,,cotton ,,manufactur+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,s+le-,,action ,,jacqu>d ,,loom4 ,frontispiece4 ,,cotton ,,manufactur+4 ,,by ,c4 ,p4 ,,brooks1 ,exam9] to ! ,city & ,guilds ( ,london ,in/itute2 ,s54 ,hon\rs ,m$alli/1 ,cotton ,manufactur+1 #ahhg2 ,late ,lectur] on ,cotton ,sp9n+1 ,weav+1 & ,design+1 at ! ,blackburn ,te*nical ,in/itutions4 ,,) ,,ov] ,,eighty ,,illu/rations4 ,?ird ,edition4 ,,blackburn3 ,c4 ,p4 ,,brooks1 ,,! ,,m\nt4 ,,london3 ,e4 ,f4 ,n4 ,,spon1 #abe ,,/r&1 ,,& ,,new ,,york3 #ab ,,cortl&t ,,/reet4 #ahib4 ,all rights res]v$4 ,clo?1 cr[n #hvo1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,,second ,,edition4 ,,weav+ ,,calculations4 ,,by ,,! ,,same ,,au?or4 ,a ,h&book on all ,calculations requir$ 9 ,weav+ & ! ,prep>atory ,processes1 includ+ ,/&>d ,wage ,li/s4 ,= fur!r p>ticul>s see ! end pages ( ?is book4 ,,preface4 ,! lack ( books relat+ to ! weav+ ( cotton goods is ! motive :i* has l$ to ! production ( ?is "w4 ,al?\gh sev]al admirable books are extant on special bran*es ( textile indu/ry1 few1 if any1 works claim to treat practically ( ! :ole range ( processes popul>ly kn[n z ,cotton ,manufactur+ z at pres5t conduct$1 & :i*1 at ! same "t1 are )9 rea* ( ! artisan's pocket4 ,?is class ( "w is all ! m requisite 9 consequ5ce ( ! admirable sy/em ( trade education introduc$ by ! ,city & ,guilds ( ,london ,in/itute1 ^: syllabuses = ! subjects ( ,cotton ,manufactur+ & ,weav+ & ,patt]n ,design+ are includ$ 9 ?is "w4 ,x is hop$ t ! /ud5t 9 ei!r ( ^! subjects may f9d a h&y book ( ref]5ce 9 ?is volume1 :i* goes into explanatory details to z great an ext5t z space all[s4 ,h[ev]1 z ! au?or has f\nd1 & d\btless _m o!rs actively engag$ 9 ! indu/ry h discov]$1 x is becom+ a requisite 9 ! mill t ^? employ$ !re be possess$ ( some?+ m ?an 8rule ( ?umb0 sy/ems ( work+--t c>eful & intellig5t rese>* & inve/igation is necess>y to success 9 e dep>tm5t4 ,! writ] tru/s t ?is volume1 bas$ on practical exp]i5ce & on ! application ( !oretical pr9ciples 9 ! indu/ry1 may prove ( assi/ance to su*4 ,9 addition to *apt]s on ,weav+1 9 :i* ref]5ce is made to mo/ ( ! pla9 & figur$ fabrics wov5 9 cotton1 space is devot$ to ! prep>atory processes1 especially to ! important "o ( ,siz+2 a *apt] on ,mill ,calculations is add$1 z well z a ,gloss>y ( ,te*nical ,t]ms--necessitat$ by ! nom5clature ( diff]5t di/ricts4 ,ackn[l$gm5t is made ( ! assi/ance r5d]$ by _m correspond5ts1 ^: sugge/ions h be51 & w be1 welcom$4 ,! ?anks ( ! au?or1 & x may be add$ ^? ( ! read]1 are due to ! _m firms :o h l5t blocks to illu/rate & simplify ! lett]press4 ,among/ ^! may be m5tion$ ,messrs4 ,david ,s[d5 ,sons1 ,%ipley2 ,butt]wor? ,dick9son1 ,burnley2 ,j4 ,h4 ,/ott1 ,ro*dale2 ,devoge ,co41 ,man*e/]2 ,willan ,mills2 ,w>d ,bros42 & ,w4 ,dick9son ,sons1 ,blackburn2 :il/ especial m5tion %\ld be made ( ,messrs4 ,h[>d ,bull\gh1 ( ,accr+ton1 ^: siz+ ma*9]y has be5 select$ = description2 & ( ,messrs4 ,hy4 ,livesey1 ,limit$1 ,blackburn1 ^: well-kn[n weav+ & prep>atory ma*9]y is engrav$4 ,c4 ,p4 ,b4 ,! ,m\nt1 ,blackburn1 ,janu>y1 #ahhh4 ,,preface ,,to ,,! ,,second ,,edition4 ,9 ?is edition "s necess>y additions & alt]ations h be5 made1 especially 9 ! /ati/ical portion ( ! "w2 & z ! ,city & ,guilds ( ,london ,in/itute h alt]$ ! ,syllabus ( ! textile subjects dur+ ! few mon?s t h elaps$ s9ce ! publication ( ! ,fir/ ,edition1 ! old ,syllabus has be5 replac$ by ! new "o4 ,ap>t f ^! alt]ations ! book reta9s its orig9al =m1 & ! au?or hopes t ?is issue w obta9 f ^? int]e/$ 9 cotton manufactur+ ! same k9dly appreciation z ! =m] edition4 ,c4 ,p4 ,b4 ,april1 #ahhi4 ,,cont5ts4 ,,page ,,*apt] ,i4--,,introductory4 ,hi/ory1 ,/ati/ics1 ,cotton & ,cotton ,sp9n+1 ,cotton ,manufactur+ #a ,,*apt] ,,ii4--,,w9d+ ,,& ,,w>p+4 ,w>p ,y>n1 ,w9d+1 ,beam+1 ,sectional ,w>p+1 ,ball ,w>p+ #ba ,,*apt] ,,iii4--,,siz+4 ,mat]ials1 ,mix+1 ,ma*9]y #cb ,,*apt] ,,iv4--,,weav+4 ,pla9 ,loom1 ,movem5ts ( ,loom1 ,modifications ( ,loom1 ,splits #eb ,,*apt] ,v4--,,cotton ,,clo?4 ,v>ieties1 ,dim5sions1 ,/&>d ,makes #hj ,,*apt] ,,vi4--,,fancy ,,weav+4 ,fancy ,weav+ by ,tappets & ,dobby1 ,analysis ( ,clo?1 ,tappets1 ,dobby1 ,gauze1 ,h&k]*ief ,motion #hi ,,*apt] ,,vii4--,,jacqu>d4 ,jacqu>d ,clo?1 ,wov5 ,pile ,clo?s #aah ,,*apt] ,,viii4--,,drop ,,boxes4 ,drop-,box ,looms1 ,/ripes1 ,*ecks1 ,spott+ #acc ,,*apt] ,,ix4--,,calculations4 ,mill ,calculations1 ,y>n ,c\nts1 ,re$s1 ,healds1 ,co/ ( ,clo?1 ,w>p+ & ,siz+ ,l5g?s1 ,wages1 ,spe$s1 ,eng9es1 ,miscellane\s #adc ,,syllabus ,,( ,,te*nological ,,subjects #afa ,,gloss>y ,,( ,,te*nical ,,t]ms #afe ,,index #afi ,,cotton ,,manufactur+4 ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,introductory1 ,,hi/ory1 ,,/ati/ics1 ,,cotton ,,& ,,cotton ,,sp9n+1 ,,manufactur+4 ,9 ! g5]al acceptance ( ! t]m1 manufactur+ is und]/ood to ref] to ! :ole range ( processes :i* conv]t a raw mat]ial into ! f9i%$ article1 b :atev] t ^w may usually signify1 9 ! ,cotton ,trade x is te*nical = t dep>tm5t only1 :i* comprises ! conv]sion ( cotton y>n into wov5 fabric1 & z su* is und]/ood 9 ! ensu+ pages4 ,?is dep>tm5t is frequ5tly work$ ap>t f sp9n+1 & ! gradual & m>k$ sev]ance ( ! cotton indu/ry into ! two great dep>tm5ts ( sp9n+ & manufactur+ is a /rik+ feature ( ?is great trade1 al?\gh ! reason ( cotton sp9n+ f9d+ s f]tile a soil 9 ,s\? ,lanca%ire is no m app>5t ?an ! cause ( ,nor? ,lanca%ire be+ s fav\rable to ! prosp]ity ( cotton weav+4 ,probably accid5tal causes 9 ! e>ly days ( ! trade _h mu* to d ) its future division--! fix+ ^u a ,s\? ,lanca%ire t[n = ! e/abli%m5t ( ! fir/ sp9n+ ma*9i/'s works1 ! fact t ! factory sy/em 0 firmly e/abli%$ 9 ! sp9n+ dep>tm5t be=e ! work+ ( looms 9 "o build+ 0 possible1 or at any rate advisable1 & ! exi/5ce ( l>ge w>eh\ses 9 ,nor? ,lanca%ire = di/ribut+ to ! h&-loom weav]s _! mat]ials = use1 7 probably "s ( ^! causes4 ,! fact ( ! trade be+ c>ri$ on 9 two divisions1 ea* 9 diff]5t di/ricts1 has its disadvantages1 ! greate/ be+ t ( additional c>riage--an extra co/ ( no inconsid]able am\nt4 ,to remove ?is & o!r disadvantages1 _m attempts h be5 made to introduce ! lack+ dep>tm5t bo? 9 ! ,nor? & ,s\? ( ,lanca%ire1 b su* attempts h g5]ally fail$ to a great] or less ext5t1 ma9ly 9 consequ5ce ( ! incompet5ce ( ! h&s1 or r ! insuffici5t numb] ( compet5t ones4 ,:]e ! majority may excel 9 weav+1 ! numb] ( good sp9n]s is g5]ally v small1 & vice v]s4 ,ano!r objection is ! disadvantage at :i* ! "o p>ty is plac$ %\ld ! production ( "o "p ( ! indu/ry exce$ t ( ! o!r1 ! m>g9 :i* might s]ve to provide remun]ative occupation = bo? be+ at pres5t (t5 unequally di/ribut$1 ! ov]-produc] tak+ ! l[] position4 ,on ! contr>y1 !re is no d\bt t ! skill ( ! op]ative is m greatly develop$ :]e "o di/rict takes up a specific bran* ( ! sub-divid$ lab\r1 & conducts x 9 a m fully equipp$ /yle1 ?an w\ld be ! case 7 x to be attempt$ on a small scale4 ,! kn[n pre-em95ce ( ,man*e/] z ! m>ket t[n is attribut$ 9 "p to ! necessity = "s common c5tre :]e a meet+ ( ! repres5tatives ( ea* ( ^! indu/ries c\ld take place to transact ! bus9ess ( ! trade4 ,! ,ex*ange ( ,cottonopolis is t c5tre4 ,"h1 e day ( ! week1 b m especially on ! ,tuesday & ,friday m>ket days f all p>ts :]e ! cotton trade is conduct$1 ! sp9n] goes to meet ! manufactur]1 ! manufactur] to meet ! m]*ant1 :o 9 turn repres5ts all c\ntries to :i* our manufactures are export$2 & ?us ! ,ex*ange has become1 z x 71 ! he>t ( ! trade1 = on x dep5ds ! prosp]ity ( ! :ole indu/ry1 & a /oppage or dim9ution ( ! bus9ess !re p>alyses ! trade4 ,! movem5t ( ! cotton trade1 l t ( civilisation1 has ev] be5 we/w>d4 ,india is recognis$ z hav+ be5 f "t immemorial its home1 & al?\gh !re cotton has probably be5 9 use = ages z clo?+1 !re is no evid5ce to %[ t ! sub/ance 0 ev5 kn[n 9 ,europe till ! t5?1 or t its manufacture 0 comm5c$ 9 ,engl& till ! end ( ! sixte5?1 c5tury4 ,at t "t ! weav]s us$ y>n made f 8cotton wool10 z x 0 call$1 b :i* y>n 0 furni%$ by ! ,levant & only us$ = weft1 l95 =m+ ! w>p4 ,h[ev]1 ! inv5tion ( simple h&-sp9n+ app>atus r5d]$ x possible = ! ev]-increas+ dem& = cotton y>n to be adequately suppli$ = a "t by ,engli% sp9/]s1 & x is *ronicl$ t1 9 #agja1 #a1ijj1jjjlb4 ( raw cotton 7 import$1 al?\gh x is improbable t ! :ole ( x 0 requir$ = conv]sion into clo?4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ! eighte5? c5tury su* inv5tions z t ( ,kay's fly %uttle s increas$ ! output ( ! h& loom z to cause = "s ye>s a de>? ( y>n4 ,?is _h a good effect 9 induc+ ! great era ( inv5tion 9 cotton-sp9n+ ma*9]y1 f #agfj to #aghj2 dur+ :i* "t ,h>greaves1 ,arkwright1 ,crompton1 & _m less] lights br\ght be=e ! _w ! results ( _! lab\r4 ,^! inv5tions1 ! importance ( :i* x is n necess>y to ref] to--_! details & ! /ory ( _! inv5tion hav+ be5 s frequ5tly dilat$ ^u--^! creat$ ! cotton manufacture4 ,! cause :i* influ5c$ ! developm5t ( sp9n+ ma*9]y 0 anti!tical to t :i* n[ caus$ an ext5sion ( ! weav+1 :i* 0 an excess ( ! supply ( y>n1 & = :i* ! only consum]s 7 ! loom%ops atta*$ to scatt]$ h\ses on ! c\ntry side1 conta9+ "o or two pond]\s h&-looms4 ,x is r m ?an a c5tury s9ce ! ,rev4 ,e4 ,c>twright1 a ,k5ti% m9i/]1 fir/ gave 8 att5tion to ! inv5tion ( a p[] loom1 & al?\gh 8 fir/ pat5t 9 #aghe 0 n satisfactory1 yet x is to ?is cl]gyman's ef=ts t ! _w is indebt$ = ! fir/ p[] loom4 ,9 #aghg1 he pat5t$ su* a ma*9e1 fitt$ ) spr+ motion1 batt5 or slay1 temples1 etc41 ) ! addition ( a protector & weft /op motion 9 an imp]fect =m4 ,n9e ye>s aft]w>ds ,rob]t ,mill>1 ( ,glasg[1 appli$ to x ! means ( pick+ by plates & %$d+ by tappets or wip]s4 ,"h all ! pr9ciples ( ! mod]n loom 7 pres5t1 al?\gh 9 v diff]5t =m1 & x is only 9 details t ! loom ( a c5tury lat] pres5ts a diff]5t aspect4 ,9 #ahcd ! weft /op motion 0 pat5t$ by ,messrs4 ,ramsbottom & ,holt1 :i* 0 p]fect$ sev5 ye>s lat] & pat5t$ 9 its pres5t =m by ,messrs4 ,j4 ,bull\gh & ,k5wor?y1 ( ,blackburn4 ,to ^! g5tlem5 is due ! inv5tion ( an improv$ dress+ ma*9e call$ a 8tape10 ! =]unn] ( sla%+2 also ! take-up motion = clo?4 ,!y1 too1 pat5t$ ! loose re$ loom & ! roll] temple2 b f records ( ! "t & tales told by ! old] section ( ! community 9 ,blackburn to-day1 app>5tly1 x is to ,john ,osbalde/on t ! hon\r is due ( break+ ! concussion ( ! loom & inv5t+ an improv$ temple4 ,he also orig9at$ _m ( ^? inv5tive appliances s ess5tial to adapt ! p[] loom = weav+ fancy goods1 b 0 n successful 9 secur+ any pecuni>y advantage to himself1 ?us illu/rat+ ! fact t n e b5efactor ( 8 species meets ) ! rew>d due to 8 m]its4#a ,! creative _s :i* c>ri$ cotton-sp9n+ ma*9]y to s high a degree ( p]fection1 0 direct$ also to ! improvem5t ( ! prep>atory ma*9]y ( ! weav+ dep>tm5t4 #a ,ald]man ,baynes' ,lectures1 #aheg1 at ,blackburn4 ,9 ! h&-loom days ea* weav] /iff5$ or dress$ 8 own w>p :il/ x 0 9 ! loom1 apply+ ! size ) a flat bru%4 ,a l5g? ( ab\t two y>ds 0 siz$ 9 ?is mann]1 & dri$ by means ( hot irons be+ pass$ ov] ! surface ( ! w>p1 pap] be+ fir/ laid ov] ! damp twi/1 or by means ( a fan2 grease aft]w>ds be+ appli$4 ,9 ! face ( our mod]n sy/ems ?is old-fa%ion$ me?od h>dly appe>s cr$ible4 ,! pa/e us$ 0 a mixture ( fl\r & wat]1 boil$ ov] ! fire1 & /or$ 9 a /one vessel n unlike a sw9e tr\gh4 ,probably f ?is reason ! t]m 8s[ box10 indicat+ 9 our mod]n 8sla%]s0 ! size vessel1 arose2 & etymologi/s may f9d "s connection betwe5 x & ! ^w s[l9'--a common expression 9 ,lanca%ire = a mixture ( ! nature ref]r$ to--( its int5d$ use or application4 ,! necessity = ?is 0 remov$ by ! inv5tion ( ! dress+ ma*9e by ,william ,ratcliffe & ,?omas ,john/on1 8 assi/ant1 ( ,/ockport1 9 ! ye> #ahjc1 by :i* w>ps 7 siz$ be=e putt+ !m 9 ! loom4 ,?is dress+ ma*9e consi/$ ( little m ?an a frame ) roll]s to c>ry ! w>p f two back beams1 "o at ea* end1 to ! c5tre :]e ! weav]'s beam 0 fix$1 :il/ betwe5 7 arrang$ bru%es trav]s+ to & fro by means ( rods actuat$ f a crank 9 ! s-call$ crank dress+ ma*9e1 to apply ! 8s[0 or size4 ,9 addition !re 0 a wood5 fan to dry ! w>p1 :i* pass$ ?r\gh ! healds & re$ also4 ,dress+ 0 9 vogue until #ahcj )\t any competitive sy/em1 b soon aft] ?is ! tape frame1 produc+ five times m "w ?an ! dress+ ma*9e1 0 inv5t$1 & cont9u$ 9 use until 9 an improv$ =m--deliv]+ ! y>n direct to ! weav]'s beam1 & ) /ill fur!r capacity = l>ge turn\t ( "w--x "u ! "n ( ! 8sla%]0 takes ! lead among all siz+ sy/ems n[ curr5t1 :i* important position is attributable to a great ext5t to ! spe$ & to ! good quality ( ! turn (f4 ,to ,james ,bull\gh1 a native ( ,we/h\ghton 7?\gh f e>ly life a resid5t ( ,blackburn71 may be cr$it$ ?is la/ inv5tion1 :i* br\ght 9 its tra9 ! beam-w>p+ frame1 & f\nd increas$ employm5t = ! w9d+ frame inv5t$ e>ly 9 ! c5tury by ! s5ior ,rob]t ,railton4 ,! factory sy/em 0 deeply root$ 9 ! sp9n+ dep>tm5t be=e we he> ( any attempt at ga!r+ a l>ge numb] ( looms "u "o ro(4 ,arkwright _h a sp9n+ mill z e>ly z #agga1 b ! fir/ successful weav+ %$ 0 built 9 ,glasg[ 9 #ahja by ,mr4 ,montei?1 & conta9$ #bjj looms2 previ\sly1 9 #agij1 ,messrs4 ,grim%aw p>tially erect$ "o at ,knot ,mills1 ne> ,man*e/]1 :i* 0 burnt to ! gr\nd by a mob ( h&-loom weav]s4 ,9 #ahac1 we le>n ( #bdjj p[] looms be+ 9 use 9 ! ,unit$ ,k+dom4 ,s9ce !n ! numb] ( factories has rapidly increas$1 & except+ = ! effects ( occasional det]r5t influ5ces1 su* z w> & fam9e1 ! cotton manufacture has /eadily prosp]$ & ext5d$4 #bej1jjj h&-loom weav]s1 & #cj1jjj p[]-loom weav]s 7 engag$ 9 all weav+ trades ( all mat]ials 9 #ahcc4 ,n[1 9 #ahhg1 #bej1jjj p[]-loom weav]s are engag$ 9 ! cotton indu/ry alone2 :ile 9 mo/ di/ricts a h& loom is a curiosity z a relic ( ! pa/4 ,! contra/ is great1 m especially s :5 x is rememb]$ t dur+ ! same p]iod ! trade has be5 e/abli%$ 9 _m =eign c\ntries :]e no?+ b h&icraft skill 0 available at ! e>ly "p ( ! p]iod1 b :]e n[ ! numb] ( mules & looms has gr[n1 & is gr[+1 s rapidly z to create out ( =m] consum]s important competitors 9 ! export trade4 ,! rec5t hi/ory ( cotton manufactur+ has be5 m>k$ by little :i* has caus$ ext5sive alt]ations 9 its me?ods4 ,! ext5sive & well-organis$ association ( ! op]atives = ! protection ( _! position 9 relation to ! ma/]s1 has become a p[]1 z %[n by ! great /rike ( #ahgh1 :5 ! op]atives 7 able to resi/ ! ma/]s = a p]iod ( n9e weeks1 & by ! increas+ influ5ce ( ! employs 9 all trade que/ions4 ,! m important ,p>liam5t>y proce$+s relat+ to ! cotton trade dur+ ! "t ( its be+ conduct$ on ! factory sy/em are1 ( c\rse1 ! ,factory ,acts4 ,! fir/ important legislative enactm5t 0 ! ,factory ,act ( #ahcc4 ,by ?is no "y p]son "u #ah 0 all[$ to "w be=e #e4cj a4m4 or lat] ?an #h4cj p4m41 nor m ?an #ab h\rs p] day1 al?\gh #c h\rs extra might be work$ p] week to make up = lo/ "t4 ,*ildr5 _h to be #i ye>s old1 & _h n to "w m ?an #dh h\rs p] week till #aa ye>s ( age1 hav+ #b h\rs' s*ool+ p] day to be provid$ by ! employ]4 ,9 #ahdd1 females ov] #ah 7 grant$ ! same privileges z "y p]sons1 & *ildr5 7 all[$ to "w #f-a_/b h\rs p] day if only #h ye>s old4 ,"w _h to cease at #d4cj on ,saturday4 ,9 #ahdf1 ! h\rs ( lab\r 7 r$uc$ to #aa p] day1 & #fc p] week = *ildr51 "y p]sons1 & females4 ,only m9or alt]ations 7 made till #ahgd1 :5 ! ,t5 ,h\rs' ,bill 0 pass$1 limit+ "w to #aj h\rs p] day1 & #f-a_/b on ,saturday4 ,9 #ahgh1 all ! previ\s ,acts 7 repeal$ & a new "o made :i* is /ill 9 =ce1 & requires t = "y p]sons & females ! h\rs be limit$ to #aj p] day1 & #ef-a_/b p] week2 t no *ild be employ$ at all "u #aj ye>s ( age1 or "u ! ,second ,educational ,/&>d2 & only half-"t bel[ #ac unless ! ,f\r? ,/&>d ( ,elem5t>y ,education %all h be5 pass$1 fail+ :i* ! limit is #ad ye>s ( age4 ,males & females "u #ah are deem$ "y p]sons1 & all "y p]sons & females possess c]ta9 advantages ov] ! male work]s1 :i* rights are protect$ by ,gov]nm5t inspectors4 ,! ,bill 0 a l5g?y "o1 & conta9s _m re/rictions z to holidays1 pa9t+ & clean+1 reports ( accid5ts1 f5c+ ma*9]y1 & s*ool att5dance1 = ! b5efit ( ! employ4 ,! ,limit$ ,liability ,act ( #ahfb gave great facilities = conduct+ bus9ess by companies ( m ?an sev5 memb]s1 ^: liability 9 case ( a collapse does n exce$ ! am\nt promis$ on =mation--a s*eme inaugurat$ = ! b5efit ( ! work+ classes1 b :i* has be5 misappli$ 9 _m in/ances4 ,! ,employ]s' ,liability ,act ( #ahhj gives facilities = recomp5se to ! workm5 = accid5t or injury su/a9$ by ! neglig5ce ( ! employ] or 8 deputies1 su* liability be+ incurr$ "u c]ta9 conditions only1 & be+ re/rict$ to ! am\nt ( ?ree ye>s' sal>y4 ,! ,m]*&ise ,m>ks ,act ( #ahhg has caus$ a reaction 9 ! t5d5cy t[>ds %ort l5g?s & false description1 by mak+ x a p5al (f5ce to falsely m>k goods ei!r 9 respect to dim5sion1 quality1 c\nts1 or place ( manufacture4 ,9 addition to ^!1 ! v>iation ( t>iff *>ges1 notably ! r$uction ( ,indian t>iffs1 ! returns & reports to ,p>liam5t ( /ati/ical in=mation1 ! ,inquiry ,commissions1 & "s few small enactm5ts1 all h _! influ5ce 9 a great] or less] degree on ! indu/ry4 ,! cotton goods ( a /&>d make at ! comm5cem5t ( ?is c5tury compris$ pr9t]1 musl9s1 corduroys1 fu/ians1 %eet+s1 %irt+s1 twills1 g+hams4 ,9 #ahcj1 records give madapollams1 tanjibs1 dome/ics1 jacconets1 gauze l5o1 figur$ musl91 splits1 & velvete5s4 ,lat]1 9 #ahdf1 !re are *ronicl$ lawns1 books1 na9sooks1 figur$ c\nt]panes2 &1 9 #ahfd1 brilliante1 *ambrey1 blue mottle1 sat9 *ecks1 9 addition to previ\sly m5tion$ goods1 f :i* li/ ! abs5ce ( dhooties1 ,turkey r$s1 ,turki% t[els1 & clo?s ( lat] orig9 w be not$4 ,a comp>ison ( ! position ( ! cotton trade to-day ) :at x 0 "s ?irty ye>s ago %[s a decid$ *ange 9 "o respect--i4e41 9 ! firms conduct+ ! bus9ess4 ,_m ( ! old private firms h disappe>$ & _! places be5 tak5 by companies1 :ile1 = _m ye>s back1 ! t5d5cy has appe>$ to be 9 fav\r ( c>ry+ on ! trade by ! co-op]ation ( small capitali/s4 ,"s ( ^! companies are n limit$1 be+ =m$ by a few speculative op]atives :o inve/ ! sav+s ( a frugal lifetime 9 ! mill conc]n1 to :i* !y also devote _! lab\r1 be+ satisfi$ at ! ye>'s end if !y h drawn an ord9>y wage1 week by week1 :ile ! capital has be5 add$ to1 & increas$4 ,manufactur+1 9 consequ5ce ( ! comp>atively small] am\nt ( capital requir$1 is g5]ally select$ = ! above sy/em4 ,to ^! e/abli%m5ts _m ( ! weal?y manufactur]s ( ,nor? ,lanca%ire c trace ! beg9n+ ( _! prosp]ity4 ,by f> ! great] numb] ( ^! companies1 h[ev]1 especially 9 sp9n+1 are on ! limit$ liability pr9ciple1 & _! increas+ numb] %[s h[ valu$1 z an inve/m5t1 su* companies are2 s mu* s t x appe>s n unlikely1 :at ) ! n>r[+ m>g9s & increas$ competition1 t ! trade w1 at no v di/ant p]iod1 cease to be a means ( mak+ ! weal?y cotton "l1 &1 z ! trade falls into ! h&s ( gigantic companies1 become m]ely a bank1 ) a small rate ( int]e/1 9 :i* ! weal? ( ! small] ,lanca%ire capitali/s w be lock$ up4 ,?is c>ries our ?\ghts to ano!r bran* ( ! subject--! importance ( ! trade ) reg>d to ! capital inve/$ 9 x1 a sum :i* _c fall %ort ( sev5ty-five million p\nds ev5 9 ,great ,brita9 alone1 )\t tak+ ! alli$ indu/ries ( ma*9e-mak+1 dye+1 calico pr9t+1 lace & hosi]y manufactur+ into acc\nt4 ,by dipp+ into calculation1 tak+ ! sp9dles at ! figure ( #ags4 #f;d4 ea*1 & ! looms at #af1 ! am\nt inve/$ 9 plant w t\* #de1jjj1jjj1 & add+ to ?is a float+ capital ( #cj1jjj1jjj1 fully :i* w be necess>y to ! trade 9 import+ ! raw mat]ial1 conv]t+ x into fabric & di/ribut+ ! same to ! _w1 a total sum is obta9$ :i* indicates :at is at /ake 9 ?is mighty indu/ry4 ,,/ati/ics4 ,a p]usal ( ! subjo9$ li/ w indicate 9 figures ! ext5t ( ! trade1 & f x w be obs]v$ ! comp>ative importance ( our trade ) ea* c\ntry4 ,tak+ ! value ( ! exports ( piece goods only z ! /&>d ( comp>ison1 ! li/ ( c\ntries w be f\nd z foll[s3-- ,exports ( ,cotton ,manufactures--,piece goods ( all k9ds4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- ,,quantities4 ,,value4 ---------------------------------------- -------- ,twelve ,mon?s end$ ,twelve ,mon?s end$ ,,c\ntry4 ,decemb]4 ,decemb]4 ---------------------------------------- ------ #ahhf4 #ahhg4 #ahhf4 #ahhg4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,g]many ,yds4 #de1ceh1djj #dj1gfe1jjj #fgf1cba #fbf1ajd ,holl& #cd1acb1bjj #dc1bjc1bjj #eai1dia #eij1aed ,belgium #fa1dii1fjj #fe1gab1gjj #hfg1fff #iba1bjg ,france #ce1dgd1ijj #cd1ehe1cjj #fha1jdg #eih1eca ,portugal1 ,azores1 & ,madeira #ed1cab1cjj #ff1gfa1djj #efc1jjf #fhc1dbi ,italy #he1jec1ijj #aai1ifa1ejj #ife1jaj #a1cfd1jge ,au/rian ,t]ritories #f1cia1bjj #e1idf1hjj #gf1bia #gb1bde ,greece #cf1jbj1ijj #ce1hfj1jjj #dbi1jff #ded1hfb ,turkey #bii1gjf1bjj #bii1hbd1djj #c1ceh1ihj #c1bga1gfh ,egypt #aci1chd1ejj #aef1aej1ijj #a1bhj1cce #a1cia1gcf ,we/ ,coa/ ( ,africa 7,=eign7 #cg1dic1bjj #df1cid1cjj #dbg1ide #edg1ghd ,unit$ ,/ates #de1bea1fjj #dd1jbh1ejj #a1adh1iee #a1jed1bba ,=eign ,we/ ,indies #ij1bcg1ijj #ie1bbc1gjj #ibb1cbb #igc1bbg ,mexico #cb1cab1bjj #ce1dab1bjj #cei1icb #chj1cgh ,c5tral ,am]ica #cg1ejc1hjj #ec1dij1hjj #cgi1bhj #ebb1jjf ,unit$ ,/ates ( ,colombia #db1ije1hjj #fa1fcg1ajj #dbe1gaf #egb1jhb ,v5ezuela #bc1gah1bjj #dd1fig1cjj #bci1bhg #ddf1ebh ,brazil #bda1jcd1ejj #bae1cgj1djj #b1fgi1bgc #b1eag1hii ,uruguay #ce1gcb1fjj #di1gfg1hjj #dad1dig #fae1fhe ,arg5t9e ,republic #ajd1hab1ajj #aje1ehe1ajj #a1bbd1ehf #a1cid1fjd ,*ili #ei1gja1hjj #gc1fid1hjj #efb1gbb #gfh1cff ,p]u #cc1eic1jjj #bc1hid1hjj #ced1chi #bea1ahi ,*9a & ,hong-,kong #dee1hbc1jjj #eeb1gdb1gjj #d1egj1bjg #e1fbd1iec ,japan #cd1fbh1ejj #fe1djc1hjj #chc1ejj #fii1dfb ,dut* ,possessions 9 ,india #hf1eaa1ejj #aje1egb1gjj #ibh1hac #a1jhb1cdh ,philipp9e ,isl&s #dc1bad1gjj #ci1bdg1ijj #dha1eac #chg1jfb ,gibralt> #ab1jhb1cjj #ag1dbd1cjj #ach1gfg #aij1ihh ,malta #bd1jba1ejj #af1ihg1ajj #bej1ffh #age1jaj ,we/ ,coa/ ( ,africa 7,briti%7 #bh1ejb1fjj #ch1ehd1cjj #cah1ifd #dad1bhc ,briti% ,nor? ,am]ica #cb1ehd1gjj #cc1fib1ejj #fcd1aeh #fbj1cgh ,briti% ,w4,i4 ,isl&s & ,guiana #db1gbc1bjj #ea1eic1ajj #dhi1cfg #ehb1hjc ,briti% ,possessions 9 ,s4 ,africa #ba1dfe1hjj #cb1ddc1cjj #cda1fhi #ebc1hde ,briti% ,ea/ ,indies ,bombay ,yds4 #gig1ggf1ijj #fdg1fgc1djj #f1hga1gcc #e1gcg1dge ,madras #adb1fhg1bjj #abf1hjd1cjj #a1djh1aic #a1bif1afa ,b5gal #a1agh1cgd1cjja1jcg1dfd1hjjaj1bjg1ebc #i1dbb1eed ,/raits ,settlem5ts #ajc1ibi1fjj #add1egj1hjj #idi1ihc #a1cbe1efb ,ceylon #ad1hfh1bjj #af1iad1bjj #afj1bja #ahd1jbd ,au/ralasia #if1gef1fjj #ia1cii1ijj #a1gjj1dcb #a1eea1jfi ,o!r ,c\ntries #aeb1fbi1ajj #afe1bfb1ajj #a1ggi1hdd #a1ijg1beg ---------------------------------------- ------ ,total #d1hej1baj1ejjd1ijd1aji1bjjej1aga1fgbea1 gdc1cad ---------------------------------------- ------ ,total --,:olly ( ,cotton-- ,unblea*$ or ,blea*$#c1dig1hff1ajjc1dgc1dgg1djjcb1bcg 1fhbcb1hab1hdf ,pr9t$ ,dy$1 or ,col\r$ #a1cea1igf1gjja1dcj1ecg1fjjag1ibb1dedah1 ibe1ihe ,total ( ,mix$ ,mat]ials1 ,cotton pr$om9at+ #cfg1gjj #id1bjj #aa1ecf #d1dhc ---------------------------------------- ------ ,total #d1hej1baj1ejjd1ijd1aji1bjjej1aga1fgbea1 gdc1cad ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,9 #ahhf1 accord+ to ! e/imate ( ,messrs4 ,ellison1 ( ,liv]pool1 ! numb] ( sp9n+ sp9dles 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! _w 0 z foll[s3-- ,great ,brita9 #db1gjj1jjj ,cont95t #bb1ijj1jjj ,unit$ ,/ates #ac1cej1jjj ,ea/ ,indies #b1ajj1jjj ---------- #ha1jej1jjj ,9 a rec5t e/imate publi%$ by ,messrs4 ,worral ,co41 ( ,oldham1 ! sp9dles & looms engag$ on cotton 9 ,lanca%ire & its bord]s are giv5 z #dj1idf1gji sp9dles1 & #ehb1ejd looms4 ,?is does n include o!r p>ts ( ! k+dom1 nor a numb] ( looms j n[ />t+2 !re=e we may )\t err+ take ! numb] ( cotton looms 9 ! k+dom at ab\t #fae1jjj4 ,9 ,india !re are #ah1ecf p[] looms4 ,! numb] ( p]sons employ$ is3 ,males #aif1cgh ,females #cjg1fia ------- #ejd1jfi ( :i* #dfe1fed are 9 ,engl& & ,wales1 #cg1afg 9 ,scotl&1 & #abdh 9 ,irel&4 ,,cotton ,,di/ricts4 ,tak+ into consid]ation ! v>i\s di/ricts ( ,lanca%ire1 ,blackburn is ! mo/ nor!rn ( ^? :i* take an important "p 9 ! indu/ry1 & ?is t[n also takes ! lead 9 ,lanca%ire1 if n 9 ! :ole _w1 ) reg>d to its importance z an exclusively cotton manufactur+ t[n4 ,! class ( goods made are ( a pla9 "*1 pr9cipally %irt+1 mulls1 & jacconetts1 :ile a l>ge numb] ( looms are engag$ on dhooties1 grey & col\r$1 :i* goods 7 introduc$ f ,glasg[4 ,a l>ge quantity ( dobby dhooties are manufactur$ 9 ?is di/rict--?is class ( clo?1 ( comp>atively rec5t orig91 hav+ be5 fir/ made 9 ,blackburn4 ,! local sp9n+ indu/ries are n[ v important1 mo/ ( ! sp9dles be+ run by ^? :o are also manufactur]s4 ,d>w5 weav+ trade is ( a simil> "*1 & !re is a fair trade 9 y>n by sev]al sale-sp9n+ mills4 ,! neighb\r+ t[ns ( ,pre/on & ,*orley h a connection ) goods ( a di/9ctly f9] & m 8fancy0 "*1 su* z l5o1 velvete51 damasks1 embroid]y1 & brocades1 :ile ! pla9 trade1 includ+ ! well-kn[n home trade %irt+1 is important4 ,"h also ! sp9n+ trade is comp>atively small1 ! y>ns spun be+ #dj_/hj's ,t & #dj_/ij's ,w4 ,burnley is rem>kable = ! rec5t increase ( cotton manufactur+ )9 its bor\gh1 & has a mo/ ext5sive trade 9 ,burnley pr9t]s & %irt+s1 ) a few heavy twills--rank+ second to ,blackburn 9 quantity produc$4 ,accr+ton1 ,h>wood & di/rict h a pla9 trade1 b 9 y>ns ! goods are ( a mu* f9] "* ?an o!r pla9 di/ricts4 ,a l>ge bus9ess is done 9 ! bett] classes ( pr9t]s = ! supply ( ! local pr9t & dyeworks4 ,! sp9n+ ( m$ium f9e y>ns1 #dj_/bjj's1 f ,egyptian cotton1 seems to be c5tr$ 9 ,bolton1 z is also ! manufacture ( heavy fancy goods1 especially ,alhambra1 ,m>seilles1 & o!r c\nt]panes & t[els1 ) "s f9] fancies--l5o1 damasks1 & velvets2 al?\gh _m mills are to be f\nd engag$ 9 ,blackburn goods4 ,hasl+d51 ,bacup1 ,rawt5/all1 & _m small] di/ricts 9 ,ea/ ,lanca%ire are engag$ on manufactures ( co>se & heavily-siz$ goods1 %irt+s1 ,t-clo?s1 ,wigans1 & dome/ics4 ,man*e/]1 :ile be+ pre-em95tly ! ,engli% m>ket ( ! manufactur$ cotton goods1 is also kn[n z ! locality :]e ! f9e/ y>ns kn[n to comm]ce are spun--i4e41 y>ns f ,egypt1 & ,sea ,isl& cottons1 #hj_/bjj's 9 twi/s1 & #hj_/cej's 9 weft4 ,! f9] numb]s1 h[ev]1 are n us$ = ! ord9>y purposes ( manufactur+1 _! consumption be+ divid$ betwe5 ! lace curta9 manufactories ( ,nott+ham & ! great sew+ ?read factories4 ,! weav+ trade ( ,man*e/] consi/s ( *ecks1 g+hams1 ,h>v>d & ,ox=d %irt+s4 ,oldham is1 x is ne$less to /ate1 ! sp9n+ t[n4 ,"h ! co>se/ y>ns1 #d_/bd's1 made out ( ! wa/e f f9] mills1 h _! sp9n+ c5tre1 & "h ! sp9n+ ( m$ium y>ns f ,am]ican cotton has made ! "n ( ! t[n famili> :]ev] ,engli% cotton y>n is kn[n4 ,ro*dale dep5ds ma9ly on ! co>se trade1 #ab_/bd w>ps 7wat] ,t7 made f ,indian cotton1 toge!r ) "s mule sp9n+ up to #cj_/dj's4 ,! weav+ ( ! heavie/ cotton goods f wa/e1 twills1 %eets1 ,t-clo?s1 velvete5s1 fu/ian & cords1 is "h c>ri$ on4 ,mossley1 #cj_/ej's1 w>p y>n2 ,%aw ,lees1 ,royton1 ,duk9field1 ,a%ton1 ,heywood & ,hyde1 may be plac$ 9 ! same category z ,oldham1 m9us ! wa/e trade4 ,/alybridge sp9s #cj_/aej's4 ,/ockport has good trade 9 sp9n+1 z high z #aej's gass$ & d\bl$ y>ns ) v>i$ weav+1 includ+ ! well-kn[n ,turki% t[els4 ,nor mu/ ! o!r p>ts ( ! ,unit$ ,k+dom be =gott54 ,cotton weav+ ext5ds no fur!r into ,york%ire ?an ,todmord51 & ab\t #b1jjj1jjj sp9n+ & d\bl+ sp9dles are 9 use ab\t ,halifax1 ,brigh\se1 ,s[]by ,bridge & di/rict1 ^! be+ employ$ on y>ns = dress fabrics made ( a mixture ( cotton & wor/$1 z well z = curta9s & hosi]y 9 ! ,nott+ham & ,leice/] di/ricts4 ,9 ,scotl&1 ! cotton trade is conf9$ to ! c\nties ( ,lan>k1 ,r5frew & ,ayr4 ,! sp9n+ trade is "h go+ d[n rapidly1 !re only be+ ab\t "o ?ird ! numb] ( sp9n+ sp9dles runn+ ?is ye> 7#ahhh71 z comp>$ ) #aheg4 ,! d\bl+ sp9dles are on ! increase1 especially = ! ,paisley ?read trade4 ,! weav+ dep>tm5t is also increas+1 !re be+ 9 ! ?ree c\nties #bh1hec looms z comp>$ ) #bj1ifc 9 #ahef4 ,! sup]ior classes ( clo? are made = ! home trade--f9e re$s1 f9e musl91 pla9 & figur$1 & ! manufacture ( ,turkey r$s is also ext5sive4 ,9 ,irel& !re are ?ree cotton-sp9n+ firms1 ?ree cotton-weav+ firms1 & "o bo? sp9n+ & weav+1 ) a total ( #gj1ijj sp9dles1 & #beja p[] looms4 ,summ>is+ ! diff]5t classes ( "w into :i* ! indu/ry is divid$1 we may allot to ! co>se pla9 trade ! ,ross5dale ,valley & ,ro*dale1 locat+ ! m$ium pla9 trade 9 ,blackburn1 ,burnley & ,d>w51 ) ! f9e/ pla9 goods 9 ,accr+ton & ,pre/on1 ! light fancy trade 9 ,pre/on1 ,*orley1 & ,a%ton1 & ! heavy fancy 9 ,bolton & ,bury4 ,,cotton4 ,ev5 9 a manual treat+ ( ! weav+ processes x is n =eign to ref] succ9ctly to ! cotton & ! treatm5t x has und]gone to fit x = use 9 a weav+ %$4 ,! manufactur] :o has _h exp]i5ce 9 a sp9n+ mill (t5 f9ds ! k acquir$ !re to /& him 9 good /ead 9 ! selection & use ( ! y>n4 ,our *ief supplies ( cotton are drawn f ! ,unit$ ,/ates ( ,nor? ,am]ica2 next 9 importance1 al?\gh f> remov$ 9 quantity f ! fir/-nam$1 is ,ea/ ,india1 !n ,egypt1 & la/ly ,brazil4 ,cotton is a fibr\s vegetable sub/ance1 be+ ! fruit ( ! cotton plant1 a %rub ( ! ,malvace1 g5us ,gossypium4 ,!re are sev]al v>ieties ( ?is plant1 b ! developm5t ( ! raw mat]ial is ! same 9 ea*4 ,! plant atta9s its full height ab\t ,june 7?is be+ ab\t two mon?s subsequ5t to s[+71 & ! bolls or se$ pods are f\nd to be rip5+ ab\t ! middle ( ,july4 ,^! bolls1 ab\t #a;94 diamet]1 are divid$ by membran\s walls into ?ree p>ts1 conta9+ ?ree or f\r se$s ea*1 cov]$ ) ! ?9 transp>5t cyl9drical fibres atta*$ by "o end to ! se$4 ,z ! fruit approa*es maturity1 ^! fibres lose _! cyl9drical =m1 becom+ ribbon-%ap$ ?r\gh ! collapse ( _! walls1 & at ! same "t ea* fibre twi/s on its axis1 ?us caus+ a suffici5t pressure on ! int]ior ( ! boll to bur/ x at ! junction ( ! comp>tm5ts 9 ! out] cas+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,aft] be+ left on ! trees = "s days1 dur+ :i* "t ! rip5+ influ5ces are at "w1 increas+ ! convolutions & matur+ ! fibre--or expos$ p]haps 9 ! case ( unfav\rable wea!r to ! damag+ influ5ce ( ra91 :i* /a9s ! cotton1 or int5se heat :i* r5d]s x brittle1 or w9d :i* fills ! boll ) s& or leaf--! cotton is pick$4 ,x is !n pass$ ?r\gh a g91 a ma*9e :i* has = its object ! sep>ation ( ! fibre f ! se$4 ,?is latt]1 :i* 9 m$ium-/apl$ cotton exi/s 9 ! proportion ( #blb4 se$ to #alb4 fibre1 is us$ up at ! oil-mills--:ile ! cotton is pack$ 9 bales ( #d;cwt4 & =w>d$ to ! sea-coa/ = export4 ,! =ego+ may be tak5 z a cond5s$ description ( ! cultivation ( cotton on an ,am]ican plantation4 ,9 ,brazil & ,egypt ! season is ab\t a =tnight lat]2 9 ,india plant+ g5]ally comm5ces 9 ,july1 or imm$iately aft] ! dry season4 ,! raw fibre !n is a ribbon-%ap$ filam5t ) cord$ edges twi/$ ) #cjj to #hjj convolutions to ! in*2 ?us1 al?\gh to ! nak$ eye appe>+ q smoo?1 "u ! microscope x has some:at ( a resemblance to ! %ape ( a jo9]'s aug]4 ,fig4 #a repres5ts a typical cotton fibre ab\t #djj times ! actual size1 & ,fig4 #b repres5ts its section4 ,fig4 #c repres5ts an immature or imp]fect fibre1 "o :i* is m transp>5t1 brittle1 & weak ?an ! ord9>y fibre1 ) no t5d5cy to take dye4 ,! convolutions also are few & irregul>4 ,fig4 #d repres5ts its section4 ,! longe/ fibre is ! ,sea ,isl& cotton gr[n (f ! coa/ ( ! ,/ates1 av]ag+ #a-e_/h in*es 9 l5g?1 & *iefly spun into #aej's to #djj's y>n1 al?\gh = exp]im5tal purposes #baej's h be5 produc$ f x4 ,egypt gives ?ree v>ieties--br[n1 :ite1 & ,gall9i4 ,! fir/-nam$ is commone/ & is us$ = #ej's to #aej's wefts & twi/s4 ,! ,am]ican ,/ates yield a comp>atively clean & ev5-runn+ cotton1 ! be/ v>iety be+ ,orleans1 ( a mean l5g? ( #a-a_/af in*es1 us$ = #cj_/dj's ,t & #cj_/fj's wefts4 ,texas1 ?\gh %ort]1 is f its /r5g? us$ = w>p y>n1 :ile ! num]\s v>ieties class$ z upl&s or b[$s are suitable = weft on acc\nt ( _! usual good col\r & cleanl9ess4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 ! :ite #fj's & #gj's wefts & br[n ditto is t ! latt] is f br[n ,egyptian cotton4 ,brazilian is a v h>% fibre ab\t av]age l5g?1 & us$ = twi/s ei!r alone or mix$ ) ,am]ican4 ,! ,ea/ ,indian v>ieties are extremely v>iable 9 l5g?1 & also 9 relation to ! quantity ( weak fibres2 ! prop]ties common to almo/ ! :ole be+ br[n col\r1 & dirty & r\gh "* ( ! cotton4 ,x is *iefly us$ 9 ,ross5dale1 ,bury & ,oldham = co>se c\nts4 ,9 ! m$ium trade ! fibre is subject$ to no few] ?an n9e processes 7ea* diff]5t1 & sometimes duplicat$ or triplicat$7 be=e x arrives at ! =m ( ev5 ?read kn[n z y>n4 ,9 ! f9e trade two or ?ree additional processes are add$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,i4--,,plan ,,( ,,%$4 ,to face pp4 #af & #ah4 ,! sp9n+ dep>tm5t1 to describe x briefly1 consi/s (3-- #a4 ,mix+ ! cotton 9 /acks to secure ?or\gh bl5d+ ( v>i\s qualities1 & elim9ation ( ! unev5ness pres5t 9 diff]5t bales or p>ts ( "o bale4 ,!n comm5ce processes = cleans+1 viz43-- #b4 ,op5+ or pass+ ! matt$ pieces ( ! bales ?r\gh a s]ies ( arm$ beat]s hav+ ! functions ( bo? sep>at+ ! mat]ial into small flakes & remov+ ! heavi] impurities conta9$ 9 x1 su* z s& & se$s4 #c4 ,scut*+4--,9 ?is process a w+ beat]1 revolv+ at a spe$ ( #aa_/aejj revolutions p] m9ute1 removes ! rema9d] ( ! heavy dirt1 deliv]+ ! mat]ial 9 ! =m ( a lap or roll ( cotton4 ,?is process is repeat$4 #d4 ,c>d+4--,"h1 by means ( revolv+ cyl9d]s cov]$ ) f9e wire tee?1 & comb+ ! cotton aga9/ o!r cyl9d]s or plates simil>ly cov]$1 ! light impurities--leaf1 du/1 %ort & weak fibres--are extract$1 & ! lap att5uat$ into a ?9 sliv]1 9 :i* ! fibres are laid 9 su* a position z to be easily drawn p>allel at ! draw+ process4 ,^! f\r k9ds ( clean+ ma*9]y remove impurities & o!r matt] =eign to ! nature ( cotton1 to ! ext5t ( ab\t #aj p] c5t41 tak+ middl+ ,am]ican cotton4 #e4 ,comb+4--,! long fibres are "h sep>at$ f ! %ort1 ?us enabl+ a portion ( ! cotton to be us$ = sp9n+ f9] y>ns ?an ! bulk w\ld sp94 ,x is only 9 ! mills sp9n+ y>ns above1 say #hj's1 t ?is process is f\nd2 9 ord9>y1 ! cu/om is to g direct f c>d+ to #f4 ,draw+4--,a simple process repeat$ = y>n up to #cj's1 us$ ?ree times up to #fj's1 & f\r processes are us$ above ?is4 ,! ma*9e has = its object ! levell+ ( ! sliv]s1 six ( :i* are plac$ toge!r & drawn six times ! orig9al l5g?4 ,:5 ?is has be5 repeat$ once or twice1 ! sliv] becomes v ev5 & silky 9 consequ5ce ( all ! fibres hav+ _h ! curl tak5 out & be5 laid p>allel to ea* o!r4 #g4 ,slubb+2 #h4 ,int]m$iate2 & #i4 ,rov+4--,^! frames are all con/ruct$ on "o pr9ciple1 & h = _! object ! gradual dim9ution ( ! ?ickness ( ! sliv]1 :i* at ^! processes is att5uat$ s mu* z to require twi/+ to keep x f break+ at ! succe$+ process4 ,an additional jack rov+ frame is us$ at mills mak+ ov] #ajj's y>n4 #aj4 ,sp9n+ completes ! object ( all ! =m] ma*9es--i4e41 to produce a level clean ?read1 free f unev5ness 9 e respect4 ,f\r sorts ( ma*9es are us$ = complet+ ! att5uation--! self-actor mule1 r+ frame1 h& mule1 & ?ro/le frame4 ,! two latt] are fa/ disappe>+ 9 consequ5ce ( ! great improvem5ts ov] ! h& mule rec5tly made 9 ! self-actor mule1 s z to sp9 f9e c\nts up to #cjj's1 & 9 ! increas$ output ( ! r+ ov] ! ?ro/le frame4 ,! mule is automatic 9 all its movem5ts = sp9n+ ! y>n & w9d+ x on ! sp9dle 9 ! =m ( a cop--i4e41 a cyl9drical coil ( y>n1 cone-%ap$ at ea* end4 ,9 ?is ma*9e ! sp9n+ is int]mitt5t--i4e41 = a few seconds ! diff]5t portions ( ! ma*9es are engag$ 9 draw+ out ! rov+ to ! requir$ f95ess until ab\t #fd in*es h be5 spun1 ! slack be+ tak5 up by a mov+ c>riage be>+ ! sp9dles1 !n a few seconds are employ$ 9 draw+ back ! c>riage & w9d+ ! y>n on ! sp9dles4 ,! r+ frame is a con/ant sp9n]1 & z fa/ z ! y>n is spun x is w\nd on a bobb91 :ile ! necess>y twi/ is put 9 by a travell] %ap$ revolv+ r\nd a r+4 ,x w ?us be se5 t ! r+ frame is only suit$ = w>p y>ns1 ma9ly 9 consequ5ce ( hav+ to use a bobb91 :i* ( c\rse requires modifications 9 ! %uttle & box ( ! loom1 & ev5 !n is disadvantage\s4 ,! r+ frame is suitable & pref]able = w>p y>n up to #dj's1 :]e ! sp9n] also reels1 w>ps or weaves 8 own sp9n+4 ,! mule sp9s bo? weft & twi/4 ,?ro/le twi/ 7or1 z x is call$ :5 reel$ or w>p$ by ! sp9n]1 wat] twi/7 is g5]ally admitt$ to be ! ev5e/ & r\nde/ ?read1 r+ twi/ be+ next be/1 & mule y>n inf]ior to bo?4 ,mule y>n1 h[ev]1 possesses an ela/icity :i* nei!r ( ^! c boa/ (4 ,f a consid]ation ( sp9n+ we arrive at a def9ition ( ! manufactur+ processes4 ,unlike ! sp9n+ :i* is c>ri$ on 9 a build+ five or six /oreys high1 ! manufacture ( cotton goods takes place 9 a 8%$10 z mu* ( ! "w z is possible be+ c>ri$ on on ! gr\nd floor4 ,! weft y>n1 or t :i* is laid transv]sely 9 ! clo?1 leaves ! mule 9 ! condition 9 :i* x is requir$ at ! loom1 b ! twi/ or w>p y>n passes ?r\gh sev]al 8prep>atory0 processes to fit x = ! op]ation 9 ! weav+3-- #a4 ,w9d+--to take ! y>n f ! cop & place x on ! w>p]'s bobb94 #b4 ,w>p+ or beam+ to w9d ! y>n f #djj or #ejj bobb9s to "o l>ge beam4 #c4 ,siz+--i4e41 cov]+ ! w>p ) an adhesive prep>ation to fit x = /&+ ! /ra9s 9 weav+4 #d4 ,atta*+ ! healds & re$s to ! w>p1 call$ loom+ or draw+-94 #e4 ,weav+4 ,ea* ( ^! w be describ$ m fully 9 succe$+ *apt]s1 & z 9 diff]5t di/ricts diff]5t me?ods are employ$1 m especially 9 ! siz+ & beam+ sy/ems1 ! "o *os5 = mo/ m9ute description w be ! "o us$ mo/ commonly1 al?\gh ! o!r sy/ems w be ref]r$ to4 ,! weav+ mill--or1 z x is t]m$1 %$--requires description next4 ,! g5]al details ( su* a build+ w be m easily und]/ood by ref]r+ to ! annex$ plan4 ,! mo/ important po9t to rememb] 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! rooms = ! diff]5t processes1 is to place ea* s z to require z little transit ( mat]ial z possible4 ,! eng9e1 a cond5s+ "o ( #aaj indicat$ ,h4,p41 horizontal1 is driv5 by ! /eam g5]at$ 9 a #cj;ft4 by #g;ft4 two-flu$ /eel boil] work+ at #abjlb4 pressure4 ,9 ! flue is fix$ a set ( economis]s heat$ by ! hot air & gases g5]at$ 9 ! furnace1 & ?r\gh ! pipes ( :i* passes ! fe$ wat]4 ,9 ! w9d+ room are two #bjj sp9dle ma*9es 7#ajj ea* side71 keep+ #ab w9d]s employ$4 ,!re are #c beam+ frames1 #ejd ends ea*4 ,9 ! siz+ dep>tm5t are f\nd ! usual becks & ci/]ns = mix+ purposes1 & "o sla%] siz+ ma*9e4 ,x w be not$ t ! weav+ %op has direct communication ) ! loom+ room :]e ! beams are /or$1 & ) ! w>eh\se :5ce ! weav]s obta9 ! y>n1 at ! same "t return+ ! manufactur$ mat]ial4 ,!re is also an outlet into ! mill y>d )\t pass+ ?r\gh any o!r dep>tm5t4 ,9 case ( a new %$ hav+ to be built1 _m important que/ions pres5t !mselves = consid]ation4 ,9 fix+ ^u ! site1 ! ess5tials = a suitable position are a f\ndation suffici5tly damp & ( su* a nature z n to easily "p ) moi/ure1 ev5 9 hot wea!r1 s z to pres]ve t humid atmosph]e s ess5tial to good weav+1 m especially :]e heavy siz+ is resort$ to2 yet !re mu/ be no yield+1 = x is ( vital importance t vibration be r$uc$ to a m9imum1 bo? 9 weav+1 w9d+ & w>p+1 to avoid breakages ( y>n4 ,z _m read]s w be aw>e1 x is p>tially 9 consequ5ce ( ?is disadvantage be+ remov$ 9 mills entirely on ! gr\nd floor1 & p>tially 9 consequ5ce ( ! increas$ dampness !reby obta9$1 t su* mills c obta9 good results out ( inf]ior y>ns4 ,a position 9 ! neighb\rhood ( good workpeople is mo/ important2 su* an advantage m ?an comp5sates = ! increas$ r5ts1 rates & o!r dues ( a t[n z comp>$ ) a c\ntry di/rict1 = ) inf]ior employs1 inf]ior "w1 & !re=e less advantage\s prices & few] ord]s1 are a consequ5ce1 :ile ! co/ ( production is increas$4 ,good coal & wat] supplies are ( importance1 & are be/ obta9able 9 ! vic9ity ( a canal1 & if ! di/rict "u consid]ation be a hilly "o1 x w be wor? :ile consid]+ h[ to be %elt]$ f t bte noir ( a weav]1 ! ea/ w9d4 ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,,w9d+ ,,& ,,w>p+1 ,,w>p ,,y>n1 ,,w9d+ ,,f ,,cop1 ,,bobb9 ,,& ,,hank1 ,,beam+1 ,,sectional ,,w>p+1 ,,ball ,,w>p+4 ,z has be5 previ\sly m5tion$1 ! weft y>n1 :5 x leaves ! mule1 is 9 ! requisite =m = use at ! loom1 :il/ ! twi/ or w>p y>n passes ?r\gh at lea/ ?ree processes to fit x = ! op]ation ( weav+4 ,! object ( ^! processes is to coat ! y>n ) a lay] ( ! adhesive sub/ance necess>y to protect x f ! *af+ 9 ! loom1 &1 secondly1 to coil ! ?reads ( w>p ^u a flang$ roll] ev5ly1 s t !y w unw9d at ! loom 9 a level %eet ! wid? ( ! beam1 & conta9+ ! requisite numb] ( ends to make a clo? ( desir$ dim5sions4 ,be>+ ?is object 9 view1 x is n difficult to und]/& ! ?ree processes--w9d+1 w>p+1 & siz+4 ,,! ,,twi/4 ,! w>p y>n is g5]ally receiv$ by ! manufactur] f ! sp9n]s 9 skips ( #bjj_/bejlb4 weight1 & 9 ! =m ( a cop4 ,?is has a cyl9drical =mation con$ at ea* end1 ! m po9t$ end f :i* ! y>n is unw\nd be+ call$ ! nose1 ! opposite end ! cop bottom4 ,! be/ ,oldham sp9n]s make ! cop ab\t #g-a_/b in*es long & #a-c_/h in*es 9 diamet]4 ,9 judg+ twi/ y>n pref]5ce is giv5 to ! mo/ ev5 ?read1 r\nd & free f motes1 s(t places1 & sn>ls4 ,! latt] are caus$ by slack ends at ! mule1 ! torsion ( ! ?read tak+ up ! loose y>n 9 ! =m ( a twi/$ loop4 ,a simil> effect call$ a snick is caus$ by loose ends & inf]ior trav]ses at ! w9d+ frame1 b :]ev] caus$1 ! fault is mo/ annoy+ to ! weav]1 & det]iorative to ! clo? if int5d$ = pr9t+1 z ! loops rise aft] ! clo? has receiv$ ! impression ( ! patt]n1 %[+ :ite specks ( an objectionable "*4 ,! twi/ cop %\ld be ( full dim5sions1 firm & h>d copp$1 free f loose ends1 & hav+ cle> ap]tures at ! bottom = ! w9d]'s skew]4 ,any fault 9 ^! respects causes an increas$ p]c5tage ( wa/e--mo/ objectionable to a manufactur]4 ,! selection ( a y>n = pr(itable use dep5ds ^u ! =ego+ qualities1 b c>e mu/ be tak5 to select = heavy siz+ an op5ly spun y>n2 = lightly siz$ pr9t+ clo?s a /rong1 well-twi/$ y>n2 = sate5s & velvete5s a level "o2 & = o!r goods y>ns suitable to !m4 ,,w9d+ ,,f ,,cops4 ,! object ( ! ma*9e %[n on ,fig4 #g is to w9d ! y>n f ! cop to a bobb9 ( ab\t #d-a_/b in*es lift--t is1 hav+ a b>rel #a-a_/b in*es diamet]1 & a head or flange at ea* end ) a space betwe5 ( #d-a_/b in*es4 ,! ma*9e1 ,fig4 #g1 is duplex1 hav+ simil> p>ts on ea* side ( ! frame2 on ea* side w be obs]v$ two r[s ( sp9dles driv5 f a c5tral t9 drum by b&s2 five in*es f ! top ( ! sp9dle is fix$ a braid be>+ a flannel wa%] on :i* ! bobb9s re/1 & are driv5 r\nd by ! friction2 ! cops are fix$ 9 a sp9dle rail1 ! end f ea* pass+ r\nd a knee bo>d cov]$ ) flannel1 !nce ?r\gh a bru% :i* s]ves a second>y object ( cleans+ ! ?read f loose dirt1 & tight5+ x s z to prev5t snicks be+ =m$4 ,9 front ( ?is bru% is fix$ a guide plate1 slitt$ to prev5t ! w9d] lift+ ! ?read s z to pass lumps too l>ge to g ?r\gh ! slits4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g4--,,w9d+ ,,ma*9e4 ,to face pp4 #bb & #bc4 ,! bru% & guide plate =m a trav]se1 mov+ 9 slides alt]nately up & d[n to fill ! bobb9 ) y>n1 :i* is drawn f ! cop ?r\gh ^! 8clean]s0 by ! friction betwe5 ! bobb9 & ! revolv+ sp9dle4 ,to enable a great] l5g? ( y>n to be w\nd on ! bobb91 x is made ( a b>rel %ape--i4e41 ( great] diamet] at ! middle ?an at ! ends4 ,al?\gh ! fir/ few lay]s appe> p>allel1 a great] increase ( diamet] is notic$ at ! c5tre ( ! lift aft]w>ds1 simply caus$ by all[+ a long] dwell ( ! trav]se ?an at ! ends ( ! bobb94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,fig4 #h %[s an +5i\s arrangem5t = obta9+ ! reciprocat+ motion1 & at ! same "t ! v>y+ spe$4 ,a mangle :eel ,a is driv5 by p9ion ,b1 alt]nately engag+ ) ! inside & outside ( mangle :eel1 ?us rev]s+ its direction ( motion4 ,on mangle :eel %aft a spur :eel ,c ( ecc5tric motion ge>s ) a simil> "o ,d on a /ud1 driv+ by a p9ion ,e ! rack ,f connect$ ) ! trav]se4 ,:5 ! trav]se is halfway ( ! bobb91 ! mangle :eel is set opposite to ! p9ion ,b2 & ! small side ( ! ecc5tric ,c driv+ ! l>ge side ( ,d4 ,x is q pla91 !n1 t by ?is sett+ ( ! ecc5tric :eels ! trav]se w be at its sl[] spe$1 :ile z ! mangle :eel revolves ! l>g] side ( ,c w drive ,d1 & ?us drive ! trav]se quick] z x gets ne> to ! flange ( ! bobb91 & consequ5tly ne>] to its rev]sal4 ,an exactly simil> movem5t is obta9$ 9 ano!r make ( w9d+ frame by means ( a he>t cam actuat+ a treadle1 to "o end ( :i* is atta*$ ! trav]se *a94 ,z ! l>g] or small] "p ( ! he>t actuates ! treadle lev]1 x is driv5 m quickly1 :ile its normal spe$ is atta9$ :5 contact is equi-di/ant betwe5 ! apices4 ,x w be obs]v$ t :5 ! bobb9 atta9s a l>g] diamet]1 ev5 if ! spe$ rema9s ! same1 ! y>n is w\nd on m quickly 9 consequ5ce ( ! bobb9's great] circumf]5ce1 b ! spe$ is also increas$ because ( ! additional friction g5]at$ by ! increas$ weight4 ,to obviate ?is unev5 /ra9 on ! y>n1 ! back r[ ( sp9dles is (t5 made to revolve m sl[ly ?an ! front "o1 & z ! bobb9 increases 9 size x is plac$ on ! back r[4 ,w9d+ f ei!r ?ro/le or r+ bobb9s is p]=m$ on a simil> ma*9e1 modification hav+ to be made 9 ! sp9dle rail only1 s z to obta9 a prop] position = ! bobb9 to unw9d itself1 ! y>n com+ (f ! bobb9 at "r angles to x & caus+ x to revolve on ! modifi$ sp9dle4 ,occasionally1 :]e a manufactur] possess+ ! cop w9d+ frames uses r+ bobb9s1 ! y>n is unw\nd f !m 9 ! ord9>y way ov] ! nose ( ! bobb91 & a little additional drag is appli$4 ,w9d+ is p]=m$ by wom51 :o are remun]at$ at ! rate ( ab\t #a_/d;d4 p] lb4 = #cb's ,t1 & proportionately m = high] c\nts4 ,! mo/ frequ5t fault 9 ! %ape ( ! bobb9 is 9 its be+ s(t ne> "o ( ! flanges3 (t5 dirt ga!r+ 9 ! guides causes ?is1 or ! trav]se is n set half-way ( ! bobb9 :5 ! mangle :eel crab is opposite to ! p9ion4 ,gigg+ is ! "n giv5 to w9d+ (f any excessively l>ge bottoms by means ( a sl[ly revolv+ bobb91 =m+ "p ( ! w9d+ frame4 ,! spe$ ( ! driv+ drum av]ages #afj revolutions p] m9ute4 ,! trav]ses %\ld h all ga!r+s ( fluff1 motes1 etc41 bru%$ out twice a-day4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #i4--;,,beam+ ,,frame4 ,to face pp4 #bd & #be4 ,,w9d+ ,,f ,,! ,,hank4 ,col\r$ y>n us$ = dhootie & o!r /rip$ clo? is receiv$ by ! manufactur] 9 ! hank1 9 :i* =m x is dy$4 ,:5 w9d+ x on ! ord9>y bobb9 = w>p1 only slight modifications ( ! w9d+ frame are requir$4 ,a swift is sub/itut$ = ! sp9dle rail1 & us$ = hold+ ! hanks :ile unw9d+ !m1 :ile ! kneebo>d & bru%es are abs5t4 ,if ! col\r$ y>n be us$ = weft = head+ purposes1 a pirn is sub/itut$ = ! bobb94 ,o!r sy/ems ( w9d+ h be5 introduc$ ) only p>tial success1 ! pr9cipal "o be+ a modification ( drum-w9d+3 a tube on :i* ! y>n is w\nd re/s horizontally on a revolv+ drum1 ! ?read trav]ses ! wid? ( ! drum1 & ?us a bobb9 is built up1 hav+ level edges suffici5tly firm )\t any protect+ flanges4 ,! ord9>y drum-w9d+ is simil>1 except+ t a flang$ bobb9 is us$4 ,,beam-,,w>p+4 ,?ree me?ods ( w>p+ are 9 use1 b f> ahead ( ! o!rs 9 production /&s ! beam+ sy/em4 ,to enable a suffici5t numb] ( ?reads to be ga!r$ 9 "o %eet = siz+ purposes1 say #bjjj1 x is necess>y to w9d !m fir/ on a w>p]'s beam4 ,?is is a r\nd roll]1 ( wood1 five in*es 9 diamet]1 hav+ an iron flange #bj in*es diamet]1 & also an iron pivot at ea* end4 ,?is w hold #ejj ends1 ea* #ae1jjj to #bj1jjj y>ds 9 l5g?1 s t = a clo? ( #bjjj ends f\r beams are requir$ at ! siz+ ma*9e4 ,! beam-w>p+ ma*9e is = ! purpose ( w>p+ ! y>n f ^! #ejj bobb9s to a beam4 ,! bobb9s f ! w9d+ frame are plac$ 9 a creel1 g5]ally a ,v creel1 & %ap$ 9 plan view z its "n indicates1 ea* arm ( ! ,v be+ a frame conta9+ ti]s ( pegs to hold #bej bobb9s1 ! apex be+ ne>e/ to ! frame4 ,! y>n passes ?r\gh a re$1 "u & ov] sev]al horizontal roll]s1 em]g+ 9 front ?r\gh a guide comb1 & !nce to ! beam4 ,! beam is driv5 by friction1 re/+ on a l>ge drum mak+ ab\t #ej revolutions p] m9ute2 !re=e1 :atev] ! size ( ! beam may be--i4e41 :e!r full or empty--! y>n1 be+ pull$ at ! front1 is travell+ at a con/ant spe$4 ,to avoid sudd5 /ra9s ( y>n ! creel does n re/ on ! floor1 b is susp5d$ f ov]head beams by rods4 ,! old] makes ( beam+ frames h a b$ creel4 ,only "o v]tical creel is us$1 ! o!r half ( ! bobb9s be+ fix$ 9 a horizontal frame4 ,! ,v creel is pref]able4 ,! :ole frame occupies a space ( ab\t #af by #ah feet4 ,! guide comb is ( int]e/+ con/ruction4 ,x is capable ( expansion or contraction4 ,ea* too? ( ! comb projects f an iron box1 & is kept 9 position by be+ pass$ ?r\gh ! coils ( sev]al spiral spr+s2 by means ( a screw & nut at ea* end ^! spr+s c be compress$1 ?us dim9i%+ ! di/ance betwe5 ! comb-tee? equally at all p>ts ( ! comb4 ,:5 ! exp&+ combs are us$1 f> levell] beams are made ?an are o!rwise atta9able4 ,9 ! ev5t ( a ?read break+1 ! w>p] mu/ h "s arrangem5t = runn+ ! y>n back1 s z to f9d ! brok5 end to piece x up4 ,?is is obta9$ by six fall+ rods plac$ above sev5 fix$ ones4 ,:5 ! ma*9e is runn+ =w>d ! %eet ( y>n passes betwe5 ! fix$ & loose rods1 ! latt] re/+ on a slide4 ,:5 ! ma*9e is rev]s$1 ! slide receives a slight impulse1 all[+ "o rod to drop1 say #c-a_/b feet1 ! y>n be+ susp5d$ at ! top by ! fix$ rods2 :il/ ?is rod is dropp+ x pu%es ! slide /ill fur!r1 & ano!r drops1 & s on1 until :5 ! six? rod has fall51 twelve times #c-a_/b feet equall+ #db feet ( y>n are tak5 up4 ,?is is ample = piec+ purposes2 inde$1 ! woman 9 att5dance seldom f9ds x necess>y to g s f>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,to face pp4 #bf & #bg4 ,prev5tion1 h[ev]1 is bett] ?an cure1 & sev]al ma*9es are on ! m>ket fitt$ ) /op motions to arre/ ! action ( ! ma*9e at ! breakage ( a s+le end1 & r$uc+ ! numb] ( fall+ rods to two4 ,"o fav\rite sy/em is to h a small b5t wire1 n unlike a hairp91 b ab\t #a-a_/d in* 9 l5g?1 susp5d$ f ea* ?read & held 9 position by slots across ! frame4 ,?is sy/em is %[n 9 ,plate ,,ii41 ,figs4 #aj & #aa4 ,imm$iately "u ^! p9s are two nip roll]s ,m 7,fig4 #aj71 revolv+ 9 contact1 "o ( !m borne on a movable c5tre1 & atta*$ to an upright lev] ,n4 ,?is is imm$iately above an upright slide ,i1 ! bottom ( :i* is connect$ to "o end ( a lev] c5tr$ on ! drum %aft ( ! frame4 ,at ! o!r end ( ! lev] is a foot bo>d & also ! connection ( a long rod ) heavy balance weight always t5d+ to press ! footbo>d up1 & consequ5tly ! slide d[n4 ,! ma*9e is driv5 by a s+le op5 /rap on ! pulley1 :i*1 h[ev]1 does n actuate ! ma*9e until x is press$ aga9/ ! friction plate4 ,to />t ! ma*9e1 ! footbo>d is press$ d[n1 ! slide consequ5tly lift$ & held 9 position by a hook :i* cat*es on ! framework4 ,by an incl9$ coll> ,j1 on ! c5tre ( ! lev] ,h 7,fig4 #aa71 ! friction pulley & plate are press$ into contact & ! ma*9e is 9 motion4 ,:5 an end breaks1 ! hair-p9 drops betwe5 ! nip roll]s1 press+ ! loose "o away f ! o!r1 !re=e by means ( ! upright lev] already ref]r$ to knock+ (f ! cat* ,h 7,fig4 #aj74 ,z soon z ?is is done ! slide drops1 & ) x ! lev] ,o4 ,! incl9$ coll> relieves ! pressure on ! friction plate & ! ma*9e /ops4 ,! att5dant pieces ! brok5 end :i* is ?us br\ght "u 8 or h] notice4 ,beam w>p+ ma*9es are ( v>i\s sizes1 ! mo/ common be+ = #ejd bobb9s1 ! wid? be+ #i_/h?s1 or #ed in*es betwe5 ! flanges ( beam4 ,o!r wid?s1 ( c\rse1 are 9 use1 f #dd to #ajh in*es4 ,! wa/e ( y>n1 9 ! prep>atory processes1 inde$ 9 all dep>tm5ts ( mill "w1 is extremely important1 & %\ld be kept at z l[ a p]c5tage z possible4 ,at ! w9d+ frame ! total wa/e %\ld be #a to #a-a_/d p] c5t41 v>y+ ) ! c\nt & quality ( y>n1 & ! total wa/e ( w>p y>n ?r\gh\t ! mill %\ld n exce$ #a-a_/b p] c5t4 at ! mo/4 ,= ! purpose ( measur+ ! l5g? ( y>n on ! beam1 ea* w>p+ frame is suppli$ ) a roll] half-a-y>d 9 circumf]5ce1 r\nd :i* ! y>n passes2 on ! end ( ?is roll] is a worm driv+ a worm :eel ,b1 ( #ed tee?2 on ! /ud c>ry+ ,b is a second worm ,c1 driv+ a worm :eel ( #acb tee?4 ,! worm only takes "o too? at ea* revolution1 !re=e a complete revolution ( ! fir/ worm :eel repres5ts a l5g? ( #bg y>ds hav+ pass$ ! measur+ roll]2 ?is is equal to "o too? only on ! second :eel ,b2 !re=e1 a complete revolution ( ! latt] means #cefd y>ds--te*nically call$ a wrap--#a_/b 7#ed #acb7_/7a #a7 #cefd4 ,if a w>p conta9s #d wraps & #g tee?1 x is #ad1dde y>ds long - #d #cefd 7#g #bg74 ,= o!r w>p+ calculations see ,*apt] ,,ix4 ,! faults 9 beams are pr9cipally1 bad1 or no piec+s1 s(t places caus$ by f9e ?reads1 or ends unev5ly di/ribut$ 9 ! combs1 or by crook$ flanges4 ,:]e dhooties & o!r /rip$ clo?s are made1 ! w>p] has to be provid$ ) a %eet %[+ h[ ! col\r$ y>n is 8laid 90 at ! side4 ,?is w be describ$ "u ! head+ ( ,dhooties4 ,:]e possible1 all ! col\r$ y>n is plac$ on "o beam ( ! set1 leav+ ! o!r beams all 8grey10 z ! undy$ y>n is t]m$4 ,9 any case ( w>p+ two c\nts ( y>n on "o beam1 :e!r col\r$ or grey1 all[ance mu/ be made = ! diff]5t diamet]s ( ! ?reads4 ,,sectional ,,w>p+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iii4--,,sectional ,,w>p+ ,,frame4 ,to face pp4 #bh & #bi4 ,:]e a w>p is compos$ ( two or m diff]5t c\nts ( y>n1 or :]e a ball w>p is requir$ )\t hav+ rec\rse to ! old circul> w>p+ mill1 x is usual to use a sectional w>p+ frame--,plate ,,iii4 ,z its "n indicates ! beam is w>p$ 9 sev]al sections call$ 8*eeses10 ( ! usual diamet]1 b only ab\t five in*es 9 wid?4 ,sev]al ( ^! sections are aft]w>ds slid on a b>1 compress$ at ! ends & treat$ 9 ! usual way4 ,if requir$ to be made into a ball1 ! ends are ga!r$ into a loose rope & coil$ 9 a ball+ ma*9e4 ,?is latt] me?od is g5]ally adopt$ 9 ^? sp9n+ mills :]e ! y>n is w>p$ by ! sp9n] & sold 9 ! ball4 ,! sectional mill is a dim9utive beam+ frame ( #djj bobb9s runn+ at a high spe$4 ,! y>n is w>p$ on a squ>e block betwe5 two circul> plates1 & :5 d(f$ is flangeless1 ?us necessitat+ c>eful treatm5t4 ,!re is an int]e/+ piece ( app>atus atta*$ to ^! ma*9es = mak+ all ! *eeses ( a uni=m diamet] :5 a c]ta9 fix$ l5g? has be5 w\nd on1 & ! increase ( diamet] is regulat$ automatically by ! increm5t ( l5g?4 ,! advantage ( ?is is obvi\s :5 us+ two c\nts1 say #cj's & #dj's1 ! w>p 9 ea* case be+1 say1 #abjj y>ds long4 ,if ! diamet] ( w>p 7 n regulat$ 9 any way1 & ! same /ra9 plac$ on ! y>n1 ! #cj's w>p w\ld be ( great] diamet] ?an ! #dj's1 or if ( ! same diamet] ! #dj's w\ld be s(t]4 ,to obviate ?is a /&>d *eese is made2 & 9 mak+ x1 ! att5dant releases ! sett+ lev]1 & all[s ! /ud to move freely 9 ! v]tical slot4 ,) x is also releas$ ! scale lev]1 & ! o!r p>ts :i* control ! press]4 ,a requir$ l5g? ( w>p is w\nd on ! section block1 say ! l5g? ( a cut1 :i* is indicat$ by ! measur+ roll]1 & ! movem5t ?us made by ! press] is %[n by ! movem5t ( ! /ud 9 ! v]tical slot4 ,! h&-:eel is !n turn$ until ! /ud has return$ to its =m] position opposite ! recess 9 ! back ( ! slot4 ,! position ( ! nut is !n not$ on ! front scale1 & tight5$ up by ! h&le %[n4 ,! sett+ lev] is n[ br\ght =w>d1 & ! /ud resumes its normal position 9 ! recess1 & ! sett+ op]ation complet$4 ,9 ord] t ea* succe$+ section may be ! exact size & l5g? ( its pr$ecessor1 ! only att5tion necess>y by ! w>p] is to see t ! revolution indicator po9ts to ! same figures4 ,?us1 :5 all are run (f toge!r1 _! sizes dim9i% at an equal rate4 ,?is ma*9e is tak+ ! place ( ! w>p+ mill 9 ! cotton trade1 especially = col\r$ "w4 ,,ball ,,w>p+ ,,on ,,! ,,w>p+ ,,mill4 ,be=e beam w>p+ 0 inv5t$1 ball w>p+ 0 ! sy/em commonly employ$ 9 ! prep>ation ( y>n = siz+4 ,?is is a some:at clumsy me?od1 & s f> z ! cotton trade is conc]n$ has be5 sup]s$$ by a mod]n sy/em1 except+ 9 "o or two cotton manufactur+ di/ricts situat$ on ! bord]s ( ,lanca%ire & ,york%ire1 & = c]ta9 classes ( goods 9 ,bolton4 ,a brief ref]5ce to x w n be out ( place !n1 al?\gh1 probably1 ! subject may int]e/ few read]s r ?an _m4 ,! w>p+ mill consi/s ( a creel = bobb9s1 & a l>ge circul> frame4 ,^! are ( diff]5t sizes1 a common circumf]5ce be+ ab\t #ah y>ds4 ,?is framework1 or reel1 is ab\t #aj feet high1 & ?us =ms a some:at ext5sive cyl9d]4 ,ab\t #ejj bobb9s 7:i* are w\nd f ! cop 9 ! ord9>y mann]7 are plac$ 9 ! creel & ! ends f ea* are ga!r$ toge!r midway betwe5 ! reel & ! creel1 at :at is t]m$ ! heck box4 ,?is slides v]tically betwe5 two po/s1 & has = its object ! correct guidance ( ! y>n to ! reel & also ! keep+ ( ! lease4 ,! latt] t]m w be und]/ood by all connect$ ) weav+ z be+ ! sep>ation ( ! ?reads alt]nately1 an arrangem5t :i* is us$ to enable ! position ( ! ends be+ easily f\nd 9 succe$+ processes4 ,suppos+ !re are #ejd ends 9 ! creel1 ^! w\ld pass ?r\gh ! heck box1 & =m+ a loose rope be atta*$ to ! top ( ! mill4 ,?is revolves1 & z by suitable me*anism ! heck desc5ds1 ! w>p is coil$ r\nd ! cyl9d] spirally1 mak+ 9 all sev]al hundr$ y>ds1 say #cej4 ,:5 ! bottom ( ! mill is rea*$ ! direction ( revolution is rev]s$1 & a second lay] w\nd ^u ! fir/ "o1 & a ?ird lay] on ! second1 ?us a w>p ( 7#c #ejd7 #aeab ends is made #cej y>ds 9 l5g?4 ,( c\rse1 ! dim5sions ( ! w>p may be v>i$ ei!r 9 l5g? or numb] ( ends4 ,! w>p is n[ unw\nd f ! mill & coil$ 9 ! =m ( a l>ge ball4 ,9 di/ricts :]e ball-w>p+ is /ill us$1 ! manufactur] is n usually 8 own siz]1 & ! w>p1 !re=e1 is n[ remov$ to a siz]'s e/abli%m5t1 :]e1 aft] be+ weight$ to ! requir$ ext5t1 x is coil$ into ball =m aga9 & return$4 ,9 ! few places :]e ball-w>p+ is /ill us$ ! w>p+ mill j describ$ has be5 sup]s$$ by ! sectional w>p+ frame1 z ! ends are kept /raight]1 & a great] l5g? run ?r\gh 9 ! same "t4 ,! unev5 l5g?s 9 ! old ball-w>p+ mill1 caus$ by ! outside lay]s be+ long] ?an ! inn] ones1 are also obviat$4 ,illu/ration3 ,decoration ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,,siz+ ,,mat]ials1 ,,mix+1 ,,& ,,ma*9]y4 ,9 a weav+ mill !re is no m important process ?an siz+1 & on its satisfactory managem5t dep5ds ! quality & quantity ( "w turn$ (f1 & probably ! success ( ! conc]n4 ,?is is exemplifi$ by ! anxiety ( a manufactur] to get hold ( ^? recipes well kn[n z obta9+ good results4 ,! sale ( a %irt+1 dome/ic1 drill1 or heavily siz$ clo?1 absolutely dep5ds on ! satisfactory siz+1 :il/ ! co/ ( mak+ x is regulat$ by ! production ( ! looms4 ,?is has be5 kn[n 9 _m in/ances to v>y #bs4 p] loom p] week1 9 ! use ( a good mix+ & a bad "o4 ,cotton w>p w n weave well )\t ! previ\s application ( "s /r5g!n+ sub/ance4 ,9 ! loom ! t5sion on ! ?reads is great1 & :il/ di/5d$--& !re=e 9 ! mo/ fav\rable condition = be+ *af$--! healds ) alt]nate v]tical motion1 & ! re$ ) reciprocat+ horizontal motion1 rub ! ?reads s sev]ely z to fray !m to pieces1 unless siz$4 ,?is po9t 0 recognis$ & c\nt]act$1 ev5 9 ! h& loom days1 z m5tion$ 9 ,*apt] ,i4 ,9 siz+1 ! objects are to press into ! ?read a mixture ( suitable +r$i5ts1 s z to /r5g!n ! y>n1 smoo!n x1 & lay ! fibres :i* project f ! surface ( ! ?read1 ?us increas+ ! /r5g?1 & at ! same "t r$uc+ ! am\nt ( fluff at weav+2 also to give to ! y>n & clo? ! requisite appe>ance ( t\ghness1 /r5g? or body1 kn[n te*nically z ! 8feel40 ,x is 9 ! siz+ t ! 8bo>dy10 8lea!ry10 8clo?y0 feels or grip are produc$4 ,ano!r v important object ( ?is process is ! introduction into l[ classes ( clo? ( an additional weight ( =eign sub/ances4 ,we h n "h to deal ) ! debat$ & debateable po9t ( its hone/y or o!rwise1 b h[ ! object may be/ be atta9$2 s long z heavily siz$ pieces w be b\ght1 s long w !y be made1 & no blame c1 at all ev5ts1 be atta*$ to ! manufactur]4 ,he pr(its n by ! weight1 unless unscrupul\s1 = ! price obta9$ = ! piece ( clo? is n bas$ on ! total weight1 b on ! am\nt ( cotton conta9$ 9 x4 ,frequ5tly ! /ate ( ! m>ket all[s a great] pr(it out ( pure siz$ goods4 ,! p]c5tage ( size put on cotton goods is calculat$ accord+ to ! increase ( weight on ! w>p only4 ,?us if ! w>p 9 a piece ( clo? be compos$ ( #ajlbs4 ( cotton cov]$ ) #dlbs4 ( size1 ! w>p w h be5 siz$ to ! ext5t ( #dj p] c5t4 ,! am\nt ( size on cotton w>ps v>ies f #c to #bjj p] c5t4 ,9 ^? classes ( goods :i* are int5d$ = dye+ or blea*+1 & :i* are g5]ally sold by ! c\nts ( y>n1 x is obvi\sly n wise to add =eign matt] to be wa%$ out aga91 b 9 ^? export$ goods :i* h to be made ( a fix$ weight1 or c]ta9 feel1 heavy siz+ is adopt$4 ,9 ! *apt] treat+ ( clo?s1 full] in=mation on ?is po9t is giv54 ,up to #bj p] c5t4 are t]m$ light siz$ goods1 f ?is to #ej p] c5t4 m$ium1 & above #ej p] c5t4 heavily siz$4 ,,y>n ,,= ,,w>ps4 ,! selection ( suitable y>n is obvi\sly important4 ,w>p y>n is g5]ally /rong] ?an weft1 & ! h>dness is obta9$ by extra twi/+ ( ! ?read3 ow+ to ?is peculi>ity1 w>p y>n is g5]ally call$ 8twi/40 ,= heavy siz+ purposes1 a s(t spun twi/ is advisable1 & "o made out ( ! h>d] & wiry /apl$ cottons4 ,brazilian is ( ?is "*1 & is (t5 mix$ ) ,am]ican = 8%irt+0 w>ps4 ,! spongy & size-absorb5t prop]ties are obta9$ at ! exp5se ( ! /r5g? ( ! y>n1 & !re=e a good siz+ twi/ (t5 w9ds badly4 ,! col\r ( ! w>p y>n is n important1 & !re=e :it] cottons are (t5 res]v$ = weft4 ,f9e twi/s are spun out ( long] & f9] cottons =m+ a close spun ?read1 :i* is us$ = bett] classes ( clo? lightly siz$4 ,/r5g? & ela/icity are great advantages 9 twi/1 & ^! prop]ties %\ld be obta9$ & pres]v$ = ! la/ process ( weav+4 ,,siz+ ,,mat]ials4 ,_m po9ts di/+ui% a good size-mix+ f a bad "o1 & ! lead+ qualifications = a suitable "o are adhesive prop]ties--x is no use siz+ w>ps if ! sub/ance falls (f at ! loom--good col\r1 & uni=m consi/5cy4 ,mealy clo? is (t5 produc$ by lumpy size4 ,y>n1 ev5 ) a heavy coat ( size1 %\ld rema9 t5aci\s1 pliable & smoo?4 ,! numb] & v>iety ( siz+ sub/ances r5d] x impossible to adequately describe ! prop]ties & use ( ea*4 ,m5tion is only made ( ^? ( greate/ use & importance2 yet ! li/ is suffici5tly long4 ,!y may be divid$ into f\r classes--^? = =m+ ! basis or body ( ! mix+ or adhesive sub/ances1 ^? = r5d]+ ! dri$ size pliable1 weight-giv+ sub/ances1 & antiseptics4 ,9 ! adhesive sub/ances1 fl\r is ( fir/ importance = m$ium & heavy siz+4 ,?is is manufactur$ by gr9d+ a portion ( ! :eat gra91 & ! qualities us$ 9 siz+ are ( ! bett] sort1 fully equal to ^? us$ = bread-mak+4 ,= giv+ body & adhesiv5ess to ! size1 fl\r is valu$1 b is f\nd a r exp5sive sub/ance1 & r incl9$ to mildew4 ,to remove ?is latt] disadvantage1 & also to r5d] fl\r m suitable = ! purpose = :i* x is int5d$1 mo/ manufactur]s /eep x 9 wat] = p]iods v>y+ f ?ree days to z _m mon?s4 ,practical m5 & siz+ speciali/s g5]ally agree1 h[ev]1 t f two to ?ree weeks is ! be/ l5g? ( "t = f]m5tation4 ,on judg+ ! quality ( fl\r1 comp>isons ( col\r & /iffness aft] boil+ are made2 9 ! latt] case equal quantities ( ea* sample %\ld be tak5 & treat$ simil>ly1 bo? z to am\nt ( wat] tak5 & "t all[$ = boil+4 ,! be/ te/1 h[ev]1 & "o t applies to all siz+ sub/ances1 is :e!r x 8goes f>0 or n 9 actual use4 ,f>9a is ! gr\nd />* ( ! potato1 & l>gely us$ 9 light siz+ on acc\nt ( its *eapness & conv5i5ce = mix+4 ,x requires ! use ( a s(t5] ) x1 g5]ally tall[ or wax1 to c\nt]act a h>%ness :i* x gives to ! twi/ :5 us$ alone4 ,two o!r vegetable sub/ances--sago & rice fl\rs--are us$ = v light siz+1 especially = f9e re$s or col\r$ "w4 ,s(t5]s4--,unless "s +r$i5t ) a m or less greasy nature be mix$ ) ! above sub/ances 9 suffici5t quantities1 ! w>p is s brittle & h>% z to break frequ5tly 9 ! loom4 ,! sub/ance mo/ frequ5tly us$ is tall[ 7ref9$ animal fats74 ,?is is some:at exp5sive1 yet its s(t5+ prop]ties 9 heavy siz+ are (t5 introduc$ into ! mix+4 ,! quantity ( tall[ to ea* bag ( fl\r or clay v>ies accord+ to ! quantity ( o!r s(t5]s us$4 ,9 us+ tall[ c>e mu/ be tak5 to obta9 x h>d & free f grit2 mu* we> ( clacks & rams may be attribut$ to gritty matt] 9 ?is & o!r +r$i5ts1 especially 9 *9a clay4 ,wax is a s(t5] us$ = light siz+ ) f>9a4 ,x is ( two k9ds3 ,japan wax1 a vegetable sub/ance1 ( r yell[ col\r1 & p>aff9 wax1 cle> & semi-transp>5t1 obta9$ f m9]al oils4 ,a high melt+ po9t ( wax is a great desid]atum1 to ensure ! mixture h>d5+ ?or\ghly on ! w>p--#aaj is consid]$ a fair temp]ature = wax to be> be=e melt+4 ,= s(tness1 ca/or oil & glyc]9e are occasionally adopt$1 z is also ,iri% moss4 ,soap4--,a mixture ( animal & m9]al sub/ances is n g5]ally us$1 al?\gh a good s(t5]1 its fro?y nature :5 boil+ r5d]+ x difficult to deal )4 ,soap & *loride ( magnesium 7s call$ anti47 %\ld n be us$ toge!r1 z _! action on ea* o!r t5ds to make ! size lumpy4 ,"o important prop]ty ( soap1 or r alkali conta9$ 9 x1 is t x kills any acid develop$ 9 ! mix+4 ,soda has a simil> & /rong] t5d5cy4 ,*loride ( magnesium1 muriate or *loride ( z9c h s(t5+ prop]ties1 b ^? sub/ances w be m fully m5tion$ 9 ! next gr\p4 ,weight-giv+ ,mat]ial4--,next to fl\r no sub/ance ent]s into heavy mix+s 9 su* quantity z *9a clay4 ,?is is a :ite e>?y matt] f\nd 9 ,devon & ,cornwall4 ,aft] hav+ all /ony sub/ances wa%$ out x is dri$ & pack$ 9 bags = %ipm5t to ,runcorn & o!r small ports 9 ! neighb\rhood ( cotton manufactur+ di/ricts4 ,9 select+ good qualities1 col\r & smoo?ness %\ld be borne 9 m9d4 ,to use ?is mat]ial to advantage a good k ( o!r mat]ials is requir$1 s t su* +r$i5ts may be us$ ) clay z to keep ! size on ! y>n at ! loom4 ,:5 clay is boil+ x is some:at dang]\s to lift up ! lid ( ! boil+ beck1 ?is sub/ance hav+ an unpleasant prop]ty ( spurt+ up1 possibly on ! face or h&s ( an att5dant4 ,metal size is t conta9+ ! *lorides ( ! metals1 magnesium & z9c4 ,*loride ( magnesium1 a m9]al salt obta9$ 9 ,g]many1 is valu$ z a weight+ & s(t5+ comp\nd4 ,x has ! peculi> prop]ty ( attract+ moi/ure to itself1 always caus+ clo? or any sub/ance conta9+ x to feel damp4 ,?is sub/ance is melt$ out ( its solid =m into a liquid by ! application ( /eam1 & is aft]w>ds /or$ 9 a lead-l9$ tank4 ,muriate ( z9c1 or *loride ( z9c1 is a sub/ance ( importance = weight+1 & is also valuable 9 *eck+ ! gr[? ( mildew4 ,mildew1 z may be se5 "u a microscope1 is a species ( fungus--a vegetable gr[+ "u c]ta9 conditions fav\rable to its developm5t4 ,if w>p or clo? is siz$ or f9i%$ damp1 !n /or$ 9 a dry room = a consid]able "t1 mildew may be expect$1 unless antiseptics h be5 us$4 ,an antiseptic is a sub/ance t5d+ to de/roy vegetable life1 & ( antiseptics muriate ( z9c & c>bolic acid are ! mo/ suitable = siz+ purposes4 ,z *loride ( magnesium does n prev5t mildew1 inde$1 its use be+ r fav\rable to ! developm5t ( t evil1 ! "n anti1 or antiseptic1 usually giv5 to x is mislead+4 ,x is v important t a manufactur] %\ld take e precaution to prev5t mildew by ! use ( real antiseptics1 especially :5 us+ su* siz+ mat]ials z fl\r1 tall[1 or any o!r :i* readily mildews4 ,x may be m5tion$ t ! mak] ( ! clo? is liable = any damage done 9 ?is respect1 if ! cause c be f\nd 9 defective siz+1 ev5 ?\gh ! gr[? may n be se5 until ! goods h arriv$ abroad4 ,! be=e-m5tion$ *lorides are greatly dep5d5t on ! wea!r1 & also on ! situation ( a %$1 = _! good weav+ prop]ties4 ,9 case ( ea/ w9ds1 extremely dry or cold atmosph]ic conditions1 or 9 a dry %$ twi/ siz$ ) magnesium1 z9c or *9a clay1 is r5d]$ brittle fir/4 ,num]\s o!r mat]ials are us$ by a few manufactur]s1 b !y d n require an ext5d$ notice4 ,divid+ !m into ! f\r classes previ\sly m5tion$1 we may ref] to3--#a/1 maize1 />*1 tapioca1 dextr91 & gum2 #bnd1 oils1 compositions1 sp]maceti1 curd soap1 ,iri% moss1 cocoanut oil2 #crd1 ,fr5* *alk1 ,epsom salts2 :il/ soda is us$ to prev5t iron-m\ld1 & blue to take away a yell[ t+e f ! size mix+4 ,,size ,,mix+4 ,mix+ is p]=m$ 9 becks--wood5 tanks fitt$ ) da%]s1 con/antly revolv+ & /irr+ ! mixture4 ,to ea* beck pumps are atta*$ s z to =ce ! size to ano!r beck to complete ! mix+ process2 or1 if ! mix+ is ready = use1 to pump x to ! size box ( ! sla%] frame4 ,a set ( becks g5]ally consi/s ( f\r--two ab\t #d by #h feet1 & two ea* #d feet squ>e1 :ile = heavy siz+ a copp] or copp]-l9$ boil+ pan is us$4 ,?is latt] is fix$ at a high] level ?an ! becks = conv5i5ce 9 transf]r+ ! boil$ size to ! becks4 ,consid]+ t a mix+ made f a fix$ quantity ( c]ta9 +r$i5ts is n g5]ally us$ = p]c5tages rang+ m ?an #ae p] c5t41 & t diff]5t mix+s are requir$ all ! way up to #aej or #bjj p] c5t41 :il/ at ! same "t n m ?an two or ?ree manufactur]s may use exactly simil> mix+s ev5 = ! same degree ( weight+1 x w readily be se5 t ! mix+s employ$ 9 ! cotton trade are innum]able4 ,?is diff]5ce has be5 caus$ by ! jeal\s c>e tak5 by a siz] to pres]ve to himself ! recipe ( 8 own mix+1 & rightly s4 ,?us1 new mix+s h _h to be adopt$ by new firms1 ! correct quantity ( ea* +r$i5t hav+ to be fix$ by repeat$ exp]im5ts2 & z ! true prop]ties ( ea* sub/ance h n be51 & are n yet1 well und]/ood among manufactur]s accord+ to sci5tific inve/igation1 ! diff]5ces ( op9ion1 & consequ5t diff]5ces ( recipes1 are v great4 ,nor is x to ! +r$i5ts t ^! op9ions are conf9$1 b to ! ord] ( putt+ ea* into ! beck1 ! times ( f]m5t+ & boil+1 & _m o!r details4 ,x is some:at difficult to satisfactorily det]m9e be=eh& ! am\nt ( weight :i* c be obta9$ f a mix+4 ,an in/rum5t1 really a hydromet]1 b (t51 f ! "n ( its inv5tor1 dubb$ a 8,twaddle10 is sometimes us$2 b unless a fix$ temp]ature is always tak51 ^! in/rum5ts are n reliable1 z a mix+ twaddles diff]5tly at diff]5t heats4 ,inde$1 f ! v>y+ results obta9$1 a twaddle _c be said to be ( mu* practical use 9 siz+4 ,a bett] sy/em1 p]haps1 is to take ! proportion ( solid or semi-solid matt]s 9 a mix+ z aga9/ ! weight ( wat]1 & comp>e x ) ! ratio ( ano!r mix+ :i* is kn[n to give a c]ta9 p]c5tage4 ,?us1 if "o mix+ ( #clb4 ( solid matt] to a gallon 7#ajlb47 ( wat] gives #be p] c5t41 !n a mix+ ) #flb4 solids to ! gallon may r\ghly be said to put 9 #ej p] c5t4 ,heavy liquids1 su* z z9c & solution ( magnesium *loride1 w h to be reckon$ p>tially z liquids1 9 consequ5ce ( ! evaporation :i* w take place on dry+ at ! cyl9d]s2 & ! s(t5]s1 f _! inability to reta9 liquids z well z ! />*es1 w n be calculat$ z hav+ ! same weight+ p[]4 ,magnesium may be reckon$ z hav+ "o-?ird ( its weight 9 solids1 & z9c at "o-half4 ,= ,light ,siz+4--,tak+ a pure size1 say #h to #aj p] c5t41 f>9a & wax or tall[ is g5]ally us$ z be+ ! *eape/1 & at ! same "t mo/ suitable mix+4 ,! +r$i5ts are g5]ally comb9$ 9 ! same beck t !y are boil$ 92 = #aj p] c5t4 ! foll[+ may be us$3 #bjjlb4 f>9a1 #bjlb4 wax1 #bjj gallons wat]4 ,by ! addition ( clay1 ! same may be made s]viceable up to #be p] c5t4 ,= ,m$ium ,siz+1 say #ej p] c5t4--,fl\r1 clay s(t5] & *lorides are us$--say fl\r #dhjlb41 clay #bbdlb41 tall[ #fjlb41 *loride ( magnesium 7s-call$ anti7 #e gallons1 z9c #b gallons1 soda #hlb41 wat] #aej gallons 9 all4 ,x is mix$ z describ$ = #ajj p] c5t4 ,= #ajj p] c5t4--#alb4 ( size = #alb4 ( w>p4 ,simil> +r$i5ts are us$1 b diff]5t proportions4 ,fl\r #efjlb41 clay #efjlb41 tall[ #acjlb4 7or o!r s(t5]71 *loride ( magnesium #bj gallons1 *loride ( z9c #aj gallons1 soda #ajlb41 & blue4 ,! fl\r is /eep$ alone = ?ree weeks1 at ! end ( :i* "t ! z9c is add$ to x ) soda & boil$1 !n ! o!r +r$i5ts1 :i* _h be5 previ\sly heat$ 9 ! boil+ pan1 are l[]$ into ! fl\r & ! :ole boil$ toge!r4 ,= #aej p] c5t4 put /ill m clay & magnesium to ! same quantity ( o!r sub/ances1 add+ "s specially prep>$ s(t5+ grease1 or adhesive size mixture4 ,! mix+ ( size requires con/ant c>e & sup]vision2 = v>iations 9 ! quality ( mat]ials1 9 ! wea!r1 or 9 "t ( /orage or /eepage necessitate *anges 9 ! proportions ( +r$i5ts to obta9 correct & unv>y+ weights4 ,,siz+ ,,ma*9]y4 ,! sla%] is ! ma*9e g5]ally us$ = apply+ ! size to ! y>n2 ! usual "n = ! process is tap+1 a ^w d]iv$ f ! old tape frame 9 use #cj ye>s ago1 & h&$ d[n to its successor1 ! sla%]4 ,"o siz+ frame is requir$ = #cjj looms1 ! wid? ( ! frame be+ adapt$ to ! size ( beam requir$ = ! loom2 ?is is a few in*es wid] ?an ! clo?4 ,a common size is a #i_/h2 ?is makes w>ps #ed in*es wide betwe5 ! flanges1 ! dry+ cyl9d] face be+ #fj in*es wide2 a #f_/d is #fj in*es beam & #ff in*es on face2 an #h_/d #gh in*es & #hd in*es respectively4 ,a siz+ frame is ( great l5g?1 & 9 ?ree portions--at ! back ! creel1 9 ! c5tre ! dry+1 & 9 front ! head/ock4 7,see ,plate ,,iv47 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iv4--,,sla%] ,,siz+ ,,ma*9e4 ,to face p4 #dj4 ,suppos+ a w>p is requir$ ( #bdhj ends--?ree beams1 ea* #ejd1 w be tak5 toge!r ) two ( #dhd ea*2 ^! are plac$ 9 ! creel 9 two levels1 & ! n>r[] ones are plac$ at ! back4 ,if !y 7 9 front ( ! broad] ones ! %eet ( w>p w\ld ov]hang ! n>r[ beams4 ,! ends are ga!r$ 9 "o %eet1 ! lay]s f ! h9d] beams pass+ ov] ! top beams & "u ! bottom ones1 all leav+ ! creel aft] pass+ "u ! =emo/ beam & travell+ into ! s[ box4 ,two contigu\s boxes or tr\ghs are us$ = hold+ ! size--! "o f>!r f ! creel1 call$ ! size box1 receiv+ ! mixture directly f ! beck1 a regulat+ valve be+ fix$ on ! inlet pipe to prev5t ! box becom+ too full4 ,! s[ box is ! l>g] "o1 & receives ! size f an ap]ture 9 ! bottom ( ! size box1 z well z f a sep>ate pipe4 ,9 ! bottom ( ! s[ box is fix$ a boil+ pipe ( elliptical =m1 p]=at$ ) small holes1 ?r\gh :i* /eam is =c$ into ! size1 caus+ x to boil1 & ?us always be 9 ! fitte/ /ate = application to ! y>n4 ,at ab\t half ! height ( ! box two pairs ( roll]s are fix$1 ! back pair hav+ ! bottom "o ( wood1 & ! top "o ( iron1 cov]$ ) flannel & clo?2 ! front bottom roll]1 or f9i%]1 is ( copp]1 hav+ re/+ on x a heavy iron "o1 likewise cov]$ ) sev]al lay]s ( flannel & two ( cotton clo?4 ,on ! firm & ev5 surface ( ^! roll]s dep5ds1 to a great ext5t1 ! quality ( ! siz+4 ,betwe5 ! wood5 roll] & ! end ( ! box ne>e/ ! creel is a copp] imm]sion roll]1 its use be+ to l[] or raise ! w>p 9 ! size by means ( a rack & p9ion4 ,! w>p ends com+ up f ! beams pass "u ! imm]sion roll]1 ?us be+ soak$ "u ! surface ( ! boil+ size1 !nce betwe5 ! fir/ & second pairs ( roll]s--! object ( ^! be+ to press out all sup]flu\s size & imb$ into ! ?read t :i* is requir$4 ,imm]s+ ! ?read deeply is advantage\s = heavy siz+1 al?\gh1 by simply dipp+ x1 ! fluid only atta*es itself to ! outside ( ! ?read4 ,bett] results c\ld be obta9$ by press+ ! y>n :il/ "u ! surface4 ,an example ( ! holl[ india-rubb] ball illu/rates ?is4 ,if a punctur$ or slit ball be imm]s$ 9 wat]1 )\t pressure1 little or no fluid ent]s x2 b if1 :il/ "u1 x is squeez$1 ! air is expell$1 &1 on exp&+1 ! surr\nd+ wat] ent]s1 fill+ ! cavity4 ,simil> results c be obta9$ by expell+ ! air f ! int]/ices ( ! y>n :il/ "u ! size1 & pat5ts h be5 tak5 out = suitable app>atus4 ,?is po9t is wor?y ! att5tion ( ma*9i/s4 ,unless well boil$1 size reta9s a granul> nature1 caus+ faulty clo?2 to obviate ?is1 _m ma*9i/s ins]t betwe5 ! size beck & ! siz+ frame an extra boil+ app>atus1 s arrang$ by ! int]v5tion ( pipes to boil ! size "u pressure1 imp++ /eam aga9/ ! p>ticles ( size z !y ent] ! box1 ?us break+ ! globules4 ,aft] boil+ ?us1 ! size ent]s ! box 9 ! ord9>y way4 ,to lay ! fibres on ! y>n a few siz]s h rec\rse to revolv+ bru%es act+ on ! ?read directly aft] pass+ ! f9i%] roll]4 ,^! revolve ab\t #gjj revolutions p] m9ute1 consid]ably fa/] ?an ! w>p spe$4 ,!y are consid]$ advisable = f9e re$s & fancy goods4 ,adv]t+ to ! process ( siz+ ! w>p1 we come n[ to ! dry+2 ?is is done by means ( two t9 or copp] cyl9d]s ab\t #g feet & #d feet diamet] respectively1 ! l>g] "o be+ ne>] ! front ( ! frame 7see ,plate74 ,/eam at a l[ pressure is admitt$ to ^!1 & bo? are enclos$ 9 a wood5 case4 ,! %eet ( w>p passes ov] ! small] cyl9d] )\t t\*+ x1 & r\nd ! l>g] "o2 leav+ ?is at ! bottom1 ! twi/ is next l$ ov] ! small cyl9d] & passes to ! front ( ! frame "u bo?4 ,?irte5 or f\rte5 y>ds ( w>p are always dry+4 ,al?\gh ! moi/ure has be5 expell$1 ! twi/ is n[ 9 a v hot /ate1 & on its passage into ! head/ock a c\ple ( fans are us$ = cool+ purposes4 ,sy/ems ( dry+ by curr5ts ( air h be5 introduc$1 b seem to take no hold 9 ! cotton indu/ry4 ,x is important t ! surface ( ! dry+ cyl9d]s be kept smoo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,! head/ock ( ! sla%] consi/s ( framework1 hold+ ! rods & re$ necess>y = sep>at+ ! siz$ ?reads1 & ! app>atus = w9d+ ! y>n on ! weav]s' beam4 ,?is latt] op]ation comprises ! driv+ ( ! :ole ma*9e1 z all ! actuat+ p[] is transmitt$ f ! head/ock by ! pull ex]t$ at ! front ( ! ma*9e4 ,by iron rods ! %eet ( w>p is repeat$ horizontally into z _m lay]s z !re are back beams2 !n1 by means ( an exp&+ comb1 ! rods are sep>at$ v]tically2 ?us ea* be+ sund]$ f its fell[s1 no possibility ( 8/ick+0 rema9s4 ,! split rods are %[n 9 ,plate ,,iv4 ,! mo/ effective mode ( w9d+ ! y>n on ! beam is %[n 9 section at ,fig4 #ab4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,p[] is receiv$ by ! ma9 %aft c>ry+ ! cone drum1 & transmitt$ by a /rap cone drum2 ?is 9 turn drives by a p9ion ! :eel fix$ on ! friction roll] 7! l>ge/ ( ! ?ree roll]s at ! upp] "p ( ,fig4 #ab71 :i* is ?us positive driv54 ,x also drives ! beam %aft1 b n positively2 ! only connection betwe5 ! cog :eel ,a1 ,fig4 #ac1 & ! %aft on :i* ,a rides loose1 is by means ( ! friction plates ,l1 betwe5 ,a & ,b1 & ,a & ,c4 ,unless ^! are compress$ s z to clip a felt wa%]1 ! beam is n driv5 at all1 s t x is v easy = ! siz] to regulate ! t5sion at :i* 8 y>n %all be w\nd by mov+ ! weight ,h on ! lev] ,g1 :i* presses ! positive driv5 plates ,b & ,c aga9/ ! friction driv5 plates ,l ,l1 br++ !m into clos] contact & ?us spe$+ ! beam1 consequ5tly tight5+ ! y>n4 ,! friction roll] is a %ade l>g] 9 diamet] ?an ! f9i%+ roll] 9 ! s[ box1 & is connect$ ) x by a long side %aft1 ea* roll] revolv+ at ! same spe$2 ! y>n is consequ5tly kept suffici5tly tight dur+ ! :ole process4 ,9 ! old /yle ( frame1 )\t ! above-m5tion$ friction1 cone drums 7 us$ = regulat+ ! spe$ ( ! w>p4 ,z ! beam increas$ 9 diamet]1 "o revolution meant a great] l5g? ( twi/ w\nd on1 & ! /rap _h to be mov$ along ! cone drums to dim9i% ! numb] ( revolutions ( ! beam p] m9ute1 & ?us keep ! spe$ ( ! %eet ( w>p con/ant4 ,num]\s presses are us$ to get a h>d beam ) a great] numb] ( cuts on x4 ,al?\gh1 :5 extremely h>d1 ! weav+ is m difficult1 ! advantage ( few] gait+s ( beams 9 ! %op1 d(f+s at ! size frame1 & less wa/e is adequate comp5sation4 ,^! presses g5]ally consi/ ( "o or two roll]s re/+ on a /& "u ! beam 9 ! frame4 ,by weight$ lev]s ! /& & roll]s are =c$ upw>ds aga9/ ! beam1 & keep x h>d :il/ w9d+4 ,figs4 #ad & #ae repres5t plan & section ( ?is press]4 ,! duties ( ! sla%]1 or1 z he is m frequ5tly call$1 ! tap]1 are to keep ! size ( prop] boil & d5sity1 s z to obta9 a con/ant weight ( cut1 to keep ! twi/ piec$1 & d(f ! beams :5 fill$4 ,9 "s op]ations x is necess>y to /op ! frame = a few m9utes1 & al?\gh ! /opp+ h&le is connect$ ) ! cyl9d] /eam pipe to prev5t fur!r admission ( /eam to ! cyl9d]s1 ^! rema9 s hot z to br[n ! twi/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,,sl[ ,,motion4 ,a sl[ motion is usually fix$ on new frames1 & z w be se5 f ,fig4 #af1 x is a simple & effective me?od = prev5t+ br[n or h>d places 9 ! w>p by runn+ ! ma*9e v sl[ly in/ead ( /opp+ x completely4 ,a ?9 pulley rides on a coll> on ! ma9 %aft ( ! frame1 & by ! ge>+ %[n 7,fig4 #af7 drives ! driv5 cone f> sl[] ?an its usual spe$4 ,obvi\sly ! fa/ & sl[ motions c\ld n be bo? connect$ ) ! driv5 cone by fix$ ge>+1 & consequ5tly1 to enable ! sl[ motion to be put 9 ge> only aft] ! fa/ spe$ is out ( action1 ! %aft only drives a plate c>ry+ a rat*et pawl4 ,! rat*et :eel is on ! driv5 cone %aft1 & z ! pawl only ov]takes ! :eel :5 ! latt] is almo/ /opp$1 ! desir$ end is obta9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,,m>k+ ,,motion4 ,to enable ! weav] to f9i% ! piece :5 a requir$ l5g? has be5 wov5 ! w>p is m>k$ at ! siz+ frame at a c]ta9 l5g?4 ,?is is g5]ally done = pla9 goods by means ( a measur+ roll] #add in*es 9 circumf]5ce1 r\nd :i* ! twi/ passes4 ,on ! end ( ?is is a t9 roll] :eel driv+ a *ange :eel or /ud :eel4 ,by means ( a worm on ! same /ud ! motion is transf]r$ to a bell :eel ( #de tee?1 :i* drives a m>k+ cam s arrang$ z to gradually lift & sudd5ly drop a hamm]1 :i* smits ! w>p aga9/ a block soak$ 9 "s col\r+ matt]4 ,to get ! :eels = a c]ta9 l5g?1 say ! /ud :eel1 multiply ! l5g? ( m>k desir$ 9 in*es by t9 roll] :eel1 & divide by ! bell :eel & ! circumf]5ce ( t9 roll]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ag4--;,,dhootie ,,m>k]4 ,to get ! t9 roll] :eel1 multiply ! circumf]5ce ( measur+ roll] by bell :eel & by /ud :eel1 divid+ by l5g? ( m>k requir$4 ,to prove ?is ! l5g? ( m>k may be obta9$ f ! :eels1 say /ud :eel #aje & t9 roll] :eel #de4 7#add #de #aje7_/de #aeab in*es1 or #db y>ds4 ,9 m>k+ dhooties1 9 addition to ! smit = ! end ( ! piece1 additional smits h to be made :]e ! head+ = ea* sc>f has to be ins]t$4 ,usually ?is is done by hav+ an additional tra9 ( :eels & an extra m>k]1 call$ a dhootie-m>k]1 to /rike #c1 #d1 or #f1 etc41 times = ! cut-m>k]'s once4 ,9 ,fig4 #ag a special arrangem5t is %[n4 ,! usual :eels are %[n at h1 ! worm i1 ! bell :eel k1 ! bell %aft cut-m>k hamm] m4 ,! o!r :eels & ! m>k] n ref] to ! dhootie m>k2 b is fix$ to ! /ud & drives c ) d1 a p9ion on ano!r /ud2 ! :eels e1 f & g complete ! tra91 & on ! same %aft z g a cam o op]ates ! dhootie-m>k]4 ,?is is arrang$ to /rike any numb] ( times = once ( ! cut-m>k]1 regulat$ by ! numb] ( tee? 9 ! *ange :eel f1 #aj tee? 9 :i* give "o m>k to a cut m>k1 #cj give ?ree m>ks to a cut1 #ajj t5 m>ks to a cut1 & s on by some:at simil> sy/ems = high] numb]s4 ,,tape ,,dress+4 ,! tape dress+ ma*9e--! pr$ecessor ( ! sla%]--is /ill us$ 9 ,scotl&1 be+ suit$ to ! light fabrics pr9cipally made !re4 ,! back beams are plac$ 9 a creel at "o level & ! ends pass ?r\gh a re$ at ! back ( ! frame4 ,! %eet is !n imm]s$ 9 size1 & passes betwe5 a pair ( sl[ly revolv+ circul> bru%es1 aft]w>ds be+ dri$ by a fan1 & also on a small cyl9d]4 ,!re is no friction1 & ! y>n is w\nd on ! beam aft] be+ split by ! rods & re$4 ,,ball ,,siz+4 ,only "o sy/em ( siz+ 9 addition to ^? ref]r$ to requires description1 & t is ball siz+1 ! process foll[+ ball w>p+1 describ$ 9 ! previ\s *apt]4 ,! w>ps are uncoil$ f ! ball1 & run into a l>ge vat ( size1 at ! bottom ( :i* ! w>p rema9s "s "t1 pass+ ov] & "u "s eight or t5 roll]s until ?or\ghly soak$4 ,! sup]flu\s size is expell$ by pass+ ! w>p betwe5 roll]s1 :5 x is remov$ to ano!r ma*9e = dry+ purposes4 ,?is has #ab cyl9d]s #b feet 9 diamet]1 & ( consid]able wid?1 heat$ by /eam4 ,betwe5 ^! cyl9d]s ! w>p is flatt5$ & dri$1 aft] :i* x is aga9 ball$ & plac$ 9 a clo? = a %ort "t to become 8mell[$20 ev5 yet x has "o process to und]go--beam+4 ,"h ! w>p is tak51 ! ends sund]$ out & run ov] a frame to ! weav]'s beam4 ,! read] w readily see t ! extra processes ( ball+ aft] w>p+1 & beam+ aft] siz+1 z well z two ma*9es requir$ = siz+1 are suffici5t to expla9 ! fact t ball sy/ems are dy+ out1 & n only = ?is reason1 b also because ( ! unc]ta9ty z to :at ext5t goods c be weight$1 ! p]c5tages be+ v irregul>4 ,! w>ps are (t5 /reaky also1 b ! ?read pres]ves a r\nd] & /rong] =mation ?an at ! sla%] frame4 ,,loom+ ,,& ,,draw+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,! weav]'s beam1 z made at ! siz+ frame1 conta9s f #ejj to #ajjj y>ds ( w>p1 accord+ to ! c\nts ( y>n & numb] ( ends4 ,x is n yet ready = ! loom1 z ! healds & re$ h to be atta*$4 ,if new healds & re$ are us$ ea* end mu/ be drawn ?r\gh an eye ( "o ( ! healds & ?r\gh a d5t 9 ! re$4 ,9 ?is case ! op]ation is p]=m$ by a draw]-91 :o1 ) hooks at "o side ( ! ge>s1 draws ! ends ?r\gh1 :i* are pres5t$ to him by a rea*] at ! opposite side4 ,9 case ( healds hav+ be5 us$ be=e ) simil> draft1 c\nts p] in*1 etc41 a loom] or twi/]-9 is requir$1 :o1 ) an adroit twirl1 pieces ea* end on ! new beam to a correspond+ "o :i* has be5 left 9 ! heald f an old beam4 ,^! m5 are remun]at$ = pla9 "w at s mu* p] #ajjj ends1 ! draw] hav+ m = ! same numb] ( ends4 ,! ord] 9 :i* ! ends are drawn ?r\gh ! healds is mo/ important1 al?\gh = pla9 & simple fancy "w "o sy/em is g5]ally adopt$2 = fanci] clo?s ! diff]5ce ( draft is great1 & regulates to a great ext5t ! k9d ( figure produc$ on ! clo?4 ,^! healds & re$ are requir$ 9 ! loom1 be+ ( great importance ) reg>d to ! prop] int]lac+ & guidance ( ! ends4 ,! healds1 sometimes call$ h$dles or ge>s1 are ( cotton or wor/$1 & are us$ 9 mak+ ! %$ = ! passage ( ! %uttle4 ,! usual =m is a loop1 ti$ ?r\gh :i* is a second loop1 knott$ s z to leave a qu>t]-in* eye4 ,fig4 #ah expla9s ! /ructure4 ,! healds are knit 9 a special ma*9e1 & :5 f9i%$ %[ ! loops t5 in*es deep1 connect$ ) a braid runn+ along ! top & bottom4 ,! eyes are closely or sp>sely arrang$1 accord+ to ! c\nts ( re$ = :i* ! healds are int5d$4 ,/aves are ins]t$ 9 ! top & bottom loops1 & a set ( healds consi/s ( ?ree or m /aves4 ,pla9 c\ld be wov5 by two /aves1 b f\r are almo/ always employ$4 ,! ends ( w>p are drawn ?r\gh ! healds1 "o ?r\gh ea* eye4 ,! me?od ( sep>at+ ! w>p to =m a %$ is app>5t4 ,= example1 suppose a w>p ( #bjjj ends be drawn on f\r healds1 ea* hav+ #ejj eyes1 & two ( ^! healds be rais$ :il/ ! o!r c\ple is depress$1 a %$ ( two equal p>ts w be =m$4 ,metallic healds are be+ introduc$1 we believe1 satisfactorily4 ,! loops & eyes are ( wire1 slid+ on b>s atta*$ to ! /aves 7,fig4 #ai74 ,a set ( healds may be us$ = diff]5t c\nts ( re$s4 ,! re$1 comb or ravel 7,fig4 #bj7 is an arrangem5t ( d5ts--pieces ( flatt5$ or poli%$ wire f\r or five in*es long fix$ betwe5 /rips ( wood by pit*$ b&4 ,! d5ts are clos] or n z ! re$ is f9] or co>s] 9 c\nts4 ,g5]ally1 two ends are drawn ?r\gh ea* split or d5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,decoration ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,,weav+1 ,,pla9 ,,looms1 ,,%$d+1 ,,pick+1 ,,beat+-,,up1 ,,o!r ,,motions1 ,,modifications ,,( ,,loom1 ,,split ,,motions4 ,! la/ process ( manufactur+1 & ! "o 9 :i* all ! prec$+ ones culm9ate1 is weav+4 ,?is has = its object ! comb9ation ( ! w>p & weft y>ns1 int]lac+ "o ) ! o!r 9 su* mann] z to produce a firm texture1 fitt$ = ! v>y+ uses to :i* cotton clo? is adapt$--= w>m?1 = ornam5t1 = trade purposes--= sale4 ,! p[] looms ( ! pres5t day1 z employ$ 9 ! cotton indu/ry1 v>y v little 9 con/ruction 9 ! mo/ widely sep>at$ di/ricts1 unless = v diff]5t classes ( "w1 !n :at modifications are requir$ consi/ ( extra me*anism add$ to our common type--! pla9 loom4 ,,! ,,pla9 ,,loom4 ,! ma*9e requir$ = ! weav+ ( pla9 clo?1 or clo? 9 :i* ea* end ( weft & twi/ is int]wov5 alt]nately & on ! face ( :i* no figure is %[n1 is simple4 ,! w>p y>n is conta9$ on a beam1 ! weft is plac$ 9 a %uttle1 & ! loom consi/s ( ! necess>y framework & me*anism = hold+ ! w>p 9 ! requir$ position1 pass+ ! weft betwe5 alt]nate w>p ?reads4 ,a g5]al view ( ! loom is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ba1 :il/ a detail$ repres5tation is giv5 9 ,fig4 #bb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba4--,,pla9 ,,loom4 7,front ,view47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bb4--,,pla9 ,,loom4 7,back ,view47 ,9 ! process ( weav+ x is necess>y to hold ! w>p some:at tightly1 ea* portion at ! same t5sion1 & to obta9 ?is condition ! clo? is pull$ =w>d by ! tak+-up roll] z x is wov52 b ! w>p is held back by ! friction ( weight$ *a9s or ropes on ! coll>s ( ! beam4 ,! w>p passes upw>ds f ! beam1 ov] ! back re/1 & !nce to ! back ( ! healds2 betwe5 ! back re/ & healds are ! lease rods--a l>ge "o ) a small] rod ne>] ! healds4 ,by means ( ^! rods ! w>p is sep>at$ into equal portions1 two ends pass+ alt]nately ov] or "u ! ?ick rod2 ^? pass+ ov] ! ?ick "o also run "u ! ?9 rod4 ,! rule commonly obs]v$ = f\r healds is to h ! ends pass+ ! fir/ & ! ?ird heald ov] ! ?9 rod1 & ^? drawn ?r\gh ! second & f\r? ov] ! ?ick rod1 & consequ5tly "u ! ?9 "o4 ,! fir/ heald is ! "o ne>e/ ! front ( ! loom2 ! draft is #a1 #c1 #b1 #d1 & applies to pla9 clo?1 al?\gh ! fir/ & second healds are work$ z "o1 & ! ?ird & f\r? toge!r4 ,respect+ ! two ends :i* pass toge!r at ! lease rods1 ! "o ?r\gh ! front heald is to ! left ( ! "o ?r\gh ! ?ird heald2 :il/ ) ! o!r c\ples1 ! end ?r\gh ! m =w>d heald is to ! left ( ! o!r4 ,! weav]1 be>+ ^! rules 9 m9d1 c ?us f9d ! place ( any brok5 end4 ,! healds are susp5d$ on ea* side ( ! heald roll] ,a by means ( /raps & cords1 :i* are %[n4 ,! portion ( ! heald roll] support+ ! back healds is l>g] ?an = ! front ones2 ?is is to make ! =m] :5 lift$ make ! %$ at ! same angle z ! front healds4 ,bel[ are se5 ! crank %aft ,b1 & ! tappet %aft ,c1 driv5 f x at exactly half ! spe$4 ,! latt] %aft be>s ! pick+ plates ,h & %$d+ tappets ,k4 ,! slay1 support$ by ! slay-sword#b ,d on ! rock+ %aft is %[n also4 ,x c>ries ! re$ at ,e1 held 9 position by ! slay-cap ,f4 ,! back re/ at ,g1 ov] :i* ! w>p passes1 & ! weight lev]s & driv+ pulleys are also noticeable p>ts4 ,! clo? is wov5 pick by pick1 & ! :ole action ( ! loom may be compris$ 9 repetitions ( ! op]ations cont+5t on putt+ 9 "o pick4 ,suppos+ ! w>p to be 9 position & ! :ole ma*9e 9 weav+ ord]1 ! fir/ movem5t is to op5 ! w>p into two p>ts1 & is call$ %$d+2 ! second is to pass ! %uttle ?r\gh ! op5+ ?us made1 call$ pick+2 & ?irdly1 to beat up ! weft close to ! pick la/ put 9--te*nically1 to ! fell ( ! clo?4 ,9 addition to ^!1 auxili>y movem5ts are tak+ place = w9d+ on ! wov5 clo?1 keep+ x di/5d$1 & *eck+ ! motion ( ! loom 9 case ( accid5t4 #b ,9 addition to ! ref]5ces giv5 9 ! text1 ea* article is %[n on ,plate ,v4 ,,sundry ,,fitt+s ,,= ,,loom4--,,fig4 #ba4 ,! illu/rations on ! opposite page repres5t a numb] ( ! v>i\s ca/-iron p>ts :i* =m a loom4 #a ,back ,be>] #b ,sw+ ,rail #c ,brake #d ,brake1 ) ,loose ,clip #e ,/op = ,bobb] ,wire #f ,gib = ,crank ,arm #g ,cott] = ,crank ,arm #h ,%ort ,/rap = ,crank ,arm #i ,/ep = ,p9 = ,slaysword #aj ,block = ,crank ,arm #aa ,brass ,/eps = ,crank ,arm #ab ,long ,/rap = ,crank ,arm #ac ,bracket = #b-rod ,vibrator #ad ,ecc5tric = ,vibrator #ae ,crank ,:eel #af ,sw+ ,rail ,brackets #ag ,c\nt] ,twill ,:eel #ah ,l>ge ,twill ,:eel #ai ,small ,twill ,:eel #bj #b by #a ,leaf ,tappet #ba #b by #b ,leaf ,tappet #bb ,l>ge ,tappet #bc ,pla9 ,tappet = ,twills #bd ,twill ,b[l #be ,l>ge ,heald ,boss #bf ,small ,heald ,boss #bg ,radius ,bracket #bh ,tappet ,:eel #bi ,slay ,sword = ,loose ,re$ #cj ,slay ,sword = ,loose ,re$ #cb ,slay ,sword = ,fa/ ,re$ #cc ,pulley #cd ,/rap ,=k ,bracket #ce ,/rap ,=k ,bracket #cf ,brake ,/ud & ,bracket #cg ,tak+-up ,cat* ,bracket #ch ,brake ,lev] #ci ,frog ,plate #dj ,frog = ,opposite ,side #da ,/rap ,=k ,bracket #db ,bu% = ,old-make ( ,looms #dc ,b9d] ,boss = ,twill ,%aft #dd ,dollhead ,bracket = ,twills #de #b by #b ,leaf ,dollhead #df ,small ,tappet #dg ,pla9 ,treadle ,bracket #dh ,pla9 ,treadle ,grate #di ,dollhead = #b by #a ,twills #ej ,pla9 ,dollhead #ea ,*ange ,:eel #eb ,rack ,:eel #ec ,/rap ,=k ,bracket #ed ,frog 7spr+ h&le side7 #ee ,pick+ ,b[l ,/ud #ef ,loom ,side ,cap #eg ,y>n ,beam ,bracket #eh ,pick+ ,b[l #ei ,pick+ ,b[l ,coll> #fj ,pick+ ,boss #fa ,top ,plate = ,pick+ ,/ick #fb ,"u ,plate = ,pick+ ,/ick #fc ,squ>e ,hole ,cap #fd ,pick+ ,plate #fe ,pick+ ,neb #ff ,hat = ,pick+ ,%aft #fg ,foot-/ep = ,pick+ ,%aft #fh ,swan ,neck #fi #f;94 ,ruffle #gj ,fly ,:eel #ga #d;94 ,ruffle #gb ,spr+ ,bracket = ,pick+ ,%aft #ge ,incl9e #gf ,weft-=k ,hold] #gg ,weft-=k #gh ,brake ,lev] ,re/ #gi ,b[spr+ ,bracket #hj ,b[spr+ #ha ,upright ,temple ,spr+ #hb ,"u ,spr+ #hc ,small ,spr+ #hd ,knock+-(f ,f+] #he ,h+e ,spr+ #hf ,front ,plate = ,slay #hg ,bracket or ,re/ = ,/op ,rod #hh ,f+] = ,loose ,re$ ,/op ,rod #hi ,/op ,rod1 ,re/1 & ,bracket #ij ,heat] ,spr+ #ia ,heat] #ib ,brake ,:eel #ic ,flange #id ,beam ,:eel #ie ,c>ri] ,:eel #if ,clo?-rod ,f+] #ig ,tak+-up ,lev] ,cat* #ih ,tak+-up ,lev] #ii ,?ree ,leaf ,treadle ,grate #ajj ,twill ,treadle ,b[l #aja ,twill ,treadle ,bracket #ajb ,long ,twill ,treadle ,bracket #ajc ,treadle ,b[l #ajd ,treadle ,b[l ,p9 #aje ,f\r ,leaf ,treadle ,bracket #ajf ,f\r ,leaf ,treadle ,grate #ajg ,hold+ ,cat* ,bracket #ajh ,hold+ ,cat* #aji ,c>ri] ,:eel ,/ud #aaj ,c>ri] ,:eel ,/ud ,bracket #aaa ,treadle = ,small ,tappet #aab ,twill ,treadle #aac ,*ange ,:eel ,boss #aad ,tak+-up ,cat* ,lev] ,bracket #aae ,back ,lev] ,/ud = ,rev]se ,way #aaf ,b9d] #aag ,duckbill #aah ,slay ,/ud #aai ,regulat+ ,f+] #abj ,slay-/ud ,bolt #aba ,hook = ,*a9 on ,cross-rail #abb ,boxwood ,/rap ,gu>d #abc ,fly ,sp9dle #abd ,%uttle ,guide #abe ,slay ,plate #abf ,spr+ ,hook #abg ,swell #abh ,incl9e ,tumbl] #abi ,organ ,h&le ,b[l #acj ,organ ,h&le #aca ,box ,end #acb ,box ,end ,spr+ #acd ,trick] #ace ,loose ,re$ ,weft ,grate #acf ,loose ,re$ ,weft ,grate ,neb #acg ,fa/ ,re$ ,weft ,grate ,neb #ach ,fa/ ,re$ ,weft ,grate #aci ,b[ ,spr+ ,bracket #adj ,weight ,lev] ,spr+ #ada ,"u ,beam ,lev] #adb ,"u ,beam ,lev] ,bracket #adc ,weft ,lev] ,bracket #add ,hamm] #ade ,temple ,spr+ #adf ,greyh\nd ,tail #adg ,hamm] ,/ud #adh ,hamm]-/ud ,bracket #adi ,tumbl] ,bracket #aej ,tumbl] ,neb #aea ,weight ,lev] ,hook 7rev]seway7 #aeb ,weight ,lev] 7rev]seway7 #aec ,usual ,weight ,lev] #aed ,pla9 ,treadle = ,l>ge ,tappet #aee ,vibrator ,lev] #afc ,loose ,clip = ,brake #afd ,back ,be>] ,bracket #afe ,crank ,%aft ,bu% #aff ,brake ,weight #afg ,fa/ ,re$ ,brake #afh ,weft ,lev] ,/ud ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,v4--,,p>ts ,,( ,,pla9 ,,loom4 ,to face p4 #ef4 ,,%$d+4 ,%$d+ is v important1 & m s 9 figur$ clo? ?an 9 pla92 = x is by ! %$d+ 9 its v>i$ "* t fancy clo? is pr9cipally produc$4 ,= pla9 clo?1 a two-leav$ or two-plat$ tappet is fix$ on ! tappet %aft1 act+ on a b[l fix$ to ! end ( a lev]1 z %[n 9 sket*es ( looms4 ,!re is "o lev] or treadle to ea* plate1 & ! heald work$ by x is atta*$ at ! c5tre by wire1 & a small cord$ cross-piece ( wood1 call$ a lamb4 ,f ! sket* x w be se5 t1 z ! tappets revolve1 ! healds are alt]nately lift$ & depress$1 op5+ ! %$ 9 ! w>p4 ,! %$ = "o pick w h ! front heald at ! top1 & ! back "o at ! bottom2 :il/ = ! next pick _! positions are rev]s$4 ,! tappets are ( r peculi> =m1 a common %ape = pla9 be+ %[n at ,fig4 #bh4 ,work+ on ! c5tre ,s ! ecc5tricity obta9$ is employ$ 9 depress+ ! healds1 b by an int]mitt5t movem5t4 ,! %$ mu/ be op5$ quickly to economise "t1 b mu/ be left op5 suffici5tly long to enable ! %uttle be+ pick$ ?r\gh4 ,a ref]5ce to ! %ape ( ! plate 9 ,fig4 #bh w %[ ?is4 ,f ,n to ,h is ! portion = depress+ ! heald1 f ,g to ,h be+ an arc ( a circle & ! "p by :i* ! heald is held /ation>y1 :ile ,g ,m corresponds inv]sely ) ,f ,n1 & all[s ! heald to rise4 ,x is necess>y = ! ecc5tricity to be equal at ea* %$1 a po9t :i* may be te/$ by notic+ if ! sway ( ! beam is ! same at ea* %$d+4 ,to get ?is1 ! treadles mu/ be level :5 ! healds are1 & ! c5tre ( ! b[l directly "u ! c5tre ( ! %aft4 ,! b[l %\ld be 9 contact ) ! tappet dur+ ! :ole revolution1 & ?us give an easy tread--j]ky motion 9 ei!r tread+ or pick+ be+ v detrim5tal to good weav+4 ,a good %$ %\ld be almo/ z l>ge z ! %uttle at ! po9t :]e x passes ?r\gh1 q cle> f ob/ructions ( any k9d1 & ! l[] half ( x n too l[1 or1 z x is t]m$1 n 8bottom+0 too mu*1 = :5 too l[ ! w>p is fray$ by ! movem5t ( ! slay4 ,a po9t reg>d+ :i* weav+ te*nologi/s (t5 ent] into pr(use argum5ts & diagrammatic illu/ration1 may "h be summ$ up 9 a few words4 ,! l9e ( w>p :5 ! healds are level %\ld be bel[ a l9e drawn f ! temple to ! back re/1 & ! l[] ! healds are 9 ?is respect ! bett] is ! cov] on ! clo?1 al?\gh att5tion mu/ be giv5 to ! rem>ks 9 a previ\s p>agraph reg>d+ bottom+4 ,:e!r ! l[ness ( ! w>p l9e is produc$ by depress+ ! healds or rais+ ! back re/ is immat]ial4 ,:5 pla9 clo? is wov5 9 a twill loom1 ! tappets act above ! c5tre ( ! treadle1 & ( c\rse are ( small] size1 ! healds be+ connect$ to ! end ( ! lev] opposite to ! fulcrum4 ,! calculation ( ! size ( ! %$ f giv5 dim5sions ( ! tappets & treadles =ms a good example 9 lev]age4 ,suppose ! /roke ( ! tappet1 or ! di/ance ?r\gh :i* x moves ! treadle b[l 7repres5t$ 9 ,fig4 #bh71 betwe5 ! out] & inn] circles is #c-a_/b in*es4 ,! treadle is #cj in*es long1 ! treadle b[l be+ #be in*es f ! treadle p91 & ! healds connect$ #ae in*es f ! p9 or fulcrum at ,n4 ,!n ! movem5t ( ! heald f its highe/ to its l[e/ level is equal to ! di/ance mov$ ?r\gh by ! po9t ,n--i4e41 #ba in*es--= if ! b[l moves #c-a_/b in*es1 ! po9t ,n moves 7#c-a_/b #ae7_/be #ba in*es4 ,?is gives ! size ( ! %$ at ! healds4 ,suppose ! heald 9 "q is #g in*es f ! fell ( ! clo?1 ! %uttle pass+ ?r\gh ! %$ #b in*es ne>] to ! clo?1 !n ! size ( ! %$ at ! heald multipli$ by #e & divid$ by #g gives its size at ! po9t :]e ! %uttle passes ?r\gh1 or 7#ba #e7 #g #ae in*es4 ,!re is a slightly diff]5t %$d+ arrangem5t adopt$ 9 "s looms1 frequ5tly s 9 ,york%ire1 b r>ely 9 ,lanca%ire4 ,?is is ! ,brad=d ge> %[n 9 ,fig4 #bc4 ,! tappets are plac$ outside ( ! loom1 & ! treadles are connect$ to ! healds ?r\gh jacks at ! top ( ! loom4 ,a leaf or projection on ! tappet 9 ?is arrangem5t causes ! heald to rise1 n depress+ x1 z 9 ! previ\sly describ$ arrangem5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bc4--;,,brad=d ,,loom4 ,,pick+4 ,among cotton looms ! ov]-pick or ,blackburn pick is commone/4 ,atta*$ to ! tappet %aft are pick+ plates1 "o at ea* side ( ! loom4 ,z ! pick+ arrangem5t at "o side is simil> to t at ! o!r1 a s+le description applies to bo?4 ,! pick+ plate ends 9 a po9t & acts on an upright pick+ %aft ?r\gh a /ud affix$ to ! latt]4 ,! po9t is removable & is l5g!n$ 9 broad] looms ab\t #a_/h in* = e #aj in*es wid] re$ space4 ,at ! top ( ! pick+ %aft is a pick+ /ick1 an arm ( "s #cj in*es long1 c>ry+ a b& connect$ ) ! %uttle box ( ! slay4 ,x is n[ necess>y to describe ! slay4 ,?is is a beam ( wood along :i* ! %uttle is pass$ ?r\gh ! %$ & by :i* ! re$ is held to beat up ! weft4 ,its l5g? is ab\t #c feet m ?an ! wid? ( ! clo? be+ wov51 ! space at ea* end be+ tak5 up by ! %uttle boxes4 ,^! are cavities op5 at ! top & at "o end j suffici5tly wide to hold "o %uttle4 ,p>allel to ! bottom ( ! box or fly-plate is a sp9dle c>ry+ a h>d piece ( horny sub/ance call$ a pick]4 ,to ! top ( ?is ! b& f ! pick+-/ick is atta*$1 :il/ at ! bottom ! %uttle re/s aga9/ x4 ,! back ( ! box =ms an angle ( #hf ) ! fly-plate--?us1 z x 71 =m+ a dovetail into :i* ! %uttle is bevell$ to fit4 ,! space betwe5 ! boxes is call$ ! %uttle race2 x is n absolutely level1 ! middle po9t be+ f #a_/h to #a_/d in* l[] ?an ! boxes1 ! great] depression be+ = wide looms4 ,x w be easily se5 h[ ! revolution ( ! pick+ plate actuates quickly ! pick+ %aft1 & consequ5tly ! end ( ! /ick1 ) an increas$ spe$4 ,! bl[ is transmitt$ to ! pick] & ! %uttle driv5 across ! slay into a simil> box at ! o!r side4 ,:5 a new %$ has be5 =m$ by ! healds x is driv5 back aga94 ,a smoo? pick is mo/ desirable1 & = ?is reason ! /ud on ! pick+ %aft mu/ be set s z to receive a smoo? side bl[ f ! plate1 nei!r a d[nw>d nor an upw>d "o4 ,?is is a po9t 9 ! tackl+ ( looms :i* receives ! att5tion ( e good ov]look]4 ,! %uttle us$ 9 ! ord9>y classes ( cotton goods is ( box or "s o!r heavy wood po9t$ & tipp$ at ea* end ) iron4 ,! usual l5g? is ab\t #ac in*es & dep? #a-c_/h in*4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 t x is smoo? at all p>ts :]e x comes 9 contact ) ! twi/1 free f knots or o!r flaws1 :i*1 %\ld !y give1 w\ld make havoc among ! ?reads4 ,! weft is 9 cop =m1 & fits on a peg inside ! %uttle1 ! loose end f ! cop nose be+ drawn ?r\gh ! %uttle eye by a /rong inhalation ( air by ! weav]4 ,to prev5t excessive wa/e ! manufactur] %\ld obta9 y>n well copp$1 ! cops h>d1 free f nick$ places caus$ by ! m9d] hav+ 8 ends d[n2 cle> ap]tures at ! bottom ( ! cop1 :i* %\ld also be free f backla%+--t is1 ends hang+ slackly bel[ & ov]-lapp+ ^? previ\sly w\nd on4 ,weft cops1 or p9 cops1 %\ld be five in*es 9 l5g?1 & z ?ick z ! %uttle w admit (4 ,weft y>n is select$ accord+ to its ev5ness1 good cov] or nap1 & cleanl9ess4 ,,beat+ ,,up4 ,! %ot or pick ( weft (t5 be+ put ?r\gh ! %$1 is at a di/ance ( five in*es f ! wov5 clo?1 & requires pu%+ up into close contact ) x4 ,! motion ( ! slay p]=ms ?is op]ation4 ,z expla9$ on page #fj1 ! slay is a beam ( wood c>ry+ a re$1 & hav+ a reciprocat+ motion to & f ! fell ( ! clo?1 imp>t$ to x by ! cranks on ! %aft 7,figs4 #bb & #dc47 ,! beam is support$ on two v]tical rods1 call$ slay swords1 atta*$ ne> ! bottom ( ! loom to a vibrat+ or 8rock+0 %aft4 ,! slay is away f ! clo? or front c5tre a suffici5t "t to give opportunity = ! propulsion ( ! %uttle ?r\gh ! %$4 ,7 ! crank-%aft at ! same level z ! slay-sword p91 ! dwell at ea* end ( ! /roke w\ld be exactly equal--a dwell ( "s duration1 h[ev] slight1 x is obvi\s1 !re mu/ be4 ,h[ev]1 ! c5tre ( ! crank-%aft is at a l[] level ?an t ( ! connection ( ! crank-arm ) ! slay-sword e>s1 & ?us ! slay dwells long] at ! healds ?an at ! clo?4 ,z ! slay makes "s #bjj /rokes p] m9ute1 ! v>iations ( spe$ at ! back & front c5tres are sc>cely obs]vable1 b by means ( exact measurem5ts a c]ta9 am\nt ( dwell may be trac$ at ! back c5tre4 ,by describ+ a circle to repres5t ! movem5t ( ! crank1 & at a di/ance f x draw+ to scale an arc ( a circle to repres5t ! movem5t ( ! slay1 we c prove ! =ego+ rem>ks4 ,9 ,fig4 #bd ! circle ref]r$ to is %[n1 & also ! l9e ,a ,e repres5t+ ! /roke ( ! slay4 ,by obs]v+ ! position ( ! ends ( ! connect+ rod ,e#a1 :5 9 contact ) ! circle at ! back c5tre1 & also :5 ! slay is at front c5tre1 we f9d t x has travell$ ov] f ,e#a to ,a#a1 :i* is m ?an half ( ! circle4 ,!n assum+ t ! crank-%aft runs at "o ev5 spe$1 we w\ld say t ! slay takes long] "t go+ =w>d ?an com+ back4 ,aga91 by measur+ ! movem5t ( ! slay f ,a to ,b at ! front1 & f ,d to ,e at ! back1 ^! p>ts are f\nd ( equal l5g?1 b by ext5d+ f ^! po9ts our crank-arm ( equal l5g? 9 e case1 we f9d t to move ! slay f ,b to ,a & back occupies a space on ! circle f ,b to ,b#a1 :ile to move ! slay f ,d to ,e & back occupies a space f ,d#a to ,d#a obvi\sly great]1 f :i* fact we assume t ! slay occupies a long] "t at ! back ?an at ! front1 an arrangem5t purposely contriv$ s z to get !oretically a long] dwell4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 ! arcs ,d#a ,d#a & ,b ,b#a is approximately #ae4 ,calculat+ at #ahj picks p] m9ute1 we get ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! "t ( dwell at front & back to a sev5ty-second? "p ( a second--to a practical m9d n a v great consid]ation4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,! %uttle race is made ( h>d wood laid on ! beam1 & 9 addition to ! depression at ! c5tre is also r wid] at ! middle ( ! race--at t po9t bulg+ out slightly aga9/ ! re$1 :i* is kept 9 contact ) x by ! slay cap at ! top & ! re$ case at ! bottom4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 to keep ! ends ( ! re$ f project+ 9 front ( backbo>d1 or ! %uttle w be ?r[n out4 ,,loose ,,& ,,fa/ ,,re$s4 ,to obta9 a firm bl[ at ! clo? ! re$ is made to /rike x at "r angles1 = if ! angle 7 m obtuse or acute a loss ( =ce w\ld be entail$ by a consequ5t d[nw>d or upw>d /roke imp>t$ to ! clo?1 ! l9e ( action n be+ 9 ! same plane z ! l9e ( reaction4 ,) reg>d to ! firmness ( ! beat+ up1 we h to consid] ! m]its ( fa/ & loose re$ looms4 ,9 weav+1 an accid5t :i* n infrequ5tly occurs is ! /oppage ( ! %uttle :5 x has only trav]s$ a portion ( ! di/ance across ! w>p4 ,a case ( ?is %uttle trapp+ causes ! breakage ( m or few] ends1 & consequ5tly arrangem5ts are made = prev5t+ mu* damage1 ei!r by arre/+ ! motion ( ! loom sudd5ly1 9 case ( a fa/ re$1 or by hav+ a re$ hang+ loosely beh9d ! %uttle s z to give way 9 case ( a 8ma%40 ,! latt] arrangem5t is pref]able1 z !re is n ! sudd5 concussion giv5 to ! loom1 :i* causes ! vibration & /ra9+ ( e "p1 s objectionable 9 ! fa/ re$ loom2 ! loose re$ c1 h[ev]1 only be us$ = light & m$ium clo?s1 z ! re$ is too lightly fix$ to give a /rong beat-up4 ,9 ! case ( ! loose re$1 ! slay cap holds ! upp] "p ( ! re$ 9 a slot1 ! bottom "p be+ press$ aga9/ ! %uttle race by a /rip ( wood 7complet+ ! re$ case7 atta*$ to ! /op rod4 ,:5 at ! fell ( ! clo?1 ! /op rod is held firmly by a spr+1 & a fairly /rong bl[ c be giv5 to ! clo?2 b at all o!r portions ( ! slay's movem5t no?+ holds ! re$ b a weak spr+ act+ on ! cas+1 & if ! %uttle traps1 ! re$ flies out1 :ile a f+] on ! /op rod knocks ! loom h&le (f1 /opp+ ! ma*9e )\t unnecess>y concussion4 ,?is latt] advantage enables ! loose re$ loom to be run at a spe$ ( "s #cj or #dj revolutions m ?an ! fa/ re$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #be4 ,fa/ ,re$ ,loom4--,"h ! loom is /opp$ sudd5ly 9 case ( ! %uttle be+ /opp$ 9 ! %$4 ,f ,fig4 #be ! arrangem5t w be und]/ood4 ,a swell atta*$ to ! %uttle box is plac$ s z to project into x :5 ! box is empty1 & ?r\gh an ,l-lev] ,a drops a cat* s z to /rike ! frog ,b & arre/ ! motion ( ! slay4 ,! frog moves a %ort di/ance & puts ! loom brake 9 action be=e *eck+ ! motion ( ! slay4 ,?is is done by means ( ! rod ,c4 ,! cat* is atta*$ to ! slay sword & re/s on ! lev] ,a4 ,:5 ! %uttle is 9 ! box1 & z ! slay is on ! top c5tre1 ! protector rides above ! frog ab\t a qu>t] ( an in*2 x is only :5 ! %uttle has n l&$ 9 its place t ! loom is /opp$4 ,!re is an arrangem5t = ! swell to be releas$ at ! "t pick+ takes place1 s z n to give unnecess>y ob/ruction to ! %uttle4 ,,take-,,up ,,motion4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,among cotton looms ! positive take-up motion is g5]ally us$4 ,! clo? z wov5 is1 by ?is arrangem5t1 drawn on ! clo? roll] a c]ta9 di/ance at e pick1 ! am\nt ( take-up be+ regulat$ by :eels4 ,fig4 #bf %[s a sket* ( ! arrangem5t4 ,! con/ruction is simil> = almo/ all looms1 b !re are diff]5t ge>s & sizes ( :eels us$4 ,9 ,dick9son's ge> ! rack :eel ( #ej tee? receives its motion f a pawl1 work$ by "o ( ! slay swords4 ,on ! same /ud is ! *ange :eel3 ?is ge>s ) ! /ud :eel1 #ajj tee?1 firmly connect$ ) ! p9ion ( #ab tee?1 driv+ ! beam :eel #ge4 ,! beam or s& roll] is #ae in*es 9 circumf]5ce1 & is cov]$ ) glu$ s&1 p]=at$ t91 or "s po9t$ sub/ance1 to hold ! clo? firmly4 ,! fabric is w\nd on ! clo? roll] bel[ ?is by means ( contact ) ! s& roll]4 ,! *ange :eel is v>i$ to give *anges ( picks 9 ! clo?1 a l>g] :eel giv+ few] picks 9 ! qu>t] in*4 ,ea* ge> has a con/ant numb] associat$ ) x1 call$ a divid5d4 ,if ! numb] ( tee? 9 ! *ange :eel be divid$ into ?is divid5d1 x gives ! picks 9 a qu>t] in* ( clo?4 ,imag9+ t a *ange :eel1 hav+ ! effect ( only "o too? 9 a revolution1 c\ld be appli$1 !n ! divid5d is ! numb] ( picks t ! loom w\ld run be=e ! s& roll] advanc$ a qu>t] ( an in*4 ,suppose #ebh divid5d is tak51 ?is repres5ts a *ange :eel suppos$ to h "o too?4 ,if a :eel ( #ff tee? be put on1 only #a_/ff z _m picks to ! qu>t] w be ins]t$--i4e41 #ebh_/ff #h picks4 ,! me?od ( obta9+ ! divid5d = any ord9>y ge> is-- 7,rack :eel ,c>ri] :eel ,beam :eel7_/ 7,p9ion :eel numb] ( #a_/d in*es 9 circumf]5ce ( tak+-up roll]7 aft]w>ds add+ #a-a_/b p] c5t4 = %r9kage ( ! clo? aft] be+ releas$ f ! t5sion ( ! loom4 ,?us1 ,dick9son's ge> is-- 7#ej #ge #ajj7_/7ab #fj7 #ebj4 ,add #a-a_/b p] c5t4 #g4h ----- ,divid5d #ebg4h ,! pr9cipal ge>s 9 use 9 ,lanca%ire are3-- ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,/ud ,circumf4 ,rack & ,beam ,take-up ,:eel4,c>ri],p9ion4,:eel4,roll]4 ,divi- ,:eel4 d5d4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,j4 ,h>rison ,sons1 n[ ,j4 ,dugdale ,sons #ej #ajj #ab #ge #ae #ebh ,h4 ,livesey ,co4 ,willan ,mills ,j4 ,dugdale ,sons #ej #abj #ae #ge #ae #ejg ,j4 ,r4 ,%orrock ,butt]wor? ,dick9son #ej #ajj #ab #ge #ae #ebh ,w4 ,dick9son ,sons #ej #abj #ae #ge #ae #ejg ,geo4 ,keighley #ej #adj #ae #gh #ad-a_/b #fcg ,pickles #bd #hi #ae #ij #ae -- ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,pickles' ge> also has a sw+ p9ion #bd1 & #b *ange :eels2 to f9d ! *ange :eel requir$1 multiply ! *ange :eel on ! rack /ud by ! picks p] qu>t] in*1 & divide by #i-- ,equal to #d tee? p] pick = a #cf *ange :eel4 #c #bg #b #ah ,by us+ ?is motion1 :i* is %[n on ,fig4 #bc1 bo? heavy & light pick clo? c be wov5 )\t a great v>iation 9 ! :eels4 ,to weave heavy pick clo? )1 say1 ! fir/-nam$ motion1 ! rack :eel might be increas$ to #fj f #ej1 & ! divid5d w\ld !n be #fcd4 ,9 "s looms a lett+-(f motion works 9 conjunction ) ! take-up1 to release ! y>n on ! beam at a fix$ rate4 ,,! ,,weft ,,/op ,,motion4 ,a ref]5ce to ! inv5tion ( ?is v +5i\s & useful app>atus is made 9 ,*apt] ,i4 ,its object is to /op ! loom on ! breakage ( ! weft1 or :5 ! cop is f9i%$4 ,unsightly gaws or goals 9 ! fabric are ?us prev5t$1 & ! weav] enabl$ to att5d to m looms4 ,a lev] is fix$ to ! brea/ beam 7,fig4 #bg71 h+$ at "o end1 & arrang$ s z to re/ aga9/ ! />t+ h&le ,e4 ,! lev] c>ries a b5t =k ,c1 :i* projects into a grid ,d 9 ! slay at ! mom5t t ! crank is at ! =e c5tre4 ,! grid is let into ! back bo>d ( ! slay betwe5 ! re$ & ! %uttle box at ! />t+ side ( ! loom4 ,on ! tappet %aft is fix$ a project+ cam or sector1 rais+ "o end ( a b5t lev] ,c1 ! l[] "p ( :i* is call$ ! greyh\nd tail1 & ! upp] "p1 :i* ends above ! brea/-plate1 f its peculi> =m is dubb$ ! hamm]4 ,! =k be=e ref]r$ to is balanc$1 & its back end hook$ & re/+ on ! hamm]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,:5 !re is weft 9 ! loom ! =k is prev5t$ by ! ?read f pass+ ?r\gh ! grid1 & its back "p is ?us lift$ cle> ( ! hamm]4 ,%\ld ! weft be brok51 ! loom is /opp$ ?us3 ,! sector raises ! greyh\nd tail at ! mom5t t ! slay is at ! =e c5tre1 & !re be+ no weft to raise ! =k1 x is caught by ! hamm]1 & ! lev] to :i* ! =k is atta*$ pull$ =w>d1 :51 z previ\sly ref]r$ to1 ! spr+ h&le is releas$ & ! loom /ops4 ,manife/ly ! motion mu/ be set s z to act :5 ! %uttle is at ! =k side ( ! loom4 ,,! ,,brake4 ,a good brake contributes greatly to ! manufacture ( ev5 clo?2 %\ld ! /opp+ arrangem5ts be ineffective1 ?9 places & cracks w be inconv5i5tly num]\s4 ,usually ! brake is a simple lev] act+ on a brake pulley at "o end1 :il/ at ! o!r x is regulat$ by an incl9$ bracket connect$ ) ! />t+ h&le4 ,:5 ! h&le is pu%$ =w>d1 ! brake lev] is lift$2 :5 ! knock+-(f takes place ! end ( ! brake lev] drops & ! lea!rs come 9 contact ) ! pulley1 /opp+ ! loom4 ,additional brake p[] may be made by alt]+ ! lea!rs or weight+ ! brake lev]4 ,,temple ,,roll]s4 ,! clo? z x is wov5 t5ds to contract 9 wid? 9 consequ5ce ( ! t5sion at :i* x is wr\ght l5g?way1 & to c\nt]act ?is1 temple roll]s are us$4 ,= common] heavy fabrics ! roll] & tr\gh is us$1 & consi/s ( a flut$ roll] cut 9 ! mann] ( a screw at ei!r end1 "o end ) left-h& ?read & ! opposite end a "r-h&4 ,?us a spiral r[ ( po9ts is left at ea* end ( ! roll]1 & x is fix$ 9 ! loom1 s t z ! roll] revolves ! po9ts di/5d ! clo?4 ,! roll] is fix$ 9 a tr\gh = conv5i5ce 9 atta*+ to framework4 ,light] fabrics are wov5 ) side temples4 ,^! are small roll]s act+ only = a di/ance ( #c to #d in*es at ! selvages ( ! clo?4 ,two pairs are usually us$ at ea* side1 ! contr>y-?read spiral arrangem5t be+ pres]v$2 a b> ( iron connects ! two sides4 ,9 ! latt] arrangem5t ! weav] c see ! clo? f ! mom5t x is wov51 :i* is n possible ) ! roll] & tr\gh1 z "s two in*es are hidd5 "u ! roll]3 ! clo? is n held s firmly at ! middle ( its wid?4 ,,tim+4 ,all ! contrivances j describ$ are requir$ to "w h>moni\sly 9 ord] to produce ! desir$ results1 ea* com+ into action at ! prop] "t4 ,9 pla9 clo? weav+1 :5 ! crank is at ! =e c5tre1 ! re$ t\*es ! clo? at "r angles1 & ! healds are slightly op51 =m+ a new %$4 ,z ! slay moves backw>ds j 9 front ( ! bottom c5tre1 ! pick+ b& is tight & j comm5c+ to move ! %uttle4 ,at ?is po9t ! healds are full op5 & rema9 s until ! crank has pass$ ! back c5tre1 :51 z ! %uttle has arriv$ 9 ! opposite box1 ! %$ beg9s to close4 ,be=e ! slay has rea*$ ! front aga91 inde$ :5 j pa/ ! top c5tre1 ! healds are level2 an advantage is ?us ga9$ 9 hav+ ! rods cross$ on ! weft at ! "t x is beat5 up1 hold+ x firmly4 ,! sector lifts ! greyh\nd tail = ! weft /op motion at ! mom5t t ! re$ t\*es ! clo?1 :5 ! =k w\ld be lift$ if !re 7 weft 9 ! loom4 ,?is only happ5s1 ( c\rse1 e alt]nate pick1 :5 ! %uttle is at ! =k side ( ! slay4 ,g5]ally ! monkey tail on ! slay sword moves ! take-up pawl z ! slay moves back1 j dropp+ ! hold+ cat* z ! crank rea*es ! back c5tre4 ,! re$ is held tightly 9 a loose re$ loom :5 ! slay approa*es ! front4 ,( c\rse1 ! tim+ ( ! motion v>ies "u diff]5t circum/ances2 if clo? is be+ wov5 z wide z ! loom w possibly admit (1 or if ! %uttle boxes be %ort1 !n pick+ necess>ily mu/ take place lat]1 z ! %uttle />ts s close to ! clo?2 consequ5tly1 %$d+ mu/ be lat] or ! %$ w close be=e ! %uttle is ?r\gh4 ,( c\rse 9 ?is case ! pick mu/ be /rong]1 z ! %uttle has m friction 9 its trav]se4 ,o!r circum/ances also affect ! tim+4 ,,! ,,position ,,& ,,fix+ ,,( ,,! ,,looms4 ,9 a weav+ %$ ! looms are driv5 f %aft+ runn+ p>allel to ! looms :5 look$ at l5g?way4 ,drums on ! l9e %afts drive ! loom pulleys by means ( /raps4 ,( ^! pulleys !re are two1 g5]ally ab\t #i in*es diamet] = a #dj-;in* loom4 ,"o pulley is loose on ! %aft1 ! o!r key$ to x--! =m] to c>ry ! /rap :5 ! loom is /opp$4 ,! looms are 9 gr\ps ( f\r1 ) an occasional r[ ( c\ples = two or ?ree loom weav]s4 ,! f\r arrangem5t is adopt$ = conv5i5ce to ! weav]1 z ! looms hav+ ! />t+ ends contigu\s1 he has little walk+ = ! purpose ( sett+ on ! ma*9es4 ,?us1 two 8h&s0 ( loom are requir$1 ^? ) ! />t+ h&le at ! "r-h& side be+ nam$ "r-h& looms1 & vice v]s4 ,!re is little diff]5ce 9 con/ruction--! crank-%aft is long] 9 "o ?an ! o!r = ! purpose ( hav+ two /raps on "o driv+ drum4 ,_m p>ts1 su* z crank-%afts1 slays1 %uttles1 =ks1 brackets1 etc41 are requir$ to be ( two 8h&s10 ea* = its own h& ( loom4 ,9 view ( a case ( hav+ to remove looms or fix new ones1 a few rem>ks on ! g5]al arrangem5ts = fix+ !m may n be unacceptable4 ,! l9e %aft runs ov] ! space betwe5 ! w>p beams ( ! looms4 ,a l9e mu/ be m>k$ on ! floor ) *isel or o!r conv5i5t in/rum5t p>allel to ?is %aft & exactly bel[ x4 ,by dropp+ a plumbl9e f v>i\s p>ts ( ! %aft1 ! />t+ po9ts c be obta9$ = /ret*+ a l9e to m>k f4 ,! same arrangem5t is adopt$ at e ?ird %aft1 z ! int]m$iate ones may be measur$4 ,f ^! l9es ! di/ance at :i* ! loom feet are to /& may be measur$1 j leav+ conv5i5t space = gett+ betwe5 two full beams 9 ea* loom4 ,! ends ( ! loom mu/ be set p>allel also1 s t on look+ d[n ! %op a /raight r[ ( ma*9]y w be obs]v$4 ,a l9e = sett+ ! outside loom feet may be measur$ f ! pill>s1 aft] gett+ ! fir/ pair ( looms 9 suitable position4 ,to te/ ! accuracy ( ^! measurem5ts1 ! brea/ beam ( ea* loom1 z fix$1 mu/ be exam9$ 9 a l9e ) ! brea/ beam ( ! previ\sly deposit$ "o4 ,aft] ! correct position is obta9$1 ea* loom mu/ be levell$ up by ?9 %eets ( wood pack+ plac$ "u ! feet z requir$4 ,holes are !n drill$ 9 ! floor1 wood pegs ins]t$1 & long iron nails driv5 home4 ,a good passage r\nd ea* gr\p ( f\r looms _c be too greatly valu$1 & likewise a broad alley "h & !re runn+ ! :ole l5g? ( ! %$4 ,,loom ,,tackl+4 ,a loom requires a consid]able am\nt ( repairs & r5ewals1 ! p]=mance ( :i* is delegat$ to an ov]look] 7sometimes call$ a tackl] or tun]7 plac$ ov] ea* hundr$ looms4 ,if on fancy goods1 few] looms are "u ! control ( "o man2 if pla9 n>r[ goods are wov51 m4 ,8 "w is to keep ! looms suppli$ ) w>ps1 gait !m up1 repair or tackle ! loom :5 necess>y1 provide weav]s1 &1 especially 9 a small place1 p]=m r multif>i\s duties4 ,:5 ! weav]s' beam has be5 plac$ 9 ! loom1 hav+ ! healds & re$s atta*$ to ! w>p1 ! ov]look] draws ! ge>s =w>d1 plac+ a weight rope or *a9 r\nd "o beam ruffle1 &1 if a loom$ beam1 fixes ! re$4 ,! healds are slung loosely to ! heald roll] /raps1 & !n ! twi/ atta*$ to ! s& roll]4 ,if old healds are us$1 ! lap end ( a =m] cut is plac$ on ! roll]1 & ! w>p tight5$4 ,if new healds h _h ! w>p drawn 91 a lap end is atta*$ to ! roll] & ! twi/ ti$ to x1 c>e be+ tak5 to draw up any ends :i* may be ruffl$4 ,! temple is fix$ s z to revolve 9 ! direction requir$ to di/5d ! clo?4 ,!n ) ! cranks ne> ! top c5tre1 ! healds are levell$ by means ( ! cords bel[ be+ atta*$ to ! lambs & treadles4 ,aft] a little manuvr+ s z to make ! %$ bottom nicely1 :i*ev] heald is d[n1 to get ! healds level all across1 & cle> ( any ob/ruction or droop+ ends1 ! lease rods are put 94 ,! second & back healds are rais$ :5 ! back rod has to be put ?r\gh ! front1 ! ?ird be+ up = ! ?9 rod4 ,a few picks ( weft be+ put ?r\gh by h&1 a />t is made aft] f9i%+ ! weight+ ( ! beam & *ang+ ! p9ion1 if necess>y4 ,! weight+ is some:at important2 = light clo?s1 f9e y>ns & light picks less weight is requir$ ?an = ! heavi] classes ( goods4 ,m weight is requir$ = full beams & "u c]ta9 o!r conditions4 ,x is impossible to enum]ate all ! little po9ts 9 ! managem5t ( looms1 :i* x is ! ov]look]'s duty to p]=m2 & only long practical exp]i5ce c tea* _! prop] p]=mance4 ,h[ev]1 neglect+ ! d]angem5ts1 :i* cause faults 9 ! clo?1 & :i* w be treat$ ( 9 ! next *apt]1 we w ref] to "s ( ! common] mi%aps4 ,! %uttle fly+ out ( ! loom is caus$ g5]ally by "s ob/ruction 9 ! %$1 floats1 project+ re$1 top ( %$ too l[ or bottom too high1 or by a crook$ sp9dle or bad pick]4 ,cops fly+ (f ! %uttle peg may be attribut$ to too l>ge holes 9 ! cop1 or %uttle spr+ too weak or unpack$4 ,:5 ! loom does n knock (f :5 ! weft is done1 ! =k may be b5t & ?us lift$ by grate1 an end ( weft may be hang+ to ! %uttle suffici5tly long to cat* 9 ! clo? & lift ! =k4 ,b = ! cause ( ?is1 & also ( ! loom knock+ (f :5 weft is n brok51 ! weft /op-motion mu/ be c>efully wat*$4 ,! pick+ may sometimes be s /rong z to ?r[ ! %uttle out ( ! loom1 or s weak z to all[ x to be trapp$ by ! clos+ %$4 ,by judici\s sett+ ( plate & b[ls1 any desir$ result may be obta9$4 ,:5 by ! %uttle b9d+ too tightly 9 ! box1 etc41 a fracture ( ! weft is made1 x is said to be 8cut40 ,,! ,,weav]s4 ,! av]age weav] runs f\r looms1 b 9 _m %$s provision is made = ?ree1 or ev5 two-loom weav]s1 :il/ qualify+ !mselves = ! high] numb]4 ,9 "s ,nor?-,ea/ ,lanca%ire t[ns five & six-loom weav]s are n infrequ5t on n>r[ /rong goods4 ,! weav]'s duties require "s little skill1 & consi/ ( piec+ up ! brok5 ends ( w>p & draw+ !m ?r\gh ! heald & re$s1 fill+ ! %uttles ) weft & plac+ !m 9 ! loom z ^? 9 work+ become empty1 oil+1 d(f+ 8cuts10 putt+ 9 ! col\r$ head+s--an important "p ( dhooty weav+--oil+1 & p]=m+ simple repairs4 ,! wages obta9able on ord9>y goods1 su* z %irt+s & pr9t]s1 %\ld n be less ?an #aas4 p] pair1 to give satisfactory results1 :ile #abs4 #f;d4 p] pair on dhooties & simple/ fancy goods is good4 ,! wa/e 9 ?is process is important1 f\r p] c5t4 be+ all[able on common y>ns1 say #cf's1 ?is be+ r$uc$ on f9] & consequ5tly bett] copp$ y>ns 7weft74 ,! =ego+ rem>ks apply to ! weav+ ( pla9 clo?s only1 & t by ! mo/ usual me?ods4 ,9 any process :atev]1 x may be t "s v>iation w be f\nd to exi/1 &1 be=e conclud+ ?is "p ( ! subject1 ! modifications ( ! "o /&>d type ( loom may be ref]r$ to4 ,9 %$d+1 ! tappets may sometimes be plac$ on a ?ird %aft1 driv5 f ! tappet %aft1 & t]m$ a twill %aft1 because by alt]+ ! tappets & ! spe$ ! loom may be made available = weav+ twills4 ,:5 ! tappets are fix$ to ! twill %aft !y are small] ?an ^? fix$ to ! tappet %aft4 ,,sett+ ,,out ,,tappet4 ,! sett+ out ( a tappet is an important problem4 ,two circles mu/ be describ$ r\nd ! same c5tre1 ! diff]5ce 9 ! radii be+ ! /roke ( ! tappet--?us1 say ,a ,b or ,c ,d 9 ,fig4 #bh is #c-a_/b in*es1 !n t is ! /roke ( ! tappet4 ,?is is also ! radius ( ! small] circle4 ,! l>ge circle mu/ n[ be apportion$ accord+ to ! numb] ( picks to ! r\nd 9 pla9 clo?1 say two4 ,! circle is !n divid$ into two p>ts by ,e ,f4 ,suppose we wi% ! healds to be /ill dur+ two-?irds ( a revolution ( ! crank-%aft1 !n z ,e ,a ,f repres5ts a :ole revolution1 divide x into six p>ts :]e m>k$1 place f\r ( ^! p>ts f ,g to ,h = ! dwell1 & leave ,e ,g to =m "p ( ! lift+1 & ,f ,h "p ( ! depression ( ! healds4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,! movem5t ( ! ris+ healds comm5ces1 h[ev]1 be=e ! fall+ heald has come to a pause2 !re=e we mu/ trespass into ! l[] half to an ext5t equal to ,e ,g & ,h ,f1 ?us obta9+ by draw+ a diamet] ?r\gh ,g & ! c5tre1 also ?r\gh ,h & ! c5tre1 ! p>ts ,g ,j & ,h ,k = ! rise & fall respectively4 ,divide ,c ,j n[ into six p>ts by radii to ! c5tre1 also divide by arcs ( circles transv]sely1 to ^! radii1 ! space betwe5 ! small & l>ge circles into six p>ts1 !n by draw+ a l9e diagonally ?r\gh ! figures ?us =m$1 we get a l9e ,g ,m giv+ an easy fall f ! l>ge circle to ! small "o1 & by simil> treatm5t a rise on ! opposite side f ,n to ,h4 ,?is is ! !oretical con/ruction ( a pla9 tappet1 f ,m to ,n be+ ! dwell f ! heald :5 up4 ,n to ,h ! depression1 & ,h to ,g ! dwell = ! heald :5 d[n2 & x w be not$1 t al?\gh ,g ,h is app>5tly l>g] ?an ,n ,m1 ! "t ( dwell is ! same 9 ea* case1 9 consequ5ce ( ! arc ,n ,m be+ s mu* ne>] ! c5tre4 ,9 practice1 ! holl[s ,n & ,m may be f\nd r full] ?an %[n "h4 ,?is me?od ( con/ruction applies to tappets ) an increas$ numb] ( picks to ! r\nd1 a po9t :i* w be f\nd describ$ 9 ,*apt] ,,vi4 ,! spe$ ( tappets is an important subject = calculation 9 connection ) ! loom4 ,:5 ! tappets are on ! tappet %aft !y are always pla91 & are driv5 at half ! spe$ ( ! crank-%aft1 9 consequ5ce ( ! latt] %aft only repres5t+ "o pick1 :ile ! tappet %aft1#c c>ry+ two pick+ plates1 repres5ts two picks4 ,%\ld ! tappets be on ! twill %aft1 & driv5 f ! tappet %aft1 !n ! calculation is simple--e4g41 say f\r picks to ! r\nd are requir$1 !n ! crank-%aft mu/ revolve f\r times = ! twill %aft once4 ,! tappet %aft mu/ revolve half z _m times z ! crank-%aft--t is1 twice--& ! ratio betwe5 ! spe$s is z #b to #a1 :i* is also ! ratio ( ! :eels1 say #af & #cb1 or #bj & #dj1 ! l>g] :eel be+ on ! twill %aft4 ,9 ?is case ! rule is to divide ! numb] ( picks to ! r\nd by #b1 :i* w give ! ratio ( ! :eels ge>+ ! tappet & twill %afts4 ,occasionally1 ! %aft c>ry+ ! tappets is driv5 f ! crank-%aft direct1 & ! ratio ( ! ge>+ w be z "o is to ! numb] ( picks to ! r\nd--say #f picks to ! r\nd--!n su* a pair z #ab & #gb1 or #ae & #ij1 w be requir$4 ,obvi\sly1 = a l>ge numb] ( picks1 an int]m$iate pair w\ld h to be ins]t$--say #ac picks to ! r\nd mu/ be wov51 ! :eel on ! crank-%aft be+ #be & ! la/ :eel on ! same %aft z ! tappets is #fe4 ,!n1 to get ! size ( ! pair ( int]m$iate :eels on ! /ud1 multiply #ac by #be & divide by #fe1 :i* w give ! ratio ( ! size ( ! two :eels3-- 7#ac #be7_/fe #cbe_/fe #fe_/ac ,^!1 or a multiple ( ^!1 are ! :eels requir$1 :i* may be prov$3-- 7#fe #fe7_/7be #ac7 #ac picks to a r\nd4 #c ,! t]m tappet %aft is us$ "h 9 ! s5se und]/ood 9 ,nor? ,lanca%ire--i4e41 ! %aft driv5 f ! crank-%aft & c>ry+ ! pick+ plates & tappets if pla94 ,,split ,,clo?s ,,& ,,motions4 ,split clo?s are sometimes wov5 9 ! ord9>y loom :5 n>r[ wid?s are requir$ & a p]fect selvage is n a necessity4 ,?us1 a #dj-;in* loom may weave a clo? ) a few empty d5ts at ! c5tre1 :il/ on ea* side ( ! space ?us caus$ ! w>p ?reads are cross$ 7on ! gauze pr9ciple7 betwe5 ea* pick to make a firm] selvage ?an c\ld be got by ord9>y lift+4 ,! weft ?reads are !n slit along ?is space by a %>p knife1 giv+ two clo?s1 ea* #bj in*es wide4 ,"o sy/em ( =m+ ! selvage is by hav+ an extra loop atta*$ to ! top /ave ( "o heald1 & c>ry+ a ?read :i* is drawn ?r\gh ! o!r heald4 ,by correct draft+ ?is ?read c be made to lift at e pick fir/ on "o side ( its neighb\r+ w>p ?read & !n on ! o!r4 ,! same object is atta9$ 9 a split motion1 pat5t$ by ,j4 ,r4 ,%orrock1 & ,taylor1 ( ,d>w54 ,by means ( eyelett$ /raps revolv+ r\nd a tight5$ w>p ?read1 ! d\p or cross+ ?reads drawn ?r\gh ! eyelets make a v firm selvage :5 slit4 ,! pick+ motions require a few fur!r rem>ks4 ,= "s goods1 especially fancies1 ! "u pick is us$4 ,9 ?is case ! pick+ /ick is r long] ?an ! slay sword1 & is fix$ p>allel to x1 project+ f ! rock+ %aft ?r\gh ! %uttle box & pick]4 ,! loom1 ,plate ,,vii41 possesses ! "u-pick arrangem5t4 ,x is driv5 by means ( ! pick+ plate act+ d[nw>ds on a lev] c5tr$ at "o end1 :il/ c>ry+ at ! o!r end a /rap fix$ to ! pick+ /ick ab\t f\r or five in*es f ! bottom end ( x4 ,! scroll or side pick is a fav\rite "o = velvet looms4 ,! pick+ plates are fix$ on ! crank-%aft1 & consi/ simply ( a disc ( metal c>ry+ a lug s z to cat* aga9/ a lat* or lug on a %ort incl9$ %aft at ! loom side4 ,?is %aft at ! bottom end actuates by means ( a /rap & pick+ /ick fix$ z 9 ! "u-pick loom4 ,obvi\sly1 ! pick+ f ea* side ( ! loom mu/ be done alt]nately1 & ! plates at ! loom side are arrang$ s z to act only once 9 two revolutions ( ! crank-%aft4 ,?is motion is obta9$ by means ( a scroll plate on ! crank-%aft c>ry+ a groove =m+ an inn] & out] r+ 9 ! plate2 9 ?is works a slide 9 ! inn] r+ = "o pick1 !n trav]s+ ! out] "p ( ! groove = ! second pick4 ,?is slide regulates ! lat* on ! %ort %aft4 ,:5 9 ! out] r+ ! lat* is l[]$ s z to be caught by ! lug on ! pick+ plate1 b is out ( ! way :5 ! slid+ piece is 9 ! inn] r+4 ,( c\rse1 :5 ! slide is 9 ! inn] "p ( ! groove at ! "r-h& side ( ! loom1 ! slide ( ! left-h& pick+ scroll is 9 ! out] r+1 s z to pick alt]nately4 ,?is pick+ arrangem5t is v compact4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,vi4--,,%$d+ ,,motions4 ,to face p4 #gi4 ,,spe$s4--,,av]age ,,spe$ ,,( ,,new ,,looms4 ,re$ ,space4 ,picks p] ,m9ute4 ,if ,d\ble ,cyl9d] ,pla94 ,if ,dobbi$4 ,if ,drop ,boxes4 ,jacqu>d4 #cb in*es #bdj #aij #aij #aij #dd #bjj #age #age #age #ed #ahj #afj #afj #afj #ff #aej #aej #aej #aej ,on goods ) ord9>y head+s1 ! /oppages = *ang+ %uttles1 piec+ ends1 etc41 %\ld n be m ?an "o m9ute 9 twelve1 or #h p] c5t4 ,,re$ ,,space4 ,! re$ space ( a loom is measur$ f backbo>d on ! "o side to ! =k grate on ! o!r4 ,?us1 :at is call$ a #dj-;in* loom measures #de in*es re$ space1 & 9 x x is usual to weave clo? up to #da in*es wide1 al?\gh x is possible to weave #db-a_/d-;in* clo? 9 x4 ,a #bf-;in* loom has a #cj-;in* re$ space1 & w weave to #bh in*es4 ,9 wid] looms ! re$ space is ab\t six in*es above ! nom9al size ( ! loom4 ,,top ,,motions4 ,9 ,plate ,,vi4 are %[n a numb] ( top motions to keep ! healds tight :5 work$ f bel[4 ,ea* is self-explanatory1 & by imag9+ ! effect ( *ang+ ! heald or healds :i* are up = o!rs1 ! value ( ea* arrangem5t w be se54 ,= example--take ,h1 a #c-%aft motion1 two up4 ,if ,no4 #b be requir$ up & ,no4 #c d[n1 ! *ange is made )\t any movem5t ( ! top pulley2 if ,no4 #a be requir$ d[n & ! o!r two up1 x w be drawn d[n a di/ance equal to ! size ( ! %$--say #b in*es2 :il/ ! small pulley be+ connect$ to a /ep pulley on ! l>g] "o1 is only lift$ half t di/ance--say #a in*4 ,n[1 if ! small "o be rais$ #a in* & ,no4 #c heald be kept /ill1 ,no4 #b heald w lift #b in*es--! height desir$4 ,x w be not$ t a top motion is adapt$ only = "o numb] ( healds1 & t ! same numb] mu/ be up 9 successive picks4 ,%\ld diff]5t numb]s be up at consecutive picks1 a spr+ top z at ,s is us$4 ,,*apt] ,v4 ,,cotton ,,clo?1 ,,clo?-,,look+1 ,,v>ieties1 ,,dim5sions1 ,,/&>d ,,makes4 ,x is = export t ! bulk ( cotton goods are manufactur$1 = al?\gh ! home trade is ext5sive :5 consid]$ sep>ately1 yet if comp>$ ) ! =eign trade x becomes unimportant4 ,goods = export may be class$ into a few /&>d makes ( clo? di/+ui%$ by "s special feature z to l5g?1 y>ns1 f9i% or o!r *>act]i/ics su* z are describ$ lat]4 ,be=e leav+ ! mill1 ! classification ( ! goods by "n receives no att5tion1 ! ord] to :i* !y belong be+ ! only di/+ui%+ description4 ,,clo?-,,look+4 ,! pieces are br\ght into ! w>eh\se (f ! mill1 by ! weav]s1 & are hook$ 9 folds ( #a y>d4 ,?is op]ation is p]=m$ on ! hook+ or plait+ ma*9e1 a contrivance :i* requires little or no special description1 z a few m9utes' exam9ation ( x w suffice to acqua9t ev5 a tyro ) its con/ruction & work+4 ,9 "s conc]ns ! look+ is done on ?is ma*9e4 ,probably ! co/ is less5$ & ! cutlook] sees ! :ole ( ! piece 7n miss+ "o side ( ! 8flue10 z n infrequ5tly happ5s 9 ! c\nt]-look+71 b ! fact t ! small] faults are n all se5 r5d]s ! advantages que/ionable1 unless ! clo? is aft]w>ds c\nt]-look$4 ,! clo?-look]'s duty is to exam9e ea* piece ( clo?1 report+ any fault to ! p]son responsible1 & ?r[+ out z seconds ! pieces :i* are n up to quality4 ,! faults attributable to ! weav+ are3-- ,,faults ,,9 ,,clo?4 ,b>e1 badly-cov]$ clo?1 caus$ by ! back re/ ( ! loom be+ too l[1 ! %$ too l>ge1 late tread+ & pick+1 too mu* weight or unev5 %$s4 ,cockly clo? looks raw & has rais$ lumps on ! face caus$ by too little weight4 ,cracks are sometimes weav]s' faults 9 n lett+ back aft] weft break+1 take-up motion work+ unequally1 or ?r\gh "s p>ts n be+ screw$ up tightly4 ,! re$ case also requires att5tion 9 case ( ?is objectionable fault4 ,unev5 clo? is g5]ally attributable to ! unev5ness ( ! weft1 al?\gh any?+ t5d+ to unequal release ( ! w>p f ! beam1 su* z weights t\*+ ! floor1 damp ropes1 or loose pivots1 may cause x4 ,re$y clo? is caus$ :5 a few d5ts ( ! re$ are b5t out ( position4 ,bad sides are ei!r slatt]$1 caus$ by unsatisfactory bottom+1 or are fray$ & raw f lack ( suffici5t side ends4 ,occasionally a bad pick] cat*es ! weft & causes a peculi> ridgy selvage4 ,floats are ! result ( ob/ruction 9 ! %$ g5]ally1 brok5 twi/ keep+ d[n ! w>p ?reads & prev5t+ _! int]weav+ ) ! weft2 a raw place is caus$ :i* c g5]ally be oblit]at$4 ,ma%es are on a l>g] scale4 ,if ! %uttle is entrapp$ )\t ! re$ fly+ out1 9 loose re$ looms1 or ! protector act+ 9 fa/ re$s1 ! twi/ is entirely brok5 out = sev]al in*es 9 ! wid?4 ,to piece up all ^! ends leaves an ugly place1 & x is occasionally pref]able to weave on & seam ! piece1 aft] cutt+ out ! obnoxi\s "p4 ,a %uttle spell+ w cause ! same effect z trapp+4 ,brok5 picks are caus$ by sev]al lay]s ( weft com+ (f ! cop into "o %$4 ,^! %\ld be pick$ out by ! weav]1 z1 besides be+ unsightly1 !y are objectionable 9 c]ta9 aft] processes--pr9t+1 rais+ = oilclo? purposes1 etc4 ,9 figur$ "w faulty patt]ns1 slatt]+ bord]s1 & miss+ picks or ends require att5tion4 ,black oil--t is1 oil discol\r$ by be+ mix$ ) ! p>ticles ( iron gr\nd (f ! %aft necks & be>+s--mu/ be wa%$ out ) soap & wat]4 ,oxalic acid is (t5 appli$ to ! spots1 comb9+ ) ! iron & =m+ oxalate ( iron1 :i*1 be+ soluble 9 wat]1 c be r9s$ out4 ,?is sub/ance1 unless ?or\ghly cleans$ out1 acts some:at corrosively on ! fibre1 & = ?is reason is taboo$ by "s clo? buy]s4 ,9 col\r$ "w c>e mu/ be tak5 t ! col\r %[s up well & bright4 ,accord+ to ! preval5ce ( any ( ^! faults 9 a piece ( clo?1 ! clo?-look] has to select & classify 8 deliv]ies4 ,o!r important items are includ$ 9 ! scrut9y--%ort l5g?s & wid?s1 %ort or unev5 weights1 too light re$ & pick1 wrong head+s1 are all v important po9ts1 necessitat+ c>eful att5tion1 & in/ant report ( same to ! p]sons responsible4 ,,head+s4 ,head+s1 or cross-bord]s1 are b>s ( col\r$ wefts plac$ at ! end ( ea* piece ( clo? = di/9ction f o!r pieces4 ,^! head+s are also plac$ at o!r p>ts ( ! clo?1 indicat+ :]e ! pieces are to be sep>at$ by ! retail deal]s4 ,^! head+s are v fanciful & intricate 9 "s in/ances1 rang+1 z !y d1 f ! simple /ripe head+ ( #b or #d picks1 to ! ext5sive ,s>rie or ,madras head+ #ae or #bj in*es 9 l5g?4 ,! pr9cipal head+s are ! ,bombay1 ,ceylon1 ,s>rie1 ,calcutta1 & ,madras4 ,,pack+4 ,aft] hav+ be5 pass$ ! goods are made up into portable bundles ( ab\t #aj pieces 9 ea*1 & are ready = =w>d+ to ! w>eh\ses 9 ,man*e/]1 or possibly to ! blea*]s or pr9t]s1 or to "s ,glasg[ or ,london h\se4 ,"s few manufactur]s h also a %ipp+ connection1 :5 ! clo? is pack$ & =w>d$ direct )\t pass+ ?r\gh ! h&s ( ! ,man*e/] ag5t4 ,! bulk ( ! clo? goes to ,man*e/]1 & "h und]goes a second scrut9y prep>atory to pack+ if %ipp$ 89 ! grey10 or previ\s to be+ =w>d$ to ! blea*]1 dy]1 f9i%]1 or pr9t]1 if x has to und]go ^! processes be=e export4 ,blea*+ is ! removal ( any col\r f ! clo? by ! action ( *emicals4 ,pr9t+ is ! col\r+ ( ! surface ( ! clo? accord+ to a figure or design1 & may be 9 sev]al col\rs4 ,9 f9i%+1 ! clo? is coat$ ) fill+ sub/ances & has a gloss imp>t$ to x1 greatly improv+ ! appe>ance ( ! fabric4 ,9 su* fabrics z cotton blankets1 or = ! ?9 oilclo?s kn[n z ,am]ican clo?s1 ! fibres on ! surface ( ! clo? h to be rais$2 ?is op]ation is p]=m$ 9 a rais+ ma*9e1 :]e1 by means ( po9t$ fillet+1 ! face ( ! fabric is abrad$ until ! fibres =m a nap4 ,9 pack+1 ! pieces are arrang$ 9 bales & compress$ to ab\t half _! bulk :5 loose4 ,! lay] ( protective mat]ial r\nd ! bales consi/s ( :ite pap]1 br[n pap]1 foll[$ on ! outside by black oil$ %eets & pack %eet+4 ,occasionally1 l95 %eets are introduc$ betwe5 ! inn] & ! out] lay]s z an additional protection aga9/ /a9 or damage4 ,! bales are hoop$ 9 ! press4 ,,v>ieties ,,( ,,cotton ,,clo?4 ,! pr9cipal makes ( cotton clo? are giv5 bel[1 toge!r ) rem>ks conc]n+ export1 siz+1 etc41 & at ! end a li/ ( ! /&>d sizes is atta*$4 ,! fir/ gr\p ( clo?s includes ! %irt+s1 dhooties1 & long-clo?s3-- ,%irt+s are heavily-siz$ goods1 #abe p] c5t4 n be+ unusual4 ,! wid?s v>y f #ch to #ej in*es1 l5g? ab\t #cg-a_/b y>ds long-/ick4 ,re$ & pick f #ab squ>e to #ai #ah4 ,^! goods are made to weight--?us1 a #ci-;in* #af #ae weighs #h-a_/dlb42 a #de-;in*1 #ilb42 a #ej-;in* #ajlb4 ,v>i\s k9ds are made1 "s m$ium-siz$4 ,:at is kn[n z ,indian %irt+ is ! heavy-siz$ class4 ,%irt+s are export$ to ,india1 ,*9a1 ,japan1 ,turkey1 ,italy1 ,levant4 ,a good class is made1 blea*$1 & export$ to ,egypt1 ,japan1 ,india1 & ,*9a1 z :ite %irt+s4 ,dhooties are %irt+s ornam5t$ by /ripes ( grey or col\r$ y>n1 & 9 suitable l5g?s = ,h9doo lo9 clo?s4 ,! /ripes are n ( v v>i$ "* 9 grey dhooties1 be+ simply tape edges =m$ by cramp+ grey or blea*$ y>n at ! selvage4 ,9 col\r$ dhooties1 /ripes ( v>i-col\r$ w>ps are introduc$ ab\t an in* f ! edge ( ! clo?1 & v>y+ f half an in* 9 wid? to #d in*es1 sometimes be+ introduc$ at int]vals all across ! piece4 ,9 dobby-dhooties ^! /ripes are wov5 9 figures4 ,a range ( dhooties includes all wid?s f #bb to #ej in*es1 & ! l5g? ( sc>f v>y+ f #b y>ds 9 ! small] size to #e y>ds 9 ! l>g]4 ,a sc>f is ! di/ance betwe5 ! head+s1 :i* 9 ^! goods are v ext5sive1 sometimes rea*+ to #bj in*es 9 l5g? at ! juncture ( ! two sc>ves4 ,a ,range #bb in*es & #bc in*es #b-y>d sc>f4 #bd #be #b-a_/b #bf #bh #c #bi #cb #c-a_/b #ce in*es 444 444 444 #d ,! high] wid?s be+ v>i\sly #d-a_/b or #e y>ds4 ,dhooties are made up 9 ab\t #dj-y>d l5g?s--?us1 a piece #dd in*es wide w\ld conta9 #d d\ble sc>ves4 ,! y>ns employ$ v>y simil>ly to %irt+s1 f #cj_/dj's w>p1 #cf_/fj's wefts4 ,! dress ( a male ,h9doo consi/s ( a dhootie conta9+ #d squ>e y>ds1 a doputta ( #h squ>e y>ds1 & a turban ( #ab squ>e y>ds2 :il/ 9 addition ! ,h9doo woman we>s s>rie1 a simil> clo? to ! dhootie4 ,india is ! recipi5t ( ! dhooties 9 greate/ quantity4 ,s>ongs g to ,java1 patadiongs to ! ,phillip9es4 ,! %irt+s "h m5tion$ mu/ n be confus$ ) ! home trade %irt+s--goods 9 :i* only ! f9e/ y>ns are us$1 free f any ( ! objectionable fill+ ref]r$ to above4 ,to ?is class belong long-clo?s1 m$iums1 ,wigans 7pla9 & twill71 d\ble w>ps & twills4 ,export long-clo?s are pla9 goods1 %irt+ /yle1 #cf y>ds long1 g5]ally #cf in*es wide1 #ab squ>e1 m$ium size4 ,ano!r gr\p ( siz$ clo?s1 next 9 importance to ! %irt+s1 consi/s ( ! ,t-clo?s1 ,mexicans1 dome/ics1 & madapollams4 ,t-clo?s are always #bd y>ds 9 l5g?1 ( co>se y>ns1 heavily siz$1 f #bh to #cb in*es wide1 #ab #aj to #af #af1d #dlb4 & #flb4 9 weight4 ,! "n is d]iv$ f ! m>k ,t ( ! fir/ export]s4 ,export$ to ,india1 ,*9a1 ,japan1 ,s\? ,am]ica1 ,r\mania & ,s]via4 #d ,9 ?is ,*apt]1 :]e re$ & pick is giv51 x mu/ be und]/ood z ref]r+ to a qu>t] ( an in*1 unless o!rwise specifi$4 ,?us--#ab #aj means #ab ends & #aj picks 9 a qu>t] ( an in*1 or #dh ends & #dj picks p] in*4 ,dome/ics are f #bh to #ci in*es1 #fj1 #gb1 #hj1 or #if y>ds4 ,w>p1 #ah_/bd's2 weft1 #af_/dj's2 & f #ad to #af re$ & pick2 m$ium to heavy size4 ,export$ to ,s\? ,am]ica1 ,italy1 ,levant1 ,turkey1 ,egypt4 ,a some:at bett] class is made & us$ ext5sively by ! home trade4 ,mexicans are ( bett] quality ?an ! =ego+1 & are always above #ag #ag re$ & pick1 y>ns1 twi/1 co>se2 weft1 m$ium2 m$ium size2 #bh to #cb in*es 9 wid?4 ,export$ to ,s\? & ,c5tral ,am]ica4 ,madapollams are light] 9 re$ & pick ?an ! =ego+1 be+ ab\t #aa & #ab squ>e2 wid?1 #bh to #cb in*es1 & simil> 9 l5g? to ! ,t-clo?s & ,mexicans2 siz$ m$ium4 ,export$ to ,india pr9cipally1 also to ,m$it]ranean ,/ates & to ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,dye+ & pr9t+ clo?s =m an important dep>tm5t4 ,"u ! fir/ head+ ,turkey r$s are prom95t4 ,^!1 l pr9t]s1 are clo?s ( good quality4 ,%irt+ c\nts & wid?s1 b ab\t twice ! l5g?2 pure size4 ,export$ to ,japan1 ,*9a1 ,india4 ,pr9t]s1 ,burnley makes1 sometimes dubb$ ,burnley lumps1 are #cb in*es1 #aaf y>ds1 #af #af1 #cb's_/#ej's y>n4 ,quality important1 y>ns good1 lightly siz$1 w>ps ev5 & h>d-twi/$1 weft free f unev5ness1 sn>ls1 etc4 ,glossop pr9t]s1 #cf in*es1 #ai #bb2 #ej y>ds1 #aa-c_/dlb4 ,^! are n ! only descriptions ( pr9t]s1 co>se clo? ( v>i$ dim5sions be+ requir$1 :i*1 :5 /amp$ ) patt]ns ( e conceivable /yle1 are export$ to ,india1 ,p]sia1 ,italy1 ,brazil1 ,levant1 ,java & ,japan4 ,9 light goods1 tanjibs1 jacconetts1 mulls & cambrics may be class$ toge!r4 ,tanjibs are ! co>se/2 #cj to #ej in*es wide1 #ch y>ds long1 #ab squ>e1 #cb's_/#dj's2 lightly siz$4 ,jacconetts & na9sooks are f9]2 #ci to #dd in*es1 #ad #ad to #af #af1 #cb's_/#ej's1 ab\t #bj y>ds long4 ,mulls are some:at simil> 9 /yle2 #ci to #ej in*es wide1 #bj y>ds1 #af #af to #bj #bj1 f #fj's to #ajj's y>n2 pure size4 ,cambrics are ! f9e/ ( ! gr\p2 g5]ally wide f #bd squ>e to #cf squ>e1 #hj to #afj's y>n2 pure size4 ,turkey1 ,india1 ,*9a1 ,japan1 ,r\mania1 ! ,levant1 ,egypt1 are all cu/om]s = ^! f\r clo?s4 ,book & t>letan musl9s are v f9e home trades4 ,a v>iety ( cambric call$ embroid]y clo? is l>gely made 9 "s di/ricts4 ,x is ( fir/-class quality1 usually ab\t #ej in*es wide1 & cut up into %ort l5g?s4 ,x is *iefly export$ to ,g]many & ,switz]l&1 !re to be embroid]$ by ! ma*9es spread ov] ! c\ntry di/ricts1 & return$ z ,swiss "w1 etc4 ,%eet+s are v wide goods2 #fj to #ajj in*es4 ,! y>ns are co>se1 g5]ally #ab's to #bj's1 al?\gh f9e %eet+s are frequ5tly made4 ,wa/e pla9s are co>se goods wov5 ) y>n spun f wa/e4 ,g+hams1 *ecks1 zephyrs1 al?\gh col\r$ goods1 are ( pla9 weave1 & ( unclassifiable dim5sions4 ,o!r pla9 clo?s ne$+ little rem>k 9 consequ5ce ( _! unimportance are3-- ,t>letan ,musl9 #eb in*es #dj y>ds1 #ac squ>e ,*ambrey #bh #cj #bg #bb ,hair-cord ,musl9 444 #ei #bd #bj #bb ,w>p$ #a tw(old1 & #a f9e s+le4 ,blue ,mottle #bg in*es #if y>ds1 #af #aa ,blue w>p1 :ite weft4 ,victoria lawns1 f9e goods1 & ,taffe*elas1 =m]ly important goods1 are n[ 9 little reque/4 ,cotton clo?s o!r ?an pla93-- ,drills4--,heavy #c-%aft twills1 n>r[1 heavily siz$4 ,export$ *iefly to ,*9a1 few to ,cyprus1 ,levant1 ,turkey1 & ,brazil4 ,cretonnes4--,pr9t$ twill1 made f co>se wa/e wefts1 f9] w>ps1 v>i\s wid?s1 g5]ally n>r[4 ,home trade2 also export$ to ,turkey & ,briti% ,colonies4 ,jeans4--,f9] #c-%aft twills1 pla9 bord]s1 n>r[1 = pr9t+ or f9i%+4 ,sate5s4--#e-%aft brok5 twills1 #cj to #cf in*es1 #ge to #ij y>ds1 #gj to #if re$1 #dj to #hj picks1 #cf's to #hj's weft4 ,velvete5s4--,n>r[1 heavy-pick$ clo?s1 f #ij to #abj to ! qu>t]-in*1 y>ns f9e & be/ quality1 #hj to #ajj y>ds4 ,home trade & g5]al export4 ,cords1 ,fu/ians1 ,corduroys4--,heavy1 figur$ clo?s1 #bj's y>n1 #ij to #adj picks to a qu>t]-in*1 #gj to #ij y>ds4 ,brocades4--,fancy jacqu>d goods2 #cf in*es1 #ge y>ds2 #gb to #if re$1 #bj to #bf picks4 ,doriah ,/ripes4--,clo? c>ry+ cramm$ /ripes--n 9 col\r--are (t5 n>r[1 #bf to #cj in*es1 #aj y>ds long1 #ab to #cj re$ by #ac to #ad picks2 y>n1 #dj_/ej's ,t2 & f9] wefts4 ,l5o4--,n>r[1 g5]ally #cj in*es2 #bd to #dj y>ds1 v v>iable 9 re$ & pick2 y>ns4 ,9 :ite *eck we f9d3-- ,figur$ ,*ecks4--#cj to #cf in*es1 #ac #af to #ah #bj2 #ab y>ds s+le cuts4 ,sat9 ,*eck #dj in*es #cb y>ds1 #af #bj ,tape ,*eck #cf #bd #bb #bj #cg #dh #bj #bd ,,/&>d ,,makes4 ,wid?4 ,l5g?4 ,re$ & ,pick4 ,y>n or ,weight4 ,%irt+s #ci #cg-a_/b #af #ae #cj_/cf's #h-a_/dlb4 ,t-,clo?s #cb #bd #ad #ad -- #flb4 ,mexicans #cb #bd #ah #ah -- #glb4 ,jacconetts #dd #bj #ad #ad #dj_/ej's -- ,mulls #ej #bj #bj #bj #hj_/ajj's -- ,dome/ics #bi #hj #ad #ad #ah_/ah's -- ,dhooties #dd #dj #af #ae #cj_/dj's -- ,pr9t]s #cb #aaf #af #af #cb_/ej's -- ,9 ?is connection1 z reliable & compreh5sive a li/ z x is conv5i5t to ga!r is plac$ be=e ! read]2 al?\gh1 f ! v>i$ "* ( cotton clo?1 _m specialities are omitt$1 su*1 maybe1 z ^? clo?s us$ 9 ! hat trade = l9+1 ! oilclo?s1 umbrella clo?s1 & num]\s mill9]s' & drap]y requirem5ts = ! home trade4 ,illu/ration3 ,decoration ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,,fancy ,,weav+1 ,,tappet ,,& ,,dobby ,,"w1 ,,analysis ,,( ,,clo?1 ,,tappets1 ,,clo?1 ,,dobbies1 ,,dobby ,,clo?1 ,,gauze1 ,,h&k]*ief ,,motion4 ,an important & increas+ly successful dep>tm5t ( cotton manufactur+ is t compris$ "u ! head+ ( fancy "w4 ,"h a great am\nt ( skill & intellig5ce is necess>y1 & 9 ! m complicat$ goods a display ( tal5t uncall$ = 9 ! limit$ & well-trodd5 ways ( pla9 manufactur+4 ,9 fancy weav+ n only d we come across ! v>iations ( manufactur+ details :i* pres5t !mselves 9 ! ord9>y bran*es1 b1 9 addition1 an inf9ite v>iety ( patt]ns & diff]5t designs cr[d ^u ! "o side1 :ile on ! o!r an arti/ic eye is requir$ to combat ) & bl5d ! v>i$ gr\ps ( col\rs & %ades 9 h>mony & beauty4 ,a mom5t's reflection w rem9d ! read] ( ! great numb] ( ! cotton clo?s :i* come "u ! head+ ( fancies1 & = purposes ( conv5i5ce we mu/ treat ( !m "u ! headl9es ( ?ree *apt]s--,simpl] fancies1 ,jacqu>d & complicat$ fancies & ,*ecks4 ,,classification ,,( ,,clo?4 ,wov5 fabrics ( any mat]ial may be divid$ into f\r ma9 classes3--,pla91 figur$1 gauze & wov5 pile clo?s2 laces =m$ on an entirely diff]5t /ructure be+ disreg>d$4 ,pla9s %[ no figure ( any nature on ! face ( ! clo?1 h e end & pick int]wov5 alt]nately1 :ile ! w>p =ms a "r angle ) ! weft4 ,app>5t figures1 ribs & /ripes may be made by us+ f9e & co>se weft or alt]nate c\nts ( w>p4 ,/ripes or *ecks ( col\r may be introduc$1 b if ! weave be unalt]$ ! clo? /ill is class$ z pla94 ,figur$ is a v compreh5sive gr\p1 consi/+ ( ! twills1 sate5s1 velvete5s1 figur$ bord]s1 figur$ *ecks1 damasks1 brocades1 dimity1 weft pile1 c\nt]panes1 fu/ians1 cords1 etc41 & almo/ all fancy clo?s1 except gauze & w>p pile4 ,gauze has a peculi> /ructure1 pure gauze diff]+ f pla9 clo? 9 ! ends1 weav+ at an angle m acute ?an a "r angle4 ,l5o is "o k9d ( gauze4 ,wov5 or w>p pile clo? has a nap wov5 on ! face & cut :il/ 9 ! loom--a class ( clo? n frequ5tly met ) 9 cotton1 b g5]ally 9 ! silk & c>pet trades4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,,analysis ,,( ,,patt]ns4 ,= purposes ( ref]5ce & communication "s me?od ( repres5t+ clo? patt]ns on pap] is necess>y1 & ! "o g5]ally adopt$ is to use po9t pap] rul$ 9 small squ>es by ?9 l9es2 bold] l9es gr\p ! small] into l>g] spaces1 g5]ally #h by #h1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #bi4 ,assum+ t a r[ ( horizontal spaces 7n l9es7 repres5ts a pick ( weft1 & correspond+ly a r[ d[n ! pap] is indicative ( a w>p ?read1 a cross or m>k is made :]e ! twi/ %[s on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,?us1 ,fig4 #cj repres5ts pla9 clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #cj1 & foll[+ ea* pick across1 we f9d t fir/ ! w>p & !n ! weft rise1 & by trac+ any end we see t x floats ov] & "u ! weft alt]nately--?is giv+ ! well-kn[n pla9 weave4 ,:]ev] ! w>p %[s1 a cross is made 9 t int]section4 ,! cross is only us$ = conv5i5ce4 ,:5 a design has to be prop]ly %[n ! :ole ( ! int]section mu/ be fill$ up ?us3 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cd4 ,advocat+ ! me?od ( plac+ a = a twi/ ris] is a dep>ture f ! rules ( "s au?orities on weav+ 9 ! pa/1 & also f ! sy/em adopt$ 9 o!r textile indu/ries at ! pres5t4 ,! reason = adopt+ ! sy/em m5tion$ is1 t = mo/ cotton fabrics x is advantage\s 9 facilitat+ ! read+ ( ! design1 = pegg+ 9 ,keighley dobby1 c>d-cutt+ 9 ! jacqu>d1 plann+ tappets1 9 %[+ up "s classes ( designs m cle>ly1 less "w 9 m>k+ "s gr\nd clo?s ) prepond]at+ weft1 & 9 o!r te*nicalities1 ! :ole ( :i* comp5sate = ! disadvantages ( ! sy/em 9 "s few classes ( clo?s :]e a design] uses ! alt]nate sy/em ( weft ris] at 8 conv5i5ce4 ,9 ref]5ce to ,fig4 #cj1 ! beg9n] w cle>ly und]/& t ! m>ks or crosses %[ ! w>p on ! face ( ! clo? ) ! weft und]nea? x4 ,! same squ>e if left blank w\ld %[ ! weft on ! face ) ! w>p b5ea? x4 ,?us1 ! r[ ( m>ks numb]$ #a 9 ,fig4 #cb %[s numb] #a w>p ?read float+ ov] #g picks out ( #h1 & ! r[ ( blank space numb]$ #h %[s ! weft ov] w>p ?read numb] #h = ! space ( #g picks out ( #h4 ,! clo? %[n 9 ,fig4 #ca has its repres5tation on po9t pap] at ,fig4 #cb1 ! numb]s atta*$ to ! ?reads correspond+ ) ! r[s ( spaces 9 ! design4 ,9 transf]r+ a patt]n f a piece ( clo? to po9t pap]1 a beg9n] w\ld p9 x to a bo>d1 m>k an end ( w>p1 say ,no4 #a 9 ,fig4 #ca1 & comm5c+ ) ! bottom pick #a1 m>k crosses on 8 po9t pap] :]e ! w>p %[s at any squ>e 9 t pick--?us1 at ! #a/1 #bnd1 #crd1 #e? & #i? ends--work+ upw>ds to ! next pick1 />t+ at ! same end4 ,simil>ly a second pick is put d[n on ! po9t pap] above ! fir/1 always work+ 9 "o direction1 say f left to "r4 ,?is is cont9u$ until ! patt]n beg9s to repeat itself1 z at pick #i1 :5 x is complete4 ,a patt]n is ! lea/ numb] ( ends & picks on :i* a clo? c be wov51 ! picks or ends ( a second patt]n be+ facsimil ( ! fir/4 ,! analysis or prick+ ( patt]ns is p]=m$ by an exp]i5c$ man )\t ! t$i\s process ( pull+ ! clo? asund]1 ! patt]n be+ read f ! face ( ! clo? by means ( a clo?-glass4 ,,design+4 ,design+ 7actual7 is a v diff]5t process4 ,a figure or figures ( "s "* mu/ be orig9at$ suit$ to ! class ( clo? = :i* x is int5d$4 ,?is is fir/ sket*$ on pla9 pap]1 call$ a rule1 pa9t$ 7if col\r be desir$71 & hav+ due reg>d to economy 9 ! weav+1 x is transf]r$ to po9t pap]4 ,?is is done by rul+ ! design 9 in* squ>es1 & %\ld ! re$ & pick p] in* be equal1 #h #h pap] is us$2 if ! re$ & pick are 9 proportion to #h & #f1 #h & #aj1 #ab & #h1 or any o!r ratio1 po9t pap] ( t size is us$1 & ! figures w appe> 9 ! clo? proportion$ z 9 ! rule4 ,! lead+ figures ( ! pair ( numb]s are1 9 jacqu>d "w1 always equal to ! numb] ( r[s ( ne$les1 ?us #h --is = a #djj ma*9e1 #ab --= a #fjj4 ,,drafts4 ,aft] hav+ obta9$ ! patt]n ( a clo? x is necess>y to draft ! ends on ! lea/ numb] ( healds on :i* ! clo? c be wov54 ,drafts are repres5t$ 9 v>i\s ways--e4g41 by draw+ l9es repres5t+ ! healds & m>k+ ! ord] 9 :i* ! ends are drawn on !m2 ?us1 if ! fir/ end be drawn on ! fir/ or front heald1 ! second on ! second heald & s on1 we get a /raight draft z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ce4 ,! numb]s repres5t ! heald on :i* ! end is drawn4 ,! ends are lett]$ 9 _! ord]4 ,%\ld ! fir/ end be on ! fir/ heald1 ! second end on ! ?ird heald1 ! ?ird end on ! second heald1 ! f\r? on ! f\r? heald1 we get a skip draft--?us3 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cf4 ,9 practice x is usual to omit ! l9es & j give ! draft1 ?us3-- #d #c #b #a ,?is is a v conv5i5t me?od ( repres5t+ a draft = ! use ( ! draw]-9 or ! weav]1 b :5 us+ po9t pap] x is bett] to res]ve a few picks above ! design to repres5t z _m healds & indicate on :i* ! end is drawn by mak+ a small circle4 ,?us1 a honey-comb design is %[n 9 ,fig4 #cg1 ,a4 ,x c be r$uc$ to & wov5 on #h picks & #h ends1 z at ,b1 ! patt]n2 ! draft is %[n at ,c1 ! #h ends be+ drawn on #e healds4 ,bel[ is %[n ! me?od ( obta9+ ^! plans--a /udy ( :i* rem>ks w enable ! read] to p]=m simil> "w = o!r clo?s4 ,comm5c+ at ! fir/ end on ! left-h& side1 x is plac$ on ! fir/ heald1 ,h #a2 look+ across ! patt]n we f9d no o!r end work+ l x4 ,proce$+ to ! second end1 x is plac$ on heald numb] #b1 & z ! eigh? end works l x1 x is plac$ on ! same heald %aft4 ,! ?ird & sev5? ends are m>k$ = ! ?ird heald4 ,! f\r? end work+ diff]5tly to any o!r except ! six?1 ^! two are plac$ on ,h #d2 :il/ ! fif? end only is left = ! fif? heald4 ,?is draft1 f its appe>ance1 is dubb$ a po9t draft or ,v draft4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cg4 ,,lift+ ,,plans4 ,x is n[ necess>y to indicate :5 ! healds %all be lift$ to make ! clo? ) ! giv5 draft4 ,a portion ( ! po9t pap] is tak5 z _m spaces wide z !re are healds1 & z long z !re are picks to ! r\nd4 ,tak+ ,fig4 #cg aga91 = example1 we f9d ! lift+ plan at ,d1 ! ends & picks be+ numb]$4 ,! m>ks indicate :]e ! heald has to be lift$ at ! pick indicat$2 ?us1 tak+ ! fir/ heald1 we f9d x to be lift$ at ! #bnd1 #crd1 #d?1 #e?1 #f? & #h? picks1 a work+ necess>y = ! fir/ end1 :i* is drawn on ! heald 9 "q4 ,! pegg+ plan = a dobby is a modification ( ?is4 7,see page #ajf47 ,= a /raight draft ! patt]n is exactly a duplicate ( ! lift+ plan4 ,o!r names = ?is plan are tie1 work+ design1 tread+ plan1 & %$d+ plan4 ,! tie is a plan s]v+ ! same purpose ( ! lift+ plan1 b some:at diff]5tly arrang$1 ! end be+ laid horizontally 9 a l9e ) ! heald ?r\gh :i* !y are drawn2 ?us1 = ! honeycomb1 ,fig4 #cg1 ! tie-up is %[n at ,fig4 #ch1 9 :i* ,a is ! tie-up4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ch4 ,! lift+ plan = ,fig4 #cb is %[n at ,fig4 #cd1 ,a1 :ile ! tie-up is %[n at ,fig4 #cd1 ,b4 ,,%$d+4 ,! pr9cipal motions = %$d+--i4e41 rais+ ! ends 9 ! requir$ ord] = produc+ ! desir$ weave ( clo?--are tappets1 ! dobby1 & ! jacqu>d4 ,! tappets & ! dobby are describ$ 9 ?is ,*apt]4 ,! tappets1 :i* h ! small] range ( "w1 are tak5 into consid]ation fir/4 ,,tappets4 ,= ! simpl] classes ( fancy weav+1 designat$ /avework1 tappets are (t5 us$4 ,^! are arrangem5ts ( plates c>ry+ projections to raise ! healds :5 requir$1 ! plates be+ plac$ s t ! projections 9 sev]al plates :i* are to act at "o pick are 9 l9e ) ea* o!r1 s z to raise ! diff]5t healds at "o & ! same "t4 ,tappets are fix$ ei!r above ! loom 7& are nam$ motions or ,jamieson's tappets71 or at ! side ( ! loom--z1 = in/ance1 ! ,woodcr(t tappets4 ,9 "s cases1 = ?ree & f\r-%aft twills1 "u-heald tappets are us$1 & fix$ on ! twill-%aft previ\sly ref]r$ to 7page #gf74 ,9 sett+ out a tappet--= a sate5 motion1 = in/ance--fir/ get our patt]n1 ,fig4 #da1 :i* is compos$ ( ,fig4 #ci1 a sat91 & ,fig4 #dj1 a pla9 = ! selvage4 ,fig4 #da is ! patt]n on #g healds & #aj picks to ! r\nd1 t numb] be+ ! lea/ t w conta9 bo? #b & #e )\t rema9d]4 ,! draft be+ /raight ov] ! patt]n is also ! lift+ plan1 & ! fir/ plate is requir$ to lift ! healds at ! #a/ & #f? picks4 ,divid+ a circle into #aj p>ts1 we take ! fir/ "p1 & all[+ half a revolution ( ! crank-%aft = dwell1 obta9 an incl9$ portion ,c = ! rais+1 & ,d = ! depression ( ! heald 7z describ$ 9 ,*apt] ,,iv471 by divid+ ,e ,c into six p>ts1 & describ+ six arcs ( a circle1 aft]w>ds draw+ a l9e diagonally4 ,! tappet foll[s ! circumf]5ce ( ! inn] circle until x arrives at ! #f? pick1 :5 ano!r projection mu/ be rais$4 ,! complete tappet foll[s ! =m %[n by ! ?ick l9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ci4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #da4 ,x w be se5 n[ t1 z ! tappet only moves #a_/aj? ( a revolution = "o pick ( ! loom1 ! heald connect$ ) ?is plate w be actuat$ j z is requir$ 9 ! tread+ plan4 ,f\r o!r simil> plates mu/ be ca/ = ! o!r sat9 healds1 :i* five w be bolt$ toge!r s z to h projections at ! #a1 #c1 #e1 #b & #d picks1 z %[n at ,a4 ,to ^! are bolt$ two pla9 plates1 or1 z is m usual1 "o ca/+ equal to ! :ole sev54 ,! plates = pla9 %[ an alt]nate projection & space4 ,by ! k9dness ( ,messrs4 ,willan ,mills1 ( ,blackburn1 a sket* ( _! loom ) "o ( ^! motions 7,smalley's pat5t7 affix$ to x is %[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #db4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dc4--,,loom ,,) ,,smalley',s ,,motion4 ,to face pp4 #ih & #ii4 ,! tappet is fix$ on ! upp] frame-"w ( ! loom & %ort treadles arrang$ above x4 ,to ^! ! healds are atta*$ & lift$ by ! plates1 be+ drawn d[n aft]w>ds by spr+s & ! healds4 ,9 a rec5tly-improv$ =m ! treadles raise ! jacks to :i* ! healds are atta*$1 giv+ a /raight lift4 ,^! tappets are seldom us$ = m ?an #h healds & #ab picks to ! r\nd4 ,above ?is ext5t 9 tappet "w1 a ,woodcr(t sectional tappet is us$1 arrang$ at ! loom side4 ,9 ^! tappets ! projections 7call$ ris]s & fall]s7 are removable1 ! tappet be+ adaptable to diff]5t patt]ns up to #ad /aves & #bj picks4 ,9 ! ,york%ire loom1 ,fig4 #bc1 ! tappets are plac$ at ! loom side1 & are connect$ ) ! top ( ! healds by rods4 ,tappets possess ! advantage ov] o!r %$d+ motions ( l>g] capacity1 su* z ! dobby3 7a7 9 l[] fir/ co/2 7b7 /eadi] & /rong] lift )\t risk ( hooks slipp+2 7c7 9 hav+ a split %$--i4e41 a %$ :i* has "o portion pull$ d[n :ile ! o!r is drawn up1 sav+ "t4 ,dobbies & jacqu>ds g5]ally h a sunk %$1 & if by ^? ma*9es a %$ #b in*es deep is requir$1 ! lift+ knives h to be rais$ ! :ole di/ance1 f ! bottom to ! top4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #de4 ,,clo?s ,,wov5 ,,by ,,tappets4 ,among ! clo?s wov5 on tappets !re are twills1 clo?s 9 :i* a figure is wov5 diagonally across ! clo? by rais+ ! healds consecutively4 ,!y are 9 l>ge v>iety1 be+ wov5 on ?ree %afts upw>ds & n conf9$ to ! lift+ ( a s+le heald at ea* pick2 z 9 "s clo?s two or ?ree out ( a l>g] numb] may be rais$1 b ! same numb] is up at e pick1 al?\gh mov+ "o end or m at ea* pick4 ,a s]ge is a modification ( a simple twill wov5 9 ?is mann]4 ,fig4 #dd repres5ts a #d-%aft twill ris+ "o 9 f\r1 :ile ,fig4 #de %[s a #d-;end twill ris+ two 9 f\r1 call$ a d5im1 swansd[n1 or ca%m]e twill4 ,! sat9 weave is a brok5 twill--t is1 in/ead ( lift+ consecutively at ea* pick1 an end1 or 9 "s cases two ends1 are pass$ ov]1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ci 7sate574 ,! ends are lift$ 9 ?is ord]3 #a1 #c1 #e1 #b1 #d4 ,a #e-/ave1 %[+ a weft sat91 is ! /&>d = sate54 ,! sat9 or brok5 twill applies to any numb] ( twill /aves--e4g41 a #ab-/ave sat91 pass+ #d ends ov]1 lifts #a1 #f1 #aa1 #d1 #i1 #b1 #g1 #ab1 #e1 #aj1 #c1 #h4 ,a p]fect sat9 nev] %[s contigu\s ends lift+ toge!r1 z su* w\ld give a 8spotty0 appe>ance4 ,z almo/ all ! weft %[s at "o side ( ! clo?1 ! p>allelism ( ! ?reads gives to ?is weave its well-kn[n lu/re1 b unless f9e y>ns & re$ ) heavy pick are us$ a v frail /ructure is ! resultant4 ,/ripes are ( v>i\s k9ds4 ,! h]r+-bone or rev]s$ twill =ms an undulat+ patt]n by us+ a po9t draft4 ,simple figures1 on n m ?an six or eight /aves1 wov5 cramp$ betwe5 /ripes ( pla91 are call$ doriah /ripes4 ,,pile ,,clo?s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #df4 ,velvete5s are wov5 by motions simil> to ! "o 9 ,fig4 #df1 g5]ally on six /aves4 ,! object aim$ at 9 ?is clo? is to produce a firm gr\nd clo? ) picks ( pile weft float+ ov] sev]al ends ( w>p4 ,pile picks are ins]t$ betwe5 pla9 or twill gr\nd picks & are firmly b\nd 9 at int]vals1 s t :5 ! float+ portion is slit by ! cutt] ! pile ?reads w n be loose4 ,9 ! uncut clo? a slight rib ( weft is se5 transv]sely4 ,a patt]n ( velvete5 is giv5 at ,fig4 #df4 ,velvete5 is class$ ) ! figur$ clo?s1 = z x leaves ! loom x pres5ts no appe>ance :i* w>rants o!r classification4 ,! f\r? class ( fabrics--wov5 piles--is wov5 9 an entirely diff]5t mann]4 ,a wire is ins]t$ 9 e f\r? %$ in/ead ( weft2 picks ( weft are !n put 9 & ! wire )drawn4 ,z x c>ries a knife1 ! loops ( w>p ov] ! wire are cut z x is pull$ out1 leav+ a pile on ! clo?1 ! l5g? ( :i* is p]fectly regul>1 diff]+ f ! weft pile velvete5 9 ?is respect4 ,! wires are ins]t$ & )drawn by additional me*anism atta*$ to ! loom4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dg4 ,,cords1 ,,fu/ians4 ,cords1 molesk9s1 corduroy1 fu/ian1 bull-hides1 ?icksets1 are all pile fabrics ( a heavy "*4 ,! pile is all 9 ! weft float+ ^u a gr\nd clo?4 ,diff]5t makes ( ea* fabrics are wov5 & nam$ frequ5tly accord+ to ! /yle ( ?is gr\nd or back+ weave--e4g41 tabby back means pla91 ,g5oa is a #d-;end twill1 ,jeanette is a #c-;end twill1 d\ble ,g5oa1 d\ble ,jeanette4 ,woodcr(t tappets are *iefly us$ 9 ! production ( ^! clo?s4 ,! cords %[ a broad wale or /ripe runn+ l5g?way ( ! piece1 consi/+ ( weft float+ ov] ! w>p & gr\nd clo?1 & 9 su* a mann] t :5 slit along ! c5tre ( ea* /ripe ! divid$ ?reads /& up to =m a cord4 ,! weft ( ! next wale be+ cut simil>ly1 a /ripe ( pile fabrics is n[ =m$1 hav+ its c5tre above ! groove :i* divid$ ea* /ripe ( uncut y>n4 ,a r\nd$ effect is giv5 to ^! cords by hav+ ! ?reads =m+ ! c5tre ( great] l5g?s ?an ! sides ( ! cord1 !y hav+ _h a long] float 9 ! weav+4 ,?is clo? is dy$ & f9i%$1 be+ sold z corduroy4 ,cords are ( sev]al k9ds1 "o class nam$ 8con/itution10 ( :i* a patt]n is giv5 at ,fig4 #dg1 on #ab ends & #ab picks1 requir+ #h /aves to weave x4 ,! con/itution is ! broade/ cord1 ! ?ickset cord be+ ! f9e/1 :il/ #h & #i %afts1 bang-up1 ,mellor's r\nd top & cable cords are names giv5 to o!r v>ieties4 ,con/itutionals are g5]ally made on #h %afts2 y>ns1 #cj_/b fold twi/2 #af's to #bj's weft2 #abj to #adj picks to a qu>t] in*2 #cf to #dd re$1 ,/ockport2 #ca in*es wide1 #ajj y>ds long4 ,cables are on #aj & #ab %afts4 ,?icksets are on #f ends & #i picks1 #cj in*es wide2 #cj to #dd re$1 ,/ockport2 #ij to #abj picks to qu>t] in*2 #ad's twi/1 #bb's weft4 ,9 imitat+ sk9s ( animals ! bull-hide weave is resort$ to ei!r = beav] or lambsk9 f9i%2 wov5 on #h ends & #h picks4 ,molesk9 is a smoo?1 solid clo?1 &1 be=e f9i%+1 %[s a v slight longitud9al rib :i* di/+ui%es x f ! cotton velvets1 :i* h a transv]se rib4 ,molesk9 is (t5 call$ velvete51 al?\gh n correctly s2 really1 velvete5s are ! cotton weft pile velvets previ\sly describ$4 ,^! classes ( clo? are wov5 ) ! non-positive or drag take-up motion1 :i* draws =w>d ! clo? z x is knock$ up by ! slay4 ,a cat* is rais$ by ! rock+ %aft ( ! loom1 & actuates by a rat*et worm & :eel ! clo? roll]4 ,! cat* is only weight$ suffici5tly to draw ! clo? =w>d :5 x is knock$ up1 ?us n act+ :5 no weft is 9 ! loom4 ,!re is a heavy clo? wov5 f co>se 7wa/e7 y>ns nam$ cotton blankets or cotton flannel4 ,?is fabric passes ?r\gh a rais+ ma*9e1 9 :i* its surface is scrat*$ by po9t$ /eel tee?4 ,x is export$ *iefly4 ,d\ble clo? may be wov5 by tappets1 b z x is m frequ5tly done 9 ! dobby1 we w consid] x 9 connection ) t ma*9e2 ! same may be said ( "s spots1 h&k]*iefs1 & o!r goods4 ,,dobbies4 ,^! %$d+ motions1 9 pr9ciple1 p]haps1 be> m relation to ! jacqu>d ?an to ! tappets1 b are includ$ 9 ! same *apt] z ! la/ 9 consequ5ce ( _! frequ5t association 9 ! same %$ ( looms1 bo? be+ adapt$ = /ave "w4 ,! dobby1 = v _m classes ( fancy cotton clo?1 has ga9$ a reputation z a good %$d+ motion1 & is well wor?y ! att5tion ( a /ud5t ( ?is bran* ( indu/ry4 ,its capacity is sup]ior to tappets1 ext5d+ to #dj %afts1 & ov] two hundr$ picks to ! r\nd 9 "s makes4 ,! ma*9e is fix$ above ! loom1 ,plate ,,vii41 giv+ a direct lift to ! healds1 :i* are kept d[n by spr+s or dead weights4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dh4--,,keighley ,,dobby4 ,dobbies are occasionally ( s+le lift1 b 9 ! cotton trade f> m frequ5tly d\ble4 ,! diff]5ce is 9 ! d\ble lift hav+ two sets ( knives3 ei!r knife c lift any heald1 &1 by duplicat+1 a second knife c be prep>+ = & ev5 comm5c+ to lift a heald z ! fir/ drops2 x ?us saves "t & increases spe$4 ,9 s+le lift ma*9es only "o knife is us$1 & 9 case ( a heald hav+ to be rais$ two picks 9 succession1 x w\ld h to be dropp$ to ! bottom ( ! %$ aft] ! fir/ pick1 & rais$ aga94 ,a d\ble lift ,keighley is (t5 call$1 9 error1 a s+le lift1 9 consequ5ce ( only "o %$d+ rod be+ us$2 x h[ev] lifts twice 9 "o complete /roke4 ,dobbies h ! advantage ov] tappets 9 increas$ p[] ( weav+ fanci] clo?s1 a great] numb] ( picks to ! r\nd1 & a possibility ( *ang+ to o!r patt]ns4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a4 ,,fig4 ,b4 ,,fig4 ,c4 ,,plate ,,vii4 ,to face pp4 #ajd & #aje4 ,! lead+ *>act]i/ic ( dobbies is1 t by means ( pegs plac$ 9 revolv+ lattices1 any heald c be select$ & rais$ by ! ma*9e4 ,! fav\rite dobby is ! improv$ ,keighley1 fir/ pat5t$ 9 #ahfg by ,messrs4 ,hatt]sley ,smi?1 ( t t[n--x 0 us$ to a consid]able ext5t1 b rec5t improvem5ts h greatly increas$ its value4 ,plate ,,vii4 & ,fig4 #dh %[ a g5]al view ( ! ma*9e--"o ( ,h5ry ,livesey's1 ,limit$1 make1 on ,w>d's pr9ciple1 #bj jacks1 d\ble lift4 ,at ! "u side is se5 a pegg$ lattice2 imm$iately above ! pegs & re/+ on ! topmo/ lag is a r[ ( lev]s1 d\ble ! numb] ( %afts or jacks repres5t+ ! capacity4 ,! ,t knife lev] works on ! c5tre %[n1 & slides ! knives backw>ds & =w>ds 9 grooves at ,a & ,b4 ,! jacks to :i* at "o end ! heald cords are atta*$ h at ! o!r end lat*es fix$ to !m1 :i* are out ( ! way ( ! slid+ knives1 unless purposely dropp$ on to !m4 ,:5 a lag is 9 ge> )\t any pegs1 none ( ! lat*es t\* ! knives1 & !re is consequ5tly no rais+ ( ! healds4 ,if all ! holes be pegg$1 "o end ( ea* lev] is rais$1 ! o!r end depress$1 & consequ5tly all ! lat*es drop on ! knives2 at ! next /roke ( :i* all ! healds w be lift$4 ,by pegg+ a few ( ! holes1 say ! #a/1 #crd1 & #aj?1 we %\ld f9d only ^? ?ree healds lift$2 9 ?is mann] any desir$ work+ ( ! healds may be obta9$4 ,! lattice is made up ( lags1 ea* ( :i* suffices = two picks1 & z ! b>rel ( ! dobby w n hold less ?an #h lags1 a patt]n ( #af picks or m is requir$1 unless a small] patt]n be repeat$4 ,9 pegg+1 ! lags are plac$ s t ! lattice /&s z 9 ! ma*9e1 ?us3-- ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #di4 ,numb]s #a to #aj indicate ! picks2 ,l #a to ,l #e indicate ! lags4 ,9 a left-h& ma*9e ! numb]s "h giv5 7,fig4 #di7 repres5t ! ord] ( ! picks1 ! lattice :5 9 use mov+ ov] to ! left4 ,b indicates ! peg-hole = ! back-jack1 ! front or fir/ jack be+ at ,a1 & ! o!r holes rang+ betwe52 !re are two r[s ( holes on ea* lag1 ea* equal to #a pick4 ,tak+ ,fig4 #cg1 %[+ lift+ plan :i* occupies #e healds & #h picks1 ! pegg+ = ?is dobby w be z "u1 ! small numb] indicat+ :]e ! peg is plac$ & :i* jack is lift$1 ! picks be+ also indicat$3-- ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ej4 ,,pegg+ ,,= ,,honeycomb1 ,,left-,,h& ,,dobby4 ,z at lea/ #af picks are requir$1 a lattice w\ld be prep>$ = #h lags1 #d be+ a repeat ( ^? giv54 ,= ! o!r h& ( dobby ! pegg+ w\ld comm5ce at ! "r h& = ! fir/ pick1 & move t[>ds ! left4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ea4 ,! tie-up1 %[n 9 ,fig4 #ch1 ,a1 is correct pegg+ = a "r-h& ,keighley or ,w>d dobby1 z is also #cd1 ,b4 ,among o!r makes ( %$d+ ma*9es ! common dobby or wit* ma*9e may be m5tion$4 ,x is ( e>li] inv5tion ?an ! ,keighley1 pat5ts hav+ be5 tak5 out = x at v>y+ dates f #ahcj to #ahej4 ,9 x ! knives slide v]tically2 !re are two lattices1 all ! odd picks be+ on "o side1 ! ev5 ones on ! o!r1 & a peg indicates a fall]--contr>ily to ! ,keighley4 ,a sket* ( a d\ble-lift ma*9e on ?is sy/em1 call$ by ! mak]s a ,blackburn dobby1 is %[n at ,fig4 #ea4 ,! connection ( ! jacks ) ! lift+ knives is made by hook$ wires1 #b wires to ea* jack4 ,:]e !re is no peg ^! hooks are 9 position ov] ! knives2 ?us1 :i*ev] knife %\ld lift1 ! jack w be lift$ by "o ( ! two hooks4 ,:]e !re is a peg1 h[ev]1 ! wire is press$ back slightly1 suffici5tly s z to remove ! hook at ! top ( ! wire away f ! knife2 & !re is no lift = ! jack to :i* ! wire is atta*$4 ,! pegg+ = a ,blackburn dobby ( patt]n ,fig4 #cb is %[n 9 ,fig4 #eb1 :i* repres5ts six jacks & f\r lags on ea* side ( ! ma*9e1 a lag 9 ! ,blackburn dobby only c>ry+ ! pegs = "o pick4 ,! l>ge figures indicate ! picks & ! small] ones ! jack pegg$ = ! picks aga9/ :i* !y /&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eb4 ,! ,keighley is g5]ally pref]r$ by practical m5 = its /r5g? & less liability ( gett+ dis>rang$ or brok54 ,o!r makes ( dobbies are made1 resembl+ 9 pr9ciple "o or o!r ( ! types giv54 ,,clo?s ,,wov5 ,,on ,,! ,,dobby ,include all makes f pla9 to #dj-%aft patt]ns4 ,/ripe patt]ns ( ! "* describ$ on page #aja are frequ5t2 inde$1 ?is %$d+ motion is useful = /ave "w ( all k9ds1 includ+3-- ,spots or ,brilliantes--- ,small figures wov5 9 ! fabric at regul> int]vals1 (t5 made f #aj to #ad %afts1 on a pla9 gr\nd4 ,also1 cotton dress mat]ials wov5 9 figur$ /ripes1 or a comb9ation ( /ripes to =m figur$ *ecks1 spot figures1 sat9 /ripes & *ecks1 spot figures on pla9 sat9 or oatmeal gr\nd--! latt] weave be+ us$ frequ5tly 9 fancy clo?s wov5 ) co>se y>n1 ! effect be+ to %[ %ort float+ ends app>5tly irregul>ly on ! face ( ! clo?1 & ?us a r\gh appe>ance is imp>t$4 ,! oatmeal weave is 9 diff]5t /yles up to #dj-%aft4 ,d\ble clo? is n n[ (t5 made 9 cotton1 except = pill[ slips1 light bags1 & simil> clo?s4 ,! semi-d\ble clo? ( ! ,york%ire trade1 =m$ by hav+ an extra weft or w>p = putt+ a *eap back to ! clo?s1 is n kn[n 9 ,lanca%ire2 ! extra weft ( ! velvete5 be+ mo/ ne>ly approa*+ ! pr9ciple4 ,9 pla91 d\ble clo? weav+1 bo? w>ps are on "o beam1 f\r healds be+ employ$1 ea* movable1 indep5d5t ( ! o!rs4 ,two healds c>ry ! top clo? ends & two ! bottom clo?4 ,! %uttle fir/ puts a pick 9 ! top clo?1 pass+ ov] ?ree ends out ( f\r1 all ! ends = ! bottom clo? be+ d[n & half ( ! top clo? ends2 !n all ! top clo? ends are rais$ ) half ( ! bottom clo? ends1 ! %uttle pass+ "u ?ree out ( f\r1 & ?r[+ a pick into ! bottom clo?4 ,! ends ( ! top clo? are drawn 9 ! fir/ & second healds1 ^? = ! bottom 9 ! ?ird & f\r?1 ?us3-- ,b------#d ,b--#c---- ,t----#b-- ,t-#a----- & are lift$ z "u3-- ,! pegg+ be+-- #d? pick ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c 4 99 4 4 #crd pick ,no4 #b 4 4 4 99 #bnd pick ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #d 4 99 99 99 #a/ pick ,no4 #a 99 99 4 99 #a #b #c #d ,! selvages are b\nd by ! weft pass+ f ! upp] to ! l[] clo?s1 & vice v]s4 ,9 "s clo?1 = bags1 pla9 weav+ ( all ! ends is resort$ to at c]ta9 po9ts to seam up ! clo?4 ,a ?ree-/ave twill weave may be us$ by arrang+ ! draft & pegg+ = six healds or a five-?read sat9 on t5 healds4 ,,figur$ ,,dhooties4 ,9 no /ripe patt]n1 p]haps1 is ! dobby m g5]ally us$ ?an 9 ^! clo?s4 ,!y diff] f ! ord9>y pla9 dhootie 9 hav+ col\r$ ends wov5 to a patt]n along ea* selvage1 or occasionally #ab or #ae in*es f ! side also4 ,! patt]ns at ea* side are balanc$--t is1 simil> 9 figure1 ) ! inn] "p ( ! figure at "o side be+ also ! inn] "p at ! o!r side4 ,?is /yle ( clo? may be describ$ z figure ) extra w>p1 = ! pla9 weave ext5ds "u ! figure1 ! figur+ ends be+ 8cramp$0 betwe5 ! pla9s1 & b\nd by pass+ ?r\gh ! pla9 clo?4 ,9 design+ = ^! ! pla9 end may be neglect$4 ,! wid? ( ! col\r$ bord] is g5]ally ab\t #a in*1 al?\gh ext5d+ to #d in*es 9 special cases4 ,! beams are w>p$ 9 ! mann] describ$ = pla9 dhooties1 b only ! grey ends are drawn 9 ! healds ) any col\r$ w>p :i* has to weave pla94 ,! ends :i* =m ! patt]n are drawn ?r\gh h>ness compos$ ( sep>ate lea%es & mail eyes1 ea* ) an ela/ic ?read ti$ to !m4 ,^! we w ref] to z ! lea%es4 ,!y are plac$ beh9d ! healds & ti$ z requir$ to ! jacks above2 ! ela/ic cords are fix$ to a bracket bel[1 s z to draw d[n ! lea% aft] ! %$d+4 ,above ! mail eye is fix$ a cumb] bo>d p]=at$ ) r[s ( small holes1 & us$ = keep+ ! lea%es 9 prop] ord]1 s z n to become entangl$ 9 ! weav+4 ,a cle> patt]n is a great desid]atum 9 ?is clo?1 consequ5tly x is g5]ally wov5 face d[n to prev5t spoil+ face by droop+ ends4 ,9 pegg+ = x ! wrong side ( ! clo? is tak51 a patt]n ( x obta9$ f ! col\r$ figur+ ends only 9 ! usual way1 & draft$ on ! requir$ numb] ( jacks4 ,! lea%es are drawn ?r\gh ! cumb] bo>d ab\t #f 9 ea* r[1 b s arrang$ z to h all ^? to be ti$ to "o jack draft$ toge!r4 ,! ends are drawn ?r\gh at ! draw]-9's frame1 & ! lea%es hav+ be5 previ\sly loop$ 9 bun*es1 ea* bun* conta9+ ^? int5d$ = "o jack1 ! beam is ready = ! loom4 ,9 gait+ up1 ! col\r$ ends (t5 pass ov] a small special back re/1 & ! bun*es ( lea%es are ti$ to _! respective jacks4 ,by pegg+ ! dobby 9 ! requir$ ord] any desir$ jack or jacks may be rais$1 & ^? ends kept above ! pla9 clo?4 ,:5 ! jacks are l[]$ back ! same ends w weave bel[ ! pla9 clo?4 ,! body ( ! clo? is g5]ally ( pla9 weave1 al?\gh /ripe & *eck patt]ns are occasionally introduc$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ec4 ,,gauze ,,& ,,l5o ,,clo?4 ,?is class ( fabric is frequ5tly wov5 by means ( ! dobby1 al?\gh ! tappet & jacqu>d are occasionally us$ %\ld ! patt]n come )9 ! scope ( ei!r4 ,! peculi>ity ( gauze is1 t "s ( ! w>p ends cross ov] "o or m ( ! o!r w>p ends betwe5 ! picks1 giv+ an op5 fabric1 sometimes ( a beautifully delicate nature1 & yet /rong1 consid]+ ! small am\nt ( mat]ial us$4 ,:5 gauze weav+ is comb9$ ) pla9 x is /yl$ l5o4 ,! latt] "n is sometimes errone\sly atta*$ to ! gauze itself4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ed4 ,fig4 #ec %[s a pure gauze 9 plan1 & ,fig4 #ed ! same 9 section4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ee4 ,fig4 #ee is ! plan ( a l5o4 ,! ?reads m>k$ heavily 9 ea* case are ! cross+ ?reads4 ,x w be not$ f ,fig4 #ed t ! cross+ ?read passes up alt]nately at ea* side ( ! back+ ?read1 pick by pick4 ,! op]ation ( cross+ is p]=m$ by d\p healds4 ,9 ^! an additional loop or half heald c>ry+ a /ave at ! bottom is slung ?r\gh ! eye ( an ord9>y heald 7,fig4 #eg74 ,= ! purpose ( description1 ! :ole ( ?is heald w be t]m$ ! d\p4 ,?is heald is us$ = cross+ purposes1 :ile two or m ord9>y healds are provid$ = ! purpose ( v>y+ ! work+1 if necess>y4 ,! draft = clo?s1 ,figs4 #ec & #ee1 is z %[n by ,fig4 #ef4 ,! cross+ ?read is drawn ?r\gh two healds & passes "u ! back+ ?read z %[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ef4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eg4 ,h[ev]1 ! heald ,no4 #b c be us$ to raise ! cross+ ?read on ! left-h& side ( ! back+ ?read1 al?\gh x is drawn to ! "r ( x at ! front1 z :5ev] ! back heald is lift$1 ! loose /ave ( ! d\p is lift$ also1 & ! cross+ ?read is ?us free to be wr\ght by ,no4 #b4 ,! weav+ ( ! pla9 is p]=m$ by ei!r ,no4 #b & ! d\p1 or by ,nos4 #a & #b4 ,9 weav+ ! gauze portion1 healds ,no4 #a & ! d\p are us$ only4 ,f\r jacks are requir$--"o = ! back heald1 "o = ,no4 #a heald1 "o = lift+ ! :ole d\p :5 weav+ gauze1 & a f\r? = rais+ ! half loop :5 necess>y to release ! cross+ ?read4 ,to weave ! design ,fig4 #ee ) ! giv5 draft1 at ! bottom pick ,no4 #b heald & ! loop w be rais$1 at ! next pick above ! :ole d\p requires lift+1 at ! ?ird ,no4 #b & ! loop1 at ! f\r? ! d\p1 at ! fif? ,no4 #b & ! loop1 at ! six? ! pla9 comm5ces & ! d\p is rais$1 at ! sev5? ,no4 #a is rais$1 eigh? ! d\p1 n9? ,no4 #a1 t5? ! d\p1 :i* completes ! patt]n1 ! elev5? be+ a repeat ( ! fir/4 ,x is n necess>y t ! cross+ %\ld be r\nd "o ?read only1 b may be r\nd ?ree or f\r2 to d ?is1 ( c\rse1 ! cross+ ?read w\ld h to be drawn "u ?ree or f\r back+ ends 9 ! healds4 ,! cross+ may also be 9 opposite directions1 say-- ,illu/ration3 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 ,,fig4 #eh4 z 9 ,fig4 #ei1 :]e ! cross+ ?read passes ov] two back+ ends4 ,e alt]nate end is1 9 ?is case1 d\p$ contr>ily1 ! same healds be+ us$--! diff]5ce be+ made 9 ! draft4 ,?is /yle is call$ nett+4 ,all ! patt]ns hi!rto m5tion$ h be5 s+le d\ps4 ,a m highly-ornam5tal class ( goods is made 9 d\ble-d\p$ clo?4 ,"h two-d\p healds are us$1 &1 consequ5tly1 half ( ! cross+ ?reads may be weav+ pla9 at ! same picks t ! o!rs are d\p+1 & !n a rev]sal is made--! fir/ half comm5c+ to d\p :ile ! o!r section is weav+ pla94 ,?us1 *eck patt]ns are made alt]nately gauze & pla94 ,d\ble-d\p$ nett+ & /ripe patt]ns may also be made4 ,) a s+le d\p1 only /ripe patt]ns may be produc$ ) ! gauze runn+ ei!r transv]sely or longitud9ally4 ,= m complicat$ patt]ns ?ree or ev5 f\r d\ps are employ$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ei4 ,gauze patt]ns are n g5]ally m>k$ on pap] z are o!r fabrics1 b sket*$ ?us3-- ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fj4--;,,gauze ,,sket*4 ,,h&k]*iefs4 ,h&k]*iefs are made 9 cotton1 ei!r by ! drop-box1 ! dobby1 or by a h&k]*ief motion4 ,we are ref]r+ n[ to ^? made )\t col\r1 ) ribb$ side & cross bord]s4 ,a /ripe bord] is made by w>p+ ! necess>y co>se ends 7to =m ! selvage7 ) ! pla9 ends4 ,to put 9 ! cross bord]1 ei!r ! drop-box loom is us$ ) two or m %uttles hav+ diff]5t c\nts ( y>n1 or1 z is m g5]al1 ! %$ is kept op5 = ! reception ( sev]al picks ( weft 9 ! same c\nts z ! body ( ! h&k]*ief4 ,?is is easily done by ! dobby1 :i* also cont9ues to hold ! weft at ea* selvage by a few pla9 ends work$ f a diff]5t jack1 or by a cat* cord4 ,x is impossible to h a lattice ) z _m lags z !re are picks f head+ to head+1 consequ5tly lags are pegg$ to weave ! head+ only1 ! lattice be+ /opp$ dur+ ! "t t ! pla9 body ( ! h&k]*ief is be+ wov54 ,9 ! d\ble-lift dobby x is possible to /op x1 s t ! pegg+ ( ! lags :]e ! motion ( ! lattice is arre/$ w suffice to weave pla9 until motion is aga9 communicat$ to ! lattice4 ,sometimes a special h&k]*ief motion is us$4 ,9 ?is arrangem5t a *a9 ( lags is arrang$1 ea* lag hav+ holes = ?ree pegs4 ,by means ( ?is motion1 :i* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #fa1 8a bord] c be obta9$ )\t drop-boxes or dobby1 & )\t r$uc+ ! spe$ ( ! loom4 ,! tappets1 :i* are ( ! usual =m = pla9 weav+1 are n secur$ to ! tappet %aft1 b are driv5 f x ?r\gh ! m$ium ( a clut*1 :i*1 :5 dis5gag$1 all[s ! %aft to cont9ue revolv+ :il/ ! tappets rema9 /ation>y2 !reby enabl+ any requir$ numb] ( picks1 ev5 or odd1 to be put into ! same %$1 accord+ to ! l5g? ( "t !y are kept 9 ?is condition4 ,! clut* is "u ! control ( a set ( lattice1 :i* cause ! dis5gagem5t ( ! clut*1 & a succession ( pegs causes ! tappets to rema9 out ( action accord+ to ! desir$ numb] ( picks requir$40 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fa4--;,,h&k]*ief ,,loom4 ,to face pp4 #aaf & #aag4 ,! o!r pegs regulate1 secondly1 ! /oppage ( ! take-up to give a bett] def9$ rib2 & ?irdly to /op ! *a9 itself :5 necess>y4 ,! *a9 only repres5ts ! picks 9 ! head+1 & is /opp$ dur+ ! pla9 weav+ ( ! body4 ,x is />t$ aga9 by an +5i\s measur+ motion1 :i* by a contrivance ( lev]s />ts ! *a9 "o pick1 aft] :i* ! cat* put out ( ge> by peg ?ree cont9ues ! motion4 ,! mak]s claim = ?is motion a high rate ( spe$1 & a l[ fir/ co/ ( app>atus4 ,illu/ration3 ,decoration ,,*apt] ,,vii4 ,,fancy ,,weav+ ,,by ,,! ,,jacqu>d1 ,,its ,,con/ruction1 ,,c>d ,,cutt+1 ,,wov5 ,,pile ,,clo?s4 ,! jacqu>d ma*9e = %$d+ is employ$ 9 ! production ( "s ( ! mo/ complicat$ cotton fabrics t are wov54 ,9 its prim>y pr9ciple x is v simple1 /rangely s :5 we reflect on its importance 9 ! manufactur+ indu/ry1 & t by x only are we enabl$ to make s v ornam5tal clo?s ( great ext5t & beauty4 ,orig9ally a ,fr5* inv5tion1 ! contrivance ( ,joseph ,m>ie ,jacqu>d1 ( ,lyons1 x 0 introduc$ into ,engl& 9 ! e>ly "p ( ?is c5tury & adopt$ by ! silk manufactur]s4 ,its manufacture 0 e>ly tak5 up by ,lanca%ire firms1 & we f9d n[ t 9 improv$ =ms x is 9 ext5sive practical use 9 ! cotton trade at ! fancy weav+ e/abli%m5ts ( ,bolton1 ,a%ton1 ,pre/on1 ,glasg[1 & o!r t[ns4 ,,! ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9e4 ,! advantage ( ?is motion is 9 its enorm\s capacity or scope ( v>i$ work+ ( ! ends4 ,:5 we are aw>e ( ! exi/5ce ( #abjj hook jacqu>ds1 ! capacity ( :i* is equal to t ( #cj dobbies ( #dj jacks ea*1 or giv+ #fjj times z _m diff]5t work+s ( ! ends z a pla9 tappet1 we imm$iately recognise its value4 ,x is a ma*9e = automatically select+ out ( may be ?\s&s ( ?reads ! end or ends requir$ to give a desir$ effect 9 ! clo?4 ,a repres5tation ( its simple/ =m is %[n 9 ,fig4 #fb4 ,illu/ration3 ,cumb] ,bo>d ,tak+ a #djj hook ma*9e1 ! commone/ size us$ = cotton weav+1 we f9d a r[ ( #h ne$les or lances ,e ( ?9 wire1 arrang$ horizontally2 at ! left h& we see ea* ( ^! atta*$ to a spr+ 9 ! spr+ box ,a1 ! o!r end project+ ab\t #c_/h-;in* ?r\gh a ne$le bo>d ,b4 ,ea* lance regulates a v]tical wire hook$ top & bottom1 & %[n ) ea* upp] hook /&+ ov] its respective griffe or knife ,c4 ,^! griffes1 eight 9 numb]1 are lift$ simultane\sly ?r\gh be+ connect$ toge!r at ! ends4 ,! l[] end ( ! hook re/s on a wire grid ,j1 slott$ s z to all[ ! l[] end ( ! hooks--to :i* are atta*$ ! neck cords ,f--to pass ?r\gh4 ,a bottom bo>d bel[ ! b5d is us$ = ^? ma*9es :i* h no wire grid4 ,to ^! neck cords is atta*$ ! h>ness--i4e41 l95 ?reads or lea%es1 "s sev5 feet 9 l5g?1 c>ry+ a brass mail-eye ,h1 ?r\gh :i* ! end ( w>p is drawn4 ,j above ! mail-eye ! h>ness passes ?r\gh a cumb] bo>d ,c1 = ! purpose ( keep+ 9 prop] ord] & regulat+ ! numb] ( lea%es p] in*4 ,at ! bottom ( ea* lea% is fix$ a metal weight1 call$ a l+o1 int5d$ to pull ! lea% d[n aft] hav+ be5 rais$ to =m ! %$4 ,! me?od ( rais+ ! ends is z foll[s3--,a squ>e cyl9d] is plac$ at ,d1 & makes a qu>t] ( a revolution at ea* pick4 ,?is cyl9d] c>ries a set ( c>ds 7,n#a1 ,n#b1 ,n#c71 %eets ( c>dbo>d p]=at$ 9 places4 ,suppos+ a #djj 7#djh7 ma*9e is ref]r$ to1 ea* c>d has space = #djh p]=ations1 ! holes correspond+ 9 position ) ! ends ( ! #djh ne$les project+ ?r\gh ! ne$le bo>d4 ,a hole indicates a lift4 ,,! ,,c>ds4 ,! c>ds are only p]=at$ by gr\ps ( holes di/ribut$ incid5tally1 & :]e no p]=ation is made ! ne$les at t po9t are pu%$ back #c_/h-;in* by ! cyl9d]4 ,?is is suffici5t to remove ! tops ( ! correspond+ hooks atta*$ to ^! ne$les f _! position ov] ! griffe2 ?us1 :5 ?is knife or griffe is lift$ x does n actuate ^! hooks1 b only ^? :i* 7 n pu%$ back by ! cyl9d] & c>d4 ,suppose1 = in/ance1 "o hook out ( f\r _h to be lift$1 !n #ajb p]=ations w\ld be made 9 ! c>d1 & #cjf hooks w\ld ?us be press$ back1 :il/ #ajb only w\ld be lift$4 ,! holes 9 ^! c>ds c be cut 9 any ord]1 & z "o c>d acts = "o pick only1 x is easy to realise ! ext5t ( ! patt]ns :i* may be made2 a clo?1 = example1 requir+ #bjj picks to ! r\nd1 all ( :i* may be diff]5t 9 ! ord] or numb] ( ends lift$1 w\ld require a set ( #bjj c>ds4 ,9 :at is call$ a #djj ma*9e1 #djh hooks are us$1 ! ne$les be+ arrang$ 9 #ea r[s ( #h ea*2 "o r[ only is %[n 9 ,fig4 #fb1 ?us ! o!rs are arrang$ at ! back ( ! "o %[n & 9 l9e ) x4 ,a #ajj ma*9e is 9 r[s ( #d4 ,a #bjj 7#bjd7 ma*9e is 9 r[s ( #d or #h4 ,a #cjj 7#cjd7 #f1 #h or #ab4 ,a #fjj 7#fab7 #ab4 ,an #hjj 7#haf7 #h 7usually #b_/djj's74 ,a #abjj 7#abbd7 #ab 7usually #b_/fjj's74 ,! knives are plac$ on ! slant s t _! edge m readily cat*es ! hook 9 lift+1 :ile _! "u side presses ! hooks out ( ! way :5 dropp+4 ,to place #djh hooks 9 "o r[ is ( c\rse out ( ! "q1 & = compactness !y are plac$ 9 #ea upright r[s ( #h's2 ?is advantage is m app>5t 9 #ahjj hook ma*9es--! l>ge/ made4 ,! ma*9e is fix$ to a gantree above ! loom 7,frontispiece71 & 9 a s+le-action jacqu>d motion1 su* z has j be5 describ$1 ! knife is rais$ by a lev] ov] ! ma*9e1 work$ by an upright rod driv5 by an ecc5tric or crank on ! crank-%aft1 s z to give "o lift = e pick4 ,! cyl9d] is susp5d$ to a batt5 sw++ f ! top1 & also work$ by connection ) ! crank-%aft4 ,! movem5t ( ! cyl9d] is to & fro2 z x is mov+ f ! ne$le bo>d "o corn] is caught by a lat* & ! cyl9d] p>tially revolves1 br++ ano!r c>d to face ! ne$les1 aga9/ :i* x is !n press$4 ,! batt5 type is pref]able to ! slid+ cyl9d]1 :i* is only us$ 9 %$s :]e ! build+ r5d]s ! slid+ cyl9d] m applicable4 ,! frame "w ( ! batt5 is m solid & /rong4 ,,s+le ,,& ,,d\ble ,,lift4 ,9 ! s+le-lift jacqu>d1 ! knife has to lift z (t5 z ! loom picks1 & %\ld a hook require to be rais$ sev]al picks 9 succession1 x has to be dropp$ betwe5 ea* pick & rais$ aga94 ,^! defects are oblit]at$ 9 ! d\ble-action jacqu>d4 ,! ma*9e1 ,fig4 #fd1 has two hooks to ea* ne$le1 !y be+ connect$ at ! bottom to "o neck cord4 ,two sets ( knives are us$1 "o lift+ :5 ! loom picks f ! "r-h& side1 ! o!r :5 pick+ f ! left1 ?us r$uc+ ! spe$ ( ! knife "o-half2 :il/ z ! hooks = "o pick are be+ us$1 ! o!r knife c be prep>+ = ! next %$1 & :5 lift+1 keep up any lea% sev]al picks 9 succession1 ?us sav+ "t1 & s enabl+ ! production to be increas$4 ,! ,fig4 #fd %[s a d\ble-action ma*9e ) a s+le cyl9d]1 #djj hooks & sw+ batt51 giv+ at lea/ #ej picks p] m9ute great] spe$ ?an a s+le lift ) less vibration & /ra94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fc4 ,fig4 #fc %[s ! diff]5t %apes ( jacqu>d ne$les1 ,a be+ ! ord9>y "o 9 plan1 ,b ano!r view ( ! same1 ,c ! d\ble-action "o1 & ,d ano!r /yle ( s+le-action ne$le4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fd4 ,,d\ble-,,action ,,jacqu>d1 ,,s+le ,,cyl9d]4 ,! spe$ may /ill fur!r be increas$ by hav+ a d\ble-action ma*9e ) d\ble cyl9d]s & two sets ( ne$les & hooks 7see ,fig4 #fe74 ,9 ?is sy/em two sets ( c>ds are employ$1 all ! odd picks on "o cyl9d] & ! ev5 ones on ! o!r--?us1 ! cyl9d]s only revolve at half ! spe$1 caus+ less vibration & giv+ an increase ( #bj picks p] m9ute4 ,if requisite1 ?is ma*9e c also be arrang$ z a comp\nd or cross-bord] ma*9e1 c>ry+ two sets ( c>ds ( diff]5t patt]ns1 only "o set 9 use at once1 :ile1 by pull+ a h&le1 ! o!r set c be actuat$ in/ead1 s z to weave an entirely diff]5t patt]n 9 ! clo?--e4g41 9 ! head+ ( a tableclo?1 %awl1 or h&k]*ief4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fe4 ,,d\ble-,,action ,,jacqu>d1 ,,d\ble ,,cyl9d]4 ,,ties4 ,!re are two arrangem5ts ( ! ma*9e--! ,london arrangem5t be+ be/1 9 :i* case ! c>ds & c>d race are at ! loom side & 9 bett] view4 ,fig4 #fb %[s ?is sy/em4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 m /ra9 on ! h>ness1 z ! %ort r[s ( hooks are at "r angles to ! %ort r[s 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 ?us3-- ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ff4 ,9 ! ,norwi* arrangem5t1 ! ma*9e is plac$ s t ! c>ds come ov] ! head ( ! weav] or ov] ! beam1 & ! %ort r[s ( #h 9 ! hooks correspond ) ! %ort r[s ( #h 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 & ?us ! h>ness is kept /raight4 ,! cumb] bo>d is a frame conta9+ slips--pieces ( wood ) holes bor$ 9 r[s2 9 a #djj ma*9e1 r[s ( #h2 9 a #fjj1 r[s ( #ab4 ,?r\gh ^! ! lea%es are pass$1 & ! w>p ends almo/ always drawn 9 /raight draft ?r\gh ! mail eyes4 ,jacqu>d patt]ns are g5]ally v>i$ by ! lift+ only1 & ! sole v>iation correspond+ to ! draft 9 /ave "w is ! tie-up4 ,!re are ?ree ties-- #a4 ,/raight4--,9 ?is ea* hook has "o end only atta*$ to x1 & ! tie is z "u4 ,! rectangle repres5ts ! ne$le bo>d2 ! dots1 ! ne$les2 & ! numb]s1 ! end to :i* ! hook on ! ne$le is atta*$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fg4 ,nos4 #a to #h w be 9 ! fir/ r[ ( ! cumb] bo>d to ! left-h& side ( ! clo?4 #b4 ,a ,lay-ov] ,tie 7! commone/74--,x is ! same ?+1 except t two or m patt]ns are wov5 9 ! wid? ( ! clo?1 say ?ree4 ,!n ?ree ends w\ld be atta*$ to ea* neck cord1 & 9 a #djj ma*9e #abjj ends w\ld be us$4 ,! cumb] bo>d plan w\ld be repeat$ ?rice4 ,= example1 a patt]n on #i hooks-- ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fh4 ,fig4 #fb %[s a portion ( a lay-ov] tie1 ! ends atta*$ to ! fir/ r[ ( hooks be+ 9 ! fir/ r[ 9 ! cumb] bo>d1 & ! patt]n be+ complet$ on #djj ends2 ! #dja's1 etc41 are atta*$ to ! fir/1 etc4 #c4 ,a ,c5tr$ ,tie4--,:5 a patt]n ( #hae ends is 9 two equal & balanc$ portions1 ! middle end ( ! clo? is ti$ to ! hook at ! "r side1 & two ends to e o!r hook1 ! patt]n ?us be+ wov5 on #djh hooks1 e4g4-- ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fi4 ,9 h>ness build+ or m\nt+1 consid]able +5uity has to be display$ 9 keep+ ! lea%es 9 prop] ord]1 & 9 knott+ ! h>ness to ! neck cord s z to produce a small b /rong jo9t4 ,! w>p is drawn ?r\gh ! mails aft] ! beam has be5 slung at ! loom4 ,,! ,,%$4 ,a jacqu>d %$ pres5ts a diff]5t appe>ance to a pla9 loom %$--! l>ge ov]head ma*9es d>k5+ ! sc5e4 ,:]e ! weav] is expect$ to m9d f\r looms1 only ab\t half ! looms are jacqu>d$1 & !n only :5 ! simpl] /yles are wov51 inde$ "o jacqu>d out ( f\r looms is consid]$ suffici5t = mo/ clo?s4 ,9 ! mills :]e all ! looms are engag$ on jacqu>d clo?s1 "o weav] _c att5d to f\r looms4 ,comp>$ ) pla9 goods1 ! prep>ation ma*9]y = jacqu>d "w possesses no peculi>ity4 ,! p[] requir$ to drive is great]1 ! weav]'s "w g5]ally less labori\s & m intricate1 ! w>ps weave bett] z !y are siz$ m lightly1 & also ! h>ness gives way to ! %uttle or to any ob/ruction bett] ?an healds2 ! highe/ spe$ = m$ium wid?s is ab\t #bjj 9 d\ble cyl9d]--d\ble lift4 ,x is important t no picks be miss$2 !re=e1 9 />t+ a loom1 ! c>ds mu/ be turn$ back to _! prop] position4 ,?is is done by rev]s+ motion4 ,,c>d ,,cutt+ ,,& ,,repeat+4 ,! me?od ( transf]r+ designs to design pap] is describ$ on page #ic4 ,aft] ! design has be5 f9i%$ ! c>ds h to be cut4 ,! fir/ set is prep>$ 9 a piano c>d-cutt+ ma*9e1 ! place :]e ! hole has to be made be+ read f ! design--?us1 if = ! fir/ pick ! #a1 #b1 #i1 #ae1 #ah1 #cj1 #ca1 #cb1 #cc & #dj hooks h to be rais$1 holes w\ld be made z "u1 look+ at ! face ( ! c>d or ! side :i* is 9 contact ) ! ne$les-- #a #i 4 4 #cc 4 #b 4 #ah 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,numb]s 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,! left-h& side "h is indicat+ holes4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ! "r on ! ma*9e4 4 4 4 #cj 4 4 4 #ae 4 #ca 4 4 4 4 4 #cb #dj 4 ,! piano c>d-cutt+ ma*9e is %[n at ,fig4 #gj4 ,! pun*es :i* make ! holes 9 ! c>d are op]at$ by ! att5dant's feet actuat+ a treadle1 b ! pun*es are regulat$ by 8 f+] press+ c]ta9 keys & ?us caus+ only ^? pun*es to be lock$ :]e holes are requir$4 ,!re are only suffici5t keys to cut ! %ort r[ ( #h at "o /roke4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gj4 ,aft] "o set ( c>ds has be5 cut f ! design1 any numb] ( sets c be made f x on a repeat+ ma*9e4 ,! orig9al set is plac$ on a jacqu>d cyl9d] & actuates ! ne$les 9 ! ord9>y mann]1 except+ t ! hooks are pu%$ on ! knives by ! blanks 9 ! c>d4 ,^! hooks are atta*$ to pun*es1 & at ea* /roke ( ! knives a c>d is cut1 a duplicate ( ! orig9al "o !n on ! lant]n face4 ,! holes are cut by ! pun*es :i* are n lift$ & :i* are lock$ by w$ges at ea* /roke4 ,on ?is ma*9e c>ds c be repeat$ at ! rate ( #dj p] m9ute4 ,,ca/+ ,,out4 ,9 lay-ov] patt]ns a numb] ( ends are ti$ to "o hook1 & if ! patt]n conta9s z _m ends z !re are hooks1 or "s factor ( ! numb]1 x is easy to calculate h[ _m %all be ti$4 ,9 a w>p ( #afjj ends 9 #djj ma*9e1 & #djj ends 9 ! patt]n1 f\r w\ld be ti$ to ea* hook4 ,) #ajj ends 9 ! patt]n !re w\ld be #af ends simil>1 :i*1 h[ev]1 w\ld be divid$ betwe5 ! f\r patt]ns repres5t+ ! capacity ( ! ma*9e1 /ill giv+ f\r ends to a hook4 ,we are suppos+ t any hooks ov] #djj1 #fjj1 #hjj1 etc41 are use = selvage4 ,h[ev]1 suppose !re are #fd ends 9 ! patt]n1 ! ma*9e w weave six patt]ns & h #af hooks to sp>e1 :i* w\ld be ca/ out-- #f #fd #chd #af #djj4 ,"o r[ ( #h w\ld be ca/ 9 ! middle & ano!r at ! end4 ,! #afjj ends1 neglect+ selvages1 w give #be complete patt]ns ( #fd ends ea* 9 ! wid? ( ! clo?2 ?is w give f\r ends & f\r patt]ns to ea* hook to five sets1 & five patt]ns or five ends to a hook1 9 ! six? set4 ,,jacqu>d ,,goods4 ,regul> clo?s v>y f small patt]ns on #bj ends & #bj picks to o!rs ) #bjjj ends & picks 9 a r\nd1 :ile = exceptional cases ^! limits are f> exce$$4 ,a feature ( _m jacqu>d clo?s is a figure m or less fanciful on a gr\nd :i* may be pla91 twill1 sat9 or oatmeal weave4 ,spots & brilliants are examples ( ?is /yle4 ,damasks are ext5sively made4 ,! true damask weave consi/s ( a design ( l>ge ext5t1 wov51 we w suppose1 ) weft pr$om9at+ 9 ! figure1 :i* may be b\nd by sat9 or twill weave4 ,! gr\nd is also 9 simil> weave1 b ) w>p pr$om9at+4 ,?us ! clo? is firmly b\nd at all p>ts ( its surface & is rev]sible4 ,! damasks wov5 9 cotton d n always fulfil ^! conditions1 b are 9 suffici5tly simil> /yle to w>rant _! be+ classifi$ toge!r4 ,frequ5tly !y are made 9 light goods ( ab\t #fj ends & picks p] in* = export to ,*9a & o!r c\ntries1 or heavi] bo? 9 y>n & pick ) a f9] re$ = ! home trade4 ,^! goods are ( great v>iety ( patt]n & are g5]ally f9i%$ be=e use1 or1 z 9 ! case ( furniture & curta9 damasks1 dy$4 ,dimity is a clo? ( small] pret5sions ) reg>d to figure1 :i* is arrang$ 9 /ripe =m4 ,! clo? is firmly b\nd1 & ! figure some:at rais$1 :i* gives x an emboss$ effect4 ,brocades are jacqu>d clo?s ( f9e y>ns1 ! patt]n arrang$ 9 weft spot on pla9 gr\nd1 or n>r[ /ripes ( spott$ figures1 :i*1 :5 well f9i%$1 h a *>m+ effect4 ,! brocade is n limit$ to ! longitud9al /ripe or figure1 b may be arrang$ z a brocade *eck1 :ile ! gr\nd clo? 9 ei!r case may be ( pla9 weave4 ,a good effect is also produc$ by arrang+ ?is /yle 9 diamond figures by introduc+ honeycomb diagonally4 ,figur$ canvas gives a pleas+ effect :5 dy$4 ,! figure is wov5 9 pla9 clo?1 & ! "w betwe5 ! figures %[s ! end cramp$ toge!r alt]nately ) op5 spaces1 s z to give an op5 effect1 on :i* ! figures %[ to advantage4 ,figur$ gauze clo?s are wov5 by ! jacqu>d4 ,?is indu/ry is c>ri$ on to a l>ge ext5t 9 ! cotton di/ricts ( ,scotl&4 ,! h>ness ( ! ma*9e is arrang$ ) d\p lea%es pass+ "u ! pla9 ends to ! cross+ ?read1 :i* is drawn ?r\gh a mail correspond+ to ! back /ave 9 heald gauze work+4 ,! gauze figures are %[n on a pla9 gr\nd & pres5t ! patt]n 9 op5 "w1 caus$ by ! peculi> int]tw9+ ( ! w>p ends indicat$ 9 a previ\s *apt]4 ,,c\nt]panes4 ,! jacqu>d is l>gely us$ 9 ! c\nt]pane & quilt indu/ry1 c5tr$ 9 ,bolton4 ,! ,m>seilles & toilet quilts1 ) :i* may be associat$ ! well-kn[n toilet clo?s1 are on ! d\ble-clo? pr9ciple--a good face ( pla9 weave 9 f9e y>ns be+ emboss$1 z x 71 by a ?ick s(t weft be+ wov5 und]nea? & atta*$ to ! clo? by additional w>p ?reads4 ,?is back+ weft sometimes floats outside ! clo?1 sometimes is b\nd inside j bel[ ! pla9 face1 & at o!r p>ts ! :ole ( ! y>n is firmly unit$4 ,:]e ! back+ is br\ght inside1 ! top clo? is rais$ up2 :il/ at ^? places :]e all ! ends are wov5 toge!r a depression is caus$4 ,l>ge emboss$ figures may ?us be %[n on ! clo?1 al?\gh x appe>s to h an unbrok5 surface4 ,a co>s] quality is made1 :]e bo? face & back wefts are co>se & f ! same cop4 ,p]*$ quilt+s are 9 ?is /yle1 b ! figures are small1 diamond-%ap$1 & regul>4 ,! honeycomb quilt1 z its "n implies1 is a clo? ) ! figures on its surface =m$ by rais$ ridges bo? w>p & weft way4 ,?is is g5]ally wov5 9 blea*$ knitt+ cottons1 two or ?ree-fold2 & z ) ?is weave o!rs may be comb9$1 & /ripes ( col\r$ wor/$ ins]t$1 great scope is giv5 to ! design]4 ,a ,grecian quilt is wov5 9 blea*$ knitt+ cottons1 & yet ! co>se ?reads give a smoo? glossy surface 9 consequ5ce ( ! weave be+ on ! damask pr9ciple--i4e41 ! figure may be =m$ 9 a weft sat9 :ile ! gr\nd is a w>p sat94 ,! ,alhambra quilts are figur$ 9 v>i\s designs & wov5 ) v>i-col\r$ y>ns4 ,,wov5 ,,pile ,,clo?s4 ,a class ( clo? has n[ to be ref]r$ to :i* does n usually come "u ! scope ( jacqu>d "w4 ,! velvete5 classes ( clo? h be5 describ$1 9 :i* ! pile is cut aft] ! clo? leaves ! loom4 ,!re is "o /yle ( pile clo?1 occasionally wov5 9 cotton1 9 :i* ! pile is cut :il/ 9 ! loom4 ,two beams are us$1 "o c>ry+ ! w>p = ! pile1 & ! o!r ! w>p = ! gr\nd clo? 9 :i* ! pile is b\nd4 ,a c\ple ( picks ( weft are ins]t$1 & !n a wire ab\t "o-tw5tie? ( an in* ?ick1 & ( v>y+ dep?1 consequ5t on ! l5g? ( pile requir$2 :5 ?is wire is beat5 up to ! fall ( ! clo?1 ! w>p is all[$ to be slack5$1 & x ?us =ms a loop on ! clo? face4 ,two m picks are ins]t$ & ano!r wire1 :i* is cont9u$4 ,! weav] sometimes draws ! wire out--leav+ loop$ clo?--or cuts x out along a groove1 9 :i* case a nap is caus$ on ! clo? face4 ,! be/ sy/em1 h[ev]1 is to employ special looms = ! purpose1 :i* n only ins]t ! wires 9 ! prop] %$1 b also draw !m out1 &1 z !y be> a %>p knife at ! f>!r end1 cut ! loops to =m pile 9 do+ s4 ,ano!r pile fabric ( cotton or l95 :i* has attract$ great] att5tion dur+ ! la/ few ye>s is ! ,turki% or ,t]ry t[el4 ,?is is wov5 ) two beams1 "o = ! loop pile1 & ! o!r c>ry+ ! gr\nd w>p1 :i* is always kept tight4 ,aft] two picks h be5 ins]t$ & tightly beat5 up1 ! re$ is all[$ to fly loose by a peculi> arrangem5t1 &1 bo? w>ps be+ kept tight1 two picks are put 9 )\t beat+ up4 ,!n ! re$ is fa/5$1 ! loop w>p slack5$1 & on ! next pick be+ beat5 up1 ! two previ\s ones are also driv5 home1 & ) !m ! loop w>p :i* /ood betwe5 ! fell & ! two neglect$ picks1 ?us =m+ loops on bo? sides ( ! clo?4 ,?is weave is n conf9$ to ! mak+ ( fabrics ) an unbrok5 pile surface1 b is adopt$ 9 /ripes = ba? t[els & wraps1 9 *ecks & ev5 figures = quilts1 comb9$ ) col\r 9 o!r effects1 & also wov5 alt]nately 9 "s special clo? ) entirely diff]5t patt]ns4 ,! head+s also = ! t[els are ( a firm] weave1 & af=d great scope = ornam5tation4 ,,*apt] ,,viii4 ,,drop-,,box ,,looms1 ,,/ripes1 ,,*ecks1 ,,& ,,spott+4 ,9 c]ta9 classes ( cotton fabrics /ripes are a lead+ feature ( ! clo?1 & are made ei!r 9 col\r or 9 diff]5t c\nts ( y>n1 or re$ or pick2 /ripes may run l5g?-way ( ! face z 9 dhooties1 s>ongs1 "s %irt+s1 regettas1 tape musl91 ticks1 & _m o!r clo?s1 & 9 ^! cases ! effect is produc$ simply by w>p+ & re$+ ! ends 9 ! requir$ ord]1 (t5 by v>y+ ! numb] ( ends 9 diff]5t d5ts4 ,,/ripes ,may run transv]sely1 & are !n =m$ by col\r$ or v>i-c\nt$ y>ns1 or a s]ies ( spots 9 col\r may be %[n on ! face ( ! clo?1 a /ripe ( extra weft be+ %[n at ! back ( ! clo? & br\ght ?r\gh to ! face z requir$4 ,9 ^! cases "s sy/em ( manipulat+ extra %uttles c>ry+ ! diff]5t wefts mu/ be adopt$4 ,,*ecks4 ,! ?ird class ) :i* ?is *apt] m especially deals is ! *eck$ clo?--g+hams1 ,ox=d & ,h>v>d %irt+s1 tape *ecks1 sat9 *ecks1 etc4 ,^! are all =m$ by comb9+ w>p /ripes ) weft /ripes ( correspond+ col\r & ext5t1 ?us =m+ squ>es ( col\r on ! fabric4 ,^! patt]ns may be =m$ 9 endless v>iety ( col\r1 weave1 or l5g?4 ,9 g+hams1 ! col\rs us$ are (t5 f\r or five 9 numb]--say #bj p9k ends1 #b black1 #f :ite1 #b black1 #f :ite1 #f black1 #f :ite1 #b black1 #f :ite1 #b black #eh ends 9 ! w>p patt]n1 :ile ! picks ( weft are 9 ! same col\rs1 numb]1 & ord]4 ,9 ! l>g] patt]ns ! numb] ( ends & picks may get into ! hundr$s4 ,f9e c\nts are (t5 us$4 ,9 %irt+s ( heavy mat]ial = ! home cotton & union mat]ial trade1 small] patt]ns are common]1 z !y are also 9 all ! 8zephyr0 class ( goods--su*1 = in/ance1 z %irt+1 w>p+ #ab :ite #bd's1 #b r$ #bj's1 #ab :ite #bd's1 #b blue #bj's2 weft same2 weave1 #d-;end ca%m]e twill4 ,9 :ite y>ns1 sat9 *ecks may be made ) sat9 /ripes on a pla9 gr\nd1 ! sat9 ends be+ 8cramp$0 9 ! re$1 & ! picks be+ ins]t$ 9 o!r y>n ( special sp9n+4 ,tape *ecks are simil>1 except+ t ! weave is pla9 all ?r\gh4 ,^! "o-col\r *ecks mu/ n be confus$ ) ! crossov]s & ! sat9 or o!r *ecks =m$ by ! same weft1 b heavi] 9 pick at places4 ,h&k]*iefs 9 col\r h ! appe>ance ( a l>ge *eck1 b :5 ! col\r$ head+s are f> remov$ x is advisable to *ange %uttles by h&1 z ! *a9 = ! drop box w\ld be too long4 ,"s *eck looms1 h[ev]1 c>ry contrivances = /opp+ ! motion ( ! *a9 :5 ! body ( ! h&k]*ief1 %awl1 t[el1 etc41 is be+ wov51 ?is be+ a v suitable sy/em4 ,9 case ( *ang+ by h& a measur+ motion is atta*$ to ! take-up roll] to /op ! loom at ! place = head+4 ,,! ,,drop-,,box ,,loom4 ,= *ang+ ! %uttle a drop-box loom is g5]ally employ$4 ,9 a d\ble drop-box ma*9e six boxes may be us$ at ea* side ( ! loom1 any "o ( :i* may be br\ght into action1 giv+ a scope ( elev5 col\rs ( weft4 ,! s+le drop box is1 h[ev]1 m usually employ$1 ) f\r or six boxes at "o side ( ! loom1 only giv+ f\r or six col\rs1 b n all[+ less ?an two picks ( ! same col\r to be put 94 ,to ins]t s+le picks ( col\r a d\ble-box loom is us$1 & possesses a special pick-&-pick arrangem5t 7uncommon 9 ! cotton trade7 to admit ( its pick+ twice consecutively f ei!r side ( ! loom4 ,! numb] ( boxes j m5tion$ is seldom met ) 9 ! cotton trade1 ?ree & f\r boxes be+ ! usual sizes4 ,! s+le f\r-%uttle drop box c>ries a frame at "o end ( ! slay 9 :i* ! boxes or %elves rise or fall4 ,^! boxes conta9 ! %uttles1 & by suitable regulat+ motions ! boxes may be %ift$ s z to br+ any "o %uttle level ) ! %uttle race & 9 front ( ! pick]4 ,! sp9dle is duplicat$1 & ! c\ple is plac$ 9 front ( ! box1 n above1 z 9 a pla9 ov]-pick loom4 ,! pick] is broad & is )\t nib1 fix$ 9 a horizontal position1 s z to act on any "o ( ! %uttles :i* may be plac$ be=e x4 ,! pr9cipal drop-box regulat+ motions are ,diggle's *a9 & ,wright ,%aw's motion4 ,,diggle',s ,,*a9 ,,motion4 ,diggle's *a9 is not$ = %ort patt]ns1 is simple 9 con/ruction1 & sure 9 its action4 ,atta*$ to ! loom top is a /> :eel ,a & b>rel ,b revolv+ on a /ud4 ,! b>rel c>ries a *a9 ,c1 ( diff]5t sizes ( l9ks unit$ by p9s2 ! /> :eel receives its motion ?r\gh a tra9 ( :eels f ! crank-%aft1 ( :i* ,d & ,e are connections4 ,! l9ks ( ! *a9 support a lev] ,f1 connect$ ) ano!r lev] ,g at ! loom side support+ ! drop boxes4 ,= a f\r-%uttle box ! l9ks are ( f\r heights1 ! deepe/ rais+ ! boxes to ! highe/ po9t1 :ile ! l[e/ l9k supports ! lev]s s t ! boxes are at ! bottom1 ) ! top %uttle level ) ! %uttle race4 ,! *a9 is arrang$ s t a suffici5t numb] ( l9ks ( ! same height are plac$ toge!r :]e sev]al picks ( ! same col\r are requir$4 ,! %apes ( ! l9ks are v>i$ to adapt ! lifts f or s9k+ to diff]5t boxes--?us1 = a f\r-box loom tw5ty diff]5t %apes ( l9ks may be us$ to give lifts or depressions f any box ( ! f\r to any o!r2 _! arrangem5t 9 *a9 dep5ds on ! be=e-m5tion$ pr9ciple4 ,a plate ( l9ks is %[n at ,fig4 #gb4 ,!y w be se5 to be ( f\r diff]5t heights4 ,a #dd-;in* loom ( ?is make may run #aej picks p] m9ute4 ,! *ange ( %uttle is made imm$iately ! %uttle ent]s ! box4 ,we are n able to *ange ! %uttle at less int]vals ?an two picks1 b c d s at great] int]vals--say1 = example1 once 9 f\r picks4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ga4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gb4 ,,wright ,,%aw ,,motion4 ,! motion call$1 aft] its inv5tor1 ! ,wright ,%aw motion is p]haps m suitable to cotton goods4 ,inde$1 9 ,man*e/]1 ne> to :i* city x 0 inv5t$ & is manufactur$1 x f9ds mu* fav\r 9 ! *eck trade4 ,a greatly improv$ motion has be5 rec5tly introduc$ by ,mr4 ,wright ,%aw1 b z ! old] =m is 9 common] use1 we w ref] to ! latt]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gc4 ,fig4 #gc %[s a sket* ( ?is ma*9e1 9 :i* ! p>ts w be cle>ly se54 ,x is ! make ( ,messrs4 ,h5ry ,livesey1 ,limit$1 ( ,blackburn1 b is on ! ,wright ,%aw pr9ciple improv$4 ,! %uttle box is support$ & mov$ by a rack & p9ion2 ?is p9ion %aft is actuat$ by a =k$ rack support$ on a pivot at ! end ( a lev]1 s z to ge> ) ei!r side ( ano!r :eel on ! p9ion %aft4 ,! lev] is driv5 by a cam1 & raises & l[]s ! =k4 ,! patt]n *a9 consi/s ( iron plates :i* are ?9 & n>r[1 ?us enabl+ a long] patt]n to be obta9$ ?an is possible by ! previ\sly describ$ motion4 ,^! plates are l9k$ toge!r by ela/ic b&s1 & ea* conta9s two peg holes1 & also "o1 two1 or ?ree l>g] holes to correspond ) ! po9ts ( ! ?ree-patt]n *a9 ne$les4 ,! patt]n *a9 passes r\nd a squ>e block p]=at$ to correspond ) ! ne$les1 & driv5 at ! spe$ ( a qu>t] ( a revolution = ea* two picks4 ,! pegs on x c>ry ! patt]n plates r\nd ) ! block4 ,! ne$les are arrang$ horizontally1 po9ts fac+ patt]n block4 ,! out] ne$les regulate :e!r ! "r or left leg ( ! =k %all be 9 contact ) ! :eel on p9ion %aft1 to det]m9e :e!r ! reciprocation %all be upw>ds or d[nw>ds4 ,a hole 9 ei!r "o side or ! o!r ( ! plate regulates ?is2 %\ld bo? sides be p]=at$1 ! =k rema9s 9 its previ\s position4 ,! =k is rais$ & depress$ by a lev]1 actuat$ by "o ( two cams--"o to move ! boxes "o %elf1 & ! o!r to skip a %elf1 ?us mov+ two boxes4 ,^! cams are *angeable1 & op]ate on "o end ( ! lev]1 :ile ! =k is susp5d$ to ! o!r end4 ,! c5tral ne$le decides :i* %all be 9 action1 z x c>ries a projection :i*1 :5 pu%$ back1 ?ru/s ! l>g] sweep cam into action4 ,x is easy1 !re=e1 to und]/& ! action ( ^! c>ds2 ?ree holes give no movem5t2 two holes1 ) a blank at "o side1 put ! =k into ge> ) ! correspond+ side ( ! p9ion :eel2 & 9 ! case ( two blanks1 ! "o 9 ! c5tre puts two-box /roke 9 action1 & ! side blank puts ! =k 9 ge> at "o side4 ,"o blank at ! "r side causes a rise1 or1 at ! left side1 a fall4 ,! five =ms ( plate are3-- ,illu/ration3 ,no *ange4 ,rise "o4 ,fall "o4 ,rise two4 ,fall two4 ,ris+ "o means t ! box is ris5 to ! next %elf2 ris+ two is ris5 to ! next %elf b "o1 skipp+ "o4 ,?is /yle ( drop box c be driv5 at ! spe$ ( #agj picks p] m9ute4 ,g5]ally1 a weav] att5ds to ?ree ( ^! looms1 & an ov]look] to f #ej to #fj4 ,= ! *eck %irt+ trade looms to weave f #cj-;in* to #cg-;in* clo? are us$4 ,,o!r ,,motions4 ,an +5i\s drop-box motion is manufactur$ by a ,burnley firm1 by :i* ! weight ( support+ ! boxes1 etc41 is altoge!r remov$ f ! patt]n *a91 :i* is consequ5tly made ( less cumbr\s con/ruction4 ,o!r firms claim decid$ advantages 9 respect ( a great] skip ?an ei!r ,diggle's or ,wright ,%aw's motions--e4g41 f ! fir/ to ! six? box4 ,skips ( ?is ext5t are obta9$ pr9cipally by us+ sev]al ecc5tric cams4 ,"o ( ^! may lift a s+le box1 a second may raise ! boxes two spaces1 & _! effect 9 comb9ation is a lift ( ?ree %uttles1 & s on = great] effects4 ,,circul> ,,boxes4 ,circul> boxes are seldom us$ = cotton goods4 ,9 ?is arrangem5t ! %uttles are fix$ 9 grooves =m$ 9 a block revolv+ at ! slay end1 & drawn r\nd 9 ei!r direction by hooks1 "o be+ plac$ at ea* side ( ! revolv+ b>rel4 ,! movem5t ( ! hooks is regulat$ by a patt]n *a94 ,! spe$ is ab\t ! same z a ,wright ,%aw motion4 ,,g5]al4 ,any ( ^! types ( boxes may be us$ ) ! ov]-pick1 & ei!r ) tappets1 dobby1 or jacqu>d %$d+4 ,attempts h rec5tly be5 made to apply ! drop-box pr9ciple to a sy/em ( repl5i%+ ! loom ) ?ree or f\r cops ( weft )\t a /oppage1 by hav+ !m previ\sly plac$ 9 ! %elves & l[]$ on ! breakage or runn+-(f ( ! previ\s weft4 ,,col\r$ ,,spots4 ,additional col\r is introduc$ into cotton fabrics 9 spots & figures aft] ! mann] ( embroid]y1 by us+ circle swivels or lappets4 ,if a s]ies ( small spots 9 col\r are requir$ to be made1 by us+ a drop-box loom ) a jacqu>d or dobby ! object is easily atta9$1 b x necessitates ! cutt+ away ( mu* ( ! col\r$ y>n :i* has be5 pick$ across ! clo?1 & only a portion ( :i* is requir$ = ! figure4 ,n[1 by us+ extra twi/ or weft1 & only int]weav+ z mu* z is requir$ = ! figure alone1 mu* wa/e c be prev5t$1 & a firm] spot obta9$4 ,take1 = example1 ! spott$ musl9 s frequ5tly us$ = w9d[ curta9s2 ea* figure only consi/s ( a few in*es ( co>se y>n s loosely pass$ ?r\gh ! gr\nd clo?1 & app>5tly s entirely indep5d5t ( ! o!r spots1 t a tyro c =m no o!r explanation ( _! appe>ance !re ?an t !y h be5 sewn on4 ,,circle ,,weav+4 ,circle weav+ has be5 us$ 9 ^! cases4 ,9 addition to ! gr\nd weft1 :i* is c>ri$ across ! clo? 9 ! ord9>y %uttle1 !re is a frame above ! %$ ( ! w>p c>ry+ sev]al circul>1 or r horse%oe-%ap$ atta*m5ts ) a small bobb9 ( weft pivot$ at ! upp] "p 7f>!/ f ! op5+ 9 ! r+74 ,^! r+s are driv5 r\nd by ge>+ ) a rack4 ,:5 ! figure has to be =m$ by ! weft pass+ r\nd1 say #bj ends1 ^! are rais$ above ! level ( ! top ( ! ord9>y %$1 inside ! r+1 :i* !n makes "o complete revolution1 & ! ends are depress$4 ,maybe a pla9 pick or two is !n ins]t$1 & aft]w>ds m spott+1 until ! desir$ figure is embroid]$ on ! musl91 :5 pla9 weav+ is resum$ = a few in*es4 ,,lappets4 ,9 lappet weav+1 extra bobb9s ( w>p are plac$ bel[ ! loom1 & ! ends f !m c>ri$ to a set ( upright ne$les1 :i* slide 9 a groove imm$iately 9 front ( ! end1 a false re$ be+ arrang$ = ! guidance ( ! %uttle4 ,! ne$les are regulat$ by a cam1 &1 ) _! po9t project+1 raise ! ?read into ! %$1 s t x may be b\nd into ! clo? by ! weft2 aft] :i* ! ne$les are remov$ ! di/ance ( a few ?reads1 & aga9 raise ! col\r$ end1 s t x may be b\nd into ! clo?4 ,! cam causes ! ne$les to be slid to & fro 9 ?is mann] until a figure is =m$ z desir$4 ,by ?is latt] me?od ! col\r 9 ! figure l>gely pr$om9ates on "o side ( ! clo?1 t :i* is ! "u side 9 ! loom4 ,! upp] side m]ely %[s ! outl9e ( ! figure :]e ! ?read has pass$ ?r\gh to be b\nd4 ,9 ! circle swivel figures ! weft usually %[s equally on bo? sides4 ,illu/ration3 ,decoration ,,*apt] ,,ix4 ,,mill ,,calculations--,,y>n ,,c\nts1 ,,re$s1 ,,healds1 ,,co/ ,,( ,,clo?1 ,,w>p+ ,,& ,,siz+ ,,l5g?s1 ,,wages1 ,,spe$s1 ,,eng9es4 ,x is desirable t ! calculations connect$ ) cotton manufactur+ 9 all its be>+s be treat$ 9 a sep>ate *apt]4 ,?is is n only necess>y f _! numb]1 b f _! great v>iety & difficulty ( classification "u diff]5t *apt] head+s1 inasmu* z _m are applicable to m ?an "o process4 ,,y>n ,,calculations4 ,! f95ess ( cotton y>n is indicat$ by ! c\nts 7o!rwise numb]s or gri/74 ,! c\nts ref] to ! numb] ( hanks 9 a p\nd 7avoirdupois74 ,! cotton hank is always #hdj y>ds2 &1 !re=e1 if we speak ( #aj's1 we ref] to y>n ( :i* #aj hanks or #hdjj y>ds weigh "o p\nd2 or 9 ref]r+ to #cf's1 ( t :i* #cf #hdj or #cj1bdj y>ds weigh "o p\nd4 ,?is applies to ei!r twi/ or weft4 ,! cotton y>n measure is-- #abj y>ds #a lea4 #g leas or #hdj y>ds #a hank4 & ! cotton y>n weight is peculi>1 be+ an avoirdupois p\nd divid$ into p5nyweights & ounces z 9 ! troy weight4 #bd gra9s #a p5nyweight4 #dcg-a_/b gra9s #ah-aa_/dh p5nyweights #a ounce4 #gjjj gra9s #af ounces #a lb4 ,,wrapp+4 #a's are tak5 z ! /&>d ) #hdj y>ds 9 #gjjj gra9s1 & a high] c\nt means f9] y>n2 !n #hdj y>ds (1 say #b's1 w\ld weigh #cejj gra9s1 or ( #gj's1 w\ld weigh #ajj gra9s4 ,if we measure a hank ( y>n1 & f9d t x weighs #ajj gra9s1 !n #gjjj1 divid$ by #ajj1 gives ! c\nts4 ,x is inconv5i5t 9 wrapp+ y>n to measure #hdj y>ds1 !re=e a lea ( #abj y>ds is tak5 z ! /&>d l5g? = #a's1 & also ! proportionate weight #ajjj gra9s4 ,in/ead ( tak+ #hdj y>ds & #gjjj gra9s x is usual1 !n1 to take #abj y>ds & #ajjj gra9s4 ,a wrap reel is #a-a_/b y>ds 9 circumf]5ce1 &1 by revolv+ x #hj times1 we c w9d #abj y>ds f a cop plac$ 9 ! ma*9e4 ,suppose ?is lea ( #abj y>ds weighs #be gra9s1 !n #ajjjj_/be #dj's4 ,%\ld less ?an a lea be tak51 say #fj y>ds1 !n #ejj gra9s mu/ be ! divid5d4 ,g5]ally1 h[ev]1 to obta9 ! c\nts ( any y>n1 #abj y>ds are weigh$1 & ! weight1 9 gra9s1 divid$ into #ajjj4 ,hav+ ! ,l5g? & ,c\nts giv51 to f9d ! ,weight4--#ibdj y>ds ( #dd's weft #ibdj y>ds #hdj #aa hanks4 ,9 ! giv5 c\nts #dd hanks weigh #a lb41 !n #aa hanks weigh #aa_/dd or #a_/d ( a lb4 ,c\nts ( ,silk1 ,wor/$1 ,l954--,s+le silk is c\nt$ same z cotton1 except t 9 two-fold pat5t silk ! actual wrapp+ is giv5--say1 #cj's_/#b 9 silk w wrap #cj's4 ,9 cotton1 #b_/cj's w\ld wrap #ae's4 ,! wor/$ hank is #efj y>ds4 ,! l95 8lea0 is #cjj y>ds4 ,! ,fr5* cotton /&>d is #ajjj metres 9 #ejj grammes--equival5t to #iibd y>ds 9 #a lb4 ,?us1 #aaha's 9 ,engli% w\ld be #a's 9 ,fr5*4 ,to transf] cotton measure to any o!r take ! cotton c\nt1 proportion x inv]sely to ! numb] ( y>ds 9 ! hanks1 say-- #bj's cotton equals #cj's wor/$1 7#bj #hdj7_/efj #cj's #bj's cotton equals #ef's l951 #cjj 3 #hdj 33 #bj's 3 #ef's4 #bj's cotton equals #bj's silk4 #bj's ,engli% equals #afic's ,fr5*4 #aah 3 #a 33 #bj's 3 x x 7#a #bj7_/aaha #afic ,d\ble ,y>ns 7,cotton74--,two-fold y>ns are numb]$ accord+ to ! s+le y>n c\nts--?us1 #b_/hj's two ends ( #hj's tw9$ toge!r1 :i* w\ld wrap #dj's4 ,actually1 to make ! resultant c\nt #dj's1 ! s+le y>n %\ld be f9] ?an #hj's1 because ! twi/ put 9 ! fold$ y>n contracts x 9 l5g? & causes ! two-fold to be really co>s] ?an w\ld appe>4 ,h[ev]1 neglect+ ?is1 suppose we tw9e "o end ( #dj's & "o ( #bj's1 ! c\nts w\ld n be #ae's1 z a fir/ glance w\ld indicate1 b #accc4 ,?is c be prov$ by tak+ ! weight ( a lea ( #dj #be gra9s1 & ( #bj's #ej gra9s2 total1 #ge4 #ge divid$ into #ajjj gives ! c\nts z #ac-a_/c4 ,ano!r rule is1 multiply ! two c\nts & divide by _! sum-- 7#dj #bj7_/7dj #bj7 #hjj_/fj #ac-a_/c #c_/cjj's #ajj's4 #c-;fold y>n ( #dj's1 #hj's1 & #abj's w\ld be #baha4 ,a lea ( #dj's #be gra9s4 ,a lea ( #hj's #ab-a_/b ,a lea ( #abj's #h-a_/h ------ #de-e_/f #ajjj_/7de-e_/f7 #baha ,or take ! highe/ c\nt & divide x by ea* ( ! o!rs & by itself1 !n divide ! total ( ! quoti5ts into ! highe/-- #abj #hj #a-a_/b #abj #dj #c #abj #abj #a ----- #e-a_/b #abj_/e-a_/b #baha ,,te/+ ,,y>ns4 ,9 addition to wrapp+ w>p y>n to asc]ta9 actual c\nts1 x is frequ5tly te/$ z to /r5g?2 ! lea f ! reel is plac$ betwe5 two hooks on a te/+ ma*9e1 & by a :eel worm & screw ! l[] hook is mov$ d[nw>ds1 increas+ ! t5sion on ! y>n4 ,by an index f+] ?is t5sion is indicat$ on a face plate1 & :5 ! lea is brok5 ! f+] /ops at ! highe/ weight or /ra9 t ! y>n has /ood4 ,bel[ is a table1 :i* w give a g5]al idea ( ! comp>ative /r5g? ( mule twi/s1 hav+1 = ! ,am]ican cotton1 ! /&>d turns 9--i4e41 squ>e root ( c\nts multipli$ by #c-c_/d4 #bj's ,am]ican ,cotton #hjlb4 #cj's #edlb4 #dj's #djlb4 ,egyptian #ejlb4 #ej's ,am]ican #bhlb4 ,egyptian #cglb4 #fj's #cjlb4 #gj's #bflb4 ,9 y>n ! diamet]s ( ! ?reads d n v>y inv]sely z ! c\nts1 b inv]sely z ! squ>e root ( ! c\nts4 ,?us1 #af's is n f\r times z ?ick z #fd's1 b twice z ?ick1 ! squ>e roots be+ f\r & eight respectively4 ,,re$ ,,c\nt+4 ,be=e ent]+ into ! calculations reg>d+ ! weight ( clo?1 x is necess>y to famili>ise ourselves ) "s me?od ( c\nt+ ! ends ( w>p 9 ! clo?4 ,on ! ,ex*ange ! sy/em adopt$ bo? = ends & pick is _! numb] p] qu>t] in*--e4g41 a #af by #ad means #af ends p] #a_/d-;in*1 or #ad picks p] qu>t]4 ,! me?ods us$ 9 ! manufactory are bas$ on ! c\nts ( re$4 ,=m]ly _m sy/ems ( re$ c\nts prevail$1 ea* t[n or di/rict hav+ a me?od peculi> to itself2 ?us1 ,blackburn c\nts1 ,pre/on c\nts & _m o!rs 7 at "o "t adh]$ to 9 _! respective di/ricts1 b h n[ fall5 into disuse1 & almo/ be5 =gott54 ,! ,/ockport c\nts is commone/ 9 ,lanca%ire1 & is bas$ on ! numb] ( d5ts or splits ( ! re$ 9 two in*es1 & z clo? is g5]ally wr\ght two ends on a d5t1 ?is sy/em is (t5 tak5 z ! numb] ( ends 9 "o in*4 ,x is 9 use 9 almo/ e ,lanca%ire manufactur+ di/rict1 be+ adopt$ 9 consequ5ce ( its simplicity & suitability = calculation purposes4 ,! ,bolton c\nts is /ill us$ 9 "s mills 9 t t[n & also 9 ,bury & "s few o!r di/ricts4 ,x is bas$ on ! numb] ( be]s 9 #bd-a_/d in*es--a be] compris+ #bj d5ts4 ,a ,/ockport #dj's re$ w\ld h #dhe d5ts on #bd-a_/d in*es1 or #bd-a_/d be]s ,bolton4 ,a ,bolton #bd-a_/d re$ is !n equal to a ,/ockport #dj's4 ,to f9d ! numb] ( splits p] in* 9 a re$ hav+ ,bolton c\nts giv51 multiply ^? c\nts by #hbdi1 or vice v]s4 ,?is rule %[s ! numb] ( d5ts & decimal p>ts2 #hbde is m (t5 tak51 b x gives ! numb] ) less exactitude4 ,! fraction is only tak5 to two places ( decimals1 %[+ ?us ! #ajj? p>ts ( d5ts--e4g41 a #cjj ,bolton has #bd-gd_/ajj splits p] in* 7#hbdi #cj #bdgdg74 ,to conv]t ,/ockport into ,bolton c\nts multiply by #fjfbe4 ,to conv]t ,bolton into ,/ockport multiply by #afdie4 ,?is rule gives ! numb] ( ends p] in* 9 ,bolton c\nts1 suppos+ ! clo? to be wr\ght two ends 9 a d5t4 ,! ,scot* sy/ems are to take ! numb] ( d5ts or splits 9 ! old ,scot* ell1 #cg in*es1 or by ! numb] ( port]s on ! same l5g?4 ,! ,scot* port] is equal to ! ,lanca%ire be]--#bj splits4 ,9 ! fir/ sy/em1 ! splits p] ell are express$ 9 hundr$s--?us1 #agjj indicates #agjj splits on #cg in*es1 almo/ equal to a #ib re$1 ,/ockport2 or a #df on ! ,scot* in* scale1 :i* is ! numb] ( splits 9 "o in*1 & correspond+ to ! old ,radcliffe & ,pilk+ton me?od 9 ,lanca%ire4 ,by ! port] sy/em1 a #dj-port] re$ w\ld give #dj #bj d5ts #hjj on #cg in*es1 equal to a #dc re$1 ,/ockport1 ,9 ,scotl& 7z 9 ,lanca%ire7 ! old complicat$ sy/ems %[ a t5d5cy to give way 9 fav\r ( ! simpl] sy/ems ( c\nt+ ! d5ts or ends 9 "o in*4 ,9 ! re$ table giv5 bel[1 ! fir/ r[ ( figures %[s ! proportion :i* ^! re$s be> to "o ano!r1 & ! l[] r[s indicate ! f95ess ( ! diff]5t sy/ems = #cc & #dj splits p] in* respectively--! calculation results be+ giv51 :i* same might n frequ5tly appe> 9 practice-- ,! ,in* ,/ockport ,bolton ,scot*4 ,scot* ,scale4 ,d5ts ,be]s #ajj ends ,port]4 ,d5ts p] on on on ,port]s on ,in*4 #b ,in*es4 #bd-a_/d ,in*es4 #cg ,in*es4 #cg ,in*es4 #a #b #ababe #jcg #ahe #cc #ff #dj #abbj #fa #dj #hj #dhe #adhj #gd ,,healds4 ,9 ,/ockport c\nts f\r healds are consid]$ z a set1 & hav+ "o ?read ?r\gh ea* eye are dubb$ ( simil> c\nts to ! re$--e4g41 a #fj's set ( healds has #ae /it*es p] in* 9 ea* set1 equall+ #fj ends p] in* 9 ! re$1 :i* is a #fj's re$1 ,/ockport4 ,9 spac$ healds "s are knitt$ f9] ?an o!rs & consequ5tly numb]$ diff]5tly4 ,9 ?is po9t draft3-- #e #e #d #d #d #d #c #c #c #b #b #a twelve ends are drawn on five healds1 "o end on ! #a/ heald1 two on ! #bnd1 ?ree on ! #crd1 f\r on ! #d?1 & two on ! #e?4 ,f\r diff]5t degrees ( f95ess are requir$ 9 ! five heald /aves1 & ! above draft is giv5 to ! knitt] ) in/ructions = s _m patt]ns to ! in*4 ,say five patt]ns p] in*3 #e #ab w\ld give a #fj re$1 & ! numb] ( /it*es p] in* w\ld be respectively #e1 #aj1 #ae1 #bj & #aj--! front "o be+ equal to a ,/ockport #bj's1 = if !re 7 f\r simil> to x 9 a set1 ! numb] ( ends w\ld be #bj4 ,simil>ly ! second /ave equals a ,/ockport #dj's1 ! ?ird #fj's1 ! f\r? #hj's1 & ! fif? same z ! second1 a #dj's4 ,to prove ?is1 ! requisite set ( five /aves might be obta9$ by tak+ "o /ave out ( a pla9 #bj's set1 two /aves ( a pla9 #dj's1 "o /ave f a #fj's1 & "o f an #hj's set4 ,,weight ,,( ,a ,,piece4 ,9 calculat+ ! weight ( a piece1 ! w>p weight is obta9$ f ! numb] ( ends1 bas$ ^u ! wid? 9 ! re$4 ,?is is multipli$ by ! siz+ l5g? & br\ght into hanks1 f :i* ! weight c be obta9$ by divid+ by ! c\nts4 ,! weft is calculat$ f ! picks to ! in*1 ! re$ wid?1 & ! actual l5g? ( piece4 ,example--,a piece has to be made full dim5sions1 #cf in*es wide1 #cf y>ds long1 #af squ>e 7#a_/d in*7--i4e41 #fd ends p] in* & #fd picks2 y>ns #cj's_/#cf's1 ! fir/ numb] be+ ! w>p1 siz$ #be p] c5t4 ,9 ! re$ x w\ld /& #ch in*es1 ab\t six p] c5t4 be+ all[$ = contraction4 ,( c\rse1 if ! y>n 7 co>s]1 ! pick heavi]1 & ! re$ f9]1 m ?an ?is w\ld be all[$4 ,suppos+ t a #fj's re$ 7,/ockport7 is us$1 ! numb] ( ends w\ld be #ch #fj #bbhj2 ! l5g? ( w>p1 say #ch y>ds1 all[+ six p] c5t4--!n 7#bbhj #ch7_/hdj #ajc-a_/g hanks1 ,divid$ by #cj's gives #clb4 #goz4 ,weft4--,! weft1 #cg-a_/b in*es wide1 #fd picks2 l5g? ( piece1 #cf y>ds4 7#cg-a_/b #fd x #cf7_/7hdj #cf's7 #blb4 #ac-c_/doz4 #cg-a_/b #fd gives ! numb] ( in*es ( weft 9 "o in* ( clo?1 or1 :at is ! same1 y>ds ( weft 9 "o y>d ( clo?4 ,size4-- #clb4 #goz4 #eeoz4 #be p] c5t4 on #ee #ee #be #ajj #ac-c_/doz4 ,! weight ( ! piece is !n-- ,twi/ #c 3 #g ,size #ac-c_/d ----------------------- #d 3 #d-c_/d ,weft #b 3 #ac-c_/d ---------- #g 3 #b-a_/b ,:5 ! piece is measur$ by ! long /ick1 ab\t half an in* m to ! y>d mu/ be reckon$--e4g41 #ch-;in*3 #ad_/ad1 #cg-a_/b y>ds ,l4,s41 #ch's weft1 to be #h-a_/dlb4 9 weight2 ?is w\ld be p]haps #ch-a_/d y>ds long ,s4,s4 ,weft4-- 7#dj #ef #ch-a_/d7_/7hdj #ch7 #b 3 #aj-c_/d ,leav+ #e3 #i-a_/d = twi/ & size1 say ( ! latt] #ajj p] c5t41 !n #b3 #ab-a_/b w\ld be twi/-- 7#dj #eb #da7_/hdj #aja-a_/b hanks requir$ to be f\nd 9 #b3 #ab-a_/b ( y>n2 !n if #b3 #ab-a_/b #aja-a_/b hank33 #alb4 equals #cf's twi/ ab\t4 ,?is clo? w\ld !n be compos$ (-- ,w>p #b 3 #ab-a_/d ,size #b 3 #ac ,weft #b 3 #aj-c_/d ---------- #h 3 #d ,= quot+ purposes ! weight ( ! y>n is tak5 at ! m>ket price1 say t ( ! clo? ,no4 #a-- lb4 oz4 #c #g ( #cj's ,t at #h;d4 #b 3 #c-a_/b #b #ac-c_/d ( #cf's ,w at #h;d4 #a 3 #aa ,weav+ ,price #i-a_/b ,to ?is is add$ a sum suffici5t to cov] co/--w9d+1 w>p+1 siz+1 p[]1 miscellane\s exp5ses1 wa/e 7:i* sum v>ies consid]ably1 & dep5ds ma9ly ^u ! situation ( ! produc]s z reg>ds ! am\nt at :i* he c produce ?is clo?74 ,(t51 = lightly-siz$ goods1 ! weav+ price is d\bl$1 mak+ ?is piece co/ #es4 #i-a_/b;d4 ,%\ld x be a dhootie1 !n an addition is made = col\r$ y>ns = head+ & bord]1 & if a figur$ clo? extras are includ$ = increas$ co/ ( production4 ,! examples giv5 are supposititi\s ones1 =1 z has be5 said1 ! exact details ( weight & quot+ prices are decid$ purely by local or tempor>y position1 & fix$ data _c be giv5 z a /&>d = e case4 ,,/ripe ,,patt]ns4 ,9 case ( /ripes ) two c\nts ( w>p y>n1 = example1 ! numb] ( ends ( ea* mu/ be obta9$4 ,if !re are #ch /ripes ea* ( #ae ends1 #dj's twi/1 ) a gr\nd clo? betwe5 ea* ( #de ends w>p1 #fj's ,t1 sep>ate calculations = ea* mu/ be made4 #ch #ae #egj /ripe ends4 #ch #de #agaj gr\nd ends4 ,,alt]+4 ,:5 ! pick or re$ is alt]$1 ! weight ( ! weft or w>p is alt]$ 9 proportion2 :5 ! l5g? or wid? is alt]$1 ! weight ( ! piece is alt]$ 9 proportion2 :5 ! c\nts ( y>n are alt]$1 ! weight alt]s inv]sely proportionately4 ,,o!r ,,re$s4 ,al?\gh ! #a_/d-;in* scale is mo/ly us$ = calculat+ w>ps 9 ,lanca%ire1 we give an example ( a calculation ) ! ,bolton re$4 ,to get ! numb] ( ends1 multiply ! re$ c\nts by ! wid? ( y\r w>p 9 ! re$1 & by #afdie--?us1 ,bolton #cf's1 #ci in*es 9 ! re$1 w\ld give #bbch ends4 ,! calculation is !n proce$$ ) 9 ! ord9>y mann]4 ,9 ! ,scot* ell /&>d sy/em1 ! dim5sions ( ! clo? be=e-m5tion$ w\ld be #cf in*es wide1 #cf y>ds long1 #aajj re$1 #aa-a_/b %ots to ! glass1 y>ns #cj's_/#cf's4 ,to calculate ! weight ( w>p1 add six p] c5t4 to ! #cf in*es1 mak+ x #ch in*es wide 9 ! re$4 ,if !re are #aajj splits on #cg in*es1 !n ! numb] on #ch in*es w be proportional4 7#aajj #ch7_/cg #aacj4 ,multiply by #b1 z x is always und]/ood t !re are two ends 9 a split1 & we get #bbfj ends4 ,! calculation is !n cont9u$ 9 ! usual way4 7#bbfj #ch7_/7hdj #cj7 #cdjglb4 ,weft4---- ,! mean+ ( %ots on ! glass ref]s to a c\nt+ glass us$ 9 ,glasg[ di/rict1 "o two-hundr$? "p ( a y>d 9 wid?2 #aa-a_/b %ots w !n give #aa-a_/b #bjj #bcjj picks 9 a y>d4 7#bcjj #cg-a_/b in*es wide7_/7#cf's #cf in*es to ! y>d #hdj7 #bhelb4 ,if requir$ to be left 9 hank1 omit to divide by ! c\nts 9 ea* case4 ,9 o!r mat]ials1 ! l5g? ( ! hank v>ies1 &1 9 ! case ( s+le wor/$1 we %\ld h divid$ 9 ! previ\s calculations by #efj in/ead ( #hdj1 9 l95 by #cjj1 or 9 s+le silk by #hdj4 ,,w>p+ ,,& ,,siz+ ,,calculations4 ,9 gett+ an ord] pass$ ?r\gh a weav+ %$ ! fir/ po9t1 aft] calculat+ ! p>ticul>s = ea* piece or cut1 is to get ! l5g? = w>p+ & siz+4 ,9 ! case ( an ord] = #cgej pieces ( ! be=e-m5tion$ dim5sions1 ! total l5g? ( w>p is calculat$ ?us--#ch y>ds = "o piece #cgej #adb1ejj y>ds1 all[+ no?+ = wa/e 9 l5g?1 z ! t5sion on ! y>n 9 process w /ret* x suffici5tly to all[ = t1 & p]haps a little m4 ,at ! w>p+ mill ! l5g? is tak5 9 wraps ( #cefd y>ds1 subdivid$ into tee? ( #bg y>ds4 ,9 ?is case1 f\r wraps or #ad1bef y>ds w\ld be tak5 to a set ( back beams2 !re=e1 ?is ord] w\ld be run 9 t5 sep>ate sets4 ,! numb] ( back beams = ! siz+ ma*9e is proportion$ to ! capacity ( ! w>p+ mill--say five beams1 ! l5g? on ea* beam mu/ be #ad1bef y>ds1 & ! total numb] ( ends on ! beams equal to ! ends 9 ! piece--say #e at #def ea* #bbhj4 ,to ,calculate ! ,c\nts ( ,y>n aft] ,w>p+4--,divide ! l5g? by ! weight & #hdj4 ,a beam weighs #cjalb41 c>ry+ #ejd ends1 ea* #ad1bef y>ds long-- 7#ad1bef #ejd7_/7cja #hdj7 #bhda's4 ,hav+ #cge pieces to make f ! set ( beams1 :i* w probably weigh ab\t #acjjlb4 = #cj's twi/1 to ?is add #be p] c5t4 = size 7#acjj #cbe7_/ajj #cbe #acjj ---- #afbe ,divide by #cge7 #aejj 7#dlb4 #eoz4 ---- #abe #af ---- #bjjj #dlb4 #eoz4 be+ ab\t ! size requir$ 7vide page #aej74 ,actual ,size4--,to f9d ! size actually put on ! y>n1 subtract ! weight ( ! unsiz$ y>n less wa/e f ! siz$ y>n--e4g41 #afci ,actual siz$ weight4 #acjj ---- #cci ,weight ( size4 #acjj7 #ccijj 7#bfjg p] c5t4 actual4 #bfjj ---- #gijj #ghjj ---- #ajj ,c\nts aft] ,siz+4-- 7#adbef #bbhj7 _/ 7#afci #hdj7 #bcfa's ,to ,calculate ! ,p]c5tage ( ,wa/e4--,multiply ! wa/e made by #ajj & divide by ! weight ( y>n us$4 ,if elev5 skips ( twi/1 weigh+ #cahilb41 make #cclb4 ( wa/e-- #cahi 7 #ccjj 7 #ajcd p] c5t4 #cahi ------ #aaajj #iefg ------ #aeccj ,,wages--,,/&>d ,,li/s4 ,9 ^? t[ns :]e a uni=m class ( goods is made ( simple weave1 x is possible to =mulate & adh]e to a /&>d me?od ( paym5t su* z is done 9 ,burnley1 ,blackburn1 & o!r t[ns4 ,9 o!r di/ricts1 su* z ,bolton & ,pre/on1 ! sorts are s v>i$ & difficult to classify t at _m mills a private li/ is adh]$ to ) satisfaction to ! employ] & employ$4 ,= ! b5efit ( "s read]s a typical calculation w be giv51 bas$ on ! #ahec ,blackburn li/1 z 9 #ahhc ?is li/ 0 adopt$ 9 ,pre/on1 ,*orley1 & o!r t[ns4 ,?is may be consid]$ a li/ ( m$ium position ) reg>d to o!r li/s--,burnley be+ l[] = pla9s1 ,a%ton li/ be+ consid]$ a l[ "o = fancies4 ,! ,blackburn li/ is bas$ on a #dj-;in* loom1 weav+ f #cf to #da-;in* clo?1 #fj re$ ,/ockport c\nts1 #af picks p] #a_/d in*1 #cg-a_/b y>ds1 f #cj's to #fj's weft1 & f #bh's to #de's twi/1 = #abbe;d4 ,re$s4--,a #fj re$ or #cj d5ts1 be+ ! /&>d1 is made ! />t+ po9t1 & #c_/d p] c5t4 is d$uct$ = e two ends or c\nts ( re$s1 f #fj to #dh2 b no d$uction is made bel[ #dh re$1 & #c_/d p] c5t4 is add$ = e two ends or c\nts ( re$ above #fj4 ,weft4--,all weft f #cj's to #fj's1 bo? includ$1 is consid]$ m$ium1 & reckon$ equal1 b all weft above #fj's to be all[$ #a p] c5t4 = e #aj hanks1 & all bel[ #cj's to #bf's to be all[$ #b p] c5t4 on li/4 #bf's to #bj's #e #bj's to #af's #h #af's to #ad's #aj ,twi/4--,all twi/ f #bh's to #de's1 bo? includ$1 is consid]$ m$ium1 & reckon$ equal1 b all twi/ above #de's up to #fj's to be all[$ #a-a_/b p] c5t41 & all above #fj's #a p] c5t4 = ea* #aj hanks1 & all bel[ #bh's to #bj's to be all[$ #a p] c5t4 on li/4 #bj's to #ad's #b ,additions = ,picks4--,all picks above #h & up to #ah are consid]$ proportionate1 b #h picks & all bel[ & all above #ah1 to h #a p] c5t4 all[$ = e pick ov] & above ! proportionate diff]5ce 9 ! numb] ( picks4 ,wid? ( ,looms4--,a #dj-;in* loom be+ ! /&>d1 is tak5 z ! />t+ po9t1 & all additions or d$uctions are made !refrom4 7,! re$ space is measur$ f back bo>d to =kgrate47 #be-;in* loom has #b-a_/b p] c5t4 d$uct$ f #cj-;in* loom4 #cj-;in* #e #ce-;in* #ce-;in* #e #dj-;in* #dj-;in* loom 7#de-;in* re$ space7 ! /&>d-- #de-;in* loom has #e p] c5t4 add$ to #dj-;in* loom4 #ej-;in* #aj #de-;in* #ee-;in* #aj #ej-;in* #fj-;in* #aj #ee-;in* ,looms ( ,int]m$iate ,wid?4--,"o p] c5t4 p] in* is to be d$uct$ f #dj d[n to #cj-;in* loom2 bel[ #cj to #bf-;in* loom #e_/h p] c5t4 p] in* to be d$uct$4 ,above #dj-;in* & up to #de-;in* loom1 #a p] c5t4 p] in* to be add$1 & all above #de-;in* #b p] c5t4 p] in*4 ,n>r[ ,clo? 9 ,broad ,looms4--,suppose a #dj-;in* loom %\ld be weav+ clo? #cf to #ca-a_/d in*es 9 wid?1 take (f "o-half ! diff]5ce betwe5 #dj & #ce-;in* loom price2 & if weav+ clo? #ca to #bg-a_/d in*es wide1 take (f "o-half ! diff]5ce betwe5 #dj & #cj-;in* loom price2 or if weav+ #da-a_/d to #df-;in* clo? 9 a #ej-;in* loom1 take (f "o-half ! diff]5ce betwe5 #ej & #de-;in* loom1 & s on ) all o!r wid?s4 ,range ( ,clo?s4-- #bf-;in* loom all[$ to weave clo? up to #bg in*es4 #ce-;in* f #ca to #cf in*es4 #dj-;in* #cf to #da #de-;in* #da to #df #ej-;in* #df to #eb ,basis ( ,calculations4--,! calculations 9 ! ,blackburn li/ are bas$ ^u ! picks c\nt$ by ! glass :5 ! clo? is laid ^u ! c\nt]4 ,=ty y>ds %ort /ick to be tak5 z #ci y>ds long /ick4 ,to f9d price = a #dd-;in* clo? 9 #de-;in* loom #ff's re$1 #dd *ange p9ion1 #ebh divid5d1 #ge y>ds long1 #cd's_/#cf's-- #abbe ,/&>d4 ,add #e p] c5t4 loom #fa ----- #abhf ,add #b-a_/d p] c5t4 re$ #bh ----- #acad ,calculate 9 proportion to pick #af to #ab #ihf ,calculate proportion l5g? #cg-a_/b to #ge #aigb ,li/ price4 ,d\ble ,d$uct #aj p] c5t4 #aig ----- #aggh ,pres5t price4 or f li/ "u head+1 #de-;in* loom-- #ff re$1 #cg-a_/b y>ds #hbb = #a pick4 #ihf = #ab picks4 #aigb = #ge y>ds4 ,,spe$s ,,( ,,%afts1 ,,etc4 ,9 calculat+ ! spe$ ( a %aft driv5 f ano!r by pulleys or ge>+1 multiply ! spe$ ( ! fir/ %aft by ! driv+ pulley or :eel1 & divide by ! driv5 "o4 ,a %aft makes #ajj revolutions p] m9ute & c>ries a #dj-;in* drum driv+ a #af-;in* pulley on ano!r %aft2 ! spe$ ( ! second %aft w\ld be #bej1 ?us3-- 7#ajj #dj7_/af #bej4 ,! same rule & calculation w\ld apply if ! fir/ %aft _h c>ri$ a #dj-tee? cog-:eel1 & ! second a #af-tee? :eel4 ,9 tak+ ! dim5sions ( a pulley = calculations ! diamet] is (t5 tak52 x does n matt]1 ?\gh1 if ! circumf]5ce be tak51 b c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 tak+ ! same dim5sion = ! driv5 z is tak5 = ! driv]4 ,if ! diamet] is tak5 ( "o1 ! diamet] mu/ be tak5 ( ! o!r4 ,to get ,spe$ ( ,loom f ,eng9e4--,multiply ! eng9e spe$ by all ! driv+ pulleys1 & divide by ! driv5 ones4 ,if ! eng9e make #df /rokes p] m9ute1 spur-:eel #aje tee?1 second motion p9ion #eb tee?2 also on same a #eb driv+ a #di on l9e %aft 9 %$4 ,pulley on l9e %aft on :i* is a #ae-;in* drum driv+ a loom pulley on ! crank-%aft ( #h in*es4 ,! driv+ & driv5 pulleys are always alt]nate2 !n z ! fir/ mu/ be a driv]-- 7#df #aje #eb #ae7_/7eb #di #h7 #ahe ne>ly4 ,! answ] gives ! calculat$ picks p] m9ute4 ,ab\t #d p] c5t4 mu/1 h[ev]1 be all[$ = slippage1 r$uc+ ! #ahe to an actual spe$ ( ab\t #agg4 ,to f9d ! ,size ( ,pulley = any requir$ ,spe$4--,f9d ! ratio ( ! giv5 spe$ & arrange size ( pulley accord+ly4 ,suppose a %aft runn+ at #ajj revolutions p] m9ute has to drive a loom-%aft at a spe$ ( #ahj picks p] m9ute ! ratio ( spe$ is z #ajj to #ahj or z #e to #i2 arrange ! pulleys 9 ?is proportion--say #aj in*es & #ah in*es1 ! l>g] pulley be+ on ! driv+ %aft4 ,to alt] ,spe$s4--,calculate 9 proportion to ! alt]ation4 ,if a twill-%aft is driv5 by a #cj-;cog :eel1 & revolves at a spe$ ( #de revolutions p] m9ute = a #d-leaf twill1 & x is desirable to *ange ?is to a #c-leaf twill ) ! twill-%aft at #fj revolutions p] m9ute1 !n1 z #de is to #fj1 s #cj3 x-- x 7#fj #cj7_/de #dj ,a #dj :eel mu/ n[ drive ! :eel on ! twill-%aft1 & ! spe$ w be increas$ "o-?ird m4 ,,eng9es4 ,! /r5g? ( a /eam eng9e is indicat$ 9 horse-p[]s4 ,a horse-p[] is tak5 z ! capacity ( p]=m+ #cc1jjj foot-p\nds ( "w 9 "o m9ute2 lift+ #ccjjlb4 #aj feet high1 or #ajlb4 #ccjj feet high w\ld be #cc1jjj foot-p\nds ( "w4 ,to obta9 ! ,indicat$ ,horse-p[]--! mo/ usual ,/&>d4--,a diagram is tak5 f ! eng9e by a small app>atus1 & ?is diagram1 :5 measur$ & av]ag$ at diff]5t po9ts ( its l5g?1 gives ! mean pressure ( /eam 9 ! cyl9d]4 ,multiply ?is by ! spe$ ( ! pi/on1 by ! area ( ! pi/on1 & divide by #cc1jjj1 & ! ,i4,h4,p4 is to h&4 #ciha av]age pressure p] squ>e in*1 area ( pi/on #djj squ>e in*es1 l5g? ( /roke #e-a_/b feet1 /rokes p] m9ute #dj 7or #aa feet bo? ways7-- 7#ciha #djj #aa #dj7_/cc1jjj #babcb ,i4,h4,p4 ,nom9al horse-p[] 7cond5s+7 area ( pi/on divid$ by #bb2 ditto high pressure area ( pi/on divid$ by #aa4 #b-a_/b to #c looms1 ) prep>ation1 are reckon$ to #a indicat$ horse-p[]4 ,coal4--,a good quality ( coal %\ld evaporate #hlb4 ( wat] = ea* #alb4 burnt1 & = a manufactur+ conc]n 7includ+ siz+1 :i* takes a great am\nt ( /eam7 ! consumption ( coal %\ld be ab\t #c-a_/dlb4 p] ,i4,h4,p4 p] h\r4 ,?us #fjj horse-p[] %\ld use ab\t #bd tons p] week2 exclud+ siz+1 #b-c_/dlb4 w\ld suffice4 ,to f9d ! ,circumf]5ce ( a ,circle4--,multiply ! diamet] by #cadaf or 7r\ghly7 by #c-a_/g4 ,to f9d ! ,area ( a ,circul> ,space4--,squ>e ! diamet] & multiply by #ghed4 ,to f9d ! ,cubical ,cont5ts ( a ,rectangul> ,block4--,multiply ! dep?1 l5g? & bread? toge!r4 ,illu/ration ,,city ,,& ,,guilds ,,( ,,london ,,in/itute ,,= ,,! ,,advancem5t ,,( ,,te*nical ,,education4 ,,te*nological ,,exam9ations4 #ai;,b4--,,cotton ,,manufacture4 ,,section ,i4--,,cotton ,,sp9n+4 ,i4 ,syllabus4--,! ,exam9ation w include que/ions f\nd$ on su* subjects z ! foll[+3-- #a4 ,! geographical position ( ! _w's cotton fields1 & suitable regions to :i* x may be introduc$4 #b4 ,cotton cultivation & ! v>i\s causes ( damage to ! fibre dur+ gr[+ & pick+ seasons1 ) ! dates ( plant+ & pick+ 9 all cotton-gr[+ c\ntries4 #c4 ,! mode ( prep>+ ! raw mat]ial1 cotton g9s1 g9n+1 pack+1 c4 ,means & me?ods ( adult]ation4 #d4 ,comm]cial h&l+ ( ! raw mat]ial up to ! sp9n+ mill4 #e4 ,! nature & prop]ties ( ! v>i\s k9ds ( raw mat]ial--,sea ,isl&1 ,que5sl&1 ,fiji1 ,egyptian1 ,new ,orleans1 ,upl&s1 ,b[$s1 ,doll]ah1 ,h+h+hat1 ,surat1 ,brazilian1 c4 #f4 ,! selection (1 & advisability1 or o!rwise1 ( mix+ v>i\s cottons ) a view to ! full utilization ( e k9d4 #g4 ,! developm5t ( & ! pr9ciples involv$ 9 ! con/ruction ( ! sev]al ma*9es us$ 9 cotton sp9n+4 #h4 ,clean+ cotton by op5+1 scrut*+1 c>d+ & comb+ ma*9es4 #i4 ,processes ( atta9+ a p>allel arrangem5t ( fibres by c>d+1 & ! att5uation ( ! sliv] ?r\gh draw+1 slubb+1 int]m$iate & f9i%+ rov+ frames4 #aj4 ,sp9n+ op]ations ^u ! ?ro/le1 mule1 & r+ frames4 #aa4 ,! d\bl+ ( s+le y>ns = lace1 hosi]y1 sew+ ?read1 & k9dr$ purposes4 #ab4 ,w>p+ & bundl+ = ! home trade & export1 ) ! accompany+ processes ( w9d+ & reel+4 #ac4 ,pack+ & comm]cial deal+ ) y>ns 9 ! process ( di/ribution4 99 99 99 99 99 ,9 ! ,hon\rs ,exam9ation m difficult que/ions 9 ! above subjects w be set ?an 9 ! ,ord9>y ,grade4 ,,ii4 ,full ,te*nological ,c]tificate4--,! c&idate1 :o is n o!rwise qualifi$ 7see ,regulations #cc & #cd71 w be requir$1 = ! full ,c]tificate 9 ! ,ord9>y ,grade1 to h pass$ ! ,sci5ce & ,art ,dep>tm5t's ,exam9ation1 9 ! ,elem5t>y ,/age at lea/1 & = ! full ,c]tificate 9 ! ,hon\rs ,grade1 9 ! ,advanc$ ,/age at lea/1 9 two ( ! foll[+ ,sci5ce subjects3-- ,,ii4 ,ma*9e ,con/ruction & ,draw+4 ,,iii4 ,build+ ,con/ruction4 ,,vi4 ,!oretical ,me*anics4 ,,vii4 ,appli$ ,me*anics4 ,,xv4 ,elem5t>y ,botany4 ,c]tificates1 %[+ t ! c&idate has pass$ ! ,second ,grade ,exam9ation ( ! ,sci5ce & ,art ,dep>tm5t 9 ,geometrical ,draw+ z well z 9 ,freeh& or ,model ,draw+1 w be accept$ 9 lieu ( "o ( ! above ,sci5ce subjects = ! full ,te*nological ,c]tificate 9 ei!r grade ( ! ,exam9ation4 ,,section ,,ii4--,,cotton ,,weav+4 ,! ,exam9ation 9 ! ,ord9>y ,grade w consi/ ( a pap] ( que/ions only4 ,i4 ,syllabus4--,! ,exam9ation w include que/ions f\nd$ on su* subjects z ! foll[+3-- #a4 ,w9d+ ,ma*9es = w>p+ & pirns4 #b4 ,w>p+4--,mill1 beam & sectional4 #c4 ,siz+4--,ball1 hank1 dress+1 sla%+ ^u bo? cyl9d] & hot-air frames4 #d4 ,beam+ & ,scot* ,dress+4 #e4 ,re$s & ,healds 7,c\nts ,sett+1 c471 ,draw+ 9 & ,twi/+4 #f4 ,comp>ative m]its ( ,h& & ,p[] ,looms4 #g4 ,! ,p[] ,loom--its p>ts1 ! pr9ciple gov]n+ ea*1 ) ! relation & tim+ ( ea* to ! o!r4 #h4 ,%$d+ ,motions--z ,tappets ) _! ov] & "u motions4 ,dobbies or wit*es4 #i4 ,pick+ motions1 alt]nate & 8pick & pick40 #aj4 ,beat+ up1 %uttle box1 & m9or motions4 #aa4 ,necess>y calculations = ! p[] loom4 #ab4 ,! v>i\s makes ( clo? produc$ by ,tappets & ,dobbies z pla9 clo?1 twills1 sat9s1 & small figur$ effects1 ) "o w>p & weft1 or ) ! addition ( extra w>p = figur+1 z 9 ,dhooties4 #ac4 ,me?od ( mak+ designs1 drafts1 & tie-ups = ! above4 #ad4 ,col\r & col\r bl5d+ z appli$ to ! col\r$ bran*es ( ! indu/ry4 #ae4 ,calculations = w>p & weft & me?od ( co/+ goods4 99 99 99 99 99 ,! ,exam9ation = ! ,hon\rs ,grade w consi/ ( m advanc$ que/ions on ! prec$+ subjects1 especially ^? enum]at$ 9 ,sections #g to #aa2 &1 9 addition1 que/ions relat+ to ! foll[+3-- #a4 ,con/ruction ( ! v>i\s ,jacqu>d ma*9es 9 use1 & _! relative suitability to v>i\s goods1 & ! sy/em ( m\nt+ ,jacqu>d looms4 #b4 ,con/ruction1 m]its & uses ( ! h& loom4 #c4 ,pr9ciples ( clo? /ructure1 & ! me*anism requir$ = ! production ( ! foll[+ typical fabrics3--,pla9 clo?1 twills1 diap]s1 brocades1 damasks1 col\r$ /ripes & *ecks1 w>p spots1 repps1 weft spots produc$ ) circles1 swivels or extra %uttles1 back$ clo?s1 d\ble clo?s1 #c1 #d1 #e1 c41 ply fabrics1 tape/ries1 velvete5s1 cords1 ,t]ry fabrics1 pla9 & figur$ gauze1 lappets1 pla9 & figur$ l5o4 #d4 ,pr9ciples ( design+ & c>d cutt+ involv$ 9 produc+ ! above fabrics1 giv+ pref]5ce to ! actual design+ & work+ ( su* patt]ns z %all be practically useful z articles ( comm]ce4 #e4 ,analysis ( samples ( wov5 fabrics to det]m9e patt]n1 draft1 tie-up1 & c\nts ( mat]ial us$4 #f4 ,composition ( ! v>i\s y>ns us$ 9 ! production ( mix$ fabrics4 #g4 ,lat5t & o!r defects 9 fabrics caus$ by faulty con/ruction & unequal balanc+ ( w>p & weft4 #h4 ,selection ( w>p & weft y>ns suitable = ! fabrics requir$4 #i4 ,proportion+ ( fabrics s z to ma9ta9 ! orig9al /ructure ) an increas$ or dim9i%$ weight4 #aj4 ,me?od ( calculat+ ! co/ ( a fabric f giv5 data ( values ( mat]ial & lab\r1 by asc]ta9+ ! fibre1 c\nts1 ends1 picks & weight4 #aa4 ,actual ,weav+4--,ea* c&idate w be requir$1 dur+ ! ye> prec$+ ! ,exam9ation1 to design & execute 9 suitable mat]ial an orig9al patt]n1 ( n less ?an #bjj ends & #bjj picks 9 a complete patt]n1 & to =w>d ! same 7c>riage paid7 to ,london a =tnight prior to ! day ( ! ,exam9ation1 toge!r ) a c]tificate sign$ by 8 employ]1 or by ! class tea*] & a memb] ( ! ,s*ool ,committee1 /at+ t ! "w has be5 execut$ by ! c&idate )\t assi/ance4 ,! specim5 ( weav+1 %[+ ! complete patt]n1 mu/ n be less ?an "o y>d 9 l5g? & at lea/ #bd in*es 9 wid?3 x mu/ be prop]ly dy$ or f9i%$1 & con/ruct$ 9 su* a mann] z to be a saleable article4 ,,ii4 ,full ,te*nological ,c]tificate4--,! c&idate1 :o is n o!rwise qualifi$ 7see ,regulations #cc & #cd71 w be requir$1 = ! full ,c]tificate 9 ! ,ord9>y ,grade1 to h pass$ ! ,sci5ce & ,art ,dep>tm5t's ,exam9ation1 9 ! ,elem5t>y ,/age at lea/1 & = ! full ,c]tificate 9 ! ,hon\rs ,grade1 9 ! ,advanc$ ,/age at lea/1 9 two ( ! foll[+ ,sci5ce subjects3-- ,,ii4 ,ma*9e ,con/ruction & ,draw+4 ,,iii4 ,build+ ,con/ruction4 ,,vi4 ,!oretical ,me*anics4 ,,vii4 ,appli$ ,me*anics4 ,,xv4 ,elem5t>y ,botany4 ,c]tificates1 %[+ t ! c&idate has pass$ ! ,second ,grade ,exam9ation ( ! ,sci5ce & ,art ,dep>tm5t 9 ,geometrical ,draw+ z well z 9 ,freeh& or ,model ,draw+1 w be accept$ 9 lieu ( "o ( ! above ,sci5ce subjects = ! full ,te*nological ,c]tificate 9 ei!r grade ( ! ,exam9ation4 ,illu/ration ,,gloss>y ,,( ,,trade ,,t]ms4 ,am4--,,am]ican4 ,sc4--,,scot*4 ,"s words n m5tion$ "h are expla9$ 9 previ\s p>ts ( ! book1 & w be f\nd 9 ! ,g5]al ,index4 ,apex--,! tip or po9t--e4g41 ( a cone or w$ge4 ,back$ ,clo?--,clo? :i*1 9 addition to ! fac$ fabric1 be>s b\nd und]nea? a lay] ei!r ( extra weft1 extra w>p1 or ( ano!r clo?4 ,! t]m is usually appli$ to ! fir/-nam$ v>iety4 ,b>--,a t]m appli$ to a s+le /rip ( col\r$ weft1 us$ z head+ or cross bord]4 ,beam--,! flang$ roll] on :i* ! w>p y>n is w\nd1 ei!r at ! beam1 w>p+1 siz+1 or dress+ ma*9es2 also appli$ to ! full beam4 ,be]--,tw5ty d5ts or splits 9 a re$1 also #dj ends--i4e41 two ends to ea* split4 ,bevel--,a cog :eel1 hav+ ! tee? set at an angle ) ! %aft on :i* x moves1 b 9 ! "s plane1 unless a skew-ge> bevel4 ,bitt+--,draw+ 9 additional ends at ! side ( healds & re$s 9 case ( a wid] w>p hav+ to be us$4 ,bobb9--,a flang$ wood5 cyl9d]4 ,bord]s--,! /ripe runn+ along ! side ( a piece ( clo?--=m$ ei!r by diff]5t col\r1 c\nts ( y>n1 or weave1 f ! c5tre4 ,box ,motion--,arrangem5t = op]at+ ! %uttle boxes 9 *eck weav+4 ,bracket--,an atta*m5t bolt$ to a fram+ = ! support ( o!r app>atus4 ,cam or ,camb--,a plate revolv+ on a %aft1 hav+ its circumf]5ce o!r ?an circul>1 ?us giv+ a reciprocat+ motion to any lev] actuat$ by x4--,appli$ 9 "s di/ricts to ! %$d+ tappets & pick+ plates4 ,cellulose--,a botanical t]m ref]r+ to an organic sub/ance ( :i* ! cotton fibre pr9cipally consi/s1 & be+ compos$ ( six atoms ( c>bon ) five ( wat]1 or ,c#f;,h#aj,o#e4 ,clo?--,! te*nical "n = wov5 cotton fabrics3 al?\gh clo? is ! popul> "n = wooll5 & wor/$ fabrics1 & cotton is usually call$ calico1 or "s su* "n1 yet 9 ! trade ! "n ( clo? is always giv5 to cotton goods4 ,compass ,bo>d--,ano!r "n = ! cumb] bo>d4 ,cop--,! cyl9drical coil ( y>n =m$ at ! mule1 or1 9 ! case ( two-fold y>n1 at ! tw9]4 ,cord--,! b&s us$ 9 atta*+ ! healds to ! heald-roll]s1 or lambs--i4e41 heald cords2 also a v co>se ?read1 us$ z a head+ or /ripe bord]2 a "n giv5 to a clo? be>+ a /ripe1 =m$ by us+ cord w>p y>n2 & also a contraction ( corduroy4 ,c\nts--,a sy/em ( indicat+ ! f95ess ( y>n1 writt5 by plac+ 's aft] ! figures signify+ ! numb] ( hanks p] lb4--?us1 8#dj's02 o!rwise1 gri/ or numb]s4 ,cov]--,a "n giv5 to ! d[ny appe>ance ( clo? or y>n4 ,cross-b&--,sometimes appli$ to y>ns spun twi/-way1 9 contradi/9ction to op5-b&4 ,cross-bord]--,a head+ to a piece ( clo? or h&k]*ief1 ei!r =m$ by col\r$ or o!r weft1 or by a *ange 9 ! patt]n4 ,cumb] ,bo>d--,! p]=at$ frame = ! guidance ( ! h>ness 9 ! jacqu>d or "s dobby %$d+ motions4 ,cutt+--,! sev]ance ( ! pile w>p or pile weft 9 a fabric :i* requires ! slitt+ ( "s filam5t1 s z to produce a nap1 =m$ by %ort ?reads pres5t+ _! section on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,cut--,a l5g? ( w>p requir$ to weave a piece ( clo?2 also ! piece :5 wov54 ,deliquesc5t--,a sub/ance :i* t5ds to liquefy 9 ! air--?us1 *loride ( magnesium t5ds to reta9 dampness & cause a fabric 9 :i* x is pres5t to become moi/4 ,d5t--,a space betwe5 ! wires ( a re$1 o!rwise split4 ,draft--,a plan %[+ ! ord] 9 :i* ! ends are drawn ?r\gh ! healds 7see page #id74 ,elongat$ ,twills--,twill$ clo?1 9 :i* ! wale ext5ds a great] di/ance ?an usual be=e rea*+ ! o!r side ( ! fabric1 caus$ by weav+ two or m picks be=e alt]+ ! ris5 ends =m+ ! wale4 ,^! twills d n run at an angle ( #de degrees4 ,end--,! te*nical "n = a ?read4 ,ent]+ ,draft--,! sy/em ( draw+ ! w>p ?r\gh ! healds 7see ,draft74 ,fell 7( ,clo?7--,! edge ( ! fabric 79 ! loom7 :i* has mo/ rec5tly be5 wov54 ,fill+--,am4 = weft4 ,fix+--,am4 = tackl+4 ,flue--,"o lap ( ! fold$ clo?4 ,flu%+--,br++ ! w>p or weft to ! surface ( ! clo? )\t int]weav+4 ,fly-re$--,sc4 = loose re$4 ,gaws--,sc4 = goal4 ,ge>s--,sc4 = healds4 ,goal--,a gap caus$ 9 a piece by ! clo? be+ drawn =w>d )\t ! weft int]weav+1 especially :5 us$ to m>k ! end ( a piece4 ,grey--,y>n or clo? 9 an undy$ or unblea*$ /ate4 ,gri/--,synonym\s ) c\nts 7,sc474 ,gr\nd--,t portion ( a fabric1 usually ( a simple weave1 :i* s]ves z a base on :i* to display a figure4 ,hank--,a measurem5t ( y>n4 ,9 cotton1 #hdj y>ds4 ,h>ness--,! arrangem5t ( lea%es 9 a jacqu>d4 7,am4 = a heald47 ,heald--,! arrangem5t ( top & bottom /aves1 c>ry+ ! lea%es ) eyes = use 9 /ave "w4--,sc41 h$dle2 ,am41 h>ness4 ,lag--,a b> ( ! lattice us$ 9 dobby "w4 ,la! 7,s\? ,lanca%ire7--,synonym\s ) slay4 ,lay--,am4 & ,sc4 = slay4 ,leaf--,a heald or a plate ( ! %$d+ tappet--e4g41 ?ree-leaf twill ?ree-/ave twill4 ,l+o--,! weight bel[ ! lea%es 9 ! jacqu>d4 ,l4,s4--,abbreviation ( 8long /ick40 ,mail-eye--,! ap]ture 9 ! h>ness = ! reception ( ! ?read4 ,manufactur+--7,vide ,*apt] ,i474 ,ma%--7,vide ,index74--,o!rwise sma%1 or trap4 ,mitre ,:eels--,bevel :eels :i* ge> ) & are exactly simil> to ea* o!r4 ,op5-b& ,y>n--,y>n spun weft-way--t is1 twi/$ ov] to ! "r4 ,p4,c4--,p9 cop--i4e41 weft size ( cop4 ,pick--,! ins]tion ( a ?read ( weft2 ! propulsion ( ! %uttle ?r\gh ! %$2 ! "t occupi$ 9 ! op5+ ( ! %$1 ! pick+1 & beat+ up4--,a t]m us$ to signify ! numb] ( picks 9 a qu>t]-in*4 ,pirn--,a wood5 tube on :i* is w\nd ! weft us$ = head+s1 etc4 ,ply--,a ?ickness or lay] ( fabric--?us1 two-ply1 ?ree-ply1 ref] to d\ble or triple clo?4 ,positive ,motion--,a motion driv5 by ge>+ z di/9ct f "o driv5 by friction or "s non-positive =ce4 ,pure ,size--,siz+ ) vegetable or animal sub/ances1 us$ = light p]c5tages4 ,range--,a s]ies ( clo?s simil> 9 /yle1 b v>y+ 9 wid? or o!r dim5sions4 ,re$--7,vide ,*apt] ,,iii474--,also ! numb] ( ends p] qu>t]-in*4 ,run--,a /ripe ( col\r 9 a fabric4 ,scobs--,sc4 = slatt]+4 ,selvage--,! sides ( a fabric4 ,sett--,! f95ess ( re$s--re$ c\nts4 ,also signify+ ! am\nt ( w>p on ! beams :i* are siz$ at "o "t4 ,%aft--,a heald4 ,%$--,! op5+ made 9 ! w>p = ! passage ( ! %uttle2 also1 a weav+ mill4 ,%ot--,sc4 = pick4 ,slay--,o!rwise lay or la! 7vide ,index74 ,sma%--,synonym\s ) ma% or trap 7vide ,index74 ,split--,d5t4 ,s4,s4--,abbreviation ( 8%ort /ick40 ,/ave--,equival5t to %aft4 ,/rip--,a n>r[ b> ( head+4 ,/ud--,a %ort project+ p9 to c>ry a :eel or :eels4 ,tapes--,bord]s ( cramp$ or co>se w>p4 ,tappet--7,see ,index74--,sc4 = wip]4 ,te*nical--,specially app]ta9+ to an indu/rial art1 bus9ess1 or pr(ession4 ,te*nology--,! bran* ( k deal+ ) ! sy/ematic /udy ( ! indu/rial arts4 ,t]ry--,uncut or loop pile4 ,trap--,synonym\s ) ma%4 ,trevette--,a knife us$ 9 cutt+ ! pile wires out ( ! clo?4 ,tun+--,tackl+4 ,turns 7p] in*7--,! ext5t ( ! torsion 9 y>n4 ,t4,w4--,twi/-way y>n or ?read1 :i*1 9 be+ spun1 has be5 twi/$ ov] to ! left--di/9ct f weft-way4 ,tweel--,sc4 = twill4 ,twi/--,w>p y>n4 ,up-tak+--,sc4 = ! take-up motion4 ,w>p--,! y>n arrang$ l5g?-way ( ! clo?--! full beam ( w>p y>n4 ,wat] ,t4--,?ro/le twi/4 ,waves--,zigzag twill patt]n4 ,wax--,cotton wax is a sub/ance coat+ ! outside ( cotton fibres1 & pres5t to ! ext5t ( ab\t #a_/b p] c5t4 ,x is a br[ni% horny vegetable wax4 ,weft--,! y>n arrang$ across ! clo?4 ,weft-way--,y>n twi/$ ov] to ! "r 9 sp9n+4 ,weft may be ei!r twi/-way or weft-way4 ,w4,w4--,weft-way4 ,:ip-roll--,am4 = back-re/4 ,:ip-?read--,! cross+ ?read 9 gauze4 ,wo(--,! weft4 ,wrai?1 ,wra!1 or ,ra!--,! re$ comb us$ = guid+ ! y>n to ! beam4 ,wrap 7,w>p]'s7--,vide index4 ,wyp] or ,wip]--,sc4 = tappets4 ,y>n--,! ?read ( twi/$ fibres4 ,,index4 ,a ,accr+ton trade1 #ab ,adhesive sub/ances1 #cd1 #cg ,am]ican cotton1 #af ,am]ican trade t]ms1 #afe ,analysis ( patt]ns1 #ij ,antiseptics1 #cd1 #cf ,area 7circul>71 #aei ,arrangem5t ( looms1 #ga ,arrangem5t ( %$1 #ai ,b ,back beams1 #dj ,ball siz+1 #dh ,ball w>p+1 #cj ,ball w>ps1 #bi ,b>e clo?1 #ha ,beam+ or beam w>p+1 #be ,beat+ up1 #ee1 #fa ,becks1 #cg ,blackburn dobby1 #ajh ,blackburn pick1 #ei ,blackburn /&>d li/1 #aed ,blackburn trade1 #aa ,black oil1 #hb ,blea*+1 #hc ,bobb9 w>p]s1 #bb ,bolton quilts1 #aca ,bolton re$ c\nts1 #adg ,bolton trade1 #ab ,bottom+1 #gc1 #ha ,brad=d loom1 #eh ,brake1 #fi ,brocade1 #acj ,bullhide1 #ajb ,burnley trade1 #ab ,bury trade1 #ac ,c ,calculations =-- ,clo?1 #adi ,c\nts1 #adc ,eng9es1 #aeh ,healds1 #adh ,jacqu>ds1 #abi ,re$s1 #adf ,siz+1 #adi1 #aeb ,spe$s1 #gf1 #aef ,capital inve/$1 #i ,c>d cutt+1 #abg ,c>d+1 #ag ,c>ds = drop-box1 #adj ,c>twright's loom1 #d ,ca/+ out1 #abi ,c5tre tie1 #abf ,*ecks1 #acc ,*eck$ %irt+s1 #acd ,*9a clay1 #cf ,*loride ( magnesium1 #cf ,*loride ( z9c1 #cf ,circle swivels1 #ada ,circul> boxes1 #adj ,circumf]5ce1 to f9d1 #aeh ,classification ( fancy clo?s1 #hi ,clo?1 cotton1 #hj ,clo?1 cov] (1 #ha ,clo?1 faults 91 #ha ,clo? look+1 #hj ,clo?1 unev51 #ha ,coal1 #aeh ,cockly clo?1 #ha ,col\r$ spots1 #ada ,col\r$ w>p+1 #bh ,col\r$ w9d+1 #bd ,comb+1 #ag ,common dobby1 #ajh ,contraction1 #adi ,cop1 #ba ,cop bottoms1 #ba ,cop nose1 #ba ,cords1 #hg1 #ajb ,cotton1 #ad ,cotton clo?1 #hj ,cotton cultivation1 #ad ,cotton di/ricts1 #af ,cotton fibre1 #ad ,cotton l&s1 #ad ,cotton manufacture--syllabus1 #afa ,cotton plant1 #ad ,cotton1 selection (1 #af ,c\nt]panes1 #aca ,c\nts on beam1 #aec ,c\nts1 re$1 #adf ,c\nts1 s+le y>n1 #adc ,c\nts1 two & ?ree-fold1 #ade ,cracks1 #ha ,creel1 #be ,cretonnes1 #hg ,cross bord]s1 #hb ,cross+ ?read1 #aaa ,d ,damask1 #acj ,d>w5 trade1 #ab ,design+1 #ic ,designs1 #ib ,dhootie m>k]1 #dh ,dhooties1 #hd ,dhooties1 figur$1 #aaj ,diamet] ?reads1 #adf ,diggle's *a91 #ace ,dimity1 #acj ,divid5d ( loom1 #ff ,divisions ( ! indu/ry1 #a ,dobbies1 #ajj1 #ajc ,dobby sides1 #aaj ,dome/ics1 #he ,d\ble clo?1 #aji ,d\ble lift1 #ajd ,d\ble y>n1 #ade ,d\p1 #gg ,d\p healds1 #aab ,draft = pla91 #ee ,draft+1 #id ,drag take-up1 #ajc ,draw+1 #ag ,draw+-91 #di ,dress+ ma*9e1 #e ,dress+1 old sy/em1 #e ,drop box1 #acd ,dry+ cyl9d]s1 #da ,dwell ( slay1 #fb ,e ,ecc5tricity ( slay1 #fb ,eng9es1 horse-p[]1 #aeh ,examples wage calculations1 #aed ,exp&+ comb1 #bf1 #db ,exports1 cotton clo?1 #aj1 #hd1 #he1 #hf1 #hg ,f ,factory ,acts1 #g ,fall+ rods1 #bf ,fancy clo?1 classification (1 #hi ,f>9a1 #ce ,fa/ re$1 #fd ,faults 9 clo?1 #ha ,feel1 #cb ,f]m5t+ fl\r1 #cd1 #ci ,figur$ canvas1 #acj ,figur$ clo?1 #ij ,figur$ dhooties1 #aaj ,figur$ gauze1 #acj ,,figures3-- ,frontispiece3 ,s+le-action jacqu>d loom #a ,p]fect cotton fibre #b ,section ( same #c ,imp]fect fibre #d ,section ( same #e ,se$ & fibres #f ,section ( fibres #g ,w9d+ frame #h ,trav]se 7w9d+7 #i ,w>p+1 fall+ rods #aj ,/op-motion w>p+1 elev4 #aa plan #ab ,beam ge>+1 sla%]1 section #ac elev4 #ad ,press] plan #ae section #af ,sl[ motion plan #ag ,dhootie m>k] #ah ,heald #ai ,metallic heald #bj ,re$ #ba ,pla9 loom1 front view #bb ,pla9 loom 7"r h&71 back view #bc ,brad=d loom #bd ,diagram--ecc5tricity ( slay #be ,%uttle-box & frog1 fa/ re$ #bf ,take-up motion #bg ,weft /op motion #bh ,pla9 tappet #bi ,po9t pap] #cj ,pla9 clo? #ca ,plan ( clo? #cb ,design #cc ,draft #cd ,lift+ plan & tie #ce ,draft #cf ,draft #cg ,design1 etc4 #ch ,draft & tie #ci ,sate5 #dj ,pla9 #da ,sate5 & pla9 #db ,plate1 sate5 tappet #dc ,smalley's motion on loom #dd ,f\r-leaf twill #de ,f\r-leaf twill #df ,velvete5 #dg ,con/itution cord #dh ,keighley dobby #di ,dobby lattice #ej ,dobby pegg+ #ea ,blackburn dobby #eb ,dobby pegg+ #ec ,gauze--sket* #ed ,gauze--section #ee ,l5o--sket* #ef ,draft--gauze #eg ,d\p heald #eh ,nett+ #ei ,nett+ #fj ,figur$ gauze--sket* #fa ,h&k]*ief loom #fb ,jacqu>d--section1 s+le-action #fc ,ne$les1 jacqu>d #fd ,d\ble-action jacqu>d--s+le cyl9d] #fe ,d\ble-action jacqu>d--d\ble cyl9d] #ff ,london tie #fg ,/raight tie #fh ,lay-ov] tie #fi ,c5tre tie #gj ,piano c>d-cutt+ ma*9e #ga ,diggle's *a9 #gb ,*a9 l9ks = ditto #gc ,wright ,%aw's drop box #gd ,plates = ditto 7,also vide ,plates47 ,f9i%+1 #hc ,floats1 #ha ,fl\r1 #cd ,fl\r1 te/+1 #cd ,=k & grid motion1 #fh ,friction--siz+1 #dc ,fu/ian1 #ajb ,g ,gait+ w>ps1 #gb ,gauze1 #aaa ,g+ham1 #acd ,goods made--#ahjj-ahfj1 #h ,goods made--pres5t "t1 #hc ,gri/1 #adc ,gr\nd = jacqu>d patt]ns1 #aji1 #abi ,h ,h&k]*iefs1 #aae1 #acd ,h&k]*ief loom1 #aaf ,h&s ( looms1 #ga ,hank1 #adc ,hank1 w9d+ f1 #be ,hasl+d5 trade1 #ab ,head+s1 #hb ,headles1 #ea ,heald c\nts1 #adh ,heald motions1 #gi ,healds1 #ea ,heck box1 #cj ,h$dles1 #ea ,h$dl+1 #id ,hi/ory ( trade1 #c ,honeycomb1 #ie1 #aca ,hook+1 #hj ,horse-p[]1 #aeh ,hydromet]1 #ch ,i ,,illu/rations3-- ,beam ge>+1 sla%]1 plan1 #db section1 #dc ,blackburn dobby1 #ajg ,brad=d loom1 #ei ,c5tre tie1 #abf ,*a9 l9ks1 ,diggle's motion1 #acg ,con/itution cord1 #ajb ,cotton fibre1 #ae section1 #ae ,design1 #ib1 #if1 #ih1 #aja & #ajb ,dhootie m>k]1 #dg ,diggle's *a9 drop box1 #acf ,dobbies1 #ajd1 #ajg ,dobby pegg+1 #ajf1 #ajh ,dobby lattice1 #ajf ,d\ble-action jacqu>d1 ,s+le cyl9d]1 #abc ,ditto1 d\ble cyl9d]1 #abd ,d\p healds1 #aac ,drafts1 #ib1 #id1 #ie ,ecc5tricity ( slay1 #fb ,fa/ re$ loom1 #fd ,figur$ gauze1 #aae ,f\r-leaf twill1 #b ,gauze1 #aab ,h&k]*ief loom1 #aaf ,healds1 #ej ,heald motions1 #ef ,imp]fect cotton fibre1 #ae section1 #ae ,jacqu>d loom1 s+le action1 ,frontispiece ,jacqu>d loom1 s+le action1 section1 #aai ,jacqu>d loom1 d\ble action1 #abc ,jacqu>d loom1 d\ble action1 d\ble cyl9d]1 #abd ,keighley dobby1 #ajd ,lay-ov] tie1 #abf ,l5o1 #aab ,lift+ plan1 #ib1 #ig ,looms1 #ec1 #ei ,london tie1 #abe ,metallic healds1 #ej ,ne$les1 #abb ,nett+1 #aad1 #aae ,p>ts ( loom1 #ef ,pegg+ = dobby1 #ajf1 #ajh ,p]fect cotton fibre1 #ae ,piano c>d-cutt+ ma*9e1 #abh ,pla9 clo?1 #ia ,pla9 loom1 #ec ,pla9 loom 9 p>ts1 #ef ,pla9 tappets1 #ge ,plates1 ,wright ,%aw's loom1 #adj ,po9t pap]1 #ij ,plan ( clo?1 #ia ,plan ( %$--,plate ,i41 #ai ,press]1 sla%]1 plan1 #de section1 #de ,re$1 #ej ,sate51 #ih ,sectional w>p+--,plate ,,iii41 #bi ,se$ & fibre1 #ae ,%uttle box & frog1 #fd ,sla%] siz+ ma*9e1 #dj ,sl[ motion1 #df ,smalley's motion1 #ii ,/op motion1 w>p+1 plan1 #bg section1 #bg ,/raight tie1 #abe ,take-up motion1 #bf ,tappet plates1 #ge ,ties1 #abe1 #abf ,trav]se motion1 w9d+ frame1 #bc ,velvete51 #aja ,w>p+1 fall+ rods1 #bd /op motion1 #bg ,weft /op motion1 #fh ,w9d+ frame1 #bb ,wright ,%aw's drop box1 #ach ,indian cotton1 #af ,+r$i5ts1 size1 #cd ,introduction1 #a ,inv5tions1 #c ,irel&1 cotton trade (1 #ad ,j ,jacconetts1 #hf ,jacqu>d1 #aai ,capacity1 #aah ,c>ds1 #abj1 #abg ,clo?1 #abi ,weav+1 #abg ,k ,keighley dobby1 #ajd ,l ,lappet weav+1 #adb ,lay-ov] tie1 #abf ,lease1 #cj ,lea%1 #aaj1 #abj ,legislation1 #f ,l5g? w>ps1 #adi1 #aeb ,l5o1 #hh1 #aab1 #aad ,liability = mildew1 #cg ,lift+ plan1 #if ,limit$ liability1 #g1 #i ,l95 c\nts1 #add ,long clo?s1 #he ,long /ick1 #afg ,loom1 #eb ,loom fix+1 #ga ,loom+1 #di ,looms1 numb] (1 #aa ,loose re$1 #d1 #fc ,m ,madapollams1 #he ,madras musl91 #acj ,man*e/] trade1 #ab ,mangle :eel motion1 #bc ,manufactur+1 mean+ ( t]m1 #a ,manufactur+ processes1 #ai ,m>ket t[n1 #b ,m>k+ motions1 #dg ,ma%es1 #ha ,measur+ motion--w>p+1 #bh --weav+1 #aag ,m]*&ise ,m>ks ,act1 #h ,metallic healds1 #ea ,metal size1 #cf ,mexicans1 #he ,mildew 1 #cf ,mildew1 liability =1 #cg ,mildew1 prev5tion (1 #cf ,mill+ up1 #adi ,mix+s1 cotton1 #ag ,mix+s1 size1 #cg ,mix+s1 light size1 #ci ,mix+s1 m$ium size1 #ci ,mix+s1 heavy size1 #ci ,movem5ts ( loom1 #ee ,mull1 #hf ,n ,nett+1 #aae ,non-positive take-up1 #ajc ,numb] ( ma*9es 9 %$1 #ai ,o ,oatmeal clo?1 #aji1 #abi ,oldham trade1 #ac ,op5+1 #ag ,ov]look]s 7loom71 #gb ,ov]pick1 #ei ,osbalde/on1 ,john1 #d ,p ,pack+1 #hc ,p>ts ( a loom1 #ee1 #ef ,patt]n prick+1 #ij ,pegg+ = dobby1 #ajf1 #aji1 #aaa ,p]c5tages ( size1 #cc1 #ch1 #adi1 #aec ,p]c5tages ( wa/e1 #bg1 #aed ,pick+1 #ee1 #ei ,pile weav+1 #aja1 #aca ,pill[-slip weav+1 #aji ,pla9 clo?1 #hd1 #ij1 #ia ,pla9 draft+1 #ee ,pla9 loom1 #eb ,plait+1 #hj ,plan ( %$1 #ah ,,plates3-- ,i4 ,plan ( %$1 #ai ,,ii4 ,/op-motion w>p+1 #bg ,,iii4 ,sectional w>p+1 #bi ,,iv4 ,sla%] siz+ ma*9e1 #dj ,v4 ,pla9 loom 9 p>ts1 #ef ,,vi4 ,heald top motions1 #ef ,,vii4 ,dobbi$ loom1 #ajd ,po9t pap]1 #ij ,position ( w>p1 #eh ,potato />*1 #ce ,prep>atory processes1 #ai1 #ba ,press]s1 #de ,pre/on trade1 #ab ,pr9t]s1 #hf ,processes1 sp9n+1 #ag ,processes1 weav+1 #ai ,q ,quilts1 #aca ,r ,rais+1 #hc1 #ajc ,rat+ goods1 #adi ,re$ & pick1 #he ,re$ c\nts1 #adf ,re$s1 #ea ,re$ space1 #gi ,re$ table1 #adh ,re$y clo?1 #ha ,repeat+ jacqu>d c>ds1 #abh ,rice />*1 #ce ,r+ bobb9s1 #bd ,ro*dale trade1 #ac ,rov+1 #ag ,s ,sago1 #ce ,sat91 #ih1 #ajj ,sate5s1 #hg ,sate5 motion1 #ii ,scot* re$ c\nts1 #adg ,scot* trade1 #ac ,scroll pick1 #gh ,scut*+1 #ag ,sea ,isl& cotton1 #af ,sectional w>p+1 #bh ,selection1 w>p1 #ba1 #cc ,selection1 weft1 #fj ,selection1 y>ns1 #ba1 #fj ,%$1 #ai ,%$d+1 #eg ,%$d+ motion1 #gi ,%$ 7w>p71 #ed1 #eh ,%irt+s1 #hd ,%ort /ick1 #afh ,%uttle1 #fj ,%uttle fly+1 #gc ,%uttle race1 #fj1 #fc ,side tappets1 #eh ,silk c\nts1 #add ,site = %$1 #bj ,size ( w>p %$1 #eh ,siz+ calculations1 #adi1 #aeb ,siz+--dry+1 #da ,siz+ head/ock1 #db ,siz+ ma*9]y1 #e1 #ci ,siz+ mat]ials1 #cd ,siz+--object1 #cb ,siz+--p]c5tages1 #cc1 #ch ,siz+ roll]s1 #dj ,siz+ "u pressure1 #da ,sla%]1 #ci ,sla%+1 #ci ,slay1 #fj ,sl[ motion1 #de ,slubb+1 #ag ,smalley's motion1 #ii ,sma%1 #ha ,sn>ls1 #bb ,snicks1 #bb ,soap1 #ce ,soda1 #cf ,s(t5]1 #cd1 #ce1 #cg ,s[ box1 #dj ,specification %$1 #ai ,spe$ loom1 #gi ,spe$ %afts1 #aef ,spe$ tappet %aft1 #gf ,sp9dles1 numb] (1 #aa ,sp9n+ dep>tm5t1 #af ,sp9n+--mule1 ?ro/le1 r+1 #ah ,split motion1 #gh ,split rods1 #db ,splits1 #gg ,/&>d goods1 #hh ,/>*es1 #cd1 #cg ,/ati/ics1 #i ,/eep+ fl\r1 #cd1 #ci ,/ockport c\nts1 #adg ,/ockport trade1 #ac ,/op motion1 w>p+1 #bf ,/raight tie1 #abe ,/ripes1 #aja1 #acc ,surat cotton1 #af ,syllabus--,cotton manufacture1 #afa ,syllabus--,weav+ & patt]n design+1 #afb ,t ,tackl+1 #gb ,take-up motions1 #fe1 #ajc ,tall[1 #ce ,tap+1 #ci ,tappets1 #ee1 #eg1 #ge1 #ig ,tappets1 con/ruction1 #eg1 #ii ,tappets1 pla91 #ee1 #eg ,t-clo?1 #he ,t]ry t[els1 #acb ,temple roll]s1 #d1 #fi ,te/+ y>n1 #adf ,?ick sets1 #ajb ,?ro/le bobb9s1 #bd ,tie1 #ig ,tie = jacqu>d1 #abd ,toilet clo?1 #aca ,top motions1 #gi ,tim+1 #gj ,too?1 #bh ,trav]se1 #bc ,tread+ plan1 #ig ,turkey-r$s1 #hf ,turki% t[els1 #acb ,twaddle1 #ch ,twill %aft spe$1 #gf1 #aeg ,twi/1 #ba1 #cc ,twi/+1 #di ,two & ?ree-fold y>n1 #ade ,u ,"u pick1 #gh ,unev5 clo?1 #ha ,upl&s cotton1 #af ,v ,v>ieties ( goods1 #hc ,velvete5s1 #hg1 #aja ,w ,wages--loom+1 #ej ,wages--weav+1 #gd ,wages--w9d+1 #bd ,wages--/&>d li/1 #aed ,w>d's dobby1 #aje ,w>p1 #ba1 #cc ,w>p+ 7beam71 #be ,w>p+ calculations1 #bh1 #bi1 #cj1 #aeb ,w>p+ mill1 #cj ,w>p+ sev]al c\nts1 #bh ,w>p+ /op motion1 #bf ,w>p l9e1 #eh ,w>p pile1 #ij1 #aca ,wa/e1 #bg1 #gd ,wa/e1 weav]'s1 #gd ,wax1 #ce ,weav]s1 #gd ,weav+1 #eb ,weav+ & patt]n design+ syllabus1 #afb ,weft1 #fa ,weft pile1 #aja ,weft /op motion1 #d1 #fg ,weight-giv+ size1 #cf ,weight piece1 #adi ,weight size 9 piece1 #adi1 #aec ,weight w>p 9 piece1 #adi ,weight weft 9 piece1 #adi ,w9d+1 #bb ,w9d+ frame1 #bb ,wit* ma*9e1 #ajh ,work+ design1 #ig ,workpeople1 numb] (1 #aa ,wor/$ c\nts1 #add ,wov5 pile1 #ij1 #aja1 #aca ,wrap reel1 #add ,wrap1 w>p]s'1 #bh ,wrapp+1 #add ,wright ,%aw's drop box1 #ach ,y ,y>n calculations1 #adc ,y>n measure1 #adc ,york%ire loom1 #eh ,z ,z9c1 muriate (1 #cf ,illu/ration3 ,decoration ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,ballantyne1 ,,hanson ,,& ,,co4 ,,ed9burgh ,,& ,,london ,,adv]tisem5ts4 ,,flem+',s 8,,/&>d0 ,,oak ,,tann$ ,,ma9 ,,driv+ ,,b&s4 ,,any ,,wid? ,,or ,,?ickness4 ,,deliv]$ ,,at ,a ,,day',s ,,notice ,,if ,,requir$4 ,illu/ration ,,belt+ ,,= ,,all ,,requirem5ts4 ,,ord9>y ,,wid?s ,,9 ,,/ock4 ,,camel ,,hair ,,belt+4 ,,cotton ,,belt+4 ,,l9k ,,belt+4 ,,laces4 ,,pick]s4 ,,pick+ ,,b&s4 ,,mill ,,lea!rs4 ,,mule ,,belt+4 ,a ,speciality4 ,,jo9ts ,,cem5t$ ,,only1 ,,& ,,gu>ante$ ,,equal ,,to ,,any ,,belt+ ,,( ,,?is ,,description ,,9 ,,! ,,m>ket4 ,apply = ,catalogue1 ,conta9s ,valuable ,comm]cial ,in=mation4 ,po/ free4 ,,belt+4 ,compris+ ,firms e/abli%$ #ajj ye>s4 ,,flem+1 ,,birkby ,,goodall1 ,,lim,d444 ,belt+1 c41 ,manufactur]s1 ,,we/ ,,grove ,,mill1 ,,halifax1 ,,engl&4 ,,bran*es ,,at ,,liv]s$ge ,,& ,,brigh\se1 ,,yorks4 ,clo?1 ,cr[n #hvo4 ,second ,edition4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,weav+ ,calculations4 ,,by ,,! ,,same ,,au?or4 ,a ,volume on all ,v>ieties ( ,calculations ,requir$ 9 ! ,weav+ & ,prep>atory ,processes1 ,/&>d ,li/s ( ,wages1 c4 ,,op9ions ,,( ,,! ,,press4 ,mr4 ,,brooks is well & fav\rably kn[n 9 ! textile indu/ries z a writ] ( excell5t text-books 9 connection ) ! cotton trade4444 ,9 ?is book he has succe$$ 9 do+ ! "w1 avoid+ on ! "o h& intricate ma!matical problems1 :i* are disc>d$ 9 practice1 & on ! o!r giv+ cle> & simple rules = mak+ all ! calculations requir$ 9 ! sp9n+ & manufactur+ ( cotton goods4--,textile ,record]4 ,hi!rto ! books publi%$ on weav+ calculations h lack$ ! ?or\gh in/ruction :i* *>act]ises ,mr4 ,,brooks',s bro*ure1 & _m cotton /ud5ts w f9d x a decid$ly useful guide4 ,! *apt]s on clo? & y>n calculations w be f\nd decid$ly useful & int]e/+4 ,mr4 ,brooks is to be congratulat$ on plac+ be=e ! trade a vade mecum ( consid]able m]it4--,textile ,_w4 ,?is is "o ( ! mo/ useful works connect$ ) cotton manufactur+ t we h ev] se54 ,no ov]se] or any "o hav+ to d ) calculations 9 a cotton-mill %\ld be )\t x4--,bo/on ,j\rnal ( ,comm]ce1 ,u4,s4,a4 ,! au?or ( ?is book is well kn[n = 8 excell5t "w on #8,cotton ,manufactur+1' :i* deals v fully ) all op]ations involv$ 9 ! indu/ry4 ,^! calculations w also be f\nd extremely useful to ^? = :om x is int5d$4 ,x has be5 c>efully writt51 & %\ld h a place on e weav+ book%elf4--,textile ,manufactur]4 c4 c4 ,,asa ,,lees ,,co41 ,limit$1 ,soho ,iron ,works1 ,,oldham4 ,address = ,telegrams--,,asa1 ,,oldham4 ,con/ructors ( ,,all ,,k9ds ,,( ,,ma*9]y = ,prep>+1 ,sp9n+ ,d\bl+ ,,cotton ,,& ,,wool4 ,,new ,,& ,,important ,,te*nical ,,works4 ,,! 8,,/ud5ts' ,,cotton ,,sp9n+10 ,by ,,joseph ,,nasmi?1 ,associate ,in/itution ,me*anical ,eng9e]s2 ,memb] ,man*e/] ,association ,eng9e]s2 ,editor ( 8,textile ,record]20 ,au?or ( 8,mod]n ,cotton ,sp9n+ ,ma*9]y40 ,a book :i*1 view$ z a :ole1 is admirably adapt$ = its purpose4--,man*e/] ,gu>dian4 #8,! ,/ud5t's ,cotton ,sp9n+' is a "w we c unhesitat+ly recomm5d4--,textile ,manufactur]4 ,! in=mation is d]iv$ f ! mo/ mod]n s\rces1 & w be f\nd ( p]man5t value to ^? connect$ ) ! cotton indu/ry4--,indu/ries4 ,! "w appe>s to cov] ! :ole field1 ev5 to ! m9ute/ detail4--,man*e/] ,city ,news4 ,its pages ab\nd 9 practical h9ts4--,wool & ,cotton ,report] 7,bo/on1 ,u4,s4,a474 ,! book %\ld be 9 ! h&s ( e wide-awake manufactur] & sp9n]4--,bo/on ,j\rnal ( ,comm]ce4 ,a volume :i* w be f\nd valuable1 n only to ! /ud5t1 b to ! m5 :o "k some?+ b want to le>n m ( ! art ( sp9n+ & to /udy ! subject 9 a practical way4--,textile ,record 7,philadelphia1 ,u4,s4,a474 ,aft] c>eful /udy ( ! "w1 our review] is ( op9ion t x is unequall$ by any o!r book ( cotton lit]ature4--,indian ,textile ,j\rnal4 ,! book we _c recomm5d too w>mly1 n only to /ud5ts1 b also to all te*nical m51 & sp9n+ manag]s engag$ 9 practice4--,oe/]i*'s ,woll5 und ,li55 ,indu/rie4 ,! ,book conta9s #ddh ,pages & #ajj ,illu/rations1 & =ms a ,complete ,h&book on ! subject4 ,,price #fs4 ,by ! same ,au?or4 8,,mod]n ,,cotton ,,sp9n+ ,,ma*9]y10 ,,its ,,pr9ciples ,,& ,,con/ruction4 #bcb ,detail$ ,draw+s ( ! ,late/ ,types ( ,ma*9es4 ,price #aes41 deliv]$ free 9 ! ,unit$ ,k+dom4 ,! be/ & mo/ complete book extant on ! ma*9]y employ$ 9 cotton sp9n+4--,textile ,manufactur]1 ,septemb] #ae1 #ahij4 ,no /ud5t or sp9n] %\ld be )\t x4--,textile ,manufactur]1 ,octob] #ae1 #ahij4 ,_c fail to be ! /&>d au?ority = _m ye>s4--,textile ,record]1 ,novemb] #ae1 #ahij4 ,has ! ess5tial m]it ( atta9+ :at x aims at--namely1 complet5ess4--,man*e/] ,exam9] & ,times4 ,a "w ( great value to all :o are int]e/$ 9 ! manufacture or use ( cotton sp9n+ ma*9]y4--,man*e/] ,gu>dian4 ,,man*e/]3 ,,joseph ,,nasmi?1 #fa ,b>ton ,arcade4 ,e/abli%$ #agia4 ,,john ,,:iteley ,,sons1 ,limit$1 ,,brunswick ,,mills1 ,,halifax1 ,,engl&4 ,manufactur]s ( ,c>d ,clo?+ 9 ,mild1 & ,h>d5$ & ,temp]$ ,/eel ,wire1 = ,cotton1 ,wool1 ,wor/$1 & ,silk1 ) ,r\nd1 ,flat1 ,flat-to-,b5d1 ,angul>1 & ,convex ,wire1 ,plat$ ,wire1 ,music ,wire1 & ,,gr\nd ,,ne$le ,,po9ts4 ,,pat5t ,,special ,,poli%$ ,,pl\gh-,,gr\nd ,,c>d ,,clo?+4 ,! ,sides ( ! ,tee? ( ! ,pl\gh-,gr\nd ,c>d ,clo?+ made by ,,john ,,:iteley ,,sons1 ,limit$1 are s smoo? t x is be+ us$ ext5sively on ! ,f9e/ ,cottons4 ,we %all be glad to furni% ,us]s ) enl>g$ ,micro-,photographs illu/rat+ ! rem>kable smoo?ness atta9$4 ,,improv$ ,,tak]s-,,9 ,,& ,,dirt ,,roll]s4 ,c>d ,tacks4 ,gauges = ,sett+ ,cyl9d]s1 ,d(f]s1 ,flats1 c4 ,flats ,re-cut & ,clo!d ) ,:iteley's ,pat5t ,clasp1 ,a%wor?'s ,me?ods or ,lead ,rivets1 & ,tru$1 ,te/$1 & ,gr\nd ready = use4 ,,:iteley',s ,,improv$ ,,t5sion ,,ma*9e ,,= ,,m\nt+ ,,fillets4 ,,ne$le-,,po9t$ ,,/ripp+ ,,roll]s1 ,,burni%+ ,,bru%es1 ,,spiral ,,flat ,,/ripp+ ,,bru%es4 ,,c>d+ ,,eng9es ,,clo!d1 ,,gr\nd1 ,,& ,,/>t$ ,,by ,,exp]i5c$ ,,m54 ,samples & ,e/imates on ,application4 ,,james ,,briggs ,,sons1 ,,lion ,,oil ,,works1 ,,blackley1 ,,man*e/]4 ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,,all ,,classes ,,( ,,oils = ,,ma*9]y1 ,,sp9dles ,,& ,,looms4 ,,oils = ,,m>9e ,,& ,,/ation>y ,,eng9es4 ,,oils = ,,%aft+1 ,,cyl9d]s1 ,,& ,,valves4 ,z ,us$ by "s ( ! ,l>ge/ ,mills1 ,/eam%ips1 c4 ,cable & ,telegraphic ,address--8,,samoht1 ,,man*e/]40 ,,geo4 ,,?omas ,,co41 #bh ,,deansgate1 ,,man*e/]1 ,,eng9e]s1 ,,contractors1 & ,,export]s ( all ,classes ( ,,ma*9]y & ,,accessories1 c4 ,n4,b4--,repres5tatives 9 all ! ,indu/rial ,c5tres ( ! ,_w4 ,,ma*9]y = ,,sp9n+ & ,,weav+ ,cotton1 ,wool1 ,wor/$1 ,flax1 ,hemp1 ,jute1 ,silk1 c4 ,,blea*+1 ,,dye+1 ,,pr9t+1 ,,f9i%+ ,textile ,fabrics4 ,/eam ,boil]s1 ,/eam ,eng9es1 ,economis]s1 ,turb9es1 ,mill ,ge>+1 ,electric ,light+ & ,gas ,plant2 ,hoi/s1 c4 ,ironwork = ,mills f ,a to ,z--,firepro(1 c41 ,ro(+ & ,pat5t ,glaz+2 ,heat+ & ,v5tilat+ ,app>atus4 ,pap]1 ,rice1 ,sug>1 ,ice1 ,fl\r1 ,oil1 ,*emical1 ,di/ill]y1 ,iron & ,/eel ,plants4 ,portable & ,p]man5t ,railway ,plant1 ,roll+ ,/ock1 ,locomotives1 ,/eam ,%ips1 ,/eam ,laun*es1 ,dr$g]s1 c4 ,hydraulic ,ma*9]y & ,tools4 ,,sole ,,mak]s ,,& ,,proprietors ,,( ,,! ,,pat5t ,,univ]sal ,,y>n ,,assort+ ,,balances4 ,briti% ,pat5t1 ,no4 #f1gjc1 #ahhf4 ,u4,s4,a4 ,pat5t1 ,no4 #chj1hbf1 #ahhh4 ,new ,pat5ts1 ,no4 #ae1ded #ahhi1 & ,no4 #i1bfd1 #ahij4 ,n4,b4--,^! ,balances or ,y>n ,te/]s 7indisp5sable to ,sp9n]s1 ,manufactur]s1 & ,m]*ants7 indicate ! ,c\nts ( ,y>n 9 small l5g?s1 or f bits ( clo?1 9 ei!r ,cotton1 ,wooll51 ,wor/$1 ,l951 ,jute1 or o!r ,fibre4 8,,simplex0 ,,balance4 ,illu/ration3 ,scale1 #d_/e?s full size4 ,price #cjs4 complete ,illu/ration3 ,scale1 #a_/e? full size4 ,price #fes4 ,cr[n #hvo4 ,pap] ,cov]s4 ,"o ,%ill+4 ,weav+ ,exam9ation ,que/ions4 ,,cont5ts4--,six ,ye>s' ,weav+ & ,patt]n ,design+ ,que/ions4--,li/s ( ,exam9]s1 ,rules ( ,exam9ation1 c4--,! ,syllabus = ,/udy 9 ea* ( ! foll[+ ,subjects3--,wooll5 & ,wor/$ ,clo? ,weav+1 ,cotton ,weav+1 ,l95 ,weav+1 ,silk ,weav+1 & ,jute ,weav+4 ,po/ ,free1 #as4 #a;d4 ,c4 ,p4 ,,brooks1 ,,! ,,m\nt1 ,,blackburn4 ,,bobb9s1 ,,tubes1 ,,skew]s1 ,,%uttles1 c4 ,,wilson ,,bro!rs1 ,,limit$4 ,cornholme ,mills1 ,,todmord54 ,telegrams--,,wilsons1 ,,cornholme4 ,telephone1 ,no4 #g4 ,,orig9al ,,inv5tors ,,& ,,mak]s ,,( ,,/eel ,,& ,,brass ,,plat$ ,,bobb9s ,,& ,,tubes4 ,we make a speciality ( ,light ,c>droom ,tubes ) small diamet]s = f9e c\nts4 ,we h excell5t facilities = cutt+1 season+1 & p>tially prep>+ bo? ,tubes & ,bobb9s be=e turn+4 ,we h l>ge /ocks ( regul> sizes always season+1 ! process occupy+ f two mon?s up to two ye>s4 ,we are ?us enabl$ to gu>antee exact & uni=m diamet]s4 ,we are ! l>ge/ mak]s ( ,r+ ,twi/ ,bobb9s & ,r+ ,weft ,pirns4 ,e ,bobb9 is c>efully balanc$4 ,rabbe? ,r+ ,twi/ ,bobb9s1 ) ,wilson ,bro!rs' ,pat5t 8,g0 ,%ield1 are ! /ronge/ ,bobb9s 9 ! m>ket1 & capable ( resi/+ #ej p] c5t4 m pressure ?an any o!r protect$ ,bobb9s1 & #aej p] c5t4 m ?an ,bobb9s )\t metal ,protectors4 ,w>p+ & ,w9d+ ,bobb9s fitt$ ) ,wilson ,bro!rs' ,pat5t ,flange ,b9d]s _c op5 at ! ,jo9ts1 & are s made t x is almo/ impossible = !m to be brok5 ) ord9>y usage4 ,we h put d[n a plant = mak+ ,wood ,bobb9s & ,skew]s ,damp & ,/eam ,pro(4 ,we ,enamel ,rabbe? ,r+ ,twi/ & ,r+ ,weft ,pirns1 also ,lancewood ,cop ,skew]s1 s t ,y>n c be condition$ on ! ,bobb9 or ,skew] )\t damage4 ,,! ,,olde/ ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9i/s ,,9 ,,! ,,_w4 ,,devoge ,,co4 ,works--,,sycamore ,,/reet1 ,,oldham ,,road1 ,city ,(fice--#ae;a ,,york ,,/reet1 ,,man*e/]4 ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,,all ,,k9ds ,,( ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9es4 ,s+le-,lift1 ,d\ble-,lift1 ,d\ble-,cyl9d]1 & ,comp\nd ,jacqu>ds2 ,d\ble-,%$ ,jacqu>ds2 ,lace ,jacqu>ds2 ,wood ,ma*9es = ,h&-loom2 ,jacqu>d ,dobbies2 ,driv+ ,motions2 all k9ds ( ,wire & ,wire ,"w2 ,lead & ,iron ,wire ,l+oes2 ,comb]bo>ds & ,slips2 ,glass1 ,brass1 & ,/eel ,mails2 ,c\pl+s & ,lea%es2 ,h>ness ,?read2 ,spr+s1 c41 & e requisite = ,fancy ,weav+4 ,,new ,,pat5t ,,l5o ,,jacqu>d4 ,,jacqu>d ,,h>ness ,,build]s4 ,,all ,,k9ds ,,( ,,h>nesses1 ,,includ+ ,,pat5t ,,exp&+ ,,h>ness4 ,,new ,,plant ,,rec5tly ,,erect$ ,,= ,,bor+ ,,comb]bo>d ,,slips4 ,,mak]s ,,( ,,all ,,k9ds ,,( ,c>d-,cutt+ ,ma*9es4 ,piano ,ma*9es to cut f design2 ,table ,repeat]s1 ) ,v]tical & ,railway ,presses2 ,c>d ,cutt+ ,plates & ,pun*es ( e k9d2 & ,devoge's celebrat$ ,self-,act+ ,repeat]1 :i* cuts #dj ,c>ds p] m9ute4 ,illu/rations ( ?ree ( our ,ma*9es may be se5 on pages #abc1 #abd1 & #abh ( ?is "w4 ,an ,illu/rat$ ,circul> w be s5t on application4 ,,james ,,walmsley ,,sons 7,,e/abli%$ #ahdh71 ,lea!r ,curri]s1 ,/rapp+ ,manufactur]s1 & ,mill ,furni%]s ,,works3--,,av5ue ,,p>ade1 ,,accr+ton4 ,,mak]s ,,( ,,all ,,k9ds ,,( ,,roll] ,,sk9s1 ,,s+le ,,lea!r ,,belt+1 ,,d\ble ,,lea!r ,,belt+1 ,,gre5 ,,pick+ ,,b&s1 ,,oak-,,tann$ ,,pick+ ,,b&s1 ,,lea!r ,,pick]s1 ,,laces1 ,,buffalo ,,skips ,,& ,,pick]s1 ,,loom ,,fitt+s1 c4 ,& all o!r k9ds ( ,,lea!r ,,goods us$ 9 ! ,sp9n+ & ,manufactur+ ( ,cotton1 ,wooll51 ,silk1 or ,jute4 ,telegrams--8,abbey1 ,accr+ton40 ,telephone--,no4 #bc4 ,,joseph ,,cas>telli1 ,,manufactur] ,,( ,,all ,,k9ds ,,( ,,in/rum5ts ,,= ,,use ,,9 ,,mills1 ,,manufactories1 ,,eng9e]+ ,,works1 c4 ,illu/ration ,,new ,,microscope ,,clo? ,,c\nt+ ,,glass ,,( ,,high ,,p[]1 suitable = c\nt+ all ,clo?s & ,col\r$ ,bord]s4 ,,fold+ ,,clo? ,,c\nt+ ,,glasses1 ,engli% & ,=eign ,measurem5ts1 ( ,gu>ante$ ,accuracy ,,pat5t ,,improv$ ,,ri*>ds' ,,/eam ,,eng9e ,,indicators ,,& ,,spr+s4 ,,pressure ,,& ,,vacuum ,,gauges1 ,,eng9e ,,c\nt]s1 ,,!rmomet]s1 ,,hygromet]s1 ,,pyromet]s1 c41 c4 ,illu/rat$ ,price ,li/ ,po/ ,free4 #dc ,,m>ket ,,/reet1 ,,man*e/]4 ,e/abli%$ upw>ds ( ,sev5ty ,ye>s4 ,,siz+ ,,+r$i5ts ,,& ,,fill+ ,,mat]ials ,us$ by ,siz]s1 ,manufactur]s1 ,f9i%]s1 c4 ,solid & ,liquid ,*loride ( ,z9c4 ,pure ,*loride ( ,calcium & ,magnesium4 ,anti-,septics4 ,*9a ,clay1 ,fr5* ,*alk1 & ,b>ytes4 ,epsom & ,glaub] ,salts4 ,h>d & ,s(t ,soaps4 ,p>aff91 ,sp]maceti & ,japan ,wax4 ,siz+ ,grease1 ,composition1 & ,tall[4 ,cocoa ,nut1 ,palm1 ,ca/or1 & ,olive ,oils4 ,soluble ,oil1 ,ole9e1 ,glyc]9e1 & ,glucose4 ,soluble ,blue1 ,col\rs1 & ,iri% ,moss4 ,sago1 ,rice1 ,tapioca1 & ,:eat ,siz+ ,fl\r4 ,scot* & ,=eign ,f>9a4 ,dextr9e & ,gum4 ,maize1 ,:eat1 ,potato1 & ,rice ,/>*4 ,gum ,tragacan?1 ,gelat9e1 & ,bone ,size4 ,,sole ,,mak]s ,,( ,,lanca%ire ,,acme ,,size4 ,,sole ,,ag5ts ,,= ,,! ,,gloy ,,manufactur+ ,,co4 ,,/ocks ,,kept ,,= ,,imm$iate ,,deliv]y4 ,%ipp+ ,ord]s ,c>efully ,pack$4 ,a long exp]i5ce among ,siz]s & ,f9i%]s (t5 enables u to mat]ially help our cli5ts to get at results !y specially want4 ,= ,prices1 ,samples1 ,p>ticul>s1 c41 apply to ,,adley1 ,,tolki51 ,,co41 ,*emical ,manufactur]s1 ,drysalt]s1 & ,produce ,m]*ants1 ,,novas ,,*emical ,,works1 ,pat]son ,/reet1 ,,blackburn4 ,telegraphic ,address3--,,adtolco1 ,,blackburn4 ,telephone ,no4 #ahd4 ,man*e/] ,royal ,ex*ange3--,box #dj & ,pill> #ab1 e ,tuesday & ,friday4 ,london ,(fice3--#ad to #bj ,/4 ,,m>y ,,axe1 e4c4 ,london ,works3--,p5ton ,/reet1 ,,p5tonville1 n4 ,e/abli%$ #ahdc4 ,telegrams--8,,k]%aw1 ,,holl9wood40 ,,joseph ,,k]%aw ,,co4',s ,,non-,,conduct+ ,,composition ,,is pron\nc$ by practical ,civil1 ,gas1 ,m9+1 & o!r ,eng9e]s1 & a l>ge numb] ( ,firms :o h te/$ its value1 to be ! ,be/1 ,mo/ ,durable1 & ,*eape/ ,non-,conduct+ ,mat]ial 9 ! m>ket1 effect+ a consid]able sav+ 9 fuel by prev5t+ ! radiation ( heat4 ,saves co/ 9 a few weeks4 ,w n burn4 ,num]\s ,te/imonials1 & ov] ,n9e ,?\s& ,ref]5ces4 ,"s idea may be ga!r$ ( ! sav+ effect$ by our ,composition f ! fact t 9 scores ( cases ext5d+ ov] a p]iod ( tw5ty ye>s1 :]e conc]ns h be5 work$ by f\r boil]s1 aft] be+ coat$ ) our ,composition !y h be5 enabl$ to "w ! conc]n ) ?ree boil]s1 & all[ "o to be at re/4 ,w ,la/ ,tw5ty ,ye>s4 ,does n ,%r9k4 ,aw>d$ ,c]tificate ( ,m]it at ! ,indu/rial & ,art ,exhibition1 ,man*e/]1 #ahhj4 ,! only ,aw>d giv5 9 ?is ,dep>tm5t1 aft] a sev]e competition ) o!r competitors1 & ,hon\rable ,m5tion at ,man*e/] ,smoke ,abatem5t ,exhibition1 #ahhb4 ,see page #ahb ( ! ,(ficial ,report ( ! ,smoke ,abatem5t ,committee1 held at ,grosv5or ,h\se1 ,grosv5or ,squ>e1 ,london1 on ,friday1 ,july #ad1 #ahhb1 "u ! ,presid5cy ( ,8 ,grace ! ,duke ( ,we/m9/]1 ,k4,g4 ,,asbe/os ,,coat+1 ,,silicate ,,cotton ,,or ,,slag ,,wool ,,coat+4 ,,:eel ,,greases4 ,,locomotive ,,& ,,wat] ,,:eel ,,greases4 ,rope ,driv+ ,composition4 ,black & ,br[n ,b&+ ,compositions4 ,,r$1 ,,black1 ,,& ,,o!r ,,col\r$ ,,v>ni%es4 ,,det]g5t ,,composition1 ,= ,remov+ & ,prev5t+ ,scale 9 ,/eam ,boil]s4 ,lead ,ore4 ,eng9e & ,bolton ,poli%es4 ,:ite ,curd ,soap4 ,:ite ,s(t ,soap1 = ,cop ,bottoms4 ,s(t ,soap4 ,belt+ ,syrup4 ,:ite ,lead4 ,oxide & ,o!r ,col\r$ ,pa9ts4 ,9 ,extra ,/rong ,casks = ,exportation4 ,,grease1 ,,v>ni%1 ,,composition1 ,,& ,,soap ,,works1 ,,holl9wood1 ne> ,,oldham4 ,,h[>d ,,bull\gh1 ,limit$1 ,,accr+ton 7,engl&71 ,,mak]s ,,( ,cotton ,sp9n+ & ,manufactur+ ,,ma*9]y ,( ! mo/ mod]n & approv$ pr9ciple1 ) all ,brackets & ,seat+s mill$ by ,special ,ma*9]y to ,/&>d ,templets4 ,,specialities3 ,,anglo-,,am]ican ,,op5]s ,,& ,,scut*]s4 ,new ,pat5t ,,revolt+ ,,flat ,,c>d+ ,,eng9e1 ,) rigid b5d--#aaj ,flats--#dc work+4 ,ov] #fjjj ,c>ds at "w4 ,,draw+ ,,frames1 ) ,electric ,/op ,motion4 ,reliable--quick--n liable to get out ( ord]4 ,already appli$ to ov] #ce1jjj deliv]ies4 ,,slubb+1 ,,int]m$iate1 ,,rov+ ,,frames1 ,) ,pat5t ,diff]5tial ,motion1 ,pat5t ,cone ,lift+ ,motion1 ,pat5t ,cap ,b>s1 & ,pat5t ,me?od ( ,balanc+ ,top ,rail1 c41 c4 ,we h appli$ ,electric ,/op ,motion to ov] #bjj1jjj ,int]m$iate ,sp9dles ) m>k$ success = ! prev5tion ( 8,s+le40 ,,r+ ,,sp9n+ ,,frame4 ,,! ,,l>ge/ ,,mak]s ,,9 ,,! ,,_w4 ,ov] #d1ejj1jjj ,sp9dles suppli$4 ,,r+ ,,weft ,,frames4 ,ref]5ces giv5 on application1 compris+ lead+ & ext5sive mills :]e ! ,weft ,r+ has entirely displac$ ! ,mule4 ,,r+ ,,d\bl+ ,,frames1 ,made on ei!r ! ,engli% or ,scot* ,sy/em1 ,= ,ord9>y ,d\bl+ or = ,sew+ ,cottons4 ,,comp\nd ,,siz+ ,,ma*9es4 ,"o #i ft4 ,cavity ,cyl9d] & #c to #g ,fans4 ,h[>d ,bull\gh's ,air-,dry+ & ,cyl9d] ,siz+ ,ma*9es ( all sizes f #c ft4 to #i ft41 9 ,t9 & ,copp]1 ) "s or all ( ! foll[+ improvem5ts1 are f\nd 9 all c\ntries :]ev] ,cotton ,manufactur+ is c>ri$ on4 ,hit*on's ,pat5t ,safety ,comp\nd ,friction ,motion = co>se or f9e c\nts4 ,hit*on's ,pat5t 8,self-,trav]s+0 ,y>n ,beam ,press]4 ,hit*on's ,pat5t ,self-,exp&+ & ,contract+ ,d\ble ,roll] ,y>n ,beam ,press]4 ,hit*on's ,pat5t ,adju/able ,measur+ ,indicator1 w m>k any l5g? ( y>n f #a_/d to #bjj y>ds or metres 7,,requires ,,no ,,*ange ,,:eels74 ,hit*on's ,pat5t ,self-,regulat+ ,high ,pressure ,size ,boil]4 ,hit*on's ,pat5t ,y>n ,reliev+ ,motion = size box4 ,new ,pat5t ,light ,runn+ ,beam+ ,ma*9e 78,improv$ ,s+leton071 ) ,pat5t ,self-,/opp+ ,measur+ ,motion1 adju/able = any numb] ( y>ds4 ,?is ma*9e has s rapidly sup]s$$ all o!rs--our own six pat5ts includ$--z to be practically ! only "o recognis$ 9 ! m>ket4 ,,h[>d ,,bull\gh1 ,limit$1 ,,accr+ton1 ,,lanca%ire4 ,accr+ton is di/ant f ,man*e/] only #bj miles4 ,frequ5t tra9s run daily f ,victoria or ,sal=d ,/ations on ! ,lanca%ire & ,york%ire ,railway4 ,illu/ration3 ,p>is1 #ahgh4 ,illu/ration3 ,london1 #ahhe4 ,att5d ,ex*ange1 ,man*e/]1 e ,tuesday & ,friday1 ,no4 #aj ,pill>1 ,"o to ,two o'clock4 ,,e/abli%$ #ahfc4 ,practical ,exp]i5ce 9 ,weav+ & ,loom ,mak+ = #cf ,ye>s4 ,,h5ry ,,livesey1 ,limit$1 ,,blackburn1 ,,mak]s ( ,,looms ,= ,weav+ ,pr9t]s1 ,%irt+s1 ,t ,clo?s1 ,dome/ics1 ,l95 & ,sail ,clo?s1 ,d\ble ,lift ,dobbies up to #dj ,%afts4 ,mak]s ( ! ,improv$ 8,sla%]0 ,siz+1 ,cop & ,r+ ,w9d+ & ,self-/opp+ ,beam+ ,ma*9es1 ,plait+ ,ma*9es1 ,loom+ & ,draw+-9 ,frames1 c4 ,drum ,w9d+ & ,spool+ ,ma*9es = ,col\r$ ,y>ns1 ,hydraulic ,clo? ,presses1 c41 c4 ,mak]s also ( ,bobb9s1 ,tubes1 ,%uttles1 ,pick]s1 c41 c4 ,loom ,sides ,plan$ & ,cross ,rails cut to exact l5g?4 ,illu/ration ,,crank & ,,tappet ,,%aft ,,bu%es1 also ,,be>+s ( ,,pick+ ,,%afts1 ) _! respective ,,seat+s on ,loom ,sides1 are ,plan$2 ^! improvem5ts secure m solidity 9 build ( ,loom1 & !reby effect a great sav+ 9 we> & te>1 require less p[]1 & give m uni=m work+ ) great] spe$4 ,illu/ration ,illu/rat$ ,catalogues on ,application4 ,plans & ,e/imates furni%$ = e description ( ,weav+ ,ma*9]y4 ,transcrib]'s notes3 ,9 ! text v]sion1 italics are repres5t$ by und]scores1 & bold & black lett] text by equals symbols4 ,sup]scripts are repres5t$ by & subscripts by 4 ,miss+ or incorrect punctuation has be5 repair$4 ,inconsi/5t spell+ & hyph5ation h be5 left4 ,?is book uses bo? high level & /&>d 4 9 decimal numb]s4 ,9 ! html v]sion1 dittos h be5 replac$ by ! repeat$ text s t text alignes = easi] read+4 ,! foll[+ mi/akes h be5 not$3 p4 #ab4 ,egypta9 *ang$ to ,egyptian4 p4 #ah4 ,symbol ,c repres5ts a ,c rotat$ by #ij;deg4 p4 #be4 ,symbol ,v repres5ts a l>ge ,v symbol4 p4 #ef4 ,labels1 #ca1 #acc & #aef - #afb are miss+4 p4 #he4 ,symbol ,t repres5ts a l>ge ,t4 p4 #hf4 simili> has be5 *ang$ to simil>4 p4 #ic4 tranf]r$ has be5 *ang$ to transf]r$4 p4 #aji4 ?us-- *ang$ to 3-- to mat* next p>agraph4 p4 #aec4 ,= ! calculation on actual size at ! bottom ( ?is page to make s5se1 #bfjj %\ld be #bfjjj4 ,?is has be5 left un*ang$ ,adv]ts4 p4 #ac4 ,telegraphic ,address3--,,adtolco1 ,,blackburn4 ,telephone ,no4 #ahd4 has no clos+ quote1 ?is has be5 left4