,hathi,trust ,digital ,library47 ,illustration3 ,yours truly1 ,edwin ,creer ,,board-,,work2 ,,or ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,wig-,,making1 ,,etc4 ,,designed ,,for ,,the ,,use ,,of ,,hairdressers ,,and ,,especially ,,of ,,young ,,men ,,in ,,the ,,trade4 ,,to ,,which ,,is ,,added ,,remarks ,,upon ,,razors1 ,,razor-,,sharpening1 ,,razor ,,strops1 ,,miscellaneous ,,recipes1 ,,specially ,,selected4 ,,by ,,edwin ,,creer1 ,,editor ,,of 8,,the ,,hairdressers' ,,chronicle10 ,,author ,,of 8,a ,,popular ,,treatise ,,on ,,the ,,human ,,hair10 8,,lessons ,,in ,,hairdressing10 ,,etc4 ,,with ,,portrait ,,and ,,numerous ,,illustrations4 ,,london3 ,r4 ,,hovenden ,,sons1 #ca #cb1 ,,berners ,,street1 ,w41 ,,and #ia1 #ic1 #ie1 ,,city ,,road1 ,e4,c4 #ahhg4 ,,london3 ,,printed ,,by ,,wertheimer1 ,,lea ,,and ,,co41 ,,circus ,,place1 ,,london ,,wall4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,preface4 ,the following work1 which is the result of much anxious study and labour1 is designed to meet a long-felt want4 ,it is intended chiefly for the use of apprentices1 improvers1 and others in the trade whose knowledge of board-work is deficient4 ,the ,author trusts that the efforts he has thus made to disseminate sound and useful information will be appreciated by those for whom the book is intended4 ,the greater portion of the matter has been already published in ,the ,hairdressers' ,chronicle1 but for the purposes of this work it has been carefully collated1 revised1 and additions made1 so that the subject might be presented to the trade in a complete form4 ,nothing of importance to learners has been omitted1 and the ,author has dwelt1 with repeated emphasis1 upon items which might be considered by some1 as minor details2 but every skilled workman knows how necessary it is for pupils to be well grounded in the rudiments of their art4 ,it may be taken for granted that he who habitually pays attention to small matters in connection with his business1 will be the one most depended upon by his employer4 ,but the advantage to be derived from such a course of action does not end here1 for should he embark in trade1 the careful and painstaking man is more likely to meet with a lasting success4 8,anything worth doing1 is worth doing well10 cannot be too deeply impressed upon the mind1 and those who studiously regard the maxim will take a pride in all they undertake4 ,undue haste in production must needs make careless workmen1 and1 perhaps1 excessively keen competition lies at the bottom of all4 ,the ,author has reason to know that a fair percentage of the public does not object to giving a reasonable price for a good article1 and it is worth while to cultivate such a class of customers4 ,the tradesman1 however1 must first acquire ability in his special walk in life2 no effort should be spared to secure the confidence of his patrons by upright dealing3 thus it is that reputations are made and sustained4 ,the public experiences no difficulty in procuring cheap articles2 those which are good in quality and reasonable in price may not be so easily obtainable4 ,all through this work1 the ,author has strenuously urged the reader to produce superior work as a tradesman1 and to practise fair dealing as a man1 and if these principles be acted upon1 the student1 for whose benefit this treatise is designed1 cannot fail to profit by this endeavour to serve him4 ,when the present phases of business1 and the keenness of competition are borne in mind1 the importance of every person acquiring knowledge in his craft will at once be appreciated4 ,in no sense more forcibly than this does the truth of the adage apply1 that 8,knowledge is power40 ,august1 #ahhg4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,page ,introduction--,a ,scientific ,description of ,hair--,chinese and ,japanese ,hair--,chiffonier ,hair--,waste ,hair--,turned ,hair--,combings--,best ,quality ,hair--,the ,hair ,market in ,brittany--,dr4 ,lindemann's ,gregarine--,the 8,chignon ,fungus0--,cuttings #a ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,the ,implements ,used in ,preparing ,hair--,the ,preparation of ,hair ,described--,washing the ,hair--,drying the ,hair--,drawing the ,hair--,nitting the ,hair--,carding the ,hair--,curling the ,hair--,boiling and ,baking the ,hair #ah ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,the ,preparation of ,hair 7continued7--,crop ,hair--,a ,remarkable ,trial--,craping and ,crimping the ,hair--,inserted ,stems--,boiling and ,baking ,crped ,hair--,combings and ,turned ,hair alluded to again #bi ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,dyeing the ,hair--,of ,hair-dyes generally--,powder ,dyes--,liquid ,dyes--,iron ,dyes--,lead ,dyes--,various opinions concerning the use of ,lead ,dyes--,silver ,dyes--,dyeing ,false and ,faded ,hair--,bleaching and ,blanching ,hair #db ,,chapter ,v4 ,the ,first ,lesson in ,wig-making1 ,weaving the ,hair--8,once ,in10 ,close or ,ringlet ,weft--8,twice ,in10 or ,front ,weft--8,thrice ,in10 ,crop1 or ,wig ,weft--8,fly0 ,weft1 for ,top ,rows--,making ,ringlet ,bunches--,tufts--,curls on ,combs--,alexandra ,curls #eg ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,making ,twists1 8,tails10 or ,switches--,back and ,side ,plaits--,chignon ,universel--,the ,zephyr ,coiffure--,semi-waved ,curled ,chignon--,a ,novel ,chignon--,of ,chignons in general #gc ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,scalpettes and ,fringes2 general remarks thereon--,curled and ,waved ,fringes--8,water ,waves0--,mounting and ,making ,scalpettes #ig ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,the ,changeability of ,fashion--,bandeaux1 ,fronts1 and ,fillets--,plain ,bandeaux--,waved ,bandeaux1 with ,fringe--,to ,wave the ,hair of ,bandeaux--,french 7woven7 ,fronts--,french 7woven7 ,fronts with ,parting--,diamond-shaped and ,wing ,fronts--,temple-mounted ,fronts--,fillets or ,cauls #aae ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,general ,observations on the ,manufacture of ,partings and ,crowns--,non-transparent ,partings2 ,silk and ,skin--,transparent ,partings2 ,net1 ,gauze1 ,yak1 and ,human ,hair ,foundations--8,the ,genealogy of ,implantation0--,knotting1 and some remarks thereon--,single ,knotting--,double ,knotting #adc ,,chapter ,x4 ,of ,wigs in ,general1 and some ,historical remarks thereon--,on ,taking an ,order for a ,wig or ,scalp--,means adopted for securing them to the ,head--,directions for ,measurement--,on ,mounting and ,making a ,scalp--8,pen-knife0 and ,metallic ,springs--,a ,scalp described with ,parting and ,crown--,scalps with ,gauze1 ,net1 and ,human ,hair ,foundations #aeg ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,of ,gentlemen's ,wigs1 and a few additional observations thereon--,to make a strong and durable ,wig with woven ,hair throughout--,mounting a ,wig--,the ,metallic ,spring again--,various kinds of ,net used--,caution against using too much ,hair--,sewing on the ,weft--,the ,crown made with ,weft--,the ,parting formed with ,weft--,pressing the ,work--,of ,elastic ,springs--,the ,wig completed #aha ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,of ,gentlemen's ,wigs 7continued7--,difference between ,woven and ,knotted ,wigs considered--,instructions for ,making a ,knotted ,wig--,of the ,parting and ,crown--,of the ,crown only--,pressing1 ,dressing1 etc4--,a ,superior kind of ,wig ,described1 and ,making the same--,the ,transparent ,parting and ,crown--,sundry ,important ,details #aie ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,of ,ladies' ,wigs1 and important remarks thereon--,of ,mounting and ,making ,ladies' ,wigs--,a well-balanced ,wig essential--,a ,wig with ,parting and ,straight ,hair throughout--,all ,weft to be concealed--,alterations--,of ,wigs with ,transparent ,partings--,mounting and ,making the same--,shape of ,head to be noted1 together with any ,elevations or ,depressions--,the ,wig-block should be a correct ,model of the ,head #bji ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,the ,use of ,leather ,rollers in ,curling ,hair--,papering and ,pinching ,hair with the same object in view--,plaiting ,hair 7for ,coiffures7--,of ,razors1 ,razor ,setting1 and ,razor ,strops--,miscellaneous ,recipes #bbj ,,illustrations4 ,the four pages of illustrations are supplied for the purpose of giving the learner some designs to work from1 and1 as fashions repeatedly change1 the ability to make up sundry pieces of work is necessary and unquestionably useful4 ,a brief description of the illustrations will be found at the foot of each page4 ,,board-,,work1 ,,or ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,wig-,,making1 ,,etc4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,introduction--,a ,scientific ,description of ,hair--,chinese and ,japanese ,hair--,chiffonier ,hair--,waste ,hair--,turned ,hair--,combings--,best ,quality ,hair--,the ,hair ,market in ,brittany--,dr4 ,lindemann's ,gregarine--,the 8,chignon ,fungus0--,cuttings4 8,board-work10 in the fullest extent of its signification1 means all that which is done by clever hairdressers and wig-makers in the workshop and at the work-table4 ,it comprises the cleaning and preparing of hair for the articles intended to be made2 weaving2 sewing and knotting2 the making of fronts1 bands1 chignons1 curls and twists of various descriptions2 scalp-making2 ladies' and gentlemen's wig-making2 and numerous other matters of detail in connection with the subject4 ,that a treatise on this subject is required there cannot be a doubt1 for while haircutters and shavers continue to increase1 the clever worker at the board1 to a certain extent at least1 is gradually disappearing4 ,this may be considered a bold assertion1 but it is true nevertheless4 ,let me give an illustration in support of this statement1 and experienced men1 doubtless1 will coincide with my opinion4 ,it not unfrequently happens that when a youth has acquired a knowledge of men's haircutting and shaving1 he thinks himself tolerably clever and able to get his living4 ,if he be well proportioned and possess a kindly disposition1 such a youth is sure to obtain the favourable consideration of customers1 and come to believe1 perhaps1 that he is on the road to competency1 if not to fortune4 ,by the time he arrives at nineteen or twenty years of age he most likely desires a change1 and seeks another place1 and as he doubtless will get 8a rise10 some encouragement is given to his views by indiscreet acquaintances4 ,numerous advertisements constantly appear for 8a good haircutter and shaver1 with a knowledge of board-work10 and the young man forthwith applies for the situation1 and obtains it--the 8knowledge of board-work0 required being1 not unfrequently1 of a trivial and elementary character4 ,and thus he goes on till opportunity offers for further advancement1 or going into business1 when he discovers the want of 8technical instruction40 ,unfortunately1 apprenticeship is thought to be 8old-fashioned10 and a lad now-a-days thinks he can acquire as much trade knowledge in four years as his master did in seven4 ,but such an idea is1 unmistakably1 8a delusion and a snare10 and thus it comes to pass that many men seek to acquire at thirty what they should have learnt ten or a dozen years before4 ,the foregoing remarks would apply equally as well to other trades1 and thoughtful men regard this aspect of affairs with some degree of anxiety and apprehension1 hence the desire for 8technical instruction10 promoted as it is by some of the ,city ,guilds4 ,i have reason to know that the book entitled 8,lessons in ,hairdressing0 is highly appreciated by many1 both employers and employed1 and ,i trust that 8,board-work10 which ,i shall endeavour to make as complete as possible1 will be equally as acceptable to the trade4 ,the letterpress descriptions will be given in a comprehensive manner1 and where the intricacies are somewhat complicated or obscure1 well-drawn illustrations will accompany the text4 ,to those who wish to take advantage of my labours1 ,i will briefly say that no work1 however well written and carefully put together1 will impart ability without practice4 ,practice must be diligently pursued1 and thoughtfully brought to bear on the instruction given1 and a satisfactory result is sure to follow4 ,as well might a person1 after reading sundry works on music1 and becoming acquainted with the significations contained therein1 expect proficiency on a musical instrument1 as for any one to think of making a wig after reading 8how it's done40 ,proficiency in any art or trade can only be acquired by application and hard work4 ,the information it will be my pleasure to afford1 coupled with the industry and perseverance of the student1 must produce one result1 that being of an eminently satisfactory character4 ,hair is the substance with which my readers have to deal1 and the subject ,i have to write about4 ,hair--the theme of poets' song1 and the ambition of all true artists to well depict on canvas4 ,the crowning glory of woman is a fine head of hair1 and baldness only becomes age4 ,were a person to ask1 8,what is hair80 probably nineteen people out of every twenty would consider him an ignoramus1 but only let the querist press for a logical reply1 and he1 in turn1 might regard others in a similar light4 ,those employed in manufacturing trades ought surely to know some particulars concerning the chief material used in the business in which they are engaged4 ,unless this knowledge be imparted to the apprentice or journeyman1 technical instruction in any trade cannot be complete4 ,physicians and surgeons undergo a long and anxious training before they are qualified to deal with the numerous ills 8that flesh is heir to40 ,dentists1 aurists1 ophthalmists1 chemists1 lawyers1 and many others have to master the details of their respective occupations1 before they are regarded as competent men4 ,it is somewhat surprising to witness the intelligence and knowledge brought to bear upon sundry manufactures1 and a few visits to some of our workshops and hives of industry in ,london and the provinces1 would prove a source of pleasure and instruction4 ,i maintain that a scientific as well as practical knowledge of the materials used in any occupation1 is essential to the welfare of the clever workman2 therefore1 before proceeding farther with the object ,i have in view1 ,i consider it necessary to answer the question--,what is ,hair8 ,hair is distributed over all parts of the body1 with the exception of the palms of the hands1 soles of the feet1 and the lips4 ,it grows abundantly upon the head and face1 and sparingly upon the trunk and limbs1 and according to its location1 differences are observed in shape1 size1 colour1 and structure4 ,with reference to the structure1 ,i may observe that a hair has three different modifications of tissue1 viz41 its centre1 which constitutes the medulla1 or pith1 and is a loose cellulated tissue2 that which encloses it forming a greater portion of a human hair called a fibrous tissue2 and the outer sheath1 cuticle or external surface1 which is of a horny description4 ,hairs are somewhat cylindrical in shape1 but not exactly round1 and curly or waved hair is rather flat4 ,sometimes a hair is described as being hollow1 but this is incorrect1 for it not only has a cortical 7or external7 structure1 but a medullary 7or internal7 substance4 ,the first is similar to that which may be described as the bark of a tree1 and the second to the pith of vegetable substances1 the internal portions of feathers1 or to the marrow in bones4 ,but it is right to observe that when a hair is viewed under a microscope with a low power it appears dark at the sides and bright in the middle1 and that appearance would convey the idea of hollowness4 ,this impression prevailed for a length of time1 and justified the humble barber in stating that 8the 'air of the 'ed was a 'ollow tube40 ,he simply reiterated a statement which other1 and probably wiser1 heads had given currency to4 ,when the cortical structure of the human hair is examined it is found to be jagged like the teeth of a saw1 and it is owing to this imbricated arrangement that hair feels rough to the touch when the hand is passed from point to root4 ,the serrated appearance of hair is produced through the outer layer1 or cuticle1 being composed of flattened cells1 or scales1 which overlap each other like the scales of fishes1 only they are not so regularly placed4 ,the medulla1 also1 consists of a number of cells1 which can be seen in hair that has been steeped for a time in soda or potash4 ,these ceils are found to be angular or rounded1 and if the immersion has not been too prolonged1 will exhibit a nucleus1 and one or more globules1 or granules of fat4 ,the medulla forms a dark line passing along the centre of the hair1 and occupies about a fourth or a fifth of its thickness4 ,the medullary line is absent in infants' hair1 and in very fine light hair2 it is present in strong hair1 and is not difficult to trace in white or grey hair4 ,dr4 ,beigel observes1 that 8we may drive out the air contained in the central tube--as the medullary has likewise been called--and see it re-enter again under the microscope4 ,turpentine penetrates all parts of the hair which are filled by air1 but its action is slow and requires some time4 ,if we put1 therefore1 a hair into turpentine1 and allow it to remain therein about twenty-four hours1 and view it by the microscope1 we find the central tube1 which was black before being acted upon by turpentine1 light1--perfectly transparent4 ,but if we expose the hair again to a high temperature1 the turpentine evaporates1 and is replaced by air1 consequently the central tube assumes its dark appearance again40 ,it is said that 8nature abhors a vacuum10 and1 it will perhaps be thought that the barber's description of a hair was not so very far removed from the truth after all4 ,this description of hair is extracted from a lecture which ,i delivered to the members of the ,british ,hairdressers' ,academy and their friends1 at the ,rooms1 ,new ,bond ,street1 a few years ago1 and the importance of a correct knowledge of this branch of the subject will be apparent before my book is ended4 ,every hairdresser knows that if his work is to be good1 he must use only hair of the best quality in his business2 ,chinese hair1 ,japanese hair1 8,chiffonier0 hair1 8,waste0 hair1 8,combings10 8,root and ,point0 hair1 or 8,turned0 hair1 however cleverly it may be treated to produce fineness 7being afterwards dyed perhaps to impart the desired shade or colour71 can only bring forth one result1 and that of an unsatisfactory character4 ,competition1 and the desire for cheapness1 fostered as it is by the encroachments of other trades1 all tend to the manufacture of goods 8to sell10 regardless of any other consideration2 and the introduction of inferior material and workmanship1 might thus be accounted for4 ,the study of hair1 and the condition it should be in when made up and offered for sale1 is of such importance that ,i consider some further remarks on the subject necessary4 8,if a thing is worth doing at all it is worth doing well20 therefore ,i address myself to those who take an interest in the business and desire to improve it1 more than ,i do to persons who vend almost anything 8for a consideration40 ,allusion has been made to various qualities of human hair1 and ,i refer to them again for the purpose of pointing out what should be avoided by respectable and reputable tradesmen4 8,chinese0 and 8,japanese0 hair is coarse1 strong and abundant1 and unsuited to the ,english people2 but it can be treated so as to make it passable amongst persons of 8economic0 proclivities4 ,one thing is certain1 and that is1 ,chinese hair finds its way into the market1 for in #ahgb no less than #ajj1jjj lbs4 of human hair was received at ,marseilles1 the principal portion of which came from the ,celestial ,empire4 8,paris owns10 says ,mr4 ,p4 ,l4 ,simmonds1 in his excellent book on 8,waste ,products and ,undeveloped ,substances10 8among its street curiosities1 a race as distinct from the elements of social life as the roving gipsies who have clung together and run over ,europe for centuries4 ,consequently1 its manners widely differ from those of the common run of mankind4 ,these heteroclites are a species of night-birds of the human race2 everything about them reminds you of dark shades and fantastic silhouettes2 they sleep at daytime1 and spring out of the earth when twilight sets2 no one could say whence they come and whither they go4444 ,they move about the deserted streets like a horde of phantoms2 the lanterns they hold shine dimly and fluctuate to and fro in essentially supernatural zigzags4 ,the chiffonier has a basket strapped to his shoulders2 he creeps along the asphalte like a wolf in a sheepfold2 whoever ignores his attributions would think him bent on grievous mischief2 he holds an iron hook1 and stops at every heap of rubbish4 ,parisians are still in the habit of accumulating their refuse before their doors4 ,the iron hook goes to work busily in the cabbage-leaf1 rag1 and broken-glass hillocks1 while the light of the lantern shows the basket-owner what is worth taking1 and then the hook transfers the rubbish to the basket over the man's shoulder40 ,among the hundred and one things which these people find is 8waste10 or 8chiffonier0 hair3 and regarding this ,i will make a quotation from another reliable source4 ,m4 ,alphonse ,bouchard1 writing on the subject in ,the ,hairdressers' ,chronicle1 in the year #ahgc1 and at a time when hair was scarce in consequence of the then prevailing fashion1 says3-- 8,the hair that has fallen off is carefully collected by men who make this work their special business4 ,they despise that which their brethren of the rag eagerly search for4 ,bones1 rags of every description1 fragments of crystal1 broken glass1 old iron1 old newspapers1 all these are neglected and despised by these specials4 ,see them bent over a pile of rubbish1 which often contains little else but cabbage refuse and a few broken corks4 ,they bend over it and kneel over it as intently as if they were looking for the philosopher's stone1 when suddenly we see them draw from the midst the little balls of hair which nearly every woman makes of the hair-combings4444 8,but let us follow ,m4 ,denizet1 the author of a remarkable work on #8,waste ,hair1' in these developments10 continues ,m4 ,bouchard4 8,this writer tells us that the plaits or small chignons1 and which are consequently cheap1 weigh from #fj to #hj grammes1 and that in every one of them there is contained hair from more than two hundred persons4 ,the following is their origin and manufacture4 ,in the issues of the toilet of these two hundred women of all ages and stations1 the hair of the middle-class woman is first observed4 ,these women are in the habit of rolling the combings over their fingers1 then putting them into a small piece of paper1 so that they do not fly away1 and this hair is found in the sweepings of the house4444 ,in the state in which the hair leaves the bag of the collector it seems good for nothing4 ,people in general would not like to touch it1 and yet of this refuse the cheap postiches are made which adorn the heads of persons who will not pay the price of hair cut off from the head40 ,in speaking of the several operations which this hair has to go through1 my esteemed ,parisian correspondent quotes ,m4 ,denizet almost verbatim4 8,the waste1 seemingly without value1 is sold at six francs a kilogramme to wholesale dealers1 who sell it again1 just as it was purchased1 at nine francs1 to small manufacturers1 who work it1 and then it is sold to certain hair-merchants1 who in their turn send it to small hairdressers1 both at home and abroad4 ,the work of the small manufacturer consists in five principal operations1 which are3--#a4 ,the ,cleansing4--,the hair is rolled and twisted about in sawdust to free it from dirt1 dust1 and grease4 ,it is then opened by hand4 #b4 ,the ,combing4--,the hair having been well disentangled1 stretched1 cleaned1 and freed from grease1 by means of black soap or certain chemical substances1 is dried1 and then combed in large cards with iron points1 the same as are used for mattress-wool2 this operation is done very carefully1 to prevent the hair from being broken4 #c4 ,turning4#a--,starting upon the principle that the hair is a conical tube1 which tapers off from the root to the point1 a piece of hair of the thickness of a finger is rolled forwards and backwards between the hands4 ,the piece elongates1 the hair going in different directions1 according as the root or point is situated4 ,they are then easily separated1 and put once again root to root and point to point1 and this is the reason why it is called #8turned hair4' #d4 ,classing4--,there are only three lengths made of this hair1 that which is used for plaits1 for chignons of all kinds1 and for men's wigs4 ,the refuse from these four operations is about half of the whole quantity in weight1 and is good for nothing4 #e4 ,picking the ,colour4--,this work requires the most patience1 and is generally performed by women4 ,it consists in dividing the hair according to colours4 ,as there are seven principal colours and three lengths1 each packet is divided into twenty-one portions4 ,the shades are white1 grey1 black1 brown1 chestnut1 blonde1 and red4 ,the lengths vary from twenty centimetres to seventy centimetres4 ,having passed through these different operations1 the hair is ready for use in postiches40 ,from about this time1 then1 8root and point0 hair1 8turned0 hair1 and so forth came into requisition1 and ,english 8combings0 followed as a matter of course4 ,nowadays ladies save the 8waste0 hair which has been removed by the action of comb and brush1 and when the mass has assumed somewhat large proportions it is taken to a hairdresser's to be made up1 and emanates therefrom in the shape of a plait1 twist1 c4 ,to show that ,i am not alone in regarding the use of this inferior hair with aversion1 ,i will quote the following from the ,american ,hairdresser and ,perfumer3-- 8,this fact alone1 namely1 the general and almost universal use of the filthy and unwieldy substitutes for first quality cut hair1 known as #8,italian1' #8refined ,china1' #8unrefined ,china1' #8,georgia' 7refined ,china under another name71 and all the grades of #8second' and lower qualities1 all this has done more towards disgusting our better class of people 7those who have the means at command7 with wearing false hair than any prevailing style or notion could have done40 ,there is much truth in this1 and ,i commend the further consideration of the subject to the serious attention of all who desire to advance and benefit the trade4 ,having given a description of hair1 and spoken disapprovingly of the commoner sorts1 ,i purpose considering the better qualities before dealing with more practical details4 ,if the maker of an article wishes his work to be of a superior description he must necessarily confine himself to the use of good materials1 and the fine quality of the hair used is of the greatest importance4 ,i will observe that hair should always be cut from the head1 for then it is in good condition and very different to the 8dead0 hair which is thrown off daily by most people1 and is now well known under the common appellation of 8combings40 ,hair of the best description is obtained from ,france and ,italy1 whence come sundry shades of black and brown4 ,the first-named country1 as well as ,germany and ,sweden1 supplies the market with brown1 light1 flaxen1 and red hair1 while grey pieces are to be found in most parcels1 consequently its source may be described as universal4 ,there are regular 8hair-harvests10 and agents or collectors travel from place to place at certain times1 for the purpose of obtaining the hair of peasant-girls in exchange for money1 trinkets1 or other articles of personal adornment4 ,mr4 ,francis ,trollope1 in his 8,summer in ,brittany10 gives an amusing as well as interesting account of what he observed at a fair in ,collene1 and its relation here will be appropriate4 ,he says3--8,what surprised me more than all1 by the singularity and novelty of the thing1 were the operations of the dealers in hair4 ,in various parts of the motley crowd there were three or four purchasers of this commodity1 who travel the country for the purpose of attending the fairs and buying the tresses of the peasant-girls4 ,they have particularly fine hair1 and frequently in the greatest abundance4 ,i should have thought that female vanity would have effectually prevented such a traffic as this being carried to any extent2 but there seemed to be no difficulty in finding beautiful heads of hair perfectly willing to sell4 ,we saw several girls sheared1 one after the other1 like sheep1 and as many more standing ready for the shears1 with their caps in their hands1 and their long hair combed out and hanging down to their waists4 ,some of the operators were men1 and some women4 ,by the side of the dealer was placed a large basket1 into which every successive crop of hair1 tied up into a wisp1 was thrown4 ,no doubt the reason of their indifference to their tresses on the part of the fair ,bretonnes is to be found in the invariable mode which covers every head1 from childhood upwards1 with close caps1 which entirely prevent any part of the hair from being seen1 and1 of course1 as totally conceal the want of it4 ,the money given for the hair is about twenty sous1 or else a gaudy cotton handkerchief2 they net immense profits by their trips through the country40 ,this hair is1 as ,i am informed1 the finest and most silken black hair that can be procured4 ,preparing hair requires careful manipulation1 for unless it be properly cleaned and drawn off into the required lengths1 the particular work in hand stands a chance of being spoiled4 ,only fancy making a silk or skin parting with hair that has been imperfectly cleaned2 the result can easily be imagined2 or a sensitive lady's surprise and disgust should she discover a 8nit0 upon her torsade or plait4 ,while mentioning this1 ,i cannot help calling to mind the exaggerated and untruthful statements which were made some years ago in reference to ,dr4 ,lindemann's alleged discovery of 8gregarines0 upon false hair1 and their rapid procreation4 ,the effect produced was most prejudicial to hairdressers1 until1 after a few weeks had elapsed1 it came to be regarded as 8one of those things which no fella could understand40 ,let me here observe that ,i have not seen a gregarine1 neither have ,i been able to procure one from the source indicated by the learned ,russian professor1 nor could ,i ever meet with a scientific gentleman who had a specimen of the kind in his possession4 ,indeed1 ,i might go a little farther1 and say that ,i have been unable to discover any one who has even seen a gregarine1 although the 8,micrographic ,dictionary0 informs me that they are to be obtained from about eighty different sources4 ,such1 then1 is their insignificant character and appearance when viewed under a powerful glass4 ,this scare was soon followed by the so-called 8chignon fungus10 which brought forth a most interesting disquisition upon the subject by ,dr4 ,tilbury ,fox1 at one of the learned societies2 but the fungoid growth that was found upon a particular piece of hair had nothing whatever to do with a chignon1 as an examination of a portion of the same hair now in my possession would readily prove4 ,the good condition of hair is taken into consideration by professional hair merchants1 for their very success in business depends on the unmistakably clean and glossy appearance of the article in which they deal4 ,i would urge1 therefore1 all hairdressers who carry on a respectable trade1 and are desirous of improving it1 to purchase hair of first-rate quality only1 and only to buy it of those who study to well prepare it for their use4 ,they should avoid1 if possible1 having anything to do with the common rubbish which now and again finds its way into the market1 and will thus be able to give a good article for a fair and remunerative price4 ,it may be said1 however1 that all in the hairdressing profession are not able to go or send to some dept in the vicinity for every little requirement2 neither is it convenient for them to keep in stock hair of every shade or length4 ,besides1 they may have a quantity of 8cuttings0 7not 8combings10 mark you67 which should be utilised and1 after careful treatment1 made up for sale4 ,it is1 then1 to such tradesmen that ,i desire to speak1 and hope my remarks will be found useful in the course of their business career4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,the ,implements ,used in ,preparing ,hair--,the ,preparation of ,hair ,described--,washing the ,hair--,drying the ,hair--,drawing the ,hair--,nitting the ,hair--,carding the ,hair--,curling the ,hair--,boiling and ,baking the ,hair4 ,i will assume that the larger portion of my readers are well acquainted with the various implements and tools used in the trade1 but as this book will1 no doubt1 be brought prominently under the notice of apprentices and improvers1 a brief description of such things is not altogether unnecessary4 ,a 8card0 is made with a thick wooden base1 into which a large number of steel prongs or spikes1 about two or three inches deep1 have been firmly set1 and it is used for carding or smoothing hair4 ,the possession of a pair of good drawing-brushes is also most important4 ,they should be large and heavy1 and well filled with the best bristles4 ,these brushes are made of various sizes1 but as they are so necessary and useful1 ,i would recommend the purchase of a good article1 and of fair proportions4#b ,a 8nitting machine0 reminds one of a small-tooth comb1 for its purpose is similar4 ,it is made of brass1 fitted with screws to be turned with the thumb and finger1 and these hold together or open at will a closely-set number of steel teeth4 ,this compact little instrument is intended to be fixed1 when in use1 to the front of the 8card10 so that the whole length of hair may be passed through it several times4 ,a 8jigger0 is wanted when piping or curling hair4 ,it is a piece of hard wood1 about seven or eight inches long1 three inches wide1 and half-an-inch in thickness4 ,there are to be three holes1 in the form of a triangle1 towards the upper end1 through which ordinary screws are passed to fix it securely to the work-table or bench4 ,about three inches of this piece of wood or 8jigger0 must be allowed to project1 and through the projecting part two holes are to be made in a line with each other4 ,a piece of strong string is to be passed through these two holes1 tied in a knot1 and extend to within a couple of inches of the floor4 ,the 8pipes10 for curling hair1 are about three-and-a-half inches in length1 and the thickness of a lead pencil4 ,formerly they were made of earthenware clay1 but common tobacco-pipe1 pieces of cane1 or1 better still1 willow1 with the bark stripped off1 answer every purpose4 ,in addition to the foregoing1 a dozen or more pieces of wood1 about twelve or fifteen inches long and one inch square1 will be required1 together with vessels for boiling hair1 tins or dishes for baking hair1 plenty of string1 a dressing comb or two1 scissors1 etc41 and an old razor-blade1 well-set in a handle1 allowing two inches of the blade to appear1 will all be useful4 ,soft soap1 and some of the best ,scotch soda1 together with hot and cold water1 must also be provided4 ,let me suppose that the reader has a small stock of hair by him1 which he is desirous of bringing into use4 ,it may have been accumulating for some time1 and is1 probably1 of divers lengths and colours4 ,it should be collected together1 and the first thing to do is to get the hair thoroughly clean1 so as to prepare it for after manipulation4 ,separate the different qualities first1 should there be any variation in that respect1 and put all the coarse hair into one lot1 and all the fine into another4 ,in the event of a piece of hair being rather more bulky than the rest1 divide it1 so as to have each piece about the same size and not any thicker than can be washed and dried in an easy1 as well as effectual manner4 ,tie every piece with string moderately tight and securely fastened1 but loose enough for the tie to slide up and down a little when the hair is being washed1 otherwise1 some portion of the hair will be clean1 and where tied1 dirty4 ,before washing1 it is better to give each piece a rough 8carding10 so as to prevent its matting together1 and probably breaking the longer hair in its disentanglement4 ,the foregoing instructions having been attended to1 provide two pails or basins of hot water--as hot as the hand can bear--and into each one put a tolerable quantity of soft-soap and soda--the best ,scotch soda if it can be obtained4 ,place a few pieces of the hair into one vessel to soak1 so that the dirt and grease upon it may be more easily removed4 ,take up one of the pieces1 and holding it as a boy would a stick1 between the thumb and fingers1 commence rubbing it in washerwoman style1 and1 at the same time1 working it gradually from one end to the other4 ,do not forget to slip the tie occasionally1 and if this process be carefully performed1 a great deal of the grease and dirt will have been removed4 ,this imperfectly cleaned piece can then be passed into the second vessel4 ,proceed in the same way throughout1 changing the water frequently1 or as soon as it becomes foul and unfit for use4 ,when all the hair has been washed twice in the manner described1 clean the pails or basins1 and fill them with fresh water--hot in one1 and tepid in the other4 ,this is for rinsing purposes1 and the last water must not be soapy1 for so long as that is the case other water must be procured4 ,it is of the utmost importance to remove all grease1 soap1 or dirt from the hair1 and the greatest particularity should be exercised in this preliminary operation4 ,the hair can be dried either in the sun1 in a warm room1 or before a fire4 ,if in the sun1 and1 of course1 in the open air1 each piece should be fastened separately to a line1 and left to blow about in the wind for a few hours1 or1 in other words1 till it is quite dry4 ,if the drying process be carried on in a warm room1 let the hair hang near to the ceiling1 and avoid making a dust3 but should an oven1 or drying before the fire1 be more convenient1 turn the hair frequently1 and mind it does not get scorched or burnt4 ,both these operations having been duly attended to1 see that the 8card0 and 8drawing-brushes0 are perfectly clean1 for the next process is that of drawing the hair4 ,i must now imagine that the various shades have been selected and placed in different lots1 such as natural blacks here1 dark browns there1 light browns1 reds1 greys1 and other shades or particular colours in separate and convenient places4 ,commence with the natural black hair4 ,take a piece and cut the string which binds it together1 hold the hair by the roots firmly in the right hand1 and make smooth by passing it gently through the 8card0 several times4 ,it may be necessary to reverse it1 but in that case hold it as near to the roots as possible1 so as to avoid wasting the short and finer hair1 which is to be found in every tress4 ,having done the carding1 remove the top 8drawing brush10 and place the piece of hair upon the underneath one1 the roots upon the brush1 the points being free and inclined towards you4 ,repeat this with a second1 third1 or fourth piece of hair1 until you have collected all of that particular shade together1 or until the brush is conveniently full4 ,then place the other brush on the top1 press down moderately tight1 and put a rather heavy weight upon it4 ,the brushes being before you1 the length of them extending from left to right1 the hair which is free being of varying lengths 7say7 from twenty inches up to the very short within the brushes1 it is now ready to be 8drawn40 ,the workbench or table should be bound with hoop-iron1 rising a quarter of an inch above the level1 to form a 8stop10 so that the brushes1 hair1 and weights may not be pulled off4 ,but if the table is not so made it will be necessary to provide a 8stop0 by means of nails or screws4 ,i have previously alluded to a dozen or more pieces of wood 7the length of the brushes71 twelve or fifteen inches long1 and one inch square1 and now ,i will describe their use4 ,assuming the longest hair in the brushes to be twenty inches1 four inches or more of which being securely held between them1 it follows that fifteen or sixteen inches must be free4 ,it is requisite to have the points of the hair projecting a little1 and only a little1 over the edge of the table4 ,the 8stop0 being at or near the edge cannot act as a check1 but by placing a sufficient number of these pieces of wood between the 8stop0 and the brushes1 they1 i4e41 the brushes1 can be made secure at any distance required4 ,take the old razor blade already spoken of 7which for convenience ,i will call a knife71 and commence 8drawing0 the hair in small portions of1 say1 one or two hundred hairs4 ,continue this1 holding the hair firmly in the left hand1 while the knife is in the right1 until a large quantity has been drawn off4 ,as the length of the hair diminishes1 so it will be necessary to remove one or more pieces of wood in order to keep the ends projecting1 as ,i have said before1 a little over the table's edge4 ,assuming that the brushes were tolerably well supplied with hair at the outset1 the hand is likely to get filled three or four times1 but each of these pieces of hair can be loosely tied for the present and put aside4 ,it is to be noted that the fastening will in this case be at the points instead of at the roots1 but that1 ,i need hardly say1 is simply for temporary convenience4 ,the drawing-brushes being again clear1 the same pieces are to have the tie cut and placed in regular order on the underneath brush--the longest hair being on the right1 the shortest on the left1 and the different lengths graduating between4 ,now put the other brush over all1 with weights upon the top to hold the hair secure4 ,let a sufficient number of slips of wood fill up the vacancy between the 8stop0 and the brushes1 while the ends of the longest hair project a little over the edge of the table4 ,remember that the roots of the hair are now before you1 and commence4 ,keep the roots even and clubbed1 but drawing until there is about a quarter of an ounce in the hand1 when it should be neatly and securely tied4 ,this is to be repeated until the whole of the hair placed in the brushes is finished4 ,of course1 as the hair diminishes1 one piece of wood after the other must be taken away1 and tresses of certain definite lengths will be the result4 ,these tresses can all be classified by putting the various lengths together1 thus--seven and eight-inch hair 7calling it eight71 nine and ten-inch hair 7calling it ten71 eleven and twelve-inch hair 7calling it twelve71 and so on4 ,the shortest and1 in all probability1 the finest hair in the brushes must also be drawn and firmly tied1 but ,i purpose dealing with that1 under the designation of 8crop0 hair1 in due course4 ,this process of drawing must be pursued1 until the entire quantity is disposed of4 ,having got the hair well washed1 and in regular order1 you must now make a careful examination to see whether there are any nits4 ,this is important1 for the most clever piece of work is spoiled in the estimation of people in general1 should they discover anything of the kind upon even one of the hairs4 ,to imagine that a mixed quantity of raw hair can be perfectly free from parasitic indications is a mistake which no respectable hairdresser would allow to occur4 ,true1 some hair goods are to be found in a condition the reverse of what they ought to be1 but these are generally offered for sale1 by not over-scrupulous tradesmen1 and purchased by customers of strong economical tendencies4 ,be that as it may1 it is requisite to examine the hair1 and any unsatisfactory or suspected pieces should be picked out4 ,now1 ,i will suppose that nits are observed upon half-a-dozen of these pieces1 and with them ,i purpose dealing4 ,fix the 8nitting machine0 to the front of the 8card0 in a secure manner1 and1 to prevent accidents1 it is most important this should be strictly attended to4 ,cut the tie3 firmly grasp the tress of hair1 and 8card0 it1 taking good care that each time it is made to pass through the machine also4 ,this is to be repeated until the nits are removed2 the hair being reversed occasionally to 8nit0 the other end4 ,it is worthy of remark that the eggs or nits of the common louse are observable to the naked eye2 they are of sugar-loaf form1 and generally deposited upon the hair with the narrow end pointing to the scalp4 ,hence it follows that by 8carding0 the hair the reverse way the nits are much more easily removed by this useful little machine1 which no hair-preparer should be without4 ,the teeth of the machine can be rendered fine or coarse 7as may be required7 by means of thumb-screws attached1 and this process being effectually performed1 the hair is now ready for further manipulation4 ,curled hair of ten1 twelve1 fourteen1 and sixteen inches long1 is most in request1 but longer or shorter can be curled1 if required4 ,i have already described a piece of hard wood called a 8jigger0 projecting from the work-table1 and some of the other requirements for 8piping0 or curling hair4 ,these ,i will suppose have been provided1 and sundry locks of hair selected4 ,take one of the pieces1 say1 for the sake of illustration1 weighing about a quarter of an ounce1 and see that it is well and securely tied4 ,moisten the right hand1 and rub the roots together to cause the hair to 8felt10 and prevent the tie slipping4 ,place the tied part on the 8jigger10 hold it by means of the string which passes through1 and press tight with the foot4 ,by this means the hair is1 as it were1 held in a vice4 ,comb it out and divide in two portions4 ,take one of the pieces of willow1 cane1 or whatever may be employed for the purpose1 technically called a 8pipe10 and a piece of rather stiff paper about #c inches by #b4 ,put the 8pipe0 upon the hair1 and the paper underneath1 holding both in their places by means of the thumb and fingers and pressing gently the while4 ,draw the two downwards till you get to the points1 and then commence to curl4 ,by a movement of the hands1 spread the hair a little1 holding it firm and tight until it is all rolled up4 ,take about a yard of string and tie the hair and 8pipe0 together1 by passing the string round one and then the other in such a way as to hold it firmly in its place without slipping1 and fasten off securely4 ,there is some art in doing this adroitly1 which is difficult to explain in writing1 but the reader should bear in mind that ,i am addressing those in the trade1 and probably an opportunity will now and then offer for a practical illustration by some experienced hand4 ,i have generally found it convenient to use all the straight hair in plaits1 twists1 etc41 in the course of my business1 and to purchase the curled hair ready prepared for use4 ,this cannot always be done1 especially by those who reside in distant parts1 but a little practice will soon enable an intelligent workman to overcome any difficulty that presents itself4 ,after the hair is rolled or curled up on 8pipes10 it has to be boiled and baked1 so as to 8fix the curl40 ,the hair should be boiled for an hour or more1 and afterwards allowed a brief period to drain4 ,while still warm it is to be put into trays or dishes and baked for several hours2 there are suitable ovens constructed for the purpose now-a-days1 but formerly the hair used to be embedded in dried sand and baked in a moderately cool baker's oven4 ,the whole lot of hair is to be strung together like ropes of onions afterwards1 and hung in a warm dry place for days or months till wanted4 ,in unrolling 7there being two curls to each tress7 one curl should be turned to the right and the other to the left1 and if this work be properly performed1 the hair will present a bright1 glossy appearance1 with a natural-looking and durable ringlet curl4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,the ,preparation of ,hair 7continued7--,crop ,hair--,a ,remarkable ,trial--,craping and ,crimping the ,hair--,inserted ,stems--,boiling and ,baking ,crped ,hair--,combings and ,turned ,hair alluded to again4 ,the shortest and finest hair is employed for gentlemen's wigs1 fringes1 8,sevigny0 curls1 and similar purposes4 ,there is frequently a natural inclination to curl in hair of this description1 but when coarse and strong1 it is best not to attempt to force it4 ,to make the curl take one of the pieces of fine hair1 and thoroughly wet it4 ,rub the roots with the palm of the hand as before1 so as to cause it to 8felt0 together4 ,have ready a smooth brass tool1 five or six inches long1 and in shape resembling the end of a steel used for sharpening knives4 ,with this 7and the thumb7 press the hair between1 giving the hair1 at the same time1 two or three turns round the tool2 draw away the instrument2 hold the curl between the thumb and finger1 and place it on an iron tray made for the purpose4 ,each curl is to be held in position by means of a small weight placed upon it1 and there must be a 8stop0 in the centre of the tray to prevent the curl unwinding4 ,the succeeding curl acts as a 8stop0 to its predecessor1 and when the tray is full1 it looks not unlike a dish of snails that has been prepared for some uncommon and remarkable feast4 ,it is not possible to boil this hair1 like that which is rolled upon 8pipes0 and securely fastened by means of pieces of string1 therefore it must be steamed before it is baked4 ,the steaming process can be done effectually in a small way with ordinary domestic utensils4 ,hair manufacturers would proceed somewhat differently1 and necessarily so1 because their work is extensive2 but ,i am addressing myself to hairdressers whose requirements are on a greatly reduced scale4 ,take a sufficiently large saucepan1 and put therein one of those three-legged iron rings upon which meat is placed when sent to the oven4 ,every good housewife will know what ,i mean4 ,on this stand put the tray containing the crop hair1 and surround the whole with water1 taking care1 however1 that none enters the tray4 ,put the lid on the saucepan2 boil for at least a quarter of an hour1 and by this simple arrangement the hair will be sufficiently well prepared for the baking process4 ,take the tray containing the hair carefully out1 and after allowing the steam to blow off1 a certain amount of dryness will follow1 when it can be baked in a cool oven1 or in front of a good fire--the oven of course being preferable4 ,when quite cold the weights are to be removed1 each curled lock of hair put into a box or drawer till wanted1 and1 above all1 it must be kept in a warm1 dry apartment4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,seven ,strand ,plait1 with ,fancy ,comb attached4 #b4 ,pin ,curl4 ,these curls are generally made upon hair-pins1 for which a small quantity of short frizzed1 or curled hair1 suffices4 #c1 #d1 #e4 ,human ,hair ,frizzetts1 for plaited ,chignons1 ,plicaturas1 c4 #f4 ,long ,plait1 for a coiled ,chignon when made upon the head4 ,when frizzets were used in the elaboration of a lady's coiffure1 as was the practice a few years ago1 several pieces of craped hair were all-important4 ,the trade done in both large and small frizzets1 pads1 stems for plicaturas1 twists1 and plaits was something enormous1 and quantities of a dyed material resembling hair were brought into requisition4 ,and this was absolutely necessary1 for the stock of human hair suitable for the purpose became exhausted4 ,a brief allusion to the important case of ,donisthorpe v4 ,jowett will not be out of place here1 as it is largely connected with the subject4 ,this action was tried in the ,court of ,exchequer1 and lasted six or seven days1 a full report of which appeared at the time4#c ,it was an action brought for the infringement of a patent process which related to crimping hair1 but more particularly applied to a dyed material largely used as a substitute4 8,i am afraid to mention to you10 said ,mr4 ,matthews1 ,q4,c41 in his opening address1 8the figures that have been laid before me as to the extent of the trade4 ,it is not pounds2 it is not hundredweights2 it is not tons nor hundreds of tons1 but it is hundreds of thousands of tons in which this crimped hair is sold in the ,english market40 ,but ,i need not stay to enter into the details of this remarkable suit2 it is sufficient for my purpose to show the enormous business that was done in these goods at one time4 ,i will turn1 therefore1 to the appliances which every hairdresser possesses1 or can easily obtain1 and deal with the crimping of human hair on a small scale4 ,the method generally adopted for craping or crimping hair is as follows3 ,take the screws and pegs used in weaving 7a description of which it is unnecessary to give1 for the weaving-frame must be known to nearly every hairdresser or barber in the kingdom71 and instead of silk1 wind string around the peg made for the purpose4 ,the string need not be thick1 but it ought to be strong1 and if a little stouter than ordinary shop-string1 so much the better4 ,when the frame is set up1 two strings instead of three 7the number usually employed in weaving71 are required4 ,put the hair to be used in the brushes in the usual way1 with sufficient weight thereon1 and commence by drawing out a moderately thick piece of hair technically called 8a weft40 ,i will take it for granted that the reader knows what coarse weft is1 in connection with weaving generally1 and the 8wefts0 used in crimping hair are to be decidedly coarse4 ,in this operation1 then1 the roots of the hair will be near the hand of the workman1 while the length of the hair 7whatever length it may be7 lies smoothly between the two brushes4 ,from the hair so placed draw out a weft1 push the root-end close up to the knot 7previously tied in the strings by way of a starting-point71 and hold it firmly with the thumb and finger of the left hand4 ,commence then to intertwine the free ends of the hair1 no matter how long it may be1 in and out in a regular1 firm1 and secure manner4 ,let me suppose that you are going to crape some six or eight-inch hair1 and that the root-end is being held between the strings as before described4 ,i will assume that the free hair inclines towards the right hand1 and is hanging down4 ,pass the root-end under the bottom string1 draw it through between2 turn it over the top one2 draw the roots towards you again1 and1 by a kind of twist1 change the position of the hair1 holding the root-end 7with the beginning of the crp7 in the left hand1 while the full length of the hair is free4 ,this is to be intertwined in a regular manner with the string till the ends are reached4 ,push up close towards the commencement or root1 and use a 8jockey0 to keep it1 as well as the end1 in place4 ,what is a 8jockey08 ,it is generally a piece of wood1 cardboard1 or any other rather hard substance1 used in weaving1 and found necessary when the hair is coarse and strong4 ,it is dexterously slipped between or upon the 8silks10 to keep the roots from springing up when each 8weft0 is placed in position4 ,in this instance1 ,i would suggest two pieces of firewood1 about an inch and a half or two inches long1 a quarter of an inch wide1 and flat1 tied securely together at the top1 somewhat expanding at the bottom1 and when made1 to look like a miniature clothes-peg4 ,with this little contrivance the end of the hair intertwined around the strings can be held in its place until the next 8weft0 is put in position1 when it is to be removed1 and proceed with the work as before described4 ,this process should go on until all the hair is used1 and there may be a yard1 or any quantity of craped hair made ready for the next operation4 ,hair of ten or twelve inches long is most suitable for making 8inserted stems40 ,tie up two strings as before described1 and knot them together at the commencement1 which is the starting-point in intertwining the hair4 ,the hair itself should be placed within the drawing brushes as before2 pull out thick 8wefts10 and work them upon the strings as previously described1 but with this difference1 they are only to be crimped or crped half way4 ,here is the mode of procedure--draw out a weft1 and hold one half of the length in your left hand1 while with the right you turn it over1 and under1 and between the strings in a methodical way1 as ,i have previously mentioned4 ,push up each piece as it is worked1 close and tight4 ,thus one half of the hair will be left hanging loose1 while the other half when the operation is completed will be crp or crimped4 ,assuming that the work is properly performed1 the next important part is the boiling and baking of it4 ,having craped all that is to be done1 cut down the strings1 and tie the free ends securely together4 ,have ready a clean saucepan 7it is best to keep one for the purpose7 fill it with either hot or cold water1 put the hair and string into it and boil for about a quarter of an hour4 ,then take it out1 let the steam evaporate1 and put it in a rather warm oven or before a good fire4 ,it should be well baked1 for the crimp is wanted to be durable2 therefore1 if kept in the oven for a day and night so much the better4 ,it can then be allowed to remain on the strings till wanted4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,a ,coronet ,plait4 #b4 8,catogan0 ,chignon2 being a twist and four-strand plait1 with ribbon bow4 #c4 ,the 8,dolly ,varden0 headdress4 #d4 ,marguerite ,plaits2 which can be made in any length of hair1 and are easily formed into ,coils1 c4 #e4 ,semi-covered ,stems1 otherwise 8inserted stems10 for plaited ,coils1 ,coronets1 c4 ,when the crimped hair is required for use--and ,i allude to the making of ordinary frizzets first--cut the strings at convenient places and pull them out4 ,have a 8card0 and 8drawing brushes0 handy1 and as each piece is carded1 spread it upon one of the brushes by means of a dressing comb1 and when conveniently filled put the other brush on the top1 with a sufficiently heavy weight to keep it in its place4 ,i need hardly say that the points are to be within the brushes1 while the root-ends must be left projecting out a little way1 as that will be found necessary and convenient4 ,with reference to the longer hair which has been prepared for making the inserted stems1 a similar course is to be pursued4 ,the plain or straight ends are to be within the brushes1 while the roots as in the previous case1 are to be left free1 say1 to the extent of half an inch4 ,having arrived at this point1 the next step is to weave the hair1 and the method of doing so will be described in due course4 ,i will remark here1 however1 that in weaving hair for frizzettes inserted stems1 c41 all the wefts must not be set one way1 as in the case when hair is woven for wigs1 fronts1 and curls1 but each weft must be set in a contrary direction1 i4e41 one up and the other down4 ,i shall be better able to describe this under the head of 8,weaving10 of which it will be necessary to give an illustration4#d ,there was a time1 and not many years ago either1 when such an announcement as 8,combings made up1 and the ,hair turned0 would have greatly astonished the trade and the public as well2 but now that kind of work is done in nearly every hairdresser's establishment1 be it large or small4 ,i have before alluded to the use of 8waste0 hair or 8combings0 in the manufacture of postiche1 as it is termed by ,parisian coiffeurs1 and 8false hair0 by the generality of people here1 and expressed my aversion to its employment4 ,hair that is cast off by a law of nature1 after illness1 accouchements1 and a variety of other causes1 cannot by any possibility be made equal in appearance and quality to the hair which is cut off from healthy heads4 ,then there is the customary loss of hair about the autumn season1 which may be regarded in a similar light to quadrupeds changing their coats1 and to birds moulting4 ,hair of this description is generally withered and dry1 through a want of sufficient nutrition1 which is the primary cause of its decay4 ,there is an old saying that 8the value of a thing is just as much as it will bring02 and to ascertain the value of 8combings0 from a commercial point of view1 let any one go to different shops and try to sell a paper-bagful4 ,the experiment is not likely to be repeated4 ,like a true artist1 ,i object to the use of inferior materials1 for however good the workmanship may be1 bad stuff will spoil the lot4 ,i have another objection to make1 for ,i consider that through the introduction of 8combings0 the sale of hair--good1 clean1 glossy hair--has fallen off1 and the hairdresser's profits diminished in like proportion4 ,nevertheless1 this inferior quality of hair is used1 and how to treat it in the most satisfactory way1 is what ,i have here to deal with4 ,in preparing this hair1 which generally comes to hand in a matted and tangled state1 the first thing to do is to 8card0 it1 and this should be done with small pieces at a time4 ,after which1 these pieces must be laid together until the whole is finished4 ,tie it in bunches of a convenient thickness1 and wash thoroughly as previously instructed4 ,it is then to be dried and drawn off in the usual way4 ,mostly it is made up into the required article without 8turning10 but it is not suitable for curls unless it is 8turned40 ,the process of turning hair is attended with some little trouble1 and various tradesmen have different ways of doing it4 ,of course the hair can be worked better when it is turned1 but1 as cheapness is the order of the day1 ,i suppose that where one piece of hair is 8turned10 nineteen other pieces do not undergo such careful manipulation4 ,in order to deal with this part of the business properly1 let me briefly recapitulate4 ,in describing the formation of hair1 and speaking of the cuticle1 or outer sheath1 ,i have said that it is of a horny description2 that hairs are somewhat cylindrical in shape 7excepting curly or wavy hair1 which is rather flat72 that the cortical structure of human hair is jagged like the teeth of a saw1 and that this serrated appearance is produced through the outer layer1 or sheath1 being composed of flattened cells or scales1 which overlap each other like the scales of fishes4 ,this can be seen by means of a good microscope1 and felt in passing hair quickly from point to root through the fingers4 ,by reversing the hair and drawing it through the fingers from root to point1 the difference can more readily be detected in consequence of its smoothness4 ,the knowledge of this structural arrangement is important as it bears largely upon the 8turning0 operation4 ,the combings are to be picked out and 8carded10 being at the same time held rather loosely in the hand4 ,by so doing1 the matted hair becomes disentangled1 and is deposited in or upon the 8card40 ,it is then to be drawn out1 piece by piece1 and laid aside4 ,when the whole has been 8carded0 in this way1 it can be loosely tied in the middle1 washed1 and dried4 ,i will now assume that the cleaned hair is before you1 and that it is to be 8turned40 ,place it in the brushes2 draw off a convenient portion1 taking care that the part held in the hand is clubbed1 and proceed in either of the following ways3--,hold the piece of hair in the left hand1 have a cup of warm water near1 into which the fingers of the right hand are to be dipped as occasion requires4 ,the hair is to be worked between the thumb and finger1 and the peculiar formation of the hair gradually forces the roots upwards4 ,these roots may be seen plainly with an ordinary magnifying glass2 they can be easily discerned by those whose eyesight is good1 and are to be discovered by the touch4 ,they generally present a whitish appearance1 and are bulbous in form4 ,it should be borne in mind that ,i am speaking here of the roots in a business sense only1 without any regard to the more minute scientific considerations4 ,as the roots present themselves1 the hairs to which they are attached are to be pulled out and 8turned10 i4e41 they are to be put at the bottom of the piece of hair in hand4 ,as each portion is done1 it is to be laid aside1 until the whole is completed1 the roots being at one end1 the points at the other4 ,to finish the turning process1 the hair should then be drawn off and tied as previously described4 ,several other ways of turning hair are adopted1 but the principle is the same4 ,some use the 8card0 with the 8nitting machine0 attached4 ,the teeth of the machine are allowed to be open or close1 depending upon the coarse or fine quality of the hair1 proceeding upon the principle that these 8knobs10 or roots1 will offer a slight resistance and be intercepted in their course4 ,others1 again1 employ a row of needles1 closely set together1 with the same object in view1 and producing a like result4 ,i observe that in a recent ,american work on the ,hair1 by ,c4 ,henri ,leonard1 ,m4,d41 the subject of hair 8turning0 has not escaped his notice4 ,he says1 speaking of the epidermal coat or cellular layer1 that 8the flat1 quadrilateraloid cells forming it overlap each other1 just as the tiles or shingles do each other on our houses10 and that 8this peculiarity of arrangement of the scales can be detected by the touch2 thus1 drawing the hair briskly through the fingers1 from the tip to the root1 it will then seem to be rough and uneven4 ,often1 when quite firm pressure is used1 a humming sound may be produced by this manuvre4 ,you can by this means always tell which is the root-end and which the tip end of the hair1 as the overlapping layers lie from the roots4 ,now if you turn the hair1 end for end1 and draw it from the root to the tip1 it will be felt to be smooth and even4 ,advantage has been taken of this fact by hair dealers and dressers1 in arranging their stock4 ,where the hair has become disarranged1 that is1 a part with the roots one way and the remainder with the tips in the same direction1 the whole is thrown upon a smooth1 hard surface1 and rolled briskly back and forth with the palm of the hand1 or pulp of the fingers1 when those with the roots in the same direction will begin to #8back out' from the mass1 and then can be easily sorted out and arranged in a proper manner4 ,were this precaution not taken 7to have the points all one way7 the hair would never lie evenly and smoothly upon the head4 ,this same #8rolling' process1 in a minor degree1 takes place at each twist of the head on the pillow1 and hence explains why our ladies' hairs are less snarled and tangled than they would otherwise be after a night's repose40 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,dyeing the ,hair--,of ,hair-dyes generally--,powder ,dyes--,liquid ,dyes--,iron ,dyes--,lead ,dyes--,various opinions concerning the use of ,lead ,dyes--,silver ,dyes--,dyeing ,false and ,faded ,hair--,bleaching and ,blanching ,hair4 ,dyeing the hair upon1 as well as off1 the head1 is a very important subject1 and should be dealt with in as complete a manner as possible4 ,a selected number of recipes will prove1 doubtless1 interesting as well as useful4 ,in the days of my apprenticeship--7it is not necessary to say how many years ago7--there were packets of 8,pompeian ,hair ,dye0 in the shop window of my master1 which bore the name of the famous chemist ,,orfila1 and the recipe for making this dye was found1 at least so the label stated1 8among the ruins of ,herculaneum40 8,what a wonderful discovery10 ,i used to think2 and 8how ,i should like to know the secret of its manufacture40 ,it was a powder dye1 and had to be mixed with water1 to the consistency of paste1 before application1 the hair being thoroughly washed and dried first4 ,it was generally applied at night time1 and the head had to be well covered with oiled-silk1 a bladder1 or some other non-porous substance1 for hours1 to confine the 8mixture0 to the hair4 ,when the 8bandages0 were removed in the morning the head appeared as though it had been dipped in a flour-barrel2 and1 oh6 what a task it was to get it clean4 ,these powder-dyes are seldom used now2 but1 nevertheless1 it is as well to give two or three recipes for making them4 7#a7 ,orfila's hair dye3 ,take three parts of litharge 7oxide of lead7 and two of quicklime1 both in an impalpable powder1 and mix them carefully4 ,when used1 a portion of the powder is mixed with hot water or milk1 and applied to the hair1 the part being afterwards enveloped in oil-skin or a cabbage-leaf for four or five hours4 7#b7 ,litharge two parts1 slaked lime one part1 chalk two parts1 all finely powdered and accurately mixed4 ,when required for use mix the powder with warm water1 dip a brush into the mixture1 and rub the hair well with it4 ,after two hours let the hair be washed4 7#c7 ,litharge #d ozs41 quicklime oz42 reduce to an impalpable powder1 and pass it through a sieve4 ,keep it in a dry1 close bottle4 ,wash the hair first with soap and water1 then with tepid water2 wipe it dry1 and comb with a clean comb4 ,mix the dye in a saucer with hot water to the consistence of cream1 and apply to the hair1 beginning at the roots4 ,place over it four folds of brown paper1 saturated with hot water1 and drained till cool1 and over this an oil-skin cap and a nightcap4 ,let it remain from four to eight hours1 according to the shade required4 ,when removed1 oil the hair1 but do not wet it for three or four days4 ,there always was an objection to these powder-dyes through the time consumed in the operation1 but the following act more quickly4 7#d7 ,take of lime 7slaked by exposure to damp air7 two parts2 carbonate of lead 7pure white lead7 one part4 ,mix thoroughly1 pass the mixture through a gauze sieve1 and at once bottle it and keep the air from getting to it4 ,used as the preceding1 but acts in one-third or one-fourth the time4 ,the shade depends chiefly on the length of its application4 7#e7 ,chevallier3 ,take of fresh slaked lime #e drachms2 water1 #a oz4 ,mix1 strain through gauze1 and pour the milky solution into a #d-oz4 bottle4 ,next take of sugar of lead #e drachms1 water #c ozs42 dissolve4 ,add to this solution dry slaked lime #a drachm1 and agitate them well together for a few minutes4 ,wash the resulting precipitate with a little distilled or soft water1 drain1 and add it to the 8milk of lime0 in the #d-oz4 bottle4 ,lastly1 shake the whole well together1 and again before use1 if it be not at once applied4 ,it must be kept well corked1 as the last1 but acts more quickly4 ,i can imagine the reader expressing surprise after reading the foregoing2 and to young men in the trade it would appear marvellous that people should submit to such an ordeal4 ,that writers should condemn the use of 8lead dyes0 7if the last recipe given be the kind alluded to71 ,i can very well understand2 but liquid 7lead7 preparations ,i do not consider open to such disapprobation4 ,one reason can be given why lead solutions are preferable1 that is1 they do not darken the skin2 and1 indeed1 with liquid dyes in the hands of a careful manipulator1 there is little occasion to touch the skin2 but when such an accident occurs1 it ought to be wiped off directly4 ,liquid dyes are easily applied1 more certain in their effect1 and1 undoubtedly1 less unpleasant to those who have occasion to use them4 ,liquid dyes may be divided into two classes1 namely1 those which gradually darken the hair1 and those which produce an instantaneous change4 ,before proceeding farther1 it is advisable to note the chemical constituents of hair1 because a successful result depends1 to a certain extent1 at least1 upon this being taken into consideration and acted upon accordingly4 ,it is known to scientific men that the chemical constituents of hair1 according to the analysis of ,vauquelin1 are--animal matter in considerable proportion2 a greenish black oil2 a white concrete oil1 in small quantity2 phosphate of lime2 carbonate of lime1 a trace2 oxide of manganese2 iron1 sulphur1 and silex4 ,red hair contains a reddish oil1 a large proportion of sulphur1 and a small quantity of iron4 ,white hair exhibits a white oil1 with phosphate of magnesia4 ,the white hair of old persons contains a maximum proportion of phosphate of lime4 ,in preparing a dye for the hair1 where the required element is absent it has to be supplied by art4 ,for illustration1 in red hair sulphur largely predominates1 and as a consequence the hair readily darkens2 in white hair--the white hair of aged persons--it is not to be found2 hence the necessity of supplying a mordant to produce the desired effect4 ,to gradually darken the hair1 then 7assuming that sulphur is still developed in the course of its formation71 a wash composed of a weak solution of the salts of iron1 such as the sulphate1 acetate1 lactate1 or protoiodide will be sufficient4 ,a very small quantity of glycerine can be added at pleasure1 but to the latter it is necessary4 ,here are two or three recipes3--7#f7 ,sulphate of iron 7green2 crushed71 #a drachm2 rectified spirit1 #a fluid oz42 oil of rosemary1 #aj or #ab drops2 pure soft water1 pint2 agitate them together until solution and mixture are complete4 ,many persons substitute the strongest old ale for the 8water0 in the above4 ,another formula is1 7#g7 take of rust of iron1 #a drachm2 old ale 7strongest71 #a pint2 oil of rosemary1 #ab or fifteen drops2 put them into a bottle1 very loosely corked1 agitate daily for ten or twelve days1 and then1 after repose1 decant the clear portion for use4 ,the following is said to be a favourite among fashionable ,parisians4 7#h7 8,parisian40 ,take of sulphate of iron 7green71 #ae to #bj grains2 distilled verdigris1 #e or #f grains2 white wine 7good71 pint2 eau de ,cologne 7to scent71 q4s42 mix4 ,it should be mentioned that all these washes will 8iron-mould0 linen if they are brought in contact4 ,should the foregoing not answer satisfactorily1 the cause will probably arise through the absence of the normal sulphur of the hair1 and in that case1 water containing a little sulphuret of potassium1 or hydrosulphuret of ammonia should be used once or twice a week4 ,much has been said concerning lead dyes1 and the injurious effects produced upon individuals who have used them for any length of time4 ,dr4 ,benjamin ,godfrey1 a gentleman with whom ,i had the honour of being acquainted1 devoted considerable attention to this question1 and in his treatise on 8,diseases of ,hair10 published in #ahgb1 says3 8,the common hair cosmetics of the present day contain lead4 ,the following is a rough analysis of the more noted3-- 8,mrs4 ,s4 ,a4 ,allen's ,world's ,hair ,restorer1 acetate of lead1 sulphur and glycerine4 8,rossetter's ,hair ,restorer1 ditto4 8,simeon's ,american ,hair ,restorer1 ditto4 8,hall's ,vegetable ,sicilian ,hair ,renewer1 ditto4 8,aqua ,amarella1 ditto4 8,helmsley's ,celebrated ,hair ,restorer1 ditto4 8,melmoth's ,oxford ,hair ,restorer1 ditto4 8,alex4 ,ross's ,great ,hair ,restorer1 oxide of lead1 carbonate of lead1 and potash4 8,the quantity of lead in any of these could not possibly do harm4 ,the strongest contained but ninety grains to the half-pint of water1 the weakest but three grains to a like bulk4 ,water was the chief ingredient of them all4 ,sulphur1 sometimes in the form of milk of sulphur1 was used2 in another1 the common flower of sulphur2 sometimes acetate of lead1 at other times oxide of that metal4 ,in all the chemical change is the same1 namely1 the solution of the metal entering into the filament by absorption1 there unites with sulphur1 forming a sulphuret of the material used4 ,hair is porous2 sulphur exists in hair of all colours1 but is in excess in red and blonde hair4 ,this is why these hues become blackened by the chemicals used more perfectly than any other shades4 8,now1 the question has been asked oftentimes1 whether the use of lead solutions as hair-dyes be prejudicial to health or no8 8,as this is a question of much importance1 we will look carefully into the matter4 8,the absorbent power of the skin is not great without we remove its outer covering4 ,if we desire to get remedies absorbed into the system1 we first blister the surface1 remove the outer covering1 then sprinkle our drugs upon the derma1 and the material then goes into the body4 ,in the endermic method of giving medicines1 we must perforate the skin to produce any effect4 ,the cuticle is the protecting agent--one of ,dame ,nature's waterproof coverings to keep out external poisons40 ,and again--8,now1 the skin of the head is additionally protected by an oily solution--the sebaceous secretion--which forbids entirely the absorption of any watery hair-dye4 ,so1 protected with nature's waterproof cape and oiled epidermis1 it is impossible for an aqueous solution to enter the body and destroy life4 ,i have carefully analysed the cases recorded in which lead cosmetics are said to have caused death4 ,almost all the cases occurred in ,france1 and lead1 in an ointment1 had been used4 ,now1 an unguent could easily be absorbed by an oily skin2 therefore these accidents are at least probable4 ,the watery solutions of lead for the last ten years have been used largely by thousands and tens of thousands of beings in our land1 yet not one single case has been recorded of poisoning from their use4444 ,i have seen patients who have used lead dyes for twenty years1 but not a single sign of lead poisoning has been revealed4444 ,in the strongest hair-dye that ,i have examined there has been but one quarter of an ounce in a half-pint bottle of water1 which would last the patient at least a month4 ,putting all these things together1 one can state that the hair-dyes1 as used in ,england at the present day1 cannot prove injurious to the users40 ,another writer1 ,dr4 ,southwood ,smith1 in his 8,philosophy of ,health10 stated that1 8,over the external surface of the body1 or the skin1 there is spread a thin layer of solid1 inorganic1 insensible matter1 like a varnish of india-rubber4 ,the obvious effect of such a barrier placed between the external surface of the body and external objects is to moderate the entrance of substances from without4 ,hence the impunity with which the most deadly poisons may remain in contact with the skin1 with which prussic acid1 arsenic1 corrosive sublimate1 may be touched and handled40 ,and ,sir ,erasmus ,wilson1 ,f4,r4,s41 writes3 8,the epidermis acts as an impediment to absorption1 and as such is an important safeguard against the admission of injurious and poisonous substances into the blood4 ,thus we find that it is only after long soaking1 or by continued friction1 that we are enabled to overcome this natural defence1 and then only to a very partial extent40 ,of lead dyes the following recipes may be found acceptable--7#i7 ,brown hair dye3 ,acetate of lead1 #b drachms2 hyposulphite of soda1 #a drachm2 rose-water1 #ad ozs42 glycerine1 #b ozs42 dissolve the acetate of lead and hyposulphite in separate portions of the rose-water2 filter separately1 mix the solutions1 and add the glycerine4 ,the two following are from ,dr4 ,c4 ,h4 ,leonard's work on 8,the ,hair03 7#aj7 ,sugar of lead1 #dj grains2 distilled water1 #b ozs42 apply this to the hair thoroughly1 and when about dry apply a solution of the sulphide of ammonium1 about one-fourth the strength of the ,british ,pharmacopia solution4 ,the objection to this is its unpleasant odour4 ,it gives1 though1 an excellent brown or black colour to the hair1 according to the strength of the solutions employed1 and does not stain the scalp4 7#aa7 ,brown hair-dye3 ,acetate of lead1 drachm2 flowers of sulphur1 #a drachm2 water1 #d ozs42 shake well and apply night and morning for a week or so1 then decrease the frequency of the application1 gradually1 to once a week1 or once in two weeks4 ,this is a slow dye1 yet one that answers fairly when there is not much greyness in the hair4 ,it also is a very mild preparation4 ,the deposit left upon the skin can be easily brushed off when it becomes dry4 ,like all of the lead dyes1 it acts best upon hair of a reddish tinge1 though grey hair is turned to a brownish colour by it4 ,its effect upon light hair is to give more of a dark brown tint to it4 ,i now offer some remarks on silver dyes1 for probably they are more in use than any of the other kinds4 ,one reason is1 they are quicker in their action1 and1 with careful manipulation1 more decided in effect4 ,before application1 however 7indeed1 before any dye can be effective71 it is important to thoroughly wash the hair with soda or soap and water1 which must be well rinsed out with plenty of tepid or cold water1 and the hair dried4 ,it is then ready for the dye4 ,it should be borne in mind that silver dyes will stain linen1 the skin1 and finger nails1 and almost any thing the dye is brought in contact with4 ,under these circumstances1 then1 carefulness must be observed4 ,sunlight1 and the open air will produce a permanent change in a few minutes2 with diffused daylight it takes much longer1 perhaps two or three hours4 ,but science has stepped in1 and1 with the employment of a good mordant1 the desired alteration of colour is effected almost instantaneously4 ,should the skin1 however1 be wetted with any of the dye1 wipe it off directly1 for if left untouched1 a dark mark will be the result4 ,a cloth damped with a solution of hydrosulphuret of ammonia1 or sulphuret of potassium1 and rubbed on the spots1 will remove recent marks4 ,so will a solution of iodide or cyanide of potassium1 but these1 on account of their poisonous qualities1 are best avoided4 ,proper caution in using the dye1 a pair of old gloves to cover the hands1 and some little practical experience will prevent any unpleasant results4 7#ab7 ,one solution1 crystallised nitrate of silver1 #a drachm2 gum arabic1 #a drachm2 distilled water1 #b ozs42 mix4 7#ac7 ,another3 one solution1 nitrate of silver1 #aib grains2 distilled water1 #h ozs4 ,dissolve and add gradually sufficient of the strongest solution of ammonia to precipitate the silver4 ,then1 afterwards1 just as much as is necessary to redissolve the precipitate4 ,the following dyes require two solutions1 and produce a rapid change3 7#ad7 ,no4 #a4 ,hydrosulphate of ammonia1 #a oz42 solution of potash1 #c drachms2 distilled water1 #a oz42 mix4 ,apply this with a tooth-brush1 and in about a quarter of an hour use4--,no4 #b4 ,nitrate of silver1 #a drachm2 distilled water1 #b ozs4 ,in all cases when two liquids are employed1 the vessels into which they are poured1 the brushes used for applying them1 combs1 etc41 must be kept separate1 otherwise the action of the dye upon the hair will be destroyed4 ,generally1 the mordant is used first and the dye afterwards1 but this order is reversed in the following 8,instantaneous ,hair ,dye10 the recipe for making which is taken from the work by ,mr4 ,a4 ,j4 ,cooley4 7#ae7 ,the white liquid1 or 8dye10 is a solution of nitrate of silver 7#a to #h1 #ab to #af74 ,this is applied first4 ,it is followed by the 8mordant0 7diluted74 ,the latter is usually a mixture of hydrosulphuret of ammonia and distilled water1 in nearly equal proportions4 ,the colour of the hair1 unaltered by the silver solution1 instantly turns 8brown0 or 8black10 according to the strength of the dye1 when moistened with the hydrosulphuret4 ,then there are 8vegetable dyes10 8vegeto-mineral dyes10 8animal dyes10 8pommade dyes10 and washes for producing red1 auburn1 golden1 golden brown1 and other shades of colour in the hair1 but to go fully into this subject at the present moment1 would be a little beside the object ,i have in view4 ,i might dismiss the subject of dyeing 8false hair10 as it is called1 with a few brief remarks1 seeing that hairdressers rarely think it worth their while to perform the experiment2 but1 as it sometimes happens1 new hair has to be added to that which is old and faded1 to meet the requirements of economical customers1 then 8how to restore it0 becomes a question4 ,of course1 if the hair be impoverished1 and assumes a 8foxy0 hue1 it cannot be restored2 but--what answers the purpose just as well--it can be dyed4 ,there is only one other reason to be adduced1 so far as ,i can tell1 for dyeing 8false hair10 and that is1 when a tradesman has a quantity of red hair by him which is unsaleable1 and1 consequently1 thinks proper to make it a more common colour4 ,whether red-haired people have generally 8good crops10 or whether they darken their hair by the use of suitable preparations1 ,i will not pretend to say2 but certainly red hair is not very often in request4 ,white1 grey1 auburn1 flaxen1 and several choice pale colours are too valuable to be interfered with1 and ordinary colours are sufficiently plentiful without resorting to the use of dye4 ,to dye 8false hair10 then1 one of the lead and sulphur dyes mentioned in the preceding pages will answer every purpose1 and its action may1 in some instances1 be promoted by boiling4 ,or any of the methods used in dyeing wool may be employed with good effect1 for1 in this connection1 there is not much dissimilarity in hair and wool1 and what will dye one will dye the other4 ,in dyeing blacks1 and dark colours1 logwood forms one of the principal ingredients1 and in conjunction with gallnuts it imparts a lustrous appearance4 ,it should be used either hot or boiling1 according to the depth of colour required4 ,the accompanying formula is very effective4 7#af7 ,logwood1 lb42 copperas 7sulphate of iron71 #a oz42 nut galls1 #a oz42 and about #b quarts of water4 ,boil for an hour1 or longer according to the shade required4 ,it is necessary to observe that the hair should be taken out of the dye-bath several times1 and freely exposed to the air4 ,this is called 8airing10 and is done to allow the oxygen of the atmosphere to act upon the ingredients of the dye1 and especially on the iron2 as without this action of the air a good colour cannot be produced4 ,to possess a head of hair of the 8golden0 blonde1 flaxen1 or auburn hue1 has been the desire of many ladies from time immemorial1 and various expedients have been resorted to to produce the desired effect4 ,at the present moment ,i do not intend to dilate upon this subject1 but of all substances used for the purpose of bleaching or blanching hair1 whether it be upon or off the head1 nothing surpasses peroxide of hydrogen1 respecting which ,mr4 ,alfred ,h4 ,mason says3--8,the best known application for peroxide of hydrogen is probably in its employment as an auricome for bleaching dark coloured hair1 producing the yellow tint3 for this purpose a #aj-volume solution is used1 the hair is saturated with it1 and then exposed for two or three days1 when the oxygen is liberated and the hair partly decolourised2 if wanted in a shorter time1 after immersion the hair is dried in a water-bath for a few hours1 but the ultimate result is not so satisfactory4 ,a ,london hairdresser produces white hair1 and it is conjectured that he employs a #bj-volume solution1 with the addition of strong solution of ammonia1 and so completely decolourises and bleaches the hair1 at the same time rendering it practically destroyed excepting so long as it holds together40 ,i think enough has been said upon dyeing1 to enable the intelligent reader to overcome many of the difficulties that are sure to arise in the course of his business pursuits4 ,the operation1 whether it be performed upon the growing hair1 or upon that which is faded and dead1 must be carried out with carefulness and patience to ensure a satisfactory result4 ,men in all branches of science1 have to perform one experiment after another before they can achieve success1 and hairdressers1 if they wish to be clever in their profession1 must be content to do the same4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,the ,first ,lesson in ,wig-making1 ,weaving the ,hair--8,once ,in10 ,close or ,ringlet ,weft--8,twice ,in10 or ,front ,weft--8,thrice ,in10 ,crop1 or ,wig ,weft--8,fly0 ,weft1 for ,top rows--,making ,ringlet ,bunches--,tufts--,curls on ,combs--,alexandra ,curls4 ,i now approach the second and1 perhaps1 most important part of my work1 viz41 the art of ,wig-making1 and under that heading ,i intend dealing with the manufacture of ,ringlets2 8,tails10 ,twists1 or ,switches2 ,plaits2 ,bandeaux2 ,fronts2 ,chignons2 ,scalpettes2 ,fillets2 ,scalps2 ,wigs2 and1 in short1 everything which appertains to this branch of the business4 ,weaving is one of the first lessons which a boy has to learn in a hairdresser's shop where 8a knowledge of board-work is required40 ,no matter whether he is employed in a first-class establishment where superior work has to be done1 or in a shop of less pretension1 good weaving should be aimed at1 and demands primary consideration4 ,in some of the principal houses1 professional weavers are engaged1 who take the hair home with them1 and bring it back when completed1 receiving so much per yard for their labour1 the price being regulated by the kind of weft made4 ,this practice is generally pursued1 for assistants have not much time or inclination to weave1 their services being more valuable1 so this operation is confided to other and less skilful hands2 but whoever does it1 or wherever it is done1 excellence should always be aimed at4 ,every hairdresser is more or less acquainted with the weaving-frame1 therefore ,i need not give particular instructions in reference thereto4 ,besides1 the accompanying illustration indicates nearly all that ,i would say about it4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,from the above it will be seen that the hair to be woven is placed in the brushes which lie upon the table2 the roots allowed to project a little1 and convenient to the workman's hand4 ,the three 8strings0 as they are sometimes called1 are in reality silk1 one skein of weaving-silk being wound round each groove of the weaving-peg4 ,the silk can be had either fine1 medium1 or coarse1 according to the taste or requirement of the user4 ,a tack is generally driven into the other peg 7to which the 8silks10 by means of a loop1 are attached7 and around it the weft is wound as it increases in quantity1 or occasion may demand4 ,when the 8frame0 is in position1 all the silks ought to be of an equal degree of tension--neither too tight nor yet too slack2 and a 8jockey0 should be provided in the event of its being wanted4 ,do not bear heavily upon the silks in a clumsy manner2 avoid weaving too much in one place1 and as the weft lengthens1 work higher up1 towards the weaving peg4 ,by observing these rules you may escape the annoyance of the silks breaking--a vexatious mishap1 which sometimes necessitates undoing that which is done1 and re-weaving it4 ,should a silk break1 however1 you must tie it close to the last weft1 but there is a particular way of fastening which can easily be shown but is awkward to describe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 8,once ,in0 weft1 which has several designations1 and is also indicated by the letter ,n1 is chiefly used when a moderate quantity of hair is required to be put together in a small compass4 ,it is employed for 8top-rows10 8bunches0 or 8tufts10 8twists0 or 8tails10 plaits1 chignons1 etc4 ,to enable the reader more easily to comprehend the modus operandi1 ,i will for the sake of convenience number the silks #a1 #b1 #c1 beginning at the bottom4 ,on the next page an illustration of the weft is given1 to do which proceed as follows4 ,draw out a weft and hold it firmly between the thumb and finger of the left hand4 ,also1 gather the silks together as indicated in ,fig4 #a1 and with the index finger of the right hand push the roots between #a and #b1 and draw them towards you between #b and #c4 ,turn the root over the top silk2 draw it between #c and #b2 pass it under #a and #b1 drawing it through #c and #b again4 ,finally1 turn the roots over the top and draw them between the two lower silks4 ,then hold the longest portion of the hair with the thumb and finger of the left hand1 firmly hold the roots in a similar manner with the right1 and draw them up as close1 i4e41 as short as possible to the silks1 at the same time sliding the weft down to its destination1 as shown in the first engraving4 ,push up close with the thumb and finger of the right hand1 and1 should the hair be stubborn1 it will be necessary to use the 8jockey10 of which ,i spoke before4 ,this procedure appears somewhat difficult to the uninitiated1 no doubt2 but ,i think that persons in the trade will find it tolerably easy4 ,if properly executed1 the work will be regular and smooth--not 8gouty10 as it sometimes appears when done by a careless person1 but firm and compact4 ,this kind of weft1 or1 indeed1 any kind of weft1 can be made coarse or fine1 according to the purpose for which it is intended2 but however thick or thin it may be1 the work must be uniform and evenly set4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 8,twice ,in10 or ,front ,weft 7,fig4 #c71 somewhat resembles1 when the silks are open1 the letter ,m1 and to do this properly the weaving has to be increased so as to keep the wefts farther apart1 and withal1 firm4 ,should the weft be loosely done1 it will be unpleasant to sew up1 and the job when completed is not likely to be durable or satisfactory4 ,follow the directions previously given1 until you come to 8drawing it through #c and #b again40 ,having done this1 continue as follows3--,pass it under #a and #b1 draw it through #c and #b1 turn it over the top1 and end as before by bringing the roots through 7or between7 the lower silks4 ,this kind of weft can be executed by an expert both rapidly and well1 but perhaps a yard an hour would be considered satisfactory1 especially if it were found perfect when completed4 8,thrice ,in10 ,crop1 or ,wig ,weft1 should be very finely made1 taking about six or eight hairs at a time to make a weft1 depending of course on the quality of the hair used4 ,each weft should be tolerably wide apart1 and firmly woven1 if durability in a wig be required4 ,when it is remembered that twenty or thirty yards are wanted in the manufacture of a gentleman's wig1 my reason for saying that the wefts should be fine and well-set must be apparent1 for were it otherwise1 the article would be heavy and uncomfortable to the wearer4 ,lightness ought never to be lost sight of in matters of this description1 neither should strength and durability be forgotten4 ,bearing these instructions in mind then1 proceed as though you were going to make 8,front weft0 but giving the hair a turn or two more1 and end by drawing the roots through between the lower silks4 ,nimble fingers can do this kind of weft in a very expeditious manner1 and ,i have heard of regular weavers making about three yards of wig weft in an hour--so much for constant practice4 8,fly0 weft1 for top rows1 lies very close and compact2 the roots fly apart or separate from the other portion of the hair1 and they are either to be removed by the scissors1 or else pressed downwards with hot pinching-irons previous to cutting down the weft4 ,indeed1 it would be advantageous to 8pinch0 all pieces of close weft1 where flatness and neatness are desired4 8,fly0 weft covers work very nicely2 it should always be finely done and pushed up close4 ,it is made the same way as 8once in10 but with this exception1 namely1--instead of drawing the roots 8between the two lower silks0 at the last movement1 draw them again through the top ones4 ,the roots will stand out or 8fly0 in an upward direction1 and it may be necessary to use a 8jockey40 ,by preference1 press the roots with hot irons instead of cutting them off1 for a weft or two might come out in wear1 and then1 to say the least1 it would look unsightly1 and jeopardise the rest4 ,i shall have occasion to refer again to weaving1 but enough has been said for the present4 8,ringlet bunches0 applies chiefly to side curls made of ringlet hair1 irrespective of the length of hair1 or quantity4 ,they can be sewn up close1 showing a back as well as front2 with all the weft concealed except that upon the top1 or in diamond shaped-openings1 as shown in ,fig4 #d4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,the illustration represents one of a pair of 8bunches0 made with three-quarters of an ounce of fourteen-inch ringlet hair4 ,to begin then3 separate the hair1 putting the curls which turn one way together1 and do the same with the others4 ,all curls which come from the hair-merchant turn both right and left--two ringlets to one lock of hair4 ,in making up either1 always remember that the curls should be so arranged as to 8turn to the face10 for if you do not attend to this at the beginning1 the curl is not likely to form or droop properly1 and there will most likely be a 8cramp0 necessitating its being rolled up again and heat applied4 ,with new work this is best avoided1 and by attention to the instructions the curls will be made 8right and left0 as they always ought to be4 ,next weigh the hair1 putting an equal quantity into each scale4 ,tie up each lot2 card it properly1 and it will assume almost of itself1 or with a very little help1 a curl4 ,now you have two curls1 tied at the roots1 and inclining one to the right and the other to the left4 ,take one of them1 place it in the brushes1 and weave 7see ,fig4 #b72 when woven1 comb it out carefully while on the frame1 and form several ringlets all turning the same way4 ,cut the middle silk six or eight inches from the weft1 tie it to the others1 and fasten off securely4 ,now weave the other tress1 making the weft to correspond1 so as to resemble the first piece as much as possible1 in every respect2 the curls of course being all turned in a reverse direction4 ,fasten off and cut down as before4 ,you have now the weft for a pair of curls1 and it has to be sewn up4 ,take one of the pieces1 and double it1 pressing the fold with your thumb and finger so as to temporarily mark it4 ,this will give the centre of the piece4 ,fold one of these halves into three 7so as to get at the width to make them7 and then let the top one go loose4 ,you are now holding between the thumb and finger of the left hand two rows of weft4 ,sew the end to the adjoining row with silk specially made for trade use1 and the stitches are all to be in one spot4 ,then sew at a proper distance again and again in the same manner1 and this will complete the two lower rows of weft4 ,take up another row1 so arranging as to bring the stitches exactly in the centre of the 8diamond0 until you get to the end of that row4 ,do the same with any other rows until completed4 ,pull into form with the thumb and finger2 slightly damp the weft1 and press into shape with warm pinching-irons4 ,the other bunch1 of course1 is to be made to match4 ,if intended for stock they had better be attached with the needle and silk1 so as to keep the 8bunches0 together1 otherwise they will get mixed and cause confusion4 ,i must here observe that the experienced eye will notice a slight difference between the letterpress description and the illustration4 ,i did not perceive the error until too late1 but for the sake of accuracy ,i think it necessary to draw attention to it4 ,the weft as shown in the engraving passes from bottom to top and vice vers1 whereas in the description it is in rows--one above the other4 ,the artist has in the main given the design correctly enough1 but the modus operandi by which it is produced is not so clearly indicated as ,i would desire4 ,sometimes the weft is sewn up close1 and that is more particularly the case when space is taken into consideration4 ,if the work has to cover a rather large surface1 it is best to sew it up in diamond shapes1 but if it is to be condensed1 then the wefts should be fine1 close1 and made up in as compact a manner as possible4 ,take1 for instance1 another lot of hair1 the same in weight and length as the preceding4 ,observe the instructions given concerning its division1 and weave as before4 ,measure off as previously described1 and supposing that you allow for six rows of weft1 proceed as follows3--,fold back one over and above the other1 and securely stitch the end by way of a commencement4 ,push the needle towards you through the centre of the lower row of weft1 and from you through the upper row of weft4 ,avoid sewing 8over and over40 ,keep all the stitches small1 and the sewing-silk is not to be doubled4 ,having worked in this way from end to end1 take another row of weft1 and put in position over the lower row4 ,sew it as before described1 and so on until the whole is completed4 ,the weft will be seen at the back1 occupying1 when made up1 about half the depth required in ,fig4 #d4 ,the worker must be particular in keeping the rows of weft straight and flat1 which he can easily do with attention and the proper use of his thumb and finger4 ,i say 8finger10 because curled hair should never be held in the hand1 for the warmth of the hand is likely to cramp or weaken the curl4 ,comb out1 press1 and dress as before described4 ,another way1 so as to hide the weft altogether1 excepting the top row1 can be done when required4 ,take a similar lot of hair1 and weave it4 ,commence sewing up as before1 and when the two rows are done1 instead of turning the weft backwards and forwards so as to show the work1 turn it round and round in order to conceal it1 still sewing-up flat as previously described4 ,tufts of hair are side pieces or curls1 and the weft is wound round a side comb instead of being sewn upon it1 as will presently be mentioned4 ,the word 8tuft0 may be applied to almost any small piece of postiche hair1 whether it be upon a comb or a hair-pin1 as 8pin-curls0 are made4 ,i have seldom heard the designation of 8tuft0 applied to any piece of hair in a ,london shop1 though ,i have known it to be common in some parts of the country1 therefore it may be taken to be a provincial more than a common term used in the trade4 ,tufts1 then1 can be made of any length and thickness1 depending entirely upon the use for which they are intended4 ,two tufts1 i4e41 two bunches of lightly-formed ringlet curls1 might be employed in a lady's coiffure with considerable advantage4 ,they could be placed behind the ears1 or so arranged near the tie 7or knot7 as to form a pretty cache-peigne1 while 8pin-curls0 could be put wherever fancy might direct4 ,to make the tufts1 take fine weft1 and side combs with rather open teeth4 ,arrange both hair and combs for the right and left sides4 ,fasten the weft to that part of the comb which is intended to go nearest the forehead1 and let the hair hang towards the face4 ,having secured the weft with needle and silk1 cut the silk off1 leaving only the weft upon the comb4 ,then commence winding up the weft around the back of the comb1 keeping it firm1 and allowing one row of weft to go between each tooth4 ,each layer of weft conceals that which precedes it1 and the weft should all be used up before reaching the top4 ,about two-thirds of the back of the comb might be covered1 and when this is reached finish off with the needle4 ,the hair will be found in a rather rough condition1 but that does not much signify to a patient workman4 ,it will be necessary to get some one to hold it 7which must be done with both hands1 to prevent any undue strain upon the comb7 while you disentangle the hair1 turning the curl over the work on the back of the comb4 ,put it on a block1 press the work with warm irons1 and dress out in the form required4 8,pin-curls0 are simply pieces of weft of short curled hair1 and made up after the manner just described4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,curls on combs1 when nicely made1 are very effective1 being intended to wear at the sides4 ,tortoise-shell combs should be used1 rather open teeth1 and 8grailed10 of a pliable quality1 and those known in the trade as 8rights0 and 8lefts0 ,i have always found to be the best for this kind of work4 ,divide1 and prepare the hair as in the previous instances4 ,weave one row of 8fly weft0 out of each piece1 and this should be as long as the fine teeth of the comb extend4 ,begin and finish this weft in a secure manner1 and let each piece be distinct from the other4 ,pinch1 and cut down4 ,weave the other two pieces in the ordinary way1 beginning and finishing off each one separately4 ,comb out1 pinch1 and cut down4 ,you have now four distinct pieces of weft1 a long and a short1 fine piece for each comb4 ,take the longest piece of weft and fold it into two1 three1 or four lengths 7as the case may be71 each length being at least a quarter of an inch shorter than the fine-toothed part of the comb4 ,sew it up close1 because1 in this instance1 the work has to be 8condensed40 ,you cannot make the weft too flat1 and1 of course1 the weft is to lie upon the comb4 ,comb out and pinch4 ,take up the comb1 say1 for the right side1 and the 8fly0 weft for that side also4 ,hold the curls drooping in your left hand1 and the comb 7the concave part uppermost7 in your right4 ,pass the teeth of the comb through the hair nearest the weft1 and then pull it gently into its place4 ,take your needle and silk and1 as needle-women say1 8fasten on40 ,this part of the job is to be done carefully1 taking one stitch to each tooth 7the weft being down towards the points71 the reason for this is to avoid breaking the teeth4 ,bear in mind to make the stitches loose1 otherwise the weft will not fit into its right position close to the top of the comb2 but if they are too slack the work will not keep in its place at all4 ,this important point1 like many others1 can only be gained by observation and practice4 ,the 8fly0 weft1 remember1 is in the concave or hollow part of the comb1 while the 8twice in0 weft is to be on the convex1 or upper part4 ,take this part1 then and put it into its place4 ,incline it towards the points to allow the needle to pass through easily4 ,fasten on1 and make a stitch to every tooth as before4 ,push it up close to the 8top0 row1 and with two or three small stitches taken at random connect the whole together4 ,pursue the same plan with respect to the one intended for the opposite side1 when1 of course1 they will form a pair4 ,comb out1 press with curling irons1 and arrange4 ,i may say1 inter alia1 that while the hair is in a rough1 dishevelled state1 a little--only a little--of the very best olive oil1 nicely perfumed1 should be applied4 ,it facilitates the action of the comb1 renders the hair easier to dress1 and adds a gloss to it which1 if not overdone1 heightens the effect4 ,pomade of any kind should not be used to curled1 or1 indeed1 to any kind of 8false0 hair4 ,my reason for saying so is1 that it tends to 8clog0 the hair1 does not impart such a fine gloss1 and causes it sooner to become sticky4 8,alexandra curls0 form a very pretty addition to the coiffure4 ,the curl or curls are occasionally made with a portion of the back hair set apart for the purpose1 but it sometimes happens that there is not sufficient in quantity or length1 or that it will not retain the curl1 and then the necessity arises for artificial aid4 ,the long ringlet curls here represented1 were named after ,her ,royal ,highness the ,princess of ,wales1 and for a great length of time remained in fashion4 ,sometimes two or more are worn1 and in that case1 they would be so disposed as to fall in front and behind the shoulder4 ,they add a charm to the coiffure1 and impart a nice finish to the whole4 ,they are made as follows3--,take three-quarters of an ounce of eighteen-inch hair1 or an ounce of twenty-inch hair1 and so on in proportion according to the length4 ,the hair must be specially prepared for the purpose1 otherwise the curl will be too heavy1 and 8break0 towards the top4 ,to prepare the hair for ,alexandra curls take1 say1 half an ounce of twenty-inch1 and a like quantity of twelve-inch hair1 curled4 ,card and mix the two lengths together1 which1 if properly done1 will form a long curl1 and light at the bottom as it should be4 ,but ,messrs4 ,r4 ,hovenden and ,sons1 as well as other hair merchants1 keep 8taper curled hair for ,alexandra curls0 in stock1 of divers lengths and shades of colour1 and it is much better to obtain the hair already manipulated1 than to do it oneself4 ,the mode of making these curls is similar to that adopted for making hair-twists1 and fully described in the next chapter4 ,having been sewn up1 the hair must be carefully combed out1 pinched at the top where the work is1 and dressed4 ,a long stick1 termed a 8curl-stick10 is generally used for the latter purpose2 the hair being adroitly put round it 7commencing at the top1 not at the bottom7 and brushed2 the stick is then withdrawn and the curls remain as shown on the previous page4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,spanish ,coil ,chignon4 #b4 ,beatrice ,chignon4 #c4 ,straight ,hair ,bandeau4 #d4 ,cable ,twists1 for making the ,spanish ,coil ,chignon1 c4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,making ,twists1 8,tails10 or ,switches--,back and ,side ,plaits--,chignon ,universel--,the ,zephyr ,coiffure--,semi-waved ,curled ,chignon--,a ,novel ,chignon--,of ,chignons in general4 ,twists1 8,tails0 or ,switches are made first into sections or stems1 and two1 three1 four1 or five1 are required to form a complete twist1 or 8tail40 ,the word 8tail0 is used more as a trade term than anything else1 although ,i have seen it written upon tickets attached to long pieces of hair1 exposed for sale in hairdressers' shop-windows4 ,it is not by any means an elegant way to indicate the article1 and 8torsade0 or 8twist10 is1 to my thinking1 preferable4 ,the number of stems employed is1 generally1 three1 and they may be long or short1 according to the length of hair2 the purpose for which the article is designed2 and last1 but not least1 the price4 ,and here1 again1 the price1 as well as the style of manufacture1 admits of great variety4 ,a twist can be made to sell for pounds1 or shillings1 according to the colour1 length1 thickness1 quality1 and workmanship4 ,these are matters with which persons engaged in the trade are well acquainted1 and ,i need not further refer to them4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,here is the method of making a twist4 ,take two ounces of twenty-inch straight hair1 and divide into three parts1 but one part is to be thicker than either of the other two1 so as to allow for a top row1 in addition1 being made from it4 ,having done this1 tie each lot1 temporarily1 so as to keep it intact4 ,fix the weaving frame1 and three silks1 as on previous occasions4 ,put the thickest portion into the brushes1 and weave a very fine top row of 8once-in0 weft1 about three and a-half inches in length4 ,this is not to be cut down1 but go on weaving the remaining portion of the tress of hair2 the only difference being that it is to be coarser4 ,the weaving should be graduated1 as it were1 so as to avoid an abrupt thickness of the weft1 for it would1 doubtless1 spoil the appearance of the work4 ,plait up in three1 and twist the weft round the weaving peg4 ,leave a space of about four or five inches1 and then resume4 ,commence with a very fine weft1 and weave it in the usual manner1 taking care to secure it firmly to the silks by a little extra-close weaving4 ,there is a special way of doing this which an expert can easily show1 but it is difficult here to describe4 ,another way of proceeding is to press the first portion with warm irons1 cut down1 and then begin again1 of course without making another top row4 ,weave the third and remaining tress in the same way1 and the work then is ready for sewing up4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,to sew up1 take a rather short but plain weaving peg1 and bore a hole in it about five or six inches from the top4 ,through this hole pass a stout wire1 bend it down to keep it in its place1 and form a hook at the bottom2 turn the other part of the wire in a corresponding direction1 but leaving a piece standing out to form a handle4 ,if this is designed properly1 it can easily be turned round and round without becoming detached from its position4 ,take a piece of black tape1 ,russian cord1 or some other suitable material1 about the length of the weft2 tie a knot at top and fix it to the wire hook4 ,commence about an inch from the bottom1 by sewing the thick end of the weft to the lower part1 and having done so1 break off the silk4 ,begin1 then1 turning the handle of the wire above described2 this will cause the tape or cord to twist1 and when sufficiently twisted1 it will be proper to roll the weft upon it4 ,having done so for a little distance1 turn the wire again1 so as to keep it firm2 continue this till the end of the weft is reached1 and then fasten off4 7,see the accompanying illustration of one of the stems1 ,fig #f47 ,it will be necessary to observe that each row of weft should lie close to and above the preceding row1 and when there is much weft to be rolled or twisted up it ought to be stitched in several places4 ,now1 having completely made two of the stems1 make the third one1 i4e41 the one with the top row attached4 ,sew this up as before instructed until you come to the top row1 when stop4 ,take the other two stems1 and place the free ends of the tape1 cord1 or whatever may be the material used1 with that which you are now working1 and stitch them all together4 ,having done so1 begin sewing the top row1 neatly1 and well1 but having started it1 take sufficient ,russian cord to make a loop1 put it in its place1 cover all with the top row1 and finish off securely4 ,each stem is to be pinched separately1 and pinched again when completed4 7,fig4 #g47 ,these twists are exceedingly useful1 and if well-made1 with hair of good quality and length1 they can be applied to a number of purposes in connection with the coiffure4 ,they may be twisted up with the back hair1 made into a plait or plaits1 used as a solid twist or a light torsade for a coronet1 or back hair dressing4 ,speaking of a torsade1 the following instructions1 taken from 8,lessons in ,hairdressing10 will doubtless prove acceptable4 ,that which ,i am about to describe is known by the names of ,torsade ,dondel1 ,torsade ,repousse1 ,torsade ,gouffre4 ,it is made 8with a long thin strand of hair1 and is hollow when completed2 consequently1 where lightness is required1 two or three of these may be introduced with charming effect4 ,proceed to make it in the following manner3--,take a piece of hair from twenty-four to thirty inches long1 and separate a thin strand1 which afterwards serves as a #8draw4' ,this put on one side till wanted4 ,divide the hair into two equal parts1 and friz well upon the inner side1 at the same time spreading out the hair so as to make it wide and flat4 ,it may then be compared 7for further illustrating my instructions7 to a long and somewhat wide strip of cardboard4 ,hold the end in your left hand1 and turn upon the thumb of the right hand1 which1 for the purpose1 should be placed near to the top1 or roots4 ,having given it a bend1 it then forms a #8hollow1' which is to be so twisted upon itself1 and in a spiral direction to the end4 ,then either pin down temporarily or get the lady to hold it4 ,proceed in the same manner with the second portion4 ,having done so1 take one end in each hand and twist both together1 being particular to pass that held by the left hand over that held by the right4 ,take then the little strand of hair1 and pass it round the torsade in such a manner that it falls into every second space4 ,hold the end firmly1 and push up the frizzed twist2 fasten off1 and place in position40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,it will be seen that when neatly done the whole forms a hollow and 8puffed up0 twist1 light in construction1 full in appearance1 and very suitable for a coronet or as an embellishment to the chignon4 ,in the hairdressing business there are innumerable changes of fashion1 while the various requirements of different individuals continually make demands upon the practical knowledge of those who carry on the trade4 ,some articles that ,i have spoken of1 and others to which ,i shall have occasion to refer1 are 8not in fashion10 but there is an occasional demand for something or another that would puzzle many who profess to know how to make almost everything4 ,it is the duty of a hairdresser to assist nature in matters appertaining to the chevelure1 for thin locks have to be supplemented by artificial aid1 and bald heads not unfrequently require to be covered4 ,it is not at all times pride and vanity that causes people to resort to the use of 8false hair10 as it is termed1 any more than it is pride and vanity which compels some folk to use spectacles1 wear false teeth1 or have recourse to surgical mechanicians for their especial aid and comfort4 ,i could laugh at the remarks occasionally given expression to1 for 8goody-goody0 people seem inclined to condemn in others that which they can dispense with themselves4 ,to resume4 ,a back plait with a flat top can be made from any quantity or length of hair4 ,it may be wide or narrow as circumstances require1 and although the twist before described is in general requisition1 yet there are occasions when a flat top is most convenient and suitable4 ,take half-an-ounce of twenty-inch hair1 and two ounces of eighteen4 ,close1 or 8once in0 weft1 throughout4 ,weave the long hair moderately fine for the top row1 or rows1 and the eighteen-inch hair should be woven rather coarse1 but uniform from beginning to end4 ,there should not be a 8break10 for all the weft must be in one piece4 ,pinch1 temporarily plait in 8threes10 and cut down4 ,decide upon the width the plait is to be made1 and sew up firm and regular4 ,side ,plaits are made with sixteen or eighteen inch hair1 after the manner of closely-sewn ringlet bunches2 two or three loops are attached to each bunch through which a piece of wide galloon or ribbon is passed4 ,this serves to fasten them to the head1 and as they are made to slide1 the width apart can be adjusted according to the discretion of the wearer4 ,i have also made side plaits on combs1 after the method adopted for making curls on combs1 leaving the ends of the plaits to be fixed by the wearer1 or by 8tacking0 them to the combs after being plaited4 ,the ends of these side plaits should be securely fastened by means of black thread1 and the whole neatly covered with a piece of ribbon4 ,concerning the plaiting of hair1 the reader is referred to 8,lessons in ,hairdressing10 wherein copious instructions are given4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,the 8,chignon ,universel10 as it is called1 is a clever arrangement for making good a deficiency in the back hair2 it is most convenient1 and unmistakably 8defies detection40 ,to be made with smooth hair on the top1 with the underneath hair either crol1 or plain4 ,if fulness be desired the former plan is most expedient1 or else long frizzettes should be introduced4 ,but much depends upon the length and thickness of the hair and the way it is going to be arranged4 ,to manufacture the ,chignon ,universel proceed as follows3--,take half an ounce of twenty-two inch hair1 and having previously selected a comb1 weave sufficient 8fly0 weft to make a top row1 pinch1 securely fasten off1 and cut down4 ,then take two ounces of twenty-inch hair1 which is to be woven rather coarse1 and ,i need scarcely add1 close1 or 8once in0 weft2 the object being to get as much hair as possible into the smallest compass4 ,sew up as though you were going to make an ordinary back plait according to the instructions previously given4 ,pinch1 and make it as flat as you can4 ,cover the top of the comb with a piece of strong net1 such as is used in wig-making1 and do all the sewing on the front part of it1 so that when finished it shall present a neat appearance1 as shown in the illustration4#e ,securely stitch the piece made with the twenty-inch hair to the net1 at the top part of the comb1 and in such a way that it lies flat4 ,then take the piece of 8fly0 weft1 and 7putting the roots underneath7 sew it on the top1 so as to cover all4 ,press1 and comb out the hair4 ,when completed1 the work ought to look as compact and pretty as it does in the wood-cut annexed4 ,ability comes with practice1 and as ,i am writing for the benefit of those who desire to improve1 ,i would just hint that they need not be afraid of doing their work too well4 ,at the outset inferior productions might reasonably be expected1 but1 as the apprentice or improver advances1 better work should be forthcoming4 ,there is an old saying that 8practice makes perfect10 and that is exemplified in numberless instances every day4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,some few years ago several of the leading hairdressers met together1 by arrangement1 and discussed the necessity which then existed for the introduction of a new style of coiffure4 ,the once-fashionable chignon1 with its accompanying plaits and twists had disappeared1 and the coiffeur's art began to decline in consequence4 ,besides1 ladies complained of the meagre fashion which succeeded the more elaborate style of hairdressing1 and a change1 for more reasons than one1 was considered necessary4 ,i need not pause here to discuss the importance of the coiffure1 or the pleasing effect which is produced when the hair is arranged in harmony with the features4 ,all ladies' coiffeurs are well aware of it1 and at the meeting in question it was decided to introduce something new and of almost universal application in reference to ladies' hairdressing4 ,but the time was not sufficiently ripe for a change--the little knot and the fringed brow had taken too great a hold of the popular fancy4 ,however the innovation was of a tasteful and serviceable character1 and in expert hands could be made to assume a number of charming designs4 ,it was called 8,the ,zephyr ,coiffure10 and is made as follows3--,take some tapered curled hair from sixteen to twenty inches in length1 and about an ounce and a quarter in weight4 ,weaken the curl to within six inches of the points1 and sew up on three separate pieces of galloon or net1 about a quarter of an inch wide1 keeping it flat and soft4 ,the stems may be four or five inches in length1 or longer1 according to circumstances1 while another description is made of a lesser quantity of hair1 shorter in proportion1 and sewn up in the usual way of making twists or 8tails40 7,see accompanying illustrations47 ,the first pieces described can be arranged in puffs1 undulations1 rouleaux1 knots1 or twists1 but those made upon the last-named principle are more suited for plaits1 but leaving the ends curled4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,the experienced coiffeur will see at a glance what can be done when these additions are introduced4 ,with the lady's own chevelure1 and the use of two or more of these pieces of hair1 a dressing can be devised at once light and elegant1 high on the head as with a long coronet1 by inserting the stems one into the other and concealing the loops1 or low on the neck with tight or fluffy curls4 ,again1 the stems can be incorporated with the back hair1 and the curled ends arranged over and upon the forehead4 ,should the head of hair be of a poor description1 through its being short and thin1 then three1 or at most four1 of these tresses will probably be required4 ,the following headdress has been executed to give the reader some idea of the adaptability of these pretty additions to almost any style of hairdressing1 while the advantages to be derived from the curled ends may readily be discerned4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,in presenting this description of the ,zephyr ,coiffure1 ,i would remark that not one1 but at least twenty different styles can be executed with the help of these necessary adjuncts1 and1 further1 the chignon can be made large or small according to the taste or requirements of the wearer1 as can easily be imagined4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,while speaking of taper-curled hair1 ,i am reminded of a semi-waved curled chignon which is light in construction and produces a very pretty effect4 ,of course it can be made either large or small1 thick or thin1 with longer or shorter hair1 and a practised hand will see at a glance its general utility4 ,this cache-peigne can be worn with a comb1 or embellished with flowers1 and1 moreover1 it presents a most natural appearance4 7,see ,fig4 #ad47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,to make the chignon1 take about #c ozs4 of taper ringlet hair1 a part of which is to be twelve inches1 another part fourteen1 and so on up to the longest1 which should be about twenty inches4 ,instead of weaving upon three silks in the usual manner1 fine wire is to be substituted for the centre one4 ,let the weft be very good1 and sew up into a diamond-shaped foundation4 7,reference to ,chapter ,v4 will show what is meant47 ,with this quantity of hair the mount should be1 when completed1 about four inches wide and seven inches long4 ,the weft required is about three yards1 and must be so arranged that the shorter hair is kept at the top1 while the longest comes to the bottom4 ,to make the wavings1 undo the curl a little here and there and friz underneath1 or it can be weakened by means of a warm iron4 ,another cache-peigne ,i have made on a similar principle1 but very much lighter1 and1 with proper dressing1 it appears to be nearly as full4 ,take oz4 or #a oz4 of taper ringlet hair1 twelve1 sixteen and twenty inches long4 ,weave and sew up as before directed4 ,in dressing1 each curl should be very carefully frizzed in the inside1 and disposed without the aid of the curl-stick1 if possible4 ,by adopting this method1 the curls will be very thin and light1 and obtain1 through frizzing1 all the fulness required4 ,a novel chignon was designed1 some time ago1 by ,mr4 ,joseph ,kubelka 7,vienna71 which consists of the ingenious combination of two ordinary 8tails0 or 8twists10 and is worthy of reproduction here4 ,its formation will be seen at a glance1#f and the method of arrangement is first made upon the hand 7the tops being held by some person1 or else temporarily fixed to a table71 and a 8bodkin0 must be employed in working the design4 ,this bodkin can be made of tortoise-shell1 ivory1 or bone1 but it must have an opening sufficiently large to encircle the free ends of the hair4 7,the illustration given below indicates very clearly how the plait is to be made47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,by means of this contrivance the hair is drawn through spaces easily made by the fingers1 and1 as can readily be discerned1 the plaited chignon well holds itself together4 ,the final disposition of the ends must be completed upon the head1 when they 7as well as the natural hair7 should be made into rouleaux1 etc41 as may be found most convenient and tasteful4 ,where lightness has to be considered1 perhaps two well-covered inserted stems might take the place of a quantity of hair--a hint which is not likely to be overlooked by clever hairdressers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,probably1 at this juncture1 some remarks on chignons in general will not be thought out of place4 ,chignons may be considered as 8old as the hills10 for the word simply means as ,i interpret it--a back hair dressing without reference to any particular shape4 ,were ,i to designate the mere 8knot0 at the back of the head a chignon1 perhaps my meaning would not be clearly understood1 but it is in reality as much a chignon as the most elaborate one could be4 ,in the ordinary acceptation of the word1 however1 a fanciful style of dressing the back hair is meant1 and 8,board-work0 would not be complete without special allusion being made to chignons1 seeing that their manufacture a few years ago gave employment to thousands of people of both sexes4 ,m4 ,alphonse ,bouchard1 writing in ,,the ,,hairdresser',s ,,chronicle on the subject of 8,false ,hair10 says that 8the compilers of the ,general ,catalogue of the ,universal ,exhibition1 #ahfg1 have given us figures1 which it would be very difficult to check2 but they1 no doubt1 used the same sources which ,i have had recourse to1 and to prove the exactness and authority of this essay1 ,i shall quote a few data4 8,this official document reports as follows3--,the manufacture of hair is to-day of very great importance4 ,paris is the place where the hair is well prepared1 and where the headdresses arrive at the highest degree of perfection4 ,the price of raw hair1 says this catalogue1 is about #ej francs on an average per kilo4 ,it was #fe francs in #ahfe2 and it is said to have been sold even at #ajj francs4 ,the price of prepared hair is #adj francs the kilo4 ,the price of postiches is about #dj francs apiece2 the prices of the fashionable coiffures1 called chignons1 range from #ae francs to #bjj francs1 and even as far as #ejj francs apiece4 ,in ,france about #gj1jjj kilos4 of cut hair are sold4 ,of this quantity #dj1jjj kilos4 are ,french1 and #bj1jjj kilos4 are imported from ,italy1 ,belgium1 ,germany and other countries4 #h1jjj kilos4 are collected in the workshops and other places2 this is called #8waste4' ,america1 ,england and ,prussia buy #cj1jjj kilos4 of hair of us2 #be1jjj kilos4 are used in ,france in the manufacture of postiches2 and about #ac1jjj kilos4 are exported to different countries4 ,marseilles is next to ,paris in importance for the hair trade4 ,m4 ,joseph ,mathieu has given us some curious details on the hair trade in ,marseilles4 ,he tells us1 that the statutes of the wig-makers of ,marseilles date from #afif4 ,their number was for a long time limited to twenty4 ,in #agfj1 the master-wigmakers of ,marseilles1 seeing that a large number of ladies' hairdressers established themselves in that city1 commenced an action against them4 ,but a decree of the #bjth ,june1 #agfa1 rejected these pretensions1 and gave full and entire freedom to the ladies' hairdressers to exercise their calling4 8,in #aghi1 the number of hairdressers and ladies' hairdressers of ,marseilles was considerable4 ,it is well known how complicated the headdresses of that period were1 and according to the records of that time1 ,marseilles was one of the first cities in ,france for elegance and good taste4 8,after the ,revolution the number of hairdressers increased gradually1 but it is more especially during the last ten years that this increase has been mostly noticed1 and to-day we have at ,marseilles #cig coiffeurs4 8,four houses1 employing about forty workmen1 hold the monopoly of the hair trade4 ,the trade has increased fourfold during the last thirty years4 ,the houses in the trade receive together annually #f1jjj kilos4 of hair1 from the ,tyrol1 ,bohemia1 ,dalmatia and ,italy4 ,having been worked1 #c1jjj kilos4 of this quantity is sent to the provinces and to foreign countries1 and #c1jjj kilos4 remain for town consumption4 8,it is estimated that of these1 #ejj kilos4 are used for men's wigs1 and #b1ejj kilos4 for postiches for women4 ,the postiches1 chignons1 cache-folies and false plaits are employed to such an extent1 that there are at ,marseilles actually #ge1jjj women1 or the whole grown-up female population1 who wear false hair4 ,this observation applies equally to ,paris and to some large towns abroad4 ,all coiffeurs at ,marseilles trade in chignons more or less1 and their annual production of this article amounts to #ee1jjj4 ,of these1 #cj1jjj are sent to the provinces1 and #be1jjj are sold in the city and its suburbs4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,coiled ,chignon1 measuring thirty-six inches1 or more1 when undone4 #b4 ,pair of side ,frizzetts4 #c4 ,seven ,strand ,double ,plait4 #d4 ,marguerite ,plait3 ,this can be plaited in #d1 #e1 #f1 or #g strands1 as may be decided upon4 #e4 ,bertha ,frizzett 7set of three71 for ,plaited ,chignon3 ,the stems are made with straight hair inserted1 of medium thickness1 and seventeen inches in length4 8,corresponding with the advance of education in ,france1 the difficulty to find young countrywomen who are ready to part with their chevelure increases4 ,nowadays it requires a sum of money to induce a girl to undergo the ordeal of the cutter's scissors2 consequently we have been obliged to go elsewhere in search of this article1 principally to ,germany1 ,austria1 ,italy1 and more particularly to ,sicily1 the ,neapolitan provinces1 and the former ,papal states4 ,the large religious communities of women furnish also great quantities of hair4 ,in certain ,catholic countries the hair of the novice who enters a religious order is sold for the benefit of the convent where the vow is taken1 and those beautiful tresses1 sacrificed at the foot of the altar by virgins who renounce the world1 return to it again other heads to adorn4 ,the ,italian hair is imported into ,france vi ,marseilles1 and the figure of this importation reached in #ahfe #ag1cfg kilos4 99 99 99 99 99 8,in #ahcj1 the value of raw and manufactured hair exported from ,france amounted to #ajd1dhh francs2 in #ahfe it had increased to #a1bjf1fje francs4 ,numbers of people at ,paris1 at ,marseilles1 and in other large towns1 have realised fortunes in the hair trade4 ,let us mention one house in the ,palais ,royal quarter which1 in #ahfh1 did business to the amount of #a1eeb1jjj francs4 ,we may safely say that the ,french hairdressers sell annually #fh1jjj kilos4 of hair1 which1 made into plaits1 curls1 crape1 etc41 represents a sum of #hj1jjj1jjj francs4 ,let us further mention that another house sold1 within sixteen months1 in #ahga and #ahgb1 #af1jjj chignons1 at prices varying from #ab to #gj francs each1 but of course there are much more expensive ones sold1 chignons of a natural red or golden tinted hair1 which is principally imported from ,scotland1 being the most expensive40#g ,from the foregoing1 the reader can learn what the trade was a few years ago2 but what it is now1 his every-day experience can answer4 ,undoubtedly the manufacture of chignons was a thriving trade so long as it lasted1 and we have it on record that of a certain dyed material termed 8hair0 7which it greatly resembled7 8hundreds of thousands of tons0 were used in the making of frizzettes1 pads1 etc4#h ,it would be useless now to enter upon the method of constructing chignons1 for their patterns are almost endless2 but with inserted stems1 or pads1 and suitable hair1 an ingenious hairdresser ought to be able1 after what ,i have already said1 to make several of neat and pretty designs4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,scalpettes and ,fringes2 general remarks thereon--,curled and ,waved ,fringes--8,water ,waves0--,mounting and ,making ,scalpettes4 ,baldness is not by any means confined to the male sex1 for females1 through illness1 accouchements1 neuralgic pains in the head1 constitutional weakness1 frequent head-aches1 tying the hair improperly1 overmuch crimping1 and other causes--frequently experience a loss of hair4 ,true1 this can easily be concealed by means of headdresses1 bows1 ribbons1 flowers1 lace1 and so forth1 but young and middle-aged ladies do not find it convenient to have recourse to such artifices at all times4 ,formerly1 bandeaux and 8fronts0 were employed to conceal this defective condition of the hair1 and they are still in request by elderly people and those whose means are limited4 ,but now1 thanks to the ingenuity of ladies' hairdressers1 the 8scalpette0 has been invented1 and it may truly be regarded as a veritable work of art4 ,what is a scalpette8 ,as this is comparatively a new word1 it will be advisable to dwell for a moment upon its meaning4 ,i therefore consider it to signify an artificial covering for concealing a deficiency of hair1 or to cover a bald place upon the female head--but not a wig4 ,just the same as a 8scalp0 is an artificial covering for the bald head of a man--but it is not a wig4 ,assuming1 then1 that my definition is correct1 those of my readers who have much to do with board-work will readily perceive the variable nature of the invention4 ,a scalpette can be made to cover a small space1 or the entire top of the head2 it can be formed with or without a 8fringe20 with or without a parting or partings4 ,it can be manufactured with long straight hair1 or short curly hair1 or both4 ,it can be 8knotted0 upon gauze or a 8human hair foundation10 and made1 figuratively speaking1 8as light as a feather10 or it can be woven1 and mounted with net and galloon1 which is1 doubtless1 more durable and less expensive4 ,in short1 a scalpette can be adapted to any possible requirement1 and that there is a demand for such manufactures at good prices in certain localities1 both in town and country1 will not1 probably1 be contradicted4 ,speaking of sundry ingenious contrivances for concealing bald patches1 and helping thin partings to an improved appearance1 the ,queen newspaper observes that the modes of covering thin partings are various4 8,first1 if the head is very bald at the top1 a scalpette of straight hair is added2 this comes to a point in front1 so that any hairs that may remain on the forehead are seen2 the partings of this scalpette are made of hair1 and are quite invisible2 secondly a scalpette of small curls is laid over the parting2 it rests quite flat on the head1 and is dressy and becoming2 and thirdly1 a scalpette of short straight hair1 which forms a fringe in front1 and mingles with the wearer's own hair at the sides4 ,the mode of concealing a thinness of the hair at the sides is to insert a piece of long hair1 mounted on the most invisible of hair partings4 ,this thinness at the sides is generally accompanied by the same at the top of the head2 the addition is then made to conceal all together4 ,the wearer's own hair is parted at the side1 the addition added and kept in its place by a few hairs brought over1 and then the whole dressed together1 the added piece being quite imperceptible4 ,another mode is the scalpette which curls at the top1 and has straight hair coming from it on either side4 ,when an entire covering is necessary1 there is the invisible topee4 ,these cover the parting with short hair1 and are on the principle of a front without either springs or strings40 ,it will appear1 as my work advances1 how scalpettes can be manufactured1 but a knowledge of mounting and knotting must first be acquired1 and the other will follow in due course4 ,fringes are of a less difficult character1 at least the majority of them1 but some of the more elaborate ones must1 for the reasons given above1 stand over for the present4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,here is one#i1 however1 of simple construction1 which is made on a wire foundation4 ,take half an ounce of six-inch hair in tight ,sevigny curls4 ,adjust the weaving-frame1 with a wire 7instead of silk7 in the centre1 as has been before described4 ,make about fifteen inches of close or 8once-in0 weft4 ,comb out the hair carefully1 curl up1 and securely finish off the weft4 ,cut down4 ,fold the weft in three equal portions1 and neatly1 yet firmly1 sew the ends together4 ,take a piece of watch-spring1 one-and-a-half or two inches long1 and adapt it to fit the bend of the head4 ,round off the ends1 which is to be done with a small1 fine file1 or by rubbing the corners on a stone4 ,protect the ends with a piece of waxed kid1 thin leather1 or parchment1 and then cover the spring with galloon4 ,the galloon should be as narrow as possible1 with the ends carefully turned in and stitched2 it must also be sewn 8over and over0 at the sides4 ,gently hammer to make it as flat as possible2 and ,i need scarcely observe that the stitches in this1 and all other work should be small and almost invisible4 ,having thus prepared the spring1 put it in position1 namely1 in the centre of the mount1 the lower end being inside the weft1 to which it is to be sewn4 ,sew the top row to the top of the spring1 while the centre row of weft is1 of course1 to be attached to the middle of the spring4 ,tack the 8fringe0 on to a block1 and dress in a number of small curls1 as shown in the illustration4 ,another way is to take three-quarters of an ounce of short1 tight curled hair1 and make twenty inches of weft or more4 ,sew up into four rows and put two springs1 each one to be full an inch from the ends4 ,in this case1 the springs must not be quite so long as the previous one4 ,dress out as before4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,waved ,fringes#aj are made of curled hair1 perhaps twelve or fourteen inches in length1 or more1 as occasion may require4 ,the hair is closely woven upon silks1 and sewn up in diamond fashion2 the width and depth of the same being left to the maker's judgment4 ,this scalpette is very light and lies flat upon the front of the head and forehead4 ,the curl is 8broken0 by means of damping and a warm iron1 and sometimes by a 8touch10 but only experts can do it properly4 ,of course1 fringes can be made of all sizes and shapes2 that matter is generally regulated by the parties concerned1 and the price which is to be paid for the article4 ,some cover the whole front--in that case they would be nine or ten inches long1 or even longer1 while others are somewhat narrow1 extending from front to back2 others again have long hair at the sides 7only a small portion it is true72 but 8circumstances alter cases10 and the requirements of customers have to be considered4 ,but the most elegant1 vapoury1 and artistic 8fringes0 are1 par excellence1 those which come under the designation of 8water waves10 so-called1 ,i presume1 because water plays an important part in their manufacture4 ,m4 ,eugene ,mnard delivered a very instructive lecture on this subject at the ,acadmie ,internationale de ,coiffure1 in #ahhd1 and perhaps ,i cannot do better than quote a portion of it4 ,he said1 8,any quality of hair1 curled or straight1 fine or coarse1 can be made into water waves1 with more or less trouble2 but it is certain that fine natural curly hair is the best for that purpose4 ,in default of this hair1 which is now very scarce1 ,i should suggest what we call1 in ,french1 #8,croquignoles4' ,this will be found a capital substitute4 ,the next after this1 is what is termed in this country1 #8tight curl1' and so on1 but taking coarse and straight hair for the last1 as they never will keep waved4 ,in every instance the hair to be used for water waves1 must be well tapered1 and as much as possible of a pliable nature4 ,as to blocks1 those of porcelain or cardboard1 covered with prepared calf's skin or vellum1 will be found the most handy and useful for the purpose4 ,some1 ,i am aware1 make use of plain sheet-iron or glass1 and yet1 after having spent much time over it1 they are disappointed at not getting a better result4 ,why8 ,because it stands to reason that water waves made in that way1 when placed on the head1 will not fit any better than the sheet-glass itself1 the waves being bound to take the exact shape of that upon which they are made4 ,therefore1 this method will never do1 and the idea must be rejected4 ,others make use of wooden blocks2 certainly1 when these are new they are quite as good as porcelain1 but after they have been put into the oven two or three times--for water waves require to be thoroughly well dried--these blocks become rough and cracked1 and consequently1 quite useless for that kind of work4 ,some might1 perhaps1 object to have the water waves dried in the oven1 and would prefer the front of the fire only2 if so1 my answer would be this3 ,the wood block merely put to the front of the fire might bear the heat once or twice more before being spoilt1 but the water waves dried in like manner1 would assuredly never last half the time they would if dried in the oven4 ,experience shows that the oven is the only recipient in which damp hair can be thoroughly well dried1 i4e41 that the water waves will last with a natural waving appearance4 8,taking for granted that porcelain and cardboard blocks never crack nor become rough by a temperate heat1 ,i will now demonstrate the second great advantage of these two blocks4 8,firstly1 ,i shall deal with the porcelain block1 which will be found very suitable for making smooth and perfect water waves1 any kind of mounted postiche1 such as fringes1 partings1 fronts1 scalpettes1 etc4 ,here1 ,i dare say1 an apparent difficulty will be found1 as neither pins nor points can be driven into porcelain4 ,therefore1 in order to avoid it1 ,i should advise that the block be perforated in four or six different parts1 according to the shape of the mounted postiche to be dressed1 and then to fill the holes with a piece of best quality cork1 into which to drive pins and to fix therewith any piece of mounted postiche4 ,by so doing the apparent difficulty will be very easily and simply overcome4 ,for instance1 place first on the block the scalpette1 front1 parting1 or fringe1 in the same way as it is to be placed on the lady's head by whom it is to be worn1 and fix it with four or six pins2 next1 wet the hair right through1 and then when thoroughly saturated with water or spirits of wine1 brush or comb it down quite flat on the block1 and proceed thus3 ,maintain the mounting or the last wave made1 with the medium finger1 lift up gently the hair with the thumb of the same hand1 and with the comb in the other hand1 wet again to the utmost and make the wave1 between the two said fingers1 according to your wish of the way required4 ,when two or more waves are made1 keep the annular finger on the penultimate made wave and support the mounting with the little finger1 till you get to the end4 ,then wet with moderation in upholding the waves1 and lift them up again4 ,if necessary1 cover the dressed piece of postiche with fine muslin or net1 so as to see whether the waves are in or out of order2 put it into the oven1 which must be as hot as the hair can bear without being injured2 take it off when thoroughly dried2 let it get quite cold2 pass the comb through the waves1 flatten them with the hand1 and then you will get waves as smooth and as natural as can be imagined4 ,i dare say these water waves would cause many an experienced eye to be perplexed in the event of being called upon to make a distinction between them and natural ones4 ,never divide the hair when the divided parts are intended to make but one wave2 at least1 do not let it dry in that state1 or else the hair will never join together1 and the waves--if not entirely disfigured--will be1 at least1 awry or crooked4 ,on the contrary1 wave the whole of the hair at once1 even if it is a scalpette--,i mean if it is only one wave all round1 it is not more difficult1 and the waves will be regular4 ,when the hair1 however1 is over ten or twelve inches long1 the first two or three rows of waves might be made separately1 but then they must be joined together before proceeding any farther4 ,another thing to be observed in making water waves is1 that they be perfect before drying4 ,when the porcelain block becomes dirty1 wash it with soap or soda4 8,i shall now proceed with covered cardboard blocks4 ,vellum or prepared calf's skin1 as suggested1 is1 for the subject ,i am treating1 best adapted to cover cardboard blocks with4 ,these blocks will be found useful for almost any kind of postiche to be dressed in fantaisie water waves1 more especially for light pieces1 such as curls on pins1 marteaux for crown chignons1 flat twists1 false nuques releves1 transformations1 loose or unmounted hair1 as used by ,m4 ,auguste ,petit1 of ,paris1 for his well-known 8,universal ,postiche10 etc4 ,the way of proceeding for this kind of water waves is quite different to the former4 ,it will take more time to get the waves made1 as it necessitates two distinct preparations4 ,on the first one--although it is very easy to make--will depend the success of the second2 and on this second preparation1 which requires some little taste to make properly1 will depend the success of the waves1 whose beauty is to get them methodically hollow4 ,to proceed3 ,take the marteau or any other mounted or unmounted piece of hair--if mounted1 the mounting must be straight and not exceeding two inches wide1 so as to get the waves perfect from beginning to end--saturate it well1 and pin it on the block1 then comb it straight1 hold it flat between the index and the medium fingers of both hands1 and start1 either side1 by making a kind of zigzag in the same way as you would make waves with curls1 varying from one to two inches and a-half wide1 according to thickness and size of waves wanted4 ,these zigzags must be very regularly made1 and great care taken in order to always have the hair perfectly straight1 or in other words1 to prevent the underneath hair coming over1 and vice vers4 ,starting from the right side1 pull the whole of the piece of hair with the two above-mentioned fingers of the hand2 keep the piece of hair loose1 and close to the block1 between the two same fingers of the left hand1 just in the middle of the zigzag2 leave off1 first1 the medium finger of the right hand1 elevate it a little1 weigh gently on the hair with the index1 take this finger off1 fix the part made of the zigzag with a pin2 proceed in the same manner with the left hand1 and go on alternately till you get at the end of the piece of hair to be waved4 ,curl the extreme point of the hair if thought necessary4 ,then put it into the oven and let it well dry4 ,here ends the first preparation4 8,now for the second4 ,when the zigzag piece of hair is quite cold1 take off the pins that served to fix it on the block1 pass the comb through1 friz it underneath1 if necessary1 place and fix it again on the block1 but dry this time1 tap slightly over it1 fix another pin at each extremity of the intended waves1 attach a thin thread or cotton to the first pin1 pass that cotton or thread pretty tightly over the zigzag--which will now soon be a wave1--widen this in forming the hollow by the help of the fine teeth of a dressing comb1 tighten the thread1 stop it at the pin opposite the one from which the thread comes1 and so on till the last wave is made4 ,then damp the dressed piece of postiche1 put it once more into the oven2 let it thoroughly well dry2 and when quite cold1 take off pins and filament1 and you will get some splendid water waves ready to wear4 ,when pins driven into the skin-covering of the block leave a kind of rough bump caused by the heat1 pass over it the pressing iron1 and it will become flat and smooth again4 ,now1 concerning the liquid to be used--,i am of opinion that warm water1 previously boiled with a very little soda in it1 is the very best component to wet the hair with for water waves2 boiling water and soda1 or potash if preferred1 having both the property of softening the hair2 but1 of course1 this is only recommended for dark colours4 ,for light ones1 suppress the soda1 and for grey or white hair1 let the boiling water get quite cold1 and add to it a very little of ,reckitt's blue1 so as to prevent the hair from turning of a yellowish tint4 ,to dry this hair it will be also very prudent to cover it with light blue tissue paper4 ,spirits of wine is also a very good liquid to make use of for water waves2 it does not soften the hair so much as the above-stated1 but on the other hand1 it causes the waves made with it to last much longer4 ,to make use of it1 like water1 a great quantity is required1 more especially when waves are to be made on a porcelain block2 therefore1 unless a great number of waves are made with it1 it would cost very often more than the piece of postiche itself4 ,it is more adapted for hair merchants or coiffeurs posticheurs4 ,great care must be taken in using spirits of wine1 chiefly when postiche dressed with it is drying at the front of the fire4 ,the slightest spark would be enough to spoil it4 ,scalpettes and fringes1 as ,i have before indicated1 admit of great variety4 ,indeed1 both in make and style of dressing1 there is ample scope for the coiffeur to exhibit his skill1 and those scalpettes of a fanciful and gossamer-like character are remarkable for taste and ingenuity4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,to make one as indicated above1 with which long straight hair is associated1 take ten1 twelve or more inches of galloon 7according to the size decided upon71 double it together1 and sew firmly at the ends1 leaving1 say1 a quarter of an inch free4 ,find the centre of the galloon1 tack it by means of 8points0 to the forehead portion of a clean wig-block1 and affix the ends in a similar way2 your object being to make a 8mount0 about three inches deep in the centre1 four1 five1 or six inches long1 and tapering off at the sides4 ,the galloon ends1 of which ,i spoke just now1 must be at the top1 so that when taken off the block only a fine seam is noticeable4 ,having attended to this1 the mount has to be 8basted0 and formed4 ,the one ,i am describing is of a diamond shape1 and the basting stitches are to be at the bottom1 top1 and sides4 ,drive a point into the centre of the block an inch and a half below where you purpose the lower part of the mount to be4 ,use stout cotton1 single1 tie a knot at the end of it1 and attach to the 8point02 take a firm stitch through the galloon and draw it gently down into position4 ,twist the cotton round and round the 8point10 finishing with a loop made with the finger2 then take one or more similar stitches upon each side terminating in a like way4 ,give the 8point0 a tap or two with the hammer1 bend it down1 and knock the head of it into the block4 ,proceed with the top in a like fashion1 and then the ends1 or sides4 ,you have now made a step towards 8mounting10 and that which ,i have described is not by any means difficult of execution4 ,it must be borne in mind that ,i am not addressing myself to novices1 but to young men who1 at all events1 have some knowledge of the trade1 and ,i presume they will not experience much trouble in getting a practical illustration from a friend should they require it4 ,to proceed2 take the block in your lap1 and commence sewing on the net4 ,begin on the right-hand side of the inside edge of the bottom galloon1 the stitches being moderately close together4 ,having reached the left-hand corner1 turn the block round1 and commence sewing in the same manner to the inside edge of the top piece of galloon4 ,while all this is being done pull the net tight1 keep it smooth and avoid 8puckering10 cut away the superfluous net1 but--and this is important--the edge of the net which is stitched to the mount ought to well cover two-thirds of the galloon4 ,now you have both galloon and net upon the block1 and the work ought to be strong and secure4 ,a spring1 rubbed or filed down1 and covered as before described1 is to be placed in the centre2 but it must not overlap the mount1 either at top or bottom4 ,about half an ounce of short1 curled hair 7or less1 according to the size of the mount7 and an equal quantity of sixteen or eighteen inch straight hair will1 perhaps1 be sufficient2 but more can be added if desired4 ,the hair has to be made up into rather fine front-weft or 8twice-in40 ,the straight hair weft should also be fine1 and equally divided2 but the curled hair can be left all in one piece4 ,sew the straight hair on to the sides first2 begin at the point 7or end of the mount71 and let the rows of weft be firm1 regular1 and at equal distances from each other4 ,i need scarcely say that the straight hair has to be incorporated with the wearer's own hair when it is dressed1 and then two or three hair-pins will keep the 8fringe0 in place4 ,that portion of the mount to be covered with straight hair will depend upon circumstances1 of which you must be the judge4 ,the curled hair has now to be sewn to the mount4 8,fasten on securely10 as seamstresses would say1 and sew along the bottom of the galloon1 from right to left1 taking about one stitch to every weft4 ,turn the block1 and sew another row along the upper part of the galloon1 being careful to cover the free edge of the net1 which thus becomes stitched a second time by this operation4 ,the rows of weft are sewn in a like manner until the mount is covered4 ,when turning the weft see that it is done neatly where it joins the straight hair1 so that no irregularity or ugly spaces are visible4 ,the weft has now to be pressed 7for which a special tool called a 8pressing-iron0 is used71 and the hair properly arranged4 ,cut the basting stitches1 pull them out from the mount1 and examine your work4 ,if the stitches are very small1 the weft even1 the mount a good shape1 and the work unmistakably firm and secure1 ,i should pronounce it to be satisfactory2 but if there be imperfections in any of these respects1 then follow the best advice it is possible to give1 and1 8,try1 try1 try again40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,this design shows a scalpette1 intended to cover the top of the head1 and1 when it is worn1 the straight hair should be tied1 or twisted in with the natural hair at the back4 ,a covering of this description is very useful when a bald place exists1 or there is a thinness of the natural growth of the hair4 ,in making it1 the following instructions should be observed3 ,upon a clean block1 mark with a black lead pencil 7in its proper position7 the form and size of the mount wanted4 ,take a piece of galloon and commence by driving a point or two through it1 somewhere about the temple4 ,keep it firm by means of points1 as you proceed along the pencilled lines1 until both ends of the galloon meet4 ,cut off1 but leave sufficient length to take hold of with the thumb and finger4 ,pinch together1 and with needle and silk sew tight and close1 leaving short ends as before4 ,i will suppose that you intend to put on a mount four inches deep1 and five inches wide1 in shape nearly square1 the front 7or lower galloon7 being drawn down a little4 ,you will have to put basting stitches at the four corners1 and also in the centre to make it the desired form4 ,sew on a piece of galloon extending from left to right1 an inch and a-half from the top1 one spring in the middle1 and others if necessary to keep the corners out4 ,cover with net1 and the mount is complete4 ,you now have an inch and a-half space for the back hair and two and a-half inches space for the front1 the joinings taking place upon the piece of galloon affixed for the purpose4 ,sew on the straight hair first1 and then the curled1 observing the directions before given4 ,about half an ounce of short curled hair will be sufficient for the one part1 and three-quarters of an ounce of sixteen or eighteen-inch hair for the other4 ,fine weft2 press1 finish off1 and a reference to the illustration#aa will show its arrangement4 ,a great many articles of this description are 8knotted0 instead of being woven1 and it is simply mentioned here to enable me to say that ,i shall deal with that part of the subject by-and-bye4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,the ,changeability of ,fashion--,bandeaux1 ,fronts1 and ,fillets--,plain ,bandeaux--,waved ,bandeaux1 with ,fringe--,to ,wave the ,hair of ,bandeaux--,french 7woven7 ,fronts--,french 7woven7 ,fronts1 with ,parting--,diamond-shaped and ,wing ,fronts--,temple-mounted ,fronts--,fillets or ,cauls4 ,fashion is ever changing1 and the fickle goddess does not seem to know her own mind for very long together4 ,and this remark is as applicable to hairdressing as it is to dress1 or1 indeed1 anything else with which the leaders of ton have to do4 ,to coiffeurs nothing perhaps is more interesting than a perusal of old illustrated books1 and to note the various styles of coiffure4 ,fifty years ago1 when ,felix displayed his talent in hairdressing1 the front was distinguished by a cluster of curls1 made with properly cut and tapered hair of about seven or eight inches in length1 and these curls were designated 8frizzed10 or 8,french curls40 ,old hairdressers can remember the 8,french ,fronts10 to which ,i shall merely allude4 ,they were made upon wires1 with full and round curls 7though done with a thin layer of hair71 and the roots as well as the points were woven in together4 ,there would probably be five1 six1 or seven of these curls upon each side2 but for an illustration of them ,i can only refer the reader to the fashions of bye-gone days4 ,at the period to which ,i am referring 7and long after71 it was no uncommon thing to find in hairdressers' shops a large stock of fronts and bands1 and though they may never come into general use again1 still1 those who wish to be proficient in board-work1 should learn how to make them4 ,to be well-grounded in the rudiments of any trade is of the greatest importance1 for all must have a beginning1 and the more skilful work of the clever tradesman will surely follow after4 ,there used to be a good demand for ,french 7woven7 ,ringlet ,fronts1 and being so light and pretty1 the ingenious way of making them1 ,i think1 ought to be preserved4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,the weaving frame1 then1 resembles that which was before shown1 but has more silks upon it4 ,the peg is specially made for this kind of work1 and there are a number of grooves for the silks1 but one with twelve spaces will perhaps answer every purpose4 ,wind the silks upon it in the usual way1 and tie up in groups of three according to the customary mode4 ,let each knot 7which forms a stop to the weft7 be in a line1 thus-- and have nine of the silks placed in position as shown in the illustration4#ab ,take first a piece of straight hair of the same colour as the curls1 and about twelve inches long1 and draw out what is best described as a coarse weft4 ,this has to be plaited1 as it were1 upon all the silks employed in making the 8front40 ,hold the root end between the thumb and finger of the left hand1 having the long hair uppermost4 ,commence by placing it at the back of the lower silk1 and draw it through4 ,then over two1 under 7or behind7 three1 over two and behind the top one4 ,continue in the same fashion downwards1 but reversing the movement until the whole of the hair is worked up4 ,plait tight2 but it can be made close and firm by pulling the hair as frequently as possible to get it into shape4 7,see the ends and centre of the next engraving47 ,having thus worked the hair1 finish off at the lower three silks by drawing the ends towards you1 and leave it so for the present4 ,take three-quarters of an ounce1 or an ounce of twelve-inch ringlet hair1 and divide into two equal parts1 bearing in mind that the curls have to be separated and classed together1 and also that curls should always turn to the face1 as ,i have repeatedly stated4 ,place the proper portion into the drawing brushes1 and weave five inches of moderately fine close weft upon the three lower silks4 ,next make four inches and three-quarters of the same description of weft upon the three middle silks1 leaving a quarter of an inch space between the end of the plait and the weft2 the reason for doing so will presently appear4 ,now weave five inches of the same kind of weft upon the three top silks1 and the end of each row must be regular4 ,draw off another coarse strand of the straight hair1 and plait all the silks together as before4 ,three rows of weft are now to be done exactly the same1 leaving the quarter of an inch space at the corresponding end2 then take a third strand of straight hair and make a finishing plait as at the beginning4 ,the whole length of the 8front0 should be eleven inches1 including the plaited ends1 and centre piece4 ,the above illustration is so plain that no mistake can possibly arise if proper attention be given to the subject4 ,comb out the hair as each row is completed1 and form into curls4 ,now warm a pair of pinching irons1 press each section of the weft1 and carefully remove with the scissors all superfluous ends and hairs4 ,cut the centre silk of each group of three1 finish off securely and then cut down4 ,i said just now that the reason for leaving the space at the ends of the middle row of weft would shortly appear1 and you are now to take hold of those three silks and pull them4 ,do so at each end1 the result will be to shorten the centre row2 thus enabling you1 with the help of springs1 to form the mount as designed4#ac ,make two springs1 file down the ends1 cover with kid or parchment1 and sew them up in narrow galloon4 ,stitch the sides nicely1 and fix them to each row of weft by means of a needle and silk4 ,the springs may be about two inches long1 and1 of course1 must be put on carefully4 ,strings of galloon are to be affixed1 and so far as the making is concerned1 the job is finished4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,it is now to be placed upon a block1 pressed and dressed as indicated in the wood-cut 7p4 #aai74 ,the number of curls is immaterial1 for the hair may be arranged in three upon each side1 or there might be as many as a dozen4 ,in addition to the kind just described1 there is another way of proceeding so as to introduce a patent silk1 or skin parting4 ,these fronts can be made very light1 and seeing that there is no net and but little galloon1 ventilation does not suffer impediment4 ,proceed as follows3--,set up the weaving frame as shown in ,fig4 #ba1 but instead of nine silks there are now to be twelve4 ,tie them in threes as before1 and intertwine a piece of straight1 twelve-inch hair according to the following directions3--,hold the root end1 pointing downwards1 firmly between the thumb and finger of the left hand1 and also the lower silk4 ,push the long hair through1 pass two silks1 and bring the hair to the front again4 ,then pass three1 push the hair through1 and pass three more1 draw it forward1 pass two1 and over the top one4 ,the hair plait 7for plait it is7 is now to be continued downwards1 but the movements are to be reversed4 ,i will describe this in another way4 ,say that you are holding the hair in the manner set forth above1 together with the first lowest silk--now--over one1 under two1 over three1 under three1 over two1 under one1 and over the top1 reversing the order of plaiting up and down till the length of hair is all used4 ,you must 8manuvre0 or work it a little1 so as to get it tight1 firm1 and regular1 and fasten off as previously instructed4 ,take three-quarters of an ounce1 or an ounce1 of ringlet hair of the required length1 say ten or twelve inches4 ,separate the curls1 putting all those which turn one way together1 and do the same with the other lot4 ,bear in mind that curls should always turn to the face4 ,weigh the two portions1 so that you may have an equal quantity of hair to work with4 ,make four inches and three-quarters of weft on the lower silks2 four-and-a-half inches of weft on the next group2 a like quantity on the group above1 and five-and-a-quarter inches of weft upon the top4 ,there is to be a vacancy of a quarter of an inch 7near the plait7 in the second and third rows1 and this will explain why they differ from the lower one4 ,as there is to be a patent parting1 a space of an inch and a-half 7but this depends upon the width of the parting7 must be left in the centre to which you have now arrived2 the top row forming an exception1 and that is to be woven right along1 without any break whatever4 ,commence weaving in the order just described upon the other side1 leaving the quarter-inch spaces at the ends of the second and third rows as before4 ,complete the weaving of the top row2 see that the weft joins properly in the middle1 because all should be uniform and regular4 ,make a corresponding plait to that which you did at the beginning2 pinch the weft with warm irons2 fasten off securely1 and cut down4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,it has now to be mounted4 ,take a clean wig-block--there are two kinds1 let me observe1 8mounting0 blocks and 8combing0 blocks--but it is to the former that ,i am alluding4 ,partings vary in depth1 but the front here pourtrayed is four inches deep1 and ,i will assume that you are going to make a similar one4 ,have some ribbon the full width of the parting 7after the edges of the latter are tacked71 and cut off five inches4 ,turn up the lower edge of the ribbon and lay the smooth surface upon the block1 exactly in the centre1 and just where the front should be worn when upon the head4 ,drive two points into the block1 at short but equal distances from each other2 take a needle and cotton1 single1 tie a knot1 and 8fasten on0 to a point3 pass the needle through one corner of the ribbon1 and secure the cotton to the point below4 ,proceed in the same way with the other corner4 ,turn the block round1 bend up the end of the ribbon as before1 and secure the corners by means of basting stitches in a like manner4 ,remember1 that in weaving ,i directed quarter-inch spaces to be left at both ends of the two inner rows of weft4 ,now draw the silks out a quarter of an inch so as to bring the weft close to the plait1 for by this movement you will be enabled to spread out the top and bottom rows to the ends of the springs1 while the centre rows are tightened and nearly straight1 as they should be4 ,next sew the strings on to the plaited ends2 make two springs1 each a full quarter of an inch deeper than the parting2 cover as previously instructed1 and fix in their appointed places4 7,fig4 #bd clearly pourtrays all that is here described47 ,the two middle rows of weft need not be sewn to them yet4 ,now place all upon the block1 get the mounted ribbon exactly in the middle1 take hold of the strings1 pull tight and drive a point through them at the back1 in the place where they should be tied by the wearer4 ,arrange so as to keep the top row of hair out of the way2 let the lower silks be a quarter of an inch above the place where the parting touches the forehead1 and fix all in their respective positions by means of a needle and silk4 ,secure the two middle rows of weft to the springs in the same way4 ,now to affix the parting4 ,turn in the edges of the silk or skin upon which the parting is worked1 and 8tack0 them in such a manner that the lowest portion 7being the most important7 is turned up last4 ,the parting is now to be sewn neatly to the ribbon1 commencing at the bottom2 both should exactly fit1 and1 what is most important1 only the parting is to be seen where it touches the brow4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,the pressing iron can now be used1 the curls--be they many or few--arranged1 a pair of side-combs placed in position if desired1 and the front is finished1 as above shown4 ,there are other fronts with ringlet curls beside those just described4 ,for instance1 there is a mounted front of a diamond shape1 which is made to slide1 technically called a 8diamond0 front4 ,it is made as follows3 cut off two pieces of galloon about eight or nine inches in length each4 ,sew the ends 7through and through1 not over and over7 neat and firm2 these are for the two sides4 ,place one of them upon a block1 in the position it is intended to be worn4 ,the ends of the galloon 7where it has been sewn7 must be uppermost at any place except a corner4 ,open the ends and hammer slightly1 so as to make them lie as flat as possible4 ,take four points1 and spread out the galloon in a diamond shape1 so that it will be about two inches deep1 and perhaps four inches long4 ,now take your needle and cotton1 points1 c41 and baste out in the required form2 the upper and lower bastings 7where the springs go7 to be somewhat pointed2 the ends are to be square1 equal to the width of the galloon forming the strings4 ,make another mounting on the corresponding side of the block1 and both must be alike in every particular4 ,upon the block 7between the right and left sides of the mountings7 a space of two inches or more should be left1 because the wearer's own hair must be seen when the curls are worn4 ,bear in mind this is to be a sliding front1 and the lady will be able to adjust the curls to her own wishes or taste4 ,now1 the two sides being in their proper positions1 and firmly secured by means of the basting stitches1 sew a piece of galloon on one side only from one end to the other2 the reason for doing so will presently be given4 ,cut off sufficient galloon for the strings1 and this must be long enough to encircle the head1 leaving plenty to tie in a double bow as well4 ,find the centre of the galloon1 and temporarily fasten it with a point between the mounts4 ,one of these strings is to be continued along the mount1 corresponding with that upon which a piece of galloon has been sewn1 the remainder being fastened by means of a point in the neck4 ,the other half is to be abruptly turned back over the crown1 and temporarily secured to keep it out of the way4 ,measure off two springs1 grind the ends1 cover with narrow galloon as previously instructed1 and fix in their respective places4 ,put on the net2 sew it to the inner edges of the mount only1 and to both sides of the centre galloons and springs4 ,the mountings are now ready for the hair4 ,take sufficient hair1 say one ounce of twelve-inch ringlet1 and divide it equally4 ,weave a top row first1 and ordinary front weft with the remainder4 ,do the same with the second lot of hair4 ,remember what ,i have said before--8,all curls should turn to the face40 ,sew on the weft1 beginning at the bottom of the lower galloon1 turn the corners neatly2 let the weft appear in regular rows1 and1 lastly1 sew on the top row4 ,comb out the hair and curl it over the fingers in proper form before doing the other side1 which1 when done1 is to be treated in a similar manner4 ,warm your pressing iron1 divide the weft in conveniently small portions1 and press carefully4 ,take the mountings off the block1 and now ,i will give my reason for sewing on the first piece of galloon1 namely1 because this is the mounting intended to slide4 ,cut off another piece of galloon an inch longer than appears to be necessary4 ,turn in about half an inch at one end1 and sew the corners securely to one of the ends of the mount4 ,neatly stitch the edge of this piece of galloon to the edge of that which is attached to the mount1 but before fastening off1 turn in the free end as you did at the beginning4 ,sew along the other edge of the galloon as before1 and secure the stitches4 ,now there is a hollow space for the string to travel through1 and a bodkin is the necessary instrument for leading it in the first instance4 ,replace the front upon the block1 dress and arrange the curls as required4 ,wing ,fronts are made in a similar way1 but instead of being of a diamond form they are shaped like birds' wings2 the narrow end1 of course1 towards the upper part of the head1 and the broad part near the ears4 ,mounts of this shape are very pretty1 the curls lie nicely together1 and1 furthermore1 they are easy to wear4 ,bandeaux1 or as they are more generally termed1 8bands10 embrace a variety of designs to suit different requirements4 ,some are made plain with a patent parting of silk or skin2 others have net1 gauze1 or human hair foundations1 and latterly a material called 8,yak-hair0 has been used1 which answers the same purpose1 and is less expensive4 ,then1 again1 there are bandeaux with waved hair or waved hair and 8fringes10 while others have long hair attached for combing in with the natural hair at the back4 ,indeed1 this branch of the business offers a wide field for the display of taste1 judgment1 and ability4 ,the hair used to be 8banded0 and then secured at or near the end of the mount1 and dressing 8bands0 and 8fronts0 in the days of my apprenticeship was a continual source of employment and profit4 ,the hair1 at the time ,i speak of1 was generally worn smooth1 oils and pomades were in request1 and rough hairdressing1 it was thought1 showed want of skill on the part of the hairdresser4 ,but styles are ever-changing1 and what is approved to-day will1 perhaps1 be condemned to-morrow4 ,from smooth hairdressing we come to that which is dry1 wavy1 frizzy and crisp1 and ,i am disposed to think that ladies sometimes imagine a coiffure should present a rough appearance to obtain approval4 ,this loose method of arranging the hair is to the advantage of bandeaux1 and coverings for bald places1 because the false piece can be more easily arranged by the wearer4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,to make a plain bandeau1 take a yard and a-half of galloon1 measure ten inches from one of the ends but do not cut it off4 ,turn it back and give it two or three raps with the hammer so as to make a mark4 ,keep the galloon even and smooth1 and turn back another ten inches at the other end2 both of which are to be brought together4 ,the ends are to be turned in1 and stitched over and over4 ,double these sewn pieces exactly in the centre1 and tap with the hammer again4 ,open out1 and you will find that a mount of between nine and ten inches is begun4 ,now take a mounting block1 which should be clean and smooth1 and place the galloon thereon4 ,the centre of the mount has already been found1 and after opening it 7say7 two inches1 temporarily fix by means of points in the centre of the block4 ,there is no difficulty about this because a fine line marks the place1 and ,i need scarcely say the mount should be on the block exactly as it is intended to be worn on the head4 ,with the block in your lap 7the face being turned inwards7 take the galloon in each hand1 pull tight1 double one piece over the other1 and drive a point through both at the back of the neck4 ,hammer it down firmly1 and then fix the remainder of the galloon1 which ,i need hardly say is intended for the strings1 as you think proper1 so long as they are out of your way4 ,i will now suppose that you are going to make a three-inch silk or skin patent parting band1 therefore you must commence with basting the lower galloon first1 and then the top one1 drawing it back at the same time1 so as to give the necessary depth4 ,indeed1 if you make it a rule to give a quarter of an inch more depth than the parting1 it will be1 ,i think1 all the better4 ,next draw back the lower centre1 and form a pretty curve1 the object being to keep the galloon out of the way lest it be seen in the most critical part of your work1 and1 further1 that the parting should lie upon the forehead both flat and close4 ,having done basting1 the next thing is to put on the springs4 ,break two pieces of watch spring the proper length2 the ends of which are to be rounded off and covered with kid or parchment1 afterwards neatly enclosing the springs in galloon4 ,they should have just sufficient bend to easily fit the head1 and assist in holding the parting in position4 ,a reference to the engraving will illustrate all that ,i have endeavoured to explain4#ad ,having well secured the mount which1 let me say1 should always be tight and firm upon the block1 take a piece of ribbon1 exactly the width of the centre between the springs1 and sew thereon1 the object of this being to give a neat appearance to the band when off the block1 and1 also1 to conceal the work in the parting which otherwise could be seen4 ,the net should next be attached1 as directed in previous instructions1 and then the mount will be completed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,in addition to the parting1 take an ounce of the best hair 7say7 sixteen inches long 7the hair in the parting being of the same length71 and weave a top row4 ,weave the remainder of the hair in rather fine front weft1 and then divide1 marking the division1 however1 by merely tying a piece of string in the place4 ,the parting should next be dealt with2 turn in the edges as previously directed1 8tacking0 as you proceed1 and finishing with the lower portion4 ,sew the parting in its proper position1 beginning with the two corners in front2 it will then be as well to sew it at the top1 and afterwards the sides4 ,the parting should be straight1 and exactly in the centre2 perfectly smooth1 and not stretched or puckered in any direction4 ,the weft must be sewn on next1 but should there be a rather wide space between the parting and the top edge of the galloon1 put in two or three rows of weft first4 ,sew the weft along the bottom and top edge of the galloon and then at regular intervals until one side is completed4 ,do the same with the other side1 and1 finally1 put on the top row4 ,the number of rows will1 of course1 depend upon the quantity of weft1 of which you must be the judge1 and calculate accordingly4 ,press1 tie the hair of each side together or loosely plait in three1 leaving the wearer to arrange it when upon the head4 ,what ,i have already said is sufficient to show the learner how to make a 8band0 with a parting of either silk or skin1 or any other similar substance4 ,indeed1 when a 8band0 has to be produced for a very low price1 it can be made without a patent parting at all1 as the parting can be made to consist of weft only4 ,to do this1 the springs need not be so wide apart1 and the intervening space is to be filled up with weft1 sewn close1 one row after the other1 beginning at the bottom4 ,if the weft is well done and fine1 it will lie flat1 then1 with the comb1 a parting should be made1 and pressed into shape4 ,true1 the wearer cannot show the parting1 but such work is designed for elderly ladies1 and the cap border1 or other head-gear hides it completely4 ,partings are generally used1 however1 and ,i merely allude to this very plain way of making a 8band0 to suit humble and1 necessarily1 economical customers4 ,for making a ,waved ,bandeau1 with fringe1 turn to the instructions for mounting already given1 and notice the mount upon the block4 ,a mount of a similar description is to be made1 but without the arched piece of galloon in the centre1 for the parting being of a transparent material1 the skin of the head should be seen through it4 ,besides1 a dark line of galloon just in the most conspicuous spot would be sadly out of order4 ,proceed as follows3 ,take a clean block1 and mark with a pencil the exact dimensions of the mount1 in its proper place4 ,be very particular about this1 because the pencilled lines you should strictly adhere to4 ,these lines1 then1 having been made1 commence by driving a point through the end of the galloon near the crown1 and on your right side as the tracing faces you4 ,continue the galloon down to the angle upon the forehead where the spring goes1 and fix with a point4 ,keep the galloon flat1 and turn it towards the ear where it is also to be secured4 ,pass the galloon along the top1 and when in the centre of the block 7being mindful of the depth of the parting7 drive in another point4 ,for the other side continue the galloon as before1 and end on the top of the block in a corresponding position to that where it begins4 ,the mount should then resemble the illustration to which your attention is directed 7,fig4 #bf71 but with this difference--the centre arched portion of the galloon is absent4 ,the galloon is now to be 8basted10 and preceding instructions observed4 ,the mount being tight and firm1 the strings are to be neatly sewn on1 fixed in the neck1 and the long ends put out of the way as before4 ,it is now seen that there is a gap in the centre1 and unless some kind of stay is put at the lower part1 the parting will1 in all probability1 soon get torn4 ,to obviate this1 it is usual to employ a material called 8silk-worm gut10 which is securely fastened across the bottom1 or nearly at the bottom1 for the parting should be so arranged as to lie flat on the forehead--the closer it lies the better4 ,sometimes a white horse hair is used for the purpose1 and occasionally white silk1 but whatever the material1 it should be strong and durable4 ,it is usual1 also1 to put additional 8stays0 about an inch apart1 right along the parting1 for they are not seen upon the head1 and much greater strength is given to the article4 ,indeed1 when the parting is more than three inches deep it is absolutely necessary to do so4 ,put on the springs as before1 let them be narrow1 and in this instance they may be covered with black tape1 as the galloon upon which they will be sewn conceals them from view when off the block4 ,now attach the net1 and the mounting is completed4 ,a mount1 let me observe1 should be accurately designed1 and measurements taken from any convenient place upon the block must correspond1 one side with the other4 ,indeed1 where much board-work is done1 it is a strong recommendation to be a good 8mounter10 and a correct eye is not among the least of such a man's qualifications4 ,it matters not how well done the knotting1 weaving1 or sewing may be2 should the mount be inexact1 the work is faulty from the very commencement1 and might result in the article being returned4 ,this is best avoided4 ,therefore1 make it a rule to 8start fair0 with your work1 and1 if slow1 be sure1 remembering at all times that 8practice makes perfect10 and how important it is that strict attention should be paid to minute details4 ,the mount having been finished1 the next thing is to put in a transparent parting1 with a 8fringe40 ,this 8fringe0 should be of short1 curled hair1 which can be arranged when the job is finished4 ,in transparent partings generally there are no edges to turn up1 like those made of silk or skin1 and alluded to before4 ,commence by sewing the parting to the corner of the mount on your right hand first1 finish off1 and then attach it to the corresponding corner on the left side1 keeping the line of parting exactly in the middle4 ,it will then be proper to sew the top2 see that it is firm1 straight1 and smooth1 and conclude by stitching the sides4 ,about the same length and quantity of hair will be required for this as was used in the previous one2 therefore1 weave a top row1 divide the weft1 and proceed according to the instructions already given4 ,sew the weft on in rows1 beginning at the bottom2 neatly and securely turn the corners2 and1 lastly1 affix the top row4 ,press1 and dress as required2 take it off the block1 draw out the basting stitches1 and the work is done1 unless you wish to give a waviness to the hair4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,of course the hair can be left straight if desired1 but if waved 7it need not be very strong71 the effect is much more natural4 ,put the band on the block again1 and the hair can be waved in either of the following ways3--7#a7 ,by plaiting4 ,slightly damp the hair1 and make two or more three-plaits upon each side4 ,plait rather tight1 and pinch with moderately warm irons1 but only sufficient to remove the moisture1 if any1 and to fix the wave4 ,this1 perhaps1 is the most simple and natural way of doing it4 7#b7 ,with hair-pins4 ,divide the side-hair in two or three equal portions1 so as to make the wave regular and uniform4 ,take a long hair-pin1 and with the left hand hold it close to the roots of one of the pieces1 keeping the prongs rather wide apart4 ,then1 with the right hand1 entwine the piece of hair in and out1 as though forming with it any number of figures #h4 ,having come to the ends 7or done as much as you consider necessary71 push up close to the head of the pin1 turning back one of the points to keep the hair well in place4 ,do the same with all2 pinch with warm irons1 and allow it to be quite cold before drawing out the pins4 7#c7 ,curling-irons are used also for waving the hair1 but1 although permissible when dressing a lady's hair1 ,i do not advise their use for work of this description4 ,there are other methods of waving hair1 as with string1 card1 wire1 etc41 but what ,i have described1 if carefully done1 will answer nearly all requirements4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,temple-,mounted ,fronts4--,measure off twenty-three inches of galloon1 double it1 and stitch at the ends through and through4 ,shift the ends a little1 so that they will come anywhere but where basting stitches are likely to be put4 ,now double the galloon again1 tap it with the hammer1 open it1 and you will find that you have made two creases4 ,put these creases upon the line which marks the centre of the block1 and fix them with points to about the depth of the parting4 ,take other points and bring the mount into shape4 ,you will now require a rule1 or tape measure1 a pair of compasses1 and a large double-threaded needle1 to enable you to make correct measurements4 ,you can measure from any convenient spot1 but when the strings are on1 they should be so adjusted that1 when off the block and tightened1 the mount will incline inwards both at top and bottom1 thus proving that it will bind1 or fit well to the head4 ,the shape is well defined in the illustration1#ae and the places where basting stitches are to be put distinctly shown4 ,springs are made and fixed on the top about the width of the parting1 the intervening space being filled up with a piece of ribbon4 ,a spring is also placed on each side near the ear1 so as to keep the mount well in shape1 and the strings1 as will be seen1 are made to cross over from the bottom galloon to the top4 ,the trained eye will perceive at a glance how comfortable this shaped mount is likely to be to the wearer4 ,having sewn on the net1 commencing1 as usual1 upon the inner edge of the lower galloon1 the next thing is to put in the parting1 which should be either skin or silk--but if transparent a deviation will have to be made as already explained4 ,the same remark applies as to whether the hair should be knotted or woven4 ,these matters must always be decided upon at first1 when the mount is commenced4 ,take 7say7 #a oz4 of twelve-inch ringlet hair1 and put the curls in two lots as usual4 ,weigh one parcel against the other1 and balance evenly4 ,remember what ,i have said about the curls inclining to the face4 ,make a thin top row1 comb out1 and cut down4 ,weave the hair in fine front weft1 and contrive to make it of a similar length for both sides4 ,commence sewing on at or near the string1 and proceed as before instructed4 ,in stitching on the weft be careful to well secure the net1 and the spaces must be according to the length of the weft used--certainly they should not be so much as a quarter of an inch apart4 ,let both sides be uniform and alike in every respect4 ,press and dress as required1 and retain the hair in position by means of side-combs4 ,if1 at the outset1 it is decided to 8knot0 the hair1 then the mount should be prepared accordingly1 respecting which ,i have given instructions in another place4#af ,fillets 7or ,cauls74--,a fillet signifies a little band intended to tie about the hair2 and a caul 7probably a modification of cowl7 intimates1 in trade parlance1 a net or some such covering for the head4 ,but that which ,i am going to describe is probably unknown to many1 although it was formerly adopted by elderly women instead of a wig4 ,this can be accounted for in two or three ways4 7#a7 ,because at the time ,i speak of 8fronts0 were generally worn2 7#b7 ladies' wigs were heavy and expensive1 and 7#c7 a fillet or caul1 being much cheaper1 well answered the purpose4 ,indeed1 where the necessity exists for wearing a head covering1 through loss of hair1 or other causes1 perhaps a fillet would be most acceptable to many in want of some such assistance4 ,proceed as follows3 ,measure the head1 and use a mounting-block about one inch larger in size4 ,put on any shaped mount you please so long as it is adapted to the purpose1 and suits the requirement of the lady for whom it is intended4 ,in place of strings use a piece of wide galloon which is neatly attached to the mount1 and fits comfortably round the head4 ,the galloon may be half an inch or more in width1 or a mount can be made in the neck 7extending from ear to ear7 resembling that portion of a lady's wig4 ,having the mount1 springs1 and wide galloon in position1 you have next to obtain a silk net1 and put it on to the block1 covering the entire mount and neck-piece as well4#ag ,the meshes of the net should not be too open1 because the weft has to be sewn upon a part of it4 ,i need hardly observe that no portion of the net must be allowed to project over the lower edges of the galloon and mount4 ,the hair is now to be divided as before2 a top-row woven1 and good front1 or 8twice-in0 weft made4 ,bear in mind that instead of sewing it along the lower galloon1 and turning at the parting and strings1 it is now to be sewn from bottom to top2 in other words--begin sewing on the weft where the wide galloon joins2 let the hair incline or fall over the ear1 and1 as ,i said just now1 sew the weft from bottom to top1 turning each row upon the lower and upper galloon4 ,the reason is1 that as the meshes are much more open than in the ordinary description of net1 the rows of weft ought to be shortened so as to give additional strength4 ,having finished the front part1 attention must now be directed to the back1 or rather that portion which fits in the neck and extends from ear to ear4 ,have ready 7say7 half an ounce of 8,sevigny10 or 8doll0 hair4 ,this is tight curled hair of about four or five inches in length--the same in fact as that used in making 8fringes40 ,weave very fine1 and sew on to the wide galloon1 turning at each end of it4 ,the long and short hair will thus meet near the front of the ear1 where the joining must be neat4 ,if the hair is to be worn either plain or wavy and banded1 of course hair 7say7 of sixteen inches in length should be used1 but if in curls1 probably ten or twelve-inch hair will be sufficient4 ,dress as required4 ,the short-curled hair 7after the work is pressed7 can be arranged in small ring curls1 or in the manner of a close fringe4 ,remember1 ,i said that a block somewhat larger than the head was to be used1 and the reason is plain4 ,the fillet is sure to be large enough1 and this will allow for shrinking2 besides1 there is to be an elastic spring put in the neck which must be done so as to grip or bind the head properly4 ,if these details are carefully attended to1 the fillet will fit 8like a glove10 be a source of comfort to the wearer1 and a credit to the maker4 ,how an elastic spring is to be placed and held in position will appear in due course4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,general ,observations on the ,manufacture of ,partings and ,crowns--,non-transparent ,partings2 ,silk and ,skin--,transparent ,partings2 ,net1 ,gauze1 ,yak1 and ,human ,hair ,foundations--8,the ,genealogy of ,implantation0--,knotting1 and some remarks thereon--,single ,knotting--,double ,knotting4 ,partings1 no matter for what use they may be intended1 are either transparent or opaque4 ,the foundation of transparent partings is invariably net1 gauze1 yak hair1 or human 7white7 hair1 the two latter substances being specially adapted to the purpose4 ,indeed1 anything that will enable the worker to imitate nature so closely as to defy detection1 might be employed1 if it be durable and impervious to the effects of perspiration--two points never to be overlooked4 ,the great art of parting-making is to cause the joining 7where it comes in contact with the forehead7 to be so exquisitely well done1 that it passes unnoticed even by a keen-sighted and critical observer4 ,now is a chance for some ingenious young man to make himself famous1 as perfection is not yet reached1 ,i venture to think in this respect4 ,true1 the 8fringe0 goes far to produce a natural appearance in those who are still young1 but a 8fringe0 is out of place altogether upon the brow of a matronly dame1 or attached to the parting of a gentleman's wig2 therefore ,i repeat there yet remains something to be done in the matter of partings1 and probably a fortune awaits the lucky inventor4 ,but there are professed patent parting makers1 and1 as a rule1 it is most advisable to purchase this portion of the work ready made1 or have it done to order4 ,when convenient1 especially if a hairdresser resides at a distance from ,london or certain provincial towns1 it is expedient to keep a small stock of such goods in the house1 for occasionally it happens that an order is wanted in a hurry4 ,most in request are partings of three1 three and a-half and four inches deep1 made with hair sixteen or eighteen inches long1 and1 ,i may add1 common colours4 ,here then is a little 8stock-in-trade0 which is sure to come in useful4 ,should the reader1 however1 wish to make the parting himself1 ,i will merely say that 8foundations0 of the usual length and width can be obtained through the usual trade channels1 but ,i may hazard an opinion1 which is1 that very few hairdressers execute this kind of work themselves4 ,non-transparent partings are made upon silk or skin1 the latter consisting of a very thin skin upon white or pale-pink silk4 ,i have known other substances used 7more by way of an experiment than anything else7 but the foundations named are1 so far as ,i am aware1 universally employed4 ,silk partings are the cheapest1 skin partings and net partings come next1 and so on1 the price per inch being regulated according to width1 foundation1 length and quality of the hair1 workmanship1 c4 ,it is worthy of observation that fronts1 in years gone by1 were almost universally worn by married women4 8,the first grey hair0 gave the signal1 and a visit to the hairdresser followed shortly after4 ,his aid was invoked1 and1 if holding a good position in the trade1 his design was to produce a front natural in appearance1 and sufficiently open in the parting1 to suit the expression of the features4 ,but since the introduction of silk and skin partings 7which occasionally show a division little more than a straight line7 the aim seems to be different1 and a parting is produced thicker and closer than would be seen on a young girl's head4 ,the result of this is to impart a heavy aspect to the countenance1 which is at all times undesirable1 and will account in some degree for their discontinuance4 ,these unnatural-looking partings are sometimes demanded by persons who make no pretension to good taste1 and they will not be advised by the tradesman1 who knows full well what is likely to suit them best4 ,partings which require the most skill in their manufacture1 if the aim be to produce a good article1 are silk and skin partings1 and to make the first of these proceed as follows3--,in proportion to the length of parting required prepare a stout wire frame--say six inches long1 and four inches wide1 and that you are going to work a three and a-half inch parting4 ,with the help of a needle and stout cotton1 stretch the silk firm and secure in the centre of the frame1 so that it is immovable and longer than required4 ,weave the hair in 8close10 or 8once in0 weft1 keeping it free from grease or dirt lest the foundation be soiled4 ,attach the weft to the back of the silk1 and draw a few hairs through at a time by means of a small hook made for the purpose4 ,work regularly and methodically1 bearing in mind the width and length required4 ,the centre portion must be done very fine1 while the sides may be coarser1 a somewhat larger hook being used4 ,having drawn all the hair through to what is now the top1 take a comb and 8make a parting0 the same as you would upon a lady's head4 ,comb the hair smoothly on each side1 warm the pressing-iron1 and press into shape4 ,cut down1 and the parting is made4 ,it is not reasonable to expect first attempts to afford much satisfaction1 but procure a well-made parting and strive to imitate it by all the means in your power4 ,with a good pattern1 you may observe what can be done1 and if you desire to enter the foremost ranks1 you must endeavour to equal1 if not excel others4 ,skin partings are made the same way1 but1 as ,i have before said1 a thin skin 7sold for the purpose7 is laid upon the silk before working4 ,transparent partings are to be made upon a net1 gauze1 ,yak-hair1 or human-hair foundation4 ,professed patent-parting makers no doubt use a frame1 but a hairdresser would1 in all probability1 make the parting upon a block1 and in its proper place4 ,of course1 it is best to do the parting as a separate portion1 because it can be easier pressed into shape1 and the piece of thin skin 7previously sewn underneath7 for preventing the effects of perspiration1 will escape being punctured by the knotting needle4 ,however1 this is a matter for consideration by the worker1 who must necessarily be somewhat experienced before venturing to knot partings4 ,the kind of net used for partings can be purchased at a hair merchant's2 it is made of cotton1 and should be fine1 smooth1 and as regular as possible consistent with durability4 ,gauze is much finer and closer than net1 being manufactured expressly for the purpose4 ,it is largely used for scalpettes1 gentlemen's scalps1 and fine knotted work generally4 ,tulle,yak1 or ,yak-hair foundations1 are made abroad1 and well suit the purpose for which they are intended4 ,like other work of this description1 the meshes vary in size1 and can be had either open or very close4 ,but the best foundations are made of white human hair1 with a square1 round1 diamond1 or diamond-barred mesh2 the foundations for crowns1 and crowns and partings1 being specially prepared4 ,speaking of the ,yak-hair manufacture1 a recent writer says1 8there is a large quantity of good lace made in the mountain villages of ,saxony and ,bohemia1 and thousands of hands are thus constantly employed4 ,this industry has of late received an addition in the manufacture of a peculiar lace or tulle made of white hair4 ,it was introduced into this district a few years ago by a ,normandy lady1 and has since then extended to such a degree that now in one town 7,rothenkerchen7 alone several hundred persons live by it4 ,the lace is made of white human hair procured from all countries of ,europe1 but principally from ,italy4 ,the price paid for it ranges from one penny to two shillings per gramme1 according to quality1 and the fine lace made out of it is used as a foundation for wigs40 ,to give completeness to my work1 a short account of 8,the ,genealogy of ,implantations10 from the ,moniteur de la ,coiffure1 will1 no doubt1 interest the reader1 for it has a direct bearing on the subject4 ,the journal named had the following under the heading of 8,croisat and the #aja ,coiffeurs40 8,in #ahje1 ,leguet1 hairdresser at ,lyons1 invented the flesh-coloured hair-net4 ,postiches had hitherto been so coarsely made that this improvement in the manufacture of wigs caused quite a sensation4 ,the fame of the inventor soon reached ,paris1 and ,m4 ,tellier1 hairdresser at the ,palais ,royal1 tried to buy ,leguet's patent4 ,in #ahaj1 ,leguet1 who had found that his wigs did not keep the desired firmness 7the hair being badly knotted71 easily agreed to cede his patent to ,tellier4 ,an ,english firm having heard of ,leguet's invention1 procured one of his wigs1 which they imitated and improved4 ,this came to the knowledge of ,tellier1 who went to ,london to study the improvements4 ,meanwhile1 ,carron1 another coiffeur at the ,palais ,royal1 bought from a ,lyons silk weaver the process for the implantation on silk of a different kind1 which1 though less suitable for men's wigs than that of ,leguet's1 gave much neater partings for women's work4 ,tellier1 on his return to ,paris1 intending to considerably extend his novel industry1 associated himself with a stocking-weaver of the ,cevennes4 ,hence arose a law suit between ,carron and ,tellier4 ,but1 contrary to the ordinary rule1 this law suit1 instead of ruining the parties more immediately concerned1 helped to make their fortune4 ,all the papers were full of this suit1 and every baldhead--feminine or masculine--in the kingdom was eager to see and perchance try to rejuvenate itself by the novel inventions4 ,the poor ,lyons weaver1 who had parted with his patent1 being unable to witness others amassing fortunes by its means1 while he remained in misery1 put an end to his days4 ,in the law suit ,m4 ,tellier1 having produced the patent bought of ,leguet1 got the best of it4 8,michalon1 a weaver1 invented the silk parting1 produced with a long piece of silk without head1 which he put on his shuttle4 ,dufaur invented the knotted hair foundation1 knotting the hair by means of a gauze needle4 ,then a workman established himself in the ,faubourg ,st4 ,denis1 who made partings in the way ,carron made them4 ,he was the first to make partings in heart shape4 ,the brothers ,lavacquerie perfected the work of the latter4 ,valon1 one of ,dufaur's workmen1 further perfected the wigs by giving a tighter and better fit4 8,in #ahbb1 ,souchard took out a patent at ,bordeaux for implantations made with an embroidery needle1 and having in the course of time perfected his invention1 he tried to implant hair on a pig's bladder1 which1 being lined with gros de ,naples1 made an excellent bald-wig for theatrical performances1 and produced a very good effect4 8,in #ahbc ,souchard went to ,england1 to study the manner in which the ,english made their silk net wigs4 ,he found the ,english silk net infinitely superior to the ,french1 and be adopted the former for his wigs4 8,this genealogy of ,m4 ,souchard's was written in #ahcf1 and since then implantation has made immense progress40 ,enough1 perhaps1 has been said about the manufacture of partings to acquaint the reader with the manner in which this kind of work is done2 but ,i regard parting-making as a separate branch1 and only those who have constant practice can expect to become proficient4 ,knotting1 however1 lies more within the hairdresser's domain1 and to be a clever knotter the worker must be patient1 careful1 have good eyesight1 and bring to bear sound judgment in the arrangement and execution of his work4 ,in parts not seen1 or rather where knots are concealed through being covered with the hair above1 they may be somewhat coarsely done1 but in conspicuous places1 such as partings or crowns1 the greatest skill must be exhibited1 and ,nature copied as exactly as possible4 ,i have had occasion to refer at different times to knotting1 and it will be well1 perhaps1 to speak of it in general terms before dwelling upon any class of work in particular4 ,in preparing a mount for knotting 7no matter whether it be for a bandeau1 front1 scalp1 scalpette1 or what not7 you have to decide first whether there is to be weft upon the edges of the net1 and likewise upon the galloon4 ,if so1 the net need only be cut off as before mentioned2 but when the mount is to be knotted all over1 the edges of the net must be allowed to extend the eighth of an inch or more beyond the whole of the galloon4 ,here is the reason3 in order to knot over the galloon and close to the edges of it1 that portion of the net which projects must be turned under and in upon the galloon1 to which it should be neatly and securely sewn4 ,indeed1 the net must be sewn to the galloon wherever edges occur1 for it not only holds the net firm and tight1 but when taken off the block there are no ugly openings visible4 ,bear in mind the net is to be put on firm and tight1 the meshes well open1 and no 8bagginess0 in any part4 ,there are different kinds of net1 and you will have to select particular sorts for special work1 about which experience--if no other instructor can be approached--must be your guide4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4 ,knotting needles are1 as the accompanying illustration shows1 small hooks set in wooden handles1 and can be purchased where the trimmings for wig-making1 etc41 are procurable4 ,these needles are fine1 medium1 and coarse1 each one being employed according to the kind of work required to be done4 ,for instance1 in knotting over galloon or ribbon1 where the knots cannot be seen when the mount is examined1 they might be coarsely done1 especially if thickness of hair be required4 ,upon net1 perhaps the medium-sized needle had better be used1 but a needle sufficiently fine to carry only a single hair will have to be employed in partings and crowns if you attempt to 8defy detection40 ,care is necessary in the selection of a needle1 the point of which should turn1 as it were1 into the neck of it1 otherwise1 in drawing back1 the hook is likely to catch the net1 and your handiwork stands a chance then of being spoiled before it is completed4 ,let me here give one word of advice4 ,when you have obtained needles to your liking1 take the greatest care of them1 for if you are proud of good workmanship they might come to be regarded as 8little treasures40 ,the first thing a learner should do is to make a 8single knot10 and ,i would recommend that a mount be put on the block1 say similar to that here shown1 merely for the sake of practising4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,take some straight hair about six inches long2#ah put it between the drawing brushes1 and place a weight thereon as though you were going to do weaving4 ,draw out a weft and double it over at the roots1 leaving them 7the roots7 rather long4 ,you have now made a loop1 which is to be held firmly between the thumb and finger of the left hand4 ,take the knotting needle and hold it with the thumb and finger of the right hand2 insert the hook in one opening of the net and allow it to pass out at the next4 ,by this movement you have taken up a thread 7or line7 upon which you are going to knot the hair4 ,now bring the looped portion of the hair forward and hook it with the needle2 ,fig4 #ca clearly indicates the position4 ,turn the open part of the hook downwards1 but keeping firm hold of the hair 7by a little dexterity you may avoid catching hold of the net7 and draw the needle back again4 ,let the open part of the hook now face the weft1 and by a slight movement of the needle the loop will slip back a little towards the handle while you catch hold of or hook the weft again4 ,this is well shown in the following illustration4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,you have now to give it a turn 7which to a certain extent secures the hair71 draw the hook 7with the hair7 through the loop2 let go the hair from the left hand at the same moment1 and pull rather tight4 ,the knot will then be upon the net1 and if the roots are long fairly secure4 ,of course there is a difficulty in describing these technicalities1 but ,i think with a little practice there need not be any trouble in mastering the details1 at least so far as ,i have gone4 ,with regard to single knotting1 ,i would observe that it is not so secure as double knotting1 but the knots can and should be made much finer4 ,in single knotting1 the roots ought always to be long1 much longer in fact than when the knots are double1 and ought only to be done with a hair or two at a time1 such very fine work being necessary in the middle of partings1 the centres of crowns1 etc4 ,when single knots are coarsely made1 they are liable to be caught by the comb when arranging the hair1 and1 as a consequence1 the weft pulled out2 but if finely worked this is not so liable to occur4 ,single knotting can be done rapidly with short hair1 as in gentlemen's wigs1 but it is somewhat insecure1 and1 therefore1 best avoided4 ,better be 8slow and sure0 at your work1 than spoil it altogether merely to be quick4 ,strive at all times to execute good work1 so that your employer may depend upon what you do1 and all that emanates from the shop will1 in consequence1 bear the stamp of excellence4 ,with regard to double knotting1 ,i wish you to turn to the instructions given on page #aec1 and1 to avoid recapitulation1 begin with the words1 8,take some straight hair10 etc41 and follow on till you come to 8draw the hook 7with the hair7 through the loop10 then stop for a moment and take up here4 ,i repeat--8draw the hook 7with the hair7 through the loop20 let that slide back a little as it did before1 take hold of 7or hook7 the weft again1 giving the needle at the same moment a turn2 draw through the loop once more1 and pull tight down upon the net4 ,in other words1 proceed as though you were going to make a single knot1 but instead of drawing it through at once1 make another knot upon the hair itself1 and then draw through4 ,thus you have made or tied a double knot1 and there need not be any fear of its coming away1 for it is too well secured4 ,these double knots should be made where they are best concealed1 but ought not to be coarsely done1 otherwise they will appear unsightly when the workmanship is examined4 ,practice1 with attention to details1 will soon enable you to become expert4 ,when the job is completed1 7if it be a front1 or a band1 or anything of that description71 have ready a top row of weft1 and sew it on as before instructed1 press1 and finish off in the usual way4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,of ,wigs in ,general1 and some ,historical remarks thereon--,on ,taking an ,order for a ,wig or ,scalp--,means adopted for securing them to the ,head--,directions for ,measurement--,on ,mounting and ,making a ,scalp--8,pen-knife0 and ,metallic ,springs--,a ,scalp described with ,parting and ,crown--,scalps with ,gauze1 ,net1 and ,human ,hair ,foundations4 ,of wigs in general how much could be written6 ,they are almost 8as old as the hills10 and perhaps amongst the ancient ,egyptians might be found the earliest makers of the periwig1 or peruke4 ,indeed1 in the ,british ,museum can be seen a wig from the ,temple of ,isis that was made two or three thousand years ago2 the curl and material of which it is made being well preserved4 ,probably the custom of shaving the heads of the people 7for all had to submit to it71 led to the introduction of wigs1 and1 as ,wilkinson says1 8it may appear singular that so warm a covering to the head should have been adopted in the climate of ,egypt2 but we must remember the reticulated nature of the ground-work1 on which the hair was fastened1 allowed the heat of the head to escape1 while the hair effectually protected it from the sun3 it is evident that no better covering could have been devised1 and that it far surpassed1 in comfort and coolness1 the modern turban40 ,according to ,stow1 the periwig was first brought into ,england about the time of the massacre of ,st4 ,bartholomew 7#aegb71 but the peruke is mentioned in a wardrobe account in the time of ,edward ,,vi4 ,about #aeie1 wigs 8had become so much the fashion that it was dangerous for children to wander out of sight of their parents or attendants1 as it was a common practice to entice them into some private place and deprive them of their hair for the manufacture of such articles40--,planche4 ,during the reign of ,charles ,,ii4 the large wigs 7such as are shown in ,kneller's portrait of the ,duke of ,marlborough7 were introduced1 and continued to increase in size till the middle of last century4 ,concerning prices1 the following is interesting3--8,perukes10 says ,malcolm1 8were an highly important article in #agcd4 ,those of right gray human hair were four guineas each2 light grizzle ties1 three guineas2 and other colours in proportion1 to twenty-five shillings4 ,right gray human hair perukes1 from two guineas to fifteen shillings each1 which was the price for dark ones2 and right gray bob perukes1 two guineas and a-half to fifteen shillings1 the price of dark bobs4 ,those mixed with horsehair were much lower4 ,it will be observed1 from the gradations in price1 that real gray hair was most in fashion1 and dark of no estimation40 ,the names of wigs1 as may be judged from the foregoing1 possess deep interest for the trade1 and it is therefore worth while to allude to them4 ,in the reign of ,queen ,anne1 in addition to very long and formally curled perukes1 are mentioned 8black riding wigs10 8bag wigs10 and 8nightcap wigs40 ,the famous battle of ,ramilies1 in the same reign introduced the 8,ramilie wig10 with a long gradually diminishing plaited tail1 called the 8,ramilie tail10 which was tied with a great bow at the top and a smaller one at the bottom4 ,in the reign of ,george ,,ii41 the 8tye-wig0 and the 8pigtail-wig0 have to be added to the catalogue1 and at the same time the revival of the 8bob-wig10 first heard of in #afhd1 or one that is called after it1 is also spoken of4 ,the 8bob-wig0 is thus described3--8,i cut off my hair and procured a brown bob periwig of ,wilding of the same colour1 with a single row of curls just round the bottom1 which ,i wore very nicely combed and without powder40 ,indeed1 8the nomenclature of wigs is very ample10 says an authority on the subject1 8a complete system of classification might be adopted1 and genus and species discriminated with the greatest nicety3 there were ,wigs ,military1 ,legal1 ,ecclesiastical1 and ,infantile10 room being found only for a few varieties1 viz43-- ,perruque bonnet4 ,perruque trois marteaux4 ,perruque nuds4 ,perruque ronde4 ,perruque pointue4 ,perruque naissante4 ,perruque deux queues4 ,perruque tonsure4 ,perruque la brigadire4 ,perruque de l',abb4 ,perruque boudin4 ,perruque papillons4 ,perruque deux marteaux4 ,perruque bourse4 ,wigs were first worn by barristers about #afgj1 to which opposition was made by the judges1 and some of the leaders were not allowed to plead in their new head-gear4 ,in the time of ,james ,,ii4 wigs increased in size1 becoming still larger in the following reign 7,william ,,iii471 when wigs were adopted by all classes1 but among those of humble station they were moderate in size and price4 ,gentlemen's wigs1 however1 were large and full1 requiring much hair in their manufacture4 ,it is recorded that in #agjj a sum of #fj was given for a country girl's hair1 and that the grey hair of an old woman deceased sold for nearly as much--the ordinary price of a first-class wig being at that time forty pounds4 ,full-bottomed wigs were invented1 it is said1 by ,duviller1 for the purpose of hiding some natural defect in the shoulders of the ,dauphin4 ,children wore wigs1 or the natural hair was curled to look like them4 ,archbishop ,tillotson was the first of our prelates who wore a wig4 ,steele's wig cost as much as forty guineas4 ,dean ,swift had a fine wig for state occasions1 and 8,colley ,cibber's wig1 in which he played a favourite character1 was of such noble proportions that it was brought upon the stage in a sedan by two chairmen40 ,the tie-wig 7the long-curled wig abridged7 was not considered court dress4 8,how to wear a wig10 says the author of 8,trichocosmos10 8was part of the education of a man of the world1 not to be learned from books4 ,those who know what witchcraft there is in handling a fan1 what dexterity in the #8nice conduct of a clouded cane1' will imagine the wits and gentlemen of old did not suffer the wig to overshadow their temples with perpetual gloom1 like the wreath of smoke which overhangs our ,modern ,babylon4 ,and many a country squire must have tried in vain to catch the right toss of the head2 to sport a playful humour in those crisp curls2 or to acquire the lofty carriage of the foretop1 or the significant trifling with some obtrusive lock2 and felt as awkward in his new wig as a tailor on horseback1 or a fat alderman with a dress sword dangling between his legs40 ,natural coloured wigs were worn till about #agad1 when it became fashionable to adopt bleached hair1 which soon faded1 then wigs were powdered4 ,it is said that wigs of peculiar excellence cost as much as #adj each1 and it is on record that 8a petition from the master peruke-makers of ,london and ,westminster1 presented to the king 7,george ,,iii47 in #agfc1 points out the great decline of their use to have taken place at that time40 ,in this memorial they complain of the public wearing their own hair1 and say1 8,that this mode1 pernicious enough in itself to their trade1 is rendered excessively more so1 by swarms of ,french hairdressers already established in those cities1 and daily increasing40 ,theatrical wigs will supply many capital illustrations of those that were worn by notable personages in former years1 and a ramble through the ,national ,gallery1 ,hampton ,court ,palace1 and other public as well as private picture galleries will be found highly instructive to wig-makers of the present day4 ,the chief art now consists in making wigs so closely to imitate ,nature as to defy detection1 and those who succeed in doing so may well be classed among the most talented men in the profession4 ,wigs and scalps will always be worn1 and probably there is a good trade to be done in such manufactures now1 but great attention to every detail is necessary so as to withstand the keen glance of scrutiny4 ,i will now apply myself to the task before me1 but consider that a few general observations are necessary and important before entering into the technicalities of the art4 ,when taking an order for a lady's or gentleman's wig1 observe the shape of the head1 cast of countenance1 and age of the person who intends wearing it4 ,note whether the head is long1 broad1 or high1 as a correct shape ought to be maintained by the wig-maker1 who1 in this and other respects1 should be an artist4 ,observe also whether the face is long1 round1 or oval1 because the arrangement of the hair on the forehead and sides of the head has much to do in presenting a good appearance4 ,if this passes observation and comment1 the result may be considered satisfactory2 but should there be 8a something0 objectionable which causes remark1 find out what it is1 or where the fault lies1 and either remove or alter it if possible4 ,again1 notice the countenance2 do not put in contrast to an aged face hair that is only suitable to youth4 ,let the hair be consistent both in colour and quantity with the age of the wearer1 and1 above all1 endeavour to avoid anything extravagant or out of place4 ,a gentleman's wig must be cut and trimmed after it is made1 to adapt it to the style and taste of the wearer2 it ought to fit easily in every part2 and where springs are1 no undue pressure should be allowed to exist4 ,while the general appearance has to be well considered1 the comfort of the wearer must always be kept in view4 ,the reader is1 doubtless1 fully aware that baldness is not confined to age1 for some men lose their hair early in life4 ,you may1 without much trouble1 find a bald-headed man at thirty1 and it is perhaps as easy to discover a man at sixty with a fairly good head of hair4 ,all classes are likely to be more or less troubled with baldness1 for it makes its mark in a variety of ways4 ,sometimes the hair recedes from the brow1 giving the appearance of a very high forehead1 at other times it only attacks the crown4 ,then1 again1 the whole of the top part of the head is left bare1 which not unfrequently extends to the occiput behind4 ,a partial baldness requires merely a scalp which may1 according to the circumstances of the case1 be either large or small1 but when the baldness is extensive1 a wig will be found the most convenient and suitable head-covering4 ,scalps are consequently made in a variety of shapes and sizes2 the mountings are equally variable1 and the method adopted for holding them firmly in position admits of great ingenuity4 ,some scalps are mounted with galloon1 net1 and springs2 others have a metallic-spring attachment1 which sensibly1 though not uncomfortably1 grips the head1 while another mode of fastening is by means of 8penknife springs0 or clasps4#ai 7,these open as the name indicates1 and being closed1 a small portion of the growing hair is shut in or clasped at the same time47 ,some scalps1 when made for the top of the head and crown have1 in addition1 a strip of galloon1 which1 being covered with hair1 easily adapts itself to the lower part of the back of the head4 ,by an arrangement of this character a scalp cannot possibly go forward on to the forehead of the wearer4 ,scalps when made very light and delicate1 and intended for a small-sized patch upon the upper portion of the head1 and sometimes the crown1 are fixed only with gum1 a gummy substance sold for the purpose1 or diachylon4 ,this gossamer-like scalp admits of very superior work 7knotted71 while the mounting1 if required1 should be of the lightest possible description4 ,where strength and durability are concerned1 probably nothing can be better than a well-sewn1 woven scalp or wig2 but when art steps in to closely imitate nature1 and attempts to defy the keen glance of scrutiny1 then both single and double knotting are brought into requisition4 ,this presents a more natural appearance1 of course1 and though the cost is increased1 the work is not so lasting4 ,in wig and scalp making there is plenty of scope for ability1 ingenuity1 and taste1 for to insure success very much is left to the judgment of the maker1 and to the carefulness and discretion of the wearer1 so as to prevent his 8secret0 being discovered4 ,i will give some working directions1 with suitable illustrations1 as ,i proceed1 but for the present ,i am chiefly concerned in impressing certain leading points or features upon the mind of the learner1 as success will greatly depend upon strict attention to minute details4 ,of course1 careful measurement is all important1 for no matter how well the work may be done1 if it proves to be a misfit1 disappointment and annoyance1 to say the least1 will surely be felt by the parties concerned4 ,besides1 a mistake of this kind is likely to prejudice the mind of the customer1 and another article 7however well-made7 might not1 perhaps1 be received with favour2 therefore1 be exact4 ,i wish now to direct attention to the illustration which appears on the next page and to the following directions for measurement4 ,no4 #a4--,with a tape measure ascertain the circumference of the head4 ,no4 #b4--,measure from the centre of the forehead 7where the hair should be7 to the nape of the neck4 ,no4 #c4--;,ascertain the distance from ear to ear across the forehead 7see the lower dotted line74 ,no4 #d4--,measure from ear to ear over the top 7or highest7 part of the head4 ,no4 #e4--,note how many inches it is from temple to temple1 round the back of the head4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,these directions are simple enough and only require careful attention2 be very exact in writing down the figures1 and observe the formation of the head4 ,of course1 all these measurements are not wanted for a scalp 7some scalps at all events71 but the different kinds of work are so intimately associated that it is difficult to make any very marked distinction here upon the subject4 ,besides using a tape measure1 it will be as well to cut out a paper pattern for a scalp4 ,an expert might say there is no necessity for doing both1 but ,i am not addressing myself to the advanced men in the trade1 who do not stand in need of assistance from me4 ,i direct my remarks more particularly to apprentices1 improvers1 and to beginners in general4 ,to them ,i say--you cannot be too particular1 therefore do not spare yourself a little extra trouble1 as you may probably reap advantage from it before the job is finished4 ,a paper pattern for a scalp comes in very useful at times1 more especially when there are some intricacies to be noted4 ,it need not be exactly a pattern1 but still it should unmistakably show the outline of the patch which is to be covered4 ,having taken the dimensions1 then1 the next thing is to cut off a piece of hair for the colour4 ,your customer should be advised to wear his hair a convenient length for the purpose in view1 7say7 from two and a-half to three and a-half inches long4 ,fashion1 of course1 has much to do with the length of men's hair1 but you cannot make a wig or scalp with hair so preposterously short as is worn by many at the present time--that is out of the question4 ,the real hair as well as the 8false0 should be sufficiently long to allow of one combining with the other4 ,there ought not to be any division1 and the length of the hair must1 as a consequence1 be taken into consideration4 ,whether a crown is to be put in1 or a crown and parting1 should next engage attention2 also1 whether the parting is to be in the centre1 on the right1 or left side2 if it is to be skin or transparent2 and what kind of foundation4 ,these preliminaries being arranged1 ,i will proceed with the making of a scalp4 ,the scalp you are to make is without a patent parting1 but with a crown either of silk or skin4 ,if any parting is to be made on this scalp1 it should not be clearly defined1 but whether it be formed with weft or 8knotted10 the hair ought to be set closer than it is elsewhere4 ,this1 however1 will be alluded to later on4 ,should a rather narrow scalp be all that is required1 and the wearer's hair thick enough1 a parting could well be made upon the head1 some of the natural hair being trained to comb over and allowed to mingle with the hair of the scalp4 ,nothing could be better than an arrangement of this kind1 where it is possible to adopt it4 ,attention must also be paid to the 8set0 of the hair upon the brow2 if allowed to remain in slight disorder perhaps that would be the better way to wear it4 ,at all events1 a 8wiggy0 and cloudy aspect should be avoided4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,the mount represented above is1 as ,i before stated1 for a scalp with a crown1 but without a patent parting4 ,in reference to mounting1 detailed instructions have frequently been given1 which ,i need not here repeat4 ,take a clean1 smooth1 mounting block1 and with a blacklead pencil carefully mark the size and form of the work taken in hand4 ,having done this1 commence at the back by tacking on the galloon 7which should be a little wider than that ordinarily used for fronts1 bands1 c471 and with it follow the line marked until the ends meet4 ,arrange this so as to have half an inch or more to spare at both of the ends4 ,of course1 in following the pencil marks with the galloon1 you have found it necessary to use points so as to keep the shape1 drawing the galloon at the same time moderately tight4 ,you are now to hold the free ends between the thumb and finger of the left hand close down upon the block1 while you stitch them through and through1 so that when done they may be close and firm4 ,open the ends1 gently hammer the sewn part1 and take a few stitches to keep the ends in place4 ,you are now to baste where it has just been sewn1 observing to maintain an even roundness so as to fit nicely at the back of the head4 ,come now to the front and form the peak upon the forehead1 but it should be more rounded and less pointed than is indicated in the engraving4#bj ,the sides are to be basted out as shown1 and to impart a graceful curve1 points are to be driven into the centre of the block and the galloon drawn inward as required4 ,i will now assume that the outline of the scalp is formed2 the galloon moderately tight and firmly held in place--and that it is ready for other matters to be proceeded with4 ,sew a piece of galloon from temple to temple2 affix another piece at the sides 7across the top7 and then connect the front and back together4 ,a glance at the illustration shows clearly what is to be done4#ba ,springs are now to be attached1 and for this purpose take a piece of watch-spring sufficiently long to reach from the forehead nearly to the crown1 or quite to the edge of the crown if considered necessary4 ,two other springs are to be prepared extending from the side angles to join the centre one4 ,at this point they are not to overlap1 but must fit evenly and flat4 ,here1 again1 a reference to the engraving will indicate my meaning4 ,it may be necessary to put two springs at the back also1 especially if the scalp be rather large1 otherwise1 the patent crown might be found sufficient4 ,the springs are to be somewhat flattened1 so as to fit the mount exactly1 for unless this be attended to1 the scalp will not lie upon the head as it should do4 ,they must now be filed or ground off at the ends1 and tipped with kid1 thin leather1 or parchment1 the whole neatly covered with galloon1 and then sewn in their proper places4 ,the next thing is to put on some silk net1 carefully sewing it all round the inner margin of the scalp4 ,cut off1 leaving an edge which must not extend beyond the outer line of the galloon4 ,fix this in place by means of the 8herring-bone0 stitch1 and sew the net to all the other edges of the galloon and springs4 ,i may observe that it is intended to cover this mount with weft1 but were it to be 8knotted10 the edges of the net should be left rather long1 then turned in1 and firmly sewn to the outer line as previously instructed4 8,pen-knife0 springs should now be attached4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,they are1 as before stated1 made to open1 and upon being closed1 a small portion of the natural hair is shut in with what might be termed the blade4 ,here is the representation of a 8penknife0 spring 7open71 and it is drawn the exact size4 ,the scalp now in course of manufacture would require three or four of these fastenings1 namely1 one on each side towards the front1 and one or two at the back in convenient situations4 ,observe that these springs are intended to lie as flat as possible1 being made with a slight concavity1 which should go next the head4 ,they must1 consequently1 be arranged as 8rights0 and 8lefts40 ,take a piece of galloon the width of the spring 7that which is used for the mount will probably answer the purpose71 turn in the ends1 and sew over and over right round1 except where the blade shuts in4 ,in order that you may properly secure the covering1 notice three small holes in the spring1 through which stitches should be made4 ,these details having been attended to1 the springs are to be attached to the mount1 and1 ,i need scarcely say1 they ought to be secure4 ,the hair is now to be put on1 and the weft ,i presume is ready4 ,correct judgment1 together with the requirements of the work1 should1 to a certain extent at least1 guide you4 ,as the rows of weft are arranged1 so the hair will 8set10 and this should always be borne in mind4 ,a properly made and well-dressed gentleman's wig is a 8study10 from which much is to be learnt1 and young men in the trade should never allow such ingenious productions to pass unnoticed4 ,of the 8cutting and dressing a gentleman's wig0 ,i shall speak presently1 and merely allude to it here for the purpose of showing the importance which attaches to a proper arrangement of hair in the first instance1 whether it be woven or 8knotted40 ,remember1 as a rule1 that in gentlemen's wig-making the hair should always be dressed to the face1 but this effect cannot be produced without careful attention to the rows of weft1 or 8knots40 ,however1 in this instance suppose you adopt the following plan4 ,commence sewing on the weft at the back1 at the lower edge of the galloon1 and continue it all round2 go round again1 sewing the weft moderately close to the first row4 ,it is important that these should be well and neatly put on4 ,continue sewing till you come to one of the angular places which is to be filled up1 bearing in mind the preceding observations4 ,then pass on 7without cutting the weft7 to another and another1 till all the corners are disposed of4 ,if this be judiciously executed1 you will then have a 8clear field0 to work upon1 and may go on sewing the weft round and round until you approach the crown1 when the rows must be a little closer together4 ,while there is yet plenty of room1 take the crown 7silk or skin ,i am supposing it to be71 sew the edges1 as is done when putting in a patent parting1 and fix neatly1 yet firmly1 in its proper position4 ,then go on with the weft1 and finish off upon the crown1 close to the hair4 ,having done with the needle1 the work is now to be pressed 7and some of these observations apply to wig-making in general71 about which you must needs be careful4 ,the hair employed in this description of manufacture 7short crop hair7 is specially curled for the purpose1 and in making gentlemen's wigs1 hair of two1 three1 and sometimes four different lengths is used1 so as to avoid cutting1 if possible4 ,it stands to reason that the hair put at the top of a wig or scalp should be longer than that in the neck1 while at the sides the hair required is probably of a length something between the two4 ,therefore1 when purchasing the hair1 calculate the length before-hand1 or1 should it be in stock1 cut it off at the roots before weaving or 8knotting10 if it is found necessary to do so4 ,in pressing and dressing this scalp1 ,i will assume that merely the points of the lower hair are to be removed1 therefore push back with a comb the same as though you were about cutting a lady's hair1 and remove the ends with a sharp razor4 ,even this must be done in a particular manner1 and is to be produced by a kind of sliding motion4 ,let me tell you the object which is to be attained1 that you may the more readily understand what and how to do it4 ,the natural ends of hair are finer and more pointed than they would be if cut4 ,they curl and combine more readily if left in their normal condition1 with which ordinary cutting is likely to interfere3 therefore the employment of a razor is to make the points resemble the original as near as possible4 ,pressing1 you can now perceive1 is equally important1 and should be done first4 ,you must press the work1 but not the hair--that is1 the curl2 for if you do that1 the job will be spoilt before it leaves your hands1 that's all6 ,therefore1 press carefully2 incline each section of the hair as it leaves your fingers to take up its proper position2 do not injure the curl in the least1 and endeavour to impart to it a natural and becoming appearance4 ,another way of fixing the scalp is by means of a metallic spring 7see ,fig4 #cf71 and it can easily be adapted to the purpose4 ,the galloon which passes across the top could either be dispensed with1 or arranged so that the spring1 when covered1 passes along unseen4 ,the front of it could easily be made to come forward1 while the corner springs 7either front or back7 must be reduced1 or otherwise designed so as to keep the scalp well in shape4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,these springs1 ,i may observe1 are made to go across the top of the head1 while others are constructed to go at the back1 just below the bind of the hat4 ,it is of the former description that ,i now speak4 ,for making either a scalp or wig with a metallic spring it is best to keep some of these springs in stock1 and when taking an order try them on1 so as to get one that will be easy and comfortable4 ,heads vary in size1 so do the springs2 therefore1 this mode of fitting a spring is essential4 ,that part which extends from front to back is movable1 and can be readily adjusted1 while the behind part may be broken off at pleasure1 the end1 of course1 being filed and covered in the usual way4 ,with these preliminaries arranged1 take a long piece of galloon1 fasten on to a given point 7say the front71 and wrap round to the end1 firm1 smooth1 and regular1 holding the spring at the same time in the left hand2 the upper edge of the galloon which is on the spring being covered with the lower edge of that which is free4 ,continue this from one end to the other and sew firmly4 ,now do the side-spring in the same way2 cover neatly the centre at the top of the head1 and sew wherever necessary4 ,of course1 the spring will by this arrangement project at the sides1 and extend down towards the ears4 ,all this part1 then1 must be covered with weft1 the hair well 8set10 pressed forward1 and made to combine with the natural side hair of the wearer4 ,the mounting already shown is capable of numerous modifications1 but the general directions remain the same4 ,the form may be enlarged or diminished1 it can be oval-shaped or round 7or three-cornered if needs be71 nevertheless1 all the details must be carefully attended to if good workmanship be desired4 ,baldness is not particular to age1 neither does it assume any definite form2 it varies upon different individuals4 ,as a consequence the size and shape of scalps vary considerably1 and the class of work is regulated not unfrequently by the purse4 ,these deviations from any fixed rule1 therefore1 afford ample scope for the display of ingenuity and taste on the part of the boardsman2 and to be a good wig-maker is a strong recommendation to first-class situations4 ,clever workmen1 as ,i have stated before1 do not stand in need of instruction1 and were ,i to offer it some offence might reasonably be taken2 but with apprentices and improvers1 as well as those in business whose experience in the wig-maker's art is limited1 the case is altered1 and if ,i can be the means of helping them my task will not have been undertaken in vain4 ,to manufacture a scalp of a like description but with a silk or skin parting and crown inserted1 proceed as follows3--,mark the outline of the mount upon a clean block and put on the galloon as before4 ,note the width and length of the parting1 which should always be placed on the left side except when ordered otherwise1 and arrange so that the centre of the crown will fall into its proper place4 ,having basted the galloon which marks the shape or outline of the scalp1 you can then attach the piece which extends from front to back1 and a cross piece right in front1 if necessary 7see illustration74#bb ,notice the width of the parting1 and in regard to this portion of the work1 deal with the mount as instructed in mounting a front1 paying great attention to the edge where it joins the forehead4 ,about this you cannot be too particular4 ,now take the galloon and drive a point in the end of it1 near to one of the basting-stitches1 and conduct it upwards towards the crown2 form the outline of the crown with it1 and return to the fellow basting-stitch where it is to be cut off4 ,i will now assume that you have the exact form of the parting and crown1 the galloon being held in position by means of points driven into it at intervals4 ,sew the ends in their places1 and baste the galloon1 making a neat circle at the crown4 ,here the galloon will become puckered2 the puckers are to be pinched together1 sewn through and through1 and made to lie as flat as possible4 ,having done all this1 what1 let me ask 7in order that ,i may be clearly understood71 is the object in view8 ,it is to impart neatness to the work1 and to conceal the margins of the parting and crown2 it renders the scalp more durable1 and when off the block the edges of the parting1 c41 are neatly concealed4 ,the net and springs are to be put on1 then the hair1 and all finished off in a proper manner4 ,scalps of this description can be held in their places by means of a cement made and sold for the purpose 7to which ,i shall presently allude71 but ,i cannot help thinking that1 after all1 springs are preferable4 ,a better class of work is done upon gauze1 and the best of all is made upon human hair foundations4 ,other materials for the purpose1 of an inferior description1 are used1 to which ,i need not here refer1 as the two kinds named are sufficient for my purpose4 ,the gauze is very fine in texture1 and can be mounted with galloon or not1 just as it may be considered necessary4 ,of course1 galloon affords additional strength to the article1 and if lightness be not the chief requisition1 ,i should say that gauze scalps were more durable when mounted4 ,here is an outline of one3-- ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,it will be seen that there is galloon all round1 and to the parting and crown also4 ,a mount of this character can be designed by omitting the latter altogether2 it can be made with a crown only1 or1 with a parting in addition1 as shown in the diagram1#bc but in that case1 the piece of galloon which now marks a separation between the crown and parting should be omitted4 ,this1 of course1 could easily be managed by putting on the galloon in the way just previously mentioned4 ,a scalp of this kind can be mounted with white1 drab1 or other coloured galloon2 it might be knotted either on gauze or net1 with a human hair foundation parting and crown inserted4 ,indeed1 the variations made in this description of manufacture are of a multifarious character1 as may readily be perceived4 ,the mode of attaching these scalps to the head of the wearer is by means of diachylon1 or1 what is better1 the ,pomade ,toulouse1 an adhesive substance easily softened by heat1 or else 8wafers10 which are made sticky by a little moisture1 and used as desired by the wearer4 ,scalps with entire ,human ,hair ,foundations cannot be excelled for lightness and a natural appearance4 ,they are made of any size and pattern1 with perfectly secured edges1 so that no galloon or springs are necessary4 ,they only require to be well and properly attached to the block by means of basting-stitches1 and carefully--,i might say artistically--knotted all over1 the crown1 or crown and parting1 being done as the work progresses4 ,some exquisite pieces of workmanship are executed in this line by expert hands1 their productions being well qualified to receive the name of 8zephyr0 which has been given to them by certain manufacturers4 ,the mode of attachment is the same as that mentioned above1 by means of cement or gum4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,of ,gentlemen's ,wigs1 and a few additional observations thereon--,to make a strong and durable ,wig with woven ,hair throughout--,mounting a ,wig--,the ,metallic ,spring again--,various kinds of ,net used--,caution against using too much ,hair--,sewing on the ,weft--,the ,crown made with ,weft--,the ,parting formed with ,weft--,pressing the ,work--,of ,elastic ,springs--,the ,wig completed4 ,it is now my intention to treat of ,gentlemen's ,wigs1 and ,i think that1 so far as general remarks are concerned1 there is but little to add to my former observations on the subject4 ,the approved method to be adopted for measuring the head1 together with other necessary instructions1 have been already given1 to which the reader is referred4 ,like every thing else1 gentlemen's wigs admit of considerable variation1 and can be made to suit the pockets of all classes4 ,some customers are strictly economical2 they do not so much care for appearances1 their desire being to have a wig that shall be strong1 durable1 and low in price4 ,such men will wear a wig until it 8goes foxy0 7to use a trade phrase which fully explains my meaning74 ,some people1 as they advance in years1 have an aversion to putting on new things2 preferring that to which they have become accustomed before a fresh1 and1 it may be1 more elaborate article4 ,this applies to clothing1 boots and shoes1 hats1 c41 and why not to wigs8 ,therefore1 in executing an order for a person who habitually wears one1 notice every detail associated with that which he is wearing1 and deviate as little as possible therefrom4 ,younger men1 who lose their hair early in life1 require to be much more particular2 they wish to defy the scrutinizing glances of friends and acquaintances1 and1 as a consequence1 seek to obtain that which is lighter1 and of a more natural appearance4 ,price1 it may be1 is of the last consideration1 for nothing1 perhaps1 would cause them greater uneasiness than to be told by some indiscreet associate1 8,why1 ,jack1 you've got a wig on40 ,men sometimes show their ignorance by making such foolish remarks2 and ,i allude to it here to impress upon the reader how important it is to acquire taste1 good judgment1 and proficiency in business4 ,i said just now that 8gentlemen's wigs admit of considerable variation10 and it is my intention to describe the manufacture of two kinds1 namely1 those which are intended to be worn for an indefinite period1 and others that have to be renewed more frequently4 ,that is to say1 the buyer of a wig at thirty-five shillings would desire it to last for a longer time than he who purchases a more artistically made article at treble the price1 and renews it every year4 ,i propose making a wig 7in the first instance7 of a strong and durable character1 and with woven hair throughout4 ,this description1 either with or without patent crowns1 or patent partings and crowns 7of which more hereafter71 ,i prefer making with weft1 because ,i think them less likely to shrink than if they were knotted4 ,knotted work for lightness1 weft for durability2 at least1 this is my opinion of the matter4 ,it will be for the workman to decide which he considers preferable1 and1 as ,i shall give instructions how to proceed in either case1 an opportunity will thus be afforded him to judge of the correctness of my assertion4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,take a clean mounting-block1 and having your measurements properly written out according to previous instructions1 pencil the outline of the mount thereon4 ,be very particular in marking details1 because the galloon should follow every line4 ,having done this accurately1 commence at the back of the block 7in the neck7 by driving a point or two through the galloon on the left side of the central line4 ,keep the galloon fairly tight with the left hand1 following the pencilled markings1 and hammer in points wherever it is necessary to do so4 ,i will now assume that you have carefully made the proper curves at the ear and temple1 and that you have reached the cut line on the block which is in the centre of the forehead4 ,you have now to continue the galloon along the pencil markings on the opposite side of the block until the place from which you started is reached3 drive in another point or two and cut off the galloon1 leaving at least half an inch to spare upon the block4 ,in foregoing instructions these 8free ends0 have also been alluded to2 you are to pinch them well together1 and1 with a needle and silk1 sew them through and through4 ,the mount is now ready for 8basting10 but where you should begin is optional1 and depends in a great measure on the style of mount4 ,in this instance1 ,i should begin in front2 next the temples2 then1 round about the ears4 ,the engravings which accompany these descriptions very clearly indicate details4#bd ,having completed this part of the work1 you will find that in various places the galloon is puckered2 these you must pinch together1 sew through and through1 lay them down quite flat1 and a stitch or two will hold them in their places4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,the first important step in making a wig is now accomplished4 ,to be quite sure1 go over your measurements again 7,i presume that you have done so before71 and satisfy yourself of their exactness4 ,now1 take the galloon and put a portion of it across the top from front to back2 drive points through as before2 cut off and sew neatly4 ,a similar piece is to extend from ear to ear across the crown1 which must be treated in a similar way4 ,having done this1 take the galloon again1 and1 passing it under these cross-pieces1 bring the ends to the front1 pull it moderately tight1 and sew down upon the galloon4 ,this piece forms1 as it were1 a fillet round the head4 ,make a circle with the galloon1 about two and a-half inches from the outer edges1 to form the crown2 in this instance ,i intend it to be made of weft1 which will presently demand no little cleverness on the part of the wig-maker4 ,this circle will have many puckers1 and they are to be sewn down as before4 ,i have already alluded to metallic springs1 and given an illustration of one4#be ,the instructions then presented to the reader1 must be borne in mind when an order is given for a wig1 and also while the mount is progressing4 ,indeed1 the spring ought to be placed in its appointed position when the mount is designed upon the block1 and it should not reach 7in any instance7 to the lower edges of the galloon4 ,the spring is to be covered as before1 put on the block1 and sewn in its place4 ,with regard to other springs1 which are used to keep the wig in shape1 and thereby add to the comfort of the wearer1 the engravings1 together with previous instructions1 will no doubt be found sufficient4 ,with the foregoing particulars1 and the illustrations which accompany them1 the learner can proceed to mount and make a wig4 ,there is1 in this class of work1 much scope for ingenuity and thoughtfulness1 and a well-made wig is not only creditable to the maker1 but displays an amount of skilfulness which1 to many1 is surprising4 ,there are various descriptions of net used in wig-making to meet all requirements4 ,for patterns and prices ,i cannot do better than refer the reader to either of ,messrs4 ,r4 ,hovenden ,sons' warehouses4 ,to suit my own purposes1 ,i find it sufficient to divide the net into two classes1 viz41 silk and cotton1 of which1 ,i need scarcely add1 the latter is the cheapest2 but for strength and durability1 as well as neatness1 the former is much to be preferred4 ,the form and size of the mesh is not of any particular moment if woven hair has to be used2 but when the hair is knotted the case is different1 and1 as the learner becomes proficient in his business1 he will understand why some particularity in the choice of net should be exhibited by the worker1 more especially when he takes delight in the excellence of his productions4 ,i have said before that in manufacturing wigs1 the 8set0 of the hair is all-important1 and in knotting1 the formation of the mesh is1 doubtless1 considered to have a great deal to do with it4 ,the mount being divided into sections by means of the galloon which passes from front to back1 side to side1 etc41 enables the maker to sew on the net in parts1 in preference to one entire whole4 ,it is better to do this portion of the work in sections1 not only because it is economical1 but it is much more convenient4 ,commence 7say7 at the neck1 by sewing the net to the innermost edge of the galloon1 and you may arrange to cover one or both of the back divisions4 ,having sewn it along the edge securely1 draw the net fairly tight1 and stitch it to the nearest edge of the galloon which divides the front from the back4 ,cut off1 but leave a sufficient margin to 8herring-bone0 afterwards4 ,the front part of the wig may be covered in a similar manner4 ,all edges of the galloon must be sewn to the net4 ,i will now assume that the mount is covered except the points near the ears1 the front peak1 and1 it may be1 the nape of the neck4 ,the angular1 or odd pieces of net1 will do exceedingly well for these4 ,all being sewn to every available spot1 the net tight and firm 7not 8baggy0--by all means guard against that71 and free edges neatly 8herring-boned0 to the galloon1 the mount is complete4 ,of course1 the hair selected for the top of the head1 about the front and crown should be longer than it is at the sides and in the neck1 therefore1 two or three lengths of hair must be employed4 ,a calculation ought to be made first1 and the appearance1 age of wearer1 and so forth taken into consideration4 ,as a rule1 the makers of wigs put too much hair in their manufactures4 ,the lighter they are1 the better4 ,still1 sufficient hair must be used to cover them1 and much depends upon the fineness of the weft4 ,weaving some thirty yards of weft is1 no doubt1 considered a task by many1 but unless it is fine throughout1 more hair than necessary is likely to be consumed4 ,an ordinary weaver should do at least a yard of wig-weft an hour1 but professed weavers would do much more than that4 ,the lengths of hair1 then1 having been decided upon1 and their apportionment made1 the weft should be completed without delay1 before this monotonous part of the job becomes tedious4 ,i said just now that too much hair is generally used1 for ,i have known instances where three ounces or more of crop have been employed1 in place of half1 or two-thirds of that quantity1 which would have suited the job much better4 ,here1 then1 is another cause of the 8wiggy0 appearance of which some people complain4 ,besides a general improvement in the article which adds considerably to the ease and comfort of the wearer1 something is saved in the cost of material1 which must not be lost sight of4 ,true1 the weight of hair depends in a great measure upon its length1 but for ordinary purposes it should not be allowed to exceed two ounces1 if possible4 ,the weft being completed1 begin sewing on behind the ears and in the neck2 for this use the shortest hair4 ,the first row1 or1 ,i might say1 rows1 of weft should1 as a matter of course1 be very carefully put on2 indeed1 all the margins or edges ought to receive the greatest attention1 for if the hair be raised up and the work critically examined1 a show of galloon would stamp it as bad at the very outset4 ,two1 if not three rows of weft can be first sewn on before filling in the angles1 and when that is attempted1 both sides must be done uniformly4 ,the angles 7or points7 behind the ears having been thus treated1 the weft can be continued in lines until the neck part is all filled in4 ,the sides should now be attended to1 and1 if the hair be sufficiently long1 the front peak also4 ,commence sewing on the weft close to that which is already on the block1 and this will be somewhere behind the ear4 ,stitch close to the edge of the galloon1 and1 as before1 make two or three rows2 then fill in the two sides4 ,bear in mind what ,i have previously said1 which in this connection is worth repeating4 ,it is this--remember1 as a rule1 that in gentlemen's wig-making1 the hair should always be dressed to the face1 but this effect cannot be produced without careful attention to the rows of weft1 or 8knots40 ,therefore1 arrange the weft in such a way as to ensure this desirable result1 and the pressing iron will do the rest4 ,i now assume that all the angular places have been filled up1 and that hair covers the wig up to the galloon which goes around the head like a band or fillet4 ,you now require to use the second length of hair1 and1 probably it will do for both back and front2 if so1 go on sewing several rows of weft round and round at equal distances from each other4 ,not too close1 otherwise the wig is likely to be heavy1 and not very wide apart1 or else the work will be flimsy and unsubstantial4 ,should you decide upon using longer hair for the top and sides than you do at the back1 then the work must be done accordingly1 by sewing half-way--backwards and forwards4 ,the other half will have to be filled up in like manner2 but1 when the wig is taken off the block1 the rows should appear as though they were sewn on in the way just before mentioned4 ,i will now imagine that you are approaching the part marked out for the crown1 and if you make any further difference in the lengths of hair to be employed1 here you may begin with the longest1 and continue up to the circle reserved for the crown4 ,the hair used in this place may be of one length only1 and can be sewn round and round until the lower margin of the crown galloon is covered with one or two rows of weft4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,i previously stated that 8,i propose making a wig 7in the first instance7 of a strong and durable character1 and with woven hair throughout20 but ,i have another object in view besides strength and durability4 ,in all that ,i have written about 8,board-work10 ,i have addressed myself chiefly to apprentices and improvers1 and in this particular instance ,i wished the young wig-maker to possess himself of a good specimen of his abilities4 ,indeed1 ,i am now about setting a task which will try his ingenuity1 and if successful in doing it well1 he may justly feel proud of his work4 ,it is to make a crown according to the illustration given on the preceding page4 ,a reference to ,fig4 #ci shows a wig mount1 with the circular space left for the crown1 which is1 moreover1 divided into four parts4 ,in each of these divisions the weft 7carefully and finely made for the purpose7 is to be sewn according to the diagram ,fig4 #dj4 ,it will be seen from the covered half that each row of hair overlaps the other1 and the greatest nicety should be exercised in working the exact centre1 so as to conceal1 if possible1 every sign of weft4 ,this is to be done by adroit workmanship1 assisted by a warm iron and careful pressing4 ,to make a parting with the weft take a needleful of white cotton1 mark the place for the parting1 and the width it is intended to be4 ,simply make two straight lines from the crown to the temple1 about an inch apart1 and on the side the parting is worn4 ,having done this1 remember that when sewing on the weft1 it is to be turned back for an inch1 and then returned again1 so as to follow on in its proper course2 these turnings and re-turnings being necessary 7#a7 to bring the rows closer together1 and 7#b7 to make a division without showing the net foundation4 ,of course1 a clear and distinct parting must not be attempted in this case1 but just such a division as a hairdresser should be able to make on a gentleman's head with a brush only4 ,all being so far completed1 the next thing to do is to press the work1 but not the hair1 otherwise the curl will disappear4 ,take a smooth1 warm1 pressing iron and begin1 say1 upon the left side1 nearest the face4 ,this will be at one of the angles1 or points4 ,separate three or four rows of weft at a time1 and of a convenient width1 so as to hold the slip of hair firmly between the two fore-fingers of the left hand4 ,damp the weft only1 with a small sponge1 or the finger1 at the same time inclining the curled ends to the face2 press1 lay the curl flat and leave it undisturbed4 ,in like manner the whole of the work has to be treated1 and when finishing off at the crown1 see that its peculiar circular turn or inclination is well preserved4 ,having allowed a little time to elapse for all to get cold and 8set10 cut the basting stitches1 and carefully take the wig off the block4 ,pull out all loose threads1 examine your work1 and see that everything is as it ought to be4 ,i have said that the block for this kind of work should exceed the circumference of the head by half an inch or more2 this allowance is necessary1 as it insures an easy fit1 and provides to a certain extent for shrinking4 ,besides1 should it prove to be a fault1 it is one easily got over by means of an elastic spring1 or springs4 ,these springs are made of different lengths2 but for a gentleman's wig1 one would probably be two-and-a-half inches long1 and it has to go at the back of the neck4 ,take the wig1 turn the back part inside out1 so as to get at the lower galloon easily4 ,cut a piece of galloon the same width1 and full an inch longer than the spring4 ,mark the centre1 and sew neatly 7both edges7 to the lower galloon1 so as to form a casing for the spring4 ,the stitching should not be continued to the ends4 ,now take a needle with doubled silk and fix it to one end of the spring2 put the head of the needle foremost1 and pass it through as though it were a bodkin4 ,draw the spring into position1 and firmly sow first one end to the wig1 and 7having previously attached a second needle and silk to the other end7 then the other4 ,the degree of tightness required must be your guide1 both as to the length of spring and amount of elasticity4 ,turn in the free ends of the galloon and sew neatly as before1 until all is perfectly covered4 ,should a second spring be required1 it is to be placed above1 in exactly the same way1 upon the fillet or band which goes around the head4 ,the wig is again to be put on the block1 the hair cut with a razor1 by a kind of gliding motion 7to taper off the ends as much as possible71 brushed and dressed4 ,it is now ready for the wearer1 and any other alterations in regard to trimming1 etc41 can be done upon the head1 so as to adapt it to the features4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,of ,gentlemen's ,wigs 7continued7--,difference between ,woven and ,knotted ,wigs considered--,instructions for ,making a ,knotted ,wig--,of the ,parting and ,crown--,of the ,crown only--,pressing1 ,dressing1 etc4--,a ,superior kind of ,wig ,described1 and ,making the same--,the ,transparent ,parting and ,crown--,sundry ,important ,details4 8,do you not think10 said a gentleman to me one day1 8that a wig made with weft is rather old-fashioned80 ,the question can only be answered in the affirmative1 because knotted work has very generally superseded it1 but1 ,i maintain1 for a man to be clever in any trade or profession 7and wig-making forms no exception to the rule71 he must be acquainted with all the rudimentary parts4 ,to be well grounded in the first principles of an art is1 other qualifications being equal1 a sure precursor of success4 ,careful instructors are well aware of this1 and as a consequence1 cause their pupils to undergo much preliminary training before entrusting them with more difficult tasks4 ,the medical and legal professions1 painting1 sculpture and music1 chemistry1 photography1 and many others might be enumerated to show the amount of technical instruction which must1 as it were1 be drilled into a man before he is sufficiently clever to take a foremost place in his profession4 ,the art of hairdressing furnishes another instance of what ,i am asserting1 and the talented coiffeurs1 who give expositions of their skill at the different concours in ,paris and ,london1 afford examples of untiring energy1 and great attention to the most trifling details4 ,the fact is1 he who desires to be clever must go plodding1 plodding on1 regarding nothing as too trivial for him to do1 and nothing 7within reason7 too difficult for him to attempt4 ,weft of one kind or the other will always be in requisition2 it is the key-stone of the hair-work trade1 affords employment to the less skilful1 imparts durability to false hair manufactures1 and is contributory to cheapness4 ,my inquiring friend could have put a similar question to me respecting the metallic spring2 but1 let me ask1 if a customer did not wish it1 and it was not considered necessary by the wig-maker1 why introduce it at all8 ,the spring can be left out1 and other lesser springs substituted1 as it is very much a matter of taste or convenience4 ,some persons cannot bear the pressure of a metallic spring1 which1 perhaps1 is attributable more to the spring not fitting the head properly than to the oversensitiveness of the wearer4#bf ,yet ,i am under an impression that1 for ordinary wear1 a wig with a well-fitting metallic spring across the top1 or at the back of the head 7the latter especially7 is both secure and comfortable2 the wig retains its shape better1 and1 with weft1 is much more durable4 ,in matters of this description a great deal depends upon circumstances1 and the arrangements made between buyer and seller4 ,my desire is to give completeness to the work which ,i have undertaken2 to have1 as it were1 a 8word in season0 for every emergency2 to lead the pupil far on the road towards proficiency1 and1 having arrived there1 he can well be left to look after himself1 for he is no longer a learner1 but a good boardsman4 ,to make a knotted wig1 ,i will direct the reader's attention to ,figs4 #ch and #ci1 and request him to mount a wig in accordance with the instructions given therewith4 ,he can mount it with1 or without1 the metallic spring1 but in either case1 care must be taken to affix springs of the requisite lengths1 and in suitable places to keep the angles or points well in position4 ,all the springs must be neatly covered1 and put on before the net2 in fact1 as the wig is to be knotted1 all galloon work should be done first1 and the net affixed last4 ,silk net is to be used4 ,in sewing1 first stitch the net to the edge of the galloon in the usual way1 and allow it to overlap the other edge before cutting off4 ,now that portion which overlaps is to be turned under and sewn1 of course1 to the second edge1 and thus all the galloon becomes firmly covered with net4 ,the same applies to the springs and with even greater force to the edges of the mount itself2 and here it is necessary to be extremely careful1 for when the job is completed and comes under the scrutinizing glance of the master1 all wefts should be as regular and well-set as plants in a garden4 ,there must not be inequalities1 gaps1 or other irregularities1 all should be neat and trim4 ,in this instance ,i do not propose inserting either a parting or crown4 ,i rather prefer leaving the student to 8try his 'prentice hand0 in making them himself1 at least1 so far as he is able4 ,my last wig was not intended for a clearly defined parting2 neither is this one4 ,the mount is now ready for the hair1 instructions concerning which have already been given4 ,the course to be pursued when knotting the hair1 is similar to that which was adopted with the weft--the object being the same4 ,i would observe that1 instead of turning in the net as before directed1 the maker can 7if he chooses7 sew upon the galloon two or three rows of very fine wig-weft2 one or two of them1 however1 must cover the edge of the net as well4 ,additional firmness being thus secured1 the knotting can then be proceeded with4 ,in knotting over or on the galloon and springs1 coarser work1 if considered desirable1 may very well be done1 but when it is executed on the net1 the knots should be moderately fine and regular4 ,the angles1 or points of the wig1 are to be well and properly filled in1 and of course1 all the hair should be drawn in the direction in which it is intended to lie4 ,how close1 or how far apart1 the knots are to be placed is difficult to say4 ,all net is not made alike2 some meshes being large while others are small1 and1 of course1 a fixed rule would not apply4 ,besides1 all workmen are not painstaking or patient1 therefore the knotter must observe closely the aspect of his work1 and be the judge4 ,perhaps1 with a moderately close mesh1 it might be sufficient to knot hair in every other space2 if this appears to make it too thick1 reduce the number of hairs4 ,this is a tolerably safe rule to follow1 and a little practical experience will do the rest4 ,the shorter hair is to be used for the neck and sides1 the longer for the top2 but in these matters such copious instructions are already given that the student cannot well make a mistake if he reads them attentively4 ,he has merely to substitute 8knots0 for 8weft10 and the whole will apply to the job he has now undertaken4 ,as to the parting and crown1 some of the details which have appeared are applicable here4 ,as a clearly defined parting is not intended1 it is merely necessary to implant1 or knot the hair closer and finer on the side where the parting should be1 than in any other portions of the wig4 ,what division there is should be made with the brush 7not with the comb71 care being taken that the foundation is well covered with hair1 and1 of course1 concealed from view4 ,the crown is to be done last of all1 and1 if knotted upon the wig net1 the design given for making a woven crown1 ,fig4 #dj1 should be carried out as far as possible4 ,the four sections are to be knotted in such a way that the hair of one falls over the other1 while the knotting immediately in the centre should be finely and closely arranged4 ,except it be for practice or an economical customer1 ,i do not expect that such a crown will generally be made1 because a silk1 skin1 net1 gauze1 or other crown can be obtained from the hair merchant1 or patent parting maker1 which1 of course1 imparts a better finish to the wig1 and presents a more natural appearance4 ,the illustration1 ,fig4 #ci1 gives a circle adapted for either of the crowns just mentioned1 and if a silk or skin one be employed no alteration in this part of the wig is required2 but1 should a transparent one be inserted1 the cross-pieces of galloon must be omitted when mounting1 or else cut away afterwards--the reason is obvious4 ,if a transparent crown be inserted1 it is optional whether a piece of thin skin 7or other light material7 be put on first1 so as to prevent1 to a certain extent1 the effect of perspiration1 but if a human hair foundation be employed1 no such precaution is necessary4 ,whether a protecting substance be used or not1 that part of the crown in which hair is implanted should be brought close to the inner edge of the galloon1 and the free portion1 i4e41 that upon which no hair appears1 should lie flat on the galloon1 to which it must be neatly sewn4 ,should any of the material on which the crown is worked overlap the galloon1 of course it must be cut away4 ,the vacant space 7which will be just the width of the galloon7 can then be filled in with weft1 unless the net is properly arranged for knotting4 ,but1 should a non-transparent parting be employed1 the galloon can remain as shown1 and the whole be covered with the net used for the wig4 ,in this case the edges of the crown are to be turned in very neatly before it is sewn in position1 and1 if possible1 they ought to be concealed by means of the galloon1 the intervening space is either to be filled in with weft1 or else the hair can be knotted4 ,it will thus be seen that various methods of finishing off what might be termed the crowning point of a common wig can very well be adopted4 ,for ,pressing1 ,dressing1 ,elastic ,springs1 c41 see remarks which have from time to time been made4 ,i have given such copious directions for making gentlemen's wigs1 and dwelt at such length upon the various points essential to a good fit and the comfort of the wearer1 that1 perhaps1 but little more need be said upon the subject4 ,my instructions have been chiefly associated with productions that are strong and durable1 for it may be accepted as a truth that when a man can execute the commoner work well1 only a short time will elapse before he attempts1 or is called upon1 to do something better4 ,besides1 as ,i have so frequently remarked1 my instructions are more intended for learners than for skilled men4 ,these do not stand in need of instruction2 indeed1 it would be impertinent to offer it to them2 but with apprentices1 improvers1 and others whose opportunities for learning are few1 the case is widely different4 ,though ,i have dwelt at some length on the manufacture of gentlemen's wigs--wigs that will endure a fair amount of every-day wear--yet a few particulars concerning the better-class article will certainly not be out of place1 and might prove to be exceedingly useful4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4 ,i must1 therefore1 again direct the reader to observe ,figs4 #ch and #ci1 and attentively read the instructions with which they are accompanied4 ,having done this1 the above illustration is to be studiously regarded1 and a marked difference will easily be perceived4 ,the outline1 as a matter of course1 is to be preserved1 and if the student feels so inclined1 he can take a tracing and fill in the markings shown upon the others4 ,there is no necessity for doing so1 except that it impresses the mounting of a wig upon his memory in a more effectual manner4 ,this wig is intended for a transparent parting and crown1 the foundation of which may be either human hair1 gauze1 net1 or such material as is generally used for the purpose4 ,before putting on the mount1 it is best to provide the parting and crown1 as well as the hair to be used for the other parts of the wig4 ,instructions as to length and quantity have already been given4 ,my reason for saying that the parting and crown should be obtained before putting on the mount is1 because exactness can be better observed4 ,the edges of the parting work lie on the galloon to which it is sewn2 the inner edges of the galloon must come close up to the margin of the implanted hair2 8gaps0 or vacancies should not be observable1 but when the wig is removed from the block and examined1 the parting and crown1 being surrounded with the galloon1 ought to look like a piece of artistic work well set in a frame4 ,of course1 a silk or skin parting and crown may be employed instead of a transparent one1 but then there is no occasion to leave the opening in front1 as shown in the engraving4#bg ,in that case the galloon can pass round the head1 be continued across1 and the whole covered with net2 this will impart strength to the wig--a transparent effect not being required4 ,to mount a wig for the transparent parting and crown1 commence tacking on the galloon at the neck1 the free portion lying towards the left hand4 ,proceed1 keeping the galloon fairly tight till you reach the lower part of the ear2 use more points1 and continue till the top of the ear is approached2 carefully curve the galloon and make a decided point in front of the ear4 ,then incline the galloon as shown on the temple1 and up to where one corner of the parting is intended to be attached4 ,turn the galloon and trace the outline for parting and crown1 returning to the angle near the centre of the forehead4 ,incline the galloon sufficiently low 7but not lower than is absolutely required7 and continue round the other side of the block till the starting-place is reached4 ,cut off1 but see that there is at least half-an-inch of free galloon upon each side1 which will presently have to be sewn together4 ,you have now the outline galloon upon the block1 which1 after careful measurements1 must be securely basted4 7,the 8points0 and basting stitches sufficiently well indicate this47 ,afterwards1 it will be found that the galloon is puckered in various places2 pinch some of these together1 sew through and through close to the block1 and fix so as to obliterate all such indications4 ,the inner galloon or 8fillet0 is next to be put on4 ,this passes round the back of the head 7at the neck7 and is fastened upon the galloon at each side of the parting4 ,a piece of galloon is then placed at the back1 extending from the crown to the lower part of the neck2 pieces of galloon being put at the sides1 reaching from the top of the ears to the crown4 ,another piece of galloon is attached to the point upon the forehead1 and joins the parting galloon in a straight line with the piece at the back4 ,springs are placed as shown in the engraving1 or in such other positions as may be required4 ,no metallic spring across the top can be used1 and one at the back is best avoided1 for with correct measurements1 and perhaps one or two elastic springs in the neck1 a close-fitting wig may well be assured4 ,a reference to the illustrations will suggest other minor details1 and1 after all that has been said1 the learner will know how to deal with them4 ,the mount having been completed1 the springs being neatly covered and placed in position1 it now remains to put on the net4 ,given a transparent parting and crown1 the other portions of the wig should be knotted4 ,indeed1 all the better class of work ought to be so treated1 though1 in some instances1 a little weft may be employed with advantage1 especially if strength be required4 ,however1 in this instance1 ,i have designed a knotted wig1 the openness or closeness of the net being left to your own selection2 regard always being paid to the kind of work you are going to do4 ,when this part of the wig is completed the net ought to 8fit like a glove10 and wherever there is galloon1 the net must be sewn to the edges of the same4 ,the knotting or insertion of the hair ought to be done with neatness and great regularity1 and should be continued until nearly the whole of the wig is covered1 with the exception of the parting and crown4 ,having dwelt at length on this part of the subject in other places1 ,i cannot do better than ask the student to refer back for more complete details4 ,with regard to the transparent parting and crown1 the reader is invited to look at ,fig4 #da1 and he will perceive that the side galloons 7on which the edges of the parting and crown are intended to be sewn7 are securely held in position by some large stitches placed in a zigzag direction4 ,these stitches can be increased or diminished at pleasure1 or taken away altogether if such a step be desired1 but ,i do not recommend it4 ,they are intended to impart additional strength to the zephyr-like parting2 to keep it from tearing1 and to prevent its widening or stretching1 as it most likely will do1 unless something effectual be done to stop it4 ,most certainly there ought to be a 8stitch0 or 8stay0 within half an inch of the front of the parting1 another should be placed where the parting ends and the crown begins1 while a third might well be put mid-way between the two4 ,there is a substance specially employed for making these stitches1 called 8,silkworm ,gut10 which can be obtained at ,messrs4 ,hovenden ,sons' warehouses1 and1 as its name implies1 is a kind of gut1 white in appearance1 and impervious to perspiration4 ,the best white silk cord 7about the thickness of coarse thread7 is sometimes preferred2 it can be renewed when thought desirable1 and is1 further1 soft to the head4 ,this arrangement1 then1 being completed1 a piece of skin1 used for the purpose1 can be attached to the side galloons1 but is not required when the foundation is made of human hair4 ,the skin should not be allowed to reach the front of the parting1 and must be turned upwards and inwards1 so as to present a neat and even appearance at the edge when the wig is taken off the block4 ,these preliminaries having been duly attended to1 the parting and crown may now be put in position and sewn carefully1 so as to avoid any wrinkles or puckering2 it must lie flat1 be perfectly smooth1 and resemble the natural parting of hair as much as possible4 ,herein lies the art of the wig-maker--to imitate nature so skilfully that detection is almost impossible--a feat that is accomplished not unfrequently by some of the most skilful wig-makers of the day4 ,the larger portion of the mount being now covered with hair1 and the parting and crown fixed1 it remains for the intervening spaces to be filled in1 which having been done the work is ready to be pressed4 ,instructions and remarks on this branch of the subject have already been given4 ,if possible1 it is at all times desirable to try on a wig before giving it up to the wearer1 and this remark has special reference to gentlemen's wigs4 ,elastic springs 7in the neck7 may or may not be put in before the fitting process takes place1 and the finishing touches should1 if required1 be completed upon the head4 ,the hair ought to be well combed and dressed to the face1 and anything striking or likely to draw attention to the wearer 7so far as the wig is concerned7 must be studiously avoided4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,of ,ladies' ,wigs1 and important remarks thereon--,of ,mounting and ,making ,ladies' ,wigs--,a well-balanced ,wig essential--,a ,wig with ,parting and ,straight ,hair throughout--,all ,weft to be concealed--,alterations--,of ,wigs with transparent ,partings--,mounting and ,making the same--,shape of ,head to be noted1 together with any elevations or depressions--,the ,wig-block should be a correct ,model of the ,head4 ,it is now my intention to treat of ladies' wigs1 but before doing so1 ,i desire to make a few general remarks concerning them4 ,if possible1 ,i think it best to avoid making an entire wig for ladies' wear1 if the customary plaited knot is intended to be worn behind1 and my reason for expressing such an opinion will presently appear4 ,partial baldness among the female sex is not uncommon1 but this defect can well be concealed by coverings specially made for the purpose4 ,these pieces of ingenious workmanship1 be they frontlets1 scalpettes1 fringes1 partings1 twists1 chignons1 curls1 plaits1 or what not1 are easily and securely attached to the natural hair-growth1 while a ribbon-bow1 feather1 flower1 lace1 cap1 or other decoration lends a charm1 and completes the coiffure4 ,but when a wig is required1 through the head being very considerably deprived of its natural covering1 a difficulty immediately arises as to holding it securely in position1 and this difficulty is increased by the smoothness of the scalp1 caused1 perhaps1 through the nature of the ailment1 or in consequence of the head being shaved4 ,besides1 to promote the growth of hair1 the shaving process should be frequently repeated1 and1 as a consequence1 the smoothness remains until the hair has acquired sufficient strength and thickness to be permitted to grow4 ,then1 as the hair increases in growth1 the wig becomes more troublesome1 and it is a welcome moment when the wearer can discontinue its use1 and appear in a 8short crop0 which is1 at the present time1 so generally adopted for fashion's sake4 ,but some cases of alopecia are known to have defied all attempts to restore the hair1 while others1 again1 only lose it for a time1 from no assignable reason4 ,instances like this necessarily require coverings for the head1 which1 in the case of gentlemen1 are comparatively easy to deal with1 but in long-haired wigs for ladies it is a different matter altogether4 ,copious instructions have been given respecting board work in general1 and the various manufactures therewith connected2 and the ingenious tradesman will find but little difficulty1 ,i am inclined to think1 in devising a wig for ladies' wear1 whether it be curled all over as a 8friz10 with or without parting1 or frizzed in front only1 with the hair short and partially straight behind4 ,in either case the wearer would be at liberty to exercise discretion in the use of additional postiches1 which may be employed with advantage1 either as regards appearance1 comfort1 and what is perhaps no less important--additional security4 ,in making wigs let it be a golden rule 7#a7 that they bind well to the head1 and 7#b7 that the front and back parts be equally-well balanced1 or1 as nearly so as possible4 ,i said just now that ,i thought 8it best to avoid making an entire wig for ladies' wear1 especially if the customary plaited knot is intended to be worn behind10 and here is my reason for saying so3 ,it too frequently happens that wigs of this description are over-weighted at the back4 ,consequently they slide away from the face1 leaving the forehead bare4 ,this1 of course1 is a fearful source of anxiety and annoyance to the wearer1 and complaint is forthwith made to the tradesman who executed the order4 ,the article is then returned perhaps as a misfit1 or else to undergo certain alterations4 ,these are carried out by additional depth being given to the front2 necessitating1 perhaps1 the insertion of a new parting2 the hair at the back probably will be reduced in quantity 7and it may be shortened71 the result proving1 doubtless1 satisfactory4 ,why8 ,because the wig is now more evenly balanced1 and consequently sits upon the head a great deal better4 ,here1 then1 is the secret of making a wig feel comfortable--let it be well proportioned1 and use no more hair than is necessary4 ,i cannot conceive anything so distressing to a wearer as the feeling of anxiety and discomfort which a wig causes through evincing a strong tendency to slip down behind4 ,this should be overcome1 and a clever wig-maker can1 if permitted to use his own judgment1 prevent1 under ordinary circumstances1 such a contretemps taking place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,respecting the mounting of a lady's wig1 ,i wish1 in the first place1 to direct the learner's attention to what ,i have said upon the subject in preceding chapters1 so as to avoid unnecessary repetitions4 ,true the matter there refers to those worn by gentlemen1 but the modus operandi is almost identical1 and will apply1 to a very great extent1 in both instances4 ,the clean block and pencilled outline1 the putting on of the galloon1 and attention to curves1 the ears1 temples1 etc41 must be equally well attended to--the principal difference being in the shape of the front part1 to which it is requisite more particularly to allude4 ,in comparing ,fig4 #ch 7mount for gentleman's wig7 with the mount for a lady's wig1#bh the variation becomes apparent4 ,a gentleman wears the parting at the side1 but as a lady usually parts her hair in the centre1 the front has necessarily to be somewhat differently designed4 ,let us suppose that a wig has to be made according to the design given on the preceding page1 with a patent skin parting in front and long hair behind4 ,the parting1 ,i should say1 ought to be five or six inches in length if straight hair is to be employed1 and1 perhaps1 still longer should 8a friz10 or short curls be desired4 ,why8 ,to preserve the balance as much as possible1 of which ,i have already spoken4 ,there might be 7say1 for example7 two ounces of #ad and #af-;inch hair in front1 and two and a-half ounces of #ah and #bj-;inch at the back2 and if the mount be made well forward there need not be any apprehension of the wig slipping off4 ,but should the wearer wish to have a fringe on the forehead1 with curls at the sides 7either long or short71 equality of weight must1 nevertheless1 be maintained1 and the other portion treated accordingly4 ,a well-balanced wig is1 at all times1 essential to success4 ,to make a wig1 then1 for straight hair only1 mount it as previously instructed4 ,having fixed the galloon according to pencilled outlines1 baste it carefully and put another piece of galloon across the top1 which must extend from ear to ear4 ,next attach galloon to where the mount rises above the temples1 pass it round the back like a fillet1 and fasten on to the corresponding side4 ,prepare and cover the springs1 and place in position as indicated4 ,in the neck1 just behind the ears1 two other springs are to be attached1 similar to those marked in ,fig4 #ci4 ,galloon is also to pass from the top of the parting to the nape of the neck2 a piece of broad ribbon on the top1 between the two springs1#bi and the net being put on finishes the mount4 ,whether the hair shall be woven or knotted is optional1 and in reference to both methods of affixing hair1 instructions have been freely given in other places4 ,if the former be decided upon it may be advisable to refer to page #aci1 i4e41 in so far as the front is concerned1 but a somewhat different way must be adopted with the back4 ,after filling up the neck and angular parts with the longest or most suitable length of hair1 it will be found that there remains a more or less circular place at the back to be covered1 and in order to do this properly the sewing should be commenced in the middle1 and continued round and round 7like making rings upon paper without removing the pencil71 until the whole is filled in4 ,the weft ought to be very fine and well spread1 and in the centre part especially the rows need not be anything like close together4 ,indeed1 rather than leave an unseemly opening1 ,i have found it necessary at times to fill up the middle portion with short1 fine hair1 which1 being concealed by the longer hair is no defect whatever4 ,by such an arrangement1 lightness is maintained1 while the rows of weft are continuous and regular4 ,the weft being measured1 and a calculation made as to the space to be covered1 the worker must then act accordingly4 ,there are two principal points now to be mentioned4 ,first1 the cross-parting from ear to ear1 which in the present instance ,i have designed should be formed with the weft4 ,it requires some little ability to do this nicely1 for the hair must be so placed as to conceal the weft1 though still making a separation or parting4 ,some do it by adroitly covering with the hair all the weft except the last row1 which1 being closely woven and very fine withal1 is sewn on the wig the wrong way1 but1 the hair being pressed into proper position1 covers the weft1 and effectually conceals it from view4 ,there are other modes of attaining this object1 but much depends on a man's ingenuity1 for here is a difficulty which a clever workman must seek to overcome4 ,secondly1 it is natural for some fine1 short1 more or less fluffy hair to grow in the neck2 and here is the next trial of skill on the part of the wig-maker4 ,no weft1 of course1 should be seen in such a noticeable place1 therefore attention must be given at the outset to hide the lower row or rows1 partly by skilful manipulation in sewing on1 and also by means of the short hair to which ,i have just alluded4 ,in effecting the concealment of the weft1 attention should be given to the different kinds employed in the manufacture of postiches1 etc4#cj ,referring to the illustration last given1 ,i wish to observe that the mount there shown can be adapted to a transparent1 instead of a skin parting1 with very little trouble4 ,an order might be taken for one of the latter description1 and perhaps countermanded when the mount is completed in favour of one of a lighter manufacture4 ,all that is necessary under such circumstances would be to cut away the lower-central piece of galloon2 adapt the basting threads to the altered conditions1 and connect with zigzag stitches4#ca ,besides1 alterations are not unfrequently required in wigs after they have been worn2 and a wearer may wish for increased ventilation in it1 through its causing the head to feel hot and uncomfortable2 or other changes might be wanted which necessitate the insertion of a new parting4 ,the requirements of people are various1 but the ingenious workman seldom acknowledges a difficulty that 7within reasonable limits7 cannot be overcome4 ,to make a lady's wig with transparent partings1 pencil the outlines upon a clean block1 but1 if possible1 get the partings done before-hand2 my reason for this ,i have already given4 ,exactness is essential1 for1 with the mount being made in one place and the partings 7front and cross-partings7 in another1 a discrepancy might occur which is best avoided4 ,i will suppose that the hair1 partings1 galloon1 net1 etc41 are all ready to hand2 the measurements carefully observed1 and1 perhaps1 some other necessary details noted4 ,commence by tacking on the galloon at the neck1 bring it towards the left ear1 and then1 over the temple to the side of the parting2 turn1 and continue the galloon as far back towards the crown as the front parting is intended to go4 ,turn again1 and fasten off at the top of the ear1 taking care to follow the line marked for the parting4 ,a portion of one side of the mount is thus formed which can be traced by referring to ,fig4 #db4 ,the right side should be done in the same way1 and ,i need hardly observe that both sides must correspond exactly4 ,next place the galloon so as to extend from one temple to the other1 and across the back of the neck after the manner of a fillet1 but it must overlap 7just behind the ear7 that which was first put on4 ,another piece of galloon is next to be fixed in position across the top of the head1 extending from one ear to the other4 ,with an obvious exception at the top1 there will now be two galloons exactly the width and length of the cross parting1 and two galloons in front also1 exactly the width and length of the front parting4 ,the professed wig-maker may raise an objection to the galloon remaining at the ends of the side partings2 but in such places it will scarcely be seen1 and by allowing it to remain much additional strength is given to the wig--no unimportant consideration with those of an economical turn of mind4 ,but1 as ,i have repeatedly stated1 these lessons are not designedly for the very skilful1 and it is a question whether the man who attempts to make a wig such as ,i am describing need refer to this at all4 ,i imagine not1 but there are learners1 and to them instruction will always be acceptable4 ,the springs 7made of fine watch-spring7 are to be neatly covered and placed in their respective positions4 ,it is advisable to affix one on each side of the front parting1 and the others where necessary to maintain the proper shape of the mount4 ,the net should be put on next and sewn according to instructions frequently given before4 ,whether the hair is to be knotted or woven1 the maker must decide1 but perhaps the former is best adapted for a wig of this kind4 ,whether the partings should be attached before or after a greater portion of the hair is knotted or sewn on1 is optional1 so long as their proper adaptation is secured4 ,should they be of gauze or net1 it may be thought desirable1 first of all1 to attach some thin skin1 to counteract as much as possible the effects of perspiration and grease2 but if the foundation be made of human hair1 no such precaution is necessary4 ,i have before alluded to the different kinds of net used in wig-making1 and there is also variety in galloons1 some being white and some flesh-colour1 as well as the ordinary brown4 ,bear in mind my remarks about ladies' wigs being well-balanced1 and when measuring the head1 carefully observe the shape4 ,if smooth and round1 two elastic springs in the neck will be absolutely necessary2 but should the head incline to fulness 7either back or front7 these more or less prominent organs1 speaking phrenologically1 will perhaps give a 8stay0 to the wig1 and the elastics may be considered unnecessary4 ,a word or two concerning natural elevations and depressions may probably be useful4 ,it has been previously stated that in mounting a wig the block must be at least half an inch larger round than the actual measurement2 this is to allow for shrinking4 ,should there be any protuberances or 8bumps0 apparent1 a similar elevation must be made upon the block1 and1 of course1 exactly in the same position4 ,this may be done with thin sheet lead1 such as tea-chests are lined with2 but should there be a depression1 then the place upon the block must be filed or scraped away if necessary4 ,the block is1 as it were1 the model2 and with a good model to work upon1 a perfect fit can almost be ensured4 ,i need not dilate upon any other styles of ladies' wigs1 believing that ,i have said quite enough to enable a man to make almost anything that might be required4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,the use of ,leather ,rollers in ,curling ,hair--,papering and ,pinching ,hair with the same object in view--,plaiting ,hair 7for ,coiffures7--,of ,razors1 ,razor ,setting1 and ,razor ,strops--,miscellaneous ,recipes4 ,besides the preparation of hair for making it into twists1 curls1 bandeaux1 scalps1 wigs1 etc41 there are many other things to be done with care and attention1 and 8,board-work0 will not be complete without some allusion being made to them4 ,for instance1 there is the curling of hair with leathern rollers4 ,these rollers are smooth1 soft1 round1 and well adapted to the purpose4 ,they make a nice curl if properly manipulated1 do not break the hair1 and only the application of a little warmth is necessary4 ,for ringlet hair nothing can be better1 no matter whether it be real or false4 ,next to the employment of rollers1 is the process of papering and pinching the hair4 ,a dexterous workman experiences no difficulty whatever in rolling up a thin strip of hair 7no matter whether it be long or short7 with his thumb and finger1 and wrapping the usual three-cornered curl paper around it4 ,but a curling-peg is more generally employed4 ,this is a round piece of hard wood about six inches long1 perfectly smooth1 with one end much thinner than the other4 ,the reason is--should the hair be short1 or a tight curl required1 the small end must be used1 but if the hair be long1 and a full1 round1 curl wanted1 then the thicker portion has to be employed4 ,the curl is made by rolling it round and round the 8peg0 7beginning at the points and ending at the roots71 and keeping it as flat as possible all the time4 ,then hold the curled portion securely between the thumb and fingers of the left hand1 withdraw the 8peg10 and place the curl within the three-cornered paper aforesaid1 screwing up the ends to make all secure4 ,when this is done1 the curl should feel perfectly round within the paper1 the centre being equally as well formed but hollow4 ,bear in mind what ,i have so frequently said before1 that all curls should turn to the face4 ,only a medium quantity of hair is to be taken for each curl1 and all ought to be about the same size4 ,the curls are next to be 8pinched10 and1 for this purpose1 pinching irons are brought into requisition4 ,if the hair be somewhat new1 and of good quality1 the less heat that is applied the better1 but should it be otherwise much warmth and pressure is necessary4 ,old hairdressers can recollect when the fronts and curls which came to be re-dressed had to be baked 7they were so numerous71 and how trouble was caused sometimes1 through their being 8overdone40 ,the papering should be done in regular order1 and all quite cold before the papers are removed4 ,for dressing1 a little oil 7not pomade7 should be used1 and the curls--if long or short ringlets--formed with the aid of a curl-stick or cold curling irons4 ,true1 they can be formed with the fingers1 but the other method ,i consider best4 ,short1 round curls1 of course must be made with the fingers after a little frizzing1 but these operations are difficult to explain in writing--they want practical illustration1 which1 now that we have societies and schools1 is easily obtainable4 ,concerning the beautiful art of plaiting hair for ladies' coiffures1 the reader is informed that copious instructions are already given in my 8,lessons in ,hairdressing10 and to that work he is respectfully referred4 ,of razors and razor-sharpening much might be said1 both as regards the instrument itself1 as well as the proper mode of keeping it in order4 ,every hairdresser and barber knows when he is in possession of a good razor1 and undoubtedly takes proper care of it4 ,he is to be commended for this1 as he simply follows the course adopted by those in other walks in life4 ,whether the old-fashioned description of razor is better or worse than the more modern 8hollow-ground0 ,i will not discuss1 believing that a great deal depends upon the shaver1 the nature of the beard1 and the conditions under which the shaving operation is performed4 ,good practice in a barber's shop is the best school in the world for imparting a knowledge of easy shaving2 while ordinary intelligence combined with shrewd observation1 will go far towards making one a master of his art4 8,it appears10 observes a writer#cb on the subject1 8that the choice of a razor may quite as well be left to the makers1 as determined by the purchaser2 however1 it sometimes happens1 that1 exclusive of its goodness1 the weight1 the poise1 c41 of a razor1 are circumstances which seem to claim acquaintance with particular hands2 and1 with regard to these1 every one will do well to suit himself4 8,i have lately ventured1 notwithstanding the long-established notion that weight is a very requisite property in a razor1 to recommend those which were deficient in this respect2 and ,i will embrace this opportunity to offer the reasons which influenced my judgment on the subject4 8,it does not appear1 upon considering by what means a razor acts1 that its ponderosity can assist in the operation2 the performance depending upon the condition of the edge1 abstractedly from its weight2 momentum can assist only where force is requisite2 thus1 in dividing a tough piece of wood1 we find that the edge of a knife1 however keen1 cannot make its way2 it becomes necessary1 therefore1 to use some instrument of more weight1 which1 being applied by an accelerated action of the arm1 becomes equal to the task4 ,the weight of all cutting instruments should be adapted according to the nature of their acting2 and if the beard required to be hewn1 or chopped off1 doubtless1 a hatchet1 with a sharp edge1 would answer the purpose better than a razor2 on the contrary1 if the beard can be erased by an unforced incision1 which is certainly the case1 an instrument of no considerable weight1 with a proper edge1 will always deserve the preference2 for the hand1 having nothing to overcome in point of weight1 performs with more exactness and ease1 than it possibly can1 when feeling the oppression of weight in the instrument it has to manage40 ,as regards hollow-ground razors much can be said in their favour1 and many in the trade consider them to be the best1 but of this each man must judge for himself4 ,i think that much depends on fancy1 and what we are accustomed to1 as well as to the mode of treatment4 ,sometimes it is requisite to put a long-used razor by for a time so as to restore its edge1 and the following observations anent 8,tired ,razors0 are propos of the subject3--,barbers often assert that razors get 8tired0 of shaving1 and that they will work satisfactorily if permitted to rest for a time4 ,it has been found by microscopic examination that the 8tired0 razor1 from long stropping by the same hand1 and in the same direction1 has the ultimate fibres of its surface or edge all arranged in one direction1 like the edge of a piece of cut velvet2 but after a month's rest the fibres rearrange themselves heterogeneously1 crossing each other1 and presenting a saw-like edge1 each fibre supporting its fellow1 and hence cutting the beard instead of being forced down flat without cutting4 ,razor-setting cannot well be taught--it must1 7like tuning a violin7--be acquired4 ,some persons are unable to set a razor with any degree of certainty1 while others become recognised as clever in that branch of the business4 ,the quality of the hone is an important consideration in razor-setting2 it should neither be too hard nor too soft4 ,the razor has to be rubbed from heel to point in the usual way1 and always turned on the back4 ,the edge should be tried from time to time upon the thumb or finger-nail1 until it feels quite smooth and keen1 it is then to be fixed or 8set40 ,this is effected by passing the razor to and fro1 as lightly as possible and with single strokes upon the hone4 ,do this for a short time until the edge 8bites0 the nail as it were1 when the setting is completed4 ,should it not do so1 the assumption is that the setting has not gone far enough2 the other extreme being when the edge is wiry1 and then the setting is overdone4 ,in either case the job is not satisfactory1 as the razor is 8not in tune10 and will quickly require to be set again4 ,stropping assists greatly in fixing the edge of a razor1 and perhaps ,i cannot do better than quote what ,mr4 ,savigny says upon the subject3-- 8,in strapping a razor1 it is necessary to observe1 that the thick or hind part bears upon the leather at the same time the edge does3 for if the back is raised1 the hand loses its only guide2 in which case it could not fail of receiving some injury2 but if the razor is applied flat1 and the strap a proper one1 ten or twelve strokes1 on each side the blade1 will be sufficient to give the edge its necessary refreshment4 8,i have always given directions to draw the razor downwards1 from the termination of the edge to the point2 having experienced that this is the most steady manner the hand can act in2 and it is an observation pretty well established1 that any thing may be drawn to a much greater degree of exactness1 than it can be shoved2 and in the present case1 were a razor to be pushed upwards along the strap1 that is1 from the point to the termination of the edge1 there would be some danger of its turning on the rivet1 and cutting both the leather and the fingers2 to be as secure as possible in this respect1 it will be well to place the hold just above the rivet1 grasping at the same time the handle1 and that part of the blade which issues from it4 8,the manner in which a proper strap acts upon a razor must necessarily form an edge most suitable for the purpose1 as it neither wears it so fast as the hone1 nor confines its effects entirely to a flat2 by the gentle manner in which it operates1 and being in some measure yielding to pressure1 it cannot leave that roughness upon the edge1 which the hone1 on account of its quickness1 and the solidity of its surface1 is commonly found to produce40 ,there cannot be two opinions regarding the importance of a good strop1 and its being kept in proper condition1 if the edge of a razor is to be considered4 ,for ordinary use1 ,i give the preference to buff leather mounted upon wood in the old style1 but there should always be a layer or two of common leather or other suitable substance between2 otherwise there will be a hardness which1 to say the least1 is not agreeable4 ,softness and pliability should always be aimed at1 and1 doubtless1 this is why many prefer a long piece of buff securely fastened to the wall4 ,in preparing the leather for shop use1 after having cleaned and thoroughly dried it1 saturate it with olive oil1 and then let it be well dressed with suitable razor paste4 7,if the leather is intended to be affixed to wood1 it must be glued on first and time allowed for the glue to harden47 ,canvas strops are generally recommended for hollow-ground razors1 but they are specially prepared in ,germany1 with the aid of suitable machinery4 ,when unprepared1 the canvas is exceedingly hard1 and to adapt it for use1 it should be filled with soft soap1 the ends secured1 and boiled for some length of time in a sufficient quantity of water4 ,it is then to be pressed flat1 scraped1 and well rubbed with a smooth1 round instrument until it becomes soft and pliable4 ,,miscellaneous ,,recipes4 ,,razor ,,pastes4 7#a47 ,from jeweller's rouge1 plumbago1 and suet1 equal parts1 melted together and stirred until cold4 7#b47 ,from prepared putty powder 7levigated oxide of tin71 #c parts2 lard1 #b parts2 crocus martis1 #a part2 triturate together4 7#c47 ,prepared putty powder1 #a oz42 powdered oxalic acid1 oz42 powdered gum1 #bj grains2 make a stiff paste with water1 q4s41 and evenly and thinly spread it over the strop1 the other side of which should be covered with any of the common greasy mixtures4 ,with very little friction this paste gives a fine edge to the razor1 and its action is still further increased by slightly moistening it1 or even breathing on it4 ,immediately after its use1 the razor should receive a few turns on the other side of the strop4 7#d47 ,mechi's4--,emery1 reduced to an impalpable powder1 #d parts2 deer suet1 #a part2 well mixed together4 7#e47 ,pradier's4--,from powdered ,turkey stone1 #d ozs42 jeweller's rouge and prepared putty powder1 of each1 #a oz42 hard suet1 #b ozs4 ,obs4--,the above 7generally made up into square cakes7 are rubbed over the razor strop1 and the surface being smoothed off with the flat part of a knife1 or a phial bottle1 the strop is set aside for a few hours to harden before being used4 ,,shaving ,,pastes4 7#a47 ,naples soap 7genuine71 #d ozs42 powdered ,castile soap1 #b ozs42 honey1 #a oz42 essence of ambergris1 and oils of cassia and nutmegs1 of each #e or #f drops4 7#b47 ,white wax1 spermaceti1 and almond oil1 of each oz42 melt1 and1 while warm1 beat in two squares of 7white7 ,windsor soap1 previously reduced to a paste with a little rose water4 7#c47 ,white1 soft soap1 #d ozs42 spermaceti and salad oil1 of each oz42 melt them together1 and stir until cold4 ,it may be scented at will4 ,when properly prepared1 these pastes produce a good lather with either hot or cold water1 which does not dry on the face4 ,the proper method of using them is to smear a minute quantity over the beard1 and then to apply the wetted shaving-brush1 and not to pour water on them1 as is the common practice4 ,,essence ,,of ,,soap1 ,,shaving ,,essence1 ,,or ,,shaving ,,fluid4 ,white hard soap#cc 7in shavings71 lb42 rectified spirit1 #a pint2 water1 pint2 perfume 7at will71 q4s4 ,put them into a strong bottle of glass or tin1 cork it close1 set it in warm water for a short time1 and occasionally agitate it briskly until solution be complete4 ,after repose1 pour off the clear portion from the dregs 7if any7 into clean bottles for use1 and at once closely cork them4 ,if the solution be not sufficiently transparent1 a little rectified spirit should be added to it before decantation4 ,a little spirit 7fully proof7 may be added if it be desired to render it thinner4 ,if much essential oil be used to perfume it1 the transparency of the product will be lessened4 ,chiefly used for shaving1 by travellers and others1 to avoid the trouble of carrying or keeping a soap-box4 ,by simply rubbing two or three drops on the skin1 and applying the shaving brush1 previously slightly dipped in water1 a good lather is produced4 ,the choice of perfume is a mere matter of taste1 as with toilet soaps1 #ae to #bj drops of essence of musk or ambergris1 #a fluid drachm of any of the ordinary fragrant essences or esprits1 or #ab or #ae drops of essential oils 7simple or mixed71 per pint1 are sufficient for the purpose1 a corresponding name being given to the preparation2 as 8,essence10 or 8,esprit de ,savon la ,rose10 8,essence ,royale pour la ,barbe10 c4--,cooley4 ,,rosemary ,,hair ,,wash4 ,cold 7boiled7 water1 gallon2 spirit of rosemary1 #aj ozs42 eau de ,cologne1 #aj ozs42 glycerine1 #b ozs42 salts of tartar1 #a oz42 liquor ammonia1 oz4 ,colour with burnt sugar4 ,,american ,,shampoo ,,liquid4 ,take of sesquicarbonate of ammonia1 and carbonate of potash1 of each1 #b drachms2 soft water1 #a pint2 dissolve1 and add the solution to a mixture of tincture of cantharides1 #a fluid ounces2 rectified spirit1 pint2 and good rum1 #a pints2 and agitate the whole well together1 adding a little scent or not1 at will4 ,a commoner kind1 in which the 8rectified spirit0 and one-third of the 8rum0 is replaced by water1 forms the 8shampoo liquid0 often used by hairdressers1 after cutting the hair4 ,a ,,wash ,,for ,,moist1 ,,lax ,,hair4 ,take of essential oil of almonds1 #a fluid drachm2 oil of cassia1 and essence of musk1 of each1 fluid drachm2 rectified spirit1 #b ounces2 mix1 and add gradually1 with brisk agitation1 #af ounces of distilled water1 in which #a ounce of finest gum arabic has been dissolved4 ,the hair and scalp should be slightly moistened with the liquid1 and the hair at once arranged1 without wiping1 whilst still moist4 ,,washes ,,for ,,dry1 ,,stubborn ,,hair4 ,the best and most effective of these consists of glycerine dissolved in any fragrant distilled water1 as that of roses1 or orange or elder flowers1 in the proportion of #a to #a ounces of the former1 to #a pint of the latter4 ,some of them also contain #ae to #bj grains of salt of tartar per pint4 ,,egg ,,julep4 ,egg julep1 or saponaceous wash1 is made as follows3--,rectified spirit1 #a pint2 rose-water1 #a gallon2 extract of rondeletia1 pint1 transparent soap1 oz42 hay saffron1 drachm2 shave up the soap very fine2 boil it and the saffron in a quart of the rose-water2 when dissolved add the remainder of the water1 then the spirit1 finally the rondeletia1 which is used by way of perfume4 ,after standing for two or three days it is fit for bottling4 ,by transmitted light it is transparent2 but by reflected light the liquid has a pearly and singularly wavy appearance when shaken4--,piesse4 ,,bay ,,rhum4 ,tincture of bay leaves1 #e ozs42 otto of bay1 #a drachm2 bicarbonate of ammonia1 #a oz42 biborate of soda 7borax71 #a oz42 rose water1 #a quart4 ,mix and filter4 ,piesse says3 8,this is a very good hair-wash4 ,it was first introduced in ,new ,york by those go-ahead scissors that #8abbreviate' the #8crown of glory4'0 ,another4 ,bay leaf otto1 oz42 magnesium carbonate1 oz42 ,jamaica rum1 #b pints2 alcohol1 #c pints2 water1 #c pints4 ,triturate the ottos with the magnesium carbonate1 gradually adding the other ingredients1 previously mixed1 and filter4--,snively4 ,,to ,,allay ,,irritation ,,of ,,the ,,skin ,,after ,,shaving4 ,powder1 either plain or scented1 is the best counter-irritant after shaving1 but as some persons give the preference to bay rhum1 the following formula may be adopted3--,bay rhum 7of the ordinary strength71 #h ozs42 rose water1 #h ozs42 glycerine1 #b ozs4 ,mix1 and let it stand for a few days1 then filter4 ,should this be found too powerful for general use1 add more rose water4 ,,brilliantine4 ,a solution of castor oil in eau de ,cologne1 #a part in #d4 ,another3 ,glycerine and eau de ,cologne1 of each #a part2 honey1 #b parts2 rectified spirit1 #d parts4 ,another formula is as follows3--,castor oil1 #a oz42 esprit de rose1 #a oz42 spirits of wine1 #b ozs4 ,a few drops of tincture of saffron to colour4 ,,marrow ,,oil4 ,prepared 7benzoated7 lard1 #c lbs42 clarified beef suet1 #a lbs42 palm oil1 lb42 yellow wax1 #d ozs42 castor oil1 #a lb42 olive oil1 #a lbs42 ess4 oils of bergamot1 lemon1 and cloves1 of each1 oz4 ,,hair ,,oil4 ,finest olive oil1 #c lbs42 castor oil1 lb42 ess4 lemon #a ozs4 ,to colour1 steep #a oz4 of alkanet root 7bruised1 and tied in muslin7 to every #bj ozs4 ,apply heat by means of a water bath1 and filter4 ,,the ,,end4 ----- ,footnote #a3 ,see page #cg4 ,footnote #b3 ,for the convenience of those who desire the information1 ,i may state that ,messrs4 ,r4 ,hovenden ,sons keep all the necessary implements in stock1 and supply them to the trade4 ,footnote #c3 ,vide ,the ,hairdressers' ,chronicle1 #aeth ,july1 #ahgf4 ,footnote #d3 ,see illustration in ,chapter ,v4 ,footnote #e3 ,see ,fig4 #i4 ,footnote #f3 ,fig4 #af4 ,footnote #g3 ,concerning ,french weights1 measures1 and money1 the following information will1 doubtless1 be useful3--,the unit in weights is the gramme4 #bh of which go to the ,english ounce2 #a1jjj grammes are called a kilogramme1 or1 shortened1 a kilo41 equal in weight to #b lb4 #c oz4 #d drs4 ,english avoirdupois4 ,the unit in measures is the metre1 equal in length to #ci inches ,english4 ,the metre is divided into #a1jjj parts1 each of which is called a millimetre2 #aj millimetres are called a centimetre4 ,the length of a centimetre is rather more than one-third of an inch ,english1 the figure in decimals being #jcicga4 ,one foot ,english is equal to #cjd millimetres1 and an inch equals rather more than #be millimetres4 ,the unit in money is the franc1 equal to ninepence-halfpenny ,english4 ,the franc is divided into one hundred parts1 each of which is called a centime2 five centimes are called a sou2 and a sou is rather less in value than a half-penny4 ,footnote #h3 ,donisthorpe v4 ,jowett1 #ahgf2 vide ,law ,report in ,the ,hairdressers' ,chronicle4 ,footnote #i3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,footnote #aj3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,footnote #aa3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,footnote #ab3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,footnote #ac3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,footnote #ad3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,footnote #ae3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,footnote #af3 ,page #aej4 ,footnote #ag3 ,there are 7or used to be7 silk nets made for the purpose1 very strong and durable1 and could be procured where the 8trimmings0 are usually sold4 ,the crown of this net is left rather loose and threaded on a silk cord4 ,the cord is held up1 which gathers the loose meshes together1 when it should all be fastened1 and thus a caul net well fitting the head is formed4 ,footnote #ah3 ,i mention six inches because hair of that length is most convenient for a learner to practise with1 but you will have to knot hair of various lengths1 from the shortest for gentlemen's perukes1 to very long for ladies' wigs4 ,footnote #ai3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,footnote #bj3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,footnote #ba3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,footnote #bb3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,footnote #bc3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,footnote #bd3 ,figs4 #ch and #ci4 ,footnote #be3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,footnote #bf3 ,see ,fig4 #cf1 and remarks thereon4 ,footnote #bg3 ,fig4 #da4 ,footnote #bh3 ,fig4 #db4 ,footnote #bi3 ,see ,fig4 #bi4 ,footnote #cj3 ,see ,chapter ,v4 ,footnote #ca3 ,page #bjb4 ,footnote #cb3 ,a ,treatise on the ,use and ,management of a ,razor1 by ,mr4 ,savigny4 ,footnote #cc3 ,olive-oil 7white ,castile7 soap1 or almond oil soap is here intended4 ,it should be moderately dry when weighed1 next reduced to thin shavings1 and then further desiccated by exposure to warm1 dry air1 but no artificial heat should be employed4 ,by replacing a portion 7say one-third7 of the above with an equal weight of dry1 white tallow soap 7i4e41 curd soap7 the 8lathering0 quality of the essence will be increased4 ,wertheimer1 ,lea ,co41 ,printers1 ,circus ,place1 ,london ,wall4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,advertisements4 ,r4 ,,hovenden ,,sons1 #ca #cb1 ,,berners ,,st41 ,,oxford ,,st41 ,w41 ,,and #ia1 #ic1 #ie1 ,,city ,,road1 ,e4,c41 ,,london4 ,,hair ,,merchants ,,manufacturers ,wholesale ,perfumers1 ,,fancy ,,soap ,,makers ,,and ,,general ,,warehousemen ,,for ,,hairdressers4 ,importers of ,essential ,oils1 ,sponges1 ,french ,pomades ,oils1 ,fancy ,combs1 ,etc4 ,,the ,,largest ,,and ,,most ,,complete ,,stocks ,,in ,,london ,,of ,,manufactured ,,hair1 ,trimmings1 ,partings1 ,ornamental ,hair1 ,,combs ,,in ,,horn1 ,,shell1 ,,rubber1 ,,hair1 ,,tooth1 ,,nail ,,cloth ,,brushes1 ,,cutlery1 ,,mirrors1 ,,hairdressers' ,,tools1 ,,and ,,shampooing ,,requisites4 ,proprietary ,articles ,in ,perfumery ,kept in ,stock or procured at short notice4 ,,no ,,travellers represent the ,firm4 ,their enormous expenses being avoided1 ,r4 ,h4 ,,sons can offer their ,goods from #aj to #bj per cent1 below those ,houses who employ them4 ,,illustrated ,,catalogue ,,post ,,free ,,upon ,,receipt ,,of ,,business ,,card ,,or ,,invoice ,,heading4 ,,established #ahdf4 ,,edwin ,,creer1 ,hairdresser1 ,wig-,maker1 ,manufacturing ,perfumer1 ,,maker ,,of ,,chignons1 ,,twists1 ,,switches1 ,,plaits1 ,,curls1 ,,and ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,,ornamental ,,hair4 #ehi1 ,,commercial ,,road ,,east1 ,,london1 ,e4 ,illustration3 #ehi1 ,,commercial ,,road ,,east1 ,,london1 ,e4 ,dealer in ,combs1 ,brushes1 ,fancy ,goods1 and other ,requisites for the ,toilet4 ,,pomades1 ,,oils1 ,,washes1 ,,perfumes1 ,,powders1 ,,hair ,,dyes ,,and ,,restorers1 ,,etc4 ,illustration ,,artist ,,in ,,hair--,,established #ahdf4 ,,edwin ,,creer1 #ehi1 ,,commercial ,,road ,,east1 ,,london1 ,e41 ,,manufactures ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,,hair ,,jewellery ,,for ,,the ,,trade1 ,rings1 ,brooches1 ,bracelets1 ,watch-,guards1 c41--and ,device-,work of every description4 ,best work guaranteed1 and at the lowest possible prices4 ,no4 #a4 ,hair1 ,gold ,top #bs4 #c;d4 ,no4 #b4 ,all ,gold1 with ,hair ,plait and ,heart or ,shield ,top #fs4 #f;d4 ,no4 #c4 ,albert ,guard1 with ,gold ,mountings #aes4 #f;d4 ,letters of inquiry1 as well as others requesting1 price list and designs1 should enclose a business card1 and a ,,stamp for reply4 ,,terms--,,cash ,,on ,,or ,,before ,,delivery4 ,,hairdressers ,,about ,,commencing ,,business ,as well as those already established1 ,,will ,,find ,,at ,r4 ,,hovenden ,,sons' ,,warehouses ,,the ,,best ,,selection ,,of ,,scissors1 ,,combs1 ,,razors1 ,,brushes1 ,,towels1 ,,shampooing ,,apparatus1 ,and every requisite for the ,trade at ,prices which ,,defy ,,competition4 ,r4 ,,hovenden ,,sons ,hold the largest ,stock of ,human ,hair in the ,kingdom4 ,,patterns ,,matched1 ,and1 except in extraordinary colours1 sent per ,,return ,,of ,,post4 ,,theatrical ,,hair--,a ,,speciality4 ,current ,prices are advertised in ,the ,hairdressers' ,chronicle4 ,,price ,,list ,,post ,,free ,,on ,,application4 ,r4 ,,hovenden ,,sons1 ,,london4 ,r4 ,,hovenden ,,sons' ,seven-,guinea ,complete ,outfit4 s4 d4 #a ,french ,polished ,shaving ,chair #j #ae #f #a ,french ,polished ,shampoo ,stand #b #g #j #a ,marble ,back ,slab for #j #e #j #a ,ebonised ,frame ,mirror1 #cf in4 by #bj in4 #j #ae #j #a ,outside ,projection ,tablet #j #g #j #a ,gas ,stove #j #d #j #a ,tin ,shaving ,pot1 for ditto #j #b #i #a ,buff ,leather ,strop #j #a #j #ab ,turkish ,shampooing ,towels #j #g #j #b ,haircutting ,cloths #j #e #j #b ,shaving ,cloths #j #b #f #b ,aprons #j #b #f #b ,blouses #j #g #j #a ,pair ,curling ,irons #j #a #j #d ,bars ,shaving ,soap #j #a #j #a ,spray ,producer and ,bottle #j #a #f #a ,pair ,saloon ,brushes #j #b #f #a ,shaving ,brush #j #j #h #a ,shaving ,bowl #j #j #f #a ,neck ,brush #j #j #h #a ,box and ,puff #j #j #f #b ,cutting ,combs #j #a #j #b ,razors 7,voogd's7 #j #e #j #b ,pairs ,cutting ,scissors #j #e #j #a ,hone #j #b #f #a ,bottle ,hair ,oil #j #a #h #a lb4 ,violet ,powder #j #j #i #a ,bottle ,bay ,rhum #j #j #h #b ,bottles ,lime and ,glycerine #j #j #f #b ,cosmetics #j #j #d ---- ---- ---- #g #g #j ,these ,goods are always in ,stock1 and may be selected from a great variety4 ,we shall be glad to send estimates for lower or higher priced outfits4 ,r4 ,,hovenden ,,sons1 ,,london4 ,r4 ,,hovenden ,,sons have always in ,stock a large assortment of ,tools and ,fittings suitable for ,board-work4 ,a full ,list will be found in their ,,annual ,,catalogue4 ,,curling ,,irons from #aj;d4 to #b_/ each4 ,,pinching ,,irons from #a_/c to #d_/i each4 ,,crimping ,,irons from #b_/ to #i_/ each4 ,,screws ,,and ,,sticks #a_/ and #a_/f per set4 ,,cards #a_/i1 #c_/f1 #i_/f each4 ,,mounting ,,blocks #d_/f each4 ,,weaving ,,silk #b_/ per oz4 ,,sewing ,,silk #b_/c per oz4 ,,drawing ,,brushes from #f_/f to #aes4 per pair4 ,,gauze ,,hooks1 ,,knotting ,,needles1 ,,wig ,,nets in great variety4 ,r4 ,,hovenden ,,sons1 ,,london4 ,,voogd',s ,,specialities4 ,voogd's ,razors 7,registered7 ,hollow ,ground4 ,these ,razors1 if properly stropped1 will wear for a considerable length of time1 and are strongly recommended for trade use4 ,made with ,square1 ,round1 or ,irish ,points1 in #e sizes1 viz41 in41 in41 in41 in4 and #a in4 ,,price1 any size1 ,black ,handles1 #cjs4 per dozen4 ,,price1 any size1 ,ivory ,handles1 up to in41 #dds4 per dozen4 ,,voogd',s ,,scissors4 ,with ,finger ,rests1 #f1 #g1 and #g ins41 #cbs41 #chs41 and #dds4 per dozen4 ,with ,flat ,shanks4 #f1 #g1 and #g ins41 #bds41 #cjs41 and #cfs4 per dozen4 ,to avoid imitations see that both ,razors and ,scissors are stamped with the ,registered mark1 thus-- ,illustration3 ,,voogd ,dept3 ,r4 ,,hovenden ,,sons1 ,london ,paris4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,transcriber',s ,,notes #a4 ,silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling4 #b4 ,retained anachronistic1 non-standard1 and uncertain spellings as printed4 #c4 ,enclosed italics font in underscores4 #d4 ,enclosed bold font in equals4