,illu/ration3 ,,briti% ,,f9e ,,wilton ,,c>pet ,aft] ! ,ardebit c>pet 7,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum74 ,frontispiece ,,pitman',s ,,common ,,commodities ,,& ,,indu/ries ,,c>pets ,,by ,r4 ,s4 ,,br9ton ,,london ,,sir ,,isaac ,,pitman ,,sons1 ,,ltd41 #a ,,am5 ,,corn]1 ,e4,c4#d ,,ba?1 ,,melb\rne ,,& ,,new ,,york ,,preface4 ,,9 treat+ ( c>pet manufacture1 :i* involves ! employm5t ( looms & o!r ma*9]y ( a complicat$ nature1 ,i 0 confront$ ) ! problem1 h[ f> x 0 necess>y or desirable to expla9 & illu/rate me*anical devices4 ,^u consid]ation1 x seem$ advisable1 hav+ reg>d to ! scope ( ! book1 to avoid z f> z possible bo? descriptions & diagrams ( a me*anical nature4 ,a c]ta9 /&>d ( me*anical intellig5ce is assum$ 9 ! read]2 b ?is "w1 l ! re/ ( ! s]ies1 is int5d$ = ! layman2 & x is impossible to describe & expla9 detail$ me*anical movem5ts except at consid]able l5g? & ) ! aid ( elaborate diagrams4 ,^? :o wi% to /udy ! te*nique ( ! subject 9 detail are ref]r$ to ,mr4 ,fr$ ,bradbury's book1 ,c>pet ,manufacture 7,f4 ,k+ ,sons1 ,ltd41 ,halifax1 #aijd71 :i*1 ?\gh x has n be5 br\ght up to date1 is a classic = ! trade1 z all exp]ts are aw>e4 ,i am indebt$ to him = ! use ( sev]al blocks4 ,i h also to ackn[l$ge ! c\rtesy ( ! ,gre%am ,publi%+ ,co41 ,ltd41 ( ,*&os ,/reet1 ,cov5t ,g>d51 = p]mission to use a numb] ( blocks f _! ,textile ,indu/ries1 :i* conta9s "s admirable *apt]s on ,c>pet ,manufacture4 ,my ?anks are fur!r due to ,! ,times = p]mission to utilise "s contributions ,i made to _! 8,textile ,supplem5t10 publi%$ 9 #aiac2 :ile ,i h receiv$ in=mation & helpful criticism f ,messrs4 ,woodw>d1 ,grosv5or ,co41 ,ltd41 ,messrs4 ,t4 ,a4 ,naylor1 ,ltd41 ,! ,victoria ,c>pet ,co41 n to m5tion colleagues & =em5 ( my own ,company1 ,br9tons ,limit$4 ,= ! hi/orical *apt] ,i am indebt$ to ,mr4 ,a4 ,c4 ,p>ry1 & = p>ticul>s ( ,c>pet ,trades ,unions to ,mr4 ,e4 ,/radl+1 ,mr4 ,ellis ,cr[!r1 & ,mr4 ,t4 ,l9dsay4 ,i am consci\s ( ! possibility ( errors & omissions1 & ,i %\ld be grateful = any intimation ( su*1 ) ! view ( mak+ ! necess>y corrections1 if a fur!r edition %\ld be requir$4 ,r4 ,s4 ,,br9ton4 ,,cr(t ,,h\se1 ,,kidd]m9/]1 #aiai4 ,,cont5ts ,,*ap4 ,,page ,,preface iii ,i4 ,,hi/ory #a ,,ii4 ,,mat]ials #i ,,iii4 ,,dye+ #ac ,,iv4 ,,h&-,,made ,,c>pets #bj ,v4 ,,brussels ,,c>pets #bi ,,vi4 ,,wilton ,,c>pets #dd ,,vii4 ,,axm9/] ,,c>pets #di ,,viii4 ,,*5ille ,,c>pets #fc ,,ix4 ,,tape/ry ,,c>pets #ga ,x4 ,,+ra9 ,,c>pets #hf ,,xi4 ,,design ,,& ,,col\r #ib ,,xii4 ,,/ati/ics #ajd ,,xiii4 ,,employ]s ,,& ,,employ$ #ajg ,,xiv4 ,,conclusion #aai ,,index #abc ,,illu/rations ,,fig4 ,,page ,,briti% ,,f9e ,,wilton ,,c>pet ,frontispiece #a4 ,,turki%1 ,,knot #ba #b4 ,,longitud9al ,,section ,,?r\gh ,,healds1 #cc ,,h>ness1 ,,sley1 ,,& ,,fabric #c4 ,,section ,,( ,,five-,,frame ,,brussels ,,c>pet #ce #d4 ,,section ,,( ,,?ree-,,frame ,,brussels ,,c>pet #cf #e4 ,,& #e;,a4 ,,*lidema ,,squ>e #da #f4 ,,section ,,( ,,five-,,frame ,,wilton #de #g4 ,,section ,,( ,,imp]ial ,,axm9/]--#c-,,%ot #ea #h4 ,,section ,,( ,,axm9/]--#c-,,%ot #eb #i4 ,,sections ,,( ,,axm9/] ,,weaves #ec #aj4 ,,tuft+ ,,me*anism #ee #aa4 ,,*5ille ,,design ,,pap] ,,cut ,,up #fd #ab4 ,,*5ille ,,clo? #fe #ac4 ,,transv]se ,,section ,,%[+ ,,fur ,,ins]t$ #fe #ad4 ,,section ,,( ,,*5ille ,,axm9/] #fg #ae4 ,,design ,,( ,,tape/ry ,,c>pet #gb #af4 ,,design ,,9 ,,fig4 #ae ,,elongat$ ,,z ,,pr9t$ #gc #ag4 ,,pr9t+ ,,drum #gf #ah4 ,,scale ,,& ,,design ,,bo>d ,,comb9$ #gh #ai4 ,a ,,scrap] #hj #bj4 ,,pr9t$ ,,?reads ,,set ,,= ,,w9d+ ,,on ,,to #ha ,,! ,,beam #ba4 ,,fig4 #bj ,,z ,,wov5 #hb #bb4 ,,/ructure ,,( ,,tape/ry ,,c>pet #hb #bc4 ,,m$ium ,,tape/ry ,,c>pet #hc #bd4 ,,tape/ry ,,velvet--#c-,,%ot #hc #be4 ,,tape/ry ,,velvet #hd #bf4 ,,tape/ry ,,velvet--#b ,,%ots ,,9 ,,! ,,gr\nd #hd #bg4 ,,two-,,ply ,,9 ,,w>p ,,& ,,weft #hf #bh4 ,,two-,,ply ,,w>p ,,& ,,weft #hh #bi4 ,,?ree-,,ply ,,w>p ,,& ,,two-,,ply ,,weft #hh #cj4 ,,?ree-,,ply ,,w>p ,,& ,,weft #hi ,,c>pets ,,*apt] ,i ,,hi/ory ,,be=e ! me*anical processes involv$ 9 ! manufacture ( c>pets to-day are describ$1 a %ort sket* ( ! hi/ory ( ! fabric & ! /ory ( its introduction into ?is c\ntry may be ( int]e/4 ,! orig9 ( ! weav]'s loom1 l t ( ! pott]'s :eel1 dates back to ! prehi/oric times4 ,a loom ) its work]s is %[n 9 an anci5t ,egyptian fresco1 ! date ( :i* is reckon$ by antiqu>ians to be ab\t #c1jjj ye>s be=e ! ,*ri/ian ,era4 ,9 ! grottoes ( ,b5ihassan1 bo? sp9n]s & weav]s are %[n1 ! weav]s work+ on clo?s bo? pla9 & ( a *eck$ patt]n2 & bo? p]p5dicul> & horizontal looms are repres5t$4 ,!re 71 h[ev]1 o!r civilisations beside ! ,egyptian2 & ! orig9 ( ! c>pet mu/ be s\ght /ill fur!r to ! ,ea/1 9 places :]e1 9 spite ( ! ebb & fl[ ( conque/s1 x is /ill made at ! pres5t day4 ,m5tion is frequ5tly f\nd 9 anci5t records ( hi/ory ( ri* hang+s1 cov]+s1 f9e clo?s & tape/ries1 g5]ally ! booty ( "s conqu]or2 b x is difficult to tell :e!r "s fabric us$ exclusively z ! c>pet ( to-day is us$ is includ$ 9 ^! li/s4 ,! anci5t equival5t ( ! mod]n c>pet or rug 0 kn[n to ! ,babylonians1 :o 71 accord+ to ,pl9y1 skilful weav]s2 & its manufacture 0 c>ri$ on at an e>ly date among ! ,assyrians & ,p]sians1 9 ,*9a & ,india1 & among ! ,arabs4 ,! orig9al purpose ( ! c>pet 9 ! ,ea/ 0 probably ! same 9 ! beg9n+ z x is !re1 n[1 at ! pres5t day4 ,x 0 us$ to give col\r to ! temple1 z a hang+ = ! t5ts1 a trapp+ = ! saddle1 a sitt+ place = ! gue/1 = a cov]+ ( ! gr\nd on :i* to sleep or pray2 & its manufacture 9 any di/rict impli$ a c]ta9 degree ( civilisation & luxury4 ,! use ( a wov5 floor-cov]+ seems to be indicat$ 9 passages 9 ,hom]2 & ! well-kn[n au?ority1 ,sir ,george ,birdwood1 cites an acc\nt ( a banquet giv5 at ,alex&ria 9 ! ?ird c5tury be=e ! ,*ri/ian ,era by ,ptolemy ,philadelphus1 at :i* ,p]sian rugs 7 spread 9 ! ,k+'s t5t4 ,p]sian c>pets 7 highly valu$1 & 7 export$ to ,greece1 & at a lat] date to ,rome4 ,!mi/ocles1 accord+ to ,plut>*1 8lik5$ a man's disc\rse to a ri* ,p]sian c>pet1 ! beautiful figures & patt]ns ( :i* c be %[n only by spread+ & ext5d+ x out2 :5 x is contract$ & fold$ up1 !y are obscur$ & lo/40 ,! conque/s ( ,alex&] ! ,great1 :i* ext5d$ z f> z ,india1 seem to h made ! use ( ! products ( ! ,ea/]n looms famili> among ! ,greeks4 ,at a lat] date ! conque/s made by ! ,roman ,consuls spread ! arts ( ! ,ea/ /ill fur!r into ,europe4 ,at a lat] p]iod /ill ! tak+ ( ,con/ant9ople by ! ,turks drove _m skilful artific]s to take up _! resid5ce 9 ,italy at ,v5ice1 ,g5oa1 & ,flor5ce1 & at "s t[ns 9 ,france2 & f ^! c5tres c>pets 7 /ill fur!r di/ribut$ ov] ,europe4 ,! ,crusades br\ght ,engl& into t\* ) ! ,ea/2 & specim5s ( c>pet 7 probably introduc$ by return+ knights & _! foll[]s2 b x is ?r\gh ,spa91 a c\ntry :i* acquir$ ! art f ! ,moors1 t !y are fir/ kn[n to h come1 ,que5 ,eleanor ( ,ca/ille & h] suite introduc+ !m into ?is c\ntry on h] m>riage to ,edw>d ,i4 ,illu/rations ( c>pets are %[n 9 pictures ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii2 & 9 ! "t ( ,elizabe? !y 7 probably 9 m g5]al use 9 ,engl& ?an mo/ writ]s on ! subject are accu/om$ to all[2 = direct communication ) ! ,ea/ _h be5 op5$ up by ! fe>less & ent]pris+ trad]s & adv5tur]s ( ^? times4 ,9 ,hakluyt's ,voyages !re are ! foll[+ in/ructions to a trad] ab\t to j\rney to ,p]sia-- 8,9 ,p]sia y %all f9de c>pets ( c\rse ?rumm$ wooll1 ! be/ ( ! _w1 & excell5tly col\r$2 ^? cities & t[nes y mo/ repaire to1 & y mu/ use meanes to le>ne all ! ord] ( ! dy+ ( ^? ?rummes1 :i* are s di$ z nei!r ra9e1 w9e1 nor yet v9eg> c /a9e2 & if y may atta9e to t cunn+ y %all n ne$ to fe>e dy+ ( clo!4 ,= if ! col\r holde 9 y>ne & ?rumme1 x w holde mu* bett] 9 clo?4 ,le>ne y !re to fixe & make sure ! col\r to be giv5 by logge wood2 s %all we n ne$ to buy wood s de>e to ! enri*+ ( our enemies4 ,enquire ! price ( leck>1 & all o!r ?+s belong+ to dy+4 ,if be=e y returne y c\ld procure a s+le good workeman 9 ! arte ( ,turki% c>pet mak+ y %\ld br+e ! arte into ?is ,realme1 & also !reby increase worke to y\r company40 ,hakluyt's praise ( ! ,p]sian c>pets 0 n undes]v$1 = _! manufacture 9 8 "t _h rea*$ a p]iod ( excell5ce z reg>ds design & workman%ip :i* x has be5 f "t to "t ! aim ( mod]n manufactur]s to reproduce1 z f> z ! conditions & requirem5ts ( ! pres5t day p]mit4 ,_m ( ! be/ specim5s 9 ! museums & collections ( ,new ,york1 ,london1 ,vi5na1 & ,p>is are attribut$ to ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies4 ,:5 ,hakluyt wrote !re 0 9 exi/5ce a c>pet at ! ,mosque ( ,ardebil1 9 ,nor?-,we/ ,p]sia1 :i* is n[ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum4 ,! date ( ?is c>pet is #aedj1 & exp]ts agree t x belongs to ! be/ p]iod ( ,p]sian c>pet weav+4 ,!re is1 un=tunately1 no record :e!r ! ef=ts ( ,hakluyt & ! m]*ant adv5tur]s ( 8 "t to obta9 weav]s f ,turkey or ,p]sia 7 successful4 ,c>pets d n f9d a place among ! goods to be especially s\ght aft] by _! ag5ts4 ,z f> back z ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii we read ( ,c>d9al ,wolsey obta9+ c>pets ?r\gh ! ,v5etian ,ambassador2 & 9 t reign ,ri*>d ,%eldon l5t 8 h\se to a weav] nam$ ,ri*>d ,hicks1 :o produc$ among o!r fabrics wov5 maps ( ,worce/]%ire & ,ox=d%ire1 specim5s ( :i* are /ill 9 exi/5ce4 ,9 ,france1 ,h5ry ,,iv gave assi/ance = ! manufacture ( c>pets1 & 9 #afjd !re 0 a /rong guild ( c>pet weav]s2 b x 0 n until ! reign ( ,l\is ,,xiv t ! manufacture 0 reviv$ at ,aubusson & e/abli%$ at ,beauvais4 ,! indu/ry _h ! direct patronage ( ! ,fr5* ,k+1 & "s celebrat$ fabrics 7 made4 ,! ,revocation1 9 #afhe1 ( ! ,edict ( ,nantes1 :i* = a "t _h giv5 protection to ! ,prote/ants ( ,france1 drove a l>ge numb] ( ,fr5* & ,walloon artisans into ,engl& & ,g]many2 & ! sp9n+ & weav+ 7 among ! _m indu/ries 9 ?is c\ntry to be b5efit$ by ?is influx ( skilful work]s4 ,9 #agja ! c>pet weav]s ( ,wilton & ,axm9/] receiv$ a *>t]2 b ev5 at an e>li] date ! manufacture ( c>pets _h be5 c>ri$ on at ^! places4 ,bo? ^! t[ns h giv5 _! names to di/9ct fabrics t are n[ made 9 _m places & c\ntries4 ,c>pet manufacture is no long] c>ri$ on at ,axm9/]1 :]e x fl\ri%$ = ab\t a c5tury2 & o!r places1 l ,fulham1 ,moorfields1 ,exet]1 & ,frome1 :]e e>ly attempts 7 made to e/abli% ! indu/ry1 h long ceas$ to h any connection ) c>pet mak+4 ,ab\t ! ye> #agdj1 ! ,e>l ( ,pembroke br\ght ov] weav]s f ,france & introduc$ into ,wilton ! mak+ ( loop-pile or ,brussels c>pet+4 ,?is 0 foll[$ 9 due c\rse by ! developm5t ( ! cut-pile fabric :i* took its "n f ! place4 ,ab\t ! ye> #agcf ! weav+ ( c>pets seems to h be5 e/abli%$ at ,kidd]m9/]1 a t[n :i* _h be5 connect$ ) ! weav+ ( broadclo? & 8fl[]$ /uff0 f z f> back z ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,:5 ! art 0 fir/ introduc$1 :at is n[ call$ ,scot* or ,kidd]m9/] c>pet 0 made on ! old h&-loom2 ! process ( weav+ 0 sl[ & labori\s1 & requir$ a man & a boy to ea* loom4 ,9 #agde1 ,mr4 ,broom />t$ ! manufacture ( ,wilton & ,brussels c>pets 9 ! t[n1 br++ ov] weav]s f ,t\rnai4 ,9 #aggb ! numb] ( c>pet looms 9 ! t[n 0 #bej1 & ! trade ext5d$ to o!r places 9 ! ,nor? ( ,engl& & ,scotl&4 ,9 #ahcj !re 7 ne>ly #a1ajj looms 9 ,kidd]m9/]1 & a consid]able home & =eign trade _h be5 e/abli%$4 ,a ,p>liam5t>y ,pap] ( t date gave ! consumption ( wool 9 ! weav+ ( c>pets z "o tw5ty-eigh? ( ! :ole quantity ( wool produc$ 9 ! ,k+dom4 ,9 #ageg1 ,mr4 ,?omas ,moore />t$ ! manufacture ( c>pets 9 ,london1 & obta9$ a premium f ! ,society ( ,arts = ! be/ imitation ( ,turkey c>pets4 ,z f> back z #aggh !re 0 a trade to "s ext5t at ,kilm>nock4 ,! orig9al fabric 0 ! two-ply ,scot* or ,kidd]m9/] c>pet4 ,9 #ahbd1 an eng9e] ( ,kilm>nock introduc$ ! ?ree-ply ,scot* c>pet1 a fabric ( ?ree lay]s ( diff]5t col\rs1 ea* ( :i* is br\ght to ! surface accord+ to design2 :ile ab\t ! same "t ,brussels & ,velvet pile 7 also introduc$ into ,scotl&4 ,9 #ahca1 ! ,tru/ees = ,manufactures 9 ,scotl& aw>d$ ! prize = f\r ,turkey c>pets1 ! fir/ ( t type made 9 ,scotl&4 ,9 ! la/ qu>t] ( ! eighte5? c5tury ! inv5tions ( ,arkwright _h be5 appli$ to ! wooll5 & wor/$ indu/ries4 ,b\lton & ,watts _h put _! /eam eng9e on a practical foot+1 :ile ,c>twright _h made a p[]-loom = ! weav+ ( calico1 & _h also pat5t$ a wool-comb+ ma*9e4 ,9 ,france1 ,jacqu>d 0 p]fect+ a device :i*1 :5 adapt$ to ! c>pet loom1 0 to play an important "p 9 ! developm5t ( ! indu/ry4 ,f ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 progress1 9 spite ( occasional *ecks due to g5]al economic conditions1 0 well ma9ta9$2 & by ! ye> #ahbe ! ,jacqu>d me*anism 0 beg9n+ to replace1 bo? 9 ,engl& & ,scotl&1 ! old & complicat$ h>ness ( ! h&-loom4 ,a great increase ( trade foll[$ its adoption4 ,two o!r important inv5tions1 :i* _h a great influ5ce 9 ext5d+ ! scope ( ! trade1 7 develop$ 9 ! ?irties ( ! la/ c5tury4 ,! "o 0 ! developm5t ( ! tape/ry process ( pr9t+ & weav+ c>pets by ,mr4 ,:ytock1 ( ,ed9burgh & ,glasg[4 ,?is process enabl$ a great] range ( col\rs to be us$ ?an 0 previ\sly possible1 & also all[$ a *eap] fabric to be produc$4 ,aft] initial opposition1 ! process 0 develop$ 9 ,scotl&2 & f9ally1 ab\t ! ye> #ahdb1 ,halifax became ! c5tre ( ! ,tape/ry weav+4 ,firms 9 o!r t[ns 7 lic5s$1 & ! process 0 s widely tak5 up t 9 #ahej !re 7 #a1bii ,tape/ry h&-looms at "w 9 ,engl& & ,scotl&1 z aga9/ #b1ejj h& ,brussels looms4 ,! o!r notable inv5tion 0 t ( ,mr4 ,james ,templeton1 ( ,glasg[1 :o 9 #ahci pat5t$ a novel device = ! manufacture ( pat5t ,axm9/] c>pets by a two-fold process4 ,?is also admitt$ ( a l>ge range ( %ades4 ,! inv5tion has s9ce be5 consid]ably develop$1 & has contribut$ l>gely to ! ext5sion ( ! c>pet indu/ry4 ,f small beg9n+s1 e>ly 9 ! n9ete5? c5tury ! manufacture ( c>pets _h gr[n 9 ! c\rse ( #ej ye>s to an important indu/ry 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 & 0 well e/abli%$ 9 ,philadelphia & o!r c5tres4 ,bo? 9 ,engl& & ,am]ica ! mo/ able inv5tors _h turn$ _! att5tion to ! problem ( weav+ by p[]4 ,mr4 ,colli]1 :o _h be5 successful 9 weav+ l95 by p[]1 produc$1 9 conjunction ) ,messrs4 ,crossley1 ( ,halifax1 a loom = ! weav+ ( ,tape/ry & ,brussels4 ,! problem _h1 h[ev]1 be5 solv$ by ,mr4 ,e4 ,p4 ,bigel[1 9 ,am]ica1 & ! ,bigel[ pat5t 0 acquir$ by ,messrs4 ,crossley4 ,! introduction ( ! p[]-loom creat$ a great *ange 9 ! indu/ry4 ,! transition p]iod f h&-weav+ to p[]-weav+ 0 a p]iod ( anxiety to manufactur]s & ( privation to ! old h&-loom weav]s2 b ! situation 0 ev]y:]e fac$1 & f ! fir/ introduction ( p[]-loom weav+ ev]-increas+ quantities ( c>pets h be5 wov51 bo? = home consumption & = export4 ,9 ! sev5ties ( ! la/ c5tury ano!r /ep =w>d 0 ! rem>kable inv5tion ( ! ,moquette or ,royal ,axm9/] loom by ,alex&] ,smi? ,sons1 ( ,yonk]s1 ,n4,y4 ,?is loom 0 introduc$ to ,engl& by ,messrs4 ,tomk9son ,adam1 ( ,kidd]m9/]2 & ! inv5tion has caus$ a /ill fur!r ext5sion ( ! c>pet trade bo? at home & abroad4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,mat]ials ,,c>pet manufacture is a complicat$ matt]1 & involves ! use bo? ( v>i\s +5i\s ma*9es & ( a div]sity ( mat]ials1 su* z wool1 cotton1 jute1 tw9e1 oil1 pap]1 wire1 col\rs1 size1 etc4 ,we ne$ only conc]n ourselves1 h[ev]1 ) ! m important ( ^! mat]ials1 :i* are y>ns made ( wool1 9 ! =m ( wor/$ or wooll51 :i* are almo/ inv>iably us$ = ! surface ( a c>pet2 & y>ns made ( o!r fibres1 :i* are us$ = w>p & weft4 ,! wool us$ = c>pet y>ns is diff]5t f t requir$ = ei!r clo? or hosi]y4 ,x ne$ n be s f9e & s(t1 b x %\ld be /rong1 & 9 ! case ( wor/$ y>n1 ( fairly long /aple1 :ile natural lu/re adds to ! value4 ,a rec5t e/imate ( ! s\rces ( wool consum$ by ! c>pet trade allott$ #i p] c5t4 to ! ,briti% ,empire1 z mu* z #dj p] c5t4 to ,russia1 & ! rema9d] to o!r c\ntries4 ,/rong ,briti% wools1 & ! co>s] /apl$ fibres f ,au/ralia & ,new ,zeal&1 =m ! bulk ( ! fir/ category1 :ile ,egyptian & ,ea/ ,indian wools1 :i* are 9 especial dem& = wooll5 y>ns1 are responsible = a l>ge proportion ( ! la/4 ,( o!r mat]ials t c be & are us$ = ! surface ( c>pets1 m5tion %\ld fir/ be made ( silk4 ,h&-tuft$ c>pets are sometimes made ( silk bo? 9 ,asia & 9 ,europe1 & beautiful effects are obta9$2 b ! co/ on ! "o h&1 & ! nature ( ! y>n on ! o!r militate aga9/ its be+ a v suitable mat]ial = a floor cov]+4 ,c>pets made ) a silk pile possess a wond]ful %e51 especially if h&-wov51 s t ! tufts lie ov] at a consid]able angle2 b ! pile possesses no resili5ce & suff]s m f soil+ 9 we> ?an a wool-pile c>pet ( a correspond+ quality4 ,mohair is us$ occasionally = h&-tuft$ c>pets ) excell5t effect1 & x is (t5 employ$ to great advantage 9 self-col\r$ he>? rugs1 = :i* !re is a regul> dem&4 ,! extreme /iffness ( ! fibre & its dis9cl9ation to felt1 h[ev]1 cause ! y>n to be a r intractable mat]ial = c>pet manufacture4 ,x possesses1 moreov]1 ! special *>act]i/ic ( consid]able d5sity4 ,9 o!r words1 x is heavy = its volume1 s t a y>n ( a giv5 ?ickness w weigh mu* m ?an a simil> y>n ( ano!r fibre1 ) ! result t all mohair fabrics are exp5sive comp>$ ) ^? made ( wool or o!r y>ns4 ,jute is employ$ = ! surface z well z = ! re/ ( ! c>pet at ,dundee2 & horse-hair ,brussels c>pets are made1 :i* are extremely durable1 b some:at h>%1 & n v decorative4 ,y>n spun f c[-hair is utilis$ sometimes = ! surface ( c>pets ( ! ,brussels or ,dut* type1 b p]haps m (t5 = fill+ w>ps2 :ile cotton has be5 tri$ = ! =m] purpose also1 b )\t v satisfactory results1 ow+ to ! lack ( resili5ce 9 its fibre4 ,if to ! cobbl] !re is no?+ l lea!r1 s to ! c>pet manufactur] !re is no?+ l wool4 ,y>n made ( wool seems to be ! ideal mat]ial = ! surface ( a c>pet4 ,wool is capable ( be+ spun easily into y>n ( any requir$ c\nt or ?ickness2 & su* y>n c be dy$ to any %ade1 & wov5 into any fabric4 ,:5 wov51 x w reta9 its appe>ance & /& reasonably h>d we> bett] ?an mo/ simil> textile mat]ials4 ,its liability to ! attacks ( mo?s may be urg$2 b1 aft] all1 c>pets are made z mu* = use z = ornam5t1 & x is well kn[n t ! clo!s mo? only works :5 he is undi/urb$4 ,( subsidi>y y>ns1 p]haps cotton is ! mo/ important4 ,?is is us$ = a l>ge proportion ( ! *a9 w>ps ( all k9ds ( c>pet+4 ,x is also occasionally us$ = weft1 & 9 its l[e/ qualities = /uff]s4 ,flax y>n1 m g5]ally kn[n 9 ! trade z l951 is us$ 9 consid]able quantities1 especially z *a9s = ,axm9/]1 & z weft = ,wilton & ,brussels c>pets4 ,its comb9$ /r5g? & pliancy1 c\pl$ ) a c]ta9 degree ( /iffness1 make x a mo/ useful fibre4 ,jute & hemp1 hav+ reg>d to ! total production ( all k9ds ( c>pet1 are probably us$ 9 great] quantities ?an any o!r y>n4 ,jute is *eap & /rong1 & is invaluable z a fill+ to give weight & h&le to a fabric4 ,x has ! disadvantage ( be+ liable to decay if x becomes wet1 & 9 ?is /ate1 if us$ 9 too l>ge a proportion1 ( caus+ ! dis9tegration ( a c>pet4 ,( o!r mat]ials t are sometimes us$ = ! back+ ( c>pets1 m5tion mu/ be made ( ramie1 :i* has be5 tri$ z a sub/itute = l95 y>n1 :i* x resembles a good deal 9 "*1 be+ /rong & pliant1 b inela/ic4 ,! co/1 h[ev]1 has prov$ to be prohibitive4 ,v>i\s mixtures ( jute & wool1 or ( cotton & wool1 h be5 tri$1 & h _! values z comb9+ weight ) resili5ce4 ,pap] y>n1 ?\gh seldom z a matt] ( fact "u its own "n1 has be5 tri$ z a sub/itute = l951 cotton1 & jute1 z weft1 *a91 & /uff]4 ,x c be spun or twi/$ into a pres5table y>n 9 a v>iety ( c\nts2 & a y>n t w weave & weave well4 ,dur+ ! w>1 ow+ to _! %ortage ( o!r fibres1 ! ,g]mans us$ consid]able quantities ( pap] y>n = weav+ clo?s1 webb+1 h>ness1 equipm5t1 & ev5 c>pets1 :i* no d\bt s]v$ _! purposes tol]ably well4 ,x 01 h[ev]1 a developm5t pursu$ r f necessity ?an f *oice4 ,!y _h pl5ty ( wood1 :i* we h n2 & !y lack$ ! wool1 cotton1 & jute4 ,pap] y>n _c s]i\sly compete 9 price ) jute1 nor 9 value ) cotton1 = use 9 c>pets4 ,x is1 moreov]1 p>ticul>ly liable to det]ioration f dampness4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,dye+ ,,all wor/$ & wooll5 y>ns us$ = ! surface ( c>pets1 ) ! exception ( ^? :]eon ! col\rs are pr9t$1 z 9 ,tape/ry c>pets1 are dy$2 & fa/ & accurate dye+ is ( c>d9al importance 9 c>pet manufacture4 ,practically all wor/$ y>ns1 & "s wooll5 y>ns1 h[ev]1 are suppli$ to c>pet manufactur]s by ! sp9n]s 9 oil or 9 grease2 t is to say1 /ill impregnat$ ) ! oil :i* has be5 put into !m 9 ! process ( sp9n+4 ,! free+ ( ! y>n f ?is oil by wa%+ is a necess>y prelim9>y to dye+1 inasmu* z ! pres5ce ( oil w\ld prev5t ! dye liquor p]meat+ ! wool fibres4 ,sc\r+ is effect$ by soap & hot wat]1 g5]ally by ma*9es ( "o type or ano!r4 ,! y>n 9 ske9s is sometimes ?r[n ^u swifts1 :i* revolve ov] a vat ( suds4 ,! ske9s are c>ri$ ?r\gh ! liquor & well r9s$ by ! rotation ( ! swifts4 ,ano!r me?od employ$ is to pass ! ske9s1 ti$ toge!r 9 a long *a91 ?r\gh vats 9 :i* !y are /eep$ 9 ! suds1 & ?r\gh roll]s :i* squeeze !m m or less dry4 ,or ! ske9s may travel along a s]ies ( aprons1 und]nea? a %[]1 betwe5 roll]s1 or ?r\gh b[ls ( suds4 ,! precise me?od adopt$ is n ( great importance provid$ t ! sc\r+ solution has full opportunity to op]ate ^u ! wool fibres1 s t ! y>n is deliv]$ ultimately free ( oil & ( soap4 ,= ?is reason1 a f9al ba? ( pure wat] is desirable4 ,! solv5ts pr9cipally us$ are ammonia1 alkali1 & an alkal9e soap ( "s k9d4 ,cotton-se$ oil soap is g5]ally reg>d$ z "o ( ! mo/ suitable4 ,! sc\r$ y>n is n[ ready = dye+1 & passes1 )\t be+ fully dri$1 to ! /icks or frames ( ! h&-vat or dye+ ma*9e4 ,! ?ree ma9 consid]ations to be kept 9 view 9 ! dye+ ( wor/$ & wooll5 y>ns = c>pets are levelness ( col\r1 accuracy ( mat*+1 & fa/ness ( col\r to light4 ,! second & ?ird are matt]s :i* conc]n ! skill ( ! head dy] & ! quality ( ! dye/uffs :i* he employs2 ! fir/ dep5ds ^u ! h&l+ ( ! y>n by ! op]ative 9 ! h& vat or dye+ ma*9e2 & ! ess5tial factor1 ap>t f ! prop] temp]ature ( ! dye-liquor1 is motion4 ,dye+ by h&1 al?\gh sup]s$$ almo/ entirely by ma*9e-dye+1 is /ill employ$ 9 "s cases1 p>ticul>ly :]e only small quantities are requir$4 ,! dye-vat is ( wood1 & %\ld be a well-made piece ( jo9]y to )/& ! we> & te> incid5tal to its use4 ,r\nd ! bottom on ! inside is fitt$ a tube ( copp] or "s acid-resi/+ metal1 p]=at$ ) small holes1 ?r\gh :i* /eam is pass$ to heat up ! wat]4 ,! head dy] weighs out ! dye/uffs e/imat$ to produce a %ade a fraction bel[ ! requir$ %ade1 s z to admit ( f9al adju/m5t aft] te/+4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 applies equally to h& or ma*9e-dye+4 ,= h& vats1 ! ske9s ( sc\r$ y>n are hung on a set ( poles1 :i*1 :5 fill$1 are plac$ on brackets above ! vat4 ,:5 ! dye/uff has be5 put 91 & ! wat] br\ght to ! requir$ temp]ature1 a pair ( workm51 ea* hold+ "o end ( ! poles1 /&+ on ea* side1 sets !m on ! edge ( ! vat & lets ! free ends ( ! ske9s s9k d[n into ! liquor4 ,:5 all ! poles are 9 place1 ! op]ators />t on ! pole at "o end1 &1 rais+ ea* ske9 9 turn1 draw x ov] a few in*es1 s t ! "p :i* has hi!rto rema9$ outside ! liquor is n[ imm]s$4 ,:5 ! ske9s on "o /ick are f9i%$1 t /ick is pu%$ a little way along & ! next is treat$ simil>ly4 ,:5 ! :ole set is done1 ! op]ation is repeat$4 ,! ess5ce ( ! treatm5t is to keep ! y>n mov+4 ,if ! ske9s 7 all[$ to rema9 9 ! same place1 ev5 aft] ! fir/ mov+1 !re w\ld be 8/ick m>ks0 at ! po9t :]e ! ske9 re/$ on ! pole1 because ! liquor w\ld n h _h z mu* access to ?is place z to ! re/ ( ! ske9s4 ,aft] an h\r or s1 or :5 suffici5t "t has be5 all[$ = ! dye/uffs to p]meate ! y>n fibres1 ! poles are lift$ on to ! brackets1 & a ske9 is tak5 out & submitt$ to ! head dy] = mat*+4 ,! head dy] w comp>e x ) 8 /&>d1 &1 9 ! case ( dye+ to mat* a cut-pile or tuft$ fabric su* z ,wilton or ,axm9/]1 he w probably make a tuft f a ?read ( ! sample ske91 s z to comp>e ! %ade ( ! cut ends z well z ( ! outside ( ! ?read4 ,he w !n make ! necess>y corrections or additions to ! dye-ba? if ! exact %ade has n be5 rea*$1 & ! op]ation w be cont9u$ until he is satisfi$4 ,! poles are !n f9ally lift$1 remov$ f above ! vat to a horse2 ! y>n is !n /ripp$ f ! poles & pass$ to ! hydro-extractor prior to go+ on to ! /ove or dry+ ma*9e4 ,! object ( dye+ ma*9es1 ( c\rse1 is to effect ! same treatm5t ( ! y>n z is done by h& z j describ$1 b 9 a m exp$iti\s way4 ,a ma*9e c1 9 fact1 d ne>ly twice z mu* z a man1 & 9 a m regul> mann]4 ,t is to say1 "o man c m9d a ma*9e ( ! same capacity z a h& vat :i* requires two m52 b x is desirable1 if n1 inde$1 necess>y1 t he %\ld h assi/ance 9 load+ & unload+4 ,giv5 ! necessity = keep+ ! y>n 9 motion :ile imm]s$ 9 ! dye liquor1 ! problem ( ! design] ( dye ma*9es has be5 to f9d ! mo/ simple & effective way ( do+ ?is1 keep+ 9 view ! ne$ = conv5i5ce 9 prep>+ ! y>n = ! ba?1 dropp+ x 91 & remov+ x4 ,dye+ ma*9es are ( two ma9 types3 ^? :i* move ! y>n ?r\gh ! liquor1 & ^? :i* move ! liquor ?r\gh ! y>n4 ,ea* type has 9 common a frame ( "s k9d to c>ry ! dye-/icks on :i* ! y>n is hung2 & practically e type ( frame is provid$ ) /icks to support ! ske9s at "o or bo? ends4 ,( ! =m] & e>li] type ! movem5t ( ! frame c>ry+ ! y>n 9 ! liquor may be effect$ 9 v>i\s ways4 ,! frame 9 "o ma*9e is revolv$ 9 ! vat ^u a circul> axis2 9 ano!r ! revolution is comb9$ ) a rock+ motion2 9 a ?ird a v]tical movem5t is obta9$ by means ( a hydraulic pump fitt$ ) an automatic rev]s+ me*anism4 ,9 ea* case ! problem ( mov+ ! y>n 9 ! liquor is complicat$ by ! m9or problems ( mov+ ! y>n on ! /icks s z to avoid /ick m>ks1 & ( rais+ & l[]+ ! frame1 or ( /ripp+ x 9 position1 if irremovable4 ,! =m] is solv$ by "s worm or rat*et contrivance = automatically turn+ ! dye-/icks1 & ! latt] by cranes or tackle1 or1 z 9 "o ( ! makes j m5tion$1 by a hydraulic pump4 ,all ! ma*9es ( ?is ma9 type h _! advantages & disadvantages1 z !y h _! support]s & critics2 b !re c be little d\bt t ! balance ( op9ion among c>pet y>n dy]s is gr[+ prepond]at+ly t[>ds ! second type ( ma*9e2 t 9 :i* ! liquor is mov$ ?r\gh ! y>n4 ,9 ?is type1 ! frame c>ry+ ! y>n is dropp$ into ! vat1 :i* is !n cov]$ ) a lid4 ,! liquor is !n caus$ to circulate 9 a /rong /ream ?r\gh\t ! vat by propell]s fix$ at ! head4 ,! motion ( ! propell]s c be rev]s$ if desir$4 ,if bo? top & bottom /icks are us$ 9 ! frame1 !y are plac$ at a less di/ance ap>t ?an ! l5g? ( ! ske91 s t1 ! ske9 be+ completely imm]s$1 ! y>n is c>ri$ free ( ! /ick by ! fl[ ( ! liquor1 access is giv5 to all ! wool fibres1 & ! dang] ( /ick m>ks is avoid$4 ,! *ief m]it ( ?is ma*9e1 h[ev]1 is ! consid]able economy t is effect$ 9 /eam consumption by ! r$uc$ size ( ! vat1 z well z by ! lid4 ,! vat ne$ only be made j l>ge en\gh to conta9 ! ske9s dropp$ into x1 :]eas 9 ! o!r type ( ma*9e x mu/ be made l>ge en\gh to all[ = ! ske9s to be mov$ ab\t 9 x4 ,!re is1 !re=e1 less wat] to be heat$ = a giv5 weight ( y>n4 ,! lid avoids loss ( heat by radiation1 :i* is inevitable ) ! op5 top types4 ,! *emi/ry & ! sci5ce ( dye+ wor/$ & wooll5 y>ns is a subject t c only be dealt ) adequately at consid]able l5g?4 ,"h a brief ref]5ce mu/ suffice4 ,wool fibre is a sub/ance simil> 9 nature to horn1 ) a scaly surface4 ,x is hygroscopic1 be+ capable ( tak+ up a l>ge am\nt ( wat] comp>$ to its own bulk1 & :5 moi/5$ & heat$ x t5ds to s(t5 & swell4 ,^! *>act]i/ics make wool v susceptible ( be+ dy$4 ,x is said to h an aff9ity = c]ta9 col\r+ matt]s1 b ?is phrase s]ves to cov] a want ( agreem5t among *emi/s1 z to :e!r dye+ is actually ( a *emical or a me*anical nature4 ,x is probably bo?4 ,9 any case1 wool is easy to dye comp>$ ) silk1 cotton1 or o!r fibres4 ,natural dye/uffs1 su* z logwood1 madd]1 fu/ic1 co*9eal1 & indigo1 are practically obsolete s f> z dye+ = c>pet y>ns is conc]n$2 & ! mod]n dy] has a l>ge range ( anil9e & aliz>9e col\rs to *oose f4 ,z is pretty g5]ally kn[n1 ! production ( dye/uff f coal t> 0 orig9ally a ,briti% inv5tion1 b its developm5t pass$ into ! h&s ( ! ,g]mans1 ^u :om1 be=e ! w>1 ! dye consum]s ( ! c>pet trade1 z ( o!r trades1 7 v l>gely dep5d5t4 ,necessity & ent]prise h rem$i$ ?is deplorable /ate ( affairs1 :i* ne$ nev] recur4 ,! coal t> dyes n[ be+ produc$ by ,briti% dye manufactur]s are tru/wor?y & satisfactory1 & !y %\ld improve bo? 9 quality & quantity z "t goes on4 ,= ! purposes ( ! c>pet y>n dy]1 at any rate1 ! anil9es & aliz>9es n[ obta9able are inf9itely pref]able to any natural or vegetable dyes1 be+ easi] to use1 m reliable1 & fa/] to light4 ,! ord9>y me?od ( prep>+ ! dye-ba? into :i* ! wor/$ or wooll5 y>n is to be dipp$ 9 ! mann] t has be5 describ$1 is z foll[s4 ,! wat]1 9 :i* f #b to #d p] c5t4 ( sulphuric acid & f #e to #aj p] c5t4 ( ,glaub]'s ,salts is mix$1 is br\ght up to ab\t #agj;,f42 ! dye/uff is add$1 ab\t #a to #e p] c5t41 accord+ to ! dep? ( %ade requir$4 ,! p]c5tages are reckon$ ^u ! weight ( ! y>n to be dy$4 ,! y>n is !n ent]$1 & ! wat] is br\ght to ! boil1 & kept lightly boil+ z long z requir$ to obta9 ! %ade4 ,!re are "s delicate %ades1 h[ev]1 & "s s5sitive dye/uffs1 = :i* ! y>n requires to be ent]$ cool1 & ! wat] to be br\ght sl[ly to ! boil4 ,! dy$ y>n passes f ! vat to ! hydro-extractor1 a l>ge copp] pan ) p]=at$ sides1 :i*1 revolv+ at a great spe$1 causes ! wet ske9s by c5trifugal =ce to press aga9/ ! circumf]5ce & squeeze out a l>ge proportion ( ! wat] !y conta94 ,! ske9s are !n tak5 out1 bundl$ r\ghly toge!r1 & are ready = convey+ to ! dry+ room or dry+ ma*9e4 ,dry+ ! y>n c be effect$ simply by hang+ ! ske9s on poles 9 a room ?r\gh :i* /rong curr5ts ( air are =c$ by revolv+ fans4 ,?is me?od1 h[ev]1 dep5ds too mu* ^u ! wea!r1 ev5 if ! air is caus$ to pass ov] /eam-heat$ coils on ent]+ ! room4 ,a bett] alt]native is to expose ! y>n hung on poles 9 a heat$ *amb]4 ,! mo/ c]ta9 & satisfactory me?od1 h[ev]1 is a dry+ ma*9e ( "s type1 :i* enables ! ske9s to be f$ into x at "o end1 to pass ?r\gh a curr5t ( heat$ air1 & to be deliv]$ dry at ! o!r4 ,! factors 9 ?is case1 ! heat ( ! /eam coils & ! spe$ ( ! ma*9e1 are kn[n & c be controll$2 s t ! dy] c rely ^u gett+ a c]ta9 quantity ( y>n satisfactorily dri$ 9 a c]ta9 "t4 ,9 ! ord9>y type ( ma*9e1 ! ske9s are c>ri$ horizontally betwe5 two wire aprons2 b alt]natively !y c be c>ri$ v]tically ^u hooks or poles4 ,! y>n1 col\r$ & dri$1 is n[ ready to g to ! y>n /ore1 or direct to ! w9d+-room4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,h&-,,made ,,c>pets ,,! *>act]i/ic feature ( a c>pet1 z di/+ui%$ f o!r floor cov]+s1 is ! comb9ation ( a surface compos$ almo/ always ( wool ) a wov5 f\ndation1 :i* may be ( v>i\s mat]ials4 ,! ma9 classification ( c>pets is betwe5 ^? :i* are made by h& & ^? :i* are made by ma*9e2 & ( bo? ^! classes !re are _m sub-divisions4 ,h&-made c>pets are ! olde/ type ( ! fabric1 &1 com+ f ! ,ea/1 are ! hi/orical p>5ts ( all mod]n c>pets4 ,?is k9d ( c>pet is made to-day 9 ! ,unit$ ,k+dom1 on ! ,cont95t1 & 9 ! ,ea/ 9 almo/ exactly ! same mann] 9 :i* x has be5 made by ! ,ori5tals = sev]al hundr$ ye>s4 ,! pr9ciple is extremely simple4 ,! w>p ?reads1 or *a91 are w\nd on two horizontal beams1 betwe5 :i* !y are /ret*$ v]tically4 ,! beams are c>ri$ by upright po/s on :i* !y c revolve1 ! space betwe5 ! po/s det]m9+ ! wid? ( ! rug or c>pet4 ,! weav]s sit side by side 9 front1 ! c>pet z x is wov5 be+ gradually w\nd on to ! l[] beam1 & ! w>p correspond+ly unw\nd f ! upp] beam4 ,! y>n = ! pile is cut up into tufts ab\t #b 94 9 l5g?1 & is knott$ r\nd two w>p ?reads1 tuft by tuft1 accord+ to ! pap] design1 :i* is atta*$ 9 front ( ! weav]4 ,z ea* r[1 or "p ( a r[ is f9i%$1 two weft ?reads are put 91 "o 9 ! %$ =m$ betwe5 ! front & back halves ( ! *a91 & a second 9 an alt]nate %$1 :i* is =m$ by ! weav] pull+ =w>d ! back half ( ! *a9 tempor>ily 9 front ( ! front half4 ,! second weft is put 9 /raight1 ! fir/ "o loose1 zig-zag1 or v&yk$1 s z to fill up ! back ( ! c>pet1 & to avoid ! t5d5cy t[>ds lat]al contraction4 ,! weft is beat5 d[n into its place by a heavy =k or beat]4 ,?is int]lock+ ( w>p & weft ) ! tuft =ms ! weave ( ! c>pet1 & has be5 imitat$ m or less 9 all me*anically wov5 c>pet fabrics4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #a ,,turki% ,,knot ,!re are two diff]5t k9ds ( knot employ$1 ! ,ghiordes or ,turki%1 & ! ,s5ne or ,p]sian4 ,9 c>pets made ) ! =m]1 ! tuft ( y>n is knott$ r\nd a pair ( w>p ?reads 9 su* a mann] t ! two ends ( y>n come betwe5 ! two w>p ?reads r\nd :i* ! tuft is loop$1 & consequ5tly two pile ends alt]nate ) e two w>p ?reads4 ,9 ,p]sian c>pets ! tuft is knott$ 9 su* a way t "o end ( ! tuft obtrudes betwe5 ea* w>p ?read4 ,?is me?od ( weav+ r5d]s possible a clos] texture ?an ! ,turki% knot2 :ile c>pets ( suitable design & f9] pit* are (t5 wov5 ) a runn+ ?read loop$ r\nd ! f+] ( ! weav]1 & !n cut1 in/ead ( by individual tufts4 ,?is latt] sy/em gives m wa/e b quick] weav+4 ,) bo? ,turki% & ,p]sian knots ! tuft ends d n /& up at "r angles to ! plane ( ! fabric1 b lie ov] obliquely t[>ds ! />t+ end ( ! c>pet4 ,?is natural slant ( ! pile1 :i* results 9 pres5t+ to ! eye & ! foot ( ! us] ( ! c>pet p>tly ! ends & p>tly ! sides ( tufts1 is a v *>act]i/ic feature ( h&-made c>pets1 & "o :i* _c be completely imitat$ by any class ( ma*9e-made fabrics4 ,ano!r k9d ( h& weav+ is ! tape/ry me?od1 :]e9 ! weft col\rs1 w\nd ^u wood5 ne$les1 are ?read$ r\nd & betwe5 ! w>p ends1 leav+ a flat or slightly ribb$ surface1 n unlike t ( an +ra9 c>pet4 ,! abs5ce ( a tuft$ pile does n make ?is a luxuri\s c>pet2 b x enables a f9e pit* to be employ$1 & ! ri*e/ & mo/ delicate effects ( design & col\r to be obta9$4 ,c>pets ( ?is type h long be5 made at ,les ,gobel9s1 ,p>is1 ,aubusson1 & ,beauvais1 9 ,france1 & ,t\rnai1 9 ,belgium4 ,! "w is sl[ & highly skill$1 & ! product is naturally v exp5sive4 ,!re is no bett] k9d ( c>pet ?an ! c>pet made by h&2 ?\gh ?is is f> f imply+ t all h&-tuft$ c>pets are sup]ior to all ma*9e-made ones4 ,b !re is no me?od ( comb9+ ! pile ) ! f\ndation s good z ! knot2 & x _c be completely imitat$ by ! clev]e/ p[]-loom inv5t$4 ,! h&-tuft$ c>pet possesses an individuality1 ev5 9 its faults1 :i* no product ( a ma*9e c atta91 & :i*1 aft] all1 is an attribute to a "w ( art4 ,m ( ! s\l ( ! work] has pass$ into x ?an ! cla%+ metal ( a p[] loom w p]mit to filt] into its product4 ,h&-made c>pets h a fur!r advantage 9 _! adaptability to requirem5ts4 ,a s+le c>pet1 = in/ance1 c be made to any specifi$ %ape1 size1 design1 col\r1 & quality4 ,x is possible to produce 9 "o piece c>pets ( oval1 circul>1 or ,l-%ap$ =m1 or to con=m to irregul> curves & angles4 ,qualities are num]\s1 b may be said to v>y ma9ly betwe5 ab\t #i & #djj tufts to ! squ>e in*4 ,! av]age ,european h&-made c>pet w n run to m ?an f #af to #cj4 ,z reg>ds mat]ials1 ! tuft y>n w v>y f a heavy wooll5 = co>se pit*es to a f9e wor/$ = ! clos]1 :ile silk is occasionally employ$1 produc+ a c>pet ( great] lu/re1 b less resili5cy4 ,! ,ea/]n weav]s are fond ( us+ wooll5 ( suitable c\nts = bo? w>p & weft1 ?\gh a cotton w>p is q common4 ,flax or l951 h[ev]1 is m commonly employ$ by ! ,european mak]2 & ! comb9ation ( /r5g? & s(tness 9 ?is mat]ial seem to make x almo/ ideal = ! purpose4 ,european h&-tuft$ c>pets may be consid]$ z ^u a diff]5t foot+ f ,asiatic4 ,inde$1 ! c>pet deal] w\ld h>dly reg>d ! two--at any rate 9 pre-w> days1 w\ld h>dly h reg>d$ !m--z mutually competitive4 ,! ma9 localities = ?is bran* ( ! indu/ry are ,maff]sdorf1 9 ,au/ria1 ,holl&1 ,donegal1 ,c>lisle1 & ,wilton4 ,b1 al?\gh 9 ea* ( ^! places c>pets ( *>act]i/ic ,ea/]n design & col\r+ are produc$1 _! /aple trade has always la9 r along ! l9es ( specialities4 ,!y h cat]$ r = ar*itects1 decorators1 individuals1 or public bodies1 :o 7 inspir$ by "s p>ticul> idea1 & :o c\ld af=d to pay = x1 ?an = ! ord9>y consum]4 ,to make /&>d c>pets = /ock1 unless x 7 "s crimson ,yapraks1 w\ld be q exceptional4 ,! reason = ?is1 & ! relation ( ,european & ,asiatic h&-made c>pets w be allud$ to lat]4 ,at any rate ! fact rema9s1 t ! ,european h&-tuft$ c>pet trade1 ?\gh x has be5 responsible = "s sup]b productions 9 a v>iety ( /yles--& 9 ?is connection due cr$it mu/ be giv5 to ! enemy mak] allud$ to--yet x nev] atta9$ a position ( importance adequate to its und\bt$ m]its4 ,x is q impossible to deal effectively 9 a limit$ space ) s l>ge a subject z t ( ,ori5tal c>pets & rugs4 ,books h be5 writt5 on ! hi/orical & arti/ic aspects alone4 ,"s brief notes mu/ suffice4 ,x is int]e/+ to recall t ! inhabitants ( ,p]sia & ,asia ,m9or1 :o 7 ! e>lie/ mak]s ( c>pets1 7 nomads4 ,!y wove _! t5ts1 decorat$ ) tribal signs & symbols1 & !y wove ! curta9s or kelims = great] com=t & ornam5t4 ,rugs & c>pets foll[$ 9 natural sequ5ce4 ,! prim>y object ( ^! 0 to cov] ! rais$ bank ( e>? at ! end ( ! t5t on :i* ! *ief sat4 ,o!r rugs & mats 7 plac$ r\nd ! t5t = ! use ( ! family or ( visitors4 ,besides ^!1 !re 7 ! pray] rugs = _! special purpose1 :i* 7 c>efully /or$ :5 n requir$ = use4 ,:5 ! dwell+-place develop$ f a t5t to a h\se1 a rais$ seat ( hon\r cov]$ by a rug took ! place ( ! bank ( e>?2 & divans on ea* side ( ! room1 = :i* long rugs or runn]s 7 requir$1 accommodat$ ! family & call]s4 ,weav+ 01 & /ill is1 l>gely a family affair1 9 ! ,ea/4 ,! wom5 & girls sit 9 front ( ! loom & "w "u ! sup]vision ( ! matri>*4 ,obvi\sly ! degrees ( skill employ$ w v>y2 & ?is leads to "s ( ! irregul>ities 9 ,ea/]n c>pets1 :i*1 h[ev]1 are reg>d$ r z beauties ?an z blemi%es by ! ,we/]n buy]4 ,x is n to be impli$1 h[ev]1 t all ,ori5tal c>pets are /ill ! product ( family or tribal indu/ry4 ,we/]n me?ods h p5etrat$ ev5 into ! 8un*ang+ ,ea/03 organisation ( ! indu/ry has be5 set up2 & c>pet deal]s & import]s' syndicates 9 ,new ,york1 ,london1 & ,p>is h _! ag5ts 9 ! ,ea/1 & ev5 control _! own factories1 to :i* !y s5d _! ord]s4 ,?is may be ?\ght to detract f ! romance ( ! ,ori5tal c>pet1 b x does n appe> to h affect$ adv]sely ! progress ( ! indu/ry or ! m]it ( its products2 & !re is no reason :y x %\ld1 s long z ! ,we/]n buy]s are m5 ( ta/e & exp]i5ce1 & d n seek to impose uncong5ial ideas ^u ! ,ea/]n work]1 :i* might t5d to ! de/ruction ( individuality & local feel+4 ,x is a common fallacy1 t ! y>ns ( ,ori5tal c>pets are dy$ solely ) vegetable dyes1 & t ^? dyes are intr9sically sup]ior to anil9e & aliz>9e dyes1 su* z are employ$ = y>ns = ma*9e-made fabrics4 ,! latt] h be5 us$ = _m ye>s n[ by ,european c>pet manufactur]s1 n because !y are *eap] ?an vegetable dyes1 b because !y are easi] to use1 m accurate = mat*+ purposes1 & fa/] to light4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 good & bad syn!tic dyes1 b ! be/ are immeasurably sup]ior to dyes made f plants1 b>ks1 & b]ries4 ,?is fact has long be5 recognis$ by ^? :o control ! production ( ,ori5tal c>pets1 = ! y>ns = :i* anil9e & aliz>9e dyes are n[ ext5sively employ$4 ,! subject ( dye+ naturally leads on to t ( doctor+ or 8fak+10 :i* is commonly adopt$ ) a l>ge proportion ( ,ea/]n c>pets4 ,! object is tw(old3 to s(t5 ! orig9al brightness ( ! col\rs1 or to give an appe>ance ( age2 & to obta9 a gloss :i* ! wool does n naturally possess4 ,?is is g5]ally done by ! collectors or ag5ts1 & n by ! p :o weave ! c>pets4 ,x is (t5 kn[n by ! innoc5t "n ( wa%+1 & consi/s 9 treat+ ! surface ) "s *emical su* z *lor9e wat]1 or glyc]9e1 foll[$ by iron+ ) a hot iron4 ,x c h>dly be suppos$ t ?is treatm5t does n detract to "s ext5t f ! life ( ! c>pet2 b ?is consid]ation appe>s to be outweigh$ by t ( ! m attractive appe>ance4 ,x has be5 /at$ t x is n an uncommon practice to expose a c>pet to use 9 ! baza> or /reet ) ! object ( enhanc+ its comm]cial value by giv+ x an artificial appe>ance ( age4 ,x is to be hop$1 h[ev]1 t ?is v insanit>y me?od ( fak+ is r>e2 b ^? :o wilfully give pref]5ce to a c>pet because x is dirty & fad$1 & app>5tly old1 d n des]ve too mu* sympa?y4 ,!re are v>ieties ( ,asiatic c>pets f> too num]\s to be m5tion$ "h4 ,!y diff] widely 9 orig91 design1 col\r1 & quality1 ea* t[n or di/rict hav+ its *>act]i/ic patt]n & ornam5t1 :i* is foll[$ ) m or less p]si/5ce4 ,! f9e/ c>pets1 bo? 9 patt]n & quality1 are ! ,p]sian1 ! wor/ are "s ( ! ,indian1 :i* are co>se 9 texture & devoid ( arti/ic m]it4 ,9 betwe5 are ! /&>d ,turkeys1 :i* are 9 great & /eady dem& all ov] ,europe4 ,ref]5ce has be5 made to ! v diff]5t position occupi$ by ,asiatic & ,european1 or at any rate ,briti% h&-tuft$ c>pets4 ,practically id5tical 9 manufacture1 !y are 9 diff]5t categories comm]cially4 ,! ,ea/]n c>pet trade is a l>ge "o1 heal?y1 well organis$1 & pr(itable4 ,! ,briti% h&-tuft$ indu/ry is artificial1 & ma9ta9s a prec>i\s exi/5ce4 ,x may n be consid]$ q outside ! scope ( ?is *apt] to exam9e ! reason = ?is position4 ,! "q is 9 reality purely an economic "o4 ,briti% h&-tuft$ c>pets _c be manufactur$ on a basis ( co/ t enables !m to compete 9 price ) ! import$ ,ea/]n c>pet4 ,! "q ( design & col\r may be ignor$ = ! mom5t2 quality = quality1 ! dome/ic product _c meet its ,ori5tal competitor on equal t]ms 9 ! m>ket1 despite ! fact t x comes /raight f ! manufactur]1 :ile ! o!r has probably _h to be> collectors' & :olesale deal]s' pr(its4 ,! reason lies1 ( c\rse1 9 ! diff]5t /&>d ( liv+4 ,! co/ ( ! raw mat]ials is n sub/antially diff]5t 9 ,great ,brita9 & 9 ,asia ,m9or4 ,b ! ,briti% c>pet has got to pay = /eam-heat+1 gas & wat]1 & electric light1 & a m lib]al /&>d ( diet1 ?an suffices ! frugal ,arm5ian or ,kurd4 ,! wom5 & girls :o weave ,ea/]n c>pets are n protect$ by factory inspectors & welf>e sup]9t5d5ts4 ,& ! diff]5ce 9 co/ ( production due to ^! v diff]5t conditions is v consid]able2 :ile 9 view ( ! increase ( wages dur+ ! w>1 & ! /eadily advanc+ /&>d ( com=t among ,briti% artisans1 x seems likely to be ev5 m 9 ! future4 ,"u ^! circum/ances1 x is ju/ifiable to ask :e!r x is fair & wise to all[ ?is competition to cont9ue4 ,dur+ ! w> ! import ( ,ori5tal c>pets has be5 prohibit$1 & x _c be claim$ t ! results h be5 disa/r\s4 ,! /ock ( ,ori5tal c>pets exi/+ 9 ! c\ntry :5 ! prohibition 0 initiat$ has *ang$ h&s at /eadily increas+ prices4 ,9 o!r words1 ! p :o want$ ! c>pets ke5ly en\gh h got !m1 & h _h to pay h&somely = !m4 ,:y %\ld n ?is prohibition1 or alt]natively a high import duty1 be ma9ta9$8 ,no "o w\ld suff] except ! ,turk1 ab\t ^: f9ancial welf>e we ne$ n p]turb ourselves1 & possibly ! semi-,european middleman & ag5t4 ,! bona fide deal] 9 ,ori5tal c>pets1 locat$ 9 ,great ,brita91 w\ld be able to conv]t 8 capital & 8 te*nical k t[>ds ! build+ up ( a big ,briti% h&-tuft$ indu/ry2 & 9 a few ye>s we %\ld see 9 private h\ses1 hotels1 & clubs1 in/ead ( ! ,asiatic product1 = :i* our money has be5 s5t out ( ! c\ntry1 real ,briti% h&-made c>pets1 :i* w\ld h be5 manufactur$ "u ideal conditions1 & = good wages4 ,& !re is no reason 9 ! _w :y su* c>pets %\ld n equal or surpass 9 quality & arti/ic m]it ! f9e/ productions ( ! ,ea/4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,brussels ,,( ma*9e-made c>pets1 t :i* naturally dem&s ! fir/ m5tion is ! ,brussels c>pet1 :i* 0 ! fir/ k9d to be wov5 9 ?is c\ntry by ! aid ( a ,jacqu>d1 a patt]n-select+ me*anism to :i* allusion w be made lat]4 ,brussels is a loop-pile fabric1 consi/+ ( a /rong wov5 f\ndation1 compos$ ( l951 jute1 & cotton y>ns1 toge!r ) t portion ( ! wor/$ y>n :i* is n utilis$ on ! surface to =m ! patt]n4 ,! patt]n itself is =m$ on ! surface by diff]5tly col\r$ loop$ ?reads ( wor/$ y>ns4 ,! "* ( ! fabric l5ds itself to patt]ns well-def9$ 9 design & col\r4 ,! smoo?1 g5tly-ribb$ surface gives a clean & neat1 b n a luxuri\s effect2 & ! c>pet is g5]ally m suitable = small & m$ium-siz$ rooms & simple furni%+ s*emes1 ?an = bold or ambiti\s effects4 ,! numb] ( %ades available is also limit$4 ,! processes ( manufacture are comp>atively few & simple4 ,! y>n is receiv$ f ! sp9n] 9 grease1 t is1 /ill conta9+ ! oil t 0 put into ! wool = ! purpose ( sp9n+1 & 9 ske9s4 ,wor/$ sp9n]s supply a l>ge v>iety ( c\nts & twi/s ( y>n = ,brussels & ,wilton c>pets1 :i* ne$ n be p>ticul>is$4 ,z a normal ,brussels y>n we may take #afs1 #b #c2 a ?read %>ply twi/$ 9 ! d\bl+1 & loosely 9 ! re-d\bl+1 runn+ ab\t #ajj y>ds to ! ounce4 ,! y>n %\ld be spun f wool ( a mod]ately long /aple4 ,9 ! dye-h\se x is fir/ sc\r$1 to get rid ( ! oil1 :i* w\ld int]f]e ) ! dye+1 & !n dy$4 ,f ! dye-vat ! y>n is tak5 to ! hydro-extractor1 or w9ce1 :]e a l>ge proportion ( ! moi/ure is elim9at$ by c5trifugal =ce4 ,! ske9s ( dy$ y>n are !n dri$1 ei!r by be+ hung on poles & expos$ to a curr5t ( w>m air1 or by be+ pass$ ?r\gh a me*anical dry]1 :i* normally consi/s ( a l>ge *amb] ( wood & iron1 ?r\gh :i* ! y>n is c>ri$ by an apron1 or pair ( aprons1 :ile expos$ to /reams ( hot air propell$ by fans4 ,f ! dry+ room or dry+ ma*9e1 ! y>n passes to ! w9d+ room1 to be w\nd on to bobb9s4 ,! w9d+ frame consi/s ( a s]ies ( pulleys set on a %aft4 ,opposite ea* pulley or drum is a swift on :i* ! ske9 is adju/$1 ! end ( ! y>n f ! ske9 be+ l$ on to ! body ( ! empty bobb91 :i* is held aga9/ & rotat$ by ! pulley1 ! face ( ! pulley be+ a little less ?an ! space betwe5 ! flanges ( ! bobb94 ,?is bobb91 call$ ! creel bobb91 because x goes into ! creel frames ( ! loom1 has a face ( #b 94 & a flange diamet] ( #c 94 ,! creel bobb9s1 ea* ( :i* :5 fully w\nd w conta9 ab\t #a_/c lb4 ( y>n1 are !n tak5 to ! creel frames at ! back ( ! loom4 ,= a be/ five-frame ,brussels c>pet1 five sets ( #bef or #bfj bobb9s w be requir$4 ,^! five sets are plac$ 9 ea* ( ! five creel frames1 ea* bobb9 be+ free to revolve sl[ly on a creel peg1 & s release its y>n z requir$4 ,ea* ( ! #a1bhj or #a1cjj ends ( y>n is l$ ?r\gh to ! front ( ! loom1 be+ ?read$ fir/ individually ?r\gh an eyelet 9 ! h>ness1 & !n1 along ) ! o!r ends ( y>n t belong ) x1 ?r\gh a re$ ( ! sley4 ,! body & back ( ! c>pet is provid$ = normally by two w>p beams1 ! *a9 & ! /uff]4 ,! *a9 consi/s ( twice z _m ends ( cotton z !re are re$s 9 ! sley4 ,?us1 if ! pit* is #bef1 !re w be #bef re$s1 or re$ spaces 9 ! #bg 94 wid? ( ! sley 79 practice ! sley is made a little wid] ?an ! c>pet is to be wov572 & !re w be #eab ends ( cotton *a9 9 ! same wid?1 two to ea* re$ space4 ,! /uff] beam consi/s normally ( z _m ends z !re are re$ spaces4 ,! /uff] w>p is ( jute1 bump1 or cotton y>n4 ,! object ( ! *a9 is to =m1 9 comb9ation ) ! weft1 ! wov5 base ( ! fabric2 all ! re/ is ei!r surface or back4 ,! weave is effect$ by ! *a9 ends be+ ?read$ ?r\gh eyelets m\nt$ on two heald-frames or ge>s1 :i* rise alt]nately 9 su* a way z to all[ ! %uttle1 c>ry+ ! weft1 to be %ot ?r\gh ! %$ or op5+ ?us =m$4 ,! purpose ( ! /uff]1 or dead w>p1 is m]ely to give body or weight to ! fabric1 & x is n ess5tial if !re is en\gh body provid$ by ! re/ ( ! w>p4 ,! /uff] ends are also c>ri$ on eyelets 9 a ge> frame1 b are n divid$ l ! *a91 & rema9 practically 9 ! middle ( ! fabric4 ,bo? *a9 & /uff] beams lie betwe5 ! creel frames & ! ma9 "p ( ! loom4 ,_! sl[ unw9d+ is op]at$ automatically :ile ! loom is runn+4 ,! h>ness consi/s ( a set ( #a1cjj cords1 c>ry+ ! mails or eyelets ?r\gh :i* ! wor/$ is ?read$1 kept taut by a weight at _! l[] ends1 & connect$ ) ! ,jacqu>d me*anism above4 ,! ,jacqu>d 7! inv5tion ( ,joseph ,m>ie ,jacqu>d1 ( ,lyons7 is an +5i\s device = select+ & rais+ ! ?reads requir$ to =m ! patt]n4 ,! ,jacqu>d pr9ciple 9 v>i\s =ms is 9 use ?r\gh\t ! textile trades1 & ne$ n be describ$ 9 detail "h4 ,! ess5tial feature ( x is ! comb9ation ( p]=at$ pap] or c>d ) ne$les or pegs 9 su* a way t ! blank 7or1 x may be1 ! p]=ation7 9 ! c>d causes ! h>ness c>ry+ a c]ta9 ?read1 or set ( ?reads1 to rise z requir$4 ,! op]ation ( ! ,brussels loom may n[ be describ$4 ,! ends ( wor/$ y>n f ! creel bobb9s hav+ be5 drawn ?r\gh ! eyes 9 ! h>ness1 & ! *a9 & /uff] ends ?r\gh ! eyes 9 ! healds1 all are drawn ?r\gh ! sley 9 su* a way t !re w be 9 ea* re$-space five ends ( wor/$1 two ( cotton *a91 & "o ( /uff] w>p4 ,all ends are n[ made fa/ to ! brea/ roll] at ! front ( ! loom1 & kept taut by weight+ ! w>p beams1 & by hang+ small hook$ weights on to ea* ?read ( wor/$ close to ! bobb9 9 ! creel frame4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b ,,longitud9al ,,section ,,?r\gh ,,healds1 ,,h>ness1 ,,sley1 ,,& ,,fabric ,a1 ,/uff] w>p2 ,b1 ,wor/$ w>ps2 ,c1 ,*a92 ,j1 ,comb]bo>d2 ,k1 ,mail2 ,l1 ,l+o2 ,h1 ,healds2 #a to #f1 ,h>ness ,:5 ! loom is runn+1 ! ,jacqu>d lifts "o wor/$ ?read 9 ea* re$1 ?us =m+ a %$1 "u :i* ! wire is introduc$ f ! side4 ,imm$iately bel[ ! wire n[ lies ! body ( ! fabric1 consi/+ ( ! f\r frames ( wor/$ 9 ea* c\rse1 :i* are n requir$ to =m ! patt]n1 ! /uff] w>p1 & "o half ( ! cotton *a94 ,bel[ ! body ( ! fabric is a l[] %$ =m$ by ! o!r half ( ! cotton *a91 & ?r\gh ?is ! %uttle passes1 c>ry+ ! weft1 at ! same "t z ! wire is be+ ins]t$4 ,!n ! la!1 :i* has be5 ly+ back to all[ ! pass+ ( ! %uttle & ! entrance ( ! wire1 comes =w>d ) ! sley1 & beats up ! wire & ! la/ %ot ( weft aga9/ ! brea/-plate ( ! loom & ! la/ "p ( ! wov5 fabric4 ,at ! same "t ! ,jacqu>d all[s ! h>ness c>ry+ ! ends select$ = ! la/ la% to drop back on to a level ) ! o!rs1 & ! ge>s c>ry+ ! cotton *a9 beg9 to *ange4 ,next1 ! la! goes back aga92 "o half ( ! *a9 is br\ght up to =m a %$1 "u :i* & ov] ! re/ ( ! ?reads ! %uttle passes back1 ?us effectively ty+ 9 ! wor/$ ?reads :i* are loop$ ov] ! wire4 ,mean:ile ! la/ wire ( ! set 7( ab\t #cj7 :i* has mov$ =w>d z ! fabric is wov51 is drawn out by a hook1 & c>ri$ back = ins]tion "u ! next %$ ( wor/$4 ,a numb] ( wires is us$ s z to avoid ! risk ( ! loops be+ pull$ flat by ! weight on ! y>n or ! /ra9 ( ! h>ness or sley4 ,*a9s & /uff]s are g5]ally col\r$ & siz$1 ! y>n be+ sl[ly w\nd f bobb9s or *eeses on a frame or /&1 pass+ ?r\gh a tr\gh ( col\r$ />*+ mat]ial1 ov] a /eam-heat$ cyl9d]1 or a s]ies ( pipes1 on to an iron flang$ beam4 ,! weft1 :i* is normally ( l95 y>n1 is also g5]ally col\r$ & siz$1 & is us$ :il/ /ill damp4 ,! col\r+ c]ta9ly adds to ! appe>ance ( ! c>pet1 & ! siz+ adds /iffness & h&l+1 ?\gh1 ap>t f ?is1 & f ! fact t x is expect$ by ! deal]1 x is d\btful :e!r x is ( any advantage1 except 9 ! *eap] grades1 :]e less y>n is us$4 ,brussels & ,wilton c>pets are describ$ z be+ ( five1 f\r1 or ?ree frames1 accord+ to ! numb] ( sets ( creel bobb9s c>ry+ wor/$ w>p ?reads4 ,ea* frame w g5]ally be compos$ ( ?reads all ( "o col\r2 b an enhanc$ col\r effect is (t5 obta9$ by "o or m ( ! frames be+ 8plant$40 ,?is means t wor/$ ?reads ( two or m col\rs are arrang$ side by side 9 ! same frame 9 gr\ps1 9 accordance ) ! design4 ,if1 = in/ance1 ! design conta9s a rose1 = ! petals ( :i* a frame ( p9k y>n is to be us$1 !n ! col\ri/ or weav]1 by a judici\s selection & arrangem5t ( bobb9s1 c add to ! col\r effect by %ad+ ! petals f light to d>k2 or1 aga91 a fl[] may be col\r$ blue 9 "o "p ( ! design & gold 9 ano!r4 ,skilfully us$1 ?is device makes a ?ree-frame look l a f\r1 or a five-frame l a six1 b x mu/ be us$ ) discretion & ) due reg>d to ! design1 or disfigur+ & tell-tale /ripes w ensue4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c ,,section ,,( ,,five-,,frame ,,brussels ,,c>pet ,a ,a1 ,*a92 ,b1 ,pile w>p2 ,c1 ,/uff] w>p ,be/ ,brussels has be5 tak5 z an example 9 describ+ ! process ( manufacture1 b a good _m o!r qualities are1 or at lea/ h be51 made4 ,be/ is #bef pit*1 beat5 up #i to ! in*1 b extra qualities are made up to #aa p] in*1 :i* gives an excell5tly close & ev5 surface4 ,f9] ?an ?is 9 pit* or beat-up x has n be5 f\nd practicable to g4 ,l[] qualities are made 9 #bcf & #bad pit*1 & ev5 d[n to #ahj1 ) beat-ups runn+ d[n to #f or #f p] in*1 & a framage ( ?ree or two4 ,9 ! co>se/ qualities1 h[ev]1 !re is always ! t5d5cy to 8gr910 t is1 = ! weft & body ( ! c>pet to be expos$ betwe5 ! loops ( ! pile1 unless ! co>s5ess is comp5sat$ by ! employm5t ( a ?ick] pile y>n or a high] wire4 ,?is is1 9 fact1 ! case ) a class ( ,brussels t has be5 manufactur$ ext5sively by "s mak]s 9 rec5t ye>s1 :]e ! y>n is spun f l[ wool or c[-hair1 & is a good deal heavi] ?an ! ord9>y ,brussels wor/$ c\nts4 ,?is fabric is almo/ entirely conf9$ to pla9s & /ripes1 ?\gh occasionally two frames are us$1 & a simple patt]n effect produc$4 ,x is a good we>+ c>pet1 & suitable = (fices & mode/ purses4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d ,,section ,,( ,,?ree-,,frame ,,brussels ,,c>pet ,a1 ,*a92 ,b1 ,pile w>p2 ,c1 ,/utt] w>p2 ,e1 ,weft ,! fact is1 h[ev]1 t ! dem& = all qualities ( ,brussels c>pet+ has fall5 (f /eadily dur+ ! pa/ few ye>s2 & ! reasons = ?is are /rong & w\ld seem likely to be p]man5t4 ,brussels has suff]$ f ! competition ( ,axm9/] on ! "o h&1 & ,tape/ry on ! o!r4 ,brussels is1 un=tunately1 an uneconomic fabric 9 its manufacture1 inasmu* z1 9 a five-frame = in/ance1 = e l5g? ( wor/$ t appe>s on ! surface1 f\r times z mu* is hidd5 9 ! body ( ! fabric1 &1 except 9 s f> z x acts z fill+1 is wa/$4 ,a ,tape/ry c>pet1 z w be expla9$ lat]1 avoids ?is wa/e1 & c !re=e be produc$ ) an equally good surface z ,brussels1 & at a l[] co/4 ,we ignore = ! mom5t ! *>act]i/ic defect ( ,tape/ry c>pets4 ,! *eap] ,axm9/]1 aga91 & to "s ext5t ! *eap] ,*5ille ,axm9/] z well1 h l>gely sup]s$$ ,brussels1 ow+ to ! fact t !y c be sold at almo/ ! same price1 :ile (f]+ a m luxuri\s effect ) _! cut pile surface & _! l>g] range ( col\rs4 ,!re are "s deal]s1 moreov]1 :o av] t ! manufactur]s ( ! *eap] qualities ( ,brussels h !mselves to blame = ! decreas$ dem&1 because ^! qualities 7 n satisfactory 9 we>1 & 9 p>ticul> 7 liable to 8spr\t40 ,spr\t+ is ! t5d5cy ( ! loops 9 ! pile ( a ,brussels c>pet to be pull$ out ?r\gh su* ext]nal ag5cies z a *air leg1 a boot nail1 a rubb] heel1 or ! claw ( a dog or cat2 ?\gh1 inde$1 compla9ts seem (t5 to h be5 fram$ z if on ! assumption t spr\t+ 0 a natural prop]ty ( ! c>pet simil> to t ( its vegetable namesake4 ,/ill1 ! mak] has _h to admit t *eap] qualities are m liable to ! disease ?an bett] ones1 & p]haps 8 be/ retort has be5 t he 0 long borne d[n 9 price & press$ to make *eap] qualities1 & t ^? :o dem& !m mu/ n compla9 too mu* if !y d n get all !y expect4 ,/ill1 :5 all is said1 ) all its limitations1 a good ,brussels is an excell5t c>pet4 ,x has a clean surface :i* does n h>b\r du/1 & if ! same c also be said ( ! ,+ra9 c>pet1 ,brussels has ! extra resili5cy af=d$ by ! loop$ pile4 ,if its col\rs are few1 !y are en\gh to give ?\s&s ( effective v>iations1 suitable = almo/ any k9d ( design2 & ! comp>ative clos5ess ( its pit* makes its patt]ns neat & adaptable4 ,a well-made ,brussels c>pet w we> _m ye>s4 ,rev]t+ to ! processes ( manufacture1 ! roll ( c>pet goes f ! loom to ! measur+ table1 :]e x is measur$ by h& or ma*9e be=e pass+ to ! f9i%+ or 8pick+0 room4 ,"h x is fir/ dri$ by pass+ ov] a /eam-heat$ cyl9d]1 or1 9 "s places1 by be+ loop$ ov] a s]ies ( rails 9 a w>m *amb]4 ,!n ! back ( ! c>pet is pick$2 t is1 ! sup]flu\s mat]ial1 if any1 is remov$ & defects rem$i$4 ,! roll is !n pass$ ?r\gh a %e>+ ma*9e1 provid$ ) a rapidly revolv+ %aft set ) spiral blades1 :]e ! surface is bru%$ & v lightly %orn1 to remove loose & project+ fibres4 ,! surface ( ! c>pet !n is inspect$ by ! pick]s1 :o m5d any faults left f ! weav+4 ,_! "w is sup]vis$ & *eck$ by ! pass]s4 ,at ?is /age1 "s manufactur]s pass _! ,brussels c>pets1 p>ticul>ly ! *eap] qualities1 ?r\gh a press+ ma*9e1 9 :i* heavy pressure on ! loop$ pile is ex]t$ by roll]s1 ! object be+ to obta9 bett] cov]1 & to prev5t gr9n+4 ,x is que/ionable1 h[ev]1 :e!r ! process is ( any real b5efit to ! c>pet1 z x t5ds to impair ! h&le ( ! fabric & ! resili5cy ( ! pile4 ,! f9al /age 9 ! f9i%+ dep>tm5t is ! roll+ & measur+1 :i* is done me*anically1 aft] :i* ! roll is ticket$1 pap]$1 & cord$1 & passes on its j\rney to ! pack+ room1 c>pet room1 or w>eh\se1 z ! case may be4 ,a digression seems necess>y "h on ! subject ( bread? c>pets1 ,cairo or ,*lidema squ>es4 ,orig9ally1 c>pet+ 0 only made 9 body or fill+ #bg 94 wide1 & bord] #bb or #ah 94 wide1 & 9 rolls or pieces ( ab\t #ej y>ds2 & if a bord]$ c>pet 0 requir$1 #ae ft4 by #ab ft41 ! deal] w\ld cut x up f ! pieces1 us+1 say1 f\r bread?s ( fill+ ea* #ab ft4 long1 & en\gh bord]1 yd4 wide1 to g all r\nd1 ) mitr$ jo9ts at ! corn]s4 ,!re 7 sev]al objections to ?is me?od1 :i* is1 ( c\rse1 /ill necess>ily employ$ 9 bord]$ c>pets ( unusual sizes4 ,x involves a ?ick & awkw>d seam at ! mitres1 :]e ! bord] has to be cut & turn$ "u2 x is wa/eful1 z odd-%ap$ bits ( bord] are b\nd to be left ov]2 & x is in>ti/ic1 inasmu* z ! figures 9 ! bord] nev] mat* p]fectly at ! mitre4 ,la/ly1 9 ,wiltons & 9 "s ,axm9/]s1 x causes false %ad+1 because1 ! pile naturally lean+ a little 9 "o direction1 & n be+ p]fectly v]tical1 ! bord] w only tone p]fectly ) ! body on "o side ( ! c>pet4 ,on ! ?ree o!r sides ! light w /rike ! pile at a diff]5t angle f t at :i* x /rikes ! pile ( ! body1 & give a diff]5t effect4 ,9 #ahfc1 a c>pet 0 manufactur$ at ,kidd]m9/] = pres5tation to ! late ,k+ ,edw>d ,,vii1 !n ,pr9ce ( ,wales1 on ! occasion ( 8 m>riage4 ,9 view ( ! natural desire to produce an article wor?y ( ! ev5t & ( ! indu/ry1 x 0 recognis$ t no tr\ble & exp5se %\ld be sp>$2 & a c>pet 0 design$ & wov5 9 su* a way z to obviate ! defects enum]at$ above4 ,! c>pet 0 exhibit$ publicly & ar\s$ mu* admiration4 ,x is curi\s1 h[ev]1 to note t x 0 n until ab\t tw5ty ye>s lat] t ! new pr9ciple began to be g5]ally adopt$ by c>pet manufactur]s4 ,! delay 9 utilis+ ! idea 0 no d\bt due to recognition ( ! heavy exp5se involv$ 9 additional design+ & c>d /amp+1 & ( ! loss ( production1 & also to ! abs5ce ( any sev]e competition f ,ori5tal & o!r seamless c>pets4 ,! device consi/$ simply 9 design+ & /amp+ n two b five p>ts ( ! :ole c>pet3 ! fill+1 ! bord] at ea* side includ+ ! corn] piece1 & ! bord] at top & bottom4 ,:51 z is almo/ inv>iably ! case1 ! wid? ( ! bord] is less ?an #bg 941 ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! wid? & #bg 94 is /amp$ 9 body1 s t1 = example1 an outside bread? conta9+ #ah 94 ( bord] & #i 94 ( body is wov5 9 a #bg 94 loom4 ,?is bread?1 ( c\rse1 also conta9s at ea* end ! corn] piece1 & #i 94 ( ! end bord]4 ,! inn] bread?s ( ! c>pet w h #ah 94 ( bord] at ea* end1 & fill+ 9 betwe51 wov5 s z to mat* on to ! fill+ & bord] ( ! bread?s on ea* side4 ,if w be readily se5 t 9 ?is mann] ! diff]5t bread?s ( a c>pet c be wov5 consecutively on ! same loom1 & t a h>moni\s effect z reg>ds bo? design & surface c be ensur$4 7,see ,figs4 #e & #e;,a47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #e #e;,a ,,*lidema ,,squ>e ,! sy/em has "o or two m9or limitations4 ,! wid? ( ! c>pet mu/ be "s multiple ( #b ft4 #c 941 & ! mat*+ ( ! side bord]s ) ! corn] pieces c only be p]fect at c]ta9 l5g?s4 ,aga91 ! l9e ( ! seam is n conceal$ by co9cid+ ) ! inn] edge ( ! bord]2 &1 f9ally1 ^! bread? squ>es are m tr\blesome & exp5sive to make & h&le at e /age ?an piece goods4 ,inde$1 manufactur]s w\ld be ju/ifi$ 9 *>g+ a l>g] diff]5ce ( price betwe5 squ>es & pieces ( ! same quality ?an _m ( !m d4 ,9 spite ( ! exp5se & loss ( production involv$1 ! device prov$ on ! :ole a real boon bo? to ! mak] & consum] ( c>pets1 & 0 soon] or lat] adopt$ by practically all manufactur]s employ+ #c-d wide looms4 ,x plac$ ^? :o utilis$ x 9 a bett] position to compete ) ,ea/]n c>pets1 & x has !reby contribut$ 9 no small degree to ! arti/ic developm5t ( ! c>pet trade4 ,inde$1 x may almo/ be said to h sav$ ! life ( ! n>r[ loom1 9 view ( ! rem>kable evolution & consequ5t competition ( ! wide loom1 to :i* fur!r ref]5ce w be made lat]4 ,9 rec5t ye>s x has be5 turn$ to a notable developm5t 9 ! art ( c>pet mak+2 ! production ( m$allion bread? squ>es4 ,?is involves ! ex]cise ( ! greate/ +5uity & skill on ! "p ( ! design]1 heavy exp5se 9 respect ( c>d-cutt+1 & ! greate/ c>e 9 weav+ & f9i%+4 ,:5 complet$1 a m$allion squ>e is a triumph ( te*nique4 ,! numb] ( sizes available is obvi\sly limit$2 b a c>pet ( ea* size is absolutely p]fect 9 design1 mat*+ ev]y:]e1 z well z if made labori\sly by h&1 in/ead ( be+ ! product ( ma*9]y & bra9s4 ,com+ back once m to ! f9al /ages ( f9i%+1 ?\gh ! roll ( c>pet+1 body1 bord]1 or /air1 is complete & ready = ! m>ket :5 x is roll$ & pap]$1 ?is is n ! case ) ! bread? squ>e1 :i* has s f> be5 treat$ 9 ! same way4 ,! squ>e1 or s]ies ( squ>es1 :i* are /ill 9 a cont9u\s roll1 are cut up into _! prop] l5g?s1 mat*$1 & sort$4 ,!y are !n pass$ to ! sew+ room1 to be made up into complete c>pets4 ,h& sew+ has be5 sup]s$$ 9 mo/ factories by me*anical sew+1 by h& or electric p[]1 = :i* ,messrs4 ,s+] supply a v effici5t ma*9e4 ,9 ! l>g] p[] ma*9e made by ?is h\se1 ! bread?s to be sewn toge!r are clipp$ face to face ) flu% edges1 & /ret*$ 9 ! frame ( ! ma*9e 9 su* a way t ! mov+ "p ( ! me*anism runs along ov] ! two edges & sews !m toge!r4 ,! ends ( ! c>pet1 top & bottom1 are !n turn$ ov] & hemm$ by h& or ma*9e4 ,! c>pet is !n fa/5$ to ! floor1 face d[nw>ds1 & ! seams are damp$ & !n press$ ) a heavy heat$ iron4 ,if ^! op]ations h be5 prop]ly p]=m$1 & if ! edges ( ! bread?s are good1 ! seams ( ! c>pet w be b>ely visible4 ,! c>pet is !n f9i%$1 ?\gh "s manufactur]s pref] to /ret* _! c>pets by atta*+ !m tightly to a frame1 & leav+ !m = "s h\rs4 ,f ! sew+ room ! c>pets pass to ! /ock room or ! pack+ room4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,wilton ,,wilton c>pet+ is simil> 9 manufacture 9 _m respects to ,brussels4 ,! loom is practically ! same = bo? fabrics1 conv]tible f "o to ! o!r )\t mu* difficulty or exp5se4 ,! prep>ation ( y>ns = wor/$ pile1 *a91 /uff]1 & weft is sub/antially id5tical1 :ile mo/ ( :at has be5 said ) reg>d to weav+ & f9i%+ op]ations applies no less to ,brussels ?an to ,wilton4 ,! ess5tial diff]5ces are two--a major & a m9or "o4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 ! loops ( wor/$ y>ns are cut1 s t ! "* ( ! surface is velvety in/ead ( smoo? & ribb$4 ,?is is effect$ by ! use ( a n>r[ wire end+ 9 a knife blade1 :i* blade /&s outside ! fabric :5 ! wire is ins]t$1 b sev]s ! loops ( wor/$ :5 ! wire is )drawn4 ,! second diff]5ce1 :i*1 h[ev]1 does n apply to all grades ( ,wilton c>pet1 is t = ! sake ( hold+ d[n ! pile m securely1 !re are ?ree %ots ( weft to ea* r[ ( pile1 in/ead ( two4 ,?is is effect$ by an adju/m5t ( ! ge> & h>ness motions1 9 su* a way t ! la% or %$ ( wor/$ select$ to =m ! patt]n does n rise alt]nately ) ! %$ ( ! *a91 b once 9 e ?ree picks ( ! %uttle or beats ( ! sley4 ,! cutt+ ( ! y>n1 result+ z x does 9 expos+ to view ! ends in/ead ( ! sides ( ! wool fibre1 gives a ri*] & s(t] surface effect bo? 9 appe>ance & 9 feel1 :ile ! treble weft %ot makes a bett] weave & a firm] fabric4 ,g5]ally also ,wilton c>pet+ is wov5 clos]1 ) m r[s to ! in*1 ?an ,brussels1 :i* necessitates1 incid5tally1 ! use ( ?9n] wires4 ,! /&>d be/ or ,sup] ,wilton c>pet is #bef pit*1 ) a beat-up ( #aj to ! in*1 wov5 ) a wire ab\t #c_/af 94 high2 a l95 weft is us$1 & a /uff] ( bump4 ,five frames ( wor/$ are g5]ally employ$4 ,?is is an excell5t c>pet = d9+ & draw+ rooms1 !atres1 %[ rooms1 & re/aurants1 & w we> well4 ,sev]al bett] qualities are made1 h[ev]2 & ! fabric l5ds itself readily to f9e & luxuri\s effects4 ,wires are us$ occasionally z high z #c_/h 94 or m4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f ,,section ,,( ,,five-,,frame ,,wilton ,a1 ,*a92 ,b1 ,pile w>p2 ,c1 ,/uff] w>p ,dep? ( pile1 h[ev]1 is n ! highe/ desid]atum 9 a ,wilton c>pet2 & ! mo/ notable developm5t ( rec5t ye>s 9 ! fabric has be5 9 ! direction ( a f9e1 closely wov5 fabric ) no excessive wool surface4 ,^! f9e ,wiltons are made #bef pit*1 #ab or #ac %ots p] in*1 & are g5]ally #b-%ot1 ) *a91 /uff]1 & weft ( cotton4 ,nei!r dep? ( pile nor weight is aim$ at1 b f95ess & smoo?ness ( surface & arti/ic effect2 & _! great popul>ity 9 spite ( ! pres5t high price seems to indicate t !y h ju/ifi$ !mselves4 ,at ! pres5t "t mo/ manufactur]s ( ,wilton produce a f9e ,wilton quality ( ?is nature4 ,among ! bett] qualities ( ,wilton1 m5tion mu/ be made ( ,saxonies1 ! "n giv5 to ,wiltons wov5 ) a heavy1 %>ply twi/$ tw(old ,saxony wor/$ y>n1 :i* possesses exceptional we>+ qualities4 ,bel[ ,sup] ,wilton come ! m$ium qualities1 made 9 #bcf pit*1 #aj to ! in*1 9 five1 f\r1 & ?ree frames2 arti/ic & s]viceable c>pets suitable = /udies1 b$-rooms1 & :at may be call$ g5]al use2 :ile !y are also 9 great dem& = ,c9ema !atres4 ,! *eap] grades ( ,wilton are made 9 #bad pit* ) ?ree frames or less4 ,_! manufacture has be5 limit$ dur+ ! w> by ! re/rict$ supplies ( wor/$ y>n2 & ev5 be=e t "t !y suff]$ f ! competition ( wooll5 ,wiltons1 ( :i* m5tion w be made4 ,! limitation ( col\rs on ! "o h&1 & ! comp>ative pov]ty ( ! fabric on ! o!r1 re/rict$ ! dem& to ^? = :om ! "q ( price 0 important2 & n[ t price-cutt+ has pass$ away 9 an era ( high values & %ortage ( mat]ial1 ^! qualities are out ( fav\r4 ,wooll5 ,wiltons1 or ,wilton fabrics ^: pile is made ( a %>ply twi/$ wooll5 y>n1 in/ead ( wor/$1 require special m5tion4 ,!y are ( comp>atively rec5t gr[?1 & probably orig9at$ 9 ! ef=t ( ! ,jacqu>d loom manufactur] to meet ! competition ( ,imp]ial ,axm9/]1 dat+ f ! "t :5 ! price ( ! latt] fabric 0 r\nd ab\t #ds41 & wooll5 y>n 0 correspond+ly *eap4 ,x 0 necess>ily r an uphill fight = ! ,jacqu>d loom1 because ! ,axm9/] possess$ ! initial advantages ( a greatly sup]ior range ( col\rs1 & ( great] economy 9 manufacture ow+ to ! y>n be+ all on ! surface4 ,! price ( wooll5 ,wiltons !re=e _h to be appreciably l[]1 & ! qualities cut z mu* z !y w\ld /&4 ,work+ on ?is basis1 h[ev]1 ! wooll5 ,wiltons did ju/ify _! exi/5ce4 ,made ma9ly 9 #bad pit*1 ) ?ree frames ( y>n or less1 & beat5 up f #h to #g p] in*1 !y a*iev$ unambiti\s b +5i\s & saleable effects1 & if ! cov] & consequ5t we> 0 n all t c\ld h be5 desir$1 yet !y s]v$ a purpose4 ,b x mu/ n be impli$ t ! only wooll5 ,wiltons 71 or are1 ! *eap grades4 ,! suitability ( wooll5 y>n = use 9 a ,wilton loom to produce a s(t & ev5 luxuri\s fabric ) an ,ori5tal effect has long be5 recognis$2 & admirable qualities h be5 wov5 9 #bef & #bcf pit* ) f\r or five frames ( y>n & ) fairly high wires4 ,inde$1 "s ( ^! c be reg>d$ z m successfully imitat+ ! ,ea/]n c>pet 9 texture ?an ev5 ! f9] wor/$ ,wiltons4 ,wilton c>pet+ l5ds itself p>ticul>ly well to s+le %ade effects3 pla9 ,wiltons h be5 wov5 9 a v>iety ( qualities ) bo? wor/$ & wooll5 y>n = _m ye>s2 &1 inde$1 ! dem& has %[n signs ( a /eady increase4 ,= ^? :o are cont5t ) a s+le col\r on ! floor 9 _! s*eme ( furni%+1 & :o d n object to ! s5sitiv5ess ( a pla9 c>pet to 8%ad+10 &1 inde$1 to ! record+ ( individual footpr9ts1 no fabric is bett] ?an a pla9 ,wilton4 ,b x %\ld be borne 9 m9d t a pla9 c>pet has t defect4 ,wool fibre is ela/ic1 b n inf9itely s4 ,a pla9 c>pet1 h[ev] well & c>efully wov51 _c be expect$ to reta9 its virg9 smoo?ness & level col\r = long "u we>4 ,we> on a c>pet is nev] ev5ly di/ribut$3 ! feet tread d[n "s places m ?an o!rs2 ! pile is depress$ unequally1 ) ! result t1 9 a pla9 c>pet1 ! light1 fall+ at diff]5t angles ^u ! fibres causes light & d>k pat*es to appe>4 ,?is is call$ %ad+1 & is (t5 wrongly attribut$ to defective manufacture1 or to ! pres5ce ( "s =eign sub/ance l oil4 ,%ad+ actually occurs equally 9 figur$ ,wiltons2 b x is r>ely ! subject ( compla9t1 simply because x is conceal$ by ! design & col\rs4 ,subject to ?is limitation1 !n1 pla9 c>pets1 & pla9 ,wiltons 9 p>ticul>1 are all "r = ^? :o l !m4 ,! manufactur] does n reg>d !m ) great en?usiasm1 =1 ?\gh 9 "s respects !y are easi] to make ?an figur$ goods1 yet !y are exact+ if !y are to be turn$ out p]fectly4 ,moreov]1 !y are m subject to competition1 & d n af=d scope = arti/ic skill 9 design & col\r comb9ation4 ,z has be5 indicat$1 ,wilton c>pet+1 l ,brussels1 has1 9 comp>ison ) "s ( its competitors1 two ma9 limitations2 "o economic & "o arti/ic4 ,= e squ>e or tuft ( y>n %[+ on ! surface1 !re are1 r\ghly1 f two to f\r p>ts uneconomically us$ 9 ! body ( ! fabric1 & ! numb] ( %ades t c be us$ to "w "o ov] ! o!r to =m ! patt]n is limit$ to five1 or1 exceptionally1 to six4 ,^! limitations1 h[ev]1 are n s]i\s ones2 & ! ,wilton c>pet1 9 its high] grades1 is reg>d$ by _m z ! be/ ( all ma*9e-made c>pets4 ,x is c]ta9ly ! f9e/2 & clos5ess ( texture1 broadly speak+1 means bo? f9] effects & bett] we>4 ,! high] grades ( ,wilton are made1 z has be5 /at$1 9 pit* & beat-up :i* give f #ie to #abc po9ts to ! squ>e in*2 s t 9 ! matt] bo? ( texture & ( delicacy ( design1 effects c be produc$ 9 ,wilton :i* surpass ^? ( any o!r c>pet fabric1 ) ! exception ( ! f9e/ ,p]sians4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,axm9/] ,,axm9/] c>pets1 ?\gh 9 po9t ( "t a comp>atively rec5t developm5t ( ! indu/ry1 may claim to be1 9 po9t ( /ructure1 ! ne>e/ relat$ ( all ma*9e-made fabrics to ! ,ori5tal ance/or4 ,! simil>ity lies 9 ! fact t !y are tuft$2 & ! tuft1 ?\gh ins]t$ 9 ! fabric me*anically1 & b\nd d[n )\t be+ knott$1 und\bt$ly repres5ts ! knott$ tuft ( ! orig9al h&-made c>pet4 ,! ess5tial feature ( a tuft$ ,axm9/] c>pet is t ! tufts are ins]t$ r[ by r[ betwe5 ! w>p ?reads1 ei!r be=e or aft] be+ cut (f1 & are !n b\nd d[n by ! weft1 & s wov5 into ! gr\nd ( ! texture4 ,ea* tuft is us$ on ! surface1 & =ms "p ( ! design2 none ( ! tuft mat]ial is hidd5 away or wa/$ 9 ! body ( ! fabric beyond :at is ne$$ = atta*m5t to ! b9d+ weft4 ,! ,axm9/] loom 0 introduc$ into ,engl& f ! ,unit$ ,/ates ab\t #ahgh2 & s9ce t "t ! fabric has develop$ /eadily1 ) an increas+ popul>ity1 :i* has only be5 rivall$ 9 rec5t ye>s by t ( ! ,*5ille ,axm9/]4 ,bradbury1 9 comm5t+ ^u ! simil>ity ( ,axm9/] 9 /ructure & appe>ance to ! orig9al h&-made c>pet1 says3 8,g5]ally speak+ !y are f> sup]ior to ,ea/]n & h&-made productions1 & :]e price is p]mitt$ to ent] z a factor1 !y leave ^! primitive /ructures /ill fur!r 9 ! re>40 ,?is may appe> to "s an extravagant appreciation2 b !re c be no diff]5ce ( op9ion z reg>ds ! g5]al m]its ( ! fabric4 ,x comb9es economy 9 ! use ( mat]ial1 & 9 manufacture1 ) ri*ness ( texture & almo/ unlimit$ pot5tialities ( design & col\r effect4 ,z 9 o!r c>pet fabrics1 !re are 9 ,axm9/] pl5ty ( v>ieties ( qualities2 b !re are comp>atively few diff]5ces 9 /ructure1 su* diff]5ces z exi/ be+ ma9ly matt]s ( pit*1 tuft1 or me?od ( tuft+ & b9d+4 ,! orig9al ,axm9/] quality 0 call$ ! ,royal4 ,?is is ab\t #e p] in* 9 ! pit*1 & #f 9 ! beat-up1 ) a tuft ( ab\t #g_/h 94 ,?is held ! field until #ahic1 :5 a /rong invasion ( ! ,briti% m>ket by ,am]ican ,axm9/]1 (f]$ at a consid]ably l[] price1 caus$ ! ,axm9/] mak]s ( ?is c\ntry to be/ir !mselves to meet ?is competition4 ,!y did s /r5u\sly2 & ! result 0 ! production ( ! quality kn[n z ! ,imp]ial ,axm9/]1 :i* _h an in/ant & a la/+ success4 ,?is 0 made 9 a pit* ( #g to ! in*1 & a beat-up ( ab\t #f1 & 0 put on ! m>ket at a mod]ate price4 ,= _m ye>s x held ! position ( be+ ! critical quality ( ! :ole trade2 ! /&>d by :i* ! value ( o!r qualities 0 measur$1 &1 z has be5 intimat$1 x is only ( rec5t ye>s t its position has be5 *all5g$ by ! ,*5ille ,axm9/]4 ,at ! pres5t "t1 x w\ld probably be safe to e/imate t ?ree-qu>t]s ( ,axm9/] manufactur]s' looms are be+ run on ?is quality4 ,! ,imp]ial ,axm9/] quality may1 !re=e1 be tak5 z typical ( ! fabric2 & a description ( h[ x is made w cov] mo/ ( ! gr\nd1 :ile v>iations f ! /&>d type c be indicat$4 ,! quality itself is made 9 slightly diff]5t ways by diff]5t mak]s1 b a normal /&>d w h ! usual d\ble *a91 pref]ably ( #b-ad or o!r l951 b sometimes ( cotton1 a cotton /uff]1 "o end to ea* re$1 & a jute weft ( ab\t #b fold #g lb4 c\nt4 ,! pit* is #ahi or #aij 9 ! #c-d wid?4 ,fig4 #g gives a transv]se section ?r\gh ! weft ( ! weave ord9>ily employ$4 ,9 ?is !re are ?ree w>ps employ$1 ! two *a9 w>ps be+ w\nd on "o beam1 & ! /uff] w>p1 :i* runs /raight 9 ! fabric1 on ano!r4 ,!re are ?ree d\ble %ots ( weft to ea* r[ ( tufts4 ,! two halves ( ! *a9 w>p alt]nately b9d two d\ble %ots above1 ! tuft b9d+ %ot & ! int]m$iate1 & "o bel[4 ,! effect ( ?is /ructure is to =m a flat back1 & also1 ?r\gh ! lat]al pressure ( ! int]m$iate weft ^u ! tuft weft1 "u ! same w>p %$1 to give ! tuft a di/9ct incl9ation out ( ! v]tical1 add+ !reby to ! fabric a po9t ( simil>ity to ! h&-tuft$ c>pet4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g ,,section ,,( ,,imp]ial ,,axm9/]4 #c-,,%ot ,a1 ,*a92 ,b1 ,tufts2 ,c1 ,/uff] w>p2 ,d1 ,d\ble weft ,! diagram ( ano!r me?od ( weav+ ?is quality is giv5 9 ,fig4 #h4 ,?ree w>ps are us$ "h aga91 b z ea* und]goes a diff]5t rate ( consumption1 !y are w\nd ^u ?ree sep>ate beams4 ,! /uff]1 z be=e1 runs /raight2 "o *a9 b9ds ! bottom & ! int]m$iate %ots1 & ! o!r ! tuft %ot4 ,9 ?is case1 ! tuft1 equally support$ on ea* side1 t5ds to rema9 v]tical1 :ile ! bottom weft1 project+ bel[ ! tuft weft1 gives ! back a ribb$ appe>ance4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h ,,section ,,( ,,axm9/]4 #c-,,%ot ,a1 ,*a92 ,b1 ,tufts2 ,c1 ,/uff] w>p2 ,d1 ,d\ble weft ,ea* ( ^! two weaves has its m]its4 ,! =m] gives bett] cov] ) its slop+ tuft1 :ile ! latt] claims an increas$ resili5cy & immunity f ! %ad+ 9 made-up c>pets1 s noticeable ) ! fir/-nam$ weave4 ,fig4 #i gives o!r b less usual /ructures4 ,x may be not$ t x is possible to employ jute = ! tuft b9d+ & int]m$iate weft %ots1 & at ! same "t a diff]5t y>n1 pref]ably ( wooll51 = ! bottom weft1 :i* %[s on ! back4 ,?is s]ves to make ! c>pet heavi] & m ela/ic to ! tread4 ,axm9/] may to "s ext5t be comp>$ ) ,tape/ry & ,*5ille1 9 t x is ess5tially a two-process fabric2 & ! pile y>ns are arrang$ s z to =m ! design be=e !y are put into ! loom4 ,! actual me?od ( prep>ation ( ! col\rs is1 h[ev]1 q diff]5t f t employ$ 9 ei!r ( ! o!r two fabrics4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,,sections ,,( ,,axm9/] ,,weaves ,! y>n is receiv$ f ! dye-h\se 9 ske9s1 & is w\nd on to l>ge bobb9s ) a #f 94 face4 ,! y>n f ^! bobb9s has !n to be w\nd on to a s]ies ( wide spools1 ! numb] ( :i* w be ! numb] ( ! r[s ( tufts 9 "o complete repeat ( ! design to be wov51 :ile ea* spool conta9s z _m ends ( y>n z !re are squ>es 9 ! wid? ( ! design4 ,?is op]ation is call$ sett+1 or sometimes1 re$+-94 ,! #f 94 bobb9s1 9 numb] equal to ! pit* ( ! c>pet1 say1 #ahi or #aij = ! #c-d wid? ( ! typical quality m5tion$ above1 are arrang$ on a creel frame fitt$ ) horizontal pegs 9 ord] correspond+ ) ! col\rs ( ! fir/ r[ ( ! design4 ,alt]natively1 a horizontal frame or table is employ$1 fitt$ ) v]tical pegs = ! bobb9s4 ,?is has ! advantage ( be+ m compact & accessible1 b ! col\rs are n s easily di/+ui%$4 ,! ends ( ! y>n f ea* bobb9 are l$ on to ! wide spool1 ?r\gh an op5 sley1 :i* is opposite to x & equal 9 wid?4 ,^! ends1 suitably t5sion$1 are !n w\nd on to ! wide spool4 ,= a design ( av]age l5g? ( repeat1 say #a yd41 "o full spool w weave ab\t #bej yds4 ,:5 ! spool is full1 !re=e1 ! y>ns are cut1 & fa/5$ d[n2 & z _m m spools are fill$ ) ! same arrangem5t ( col\rs z are ne$$ to weave ! requir$ quantity4 ,! op]ators !n re-arrange ! bobb9s 9 ! creel frame 9 accordance ) ! second r[ ( ! design pap]1 :i* is set up 9 "s conv5i5t place = ref]5ce1 draw !m 9 ord] ?r\gh ! sley on to ! spool1 w9d a second set ( spools1 & s on2 ea* spool be+ numb]$ ) its rotation z soon z fill$4 ,:5 ! spools = ! :ole ( ! repeat are w\nd1 :e!r "o or m = ea* r[ ( tufts1 !y are pass$ to wom51 ^: task x is to ?read ! ends ?r\gh a s]ies ( t9 tubes1 ! numb] ( :i* corresponds ) ! numb] ( ends on ea* spool4 ,! tubes are sold]$ to a piece ( t91 ( ,l-%ap$ section1 :i* is atta*$ to ! tuft+ c>riage4 ,! spools ) tubes atta*$ are !n plac$ 9 ! c>riages1 & are ready to be set up 9 ord] 9 ! loom = weav+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj ,,tuft+ ,,me*anism ,a1 ,wide spool2 ,b1 ,p92 ,c1 ,f+]2 ,d1 ,tuft+ c>riage2 ,e1 ,tubes2 sold]$ at ,f2 ,g1 ,guide-b>2 ,h1 ,transf]r+ arm2 ,i1 ,f+]2 ,k1 ,spr+2 ,l1 ,l9k ( *a92 ,m1 ,side view ( tube2 ,n1 ,angle atta*m5t ,! tuft+ c>riages are !n plac$1 9 ! correct rotation s z to =m ! patt]n1 ^u a pair ( endless *a9s1 :i* are actuat$ by ! driv+ me*anism ( ! loom 9 su* a way z to h an int]mitt5t motion s t1 :5 ea* spool is 9 position to make its r[ ( tufts1 ! *a9s rema9 at re/ long en\gh = ! spool to be remov$ f !m1 l[]$ = ! tubes to ent] ! w>p ?reads2 = ! tufts to be cut (f1 & ! spool to be replac$ on ! *a9s4 ,ea* spool ) its set ( tubes & c>riage1 !re=e1 is s set 9 ! *a9s t x c be automatically deta*$ at ! "r mom5t & br\ght into position to =m its successive l9e ( fur4 ,! me*anism t effects ^! +5i\s movem5ts is too complicat$ to describe "h4 ,x is an object lesson z to :at v>iable & int]mitt5t motions c be produc$ by comb9ations ( cams1 b[ls1 lev]s1 rods1 etc41 :ile x gives ! ,axm9/] loom ! di/9ction ( be+ probably ! mo/ +5i\s ( all c>pet looms1 subject p]haps to t rem>kable piece ( me*anism1 ! ,jacqu>d1 n be+ reg>d$ z exclusively "p ( a c>pet loom4 ,:5 ! spool rea*es ! l[e/ po9t 9 ! pa? ( ! d\ble *a9 :i* c>ries x1 a few in*es above ! fell ( ! clo?1 x is nipp$ by an arm f ea* side1 & convey$ d[nw>ds 9 su* a way t ! tubes ) ! ends ( ! tuft y>ns project+ are made to ent] ! spaces betwe5 ! upp] %$ ( ! *a9 w>p ) a slight sweep+ movem5t f ! front to ! back4 ,?is has ! result ( trail+ ! ends ( ! y>n close to ! fell ( ! clo? & ! la/ r[ ( tufts1 & leav+ a space bel[ ! upp] %$ ( ! *a91 s t ! weft-c>ry+ ne$le is able to ins]t a d\ble %ot above ! middle ( ! expos$ l5g?s ( tuft y>n4 ,! tuft+ tubes are n[ lift$ out ( ! %$1 & some:at =w>d t[>ds ! fell ( ! c>pet1 s z to d\ble ! tuft r\nd ! b9d+ %ot4 ,at ! same "t ! sley comes =w>d1 presses aga9/ ! tuft y>ns & ! weft enclos$ by !m1 & c>ries !m up to ! brea/ comb & ! fell ( ! c>pet4 ,) ! tuft y>ns & ! spool 9 position1 ano!r %ot ( weft is ins]t$1 ei!r ) or )\t a *ange ( ! w>p %$1 z ! case may be1 to assi/ 9 hold+ fa/ ! r[ ( tufts 9 ! c>pet4 ,! tuft+ c>riage & tubes are !n lift$ high en\gh to draw (f a suffici5t l5g? ( y>n to =m ! next r[ ( tufts 9 ! foll[+ repeat4 ,! tufts are !n cut by ! meet+ ( two broad knives1 :i* come toge!r at ! level ( ! surface ( ! c>pet ) a scissor-cutt+ motion4 ,! spool & c>riage are !n replac$ 9 ! *a9s1 mov$ "o /ep =w>d2 & ! succe$+ spool is br\ght into position4 ,x may be desirable to m5tion a diff]5t me?od ( ins]t+ ! tuft y>n4 ,9 ?is case ! spool is deta*$ f ! *a9 & made to desc5d almo/ /raight1 turn+ ab\t #fj out ( ! v]tical t[>ds ! back ( ! loom j z ! tubes ent] ! w>p %$4 ,?is has ! effect ( turn+ ! free ends ( ! tufts some:at upw>ds4 ,! spool is !n turn$ aga9 s t ! tubes are v]tical1 & are br\ght close aga9/ ! fell ( ! clo?4 ,! b9d+ weft is !n ins]t$1 & ! sley comes =w>d to c>ry ! tufts up aga9/ ! brea/4 ,at ?is /age1 a too!d comb1 made 9 two p>ts1 "o work+ ov] ! o!r1 comes up f bel[ ! brea/ to turn upw>ds ! loose ends ( ! pile ?r\gh ! w>p1 "o "p ( ! d\ble comb1 call$ ! dummy comb1 slipp+ ov] ! o!r s z to cle> any tufts :i* might be pull$ d[n on to ! back4 ,!n ! second b9d+ weft is put 91 beh9d ! tufts2 & at ! same "t ! tufts are cut4 ,!re is ano!r beat-up ( ! sley1 & ! bottom weft is ins]t$4 ,?is completes ! cycle2 ! w>p *a9s *ange2 & ! process is repeat$4 ,an alt]native fa%ion ( cutt+ to ! d\ble scissor or guillot9e knives is sometimes employ$1 a circul> knife 9 front engag+ aga9/ a fix$ /raight knife at ! back4 ,?is sy/em has ! advantage t ! knives h n to be kept %>p1 ?\gh !y mu/ be v accurately adju/$4 ,! weft motion is ano!r +5i\s piece ( me*anism4 ,! weft is ins]t$ 9 ! w>p %$ by a ne$le ab\t #e_/h 94 9 diamet]1 ent]+ f ! "r-h& side ( ! loom4 ,! jute weft is convey$ f a ball1 t5sion$ by suitable spr+s1 & ?read$ ?r\gh ! eye ( ! ne$le4 ,x is obvi\s t ! weft %ot mu/ be d\ble1 & also t x w\ld n /ay 9 ! %$ aft] ! )drawal ( ! ne$le1 unless x 7 caught 9 "s way at ! left h& ( ! loom4 ,?is is effect$ by a small %uttle c>ry+ ! edge-?read4 ,?is %uttle is simil> to a sew+ ma*9e %uttle1 b l>g]1 be+ ab\t #c 94 long & #a 94 9 diamet]4 ,x runs backw>ds & =w>ds 9 a semicircul> %uttle-race1 & is s adju/$ t x passes "u a not* ne> ! end ( ! ne$le1 & ov] a loop ( ! weft1 c>ry+ ! edge-?read ?r\gh ! loop1 & hold+ x taut :ile ! ne$le is rec$+ 9 su* a way z to prev5t ! weft slipp+ back1 & to make a good selv$ge to ! c>pet4 ,:5 x is desir$ to use two diff]5t weft ?reads1 ! ne$le has an op5 eye1 or hook ne> its end1 in/ead ( ! ord9>y eye1 & ! two wefts 9 turn are pres5t$ to ?is eye by a rock+ eyelett$ weft-c>ri]1 s t ! ne$le picks up ! weft j be=e x ent]s ! %$4 ,!re h be5 o!r developm5ts ( ! ,axm9/] pr9ciple ( ins]t+ tufts into ! weave ( ! fabric1 & v>iations f ! me?od ( ! wide spool & tubes4 ,( ^!1 ! mo/ successful has be5 bas$ ^u ! idea ( convey+ ! cut tufts by means ( nipp]s or gripp]s into ! fell ( ! clo?4 ,?is has be5 work$ 9 comb9ation ) ! wide spools1 b m satisfactorily 9 comb9ation ) y>n c>ri]s op]at$ by a ,jacqu>d ) a diff]5tial lift me*anism = select+ ! col\rs4 ,9 ?is loom1 :i* has be5 br\ght to p]fection = v>i\s qualities1 pit*es1 & wid?s1 9 rec5t ye>s1 ! pile y>ns are w\nd on to creel bobb9s1 :i* are arrang$1 9 mu* ! same way z 9 ,brussels & ,wilton1 9 creel frames beh9d ! loom4 ,a frame ( bobb9s is a set ( bobb9s ( ! same %ade1 equal 9 numb] to ! pit* ( ! loom4 ,! numb] ( frames is limit$ 9 practice to ab\t #af1 :i*1 h[ev]1 aid$ by 8plant+10 admit ( design & col\r effects comp>able ) ^? obta9able 9 ,royal ,axm9/]4 ,! y>ns are l$ betwe5 guide b>s & ?r\gh p]=at$ plates into ! c>ri]s1 :i* are v]tical /rips ( /eel or brass groov$ back & front & drill$ ) a s]ies ( slots1 ?r\gh :i* ! ends ( ! y>n pass1 be+ held 9 position by small spr+s4 ,! frames ( y>n are ?read$ ?r\gh ! holes 9 ! c>ri]s 9 ord]1 s t ! y>ns ( ! top frame pass ?r\gh ! highe/ hole 9 ! c>ri]1 ! second frame ?r\gh ! second hole1 & s on4 ,view$ f 9 front1 ! ends ( ea* frame ( y>n w be se5 9 horizontal l9es "o above ! o!r 9 ! front grooves ( ! c>ri]s4 ,^! c>ri]s are connect$ by cords or wires ) a diff]5tial lift me*anism1 :i* is actuat$ by ! ,jacqu>d1 9 su* a way t ! blank or p]=ation on ! ,jacqu>d c>d1 correspond+ ) a c]ta9 col\r1 causes ! c>ri] to be lift$ until t col\r is at ! requir$ height4 ,x c readily be und]/ood t c>ds p]=at$ 9 diff]5t ways1 & pres5t$ to ! ,jacqu>d at once1 c cause ! c>ri]s all across ! loom to be lift$ v>y+ heights 9 su* a way z to %[ at ! requir$ level a horizontal r[ ( ?read ends1 correspond+ to a r[ across ! wid? ( ! pap] design4 ,! sequ5ce ( ^! r[s1 ( c\rse1 =ms ! patt]n4 ,x rema9s to cut (f ! tufts1 to lay !m 9 _! place at ! fell ( ! clo?1 & weave !m into ! c>pet4 ,!re is a set ( gripp]s1 9 %ape v simil> to ! neck & beak ( a bird1 m\nt$ on ?ree %afts1 & arrang$ s z to revolve 9 ab\t a semicircle betwe5 ! c>ri]s & ! fell ( ! c>pet4 ,! ,jacqu>d1 hav+ op]at$ s z to pres5t ! ends ( ! requir$ col\r 9 ! c>ri]s 9 a horizontal l9e1 ! gripp]s come up 9 front ( !m ) op5 beaks1 :i* are ins]t$ j into ! c>ri] grooves1 & !n close1 nipp+ ! ends ( ! y>n4 ,! :ole ( ! frame 9 :i* ! c>ri]s are m\nt$ is !n )drawn away f ! po9ts ( ! gripp]s a suffici5t di/ance to give ! requir$ l5g? ( tuft4 ,a flat-too!d comb ( h>d5$ /eel1 ( ! same pit* z ! gripp]s1 c>ri]s1 & c>pet1 drops d[n ) its po9ts betwe5 ! ?reads s z to hold !m /eady1 :ile a travell+ knife or set ( knives1 pass+ along ! face ( ! comb1 sev]s ! tufts4 ,! gripp]s !n desc5d into ! w>p ?reads1 lay+ ! tufts aga9/ ! fell ( ! c>pet2 ! ne$le or %uttle passes ov] !m & ?r\gh ! %$1 c>ry+ ! b9d+ weft1 :i* is beat5 up by ! op5 sley1 at ! same "t z ! gripp]s op5 to release ! end ( ! tuft1 & d\ble x upw>ds4 ,two o!r %ots are ins]t$1 :ile ! gripp]s move 9 _! semicircul> pa? upw>ds to seize ! next r[ ( tufts1 & aga9 d[nw>ds to lay !m 9 place4 ,! advantages claim$ = ?is v +5i\s me?od ( ,axm9/] weav+ are3 t ! prep>atory processes are consid]ably simpl] ?an ) ! ,royal & ,crompton pat5ts2 t ! quantity ( any patt]n to be wov5 c be bett] controll$2 & t x involves less wa/e4 ,!re is no disadvantage 9 ! weav+ ( a small quantity1 if requir$1 z #a y>d or #ejj c be wov5 equally well2 & ! y>n left ov] at ! end ( an ord] c be cut (f at ! back ( ! c>ri]s ) a m9imum ( wa/e1 & /or$ conv5i5tly on creel bobb9s4 ,! cutt+ me*anism is also s good1 t ! surface wa/e is r$uc$ to a negligible quantity1 & a m9imum ( %e>+ & f9i%+ is requir$4 ,h[ev] ?is may be1 x is notewor?y t ! pr9ciple has be5 appli$ ) complete success to looms = weav+ wide seamless c>pets1 :]e ! gripp] me*anism1 ?\gh necess>ily heavy1 has probably a di/9ct advantage ov] ! wide spool & tubes4 ,axm9/]1 l o!r c>pet fabrics1 has t5d$ to develop 9 ! direction ( wide seamless goods2 & ?is is a t5d5cy t w be wor? wat*+1 lead+ z x does t[>ds ! evolution ( ! ideal c>pet--a ma*9e-made knott$ fabric4 ,ideal1 t is to say1 9 ! s5se t ! knott+ ( a tuft on to a gr\ndwork ( w>p & weft is ! be/ way ( putt+ a c>pet toge!r1 & hav+ reg>d = ! facts t we live 9 a me*anical age2 t we _c af=d "t or money to make our own c>pets by h&2 & t we ought n to buy =eign h&-made c>pets4 ,exp]im5ts 9 me*anically knott$ c>pets h cont9ually be5 made1 & def9ite progress has be5 won 9 rec5t ye>s2 b ! te*nical difficulties are consid]able1 & x w be int]e/+ to see :e!r a c>pet ( s exceptional a weave c be put on ! m>ket1 except at a price comp>able only ) t ( a h&-tuft$ fabric4 ,mean:ile1 ! seamless tuft$ ,axm9/]1 z x is n[ made 9 two or ?ree =ms1 ) tufts z securely fa/5$ = all practical purposes into ! body ( ! fabric z if !y 7 knott$1 holds ! field z ! ne>e/ approa* to ! ideal1 & is des]v+ ( a f> l>g] measure ( support f ! ,briti% consum] t x has enjoy$ hi!rto4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,*5ille ,,*5ille ,axm9/] c>pet+ possesses "o or two features :i* diff]5tiate x %>ply f o!r k9ds ( c>pet4 ,x is ! product ( two di/9ct processes3 ! =mation ( ! *5ille fur1 & ! weav+ ( t fur1 :i* is ! weft1 into a c>pet4 ,x is1 9 fact1 ab\t ! only cut-pile c>pet fabric 9 :i* ! patt]n is di/9ctively =m$ by ! weft2 = 9 almo/ all o!r makes ! weft only p]=ms ! function ( comb9+ ) ! *a9 to =m ! wov5 fabric4 ,tak+ fir/ ! manufacture ( ! fur1 ! dy$ y>n1 :i* is normally a s+le wooll51 ab\t #ee y>ds p] ounce1 is w\nd on cops :i* fit inside ! %uttles = ! weft looms4 ,be=e />t+ to weave1 ! weav] w h a supply ( cops ( all ! col\rs requir$ 9 ! c>pet4 ,! pap] design w %[ full size1 ! :ole ( ! patt]n1 fill+ & bord]1 t repeats1 9 ! col\rs t are to be us$4 ,! design is cut up horizontally into /rips two squ>es wide2 & ! weav] works by ?is pap] /rip1 :i* is atta*$ to ! fabric 9 its l5g?1 ins]t+ & *ang+ ! %uttles c>ry+ y>n ( v>i\s col\rs4 ,! w>p ( ! loom consi/s ( sets ( ends ( f9e cotton at int]vals ( ab\t 94 ,?us ! wov5 fabric consi/s ( a wooll5 weft ( v>i\s col\rs held toge!r at int]vals by a f9e cotton w>p4 ,! pit* ( ! w>p v>ies1 ( c\rse1 accord+ to ! "* & quality ( ! fur to be made1 ! scales1 indicat+ ! numb] ( sets ( w>p ?reads to ! y>d1 be+1 normally1 ei!r #bh1 #ch1 #ef1 #gf1 or #aab4 ,on an ord9>y weft loom1 mak+ a fabric #db 94 wide1 on a #gf scale1 !re w be #hh /rips1 :i* w make two repeats ( a c]ta9 portion1 say #d 94 long1 ( #dd c>pets4 ,! av]age l5g? ( ! wov5 /rip is ab\t #dh y>ds4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aa ,,*5ille ,,design ,,pap] ,,cut ,,up ,! weav] has to ins]t by h& ! %uttle c>ry+ ! requir$ col\r to mat* ! squ>e or squ>es on ! pa9t$ /rip ( design pap]1 c\nt ! numb] ( %ots ne$$1 /op ! loom1 *ange ! %uttle & re-/>t ! loom2 s t x w be se5 t quickness ( eye & dext]ity are requir$4 ,a me*anical device has be5 inv5t$ = *ang+ ! %uttles2 b x is n automatic1 & does n appe> to pres5t any di/9ct advantage ov] ! me?od ( *ang+ by h&2 & x c only be employ$ ) a limit$ numb] ( col\rs4 ,! fabric is beat5 up f #ab to #bj %ots p] in*1 accord+ to ! quality ( ! fur requir$2 b ! clos] beats up are only suitable = wor/$ y>n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab ,,*5ille ,,clo? ,! next process is ! fur-cutt+4 ,! roll ( clo? ) its horizontal /ripes is tak5 to ! cutt+ ma*9e1 :]e x is cut into /rips by a s]ies ( knives set ^u a revolv+ cyl9d]1 & spac$ s t !y sev] ! wooll5 weft-?reads z ! fabric passes ov] ! cutt+ b$1 & leave ! indep5d5t /rips ( fur held toge!r by ! f9e cotton w>p4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ac ,,fur ,,aft] ,,cutt+4 ,,cut ,,& ,,fold$4 ,,transv]se ,,section ,,%[+ ,,fur ,,ins]t$ ,imm$iately aft] be+ cut free1 ^! /rips ( fur pass ov] a jet ( /eam & a /eam-heat$ cyl9d]1 ^: surface is =m$ ) a s]ies ( ,v-%ap$ grooves4 ,?is has ! result ( fold+ upw>ds ! cut ends ( ! wooll5 y>n1 & giv+ a p]man5t ,v-%ape 9 section to ! fur4 ,! object ( ?is is t :5 ! fur comes to be wov51 its pile %all all be turn$ 9 "o direction4 ,! damp+ ( ! fur j be=e ! groov$ cyl9d] is sometimes effect$ by roll]s revolv+ 9 a tr\gh fill$ ) wat]4 ,! newly =m$ fur is !n reel$ (f into individual ske9s4 ,x is m>k$ bo? ) its patt]n numb] & s]ies numb]1 & sort$ into its prop] sets4 ,= a c>pet #i ft4 wide beat5 up #d %ots p] in*1 x w be se5 t ea* in* 9 ! l5g? ( ! c>pet w require no less ?an #ab y>ds ( fur weft1 s t a /rip ( fur #dh y>ds long w only weave #d in*es2 & if ! repeat ( a design be a y>d long1 #i s]ies ( fur /rips w be ne$$4 ,! fur /rips are1 !re=e1 sort$ into _! sets & numb]$ f #a to #i = a #a y>d repeat1 or z ! case may be2 & are /or$ 9 bundles ( ske9s until requir$4 ,we n[ come to ! second "p ( ,*5ille manufacture1 ! weav+ up ( ! fur into ! c>pet4 ,?is is done on a sett+ loom1 :i* may be reg>d$ = ! pres5t purpose z normally ( a wid? ( #i ft4 or upw>ds4 ,?is is n say+ t ,*5ille is n wov5 9 n>r[] wid?s1 = ,*5ille is wov5 9 pieces #bg 94 & #cf 94 wide1 & a v l>ge bus9ess is done 9 rugs ( v>i\s wid?s betwe5 ab\t ! same limits4 ,:5 a c>pet is ord]$1 ! fur 9 bundles ( ske9s is h&$ out to ! cop-w9d]1 ^: duty x is to w9d ! ske9s on to cops = use 9 ! sett+ loom1 & to s]ve !m to ! weav]s 9 _! prop] ord]4 ,cops are always ! same size1 b ! l5g? ( c>pet t a cop w weave dep5ds1 ( c\rse1 on ! wid? ( ! c>pet4 ,! sett+ loom is prep>$ = "w by ! ?read+ ( ends ( w>p f v>i\s beams ?r\gh eyelets c>ri$ on ge> frames1 9 mu* ! same way z 9 a ,brussels or ,wilton loom4 ,inde$1 ?is pr9ciple is common to all wov5 fabrics1 v>y+ only 9 its application1 t is to say1 9 ! numb] & arrangem5t ( ! w>p beams1 ! y>n employ$1 & ! pit*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad ,,section ,,( ,,*5ille ,,axm9/] ,a1 ,*5ille fur ,c1 ,fur wefts ,d1 ,cat*] w>p ,e1 ,float w>p ,f1 ,/uff] w>p ,g1 ,*a9 ,h1 ,fill+ weft ,9 a typical ,*5ille c>pet1 su* z t :i* is beat5 up #d to ! in*1 z above m5tion$1 ! pit* ( ! design w be #ab or #ac p] in* 7! beat-up ( ! weft71 & ( ! sley #g1 ?\gh1 inde$1 ! latt] is arbitr>y1 & ne$ be> no relation to ! fur4 ,!re w be ?ree w>p beams1 ! cat*] beam1 ! *a9 beam1 & ! /uff] beam4 ,a f\r? is (t5 add$1 call$ ! float4 ,! cat*] w>p consi/s ( f9e cotton1 col\r$ 9 "s neutral %ade1 s z to be z ne>ly invisible z possible1 its function be+ m]ely to hold d[n ! fur weft :5 x is ins]t$ into ! fabric4 ,! *a91 or gr\nd w>p1 :i* is g5]ally ( jute y>n1 is d\ble1 & is ?read$ on to two ge>s1 :i* rise & fall alt]nately z 9 ,brussels4 ,! /uff] or dead w>p1 also ( jute1 runs /raight into ! fabric1 & gives x sub/ance4 ,= a #c or #d p] in* ,*5ille c>pet1 ( av]age quality1 two %uttles w be us$1 "o c>ry+ ! jute b9d+ weft1 & ! o!r ! fur4 ,!re are f\r picks ( jute weft to "o ( fur1 & at ! end ( ! fif? pick ! loom /ops automatically ) ! *a9 & /uff] horizontal1 & ! cat*] w>p =m+ a %$1 "u :i* ! fur has j be5 c>ri$4 ,! weav]s1 two to ea* wide loom1 w !n set ! fur1 tak+ c>e t x mat*es correctly aga9/ ! la/ fur %ot1 & t ! pile po9ts upw>ds4 ,!y w also lightly comb up ! fur1 s t x b$s aga9/ ! la/ %ot1 & ! cat*] ?reads settle d[n neatly ?r\gh ! pile4 ,?is done1 ! loom is re-/>t$3 ! fir/ beat ( ! sley pu%es ! fur %ot home1 & ! next f\r jute %ots are put 94 ,= clos] weaves ?an #d p] in*1 two jute weft %ots may suffice1 :ile heavy wooll5-back$ c>pets are produc$ by ! employm5t ( a %uttle c>ry+ a wooll5 weft4 ,9 ! case ( heavy-back$ c>pets1 ! d\ble %$ is usually employ$1 ! adjo9+ *a9 ends ris+ alt]nately1 s t !y %[ on ! back 9 diagonal l9es4 ,! object ( a float w>p1 :i* rises a little above ! level ( ! /uff] w>p j :5 ! fur %ot is be+ wov51 is to support ! fur %ot1 & give a full] & m level effect to ! c>pet4 ,!re is ano!r me?od ( ins]t+ ! weft adopt$ 9 looms ( a diff]5t make1 :]eby x is c>ri$ betwe5 ! cat*] & ! o!r ge>s by a travell+ arm1 :i* leads ! fur f a basket or c 9 :i* x is plac$ loose4 ,?is has ! advantage ( enabl+ a long l5g? ( fur to be wov51 :ile x also avoids ! cru%+ ( ! fur :i* results f its be+ w\nd on to a cop4 ,) ?is me?od ! cat*] beam is plac$ high up 9 ! middle ( ! loom1 & ! sley is made ( /rong] re$s1 op5 at ! top to all[ ! cat*] w>p ends to desc5d betwe5 !m4 ,f ! loom ! complete c>pet passes to ! f9i%+ room1 :]e x is pick$ back & front1 bru%$1 /eam$1 comb$1 & %orn2 all ^! processes t5d+ to fill out & level ! surface4 ,x is !n pass$ or exam9$ = any defects t may h escap$ notice 9 ! fir/ m5d+4 ,! ends ( ! c>pet1 :i* are wov5 )\t fur1 are turn$ ov] & hemm$1 pref]ably by ma*9e4 ,! c>pet is !n subject$ to a f9al scrut9y be=e be+ swept1 roll$1 & dispat*$ to ! pack+ room or w>eh\se4 ,z has be5 intimat$1 consid]able v>iety ( quality c be obta9$ 9 ,*5ille ,axm9/] by alt]+ ! pit* & ?ickness ( ! fur 9 ! weft loom1 or ! beat-up 9 ! sett+ loom4 ,9 practice1 h[ev]1 competition has c5tr$ ma9ly r\nd two /&>ds ( quality3 "o ab\t #ab %ots ( y>n p] in* 9 ! fur1 by #c or #d p] in* beat-up 9 ! sett+ loom2 & ! o!r ab\t #ad 9 ! fur & #e 9 ! sett+ loom4 ,extra qualities1 h[ev]1 are also l>gely made1 & heavy fabrics :i* give an excell5t imitation ( "s ,ori5tal c>pets4 ,*5ille c>pets h increas$ enorm\sly 9 popul>ity dur+ ! pa/ few ye>s2 & ! *eap] quality may be consid]$ to h *all5g$ ev5 ,imp]ial ,axm9/] 9 ! consum]'s fav\r1 & almo/ to h become ! critical fabric ( ! indu/ry4 ,! reason = ?is is n f> to seek4 ,! ta/e ( c>pet us]s all ov] ! _w has t5d$ 9 rec5t times m & m 9 ! direction ( seamless c>pets2 :ile ! dem& = piece goods1 9 body & bord]1 has correspond+ly decl9$4 ,! evolution ( ! ,*lidema squ>e1 wov5 9 #bg 94 bread?s ) a bord] mat*+ all r\nd1 has be5 to "s ext5t ! cause ( ! loss ( ! piece goods trade2 & x succe$$ 9 reta9+ ! bus9ess1 ?\gh 9 small] bulk1 = ! #c-d yd4 looms1 bo? 9 ,brussels & ,wilton1 & lat]1 9 a less degree1 = tuft$ ,axm9/]4 ,b ! bread? squ>e has _h to give way be=e ! seamless squ>e1 & 9 p>ticul> be=e ! seamless ,*5ille ,axm9/] squ>e4 ,! *eap ,*5ille fabric possesses sev]al m>k$ advantages ov] ,brussels & ,wilton1 ,tape/ry1 & ev5 ov]1 tuft$ ,axm9/] bread? squ>es4 ,x is )\t seam2 x gives a comp>atively luxuri\s surface ) ! absolute m9imum ( wool2 & x is practically unlimit$ 9 col\r4 ,fur!r1 ! looms are n exp5sive to erect & run1 & 9 ?is respect ! ,*5ille squ>e has an initial advantage ov] ! seamless ,wilton or tuft$ ,axm9/] c>pets1 :i* necessitate co/ly & complicat$ ma*9]y4 ,on ! o!r h&1 x has its disadvantages4 ,x is n made 9 a f95ess ( pit* :i* admits ( effects ( design obta9able readily 9 ,wilton or ev5 9 tuft$ ,axm9/]1 :ile1 h[ev] skilful ! sett+ may be1 !re is an inh]5t t5d5cy to irregul>ity 9 ! patt]n1 :i* is apt to (f5d ! critical eye4 ,fur!r1 9 ! *eap] qualities1 :i* =m ! great bulk ( ! sale1 ! we>+ qualities d n comp>e fav\rably ) ^? (1 say1 ,imp]ial ,axm9/]4 ,^! disadvantages1 h[ev]1 d n det] t num]\s class ( consum]s :i* dem&s an attractive c>pet at a mod]ate price4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,tape/ry ,,tape/ry is a fabric made alt]natively ) a loop$ pile or a cut pile1 :i* possesses a close aff9ity to ,brussels & ,wilton respectively1 9 its appe>ance & texture4 ,9 its me?od ( manufacture1 h[ev]1 x has some?+ 9 common ) ,*5ille1 inasmu* z x is ess5tially a two-process fabric1 :ile ! patt]n is :olly 9 ! surface1 & is ! direct result ( ! prelim9>y & n ( ! weav+ process4 ,no ,jacqu>d is us$4 ,9 comp>ison ) its ne>e/ competitors1 ,brussels & ,wilton1 ,tape/ry is simple 9 con/ruction1 & economical 9 ! quantity ( pile y>n consum$1 z !re is only "o pile w>p-?read c>ry+ ! patt]n1 z aga9/ f\r or five ?reads 9 ! two fabrics nam$4 ,x also has ! advantage ( a practically unlimit$ range ( col\rs4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ,tape/ry is exp5sive 9 ! prep>atory processes1 & requires a high degree ( te*nical k & skill4 ,! und]ly+ pr9ciple ( ! fabric1 :i* 0 inv5t$ by ,mr4 ,ri*>d ,:ytock1 ( ,ed9burgh1 9 #aheb1 is ! atta9m5t ( ! economy ( us+ "o frame ( wor/$ y>n by pr9t+ or pa9t+ ! patt]n on ! ?reads1 in/ead ( us+ five frames1 ea* ( a diff]5t col\r4 ,sev]al me?ods h be5 tri$ = pr9t+ ! patt]n on ! w>p1 su* z pr9t+ ^u ! surface ei!r :ite or dy$1 aft] weav+2 pr9t+ ! w>p ?reads collectively be=e weav+2 & pr9t+ ! w>p ?reads individually4 ,9 ! two la/ nam$ cases ! design or "p ( ! design has to be pr9t$ 9 an elongat$ =m to all[ = ! r$uction caus$ by ! ins]tion ( ! wires 9 weav+4 ,mod]n ,tape/ry manufacture1 h[ev]1 has practically conc5trat$ ^u ! la/-nam$ me?od2 s t ! o!rs c be disreg>d$ = ! pres5t purpose4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae ,,design ,,( ,,tape/ry ,,c>pet ,9 common ) o!r c>pet fabrics1 ! design = a ,tape/ry c>pet mu/ be put ^u squ>$ pap]1 :i* is pref]ably1 at lea/1 ( ! actual size4 ,!re is no limitation ( col\r beyond t impos$ by consid]ations ( ta/e & ( exp5se4 ,! pit* ( ! c>pet v>ies f #g to #i p] in*1 & ! beat-up ab\t ! same2 b ! av]age quality is ab\t #h ea* way4 ,! design hav+ be5 prep>$1 x passes to ! pr9t]s1 :o are responsible = col\r+ ! y>ns 9 su* a way t !y c be assembl$ ready = produc+ ! correct patt]n 9 ! weav+4 ,z ! w>p c>ries ! :ole ( ! patt]n1 & ! diff]5t col\rs ( ! design are pr9t$ on ! w>p ?reads1 ! design mu/ be read l5g?wise4 ,ea* squ>e on ! design pap] repres5ts a loop ( ! w>p 9 ! wov5 c>pet4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af ,,design ,,9 ,,fig4 #ae ,,elongat$ ,,z ,,pr9t$ ,! l5g? ( col\r to be pr9t$ on ! w>p ?read mu/1 ( c\rse1 be> an accurate relation to ! height ( ! wire us$ & ! numb] ( wires p] in*4 ,?is is a matt] ( calculation4 ,! l5g? ( y>n consum$ 9 #a in* is det]m9$4 ,?is l5g?1 divid$ by ! numb] ( wires1 or loops p] in*1 gives ! l5g? ( w>p y>n to be col\r$ = ea* wire4 ,?us1 = a c>pet ( n9e wires to ! in*1 #c in*es ( w>p y>n are requir$ = ea* in* ( ! c>pet4 ,! l5g? ( ea* unit ( col\r to be pr9t$ is1 !re=e1 #a_/c 94 ,! me*anism ( ! pr9t+ drum is adju/$ accord+ly1 & c be v>i$ = diff]5t qualities4 ,! normal y>n us$ 9 ,tape/ry v>ies 9 c\nt f #ajs #b #b to #afs #b #c wor/$4 ,x is sc\r$ & dri$1 & !n w\nd f hanks on to l>ge bobb9s4 ,a set ( six ( ^! bobb9s1 or m or less1 fill$ ) ! :ite y>n1 is plac$ v]tically on a /& 9 front ( ! pr9t+ drum2 & ! six ends ( wor/$ are atta*$ at equal int]vals to a triple ?read ( wor/$ /ret*$ across ! wid? ( ! drum4 ,! ?reads1 prop]ly t5sion$1 pass ?r\gh guides1 & are w\nd on to ! face ( ! drum1 ! guides be+ m\nt$ on a rod :i* is sl[ly mov$ lat]ally 9 su* a mann] t ! ?reads are laid side by side on ! surface ( ! drum4 ,! revolution ( ! drum cont9ues until ! :ole face is cov]$1 or until ! requir$ l5g? ( y>n has be5 w\nd4 ,9 ! latt] case1 few] bobb9s are put on1 & ! drum is left p>tly uncov]$4 ,to fill a drum ( ord9>y size1 !n1 !re w be requir$ #a1agf ?reads1 :i* w be obta9$ f #aif revolutions4 ,ea* ( ! six divisions is call$ a hank1 & is ti$ sep>ately4 ,:atev] ! numb] ( ?reads & l5g? ( ! hank1 ! :ole l5g? ( ! y>n on ! drum repres5ts "o w>p ?read only4 ,! pr9t+ drum is a l>ge roll] con/ruct$ ) a wood5 or t9 face support$ ^u an iron frame & spokes1 ! c5tral %aft & ext]nal me*anism be+ c>ri$ ^u iron framework4 ,drums are ( v>i\s sizes1 v>y+ 9 circumf]5ce f #ab ft4 #f 94 to #dj ft41 & 9 wid? ( face f #ah 94 to #gb 941 capable ( c>ry+ f #gjj to #a1bjj ?reads side by side4 ,! mo/ usual wid? is #cj 94 ,! size ( drums is reckon$ by ! numb] ( 8scrolls0 or 8types10 t is1 l9es ( col\r1 !y w c>ry4 ,^! are commonly #baf1 #cbd1 #dcb1 #fdh1 #hfd1 or #a1jgb scrolls2 b an av]age size is #fdh4 ,an ess5tial "p ( ! drum is ! d\ble r[ ( tee? cut on a metal edge atta*$ to "o ( ! out] rims ( ! drum4 ,^! are call$ indices & are ( diff]5t pit*1 say #fdh & #dcb1 correspond+ to "o or o!r ( ! scrolls4 ,ea* too? is numb]$ consecutively1 all r\nd ! rim2 & ! indices repres5t ! total numb] ( scrolls :i* c be pr9t$1 s9ce ! pit* ( ea* too? p]mits ! drum to revolve j ! wid? ( ! scroll pulley4 ,a pawl or scot*] is arrang$ s z to engage 9 ea* too? & /op ! drum :5 requir$4 ,be=e pr9t+1 ! drum is cov]$ ) /rips ( oilclo?1 :i* are removable4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ag ,,pr9t+ ,,drum1 ,,cov]$ ,,) ,,y>n1 ,,p>tly ,,col\r$ ,! actual pr9t+ or pa9t+ ( ! y>n is effect$ by means ( ! scroll pulley1 :i* revolves 9 a box ,! arr[s %[ :]e ! repeats beg9 conta9+ ! col\r1 ! :ole be+ borne by a c>riage runn+ on rails across ! wid? ( ! drum at ! bottom ( ! frame4 ,! col\rs are made up by an exp]t col\ri/ to mat* ! requir$ %ades1 & by ! admixture ( fl\r & wat] are br\ght to ! necess>y consi/5cy1 :i* is ab\t t ( a ?9 pa/e1 s t ! col\r+ matt] is d5se en\gh to adh]e1 b liquid en\gh to p5etrate ! y>n fibres4 ,9 ! c>riage1 ! col\r roll]1 :i* revolves 9 ! col\r1 is support$ by spr+s :i* t5d to give x ela/icity & keep x up aga9/ ! face ( ! drum4 ,! c>riage is drawn across ! drum by a rope :i* is me*anically actuat$1 &1 ( c\rse1 h>monises ) ! revolution ( ! drum4 ,at ! end ( ea* trav]se ( ! col\r c>riage !re is a pause1 :i* gives ! pr9t] "t to *ange ! pawl into ! new too? ( ! index at :i* x is requir$4 ,! pr9t] is guid$ 9 8 selection ( col\rs = ea* scroll t he pr9ts by ! 8scale bo>d0 & ! 8design bo>d40 ,scale bo>ds v>y accord+ to ! pit* ( ! design pap]1 & accord+ to ! l5g? ( ! design1 & ! numb] ( times 9 :i* a design repeats 9 "o revolution ( ! pr9t+ drum4 ,?us1 = a design on squ>$ pap] runn+ sev5 p] in* 9 its l5g?1 ! scale bo>d is m>k$ into divisions ( sev5 to ! in* ?r\gh\t its l5g?1 s z to correspond ) ! horizontal divisions on ! design pap]4 ,suppos+ a design repeats f\r times 9 ! :ole revolution1 a qu>t] bo>d is employ$2 if x repeats twice a half bo>d1 ! total numb] ( scrolls be+ divid$ into f\r or two respectively4 ,?us1 if ! size ( ! drum is #fdh scrolls & ! numb] ( wires 9 "o repeat ( ! patt]n is #afb1 ! qu>t] bo>d w h f\r v]tical columns ( figures1 runn+ respectively #a-afb1 #afc-cbd1 #cbe-dhf1 & #dhg-fdh4 ,! scale bo>d has a bevel edge1 & is pref]ably arrang$ s t x c be mov$ ov] ! design bo>d & align$ ) ! v]tical l9e ( ! design :i* ! pr9t] is reproduc+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah ,,scale ,,& ,,design ,,bo>d ,,comb9$ ,fig4 #ah repres5ts "p ( a scale & design bo>d comb9$4 ,! numb]s along ! top indicate ! ?reads 9 ! design1 & ! pr9t] may be suppos$ to be ready to pr9t ! eigh? ?read4 ,! numb]s on ! "r-h& side repres5t ! wires 9 ! c>pet1 ) :i* ! numb]s on ! scale bo>d & ! scrolls 9 pr9t+ correspond4 ,! design is #baf wires long2 & z ! numb] ( scrolls ! drum w take is #fdh1 ! design is repeat$ ?ree times 9 "o revolution4 ,! scale bo>d is numb]$ 9 ?ree columns2 & = ! fir/1 second1 & ?ird repeats ( ! design1 ! pr9t] uses ! fir/1 second1 & ?ird divisions on 8 scale4 ,to m9imise ! dang] ( bad effects f a col\r runn+1 ! rule is to beg9 pr9t+ ) ! lighte/ %ade4 ,9 ?is in/ance1 ! lighte/ col\r is yell[1 repres5t$ 7h]aldically7 by spots1 & x occurs fir/ at ! f\r? horizontal l9e4 ,! pr9t]1 !re=e1 turns ! drum by h&1 & puts ! pawl 9 too? numb] #d4 ,he !n puts ! me*anism 9 ge> & pr9ts ! scroll 9 ! mann] describ$1 foll[+ on imm$iately by pr9t+ a second scroll at numb] #e4 ,he !n reads fur!r d[n ! eigh? v]tical l9e ( ! design1 & sees t ! col\r recurs at #aj1 #aa1 #ah1 #ai1 #bd1 & #be4 ,he !re=e puts ! pawl 9 ! correspond+ tee? ( ! index consecutively & pr9ts accord+ly4 ,:5 all ! yell[ squ>es correspond+ to ! fir/ column ( ! scale bo>d h be5 read1 he w take ! second column1 & pr9t #bbj1 #bba1 #bbf1 #bbg1 #bcd1 #bce1 #bdj1 #bda & s on1 & !n ^? 9 ! ?ird column4 ,! rema9+ col\rs w !n foll[ on 9 ord] ( _! delicacy4 ,:5 ! pr9t+ ( a drum has be5 complet$1 ! next process is scrap+4 ,! scroll pulley 9 ! act ( pr9t+ always conveys m pigm5t on to ! y>n ?an is ne$$ to col\r x1 a little wall ( mat]ial be+ left on ea* side ( ! pa? ( ! roll]4 ,?is has to be remov$1 or x w\ld smudge4 ,?is is done by means ( small vulcanite tools1 bevell$ to a blunt edge1 f 94 to #b 94 wide1 ! op]ator be+ aid$ by a /eel b> fix$ across ! face ( ! drum z a guide4 ,scrap+ has1 h[ev]1 a fur!r purpose beyond ! removal ( sup]flu\s col\r1 & "o no less important2 = by skilful pressure & rubb+1 ! col\r is caus$ to p5etrate m deeply into ! y>n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai ,a ,,scrap] ,! y>n1 hav+ be5 pr9t$ & scrap$1 has n[ to be tak5 (f ! drum2 a process kn[n z 8/ripp+40 ,! ?reads are loop$ toge!r 9 hanks1 & numb]$ ) a ticket to %[ :i* ?read ea* repres5ts 9 ! design4 ,! drum is s con/ruct$ t a section ( x c be drawn inw>ds ^u a telescopic arm ( ! drum frame4 ,! y>n is ?us releas$ f its t5sion r\nd ! drum face2 & ! /ripp]s1 ins]t+ long /icks "u ! oilclo?1 lift x & ! y>n cle> ( ! drum4 ,"o side ( ! frame :i* c>ries ! drum %aft is made removable to enable ! y>n to be tak5 away4 ,! long hanks are !n ready = /eam+4 ,!y are plac$ ) z little h&l+ z possible ^u lattic$ frames fill$ ) oat-husks4 ,! frames are !n run into an iron-wall$ /eam-*e/1 :i* is securely clos$1 & into :i* /eam is turn$ at high pressure4 ,! effect ( ! /eam pressure & heat is to fix ! col\rs on ! y>n4 ,! op]ation takes ab\t half an h\r4 ,"s mak]s pref] to put ! hanks into net bags = /eam+1 or to lay !m on network frames1 )\t ! bran4 ,b ! fir/ me?od describ$ is probably ! be/1 z ! bran t5ds to absorb ! sup]flu\s col\r1 & prev5ts x f dripp+ f "o hank on to ano!r4 ,aft] /eam+1 ! hanks are ?or\ghly r9s$1 pref]ably by a l>ge rock+ arm fitt$ ) a hook1 9 cold runn+ wat]4 ,! y>n is !n p>tly dri$ 9 a hydro-extractor & f9i%$ 9 a /ove4 ,ea* hank is !n w\nd on to l>ge bobb9s1 :i* are numb]$ s t ! sett]s "k to :i* "p ( ! design ea* belongs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bj ,,pr9t$ ,,?reads ,,set ,,= ,,w9d+ ,,on ,,to ,,! ,,beam ,! next process is sett+4 ,! object ( ! op]ations up to ?is po9t has be5 to make a set ( w>p ?reads :i* conta9 ! patt]n ( ! c>pet 9 an elongat$ =m 9 su* a way t1 :5 wov5 9 ! loom1 ! loops z se5 9 ! c>pet w accurately reproduce ! design4 ,x is ! bus9ess ( ! sett]s to arrange ! ?reads alongside "o ano!r 9 prop] ord] & dress+ s t !y =m ! patt]n1 & to w9d !m ?us arrang$ on to ! w>p beam4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba ,,fig4 #bj ,,z ,,wov5 ,! w>p beam is at "o end ( ! sett+ frame2 ! bobb9-/&1 :i* moves on p9ion feet ^u a rack1 at ! o!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bb ,,/ructure ,,( ,,tape/ry ,,c>pet ,w1 ,wires ,! bobb9s hav+ be5 set 9 prop] ord] on ! v]tical pegs 9 ! bobb9 frame1 ! ends f !m are l$ betwe5 guide rails1 ?r\gh a sley1 ?r\gh two halves ( a clamp1 ov] ! sett+ table1 ?r\gh ano!r sley1 & a second clamp1 on to ! w>p beam4 ,9 ! fir/ in/ance1 ! sett]s hold d[n ! y>n 9 ! clamp next to ! w>p beam4 ,!y !n adju/ & manipulate ! ?reads ov] ! sett+ table1 :i* is m>k$ ) horizontal l9es1 9 accordance ) ! patt]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bc ,,m$ium ,,tape/ry ,,c>pet ,a1 ,*a92 ,b1 ,pile w>p2 ,c1 ,/uff] w>p2 ,e1 ,weft ,! o!r clamp is !n screw$ d[n1 ! fir/ "o unscrew$1 & ! y>n w\nd on to ! beam1 ! bobb9-/& mov+ =w>d along its rack up to ! sett+ table4 ,?is op]ation is cont9u$ until ! :ole ( ! y>n has be5 w\nd f ! bobb9s on to ! beam1 :i* is n[ ready to be put into ! loom & wov54 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bd ,,tape/ry ,,velvet4 #c-,,%ot ,! me?od ( weav+ is sub/antially ! same z ) ,brussels2 & except = ! pile w>p beam1 :i* is g5]ally plac$ high up at ! back ( ! loom1 & = ! abs5ce ( a ,jacqu>d1 ! me*anism ( ! loom is n dissimil>4 ,!re are ?ree heald-frames3 two = ! two halves ( ! cotton *a91 & "o = ! /uff] & ! pile w>p1 ! jute & wor/$ be+ ?read$ ?r\gh two eyelets1 "o bel[ ! o!r4 ,! ,tape/ry loom is run at r a high] spe$ ?an ! ,brussels1 ! ,moxon or swit* pr9ciple ( wire motion1 :i* is g5]ally adopt$1 t5d+ to make ?is possible4 ,a d\ble /uff]1 t is1 two ends ( jute1 ( #ad lb4 or #af lb4 c\nt1 to ea* re$1 is us$ = an av]age quality2 & a treble /uff] :]e great] weight is requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #be ,,tape/ry ,,velvet ,a1 ,*a92 ,b1 ,/uff] w>p2 ,c1 ,pile w>p2 ,d1 ,weft ,tape/ry velvet be>s ! same relation to ! loop$ fabric z ,wilton does to ,brussels1 ! ess5tial diff]5ce be+ ! use ( a knife-end$ wire1 in/ead ( a r\nd wire4 ,! use ( ?ree weft %ots p] r[ ( pile is n1 h[ev]1 ! almo/ inv>iable rule 9 ,tape/ry velvet1 t x is 9 ,wilton4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bf ,,tape/ry ,,velvet4 #b ,,%ots ,,9 ,,! ,,gr\nd ,a ?ree-%ot fabric is1 ( c\rse1 m exp5sive to make ?an a two-%ot2 & !re is also ! consid]ation t1 unless ! pile is pretty high1 ! d\ble %ot on ! top w t5d to make ! surface gr94 ,! me?od1 !re=e1 ( us+ a d\ble %ot 9 ! gr\nd is sometimes adopt$4 7,fig4 #bf47 ,! ,tape/ry bran* ( ! c>pet trade has naturally pass$ ?r\gh a developm5t simil> to t ( o!r makes1 9 t x has f\nd ! dem& pass+ f piece goods to sewn bread? squ>es1 & f !m to seamless c>pets2 & x has progress$ accord+ly4 ,! great] "p ( ! ,tape/ry trade at ! pres5t "t is done 9 squ>es1 & ! enquiry = c>pets #i ft4 & #ab ft4 wide seems to be a gr[+ "o4 ,?is t5d5cy ?r[s additional burd5s on ! manufactur]4 ,squ>e c>pets involve m design+ & m pr9t+ ?an piece goods2 & ! am\nt ( prep>ation requir$ is a v s]i\s item4 ,be=e "o complete c>pet c be produc$1 prep>ations h to be made = f #bjj to #cjj1 or1 9 ! case ( m$allions1 d\ble ! numb]4 ,t is "o ( ! disadvantages ( ! manufacture2 a fur!r defect is inh]5t 9 ! fabric4 ,h[ev] accurately & c>efully ! processes ( pr9t+1 scrap+1 sett+1 & weav+ may be c>ri$ out1 ! transition f "o col\r to ano!r _c be made q sudd5 & complete4 ,! col\r w appe> to h run2 & ! %ade :i* belongs to "o wire w t5d to trespass on to ! next4 ,?is means t ) ,tape/ry x is nev] q possible to produce ! cle>ly-def9$ patt]n effect1 :i* is produc$ 9 ,brussels & ,wilton1 & :i* is naturally look$ = 9 all fabrics ( mod]ately f9e pit*4 ,ap>t f ?is1 ! ,tape/ry c>pet has mu* to comm5d x4 ,x c be produc$ & sold at a mod]ate price2 x c be made seamless1 & x has great pot5tialities ( design2 :ile1 = ^? :o l pl5ty ( col\r1 ! range ( %ades available is practically unlimit$4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,+ra9 ,,! k9d ( c>pet t is v>i\sly call$ ,kidd]m9/]1 ,scot*1 or ,+ra91 diff]s consid]ably f any ( ! c>pets hi!rto describ$4 ,p]haps ess5tially1 & 9 reg>d to texture1 x is mo/ ak9 to h&-wov5 ,tape/ry1 hav+ a flat ribb$ surface1 )\t tufts l ,axm9/] or loops l ,brussels4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bg ,,two-,,ply ,,9 ,,w>p ,,& ,,weft4 ,,section ,,?r\gh ,,w>p ,a ,b1 ,w>p ?reads ( diff]5t col\rs ,x ,y1 ,wefts ( correspond+ col\rs ,! orig9al type ( ?is c>pet 0 ! ,+ra9 or 8,two-ply ,sup]40 ,x 0 made ) a wor/$ w>p trav]s$ by a wooll5 weft1 & 0 wov5 9 pieces #a yd4 wide4 ,! wor/$ w>p 0 col\r$ g5]ally to mat* ! weft1 = :i* two1 ?ree1 or f\r %uttles 7 employ$4 ,! design & col\r effect dep5d$ ^u ! work+ ( ! weft1 ?\gh ! incid5tal appe>ance on ! surface ( ! w>p ?reads1 :i* 7 h>moni\s or neutral 9 %ade1 did n di/urb ! patt]n4 ,!re 7 #a1jhh w>p ends = a full sup] w>p to ! #cf 94 wid? ( fabric1 two to ea* re$1 equal to #edd1 or a pit* ( ab\t #ae p] in*2 :ile ! beat-up conta9$ #ad pairs ( weft to ! in*1 t is1 #ad above & #ad bel[4 ,?is f95ess ( pit* & beat-up admitt$ ( delicate & ambiti\s design+1 & ( clev] & arti/ic effects 9 spite ( ! limitation ( col\rs4 ,! writ] has se5 an ,am]ican ,+ra9 c>pet1 date ab\t #ahic1 repres5t+ ! l&+ ( ,columbus1 :i* 0 admirably drawn & %ad$1 & at a little di/ance might easily h be5 mi/ak5 = a h&-made ,tape/ry4 ,! ,+ra9 c>pet 0 made 9 l>ge quantities at "o "t 9 ! #cf 94 wid? 9 ,scotl&1 ! ,nor? ( ,engl&1 & 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 b is m or less obsolete at ! pres5t "t1 hav+ giv5 way be=e o!r types4 ,developm5ts h be5 9 v>i\s directions1 diff]5t manufactur]s hav+ pursu$ diff]5t improvem5ts 9 looms or 9 textures2 b ! t5d5cy ( ! developm5t has be5 ma9ly 9 ! direction ( r heavi] fabrics & wid] looms4 ,!re are at lea/ z _m z tw5ty diff]5t qualities 9 ?is bran* ( ! c>pet trade at ! pres5t "t1 v>y+ f ea* o!r 9 m or less important p>ticul>s4 ,x mu/ suffice1 h[ev]1 to describe "o or two ( ! fabrics1 illu/rat+ v>iations ( ! ,+ra9 pr9ciple1 ! orig9al type ( :i* has be5 indicat$ above4 ,( rec5t ye>s !re has be5 a consid]able dem& = pla9 col\rs1 & ^! c be made ei!r 9 ! twill or ! pla9 weave4 ,9 ^! fabrics bo? w>p & weft are dy$1 ) ! object ( obta9+ a solid effect4 ,= a twill1 f\r ge>s are requir$2 b ! pla9 or 8,oatmeal0 surface c be obta9$ f two4 ,= two-col\r effects1 !re are d\ble w>ps1 "o ( ea* col\r1 ea* w>p work+ ) ! weft ( ! same %ade4 ,a two-ply c>pet is ?us =m$ 9 su* a way t ! design %[s on ea* surface b ) ! col\rs rev]s$4 ,alt]natively1 a two-col\r effect c be produc$ f wefts ( two %ades only1 work+ ) a black or neutral *a91 ! patt]n be+ obta9$ entirely f ! appe>ance on ! surface1 above ! *a91 ( ! dy$ weft4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bh ,,two-,,ply ,,w>p ,,& ,,weft2 #d ,,col\rs ,,9 ,,ea* ,w>ps3 ,a1 ,black2 ,b1 ,r$2 ,c1 ,:ite2 ,d1 ,olive ,wefts3 ,a1 ,black2 ,b1 ,r$2 ,c1 ,:ite2 ,d1 ,olive ,:]e a m ambiti\s col\r effect is desir$1 f\r w>ps1 ea* ( a diff]5t col\r1 c be employ$ in/ead ( two pairs4 ,^!1 comb9$ 9 diff]5t ways ) f\r wefts ( v>i\s col\rs1 obvi\sly give scope = a great v>iety ( %ade & design4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bi ,,?ree-,,ply ,,w>p ,,& ,,two-,,ply ,,weft4 ,,section ,,?r\gh ,,w>p ,a1 ,black /uff] w>p2 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 ,e1 ,col\r$ w>ps2 ,w1 ,x1 ,y1 ,z1 ,wefts ( same col\rs z ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 ,e ,! s-call$ ,art ,squ>es--n a v satisfactory "n--are g5]ally made ) two col\r$ w>ps1 "o cotton *a91 & "o jute /uff] beam4 ,! design is op]at$1 z1 ( c\rse1 9 _m o!r k9ds ( loom1 by a ,jacqu>d me*anism4 ,! blanks or p]=ations 9 ! patt]n c>ds cause "s ( ! *a9 ?reads to be lift$ up :ile o!rs are left d[n1 ! space betwe5 !m =m+ ! %$1 ?r\gh :i* ! %uttle passes1 c>ry+ ! weft4 ,:]e ! *a9 ends only are lift$1 ! weft w %[2 :]e ! /uff] is rais$1 x w cov] ! weft4 ,!re may be ?ree or f\r %uttles1 ea* c>ry+ a diff]5t col\r$ weft1 & "o or o!r ( ! wefts w appe> on ! surface ( ! c>pet all along ! %ot1 :ile ! rema9d] w rema9 hidd54 ,sometimes "o %uttle c>ries a cotton weft4 ,9 "s weaves ! black /uff] is occasionally br\ght to ! surface s z to obta9 an additional effect1 or1 alt]natively1 a two-col\r *a9 w>p is employ$1 )\t a /uff]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cj ,,?ree-,,ply ,,w>p ,,& ,,weft ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 ,e1 ,f1 ,col\r$ w>ps2 ,u1 ,v1 ,w1 ,x1 ,y1 ,z1 ,col\r$ wefts ,a m complicat$ v>iety ( weave c be made ) ?ree sets ( w>p ?reads1 ea* ( two col\rs1 alt]nately1 & six wefts correspond+ly col\r$4 ,?is produces a fabric ( ?ree textures1 :i* are fa/5$ to ea* o!r at ! po9t ( int]*ange4 ,if1 !re=e1 ! design %\ld involve a l>ge area ( "o col\r or effect1 ?is area is apt to be loose & baggy1 cov]+ a pocket1 :i* is n atta*$ to ! re/ ( ! fabric4 ,?is defect1 h[ev]1 c be ov]come by utilis+ "o ( ! w>ps or wefts to act z a b9d+ ?read4 ,z has be5 intimat$ above1 mod]n developm5ts ( ,+ra9 c>pets h t5d$ 9 ! direction ( wide seamless c>pets1 9 :i* respect ! fabric is on ! same l9es z o!r classes ( c>pet+4 ,! bulk ( ! trade n[ lies 9 ! wide c>pets1 & comp>atively few bread? goods are wov54 ,! mod]n ,art ,squ>e loom is a f9e piece ( me*anism1 inspir+ admiration ) its comp>atively small ,jacqu>d1 its mass ( cordage1 & its +5i\s co-ord9at$ motions4 ,mod]n developm5ts ( fabrics h also be5 9 ! direction ( heavi] goods & co>s] pit*es4 ,mo/ qualities n[ be+ made conta9 #a1jhh w>p ends to ! y>d1 9 /uff] & *a9 comb9$4 ,! y>n n[ us$ is heavi]1 z x has be5 realis$ t a c>pet ne$s weight1 bo? = ! sake ( we>+ qualities1 & 9 ord] t x may lie well on ! floor4 ,! prelim9>y & f9al processes 9 ! manufacture ( ,+ra9 c>pets are sub/antially ! same1 z reg>ds w9d+1 beam+1 f9i%+1 etc41 z = o!r fabrics2 & ^! h be5 already describ$4 ,m5tion may be made1 h[ev]1 ( a w>p+ mill = prep>+ ! w>p beams = wide c>pets4 ,! y>ns are w\nd f bobb9s fix$ 9 a frame1 9 "s conv5i5t multiple ( ! numb] ( ends requir$1 on to a l>ge reel frame or w>p+ mill1 :i* revolves on ei!r a v]tical or horizontal axis4 ,?is frame has a diamet] ( ab\t #ab ft41 s z to enable a long l5g? ( w>p to be w\nd ^u x4 ,:5 ! requir$ numb] ( ends ( ! desir$ l5g?s h be5 w\nd1 !y are unw\nd f ! reel on to a beam1 :i* c be fitt$ into ! beam+ ma*9e1 & deta*$ aga91 s z to g into ! loom4 ,! beam+ ma*9e is adju/able to take diff]5t wid?s ( beam4 ,comp>$ ) "s c>pet fabrics1 ,+ra9 mu/ take a mode/ place4 ,! effects ( design & col\r ( :i* x is capable are limit$2 & ?\gh1 9 !ory1 ! comb9ation ( ?ree or f\r wefts1 ) z _m w>ps ( simil> or diff]5t col\rs1 gives an almo/ indef9ite pot5tial numb] ( col\r comb9ations1 yet 9 practice ^! h _! limits4 ,x w be g5]ally conc$$ t ,+ra9 c>pets are mo/ effective 9 simple & sev]e designs1 us+ few col\rs4 ,nor c x claim to be a luxuri\s c>pet to tread ^u4 ,ev5 ! heavie/ ,+ra9 lacks ! resili5cy1 :i* ! loop$ pile gives to ev5 a *eap ,brussels or ,tape/ry4 ,on ! o!r h&1 x c be v arti/ic )9 its limitations2 & x has ! m]it ( be+ made 9 wide seamless c>pets1 & ( ^! c>pets be+ clean 9 we> & easily h&l$4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,design ,,& ,,col\r ,,c>pet design+ is a bran* ( ,appli$ ,art :i* makes exact+ dem&s ^u its adh]5ts1 requir+ z x does te*nical k to an exceptional ext5t4 ,! av]age design] :o v5tures into ?is field1 h[ev] high 8 arti/ic ability may be1 is n likely to a*ieve a practical success1 unless & until he has /udi$ ! p>ticul> capacities & limitations ( c>pet fabrics4 ,= ?is reason1 ! public c>pet design] is m or less ( a speciali/ 9 8 doma91 :i* is r>ely invad$ unless by su* exceptional craftsm5 z ! late ,walt] ,crane or ,voysey4 ,simil>ly1 & because !re are s _m v>ieties ( c>pet fabrics1 requir+ special k & treatm5t1 all c>pet manufactur]s ma9ta9 private /affs ( design]s1 ^: bus9ess x is to produce new patt]ns = ea* season & quality 9 accordance ) ! comm]cial requirem5ts4 ,= ! manufactur] has to be gov]n$ to a great ext5t by ! ta/es & incl9ations ( 8 cu/om]s1 ! c>pet deal]s1 & _c af=d to be too ent]pris+ 9 initiat+ novelties1 :ile ! c>pet deal]1 9 8 turn is1 z a rule1 r a foll[] ?an a lead] ( ! public ta/e4 ,! comm]cial /&>d has1 !re=e1 be5 to "s ext5t a hamp]+ influ5ce ^u ! progress ( c>pet design t[>ds p]fection1 b x is c]ta9ly less s ?an 9 ! pa/4 ,= x has be5 modifi$ ( rec5t ye>s by a new t5d5cy1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is n "o ( unmix$ advantage to ! manufactur]4 ,?is t5d5cy may be express$ z ! int]v5tion ( ! consum]4 ,sc>city ( mat]ials dur+ ! w>1 & ! consequ5t obligation ( c>pet deal]s to accept :at !y c get f manufactur]s has1 tempor>ily at any rate1 modifi$ ! influ5ce ( ! individual buy] ( c>pets ^u c>pet design & col\r2 b previ\s to ! w> x _h become a factor to be reckon$ )4 ,!re 71 & are1 _m h\sehold]s possess$ ( def9ite ideas ^u arrangem5t ( design1 comb9ation ( col\r1 & h>mony ( decoration2 & ^! ideas (t5 g]m9ate 9 sugge/ions or dem&s convey$ ?r\gh ! deal] to ! manufactur] = s+le c>pets ( special col\r+ or arrangem5t4 ,(t5 ^! sugge/ions prove to be m orig9al ?an effective2 b (t5 !y lead to effects bo? arti/ic & saleable4 ,?is critical & creative _s on ! "p ( ! individual is n1 !re=e1 to be despis$ by ! te*nical exp]t4 ,x enc\rages novelty1 & t5ds t[>ds ! evolution ( new ideas 9 design & col\r1 & a lib]ation f an excessive dom9ance ( ! comm]cial /&>d4 ,f :atev] s\rce1 h[ev]1 ! c>pet manufactur] obta9s 8 ideas = a design1 x is by 8 exp]t /aff1 or by a pr(essional c>pet design]1 t ! ideas mu/ be r$uc$ to a practical =m4 ,& ! te*nical prep>ation ( designs = c>pets is z full ( difficulty z x is ( int]e/4 ,z has be5 indicat$1 ! v>i\s makes ( c>pet diff] f ea* o!r 9 _m respects1 includ+ t ( pit*1 or numb] ( ?reads or r[s p] in*4 ,!y all1 h[ev]1 h ?is 9 common1 t1 anatomically s to speak1 z reg>ds design1 !y are r$ucible to squ>es ( col\r4 ,= ?is reason1 rul$ or po9t pap] is always employ$ 9 ! prep>ation ( ! design1 & pref]ably pap] rul$ s z to repres5t ! full size ( ! wov5 fabric4 ,! design]1 !re=e1 may n repres5t ! curv$ outl9e ( a leaf1 = in/ance1 ) a bold sweep ( 8 bru%1 b mu/ pa9t x c>efully1 squ>e by squ>e1 leav+ actually an outl9e1 :i* is m or less jagg$ accord+ to ! co>s5ess or f95ess ( ! pit*4 ,"h1 at once we recognise a limitation :i* is apt to be irksome to ! untra9$ design] ( c>pets4 ,& :at applies to =m applies also to col\r4 ,!re is no imp]ceptible graduation ( %ade to be a*iev$4 ,ea* p>ticul> squ>e has to be ( "o col\r & no m4 ,aga91 ! design] mu/ consid] ! numb] ( col\rs he is all[$ to employ1 be !y two or a hundr$2 & mu/ "k :e!r !y c be us$ any:]e or only 9 re/rict$ places 9 ! patt]n4 ,!n !re is ! consid]ation ( ! repeat1 ) ! my/]ies ( ! /raight mat*1 rev]se1 drop & half drop2 ( ! wid? ( ! fabric1 body & bord]2 & ( ! v>i\s adju/m5ts ( design requir$ = c>pets ( diff]5t sizes1 :e!r bread? goods1 ,*lidema squ>es1 m$allions1 or seamless4 ,la/1 !re is ! real arti/ic imag9ation t is requir$2 ! art ( see+ f "o repeat h[ a complete c>pet w look1 ( e/imat+ ! diff]5ce 9 appe>ance betwe5 ! flat col\r on ! pap] & ! ri*ness ( ! wool2 ( ! v>iation 9 value ( ! same %ade 9 collocation ) ?is or ) t4 ,f ! above x w be se5 t ! successful c>pet design] has to be bo? craftsman & arti/4 ,! f9i%$ col\r$ design passes into ! h&s ( ! col\ri/1 :o1 :atev] be ! nature ( ! subsequ5t manufactur+ process1 w h ! responsibility ( select+ ! col\r$ y>ns to g into ! fabric4 ,^! w normally1 9 ! fir/ in/ance1 foll[ ! ma9 l9es ( ! %ades ( ! design pap]4 ,!n ! travell]s' samples are made2 & 9 "s fabrics ev51 :]e patt]n mak+ is n practicable1 :ole c>pets or sets ( c>pets are produc$4 ,"s idea c ?us be obta9$ ( ! exp5ses to :i* c>pet manufactur]s are put 9 ! prep>ation ( new designs & col\r+s 7:i*1 9 pre-w> times1 us$ to be done annually1 & ev5 m (t57 be=e a y>d ( c>pet is sold to rec\p !m4 ,! c>pet design] & col\ri/ mu/ h /rict reg>d = ! limitations ( 8 m$ium1 & 9 p>ticul> ! limitations ( pit* & ( col\r4 ,he mu/ "k h[ to employ 9 ! mo/ effective mann]1 ?irty %ades or ?ree1 & :at treatm5t is be/ = a floral design or an ,ori5tal1 9 a f9e or a co>se pit*4 ,( c\rse1 ! same laws ( col\r h>monies & contra/s hold good = ! c>pet col\ri/1 z = ! arti/ 9 any o!r bran*es ( appli$ art2 b ! c>pet arti/ has 8 own p>ticul> problems1 su* z ^? t h be5 indicat$1 & su* z arise1 = in/ance1 f ! fact t c>pets h wool surfaces & lie on ! floor1 & !re=e be> q a diff]5t relation to ! decoration ( a room ?an curta9s or ceil+s4 ,c>pet col\r+s1 ap>t f pla9s1 may be analys$ into self-col\r effects1 two-col\r effects1 & effects ( ?ree or m col\rs4 ,self-col\r or tone-on-tone effects adapt !mselves m easily to a s*eme ( decoration ?an c>pets conta9+ contra/$ col\rs4 ,x seems to be a fact t ! c>pet is ab\t ! la/ ?+ to be ?\ght ( 9 a s*eme ( decoration4 ,x ne$ n be discuss$ :e!r x ought to be s or n4 ,! walls1 curta9s1 tiles1 etc41 are decid$ ^u be=e ! "q ( ! col\r ( ! c>pet arises4 ,9 su* a case1 if a h>moni\s effect is to be ensur$1 !re may be little *oice left 9 ! matt]2 & a self-col\r$ c>pet may be ei!r ! easie/ way out ( ! difficulty1 or an arti/ic necessity4 ,c]ta9ly x is easi] to furni% to2 &1 if x does mean a c]ta9 want ( ambition 9 ! decorative s*eme1 x is simple & satisfy+4 ,self-col\r$ c>pets are also em95tly suitable = small rooms1 especially b$-rooms1 on ! "o h&1 & = !atres & music halls on ! o!r1 p]haps because "o col\r is m re/ful ?an sev]al4 ,! numb] ( %ades us$ v>ies f two to five1 accord+ to ! simplicity or boldness ( ! design4 ,m ?an five are c]ta9ly undesirable1 z x becomes impossible to get /eps ( %ades )\t approa*+ a :ite at ! top & a black at ! bottom2 &1 inde$1 "s ( ! mo/ effective self-col\rs are made 9 ?ree %ades only4 ,two-tone effects ( contra/$ col\rs are n greatly us$4 ,!y are sometimes employ$ 9 small designs1 ) two col\rs only1 or ?ree 7"o & a contra/+ pair71 b m (t5 9 bold designs ( ! ,empire1 ,adam1 or ,w$gwood /yle1 ) ?ree or f\r %ades ( "o col\r1 ^u a gr\nd1 or work+ aga9/ a pair ( %ades1 ( ano!r2 b effective comb9ations on ^! l9es are r>e4 ,by f> ! l>ge/ proportion ( c>pets made are multi-col\r$2 & ne>ly e /yle & fabric is adaptable to treatm5t 9 ?is way4 ,x is impossible to deal prop]ly ) ! "q ( _m-col\r$ c>pets except at great l5g?2 b1 z a basis1 x may be useful to rememb] t !re are only ?ree prim>y col\rs1 & t 9 e multi-col\r$ c>pet !re %\ld be repres5t$ "s r$1 "s yell[1 & "s blue4 ,t is n say+ t ^! %\ld be prim>ies4 ,! r$ may be a t]ra-cotta1 ! yell[ a tan1 ! blue a slate4 ,b if y h =ty %ades 9 a c>pet !y c all 7except1 ( c\rse1 black & :ite7 be sci5tifically analys$ into r$s1 yell[s1 & blues1 ev5 if "s ( !m are second>ies or t]ti>ies4 ,t is to say1 t1 accord+ to its collocation1 a purple w be act+ ei!r z a blue or z a r$1 a gre5 ei!r z a yell[ or z a blue1 & s on4 ,x foll[s1 !re=e1 t 9 practice ! c>pet design] or col\ri/ :o has a l>ge range ( col\rs at 8 disposal w arrange !m 9 sets3 a tan ) a cream1 ?ree blues1 two r$s & a ruby1 & s on4 ,f ?is po9t ( view1 ! manufactur] ( ,wilton is n s hopelessly outclass$ by ! mak] ( ,axm9/] & ,*5ille4 ,) 8 five or six col\rs1 irrespective ( plant+1 he c produce an effect :i* is satisfy+1 & arti/ically p]fect2 ?\gh he may h to use "o %ade1 :]e two or ?ree w\ld give additional s(tness & ri*ness4 ,mu*1 h[ev]1 dep5ds on ! nature ( ! design2 & x is obvi\s t if x is desir$ to repres5t1 say1 a fl[] 9 a naturali/ic mann]1 ! fabric t comm&s a l>ge numb] ( col\rs1 comb9$ ) a reasonably f9e pit*1 w come (f be/4 ,a dictum ( t em95t art-critic1 ,ow5 ,jones1 may p]haps be appropriately quot$ at ?is po9t4 ,9 a lecture on ,decorative ,art he writes-- 8,c>pets %\ld be d>k] 9 tone & m brok5 9 l9e ?an any portion ( a room1 bo? because !y pres5t ! l>ge/ mass ( col\r1 & because !y s]ve z a backgr\nd to ! furniture plac$ ^u !m4 ,z a g5]al rule1 light] c>pets may be us$ 9 rooms ?9ly furni%$ ?an ! contr>y1 z we %\ld o!rwise h too ov]p[]+ a mass ( %ade40 ,all ornam5t1 accord+ to ! s\rce & pr9ciple ( its design1 may be classifi$ z ei!r geometric1 naturali/ic1 or conv5tional4 ,ornam5t ( ! fir/ class consi/s ( app>5tly arbitr>y arrangem5ts ( circles1 squ>es1 spirals1 or int]sect+ l9es1 or repetitions ( simple figures4 ,x is ! natural =m ( expression ( primitive art1 z employ$ by savages or f\nd on prehi/oric rema9s2 b x has be5 develop$ 9 "s /yle1 z1 = example1 ! ,moori%1 into elaborate & beautiful patt]ns4 ,naturali/ic ornam5t is t :i* is closely bas$ ^u natural objects1 especially fl[]s & leaves1 :i* are col\r$ z closely z ! limitations ( ! mat]ial p]mit4 ,conv5tional ornam5t1 :i* may probably be reg>d$ z ! highe/ class1 is bas$ ^u obs]vation ( nature2 b ! natural =ms are n slavi%ly copi$1 b conv5tionalis$1 9 ! s5se ( be+ select$ & simplifi$1 & adapt$ to ! decorative purpose 9 view4 ,?is classification holds good ( c>pet design1 z = o!r doma9s ( appli$ art2 & x may be int]e/+ to trace ! developm5t ( ! fa%ion ( c>pet decoration ) ?is classification 9 view4 ,! geometric /yle is *>act]i/ic ( ! y\?ful days ( ,briti% c>pets1 & 0 at its z5i? 9 ,e>ly ,victorian times4 ,designs ( ?is class1 r elaborate ?an simple 9 draw+1 7 associat$ ) bright & /rongly contra/$ col\rs1 :ile black gr\nds1 at once ! mo/ effective & ! mo/ difficult ( all gr\nd %ades1 7 greatly 9 vogue4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t ( late we h return$ to ! use ( black1 = _m ye>s an outlaw col\r2 ?\gh x is employ$ n[ 9 a m arti/ic mann] ?an x 0 sixty ye>s ago4 ,) ! lat] ,victorian times is associat$ ! developm5t ( ! naturali/ic /yle 9 c>pets z 9 o!r decorative fabrics2 fl[]s1 s+ly or 9 b\quets1 be+ depict$ 9 bright col\rs z ne> to ,nature z ! te*nical limitations p]mitt$4 ,?is /yle may p]haps be reg>d$ z fl\ri%+ until gradually *eck$ or sob]$ by conv5tionalis+ influ5ces1 & notably t ( ,william ,morris1 to :om1 inde$1 x is n too mu* to attribute a revolution 9 ! decorative po9t ( view4 ,b ?is revolution 0 bo? sl[ & p>tial2 & ! naturali/ic /yle1 f\nd$1 z x is no d\bt1 ^u a love ( ,nature innate 9 man1 is too deeply root$ ev] to lose its popul>ity completely4 ,x is /ill ) u4 ,& :y n8 ,fl[]s1 ?\gh n meant to be trodd5 "u foot1 are r\nd ab\t our feet2 & !y make a d\ble appeal to ! c>pet design] ( intr9sic beauty1 & ( fitness = gr\nd decoration4 ,a gre5 gr\nd c>pet ) p9k roses1 z ne> z may be to life1 repres5ts no d\bt some?+ ( ! aspiration ( ! dwell] 9 t[n = ! c\ntry2 & :o %all say t x is unwor?y8 ,ow5 ,jones is aga9 wor? quot+ 9 ?is connection1 ev5 if 8 /rictures seem excessively sev]e4 ,he says-- 8,i w say no m on ! floral /yle1 b to express a regret t1 ! m p]fect ! manufactur+ process 9 c>pets becomes1 ! m d !y 7! c>pets7 appe> to l5d !mselves to evil4 ,! mode/ ,kidd]m9/] c>pet r>ely goes wrong1 because x _c2 x has to deal ) b two col\rs1 & consequ5tly mu* mis*ief is beyond its rea*4 ,! ,brussels c>pet1 :i* deals ) five col\rs1 is m mis*iev\s4 ,! ,tape/ry c>pet1 :]e ! col\rs are /ill m num]\s1 are vici\s 9 ! extreme2 :il/ ! rec5t inv5tion ( pr9t$ c>pets1 ) no b\nds to its ambition1 has become positively crim9al40 ,b ! supremacy ( ! naturali/ic /yle long s9ce pass$ away1 & gave place t[>ds ! end ( la/ c5tury to ! conv5tional1 ,!re 0 a v def9ite movem5t 9 ?is direction1 aris+ p]haps 9 ! fir/ in/ance f ! ,morris influ5ce1 b c>ri$ =w>d notably by ,! ,/udio1 ! ,arts & ,crafts ,exhibition1 & by su* arti/s z ,c4 ,f4 ,a4 ,voysey1 ,walt] ,crane1 ,g4 ,c4 ,hait1 ,ar?ur ,silv]1 & _m o!rs4 ,! conv5tional /yle is p>ticul>ly suitable to c>pets1 9 t x possesses great decorative possibilities1 & cont9ually rem9ds ! occupant ( a room ( beautiful objects 9 ,nature1 )\t delib]ately *all5g+1 z 9 ! naturali/ic /yle1 comp>isons1 :i* c only be disadvantage\s4 ,?is /yle rea*$ ! summit ( its popul>ity ab\t ! fir/ ye>s ( ! c5tury & has s9ce decl9$1 ?\gh x is by no means ext9ct4 ,its decl9e may be regrett$1 if only = ! reason t x is "o ( ! v few /yles ( design 9 c>pets :i* c claim to be di/9ctly ,briti%4 ,x left beh9d x a successor1 h[ev]1 :i* enjoy$ a few ye>s ( public fav\r4 ,?is is ! tape/ry or v]dure /yle1 :]e9 fl[]s1 fruit1 & leaves are treat$ 9 a half-conv5tional mann]1 g5]ally on a well-cov]$ gr\nd4 ,?is really /&s half-way betwe5 ! naturali/ic & ! conv5tional /yles4 ,x may be ! jo9t (fspr+ ( ! two1 a m exub]ant ,morris type1 or a m *a/5$ floral *9tz2 :ile x seems n unlikely t x 0 introduc$ f ,g]many1 :]e x 0 c]ta9ly v popul> at "o "t4 ,!n we pass$ into an era ( reproductions4 ,examples ( ma/]pieces ( decoration1 & especially ^? ( ,ori5tal art1 h always1 & rightly1 be5 /udi$ by c>pet design]s1 & frequ5tly reproduc$ by c>pet manufactur]s 9 ! pa/2 b nev] to su* an ext5t z dur+ ! ye>s prec$+ ! w>4 ,! c>pet trade ( t "t 0 dom9at$ by ! cult ( ! antique ,ea/]n c>pet2 & a v l>ge proportion ( ! production ( ,briti% c>pets 0 ^u ,p]sian & ,indian /yles1 :ile subsequ5tly ! ,*9ese came 9 = m>k$ att5tion4 ,f "o po9t ( view1 ?is 0 all to ! good2 = ! bir?place ( ! c>pet 0 ! ,ori5t1 & old ,ea/]n c>pets are classics1 j z ! works ( ,hom]1 ,v]gil1 ,h&el1 or ,velasquez are classics4 ,competition among manufactur]s 0 ke52 & close & beautiful reproductions ( ! be/ antique ,ori5tal c>pets 7 (f]$ to ! public1 di/+ui%$ 9 design1 s(t 9 col\r+1 & l5d+ !mselves readily to h>moni\s s*emes ( decoration4 ,b f ano!r aspect ?is era 0 less satisfactory4 ,! ma/]pieces ( ,p]sia & ,asia ,m9or1 s eag]ly s\ght out1 7 n /udi$ z models1 to be adapt$ to mod]n ideas & requirem5ts1 z inspirations1 or bases = new effects4 ,!y 7 apt to be slavi%ly copi$1 l9e = l9e & %ade = %ade1 z f> z ! limitations ( ! ma*9e-made fabric p]mitt$4 ,a manufactur] w\ld boa/3 8,?is is an exact reproduction ( ! fam\s c>pet ( s-&-s1 made 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury02 n3 8,?is is a beautiful c>pet4 ,p]sian 9 feel+40 ,?is sort ( ?+ did n make = progress1 nor = orig9ality & initiative 9 ! design1 b l$ to a c]ta9 monotony & arre/$ progress1 ?\gh ! beauty ( ! productions 0 inconte/able4 ,! next /age 9 ! developm5t ( c>pet design 0 v int]e/+4 ,a slight1 b inevitable reaction set 9 aga9/ ! dom9ance ( close reproductions ( ,p]sian & o!r c>pets ( ! ,ne> ,ea/4 ,c>pets 9 ! *>act]i/ic decorative /yles ( o!r c\ntries1 & ( o!r ages1 7 attempt$4 ,! ,f> ,ea/ furni%$ ! fir/ dep>ture f ! ,p]sian dom9ation2 & ! ri* /ores ( ,*9ese & ,japanese ornam5t 7 drawn ^u1 ) v satisfactory results4 ,!n ! c>pet manufactur] & design] /ruck out m boldly1 & invad$ any l& or p]iod ^: p>ticul> /yle ( decoration c\ld be conv]t$ to ! arti/ic purposes ( ! indu/ry4 ,l\is ,,xiv1 ,l\is ,,xvi1 ,rococo1 ,italian ,r5aissance1 ,empire1 ,adam1 ,georgian1 ,que5 ,anne1 & o!r p]iods 7 laid "u contribution2 & x 0 no less a cle> dem& on ! "p ( ! deal] & ! public 7to ^: %>e due cr$it mu/ be giv57 ?an a po9t ( hon\r ) ! manufactur]1 t e design %\ld be pure & true to its p>ticul> /yle4 ,?is involv$ k & /udy1 & t5d$ to re/ore ! design] & col\ri/ to 8 prop] position z a creative arti/ f t ( a m]e copyi/1 to :i* he _h be5 9 "s dang] ( s9k+4 ,! ,futuri/1 ,cubi/1 ,vortici/ movem5t1 :atev] its effect has be5 9 ! _w ( ,f9e ,art1 has _h b little influ5ce ^u c>pet design & col\r4 ,b p]haps ?is is yet to come4 ,!re has be5 "o m /age 9 ! developm5t ( c>pet design1 :i* may be reg>d$ z a "p (1 b slightly diff]5t f1 ! p]iod-/udy /age4 ,?is may be call$ ! ,ar*aeological4 ,! art ( ,greece & ,rome1 ap>t f ! sup]b acan?us scroll1 has left little t l5t itself to c>pet decoration2 b old] civilisations h be5 drawn ^u2 & ! f9ely conv5tionalis$ ornam5t ( ,anci5t ,egypt1 ,*aldea1 & ,assyria1 has be5 utilis$ 9 h>moni\s & dignifi$ c>pets4 ,nor is ?is t5d5cy likely to be arre/$1 z long z fre% fields c be f\nd t w repay exploration4 ,all ?is is extremely heal?y & /imulat+ = ! indu/ry4 ,x involves /udy & ef=t & orig9ality2 & x makes = real progress4 ,! consum] ( c>pets has be5 gr[+ m discrim9at+1 j z he has be5 gr[+ m eclectic4 ,8 ta/e is v>i$3 he may buy a ,hamadan design or a ,celtic2 b he w want x pure 9 /yle1 & well col\r$4 ,he is int]e/$ 9 a little ar*aeology2 b he likes a s\nd design bett] ?an ar*aeology1 & f9ds a good col\r+ m important /ill4 ,:at developm5ts ! future holds 9 /ore x is impossible to say4 ,x may be t we %all h a reaction f ?is1 eclecticism1 ?is cosmopolitanism ( ta/e1 to a m insul> vogue2 t we %all ev5 evolve a ,tw5tie? ,c5tury ,briti% /yle 9 c>pets z *>act]i/ic z ! ,egyptian or ! ,r5aissance4 ,mean:ile1 "s indication has be5 giv5 ( ! /eps by :i* ! c>pet trade has rea*$ ! high & v>i$ /&>d ( excell5ce 9 design & col\r :i* x enjoys to-day4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,/ati/ics ,,! ,briti% c>pet manufactur+ trade _c claim to comp>e 9 size ) ! l>g] indu/ries ( ! c\ntry2 b ! figures :i* foll[ w give "s measure ( its ext5t4 ,x %\ld be premis$ t1 ow+ to ! di/urbance ( ! indu/ry caus$ by w> conditions1 x is necess>y to g back to #aiac to obta9 figures :i* c be reg>d$ z approximately normal4 ,!re are =ty-five firms engag$ 9 ! manufacture ( c>pets1 ( :om elev5 are locat$ 9 ,scotl&1 n9e 9 ! ,nor? ( ,engl&1 eighte5 9 ,kidd]m9/] & di/rict1 & sev5 9 o!r p>ts ( ! c\ntry4 ,kidd]m9/] is ?us1 bo? 9 ! numb] ( manufactur]s1 & 9 its productive capacity1 ! mo/ important c5tre ( ! trade4 ,!re are ab\t #d1ejj looms ( v>i\s k9ds & wid?s 9 ! :ole trade1 ( :i* numb] ,brussels & ,wilton looms1 ,*5ille1 & ,tape/ry ea* contribute ab\t #be p] c5t41 ,axm9/] #ag p] c5t41 & ,+ra91 h&-tuft$1 & sundry looms ! balance4 ,! total numb] ( employees 9 ! trade be=e ! w> 0 #cf1jjj1 ( :i* r m ?an "o-qu>t] 7 male4 ,dur+ ! w> ! total 0 r$uc$ to ab\t #ej p] c5t4 ,! av]age annual consumption ( wool may be tak5 z ab\t #h1jjj tons2 :i*1 e/imat+ a fleece z ab\t #flb4 9 weight1 repres5ts ! wool produc$ ye>ly by #c1jjj1jjj %eep4 ,! consumption ( jute 0 f #ae1jjj to #bj1jjj tons2 ( cotton ab\t #ac1jjj tons2 ( l95 #h1jjj to #aj1jjj tons2 & ( coal ab\t #ajj1jjj tons p] annum4 ,! export trade is an important bran*1 z w be se5 f ! foll[+ tables = #aiac & #aiah1 pr9t$ "h by ! c\rtesy ( ! ,kidd]m9/] ,%uttle-- ,,c>pet ,,exports 7,9 ! foll[+ details ( ,c>pets1 ,rugs are includ$47 ,quantities = ,twelve ,mon?s end$-- ,decemb]1 #aiab4 ,decemb]1 #aiac4 ,g]many #abb1djj #ia1bjj ,ne!rl&s #cci1ajj #djb1cjj ,belgium #fh1ijj #ee1bjj ,france #ga1ijj #fc1gjj ,spa9 & ,can>ies #ga1cjj #dg1cjj ,unit$ ,/ates #adb1jjj #acg1cjj ,*ili #dai1djj #cch1gjj ,arg5t9e ,republic #cia1ejj #dji1jjj ,au/ralia #a1gjd1gjj #a1hba1cjj ,new ,zeal& #eee1djj #eba1ejj ,canada #b1gcj1cjj #b1efi1cjj ,o!r ,c\ntries #b1aid1ijj #b1adf1ajj -------- -------- ,total ,squ>e ,y>ds #h1haa1hjj #h1fjb1ijj ,,c>pet ,,exports ,value = ,twelve ,mon?s end$-- ,decemb]1 #aiab4 ,decemb]1 #aiac4 ,g]many #cg1ihb #bg1hec ,ne!rl&s #fj1afa #gb1edd ,belgium #aa1jji #i1heh ,france #ah1dee #ag1geg ,spa9 & ,can>ies #af1efi #h1aic ,unit$ ,/ates #ee1fcd #fj1fhh ,*ili #ed1hji #ej1ich ,arg5t9e ,republic #gb1hgi #gb1jbg ,au/ralia #bif1ffd #ccd1acg ,new ,zeal& #hi1igb #ia1aaj ,canada #dej1aai #ddi1aja ,o!r ,c\ntries #cda1bgg #cdb1gah ---------- ---------- ,,total #a1eje1ecj #a1ecf1ibd ,,c>pet ,,exports ,quantities = ,twelve ,mon?s end$-- ,decemb]1 #aiag4 ,decemb]1 #aiah4 ,ne!rl&s #bhj1cjj #a1jjj ,france #aac1bjj #ahc1ajj ,spa9 & ,can>ies #ed1fjj #cb1cjj ,unit$ ,/ates ( #bih1ijj #hi1ijj ,am]ica ,*ile #aad1ajj #aeb1bjj ,arg5t9e ,republic #bbh1jjj #bah1ijj ,au/ralia #hea1hjj #heb1ejj ,new ,zeal& #bbb1ajj #ig1gjj ,canada #hhf1ijj #bci1hjj ,o!r ,c\ntries #a1dhb1ijj #a1aea1jjj ---------- ---------- ,total ,squ>e ,y>ds #d1ecb1hjj #c1jah1djj ,,c>pet ,,exports ,value = ,twelve ,mon?s end$-- ,decemb]1 #aiag4 ,decemb]1 #aiah4 ,ne!rl&s #hh1cjg #ejb ,france #ee1cfh #abj1ihb ,spa9 & ,can>ies #ag1jjh #ad1hjc ,unit$ ,/ates ( #aij1egb #ga1gij ,am]ica ,*ile #cj1jgf #fc1eab ,arg5t9e ,republic #ga1iae #ie1bcg ,au/ralia #bcg1fcd #ccj1bhg ,new ,zeal& #eh1icg #cf1bfj ,canada #bjf1feh #gj1abj ,o!r ,c\ntries #dah1dcb #dgj1hih ---------- ---------- ,,total #a1cgd1ijg #a1bgd1cia ,,c>pet ,,imports ,squ>e ,value4 ,yds4 ,imports ( ,c>pets #a1hed1eii #fhg1jbf & ,c>pet ,rugs1 #aiab ,imports ( ,c>pets #a1ife1jjj #fih1cga & ,c>pet ,rugs1 #aiac ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,employ]s ,,& ,,employ$ ,,c>pet manufacture1 z already expla9$ 9 ! =ego+ pages1 comprises a good _m diff]5t processes & fabrics2 & x c be readily und]/ood t ! mak+ ( ,wilton c>pets1 = in/ance1 may require n only a diff]5t plant & /aff f ^? ne$$ = ,+ra9 or ,axm9/]1 b ev5 a diff]5t manufactur+ & sell+ policy4 ,f ^! & o!r consid]ations x comes ab\t t1 9 practice1 c>pet manufactur]s are incl9$ to specialise 9 "o fabric1 & to re/rict !mselves to mak+ two or ?ree1 ?\gh ?is is n to be reg>d$ z by any means an inv>iable rule4 ,z a result1 ! int]e/ 9 any "o fabric w be f\nd to be conf9$ to a limit$ numb] ( manufactur]s1 & n to be ext5d$ ov] ! :ole trade2 :ile ne>ly all manufactur]s are int]e/$ 9 m ?an "o fabric4 ,9 default ( any g5]al association ( c>pet manufactur]s1 ! t5d5cy 9 ! pa/ has be5 = ! :ole or ! l>ge majority ( manufactur]s int]e/$ 9 a fabric to =m an ,association = ! control ( qualities & prices 9 t fabric only4 ,?us1 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 & ,d make ,axm9/] c>pets & =m an ,axm9/] ,association2 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 & ,e are memb]s ( a ,brussels & ,wilton ,association2 ,a1 ,c1 ,e1 & ,f ( a ,tape/ry ,association1 & s on4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 !re h be5 9 exi/5ce = a good _m ye>s a ,brussels & ,wilton ,c>pet ,manufactur]s' ,association1 work+ 9 close co-op]ation ) an ,axm9/] ,association1 & a ,victorian 7,*5ille7 ,association2 :ile ! mak]s ( ,tape/ry c>pets h an organisation ( _! own4 ,( rec5t ye>s1 ano!r body 0 add$1 ! ,c>pet ,manufactur]s' ,f$]ation1 ^: special function 0 ! control ( ! l[] qualities ( ,brussels & ,wilton1 :i* ! exi/+ ,brussels & ,wilton ,association did n claim to regulate4 ,! organisations enum]at$ comprise ! l>ge majority ( ! mak]s ( ! v>i\s c>pet fabrics conc]n$2 & !y h controll$ ! prices & t]ms obta9+ 9 ! trade on ! :ole 9 a v effective mann]1 ?\gh subject always to ! some:at di/urb+ influ5ce ( ! manufactur]s rema9+ outside ! ,associations4 ,( ^!1 h[ev]1 ! great] numb] h habitually foll[$ ! /&>d ( prices & sell+ conditions set by ! ,associations4 ,on ! :ole1 !n1 ^! trade organisations h done good "w4 ,c]ta9ly !y _c be accus$ ( gre$9ess 9 advanc+ prices too quickly or too mu*1 or ( undue /r+5cy 9 conditions ( sale4 ,! value & am\nt ( control ex]cis$ by ^! ,associations h be5 p>tly condition$ by _! mutual relations4 ,int]communication betwe5 ! diff]5t bodies & jo9t meet+s has already contribut$ to ! solution ( "s difficulties common to ! trade2 b m might be done 9 ?is direction4 ,no d\bt an ideal organisation w\ld be an ,association ( ! :ole indu/ry1 ) sections = ea* bran* ( x4 ,! "w ( ! ,associations has includ$ ! /&>disation ( a c]ta9 numb] ( qualities 9 v>i\s fabrics2 &1 inde$1 )\t su* /&>disation ! fix+ ( prices 9 a satisfactory mann] is almo/ an impossibility4 ,9 ! int]e/s ( all conc]n$1 includ+1 x may be confid5tly ass]t$1 bo? ! c>pet deal] & ! ultimate consum]1 ?is /&>disation1 c\pl$ ) a r$uction 9 ! numb] ( qualities produc$1 might v well be ext5d$4 ,! trade has be5 unnecess>ily complicat$ 9 ! pa/ by ! exi/5ce ( qualities diff]+ f ea* o!r by a small p]c5tage ( value1 & puzzl+ to ! buy]4 ,c>pet manufactur]s are !mselves p>tly to blame = ?is multiplication ( fabrics1 ! outcome ( an extravagant competition1 involv+ ne$less exp5se 9 production1 :i* fell1 ( c\rse1 ultimately ^u ! consum]4 ,w> conditions h made a clean sweep ( _m ( !m3 x is to be hop$ t !y w n recur4 ,! c>pet indu/ry 0 f ! fir/ a great suff]] f ! /ate ( affairs br\ght ab\t by ! decl>ation ( w>4 ,9 ! e>ly days1 cancels & a susp5sion ( ord]s necessitat$ a rec\rse to %ort "t2 :ile lat]1 z a s-call$ 8,luxury ,trade10 x did n seem likely to meet ) mu* consid]ation at ! h&s ( ! au?orities 9 respect ( protection giv5 to its p]sonnel1 or ( ! provision ( adequate raw mat]ials4 ,^! difficulties br\ght c>pet manufactur]s clos] toge!r ?an be=e2 & committees repres5t+ ! :ole trade 7 =m$ = ! protection ( its int]e/s 9 ! above connections4 ,ultimately1 :5 ! "q ( ! ration+ ( wool & o!r raw mat]ials necess>y to ! indu/ry became p>am\nt1 a ,committee ( ! trade 0 =m$1 entitl$ ! ,c>pet ,trade ,ration+ ,committee4 ,?is ,committee 0 recognis$ by ! ,w> ,(fice1 & responsible directly to ! ,wool ,control ,bo>d4 ,s9ce ,june1 #aiag1 x 0 occupi$ ) ! allocation ( wool to sp9n]s1 & ( wor/$ & wooll5 y>ns1 & subsequ5tly jute1 to c>pet manufactur]s4 ,! di/ribution1 ( c\rse1 dep5d$ ^u ! am\nt allott$ to ! c>pet trade by ! ,wool ,control ,bo>d1 & _h to be made ) due reg>d to ! ne$s ( c>pet manufactur]s1 _! pre-w> consumption1 _! /ocks1 etc4 ,x 0 an ardu\s & invidi\s task2 & ! fact t x 0 c>ri$ ?r\gh ) sc>cely a compla9t1 & t1 9 spite ( sev]e %ortage ( mat]ial at times1 no firm 0 ev] oblig$ to %ut d[n1 reflects great cr$it on all conc]n$4 ,lab\r 0 repres5t$ on ?is ,committee by "o memb] f ea* bran* ( ! ,c>pet ,trade ,unions1 9 ,scotl&1 ! ,nor? ( ,engl&1 & ,kidd]m9/]4 ,! publication ( ! ,:itley ,report br\ght g5]al recognition t effective co-op]ation ( employ]s & employ$ 0 a necessity = ! future prosp]ity ( ! c>pet indu/ry1 no less ?an = o!r trades1 & t ?is c\ld be/ be br\ght ab\t by an organisation z fully repres5tative ( ! employ]s z ! ,affiliation ( ,c>pet ,trade ,unions 0 ( ! employees4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( #aiah a s*eme 0 put =w>d by ! late ,sir ,*>les ,b9e ,r5%aw = ! =mation ( a ,briti% ,c>pet ,manufactur]s' ,association = ! :ole trade1 compos$ ( delegates f ?ree ,di/rict ,associations1 repres5t+ ! ,scotti%1 ,nor? ( ,engl&1 & ,kidd]m9/] ,area ,c>pet ,manufactur]s respectively4 ,! object ( ^! ,associations 0 ! protection ( ! g5]al int]e/s ( ! trade1 & 9 p>ticul> ! settlem5t ( que/ions ( wages & employm5t 9 co-op]ation ) accr$it$ repres5tatives ( ,c>pet ,trade ,unions4 ,! ,scotti% ,manufactur]s 7 ! fir/ to =m _! ,di/rict ,association1 b 7 foll[$ 9 due c\rse by ^? ( ! o!r two areas4 ,! ,trade ,unions ( ! c>pet indu/ry 7 naturally local 9 orig94 ,! ,midl& bran* 0 f\nd$ 9 #ahff1 "u ! title 8,! ,kidd]m9/] & ,/\rport ,unit$ ,brussels ,p[] ,loom ,c>pet ,weav]s' ,fri5dly ,society40 ,9 #ahfh1 ! "n 0 alt]$ to 8,! ,p[] ,loom ,c>pet ,weav]s' ,mutual ,def5ce & ,provid5t ,association10 ?\gh g5]ally spok5 ( z ! ,c>pet ,weav]s' ,association2 & ?is title held good until #aiag1 :5 ! textile work]s1 bo? male & female1 7 admitt$ to memb]%ip1 & ! "n 0 f9ally alt]$ to 8,! ,p[] ,loom ,c>pet ,weav]s' & ,textile ,work]s' ,association40 ,! orig9al headqu>t]s ( ! ,society 0 ! ,v9e ,inn1 ,horsefair2 b 9 #ahgj a room 0 r5t$ f ! ,workm5's ,club1 at #bh ,*ur* ,/reet1 :]e ! bus9ess 0 c>ri$ on up to #ahhg4 ,9 ?is ye> ! ,association 0 transf]r$ to #aje ,mill ,/reet1 :]e x has rema9$ until its rec5t move next door1 to ,no4 #ajf4 ,al?\gh ! orig9al raison d'tre ( ! organisation 0 t ( a ,trade ,def5ce ,association1 x v soon took up :at is kn[n z ,fri5dly ,society "w2 = z e>ly z #ahfg accid5t & fun]al b5efits 7 be+ paid2 sick pay 0 comm5c$ 9 #ahfh2 & 9 #ahgg x 0 decid$ to use funds = sup]annuation claims4 ,x is int]e/+ to record t at ! beg9n+ ( #aiai !re 7 #eb memb]s on ! sup]annuation li/1 includ+ "s ( ! m5 :o help$ to f\nd ! ,association1 su* z ,noah ,cooke 7#he71 ,?omas ,?at*] 7#ie71 ,b4 ,b>b]1 & sev]al o!rs n[ well advanc$ 9 ye>s4 ,! ,association has gradually ext5d$ ! scope ( its b5efits to memb]s until we f9d t1 = ! ye> end+ ,decemb]1 #aiag1 out ( an income ( #a1gag #js4 #h;d4 no less ?an #a1cia #ais4 #aj;d4 0 disburs$ 9 ,fri5dly ,society b5efits1 subscriptions1 & donations4 ,! foll[+ figures1 %[+ ! total am\nts paid out = b5efits to ! sick & disabl$1 = sup]annuation1 & = fun]als1 w convey "s idea ( ! great ext5t ( ! activity ( ! ,society 9 ?is direction s9ce its =mation-- s4 d4 ,sick ,pay #bf1fch #ah #a ,sup]annuation #ag1bbc #j #i ,fun]als #h1eeh #ag #b ,9 addition to ^! am\nts1 v>i\s sums h be5 appli$ to o!r useful purposes4 ,= in/ance1 9 ! ye> #ahig1 #bba 0 sp5t 9 assi/+ memb]s :o 7 unemploy$1 & 9 succe$+ ye>s sev]al small] am\nts h be5 sp5t 9 ! same way4 ,ov] #acj 0 di/ribut$ 9 #aijf to memb]s :o wi%$ to emigrate1 & lat] ab\t #ajj = ! same purpose4 ,?anks to ! good relations :i* h subsi/$ betwe5 employ]s & employ$1 & :i* x is to be hop$ w cont9ue1 ! am\nt sp5t 9 trade disputes has be5 v small4 ,dur+ ! mo/ fl\ri%+ days ( ! ,brussels & ,wilton trade1 ! actual numb] ( memb]s on ! books rea*$ #a1fjj4 ,?is gradually fell to #hjj1 includ+ sup]annuat$ memb]s1 9 ! e>ly "p ( #aiag4 ,9 t ye>1 h[ev]1 ! rules 7 alt]$ to admit ! textile work]s to memb]%ip2 & ! numb] on ! books at ! beg9n+ ( #aiai 0 r ov] #c1jjj4 ,! ,association has a long & hon\rable record to look back ^u4 ,x has play$ a useful "p 9 ! indu/rial life ( ! community1 x has treat$ its memb]s well1 & has e>n$ ! respect ( ! manufactur]s4 ,no d\bt1 "u ! new conditions1 x w d no less well 9 ! future4 ,! ,nor!rn ,c\nties ,c>pet ,trades ,association 0 e/abli%$ 9 #ahib by a few en?usia/s at ,halifax1 "u ! title ( 8,! ,halifax ,brussels ,c>pet ,weav]s' ,association40 ,memb]%ip 0 conf9$ to ^? work+ z ,jacqu>d weav]s until ,june1 #aijd1 :5 ! "n 0 *ang$ to 8,! ,nor!rn ,c\nties ,p[] ,loom ,weav]s' ,association10 mak+ x possible to accept z memb]s all p[]-loom weav]s4 ,a fur!r alt]ation 0 made 9 ! title & con/itution 9 #aiac1 :5 ! ,association 0 regi/]$ "u its pres5t "n1 s9ce :5 x has accept$ z memb]s any p]son engag$ 9 ! indu/ry4 ,! ,association has bran*es at ,halifax1 ,s[]by ,bridge1 ,heckmondwike1 ,ro*dale1 & ,man*e/]1 ) a memb]%ip ( approximately #a1bjj4 ,up to ! end ( #aiah ! ,association has disburs$ 9 provid5t b5efits ! foll[+ am\nts-- s4 d4 ,dea? #bcf #j #j ,play+ = ,"w #c1hhg #ag #c ,out ( ,"w #def #ah #b ,grants #bdf #i #j ,emigration ,grants #bfj #ah #d ,sick ,pay #bff #j #c ,paym5t ( sick pay 0 discont9u$ :5 ! ,national ,heal? ,insurance ,act came into =ce4 ,previ\s to #ahgd1 ! int]e/s ( ! work]s 9 ! c>pet trade 9 ,scotl& 7 ve/$ 9 a m or less irregul> =m ( a ,trade ,union1 ^: activities 7 ma9ly direct$ by ! work]s 9 ,glasg[2 b ) ! developm5t ( ! ,trade ,union movem5t 9 ! sev5ties1 sev]al ef=ts 7 made by a few en?usia/s to =m a regul> society4 ,aft] _m futile attempts 9 ?is direction1 a conf]5ce 0 ultimately held 9 ! ,/4 ,mungo ,hotel1 ,glasg[1 on #g? ,m>*1 #ahgd1 :5 ! foll[+ att5d$ z repres5tatives ( _! respective di/ricts-- ,,bonnyrigg4--,mr4 ,john ,craig4 ,,glasg[4--,messrs4 ,john ,mit*ell1 ,rob]t ,logan1 ,?omas ,ramsay4 ,,gl5patrick 7,eld]slie74--,messrs4 ,john ,mill]1 ,james ,mc,lellan4 ,,paisley4--,messrs4 ,james ,mc,naughton1 ,william ,f9dlay4 ,,rosl9 7,mid-,lo?ian74--,mr4 ,james ,arm\r4 ,,kilm>nock4--,mr4 ,james ,"y4 ,mr4 ,william ,f9dlay1 ( ,paisley1 0 call$ to preside ov] ! conf]5ce2 & ,mr4 ,?omas ,ramsay1 ( ,glasg[1 0 appo9t$ ,secret>y4 ,aft] ! v>i\s repres5tatives _h express$ _! op9ions = & aga9/ ! =mation ( a ,union on progressive l9es1 x 0 ultimately agre$ t a ,protective & ,provid5t ,union be =m$1 & t memb]s be giv5 ! option ( jo9+ ei!r = ,trade ,protection & ,sick & ,fun]al ,b5efit1 or = ,trade ,protection only1 by pay+ ! weekly contribution ( #d;d4 or #b;d4 p] week respectively4 ,x 0 fur!r decid$ at ?is conf]5ce t ! fir/ ,executive ,committee be compos$ ( six memb]s f ,glasg[1 & "o ea* f ,paisley & ,gl5patrick4 ,?us we h ! orig9 ( ! pres5t 8,scot* ,p[] ,looms ,c>pet ,trade ,protective & ,provid5t ,association40 ,accord+ to ! con/itution ( ! ,association z x !n exi/$1 ! ,executive ,committee _h ! p[] to appo9t its own (ficials2 & on #i? ,m>*1 #ahgd1 ,mr4 ,rob]t ,logan & ,mr4 ,?omas ,ramsay1 bo? ( ! ,glasg[ ,bran*1 7 elect$ ,presid5t & ,secret>y respectively4 ,at a meet+ held on #ai? ,april1 #ahgd1 ! ,secret>y intimat$ t ! organisation 0 proce$+ v satisfactorily4 ,up to ?is date1 #ajb memb]s _h jo9$ = ! full b5efits & #hc = trade b5efits2 ,bonnyrigg be+ ! only bran* :i* _h n respond$ to ! call = organisation4 ,9 ,febru>y1 #ahge1 a jo9t conf]5ce ) ! ,engli% work]s 0 held 9 ,halifax1 = ! dual purpose ( solicit+ assi/ance = ! ,gl5patrick work]s1 :o 7 !n on /rike1 & ) a view to a ?or\gh organisation ( ! :ole ( ! work]s 9 ! trade4 ,"s good f9ancial assi/ance 0 obta9$1 b ! organisation 0 n z successful z might h be5 expect$1 al?\gh ,kidd]m9/] plac$ _! exp]i5ce at ! disposal ( all ! work]s1 ,! next few ye>s 7 tak5 up 9 purely local affairs2 & 9 ,febru>y1 #ahha1 ! "q ( an uni=m price li/ = ,tape/ry weav+ & ty+-9 0 discuss$2 & a draft s*eme 0 submitt$ to a meet+ ( delegates4 ,h[ev]1 z complete agreem5t among ! work]s c\ld n be obta9$1 ! ef=ts 9 ?is direction did n mat]ialise4 ,f #ahid onw>ds1 ! ,association realis$ ! necessity ( a m p[]ful organisation & suffici5t funds to support ! memb]s2 & /rong recomm5dations 7 repeat$ly put =w>d by ! ,executive = increas$ contributions2 b ow+ to app>5t apa?y on ! "p ( memb]s1 ^! recomm5dations 7 n tak5 up ) ! zeal necess>y = _! success4 ,at ! ,annual ,delegates' ,meet+ held 9 ,may1 #ahie1 ! "q ( repl5i%+ ! funds ( ! ,association1 :i* _h be5 greatly deplet$1 0 discuss$2 & x 0 ultimately decid$ to raise ! contributions f #d;d4 to #f;d4 p] week4 ,z a result ( ?is increase1 two ( ! bran*es 9 ! ,ea/ ( ,scotl& sec$$4 ,9 ,july1 #ahie1 ! "q ( amalgamat+ ) ! ,kidd]m9/] ,association 0 aga9 discuss$2 b aga9 no def9ite /eps 7 tak54 ,9 #ahig an ef=t 0 made by ! ,ea/ %ops 7,bonnyrigg1 ,eskbank1 & ,rosl97 to =m a local union4 ,?is 0 p>tially e/abli%$1 b 9 ,june1 #aijd1 a lock-out took place 9 ! di/rict on ! "q ( %ift work+2 & ! local union1 n be+ able to deal ) ! matt]1 appeal$ to ! ,executive ( ?is ,association = assi/ance1 :i* 0 grant$4 ,! ,executive op5$ negotiations ) ! firms conc]n$1 & aft] a few weeks duration1 a satisfactory agreem5t 0 arriv$ at1 ) ! result t ! local union 0 dissolv$1 & ! memb]s agre$ to jo9 ! orig9al ,association4 ,9 ,m>*1 #ahie1 ! memb]%ip ( ! ,association 0 return$ at #cig4 ,a special conf]5ce 0 held 9 ,glasg[ on #cj? ,septemb]1 #aije1 ) ! object ( endeav\r+ to get ! employ]s to return to ! rates = ty+ beams :i* 7 r$uc$ 9 #ahhf4 ,a s*eme 0 ultimately drawn up & submitt$ to ! employ]s 9 #aijf2 b negotiations prov$ unproductive4 ,9 #aije1 ! ,gl5patrick bran*1 :i* _h sec$$ 9 #ahge aft] _! unsuccessful /rike1 rejo9$ ! ,association1 "s #gb weav]s becom+ memb]s4 ,9 ,m>*1 #aijf1 ! memb]%ip ( ! ,association 0 return$ at #dfb4 ,9 ,may1 #aijf1 a dispute arose 9 ! ,*>le/on 7,paisley7 bran* on ! "q ( ! weav+ rate = a new fabric1 :i* la/$ ab\t f\r mon?s4 ,9 #aijg ! ,association became affiliat$ to ! ,g5]al ,f$]ation ( ,trade ,unions ) a view to /r5g!n+ ! res]ve funds ( ! ,association4 ,9 #aijg & #aijh1 a fur!r ef=t 0 made to br+ ab\t an affiliation ( ! ,engli% & ,scot* ,c>pet ,trade ,unions2 & on ?is occasion a con/itution 0 drawn up1 b at ! la/ mom5t1 :5 all seem$ %ap+ well = ! =mation ( a ,f$]ation1 ! matt] aga9 dropp$4 ,9 #aiaa1 aft] prolong$ negotiations ) ! ,tape/ry manufactur]s1 a new s*eme = paym5t = weav+ 0 drawn up on a proportionate basis1 :i* 0 consid]$1 at lea/ s f> z ,scotl& 0 conc]n$1 to be a great /ep t[>ds uni=mity ( rates4 ,! work]s' int]e/s 9 ! draw+ up ( ?is s*eme 7 v capably h&l$ by ,messrs4 ,r\gh1 ,rob]tson1 & ,h[ie4 ,aft] ! e/abli%m5t ( ?is s*eme1 ?+s w5t on smoo?ly until ,augu/1 #aiad1 :5 ! outbreak ( w> put ! organisation1 9 common ) _m o!rs1 into a condition ( susp5se4 ,! ,g5]al ,secret>y 0 call$ to ! ,col\rs2 & a l>ge proportion ( ! y\ng] memb]s answ]$ ! call to arms4 ,?anks1 h[ev]1 to c>eful & judici\s h&l+1 ! ,association ultimately ov]came all difficulties2 & n only 0 ! ,association pres]v$1 b t :i* 0 almo/ despair$ (1 & :i* 0 ! dream ( ! pione]s ( ! movem5t1 0 also a*iev$3 namely1 ! complete organisation ( all c>pet work]s 9 ! ,brussels1 ,wilton1 & ,tape/ry c>pet trade ( ,scotl&4 ,by ! end ( #aiah1 ! memb]%ip ( ! ,association1 9 spite ( ! great depletion 9 ! ranks ( ! work]s caus$ by ! w>1 _h increas$ to #a1bjj4 ,s9ce #aiad ! ,executive 0 successful 9 obta9+ ! adoption ( a new s*eme = paym5t = ty+-9 beams1 replac+ ! "o :i* 0 aboli%$ 9 #ahhf1 & giv+ satisfaction to all work]s 9 ! ,tape/ry trade4 ,! progress & developm5t ( ! ,scot* ,association dur+ ! pa/ few ye>s1 & ! successful amalgamation ) ! ,engli% ,associations1 has be5 l>gely due to ! tact & en]gy ( ! ,presid5t1 ,mr4 ,?omas ,l9dsay1 ( ,paisley4 ,! ,kidd]m9/]1 ,nor!rn ,c\nties1 & ,scotti% ,associations 7 amalgamat$ 9 ,novemb]1 #aiag1 "u ! title ( 8,! ,national ,affiliation ( ,c>pet ,trade ,unions40 ,! objects ( ! affiliation 7 ! ma9t5ance ( uni=m rates1 ! regulation ( ! supply ( h&s & h\rs ( "w1 & g5]ally ! regulation ( ! relations ( employ]s & employ$ 9 ! trade4 ,! con/itution is simple1 ! control ( ! ,affiliation be+ ve/$ 9 ! h&s ( an ,affiliation ,bo>d1 compos$ ( ?ree repres5tatives f ea* ,association4 ,! ,bo>d appo9ts a ,presid5t1 ,secret>y1 & ,treasur]1 ea* ,association be+ entitl$ to "o (ficial4 ,dur+ ! spr+ & e>ly summ] ( #aiai negotiations _h be5 proce$+ betwe5 ! ,employ]s1 ! ,trade ,unions' repres5tatives1 & ! ,m9i/ry ( ,lab\r = ! =mation ( a ,jo9t ,indu/rial ,c\ncil = ! ,c>pet ,trade2 & ! inaugural meet+ ( ?is body 0 held "u ! auspices ( ,mr4 ,john ,hodge1 ,m4,p41 on #ah? ,july4 ,x 0 compos$ z foll[s-- ,,employ]s' ,,side ,kidd]m9/] & ,di/rict ,manufactur]s' ,association #e ,nor!rn ,c\nties' ,manufactur]s' ,association #e ,scotti% ,manufactur]s' ,association #d -- #ad ,,employees' ,,side ,national ,affiliation ( ,c>pet ,trade ,unions #aj ,g5]al ,union ( ,textile ,work]s #b ,! ,amalgamat$ ,society ( ,gas1 ,municipal1 & ,g5]al ,work]s #a ,work]s' ,union #a -- #ad ,mr4 ,h]b]t ,smi?1 ( ,kidd]m9/] 7,employ]s71 0 elect$ ,*airman1 & ,mr4 ,?omas ,l9dsay1 ( ,paisley 7,employees71 ,vice-,*airman4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,conclusion ,,x may be ( int]e/ to consid] briefly ! prospects ( ! indu/ry4 ,! ,c>pet ,trade is 9 sev]al respects a peculi> "o4 ,its pr9cipal raw mat]ials1 wool1 cotton1 & jute1 are ( su* out/&+ importance to m ess5tial indu/ries1 t _! supply & _! price are condition$ by ! latt]2 s t ! ,c>pet ,trade has to accommodate itself to a m>ket :i* is n controll$ to any ext5t by its own ne$s4 ,x is n a l>ge indu/ry2 b x employs a numb] ( op]atives 9 :om a high degree ( te*nical skill is requir$ 9 a great v>iety ( bran*es2 & x utilises a consid]able quantity ( +5i\s ma*9]y ( _m k9ds4 ,x is1 /rictly speak+1 a luxury trade4 ,t is to say1 x is obvi\s t x is !oretically m possible to exi/ 9 a h\se ) no c>pets1 ?an 9 a h\se1 say1 ) no tables & *airs1 :ile a floor cov]+ is p]haps less ( a necessity ?an wall-pap] or curta9s4 ,( c\rse1 z a matt] ( fact1 ! l9e is n drawn %>ply betwe5 c>pets & o!r articles ( furni%+4 ,a p]son :o is furni%+ a h\se1 if he c af=d curta9s c probably af=d c>pets1 ?\gh he may1 inde$1 f9d 8 m9d divid$ betwe5 8 desire to provide 8 home ) a com=t t is almo/ a necessity1 & 8 hesitation to indulge himself 9 a com=t t may be reg>d$ z a luxury4 ,:]e ! practical te/ ( ! trade be+ a luxury trade comes1 is 9 ! matt] ( r5ewals4 ,x is "h t ! ,c>pet ,indu/ry is s5sitive to ! p]iodical *anges 9 comm]cial prosp]ity1 :i* seem to be inh]5t 9 mod]n civilisation4 ,g5]ally speak+1 :5 trade is bad ! ,c>pet ,indu/ry is ! fir/ to suff]2 & :5 !re is a recov]y x is "s "t be=e x feels ! b5efit4 ,x seems t1 ) ! fir/ p9* ( adv]sity1 ! c>pet consum] decides ^u a policy ( economy t excludes ! pur*ase ( c>pets1 :atev] else may or may n be b\ght4 ,h5ce arises a p]iod ( depression 9 ! c>pet trade1 ) a decrease ( pr(itable production1 & consequ5t unemploym5t2 & ?is 9 ! future1 9 ! face ( high] wages & m ke5ly realis$ responsibilities t[>ds employees1 w c]ta9ly be an ev5 m s]i\s matt] ?an x has be5 9 ! pa/4 ,! matt] ( ! import ( =eign goods has be5 m5tion$ 9 ! *apt] on ,h&-made ,c>pets2 & all t 0 said !re9 z reg>ds ! unre/rict$ entrance into ! ,briti% m>ket ( ,ea/]n & ,cont95tal productions applies to "s ext5t to _! competition ) all makes & grades ( c>pet4 ,! home m>ket = c>pets is a l>ge "o normally1 b x is n capable ( indef9ite expansion2 ! consumption has its limits2 & if ! m>ket is invad$ by =eign goods1 ! consumption & ! price ( ! dome/ic product w quickly fall ) unpleasant if n disa/r\s results ^u ! indu/ry4 ,! dang]s indicat$ axe real ones1 s]i\s alike = ,capital & ,lab\r1 :o1 m ?an ev] 9 ! pa/1 w h to /& or fall toge!r2 & !y des]ve consid]ation1 z reg>ds ! way 9 :i* !y may be/ be met4 ,z previ\sly indicat$1 v>i\s ,associations exi/ 9 ! ,c>pet ,trade2 b x may be admitt$ t !re is scope = bett] organisation z reg>ds consid]ation ( matt]s t affect ! ,indu/ry z a :ole4 ,if x is to be on a firm f\ndation1 !re %\ld be a m complete recognition ( ! fact t ! int]e/s ( all units ( ! trade are id5tical4 ,fur!r1 9 any new s*eme ( comb9ation ! position ( ,lab\r w h to be recognis$1 & its co-op]ation cordially welcom$4 ,"s su* s*eme z is outl9$ 9 ! well-kn[n ,:itley ,report1 ?\gh x is by no means free f difficulties1 may mat]ialise1 possibly 9 a modifi$ =m4 ,! pr9ciple at any rate is a good "o2 & c>pet manufactur]s h _h no cause to compla9 ( _! relations ) _! employees 7nor vice v]s7 9 ! pa/1 nor any cause = d\bt+ a reasonable attitude on ! "p ( ,trade ,unions 9 ! future4 ,no reasonable employ]s 9 ! ,c>pet ,trade w begrudge _! employees a fair remun]ation = _! "w1 nor improv$ conditions ( work+4 ,nor1 on ! o!r h&1 w !y be sorry to admit ,trade ,union repres5tatives to a %>e 9 deal+ ) g5]al trade problems4 ,x seems manife/ly "r1 = in/ance1 t m5 no less ?an ma/]s %\ld consid] h[ ! ,indu/ry is affect$ by t>iff que/ions1 or h[ high wages or r$uc$ work+ h\rs may be made compatible ) ! ma9t5ance ( ! export trade4 ,ap>t f ?is1 x rema9s to be se5 :e!r ! manufactur]s !mselves c devise any satisfactory s*eme = protect+ _! own int]e/s & ^? ( ! ,indu/ry g5]ally4 ,all are pretty well agre$ z to ! desirability ( clos] & m effici5t comb9ation3 diff]5ces ( op9ion exi/ z to ! be/ me?ods by :i* ?is may be a*iev$4 ,,index ,art squ>es1 #hh ,aubusson1 #d1 #bb ,axm9/]1 #e ---- c>pet+1 #di ---- qualities1 #ej-eb ----1 seamless1 #fa ----1 sett+1 #ed ---- weav+ process1 #ed1 #ee ---- weft motion1 #eh ,beauvais1 #d1 #bb ,brussels c>pet+1 #bi ----1 *a9 w>p1 #ca ----1 f9i%+1 #ch ----1 press+1 #ch ---- qualities1 #ce1 #cf ----1 spr\t+1 #cg ----1 /uff] w>p1 #ca ----1 weav+ process1 #cb ----1 w9d+1 #cj ----1 wor/$1 #bi ,cairo squ>es1 #ch ,c>lisle1 #bc ,c>pets1 antiquity (1 #a ----1 artificial age+ (1 #bf ----1 doctor+ (1 #be ----1 e>lie/ mak]s (1 #bd ----1 ,european & ,asiatic1 #bf ----1 export (1 #aje1 #ajf ----1 import (1 #ajf ----1 introduction into ,engl&1 #c ----1 sew+ (1 #db ,c>pet trade associations1 #ajg ---- ----1 comm]cial conditions (1 #aai ---- ----1 ,di/rict ,association1 #aaj ---- ----1 di/ribution (1 #ajd ,c>pet ,trade ,indu/rial ,c\ncil1 #aah ---- ---- ,ration+ ,committee1 #aji ,*5ille1 #fc ----1 fur cutt+1 #fe ----1 qualities1 #fg ----1 sett+1 #ff ----1 weft weav+1 #fd ,*lidema squ>es1 #ch ,col\r1 #ib ,competition1 =eign1 #bg1 #abj ,cotton1 #aa ,creel bobb91 #cj ,design1 #ib ,di/ribution ( c>pet indu/ry1 #ajd ,donegal1 #bc ,dry+ y>ns1 #ai ,dye+1 #ac ---- y>ns1 #ad ---- ma*9es1 #ae1 #af ---- process1 #ah ,dyes ( ,ori5tal c>pets1 #be ,dye/uffs1 #ah1 #be ,dye vats1 #ad ,eclecticism 9 design1 #ajb ,egyptian loom1 #a ,employees1 numb] (1 #ajd ,employ]s & employ$1 #ajg ,export c>pet trade1 #aje1 #ajf ,f9e ,wiltons1 #de ,flax w>p1 #bc ---- y>n1 #aa ,=eign competition1 #bg1 #abj ,hakluyt1 #c ,halifax1 #g ,h&-made c>pets1 #bj ,h5ry ,,iv1 #d ---- ,,viii1 #d ,imp]ial ,axm9/]1 #ej ,+ra9 c>pet+1 #hf ---- qualities1 #hg ,jacqu>d1 #ca ---- ,axm9/]1 #ei ,jute y>n1 #aj ,kidd]m9/]1 #e1 #ajd ---- c>pet+1 #hf ---- ,c>pet ,weav]s' ,association1 #ajj ,kilm>nock1 #f ,knots1 ,turki% & ,p]sian1 #ba ,l95 y>n1 #aa ,l\is ,,xiv1 #d ,maff]sdorf1 #bc ,mat]ials1 #i ----1 consumption (1 #ajd ,m$allion squ>es1 #db ,mohair1 #aj ,morris1 influ5ce (1 #ii ,national ,affiliation1 #aag ,nor!rn ,c\nties ,association1 #aab ,ornam5t1 classes (1 #ig ,ow5 ,jones1 #ig1 #ii ,pap] y>n1 #aa ,pla9 ,wilton1 #dg ,plant+1 #cd ,qualities1 /&>disation (1 #ajh ,ramie y>n1 #aa ,reproduction1 #ajj ,saxony ,wilton1 #df ,scot* c>pet+1 #hf ,sc\r+ ( y>ns1 #ac ,seamless ,axm9/]1 #fa ,self col\rs1 #ie ,silk1 #i ,/>*+1 #cd ,/ati/ics1 #ajd ,tape/ry1 #g1 #ga ----1 pr9t+1 #gd ----1 scalebo>d1 #gh ----1 sett+1 #ha ----1 /eam+1 #ha ----1 /ripp+1 #hj ----1 velvet1 #hd ----1 weav+1 #hc ,trade unions1 #aaj ,two-col\r effect1 #if ,wa%+ ( c>pets1 #bf ,:ytock1 #f1 #ga ,wilton1 #d1 #e1 #bc ,wilton c>pet+1 #dd ----1 pla9s1 #dg ----1 qualities1 #de ----1 %ad+ (1 #dg ,wool1 "* & consumption (1 #i1 #aj ----1 *>act]i/ics (1 #ag ,wooll5 ,wiltons1 #df ,y>n dry+1 #ai ---- sc\r+1 #ac 99 99 99 99 99 ,pr9t$ by ,sir ,isaac ,pitman ,sons1 ,ltd41 ,ba?1 ,engl& ,,br9tons ,,limit$ ,,kidd]m9/] ,tel4 ,address3 ,br9tons1 ,kidd]m9/]4 ,telephone ,no4 #e ,,wor/$ ,,& ,,wooll5 ,,sp9n]s ,,c>pet ,,& ,,rug ,,manufactur]s ,illu/ration ,brussels1 ,wilton1 ,axm9/]1 ,*5ille1 & ,h& ,tuft$ 4 4 4 4 ,c>pet+ 4 4 4 4 ,illu/ration ,cotton1 ,jute1 ,hemp1 ,l95 4 4 & ,wor/$ ,webb+ 4 4 ,illu/ration ,,w>eh\ses-- ,london #aj ,ivy ,lane1 ,newgate ,/41 ,e4,c4 ,tel4 #gebi ,c5t4 ,man*e/] #ec ,portl& ,/reet ,tel4 #dgci ,city ,glasg[ #ej ,well+ton ,/reet ,tel4 #gcad ,city ,tel4 ,addresses3 ,br9tons1 ,london2 ,br9tons1 ,man*e/]2 ,br9tons1 ,glasg[ ,rob]t ,hall ,sons ,bury ,ltd4 ,bury1 ,lanca%ire ,mak]s ( all classes ( ,looms1 ,prep>+ ,f9i%+ ,ma*9]y ,complete ,plants ( ,ma*9]y = ,brussels & ,wilton ,c>pets1 ,squ>es1 etc41 ,tape/ry & ,velvet ,c>pets1 ,c>riage ,l9+s1 ,rugs1 ,slipp] ,tops1 ,cocoa ,matt+ & ,mats1 ,royal ,axm9/] & ,*5ille ,axm9/] ,c>pets1 ,turkey ,c>pets1 ,scot* & ,kidd]m9/] ,c>pets1 etc41 9 all wid?s1 includ+ ,w9d+1 ,w>p+1 ,beam+1 ,siz+ ,pr9t+1 ,sett+1 ,/>*+1 ,dry+ & ,/eam+1 ,roll+ & ,%e>+ or ,cropp+ ,ma*9es 99 99 99 99 99 ,special ,h& ,looms = ,c>pets 99 99 99 99 99 ,mak]s ( ! ,not$ ,moxon ,c>pet ,loom 99 99 99 99 99 ,also ,prep>+1 ,weav+ & ,f9i%+ ,ma*9]y = ,cotton1 ,wooll51 ,l951 ,jute1 ,ramie1 ,silk1 etc4 ,common ,commodities & ,indu/ries ,s]ies ,ea* book 9 cr[n #hvo1 clo?1 ) _m illu/rations1 *>ts1 etc4 #bs4 #f;d4 net4 ,tea3 ,f ,gr[] to ,consum]4 ,by ,a4 ,ibbetson4 ,c(fee3 ,f ,gr[] to ,consum]4 ,by ,b4 ,b4 ,keable4 ,sug>3 ,cane & ,beet4 ,by ,geo4 ,m>t9eau1 ,c4,b4 ,cotton3 ,f ! ,raw ,mat]ial to ! ,f9i%$ ,product4 ,by ,r4 ,j4 ,peake4 ,rubb]3 ,production & ,utilisation ( ! ,raw ,product4 ,by ,c4 ,beadle & ,h4 ,p4 ,/ev5s1 ,m4,a41 ,ph4,d41 ,f4,i4,c4 ,iron & ,/eel3 ,_! ,production & ,manufacture4 ,by ,c4 ,hood4 ,silk3 ,its ,production & ,manufacture4 ,by ,lu!r ,hoop]4 ,tobacco3 ,f ,gr[] to ,smok]4 ,by ,a4 ,e4 ,tann]4 ,wool3 ,f ! ,raw ,mat]ial to ! ,f9i%$ ,product4 ,by ,j4 ,a4 ,hunt]4 ,coal3 ,its ,orig91 ,me?od ( ,work+1 & ,prep>ation = ! ,m>ket4 ,by ,francis ,h4 ,wilson1 ,m4,in/4 ,m4,e4 ,l953 ,f ! ,field to ! ,f9i%$ ,product4 ,by ,alfr$ ,s4 ,moore4 ,timb]3 ,f ! ,=e/ to its ,use 9 ,comm]ce4 ,by ,william ,bullock4 ,clays & ,clay ,products4 ,by ,a4 ,b4 ,se>le4 ,lea!r3 ,f ! ,raw ,mat]ial to ! ,f9i%$ ,product4 ,by ,k4 ,j4 ,adcock4 ,oils3 ,animal1 ,vegetable1 ,ess5tial1 & ,m9]al4 ,by ,c4 ,a9swor? ,mit*ell1 ,b4,a41 ,f4,i4,c4 ,:eat & its ,products4 ,by ,a4 ,mill>4 ,copp]3 ,f ! ,ore to ! ,metal4 ,by ,h4 ,k4 ,pic>d1 ,assoc4 ,royal ,s*ool ( ,m9es1 ,mem4 ,in/1 ( ,m94 & ,met4 ,pap]3 ,its ,hi/ory1 ,s\rces1 & ,production4 ,by ,h4 ,a4 ,maddox4 ,glass & ,glass ,manufacture4 ,by ,p]cival ,m>son4 ,soap3 ,its ,composition1 ,manufacture1 & ,prop]ties4 ,by ,william ,h4 ,simmons4 ,! ,motor ,indu/ry4 ,by ,horace ,wyatt1 ,b4,a4 ,! ,boot & ,%oe ,indu/ry4 ,by ,j4 ,s4 ,h>d+4 ,gums & ,res9s4 ,by ,erne/ ,j4 ,p>ry4 ,furniture4 ,by ,h4 ,e4 ,b9/ead4 ,o!r ,volumes 9 prep>ation4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcrib]'s ,notes3 ,"s illu/rations h be5 mov$ slightly to keep p>agraphs intact4 ,ar*aic spell+s & hyph5ation h be5 reta9$4 ,a few obvi\s typesett+ errors h be5 correct$ )\t note4 ,! adv]tisem5ts & publi%]'s catalogue h be5 mov$ f ! front ( ! book to ! end ( ! book4 ,end ( ,c>pets1 by ,r4 ,s4 ,br9ton