figure #cg4--;,a1       
,dining table appropriate for log cabin2
 ,b1 book rack and hod4  ,illustration3 
,figure #ch4--,plan for making an       
armchair suitable for log residence4    
,illustration3 ,figure #ci4--,plan for  
making an upright chair and stool4      
,illustration3 ,figure #dj4--,plan for  
making a double bed for log residence4  
,bed and ,bunk  ,birch or well-seasoned 

lodgepole or eastern pine is suitable   
for making a bed or bunk4 ,in making a  
bed 7fig4 #dj7 the crosspieces should   
impale the corner posts tightly2 the    
joints should be glued and toe-nailed   
from below4 ,do not cut the side or end 
pieces until the bedspring has been     
measured and then allow for a slight    
play in both directions in setting the  
angle irons1 in order to facilitate the 
insertion and removal of the mattress4  
,use #ad- by #c-;inch carriage bolts to 
fasten the angle irons to the wood      
frame4 ,figure #dj is a plan for making 
a double bed #e for a single bed1 reduce
 the width accordingly4  ,a double-deck 
bunk is made in much the same way as a  
bed 7fig4 #da74  ,illustration3 ,figure 
#da4--,plan for building a double-deck  
bunk4  ,illustration3 ,figure           
#db4--,plan for making a combination    
chest and buffet4   ,chest and ,buffet  
,no log residence is complete without   
furniture for storing clothes4 ,a       
combination chest and buffet suitable   

for log cabins can be made from         
well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern pine1
 tamarack1 or birch 7fig4 #db74 ,the    
ends1 doors1 shelves1 and drawer fronts 
should be cut from ,no4 #b              
tongue-and-groove commercial pine       
lumber4   ,settee  ,a settee can be made
 from well-seasoned pine or birch 7fig4 
#dc74 ,join the corner poles to the slab
 frame and rail with mortise-and-tenon  
joints2 then anchor the joints by means 
of #c_/h- by #f -inch lag screws4       
,fasten the arms to the corner poles    
with #c_/h- by #e-;inch carriage bolts  
and to the slab support with #c_/h- by  
#d-;inch lag screws4 ,use #c_/h- by     
#c-;inch carriage bolts to fasten the   
slab support to the frame4 ,the #a- by  
#b-;inch hardwood crosspieces should be 
securely fastened at the top ends and   
notched into the legs at the bottom     
ends1 held by #b-;inch wood screws1     
driven into place at an angle4 ,back    
slats should be mortised and tenoned to 
the rail and frame4 ,the cushions should

 be the filler type1 without springs if 
so desired1 and covered with homespun   
fabric4  ,illustration3 ,figure         
#dc4--,plan for making a living-room    
settee4  ,illustration3 ,figure         
#dd4--;,dining table plan4              
,illustration3 ,figure #de4--,plan for  
making benches4   ,dining ,table        
,peeled pine or birch is ideal material 
for building a dining table 7fig4 #dd74 
,make a tight saddle joint between ,b   
and the legs4 ,cross poles to impale the
 legs tightly4 ,notch ,e for the cross  
poles4 ,upper surface of ,c should be   
slab-faced and fitted between ,d and    
cross poles1 all rigidly braced         
together4 ,top pieces of tables should  
be doweled at places indicated in the   
drawing with #a_/b- by #d-;inch wood    
dowels1 glued and clamped to insure     
tight joints4 ,notch top pieces ,a      
#a-;inch deep to receive ,b and ,d4 ,top
 outside edges of ,a1 ,c1 and ,e should 
be hewed4  ,illustration3 ,figure       
#df4--,plan for a book rack4   ,table1  

,bench1 ,book ,rack1 and ,wood ,hod     
,well-seasoned lodgepole or eastern     
pine1 tamarack1 cedar1 or birch are     
suitable for benches 7fig4 #de74 ,the   
joints should be glued4 ,countersink any
 screws1 then conceal the heads with    
false wooden dowel-like plugs4 ,if the  
furniture is to be painted1 use plastic 
wood4 ,a book rack may be made of the   
same material used for the bench1 except
 cedar1 which is unsuitable 7fig4 #df74 
,the sides and bottom shelf should be   
rabbeted and thoroughly glued4 ,the two 
intermediate shelves can be made        
adjustable by boring #c holes in each   
side-piece #b inches apart1 above and   
below the position shown for the shelves
 in figure #df1 into which loose wooden 
pins may be inserted for their support4 
,screw the top in place1 countersink    
screwheads and insert wood cover plugs  
or false dowels for concealment where   
stained finish is used4 ,if painted1    
plastic wood may be used4               
,illustration3 ,figure #dg4--,plan for a

 fireplace wood hod4  ,a fireplace wood 
hod 7fig4 #dg7 may be made of wood and  
metal4 ,use well-seasoned lodgepole or  
eastern pine1 tamarack1 or birch4 ,make 
a tight cradle joint between horizontal 
and vertical side-pieces1 using #ad- by 
#b-;inch carriage bolts except that by  
#c-;inch lag screws should be used for  
fastening the lower side-pieces and     
bottom4 ,secure the wrought-iron handle 
to each side toppiece with #c- by       
#a-a_/b-;inch carriage bolts4 ,the wood 
sides should have hewed edges of #c_/d  
inch minimum thickness4  ,illustration3 
,figure #dh4--;,floor plan for a        
four-room log residence4     ,,building 
,,plans   ,selection of the site and    
preparation of building plans varies    
with individual taste4 ,in choosing a   
location one must consider availability 
of transportation1 shopping centers1    
water supply1 sewage disposal1 electric 
facilities1 and kindred factors4        
,illustration3 ,figure #di4--;,floor    
plan for a four-room log residence with 

somewhat different orientation than that
 shown in figure #dh4  ,before          
undertaking construction it may be      
desirable to consult an architect or    
competent builder to make sure that 7#a7
 your desires are satisfied with respect
 to the necessary accommodations2 7#b7  
rules and regulations enforced by local 
authorities will be observed2 and 7#c7  
provisions are made for installing      
telephone1 electricity1 water1 and      
plumbing facilities4 ,failure to take   
these precautions may necessitate costly
 changes after construction has begun4  
,plans for suitable four-room log       
residences are given in figures #dh and 
#di1 and for a five-room structure in   
figure #ej4 ,figure #ea shows the layout
 of a ,united ,states ,forest ,service  
two-room guard cabin adaptable for      
summer residence use4  ,illustration3   
,figure #ej4--;,floor plan for a        
five-room log residence1 including three
 bedrooms1 living-room1 kitchen1 and two
 porches4  ,illustration3 ,figure       

#ea4--,u4 ,s4 ,forest ,service two-room 
fireguard cabin adaptable for summer    
residence use4   ,,additional           
,,information   ,additional useful      
information on building log cabins may  
be obtained from the following          
publications3   ,,united ,,states       
,,department ,,of ,,agriculture         
,,fireplaces ,,and ,,chimneys4 ,farmers'
 ,bul4 #ahhi1 #eb pp41 illus4 #aidj4    
,,protection ,,of ,,log ,,cabins1       
,,rustic ,,work1 ,,and ,,unseasoned     
,,wood ,,from ,,injurious ,,insects4    
,farmers' ,bul4 #aehb1 #bj pp41 illus4  
#aibi4  ,,use ,,of ,,logs ,,and ,,poles 
,,in ,,farm ,,construction4 ,farmers'   
,bul4 #affj1 #bf pp41 illus4 #aica4     
,,other ,,sources  ,,log ,,buildings4   
,wis4 ,agr4 ,col4 ,ext4 ,stencil ,cir4  
#aeh1 #ci pp41 illus4 #aidj4  ,,log     
,,cabin ,,construction4 ,a4 ,b4 ,bowman4
 ,mich4 ,state ,col4 ,ext4 ,bul4 #bbb1  
#ed pp41 illus4 #aida4  ,,log ,,cabins  
,,and ,,cottages2 ,,how ,,to ,,build    
,,and ,,furnish ,,them4 ,w4 ,a4         

,bruette1 ed4 #if pp41 illus4 ,new      
,york4  ,,the ,,real ,,log ,,cabin4 ,c4 
,d4 ,aldrich4 #bgh pp41 illus4 #aicd4   
,new ,york4  ,,shelters1 ,,shacks1 ,,and
 ,,shanties4 ,d4 ,c4 ,beard4 #bdc pp41  
illus #aicb4 ,new ,york4                
,u4 ,s4 ,,government ,,printing         
,,office3 #aied                  ,for   
sale by the ,superintendent of          
,documents1                     ,u4 ,s4 
,government ,printing ,office           
,washington #be1 ,d4 ,c4 -- ,price #be  
cents                      99       99  
99       99       99   ,,to ,,keep ,,the
 ,,trees ,,growing  ,here in the ,united
 ,states we are cutting trees faster    
than new ones are growing for the       
future4 ,and because science is showing 
us how to use wood better and in new    
ways we are likely to want more trees in
 the future than we use today4 ,in fact 
we must double the annual growth of     
usable wood4 ,this can't be done easily 
or quickly4 ,it will require decades of 
good forestry4 ,so we must take steps   

now--    ,to protect all our forests    
well from fire1 insects1 and disease2   
,to stop wasteful and destructive       
cutting2    ,to keep plenty of trees of 
all sizes growing to replace those we   
cut2    ,to restore commercial tree     
growth on millions of acres of forests  
that have been badly treated or burned2 
,to give farmers and other small owners 
more help in growing1       harvesting1 
and marketing their tree crops2    ,to  
put wild land into public forests when  
private owners cannot take       care of
 it or the public interest calls for    
special treatment4                      
99       99       99       99       99  
,transcriber ,notes   ,all illustrations
 were moved so as to not split          
paragraphs4