,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,sph9x ,,by ,,moonlight ,illu/ration ,,an ,,arti/ ,,9 ,,egypt ,,by ,,walt] ,,tyndale ,r4,i4 ,,hodd] ,,/\ghton ,,new ,,york ,,london ,,preface ,i endeav\r$1 9 a =m] book on ,egypt1 to give my fir/ impressions :ile ! glam\r ( ! ,ea/ _h n be5 dimm$ by famili>ity2 & ! k9d reception ( t1 my fir/ lit]>y attempt1 has enc\rag$ me to write aga9 aft] sp5d+ "s ye>s 9 ! ,nile ,valley4 ,?\gh fir/ impressions may h a *>m :i* famili>ity lacks1 x w\ld be a/oni%+ if a c\ntry s full ( beauty1 & ( su* v>i$ int]e/s z is ,egypt1 _h caus$ famili>ity to bre$ contempt4 ,i may safely say t x has n _h t result4 ,a l5g!n$ /ay has c]ta9ly add$ to my exp]i5ces z well z to my /ock ( draw+s1 & ,i tru/ x has also giv5 me "s insight into ! "* ( ! p amid/ :om ,i dwelt4 ,m$ival ,cairo is d\btless ye> by ye> ! poor] by _m picturesque #8bits' :i* h vani%$4 ,b ,cairo is a l>ge city1 & happily _m ye>s may elapse be=e arti/s w cease to g !re = mat]ial4 ,:at is /ill unt\*$ by ! j]ry build]1 or has n be5 all[$ to fall into ru91 is probably m beautiful ?an any?+ o!r ori5tal cities c %[4 ,less *ange is se5 9 ! small] t[ns1 & ! villages are mu* ! same 9 aspect z :5 ! ,s>ac5 invad]s fir/ occupi$ ! valley ( ! ,nile4 ,e season adds to ! k ( ,anci5t ,egypt1 & gives u some?+ :i* = c5turies lay hid b5ea? ! des]t s&s4 ,x 0 my good =tune to sp5d "s w9t]s at ,!bes :ile "s ( ! mo/ int]e/+ ( rec5t discov]ies 7 made1 & ?r\gh ! c\rtesy ( ,mr4 ,weigall1 ! ,*ief ,inspector ( ,upp] ,egypt1 ,i 0 enabl$ to dwell & d my "w 9 ^! cong5ial surr\nd+s4 ,i h also to ?ank him = ! unique opportunities :i* our des]t j\rney1 f ! ,nile to ! ,r$ ,sea1 (f]$2 ( all my exp]i5ces 9 ,egypt1 none has giv5 me m pleasure 9 recall+4 ,,haslem]e1 #aiab4 ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,i ,,page ,,cairo ,,revisit$ #a ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,r5ewal ,,( ,,my ,,acqua9tance ,,) ,,mohamm$ ,,br[n ,,& ,,"s ,,reflections ,,on ,,matrimony #aa ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,! ,,mosque ,,( ,,muri/,n ,,kala,n1 ,,my ,,exp]i5ce ,,) ,,! ,,fak,r1 ,,& ,a ,,digression ,,on ,,! ,,subject ,,( ,,d]vi%es #bb ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,! ,,fe/ival ,,( ,,! #8,,hasaneyn' ,,& ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,! ,,pr9cess ,,zohra #ca ,,*apt] ,v ,,( ,,! ,,old ,,& ,,! ,,new ,,cairo1 ,,& ,,( ,a ,,visit ,,to ,,! ,,%eykh ,,amm9 ,,saheime #dc ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,my ,,second ,,visit ,,to ,,! ,,%eykh ,,& ,,my ,,exp]i5ces ,,) ,,an ,,unfai?ful ,,s]vant #eg ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,9 ,,:i* ,i ,,get ,,ano!r ,,s]vant ,,& ,,hunt ,,= ,a ,,crocodile2 ,,also ,a ,,cont9uation ,,( ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,pr9cess ,,zohra #fg ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,( ,a ,,cairo ,,caf ,,& ,,o!r ,,matt]s #gh ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,! ,,coptic ,,conv5ts ,,( ,,wadi ,,natrun #ij ,,*apt] ,x ,,! ,,mosque ,,( ,,es-,,salih ,,talai #ajd ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,! ,,blue ,,mosque ,,& ,,kasr-,,e%-,,%ema #aaf ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,! ,,sph9x1 ,,& ,a ,,diss]tation ,,on ,,tommy ,,atk9s #abg ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,! ,,hamse51 ,,! ,,lamp-,,%op1 ,,& ,,! ,,accession ,,( ,,said ,,pa%a #acf ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,mohamm$an ,,fe/ivals3 ,,! ,,holy ,,c>pet--,,! ,,fa/ ,,( ,,ramadan ,,& ,,! ,,a%ura #aea ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,m ,,religi\s ,,obs]vances1 ,,spr+',s ,,awak5+1 ,,& ,,! ,,cair5e ,,h\se ,,( ,,c\nt ,,zogheb #agj ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,d] ,,el-,,bahri1 ,,& ,,"s ,,incid5ts ,,:i* ,,took ,,place ,,dur+ ,,my ,,/ay ,,!re #agh ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,d] ,,el-,,bahri 7cont9u$7 #aid ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,! ,,cross ,,des]t ,,j\rney ,,to ,,kosseir #bjf ,,*apt] ,,xix ,,! ,,valley ,,( ,,hammam,t #bba ,,*apt] ,,xx ,,! ,,wadi ,,f[akiyeh ,,& ,b,r ,,hagi ,,suliman #bca ,,*apt] ,,xxi ,,kosseir #bde ,,*apt] ,,xxii ,,edfu ,,& ,,! ,,qu>ries ,,( ,,gebel ,,silsileh #beh ,,*apt] ,,xxiii ,,my ,,exp]i5ces ,,z ,,an ,,inmate ,,( ,a ,,native ,,hospital #bgj ,,illu/rations ,,page ,,! ,,sph9x ,,by ,,moonlight ,frontispiece ,,wat] ,,melon ,,sell] #h ,,an ,,arab ,,w$d+ ,,procession #af ,a ,,*eap ,,ride #bd ,,! ,,khan ,,khalil1 ,,cairo #cb ,,suk ,,es-,,selah1 ,,cairo #dh ,,entrance ,,to ,,! ,,h>eem #ef ,,! ,,takhtabo% #fd ,,mosque ,,( ,,mohamm$ ,,bey #gb ,a ,,cair5e ,,caf #hj ,,! ,,tomb ,,( ,,%eykh ,,abd-,,el-,,deym #hh ,,arab ,,s*ool #ajd ,,! ,,blue ,,mosque #aab ,,p]sian ,,alm%\ses #abh ,,! ,,/ore ,,( ,,nass,n #acf ,,return ,,( ,,! ,,holy ,,c>pet #add ,a ,,fruit-,,/all ,,at ,,bulak #aeb ,a ,,!ban ,,home/ead #afh ,,! ,,jac>&a #agf ,,! ,,bir? ,,colonnade ,,9 ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,hat%epsu #ahd ,,! ,,hairdress] #aib ,a ,,m>ket ,,on ,,! ,,edge ,,( ,,! ,,des]t #bjh ,,! ,,tombs ,,( ,,! ,,khalifs #baf ,,! ,,mosque ,,at ,,kosseir #bcb ,,doorway ,,9 ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,isis #bdj ,,pott]y ,,baza> ,,9 ,a ,,nile ,,village #bfd ,,! ,,village ,,( ,,m>g #bgb ,,*apt] ,i ,,cairo ,,revisit$ ,aft] a lapse ( "s ye>s1 ,i return$ to ,cairo to attempt once aga9 to pa9t its anci5t build+s1 z well z ! picturesque incid5ts se5 9 ! %ad[s !y ca/ or ba!d 9 light aga9/ _! sunlit walls4 ,i made an e>ly />t on ! fir/ morn+ aft] my arrival1 p>tly to look = a subject1 & m p>ticul>ly to see :e!r ! pictorial side ( ! old qu>t]s ( ! city w\ld /ill impress me z x did on my fir/ visit4 ,x 0 a fateful morn+1 = _h :at ,i saw fail$ to /ir up my =m] en?usiasm1 ,i 0 resolv$ to pack up my traps1 & try my h& 9 ,upp] ,egypt4 ,i hurri$ along ! ,m\sky z fa/ z its usual cr[d ( p w\ld all[1 & turn$ d[n ! ,khordagiyeh to see if an old fav\rite subject ( m9e _h n be5 #8improv$ away4' ,ne$less to say1 x 0 a brilliant morn+1 = ! occasional grey days ( midw9t] 7 /ill a long way (f4 ,great awn+s hung across ! /reet1 & on "o side ! %opm5 7 l[]+ bl9ds or rigg+ up matt+1 9 anticipation ( ! sun :i* w\ld %ortly be /ream+ d[n on !m4 ,ev]y?+ /ill _h its summ] look1 ?\gh ,octob] 0 f> sp5t2--& ,cairo1 let me say1 is mu* m beautiful 9 hot wea!r ?an dur+ ! comp>atively *ill days ( w9t]4 ,! p>ticul> h\ses ,i _h gone 9 se>* ( 7 happily unt\*$2 b _h !y be5 re/or$ out ( all %ape or all[$ to fall d[n = want ( repair1 ,i %\ld h>dly h _h room = a depress+ ?\ght4 ,f ! cr[d ( c\ntry folk & ! heavily lad5 camels & donkeys1 x 0 evid5t t a m>ket 0 be+ held 9 ! op5 space 9 front ( ! ,beit-el-,kadi4 ,locomotion 0 difficult till ! ,nahasse5 or copp]smi? /reet 0 rea*$1 = "h ! road wid5s out at ! ,muri/n4 ,?is h&some build+1 toge!r ) ! mosques ( ,kalan1 en-,nasir1 & ( ,b>kk1 =m$ a magnific5t gr\p1 mass$ z !y !n 7 9 a lum9\s %ade4 ,x 0 a meet+ ( old fri5ds1 & old fri5ds look+ _! be/4 ,! d>k awn+s /ret*$ across ! road gave ?is pile ( masonry a light & e!real look1 ?\gh !y 7 d>k 9 contra/ to ! azure above1 save :]e ! sun tipp$ ! domes & a face ( ! m9>ets4 ,! cr[d all[$ b little "t = contemplation2 ,i _h to move ) x1 & rea*+ ! %ort /reet :i* leads to ! ,beit-el-,kadi1 a conv]g+ /ream ( p c>ri$ u along till we arriv$ at ! m>ket squ>e4 ,i pick$ my way ?r\gh ! heaps ( fruit & vegetables :i* litt]$ ! gr\nd1 pass$ beh9d a gr\p ( camels1 & work$ my way to ! /eps ( ! c\rt-h\se1 :i* gives its "n to ! m>ket4 ,f ?is po9t ( vantage ,i 0 enabl$ to make "s r\gh /udies ( ! animat$ sc5e be=e me4 ,! sun _h n[ ris5 high en\gh to flood ! l>g] "p ( ! squ>e 9 light4 ,bits ( matt+1 sailclo?1 or any?+ :i* c ca/ a %ad[1 7 rigg$ up to protect ! m p]i%able goods1 & ! e>ly com]s _h tak5 advantage ( ! %ade ( ! acacia trees at ! fur!r end ( ! m>ket4 ,! g5]al impression is "o ( light1 col\r1 noise & movem5t4 ,! detail is full ( human z well z pictorial int]e/4 ,v>i\s comb9ations ( col\r--"s beautiful1 "s inh>moni\s--leave ample scope to ! pa9t] to arrange 8 s*eme4 ,a pile ( oranges & lemons1 ) ! black & deep purple dress ( ! fellaha saleswoman1 make a /rik+ note 9 ! =egr\nd2 ! /acks ( pit*]s br\ght d[n f ,balliana1 9 ,upp] ,egypt1 give a v>iety 9 buffs & greys1 & ! blue g>m5ts ( ! buy]s are suffici5tly fad$ n to contra/ too viol5tly4 ,x is also a great /udy ( types & *>act]s4 ,! noisy ,cair5e is *aff]+ ) ! quiet] ,%ami f f> ,damascus = "s pomegranates :i* are heap$ be=e him2 ! ,maghraby hawks a bundle ( yell[ slipp]s2 ,jew & ,greek are try+ to outdo ea* o!r 9 a deal ov] a spav9$ horse4 ,?r\gh ! motley cr[d passes ! brightly g>m5t$ lemonade-sell]1 t9kl+ 8 brass cups2 8 rival1 :o retails licorice-wat]1 seems m 9 dem&2 "o1 c>ry+ a heavy pit*] ) a long brass sp\t1 invites ! ?ir/y ones to p>take ( ! *>ity (f]$ !m 9 ! "n ( ,god4 #8,sebeel ,alhh y at*an1' he drones out at /at$ p]iods4 ,he is less (t5 met at m>kets ?an at religi\s fe/ivals1 & he is paid by "s visitor to ! tomb ( a sa9t to di/ribute ! wat] z a ?ank-(f]+4 ,a "y camel ab\t to be slaught]$ is be+ l$ ab\t & sold piecemeal1 int5d+ pur*as]s *alk+ on ! hide ( ! bea/ ! jo9t !y wi% to secure4 ,! *eap-jack1 ) 8 usual fl[ ( language1 tempts ! fellahe5 to buy 8 ,european %oddy2 ,k>aku%1 ! ,egyptian ,poli*9elli1 is "h1 & also ! quack doctor4 ,! effect is n[ rapidly *ang+ z ,bib>'s anci5t palace ceases to ca/ its %ad[ ov] ! fur!r "p ( ! m>ket1 & my vantage-gr\nd becomes unt5able z ! sun creeps r\nd to ! /eps ( ! c\rt-h\se4 ,i "w my way to ! ar*way at ! ea/]n side ( ! squ>e1 & f9d ano!r picture "h well wor? go+ to ,cairo to pa9t1 = f ?is po9t ,i get a view ( ! ,muri/n & ! domes & m9>ets ( its adjac5t mosques1 n[ 9 ! full noonday sun4 ,a /ately backgr\nd to ! busy sc5e be=e me4 ,! /udies ,i _h made ( ! m>ket1 ?\gh f> f satisfy+ me1 left me too tir$ to d m ?an make a few notes & a promise to come "h aga9 on a future occasion4 ,x is a relief1 aft] ! gl>e & noise ( a simil> subject1 to turn d[n ! n>r[ d>k lanes :i* are f\nd 9 ! resid5tial p>ts ( ,old ,cairo4 ,! "o ent]$ f ! ar*way w9ds ?r\gh ! ,hasaneyn qu>t] & ends at ! ea/]n entrance ( ! ,khan ,khalil4 ,^! lanes :]e ! old h\ses are /ill intact are ev5 m *>act]i/ic ( ,cairo ?an are ! busy /reets1 = some?+ simil> to ! latt] c be se5 9 mo/ ea/]n cities4 ,! project+ lattic$ w9d[s1 :i* relieve ! plane surfaces ( ! backs ( ! h\ses1 are a di/9ct feature ( ?is city4 ,kn[n g5]ally z mu%rbiyeh1 !y 7 orig9ally small bays 9 :i* ! wat]-bottles 7 plac$ to cool4 ,! ^w is d]iv$ f ! root ( ! ,arabic %irib1 to dr9k1 f :i* we also get our ^w %]bet4 ,! bays 7 gradually enl>g$ s z to all[ two or ?ree p to sit 9 !m & see up & d[n ! /reet )\t be+ se5 !mselves4 ,:at corresponds to a glass pane 9 ,europe is "h replac$ by a wood5 grat+4 ,ea* jo9t is turn$1 & s arrang$ z to make a pretty patt]n4 ,?is grat+ is mu* clos] 9 ! ap>tm5ts ( ! h>eem1 & ?\gh x freely admits ! air & a suffici5cy ( light1 x effectually scre5s ! inmates f ^? outside4 ,f ! enl>g$ bays "o or m small] ones (t5 project 9 :i* ! e>!n bottles are n[ plac$4 ,!re are also small w9d[s 9 ! l[] panels1 ?r\gh :i* ,i h (t5 se5 ?+s haul$ up 9 small baskets f ! /reet4 ,sell]s ( fruit or sweet/uffs are (t5 met 9 ^! lonely lanes1 & a /rang] might wond] :]e !y expect to f9d cu/om4 ,pres5tly a little grat+ w op5 & a face w ne>ly fill ! op5+4 ,%\ld ! /rang] h be5 se5 ?r\gh ! lattice-"w1 ! face w be p>tly veil$ unless x be t ( a *ild1 & aft] "s b>ga9+ ) ! hawk]1 a small basket conta9+ a co9 w be l[]$4 ,! co9 hav+ be5 c>efully exam9$1 ! pur*as$ article is plac$ 9 ! basket & !y are haul$ up to ! w9d[4 #8,ma's salama1 ya sitt1' #8ya b9t1' or #8ya ,amma1' accord+ to ! degree ( ! pur*as]1 is usually ! f>ewell salutation ( ! hawk]4 ,b %\ld ! pur*ase n prove on fur!r exam9ation to be up to expectations1 a lively alt]cation is sure to ensue1 & voices f unse5 p>ties beh9d ! grat+ may also be he>d4 ,x is sad to see h[ mu* ( ?is mu%rbiyeh is disappe>+2 x is seldom n[ repair$ & is (t5 replac$ by *eap sa%es or is r\ghly bo>d$ up4 ,!re are sev]al causes = ?is3 x is exp5sive1 & ! own]s ( ! l>g] h\ses h mo/ly gone to live 9 ! mod]n qu>t]s & h let out _! old homes 9 t5em5ts to ! poor] p4 ,mu* also has be5 de/roy$ by fire4 ,! h\ses usually project ov] ! lane z ea* /ory is rea*$1 s t ! upp] w9d[s (t5 ne>ly meet ! ones ( ! opposite h\ses4 ,x is easily imag9$ h[ a fire w spread ) s inflammable a mat]ial = x to fe$ on4 ,! *eap import$ petroleum lamps1 :i* are replac+ ! e>li] =m ( light+1 h mu* to acc\nt =4 ,_m ( ! be/ examples ( mu%rbiyeh h be5 b\ght up by deal]s to be made into scre5s or re-us$ 9 ! mod]n suburbs4 ,z se5 f ! lane1 ! h\ses h a gloomy appe>ance2 b x %\ld be rememb]$ t ! ,cair5e dwell+ 0 n built to make an outw>d display1--its beauty is se5 f its inn] c\rts or g>d54 ,:5 he views !m f ! n>r[ sunless lane1 ! visitor wond]s h[ p c live 9 su* unheal?y surr\nd+s4 ,%\ld he be =tunate en\gh to h ! entre to a h\se :i* is /ill inhabit$ by a prosp]\s own]1 he w probably come to ! conclusion t no m suitable plan c\ld h be5 adopt$ 9 a c\ntry :]e ! summ] la/s = ?ree-qu>t]s ( ! ye>4 ,i %all attempt to describe a visit to a beautiful dwell+ lat] on2 at pres5t let u w&] ?r\gh ! ,hasaneyn qu>t]1 ?ankful t ! rays ( ! sun are s c>efully exclud$4 ,rea*+ ! wid] ?or\ghf>e1 :]e /&s ! mosque :i* gives ! di/rict its "n1 ! diff]5ce 9 ! temp]ature is imm$iately felt4 ,we c>efully keep to ! %ady side ( ! road till we arrive at ! entrance ( ! ,khan ,khalil4 ,?is ,khan1 m commonly call$ ! ,turki% ,baza>1 is "o ( ! few :i* e t\ri/ is tak5 to see2 x is 9 reality a s]ies ( baza>s1 ! mo/ conspicu\s be+ t ( ! metal work]s4 ,pass+ ?r\gh a massive doorway we ent] a lane1 ro($ 9 ov]head ) long raft]s & matt+2 ! w>m light1 :i* filt]s ?r\gh ?is1 h>monises ! v>i\s-col\r$ silks & /uffs :i* are pil$ up 9 e little %op or hung out to attract a cu/om]4 ,ea* %op is little m ?an a squ>e cupbo>d1 b z c>riages d n ent] "h ! own]s h be5 all[$ to reta9 ! ma/aba1 or rais$ seat1 on a level ) _! floors & project+ two feet or m into ! roadway4 ,?is 0 *>act]i/ic ( e %op 9 ,cairo1 until c>riages began to replace ! litt] & ! ass z a means ( locomotion4 ,! m]*ant drops 8 slipp]s z he ent]s 8 place ( bus9ess1 :ile ! cu/om] c sit on ! ma/aba & keep 8 slipp]$ feet 9 ! /reet4 ,an old acqua9tance recognises me & invites u to sit d[n2 he claps 8 h&s1 & ! boy f ! c(fee %op runs across to take 8 ord]s4 ,:5 x is decid$ :e!r we %all h c(fee or gre5 tea1 cig>ettes are produc$ & a s]ies ( c\rte\s inquiries !n foll[4 ,i 9 return ask aft] 8 heal? & t ( 8 *ildr51 b am n suffici5tly intimate to allude to 8 wife4 #8,allah be prais$1 all are well4' ,i ask h[ 8 bus9ess is1 & he tells me t x is ,allah's w t ?+s are n :at !y us$ to be4 #8,l>ge rival /ores n[ exi/ 9 ! mod]n p>ts ( ,cairo & are injur+ ! trade ( ! ,khan ,khalil4' ,he might h add$ t prices are m fix$ 9 ^! new /ores & t visitors h n ! "t to sp5d h\rs ov] a pur*ase4 ,he asks me :5 ,i am com+ to sit 9 8 %op1 aga9 to pa9t t ( ,seleem1 8 opposite neighb\r4 ,he calls out to ,seleem & asks him if he has =gott5 ! ghawaga :o pa9t$ him & 8 w>es4 #8,ya salaam6' says ,seleem1 & crosses ov] to jo9 9 ! conv]sation4 ,:5 ! greet+s are ov] x is "t to beg9 ! leave-tak+1 & ) a promise to come aga9 & possibly br+ a cu/om] we cont9ue our way4 ,i am glad to f9d t bo? m5 /ill reta9 ! kuftn & ample turban1 & h n adopt$ tr\s]s & ! ugly r$ t>b\*1 z mo/ ( ! metal work]s h done4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wat] ,,melon ,,sell] ,desc5d+ "s /eps we come to ! h&some gateway built by ,g>kas el-,khally 9 #adjj2 innum]able lamps1 copi$ f ^? :i* us$ =m]ly to adorn ! mosques1 are expos$ "h = sale2 brass f+]-b[ls1 salv]s & ew]s cov] ! c\nt]s1 & tall damasc5$ lamp-/&s fill up e available place on ! floor4 ,! orig9al col\r+ ( ! gateway seems to h worn itself d[n to mak+ a quiet & h>moni\s backgr\nd to ?is sp>kl+ mass ( metal "w4 ,i am soon recognis$ by ! own] ( "o ( ! /alls1 f ^: %op ,i _h also pa9t$ a "p ( ?is baza>1 & am aga9 invit$ to sit d[n to c(fee & a cig>ette4 ,z "s sev5 or eight seasons _h pass$ s9ce my la/ visit to ,cairo1 & consid]+ ! ?\s&s ( =eign]s :o mu/ h pass$ ?r\gh ^! baza>s dur+ t "t1 x is a/oni%+ t he %\ld h rememb]$ my face4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 no "t n[ to accept ( ! good man's hospitality1 b #8,9-%allh1' ,i %all return be=e _m days4 ,ea* turn+ gives u a fre% s*eme ( col\r & ! int]e/ ( ano!r h&icraft4 ,! c>pet baza> leads out ( t ( ! metal work]s4 ,! small cupbo>d-%ap$ %op is "h replac$ by "o or two important %[-rooms1 & "h & !re a beautiful old ,p]sian rug makes "o regret ! crude col\r+ ( ! anil9e-dy$ mod]n ones :i* are replac+ !m4 ,be ! col\rs ev] s gl>+1 ! subdu$ w>m light :i* passes ?r\gh ! awn+s makes !m "p ( "o h>moni\s :ole4 ,a mass ( r$ & yell[ is :at cat*es our eyes z we look d[n ! slipp] m>ket1 at a "r angle f ! c>pet baza>4 ,fe/oons ( slipp]s hang f %op to %op1 !y are pil$ 9 /acks on ! c\nt]s1 & l>ge sk9s1 bo? r$ & yell[1 are be+ cut up & hamm]$ ab\t z if ! supply 0 n yet equal to ! dem&4 ,we h !m on our "r1 & pass ?r\gh a d\ble r[ ( /alls :]e we are pe/]$ to buy /r+s ( beads1 amb] m\?pieces1 cut & uncut /ones1 #8,nice bangles = y\r lady1' besides _m o!r ?+s we are equally n 9 want (4 ,"h we take our leave ( ! ,khan ,khalil1 & ,i also ( ! imag9>y read] :om ,i h attempt$ to conduct ?r\gh x4 ,i am =tunate en\gh to f9d an arabeyeh1 ! ,cair5e cab1 & c pond] ov] my morn+ :ile return+ to ! hotel4 ,yes1 ,cairo is good en\gh = a second visit1 &1 please ,god1 a good _m m4 ,my second impressions 7 p]haps pleasant] ?an my fir/ ones1 = ,i _h n n[ t bewild]+ s5se ( h[ ,i %\ld set to "w1 & also if x 7 possible to give any?+ l a pictorial pres5tm5t ( ^! sc5es4 ,! physical inconv5i5ces ( work+ 9 cr[d$ /reets & among/ a /range p appall$ me2 b ,i did n !n realise1 z ,i d n[1 h[ mu* a tactful guide c d to make ?is "w a possibility4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,r5ewal ,,( ,,my ,,acqua9tance ,,) ,,mohamm$ ,,br[n ,,& ,,"s ,,reflections ,,on ,,matrimony ,n[ ! fir/ ?+ to d 0 to look up my =m] s]vant1 ,mohamm$ el-,asm>1 n[ a dragoman kn[n z ,mohamm$ ,br[n1 ! surname be+ ! ,engli% int]pretation ( ,asm>4 ,i h describ$ him fully 9 ,bel[ ! ,cat>acts1 a previ\s book ,i h writt5 :5 ,egypt 0 mu* new] to me ?an at pres5t4 ,i w5t to t haunt ( ! dragomans1 ! pavem5t outside ! t]race ( ,%ephe>d's hotel1 late en\gh to h all[$ = ! po/-pr&ial nap4 ,i f\nd "o or two hang+ ab\t on ! *ance ( "s t\ri/ :o might be tak+ ,cairo on 8 way home f yet hott] climates4 ,!y _h n se5 ,mohamm$ lately & did n "k to :at "p ( ,cairo he _h mov$2 b "o ( !m knew a relation ( 8 & promis$ t he %\ld be made to "k t ,i 0 9 ,cairo4 ,t same ev5+ ,mohamm$ 0 await+ me 9 ! hall ( ! hotel4 ,aft] ! fir/ greet+s ,i rem>k$ on :at a swell he _h become1 & ask$ him :y he %\ld h an ,engli% cov]t-coat ov] 8 becom+ ori5tal dress1 on s hot an ev5+ z x 04 ,in/ead ( ! old r$ slipp]s1 he wore ,european tann$-lea!r boots1 & ! turban 0 replac$ by ! hide\s t>b\*4 ,he _h =gott5 my dislike = ?is half-&-half get-up1 & he told me x 0 n[ q #8! ?+' among/ ! bett]-class dragomans4 ,i 0 glad1 h[ev]1 to f9d t ! sev5 seasons dur+ :i* he _h be5 prey+ on ! t\ri/s _h n1 ap>t f ^! *anges 9 8 g>m5ts1 alt]$ him mu* = ! worse4 #8,well1 h[ is ! baby8' ,i ask$ him4 #8,oh1 he is gett+ a big boy n[4' #8,& ! wife8' ,i v5tur$ ?is "t4 ,a r cre/fall5 look prep>$ me t some?+ 0 wrong4 #8,:i* wife1 sir1 d y mean8' #8,y mu/ be do+ uncommonly well if y c af=d two wives1' ,i said2 #8mo/ ( u :o h to e>n our liv+ 9 ,engl& f9d "o z mu* z we c manage2 besides1 ,mohamm$1 y us$ to agree ) me t x 0 a v fooli% ?+ = any "o to h m ?an "o4' ,he c]ta9ly seem$ to agree ) me n[1 = x 0 evid5t t tr\ble began :5 numb] two made h] appe>ance4 #8,x came ab\t l ?is1' he w5t on4 #8,y rememb] ,i told y t my fir/ wife1 ! "m ( our ,hassan1 0 v pretty1 & t ,i lov$ h] v mu*4' #8,yes1 ,i rememb] %e 0 v pretty1 = y "k ,i caught sight ( h] t day my wife & ,i d9$ at y\r h\se4' ,he smil$1 b %ook 8 head1 z mu* z to say t he1 a ,moslem1 ought n to h all[$ 8 wife to be se5 unveil$4 ,z ,i1 h[ev]1 0 n a ,moslem myself1 he tri$ to console himself t he _h n transgress$ ,mohamm$an law4 #8,a pretty face1 sir1 %e /ill has1 b h] tongue gets worse & worse4' ,i ask$ ! fooli% "y man if he expect$ to improve h] tongue by introduc+ h] to a second wife4 #8,i h be5 a great fool1' 0 8 m\rnful reply2 & aft] a pause1 #8,i ?9k ,i %all h to divorce h]2 b ,i love h] v mu* 9 spite ( h] temp]4' #8,well1 n[1 ab\t numb] two8' ,i ask$4 #8,x came ab\t l ?is1' he began aga94 #8,y mu/ rememb] ,ahm$ ,abd-er-,rahman1 ! old dragoman t us$ to come "h4' #8,i don't rememb] him1 b no matt]4' #8,well1 ,i ask$ 8 advice ab\t cur+ a wife's temp]1 b got little enc\ragem5t f him4 ,! few rem$ies he sugge/$1 & :i* ,i tri$1 only made matt]s worse4 #8,"o day he said to me3 8,mohamm$1 ,i h always lov$ y z if y 7 a son ( m9e1 & z ,i h /ill an unm>ri$ daught]1 x w\ld add to my happ9ess z well z to y\rs if y became my son-9-law4 ,i %all only ask a small d[ry ( y1 :]eas if ,i 7 to m>ry h] to ! "o-ey$ ,mu/pha1 he c\ld & w\ld give a mu* l>g] "o4 ,%e is "y & beautiful1 & has ! sweete/ disposition2 & :ile ,i kept y wait+ 9 ! h% ! o!r day1 x 0 b to give h] an opportunity ( gaz+ on y ?r\gh ! mu%rbiyeh4 ,y c divorce y\r ,ra%e$a & live happily ) my ,ftimah40 #8,?is s\nd$ v well1 & ,i tri$ to get ! old man to fix ! sum ,i %\ld h to pay z ! d[ry4 ,he kept tell+ me ( ! price "o-ey$ ,mu/pha 0 prep>$ to pay2 b ,i want$ to "k no?+ ab\t ,mu/pha1 & h s9ce f\nd out t ?is 0 all lies4 ,aft] _m days he agre$ to cont5t himself ) t5 p\nds1 & ,i paid him half t sum1 ! o!r half1 z y "k1 to be paid :5 ! m>riage _h tak5 place4 #8,i _h done well t season1 & sp5t mu* ( my e>n+s on ! w$d+2 :5 ,i left my fri5ds bel[ to g to ! h>eem1 ,i gave my bride a h&some pres5t z 8! price ( ! uncov]+ ( ! face10 & :5 ,i ?rew back ! %awl1 & saw h] = ! fir/ "t1 ,i ne>ly fa9t$4' ,x 0 z mu* z ,i c\ld d n to laugh1 b ! poor fell[ seem$ s ov]come 9 recall+ 8 bad b>ga9 t ,i tri$ to look sympa!tic4 #8,i ?\ght ( divorc+ h] !re & !n1' he w5t on1 #8b ,i _h n ! he>t to pron\nce ^? t]rible words on ! day ( ! poor creature's w$d+4 ,%e 0 ugly & old--at lea/ ?irty--& _h z br[n a face z ,i h4' ,aft] a pause he w5t on4 #8,h] fa!r--may ,allah black5 8 face6--did n lie z reg>ds h] temp]2 b ev5 ! be/ ( temp]s c\ld n )/& ! je]+ & sc(f+ to :i* ,ra%e$a us$ to treat h]4 ,my "m us$ to take h] "p1 & we _h m r[s betwe5 ,ra%e$a & my "m4 ,:5 ,i c\ld /& x no long]1 ,i w5t ) two witnesses to ! ,kadi's c\rt & _h h] writt5 a na%izeh1 & %e return$ to h] own p4 ,ftimah tri$ to "m our little ,hassan1 b %e c\ld n console him4 ,he got ill1 & ,i 0 afraid we might lose him4 ,i !n took a room ne> ,saida ,z5ab1 & fet*$ ,ra%e$a away f h] p1 & %e & ! *ild are n[ liv+ !re4 ,my life has be5 m peaceful s9ce !n1 b ! co/ ( two h\seholds makes me a v poor man4 ,i assure y1 ,mr4 ,tyndale1 t ?\gh ,i did v well la/ season1 ,i h>dly "k :]e to turn = a pia/re4' ,x w\ld be two mon?s or m be=e ! next season w\ld be 9 full sw+1 s we arrang$ t he w\ld accompany me dur+ t "t1 & w\ld procure me "s "o else :ile he 0 engag$ ) ! t\ri/s4 ,he promis$ to be 9 good "t ! next morn+1 & took 8 dep>ture4 ,probably no?+ has t5d$ m to sep>ate ! ,ea/ f ! ,we/ ?an _! diff]+ views z to ! relation ( ! sexes4 ,su* education z !re is has until q rec5tly be5 entirely conf9$ to ! sons ( ! m well-to-d1 & ev5 at pres5t ! in/ances ( a girl be+ taught to read or write are v r>e4 ,x !re=e foll[s t z only "o p>5t has _h any m5tal tra9+1 ! (fspr+ has less m5tal capacity to inh]it ?an :]e bo? p>5ts w h _h "s =m ( s*ool+4 ,! religi\s in/ruction :i* =ms s l>ge a "p ( a ,moslem's tra9+ is almo/ entirely )held f ! girls1 :i* acc\nts no d\bt = ! errone\s idea held by ,europeans t ,mohamm$ans believe wom5 to h no s\ls4 ,religi\s text-books give pages z to a *ild's duty to its fa!r1 & !y sum up 9 a c\ple ( l9es ! duty to ! "m4 ,educat$ ,egyptians w (t5 compla9 t _! wives are no companions to !m1 b :at c !y expect :5 _! wom5k9d are br\ght up 9 a mann] s di/9ctly inf]ior8 ,polygamy is less common ?an is g5]ally suppos$1 b a man c divorce 8 wife s easily t he has n ! necessity ( keep+ m ?an "o at a "t4 ,x is true t a fa!r w hesitate to give 8 daught] to a man :o has (t5 us$ ! divorce c\rt1 & t he w also advise 8 son to keep to "o wife if he possibly c4 ,a "y doctor1 :o appe>$ to be happily m>ri$1 told me ( ! advice 8 fa!r gave him previ\s to ! w$d+4 #8,don't be fooli% en\gh1 ,o my son1 ev] to take a second wife2 = if y d1 tr\ble is sure to beg94 ,%\ld y tire ( ,z5ab1 get h] ano!r dress2 wom5 are all mu* ! same1 x is ! clo!s :i* make ! diff]5ce4' ,i ask$ if ?is plan _h succe$$4 #8,yes1 only too well1' said my fri5d1 #8= %e is cont9ually enc\rag+ me to get h] a new dress4' ,he also told me t previ\s to 8 w$d+ he _h n ev5 se5 8 wife veil$1 ?\gh !y 7 br\ght up 9 ! same t[n4 ,8 si/]s _h describ$ h] s well to him t :5 he saw h] = ! fir/ "t1 %e 0 v mu* l :at he _h anticipat$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,arab ,,w$d+ ,,procession ,i h describ$ m fully else:]e a m>riage to :i* my wife & ,i 7 invit$ z gue/s1 & z su* full details ( ! c]emonial are giv5 9 ,lane's ,mod]n ,egyptians ,i %all n dwell on x "h4 ,lane's argum5t to ^? :o sev]ely condemn ,islamic m>riage laws is ?is3 #8,z ,moses all[$ ,god's *os5 p1 = ! h>dness ( _! he>ts1 to put away _! wives1 & =bade nei!r polygamy nor concub9age1 he :o believes t ,moses 0 div9ely inspir$ to enact ! be/ laws = 8 p1 mu/ hold ! p]mission ( ^! practices to be less injuri\s to morality ?an _! prohibition1 among a p simil> to ! anci5t ,jews4' ,?is s\nds fairly plausible1 b we mu/ n =get t ,mohamm$ans accept ,*ri/ z a prophet z well z ,moses1 & also av[ t ea* prophet taught !m some?+ high] ?an ! prec$+ "o _h done1 & !re is c]ta9ly no lic5ce z to polygamy or concub9age all[$ 9 ! tea*+ ( our ,"l4 ,_! la/ prophet1 & accord+ to !m _! greate/1 ,mohamm$1 _h ov]look$ ?is1 & probably only codifi$ :at _h m or less become a common practice 9 8 day4 ,z ! mod]n ,jews n[ hold to "o wife j z d ! p among/ :om !y live1 s x is possible t 9 "t ! ,moslems may also modify _! m>riage cu/oms4 ,supply & dem& has already _h its effect1 = ) ! re/rictions on slav]y1 concub9age has ( necessity less5$ & respect = ! husb& ( "o wife is increas+ among/ ! bett] educat$ classes4 ,i />t$ on a subject on ! foll[+ morn+1 ( an old h\se built alongside & ov]hang+ an entrance to a mosque4 ,a little c(fee-%op "u an ar*way1 on ! opposite side ( ! /reet1 made an excell5t po9t ( vantage f :i* ,i c\ld d my "w )\t attract+ too mu* att5tion4 ,mohamm$1 :o accompani$ me1 made arrangem5ts ) ! own] ( ! /all = my accommodation1 & sat on ! high b5* ne> me1 s z to keep (f ! m inquisitive4 ,an ideal po/ = him1 = he c\ld smoke a nrgeeleh1 sip c(fee1 & *at ) ! o!r cli5ts z mu* z he pleas$4 ,he w\ld bru% away ! flies ) "o end ( 8 :isp1 & poke ) ! o!r end any small boy :o v5tur$ too ne> me4 #8,if "o comes x may n matt]1 b if "o /ays fifty o!rs w come also1' he w\ld say1 z ! /ick ( ! :isp & a boy's head came 9 contact4 ,x 0 also 9 ! int]e/ ( ! own] ( ! c(fee-%op1--z ,mohamm$ 0 c>eful to expla9 to him1--to make ?+s com=table = me1 z ,i %\ld sp5d _m morn+s "h if ,i 7 n mole/$ 9 my "w4 ,besides my subject1 :i* 0 a v beautiful "o 9 itself1 ?is 0 a useful p]* f :i* to make /udies ( ! p & animals :i* pass$4 ,x 0 9 ! ,nahasse51 "o ( ! busie/ ?or\ghf>es ( ,cairo1 & sc>cely an h\r w\ld g by )\t he>+ ! zagh>eet1 ! %rill cries ( joy :i* told ( ! approa* ( a bridal procession1 or ! doleful *orus1 #8,l ilha illa-llh1' w\ld prep>e "o = ! pass+ ( a fun]al4 ,x has happ5$ t ! zagh>eet 0 n always ! accompanim5t ( ! m *e]ful procession1 = ^! %rill cries ( joy replace ^? ( lam5tation :5 a welee1 a p]son ( great sanctity1 is c>ri$ to 8 la/ re/+-place4 ,! idea convey$ is t ! joys n[ await+ him m ?an comp5sate ^? he has left beh9d = 8 loss4 ,!re is a curi\s sup]/ition1 or maybe "s o!r cause :i* we _c expla91 t if ^! cries ( joy cease = m ?an a m9ute ! be>]s ( ! corpse _c proce$4 ,x is also ma9ta9$ t a welee is able to direct ! /eps ( 8 be>]s to a p>ticul> spot :]e he may wi% to be buri$4 ,lane tells ! foll[+ anecdote1 describ+ an +5i\s mode ( puzzl+ a dead sa9t ( ?is k9d4 #8,"s m5 7 lately be>+ ! corpse ( a welee to a tomb prep>$ = x 9 ! great cemet]y on ! nor? ( ! metropolis2 b on arriv+ at ! gate call$ ,bab-en-,nasr1 :i* leads to ?is cemet]y1 !y f\nd !mselves unable to proce$ fur!r f ! cause above-m5tion$4 8,x seems10 said "o ( ! be>]s1 8t ! %eykh is det]m9$ n to be buri$ 9 ! cemet]y ( ,bab-en-,nasr2 & :at %all we d80 ,!y 7 all mu* p]plex$2 b be+ z ob/9ate z ! sa9t himself1 !y did n imm$iately yield to 8 caprice4 ,retreat+ a few paces1 & !n advanc+ ) a quick /ep1 !y ?\ght by su* an impetus to =ce ! corpse ?r\gh ! gateway2 b _! ef=ts 7 unsuccessful2 & ! same exp]im5t !y repeat$ 9 va9 sev]al times4 ,!y !n plac$ ! bi] on ! gr\nd1 to re/ & consult2 & "o ( !m beckon+ away 8 comrades to a di/ance1 beyond ! he>+ ( ! dead sa9t1 said to !m1 8,let u take up ! bi] aga91 & turn x r\nd quickly sev]al times till ! %eykh becomes giddy2 he !n w n "k 9 :at direction we are go+1 & we may take him easily ?r\gh ! gate40 ,?is !y did2 ! sa9t 0 puzzl$1 z !y expect$1 & quietly buri$ 9 ! place he _h /riv5 to avoid4' ,i witness$ a simil> ?+ 9 ,japan1 a ye> or two ago2 b 9 t case x 0 an idol :i* %[$ a simil> ob/9acy4 ,x 0 at ! #8,gion ,matsuri1' :i* annually takes place at ,kyto1 :5 ! ,%9to god ,susa-no-o is c>ri$ to 8 ,o ,tabi%o--t is1 8 soj\rn 9 ! c\ntry ) 8 goddess4 ,no soon] _h ! god be5 plac$ on 8 portable ?rone ?an ! wilde/ excitem5t 0 manife/$ by 8 be>]s2 "s wi%$ to c>ry him "o way & "s ano!r1 :ile o!rs seem$ root$ to ! gr\nd4 ,a ,japanese g5tleman1 :o 0 ) me1 expla9$ t until all ! be>]s felt drawn to pull "o way1 x 0 n kn[n by :i* r\te ! god _h decid$ to g4 ,x is s+ul> t a simil> sup]/ition %\ld obta9 ) p diff]+ z mu* z ! ,egyptians d to ! ,japanese4 ,! con/ant fun]als :i* pass$ betwe5 me & my subject seem$ little he$$ by ,mohamm$ & ! o!r frequ5t]s ( ! caf1 except :5 ! *orus m5tion$ ! "n ( ! prophet1 "s w\ld murmur1 #8,god bless & save him'--#8,salla-llhu-'aleyhi wasellem4' ,! bridal procession1 on ! contr>y1 seem$ to h a v depress+ effect on my man1 & he w\ld h>dly *e] up till a di/ant wail sugge/$ ano!r fun]al4 ,on "o occasion ,i recognis$ ! camels ) ! magnific5t trapp+s us$ :5 ! holy c>pet is convey$ to ,mecca2 !y 7 do+ duty z a k9d ( vangu>d to a bride :o foll[$ 9 a litt] swung betwe5 two o!r camels4 ,x 0 a mo/ picturesque sight1 & "o to take z _m notes ( z possible = ref]5ce to 9 a future picture4 ,=tunately ! progress ( ! procession is sl[1 ! traffic ( ! /reet compell+ x frequ5tly to /op4 ,?is w\ld enable me to get ahead ( x & jot d[n "s ( ! arrangem5ts ( col\r4 ,! heavy gold & crimson trapp+s ( "o camel1 a comb9ation ( gre5 & gold on a second1 :ile ! gold brocade ( a ?ird 0 9 a purple sett+2 all ?is 9 a blaze ( sun%9e1 yet subdu$ comp>$ to ! light caught by ! brass kettle-drums4 ,! backgr\nd 9 "s places1 too cut up 9 viol5t pat*es ( light & %ade by ! awn+s ov] ! %ops or too intricate ) ! draw+ ( a s>ac5ic mosque entrance1 fill$ me ) confusion z to h[ ,i c\ld ev] treat su* a subject4 ,:5 ! broad pla9 surfaces ( ,b>kk's & ,kalan's %r9es made a sett+ to ?is gorge\s procession1 ,i felt t my task _h become m hopeful4 ,! numb] ( facts ,i _h to cr[d into my memory 9 a half-h\r or s1 ,i f\nd m exhau/+ ?an a long morn+'s "w on a subject su* z ! "o ,i _h left to pursue ?is "o4 ,to return to ! little caf :]e ,i _h left ,mohamm$ 9 *>ge ( my pa9t+ mat]ials1 pack up my traps & g back to ! hotel1 0 ab\t z mu* z ,i 0 fit = dur+ ! re/ ( t morn+4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,! ,,mosque ,,( ,,muri/,n ,,kala,n1 ,,my ,,exp]i5ce ,,) ,,! ,,fak,r1 ,,& ,a ,,digression ,,on ,,! ,,subject ,,( ,,d]vi%es ,pass+ once m ! mosque ( ,kalan1 ,i 0 attract$ to "o ( its w9d[s2 n on acc\nt ( its p>ticul> int]e/ z su*1 b ( its possibilities z a po9t ( vantage f :i* ,i might pa9t ! opposite side ( ! road1 &1 unmole/$1 make /udies ( ! int]e/+ incid5ts :i* take place 9 x4 ,!re 0 /ill "t to g to ! ,wakfs m9i/ry be=e x clos$ = ! midday #8sie/a4' #8,el ,wakfs' is ! "n ( :at we might t]m ! ,bo>d ( ,religi\s ,end[m5ts4 ,x is "h :]e arti/s mu/ apply = a pass to all[ !m to pa9t inside ! mosques4 ,i =tunately f\nd ,h]z ,bey1 ! ar*itect ( ! ,wakfs1 & he v k9dly gave me :at ,i requir$4 ,ap>t f ! w9d[ ( ,kalan's mosque :i* w\ld be ( great use to me1 its int]ior is "o ( ! f9e/ & mo/ ornate 9 ! :ole ( ,cairo4 ,i _h f\nd sev]al subjects !re 9 =m] ye>s1 & ,i look$ =w>d to f9d+ a pleasant asylum 9 :i* ,i c\ld re/fully d "s "w aft] ! fatigue ( "s days ( /reet pa9t+4 ,! mosque 0 fall+ into a ru9\s /ate :5 ,i _h la/ ent]$ x4 ,orig9ally mo/ gorge\s1 its col\r+ _h !n be5 s(t5$ d[n by m ?an six c5turies s9ce en-,nasir complet$ ! dome :i* cov]s ! tomb ( 8 fa!r4 ,i also look$ =w>d to a cool] spot ?an my caf1 = ,cairo has f> f cool$ d[n dur+ ! fir/ days ( ,novemb]4 ,?\gh ! !rmomet] may n regi/] s high z 9 ,june1 ! damp heat dur+ ! high ,nile is m felt ?an ! great]1 b dry]1 temp]ature ( e>ly summ]4 ,i 0 prep>$ n to f9d ! mosque z pa9table z 9 ! e>li] days1 #8,be=e ,decay's effac+ f+]s ,h swept ! l9es :]e beauty l+]s'2 yet ,i 0 h>dly prep>$ to f9d x to all appe>ance a br& new build+4 ,x _h be5 admirably re/or$1 & re/oration 0 necess>y1 ,i h no d\bt1 to prev5t its fall+ into complete ru91 z s _m o!r monum5ts h done4 ,b1 alas1 its poetry 0 gone4 ,nor is ?is likely to return s long z x is kept z a %[-place m]ely1 & only visit$ by ! t\ri/ or /ud5t ( ,s>ac5ic ar*itecture4 ,! hundr$ & "o signs :i* sugge/$ ! wor%ipp]s :o _h ga!r$ "h dur+ ! six bygone c5turies 7 all swept away2 ! worn pray+ mats 7 gone1 & any ( ! movable furniture :i* is n n[ %elv$ & labell$ 9 a museum may h f\nd its way to "s deal]'s %op1--! place = :i* ^! ?+s 7 design$ kn[s !m no m4 ,i />t$ a l>ge draw+1 = 9 spite ( all x is a beautiful build+1 & looks n[ 9 all probability v mu* z x look$ :5 ,nasir's "w-p left x4 ,i work$ h>d at ?is draw+2 sp5t :ole morn+s gett+ ! intricate arabesque patt]ns into p]spective & _! relative tones2 b ! long] ,i work$ ! m my draw+ became ! lifeless p]spective elevation plate ( "s book on ar*itecture4 ,"s day1 :5 my la/ impressions ( ! place may fade & ,i may rememb] m cle>ly ! %r9e reta9+ its human associations1 ,i may possibly be able to take up ?is draw+ aga9 & infuse "s life into x4 ,i did bett] f ! w9d[ ov]look+ ! ,nahasse54 ,! ru9\s dom$ mosque--built be=e ! "o ( ,kalan--to %elt] ! rema9s ( ,ayyub es-,salih1 has be5 heavily dealt ) by #8decay's effac+ f+]s4' ,copp]-smi?s h rigg$ up _! /alls aga9/ its crumbl+ walls1 & ! mosque s*ool /ill hangs toge!r suffici5tly to be us$ by ! y\?s repeat+ _! ,koran4 ,?is & an ev]-mov+ cr[d ( p _h at all ev5ts a s\l left 9 x4 ,my regrets at hav+ lo/ s mu* "t 9 produc+ an arti/ic failure decreas$ 9 proportion z ! use ,i 0 able to make ( ?is w9d[ increas$4 ,fac+ imm$iately ! /reet lead+ to ! ,beit-el-,kadi1 ,i 0 able to take notes1 on a m>ket day1 ( all ! incid5ts m5tion$ 9 ! la/ *apt]1 & at ord9>y times !re w\ld always be m ?an en\gh subject-matt] to furni% ! =egr\nd ( ! c\ple ( draw+s ,i made f "h4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,*eap ,,ride ,! mosque be+ n[ a #8sight' m ?an a place ( wor%ip1 a fee is *>g$ = admittance2 & ev5 ?is matt]1 :i* ,i 0 regrett+ be=e n[1 prov$ an advantage to me1 = ! att5tions ( ! inquisitive are usually m m>k$ :ile mak+ figure /udies ?an :ile pa9t+ "s inanimate subject4 ,small boys w\ld occasionally crawl on to ! sill & hang on to ! grat+ to try & see :at ,i 0 do+1 till my man1 :om ,i kept outside1 w\ld s5d !m away4 ,a ragg$ fakir *ose ! bit ( pavem5t j bel[ my w9d[ to d a little bask+ 9 ! sun4 ,mohamm$ :isp]$ to me1 ?r\gh ! grat+1 t he 0 a great sa9t1 & squatt$ next to him 9 ! full od\r ( 8 sanctity4 ,a curr5t ( air w\ld n[ & aga9 br+ "s ( ?is od\r my way2 b ,i re/ra9$ ,mohamm$ f di/urb+ ! fakir 9 8 sleep4 ,o!rs 7 n s consid]ate1 =1 9 spite ( ! old man's sa9tly repute1 a numb] ( "y hooligans soon surr\nd$ him1 & comm5ts on 8 appe>ance provok$ su* laught] z to wake him up4 ,! fakir n[ seem$ z "o possess$ ( a devil2 he laid ab\t ) 8 /aff & curs$ 8 torm5tors ) a flu5cy :i* only a long practice1 dur+ 8 unreg5]ate days1 c\ld h giv5 him4 ,a "y woman at a safe di/ance call$ out to him t ! ghawaga1 t is ,i1 0 sket*+ him1 :]eupon he turn$ r\nd & direct$ ! fl[ ( bad language 9 my direction4 ,! grat+ 0 a protection f ! old fell['s /aff1 & an unus$-up lot ( curses soon fell on ! head ( ,mohamm$1 :o mov$ him (f4 ,too mu* att5tion hav+ be5 drawn to my w9d[1 ,i retir$ ) my mat]ials )9 ! %ades ( ! mosque int]ior4 ,i made inquiries ab\t ! old man4 ,! t]m1 fakir1 is us$ 9 ,egypt to d5ote a w&]+ d]vi%1 & is also appli$ to any poor begg>4 ,8 rags 7 n simply ! torn g>m5ts ( a poor man1 b a c>efully made coat ( _m pat*es & ( v>i\sly col\r$ /uffs1 kn[n z a #8dilk4' ,%r$s ( col\r$ clo? 7 also fa/5$ to ! end ( 8 /aff4 ,he wore no turban1 & _h supplem5t$ 8 own hair ) :at ,i believe ladies call #8a front' made f a horse's tail4 ,i 0 told t he belong$ to ! ,rifaiyeh ord] ( d]vi%es1 & 0 fam\s 9 8 day = be+ able to pass swords ?r\gh 8 body )\t leav+ a w\nd2 he w\ld also *>m s]p5ts & scorpions away f a h\se1 eat live coals & *ew glass4 ,z ,i h se5 _m appe> to d ^! wond]s )\t necess>ily be+ consid]$ v holy m51 !re rema9$ a m pot5t reason = 8 reput$ sanctity4 ,i tapp$ my =ehead once or twice1 sugge/+ t an excess ( miracles mu/ h made him mad4 #8,8 m9d is 9 heav5 & only 8 body rema9s on e>?1' 0 ! answ] to my sugge/$ "q4 ,a sup]/iti\s awe = p]sons ^: intellect is affect$ obta9s all ov] ! ,mohamm$an _w--! ,cairo hooligan be+ app>5tly ! exception4 ,! great majority ( d]vi%es are m5 ( "s trade or ano!r & take "p 9 a zikr dur+ ! religi\s fe/ivals2 a few lead a tramp's life & beg _! way f t[n to t[n :]e "o ( ^! fe/ivals may be tak+ place2 :ile ^? :o are m5tally afflict$ )\t be+ actually dang]\s c g5]ally f9d ! :]e)al to live 9 ! di/rict to :i* !y belong4 ,! latt] are n[ r>ely met ) 9 ! ,european p>ts ( ,cairo1 & z !y seem g5]ally b]eft ( all s5se ( dec5cy1 ! police may h some?+ to say 9 ! matt]4 ,i att5d$ a zikr dur+ my fir/ visit to ,egypt1 :5 an ev5+ ) ! ,h[l+ or ,danc+ d]vi%es 0 /ill look$ ^u z "o ( ! #8sights4' ,^! 7 (t5 got up by ! dragomans z an ent]ta9m5t = ! t\ri/s4 ,h4 ,h4 ! ,kh$ive has s9ce =bidd5 ^! %[s z liable to br+ ,islamism into disrepute4 ,"s wit rem>k$ ( ! dragomans1 t !y believ$ 9 ,mohamm$ & 8 pr(its4 ,! d]vi%es 7or d>wee%1 z !y are call$ 9 ,egypt7 7 g5u9e ones1 & argu$ t _! religi\s ex]cises might be j z acceptable ev5 if !y result$ 9 "s pr(it 9 ! %ape ( a #8bak%ee%' f ! unbeliev]s4 ,! fir/ "p ( ! p]=mance 0 ! same z may be se5 any ev5+1 9 any village1 dur+ ! mon? ( ,ramadan4 ,ab\t a doz5 m5 sat 9 a d\ble r[ fac+ ea* o!r1 &1 tak+ _! "t f a lead]1 began by sl[ly repeat+ ! fir/ words ( ! ,moslem's confession ( fai?3 #8,l ilha illa-llh1' :i* !y accompani$ ) a sway+ ( _! bodies backw>ds & =w>ds4 ,gradually !y w\ld increase ! spe$ ( ! repetition & ! movem5ts1 always tak+ _! "t f ! lead]4 ,?is got fa/] & fa/] till _! *ief %\t$ #8,allh6' ,!n1 repeat+ ?is "o ^w1 ! sway+ ( _! bodies became s rapid t "o or two fell d[n exhau/$4 ,! rema9d] kept x up z long z _! physical endurance w\ld all[2 _! m\?s foam+1 _! faces livid1 & a mad look 9 _! eyes4 ,pres5tly m w\ld fall d[n2 "s ly+ /ill1 & o!rs to all appe>ance 9 _! dea? agony4 ,! cry ( #8,allah' f9ally ceas$ :5 ! lead] fell =w>d1 &1 sav+ a gasp or a gurgle1 all 0 /ill4 ,"s ( u 7 prep>+ to leave :5 a sign f ! conductor ( our p>ty kept u 9 our seats4 ,^! bodies /ret*$ on ! floor--to all appe>ance dead or dy+--look$ gha/ly 9 ! light ( ! flick]+ tor*es4 ,we sat on "s "t wond]+ :at ! next move w\ld be4 ,a heavy brea?+ ) alt]nate *ok+ on ! "p ( "o ( ! p]=m]s direct$ our att5tion 8 way4 ,aft] mak+ sev]al attempts to rise1 he succe$$ 9 gett+ into a sitt+ po/ure & />$ vacantly at u4 ,:5 he seem$ consci\s ( :]e he 0 & :at he 0 do+1 he rose rapidly to 8 feet & spun r\nd & r\nd = sev]al m9utes2 he next seiz$ hold ( a tor*1 cont9u$ 8 gyrations1 & )\t /opp+ held ! light$ tor* "u 8 "o g>m5t1 all[+ ! flames to pass all ov] 8 body4 ,x rem9d$ me horribly ( ! /raw fires ) :i* peasants are wont to burn ! bri/les (f a /uck pig4 ,a =eign pr9cess :o 0 ( our p>ty1 & on ^: behalf ?is zikr _h be5 arrang$1 _h n[ se5 z mu* z %e c\ld /&1 & %e & h] imm$iate suite w5t away4 ,! p]=m]s seem$ q unconsci\s ( ?is di/urbance2 ! man kept on sp9n+ r\nd1 toa/+ 8 *e/ & !n 8 back till he let fall ! tor* & sank d[n on ! matt+4 ,ano!r _h 9 ! mean:ile come to life aga9 & begun to sp9 l a teetotum4 ,he drew two knives f 8 girdle &1 :ile cont9u+ 8 motion1 re/$ ! po9ts on 8 l[] eyelids2 he next hack$ 8 face & =ehead1 & :5 ! blood-lett+ _h suffici5tly cool$ 8 fr5zy he jo9$ 8 companions on ! floor4 ,! l[ mutt]$ #8,allh' f ! o!r d]vi%es %[$ t !y 7 awak5+ f ! k9d ( cataleptic sleep !y _h fall5 into4 ,a ?ird "o n[ arose & />tl$ "o ( ! spectators by ru%+ =w>d & seiz+ a tumbl] ne> him2 he bit (f pieces ( glass & crun*$ !m 9 8 tee?4 ,he look$ absolutely loa?some z he appe>$ to swall[ ! glass1 ) ! blood /ream+ f 8 m\?4 ,8 crav+ = glass 0 n satisfi$ yet4 ,! glass ( an oil lamp ne> me caught 8 eye1 & cat*+ hold ( x1 hot z x 01 he *ew$ x up z a half-/>v$ dog w\ld *ew a bone4 ,i _h n[ _h m ?an en\gh1 & slipp$ quietly (f be=e a f\r? began 8 #8turn4' ,mohamm$ foll[$ me out4 ,he 0 n v communicative ab\t ! unnatural orgy we _h assi/$ at1 & z he is a good ,moslem1 ,i fancy he seem$ a%am$ ( ! p]=mance4 ,:ile walk+ d[n ! ,m\sky on ! foll[+ morn+1 a cabman seat$ on ! box ( 8 arabeyeh greet$ ,mohamm$ ) an unusually *e]y #8,salaam ,alkum4' ,! answ]1 #8,alkum es-,salaam1 ya ibne ,kelb1' ) an accompany+ %ake ( ! f+]1 0 surpris+2 t is1 #8,! peace be ) y1 ,o son ( a dog4' ,! cabby laugh$ & drove on4 ,mohamm$ look$ r consci\sly at me1 & see+ t ,i look$ puzzl$1 he ask$ me if ,i did n recall t cabman's face4 ,yes1 ,i _h se5 him be=e1 b :5 or :]e ,i c\ld n say4 #8,:y1 he is ! d>wee% :o ate all t brok5 glass la/ night4' ,true en\gh1 x 0 ! v man6 ,b no premire danseuse se5 ) h] t9sel & spangles beh9d ! footlights1 & aft]w>ds met 9 ev]yday g>b1 c\ld h %[n z great a contra/ z did ?is cabby & ! wild d]vi% ( ! previ\s night4 ,he 0 dress$ 9 ,european clo!s1 except = ! r$ t>b\*1 & he seem$ none ! worse = 8 la/ night's glass supp]4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,! ,,fe/ival ,,( ,,! #8,,hasaneyn' ,,& ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,! ,,pr9cess ,,zohra ,! promise ,i _h made to my acqua9tances 9 ! ,khan ,khalil1 to come aga91 0 soon fulfill$4 ,?is great baza> attracts me mo/ :5 ! season 9 ! mod]n qu>t]s ( ,cairo is ov] or n begun4 ,i h pa9t$ s _m ( its %ops & corn]s1 t ,i & my fai?ful s]vant mu/ be z famili> to ! /all-hold]s z !y are to u4 ,an opportunity occurr$ to see x by night1 =1 except on ! great fe/ival ( ! #8,hasaneyn1' ! gates ( ! ,khan are clos$ be=e ! ev5+ pray]4 ,! mosque ( ,hoseyn /&s opposite ! ea/ entrance1 & x is ! "o mo/ us$ by ! %opkeep]s ( ^! baza>s4 ,x is a spaci\s build+1 b ( little int]e/ f an ar*itectural po9t ( view4 ,its great popul>ity is "o cause ( ?is1 = money c\ld always be f\nd to re/ore x1 & unhappily a great wave ( en?usiasm = ! %r9e ( ! m>tyr$ sons ( ,ali obta9$ dur+ a late p]iod ( debas$ ,s>ac5ic ar*itecture1 dur+ :i* ! mosque 0 almo/ entirely rebuilt4 ,be=e ! ,napoleonic invasion ( ,egypt no ,*ri/ian or ,jew d>$ pass d[n ! /reet 9 :i* x /&s1 & ev5 at ! pres5t day1 :5 =eign]s may visit ! o!r mosques ( ,cairo1 :ile ! s]vices are n be+ held1 ! actual %r9e :]e ! head ( ,hoseyn lies may only be ent]$ by ! fai?ful4 ,on ! night 9 "q x 0 possible to see z mu* z ,i want$1 z ! doors /ood wide op51 & ! int]ior 0 light$ ) ?\s&s ( lamps4 ,! :ole /reet 0 ro($ ov] ) p>ticol\r$ t5t-clo?1 :i* caught ! light ( ! tor*es ( ! d]vi%es :o fil$ 9 at ! c5tral doorway4 ,! noise ( ! cymbals1 drums1 & hautboys ( ! musicians m+l$ ) ! babel ( voices :i* came f ! mosque4 ,_m inside 7 p]=m+ ! zikr1 & o!rs 7 m>*+ r\nd & recit+ ! ,f?ah1 or a =m ( bless+ on ! prophet4 ,e h\se 0 pr(usely decorat$ ) flags1 lamps1 & fe/oons ( col\r$ glass globes4 ,! cafs 7 ov]fl[+ ) cu/om]s1 & high b5*es on ! pavem5ts outside 7 all occupi$ ) li/5]s to ! pr(essional /ory-tell]s :o relat$ ! de$s ( ,hasan & ,hoseyn4 ,x seem$ /range to he> ! names ( ^! two bro!rs f ! lips ( s _m or?odox ,moslems1 = at a previ\s fe/ival 9 _! hon\r1 :i* ,i witness$1 only su* z 7 "u police protection d>$ %\t #8,hasan1 ,hoseyn4' ,x 0 :5 ! h]etic ,%eeas1 mo/ly ,p]sians1 p>ad$ ! /reets ( ,cairo--a gruesome sight x 0--b at pres5t we w conf9e ourselves to ! do+s ( ! or?odox ,sunnees1 to :i* sect ! bulk ( ! ,egyptians belong4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,khan ,,khalil1 ,,cairo #8,?\gh ^? dogs ( ,%eeas1' an ,egyptian w tell y1 #8almo/ make gods ( ,hoseyn & also ( 8 fa!r ,ali1 is t a reason :y we %\ld fail to hon\r 8 bir?day8 ,0 he n1 aft] all1 a gr&son ( ! ,prophet8' ,x is =tunate1 h[ev]1 t bo? sects d n keep ! fe/ival on ! same day1 or x w\ld be m ?an ! police c\ld d to prev5t !m com+ to bl[s4 ,h[ diff]5t ! ,khan look$1 light$ up z x !n 0 by hundr$s ( lamps 9 & ar\nd ! %ops6 ,9 places brilliantly col\r$ t5t-clo?s /ret*$ across ! lanes1 & on e ma/aba ! /ore-keep] 0 ent]ta9+ 8 fri5ds4 ,! d>k int]vals 7 ! %ops kept by ,*ri/ians or ,jews1 :i* 7 c>efully %utt]$ up = ! night4 ,! silk m]*ant1 ,mu/pha1 & 8 opposite neighb\r ,seleem 7 bo? "h1 & ,i 0 n sorry to accept ! =m]'s k9dly invitation to sit d[n4 ,be+ unus$ to smok+ ! n>geeleh or ! almo/ obsolete %ibook :i* 7 (f]$ me1 he procur$ "s cig>ettes & clapp$ 8 h&s to summon ! boy f ! c(fee-/all4 ,he regrett$ t ! mool$ ( ! ,hasaneyn 0 n n[ z 9 =m] days1 :5 h>dly a %op 9 ! :ole ,khan 0 n light$ up l z 8 & ,seleem's4 #8,jews1 ,naz>5es1 ,p>sees1 & :at n else1 7 invad+ ! /alls held by ! fai?ful1' he said1 po9t+ to ! %utt]s ( ^? un5light5$ p4 #8,allahu6 ,allahu6' f ! /reet outside 0 cle>ly he>d dur+ ! pauses 9 ! conv]sation4 #8,0 x possible n[ = a ,naz>5e to ent] ! mosque & see ! tomb :]e ,hoseyn's head lay buri$8' ,i ask$1 & also %[$ him ! ticket ,i _h1 all[+ me to pa9t 9 ! mosques ( ,cairo4 ,he read ! in/ructions1 & po9t$ out a l9e :i* made an exception = t p>ticul> %r9e z well z = two o!rs4 ,! talk !n drift$ to an in/ance :5 "o ( my c\ntrym51 disguis$ z a ,moslem1 0 accid5tally discov]$ ne> ! tomb :ile ! mool$ 0 be+ held2 ( h[ he 0 ne>ly kill$ by ! infuriat$ mob & sav$ by ! int]v5tion ( ! pr9cess ,zohra4 ,! /ory is s full ( dramatic int]e/ t1 in/ead ( giv+ ! g>bl$ v]sions :i* obta9 9 ! baza>s1 ,i w try to tell x z ,max ,ey? tells x 9 #8,h9t] ,pflug und ,s*raub/ock4' ,ey? 0 9 ,egypt dur+ ! lifetime ( ! pr9cess & he>d all ! details f a =m] memb] ( h] h\sehold4 ,zohra 0 ! y\nge/ liv+ daught] ( ,mohamm$ ,ali1 ,egypt's fir/ vic]oy4 ,%e 0 ! idol ( h] fa!r & p>took ( 8 "* m ?an did any ( h] num]\s bro!rs & si/]s4 ,h] *ildhood 0 sp5t 9 ! same h>eem z t ( h] nephew ,abbas1 :o 0 ! same age z h]self4 ,self-will$ *ildr5 z !y bo? 71 qu>rels 7 ( frequ5t occurr5ce4 ,:5 ,abbas w\ld taunt h] t %e 0 only a little girl1 %e w\ld rem9d him t %e 0 ! great ,ali's daught]1 :]eas he 0 only ! son ( h] bro!r ,tussn4 ,words end+ 9 bl[s "o day1 ,abbas 0 pack$ (f to a s*ool & a gov]ness 0 f\nd = ! "y pr9cess4 ,wi%+ to h h] taught bo? ,engli% & ,fr5*1 !y engag$ ! s]vices ( a "y ,iri% lady1 a ,miss ,o',donald1 :o _h be5 br\ght up 9 ,p>is & spoke ,fr5* z well z h] own language4 ,we/]n ladies _h hi!rto be5 little se5 9 ,egyptian h>eems2 ! ,mohamm$an ladies disapprov$ ( ! great] lib]ty enjoy$ by ! newcom] & soon grew jeal\s ( ! great influ5ce ! gov]ness held ov] h] pupil4 ,z ,zohra grew old]1 ,miss ,o',donald became m ( a companion ?an a tea*]1 & %e rema9$ 9 ! vic]oy's s]vice = eight ye>s4 ,abbas _h 9 ! meantime left 8 s*ool & _h a h>eem ( 8 own 9 8 gr&fa!r's palace4 ,he nev] =gave ,zohra = hav+ be5 ! cause ( 8 bani%m5t1 & await$ 8 "t to wreak 8 v5geance4 ,mohamm$ ,ali _h n yet f\nd a husb& = 8 daught]2 he aspir$ to m>ry+ h] to a ,sultan or to a son ( ! ,khalif himself4 ,x !re=e happ5$ t at ! age ( sixte5 ,zohra /ill rema9$ s+le4 ,x 0 at a fe/ival ( ! ,hasaneyn t %e met h] fate4 ,accompani$ by ,miss ,o',donald & two ( ! eunu*s1 %e w5t to visit ! tomb ( ,hoseyn1 = wom5 at all times1 says ! n>rator1 are m attract$ to ! %r9es ( h]oes ?an to ev5 t ( ! ,prophet himself4 ,! mosque 0 s cr[d$ ) p t ! d]vi%es c\ld h>dly f9d room 9 :i* to p]=m ! zikr4 ,! eunu*s manag$ to =ce a way ?r\gh ! cr[d s z to all[ ! pr9cess to approa* ! tomb1 & :ile %e 0 say+ h] pray]s at ! %r9e ( ! h]o1 %e 0 di/urb$ by an upro> :i* arose n f> (f4 ,%\ts ( #8a ,*ri/ian' res\nd$ ?r\gh ! build+4 ,/icks 7 rais$ & knives un%ea!d by an infuriat$ mob1 :o surr\nd$ a tall1 fair-hair$ man :o1 ) 8 back to ! wall1 0 hitt+ out "r & left to keep 8 assailants at bay4 ,8 turban _h fall5 (f1 & 8 fair & un%av5 head %[$ only too cle>ly t he 0 n a ,moslem4 #8,x's my bro!r1' call$ out ! gov]ness1 & appeal$ to ^? ne> h] to g to 8 rescue4 ,zohra1 :o _h n[ rea*$ h] side1 fir/ saw ! blood-/a9$ & h&some face ( ! "y ,iri%man1 & utt]+ a pi]c+ scream1 %e ord]$ ! assailants to desi/4 ,see+ f h] att5dants t %e belong$ to ! vic]egal h\sehold1 !re 0 a slight pause1 & ^? ne> h] made way = h] to rea* ! "o !y _h be5 attack+4 ,%e took ! "y man by ! h& & l$ him1 ?r\gh ! murmur+ cr[d1 into ! /reet4 ,z !y disappe>$1 l\d cries ( #8,allahu6 ,allahu6' res\nd$ ?r\gh\t ! mosque4 ,! pr9cess ?rew h] arms 9 ! air & victori\sly repeat$ ! cry3 #8,allahu6 ,allahu6'--,su* 0 _! fir/ meet+4 ,two "y mamelukes ( ! h\sehold ( ,abbas also happ5$ to h witness$ ! sc5e1 & repeat$ e detail ( x to _! ma/]4 ,! n>rator goes on to say t #8,abbas 0 sil5t1 l a s]p5t :o coils itself 9 read9ess = a spr+4' ,spies 7 s5t =? to f9d out :o ?is man 9 tru? might be4 ,8 "n 0 ,o',donald1 & !re 0 no d\bt t he 0 ! gov]ness's bro!r4 ,he _h fir/ come to ,egypt 9 #ahdj1 :51 aft] ! siege ( ,beirut1 ,napi]'s troops lay outside ,alex&ria4 ,=tune _h !n =sak5 ,mohamm$ ,ali4 ,he c\ld n prev5t 8 enemies f dr9k+ ,nile wat] z mu* z !y pleas$1 & z ! ,arabs say3 #8,he :o has drunk ,nile wat] w soon] or lat] return to ! ,nile4' ,aft] ! ,briti% troops _h quitt$ ,egypt1 ,o',donald resign$ 8 commission & return$ to ,alex&ria1 :]e he _h got a situation z manag] to ! ov]l& r\te f t port to ,suez4 ,8 si/] _h d\btless describ$ 8 pupil to him1 & _h also ent]ta9$ ! pr9cess ) tales ( 8 gallant de$s :ile s]v+ 9 ! army4 ,bus9ess matt]s _h tak5 him to ,cairo at ! "t ( ?is fe/ival1 & 8 love ( adv5ture _h l$ to 8 disguis+ himself & ent]+ a mosque =bidd5 to all save ! believ]s4 ,zohra1 ^: affections _h s f> be5 dis5gag$1 0 all too ready to fall 9 love ) ?is h&some ,iri%man1 ^: praises %e _h s (t5 he>d f ! lips ( 8 si/]4 ,behold+ him = ! fir/ "t bravely repell+ ! attack ( ! infuriat$ mob1 he p]sonifi$ 9 h] imag9ation ! h]oism ( ^? :o fir/ spread ! ,mohamm$an fai?4 ,to use ! words ( ! n>rator3 #8,%e 0 tak5 z 9 a :irlw9d4 ,love consum$ h] z a fire4 ,%e wept ?r\gh ! :ole ( t hot night4 ,%e implor$ "o ( h] si/]s to help h] to meet h] lov]1 & on h] refusal %e bit h] 9 ! *eek4' ,miss ,o',donald 0 al>m$ at ! /ate ( h] pupil & also = ! safety ( h] bro!r4 ,%e wrote & w>n$ him to keep away f ,cairo1 & if possible to get away f ,egypt4 ,un=tunately ! eyes ( ! "y pr9cess confirm$ ! gl[+ descriptions ( h] beauty :i* 8 si/] _h giv51 & ! "y ,iri%man seems to h be5 consum$ ) ! same fire z t ( 8 lady-love4 ,in/ead ( keep+ away f ,cairo1 he contriv$ to get 8 company to give him a po/ 9 t city4 ,on ! ?ird night ( ,bairam1 :5 ri* & poor1 old & "y1 repair to ! cemet]ies to pray at ! graves ( _! belong+s1 ! "y lov]s seiz$ on ?is opportunity to see ea* o!r once m4 ,zohra w5t ) ! wom5 ( h] h>eem to t great wild]ness ( tombs on ! s\?-ea/]n outskirts ( ! city4 ,%e 0 n sl[ 9 recognis+ h] lov] 9 ! app>5tly dev\t ,moslem :o came to pray at ! tomb :]e %e sat4 ,! wail+ ( ! wom5 & ! h[l+ ( ! d]vi%es1 p]=m+ ! zikr1 7 a suffici5t noise to prev5t ! words ! two int]*ang$ f be+ he>d by ,zohra's att5dants1 & be=e !y p>t$ a future means ( meet+ _h be5 arrang$4 #8,i believe1' goes on ! /ory-tell]1 #8t %e lov$ him z ! h]oes ( our fai? 9 ! old5 times lov$ ! beautiful wom5 :om ,allah _h giv5 !m z a =eta/e ( ,p>adise4 ,he also mu/ h lov$ h] z "o b]eft ( 8 s5ses1 = he mu/ h kn[n t he mov$ amid/ nak$ dagg]s or ev5 worse4' ,on ! night previ\s to ! #8,ym ,gebr el-,bahr1' :i* signifies #8! ,break+ ( ! ,riv]' 7& :5 ! dam is cut to enable ! ,nile to repl5i% ! canal :i* us$ to fl[ ?r\gh ,cairo71 great fe/ivities take place4 ,t5ts are erect$ on ea* bank ( ! canal & also on ! edge ( ! isl& ( ,rodah1 :i* faces ! canal's entrance4 ,! riv] is cr[d$ ) boats lit up ) num]\s lant]ns2 fireworks are let (f & guns are fir$2 yet !y fail to dr[n ! noise ( ! musical in/rum5ts & ! et]nal refra9 ( ! s+]s4 ,cairo makes a night ( x4 ,f ! f>!r side ( ! isl& ( ,rodah our pr9cess /epp$ on to h] dahabieh :i* 0 moor$ at ! riv] edge ( ! palace g>d5s4 ,%e 0 accompani$ by ! h>eem1 & %e gave ord]s to let ! b>ge drift d[n ! riv] & to drop ! an*or :]e ! cr[d ( boats 0 n s great4 ,! ladies ( ! h>eem1 includ+ ,miss ,o',donald1 rema9$ on ! deck1 f :5ce !y obta9$ a good view ( ! fireworks & ( ! fe/ivities tak+ place on ! ,nile4 ,zohra retir$ to h] cab91 & might by ! light ( h] c&le h be5 se5 by _m ( ! folks outside1 7 ^! n too mu* occupi$ 9 m]ry-mak+4 ,! c&le 0 mov$ to & fro = a few seconds & !n ext+ui%$4 ,f ! %ad[ ( a clump ( trees ov]hang+ ! edge ( ! riv] an ,engli%-built skiff issu$ into ! ma9 /ream1 !n %ot along ! side ( ! dahabieh & came to a /&/ill4 ,! lov]s _h met once aga94 ,skilfully z ?is _h be5 manag$1 x _h n be5 unobs]v$ by ,miss ,o',donald1 :o1 9 a fev] ( anxiety1 pac$ up & d[n ! deck4 ,! skiff c\ld be se5 by ! lights ( "s boats :i* _h drift$ t f> d[n ! /ream4 ,! gov]ness also suspect$ t ,abbas _h spies among/ ! wom5 ( ! h>eem2 b %e d>$ n brea! a ^w ( w>n+ to h] bro!r bel[ = fe> ( attract+ att5tion4 ,n only _h he be5 se51 b f a neighb\r+ cab9 an assignation _h be5 ov]he>d & 9 due "t report$ to ,abbas4 ,!y 7 to meet ! foll[+ night 9 ! g>d5 ( ! palace at ,rodah4 ,zohra felt sure ( ! sil5ce ( ! eunu*s & also ( h] female att5dants2 %e _h n1 h[ev]1 brib$ "s ( ! crew z highly z ,abbas _h done4 ,o',donald1 ! next night1 fa/5$ 8 boat "u ! trees :i* project ov] ! g>d5 wall & pick$ 8 way along ! edge ( ! riv] to ! /eps at ! ,nile entrance4 ,he f\nd ! gates unlock$1 & walk$ 94 ,in/ead ( 8 lady-love f\r arm$ mamelukes issu$ f ! %rubb]y & ru%$ to attack him4 ,! ,iri%man dropp$ two ) 8 revolv]1 & ! o!r two turn$ & bolt$4 ,abbas 0 await+ ev5ts at ! g>d5 door ( ! h>eem1 :i* he _h lock$ f outside4 ,:5 he he>d ! fir+ & ! h[ls ( 8 mamelukes1 he felt sure t ev5ts _h n turn$ out q z he _h int5d$4 ,mis]able creature z he 01 ,abbas 0 no c[>d1 & 8 ag5ts hav+ fail$ him1 he ru%$ d[n himself to attack ! enemy4 ,a kick on 8 %9 s5t him sprawl+ into a fl[]-b$1 & ,o',donald made (f to 8 skiff4 ,he _h1 h[ev]1 recognis$ :om x 0 t he _h knock$ ov]4 ,b be=e he c\ld take safety 9 flight he felt b\nd to s5d a w>n+ to ,zohra & also to get 8 si/] away4 ,! /ory-tell] goes on to say3 #8,9 su* mom5ts "o's reason+ becomes confus$4 ,allah alone c help "o4 ,b :y %\ld ,allah /ret* =? a help+ h& to ! unbeliev] ^: audaci\s conduct well m]it$ puni%m5t8' ,a ,fr5* ,jewess1 kn[n z ,madame ,rico*ette1 resid$ 9 ,cairo at t "t4 ,%e us$ to visit all ! pr9cipal h>eems to trade 9 ,p>is jewell]y & bonbons4 ,o',donald w5t to see h] e>ly on ! foll[+ morn+1 & ) promises & flatt]y induc$ h] to take a note to ! pr9cess & to br+ back an answ]4 ,he 0 to meet ,zohra 9 ! g>d5 = ! la/ "t1 8 si/] 0 to come away ) him 9 8 boat1 & !y 7 to leave ,cairo at once4 ,!y nev] saw ea* o!r alive aga94 ,he 0 %ot on ! ?re%old ( ! h>eem 9 ,zohra's g>d54 ,abbas _h int]cept$ ! lett]s & _h appris$ ,mohamm$ ,ali ( ! affair4 ,six ,arnauts--good1 dep5dable %ots--7 s5t & 7 plac$ beh9d "s bu%es :i* ! ill-fat$ man w\ld pass on ! way to 8 love4 ,six bullets end$ 8 e>?ly c>e]4 ,abbas 0 a clev] organis]4 ,a mule 0 kept 9 read9ess to c>ry ! body away1 & two ( ! ,arnauts plac$ x on ! bea/ :ile ! o!rs rema9$ ) ! pr9ce4 ,! h>eem door 0 ?r[n op5 &1 z ,zohra approa*$1 ,abbas laugh+ly welcom$ h] to h] lov]4 #8,su* wom51' goes on ! n>rator1 #8d n g (f 9 a fa9t1 z d y\rs 9 ! ,we/4 ,%e flew1 z "o possess$1 to ! corpse ( h] belov$1 & /eep$ h] h&s 9 8 blood4 ,%e _h to be dragg$ away & c>ri$ back to ! h>eem4 ,:5 %e _h recov]$ f h] /upefaction1 %e ord]$ two s]vants to see ,miss ,o',donald (f to ,alex&ria1 :]e fri5ds w\ld see h] safely on bo>d ! fir/ home-go+ /eam]2 ! pr9cess also provid$ h] h&somely ) ! means to get back to h] c\ntry4' ,worse is /ill to foll[4 ,! devil 9 ,abbas _h become m pot5t ?an ev]4 ,he _h ! body ( ! ,iri%man tak5 to ,%ubra & buri$ 9 an outly+ field--upright1 ) ! head bel[ & ! feet /ick+ out ( ! gr\nd4 ,!n spoke ,abbas3 #8,allah1 d ?\ ) him z ?\ wilt2 b ! dogs %all dev\r ! feet :i* kick$ me4' ,! field 0 gu>d$ dur+ a week2 no "o d>$ ent] by day1 & at night ! jackals & dogs did _! "w4 ,!re 9 t field1 to ?is day1 /&s ) head d[nw>ds a footless corpse6 ,! ,o',donalds1 we are told1 _h no influ5tial relations to get ?is matt] inve/igat$1 & ! ,engli% company to :i* ,o',donald belong$ knew m ?an en\gh to keep !m sil5t4 ,! "y ,iri%man _h plac$ 8 life 9 ! balance ) 8 love & _h lo/4 #8,allhu6 ,allhu6 ,allh1 lh1 lh1 lh1' came ! ev]-increas+ cries f ! mosque outside ! ,khan4 ,! d]vi%es 7 work+ !mselves up into a /ate ( fr5zy2 & _h my p]mit to "w 9 ! mosques n made an exception ( ! ,hasaneyn1 x w\ld h tak5 a bold] man ?an myself to h ent]$ !n4 ,i bade my k9dly ho/ good night & f\nd my way back to ! ,european qu>t]4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,( ,,! ,,old ,,& ,,! ,,new ,,cairo1 ,,& ,,( ,a ,,visit ,,to ,,! ,,%eykh ,,amm9 ,,saheime ,x is un=tunate t an arti/1 resid+ 9 ,cairo = ! purpose ( pa9t+ its p & its build+s1 _c live 9 ! city :]e 8 *ief int]e/s lie4 ,= !re are at pres5t two ,cairos3 ! "o an old ori5tal city1 ! o!r a nondescript mod]n ,european t[n1 plac$1 z x 7 by accid5t1 betwe5 ! ,nile & its m v5]able neighb\r4 ,! =eign] :o speaks ( ,cairo alludes to ! great blocks ( build+s & ! palatial hotels :i* =m ?is mod]n t[n1 & he usually t]ms ^? o!r p>ts :i* he has sc>cely se5--! native qu>t]s4 ,! true ,cairo1 & ! "o ( :i* we speak1 lies 9 a r\gh p>allelogram betwe5 ! walls runn+ f ! ,citadel to ! ,bab el-,fut\h at ! ea/]n extremity & ! ,khaleeg1 or ! old canal n[ fill$ 91 on ! we/4 ,! nor!rn & s\!rn extremities end at ! mosques ( ,hakim & ( ,ibn ,tuln respectively4 ,two outly+ bits /ill rema9 nor? & s\? ( ! new qu>t]s1 & are kn[n z ,bulak & ,old ,cairo4 ,!re are rema9s "h & !re ( a yet old] ,cairo1 :i* /ood on ! s\?-we/ ( ! pres5t city4 ,i %\ld de>ly love to live 9 t "p spok5 ( z ! native qu>t]s1 in/ead ( hav+ to live at "s di/ance & among/ surr\nd+s :i* d n l5d !mselves to pictorial treatm5t4 ,i _h ! opportunity to live 9 a beautiful old h\se :i* has be5 c>efully re/or$ "u ! sup]9t5d5ce ( ,h]z ,bey1 & :i* /&s 9 ! v he>t ( ! old t[n4 ,! inconv5i5ce ( h\sekeep+1 ! putt+ 9 ( necess>y furniture1 &1 above all1 ! insanit>y condition ( its imm$iate neighb\rhood1 decid$ me n to avail myself ( ?is opportunity4 ,!re w\ld also h be5 ! fe> ( fire4 ,! beautiful mu%rbiyeh "w :i* encloses all ! w9d[s1 & is z dry z t\*wood1 might at any mom5t be set on fire ?r\gh ! action ( a c>eless s]vant4 ,! h\se is a p]fect specim5 ( an old ,cair5e dwell+1 & x has be5 wisely repair$ & is kept 9 ord] at ! exp5se ( ! ,wakfs adm9i/ration4 ,possibly re/rictions z to ! light+ ( fires w\ld h be5 impos$ on me1 :i* w\ld h necessitat$ a j\rney to ! ,european qu>t]s :5ev] ,i wi%$ = a hot meal4 ,no1 "o _c live "h surr\nd$ ) :at "o loves to pa9t2 "o may rema9 a lifetime 9 ,cairo & n be ( x4 ,! joy ( hav+ bright sunny wea!r 9 midw9t] is v great1 & x is also a pleasure to meet fri5ds at ! club or hotels1 & = ^? incl9$ t way balls & p>ties c be att5d$ on mo/ ev5+s dur+ ! season4 ,p]sonally ,i w\ld =ego mo/ ( ^! ?+s to live m 9 t\* ) ! life ( ! old city4 ,z an illu/ration ( h[ little ! inhabitants ( ! ,european qu>t]s are conc]n$ ) :at takes place 9 ,cairo prop]1 ,i w give ! foll[+3-- ,:ile ,i 0 pa9t+ 9 ! ,suk es-,selah1 or ! gun-mak]s' baza>1 an old h\se fell 9 n _m paces f :]e ,i 0 sitt+4 ,z ! h\se 0 inhabit$1 will+ h&s 7 soon on ! spot to assi/ 9 excavat+ ^? :o might be buri$ "u ! ru9s4 ,help 0 also soon available f (ficial qu>t]s1 & dur+ ! c\rse ( ! day five dead bodies 7 une>!d4 ,i did n expect ?is to be giv5 z important a space 9 ! newspap]s--edit$ & circulat+ 9 ! mod]n qu>t]s--z an acc\nt ( ! la/ ball at ,%ephe>d's w\ld h receiv$2 b ,i ?\ght a l9e describ+ an ev5t :i* co/ ! lives ( five p might h appe>$ among/ ! small] items ( news4 ,!re 0 no m5tion ( x 9 any ( !m4 ,:5 ,i rem>k$ on ?is to "s ,european resid5ts1 ,i 0 casually told t a h\se fell+ d[n 0 ( con/ant occurr5ce1 & a lady rem>k$ on he>+ ( ! five ,arabs :o _h be5 kill$1 #8,il en re/e encore bi5 assez4' ,f ! little int]e/ %[n1 "o might h suppos$ t ?is ev5t _h tak5 place some:]e 9 ,*9a1 in/ead ( )9 a c\ple ( miles f ! hotel we 7 94 ,i witness$ ! fun]al procession ( a not$ ,%eykh ( ,islam ?is la/ w9t]4 ,! cortge 0 m ?an a mile 9 l5g?1 & ?\s&s ( p cr[d$ ! /reets to pay _! la/ respects to s em95t a coreligioni/4 ,a ro> ( voices1 repeat+ ! pr(ession ( ! ,mohamm$an fai?1 rose f e qu>t] ( ! ,arab city4 ,i look$ = "s in=mation 9 ! ,cairo pap]s1 b n a m5tion ( x did ,i f9d4 ,! ,arabic pap]s 7 d\btless full ( ! ev5t2 b z few ,europeans1 ?\gh !y may speak ! colloquial language flu5tly1 c read ! writt5 ,arabic1 ! news ( ! old t[n r>ely spreads to ! new4 ,! old] resid5ts are seldom se5 9 ! old p>ts ( ! city1 & t is easy to und]/&1 = famili>ity ) ?+s ea/]n bre$s an indiff]5ce ) ! majority1 ev5 if x does n desc5d to contempt4 ,! surprise is t s few are met !re ( ! ?\s&s ( p :o flock to ,egypt = a %ort season4 ,a drive d[n ! ,m\sky--"o ( ,cairo's lea/ int]e/+ /reets--a visit to ! ,khan ,khalil1 !n a walk r\nd ?ree or f\r mosques & a view f ! citadel4 ,aft] ?is a feel+ ( satisfaction t ! #8native qu>t]s' h be5 ?or\ghly done4 ,! fe> ( smells seems to haunt !m1 = ! h&s n c>ry+ a kodak or fly-:isp (t5 hold a h&k]*ief ne> _! noses4 ,bad smells are to be f\nd = ^? :o seek !m1 ?\gh n z _m z 9 mo/ old ,european t[ns4 ,^! might be remov$ to advantage4 ,b h[ mu* w\ld ,cairo n lose ( its *>m if1 depriv$ ( ! s5se ( smell1 "o w&]$ ?r\gh its baza>s or loit]$ ab\t its m>ket-places8 ,i _c ?9k ( ! c(fee-/alls )\t _! aroma ( moka & ( latakiyeh4 ,! spice baza> recalls ! w>m l& breezes f "s tropic isle4 ,w\ld ! col\r ( ! fruit-/alls *>m ! eye equally1 7 ! sc5t gone f _! piles ( russet & gold8 ,ev5 ! smell ( tan seems to enhance ! sight ( ! brilliantly hu$ sk9s 9 ! lea!r-work]s' baza>4 ,?\gh ea* s5se may occasionally be %ock$1 ea* plays its "p 9 ! enjoym5t ( all ?+s4 ,to any "o ke5ly int]e/$ 9 ?is m$ival city1 & :o has /udi$ its build+s1 ! eye is unhappily m (t5 n[ %ock$ ?an ! nose4 ,ugl9esses :i* are h>dly noticeable 9 ! ,european qu>t]s are sl[ly invad+ ! old p>ts ( ! city4 ,i h se5 _m a beautiful lattic$ w9d[ replac$ by ready-made import$ sa%es1 or :]e ! seclusion ( ! h>eem is necess>y1 an ugly fretwork 9 lieu ( ! turn$ mu%rbiyeh :i* gave s mu* "* to ! ,cair5e dwell+4 ,/reets =m]ly cov]$ 9 ) raft]s & matt+ are n[ expos$ to ! bak+ sun1 s z to all[ m light on ! *eap ,european goods beh9d ! plate-glass w9d[s4 ,! (ficial m9d is obsess$ ) ! idea t (ficial "w ne$s tr\s]s1 & all aspirants to (ficial billets don ^! ugly g>m5ts & ab&on ! graceful kuftn & ! fl[+ gibbeh4 ,! same ?+ has occurr$ 9 ! gov]nm5t s*ools4 ,tr\s]$ policem5 tread _! beat by day1 :ile ! night wat* is all[$ to g its r\nds 9 ! native co/ume2 presumably because x is less se54 ,! metal fanus :i* sw+ be=e ! mosque entrances are be+ replac$ by ugly petroleum lamps4 ,! wat]-c>ri] w disappe> z ea* /&-pipe is erect$2 ?is d\btless has its hygi5ic advantages4 ,b _h ! well-to-d /ill ! same pride 9 _! city z _h _! =efa!rs1 ! wat] w\ld h be5 conduct$ to ! beautiful f\nta9s :i* are n[ all[$ to fall into decay4 ,=tunately ,cairo is l>ge1 & "s ye>s may yet elapse be=e ugl9ess w h crept into its inn]mo/ recesses4 ,r\nd & ab\t ! ,tumbakiyeh--:]e ! co>se ,p]sian tobacco is retail$ to ! smok]s ( ! nrgeeleh & ! %ee%eh--! old-_w look seems /ill /]n en\gh to fright5 (f any %oddy ,european accessories4 ,massive doors1 nail-/udd$ & heavily h+$1 close 9 ! ,weklehs :]e ! tumbak is /or$4 ,m or less dilapidat$ gateways lead into spaci\s ,khans :]e =m]ly c>avans f ,syria & ,arabia unload$ _! m]*&ise4 ,! conv5t mosque ( ,beyb>s1 ! ,ta/]1 dom9ates ?is di/rict4 ,f its pepp]-box m9>et "o c look d[n on ext5sive w>eh\ses n[ p>tition$ into t5em5ts ( ! v poor2 h\ses ( er/:ile m]*ant pr9ces are n[ fall+ into decay1 & _! g>d5s us$ z rope-walks or blea*+-gr\nds4 ,! mu$d9's call to pray] s\nds l ! fun]al dirge ( ! dep>t$ glories ( ! ,tumbakiyeh4 ,! ma9 /reet1 kn[n z ! ,gamalieh1 has all ! dignity ( age2 x is too poor a di/rict1 & too f> f ! pres5t bus9ess c5tres1 to be rejuv5at$ ) ! lack ( ta/e :i* has ru9$ ! ,m\sky4 ,d[n a n>r[ lane lead+ out ( ! ,gamalieh1 a f9e old doorway & "s well-pres]v$ oriel w9d[s gave e promise t ?is 0 ! back ( a f9e old ,cair5e h\se1 /ill inhabit$ by its own]1 & n all[$ to fall into ! ru9\s /ate ( mo/ ( its neighb\rs4 ,my man ,mohamm$ 0 ) me :5 ,i made ! discov]y4 ,i ask$ him to inquire to :om x belong$1 & to try to f9d out if ! int]ior 0 at all 9 keep+ ) :at we saw f ! lane4 ,illu/ration3 ,,suk ,,es-,,selah1 ,,cairo ,mohamm$ is a man ( great res\rce4 ,aft] consid]+ 8 mode ( proc$ure = a mom5t1 he pu%$ op5 ! door1 :i* /ood aj>1 & we c\ld see ! b[ab1 or doorkeep]1 asleep on ! /one seat at ! angle ( ! passage4 ,mohamm$ /epp$ lightly along ?is passage1 evid5tly 9 hopes ( gett+ r\nd ! angle & obta9+ a peep into ! c\rty>d1 )\t awak+ ! sleep]4 ,n succe$+ 9 ?is1 & be+ ask$ :at he want$1 he />t$ inquiries aft] an imag9>y relative :o surely 0 once a s]vant 9 ?is h\sehold4 #8,is ?is n1 !n1 ! h\se ( s-&-s8' giv+ ! "n ( an imag9>y own]4 #8,!n :o does live "h8' ,! real "n ( ! own] 0 !n giv5 by ! doorkeep]4 ,by a few m lead+ que/ions1 x 0 f\nd out t ! own] 0 9 8 c\ntry place1 & w\ld n return till ! cool] wea!r set 94 ,mohamm$ _h 9 ! mean:ile got 8 peep into ! c\rt1 & _h se5 q en\gh to feel satisfi$ t "h 0 :at ,i want$4 ,z ! h>eem 0 9 ! c\ntry1 !re w\ld be no objection to ! ghawaga also hav+ a peep into ! c\rt1 especially z a bak%ee% might foll[ on ! peep4 ,i 0 !n all[$ 91 & "h 0 a c\rt simil> 9 plan to _m ru9\s ones ,i _h se52 b 9 a p]fect /ate ( pres]vation1 & sugge/+ _m beautiful ?+s 9 ! h\se :i* ov]look$ x4 ,i _h nev] pa9t$ 9 ! int]ior ( a f9e ,cair5e h\se1 /ill kept up z 9 ! days be=e ,ismael ,pa%a utt]$ 8 boa/--#8,l',egypte fait p>tie de l',europe4' ,i made inquiries among/ ,egyptian z well z ,european fri5ds reg>d+ ! own]1 & :e!r x w\ld be possible to get an introduction to him4 ,i 0 told t he 0 "o ( ! old s*ool1 liv$ z 8 =ebe>s _h done1 & did n frequ5t ! mod]n qu>t]s4 ,! m inaccessible ?is g5tleman seem$ to be1 ! m ,i long$ = an entre into 8 h\se4 ,ye>s w5t by1 & ?is c\rt rema9$ 9 my memory z a beautiful picture :i* ,lewis only c\ld h adequately pa9t$4 ,t[>ds ! latt] "p ( my la/ season 9 ,cairo1 ,i m5tion$ to my fri5d1 ,mr4 ,b[d5 ,smi?1 h[ difficult x 0 to obta9 p]mission to pa9t 9 ! few1 yet rema9+1 g5u9e old ,cair5e h\ses4 ,8 "w1 connect$ ) ! m9i/ry ( f9ance1 _h br\ght him 9 contact ) _m ( ! upp] class ,egyptians1 & he nam$ sev]al h\ses he c\ld take me to see4 #8,h y se5 ! h\se ( ! ,%eykh ,saheime ne> ! ,gamalieh8' he ask$1 & describ$ ! v place :i* ye>s s9ce _h made s la/+ an impression on me4 ,we w5t !re ! v next day1 & 7 =tunate 9 f9d+ ! ,%eykh at home4 ,we 7 receiv$ 9 ! takhtabo%1 a spaci\s recess op5+ on to ! c\rt1 & "u ! pr9cipal gue/-*amb]1 :i* latt] is support$ by a h&some granite column4 ,a r[ ( c>v$ wood5 b5*es l9e ! ?ree walls ( ! recess1 & re/ on a pav$ floor a few in*es high] ?an ! op5 c\rt4 ,cu%ions 7 plac$ = our accommodation1 & we 7 c\rte\sly ask$ to sit d[n4 ,"h we took our c(fee & conv]s$ ) our ho/4 ,i told him h[ glad ,i 0 to meet "o :o /ill _h a pride 9 ! beautiful ?+s 8 c\ntry _h produc$1 & :o pref]r$ keep+ up ! home ( 8 ance/ors to liv+ l',europenne 9 ! mod]n qu>t]s4 ,he c\ld n =etell :at 8 sons might d2 b z f> z he 0 conc]n$1 he w\ld keep to ! dress ( 8 =ebe>s & end 8 days 9 ! dwell+-places :i* !y _h built4 #8,%\ld ,i bett] myself1' he ask$1 #8if ,i left ?is h\se = "o at ,kasrel-,a9e1 or 9 ! ,ismaelieh qu>t]8' ,a vision ( ! pret5ti\s villas #8en /yle ,arabe1' #8en /yle ,egypti51' or1 worse yet1 ! ,levant9e's conception ( #8l'art n\veau1' rose up be=e me1 & by contra/ made m beautiful ! c\rt we ov]look$4 ,! g5tle coo+ ( ! doves1 & ! s\nd ( runn+ wat] amid/ ! fl[]+ %rubs1 w\ld nev] "h ill-tune ) ! hoot+ ( a motor4 ,! roses1 :i* g>l&$ ! trellis$ w9d[s1 seem$ m beautiful ?an ^? :i* try to hide ! ca/-iron balconies ( mod]n ,cairo4 ,no s\nd f ! outside _w p5etrat$ "h till ! solemn call to pray] f ,beyb>'s mosque recall$ ! h\r ( day4 ,we made a move1 ?9k+ t our ho/ might wi% to att5d ! ,asr4 ,to our delight1 h[ev]1 he ask$ if we w\ld c>e to g ov] ! h\se ) him4 ,no?+ suit+ u bett]1 he conduct$ u across ! c\rt to a door & passage lead+ to ! m&>ah or gue/-room4 ,! ant]oom we pass$ ?r\gh sugge/$ a good subject1 & ,i ?rew out "s h9ts t ,i %\ld l to d a sket* ( x4 ,:e!r our ho/ und]/ood :at ,i 0 driv+ at or purposely pass$ on to ano!r subject1 ,i c\ld n q make out2 b a w9k f my fri5d t he w\ld h ano!r try lat] on reassur$ me4 ,! room 0 sp>sely furni%$1 z is g5]ally ! case 9 ori5tal h\ses4 ,high wood5 b5*es l9$ ! walls1 & if we add to ^! a few cu%ions1 "s rugs1 & "o or two hang+ lamps1 we %all h describ$ ab\t all ?is ant]oom conta9$4 ,! light trickl+ ?r\gh ! lattic$ w9d[s %[$ up ! design ( ! mu%rbiyeh1 & x is n appreciable h[ decorative ^! turn$ wood5 grat+s are until !y are se5 f ! inside4 ,! wall surfaces 7 q pla91 & gave a value to ! ornam5tation surr\nd+ ! l9tels ( ! ?ree doors :i* op5$ into ! room4 ,on ea* l9tel 0 a ,koranic text 9 rais$ lett]+ & reliev$ on a blue gr\nd4 ,! simplicity ( ! ant]oom s]v$ to enhance ! ri* decoration ( ! gue/-room itself4 ,! durkh1 :i* is t "p ( ! floor ne>e/ to ! entrance1 _h a beautiful tesselat$ pavem5t4 ,9 ! c5tre /ood a d\ble-bas9$ m>ble f\nta9 s5d+ up sev]al jets ( wat]1 :i* 7 caught 9 a %all[ well ar\nd its base4 ,x is 9 ! durkh t ! gue/ drops 8 slipp]s be=e asc5d+ to ! liwn1 :i* is rais$ a few in*es above ! pavem5t & occupies ab\t "o-?ird ( ! ap>tm5t4 ,h&somely cov]$ mattresses ) heavy cu%ions l9e ! ?ree enclos+ walls & =m ! diwaan or divan1 z we call x4 ,9 ?is in/ance ! ceil+ ( ! liwn 0 sev]al feet l[] ?an ! ro( ( ! durkh1 & ) its reta9+ ar* bore mu* ! same relation to ! re/ ( ! ap>tm5t z does t ( ! *ancel to a "o-aisl$ *ur*4 ,! intricate patt]n ( ! mu%rbiyeh occupi$ ! place ( an ea/ w9d[4 ,cupbo>ds ) m9ute panels ( v>y+ arabesque designs1 & %elves ) b[ls & di%es ( ,rhodian or ,egyptian w>e1 furni%$ ! walls above ! divan4 ,! geometrical patt]ns on ! ceil+ & ! vivid col\rs ) :i* !y 7 def9$ w\ld h be5 di/urb+ to ! eye1 7 x n = ! subdu$ light1 9 :i* ! decoration 0 p>tially lo/4 ,ev]y?+ 0 h>moni\s1 all seem$ exactly "r4 ,i w\ld fa9 h l+]$ on ! divan & he>d our ho/ relate ( de$s :i* may h be5 done )9 ^! walls4 ,b !re 0 m to see4 ,leav+ ?is beautiful gue/-*amb] & cross+ ! ant]oom1 we 7 tak5 up a w9d+ /aircase to ! hammm4 ,our ,turki% ba?s are modell$ on a simil> plan1 b z ?is "o 0 only = private use1 x 0 on a small] scale ?an a public "o1 & m>ble floors & seats "h took ! place ( m ord9>y mat]ials4 ,f !nce we 7 tak5 ?r\gh a corridor & into ano!r gue/-*amb]4 ,a slight smile on ! face ( our ho/ seem$ to express a "q z to :at we %\ld say ab\t ?is room1 hav+ exhau/$ our t]ms ( admiration on ! "o bel[4 ,"h 0 ! place :]e he wi%$ u to l+] & sip our c(fee until ! mu$d9 once m call$ to pray] at ! close ( ! day4 ,"s ( ! features ( ! m&>ah--z ! gue/-room bel[ is call$--7 "h3 ! two levels ( ! floor def9+ ! limits ( ! durkh & t ( ! liwn2 ! tesselat$ pavem5t & m>ble f\nta9 9 ! "o & ! mattress$ & cu%ion$ divan ( ! o!r2 ! mu%rbiyeh also split up ! light 9 a patt]n sugge/+ ! int]lac+ ( /r+s ( beads1 & ! panell+ ( ! doors & ceil+ 7 z ri* 9 arabesque design z t :i* we _h se5 bel[4 ,! "o ap>tm5t 0 z truly ,egyptian z ! o!r1 yet x left a di/9ctly diff]5t impression4 ,! m subdu$ light ( ! m&>ah1 z well z ! *ancel-l appe>ance ( ! liwn1 _h an impressiv5ess :i* 0 n "h2 b x might easily h appe>$ gloomy _h we visit$ ?is light] & m highly col\r$ room fir/4 ,we 7 n[ 9 :at 0 probably ! ,k1 or pr9cipal ap>tm5t ( ! h>eem ( =m] days4 ,i h le>nt s9ce t ! ,%eykh's family is a small "o1 s ! rooms ov]look+ ! g>d5 & 9 a w+ ( ! h\se--:i* we 7 ( c\rse n %[n--w\ld be amply suffici5t = ! wom5-folk ( 8 h\sehold4 ,! h>eem1 or h>em1 z x is (t5 miscall$ 9 ,engl&1 is also (t5 misund]/ood4 ,its true mean+ is ! #8prohibit$1' t is #8sacr$' to ! ma/] ( ! h\se4 ,x is t portion ( ! h\se :i* is conf9$ to ! wom5 & *ildr51 & is n necess>ily a k9d ( luxuri\s prison = a numb] ( wives1 :i* _m unacqua9t$ ) ! ,ea/ (t5 suppose4 ,! #8selamlik' is t "p ( ! h\se us$ by ! male portion ( ! h\sehold4 ,z ! great majority ( ,egyptians h only "o wife at a "t1 ! h>eem g5]ally occupies less ( ! h\se ?an ! #8selamlik4' ,! t]m #8el h>eem' also applies to wom5 collectively4 ,x w\ld n h be5 prop] to ask if ! beautiful ap>tm5t we 7 9 _h ev] be5 us$ z ! ,k1 = "o mu/ be on v intimate t]ms ) a ,moslem be=e allud+ 9 any way to :at conc]ns 8 wom5-folk4 ,a fem99e t\* ( lightness abs5t 9 ! selamlik conv9c$ me t we 7 be+ ent]ta9$ 9 :at at "o "t =m$ a "p ( ! h>eem4 ,! *ief attraction 0 ! gr& display ( beautiful old tiles :i* cov]$ ! walls4 ,! design %[$ a ,p]sian influ5ce1 & 0 n conf9$ to ! geometrical patt]ns ( ! m or?odox ,s>ac5ic "w1 & pretty z ?is is1 x is ! col\r :i* gives x its great *>m4 ,blues t5d+ to gre5 play$ ) blues ( a violet %ade1 t\*es ( puce & em]ald gre5 jo9$ 9 ! revelry ( col\r4 ,no ornam5ts 7 hung or bracket$ on ^! wall spaces1 = 7 !y n ornam5t suffici5t 9 !mselves8 ,! mattresses & cu%ions ( ! divan _h ri*] cov]+s1 7 m elegant 9 patt]n1 & less sombre 9 hue ?an ^? ( ! divan we _h fir/ se54 ,:at a /udio ?is w\ld h made = any "o desir\s to pa9t ea/]n subjects6 ,bett] t x rema9 z x is--a dignifi$ sett+ to a wor?y ,egyptian g5tleman4 ,z ! sun got m r\nd to ! we/1 ! %ad[ ( ! mu%rbiyeh patt]n$ ! floor1 & gem-l t\*es ( light crept sl[ly up ! wall fac+ ! great w9d[4 ,above ! turn$ wood5 grat+1 :i* %[$ its design s beautifully 9 ! %ad[ x ca/1 a second w9d[ admitt$ ! light ?r\gh num]\s pieces ( col\r$ glass set 9 deep m\ld+s ( old pla/] "w4 ,mr4 ,b[d5 ,smi? *att$ ) ! ,%eykh ab\t mutual acqua9tances & ( affairs p]ta9+ to ! pres5t day2 b :e!r x 0 my insuffici5t k ( ,arabic or :e!r my surr\nd+s _h c>ri$ my ?\ghts else:]e1 ,i lo/ ! ?read ( _! conv]sation4 ,:5 appeal$ to ab\t "s po9t1 ,i _h1 be=e ,i c\ld answ]1 to dis5tangle my ?\ghts f #8,! /ory ( ! ,humpback' :i* ,i _h pictur$ ,%ahrazad rehe>s+ to h] si/] 9 anticipation ( "o ( ! ?\s& & "o nights4 ,! two daught]s ( ! ,vizir _h h>dly settl$ ! po9t z to ! work+ ( ?is /ory into ! "o ( #8,noor ed-,de5 & ,enees el ,jelees1' :5 ! deep wail #8,allhu ,akb>6' f ,beyb>'s m9>et ann\nc$ ! maghrib4 ,! patt]n$ %ad[ _h left ! floor1 & ! t\*es ( light f ! /a9$ glass1 int5sifi$ 9 col\r by ! decl9+ sun1 crept f wall to ceil+ z we rose to dep>t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,entrance ,,to ,,! ,,h>eem ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,my ,,second ,,visit ,,to ,,! ,,%eykh ,,& ,,my ,,exp]i5ces ,,) ,,an ,,unfai?ful ,,s]vant ,my fri5d expla9$ to ! ,%eykh my desire to set up an easel 9 "s p>ts ( 8 h\se4 ,a suspici\s fe> add$ to 8 wi% to please gave me an uncom=table feel+ ( hav+ presum$ on ! good man's hospitality4 ,x took "s "t to cle> 8 m9d ( any prejudicial effects :i* might ensue on my work+ "h4 ,picture pa9t+ is s =eign to ! ,moslem's education1 & /rictly speak+ is a brea* ( ,koranic law1 t a slight hesitation 9 giv+ me p]mission is und]/&able4 ,! lik5ess ( no?+1 :i* is 9 heav5 above or 9 ! e>? b5ea?1 hung on 8 walls to assi/ u 9 expla9+ ! nature ( my "w2 & t veil :i* is ev] 9 a degree betwe5 ! we/]n & ! ori5tal m9d seem$ ?ick5$ = a :ile4 ,! wi% to please1 h[ev]1 pr$om9at$ ov] ! suspici\s fe>s1 & he bade u f>ewell ) ! assurance t 8 h\se 0 at my disposal4 ,x 0 days be=e ,i return$1 z ,i wi%$ to complete a /reet sc5e ,i 0 !n engag$ on4 ,i _h lo/ my guide1 philosoph]1 & fri5d1 ,mohamm$1 :om ,i did n wi% to d out ( a lucrative job up ! ,nile1 & ,i _h 9 8 /ead "o ) a plausible ext]ior1 b possess+ none ( ! virtues & all ! vices :i* g to make up a dragoman4 ,to "w 9 ! /reets & baza>s 9 ,cairo )\t a man to keep (f ! small boys is almo/ an impossibility1 & mu* ( "o's com=t dep5ds on ! tact & will+ness ( ! man "o employs4 ,mansoor 7to give him an alias7 spoke & read ,engli% rem>kably well1 & hav+ le>nt l a p>rot "s s5t5ces conc]n+ ! ,pyramids & "s ( ! *ief monum5ts ( ,cairo1 he 0 9 hopes ( soon obta9+ a dragoman's lic5ce4 ,)\t ?is lic5ce1 happily1 none may guide ! t\ri/1 & z an exam9ation ( sorts is n[ requir$1 & also a "* f "s previ\s employ] z to ! good behavi\r ( ! applicant1 ! t\ri/ may run less risk 9 future ( be+ hopelessly sw9dl$ ?an he did 9 e>li] days4 ,b act+ m]ely z my s]vant1 su* lic5ce 0 n a necessity4 ,he _h an irritat+ way ( giv+ me uncall$-= in=mation4 ,! p>rot-l s5t5ces he _h /or$ 9 8 memory 7 repeat$ ea* "t we pass$ a monum5t ! t\ri/ is tak5 to see4 ,^! might h be5 amus+ _h ,i n he>d !m ad nauseam be=e4 ,i did n *eck him at fir/1 & ,i ev5 tri$ to supplem5t "s facts abs5t f ! little book :i* he _h le>nt by he>t4 ,8 usual answ]1 #8,?is is all ! dragomans say1' disc\rag$ me f try+ to tea* him any?+4 ,! ,khan ,khalil 0 ! s*ool 9 :i* ! true tricks ( 8 trade 7 to be /udi$4 ,:ile ,i work$ !re1 ,mansoor w\ld crawl ab\t li/5+ to ! prices paid = ! v>i\s pur*ases1 & probably pass$ sleepless nights till he _h f\nd out ab\t ! commission ! guides _h obta9$ = br++ a cu/om]4 ,8 sm>t clo!s & 8 flu5t ,engli% mu/ h impos$ on _m a /all-hold] t he 0 ei!r a lic5s$ dragoman or 0 %ortly to become "o4 ,c(fee & cig>ettes 7 press$ on him at :atev] ma/aba he deign$ to sit4 ,:ile ,i work$ 9 a mosque n f> f ?is baza> he w\ld sit at ! w9d[ & wat* = t\ri/s4 ,sev]al times he _h an uncle to bury4 ,he w\ld expla9 t !re 0 only j "t = him to pay 8 la/ respects to 8 deceas$ relative1 & if ,i w\ld let him g he w\ld be sure to be back by ! "t ,i 0 prep>$ to leave4 ,i w\ld tell him to g & bury 8 relative1 & _h he ask$ to bury himself1 ,i 0 prep>$ by ?is "t to give him my full p]mission4 ,! la/ "t he left me on 8 sorr[ful err&1 ,i m\nt$ on to ! w9d[-sill :]e he 0 wont to wat* = ! prey z yet )held f him4 ,i saw a p>ty ( t\ri/s j disappe>+ into an alley lead+ into ! ,khan ,khalil1 :ile ,mansoor 0 que/ion+ ! driv] ( "o ( ! cabs :i* !y _h left1 & !n he also 0 lo/ 9 ! %ad[ ( ! selfsame alley4 ,he return$ "s "t aft] ,i 0 ready to />t = my hotel1 & ,i told him t z he _h tak5 s long 9 bury+ 8 uncle1 he %\ld att5d no m fun]als :ile he 0 9 my s]vice4 ,to be told a lie is seldom pleasant2 b a v /upid lie reflects on ! intellig5ce ( ! he>]1 & ?is may p>tly h acc\nt$ = my gr[+ dislike ( ?is man4 ,i _h un=tunately n f\nd ano!r to take 8 place :5 ,i w5t to ! h\se ( ! ,%eykh ,saheime to />t a draw+4 ,i 0 mo/ c\rte\sly receiv$1 & 0 told to ask = any?+ :i* ,i might require4 ,i began a draw+ f ! ant]oom ( ! m&>a look+ into ! c\rt & ?r\gh ! passage1 :i* also l$ to ! /airs ( ! =m] h>eem4 ,i did n wi% to beg9 a too elaborate subject till ,i felt m sure t repeat$ visits 7 n inconv5i5t to my ho/4 ,mansoor jo9$ ! doorkeep] & ! eunu* on _! b5* at ! front entrance1 :]e he d\btless enhanc$ 8 own importance by ly+ ab\t my ri*es & relation%ip to ! v>i\s high ,engli% (ficials 9 ,cairo4 ,! inconv5i5ce ( su* lies is t a tip proportionate to su* imag9$ weal? is look$ =w>d to4 ,he came pres5tly z ! be>] ( a message f ! ,%eykh1 t _h ! latt] kn[n ,i 0 com+ t day1 he w\ld h prep>$ a d9n] = me2 b t he hop$ ,i w\ld return on ! foll[+ morn+ & w\ld hon\r him ) my pres5ce at ! midday meal4 ,i 0 grateful = 8 k9d int5tions1 & yet sorry t ,i might be putt+ him to "s tr\ble & inconv5i5ce4 ,i wi%$ to come "h (t51 & w\ld only feel com=table ab\t do+ s if ,i felt sure t ,i 0 n di/urb+ him4 ,n feel+ sure z to my int5tions1 he came himself1 & 0 n satisfi$ till ,i _h promis$ to d9e ) him ! next day4 ,mansoor 0 lat] cross-que/ion$ z to :e!r ,i lik$ su* & su* a di%4 ,did ,i always eat ) a knife & =k8 ,he suppos$ ,i sat on a *air :ile ,i f$1 & c\ld ,*ri/ians get ?r\gh a meal )\t /rong dr9k8 ,su* que/ions 7 duly repeat$ to me1 s ,i s5t my man back to ! ,%eykh ) a message t ! m ! d9n] 0 z he 0 accu/om$ to h x1 ! m ,i %\ld appreciate 8 hospitality4 ,i 0 !re e>ly on ! foll[+ morn+1 z ,i wi%$ to complete my draw+ be=e ! meal took place4 ,i _h a good long pa9t ) no o!r company b a weasel1 :i* is (t5 se5 9 ,egyptian h\ses to keep (f ! mice & rats1 or :atev] "o *ooses to call t creature :i* is too l>ge = ! =m] & too small = ! latt]4 ,i "k ( b "o "n = ei!r ( ^! pe/s1 & firn does duty = bo?4 ,cats are also h\sehold pets1 b are less adaptable = spy+ out ! secret places :]e ! firn are wont to ne/ _! "y4 ,a message came f ! ,%eykh to "k if ,i want$ my d9n] at twelve or at "o o'clock4 ,i s5t ,mansoor to f9d out :at 8 usual h\r 01 & be+ told t x 0 j aft] ! midday pray]1 ,i s5t ^w t no o!r "t w\ld suit me bett]4 ,ab\t half-pa/ twelve ! ,%eykh appe>$1 foll[$ by a g5tleman 9 ,european clo!s & a #8t>b\*4' ,i 0 introduc$1 & in=m$ t ?is 0 a c\s9 & a judge ( a native tribunal4 ,i 0 reliev$ to f9d t ! judge spoke ,fr5* flu5tly1 = my ,arabic is liable to fail me if put to too sev]e a te/4 ,!y seem$ int]e/$ 9 my draw+1 & held x close to _! eyes to enable !m to deciph] ! text engrav$ on ! l9tel ( ! door4 ,x is a nev]-fail+ surprise to ,ea/]ns if !y c read any lett]+ :i* "o may h introduc$ 9 a draw+4 #8,! ghawaga says he c't write ,arabic2 !n h[ is x t we c read :at he has "h writt58' ,my explanation t ,i _h m]ely copi$ ! /rokes & dots :i* ,i saw be=e my nose seldom satisfi$ ^! inquiries1 & g5]ally left a suspicion ( some?+ uncanny4 ,ne$less to say "h t ! lady n[ %[n 9 ! illu/ration 0 non-exi/5t at t "t1 & n be+ ( ! beau sexe myself1 ! privilege ( see+ "o at any "t 9 ?is h\se 0 n to be expect$4 ,!re are /ill "s ?+s left :i* ! pa9t] may d & :i* are /ill beyond ! p[] ( ! cam]a4 ,n[1 a ^w ( w>n+ to any "o :o may be ab\t to d9e = ! fir/ "t ) "o ( ! ,ne> ,ea/4 ,to put x crudely3 ,come ) an empty /oma* & eat z sp>+ly ( ! fir/ di%es z y c4 ,!y may be v good2 b our p[]s ( absorption may fail u1 & we might h to pass sev]al subsequ5t c\rses unt\*$1 :i* might be tak5 z a slight to ! quality ( ! f>e4 ,i 0 prep>$ = ?is1 & _h made a v light breakfa/4 ,! grace1 repeat$ 9 a l[ voice by ! ma/]1 is always impressive3 #8,bi-smi-llhi-r-ramani-r-raeem' 7,9 ! "n ( ,god1 ! ,compassionate1 ! ,m]ciful71 & ! smell ( ! sav\ry di% :i* _h be5 plac$ be=e u made ! #8,tafaddal' or invitation to sit d[n d\bly welcome4 ,*airs _h be5 borr[$1 z a concession d\btless to ! requirem5ts ( ! ,f]angi1 & a plate1 knife1 & =k 7 also plac$ be=e me4 ,i dismiss$ ! latt] articles z only be+ necess>y to cut up ! t\gh] food ( ,europeans1 & z q useless ) ! t5d]] di%es ( ! ,musleme54 ,! ,%eykh seem$ pleas$ at ?is &1 z is ! cu/om1 fir/ ta/$ ( ! di%4 ,:5 ,i tore a piece (f ! ?9 flat loaf plac$ be=e me &1 d\bl+ x1 ,i hook$ a piece ( meat out ( ! di%1 he exclaim$ t ,i _h eat5 9 ,arab fa%ion be=e4 ,! judge agre$ ) me t ) ,arab di%es he did n see :]e a knife & =k came 94 ,n p>tak+ s freely ( ! ya*nee z to satisfy our ho/1 he took a delicate morsel out ( ! /ew & h&$ x to me4 ,! mann] ( eat+ ) ! f+]s seems /range at fir/2 b x is a/oni%+ h[ soon "o gets accu/om$ to x1 & also h[ mu* m delicate x seems ?an :5 describ$ to ^? :o may nev] h witness$ x4 ,! "r h& %\ld always be us$ if possible1 & %\ld a f[l be s]v$1 x is polite to cat* hold ( "o leg1 s z to enable ! ma/] to dismemb] ! bird )\t hav+ to use 8 left h&4 ,x may take z long to le>n ! etiquette p]ta9+ to ! ,arab mode ( eat+ z = an ,arab to acquire all ! niceties obs]v$ at an ,engli% table4 ,%\ld a /rang]1 h[ev]1 f want ( exp]i5ce d some?+ contr>y to ! usages ( ! c\ntry1 an ori5tal w pret5d n to notice x1 z a well-br$ ,engli%man w\ld d if ! cases 7 rev]s$4 ,di% foll[$ on di%2 :5 "s sweet/uffs 7 plac$ on ! table my hopes reviv$1 till !y 7 replac$ by yet ano!r /ew4 ,my p[]s ( absorption _h ab\t rea*$ _! limit4 ,i appeal$ to my ho/ to consid] ! limit$ dim5sions ( my l[] wai/1 & t t only prev5t$ me f do+ full ju/ice to 8 g5]\s f>e4 ,?is _h "s effect1 & ,i 0 let (f ) a tit-bit :i* he politely h&$ to me 9 8 f+]s4 #8,el-amdu li-llh6' 7,praise be to ,god7 f ! judge1 :o rose up & cont9u$ ! conv]sation :ile wa%+ 8 h&s1 0 ! abrupt sign t our fea/ 0 at an end4 ,a s]vant held a brass bas9 :ile a second p\r$ ! wat] f a ew] ov] my h&s1 &1 our ablutions at an end1 we 7 conduct$ to ! takhtabo% to sip our c(fee & smoke4 ,i 0 ask$ :]e ,i _h d9$ be=e 9 ,arab fa%ion1 & my ho/ 0 int]e/$ to he> ab\t "s di%es peculi> to ,morocco1 also h[ ,i _h f>$ ) ! ,druses 9 ! ,lebanon4 ,an ,arab meal1 9 fact1 0 n 9 itself a novelty to me2 b1 z ,i expla9$ to ! ,%eykh1 ,i _h nev] d9$ 9 su* beautiful surr\nd+s4 ,we got on to ! subject ( ,japan1 :]e ! mode ( eat+ is mu* m difficult to acquire ?an t ( ! ,ne> ,ea/4 ,my he>]s %[$ a mu* great] int]e/ 9 ?+s ,japanese ?an ,i expect$1 = z a rule a ,moslem's sympa?ies r>ely ext5d to c\ntries beyond ! sway ( ,islam4 ,h[ ,i _h got on )\t meat1 bread1 milk or butt] surpris$ !m1 & settl$ any possible d\bts z to :e!r !y might wi% to g !re !mselves4 ,i am told t dur+ ! ,russo-,japanese w> ev5ts 7 foll[$ ) ke5 int]e/ 9 ,egypt4 ,e victory ( ! ,japanese 0 con/ru$ into a victory ( a non-,*ri/ian p ov] a ,*ri/ian p[]--( ! ,asiatic ov] ! ,european4 ,:5 a book ,i _h writt5 on my exp]i5ces 9 ,japan appe>$ at ! ,cairo booksell]s'1 ,i 0 int]view$ by ! editor ( an ,arabic pap] to give him z _m p>ticul>s z ,i c\ld conc]n+ ,japan4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,takhtabo% ,i avoid$ all talk z to ! pres5t rgime 9 ,egypt4 ,?\gh "o ( my he>]s _h a safe billet1 & ! ,%eykh probably felt a great] security = ! prop]ty he holds ?an he w\ld if our occupation ( ,egypt ceas$1 nev]!less ! /+ ( be+ gov]n$ by ! unbeliev]s is always !re1 let ! unbeliev]'s yoke be ev] s light a "o4 ,a suspicion t ,i might be h9d]+ ! aft]noon nap induc$ me to bid f>ewell to my ho/ & ! judge4 ,mansoor _h be5 hav+ a good "t fea/+ ) ! s]vants1 & :5 he jo9$ me ,i ask$ him to divide a riyal betwe5 ^? :o _h s]v$ me4 ,i wat*$ him pres5t ! money to "o ( !m & 9 ! pres5ce ( ! o!rs1 = ,i _h reason to suspect 8 hone/y4 ,i c\ld n he> ! talk :i* foll[$1 b saw ! money pass$ on to a boy1 :o 0 told to g to a %op & *ange x4 ,i saw no object 9 wait+ any long]1 s left ! h\se4 ,mansoor wi%$ to /ay beh9d1 & z ,i did n see :y he %\ld get any ( ! tip1 ,i made him come ) me4 ,9 ! ma9 /reet ,i hail$ a pass+ cab4 ,mansoor n[ seem$ r di/urb$ & ask$ if he c\ld g back4 #8,! boy w n "k :]e to br+ ! *ange ( ! riyal4' #8,did y n tell ! boy to give ! *ang$ money to be divid$ among ! s]vants8' ,i ask$4 #8,no1 ,i did n say x 0 = ! s]vants1' he answ]$1 ) ! look ( a detect$ ?ief2 #8,i told him to br+ ! *ange back to y1 sir4 ,please all[ me to return to ! h\se & ,i w tell !m :at y\r int5tions 74' ,i c\ld n return myself to see ! matt] ?r\gh1 z ,i rememb]$ an appo9tm5t ,i _h to keep1 & ,i let ! man g4 ,x dawn$ on me z ,i drove to my hotel t ,mansoor's object 9 hang+ beh9d 0 to int]cept ! boy return+ ) ! *ange & to pocket ! lot himself4 ,expla9+ ! circum/ances to "o :o _h _h a long exp]i5ce ( native s]vants1 ,i 0 assur$ t my suspicions 7 n unf\nd$4 ,?is villa91 :o _h be5 well ent]ta9$ by ! s]vants ( ! h\se1 _h conceiv$ ?is +5i\s mann] ( robb+ !m ( _! gratuity4 ,:5 he turn$ up ! next morn+ ,i told him ,i %\ld want him no long]4 ,seem+ to "q ! reason ( 8 sudd5 dismissal1 ,i sugge/$ a police inquiry z to ! disposal ( ! riyal4 ,he wi%$ to he> no m1 & vani%$ l ! gho/ :o 0 ask$ = a subscription4 ,n[ ?is is a type ( man :o1 b = ! salut>y regulation z to grant+ lic5ces1 w\ld h become a dragoman1 & h reap$ a good h>ve/1 dur+ ! %ort season1 by robb+ ! t\ri/ by day1 & conduct+ o!rs by night to witness e k9d ( abom9ation4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,9 ,,:i* ,i ,,get ,,ano!r ,,s]vant ,,& ,,hunt ,,= ,a ,,crocodile2 ,,also ,a ,,cont9uation ,,( ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,pr9cess ,,zohra ,i f\nd a man1 :o 0 us$ to att5d+ arti/s on _! r\nds1 soon] ?an ,i _h hop$ =4 ,he 0 a r\gh] type ( man ?an my la/ "o1 b "o to :om ,i took mu* m readily4 ,he spoke no ,engli%1 :i* 0 9 8 fav\r1 = ?\gh ?is might sometimes be inconv5i5t1 x suit$ my purpose bett] to practise my ,arabic ?an to h him air+ 8 ,engli% on me4 ,mahmood ,hanafy is 8 "n4 ,i give x ) pleasure1 & 9 hopes t possibly ^! l9es may be read by "s "o :o might be glad ( 8 s]vices4 ,no two m5 ( ! same nationality c\ld h be5 a great] contra/ ?an ?is ,mahmood & ! disgrac$ ,mansoor4 ,! m traps ,mahmood _h to c>ry1 ! m he seem$ to l x2 :5 ,i sugge/$ tak+ a cab1 he w\ld say ! place 0 no di/ance1 & cabs 7 v de>--he _h evid5tly be5 well tra9$ by =m] bro!r-bru%es4 ,mansoor1 on ! o!r h&1 always _h a cab ne> ! hotel :5 we />t$1 & w\ld place my sket*+ ?+s on ! box 9 hopes ,i w\ld take x4 ,di/ances 7 always enorm\s ) him1 & :5 ,i took a cab1 he w\ld decl>e t ! d\bl$ f>e ask$ 0 none too mu*4 ,! extra squeeze he c\ld !n get out ( ! cabby h>monis$ ) 8 natural laz9ess4 ,mahmood 0 a plucky fell[1 & ready to cle> a /reet ( p if he ?\ght !y 7 9 my way2 :ile ,mansoor's brav]y nev] w5t fur!r ?an slapp+ a *ild if ! p>5ts 7 n pres5t1 :]eas1 if "s hooligans promis$ to be a nuisance1 he g5]ally slipp$ away4 ,mahmood _h "o drawback :i* 8 pr$ecessor _h n1 & t 0 a l\d voice4 ,n[1 z no pill[ 0 ev] ?ick en\gh to prev5t my he>+ my wat* tick+1 a huge volume ( s\nd 0 n necess>y :5 he answ]$ my que/ions4 ,if he ?\ght ,i did n und]/& him1 he evid5tly took x = h>dness ( he>+1 & 8 answ]s w\ld be l\d en\gh to />tle ! /reet4 ,i c\ld n correct him ( ?is1 ?\gh he tri$ to m5d4 ,tra9$ z a donkey-boy1 ?is voice _h d\btless be5 ( use bo? 9 direct+ 8 bea/ & 9 ! alt]cations :i* (t5 end a ride4 ,possibly ! deafe/ donkeys 7 plac$ 9 8 c>e4 ,he 0 n[ ! own] ( _m donkeys1 he told me1 & he let !m out by ! mon? in/ead ( runn+ aft] "o himself4 ,he 0 always ready1 h[ev]1 to run aft] "o if ,i %\ld require x4 ,8 dress 0 m humble ?an t ( ,mansoor1 b he nev] plead$ pov]ty to try & get some?+ ov] 8 wage4 ,he told me he _h all he want$1 & %\ld ,i n wi% to use him = a few days1 he w\ld will+ly re/ till 8 s]vices w\ld be requir$4 ,! o!r man1 ?\gh sm>tly dress$1 _h always "s tale ( pov]ty h&y :5 ,i gave him 8 wage1 & always begg$ = an advance on 8 future pay4 ,_h he n a numb] ( p dep5d5t on him8 & ! co/ ( food1 _h x n ris5 s mu*8 ,i f\nd out aft]w>ds t he _h no dep5dants1 & t he spong$ on 8 si/]s :5 he 0 out ( "w4 ,he _h ! appe>ance ( "o addict$ to ha%%ee%1 & probably only smok$ ?is ( an ev5+1 = ,i c\ld nev] detect ! smell4 ,?is drug is happily n[ =bidd5 to ent] ! c\ntry1 & /rong measures are tak5 to prev5t its use4 ,a c]ta9 am\nt does1 h[ev]1 get smuggl$ 91 & ! a%%a% or victim to ! drug c /ill procure x if he c pay = its enhanc$ price4 ,! smell ( its fumes 0 mu* m famili> =m]ly 9 ! humbl] c(fee-%ops2 b x is n q abs5t n[4 ,x is (t5 mix$ ) tumbk1 a k9d ( ,p]sian tobacco1 & is smok$ 9 ! gzeh1 a pipe made ( a cocoanut-%ell1 :i* has a long cane /em4 ,"o :o indulges slightly 9 ! habit w\ld n be t]m$ a a%%a% any m ?an a mod]ate dr9k] 9 ,engl& w\ld be t]m$ a drunk>d4 ,! opprobrium atta*$ to ! t]m is mu* increas$ ?r\gh its association ) ! a%%a%seyn ( ! "t ( ! ,crusades1 :om we "k z ! ,assass9s--! subjects ( ! #8,sultan ( ! ,ca/les & ,=tresses1' m commonly call$ #8! old man ( ! m\nta94' ,!y 7 said to indulge freely 9 ha%%ee% :5 s5t on "s murd]\s err& by _! *ief4 ,r[dy or riot\s p are (t5 t]m$ #8,ha%%a%e5' :e!r !y be addict$ to ! drug or n4 ,see+ an excitable cr[d q rec5tly1 9 "o ( ! pr9cipal squ>es ( ,cairo1 ,i approa*$ to see :at 0 ! matt]4 ,a brutal-look+ man 0 /ruggl+ ) a c\ple ( policem5 :o 7 tak+ him (f to jail1 :ile o!rs 7 plac+ on a /ret*] a y\? :o 0 t]ribly hack$ ab\t 8 face & head4 ,on inquiry ,i he>d t ! man 9 *>ge ( ! police 0 employ$ at ! public slaught]-h\se1 t he 0 giv5 to ha%%ee%1 & t 9 a fit ( madness he _h j assault$ ) 8 but*]'s knife ! w\nd$ y\?4 ,! t]m ha%%a%1 :i* 0 freely us$ by ! cr[d1 _h a p>ticul>ly gruesome s\nd on t occasion4 ,l\d & furi\s 7 ! comm5ts ( ,mahmood1 & _h he n be5 c>ry+ my mat]ials he w\ld h jo9$ 9 ! /ruggle ) ! but*]4 ,z ?is took place j )9 ! limits ( ! ,european qu>t]1 x 0 fully report$ 9 ! =eign ,cairo pap]s4 ,! y\? succumb$ to 8 w\nds1 & ! ha%%a% paid ! dea? p5alty4 ,i 0 on my way to ! ,khaleeg to look = a subject :i* _h attract$ me on a =m] visit1 & be=e ?is canal _h be5 fill$ 9 by ! tramway company4 ,a *ange = ! bett]1 possibly1 f a hygi5ic po9t ( view1 & also z a means ( communication2 b a sad loss to ! picturesque4 ,_m hi/oric build+s :i* back$ on to ! canal h be5 pull$ d[n1 & commonplace frontages w soon blot out all remembrance ( !m4 ,! tramway hav+ come to /ay1 x is z well to make ! be/ ( x1 & to use its c>s along ! c\ple ( miles :i* bisect ! city f nor? to s\?4 ,f ?is r\te _m a peep into "s old c\rty>d1 or ! back ( a mosque or palm-%ad$ %r9e1 may induce a desc5t f ! c>s & a tramp along ! du/y road4 ,j beyond ! pres5t gov]norat 0 an angle ( ! enclosure kn[n z ! #8gu>d$ city4' ,?is =m$ m or less ( a squ>e ( r m ?an half a mile ea* way1 & its we/]n wall /ood on ! ea/ side ( ! pres5t fill$-9 canal4 ,! build+ ( ?is enclosure m>ks su* an important date 9 ! m$ival hi/ory ( ,egypt t a few words "h may n be amiss4 ,/anley ,lane ,poole tells u1 9 ! ,/ory ( ,cairo1 h[ 9 #iei ,ga:>1 ! victori\s g5]al ( el-,mo'izz 7! fir/ ,khalif ( ! ,fatimid dyna/y71 ent]$ ,masr1 z ! capital ( ,egypt 0 !n call$1 & /ill is by its native inhabitants4 ,plague & fam9e _h s r$uc$ ! population1 t sc>cely any resi/ance 0 (f]$ to ! troops :i* ,ga:> _h l$ f ,tunis into ! valley ( ! ,nile4 ,8 fir/ ?\ght 0 to build a =tifi$ place away f ! plague-/rick5 city1 & yet ne> en\gh to keep x 9 subjection4 ,beyond its nor!rn extremity he pit*$ 8 camp on a s&y wa/e1 unob/ruct$ by any build+s save an old conv5t4 ,! prevail+ w9ds be+ f ! nor?1 hygi5ic reasons 7 also 9 fav\r ( ?is site4 ,:5 ! b\nd>ies ( ! enclosure 7 m>k$ out1 a/rolog]s 7 consult$ z to an auspici\s h\r 9 :i* to />t digg+ ! f\ndations4 ,f poles /uck 9 ! gr\nd ropes 7 /ret*$1 f :i* bells 7 hung1 & ?\s&s ( m5 /ood ready ) %ovel & pick to dig out ! tr5*es z soon z ! a/rolog]s %ook ! poles1 & by ! t9kl+ ( ! bells ann\nc$ ! auspici\s mom5t4 ,! int5tions ( ! a/rolog]s 71 h[ev]1 =e/all$ by a rav5 :o1 alight+ on a rope1 set ! bells ar++1 & e spade 0 in/antly /uck into ! soil4 ,x 0 dur+ ! h\r :5 ! planet ,m>s 7el-,khir7 0 9 ! asc5dant--an evil om5 = ! future peace ( ! place4 #8,masr el-,khira' ?us became ! "n1 n only ( ! =tifi$ enclosure1 b also ( ! adjac5t city4 #8,el-,khira1' or ! ,m>tial1 is t f :i* we get our ,cairo4 ,! om5 0 turn$ to good acc\nt by ! a/rolog]s4 ,mess5g]s 7 s5t to ,mo'izz to ann\nce t ! f\ndations ( a triumphant ,masr _h be5 laid2 ! "n ( ! la/ ( ! ,abbasid ,khalifs 0 no m he>d 9 ! pray]s :i* 7 (f]$ up 9 ! mosque ( ,amr1 & ,mo'izz 0 proclaim$ ! rul] ( ,egypt4 ,8 conque/s n[ ext5d$ f ! ,atlantic to ! ,arabian des]t1 & = two c5turies ! ,fatimid dyna/y rul$ ! c\ntry4 ,walls1 describ$ z be+ ?ick en\gh to all[ f\r horses to be driv5 abrea/ on !m1 7 built r\nd ! enclosure2 ! f\ndations ( a va/ palace wor?y ( ! great ,khalif 7 laid2 & build+s 7 plann$ to accommodate 8 c\rt1 & ^? :o w\ld gu>d 8 sacr$ p]son4 ,! common folk 7 n admitt$ )9 ! gates ( ! enclosure aft] ! ,khalif _h tak5 up 8 resid5ce4 ,x 0 !n designat$ #8,kahira-el-,mahrusa1' or ! gu>d$ city4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mosque ,,( ,,mohamm$ ,,bey ,! ,%eea h]esy :i* ,mo'izz _h fo/]$1 :e!r f conviction or f policy1 _h a f>-rea*+ influ5ce on ! de/9y ( ! c\ntry4 ,9 ! mosques or?odox ,moslems 7 replac$ by %eykhs ( ! fav\r$ sect4 ,*ri/ians & ,jews 7 tol]at$ & (t5 put 9 high positions4 ,:at civilisation ga9$ "h x m ?an lo/ by cutt+ (f ,cairo f ! great c5tres ( ,s>ac5ic le>n+1 & ?\gh b5t on de/roy+ ! p[] ( ! ,sunnee or or?odox ,moslems1 !re is no reason to suppose t lean+s ( ,mo'izz 7 t[>ds ,*ri/ianity4 ,to rem$y ?is he built ! univ]sity mosque ( el-,azh>1 pr\dly call$ #8,! ,respl5d5t4' ,he end[$ x lib]ally1 & gave ! /ud5ts e opportunity to /udy ! ,%eea tea*+ :i* _h caus$ ! rift 9 ! ,mohamm$an _w4 ,a great impetus 0 giv5 to art by ! removal ( ! prohibition to copy any natural objects2 & birds & bea/s1 fl[]s & foliage 7 freely made use ( 9 design dur+ ! ,fatimid p]iod4 ,un=tunately little rema9s ( ?is1 =1 :5 ! or?odox p>ty ga9$ ! asc5dant dur+ ! rule ( ! ,h\se ( ,salah$91 ^! decorations 7 #8a m>k ( ! bea/' & 7 9 mo/ cases de/roy$4 ,vivid descriptions exi/ ( ! spl5d\r ( ,mo'izz & ! great #8,ea/ ,palace' :i* he built4 ,b no?+ ( all ?is n[ rema9s except ! ,azh>1 :i* ju/ly is /ill "o ( ! mo/ fam\s monum5ts ( ,cairo4 ,p>allel to ! canal runs a n>r[ /reet call$ #8,beyn-es-,sureyn' or #8,betwe5 ! walls1' & ?is conducts into ano!r call$ #8%>ia el-,b5t1' :i* means ! /reet ( ! si/]s4 ,x is "h ,i h come to make a /udy ( a doorway ( little ar*itectural pret5sions2 x leads into a h\se built 9 ! middle ( ! n9ete5? c5tury & :i* back$ into ! canal4 ,a t]rific-look+ crocodile us$ to hang ov] ! door1 & ?is "o z well z o!rs _h caught my att5tion dur+ =m] visits z be+ a *>act]i/ic ornam5t ( a ,nile city4 ,/ories1 ,i h s9ce he>d1 ref] to ?is crocodile1 & made me wi% to make a draw+ ( x4 ,*ildr5 us$ to pass x & speak ) bat$ brea?2 = x 0 said t x _h gr[n to its size f fe$+ on ! *ildr51 ! p>5ts ( :om ! ma/] ( ! h\se _h sla9 9 ,s5na>4 ,! h\se 0 built by ! awe-inspir+ ,deft]d> ,ahm$1 :om ,mohamm$ ,ali _h s5t to ! ,sudan to av5ge ! murd] ( "o ( 8 sons1 & s t]rible 7 8 acts ( retribution t he is s9ce kn[n z ! #8,tig] ( ,s5na>4' ,8 *ief int]e/1 h[ev]1 = ! pres5t is1 t1 p>tly z a rew>d = 8 val\r1 ! great ,pa%a gave him "o ( 8 daught]s 9 m>riage4 ,mohamm$ ,ali is report$ to h said t ! ,tig] w\ld be a fitt+ mate to 8 ,tigress4 ,if my read]s h n =gott5 ! fate ( ,o',donald1 ! "y ,iri% (fic]1 !y may recognise 9 ?is ,tigress ! lady ( 8 undo+4 ,x is relat$ t ! pr9cess ,zohra1 aft] ! murd] ( h] lov]1 0 = _m days z "o b]eft ( h] s5ses4 ,! fir/ consci\s act we he> ( h] is :5 %e /ole f ! palace 9 ! dead ( night & f\nd h] way to ! field :]e ,o',donald 0 buri$4 ,! jackals & dogs _h left no trace visible ( :]e ! un=tunate man 0 plac$1--!y _h done _! "w z well z ,abbas c\ld h wi%$4 ,! poor woman 0 f\nd at break ( day1 grubb+ ) h] h&s 9 ! soil to f9d ! body ( h] belov$ "o4 ,%e 0 =cibly l$ back to ! palace & ! matt] 0 report$ to h] fa!r4 ,! s]vants 7 sev]ely puni%$ = all[+ h] to escape f ! h>eem1 & ,zohra 0 kept 9 /rict conf9em5t4 ,:5 ! ,deft]d> return$ soon aft]1 f 8 campaign 9 ! ,sudan1 ,ali wi%$ to hon\r him z highly z he c\ld4 ,he saw also 9 him "o :o _h /r5g? ( w suffici5t to be a mat* = 8 wilful daught]4 ,ahm$ 0 pr\d ( ! alliance1 & built & furni%$ a palace "h 9 ! #8%>ia el-,b5t1' wor?y to be ! home ( 8 exalt$ bride4 ,:e!r ! ,deft]d>'s life 0 a happy "o we are n told4 ,b x 0 a %ort "o3--8 dea? 0 due to a /roke1 said ! c\rt physicians2 poison1 :isp]$ ! neighb\rs2 & poison1 said ,abbas1 ^: hatr$ ( 8 aunt & =m] playmate grew z "t w5t on4 ,little 0 se5 or he>d ( ! wid[$ pr9cess = "s "t aft]4 ,few ladies f ! diff]5t h>eems 7 bold en\gh to call on h]1 & ! huge crocodile seem$ m l a bogey to fright5 p (f ?an an emblem ( luck to ! h\se :i* he adorn$4 ,! my/]i\s disappe>ance ( "o or two "y m5 became ! talk ( ! neighb\rhood1 & ?is increas$ z ! abs5ce ( o!rs 0 obs]v$4 ,! body ( "o 0 f\nd 9 ! canal close to ! wat]-gate ( ,zohra's palace1 & %ortly aft] ?is a second "o 0 se5 !re4 ,no "o d>$ voice _! suspicions2 b :5 ! public /ory-tell]s 7! %o>a7 told ( ,kattalet-e%-,%ugan1 ! ,arabian ,messal9a1 kn[+ looks 7 pass$ among/ ! audi5ce4 ,! trag$ies 7 repeat$ f "t to "t1 & e "m ( a h&some son trembl$ le/ he %\ld be caught 9 ! toils ( "o %e h>dly d>$ "n1 b ^: "n 0 9 ! ?\ghts ( all4 ,abbas kept himself well in=m$ z to :at w5t on 9 ,zohra's palace1 b he abid$ 8 "t until ,mohamm$ ,ali %\ld return f ! w>s1 or until =tune %\ld fav\r 8 accession to ! vic]egal ?rone4 ,9 #ahda ! firmn ( inve/iture1 z x is call$1 br\ght ! w>s1 :i* ,mohamm$ ,ali _h wag$ ) v>y+ success1 to a close4 ,! h]$it>y sov]eignty ( ,egypt _h be5 secur$ to ! family ( ! great ,pa%a &1 except = ! annual tribute to be paid to ! ,porte1 ,egypt _h become an indep5d5t /ate4 ,pr9ce ,abbas n[ in=m$ 8 gr&fa!r ( ! go+s-on 9 8 daught]'s palace4 ,g5tle p]suasion 0 nev] a *>act]i/ic ( ! old g5tleman1 & ! mann] 9 :i* he put a /op to ^! sc&als reads l a /ory 9 ! ,arabian ,nights4 ,x is relat$ t ?irty masons & tw5ty-five donkeys lad5 ) bricks 7 imm$iately despat*$ to wall up1 dur+ t v day1 e outside w9d[ & door except ! "o surm\nt$ by ! crocodile4 ,a company ( soldi]s 7 also s5t to see t ^! ord]s 7 /rictly c>ri$ out4 ,be=e sund[n ,zohra's palace _h become a v]itable prison4 ,a mode/ h\se imm$iately fac+ ! crocodile 0 inhabit$ by a ,coptic scribe4 ,?is innoc5t man & 8 family 7 bundl$ out ) all _! belong+s1 & 8 h\se 0 turn$ into a gu>d-room4 ,a wat* 0 kept "h day & night to see t no "o1 or no?+ b :at 0 necess>y to ! upkeep ( ! h\sehold1 %\ld pass ?r\gh ! "o access to ! palace4 ,we are n told h[ ! pr9cess pass$ ! next few ye>s 9 h] prison4 ,mohamm$ ,ali sank into 8 dotage1 & ! re9s ( gov]nm5t 7 tak5 ov] by 8 adopt$ son ,ibrahim4 ,pr9ce ,abbas _h n to wait long be=e ! legitimate succession came to him1 = ,ibrahim ,pa%a di$ )9 a ye> ( 8 vic]oyalty & %ortly be=e ! dem5t$ ,mohamm$ ,ali's decease4 ,abbas !n became ! rul] ( ,egypt4 ,zohra n[ realis$ h] dang] 9 rema9+ 9 ,cairo4 ,9 spite ( ! gu>d set to wat* h] movem5ts %e succe$$ 9 escap+ f ! canal side ( h] palace1 & %e cross$ into ,syria be=e h] flight became kn[n to h] nephew4 ,f ,syria %e repair$ to ,con/ant9ople1 :]e %e s\ght & obta9$ ! protection ( ! ,sultan ( ,turkey4 ,we w leave h] !re = ! pres5t1 & p]haps we may ref] to h] do+s lat] on4 ,! crocodile ,i 0 9 se>* ( _h disappe>$1 & no?+ rema9$ :]eby ,i c\ld exactly locate ! palace4 ,! /ory ( ,zohra1 ?\gh ( s rec5t a date1 seems n[ to take its place ) ! trag$ies enact$ )9 ,mo'izz's #8gu>d$ city4' ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,( ,a ,,cairo ,,caf ,,& ,,o!r ,,matt]s ,i _h n f> to g along ! fill$-9 canal be=e a p>tly pull$ d[n h\sefront enabl$ me to see ! c\rt ( a once important dwell+4 ,x 0 simil> 9 plan to _m ,i h se52 b x 0 ! only in/ance ,i h met ( a vault$ takhtabo%4 ,a wood5 scre5 p>tly %ut x (f f ! y>d1 & an op5+ 9 "o ( ! panels s]v$ z a doorway4 ,:e!r ?is scre5 belong$ to ! orig9al build+ ,i _c say2 b x c]ta9ly add$ greatly to its picturesque appe>ance4 ,! recess 0 n[ conv]t$ into a c(fee-%op1 :ile ! re/ ( ! h\se 0 let out 9 t5em5ts to poor p4 ,x is nev] safe to leave a good subject to a lat] p]iod1 if x c possibly be help$4 ,"s arrangem5t ( l9e or col\r1 (t5 h>d to def9e1 may be j :at gives ! subject its *>m4 ,some?+ may h di/urb$ ?is1 or "s t\* ( col\r may h gone1 be=e a second visit1 & x leaves ! pa9t] wond]+ z to :at he c\ld h se5 9 ! place to h made him wi% to pa9t x4 ,i />t$ sket*+ 9 ! caf at once1 hop+ t "s cu/om]s might arrive to sugge/ a gr\p+ ( figures4 ,%\ld ^! cu/om]s be que] ones1 ,i c\ld tru/ to ,mahmood to keep !m f di/urb+ me at my "w4 ,i _h n long to wait be=e a half-doz5 m5 came 94 ,!y seem$ suffici5tly int]e/$ 9 some?+ n to take mu* notice ( me4 ,!y squatt$ d[n on _! heels1 =m+ a r+1 & two ( !m ea* pull$ a game-cock f "u _! cloaks & pit*$ !m on to ! gr\nd4 ,! ,cair5e is usually v noisy dur+ 8 ent]ta9m5ts2 b 9 ?is case few words 7 spok51 ?\gh ! m5 wat*$ ! v>y+ success ( _! birds ) int5se int]e/4 ,i 0 too occupi$ 9 tak+ notes ( ! m5 & ! action ( ! cocks to feel any int]e/ 9 ! sport1 & by ! "t "o ( ! birds 0 at its la/ gasp1 & lay ble$+ on ! gr\nd1 ,i felt a suffici5t disgu/ = ! :ole ?+ to decide me n to make x ! subject ( a picture4 ,i saw !m ref] to ,mahmood z to :o ,i might be1 = ,koranic law =bids all bett+1 & ,i believe cock-fight+ is contr>y to police regulations4 ,!y seem$ satisfi$ t ,i 0 h>mless en\gh1 & !y dep>t$ z quietly z !y _h come4 ,! sport mu/ be a v popul> "o1 = ^! birds1 ) _! combs closely cut & ) pluck$ necks1 may be se5 9 almo/ any /reet 9 ! poor] p>ts ( ! t[n4 ,:e!r ! anci5t ,egyptians indulg$ 9 cock-fight+1 ,i h nev] be5 able to asc]ta94 ,i c recall no wall inscriptions depict+ ! sport1 nei!r does ,wilk9son ref] to x 9 8 ,mann]s & ,cu/oms ( ! ,anci5t ,egyptians4 ,x 0 probably introduc$ into ,egypt dur+ ! ,ptolemies or1 at ! late/1 dur+ ! ,roman occupation4 ,quail-fight+ is common 9 ,upp] ,egypt1 ?\gh ,i h p]sonally nev] witness$ x4 ,! sun soon made my place unt5able1 s ,i decid$ to return 9 ! aft]noon1 :5 ,i might also expect to f9d m cu/om]s to sugge/ "s figure arrangem5t suitable to my picture4 ,x 0 a gr& place = ,mahmood--cups ( c(fee at two = a p5ny4 ,i c\ld treat him to z _m z he lik$1 & please ! ,kahwegee at ! same "t4 ,i confess to a good _m cups myself1 = c(fee made 9 ,turki% fa%ion is mo/ s$uctive4 ,! cups are v small1 & !re is only a sip ( liquid be=e rea*+ ! gr\nds1 :i* are all[$ to settle at ! bottom4 ,b x is a delici\s sip1 & x is also v /imulat+4 ,! habit ( aft]noon tea acquir$ 9 ,engl& is h>d to break1 & to make a j\rney into ! mod]n qu>t]s to indulge x w\ld h cut s]i\sly into my "w1 & ,i f\nd 9 "o ( ^! little cups ( c(fee an excell5t sub/itute4 ,pa9t :]e "o wi%es1 a c(fee-%op is sure to be )9 easy rea*1 & ! ,kahwegee w always = a trifle br+ c(fee1 a *air1 & a glass ( wat]1 & place !m next to "o's easel4 ,n[ t ! native qu>t]s are suppli$ ) pure wat]1 "o c dr9k ! latt] ) safety4 ,c(fee dr9k+ is (t5 c>ri$ to excess 9 ,egypt1 ) delet]i\s effects to n]ves & dige/ion2 b its victims are less objectionable neighb\rs to ! sket*] ?an ! fuddl$ ,european1 :o may bore him ) que/ions & brea! on him ! od\r ( 8 compla9t4 ,x is said t drunk5ness is on ! increase among/ ! natives1 & x is true t tipsy m5 are occasionally se54 ,!y are *iefly ! loaf]s :o hang ab\t ! ,european qu>t]s1 :]e mode/ c(fee-%ops h>dly exi/1 & :]e ne>ly e o!r h\se retails "s or o!r intoxicant4 ,be] or spirits are h>dly obta9able 9 ! purely native p>ts ( ,cairo4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,cair5e ,,caf ,t[>ds ev5+ ?is qua9t little caf w\ld liv5 up4 ,! wood5 b5* :i* s]v$ z a ma/aba might seat an lim 7z any "o :o c read is (t5 call$71 :o w\ld drone out ! news f ! daily pap] to a gr\p ( li/5]s1 & ! s\nd ( ! *equ]s slamm$ on a backgammon-bo>d w\ld make an accompany+ click1 click1 f inside ! recess4 ,?is game has be5 borr[$ f ! ,firangi1 & is /ill call$ by its ,fr5* "n ( #8tric-trac4' ,x is imm5sely popul> among/ ! eff5di class1 & is gradually be+ adopt$ by ^? ( a humbl] /ation4 ,! m primitive mankaleh is /ill play$ 9 ,cairo1 & is /ill univ]sal 9 ! villages :]e tric-trac has n yet f\nd its way4 ,i h be5 %[n h[ to play x1 b space w n all[ ( a l5g?y description ( its details4 ,x is play$ on an oblong bo>d ) twelve holl[s 9 two r[s ( six ea*1 ea* r[ =m+ an oppos+ camp4 ,!re are sev5ty-two c[ries1 or1 fail+ ^!1 small pebbles1 & x is accord+ to ! mann] 9 :i* ^! are di/ribut$ into ! holl[s t makes ! game4 ,an elaborate acc\nt ( ! v>i\s modes ( play+ x is giv5 9 ,lane's ,mod]n ,egyptians4 ,x is report$ z hav+ obta9$ 9 ,ph>aonic times1 b ?is has nev] be5 satisfactorily confirm$4 ,turki% draughts is also a popul> game1 & to my ?9k+ mu* m amus+ ?an ! way we play x 9 ,engl&4 ,t ?is game 0 kn[n 7or a =m ( x7 among/ ! anci5ts is c]ta91 & mo/ visitors to ,m$9et ,hab w h be5 %[n ! pres5tm5t ( ,rameses ,,iii4 play+ x ) 8 que54 ,games ( *ance1 z well z bett+1 are =bidd5 by ! ,koran4 ,a po9t is1 h[ev]1 usually /ret*$ 9 all[+ ! los] to pay = ! cups ( c(fee4 ,9 mankaleh ! play] backs 8 skill m ?an 8 luck1 :]eas 9 backgammon ! ?r[ ( ! dice br+s 9 a l>ge elem5t ( *ance4 ,a /rict ,mohamm$an w !re=e ab/a9 f ! latt] game4 ,z ! day decl9$1 m cu/om]s w\ld drop 91 & by ! "t ! lamps 7 lit ,i (t5 regrett$ t my hotel table d'hte call$ me away to ! ,ismaeliyeh qu>t]4 ,! light f ! primitive lamps pi]c+ a blue atmosph]e ( smoke1 & fall+ on ! gr\ps ( figures int5t on _! games1 left a picture 9 my m9d :i* ,i hop$ might n be dimm$ by ! m commonplace aspect ( an up-to-date hotel4 ,p]haps1 aft] all1 x is z well t circum/ances oblige me to reside away f t "p :i* ,i reg>d z ! true ,cairo4 ,putt+ aside matt]s ( heal?1 x is a loss to be cut (f f "o's c\ntrym51 or ^? ( o!r c\ntries ^: mode ( life resembles "o's own4 ,unless a man c take 8 wife ) him1 he may pass mon?s )\t see+ a woman's face1 or ex*ang+ a ^w ) "o ( 8 opposite sex4 ,?is has be5 my exp]i5ce 9 ,upp] ,egypt & :ile camp+ 9 ! des]t1 :]e ! woman w hide away f a /range man1 & :]e h] voice w nev] be he>d except %e be scream+ at "o ( h] *ildr51 or 9 alt]cation ) a neighb\r4 ,! s]vants are always males1 & ! food b\ght 9 ! villages is always s5t by a man or a boy4 ,if ,i /roll$ 9 to see ! ,omdeh or ! village %eykh1 ,i %\ld h to wait till 8 wom5-folk 7 well out ( ! way4 ,_! conv]sation might n h be5 edify+2 b 0 t ( ! m5 always s8 ,life 9 a purely ,mohamm$an c\ntry1 if sep>at$ f wife & family1 is a "o-sex exi/5ce4 ,i h met cultur$ m5 9 ! ,ne> ,ea/1 :o = long p]iods _h _h little int]c\rse ) ^? ( _! own nationality1 & ,i notic$ h[ ill at ease !y seem$ :5 br\ght 9 contact ) ,european ladies & g5tlem54 ,life 0 /range en\gh away f ! ,european settlem5ts 9 ,japan1 b x 0 a m complete life4 ,?\gh ,i might n und]/& a ^w spok5 by ! ,okosan or ! m\sume1 _! smiles ( welcome 7 p]fectly und]/&able4 ,! hotel ,villa ,victoria1 :i* ,i h ( late made my headqu>t]s 9 ,cairo1 is out ( ! g5]al ru% ( t\ri/s1 & is frequ5t$ by _m :o are at times engag$ 9 excavat+1 or are 9 "s way connect$ ) ! ,antiquities ,dep>tm5t4 ,!re are also p]man5t gue/s 9 v>i\s ,gov]nm5t ,(fices1 z well z o!rs ^: bus9ess br+s !m 9 contact ) ?+s ,egyptian4 ,i 0 "h long en\gh = acqua9tance ) my fell[-lodg]s to rip5 into fri5d%ip1 & besides ! pleasure ( _! company1 ,i 0 enabl$ to pick up a good deal ( in=mation4 ,i c\ld also /ay "h at any "t ( ! ye>1 :]eas mo/ ( ! huge c>avans>ies put up _! %utt]s :5 ! t\ri/ season is ov]4 ,!re 7 also ladies "h :o _h ! entre into ! h>eems ( ! pr9cipal h\ses1 & ?\gh !y 7 c>eful n to give away :at is n int5d$ = g5]al discussion1 ,i 0 yet able to get "s idea ( ! life :i* is l$ 9 ! #8prohibit$ places4' ,! int]ior ( a pr9cely home 9 ,cairo at pres5t mu/ resemble t ( a l>ge ,p>isian or ,london h\se1 mu* m ?an t ( ! ,%eykh ,saheime :i* ,i attempt$ to describe 9 a =m] *apt]4 ,! picture :i* a reception-room 9 ! h>eem conjures up 9 ! we/]n m9d--( love-sick ,zuleikas sprawl+ on cu%ion$ floors1 sigh+ = _! ,selims & suck+ sweets--may be safely dismiss$4 ,diaphan\s divid$ skirts no m conceal _! l[] limbs1 nor d gold-braid$ corsets set (f ! symmetry ( _! figures4 ,! ,p>isian modi/e #8a *ang t\t cela4' ,to u poor males1 :o only cat* a sight ( !m z !y drive by 9 _! br\ghams1 !y look /ill z ori5tal z ev]4 ,! black silk hab>ah entirely cov]s ! #8creation' f ,p>is1 & ! coiffeur's art is hid b5ea? its folds4 ,! :ite musl9 burko veils ! face except ! eyes1 & :e!r ^! veils be ?9n] ?an =m]ly ,i _c say4 ,b !y are n suffici5tly ?ick to hide completely an (t5 v pretty outl9e ( *eek & *94 ,my in=mant w5t !re to read1 or he> read1 ! ,fr5* classics1 & ?\gh "s ( ! ladies may h felt bor$ ) extracts f ,corneille1 ,i 0 told t _m 7 intellig5tly int]e/$4 ,= fe> le/ my read]s might take ,zohra z a fair specim5 ( an ,egyptian pr9cess1 ,i ha/5 to assure !m t %e 0 z great an exception among ! wom5 z 0 h] illu/ri\s fa!r among/ ! m5 ( 8 "t4 ,!re 0 mu* 9 common betwe5 fa!r & daught]4 ,! great ,pa%a let no?+ /& betwe5 himself & 8 ambitions2 any means 7 good en\gh to remove ^? :o ob/ruct$ 8 plans4 ,he 0 a brave man & a great soldi]1 & yet he c\ld /oop to trea*]\sly murd]+ ! mameluke ,beys & _! foll[]s1 :5 he consid]$ 8 rule 9 ,egypt 0 saf] )\t !m4 ,8 "y daught] 0 prep>$ to sacrifice any "o :o might ?w>t h] 9 h] misplac$ love2 & ! =m ( madness :i* foll[$ on h] unsatisfi$ desires _h its p>allel 9 ! loss ( reason by h] fa!r1 :5 8 ambitions to f\nd a great empire 7 n realis$4 ,he is report$ to h _h eighty-five *ildr51 & /range x is t1 ) a family ( su* dim5sions1 ! succession ( ! pres5t ,kh$ive %\ld h come ?r\gh an adopt$ son4 ,!re=e1 z f> z we "k1 !re is no blood relation%ip betwe5 ! actual memb]s ( ! rul+ h\se & ,mohamm$ ,ali & 8 desc5dants4 ,x is pleasant to turn f ,zohra to ! mi/ress ( a pr9cely h>eem1 :o is n[ a great lady 9 ,cairo4 ,?\gh hav+ *ildr5 ( h] own1 %e /ill f9ds room 9 h] affections1 z well z 9 h] palace1 to "m _m little girls :o h ei!r lo/ or h be5 ab&on$ by _! p>5ts4 ,%e n only gives !m a good education1 b1 z *ildr5 by adoption1 %e keeps !m until suitable husb&s are provid$ = !m4 ,a k9d] =m ( *>ity is h>d to conceive4 ,ent]ta9m5ts & visits f lady fri5ds are ( con/ant occurr5ce 9 ! weal?i] h>eems 9 ,cairo1 ?\gh ! life ( ,egyptian ladies 9 a g5]al way mu/1 f a ,european /&po9t1 be exce$+ly dull4 ,girl s*ools are on ! increase z well z home in/ruction2 b tak+ ! :ole female population ( ,egypt1 x is b>ely "o p] c5t4 z yet :o c ei!r read or write4 ,! p]c5tage among m5 is l[ en\gh--ab\t five 9 a hundr$2 b z ! enorm\s majority ( ,egyptians are peasants1 five p] c5t4 may cov] ^? :o are above ! /atus ( lab\r+ m54 ,i h he>d ! compla9t f educat$ ,moslems t _! wives 7 poor companions1 & t !y !re=e sp5t b little ( _! "t 9 _! company4 ,i don't "k :at else !y c\ld expect4 ,! fellaha woman may at times be ov]work$1 b h] exi/5ce seems a happi] "o ?an t ( _m ( h] weal?i] si/]s 9 _! en=c$ idl5ess4 ,a fa%ionable ,fr5* modi/e 0 = a :ile a gue/ at ! ,villa ,victoria4 ,%e sp5t h] "t runn+ f "o h>eem to ano!r1 gett+ ord]s = ! late/ ?+s 9 hats4 ,z "s ( ^! hats1 at ! "t ( :i* ,i am writ+1 7 ab\t half ! size ( a billi>d table1 we w\ld see h] driv+ to h] cli5ts ne>ly lo/ among/ colossal b&boxes4 ,= conv5i5ce %e wore h] *ef-d'uvre1 t is ! bigge/1 on h] own head1 & %e w\ld sometimes return cr[n$ ) a small] "o1 hav+1 z %e told u1 dispos$ ( ! ma/]piece 9 "o ( ! h>eems4 ,we 7 curi\s to "k :5 & :]e h] cli5ts c\ld we> !m1 = !y nev] appe>$ 9 ,cairo ) a ,european hat on _! heads4 #8,oh6 mais c'e/ p\r ,p>is ou ,vi5ne1' %e said1 & assur$ u t !y look$ #8bi5 *ics4' ,j ?9k ( x6--,zuleika 9 a ,p>is taxi balanc+ "o ( ^! %apeless masses ( mill9]y on ! top ( h] head6 ,to see ?+s z o!rs see !m may (t5 be ! wi% ( mo/ ( u4 ,i h nev] felt ?is wi% /rong] ?an :5 ,i h se5 "s old village %eykh ask+ 8 way ab\t mod]nis$ ,cairo4 ,"s evil g9n mu/ h rais$ ^! huge blocks ( build+s :i* h\se ! unbeliev]s4 ,/range ?+s to help !m on _! road to p]dition are expos$ 9 ! /ores1 & %eets ( "s invisible mat]ial :i* 8 eye c p5etrate1 b :i* resi/s ! t\* ( 8 f+]1 hang be=e ! accurs$ articles4 ,c>s run along ! /reets ) nei!r an ass nor a camel to draw !m4 ,sp>ks :i* fly f b5ea? ! :eels & ov]head1 accompani$ by a crackl+ s\nd1 mu/ be sure evid5ce ( ! afrit :o drives !m4 ,nas]5e wom5 talk 9 a /range language to m51 & %amelessly expose _! faces to all4 ,he passes a l>ge mod]n caf1 & sees coreligioni/s unturban$ & dress$ z ! ,frank1 p>tak+ ( =bidd5 dr9ks & disreg>d+ ! call ( ! mu$d91 :i* alone br+s a ray ( hope to ! poor %eykh4 ,he ha/5s to ! mosques--x is "s way (f1 = mosques are few & f> betwe5 9 ?is godless "p--he makes 8 pro/rations1 & he prays to ,allah t ! ,musleme5 may come by _! own aga94 ,aft] he has re/$ 9 ! native qu>t]s1 & he m$itates on 8 well-wat]$ fields1 he may wi% t "s ( 8 pray]s be n too lit]ally answ]$4 ,he may /ill rememb] ! "t :5 excessive taxation robb$ 8 p ( ! fruits ( _! lab\r1 & sc>s may yet rema9 on 8 back ( ! ,kurbg :i* drove him to ! =c$ lab\r4 ,i h mu* 9 sympa?y ) ! old %eykh1 ?\gh we may see ?+s f opposite po9ts ( view4 ,7 ! old t[n n be+ sl[ly robb$ ( its beauty & ori5tal "*1 ,i might feel indiff]5t z to :at 0 be+ done 9 ! new1 = my object 9 sp5d+ s _m seasons 9 ,egypt has nev] be5 to pa9t ! mod]n city1 :i* at its be/ c\ld nev] equal t :i* ,i c\ld f9d ne>] home4 ,! inconsi/5cy ( ! old man's pray]1 & ! contemplations ( 8 bett] wat]$ fields1 f9ds a p>allel 9 my regrets t ! old ord] gives place to ! new2 :ile ,i am c]ta9ly n indiff]5t to ! creature com=ts :i* a ,europeanis$ hotel all[s me to enjoy4 ,! discom=ts ,i h endur$ 9 native inns 9 ! unfrequ5t$ places may n h left p]man5t sc>s2 b !y w\ld recall "s v unpleasant exp]i5ces _h n ! int]e/ ( :at ,i 0 9 se>* ( giv5 !m a back seat 9 my memory4 ,ap>t f ?is selfi% po9t ( view1 x is a joy to "k t ! ?\s&s :o dwell 9 ! old city c n[ dr9k an unpollut$ wat]1 t _! sick c h an enlight5$ m$ical treatm5t1 & t ! education ( _! "y is at pres5t adapt$ to a useful citiz5%ip4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,tomb ,,( ,,%eykh ,,abd-,,el-,,deym ,our c\ntrym5 :o are guid+ ! de/9ies ( ,egypt1 & :o are hone/ly work+ = ! bett]m5t ( its p1 are n prim>ily responsible = ! unsuitable plann+ ( ! mod]n ,cairo4 ,ismael ,pa%a's boa/1 #8,l',egypte fait p>tie de l',europe1' came aft] ! remodell+ ( ,alex&ria1 & s9ce ! "t :5 ,clot ,bey drew ! plans ( a nor!rn city to be built 9 a semi-tropical c\ntry4 ,f :at ,i he>1 ?is un=tunate example is be+ foll[$ 9 ,kh>tm1 :i* is well inside ! tropics4 ,! wide sun-bak$ /reets may be pleasant to ^? :o only visit x dur+ ! %ort w9t]2 b !y :o h to rema9 !re dur+ ! long summ] mon?s may long = ! %ady lanes :i* w9d among/ ! habitations ( ! anci5t p>ts ( ,cairo4 ,! well-to-d 9 ! m$ival city 7 n oblig$ to migrate to ,europe dur+ ! hotte/ season1 z ! cli5ts ( our modi/e feel n[ con/ra9$ to d4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,! ,,coptic ,,conv5ts ,,( ,,wadi ,,natrun ,among/ ! gue/s :o halt$ at ! ,villa ,victoria1 x 0 my good =tune to make ! acqua9tance ( ,mr4 ,palm]-,jones1 an en?usia/ic ar*itect :o _h measur$ up "s ( ! e>ly ,coptic conv5ts1 & _h also recon/ruct$ on pap] dyna/ic build+s ( :i* little b ! plan is at pres5t traceable4 ,he 0 mak+ prep>ations = a j\rney to ,wadi ,natrun to cont9ue 8 "w at ! old conv5ts :i* are dott$ ab\t t valley4 ,dur+ a /ay 9 ,pr(essor ,g>/ang's camp at ,abydos1 a few ye>s ago1 my int]e/ 9 :at conc]ns ! ,copts _h be5 consid]ably excit$1 :ile ,i pa9t$ 9 ! ,coptic settlem5t :i* is a mile or two di/ant f ,seti's temple4 ,al?\gh ^! conv5ts are ( rec5t date comp>$ to f>-(f ph>aonic times1 a p]iod ( fifte5 c5turies has nev]!less elaps$ s9ce _m ( !m h be5 built4 ,!y also h ?is1 :i* gives !m a human int]e/ above ! e>li] %r9es1 & t is _! pres]vation ( ! uses = :i* !y 7 f\nd$4 ,_m are n[ no m ?an a heap ( ru9s2 b !re yet rema9s a good numb] /ill inhabit$ by monks1 & :]e ! ,*ri/ian liturgy ( ! e>ly c5turies is /ill repeat$ 9 ! *apels4 ,:5 ,mr4 ,jones k9dly propos$ t ,i %\ld jo9 him 9 8 exp$ition1 ,i 0 n long 9 mak+ up my m9d to d s4 ,8 prep>ations took long] ?an m9e1 = he _h to procure a camp outfit = a /ay 9 ! des]t1 a good di/ance f ! re/-h\se :]e he & ,i propos$ to sp5d a week toge!r4 ,i c\ld n af=d ! "t to accompany him fur!r afield1 & a week ( des]t air ,i hop$ w\ld suffice to %ake (f ! evil effects ( a t\* ( influ5za4 ,x took ov] a week to get an answ] f ! manag] ( ! ,salt & ,soda ,company1 9 ^: re/-h\se we propos$ to /ay1 al?\gh he wrote by return ( po/ tell+ u we c\ld come4 ,! di/ance 0 )9 a hundr$ miles f ,cairo2 b po/al arrangem5ts are n exp$iti\s 9 ! des]t4 ,! delay gave me "t to pa9t ! /reet :i* has be5 reproduc$ z an illu/ration to ?is book4 ,! noise & du/1 z well z ! importunities ( ! inquisitive1 made me long = ! quiet & ! fre% air ( ! des]t4 ,a *ange ( "w & ( int]e/s n[ & aga9 is :olesome1 & %\ld b little "w be ! result ( my exp$ition1 ! int]e/ & ! fre% air w\ld comp5sate me = any loss ( "t4 ,we />t$ at midday by a tra9 :i* runs along ! edge ( ! ,libyan des]t1 j outside ! cultivation area1 & n f> f ! we/]n bank ( ! ,rosetta bran* ( ! ,nile4 ,?is is ! ,beh]a l9e1 & if any "o c\ld be f\nd ) suffici5t pati5ce1 he c\ld rea* ,alex&ria by "o ( its tra9s1 & cov] r less gr\nd ?an by ! ma9 r\te4 ,aft] a crawl along ! fr+e ( ! des]t = "s sev5ty miles 9 a nor?-we/]ly direction1 ! tra9 /rikes into ! ,delta1 & jo9s ! ma9 l9e at ,teh el-,b>d4 ,=tunately we c\ld leave x aft] a ?irty-mile crawl1 at a /ation call$ el-,khatatbeh4 ,we 7 met "h by ! ag5t ( ! ,salt & ,soda ,company1 & invit$ to wait 9 8 h\se until ! /eam-tram w\ld take u to ! re/-h\se4 ,?is runs twice a week1 & c>ries coal & o!r necess>ies to ! works4 ,:5 ! pass5g] c>riage _h be5 c\pl$ on to ! trucks1 we />t$ on ?is novel des]t j\rney4 ,!re seem$ some?+ s9i/] 9 ! "n ( our de/9ation--#8,! ,valley ( ,natron4' ,x lay 9 ! direction ( ! r$d5+ sky1 & seem$ someh[ to recall a valley ) :i* ,bunyan has made u famili>4 ,! #8,lacus ,asphaltites1' z classical atlases call ! ,dead ,sea1 is a "n :i* 9 a simil> way br\ght passages ( ! ,pilgrim's ,progress back to me1 :5 ye>s ago ,i took a j\rney to ,j]i*o4 ,! eng9e1 :i* pluckily dragg$ u into ! increas+ d>kness1 brea!d sp>ks ( fire into ! cl\ds ( smoke4 ,0 x ! my/]y ( ! des]t t got hold ( me8 ,! fire & smoke :i* snort$ f ! funnel ( ! little eng9e br\ght ,apollyon cle>ly back to my m9d4 ,i h pass$ mon?s on end 9 ! des]t1 & yet t awe :i* x inspires at sund[n nev] leaves me4 ,= ?ree h\rs we cont9u$ our c\rse ?r\gh ! dre>y wa/e4 ,a cresc5t moon reveal$ an int]m9able s]ies ( l[ s&-hills2 brok5 fl9ts caught its light & look$ l ! reflections ( ! />s on a bill[y sea4 ,?\gh our horizon 0 n a di/ant "o1 ! s5se t we might h cont9u$ 9 our pres5t direction = m ?an two ?\s& miles impress$ u ) ! imm5sity ( ! great ,sah>a4 ,! quick5$ pace ( our tra9 told u t we _h rea*$ ! depression :]e ! s]ies ( natron lakes lies4 ,be=e we came to a /&/ill my illusions _h vani%$ into ?9 air4 ,a smell ( cau/ic soda1 & ! sight ( ! works1 ( ! coal trucks1 ! %unt+ cab91 & z we got ne>]1 t ( ! m5 9 greasy ov]alls1 c>ri$ me away f ! ,sah>a1 & set me d[n ne> "s nor?-c\ntry manufactur+ village4 ,we 7 met by ! manag] ( ! re/-h\se1 & "s natives 7:o might h hail$ f ,w$nesbury f _! get-up7 %\ld]$ our luggage :ile we pick$ our way to a long "o-/ori$ build+ we c\ld see outl9$ aga9/ ! />lit sky4 ,x _h turn$ v cold1 z x (t5 does 9 ! des]t1 ev5 aft] a bak+ hot day4 ,i bless$ ! :ole ( ! ,salt & ,soda ,company1 ,limit$1 = hav+ provid$ a good /ove 9 ! re/-h\se sitt+-room1 & ,i p\r$ m bless+s on ! ,italian manag]1 :o soon ann\nc$ ! d9n]4 ,:at ) our long fa/ & ! ke5 des]t air1 we 7 able to d full ju/ice to ! padrone's ef=ts4 ,we ask$ him if he c\ld hire u donkeys to take u to ! conv5ts ! foll[+ morn+4 #8,leave x to me1' he said1 #8& y %all h !m at :atev] h\r y l4' ,we decid$ on half-pa/ sev51 & 7 promis$ t !y %\ld be !re to ! m9ute4 ,we 7 up ) ! l>k1 & ready to />t at ! appo9t$ "t2 b we might scan ! horizon & nev] a donkey c\ld we see1 & ! padrone 0 z invisible z ! donkeys he _h promis$4 ,aft] wait+ an h\r1 ,i propos$ our walk+ d[n to ! works to make inquiries4 ,among/ a numb] ( natives1 :o all knew no?+ ab\t donkeys--nev] seem$ to h he>d ( su* ?+s--,i notic$ a fell[-c\ntryman4 ,he 0 /irr+ a bubbl+1 oily-look+ liquid 9 a huge caldron4 #8,look out1 sir1' he cri$1 #8a drop ( ?is'll burn "r ?r\gh y\r clo!s1 & if y /ep on x1 y\r boots won't be wor? sixp5ce4' ,! pot be+ suffici5tly /irr$ & ! lid duly adju/$1 ! man /epp$ ov] to :]e ,i _h retreat$1 & seem$ pleas$ to be able to talk 9 8 own language aga94 ,he 0 a g5ial fell[1 & 0 prep>$ to tell me all ,i might wi% to "k ab\t natron4 ,i got on ! subject ( donkeys z soon z ,i c\ld1 & le>nt f him t ! only ?ree donkeys 7exclud+ ! padrone7 :i* ! company possess$1 7 probably d[n at ! salt-pits4 ,i expla9$ t ,i did n expect to use ! ,company's donkeys1 b und]/ood t we c\ld hire "s4 ,i !n le>nt t !re 7 none ne>] ?an el-,khatatbeh4 ,lat] on ! manag] ( ! works appe>$1 & ,i got ,jones to introduce me to him4 ,aft] ?ank+ him = lett+ me use ! re/-h\se1 ,i told him my difficulties4 ,all he c\ld d1 he k9dly told u1 w\ld be to s5d ! trolley to ! rail-head1 & f !nce we %\ld h to walk to ! conv5ts1 z no donkeys 7 available t day4 ,ibrahim1 my fri5d's s]vant1 put our lun* & mat]ials on to ! trolley1 & z soon z ! mule 0 h>ness$1 (f we w5t to ! rail-head4 ,a ?9 black l9e on my map ( ,nor!rn ,egypt is drawn f ! great ,sah>a1 ?r\gh ?is "p ( ! ,libyan des]t1 till x rea*es ,cairo4 ,x !n w9ds along ! valleys ( ! ,arabian des]t1 & disappe>s out ( ! map j nor? ( ,suez4 ,ab\t ! spot :]e our trolley n[ runs ! map describes ?is l9e z ,d]b el-,hagg el-,meghrbe1 t is1 ! #8,pilgrim's ,way ( ! ,we/]ns4' ,)9 a space ( tw5ty miles on ?is r\te /& f\r ,*ri/ian conv5ts1 two ( :i* we !n saw outl9$ aga9/ ! sky4 ,!y /ood !re be=e ?is des]t tract 0 fir/ us$ by ,moslem pilgrims on _! way to ,mekka2 & until ! ,beh]a railway 0 op5$1 ?is same track 0 foll[$ by ! monks on _! j\rney+s to & f ,cairo4 ,x 0 n an unfrequ5t$ r\te ev5 be=e ! e>ly ,*ri/ians settl$ "h4 ,! m9]al alkali1 :i* ^! m>%es produce1 0 kn[n & us$ :ile ,memphis 0 ! capital city ( ,egypt4 ,salt1 extract$ f ! poison\s-look+ m>%es bel[ u1 lay 9 hillocks on ea* side ( ! little tramway1 z we ne>$ its t]m9ation4 ,dur+ ! fir/ mile ( our tramp to ! ne>e/ conv5t ! gr\nd look$ z if x 7 cov]$ ) ho>-fro/4 ,x crackl$ "u our feet z w\ld ?9 ice1 & ,i long$ to rea* ! s&y pla9 on ! high] level4 ,! w9try appe>ance ( ?is un9vit+ tract ( l& contra/$ /rangely ) ! hot sun :i* beat d[n on u4 ,! s&y pla91 :5 we rea*$ x1 may h be5 pleasant to our eyes1 b x 0 inf9itely m tr\blesome to walk ov]4 ,we sank ankle deep at e /ep we took1 & ,i n[ realis$ :y ! #8,pilgrim's ,way' ran ?r\gh ! plague-/rick5-look+ /ret* :i* we _h cross$4 ,z we ne>$ our objective1 ! ,dr ,amba-,bi%ai1 x look$ m & m l a m$ival =tress ?an a retreat = ! religi\s4 ,its massive out] walls n[ mask$ ! little domes se5 f a great] di/ance4 ,hungry ,moslem pilgrims j\rney+ to ,mekka might h prov$ unwelcome visitors to ! h&ful ( ,gubti monks )91 & "s rec5t repairs ( ! walls 7 probably done m = security ?an f any s5se ( tid9ess4 ,! gateway 0 l>ge & impos+2 b ! door itself 0 small & suffici5tly recess$ to be def5d$ ?r\gh ! loopholes 9 ! project+ jambs4 ,we 7 glad to re/ 9 ! %ad[ ( ! walls till we manag$ to get admitt$ into ! conv5t4 ,repeat$ pulls at ! bell-rope seem$ to h no effect1 ?\gh ! noise broke viol5tly ! /illness ( ! des]t4 ,ibrahim !n pick$ up a big /one1 & us+ x z a batt]+-ram aga9/ ! door1 expla9$ t ! s\nd w\ld rea* fur!r ?an t ( ! bell :i* hung outside f ! wall4 ,8 ex]tions f9ally _h "s effect4 ,a %utt] 0 slid back f an iron grat+ 9 ! door1 & a voice call$ out1 #8,:o's !re8' ,we expla9$ our err& to ! man inside ) ! p]suasiv5ess ( ^? address+ "o 9 an advantage\s position4 ,! /upid face at ! grat+ _h no expression b t ( suspicion2 a slight look ( intellig5ce %[$ itself :5 ! ^w bak%ee% 0 :isp]$1 & we 7 told t ! ,prior mu/ fir/ be consult$4 ,! man return$ aft] a :ile1 & we he>d him remove a heavy /one f beh9d ! door4 ,heavy wood5 b>s _h !n to be unfa/5$1 & aft] sev]al attempts to unfa/5 ! lock1 ! old door creak$ back on its ru/y h+es4 ,an angul> passage1 ?r\gh ! squ>e t[] ( ! gateway1 l$ u into a spaci\s c\rt1 9 ! c5tre ( :i* /ood ! *ur* & ! mona/ic dwell+s4 ,mo/ ( ! latt] 7 9 a woeful /ate ( disrepair1 & 9 "s cases !y _h completely fall5 94 ,a well & a fig-tree1 z well z "s gre5 vegetables1 %[$ t ?is c\rt might h be5 made into a g>d54 ,?is 0 a pro( ( ! le?>gic /ate ( ! monks1 = ! ,egyptians z a rule w turn any gr\nd into a g>d5 if only wat] be available4 ,we 7 receiv$ by ! ,prior 9 a b>e & once :itewa%$ room1 ) a wood5 b5* r\nd ! walls4 ,aft] ! usual salutations1 he ord]$ c(fee1 & ev5 produc$ cig>ettes2 b argue z long z we lik$1 he w\ld n give u p]mission to sket* 9 ! conv5t4 ,! p]mission my fri5d _h got1 f ! ,patri>* 9 ,cairo1 m5tion$ ! o!r conv5ts1 & n ! "o we 7 92 we %\ld be all[$ to see ! *ur*1 b no sket*+ 0 to be done4 ,z ,jones _h work$ "h dur+ ! previ\s w9t] ) a p]mit f ! ,patri>*1 & _h requir$ ladd]s & o!r help to d 8 measur+ up1 he did n ?9k x necess>y to get an au?orisation m]ely to make a few sket*es at pres5t4 ,i suspect$ ill-w m ?an m]e /ickl+ ab\t ^! =malities 0 ! cause ( ?is1 s ,i propos$ t we %\ld h a look at ! *ur*1 & !n g (f to ! neighb\r+ conv5t4 ,! mo/ aggravat+ "p 0 t ! little *ur* 0 picturesque 9 ! extreme4 ,its :itewa%$ walls & vault$ ro( emphasis$ ! ri* col\r+ ( ! primitive alt>4 ,i h be5 9 ! inn] sanctu>ies ( wellnigh e ,egyptian temple1 & h ent]$ mo/ ( ! mosques ( ,cairo2 b nev] _h ,i be5 m impress$ ) ! s5tim5t ( any ?an ) t ( ?is rude place ( ,*ri/ian wor%ip4 ,i long$ to sit d[n & pa9t x2 no #8treatm5t' w\ld be requir$1 = ! composition 0 p]fect4 ,%\ld ,i g back & (f] ! ,prior a bak%ee%8 ,i ev5 m$itat$ on h[1 #8to save 8 face1' ,i might pret5d x 0 = ! upkeep ( ! *apel4 ,on ,jones sugge/+ t ! *ur* 9 ! o!r conv5t might suit my purpose z well1 we decid$ to take our dep>ture4 ,we 7 told t ! c(fee 0 n[ ready = u1 & 7 ask$ to return to ! p>l\r4 ,my irritation at n be+ all[$ to pa9t 0 increas$ by ! fleas :i* _h got at my ankles1 & ,i nei!r wi%$ to see ! ,prior aga9 nor t\* 8 c(fee4 ,?\gh ,ibrahim _h ! ,moslem's poor op9ion ( ! ,copts1 he implor$ me n to refuse ! c(fee1 z x w\ld be su* an insult to ! :ole conv5t4 ,ibrahim did n want to pa9t1 & he 0 probably less s5sitive ?an ,i to ! fleas1 s he c\ld view ! matt] 9 a calm] frame ( m9d4 ,i saw1 h[ev]1 t he 0 "r1 s we w5t & sipp$ our c(fee1 made our salaams to ! ,prior1 tipp$ ! tatt]demalion ( a lay-bro!r :o _h let u 91 & 7 once m 9 ! outside _w4 ,:ile writ+ ^! l9es1 & miss+ ! accompany+ illu/ration ( ! *apel :i* might h fitt$ 9 s well "h1 ,i feel mean = hav+ drunk t c(fee4 ,x took u less "t to ga9 admittance to ! next conv5t1 :i* 0 sep>at$ f its neighb\r by ab\t a qu>t] ( a mile4 ,its outw>d appe>ance 0 mu* ! same z ! o!r1 x hav+ be5 built ab\t ! same p]iod & "u ! same conditions4 ,! dwell+s & *ur* also =m$ a gr\p 9 ! c5tre ( ! enclosure1 & ?\gh some:at diff]5t 9 plan1 x _h nev]!less mu* ! same "*4 ,a spread+ sycamore-tree1 ) a goat & "o or two %eep ly+ 9 its %ade1 gave ! place a less dead-alive look ?an _h its neighb\r1 ?\gh ! same signs ( neglect & decay 7 visible ev]y:]e4 ,z we turn$ ! angle ( ! ma9 build+1 an expression ( disgu/ escap$ my fri5d4 ,:at we saw 0 disgu/+ en\gh1 b n q suffici5tly s to acc\nt = my fri5d's expression1 z he is ! lea/ demon/rative ( m54 ,a new erection betwe5 two w+s ( ! e>li] "w _h be5 run up by "s build] ^: ar*itectural ta/e 0 ( ! caf *antant ord]4 ,x 0 already 9 a /ate ( disrepair1 :i* fail$ to give x a look ( respectable age1 b 0 m]ely a sign ( bad mat]ial & /ill worse workman%ip4 ,i told ,jones :at a pity x 0 t !y _h n ask$ him to design some?+ :i* w\ld h be5 9 keep+ ) ! re/ ( ! conv5t1 & ,i 0 answ]$ t n only _h he done s1 b t he _h also gone c>efully into ! co/ ( ! build+1 & _h giv5 !m 8 s]vices = no?+4 ,:at _h be5 run up dur+ ! prec$+ summ] mu/ h co/ m ?an if 8 designs _h be5 c>ri$ out1 = workm5 mu/ h be5 got f ,cairo to d ! tawdry ornam5tation4 ,we 7 %[n into ?is place1 ) a c]ta9 am\nt ( pride1 by ! monk :o conduct$ u4 ,! ,prior 0 hav+ 8 po/-pr&ial sleep1 & we 7 ask$ to make ourselves at home till he came to receive u4 ,we begg$ t he might n be di/urb$ j yet1 & ask$ to be all[$ to h our lun* 9 ! meantime4 ,x 0 n[ ab\t two o'clock1 & our breakfa/ 9 ! e>ly dawn seem$ a long way (f4 ,we _h a h5 & a brood ( *icks z company 9 ?is new reception-room4 ,! h5 seem$ to appreciate ! samples ( our lun* :i* fell h] way1 & h] cluck+ br\ght m p\ltry to jo9 ! company4 ,! monk appe>$ q indiff]5t to ! mess !y made1 & he squatt$ on ! floor & conv]s$ ) ,ibrahim4 ,he w\ld n jo9 u 9 our food1 b he will+ly help$ u ) a bottle ( w9e we _h br\ght4 ,be=e we _h f9i%$1 a v old man %uffl$ into ! room f a neighb\r+ ap>tm5t1 & mutt]$ "s greet+4 ,we rose to meet him & to expla9 our err&4 ,jones tri$ to recall to 8 m9d ! days he _h sp5t !re dur+ ! previ\s w9t]2 b :e!r ! old man _h any recollection ( ?is or n 8 blank expression did n reveal4 ,he wore a br[n wooll5 habit1 su* z ! fir/ ,*ri/ians :o settl$ "h w\ld h worn1 & a great r5t 9 ! g>m5t %[$ t ?is 0 all he _h on4 ,he did n wi% to see ! ,patri>*'s au?orisation = u to "w "h2 all ?+s p]ta9+ to ?is _w seem$ indiff]5t to him4 ,he gave a %iv] z if he felt ! air pass+ ?r\gh ! r5t 9 8 g>m5t1 & %uffl$ out to sit on ! door/eps 9 ! sun4 ,i made signs to ,ibrahim to get a _s-flask f out ! basket & (f] "s to ! old man1 :o me*anically accept$ x1 & drank x d[n4 ,?is seem$ to revive him a little1 & he pass$ ! cup to h x refill$4 ,ibrahim gave him a second dose1 & ask$ him 8 age4 ,n gett+ an answ] t we c\ld und]/&1 ! second monk told u t he mu/ be m ?an a hundr$ ye>s old4 ,! poor old man look$ x1 & t 0 probably ! only data :i* ! o!r monk _h4 ,! *ur* 0 v int]e/+1 & a m important /ructure ?an ! previ\s "o2 b s dimly light$ t we _h to wait till our eyes got us$ to ! gloom be=e we c\ld di/+ui% any?+4 ,two or ?ree m9ute w9d[s 9 ! vault+ admitt$ ! only light4 ,z our eyes got us$ to ! gloom1 ! dilapidat$ condition ( ev]y?+ became m noticeable2 "s grease m>ks on ! floor1 b5ea? ! few hang+ lamps1 seem$ all ! evid5ce ( ! place hav+ be5 us$ 9 rec5t times4 ,i />t$ a draw+ ( an int]e/+ subject1 "o :i* might h consol$ me = my disappo9tm5t 9 ! o!r conv5t _h ,i be5 able to see m cle>ly :at ,i 0 ab\t4 ,! heykel1 :i* corresponds to a *ancel1 0 n "h divid$ f ! nave by ! wood5 scre5 common to mo/ ,coptic *ur*es1 b by a wall rea*+ to ! vault$ ro(4 ,a high doorway 0 9 ! c5tre surm\nt$ by a wood5 grat+1 ?r\gh :i* we c\ld trace ! outl9es ( ! ,coptic cross1 & a curta91 z is usual1 hung 9 ! place ( ! door itself4 ,a massive dress] /ood to ! left ( ! doorway1 & a lect]n slightly to ! "r4 ,rude ,byzant9e pa9t+s hung f ! top ( ! dress]1 & an ikon ( ! ,virg9 & ,*ild 0 fix$ above ! curta94 ,! aft]noon be+ f> advanc$1 ,i hop$ ,i might d bett]1 ) m light1 on ! foll[+ morn+4 ,x 0 a long we>y tramp we _h back to ! re/-h\se1 = no trolley await$ u at ! rail-head1 9 spite ( ! mo/ solemn promises t x %\ld be !re4 ,we 7 m =tunate ! next day1 z ! donkeys 7 k9dly l5t u1 & we 7 able to be back at ! conv5t 9 fairly good "t4 ,?\gh ,i 0 9 ! *ur* ne>ly ! :ole day1 ,i witness$ no s]vice1 & rem>k+ on ?is to ,jones1 he told me t dur+ ! weeks he _h work$ !re he c\ld nev] rememb] "o hav+ tak5 place4 ,:at on e>? _h ! eight o!r monks :o resid$ "h to d8 ,!y 7 suppli$ ) corn & beans by ! *>ity ( o!rs1 & all initiative to d any?+ = !mselves seem$ to h left !m dur+ _! le?>gic exi/5ce4 ,possibly1 :5 ! du/ ( ! old ,prior w h return$ to ! du/ ( ! des]t ar\nd him1 "s "o y\ng] & m en]getic may put "s life into ! ,sleepy ,holl[4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,! ,,mosque ,,( ,,es-,,salih ,,talai ,i return$ to ,cairo little ! ri*] 9 arti/ic mat]ial1 b feel+ mu* ! bett] = ! few days ( des]t air4 ,?\gh ,cairo /&s on ! fr+e ( a des]t1 ! ?ree-qu>t]s ( a million ( its inhabitants are b\nd to vitiate its air1 & !y h c]ta9ly pollut$ its soil4 ,no dra9age sy/em z yet c>ries (f ! sewage f ! ma9 "p ( ! native city1 :]e ! du/ is (t5 laid by ! slops empti$ on ! roadway4 ,x is true t ! ,tanzm employs a l>ge numb] ( scav5g]s2 b _! ef=ts are *iefly conf9$ to ! mod]n qu>t]s1 :]e !re is "s hope ( deal+ ) s difficult a task4 ,! ,arab's ideas z to road-clean+1 :5 he is left to himself1 is to sweep ! du/ ab\t r ?an to cle> x away2 ! scav5g] is !re=e ! greate/ nuisance ( all ! nuisances ! sket*] has to cont5d )4 ,:5 tak5 unaw>es1 a sweep f "o ( ^! idiots' brooms may cov] ) du/ y\r draw+ & y\r pallet be=e y c /op him or get out ( 8 way4 ,7 x n = ! sun1 :i* /]ilises ?is du/1 a l>ge population c\ld nev] h exi/$ "h4 ,illu/ration3 ,,arab ,,s*ool ,cairo is unpa9table dur+ ! few grey days ( midw9t]1 & p]haps ?is is j z well1 = :5 ! ,great ,g]micide does n %9e1 ! place mu/ be v unheal?y4 ,an ov]ca/ sky (t5 drove me into ! mosques1 :]e ,i c\ld sp5d my "t 9 draw+ my subject1 until ! w>m reflections f ! sunlit c\rt %\ld make me feel in/9ctively = my pallet4 ,i flatt]$ myself t few nooks & corn]s exi/$ 9 ! old city :i* ,i _h n explor$1 till ,i turn$ up a n>r[ lane outside ! ,bab ,zaweyla & f\nd myself 9 ! ru9\s c\rt ( a delightful old mosque4 ,x is extraord9>y t ,i %\ld h ov]look$ ?is dur+ ! _m seasons ,i h sp5t 9 ,cairo4 ,! lane is call$ ,h>et es-,salih1 & ! mosque s]vant in=m$ me t ?is 0 ! mosque ( ,salih4 ,:o ?is ,salih might be 0 m ?an ! s]vant c\ld tell--he _h n be5 !re m ?an tw5ty ye>s--%\ld x be a mosque call$ aft] ! f\nd] ( ! mameluke dyna/y1 its date c\ld n be e>li] ?an ! middle ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,!re is mu* rema9+ :i* sugge/s an e>li] p]iod1 bo? 9 ! plan & 9 ! con/ruction ( ! ar*es2 ! foliat$ backgr\nd1 to ! ,kufic lett]+ :i* decorates ^! ar*es1 seem$ h>dly 9 keep+ ) ! "w ( ! or?odox ,moslems :o succe$$ ! ,ftimid dyna/y4 ,i look$ up all ! ,salihs :o crop up 9 ,/anley ,lane-,poole's ,/ory ( ,cairo--a h&y little volume1 publi%$ by ,messrs4 ,d5t & ,co41 :i* no visitor to ,egypt %\ld fail to get--& ,i succe$$ 9 plac+ him z ,tali ibn-,russik1 :o on 8 accession to p[] /yl$ himself el-,melik es-,slih4 ,he 0 ! la/ b "o ( ! ,ftimid khalifs1 & he built ?is mosque 9 #aafj1 ! six? ye> ( 8 reign4 ,!re is little n[ rema9+ ( all t 0 built 9 ! enclosure :i* ,ga:> pegg$ out z ! site ( el-,mo'izz's #8gu>d$ city'2 ! small mosque1 el-,akm>1 happily /ill exi/s & enables /ud5ts to /udy ! less re/rict$ =ms ( decoration :i* ! ,%eea h]esy p]mits4 ,! b\nd>ies ( el-,kahira 7 consid]ably ext5d$ dur+ ! two c5turies ( ,ftimid rule2 ! ?ree great gates & ,hakim's mosque rema9 z specim5s ( ! "w ( t p]iod1 & !y also m>k ! limits ( ! ext5d$ city4 ,x 0 outside ! walls ( ! ,cairo ( ^? days :]e ,tali ibn-,russik built 8 mosque1 & x rema9$ = ,salad91 :o succe$$ ! ,ftimid khalifs1 to yet fur!r enclose & br+ ?is mosque well )9 ! walls ( 8 enl>g$ capital4 ,! entrance is ?r\gh a gateway support+ ! m9>et1 :i* latt] is probably ( a lat] p]iod ?an ! re/ ( ! build+4 ,! colonnade1 :i* surr\nd$ ?ree sides ( ! squ>e c\rt1 has almo/ disappe>$1 z well z p>ts ( ! enclos+ wall4 ,! liwn1 :i* is ! subject ( ! accompany+ illu/ration1 is /ill intact4 ,kept suffici5tly 9 repair s z to prev5t its fall+ d[n1 x has nev] suff]$ ! h& ( ! r5ovator to sweep out e trace ( ! mell[+ influ5ce ( ne> eight c5turies ( use4 ,an ugly wood5 f5ce enclos$ x f ! c\rt1 b ,i 0 able to see en\gh ?r\gh ! pal+s to pa9t x z if ?is disfigurem5t 7 n !re4 ,! c\rt is on a high] level to ! liwn ow+ to ! accumulation ( rubbi% :i* has n be5 cle>$ away1 & ?is acc\nts = ! high horizon 9 ! picture4 ,x also enabl$ me to see less ( ! exasp]at+ f5ce4 ,?\gh /ill us$ z a place ( wor%ip on ,fridays1 x s]ves z a s*ool dur+ ! re/ ( ! week4 ,! "y /ud5ts squatt+ on ! matt+ & committ+ to memory v]ses ( ! ,koran =m picturesque gr\ps1 & ! little cr[d ar\nd ! ro/rum ( ! tea*] c5tralises ! subject4 ,! sc5es are on a small] scale ?an ^? :i* may be witness$ any day at ! ,azh>1 or ,univ]sity ,mosque4 ,! latt] has be5 s ov]-re/or$1 & n always 9 a judici\s mann]1 t ,i h nev] be5 tempt$ to pa9t !re4 ,! /ud5ts "h are mo/ly lads1 & are ei!r prep>+ = ! univ]sity or are ! *ildr5 ( p>5ts :o may n approve ( ! mod]nis$ =m ( in/ruction at ! ,kh$ivial s*ools4 ,z 9 all purely ,arab s*ools1 ! tra9+ is almo/ entirely conf9$ to ex]cis+ ! memory r ?an ! developm5t ( ! reason+ faculties4 ,x is (t5 q suffici5t qualification = a tea*] to "k 8 ,koran by he>t1 s t he c detect any mi/akes 9 ! v]ses :i* he he>s 8 s*ol>s repeat4 ,z e lad repeats al\d :at he tries to le>n by he>t1 ! noise is easily imag9$4 ,!re seems little re/ra9t2 ! lads nibble at _! lun* or buy dr9ks f ! lemonade-sell] :5 x pleases !m2 ^? to :om ! tea*]'s back is turn$ may indulge _! lik+ = mankalah or any o!r games easily secret$ "u _! cloaks2 & _h x n be5 = ! p[]ful lungs ( ,mansoor1 mo/ ( ! s*ol>s w\ld h tak5 up a position ar\nd my easel4 ,:5 ! cl\ds disp]s$ & ! fur!r angle ( ! c\rt =m$ a w>m sun pocket1 ! great] numb] w\ld leave ! liwn & repeat _! v]ses 9 ! w>m?4 ,mansoor's "w ( keep+ ! lads away f me !n became m ardu\s4 ,he f\nd an ally 9 ! mosque s]vant1 & :5 g5tle p]suasion fail$ m dra/ic measures 7 us$4 ,! noise 9 ! c\rt did n 9 ! lea/ seem to di/urb ! good-natur$ tea*]1 & :5 he left 8 ro/rum he w\ld come & h a look at ! "w ,i 0 do+4 ,i came "h _m times1 = n only did ! draw+ & detail ( ?is subject take up sev]al long morn+s1 b ,i _h a second "o on h& ( :i* ^! lads 9 ! sun made ! =egr\nd4 ,t !y %\ld be curi\s to see :at ,i _h made ( !m 0 natural en\gh1 s ,i gave !m an opportunity ( satisfy+ _! curiosity be=e ,i pack$ up to g4 ,9 sket*+ a gr\p ( figures :i* is con/antly on ! move1 ! head ( "o may be sugge/$ on ! body ( ano!r :o may h mov$ away4 ,?is seem$ to p]plex my spectators consid]ably4 ,:5 ,ahm$ _h id5tifi$ 8 kuftan or galabieh1 ,seleem w\ld po9t out ! head z belong+ to himself4 ,a good />e at me to see if any signs ( ! evil "o 7 visible w\ld foll[3 if "s afri't _h n assi/$ me 9 ?is uncanny "w1 h[ else 0 x to be expla9$4 ,z morn+s begun 9 sun%9e may turn to grey 9 w9t]1 or ! o!r way ab\t1 my hav+ two good subjects 9 ! same place 0 a great advantage1 = ?\gh a reflect$ sunlight improv$ my liwn1 ,i c\ld nev]!less f9d pl5ty ( detail to draw :ile ! sky 0 ov]ca/4 #8,good graci\s6' x actually ra9$ "o morn+1 & ) my draw+s ,i jo9$ 9 ! ru% = %elt] "u ! ar*es4 ,volunte]s to c>ry my belong+s 7 num]\s1 b ,mansoor w\ld only all[ "s privileg$ y\ng/] to c>ry my /ool4 ,! tea*] w\ld drone out ! v]ses ( ! ,f?ah q reg>dless ( ! di/urbance4 ,! pr(ession ( a fikee is1 ,i am told1 n a lucrative "o4 ,a half-pia/re1 i4e4 five f>?+s1 p] week p] pupil us$ to be 8 e>n+s1 ?\gh ?is may h increas$ slightly ) ! g5]al increase ( wages4 ,if we consid] 8 intellectual equipm5t & comp>e x ) t ( a s*oolma/] at home1 x is possible t ! pay ( ! fikee may comp>e v fav\rably4 ,!y (t5 eke out ?is mis]able pittance by read+ a *apt] ( ! ,koran 9 ! h\ses ( ! well-to-d4 ,"o rec5tly #8kill$ two birds ) "o /one' by pos+ z a model to me1 :ile he also repeat$ ! ,f?ah1 outside ! entrance to a h>eem4 ,i am afraid t "s giggl+1 :i* ,i c\ld he> ?r\gh ! mu%rbiyeh1 may h be5 caus$ by my attempt at portraiture4 ,i turn$ my easel t[>ds ! wood5 grat+ to satisfy a legitimate curiosity :i* might possibly h be5 excit$ 9 ! #8prohibit$ place4' ,! giggles develop$ into l\d laught]4 ,i r fanci$ my sket*1 &1 9 spite ( ?is unfav\rable criticism1 ,i /ill fail to see any?+ funny 9 x4 ,! fikee turn$ out to be z big a fraud z mo/ ( ! natives :om ,i h induc$ to pose to me4 ,! value ( "t becomes enorm\s to any loaf] :o poses = an h\r1 &1 accord+ to ?is fikee1 x might h be5 z valuable z t ( a ,h>ley ,/reet speciali/4 ,"s fem99e je]s1 he>d ?r\gh ! mu%rbiyeh1 ha/5$ 8 dep>ture4 ,accord+ to ,lane ! s*oolma/]s 9 ,egypt are mo/ly p]sons ( v little le>n+2 few are acqua9t$ ) any writ+s except ! ,koran & c]ta9 pray]s1 :i*1 z well z ! cont5ts ( ! sacr$ volume1 !y are hir$ to recite on p>ticul> occasions4 ,x is fair to say t ! ,egypt ( ,lane is ! ,egypt ( full sev5ty ye>s ago4 ,"u ! advis]%ip ( ,mr4 ,dunlop & 8 /aff ( able s*ool-inspectors1 a s\nd education on enlight5$ l9es is n[ obta9able ev5 9 ! smalle/ t[ns = ! *ildr5 ^: p>5ts c or w af=d ! fees ( ! ,kh$ivial s*ools4 ,b ! kuttb1 z ! poor] & purely ,mohamm$an s*ools are call$1 seem to h drift$ into a backwat]1 & are little influ5c$ by ! /ream ( enlight5m5t :i* fl[s pa/ !m4 ,! /ory ,lane tells ( a fikee ( 8 "t might /ill apply to pres5t-day tea*]s 9 "s ( ! villages1 & may be wor? repeat+ "h3 #8,i 0 lately told ( a man :o c\ld nei!r read nor write succe$+ to ! (fice ( a s*oolma/] 9 my neighb\rhood4 ,be+ able to recite ! :ole ( ! ,koran1 he c\ld he> ! boys repeat _! lessons2 to write !m1 he employ$ ! areef 7or head-boy & monitor ( ! s*ool71 pret5d+ t 8 eyes are weak4 ,a few days aft] he _h tak5 ^u himself ?is (fice1 a poor woman br\ght a lett] = him to read to h] f h] son1 :o _h gone on pilgrimage4 ,! fikee pret5d$ to read x1 b said no?+2 & ! woman1 inf]r+ f 8 sil5ce t ! lett] conta9$ bad news1 said to him1 8,%all ,i %riek80 ,he answ]$1 8,yes40 8,%all ,i te> my clo!s80 %e ask$2 he repli$1 8,yes40 ,s ! poor woman return$ to h] h\se1 & ) h] assembl$ fri5ds p]=m$ ! lam5tation & o!r c]emonies usual on ! occasion ( a dea?4 ,n _m days aft] ?is h] son arriv$1 & %e ask$ him :at he c\ld mean by caus+ a lett] to be writt5 /at+ t he 0 dead8 ,he expla9$ ! cont5ts ( ! lett]1 & %e w5t to ! s*oolma/] & begg$ him to in=m h] :y he _h told h] to %riek & te> h] clo!s1 s9ce ! lett] 0 to in=m h] t h] son 0 well1 & he 0 n[ arriv$ at home4 ,n at all aba%$1 he said1 8,god kn[s futurity4 ,h[ c\ld ,i "k t y\r son w\ld arrive 9 safety8 ,x is bett] t y %\ld ?9k him dead ?an to be l$ to expect to see him & p]haps be disappo9t$40 ,"s p]sons :o 7 sitt+ ) him prais$ 8 wisdom1 exclaim+1 8,truly1 our new fikee is a man ( judgm5t60 & = a little :ile he f\nd t he _h rais$ 8 reputation by ?is blund]4' ,i mu/ refra9 f quot+ f t fund ( k1 ,lane's ,mann]s & ,cu/oms ( ! ,mod]n ,egyptians1 = s9ce x has be5 s ably edit$ by ,mr4 ,erne/ ,rhys1 x has be5 plac$ )9 ! rea* ( e "o by ,messrs4 ,d5t 9 ! #8,ev]yman's ,libr>y' s]ies4 ,z my view ( ! mosque is f ! c\rt1 !re 0 no objection to my pa9t+ !re dur+ ! duhr or midday s]vice on ,fridays4 ,i 0 mu* tempt$ to make t my subject1 b ,i refra9$ f do+ s1 z ,i h done t subject once or twice be=e4 ,! ritual has become m famili> to me1 & ,i 0 able to foll[ bett] :at 0 go+ on4 ,! mosque s]vant1 :o (t5 help$ my man to keep (f ! boys dur+ ! week-days1 increas$ 9 importance on ,fridays 7:i*1 ,i ne$ h>dly in=m my read]s1 correspond to our ,sundays74 ,half an h\r be=e noon ! mu$d9 asc5ds ! m9>et & *ants ! selm f "o ( ! balconies4 ,?is is n ! adn or ord9>y call to pray]1 b a salutation to ! ,prophet1 ! adn be+ call$ a little aft] ! noon4 ,! wor%ipp]s soon arrive1 = !re are ! ablutions to be p]=m$ be=e !y take _! seats 9 ! liwn4 ,a read]1 9 ! mean:ile1 asc5ds ! ro/rum fac+ ! pray]-ni*e or mirhab1 & beg9s recit+ ! #8,soorat el-,kahf1' :i* is "o ( ! *apt]s 9 ! ,koran4 ,ea* wor%ipp] drops 8 slipp]s be=e he /eps on to ! matt+1 & places !m sole to sole next to :]e he sits d[n4 ,he p]=ms two pro/rations & !n sits pati5tly till ! adn is call$ f ! m9>et1 :5 ! recitation ( ! soorat ceases4 ,dur+ ?is call ! :ole congregation1 :i* faces ! pray]-ni*e1 kneels in/ead ( sitt+ cross-legg$ z hi!rto4 ,on ! la/ syllable ( ! adn e man rises &1 hold+ 8 h&s1 palm outw>ds1 close to 8 e>s1 he repeats ! #8,allahu ,akb>' :i* has desc5d$ f ! m9>et4 ,he !n makes ! v>i\s pro/rations ( ! rekah1 repeat+ ! same words at ea* diff]5t po/ure1 & concludes ) ! salutations to ! ,prophet4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,blue ,,mosque ,! murakkee 7:o 0 no o!r ?an ! mosque s]vant & my ally ( ! c\rty>d7 !n proce$$ to op5 ! fold+-doors ( ! pulpit1 & took a wood5 sword f beh9d !m1 & hold+ x ) its po9t to ! gr\nd1 he also repeat$ ! salutation4 ,f a rais$ plat=m 7kn[n z ! dikkeh1 & /&+ at ! entrance to ! liwn7 an (ficiant n[ *ants ! praises ( ,mohamm$4 ,! s]vant !n recites ea* v]se ( ! adn1 & !y are repeat$ 9 a sonor\s voice by ! man on ! dikkeh4 ,dur+ ?is ! khateeb1 z ! prea*] is call$1 advances to ! pulpit1 & tak+ ! sword f ! murakkee1 he sl[ly asc5ds ! /eps1 & rea*+ ! top "o1 he waits till ! recital is conclud$4 ,! prea*] /&s1 hold+ ! sword po9t d[nw>ds1 & deliv]s 8 address 9 a solemn & effective mann] to 8 congregation1 :o sit rapt 9 att5tion4 ,no special ve/m5ts are worn by ^? :o (ficiate1 & ! ord9>y robes ( a %eykh seem p]fectly appropriate4 ,! sword1 ! only object us$ 9 ! simple ritual1 is to rem9d ! he>]s t ,islam 0 spread by ! sword & t by its p[] x %\ld1 if necess>y1 /ill be ma9ta9$4 ,little outw>d rev]5ce is %[n to ! mosque1 z su*1 at ord9>y times1 = ,i h se5 x us$ z a conv5i5t place to sleep 9 dur+ ! heat ( ! day1 & ! play+ among/ its columns ( lads dur+ ! int]vals ( _! tasks /rikes no "o z unseemly behavi\r4 ,b at ! call to pray] ! demean\r ( all pres5t is /rik+ly rev]5t4 ,i h work$ 9 a great numb] ( mosques & mu/ h se5 ?\s&s ( m5 att5d+ ! s]vices1 b ,i don't recall hav+ se5 half a doz5 wor%ipp]s 9 any o!r b ! native dress4 ,n[ t all ! y\? ( ! c\ntry1 :o att5d ! ,kh$ivial s*ools or h ( late ye>s pass$ ?r\gh _! classes1 adopt ! ,european g>b2 t ! num]\s employees 9 ! gov]nm5t & o!r (fices h all =sak5 ! native dress--is x n /range t a tr\s]$ ,moslem %\ld h>dly ev] be se5 inside a mosque unless he goes !re m]ely z a spectator8 ,! eff5di1 a title loosely giv5 to e native 9 ,european dress & t>b\*1 feels1 ,i'm sure1 ill at ease among/ 8 co-religioni/s :5 ! s]vices ( 8 religion are be+ held4 ,! dev\t ,moslem views ! we/]n g>b z #8a m>k ( ! ,bea/4' ,?is is felt s /rongly 9 ,morocco1 t %\ld a ,moor appe> 9 coat & tr\s]s1 8 co-religioni/s w\ld te> !m (f him4 ,! enc\ragem5t giv5 9 ,egypt to ! adoption ( we/]n clo!s is a fatal mi/ake4 ,! c\rte\s mann]s ( ! ori5tal seem to leave him ) 8 ca/-(f kuftn2 8 morals are di/9ctly worse :5 ! ties ( 8 cre$ are loos5$2 & ! ,*ri/ian mission>y kn[s well en\gh t ! we/]nis$ ,egyptian is n a f]tile soil = ! ,gospel se$4 ,we mu/ n flatt] ourselves t our hold on ,egypt is 9 any way /r5g!n$ by ?is silly fa%ion2 we h only to att5d a nationali/ demon/ration to see h[ ! tr\s]$ eff5di out-numb]s ! rob$ ,egyptian4 ,%\ld ! sword ( ! prea*] unhappily be held al(t & a holy w> proclaim$ f e pulpit1 ?is ,european v5e] w\ld vani% l smoke1 & ! eff5di w\ld rev]t to ! g>b ( ! %eykh4 ,dur+ my fir/ season 9 ,egypt ,i pa9t$ a cr[d ( "y /ud5ts at ! entrance ( "o ( ! ,kh$ivial s*ools4 ,! lads 7 all rob$ & turban$1 & :atev] _! social positions may h be51 ea* individual look$ a dignifi$ "y g5tleman4 ,:5 next ,i visit$ ,cairo all ?is 0 *ang$4 ,! kuftn & ! gibbeh 7 replac$ by sweat$ tailor goods f "s ,greek dep>tm5tal /ores4 ,i felt a p]sonal dislike to ! :ole education dep>tm5t1 & especially to ! ,briti% ,advis]4 ,i am glad to add t ,i h s9ce le>nt t our c\ntrym5 _h no?+ to d ) x4 ,x 0 ! ,egyptian (ficials :o inaugurat$ ! *ange4 ,education has made su* advances s9ce ! ,briti% occupation1 ?r\gh ! ef=ts ( a h>d-work+ & c]ta9ly n ov]paid ,briti% /aff1 t ,i am glad to "k t ,i 0 n ju/ifi$ 9 attribut+ to x s fooli% a blund]4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,! ,,blue ,,mosque ,,& ,,kasr-,,e%-,,%ema ,i h nev] pass$ a season 9 ,cairo )\t mak+ a /udy ( "s sort 9 ! ,blue ,mosque4 ,!re are _m mosques ( mu* great] ar*itectural pret5sions1 z well z ( m hi/orical int]e/2 b s long z arti/s cont9ue to flock to ,egypt 9 se>* ( subjects1 s long w ! ,blue ,mosque s]ve !m = mat]ial4 ,on ent]+ ! blue-til$ liwn aft] a tramp ?r\gh ! gl>e & ! du/ ( ! op5 spaces ar\nd ! citadel1 some?+ ( ! pleasure is exp]i5c$ ( him :o1 aft] a des]t j\rney1 fir/ re/s 8 eyes on ! gre5 ( cultivation4 ,! pleasure is z mu* a physical z an intellectual "o1 = ! hot season draws "o !re f> m ?an does ! cold4 ,! temp]ature w\ld be no high] 7 ! walls a sc>let1 b ,i'm sure x w\ld be m felt2 & ?is is n only s to ^? ^: tra9+ incl9es !m to se>* out beautiful col\r1 = ,i h obs]v$ t m p come "h to sleep ?r\gh ! heat ( ! day ?an to any o!r mosque4 ,! actual /ructure 0 rais$ by a c]ta9 ,aksunkur dur+ ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 & _m mu* f9] mosques ( t p]iod are /ill rema9+4 ,x 0 re/or$ m ?an ?ree c5turies lat] by ,ibrahim ,agha1 &1 :atev] ! puri/ may h to say to ! contr>y1 x is ^! re/orations :i* give ! *>m to ! place4 ,blue tiles cov] ! :ole wall ( ! va/ liwn2 f ! matt$ pavem5t to ! spr+ ( ! vault+ !y spread ar\nd ! pray]-ni*e till1 high up1 !y rea* ! ribb+ ( ! dome4 ,?is 0 a great und]tak+ ( ,ibrahim ,agha1 = ?\gh ! tiles 7 n wor? ! fancy prices ( ! pres5t day1 x mu/ h be5 a v co/ly affair ev5 9 8 "t4 ,! dom$ *apel1 conta9+ ! tomb ( ! f\nd]1 is m beautiful /ill1 b x is almo/ too d>k to make pa9t+ a possibility4 ,! look ( neglect & g5tle decay is n depress+1 z 9 _m a ,cair5e build+ :i* lies "u ! s5t5ce ( complete r5ovation or ( a total collapse4 ,"s /ructural repairs h lately be5 made1 :i* 7 d\btless badly ne$$2 b ,i hope x may /op at t4 ,! ,moslem has all he wants n[ = 8 frequ5t pray]s or 8 midday nap1 & no r5ovation ( ! mosque w\ld ev] comp5sate = ! loss ( its pres5t *>m4 ,! mosques ( ,cairo c be an endless s\rce ( in/ruction to any "o int]e/$ 9 ! build]'s art1 _! numb] is s great 7ov] f\r hundr$7 & !y are s v>i$ 9 "*2 !y suit _! surr\nd+s z if !y _h gr[n into ! spaces !y occupy1 & ^? :o wor%ip !re look z if !y _h be5 gr[n = t purpose4 ,int]e/+ z are ! temples ( anci5t ,egypt1 !y h n ! human int]e/ ( ! ,cair5e mosques4 ,old & decrepit z ! latt] may be1 ! beauty ( life is /ill !re2 ! temple at its be/ has b ! beauty ( a corpse4 ,! re/oration ( ! mosques1 if well done1 z happily is (t5 ! case "h1 may rob !m ( "s tempor>y *>m1 b x pres]ves to ! p a valuable h]itage2 :]eas ! re/or$ temples w m]ely give future g5]ations some?+ to laugh at4 ,:at temple is gr&] ?an ,tuln's mosque8 ,or 9 :i* ( !m did ! build]'s art excel t ( ! ,sultan ,hassan8 ,yet h[ few visit ^! mosques comp>$ ) ! cr[ds :o are ru%$ ?r\gh ! temples ( ,upp] ,egypt4 ,! "o ( all o!rs :i* e t\ri/ is tak5 to see is ! mosque ( ,mohamm$ ,ali1 :i* cr[ns ! citadel heights4 ,x is impos+ f its magnific5t position2 b :o ev] leaves x ) any high] ?\ght ?an ( ! money :i* has be5 lavi%$ on x8 ,an appreciative guide to ! mosques may n[ be f\nd 9 ,d\glas ,slad5's ,ori5tal ,cairo1 & to d "h inadequately :at he has done s well is n ! purpose ( ^! pages4 ,if s mu* enjoym5t is to be got out ( ! /udy ( ,s>ac5ic /ructures1 :at ab\t ! e>ly ,*ri/ian *ur*es8 ,!y provide less /hetic ent]ta9m5t ?an d ! mosques1 solely because _! numb] is v mu* m re/rict$4 ,b :]e 9 ?is wide _w c any "o int]e/$ 9 ! dawn ( ,*ri/ianity f9d a spot to appeal m to 8 sympa?ies ?an 9 ! sev5 ,coptic *ur*es :i* clu/] r\nd ! old =tress ( ,babylon8 ,conceal$ z !y are f public view1 "o ent]s _! prec9cts ) mu* ! same feel+s z on ent]+ ! catacombs ( ,rome4 ,)9 ! walls ( ?is ,*ri/ian settlem5t1 d>k & n>r[ passages lead to ! unobtrusive int]iors ( ! *ur*es4 ,! se>* = ! doorkeep]1 & :5 he is f\nd1 ! primitive key ) :i* he unbolts ! pond]\s lock1 & ! man's dress1 :i* twelve c5turies ( ,mohamm$an rule has n alt]$1 all t5d to take "o back to ! days :5 9 ^! hidd5 places ! %r9es ( ,abu-,s>ga & ( ,kadisa-,b>bra 7 rais$4 ,! fir/ ( ^! two1 :i* is m famili> to u z ,sa9t ,s]gius1 is usually visit$ be=e ! o!rs4 ,x dates f ! t5? c5tury1 :5 ! m tol]ant rule ( ! fir/ ,ftimid khalifs w\ld all[ ( its con/ruction2 b x /&s on ! site ( a *ur* ( a v mu* e>li] date4 ,! crypt ( its pr$ecessor /ill rema9s1 & ?is takes "o back to ! times :5 ,memphis /ood :]e "s rubbi% hills n[ only m>k its site on ! we/]n banks ( ! ,nile2 :5 ,bab-li-,on 0 9 tru? ! s\!rn gate ( ,on1 ! #8,city ( ! ,sun1' ( :i* no?+ n[ is visible b ! obelisk ( ,heliopolis4 ,a tree m>ks ! spot :]e ! ,virg9 & ! *ild ,jesus are said to h re/$4 ,x is ab\t a mile ?is side ( ! obelisk1 & "s fifte5 miles f ! =tress ( ,babylon :i* ! ,romans built on ! site ( ! gate ( ,on1 & ^: "n x reta9$4 ,tradition has x t ne> ?is tree ! ,virg9 ba!d h] *ild 9 "s bracki% wat]1 & ?is becom+ sweet1 ! pilgrims to ?is day dr9k ( t f\nta94 ,tradition helps u to trace ! j\rney ( ! ,holy ,family f ?is tree to ! crypt bel[ ! *ur* ( ,abu-,s>ga1 = x tells u ( ano!r re/+-place ab\t midway1 & t is ,joseph's well on ! citadel hill4 ,we are tak5 d[n "s dilapidat$ /eps to visit ! crypt1 :i* we are told 0 ! ,egyptian h\se ( ,joseph & ,m>y :ile !y hid _! *ild f ,h]od's wra?4 ,ne$less to say t ! crypt is a ,*ri/ian /ructure1 & ( a lat] date ?an ! ,roman =tress1 :i* at its e>lie/ is plac$ 9 ! second c5tury ( our ,"l4 ,b !re is no reason :y ?is spot %\ld n h be5 *os5 by ! ,holy ,family aft] _! flight into ,egypt4 ,"s ru9$ %r9e to a god ( ! decad5t my?ology may h /ood "h 9 :i* !y may h made _! home1 z ! e>ly ,*ri/ians (t5times did "s ?ree c5turies lat]4 ,to build a *ur* on s hall[$ a spot w\ld h be5 ! fir/ ?\ght ( ^! ,*ri/ians1 if any record /ill rema9$4 ,:5 ,babylon 0 besieg$ by ! ,mohamm$an invad]s1 ?is *ur* might h !n be5 de/roy$1 or if x surviv$ s long a siege1 x w\ld h disappe>$ aft] ,m]wn1 ! la/ ( ! ,omayyad khalifs1 _h set fire to ,fo/at4 ,be ?is z x may1 x is q probable t ?is pretty tradition has "s f\ndation 9 fact4 ,!re is little at pres5t to see 9 ! crypt by ! light ( ! tall[ dip :i* ! ,coptic s]vant holds 9 8 f+]s1 b ,i %\ld h regrett$ n to h se5 t little4 ,! t5?-c5tury *ur* above x is a little gem1 & h[ev] mu* ! dirt ( ^? :o att5d x1 & ! =mal ritual :i* few ( ! wor%ipp]s c und]/&1 may prejudice "o aga9/ ! mod]n ,copts1 ! fact rema9s t _! fai? has )/ood c5turies ( p]secution4 ,/anley ,lane-,poole wisely rem>ks t #8no "o c /& unmov$ 9 a ,coptic *ur* dur+ ! celebration ( ! ,mass1 or he> ! wor%ipp]s %\t ) "o voice1 j z !y did "s fifte5 hundr$ ye>s ago1 ! l\d response1 8,i believe ?is is ! ,tru?10 )\t emotion4' ,! :ole ( ! ,coptic settlem5t "h is built )9 ! girdle-wall ( ! ,roman ca/le ( ,babylon1 or #8el-,kasr-e%-,%ema1' z ! natives /ill call x4 ,?is ,arabic "n1 #8,! ,ca/le ( ! ,sun1' emphasises ! position x held 9 reg>d to anci5t ,heliopolis1 ( :i* x 0 a bulw>k4 ,we also he> m5tion ( ?is e%-,%ema 9 ! prophecies ( ,j]emiah xliii4 #ac3 #8,he %all break also ! images ( ,be?-%eme%1 t is 9 ! l& ( ,egypt2 & ! h\ses ( ! gods ( ! ,egyptians %all he burn ) fire4' ,p]*$ up betwe5 two ba/ions ( ! ,roman ca/le1 & ov] its gate1 is ! ,mu'llaka or ! #8hang+' *ur*4 ,less ri* 9 traditions ?an its neighb\r1 ) "s ( its romance de/roy$ by a mod]n approa*1 x gives ! intellig5t visitor ev5 great] pleasure ?an ,abu-,s>ga :i* he has se54 ,he may confuse its plan ) t ( ! neighb\r+ *ur*es1 & "t may oblit]ate ! con/ruction ( its pi]s & b>rel-%ap$ ro(1 b nev] w he =get ! little ,byzant9e pulpit /&+ on ! fifte5 sl5d] ,s>ac5ic columns1 & reliev$ aga9/ z ri* a scre5 z ev] clos$ 9 a sanctu>y4 ,i h attempt$ to ent] into m ( ! details ( ^! ,coptic *ur*es 9 ,bel[ ! ,cat>acts1 also ( ! hi/ory ( ,fo/at1 ! #8,t[n ( ! ,t5t1' :i* ,amr ,ibn el-s built ar\nd ! =tress ( ,babylon1 & :i* dur+ successive dyna/ies ( khalifs 0 ext5d$ until x cov]$ ! space n[ occupi$ by ! old city ( ,cairo4 ,! topography & hi/ory has be5 admirably giv5 to u by ,/anley ,lane-,poole2 /ud5ts ( e>ly ,*ri/ian ar*itecture c f9d all t is kn[n ( ! ,coptic *ur*es 9 t s*ol>ly "w ( ,dr4 ,a4 ,j4 ,butl]1 ,! ,anci5t ,coptic ,*ur*es ( ,egypt4 ,i _c1 h[ev]1 refra9 f m5tion+ ! #8hang+ g>d5' :i* adjo9s ! ,mu'llaka4 ,! palms :i* gr[ !re1 high above ! f]tilis+ ,nile1 are wat]$ by ! fai?ful to p]petuate ! tradition t ! ,virg9 ,m>y1 on arriv+ at h] new abode1 fir/ broke h] fa/ ) "s dates :i* %e cull$ f a palm-tree gr[+ ne> ?is spot4 ,f\r m ,coptic *ur*es are )9 easy rea* ( ?is "o1 & z p>ts ( !m date back to ! ?ird c5tury1 !re is mu* to occupy ! "t ( ! ar*ologi/ ev5 if ! arti/ does n always f9d :at is be/ suit$ to 8 bru%4 ,! =tress ( ,babylon & ! ,coptic settlem5t )9 its walls are two or ?ree miles s\?-we/ ( ! ma9 "p ( ! city1 & situat$ at ! back ( an old suburb1 opposite ! isl& ( ,rodah1 kn[n z ,old ,cairo4 ,?is "n is mislead+1 = ! pres5t m$ival ,cairo exi/$ long be=e ?is suburb1 :i* 0 built on l& recov]$ f ! ,nile aft] ,fo/at _h become a ru9\s wa/e4 ,x looks old en\gh n[1 b x does n require _m g5]ations to imp>t an anci5t appe>ance to ! poor] ,arab dwell+s4 ,! ,kasr-e%-,%ema1 on ! high] level1 is t "p :i* might ju/ly be call$ ,old1 = x is ! nucleus f :i* ! pres5t huge city develop$4 ,!re are also sev]al ,coptic *ur*es 9 ,cairo prop]1 & "o 9 ,beyn es-,sure51 ne> ! ,arm5ian ,*ur*1 is said to be ! olde/ 9 ,egypt1 & consequ5tly "o ( ! e>lie/ *ur*es 9 ,*ri/5dom4 ,a portion ( ! ,copts1 :o h jo9$ communion ) ! ,roman ,ca?olics1 h _! *ur* close by4 ,i saw a great deal ( _! prie/1 & ( "s lead+ memb]s ( 8 community1 :ile ,i sp5t a summ] 9 a village on ! ,lebanon4 ,!y _h gone !re p>tly = _! heal? & p>tly to escape ! hotte/ mon?s ( ! ,egyptian summ]4 ,! prie/ 0 a v diff]5t type ( man intellectually f ! le?>gic monks ,i met 9 ! conv5ts at ,wadi el-,natrn4 ,i am indebt$ to him = mu* in=mation ab\t ! ,ca?olic *ur*es 9 ! ,ne> ,ea/4 ,he _h be5 prep>$ = ,holy ,ord]s 9 ,rome1 al?\gh he & 8 community are "u allegiance to ! ,pope1 & d n call !mselves ,roman ,ca?olics1 b memb]s ( ! ,coptic ,ca?olic ,*ur*1 :ile !y are v t5aci\s ( ! privileges :i* !y secur$ :5 !y sec$$ f ! ma9 body ( ! ,copts4 ,! prie/s are all[$ to m>ry1 & also to say ,mass 9 ! obsolete ,coptic language4 ,my fri5d told me t ?\gh all[$ to m>ry if he wi%$ to d s1 he _h come to ! conclusion t ! ,lat9 ,*ur* 0 "r 9 en=c+ celibacy on its cl]gy4 #8,no6 no6 no6' f ! ladies :o 7 pres5t at our conv]sation1 %[s t my fri5d's views 7 n popul>4 ,simil> privileges h be5 all[$ to ! o!r memb]s ( ea/]n ,*ri/ian *ur*es :5 !y submitt$ to ! ,*ur* ( ,rome4 ,x is ! exception :5 _! prie/s g to a !ological college at ,rome1 & ! great majority evid5tly d n hold my fri5d's views on matrimony1 = few rema9 s+le4 ,z only ! ,*ur* ( ,rome repeats ! ,mass 9 ,lat91 x might h be5 expect$ t ! ea/]n *ur*es "u h] au?ority w\ld h made use ( languages und]/ood by _! congregations4 ,b ?is is n s4 ,no ,copt c und]/& ! ,coptic liturgy :i* he he>s repeat$2 only a few cultur$ ,syrian ,m>onites c foll[ ! ,syriac ,mass1 & ! ,ca?olic ,greeks1 ! ,arm5ians1 & ! ,*aldeans all he> ! liturgy 9 languages long obsolete4 ,my fri5d c\ld foll[ ! mean+ ( ! ,coptic phrases he daily us$2 b ap>t f ^!1 ,coptic is a dead language to him4 ,he k9dly repeat$ ! ,"l's ,pray] to me1 &1 ) possibly an ,arabic acc5t1 8 words mu/ h s\nd$ ! same z ^? 9 use 9 ! days ( ! ,ptolemies4 ,a few ,coptic words h /ill surviv$ & are 9 use among/ ! peasantry ( ,upp] ,egypt1 & possibly philologi/s may discov] "s 9 ! colloquial ,arabic ( ! ,delta4 ,x is 9 ,upp] ,egypt t we /ill f9d ! type portray$ 9 ! anci5t sculptures1 among/ ! ,moslems z well z ! ,*ri/ians2 b 9 ! ,delta ! ,copt %[s 8 ance/ry m conspicu\sly1 z ! ,moslems among/ :om he dwells h !re a great] admixture ( ,arab blood4 ,i 0 v mu* /ruck ) ! resemblance a ,coptic g5tleman1 :o 0 /ay+ at ! same inn z myself1 bore to ! celebrat$ #8,%eykh-el-,bel$1' ! fif? dyna/y /atue 9 ! ,cairo museum4 ,he 0 y\ng] & n z /\t z ! /atue1 b he might h pass$ = a y\ng] bro!r4 ,! broad nose & full lips1 ! r prom95t *eek-bones1 & a slight upw>d incl9ation ( ! eyes f ! nose1 7 all !re z 9 8 prototype ( "s sixty c5turies ago4 ,i rem>k$ to him t :ile we 7 savages 8 =ebe>s 7 ! greate/ p 9 ! _w4 ,8 answ] 01 #8,yes2 & n[ y are ! greate/ p 9 ! _w1 :ile we are ! savages4' ,lane rem>ks t ! ,egyptian1 9 answ]+ a "q1 is m likely to say :at he ?9ks may be agreeable to 8 he>] ?an to /ick to ! absolute tru?4 ,?is look$ r l x4 ,i h he>d our mission>ies accus$ ( deceiv+ ! subscrib]s to ! missions1 by /at+ ! numb]s ( _! conv]ts & n specify+ :e!r ^! conv]ts 7 f ,islam or 7 m]ely ,copts :o _h *ang$ f "o =m ( ,*ri/ianity to ano!r4 ,if ?is is true1 ! subscrib]s might ju/ly feel t !y _h be5 deceiv$4 ,b ,i %\ld l fur!r pro( ( ?is accusation be=e accept+ ! tru? ( x2 ! t5d5cy ( ,europeans 9 ! ,ea/ is to believe any?+ :i* may discr$it ! mission>y4 ,t ,islam is a b>ri] :i* ! mission>y has s f> fail$ to break ?r\gh is true en\gh1 & mission>ies :om ,i h met h be5 ! fir/ to admit ?is4 ,c "o wond]1 !n1 t !y turn f s b>r5 a soil to s[ _! se$ among/ ! ,copts1 :o h %[n "s t5d5cy to receive x8 ,! fai? ( ! ,copts has su/a9$ !m ?r\gh c5turies ( p]secution2 b x is amaz+ h[ /agnant a fai? may sometimes hold a p toge!r4 ,:5 ,i ?9k ( ^? lazy monks at ,wadi el-,natrn2 _! neglect$ *apels2 _! b>r5 g>d5s1 ?\gh wat] 0 !re _h !y ! en]gy to draw x2 ,i m>vel h[ ?is p has ev] ris5 to be a p[] 9 ,egypt4 ,t !y are a p[] to be reckon$ ) we h lately se54 ,! common mi/ake ( judg+ a p f a few specim5s :o are =c$ into "o's notice is evid5t "h4 ,a v mu* l>g] proportion ( !m are lit]ate comp>$ ) ! ,moslem ,egyptians1 & !y fill1 9 consequ5ce1 a mu* l>g] proportion ( situations :]e "s in/ruction1 o!r ?an t ( ! ,koran1 is necess>y4 ,! grievance !y are v5tilat+ is t !y d n get _! %>e ( ! highly sal>i$ gov]nm5t po/s1 & z f> z ,i c\ld asc]ta91 !y h a subject ( compla9t4 ,_! numb]s w probably increase l>gely1 n[ t p]secution no m drives _! weak] bre?r5 into ! folds ( ,islam4 ,!y are f]v5t 9 bus9ess if !y d n always s]ve ! ,"l1 & "s h accumulat$ great weal?4 ,! black & sometimes ! blue turban1 :i* di/+ui%es !m f ! ,mohamm$ans1 0 orig9ally =c$ on !m ) o!r & m vexati\s enactm5ts2 !y /ill we> x1 h[ev]1 ?\gh ( c\rse free to put on :at !y l4 ,! wom5 us$ to we> ! face veil :5 out ( doors1 m z a protection ?an z an ord9ance ( _! religion1 & at pres5t mo/ ( !m h disc>d$ x4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,! ,,sph9x1 ,,& ,a ,,diss]tation ,,on ,,tommy ,,atk9s ,i well rememb] h[ s5tim5t 0 %ock$ :5 x 0 propos$ to con/ruct a tram-l9e to ! ,pyramids ( ,gizeh3 ,i may also h turn$ up ! :ites ( my eyes at ! m]e ?\ght ( su* a desecration4 ,x is n[ a well-e/abli%$ conc]n1 & we may congratulate ourselves t nei!r ! ,pyramids nor ! ,sph9x seem mu* ! worse = x4 ,! l9e ends j bel[ ! plateau on :i* ! ,pyramids h be5 rais$1 & by ! "t ^! are rea*$ ! prosaic tram-c>s are well out ( sight4 ,! ,antiquities ,dep>tm5t holds all ! gr\nd :i* conta9s any?+ "h ( int]e/1 s we %all be sp>$ ! erection ( any?+ t5d+ to vulg>ise x4 ,! tram is 9 tru? a great boon to _m1 & n ! lea/ to ^? :o1 l myself1 sp5d mu* "t 9 ! baza>s & /reets ( ! old city4 ,i c look back on no?+ m pleasurable1 dur+ my la/ soj\rn 9 ,egypt1 ?an ! moonlit ev5+s quietly sp5t on ! glori\s ,pyramid plateau4 ,i put ?is (f until ! season 0 well on ! wane & ! fir/ great heat _h empti$ ,cairo ( ! bulk ( its =eign sightse]s4 ,a =ty m9utes' run--&1 my ^w1 !re is no dawdl+ "h6--along ! ,gizeh road1 bl[s ! heat & ! baza> /uff9ess well out ( "o's sy/em1 & ! pure dry air ( ! des]t1 :5 ! high] level is rea*$1 prep>es "o to enjoy ev]y?+ to ! utt]mo/4 ,famili>ity may h less5$ ! excitem5t :i* a fir/ gaze at ! _w's greate/ wond] mu/ produce1 b famili>ity has nev] robb$ x ( its awful impressiv5ess4 ,! rays ( ! decl9+ sun or ! light ( ! moon may glorify ! mo/ commonplace subjects2 b t :i* is always gr& "h rea*es ! sublime on a f9e moonlight night4 ,let u cross ! broad %ad[ ca/ by ,kheops' mighty tomb1 & glance up t va/ surface1 rapidly rec$+ & less5+1 yet m & m cle>ly def9$ z x rises into ! deep5+ backgr\nd ( ! />-spangl$ blue4 ,its base is h>dly def9able f ! pale gold5 s& on :i* x re/s1 & ! di/ance to ! fur!r angle is h>d to judge4 ,to our left ?ree %apeless masses /& out d>k aga9/ ! ea/]n horizon3 !y are ! ru9s ( ! small pyramids b5ea? :i* 7 laid ! ,ph>aoh's daught]s4 ,0 ,h5wets5 "y or fair :5 %e f\nd h] re/+-place b5ea? t heap ( /ones8 ,_h no monum5t be5 rais$ to m>k ! spot1 ! sixty c5turies s9ce elaps$ might n h di/urb$ h] sleep4 ,illu/ration3 ,,p]sian ,,alm%\ses ,foll[+ a /raighti% c\rse ov] ! s&-buri$ necropolis1 we soon see1 ris+ f a holl[ 9 ! plateau1 a mu%room-%ap$ rock1 & we "k t our objective is 9 sight4 ,we skirt ! depression 9 ! soil till we are arre/$ by ! huge human pr(ile1 :i* is n[ cle>ly def9$ aga9/ ! sky4 ,i leave my companion to 8 contemplations2 = ! supreme mom5t1 :5 ,i consid] ! ,sph9x is to be at 8 be/1 has n[ arriv$4 ,i run r\nd ! edge ( ! holl[ to comp>e a ?ree-qu>t] view ) 8 full face4 ,he seems too sunk & dw>f$ by ! gr\nd beh9d him1 & ,i desc5d to ! l[] level till 8 %\ld]s j appe> above ! horizon4 ,i feel ,i c't bett] ?is view1 & ,i settle d[n to try & absorb z mu* z my memory w hold1 ) a dim hope ( be+ able to record x on ! foll[+ morn+4 ,! moon %9es s brightly 9 ^! latitudes1 t ,i _h look$ =w>d to be+ able to pa9t by its light4 ,t 0 9 my e>li] days1 & ! muddy-look+ mess1 :i* ! next morn+'s light reveal$1 made me ab&on any fur!r attempts 9 t direction4 ,to take all ! notes "o c1 & to reta9 z mu* ( ! col\r z "o's memory c hold1 is ! only possible way to battle ) ?is subject4 ,!re are mom5ts :5 uncall$-= in=mation might almo/ ju/ify homicide4 ,i _h flatt]$ myself t1 hid away z ,i 0 9 ! %ad[ ( ! %elv+ slope ( ! holl[1 ,i might h rema9$ unobs]v$ by ! ,pyramid pe/s :o look ^u e /rang] z _! fair prey4 ,"s brok5 /ones slid+ d[n ! slope make me look up1 & !re to my horror ,i f9d "o ( ^! pe/s tak+ 8 seat j above me4 #8,hi1 mi/]1 y take my donkey2 ,roosevelt be/ donkey 9 ,egypt2 take y to ,m5a ,h\se = two pia/res4' ,i tell ! man 9 ,arabic to g away & n to di/urb me4 ,he is evid5tly disappo9t$ 9 me :5 he f9ds ,i am n entirely new to ! c\ntry2 possibly ?is is only a phrase ,i may h le>nt 9 a guide-book1 s he beg9s aga93 #8,yaas1 ,roosevelt be/ donkey 9 ,egypt2 two pia/res n mu* money2 y ride my 444' ,i jump up on murd] int5t1 ?\gh ,i am ! mo/ peaceable ( mortals4 ,! ,arab jumps up also &1 ?r[+ himself on ,roosevelt's back1 moves (f fa/] ?an he came4 ,:5 my irritation has calm$ d[n1 ,i h to beg9 ov] aga9 to try & impress on my m9d ! ess5tials ( ! gr& subject be=e me4 ,i admit t ! nuisance ( ! ,pyramid ,b$\9s has be5 some:at dim9i%$ ( late2 b !y are nev]!less a great nuisance /ill4 ,! fault lies to a c]ta9 ext5t ) ! t\ri/s1 especially ! ladies1 :o take f> too mu* notice ( !m4 ,if ! ladies 7 aw>e ( :at ^! blackgu>ds say ( !m1 !y w\ld p]haps keep !m at a bett] di/ance4 ,!y h lo/ all ! virtues ( ! true ,b$\9s1 & h acquir$ all ! vices ( ! ,fellahe54 ,!y are a good-look+ set ( ruffians1 :i* acc\nts = ! way "s visitors spoil !m2 b ?is does n excuse ! police f /opp+ _! importunities4 ,i f\nd on ! foll[+ morn+ t a second visit 0 necess>y1 & all[+ = ! lat] ris+ ( ! moon1 ,i w5t a second "t accompani$ by a sympa!tic fri5d4 ,we manag$ to %ake (f ! ,pyramid limpets1 & my fri5d kept gu>d ov] me :ile enjoy+ 8 pipe4 ,i ?9k ,i got :at notes ,i want$ be=e ano!r di/raction came4 ,"s half-doz5 ,briti% soldi]s 7 hav+ an ev5+ out1 & 7 also attract$ to ! moonlit ,sph9x4 ,_! object 0 also to get a pres5tm5t ( ! #8,my/]i\s ,"o1' ?\gh *iefly z a backgr\nd to !mselves4 ,! conv5tional gr\p1 :i* may be se5 "h any day dur+ ! season1 did n satisfy ! ,tommy ) ! cam]a4 ,he 0 probably a corporal1 = he direct$ 8 sitt]s z "o accu/om$ to comm&4 #8,crawl up on to 8 mug1 c't y]1' to two or ?ree :o _h f\nd a safe seat on ! %\ld]s4 #8,"r y are1 ,cocky1' came f an adv5tur\s sitt]1 :o proce$$ to climb ! neck & sw>m up ! wig till he rea*$ a safe position 9 ! ,sph9x's e>4 ,a m dang]\s climb 0 t ( "o :o work$ 8 way r\nd ! *eek to f9d a foot-hold 9 a crack :]e ! nose us$ to be4 ,ano!r proce$$ by a nor!rn r\te & risk$ 8 neck to get on to ! lip4 ,f9d+ ?is an insecure place he appeal$ to ! arti/ bel[4 #8',ang on to 'is eyelid & put y\r foot into 'is nor/ril1' came ! ^w ( comm&1 z well z pl5ty ( advice f ! ,arab spectators4 #8,n[--ready--pres5t--fire6' ,a dim light f a lucif] mat* 0 all ! fire we saw1 & l\d je]s f ! ,arabs dr[n$ :at language 0 address$ to ! defective fla%light4 ,an ,arab :o _h "s magnesium wire saw 8 opportunity to d a deal4 #8,i give y pl5ty light = "o %ill+4' #8,"o %ill+1 y blight]1 = an 'apor? ( wire6' came f ! photographic arti/1 ) comm5ts f ! sitt]s up al(t4 ,! "o safely fix$ 9 ! ,sph9x's e> 0 = hold+ out1 :ile ! "o hang+ on to ! eyelid propos$ com+ to t]ms4 #8,we'll give ye ?ree pia/res :5 ta job's fe5i%$1' bawl$ out ! latt] 9 a /rong ,nor? ,briti% acc5t4 #8,me "k :at !m pia/res feel l1' f ! ,arab1 :o _h n yet le>nt t ! ^w ( a ,briton is equal to 8 bond4 ,a ready-money transaction 0 cle>ly indicat$1 & two pia/res d[n 0 f9ally tak5 9 pref]5ce to ! promise ( ?ree f ! ,scot hang+ on to ! eyelid4 ,a fla% ( :ite light & a #8,hip1 hip1 hip1 hurrah6' f ! ,arab spectators1 br\ght ! sance to a close4 ,! ,briti% infantry1 :5 qu>t]$ 9 ! ,ea/1 develop a passion = rid+ "s bea/ or ano!r4 ,donkey-boys f\ght = its cu/om1 & ! supply be+ great] ?an ! dem&1 satisfactory t]ms 7 arrang$4 ,"o ,tommy decl>+ t ! #8commisairy camuel' 0 ! boy = him1 camels 7 soon on ! spot4 #8',&s (f1 y measly son ( ! ,pro(it1 or ,i'll give y a clip on ! side ( ! e>1' 0 ,tommy's w>n+ to an ov]-zeal\s claimant = 8 cu/om4 ,! driv] mov$ (f quickly to take 8 e> out ( dang]1 & a less presumptu\s rival got ! f>e4 ,we he>d1 z might be expect$1 ! well-worn je/ ab\t ! camel hav+ ! hump :5 ! bea/ %[$ a dis9cl9ation to rise1 & soon aft] ! m]ry p>ty disappe>$ 9 ! %ades ( ! des]t4 ,times & (t h ,i he>d our occupation ( ,egypt criticis$1 n by =eign]s resid+ !re1 b by ^? :o c\ld easily cle> out if ?+s look$ awkw>d4 ,x is naturally also a reproa* to ! native t 8 p %\ld n be consid]$ fit to gov]n !mselves1 ev5 :5 he d\bts t fitness himself4 ,b1 be ?is z x may1 ! conduct ( ! ,briti% soldi] is r>ely a cause ( compla9t4 ,i w ev5 g fur!r & say t ,tommy ,atk9s is popul> ) ! v p :om he is call$ ^u to hold 9 *eck4 ,he sp5ds 8 money--(t5 injudici\sly1 ,i admit--m freely ?an does ! ,levant9e1 & ! natives feel sure t ! paym5t ( a j debt c always be en=c$4 ,besides ?is1 he is a jolly fell[1 & a bit ( r\gh fun appeals to ! l[] ord]s 9 ,cairo4 ,briti% milit>y police patrol ! /reets at night1 & woe betide ,tommy if he is caught 9 a broil4 ,h[ f> ,cairo is conducive to our soldi]'s morals is ano!r matt]2 ,cairo1 h[ev]1 may be m to blame 9 ?is ?an ! m5 we s5d !re4 ,! milit>y au?orities d _! utmo/ to ensure good behavi\r1 b !y c't prev5t ! m5 f enjoy+ !mselves 9 _! own p>ticul> way :5 (f duty4 ,%\ld we be anxi\s to "k ! late/ #8turn' ( ! ,london music-halls1 we h b to walk d[n "s ( ! /reets nor? ( ! ,esbekiyeh an h\r or two be=e tattoo1 & we w f9d ,tommy giv+ ! #8turn1' ) suitable action1 to an admir+ cr[d 9 ! dr9k-%op4 ,!re is also g5]ally "o to play a piano accompanim5t1 & ,i h (t5 wond]$ h[ & :5 ?is soldi] c\ld h f\nd ! opportunity to acquire a suffici5t k ( 8 in/rum5t4 ,a conc]t9a obbligato is also ( frequ5t occurr5ce4 ,:5 ! ,levant9e l&lord's raw spirits beg9 to tell1 ! songs d n ( necessity become m upro>i\s1 z might be expect$2 b a mawki% s5tim5tality is ! *ief *>act]i/ic4 #8,! sailor sighs' or #8,! soldi] dropt a te>' is !n m ! type ( song ?an ! liveli] ones ) rollick+ *oruses4 ,donkey-boys hang ab\t ^! dr9k-%ops & o!r less reputable places1 & manage someh[ to get ! c>\s]s back to b>racks be=e tattoo has s\nd$4 ,un=tunately1 x is ^? :o sp5d _! ev5+s 9 ! lea/ pr(itable mann] :o are mo/ 9 evid5ce4 ,! places :]e h>mless recreation is provid$ = ! soldi]s are n 9 l mann] op5 to ! /reet1 & ! numb] :o use !m may well res5t be+ judg$ by ! samples :o frequ5t ! dr9k-%ops4 ,let u return to ! ,sph9x3 ! v ?\ght ( ! gaslit /reets ne> ! ,esbekiyeh makes ! air seem pur] & cool]2 ! expression ( ! #8,my/]i\s ,"o' is no m ruffl$ by 8 late indignities ?an w\ld be ! face ( a %eykh aft] hav+ bru%$ (f a few flies4 ,i _h tak5 ! notes ,i want$ & my companion _h be5 well ent]ta9$ by ! comic int]lude ! soldi]s _h provid$4 ,x 0 a glori\s moonlight night1 ! ,sph9x look$ maje/ic despite 8 batt]$ features1 ! pale w>m col\r+ ( ! neck & %\ld]s h>monis$ beautifully ) ! des]t %ades 9 :i* x 0 p>tly lo/1 & ! m sombre l9es ( ! head 7 reliev$ aga9/ a l[-ton$ blue ( a quality z hopeless to attempt to describe z x seem$ hopeless ev] to mat* ) ! limitations ( ! pallet4 ,"o leaves su* a sc5e ) mu* ! same s5sations z aft] hav+ witness$ "s gr& & solemn function4 ,x is z well t ^! sc5es are n ( daily occurr5ce1 le/ ! critical eye rob x ( its solemnity4 ,! tram-c>s run u back across ! five miles ( cultivation :i* sep>ate ! ,pyramid plateau f ! ,nile2 !y cross by ! new bridge to ! isl& ( ,rodah1 & !n1 skirt+ ,old ,cairo1 we are c>ri$ along ! ea/ bank ( ! riv] till we are put d[n 9 ! he>t ( ! mod]n qu>t]s4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,! ,,hamse51 ,,! ,,lamp-,,%op1 ,,& ,,! ,,accession ,,( ,,said ,,pa%a ,f ! end ( ,m>*1 :5 ! w9d %ifts to ! s\?1 we get a ta/e ( summ]'s heat4 ,! talk 9 ! hotels is ( home-return+ /eam]s1 & ,cook's (fices are besieg$ ) visitors anxi\s to secure e>ly book+s4 ,! ,hamse51 z ?is unpleasant w9d is call$1 causes a rapid rise 9 ! temp]ature1 & :ile x la/s ! :ole aspect ( nor!rn ,egypt *anges4 ,! sky p>takes ( ! col\r ( ! des]t1 & has some?+ ( ! look ( a slight ,london fog2 ! sun also rem9ds u ( ! pale orange sph]e visible :5 ,london]s rem>k on its be+ a f9e day4 ,ap>t f ^! appe>ances ! s5sations felt are v diff]5t4 ,nei!r moi/ure nor smoke give t yell[i% look "h2 x is ! s& :i* ! w9d collects z x bl[s across ! des]t 9 its nor!rn c\rse4 ,z ! w9d increases1 s ! temp]ature rises1 & ! extreme dryness ( ! air causes ^? unpleasant s5sations felt ) ! fir/ symptoms ( fev]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,/ore ,,( ,,nass,n ,cairo becomes unpa9table1 ! sun h>dly ca/s a %ad[ ?r\gh ! ?ick5+ cl\ds ( du/1 & su* %ad[ z x is has none ( t blue reflect$ light :i* gives ! true %ad[ quality4 ,did n exp]i5ce tea* me t x is only a pass+ phase1 my incl9ation w\ld be to pack up & leave by ! fir/ available /eam] & jo9 ! migration to ! nor?4 ,x is useless to hunt ab\t ! /reets = subjects2 = ev5 if "o 7 f\nd suffici5tly attractive1 ! du/ w\ld r5d] ! "w an impossibility4 ,"s subject ( a /ill-life nature 9 ! %elt] ( ! baza>s or an int]ior mu/ be f\nd1 unless "o makes up "o's m9d to /ay indoors until ! w9d sets 9 a m fav\rable qu>t]4 ,! ^w hamse5 means fifty1 & is giv5 to ?is w9d because ( ! fifty days dur+ :i* spells ( x may be expect$4 ,if /reet r[s are m frequ5t1 if irritability or heada*es are compla9$ (1 ! ,cair5e %rugs 8 %\ld]s & says #8,hamse54' ,x 0 a day ( t k9d t took me once m to ! ,khan ,khalil4 ,i _h (t5 be5 attract$ by a lamp-%op !re1 b _h put (f pa9t+ x on acc\nt ( ! elaborate detail1 & d\bts :e!r ! results w\ld be proportionate to ! "w involv$4 ,a corn] well %elt]$ f ! w9d & an oblig+ %opman induc$ me to set up my easel4 ,%\ld ! w9d *ange1 ,i c\ld always leave x & return :5 ! next hamse5 w\ld make "w impossible else:]e4 ,e type ( ,egyptian lamp hung r\nd ! entrance1 & lamps & lamp/&s l9$ ! walls ( ! passage lead+ into ! /ore beyond4 ,!re1 9 ! deep] %ades1 ! sp>kle ( poli%$ metal sugge/$ innum]able lamps ( :i* ! ne> ones 7 samples4 ,brass b[ls & trays1 teapots & c&le/icks1 fill$ up ! spaces :]e lamps c\ld n be hung4 ,) ! buff-col\r$ /one ( ! build+1 ?is metal-"w made a h>moni\s :ole4 ,to pull ?is toge!r s z n to lose ! bread? ( effect w\ld be no easy task4 ,dur+ ! ?ird day 9 ?is corn] ( ! baza> a ray ( sunlight h]ald$ a return ( beautiful wea!r2 a drop 9 ! temp]ature & ! feel ( "o's sk9 7 en\gh to tell "o t ! w9d blew no m f ! s\?1 & t once m ! cool breezes f ! sea ran c\nt] to ! fl[ ( ! ,nile4 ,! little sunlight :i* f\nd its way betwe5 ! awn+s & matt+ :i* ro( 9 ?is baza> 0 en\gh to alt] ! :ole effect ( my subject4 ,my draw+ look$ lea!ry & sodd5 comp>$ to ! ri* gl[ :i* lit up ! %op1 & prov$ t ev5 ! ne>e/ bit ( /ill-life is bett] :5 ! pres5ce ( ! sun is felt4 ,i spong$ out m lamps 9 two m9utes ?an ,i _h put 9 9 two days1 & ?is corn] knew me no m on hamse5 days4 ,x 01 aft] all1 only dur+ beautiful days t ,i c\ld complete ! draw+ :i* illu/rates ^! pages4 ,nassn is ! proprietor ( ! %op1 & ,nassn seem$ mu* ex]cis$ 9 8 m9d :y ,i %\ld h s ru?lessly made away ) s _m lamps1 ?\gh !y 7 only on pap]4 ,:at did a ray ( sunlight matt] z long z ! "n ( ,nassn 0 conspicu\s on ! signbo>d :i* hung ov] ! entrance8 ,z new lamps replac$ ! old1 ,nassn's int]e/ 9 my draw+ reawak5$1 & ov]tures 7 ev5 made = its acquisition4 ,i told him ,i wi%$ to take x to ,engl&1 z ,i want$ illu/rations = a book ,i 0 ab\t to write1 & he1 n wi%+ to lose a gratis adv]tisem5t1 got me to promise to say t he 0 prep>$ to supply any "o ) z _m lamps z !y c\ld possibly wi%4 ,he _h rec5tly furni%$ ! ,heliopolis hotel ) ?ree hundr$ metal ones1 & 8 /ock 0 n ne>ly exhau/$4 ,i look$ up ,mu/apha1 ! silk-m]*ant ) :om ,i _h sp5t an int]e/+ ev5+ dur+ ! ,hasaneyn fe/ival4 ,:ile we sipp$ our c(fee on ! ma/aba ( 8 %op1 we rev]t$ to ! tragic /ory ( ! ,iri%man ,o',donald & 8 fir/ meet+ ) ! pr9cess ,zohra4 ,h] hi/ory has be5 cont9u$ dur+ ?is n>rative1 & my read]s may rememb] t we la/ saw h] settl$ d[n 9 ,con/ant9ople "u ! protection ( ! ,sultan ( ,turkey4 ,h[ h] hatr$ ( ,abbas 7! !n rul+ ,vic]oy7 outliv$ h] ?w>t$ love = ,o',donald w n[ be relat$4 ,f ! acc\nt giv5 by ! ,g]man eng9e]1 ,max ,ey?1 ,i 0 able to tell ! silk-m]*ant m ( :at happ5$ ?an he knew2 = ,ey? _h ! details f ,halim ,pa%a1 ,zohra's own bro!r1 :o 0 an important actor 9 ! drama4 ,b no?+ to incrim9ate 8 si/] fell f ,halim's lips2 ! "p %e play$ 0 relat$ by ! s]vant ,rams1 f :om ,ey? obta9$ mo/ ( h] hi/ory4 ,:y no ,engli% edition ( ,max ,ey?'s ,h9t] ,pflug und ,s*raub/ock %\ld exi/ is a my/]y to ! pres5t writ]4 ,x w be rememb]$ t :5 ! great ,mohamm$ ,ali1 t[>ds ! end ( 8 reign1 fell into a /ate ( imbecility1 ! re9s ( gov]nm5t 7 seiz$ by 8 fam\s g5]al & adopt$ son ,ibrahim1 & t ! latt] di$ )9 a ye> aft] becom+ ! rul] ( ,egypt4 ,mohamm$'s dea? occurr$ soon aft]1 & ! vic]egal ?rone pass$ to 8 gr&son1 ,abbas ,i41 :o reign$ f #ahdi to #ahed4 ,dur+ ^! five ye>s ! ,europeanisation ( ,egypt ceas$4 ,abbas w\ld h none ( ! ,franki% innovations :i* 8 gr&fa!r enc\rag$2 ,european s*ools1 we/]n legal proc$ure & milit>y in/ruction 7 bani%$1 & ! ulemas1 d]vi%es1 & fakirs came by _! own once m4 ,8 c\ntry nev]!less prosp]$ dur+ 8 reign4 ,z 9 s _m in/ances 9 ! hi/ory ( ,egypt1 ?is rul] 0 a t]ror to 8 num]\s ne> relatives :o might be able to e/abli% a claim to ! succession4 ,( ! eighty-five *ildr5 ( ,mohamm$ ,ali b few 7 liv+1 & ?is few 7 well alive to ! dang] ( _! augu/ relation%ip4 ,ev5 ! pr9cess ,zohra1 aft] %e _h fl$ to ,con/ant9ople1 mu/ be c>eful ( :at %e ate or drank1 & ( ! loyalty ( ^? :o s]v$ h]4 ,! ,ta/] became once m an important p]sonage 9 ! v>i\s palaces1 & n ! lea/ 9 t ( ,abbas himself4 ,8 two uncles1 ,said & ,halim1 7 bo? mu* ! same age z _! nephew--a ?+ ( con/ant occurr5ce 9 ! h>eem life 9 ! ,ea/4 ,!y liv$ on t5t]hooks1 z be+ possible rivals to ! succession ( ,abbas's only son1 a delicate little boy call$ ,el ,hami4 ,said ,pa%a liv$ at ,alex&ria :5 he 0 n enjoy+ himself 9 ,p>is4 ,he 0 ! m9i/] ( ! ,egyptian navy--n an ardu\s po/1 = mo/ ( ! %ips _h be5 de/roy$ dur+ ! w>s ( 8 fa!r & ^? ( ,ibrahim4 ,halim ,pa%a liv$ 9 retirem5t 9 8 "m's palace at ,%ubra4 ,abbas & 8 l>ge h>eem divid$ _! "t at ! palace at ,abbasiyeh1 at ano!r :i* he built 9 ! des]t ne> ,suez1 & at a ?ird on ! banks ( ! ,nile at ,b5ha4 ,! *ief ulema ( ! ,azh> :o 0 tutor to ,el ,hami1 & ,elfy ,bey1 ! ,gov]nor ( ,cairo & ,m9i/] ( ,w>1 became ! lead+ m5 9 ! /ate4 ,rum\rs soon spread ?r\gh ! baza>s t a holy w> might any day be proclaim$1 &1 if s1 a g5]al massacre ( ! ,*ri/ians w\ld foll[4 ,lat] on x 0 report$ t ! day ( ! horse races at ,alex&ria 0 ! day decid$ on = ! ris+4 ,said & ,halim1 :o 7 bo? fri5dly to ! ,europeans1 trembl$ at ! consequ5ces :i* might foll[2 = 9 a g5]al ris+ opportunities are easily f\nd to dispose ( relations :o may be ?\ght 9 ! way4 ,! ,m9i/] ( ! ,navy f\nd an excuse = go+ to ,m>seilles ab\t ! pur*ase ( a frigate1 & he made prep>ations to sail ! day be=e ! races4 ,x 0 dur+ ! fir/ days ( ! hamse5 t ^! s9i/] rum\rs spread 9 ! baza>s1 & ,abbas decid$ to migrate ) 8 c\rt to ! palace at ,b5ha1 :i* is ab\t a ?ird ( ! way on ! road f ,cairo to ,alex&ria4 ,x 0 also decid$ to s5d ! "y pr9ce ,el ,hami to ,syria = ! good ( 8 heal?4 ,f 8 /ables at ,b5ha ! ,vic]oy w\ld s5d 8 fav\rite horse1 el ,dogaan1 to compete 9 ! ,alex&rian races4 ,! n>rator goes on to say t #8man may propose1 b ,god disposes4' ,abbas & 8 c\rt duly arriv$ at ! palace at ,b5ha2 ! hamse5 increas$ 9 /r5g?1 & ) x ! temp] ( ,abbas1 :i* at no "t 0 a good "o4 ,x 0 an easy task = ! ulemas & d]vi%es1 :o =m$ a "p ( 8 suite1 to dispel any misgiv+s :i* ! ,pa%a may h _h z to ! contemplat$ massacre4 ,! c\rt a/rolog]1 ,soliman el ,habe%i1 _h fix$ ! auspici\s h\r on :i* to beg94 ,! hamse5 fav\r$ _! designs1 = we are told t ! w9d increas$ 9 viol5ce1 & t el ,habe%i _h to make 8 calculations :5 no />s 7 visible1 ow+ to ! cl\ds ( du/ :i* hid !m4 ,rames1 ! s]vant ( ,halim ,pa%a1 n[ relates to ,ey? :at foll[$4 #8,i _h long be5 supplant$ 9 my po/ ( pipe-fill] to ,abbas1 :o at t "t 0 my ma/]1 by two h&some "y mamelukes call$ ,hassan & ,husseyn4 ,!y 7 tw9s1 ! same z 7 ! h]oes aft] :om !y 7 nam$4 ,!y _h be5 s5t f ,con/ant9ople z a pres5t f ! ,sultan to ! rul] ( ,egypt4 ,abbas _h e confid5ce 9 !m & load$ !m ) m>ks ( 8 fav\r1 :ile ,i 0 relegat$ to ! /ables4 ,i did n m9d t1 = ,i always lov$ horses1 & el ,dogaan 0 z ! apple ( my eye4 ,z no "o c\ld ride ?is horse z ,i c\ld1 x 0 decid$ t ,i %\ld d jockey 9 ! com+ races4 ,i 0 9 ! sev5? heav51 & 0 att5d+ to my *>ge "o night1 :5 ,i 0 />tl$ by ! appe>ance 9 ! /ables ( ! a/rolog]4 ,8 wild looks & ge/ures 7 al>m+4 8,be sil5t1 ,rames60 he said1 8! all-kn[+ ,god orda9s :at is "r1 b our ,"l ! ,ba%a is 9 8 ba?6 ,he ba!s 9 8 own blood60 #8,! horror ( ?is awful news gave way to a s5se ( relief t ,i 0 at la/ fre$ f a lifelong tyranny4 ,i ran to ! palace & crept sil5tly up ! /airs & ?r\gh ! passages :i* l$ to ! ba?room4 ,a lamp hung outside ! curta9 at ! entrance4 ,i fe>$ to pull ?is aside--,i li/5$1 & he>+ no s\nd my curiosity ov]came my fe>4 ,i pull$ back ! curta91 & a r$ ray f ! hang+ lamp fell on to ! m>ble ba?4 ,a nak$ arm hung ov] ! fur!r edge & a head lay aga9/ ! end wall4 ,z if to make him look ridicul\s1 8 assass9s _h slit ! m\? till x ne>ly rea*$ ! e>s1 & a horrible grimace add$ to ! awfulness ( ! sc5e4 ,a ga% 9 ! ?roat %[$ h[ ! ,ba%a _h met 8 dea?1 & a d>k r$ /ream /ill trickl$ f ?is to col\r ! wat] 9 :i* ! body lay4 #8,i /ill see1 :5 ,i close my eyes1 t bloodless face ) its diabolical smile1 lit by ! r$ rays ( ! hang+ lamp2 ?\gh ! ,ba%a 0 dead1 ! evil _s :i* possess$ him /ill clung to its t5em5t4 ,! co/ly m>ble ba?1 ! gild$ /alactites :i* hung f ! dome-%ap$ ro(1 & all ! luxury ) :i* ?is room 0 fitt$ only add$ to ! horror ( ! spectacle4 #8,i he>d voices n f> (f1 & knew ! dang] ,i ran if ,i 7 caught "h4 ,i slipp$ (f z fa/ & z sil5tly z ,i c\ld & return$ to my /ables1 :]e ,i saddl$ el ,dogaan & l$ him along ! footpa? to ! bank ( ! riv]4 ,huddl$ 9 a heap1 !re sat ! a/rolog]1 :o trembl$ z ! asp5 leaf4 ,i ask$ him :at he 0 do+ !re1 &1 putt+ 8 f+]s to 8 lips1 he :isp]$1 8,d y n "k1 ,o ,rames1 t !y seek to kill me8 ,! c\rt physician is already "u lock & key1 & all :o "k ( ?is murd] mu/ die--y also--= ! secret mu/ on no acc\nt leak out until ,el ,hami c be plac$ on ! ?rone40 8,!y mu/ cat* me fir/10 ,i call$ out1 & jump+ into ! saddle ,i /uck my spurs into el ,dogaan & rode t[>ds ,%ubra z fa/ z ,i c\ld4 #8,halim ,ba%a _h (t befri5d$ me1 & he w\ld n =sake me n[ 9 my dire necessity4 ,el ,dogaan rac$ along ! ,cairo road z fa/ z if he took "p 9 ! ,alex&rian meet+4 ,9 two h\rs he cov]$ ! gr\nd betwe5 ,b5ha & ! ,%ubra palace1 :]e we arriv$ be=e daybreak4 ,allah el ,azeem6 h[ he ran4 ,i ?\ght n only ( my safety1 b ( ! f>-rea*+ effects my news might h4' ,! pr9ce ,halim "h cont9ues ! n>rative3 #8,i 0 awak5$ :5 ! fir/ light ( ! ris+ sun 0 visible ov] ! edge ( ! des]t beyond ! ,abbasiyeh palace4 ,!y told me t a man _h br\ght a message :i* _h to be deliv]$ at once4 ,i desc5d$ to ! c\rty>d & f\nd ,rames2 b s cov]$ ) du/ 0 he t ,i c\ld h>dly recognise him4 ,aft] ! greet+ he :isp]$ 9 my e>3 8,god is j6 ,y\r nephew lies dead 9 8 ba? at ,b5ha40 ,y may imag9e ! %ock ?is news gave me4 ,b 0 ?is mameluke to be tru/$8 ,might x n be a ruse ( ,abbas to trap me ) a ^w or ge/ure1 :i* w\ld h be5 my undo+8 8,god's w be done10 ,i said1 & ord]$ ,rames to return at once to ,b5ha & let no "o "k t ,i _h k ( ! crime4 ,illu/ration3 ,,return ,,( ,,! ,,holy ,,c>pet #8,no "t 0 to be lo/ 9 appris+ my bro!r ,said1 z he 0 to h sail$ t v day f ,alex&ria1 &1 unless ,rames _h li$1 our c\ntry 0 n[ )\t a rul]4 ,! lad ,el ,hami 0 at ,damietta on 8 way to ,syria1 & if t *ild 7 made ,vic]oy1 ,egypt & all ( u w\ld be at ! t5d] m]cies ( ,elfy ,bey & ! ,ulema4 ,! ,engli% _h lately set up a telegraph (fice 9 ,cairo2 b h[ c\ld ,i ^w ?is message s z to be only und]/ood by my bro!r8 ,! foll[+ at la/ sugge/$ itself1 & ,said w\ld n h be5 a son ( 8 fa!r _h he misund]/ood ! mean+3 8,! h\se ?\ seeke/ 9 ,cairo is empty4 ,! door /&s op54 ,walk 940 ,said und]/ood4 #8,he told me lat] t my message 0 only j 9 "t1 = he 0 ab\t to />t = ! /eam]4 ,he decid$ promptly to leave = ,cairo in/ead1 & he & 8 bodygu>d 7 on ! road be=e ! /eam] _h disappe>$ beyond ! horizon4 ,!y rea*$ ,damanhur t ev5+1 & at an e>ly h\r next morn+1 :5 he arriv$ at ,b5ha1 he 0 in=m$ t ,abbas & 8 c\rt _h j left to return to ,cairo4 ,he que/ion$ "s ( ! notabilities ( ! t[n1 only to he> ) :at pomp ! ,vic]oy _h set out on 8 j\rney4 ,:at 0 my bro!r to make ( all ?is8 ,0 ?is telegram a trap8 or _h he p]haps misund]/ood its mean+8 ,! palace 0 des]t$1 s he & 8 foll[]s re/$ !re till ! foll[+ day1 & !n cont9u$ _! j\rney to ,cairo4 #8,i sp5t an anxi\s morn+ at ,%ubra1' cont9u$ ,halim ,pa%a1 #8b imag9e my a/oni%m5t :5 a runn] 9 my employ arriv$ f ,kali\b to in=m me t ,abbas _h pass$ ?r\gh t village1 & w\ld 9 all probability arrive at ,%ubra t[>ds five o'clock t v aft]noon4 8,t damn$ mameluke mu/ h li$10 said ,i to myself1 & ,i _h to make prep>ations1 z ! cu/om is1 to welcome ! ,vic]oy1 or 7%\ld he n wi% to break 8 j\rney7 to greet him at ! door ( my palace4 ,i _h h>dly put on my c\rt dress :5 two mess5g]s 7 ann\nc$1 & !y in=m$ me t !y _h be5 s5t ahead by ,8 ,highness1 my nephew1 to beg me n to /ay 8 j\rney1 z he 0 9 great ha/e to rea* 8 palace at ,abbasiyeh t ev5+4 ,9 "o ( ^! mess5g]s ,i recognis$ ,rames1 :o hung back :ile ! o!r spoke4 ,he droop$ 8 head & clos$ 8 eyes--0 ?is a sign8 ,& :at c\ld be ! int]pretation8 #8,t[>ds midnight ( ! foll[+ day ,said & 8 gu>d arriv$4 ,we _h to hide ! latt] z well z we c\ld 9 ! /ables & ou?\ses1 = x 0 a dang]\s bus9ess4 ,"s tru/y s]vants :om ,i _h s5t into ,cairo report$ on ! cr[ds ( p :o _h ga!r$ to witness ! ,vic]oy's progress ?r\gh ! city1 & decl>$ t ,8 ,highness b[$ 9 ackn[l$gm5t ( ! ovations he receiv$4 ,our anxiety increas$ ) ea* fre% report4 ,my "m1 h[ev]1 did n %>e our misgiv+s4 8,rames has n li$10 %e said2 8,i wat*$ him c>efully1 & 8 actions told me cle>ly t ,abbas 0 dead40 #8,we sp5t ! foll[+ day "h await+ "s report :i* might help to cle> up ! my/]y4 ,t[>ds ev5+ "s s]vants ( m9e br\ght 9 ! a/rolog]1 ,soliman1 :om !y _h pick$ up m dead ?an alive on ! road f ,b5ha4 ,i told !m to fe$ ! old blackgu>d1 & :5 he _h some:at recov]$ ,i que/ion$ him4 ,he wi%$ to tell me :at ! />s _h reveal$1 b ,i soon 0 satisfi$ 9 my m9d t ,rames _h n li$4 ,!re 0 /ill "t to take action be=e ! "y pr9ce ,el ,hami c\ld h rea*$ ,cairo f ,damietta1 & we c\ld n anyh[ h kept ,said & 8 ?irty reta9]s "h )\t excit+ suspicion4 ,i s5t ^w at once to ! ,comm&ant ( ! ,citadel to op5 ! gate at midnight & admit ! rul] ( ,egypt4 #8,t v night my bro!r ,said rode into ! old =tress z ,vic]oy ( ?is c\ntry4 ,! artill]y _h ord]s to def5d ! place %\ld ! necessity arise4 ,be=e daybreak we le>nt t ,el ,hami _h arriv$ f ,damietta1 & pres5tly ! ,ulema rode up & dem&$ ! gates to be op5$ to admit ! ,vic]oy ( ,egypt4 ,said admitt$ ! le>n$ scribe into ! audi5ce-*amb] & complim5t$ him on 8 zeal 9 com+ s e>ly to greet 8 new ma/]4 ,! ,ulema />$ z "o b]eft ( 8 s5ses4 ,said1 my bro!r1 0 a good-he>t$ man1 & did n seize on ?is opportunity to de/roy ! enemy :om =tune _h deliv]$ into 8 h&s4 ,he 0 fond ( a little joke1 & felt t n[ he c\ld af=d to indulge 9 "o3 a b>b] 0 summon$ to cut (f ! ,ulema's be>d1 & ! poor man 0 s5t (f ) a message to ,elfy ,bey to in=m ! latt] t 8 game 0 up1 & t he w\ld be receiv$ by 8 new ma/] z soon z he wi%$ to pres5t himself4 #8,elfy1 ?\gh a dev\t ,moslem1 0 n ! man to b[ to ! decrees ( fate--a self-inflict$ pi/ol-%ot end$ ! c>e] ( ! ,gov]nor ( ,cairo & ,egypt's ,m9i/] ( ,w>4 ,! ,ulema did n long survive ! loss ( 8 be>d1 & ! "y pr9ce ,el ,hami 0 all[$ to />t once m = ,syria = ! good ( 8 heal?4' ,! read] may n[ be curi\s to le>n h[ ,abbas's progress f ,b5ha to ,cairo 0 accompli%$1 = :5 we left t pr9ce 9 8 blood-/a9$ ba? 8 e>?ly j\rney 0 d\btless ov]4 ,rames n[ cont9ues ! n>rative3--#8,by ,allah1 ! compassionate1 ! m]ciful1 h[ ,i rode back to ,b5ha6 ,:at dang]s ,i incurr$ 9 return+ to t palace no "o knew bett] ?an myself2 b to s]ve my pres5t ma/]1 ,halim ,ba%a1 0 my *ief ?\ght4 ,x 0 b>ely t5 o'clock1 z y ,franks reckon ! "t1 :5 ,i & el ,dogaan arriv$4 ,none ( ! horses 9 ! /ables _h be5 att5d$ to1 & two ( !m 7 miss+4 ,i _h h>dly be5 t5 m9utes !re :5 ,i 0 call$ & _h to repair to ! ant]oom ( ! ba?4 ,! mamelukes :o p]sonally att5d$ our late ,ba%a _h also be5 summon$ !re2 b ,i notic$ t ( ! twelve two 7 miss+1 namely ,hassan & ,husseyn4 ,_! non-appe>ance 0 evid5tly acc\nt$ = & no "o spoke ( !m4 ,pres5tly ,elfy ,bey & ! ,ulema ent]$4 ,!y ord]$ u to repeat ! pr(ession ( our fai?1 & ea* "o _h to take an oa? t :at we %\ld n[ see %\ld n be reveal$ to any liv+ creature4 ,we all solemnly swore t we w\ld keep ! secret1 & !n ,elfy ,bey w>n$ u t if a ^w escap$ our lips1 our tongues %\ld be torn out & our flay$ bodies w\ld hang f ! walls ( ,sultan ,hassan's mosque4 ,he !n drew back ! curta91 & by ! light ( day ,i aga9 witness$ ! t]rible sight ( ! previ\s night4 #8,six mamelukes 7 ord]$ to lift ! body out ( ! ba? & to dress ! mortal rema9s 9 ! g>m5ts us$ on /ate occasions4 ,i & ?ree o!rs _h to return to ! /ables to prep>e ! /ate coa* & to h>ness six :ite horses4 ,:5 ?is 0 br\ght r\nd to ! door ( ! h>eem1 z ord]$1 ! body ( ,abbas 0 plac$ 9 a sitt+ po/ure on ! back seat ( ! c>riage1 & ! ,ulema sat beside x to hold x 9 position4 ,elfy ,bey & ! fav\rite eunu* sat ) _! backs to ! horses4 ,a veil 0 w\nd r\nd ! corpse's turban1 & an embroid]$ litm conceal$ ! l[] "p ( ! face1 z ! fa%ion (t5 is ) ! ,b$\91 z a protection f ! du/4 ,two sat on ! box & two /ood1 z is ! /yle ( ! ,franks1 on ! backbo>d ( ! coa*4 ,six cavali]s1 ( :om ,i 0 "o1 s]v$ z an escort4 #8,su* is ! mann] 9 :i* we />t$ on t progress to ! capital6 ,! fellahe5 greet$ u z we pass$ ?r\gh ! villages4 ,i he>d "s rem>k t our "l look$ ill1 & !y committ$ him to ! protection ( ,allah4 ,z ,i rode el ,dogaan1 :i* is fam\s = 8 spe$1 ,i 0 =tunately s5t ahead ) ! second mess5g] to ann\nce ! vic]egal progress to ,halim ,ba%a4 ,i d>$ n speak2 b hop$ t my signs w\ld be und]/ood4 ,by night-fall we rea*$ ,cairo &1 z 0 cu/om>y1 we c>ri$ light$ tor*es on ea* side ( ! coa*4 ,?\s&s witness$ our progress ?r\gh ! /reets2 ,i he>d aga9 ! rem>k t ! ,eff5d9a look$ ill1 & !re 0 also a sil5ce amid/ ! onlook]s :i* made me wond] :e!r any suspect$ ! tru?4 ,:5 we _h pass$ ?r\gh ! ,bab en-,nasr & 7 cross+ ! tract ( des]t :i* sep>ates t gate f ! palace at ,abbasiyeh1 ! ,ulema prais$ ,god & let ! corpse fall =w>d4 ,elfy ,bey curs$ ! old man & lift$ ! body into position aga94 #8,once inside ! palace !re 0 no?+ fur!r to d ?an to await ! return ( ,el ,hami f ,damietta4 ,x w\ld !n be "t en\gh to ann\nce ! dea? ( ,abbas & to proclaim 8 "y son z successor to ! vic]egal ?rone4 ,elfy w\ld !n h be5 ! virtual rul] ( ,egypt4 ,by ! m]cy ( ,allah 8 plans 7 fru/rat$ & a bullet end$ 8 e>?ly c>e]4 ,i 0 n long 9 seek+ out my pres5t ma/]1 & :at s]vices ,i may h r5d]$ h be5 lib]ally rew>d$4 #8,y may wi% to "k m ( ,hassan & ,husseyn1 ^: disappe>ance aft] ! murd] ,i _h notic$4 ,i h s9ce he>d t !y are n[ 9 ! s]vice ( ,pr9cess ,zohra1 &1 to tell y ! tru?1 !y 7 9 h] s]vice be=e !y ev] set foot 9 ,egypt4' ,zohra _h at la/ av5g$ ! dea? ( h] fir/ love4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,mohamm$an ,,fe/ivals3 ,,! ,,holy ,,c>pet--,,! ,,fa/ ,,( ,,ramadan ,,& ,,! ,,a%ura ,woman s seldom figures 9 ! hi/ory ( ! ,mohamm$an _w t :5 %e appe>s 9 ! long records ( ! khalifs1 ! emirs & ! vizirs1 %e is z welcome z a treble solo aft] a prolong$ bass *orus4 ,! /ory ( ! beautiful b unhappy ,zohra may n be edify+ 9 all its details1 b x lifts = a mom5t ! veil :i* conceals ! h>eem life1 & gives u an insight into ! tragic ev5ts occasionally enact$ beh9d ^! clos$ doors4 ,! curta9 has b rec5tly desc5d$ on ! drama 9 :i* ,zohra took a lead+ "p4 ,if we *ange ! names & omit a few details ref]r+ to pres5t times1 x w\ld be h>d to believe t ?is 0 n "s m$ival /ory su* z ! %o>a recite 9 ! m>ket-places4 ,we h to g back to ! ?irte5? c5tury to f9d ! "n ( a woman :o play$ an important "p 9 ! gov]nm5t ( ,egypt4 ,!re is some?+ refre%+ 9 h] "n1 ,%eg]-ed-,durr1 :i* means #8,! ,spray ( ,pe>ls1' com+ z x does among/ ! li/ ( ! blood-/a9$ w>riors ( ^? /irr+ times4 ,%e 0 a slave :o became ! wife ( ! mameluke1 ,emir es-,salih1 n ( him :o built ! ,ftimid mosque m5tion$ fur!r back1 b ( ! ,salih :o f\nd$ ! mameluke dyna/y :5 he usurp$ ! ?rone ( ! la/ ( ! h\se ( ,salad94 ,he 0 kill$ :ile fight+ ! ,crusad]s %ortly aft] ,%eg]-ed-,durr _h become 8 que54 ,! heir to ! ?rone 0 a son ( es-,salih by a =m] wife1 & "s "t elaps$ be=e he c\ld be br\ght f ! outly+ prov9ce :]e he also 0 endeav\r+ to hold ! ,crusad]s 9 *eck4 ,! wid[$ que5 und]took ! managem5t ( affairs 9 ! mean:ile1 keep+ ! dea? ( h] husb& a secret until ! succession %\ld be e/abli%$4 ,! new khalif1 ,turn-,%ah ibn es-,salih1 0 n long on ! ?rone be=e he met 8 dea? 9 a brawl1 & ,%eg]-ed-,durr once m took up ! re9s ( gov]nm5t4 ,%e sank h] id5tity 9 t ( h] baby son1 & rul$ "u ! title ( #8,"m ( ! victori\s ,k+ ,khalil4' ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,fruit-,,/all ,,at ,,bulak ,:ile ?is baby k+'s victories 7 conf9$ to ! nurs]y1 8 "m's g5]als 7 defeat+ ! ,crusad]s 9 e "p ( 8 dom9ions4 ,! battle ( ,mansra decid$ ! fate ( ! la/ ,crusade1 & ,l\is ,,ix4 0 tak5 prison] by ! ,emir ,beyb>s4 ,! "m ( ,khalil arrang$ ! ransom :i* 0 paid to release ! ,k+ ( ,france2 &1 ?\gh n 9 "n1 %e 9 fact gov]n$ ! c\ntry dur+ "s sev5 or eight ye>s4 ,! baby k+ di$1 & ,mohamm$an prejudice c\ld n brook a woman at ! head ( affairs4 ,! khalif ( ,baghdd 0 appeal$ to1 & a husb& 0 *os5 = h] 9 ! p]son ( ,aybek4 ,x appe>s t %e rul$ h] husb& ) z firm a h& z %e rul$ h] c\ntry4 ,b ?is rule 0 n ( long duration4 #8,l a true woman1' says ,/anley-,lane ,poole1 #8%e c\ld be jeal\s2 %e made him divorce ano!r wife1 & :5 ,aybek v5tur$ to propose a fre% m>riage ) a pr9cess ( ,mosil1 ! que5 gave way to a regrettable act ( res5tm5t2 hav+ lur$ him by fair words to ! ,citadel--! facts unhappily c't be s(t5$--%e _h him murd]$ 9 8 ba?'--n unlike ,zohra's v5geance ( six c5turies lat]4 #8,h] puni%m5t 0 spe$y & t]rible4 ,9 ?ree days all 0 ov]4 ,! mamelukes %ut h] up 9 ! ,r$ ,t[]1 :]e %e v9dictively p\nd$ h] jewels 9 a mort> t !y might adorn no o!r woman1 & !n %e 0 dragg$ be=e ! wife :om %e _h made ,aybek divorce1 & !re & !n beat5 to dea? ) ! wom5's clogs4 ,= days h] body lay 9 ! ,citadel dit* = ! curs to worry1 till "s good ,sam>itan buri$ x4 ,h] tomb may be se5 beside ! *apel ( ,sitta ,nfisa1 & a pi\s h& ( ^! latt] days has %r\d$ x ) a clo? on :i* ! ,arabic "n 8,spray ( ,pe>ls0 is work$ 9 gold4' ,! object ( ! pres5t writ] is n ! ambiti\s "o ( attempt+ a hi/ory ( ,egypt1 b to give a simple acc\nt ( su* ?+s z he saw & he>d :ile 9 pursuit ( 8 "w z an arti/4 ,! /ory ( ,zohra is /ill told 9 ! baza>s1 & ! pr(essional recit] /ill ent]ta9s 8 audi5ce ) ! do+s ( ,%eg]-ed-,durr4 ,?is que5 has also a be>+ on t vex$ "q ( ! orig9 ( ! ,holy ,c>pet4 ,! dep>ture ( ! ,mahmal & its return f ,mekka are ! two ev5ts 9 ,cairo :i* annually excite ! greate/ int]e/4 ,! hodag1 or ! gorge\s cov]$ litt] borne by a camel1 is usually tak5 by ! =eign sightse]s to be ! cov]+ ( ! ,holy ,c>pet :i* is de/9$ to be plac$ on ! ,kaabah at ,mekka4 ,!re is little wond] t ?is %\ld be s1 = x is by f> ! mo/ /rik+ object 9 ! procession4 ,x does n1 h[ev]1 conta9 ! c>pet1 or = t matt] any?+ else4 ,its orig9 dates f ! pilgrimage :i* #8,! ,spray ( ,pe>ls' made to ! ,holy ,city six c5turies & a half ago2 & ?\gh %e is only report$ to h gone once1 h] camel & litt] 7 ye>ly s5t to repres5t h]4 ,! orig9al hood ( ?is litt] has s9ce be5 replac$1 & ! ,mahmal1 z x is call$1 has ev] s9ce be5 s5t ) ! pilgrims to repres5t ,royalty at ! ye>ly hagg4 ,i h _h ! good =tune to see ! procession ( ! ,mahmal sev]al times1 bo? on its />t+ = ,mekka & on its return to ,cairo4 ,! ,kisweh1 z ! c>pet itself is call$1 is tak5 9 f\r sep>ate pieces1 :i* are enclos$ 9 boxes & borne by camels4 ,?\gh h&some clo?s cov] ^! boxes1 & ! trapp+s ( ! camels are magnific5t1 !y yet look f> less important ?an ! empty litt] :i* prec$es !m4 ,a new c>pet1 or1 prop]ly speak+1 a new cov]+ = ! ,kaabah is annually made1 &1 :5 ! fa/ ( ,ramadan is ov]1 its compon5t p>ts are deposit$ 9 ! mosque ( ! ,hasaneyn1 !re to rema9 = ! few weeks :i* elapse be=e ! pilgrimage sets out4 ,:5 ! great day arrives1 all ,cairo assembles 9 ! l>ge op5 space on ! s\? ( ! ,citadel walls1 & ea/ ( ! great mosques ( ,sultan ,hassan & ( el ,rifaiya4 ,8 ,highness ! ,kh$ive & all ! great /ate function>ies are "h1 & sm>t up-to-date soldi]s keep back ! cr[ds ( sightse]s to make way = z picturesque & truly ori5tal a spectacle z any "o c\ld wi% to see4 ,i confess t famili>ity has 9 ?is case robb$ ! proce$+s ( "s ( its *>m2 = ,i h se5 & sket*$ "s ( ^! camels 9 _! gorge\s trapp+s :5 !y h done duty at w$d+s1 & also 9 ! c\rty>d ( ! man :o hires !m out4 ,! pictorial effect is !re1 h[ev]1 none ! less4 ,i h enjoy$ x m :ile see+ x pass ?r\gh ! old m$ival /reets1 or file out into ! des]t ?r\gh ! ,bab en-,nasr4 ,until q rec5tly its r\te lay ?r\gh ! passes 9 ! ,mokattam hills1 & by ! des]t track :i* leads to ,suez4 ,x is n[ tak5 by tra9 to ,alex&ria1 & %ipp$ to ,jiddeh1 z ! ne>e/ port to ! ,holy ,city4 ,my illu/ration to ?is *apt] is ! return j\rney to ,cairo1 & ?\gh ,i may h tak5 "s lib]ties ) ! backgr\nd1 x w give "s idea ( its aspect dur+ its des]t m>*4 ,my picture ( ! m>riage procession 9 ! e>li] "p ( ?is book %[s "s ( ! prop]ties :i* figure 9 ?is ye>ly spectacle4 ,z ! ,mohamm$an ye> is compos$ ( lun> mon?s1 x is elev5 days %ort ( ! ye> z we und]/& x4 ,?us ^! & all o!r religi\s fe/ivals are set back elev5 days annually4 ,:51 9 ! c\rse ( "t1 ! pilgrims w />t on _! j\rney dur+ ! summ] mon?s1 few =eign]s w h an opportunity to see ?is picturesque pageant4 ,! ,great ,beiram w also fall dur+ ! "t :5 ,cairo is empty ( visitors1 & ?is is ! mo/ important holiday 9 ! ,mohamm$an _w4 ,x is ! day ( ! sacrificial fea/ :i* ! pilgrims p>take ( 9 ,mekka aft] !y h he>d ! s]mon on ,m\nt ,arafat4 ,z ?is impressive ga!r+ on ! holy m\nt is only to be witness$ by ! foll[]s ( ! ,prophet1 we mu/ cont5t ourselves ) see+ all we c ( its commemoration 9 m accessible places4 ,! ,less] ,beiram1 ) :i* we mu/ n confuse x1 is ! holiday & fea/+s :i* foll[ ! la/ day ( ! fa/ ( ,ramadan4 ,to be sp>$ ! mon? ( ,ramadan is a loss no visitor ne$ regret4 ,he w n be mu* aw>e ( x 9 8 mod]n hotel1 :]e ,franki% s]vants may eat & dr9k _! fill2 b %\ld 8 occupation lie among/ ! natives1 he w inde$ rejoice :5 ! la/ gun is fir$ to h]ald ! adv5t ( ! ,less] ,beiram4 ,z 9 _m o!r matt]s1 ?is fa/ fells mu* m heavily on ! poor ?an on ! ri*4 ,! well-to-d c pass mo/ ( ! h\rs1 betwe5 ! ris+ & ! sett+ ( ! sun1 9 sleep or 9 _! cool & comp>atively du/less homes4 ,b j ?9k :at a long day sp5t 9 ! sun & ! du/ mu/ be to a man :o may n let a drop ( wat] pass 8 lips6 ,! call\s rem>k t !y are us$ to x is nons5se4 ,!y are us$ to a dr9k ( wat] :5ev] !y feel incl9$ dur+ ! elev5 mon?s prec$+ ! fe/1 & ?is mu/ q h brok5 ! habit ( a rigid ab/95ce4 ,i sp5t "o ,ramadan 9 ! camp ( ! ,egyptian ,exploration ,fund1 & h se5 two or ?ree hundr$ m5 & boys work+ ! :ole day 9 a p]petual du/4 ,:at _! crav+s = a dr9k ( wat] mu/ h be5 0 easily imag9$2 = ?\gh ,i work$ 9 ! %ade & z f> f ! excavation du/ z ,i c\ld1 ! dry des]t air (t5 induc$ me to h a pull at ! wat]-bottle4 ,mr4 ,currelly1 :o direct$ ! "w1 0 consid]ate en\gh to alt] ! h\rs1 :5 we appreciat$ h[ ^! m5 suff]$2 & by />t+ at daybreak & work+ till d>k1 a long re/ dur+ ! extreme heat ( ! day 0 p]missible4 ,9 ! /reets & baza>s ( ,cairo ! fa/ seems to affect ! temp]s ( ! p ev5 m ?an ! hamse5 is wont to d4 ,qu>rels are mu* m frequ5t1 & ! only occasion :5 ,i _h a s]i\s r[ ) a native :i* might h l$ to v unpleasant consequ5ces 0 dur+ ,ramadan4 ,i _h secur$ a com=table seat on ! ma/aba ( a little %op & 0 pa9t+ a fruit-/all on ! opposite side ( ! road4 ,my man ,mohamm$ induc$ ! woman :o kept ! /all to pose to me :ile %e squatt$ amid/ ! apples & oranges :i* %e sold4 ,! usual b>ga9+ took place betwe5 my man & ! woman1 & inquisitive neighb\rs 7 int]e/$ z usual 9 ! proce$+s4 ,:5 x 0 agre$ t %e w\ld pose = ab\t ! value ( h] :ole /ock 9 trade1 ,i set to "w4 ,%e 0 a "y woman & wore no face-veil1 :i* sugge/$ t %e 0 ( easy virtue4 ,i 01 h[ev]1 m conc]n$ ) my draw+ ?an ) ! morals ( my model4 ,a r\gh-look+ fell[ pres5tly />t$ an alt]cation ) h]1 & z he /ood betwe5 me & my subject1 ,i told ,mohamm$ to ask him to /& aside4 ,x appe>$ t ! man object$ to ! woman be+ pa9t$1 & he turn$ furi\sly on ,mohamm$ :5 ! latt] tri$ to induce him to move on4 ,_h ,i !n _h ,mahmood z a s]vant1 he w\ld h made %ort "w ( my int]rupt]2 b ,mohamm$ _h nei!r ! c\rage nor ! physical /r5g? = su* /rong measures4 ,g5tle p]suasion _h no effect on ! brute1 & he sudd5ly end$ 8 argum5ts ) my model by giv+ h] a viol5t slap on h] *eek4 ,he !n ru%$ across to :]e ,i 0 sitt+ & r\ghly sat d[n beside me4 ,i 0 new to ,cairo !n & c\ld n und]/& :at he said1 & ,i put my mat]ials aside be=e attempt+ to rid myself ( my unpleasant neighb\r4 ,lean+ ov] me he /uck 8 f+]s "r on to my draw+1 & 0 rew>d$ by a bl[ 9 8 ribs :i* s5t him sprawl+ on to ! road4 ,t 0 "o = t\*+ my draw+ & two = ! slap on ! woman's *eek4 ,p]sonal c\rage is n a *>act]i/ic ( ! ,egyptians2 b :5 !y #8see r$1' z !y describe x1 !y become l rav+ madm54 ,a cr[d collect$ be=e ! man _h h>dly pick$ himself up1 & ,i did n at once "k :at ! attitude ( ! cr[d t[>ds myself might be4 ,mohamm$'s p]suasive p[]s 7 ( good s]vice n[1 & sev]al onlook]s held back ! man1 :o made frantic ef=ts to get at me4 ,he !n ran back to ! %op1 & pick+ up ! ?icke/ piece ( sug>-cane1 he yell$ out 8 curses & made ano!r ru% at me4 ,! cr[d seem$ happily to side ) ! ,nusranee1 or possibly wi%$ to prev5t ! ,moslem f gett+ into fur!r tr\ble4 ,h[ev] t might h be51 ! man 0 well gu>d$ until ,i c\ld get away4 ,mohamm$ _h d\btless be5 ( great s]vice to me2 he _h mo/ likely li$ to ! cr[d t ,i 0 a nephew ( ,"l ,crom]'s1 or son-9-law to ! head ( ! police1 z ,i f\nd out on lat] occasions t he _h inspir$ a c]ta9 respect = me by simil> falsehoods4 ,be ?is z x may1 ,i 0 =tunate to h got out ( ! r[ z well z ,i _h4 ,b :y %\ld ,mohamm$ h be5 s al>m$ :5 ,i insi/$ on 8 go+ ) me to ! ne>e/ police-c\rt8 ,he 0 ab\t to turn tail :5 we rea*$ ! entrance2 ,i 01 h[ev]1 9 no mood to argue ! matt]--he %\ld ei!r come 9 or leave my s]vice4 ,! ,moslem magi/rate & 8 cl]ks =tunately spoke ,fr5*1 & ,i 0 able to /ate my case4 ,!y que/ion$ ,mohamm$ 9 ,arabic1 & he1 hav+ got ov] 8 fe>s ( ! police-c\rt1 gave a fair acc\nt ( :at _h tak5 place4 ,i 0 assur$ t ! man w\ld be f\nd1 & t ,i %\ld he> aga9 f !m be=e long4 ,i return$ ! next day to ! fruit-/all1 & made "s comp5sation to ! woman = ! slap on h] *eek ( :i* ,i _h be5 ! innoc5t cause2 b no?+ w\ld p]suade h] to sit to me any m4 ,:5 ,i got to "w %e clos$ up h] %op & dep>t$4 ,i consol$ myself1 :ile ,i put 9 ! detail ( ! mu%rbiyeh oriel :i* project$ ov] h] clos$ %utt]s1 t ! solatium ,i _h giv5 h] w\ld m ?an cov] any loss ( cu/om dur+ a ,ramadan morn+4 ,:5 an ,arab 9 ! poor] qu>t]s buys an orange1 x is = imm$iate consumption4 ,to be se5 buy+ "o1 unless j be=e or aft] ! gun ann\nces ! sett+ ( ! sun1 w\ld awak5 suspicions z to ! or?odoxy ( ! pur*as]4 ,a /ray ,jew or ,copt might turn up z a cu/om]2 b ! *ances 7 slight1 z we 7 f> f ei!r ! ,jewi% or ,coptic qu>t]s4 ,i _h to f9i% my fruit-%op z be/ ,i c\ld f o!r /udies1 & f9d ano!r woman to help me to f9i% ! figure4 ,days w5t by1 & ,i he>d no?+ fur!r ab\t my aggressor1 & conclud$ t ei!r he _h n be5 f\nd1 or t my /atem5t _h be5 pigeon-hol$1 & its exi/5ce =gott54 ,i 0 anyh[ s+ul>ly free f int]ruptions :5 ,i work$ 9 ! /reet :]e ,i _h be5 mole/$1 & did n mu* m9d if ,i he>d no m ab\t x4 ,aft] a =tnight or s1 ,i receiv$ a lett] f ! ,briti% consulate1 tell+ me to appe> at ! police-c\rt on su* & su* a day4 ,i w5t at ! appo9t$ "t1 & wait$ 9 ! magi/rate's (fice until my case %\ld come on4 ,! cl]k 0 pleas$ to air 8 ,fr5*1 & tell me ab\t ! prison]1 & ! puni%m5t he w\ld probably und]go4 ,_h he call$ me a ,kelb8 seem$ a matt] ( great import4 ,he _h probably call$ me ! #8son ( a dog'2 b ,i 0 m conc]n$ at ! "t z to :at he w\ld d ) ! ?ick cane ?an hurt by ^! reflections on my p>5tage4 ,i 0 ask$ if ,i w\ld g into ! hall & see ! man1 & ,i did s4 ,i n only f\nd him !re1 9 ! cu/ody ( a policeman1 b ,i 0 introduc$ to a cr[d ( 8 relations4 ,"o & all besee*$ me to let him (f1 & ,mohamm$ told a woeful tale ( h[ _m 7 dep5d5t on ! loaf]'s e>n+s4 ,! />vation ( a num]\s (fspr+ w\ld be laid to my acc\nt %\ld ! prison] be prev5t$ f loaf+ 9 8 own p>ticul> mann]4 ,! te>s ( 8 "m _h "s effect--b :at c\ld ,i d8 ,i did n run ?is %[1 ,i got ,mohamm$ to expla91 & ! decision mu/ re/ ) ! magi/rate4 ,i w\ld1 h[ev]1 make z light ( ! case z ,i c\ld1 see+ t x 0 dur+ ,ramadan t x happ5$4 ,!re be+ no skirt to my g>m5ts1 ! old "m _h a try at kiss+ ! hem ( my tr\s]s1 & z to ! prison] himself1 ,i c\ld h>dly recognise 9 ! poor la*rymose creature ! furi\s ruffian ( ! fruit-/all4 ,! result ( all ?is plead+ put me 9 ! unusual position 7:5 our case 0 call$7 ( advocate = ! def5ce r ?an t ( ! prosecutor4 ,:5 ! man got (f ) sixte5 days1 ,i _h to slip away quickly to avoid ! m>ks ( gratitude f 8 relations4 ,! "p :i* /ruck me z odd 0 t none ( 8 s5t5ce 0 due to 8 viol5t slap ( ! poor woman's *eek4 ,%e 0 n 8 wife1 ,i expla9$ to ! cl]k :ile ,i wait$ 9 ! (fice4 #8,!re _h be5 matrimonial relations ( a sort1' he expla9$1 & he seem$ to hold t t might cov] 8 "r to adm9i/] corporal puni%m5t4 ,x 0 my fir/ season 9 ,egypt1 s ,i _h /ill mu* to le>n4 ,_h ! sixte5 days ( my aggressor's conf9em5t be5 pass$ :ile ! fa/ la/$1 x w\ld h be5 a light s5t5ce4 ,b ,ramadan 0 n[ f> sp5t1 & ! t]m la/$ ov] ! holidays ( ! ,less] ,beiram4 ,t mu/ h be5 a bitt] pill = him to swall[1 = !re are great rejoic+s & fea/+s on ! fir/ day ( ,%auwl4 ,except ^? "u lock & key1 few ,arabs sit d[n to a meal :]e a bit ( mutton does n enri* _! /ew4 ,"s mon?s aft]1 :ile ,i pass$ ?r\gh ! /reet ( my fruit-%op1 ,i notic$ a man smil+ at me1 & mak+ 8 salaams2 ,i seem$ to rememb] 8 face1 ?\gh ,i c\ld n q place him4 ,i ask$ ,mohamm$ :o my acqua9tance might be1 & he said1 #8,d y n rememb] ! man y _h put 9 prison8' ,i h met ) _m cases s9ce1 :]e an ,egyptian has be5 ju/ly puni%$1 & has %[n z little res5tm5t4 ,i h ask$ l>ge employ]s ( lab\r z to :e!r any spiteful action ev] foll[$ to ! ma/] :o _h s5t "o ( 8 m5 to ! lock-up4 ,i 0 told t acts ( v5geance 7 common en\gh2 b nev] 9 a case :]e puni%m5t 0 m]it$4 ,!y are n sl[ to wra?1 b ! sun seldom goes d[n on _! ang]4 ,i h kn[n cases1 h[ev]1 :]e "s fellah hav+ be5 grossly *eat$1 & n be+ able to get ju/ice 9 ! c\rts1 has nurs$ 8 rev5ge = a long :ile4 ,a burn+ /ack or a light$ ?at* may be s long aft] ! fir/ wrong t suspicion may fall on o!rs ?an ! inc5di>y4 #8,nev] hurry y\r rev5ge2 x w be j z sweet 9 two ye>s' "t1' is a say+ among/ ! fellahe52 b no?+ b ! grosse/ inju/ice w excite ?is passion 9 s light-he>t$ a p4 ,x is a matt] ( congratulation to e "o 9 ,mohamm$an c\ntries1 :e!r he be a foll[] ( ! ,prophet or n1 :5 ! fe/ivities ( ,%auwl ann\nce t ! fa/ ( ,ramadan is ov]4 ,! /reets are full ( col\r dur+ ! fir/ days ( ! mon? ( ,%auwl4 ,p>5ts take _! *ildr5 f h\se to h\se to %[ !m (f 9 _! new g>m5ts2 = all :o c possibly af=d x ca/ (f _! old clo!s at ! end ( ! fa/ & appe> 9 new ones to enjoy ! fea/4 ,primitive m]ry-g-r\nds are erect$ 9 ! vacant spaces1 & ! v>i\s eatables appropriate to ! ,little ,beiram are on sale ev]y:]e4 ,! ri* give ( _! sub/ance to ! ne$y1 & happy faces contra/ pleasantly ) ! sadd5$ looks s frequ5t dur+ ! great fa/4 ,!re is a pause 9 ! fe/ivals dur+ ! mon? ( el-,kaadeh1 :i* foll[s ,%auwl1 & el-,heggeh1 :i* is ! la/ mon? ( ! ,mohamm$an ye>1 makes up = ?is 9 ! excitem5ts p]ta9+ to ! ,mekka pilgrimage4 ,! ,great ,beiram1 or ! #8,e$ el-,kebir1' z x is call$ by ! ,egyptians1 falls on ! t5? day & x la/s dur+ ! ?ree foll[+ ones4 ,its adv5t is noticeable f ! flocks ( %eep & goats & also ! buffaloes :i* ent] ,cairo f ! f]tile pla9s ( ! ,delta4 ,%eep are br\ght r\nd to ! baza>s to sell to ! m]*ants :o may n wi% to att5d ! m>kets1 & !y are frequ5tly to be se5 te!r$ outside ! /alls 9 ! poor] qu>t]s1 :]e !y are fatt$ = ! sacrifice :i* takes place at ! same h\r z ! "o (f]$ up by ! pilgrims at ,mekka4 ,almsgiv+ is an important duty & is well obs]v$ 9 ! ,mohamm$an _w3 on ! t5? day ( el-,heggeh ^? :o _c af=d a %eep p>take ( ! sacrificial (f]+s ( _! well-to-d neighb\rs4 ,! new g>m5ts ( ! ,less] ,beiram appe> aga9 on ! great] fe/ival1 & ! gaily col\r$ dresses ( ! *ildr5 once m enliv5 ! /reets4 ,= ?ree days all bus9ess is at a /&/ill1 & m]ry-mak+ & religi\s ex]cises g on all ! :ile4 ,on ! ?ird night x is usual to visit ! tombs ( ! deceas$ relatives--a less m\rnful end+ to ! fe/ivities ?an might be suppos$4 ,! approa*es to ! cemet]ies are gay ) boo?s & t5ts1 rigg$ up ei!r = ent]ta9m5ts or = religi\s zikrs4 ,%\ld ! fe/ival fall dur+ ! hot season ! tomb visit+ is some:at ( an all-night picnic4 ,moh>ram is ! mon? :i* foll[s ! la/1 & ) x beg9s ! ,mohamm$an ye>4 ,! t5? day is call$ ! ,a%ura1 & an ev5t :i* takes place on ! ev5+ ( t day is n easily =gott5 by any /rang]s :o may happ5 to h witness$ x4 ,! ,%eeas 9 ,cairo 7mo/ly ,p]sians7 !n commemorate ! dea? ( ,husseyn1 ! tw9 bro!r ( ,hassan & gr&son ( ! ,prophet4 ,!y claim t z ,hassan _h di$1 ! succession %\ld h cont9u$ ?r\gh ,husseyn & 8 son1 ,ali ,akb>1 aft] him2 :]eas ! ,sunnees claim t z ,abubekr 0 *os5 by ! ,prophet himself z 8 successor1 ,abubekr's desc5dants _h a claim prior to t ( ,mohamm$'s actual blood relations4 ,?is caus$ ! great split 9 ! ,mohamm$an _w4 ,! ,sunnees rev]e ! memory ( ! tw9 bro!rs1 & ! fe/ival :i* takes place on _! bir?day is "o ( ! great ev5ts 9 or?odox ,egypt4 ,! ,%eeas commemorate ! day ( ,husseyn's dea?1 :i* he met on ! field ( ,k]bala :ile fight+ ! usurp] ( 8 rights to ! ,khalifate4 ,t !y %\ld d s 9 ,p]sia is easily und]/ood2 b t !y %\ld be all[$ to p>ade ! /reets ( ,cairo & proclaim _! h]esy to ! cr[ds ( or?odox ,sunnees1 speaks well = ! tol]ation ( ! latt]4 ,x is true t ! police rope ! /reets ?r\gh :i* ! procession passes1 & a l>ge body ( !m gu>d ! processioni/s f mole/ation4 ,b 7 ! fanaticism ( ! populace really /irr$1 ! ev5ts :i* ,i witness$ c\ld nev] take place4 ,i got a seat 9 a c(fee-%op close to ! ,hasaneyn mosque ab\t an h\r aft] sunset2 & al?\gh ! ,p]sians w\ld n be all[$ to ent] ! mosque itself1 ,i felt sure t _! en?usiasm w\ld be /irr$ to ! highe/ pit* :5 !y pass$ by ! %r9e :]e ! head ( ,husseyn is said to be buri$4 ,cr[ds ( p await$ alongside ! r\te :i* ! ,%eeas w\ld take2 ! display ( s mu* h]esy seem$ to tr\ble !m v little1 &1 l myself1 !y look$ =w>d to an ev5+'s ent]ta9m5t4 ,! /reet 0 n light$ up z on ! day ( ! bir? ( ! tw9 bro!rs1 s t ! light :i* pres5tly appe>$ at ! fur!r end ( ! /reet attract$ ! att5tion ( e "o at once4 ,a numb] ( flam+ cressets lit up ! grey h\ses :]e ! procession turn$ f out ! ,m\sky into ! ,hasaneyn /reet4 ,z x approa*$1 ! %ort j]ky *orus ( ! m5 0 m (t5 repeat$3 #8,hassan1 ,husseyn6 ,hassan1 ,husseyn6' ,! %\ts got wild] & m frequ5t z ! procession drew ne> to ! mosque4 ,! fir/ to pass u 0 a man on horseback1 :o h>angu$ ! cr[d dur+ an int]val 9 ! *orus4 ,he told ( h[ ! "y ,husseyn di$ 9 fight+ = 8 fai? & aga9/ ! usurp] ( 8 ?rone4 ,! cr[d seem$ z little incl9$ to contradict him z ,i 01 al?\gh a few murmurs ( diss5t came f "s :o sat on ! b5* beside me4 ,! m5 :o c>ri$ ! flam+ cressets foll[$ next1 & !n sev]al m\nt$ policem54 ,^! 7 n necess>ily ,%eeas1 b 7 !re to pres]ve ! h]etics f any ho/ile demon/rations on ! "p ( onlook]s4 ,a numb] ( m5 c>ry+ tall bann]s & o!rs ) m cressets foll[$ ! gu>dians ( ! law4 ,two l$ horses betwe5 a long d\ble file ( ,p]sians c>ry+ lant]ns 7 ! next objects ( int]e/1 = ^! horses repres5t$ ! tw9 sons ( ,ali1 :o bo? 7 kill$ :ile m\nt$ on _! /e$s4 ,! ev]-increas+ noise at ! fur!r end ( ! procession prep>$ me some:at = an excit+ sc5e2 b ,i h>dly expect$ ! gruesome sight :i* n[ foll[$4 ,a numb] ( m51 "s half-clad & o!rs 9 long :ite g>m5ts1 7 lit]ally /ream+ ) blood4 ,!y c>ri$ nak$ swords1 ) :i* !y occasionally sla%$ _! =eheads1 & ! :ite g>m5ts :i* caught ! jets ( blood seem$ z if !y _h be5 worn ) ! purpose ( mak+ ! sight m gha/ly4 ,"s sway$ z if ab\t to fall1 & _h h>dly any voice left to %\t ! names ( _! h]oes4 ,o!rs1 9 a /ate ( fr5zy1 br&i%$ _! swords & %\t$1 #8,hassan6 ,husseyn6' ,we 7 s ne> "s ( ^! m5 9 ! n>r[ /reet t ,i _h to )draw my legs s z n to t\* _! blood-/a9$ g>m5ts4 ,!y wore no turbans1 & ! awful w\nds on _! close-%av5 heads made me feel sick4 ,!re 7 "s )\t swords :o pref]r$ to flog _! nak$ bodies ) *a9s1 & ?\gh ?is ordeal may h be5 worse ?an ! o!r1 x 01 at any rate1 less gruesome to behold4 ,a small boy on a l$ :ite horse foll[$1 & blood ran d[n 8 face & /a9$ 8 :ite robes4 ,i felt indignant t a *ild %\ld take "p 9 ?is gha/ly orgy2 b a suspicion t ! blood _h be5 skilfully plac$ !re be=e ! procession _h />t$ cool$ my indignation4 ,i witness$ ! above "s fifte5 ye>s ago1 & x is possible t "s ( ! wor/ features may h be5 modifi$4 ,x might well be prohibit$1 = ^! ,%eeas are /rang]s 9 ! l&1 & no or?odox ,egyptian c\ld object to ! prohibition ( practices c>ri$ on by ^? :om !y consid] h]etics4 ,:5 ! ,dseh 0 /opp$ soon aft] ! ,briti% occupation1 x 0 a mu* great] int]f]5ce ) ! religion ( ! p1 = ! ,dseh 0 n a ,%eea practice2 x 01 on ! contr>y1 "o ( ! great ev5ts dur+ ! ,moolid en-,nebi1 ! bir?day ( ! ,prophet4 ,x 0 a b>b>ic p]=mance & _m p 7 s]i\sly injur$1 ?\gh to ?is day ,moslems h tri$ to assure me t :5 ! ,%eykh rode ov] ! pro/rate bodies ( ! fai?ful1 none 7 injur$ by ! horse's ho(s1 & all receiv$ great bless+s ?r\gh ?is act ( fai?4 ,!y h1 h[ev]1 quietly submitt$ to ! prohibition ( be+ trampl$ on1 & w\ld d\btless raise no objection to ! h]etics liv+ 9 ?is c\ntry be+ simil>ly prohibit$ f practis+ ! b>b>ities ( ! ,a%ura4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ,saf>1 ! second mon?1 ! return ( ! ,mekka c>avan may be expect$1 & we aga9 witness ! picturesque procession ( ! ,mahmal :i* has be5 describ$4 ,! ?ird mon?1 or ,rabeea el-,owwal1 is ! mon? ( ! ,prophet4 ,8 bir? & dea? are bo? said to h tak5 place on ! twelf? day2 & any "o wi%+ to see z mu* ( ! life & "* ( ! ,egyptians z possible w f9d some?+ ( int]e/ dur+ ! fir/ two weeks ( t mon?4 ,) ! exception ( ! ,dseh1 all ! c]emonies :i* ,lane describes z hav+ tak5 place 9 8 day may n[ be se5 dur+ ! latt] end ( ! t\ri/ season1 = ! fir/ day ( ! ,mohamm$an ye> #accj 0 on ! tw5ty-second day ( ,decemb] #aiaa4 ,?ree lun> mon?s add$ to t date takes u into ! middle ( ,m>* #aiab4 ,z ^! dates get a set-back ( elev5 days ea* ye>1 visitors 9 ! ne> future w n h to wait to z late a date to assi/ 9 ! fe/ivities ( ! ,moolid en-,nebi4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,!ban ,,home/ead ,if n press$ = "t & a c]ta9 am\nt ( heat c be borne1 bo? ,april & ,may are delightful mon?s 9 ,egypt1 always except+ ! days ( hamse54 ,ap>t f ?is fe/ival 7:i* !n fell 9 ,april7 mod]n ,cairo is beautifi$ ) its num]\s blossom+ trees4 ,! try+ hot w9ds cease e>ly 9 ,may1 & ?\gh t mon? is1 ,i admit1 a hot "o1 ,i consid] x & also ,june to be ! mon?s :5 ! pa9t] may d 8 be/ "w 9 ,egypt4 ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,m ,,religi\s ,,obs]vances1 ,,spr+',s ,,awak5+1 ,,& ,,! ,,cair5e ,,h\se ,,( ,,c\nt ,,zogheb ,! religi\s obs]vances1 ! fe/ivals1 & ! sup]/itions ( ,islam h be5 s fully describ$ by ,lane t x seems presumptu\s to attempt to d s "h4 ,b !y are s intimately associat$ ) ! life & "* ( ! ,egyptians t x is impossible to describe ! p among/ :om ,i h s long liv$ )\t ref]r+ to ^! obs]vances4 ,f ! fir/ day ( ! mon? ( ! ,prophet e /reet & baza> 9 ,cairo %[ "s signs t ! ,moolid en-,nebi w soon be on u4 ,b&s ( d]vi%es1 c>ry+ ! bann]s ( ! sects to :i* !y belong1 make happy incid5ts 9 ! /reets ?r\gh :i* !y pass4 ,%\ld we g pa/ a d]vi% tekke ! s\nd ( a zikr w be he>d2 & %\ld we be bold en\gh to peep 9 we may see a gr\p ( m5 sway+ backw>ds & =w>ds1 & he> !m repeat 9 unison ! "n ( ,allah till physical exhau/ion causes a pause4 ,que]-look+ fakirs beg = alms 9 ! "n ( ! ,prophet2 & :e!r !y h la9 l[ dur+ ord9>y times & only donn$ _! rags = ! great occasion1 ,i _c tell1 b !y turn up n[ l butt]flies on a f9e spr+ morn+4 ,x is pleasant to w&] ab\t ! /reets ( ! old qu>t]s aft] sunset4 ,_! usual d>k & des]t$ appe>ance is enliv5$ "h & !re by a display ( lant]ns hung b5ea? a m>vell\sly patt]n$ awn+1 & "o's curiosity is incit$ to "k ) :at ?rill+ romance ! %er is engag+ ! att5tion ( 8 audi5ce4 ,x is also curi\s to f9d m5 :o1 aft] ! religi\s excitem5t ( a zikr1 w sit 9 ec/asies 9 ! little !atres :ile ! s5su\s dance ( ! ghazeeyeh is p]=m$4 ,arabic music c also be he>d at its be/4 ,incompreh5sible at fir/1 z a /range language to ! =eign]1 x has a subtle *>m :i* increases z ! s\nds become m famili>4 ,a d>k lane1 :]e "o or two small lant]ns m>k ! entrances ( "s old mameluke palaces1 may ( a sudd5 be light$ at "o end by ! approa* ( a b& ( d]vi%es c>ry+ n[ flam+ cressets 9 lieu ( ! bann]s we may h se5 9 ! daytime4 ,i neglect$ ! old qu>t]s1 dur+ my la/ /ay 9 ,cairo1 :5 ! mon? ( ! ,prophet 0 on u4 ,! commonplace1 b luxuri\s1 mod]n qu>t]s 7 made glori\s by ! wrea? ( blossom+ %rubs & trees :i* adorn$ !m4 ,! ,esbekiyeh g>d5s1 :i* ,i usually avoid1 7 a great attraction to me !n4 ,a l>ge & r gimcrack grotto1 :i* ,i ?\ght a horror dur+ ! w9t]1 0 n[ almo/ smo!r$ by ! gorge\s blossom ( ! b\ga9villea4 ,seldom h ,i se5 su* an orgy ( col\r4 ,i made "s /udies ( x :i* ,i h s9ce f\nd useful2 b ,i %\ld !n h left ! b\ga9villea sev]ely alone4 ,i he>d ( a f9e display ( its blossom 9 ! zoological g>d5s1 :]e ,i knew t ! small entrance fee z well z ! o!r attractions w\ld all[ me to "w ) less ( an admir+ cr[d4 ,capta9 ,fl[] 7to :om we are indebt$ = hav+ made ?is collection ( ! fauna & birds ( ,africa "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ 9 ! _w7 gave me e facility = work+ 9 ! g>d5s :i* he controls4 ,besides ! masses ( b\ga9villea1 ,i f\nd ! boh5ia 9 full bloom2 ! hibiscus 0 9 fl[]1 ! po9ciana regia1 z well z _m o!r subtropical %rubs4 ,i />t$ a morn+ z well z an aft]noon draw+ ( ! b\ga9villea1 & mu* z ,i 0 tak5 by ?is display ( col\r 9 nature1 ,i f\nd t someh[ or ano!r ,i c\ld n get x to look pictorially "r on my pap]4 ,! purpli%-crimson f\ght unpleasantly ) ! gre51 & ) ! blue ( ! sky4 ,x is a pity2 = ! o!rwise delightful days ,i sp5t at ! ,gizeh g>d5s h ?is black m>k aga9/ !m4 ,! b\ga9villea _h h>dly %$ its blossom :5 ! jac>&a began to %[ :at x is capable (1 bo? z to its beauty z 9 ! difficulties x sets be=e ! pa9t] :o attempts to record ! delicacy ( its col\r+4 ,i ?\ght no?+ m ( ! b\ga9villea :5 ! jac>&a put on its spr+ g>m5ts4 ,leafless trees ( a graceful gr[?1 :i* may be se5 9 almo/ e g>d51 b :i* we simply label 9 our m9ds z trees )\t pay+ !m any fur!r att5tion1 become ea* "o an object ( admiration :5 ,april glides into ,may4 ,i _h g5]ally be5 9 ,upp] ,egypt dur+ t season1 or _h left ! c\ntry too soon to see ! jac>&a 9 bloom4 ,! *]ry-blossom _h attract$ me to ,japan ! previ\s ye>1 ,i h made /udies ( ! almond tree & ! pea* dur+ "o or two seasons 9 ,italy1 & ,i nev] fail to get at ! apple-blossom %\ld ,i happ5 to be 9 ,engl& 9 ,may4 ,ea* 9 its turn has fill$ me ) en?usiasm4 ,b !re is none to comp>e ) ! beauty ( ! jac>&a4 ,its local col\r is a pale violet1 b :5 ! decl9+ sun plays among/ its bloom-lad5 twigs1 x tells z a mass ( w>m p9k aga9/ ! turquoise sky4 ,! fe> ( a hamse5 increases z ! blossom gets to p]fection1 = two or ?ree days ( ! hot dry w9d may rob ! trees ( mo/ ( _! beauty4 ,! col\r is s diff]5t "u a s&-lad5 sky t x is hopeless to cont9ue a draw+ begun :5 ! w9d came f a bett] qu>t]4 ,%\ld ! hamse5 h done its wor/ be=e ^! trees break into blossom1 we may enjoy _! beauty = a =tnight or m4 ,:5 once ! gre5 buds %[ betwe5 ! blossoms1 we "k t 9 a day or two all w be ov]4 ,! rapidity ) :i* a leafless tree *anges to a mass ( gre5 is surpris+ to any "o :o has sp5t 8 ye>s 9 nor!rn climes4 ,:e!r ! ole&] 0 exceptionally f9e t season ,i _c tell1 b ,i _h se5 no?+ l x any:]e--& an ole&] 9 fl[] is a ?+ no "o ) any /hetic s5se w\ld pass unnotic$4 ,! scor*+ w9ds may h %rivell$ up "s ( its bloom1 b ! pr(usion ( buds 0 ev] ready to fill up any gaps left by ! fall+ petals4 ,:]e wat] is available any?+ seems to gr[ 9 ?is ri* alluvial soil4 ,fl[]s 7 9 pl5ty dur+ ! :ole w9t]1 b ! fl[] g>d5s 9 ,egypt attract$ me less ?an d ^? ne>] home4 ,! blacki% mud f :i* !y gr[ makes an unpleasant sett+4 ,! l>ge fl[]+ %rubs get _! moi/ure deep] 9 ! soil1 & little or no irrigation seems requir$4 ,cairo is b a few feet above ! level ( ! ,nile1 & ! roots ( ! l>g] trees probably rea* d[n to :]e a cont9u\s supply ( wat] is ev] available4 ,i c only acc\nt 9 ?is way = ! luxuriance ( gr[? (t5 se5 9 a dry & s&y c\rty>d4 ,x is difficult to say :5 ! rose season is at its be/2 we 7 seldom )\t !m4 ,! bu%es possibly take a re/ dur+ ! hotte/ mon?s ( summ]2 dur+ ! autumn1 ! w9t]1 & ! spr+ !y are h>dly ev] d5ud$ ( _! bloom be=e !y %[ signs ( r5ew$ ef=ts to break into fl[]4 ,! new suburbs1 :i* are ev] /ret*+ out to ! nor? & s\? ( ! mod]n ,cairo1 h little to attract "o4 ,ar*itectural /udies may be made !re to le>n :at to avoid4 ,i avoid$ !m altoge!r until ! blossom+ trees1 ! fl[]+ %rubs1 & ! gorge\s col\r ( "s ( ! creep]s attract$ me f "o o!rwise villa9\s h\se to ano!r4 ,!re are sc>cely any fl[]s to be se5 9 ! old p>ts ( ! city1 s t ! h\ses & mosques c\ld wait2 b n s ! blossom+ trees 9 ! g>d5s ( ! mod]n qu>t]s4 ,c\nt ,zogheb k9dly %[$ me ov] 8 h\se1 :i* =ms a /rik+ exception to ! _m ta/eless build+s 9 its neighb\rhood1 & x 0 a pleasure to f9d t ! plann+ & decoration ( ! be/ mameluke palaces c be adapt$ to mod]n requirem5ts if ! possessor has ! means & ! good ta/e to appreciate !m4 ,h]z ,bey design$ ! build+1 & ?\gh x is no slavi% copy ( any exi/+ old ,cair5e h\se1 x has ! _s & ! good ta/e ( ! be/ ,s>ac5ic "w4 ,i 0 also glad to see t x is possible to reproduce ! h&some tiles1 :i* ,i _h repeat$ly he>d to be a lo/ art4 ,"s panels :i* ! own] po9t$ out to me 7 made up p>tly ( old & p>tly ( mod]n tiles1 & ,i confess ,i f\nd x difficult to tell :i* 7 :i*4 ,connoisseurs 9 old fai5ce may smile at ?is1 & !y might h po9t$ out "s diff]5ces 9 ! glaze2 b 9 ! decorative effect on ! walls "o 0 q z useful z ! o!r4 ,i wi% !y _h be5 made 9 ,egypt1 = any signs ( a revival ( ! lo/ h&icraft w\ld be mo/ welcome4 ,! ,c\nt in=m$ me t "s 7 made 9 ,v5ice f patt]ns he s5t !re1 & o!rs 7 manufactur$ 9 ,au/ria4 ,nassan1 he ( ! lamp-%op1 mu/ h acquir$ a good cu/om] 9 my new acqua9tance1 = a great numb] ( 8 lamps 7 se5 "h1 & !y 7 beautifully adapt$ to ! electric light4 ,a fe> ,i _h be=e ent]+ ! h\se 0 t x might look !atrical & n suitable to pres5t-day use2 b ,i lo/ t completely aft] ,i _h be5 !re "s :ile4 ,!re 0 no affectation on ! "p ( my ho/ & 8 family to live z m$ival ,moslems1 any m ?an ! possessor ( an old ,engli% h\se attempts to live z did 8 pr$ecessors4 ,*airs1 tables1 books & all o!r mod]n requirem5ts 7 !re1 & !y look$ no m incongru\s ?an did ! unveil$ faces ( ! h&some wife & daught]s ( my ho/4 ,x 0 a bold v5ture1 & if a less able ar*itect ?an ,h]z ,bey _h _h ! design+ ( ?is home1 x might h be5 a deplorable failure1 in/ead ( an enc\ragem5t to o!r weal?y ,cair5es to try to d likewise4 ,! fir/ attempt at a revival ( ,s>ac5ic dome/ic ar*itecture 0 ! ,fr5* ,ag5cy4 ,i c only judge ( x f its ext]ior1 :i* is a dignifi$ & h&some build+2 compet5t judges h assur$ me t ! int]ior is v beautiful4 ,x is s+ul> t ?is noble attempt to build accord+ to ! traditions ( ,cairo's be/ p]iod w5t on :ile ,ismael ,pa%a 0 te>+ d[n f9e old mameluke palaces & de/roy+ "o ( ! mo/ picturesque p>ts ( ! old city1 9 ord] to con/ruct ! hide\s #8,b\lev>d ,mohamm$ ,ali4' ,?is act ( v&alism w5t on "u ,fr5* influ5ce :ile a ,fr5* ar*itect 0 con/ruct+ ! #8,maison de ,france1' z ! ag5cy is call$1 & endeav\r+ to give x ! appe>ance ( ! h\ses ! ,cair5es 7 de/roy+4 ,f9e old mu%rbiyeh "w 0 to be _h 9 pl5ty1 & ! furniture ( a f9e mosque1 :i* 0 p>tly demoli%$ 9 ord] to pres]ve ! alignm5t ( ! ,b\lev>d1 7 available to ! ar*itect ( ! ag5cy4 ,x conta9s1 !re=e1 mu* g5u9e old "w :i* 0 n procurable :5 ,c\nt ,zogheb rec5tly built 8 home4 ,x is z well t ?is %\ld be s4 ,age does little to improve ! woodwork1 ^: *ief beauty consi/s 9 ! design1 & ( ?is pl5ty ( examples rema94 ,x is a hopeful sign t all t ,i saw 9 ! ,c\nt's beautiful h\se c /ill be a*iev$1 provid+ an able ar*itect be select$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,jac>&a ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,d] ,,el-,,bahri1 ,,& ,,"s ,,incid5ts ,,:i* ,,took ,,place ,,dur+ ,,my ,,/ay ,,!re ,f #aije & onw>ds ,i sp5t five long seasons 9 ,upp] ,egypt4 ,i 0 engag$ dur+ a "p ( t "t 9 reproduc+ a s]ies ( eighte5? dyna/y bas-reliefs = f\r diff]5t museums4 ,by ! c\rtesy ( ! ,antiquities ,dep>tm5t ,i 0 all[$ ! use ( ! hut built by ! ,egyptian ,exploration ,fund1 :51 "u ! direction ( ,pr(essor ,naville1 ! excavations ( ! ,m5tuhoteb temple at ,!bes 7 begun4 ,i jo9$ ! camp dur+ ! la/ season ( its "w !re4 ,i sp5t a delightful w9t] 9 ! companion%ip ( f\r en?usia/ic excavators4 ,! excit+ f9ds :ile ,pr(essor ,currelly 0 9 *>ge ( ! camp1 z well z ! epo*-mak+ discov]y ( ! tomb ( ,que5 ,tyi 9 ! ,valley ( ! ,tombs ( ! ,k+s1 all t5d to make ! w9t] ( #aije-aijf a memorable "o 9 ! annals ( ,egyptian rese>*4 ,x 0 an excit+ "t2 b z ^! ev5ts1 z well z my own "w = ! museums1 has be5 giv5 9 detail 9 ,bel[ ! ,cat>acts1 ,i propose n[ to rec\nt "s ( ! incid5ts :i* occurr$ s9ce ! ,egyptian ,exploration ,fund broke up _! camp to c>ry on _! "w at ,abydos4 ,! reproduction ( ! bas-reliefs 9 ! ,hat%epsu temple1 :i* ,i orig9ally und]took r z an exp]im5t1 br\ght me num]\s commissions f v>i\s museums4 ,! "w 0 int]e/+ z well z lucrative2 b aft] "s mon?s ( x ,i ye>n$ to get back to my wat]-col\r draw+s4 ,i !re=e engag$ an arti/ 9 ,p>is to come out ! foll[+ season to assi/ me4 ,we !n _h ! hut to ourselves1 & we turn$ ! antiquities /ore-room into a /udio = su* "w z we _h n to d 9 ! temple itself4 ,we l$ ! #8simple life' "h ) a v5geance4 ,we slept "u ! canopy ( ! />lit heav5s2 we f$ on :at our ,arab cook c\ld f9d 9 ! village betwe5 u & ! cultivat$ l&1 supplem5t$ ) pres]ves ,i _h s5t out f ,engl&2 we rose ) ! sun & retir$ n v long aft] x _h set4 ,hat%epsu's temple rises 9 t]races a c\ple ( hundr$ y>ds f ! hut1 & ! f\ndations ( ! newly excavat$ %r9e ( ,m5tuhoteb lie beside x1 ! =m] m or less an enl>g$ copy ( its neighb\r ( twelve c5turies e>li] date4 ,an amphi!atre ( impos+ lime/one cliffs backs ! two ru9s & divides u f ! ,valley ( ! ,tombs ( ! ,k+s4 ,! great ,!ban necropolis spreads ov] ! des]t betwe5 u & ! cultivation1 & /ret*es "s two miles bo? to ! nor? & to ! s\? ( our hut1 ! va/ temple ( ,m$9et ,habu be+ at ! s\!rn extremity & ! road to ! ,valley ( ! ,k+s at its nor!rn end4 ,9 ^! two to ?ree squ>e miles ( brok5 gr\nd1 rais$ above ! limits ( ! ,nile's ov]fl[1 c we read mo/ ( :at is kn[n ( ! hi/ory ( ,egypt f ! ,middle ,empire up to ! ,mohamm$an invasion4 ,little is kn[n f ! decl9e ( ! twelf? dyna/y until ! rise ( ! ,new ,empire "s five-&-?irty c5turies pa/4 ,b ! /ory ( ! r5aissance dur+ ! eighte5? dyna/y1 ! conque/s ( ! second & ! ?ird ,rameses1 z well z ! gradual decl9e ( ! empire until ! =eign dom9ation1 c be read "h by ! ,egyptologi/ z 9 an op5 book4 ,( ! rule ( ! ,tanites1 ( ! ,libyans1 & ( ! ,e?iopians1 we f9d few] indications4 ,"s rema9s rem9d u ( ! second r5aissance dur+ ! late ,egyptian p]iod1 & we are also rem9d$ ( ,cambyses & ! ,p]sian dom9ation1 :5 we behold ! ov]turn$ colossal image ( ,rameses4 ,a beautiful little temple ( ,nektanebos c>ries u =w>d to :5 ! ,egyptians came by _! own aga94 ,! ,ptolemaic faade at ,m$9et ,habu1 ! beautiful little %r9e at ,d] el-,m$9eh1 & ! inn] sanctu>y ( ,hat%epsu's temple rema9 z examples ( ! "w done "u ! ,ptolemies4 ,if we g a mile beyond ,m$9et ,habu we f9d a little temple ( ,isis erect$ by ,hadrian & ,anton9us ,pius1 & be>+ ! inscriptions ( ,vespasian1 ,domitian1 & ,o?o4 ,! e>ly ,*ri/ians h left _! m>k 9 ,hat%epsu's %r9e to ,ammon ,ra2 un=tunately little ( _! con/ructive "w is se51 b a great _m oblit]ations ( beautiful eighte5? dyna/y bas-reliefs make u regret _! pi\s zeal4 ,until rec5tly a p>tly ru9$ ,*ri/ian *ur* /ood 9 ! c5tre ( ! second c\rt ( ! ,rameses ,,iii4 temple at ,m$9et ,habu4 ,misplac$ zeal on ! "p ( ,egyptologi/s caus$ ?is primitive place ( ,*ri/ian wor%ip to be cle>$ away s z n to ob/ruct ! view ( ! e>li] build+4 ,a broad] view ( ar*ology might h sp>$ su* an int]e/+ /ructure4 ,to settle d[n to a /ay ( sev5 consecutive mon?s 9 an arid wa/e1 surr\nd$ by tombs & ! crumbl+ rema9s ( a bygone age1 might /rike ! man 9 ! /reet z hold+ out a gloomy prospect4 ,! idea t ,i _h n be5 p>ticul>ly fav\r$ nev] ent]$ my head till1 aft] f\r or five mon?s pass$ "h1 ,i receiv$ a visit f a relative4 ,?is lady _h pick$ h] way on a donkey1 ?r\gh a mile or m ( pit tombs1 rock tombs & brok5 mausoleums1 on a hot & du/y day1 be=e %e rea*$ my hut4 ,aft] our greet+s %e rem>k$1 #8,y mu/ be f$ up ) ?is place by n[4' ,%e ask$ me to come & /ay1 z h] gue/1 9 ! huge new hotel :i* we c\ld see f "h outl9$ aga9/ ! ea/]n horizon4 ,t ,i _h become an object ( pity in/ead ( "o to be envi$ 0 a new & /range idea to me4 ,to give up my free life 9 ?is f9e air1 surr\nd$ z ,i 0 ) an inf9ity ( ?+s :i* fill$ me ) int]e/1 & my only regret be+ t ! days 7 f> too %ort--to give ?is up to loaf ab\t ! hotel at ,luxor amid/ a cr[d ( p ^: "o object is to kill "t--! v ?\ght ( x gave me a %udd]4 ,i tri$ to console my k9dly int5tion$ relative t %e w\ld ?9k bett] ( my locality :5 %e _h se5 ! beautiful ?+s ,hat%epsu's temple _h 9 /ore = h]4 ,! beautiful s]ies ( reliefs illu/rat+ ! exp$ition to ! ,l& ( ,punt1 ! pres5tation ( ,que5 ,aahmes to ,ammon ,ra & ! div9e bir? ( ,hat%epsu1 all execut$ dur+ ! be/ p]iod ( ! eighte5? dyna/y1 did less to expel ! gloomy ?\ghts ( my relation ?an did ! cup ( tea :i* my ,arab cook _h prep>$ = h]4 ,! frank admission t ! *ipp$ & crack$ examples ( an ar*aic art did n appeal to h] 0 refre%+1 & ,i began already to h my suspicions z to ! g5u95ess ( _m exclamations ( admiration ,i _h he>d4 ,e>ly ,egyptian art mu/ ev] rema9 z cavi>e to ! masses until !y le>n t art is n m]ely a slavi% reproduction ( "s natural objects4 ,!y w\ld d well to cr$it ^? :o h /udi$ x & :o assure !m t x is 9 tru? a v great art1 & t x well repays any intellig5t p]son :o approa*es x ) prop] rev]5ce4 ,! abs5ce ( p]spective & ( all =e%ort5+ 9 ^! l[ reliefs %ocks ! tyro1 & he may express himself t ! figures mu/ be wrong :5 an attitude is depict$ :i* x is impossible to hold4 ,! m9d1 h[ev]1 soon accepts ^! conv5tions & is free to admire ! wond]ful draw+ ( ! outl9e1 ! s5se ( proportion1 & ! m>vell\sly sugge/$ modell+ 9 a relief t seldom surpasses ! eigh? ( an in* 9 ?ickness4 ,ap>t f ! purely /hetic pleasure ! eighte5? dyna/y "w gives u1 x is a delight to be c>ri$ back to a remote age & to see depict$ n only ! gods & ! k+s1 b ! ev]yday life1 ) its joys & its sorr[s1 ( a p :o fl\ri%$ m ?an ?ree mill5niums ago4 ,! pa/ may seem too remote to awak5 mu* sympa?y 9 _m :o are always surr\nd$ by ! com=ts ( ! pres5t day4 ,b if we ent] into ! life ( ! fellahe5 :o dwell 9 ! villages :]e des]t & cultivation meet1 we f9d mu* 9 common betwe5 ! e>ly ,egyptians & ?is c\ntry-folk4 ,"s actually live 9 ! tombs1 us+ ! =ec\rts = _! bea/s4 ,:]e exceptionally int]e/+ wall inscriptions exi/ 9 ! anci5t sepul*res1 ! ,antiquities ,dep>tm5t has /epp$ 9 & protect$ !m f ! risk ( be+ damag$4 ,! evict$ t5ants !n build _! homes ne>] ! cultivation4 ,! "o ,i give z an illu/ration to ?is *apt] is a fair sample ( a mod]n ,!ban home/ead4 ,! dress ( ! p has alt]$ slightly f t ( _! remote ance/ors1 & ! camel 0 presumably non-exi/5t 9 ph>aonic times2 b little else has be5 *ang$4 ,! rude b9s made ( dri$ mud are ( e>ly ,egyptian r ?an ( ,s>ac5ic design4 ,! /one 9 ! "r-h& corn] ) :i* ! fellaha gr9ds ! corn1 f9ds its prototype on ! walls ( _m an adjac5t tomb4 ,! f>m+ op]ations h little *ang$ dur+ ?is great lapse ( "t4 ,! sc5es depict$ on ! walls ( ! tomb ( ,nakht3 ! m5 reap+ ) sickles1 ! wom5 glean+2 o!rs pack+ ! e>s ( corn or measur+ ! g>n]$ gra9--all ?is c be se5 n[1 9 any ( ^! villages1 & x is done 9 ! same simple & primitive mann]4 ,! types ( ! lab\r+ p are less *ang$ ?an _! simple g>m5ts4 ,! wom5 pluck+ durra or w9n[+ ! corn 9 ,nakht's sepul*re might h be5 drawn f any ( ! wom5 we n[ see c>ry+ _! pit*]s ( wat] f ! wells4 ,all are n[ foll[]s ( ! ,prophet save a few ,coptic ,*ri/ians2 ! wor%ip ( ,isis gave way to t ( ! ris5 ,*ri/1 & ! cresc5t has s9ce replac$ ! cross4 ,b _m a sup]/ition has surviv$ ^! *anges4 ,! m5tal *>act]i/ics ( ! ,upp] ,egyptian diff] v mu* f ^? ( ! true br$ ,arab2 x is !re=e rational to believe t ^! h be5 transmitt$ z well z ! ca/ ( ! features4 ,"s all[ance mu/ be made = ! inhabitants ( ,gurna1 ! long /raggl+ village at ! base ( ! necropolis4 ,ye> aft] ye> t\ri/s pass by its hovels1 & f a co9 ?r[n n[ & aga9 to ! *ildr51 a bre$ ( begg>s is replac+ an o!rwise h>d-work+ p4 ,! dem& = #8antikas' has caus$ a supply ( false ones1 or tempt$ ! m5 to /eal f ! temples :5ev] a fav\rable *ance pres5ts itself4 ,_m h lo/ ! habit ( "w 9 consequ5ce ( ^! evil influ5ces2 ?us1 on ! :ole1 ! ,gurna peasants comp>e badly ) ^? ( less frequ5t$ villages4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,bir? ,,colonnade ,,9 ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,hat%epsu ,) ! exception ( a few fri5ds :o 7 connect$ ) ! excavations1 or an occasional visit f acqua9tances :o 7 sp5d+ a season 9 ,upp] ,egypt1 ,i saw few human be+s beside ! ,gurna peasants4 ,i endeav\r$ to see ! be/ side ( _! natures1 & to make all[ances = ! c5turies ( bad gov]nm5t "u :i* !y h exi/$4 ,i f\nd !m n q s bad z !y are pa9t$4 ,_! +ratitude1 ( :i* ,i _h he>d a good deal1 c be expla9$ 9 two ways2 fir/ly1 hospitality is a duty ( ! ,mohamm$an religion1 & hospitality ( a k9d is expect$ & tak5 = grant$4 ,we are seldom grateful = :at we consid] our due4 ,secondly1 _m fav\rs conf]r$ by ! =eign] are little m ?an common humanity dem&s1 & he is liable to place too high an e/imate on :at he may h done4 ,:]e too mu* gratitude 0 n expect$ = "s s]vice p]=m$1 ,i g5]ally f\nd t ! fellah c\ld be z grateful z ! peasant ne>] home4 ,_! gre$ = money is a *>act]i/ic :i* ! t\ri/ _c fail to p]ceive2 b ! t\ri/ seldom meets any ( ! fellahe5 save ^? :o live ne> ! frequ5t$ #8sights4' ,! annual influx ( sightse]s has become z a crop1 to ^! peasants1 f :i* a h>ve/ %\ld be ga!r$4 ,9 _! eyes ! ,sauwhn are all millionaires1 &1 accord+ to ! ori5tal m9d1 ! ri* man %\ld pay out ( ! abundance ( 8 ri*es1 & n necess>ily 9 proportion to ! s]vices r5d]$4 ,our m$ival #8l>gess' 0 tak5 9 t light by our =ebe>s1 & corresponds v mu* to ! fellahe5's notion ( bak%ee%4 ,?is is n expect$ ( ^? :o live & "w among/ !m1 = #8,h[ c a man be ri* if he works daily ) 8 h&s8' ,bak%ee% f su* z myself w\ld be expect$ n z l>gess1 b m z a gratuity aft] a c]ta9 p]iod ( s]vice4 ,i rememb] a man ask+ :]e ! ,bel$ es-,sauwhn 01 t is1 ! #8,l& ( ! ,=eign]s4' ,on be+ told t ! ,engli%1 ! ,fr5* & ,g]mans1 :o 7 all ,sauwhn1 _h ea* a sep>ate c\ntry1 my que/ion] retort$1 #8,b surely y are n "o ( !m8' ,i told him t z ,i 0 an ,engli%man1 ,i 0 ( c\rse "o ( !m1 & ,i1 9 my turn ask+ him a few que/ions1 manag$ to arrive at 8 views on ! subject4 ,he 0 aw>e t !re exi/$ beyond ! seas a l& ( ! ,+leesi1 also "o ( ! ,frans[i1 & "o ( ! ,nemsawi2 b besides ^! !re 0 a l& ( ! ,sauwhn1 a ri* p :o app>5tly did no "w1 & annually migrat$ to ! s\? to visit ! temples & tombs ( ! anci5t ,egyptians = "s obscure purpose :i* he _h n q fa?om$4 ,!y are sup]/iti\s to a great] degree ?an ! pure ,arab1 :o1 to my ?9k+1 is less s ?an mo/ o!r illit]ate p1 & x w\ld be an int]e/+ /udy to sift ! sup]/itions :i* date back to ! ,pan!ism ( ! e>ly ,egyptians f ^? :i* h be5 import$ s9ce ! ,mohamm$an invasion4 ,!y seem to cr$it e =eign] :o lives among/ !m ) a c]ta9 am\nt ( m$ical k1 & :5 _! own treatm5t w h fail$ 9 its object1 any ,european liv+ among/ !m may expect a visit f ! suff]]4 ,a supply ( ,epsom salts & a solution ( boracic acid1 left 9 my hut by ! la/ t5ants1 did duty = mo/ int]nal & ext]nal compla9ts :i* 7 br\ght to me dur+ my fir/ season2 & ^! rem$ies1 l>gely assi/$ by ! antiseptic air ( ! des]t1 soon e/abli%$ my reputation z a hakeem4 ,! rem$ies be+ gratis1 & a bottle ?r[n 91 x is possible t ! bottle may h attract$ "s ( my pati5ts4 ,!re is a well-appo9t$ hospital at ,luxor to :i* ,i va9ly tri$ to p]suade _m to apply4 ,wild /ories ( imag9>y horrors practis$ !re1 & ! usual fe> t "s means w\ld be us$ to extract money f !m1 prev5ts _m an excell5t hospital f be+ ! bless+ x %\ld be4 ,a pa9ful case t 0 br\ght to my notice decid$ me to augm5t n only my m$ical /ores1 b also to ga9 "s elem5t>y k z to fir/-aid treatm5t4 ,9 e>ly ,novemb] scorpions are /ill active1 & are n hib]nat+1 z !y d :ile ! t\ri/'s season is on1 & only ^? :o live "h 9 ! hot season h any idea :at a pe/ scorpions c be4 ,! case 9 po9t 0 t ( a little girl :o _h be5 /ung1 & ! fa!r hurri$ r\nd to my hut to ask me = a rem$y4 ,! only treatm5t ,i _h !n he>d ( 0 to take alcohol 9 suffici5t quantities to c\nt]act ! poison ( ! scorpion4 ,z ! *ild 0 only elev5 ye>s old1 ,i put m wat] ?an :isky 9 ! bottle1 & told ! man to give 8 girl a teaspoonful ab\t e half-h\r1 & to be c>eful to keep ! w\nd clean4 ,i saw ! man ! next day1 & he told me t ! *ild 0 well aga92 h[ f> he _h appli$ ! :isky solution ,i c\ld n tell4 ,a suspicion cross$ my m9d t he _h probably drunk ! :isky1 & possibly rubb$ ! w\nd ) ! empty bottle4 ,! *ild1 h[ev]1 be+ well1 ,i ?\ght no m ab\t x till ,i aga9 met ! man1 a week or s lat]4 ,i playfully rem>k$ t ,i hop$ no m :isky might be requir$ = scorpion /+s1 & receiv$ ! />tl+ answ] t ! *ild 0 dead4 ,! man took 8 loss 9 ! resign$ fatali/ic mann] ( mo/ ,mohamm$ans4 #8,x 0 ! w ( ,allah1 & we mu/ accept t z all = ! be/4' ,i s5t a lett] ! next day to ! disp5s>y :i* is atta*$ to ! ,am]ican mission1 & begg$ ! man 9 *>ge ( x to supply me ) any kn[n rem$ies = ! /+ ( ! scorpion1 & also to k9dly write out h[ ! rem$ies %\ld be appli$4 ,my s]vant br\ght back two prep>ations ( ammonia1 "s l9t1 & detail$ in/ructions h[ to use !m4 ,!re 0 no m5tion ( alcohol1 s ,i tru/$ t my suspicions z to :o _h swall[$ my :isky _h be5 well f\nd$4 ,z we got into ,decemb]1 we he>d & saw little ( scorpions1 &1 dur+ ! season ( hib]nation1 ,i =got ab\t ^! creatures z well z ab\t ! rem$ies1 till a v rude rem9d] ( _! exi/5ce br\ght "o & ! o!r back to me4 ,:ile lift+ up "s /ones 9 ! ,ramesseum s z to arrange a level place to /& my sket*+-/ool1 ,i put my h& inadv]t5tly on a sleep+ scorpion4 ,he 0 soon awake1 & ! /+ ,i got 9 my h& caus$ ! mo/ acute physical pa9 ,i c ev] rememb]4 ,i 0 a mile away f my hut & ! rem$ies2 b rememb]+ ! fir/ in/ructions1 ,i endeav\r$ to tie my h&k]*ief tightly r\nd my wri/1 s z to /op ! poison1 :i* ,i felt %oot+ up my arm4 ,i c\ld n manage ?is ) "o h&1 & _h to call 9 ! assi/ance ( two ,am]ican ladies :o happ5$ to be view+ ! temple4 ,:5 "o k9dly ti$ ! h&k]*ief z tight z ,i c\ld /&1 ! %oot+ pa9s up my arm less5$1 & ! poison !n work$ its way to my f+]-tips4 ,my good ,sam>itan tri$ to induce me to m\nt h] ass & ride into ,luxor to see a doctor4 ,?is & ! cross+ ( ! ,nile w\ld h tak5 me ov] an h\r1 & ! pa9 9 my f+]-tips became too acute to make an h\r ( x ev5 ?9kable4 ,besides :i*1 ,i 0 ke5 on try+ my new rem$ies4 ,! treatm5t :i* my mission>y fri5d _h writt5 out work$ v well2 ! application ( ammonia to ! w\nd1 & ! drops tak5 int]nally1 soon _h "s effect1 & ,eb]s's ,bride ( ! ,nile1 :i* ,i 0 read+1 & on :i* ,i tri$ h>d to conc5trate my ?\ghts1 probably did "s good also4 ,a native acqua9tance call$ to sugge/ a cure4 ,i 0 to repeat c]ta9 words accompani$ by "s signs1 & ,i "k n :at else1 = ,i 0 n 9 ! mood to take 8 in/ructions 94 ,n wi%+1 h[ev]1 to ?r[ cold wat] on 8 good int5tions1 ,i told him t1 good z 8 rem$y might be1 ,i 0 afraid t x might act c\nt] to ! "o ,i 0 try+4 ,! cabali/ic words & signs might n agree ) ! ammonia treatm5t prescrib$ by "o :o _h no belief 9 ^! words1 & my fri5d admitt$ t he _h nev] ?\ght ( t4 ,i also pret5d$ to fall asleep1 & succe$$ !reby 9 ridd+ myself ( my well-int5tion$ visitor4 ,a peculi> /iffness hung ab\t my f+]-jo9ts = ne>ly a week & !n left me2 x 0 my left h&1 s x did n int]f]e ) my "w4 ,"o detail ,i _h omitt$ may be well to m5tion1 9 case a read] be simil>ly circum/anc$1 & t is1 :5 us+ "s %>p in/rum5t to op5 ! puncture s z to squeeze out z mu* poison z possible1 be sure to dis9fect ?is in/rum5t prop]ly4 ,i imag9$ a good wipe ( ! hypod]mic syr+e ,i us$ = ! purpose w\ld be a suffici5t precaution2 b a sore place :i* took "s "t to heal has taught me 9 future ei!r to dip ! in/rum5t into c>bolic acid1 or1 fail+ t1 to heat x 9 ! flame ( a c&le be=e try+ any surgical op]ations ) x4 ,no pati5ts f scorpion /+s appli$ to me aga91 = ! dea? ( ! poor little girl may h be5 put to my *>ge4 ,z an eye doctor ,i 0 9 great reque/4 ,dirt be+ ! *ief cause ( ! compla9ts1 a wa% ) ! boracic solution did no h>m1 & g5]ally did "s good4 ,"s br\ght bl9d p to my hut--r a lot to expect f a little boracic acid6 ,"s cases 7 probably only cat>act1 & q curable2 b say :at ,i w\ld1 ,i c\ld n p]suade ^! p to g to ! ,luxor hospital4 ,s9ce !n ,i he> t a memb] ( ! ,kh$ivial family has devot$ a l>ge sum ( money to s5d prop]ly equipp$ m$ical m5 to ! villages to see h[ f> !y c cope ) ! v>i\s eye maladies4 ,a wis] & bett] *>ity x is h>d to conceive4 ,_h my pati5ts dwelt 9 ! t[ns or on ! cultivat$ l&1 my cures might h be5 few & f> betwe54 ,! pure des]t air _h mu* to d ) my heal+s4 ,i m5tion$ ! case ( ! little girl :o _h di$ to a m$ical fri5d :o happ5$ to be sp5d+ ! season at ,luxor4 ,9 8 op9ion ! poison f ! scorpion 0 n ! cause ( ! dea?2 b :5 pick+ at ! little w\nd "s poison\s matt] mu/ h got 9 & caus$ blood-poison+4 ,i w5t out ! next season m fully provid$ ) m$ical /ores1 & our good doctor 9 ,haslem]e _h giv5 me "s h9ts z to b&ag+ a w\nd & apply+ fir/-aid treatm5t4 ,i _h n long to wait be=e putt+ my fre%ly acquir$ k to a te/4 ,"o ( ! gu>ds at ! ,hat%epsu temple trod ) 8 nak$ foot on a jagg$ bottle end :i* "s c>eless picnick]s _h left !re4 ,x 0 a gha/ly w\nd1 & ?\gh ,i told ! man ,i w\ld pay = a donkey to take him to ,luxor1 & w\ld see t he lo/ no wages :ile he might be laid up1 he w\ld n g1 & pref]r$ tak+ ! risk ( los+ 8 foot4 ,z all p]suasion fail$1 ,i set to "w to d my be/4 ,i wa%$ 8 foot & b&ag$ x ) ! antiseptic mat]ial ,i _h1 & s5t him home ) a broom/ick = a crut*4 ,he & ! broom/ick appe>$ e>ly next morn+ to h ! w\nd dress$1 & 8 visits 7 repeat$ twice daily = ! be/ "p ( a week4 ,! rapidity ) :i* t foot heal$ up made me d\bt z to :e!r ,i _h n miss$ my vocation4 ,no ,london surgeon c\ld h effect$ a cure z rapidly ) all 8 exp]i5ce & 8 up-to-date appliances4 ,b le/ ,i %\ld become too conceit$1 ,i reflect$ t ! ,london surgeon _h nei!r ! des]t air to op]ate 91 nor _h he z ab/emi\s pati5ts z m9e 04 ,no /rong dr9ks _h ev] heat$ 8 blood1 & 8 simple f>e 0 suffici5t = ! easy "w he _h to d1 b n en\gh to produce ! acids ( ! (t5 ov]f$ ,briti%]4 ,n[ ?is man 0 grateful = ! tr\ble ,i _h tak51 & ,i'll be b\nd to say1 m s ?an _m ,london hospital pati5ts :o take all t is gratuit\sly done = !m z a matt] ( c\rse4 ,he tri$ to %[ 8 gratitude "o day 9 a mann] ,i _h to decl9e4 ,i f\nd him %av+ ! head ( 8 fell[-gu>d ) pieces ( brok5 glass4 ,i wat*$ him = "s "t p]=m+ ?is dry %ave3 he w\ld break a piece (f a bottle & !n jag ! %>p edge ov] 8 mate's skull4 ,:5 ! edge 0 blunt$1 he w\ld break (f ano!r piece ( glass & cont9ue ! op]ation1 till f9ally ! head appe>$ z free ( hair z a billi>d ball4 ,x took ! be/ "p ( an aft]noon to complete ! job to 8 satisfaction4 ,x 0 pa/ ! season :5 visitors to ! temple might be expect$1 & "t 0 !re=e ( no object4 ,see+ t my hair want$ cutt+ badly1 my late pati5t s]i\sly (f]$ to %ave my head 9 l mann]4 ,i dislike long hair1 especially 9 hot wea!r1 b ,i ?\ght ,i might dislike ! brok5 glass /ill m4 ,nei!r ,i nor my assi/ant f ,p>is wi%$ to lose a :ole day by go+ to ,luxor to visit ! hairdress]1 & ! latt] decid$ t he w\ld let our cook try 8 h& on 8 head4 ,our cook appe>$ to be z exp]t a b>b] z ! temple gu>d1 & "t be+ r m valuable to him1 he cle>$ ! hair (f my companion's head v quickly4 ,ev5 ?is did n enc\rage me to submit to ! op]ation1 & ,i reflect$ t z my "t 0 m valuable ?an t ( a native ,luxor b>b]1 ,i w\ld get a b>b] f !nce to come to me4 ,i also pref] ^! arti/s 9 hair to use my own bru%es to any !y may !mselves possess4 ,! bru%es 71 h[ev]1 ( little use1 = !re 0 no?+ to bru% = a =tnight aft] ! ,luxor hairdress]'s visit4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,hairdress] ,i h no picture ( ! brok5 bottle s*ool ( b>b]2 b ,i pa9t$ "o ( ! craft1 at a rec5t date1 ply+ 8 trade 9 a /reet 9 ,cairo4 ,he _h a pair ( scissors to take (f ! ma9 crop1 & a dry %ave 7:]e no blood 0 spilt7 foll[$ ) a razor4 ,he got ?r\gh 8 job v mu* quick] ?an ! amateurs at ,d] el-,bahri1 b he did n d x z cleanly4 ,:ile ,i pa9t$ my /reet corn]1 ,i notic$ sev]al heads ! worse = ! razor1 & ?\gh "s talk z to ! *>ge = ! op]ation usually prec$$ x1 !re 7 seldom any compla9ts ab\t ! cuts 9 ! scalps4 ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,d] ,,el-,,bahri--7cont9u$7 ,f ! middle ( ,janu>y till ! beg9n+ ( ,m>* n a day w5t by b "s p>ties ( visitors pass$ ?r\gh ,d] el-,bahri to see ,hat%epsu's temple4 ,!y usually w5t to ! ,valley ( ! ,tombs ( ! ,k+s fir/1 & !n cross+ ov] ! m\nta9 :i* sep>at$ u f t valley1 we w\ld see !m defil+ d[n ! /eep incl9e :i* leads to ,cook's re/-h\se4 ,aft] lun* ! guide w\ld ru% !m ?r\gh ,hat%epsu's %r9e1 & !n />t !m (f to see ! tombs ( ,%eykh ,abd-el-,gurna2 ! ,ramesseum w\ld !n be visit$1 & ) h>dly a pause = brea? e "o w\ld rem\nt _! donkeys or get into _! litt]s to be ru%$ (f to ,m$9et ,habu4 ,! ,valley ( ! ,tombs ( ! ,que5s might !n be visit$1 & a long ride1 ) a %ort halt at ! ,colossi ( ,memnon1 w\ld take !m to ! ,nile1 to be cross$ aft] sunset1 be=e ! ,luxor hotels c\ld be rea*$4 ,i h no d\bt t mo/ ( ^! good p 7 ?ankful :5 s fatigu+ a day 0 well ov]1 & v[$ t no p[] on e>? w\ld ev] induce !m to g ?r\gh x aga94 ,a week w\ld b>ely suffice to get m ?an a cursory glance ( all ! sights :i* are cr[d$ into ?is "o long day4 ,! foll[+ day is usually devot$ to #8do+' ! ,luxor temple1 & be+ ru%$ ?r\gh ! ru9s ( ,k>nak4 ,^! p :o d _! sights at su* a giddy spe$ usually take "p 9 a t\r up ! ,nile organis$ by "s travell+ ag5cy4 ,a few well-advis$ ones rema9 at ,luxor till ! /eam dahabieh1 :i* has tak5 !m s f>1 picks !m up on its return trip f ,assuan4 ,?is gives !m "t to see at _! ease t :i* ! ill-advis$ ones _h m]ely be5 ru%$ ?r\gh4 ,x 0 amus+1 aft] "s mon?s ( solitude1 to see my fell[-creatures aga91 b be=e ! t\ri/ season 0 ov] ,i long$ to get back to ! usual quietude ( our valley4 ,! tripp]s w\ld arrive 9 bat*es ( f "o to two hundr$1 & add to ?is an equal numb] ( donkeys & _! driv]s--,d] el-,bahri on ^? occasions became a v]itable p&emonium4 ,=tunately !y g5]ally swept d[n on u at ab\t ! same h\r ( ! day--9 "t to lun* at ! re/-h\se opposite my hut2 by ?ree o'clock !y 7 driv5 (f1 by ! guide 9 *>ge ( ! p>ty1 to see ! ,ramesseum4 ,i _h to re>range my day & fe$ :5 !y f$1 & take a #8sie/a' until ! temple 0 empty once m4 ,until ! tripp] season we 7 almo/ flyless1 be+ suffici5tly f> 9 ! des]t to be away f t pe/4 ,! donkeys & ! dbris ( ! picnick]s br\ght ! usual sw>ms ( flies ) !m1 & "w 9 any ( ! temples 0 z bad 9 t respect z 9 ! baza>s at ,cairo4 ,! small] p>ties :o dropp$ on u unaw>es 7 mo/ to be fe>$4 ,i might be mak+ "s /udies 9 "o ( ! tombs1 :i* are airless en\gh at ! be/ ( times1 & be sudd5ly aw>e t a p>ty 0 approa*+ by he>+1 #8,dis way1 ladies & %5tlem5s1 to de ,tomb ( ,rekm>4' ,!re w\ld be no help = x b to pack up my traps & be (f4 ,if ,i return$ aft] ! cr[d _h be5 ru%$ (f some:]e else1 ! air w\ld be unbrea?able1 bo? f ! numb]s :o _h be5 !re1 & f ! ext+ui%$ tap]s or magnesium wire4 ,by ! end ( ,m>* ,i1 & possibly "s arti/ fri5d1 w\ld aga9 reign supreme at ,d] el-,bahri4 ,x is a hot valley1 = x is %ut (f f ! nor!rly breezes1 & ! cliffs ?r[ back ! rays ( ! sun4 ,by re>rang+ our days we manag$ to avoid ! wor/ ( ! heat4 ,we breakfa/$ at daybreak1 & we took our midday meal ab\t elev51 & f twelve till f\r we w\ld sleep 9 "s recess :]e ! sun's rays _h nev] p5etrat$4 ,aft] t1 & a cold ba? & "s tea1 we c\ld get to "w till sund[n4 ,! hut became unbe>able 9 ,april1 = x _h no d\ble ro(4 ,! coole/ spot ,i c\ld f9d = ! midday re/ 0 9 ! ,ptolemaic sanctu>y 9 ,hat%epsu's temple4 ,?is is cut deep into ! ov]hang+ cliffs1 & 9 ! hot season w\ld be "s tw5ty degrees cool] ?an my hut4 ,i put an ,arab b$ 9 "h1 & by ly+ ) my head to ! entrance1 !re 0 j light en\gh to be able to read myself to sleep4 ,!re 0 no fe> ( tripp]s n[1 & ! few visitors :o rema9$ on 9 ,luxor w\ld only arrive be=e or aft] ! heat ( ! day4 ,on fir/ ent]+ my tempor>y b\doir no?+ w\ld be visible on ! d>k walls2 b on gett+ accu/om$ to ! dim light1 r[s ( gods & goddesses w\ld appe>4 ,! hawk-head$ ,homs1 jackal-lac$ ,anubis1 & ! unspeakable ,m9 ( ,koptos 7 all "h2 also ! r\nd$ =ms ( ,eu]getes's ,que51 & ,maat1 ! goddess ( tru?4 ,! tig]-head$ ,sekhmet1 ,bellona's prototype1 & ,sobk ) 8 crocodile sn\t made a foil to ! r\nd$ features ( ,ha?or & ,isis4 ,a squeaky s\nd some:]e above w\ld make me aw>e t ,i 0 n ! only liv+ t5ant ( ?is sanctu>y4 ,bats h long s9ce discov]$ t x is fairly cool "h 9 summ]1 & n too cold 9 w9t]4 ,a noise l g5tle taps f a hamm] w\ld draw my eyes to a wide crack 9 ! wall1 & ar\nd two %9y little beads ,i w\ld make out ! =m ( a l>ge liz>d4 ,! little beads w\ld />e at me = "s "t1 & if ,i j mov$ my head !y w\ld disappe> into ! dep?s ( ! wall4 ,! bats l myself only us$ ?is place z a %elt] f ! heat1 & w\ld v5ture out t[>ds night to f9d a liv+2 b :at c\ld ?is liz>d 7a gecko1 ,i believe1 x is call$7 f9d "h to subsi/ on8 ,flies kept away f ?is d>k sanctu>y1 & except ! wat] ,i _h 9 my wat]-bottle no moi/ure f9ds its way "h4 ,! gu>ds occasionally %ot a snake1 b all ,i h se5 9 ?is temple appe>$ to be h>mless ones2 anyh[1 none ev] %>$ my re/+-place ) me4 ,x 0 diff]5t 9 ! enclosure ( ! ,ramesseum1 :i* is ne>] ! moi/ure ( ! cultivat$ l&4 ,i 0 return+ f my "w !re "o ev5+1 & pass$ close to a l>ge cobra4 ,x 0 curl$ r\nd a /one :i* 0 p>tly hid 9 ! scrub gr[+ ne> ! pylon4 ,i _h no /ick ) me1 or ,i might h be5 able to kill x4 ,x 0 ! fir/ ,i _h ev] se51 except 9 captivity1 & ,i 0 v int]e/$ 9 comp>+ x ) its num]\s pres5tm5ts 9 e temple 9 ,egypt4 ,to kill x1 ) z little risk z possible ( its kill+ me1 became my *ief wi% :5 ,i _h wat*$ x = "s "t1 & reflect$ :at a dang] ?is beautiful creature 0 to ! numb]s ( p :o roam ab\t ! temple4 ,:5 ,i pick$ up a good-siz$ /one1 x %ift$ its place & disappe>$ 9 ! scrub4 ,i came to ! spot on ! foll[+ ev5+ ) ,mr4 ,h[>d ,c>t] & a %ot-gun2 we also br\ght "s milk 9 a pan1 & plac$ x ne> :]e ,i _h se5 ! cobra4 ,we wait$ till d>k 9 ! hopes ( our bait attract+ x1 b ,i am sorry to say we saw x no m4 ,pr(essor ,fl9d]s ,petrie told me t he _h kill$ sev]al ) 8 walk+-/ick4 ,!y are easily de/roy$2 b if "o m]ely w\nds ! creature ) a bl[1 x may /rike its fangs into "o be=e a second bl[ c be dealt4 ,we told ! gu>dians ( ! temple1 & !y promis$ to try to %oot x4 ,i nev] he>d ( _! hav+ done s1 & ,i h a suspicion t ! prospect ( a gratuity f a snake-*>m] may h prev5t$ !m4 ,:e!r ?is cobra has s9ce he>k5$ to ! voice ( ! *>m]s1 *>m+ nev] s wisely1 & is n[ occasionally pull$ out ( a sack to p]=m on ! pavem5t 9 front ( ,%ephe>d's hotel1 ,i _c say4 ,i h nev] se5 z l>ge a specim5 9 ,cairo1 & ,i expect !y are tak5 :5 !y are "y4 ,z ?is is an art practis$ n[ z 9 ph>aonic times1 x may be ( int]e/ to he> :at ,canon ,tri/ram says ab\t x 9 ,! ,natural ,hi/ory ( ! ,bible3 #8,! art ( s]p5t *>m+1 ref]r$ to 9 ,ps4 lviii4 #d & ,jas4 iii4 #g1 is ( imm5se antiquity1 & is practis$ n only 9 ,africa b 9 ,india4 ,9 ! latt] c\ntry x is ex]cis$ on ano!r species ( cobra 7naja tripudians7 v l ! haje4 ,! res\rces ( ! *>m]s appe> to be v simple--! %rill notes ( a flute1 :i* are ! only k9d ( tones :i* ! s]p5t1 ) its v imp]fect s5se ( s\nd1 is capable ( di/9ctly foll[+3 &1 above all1 coolness & c\rage1 comb9$ ) g5tl5ess 9 h&l+ ! animal1 s z n to irritate x4 ,! *>m]s are n impo/ors2 = ?\gh !y may sometimes remove ! fangs1 x is a well-atte/$ fact t !y g5]ally all[ !m to rema91 & !y w op]ate on ! animals :5 j caught z will+ly z on individuals :i* h long be5 9 _! possession2 b !y are v reluctant to make exp]im5ts on any o!r species ?an ! cobra4 ,:5 a cobra has be5 discov]$ 9 a hole1 ! *>m] plays at ! m\? until ! s]p5t1 attract$ by ! s\nd1 comes out1 :5 x is sudd5ly seiz$ by ! tail1 & held at arm's l5g?4 ,?us susp5d$1 x is unable to turn itself s z to bite1 &1 :5 x has become exhau/$ by its own ef=ts1 x is put into a basket1 ! lid ( :i* is rais$ :ile ! music is play+1 b1 at ea* attempt ( ! s]p5t to d>t out1 ! lid is %ut d[n ^u x1 until x le>ns to /& quietly on its tail1 sway+ to & fro to ! music1 & ceases to attempt to escape4 ,if x %[s m re/lessness ?an ord9>y1 ! fangs are extract$ z a precaution4 ,in/ances are n uncommon 9 :i*1 ) all _! c>e1 ! juggl]s' lives are sacrific$ 9 ! exhibition4' ,we 7 surpris$ "o ev5+ by a mu* m al>m+ creature ?an a cobra1 & t 0 a rav+ madman4 ,my fri5d ,ersk9e ,nicol 0 /ay+ ) me1 & we _h ask$ ,h[>d ,c>t] to d9e ) u4 ,:5 ! latt] arriv$ )9 sight ( our hut1 he 0 accompani$ by a native :o f>m$ a l>ge "p ( ! l& betwe5 ! fr+e ( ! des]t & ! ,nile4 ,! man appe>$ v excit$ ab\t some?+1 & ,c>t] 0 do+ 8 be/ to pacify him4 ,z !y got ne>]1 we he>d him accus+ "s "o :o _h cut d[n a tree belong+ to him1 & he kept po9t+ to our hut1 & say+ t ! culprit liv$ !re4 ,nicol !n approa*$ ! man1 & ask$ :at ! excitem5t 0 ab\t1 & aft] "s conv]sation he call$ out to me n to let ! man 9 z he 0 out ( 8 m9d4 ,x 0 dusk at ! "t1 & my cook _h light$ ! lamp & set ! table2 we _h a lot ( inflammable mat]ial ab\t1 z ,i & my assi/ant 7 pack+ a l>ge numb] ( ca/s to s5d (f to ,am]ica4 ,a madman among/ our ca/s 0 ab\t ! la/ ?+ we want$1 besides ! dang] ( 8 upsett+ ! petroleum lamp4 ,! man ( a sudd5 dodg$ away f my two fri5ds & made a da% = ! hut4 ,i 0 j 9 "t to close ! door1 & my assi/ant & ,i _h to lean aga9/ x to prev5t ! madman f bur/+ x 94 ,x 0 a frail d\ble door & c\ld n long resi/ ! onslaughts ( our unwelcome visitor4 ,i manag$ to rea* a cr[b>1 &1 by /ick+ "o end 9 ! floor & jamm+ ! o!r "u "o ( ! transoms1 x made a p[]ful buttress4 ,f9d+ t t half ( ! door resi/$ 8 ef=ts too /ubbornly1 ! man ?rew himself on 8 back & kick$ 8 foot ?r\gh a panel & =c$ 8 leg well inside4 #8,hold on a bit long]1' call$ out my fri5ds outside1 #8we h s5t = ! temple gu>ds & "s rope4' ,i _h to dislodge t leg or we %\ld h _h ! :ole man 9 ?r\gh ! brok5 panel4 ,a sev]e ba/9ado on ! sole ( ! foot f9ally made ! man )draw x4 ,he !n butt$ ! door ) 8 head &1 mak+ sev]al ru%es1 ?rew ! weight ( 8 body aga9/ x4 ,ano!r panel _h j giv5 9 :5 ! gu>ds arriv$4 ,my two fri5ds !n clos$ ) ! man & call$ on u to come out1 & we also ?rew ourselves on to ! poor fell[4 ,! gu>ds h&$ u a bit ( rope1 b w\ld n t\* ! man1 n ?r\gh physical fe> s mu* z appreh5sion ( mak+ an enemy ( "o :o f 8 weal? 0 a p[] 9 ! village4 ,) 8 turban we p9ion$ 8 arms1 & we ti$ 8 ankles toge!r ) ! rope1 & !n sat on 8 body till 8 relations _h be5 s5t =4 ,we did our be/ n to hurt ! un=tunate man2 b z he 0 p[]fully built1 x 0 all we c\ld d to ma/] him4 ,:5 8 relations arriv$ he 0 suffici5tly exhau/$ to all[ ( 8 be+ lift$ on to a donkey & tak5 away into ! d>kness4 ,t same ev5+ we _h sev]al ( 8 relatives r\nd1 z well z ! ,omdeh ( ! village1 & !y all implor$ u n to let ! au?orities 9 ,luxor "k ab\t x4 ,!y w\ld keep him lock$ up till he 0 safe to be at l>ge2 :]eas1 if he 7 tak5 to ! ,mamr1 he w\ld be s5t to ! madh\se at ,k5eh1 & !re1 accord+ to ^! villag]s1 he w\ld be treat$ ) ! utmo/ cruelty4 ,n[ ! "r p]son to report him 0 ! ,omdeh ( ! village1 & we rem9d$ him ( ?is1 & told him t if any "o 0 h>m$ by ?is madman we %\ld report ! ,omdeh = hav+ neglect$ 8 duty4 ,! latt] promis$ to take all responsibility1 & said t we c\ld re/ assur$ t ! man w\ld nev] come ne> my hut aga94 ,= a c\ple ( days we _h peace1 = ! poor madman _h probably n recov]$ f 8 exhau/ion4 ,aft] t "t we saw him ru%+ ab\t ! neighb\rhood ) half ! village-folk aft] him4 ,we call$ on ! ,omdeh to tell him t he mu/ in=m ! au?orities at ,luxor1 or we %\ld d x ourselves1 & he promis$ t he w\ld s5d a mess5g] t v day4 ,i did n expect him to keep 8 promise1 & decid$ to write to ! ,mamr ! next day to report on ! madman z well z on ! ,omdeh = neglect ( duty4 ,?is "t1 h[ev]1 ! latt] did n lie1 & we he>d t "s m\nt$ police & a litt] _h arriv$ & _h tak5 ! man (f4 ,an important (ficial & 8 secret>y rode ov] to my hut on ! foll[+ day & gave u a good example ( ,egyptian r$-tapism3 age1 place ( bir?1 nationality1 pr(ession1 etc41 ( all ! witnesses _h to be tak5 d[n by ! secret>y2 ea* "o 9 turn d[n to ! cook & our mess5g] _h to give _! te/imony4 #8,did ! man call y names1 & if s h[ _m8' 0 "o ( ! que/ions put to me2 z if x matt]$ :at a madman said1 = ! poor man _h be5 pron\nc$ insane by ! doctor t v morn+4 ,x is also difficult to see h[ our ages & places ( bir? bore on ! subject1 unless "o _h ! m9d ( an ,egyptian & t ( an (ficial z well4 ,we he>d t ! pati5t _h gone out ( 8 m9d once be=e "s ye>s previ\sly1 & t he _h n[ be5 s5t to ! lunatic asylum at ,k5eh4 ,madness mu/ ei!r be quickly cur$ !re or else ! rum\rs--t bak%ee% 7if 9 suffici5t quantity7 c get a pati5t out--mu/ be true1 = 9 less ?an ?ree weeks ! man 0 9 our neighb\rhood aga94 ,he 01 h[ev]1 c>efully wat*$ by 8 relatives1 & we _h no fur!r visits f him4 ,to give "s idea ( ! dread ! fellahe5 h ( hospitals 7unless !y g z out-pati5ts71 z well z ( lunatic asylums1 ,i w repeat :at "o ( ^! peasants ma9ta9$ takes place 9 ! latt]4 ,he decl>$ t ^? ( uns\nd m9d 7 hung by _! heels f ! ceil+1 ov] a *>coal brazi]1 & !n holes 7 bor$ 9 _! heads to let out a valuable juice = :i* ! doctors got a l>ge price4 #8,a pia/re a drop1' said "o2 #8,no1 ?ree pia/res a drop1' decl>$ ano!r4 ,x w\ld be curi\s to trace ! orig9 ( su* an absurd /atem5t4 ,9 "s ( ! out-(-!-way places1 ,i am1 h[ev]1 sorry to he> t "s native doctors are n above extract+ bak%ee% f _! pati5ts4 ,i he>d ?is f an ,engli%man & 8 wife1 ^: words ,i _c d\bt4 ,a man :om !y employ$ z g>d5] 9 ,upp] ,egypt1 :]e !y 7 liv+1 _h to g to a hospital ow+ to "s accid5t to 8 leg4 ,! doctor :o att5d$ him said he c\ld cure ! leg1 b might possibly h to amputate x4 ,he !n ask$ ! pati5t :at he e>n$ & :at 8 relatives 7 wor?1 & on be+ told1 sugge/$ t a c]ta9 sum w\ld be necess>y to save ! leg4 ,! poor g>d5] c\ld n pay ?is1 &1 aft] ! usual b>ga9+1 ! sum agre$ on 0 obta9$ f ! pati5t's p1 & ! man soon left ! hospital ) bo? 8 legs4 ,( c\rse1 _h ! doctor's villa9\s behavi\r be5 report$ to high qu>t]s he w\ld h be5 summ>ily dealt )4 ,let u hope t he has be5 f\nd out s9ce4 ,any "o see+ ! poor hovels _m ( ! fellahe5 dwell 9 w\ld be surpris$ at ! atta*m5t !y h = _! homes4 ,dur+ my second w9t] at ,!bes we _h a poor ,nile1 & a l>ge portion ( ! l& ne> u _h n _h its usual %>e ( inundation2 besides ?is1 ! ,egyptian ,exploration ,fund hav+ />t$ _! "w else:]e1 ! ?ree hundr$ m5 & boys x _h be5 employ+ = "s ye>s pa/ _h n ?is "w to d4 ,x 0 !re=e a s+ul>ly bad ye> = ! p ( ,gurna4 ,"w at ! ,assuan dam 0 be+ paid at ?ree times ! rate ^! m5 got :ile ! excavations 7 on1 & n[ a great _m 7 /r&$ ) no means ( a livelihood4 ,x 0 useless to try & p]suade any to apply at ,assuan = "w1 ! idea ( go+ m ?an a hundr$ miles to bett] _! circum/ances 0 abhorr5t to !m4 ,x 0 pitiable to see ! numb] ( m5 :o appli$ = ! little "w ,i c\ld give !m 9 connection ) ! reproduction ( ! bas-reliefs4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! season ! view ( ! ,ramesseum 0 be+ spoilt by a great bank ( e>? t 0 be+ rais$ r\nd x z an encircl+ wall4 ,i 0 sorry to see ?is1 z x ru9$ ! effect ( ! temple f a di/ance2 b ,i _h "s consolation 9 ! fact t x gave employm5t to a numb] ( ! villag]s4 ,let u hope t a simil> am\nt ( "w 9 pull+ x d[n aga9 may be res]v$ = ! next bad ,nile4 ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,! ,,cross ,,des]t ,,j\rney ,,to ,,kosseir ,i propose n[ to break ! sequ5ce ( ev5ts dur+ my second season at ,!bes1 & attempt to describe a des]t j\rney ,i took e>ly 9 ,novemb]4 ,dur+ ! mon?s ,i sp5t at ,d] el-,bahri1 :5 ,i jo9$ ! camp ( ! ,egyptian ,exploration ,fund1 ,i 0 awak5$ e morn+ by ! fir/ light 9 ! ea/]n sky1 & daily saw ! sun rise above ! di/ant hills :i* %ut (f ! ,nile valley f ! ,arabian des]t4 ,! ,libyan des]t1 on ! ea/]n fr+e ( :i* we camp$1 /ret*es = two ?\s& miles & m 9 a we/]ly direction till x rea*es ,morocco1 t l& ( ! sett+ sun kn[n 9 ,egypt z el-,maghrib1 ! ,we/4 ,! #8call ( ! des]t' c\ld easily h be5 satisfi$ )\t cross+ ! ,nile valley2 b ! ,libyan des]t call$ me no fur!r into its tractless wa/es ?an to ! ,valley ( ! ,tombs ( ! ,k+s4 ,di/ance l5t an en*antm5t to ! view ( ! l[-ly+ hills betwe5 me & ! ris+ sun1 & z ,alice wi%$ to see :at w5t on 9 ! room beyond ! look+-glass1 s ,i felt drawn to ! l& :i* lay betwe5 ^? hills & ! ,r$ ,sea4 ,x 0 across t tract t ! ,!bans ( old j\rney$ to ! port ( ,kosseir to br+ back ! products f ! f> ,ea/4 ,beyond ^? hills gangs ( slaves 7 driv5 to dig = ! gold n[ f\nd 9 ! tombs ( ! ,ph>aohs--,k+ ,solomon's m9es are spok5 ( z be+ !re--& ! ,reh5u valley ( ! anci5t ,egyptians1 %ut 9 ) black breccia cliffs1 e*o$ to ! s\nds ( hamm] & pick1 :ile _m a /atue 0 !re be+ fa%ion$1 to be dragg$ d[n to ! ,nile & float$ to f>-away ,gizeh or ,memphis4 ,f ! e>lie/ dyna/ies "r up to ! pres5t day ea* g5]ation has left its m>k on ! rock surfaces betwe5 ^? hills & ! sea-coa/4 ,anci5t ,kosseir1 :i* rema9$ a port ( "s importance to )9 a q rec5t date1 _h (t5 be5 ! goal ( imag9>y j\rneys ,i _h made across ! des]t :i* lay betwe5 x & my pres5t camp4 ,imag9e my surprise :51 %ortly aft] ,i & my assi/ant f ,p>is _h settl$ d[n at ,d] el-,bahri1 ,mr4 ,weigall1 :o is ,*ief ,inspector ( ,antiquities 9 ,upp] ,egypt1 told me he 0 ab\t to take t des]t j\rney1 & wond]$ :e!r ,i w\ld c>e to accompany him4 ,i _h only to provide my own camel & to %>e 9 ! provisions we %\ld ne$ on ! way2 ! *ief exp5se ( ! tra9 ( camels & m5 to take ! t5ts1 ! wat]-supply1 & ! o!r necess>ies ( a des]t j\rney1 w\ld be borne by ! gov]nm5t1 z ,mr4 ,weigall 0 go+ to get in=mation connect$ ) 8 dep>tm5t4 ,mr4 ,*>les ,:ymp]1 :o _h come out f ,engl& ) me1 & ,mr4 ,ersk9e ,nicol1 :om ,i _h long kn[n 9 ,egypt1 7 also ask$ to jo9 ! p>ty4 ,none ( u wi%$ to lose su* a *ance1 & 9 ?ree or f\r days aft] fir/ he>+ ! proposal1 we m\nt$ our camels & />t$ f ,luxor = ! ov] & beyond :i* _h be5 my dream = _m a long day4 ,our c>avan consi/$ ( tw5ty-?ree camels1 f\rte5 ( :i* left an h\r or two be=e u1 to take our heavy baggage to t night's halt+-place4 ,we f\r />t$ 9 company ( ! %eykh ( ! camel-driv]s1 two gu>ds1 ,mr4 ,weigall's s]vant1 :o c>ri$ our lun*1 & an ,ababdi son ( ! des]t1 :o act$ z our guide4 ,we /ruck inl& = a %ort di/ance & !n took a nor!rn c\rse p>allel to ! ,nile2 we skirt$ ! fur!r side ( ! ru9s ( ,k>nak1 & %ortly aft] left ! cultivation to cont9ue our r\te on ! high] level ( ! des]t4 ,dur+ ! tw5ty miles ( our fir/ day's ride no?+ c\ld h be5 m dissimil> ?an ! c\ntry on our "r to t :i* we beheld to ! left ( u4 ,! contra/ 0 />tl+--! scor*+ des]t on "o h&1 & on ! o!r ! %ady palm groves on ! fr+e ( ! cultivation1 ) ! ri* d>k soil cov]$ 9 places by ! ,nile's ov]fl[ or j turn+ to gre5 by ! lately s[n crops4 ,yet ?is v contra/ is m *>act]i/ic ( ,egypt ?an any?+ else2 & x is ?is :i* mu/ h call$ =? ! say+ ( ,h]odotus t #8,egypt is ! gift ( ! ,nile4' ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,m>ket ,,on ,,! ,,edge ,,( ,,! ,,des]t ,we halt$ = lun* "u ! %ade ( ! tam>isk trees1 :i* seem able to gr[ on a slightly high] level ?an ! palms4 ,! %ade 0 m ?an welcome2 = sitt+ /ill 9 ! noonday sun is a v diff]5t matt] to pass+ ?r\gh x ev5 at ! g5tle trot ( our camels4 ,x 0 a beautiful spot1 = no trees h>monise ) a des]t backgr\nd z d ! tam>isks1 & ^! _h an especially massive & plumy leafage ( an ev5 m delicate grey ?an usual2 _! gn>l$ & twi/$ trunks seem+ a mute prote/ to ! poor soil 9 :i* fete _h =c$ !m to gr[4 ,we did n rema9 "h long1 z we wi%$ to rea* ! ,coptic conv5t1 ,m>is ,bughtra1 :ile !re 0 /ill daylight1 & !re we propos$ to pit* our camp = ! night4 ,?\gh ! sun 0 hot1 ! crisp air 0 s invigorat+ t :at w\ld be a v fatigu+ day else:]e is easily borne 9 ! des]t4 ,! motion ( ! camel is try+ till "o has got accu/om$ to x1 & a few miles w cause ! beg9n] an incr$ible am\nt ( /iffness4 ,!re be+ no /irrups1 x takes "s "t to le>n to rise & fall ) ! motion ( ! bea/1 & until t is acquir$ e /ride means a bump = ! w\ld-be rid]4 ,i _h unhappily n acquir$ ?is1 & felt r /iff & sore :5 ,i dism\nt$ = lun*2 :5 we halt$ at ! end ( t day's j\rney ! /iffness 0 positive pa94 ,i _h misgiv+s z to h[ ,i %\ld feel by ! "t ,kosseir 0 rea*$ & :5 long] h\rs 9 ! saddle w\ld be ! ord] ( ! day4 ,to lie d[n seem$ m pa9ful ?an to walk ab\t1 = on :atev] "p ( "o's anatomy "o re/$ t "p seem$ m pa9ful ?an any o!r--until "o tri$ t o!r4 ,outside ! walls ( ! ,coptic conv5t we came on our baggage1 & f\nd ! m5 already pit*+ our t5ts1 hobbl+ ! camels1 & boil+ "s wat] ov] a fire ( dry bru%wood4 ,we s5t "s "o to ,qus 7on ! outskirts ( :i* little t[n ?is conv5t is situat$7 to f9d ! prie/ :o c\ld %[ u ov] ! build+4 ,no monks dwell !re at pres5t & ! *apel is only us$ on ! day d$icat$ to ,sa9t ,bughtra1 :oev] he may be4 ,all t rema9s ( ! conv5t1 except ! *apel1 c\ld be se5 be=e ! prie/ arriv$1 z ! =tress-l wall :i* encircl$ x _h crumbl$ d[n 9 sev]al places4 ,a few cells 7 /ill ro($ ov]1 b = ! mo/ "p ugly ru9 _h disfigur$ ! build+s4 ,except :]e "s f9e columns or portals h endur$ ! we> & te> ( ages1 z 9 ! case ( "s ( ! temples1 a des]t ru9 is a depress+ sight2 no gr[? to hide ! %apeless bits ( fall5 masonry are !re1 nei!r moss nor li*5 give x ! beautiful col\r+ associat$ ) ! rema9s ( bygone /ructures4 ,a %r9e :i* may h crumbl$ d[n c5turies ago might h fall5 9 ! day be=e ye/]day unless ! des]t w9ds _h swept a cov]+ ( s& to give x a p>tial burial4 ,! little _m-dom$ *ur* /ill /ood erect amid/ ! fall5 masonry1 & :5 ! prie/ arriv$ & fumbl$ ) 8 wood5 key to loose ! bolt 9 ! pond]\s lock1 our expectations some:at reviv$4 ,"s tawdry objects ( piety %[$ t "s folks /ill rema9$ :o gave ?is place ( wor%ip a pass+ ?\ght2 b 9 ! o!rwise neglect$ int]ior ^! tawdry ornam5ts rem9d$ me horribly ( ! pat*es ( pa9t ,i h se5 on ! *eeks ( a corpse laid out = burial 9 ,portugal4 ,! simile may be f>-fet*$1 b !re x 01 & ,i 0 pleas$ :5 we _h gone ?r\gh ! f>ce ( giv+ ! prie/ 8 gratuity--call$1 to save 8 face1 #8= ! upkeep ( ! *ur*4' ,we f\nd our camp all prep>$ = u :5 we rejo9$ x4 ,! pack+-cases :i* s]v$ z a table 7 neatly set = d9n]1 & our saddles 7 arrang$ to d duty z *airs4 ,our two sleep+-t5ts /ood primly "o on ea* side ( ! small m>quee :i* s]v$ z a d9+-room4 ,weigall's s]vant 0 an excell5t cook1 & a long day 9 ! des]t _h prep>$ u to d ju/ice to 8 di%es4 ,! saddles make v good *airs :5 sitt+ is n a pa9ful op]ation2 !y are cov]$ ) %eepsk91 b ! ?icke/ fleece1 9 my condition1 c\ld n disguise ! h>d wood5 skeleton b5ea? x4 ,an air-cu%ion help$ matt]s a trifle1 ?\gh ! air seem$ h>d] ?an x usually is4 ,/iffness crept ov] ! bodies ( ! two ( u :o _h mo/ rec5tly come f ,engl&2 b on comp>+ our compla9ts ,i fanci$ t ,i _h m ?an my %>e--,i 0 m consci\s ( x anyh[4 ,:5 ! d9n] 0 cle>$ & pipes 7 alight1 we discuss$ our sev]al int]e/s 9 our des]t j\rney4 ,to ,*>les ,:ymp] ! birds we _h se5 along ! fr+e ( ! cultivation 7 ( ! greate/ importance4 ,we _h pass$ _m :ite ,egyptian vultures2 we _h also put up "s coveys ( cream-col\r$ c\rs]s2 ! des]t l>k1 ! s&-gr\se1 & des]t m>t9s _h all be5 se5 z well z ! famili> hoopoes1 ! black kite1 ! little owl1 & gre5 bee-eat]s--or %all we call !m blue1 = !y c be ei!r col\r accord+ z ! light cat*es _! plumage8 ,! ar*ological int]e/s 7 /ill be=e u1 & ?\gh ^! _h n be5 explor$ = "s "t1 records ( j\rneys 9 ?is ea/]n des]t h be5 left by ! ,g]man ,egyptologi/ ,lepsius1 by ,gol5is*eff1 ! ,russian1 z well z by ! m rec5t ,s*we9fur?4 ,its pictorial aspects appeal$ to ea* ( u1 & z ,i _h br\ght my sket*+ mat]ials ,i hop$ t !re might be suffici5tly long halts to all[ ( my do+ "s pa9t+4 ,ersk9e ,nicol is well v]s$ 9 ! habits ( ! w&]+ tribes :o pit* _! t5ts on ! high] levels :]e ! cultivation /ops %ort4 ,! ,ababdi & ! ,bi%>e5 t]ritories meet on ?is des]t highroad1 & we %\ld probably come across a few ( bo? "o & ! o!r4 ,z we 7 to />t soon aft] sunrise ! next morn+1 we def]r$ our topics ( conv]sation to ano!r occasion4 ,x 0 /ill d>k 9 our t5ts :5 we 7 awak5$1 because ! heavy baggage 0 to be got (f z soon aft] daybreak z possible4 ,! t5ts 7 l[]$ & /[$ away on ! camels1 leav+ u to pack our b$d+ 9 ! op51 & x 0 surpris+ to f9d :at a diff]5ce 9 temp]ature !re 0 :5 our canvas %elt]s 7 remov$4 ,x 0 bitt]ly cold1 & mu* movem5t 0 impossible 9 my case1 = ,i 0 rigidly /iff4 ,i /uck to a c\ple ( blankets1 & ) "s /raps improvis$ a primitive g>m5t2 my camel s]v$ z a %elt] f ! cold breeze & made a w>m back to lean aga9/1 :ile we squatt$ 9 a circle to h our breakfa/4 ,! blankets w\ld s]ve lat]1 :5 ! sun got up1 z extra padd+ to ! saddle4 ,our cross des]t j\rney began ?is morn+1 = on ! previ\s day we _h skirt$ ! cultivation to rea* at ,qus ! m$ival r\te f ! ,nile to ! ,r$ ,sea port4 ,we />t$ be=e ! baggage tra9 ( camels1 :i* w\ld ov]take u be=e we rea*$ ,lakta1 a small oasis :]e we %\ld sp5d ! night4 ,selim1 z ! cook 0 call$1 & our ,ababdi guide accompani$ u4 ,! =m] look$ a qua9t object1 seat$ on 8 camel amid/ pots & kettles1 photographic app>atus1 sket*+ mat]ials1 & any o!r odds & ends :i* we might require be=e ! camp w\ld aga9 be pit*$4 ,! ris+ sun 0 v beautiful2 :5 ,i h tri$ to pa9t x1 x has always ris5 & lo/ its ri* col\r+ too quickly4 ,?is morn+ ,i 0 conc]n$ ) ! sl[ness ( ^! proce$+s1 = until x rose well above ! di/ant hills ,i felt p]i%$ ) ! cold4 ,we c\ld pla9ly see ! cliffs ar\nd ,hat%epsu's temple1 "r across ! ,nile valley2 !y & ! ,!ban hills 7 p9k 9 ! e>ly sunlight :il/ we 7 /ill 9 ! %ade4 ,sl[ly ! light caught u on our high m\nts1 :ile ! soil b5ea? u 0 /ill 9 a blue grey tone4 ,look+ back aft] a :ile camel legs a mile long c\ld be se5 9 pale %ad[ on ! track beh9d u1 & by ! "t !y contract$ to a l5g!n$ silh\ette ( a compreh5sible =m1 ,i began to feel my blankets 7 m ?an ,i c\ld /&4 ,to unrobe on a trott+ camel 0 no easy matt]1 & to make ! camel d any?+ diff]5t f ^? ahead ( x 0 an impossibility4 ,i _h practis$ mak+ ! peculi> noise ( ! b$\9 :5 !y wi% to make _! bea/s kneel d[n--x spells some?+ l ?is1 #8ghrrr1' & is repeat$ at rapid int]vals4 ,laura1 z my camel 0 call$1 ei!r affect$ n to und]/& me or felt too great a contempt = h] rid] to he$ :at he said4 ,%e 0 v ne>ly rid]less be=e ! unrob+ 0 complet$1 & ,i am n sure t ,laura _h n t wi% 9 h] m9d4 ,:5 ,i 0 ne> l&+ on h] neck1 ,i ?\ght ,i saw ,laura's m\? work+ up t[>ds my boot1 :i* 0 h] way ( smil+4 ,i tri$ to fix ! blankets ov] ! saddle1 = ! wood5 skeleton b5ea? ! %eepsk9 seem$ pa9fully ne> p>ts ( my skeleton2 b ,i only gave ,laura fre% cause to smile4 ,! clatt] ( ,selim's pots & pans 0 n f> beh9d me1 s ,i yell$ out to ! cook to ov]take me & to /[ my blankets among/ 8 ironmong]y4 ,laura disapprov$ ( ?is1 =1 z ! clatt]1 clatt] beh9d me got l\d]1 %e quick5$ h] pace4 ,!re are no re9s to *eck ! creatures2 ! camel rope is m]ely fa/5$ to a face /rap1 :i* is held 9 place by a second /rap pass+ beh9d ! nape ( ! neck4 ,i lugg$ on to ! rope z h>d z ,i c\ld1 b z !re 7 no /irrups ,i %\ld h pull$ myself (f ! saddle be=e ,i c\ld h b5t ! bea/'s /iff neck4 ,n to be beat51 ,i plac$ my foot on h] neck1 & ?us got a suffici5t lev]age to pull h] head sideways till ,i c\ld see h] ugly pr(ile2 by ?is means ,i *eck$ h] pace suffici5tly = ! cook to ov]take me1 & ,i ?rew ! blankets amid ! pots & pans4 ,we rea*$ ,gebel el-,korn ab\t noon2 we _h se5 ?is hill = ! la/ two h\rs reflect$ 9 :at appe>$ to be a lake1 & z ?is effect ( ! mirage disappe>$ "h1 we saw x repeat$ 9 ! di/ance beyond4 ,?ree r\tes to ,kosseir jo9 at ?is po9t2 ! m$ival "o we _h be5 on 0 a "p ( ! highway :i* ! c>avans took s9ce ! ,mohamm$an invasion & until ,k5eh eclips$ ,qus z a ,nilotic t[n4 ,! ,k5eh r\te1 />t+ "s tw5ty miles fur!r d[n ! riv]1 is /ill us$ by ! ,arabs1 :o br+ camels f ,arabia to b>t] 9 ! ,nile valley4 ,! anci5t ,egyptian road 0 f ,kuft1 kn[n z ,koptos 9 ,grco-,roman times1 & />ts ab\t midway betwe5 ! two o!rs to jo9 ! "o great highway unit+ ! ,!baid to ! sea4 ,gebel el-,korn1 or ! ,hill ( ! ,horn1 w\ld h be5 m attractive _h x be5 /eep en\gh to %ade u f ! midday sun4 ,! rise 9 temp]ature 9 ! moi/ air ( cultivat$ l&s is z no?+ to :at x is 9 ! dry air ( ! des]t4 ,we saw "s bu%es ahead1 along :at appe>$ to be a dri$ wat]c\rse1 & we decid$ to move on & possibly to f9d "s %ade 9 :i* to pass our midday halt4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 0 no?+ m ?an camel-?orn--a dri$-up mass ( prickles--z useless = %ade z x app>5tly 0 = fodd]4 ,b ,laura & ! o!r camels ?\ght diff]5tly2 ! abs5ce ( %ade did n tr\ble !m1 & ! way !y />t$ dev\r+ ^! long %>p ?orns rem9d$ u t ( ! tw5ty-?ree camels :i* =m$ our c>avan n "o c>ri$ any?+ 9 ! %ape ( fodd]4 ,!y w\ld be away no less ?an a =tnight f ! cultivation1 & on que/ion+ our guide z to :at ! creatures w\ld h to eat1 he seem$ to ?9k t en\gh fodd] c\ld be pick$ up on ! j\rney4 #8,y =get ! hump1' said "o ( our companions4 ,camels hav+ #8! hump' is an old & well-season$ je/1 b _! fe$+ on _! humps 0 news to me4 ,i decid$ to exam9e ,laura's hump :5 next %e 0 unsaddl$ & see if x held a =tnight's nutrition1 also to take daily obs]vations ( its disappe>ance4 ,! ?roaty noise spelt #8ghrrr6' f our guide br\ght 8 camel d[n on its haun*es4 ,i made ! same noise1 or ?\ght ,i did1 &1 l desc5d+ a lift 9 two %ifts1 ,laura came d[n to ! gr\nd4 ,%e look$ at me :5 ,i jump$ (f1 z mu* z to say1 #8,don't flatt] y\rself t ,i h come d[n ow+ to ! silly noise y made2 ,i 0 only foll[+ ! example ( my husb& ov] !re4' ,laura 0 n h] real "n1 x 0 m l ,lah>rha ) a ?roat-scrap+ s\nd 9 ! middle4 ,?is 0 n euphoni\s1 & all ! ?roat-scrap+ s\nds ,i c\ld produce 7 to be res]v$ = :5 a halt %\ld be call$4 ,we decid$ to lun* on ! top ( a l[-ly+ hill :]e1 if !re 0 no %ade1 we %\ld at all ev5ts get ! b5efit ( :at breeze !re 04 ,my ^w6 we did enjoy t lun*4 ,i =get :at we _h1 & c only rememb] ! appetite ) :i* we ate x4 ,i kept "s back = ,laura1 to see if k9dness c\ld ov]come ! dislike ,i felt sure %e _h = me4 ,%e gobbl$ x up1 & ne>ly took a bit ( my h& ) x4 ,i ?9k %e pref]r$ ?is to ! %>p ?orns ( h] la/ snack2 b if %e felt any gratitude1 %e c>efully disguis$ x4 ,x 0 probably m contempt = me z a rid] ?an a dislike ( me p]sonally4 ,h] expression 0 z a seal$ book ) an ugly cov]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,tombs ,,( ,,! ,,khalifs ,n[ 0 ! "t to fix ! blankets on to ! saddle1 & ! ,ababdi guide & ,selim made a good job ( x4 ,! trot at :i* we />t$ 0 less pa9ful 9 consequ5ce1 & ,i _h also1 by c>efully wat*+ ! motion ( our guide1 fall5 into ! movem5t myself1 & ! bump1 bump ( ! previ\s day1 :i* _h caus$ my discomfiture1 disappe>$1 & ,i rose & fell to ! motion ( my m\nt4 ,:5 once ?is is acquir$1 a long day's ride w cause less /iffness ?an an h\r's j\rney to a novice4 ,x 0 n until we _h rea*$ ,gebel el-,korn t we f9ally lo/ sight ( ! ,d] el-,bahri cliffs4 ,a feel+ ( be+ f> away f home & ( v5tur+ into ! unkn[n got hold ( me1 ?\gh ,i 0 b>ely tw5ty miles 9 a direct l9e f ! hut b5ea? ^? cliffs4 ,i consol$ myself t ! assi/ant ,i _h br\ght out f ,p>is _h "s ,fr5* neighb\rs close by1 :o c\ld assi/ him ) 8 novel h\sekeep+4 ,m4 ,b>aize & 8 wife w\ld also appreciate hav+ a ne> neighb\r :o spoke _! language4 ,no?+ mu* 9 ! way ( ar*ological f9ds 7 made dur+ ! day1 & ^! 7 n to be expect$ till ! wide track clos$ 9 betwe5 ! rock surfaces4 ,we saw 9 ! di/ance ! little oasis ( ,lakta1 ) its palms upside d[n 9 illusive %eets ( wat] at _! bases2 = a mom5t x look$ l an isl& %imm]+ 9 ! sunlight1 & :i* might vani% z easily z ! reflections x ca/4 ,x look$ z if x might be rea*$ 9 a half-h\r's trot2 b x _h t look = a long :ile--! appe>ance ( wat] gave way to t ( ! arid wa/e all ar\nd u m ?an an h\r be=e ! oasis 0 rea*$4 ,h[ /range x look$ :5 we 7 ne> en\gh to see "s crops1 betwe5 ! palms1 gr[+ app>5tly out ( ! des]t soil4 ,we !n caught sight ( a man work+ a %ado(1 & aft] t we c\ld di/+ui% ! *essbo>d patt]n+ ( ! gr\nd1 s famili> 9 ! ,nile valley4 ,! :ole oasis seem$ little m ?an ?ree or f\r acres 9 ext5t2 b probably a good deal m cultivable soil _h be5 cov]$ by ! s& drifts :]e no wall+ exi/$ to prev5t ?is4 ,"s half-doz5 ,ababdi families liv$ "h2 our guide f\nd fri5ds among/ !m1 & we he>d "s greet+s 9 _! dialect4 ,! p seem$ v little surpris$ to see u1 & ?is n be+ a t\ri/-ridd5 spot1 we _h no begg>s4 ,a build+ ) a _m-dom$ ro( /ood "h1 & look$ v l a des]t$ ,coptic conv5t1 ?\gh ,i 0 told t x 0 =m]ly built = an ,arab c>avans]ai4 ,i wat*$ a woman pat*+ up ! mud runnels to c>ry ! wat] f ! %ado( to ! fur!/ squ>es ( cultivat$ gr\nd1 & ,i ta/$ ! wat] :5 ! man fir/ tilt$ x out ( 8 lea!rn bucket4 ,x 0 di/9ctly bracki%--! only ?+1 ( c\rse1 :i* ^! poor creatures _h to dr9k4 ,! man did n seem to m9d t2 b he compla9$ t x 0 a ?ir/y soil1 & t work+ all day at ! %ado( h>dly br\ght up a suffici5cy ( wat] to irrigate 8 little pat* ( corn4 ,tak+ me = an (ficial1 he ask$ me if ,i c\ld n induce ! gov]nm5t to place a small pump+ /ation "h4 #8,7 x only kn[n :at a lot c\ld be gr[n "h if en\gh wat] c\ld be got up1 ! gov]nm5t w\ld n hesitate to br+ ! ma*9]y4' ,! poor man might g5u9ely h ?\ght s2 b ! co/ ( ! fuel1 br\ght to ?is out-(-!-way place to raise ! bracki% wat]1 _h evid5tly n ent]$ ! man's calculations4 ,canon ,tri/ram m5tions 9 8 book1 ,! ,great ,sah>a1 t artesian wells 7 us$ by ! ,r\>as c5turies be=e ! pr9ciple ( ^? wells 0 ackn[l$g$ 9 ,europe4 ,:at a bless+ !y might be "h6 ,possibly ! sub-soil w\ld n be suitable = su* bor+s or !y w\ld h be5 9 use4 ,! sun 0 /ill hot en\gh = u to enjoy our tea 9 ! %ade ( ! tam>isks :i* grew "h4 ,! *ildr5 wat*$ u f a di/ance & spoke 9 hu%$ voices4 #8,7 ^! p dang]\s :o spoke 9 an unkn[n tongue & wore a /range g>b8' ,a smile & a h9t t sug> 0 good br\ght !m a little ne>]4 ,a v5turesome little tot came ne> en\gh to pick up a lump1 & !n scamp]$ away2 by ! "t we _h f9i%$ our tea1 ! juv5ile population ( ,lakta knew ! ta/e ( a ,huntley & ,palm] biscuit & a lump ( sug>4 ,a little bird1 ! gre5 will[-wr51 accord+ to our orni?ologi/1 0 less %y ?an ! *ildr51 & pick$ up crumbs long be=e ! latt] v5tur$ s ne> u4 ,our baggage camels 7 only j 9 sight :5 we sat d[n1 & at _! rate ( travel x w\ld take an h\r & a half be=e !y rea*$ u4 ,i tri$ to make a sket* ( ! little oasis1 :i* look$ *>m+ 9 ! ev5+ sunlight1 b ,i 0 too /iff & tir$ to d mu*4 ,a vague hope t x might look z well on our return j\rney induc$ me to put up my mat]ials & lie on my back & />e at no?+ 9 p>ticul>1 till ,i became unconsci\s ( my surr\nd+s4 ,x 0 d>k :5 ,i 0 awak5$ by ! noise ( ! m5 driv+ 9 ! t5t-pegs4 ,! f\r t5ts1 includ+ ! little "o :i* s]v$ z a cook-%op1 7 be+ erect$1 camp b$s & b$d+ sort$ out & fix$ up1 & all ! o!r bu/le 0 go+ on ( pit*+ a camp4 ,:ile ,i slept1 ,weigall _h f\nd our fir/ graffiti3 x 0 a fragm5t ( /one on :i* we c\ld read ! "n ( ! ,emp]or ,tib]ius ,claudius4 ,a v good acc\nt ( ! ar*ological f9ds we made dur+ our j\rney is giv5 9 ,mr4 ,ar?ur ,weigall's ,travels 9 ! ,upp] ,egyptian ,des]ts1 publi%$ by ,messrs4 ,blackwood & ,sons4 ,^! h be5 s fully describ$ 9 t h&y volume1 t ,i d n purpose to m5tion m ?an "o or two4 ,,*apt] ,,xix ,,! ,,valley ,,( ,,hammam,t ,we left ,lakta at dawn ! next day4 ,be+ on high] gr\nd & s mu* fur!r 9 ! des]t1 we felt ! cold m ?an on ! previ\s morn+1 & x 0 h>d to realise t we %\ld be seek+ a %ady spot = our lun*eon at midday4 ,we trott$ our camels fa/] ?an previ\sly1 z if 9 a hurry to get ne>] ! lum9\s r$ disk :i* 0 pe]+ ov] ! di/ant hills4 ,! des]t s f> 0 h>d surfac$1 & n ! s&y wa/e "o is giv5 to expect4 ,:5 ,i attempt$ to make ,laura g at m ?an a fa/ trot1 ,i soon look$ anxi\sly ab\t = s(t places bel[1 & ,i 0 lucky 9 hav+ kept my seat till %e caught up ) ! re/ ( ! p>ty1 :5 %e z usual took h] pace f t ( ! lead]4 ,we pass$ no?+ ( exceptional int]e/ dur+ ! fir/ t5 miles4 ,! valley we foll[$ w\ld wid5 out to a mile or m1 & sometimes contract to a few hundr$ feet4 ,! r[s ( camel tracks1 m>k$ "h & !re by ! skeleton ( "o :i* _h fall5 on ! way1 %[$ t ?is 0 /ill an important highway4 ,i c\nt$ ov] tw5ty ( ^! skeletons dur+ "o h\r's ride4 ,"s may h be5 blea*+ !re = _m ye>s1 b a few 7 ( suffici5tly rec5t date to make x advisable to keep on ! w9dw>d side ( !m4 ,! hackney$ camel ribs 9 ! =egr\nds ( pictures ( des]t incid5ts are n ! /age prop]ty ,i us$ to ?9k !y might be4 ,! ,kasr el-,b5at1 or #8! ,ca/le ( ! ,maid5s1' 0 ! fir/ object ( real ar*ological int]e/ we rea*$4 ,x is a ,roman /ation kn[n =m]ly z ! ,hydreuma1 & is /ill 9 a v fair /ate ( pres]vation4 ,no new build]s h be5 at "w ne> "h s9ce1 to use x z a qu>ry ) ready-cut /ones2 & ,"t 9 ! des]t deals g5tly ) ! /ructures ( bygone ages4 ,roman soldi]s 9 *>ge ( gangs ( qu>rym5 h us$ ! little vault$ *amb]s )9 ! l>ge rectangul> enclos+ wall4 ,a huge rock close by 0 cov]$ ) inscriptions & rude draw+s1 dat+ f ! e>ly dyna/ies to ! times :5 ,arab trad]s began to use ?is highway to ! coa/4 ,draw+s & photographs 7 duly tak5 ( ^! records2 & dur+ mo/ ( t day we zigzagg$ across ! valley to :]ev] a smoo? rock surface %[$ any likelihood ( inscriptions be+ f\nd4 ,we 7 seldom disappo9t$1 & on "o rock 9 p>ticul> our int]e/ 0 p>ticul>ly excit$1 = ! graffiti "h ?rew "s light on ! mu* vex$ "q z to ! age ( ,akhnaton :5 he fir/ came to ! ?rone4 ,i h describ$ else:]e our excitem5t at ,!bes :51 dur+ ! previ\s season1 ! royal tomb ( ,que5 ,?iy 0 discov]$2 h[1 aft] ! body _h be5 b]eft ( its royal cas+1 ! ar*ological _w 0 />tl$ to f9d t ! body 0 t ( a "y man4 ,s9ce !n ,weigall has made out a /rong case 9 fav\r ( ! mummy be+ t ( ! h]etic ,que5's son1 ,ammonhotep ,,iv4 7vide ! ,octob] numb] ( ,blackwood's ,magaz9e = #aijg74 ,?is same ,ammonhotep1 :5 secure ( 8 ?rone1 at ! in/igation ( 8 "m1 proclaim$ ! wor%ip ( ,aton--! "o supreme ,god ^: e>?ly manife/ation 0 ! sun's disk--&1 s z to sev] e tie ) ! wor%ip ( ,ammon & ! less] div9ities ( t pan!ism1 ! "y ,ph>aoh *ang$ 8 "n f ,ammonhotep to ,akhnaton1 i4e4 ! ,belov$ ( ,aton4 ,! weak po9t 9 ,weigall's cont5tion 0 ! y\? ( ! mummy1 :i* ,dr4 ,elliot ,smi? decl>$ c\ld n h exce$$ "s five-&-tw5ty ye>s ( age1 & x 0 d\btful :e!r he c\ld h inaugurat$ & c>ri$ out a great religi\s revolution _h he di$ at s e>ly an age4 ,! ?ree c>t\*es on ?is rock face are3 "o ( ,que5 ,?iy1 "o ( h] son z ,ammonhotep ,,iv41 & "o ( ! same pr9ce "u ! "n ( ,akhnaton4 ,! symbols ( royalty are plac$ b5ea? ea* c>t\*e1 :ile ! rays ( ! sun's disk embrace ! ?ree f above4 ,?is cle>ly proves t ! ,ph>aoh 0 /ill a *ild :5 he came to ! ?rone1 & t 8 "m rul$ 9 fact if n 9 "n1 o!rwise ! royal c>t\*es w\ld n h be5 unit$ z "h !y are2 & x also proves t ! wor%ip ( ,aton _h begun :ile ! pr9ce 0 /ill "u ! tutelage ( 8 "m4 ,z ! images ( ,ammon & ! less] div9ities 7 de/roy$ dur+ ! y\? ( ,akhnaton1 s did ! prie/s ( ,ammon1 :5 ! old religion 0 re/or$1 deface ! inscriptions relat+ to ! new] cre$4 ,! c>t\*es "h ( bo? ,?iy & ,akhnaton 7 p>tly eras$2 b ! rays1 t]m9at+ 9 h&s1 f ! disk above 7 left intact z if ! workm51 s5t to oblit]ate ! #8m>ks ( ! bea/1' fe>$ to desecrate ! div9e symbol4 ,?us aft] ?ree & a half mill5niums ?is rock gives an e*o ( ! religi\s movem5t :i* caus$ ! fall ( ! eighte5? dyna/y4 ,i h s f> encroa*$ on a subject fully treat$ by ,weigall because ,i _h devot$ a *apt] to x 9 ,bel[ ! ,cat>acts & s5t ?is into pr9t be=e ! subject _h be5 s fully ?ra%$ out1 & :ile speculation 0 rife z to :om to ascribe ! mummy f\nd 9 ! royal s>cophagus ( ! great ,que5 ,?iy4 ,%ortly aft] los+ sight ( ! tell-tale rock & ! ,roman ,hydreuma1 our pa? lay ?r\gh a n>r[+ valley :i* contract$ to a pass betwe5 impos+ masses ( granite1 n[ kn[n z el-,mutrak es-,salm4 ,x 0 an awe-inspir+ pass4 ,^! gigantic & %9y black rocks :i* rose up on ea* side ( u1 depriv$ z !y 7 ( e ve/ige ( gr[?1 seem$ h>dly t]re/rial1 & sugge/$ "s l&scape 9 ! moon4 ,!re 0 no difficulty 9 f9d+ a %ady place = our midday meal & re/2 b ,i 0 glad :5 we mov$ on1 = !re 0 some?+ z oppressive 9 ! aspect ( ! pass z !re 0 9 ! atmosph]e4 ,m graffiti 7 f\nd & duly photograph$2 b wi%+ to get into a m op5 c\ntry ,i pu%$ on ahead4 ,i 0 safe n to lose my way z long z ,i foll[$ ! tracks ( previ\s c>avans1 :i* 7 pla9ly visible4 ,aft] a c\ple ( h\rs ( ?is pass ! black %9y rocks became hateful to me1 & :5 ,i em]g$ into a wide valley aga9 my spirits rose rapidly4 ,ranges ( s&/one rock 7 to ! "r & left ( me1 & ?\gh n z beautiful 9 =m z ! lime/one cliffs ( ,d] el-,bahri1 !y 7 cong5ial 9 col\r1 & set (f ! int5se blue ( ! di/ant m\nta9s4 ,my solit>y ride _h to come to an end :5 ! road bran*$ (f on two sides ( a range ( hills on bo? ( :i* 7 camel tracks1 ?\gh n 9 equal quantities4 ,!re is no risk+ a wrong r\te 9 a wild]ness su* z ?is1 s ,i *ose a %ady place1 & felt pr\d :5 ,i induc$ my camel to g d[n on its knees4 ,i ti$ up its =eleg 9 ! approv$ fa%ion to /op its runn+ away 9 case ,i might fall asleep4 ,my companions might easily fail to see me1 b !y w\ld be sure to cat* sight ( ! camel4 ,i tri$ to analyse ! *>m ( ! des]t1 ! #8,call ( ! ,des]t1' z ,hi*5s aptly names x2 = :ile ,i re/$ "h its inexplicable *>m p]vad$ my :ole be+4 ,i am fond ( my fell[-creatures & am 9 no wise cut out = ! life ( a h]mit2 besides1 _m lonely places exi/ f> remov$ f des]t wa/es :]e solitude c /ill be enjoy$4 ,x 0 n1 !re=e1 ! feel+ ( solitude t c\ld alone expla9 ! des]t's attraction1 n[ t ,i _h left beh9d me ! oppressive blackness ( ! ,mutrak es-,salam pass4 ,a dr[s9ess soon began to displace my futile analysis1 :5 a slight tickl+ ( my ankle prev5t$ me f fell+ asleep4 ,my pres5ce 0 be+ res5t$ by a colony ( ants ^: op]ations ,i 0 imp$+4 ,i _h to %ift my position1 & !re be+ room en\gh = !m z well z = myself 9 ?is va/ des]t1 ,i return$ ^?1 :i* 7 explor+ my leg1 to _! companions4 ,we 7 "s fifty miles f any cultivation1 except ! little oasis :]e we _h la/ camp$1 s :at on e>? c\ld h induc$ ^! ants to *oose ?is spot8 ,! inexplicable *>m ( ! des]t w\ld soon fizzle out 7 we cut (f f wat] & provisions2 & :]e c\ld ^! ants h f\nd ei!r8 ,i foll[$ ! trails1 :i* />t$ f ! ne/1 to discov] :at means ( subsi/5ce !y _h1 & f\nd t "s camel's dung1 buri$ b5ea? ! s&-drift1 0 ! #8call' :i* _h attract$ !m s f>4 ,h>dly an h\r _h pass$ s9ce we left ! ,nile valley b we _h se5 "s animal life4 ,birds foll[ ! camel tracks & flies & beetles infe/ ! ,mabwala1 or /ations1 :]e ! c>avans re/4 ,^! are (t5 9 ! only %ady places1 & !y (t5 oblig$ u to take our midday meals 9 ! blaz+ sun2 = we c\ld h>dly add a t5t to ! load :i* 0 c>ri$ on ,selim's longsuff]+ camel4 ,we _h se5 two butt]flies t v morn+1 & acc\nt$ = !m z hav+ be5 c>ri$ "h by ! prevail+ w9d4 ,a poor look-out = !m1 = ! des]t rea*es to ! ,r$ ,sea coa/4 ,! ants puzzl$ me1 = ,i saw no signs ( any organic matt] :5 ,i *ose my re/+-place4 ,m$itations 9 ?is climate soon end 9 sleep1 & ,i became unconsci\s ( my surr\nd+s till ,i he>d my "n be+ %\t$4 ,i look$ up1 & behold1 my camel 0 gone1 & foll[+ ! track 9 ! loose s& ,i saw ,laura hobbl+ on ?ree legs1 ab\t half a mile away1 & mak+ = ! guide :o rode ! lead+ camel2 my companions 9 ! mean:ile 7 zigzagg+ across ! valley to f9d me4 ,:5 ,i caught ! bea/ up & satisfi$ my fri5ds t ,i 0 n lo/1 ,i made ,laura g d[n on h] knees to all[ me to m\nt1 & n[ all ! cuss$ness ( h] camel nature %[$ itself4 ,i _h to undo ! end ( ! halt] :i* ti$ ! =eleg into its b5t position & also keep at a safe di/ance f ,laura's tee?4 ,! in/ant ,i got x undone1 up %e w\ld jump be=e ,i _h a *ance ( gett+ my seat4 ,%e did ?is sev]al times1 till ,i 0 oblig$ to hang on to h] z be/ ,i c\ld & climb into my saddle :ile %e mov$ (f4 ,canon ,tri/ram says3 #8,! camel is by no means an amiable animal1 & its own] nev] seems to =m any atta*m5t to 8 bea/1 nor ! animal to reciprocate k9dness 9 any degree4 ,i nev] f\nd "o camel valu$ above 8 fell[ = intellig5ce or affection4 ,a travell] always makes a fri5d ( 8 horse1 mo/ c]ta9ly ( 8 ass1 sometimes ( 8 mule1 b nev] ( 8 camel4 ,i h made a j\rney 9 ,africa = ?ree mon?s ) ! same camels1 b nev] succe$$ 9 elicit+ ! slighte/ tok5 ( recognition f "o ( !m1 or a fri5dly disposition = k9dness %[n4' ,canon ,tri/ram nev] wrote tru] words4 ,laura 0 a bea/6 ,i w\ld d my be/ to get some?+ = h] to fe$ on1 o!r ?an on h] hump1 :5 we %\ld rea* ,kosseir2 b no corn] ( my eye w\ld moi/5 :5 ,laura & ,i %\ld "p company4 ,:5 we got to a fur!r rea* 9 ! valley1 we 7 surpris$ to see "s gazelle4 ,?is 0 m surpris+ ?an ! ants1 = surely gazelle c\ld f9d nei!r fodd] nor wat] "h4 ,t ! poor creatures _h be5 fright5$ fur!r & fur!r away f ! cultivation 0 probable1 b until !y return$ !re no?+ b a long fa/ await$ !m2 if !y 7 mak+ = ! coa/1 no?+ to fe$ on await$ !m !re4 ,we 7 ne> en\gh to h %ot "s ) a rifle1 b ,i am glad to say t none ( u _h a rifle2 we _h ev5 pack$ up our revolv]s ) ! baggage4 ,we regrett$ ! latt] = a mom5t ! next day1 b ( ?is anon4 ,we rea*$ a second ,roman /ation z ! %ad[s 7 l5g!n+2 x 0 consid]ably small] ?an ! ,hydreuma ( ! morn+1 & 0 also 9 a worse /ate ( repair4 ,we he$$ x little beyond us+ "o ( ! walls = our backs :ile ,selim brew$ u "s tea4 ,! guide climb$ "o ( ! hills to see if !re 0 any sign ( ! baggage1 & on 8 report+ t none 0 visible1 we c\ld take ! next t5 or twelve miles to ,br ,hammamt at our ease4 ,! col\r ( ! l&scape took extraord9>y comb9ations z ! sun decl9$1 & z we aga9 approa*$ ! blacki% hills :i* contract$ ! c>avan r\te4 ,! l[]-ly+ s&/one hills turn$ a greyi% violet1 except :]e a roseate light caught _! summits1 & purple black hung ab\t ! base ( ! ,hammamt m\nta9s4 ,! altitude ( ! latt] be+ consid]ably m ?an any we _h s f> se51 ! heights /ill reflect$ ! light f ! sett+ sun--a flame-col\r split up 9 violet pat*es ( %ade4 ,x 0 wond]ful1 b 0 x beautiful8 ,:]e /range comb9ations ( col\r & =m are fir/ se51 ?is "q is (t5 difficult to answ]4 ,we wat*$ ! d>k %ades rise & spread ov] ^! m\nta9s till !y told black aga9/ an a%-grey sky4 ,! ,reh5u ,valley ( ! ,egyptians 0 a spooky place to ent]4 ,our pa? w\nd ?r\gh great masses ( breccia rock1 & x contract$ 9 places s t we c\ld h>dly ride abrea/4 ,! d>kness increas$ till ! camels ( my companions 7 lo/ 9 ! gloom1 & ! :ite helmets ris+ & fall+ ) ! motion ( ! bea/s 7 soon all t ,i c\ld see ( our p>ty4 ,our track becom+ q invisible1 !re 0 j a *ance t our ,ababdi guide might take a wrong turn+1 & if once well out ( ! beat5 road1 9 a wild]ness su* z ?is1 x is d\btful :e!r we c\ld f9d our way be=e our wat]-supply gave out4 ,! long$-= moon %[$ h]self at la/1 & by h] light we pursu$ our way to ! well :]e we _h settl$ to camp = ! night4 ,! valley op5s up "h to a consid]able wid?1 & ! well1 kn[n z ,br ,hammamt1 is a conspicu\s object 9 ! c5tre4 ,!re 0 no?+ n[ to d b to wait = our baggage camels1 & to keep ourselves z w>m z we c\ld4 ,our guide rode back to reconnoitre1 & :5 we c\ld di/+ui% an answ] to 8 calls1 o!r ?an ! e*o1 we 7 fill$ ) a s5se ( relief4 ,lakta is only ?irty miles f ,br ,hammamt1 b ) our cross+ & recross+ ! valleys 9 se>* ( graffiti we mu/ h ridd5 half aga9 z f>4 ,d9n] & sleep1 & an easy day to foll[1 7 pleasant ?+s to contemplate4 ,,*apt] ,,xx ,,! ,,wady ,,f[akiyeh ,,& ,b,r ,,hagi ,,suliman ,we slumb]$ till ! sun beat d[n on our t5ts4 ,!re 0 en\gh wat] obta9able to fill our collapsible ba?s to ! brim1 & good en\gh = ! camels to dr9k--poor bracki% /uff we %\ld h f\nd x1 _h we dep5d$ on x = our own consumption4 ,! well seem$ an imm5se dep?1 & _h a spiral /aircase d[n x1 ?\gh x 0 dang]\s to desc5d m ?an a few y>ds4 ,a m9+ company _h ( late ye>s p>tially re/or$ ! build+ :i* /ood ov] x1 & = ! fir/ "t s9ce we left ,luxor we saw ! names ( "s fell[-c\ntrym5 :o _h put ?is well 9 workable ord]4 ,unf9i%$ s>cophagi lay ne> by1 ) "s flaws 9 ! /one to acc\nt = _! hav+ be5 left "h by ! workm5 ( "o ( ! ,ptolemies4 ,we did n propose to travel m ?an a few miles t day1 = ! ,wady ,f[akiyeh1 z ! natives call x1 is t "p ( ! ,hammamt valley :]e ,lepsius & o!r =m] explor]s made _! greate/ f9ds4 ,n[1 z ,mr4 ,weigall devotes to ?is valley _m pages 9 8 ,travels 9 ,upp] ,egyptian ,des]ts1 ,i %all n attempt to describe :at he has s ably giv5 to ! public4 ,i w quote :at he says ( our arrival !re1 & ( ! e>lie/ inscription :i* 0 f\nd3 #8,amid/ ^! relics ( ! old _w our t5ts 7 pit*$1 hav+ be5 remov$ f ,br ,hammamt z soon z breakfa/ _h be5 f9i%$2 & ) cam]a1 note-book1 & sket*+ app>atus1 ! f\r ( u disp]s$ 9 diff]5t directions1 my own objective1 ( c\rse1 be+ ! inscriptions4 ,! hi/ory ( ,wady ,f[akiyeh beg9s :5 ! hi/ory ( ,egypt beg9s1 & "o mu/ look back into ! dim unc]ta9ties ( ! ar*aic p]iod = ! fir/ evid5ces ( ! work+ ( ! qu>ries ( ! valley4 ,_m beautifully made b[ls & o!r objects ( ?is tuff are f\nd 9 ! graves ( ,dyna/y ,i41 fifty-five c5turies ago2 & my fri5ds & ,i scrambl+ ov] ! rocks 7 =tunate en\gh to f9d 9 a little wady lead+ nor?w>ds f ! ma9 valley a l>ge rock-draw+ & inscriptions ( ?is date4 ,a 8vase-mak]0 "h (f]s a pray] to ! sacr$ b>que ( ! hawk-god ,horus1 :i* is drawn s cle>ly t "o may see ! hawk /&+ ^u its %r9e 9 ! boat1 an upright spe> set be=e ! door2 & "o may obs]ve ! bull's head1 s (t5 f\nd 9 primitive c\ntries1 affix$ to ! pr[2 :ile ! b>que itself is %[n to be /&+ ^u a sl$ge 9 ord] t x might be dragg$ ov] ! gr\nd4' ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,mosque ,,at ,,kosseir ,by ! mod]n ,g]man s*ool ( computation1 :i* ,mr4 ,weigall accepts1 ! p]iod ( ! ,%eph]d ,k+s 0 b ( two c5turies' duration2 b accord+ to ! reckon+ ( ! majority ( ,egyptologi/s1 ?is p]iod la/$ a mill5nium long]4 ,%\ld ! latt] be "r ^! graffiti w\ld date back sixty-five c5turies2 & f t remote p]iod 7) ! exception ( ! d>k ages kn[n z t ( ! ,hyksos or ,%eph]d ,k+s7 "s signs ( human activity 7 visible 9 ?is valley1 tell+ u some?+ ( ! v>i\s peoples :o rul$ ,egypt until ! ?ree ,engli%m5 scrat*$ _! names ) a p5knife %ortly aft] ! ,briti% occupation4 ,e collection ( ,egyptological objects w h "s specim5s ( sculptur$ /one qu>ri$ out ( ^! tufa & breccia rocks4 ,i f\nd a l>ge smoo? surface ( /one1 =m+ ! back wall ( a holl[ qu>ri$ out ( a gigantic mass ( breccia1 :i*1 9 ,ptolemaic times1 _h be5 made to s]ve z a %r9e to ! god ,m9 ( ,koptos1 ! protect+ deity ( ! ,upp] ,egyptian des]ts4 ,!re 7 signs t ?is %ady nook _h rec5tly be5 us$ z an ,arab encampm5t1 & x sugge/$ a delightful subject to pa9t4 ,i 0 torn ) conflict+ emotions3 :e!r to secure s good a backgr\nd = a figure subject1 or :e!r to jo9 my companions 9 _! se>* = ar*ological treasure4 ,! backgr\nd won ! day4 ,a fa9t hope t we might sp5d a second morn+ "h on our return j\rney1 :i* w\ld make x possible to complete my /udy1 f9ally decid$ me4 ,! smoo? /one at ! back ( ! holl[ 0 decorat$ ) v delicately incis$ ,ptolemaic "w4 ,! spac+ ( ! panels conta9+ ! deities 0 mo/ arti/ically done1 & ! figures 7 *isell$ ) a delicacy & /yle n usually se5 9 "w ( t p]iod4 ,i _h se5 little ,ptolemaic sculpture on any o!r mat]ial ?an on s&/one1 & ?is 0 b\nd to look co>se comp>$ to ! eighte5? dyna/y "w on ! f9] gra9$ lime/one4 ,! h>d breccia rock surface gave ! sculptor a *ance2 & ?\gh x lack$ ! di/9ction ( e>li] "w1 x comp>$ well z to delicacy ( treatm5t4 ,greek influ5ce seem$ m app>5t ?an ev]4 ,ha?or look$ less ( a goddess1 & 0 possibly m *>m+ z a pretty little mortal2 ,ammon ,ra )\t 8 headdress w\ld h pass$ = a li! & well-proportion$ ,greek slave2 b ! god ,m91 ow+ to 8 conv5tional pose1 comb9$ ! ,hell5ic s5suosity ) ! sev]] ,egyptian traditions4 ,! ,ptolemy :o made (f]+s to ! above trilogy 0 a ,greek gr&ee 9 ! pose & app>el ( a ,ph>aoh4 ,! figures measur$ ab\t two feet high except t ( an att5dant prie/1 :o1 z mode/y dem&$1 0 a few in*es %ort]4 ,!re 7 "o or two m panels 9 :i* ,m9 figur$ conspicu\sly4 ,! bold =ms ( ! massive rock :i* ov]hung ?is wall may h help$ to emphasise ! delicacy ( ! sculpture4 ,! col\r ( ! rock =mation is z extraord9>y z its draw+3 ! unt\*$ portions are a *ocolate br[n1 & ^? p>ts expos$ by ! "w ( ! qu>rym5 v>y f gre5 to a blui% black4 ,:5 ! sun %ift$ to :]e ,i sat1 ! effect *ang$ s mu* t x seem$ h>dly wor? risk+ sun/roke by cont9u+ my /udy4 ,my companions call+ out _! sev]al discov]ies tempt$ me to jo9 9 ! hunt4 ,s mu* ( int]e/ 0 cr[d$ into ! "o day sp5t at ,wady ,f[akiyeh t ! ?irte5? day ( ,novemb] #aijh w rema9 z a l&m>k 9 my some:at v>i$ exi/5ce4 ,"o long inscription1 :i* ,mr4 ,weigall int]pret$1 tells u ( #aj1jjj m5 :o 7 s5t dur+ ! elev5? dyna/y to "w ! qu>ries4 ,among/ ?is army ( qu>rym5 !re 7 m9]s1 arti/s1 draughtsm51 /one-cutt]s1 gold-work]s1 & (ficials1 & full directions 7 giv5 z to ! "w !y 7 s5t to d4 ,:5 "o ?\ght ( ! voices ( ?is ho/ ( m51 awak5+ ! e*oes ( ! cliff-b\nd valley1 ! pres5t sil5ce became almo/ oppressive4 ,z ! %ades deep5$ ) ! decl9+ sun1 ! impressiv5ess ( our surr\nd+s seem$ to h got hold ev5 ( our escort4 ,we c\ld j he> !m mutt]+ _! ev5+ pray]1 & :5 t 0 ov] no?+ b ! crackl+ ( ! fire1 r\nd :i* !y sat1 di/urb$ ! /illness ( ! night4 ,till ?is po9t 9 our j\rney1 ! road we trod is suffici5tly h>d & smoo? to all[ a motor-c> to d x 9 ?ree or f\r h\rs4 ,we _h n[ rea*$ ! highe/ "p ( ! des]t highway1 b ! incl9e is s imp]ceptible t only ! an]oid c\ld prove t we 7 on a great] altitude ?an :5 we left ,qs4 ,no motor-c> c\ld1 h[ev]1 cross ! mile or two ( b\ld]s :i* *ok$ up ! road on :i* we made an e>ly />t ! foll[+ morn+4 ,mo/ ( ?is we did on foot1 jump+ f b\ld] to b\ld]1 ! m5 lead+ ! camels a s]p5t9e r\te or assi/+ !m ov] ! rocks :i* block$ ! way4 ,we foll[$ up a n>r[ pass 9 ! m\nta9s to inspect ! ab&on$ work+s ( ! gold-m9es4 ,we soon came across "s huts us$ by m9]s :o _h 9 q rec5t ye>s come "h to glean :]e ! e>ly ,egyptians _h reap$ a good h>ve/4 ,! huts 7 already 9 worse repair ?an _m we saw at ! ,roman ,hydreuma4 ,f :at ,i h he>d s9ce1 ! mod]n work+ ( ^! m9es _h soon be5 ab&on$ z a hopeless task4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 o!r m9es nor? ( ^! :i* are n[ work$ at a pr(it4 ,we decid$ to cont9ue on ?is pass & jo9 ! ma9 r\te to ,kosseir a few miles fur!r on1 ! baggage tra91 ( c\rse1 foll[+ ! usual c>avan road4 ,our guide decl>$ t he knew ! road1 s !re seem$ no?+ to appreh5d4 ,nev]!less we took ! precaution ( leav+ a trail beh9d u1 z boys d on a pap]*ase1 = !re 7 tracks 9 ! s& ( o!r camels ?an our own1 & ! road1 su* z x 01 split up into sev]al w9d+ passes ?r\gh ! hills4 ,z "o ( our p>ty _h *os5 to foll[ ! baggage1 we decid$ to s5d back ,selim to ! ma9 highway to tell him :5 & :]e we expect$ to jo9 him1 & ,selim _h also in/ructions to prep>e our midday meal at t spot4 ,! l&scape became m extraord9>y ?an ev] :5 we left ! tuff & breccia rocks beh9d u4 ,on ei!r side ( u rose s&/one cliffs worn into ! mo/ fanta/ic %apes4 ,x is difficult to associate ra9 ) su* a c\ntry z ! "o we 7 91 yet ra9 & no?+ else c\ld h worn ?is /one into ! %apes we n[ beheld4 ,an inscription :i* ,weigall _h c>efully copi$ describ$ a torr5tial %[] :i* desc5d$ on ! qu>rym5 9 e>ly dyna/ic times1 & :i* !y consid]$ a good om5 ( a successful issue to _! lab\rs4 ,ra9 desc5ds at long int]vals1 b dur+ p]iods z c\nt$ by geologi/s an imm5se am\nt ( wat] _h fa%ion$ ^! s&/one rocks into _! une>?ly %apes1 = no gr[? is "h to imp$e ! action ( ! torr5tial /reams4 ,we w\nd among/ ^! hills = two or ?ree h\rs1 & ,i 0 delight$ :5 we rega9$ ! highway & return$ to less /range1 ?\gh m beautiful sc5]y4 ,b :]e 0 ,selim8 ,we =tunately c\ld see our companion 9 ! di/ance1 :ile ! baggage camels :i* he foll[$ 7 disappe>+ r\nd an angle 9 ! range ( hills4 ,we manag$ to make him he>1 & he rode back to meet u4 ,he _h nei!r se5 nor he>d any?+ ( our cook1 & _h ! latt] foll[$ ! trail he %\ld h jo9$ ! ma9 body a c\ple ( h\rs ago4 ,our guide w5t back to try to f9d ! lo/ cook1 & z he 0 born to ! des]t1 we _h little fe> ( los+ him4 ,aft] a hunt ( a c\ple ( h\rs ! guide return$1 hop+ t ,selim might h f\nd 8 way to u by ! ma9 road4 ,!re 0 no?+ to be done b to s5d ! guide back to try "s ( ! passes :i* he _h consid]$ too unlikely = ! cook to h tak54 ,x 0 awkw>d to lose ! man on :om dep5ds y\r midday meal4 ,b worse ?an a long day's fa/ 0 ! possibility t ! man _h completely lo/ 8 be>+s1 9 :i* case1 8 bones & ^? ( 8 m\nt might1 at ! "t ,i am writ+1 be blea*+ 9 ! des]t surr\nd$ by 8 pans & kettles z well z by our sket*+ & photographic p>aph]nalia4 ,ab\t f\r o'clock a clatt]1 clatt] awoke u f a doze we _h indulg$ 9 "u ! %ade ( a project+ rock4 ,! cook _h turn$ up at la/1 /ill trembl+ ) ! dang] ( be+ lo/ :i* he _h exp]i5c$1 & also expect+ a bl[+ up = be+ s late ) our lun*4 ,a puff ( w9d _h1 x appe>$1 bl[n "s ( our pap] trail ov] a l[ hillock into a pass :i* we _h n tak51 & see+ camel tracks !re he foll[$ x up & got lo/ 9 ! labyr9? among/ ! s&/one cliffs4 ,?\gh he rode 8 camel well1 8 practice _h hi!rto be5 conf9$ to ! cultivat$ l& :]e he c\ld h>dly g a qu>t] ( a mile )\t meet+ "s "o to direct 8 way4 ,we made a ha/y meal1 = we _h a long ride be=e we c\ld rea* our night's camp+-place4 ,we pass$ two m ,roman /ations1 b c\ld n give !m mu* "t4 ,! sc5]y increas$ 9 gr&eur & beauty1 = ! ,hammamt m\nta9s we _h left beh9d u are 9 tru? m extraord9>y ?an beautiful4 ,a high range ( lime/one m\nta9s caught ! ev5+ light1 :ile ! mean] hills 9 ! =egr\nd 7 lo/ 9 a subtle grey-violet %ade4 ,twilight is ( %ort duration1 & n long aft] admir+ ! aft]-gl[ on ! lime/one heights1 we _h to trace our way 9 no o!r light ?an t f ! />lit sky4 ,:5 we rea*$ our halt+-place = ! night we f\nd our t5ts pit*$1 table set1 & our meal ready to be s]v$ up4 ,selim _h got ov] 8 fright1 & 0 anxi\s to d 8 be/ to make up = ! inconv5i5ce he _h put u to dur+ ! day2 ! ,ababdi guide likewise arriv$ be=e we turn$ 9 = ! night4 ,our camp 0 ne> ano!r ,roman /ation1 kn[n by ! "n ( ! well close by1 ,br ,hagi ,suliman4 ,:atev] else ( int]e/ !re may be 9 a des]t highway1 ! vital importance ( wat] 7ev5 ?\gh x be bracki%7 is su* t ! "n ( ! supply is ! "n ! di/rict is kn[n by4 ,be] runs ?is close 9 ,london1 judg+ f ! names ( public-h\ses be+ s conspicu\s on any omnibus r\te4 ,%\ld y ask an ,ababdi ,arab :]e ! ,hydreuma 0 he w\ld %rug 8 %\ld]s2 b if y m5tion a well1 el ,br1 any:]e )9 fifty miles1 he w be able to direct y4 ,! simil>ity 9 ! "n ( _! wat]-supplies to t ( ! ,briti% fav\rite dr9k is a curi\s co9cid5ce4 ,! dom$ enclosure ( ! ,br ,hagi ,suliman 0 9 good repair1 & a tablet 9 ! wall bore ^! ?ree names & a date3 #8,briggs1 ,hancock1 & ,wood1 #ahcb4' ,probably ! names ( ?ree ,engli%m5 :o 7 prospect+ = gold 9 ^! regions4 ,we decid$ ! next morn+ to foll[ ! c>avan road1 & t we %\ld return f ,kosseir by a second r\te :i* jo9s ?is "o ne> ! well4 ,no ar*ological f9d 0 z welcome z ! fir/ rays ( sun :i* fell on our p]i%+ bodies4 ,to get out ( ! cold w9d & creep along ! rocks :i* fir/ caught ! morn+ sun 0 our only ?\ght4 ,"o is oblig$ to dress 9 ?9 summ] clo!s1 z ^! valleys are v hot by ! "t ! sun is high 9 ! heav5s4 ,i /rapp$ en\gh blankets r\nd me to give me ! appe>ance ( a well-pack$ breakable object /[$ on ! top ( a camel1 & ,i kept ne> ! useful ,selim1 s z to enable him to cat* ! blankets z ,i %$ !m4 ,i _h h>dly got d[n to my cotton suit :5 we arriv$ at ano!r ,roman /ation4 ,x seem$ z difficult to avoid ,roman ru9s "h z to get away f tripp]s 9 ! ,nile valley4 ,"s ,cufic inscriptions on a doorpo/ int]e/$ u ! mo/1 z an indication ( ?is r\te be+ us$ soon aft] ! ,mohamm$an conque/ ( ,egypt4 ,our orni?ologi/ _h 8 sket*-book out to note ! flight ( "s s&gr\se :i* rose f among/ ! ru9s z we ent]$ !m4 ,we _h met b "o or two nomad ,arabs s9ce we left ! oasis ( ,lakta1 s t our int]e/ 0 consid]ably excit$ :5 we p]ceiv$ a consid]able c>avan advanc+ t[>ds u 9 ! di/ance4 ,!y 7 und\bt$ly ,arabs f ! ,h$jaz :o _h cross$ ! ,r$ ,sea to b>t] _! camels 9 ! ,nile valley--que] cu/om]s = s small a p>ty to meet 9 ?is lonely place4 ,we 7 miles ahead ( our baggage tra91 & ,i f\nd t my companions _h1 z ,i _h done1 pack$ _! revolv]s 9 _! kit-bags4 ,we consol$ ourselves ) ! ?\ght t our want ( precaution w\ld n be suspect$ by ! p we 7 approa*+1 & ,i 0 m anxi\s to get a %ot at !m ) a h& cam]a ?an ) any m deadly weapon4 ,!y 7 a mo/ picturesque lot1 & might h pos$ = a gr\p ( ,hyksos invad]s1 or1 to come to mod]n times 7:i* only _! long-b>rell$ guns sugge/$71 !y might h be5 a small ho/ ( ! ,midianite ,arabs :o plund] ! pilgrims on ! ,mecca road4 ,"s ( _! wom5folk 7 ) !m1 b enclos$ 9 litt]s on ! camels' humps4 ,illu/ration3 ,,doorway ,,9 ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,isis ,i manag$ ) difficulty to get a c\ple ( snap%ots3 ! head ( my own camel _h to be avoid$1 & ,i wi%$ n to attract too mu* att5tion f ! evil-look+ m51 :o greet$ nei!r u nor ! two ,arab s]vants 9 our p>ty--a mo/ unusual occurr5ce any:]e 9 ! ,ne> ,ea/4 ,! fir/ bit ( news we he>d1 :5 we got back to ,luxor1 0 t a p>ty ( ?ree ,egyptians _h be5 attack$ by ,arabians travell+ f ,kosseir to ,k5eh1 & ! date giv5 0 t ( ! day aft] we _h met ^! p4 ,"o ,egyptian _h be5 kill$1 & ! two o!rs _h manag$ to escape4 ,! attack+ p>ty c\ld h be5 no o!r ?an ! "o we pass$4 ,:e!r !y 7 ev] br\ght to ju/ice1 or :e!r !y 7 able to recross ! ,r$ ,sea & get safe back to ! ,h$jaz1 ,i 0 nev] able to asc]ta94 ,little news1 except t :i* an occasional ,european pap] gave u1 rea*$ my camp at ,d] el-,bahri :5 ,i 0 re9/all$ !re4 ,we halt$ at midday at a well 9 an op5 pla94 ,br el-,+liz1 z ?is well is call$1 & also ! names ( two ,fr5*m51 on a rock ne> by1 & dat$ #agii1 vaguely recall$ "s incid5ts 9 ! fight betwe5 ,france & ,engl& dur+ ! ,napoleonic w>s4 ,desaix1 :o comm&$ ! ,fr5* troops 9 ,upp] ,egypt #agii1 mu/ h s5t 8 m5 by ?is r\te to g>rison ! /ill exi/+ =t at ,kosseir4 ,we "k ( no record t ! "y ,fr5* g5]al 0 ev] at ,kosseir himself2 b we "k t 9 ,janu>y #ahjj bo? ,desaix & ,kleb] sign$ ! conv5tion ( el-,ari%1 six mon?s aft] ,buonap>te _h left ,egypt4 ,! two ,fr5*m51 ,=c>d & ,mat]on1 ^: names we f9d ne> ! well1 7 !re=e 9 all probability return+ ) a deta*m5t f ,kosseir to jo9 ,desaix be=e he w5t nor? to el-,ari%4 ,! ,engli% c\ld n h re/or$ ?is well till two ye>s lat]1 z x 0 n till ,may #ahja t an ,anglo-,indian =ce1 "u ,baird1 l&$ at ,kosseir & drove ! g>rison back into ! des]t4 ,?\gh ! well is kn[n z ,br el-,+liz1 x is probable t ! ,engli% put an already exi/+ "o into work+ ord]1 & built ! well-h\se z a protection to x4 ,"s ( its slightly bracki% wat] may h be5 ! cause ( ^! ,fr5*m5 re/+ "h4 ,a magnific5t range ( lime/one cliffs1 :i* came into view soon aft] our re/1 %ut u (f f any glimpse we might h _h ( ! sea4 ,^! 7 ! f9e/ m\nta9s ,i _h se5 9 ,egypt2 _! =mation is v simil> to t ( ! ,d] el-,bahri cliffs1 b !y 7 m impos+ f _! great] altitude4 ,z we approa*$ ! nor!rn extremity ( ! range1 a pat* ( vivid gre5 _h a s+ul> attraction = u1 & ha/5$ ! trot ( our camels4 ,x c\ld n be a mirage1 = ! =m t ph5om5on took1 z f> z our exp]i5ce w5t1 0 t ( reflect+1 9 :at appe>$ wat]1 objects above our horizon4 ,our ,ababdi guide knew x z ! ,br ,ambagi4 ,we _h be5 only a few days 9 ! des]t2 b we felt "s ( ! excitem5t ( pilgrims 9 ! wild]ness :o1 aft] a prolong$ j\rney1 cat* _! fir/ glimpse ( a l& ( ,canaan4 ,our oasis turn$ out to be no?+ m ?an a mass ( ru%es surr\nd+ "s pools ( wat]2 x 01 h[ev]1 a refre%+ sight to our eyes1 & possibly m refre%+ to ! /oma*s ( our camels--!re 0 n mu* left ( ,laura's hump :5 ,i _h la/ tak5 obs]vations4 ,a half-doz5 goats--sole milk-supply ( ,kosseir1 z we lat] on f\nd out--graz$ peacefully "h1 :ile ! "y goat-h]ds />$ r\nd-ey$ at ! newcom]s4 ,! air we brea!d 0 diff]5t1 & ?\gh no air is pur] ?an t ( ! des]t1 !re 0 some?+ s+ul>ly exhil>at+ 9 t :i* 0 "h4 ,! sea1 :i* we c\ld n yet cat* a glimpse (1 _h s5t its breezes to welcome u to its %ores4 ,on rem\nt+ our camels we foll[$ ! dry b$ ( a riv]--a wa%-out1--& aft] desc5d+ x = a few miles1 we turn$ ! corn] ( "s l[-ly+ s&-hills1 & ! ,r$ ,sea 0 be=e u4 ,h[ int5sely blue x look$6 ,i _h n at t "t gone d[n ! ,r$ ,sea1 or ,i might h be5 prep>$ = its be+ no r$d] ?an a blue b&-box4 ,x is j z well t its col\r 0 no o!r1 = no sight c\ld h giv5 u great] pleasure4 ,we kept our camels at ! trot1 & x look$ z if we %\ld be !re 9 half an h\r4 ,! l[ :ite h\ses ( ,kosseir 7 on our left horizon1 ) "s huge ugly erection ov]-topp+ !m4 ,9 a c\ple ( h\rs we cle>$ ! s&y wa/e1 & jump$ (f our camels on ! /r&4 ,"o ( our p>ty ?rew (f 8 clo!s to h a swim1 9 spite ( our w>n+ him t ! wat] might be infe/$ ) %>ks4 #8,i'll risk x anyh[1' he call$ out1 & we wat*$ him spla%+ ab\t ) mix$ feel+s ( s\r grapes4 ,weigall s5t our guide ) a note to ! ,mudir to tell him ( our arrival1 & ,selim light$ ! _s lamp to prep>e our tea4 ,we /roll$ "s way along ! bea*1 :5 we came on ! body ( a "y %>k1 ) its ?roat cut1 ly+ on ! edge ( ! wat]1 & our looks at our v5turesome companion sil5c$ 8 boa/+s ( h[ he _h enjoy$ 8 ba!4 ,,*apt] ,,xxi ,,kosseir ,we _h n long to wait be=e ! ,mudir1 or ,gov]nor ( ,kosseir1 arriv$ to welcome u4 ,he 0 a /\t1 good-natur$1 middle-ag$ ,maltese2 he spoke ,engli% flu5tly1 b ) ! acc5t ( 8 c\ntrym54 ,8 pleasure at see+ u 0 v g5u9e1 & ! m we he>d him tell ( life 9 ,kosseir1 ! m we appreciat$ :at an ev5t 9 8 dull exi/5ce our arrival mu/ h be54 ,besides 8 wife & little daught] !re 0 n a ,european 9 ! place1 except an ,au/rian me*anic :o att5d$ to ! sea-wat] cond5s]4 ,a ,syrian doctor _h be5 s5t "h to att5d to ! sick1 & z no "o ev] 0 sick1 & ! ,mudir nev] _h any cases to try1 _! only topic ( conv]sation 0 ( ! dulness ( ! place4 ,!re 7 #aejj s\ls 9 ,kosseir :5 ! ,mudir 0 fir/ appo9t$1 & n[ !re are b>ely #cjj4 ,!y liv$ on ! fi% !y caught & "s bags ( fl\r :i* a coa/+ /eam] left "h at long int]vals4 ,! arrival ( ! /eam] 0 ! "o ev5t :i* awak5$ ! inhabitants1 :o1 dur+ ! int]vals1 sp5t mo/ ( _! "t 9 sleep4 ,i ask$ :at ! l>ge build+ 0 :i* we notic$ :5 fir/ we caught sight ( ! place1 & ,i 0 told t x 0 a cond5s] :i* ! gov]nm5t _h erect$ s z to save ! p hav+ to g f\r miles to ! ne>e/ well to fet* ! bracki% wat] x suppli$4 ,! ,mudir w\ld %[ u ov] x ! foll[+ morn+1 z well z ! o!r objects ( int]e/ 9 ! t[n4 ,we 7 told we c\ld n get "s necess>ies we ?\ght we might be able to procure = our return j\rney4 #8,!re is no?+ "h1 no?+1 no?+1' & :i* he pron\nc$ #8,noz+1 noz+1 noz+1' :ile ! te>s almo/ />t$ f ! poor man's eyes4 ,x appe>$ t :5 he 0 fir/ s5t "h ! p 7 (t5 r$uc$ to eat+ *opp$ /raw ) _! fi%4 ,! little trade1 :i* _h hi!rto kept ! place go+1 disappe>$ :5 ,suak9 & ,suez became ! only places ( call on t coa/4 ,! great cond5s] _h suppli$ ! %ips ) wat]1 & a trade 9 fi% gave ! m5 an occupation & br\ght a little money into ! place4 ,! ,mudir s5t a report to ! gov]nm5t on ! />v+ condition ( ! inhabitants1 & a grant 0 vot$ to transplant ! population to m prosp]\s di/ricts4 ,?ree-qu>t]s ( ! p left :5 ! means 7 giv5 !m to d s1 & z none b ! ag$ rema9$1 x 0 hop$ t ,kosseir w\ld soon cease z an inhabit$ t[n4 ,s great1 h[ev]1 is ! native's atta*m5t to 8 locality1 t a c]ta9 numb] return$1 aft] a :ile1 to ! semi-/>vation ( _! natal place4 ,we ask$ if ! p 7 hone/ & well-behav$4 #8,d]e is noz+ to /eal1 & :5 !y are n fi%+ dey sleep1' 0 our answ]4 ,! doctor _h z little to d z ! ,mudir 9 8 capacity z magi/rate1 =1 9 spite ( ! poor liv+1 old age 0 ! only physical compla9t f :i* any "o suff]$4 ,on ?is b>r5 coa/1 :]e no blade ( grass c gr[1 ! g]ms ( disease d n easily spread1 & ! fil? f ! habitations is soon /]ilis$ 9 ! p]petual sun%9e4 ,to ru/ out takes long] ?an to we> out 9 su* a climate1 & ?is mu/ acc\nt = ! great age :i* mo/ ( ! inhabitants atta94 ,our baggage _h arriv$ dur+ ^! tales ( woe1 & we tri$ to induce ! gov]nor to %>e our d9n]4 ,he w\ld n /ay1 b promis$ to h tea ) u ! next day1 & to br+ 8 daught]1 ! ,au/rian me*anic1 & ! ,syrian doctor4 ,he _h h>dly tak5 8 dep>ture :5 "s m5 arriv$ br++ half a doz5 *airs & a pres5t ( fi%1 ) a message t if !re 0 any?+ ,kosseir c\ld supply1 x 0 at our ord]s4 ,i ?9k ! k9d-he>t$ ,mudir left to sp>e u our expressions ( gratitude4 ,to lie on ! s(t s& )9 a few y>ds ( ! g5tle pla%+ ( ! incom+ waves1 & to wat* ! full moon sl[ly em]g+ above ! %>p-cut l9e ( ! blue wat]s1 consol$ u t ,kosseir c\ld at lea/ supply a half-h\r ( z exquisite enjoym5t z any weal? c\ld comm& 9 ! mo/ prosp]\s ( cities4 ,! fizzl+ s\nds :i* proce$$ f ,selim's cook+-t5t did n j> 9 ! lea/1 = ! anticipation ( "s fre% fi%1 aft] a rgime ( t9n$ meats1 0 f> f disagreeable4 ,aft] a c\rse ( crayfi% & ( a well-s]v$ belbul1 we told ,selim t he c\ld give 8 t9-op5] a ?or\gh re/4 ,we return$ to our s(t c\*es 9 ! s&1 & lay !re till ! moon 0 high 9 ! heav5s1 :5 we turn$ 9 = ! night4 ,! ,mudir 0 await+ u :5 we arriv$ at 8 (fice at eight o'clock on ! foll[+ morn+4 ,x 0 9 a l>ge build+1 = our ho/'s duties 7 v>i\s3 he 0 consul to _m nations1 ( :om a subject might be "h ca/ a%ore2 he 0 also po/ma/]-g5]al1 9 case a lett] ev] arriv$2 head ( ! cu/oms--on :at dutiable articles 0 n relat$4 ,z capta9 ( ! coa/gu>ds a *ance ( "s "w might occur1 = 7 ?is coa/ n gu>d$1 ha%ee% w\ld be sure to f9d an inlet & poison "s ( ! p 9 ! ,nile valley4 ,he 0 "h also to en=ce ! ord]s giv5 by ! sanit>y inspectors 9 reg>d to pilgrims return+ f ,mecca ?r\gh ?is port4 ,9 spite ( ^! & o!r duties1 ,mr4 ,wir? 7z we discov]$ 8 "n to be7 _h pl5ty ( "t to place at our disposal1 & :5 we _h sipp$ ! usual cup ( c(fee we />t$ to see ,kosseir "u 8 guidance4 ,! huge & unsightly build+ :i* h\s$ ! cond5s+ ma*9]y 01 z might be expect$1 ! pice de rsi/ance1 & ) pride we 7 %[n ! "o ?+ left 9 :i* "s l+]+ signs ( vitality rema9$4 ,! gov]nm5t _h sp5t #ad1jjj to put ?is ?+ up4 ,x 0 l>ge en\gh to supply wat] to #aj1jjj s\ls1 & n[ by work+ x dur+ two morn+s p] mon? x m ?an suppli$ ! pres5t population4 ,a pat]nal gov]nm5t _h decre$ t a *>ge ( "o millime1 t is a f>?+1 %\ld be made = ea* pailful suppli$2 b z _m _h n ! f>?+1 x 0 a case ( #8?ank y = no?+4' ,! gov]nor in=m$ u t _m wom5 fill$ _! pit*]s at ! bracki% well1 f\r miles (f1 f want ( ?is money to pay = ! di/ill$ wat]3 a case ( f>?+ wise & p\nd fooli% on ! "p ( ! gov]nm5t4 ,i 0 glad :5 we got out ( ! place & proce$$ to inspect ! *ief mosque4 ,:5 we _h awak5$ ! c>etak]1 he />t$ remov+ ! matt+1 s z n to oblige u to take (f our %oes4 ,mr4 ,wir? wittily rem>k$ t ! gr\nd w\ld be less likely to dirty our %oes ?an w\ld ! mats if we /epp$ on !m4 ,we prev5t$ ! man f mov+ "o ( !m1 s z n to di/urb ! sleep ( "o or two wor%ipp]s :o lay !re4 ,x 0 a picturesque old mosque1 & ,mr4 ,:ymp] & ,i decid$ to return & make a draw+ ( x :5 we _h se5 :at else ,kosseir _h to %[4 ,! =t /&s close by1 & we 7 tak5 to see ! place :]e ,desaix _h qu>t]$ "s troops1 & :]e ^! ,fr5* soldi]s p9$1 dur+ two ye>s1 = _! native c\ntry1 until !y 7 hurri$ly dislodg$ by ! ,anglo-,briti% =ce "u ,baird4 ,our ,maltese fri5d1 be+ a ,briti% subject1 po9t$ out ) pride ! gate ?r\gh :i* ! ,engli% & ,indian soldi]s effect$ an entrance1 & at ! back ( ! =t he %[$ u f :5ce ! poor ,fr5*m5 escap$ to try & rea* ! ,nile across ! des]t4 ,h[ _m succe$$1 hi/ory does n relate4 ,kn[+ :at prep>ations h to be made to make a des]t j\rney1 x is awful to contemplate ! fate ( ^! soldi]s ) only ! food !y c\ld hurri$ly grab up1 & ! wells gu>d$ by ! enemy4 ,we are told t ! ,briti% troops rea*$ ,k5eh1 & t ! ,fr5* _h by t "t evacuat$ ,egypt4 ,g5]al ,desaix _h jo9$ ,napoleon's army m ?an a ye> be=e1 & fell 9 ! battle ( ,m>5go on ! #ad? ( ,june #ahjj4 ,8 brilliant c>e] 0 cut %ort :ile only 9 8 ?irty-second ye>1 8 greate/ a*ievem5t be+ ! conque/ ( ,upp] ,egypt1 :]e he became kn[n by ! natives z ! ,j ,sultan4 ,! cu/odian ( ! =t told u h[ ! ,briti% fir$ wat] f _! %ips on to ! ammunition ( ! ,fr5*1 & ! latt]1 !n be+ unable to return ! fire1 tri$ to rea* ,k5eh z be/ !y c\ld4 ,/range ?+s are (t5 relat$ by ,arab cu/odians6 ,! ma9 /reet ( ,kosseir is picturesque1 ) ! m9>et t[]+ above ! des]t$ %ops1 or r x might h be51 _h ! col\r$ /uffs & fruits & a busy ?rong be5 !re to furni% x ) ! usual prop]ties :i* make up an ori5tal /reet picture4 ,! two /alls :i* _h some?+ to sell _h no o!r cu/om]s ?an a sw>m ( flies1 & we %\ld h>dly h _h ! he>t to wake ! %opman f 8 pr(\nd sleep _h !re be5 any?+ wor? buy+4 ,! ,mudir _h _h ! little quay repair$1 z well z ! wood5 pi] :i* =m$ ! breakwat] to a small h>b\r4 ,he _h also f5c$ 9 a space ( ab\t a hundr$ y>ds squ>e 9 ! sea1 s z to all[ any "o :o wi%$ to ba! to be able to d s 9 safety f ! %>ks4 ,we m5tion$ t "o ( our p>ty _h ba!d ne> our camp1 & he 0 horrifi$1 = ! sea1 he told u1 0 alive ) %>ks4 #8,_h we n notic$ a %>k ly+ on ! /r& ) its ?roat cut8' ,we m5tion$ t we _h1 ?\gh n till aft] our fri5d's ba?4 ,we 7 !n told t a y\? 0 /&+ !re ) 8 feet j 9 ! sea :5 a %>k made a da% at him1 &1 miss+ 8 prey1 l&$ too high on ! bea* to be able to get back into ! wat] be=e ! y\? cut its ?roat4 ,?is _h only happ5$ a c\ple ( days be=e our arrival at ! coa/4 ,two high-/]n$ dh[s 7 bea*$ ne> "h = repairs2 !y add$ consid]ably to ! *>act]i/ics ( ! place1 :i* _h some?+ un-,egyptian ab\t !m4 ,kosseir is a ,r$ ,sea port1 & x be>s some?+1 h>d to def9e1 b :i* is n to be obs]v$ till on ?is side ( ,suez4 ,! p dress$ z ,egyptians2 b on /udy+ _! features m c>efully1 "o c\ld disc]n t no?+ ( ! old ,egyptian /ock 0 "h4 ,_! blood is ,arabian int]mix$ ) t ( ! ,ababdi tribe4 ,we 7 nei!r pe/]$ ) begg>s nor importun$ by ! (fici\sness met ) 9 ! ,nile resorts4 ,i return$ to ! mosque to />t my draw+1 & rema9$ !re until x 0 "t to jo9 our tea-p>ty at ! camp4 ,two or ?ree m5 dropp$ 9 dur+ ! midday pray]1 b ! c>etak] beckon$ to me n to move my easel4 ,"s boys arriv$ lat] on & sat ar\nd an old %eykh :o exp\nd$ ! ,koran to !m4 ,a date /one ( two hundr$ ye>s ago1 probably only allud$ to a re/oration4 ,i %\ld place ! orig9al con/ruction "s five c5turies e>li]1 ?\gh 9 an out-(-!-_w place su* z ?is ar*itectural /yle *anges v sl[ly4 ,i arriv$ at ! camp 9 "t = our tea-p>ty4 ,! gov]nor regrett$ t ,mrs4 ,wir? 0 n well en\gh to accompany him2 8 daught] 0 a pretty girl ( ab\t ?irte5 ye>s ( age4 ,! poor *ild seem$ v consci\s ( hav+ outgr[n h] frock1 judg+ f ! way %e kept smoo?+ x d[n ov] h] knees4 ,%e _h pl5ty to say = h]self1 & c\ld say x 9 f\r diff]5t languages4 ,h] fa!r regrett$ t no means ( educat+ ! *ild exi/$ except su* in/ruction z h] "m c\ld give h]1 & t !re 0 n ano!r *ild 9 ,kosseir = h] to associate )4 #8,if ,i c\ld only get h] to ,alex&ria & get !re myself also1' he said ) a sigh4 #8,x is f\r ye>s s9ce we _h an opportunity ( gett+ h] "s frocks4' ,! poor girl col\r$ up & seem$ m consci\s ( h] legs ?an ev]1 & _h ! la/ pleat ( h] skirt n be5 newly let out to its full limits1 we %\ld probably n h se5 h] at our p>ty4 ,! ,au/rian me*anic 0 pleas$ to f9d "s "o :o c\ld speak ,g]man2 b he1 poor man1 seem$ consci\s ( be+ )\t a coll> to 8 %irt4 ,x 0 difficult to put him at 8 ease till he got well laun*$ into ! subject ( :at a dismal hole ,kosseir 0 to live 94 ,! ,syrian doctor seem$ disappo9t$ at n see+ a possible pati5t among/ u2 we all look$ 9 disgu/+ly rude heal?4 ,we promis$ to look 9 at 8 disp5s>y ! next day1 :]e he assur$ u he _h ! means ( cop+ ) e ailm5t2 b z ! :ole population 0 always 9 ! be/ ( heal?1 "t hung heavily on 8 h&s4 ,he amus$ himself by fi%+ occasionally1 & told u ( ! extraord9>y numb] ( crayfi% :i* 7 to be got by ! simple process ( gett+ on to ! coral reefs at night & hold+ a c&le ov] ! pools4 ,! /upid creatures !n come to h a look at ! light1 & y h only !n to pick !m out ( ! wat] & put !m 9 ! basket4 ,%\ld we c>e to h a try1 he w\ld be delight$ to take u to ! be/ place t v night4 ,! moon 0 ! difficulty1 = a d>k night 0 necess>y4 ,x 0 settl$ t he %\ld br+ "s m5 & lant]ns at midnight1 :5 he reckon$ t ! moon w\ld h disappe>$4 ,we turn$ 9 aft] our d9n]1 s z to get :at sleep we c\ld be=e />t+ on our fi%+ exp$ition4 ,:5 ! doctor summon$ u t night1 ! moon 0 s high 9 ! sky t we 7 loa? to turn out4 ,b$ 0 s com=table2 :ile pott]+ ab\t on a sunk5 reef1 ) ! moon to spoil our sport1 seem$ h>dly good en\gh4 ,! doctor hop$ t ! moon w\ld be d[n be=e we rea*$ ! coral reefs1 & = ! fir/ "t we realis$ t ! reefs 7 ?ree miles away4 ,x seem$1 h[ev]1 ungraci\s n to g1 s (f we />t$4 ,! doctor 0 r depress$ :5 he he>d moonlight effects be+ discuss$1 ?\gh we 7 ?9k+ m ( its pictorial aspects ?an ( its influ5ce on crayfi%4 ,e>ly recollections ( coral isl&s1 9 a book :i* made my t5? bir?day memorable1 excit$ my curiosity to see at la/ :at a coral reef 0 l4 ,grottos z p9k z a necklace1 ( a t5-ye>-old little girl ,i associat$ ) my book1 rose 9 my imag9ation1 & to see ^! 9 a brilliant moonlight might m ?an comp5sate me = a poor cat* ( crayfi%4 ,we f\nd sev]al fi%]m5 on ! reefs1 & we 7 puzzl$ to guess :at !y 7 up to4 ,!y appe>$ to be walk+ on ! wat]1 = :5 we fir/ saw !m !y 7 "s di/ance out at sea1 & ! wat] look$ no %all[] ?an t :i* we _h hi!rto skirt$4 ,"s 7 runn+ ab\t & beat+ ! surface ) long /icks1 & ! proce$+s _h an uncanny look until we got ne> en\gh to foll[ :at !y 7 ab\t4 ,a long net1 :i* a c\ple ( m5 hung on to at ! wat]'s edge1 rea*$ "s di/ance into ! sea1 mak+ a slight curve to its fur!/ extremity1 :i* 0 held by "s m5 f> out on ! p>tially subm]g$ reef2 ! wat] 0 be+ beat5 ) ! object ( driv+ ! fi% into ! net4 ,! m5 fur!/ out pres5tly advanc$ t[>ds ! %ore1 dragg+ ! net ?r\gh ! deep wat] :ile !y walk$ along ! edge ( ! reef4 ,we 7 able to rea* !m by seldom be+ m ?an ankle deep1 tak+ c>e1 h[ev]1 to avoid ! deep holes 9 ! coral4 ,z ! net curv$ m & m on ! advance to ! %ore ( its fur!r end1 our int]e/ to see :at x w\ld br+ 9 became z great z t ( ! fi%]m54 ,:5 f9ally ! :ole net 0 drawn on to ! /r&1 we beheld z /range an assortm5t ( creatures z c be se5 9 ! ,naples ,aqu>ium4 ,"s _h transp>5t bodies ) long filmy t5tacles1 o!rs 7 difficult to class1 :e!r z fi% or z m>9e plants1 = !y 7 s rapidly pick$ up & ?r[n into baskets t we _h little "t to exam9e !m4 ,! que] ?+s left on ! %ore might safely be class$ z un$ible4 ,! m5 tell+ u t ! moon w\ld n be d[n till ?ree o'clock1 ,i bo!r$ no m ab\t crayfi%1 b f\nd pl5ty ( ent]ta9m5t 9 pe]+ into ! holes 9 ! reef4 ,! wat] 0 s transp>5t t1 :]e ! moonlight rea*$ ! bottom1 ! %ad[ ( my head 0 cle>ly def9$4 ,i might h be5 look+ into a dep? ( "o or two feet in/ead ( into sev]al fa?oms ( wat]4 ,"s ( ! beautifully arrang$ tanks 9 ! ,aqu>ium at ,naples might h be5 modell$ on :at ,i saw "h4 ,! holes 7 sometimes globul> 9 %ape1 ?\gh passages might h exi/$ :]e ! moonbeams did n fall4 ,two lights1 an in* or two ap>t1 mov$ ab\t 9 ! %ad[ ( "o ( ^! holes1 & disappe>$ :5ev] !y rea*$ ! moonlit "p4 ,i crept d[n on my knees to see if ,i c\ld di/+ui% any =m ar\nd ^! weird lights1 & z ,i c\ld n d s1 ,i conclud$ t !y 7 ! eyes ( a transp>5t fi% su* z ^? we _h se5 tak5 out ( ! fi%]m5's nets4 ,! lights disappe>+1 ,i crept r\nd to a hole a few y>ds (f1 & !re ,i c\ld di/+ui% ! entrance to a passage lead+ t[>ds ! hole ,i _h left4 ,! two lights reappe>$1 7 lo/ aga9 z !y pass$ ?r\gh ! moonlit space1 & se5 once m until !y 7 lo/ 9 "s cav]n 9 ! d>kness4 ,sea-anemones /uck to ! sides & hung f ! ro(s ( ^! fairylike *amb]s1 ! claws ( a h]mit crab j di/+ui%able 9 a holl[ at ! base ( :at look$ m l "s hot-h\se plant ?an ( a consci\s creature4 ,on t\*+ ! spread+ t5tacles ) my /ick1 !y rapidly contract$ to a conical knob4 ,! reefs 9 !mselves 7 a disappo9tm5t1 = ,i %\ld h>dly h kn[n !m z coral _h ,i n be5 told s2 b :at we saw ( ! m>vell\s =ms ( life conta9$ 9 _! cav]ns well repaid u = our night's excursion4 ,"s attempts 7 made to beguile ! crayfi% ) light$ c&les2 ?ree 7 br\ght back to our camp1 b ,i nev] q got rid ( a suspicion t ! ,syrian doctor _h caught ^! out ( ! fi%]m5's net by means ( a pia/re4 ,he ne$ n h look$ s sad ab\t 8 miscalculations1 = ea* "o ( u _h sp5t a mo/ int]e/+ h\r or m on ! reefs4 ,x became too cold = u to rema9 any long] 9 our wet clo!s1 & we 7 glad to tramp briskly back to our camp4 ,weigall & ,ersk9e ,nicol rode on ! foll[+ morn+ to ! ru9s ( ,old ,kosseir1 "s five miles nor? ( ! ,arab t[n1 :ile ,:ymp] & ,i return$ to ! mosque to f9i% our draw+s4 ,we paid ! doctor a visit 9 8 disp5s>y1 & 7 %[n h[ up-to-date 0 its equipm5t4 #8,b :at is ! use ( all ?is1' he said1 #8if no "o is ev] ill8'--"o m pro( ( ! +ratitude ( ! native4 ,we bid f>ewell to ! k9dly gov]nor1 & hop$ = 8 sake t he might soon be transf]r$ to "s m cong5ial place1 tru/+ t "o :o _h ! welf>e ( ! p at he>t z mu* z he _h might be f\nd to fill 8 po/4 ,may 8 *>m+ little daught] be :]e suitable companions ab\nd1 & also frocks long en\gh to rea* to h] ankles4 ,! doctor may n[ be surr\nd$ ) pati5ts m ?an en\gh1 = ! two ye>s' exile he !n anticipat$ are n[ ov]4 ,let u hope t ! ,au/rian eng9e] has be5 replac$ by "o ^: ord]s may all[ him to di/ribute ! di/ill$ wat] )\t hav+ to exact ! f>?+ p] bucket f ! impov]i%$ p ( ,kosseir4 ,we b\ght "s pretty %ells--ab\t ! only ?+s ! t[n _h to sell4 ,! good ,mudir spoke ! tru? :5 he said1 #8,9 ,kosseir d]e is noz+1 noz+1 noz+6' ,"s fi% 0 s5t to u z a dep>t+ pres5t :5 we 7 />t+ on our return j\rney to ! ,nile valley4 ,! :itewa%$ t[n 0 p9k 9 ! light f ! ris+ sun :5 we aga9 m\nt$ our camels4 ,kosseir 0 asleep1 & ,kosseir has probably slept ev] s9ce1 j wak+ up = a %ort :ile :5 ! coa/+ /eam] br+s ! bags ( fl\r4 ,,*apt] ,,xxii ,,edfu ,,& ,,! ,,qu>ries ,,( ,,gebel ,,silsileh ,! few incid5ts :i* occurr$ dur+ ! foll[+ six mon?s1 aft] ,i 0 re9/all$ 9 my hut at ,d] el-,bahri1 h be5 relat$ 9 previ\s *apt]s4 ,dur+ ! %ort season at ,luxor fri5ds & acqua9tances (t5 paid me a visit :5 go+ ! r\nds on ! ,!ban side ( ! ,nile4 ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,h]b]t ,p>k] induc$ me to leave my camp to sp5d ,*ri/ma/ide ) !m 9 ! delightful h\se !y _h lately built at ,assuan4 ,x is "o ( ! few new h\ses 9 ,upp] ,egypt :i* 9 aspect fits 9 exactly ) its surr\nd+s4 ,situat$ z x is on ! we/]n bank ( ! ,nile1 x comm&s a beautiful view bo? up & d[n ! riv]1 & ,elephant9e ,isl&1 ! only gre5 spot ne> ,assuan1 lies j opposite4 ,a m ideal resid5ce 9 :i* to pass ! w9t] mon?s w\ld be h>d to conceive4 ,w\ld t he :o built x _h be5 sp>$ to enjoy x = m ?an a few %ort seasons6 ,two ye>s previ\sly ,i _h sp5t ?ree mon?s ) !m on _! dahabieh4 ,h5ry ,simpson1 ! arti/1 0 ( our company4 ,we visit$ ev]y?+ wor? visit+ betwe5 ! fir/ & second cat>acts1 moor+ ! %ip :]ev] we f\nd a subject we wi%$ to pa9t4 ,?is is ! ideal way ( see+ ! ,nile1 & :51 z 9 ?is case1 cong5ial companion%ip is add$ to ! com=ts ( a well-equipp$ dahabieh1 no m delightful way ( tid+ ov] ! w9t] mon?s is imag9able4 ,a di>y 9 ! =m ( c>icatures ( ! daily ev5ts1 :i* ,mr4 ,simpson _h left ) ! ,p>k]s1 br\ght ^? pleasant times vividly back to u4 ,mrs4 ,p>k] & ,i made sev]al excursions to ,philae :ile !re 0 /ill a *ance ( record+ "s ( its beauty be=e x w\ld be entirely subm]g$ by ! rais+ ( ! ,assuan dam4 ,z x is propos$ t ,i %\ld treat ( ,nubia 9 ano!r volume1 ,i %all def] :at ,i may h to say on ,assuan & ( ! c\ntry s\? ( x4 ,t[>ds ! end ( my season at ,d] el-,bahri1 :i* z usual 0 two mon?s aft] ! hotels at ,luxor _h put up ! %utt]s1 ,mr4 ,weigall sugge/$ my sp5d+ ,june ) him 9 ! tombs & temples s\? ( ,!bes4 ,! valley 9 :i* ,i camp$ _h become a v]itable ov51 & my hut 0 unt5able till ! sun sank beh9d ! cliffs :i* =m ! amphi!atre beh9d ,hat%epsu's %r9e4 ,"s "w ,i wi%$ to d 9 ! temple ( ,edfu1 z well z to get %elt] f ! burn+ sun1 tempt$ me to accept ?is k9d invitation4 ,! qu>ries & %r9es at ,gebel ,silsileh1 ! tombs ( ,assuan & ! c\rts & colonnades at ,philae1 all held out hopes ( %ady places 9 :i* ,i %\ld f9d pl5ty ( subjects to pa9t4 ,our prep>ations 7 soon made4 ,on ! fir/ day ( ,june we took ! tra9 f ,luxor to ,edfu1 & 7 encamp$ t aft]noon 9 ! d>k %ades ( ! great temple ( ,horus4 ,! !rmomet] fell to #ajj ,fahr5heit 9 ! hypo/yle hall1 & we 7 grateful = ?is comp>ative coolness4 ,our attire c\ld safely be ( ! scantie/1 z !re 0 no fe> ( a p>ty ( tripp]s arriv+ at ?is "t ( ! ye>4 ,%oes 7 advisable till ! pavem5ts _h be5 exam9$1 = 9 "s seasons ! temple is infe/$ ) scorpions4 ,happily ?is 0 a poor scorpion season1 & b>ely a doz5 7 kill$ dur+ ! eight days we sp5t !re4 ,we decid$ on ! hypo/yle hall z our d9+-room1 unless ! op5 c\rt %\ld cool d[n suffici5tly aft] sund[n2 our b$s 7 to be made on ! ro( ( ! great ve/ibule1 & no cool] spot c\ld be apportion$ = our midday sie/a ?an 9 "o ( ! corridors :i* run r\nd ! sanctu>y4 ,:at e>?ly pot5tate c\ld claim s maje/ic a dwell+-place8 ,if an apology = its mod]nity be ne$$ to ^? ^: int]e/s lie 9 ! e>li] dyna/ic rema9s1 we at all ev5ts _h a ro( ov] our heads1 & ,edfu temple1 ?\gh %orn ( its furniture1 is n a ru94 ,go+ back to pre-,ptolemaic times1 no temple 9 ,egypt exi/s :]e imag9ation has n to fill 9 great portions :i* are n 9 ! places :i* ! build]s design$ = !m4 ,edfu temple is d\btless ! gr&e/ pres]v$ edifice 9 ! _w :i* c date back r m ?an two ?\s& ye>s4 ,"s portions are out ( repair2 b let u hope t no m attempts at re/oration may be made1 m ?an to tie or buttress su* places t may be 9 dang] ( fall+4 ,all cr$it is due to ,m>iette1 :o1 "u ! auspices ( ,sad ,pa%a1 cle>$ ! temple ( ! rubbi% :i* 9 places fill$ x to ! ro(+ slabs2 a "p ( ! t[n actually /ood on ! ro(4 ,! rubbi% hills :i* surr\nd x are gradually less5+1 = ! septic mat]ial ( :i* !y are compos$ s]ves z a valuable manure to ! fields ar\nd4 ,! entire build+ took #ahg ye>s to complete1 its progress go+ on m or less un9t]rupt$ly dur+ ! rule ( elev5 ( ! ,ptolemies4 ,! design is s complete t x is h>d to believe t "o ar*itect did n draw up all ! plans4 ,i d n purpose to give ! details ( ?is va/ build+1 z ?is has be5 s adequately done by ,ba$ek] & 9 o!r guide-books4 ,curi\sly en\gh ! ,ba$ek]1 :i* s accurately describes ! mo/ int]e/+ details to be obs]v$1 makes no m5tion ( ! dim5sions1 ?\gh ! fir/ ?+ :i* impresses ! visitor is ! va/ness ( ! build+4 ,actual measurem5ts are liable to d little m ?an give an impression ( size1 b a comp>ison ) well-kn[n /ructures (t5 conveys a tru] conception4 ,! area ( ,/4 ,paul's1 9 squ>e feet measurem5t1 is #bh1jej1 t ( ,/4 ,pet]'s at ,rome is #ed1jjj1 :ile ! temple at ,edfu cov]s an area ( #hj1jjj squ>e feet4 ,!re is b "o o!r temple 9 ,egypt ) :i* we c comp>e x1 & t is ! temple ( ,d5d]ah4 ,b 9 e way x is ,d5d]ah's sup]ior4 ,! great temple ( ,ammon at ,k>nak 0 rais$ :5 ,egyptian art 0 at a high] level ?an at ! "t ( ! ,ptolemies1 &1 gr& z t ru9 may be1 x fails to impress "o z mu* z ! almo/ intact /ructure "h at ,edfu4 ,! temples ( ,edfu1 ( ,d5d]ah1 & ( ,esneh1 ?\gh all ?ree 7 rais$ dur+ a debas$ p]iod ( ,egyptian art1 owe _! impressiv5ess *iefly to ! fact t !y /ill h a ro( above !m4 ,! subdu$ light ( ! ve/ibule1 ! dimm] light ( ! hypo/yle hall1 & ! increas+ d>kness z "o passes ?r\gh ! next two *amb]s till ! blackness ( ! sanctu>y is rea*$1 /rikes ! imag9ation to a degree :i* no sunlit ru9s c d1 be !y ev] s f9e4 ,! reliefs :i* cov] e wall space & column are n to be comp>$ ) ! ref9$ "w 9 ,hat%epsu's %r9e2 b 9 ?is dim religi\s light !y s]ve _! purpose1 & ! g5]al effect is 9 no wise dim9i%$4 ,! sculptur$ reliefs1 on ! girdle-wall & ! pylons1 :i* are se5 9 broad daylight1 suff] greatly 9 comp>ison ) ! eighte5? dyna/y "w4 ,b tak5 z a :ole1 ! design ( ^! temples is probably m beautiful ?an 0 t ( ! e>li] /ructures1 ( :i* only fragm5ts n[ rema94 ,a ,greek mo/ likely furni%$ ! design1 ! detail be+ left to ,egyptians :o _h lo/ mu* ( _! arti/ry4 ,we asc5d$ to ! ro( by a long incl9$ plane 9 ! ?ickness ( "o ( ! walls1 & 9 ! comp>ative coolness ( ! ev5+ we wat*$ ! sun dip into ! col\r$ mi/s :i* hung ov] ! cultivation betwe5 u & ! ,libyan des]t4 ,edfu spreads r\nd ?ree sides ( ! temple1 & we got a bird's-eye view ( ! m$ley ( mud huts1 little c\rty>ds1 & mode/ places ( wor%ip :i* g to make up a small ,nilotic t[n4 ,*ildr5 7 at play amid/ ! cattle & f[ls 9 ! y>ds1 :ile _! eld]s 7 att5d+ to _! h\sehold duties on ! ro(4 ,! h\ses 7 on a high] level z !y ne>$ ! temple1 & ! piles ( dbris on :i* !y /ood 7 %>ply cut away a few y>ds f ! girdle-wall1 =m+ a second enclosure on t side ( u4 ,x 0 easily se5 t be=e ! temple 0 cle>$ ! incl9e ( ! rubbi% m\nds w\ld h rea*$ to ! ro( we /ood on4 ,9 a lett] :i* ,m>iette wrote 9 #ahfj to ! ,rvue ,ar*ologique1 he says3 #8,i caus$ to be demoli%$ ! sixty-f\r h\ses :i* encumb]$ ! ro(1 z well z tw5ty-eight m :i* approa*$ too ne> ! out] wall ( ! temple4 ,:5 ! :ole %all be isolat$ f its pres5t surr\nd+s by a massive wall1 ! "w ( ,edfu w be accompli%$4' ,some?+ simil> to :at ,m>iette f\nd "h fifty ye>s ago may /ill be se5 at ! nor? end ( ! ,luxor temple1 :]e a mosque & a clu/] ( h\ses /ill rema9 on ! top1 on ! yet unexcavat$ portions4 ,! ap]tures 9 ! ro(+ slabs 7:i* n[ at midday all[ ( "s rays ( sunlight to light5 ! int]ior7 s]v$ z dra9s to c>ry (f ! fil? f ! h\ses on ! ro(4 ,no wond] t ! fellahe5 gladly n[ fatt5 _! l& ) ! sc\r+s f ! temple enclosure4 ,_m ( ! small] objects n[ se5 9 ! ,antika %ops are f\nd by ! peasants :ile !y load _! asses ) ?is septic rubbi%4 ,sub-inspectors & gu>ds are told (f to wat* ^! op]ations2 b x is seldom t any?+ :i* is n too heavy to c>ry (f c be sav$ to ! ,antiquities ,dep>tm5t4 ,x is no s9ecure be+ ,*ief ,inspector ov] z ext5d$ an area z t :i* is 9 ,mr4 ,weigall's *>ge4 ,by ! light ( a c\ple ( c&les we d9$ 9 ! c\rty>d4 ,! aft]gl[ caught ! top ( ! propylon z we sat d[n--f a deep rose x sank to a slaty grey1 & !n sl[ly d>k5$ to a black mass aga9/ ! />lit sky4 ,! two gu>dians prec$$ u ) c&les1 s t we c\ld f9d our way to ! /airway entrance at ! fur!r end ( ! temple4 ,?\s&s ( bats squeak$ & flutt]$ above1 di/urb$ by ^! unwont$ lights2 & f ! r\nd$ columns1 ^: summits 7 lo/ 9 ! d>kness1 bea/ & bird head$ gods seem$ to res5t our intrusion into ! sacr$ prec9cts4 ,:5 we asc5d$ ! incl9$ /airway we rubb$ %\ld]s ) ! div9ities & ! ,ptolemies :i* l9$ ! wall surfaces ( ! n>r[ passage to ! ro(4 ,selim _h fix$ up our camp b$s above ! great ve/ibule1 :i* is consid]ably high] ?an ! inn] prec9cts ( ! temple2 & "h we slept well above ! gods1 b b5ea? ! canopy ( ! heav5s4 ,we arose ) ! fir/ glimm] ( light 9 ! ea/]n sky & f\nd ,selim prep>+ our ba? on ! ro(4 ,:5 we desc5d$ to ! int]ior ( ! temple we f\nd t ! !rmomet] _h only fall5 ?ree degrees4 ,! c\rty>d 0 aga9 our coole/ breakfa/+ place1 besides be+ m or less free f ! smell ( bats1 :i* is a di/9ctive feature ( all enclos$ temples4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pott]y ,,baza> ,,9 ,a ,,nile ,,village ,! t[n is z unspoilt z any on ! banks ( ! ,nile1 & ! e>ly morn+ & ev5+ are ! only times :5 x is possible to explore x 9 com=t at ?is "t ( ! ye>4 ,i f\nd "s delightful subjects 9 ! little baza>1 & c\ld pa9t "h till ! sun drove me f :]e ,i _h set up my easel4 ,! temple int]ior1 ev5 at a hundr$ degrees ( ,fahr5heit1 !n became a welcome %elt] f ! burn+ sun4 ,my companion 0 engag$ on "s lit]>y "w & nev] /irr$ out ( ! temple till dusk4 ,aft] lun* we w\ld retire to improvis$ b$s ne> ! sanctu>y1 & a ray ( sunlight desc5d+ ?r\gh a slit 9 ! ro( gave u light by :i* we c\ld read till we fell asleep4 ,we sp5t eight days 9 ! %ades ( ?is maje/ic %r9e1 & ?\gh ,weigall _h br\ght q a libr>y ( books on ?+s ,egyptological & 0 also able flu5tly to read ! inscriptions ) :i* ! walls are cov]$1 we c\ld only cull a fraction ( ! fl[]y descriptions ( ! de$s t 7 done :ile ?is temple ( ,horus 0 be+ rais$4 ,i made a c>eful /udy ( a f9e panel on ! inn] side ( ! we/]n girdle-wall4 ,x repres5ts a %ip ) exp&$ sail1 ) ,isis kneel+ at ! pr[ & ,horus a/ride on ! deck laun*+ a javel9 into a m9ute hippopotamus ne> ! edge ( ! riv]2 bo? he & ! goddess hold a cord :i* is atta*$ to ! bea/4 ,! k+ /&s on ! bank & is also driv+ a spe> into ! victim4 ,! figures are s beautifully drawn & ! panel is s decoratively fill$1 t :5 we speak ( ! debas$ art ( ! ,ptolemies1 x mu/ be und]/ood z be+ s only 9 comp>ison ) ! sup]latively f9e "w ( "s ( ! e>li] dyna/ies4 ,we left ,edfu 9 ! e>ly morn+ to /ep on to a /eam-laun* :i* w\ld run u up to ,gebel ,silsileh 9 six h\rs4 ,i seem$ awak5$ f a sleep g5tly di/urb$ ) dreams 9 :i* ! great1 ( an age long pa/1 & _! /range div9ities _h sl[ly fil$ be=e me1 to be lo/ 9 ! d>kness ( ,edfu's sanctu>y4 ,! /eam-laun* seem$ an ana*ronism aft] ! eight days dur+ :i* we _h be5 transport$ back to times be=e ! dawn ( ,*ri/ianity4 ,runn+ aga9/ ! curr5t our progress 0 sl[2 b x 0 a giddy spe$ comp>$ ) t ( ! ,nile boats we ov]took1 ?\gh _! great sails 7 swell$ ) ! w9d bl[+ up ! riv]4 ,ly+ on a mattress 9 ! %ade ( an extemporis$ awn+ & enjoy+ ! breeze :i* ov]took u1 we c\ld ?or\ghly enjoy "s h\rs ( complete laz9ess :i* we glorifi$ by ! "n ( well-des]v$ re/4 ,x seem$ a pity to fall asleep & to lose consci\sness = a mom5t ( ?is delici\s feel+ ( fre% air & pleasant coolness4 ,objects we pass$ 7 j ( suffici5t int]e/ n to ov]-excite u1 b j to prev5t any feel+ ( monotony4 ,! rema9s ( a ,byzant9e =tifi$ t[n ) ! ru9s ( a conv5t spread picturesquely ov] ! cre/ ( ! hill es-,s]g4 ,i %\ld l to h made a sket* ( ?is1 ?\gh ,i soon f\nd consolation 9 ! ?\ght t ,i might pass "h aga9 & cat* x 9 a m pictorial light+4 ,consolation = mo/ ills comes easily :ile afloat on ! ,nile4 ,! "* ( ! l&scape *anges consid]ably "h4 ,! nummulite lime/one hills1 ) _! pretty crag & cliff draw+1 give place to ! s&/one rocks4 ,anci5t qu>ries ) inscriptions ab\nd1 & _h we n be5 mak+ = ! f>-fam$ qu>ries ( ,silsileh1 we might h felt incl9$ to /op & exam9e "s4 ,we rea*$ our de/9ation 9 ! e>ly aft]noon1 & moor$ on ! we/ bank ( ! riv]4 ,gebel ,silsileh 7! ,m\nta9 ( ! ,*a97 is s call$ on acc\nt ( a tradition t anci5t k+s "h block$ ! riv] ) a *a9 /ret*$ across x f ! cliffs on ei!r side4 ,! ,nile contracts to )9 a c\ple ( hundr$ y>ds1 & ! rocks rise1 9 mo/ places1 %e] out ( ! wat]4 ,t a m natural b>ri] ?an ?is *a9 once block$ ! riv] is evid5t1 & also t x held up ! wat]s 9 ,l[] ,nubia suffici5tly to =ce a second arm ( ! riv] to fl[ along ! l[-ly+ l& betwe5 ! fir/ cat>act1 & on ! we/]n side ( ,assuan4 ,a great disruption ( ! b>ri] is said to h tak5 place t[>ds ! end ( ! ,hyksos p]iod1 :5 until !n x 0 probably a ru%+ cat>act4 ,b 9 prehi/oric times1 :5 ! c\rse ( ! ,nile 0 completely block$ at ?is gorge1 ! riv] mu/ h fl[$ ?r\gh o!r *annels = a hundr$ miles or m4 ,we fix$ on a tomb recess1 cut out ( a rock fac+ nor?1 z our liv+-room1 & put (f decid+ :]e we %\ld sleep till we f\nd :i* place might be ! coole/ aft] ! sun _h gone d[n4 ,selim improvis$ a kit*5 9 a disus$ tomb ne>] ! edge ( ! riv]4 ,^! arrangem5ts be+ complet$1 we visit$ ! num]\s objects ( int]e/ on our side ( ! ,nile4 ,! rock *apel1 kn[n z ! ,speos ( ,h>emheb1 lies fur!/ nor?1 & x conta9s "s v beautiful late eighte5? dyna/y "w4 ,a relief ( ! "y k+ tak+ ! div9e milk at ! brea/ ( a goddess c be comp>$ 9 beauty ) ! simil> subject 9 ! ,seti temple at ,abydos4 ,! workman%ip appe>+ co>s] "h is ow+ to ! s&/one n hav+ ! m>ble-l surface ( ! nummulite lime/one 9 ! latt] temple4 ,! relief ( ,k+ ,h>emheb return+ 9 triumph f ,cu% 7g5]ally suppos$ to be ! di/rict betwe5 ! fir/ two cat>acts1 :i* we n[ "k z ,nubia7 is also v beautiful1 & rem9ds "o /rongly ( "s ( ! ,d] el-,bahri "w4 ,! ,speos itself is v int]e/+1 be+ a =m ( %r9e ( a plan diff]5t to any ,i _h s f> se54 ,x is a long n>r[ *amb] p>allel ) ! rock-face1 & ent]$ by five doorways :i* are sep>at$ f ea* o!r by f\r squ>e pill>s hewn out ( ! rock4 ,9 ! c5tre ( ! back wall is an entrance to an inn] *amb] also cov]$ ) reliefs1 except ! end :i* faces ! doorway :]e damag$ /atues ( ! ,ph>aoh & ( six gods occupy ea* a recess4 ,= ! be/ "p ( half a mile we scrambl$ ov] ! rocks & ?r\gh disus$ qu>ries1 exam9+ a numb] ( little %r9es1 tomb recesses & /ele1 all ( :i* are m or less ornam5t$ ) reliefs :ile "s %[ traces ( col\r4 ,?ree impos+ *apels hewn out ( ! solid rock are at ! s\? end ( ! qu>ries4 ,^! are votive %r9es to ,seti ,i41 ,rameses ,,ii41 & to ! son ( ! latt]1 ,m]5ptah--prosc5ium-%ap$ alcoves support$ by columns ( ! clu/]$ papyrus type1 & surm\nt$ ) bold cornices4 ,a rank gr[? ( scrub on ! /rip ( l& betwe5 ! %r9es & ! riv] reliev$ ! amb] hues ( ! s&/one1 & "s t\*es ( pure col\r 9 ! %r9es !mselves help$ to make ?is a promis+ subject = a picture4 ,our camp 0 ab\t midway betwe5 ! ,speos & ^! votive %r9es4 ,selim 0 prep>+ our d9n] :5 we return$1 & dur+ ^! odd mom5ts we enjoy$ a swim 9 ! ,nile4 ,z usual we cut our ev5+s %ort by retir+ e>ly to b$1 & we began our days ) ! fir/ glimm] ( light4 ,we sp5t f\r delightful days "h1 ,weigall collect+ ,egyptological facts1 & ,i increas+ my numb] ( draw+s4 ,we %\ld h /ay$ "h long]2 b h[ ?is soj\rn1 z well z ! rema9d] ( our exp$ition1 came to an end1 w =m ! subject ( ano!r *apt]4 ,,*apt] ,,xxiii ,,my ,,exp]i5ces ,,z ,,an ,,inmate ,,( ,a ,,native ,,hospital ,i _h plac$ my b$ on a rock high en\gh to get ! b5efit ( any brea? ( cool] air :i* ! nor? breeze might br+2 ! nightly drop 9 ! temp]ature usual 9 ! des]t does n obta9 9 l mann] on ! edge ( ! ,nile4 ,our exalt$ position on ! ro( ( ,edfu temple _h be5 conducive to sleep1 & dur+ ! fir/ ?ree nights ,i slept well1 p]*$ up on my rock4 ,/range dreams1 h[ev]1 di/urb$ ! f\r? night4 ,my id5tity got hopelessly mix$ up ) t ( ,horus2 ! /eam-laun* & ! %ip ,i _h copi$ at ,edfu temple became a composite craft1 ) ! lasso$ hippopotamus s]v+ z a drag an*or4 ,i res5t$ ! anxiety %[n by ! goddess 9 ! pr[ to meet ! h&some "y k+ on ! bank1 & felt ,i 0 h&icapp$ 9 my c\rt%ip by hav+ a hawk's head4 ,my div9ity 0 outweigh$ by ! good looks ( ! mortal1 & ,i 0 prep>+ to use my spe> 9 z effective a mann] on him z ,i _h on ! hippopotamus1 :5 ! boat bump$ heavily aga9/ ! bank & awoke me4 ,i 0 %iv]+ on ! rock1 hav+ fall5 out ( my b$1 & 0 soon consci\s en\gh to "k t ,i _h fev]4 ,i nev] sleep out ( doors )\t hav+ a blanket h&y to pull ov] me 9 case ( a sudd5 drop 9 ! temp]ature1 & ,i made use ( x n[4 ,i c\ld n tru/ myself to climb d[n ! rock & get to ! m %elt]$ place ( my companions1 nor c\ld ,i make any "o he> me4 ,sl[ly ! night w5t by1 %iv]+ fits alt]nat+ ) fanta/ic dreams--yet no incl9ation to rise came ) ! dawn4 ,i he>d %\ts f bel[ t breakfa/ 0 ready1 b all ! breakfa/ ,i want$ 0 a dose ( qu99e4 ,my fri5d climb$ up br++ me ! drug1 & 0 anxi\s to see :at 0 ! matt]4 ,?9k+ x 0 a t\* ( ! mal>i\s fev] :i* = ye>s ,i _h be5 subject to1 ,i hop$ t 9 a day or two ,i %\ld be all "r aga94 ,i c\ld n1 h[ev]1 rema9 :]e ,i lay1 = z ! sun got up1 s my rock became unt5able4 ,gett+ into ! %ade ( ! tomb1 :i* we call$ our liv+-room1 ways & means 7 discuss$1 ,i acquiesc+ 9 :atev] my fri5d propos$4 ,assuan 0 ! ne>e/ place :]e a doctor c\ld be f\nd1 & a f\r-mile ride w\ld take u to ! ne>e/ /ation on ! l9e4 ,a tra9 left ab\t two o'clock1 & donkeys might be obta9able at ! ne>e/ village4 ,we drift$ d[n ! ,nile to ! ne>e/ spot f :i* we c\ld ride to ! /ation1 & :ile writ+ ^! l9es t ride comes back to me z a horrible nightm>e4 ,! midday sun ( ,june 9 ,upp] ,egypt is c>efully avoid$ by ^? 9 ! be/ ( heal?1 ev5 :5 a well-saddl$ donkey is obta9able4 ,b ill z ,i 01 ) no?+ b a sack ( /raw = a saddle1 ! trials ( t ride are indescribable4 ,my sket*+ umbrella & pi? helmet 7 a protection f ! direct rays ( ! sun1 b none f ! scor*+ heat :i* rose f ! bak$ soil4 ,:5 we left ! s&/one rocks on our "r we got on to ! cultivat$ l&1 & ,i c\ld see ! little /ation1 across ! pla91 trembl+ 9 ! heat$ air4 ,i manag$ someh[ to get !re )\t tumbl+ (f ! /raw sack1 & ,i _h t sack tak5 (f my donkey to use x z a pill[ on ! /ation floor4 ,"s fellahe5 7 ly+ ab\t on ! flags1 & ev5 !y seem$ ov]come ) ! ov5-l heat ( ! /ation1 on ! flat ro( ( :i* ! v]tical rays ( ! sun _h be5 beat+4 ,! tra9 s]vice 9 ,upp] ,egypt is excell5t :ile ! t\ri/ season is on2 b1 z may be suppos$1 few tra9s crawl along ! des]t track 9 midsumm]4 ,happily !re is g5]ally "o fir/-class c> atta*$1 on ! *ance ( "s (ficial be+ oblig$ to make a j\rney1 & 9 ?is c> !re is (t5 a sunk well 9 ! floor1 :i* s]ves z a small ice cell>4 ,i _h at o!r times unfav\rably contra/$ ! luxuri\sness ( ! (ficial c> ) ! cattle trucks :i* seem$ good en\gh = ! natives4 ,i =gave !m readily en\gh n[1 :ile ,i gre$ily drank ( ! cold wat] obta9able by means ( ! ice cell>4 ,=tunately1 also1 "o dec5t hotel rema9s op5 at ,assuan aft] ! m luxuri\s ones put up _! %utt]s4 ,i c\ld1 !re=e1 look =w>d to a com=table b$ aft] ! five long h\rs ( ! tra9 j\rney4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,village ,,( ,,m>g ,:5 ! proprietor seem$ satisfi$ t ,i _h nei!r ! plague nor *ol]a1 a room 0 got ready = me1 & ! only ,european doctor !n 9 ,assuan 0 soon at my b$side4 ,he 0 a k9d-he>t$ ,swiss mission>y1 :o _h /ill f\r days to rema9 "h be=e he left = ,j]usalem1 & %\ld ,i n be well en\gh to move !n1 ! p]man5t m$ical man at ! dam c\ld be s5t = f ,%ellal4 ,he said ,i 0 d[n ) sun/roke1 & ord]$ an ice-bag to be put to my head1 & told me ,i c\ld put ano!r on my *e/ if ,i lik$4 ,he look$ 9 aga9 ab\t midnight1 & sev]al ,engli%m5 also call$ to (f] any assi/ance !y c\ld give4 ,:o !y 7 & :at !y said ,i only f\nd out :5 ,i return$ to ,egypt ! foll[+ season4 ,"o s5t5ce1 h[ev]1 ,i und]/ood1 & t 0 t ! !rmomet] _h rea*$ #abd degrees 9 ! %ade dur+ ! aft]noon4 ,i 0 also consci\s en\gh1 :5 left alone1 ( a cutt+ pa9 9 ! "r side ( my *e/1 & decid$ to disp5se ) ! ice-bag !re until ,i knew :at ?is pa9 meant4 ,i he>d voices 9 ano!r room1 & a decl>ation ( #8no trumps1' also an argum5t ab\t #8go+ diamonds1' & ,i felt a c]ta9 com=t t c\ntrym5 ( m9e 7 ne> at h&4 ,:ile ,i lay awake t night a curi\s s5sation t ,i 0 two p got hold ( me4 ,0 x ,i or my d\ble :o felt ?is cutt+ pa98 ,& ^: turn 0 x to take ! m$ic9e ! doctor _h left8 ,x 0 v na/y1 & ,i r res5t$ t my d\ble _h n fairly %>$ 9 ! ta/e4 ,! ,ka 7:i* ! anci5t ,egyptians believ$ 0 born ) ! body1 z di/9ct f ! s\l7 s]v$ z a gu>dian _s or #8d\ble1' :o accompani$ ! mortal dur+ 8 lifetime & t5d$ to 8 wants aft] dea? z long z 8 rema9s 7 pres]v$ 9 _! mummy /ate4 ,"o ( u mu/ be ?is ,ka1 ,i ?\ght2 & :e!r ,i or ! o!r fell[ 0 ! #8d\ble' ex]cis$ :at little m9d ,i c\ld br+ to be> on ! subject4 ,! ,swiss mission>y came e>ly ! next day1 & 0 evid5tly n satisfi$ t sun/roke 0 entirely my compla9t4 ,he s\nd$ my *e/1 & call$ out1 #8,oh1 x is pleurisy4' ,he seem$ v excit$1 & said t1 ?\gh occupi$ mo/ ( 8 "t ) p's bodies1 x 0 _! s\ls :i* conc]n$ him mo/4 #8,z a doctor ,i c give y no hope1 b z a mission>y ,i c tell y t ev]y?+ is possible ) ,god4 ,:at is y\r "n8' ,i told him ?is1 &1 />tl$ z ,i 01 ,i /ill puzzl$ :e!r ! "n appli$ to me or to my #8d\ble4' ,i c j recall ! good man go+ d[n on 8 knees1 & also 8 l\d & e>ne/ pray]s2 b ow+ to my semi-deliri\s /ate ,i c recall no?+ ( ! latt] b ! good man's =eign acc5t4 ,:y pleurisy %\ld h s mu* al>m$ him ,i _c say1 z ,i c recall _m :o h got ! bett] ( x4 ,"o good ?+ ab\t x 0 t ,i c\ld be att5d$ to by ! hotel s]vants1 :o up till t "t w\ld n answ] my bell2 !y evid5tly 7 n satisfi$ till !n t ,i 0 n d[n ) *ol]a4 ,! fev] abat$ some:at ) ! new treatm5t1 & ,i 0 able to recognise ,weigall & "o or two o!r acqua9tances :o look$ 94 ,! doctor 0 mo/ att5tive1 & advis$ my go+ ) him z f> z ,assi\t1 :]e !re is a good hospital run by ! ,am]ican ,mission4 ,he call$ 9 ! native m$ical man to get a second op9ion z to :e!r ,i c\ld d ! j\rney1 & betwe5 ! two ( !m x 0 decid$ t ,i _h bett] risk ! j\rney ?an risk rema9+ 9 ! t]rible heat ( ,assuan )\t any means ( prop] nurs+4 ,! ,swiss doctor w\ld accompany me z f> z ,assi\t1 & he w\ld wire to ! mission to h me met at ! /ation & take me to ! hospital4 ,we left ,assuan aft] ,i _h be5 !re f\r days1 & a fri5d :o 0 a manag] ( ! l9e got a sleep+-c> put on to ! tra94 ,we />t$ 9 ! morn+1 & aft] a ?irte5-h\r j\rney we rea*$ ,assi\t 9 ! dead ( night4 ,"h ,i _h to "p company ) ! ,swiss doctor1 :o 0 on 8 way to ,j]usalem4 ,n[1 :e!r ! telegram ev] rea*$ ! mission or n ,i c't say2 anyh[1 ! doctor look$ 9 va9 = any "o connect$ ) ! hospital4 ,a good ,sam>itan 9 ! %ape ( a ,scot1 connect$ ) ! gov]nm5t1 _h =tunately travell$ d[n 9 ! same tra91 & by good luck ,assi\t 0 8 de/9ation also4 ,i c recall 8 c>ry+ me to a c>riage1 & ,i c also recall 8 slapp+ ! *eek ( a native :o tri$ to =ce 8 way 9 :ile he clam\r$ = bak%ee%4 ,he rang up ! hall-port] at ! hospital1 :5 we rea*$ x1 & ask$ if ,i 0 n expect$4 ,! port] knew no?+ ab\t x1 & said e "o _h retir$ = ! night2 !re 01 h[ev]1 an empty b$ 9 ! room kept = occasional pay+ pati5ts4 ,i 0 !n plac$ on t b$ :ile ! port] 0 s5t to in=m ! head ( ! mission ( my arrival4 ,on 8 return he told u t ! hakim 0 dress+ & w\ld be d[n 9 a few m9utes2 !re 0 !re=e no occasion = ! ,scotsman1 :o _h be5 su* a fri5d 9 ne$1 to wait any long]4 ,x 0 !n ab\t "o o'clock1 & ,i lay on t b$ till half-pa/ sev5 9 ! morn+ be=e ,i saw ano!r s\l except t port]1 & he kept out ( my way z mu* z he c\ld1 = ,i don't believe he ev] w5t to ! doctor's rooms4 ,nev] %all ,i =get t night1 & h[ ,i regrett$ t ,i _h n sp5t x 9 ! tra9 & gone to a hospital 9 ,cairo4 ,! port] snor$ 9 ! passage until x 0 "t = him to give out doses to ! pati5ts1 & !n he rang a bell j ov] ! entrance to my room & bawl$ out ! names ( ^? :o 7 to take _! m$ic9e4 ,! wat*m5 9 ! /reet1 at int]vals1 call$ wah$ ) a long pla9tive drawl on ! la/ syllable1 & ?is />t$ e sleep+ dog b>k+ once m4 ,a fretful baby 9 a dormitory next to my room put a treble to ! bass notes ( ! wat*m5 & ! h[l+ ( ! dogs4 ,i tri$ to awak5 ! snor+ brute ( a port] s t ,i might get some?+ to dr9k2 b my voice 0 n /rong en\gh to h any effect1 & ,i _h to lie !re p]i%+ ) ?ir/ till ! "t came = t dreadful bell to be rung4 ,:5 f9ally he br\ght me a glass ( milk my #8d\ble' 0 once m keep+ me company--& "o small glass = two p seem$ a p]fect mock]y ( my ?ir/4 ,?us ,i lay 9 ! clo!s ,i travell$ 9 till a vision ( a m9i/]+ angel1 9 :ite cap & p9a=e1 appe>$ 9 ! doorway4 ,%e ask$ ! port] :o ,i 0 & :5 ,i _h arriv$1 = until t mom5t no "o 9 ! hospital 0 aw>e ( my exi/5ce except t ly+ port]4 ,%e s5t = ! doctor1 got a sleep+-suit out ( my trunk1 & ) ! help ( a male att5dant %e put me to b$4 ,dr4 ,h5ry1 an active1 r ov]-middle-ag$ ,am]ican :o has *>ge ( ! mission1 0 ab\t z great a contra/ to ! little ,swiss doctor z x is possible to conceive4 ,he ask$ no que/ions till he _h s\nd$ my *e/1 & !n gave ! m9i/]+ angel1 o!rwise ,si/] ,dora1 ord]s to prep>e a pneumonia jacket4 #8,ev] _h pneumonia be=e8' he j]k$ out1 & on my say+ t ,i _h n1 & also t ! ,swiss doctor said ,i _h pleurisy1 he retort$1 #8,guess y've got bo?4' ,possibly ly+ all night betwe5 ! op5 w9d[ & door _h add$ ?is to ! li/ ( my compla9ts4 ,dr4 ,h5ry 0 too practical a man to wa/e mu* ?\ght on idle speculations z to causes2 "h 0 some?+ def9ite to g =1 & he w5t = x 9 good e>ne/4 #8,t lung is cle>+ itself tiptop1' he w\ld say ) pr(essional pride aft] ! f\r? or fif? exam9ation4 ,! sun/roke 0 cur+ itself1 unless my #8d\ble1' :o _h left me1 _h gone (f ) x4 ,! pneumonia jacket & ! night noises 7 my *ief discom=t aft] a few days4 ,assi\t 0 di/9ctly cool] ?an ,assuan1 ?\gh !re is pl5ty ( room = heat )\t rea*+ #abd ( ,fahr5heit 9 ! %ade4 ,a cotton-wool jacket ab\t two in*es ?ick 0 a sev]e trial & x /uck to me l a wet hot sponge1 & be=e x 0 ?9n$ d[n to vani%+ po9t ,i 0 cov]$ ) prickly heat :i* ,i did n lose till aft] ,i _h got back to ,engl&4 ,i 0 v anxi\s to write home1 z my wife mu/ h be5 al>m$ at n hav+ he>d = "s "t4 ,! ,swiss doctor's gloomy =eca/s might easily be correct1 & ,i wi%$ to put my affairs 9 ord]4 ,writ+ 01 h[ev]1 su* an ex]tion t ,i decid$ fir/ to ask ,dr4 ,h5ry :e!r my *ances ( recov]y 7 good1 & if s to put (f correspond5ce until ,i c\ld m easily manage x4 ,i ask$ him to tell me if ,i 0 likely to die1 & 8 %ort #8,guess n' act$ z a /imulant1 & "o also :i* 0 n foll[$ by a reaction4 ,_h ,i n _h t irritat+ prickly heat ,i %\ld h enjoy$ ! feel+ ( daily ga9+ /r5g?4 ,?ree o!r nurses us$ to come & relieve ,si/] ,dora2 ! head "o 0 a f9e /rapp+ ,am]ican lady ) a /rong & *e]y face :i* act$ l a tonic4 ,!re 0 also a si/] f ,holl& :o c\ld wa% me z clean z a ,dut* milk-c4 ,i c\ld *at ) h] 9 h] own language1 & :ile we talk$ ( ! juicy gre5 mead[s ( h] c\ntry1 x seem$ to make my room feel cool]4 ,i saw lea/ ( ! ,g]man si/]1 :o _h "s accid5t cases :i* took up mo/ ( h] "t4 ,:at a gods5d to h educat$ wom5 :o w devote _! lives to alleviat+ ! suff]+s ( s _m p6 ,! hospital 0 full to ov]fl[+2 b1 be+ ! only ,european pati5t1 ,i _h ! room allott$ to !m to myself4 ,! two assi/ant doctors 7 bo? ill !mselves1 & ! :ole burd5 fell on ,dr4 ,h5ry alone & 8 excell5t nurses4 ,no wond] he _h n mu* "t = conv]sation4 ,si/] ,dora _h be5 9 ,morocco be=e %e came to ,egypt1 & 0 able to tell ( h] exp]i5ces :ile nurs+ ! sick 9 ,fez4 ,i 0 also int]e/$ to he> ab\t ?is mission1 & h[ x is support$2 = x is a l>ge build+1 equipp$ = a hundr$ 9-pati5ts1 :i* numb] 0 at t "t us+ x4 ,x is a great "w1 & ?\gh ,assi\t has a good gov]nm5t hospital1 !re is m ?an room en\gh = bo?4 ,subscriptions to ! mission fell (f :5 /ati/ics %[$ t conv]ts f ,mohamm$anism 7 few--a pro( ( ,dr4 ,h5ry's hone/y2 = ! conv]t$ ,egyptian ,moslem h>dly exi/s1 :atev] o!r /ati/ics may attempt to prove4 ,he did a great "w among/ ! ,copts1 ,assi\t be+ m or less _! headqu>t]s1 & a l>ge proportion ( ! pati5ts 9 ! hospital 7 ,copts4 ,"o ,sunday aft]noon a *orus ( m5 s++ 9 ! next w>d surpris$ me4 ,! tune seem$ famili>1 & tunes r5d]$ by unassi/$ ,egyptians are n always easy to foll[4 ,x 0 an ,arabic v]sion ( ,sankey's #8,safe 9 ! ,arms ( ,jesus4' ,l\d pray]s to ,allah foll[$1 ask+ ,him to look d[n 9 compassion on ^! sick p4 ,x 0 v t\*+ to he> ! afflict$ ones call+ out ,ameem6 ,ameem6 :5ev] !re 0 a pause 9 ! deep voice ( ! ,eld]4 ,i 0 in=m$ by ,si/] ,dora t a ,coptic ,plym\? bro!r visit$ t w>d 7:i* 0 set ap>t = ! ,*ri/ian pati5ts7 e ,sunday1 & held a s]vice4 ,a s]mon 9 ,arabic ) no m5tion ( ,mohamm$ 0 new to me1 & famili> texts 9 t sonor\s language s\nd$ v mu* z !y mu/ h s\nd$ to ,hebrew e>s4 ,! ,arabic ( an educat$ ,egyptian has a /rong aff9ity ) ! orig9al language ( ! ,old ,te/am5t4 ,aft] ab\t t5 days ,dr4 ,h5ry told me t my lung 0 cle>$1 #8&1 m9d y1 if y _h n be5 a teetotall]1 y c\ld nev] h pull$ ?r\gh ?is4' ,i _h to disappo9t him by tell+ him t ,i _h nev] tak5 ! pl$ge2 ! disappo9tm5t did n aba% him1 z ,i expect$ x w\ld4 #8,! little y've tak5 has made no diff]5ce1 anyh[1' 0 8 answ]4 ,i seldom feel ! want ( /imulant1 b ,i felt x /rongly !n4 ,i long$ = a glass ( port1 & ,i told him s4 ,he %ook 8 head3 total ab/95ce 0 ! rule ( ! mission4 ,!re 0 some?+1 h[ev]1 9 my next m$ic9e t prov$ t ! ^w #8total' mu/ n always be tak5 too lit]ally4 ,x ta/$ v l a fav\rite prescription fri5ds 9 ,oporto ord] on ! lea/ provocation4 ,i drank ,si/] ,dora's heal? 9 x1 likewise t ( ! ?ree o!r ladies :o bright5$ ! lives ( all :o ent]$ ?is hospital4 ,! only heal? ! ?ree doctors seem$ to neglect 0 _! own4 ,"o _h to leave1 dur+ my /ay1 to try to recruit 9 a cool] climate1 ano!r 0 await+ an op]ation1 & ,dr4 ,h5ry look$ z if ! /ra9 ( ov]work 0 tell+ on him4 ,i left ,assi\t by ! same night tra9 :i* _h br\ght me !re f ,assuan1 & recruit$ suffici5tly dur+ t5 days 9 ,cairo to enable me to take ! homew>d voyage4 ,hav+ arriv$ at ,assi\t & hav+ left x also dur+ ! night1 ,i h se5 no m ( :at is consid]$ ! capital ( ,upp] ,egypt ?an ,i c\ld see f my b$room w9d[ 9 ! hospital4 ,i (t5 feel indignant at ! sne]s ! v ^w mission>y provokes among/ ! self-indulg5t p ,i meet 9 ! hotels 9 ea/]n c\ntries2 = :atev] ! religi\s or moral convictions ( ^! critics may be1 _! self-indulg5ce contra/s unfav\rably ) ! self-d5ial ( ! _m mission>ies ,i h happ5$ to meet4 ,aft] a /ay ( ?ree mon?s 9 ,engl&1 ,i 0 ready to return to ,egypt to complete a s]ies ( wat]-col\r draw+s = a future "o-man %[ 9 ,london4 ,! incid5ts relat$ 9 ?is volume h n always foll[$ a consecutive ord]3 "s took place aft] my return to ,cairo1 :5 also sev]al ( ! illu/rations to ?is book 7 pa9t$4 ,at ,luxor ,i ran across my ,scotti% good ,sam>itan1 :om ,i _h n se5 s9ce he left me to ! c>e ( ! hospital port]4 ,he ask$ me if ,i rememb]$ 8 slapp+ ! face ( ! man :o _h importun$ u :ile we drove f ,assi\t /ation1 & on my reply+ t ,i did1 he told me t on ! foll[+ day he receiv$ a summons to appe> be=e ! ,mamoor = assault & batt]y4 ,?is might h l$ to v s]i\s consequ5ces _h ! ,mamoor report$ him to 8 *ief 9 ,cairo1 = to /rike a native is z mu* z an ,engli%man's place 9 a gov]nm5t (fice is wor?4 ,x w\ld also h be5 an easy way = ! ,mamoor to ga9 popul>ity ) ! ,moslems1 to h got a ,briti% (ficial dismiss$ = su* an (f5ce4 ,=tunately ! ,scotsman _h made ! ,mamoor's acqua9tance on a previ\s visit to ,assi\t1 & bo? m5 lik$ ea* o!r4 ,:5 ! native _h told 8 v]sion ( ! s]vices he _h r5d]$ & ! brutal rew>d he receiv$1 my fri5d expla9$ :at really happ5$1 namely1 t :ile he 0 lift+ an app>5tly dy+ compatriot into ! cab1 ?is man1 :o _h done no m ?an to pick up ! hat :i* _h fall5 (f ! sick man's head1 tri$1 9 8 gre$ = bak%ee%1 to =ce 8 way into ! cab z x 0 driv+ (f4 ,= ?is imp]t95ce he receiv$ 8 slap 9 ! face4 #8,come "h1' said ! ,mamoor1 #8& %[ me exactly :]e y 7 /ruck4' ,! man approa*$ & %[$ 8 left *eek1 :]eupon ! mod]n ,solomon gave him a sm>t slap on ! "r "o1 & told him t nei!r *eek c\ld !n be jeal\s ( its fell[4 ,= once ,i left ,egypt be=e ! exodus ( ! t\ri/s1 z ,i 0 due 9 ,japan be=e ! *]ry-trees _h %$ _! blossom4 ,z ! %ip sl[ly mov$ ?r\gh ! ,suez ,canal1 ! remembrance ( unpleasant h\rs ,i _h sp5t 9 ,egypt vani%$ ) ! smoke f ! funnel1 & only happy recollections sp$ me on my voyage f ! ,ne> to ! ,f> ,ea/4 ,,index ,aahmes1 ,que51 #ahb4 ,ababdi1 #bab4 ---- guide1 #bjh1 #bbi1 #bcg4 ,abbas1 ,pr9ce1 #cd1 #cf1 #dj-a1 #gf-g1 #aci4 ---- murd] (1 #adb-d4 ---- 8 po/-mortem hon\rs1 #adh4 ,abydos1 #ij4 ,arab nomads f ! ,h$jaz1 #bda-b4 ,a%ura1 ! fe/ival (1 #afd-g4 ,assi\t1 #bhj4 ---- hospital at1 #bge-hj4 ,a/rolog]1 ! c\rt1 #adb4 ,azh>1 el-1 #gc1 #ajg4 ,bab en-,nasr1 #ai4 ---- ,zaweyla1 #aje4 ,babylon1 ,roman ca/le (1 #aba-b4 ,baird1 ,g5]al1 #bdb4 ,bak%ee%1 #di1 #ahe4 ,b>b]1 primitive proc$ure ( !1 #aib-c4 ,ba?s4 ,see ,hammm4 ,baza>s1 #d1 #g1 #h1 #ca1 #eh4 ,beiram1 #afc4 ,beit-el-,kadi1 #b4 ,bel[ ! ,cat>acts1 #aa1 #aba1 #agh1 #bbd4 ,birds se5 9 ! des]t1 #baa1 #bai4 ,blue ,mosque4 ,see ,mosque ( ,aksunkur4 ,b\ga9villea1 #aga4 ,b[d5 ,smi?1 ,h]man1 #ej1 #ef4 ,bride1 ,mohamm$an1 #ad4 ,briti% troops 9 ,cairo1 #aca-d4 ,butl]1 ,dr4 ,a4 ,j41 au?or ( ,anci5t ,coptic ,*ur*es ( ,egypt1 #abb4 ,camels1 #acb1 #ahc1 #bjh-i1 #bac-ad4 ---- skeletons (1 #bba-b4 ,c>t]1 ,h[>d1 #aih1 #bjj4 ,*>act]i/ics ( ! mod]n ,egyptians1 #ahe4 ,clo!s1 #h1 #aa1 #af1 #aad-ae1 #abf4 ,cobra1 #aih-i4 ,cock-fight+1 #gi4 ,c(fee1 #hj1 #ih4 ---- %ops1 #ag1 #ah1 #gh4 ,copts1 #ij-ajc1 #abd-e1 #bgi4 ---- _! *ur*es1 #aah-ba4 ---- ,ca?olic1 #abd-e4 ,coral reefs1 #bec-f4 ,crayfi%1 #bec-f4 ,currelly1 ,pr(essor ,c4 ,t41 #aeg1 #agh4 ,deft]d>1 ,ahm$ el-1 #gd4 ,d] el-,bahri1 #agh1 #aid4 ,d]vi%es1 #bf-cj4 ,desaix1 ,g5]al1 #bdb1 #bdi-ej4 ,des]t1 ! ,sah>a1 #ib1 #ie4 ---- antiseptic air (1 #ahf1 #aij-a4 ---- j\rney 9 ! ,arabian1 #bjf-bdd4 ,diwaan1 or divan1 #eb4 ,doctors1 ,mission>y1 #bgc-e1 #bgg-hj4 ---- ,native1 #bjc-d4 ---- ! ,syrian hakim1 #beb-c4 ,dogaan1 el-1 #ada1 #adc4 ,dseh1 !1 #afg-h4 ,dragomans1 #aa1 #eh-i4 ,dr9k1 ! consumption (1 #hj4 ,durkh1 #eb4 ,edfu1 camp+ 9 temple (1 #bei-ff4 ,egyptian ,art1 beauty ( e>ly1 #ahb1 #bcc-d1 #bfb1 #bfe4 ---- ,exploration ,fund1 #aeg1 #agh-i4 ,elfy ,bey1 #ada1 #adg-h4 ,esbekiyeh g>d5s1 #aga4 ,eye-doctor1 #aij4 ,ey?1 ,max1 #cd1 #aci1 #adb4 ,fakirs1 #be-f4 ,fatimid ,khalifs1 #ga-c1 #ajf4 ,fellahe51 #ahb-e4 ,fe/ivals1 #aec-afh1 #agj-a4 ,fikee1 or s*oolma/]1 #aji-aj4 ,flies1 #aie1 #aig4 ,=eign]s1 z reg>d$ by natives1 #ahe-f4 ,fr5* ,ag5cy 9 ,cairo1 !1 #agf4 ---- army 9 ,egypt1 #bda-b1 #bdi-ej4 ,fun]als1 ,mohamm$an1 #ah-bj1 #de4 ,gamalieh1 el-1 #dh4 ,games1 #ha4 ,ga:>1 #ga4 ,gebel-,silsileh1 #bei1 #bfg-i4 ,graffiti1 #bbj1 #bbb-d4 #8,gu>d$ city1' #ga4 ,gurna1 #ahd-e4 ,halim ,pa%a1 #add4 ,hammm1 #ec1 #adc4 ,hamse51 #acf1 #ada1 #afd4 ,h>eem1 #e1 #ad1 #eb1 #hd4 ,hasaneyn1 fe/ival ( !1 #ca4 ---- qu>t]1 #g4 ,ha%ee%1 #bdh4 ,ha%%ah1 #fi1 #gj4 ,hat%epsu1 temple (1 #agi1 #aha-b4 ,h5ry1 ,doctor1 #bgg-hj4 ,h]odotus1 say+ (1 #bjh4 ,h]z ,bey1 #bb1 #age-f4 ,h9t] ,pflug und ,s*raub/ock1 #cd1 #aci4 ,holy ,c>pet1 fe/ival ( !1 #aec-e4 ,holy ,family1 j\rney ( !1 #aai4 ,hoseyn1 #cb-c4 ,hospitals ( ! ,am]ican ,mission1 #ahh1 #bgg-hj4 ---- natives' fe> (1 #ahg1 #bjc4 ,insane fellah1 exp]i5ces ) an1 #bjj-b4 ,insanity reg>d$ z a =m ( sa9tl9ess1 #bf4 ,inscriptions1 #bbj1 #bbb-d1 #bcc-e1 #bci4 ,ismael ,pa%a1 #di1 #hi1 #agf4 ,jac>&a1 ! blossom ( !1 #agb-c4 ,jones1 ,mr4 ,palm]1 #ij1 #ih-i4 #8,kahira-el-,mahrusa1' #gb4 #8,kasr-e%-,%ema1' #aba4 #8,khaleeg1 el1' #dc1 #gj4 ,khan ,khalil1 #d1 #g1 #h1 #ca1 #eh4 ,kisweh1 el4 ,see ,holy ,c>pet4 ,kosseir1 #bde-eg4 ---- mosque at1 #bdi1 #bea-b4 ,lakta1 oasis (1 #bag-bj4 ,lane's ,mod]n ,egyptians1 #af1 #aaa4 ,liwn1 #eb1 #ajf4 ,mahmal1 el-1 #aec-ee4 ,mahmood ,hanafy1 #fg4 ,mamelukes1 #cf1 #dj1 #adb1 #add1 #adh-ej4 ,m&>ah1 #ea4 ,mankaleh1 #ha1 #ajg4 ,mann]s & ,cu/oms ( ! ,anci5t ,egyptians4 ,see ,wilk9son4 ,mansoor1 #eh1 #fe4 ,m>iette1 #bfc4 ,m>riages1 ,mohamm$an1 #ab1 #ac4 ,ma/aba1 #g1 #h1 #cc4 ,mission>ies1 #abe1 #bha4 ,modi/e1 ,fr5*1 #hf4 ,mohamm$ ,ali1 #cd1 #da1 #gd1 #gf1 #he1 #aci4 ,mohamm$ ,br[n1 #aa1 #eg4 ,mo'izz1 #ga-b4 ,mosques ( ,cairo-- ,aksunkur1 #aaf4 ,ayyub es-,salih1 #bd4 ,b>kk1 #b1 #ba4 ,beyb>s1 #dh4 ,hassaneyn1 #ca1 #afe4 ,kalan1 #b1 #ba-d4 ,slih ,tali1 es-1 #aje4 ,tuln1 #aah4 ,re/orations (1 #bc1 #ajg4 ,m\sky1 !1 #a1 #df4 ,mu'llaka1 el-1 #aba4 ,mudir ( ,kosseir1 #bde-eb4 ,muri/n1 el-1 #d4 ,mu%rbiyeh1 #e1 #f1 #dg1 #eb1 #agf4 ,nahasse51 #b1 #ah4 ,nakht1 tomb (1 #ahc4 ,nicol1 ,ersk9e1 #bjj1 #bjg1 #bab4 ,o',donald1 ,capta91 #cd-db1 #acd4 ---- ,miss1 #ce1 #ci1 #db4 ,omdeh ( ,gurna1 #bjb4 ,p>k]1 ,h]b]t ,r41 #beh-i4 ,petrie1 ,pr(essor ,fl9d]s1 #aih4 ,pilgrims1 #ie1 #aed-e4 ,polygamy1 #af1 #ag4 ,ptolemies1 p]iod ( !1 #ahj1 #bcc-d1 #bfa1 #bfe-f4 ,pyramid ,b$\9s1 #abg4 ,pyramids1 #abg4 ,que5 ,?iy1 #agh1 #bbb-c4 ,ramadan1 ! fa/ (1 #aef-g1 #afj-b4 ,rames1 #adb1 #adf1 #adh4 ,r$ ,sea1 #bdc4 ,reliefs1 #bfb1 #bfe1 #bfh4 ,saheime1 ,%eykh ,amm91 #ej4 ,said ,pa%a1 #adj1 #ade2 accession (1 #adg4 ,salih1 es-1 #aea4 ,salt & ,soda ,company1 #ia1 #ic4 ,s>ac5ic ,art1 #gc4 ,s*ools1 #aag4 ,scorpions1 #ahg-ij1 #bfj4 ,%ado(1 #bah4 ,%>ks1 #bdd1 #bea4 ,%auwl1 mon? (1 #afc4 ,%eea ,h]esy1 #gc1 #ajf4 ,%eeas1 #cb-c1 #afd-g4 ,%eg]-ed-,durr1 #aea-b4 ,%iites4 ,see ,%eeas4 ,%o>a1 #gf1 #aea4 ,slad51 ,d\glas1 #aah4 ,smells ( ,cairo1 #df4 ,sph9x1 !1 #abg-cd4 #8,spray ( ,pe>ls4' ,see ,%eg]-ed-,durr4 ,surg]y1 amateur1 #aia4 ,t>b\*1 #h4 ,temples (-- ,d5d]ah1 #bfa4 ,edfu1 #bei-ff4 ,hat%epsu1 #agi1 #aha-b4 ,m$9et ,habu1 #agi4 ,philae1 #bei4 ,!bes1 #agh1 #beh4 #8,tommy ,atk9s1' #aca-d4 ,t\ri/s1 #ei1 #aid-f4 ,tramways1 #gj1 #abg4 ,tri/ram1 ,canon1 #aii1 #bbg4 ,tumbakiyeh1 el-1 #dg4 ,ulema1 an ,azh>1 #ada1 #adg4 ,villa ,victoria ,hotel1 #hc4 ,wadi ,natrun1 #ib4 ,wakfs' adm9i/ration1 #bb1 #dd4 ,weigall1 ,ar?ur1 ,preface1 #bjg1 #bbj1 #bbc1 #bca-b1 #bgd4 ,welee1 #ah1 #ai4 ,:ymp]1 ,*>les1 #bjg1 #baa4 ,wilk9son1 #gi4 ,zikr1 #bf-bh1 #cb1 #afd4 ,zogheb1 ,c\nt1 #agd-f4 ,zohra1 ,/ory ( ! ,pr9cess1 #cd-db1 #gd-g1 #hd1 #he1 #aci1 #aea-c4 ,pr9t$ by ,t4 & ,a4 ,,con/able1 ,pr9t]s to ,8 ,maje/y at ! ,ed9burgh ,univ]sity ,press ,transcrib]'s ,note3 ,attempts h be5 made to reta9 v>iations 9 hyph5ation1 spell+1 capitalisation1 & acc5t$ *>act]s z !y appe> 9 ! orig9al publication4