,hathi,trust ,digital ,libr>y47 ,illu/ration3 ,y\rs truly1 ,edw9 ,cre] ,,bo>d-,,"w2 ,,or ,,! ,,art ,,( ,,wig-,,mak+1 ,,etc4 ,,design$ ,,= ,,! ,,use ,,( ,,hairdress]s ,,& ,,especially ,,( ,,"y ,,m5 ,,9 ,,! ,,trade4 ,,to ,,:i* ,,is ,,add$ ,,rem>ks ,,^u ,,razors1 ,,razor-,,%>p5+1 ,,razor ,,/rops1 ,,miscellane\s ,,recipes1 ,,specially ,,select$4 ,,by ,,edw9 ,,cre]1 ,,editor ,,( 8,,! ,,hairdress]s' ,,*ronicle10 ,,au?or ,,( 8,a ,,popul> ,,treatise ,,on ,,! ,,human ,,hair10 8,,lessons ,,9 ,,hairdress+10 ,,etc4 ,,) ,,portrait ,,& ,,num]\s ,,illu/rations4 ,,london3 ,r4 ,,hov5d5 ,,sons1 #ca #cb1 ,,b]n]s ,,/reet1 ,w41 ,,& #ia1 #ic1 #ie1 ,,city ,,road1 ,e4,c4 #ahhg4 ,,london3 ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,w]!im]1 ,,lea ,,& ,,co41 ,,circus ,,place1 ,,london ,,wall4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,preface4 ,! foll[+ "w1 :i* is ! result ( mu* anxi\s /udy & lab\r1 is design$ to meet a long-felt want4 ,x is int5d$ *iefly = ! use ( appr5tices1 improv]s1 & o!rs 9 ! trade ^: k ( bo>d-"w is defici5t4 ,! ,au?or tru/s t ! ef=ts he has ?us made to dissem9ate s\nd & useful in=mation w be appreciat$ by ^? = :om ! book is int5d$4 ,! great] portion ( ! matt] has be5 already publi%$ 9 ,! ,hairdress]s' ,*ronicle1 b = ! purposes ( ?is "w x has be5 c>efully collat$1 revis$1 & additions made1 s t ! subject might be pres5t$ to ! trade 9 a complete =m4 ,no?+ ( importance to le>n]s has be5 omitt$1 & ! ,au?or has dwelt1 ) repeat$ emphasis1 ^u items :i* might be consid]$ by "s1 z m9or details2 b e skill$ workman kn[s h[ necess>y x is = pupils to be well gr\nd$ 9 ! rudim5ts ( _! art4 ,x may be tak5 = grant$ t he :o habitually pays att5tion to small matt]s 9 connection ) 8 bus9ess1 w be ! "o mo/ dep5d$ ^u by 8 employ]4 ,b ! advantage to be d]iv$ f su* a c\rse ( action does n end "h1 = %\ld he emb>k 9 trade1 ! c>eful & pa9/ak+ man is m likely to meet ) a la/+ success4 8,any?+ wor? do+1 is wor? do+ well10 _c be too deeply impress$ ^u ! m9d1 & ^? :o /udi\sly reg>d ! maxim w take a pride 9 all !y und]take4 ,undue ha/e 9 production mu/ ne$s make c>eless workm51 &1 p]haps1 excessively ke5 competition lies at ! bottom ( all4 ,! ,au?or has reason to "k t a fair p]c5tage ( ! public does n object to giv+ a reasonable price = a good article1 & x is wor? :ile to cultivate su* a class ( cu/om]s4 ,! tradesman1 h[ev]1 mu/ fir/ acquire ability 9 8 special walk 9 life2 no ef=t %\ld be sp>$ to secure ! confid5ce ( 8 patrons by upright deal+3 ?us x is t reputations are made & su/a9$4 ,! public exp]i5ces no difficulty 9 procur+ *eap articles2 ^? :i* are good 9 quality & reasonable 9 price may n be s easily obta9able4 ,all ?r\gh ?is "w1 ! ,au?or has /r5u\sly urg$ ! read] to produce sup]ior "w z a tradesman1 & to practise fair deal+ z a man1 & if ^! pr9ciples be act$ ^u1 ! /ud5t1 = ^: b5efit ?is treatise is design$1 _c fail to pr(it by ?is endeav\r to s]ve him4 ,:5 ! pres5t phases ( bus9ess1 & ! ke5ness ( competition are borne 9 m9d1 ! importance ( e p]son acquir+ k 9 8 craft w at once be appreciat$4 ,9 no s5se m =cibly ?an ?is does ! tru? ( ! adage apply1 t 8,k is p[]40 ,augu/1 #ahhg4 ,,cont5ts4 ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,page ,introduction--,a ,sci5tific ,description ( ,hair--,*9ese & ,japanese ,hair--,*iffoni] ,hair--,wa/e ,hair--,turn$ ,hair--,comb+s--,be/ ,quality ,hair--,! ,hair ,m>ket 9 ,brittany--,dr4 ,l9demann's ,greg>9e--,! 8,*ignon ,fungus0--,cutt+s #a ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,! ,implem5ts ,us$ 9 ,prep>+ ,hair--,! ,prep>ation ( ,hair ,describ$--,wa%+ ! ,hair--,dry+ ! ,hair--,draw+ ! ,hair--,nitt+ ! ,hair--,c>d+ ! ,hair--,curl+ ! ,hair--,boil+ & ,bak+ ! ,hair #ah ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,! ,prep>ation ( ,hair 7cont9u$7--,crop ,hair--,a ,rem>kable ,trial--,crap+ & ,crimp+ ! ,hair--,ins]t$ ,/ems--,boil+ & ,bak+ ,crp$ ,hair--,comb+s & ,turn$ ,hair allud$ to aga9 #bi ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,dye+ ! ,hair--,( ,hair-dyes g5]ally--,p[d] ,dyes--,liquid ,dyes--,iron ,dyes--,lead ,dyes--,v>i\s op9ions conc]n+ ! use ( ,lead ,dyes--,silv] ,dyes--,dye+ ,false & ,fad$ ,hair--,blea*+ & ,blan*+ ,hair #db ,,*apt] ,v4 ,! ,fir/ ,lesson 9 ,wig-mak+1 ,weav+ ! ,hair--8,once ,910 ,close or ,r+let ,weft--8,twice ,910 or ,front ,weft--8,?rice ,910 ,crop1 or ,wig ,weft--8,fly0 ,weft1 = ,top ,r[s--,mak+ ,r+let ,bun*es--,tufts--,curls on ,combs--,alex&ra ,curls #eg ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,mak+ ,twi/s1 8,tails10 or ,swit*es--,back & ,side ,plaits--,*ignon ,univ]sel--,! ,zephyr ,coiffure--,semi-wav$ ,curl$ ,*ignon--,a ,novel ,*ignon--,( ,*ignons 9 g5]al #gc ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,scalpettes & ,fr+es2 g5]al rem>ks !reon--,curl$ & ,wav$ ,fr+es--8,wat] ,waves0--,m\nt+ & ,mak+ ,scalpettes #ig ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,! ,*angeability ( ,fa%ion--,b&eaux1 ,fronts1 & ,fillets--,pla9 ,b&eaux--,wav$ ,b&eaux1 ) ,fr+e--,to ,wave ! ,hair ( ,b&eaux--,fr5* 7wov57 ,fronts--,fr5* 7wov57 ,fronts ) ,p>t+--,diamond-%ap$ & ,w+ ,fronts--,temple-m\nt$ ,fronts--,fillets or ,cauls #aae ,,*apt] ,,ix4 ,g5]al ,obs]vations on ! ,manufacture ( ,p>t+s & ,cr[ns--,non-transp>5t ,p>t+s2 ,silk & ,sk9--,transp>5t ,p>t+s2 ,net1 ,gauze1 ,yak1 & ,human ,hair ,f\ndations--8,! ,g5ealogy ( ,implantation0--,knott+1 & "s rem>ks !reon--,s+le ,knott+--,d\ble ,knott+ #adc ,,*apt] ,x4 ,( ,wigs 9 ,g5]al1 & "s ,hi/orical rem>ks !reon--,on ,tak+ an ,ord] = a ,wig or ,scalp--,means adopt$ = secur+ !m to ! ,head--,directions = ,measurem5t--,on ,m\nt+ & ,mak+ a ,scalp--8,p5-knife0 & ,metallic ,spr+s--,a ,scalp describ$ ) ,p>t+ & ,cr[n--,scalps ) ,gauze1 ,net1 & ,human ,hair ,f\ndations #aeg ,,*apt] ,,xi4 ,( ,g5tlem5's ,wigs1 & a few additional obs]vations !reon--,to make a /rong & durable ,wig ) wov5 ,hair ?r\gh\t--,m\nt+ a ,wig--,! ,metallic ,spr+ aga9--,v>i\s k9ds ( ,net us$--,caution aga9/ us+ too mu* ,hair--,sew+ on ! ,weft--,! ,cr[n made ) ,weft--,! ,p>t+ =m$ ) ,weft--,press+ ! ,"w--,( ,ela/ic ,spr+s--,! ,wig complet$ #aha ,,*apt] ,,xii4 ,( ,g5tlem5's ,wigs 7cont9u$7--,diff]5ce betwe5 ,wov5 & ,knott$ ,wigs consid]$--,in/ructions = ,mak+ a ,knott$ ,wig--,( ! ,p>t+ & ,cr[n--,( ! ,cr[n only--,press+1 ,dress+1 etc4--,a ,sup]ior k9d ( ,wig ,describ$1 & ,mak+ ! same--,! ,transp>5t ,p>t+ & ,cr[n--,sundry ,important ,details #aie ,,*apt] ,,xiii4 ,( ,ladies' ,wigs1 & important rem>ks !reon--,( ,m\nt+ & ,mak+ ,ladies' ,wigs--,a well-balanc$ ,wig ess5tial--,a ,wig ) ,p>t+ & ,/raight ,hair ?r\gh\t--,all ,weft to be conceal$--,alt]ations--,( ,wigs ) ,transp>5t ,p>t+s--,m\nt+ & ,mak+ ! same--,%ape ( ,head to be not$1 toge!r ) any ,elevations or ,depressions--,! ,wig-block %\ld be a correct ,model ( ! ,head #bji ,,*apt] ,,xiv4 ,! ,use ( ,lea!r ,roll]s 9 ,curl+ ,hair--,pap]+ & ,p9*+ ,hair ) ! same object 9 view--,plait+ ,hair 7= ,coiffures7--,( ,razors1 ,razor ,sett+1 & ,razor ,/rops--,miscellane\s ,recipes #bbj ,,illu/rations4 ,! f\r pages ( illu/rations are suppli$ = ! purpose ( giv+ ! le>n] "s designs to "w f1 &1 z fa%ions repeat$ly *ange1 ! ability to make up sundry pieces ( "w is necess>y & unque/ionably useful4 ,a brief description ( ! illu/rations w be f\nd at ! foot ( ea* page4 ,,bo>d-,,"w1 ,,or ,,! ,,art ,,( ,,wig-,,mak+1 ,,etc4 ,,*apt] ,i4 ,introduction--,a ,sci5tific ,description ( ,hair--,*9ese & ,japanese ,hair--,*iffoni] ,hair--,wa/e ,hair--,turn$ ,hair--,comb+s--,be/ ,quality ,hair--,! ,hair ,m>ket 9 ,brittany--,dr4 ,l9demann's ,greg>9e--,! 8,*ignon ,fungus0--,cutt+s4 8,bo>d-"w10 9 ! fulle/ ext5t ( its signification1 means all t :i* is done by clev] hairdress]s & wig-mak]s 9 ! work%op & at ! "w-table4 ,x comprises ! clean+ & prep>+ ( hair = ! articles int5d$ to be made2 weav+2 sew+ & knott+2 ! mak+ ( fronts1 b&s1 *ignons1 curls & twi/s ( v>i\s descriptions2 scalp-mak+2 ladies' & g5tlem5's wig-mak+2 & num]\s o!r matt]s ( detail 9 connection ) ! subject4 ,t a treatise on ?is subject is requir$ !re _c be a d\bt1 = :ile haircutt]s & %av]s cont9ue to increase1 ! clev] work] at ! bo>d1 to a c]ta9 ext5t at lea/1 is gradually disappe>+4 ,?is may be consid]$ a bold ass]tion1 b x is true nev]!less4 ,let me give an illu/ration 9 support ( ?is /atem5t1 & exp]i5c$ m51 d\btless1 w co9cide ) my op9ion4 ,x n unfrequ5tly happ5s t :5 a y\? has acquir$ a k ( m5's haircutt+ & %av+1 he ?9ks himself tol]ably clev] & able to get 8 liv+4 ,if he be well proportion$ & possess a k9dly disposition1 su* a y\? is sure to obta9 ! fav\rable consid]ation ( cu/om]s1 & come to believe1 p]haps1 t he is on ! road to compet5cy1 if n to =tune4 ,by ! "t he arrives at n9ete5 or tw5ty ye>s ( age he mo/ likely desires a *ange1 & seeks ano!r place1 & z he d\btless w get 8a rise10 "s enc\ragem5t is giv5 to 8 views by indiscreet acqua9tances4 ,num]\s adv]tisem5ts con/antly appe> = 8a good haircutt] & %av]1 ) a k ( bo>d-"w10 & ! "y man =?) applies = ! situation1 & obta9s x--! 8k ( bo>d-"w0 requir$ be+1 n unfrequ5tly1 ( a trivial & elem5t>y "*4 ,& ?us he goes on till opportunity (f]s = fur!r advancem5t1 or go+ into bus9ess1 :5 he discov]s ! want ( 8te*nical in/ruction40 ,un=tunately1 appr5tice%ip is ?\ght to be 8old-fa%ion$10 & a lad n[-a-days ?9ks he c acquire z mu* trade k 9 f\r ye>s z 8 ma/] did 9 sev54 ,b su* an idea is1 unmi/akably1 8a delusion & a sn>e10 & ?us x comes to pass t _m m5 seek to acquire at ?irty :at !y %\ld h le>nt t5 or a doz5 ye>s be=e4 ,! =ego+ rem>ks w\ld apply equally z well to o!r trades1 & ?\ghtful m5 reg>d ?is aspect ( affairs ) "s degree ( anxiety & appreh5sion1 h5ce ! desire = 8te*nical in/ruction10 promot$ z x is by "s ( ! ,city ,guilds4 ,i h reason to "k t ! book entitl$ 8,lessons 9 ,hairdress+0 is highly appreciat$ by _m1 bo? employ]s & employ$1 & ,i tru/ t 8,bo>d-"w10 :i* ,i %all endeav\r to make z complete z possible1 w be equally z acceptable to ! trade4 ,! lett]press descriptions w be giv5 9 a compreh5sive mann]1 & :]e ! intricacies are some:at complicat$ or obscure1 well-drawn illu/rations w accompany ! text4 ,to ^? :o wi% to take advantage ( my lab\rs1 ,i w briefly say t no "w1 h[ev] well writt5 & c>efully put toge!r1 w imp>t ability )\t practice4 ,practice mu/ be dilig5tly pursu$1 & ?\ghtfully br\ght to be> on ! in/ruction giv51 & a satisfactory result is sure to foll[4 ,z well might a p]son1 aft] read+ sundry works on music1 & becom+ acqua9t$ ) ! significations conta9$ !re91 expect pr(ici5cy on a musical in/rum5t1 z = any "o to ?9k ( mak+ a wig aft] read+ 8h[ x's done40 ,pr(ici5cy 9 any art or trade c only be acquir$ by application & h>d "w4 ,! in=mation x w be my pleasure to af=d1 c\pl$ ) ! indu/ry & p]sev]ance ( ! /ud5t1 mu/ produce "o result1 t be+ ( an em95tly satisfactory "*4 ,hair is ! sub/ance ) :i* my read]s h to deal1 & ! subject ,i h to write ab\t4 ,hair--! !me ( poets' song1 & ! ambition ( all true arti/s to well depict on canvas4 ,! cr[n+ glory ( woman is a f9e head ( hair1 & baldness only becomes age4 ,7 a p]son to ask1 8,:at is hair80 probably n9ete5 p out ( e tw5ty w\ld consid] him an ignoramus1 b only let ! qu]i/ press = a logical reply1 & he1 9 turn1 might reg>d o!rs 9 a simil> light4 ,^? employ$ 9 manufactur+ trades ought surely to "k "s p>ticul>s conc]n+ ! *ief mat]ial us$ 9 ! bus9ess 9 :i* !y are engag$4 ,unless ?is k be imp>t$ to ! appr5tice or j\rneyman1 te*nical in/ruction 9 any trade _c be complete4 ,physicians & surgeons und]go a long & anxi\s tra9+ be=e !y are qualifi$ to deal ) ! num]\s ills 8t fle% is heir to40 ,d5ti/s1 auri/s1 oph?almi/s1 *emi/s1 lawy]s1 & _m o!rs h to ma/] ! details ( _! respective occupations1 be=e !y are reg>d$ z compet5t m54 ,x is some:at surpris+ to witness ! intellig5ce & k br\ght to be> ^u sundry manufactures1 & a few visits to "s ( our work%ops & hives ( indu/ry 9 ,london & ! prov9ces1 w\ld prove a s\rce ( pleasure & in/ruction4 ,i ma9ta9 t a sci5tific z well z practical k ( ! mat]ials us$ 9 any occupation1 is ess5tial to ! welf>e ( ! clev] workman2 !re=e1 be=e proce$+ f>!r ) ! object ,i h 9 view1 ,i consid] x necess>y to answ] ! "q--,:at is ,hair8 ,hair is di/ribut$ ov] all p>ts ( ! body1 ) ! exception ( ! palms ( ! h&s1 soles ( ! feet1 & ! lips4 ,x gr[s abundantly ^u ! head & face1 & sp>+ly ^u ! trunk & limbs1 & accord+ to its location1 diff]5ces are obs]v$ 9 %ape1 size1 col\r1 & /ructure4 ,) ref]5ce to ! /ructure1 ,i may obs]ve t a hair has ?ree diff]5t modifications ( tissue1 viz41 its c5tre1 :i* con/itutes ! m$ulla1 or pi?1 & is a loose cellulat$ tissue2 t :i* encloses x =m+ a great] portion ( a human hair call$ a fibr\s tissue2 & ! out] %ea?1 cuticle or ext]nal surface1 :i* is ( a horny description4 ,hairs are some:at cyl9drical 9 %ape1 b n exactly r\nd1 & curly or wav$ hair is r flat4 ,sometimes a hair is describ$ z be+ holl[1 b ?is is incorrect1 = x n only has a cortical 7or ext]nal7 /ructure1 b a m$ull>y 7or int]nal7 sub/ance4 ,! fir/ is simil> to t :i* may be describ$ z ! b>k ( a tree1 & ! second to ! pi? ( vegetable sub/ances1 ! int]nal portions ( fea!rs1 or to ! m>r[ 9 bones4 ,b x is "r to obs]ve t :5 a hair is view$ "u a microscope ) a l[ p[] x appe>s d>k at ! sides & bright 9 ! middle1 & t appe>ance w\ld convey ! idea ( holl[ness4 ,?is impression prevail$ = a l5g? ( "t1 & ju/ifi$ ! humble b>b] 9 /at+ t 8! 'air ( ! 'ed 0 a 'oll[ tube40 ,he simply reit]at$ a /atem5t :i* o!r1 & probably wis]1 heads _h giv5 curr5cy to4 ,:5 ! cortical /ructure ( ! human hair is exam9$ x is f\nd to be jagg$ l ! tee? ( a saw1 & x is ow+ to ?is imbricat$ arrangem5t t hair feels r\gh to ! t\* :5 ! h& is pass$ f po9t to root4 ,! s]rat$ appe>ance ( hair is produc$ ?r\gh ! out] lay]1 or cuticle1 be+ compos$ ( flatt5$ cells1 or scales1 :i* ov]lap ea* o!r l ! scales ( fi%es1 only !y are n s regul>ly plac$4 ,! m$ulla1 also1 consi/s ( a numb] ( cells1 :i* c be se5 9 hair t has be5 /eep$ = a "t 9 soda or pota%4 ,^! ceils are f\nd to be angul> or r\nd$1 & if ! imm]sion has n be5 too prolong$1 w exhibit a nucleus1 & "o or m globules1 or granules ( fat4 ,! m$ulla =ms a d>k l9e pass+ along ! c5tre ( ! hair1 & occupies ab\t a f\r? or a fif? ( its ?ickness4 ,! m$ull>y l9e is abs5t 9 infants' hair1 & 9 v f9e light hair2 x is pres5t 9 /rong hair1 & is n difficult to trace 9 :ite or grey hair4 ,dr4 ,beigel obs]ves1 t 8we may drive out ! air conta9$ 9 ! c5tral tube--z ! m$ull>y has likewise be5 call$--& see x re-ent] aga9 "u ! microscope4 ,turp5t9e p5etrates all p>ts ( ! hair :i* are fill$ by air1 b its action is sl[ & requires "s "t4 ,if we put1 !re=e1 a hair into turp5t9e1 & all[ x to rema9 !re9 ab\t tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 & view x by ! microscope1 we f9d ! c5tral tube1 :i* 0 black be=e be+ act$ ^u by turp5t9e1 light1--p]fectly transp>5t4 ,b if we expose ! hair aga9 to a high temp]ature1 ! turp5t9e evaporates1 & is replac$ by air1 consequ5tly ! c5tral tube assumes its d>k appe>ance aga940 ,x is said t 8nature abhors a vacuum10 &1 x w p]haps be ?\ght t ! b>b]'s description ( a hair 0 n s v f> remov$ f ! tru? aft] all4 ,?is description ( hair is extract$ f a lecture :i* ,i deliv]$ to ! memb]s ( ! ,briti% ,hairdress]s' ,academy & _! fri5ds1 at ! ,rooms1 ,new ,bond ,/reet1 a few ye>s ago1 & ! importance ( a correct k ( ?is bran* ( ! subject w be app>5t be=e my book is end$4 ,e hairdress] kn[s t if 8 "w is to be good1 he mu/ use only hair ( ! be/ quality 9 8 bus9ess2 ,*9ese hair1 ,japanese hair1 8,*iffoni]0 hair1 8,wa/e0 hair1 8,comb+s10 8,root & ,po9t0 hair1 or 8,turn$0 hair1 h[ev] clev]ly x may be treat$ to produce f95ess 7be+ aft]w>ds dy$ p]haps to imp>t ! desir$ %ade or col\r71 c only br+ =? "o result1 & t ( an unsatisfactory "*4 ,competition1 & ! desire = *eapness1 fo/]$ z x is by ! encroa*m5ts ( o!r trades1 all t5d to ! manufacture ( goods 8to sell10 reg>dless ( any o!r consid]ation2 & ! introduction ( inf]ior mat]ial & workman%ip1 might ?us be acc\nt$ =4 ,! /udy ( hair1 & ! condition x %\ld be 9 :5 made up & (f]$ = sale1 is ( su* importance t ,i consid] "s fur!r rem>ks on ! subject necess>y4 8,if a ?+ is wor? do+ at all x is wor? do+ well20 !re=e ,i address myself to ^? :o take an int]e/ 9 ! bus9ess & desire to improve x1 m ?an ,i d to p]sons :o v5d almo/ any?+ 8= a consid]ation40 ,allusion has be5 made to v>i\s qualities ( human hair1 & ,i ref] to !m aga9 = ! purpose ( po9t+ out :at %\ld be avoid$ by respectable & reputable tradesm54 8,*9ese0 & 8,japanese0 hair is co>se1 /rong & abundant1 & unsuit$ to ! ,engli% p2 b x c be treat$ s z to make x passable among/ p]sons ( 8economic0 proclivities4 ,"o ?+ is c]ta91 & t is1 ,*9ese hair f9ds its way into ! m>ket1 = 9 #ahgb no less ?an #ajj1jjj lbs4 ( human hair 0 receiv$ at ,m>seilles1 ! pr9cipal portion ( :i* came f ! ,cele/ial ,empire4 8,p>is owns10 says ,mr4 ,p4 ,l4 ,simmonds1 9 8 excell5t book on 8,wa/e ,products & ,undevelop$ ,sub/ances10 8among its /reet curiosities1 a race z di/9ct f ! elem5ts ( social life z ! rov+ gipsies :o h clung toge!r & run ov] ,europe = c5turies4 ,consequ5tly1 its mann]s widely diff] f ^? ( ! common run ( mank9d4 ,^! het]oclites are a species ( night-birds ( ! human race2 ev]y?+ ab\t !m rem9ds y ( d>k %ades & fanta/ic silh\ettes2 !y sleep at daytime1 & spr+ out ( ! e>? :5 twilight sets2 no "o c\ld say :5ce !y come & :i!r !y g4444 ,!y move ab\t ! des]t$ /reets l a horde ( phantoms2 ! lant]ns !y hold %9e dimly & fluctuate to & fro 9 ess5tially sup]natural zigzags4 ,! *iffoni] has a basket /rapp$ to 8 %\ld]s2 he creeps along ! asphalte l a wolf 9 a %eepfold2 :oev] ignores 8 attributions w\ld ?9k him b5t on griev\s mis*ief2 he holds an iron hook1 & /ops at e heap ( rubbi%4 ,p>isians are /ill 9 ! habit ( accumulat+ _! refuse be=e _! doors4 ,! iron hook goes to "w busily 9 ! cabbage-leaf1 rag1 & brok5-glass hillocks1 :ile ! light ( ! lant]n %[s ! basket-own] :at is wor? tak+1 & !n ! hook transf]s ! rubbi% to ! basket ov] ! man's %\ld]40 ,among ! hundr$ & "o ?+s :i* ^! p f9d is 8wa/e10 or 8*iffoni]0 hair3 & reg>d+ ?is ,i w make a quotation f ano!r reliable s\rce4 ,m4 ,alphonse ,b\*>d1 writ+ on ! subject 9 ,! ,hairdress]s' ,*ronicle1 9 ! ye> #ahgc1 & at a "t :5 hair 0 sc>ce 9 consequ5ce ( ! !n prevail+ fa%ion1 says3-- 8,! hair t has fall5 (f is c>efully collect$ by m5 :o make ?is "w _! special bus9ess4 ,!y despise t :i* _! bre?r5 ( ! rag eag]ly se>* =4 ,bones1 rags ( e description1 fragm5ts ( cry/al1 brok5 glass1 old iron1 old newspap]s1 all ^! are neglect$ & despis$ by ^! specials4 ,see !m b5t ov] a pile ( rubbi%1 :i* (t5 conta9s little else b cabbage refuse & a few brok5 corks4 ,!y b5d ov] x & kneel ov] x z int5tly z if !y 7 look+ = ! philosoph]'s /one1 :5 sudd5ly we see !m draw f ! mid/ ! little balls ( hair :i* ne>ly e woman makes ( ! hair-comb+s4444 8,b let u foll[ ,m4 ,d5izet1 ! au?or ( a rem>kable "w on #8,wa/e ,hair1' 9 ^! developm5ts10 cont9ues ,m4 ,b\*>d4 8,?is writ] tells u t ! plaits or small *ignons1 & :i* are consequ5tly *eap1 weigh f #fj to #hj grammes1 & t 9 e "o ( !m !re is conta9$ hair f m ?an two hundr$ p]sons4 ,! foll[+ is _! orig9 & manufacture4 ,9 ! issues ( ! toilet ( ^! two hundr$ wom5 ( all ages & /ations1 ! hair ( ! middle-class woman is fir/ obs]v$4 ,^! wom5 are 9 ! habit ( roll+ ! comb+s ov] _! f+]s1 !n putt+ !m into a small piece ( pap]1 s t !y d n fly away1 & ?is hair is f\nd 9 ! sweep+s ( ! h\se4444 ,9 ! /ate 9 :i* ! hair leaves ! bag ( ! collector x seems good = no?+4 ,p 9 g5]al w\ld n l to t\* x1 & yet ( ?is refuse ! *eap po/i*es are made :i* adorn ! heads ( p]sons :o w n pay ! price ( hair cut (f f ! head40 ,9 speak+ ( ! sev]al op]ations :i* ?is hair has to g ?r\gh1 my e/eem$ ,p>isian correspond5t quotes ,m4 ,d5izet almo/ v]batim4 8,! wa/e1 seem+ly )\t value1 is sold at six francs a kilogramme to :olesale deal]s1 :o sell x aga91 j z x 0 pur*as$1 at n9e francs1 to small manufactur]s1 :o "w x1 & !n x is sold to c]ta9 hair-m]*ants1 :o 9 _! turn s5d x to small hairdress]s1 bo? at home & abroad4 ,! "w ( ! small manufactur] consi/s 9 five pr9cipal op]ations1 :i* are3--#a4 ,! ,cleans+4--,! hair is roll$ & twi/$ ab\t 9 sawdu/ to free x f dirt1 du/1 & grease4 ,x is !n op5$ by h&4 #b4 ,! ,comb+4--,! hair hav+ be5 well dis5tangl$1 /ret*$1 clean$1 & fre$ f grease1 by means ( black soap or c]ta9 *emical sub/ances1 is dri$1 & !n comb$ 9 l>ge c>ds ) iron po9ts1 ! same z are us$ = mattress-wool2 ?is op]ation is done v c>efully1 to prev5t ! hair f be+ brok54 #c4 ,turn+4#a--,/>t+ ^u ! pr9ciple t ! hair is a conical tube1 :i* tap]s (f f ! root to ! po9t1 a piece ( hair ( ! ?ickness ( a f+] is roll$ =w>ds & backw>ds betwe5 ! h&s4 ,! piece elongates1 ! hair go+ 9 diff]5t directions1 accord+ z ! root or po9t is situat$4 ,!y are !n easily sep>at$1 & put once aga9 root to root & po9t to po9t1 & ?is is ! reason :y x is call$ #8turn$ hair4' #d4 ,class+4--,!re are only ?ree l5g?s made ( ?is hair1 t :i* is us$ = plaits1 = *ignons ( all k9ds1 & = m5's wigs4 ,! refuse f ^! f\r op]ations is ab\t half ( ! :ole quantity 9 weight1 & is good = no?+4 #e4 ,pick+ ! ,col\r4--,?is "w requires ! mo/ pati5ce1 & is g5]ally p]=m$ by wom54 ,x consi/s 9 divid+ ! hair accord+ to col\rs4 ,z !re are sev5 pr9cipal col\rs & ?ree l5g?s1 ea* packet is divid$ into tw5ty-"o portions4 ,! %ades are :ite1 grey1 black1 br[n1 *e/nut1 blonde1 & r$4 ,! l5g?s v>y f tw5ty c5timetres to sev5ty c5timetres4 ,hav+ pass$ ?r\gh ^! diff]5t op]ations1 ! hair is ready = use 9 po/i*es40 ,f ab\t ?is "t1 !n1 8root & po9t0 hair1 8turn$0 hair1 & s =? came into requisition1 & ,engli% 8comb+s0 foll[$ z a matt] ( c\rse4 ,n[adays ladies save ! 8wa/e0 hair :i* has be5 remov$ by ! action ( comb & bru%1 & :5 ! mass has assum$ some:at l>ge proportions x is tak5 to a hairdress]'s to be made up1 & emanates !refrom 9 ! %ape ( a plait1 twi/1 c4 ,to %[ t ,i am n alone 9 reg>d+ ! use ( ?is inf]ior hair ) av]sion1 ,i w quote ! foll[+ f ! ,am]ican ,hairdress] & ,p]fum]3-- 8,?is fact alone1 namely1 ! g5]al & almo/ univ]sal use ( ! fil?y & unwieldy sub/itutes = fir/ quality cut hair1 kn[n z #8,italian1' #8ref9$ ,*9a1' #8unref9$ ,*9a1' #8,georgia' 7ref9$ ,*9a "u ano!r "n71 & all ! grades ( #8second' & l[] qualities1 all ?is has done m t[>ds disgu/+ our bett] class ( p 7^? :o h ! means at comm&7 ) we>+ false hair ?an any prevail+ /yle or notion c\ld h done40 ,!re is mu* tru? 9 ?is1 & ,i comm5d ! fur!r consid]ation ( ! subject to ! s]i\s att5tion ( all :o desire to advance & b5efit ! trade4 ,hav+ giv5 a description ( hair1 & spok5 disapprov+ly ( ! common] sorts1 ,i purpose consid]+ ! bett] qualities be=e deal+ ) m practical details4 ,if ! mak] ( an article wi%es 8 "w to be ( a sup]ior description he mu/ necess>ily conf9e himself to ! use ( good mat]ials1 & ! f9e quality ( ! hair us$ is ( ! greate/ importance4 ,i w obs]ve t hair %\ld always be cut f ! head1 = !n x is 9 good condition & v diff]5t to ! 8dead0 hair :i* is ?r[n (f daily by mo/ p1 & is n[ well kn[n "u ! common appellation ( 8comb+s40 ,hair ( ! be/ description is obta9$ f ,france & ,italy1 :5ce come sundry %ades ( black & br[n4 ,! fir/-nam$ c\ntry1 z well z ,g]many & ,sw$51 supplies ! m>ket ) br[n1 light1 flax51 & r$ hair1 :ile grey pieces are to be f\nd 9 mo/ p>cels1 consequ5tly its s\rce may be describ$ z univ]sal4 ,!re are regul> 8hair-h>ve/s10 & ag5ts or collectors travel f place to place at c]ta9 times1 = ! purpose ( obta9+ ! hair ( peasant-girls 9 ex*ange = money1 tr9kets1 or o!r articles ( p]sonal adornm5t4 ,mr4 ,francis ,trollope1 9 8 8,summ] 9 ,brittany10 gives an amus+ z well z int]e/+ acc\nt ( :at he obs]v$ at a fair 9 ,coll5e1 & its relation "h w be appropriate4 ,he says3--8,:at surpris$ me m ?an all1 by ! s+ul>ity & novelty ( ! ?+1 7 ! op]ations ( ! deal]s 9 hair4 ,9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! motley cr[d !re 7 ?ree or f\r pur*as]s ( ?is commodity1 :o travel ! c\ntry = ! purpose ( att5d+ ! fairs & buy+ ! tresses ( ! peasant-girls4 ,!y h p>ticul>ly f9e hair1 & frequ5tly 9 ! greate/ abundance4 ,i %\ld h ?\ght t female vanity w\ld h effectually prev5t$ su* a traffic z ?is be+ c>ri$ to any ext5t2 b !re seem$ to be no difficulty 9 f9d+ beautiful heads ( hair p]fectly will+ to sell4 ,we saw sev]al girls %e>$1 "o aft] ! o!r1 l %eep1 & z _m m /&+ ready = ! %e>s1 ) _! caps 9 _! h&s1 & _! long hair comb$ out & hang+ d[n to _! wai/s4 ,"s ( ! op]ators 7 m51 & "s wom54 ,by ! side ( ! deal] 0 plac$ a l>ge basket1 into :i* e successive crop ( hair1 ti$ up into a wisp1 0 ?r[n4 ,no d\bt ! reason ( _! indiff]5ce to _! tresses on ! "p ( ! fair ,bretonnes is to be f\nd 9 ! inv>iable mode :i* cov]s e head1 f *ildhood upw>ds1 ) close caps1 :i* entirely prev5t any "p ( ! hair f be+ se51 &1 ( c\rse1 z totally conceal ! want ( x4 ,! money giv5 = ! hair is ab\t tw5ty s\s1 or else a gaudy cotton h&k]*ief2 !y net imm5se pr(its by _! trips ?r\gh ! c\ntry40 ,?is hair is1 z ,i am in=m$1 ! f9e/ & mo/ silk5 black hair t c be procur$4 ,prep>+ hair requires c>eful manipulation1 = unless x be prop]ly clean$ & drawn (f into ! requir$ l5g?s1 ! p>ticul> "w 9 h& /&s a *ance ( be+ spoil$4 ,only fancy mak+ a silk or sk9 p>t+ ) hair t has be5 imp]fectly clean$2 ! result c easily be imag9$2 or a s5sitive lady's surprise & disgu/ %\ld %e discov] a 8nit0 ^u h] torsade or plait4 ,:ile m5tion+ ?is1 ,i _c help call+ to m9d ! exagg]at$ & untru?ful /atem5ts :i* 7 made "s ye>s ago 9 ref]5ce to ,dr4 ,l9demann's alleg$ discov]y ( 8greg>9es0 ^u false hair1 & _! rapid procreation4 ,! effect produc$ 0 mo/ prejudicial to hairdress]s1 until1 aft] a few weeks _h elaps$1 x came to be reg>d$ z 8"o ( ^? ?+s :i* no fella c\ld und]/&40 ,let me "h obs]ve t ,i h n se5 a greg>9e1 nei!r h ,i be5 able to procure "o f ! s\rce indicat$ by ! le>n$ ,russian pr(essor1 nor c\ld ,i ev] meet ) a sci5tific g5tleman :o _h a specim5 ( ! k9d 9 8 possession4 ,inde$1 ,i might g a little f>!r1 & say t ,i h be5 unable to discov] any "o :o has ev5 se5 a greg>9e1 al?\gh ! 8,micrographic ,diction>y0 in=ms me t !y are to be obta9$ f ab\t eighty diff]5t s\rces4 ,su*1 !n1 is _! insignificant "* & appe>ance :5 view$ "u a p[]ful glass4 ,?is sc>e 0 soon foll[$ by ! s-call$ 8*ignon fungus10 :i* br\ght =? a mo/ int]e/+ disquisition ^u ! subject by ,dr4 ,tilbury ,fox1 at "o ( ! le>n$ societies2 b ! fungoid gr[? t 0 f\nd ^u a p>ticul> piece ( hair _h no?+ :atev] to d ) a *ignon1 z an exam9ation ( a portion ( ! same hair n[ 9 my possession w\ld readily prove4 ,! good condition ( hair is tak5 into consid]ation by pr(essional hair m]*ants1 = _! v success 9 bus9ess dep5ds on ! unmi/akably clean & glossy appe>ance ( ! article 9 :i* !y deal4 ,i w\ld urge1 !re=e1 all hairdress]s :o c>ry on a respectable trade1 & are desir\s ( improv+ x1 to pur*ase hair ( fir/-rate quality only1 & only to buy x ( ^? :o /udy to well prep>e x = _! use4 ,!y %\ld avoid1 if possible1 hav+ any?+ to d ) ! common rubbi% :i* n[ & aga9 f9ds its way into ! m>ket1 & w ?us be able to give a good article = a fair & remun]ative price4 ,x may be said1 h[ev]1 t all 9 ! hairdress+ pr(ession are n able to g or s5d to "s dept 9 ! vic9ity = e little requirem5t2 nei!r is x conv5i5t = !m to keep 9 /ock hair ( e %ade or l5g?4 ,besides1 !y may h a quantity ( 8cutt+s0 7n 8comb+s10 m>k y67 :i* %\ld be utilis$ &1 aft] c>eful treatm5t1 made up = sale4 ,x is1 !n1 to su* tradesm5 t ,i desire to speak1 & hope my rem>ks w be f\nd useful 9 ! c\rse ( _! bus9ess c>e]4 ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,! ,implem5ts ,us$ 9 ,prep>+ ,hair--,! ,prep>ation ( ,hair ,describ$--,wa%+ ! ,hair--,dry+ ! ,hair--,draw+ ! ,hair--,nitt+ ! ,hair--,c>d+ ! ,hair--,curl+ ! ,hair--,boil+ & ,bak+ ! ,hair4 ,i w assume t ! l>g] portion ( my read]s are well acqua9t$ ) ! v>i\s implem5ts & tools us$ 9 ! trade1 b z ?is book w1 no d\bt1 be br\ght prom95tly "u ! notice ( appr5tices & improv]s1 a brief description ( su* ?+s is n altoge!r unnecess>y4 ,a 8c>d0 is made ) a ?ick wood5 base1 into :i* a l>ge numb] ( /eel prongs or spikes1 ab\t two or ?ree in*es deep1 h be5 firmly set1 & x is us$ = c>d+ or smoo?+ hair4 ,! possession ( a pair ( good draw+-bru%es is also mo/ important4 ,!y %\ld be l>ge & heavy1 & well fill$ ) ! be/ bri/les4 ,^! bru%es are made ( v>i\s sizes1 b z !y are s necess>y & useful1 ,i w\ld recomm5d ! pur*ase ( a good article1 & ( fair proportions4#b ,a 8nitt+ ma*9e0 rem9ds "o ( a small-too? comb1 = its purpose is simil>4 ,x is made ( brass1 fitt$ ) screws to be turn$ ) ! ?umb & f+]1 & ^! hold toge!r or op5 at w a closely-set numb] ( /eel tee?4 ,?is compact little in/rum5t is int5d$ to be fix$1 :5 9 use1 to ! front ( ! 8c>d10 s t ! :ole l5g? ( hair may be pass$ ?r\gh x sev]al times4 ,a 8jigg]0 is want$ :5 pip+ or curl+ hair4 ,x is a piece ( h>d wood1 ab\t sev5 or eight in*es long1 ?ree in*es wide1 & half-an-in* 9 ?ickness4 ,!re are to be ?ree holes1 9 ! =m ( a triangle1 t[>ds ! upp] end1 ?r\gh :i* ord9>y screws are pass$ to fix x securely to ! "w-table or b5*4 ,ab\t ?ree in*es ( ?is piece ( wood or 8jigg]0 mu/ be all[$ to project1 & ?r\gh ! project+ "p two holes are to be made 9 a l9e ) ea* o!r4 ,a piece ( /rong /r+ is to be pass$ ?r\gh ^! two holes1 ti$ 9 a knot1 & ext5d to )9 a c\ple ( in*es ( ! floor4 ,! 8pipes10 = curl+ hair1 are ab\t ?ree-&-a-half in*es 9 l5g?1 & ! ?ickness ( a lead p5cil4 ,=m]ly !y 7 made ( e>!nw>e clay1 b common tobacco-pipe1 pieces ( cane1 or1 bett] /ill1 will[1 ) ! b>k /ripp$ (f1 answ] e purpose4 ,9 addition to ! =ego+1 a doz5 or m pieces ( wood1 ab\t twelve or fifte5 in*es long & "o in* squ>e1 w be requir$1 toge!r ) vessels = boil+ hair1 t9s or di%es = bak+ hair1 pl5ty ( /r+1 a dress+ comb or two1 scissors1 etc41 & an old razor-blade1 well-set 9 a h&le1 all[+ two in*es ( ! blade to appe>1 w all be useful4 ,s(t soap1 & "s ( ! be/ ,scot* soda1 toge!r ) hot & cold wat]1 mu/ also be provid$4 ,let me suppose t ! read] has a small /ock ( hair by him1 :i* he is desir\s ( br++ into use4 ,x may h be5 accumulat+ = "s "t1 & is1 probably1 ( div]s l5g?s & col\rs4 ,x %\ld be collect$ toge!r1 & ! fir/ ?+ to d is to get ! hair ?or\ghly clean1 s z to prep>e x = aft] manipulation4 ,sep>ate ! diff]5t qualities fir/1 %\ld !re be any v>iation 9 t respect1 & put all ! co>se hair into "o lot1 & all ! f9e into ano!r4 ,9 ! ev5t ( a piece ( hair be+ r m bulky ?an ! re/1 divide x1 s z to h ea* piece ab\t ! same size & n any ?ick] ?an c be wa%$ & dri$ 9 an easy1 z well z effectual mann]4 ,tie e piece ) /r+ mod]ately tight & securely fa/5$1 b loose en\gh = ! tie to slide up & d[n a little :5 ! hair is be+ wa%$1 o!rwise1 "s portion ( ! hair w be clean1 & :]e ti$1 dirty4 ,be=e wa%+1 x is bett] to give ea* piece a r\gh 8c>d+10 s z to prev5t its matt+ toge!r1 & probably break+ ! long] hair 9 its dis5tanglem5t4 ,! =ego+ in/ructions hav+ be5 att5d$ to1 provide two pails or bas9s ( hot wat]--z hot z ! h& c be>--& into ea* "o put a tol]able quantity ( s(t-soap & soda--! be/ ,scot* soda if x c be obta9$4 ,place a few pieces ( ! hair into "o vessel to soak1 s t ! dirt & grease ^u x may be m easily remov$4 ,take up "o ( ! pieces1 & hold+ x z a boy w\ld a /ick1 betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]s1 comm5ce rubb+ x 9 wa%]woman /yle1 &1 at ! same "t1 work+ x gradually f "o end to ! o!r4 ,d n =get to slip ! tie occasionally1 & if ?is process be c>efully p]=m$1 a great deal ( ! grease & dirt w h be5 remov$4 ,?is imp]fectly clean$ piece c !n be pass$ into ! second vessel4 ,proce$ 9 ! same way ?r\gh\t1 *ang+ ! wat] frequ5tly1 or z soon z x becomes f\l & unfit = use4 ,:5 all ! hair has be5 wa%$ twice 9 ! mann] describ$1 clean ! pails or bas9s1 & fill !m ) fre% wat]--hot 9 "o1 & tepid 9 ! o!r4 ,?is is = r9s+ purposes1 & ! la/ wat] mu/ n be soapy1 = s long z t is ! case o!r wat] mu/ be procur$4 ,x is ( ! utmo/ importance to remove all grease1 soap1 or dirt f ! hair1 & ! greate/ p>ticul>ity %\ld be ex]cis$ 9 ?is prelim9>y op]ation4 ,! hair c be dri$ ei!r 9 ! sun1 9 a w>m room1 or be=e a fire4 ,if 9 ! sun1 &1 ( c\rse1 9 ! op5 air1 ea* piece %\ld be fa/5$ sep>ately to a l9e1 & left to bl[ ab\t 9 ! w9d = a few h\rs1 or1 9 o!r words1 till x is q dry4 ,if ! dry+ process be c>ri$ on 9 a w>m room1 let ! hair hang ne> to ! ceil+1 & avoid mak+ a du/3 b %\ld an ov51 or dry+ be=e ! fire1 be m conv5i5t1 turn ! hair frequ5tly1 & m9d x does n get scor*$ or burnt4 ,bo? ^! op]ations hav+ be5 duly att5d$ to1 see t ! 8c>d0 & 8draw+-bru%es0 are p]fectly clean1 = ! next process is t ( draw+ ! hair4 ,i mu/ n[ imag9e t ! v>i\s %ades h be5 select$ & plac$ 9 diff]5t lots1 su* z natural blacks "h1 d>k br[ns !re1 light br[ns1 r$s1 greys1 & o!r %ades or p>ticul> col\rs 9 sep>ate & conv5i5t places4 ,comm5ce ) ! natural black hair4 ,take a piece & cut ! /r+ :i* b9ds x toge!r1 hold ! hair by ! roots firmly 9 ! "r h&1 & make smoo? by pass+ x g5tly ?r\gh ! 8c>d0 sev]al times4 ,x may be necess>y to rev]se x1 b 9 t case hold x z ne> to ! roots z possible1 s z to avoid wa/+ ! %ort & f9] hair1 :i* is to be f\nd 9 e tress4 ,hav+ done ! c>d+1 remove ! top 8draw+ bru%10 & place ! piece ( hair ^u ! und]nea? "o1 ! roots ^u ! bru%1 ! po9ts be+ free & incl9$ t[>ds y4 ,repeat ?is ) a second1 ?ird1 or f\r? piece ( hair1 until y h collect$ all ( t p>ticul> %ade toge!r1 or until ! bru% is conv5i5tly full4 ,!n place ! o!r bru% on ! top1 press d[n mod]ately tight1 & put a r heavy weight ^u x4 ,! bru%es be+ be=e y1 ! l5g? ( !m ext5d+ f left to "r1 ! hair :i* is free be+ ( v>y+ l5g?s 7say7 f tw5ty in*es up to ! v %ort )9 ! bru%es1 x is n[ ready to be 8drawn40 ,! workb5* or table %\ld be b\nd ) hoop-iron1 ris+ a qu>t] ( an in* above ! level1 to =m a 8/op10 s t ! bru%es1 hair1 & weights may n be pull$ (f4 ,b if ! table is n s made x w be necess>y to provide a 8/op0 by means ( nails or screws4 ,i h previ\sly allud$ to a doz5 or m pieces ( wood 7! l5g? ( ! bru%es71 twelve or fifte5 in*es long1 & "o in* squ>e1 & n[ ,i w describe _! use4 ,assum+ ! longe/ hair 9 ! bru%es to be tw5ty in*es1 f\r in*es or m ( :i* be+ securely held betwe5 !m1 x foll[s t fifte5 or sixte5 in*es mu/ be free4 ,x is requisite to h ! po9ts ( ! hair project+ a little1 & only a little1 ov] ! edge ( ! table4 ,! 8/op0 be+ at or ne> ! edge _c act z a *eck1 b by plac+ a suffici5t numb] ( ^! pieces ( wood betwe5 ! 8/op0 & ! bru%es1 !y1 i4e41 ! bru%es1 c be made secure at any di/ance requir$4 ,take ! old razor blade already spok5 ( 7:i* = conv5i5ce ,i w call a knife71 & comm5ce 8draw+0 ! hair 9 small portions (1 say1 "o or two hundr$ hairs4 ,cont9ue ?is1 hold+ ! hair firmly 9 ! left h&1 :ile ! knife is 9 ! "r1 until a l>ge quantity has be5 drawn (f4 ,z ! l5g? ( ! hair dim9i%es1 s x w be necess>y to remove "o or m pieces ( wood 9 ord] to keep ! ends project+1 z ,i h said be=e1 a little ov] ! table's edge4 ,assum+ t ! bru%es 7 tol]ably well suppli$ ) hair at ! outset1 ! h& is likely to get fill$ ?ree or f\r times1 b ea* ( ^! pieces ( hair c be loosely ti$ = ! pres5t & put aside4 ,x is to be not$ t ! fa/5+ w 9 ?is case be at ! po9ts in/ead ( at ! roots1 b t1 ,i ne$ h>dly say1 is simply = tempor>y conv5i5ce4 ,! draw+-bru%es be+ aga9 cle>1 ! same pieces are to h ! tie cut & plac$ 9 regul> ord] on ! und]nea? bru%--! longe/ hair be+ on ! "r1 ! %orte/ on ! left1 & ! diff]5t l5g?s graduat+ betwe54 ,n[ put ! o!r bru% ov] all1 ) weights ^u ! top to hold ! hair secure4 ,let a suffici5t numb] ( slips ( wood fill up ! vacancy betwe5 ! 8/op0 & ! bru%es1 :ile ! ends ( ! longe/ hair project a little ov] ! edge ( ! table4 ,rememb] t ! roots ( ! hair are n[ be=e y1 & comm5ce4 ,keep ! roots ev5 & clubb$1 b draw+ until !re is ab\t a qu>t] ( an ounce 9 ! h&1 :5 x %\ld be neatly & securely ti$4 ,?is is to be repeat$ until ! :ole ( ! hair plac$ 9 ! bru%es is f9i%$4 ,( c\rse1 z ! hair dim9i%es1 "o piece ( wood aft] ! o!r mu/ be tak5 away1 & tresses ( c]ta9 def9ite l5g?s w be ! result4 ,^! tresses c all be classifi$ by putt+ ! v>i\s l5g?s toge!r1 ?us--sev5 & eight-in* hair 7call+ x eight71 n9e & t5-in* hair 7call+ x t571 elev5 & twelve-in* hair 7call+ x twelve71 & s on4 ,! %orte/ &1 9 all probability1 ! f9e/ hair 9 ! bru%es mu/ also be drawn & firmly ti$1 b ,i purpose deal+ ) t1 "u ! designation ( 8crop0 hair1 9 due c\rse4 ,?is process ( draw+ mu/ be pursu$1 until ! entire quantity is dispos$ (4 ,hav+ got ! hair well wa%$1 & 9 regul> ord]1 y mu/ n[ make a c>eful exam9ation to see :e!r !re are any nits4 ,?is is important1 = ! mo/ clev] piece ( "w is spoil$ 9 ! e/imation ( p 9 g5]al1 %\ld !y discov] any?+ ( ! k9d ^u ev5 "o ( ! hairs4 ,to imag9e t a mix$ quantity ( raw hair c be p]fectly free f p>asitic indications is a mi/ake :i* no respectable hairdress] w\ld all[ to occur4 ,true1 "s hair goods are to be f\nd 9 a condition ! rev]se ( :at !y ought to be1 b ^! are g5]ally (f]$ = sale1 by n ov]-scrupul\s tradesm51 & pur*as$ by cu/om]s ( /rong economical t5d5cies4 ,be t z x may1 x is requisite to exam9e ! hair1 & any unsatisfactory or suspect$ pieces %\ld be pick$ out4 ,n[1 ,i w suppose t nits are obs]v$ ^u half-a-doz5 ( ^! pieces1 & ) !m ,i purpose deal+4 ,fix ! 8nitt+ ma*9e0 to ! front ( ! 8c>d0 9 a secure mann]1 &1 to prev5t accid5ts1 x is mo/ important ?is %\ld be /rictly att5d$ to4 ,cut ! tie3 firmly grasp ! tress ( hair1 & 8c>d0 x1 tak+ good c>e t ea* "t x is made to pass ?r\gh ! ma*9e also4 ,?is is to be repeat$ until ! nits are remov$2 ! hair be+ rev]s$ occasionally to 8nit0 ! o!r end4 ,x is wor?y ( rem>k t ! eggs or nits ( ! common l\se are obs]vable to ! nak$ eye2 !y are ( sug>-loaf =m1 & g5]ally deposit$ ^u ! hair ) ! n>r[ end po9t+ to ! scalp4 ,h5ce x foll[s t by 8c>d+0 ! hair ! rev]se way ! nits are mu* m easily remov$ by ?is useful little ma*9e1 :i* no hair-prep>] %\ld be )\t4 ,! tee? ( ! ma*9e c be r5d]$ f9e or co>se 7z may be requir$7 by means ( ?umb-screws atta*$1 & ?is process be+ effectually p]=m$1 ! hair is n[ ready = fur!r manipulation4 ,curl$ hair ( t51 twelve1 f\rte51 & sixte5 in*es long1 is mo/ 9 reque/1 b long] or %ort] c be curl$1 if requir$4 ,i h already describ$ a piece ( h>d wood call$ a 8jigg]0 project+ f ! "w-table1 & "s ( ! o!r requirem5ts = 8pip+0 or curl+ hair4 ,^! ,i w suppose h be5 provid$1 & sundry locks ( hair select$4 ,take "o ( ! pieces1 say1 = ! sake ( illu/ration1 weigh+ ab\t a qu>t] ( an ounce1 & see t x is well & securely ti$4 ,moi/5 ! "r h&1 & rub ! roots toge!r to cause ! hair to 8felt10 & prev5t ! tie slipp+4 ,place ! ti$ "p on ! 8jigg]10 hold x by means ( ! /r+ :i* passes ?r\gh1 & press tight ) ! foot4 ,by ?is means ! hair is1 z x 71 held 9 a vice4 ,comb x out & divide 9 two portions4 ,take "o ( ! pieces ( will[1 cane1 or :atev] may be employ$ = ! purpose1 te*nically call$ a 8pipe10 & a piece ( r /iff pap] ab\t #c in*es by #b4 ,put ! 8pipe0 ^u ! hair1 & ! pap] und]nea?1 hold+ bo? 9 _! places by means ( ! ?umb & f+]s & press+ g5tly ! :ile4 ,draw ! two d[nw>ds till y get to ! po9ts1 & !n comm5ce to curl4 ,by a movem5t ( ! h&s1 spread ! hair a little1 hold+ x firm & tight until x is all roll$ up4 ,take ab\t a y>d ( /r+ & tie ! hair & 8pipe0 toge!r1 by pass+ ! /r+ r\nd "o & !n ! o!r 9 su* a way z to hold x firmly 9 its place )\t slipp+1 & fa/5 (f securely4 ,!re is "s art 9 do+ ?is adroitly1 :i* is difficult to expla9 9 writ+1 b ! read] %\ld be> 9 m9d t ,i am address+ ^? 9 ! trade1 & probably an opportunity w n[ & !n (f] = a practical illu/ration by "s exp]i5c$ h&4 ,i h g5]ally f\nd x conv5i5t to use all ! /raight hair 9 plaits1 twi/s1 etc41 9 ! c\rse ( my bus9ess1 & to pur*ase ! curl$ hair ready prep>$ = use4 ,?is _c always be done1 especially by ^? :o reside 9 di/ant p>ts1 b a little practice w soon enable an intellig5t workman to ov]come any difficulty t pres5ts itself4 ,aft] ! hair is roll$ or curl$ up on 8pipes10 x has to be boil$ & bak$1 s z to 8fix ! curl40 ,! hair %\ld be boil$ = an h\r or m1 & aft]w>ds all[$ a brief p]iod to dra94 ,:ile /ill w>m x is to be put into trays or di%es & bak$ = sev]al h\rs2 !re are suitable ov5s con/ruct$ = ! purpose n[-a-days1 b =m]ly ! hair us$ to be emb$d$ 9 dri$ s& & bak$ 9 a mod]ately cool bak]'s ov54 ,! :ole lot ( hair is to be /rung toge!r l ropes ( onions aft]w>ds1 & hung 9 a w>m dry place = days or mon?s till want$4 ,9 unroll+ 7!re be+ two curls to ea* tress7 "o curl %\ld be turn$ to ! "r & ! o!r to ! left1 & if ?is "w be prop]ly p]=m$1 ! hair w pres5t a bright1 glossy appe>ance1 ) a natural-look+ & durable r+let curl4 ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,! ,prep>ation ( ,hair 7cont9u$7--,crop ,hair--,a ,rem>kable ,trial--,crap+ & ,crimp+ ! ,hair--,ins]t$ ,/ems--,boil+ & ,bak+ ,crp$ ,hair--,comb+s & ,turn$ ,hair allud$ to aga94 ,! %orte/ & f9e/ hair is employ$ = g5tlem5's wigs1 fr+es1 8,sevigny0 curls1 & simil> purposes4 ,!re is frequ5tly a natural incl9ation to curl 9 hair ( ?is description1 b :5 co>se & /rong1 x is be/ n to attempt to =ce x4 ,to make ! curl take "o ( ! pieces ( f9e hair1 & ?or\ghly wet x4 ,rub ! roots ) ! palm ( ! h& z be=e1 s z to cause x to 8felt0 toge!r4 ,h ready a smoo? brass tool1 five or six in*es long1 & 9 %ape resembl+ ! end ( a /eel us$ = %>p5+ knives4 ,) ?is 7& ! ?umb7 press ! hair betwe51 giv+ ! hair1 at ! same "t1 two or ?ree turns r\nd ! tool2 draw away ! in/rum5t2 hold ! curl betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]1 & place x on an iron tray made = ! purpose4 ,ea* curl is to be held 9 position by means ( a small weight plac$ ^u x1 & !re mu/ be a 8/op0 9 ! c5tre ( ! tray to prev5t ! curl unw9d+4 ,! succe$+ curl acts z a 8/op0 to its pr$ecessor1 & :5 ! tray is full1 x looks n unlike a di% ( snails t has be5 prep>$ = "s uncommon & rem>kable fea/4 ,x is n possible to boil ?is hair1 l t :i* is roll$ ^u 8pipes0 & securely fa/5$ by means ( pieces ( /r+1 !re=e x mu/ be /eam$ be=e x is bak$4 ,! /eam+ process c be done effectually 9 a small way ) ord9>y dome/ic ut5sils4 ,hair manufactur]s w\ld proce$ some:at diff]5tly1 & necess>ily s1 because _! "w is ext5sive2 b ,i am address+ myself to hairdress]s ^: requirem5ts are on a greatly r$uc$ scale4 ,take a suffici5tly l>ge saucepan1 & put !re9 "o ( ^? ?ree-legg$ iron r+s ^u :i* meat is plac$ :5 s5t to ! ov54 ,e good h\sewife w "k :at ,i mean4 ,on ?is /& put ! tray conta9+ ! crop hair1 & surr\nd ! :ole ) wat]1 tak+ c>e1 h[ev]1 t none ent]s ! tray4 ,put ! lid on ! saucepan2 boil = at lea/ a qu>t] ( an h\r1 & by ?is simple arrangem5t ! hair w be suffici5tly well prep>$ = ! bak+ process4 ,take ! tray conta9+ ! hair c>efully out1 & aft] all[+ ! /eam to bl[ (f1 a c]ta9 am\nt ( dryness w foll[1 :5 x c be bak$ 9 a cool ov51 or 9 front ( a good fire--! ov5 ( c\rse be+ pref]able4 ,:5 q cold ! weights are to be remov$1 ea* curl$ lock ( hair put into a box or draw] till want$1 &1 above all1 x mu/ be kept 9 a w>m1 dry ap>tm5t4 ,illu/ration3 #a4 ,sev5 ,/r& ,plait1 ) ,fancy ,comb atta*$4 #b4 ,p9 ,curl4 ,^! curls are g5]ally made ^u hair-p9s1 = :i* a small quantity ( %ort frizz$1 or curl$ hair1 suffices4 #c1 #d1 #e4 ,human ,hair ,frizzetts1 = plait$ ,*ignons1 ,plicaturas1 c4 #f4 ,long ,plait1 = a coil$ ,*ignon :5 made ^u ! head4 ,:5 frizzets 7 us$ 9 ! elaboration ( a lady's coiffure1 z 0 ! practice a few ye>s ago1 sev]al pieces ( crap$ hair 7 all-important4 ,! trade done 9 bo? l>ge & small frizzets1 pads1 /ems = plicaturas1 twi/s1 & plaits 0 some?+ enorm\s1 & quantities ( a dy$ mat]ial resembl+ hair 7 br\ght into requisition4 ,& ?is 0 absolutely necess>y1 = ! /ock ( human hair suitable = ! purpose became exhau/$4 ,a brief allusion to ! important case ( ,doni/horpe v4 ,j[ett w n be out ( place "h1 z x is l>gely connect$ ) ! subject4 ,?is action 0 tri$ 9 ! ,c\rt ( ,ex*equ]1 & la/$ six or sev5 days1 a full report ( :i* appe>$ at ! "t4#c ,x 0 an action br\ght = ! infr+em5t ( a pat5t process :i* relat$ to crimp+ hair1 b m p>ticul>ly appli$ to a dy$ mat]ial l>gely us$ z a sub/itute4 8,i am afraid to m5tion to y10 said ,mr4 ,mat!ws1 ,q4,c41 9 8 op5+ address1 8! figures t h be5 laid be=e me z to ! ext5t ( ! trade4 ,x is n p\nds2 x is n hundr$weights2 x is n tons nor hundr$s ( tons1 b x is hundr$s ( ?\s&s ( tons 9 :i* ?is crimp$ hair is sold 9 ! ,engli% m>ket40 ,b ,i ne$ n /ay to ent] into ! details ( ?is rem>kable suit2 x is suffici5t = my purpose to %[ ! enorm\s bus9ess t 0 done 9 ^! goods at "o "t4 ,i w turn1 !re=e1 to ! appliances :i* e hairdress] possesses1 or c easily obta91 & deal ) ! crimp+ ( human hair on a small scale4 ,! me?od g5]ally adopt$ = crap+ or crimp+ hair is z foll[s3 ,take ! screws & pegs us$ 9 weav+ 7a description ( :i* x is unnecess>y to give1 = ! weav+-frame mu/ be kn[n to ne>ly e hairdress] or b>b] 9 ! k+dom71 & in/ead ( silk1 w9d /r+ ar\nd ! peg made = ! purpose4 ,! /r+ ne$ n be ?ick1 b x ought to be /rong1 & if a little /\t] ?an ord9>y %op-/r+1 s mu* ! bett]4 ,:5 ! frame is set up1 two /r+s in/ead ( ?ree 7! numb] usually employ$ 9 weav+71 are requir$4 ,put ! hair to be us$ 9 ! bru%es 9 ! usual way1 ) suffici5t weight !reon1 & comm5ce by draw+ out a mod]ately ?ick piece ( hair te*nically call$ 8a weft40 ,i w take x = grant$ t ! read] kn[s :at co>se weft is1 9 connection ) weav+ g5]ally1 & ! 8wefts0 us$ 9 crimp+ hair are to be decid$ly co>se4 ,9 ?is op]ation1 !n1 ! roots ( ! hair w be ne> ! h& ( ! workman1 :ile ! l5g? ( ! hair 7:atev] l5g? x may be7 lies smoo?ly betwe5 ! two bru%es4 ,f ! hair s plac$ draw out a weft1 pu% ! root-end close up to ! knot 7previ\sly ti$ 9 ! /r+s by way ( a />t+-po9t71 & hold x firmly ) ! ?umb & f+] ( ! left h&4 ,comm5ce !n to int]tw9e ! free ends ( ! hair1 no matt] h[ long x may be1 9 & out 9 a regul>1 firm1 & secure mann]4 ,let me suppose t y are go+ to crape "s six or eight-in* hair1 & t ! root-end is be+ held betwe5 ! /r+s z be=e describ$4 ,i w assume t ! free hair incl9es t[>ds ! "r h&1 & is hang+ d[n4 ,pass ! root-end "u ! bottom /r+1 draw x ?r\gh betwe52 turn x ov] ! top "o2 draw ! roots t[>ds y aga91 &1 by a k9d ( twi/1 *ange ! position ( ! hair1 hold+ ! root-end 7) ! beg9n+ ( ! crp7 9 ! left h&1 :ile ! full l5g? ( ! hair is free4 ,?is is to be int]tw9$ 9 a regul> mann] ) ! /r+ till ! ends are rea*$4 ,pu% up close t[>ds ! comm5cem5t or root1 & use a 8jockey0 to keep x1 z well z ! end1 9 place4 ,:at is a 8jockey08 ,x is g5]ally a piece ( wood1 c>dbo>d1 or any o!r r h>d sub/ance1 us$ 9 weav+1 & f\nd necess>y :5 ! hair is co>se & /rong4 ,x is dext]\sly slipp$ betwe5 or ^u ! 8silks10 to keep ! roots f spr++ up :5 ea* 8weft0 is plac$ 9 position4 ,9 ?is in/ance1 ,i w\ld sugge/ two pieces ( firewood1 ab\t an in* & a half or two in*es long1 a qu>t] ( an in* wide1 & flat1 ti$ securely toge!r at ! top1 some:at exp&+ at ! bottom1 & :5 made1 to look l a m9iature clo!s-peg4 ,) ?is little contrivance ! end ( ! hair int]tw9$ ar\nd ! /r+s c be held 9 its place until ! next 8weft0 is put 9 position1 :5 x is to be remov$1 & proce$ ) ! "w z be=e describ$4 ,?is process %\ld g on until all ! hair is us$1 & !re may be a y>d1 or any quantity ( crap$ hair made ready = ! next op]ation4 ,hair ( t5 or twelve in*es long is mo/ suitable = mak+ 8ins]t$ /ems40 ,tie up two /r+s z be=e describ$1 & knot !m toge!r at ! comm5cem5t1 :i* is ! />t+-po9t 9 int]tw9+ ! hair4 ,! hair itself %\ld be plac$ )9 ! draw+ bru%es z be=e2 pull out ?ick 8wefts10 & "w !m ^u ! /r+s z previ\sly describ$1 b ) ?is diff]5ce1 !y are only to be crimp$ or crp$ half way4 ,"h is ! mode ( proc$ure--draw out a weft1 & hold "o half ( ! l5g? 9 y\r left h&1 :ile ) ! "r y turn x ov]1 & "u1 & betwe5 ! /r+s 9 a me?odical way1 z ,i h previ\sly m5tion$4 ,pu% up ea* piece z x is work$1 close & tight4 ,?us "o half ( ! hair w be left hang+ loose1 :ile ! o!r half :5 ! op]ation is complet$ w be crp or crimp$4 ,assum+ t ! "w is prop]ly p]=m$1 ! next important "p is ! boil+ & bak+ ( x4 ,hav+ crap$ all t is to be done1 cut d[n ! /r+s1 & tie ! free ends securely toge!r4 ,h ready a clean saucepan 7x is be/ to keep "o = ! purpose7 fill x ) ei!r hot or cold wat]1 put ! hair & /r+ into x & boil = ab\t a qu>t] ( an h\r4 ,!n take x out1 let ! /eam evaporate1 & put x 9 a r w>m ov5 or be=e a good fire4 ,x %\ld be well bak$1 = ! crimp is want$ to be durable2 !re=e1 if kept 9 ! ov5 = a day & night s mu* ! bett]4 ,x c !n be all[$ to rema9 on ! /r+s till want$4 ,illu/ration3 #a4 ,a ,coronet ,plait4 #b4 8,catogan0 ,*ignon2 be+ a twi/ & f\r-/r& plait1 ) ribbon b[4 #c4 ,! 8,dolly ,v>d50 headdress4 #d4 ,m>gu]ite ,plaits2 :i* c be made 9 any l5g? ( hair1 & are easily =m$ into ,coils1 c4 #e4 ,semi-cov]$ ,/ems1 o!rwise 8ins]t$ /ems10 = plait$ ,coils1 ,coronets1 c4 ,:5 ! crimp$ hair is requir$ = use--& ,i allude to ! mak+ ( ord9>y frizzets fir/--cut ! /r+s at conv5i5t places & pull !m out4 ,h a 8c>d0 & 8draw+ bru%es0 h&y1 & z ea* piece is c>d$1 spread x ^u "o ( ! bru%es by means ( a dress+ comb1 & :5 conv5i5tly fill$ put ! o!r bru% on ! top1 ) a suffici5tly heavy weight to keep x 9 its place4 ,i ne$ h>dly say t ! po9ts are to be )9 ! bru%es1 :ile ! root-ends mu/ be left project+ out a little way1 z t w be f\nd necess>y & conv5i5t4 ,) ref]5ce to ! long] hair :i* has be5 prep>$ = mak+ ! ins]t$ /ems1 a simil> c\rse is to be pursu$4 ,! pla9 or /raight ends are to be )9 ! bru%es1 :ile ! roots z 9 ! previ\s case1 are to be left free1 say1 to ! ext5t ( half an in*4 ,hav+ arriv$ at ?is po9t1 ! next /ep is to weave ! hair1 & ! me?od ( do+ s w be describ$ 9 due c\rse4 ,i w rem>k "h1 h[ev]1 t 9 weav+ hair = frizzettes ins]t$ /ems1 c41 all ! wefts mu/ n be set "o way1 z 9 ! case :5 hair is wov5 = wigs1 fronts1 & curls1 b ea* weft mu/ be set 9 a contr>y direction1 i4e41 "o up & ! o!r d[n4 ,i %all be bett] able to describe ?is "u ! head ( 8,weav+10 ( :i* x w be necess>y to give an illu/ration4#d ,!re 0 a "t1 & n _m ye>s ago ei!r1 :5 su* an ann\ncem5t z 8,comb+s made up1 & ! ,hair turn$0 w\ld h greatly a/oni%$ ! trade & ! public z well2 b n[ t k9d ( "w is done 9 ne>ly e hairdress]'s e/abli%m5t1 be x l>ge or small4 ,i h be=e allud$ to ! use ( 8wa/e0 hair or 8comb+s0 9 ! manufacture ( po/i*e1 z x is t]m$ by ,p>isian coiffeurs1 & 8false hair0 by ! g5]ality ( p "h1 & express$ my av]sion to its employm5t4 ,hair t is ca/ (f by a law ( nature1 aft] illness1 acc\*em5ts1 & a v>iety ( o!r causes1 _c by any possibility be made equal 9 appe>ance & quality to ! hair :i* is cut (f f heal?y heads4 ,!n !re is ! cu/om>y loss ( hair ab\t ! autumn season1 :i* may be reg>d$ 9 a simil> light to quadrup$s *ang+ _! coats1 & to birds m\lt+4 ,hair ( ?is description is g5]ally )]$ & dry1 ?r\gh a want ( suffici5t nutrition1 :i* is ! prim>y cause ( its decay4 ,!re is an old say+ t 8! value ( a ?+ is j z mu* z x w br+02 & to asc]ta9 ! value ( 8comb+s0 f a comm]cial po9t ( view1 let any "o g to diff]5t %ops & try to sell a pap]-bagful4 ,! exp]im5t is n likely to be repeat$4 ,l a true arti/1 ,i object to ! use ( inf]ior mat]ials1 = h[ev] good ! workman%ip may be1 bad /uff w spoil ! lot4 ,i h ano!r objection to make1 = ,i consid] t ?r\gh ! introduction ( 8comb+s0 ! sale ( hair--good1 clean1 glossy hair--has fall5 (f1 & ! hairdress]'s pr(its dim9i%$ 9 l proportion4 ,nev]!less1 ?is inf]ior quality ( hair is us$1 & h[ to treat x 9 ! mo/ satisfactory way1 is :at ,i h "h to deal )4 ,9 prep>+ ?is hair1 :i* g5]ally comes to h& 9 a matt$ & tangl$ /ate1 ! fir/ ?+ to d is to 8c>d0 x1 & ?is %\ld be done ) small pieces at a "t4 ,aft] :i*1 ^! pieces mu/ be laid toge!r until ! :ole is f9i%$4 ,tie x 9 bun*es ( a conv5i5t ?ickness1 & wa% ?or\ghly z previ\sly in/ruct$4 ,x is !n to be dri$ & drawn (f 9 ! usual way4 ,mo/ly x is made up into ! requir$ article )\t 8turn+10 b x is n suitable = curls unless x is 8turn$40 ,! process ( turn+ hair is att5d$ ) "s little tr\ble1 & v>i\s tradesm5 h diff]5t ways ( do+ x4 ,( c\rse ! hair c be work$ bett] :5 x is turn$1 b1 z *eapness is ! ord] ( ! day1 ,i suppose t :]e "o piece ( hair is 8turn$10 n9ete5 o!r pieces d n und]go su* c>eful manipulation4 ,9 ord] to deal ) ?is "p ( ! bus9ess prop]ly1 let me briefly recapitulate4 ,9 describ+ ! =mation ( hair1 & speak+ ( ! cuticle1 or out] %ea?1 ,i h said t x is ( a horny description2 t hairs are some:at cyl9drical 9 %ape 7except+ curly or wavy hair1 :i* is r flat72 t ! cortical /ructure ( human hair is jagg$ l ! tee? ( a saw1 & t ?is s]rat$ appe>ance is produc$ ?r\gh ! out] lay]1 or %ea?1 be+ compos$ ( flatt5$ cells or scales1 :i* ov]lap ea* o!r l ! scales ( fi%es4 ,?is c be se5 by means ( a good microscope1 & felt 9 pass+ hair quickly f po9t to root ?r\gh ! f+]s4 ,by rev]s+ ! hair & draw+ x ?r\gh ! f+]s f root to po9t1 ! diff]5ce c m readily be detect$ 9 consequ5ce ( its smoo?ness4 ,! k ( ?is /ructural arrangem5t is important z x be>s l>gely ^u ! 8turn+0 op]ation4 ,! comb+s are to be pick$ out & 8c>d$10 be+ at ! same "t held r loosely 9 ! h&4 ,by s do+1 ! matt$ hair becomes dis5tangl$1 & is deposit$ 9 or ^u ! 8c>d40 ,x is !n to be drawn out1 piece by piece1 & laid aside4 ,:5 ! :ole has be5 8c>d$0 9 ?is way1 x c be loosely ti$ 9 ! middle1 wa%$1 & dri$4 ,i w n[ assume t ! clean$ hair is be=e y1 & t x is to be 8turn$40 ,place x 9 ! bru%es2 draw (f a conv5i5t portion1 tak+ c>e t ! "p held 9 ! h& is clubb$1 & proce$ 9 ei!r ( ! foll[+ ways3--,hold ! piece ( hair 9 ! left h&1 h a cup ( w>m wat] ne>1 into :i* ! f+]s ( ! "r h& are to be dipp$ z occasion requires4 ,! hair is to be work$ betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]1 & ! peculi> =mation ( ! hair gradually =ces ! roots upw>ds4 ,^! roots may be se5 pla9ly ) an ord9>y magnify+ glass2 !y c be easily disc]n$ by ^? ^: eyesight is good1 & are to be discov]$ by ! t\*4 ,!y g5]ally pres5t a :iti% appe>ance1 & are bulb\s 9 =m4 ,x %\ld be borne 9 m9d t ,i am speak+ "h ( ! roots 9 a bus9ess s5se only1 )\t any reg>d to ! m m9ute sci5tific consid]ations4 ,z ! roots pres5t !mselves1 ! hairs to :i* !y are atta*$ are to be pull$ out & 8turn$10 i4e41 !y are to be put at ! bottom ( ! piece ( hair 9 h&4 ,z ea* portion is done1 x is to be laid aside1 until ! :ole is complet$1 ! roots be+ at "o end1 ! po9ts at ! o!r4 ,to f9i% ! turn+ process1 ! hair %\ld !n be drawn (f & ti$ z previ\sly describ$4 ,sev]al o!r ways ( turn+ hair are adopt$1 b ! pr9ciple is ! same4 ,"s use ! 8c>d0 ) ! 8nitt+ ma*9e0 atta*$4 ,! tee? ( ! ma*9e are all[$ to be op5 or close1 dep5d+ ^u ! co>se or f9e quality ( ! hair1 proce$+ ^u ! pr9ciple t ^! 8knobs10 or roots1 w (f] a slight resi/ance & be int]cept$ 9 _! c\rse4 ,o!rs1 aga91 employ a r[ ( ne$les1 closely set toge!r1 ) ! same object 9 view1 & produc+ a l result4 ,i obs]ve t 9 a rec5t ,am]ican "w on ! ,hair1 by ,c4 ,h5ri ,leon>d1 ,m4,d41 ! subject ( hair 8turn+0 has n escap$ 8 notice4 ,he says1 speak+ ( ! epid]mal coat or cellul> lay]1 t 8! flat1 quadrilat]aloid cells =m+ x ov]lap ea* o!r1 j z ! tiles or %+les d ea* o!r on our h\ses10 & t 8?is peculi>ity ( arrangem5t ( ! scales c be detect$ by ! t\*2 ?us1 draw+ ! hair briskly ?r\gh ! f+]s1 f ! tip to ! root1 x w !n seem to be r\gh & unev54 ,(t51 :5 q firm pressure is us$1 a humm+ s\nd may be produc$ by ?is manuvre4 ,y c by ?is means always tell :i* is ! root-end & :i* ! tip end ( ! hair1 z ! ov]lapp+ lay]s lie f ! roots4 ,n[ if y turn ! hair1 end = end1 & draw x f ! root to ! tip1 x w be felt to be smoo? & ev54 ,advantage has be5 tak5 ( ?is fact by hair deal]s & dress]s1 9 arrang+ _! /ock4 ,:]e ! hair has become dis>rang$1 t is1 a "p ) ! roots "o way & ! rema9d] ) ! tips 9 ! same direction1 ! :ole is ?r[n ^u a smoo?1 h>d surface1 & roll$ briskly back & =? ) ! palm ( ! h&1 or pulp ( ! f+]s1 :5 ^? ) ! roots 9 ! same direction w beg9 to #8back out' f ! mass1 & !n c be easily sort$ out & arrang$ 9 a prop] mann]4 ,7 ?is precaution n tak5 7to h ! po9ts all "o way7 ! hair w\ld nev] lie ev5ly & smoo?ly ^u ! head4 ,?is same #8roll+' process1 9 a m9or degree1 takes place at ea* twi/ ( ! head on ! pill[1 & h5ce expla9s :y our ladies' hairs are less sn>l$ & tangl$ ?an !y w\ld o!rwise be aft] a night's repose40 ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,dye+ ! ,hair--,( ,hair-dyes g5]ally--,p[d] ,dyes--,liquid ,dyes--,iron ,dyes--,lead ,dyes--,v>i\s op9ions conc]n+ ! use ( ,lead ,dyes--,silv] ,dyes--,dye+ ,false & ,fad$ ,hair--,blea*+ & ,blan*+ ,hair4 ,dye+ ! hair ^u1 z well z (f1 ! head1 is a v important subject1 & %\ld be dealt ) 9 z complete a mann] z possible4 ,a select$ numb] ( recipes w prove1 d\btless1 int]e/+ z well z useful4 ,9 ! days ( my appr5tice%ip--7x is n necess>y to say h[ _m ye>s ago7--!re 7 packets ( 8,pompeian ,hair ,dye0 9 ! %op w9d[ ( my ma/]1 :i* bore ! "n ( ! fam\s *emi/ ,,orfila1 & ! recipe = mak+ ?is dye 0 f\nd1 at lea/ s ! label /at$1 8among ! ru9s ( ,h]culaneum40 8,:at a wond]ful discov]y10 ,i us$ to ?9k2 & 8h[ ,i %\ld l to "k ! secret ( its manufacture40 ,x 0 a p[d] dye1 & _h to be mix$ ) wat]1 to ! consi/5cy ( pa/e1 be=e application1 ! hair be+ ?or\ghly wa%$ & dri$ fir/4 ,x 0 g5]ally appli$ at night "t1 & ! head _h to be well cov]$ ) oil$-silk1 a bladd]1 or "s o!r non-por\s sub/ance1 = h\rs1 to conf9e ! 8mixture0 to ! hair4 ,:5 ! 8b&ages0 7 remov$ 9 ! morn+ ! head appe>$ z ?\gh x _h be5 dipp$ 9 a fl\r-b>rel2 &1 oh6 :at a task x 0 to get x clean4 ,^! p[d]-dyes are seldom us$ n[2 b1 nev]!less1 x is z well to give two or ?ree recipes = mak+ !m4 7#a7 ,orfila's hair dye3 ,take ?ree p>ts ( li?>ge 7oxide ( lead7 & two ( quicklime1 bo? 9 an impalpable p[d]1 & mix !m c>efully4 ,:5 us$1 a portion ( ! p[d] is mix$ ) hot wat] or milk1 & appli$ to ! hair1 ! "p be+ aft]w>ds envelop$ 9 oil-sk9 or a cabbage-leaf = f\r or five h\rs4 7#b7 ,li?>ge two p>ts1 slak$ lime "o "p1 *alk two p>ts1 all f9ely p[d]$ & accurately mix$4 ,:5 requir$ = use mix ! p[d] ) w>m wat]1 dip a bru% into ! mixture1 & rub ! hair well ) x4 ,aft] two h\rs let ! hair be wa%$4 7#c7 ,li?>ge #d ozs41 quicklime oz42 r$uce to an impalpable p[d]1 & pass x ?r\gh a sieve4 ,keep x 9 a dry1 close bottle4 ,wa% ! hair fir/ ) soap & wat]1 !n ) tepid wat]2 wipe x dry1 & comb ) a clean comb4 ,mix ! dye 9 a sauc] ) hot wat] to ! consi/5ce ( cream1 & apply to ! hair1 beg9n+ at ! roots4 ,place ov] x f\r folds ( br[n pap]1 saturat$ ) hot wat]1 & dra9$ till cool1 & ov] ?is an oil-sk9 cap & a nightcap4 ,let x rema9 f f\r to eight h\rs1 accord+ to ! %ade requir$4 ,:5 remov$1 oil ! hair1 b d n wet x = ?ree or f\r days4 ,!re always 0 an objection to ^! p[d]-dyes ?r\gh ! "t consum$ 9 ! op]ation1 b ! foll[+ act m quickly4 7#d7 ,take ( lime 7slak$ by exposure to damp air7 two p>ts2 c>bonate ( lead 7pure :ite lead7 "o "p4 ,mix ?or\ghly1 pass ! mixture ?r\gh a gauze sieve1 & at once bottle x & keep ! air f gett+ to x4 ,us$ z ! prec$+1 b acts 9 "o-?ird or "o-f\r? ! "t4 ,! %ade dep5ds *iefly on ! l5g? ( its application4 7#e7 ,*evalli]3 ,take ( fre% slak$ lime #e dra*ms2 wat]1 #a oz4 ,mix1 /ra9 ?r\gh gauze1 & p\r ! milky solution into a #d-oz4 bottle4 ,next take ( sug> ( lead #e dra*ms1 wat] #c ozs42 dissolve4 ,add to ?is solution dry slak$ lime #a dra*m1 & agitate !m well toge!r = a few m9utes4 ,wa% ! result+ precipitate ) a little di/ill$ or s(t wat]1 dra91 & add x to ! 8milk ( lime0 9 ! #d-oz4 bottle4 ,la/ly1 %ake ! :ole well toge!r1 & aga9 be=e use1 if x be n at once appli$4 ,x mu/ be kept well cork$1 z ! la/1 b acts m quickly4 ,i c imag9e ! read] express+ surprise aft] read+ ! =ego+2 & to "y m5 9 ! trade x w\ld appe> m>vell\s t p %\ld submit to su* an ordeal4 ,t writ]s %\ld condemn ! use ( 8lead dyes0 7if ! la/ recipe giv5 be ! k9d allud$ to71 ,i c v well und]/&2 b liquid 7lead7 prep>ations ,i d n consid] op5 to su* disapprobation4 ,"o reason c be giv5 :y lead solutions are pref]able1 t is1 !y d n d>k5 ! sk92 &1 inde$1 ) liquid dyes 9 ! h&s ( a c>eful manipulator1 !re is little occasion to t\* ! sk92 b :5 su* an accid5t occurs1 x ought to be wip$ (f directly4 ,liquid dyes are easily appli$1 m c]ta9 9 _! effect1 &1 und\bt$ly1 less unpleasant to ^? :o h occasion to use !m4 ,liquid dyes may be divid$ into two classes1 namely1 ^? :i* gradually d>k5 ! hair1 & ^? :i* produce an in/antane\s *ange4 ,be=e proce$+ f>!r1 x is advisable to note ! *emical con/itu5ts ( hair1 because a successful result dep5ds1 to a c]ta9 ext5t1 at lea/1 ^u ?is be+ tak5 into consid]ation & act$ ^u accord+ly4 ,x is kn[n to sci5tific m5 t ! *emical con/itu5ts ( hair1 accord+ to ! analysis ( ,vauquel91 are--animal matt] 9 consid]able proportion2 a gre5i% black oil2 a :ite concrete oil1 9 small quantity2 phosphate ( lime2 c>bonate ( lime1 a trace2 oxide ( manganese2 iron1 sulphur1 & silex4 ,r$ hair conta9s a r$di% oil1 a l>ge proportion ( sulphur1 & a small quantity ( iron4 ,:ite hair exhibits a :ite oil1 ) phosphate ( magnesia4 ,! :ite hair ( old p]sons conta9s a maximum proportion ( phosphate ( lime4 ,9 prep>+ a dye = ! hair1 :]e ! requir$ elem5t is abs5t x has to be suppli$ by art4 ,= illu/ration1 9 r$ hair sulphur l>gely pr$om9ates1 & z a consequ5ce ! hair readily d>k5s2 9 :ite hair--! :ite hair ( ag$ p]sons--x is n to be f\nd2 h5ce ! necessity ( supply+ a mordant to produce ! desir$ effect4 ,to gradually d>k5 ! hair1 !n 7assum+ t sulphur is /ill develop$ 9 ! c\rse ( its =mation71 a wa% compos$ ( a weak solution ( ! salts ( iron1 su* z ! sulphate1 acetate1 lactate1 or protoiodide w be suffici5t4 ,a v small quantity ( glyc]9e c be add$ at pleasure1 b to ! latt] x is necess>y4 ,"h are two or ?ree recipes3--7#f7 ,sulphate ( iron 7gre52 cru%$71 #a dra*m2 rectifi$ _s1 #a fluid oz42 oil ( rosem>y1 #aj or #ab drops2 pure s(t wat]1 p9t2 agitate !m toge!r until solution & mixture are complete4 ,_m p]sons sub/itute ! /ronge/ old ale = ! 8wat]0 9 ! above4 ,ano!r =mula is1 7#g7 take ( ru/ ( iron1 #a dra*m2 old ale 7/ronge/71 #a p9t2 oil ( rosem>y1 #ab or fifte5 drops2 put !m into a bottle1 v loosely cork$1 agitate daily = t5 or twelve days1 & !n1 aft] repose1 decant ! cle> portion = use4 ,! foll[+ is said to be a fav\rite among fa%ionable ,p>isians4 7#h7 8,p>isian40 ,take ( sulphate ( iron 7gre571 #ae to #bj gra9s2 di/ill$ v]digris1 #e or #f gra9s2 :ite w9e 7good71 p9t2 eau de ,cologne 7to sc5t71 q4s42 mix4 ,x %\ld be m5tion$ t all ^! wa%es w 8iron-m\ld0 l95 if !y are br\ght 9 contact4 ,%\ld ! =ego+ n answ] satisfactorily1 ! cause w probably arise ?r\gh ! abs5ce ( ! normal sulphur ( ! hair1 & 9 t case1 wat] conta9+ a little sulphuret ( potassium1 or hydrosulphuret ( ammonia %\ld be us$ once or twice a week4 ,mu* has be5 said conc]n+ lead dyes1 & ! injuri\s effects produc$ ^u individuals :o h us$ !m = any l5g? ( "t4 ,dr4 ,b5jam9 ,godfrey1 a g5tleman ) :om ,i _h ! hon\r ( be+ acqua9t$1 devot$ consid]able att5tion to ?is "q1 & 9 8 treatise on 8,diseases ( ,hair10 publi%$ 9 #ahgb1 says3 8,! common hair cosmetics ( ! pres5t day conta9 lead4 ,! foll[+ is a r\gh analysis ( ! m not$3-- 8,mrs4 ,s4 ,a4 ,all5's ,_w's ,hair ,re/or]1 acetate ( lead1 sulphur & glyc]9e4 8,rossett]'s ,hair ,re/or]1 ditto4 8,simeon's ,am]ican ,hair ,re/or]1 ditto4 8,hall's ,vegetable ,sicilian ,hair ,r5ew]1 ditto4 8,aqua ,am>ella1 ditto4 8,helmsley's ,celebrat$ ,hair ,re/or]1 ditto4 8,melmo?'s ,ox=d ,hair ,re/or]1 ditto4 8,alex4 ,ross's ,great ,hair ,re/or]1 oxide ( lead1 c>bonate ( lead1 & pota%4 8,! quantity ( lead 9 any ( ^! c\ld n possibly d h>m4 ,! /ronge/ conta9$ b n9ety gra9s to ! half-p9t ( wat]1 ! weake/ b ?ree gra9s to a l bulk4 ,wat] 0 ! *ief +r$i5t ( !m all4 ,sulphur1 sometimes 9 ! =m ( milk ( sulphur1 0 us$2 9 ano!r1 ! common fl[] ( sulphur2 sometimes acetate ( lead1 at o!r times oxide ( t metal4 ,9 all ! *emical *ange is ! same1 namely1 ! solution ( ! metal ent]+ into ! filam5t by absorption1 !re unites ) sulphur1 =m+ a sulphuret ( ! mat]ial us$4 ,hair is por\s2 sulphur exi/s 9 hair ( all col\rs1 b is 9 excess 9 r$ & blonde hair4 ,?is is :y ^! hues become black5$ by ! *emicals us$ m p]fectly ?an any o!r %ades4 8,n[1 ! "q has be5 ask$ (t5times1 :e!r ! use ( lead solutions z hair-dyes be prejudicial to heal? or no8 8,z ?is is a "q ( mu* importance1 we w look c>efully into ! matt]4 8,! absorb5t p[] ( ! sk9 is n great )\t we remove its out] cov]+4 ,if we desire to get rem$ies absorb$ into ! sy/em1 we fir/ bli/] ! surface1 remove ! out] cov]+1 !n spr9kle our drugs ^u ! d]ma1 & ! mat]ial !n goes into ! body4 ,9 ! end]mic me?od ( giv+ m$ic9es1 we mu/ p]=ate ! sk9 to produce any effect4 ,! cuticle is ! protect+ ag5t--"o ( ,dame ,nature's wat]pro( cov]+s to keep out ext]nal poisons40 ,& aga9--8,n[1 ! sk9 ( ! head is additionally protect$ by an oily solution--! sebace\s secretion--:i* =bids entirely ! absorption ( any wat]y hair-dye4 ,s1 protect$ ) nature's wat]pro( cape & oil$ epid]mis1 x is impossible = an aque\s solution to ent] ! body & de/roy life4 ,i h c>efully analys$ ! cases record$ 9 :i* lead cosmetics are said to h caus$ dea?4 ,almo/ all ! cases occurr$ 9 ,france1 & lead1 9 an o9tm5t1 _h be5 us$4 ,n[1 an ungu5t c\ld easily be absorb$ by an oily sk92 !re=e ^! accid5ts are at lea/ probable4 ,! wat]y solutions ( lead = ! la/ t5 ye>s h be5 us$ l>gely by ?\s&s & t5s ( ?\s&s ( be+s 9 our l&1 yet n "o s+le case has be5 record$ ( poison+ f _! use4444 ,i h se5 pati5ts :o h us$ lead dyes = tw5ty ye>s1 b n a s+le sign ( lead poison+ has be5 reveal$4444 ,9 ! /ronge/ hair-dye t ,i h exam9$ !re has be5 b "o qu>t] ( an ounce 9 a half-p9t bottle ( wat]1 :i* w\ld la/ ! pati5t at lea/ a mon?4 ,putt+ all ^! ?+s toge!r1 "o c /ate t ! hair-dyes1 z us$ 9 ,engl& at ! pres5t day1 _c prove injuri\s to ! us]s40 ,ano!r writ]1 ,dr4 ,s\?wood ,smi?1 9 8 8,philosophy ( ,heal?10 /at$ t1 8,ov] ! ext]nal surface ( ! body1 or ! sk91 !re is spread a ?9 lay] ( solid1 inorganic1 ins5sible matt]1 l a v>ni% ( india-rubb]4 ,! obvi\s effect ( su* a b>ri] plac$ betwe5 ! ext]nal surface ( ! body & ext]nal objects is to mod]ate ! entrance ( sub/ances f )\t4 ,h5ce ! impunity ) :i* ! mo/ deadly poisons may rema9 9 contact ) ! sk91 ) :i* prussic acid1 ars5ic1 corrosive sublimate1 may be t\*$ & h&l$40 ,& ,sir ,erasmus ,wilson1 ,f4,r4,s41 writes3 8,! epid]mis acts z an imp$im5t to absorption1 & z su* is an important safegu>d aga9/ ! admission ( injuri\s & poison\s sub/ances into ! blood4 ,?us we f9d t x is only aft] long soak+1 or by cont9u$ friction1 t we are enabl$ to ov]come ?is natural def5ce1 & !n only to a v p>tial ext5t40 ,( lead dyes ! foll[+ recipes may be f\nd acceptable--7#i7 ,br[n hair dye3 ,acetate ( lead1 #b dra*ms2 hyposulphite ( soda1 #a dra*m2 rose-wat]1 #ad ozs42 glyc]9e1 #b ozs42 dissolve ! acetate ( lead & hyposulphite 9 sep>ate portions ( ! rose-wat]2 filt] sep>ately1 mix ! solutions1 & add ! glyc]9e4 ,! two foll[+ are f ,dr4 ,c4 ,h4 ,leon>d's "w on 8,! ,hair03 7#aj7 ,sug> ( lead1 #dj gra9s2 di/ill$ wat]1 #b ozs42 apply ?is to ! hair ?or\ghly1 & :5 ab\t dry apply a solution ( ! sulphide ( ammonium1 ab\t "o-f\r? ! /r5g? ( ! ,briti% ,ph>macopia solution4 ,! objection to ?is is its unpleasant od\r4 ,x gives1 ?\gh1 an excell5t br[n or black col\r to ! hair1 accord+ to ! /r5g? ( ! solutions employ$1 & does n /a9 ! scalp4 7#aa7 ,br[n hair-dye3 ,acetate ( lead1 dra*m2 fl[]s ( sulphur1 #a dra*m2 wat]1 #d ozs42 %ake well & apply night & morn+ = a week or s1 !n decrease ! frequ5cy ( ! application1 gradually1 to once a week1 or once 9 two weeks4 ,?is is a sl[ dye1 yet "o t answ]s fairly :5 !re is n mu* greyness 9 ! hair4 ,x also is a v mild prep>ation4 ,! deposit left ^u ! sk9 c be easily bru%$ (f :5 x becomes dry4 ,l all ( ! lead dyes1 x acts be/ ^u hair ( a r$di% t+e1 ?\gh grey hair is turn$ to a br[ni% col\r by x4 ,its effect ^u light hair is to give m ( a d>k br[n t9t to x4 ,i n[ (f] "s rem>ks on silv] dyes1 = probably !y are m 9 use ?an any ( ! o!r k9ds4 ,"o reason is1 !y are quick] 9 _! action1 &1 ) c>eful manipulation1 m decid$ 9 effect4 ,be=e application1 h[ev] 7inde$1 be=e any dye c be effective71 x is important to ?or\ghly wa% ! hair ) soda or soap & wat]1 :i* mu/ be well r9s$ out ) pl5ty ( tepid or cold wat]1 & ! hair dri$4 ,x is !n ready = ! dye4 ,x %\ld be borne 9 m9d t silv] dyes w /a9 l951 ! sk91 & f+] nails1 & almo/ any ?+ ! dye is br\ght 9 contact )4 ,"u ^! circum/ances1 !n1 c>efulness mu/ be obs]v$4 ,sunlight1 & ! op5 air w produce a p]man5t *ange 9 a few m9utes2 ) diffus$ daylight x takes mu* long]1 p]haps two or ?ree h\rs4 ,b sci5ce has /epp$ 91 &1 ) ! employm5t ( a good mordant1 ! desir$ alt]ation ( col\r is effect$ almo/ in/antane\sly4 ,%\ld ! sk91 h[ev]1 be wett$ ) any ( ! dye1 wipe x (f directly1 = if left unt\*$1 a d>k m>k w be ! result4 ,a clo? damp$ ) a solution ( hydrosulphuret ( ammonia1 or sulphuret ( potassium1 & rubb$ on ! spots1 w remove rec5t m>ks4 ,s w a solution ( iodide or cyanide ( potassium1 b ^!1 on acc\nt ( _! poison\s qualities1 are be/ avoid$4 ,prop] caution 9 us+ ! dye1 a pair ( old gloves to cov] ! h&s1 & "s little practical exp]i5ce w prev5t any unpleasant results4 7#ab7 ,"o solution1 cry/allis$ nitrate ( silv]1 #a dra*m2 gum arabic1 #a dra*m2 di/ill$ wat]1 #b ozs42 mix4 7#ac7 ,ano!r3 "o solution1 nitrate ( silv]1 #aib gra9s2 di/ill$ wat]1 #h ozs4 ,dissolve & add gradually suffici5t ( ! /ronge/ solution ( ammonia to precipitate ! silv]4 ,!n1 aft]w>ds1 j z mu* z is necess>y to r$issolve ! precipitate4 ,! foll[+ dyes require two solutions1 & produce a rapid *ange3 7#ad7 ,no4 #a4 ,hydrosulphate ( ammonia1 #a oz42 solution ( pota%1 #c dra*ms2 di/ill$ wat]1 #a oz42 mix4 ,apply ?is ) a too?-bru%1 & 9 ab\t a qu>t] ( an h\r use4--,no4 #b4 ,nitrate ( silv]1 #a dra*m2 di/ill$ wat]1 #b ozs4 ,9 all cases :5 two liquids are employ$1 ! vessels into :i* !y are p\r$1 ! bru%es us$ = apply+ !m1 combs1 etc41 mu/ be kept sep>ate1 o!rwise ! action ( ! dye ^u ! hair w be de/roy$4 ,g5]ally1 ! mordant is us$ fir/ & ! dye aft]w>ds1 b ?is ord] is rev]s$ 9 ! foll[+ 8,in/antane\s ,hair ,dye10 ! recipe = mak+ :i* is tak5 f ! "w by ,mr4 ,a4 ,j4 ,cooley4 7#ae7 ,! :ite liquid1 or 8dye10 is a solution ( nitrate ( silv] 7#a to #h1 #ab to #af74 ,?is is appli$ fir/4 ,x is foll[$ by ! 8mordant0 7dilut$74 ,! latt] is usually a mixture ( hydrosulphuret ( ammonia & di/ill$ wat]1 9 ne>ly equal proportions4 ,! col\r ( ! hair1 unalt]$ by ! silv] solution1 in/antly turns 8br[n0 or 8black10 accord+ to ! /r5g? ( ! dye1 :5 moi/5$ ) ! hydrosulphuret4 ,!n !re are 8vegetable dyes10 8vegeto-m9]al dyes10 8animal dyes10 8pommade dyes10 & wa%es = produc+ r$1 auburn1 gold51 gold5 br[n1 & o!r %ades ( col\r 9 ! hair1 b to g fully into ?is subject at ! pres5t mom5t1 w\ld be a little beside ! object ,i h 9 view4 ,i might dismiss ! subject ( dye+ 8false hair10 z x is call$1 ) a few brief rem>ks1 see+ t hairdress]s r>ely ?9k x wor? _! :ile to p]=m ! exp]im5t2 b1 z x sometimes happ5s1 new hair has to be add$ to t :i* is old & fad$1 to meet ! requirem5ts ( economical cu/om]s1 !n 8h[ to re/ore x0 becomes a "q4 ,( c\rse1 if ! hair be impov]i%$1 & assumes a 8foxy0 hue1 x _c be re/or$2 b--:at answ]s ! purpose j z well--x c be dy$4 ,!re is only "o o!r reason to be adduc$1 s f> z ,i c tell1 = dye+ 8false hair10 & t is1 :5 a tradesman has a quantity ( r$ hair by him :i* is unsaleable1 &1 consequ5tly1 ?9ks prop] to make x a m common col\r4 ,:e!r r$-hair$ p h g5]ally 8good crops10 or :e!r !y d>k5 _! hair by ! use ( suitable prep>ations1 ,i w n pret5d to say2 b c]ta9ly r$ hair is n v (t5 9 reque/4 ,:ite1 grey1 auburn1 flax51 & sev]al *oice pale col\rs are too valuable to be int]f]$ )1 & ord9>y col\rs are suffici5tly pl5tiful )\t resort+ to ! use ( dye4 ,to dye 8false hair10 !n1 "o ( ! lead & sulphur dyes m5tion$ 9 ! prec$+ pages w answ] e purpose1 & its action may1 9 "s in/ances1 be promot$ by boil+4 ,or any ( ! me?ods us$ 9 dye+ wool may be employ$ ) good effect1 =1 9 ?is connection1 !re is n mu* dissimil>ity 9 hair & wool1 & :at w dye "o w dye ! o!r4 ,9 dye+ blacks1 & d>k col\rs1 logwood =ms "o ( ! pr9cipal +r$i5ts1 & 9 conjunction ) gallnuts x imp>ts a lu/r\s appe>ance4 ,x %\ld be us$ ei!r hot or boil+1 accord+ to ! dep? ( col\r requir$4 ,! accompany+ =mula is v effective4 7#af7 ,logwood1 lb42 copp]as 7sulphate ( iron71 #a oz42 nut galls1 #a oz42 & ab\t #b qu>ts ( wat]4 ,boil = an h\r1 or long] accord+ to ! %ade requir$4 ,x is necess>y to obs]ve t ! hair %\ld be tak5 out ( ! dye-ba? sev]al times1 & freely expos$ to ! air4 ,?is is call$ 8air+10 & is done to all[ ! oxyg5 ( ! atmosph]e to act ^u ! +r$i5ts ( ! dye1 & especially on ! iron2 z )\t ?is action ( ! air a good col\r _c be produc$4 ,to possess a head ( hair ( ! 8gold50 blonde1 flax51 or auburn hue1 has be5 ! desire ( _m ladies f "t immemorial1 & v>i\s exp$i5ts h be5 resort$ to to produce ! desir$ effect4 ,at ! pres5t mom5t ,i d n int5d to dilate ^u ?is subject1 b ( all sub/ances us$ = ! purpose ( blea*+ or blan*+ hair1 :e!r x be ^u or (f ! head1 no?+ surpasses p]oxide ( hydrog51 respect+ :i* ,mr4 ,alfr$ ,h4 ,mason says3--8,! be/ kn[n application = p]oxide ( hydrog5 is probably 9 its employm5t z an auricome = blea*+ d>k col\r$ hair1 produc+ ! yell[ t9t3 = ?is purpose a #aj-volume solution is us$1 ! hair is saturat$ ) x1 & !n expos$ = two or ?ree days1 :5 ! oxyg5 is lib]at$ & ! hair p>tly decol\ris$2 if want$ 9 a %ort] "t1 aft] imm]sion ! hair is dri$ 9 a wat]-ba? = a few h\rs1 b ! ultimate result is n s satisfactory4 ,a ,london hairdress] produces :ite hair1 & x is conjectur$ t he employs a #bj-volume solution1 ) ! addition ( /rong solution ( ammonia1 & s completely decol\rises & blea*es ! hair1 at ! same "t r5d]+ x practically de/roy$ except+ s long z x holds toge!r40 ,i ?9k en\gh has be5 said ^u dye+1 to enable ! intellig5t read] to ov]come _m ( ! difficulties t are sure to arise 9 ! c\rse ( 8 bus9ess pursuits4 ,! op]ation1 :e!r x be p]=m$ ^u ! gr[+ hair1 or ^u t :i* is fad$ & dead1 mu/ be c>ri$ out ) c>efulness & pati5ce to ensure a satisfactory result4 ,m5 9 all bran*es ( sci5ce1 h to p]=m "o exp]im5t aft] ano!r be=e !y c a*ieve success1 & hairdress]s1 if !y wi% to be clev] 9 _! pr(ession1 mu/ be cont5t to d ! same4 ,,*apt] ,v4 ,! ,fir/ ,lesson 9 ,wig-mak+1 ,weav+ ! ,hair--8,once ,910 ,close or ,r+let ,weft--8,twice ,910 or ,front ,weft--8,?rice ,910 ,crop1 or ,wig ,weft--8,fly0 ,weft1 = ,top r[s--,mak+ ,r+let ,bun*es--,tufts--,curls on ,combs--,alex&ra ,curls4 ,i n[ approa* ! second &1 p]haps1 mo/ important "p ( my "w1 viz41 ! art ( ,wig-mak+1 & "u t head+ ,i int5d deal+ ) ! manufacture ( ,r+lets2 8,tails10 ,twi/s1 or ,swit*es2 ,plaits2 ,b&eaux2 ,fronts2 ,*ignons2 ,scalpettes2 ,fillets2 ,scalps2 ,wigs2 &1 9 %ort1 ev]y?+ :i* app]ta9s to ?is bran* ( ! bus9ess4 ,weav+ is "o ( ! fir/ lessons :i* a boy has to le>n 9 a hairdress]'s %op :]e 8a k ( bo>d-"w is requir$40 ,no matt] :e!r he is employ$ 9 a fir/-class e/abli%m5t :]e sup]ior "w has to be done1 or 9 a %op ( less pret5sion1 good weav+ %\ld be aim$ at1 & dem&s prim>y consid]ation4 ,9 "s ( ! pr9cipal h\ses1 pr(essional weav]s are engag$1 :o take ! hair home ) !m1 & br+ x back :5 complet$1 receiv+ s mu* p] y>d = _! lab\r1 ! price be+ regulat$ by ! k9d ( weft made4 ,?is practice is g5]ally pursu$1 = assi/ants h n mu* "t or incl9ation to weave1 _! s]vices be+ m valuable1 s ?is op]ation is confid$ to o!r & less skilful h&s2 b :oev] does x1 or :]ev] x is done1 excell5ce %\ld always be aim$ at4 ,e hairdress] is m or less acqua9t$ ) ! weav+-frame1 !re=e ,i ne$ n give p>ticul> in/ructions 9 ref]5ce !reto4 ,besides1 ! accompany+ illu/ration indicates ne>ly all t ,i w\ld say ab\t x4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,f ! above x w be se5 t ! hair to be wov5 is plac$ 9 ! bru%es :i* lie ^u ! table2 ! roots all[$ to project a little1 & conv5i5t to ! workman's h&4 ,! ?ree 8/r+s0 z !y are sometimes call$1 are 9 reality silk1 "o ske9 ( weav+-silk be+ w\nd r\nd ea* groove ( ! weav+-peg4 ,! silk c be _h ei!r f9e1 m$ium1 or co>se1 accord+ to ! ta/e or requirem5t ( ! us]4 ,a tack is g5]ally driv5 into ! o!r peg 7to :i* ! 8silks10 by means ( a loop1 are atta*$7 & ar\nd x ! weft is w\nd z x increases 9 quantity1 or occasion may dem&4 ,:5 ! 8frame0 is 9 position1 all ! silks ought to be ( an equal degree ( t5sion--nei!r too tight nor yet too slack2 & a 8jockey0 %\ld be provid$ 9 ! ev5t ( its be+ want$4 ,d n be> heavily ^u ! silks 9 a clumsy mann]2 avoid weav+ too mu* 9 "o place1 & z ! weft l5g!ns1 "w high] up1 t[>ds ! weav+ peg4 ,by obs]v+ ^! rules y may escape ! annoyance ( ! silks break+--a vexati\s mi%ap1 :i* sometimes necessitates undo+ t :i* is done1 & re-weav+ x4 ,%\ld a silk break1 h[ev]1 y mu/ tie x close to ! la/ weft1 b !re is a p>ticul> way ( fa/5+ :i* c easily be %[n b is awkw>d to describe4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4 8,once ,90 weft1 :i* has sev]al designations1 & is also indicat$ by ! lett] ,n1 is *iefly us$ :5 a mod]ate quantity ( hair is requir$ to be put toge!r 9 a small compass4 ,x is employ$ = 8top-r[s10 8bun*es0 or 8tufts10 8twi/s0 or 8tails10 plaits1 *ignons1 etc4 ,to enable ! read] m easily to compreh5d ! modus op]&i1 ,i w = ! sake ( conv5i5ce numb] ! silks #a1 #b1 #c1 beg9n+ at ! bottom4 ,on ! next page an illu/ration ( ! weft is giv51 to d :i* proce$ z foll[s4 ,draw out a weft & hold x firmly betwe5 ! ?umb & f+] ( ! left h&4 ,also1 ga!r ! silks toge!r z indicat$ 9 ,fig4 #a1 & ) ! index f+] ( ! "r h& pu% ! roots betwe5 #a & #b1 & draw !m t[>ds y betwe5 #b & #c4 ,turn ! root ov] ! top silk2 draw x betwe5 #c & #b2 pass x "u #a & #b1 draw+ x ?r\gh #c & #b aga94 ,f9ally1 turn ! roots ov] ! top & draw !m betwe5 ! two l[] silks4 ,!n hold ! longe/ portion ( ! hair ) ! ?umb & f+] ( ! left h&1 firmly hold ! roots 9 a simil> mann] ) ! "r1 & draw !m up z close1 i4e41 z %ort z possible to ! silks1 at ! same "t slid+ ! weft d[n to its de/9ation1 z %[n 9 ! fir/ engrav+4 ,pu% up close ) ! ?umb & f+] ( ! "r h&1 &1 %\ld ! hair be /ubborn1 x w be necess>y to use ! 8jockey10 ( :i* ,i spoke be=e4 ,?is proc$ure appe>s some:at difficult to ! un9itiat$1 no d\bt2 b ,i ?9k t p]sons 9 ! trade w f9d x tol]ably easy4 ,if prop]ly execut$1 ! "w w be regul> & smoo?--n 8g\ty10 z x sometimes appe>s :5 done by a c>eless p]son1 b firm & compact4 ,?is k9d ( weft1 or1 inde$1 any k9d ( weft1 c be made co>se or f9e1 accord+ to ! purpose = :i* x is int5d$2 b h[ev] ?ick or ?9 x may be1 ! "w mu/ be uni=m & ev5ly set4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4 8,twice ,910 or ,front ,weft 7,fig4 #c71 some:at resembles1 :5 ! silks are op51 ! lett] ,m1 & to d ?is prop]ly ! weav+ has to be increas$ s z to keep ! wefts f>!r ap>t1 & )al1 firm4 ,%\ld ! weft be loosely done1 x w be unpleasant to sew up1 & ! job :5 complet$ is n likely to be durable or satisfactory4 ,foll[ ! directions previ\sly giv51 until y come to 8draw+ x ?r\gh #c & #b aga940 ,hav+ done ?is1 cont9ue z foll[s3--,pass x "u #a & #b1 draw x ?r\gh #c & #b1 turn x ov] ! top1 & end z be=e by br++ ! roots ?r\gh 7or betwe57 ! l[] silks4 ,?is k9d ( weft c be execut$ by an exp]t bo? rapidly & well1 b p]haps a y>d an h\r w\ld be consid]$ satisfactory1 especially if x 7 f\nd p]fect :5 complet$4 8,?rice ,910 ,crop1 or ,wig ,weft1 %\ld be v f9ely made1 tak+ ab\t six or eight hairs at a "t to make a weft1 dep5d+ ( c\rse on ! quality ( ! hair us$4 ,ea* weft %\ld be tol]ably wide ap>t1 & firmly wov51 if durability 9 a wig be requir$4 ,:5 x is rememb]$ t tw5ty or ?irty y>ds are want$ 9 ! manufacture ( a g5tleman's wig1 my reason = say+ t ! wefts %\ld be f9e & well-set mu/ be app>5t1 = 7 x o!rwise1 ! article w\ld be heavy & uncom=table to ! we>]4 ,lightness ought nev] to be lo/ sight ( 9 matt]s ( ?is description1 nei!r %\ld /r5g? & durability be =gott54 ,be>+ ^! in/ructions 9 m9d !n1 proce$ z ?\gh y 7 go+ to make 8,front weft0 b giv+ ! hair a turn or two m1 & end by draw+ ! roots ?r\gh betwe5 ! l[] silks4 ,nimble f+]s c d ?is k9d ( weft 9 a v exp$iti\s mann]1 & ,i h he>d ( regul> weav]s mak+ ab\t ?ree y>ds ( wig weft 9 an h\r--s mu* = con/ant practice4 8,fly0 weft1 = top r[s1 lies v close & compact2 ! roots fly ap>t or sep>ate f ! o!r portion ( ! hair1 & !y are ei!r to be remov$ by ! scissors1 or else press$ d[nw>ds ) hot p9*+-irons previ\s to cutt+ d[n ! weft4 ,inde$1 x w\ld be advantage\s to 8p9*0 all pieces ( close weft1 :]e flatness & neatness are desir$4 8,fly0 weft cov]s "w v nicely2 x %\ld always be f9ely done & pu%$ up close4 ,x is made ! same way z 8once 910 b ) ?is exception1 namely1--in/ead ( draw+ ! roots 8betwe5 ! two l[] silks0 at ! la/ movem5t1 draw !m aga9 ?r\gh ! top ones4 ,! roots w /& out or 8fly0 9 an upw>d direction1 & x may be necess>y to use a 8jockey40 ,by pref]5ce1 press ! roots ) hot irons in/ead ( cutt+ !m (f1 = a weft or two might come out 9 we>1 & !n1 to say ! lea/1 x w\ld look unsightly1 & jeop>dise ! re/4 ,i %all h occasion to ref] aga9 to weav+1 b en\gh has be5 said = ! pres5t4 8,r+let bun*es0 applies *iefly to side curls made ( r+let hair1 irrespective ( ! l5g? ( hair1 or quantity4 ,!y c be sewn up close1 %[+ a back z well z front2 ) all ! weft conceal$ except t ^u ! top1 or 9 diamond %ap$-op5+s1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,! illu/ration repres5ts "o ( a pair ( 8bun*es0 made ) ?ree-qu>t]s ( an ounce ( f\rte5-in* r+let hair4 ,to beg9 !n3 sep>ate ! hair1 putt+ ! curls :i* turn "o way toge!r1 & d ! same ) ! o!rs4 ,all curls :i* come f ! hair-m]*ant turn bo? "r & left--two r+lets to "o lock ( hair4 ,9 mak+ up ei!r1 always rememb] t ! curls %\ld be s arrang$ z to 8turn to ! face10 = if y d n att5d to ?is at ! beg9n+1 ! curl is n likely to =m or droop prop]ly1 & !re w mo/ likely be a 8cramp0 necessitat+ its be+ roll$ up aga9 & heat appli$4 ,) new "w ?is is be/ avoid$1 & by att5tion to ! in/ructions ! curls w be made 8"r & left0 z !y always ought to be4 ,next weigh ! hair1 putt+ an equal quantity into ea* scale4 ,tie up ea* lot2 c>d x prop]ly1 & x w assume almo/ ( itself1 or ) a v little help1 a curl4 ,n[ y h two curls1 ti$ at ! roots1 & incl9+ "o to ! "r & ! o!r to ! left4 ,take "o ( !m1 place x 9 ! bru%es1 & weave 7see ,fig4 #b72 :5 wov51 comb x out c>efully :ile on ! frame1 & =m sev]al r+lets all turn+ ! same way4 ,cut ! middle silk six or eight in*es f ! weft1 tie x to ! o!rs1 & fa/5 (f securely4 ,n[ weave ! o!r tress1 mak+ ! weft to correspond1 s z to resemble ! fir/ piece z mu* z possible1 9 e respect2 ! curls ( c\rse be+ all turn$ 9 a rev]se direction4 ,fa/5 (f & cut d[n z be=e4 ,y h n[ ! weft = a pair ( curls1 & x has to be sewn up4 ,take "o ( ! pieces1 & d\ble x1 press+ ! fold ) y\r ?umb & f+] s z to tempor>ily m>k x4 ,?is w give ! c5tre ( ! piece4 ,fold "o ( ^! halves into ?ree 7s z to get at ! wid? to make !m7 & !n let ! top "o g loose4 ,y are n[ hold+ betwe5 ! ?umb & f+] ( ! left h& two r[s ( weft4 ,sew ! end to ! adjo9+ r[ ) silk specially made = trade use1 & ! /it*es are all to be 9 "o spot4 ,!n sew at a prop] di/ance aga9 & aga9 9 ! same mann]1 & ?is w complete ! two l[] r[s ( weft4 ,take up ano!r r[1 s arrang+ z to br+ ! /it*es exactly 9 ! c5tre ( ! 8diamond0 until y get to ! end ( t r[4 ,d ! same ) any o!r r[s until complet$4 ,pull into =m ) ! ?umb & f+]2 slightly damp ! weft1 & press into %ape ) w>m p9*+-irons4 ,! o!r bun*1 ( c\rse1 is to be made to mat*4 ,if int5d$ = /ock !y _h bett] be atta*$ ) ! ne$le & silk1 s z to keep ! 8bun*es0 toge!r1 o!rwise !y w get mix$ & cause confusion4 ,i mu/ "h obs]ve t ! exp]i5c$ eye w notice a slight diff]5ce betwe5 ! lett]press description & ! illu/ration4 ,i did n p]ceive ! error until too late1 b = ! sake ( accuracy ,i ?9k x necess>y to draw att5tion to x4 ,! weft z %[n 9 ! engrav+ passes f bottom to top & vice v]s1 :]eas 9 ! description x is 9 r[s--"o above ! o!r4 ,! arti/ has 9 ! ma9 giv5 ! design correctly en\gh1 b ! modus op]&i by :i* x is produc$ is n s cle>ly indicat$ z ,i w\ld desire4 ,sometimes ! weft is sewn up close1 & t is m p>ticul>ly ! case :5 space is tak5 into consid]ation4 ,if ! "w has to cov] a r l>ge surface1 x is be/ to sew x up 9 diamond %apes1 b if x is to be cond5s$1 !n ! wefts %\ld be f9e1 close1 & made up 9 z compact a mann] z possible4 ,take1 = in/ance1 ano!r lot ( hair1 ! same 9 weight & l5g? z ! prec$+4 ,obs]ve ! in/ructions giv5 conc]n+ its division1 & weave z be=e4 ,measure (f z previ\sly describ$1 & suppos+ t y all[ = six r[s ( weft1 proce$ z foll[s3--,fold back "o ov] & above ! o!r1 & securely /it* ! end by way ( a comm5cem5t4 ,pu% ! ne$le t[>ds y ?r\gh ! c5tre ( ! l[] r[ ( weft1 & f y ?r\gh ! upp] r[ ( weft4 ,avoid sew+ 8ov] & ov]40 ,keep all ! /it*es small1 & ! sew+-silk is n to be d\bl$4 ,hav+ work$ 9 ?is way f end to end1 take ano!r r[ ( weft1 & put 9 position ov] ! l[] r[4 ,sew x z be=e describ$1 & s on until ! :ole is complet$4 ,! weft w be se5 at ! back1 occupy+1 :5 made up1 ab\t half ! dep? requir$ 9 ,fig4 #d4 ,! work] mu/ be p>ticul> 9 keep+ ! r[s ( weft /raight & flat1 :i* he c easily d ) att5tion & ! prop] use ( 8 ?umb & f+]4 ,i say 8f+]10 because curl$ hair %\ld nev] be held 9 ! h&1 = ! w>m? ( ! h& is likely to cramp or weak5 ! curl4 ,comb out1 press1 & dress z be=e describ$4 ,ano!r way1 s z to hide ! weft altoge!r1 except+ ! top r[1 c be done :5 requir$4 ,take a simil> lot ( hair1 & weave x4 ,comm5ce sew+ up z be=e1 & :5 ! two r[s are done1 in/ead ( turn+ ! weft backw>ds & =w>ds s z to %[ ! "w1 turn x r\nd & r\nd 9 ord] to conceal x1 /ill sew+-up flat z previ\sly describ$4 ,tufts ( hair are side pieces or curls1 & ! weft is w\nd r\nd a side comb in/ead ( be+ sewn ^u x1 z w pres5tly be m5tion$4 ,! ^w 8tuft0 may be appli$ to almo/ any small piece ( po/i*e hair1 :e!r x be ^u a comb or a hair-p91 z 8p9-curls0 are made4 ,i h seldom he>d ! designation ( 8tuft0 appli$ to any piece ( hair 9 a ,london %op1 ?\gh ,i h kn[n x to be common 9 "s p>ts ( ! c\ntry1 !re=e x may be tak5 to be a prov9cial m ?an a common t]m us$ 9 ! trade4 ,tufts1 !n1 c be made ( any l5g? & ?ickness1 dep5d+ entirely ^u ! use = :i* !y are int5d$4 ,two tufts1 i4e41 two bun*es ( lightly-=m$ r+let curls1 might be employ$ 9 a lady's coiffure ) consid]able advantage4 ,!y c\ld be plac$ beh9d ! e>s1 or s arrang$ ne> ! tie 7or knot7 z to =m a pretty ca*e-peigne1 :ile 8p9-curls0 c\ld be put :]ev] fancy might direct4 ,to make ! tufts1 take f9e weft1 & side combs ) r op5 tee?4 ,arrange bo? hair & combs = ! "r & left sides4 ,fa/5 ! weft to t "p ( ! comb :i* is int5d$ to g ne>e/ ! =ehead1 & let ! hair hang t[>ds ! face4 ,hav+ secur$ ! weft ) ne$le & silk1 cut ! silk (f1 leav+ only ! weft ^u ! comb4 ,!n comm5ce w9d+ up ! weft ar\nd ! back ( ! comb1 keep+ x firm1 & all[+ "o r[ ( weft to g betwe5 ea* too?4 ,ea* lay] ( weft conceals t :i* prec$es x1 & ! weft %\ld all be us$ up be=e rea*+ ! top4 ,ab\t two-?irds ( ! back ( ! comb might be cov]$1 & :5 ?is is rea*$ f9i% (f ) ! ne$le4 ,! hair w be f\nd 9 a r r\gh condition1 b t does n mu* signify to a pati5t workman4 ,x w be necess>y to get "s "o to hold x 7:i* mu/ be done ) bo? h&s1 to prev5t any undue /ra9 ^u ! comb7 :ile y dis5tangle ! hair1 turn+ ! curl ov] ! "w on ! back ( ! comb4 ,put x on a block1 press ! "w ) w>m irons1 & dress out 9 ! =m requir$4 8,p9-curls0 are simply pieces ( weft ( %ort curl$ hair1 & made up aft] ! mann] j describ$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,curls on combs1 :5 nicely made1 are v effective1 be+ int5d$ to we> at ! sides4 ,tortoise-%ell combs %\ld be us$1 r op5 tee?1 & 8grail$10 ( a pliable quality1 & ^? kn[n 9 ! trade z 8rights0 & 8lefts0 ,i h always f\nd to be ! be/ = ?is k9d ( "w4 ,divide1 & prep>e ! hair z 9 ! previ\s in/ances4 ,weave "o r[ ( 8fly weft0 out ( ea* piece1 & ?is %\ld be z long z ! f9e tee? ( ! comb ext5d4 ,beg9 & f9i% ?is weft 9 a secure mann]1 & let ea* piece be di/9ct f ! o!r4 ,p9*1 & cut d[n4 ,weave ! o!r two pieces 9 ! ord9>y way1 beg9n+ & f9i%+ (f ea* "o sep>ately4 ,comb out1 p9*1 & cut d[n4 ,y h n[ f\r di/9ct pieces ( weft1 a long & a %ort1 f9e piece = ea* comb4 ,take ! longe/ piece ( weft & fold x into two1 ?ree1 or f\r l5g?s 7z ! case may be71 ea* l5g? be+ at lea/ a qu>t] ( an in* %ort] ?an ! f9e-too!d "p ( ! comb4 ,sew x up close1 because1 9 ?is in/ance1 ! "w has to be 8cond5s$40 ,y _c make ! weft too flat1 &1 ( c\rse1 ! weft is to lie ^u ! comb4 ,comb out & p9*4 ,take up ! comb1 say1 = ! "r side1 & ! 8fly0 weft = t side also4 ,hold ! curls droop+ 9 y\r left h&1 & ! comb 7! concave "p upp]mo/7 9 y\r "r4 ,pass ! tee? ( ! comb ?r\gh ! hair ne>e/ ! weft1 & !n pull x g5tly into its place4 ,take y\r ne$le & silk &1 z ne$le-wom5 say1 8fa/5 on40 ,?is "p ( ! job is to be done c>efully1 tak+ "o /it* to ea* too? 7! weft be+ d[n t[>ds ! po9ts71 ! reason = ?is is to avoid break+ ! tee?4 ,be> 9 m9d to make ! /it*es loose1 o!rwise ! weft w n fit into its "r position close to ! top ( ! comb2 b if !y are too slack ! "w w n keep 9 its place at all4 ,?is important po9t1 l _m o!rs1 c only be ga9$ by obs]vation & practice4 ,! 8fly0 weft1 rememb]1 is 9 ! concave or holl[ "p ( ! comb1 :ile ! 8twice 90 weft is to be on ! convex1 or upp] "p4 ,take ?is "p1 !n & put x into its place4 ,incl9e x t[>ds ! po9ts to all[ ! ne$le to pass ?r\gh easily4 ,fa/5 on1 & make a /it* to e too? z be=e4 ,pu% x up close to ! 8top0 r[1 & ) two or ?ree small /it*es tak5 at r&om connect ! :ole toge!r4 ,pursue ! same plan ) respect to ! "o int5d$ = ! opposite side1 :51 ( c\rse1 !y w =m a pair4 ,comb out1 press ) curl+ irons1 & arrange4 ,i may say1 int] alia1 t :ile ! hair is 9 a r\gh1 di%evell$ /ate1 a little--only a little--( ! v be/ olive oil1 nicely p]fum$1 %\ld be appli$4 ,x facilitates ! action ( ! comb1 r5d]s ! hair easi] to dress1 & adds a gloss to x :i*1 if n ov]done1 height5s ! effect4 ,pomade ( any k9d %\ld n be us$ to curl$1 or1 inde$1 to any k9d ( 8false0 hair4 ,my reason = say+ s is1 t x t5ds to 8clog0 ! hair1 does n imp>t su* a f9e gloss1 & causes x soon] to become /icky4 8,alex&ra curls0 =m a v pretty addition to ! coiffure4 ,! curl or curls are occasionally made ) a portion ( ! back hair set ap>t = ! purpose1 b x sometimes happ5s t !re is n suffici5t 9 quantity or l5g?1 or t x w n reta9 ! curl1 & !n ! necessity arises = artificial aid4 ,! long r+let curls "h repres5t$1 7 nam$ aft] ,h] ,royal ,highness ! ,pr9cess ( ,wales1 & = a great l5g? ( "t rema9$ 9 fa%ion4 ,sometimes two or m are worn1 & 9 t case1 !y w\ld be s dispos$ z to fall 9 front & beh9d ! %\ld]4 ,!y add a *>m to ! coiffure1 & imp>t a nice f9i% to ! :ole4 ,!y are made z foll[s3--,take ?ree-qu>t]s ( an ounce ( eighte5-in* hair1 or an ounce ( tw5ty-in* hair1 & s on 9 proportion accord+ to ! l5g?4 ,! hair mu/ be specially prep>$ = ! purpose1 o!rwise ! curl w be too heavy1 & 8break0 t[>ds ! top4 ,to prep>e ! hair = ,alex&ra curls take1 say1 half an ounce ( tw5ty-in*1 & a l quantity ( twelve-in* hair1 curl$4 ,c>d & mix ! two l5g?s toge!r1 :i*1 if prop]ly done1 w =m a long curl1 & light at ! bottom z x %\ld be4 ,b ,messrs4 ,r4 ,hov5d5 & ,sons1 z well z o!r hair m]*ants1 keep 8tap] curl$ hair = ,alex&ra curls0 9 /ock1 ( div]s l5g?s & %ades ( col\r1 & x is mu* bett] to obta9 ! hair already manipulat$1 ?an to d x oneself4 ,! mode ( mak+ ^! curls is simil> to t adopt$ = mak+ hair-twi/s1 & fully describ$ 9 ! next *apt]4 ,hav+ be5 sewn up1 ! hair mu/ be c>efully comb$ out1 p9*$ at ! top :]e ! "w is1 & dress$4 ,a long /ick1 t]m$ a 8curl-/ick10 is g5]ally us$ = ! latt] purpose2 ! hair be+ adroitly put r\nd x 7comm5c+ at ! top1 n at ! bottom7 & bru%$2 ! /ick is !n )drawn & ! curls rema9 z %[n on ! previ\s page4 ,illu/ration3 #a4 ,spani% ,coil ,*ignon4 #b4 ,beatrice ,*ignon4 #c4 ,/raight ,hair ,b&eau4 #d4 ,cable ,twi/s1 = mak+ ! ,spani% ,coil ,*ignon1 c4 ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,mak+ ,twi/s1 8,tails10 or ,swit*es--,back & ,side ,plaits--,*ignon ,univ]sel--,! ,zephyr ,coiffure--,semi-wav$ ,curl$ ,*ignon--,a ,novel ,*ignon--,( ,*ignons 9 g5]al4 ,twi/s1 8,tails0 or ,swit*es are made fir/ into sections or /ems1 & two1 ?ree1 f\r1 or five1 are requir$ to =m a complete twi/1 or 8tail40 ,! ^w 8tail0 is us$ m z a trade t]m ?an any?+ else1 al?\gh ,i h se5 x writt5 ^u tickets atta*$ to long pieces ( hair1 expos$ = sale 9 hairdress]s' %op-w9d[s4 ,x is n by any means an elegant way to indicate ! article1 & 8torsade0 or 8twi/10 is1 to my ?9k+1 pref]able4 ,! numb] ( /ems employ$ is1 g5]ally1 ?ree1 & !y may be long or %ort1 accord+ to ! l5g? ( hair2 ! purpose = :i* ! article is design$2 & la/1 b n lea/1 ! price4 ,& "h1 aga91 ! price1 z well z ! /yle ( manufacture1 admits ( great v>iety4 ,a twi/ c be made to sell = p\nds1 or %ill+s1 accord+ to ! col\r1 l5g?1 ?ickness1 quality1 & workman%ip4 ,^! are matt]s ) :i* p]sons engag$ 9 ! trade are well acqua9t$1 & ,i ne$ n fur!r ref] to !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,"h is ! me?od ( mak+ a twi/4 ,take two ounces ( tw5ty-in* /raight hair1 & divide into ?ree p>ts1 b "o "p is to be ?ick] ?an ei!r ( ! o!r two1 s z to all[ = a top r[1 9 addition1 be+ made f x4 ,hav+ done ?is1 tie ea* lot1 tempor>ily1 s z to keep x intact4 ,fix ! weav+ frame1 & ?ree silks1 z on previ\s occasions4 ,put ! ?icke/ portion into ! bru%es1 & weave a v f9e top r[ ( 8once-90 weft1 ab\t ?ree & a-half in*es 9 l5g?4 ,?is is n to be cut d[n1 b g on weav+ ! rema9+ portion ( ! tress ( hair2 ! only diff]5ce be+ t x is to be co>s]4 ,! weav+ %\ld be graduat$1 z x 71 s z to avoid an abrupt ?ickness ( ! weft1 = x w\ld1 d\btless1 spoil ! appe>ance ( ! "w4 ,plait up 9 ?ree1 & twi/ ! weft r\nd ! weav+ peg4 ,leave a space ( ab\t f\r or five in*es1 & !n resume4 ,comm5ce ) a v f9e weft1 & weave x 9 ! usual mann]1 tak+ c>e to secure x firmly to ! silks by a little extra-close weav+4 ,!re is a special way ( do+ ?is :i* an exp]t c easily %[1 b x is difficult "h to describe4 ,ano!r way ( proce$+ is to press ! fir/ portion ) w>m irons1 cut d[n1 & !n beg9 aga91 ( c\rse )\t mak+ ano!r top r[4 ,weave ! ?ird & rema9+ tress 9 ! same way1 & ! "w !n is ready = sew+ up4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,to sew up1 take a r %ort b pla9 weav+ peg1 & bore a hole 9 x ab\t five or six in*es f ! top4 ,?r\gh ?is hole pass a /\t wire1 b5d x d[n to keep x 9 its place1 & =m a hook at ! bottom2 turn ! o!r "p ( ! wire 9 a correspond+ direction1 b leav+ a piece /&+ out to =m a h&le4 ,if ?is is design$ prop]ly1 x c easily be turn$ r\nd & r\nd )\t becom+ deta*$ f its position4 ,take a piece ( black tape1 ,russian cord1 or "s o!r suitable mat]ial1 ab\t ! l5g? ( ! weft2 tie a knot at top & fix x to ! wire hook4 ,comm5ce ab\t an in* f ! bottom1 by sew+ ! ?ick end ( ! weft to ! l[] "p1 & hav+ done s1 break (f ! silk4 ,beg91 !n1 turn+ ! h&le ( ! wire above describ$2 ?is w cause ! tape or cord to twi/1 & :5 suffici5tly twi/$1 x w be prop] to roll ! weft ^u x4 ,hav+ done s = a little di/ance1 turn ! wire aga91 s z to keep x firm2 cont9ue ?is till ! end ( ! weft is rea*$1 & !n fa/5 (f4 7,see ! accompany+ illu/ration ( "o ( ! /ems1 ,fig #f47 ,x w be necess>y to obs]ve t ea* r[ ( weft %\ld lie close to & above ! prec$+ r[1 & :5 !re is mu* weft to be roll$ or twi/$ up x ought to be /it*$ 9 sev]al places4 ,n[1 hav+ completely made two ( ! /ems1 make ! ?ird "o1 i4e41 ! "o ) ! top r[ atta*$4 ,sew ?is up z be=e in/ruct$ until y come to ! top r[1 :5 /op4 ,take ! o!r two /ems1 & place ! free ends ( ! tape1 cord1 or :atev] may be ! mat]ial us$1 ) t :i* y are n[ work+1 & /it* !m all toge!r4 ,hav+ done s1 beg9 sew+ ! top r[1 neatly1 & well1 b hav+ />t$ x1 take suffici5t ,russian cord to make a loop1 put x 9 its place1 cov] all ) ! top r[1 & f9i% (f securely4 ,ea* /em is to be p9*$ sep>ately1 & p9*$ aga9 :5 complet$4 7,fig4 #g47 ,^! twi/s are exce$+ly useful1 & if well-made1 ) hair ( good quality & l5g?1 !y c be appli$ to a numb] ( purposes 9 connection ) ! coiffure4 ,!y may be twi/$ up ) ! back hair1 made into a plait or plaits1 us$ z a solid twi/ or a light torsade = a coronet1 or back hair dress+4 ,speak+ ( a torsade1 ! foll[+ in/ructions1 tak5 f 8,lessons 9 ,hairdress+10 w d\btless prove acceptable4 ,t :i* ,i am ab\t to describe is kn[n by ! names ( ,torsade ,dondel1 ,torsade ,rep\sse1 ,torsade ,g\ffre4 ,x is made 8) a long ?9 /r& ( hair1 & is holl[ :5 complet$2 consequ5tly1 :]e lightness is requir$1 two or ?ree ( ^! may be introduc$ ) *>m+ effect4 ,proce$ to make x 9 ! foll[+ mann]3--,take a piece ( hair f tw5ty-f\r to ?irty in*es long1 & sep>ate a ?9 /r&1 :i* aft]w>ds s]ves z a #8draw4' ,?is put on "o side till want$4 ,divide ! hair into two equal p>ts1 & friz well ^u ! inn] side1 at ! same "t spread+ out ! hair s z to make x wide & flat4 ,x may !n be comp>$ 7= fur!r illu/rat+ my in/ructions7 to a long & some:at wide /rip ( c>dbo>d4 ,hold ! end 9 y\r left h&1 & turn ^u ! ?umb ( ! "r h&1 :i*1 = ! purpose1 %\ld be plac$ ne> to ! top1 or roots4 ,hav+ giv5 x a b5d1 x !n =ms a #8holl[1' :i* is to be s twi/$ ^u itself1 & 9 a spiral direction to ! end4 ,!n ei!r p9 d[n tempor>ily or get ! lady to hold x4 ,proce$ 9 ! same mann] ) ! second portion4 ,hav+ done s1 take "o end 9 ea* h& & twi/ bo? toge!r1 be+ p>ticul> to pass t held by ! left h& ov] t held by ! "r4 ,take !n ! little /r& ( hair1 & pass x r\nd ! torsade 9 su* a mann] t x falls into e second space4 ,hold ! end firmly1 & pu% up ! frizz$ twi/2 fa/5 (f1 & place 9 position40 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,x w be se5 t :5 neatly done ! :ole =ms a holl[ & 8puff$ up0 twi/1 light 9 con/ruction1 full 9 appe>ance1 & v suitable = a coronet or z an embelli%m5t to ! *ignon4 ,9 ! hairdress+ bus9ess !re are innum]able *anges ( fa%ion1 :ile ! v>i\s requirem5ts ( diff]5t individuals cont9ually make dem&s ^u ! practical k ( ^? :o c>ry on ! trade4 ,"s articles t ,i h spok5 (1 & o!rs to :i* ,i %all h occasion to ref]1 are 8n 9 fa%ion10 b !re is an occasional dem& = some?+ or ano!r t w\ld puzzle _m :o pr(ess to "k h[ to make almo/ ev]y?+4 ,x is ! duty ( a hairdress] to assi/ nature 9 matt]s app]ta9+ to ! *evelure1 = ?9 locks h to be supplem5t$ by artificial aid1 & bald heads n unfrequ5tly require to be cov]$4 ,x is n at all times pride & vanity t causes p to resort to ! use ( 8false hair10 z x is t]m$1 any m ?an x is pride & vanity :i* compels "s folk to use spectacles1 we> false tee?1 or h rec\rse to surgical me*anicians = _! especial aid & com=t4 ,i c\ld laugh at ! rem>ks occasionally giv5 expression to1 = 8goody-goody0 p seem incl9$ to condemn 9 o!rs t :i* !y c disp5se ) !mselves4 ,to resume4 ,a back plait ) a flat top c be made f any quantity or l5g? ( hair4 ,x may be wide or n>r[ z circum/ances require1 & al?\gh ! twi/ be=e describ$ is 9 g5]al requisition1 yet !re are occasions :5 a flat top is mo/ conv5i5t & suitable4 ,take half-an-ounce ( tw5ty-in* hair1 & two ounces ( eighte54 ,close1 or 8once 90 weft1 ?r\gh\t4 ,weave ! long hair mod]ately f9e = ! top r[1 or r[s1 & ! eighte5-in* hair %\ld be wov5 r co>se1 b uni=m f beg9n+ to end4 ,!re %\ld n be a 8break10 = all ! weft mu/ be 9 "o piece4 ,p9*1 tempor>ily plait 9 8?rees10 & cut d[n4 ,decide ^u ! wid? ! plait is to be made1 & sew up firm & regul>4 ,side ,plaits are made ) sixte5 or eighte5 in* hair1 aft] ! mann] ( closely-sewn r+let bun*es2 two or ?ree loops are atta*$ to ea* bun* ?r\gh :i* a piece ( wide galloon or ribbon is pass$4 ,?is s]ves to fa/5 !m to ! head1 & z !y are made to slide1 ! wid? ap>t c be adju/$ accord+ to ! discretion ( ! we>]4 ,i h also made side plaits on combs1 aft] ! me?od adopt$ = mak+ curls on combs1 leav+ ! ends ( ! plaits to be fix$ by ! we>]1 or by 8tack+0 !m to ! combs aft] be+ plait$4 ,! ends ( ^! side plaits %\ld be securely fa/5$ by means ( black ?read1 & ! :ole neatly cov]$ ) a piece ( ribbon4 ,conc]n+ ! plait+ ( hair1 ! read] is ref]r$ to 8,lessons 9 ,hairdress+10 :]e9 copi\s in/ructions are giv54 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,! 8,*ignon ,univ]sel10 z x is call$1 is a clev] arrangem5t = mak+ good a defici5cy 9 ! back hair2 x is mo/ conv5i5t1 & unmi/akably 8defies detection40 ,to be made ) smoo? hair on ! top1 ) ! und]nea? hair ei!r crol1 or pla94 ,if fulness be desir$ ! =m] plan is mo/ exp$i5t1 or else long frizzettes %\ld be introduc$4 ,b mu* dep5ds ^u ! l5g? & ?ickness ( ! hair & ! way x is go+ to be arrang$4 ,to manufacture ! ,*ignon ,univ]sel proce$ z foll[s3--,take half an ounce ( tw5ty-two in* hair1 & hav+ previ\sly select$ a comb1 weave suffici5t 8fly0 weft to make a top r[1 p9*1 securely fa/5 (f1 & cut d[n4 ,!n take two ounces ( tw5ty-in* hair1 :i* is to be wov5 r co>se1 & ,i ne$ sc>cely add1 close1 or 8once 90 weft2 ! object be+ to get z mu* hair z possible into ! smalle/ compass4 ,sew up z ?\gh y 7 go+ to make an ord9>y back plait accord+ to ! in/ructions previ\sly giv54 ,p9*1 & make x z flat z y c4 ,cov] ! top ( ! comb ) a piece ( /rong net1 su* z is us$ 9 wig-mak+1 & d all ! sew+ on ! front "p ( x1 s t :5 f9i%$ x %all pres5t a neat appe>ance1 z %[n 9 ! illu/ration4#e ,securely /it* ! piece made ) ! tw5ty-in* hair to ! net1 at ! top "p ( ! comb1 & 9 su* a way t x lies flat4 ,!n take ! piece ( 8fly0 weft1 & 7putt+ ! roots und]nea?7 sew x on ! top1 s z to cov] all4 ,press1 & comb out ! hair4 ,:5 complet$1 ! "w ought to look z compact & pretty z x does 9 ! wood-cut annex$4 ,ability comes ) practice1 & z ,i am writ+ = ! b5efit ( ^? :o desire to improve1 ,i w\ld j h9t t !y ne$ n be afraid ( do+ _! "w too well4 ,at ! outset inf]ior productions might reasonably be expect$1 b1 z ! appr5tice or improv] advances1 bett] "w %\ld be =?com+4 ,!re is an old say+ t 8practice makes p]fect10 & t is exemplifi$ 9 numb]less in/ances e day4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,"s few ye>s ago sev]al ( ! lead+ hairdress]s met toge!r1 by arrangem5t1 & discuss$ ! necessity :i* !n exi/$ = ! introduction ( a new /yle ( coiffure4 ,! once-fa%ionable *ignon1 ) its accompany+ plaits & twi/s _h disappe>$1 & ! coiffeur's art began to decl9e 9 consequ5ce4 ,besides1 ladies compla9$ ( ! meagre fa%ion :i* succe$$ ! m elaborate /yle ( hairdress+1 & a *ange1 = m reasons ?an "o1 0 consid]$ necess>y4 ,i ne$ n pause "h to discuss ! importance ( ! coiffure1 or ! pleas+ effect :i* is produc$ :5 ! hair is arrang$ 9 h>mony ) ! features4 ,all ladies' coiffeurs are well aw>e ( x1 & at ! meet+ 9 "q x 0 decid$ to introduce some?+ new & ( almo/ univ]sal application 9 ref]5ce to ladies' hairdress+4 ,b ! "t 0 n suffici5tly ripe = a *ange--! little knot & ! fr+$ br[ _h tak5 too great a hold ( ! popul> fancy4 ,h[ev] ! innovation 0 ( a ta/eful & s]viceable "*1 & 9 exp]t h&s c\ld be made to assume a numb] ( *>m+ designs4 ,x 0 call$ 8,! ,zephyr ,coiffure10 & is made z foll[s3--,take "s tap]$ curl$ hair f sixte5 to tw5ty in*es 9 l5g?1 & ab\t an ounce & a qu>t] 9 weight4 ,weak5 ! curl to )9 six in*es ( ! po9ts1 & sew up on ?ree sep>ate pieces ( galloon or net1 ab\t a qu>t] ( an in* wide1 keep+ x flat & s(t4 ,! /ems may be f\r or five in*es 9 l5g?1 or long]1 accord+ to circum/ances1 :ile ano!r description is made ( a less] quantity ( hair1 %ort] 9 proportion1 & sewn up 9 ! usual way ( mak+ twi/s or 8tails40 7,see accompany+ illu/rations47 ,! fir/ pieces describ$ c be arrang$ 9 puffs1 undulations1 r\leaux1 knots1 or twi/s1 b ^? made ^u ! la/-nam$ pr9ciple are m suit$ = plaits1 b leav+ ! ends curl$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,! exp]i5c$ coiffeur w see at a glance :at c be done :5 ^! additions are introduc$4 ,) ! lady's own *evelure1 & ! use ( two or m ( ^! pieces ( hair1 a dress+ c be devis$ at once light & elegant1 high on ! head z ) a long coronet1 by ins]t+ ! /ems "o into ! o!r & conceal+ ! loops1 or l[ on ! neck ) tight or fluffy curls4 ,aga91 ! /ems c be incorporat$ ) ! back hair1 & ! curl$ ends arrang$ ov] & ^u ! =ehead4 ,%\ld ! head ( hair be ( a poor description1 ?r\gh its be+ %ort & ?91 !n ?ree1 or at mo/ f\r1 ( ^! tresses w probably be requir$4 ,! foll[+ headdress has be5 execut$ to give ! read] "s idea ( ! adaptability ( ^! pretty additions to almo/ any /yle ( hairdress+1 :ile ! advantages to be d]iv$ f ! curl$ ends may readily be disc]n$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,9 pres5t+ ?is description ( ! ,zephyr ,coiffure1 ,i w\ld rem>k t n "o1 b at lea/ tw5ty diff]5t /yles c be execut$ ) ! help ( ^! necess>y adjuncts1 &1 fur!r1 ! *ignon c be made l>ge or small accord+ to ! ta/e or requirem5ts ( ! we>]1 z c easily be imag9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,:ile speak+ ( tap]-curl$ hair1 ,i am rem9d$ ( a semi-wav$ curl$ *ignon :i* is light 9 con/ruction & produces a v pretty effect4 ,( c\rse x c be made ei!r l>ge or small1 ?ick or ?91 ) long] or %ort] hair1 & a practis$ h& w see at a glance its g5]al utility4 ,?is ca*e-peigne c be worn ) a comb1 or embelli%$ ) fl[]s1 &1 moreov]1 x pres5ts a mo/ natural appe>ance4 7,see ,fig4 #ad47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,to make ! *ignon1 take ab\t #c ozs4 ( tap] r+let hair1 a "p ( :i* is to be twelve in*es1 ano!r "p f\rte51 & s on up to ! longe/1 :i* %\ld be ab\t tw5ty in*es4 ,in/ead ( weav+ ^u ?ree silks 9 ! usual mann]1 f9e wire is to be sub/itut$ = ! c5tre "o4 ,let ! weft be v good1 & sew up into a diamond-%ap$ f\ndation4 7,ref]5ce to ,*apt] ,v4 w %[ :at is meant47 ,) ?is quantity ( hair ! m\nt %\ld be1 :5 complet$1 ab\t f\r in*es wide & sev5 in*es long4 ,! weft requir$ is ab\t ?ree y>ds1 & mu/ be s arrang$ t ! %ort] hair is kept at ! top1 :ile ! longe/ comes to ! bottom4 ,to make ! wav+s1 undo ! curl a little "h & !re & friz und]nea?1 or x c be weak5$ by means ( a w>m iron4 ,ano!r ca*e-peigne ,i h made on a simil> pr9ciple1 b v mu* light]1 &1 ) prop] dress+1 x appe>s to be ne>ly z full4 ,take oz4 or #a oz4 ( tap] r+let hair1 twelve1 sixte5 & tw5ty in*es long4 ,weave & sew up z be=e direct$4 ,9 dress+1 ea* curl %\ld be v c>efully frizz$ 9 ! inside1 & dispos$ )\t ! aid ( ! curl-/ick1 if possible4 ,by adopt+ ?is me?od1 ! curls w be v ?9 & light1 & obta91 ?r\gh frizz+1 all ! fulness requir$4 ,a novel *ignon 0 design$1 "s "t ago1 by ,mr4 ,joseph ,kubelka 7,vi5na71 :i* consi/s ( ! +5i\s comb9ation ( two ord9>y 8tails0 or 8twi/s10 & is wor?y ( reproduction "h4 ,its =mation w be se5 at a glance1#f & ! me?od ( arrangem5t is fir/ made ^u ! h& 7! tops be+ held by "s p]son1 or else tempor>ily fix$ to a table71 & a 8bodk90 mu/ be employ$ 9 work+ ! design4 ,?is bodk9 c be made ( tortoise-%ell1 ivory1 or bone1 b x mu/ h an op5+ suffici5tly l>ge to encircle ! free ends ( ! hair4 7,! illu/ration giv5 bel[ indicates v cle>ly h[ ! plait is to be made47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,by means ( ?is contrivance ! hair is drawn ?r\gh spaces easily made by ! f+]s1 &1 z c readily be disc]n$1 ! plait$ *ignon well holds itself toge!r4 ,! f9al disposition ( ! ends mu/ be complet$ ^u ! head1 :5 !y 7z well z ! natural hair7 %\ld be made into r\leaux1 etc41 z may be f\nd mo/ conv5i5t & ta/eful4 ,:]e lightness has to be consid]$1 p]haps two well-cov]$ ins]t$ /ems might take ! place ( a quantity ( hair--a h9t :i* is n likely to be ov]look$ by clev] hairdress]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,probably1 at ?is juncture1 "s rem>ks on *ignons 9 g5]al w n be ?\ght out ( place4 ,*ignons may be consid]$ z 8old z ! hills10 = ! ^w simply means z ,i int]pret x--a back hair dress+ )\t ref]5ce to any p>ticul> %ape4 ,7 ,i to designate ! m]e 8knot0 at ! back ( ! head a *ignon1 p]haps my mean+ w\ld n be cle>ly und]/ood1 b x is 9 reality z mu* a *ignon z ! mo/ elaborate "o c\ld be4 ,9 ! ord9>y acceptation ( ! ^w1 h[ev]1 a fanciful /yle ( dress+ ! back hair is meant1 & 8,bo>d-"w0 w\ld n be complete )\t special allusion be+ made to *ignons1 see+ t _! manufacture a few ye>s ago gave employm5t to ?\s&s ( p ( bo? sexes4 ,m4 ,alphonse ,b\*>d1 writ+ 9 ,,! ,,hairdress]',s ,,*ronicle on ! subject ( 8,false ,hair10 says t 8! compil]s ( ! ,g5]al ,catalogue ( ! ,univ]sal ,exhibition1 #ahfg1 h giv5 u figures1 :i* x w\ld be v difficult to *eck2 b !y1 no d\bt1 us$ ! same s\rces :i* ,i h _h rec\rse to1 & to prove ! exactness & au?ority ( ?is essay1 ,i %all quote a few data4 8,?is (ficial docum5t reports z foll[s3--,! manufacture ( hair is to-day ( v great importance4 ,p>is is ! place :]e ! hair is well prep>$1 & :]e ! headdresses arrive at ! highe/ degree ( p]fection4 ,! price ( raw hair1 says ?is catalogue1 is ab\t #ej francs on an av]age p] kilo4 ,x 0 #fe francs 9 #ahfe2 & x is said to h be5 sold ev5 at #ajj francs4 ,! price ( prep>$ hair is #adj francs ! kilo4 ,! price ( po/i*es is ab\t #dj francs apiece2 ! prices ( ! fa%ionable coiffures1 call$ *ignons1 range f #ae francs to #bjj francs1 & ev5 z f> z #ejj francs apiece4 ,9 ,france ab\t #gj1jjj kilos4 ( cut hair are sold4 ,( ?is quantity #dj1jjj kilos4 are ,fr5*1 & #bj1jjj kilos4 are import$ f ,italy1 ,belgium1 ,g]many & o!r c\ntries4 #h1jjj kilos4 are collect$ 9 ! work%ops & o!r places2 ?is is call$ #8wa/e4' ,am]ica1 ,engl& & ,prussia buy #cj1jjj kilos4 ( hair ( u2 #be1jjj kilos4 are us$ 9 ,france 9 ! manufacture ( po/i*es2 & ab\t #ac1jjj kilos4 are export$ to diff]5t c\ntries4 ,m>seilles is next to ,p>is 9 importance = ! hair trade4 ,m4 ,joseph ,ma?ieu has giv5 u "s curi\s details on ! hair trade 9 ,m>seilles4 ,he tells u1 t ! /atutes ( ! wig-mak]s ( ,m>seilles date f #afif4 ,_! numb] 0 = a long "t limit$ to tw5ty4 ,9 #agfj1 ! ma/]-wigmak]s ( ,m>seilles1 see+ t a l>ge numb] ( ladies' hairdress]s e/abli%$ !mselves 9 t city1 comm5c$ an action aga9/ !m4 ,b a decree ( ! #bj? ,june1 #agfa1 reject$ ^! pret5sions1 & gave full & entire fre$om to ! ladies' hairdress]s to ex]cise _! call+4 8,9 #aghi1 ! numb] ( hairdress]s & ladies' hairdress]s ( ,m>seilles 0 consid]able4 ,x is well kn[n h[ complicat$ ! headdresses ( t p]iod 71 & accord+ to ! records ( t "t1 ,m>seilles 0 "o ( ! fir/ cities 9 ,france = elegance & good ta/e4 8,aft] ! ,revolution ! numb] ( hairdress]s increas$ gradually1 b x is m especially dur+ ! la/ t5 ye>s t ?is increase has be5 mo/ly notic$1 & to-day we h at ,m>seilles #cig coiffeurs4 8,f\r h\ses1 employ+ ab\t =ty workm51 hold ! monopoly ( ! hair trade4 ,! trade has increas$ f\rfold dur+ ! la/ ?irty ye>s4 ,! h\ses 9 ! trade receive toge!r annually #f1jjj kilos4 ( hair1 f ! ,tyrol1 ,bohemia1 ,dalmatia & ,italy4 ,hav+ be5 work$1 #c1jjj kilos4 ( ?is quantity is s5t to ! prov9ces & to =eign c\ntries1 & #c1jjj kilos4 rema9 = t[n consumption4 8,x is e/imat$ t ( ^!1 #ejj kilos4 are us$ = m5's wigs1 & #b1ejj kilos4 = po/i*es = wom54 ,! po/i*es1 *ignons1 ca*e-folies & false plaits are employ$ to su* an ext5t1 t !re are at ,m>seilles actually #ge1jjj wom51 or ! :ole gr[n-up female population1 :o we> false hair4 ,?is obs]vation applies equally to ,p>is & to "s l>ge t[ns abroad4 ,all coiffeurs at ,m>seilles trade 9 *ignons m or less1 & _! annual production ( ?is article am\nts to #ee1jjj4 ,( ^!1 #cj1jjj are s5t to ! prov9ces1 & #be1jjj are sold 9 ! city & its suburbs4 ,illu/ration3 #a4 ,coil$ ,*ignon1 measur+ ?irty-six in*es1 or m1 :5 undone4 #b4 ,pair ( side ,frizzetts4 #c4 ,sev5 ,/r& ,d\ble ,plait4 #d4 ,m>gu]ite ,plait3 ,?is c be plait$ 9 #d1 #e1 #f1 or #g /r&s1 z may be decid$ ^u4 #e4 ,b]?a ,frizzett 7set ( ?ree71 = ,plait$ ,*ignon3 ,! /ems are made ) /raight hair ins]t$1 ( m$ium ?ickness1 & sev5te5 in*es 9 l5g?4 8,correspond+ ) ! advance ( education 9 ,france1 ! difficulty to f9d "y c\ntrywom5 :o are ready to "p ) _! *evelure increases4 ,n[adays x requires a sum ( money to induce a girl to und]go ! ordeal ( ! cutt]'s scissors2 consequ5tly we h be5 oblig$ to g else:]e 9 se>* ( ?is article1 pr9cipally to ,g]many1 ,au/ria1 ,italy1 & m p>ticul>ly to ,sicily1 ! ,neapolitan prov9ces1 & ! =m] ,papal /ates4 ,! l>ge religi\s communities ( wom5 furni% also great quantities ( hair4 ,9 c]ta9 ,ca?olic c\ntries ! hair ( ! novice :o ent]s a religi\s ord] is sold = ! b5efit ( ! conv5t :]e ! v[ is tak51 & ^? beautiful tresses1 sacrific$ at ! foot ( ! alt> by virg9s :o r5\nce ! _w1 return to x aga9 o!r heads to adorn4 ,! ,italian hair is import$ into ,france vi ,m>seilles1 & ! figure ( ?is importation rea*$ 9 #ahfe #ag1cfg kilos4 99 99 99 99 99 8,9 #ahcj1 ! value ( raw & manufactur$ hair export$ f ,france am\nt$ to #ajd1dhh francs2 9 #ahfe x _h increas$ to #a1bjf1fje francs4 ,numb]s ( p at ,p>is1 at ,m>seilles1 & 9 o!r l>ge t[ns1 h realis$ =tunes 9 ! hair trade4 ,let u m5tion "o h\se 9 ! ,palais ,royal qu>t] :i*1 9 #ahfh1 did bus9ess to ! am\nt ( #a1eeb1jjj francs4 ,we may safely say t ! ,fr5* hairdress]s sell annually #fh1jjj kilos4 ( hair1 :i*1 made into plaits1 curls1 crape1 etc41 repres5ts a sum ( #hj1jjj1jjj francs4 ,let u fur!r m5tion t ano!r h\se sold1 )9 sixte5 mon?s1 9 #ahga & #ahgb1 #af1jjj *ignons1 at prices v>y+ f #ab to #gj francs ea*1 b ( c\rse !re are mu* m exp5sive ones sold1 *ignons ( a natural r$ or gold5 t9t$ hair1 :i* is pr9cipally import$ f ,scotl&1 be+ ! mo/ exp5sive40#g ,f ! =ego+1 ! read] c le>n :at ! trade 0 a few ye>s ago2 b :at x is n[1 8 e-day exp]i5ce c answ]4 ,und\bt$ly ! manufacture ( *ignons 0 a ?riv+ trade s long z x la/$1 & we h x on record t ( a c]ta9 dy$ mat]ial t]m$ 8hair0 7:i* x greatly resembl$7 8hundr$s ( ?\s&s ( tons0 7 us$ 9 ! mak+ ( frizzettes1 pads1 etc4#h ,x w\ld be useless n[ to ent] ^u ! me?od ( con/ruct+ *ignons1 = _! patt]ns are almo/ endless2 b ) ins]t$ /ems1 or pads1 & suitable hair1 an +5i\s hairdress] ought to be able1 aft] :at ,i h already said1 to make sev]al ( neat & pretty designs4 ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,scalpettes & ,fr+es2 g5]al rem>ks !reon--,curl$ & ,wav$ ,fr+es--8,wat] ,waves0--,m\nt+ & ,mak+ ,scalpettes4 ,baldness is n by any means conf9$ to ! male sex1 = females1 ?r\gh illness1 acc\*em5ts1 neuralgic pa9s 9 ! head1 con/itutional weakness1 frequ5t head-a*es1 ty+ ! hair improp]ly1 ov]mu* crimp+1 & o!r causes--frequ5tly exp]i5ce a loss ( hair4 ,true1 ?is c easily be conceal$ by means ( headdresses1 b[s1 ribbons1 fl[]s1 lace1 & s =?1 b "y & middle-ag$ ladies d n f9d x conv5i5t to h rec\rse to su* artifices at all times4 ,=m]ly1 b&eaux & 8fronts0 7 employ$ to conceal ?is defective condition ( ! hair1 & !y are /ill 9 reque/ by eld]ly p & ^? ^: means are limit$4 ,b n[1 ?anks to ! +5uity ( ladies' hairdress]s1 ! 8scalpette0 has be5 inv5t$1 & x may truly be reg>d$ z a v]itable "w ( art4 ,:at is a scalpette8 ,z ?is is comp>atively a new ^w1 x w be advisable to dwell = a mom5t ^u its mean+4 ,i !re=e consid] x to signify an artificial cov]+ = conceal+ a defici5cy ( hair1 or to cov] a bald place ^u ! female head--b n a wig4 ,j ! same z a 8scalp0 is an artificial cov]+ = ! bald head ( a man--b x is n a wig4 ,assum+1 !n1 t my def9ition is correct1 ^? ( my read]s :o h mu* to d ) bo>d-"w w readily p]ceive ! v>iable nature ( ! inv5tion4 ,a scalpette c be made to cov] a small space1 or ! entire top ( ! head2 x c be =m$ ) or )\t a 8fr+e20 ) or )\t a p>t+ or p>t+s4 ,x c be manufactur$ ) long /raight hair1 or %ort curly hair1 or bo?4 ,x c be 8knott$0 ^u gauze or a 8human hair f\ndation10 & made1 figuratively speak+1 8z light z a fea!r10 or x c be wov51 & m\nt$ ) net & galloon1 :i* is1 d\btless1 m durable & less exp5sive4 ,9 %ort1 a scalpette c be adapt$ to any possible requirem5t1 & t !re is a dem& = su* manufactures at good prices 9 c]ta9 localities1 bo? 9 t[n & c\ntry1 w n1 probably1 be contradict$4 ,speak+ ( sundry +5i\s contrivances = conceal+ bald pat*es1 & help+ ?9 p>t+s to an improv$ appe>ance1 ! ,que5 newspap] obs]ves t ! modes ( cov]+ ?9 p>t+s are v>i\s4 8,fir/1 if ! head is v bald at ! top1 a scalpette ( /raight hair is add$2 ?is comes to a po9t 9 front1 s t any hairs t may rema9 on ! =ehead are se52 ! p>t+s ( ?is scalpette are made ( hair1 & are q invisible2 secondly a scalpette ( small curls is laid ov] ! p>t+2 x re/s q flat on ! head1 & is dressy & becom+2 & ?irdly1 a scalpette ( %ort /raight hair1 :i* =ms a fr+e 9 front1 & m+les ) ! we>]'s own hair at ! sides4 ,! mode ( conceal+ a ?9ness ( ! hair at ! sides is to ins]t a piece ( long hair1 m\nt$ on ! mo/ invisible ( hair p>t+s4 ,?is ?9ness at ! sides is g5]ally accompani$ by ! same at ! top ( ! head2 ! addition is !n made to conceal all toge!r4 ,! we>]'s own hair is p>t$ at ! side1 ! addition add$ & kept 9 its place by a few hairs br\ght ov]1 & !n ! :ole dress$ toge!r1 ! add$ piece be+ q imp]ceptible4 ,ano!r mode is ! scalpette :i* curls at ! top1 & has /raight hair com+ f x on ei!r side4 ,:5 an entire cov]+ is necess>y1 !re is ! invisible topee4 ,^! cov] ! p>t+ ) %ort hair1 & are on ! pr9ciple ( a front )\t ei!r spr+s or /r+s40 ,x w appe>1 z my "w advances1 h[ scalpettes c be manufactur$1 b a k ( m\nt+ & knott+ mu/ fir/ be acquir$1 & ! o!r w foll[ 9 due c\rse4 ,fr+es are ( a less difficult "*1 at lea/ ! majority ( !m1 b "s ( ! m elaborate ones mu/1 = ! reasons giv5 above1 /& ov] = ! pres5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,"h is "o#i1 h[ev]1 ( simple con/ruction1 :i* is made on a wire f\ndation4 ,take half an ounce ( six-in* hair 9 tight ,sevigny curls4 ,adju/ ! weav+-frame1 ) a wire 7in/ead ( silk7 9 ! c5tre1 z has be5 be=e describ$4 ,make ab\t fifte5 in*es ( close or 8once-90 weft4 ,comb out ! hair c>efully1 curl up1 & securely f9i% (f ! weft4 ,cut d[n4 ,fold ! weft 9 ?ree equal portions1 & neatly1 yet firmly1 sew ! ends toge!r4 ,take a piece ( wat*-spr+1 "o-&-a-half or two in*es long1 & adapt x to fit ! b5d ( ! head4 ,r\nd (f ! ends1 :i* is to be done ) a small1 f9e file1 or by rubb+ ! corn]s on a /one4 ,protect ! ends ) a piece ( wax$ kid1 ?9 lea!r1 or p>*m5t1 & !n cov] ! spr+ ) galloon4 ,! galloon %\ld be z n>r[ z possible1 ) ! ends c>efully turn$ 9 & /it*$2 x mu/ also be sewn 8ov] & ov]0 at ! sides4 ,g5tly hamm] to make x z flat z possible2 & ,i ne$ sc>cely obs]ve t ! /it*es 9 ?is1 & all o!r "w %\ld be small & almo/ invisible4 ,hav+ ?us prep>$ ! spr+1 put x 9 position1 namely1 9 ! c5tre ( ! m\nt1 ! l[] end be+ inside ! weft1 to :i* x is to be sewn4 ,sew ! top r[ to ! top ( ! spr+1 :ile ! c5tre r[ ( weft is1 ( c\rse1 to be atta*$ to ! middle ( ! spr+4 ,tack ! 8fr+e0 on to a block1 & dress 9 a numb] ( small curls1 z %[n 9 ! illu/ration4 ,ano!r way is to take ?ree-qu>t]s ( an ounce ( %ort1 tight curl$ hair1 & make tw5ty in*es ( weft or m4 ,sew up into f\r r[s & put two spr+s1 ea* "o to be full an in* f ! ends4 ,9 ?is case1 ! spr+s mu/ n be q s long z ! previ\s "o4 ,dress out z be=e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,wav$ ,fr+es#aj are made ( curl$ hair1 p]haps twelve or f\rte5 in*es 9 l5g?1 or m1 z occasion may require4 ,! hair is closely wov5 ^u silks1 & sewn up 9 diamond fa%ion2 ! wid? & dep? ( ! same be+ left to ! mak]'s judgm5t4 ,?is scalpette is v light & lies flat ^u ! front ( ! head & =ehead4 ,! curl is 8brok50 by means ( damp+ & a w>m iron1 & sometimes by a 8t\*10 b only exp]ts c d x prop]ly4 ,( c\rse1 fr+es c be made ( all sizes & %apes2 t matt] is g5]ally regulat$ by ! p>ties conc]n$1 & ! price :i* is to be paid = ! article4 ,"s cov] ! :ole front--9 t case !y w\ld be n9e or t5 in*es long1 or ev5 long]1 :ile o!rs are some:at n>r[1 ext5d+ f front to back2 o!rs aga9 h long hair at ! sides 7only a small portion x is true72 b 8circum/ances alt] cases10 & ! requirem5ts ( cu/om]s h to be consid]$4 ,b ! mo/ elegant1 vap\ry1 & arti/ic 8fr+es0 are1 p> excell5ce1 ^? :i* come "u ! designation ( 8wat] waves10 s-call$1 ,i presume1 because wat] plays an important "p 9 _! manufacture4 ,m4 ,eug5e ,mn>d deliv]$ a v in/ructive lecture on ?is subject at ! ,acadmie ,int]nationale de ,coiffure1 9 #ahhd1 & p]haps ,i _c d bett] ?an quote a portion ( x4 ,he said1 8,any quality ( hair1 curl$ or /raight1 f9e or co>se1 c be made into wat] waves1 ) m or less tr\ble2 b x is c]ta9 t f9e natural curly hair is ! be/ = t purpose4 ,9 default ( ?is hair1 :i* is n[ v sc>ce1 ,i %\ld sugge/ :at we call1 9 ,fr5*1 #8,croquignoles4' ,?is w be f\nd a capital sub/itute4 ,! next aft] ?is1 is :at is t]m$ 9 ?is c\ntry1 #8tight curl1' & s on1 b tak+ co>se & /raight hair = ! la/1 z !y nev] w keep wav$4 ,9 e in/ance ! hair to be us$ = wat] waves1 mu/ be well tap]$1 & z mu* z possible ( a pliable nature4 ,z to blocks1 ^? ( porcela9 or c>dbo>d1 cov]$ ) prep>$ calf's sk9 or vellum1 w be f\nd ! mo/ h&y & useful = ! purpose4 ,"s1 ,i am aw>e1 make use ( pla9 %eet-iron or glass1 & yet1 aft] hav+ sp5t mu* "t ov] x1 !y are disappo9t$ at n gett+ a bett] result4 ,:y8 ,because x /&s to reason t wat] waves made 9 t way1 :5 plac$ on ! head1 w n fit any bett] ?an ! %eet-glass itself1 ! waves be+ b\nd to take ! exact %ape ( t ^u :i* !y are made4 ,!re=e1 ?is me?od w nev] d1 & ! idea mu/ be reject$4 ,o!rs make use ( wood5 blocks2 c]ta9ly1 :5 ^! are new !y are q z good z porcela91 b aft] !y h be5 put into ! ov5 two or ?ree times--= wat] waves require to be ?or\ghly well dri$--^! blocks become r\gh & crack$1 & consequ5tly1 q useless = t k9d ( "w4 ,"s might1 p]haps1 object to h ! wat] waves dri$ 9 ! ov51 & w\ld pref] ! front ( ! fire only2 if s1 my answ] w\ld be ?is3 ,! wood block m]ely put to ! front ( ! fire might be> ! heat once or twice m be=e be+ spoilt1 b ! wat] waves dri$ 9 l mann]1 w\ld assur$ly nev] la/ half ! "t !y w\ld if dri$ 9 ! ov54 ,exp]i5ce %[s t ! ov5 is ! only recipi5t 9 :i* damp hair c be ?or\ghly well dri$1 i4e41 t ! wat] waves w la/ ) a natural wav+ appe>ance4 8,tak+ = grant$ t porcela9 & c>dbo>d blocks nev] crack nor become r\gh by a temp]ate heat1 ,i w n[ demon/rate ! second great advantage ( ^! two blocks4 8,fir/ly1 ,i %all deal ) ! porcela9 block1 :i* w be f\nd v suitable = mak+ smoo? & p]fect wat] waves1 any k9d ( m\nt$ po/i*e1 su* z fr+es1 p>t+s1 fronts1 scalpettes1 etc4 ,"h1 ,i d>e say1 an app>5t difficulty w be f\nd1 z nei!r p9s nor po9ts c be driv5 into porcela94 ,!re=e1 9 ord] to avoid x1 ,i %\ld advise t ! block be p]=at$ 9 f\r or six diff]5t p>ts1 accord+ to ! %ape ( ! m\nt$ po/i*e to be dress$1 & !n to fill ! holes ) a piece ( be/ quality cork1 into :i* to drive p9s & to fix !re) any piece ( m\nt$ po/i*e4 ,by s do+ ! app>5t difficulty w be v easily & simply ov]come4 ,= in/ance1 place fir/ on ! block ! scalpette1 front1 p>t+1 or fr+e1 9 ! same way z x is to be plac$ on ! lady's head by :om x is to be worn1 & fix x ) f\r or six p9s2 next1 wet ! hair "r ?r\gh1 & !n :5 ?or\ghly saturat$ ) wat] or spirits ( w9e1 bru% or comb x d[n q flat on ! block1 & proce$ ?us3 ,ma9ta9 ! m\nt+ or ! la/ wave made1 ) ! m$ium f+]1 lift up g5tly ! hair ) ! ?umb ( ! same h&1 & ) ! comb 9 ! o!r h&1 wet aga9 to ! utmo/ & make ! wave1 betwe5 ! two said f+]s1 accord+ to y\r wi% ( ! way requir$4 ,:5 two or m waves are made1 keep ! annul> f+] on ! p5ultimate made wave & support ! m\nt+ ) ! little f+]1 till y get to ! end4 ,!n wet ) mod]ation 9 uphold+ ! waves1 & lift !m up aga94 ,if necess>y1 cov] ! dress$ piece ( po/i*e ) f9e musl9 or net1 s z to see :e!r ! waves are 9 or out ( ord]2 put x into ! ov51 :i* mu/ be z hot z ! hair c be> )\t be+ injur$2 take x (f :5 ?or\ghly dri$2 let x get q cold2 pass ! comb ?r\gh ! waves1 flatt5 !m ) ! h&1 & !n y w get waves z smoo? & z natural z c be imag9$4 ,i d>e say ^! wat] waves w\ld cause _m an exp]i5c$ eye to be p]plex$ 9 ! ev5t ( be+ call$ ^u to make a di/9ction betwe5 !m & natural ones4 ,nev] divide ! hair :5 ! divid$ p>ts are int5d$ to make b "o wave2 at lea/1 d n let x dry 9 t /ate1 or else ! hair w nev] jo9 toge!r1 & ! waves--if n entirely disfigur$--w be1 at lea/1 awry or crook$4 ,on ! contr>y1 wave ! :ole ( ! hair at once1 ev5 if x is a scalpette--,i mean if x is only "o wave all r\nd1 x is n m difficult1 & ! waves w be regul>4 ,:5 ! hair1 h[ev]1 is ov] t5 or twelve in*es long1 ! fir/ two or ?ree r[s ( waves might be made sep>ately1 b !n !y mu/ be jo9$ toge!r be=e proce$+ any f>!r4 ,ano!r ?+ to be obs]v$ 9 mak+ wat] waves is1 t !y be p]fect be=e dry+4 ,:5 ! porcela9 block becomes dirty1 wa% x ) soap or soda4 8,i %all n[ proce$ ) cov]$ c>dbo>d blocks4 ,vellum or prep>$ calf's sk91 z sugge/$1 is1 = ! subject ,i am treat+1 be/ adapt$ to cov] c>dbo>d blocks )4 ,^! blocks w be f\nd useful = almo/ any k9d ( po/i*e to be dress$ 9 fantaisie wat] waves1 m especially = light pieces1 su* z curls on p9s1 m>teaux = cr[n *ignons1 flat twi/s1 false nuques releves1 trans=mations1 loose or unm\nt$ hair1 z us$ by ,m4 ,augu/e ,petit1 ( ,p>is1 = 8 well-kn[n 8,univ]sal ,po/i*e10 etc4 ,! way ( proce$+ = ?is k9d ( wat] waves is q diff]5t to ! =m]4 ,x w take m "t to get ! waves made1 z x necessitates two di/9ct prep>ations4 ,on ! fir/ "o--al?\gh x is v easy to make--w dep5d ! success ( ! second2 & on ?is second prep>ation1 :i* requires "s little ta/e to make prop]ly1 w dep5d ! success ( ! waves1 ^: beauty is to get !m me?odically holl[4 ,to proce$3 ,take ! m>teau or any o!r m\nt$ or unm\nt$ piece ( hair--if m\nt$1 ! m\nt+ mu/ be /raight & n exce$+ two in*es wide1 s z to get ! waves p]fect f beg9n+ to end--saturate x well1 & p9 x on ! block1 !n comb x /raight1 hold x flat betwe5 ! index & ! m$ium f+]s ( bo? h&s1 & />t1 ei!r side1 by mak+ a k9d ( zigzag 9 ! same way z y w\ld make waves ) curls1 v>y+ f "o to two in*es & a-half wide1 accord+ to ?ickness & size ( waves want$4 ,^! zigzags mu/ be v regul>ly made1 & great c>e tak5 9 ord] to always h ! hair p]fectly /raight1 or 9 o!r words1 to prev5t ! und]nea? hair com+ ov]1 & vice v]s4 ,/>t+ f ! "r side1 pull ! :ole ( ! piece ( hair ) ! two above-m5tion$ f+]s ( ! h&2 keep ! piece ( hair loose1 & close to ! block1 betwe5 ! two same f+]s ( ! left h&1 j 9 ! middle ( ! zigzag2 leave (f1 fir/1 ! m$ium f+] ( ! "r h&1 elevate x a little1 weigh g5tly on ! hair ) ! index1 take ?is f+] (f1 fix ! "p made ( ! zigzag ) a p92 proce$ 9 ! same mann] ) ! left h&1 & g on alt]nately till y get at ! end ( ! piece ( hair to be wav$4 ,curl ! extreme po9t ( ! hair if ?\ght necess>y4 ,!n put x into ! ov5 & let x well dry4 ,"h ends ! fir/ prep>ation4 8,n[ = ! second4 ,:5 ! zigzag piece ( hair is q cold1 take (f ! p9s t s]v$ to fix x on ! block1 pass ! comb ?r\gh1 friz x und]nea?1 if necess>y1 place & fix x aga9 on ! block1 b dry ?is "t1 tap slightly ov] x1 fix ano!r p9 at ea* extremity ( ! int5d$ waves1 atta* a ?9 ?read or cotton to ! fir/ p91 pass t cotton or ?read pretty tightly ov] ! zigzag--:i* w n[ soon be a wave1--wid5 ?is 9 =m+ ! holl[ by ! help ( ! f9e tee? ( a dress+ comb1 tight5 ! ?read1 /op x at ! p9 opposite ! "o f :i* ! ?read comes1 & s on till ! la/ wave is made4 ,!n damp ! dress$ piece ( po/i*e1 put x once m into ! ov52 let x ?or\ghly well dry2 & :5 q cold1 take (f p9s & filam5t1 & y w get "s spl5did wat] waves ready to we>4 ,:5 p9s driv5 into ! sk9-cov]+ ( ! block leave a k9d ( r\gh bump caus$ by ! heat1 pass ov] x ! press+ iron1 & x w become flat & smoo? aga94 ,n[1 conc]n+ ! liquid to be us$--,i am ( op9ion t w>m wat]1 previ\sly boil$ ) a v little soda 9 x1 is ! v be/ compon5t to wet ! hair ) = wat] waves2 boil+ wat] & soda1 or pota% if pref]r$1 hav+ bo? ! prop]ty ( s(t5+ ! hair2 b1 ( c\rse1 ?is is only recomm5d$ = d>k col\rs4 ,= light ones1 suppress ! soda1 & = grey or :ite hair1 let ! boil+ wat] get q cold1 & add to x a v little ( ,reckitt's blue1 s z to prev5t ! hair f turn+ ( a yell[i% t9t4 ,to dry ?is hair x w be also v prud5t to cov] x ) light blue tissue pap]4 ,spirits ( w9e is also a v good liquid to make use ( = wat] waves2 x does n s(t5 ! hair s mu* z ! above-/at$1 b on ! o!r h&1 x causes ! waves made ) x to la/ mu* long]4 ,to make use ( x1 l wat]1 a great quantity is requir$1 m especially :5 waves are to be made on a porcela9 block2 !re=e1 unless a great numb] ( waves are made ) x1 x w\ld co/ v (t5 m ?an ! piece ( po/i*e itself4 ,x is m adapt$ = hair m]*ants or coiffeurs po/i*eurs4 ,great c>e mu/ be tak5 9 us+ spirits ( w9e1 *iefly :5 po/i*e dress$ ) x is dry+ at ! front ( ! fire4 ,! slighte/ sp>k w\ld be en\gh to spoil x4 ,scalpettes & fr+es1 z ,i h be=e indicat$1 admit ( great v>iety4 ,inde$1 bo? 9 make & /yle ( dress+1 !re is ample scope = ! coiffeur to exhibit 8 skill1 & ^? scalpettes ( a fanciful & gossam]-l "* are rem>kable = ta/e & +5uity4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,to make "o z indicat$ above1 ) :i* long /raight hair is associat$1 take t51 twelve or m in*es ( galloon 7accord+ to ! size decid$ ^u71 d\ble x toge!r1 & sew firmly at ! ends1 leav+1 say1 a qu>t] ( an in* free4 ,f9d ! c5tre ( ! galloon1 tack x by means ( 8po9ts0 to ! =ehead portion ( a clean wig-block1 & affix ! ends 9 a simil> way2 y\r object be+ to make a 8m\nt0 ab\t ?ree in*es deep 9 ! c5tre1 f\r1 five1 or six in*es long1 & tap]+ (f at ! sides4 ,! galloon ends1 ( :i* ,i spoke j n[1 mu/ be at ! top1 s t :5 tak5 (f ! block only a f9e seam is noticeable4 ,hav+ att5d$ to ?is1 ! m\nt has to be 8ba/$0 & =m$4 ,! "o ,i am describ+ is ( a diamond %ape1 & ! ba/+ /it*es are to be at ! bottom1 top1 & sides4 ,drive a po9t into ! c5tre ( ! block an in* & a half bel[ :]e y purpose ! l[] "p ( ! m\nt to be4 ,use /\t cotton1 s+le1 tie a knot at ! end ( x1 & atta* to ! 8po9t02 take a firm /it* ?r\gh ! galloon & draw x g5tly d[n into position4 ,twi/ ! cotton r\nd & r\nd ! 8po9t10 f9i%+ ) a loop made ) ! f+]2 !n take "o or m simil> /it*es ^u ea* side t]m9at+ 9 a l way4 ,give ! 8po9t0 a tap or two ) ! hamm]1 b5d x d[n1 & knock ! head ( x into ! block4 ,proce$ ) ! top 9 a l fa%ion1 & !n ! ends1 or sides4 ,y h n[ made a /ep t[>ds 8m\nt+10 & t :i* ,i h describ$ is n by any means difficult ( execution4 ,x mu/ be borne 9 m9d t ,i am n address+ myself to novices1 b to "y m5 :o1 at all ev5ts1 h "s k ( ! trade1 & ,i presume !y w n exp]i5ce mu* tr\ble 9 gett+ a practical illu/ration f a fri5d %\ld !y require x4 ,to proce$2 take ! block 9 y\r lap1 & comm5ce sew+ on ! net4 ,beg9 on ! "r-h& side ( ! inside edge ( ! bottom galloon1 ! /it*es be+ mod]ately close toge!r4 ,hav+ rea*$ ! left-h& corn]1 turn ! block r\nd1 & comm5ce sew+ 9 ! same mann] to ! inside edge ( ! top piece ( galloon4 ,:ile all ?is is be+ done pull ! net tight1 keep x smoo? & avoid 8puck]+10 cut away ! sup]flu\s net1 b--& ?is is important--! edge ( ! net :i* is /it*$ to ! m\nt ought to well cov] two-?irds ( ! galloon4 ,n[ y h bo? galloon & net ^u ! block1 & ! "w ought to be /rong & secure4 ,a spr+1 rubb$ or fil$ d[n1 & cov]$ z be=e describ$1 is to be plac$ 9 ! c5tre2 b x mu/ n ov]lap ! m\nt1 ei!r at top or bottom4 ,ab\t half an ounce ( %ort1 curl$ hair 7or less1 accord+ to ! size ( ! m\nt7 & an equal quantity ( sixte5 or eighte5 in* /raight hair w1 p]haps1 be suffici5t2 b m c be add$ if desir$4 ,! hair has to be made up into r f9e front-weft or 8twice-940 ,! /raight hair weft %\ld also be f9e1 & equally divid$2 b ! curl$ hair c be left all 9 "o piece4 ,sew ! /raight hair on to ! sides fir/2 beg9 at ! po9t 7or end ( ! m\nt71 & let ! r[s ( weft be firm1 regul>1 & at equal di/ances f ea* o!r4 ,i ne$ sc>cely say t ! /raight hair has to be incorporat$ ) ! we>]'s own hair :5 x is dress$1 & !n two or ?ree hair-p9s w keep ! 8fr+e0 9 place4 ,t portion ( ! m\nt to be cov]$ ) /raight hair w dep5d ^u circum/ances1 ( :i* y mu/ be ! judge4 ,! curl$ hair has n[ to be sewn to ! m\nt4 8,fa/5 on securely10 z seam/resses w\ld say1 & sew along ! bottom ( ! galloon1 f "r to left1 tak+ ab\t "o /it* to e weft4 ,turn ! block1 & sew ano!r r[ along ! upp] "p ( ! galloon1 be+ c>eful to cov] ! free edge ( ! net1 :i* ?us becomes /it*$ a second "t by ?is op]ation4 ,! r[s ( weft are sewn 9 a l mann] until ! m\nt is cov]$4 ,:5 turn+ ! weft see t x is done neatly :]e x jo9s ! /raight hair1 s t no irregul>ity or ugly spaces are visible4 ,! weft has n[ to be press$ 7= :i* a special tool call$ a 8press+-iron0 is us$71 & ! hair prop]ly arrang$4 ,cut ! ba/+ /it*es1 pull !m out f ! m\nt1 & exam9e y\r "w4 ,if ! /it*es are v small1 ! weft ev51 ! m\nt a good %ape1 & ! "w unmi/akably firm & secure1 ,i %\ld pron\nce x to be satisfactory2 b if !re be imp]fections 9 any ( ^! respects1 !n foll[ ! be/ advice x is possible to give1 &1 8,try1 try1 try aga940 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,?is design %[s a scalpette1 int5d$ to cov] ! top ( ! head1 &1 :5 x is worn1 ! /raight hair %\ld be ti$1 or twi/$ 9 ) ! natural hair at ! back4 ,a cov]+ ( ?is description is v useful :5 a bald place exi/s1 or !re is a ?9ness ( ! natural gr[? ( ! hair4 ,9 mak+ x1 ! foll[+ in/ructions %\ld be obs]v$3 ,^u a clean block1 m>k ) a black lead p5cil 79 its prop] position7 ! =m & size ( ! m\nt want$4 ,take a piece ( galloon & comm5ce by driv+ a po9t or two ?r\gh x1 some:]e ab\t ! temple4 ,keep x firm by means ( po9ts1 z y proce$ along ! p5cill$ l9es1 until bo? ends ( ! galloon meet4 ,cut (f1 b leave suffici5t l5g? to take hold ( ) ! ?umb & f+]4 ,p9* toge!r1 & ) ne$le & silk sew tight & close1 leav+ %ort ends z be=e4 ,i w suppose t y int5d to put on a m\nt f\r in*es deep1 & five in*es wide1 9 %ape ne>ly squ>e1 ! front 7or l[] galloon7 be+ drawn d[n a little4 ,y w h to put ba/+ /it*es at ! f\r corn]s1 & also 9 ! c5tre to make x ! desir$ =m4 ,sew on a piece ( galloon ext5d+ f left to "r1 an in* & a-half f ! top1 "o spr+ 9 ! middle1 & o!rs if necess>y to keep ! corn]s out4 ,cov] ) net1 & ! m\nt is complete4 ,y n[ h an in* & a-half space = ! back hair & two & a-half in*es space = ! front1 ! jo9+s tak+ place ^u ! piece ( galloon affix$ = ! purpose4 ,sew on ! /raight hair fir/1 & !n ! curl$1 obs]v+ ! directions be=e giv54 ,ab\t half an ounce ( %ort curl$ hair w be suffici5t = ! "o "p1 & ?ree-qu>t]s ( an ounce ( sixte5 or eighte5-in* hair = ! o!r4 ,f9e weft2 press1 f9i% (f1 & a ref]5ce to ! illu/ration#aa w %[ its arrangem5t4 ,a great _m articles ( ?is description are 8knott$0 in/ead ( be+ wov51 & x is simply m5tion$ "h to enable me to say t ,i %all deal ) t "p ( ! subject by-&-bye4 ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,! ,*angeability ( ,fa%ion--,b&eaux1 ,fronts1 & ,fillets--,pla9 ,b&eaux--,wav$ ,b&eaux1 ) ,fr+e--,to ,wave ! ,hair ( ,b&eaux--,fr5* 7wov57 ,fronts--,fr5* 7wov57 ,fronts1 ) ,p>t+--,diamond-%ap$ & ,w+ ,fronts--,temple-m\nt$ ,fronts--,fillets or ,cauls4 ,fa%ion is ev] *ang+1 & ! fickle goddess does n seem to "k h] own m9d = v long toge!r4 ,& ?is rem>k is z applicable to hairdress+ z x is to dress1 or1 inde$1 any?+ else ) :i* ! lead]s ( ton h to d4 ,to coiffeurs no?+ p]haps is m int]e/+ ?an a p]usal ( old illu/rat$ books1 & to note ! v>i\s /yles ( coiffure4 ,fifty ye>s ago1 :5 ,felix display$ 8 tal5t 9 hairdress+1 ! front 0 di/+ui%$ by a clu/] ( curls1 made ) prop]ly cut & tap]$ hair ( ab\t sev5 or eight in*es 9 l5g?1 & ^! curls 7 designat$ 8frizz$10 or 8,fr5* curls40 ,old hairdress]s c rememb] ! 8,fr5* ,fronts10 to :i* ,i %all m]ely allude4 ,!y 7 made ^u wires1 ) full & r\nd curls 7?\gh done ) a ?9 lay] ( hair71 & ! roots z well z ! po9ts 7 wov5 9 toge!r4 ,!re w\ld probably be five1 six1 or sev5 ( ^! curls ^u ea* side2 b = an illu/ration ( !m ,i c only ref] ! read] to ! fa%ions ( bye-gone days4 ,at ! p]iod to :i* ,i am ref]r+ 7& long aft]71 x 0 no uncommon ?+ to f9d 9 hairdress]s' %ops a l>ge /ock ( fronts & b&s1 & ?\gh !y may nev] come into g5]al use aga91 /ill1 ^? :o wi% to be pr(ici5t 9 bo>d-"w1 %\ld le>n h[ to make !m4 ,to be well-gr\nd$ 9 ! rudim5ts ( any trade is ( ! greate/ importance1 = all mu/ h a beg9n+1 & ! m skilful "w ( ! clev] tradesman w surely foll[ aft]4 ,!re us$ to be a good dem& = ,fr5* 7wov57 ,r+let ,fronts1 & be+ s light & pretty1 ! +5i\s way ( mak+ !m1 ,i ?9k1 ought to be pres]v$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,! weav+ frame1 !n1 resembles t :i* 0 be=e %[n1 b has m silks ^u x4 ,! peg is specially made = ?is k9d ( "w1 & !re are a numb] ( grooves = ! silks1 b "o ) twelve spaces w p]haps answ] e purpose4 ,w9d ! silks ^u x 9 ! usual way1 & tie up 9 gr\ps ( ?ree accord+ to ! cu/om>y mode4 ,let ea* knot 7:i* =ms a /op to ! weft7 be 9 a l9e1 ?us-- & h n9e ( ! silks plac$ 9 position z %[n 9 ! illu/ration4#ab ,take fir/ a piece ( /raight hair ( ! same col\r z ! curls1 & ab\t twelve in*es long1 & draw out :at is be/ describ$ z a co>se weft4 ,?is has to be plait$1 z x 71 ^u all ! silks employ$ 9 mak+ ! 8front40 ,hold ! root end betwe5 ! ?umb & f+] ( ! left h&1 hav+ ! long hair upp]mo/4 ,comm5ce by plac+ x at ! back ( ! l[] silk1 & draw x ?r\gh4 ,!n ov] two1 "u 7or beh9d7 ?ree1 ov] two & beh9d ! top "o4 ,cont9ue 9 ! same fa%ion d[nw>ds1 b rev]s+ ! movem5t until ! :ole ( ! hair is work$ up4 ,plait tight2 b x c be made close & firm by pull+ ! hair z frequ5tly z possible to get x into %ape4 7,see ! ends & c5tre ( ! next engrav+47 ,hav+ ?us work$ ! hair1 f9i% (f at ! l[] ?ree silks by draw+ ! ends t[>ds y1 & leave x s = ! pres5t4 ,take ?ree-qu>t]s ( an ounce1 or an ounce ( twelve-in* r+let hair1 & divide into two equal p>ts1 be>+ 9 m9d t ! curls h to be sep>at$ & class$ toge!r1 & also t curls %\ld always turn to ! face1 z ,i h repeat$ly /at$4 ,place ! prop] portion into ! draw+ bru%es1 & weave five in*es ( mod]ately f9e close weft ^u ! ?ree l[] silks4 ,next make f\r in*es & ?ree-qu>t]s ( ! same description ( weft ^u ! ?ree middle silks1 leav+ a qu>t] ( an in* space betwe5 ! end ( ! plait & ! weft2 ! reason = do+ s w pres5tly appe>4 ,n[ weave five in*es ( ! same k9d ( weft ^u ! ?ree top silks1 & ! end ( ea* r[ mu/ be regul>4 ,draw (f ano!r co>se /r& ( ! /raight hair1 & plait all ! silks toge!r z be=e4 ,?ree r[s ( weft are n[ to be done exactly ! same1 leav+ ! qu>t] ( an in* space at ! correspond+ end2 !n take a ?ird /r& ( /raight hair & make a f9i%+ plait z at ! beg9n+4 ,! :ole l5g? ( ! 8front0 %\ld be elev5 in*es1 includ+ ! plait$ ends1 & c5tre piece4 ,! above illu/ration is s pla9 t no mi/ake c possibly arise if prop] att5tion be giv5 to ! subject4 ,comb out ! hair z ea* r[ is complet$1 & =m into curls4 ,n[ w>m a pair ( p9*+ irons1 press ea* section ( ! weft1 & c>efully remove ) ! scissors all sup]flu\s ends & hairs4 ,cut ! c5tre silk ( ea* gr\p ( ?ree1 f9i% (f securely & !n cut d[n4 ,i said j n[ t ! reason = leav+ ! space at ! ends ( ! middle r[ ( weft w\ld %ortly appe>1 & y are n[ to take hold ( ^? ?ree silks & pull !m4 ,d s at ea* end1 ! result w be to %ort5 ! c5tre r[2 ?us enabl+ y1 ) ! help ( spr+s1 to =m ! m\nt z design$4#ac ,make two spr+s1 file d[n ! ends1 cov] ) kid or p>*m5t1 & sew !m up 9 n>r[ galloon4 ,/it* ! sides nicely1 & fix !m to ea* r[ ( weft by means ( a ne$le & silk4 ,! spr+s may be ab\t two in*es long1 &1 ( c\rse1 mu/ be put on c>efully4 ,/r+s ( galloon are to be affix$1 & s f> z ! mak+ is conc]n$1 ! job is f9i%$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,x is n[ to be plac$ ^u a block1 press$ & dress$ z indicat$ 9 ! wood-cut 7p4 #aai74 ,! numb] ( curls is immat]ial1 = ! hair may be arrang$ 9 ?ree ^u ea* side1 or !re might be z _m z a doz54 ,9 addition to ! k9d j describ$1 !re is ano!r way ( proce$+ s z to introduce a pat5t silk1 or sk9 p>t+4 ,^! fronts c be made v light1 & see+ t !re is no net & b little galloon1 v5tilation does n suff] imp$im5t4 ,proce$ z foll[s3--,set up ! weav+ frame z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ba1 b in/ead ( n9e silks !re are n[ to be twelve4 ,tie !m 9 ?rees z be=e1 & int]tw9e a piece ( /raight1 twelve-in* hair accord+ to ! foll[+ directions3--,hold ! root end1 po9t+ d[nw>ds1 firmly betwe5 ! ?umb & f+] ( ! left h&1 & also ! l[] silk4 ,pu% ! long hair ?r\gh1 pass two silks1 & br+ ! hair to ! front aga94 ,!n pass ?ree1 pu% ! hair ?r\gh1 & pass ?ree m1 draw x =w>d1 pass two1 & ov] ! top "o4 ,! hair plait 7= plait x is7 is n[ to be cont9u$ d[nw>ds1 b ! movem5ts are to be rev]s$4 ,i w describe ?is 9 ano!r way4 ,say t y are hold+ ! hair 9 ! mann] set =? above1 toge!r ) ! fir/ l[e/ silk--n[--ov] "o1 "u two1 ov] ?ree1 "u ?ree1 ov] two1 "u "o1 & ov] ! top1 rev]s+ ! ord] ( plait+ up & d[n till ! l5g? ( hair is all us$4 ,y mu/ 8manuvre0 or "w x a little1 s z to get x tight1 firm1 & regul>1 & fa/5 (f z previ\sly in/ruct$4 ,take ?ree-qu>t]s ( an ounce1 or an ounce1 ( r+let hair ( ! requir$ l5g?1 say t5 or twelve in*es4 ,sep>ate ! curls1 putt+ all ^? :i* turn "o way toge!r1 & d ! same ) ! o!r lot4 ,be> 9 m9d t curls %\ld always turn to ! face4 ,weigh ! two portions1 s t y may h an equal quantity ( hair to "w )4 ,make f\r in*es & ?ree-qu>t]s ( weft on ! l[] silks2 f\r-&-a-half in*es ( weft on ! next gr\p2 a l quantity on ! gr\p above1 & five-&-a-qu>t] in*es ( weft ^u ! top4 ,!re is to be a vacancy ( a qu>t] ( an in* 7ne> ! plait7 9 ! second & ?ird r[s1 & ?is w expla9 :y !y diff] f ! l[] "o4 ,z !re is to be a pat5t p>t+1 a space ( an in* & a-half 7b ?is dep5ds ^u ! wid? ( ! p>t+7 mu/ be left 9 ! c5tre to :i* y h n[ arriv$2 ! top r[ =m+ an exception1 & t is to be wov5 "r along1 )\t any break :atev]4 ,comm5ce weav+ 9 ! ord] j describ$ ^u ! o!r side1 leav+ ! qu>t]-in* spaces at ! ends ( ! second & ?ird r[s z be=e4 ,complete ! weav+ ( ! top r[2 see t ! weft jo9s prop]ly 9 ! middle1 because all %\ld be uni=m & regul>4 ,make a correspond+ plait to t :i* y did at ! beg9n+2 p9* ! weft ) w>m irons2 fa/5 (f securely1 & cut d[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,x has n[ to be m\nt$4 ,take a clean wig-block--!re are two k9ds1 let me obs]ve1 8m\nt+0 blocks & 8comb+0 blocks--b x is to ! =m] t ,i am allud+4 ,p>t+s v>y 9 dep?1 b ! front "h p\rtray$ is f\r in*es deep1 & ,i w assume t y are go+ to make a simil> "o4 ,h "s ribbon ! full wid? ( ! p>t+ 7aft] ! edges ( ! latt] are tack$71 & cut (f five in*es4 ,turn up ! l[] edge ( ! ribbon & lay ! smoo? surface ^u ! block1 exactly 9 ! c5tre1 & j :]e ! front %\ld be worn :5 ^u ! head4 ,drive two po9ts into ! block1 at %ort b equal di/ances f ea* o!r2 take a ne$le & cotton1 s+le1 tie a knot1 & 8fa/5 on0 to a po9t3 pass ! ne$le ?r\gh "o corn] ( ! ribbon1 & secure ! cotton to ! po9t bel[4 ,proce$ 9 ! same way ) ! o!r corn]4 ,turn ! block r\nd1 b5d up ! end ( ! ribbon z be=e1 & secure ! corn]s by means ( ba/+ /it*es 9 a l mann]4 ,rememb]1 t 9 weav+ ,i direct$ qu>t]-in* spaces to be left at bo? ends ( ! two inn] r[s ( weft4 ,n[ draw ! silks out a qu>t] ( an in* s z to br+ ! weft close to ! plait1 = by ?is movem5t y w be enabl$ to spread out ! top & bottom r[s to ! ends ( ! spr+s1 :ile ! c5tre r[s are tight5$ & ne>ly /raight1 z !y %\ld be4 ,next sew ! /r+s on to ! plait$ ends2 make two spr+s1 ea* a full qu>t] ( an in* deep] ?an ! p>t+2 cov] z previ\sly in/ruct$1 & fix 9 _! appo9t$ places4 7,fig4 #bd cle>ly p\rtrays all t is "h describ$47 ,! two middle r[s ( weft ne$ n be sewn to !m yet4 ,n[ place all ^u ! block1 get ! m\nt$ ribbon exactly 9 ! middle1 take hold ( ! /r+s1 pull tight & drive a po9t ?r\gh !m at ! back1 9 ! place :]e !y %\ld be ti$ by ! we>]4 ,arrange s z to keep ! top r[ ( hair out ( ! way2 let ! l[] silks be a qu>t] ( an in* above ! place :]e ! p>t+ t\*es ! =ehead1 & fix all 9 _! respective positions by means ( a ne$le & silk4 ,secure ! two middle r[s ( weft to ! spr+s 9 ! same way4 ,n[ to affix ! p>t+4 ,turn 9 ! edges ( ! silk or sk9 ^u :i* ! p>t+ is work$1 & 8tack0 !m 9 su* a mann] t ! l[e/ portion 7be+ ! mo/ important7 is turn$ up la/4 ,! p>t+ is n[ to be sewn neatly to ! ribbon1 comm5c+ at ! bottom2 bo? %\ld exactly fit1 &1 :at is mo/ important1 only ! p>t+ is to be se5 :]e x t\*es ! br[4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,! press+ iron c n[ be us$1 ! curls--be !y _m or few--arrang$1 a pair ( side-combs plac$ 9 position if desir$1 & ! front is f9i%$1 z above %[n4 ,!re are o!r fronts ) r+let curls beside ^? j describ$4 ,= in/ance1 !re is a m\nt$ front ( a diamond %ape1 :i* is made to slide1 te*nically call$ a 8diamond0 front4 ,x is made z foll[s3 cut (f two pieces ( galloon ab\t eight or n9e in*es 9 l5g? ea*4 ,sew ! ends 7?r\gh & ?r\gh1 n ov] & ov]7 neat & firm2 ^! are = ! two sides4 ,place "o ( !m ^u a block1 9 ! position x is int5d$ to be worn4 ,! ends ( ! galloon 7:]e x has be5 sewn7 mu/ be upp]mo/ at any place except a corn]4 ,op5 ! ends & hamm] slightly1 s z to make !m lie z flat z possible4 ,take f\r po9ts1 & spread out ! galloon 9 a diamond %ape1 s t x w be ab\t two in*es deep1 & p]haps f\r in*es long4 ,n[ take y\r ne$le & cotton1 po9ts1 c41 & ba/e out 9 ! requir$ =m2 ! upp] & l[] ba/+s 7:]e ! spr+s g7 to be some:at po9t$2 ! ends are to be squ>e1 equal to ! wid? ( ! galloon =m+ ! /r+s4 ,make ano!r m\nt+ on ! correspond+ side ( ! block1 & bo? mu/ be alike 9 e p>ticul>4 ,^u ! block 7betwe5 ! "r & left sides ( ! m\nt+s7 a space ( two in*es or m %\ld be left1 because ! we>]'s own hair mu/ be se5 :5 ! curls are worn4 ,be> 9 m9d ?is is to be a slid+ front1 & ! lady w be able to adju/ ! curls to h] own wi%es or ta/e4 ,n[1 ! two sides be+ 9 _! prop] positions1 & firmly secur$ by means ( ! ba/+ /it*es1 sew a piece ( galloon on "o side only f "o end to ! o!r2 ! reason = do+ s w pres5tly be giv54 ,cut (f suffici5t galloon = ! /r+s1 & ?is mu/ be long en\gh to encircle ! head1 leav+ pl5ty to tie 9 a d\ble b[ z well4 ,f9d ! c5tre ( ! galloon1 & tempor>ily fa/5 x ) a po9t betwe5 ! m\nts4 ,"o ( ^! /r+s is to be cont9u$ along ! m\nt1 correspond+ ) t ^u :i* a piece ( galloon has be5 sewn1 ! rema9d] be+ fa/5$ by means ( a po9t 9 ! neck4 ,! o!r half is to be abruptly turn$ back ov] ! cr[n1 & tempor>ily secur$ to keep x out ( ! way4 ,measure (f two spr+s1 gr9d ! ends1 cov] ) n>r[ galloon z previ\sly in/ruct$1 & fix 9 _! respective places4 ,put on ! net2 sew x to ! inn] edges ( ! m\nt only1 & to bo? sides ( ! c5tre galloons & spr+s4 ,! m\nt+s are n[ ready = ! hair4 ,take suffici5t hair1 say "o ounce ( twelve-in* r+let1 & divide x equally4 ,weave a top r[ fir/1 & ord9>y front weft ) ! rema9d]4 ,d ! same ) ! second lot ( hair4 ,rememb] :at ,i h said be=e--8,all curls %\ld turn to ! face40 ,sew on ! weft1 beg9n+ at ! bottom ( ! l[] galloon1 turn ! corn]s neatly2 let ! weft appe> 9 regul> r[s1 &1 la/ly1 sew on ! top r[4 ,comb out ! hair & curl x ov] ! f+]s 9 prop] =m be=e do+ ! o!r side1 :i*1 :5 done1 is to be treat$ 9 a simil> mann]4 ,w>m y\r press+ iron1 divide ! weft 9 conv5i5tly small portions1 & press c>efully4 ,take ! m\nt+s (f ! block1 & n[ ,i w give my reason = sew+ on ! fir/ piece ( galloon1 namely1 because ?is is ! m\nt+ int5d$ to slide4 ,cut (f ano!r piece ( galloon an in* long] ?an appe>s to be necess>y4 ,turn 9 ab\t half an in* at "o end1 & sew ! corn]s securely to "o ( ! ends ( ! m\nt4 ,neatly /it* ! edge ( ?is piece ( galloon to ! edge ( t :i* is atta*$ to ! m\nt1 b be=e fa/5+ (f1 turn 9 ! free end z y did at ! beg9n+4 ,sew along ! o!r edge ( ! galloon z be=e1 & secure ! /it*es4 ,n[ !re is a holl[ space = ! /r+ to travel ?r\gh1 & a bodk9 is ! necess>y in/rum5t = lead+ x 9 ! fir/ in/ance4 ,replace ! front ^u ! block1 dress & arrange ! curls z requir$4 ,w+ ,fronts are made 9 a simil> way1 b in/ead ( be+ ( a diamond =m !y are %ap$ l birds' w+s2 ! n>r[ end1 ( c\rse1 t[>ds ! upp] "p ( ! head1 & ! broad "p ne> ! e>s4 ,m\nts ( ?is %ape are v pretty1 ! curls lie nicely toge!r1 &1 fur!rmore1 !y are easy to we>4 ,b&eaux1 or z !y are m g5]ally t]m$1 8b&s10 embrace a v>iety ( designs to suit diff]5t requirem5ts4 ,"s are made pla9 ) a pat5t p>t+ ( silk or sk92 o!rs h net1 gauze1 or human hair f\ndations1 & latt]ly a mat]ial call$ 8,yak-hair0 has be5 us$1 :i* answ]s ! same purpose1 & is less exp5sive4 ,!n1 aga91 !re are b&eaux ) wav$ hair or wav$ hair & 8fr+es10 :ile o!rs h long hair atta*$ = comb+ 9 ) ! natural hair at ! back4 ,inde$1 ?is bran* ( ! bus9ess (f]s a wide field = ! display ( ta/e1 judgm5t1 & ability4 ,! hair us$ to be 8b&$0 & !n secur$ at or ne> ! end ( ! m\nt1 & dress+ 8b&s0 & 8fronts0 9 ! days ( my appr5tice%ip 0 a cont9ual s\rce ( employm5t & pr(it4 ,! hair1 at ! "t ,i speak (1 0 g5]ally worn smoo?1 oils & pomades 7 9 reque/1 & r\gh hairdress+1 x 0 ?\ght1 %[$ want ( skill on ! "p ( ! hairdress]4 ,b /yles are ev]-*ang+1 & :at is approv$ to-day w1 p]haps1 be condemn$ to-morr[4 ,f smoo? hairdress+ we come to t :i* is dry1 wavy1 frizzy & crisp1 & ,i am dispos$ to ?9k t ladies sometimes imag9e a coiffure %\ld pres5t a r\gh appe>ance to obta9 approval4 ,?is loose me?od ( arrang+ ! hair is to ! advantage ( b&eaux1 & cov]+s = bald places1 because ! false piece c be m easily arrang$ by ! we>]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,to make a pla9 b&eau1 take a y>d & a-half ( galloon1 measure t5 in*es f "o ( ! ends b d n cut x (f4 ,turn x back & give x two or ?ree raps ) ! hamm] s z to make a m>k4 ,keep ! galloon ev5 & smoo?1 & turn back ano!r t5 in*es at ! o!r end2 bo? ( :i* are to be br\ght toge!r4 ,! ends are to be turn$ 91 & /it*$ ov] & ov]4 ,d\ble ^! sewn pieces exactly 9 ! c5tre1 & tap ) ! hamm] aga94 ,op5 out1 & y w f9d t a m\nt ( betwe5 n9e & t5 in*es is begun4 ,n[ take a m\nt+ block1 :i* %\ld be clean & smoo?1 & place ! galloon !reon4 ,! c5tre ( ! m\nt has already be5 f\nd1 & aft] op5+ x 7say7 two in*es1 tempor>ily fix by means ( po9ts 9 ! c5tre ( ! block4 ,!re is no difficulty ab\t ?is because a f9e l9e m>ks ! place1 & ,i ne$ sc>cely say ! m\nt %\ld be on ! block exactly z x is int5d$ to be worn on ! head4 ,) ! block 9 y\r lap 7! face be+ turn$ inw>ds7 take ! galloon 9 ea* h&1 pull tight1 d\ble "o piece ov] ! o!r1 & drive a po9t ?r\gh bo? at ! back ( ! neck4 ,hamm] x d[n firmly1 & !n fix ! rema9d] ( ! galloon1 :i* ,i ne$ h>dly say is int5d$ = ! /r+s1 z y ?9k prop]1 s long z !y are out ( y\r way4 ,i w n[ suppose t y are go+ to make a ?ree-in* silk or sk9 pat5t p>t+ b&1 !re=e y mu/ comm5ce ) ba/+ ! l[] galloon fir/1 & !n ! top "o1 draw+ x back at ! same "t1 s z to give ! necess>y dep?4 ,inde$1 if y make x a rule to give a qu>t] ( an in* m dep? ?an ! p>t+1 x w be1 ,i ?9k1 all ! bett]4 ,next draw back ! l[] c5tre1 & =m a pretty curve1 ! object be+ to keep ! galloon out ( ! way le/ x be se5 9 ! mo/ critical "p ( y\r "w1 &1 fur!r1 t ! p>t+ %\ld lie ^u ! =ehead bo? flat & close4 ,hav+ done ba/+1 ! next ?+ is to put on ! spr+s4 ,break two pieces ( wat* spr+ ! prop] l5g?2 ! ends ( :i* are to be r\nd$ (f & cov]$ ) kid or p>*m5t1 aft]w>ds neatly enclos+ ! spr+s 9 galloon4 ,!y %\ld h j suffici5t b5d to easily fit ! head1 & assi/ 9 hold+ ! p>t+ 9 position4 ,a ref]5ce to ! engrav+ w illu/rate all t ,i h endeav\r$ to expla94#ad ,hav+ well secur$ ! m\nt :i*1 let me say1 %\ld always be tight & firm ^u ! block1 take a piece ( ribbon1 exactly ! wid? ( ! c5tre betwe5 ! spr+s1 & sew !reon1 ! object ( ?is be+ to give a neat appe>ance to ! b& :5 (f ! block1 &1 also1 to conceal ! "w 9 ! p>t+ :i* o!rwise c\ld be se54 ,! net %\ld next be atta*$1 z direct$ 9 previ\s in/ructions1 & !n ! m\nt w be complet$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,9 addition to ! p>t+1 take an ounce ( ! be/ hair 7say7 sixte5 in*es long 7! hair 9 ! p>t+ be+ ( ! same l5g?71 & weave a top r[4 ,weave ! rema9d] ( ! hair 9 r f9e front weft1 & !n divide1 m>k+ ! division1 h[ev]1 by m]ely ty+ a piece ( /r+ 9 ! place4 ,! p>t+ %\ld next be dealt )2 turn 9 ! edges z previ\sly direct$1 8tack+0 z y proce$1 & f9i%+ ) ! l[] portion4 ,sew ! p>t+ 9 its prop] position1 beg9n+ ) ! two corn]s 9 front2 x w !n be z well to sew x at ! top1 & aft]w>ds ! sides4 ,! p>t+ %\ld be /raight1 & exactly 9 ! c5tre2 p]fectly smoo?1 & n /ret*$ or puck]$ 9 any direction4 ,! weft mu/ be sewn on next1 b %\ld !re be a r wide space betwe5 ! p>t+ & ! top edge ( ! galloon1 put 9 two or ?ree r[s ( weft fir/4 ,sew ! weft along ! bottom & top edge ( ! galloon & !n at regul> int]vals until "o side is complet$4 ,d ! same ) ! o!r side1 &1 f9ally1 put on ! top r[4 ,! numb] ( r[s w1 ( c\rse1 dep5d ^u ! quantity ( weft1 ( :i* y mu/ be ! judge1 & calculate accord+ly4 ,press1 tie ! hair ( ea* side toge!r or loosely plait 9 ?ree1 leav+ ! we>] to arrange x :5 ^u ! head4 ,:at ,i h already said is suffici5t to %[ ! le>n] h[ to make a 8b&0 ) a p>t+ ( ei!r silk or sk91 or any o!r simil> sub/ance4 ,inde$1 :5 a 8b&0 has to be produc$ = a v l[ price1 x c be made )\t a pat5t p>t+ at all1 z ! p>t+ c be made to consi/ ( weft only4 ,to d ?is1 ! spr+s ne$ n be s wide ap>t1 & ! int]v5+ space is to be fill$ up ) weft1 sewn close1 "o r[ aft] ! o!r1 beg9n+ at ! bottom4 ,if ! weft is well done & f9e1 x w lie flat1 !n1 ) ! comb1 a p>t+ %\ld be made1 & press$ into %ape4 ,true1 ! we>] _c %[ ! p>t+1 b su* "w is design$ = eld]ly ladies1 & ! cap bord]1 or o!r head-ge> hides x completely4 ,p>t+s are g5]ally us$1 h[ev]1 & ,i m]ely allude to ?is v pla9 way ( mak+ a 8b&0 to suit humble &1 necess>ily1 economical cu/om]s4 ,= mak+ a ,wav$ ,b&eau1 ) fr+e1 turn to ! in/ructions = m\nt+ already giv51 & notice ! m\nt ^u ! block4 ,a m\nt ( a simil> description is to be made1 b )\t ! ar*$ piece ( galloon 9 ! c5tre1 = ! p>t+ be+ ( a transp>5t mat]ial1 ! sk9 ( ! head %\ld be se5 ?r\gh x4 ,besides1 a d>k l9e ( galloon j 9 ! mo/ conspicu\s spot w\ld be sadly out ( ord]4 ,proce$ z foll[s3 ,take a clean block1 & m>k ) a p5cil ! exact dim5sions ( ! m\nt1 9 its prop] place4 ,be v p>ticul> ab\t ?is1 because ! p5cill$ l9es y %\ld /rictly adh]e to4 ,^! l9es1 !n1 hav+ be5 made1 comm5ce by driv+ a po9t ?r\gh ! end ( ! galloon ne> ! cr[n1 & on y\r "r side z ! trac+ faces y4 ,cont9ue ! galloon d[n to ! angle ^u ! =ehead :]e ! spr+ goes1 & fix ) a po9t4 ,keep ! galloon flat1 & turn x t[>ds ! e> :]e x is also to be secur$4 ,pass ! galloon along ! top1 & :5 9 ! c5tre ( ! block 7be+ m9dful ( ! dep? ( ! p>t+7 drive 9 ano!r po9t4 ,= ! o!r side cont9ue ! galloon z be=e1 & end on ! top ( ! block 9 a correspond+ position to t :]e x beg9s4 ,! m\nt %\ld !n resemble ! illu/ration to :i* y\r att5tion is direct$ 7,fig4 #bf71 b ) ?is diff]5ce--! c5tre ar*$ portion ( ! galloon is abs5t4 ,! galloon is n[ to be 8ba/$10 & prec$+ in/ructions obs]v$4 ,! m\nt be+ tight & firm1 ! /r+s are to be neatly sewn on1 fix$ 9 ! neck1 & ! long ends put out ( ! way z be=e4 ,x is n[ se5 t !re is a gap 9 ! c5tre1 & unless "s k9d ( /ay is put at ! l[] "p1 ! p>t+ w1 9 all probability1 soon get torn4 ,to obviate ?is1 x is usual to employ a mat]ial call$ 8silk-worm gut10 :i* is securely fa/5$ across ! bottom1 or ne>ly at ! bottom1 = ! p>t+ %\ld be s arrang$ z to lie flat on ! =ehead--! clos] x lies ! bett]4 ,sometimes a :ite horse hair is us$ = ! purpose1 & occasionally :ite silk1 b :atev] ! mat]ial1 x %\ld be /rong & durable4 ,x is usual1 also1 to put additional 8/ays0 ab\t an in* ap>t1 "r along ! p>t+1 = !y are n se5 ^u ! head1 & mu* great] /r5g? is giv5 to ! article4 ,inde$1 :5 ! p>t+ is m ?an ?ree in*es deep x is absolutely necess>y to d s4 ,put on ! spr+s z be=e1 let !m be n>r[1 & 9 ?is in/ance !y may be cov]$ ) black tape1 z ! galloon ^u :i* !y w be sewn conceals !m f view :5 (f ! block4 ,n[ atta* ! net1 & ! m\nt+ is complet$4 ,a m\nt1 let me obs]ve1 %\ld be accurately design$1 & measurem5ts tak5 f any conv5i5t place ^u ! block mu/ correspond1 "o side ) ! o!r4 ,inde$1 :]e mu* bo>d-"w is done1 x is a /rong recomm5dation to be a good 8m\nt]10 & a correct eye is n among ! lea/ ( su* a man's qualifications4 ,x matt]s n h[ well done ! knott+1 weav+1 or sew+ may be2 %\ld ! m\nt be inexact1 ! "w is faulty f ! v comm5cem5t1 & might result 9 ! article be+ return$4 ,?is is be/ avoid$4 ,!re=e1 make x a rule to 8/>t fair0 ) y\r "w1 &1 if sl[1 be sure1 rememb]+ at all times t 8practice makes p]fect10 & h[ important x is t /rict att5tion %\ld be paid to m9ute details4 ,! m\nt hav+ be5 f9i%$1 ! next ?+ is to put 9 a transp>5t p>t+1 ) a 8fr+e40 ,?is 8fr+e0 %\ld be ( %ort1 curl$ hair1 :i* c be arrang$ :5 ! job is f9i%$4 ,9 transp>5t p>t+s g5]ally !re are no edges to turn up1 l ^? made ( silk or sk91 & allud$ to be=e4 ,comm5ce by sew+ ! p>t+ to ! corn] ( ! m\nt on y\r "r h& fir/1 f9i% (f1 & !n atta* x to ! correspond+ corn] on ! left side1 keep+ ! l9e ( p>t+ exactly 9 ! middle4 ,x w !n be prop] to sew ! top2 see t x is firm1 /raight1 & smoo?1 & conclude by /it*+ ! sides4 ,ab\t ! same l5g? & quantity ( hair w be requir$ = ?is z 0 us$ 9 ! previ\s "o2 !re=e1 weave a top r[1 divide ! weft1 & proce$ accord+ to ! in/ructions already giv54 ,sew ! weft on 9 r[s1 beg9n+ at ! bottom2 neatly & securely turn ! corn]s2 &1 la/ly1 affix ! top r[4 ,press1 & dress z requir$2 take x (f ! block1 draw out ! ba/+ /it*es1 & ! "w is done1 unless y wi% to give a wav9ess to ! hair4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,( c\rse ! hair c be left /raight if desir$1 b if wav$ 7x ne$ n be v /rong71 ! effect is mu* m natural4 ,put ! b& on ! block aga91 & ! hair c be wav$ 9 ei!r ( ! foll[+ ways3--7#a7 ,by plait+4 ,slightly damp ! hair1 & make two or m ?ree-plaits ^u ea* side4 ,plait r tight1 & p9* ) mod]ately w>m irons1 b only suffici5t to remove ! moi/ure1 if any1 & to fix ! wave4 ,?is1 p]haps1 is ! mo/ simple & natural way ( do+ x4 7#b7 ,) hair-p9s4 ,divide ! side-hair 9 two or ?ree equal portions1 s z to make ! wave regul> & uni=m4 ,take a long hair-p91 & ) ! left h& hold x close to ! roots ( "o ( ! pieces1 keep+ ! prongs r wide ap>t4 ,!n1 ) ! "r h&1 entw9e ! piece ( hair 9 & out1 z ?\gh =m+ ) x any numb] ( figures #h4 ,hav+ come to ! ends 7or done z mu* z y consid] necess>y71 pu% up close to ! head ( ! p91 turn+ back "o ( ! po9ts to keep ! hair well 9 place4 ,d ! same ) all2 p9* ) w>m irons1 & all[ x to be q cold be=e draw+ out ! p9s4 7#c7 ,curl+-irons are us$ also = wav+ ! hair1 b1 al?\gh p]missible :5 dress+ a lady's hair1 ,i d n advise _! use = "w ( ?is description4 ,!re are o!r me?ods ( wav+ hair1 z ) /r+1 c>d1 wire1 etc41 b :at ,i h describ$1 if c>efully done1 w answ] ne>ly all requirem5ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,temple-,m\nt$ ,fronts4--,measure (f tw5ty-?ree in*es ( galloon1 d\ble x1 & /it* at ! ends ?r\gh & ?r\gh4 ,%ift ! ends a little1 s t !y w come any:]e b :]e ba/+ /it*es are likely to be put4 ,n[ d\ble ! galloon aga91 tap x ) ! hamm]1 op5 x1 & y w f9d t y h made two creases4 ,put ^! creases ^u ! l9e :i* m>ks ! c5tre ( ! block1 & fix !m ) po9ts to ab\t ! dep? ( ! p>t+4 ,take o!r po9ts & br+ ! m\nt into %ape4 ,y w n[ require a rule1 or tape measure1 a pair ( compasses1 & a l>ge d\ble-?read$ ne$le1 to enable y to make correct measurem5ts4 ,y c measure f any conv5i5t spot1 b :5 ! /r+s are on1 !y %\ld be s adju/$ t1 :5 (f ! block & tight5$1 ! m\nt w incl9e inw>ds bo? at top & bottom1 ?us prov+ t x w b9d1 or fit well to ! head4 ,! %ape is well def9$ 9 ! illu/ration1#ae & ! places :]e ba/+ /it*es are to be put di/9ctly %[n4 ,spr+s are made & fix$ on ! top ab\t ! wid? ( ! p>t+1 ! int]v5+ space be+ fill$ up ) a piece ( ribbon4 ,a spr+ is also plac$ on ea* side ne> ! e>1 s z to keep ! m\nt well 9 %ape1 & ! /r+s1 z w be se51 are made to cross ov] f ! bottom galloon to ! top4 ,! tra9$ eye w p]ceive at a glance h[ com=table ?is %ap$ m\nt is likely to be to ! we>]4 ,hav+ sewn on ! net1 comm5c+1 z usual1 ^u ! inn] edge ( ! l[] galloon1 ! next ?+ is to put 9 ! p>t+1 :i* %\ld be ei!r sk9 or silk--b if transp>5t a deviation w h to be made z already expla9$4 ,! same rem>k applies z to :e!r ! hair %\ld be knott$ or wov54 ,^! matt]s mu/ always be decid$ ^u at fir/1 :5 ! m\nt is comm5c$4 ,take 7say7 #a oz4 ( twelve-in* r+let hair1 & put ! curls 9 two lots z usual4 ,weigh "o p>cel aga9/ ! o!r1 & balance ev5ly4 ,rememb] :at ,i h said ab\t ! curls incl9+ to ! face4 ,make a ?9 top r[1 comb out1 & cut d[n4 ,weave ! hair 9 f9e front weft1 & contrive to make x ( a simil> l5g? = bo? sides4 ,comm5ce sew+ on at or ne> ! /r+1 & proce$ z be=e in/ruct$4 ,9 /it*+ on ! weft be c>eful to well secure ! net1 & ! spaces mu/ be accord+ to ! l5g? ( ! weft us$--c]ta9ly !y %\ld n be s mu* z a qu>t] ( an in* ap>t4 ,let bo? sides be uni=m & alike 9 e respect4 ,press & dress z requir$1 & reta9 ! hair 9 position by means ( side-combs4 ,if1 at ! outset1 x is decid$ to 8knot0 ! hair1 !n ! m\nt %\ld be prep>$ accord+ly1 respect+ :i* ,i h giv5 in/ructions 9 ano!r place4#af ,fillets 7or ,cauls74--,a fillet signifies a little b& int5d$ to tie ab\t ! hair2 & a caul 7probably a modification ( c[l7 intimates1 9 trade p>lance1 a net or "s su* cov]+ = ! head4 ,b t :i* ,i am go+ to describe is probably unkn[n to _m1 al?\gh x 0 =m]ly adopt$ by eld]ly wom5 in/ead ( a wig4 ,?is c be acc\nt$ = 9 two or ?ree ways4 7#a7 ,because at ! "t ,i speak ( 8fronts0 7 g5]ally worn2 7#b7 ladies' wigs 7 heavy & exp5sive1 & 7#c7 a fillet or caul1 be+ mu* *eap]1 well answ]$ ! purpose4 ,inde$1 :]e ! necessity exi/s = we>+ a head cov]+1 ?r\gh loss ( hair1 or o!r causes1 p]haps a fillet w\ld be mo/ acceptable to _m 9 want ( "s su* assi/ance4 ,proce$ z foll[s3 ,measure ! head1 & use a m\nt+-block ab\t "o in* l>g] 9 size4 ,put on any %ap$ m\nt y please s long z x is adapt$ to ! purpose1 & suits ! requirem5t ( ! lady = :om x is int5d$4 ,9 place ( /r+s use a piece ( wide galloon :i* is neatly atta*$ to ! m\nt1 & fits com=tably r\nd ! head4 ,! galloon may be half an in* or m 9 wid?1 or a m\nt c be made 9 ! neck 7ext5d+ f e> to e>7 resembl+ t portion ( a lady's wig4 ,hav+ ! m\nt1 spr+s1 & wide galloon 9 position1 y h next to obta9 a silk net1 & put x on to ! block1 cov]+ ! entire m\nt & neck-piece z well4#ag ,! me%es ( ! net %\ld n be too op51 because ! weft has to be sewn ^u a "p ( x4 ,i ne$ h>dly obs]ve t no portion ( ! net mu/ be all[$ to project ov] ! l[] edges ( ! galloon & m\nt4 ,! hair is n[ to be divid$ z be=e2 a top-r[ wov51 & good front1 or 8twice-90 weft made4 ,be> 9 m9d t in/ead ( sew+ x along ! l[] galloon1 & turn+ at ! p>t+ & /r+s1 x is n[ to be sewn f bottom to top2 9 o!r words--beg9 sew+ on ! weft :]e ! wide galloon jo9s2 let ! hair incl9e or fall ov] ! e>1 &1 z ,i said j n[1 sew ! weft f bottom to top1 turn+ ea* r[ ^u ! l[] & upp] galloon4 ,! reason is1 t z ! me%es are mu* m op5 ?an 9 ! ord9>y description ( net1 ! r[s ( weft ought to be %ort5$ s z to give additional /r5g?4 ,hav+ f9i%$ ! front "p1 att5tion mu/ n[ be direct$ to ! back1 or r t portion :i* fits 9 ! neck & ext5ds f e> to e>4 ,h ready 7say7 half an ounce ( 8,sevigny10 or 8doll0 hair4 ,?is is tight curl$ hair ( ab\t f\r or five in*es 9 l5g?--! same 9 fact z t us$ 9 mak+ 8fr+es40 ,weave v f9e1 & sew on to ! wide galloon1 turn+ at ea* end ( x4 ,! long & %ort hair w ?us meet ne> ! front ( ! e>1 :]e ! jo9+ mu/ be neat4 ,if ! hair is to be worn ei!r pla9 or wavy & b&$1 ( c\rse hair 7say7 ( sixte5 in*es 9 l5g? %\ld be us$1 b if 9 curls1 probably t5 or twelve-in* hair w be suffici5t4 ,dress z requir$4 ,! %ort-curl$ hair 7aft] ! "w is press$7 c be arrang$ 9 small r+ curls1 or 9 ! mann] ( a close fr+e4 ,rememb]1 ,i said t a block some:at l>g] ?an ! head 0 to be us$1 & ! reason is pla94 ,! fillet is sure to be l>ge en\gh1 & ?is w all[ = %r9k+2 besides1 !re is to be an ela/ic spr+ put 9 ! neck :i* mu/ be done s z to grip or b9d ! head prop]ly4 ,if ^! details are c>efully att5d$ to1 ! fillet w fit 8l a glove10 be a s\rce ( com=t to ! we>]1 & a cr$it to ! mak]4 ,h[ an ela/ic spr+ is to be plac$ & held 9 position w appe> 9 due c\rse4 ,,*apt] ,,ix4 ,g5]al ,obs]vations on ! ,manufacture ( ,p>t+s & ,cr[ns--,non-transp>5t ,p>t+s2 ,silk & ,sk9--,transp>5t ,p>t+s2 ,net1 ,gauze1 ,yak1 & ,human ,hair ,f\ndations--8,! ,g5ealogy ( ,implantation0--,knott+1 & "s rem>ks !reon--,s+le ,knott+--,d\ble ,knott+4 ,p>t+s1 no matt] = :at use !y may be int5d$1 are ei!r transp>5t or opaque4 ,! f\ndation ( transp>5t p>t+s is inv>iably net1 gauze1 yak hair1 or human 7:ite7 hair1 ! two latt] sub/ances be+ specially adapt$ to ! purpose4 ,inde$1 any?+ t w enable ! work] to imitate nature s closely z to defy detection1 might be employ$1 if x be durable & imp]vi\s to ! effects ( p]spiration--two po9ts nev] to be ov]look$4 ,! great art ( p>t+-mak+ is to cause ! jo9+ 7:]e x comes 9 contact ) ! =ehead7 to be s exquisitely well done1 t x passes unnotic$ ev5 by a ke5-sight$ & critical obs]v]4 ,n[ is a *ance = "s +5i\s "y man to make himself fam\s1 z p]fection is n yet rea*$1 ,i v5ture to ?9k 9 ?is respect4 ,true1 ! 8fr+e0 goes f> to produce a natural appe>ance 9 ^? :o are /ill "y1 b a 8fr+e0 is out ( place altoge!r ^u ! br[ ( a matronly dame1 or atta*$ to ! p>t+ ( a g5tleman's wig2 !re=e ,i repeat !re yet rema9s some?+ to be done 9 ! matt] ( p>t+s1 & probably a =tune awaits ! lucky inv5tor4 ,b !re are pr(ess$ pat5t p>t+ mak]s1 &1 z a rule1 x is mo/ advisable to pur*ase ?is portion ( ! "w ready made1 or h x done to ord]4 ,:5 conv5i5t1 especially if a hairdress] resides at a di/ance f ,london or c]ta9 prov9cial t[ns1 x is exp$i5t to keep a small /ock ( su* goods 9 ! h\se1 = occasionally x happ5s t an ord] is want$ 9 a hurry4 ,mo/ 9 reque/ are p>t+s ( ?ree1 ?ree & a-half & f\r in*es deep1 made ) hair sixte5 or eighte5 in*es long1 &1 ,i may add1 common col\rs4 ,"h !n is a little 8/ock-9-trade0 :i* is sure to come 9 useful4 ,%\ld ! read]1 h[ev]1 wi% to make ! p>t+ himself1 ,i w m]ely say t 8f\ndations0 ( ! usual l5g? & wid? c be obta9$ ?r\gh ! usual trade *annels1 b ,i may haz>d an op9ion1 :i* is1 t v few hairdress]s execute ?is k9d ( "w !mselves4 ,non-transp>5t p>t+s are made ^u silk or sk91 ! latt] consi/+ ( a v ?9 sk9 ^u :ite or pale-p9k silk4 ,i h kn[n o!r sub/ances us$ 7m by way ( an exp]im5t ?an any?+ else7 b ! f\ndations nam$ are1 s f> z ,i am aw>e1 univ]sally employ$4 ,silk p>t+s are ! *eape/1 sk9 p>t+s & net p>t+s come next1 & s on1 ! price p] in* be+ regulat$ accord+ to wid?1 f\ndation1 l5g? & quality ( ! hair1 workman%ip1 c4 ,x is wor?y ( obs]vation t fronts1 9 ye>s gone by1 7 almo/ univ]sally worn by m>ri$ wom54 8,! fir/ grey hair0 gave ! signal1 & a visit to ! hairdress] foll[$ %ortly aft]4 ,8 aid 0 invok$1 &1 if hold+ a good position 9 ! trade1 8 design 0 to produce a front natural 9 appe>ance1 & suffici5tly op5 9 ! p>t+1 to suit ! expression ( ! features4 ,b s9ce ! introduction ( silk & sk9 p>t+s 7:i* occasionally %[ a division little m ?an a /raight l9e7 ! aim seems to be diff]5t1 & a p>t+ is produc$ ?ick] & clos] ?an w\ld be se5 on a "y girl's head4 ,! result ( ?is is to imp>t a heavy aspect to ! c\nt5ance1 :i* is at all times undesirable1 & w acc\nt 9 "s degree = _! discont9uance4 ,^! unnatural-look+ p>t+s are sometimes dem&$ by p]sons :o make no pret5sion to good ta/e1 & !y w n be advis$ by ! tradesman1 :o kn[s full well :at is likely to suit !m be/4 ,p>t+s :i* require ! mo/ skill 9 _! manufacture1 if ! aim be to produce a good article1 are silk & sk9 p>t+s1 & to make ! fir/ ( ^! proce$ z foll[s3--,9 proportion to ! l5g? ( p>t+ requir$ prep>e a /\t wire frame--say six in*es long1 & f\r in*es wide1 & t y are go+ to "w a ?ree & a-half in* p>t+4 ,) ! help ( a ne$le & /\t cotton1 /ret* ! silk firm & secure 9 ! c5tre ( ! frame1 s t x is immovable & long] ?an requir$4 ,weave ! hair 9 8close10 or 8once 90 weft1 keep+ x free f grease or dirt le/ ! f\ndation be soil$4 ,atta* ! weft to ! back ( ! silk1 & draw a few hairs ?r\gh at a "t by means ( a small hook made = ! purpose4 ,"w regul>ly & me?odically1 be>+ 9 m9d ! wid? & l5g? requir$4 ,! c5tre portion mu/ be done v f9e1 :ile ! sides may be co>s]1 a some:at l>g] hook be+ us$4 ,hav+ drawn all ! hair ?r\gh to :at is n[ ! top1 take a comb & 8make a p>t+0 ! same z y w\ld ^u a lady's head4 ,comb ! hair smoo?ly on ea* side1 w>m ! press+-iron1 & press into %ape4 ,cut d[n1 & ! p>t+ is made4 ,x is n reasonable to expect fir/ attempts to af=d mu* satisfaction1 b procure a well-made p>t+ & /rive to imitate x by all ! means 9 y\r p[]4 ,) a good patt]n1 y may obs]ve :at c be done1 & if y desire to ent] ! =emo/ ranks1 y mu/ endeav\r to equal1 if n excel o!rs4 ,sk9 p>t+s are made ! same way1 b1 z ,i h be=e said1 a ?9 sk9 7sold = ! purpose7 is laid ^u ! silk be=e work+4 ,transp>5t p>t+s are to be made ^u a net1 gauze1 ,yak-hair1 or human-hair f\ndation4 ,pr(ess$ pat5t-p>t+ mak]s no d\bt use a frame1 b a hairdress] w\ld1 9 all probability1 make ! p>t+ ^u a block1 & 9 its prop] place4 ,( c\rse1 x is be/ to d ! p>t+ z a sep>ate portion1 because x c be easi] press$ into %ape1 & ! piece ( ?9 sk9 7previ\sly sewn und]nea?7 = prev5t+ ! effects ( p]spiration1 w escape be+ punctur$ by ! knott+ ne$le4 ,h[ev]1 ?is is a matt] = consid]ation by ! work]1 :o mu/ necess>ily be some:at exp]i5c$ be=e v5tur+ to knot p>t+s4 ,! k9d ( net us$ = p>t+s c be pur*as$ at a hair m]*ant's2 x is made ( cotton1 & %\ld be f9e1 smoo?1 & z regul> z possible consi/5t ) durability4 ,gauze is mu* f9] & clos] ?an net1 be+ manufactur$ expressly = ! purpose4 ,x is l>gely us$ = scalpettes1 g5tlem5's scalps1 & f9e knott$ "w g5]ally4 ,tulle,yak1 or ,yak-hair f\ndations1 are made abroad1 & well suit ! purpose = :i* !y are int5d$4 ,l o!r "w ( ?is description1 ! me%es v>y 9 size1 & c be _h ei!r op5 or v close4 ,b ! be/ f\ndations are made ( :ite human hair1 ) a squ>e1 r\nd1 diamond1 or diamond-b>r$ me%2 ! f\ndations = cr[ns1 & cr[ns & p>t+s1 be+ specially prep>$4 ,speak+ ( ! ,yak-hair manufacture1 a rec5t writ] says1 8!re is a l>ge quantity ( good lace made 9 ! m\nta9 villages ( ,saxony & ,bohemia1 & ?\s&s ( h&s are ?us con/antly employ$4 ,?is indu/ry has ( late receiv$ an addition 9 ! manufacture ( a peculi> lace or tulle made ( :ite hair4 ,x 0 introduc$ into ?is di/rict a few ye>s ago by a ,norm&y lady1 & has s9ce !n ext5d$ to su* a degree t n[ 9 "o t[n 7,ro!nk]*57 alone sev]al hundr$ p]sons live by x4 ,! lace is made ( :ite human hair procur$ f all c\ntries ( ,europe1 b pr9cipally f ,italy4 ,! price paid = x ranges f "o p5ny to two %ill+s p] gramme1 accord+ to quality1 & ! f9e lace made out ( x is us$ z a f\ndation = wigs40 ,to give complet5ess to my "w1 a %ort acc\nt ( 8,! ,g5ealogy ( ,implantations10 f ! ,moniteur de la ,coiffure1 w1 no d\bt1 int]e/ ! read]1 = x has a direct be>+ on ! subject4 ,! j\rnal nam$ _h ! foll[+ "u ! head+ ( 8,croisat & ! #aja ,coiffeurs40 8,9 #ahje1 ,leguet1 hairdress] at ,lyons1 inv5t$ ! fle%-col\r$ hair-net4 ,po/i*es _h hi!rto be5 s co>sely made t ?is improvem5t 9 ! manufacture ( wigs caus$ q a s5sation4 ,! fame ( ! inv5tor soon rea*$ ,p>is1 & ,m4 ,telli]1 hairdress] at ! ,palais ,royal1 tri$ to buy ,leguet's pat5t4 ,9 #ahaj1 ,leguet1 :o _h f\nd t 8 wigs did n keep ! desir$ firmness 7! hair be+ badly knott$71 easily agre$ to c$e 8 pat5t to ,telli]4 ,an ,engli% firm hav+ he>d ( ,leguet's inv5tion1 procur$ "o ( 8 wigs1 :i* !y imitat$ & improv$4 ,?is came to ! k ( ,telli]1 :o w5t to ,london to /udy ! improvem5ts4 ,mean:ile1 ,c>ron1 ano!r coiffeur at ! ,palais ,royal1 b\ght f a ,lyons silk weav] ! process = ! implantation on silk ( a diff]5t k9d1 :i*1 ?\gh less suitable = m5's wigs ?an t ( ,leguet's1 gave mu* neat] p>t+s = wom5's "w4 ,telli]1 on 8 return to ,p>is1 int5d+ to consid]ably ext5d 8 novel indu/ry1 associat$ himself ) a /ock+-weav] ( ! ,cev5nes4 ,h5ce arose a law suit betwe5 ,c>ron & ,telli]4 ,b1 contr>y to ! ord9>y rule1 ?is law suit1 in/ead ( ru9+ ! p>ties m imm$iately conc]n$1 help$ to make _! =tune4 ,all ! pap]s 7 full ( ?is suit1 & e baldhead--fem99e or mascul9e--9 ! k+dom 0 eag] to see & p]*ance try to rejuv5ate itself by ! novel inv5tions4 ,! poor ,lyons weav]1 :o _h p>t$ ) 8 pat5t1 be+ unable to witness o!rs amass+ =tunes by its means1 :ile he rema9$ 9 mis]y1 put an end to 8 days4 ,9 ! law suit ,m4 ,telli]1 hav+ produc$ ! pat5t b\ght ( ,leguet1 got ! be/ ( x4 8,mi*alon1 a weav]1 inv5t$ ! silk p>t+1 produc$ ) a long piece ( silk )\t head1 :i* he put on 8 %uttle4 ,dufaur inv5t$ ! knott$ hair f\ndation1 knott+ ! hair by means ( a gauze ne$le4 ,!n a workman e/abli%$ himself 9 ! ,faub\rg ,/4 ,d5is1 :o made p>t+s 9 ! way ,c>ron made !m4 ,he 0 ! fir/ to make p>t+s 9 he>t %ape4 ,! bro!rs ,lavacqu]ie p]fect$ ! "w ( ! latt]4 ,valon1 "o ( ,dufaur's workm51 fur!r p]fect$ ! wigs by giv+ a tight] & bett] fit4 8,9 #ahbb1 ,s\*>d took out a pat5t at ,bordeaux = implantations made ) an embroid]y ne$le1 & hav+ 9 ! c\rse ( "t p]fect$ 8 inv5tion1 he tri$ to implant hair on a pig's bladd]1 :i*1 be+ l9$ ) gros de ,naples1 made an excell5t bald-wig = !atrical p]=mances1 & produc$ a v good effect4 8,9 #ahbc ,s\*>d w5t to ,engl&1 to /udy ! mann] 9 :i* ! ,engli% made _! silk net wigs4 ,he f\nd ! ,engli% silk net inf9itely sup]ior to ! ,fr5*1 & be adopt$ ! =m] = 8 wigs4 8,?is g5ealogy ( ,m4 ,s\*>d's 0 writt5 9 #ahcf1 & s9ce !n implantation has made imm5se progress40 ,en\gh1 p]haps1 has be5 said ab\t ! manufacture ( p>t+s to acqua9t ! read] ) ! mann] 9 :i* ?is k9d ( "w is done2 b ,i reg>d p>t+-mak+ z a sep>ate bran*1 & only ^? :o h con/ant practice c expect to become pr(ici5t4 ,knott+1 h[ev]1 lies m )9 ! hairdress]'s doma91 & to be a clev] knott] ! work] mu/ be pati5t1 c>eful1 h good eyesight1 & br+ to be> s\nd judgm5t 9 ! arrangem5t & execution ( 8 "w4 ,9 p>ts n se51 or r :]e knots are conceal$ ?r\gh be+ cov]$ ) ! hair above1 !y may be some:at co>sely done1 b 9 conspicu\s places1 su* z p>t+s or cr[ns1 ! greate/ skill mu/ be exhibit$1 & ,nature copi$ z exactly z possible4 ,i h _h occasion to ref] at diff]5t times to knott+1 & x w be well1 p]haps1 to speak ( x 9 g5]al t]ms be=e dwell+ ^u any class ( "w 9 p>ticul>4 ,9 prep>+ a m\nt = knott+ 7no matt] :e!r x be = a b&eau1 front1 scalp1 scalpette1 or :at n7 y h to decide fir/ :e!r !re is to be weft ^u ! edges ( ! net1 & likewise ^u ! galloon4 ,if s1 ! net ne$ only be cut (f z be=e m5tion$2 b :5 ! m\nt is to be knott$ all ov]1 ! edges ( ! net mu/ be all[$ to ext5d ! eigh? ( an in* or m beyond ! :ole ( ! galloon4 ,"h is ! reason3 9 ord] to knot ov] ! galloon & close to ! edges ( x1 t portion ( ! net :i* projects mu/ be turn$ "u & 9 ^u ! galloon1 to :i* x %\ld be neatly & securely sewn4 ,inde$1 ! net mu/ be sewn to ! galloon :]ev] edges occur1 = x n only holds ! net firm & tight1 b :5 tak5 (f ! block !re are no ugly op5+s visible4 ,be> 9 m9d ! net is to be put on firm & tight1 ! me%es well op51 & no 8bagg9ess0 9 any "p4 ,!re are diff]5t k9ds ( net1 & y w h to select p>ticul> sorts = special "w1 ab\t :i* exp]i5ce--if no o!r in/ructor c be approa*$--mu/ be y\r guide4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cj4 ,knott+ ne$les are1 z ! accompany+ illu/ration %[s1 small hooks set 9 wood5 h&les1 & c be pur*as$ :]e ! trimm+s = wig-mak+1 etc41 are procurable4 ,^! ne$les are f9e1 m$ium1 & co>se1 ea* "o be+ employ$ accord+ to ! k9d ( "w requir$ to be done4 ,= in/ance1 9 knott+ ov] galloon or ribbon1 :]e ! knots _c be se5 :5 ! m\nt is exam9$1 !y might be co>sely done1 especially if ?ickness ( hair be requir$4 ,^u net1 p]haps ! m$ium-siz$ ne$le _h bett] be us$1 b a ne$le suffici5tly f9e to c>ry only a s+le hair w h to be employ$ 9 p>t+s & cr[ns if y attempt to 8defy detection40 ,c>e is necess>y 9 ! selection ( a ne$le1 ! po9t ( :i* %\ld turn1 z x 71 into ! neck ( x1 o!rwise1 9 draw+ back1 ! hook is likely to cat* ! net1 & y\r h&iwork /&s a *ance !n ( be+ spoil$ be=e x is complet$4 ,let me "h give "o ^w ( advice4 ,:5 y h obta9$ ne$les to y\r lik+1 take ! greate/ c>e ( !m1 = if y are pr\d ( good workman%ip !y might come to be reg>d$ z 8little treasures40 ,! fir/ ?+ a le>n] %\ld d is to make a 8s+le knot10 & ,i w\ld recomm5d t a m\nt be put on ! block1 say simil> to t "h %[n1 m]ely = ! sake ( practis+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,take "s /raight hair ab\t six in*es long2#ah put x betwe5 ! draw+ bru%es1 & place a weight !reon z ?\gh y 7 go+ to d weav+4 ,draw out a weft & d\ble x ov] at ! roots1 leav+ !m 7! roots7 r long4 ,y h n[ made a loop1 :i* is to be held firmly betwe5 ! ?umb & f+] ( ! left h&4 ,take ! knott+ ne$le & hold x ) ! ?umb & f+] ( ! "r h&2 ins]t ! hook 9 "o op5+ ( ! net & all[ x to pass out at ! next4 ,by ?is movem5t y h tak5 up a ?read 7or l9e7 ^u :i* y are go+ to knot ! hair4 ,n[ br+ ! loop$ portion ( ! hair =w>d & hook x ) ! ne$le2 ,fig4 #ca cle>ly indicates ! position4 ,turn ! op5 "p ( ! hook d[nw>ds1 b keep+ firm hold ( ! hair 7by a little dext]ity y may avoid cat*+ hold ( ! net7 & draw ! ne$le back aga94 ,let ! op5 "p ( ! hook n[ face ! weft1 & by a slight movem5t ( ! ne$le ! loop w slip back a little t[>ds ! h&le :ile y cat* hold ( or hook ! weft aga94 ,?is is well %[n 9 ! foll[+ illu/ration4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,y h n[ to give x a turn 7:i* to a c]ta9 ext5t secures ! hair71 draw ! hook 7) ! hair7 ?r\gh ! loop2 let g ! hair f ! left h& at ! same mom5t1 & pull r tight4 ,! knot w !n be ^u ! net1 & if ! roots are long fairly secure4 ,( c\rse !re is a difficulty 9 describ+ ^! te*nicalities1 b ,i ?9k ) a little practice !re ne$ n be any tr\ble 9 ma/]+ ! details1 at lea/ s f> z ,i h gone4 ,) reg>d to s+le knott+1 ,i w\ld obs]ve t x is n s secure z d\ble knott+1 b ! knots c & %\ld be made mu* f9]4 ,9 s+le knott+1 ! roots ought always to be long1 mu* long] 9 fact ?an :5 ! knots are d\ble1 & ought only to be done ) a hair or two at a "t1 su* v f9e "w be+ necess>y 9 ! middle ( p>t+s1 ! c5tres ( cr[ns1 etc4 ,:5 s+le knots are co>sely made1 !y are liable to be caught by ! comb :5 arrang+ ! hair1 &1 z a consequ5ce1 ! weft pull$ out2 b if f9ely work$ ?is is n s liable to occur4 ,s+le knott+ c be done rapidly ) %ort hair1 z 9 g5tlem5's wigs1 b x is some:at insecure1 &1 !re=e1 be/ avoid$4 ,bett] be 8sl[ & sure0 at y\r "w1 ?an spoil x altoge!r m]ely to be quick4 ,/rive at all times to execute good "w1 s t y\r employ] may dep5d ^u :at y d1 & all t emanates f ! %op w1 9 consequ5ce1 be> ! /amp ( excell5ce4 ,) reg>d to d\ble knott+1 ,i wi% y to turn to ! in/ructions giv5 on page #aec1 &1 to avoid recapitulation1 beg9 ) ! words1 8,take "s /raight hair10 etc41 & foll[ on till y come to 8draw ! hook 7) ! hair7 ?r\gh ! loop10 !n /op = a mom5t & take up "h4 ,i repeat--8draw ! hook 7) ! hair7 ?r\gh ! loop20 let t slide back a little z x did be=e1 take hold ( 7or hook7 ! weft aga91 giv+ ! ne$le at ! same mom5t a turn2 draw ?r\gh ! loop once m1 & pull tight d[n ^u ! net4 ,9 o!r words1 proce$ z ?\gh y 7 go+ to make a s+le knot1 b in/ead ( draw+ x ?r\gh at once1 make ano!r knot ^u ! hair itself1 & !n draw ?r\gh4 ,?us y h made or ti$ a d\ble knot1 & !re ne$ n be any fe> ( its com+ away1 = x is too well secur$4 ,^! d\ble knots %\ld be made :]e !y are be/ conceal$1 b ought n to be co>sely done1 o!rwise !y w appe> unsightly :5 ! workman%ip is exam9$4 ,practice1 ) att5tion to details1 w soon enable y to become exp]t4 ,:5 ! job is complet$1 7if x be a front1 or a b&1 or any?+ ( t description71 h ready a top r[ ( weft1 & sew x on z be=e in/ruct$1 press1 & f9i% (f 9 ! usual way4 ,,*apt] ,x4 ,( ,wigs 9 ,g5]al1 & "s ,hi/orical rem>ks !reon--,on ,tak+ an ,ord] = a ,wig or ,scalp--,means adopt$ = secur+ !m to ! ,head--,directions = ,measurem5t--,on ,m\nt+ & ,mak+ a ,scalp--8,p5-knife0 & ,metallic ,spr+s--,a ,scalp describ$ ) ,p>t+ & ,cr[n--,scalps ) ,gauze1 ,net1 & ,human ,hair ,f\ndations4 ,( wigs 9 g5]al h[ mu* c\ld be writt56 ,!y are almo/ 8z old z ! hills10 & p]haps among/ ! anci5t ,egyptians might be f\nd ! e>lie/ mak]s ( ! p]iwig1 or p]uke4 ,inde$1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum c be se5 a wig f ! ,temple ( ,isis t 0 made two or ?ree ?\s& ye>s ago2 ! curl & mat]ial ( :i* x is made be+ well pres]v$4 ,probably ! cu/om ( %av+ ! heads ( ! p 7= all _h to submit to x71 l$ to ! introduction ( wigs1 &1 z ,wilk9son says1 8x may appe> s+ul> t s w>m a cov]+ to ! head %\ld h be5 adopt$ 9 ! climate ( ,egypt2 b we mu/ rememb] ! reticulat$ nature ( ! gr\nd-"w1 on :i* ! hair 0 fa/5$1 all[$ ! heat ( ! head to escape1 :ile ! hair effectually protect$ x f ! sun3 x is evid5t t no bett] cov]+ c\ld h be5 devis$1 & t x f> surpass$1 9 com=t & coolness1 ! mod]n turban40 ,accord+ to ,/[1 ! p]iwig 0 fir/ br\ght into ,engl& ab\t ! "t ( ! massacre ( ,/4 ,b>?olomew 7#aegb71 b ! p]uke is m5tion$ 9 a w>drobe acc\nt 9 ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,vi4 ,ab\t #aeie1 wigs 8_h become s mu* ! fa%ion t x 0 dang]\s = *ildr5 to w&] out ( sight ( _! p>5ts or att5dants1 z x 0 a common practice to entice !m into "s private place & deprive !m ( _! hair = ! manufacture ( su* articles40--,plan*e4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,*>les ,,ii4 ! l>ge wigs 7su* z are %[n 9 ,knell]'s portrait ( ! ,duke ( ,m>lbor\gh7 7 introduc$1 & cont9u$ to increase 9 size till ! middle ( la/ c5tury4 ,conc]n+ prices1 ! foll[+ is int]e/+3--8,p]ukes10 says ,malcolm1 87 an highly important article 9 #agcd4 ,^? ( "r gray human hair 7 f\r gu9eas ea*2 light grizzle ties1 ?ree gu9eas2 & o!r col\rs 9 proportion1 to tw5ty-five %ill+s4 ,"r gray human hair p]ukes1 f two gu9eas to fifte5 %ill+s ea*1 :i* 0 ! price = d>k ones2 & "r gray bob p]ukes1 two gu9eas & a-half to fifte5 %ill+s1 ! price ( d>k bobs4 ,^? mix$ ) horsehair 7 mu* l[]4 ,x w be obs]v$1 f ! gradations 9 price1 t real gray hair 0 mo/ 9 fa%ion1 & d>k ( no e/imation40 ,! names ( wigs1 z may be judg$ f ! =ego+1 possess deep int]e/ = ! trade1 & x is !re=e wor? :ile to allude to !m4 ,9 ! reign ( ,que5 ,anne1 9 addition to v long & =mally curl$ p]ukes1 are m5tion$ 8black rid+ wigs10 8bag wigs10 & 8nightcap wigs40 ,! fam\s battle ( ,ramilies1 9 ! same reign introduc$ ! 8,ramilie wig10 ) a long gradually dim9i%+ plait$ tail1 call$ ! 8,ramilie tail10 :i* 0 ti$ ) a great b[ at ! top & a small] "o at ! bottom4 ,9 ! reign ( ,george ,,ii41 ! 8tye-wig0 & ! 8pigtail-wig0 h to be add$ to ! catalogue1 & at ! same "t ! revival ( ! 8bob-wig10 fir/ he>d ( 9 #afhd1 or "o t is call$ aft] x1 is also spok5 (4 ,! 8bob-wig0 is ?us describ$3--8,i cut (f my hair & procur$ a br[n bob p]iwig ( ,wild+ ( ! same col\r1 ) a s+le r[ ( curls j r\nd ! bottom1 :i* ,i wore v nicely comb$ & )\t p[d]40 ,inde$1 8! nom5clature ( wigs is v ample10 says an au?ority on ! subject1 8a complete sy/em ( classification might be adopt$1 & g5us & species discrim9at$ ) ! greate/ nicety3 !re 7 ,wigs ,milit>y1 ,legal1 ,ecclesia/ical1 & ,infantile10 room be+ f\nd only = a few v>ieties1 viz43-- ,p]ruque bonnet4 ,p]ruque trois m>teaux4 ,p]ruque nuds4 ,p]ruque ronde4 ,p]ruque po9tue4 ,p]ruque naissante4 ,p]ruque deux queues4 ,p]ruque tonsure4 ,p]ruque la brigadire4 ,p]ruque de l',abb4 ,p]ruque b\d94 ,p]ruque papillons4 ,p]ruque deux m>teaux4 ,p]ruque b\rse4 ,wigs 7 fir/ worn by b>ri/]s ab\t #afgj1 to :i* opposition 0 made by ! judges1 & "s ( ! lead]s 7 n all[$ to plead 9 _! new head-ge>4 ,9 ! "t ( ,james ,,ii4 wigs increas$ 9 size1 becom+ /ill l>g] 9 ! foll[+ reign 7,william ,,iii471 :5 wigs 7 adopt$ by all classes1 b among ^? ( humble /ation !y 7 mod]ate 9 size & price4 ,g5tlem5's wigs1 h[ev]1 7 l>ge & full1 requir+ mu* hair 9 _! manufacture4 ,x is record$ t 9 #agjj a sum ( #fj 0 giv5 = a c\ntry girl's hair1 & t ! grey hair ( an old woman deceas$ sold = ne>ly z mu*--! ord9>y price ( a fir/-class wig be+ at t "t =ty p\nds4 ,full-bottom$ wigs 7 inv5t$1 x is said1 by ,duvill]1 = ! purpose ( hid+ "s natural defect 9 ! %\ld]s ( ! ,dauph94 ,*ildr5 wore wigs1 or ! natural hair 0 curl$ to look l !m4 ,ar*bi%op ,tillotson 0 ! fir/ ( our prelates :o wore a wig4 ,/eele's wig co/ z mu* z =ty gu9eas4 ,dean ,swift _h a f9e wig = /ate occasions1 & 8,colley ,cibb]'s wig1 9 :i* he play$ a fav\rite "*1 0 ( su* noble proportions t x 0 br\ght ^u ! /age 9 a s$an by two *airm540 ,! tie-wig 7! long-curl$ wig abridg$7 0 n consid]$ c\rt dress4 8,h[ to we> a wig10 says ! au?or ( 8,tri*ocosmos10 80 "p ( ! education ( a man ( ! _w1 n to be le>n$ f books4 ,^? :o "k :at wit*craft !re is 9 h&l+ a fan1 :at dext]ity 9 ! #8nice conduct ( a cl\d$ cane1' w imag9e ! wits & g5tlem5 ( old did n suff] ! wig to ov]%ad[ _! temples ) p]petual gloom1 l ! wrea? ( smoke :i* ov]hangs our ,mod]n ,babylon4 ,& _m a c\ntry squire mu/ h tri$ 9 va9 to cat* ! "r toss ( ! head2 to sport a playful hum\r 9 ^? crisp curls2 or to acquire ! l(ty c>riage ( ! =etop1 or ! significant trifl+ ) "s obtrusive lock2 & felt z awkw>d 9 8 new wig z a tailor on horseback1 or a fat ald]man ) a dress sword dangl+ betwe5 8 legs40 ,natural col\r$ wigs 7 worn till ab\t #agad1 :5 x became fa%ionable to adopt blea*$ hair1 :i* soon fad$1 !n wigs 7 p[d]$4 ,x is said t wigs ( peculi> excell5ce co/ z mu* z #adj ea*1 & x is on record t 8a petition f ! ma/] p]uke-mak]s ( ,london & ,we/m9/]1 pres5t$ to ! k+ 7,george ,,iii47 9 #agfc1 po9ts out ! great decl9e ( _! use to h tak5 place at t "t40 ,9 ?is memorial !y compla9 ( ! public we>+ _! own hair1 & say1 8,t ?is mode1 p]nici\s en\gh 9 itself to _! trade1 is r5d]$ excessively m s1 by sw>ms ( ,fr5* hairdress]s already e/abli%$ 9 ^? cities1 & daily increas+40 ,!atrical wigs w supply _m capital illu/rations ( ^? t 7 worn by notable p]sonages 9 =m] ye>s1 & a ramble ?r\gh ! ,national ,gall]y1 ,hampton ,c\rt ,palace1 & o!r public z well z private picture gall]ies w be f\nd highly in/ructive to wig-mak]s ( ! pres5t day4 ,! *ief art n[ consi/s 9 mak+ wigs s closely to imitate ,nature z to defy detection1 & ^? :o succe$ 9 do+ s may well be class$ among ! mo/ tal5t$ m5 9 ! pr(ession4 ,wigs & scalps w always be worn1 & probably !re is a good trade to be done 9 su* manufactures n[1 b great att5tion to e detail is necess>y s z to )/& ! ke5 glance ( scrut9y4 ,i w n[ apply myself to ! task be=e me1 b consid] t a few g5]al obs]vations are necess>y & important be=e ent]+ into ! te*nicalities ( ! art4 ,:5 tak+ an ord] = a lady's or g5tleman's wig1 obs]ve ! %ape ( ! head1 ca/ ( c\nt5ance1 & age ( ! p]son :o int5ds we>+ x4 ,note :e!r ! head is long1 broad1 or high1 z a correct %ape ought to be ma9ta9$ by ! wig-mak]1 :o1 9 ?is & o!r respects1 %\ld be an arti/4 ,obs]ve also :e!r ! face is long1 r\nd1 or oval1 because ! arrangem5t ( ! hair on ! =ehead & sides ( ! head has mu* to d 9 pres5t+ a good appe>ance4 ,if ?is passes obs]vation & comm5t1 ! result may be consid]$ satisfactory2 b %\ld !re be 8a some?+0 objectionable :i* causes rem>k1 f9d out :at x is1 or :]e ! fault lies1 & ei!r remove or alt] x if possible4 ,aga91 notice ! c\nt5ance2 d n put 9 contra/ to an ag$ face hair t is only suitable to y\?4 ,let ! hair be consi/5t bo? 9 col\r & quantity ) ! age ( ! we>]1 &1 above all1 endeav\r to avoid any?+ extravagant or out ( place4 ,a g5tleman's wig mu/ be cut & trimm$ aft] x is made1 to adapt x to ! /yle & ta/e ( ! we>]2 x ought to fit easily 9 e "p2 & :]e spr+s are1 no undue pressure %\ld be all[$ to exi/4 ,:ile ! g5]al appe>ance has to be well consid]$1 ! com=t ( ! we>] mu/ always be kept 9 view4 ,! read] is1 d\btless1 fully aw>e t baldness is n conf9$ to age1 = "s m5 lose _! hair e>ly 9 life4 ,y may1 )\t mu* tr\ble1 f9d a bald-head$ man at ?irty1 & x is p]haps z easy to discov] a man at sixty ) a fairly good head ( hair4 ,all classes are likely to be m or less tr\bl$ ) baldness1 = x makes its m>k 9 a v>iety ( ways4 ,sometimes ! hair rec$es f ! br[1 giv+ ! appe>ance ( a v high =ehead1 at o!r times x only attacks ! cr[n4 ,!n1 aga91 ! :ole ( ! top "p ( ! head is left b>e1 :i* n unfrequ5tly ext5ds to ! occiput beh9d4 ,a p>tial baldness requires m]ely a scalp :i* may1 accord+ to ! circum/ances ( ! case1 be ei!r l>ge or small1 b :5 ! baldness is ext5sive1 a wig w be f\nd ! mo/ conv5i5t & suitable head-cov]+4 ,scalps are consequ5tly made 9 a v>iety ( %apes & sizes2 ! m\nt+s are equally v>iable1 & ! me?od adopt$ = hold+ !m firmly 9 position admits ( great +5uity4 ,"s scalps are m\nt$ ) galloon1 net1 & spr+s2 o!rs h a metallic-spr+ atta*m5t1 :i* s5sibly1 ?\gh n uncom=tably1 grips ! head1 :ile ano!r mode ( fa/5+ is by means ( 8p5knife spr+s0 or clasps4#ai 7,^! op5 z ! "n indicates1 & be+ clos$1 a small portion ( ! gr[+ hair is %ut 9 or clasp$ at ! same "t47 ,"s scalps1 :5 made = ! top ( ! head & cr[n h1 9 addition1 a /rip ( galloon1 :i*1 be+ cov]$ ) hair1 easily adapts itself to ! l[] "p ( ! back ( ! head4 ,by an arrangem5t ( ?is "* a scalp _c possibly g =w>d on to ! =ehead ( ! we>]4 ,scalps :5 made v light & delicate1 & int5d$ = a small-siz$ pat* ^u ! upp] portion ( ! head1 & sometimes ! cr[n1 are fix$ only ) gum1 a gummy sub/ance sold = ! purpose1 or dia*ylon4 ,?is gossam]-l scalp admits ( v sup]ior "w 7knott$71 :ile ! m\nt+1 if requir$1 %\ld be ( ! lighte/ possible description4 ,:]e /r5g? & durability are conc]n$1 probably no?+ c be bett] ?an a well-sewn1 wov5 scalp or wig2 b :5 art /eps 9 to closely imitate nature1 & attempts to defy ! ke5 glance ( scrut9y1 !n bo? s+le & d\ble knott+ are br\ght into requisition4 ,?is pres5ts a m natural appe>ance1 ( c\rse1 & ?\gh ! co/ is increas$1 ! "w is n s la/+4 ,9 wig & scalp mak+ !re is pl5ty ( scope = ability1 +5uity1 & ta/e1 = to insure success v mu* is left to ! judgm5t ( ! mak]1 & to ! c>efulness & discretion ( ! we>]1 s z to prev5t 8 8secret0 be+ discov]$4 ,i w give "s work+ directions1 ) suitable illu/rations1 z ,i proce$1 b = ! pres5t ,i am *iefly conc]n$ 9 impress+ c]ta9 lead+ po9ts or features ^u ! m9d ( ! le>n]1 z success w greatly dep5d ^u /rict att5tion to m9ute details4 ,( c\rse1 c>eful measurem5t is all important1 = no matt] h[ well ! "w may be done1 if x proves to be a misfit1 disappo9tm5t & annoyance1 to say ! lea/1 w surely be felt by ! p>ties conc]n$4 ,besides1 a mi/ake ( ?is k9d is likely to prejudice ! m9d ( ! cu/om]1 & ano!r article 7h[ev] well-made7 might n1 p]haps1 be receiv$ ) fav\r2 !re=e1 be exact4 ,i wi% n[ to direct att5tion to ! illu/ration :i* appe>s on ! next page & to ! foll[+ directions = measurem5t4 ,no4 #a4--,) a tape measure asc]ta9 ! circumf]5ce ( ! head4 ,no4 #b4--,measure f ! c5tre ( ! =ehead 7:]e ! hair %\ld be7 to ! nape ( ! neck4 ,no4 #c4--;,asc]ta9 ! di/ance f e> to e> across ! =ehead 7see ! l[] dott$ l9e74 ,no4 #d4--,measure f e> to e> ov] ! top 7or highe/7 "p ( ! head4 ,no4 #e4--,note h[ _m in*es x is f temple to temple1 r\nd ! back ( ! head4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,^! directions are simple en\gh & only require c>eful att5tion2 be v exact 9 writ+ d[n ! figures1 & obs]ve ! =mation ( ! head4 ,( c\rse1 all ^! measurem5ts are n want$ = a scalp 7"s scalps at all ev5ts71 b ! diff]5t k9ds ( "w are s intimately associat$ t x is difficult to make any v m>k$ di/9ction "h ^u ! subject4 ,besides us+ a tape measure1 x w be z well to cut out a pap] patt]n = a scalp4 ,an exp]t might say !re is no necessity = do+ bo?1 b ,i am n address+ myself to ! advanc$ m5 9 ! trade1 :o d n /& 9 ne$ ( assi/ance f me4 ,i direct my rem>ks m p>ticul>ly to appr5tices1 improv]s1 & to beg9n]s 9 g5]al4 ,to !m ,i say--y _c be too p>ticul>1 !re=e d n sp>e y\rself a little extra tr\ble1 z y may probably reap advantage f x be=e ! job is f9i%$4 ,a pap] patt]n = a scalp comes 9 v useful at times1 m especially :5 !re are "s intricacies to be not$4 ,x ne$ n be exactly a patt]n1 b /ill x %\ld unmi/akably %[ ! outl9e ( ! pat* :i* is to be cov]$4 ,hav+ tak5 ! dim5sions1 !n1 ! next ?+ is to cut (f a piece ( hair = ! col\r4 ,y\r cu/om] %\ld be advis$ to we> 8 hair a conv5i5t l5g? = ! purpose 9 view1 7say7 f two & a-half to ?ree & a-half in*es long4 ,fa%ion1 ( c\rse1 has mu* to d ) ! l5g? ( m5's hair1 b y _c make a wig or scalp ) hair s prepo/]\sly %ort z is worn by _m at ! pres5t "t--t is out ( ! "q4 ,! real hair z well z ! 8false0 %\ld be suffici5tly long to all[ ( "o comb9+ ) ! o!r4 ,!re ought n to be any division1 & ! l5g? ( ! hair mu/1 z a consequ5ce1 be tak5 into consid]ation4 ,:e!r a cr[n is to be put 91 or a cr[n & p>t+1 %\ld next engage att5tion2 also1 :e!r ! p>t+ is to be 9 ! c5tre1 on ! "r1 or left side2 if x is to be sk9 or transp>5t2 & :at k9d ( f\ndation4 ,^! prelim9>ies be+ arrang$1 ,i w proce$ ) ! mak+ ( a scalp4 ,! scalp y are to make is )\t a pat5t p>t+1 b ) a cr[n ei!r ( silk or sk94 ,if any p>t+ is to be made on ?is scalp1 x %\ld n be cle>ly def9$1 b :e!r x be =m$ ) weft or 8knott$10 ! hair ought to be set clos] ?an x is else:]e4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 w be allud$ to lat] on4 ,%\ld a r n>r[ scalp be all t is requir$1 & ! we>]'s hair ?ick en\gh1 a p>t+ c\ld well be made ^u ! head1 "s ( ! natural hair be+ tra9$ to comb ov] & all[$ to m+le ) ! hair ( ! scalp4 ,no?+ c\ld be bett] ?an an arrangem5t ( ?is k9d1 :]e x is possible to adopt x4 ,att5tion mu/ also be paid to ! 8set0 ( ! hair ^u ! br[2 if all[$ to rema9 9 slight disord] p]haps t w\ld be ! bett] way to we> x4 ,at all ev5ts1 a 8wiggy0 & cl\dy aspect %\ld be avoid$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,! m\nt repres5t$ above is1 z ,i be=e /at$1 = a scalp ) a cr[n1 b )\t a pat5t p>t+4 ,9 ref]5ce to m\nt+1 detail$ in/ructions h frequ5tly be5 giv51 :i* ,i ne$ n "h repeat4 ,take a clean1 smoo?1 m\nt+ block1 & ) a blacklead p5cil c>efully m>k ! size & =m ( ! "w tak5 9 h&4 ,hav+ done ?is1 comm5ce at ! back by tack+ on ! galloon 7:i* %\ld be a little wid] ?an t ord9>ily us$ = fronts1 b&s1 c471 & ) x foll[ ! l9e m>k$ until ! ends meet4 ,arrange ?is s z to h half an in* or m to sp>e at bo? ( ! ends4 ,( c\rse1 9 foll[+ ! p5cil m>ks ) ! galloon1 y h f\nd x necess>y to use po9ts s z to keep ! %ape1 draw+ ! galloon at ! same "t mod]ately tight4 ,y are n[ to hold ! free ends betwe5 ! ?umb & f+] ( ! left h& close d[n ^u ! block1 :ile y /it* !m ?r\gh & ?r\gh1 s t :5 done !y may be close & firm4 ,op5 ! ends1 g5tly hamm] ! sewn "p1 & take a few /it*es to keep ! ends 9 place4 ,y are n[ to ba/e :]e x has j be5 sewn1 obs]v+ to ma9ta9 an ev5 r\ndness s z to fit nicely at ! back ( ! head4 ,come n[ to ! front & =m ! peak ^u ! =ehead1 b x %\ld be m r\nd$ & less po9t$ ?an is indicat$ 9 ! engrav+4#bj ,! sides are to be ba/$ out z %[n1 & to imp>t a graceful curve1 po9ts are to be driv5 into ! c5tre ( ! block & ! galloon drawn inw>d z requir$4 ,i w n[ assume t ! outl9e ( ! scalp is =m$2 ! galloon mod]ately tight & firmly held 9 place--& t x is ready = o!r matt]s to be proce$$ )4 ,sew a piece ( galloon f temple to temple2 affix ano!r piece at ! sides 7across ! top7 & !n connect ! front & back toge!r4 ,a glance at ! illu/ration %[s cle>ly :at is to be done4#ba ,spr+s are n[ to be atta*$1 & = ?is purpose take a piece ( wat*-spr+ suffici5tly long to rea* f ! =ehead ne>ly to ! cr[n1 or q to ! edge ( ! cr[n if consid]$ necess>y4 ,two o!r spr+s are to be prep>$ ext5d+ f ! side angles to jo9 ! c5tre "o4 ,at ?is po9t !y are n to ov]lap1 b mu/ fit ev5ly & flat4 ,"h1 aga91 a ref]5ce to ! engrav+ w indicate my mean+4 ,x may be necess>y to put two spr+s at ! back also1 especially if ! scalp be r l>ge1 o!rwise1 ! pat5t cr[n might be f\nd suffici5t4 ,! spr+s are to be some:at flatt5$1 s z to fit ! m\nt exactly1 = unless ?is be att5d$ to1 ! scalp w n lie ^u ! head z x %\ld d4 ,!y mu/ n[ be fil$ or gr\nd (f at ! ends1 & tipp$ ) kid1 ?9 lea!r1 or p>*m5t1 ! :ole neatly cov]$ ) galloon1 & !n sewn 9 _! prop] places4 ,! next ?+ is to put on "s silk net1 c>efully sew+ x all r\nd ! inn] m>g9 ( ! scalp4 ,cut (f1 leav+ an edge :i* mu/ n ext5d beyond ! out] l9e ( ! galloon4 ,fix ?is 9 place by means ( ! 8h]r+-bone0 /it*1 & sew ! net to all ! o!r edges ( ! galloon & spr+s4 ,i may obs]ve t x is int5d$ to cov] ?is m\nt ) weft1 b 7 x to be 8knott$10 ! edges ( ! net %\ld be left r long1 !n turn$ 91 & firmly sewn to ! out] l9e z previ\sly in/ruct$4 8,p5-knife0 spr+s %\ld n[ be atta*$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,!y are1 z be=e /at$1 made to op51 & ^u be+ clos$1 a small portion ( ! natural hair is %ut 9 ) :at might be t]m$ ! blade4 ,"h is ! repres5tation ( a 8p5knife0 spr+ 7op571 & x is drawn ! exact size4 ,! scalp n[ 9 c\rse ( manufacture w\ld require ?ree or f\r ( ^! fa/5+s1 namely1 "o on ea* side t[>ds ! front1 & "o or two at ! back 9 conv5i5t situations4 ,obs]ve t ^! spr+s are int5d$ to lie z flat z possible1 be+ made ) a slight concavity1 :i* %\ld g next ! head4 ,!y mu/1 consequ5tly1 be arrang$ z 8rights0 & 8lefts40 ,take a piece ( galloon ! wid? ( ! spr+ 7t :i* is us$ = ! m\nt w probably answ] ! purpose71 turn 9 ! ends1 & sew ov] & ov] "r r\nd1 except :]e ! blade %uts 94 ,9 ord] t y may prop]ly secure ! cov]+1 notice ?ree small holes 9 ! spr+1 ?r\gh :i* /it*es %\ld be made4 ,^! details hav+ be5 att5d$ to1 ! spr+s are to be atta*$ to ! m\nt1 &1 ,i ne$ sc>cely say1 !y ought to be secure4 ,! hair is n[ to be put on1 & ! weft ,i presume is ready4 ,correct judgm5t1 toge!r ) ! requirem5ts ( ! "w1 %\ld1 to a c]ta9 ext5t at lea/1 guide y4 ,z ! r[s ( weft are arrang$1 s ! hair w 8set10 & ?is %\ld always be borne 9 m9d4 ,a prop]ly made & well-dress$ g5tleman's wig is a 8/udy10 f :i* mu* is to be le>nt1 & "y m5 9 ! trade %\ld nev] all[ su* +5i\s productions to pass unnotic$4 ,( ! 8cutt+ & dress+ a g5tleman's wig0 ,i %all speak pres5tly1 & m]ely allude to x "h = ! purpose ( %[+ ! importance :i* atta*es to a prop] arrangem5t ( hair 9 ! fir/ in/ance1 :e!r x be wov5 or 8knott$40 ,rememb]1 z a rule1 t 9 g5tlem5's wig-mak+ ! hair %\ld always be dress$ to ! face1 b ?is effect _c be produc$ )\t c>eful att5tion to ! r[s ( weft1 or 8knots40 ,h[ev]1 9 ?is in/ance suppose y adopt ! foll[+ plan4 ,comm5ce sew+ on ! weft at ! back1 at ! l[] edge ( ! galloon1 & cont9ue x all r\nd2 g r\nd aga91 sew+ ! weft mod]ately close to ! fir/ r[4 ,x is important t ^! %\ld be well & neatly put on4 ,cont9ue sew+ till y come to "o ( ! angul> places :i* is to be fill$ up1 be>+ 9 m9d ! prec$+ obs]vations4 ,!n pass on 7)\t cutt+ ! weft7 to ano!r & ano!r1 till all ! corn]s are dispos$ (4 ,if ?is be judici\sly execut$1 y w !n h a 8cle> field0 to "w ^u1 & may g on sew+ ! weft r\nd & r\nd until y approa* ! cr[n1 :5 ! r[s mu/ be a little clos] toge!r4 ,:ile !re is yet pl5ty ( room1 take ! cr[n 7silk or sk9 ,i am suppos+ x to be71 sew ! edges1 z is done :5 putt+ 9 a pat5t p>t+1 & fix neatly1 yet firmly1 9 its prop] position4 ,!n g on ) ! weft1 & f9i% (f ^u ! cr[n1 close to ! hair4 ,hav+ done ) ! ne$le1 ! "w is n[ to be press$ 7& "s ( ^! obs]vations apply to wig-mak+ 9 g5]al71 ab\t :i* y mu/ ne$s be c>eful4 ,! hair employ$ 9 ?is description ( manufacture 7%ort crop hair7 is specially curl$ = ! purpose1 & 9 mak+ g5tlem5's wigs1 hair ( two1 ?ree1 & sometimes f\r diff]5t l5g?s is us$1 s z to avoid cutt+1 if possible4 ,x /&s to reason t ! hair put at ! top ( a wig or scalp %\ld be long] ?an t 9 ! neck1 :ile at ! sides ! hair requir$ is probably ( a l5g? some?+ betwe5 ! two4 ,!re=e1 :5 pur*as+ ! hair1 calculate ! l5g? be=e-h&1 or1 %\ld x be 9 /ock1 cut x (f at ! roots be=e weav+ or 8knott+10 if x is f\nd necess>y to d s4 ,9 press+ & dress+ ?is scalp1 ,i w assume t m]ely ! po9ts ( ! l[] hair are to be remov$1 !re=e pu% back ) a comb ! same z ?\gh y 7 ab\t cutt+ a lady's hair1 & remove ! ends ) a %>p razor4 ,ev5 ?is mu/ be done 9 a p>ticul> mann]1 & is to be produc$ by a k9d ( slid+ motion4 ,let me tell y ! object :i* is to be atta9$1 t y may ! m readily und]/& :at & h[ to d x4 ,! natural ends ( hair are f9] & m po9t$ ?an !y w\ld be if cut4 ,!y curl & comb9e m readily if left 9 _! normal condition1 ) :i* ord9>y cutt+ is likely to int]f]e3 !re=e ! employm5t ( a razor is to make ! po9ts resemble ! orig9al z ne> z possible4 ,press+1 y c n[ p]ceive1 is equally important1 & %\ld be done fir/4 ,y mu/ press ! "w1 b n ! hair--t is1 ! curl2 = if y d t1 ! job w be spoilt be=e x leaves y\r h&s1 t's all6 ,!re=e1 press c>efully2 incl9e ea* section ( ! hair z x leaves y\r f+]s to take up its prop] position2 d n injure ! curl 9 ! lea/1 & endeav\r to imp>t to x a natural & becom+ appe>ance4 ,ano!r way ( fix+ ! scalp is by means ( a metallic spr+ 7see ,fig4 #cf71 & x c easily be adapt$ to ! purpose4 ,! galloon :i* passes across ! top c\ld ei!r be disp5s$ )1 or arrang$ s t ! spr+1 :5 cov]$1 passes along unse54 ,! front ( x c\ld easily be made to come =w>d1 :ile ! corn] spr+s 7ei!r front or back7 mu/ be r$uc$1 or o!rwise design$ s z to keep ! scalp well 9 %ape4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,^! spr+s1 ,i may obs]ve1 are made to g across ! top ( ! head1 :ile o!rs are con/ruct$ to g at ! back1 j bel[ ! b9d ( ! hat4 ,x is ( ! =m] description t ,i n[ speak4 ,= mak+ ei!r a scalp or wig ) a metallic spr+ x is be/ to keep "s ( ^! spr+s 9 /ock1 & :5 tak+ an ord] try !m on1 s z to get "o t w be easy & com=table4 ,heads v>y 9 size1 s d ! spr+s2 !re=e1 ?is mode ( fitt+ a spr+ is ess5tial4 ,t "p :i* ext5ds f front to back is movable1 & c be readily adju/$1 :ile ! beh9d "p may be brok5 (f at pleasure1 ! end1 ( c\rse1 be+ fil$ & cov]$ 9 ! usual way4 ,) ^! prelim9>ies arrang$1 take a long piece ( galloon1 fa/5 on to a giv5 po9t 7say ! front71 & wrap r\nd to ! end1 firm1 smoo?1 & regul>1 hold+ ! spr+ at ! same "t 9 ! left h&2 ! upp] edge ( ! galloon :i* is on ! spr+ be+ cov]$ ) ! l[] edge ( t :i* is free4 ,cont9ue ?is f "o end to ! o!r & sew firmly4 ,n[ d ! side-spr+ 9 ! same way2 cov] neatly ! c5tre at ! top ( ! head1 & sew :]ev] necess>y4 ,( c\rse1 ! spr+ w by ?is arrangem5t project at ! sides1 & ext5d d[n t[>ds ! e>s4 ,all ?is "p1 !n1 mu/ be cov]$ ) weft1 ! hair well 8set10 press$ =w>d1 & made to comb9e ) ! natural side hair ( ! we>]4 ,! m\nt+ already %[n is capable ( num]\s modifications1 b ! g5]al directions rema9 ! same4 ,! =m may be enl>g$ or dim9i%$1 x c be oval-%ap$ or r\nd 7or ?ree-corn]$ if ne$s be71 nev]!less1 all ! details mu/ be c>efully att5d$ to if good workman%ip be desir$4 ,baldness is n p>ticul> to age1 nei!r does x assume any def9ite =m2 x v>ies ^u diff]5t individuals4 ,z a consequ5ce ! size & %ape ( scalps v>y consid]ably1 & ! class ( "w is regulat$ n unfrequ5tly by ! purse4 ,^! deviations f any fix$ rule1 !re=e1 af=d ample scope = ! display ( +5uity & ta/e on ! "p ( ! bo>dsman2 & to be a good wig-mak] is a /rong recomm5dation to fir/-class situations4 ,clev] workm51 z ,i h /at$ be=e1 d n /& 9 ne$ ( in/ruction1 & 7 ,i to (f] x "s (f5ce might reasonably be tak52 b ) appr5tices & improv]s1 z well z ^? 9 bus9ess ^: exp]i5ce 9 ! wig-mak]'s art is limit$1 ! case is alt]$1 & if ,i c be ! means ( help+ !m my task w n h be5 und]tak5 9 va94 ,to manufacture a scalp ( a l description b ) a silk or sk9 p>t+ & cr[n ins]t$1 proce$ z foll[s3--,m>k ! outl9e ( ! m\nt ^u a clean block & put on ! galloon z be=e4 ,note ! wid? & l5g? ( ! p>t+1 :i* %\ld always be plac$ on ! left side except :5 ord]$ o!rwise1 & arrange s t ! c5tre ( ! cr[n w fall into its prop] place4 ,hav+ ba/$ ! galloon :i* m>ks ! %ape or outl9e ( ! scalp1 y c !n atta* ! piece :i* ext5ds f front to back1 & a cross piece "r 9 front1 if necess>y 7see illu/ration74#bb ,notice ! wid? ( ! p>t+1 & 9 reg>d to ?is portion ( ! "w1 deal ) ! m\nt z in/ruct$ 9 m\nt+ a front1 pay+ great att5tion to ! edge :]e x jo9s ! =ehead4 ,ab\t ?is y _c be too p>ticul>4 ,n[ take ! galloon & drive a po9t 9 ! end ( x1 ne> to "o ( ! ba/+-/it*es1 & conduct x upw>ds t[>ds ! cr[n2 =m ! outl9e ( ! cr[n ) x1 & return to ! fell[ ba/+-/it* :]e x is to be cut (f4 ,i w n[ assume t y h ! exact =m ( ! p>t+ & cr[n1 ! galloon be+ held 9 position by means ( po9ts driv5 into x at int]vals4 ,sew ! ends 9 _! places1 & ba/e ! galloon1 mak+ a neat circle at ! cr[n4 ,"h ! galloon w become puck]$2 ! puck]s are to be p9*$ toge!r1 sewn ?r\gh & ?r\gh1 & made to lie z flat z possible4 ,hav+ done all ?is1 :at1 let me ask 79 ord] t ,i may be cle>ly und]/ood71 is ! object 9 view8 ,x is to imp>t neatness to ! "w1 & to conceal ! m>g9s ( ! p>t+ & cr[n2 x r5d]s ! scalp m durable1 & :5 (f ! block ! edges ( ! p>t+1 c41 are neatly conceal$4 ,! net & spr+s are to be put on1 !n ! hair1 & all f9i%$ (f 9 a prop] mann]4 ,scalps ( ?is description c be held 9 _! places by means ( a cem5t made & sold = ! purpose 7to :i* ,i %all pres5tly allude71 b ,i _c help ?9k+ t1 aft] all1 spr+s are pref]able4 ,a bett] class ( "w is done ^u gauze1 & ! be/ ( all is made ^u human hair f\ndations4 ,o!r mat]ials = ! purpose1 ( an inf]ior description1 are us$1 to :i* ,i ne$ n "h ref]1 z ! two k9ds nam$ are suffici5t = my purpose4 ,! gauze is v f9e 9 texture1 & c be m\nt$ ) galloon or n1 j z x may be consid]$ necess>y4 ,( c\rse1 galloon af=ds additional /r5g? to ! article1 & if lightness be n ! *ief requisition1 ,i %\ld say t gauze scalps 7 m durable :5 m\nt$4 ,"h is an outl9e ( "o3-- ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,x w be se5 t !re is galloon all r\nd1 & to ! p>t+ & cr[n also4 ,a m\nt ( ?is "* c be design$ by omitt+ ! latt] altoge!r2 x c be made ) a cr[n only1 or1 ) a p>t+ 9 addition1 z %[n 9 ! diagram1#bc b 9 t case1 ! piece ( galloon :i* n[ m>ks a sep>ation betwe5 ! cr[n & p>t+ %\ld be omitt$4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 c\ld easily be manag$ by putt+ on ! galloon 9 ! way j previ\sly m5tion$4 ,a scalp ( ?is k9d c be m\nt$ ) :ite1 drab1 or o!r col\r$ galloon2 x might be knott$ ei!r on gauze or net1 ) a human hair f\ndation p>t+ & cr[n ins]t$4 ,inde$1 ! v>iations made 9 ?is description ( manufacture are ( a multif>i\s "*1 z may readily be p]ceiv$4 ,! mode ( atta*+ ^! scalps to ! head ( ! we>] is by means ( dia*ylon1 or1 :at is bett]1 ! ,pomade ,t\l\se1 an adhesive sub/ance easily s(t5$ by heat1 or else 8waf]s10 :i* are made /icky by a little moi/ure1 & us$ z desir$ by ! we>]4 ,scalps ) entire ,human ,hair ,f\ndations _c be excell$ = lightness & a natural appe>ance4 ,!y are made ( any size & patt]n1 ) p]fectly secur$ edges1 s t no galloon or spr+s are necess>y4 ,!y only require to be well & prop]ly atta*$ to ! block by means ( ba/+-/it*es1 & c>efully--,i might say arti/ically--knott$ all ov]1 ! cr[n1 or cr[n & p>t+1 be+ done z ! "w progresses4 ,"s exquisite pieces ( workman%ip are execut$ 9 ?is l9e by exp]t h&s1 _! productions be+ well qualifi$ to receive ! "n ( 8zephyr0 :i* has be5 giv5 to !m by c]ta9 manufactur]s4 ,! mode ( atta*m5t is ! same z t m5tion$ above1 by means ( cem5t or gum4 ,,*apt] ,,xi4 ,( ,g5tlem5's ,wigs1 & a few additional obs]vations !reon--,to make a /rong & durable ,wig ) wov5 ,hair ?r\gh\t--,m\nt+ a ,wig--,! ,metallic ,spr+ aga9--,v>i\s k9ds ( ,net us$--,caution aga9/ us+ too mu* ,hair--,sew+ on ! ,weft--,! ,cr[n made ) ,weft--,! ,p>t+ =m$ ) ,weft--,press+ ! ,"w--,( ,ela/ic ,spr+s--,! ,wig complet$4 ,x is n[ my int5tion to treat ( ,g5tlem5's ,wigs1 & ,i ?9k t1 s f> z g5]al rem>ks are conc]n$1 !re is b little to add to my =m] obs]vations on ! subject4 ,! approv$ me?od to be adopt$ = measur+ ! head1 toge!r ) o!r necess>y in/ructions1 h be5 already giv51 to :i* ! read] is ref]r$4 ,l e ?+ else1 g5tlem5's wigs admit ( consid]able v>iation1 & c be made to suit ! pockets ( all classes4 ,"s cu/om]s are /rictly economical2 !y d n s mu* c>e = appe>ances1 _! desire be+ to h a wig t %all be /rong1 durable1 & l[ 9 price4 ,su* m5 w we> a wig until x 8goes foxy0 7to use a trade phrase :i* fully expla9s my mean+74 ,"s p1 z !y advance 9 ye>s1 h an av]sion to putt+ on new ?+s2 pref]r+ t to :i* !y h become accu/om$ be=e a fre%1 &1 x may be1 m elaborate article4 ,?is applies to clo?+1 boots & %oes1 hats1 c41 & :y n to wigs8 ,!re=e1 9 execut+ an ord] = a p]son :o habitually we>s "o1 notice e detail associat$ ) t :i* he is we>+1 & deviate z little z possible !refrom4 ,y\ng] m51 :o lose _! hair e>ly 9 life1 require to be mu* m p>ticul>2 !y wi% to defy ! scrut9iz+ glances ( fri5ds & acqua9tances1 &1 z a consequ5ce1 seek to obta9 t :i* is light]1 & ( a m natural appe>ance4 ,price1 x may be1 is ( ! la/ consid]ation1 = no?+1 p]haps1 w\ld cause !m great] uneas9ess ?an to be told by "s indiscreet associate1 8,:y1 ,jack1 y've got a wig on40 ,m5 sometimes %[ _! ignorance by mak+ su* fooli% rem>ks2 & ,i allude to x "h to impress ^u ! read] h[ important x is to acquire ta/e1 good judgm5t1 & pr(ici5cy 9 bus9ess4 ,i said j n[ t 8g5tlem5's wigs admit ( consid]able v>iation10 & x is my int5tion to describe ! manufacture ( two k9ds1 namely1 ^? :i* are int5d$ to be worn = an indef9ite p]iod1 & o!rs t h to be r5ew$ m frequ5tly4 ,t is to say1 ! buy] ( a wig at ?irty-five %ill+s w\ld desire x to la/ = a long] "t ?an he :o pur*ases a m arti/ically made article at treble ! price1 & r5ews x e ye>4 ,i propose mak+ a wig 79 ! fir/ in/ance7 ( a /rong & durable "*1 & ) wov5 hair ?r\gh\t4 ,?is description1 ei!r ) or )\t pat5t cr[ns1 or pat5t p>t+s & cr[ns 7( :i* m h]eaft]71 ,i pref] mak+ ) weft1 because ,i ?9k !m less likely to %r9k ?an if !y 7 knott$4 ,knott$ "w = lightness1 weft = durability2 at lea/1 ?is is my op9ion ( ! matt]4 ,x w be = ! workman to decide :i* he consid]s pref]able1 &1 z ,i %all give in/ructions h[ to proce$ 9 ei!r case1 an opportunity w ?us be af=d$ him to judge ( ! correctness ( my ass]tion4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,take a clean m\nt+-block1 & hav+ y\r measurem5ts prop]ly writt5 out accord+ to previ\s in/ructions1 p5cil ! outl9e ( ! m\nt !reon4 ,be v p>ticul> 9 m>k+ details1 because ! galloon %\ld foll[ e l9e4 ,hav+ done ?is accurately1 comm5ce at ! back ( ! block 79 ! neck7 by driv+ a po9t or two ?r\gh ! galloon on ! left side ( ! c5tral l9e4 ,keep ! galloon fairly tight ) ! left h&1 foll[+ ! p5cill$ m>k+s1 & hamm] 9 po9ts :]ev] x is necess>y to d s4 ,i w n[ assume t y h c>efully made ! prop] curves at ! e> & temple1 & t y h rea*$ ! cut l9e on ! block :i* is 9 ! c5tre ( ! =ehead4 ,y h n[ to cont9ue ! galloon along ! p5cil m>k+s on ! opposite side ( ! block until ! place f :i* y />t$ is rea*$3 drive 9 ano!r po9t or two & cut (f ! galloon1 leav+ at lea/ half an in* to sp>e ^u ! block4 ,9 =ego+ in/ructions ^! 8free ends0 h also be5 allud$ to2 y are to p9* !m well toge!r1 &1 ) a ne$le & silk1 sew !m ?r\gh & ?r\gh4 ,! m\nt is n[ ready = 8ba/+10 b :]e y %\ld beg9 is optional1 & dep5ds 9 a great measure on ! /yle ( m\nt4 ,9 ?is in/ance1 ,i %\ld beg9 9 front2 next ! temples2 !n1 r\nd ab\t ! e>s4 ,! engrav+s :i* accompany ^! descriptions v cle>ly indicate details4#bd ,hav+ complet$ ?is "p ( ! "w1 y w f9d t 9 v>i\s places ! galloon is puck]$2 ^! y mu/ p9* toge!r1 sew ?r\gh & ?r\gh1 lay !m d[n q flat1 & a /it* or two w hold !m 9 _! places4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,! fir/ important /ep 9 mak+ a wig is n[ accompli%$4 ,to be q sure1 g ov] y\r measurem5ts aga9 7,i presume t y h done s be=e71 & satisfy y\rself ( _! exactness4 ,n[1 take ! galloon & put a portion ( x across ! top f front to back2 drive po9ts ?r\gh z be=e2 cut (f & sew neatly4 ,a simil> piece is to ext5d f e> to e> across ! cr[n1 :i* mu/ be treat$ 9 a simil> way4 ,hav+ done ?is1 take ! galloon aga91 &1 pass+ x "u ^! cross-pieces1 br+ ! ends to ! front1 pull x mod]ately tight1 & sew d[n ^u ! galloon4 ,?is piece =ms1 z x 71 a fillet r\nd ! head4 ,make a circle ) ! galloon1 ab\t two & a-half in*es f ! out] edges1 to =m ! cr[n2 9 ?is in/ance ,i int5d x to be made ( weft1 :i* w pres5tly dem& no little clev]ness on ! "p ( ! wig-mak]4 ,?is circle w h _m puck]s1 & !y are to be sewn d[n z be=e4 ,i h already allud$ to metallic spr+s1 & giv5 an illu/ration ( "o4#be ,! in/ructions !n pres5t$ to ! read]1 mu/ be borne 9 m9d :5 an ord] is giv5 = a wig1 & also :ile ! m\nt is progress+4 ,inde$1 ! spr+ ought to be plac$ 9 its appo9t$ position :5 ! m\nt is design$ ^u ! block1 & x %\ld n rea* 79 any in/ance7 to ! l[] edges ( ! galloon4 ,! spr+ is to be cov]$ z be=e1 put on ! block1 & sewn 9 its place4 ,) reg>d to o!r spr+s1 :i* are us$ to keep ! wig 9 %ape1 & !reby add to ! com=t ( ! we>]1 ! engrav+s1 toge!r ) previ\s in/ructions1 w no d\bt be f\nd suffici5t4 ,) ! =ego+ p>ticul>s1 & ! illu/rations :i* accompany !m1 ! le>n] c proce$ to m\nt & make a wig4 ,!re is1 9 ?is class ( "w1 mu* scope = +5uity & ?\ghtfulness1 & a well-made wig is n only cr$itable to ! mak]1 b displays an am\nt ( skilfulness :i*1 to _m1 is surpris+4 ,!re are v>i\s descriptions ( net us$ 9 wig-mak+ to meet all requirem5ts4 ,= patt]ns & prices ,i _c d bett] ?an ref] ! read] to ei!r ( ,messrs4 ,r4 ,hov5d5 ,sons' w>eh\ses4 ,to suit my own purposes1 ,i f9d x suffici5t to divide ! net into two classes1 viz41 silk & cotton1 ( :i*1 ,i ne$ sc>cely add1 ! latt] is ! *eape/2 b = /r5g? & durability1 z well z neatness1 ! =m] is mu* to be pref]r$4 ,! =m & size ( ! me% is n ( any p>ticul> mom5t if wov5 hair has to be us$2 b :5 ! hair is knott$ ! case is diff]5t1 &1 z ! le>n] becomes pr(ici5t 9 8 bus9ess1 he w und]/& :y "s p>ticul>ity 9 ! *oice ( net %\ld be exhibit$ by ! work]1 m especially :5 he takes delight 9 ! excell5ce ( 8 productions4 ,i h said be=e t 9 manufactur+ wigs1 ! 8set0 ( ! hair is all-important1 & 9 knott+1 ! =mation ( ! me% is1 d\btless1 consid]$ to h a great deal to d ) x4 ,! m\nt be+ divid$ into sections by means ( ! galloon :i* passes f front to back1 side to side1 etc41 enables ! mak] to sew on ! net 9 p>ts1 9 pref]5ce to "o entire :ole4 ,x is bett] to d ?is portion ( ! "w 9 sections1 n only because x is economical1 b x is mu* m conv5i5t4 ,comm5ce 7say7 at ! neck1 by sew+ ! net to ! inn]mo/ edge ( ! galloon1 & y may arrange to cov] "o or bo? ( ! back divisions4 ,hav+ sewn x along ! edge securely1 draw ! net fairly tight1 & /it* x to ! ne>e/ edge ( ! galloon :i* divides ! front f ! back4 ,cut (f1 b leave a suffici5t m>g9 to 8h]r+-bone0 aft]w>ds4 ,! front "p ( ! wig may be cov]$ 9 a simil> mann]4 ,all edges ( ! galloon mu/ be sewn to ! net4 ,i w n[ assume t ! m\nt is cov]$ except ! po9ts ne> ! e>s1 ! front peak1 &1 x may be1 ! nape ( ! neck4 ,! angul>1 or odd pieces ( net1 w d exce$+ly well = ^!4 ,all be+ sewn to e available spot1 ! net tight & firm 7n 8baggy0--by all means gu>d aga9/ t71 & free edges neatly 8h]r+-bon$0 to ! galloon1 ! m\nt is complete4 ,( c\rse1 ! hair select$ = ! top ( ! head1 ab\t ! front & cr[n %\ld be long] ?an x is at ! sides & 9 ! neck1 !re=e1 two or ?ree l5g?s ( hair mu/ be employ$4 ,a calculation ought to be made fir/1 & ! appe>ance1 age ( we>]1 & s =? tak5 into consid]ation4 ,z a rule1 ! mak]s ( wigs put too mu* hair 9 _! manufactures4 ,! light] !y are1 ! bett]4 ,/ill1 suffici5t hair mu/ be us$ to cov] !m1 & mu* dep5ds ^u ! f95ess ( ! weft4 ,weav+ "s ?irty y>ds ( weft is1 no d\bt1 consid]$ a task by _m1 b unless x is f9e ?r\gh\t1 m hair ?an necess>y is likely to be consum$4 ,an ord9>y weav] %\ld d at lea/ a y>d ( wig-weft an h\r1 b pr(ess$ weav]s w\ld d mu* m ?an t4 ,! l5g?s ( hair1 !n1 hav+ be5 decid$ ^u1 & _! apportionm5t made1 ! weft %\ld be complet$ )\t delay1 be=e ?is monoton\s "p ( ! job becomes t$i\s4 ,i said j n[ t too mu* hair is g5]ally us$1 = ,i h kn[n in/ances :]e ?ree ounces or m ( crop h be5 employ$1 9 place ( half1 or two-?irds ( t quantity1 :i* w\ld h suit$ ! job mu* bett]4 ,"h1 !n1 is ano!r cause ( ! 8wiggy0 appe>ance ( :i* "s p compla94 ,besides a g5]al improvem5t 9 ! article :i* adds consid]ably to ! ease & com=t ( ! we>]1 some?+ is sav$ 9 ! co/ ( mat]ial1 :i* mu/ n be lo/ sight (4 ,true1 ! weight ( hair dep5ds 9 a great measure ^u its l5g?1 b = ord9>y purposes x %\ld n be all[$ to exce$ two ounces1 if possible4 ,! weft be+ complet$1 beg9 sew+ on beh9d ! e>s & 9 ! neck2 = ?is use ! %orte/ hair4 ,! fir/ r[1 or1 ,i might say1 r[s1 ( weft %\ld1 z a matt] ( c\rse1 be v c>efully put on2 inde$1 all ! m>g9s or edges ought to receive ! greate/ att5tion1 = if ! hair be rais$ up & ! "w critically exam9$1 a %[ ( galloon w\ld /amp x z bad at ! v outset4 ,two1 if n ?ree r[s ( weft c be fir/ sewn on be=e fill+ 9 ! angles1 & :5 t is attempt$1 bo? sides mu/ be done uni=mly4 ,! angles 7or po9ts7 beh9d ! e>s hav+ be5 ?us treat$1 ! weft c be cont9u$ 9 l9es until ! neck "p is all fill$ 94 ,! sides %\ld n[ be att5d$ to1 &1 if ! hair be suffici5tly long1 ! front peak also4 ,comm5ce sew+ on ! weft close to t :i* is already on ! block1 & ?is w be some:]e beh9d ! e>4 ,/it* close to ! edge ( ! galloon1 &1 z be=e1 make two or ?ree r[s2 !n fill 9 ! two sides4 ,be> 9 m9d :at ,i h previ\sly said1 :i* 9 ?is connection is wor? repeat+4 ,x is ?is--rememb]1 z a rule1 t 9 g5tlem5's wig-mak+1 ! hair %\ld always be dress$ to ! face1 b ?is effect _c be produc$ )\t c>eful att5tion to ! r[s ( weft1 or 8knots40 ,!re=e1 arrange ! weft 9 su* a way z to ensure ?is desirable result1 & ! press+ iron w d ! re/4 ,i n[ assume t all ! angul> places h be5 fill$ up1 & t hair cov]s ! wig up to ! galloon :i* goes ar\nd ! head l a b& or fillet4 ,y n[ require to use ! second l5g? ( hair1 &1 probably x w d = bo? back & front2 if s1 g on sew+ sev]al r[s ( weft r\nd & r\nd at equal di/ances f ea* o!r4 ,n too close1 o!rwise ! wig is likely to be heavy1 & n v wide ap>t1 or else ! "w w be flimsy & unsub/antial4 ,%\ld y decide ^u us+ long] hair = ! top & sides ?an y d at ! back1 !n ! "w mu/ be done accord+ly1 by sew+ half-way--backw>ds & =w>ds4 ,! o!r half w h to be fill$ up 9 l mann]2 b1 :5 ! wig is tak5 (f ! block1 ! r[s %\ld appe> z ?\gh !y 7 sewn on 9 ! way j be=e m5tion$4 ,i w n[ imag9e t y are approa*+ ! "p m>k$ out = ! cr[n1 & if y make any fur!r diff]5ce 9 ! l5g?s ( hair to be employ$1 "h y may beg9 ) ! longe/1 & cont9ue up to ! circle res]v$ = ! cr[n4 ,! hair us$ 9 ?is place may be ( "o l5g? only1 & c be sewn r\nd & r\nd until ! l[] m>g9 ( ! cr[n galloon is cov]$ ) "o or two r[s ( weft4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,i previ\sly /at$ t 8,i propose mak+ a wig 79 ! fir/ in/ance7 ( a /rong & durable "*1 & ) wov5 hair ?r\gh\t20 b ,i h ano!r object 9 view besides /r5g? & durability4 ,9 all t ,i h writt5 ab\t 8,bo>d-"w10 ,i h address$ myself *iefly to appr5tices & improv]s1 & 9 ?is p>ticul> in/ance ,i wi%$ ! "y wig-mak] to possess himself ( a good specim5 ( 8 abilities4 ,inde$1 ,i am n[ ab\t sett+ a task :i* w try 8 +5uity1 & if successful 9 do+ x well1 he may ju/ly feel pr\d ( 8 "w4 ,x is to make a cr[n accord+ to ! illu/ration giv5 on ! prec$+ page4 ,a ref]5ce to ,fig4 #ci %[s a wig m\nt1 ) ! circul> space left = ! cr[n1 :i* is1 moreov]1 divid$ into f\r p>ts4 ,9 ea* ( ^! divisions ! weft 7c>efully & f9ely made = ! purpose7 is to be sewn accord+ to ! diagram ,fig4 #dj4 ,x w be se5 f ! cov]$ half t ea* r[ ( hair ov]laps ! o!r1 & ! greate/ nicety %\ld be ex]cis$ 9 work+ ! exact c5tre1 s z to conceal1 if possible1 e sign ( weft4 ,?is is to be done by adroit workman%ip1 assi/$ by a w>m iron & c>eful press+4 ,to make a p>t+ ) ! weft take a ne$leful ( :ite cotton1 m>k ! place = ! p>t+1 & ! wid? x is int5d$ to be4 ,simply make two /raight l9es f ! cr[n to ! temple1 ab\t an in* ap>t1 & on ! side ! p>t+ is worn4 ,hav+ done ?is1 rememb] t :5 sew+ on ! weft1 x is to be turn$ back = an in*1 & !n return$ aga91 s z to foll[ on 9 its prop] c\rse2 ^! turn+s & re-turn+s be+ necess>y 7#a7 to br+ ! r[s clos] toge!r1 & 7#b7 to make a division )\t %[+ ! net f\ndation4 ,( c\rse1 a cle> & di/9ct p>t+ mu/ n be attempt$ 9 ?is case1 b j su* a division z a hairdress] %\ld be able to make on a g5tleman's head ) a bru% only4 ,all be+ s f> complet$1 ! next ?+ to d is to press ! "w1 b n ! hair1 o!rwise ! curl w disappe>4 ,take a smoo?1 w>m1 press+ iron & beg91 say1 ^u ! left side1 ne>e/ ! face4 ,?is w be at "o ( ! angles1 or po9ts4 ,sep>ate ?ree or f\r r[s ( weft at a "t1 & ( a conv5i5t wid?1 s z to hold ! slip ( hair firmly betwe5 ! two =e-f+]s ( ! left h&4 ,damp ! weft only1 ) a small sponge1 or ! f+]1 at ! same "t incl9+ ! curl$ ends to ! face2 press1 lay ! curl flat & leave x undi/urb$4 ,9 l mann] ! :ole ( ! "w has to be treat$1 & :5 f9i%+ (f at ! cr[n1 see t its peculi> circul> turn or incl9ation is well pres]v$4 ,hav+ all[$ a little "t to elapse = all to get cold & 8set10 cut ! ba/+ /it*es1 & c>efully take ! wig (f ! block4 ,pull out all loose ?reads1 exam9e y\r "w1 & see t ev]y?+ is z x ought to be4 ,i h said t ! block = ?is k9d ( "w %\ld exce$ ! circumf]5ce ( ! head by half an in* or m2 ?is all[ance is necess>y1 z x insures an easy fit1 & provides to a c]ta9 ext5t = %r9k+4 ,besides1 %\ld x prove to be a fault1 x is "o easily got ov] by means ( an ela/ic spr+1 or spr+s4 ,^! spr+s are made ( diff]5t l5g?s2 b = a g5tleman's wig1 "o w\ld probably be two-&-a-half in*es long1 & x has to g at ! back ( ! neck4 ,take ! wig1 turn ! back "p inside out1 s z to get at ! l[] galloon easily4 ,cut a piece ( galloon ! same wid?1 & full an in* long] ?an ! spr+4 ,m>k ! c5tre1 & sew neatly 7bo? edges7 to ! l[] galloon1 s z to =m a cas+ = ! spr+4 ,! /it*+ %\ld n be cont9u$ to ! ends4 ,n[ take a ne$le ) d\bl$ silk & fix x to "o end ( ! spr+2 put ! head ( ! ne$le =emo/1 & pass x ?r\gh z ?\gh x 7 a bodk94 ,draw ! spr+ into position1 & firmly s[ fir/ "o end to ! wig1 & 7hav+ previ\sly atta*$ a second ne$le & silk to ! o!r end7 !n ! o!r4 ,! degree ( tightness requir$ mu/ be y\r guide1 bo? z to ! l5g? ( spr+ & am\nt ( ela/icity4 ,turn 9 ! free ends ( ! galloon & sew neatly z be=e1 until all is p]fectly cov]$4 ,%\ld a second spr+ be requir$1 x is to be plac$ above1 9 exactly ! same way1 ^u ! fillet or b& :i* goes ar\nd ! head4 ,! wig is aga9 to be put on ! block1 ! hair cut ) a razor1 by a k9d ( glid+ motion 7to tap] (f ! ends z mu* z possible71 bru%$ & dress$4 ,x is n[ ready = ! we>]1 & any o!r alt]ations 9 reg>d to trimm+1 etc41 c be done ^u ! head1 s z to adapt x to ! features4 ,,*apt] ,,xii4 ,( ,g5tlem5's ,wigs 7cont9u$7--,diff]5ce betwe5 ,wov5 & ,knott$ ,wigs consid]$--,in/ructions = ,mak+ a ,knott$ ,wig--,( ! ,p>t+ & ,cr[n--,( ! ,cr[n only--,press+1 ,dress+1 etc4--,a ,sup]ior k9d ( ,wig ,describ$1 & ,mak+ ! same--,! ,transp>5t ,p>t+ & ,cr[n--,sundry ,important ,details4 8,d y n ?9k10 said a g5tleman to me "o day1 8t a wig made ) weft is r old-fa%ion$80 ,! "q c only be answ]$ 9 ! affirmative1 because knott$ "w has v g5]ally sup]s$$ x1 b1 ,i ma9ta91 = a man to be clev] 9 any trade or pr(ession 7& wig-mak+ =ms no exception to ! rule71 he mu/ be acqua9t$ ) all ! rudim5t>y p>ts4 ,to be well gr\nd$ 9 ! fir/ pr9ciples ( an art is1 o!r qualifications be+ equal1 a sure precursor ( success4 ,c>eful in/ructors are well aw>e ( ?is1 & z a consequ5ce1 cause _! pupils to und]go mu* prelim9>y tra9+ be=e entru/+ !m ) m difficult tasks4 ,! m$ical & legal pr(essions1 pa9t+1 sculpture & music1 *emi/ry1 photography1 & _m o!rs might be enum]at$ to %[ ! am\nt ( te*nical in/ruction :i* mu/1 z x 71 be drill$ into a man be=e he is suffici5tly clev] to take a =emo/ place 9 8 pr(ession4 ,! art ( hairdress+ furni%es ano!r in/ance ( :at ,i am ass]t+1 & ! tal5t$ coiffeurs1 :o give expositions ( _! skill at ! diff]5t conc\rs 9 ,p>is & ,london1 af=d examples ( untir+ en]gy1 & great att5tion to ! mo/ trifl+ details4 ,! fact is1 he :o desires to be clev] mu/ g plodd+1 plodd+ on1 reg>d+ no?+ z too trivial = him to d1 & no?+ 7)9 reason7 too difficult = him to attempt4 ,weft ( "o k9d or ! o!r w always be 9 requisition2 x is ! key-/one ( ! hair-"w trade1 af=ds employm5t to ! less skilful1 imp>ts durability to false hair manufactures1 & is contributory to *eapness4 ,my inquir+ fri5d c\ld h put a simil> "q to me respect+ ! metallic spr+2 b1 let me ask1 if a cu/om] did n wi% x1 & x 0 n consid]$ necess>y by ! wig-mak]1 :y introduce x at all8 ,! spr+ c be left out1 & o!r less] spr+s sub/itut$1 z x is v mu* a matt] ( ta/e or conv5i5ce4 ,"s p]sons _c be> ! pressure ( a metallic spr+1 :i*1 p]haps1 is attributable m to ! spr+ n fitt+ ! head prop]ly ?an to ! ov]s5sitiv5ess ( ! we>]4#bf ,yet ,i am "u an impression t1 = ord9>y we>1 a wig ) a well-fitt+ metallic spr+ across ! top1 or at ! back ( ! head 7! latt] especially7 is bo? secure & com=table2 ! wig reta9s its %ape bett]1 &1 ) weft1 is mu* m durable4 ,9 matt]s ( ?is description a great deal dep5ds ^u circum/ances1 & ! arrangem5ts made betwe5 buy] & sell]4 ,my desire is to give complet5ess to ! "w :i* ,i h und]tak52 to h1 z x 71 a 8^w 9 season0 = e em]g5cy2 to lead ! pupil f> on ! road t[>ds pr(ici5cy1 &1 hav+ arriv$ !re1 he c well be left to look aft] himself1 = he is no long] a le>n]1 b a good bo>dsman4 ,to make a knott$ wig1 ,i w direct ! read]'s att5tion to ,figs4 #ch & #ci1 & reque/ him to m\nt a wig 9 accordance ) ! in/ructions giv5 !re)4 ,he c m\nt x )1 or )\t1 ! metallic spr+1 b 9 ei!r case1 c>e mu/ be tak5 to affix spr+s ( ! requisite l5g?s1 & 9 suitable places to keep ! angles or po9ts well 9 position4 ,all ! spr+s mu/ be neatly cov]$1 & put on be=e ! net2 9 fact1 z ! wig is to be knott$1 all galloon "w %\ld be done fir/1 & ! net affix$ la/4 ,silk net is to be us$4 ,9 sew+1 fir/ /it* ! net to ! edge ( ! galloon 9 ! usual way1 & all[ x to ov]lap ! o!r edge be=e cutt+ (f4 ,n[ t portion :i* ov]laps is to be turn$ "u & sewn1 ( c\rse1 to ! second edge1 & ?us all ! galloon becomes firmly cov]$ ) net4 ,! same applies to ! spr+s & ) ev5 great] =ce to ! edges ( ! m\nt itself2 & "h x is necess>y to be extremely c>eful1 = :5 ! job is complet$ & comes "u ! scrut9iz+ glance ( ! ma/]1 all wefts %\ld be z regul> & well-set z plants 9 a g>d54 ,!re mu/ n be inequalities1 gaps1 or o!r irregul>ities1 all %\ld be neat & trim4 ,9 ?is in/ance ,i d n propose ins]t+ ei!r a p>t+ or cr[n4 ,i r pref] leav+ ! /ud5t to 8try 8 'pr5tice h&0 9 mak+ !m himself1 at lea/1 s f> z he is able4 ,my la/ wig 0 n int5d$ = a cle>ly def9$ p>t+2 nei!r is ?is "o4 ,! m\nt is n[ ready = ! hair1 in/ructions conc]n+ :i* h already be5 giv54 ,! c\rse to be pursu$ :5 knott+ ! hair1 is simil> to t :i* 0 adopt$ ) ! weft--! object be+ ! same4 ,i w\ld obs]ve t1 in/ead ( turn+ 9 ! net z be=e direct$1 ! mak] c 7if he *ooses7 sew ^u ! galloon two or ?ree r[s ( v f9e wig-weft2 "o or two ( !m1 h[ev]1 mu/ cov] ! edge ( ! net z well4 ,additional firmness be+ ?us secur$1 ! knott+ c !n be proce$$ )4 ,9 knott+ ov] or on ! galloon & spr+s1 co>s] "w1 if consid]$ desirable1 may v well be done1 b :5 x is execut$ on ! net1 ! knots %\ld be mod]ately f9e & regul>4 ,! angles1 or po9ts ( ! wig1 are to be well & prop]ly fill$ 91 & ( c\rse1 all ! hair %\ld be drawn 9 ! direction 9 :i* x is int5d$ to lie4 ,h[ close1 or h[ f> ap>t1 ! knots are to be plac$ is difficult to say4 ,all net is n made alike2 "s me%es be+ l>ge :ile o!rs are small1 &1 ( c\rse1 a fix$ rule w\ld n apply4 ,besides1 all workm5 are n pa9/ak+ or pati5t1 !re=e ! knott] mu/ obs]ve closely ! aspect ( 8 "w1 & be ! judge4 ,p]haps1 ) a mod]ately close me%1 x might be suffici5t to knot hair 9 e o!r space2 if ?is appe>s to make x too ?ick1 r$uce ! numb] ( hairs4 ,?is is a tol]ably safe rule to foll[1 & a little practical exp]i5ce w d ! re/4 ,! %ort] hair is to be us$ = ! neck & sides1 ! long] = ! top2 b 9 ^! matt]s su* copi\s in/ructions are already giv5 t ! /ud5t _c well make a mi/ake if he reads !m att5tively4 ,he has m]ely to sub/itute 8knots0 = 8weft10 & ! :ole w apply to ! job he has n[ und]tak54 ,z to ! p>t+ & cr[n1 "s ( ! details :i* h appe>$ are applicable "h4 ,z a cle>ly def9$ p>t+ is n int5d$1 x is m]ely necess>y to implant1 or knot ! hair clos] & f9] on ! side :]e ! p>t+ %\ld be1 ?an 9 any o!r portions ( ! wig4 ,:at division !re is %\ld be made ) ! bru% 7n ) ! comb71 c>e be+ tak5 t ! f\ndation is well cov]$ ) hair1 &1 ( c\rse1 conceal$ f view4 ,! cr[n is to be done la/ ( all1 &1 if knott$ ^u ! wig net1 ! design giv5 = mak+ a wov5 cr[n1 ,fig4 #dj1 %\ld be c>ri$ out z f> z possible4 ,! f\r sections are to be knott$ 9 su* a way t ! hair ( "o falls ov] ! o!r1 :ile ! knott+ imm$iately 9 ! c5tre %\ld be f9ely & closely arrang$4 ,except x be = practice or an economical cu/om]1 ,i d n expect t su* a cr[n w g5]ally be made1 because a silk1 sk91 net1 gauze1 or o!r cr[n c be obta9$ f ! hair m]*ant1 or pat5t p>t+ mak]1 :i*1 ( c\rse1 imp>ts a bett] f9i% to ! wig1 & pres5ts a m natural appe>ance4 ,! illu/ration1 ,fig4 #ci1 gives a circle adapt$ = ei!r ( ! cr[ns j m5tion$1 & if a silk or sk9 "o be employ$ no alt]ation 9 ?is "p ( ! wig is requir$2 b1 %\ld a transp>5t "o be ins]t$1 ! cross-pieces ( galloon mu/ be omitt$ :5 m\nt+1 or else cut away aft]w>ds--! reason is obvi\s4 ,if a transp>5t cr[n be ins]t$1 x is optional :e!r a piece ( ?9 sk9 7or o!r light mat]ial7 be put on fir/1 s z to prev5t1 to a c]ta9 ext5t1 ! effect ( p]spiration1 b if a human hair f\ndation be employ$1 no su* precaution is necess>y4 ,:e!r a protect+ sub/ance be us$ or n1 t "p ( ! cr[n 9 :i* hair is implant$ %\ld be br\ght close to ! inn] edge ( ! galloon1 & ! free portion1 i4e41 t ^u :i* no hair appe>s1 %\ld lie flat on ! galloon1 to :i* x mu/ be neatly sewn4 ,%\ld any ( ! mat]ial on :i* ! cr[n is work$ ov]lap ! galloon1 ( c\rse x mu/ be cut away4 ,! vacant space 7:i* w be j ! wid? ( ! galloon7 c !n be fill$ 9 ) weft1 unless ! net is prop]ly arrang$ = knott+4 ,b1 %\ld a non-transp>5t p>t+ be employ$1 ! galloon c rema9 z %[n1 & ! :ole be cov]$ ) ! net us$ = ! wig4 ,9 ?is case ! edges ( ! cr[n are to be turn$ 9 v neatly be=e x is sewn 9 position1 &1 if possible1 !y ought to be conceal$ by means ( ! galloon1 ! int]v5+ space is ei!r to be fill$ 9 ) weft1 or else ! hair c be knott$4 ,x w ?us be se5 t v>i\s me?ods ( f9i%+ (f :at might be t]m$ ! cr[n+ po9t ( a common wig c v well be adopt$4 ,= ,press+1 ,dress+1 ,ela/ic ,spr+s1 c41 see rem>ks :i* h f "t to "t be5 made4 ,i h giv5 su* copi\s directions = mak+ g5tlem5's wigs1 & dwelt at su* l5g? ^u ! v>i\s po9ts ess5tial to a good fit & ! com=t ( ! we>]1 t1 p]haps1 b little m ne$ be said ^u ! subject4 ,my in/ructions h be5 *iefly associat$ ) productions t are /rong & durable1 = x may be accept$ z a tru? t :5 a man c execute ! common] "w well1 only a %ort "t w elapse be=e he attempts1 or is call$ ^u1 to d some?+ bett]4 ,besides1 z ,i h s frequ5tly rem>k$1 my in/ructions are m int5d$ = le>n]s ?an = skill$ m54 ,^! d n /& 9 ne$ ( in/ruction2 inde$1 x w\ld be imp]t95t to (f] x to !m2 b ) appr5tices1 improv]s1 & o!rs ^: opportunities = le>n+ are few1 ! case is widely diff]5t4 ,?\gh ,i h dwelt at "s l5g? on ! manufacture ( g5tlem5's wigs--wigs t w endure a fair am\nt ( e-day we>--yet a few p>ticul>s conc]n+ ! bett]-class article w c]ta9ly n be out ( place1 & might prove to be exce$+ly useful4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #da4 ,i mu/1 !re=e1 aga9 direct ! read] to obs]ve ,figs4 #ch & #ci1 & att5tively read ! in/ructions ) :i* !y are accompani$4 ,hav+ done ?is1 ! above illu/ration is to be /udi\sly reg>d$1 & a m>k$ diff]5ce w easily be p]ceiv$4 ,! outl9e1 z a matt] ( c\rse1 is to be pres]v$1 & if ! /ud5t feels s incl9$1 he c take a trac+ & fill 9 ! m>k+s %[n ^u ! o!rs4 ,!re is no necessity = do+ s1 except t x impresses ! m\nt+ ( a wig ^u 8 memory 9 a m effectual mann]4 ,?is wig is int5d$ = a transp>5t p>t+ & cr[n1 ! f\ndation ( :i* may be ei!r human hair1 gauze1 net1 or su* mat]ial z is g5]ally us$ = ! purpose4 ,be=e putt+ on ! m\nt1 x is be/ to provide ! p>t+ & cr[n1 z well z ! hair to be us$ = ! o!r p>ts ( ! wig4 ,in/ructions z to l5g? & quantity h already be5 giv54 ,my reason = say+ t ! p>t+ & cr[n %\ld be obta9$ be=e putt+ on ! m\nt is1 because exactness c be bett] obs]v$4 ,! edges ( ! p>t+ "w lie on ! galloon to :i* x is sewn2 ! inn] edges ( ! galloon mu/ come close up to ! m>g9 ( ! implant$ hair2 8gaps0 or vacancies %\ld n be obs]vable1 b :5 ! wig is remov$ f ! block & exam9$1 ! p>t+ & cr[n1 be+ surr\nd$ ) ! galloon1 ought to look l a piece ( arti/ic "w well set 9 a frame4 ,( c\rse1 a silk or sk9 p>t+ & cr[n may be employ$ in/ead ( a transp>5t "o1 b !n !re is no occasion to leave ! op5+ 9 front1 z %[n 9 ! engrav+4#bg ,9 t case ! galloon c pass r\nd ! head1 be cont9u$ across1 & ! :ole cov]$ ) net2 ?is w imp>t /r5g? to ! wig--a transp>5t effect n be+ requir$4 ,to m\nt a wig = ! transp>5t p>t+ & cr[n1 comm5ce tack+ on ! galloon at ! neck1 ! free portion ly+ t[>ds ! left h&4 ,proce$1 keep+ ! galloon fairly tight till y rea* ! l[] "p ( ! e>2 use m po9ts1 & cont9ue till ! top ( ! e> is approa*$2 c>efully curve ! galloon & make a decid$ po9t 9 front ( ! e>4 ,!n incl9e ! galloon z %[n on ! temple1 & up to :]e "o corn] ( ! p>t+ is int5d$ to be atta*$4 ,turn ! galloon & trace ! outl9e = p>t+ & cr[n1 return+ to ! angle ne> ! c5tre ( ! =ehead4 ,incl9e ! galloon suffici5tly l[ 7b n l[] ?an is absolutely requir$7 & cont9ue r\nd ! o!r side ( ! block till ! />t+-place is rea*$4 ,cut (f1 b see t !re is at lea/ half-an-in* ( free galloon ^u ea* side1 :i* w pres5tly h to be sewn toge!r4 ,y h n[ ! outl9e galloon ^u ! block1 :i*1 aft] c>eful measurem5ts1 mu/ be securely ba/$4 7,! 8po9ts0 & ba/+ /it*es suffici5tly well indicate ?is47 ,aft]w>ds1 x w be f\nd t ! galloon is puck]$ 9 v>i\s places2 p9* "s ( ^! toge!r1 sew ?r\gh & ?r\gh close to ! block1 & fix s z to oblit]ate all su* indications4 ,! inn] galloon or 8fillet0 is next to be put on4 ,?is passes r\nd ! back ( ! head 7at ! neck7 & is fa/5$ ^u ! galloon at ea* side ( ! p>t+4 ,a piece ( galloon is !n plac$ at ! back1 ext5d+ f ! cr[n to ! l[] "p ( ! neck2 pieces ( galloon be+ put at ! sides1 rea*+ f ! top ( ! e>s to ! cr[n4 ,ano!r piece ( galloon is atta*$ to ! po9t ^u ! =ehead1 & jo9s ! p>t+ galloon 9 a /raight l9e ) ! piece at ! back4 ,spr+s are plac$ z %[n 9 ! engrav+1 or 9 su* o!r positions z may be requir$4 ,no metallic spr+ across ! top c be us$1 & "o at ! back is be/ avoid$1 = ) correct measurem5ts1 & p]haps "o or two ela/ic spr+s 9 ! neck1 a close-fitt+ wig may well be assur$4 ,a ref]5ce to ! illu/rations w sugge/ o!r m9or details1 &1 aft] all t has be5 said1 ! le>n] w "k h[ to deal ) !m4 ,! m\nt hav+ be5 complet$1 ! spr+s be+ neatly cov]$ & plac$ 9 position1 x n[ rema9s to put on ! net4 ,giv5 a transp>5t p>t+ & cr[n1 ! o!r portions ( ! wig %\ld be knott$4 ,inde$1 all ! bett] class ( "w ought to be s treat$1 ?\gh1 9 "s in/ances1 a little weft may be employ$ ) advantage1 especially if /r5g? be requir$4 ,h[ev]1 9 ?is in/ance1 ,i h design$ a knott$ wig1 ! op5ness or clos5ess ( ! net be+ left to y\r own selection2 reg>d always be+ paid to ! k9d ( "w y are go+ to d4 ,:5 ?is "p ( ! wig is complet$ ! net ought to 8fit l a glove10 & :]ev] !re is galloon1 ! net mu/ be sewn to ! edges ( ! same4 ,! knott+ or ins]tion ( ! hair ought to be done ) neatness & great regul>ity1 & %\ld be cont9u$ until ne>ly ! :ole ( ! wig is cov]$1 ) ! exception ( ! p>t+ & cr[n4 ,hav+ dwelt at l5g? on ?is "p ( ! subject 9 o!r places1 ,i _c d bett] ?an ask ! /ud5t to ref] back = m complete details4 ,) reg>d to ! transp>5t p>t+ & cr[n1 ! read] is invit$ to look at ,fig4 #da1 & he w p]ceive t ! side galloons 7on :i* ! edges ( ! p>t+ & cr[n are int5d$ to be sewn7 are securely held 9 position by "s l>ge /it*es plac$ 9 a zigzag direction4 ,^! /it*es c be increas$ or dim9i%$ at pleasure1 or tak5 away altoge!r if su* a /ep be desir$1 b ,i d n recomm5d x4 ,!y are int5d$ to imp>t additional /r5g? to ! zephyr-l p>t+2 to keep x f te>+1 & to prev5t its wid5+ or /ret*+1 z x mo/ likely w d1 unless some?+ effectual be done to /op x4 ,mo/ c]ta9ly !re ought to be a 8/it*0 or 8/ay0 )9 half an in* ( ! front ( ! p>t+1 ano!r %\ld be plac$ :]e ! p>t+ ends & ! cr[n beg9s1 :ile a ?ird might well be put mid-way betwe5 ! two4 ,!re is a sub/ance specially employ$ = mak+ ^! /it*es1 call$ 8,silkworm ,gut10 :i* c be obta9$ at ,messrs4 ,hov5d5 ,sons' w>eh\ses1 &1 z its "n implies1 is a k9d ( gut1 :ite 9 appe>ance1 & imp]vi\s to p]spiration4 ,! be/ :ite silk cord 7ab\t ! ?ickness ( co>se ?read7 is sometimes pref]r$2 x c be r5ew$ :5 ?\ght desirable1 & is1 fur!r1 s(t to ! head4 ,?is arrangem5t1 !n1 be+ complet$1 a piece ( sk91 us$ = ! purpose1 c be atta*$ to ! side galloons1 b is n requir$ :5 ! f\ndation is made ( human hair4 ,! sk9 %\ld n be all[$ to rea* ! front ( ! p>t+1 & mu/ be turn$ upw>ds & inw>ds1 s z to pres5t a neat & ev5 appe>ance at ! edge :5 ! wig is tak5 (f ! block4 ,^! prelim9>ies hav+ be5 duly att5d$ to1 ! p>t+ & cr[n may n[ be put 9 position & sewn c>efully1 s z to avoid any wr9kles or puck]+2 x mu/ lie flat1 be p]fectly smoo?1 & resemble ! natural p>t+ ( hair z mu* z possible4 ,h]e9 lies ! art ( ! wig-mak]--to imitate nature s skilfully t detection is almo/ impossible--a feat t is accompli%$ n unfrequ5tly by "s ( ! mo/ skilful wig-mak]s ( ! day4 ,! l>g] portion ( ! m\nt be+ n[ cov]$ ) hair1 & ! p>t+ & cr[n fix$1 x rema9s = ! int]v5+ spaces to be fill$ 91 :i* hav+ be5 done ! "w is ready to be press$4 ,in/ructions & rem>ks on ?is bran* ( ! subject h already be5 giv54 ,if possible1 x is at all times desirable to try on a wig be=e giv+ x up to ! we>]1 & ?is rem>k has special ref]5ce to g5tlem5's wigs4 ,ela/ic spr+s 79 ! neck7 may or may n be put 9 be=e ! fitt+ process takes place1 & ! f9i%+ t\*es %\ld1 if requir$1 be complet$ ^u ! head4 ,! hair ought to be well comb$ & dress$ to ! face1 & any?+ /rik+ or likely to draw att5tion to ! we>] 7s f> z ! wig is conc]n$7 mu/ be /udi\sly avoid$4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii4 ,( ,ladies' ,wigs1 & important rem>ks !reon--,( ,m\nt+ & ,mak+ ,ladies' ,wigs--,a well-balanc$ ,wig ess5tial--,a ,wig ) ,p>t+ & ,/raight ,hair ?r\gh\t--,all ,weft to be conceal$--,alt]ations--,( ,wigs ) transp>5t ,p>t+s--,m\nt+ & ,mak+ ! same--,%ape ( ,head to be not$1 toge!r ) any elevations or depressions--,! ,wig-block %\ld be a correct ,model ( ! ,head4 ,x is n[ my int5tion to treat ( ladies' wigs1 b be=e do+ s1 ,i desire to make a few g5]al rem>ks conc]n+ !m4 ,if possible1 ,i ?9k x be/ to avoid mak+ an entire wig = ladies' we>1 if ! cu/om>y plait$ knot is int5d$ to be worn beh9d1 & my reason = express+ su* an op9ion w pres5tly appe>4 ,p>tial baldness among ! female sex is n uncommon1 b ?is defect c well be conceal$ by cov]+s specially made = ! purpose4 ,^! pieces ( +5i\s workman%ip1 be !y frontlets1 scalpettes1 fr+es1 p>t+s1 twi/s1 *ignons1 curls1 plaits1 or :at n1 are easily & securely atta*$ to ! natural hair-gr[?1 :ile a ribbon-b[1 fea!r1 fl[]1 lace1 cap1 or o!r decoration l5ds a *>m1 & completes ! coiffure4 ,b :5 a wig is requir$1 ?r\gh ! head be+ v consid]ably depriv$ ( its natural cov]+1 a difficulty imm$iately arises z to hold+ x securely 9 position1 & ?is difficulty is increas$ by ! smoo?ness ( ! scalp1 caus$1 p]haps1 ?r\gh ! nature ( ! ailm5t1 or 9 consequ5ce ( ! head be+ %av$4 ,besides1 to promote ! gr[? ( hair1 ! %av+ process %\ld be frequ5tly repeat$1 &1 z a consequ5ce1 ! smoo?ness rema9s until ! hair has acquir$ suffici5t /r5g? & ?ickness to be p]mitt$ to gr[4 ,!n1 z ! hair increases 9 gr[?1 ! wig becomes m tr\blesome1 & x is a welcome mom5t :5 ! we>] c discont9ue its use1 & appe> 9 a 8%ort crop0 :i* is1 at ! pres5t "t1 s g5]ally adopt$ = fa%ion's sake4 ,b "s cases ( alopecia are kn[n to h defi$ all attempts to re/ore ! hair1 :ile o!rs1 aga91 only lose x = a "t1 f no assignable reason4 ,in/ances l ?is necess>ily require cov]+s = ! head1 :i*1 9 ! case ( g5tlem51 are comp>atively easy to deal )1 b 9 long-hair$ wigs = ladies x is a diff]5t matt] altoge!r4 ,copi\s in/ructions h be5 giv5 respect+ bo>d "w 9 g5]al1 & ! v>i\s manufactures !re) connect$2 & ! +5i\s tradesman w f9d b little difficulty1 ,i am incl9$ to ?9k1 9 devis+ a wig = ladies' we>1 :e!r x be curl$ all ov] z a 8friz10 ) or )\t p>t+1 or frizz$ 9 front only1 ) ! hair %ort & p>tially /raight beh9d4 ,9 ei!r case ! we>] w\ld be at lib]ty to ex]cise discretion 9 ! use ( additional po/i*es1 :i* may be employ$ ) advantage1 ei!r z reg>ds appe>ance1 com=t1 & :at is p]haps no less important--additional security4 ,9 mak+ wigs let x be a gold5 rule 7#a7 t !y b9d well to ! head1 & 7#b7 t ! front & back p>ts be equally-well balanc$1 or1 z ne>ly s z possible4 ,i said j n[ t ,i ?\ght 8x be/ to avoid mak+ an entire wig = ladies' we>1 especially if ! cu/om>y plait$ knot is int5d$ to be worn beh9d10 & "h is my reason = say+ s3 ,x too frequ5tly happ5s t wigs ( ?is description are ov]-weight$ at ! back4 ,consequ5tly !y slide away f ! face1 leav+ ! =ehead b>e4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 is a fe>ful s\rce ( anxiety & annoyance to ! we>]1 & compla9t is =?) made to ! tradesman :o execut$ ! ord]4 ,! article is !n return$ p]haps z a misfit1 or else to und]go c]ta9 alt]ations4 ,^! are c>ri$ out by additional dep? be+ giv5 to ! front2 necessitat+1 p]haps1 ! ins]tion ( a new p>t+2 ! hair at ! back probably w be r$uc$ 9 quantity 7& x may be %ort5$71 ! result prov+1 d\btless1 satisfactory4 ,:y8 ,because ! wig is n[ m ev5ly balanc$1 & consequ5tly sits ^u ! head a great deal bett]4 ,"h1 !n1 is ! secret ( mak+ a wig feel com=table--let x be well proportion$1 & use no m hair ?an is necess>y4 ,i _c conceive any?+ s di/ress+ to a we>] z ! feel+ ( anxiety & discom=t :i* a wig causes ?r\gh ev9c+ a /rong t5d5cy to slip d[n beh9d4 ,?is %\ld be ov]come1 & a clev] wig-mak] c1 if p]mitt$ to use 8 own judgm5t1 prev5t1 "u ord9>y circum/ances1 su* a contretemps tak+ place4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,respect+ ! m\nt+ ( a lady's wig1 ,i wi%1 9 ! fir/ place1 to direct ! le>n]'s att5tion to :at ,i h said ^u ! subject 9 prec$+ *apt]s1 s z to avoid unnecess>y repetitions4 ,true ! matt] !re ref]s to ^? worn by g5tlem51 b ! modus op]&i is almo/ id5tical1 & w apply1 to a v great ext5t1 9 bo? in/ances4 ,! clean block & p5cill$ outl9e1 ! putt+ on ( ! galloon1 & att5tion to curves1 ! e>s1 temples1 etc41 mu/ be equally well att5d$ to--! pr9cipal diff]5ce be+ 9 ! %ape ( ! front "p1 to :i* x is requisite m p>ticul>ly to allude4 ,9 comp>+ ,fig4 #ch 7m\nt = g5tleman's wig7 ) ! m\nt = a lady's wig1#bh ! v>iation becomes app>5t4 ,a g5tleman we>s ! p>t+ at ! side1 b z a lady usually p>ts h] hair 9 ! c5tre1 ! front has necess>ily to be some:at diff]5tly design$4 ,let u suppose t a wig has to be made accord+ to ! design giv5 on ! prec$+ page1 ) a pat5t sk9 p>t+ 9 front & long hair beh9d4 ,! p>t+1 ,i %\ld say1 ought to be five or six in*es 9 l5g? if /raight hair is to be employ$1 &1 p]haps1 /ill long] %\ld 8a friz10 or %ort curls be desir$4 ,:y8 ,to pres]ve ! balance z mu* z possible1 ( :i* ,i h already spok54 ,!re might be 7say1 = example7 two ounces ( #ad & #af-;in* hair 9 front1 & two & a-half ounces ( #ah & #bj-;in* at ! back2 & if ! m\nt be made well =w>d !re ne$ n be any appreh5sion ( ! wig slipp+ (f4 ,b %\ld ! we>] wi% to h a fr+e on ! =ehead1 ) curls at ! sides 7ei!r long or %ort71 equality ( weight mu/1 nev]!less1 be ma9ta9$1 & ! o!r portion treat$ accord+ly4 ,a well-balanc$ wig is1 at all times1 ess5tial to success4 ,to make a wig1 !n1 = /raight hair only1 m\nt x z previ\sly in/ruct$4 ,hav+ fix$ ! galloon accord+ to p5cill$ outl9es1 ba/e x c>efully & put ano!r piece ( galloon across ! top1 :i* mu/ ext5d f e> to e>4 ,next atta* galloon to :]e ! m\nt rises above ! temples1 pass x r\nd ! back l a fillet1 & fa/5 on to ! correspond+ side4 ,prep>e & cov] ! spr+s1 & place 9 position z indicat$4 ,9 ! neck1 j beh9d ! e>s1 two o!r spr+s are to be atta*$1 simil> to ^? m>k$ 9 ,fig4 #ci4 ,galloon is also to pass f ! top ( ! p>t+ to ! nape ( ! neck2 a piece ( broad ribbon on ! top1 betwe5 ! two spr+s1#bi & ! net be+ put on f9i%es ! m\nt4 ,:e!r ! hair %all be wov5 or knott$ is optional1 & 9 ref]5ce to bo? me?ods ( affix+ hair1 in/ructions h be5 freely giv5 9 o!r places4 ,if ! =m] be decid$ ^u x may be advisable to ref] to page #aci1 i4e41 9 s f> z ! front is conc]n$1 b a some:at diff]5t way mu/ be adopt$ ) ! back4 ,aft] fill+ up ! neck & angul> p>ts ) ! longe/ or mo/ suitable l5g? ( hair1 x w be f\nd t !re rema9s a m or less circul> place at ! back to be cov]$1 & 9 ord] to d ?is prop]ly ! sew+ %\ld be comm5c$ 9 ! middle1 & cont9u$ r\nd & r\nd 7l mak+ r+s ^u pap] )\t remov+ ! p5cil71 until ! :ole is fill$ 94 ,! weft ought to be v f9e & well spread1 & 9 ! c5tre "p especially ! r[s ne$ n be any?+ l close toge!r4 ,inde$1 r ?an leave an unseemly op5+1 ,i h f\nd x necess>y at times to fill up ! middle portion ) %ort1 f9e hair1 :i*1 be+ conceal$ by ! long] hair is no defect :atev]4 ,by su* an arrangem5t1 lightness is ma9ta9$1 :ile ! r[s ( weft are cont9u\s & regul>4 ,! weft be+ measur$1 & a calculation made z to ! space to be cov]$1 ! work] mu/ !n act accord+ly4 ,!re are two pr9cipal po9ts n[ to be m5tion$4 ,fir/1 ! cross-p>t+ f e> to e>1 :i* 9 ! pres5t in/ance ,i h design$ %\ld be =m$ ) ! weft4 ,x requires "s little ability to d ?is nicely1 = ! hair mu/ be s plac$ z to conceal ! weft1 ?\gh /ill mak+ a sep>ation or p>t+4 ,"s d x by adroitly cov]+ ) ! hair all ! weft except ! la/ r[1 :i*1 be+ closely wov5 & v f9e )al1 is sewn on ! wig ! wrong way1 b1 ! hair be+ press$ into prop] position1 cov]s ! weft1 & effectually conceals x f view4 ,!re are o!r modes ( atta9+ ?is object1 b mu* dep5ds on a man's +5uity1 = "h is a difficulty :i* a clev] workman mu/ seek to ov]come4 ,secondly1 x is natural = "s f9e1 %ort1 m or less fluffy hair to gr[ 9 ! neck2 & "h is ! next trial ( skill on ! "p ( ! wig-mak]4 ,no weft1 ( c\rse1 %\ld be se5 9 su* a noticeable place1 !re=e att5tion mu/ be giv5 at ! outset to hide ! l[] r[ or r[s1 p>tly by skilful manipulation 9 sew+ on1 & also by means ( ! %ort hair to :i* ,i h j allud$4 ,9 effect+ ! concealm5t ( ! weft1 att5tion %\ld be giv5 to ! diff]5t k9ds employ$ 9 ! manufacture ( po/i*es1 etc4#cj ,ref]r+ to ! illu/ration la/ giv51 ,i wi% to obs]ve t ! m\nt !re %[n c be adapt$ to a transp>5t1 in/ead ( a sk9 p>t+1 ) v little tr\ble4 ,an ord] might be tak5 = "o ( ! latt] description1 & p]haps c\nt]m&$ :5 ! m\nt is complet$ 9 fav\r ( "o ( a light] manufacture4 ,all t is necess>y "u su* circum/ances w\ld be to cut away ! l[]-c5tral piece ( galloon2 adapt ! ba/+ ?reads to ! alt]$ conditions1 & connect ) zigzag /it*es4#ca ,besides1 alt]ations are n unfrequ5tly requir$ 9 wigs aft] !y h be5 worn2 & a we>] may wi% = increas$ v5tilation 9 x1 ?r\gh its caus+ ! head to feel hot & uncom=table2 or o!r *anges might be want$ :i* necessitate ! ins]tion ( a new p>t+4 ,! requirem5ts ( p are v>i\s1 b ! +5i\s workman seldom ackn[l$ges a difficulty t 7)9 reasonable limits7 _c be ov]come4 ,to make a lady's wig ) transp>5t p>t+s1 p5cil ! outl9es ^u a clean block1 b1 if possible1 get ! p>t+s done be=e-h&2 my reason = ?is ,i h already giv54 ,exactness is ess5tial1 =1 ) ! m\nt be+ made 9 "o place & ! p>t+s 7front & cross-p>t+s7 9 ano!r1 a discrepancy might occur :i* is be/ avoid$4 ,i w suppose t ! hair1 p>t+s1 galloon1 net1 etc41 are all ready to h&2 ! measurem5ts c>efully obs]v$1 &1 p]haps1 "s o!r necess>y details not$4 ,comm5ce by tack+ on ! galloon at ! neck1 br+ x t[>ds ! left e>1 & !n1 ov] ! temple to ! side ( ! p>t+2 turn1 & cont9ue ! galloon z f> back t[>ds ! cr[n z ! front p>t+ is int5d$ to g4 ,turn aga91 & fa/5 (f at ! top ( ! e>1 tak+ c>e to foll[ ! l9e m>k$ = ! p>t+4 ,a portion ( "o side ( ! m\nt is ?us =m$ :i* c be trac$ by ref]r+ to ,fig4 #db4 ,! "r side %\ld be done 9 ! same way1 & ,i ne$ h>dly obs]ve t bo? sides mu/ correspond exactly4 ,next place ! galloon s z to ext5d f "o temple to ! o!r1 & across ! back ( ! neck aft] ! mann] ( a fillet1 b x mu/ ov]lap 7j beh9d ! e>7 t :i* 0 fir/ put on4 ,ano!r piece ( galloon is next to be fix$ 9 position across ! top ( ! head1 ext5d+ f "o e> to ! o!r4 ,) an obvi\s exception at ! top1 !re w n[ be two galloons exactly ! wid? & l5g? ( ! cross p>t+1 & two galloons 9 front also1 exactly ! wid? & l5g? ( ! front p>t+4 ,! pr(ess$ wig-mak] may raise an objection to ! galloon rema9+ at ! ends ( ! side p>t+s2 b 9 su* places x w sc>cely be se51 & by all[+ x to rema9 mu* additional /r5g? is giv5 to ! wig--no unimportant consid]ation ) ^? ( an economical turn ( m9d4 ,b1 z ,i h repeat$ly /at$1 ^! lessons are n design$ly = ! v skilful1 & x is a "q :e!r ! man :o attempts to make a wig su* z ,i am describ+ ne$ ref] to ?is at all4 ,i imag9e n1 b !re are le>n]s1 & to !m in/ruction w always be acceptable4 ,! spr+s 7made ( f9e wat*-spr+7 are to be neatly cov]$ & plac$ 9 _! respective positions4 ,x is advisable to affix "o on ea* side ( ! front p>t+1 & ! o!rs :]e necess>y to ma9ta9 ! prop] %ape ( ! m\nt4 ,! net %\ld be put on next & sewn accord+ to in/ructions frequ5tly giv5 be=e4 ,:e!r ! hair is to be knott$ or wov51 ! mak] mu/ decide1 b p]haps ! =m] is be/ adapt$ = a wig ( ?is k9d4 ,:e!r ! p>t+s %\ld be atta*$ be=e or aft] a great] portion ( ! hair is knott$ or sewn on1 is optional1 s long z _! prop] adaptation is secur$4 ,%\ld !y be ( gauze or net1 x may be ?\ght desirable1 fir/ ( all1 to atta* "s ?9 sk91 to c\nt]act z mu* z possible ! effects ( p]spiration & grease2 b if ! f\ndation be made ( human hair1 no su* precaution is necess>y4 ,i h be=e allud$ to ! diff]5t k9ds ( net us$ 9 wig-mak+1 & !re is also v>iety 9 galloons1 "s be+ :ite & "s fle%-col\r1 z well z ! ord9>y br[n4 ,be> 9 m9d my rem>ks ab\t ladies' wigs be+ well-balanc$1 & :5 measur+ ! head1 c>efully obs]ve ! %ape4 ,if smoo? & r\nd1 two ela/ic spr+s 9 ! neck w be absolutely necess>y2 b %\ld ! head incl9e to fulness 7ei!r back or front7 ^! m or less prom95t organs1 speak+ phr5ologically1 w p]haps give a 8/ay0 to ! wig1 & ! ela/ics may be consid]$ unnecess>y4 ,a ^w or two conc]n+ natural elevations & depressions may probably be useful4 ,x has be5 previ\sly /at$ t 9 m\nt+ a wig ! block mu/ be at lea/ half an in* l>g] r\nd ?an ! actual measurem5t2 ?is is to all[ = %r9k+4 ,%\ld !re be any protub]ances or 8bumps0 app>5t1 a simil> elevation mu/ be made ^u ! block1 &1 ( c\rse1 exactly 9 ! same position4 ,?is may be done ) ?9 %eet lead1 su* z tea-*e/s are l9$ )2 b %\ld !re be a depression1 !n ! place ^u ! block mu/ be fil$ or scrap$ away if necess>y4 ,! block is1 z x 71 ! model2 & ) a good model to "w ^u1 a p]fect fit c almo/ be ensur$4 ,i ne$ n dilate ^u any o!r /yles ( ladies' wigs1 believ+ t ,i h said q en\gh to enable a man to make almo/ any?+ t might be requir$4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv4 ,! use ( ,lea!r ,roll]s 9 ,curl+ ,hair--,pap]+ & ,p9*+ ,hair ) ! same object 9 view--,plait+ ,hair 7= ,coiffures7--,( ,razors1 ,razor ,sett+1 & ,razor ,/rops--,miscellane\s ,recipes4 ,besides ! prep>ation ( hair = mak+ x into twi/s1 curls1 b&eaux1 scalps1 wigs1 etc41 !re are _m o!r ?+s to be done ) c>e & att5tion1 & 8,bo>d-"w0 w n be complete )\t "s allusion be+ made to !m4 ,= in/ance1 !re is ! curl+ ( hair ) lea!rn roll]s4 ,^! roll]s are smoo?1 s(t1 r\nd1 & well adapt$ to ! purpose4 ,!y make a nice curl if prop]ly manipulat$1 d n break ! hair1 & only ! application ( a little w>m? is necess>y4 ,= r+let hair no?+ c be bett]1 no matt] :e!r x be real or false4 ,next to ! employm5t ( roll]s1 is ! process ( pap]+ & p9*+ ! hair4 ,a dext]\s workman exp]i5ces no difficulty :atev] 9 roll+ up a ?9 /rip ( hair 7no matt] :e!r x be long or %ort7 ) 8 ?umb & f+]1 & wrapp+ ! usual ?ree-corn]$ curl pap] ar\nd x4 ,b a curl+-peg is m g5]ally employ$4 ,?is is a r\nd piece ( h>d wood ab\t six in*es long1 p]fectly smoo?1 ) "o end mu* ?9n] ?an ! o!r4 ,! reason is--%\ld ! hair be %ort1 or a tight curl requir$1 ! small end mu/ be us$1 b if ! hair be long1 & a full1 r\nd1 curl want$1 !n ! ?ick] portion has to be employ$4 ,! curl is made by roll+ x r\nd & r\nd ! 8peg0 7beg9n+ at ! po9ts & end+ at ! roots71 & keep+ x z flat z possible all ! "t4 ,!n hold ! curl$ portion securely betwe5 ! ?umb & f+]s ( ! left h&1 )draw ! 8peg10 & place ! curl )9 ! ?ree-corn]$ pap] a=esaid1 screw+ up ! ends to make all secure4 ,:5 ?is is done1 ! curl %\ld feel p]fectly r\nd )9 ! pap]1 ! c5tre be+ equally z well =m$ b holl[4 ,be> 9 m9d :at ,i h s frequ5tly said be=e1 t all curls %\ld turn to ! face4 ,only a m$ium quantity ( hair is to be tak5 = ea* curl1 & all ought to be ab\t ! same size4 ,! curls are next to be 8p9*$10 &1 = ?is purpose1 p9*+ irons are br\ght into requisition4 ,if ! hair be some:at new1 & ( good quality1 ! less heat t is appli$ ! bett]1 b %\ld x be o!rwise mu* w>m? & pressure is necess>y4 ,old hairdress]s c recollect :5 ! fronts & curls :i* came to be re-dress$ _h to be bak$ 7!y 7 s num]\s71 & h[ tr\ble 0 caus$ sometimes1 ?r\gh _! be+ 8ov]done40 ,! pap]+ %\ld be done 9 regul> ord]1 & all q cold be=e ! pap]s are remov$4 ,= dress+1 a little oil 7n pomade7 %\ld be us$1 & ! curls--if long or %ort r+lets--=m$ ) ! aid ( a curl-/ick or cold curl+ irons4 ,true1 !y c be =m$ ) ! f+]s1 b ! o!r me?od ,i consid] be/4 ,%ort1 r\nd curls1 ( c\rse mu/ be made ) ! f+]s aft] a little frizz+1 b ^! op]ations are difficult to expla9 9 writ+--!y want practical illu/ration1 :i*1 n[ t we h societies & s*ools1 is easily obta9able4 ,conc]n+ ! beautiful art ( plait+ hair = ladies' coiffures1 ! read] is in=m$ t copi\s in/ructions are already giv5 9 my 8,lessons 9 ,hairdress+10 & to t "w he is respectfully ref]r$4 ,( razors & razor-%>p5+ mu* might be said1 bo? z reg>ds ! in/rum5t itself1 z well z ! prop] mode ( keep+ x 9 ord]4 ,e hairdress] & b>b] kn[s :5 he is 9 possession ( a good razor1 & und\bt$ly takes prop] c>e ( x4 ,he is to be comm5d$ = ?is1 z he simply foll[s ! c\rse adopt$ by ^? 9 o!r walks 9 life4 ,:e!r ! old-fa%ion$ description ( razor is bett] or worse ?an ! m mod]n 8holl[-gr\nd0 ,i w n discuss1 believ+ t a great deal dep5ds ^u ! %av]1 ! nature ( ! be>d1 & ! conditions "u :i* ! %av+ op]ation is p]=m$4 ,good practice 9 a b>b]'s %op is ! be/ s*ool 9 ! _w = imp>t+ a k ( easy %av+2 :ile ord9>y intellig5ce comb9$ ) %rewd obs]vation1 w g f> t[>ds mak+ "o a ma/] ( 8 art4 8,x appe>s10 obs]ves a writ]#cb on ! subject1 8t ! *oice ( a razor may q z well be left to ! mak]s1 z det]m9$ by ! pur*as]2 h[ev]1 x sometimes happ5s1 t1 exclusive ( its goodness1 ! weight1 ! poise1 c41 ( a razor1 are circum/ances :i* seem to claim acqua9tance ) p>ticul> h&s2 &1 ) reg>d to ^!1 e "o w d well to suit himself4 8,i h lately v5tur$1 not)/&+ ! long-e/abli%$ notion t weight is a v requisite prop]ty 9 a razor1 to recomm5d ^? :i* 7 defici5t 9 ?is respect2 & ,i w embrace ?is opportunity to (f] ! reasons :i* influ5c$ my judgm5t on ! subject4 8,x does n appe>1 ^u consid]+ by :at means a razor acts1 t its pond]osity c assi/ 9 ! op]ation2 ! p]=mance dep5d+ ^u ! condition ( ! edge1 ab/ract$ly f its weight2 mom5tum c assi/ only :]e =ce is requisite2 ?us1 9 divid+ a t\gh piece ( wood1 we f9d t ! edge ( a knife1 h[ev] ke51 _c make its way2 x becomes necess>y1 !re=e1 to use "s in/rum5t ( m weight1 :i*1 be+ appli$ by an accel]at$ action ( ! arm1 becomes equal to ! task4 ,! weight ( all cutt+ in/rum5ts %\ld be adapt$ accord+ to ! nature ( _! act+2 & if ! be>d requir$ to be hewn1 or *opp$ (f1 d\btless1 a hat*et1 ) a %>p edge1 w\ld answ] ! purpose bett] ?an a razor2 on ! contr>y1 if ! be>d c be eras$ by an un=c$ incision1 :i* is c]ta9ly ! case1 an in/rum5t ( no consid]able weight1 ) a prop] edge1 w always des]ve ! pref]5ce2 = ! h&1 hav+ no?+ to ov]come 9 po9t ( weight1 p]=ms ) m exactness & ease1 ?an x possibly c1 :5 feel+ ! oppression ( weight 9 ! in/rum5t x has to manage40 ,z reg>ds holl[-gr\nd razors mu* c be said 9 _! fav\r1 & _m 9 ! trade consid] !m to be ! be/1 b ( ?is ea* man mu/ judge = himself4 ,i ?9k t mu* dep5ds on fancy1 & :at we are accu/om$ to1 z well z to ! mode ( treatm5t4 ,sometimes x is requisite to put a long-us$ razor by = a "t s z to re/ore its edge1 & ! foll[+ obs]vations an5t 8,tir$ ,razors0 are propos ( ! subject3--,b>b]s (t5 ass]t t razors get 8tir$0 ( %av+1 & t !y w "w satisfactorily if p]mitt$ to re/ = a "t4 ,x has be5 f\nd by microscopic exam9ation t ! 8tir$0 razor1 f long /ropp+ by ! same h&1 & 9 ! same direction1 has ! ultimate fibres ( its surface or edge all arrang$ 9 "o direction1 l ! edge ( a piece ( cut velvet2 b aft] a mon?'s re/ ! fibres re>range !mselves het]og5e\sly1 cross+ ea* o!r1 & pres5t+ a saw-l edge1 ea* fibre support+ its fell[1 & h5ce cutt+ ! be>d in/ead ( be+ =c$ d[n flat )\t cutt+4 ,razor-sett+ _c well be taught--x mu/1 7l tun+ a viol97--be acquir$4 ,"s p]sons are unable to set a razor ) any degree ( c]ta9ty1 :ile o!rs become recognis$ z clev] 9 t bran* ( ! bus9ess4 ,! quality ( ! hone is an important consid]ation 9 razor-sett+2 x %\ld nei!r be too h>d nor too s(t4 ,! razor has to be rubb$ f heel to po9t 9 ! usual way1 & always turn$ on ! back4 ,! edge %\ld be tri$ f "t to "t ^u ! ?umb or f+]-nail1 until x feels q smoo? & ke51 x is !n to be fix$ or 8set40 ,?is is effect$ by pass+ ! razor to & fro1 z lightly z possible & ) s+le /rokes ^u ! hone4 ,d ?is = a %ort "t until ! edge 8bites0 ! nail z x 71 :5 ! sett+ is complet$4 ,%\ld x n d s1 ! assumption is t ! sett+ has n gone f> en\gh2 ! o!r extreme be+ :5 ! edge is wiry1 & !n ! sett+ is ov]done4 ,9 ei!r case ! job is n satisfactory1 z ! razor is 8n 9 tune10 & w quickly require to be set aga94 ,/ropp+ assi/s greatly 9 fix+ ! edge ( a razor1 & p]haps ,i _c d bett] ?an quote :at ,mr4 ,savigny says ^u ! subject3-- 8,9 /rapp+ a razor1 x is necess>y to obs]ve1 t ! ?ick or h9d "p be>s ^u ! lea!r at ! same "t ! edge does3 = if ! back is rais$1 ! h& loses its only guide2 9 :i* case x c\ld n fail ( receiv+ "s injury2 b if ! razor is appli$ flat1 & ! /rap a prop] "o1 t5 or twelve /rokes1 on ea* side ! blade1 w be suffici5t to give ! edge its necess>y refre%m5t4 8,i h always giv5 directions to draw ! razor d[nw>ds1 f ! t]m9ation ( ! edge to ! po9t2 hav+ exp]i5c$ t ?is is ! mo/ /eady mann] ! h& c act 92 & x is an obs]vation pretty well e/abli%$1 t any ?+ may be drawn to a mu* great] degree ( exactness1 ?an x c be %ov$2 & 9 ! pres5t case1 7 a razor to be pu%$ upw>ds along ! /rap1 t is1 f ! po9t to ! t]m9ation ( ! edge1 !re w\ld be "s dang] ( its turn+ on ! rivet1 & cutt+ bo? ! lea!r & ! f+]s2 to be z secure z possible 9 ?is respect1 x w be well to place ! hold j above ! rivet1 grasp+ at ! same "t ! h&le1 & t "p ( ! blade :i* issues f x4 8,! mann] 9 :i* a prop] /rap acts ^u a razor mu/ necess>ily =m an edge mo/ suitable = ! purpose1 z x nei!r we>s x s fa/ z ! hone1 nor conf9es its effects entirely to a flat2 by ! g5tle mann] 9 :i* x op]ates1 & be+ 9 "s measure yield+ to pressure1 x _c leave t r\ghness ^u ! edge1 :i* ! hone1 on acc\nt ( its quickness1 & ! solidity ( its surface1 is commonly f\nd to produce40 ,!re _c be two op9ions reg>d+ ! importance ( a good /rop1 & its be+ kept 9 prop] condition1 if ! edge ( a razor is to be consid]$4 ,= ord9>y use1 ,i give ! pref]5ce to buff lea!r m\nt$ ^u wood 9 ! old /yle1 b !re %\ld always be a lay] or two ( common lea!r or o!r suitable sub/ance betwe52 o!rwise !re w be a h>dness :i*1 to say ! lea/1 is n agreeable4 ,s(tness & pliability %\ld always be aim$ at1 &1 d\btless1 ?is is :y _m pref] a long piece ( buff securely fa/5$ to ! wall4 ,9 prep>+ ! lea!r = %op use1 aft] hav+ clean$ & ?or\ghly dri$ x1 saturate x ) olive oil1 & !n let x be well dress$ ) suitable razor pa/e4 7,if ! lea!r is int5d$ to be affix$ to wood1 x mu/ be glu$ on fir/ & "t all[$ = ! glue to h>d547 ,canvas /rops are g5]ally recomm5d$ = holl[-gr\nd razors1 b !y are specially prep>$ 9 ,g]many1 ) ! aid ( suitable ma*9]y4 ,:5 unprep>$1 ! canvas is exce$+ly h>d1 & to adapt x = use1 x %\ld be fill$ ) s(t soap1 ! ends secur$1 & boil$ = "s l5g? ( "t 9 a suffici5t quantity ( wat]4 ,x is !n to be press$ flat1 scrap$1 & well rubb$ ) a smoo?1 r\nd in/rum5t until x becomes s(t & pliable4 ,,miscellane\s ,,recipes4 ,,razor ,,pa/es4 7#a47 ,f jewell]'s r\ge1 plumbago1 & suet1 equal p>ts1 melt$ toge!r & /irr$ until cold4 7#b47 ,f prep>$ putty p[d] 7levigat$ oxide ( t971 #c p>ts2 l>d1 #b p>ts2 crocus m>tis1 #a "p2 triturate toge!r4 7#c47 ,prep>$ putty p[d]1 #a oz42 p[d]$ oxalic acid1 oz42 p[d]$ gum1 #bj gra9s2 make a /iff pa/e ) wat]1 q4s41 & ev5ly & ?9ly spread x ov] ! /rop1 ! o!r side ( :i* %\ld be cov]$ ) any ( ! common greasy mixtures4 ,) v little friction ?is pa/e gives a f9e edge to ! razor1 & its action is /ill fur!r increas$ by slightly moi/5+ x1 or ev5 brea?+ on x4 ,imm$iately aft] its use1 ! razor %\ld receive a few turns on ! o!r side ( ! /rop4 7#d47 ,me*i's4--,em]y1 r$uc$ to an impalpable p[d]1 #d p>ts2 de] suet1 #a "p2 well mix$ toge!r4 7#e47 ,pradi]'s4--,f p[d]$ ,turkey /one1 #d ozs42 jewell]'s r\ge & prep>$ putty p[d]1 ( ea*1 #a oz42 h>d suet1 #b ozs4 ,obs4--,! above 7g5]ally made up into squ>e cakes7 are rubb$ ov] ! razor /rop1 & ! surface be+ smoo!d (f ) ! flat "p ( a knife1 or a phial bottle1 ! /rop is set aside = a few h\rs to h>d5 be=e be+ us$4 ,,%av+ ,,pa/es4 7#a47 ,naples soap 7g5u9e71 #d ozs42 p[d]$ ,ca/ile soap1 #b ozs42 honey1 #a oz42 ess5ce ( amb]gris1 & oils ( cassia & nutmegs1 ( ea* #e or #f drops4 7#b47 ,:ite wax1 sp]maceti1 & almond oil1 ( ea* oz42 melt1 &1 :ile w>m1 beat 9 two squ>es ( 7:ite7 ,w9dsor soap1 previ\sly r$uc$ to a pa/e ) a little rose wat]4 7#c47 ,:ite1 s(t soap1 #d ozs42 sp]maceti & salad oil1 ( ea* oz42 melt !m toge!r1 & /ir until cold4 ,x may be sc5t$ at w4 ,:5 prop]ly prep>$1 ^! pa/es produce a good la!r ) ei!r hot or cold wat]1 :i* does n dry on ! face4 ,! prop] me?od ( us+ !m is to sme> a m9ute quantity ov] ! be>d1 & !n to apply ! wett$ %av+-bru%1 & n to p\r wat] on !m1 z is ! common practice4 ,,ess5ce ,,( ,,soap1 ,,%av+ ,,ess5ce1 ,,or ,,%av+ ,,fluid4 ,:ite h>d soap#cc 79 %av+s71 lb42 rectifi$ _s1 #a p9t2 wat]1 p9t2 p]fume 7at w71 q4s4 ,put !m into a /rong bottle ( glass or t91 cork x close1 set x 9 w>m wat] = a %ort "t1 & occasionally agitate x briskly until solution be complete4 ,aft] repose1 p\r (f ! cle> portion f ! dregs 7if any7 into clean bottles = use1 & at once closely cork !m4 ,if ! solution be n suffici5tly transp>5t1 a little rectifi$ _s %\ld be add$ to x be=e decantation4 ,a little _s 7fully pro(7 may be add$ if x be desir$ to r5d] x ?9n]4 ,if mu* ess5tial oil be us$ to p]fume x1 ! transp>5cy ( ! product w be less5$4 ,*iefly us$ = %av+1 by travell]s & o!rs1 to avoid ! tr\ble ( c>ry+ or keep+ a soap-box4 ,by simply rubb+ two or ?ree drops on ! sk91 & apply+ ! %av+ bru%1 previ\sly slightly dipp$ 9 wat]1 a good la!r is produc$4 ,! *oice ( p]fume is a m]e matt] ( ta/e1 z ) toilet soaps1 #ae to #bj drops ( ess5ce ( musk or amb]gris1 #a fluid dra*m ( any ( ! ord9>y fragrant ess5ces or esprits1 or #ab or #ae drops ( ess5tial oils 7simple or mix$71 p] p9t1 are suffici5t = ! purpose1 a correspond+ "n be+ giv5 to ! prep>ation2 z 8,ess5ce10 or 8,esprit de ,savon la ,rose10 8,ess5ce ,royale p\r la ,b>be10 c4--,cooley4 ,,rosem>y ,,hair ,,wa%4 ,cold 7boil$7 wat]1 gallon2 _s ( rosem>y1 #aj ozs42 eau de ,cologne1 #aj ozs42 glyc]9e1 #b ozs42 salts ( t>t>1 #a oz42 liquor ammonia1 oz4 ,col\r ) burnt sug>4 ,,am]ican ,,%ampoo ,,liquid4 ,take ( sesquic>bonate ( ammonia1 & c>bonate ( pota%1 ( ea*1 #b dra*ms2 s(t wat]1 #a p9t2 dissolve1 & add ! solution to a mixture ( t9cture ( can?>ides1 #a fluid ounces2 rectifi$ _s1 p9t2 & good rum1 #a p9ts2 & agitate ! :ole well toge!r1 add+ a little sc5t or n1 at w4 ,a common] k9d1 9 :i* ! 8rectifi$ _s0 & "o-?ird ( ! 8rum0 is replac$ by wat]1 =ms ! 8%ampoo liquid0 (t5 us$ by hairdress]s1 aft] cutt+ ! hair4 ,a ,,wa% ,,= ,,moi/1 ,,lax ,,hair4 ,take ( ess5tial oil ( almonds1 #a fluid dra*m2 oil ( cassia1 & ess5ce ( musk1 ( ea*1 fluid dra*m2 rectifi$ _s1 #b ounces2 mix1 & add gradually1 ) brisk agitation1 #af ounces ( di/ill$ wat]1 9 :i* #a ounce ( f9e/ gum arabic has be5 dissolv$4 ,! hair & scalp %\ld be slightly moi/5$ ) ! liquid1 & ! hair at once arrang$1 )\t wip+1 :il/ /ill moi/4 ,,wa%es ,,= ,,dry1 ,,/ubborn ,,hair4 ,! be/ & mo/ effective ( ^! consi/s ( glyc]9e dissolv$ 9 any fragrant di/ill$ wat]1 z t ( roses1 or orange or eld] fl[]s1 9 ! proportion ( #a to #a ounces ( ! =m]1 to #a p9t ( ! latt]4 ,"s ( !m also conta9 #ae to #bj gra9s ( salt ( t>t> p] p9t4 ,,egg ,,julep4 ,egg julep1 or saponace\s wa%1 is made z foll[s3--,rectifi$ _s1 #a p9t2 rose-wat]1 #a gallon2 extract ( rondeletia1 p9t1 transp>5t soap1 oz42 hay saffron1 dra*m2 %ave up ! soap v f9e2 boil x & ! saffron 9 a qu>t ( ! rose-wat]2 :5 dissolv$ add ! rema9d] ( ! wat]1 !n ! _s1 f9ally ! rondeletia1 :i* is us$ by way ( p]fume4 ,aft] /&+ = two or ?ree days x is fit = bottl+4 ,by transmitt$ light x is transp>5t2 b by reflect$ light ! liquid has a pe>ly & s+ul>ly wavy appe>ance :5 %ak54--,piesse4 ,,bay ,,rhum4 ,t9cture ( bay leaves1 #e ozs42 otto ( bay1 #a dra*m2 bic>bonate ( ammonia1 #a oz42 biborate ( soda 7borax71 #a oz42 rose wat]1 #a qu>t4 ,mix & filt]4 ,piesse says3 8,?is is a v good hair-wa%4 ,x 0 fir/ introduc$ 9 ,new ,york by ^? g-ahead scissors t #8abbreviate' ! #8cr[n ( glory4'0 ,ano!r4 ,bay leaf otto1 oz42 magnesium c>bonate1 oz42 ,jamaica rum1 #b p9ts2 alcohol1 #c p9ts2 wat]1 #c p9ts4 ,triturate ! ottos ) ! magnesium c>bonate1 gradually add+ ! o!r +r$i5ts1 previ\sly mix$1 & filt]4--,snively4 ,,to ,,allay ,,irritation ,,( ,,! ,,sk9 ,,aft] ,,%av+4 ,p[d]1 ei!r pla9 or sc5t$1 is ! be/ c\nt]-irritant aft] %av+1 b z "s p]sons give ! pref]5ce to bay rhum1 ! foll[+ =mula may be adopt$3--,bay rhum 7( ! ord9>y /r5g?71 #h ozs42 rose wat]1 #h ozs42 glyc]9e1 #b ozs4 ,mix1 & let x /& = a few days1 !n filt]4 ,%\ld ?is be f\nd too p[]ful = g5]al use1 add m rose wat]4 ,,brilliant9e4 ,a solution ( ca/or oil 9 eau de ,cologne1 #a "p 9 #d4 ,ano!r3 ,glyc]9e & eau de ,cologne1 ( ea* #a "p2 honey1 #b p>ts2 rectifi$ _s1 #d p>ts4 ,ano!r =mula is z foll[s3--,ca/or oil1 #a oz42 esprit de rose1 #a oz42 spirits ( w9e1 #b ozs4 ,a few drops ( t9cture ( saffron to col\r4 ,,m>r[ ,,oil4 ,prep>$ 7b5zoat$7 l>d1 #c lbs42 cl>ifi$ beef suet1 #a lbs42 palm oil1 lb42 yell[ wax1 #d ozs42 ca/or oil1 #a lb42 olive oil1 #a lbs42 ess4 oils ( b]gamot1 lemon1 & cloves1 ( ea*1 oz4 ,,hair ,,oil4 ,f9e/ olive oil1 #c lbs42 ca/or oil1 lb42 ess4 lemon #a ozs4 ,to col\r1 /eep #a oz4 ( alkanet root 7bruis$1 & ti$ 9 musl97 to e #bj ozs4 ,apply heat by means ( a wat] ba?1 & filt]4 ,,! ,,end4 ----- ,footnote #a3 ,see page #cg4 ,footnote #b3 ,= ! conv5i5ce ( ^? :o desire ! in=mation1 ,i may /ate t ,messrs4 ,r4 ,hov5d5 ,sons keep all ! necess>y implem5ts 9 /ock1 & supply !m to ! trade4 ,footnote #c3 ,vide ,! ,hairdress]s' ,*ronicle1 #ae? ,july1 #ahgf4 ,footnote #d3 ,see illu/ration 9 ,*apt] ,v4 ,footnote #e3 ,see ,fig4 #i4 ,footnote #f3 ,fig4 #af4 ,footnote #g3 ,conc]n+ ,fr5* weights1 measures1 & money1 ! foll[+ in=mation w1 d\btless1 be useful3--,! unit 9 weights is ! gramme4 #bh ( :i* g to ! ,engli% ounce2 #a1jjj grammes are call$ a kilogramme1 or1 %ort5$1 a kilo41 equal 9 weight to #b lb4 #c oz4 #d drs4 ,engli% avoirdupois4 ,! unit 9 measures is ! metre1 equal 9 l5g? to #ci in*es ,engli%4 ,! metre is divid$ into #a1jjj p>ts1 ea* ( :i* is call$ a millimetre2 #aj millimetres are call$ a c5timetre4 ,! l5g? ( a c5timetre is r m ?an "o-?ird ( an in* ,engli%1 ! figure 9 decimals be+ #jcicga4 ,"o foot ,engli% is equal to #cjd millimetres1 & an in* equals r m ?an #be millimetres4 ,! unit 9 money is ! franc1 equal to n9ep5ce-halfp5ny ,engli%4 ,! franc is divid$ into "o hundr$ p>ts1 ea* ( :i* is call$ a c5time2 five c5times are call$ a s\2 & a s\ is r less 9 value ?an a half-p5ny4 ,footnote #h3 ,doni/horpe v4 ,j[ett1 #ahgf2 vide ,law ,report 9 ,! ,hairdress]s' ,*ronicle4 ,footnote #i3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,footnote #aj3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,footnote #aa3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,footnote #ab3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,footnote #ac3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,footnote #ad3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,footnote #ae3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,footnote #af3 ,page #aej4 ,footnote #ag3 ,!re are 7or us$ to be7 silk nets made = ! purpose1 v /rong & durable1 & c\ld be procur$ :]e ! 8trimm+s0 are usually sold4 ,! cr[n ( ?is net is left r loose & ?read$ on a silk cord4 ,! cord is held up1 :i* ga!rs ! loose me%es toge!r1 :5 x %\ld all be fa/5$1 & ?us a caul net well fitt+ ! head is =m$4 ,footnote #ah3 ,i m5tion six in*es because hair ( t l5g? is mo/ conv5i5t = a le>n] to practise )1 b y w h to knot hair ( v>i\s l5g?s1 f ! %orte/ = g5tlem5's p]ukes1 to v long = ladies' wigs4 ,footnote #ai3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,footnote #bj3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,footnote #ba3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,footnote #bb3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,footnote #bc3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,footnote #bd3 ,figs4 #ch & #ci4 ,footnote #be3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,footnote #bf3 ,see ,fig4 #cf1 & rem>ks !reon4 ,footnote #bg3 ,fig4 #da4 ,footnote #bh3 ,fig4 #db4 ,footnote #bi3 ,see ,fig4 #bi4 ,footnote #cj3 ,see ,*apt] ,v4 ,footnote #ca3 ,page #bjb4 ,footnote #cb3 ,a ,treatise on ! ,use & ,managem5t ( a ,razor1 by ,mr4 ,savigny4 ,footnote #cc3 ,olive-oil 7:ite ,ca/ile7 soap1 or almond oil soap is "h int5d$4 ,x %\ld be mod]ately dry :5 weigh$1 next r$uc$ to ?9 %av+s1 & !n fur!r desiccat$ by exposure to w>m1 dry air1 b no artificial heat %\ld be employ$4 ,by replac+ a portion 7say "o-?ird7 ( ! above ) an equal weight ( dry1 :ite tall[ soap 7i4e41 curd soap7 ! 8la!r+0 quality ( ! ess5ce w be increas$4 ,w]!im]1 ,lea ,co41 ,pr9t]s1 ,circus ,place1 ,london ,wall4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,adv]tisem5ts4 ,r4 ,,hov5d5 ,,sons1 #ca #cb1 ,,b]n]s ,,/41 ,,ox=d ,,/41 ,w41 ,,& #ia1 #ic1 #ie1 ,,city ,,road1 ,e4,c41 ,,london4 ,,hair ,,m]*ants ,,manufactur]s ,:olesale ,p]fum]s1 ,,fancy ,,soap ,,mak]s ,,& ,,g5]al ,,w>eh\sem5 ,,= ,,hairdress]s4 ,import]s ( ,ess5tial ,oils1 ,sponges1 ,fr5* ,pomades ,oils1 ,fancy ,combs1 ,etc4 ,,! ,,l>ge/ ,,& ,,mo/ ,,complete ,,/ocks ,,9 ,,london ,,( ,,manufactur$ ,,hair1 ,trimm+s1 ,p>t+s1 ,ornam5tal ,hair1 ,,combs ,,9 ,,horn1 ,,%ell1 ,,rubb]1 ,,hair1 ,,too?1 ,,nail ,,clo? ,,bru%es1 ,,cutl]y1 ,,mirrors1 ,,hairdress]s' ,,tools1 ,,& ,,%ampoo+ ,,requisites4 ,propriet>y ,articles ,9 ,p]fum]y ,kept 9 ,/ock or procur$ at %ort notice4 ,,no ,,travell]s repres5t ! ,firm4 ,_! enorm\s exp5ses be+ avoid$1 ,r4 ,h4 ,,sons c (f] _! ,goods f #aj to #bj p] c5t1 bel[ ^? ,h\ses :o employ !m4 ,,illu/rat$ ,,catalogue ,,po/ ,,free ,,^u ,,receipt ,,( ,,bus9ess ,,c>d ,,or ,,invoice ,,head+4 ,,e/abli%$ #ahdf4 ,,edw9 ,,cre]1 ,hairdress]1 ,wig-,mak]1 ,manufactur+ ,p]fum]1 ,,mak] ,,( ,,*ignons1 ,,twi/s1 ,,swit*es1 ,,plaits1 ,,curls1 ,,& ,,all ,,k9ds ,,( ,,ornam5tal ,,hair4 #ehi1 ,,comm]cial ,,road ,,ea/1 ,,london1 ,e4 ,illu/ration3 #ehi1 ,,comm]cial ,,road ,,ea/1 ,,london1 ,e4 ,deal] 9 ,combs1 ,bru%es1 ,fancy ,goods1 & o!r ,requisites = ! ,toilet4 ,,pomades1 ,,oils1 ,,wa%es1 ,,p]fumes1 ,,p[d]s1 ,,hair ,,dyes ,,& ,,re/or]s1 ,,etc4 ,illu/ration ,,arti/ ,,9 ,,hair--,,e/abli%$ #ahdf4 ,,edw9 ,,cre]1 #ehi1 ,,comm]cial ,,road ,,ea/1 ,,london1 ,e41 ,,manufactures ,,all ,,k9ds ,,( ,,hair ,,jewell]y ,,= ,,! ,,trade1 ,r+s1 ,broo*es1 ,bracelets1 ,wat*-,gu>ds1 c41--& ,device-,"w ( e description4 ,be/ "w gu>ante$1 & at ! l[e/ possible prices4 ,no4 #a4 ,hair1 ,gold ,top #bs4 #c;d4 ,no4 #b4 ,all ,gold1 ) ,hair ,plait & ,he>t or ,%ield ,top #fs4 #f;d4 ,no4 #c4 ,alb]t ,gu>d1 ) ,gold ,m\nt+s #aes4 #f;d4 ,lett]s ( inquiry1 z well z o!rs reque/+1 price li/ & designs1 %\ld enclose a bus9ess c>d1 & a ,,/amp = reply4 ,,t]ms--,,ca% ,,on ,,or ,,be=e ,,deliv]y4 ,,hairdress]s ,,ab\t ,,comm5c+ ,,bus9ess ,z well z ^? already e/abli%$1 ,,w ,,f9d ,,at ,r4 ,,hov5d5 ,,sons' ,,w>eh\ses ,,! ,,be/ ,,selection ,,( ,,scissors1 ,,combs1 ,,razors1 ,,bru%es1 ,,t[els1 ,,%ampoo+ ,,app>atus1 ,& e requisite = ! ,trade at ,prices :i* ,,defy ,,competition4 ,r4 ,,hov5d5 ,,sons ,hold ! l>ge/ ,/ock ( ,human ,hair 9 ! ,k+dom4 ,,patt]ns ,,mat*$1 ,&1 except 9 extraord9>y col\rs1 s5t p] ,,return ,,( ,,po/4 ,,!atrical ,,hair--,a ,,speciality4 ,curr5t ,prices are adv]tis$ 9 ,! ,hairdress]s' ,*ronicle4 ,,price ,,li/ ,,po/ ,,free ,,on ,,application4 ,r4 ,,hov5d5 ,,sons1 ,,london4 ,r4 ,,hov5d5 ,,sons' ,sev5-,gu9ea ,complete ,outfit4 s4 d4 #a ,fr5* ,poli%$ ,%av+ ,*air #j #ae #f #a ,fr5* ,poli%$ ,%ampoo ,/& #b #g #j #a ,m>ble ,back ,slab = #j #e #j #a ,ebonis$ ,frame ,mirror1 #cf 94 by #bj 94 #j #ae #j #a ,outside ,projection ,tablet #j #g #j #a ,gas ,/ove #j #d #j #a ,t9 ,%av+ ,pot1 = ditto #j #b #i #a ,buff ,lea!r ,/rop #j #a #j #ab ,turki% ,%ampoo+ ,t[els #j #g #j #b ,haircutt+ ,clo?s #j #e #j #b ,%av+ ,clo?s #j #b #f #b ,aprons #j #b #f #b ,bl\ses #j #g #j #a ,pair ,curl+ ,irons #j #a #j #d ,b>s ,%av+ ,soap #j #a #j #a ,spray ,produc] & ,bottle #j #a #f #a ,pair ,saloon ,bru%es #j #b #f #a ,%av+ ,bru% #j #j #h #a ,%av+ ,b[l #j #j #f #a ,neck ,bru% #j #j #h #a ,box & ,puff #j #j #f #b ,cutt+ ,combs #j #a #j #b ,razors 7,voogd's7 #j #e #j #b ,pairs ,cutt+ ,scissors #j #e #j #a ,hone #j #b #f #a ,bottle ,hair ,oil #j #a #h #a lb4 ,violet ,p[d] #j #j #i #a ,bottle ,bay ,rhum #j #j #h #b ,bottles ,lime & ,glyc]9e #j #j #f #b ,cosmetics #j #j #d ---- ---- ---- #g #g #j ,^! ,goods are always 9 ,/ock1 & may be select$ f a great v>iety4 ,we %all be glad to s5d e/imates = l[] or high] pric$ outfits4 ,r4 ,,hov5d5 ,,sons1 ,,london4 ,r4 ,,hov5d5 ,,sons h always 9 ,/ock a l>ge assortm5t ( ,tools & ,fitt+s suitable = ,bo>d-"w4 ,a full ,li/ w be f\nd 9 _! ,,annual ,,catalogue4 ,,curl+ ,,irons f #aj;d4 to #b_/ ea*4 ,,p9*+ ,,irons f #a_/c to #d_/i ea*4 ,,crimp+ ,,irons f #b_/ to #i_/ ea*4 ,,screws ,,& ,,/icks #a_/ & #a_/f p] set4 ,,c>ds #a_/i1 #c_/f1 #i_/f ea*4 ,,m\nt+ ,,blocks #d_/f ea*4 ,,weav+ ,,silk #b_/ p] oz4 ,,sew+ ,,silk #b_/c p] oz4 ,,draw+ ,,bru%es f #f_/f to #aes4 p] pair4 ,,gauze ,,hooks1 ,,knott+ ,,ne$les1 ,,wig ,,nets 9 great v>iety4 ,r4 ,,hov5d5 ,,sons1 ,,london4 ,,voogd',s ,,specialities4 ,voogd's ,razors 7,regi/]$7 ,holl[ ,gr\nd4 ,^! ,razors1 if prop]ly /ropp$1 w we> = a consid]able l5g? ( "t1 & are /rongly recomm5d$ = trade use4 ,made ) ,squ>e1 ,r\nd1 or ,iri% ,po9ts1 9 #e sizes1 viz41 941 941 941 94 & #a 94 ,,price1 any size1 ,black ,h&les1 #cjs4 p] doz54 ,,price1 any size1 ,ivory ,h&les1 up to 941 #dds4 p] doz54 ,,voogd',s ,,scissors4 ,) ,f+] ,re/s1 #f1 #g1 & #g ins41 #cbs41 #chs41 & #dds4 p] doz54 ,) ,flat ,%anks4 #f1 #g1 & #g ins41 #bds41 #cjs41 & #cfs4 p] doz54 ,to avoid imitations see t bo? ,razors & ,scissors are /amp$ ) ! ,regi/]$ m>k1 ?us-- ,illu/ration3 ,,voogd ,dept3 ,r4 ,,hov5d5 ,,sons1 ,london ,p>is4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,transcrib]',s ,,notes #a4 ,sil5tly correct$ typographical errors & v>iations 9 spell+4 #b4 ,reta9$ ana*roni/ic1 non-/&>d1 & unc]ta9 spell+s z pr9t$4 #c4 ,enclos$ italics font 9 und]scores4 #d4 ,enclos$ bold font 9 equals4