,illu/ration3 ,h4 ,,le ,,blanc ,,esqr4  
,+rey  ,madeley1 ,li?og4 #caj ,/r&4     
,,! ,,art                               
,,(                           ,,ty+ ,,! 
,,cravat3                               
,,demon/rat$ ,,9 ,,sixte5 ,,lessons1    
,,includ+                               
,,?irty-,,two ,,diff]5t ,,/yles1        
,,=m+                            ,a     
,pocket ,manual2          ,& exemplify+ 
! advantage aris+ f an elegant          
arrangem5t ( ?is important "p ( !       
,co/ume2                                
,,prec$$ ,,by                        ,a 
,,hi/ory ,,( ,,! ,,cravat1              
,,f ,,its ,,orig9 ,,to ,,! ,,pres5t     
,,"t2          ,& rem>ks on its influ5ce
 on ,society 9 g5]al4                   
,,by ,h4 ,,le ,,blanc1 ,,esq4         ,)
 explanatory ,plates1 & a ,portrait ( ! 
,au?or         8,no?+ is m laudable ?an 
an enquiry aft] tru?40                  
,,addison4                              
,,?ird ,,edition4                       
,,london3                    ,,eff+ham  

,,wilson1 #hh1 ,,cornhill1              
,,& ,,+rey  ,,madeley1 #caj1 ,,/r&4     
#ahbh4                ,+rey & ,madeley1 
,pr9t]s1 #caj1 ,/r&4     ,,introduction4
   ,no "o accu/om$ to mix ) ! high]     
classes ( society w be at all incl9$ to 
dispute ! advantages aris+ f a g5teel   
appe>ance2 x !re=e becomes necess>y t ! 
means ( acquir+ ?is di/9ction %\ld be   
cle>ly demon/rat$4 ,an att5tive p]usal (
 ! foll[+ pages w conduce to ?is desir$ 
effect4  8,l'art de mettre sa ,cravate  
e/  l'homme du monde ce que l'art de    
donn]  d9] e/ a l'homme d'tat40  ,!     
,cravat %\ld n be consid]$ z a m]e      
ornam5t1 x is decid$ly "o ( ! greate/   
pres]vatives ( heal?--x is a crit]ion by
 :i* ! rank ( ! we>] may be at once     
di/+ui%$1 & is ( itself 8a lett] (      
introduction40  ,! mo/ fa/idi\s may 9   
?is book f9d a model = imitation1 z n   
only ! =m1 b ! col\r appropriate to ea* 
p>ticul> /yle1 is describ$ 9 ! cle>e/ & 
mo/ compreh5sive mann]4  ,x c be        
incontrov]tibly ass]t$ t ?is "w1 f> f   

be+ an ephem]al production1 w be f\nd to
 conta9 a mass ( useful in=mation1 & may
 be t]m$ an 8,encyclopdia ( k40  ,! "q  
:e!r ,cravats 7 worn by ! anci5ts is    
satisfactorily decid$4  ,x is fully     
prov$ t ! ,romans us$ a *9 clo?1        
correspond+ almo/ entirely ) ! mod]n    
,cravat2 & t ! coll> ( ! anci5t         
,p]sians1 ,egyptians1 & ,greeks 0 !     
orig9 ( ! ,/ock ( ! pres5t day4  ,9 !   
*apt] on black & col\r$ silk ,cravats1 x
 is %ewn t ! =m] nev] obta9$ great]     
celebrity ?an 9 ! la/ t5 ye>s ( !       
eighte5? c5tury1 & ! fir/ t5 ( !        
n9ete5?2 t is to say1 dur+ a t]m ( ye>s 
replete ) ev5ts ( ! greate/ political   
int]e/4  ,! "w is divid$ into easy      
lessons--! fir/ gives a solution ( !    
celebrat$ problem kn[n z ! ,nud ,gordi51
 & is ! key to all ! o!rs4 ,! fifte5?   
lesson alone conta9s eighte5 diff]5t    
me?ods ( ty+ ! ,cravat3 b le/ any ( our 
read]s may be t]rifi$ at ! idea ( hav+ s
 mu* to acquire at once1 x may be       
necess>y to obs]ve t z !y are d]ivations

 f ! f\rte5 fir/ describ$1 !y are       
necess>ily %ort & easy ( atta9m5t4  ,!  
fir/ & la/ lessons 7,nos4 #a & #af7 are 
und\bt$ly ! mo/ important1 on acc\nt ( !
 precepts1 op9ions1 & incontrov]tible   
tru?s :i* !y conta94 ,9 ! conclud+ *apt]
 ! correct con/ruction ( ! ,cravat is   
prov$ to be ( p>am\nt advantage to !    
we>]2 & ! consequ5ces aris+ f an        
ignorance ( ?is important subject are   
po9t$ out 9 a mann] :i* _c fail to      
conv9ce e enlight5$ m9d4  ,to r5d] ! "w 
complete 9 e respect1 plates1 drawn f   
nature1 are ins]t$2 ^! w cle>ly expla9  
any difficulty a beg9n] may exp]i5ce 9  
compreh5d+ our directions1 & w enable   
him to judge :e!r he has produc$ ! prop]
 effect on 8 own ,cravat4  ,9 an age l !
 pres5t1 :5 ! man ( quality is s closely
 imitat$ by ! pret5d]--:5 ! amalgamation
 ( all ranks seems to be ! inevitable   
consequ5ce ( ! 8,m>* ( ,intellect0 n[   
mak+ su* rapid /rides among/ u1 we ?9k a
 m signal s]vice _c be r5d]$ to ! high] 
ranks ( society1 ?an by ! production (  

su* a "w z ?is2 &1 9 ! hope ( be+ really
 useful1 we (f] to a disc]n+ public !   
8,art ( ,ty+ on ! ,cravat40     ,,!     
,,hi/ory ,,( ,,! ,,cravat2#a  ,,f ,,its 
,,orig9 ,,to ,,! ,,pres5t ,,day2  ,,)   
,,rem>ks ,,on ,,its ,,influ5ce ,,on     
,,society ,,9 ,,g5]al4   ,no decid$     
op9ion c be giv5 ( ! age 9 :i* ,cravats 
7 fir/ introduc$4 ,! anci5ts 7 happily  
unacqua9t$ ) ! ridicul\s & dang]\s      
fa%ion ( conf9+ ! ?roat 9 l951 ei!r ti$ 
9 front or fa/5$ beh9d ) a clasp2 ?is "p
 ( ! frame 0 all[$ to rema9 9 entire    
lib]ty2 !y1 h[ev]1 def5d$ x f ! cold by 
means ( a wooll5 or silk5 clo?1 call$ 9 
,rome focalium1 a t]m :i* is evid5tly   
d]iv$ f fauces 7! ?roat74  ,a di/+ui%$  
,jesuit 7! ,rev4 ,fa!r ,adam7 9 8 "w on 
,roman antiquities1 proves by ! mo/     
und\bt$ au?ority t ! ,romans made use ( 
*9 clo?s1 = ! protection ( ! neck &     
?roat2 ^! 7 t]m$ focalia1 & ! public    
orators1 :o f pr(essional consid]ations 
7 fe>ful ( tak+ cold1 contribut$ 9 no   
small degree to r5d] ?is fa%ion g5]al4  

,"s 7says ! ,rev4 ,fa!r7 us$ a h&k]*ief 
7sud>ium7 = ?is purpose4 ,?is is        
probably ! orig9 ( ! ,cravat1 :i* is 9  
_m c\ntries call$ 8,neckh&k]*ief40      
,augu/us1 :o 0 infirm & sickly1         
con/antly us$ ! focalium :5 at 8 own    
h\se1 or ) 8 fri5ds1 b he 0 nev] se5 9 x
 9 public2 & ,lampridius obs]ves t      
,alex&] ,sev]us made use ( x only :5    
return+ f ! ba?s to 8 palace4 ,9 ,rome !
 cu/om ( leav+ ! neck b>e 0 s g5]al1 t x
 0 consid]$ b5ea? ! dignity ( ! man &   
citiz5 to protect x 9 any o!r way ?an by
 ! h&1 or occasionally wrapp+ ! toga    
r\nd x4  ,! ?roats ( our =efa!rs 7 =    
ages z uncov]$ z _! faces2 9 ?is respect
 ! desc5dants ( ! ,s>mat h n deg5]at$1 z
 ! ,poles dur+ ! mo/ sev]e w9t] h _!    
?roats con/antly expos$4 ,! same fa%ion 
7:i* is1 h[ev]1 less surpris+7 has      
desc5d$ to ! ,ea/]n ,nations1 among :om 
a :ite & well turn$ neck is             
metaphorically comp>$ to ! beauty ( a   
t[] ( ivory4 ,! ,calmucks1 ,baskirs1 &  
o!r ,t>t>s ( ! ,don1 or ! bord]s ( !    

,caspian ,sea1 also adh]e to ?is fa%ion2
 v few ( !m1 h[ev]1 m]it ! ,ea/]n       
complim5t1 z _! ?roats are g5]ally ugly 
& ill-=m$4 ,?is cu/om gradually decl9$ 9
 ,france & sev]al p>ts ( ,europe1 &     
luxury1 r ?an necessity1 introduc$ !    
fa%ion ( cov]+ ! ?roat loosely ) a f9e  
/>*$ l95 clo?2 ?is 0 worn above ! %irt1 
)\t a coll>2 ! ends 7 br\ght d[n on !   
brea/1 & !re fa/5$ by laces ( ?read--f  
?is ! idea ( b&s 0 d]iv$--be=e !        
introduction ( ! heavy & unheal?y bonds1
 :i* at a lat] p]iod conf9$ ! ?roat1 0  
ev5 dreamt (4  ,! ruff1 /iff5$ & curl$ 9
 s+le or d\ble r[s 7an inconv5i5t b     
h>mless ornam5t71 became ! fav\rite 9   
its turn1 & cont9u$ 9 fa%ion :ile ! hair
 0 worn %ort2 b ?is also fell into      
disrepute :5 ,l\is ,,xiii4 all[$ 8 to   
gr[4 ,!n rais$ coll>s1 plait$           
neck-clo?s1 & b&s 7bo? pla9 & ( lace71  
envelop$ ! ?roats ( our ance/ors1 f !   
neck to ! *91 & cov]$ ! tops ( ! arms & 
! %\ld]s4 ,?is fa%ion cont9u$ until     
,l\is ,,xiv4 adopt$ ! enorm\s flax5 or  

black p]uke1 :i* almo/ conceal$ ! front 
( ! neck4 ,x !n gave way to bright      
col\r$ rib&s arrang$ 9 b[s1 :i* 7 also  
introduc$ by ?is gay & gallant mon>*1 & 
imitat$ by e "o accord+ to 8 rank or    
caprice4  ,up to t "t1 z frivolity alone
 _h reign$1 ! fa%ion 0 n injuri\s2 b !  
?roat1 :i* _h hi!rto be5 comp>atively   
free1 n[ lo/ t lib]ty :i* x has nev]    
s9ce rega9$4 ,9 #affj a regim5t (       
,croats arriv$ 9 ,france2--a "p ( _!    
s+ul> co/ume excit$ ! greate/           
admiration1 & 0 imm$iately & g5]ally    
imitat$2 ?is 0 a t\r de c\1 made 7= !   
private soldi]s7 ( common lace1 & (     
musl9 or silk = ! (fic]s2 ! ends 7      
arrang$ en rosette1 or ornam5t$ ) a     
button or tuft1 :i* hung gracefully on !
 brea/4 ,?is new arrangem5t1 :i* conf9$ 
! ?roat b v slightly1 0 at fir/ t]m$ a  
,croat1 s9ce corrupt$ to ,cravat4 ,!    
,cravats ( ! (fic]s & p ( rank 7        
extremely f9e1 & ! ends 7 embroid]$ or  
trimm$ ) broad lace2 ^? = ! l[] classes 
7 subsequ5tly made ( clo? or cotton1 or 

at ! be/ ( black taffeta1 plait$2 :i* 0 
ti$ r\nd ! neck by two small /r+s4 ,^!  
/r+s 7 at a lat] p]iod replac$ by       
clasps1 or a buckle1 & ! ,cravat !n took
 ! "n ( ,/ock4  ,! ,cravat at l5g?      
became univ]sal1 & 0 increas$ to an     
almo/ incr$ible size4 ,"s envelop$ !    
neck 9 entire pieces ( musl92 o!rs wore 
a /it*$ /iff5]1 on :i* sev]al h&k]*iefs 
7 fold$4 ,by ?is *afaudage ! neck 0     
plac$ on a level ) ! head1 :i* 9 size x 
surpass$1 & ) :i* x 0 conf\nd$4 ,! %irt 
coll> rose to ! side ( ! e>s1 & ! top ( 
! ,cravat cov]$ ! m\? & l[] "p ( ! nose1
 s t ! face 7) ! exception ( ! nose7 0  
conceal$ by ! ,cravat & a =e/ ( :isk]s2 
^! rose on ea* side to ! hair1 :i* 0    
comb$ d[n ov] ! eyes4 ,9 ?is co/ume !   
lgans bore a great] resemblance to bea/s
 ?an m51 & ! fa%ion gave rise to _m     
laughable c>icatures4 ,!y 7 compell$ to 
look /raight be=e !m1 z ! head c\ld only
 be turn$ by g5]al cons5t ( all !       
memb]s1 & ! t\t ensemble 0 t ( an       
unf9i%$ /atue4  ,in/ances h1 h[ev]1     

occurr$ 9 :i* ^! imm5se ,cravats h sav$ 
! lives ( ! we>]s 9 battle4 ,"o fact1 z 
relat$ by ,dr4 ,pizis1 may be wor?y (   
record4 8,i 0 laugh+0 7says he7 8at     
,g5]al ,lepale1 on acc\nt ( 8 enorm\s   
,cravat4 ,at ! mom5t ( ent]+ into action
 8 regim5t *>g$1 & aft] disp]s+ !       
enemy's cavalry return$ to ! biv\ac4 ,i 
0 in=m$ t ! ,g5]al _h be5 /ruck by a    
pi/ol %ot 9 ! ?roat4 ,i imm$iately ha/5$
 to 8 assi/ance1 & 0 %ewn a bullet1 :i* 
0 /opp$ 9 its c>e] by ! v ,cravat ,i _h 
j be5 ridicul+4--,two (fic]s & sev]al   
privates _h receiv$ sabre cuts on !     
,cravat1 & escap$ )\t injury2 s t ,i 0  
oblig$ to confess t ^! imm5se b&ages 7 n
 always useless40  ,s+]s m ?an any class
 ( p]sons1 %\ld be c>eful to avoid      
expos+ ! ?roat to ! cold1 a mod]ate heat
 contributes to supple ! organs1 & r5d]s
 ! voice cle>] & m h>moni\s2 ?\gh1 on ! 
contr>y1 x is greatly det]iorat$ if !   
?roat is con/ra9$ by a tight5$ ,cravat4 
,no "p ( ! body is m susceptible ( cold 
?an ! neck2 & ?is susceptibility is !   

effect ( too mu* cov]+ 9 g5]al2 b 9     
leav+ a ball room1 or any heat$ place1 !
 greate/ c>e %\ld be tak5 to def5d ! *e/
 & neck f cold4  ,! natives ( ! ,s\? are
 b too well acqua9t$ ) ! dang] ( su*    
sudd5 transitions1 & ! ,spani>ds        
p>ticul>ly1 :o always we> a l>ge        
h&k]*ief hang+ c>elessly f ! neck1      
inv>iably wrap !mselves 9 x1 :5 be+ w>m 
!y are sudd5ly expos$ to ! cold4  ,9    
%ort1 ! ,cravat has n[ arriv$ at !      
summit ( p]fection1 & has be5 mat]ially 
assi/$ 9 its progress by ! use ( />*4 ,!
 "q naturally arises to :om is ! _w     
indebt$ = ?is sublime inv5tion8 ,to !   
,engli%1 ,russians1 ,italians1 or       
,fr5*8--,on ?is po9t we confess         
ourselves unable to decide4 ,!          
blan*isseuses ( ea* ( ^? p[]s h be5     
ma9ly in/rum5tal 9 communicat+ ?is      
important discov]y to ! _w at l>ge4  ,on
 our p>ts1 m pr(\nd inve/igations w\ld  
be unavail+2 & x is only by a cont9u$   
c\rse ( labori\s rese>*1 t x w\ld be    
possible to remove ! obscurity :i* has  

envelop$ ! subject ( our lab\rs = s _m  
ages4  #a 8,cravat1 f ,cravate1 :i*     
,m5age d]ives f ! ,croats1 a sort (     
,g]man troops1 usually call$ ,croats1 f 
:om1 9 #afcf1 ?is ornam5t1 he adds1 0   
adopt$40 ,todd's ,johnson's ,diction>y4 
,,/ocks3  ,consid]ations on ! orig9 (   
,/ocks3--_! advantages1 inconv5i5ces1   
col\rs1 =ms1 & fa%ions4   ,al?\gh !     
,egyptians1 ,p]sians1 ,greeks1 & ne>ly  
all ! anci5t nations1 7 unacqua9t$ ) !  
use ( ,cravats & ,/ocks1 !y wore coll>s1
 :i* may reasonably be consid]$ z !     
avant-c\ri]s ( bo?4  ,coll>s1 made ( !  
ri*e/ metals1 & l9$ ) a s(t clo?1 7     
worn1 l ! mod]n ,/ock1 to ornam5t ! face
 & support ! *94 ,! g5]al use ( coll>s  
among/ ! anci5ts1 & ,/ocks 9 our own    
times1 w\ld almo/ prove t :5 man is left
 to himself1 88 nose is mu* m incl9$ to 
claim acqua9tance ) ! e>?10 7to use !   
expression ( a celebrat$ ,fr5* au?or71  
8?an 8 eyes ) ! ,heav5s10 z ,buffon     
ass]ts4  ,h[ev] t may be1 coll>s h be5  
entirely sup]s$$ by ! introduction (    

,/ocks3 ^! are 9 fact coll>s1 ?\gh      
compos$ ( diff]5t mat]ials--!y =m no    
wr9kle--make b "o turn r\nd ! neck1 &   
are fa/5$ beh9d by a buckle or clasps4  
,/ocks 7 fir/ introduc$ z milit>y co/ume
 ab\t ! comm5cem5t ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 
,*oiseul1 m9i/] ( w> "u ,l\is ,,xv4     
pres5t$ !m to ! troops 9 lieu ( !       
,cravat4  ,^! ,/ocks 7 made ( black     
horse-hair1 tol]ably h>d1 mod]ately     
wide1 & 7 only injuri\s :5 fa/5$ too    
tightly4 ,9 _m regim5ts1 ! (fic]s wi%+ !
 m5 to appe> heal?y1 oblig$ !m to tight5
 ! ,/ock s z almo/ to produce           
suffocation1 in/ead ( all[+ !m m n\ri%+ 
food1 or ( treat+ !m ) m k9dness2 or1 9 
%ort1 ( giv+ !m an opportunity ( acquir+
 t heal?1 ! appe>ance only ( :i* 0      
produc$ by ! tight5$ /ock4  ,! ,/ock has
 ev] s9ce =m$ a "p ( milit>y co/ume4    
,inv5tion has be5 rack$ to div]sify x z 
mu* z possible2 &1 z appe>ance alone 0  
consult$1 ea* *ange has r5d]$ x m       
injuri\s2 x has be5 trans=m$ into a     
coll> z h>d z iron1 by ! ins]tion ( a   

slip ( wood1 :i* act+ on ! l>ynx1 &     
compress+ e "p ( ! neck1 caus$ ! eyes   
almo/ to />t f _! sph]es1 & gave ! we>] 
a sup]natural appe>ance (t5 produc+     
v]tigos & fa9t+s1 or at lea/ ble$+ at ! 
nose4 ,x r>ely happ5$ t a field-day     
pass$ ov] )\t surgical aid be+ requir$  
by "o or m soldi]s1 ^: illness 0 only   
produc$ by an ov]-tight5$ ,/ock4 ,z !   
same k9d ( ,/ock 0 us$ = necks ( all    
sizes1 :e!r long or %ort1 ?9 or ?ick1 x 
r5d]$ ! weav]1 9 _m cases1 almo/        
immoveable2 he 0 sc>cely able to obey ! 
ord]1 8"r face--left face10 & 0 entirely
 prohibit$ f /oop+4  ,/ocks h lately be5
 mu* improv$1 & ^! objections no long]  
exi/4 ,! be/ ,/ocks = g5]al use are made
 ( :alebone1 ?9n$ at ! edges1 ) a bord] 
( :ite lea!r1 :i* entirely prev5ts t    
unpleasant scrat*+ ( ! *9 s (t5 produc$ 
by ! :alebone p5etrat+ ! upp] "p4       
,,! ,,black ,,& ,,col\r$ ,,silk         
,,cravat4   ,! _w 9 g5]al is well in=m$ 
( ! s\rce f :i* silk is d]iv$2 t x      
proce$s f an indu/ri\s insect ( ! ord]  

lepidopt]a1 kn[n z ! silk worm2 :i*1 9  
=m+ a light s(t ?read ( almo/ inf9ite   
l5g?1 produces a bag1 9 :i* x und]goes !
 trans=mation f ! *rysalis to !         
butt]fly4 ,z silk occupies s important a
 /ation 9 ! toilet1 x c h>dly be less   
important t we %\ld "h (f] a few rem>ks 
^u x4  ,among ! ,romans ! use ( silk 0  
g5]al3 sc>cely any o!r mat]ial 0 worn on
 ! neck4 ,augu/us always us$ a silk     
h&k]*ief1 & 8 example 0 imitat$ by all !
 petits-maitres ( ,rome1 among :om !    
appe>ance ( delicate heal? 0 consid]$ a 
di/+ui%+ m>k ( ton4 ,x 0 also a con/ant 
att5dant at ! ladies' toilet 7mundus    
muliebris71 & !y call$ ! h&k]*ief       
bissyna sud>ia4 ,x is probable t !      
,roman sidon resembl$ ! l>ge %awls n[   
worn by ! ,engli% ladies4  ,x appe>s t  
!re 0 a company ( silk-wom5 9 ,engl& z  
e>ly z #adee2 b ^! 7 probably employ$ 9 
ne$le-"w1 z ,italy suppli$ ! broad      
mat]ial4 ,h5ry ,,ii1 is said to h be5 ! 
fir/ :o wore silk knit /ock+s2 ?\gh !   
inv5tion came f ,spa91 :5ce silk /ock+s 

7 aft]w>ds br\ght to ,h5ry ,,viii4 &    
,edw>d ,,vi4  ,! advantages ( ?is       
manufacture caus$ its introduction to be
 /rongly recomm5d$ by ,james ,i4 & 9    
#afjh mulb]ry-trees 7 plant$ = ! purpose
 ( cultivat+ ! worm--?is1 h[ev]1 fail$4 
,t[>ds ! latt] end ( ?is k+'s reign     
7ab\t #afbj7 ! manufacture ( broad silk 
0 introduc$2 & 9 #afbi 0 s mu* increas$ 
t ! silk ?r[/]s 7 incorporat$ z a public
 body4 ,9 #affa above #dj1jjj p]sons 7  
employ$4  ,! ,revocation ( ! edict (    
,nantes 9 #afhe1 greatly promot$ !      
,engli% manufactures1 z did also !      
inv5tion ( ! ?r[+ ma*9e at ,d]by 9      
#agai4 ,great improvem5ts h s9ce tak5   
place1 & our manufactur]s n[ yield !    
palm to none4  ,! black silk ,cravat is 
n[ g5]ally worn1 & col\r$ silk h&k]*iefs
 h be5 p>tially patroniz$4 ,napoleon    
g5]ally wore a black silk ,cravat1 z 0  
rem>k$ at ,wagram1 ,lodi1 ,m>5go1       
,au/]litz1 c4 ,b at ,wat]loo x 0 obs]v$ 
t1 contr>y to 8 usual cu/om1 he wore a  
:ite h&k]*ief1 ) a fl[+ b[1 al?\gh ! day

 previ\s he appe>$ 9 8 black ,cravat4   
,col\r$ h&k]*iefs %\ld be z pla9 z      
possible2 we mu/1 h[ev]1 give x z our   
op9ion1 t !y c only be worn en d%abille 
at home1 or :5 go+ to ba!1 ride1 c4 e>ly
 9 ! morn+4     ,,! ,,art ,,(  ,putt+ on
 ! ,cravat4     ,illu/ration3 ,plate ,a4
      ,fig4 #a4      ,fig4 #b4          
,fig4 #c4 ,russian ,/ocks4      ,fig4   
#d4 ,:alebone ,/iffn]4      ,fig4 #e4   
,fig4 #f4 ,%irt ,coll>4  ,+rey  ,madeley
 ,li?og4 #caj ,/r&4     ,,lesson ,i4    
,prelim9>y & indisp5sible ,in/ructions4 
,:5 ! ,cravats are br\ght f ! laundress 
!y %\ld und]go a c>eful exam9ation1     
previ\s to class+ !m1 to asc]ta9 :e!r !y
 are prop]ly wa%$1 iron$1 & fold$2 & = !
 purpose ( decid+ on ! exact /yle 9 :i* 
ea* may be worn ) ! be/ effect4 ,! set (
 ! ,cravat & ! neatness ( ! tie entirely
 dep5ds on its be+ correctly got up4    
99       99       99       99       99  
,if ^! requisites are n c>efully att5d$ 
to1 ! ,cravat imm$iately fades & becomes
 yell[1 :il/ on ! contr>y1 if prop]ly   

prep>$1 x pres5ts an elegant & re*]*    
appe>ance4         99       99       99 
99       99  ,/>* gives a comb9ation (  
sub/ance1 ela/icity1 & suppl5ess to !   
h&k]*ief1 & by fill+ up ! smalle/ holes 
effectually excludes ! cold air 9 w9t]4 
,9 summ] x also possesses ! incalculable
 advantage ( prev5t+ ! ,cravat f adh]+  
too closely to ! neck1 & !reby produc+  
an uncom=table heat4         99       99
       99       99       99  ,:atev]    
/yle may h be5 adopt$ 9 putt+ on !      
,cravat1 :5 ! knot is once =m$ 7:e!r    
good or bad7 x %\ld n be *ang$ "u any   
pret5ce :atev]4         99       99     
99       99       99  ,9 ! duties ( !   
toilet1 we may comp>e ! tie ( ! ,cravat 
to ! liaisons de sauces blan*es ( !     
kit*52 ! lea/ error is fatal to ! :ole  
composition ( ei!r1 & z a new sauce mu/ 
be prep>$1 ) entirely fre% +r$i5ts1 s   
mu/ a new tie be produc$ by a fre%      
,cravat4         99       99       99   
99       99  ,:5 ! ,cravat is           
satisfactorily arrang$1 ! f+] mu/ be    

pass$ lightly along ! top1 to smoo? & ?9
 x1 & cause x to co9cide ) ! %irt coll>4
         99       99       99       99  
99  ,a small iron1 ) a h&le1 made       
expressly = ! purpose1 & mod]ately w>m1 
is ! be/ in/rum5t = produc+ a ?9 & equal
 edge to ! ,cravat2 x w also s]ve to    
smoo? ! tie2 b great c>e mu/ be tak5 t x
 is clean & glossy1 z )\t ?is precaution
 spots w be inevitable4      ,see plate 
,a1 fig4 #e4         99       99        
99       99       99  ,:5 a ,cravat has 
n be5 previ\sly fold$ by ! laundress1 & 
y h prep>$ x y\rself1 ( ! exact height  
requir$ by ! /yle y int5d to adopt1     
p>ticul> att5tion %\ld be paid to !     
fold+ ! ends1 "o ( :i* mu/ be fold$ d[n 
& ! o!r up1 z x may be1 ! "r or left    
end4      ,plate ,a1 fig #b4         99 
99       99       99       99  ,! great 
advantages ( ?is me?od w be imm$iately  
p]ceptible1 9 ! prev5tion ( t           
disagreeable prom95ce :i* is g5]ally    
produc$ at ! back ( ! neck by ! junction
 ( ! ends2 :i* be+ br\ght to ! front )\t

 be+ soil$1 or tumbl$ 9 ! slighte/      
degree1 are m easily =m$ into an elegant
 tie4         99       99       99      
99       99  ,! same c>e & att5tion are 
necess>y to ! back z to ! front ( !     
,cravat4         99       99       99   
99       99  ,al?\gh col\r$ ,cravats are
 made ( m co/ly mat]ials ?an ^? :i* are 
entirely pla91 x is mo/ cle>ly laid d[n1
 z a rule 9 ! laws ( ta/e1 t !y c be    
admitt$ only z undress co/ume4  ,! :ite 
,cravat1 ) spots or squ>es1 is receiv$ z
 half-dress2 b ! pla9 :ite alone is     
all[$ at balls or soires4  ,! black     
,/ock1 or ,cravat1 is only suit$ to     
milit>y m51 n on s]vice1 :o are dress$ 9
 pla9 clo!s4 ,z to col\r$ ,cravats1 !y  
are entirely prohibit$ 9 ev5+ p>ties4   
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,b4      ,fig #f4  
,fold+ ( ! ,cravat4      ,fig4 #g4 #a/  
"t4      ,fig4 #h4 #bnd "t4      ,fig4  
#i4 #crd "t4      ,fig4 #aj4 #d? "t4    
,fig #aa4 #e? "t4  ,+rey  ,madeley      
,li?og4 #caj ,/r&4     ,,lesson ,,ii4   
,nud ,gordi54  ,plate ,b1 fig4 #f1 #g1  

#h1 #i1 #aj1 & #aa4   ,x w\ld be v      
difficult to (f] to our read]s an exact 
& p]fectly intelligible explanation (   
?is mo/ elegant /yle--( ! sov]eign (    
,cravat ties1 ! ,nud ,gordi51 ! orig9 ( 
:i* is lo/ 9 ! obscurity ( antiquity4   
,not)/&+ ! labori\s rese>*es we h be/[$ 
on ?is int]e/+ subject1 we h hi!rto be5 
unable to discov] ! "n ( ! g5ius to :om 
! honor ( ?is inv5tion is due4 ,we only 
"k 7& x is1 we believe1 g5]ally kn[n7 t 
,alex&] ! great1 irritat$ at be+ unable 
to compreh5d ! !ory ( its composition1 &
 det]m9$ n to be foil$1 adopt$ ! %ort] &
 easi] me?od ( solv+ ! "q--t ( cutt+ x )
 8 sword4  ,9 our own times we          
occasionally meet ) "y aspirants1 :o1 9 
! fulle/ acceptation ( ! t]m1 adopt !   
,gordian tie2 ) ?is diff]5ce1 h[ev]1 t  
:5 !y wi% to untie x1 z a sword l t ( ! 
,mac$onian mon>* is too cumb]some = _!  
delicate h&s1 !y make use ( a pair (    
scissors1 ) :i* !y are m famili>--b to  
our subject4  ,we confess1 ) regret1 t  
we c only speak imp]fectly ( ?is int]e/+

 tie2 b z !ory is no?+ :5 comp>$ to     
practice1 we w endeav\r to address      
ourselves to ! eyes1 r ?an to ! judgm5t 
( our read]s1 9 ! conviction t1 ?\gh we 
may be unable to accompli% our object   
entirely1 we %all1 at lea/1 approa* x z 
ne>ly z possible4 ,att5tion6            
,,problem4  ,9 ! fir/ place1 ! ,cravat =
 ?is tie mu/ be ( ample size1 & prop]ly 
/>*$1 iron$1 & fold$ 7z %ewn plate ,b4  
fig4 #f72 :e!r x be pla9 or col\r$ is ( 
little consequ5ce2 b a r /\t "o %\ld be 
pref]r$1 z x w (f] m facilities to ! d>+
 f+]s ( ! beg9n] :o attempts to         
accompli% ?is *ef-d'uvre4  ,x w !n be   
necess>y to m$itate deeply & s]i\sly on 
! five foll[+ directions4  ,i4 ,:5 y h  
decid$ on ! ,cravat1 x mu/ be plac$ on !
 neck1 & ! ends left hang+ 7z %ewn plate
 ,b1 fig4 #g1 fir/ "t74  ,,ii4 ,y mu/   
take ! po9t ,k1 pass x on ! inside ( !  
po9t ,z1 & raise x 7same plate1 fig4 #h1
 second "t74  ,,iii4 ,y l[] ! po9t ,k on
 ! tie1 n[ half =m$ ,o 7same plate1 fig4
 #i1 ?ird "t74  ,,iv4 ,!n1 )\t leav+ !  

po9t ,k1 y b5d x inside & draw x betwe5 
! po9t ,z1 :i* y repass to ! left1 ,y2 9
 ! tie n[ =m$1 ,y1 ,o1 y ?us accompli% !
 =mation ( ! de/9$ knot4  ,v4 & la/4    
,aft] hav+ tight5$ ! knot1 & flatt5$ x )
 ! ?umb & =e-f+]1 or m prop]ly ) ! iron1
 m5tion$ 9 ! prec$+ lesson 7see plate   
,a1 fig4 #e72 y l[] ! po9ts1 ,k1 ,z1    
cross !m1 & place a p9 at ! po9t (      
junction ,h1 & at once solve ! problem (
 ! ,nud ,gordi54  ,he :o is p]fectly    
conv]sant ) ! !ory & practice ( ?is tie1
 may truly boa/ t he possesses ! key to 
all ! o!rs1 :i* are1 9 fact1 d]iv$ f ?is
 alone4 ,a ,cravat :i* has be5 once worn
 9 ?is way1 c only be us$ aft]w>ds en   
neglig1 z x w be s mu* tumbl$ by ?is    
intricate arrangem5t4  ,! slighte/ error
 9 ! fir/ fold ( ?is tie w r5d] all     
succe$+ ef=ts1 ) ! same h&k]*ief1       
entirely useless--we h said x4  ,we     
w\ld1 !re=e1 s]i\sly advise any "o :o   
really desires to be initiat$ 9 !       
my/]ies ( ?is delightful sci5ce1 to make
 8 fir/ essay on a mod]ate siz$ block4  

,we c confid5tly assure him1 t ) mod]ate
 p]sev]ance1 he w soon be enabl$ to     
pursue 8 /udies ) pleasure &            
advantage--on himself4  7,a c>eful      
exam9ation ( ! figures ref]r$ to 9 ?is  
lesson is /rongly recomm5d$74           
,illu/ration3 ,plate ,c4      ,fig4 #ab4
 ,l',ori5tale4      ,fig4 #ac4          
,l',amrica9e4      ,fig4 #ad4 ,colli] de
 ,*eval4      ,fig4 #ae4 ,s5tim5tale4   
,fig4 #af4 ,a la ,byron4      ,fig4 #ag4
 ,en ,cascade4      ,fig4 #ah4 ,a la    
,b]gami4      ,fig4 #ai4 ,de ,bal4      
,fig4 #bj4 ,ma?matique4      ,fig4 #ba4 
,irl&aise4      ,fig4 #bb4 ,m>atte4     
,fig4 #bc4 ,ga/ronome4     ,,lesson     
,,iii4  ,cravate  l',ori5tale4  ,plate  
,c1 fig4 #ab4   ,! %ape ( ! ,cravate    
l',ori5tale1 is t ( a turban1 & ! ends  
=m a cresc5t2 9 ?is in/ance we we> t "u 
! *91 :i* ! ,mahometans we> above !     
=ehead4  ,"o ( our antiqu>ian fri5ds1 :o
 has devot$ 8 "t to long & labori\s     
rese>*es on ! orig9 ( ,cravats1 ass]ts1 
t ! real ,cravate  l',ori5tale consi/s (

 a v small silk5 cord2 & t 9 ! highe/   
circles ( ,turkey1 x is sometimes !     
cu/om to draw x tight] ?an ! human frame
 c well be>2 he v prop]ly adds t ?is    
fa%ion produces ! mo/ s]i\s results to !
 heal? ( any "o :o is sudd5ly compell$  
to adopt x4  ,! ,cravat1 = ?is /yle1 mu/
 be small1 t x may pres5t two small ends
 only2 ^! mu/ be /rongly />*$ at ! tips1
 t !y may reta9 ! =m ( ! cresc5t1 z n ! 
slighte/ wr9kle c be suff]$4 ,a :alebone
 /iff5] mu/1 !re=e1 be us$1 z ! lea/    
deviation f ?is rule w entirely deprive 
x ( its d5om9ation ,ori5tale4  ,!       
,cravate  l',ori5tale mu/ be ( ! pure/  
:ite musl91 or :ite ca*emire4      ,see 
plate ref]r$ to4     ,,lesson ,,iv4     
,cravate  l',amrica9e4  ,see plate ,c1  
fig4 #ac4   ,! ,cravate  l',amrica9e is 
extremely pretty & easily =m$1 provid$ !
 h&k]*ief is well />*$4  ,:5 x is       
correctly =m$1 x pres5ts ! appe>ance ( a
 column1 de/9$ to support a ,cor9?ian   
capital4 ,?is /yle has _m admir]s "h1 & 
also among our fri5ds1 ! fa%ionables ( !

 ,new ,_w1 :o pride !mselves on its "n1 
:i* !y call 8,indep5d5ce20 ?is title    
may1 to a c]ta9 po9t1 be disput$1 z !   
neck is fix$ 9 a k9d ( vice1 :i*        
entirely prohibits any v free movem5ts4 
,! ,cravate  l',amrica9e requires a     
:alebone /iff5]1 & is comm5c$ 9 ! same  
way z ! ,nud ,gordi52 ! ends are br\ght 
9 front1 z %[n 9 fig4 #h1 plate ,c1 are 
l[]$ z 9 fig4 #i 7same plate71 & fa/5$  
to ! %irt bosom1 l ! ,cravate en        
,cascade4  ,! prevail+ col\r is sea     
gre51 or /rip$ blue1 r$ & :ite4         
,see plate ref]r$ to4     ,,lesson ,v4  
,cravate ,colli] de ,*eval4  ,plate ,c1 
fig4 #ad4   ,?is /yle greatly resembles 
! ,ori5tale1 f :i* x is evid5tly d]iv$4 
,x has be5 greatly admir$ by ! fair sex1
 :o h prais$ x to _! husb&s1 _! lov]s1 &
 ev5 to _! fri5ds & relations2 & h ?us  
promot$ its adoption by e means 9 _!    
p[]4  ,! ends are fa/5$ at ! back ( !   
neck1 or are conceal$ 9 ! folds2 a      
:alebone /iff5] is requisite1 b />* is  
unnecess>y4  ,cravats ) horizontal      

/ripes1 or l>ge spots1 are pref]r$4 ,!  
mo/ becom+ col\r is t call$ ,russia     
lea!r4 ,black is sometimes worn1 b !    
%irt bosom mu/ !n be plait$4  ,human    
life is (t5 comp>$ to a pa9ful j\rney2 &
 x is probably on ! same philosophical  
pr9ciple t ! ,cravate ,colli] de ,*eval 
0 consid]$ a prop] co/ume = man1 :o (t5 
drags on 8 we>y way1 load$ ) evils m    
insupportable ?an ! heavie/ bur!ns4     
,?is /yle is1 h[ev]1 79 our op9ion7 r   
vulg>1 & we h introduc$ x "h1 m t x may 
be avoid$ z an in/ance ( false ta/e1 ?an
 z a model to copy4  ,x is fold$ z %ewn 
9 plate ,a1 fig4 #a4      ,see plate    
ref]r$ to4     ,,lesson ,,vi4  ,cravate 
,s5tim5tale4  ,plate ,c1 fig4 #ae4   ,! 
"n alone ( ?is ,cravat is suffici5t to  
expla9 t x is n alike suitable to all   
faces4  ,y1 !n1 :om nature has n gift$ )
 sk9s ( silk--eyes ( fire--) complexions
 rivall+ ! rose & lily2--y1 to :om %e   
has d5i$ pe>ly tee? & coral lips 7a gift
 :i* 9 our op9ion w\ld be r             
inconv5i5t7--y1 9 fact1 ^: faces d n    

possess t sympa!tic *>m1 :i* 9 a mom5t1 
at a glance1 spreads confusion o'er !   
s5ses1 & disord] & tr\ble 9 ! he>ts (   
all :o behold y--be c>eful h[ y expose  
to public gaze a head l t ( a p]uqui]4  
,we repeat--avoid x2 & be assur$ t if   
y\r physiognomy does n inspire s5sations
 ( love & passion1 & y %\ld adopt !     
,cravate ,s5tim5tale1 y w be a fair butt
 = ! %afts ( ridicule1 :i* 7) no unsp>+ 
h&7 w be %[]$ ^u y on all sides4  ,x is1
 !re=e1 = ! juv5ile only t x is at all  
adapt$1 & !re %\ld ev5 be some?+ boyi% 9
 ! g5]al appe>ance ( ! we>]4 ,x may1 !n1
 be worn f ! age ( sev5te5 to           
tw5ty-sev52 b aft] t age x _c1 )        
propriety1 be patroniz$ by ev5 ! mo/    
agreeable4  ,x mu/ be all[$ t ?is /yle  
is completely oppos$ to ! ,ori5tale &   
,colli] de ,*eval4 ,x mu/ be /rongly    
/>*$1 & fa/5$ ) a s+le rosette at ! top1
 z ne> z possible to ! *94  ,x is m     
fa%ionable 9 ! c\ntry ?an 9 t[n4        
,cambric is g5]ally pref]r$4      ,see  
plate ref]r$ to4     ,,lesson ,,vii4    

,cravate  la ,byron4  ,plate ,c1 fig4   
#af4   ,z ,"l ,byron diff]$ s widely f !
 _w 9 g5]al1 we c h>dly expect to f9d 9 
! ,cravat worn by ?is pr9ce ( poets1 any
 ( t lgance re*]*e :i* g5]ally *>act]ize
 an ,engli%man ( rank4 ,x is univ]sally 
all[$ t ! lea/ con/ra9t ( ! body has a  
correspond+ effect on ! m9d1 & x mu/1   
!re=e1 be admitt$1 t to a c]ta9 ext5t1 a
 tight ,cravat w cramp ! imag9ation1 &1 
z x 71 suffocate ! ?\ghts4  ,t ,"l      
,byron fe>$ ?is effect1 is prov$ f 8    
submitt+ to ! inconv5i5ces ( a ,cravat1 
only :5 accommodat+ himself to !        
bi5sances ( society2 & 9 e portrait :]e 
he is pa9t$ 9 ! ard\r ( composition1 8  
neck is always free f ! trammels ( !    
neckclo?4  ,! ,cravat :i* be>s ! "n (   
?is noble au?or1 diff]s widely f mo/    
o!rs--?is diff]5ce consi/s 9 ! mann] 9  
:i* x is fir/ plac$ on ! neck4 ,x is    
comm5c$ at ! back ( ! neck--! ends are  
!n br\ght 9 front "u ! *91 & fa/5$ 9 a  
l>ge b[1 or rosette1 at lea/ six in*es 9
 l5g? & f\r 9 circumf]5ce4  ,?is fa%ion 

is extremely com=table 9 summ]1 & dur+  
long j\rneys1 z x =ms b "o turn r\nd !  
neck1 :i* is ?us left comp>atively free4
  ,ei!r black or :ite may be worn1 b x  
%\ld n be />*$1 & is fold$ z %ewn 9     
plate ,a1 fig4 #a4      ,see plate      
ref]r$ to4     ,,lesson ,,viii4         
,cravate en ,cascade4  ,see plate ,c1   
fig4 #ag4   ,! ,cravate en ,cascade is  
=m$ by mak+ a s+le knot1 l t 9 ! second 
lesson1 plate ,b1 fig4 #h1 & leav+ "o   
end long] ?an ! o!r2 ! long]1 aft] be+  
br\ght on ! inside 7z 9 ! plate & figure
 ref]r$ to7 mu/ be l[]$ s z to cov] !   
:ole ( ! knot--c>efully spread out z    
wide z possible1 & !n fa/5$ to ! bosom (
 ! %irt4 ,! t\t ensemble w !n pres5t !  
appe>ance ( ! ,cascade1 or ,jet d',eau 9
 ! bason ( ! ,palais ,royal4  ,?is /yle 
is g5]ally foll[$ by valets1 butl]s &   
o!r fa%ionables ( ! same grade4  ,!     
h&k]*ief %\ld n be />*$4      ,see plate
 ref]r$ to4     ,,lesson ,,ix4  ,cravate
  la ,b]gami4  ,plate ,c1 fig4 #ah4   ,l
 ! ,cravate  la ,byron1 :i* x greatly   

resembles1 ! ,b]gami is fir/ plac$ at ! 
back ( ! neck--! ends are br\ght =w>d & 
cross$ on ! brea/1 )\t be+ ti$1 & !n    
fa/5$ to ! braces2 "s pass !m "u ! arms1
 & tie !m on ! back2 b ! h&k]*ief mu/ !n
 be v l>ge1 & fold$ z %ewn 9 plate ,b1  
fig #f4      ,see plate ref]r$ to4      
,,lesson ,x4  ,cravate de ,bal4  ,plate 
,c1 fig4 #ai4   ,! ,cravate de ,bal %\ld
 n be ti$1 b fa/5$ ) p9s to ! braces1 or
 to ! %irt1 9 ! same way z ! ,b]gami4   
,"s pass ! ends "u ! arms1 & tie !m on !
 back2 b z ?is me?od is inconv5i5t1 f ! 
h&k]*ief mov+ ) ! body 9 danc+1 we w\ld 
recomm5d ! two fir/4  ,x %\ld be simply 
& pla9ly fold$1 7z %ewn 9 plate ,b1 fig4
 #f71 & mu/ be tol]ably l>ge4  ,!       
,cravate de ,bal1 :5 c>efully put on is 
delightfully elegant2 x p>takes ( !     
elegant svrit ( ! ,ma?matique1 comb9$ ) 
! laissez-all] ( ! ,b]gami1 :il/ x      
unites ! advantages ( bo?2 x is 9 fact1 
a d]ivation f !m4  ,we mu/ "h ent] an   
entire prohibition aga9/ col\rs ( e k9d 
= ! ,cravate de ,bal--:ite mu/ reign    

alone4  ,! ,cravat %\ld be b slightly   
/>*$4      ,see plate ref]r$ to4        
,,lesson ,,xi4  ,cravate ,ma?matique4   
,plate ,c1 fig4 #bj4   ,regul>ity &     
proportion are ! ess5tials ( e art4  ,9 
a beautiful l&scape we are occasionally 
delight$ ) ! knott$ & b5t trunk ( !     
maje/ic oak2 b ! correct & beautiful    
proportion ( a ,grecian column 7ev5 9   
ru9s7 rivets our att5tion & excites our 
wond] & admiration4  ,! ,cravate        
,ma?matique is a comb9ation ( symmetry &
 regul>ity--! /yle is grave & sev]e1 & !
 slighte/ wr9kle is /rictly prohibit$4  
,! ends %\ld be geometrically correct1 &
 mu/ be> exam9ation ev5 by ! aid ( a    
compass2 !y %\ld desc5d obliquely f ea* 
side1 & =m two acute angles 9           
cross+--all ! folds 9 a horizontal      
direction1 =m+ ! two acute & opposite   
angles ( a triangle1 :i* ! ,ma?matique  
mu/ always /rictly repres5t4  ,black is 
g5]ally worn1 & is made ei!r ( taffeta  
or ,levant9e4  ,a :alebone /iff5] is    
requisite4      ,see plate ref]r$ to4   

,,lesson ,,xii4  ,cravate  l',irl&aise4 
,plate ,c1 fig4 #ba4   ,?is ,cravat v   
closely resembles ! ,ma?matique1 &      
diff]s only 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! ends1 :i*
 9 ! ,irl&aise are jo9$ 9 front & tw9e  
r\nd ea* o!r--ea* end is !n br\ght back 
to ! side x comes f1 & is fa/5$ at !    
back ( ! neck4  ,?is diff]5ce1 :i* w\ld 
be invisible to a sup]ficial obs]v]1 w n
 escape ! critical eye ( an lgant1      
accu/om$ to p]use ?is important "w ) !  
c>e & att5tion x m]its4  ,! ,irl&aise is
 n conf9$ to any p>ticul> col\r1 & !    
h&k]*ief ne$ n be />*$1 b a :alebone    
/iff5] is necess>y4      ,see plate     
ref]r$ to4     ,,lesson ,,xiii4         
,cravate  la ,m>atte4  ,plate ,c1 fig4  
#bb4   ,! ,cravat = ?is /yle %\ld be ( !
 f9e/ & :ite/ ,india musl94 ,l ! ,byron1
 x is comm5c$ at ! back ( ! neck1 & l9k$
 l a *a92 ! ends may ei!r be fa/5$ l ^? 
( ! ,cravat de ,bal 7to ! braces1 or on 
! back71 or to ! %irt bosom4  ,! ,m>atte
 does n require />*1 & %\ld be simply & 
pla9ly fold$4      ,see plate ref]r$ to4

     ,,lesson ,,xiv4  ,cravate  la      
,ga/ronome4  ,plate ,c1 fig4 #bc4   ,!  
vritable ,cravate  la ,ga/ronome is a   
h&k]*ief ( any k9d1 )\t />*1 fold$ on a 
/iff5] ( at mo/ ?ree f+]s 9 dep?1 & ?r[n
 r ?an fa/5$ r\nd ! neck3 x is m        
p>ticul>ly di/+ui%$ by ! tie :i* conf9es
 ! ends2 ?is greatly resembles ! ,nud   
,gordi5 9 ela/icity1 ) ?is diff]5ce1    
h[ev]1 t x slack5s & yields to !        
slighte/ movem5t ( ! neck--to ! lea/    
vacillation ( ! jaws1 & ev5 to t slight 
swell+ ( ! ?roat :i* 9 m5 decid$ly      
di/+ui%$ = ga/ronomic tal5ts1 s (t5     
produces imp$$ respiration4 ,x also     
possesses ! great advantage ( loos5+    
itself 9 cases ( indige/ion1 apoplexy1  
or fa9t+4  ,! ,ga/ronome is seldom worn 
previ\s to ! age ( =ty1 b ?is greatly   
dep5ds on climate & con/itution4        
,see plate ref]r$ to4     ,illu/ration3 
,plate ,d4      ,fig4 #bd4 ,de ,*asse4  
,fig4 #be4 ,en ,valise4      ,fig4 #bf4 
,coquille4      ,fig4 #bg4 ,a la ,col94 
,fig4 #bh4 ,a la ,p>resseuse4      ,fig4

 #bi4 ,a la ,talma4      ,fig4 #cj4 ,a  
l',itali5ne4      ,fig4 #ca4 ,a la      
,russe4      ,fig4 #cb4 ,jesuitique4    
,+rey  ,madeley ,li?og4 #caj ,/r&4      
,,lesson ,,xv4  ,eighte5 diff]5t me?ods 
( putt+ on ! ,cravat4       ,plate ,d1  
figures #bd1 #be1 #bf1 #bg1 #bh1 #bi1   
#cj1 #ca1 & #cb4  ,al?\gh ?is lesson    
compreh5ds eighte5 diff]5t me?ods ( we>+
 ! ,cravat1 yet z !y are ne>ly all d]iv$
 f "s ( ^? already expla9$1 x is b      
little long] ?an any "o ( !m4 ,x is     
plac$ ne>ly at ! end ( ! "w z x is      
absolutely necess>y t ! ?irte5 fir/ %\ld
 be well /udi$ & dige/$1 previ\s to     
ent]+ ^u ?is2 = x w\ld be z va9 = a     
vet]an fa%ionable to attempt ! =mation (
 any ( ! foll[+1 )\t hav+ previ\sly made
 himself acqua9t$ ) ! prec$+1 z = a "y  
ma!matician to attempt an explanation ( 
! ?ird book ( ,leg5dre1 )\t hav+ /udi$ !
 fir/ & second4   ,cravate de ,*asse4   
,?is ,cravat is by "s lgans call$  la   
,diane1 al?\gh x is a k9d ( poetical    
lic5se to suppose t ?is r unfa%ionable  

,goddess wore "o4 ,x is d\bly cross$ on 
! neck1 z %ewn 9 ! ,cravate  l',amrica9e
 7plate ,c1 fig4 #ac74 ,x %\ld n be     
/>*$1 & mu/ be fold$ pla9ly1 z %ewn 9   
plate ,a1 fig4 #a--! col\r mu/ be deep  
gre51 or feuille morte1 :i* is m re*]*4 
,see plate ,d1 fig4 #bd4   ,cravate  la 
,diane4  ,exactly simil> to ! la/1 b !  
col\r mu/ be :ite4   ,cravate           
l',anglaise4  ,is =m$ 9 ! same way z !  
,nud ,gordi51 b is nev] />*$4      ,see 
plate ,b1 fig4 #f1 #g1 #h1 #i1 #aj &    
#aa4   ,cravate  l',indp5dance4  ,! same
 z ! ,amrica9e1 except 9 col\r2 x is    
compos$ ( r$1 blue & :ite1 9 alt]nate   
/ripes2 all o!r %ades are /rictly       
prohibit$4      ,see plate ,c1 fig4 #ac4
   ,cravate en ,valise4  ,is compos$ l !
 ,nud ,gordi51 except ! ends1 :i*1      
in/ead ( be+ br\ght d[n1 are turn$      
inside ! knot2 ! h&k]*ief mu/ be r      
small1 or x w be impossible to conceal !
 ends1 :i* ) ! knot %\ld pres5t !       
appe>ance ( a travell+ portmanteau4  ,! 
fav\rite col\r is t ( ,russia lea!r4    

,see plate ,d1 fig4 #be4   ,cravate en  
,coquille4  ,! tie ( ?is ,cravat %\ld   
resemble a %ell2 x is v pleas+1 & easily
 =m$2 x consi/s ( a d\ble or triple     
knot1 & ! ends are fa/5$ at ! back ( !  
neck4 ,x does n require />*1 & may be   
worn ) or )\t a :alebone /iff5]4  ,!    
col\r may be t mo/ pleas+ to ! we>]4    
,see plate ,d1 fig4 #bf4   ,cravate de  
,voyage4  ,is put on 9 ! same way z !   
,byron4   ,cravate  la ,col94  ,is      
comm5c$ l ! ,byron1 ,b]gami1 & ,talma2 a
 m]e knot is made1 ! ends left loose1 & 
%irt coll> turn$ d[n1 z %ewn 9 !        
,cravate ,jesuitique4  ,?is /yle        
possesses ! great advantage ( prev5t+ ! 
we>] f ent]+ any public place1 & ( caus+
 him to be %ewn 7politely7 to ! door (  
any private h\se4      ,see plate ,d1   
fig4 #bg & #cb4   ,cravate en ,jet      
d',eau4  ,! same z ! ,cravate en        
,cascade4      ,see plate ,c1 fig4 #ag4 
,cravate ,casse ,cur4  ,! same z !      
,b]gami2 ! fav\rite col\r is r$ 7,sang  
de ,buf74      ,see plate ,c1 fig4 #ah4 

,cravate  la ,p>esseuse4  ,! ,p>esseuse 
is und\bt$ly "o ( ! mo/ conv5i5t & easy 
me?ods ( we>+ ! ,cravat4 ,x has be5 r   
neglect$1 & we ?9k unju/ly s1 z x       
comb9es ! advantage ( conceal+ ! %irt ( 
! we>]1 & display+ ! h&k]*ief to        
advantage4 ,x may be put on 9 a mom5t1 &
 ?is /yle c be adopt$ ) complete success
 9 we>+ a h&k]*ief a second "t4 ,x %\ld 
be prep>$ z %ewn 9 plate ,a1 fig4 #b2   
plac$ on ! front ( ! neck1 ! ends are   
pass$ r\nd & cross$ on ! *e/1 z %ewn 9  
plate ,d1 fig4 #bh4  ,m>ri$ m5 &        
antiquat$ beaux seem to be its greate/  
admir]s2 x may be />*$ or n ad libitum4 
,cravate ,romantique4  ,! same z !      
,byron2 x is *iefly worn 9 ! c\ntry1 & !
 prevail+ col\r is solitaire4      ,see 
plate ,c1 fig4 #af4   ,cravate  la      
,fidlit4  ,! same z ! ,ma?matique4 ,!   
privates ( ! ex-national gu>d ( ,france 
wore x :5 9 uni=m1 & x has s9ce be5     
recomm5d$ to ! ex-m9i/ry ( our own      
c\ntry4 ,x mu/ be black1 & fold$ on a   
:alebone /iff5]1 & %\ld be s c>efully   

put on z to prev5t all appe>ance ( !    
%irt1 except ! coll>1 :i* mu/ be ( ! mo/
 dazzl+ :ite4      ,see plate ,c1 fig4  
#bj4   ,cravate  la ,talma4  ,?is /yle  
is worn 9 m\rn+ only4 ,x is plac$ on !  
neck 9 ! same way z ! ,byron & ,b]gami4 
,see plate ,d1 fig4 #bi4   ,cravate     
l',itali5ne4  ,is =m$ 9 ne>ly ! same    
mann] z ! ,irl&aise1 b in/ead ( turn+ ! 
ends r\nd ea* o!r1 !y are pass$ ?r\gh a 
r+1 return$ to ! side !y come f & fa/5$ 
at ! back ( ! neck by a small knot4  ,x 
requires a :alebone /iff5]1 & %\ld be   
prep>$ z %ewn 9 plate ,a1 fig4 #a4 ,/>* 
is unnecess>y4 ,:ite only is admissible4
      ,see plate ,d1 fig4 #cj4          
,cravate ,diplomatique4  ,! same z !    
,cravate  la ,ga/ronome4      ,see plate
 ,c1 fig4 #bh4   ,cravate  la ,russe4   
,9 ?is /yle are includ$ all ,cravats :i*
 are fa/5$ at ! back ( ! neck1 )\t !    
ends be+ at all br\ght 9 front2 ^! %\ld 
n be conceal$ "u ! ,cravat1 b d[n !     
back1 & c>e mu/ be tak5 to prev5t _!    
ris+ above ! wai/coat4 ,any col\r is    

all[$1 & />* may be us$ or n ad libitum4
      ,see plate ,d1 fig4 #ca4          
,cravate ,jesuitique4  ,?is is a ,cravat
 9 appe>ance only4  ,= ?is /yle !       
wai/coat mu/ be made en cuirasse1 & !   
coll> mu/ be high en\gh to conceal !    
neck entirely4 ,! %irt coll> is turn$   
d[n & =ms a k9d ( b&4  ,al?\gh ?is /yle 
has lately become v g5]al1 we h nev] be5
 at all prepossess$ 9 its fav\r2 n m]ely
 because x is unpleasant to ! eye1 b t  
we r pride ourselves 9 despis+ mo/      
cordially :atev] has ! lea/ resemblance 
to ! "n or quality ( a ,jesuit4         
,see plate ,d1 fig4 #cb4         99     
99       99       99       99  ,9 clos+ 
?is lesson1 we mu/ obs]ve1 t al?\gh we h
 specifi$ ! col\r :i* fa%ion seems to h 
patroniz$ = ea* p>ticul> /yle ( ,cravat1
 we d n 79 any in/ance7 int5d to exclude
 ! *a/e simplicity ( :ite1 :i* may be   
introduc$ 9 any ( !m4     ,,lesson      
,,xvi4  ,,& ,,la/4  ,important &        
necess>y ,obs]vations4   ,9 all cases ( 
apoplexy1 fa9t+1 or illness 9 g5]al1 x  

is requisite to loos5 or ev5 remove !   
,cravat imm$iately4         99       99 
99       99       99  ,! greate/ insult 
t c be (f]$ to a man1 comme il faut1 is 
to seize him by ! ,cravat2 9 ?is case   
blood only c wa% out ! /a9 ^u ! hon\r ( 
ei!r p>ty4         99       99       99 
99       99  ,! ,cravat %\ld inv>iably  
be loos5$ be=e ! comm5cem5t ( /udy1 or (
 any important bus9ess4         99      
99       99       99       99  ,^? :o h 
a %ort neck1 high %\ld]s1 a r\nd1 full1 
& fre% col\r$ face1 & :o are at all     
subject to head a*es1 beat+s ( !        
temples1 c4 %\ld be mo/ c>eful to we> ! 
,cravat loose2 ! neglect ( ?is          
precaution w g5]ally produce an attack (
 ! compla9t to :i* !y may be liable4    
99       99       99       99       99  
,^? :o are accu/om$ to sleep 9 !        
,cravat1 %\ld be mo/ c>eful 9 exam9+    
:e!r x be loose4 ,9 all cases ( organic 
diseases ( ! he>t1 or l>ge vessels1 c4 x
 %\ld be entirely prohibit$4         99 
99       99       99       99           

,la/ly4--,e p]son at all accu/om$ to    
travel1 & :o has ! lea/ respect = 8     
appe>ance1 %\ld provide himself ) a box 
= conta9+ a collection ( ,cravats4  ,?is
 box mu/ be divid$ into sev]al          
comp>tm5ts1 & be made ( ! foll[+        
proportions2 eighte5 in*es 9 l5g?1 six  
in*es 9 wid?1 & twelve 9 dep?1 x %\ld   
conta91  #a ,a doz5 7at lea/7 ( pla9    
:ite ,cravats4  #b ,! same quantity (   
spott$ & /rip$ :ite ,cravats4  #c ,a    
doz5 col\r$ ditto4  #d ,?ree doz5 7at   
lea/7 %irt coll>s4  #e ,two :alebone    
/iff5]s4  #f ,two black silk ,cravats4  
#g ,! small iron m5tion$ 9 ! fir/       
lesson4  #h ,z _m copies z possible1 (  
?is important & useful "w1 tak+ !       
precaution ( hav+ !m well b\nd1 t !y may
 occupy less room4#b  #b ,editor's      
op9ion4     ,,conclusion4  ,on !        
,importance ( ! ,cravat 9 ,society4     
,:5 a man ( rank makes 8 entre into a   
circle di/+ui%$ = ta/e & elegance1 & !  
usual complim5ts h pass$ on bo? sides1  
he w discov] t 8 coat w attract only a  

slight degree ( att5tion1 b t ! mo/     
critical & scrut9iz+ exam9ation w be    
made on ! set ( 8 ,cravat4 ,%\ld ?is    
un=tunately1 n be correctly & elegantly 
put on--no fur!r notice w be tak5 ( him2
 :e!r 8 coat be ( ! reign+ fa%ion or n w
 be unnotic$ by ! assembly--all eyes w  
be occupi$ 9 exam9+ ! folds ( ! fatal   
,cravat4 ,8 reception w 9 future be     
cold1 & no "o w move on 8 entrance2--b  
if 8 ,cravat is savamm5t & elegantly    
=m$--al?\gh 8 coat may n be ( ! la/     
cut--e "o w rise to receive him ) ! mo/ 
di/+ui%$ m>ks ( respect1 w *e]fully     
resign _! seats to him1 & ! delight$    
eyes ( all w be fix$ on t "p ( 8 p]son  
:i* sep>ates ! %\ld]s f ! *9--let him   
speak d[nright nons5se he w be applaud$ 
to ! skies2 x w be said--8?is man has   
critically & deeply /udi$ ! ?irty-two   
lessons on ! ,art ( ,ty+ ! ,cravat40--,b
 aga9 rev]se ! picture--x w be f\nd t ! 
un=tunate individual :o is n aw>e ( !   
exi/5ce ( ?is ju/ly celebrat$ "w--h[ev] 
well in=m$ he may be on o!r subjects--w 

be consid]$ z an ignorant pret5d]1 & w  
be compell$ to suff] ! imp]t95ce ( !    
fop1 :o w treat him ) disda91 m]ely     
because 8 ,cravat is n correctly        
dispos$--he w moreov] be oblig$ to he> 9
 sil5ce1 & to approve 7"u pa9 ( be+     
consid]$ unacqua9t$ ) ! common rules (  
polit5ess7 all ! rem>ks :i* he w ?us    
subject himself to--occasionally reliev$
 by he>+ a :isp] ( 8,he _c ev5 put on a 
,cravat prop]ly40   ,,! ,,end4          
,,table ,,( ,,cont5ts4                  
,page4      ,introduction               
iii                           ,,!       
,,cravat4      ,its philosophical1      
moral1 & political hi/ory2 )            
reflections on its influ5ce on          
society--f its       orig9 to ! pres5t  
"t                              #i      
,,! ,,/ock4      ,its orig9--inconv5i5ce
 & advantages--its col\r1       =m1 c4  
#ag      ,! black & col\r$ silk ,cravat 
#ba                          ,,fir/     
,,lesson4      ,prelim9>y obs]vations   
#be                          ,,second   

,,lesson4      ,cravate ,nud ,gordi5    
#cj                          ,,?ird     
,,lesson4      ----  l',ori5tale        
#cd                          ,,f\r?     
,,lesson4      ----  l',amrica9e        
#cf                          ,,fif?     
,,lesson4      ---- ,colli] de ,*eval   
#cg                          ,,six?     
,,lesson4      ---- ,s5tim5tale         
#ci                         ,,sev5?     
,,lesson4      ----  la ,byron          
#da                          ,,eigh?    
,,lesson4      ---- en ,cascade         
#dc                          ,,n9?      
,,lesson4      ----  la ,b]gami         
#dd                          ,,t5?      
,,lesson4      ---- de ,bal             
#de                         ,,elev5?    
,,lesson4      ---- ,ma?matique         
#df                         ,,twelf?    
,,lesson4      ----  l',irl&aise        
#dh                        ,,?irte5?    
,,lesson4      ----  la ,m>atte         
#di                        ,,f\rte5?    
,,lesson4      ----  la ,ga/ronome      

#ej                        ,,fifte5?    
,,lesson4      ,eighte5 diff]5t me?ods (
 putt+ on ! ,cravat      #ea            
,cravate de ,*asse                      
#eb      ----  la ,diane                
#ec      ----  l',anglaise              
ib4      ----  l',indp5dance            
ib4      ---- en ,valise                
#ed      ---- en ,coquille              
ib4      ---- de ,voyage                
#ee      ----  la ,col9                 
ib4      ---- en ,jet-d',eau            
#ef      ---- ,casse-,cur               
ib4      ----  la ,p>esseuse            
#eg      ---- ,romantique               
ib4      ----  la ,fidlit               
#eh      ----  la ,talma                
ib4      ----  l',itali5ne              
#ei      ---- ,diplomatique             
ib4      ----  la ,russe                
#fj      ---- ,jesuitique               
ib4                   ,,sixte5?         
,,lesson1 ,,& ,,la/4      ,important &  
necess>y obs]vations                    
#fb                                     

,,conclusion4      ,on ! ,importance ( !
 ,cravat 9 society               #fe