,,cotton ,,manufacturing4 ,illustration3 ,,single-,,action ,,jacquard ,,loom4 ,frontispiece4 ,,cotton ,,manufacturing4 ,,by ,c4 ,p4 ,,brooks1 ,examiner to the ,city and ,guilds of ,london ,institute2 ,sen4 ,honours ,medallist1 ,cotton ,manufacturing1 #ahhg2 ,late ,lecturer on ,cotton ,spinning1 ,weaving1 and ,designing1 at the ,blackburn ,technical ,institutions4 ,,with ,,over ,,eighty ,,illustrations4 ,third ,edition4 ,,blackburn3 ,c4 ,p4 ,,brooks1 ,,the ,,mount4 ,,london3 ,e4 ,f4 ,n4 ,,spon1 #abe ,,strand1 ,,and ,,new ,,york3 #ab ,,cortlandt ,,street4 #ahib4 ,all rights reserved4 ,cloth1 crown #hvo1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,,second ,,edition4 ,,weaving ,,calculations4 ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,author4 ,a ,handbook on all ,calculations required in ,weaving and the ,preparatory ,processes1 including ,standard ,wage ,lists4 ,for further particulars see the end pages of this book4 ,,preface4 ,the lack of books relating to the weaving of cotton goods is the motive which has led to the production of this work4 ,although several admirable books are extant on special branches of textile industry1 few1 if any1 works claim to treat practically of the whole range of processes popularly known as ,cotton ,manufacturing as at present conducted1 and which1 at the same time1 are within reach of the artisan's pocket4 ,this class of work is all the more requisite in consequence of the admirable system of trade education introduced by the ,city and ,guilds of ,london ,institute1 whose syllabuses for the subjects of ,cotton ,manufacturing and ,weaving and ,pattern ,designing are included in this work4 ,it is hoped that the student in either of these subjects may find a handy book of reference in this volume1 which goes into explanatory details to as great an extent as space allows4 ,however1 as the author has found1 and doubtless many others actively engaged in the industry have discovered1 it is becoming a requisite in the mill that those employed there be possessed of something more than 8rule of thumb0 systems of working--that careful and intelligent research and investigation is necessary to success in every department4 ,the writer trusts that this volume1 based on practical experience and on the application of theoretical principles in the industry1 may prove of assistance to such4 ,in addition to chapters on ,weaving1 in which reference is made to most of the plain and figured fabrics woven in cotton1 space is devoted to the preparatory processes1 especially to the important one of ,sizing2 a chapter on ,mill ,calculations is added1 as well as a ,glossary of ,technical ,terms--necessitated by the nomenclature of different districts4 ,acknowledgment is made of the assistance rendered by many correspondents1 whose suggestions have been1 and will be1 welcomed4 ,the thanks of the author1 and it may be added those of the reader1 are due to the many firms who have lent blocks to illustrate and simplify the letterpress4 ,amongst these may be mentioned ,messrs4 ,david ,sowden ,sons1 ,shipley2 ,butterworth ,dickinson1 ,burnley2 ,j4 ,h4 ,stott1 ,rochdale2 ,devoge ,co41 ,manchester2 ,willan ,mills2 ,ward ,bros42 and ,w4 ,dickinson ,sons1 ,blackburn2 whilst especial mention should be made of ,messrs4 ,howard ,bullough1 of ,accrington1 whose sizing machinery has been selected for description2 and of ,messrs4 ,hy4 ,livesey1 ,limited1 ,blackburn1 whose well-known weaving and preparatory machinery is engraved4 ,c4 ,p4 ,b4 ,the ,mount1 ,blackburn1 ,january1 #ahhh4 ,,preface ,,to ,,the ,,second ,,edition4 ,in this edition some necessary additions and alterations have been made1 especially in the statistical portion of the work2 and as the ,city and ,guilds of ,london ,institute have altered the ,syllabus of the textile subjects during the few months that have elapsed since the publication of the ,first ,edition1 the old ,syllabus has been replaced by the new one4 ,apart from these alterations the book retains its original form1 and the author hopes that this issue will obtain from those interested in cotton manufacturing the same kindly appreciation as the former edition4 ,c4 ,p4 ,b4 ,april1 #ahhi4 ,,contents4 ,,page ,,chapter ,i4--,,introductory4 ,history1 ,statistics1 ,cotton and ,cotton ,spinning1 ,cotton ,manufacturing #a ,,chapter ,,ii4--,,winding ,,and ,,warping4 ,warp ,yarn1 ,winding1 ,beaming1 ,sectional ,warping1 ,ball ,warping #ba ,,chapter ,,iii4--,,sizing4 ,materials1 ,mixing1 ,machinery #cb ,,chapter ,,iv4--,,weaving4 ,plain ,loom1 ,movements of ,loom1 ,modifications of ,loom1 ,splits #eb ,,chapter ,v4--,,cotton ,,cloth4 ,varieties1 ,dimensions1 ,standard ,makes #hj ,,chapter ,,vi4--,,fancy ,,weaving4 ,fancy ,weaving by ,tappets and ,dobby1 ,analysis of ,cloth1 ,tappets1 ,dobby1 ,gauze1 ,handkerchief ,motion #hi ,,chapter ,,vii4--,,jacquard4 ,jacquard ,cloth1 ,woven ,pile ,cloths #aah ,,chapter ,,viii4--,,drop ,,boxes4 ,drop-,box ,looms1 ,stripes1 ,checks1 ,spotting #acc ,,chapter ,,ix4--,,calculations4 ,mill ,calculations1 ,yarn ,counts1 ,reeds1 ,healds1 ,cost of ,cloth1 ,warping and ,sizing ,lengths1 ,wages1 ,speeds1 ,engines1 ,miscellaneous #adc ,,syllabus ,,of ,,technological ,,subjects #afa ,,glossary ,,of ,,technical ,,terms #afe ,,index #afi ,,cotton ,,manufacturing4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,introductory1 ,,history1 ,,statistics1 ,,cotton ,,and ,,cotton ,,spinning1 ,,manufacturing4 ,in the general acceptance of the term1 manufacturing is understood to refer to the whole range of processes which convert a raw material into the finished article1 but whatever that word may usually signify1 in the ,cotton ,trade it is technical for that department only1 which comprises the conversion of cotton yarn into woven fabric1 and as such is understood in the ensuing pages4 ,this department is frequently worked apart from spinning1 and the gradual and marked severance of the cotton industry into the two great departments of spinning and manufacturing is a striking feature of this great trade1 although the reason of cotton spinning finding so fertile a soil in ,south ,lancashire is no more apparent than the cause of ,north ,lancashire being so favourable to the prosperity of cotton weaving4 ,probably accidental causes in the early days of the trade had much to do with its future division--the fixing upon a ,south ,lancashire town for the establishment of the first spinning machinist's works1 the fact that the factory system was firmly established in the spinning department before the working of looms in one building was possible1 or at any rate advisable1 and the existence of large warehouses in ,north ,lancashire for distributing to the hand-loom weavers their materials for use1 were probably some of these causes4 ,the fact of the trade being carried on in two divisions1 each in different districts1 has its disadvantages1 the greatest being that of additional carriage--an extra cost of no inconsiderable amount4 ,to remove this and other disadvantages1 many attempts have been made to introduce the lacking department both in the ,north and ,south of ,lancashire1 but such attempts have generally failed to a greater or less extent1 mainly in consequence of the incompetence of the hands1 or rather the insufficient number of competent ones4 ,where the majority may excel in weaving1 the number of good spinners is generally very small1 and vice vers4 ,another objection is the disadvantage at which the one party is placed should the production of one part of the industry exceed that of the other1 the margin which might serve to provide remunerative occupation for both being at present often unequally distributed1 the over-producer taking the lower position4 ,on the contrary1 there is no doubt that the skill of the operative is more greatly developed where one district takes up a specific branch of the sub-divided labour1 and conducts it in a more fully equipped style1 than would be the case were it to be attempted on a small scale4 ,the known pre-eminence of ,manchester as the market town is attributed in part to the necessity for some common centre where a meeting of the representatives of each of these industries could take place to transact the business of the trade4 ,the ,exchange of ,cottonopolis is that centre4 ,here1 every day of the week1 but more especially on the ,tuesday and ,friday market days from all parts where the cotton trade is conducted1 the spinner goes to meet the manufacturer1 the manufacturer to meet the merchant1 who in turn represents all countries to which our manufactures are exported2 and thus the ,exchange has become1 as it were1 the heart of the trade1 for on it depends the prosperity of the whole industry1 and a stoppage or diminution of the business there paralyses the trade4 ,the movement of the cotton trade1 like that of civilisation1 has ever been westward4 ,india is recognised as having been from time immemorial its home1 and although there cotton has probably been in use for ages as clothing1 there is no evidence to show that the substance was even known in ,europe till the tenth1 or that its manufacture was commenced in ,england till the end of the sixteenth1 century4 ,at that time the weavers used yarn made from 8cotton wool10 as it was called1 but which yarn was furnished by the ,levant and only used for weft1 linen forming the warp4 ,however1 the invention of simple hand-spinning apparatus rendered it possible for the ever-increasing demand for cotton yarn to be adequately supplied for a time by ,english spinsters1 and it is chronicled that1 in #agja1 #a1ijj1jjjlb4 of raw cotton were imported1 although it is improbable that the whole of it was required for conversion into cloth4 ,at the beginning of the eighteenth century such inventions as that of ,kay's fly shuttle so increased the output of the hand loom as to cause for some years a dearth of yarn4 ,this had a good effect in inducing the great era of invention in cotton-spinning machinery1 from #agfj to #aghj2 during which time ,hargreaves1 ,arkwright1 ,crompton1 and many lesser lights brought before the world the results of their labour4 ,these inventions1 the importance of which it is not necessary to refer to--their details and the story of their invention having been so frequently dilated upon--these created the cotton manufacture4 ,the cause which influenced the development of spinning machinery was antithetical to that which now caused an extension of the weaving1 which was an excess of the supply of yarn1 and for which the only consumers were the loomshops attached to scattered houses on the country side1 containing one or two ponderous hand-looms4 ,it is rather more than a century since the ,rev4 ,e4 ,cartwright1 a ,kentish minister1 first gave his attention to the invention of a power loom1 and although his first patent in #aghe was not satisfactory1 yet it is to this clergyman's efforts that the world is indebted for the first power loom4 ,in #aghg1 he patented such a machine1 fitted with spring motion1 batten or slay1 temples1 etc41 with the addition of a protector and weft stop motion in an imperfect form4 ,nine years afterwards ,robert ,millar1 of ,glasgow1 applied to it the means of picking by plates and shedding by tappets or wipers4 ,here all the principles of the modern loom were present1 although in very different form1 and it is only in details that the loom of a century later presents a different aspect4 ,in #ahcd the weft stop motion was patented by ,messrs4 ,ramsbottom and ,holt1 which was perfected seven years later and patented in its present form by ,messrs4 ,j4 ,bullough and ,kenworthy1 of ,blackburn4 ,to these gentlemen is due the invention of an improved dressing machine called a 8tape10 the forerunner of slashing2 also the take-up motion for cloth4 ,they1 too1 patented the loose reed loom and the roller temple2 but from records of the time and tales told by the older section of the community in ,blackburn to-day1 apparently1 it is to ,john ,osbaldeston that the honour is due of breaking the concussion of the loom and inventing an improved temple4 ,he also originated many of those inventive appliances so essential to adapt the power loom for weaving fancy goods1 but was not successful in securing any pecuniary advantage to himself1 thus illustrating the fact that not every benefactor of his species meets with the reward due to his merits4#a ,the creative spirit which carried cotton-spinning machinery to so high a degree of perfection1 was directed also to the improvement of the preparatory machinery of the weaving department4 #a ,alderman ,baynes' ,lectures1 #aheg1 at ,blackburn4 ,in the hand-loom days each weaver stiffened or dressed his own warp whilst it was in the loom1 applying the size with a flat brush4 ,a length of about two yards was sized in this manner1 and dried by means of hot irons being passed over the surface of the warp1 paper being first laid over the damp twist1 or by means of a fan2 grease afterwards being applied4 ,in the face of our modern systems this old-fashioned method hardly appears credible4 ,the paste used was a mixture of flour and water1 boiled over the fire1 and stored in a stone vessel not unlike a swine trough4 ,probably from this reason the term 8sow box10 indicating in our modern 8slashers0 the size vessel1 arose2 and etymologists may find some connection between it and the word sowlin'--a common expression in ,lancashire for a mixture of the nature referred to--of its intended use or application4 ,the necessity for this was removed by the invention of the dressing machine by ,william ,ratcliffe and ,thomas ,johnston1 his assistant1 of ,stockport1 in the year #ahjc1 by which warps were sized before putting them in the loom4 ,this dressing machine consisted of little more than a frame with rollers to carry the warp from two back beams1 one at each end1 to the centre where the weaver's beam was fixed1 whilst between were arranged brushes traversing to and fro by means of rods actuated from a crank in the so-called crank dressing machine1 to apply the 8sow0 or size4 ,in addition there was a wooden fan to dry the warp1 which passed through the healds and reed also4 ,dressing was in vogue until #ahcj without any competitive system1 but soon after this the tape frame1 producing five times more work than the dressing machine1 was invented1 and continued in use until in an improved form--delivering the yarn direct to the weaver's beam1 and with still further capacity for large turnout of work--it under the name of the 8slasher0 takes the lead among all sizing systems now current1 which important position is attributable to a great extent to the speed and to the good quality of the turn off4 ,to ,james ,bullough1 a native of ,westhoughton 7though from early life a resident of ,blackburn71 may be credited this last invention1 which brought in its train the beam-warping frame1 and found increased employment for the winding frame invented early in the century by the senior ,robert ,railton4 ,the factory system was deeply rooted in the spinning department before we hear of any attempt at gathering a large number of looms under one roof4 ,arkwright had a spinning mill as early as #agga1 but the first successful weaving shed was built in ,glasgow in #ahja by ,mr4 ,monteith1 and contained #bjj looms2 previously1 in #agij1 ,messrs4 ,grimshaw partially erected one at ,knot ,mills1 near ,manchester1 which was burnt to the ground by a mob of hand-loom weavers4 ,in #ahac1 we learn of #bdjj power looms being in use in the ,united ,kingdom4 ,since then the number of factories has rapidly increased1 and excepting for the effects of occasional deterrent influences1 such as war and famine1 the cotton manufacture has steadily prospered and extended4 #bej1jjj hand-loom weavers1 and #cj1jjj power-loom weavers were engaged in all weaving trades of all materials in #ahcc4 ,now1 in #ahhg1 #bej1jjj power-loom weavers are engaged in the cotton industry alone2 while in most districts a hand loom is a curiosity as a relic of the past4 ,the contrast is great1 more especially so when it is remembered that during the same period the trade has been established in many foreign countries where nothing but handicraft skill was available at the early part of the period1 but where now the number of mules and looms has grown1 and is growing1 so rapidly as to create out of former consumers important competitors in the export trade4 ,the recent history of cotton manufacturing has been marked by little which has caused extensive alterations in its methods4 ,the extensive and well-organised association of the operatives for the protection of their position in relation to the masters1 has become a power1 as shown by the great strike of #ahgh1 when the operatives were able to resist the masters for a period of nine weeks1 and by the increasing influence of the employs in all trade questions4 ,the more important ,parliamentary proceedings relating to the cotton trade during the time of its being conducted on the factory system are1 of course1 the ,factory ,acts4 ,the first important legislative enactment was the ,factory ,act of #ahcc4 ,by this no young person under #ah was allowed to work before #e4cj a4m4 or later than #h4cj p4m41 nor more than #ab hours per day1 although #c hours extra might be worked per week to make up for lost time4 ,children had to be #i years old1 and had not to work more than #dh hours per week till #aa years of age1 having #b hours' schooling per day to be provided by the employer4 ,in #ahdd1 females over #ah were granted the same privileges as young persons1 and children were allowed to work #f-a_/b hours per day if only #h years old4 ,work had to cease at #d4cj on ,saturday4 ,in #ahdf1 the hours of labour were reduced to #aa per day1 and #fc per week for children1 young persons1 and females4 ,only minor alterations were made till #ahgd1 when the ,ten ,hours' ,bill was passed1 limiting work to #aj hours per day1 and #f-a_/b on ,saturday4 ,in #ahgh1 all the previous ,acts were repealed and a new one made which is still in force1 and requires that for young persons and females the hours be limited to #aj per day1 and #ef-a_/b per week2 that no child be employed at all under #aj years of age1 or under the ,second ,educational ,standard2 and only half-time below #ac unless the ,fourth ,standard of ,elementary ,education shall have been passed1 failing which the limit is #ad years of age4 ,males and females under #ah are deemed young persons1 and all young persons and females possess certain advantages over the male workers1 which rights are protected by ,government inspectors4 ,the ,bill was a lengthy one1 and contains many restrictions as to holidays1 painting and cleaning1 reports of accidents1 fencing machinery1 and school attendance1 for the benefit of the employ4 ,the ,limited ,liability ,act of #ahfb gave great facilities for conducting business by companies of more than seven members1 whose liability in case of a collapse does not exceed the amount promised on formation--a scheme inaugurated for the benefit of the working classes1 but which has been misapplied in many instances4 ,the ,employers' ,liability ,act of #ahhj gives facilities for recompense to the workmen for accident or injury sustained by the negligence of the employer or his deputies1 such liability being incurred under certain conditions only1 and being restricted to the amount of three years' salary4 ,the ,merchandise ,marks ,act of #ahhg has caused a reaction in the tendency towards short lengths and false description1 by making it a penal offence to falsely mark goods either in respect to dimension1 quality1 counts1 or place of manufacture4 ,in addition to these1 the variation of tariff charges1 notably the reduction of ,indian tariffs1 the returns and reports to ,parliament of statistical information1 the ,inquiry ,commissions1 and some few small enactments1 all have their influence in a greater or lesser degree on the industry4 ,the cotton goods of a standard make at the commencement of this century comprised printer1 muslins1 corduroys1 fustians1 sheetings1 shirtings1 twills1 ginghams4 ,in #ahcj1 records give madapollams1 tanjibs1 domestics1 jacconets1 gauze leno1 figured muslin1 splits1 and velveteens4 ,later1 in #ahdf1 there are chronicled lawns1 books1 nainsooks1 figured counterpanes2 and1 in #ahfd1 brilliante1 chambrey1 blue mottle1 satin checks1 in addition to previously mentioned goods1 from which list the absence of dhooties1 ,turkey reds1 ,turkish towels1 and cloths of later origin will be noted4 ,a comparison of the position of the cotton trade to-day with what it was some thirty years ago shows a decided change in one respect--i4e41 in the firms conducting the business4 ,many of the old private firms have disappeared and their places been taken by companies1 while1 for many years back1 the tendency has appeared to be in favour of carrying on the trade by the co-operation of small capitalists4 ,some of these companies are not limited1 being formed by a few speculative operatives who invest the savings of a frugal lifetime in the mill concern1 to which they also devote their labour1 being satisfied at the year's end if they have drawn an ordinary wage1 week by week1 while the capital has been added to1 and increased4 ,manufacturing1 in consequence of the comparatively smaller amount of capital required1 is generally selected for the above system4 ,to these establishments many of the wealthy manufacturers of ,north ,lancashire can trace the beginning of their prosperity4 ,by far the greater number of these companies1 however1 especially in spinning1 are on the limited liability principle1 and their increasing number shows how valued1 as an investment1 such companies are2 so much so that it appears not unlikely1 what with the narrowing margins and increased competition1 that the trade will1 at no very distant period1 cease to be a means of making the wealthy cotton lord1 and1 as the trade falls into the hands of gigantic companies1 become merely a bank1 with a small rate of interest1 in which the wealth of the smaller ,lancashire capitalists will be locked up4 ,this carries our thoughts to another branch of the subject--the importance of the trade with regard to the capital invested in it1 a sum which cannot fall short of seventy-five million pounds even in ,great ,britain alone1 without taking the allied industries of machine-making1 dyeing1 calico printing1 lace and hosiery manufacturing into account4 ,by dipping into calculation1 taking the spindles at the figure of #ags4 #f;d4 each1 and the looms at #af1 the amount invested in plant will touch #de1jjj1jjj1 and adding to this a floating capital of #cj1jjj1jjj1 fully which will be necessary to the trade in importing the raw material1 converting it into fabric and distributing the same to the world1 a total sum is obtained which indicates what is at stake in this mighty industry4 ,,statistics4 ,a perusal of the subjoined list will indicate in figures the extent of the trade1 and from it will be observed the comparative importance of our trade with each country4 ,taking the value of the exports of piece goods only as the standard of comparison1 the list of countries will be found as follows3-- ,exports of ,cotton ,manufactures--,piece goods of all kinds4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------------- ,,quantities4 ,,value4 ---------------------------------------- -------- ,twelve ,months ended ,twelve ,months ended ,,country4 ,december4 ,december4 ---------------------------------------- ------ #ahhf4 #ahhg4 #ahhf4 #ahhg4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,germany ,yds4 #de1ceh1djj #dj1gfe1jjj #fgf1cba #fbf1ajd ,holland #cd1acb1bjj #dc1bjc1bjj #eai1dia #eij1aed ,belgium #fa1dii1fjj #fe1gab1gjj #hfg1fff #iba1bjg ,france #ce1dgd1ijj #cd1ehe1cjj #fha1jdg #eih1eca ,portugal1 ,azores1 and ,madeira #ed1cab1cjj #ff1gfa1djj #efc1jjf #fhc1dbi ,italy #he1jec1ijj #aai1ifa1ejj #ife1jaj #a1cfd1jge ,austrian ,territories #f1cia1bjj #e1idf1hjj #gf1bia #gb1bde ,greece #cf1jbj1ijj #ce1hfj1jjj #dbi1jff #ded1hfb ,turkey #bii1gjf1bjj #bii1hbd1djj #c1ceh1ihj #c1bga1gfh ,egypt #aci1chd1ejj #aef1aej1ijj #a1bhj1cce #a1cia1gcf ,west ,coast of ,africa 7,foreign7 #cg1dic1bjj #df1cid1cjj #dbg1ide #edg1ghd ,united ,states #de1bea1fjj #dd1jbh1ejj #a1adh1iee #a1jed1bba ,foreign ,west ,indies #ij1bcg1ijj #ie1bbc1gjj #ibb1cbb #igc1bbg ,mexico #cb1cab1bjj #ce1dab1bjj #cei1icb #chj1cgh ,central ,america #cg1ejc1hjj #ec1dij1hjj #cgi1bhj #ebb1jjf ,united ,states of ,colombia #db1ije1hjj #fa1fcg1ajj #dbe1gaf #egb1jhb ,venezuela #bc1gah1bjj #dd1fig1cjj #bci1bhg #ddf1ebh ,brazil #bda1jcd1ejj #bae1cgj1djj #b1fgi1bgc #b1eag1hii ,uruguay #ce1gcb1fjj #di1gfg1hjj #dad1dig #fae1fhe ,argentine ,republic #ajd1hab1ajj #aje1ehe1ajj #a1bbd1ehf #a1cid1fjd ,chili #ei1gja1hjj #gc1fid1hjj #efb1gbb #gfh1cff ,peru #cc1eic1jjj #bc1hid1hjj #ced1chi #bea1ahi ,china and ,hong-,kong #dee1hbc1jjj #eeb1gdb1gjj #d1egj1bjg #e1fbd1iec ,japan #cd1fbh1ejj #fe1djc1hjj #chc1ejj #fii1dfb ,dutch ,possessions in ,india #hf1eaa1ejj #aje1egb1gjj #ibh1hac #a1jhb1cdh ,philippine ,islands #dc1bad1gjj #ci1bdg1ijj #dha1eac #chg1jfb ,gibraltar #ab1jhb1cjj #ag1dbd1cjj #ach1gfg #aij1ihh ,malta #bd1jba1ejj #af1ihg1ajj #bej1ffh #age1jaj ,west ,coast of ,africa 7,british7 #bh1ejb1fjj #ch1ehd1cjj #cah1ifd #dad1bhc ,british ,north ,america #cb1ehd1gjj #cc1fib1ejj #fcd1aeh #fbj1cgh ,british ,w4,i4 ,islands and ,guiana #db1gbc1bjj #ea1eic1ajj #dhi1cfg #ehb1hjc ,british ,possessions in ,s4 ,africa #ba1dfe1hjj #cb1ddc1cjj #cda1fhi #ebc1hde ,british ,east ,indies ,bombay ,yds4 #gig1ggf1ijj #fdg1fgc1djj #f1hga1gcc #e1gcg1dge ,madras #adb1fhg1bjj #abf1hjd1cjj #a1djh1aic #a1bif1afa ,bengal #a1agh1cgd1cjja1jcg1dfd1hjjaj1bjg1ebc #i1dbb1eed ,straits ,settlements #ajc1ibi1fjj #add1egj1hjj #idi1ihc #a1cbe1efb ,ceylon #ad1hfh1bjj #af1iad1bjj #afj1bja #ahd1jbd ,australasia #if1gef1fjj #ia1cii1ijj #a1gjj1dcb #a1eea1jfi ,other ,countries #aeb1fbi1ajj #afe1bfb1ajj #a1ggi1hdd #a1ijg1beg ---------------------------------------- ------ ,total #d1hej1baj1ejjd1ijd1aji1bjjej1aga1fgbea1 gdc1cad ---------------------------------------- ------ ,total --,wholly of ,cotton-- ,unbleached or ,bleached#c1dig1hff1ajjc1dgc1dgg1djjcb1b cg1fhbcb1hab1hdf ,printed ,dyed1 or ,coloured #a1cea1igf1gjja1dcj1ecg1fjjag1ibb1dedah1 ibe1ihe ,total of ,mixed ,materials1 ,cotton predominating #cfg1gjj #id1bjj #aa1ecf #d1dhc ---------------------------------------- ------ ,total #d1hej1baj1ejjd1ijd1aji1bjjej1aga1fgbea1 gdc1cad ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,in #ahhf1 according to the estimate of ,messrs4 ,ellison1 of ,liverpool1 the number of spinning spindles in various parts of the world was as follows3-- ,great ,britain #db1gjj1jjj ,continent #bb1ijj1jjj ,united ,states #ac1cej1jjj ,east ,indies #b1ajj1jjj ---------- #ha1jej1jjj ,in a recent estimate published by ,messrs4 ,worral ,co41 of ,oldham1 the spindles and looms engaged on cotton in ,lancashire and its borders are given as #dj1idf1gji spindles1 and #ehb1ejd looms4 ,this does not include other parts of the kingdom1 nor a number of looms just now starting2 therefore we may without erring take the number of cotton looms in the kingdom at about #fae1jjj4 ,in ,india there are #ah1ecf power looms4 ,the number of persons employed is3 ,males #aif1cgh ,females #cjg1fia ------- #ejd1jfi of which #dfe1fed are in ,england and ,wales1 #cg1afg in ,scotland1 and #abdh in ,ireland4 ,,cotton ,,districts4 ,taking into consideration the various districts of ,lancashire1 ,blackburn is the most northern of those which take an important part in the industry1 and this town also takes the lead in ,lancashire1 if not in the whole world1 with regard to its importance as an exclusively cotton manufacturing town4 ,the class of goods made are of a plain character1 principally shirting1 mulls1 and jacconetts1 while a large number of looms are engaged on dhooties1 grey and coloured1 which goods were introduced from ,glasgow4 ,a large quantity of dobby dhooties are manufactured in this district--this class of cloth1 of comparatively recent origin1 having been first made in ,blackburn4 ,the local spinning industries are now very important1 most of the spindles being run by those who are also manufacturers4 ,darwen weaving trade is of a similar character1 and there is a fair trade in yarn by several sale-spinning mills4 ,the neighbouring towns of ,preston and ,chorley have a connection with goods of a distinctly finer and more 8fancy0 character1 such as leno1 velveteen1 damasks1 embroidery1 and brocades1 while the plain trade1 including the well-known home trade shirting1 is important4 ,here also the spinning trade is comparatively small1 the yarns spun being #dj_/hj's ,t and #dj_/ij's ,w4 ,burnley is remarkable for the recent increase of cotton manufacturing within its borough1 and has a most extensive trade in ,burnley printers and shirtings1 with a few heavy twills--ranking second to ,blackburn in quantity produced4 ,accrington1 ,harwood and district have a plain trade1 but in yarns the goods are of a much finer character than other plain districts4 ,a large business is done in the better classes of printers for the supply of the local print and dyeworks4 ,the spinning of medium fine yarns1 #dj_/bjj's1 from ,egyptian cotton1 seems to be centred in ,bolton1 as is also the manufacture of heavy fancy goods1 especially ,alhambra1 ,marseilles1 and other counterpanes and towels1 with some finer fancies--leno1 damasks1 and velvets2 although many mills are to be found engaged in ,blackburn goods4 ,haslingden1 ,bacup1 ,rawtenstall1 and many smaller districts in ,east ,lancashire are engaged on manufactures of coarse and heavily-sized goods1 shirtings1 ,t-cloths1 ,wigans1 and domestics4 ,manchester1 while being pre-eminently the ,english market of the manufactured cotton goods1 is also known as the locality where the finest yarns known to commerce are spun--i4e41 yarns from ,egypt1 and ,sea ,island cottons1 #hj_/bjj's in twists1 and #hj_/cej's in weft4 ,the finer numbers1 however1 are not used for the ordinary purposes of manufacturing1 their consumption being divided between the lace curtain manufactories of ,nottingham and the great sewing thread factories4 ,the weaving trade of ,manchester consists of checks1 ginghams1 ,harvard and ,oxford shirtings4 ,oldham is1 it is needless to state1 the spinning town4 ,here the coarsest yarns1 #d_/bd's1 made out of the waste from finer mills1 have their spinning centre1 and here the spinning of medium yarns from ,american cotton has made the name of the town familiar wherever ,english cotton yarn is known4 ,rochdale depends mainly on the coarse trade1 #ab_/bd warps 7water ,t7 made from ,indian cotton1 together with some mule spinning up to #cj_/dj's4 ,the weaving of the heaviest cotton goods from waste1 twills1 sheets1 ,t-cloths1 velveteens1 fustian and cords1 is here carried on4 ,mossley1 #cj_/ej's1 warp yarn2 ,shaw ,lees1 ,royton1 ,dukinfield1 ,ashton1 ,heywood and ,hyde1 may be placed in the same category as ,oldham1 minus the waste trade4 ,stalybridge spins #cj_/aej's4 ,stockport has good trade in spinning1 as high as #aej's gassed and doubled yarns with varied weaving1 including the well-known ,turkish towels4 ,nor must the other parts of the ,united ,kingdom be forgotten4 ,cotton weaving extends no further into ,yorkshire than ,todmorden1 and about #b1jjj1jjj spinning and doubling spindles are in use about ,halifax1 ,brighouse1 ,sowerby ,bridge and district1 these being employed on yarns for dress fabrics made of a mixture of cotton and worsted1 as well as for curtains and hosiery in the ,nottingham and ,leicester districts4 ,in ,scotland1 the cotton trade is confined to the counties of ,lanark1 ,renfrew and ,ayr4 ,the spinning trade is here going down rapidly1 there only being about one third the number of spinning spindles running this year 7#ahhh71 as compared with #aheg4 ,the doubling spindles are on the increase1 especially for the ,paisley thread trade4 ,the weaving department is also increasing1 there being in the three counties #bh1hec looms as compared with #bj1ifc in #ahef4 ,the superior classes of cloth are made for the home trade--fine reeds1 fine muslin1 plain and figured1 and the manufacture of ,turkey reds is also extensive4 ,in ,ireland there are three cotton-spinning firms1 three cotton-weaving firms1 and one both spinning and weaving1 with a total of #gj1ijj spindles1 and #beja power looms4 ,summarising the different classes of work into which the industry is divided1 we may allot to the coarse plain trade the ,rossendale ,valley and ,rochdale1 locating the medium plain trade in ,blackburn1 ,burnley and ,darwen1 with the finest plain goods in ,accrington and ,preston1 the light fancy trade in ,preston1 ,chorley1 and ,ashton1 and the heavy fancy in ,bolton and ,bury4 ,,cotton4 ,even in a manual treating of the weaving processes it is not foreign to refer succinctly to the cotton and the treatment it has undergone to fit it for use in a weaving shed4 ,the manufacturer who has had experience in a spinning mill often finds the knowledge acquired there to stand him in good stead in the selection and use of the yarn4 ,our chief supplies of cotton are drawn from the ,united ,states of ,north ,america2 next in importance1 although far removed in quantity from the first-named1 is ,east ,india1 then ,egypt1 and lastly ,brazil4 ,cotton is a fibrous vegetable substance1 being the fruit of the cotton plant1 a shrub of the ,malvace1 genus ,gossypium4 ,there are several varieties of this plant1 but the development of the raw material is the same in each4 ,the plant attains its full height about ,june 7this being about two months subsequent to sowing71 and the bolls or seed pods are found to be ripening about the middle of ,july4 ,these bolls1 about #a;in4 diameter1 are divided by membranous walls into three parts1 containing three or four seeds each1 covered with the thin transparent cylindrical fibres attached by one end to the seed4 ,as the fruit approaches maturity1 these fibres lose their cylindrical form1 becoming ribbon-shaped through the collapse of their walls1 and at the same time each fibre twists on its axis1 thus causing a sufficient pressure on the interior of the boll to burst it at the junction of the compartments in the outer casing4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,after being left on the trees for some days1 during which time the ripening influences are at work1 increasing the convolutions and maturing the fibre--or exposed perhaps in the case of unfavourable weather to the damaging influence of rain1 which stains the cotton1 or intense heat which renders it brittle1 or wind which fills the boll with sand or leaf--the cotton is picked4 ,it is then passed through a gin1 a machine which has for its object the separation of the fibre from the seed4 ,this latter1 which in medium-stapled cotton exists in the proportion of #blb4 seed to #alb4 fibre1 is used up at the oil-mills--while the cotton is packed in bales of #d;cwt4 and forwarded to the sea-coast for export4 ,the foregoing may be taken as a condensed description of the cultivation of cotton on an ,american plantation4 ,in ,brazil and ,egypt the season is about a fortnight later2 in ,india planting generally commences in ,july1 or immediately after the dry season4 ,the raw fibre then is a ribbon-shaped filament with corded edges twisted with #cjj to #hjj convolutions to the inch2 thus1 although to the naked eye appearing quite smooth1 under the microscope it has somewhat of a resemblance to the shape of a joiner's auger4 ,fig4 #a represents a typical cotton fibre about #djj times the actual size1 and ,fig4 #b represents its section4 ,fig4 #c represents an immature or imperfect fibre1 one which is more transparent1 brittle1 and weak than the ordinary fibre1 with no tendency to take dye4 ,the convolutions also are few and irregular4 ,fig4 #d represents its section4 ,the longest fibre is the ,sea ,island cotton grown off the coast of the ,states1 averaging #a-e_/h inches in length1 and chiefly spun into #aej's to #djj's yarn1 although for experimental purposes #baej's have been produced from it4 ,egypt gives three varieties--brown1 white1 and ,gallini4 ,the first-named is commonest and is used for #ej's to #aej's wefts and twists4 ,the ,american ,states yield a comparatively clean and even-running cotton1 the best variety being ,orleans1 of a mean length of #a-a_/af inches1 used for #cj_/dj's ,t and #cj_/fj's wefts4 ,texas1 though shorter1 is from its strength used for warp yarn1 while the numerous varieties classed as uplands or boweds are suitable for weft on account of their usual good colour and cleanliness4 ,the difference between the white #fj's and #gj's wefts and brown ditto is that the latter is from brown ,egyptian cotton4 ,brazilian is a very harsh fibre about average length1 and used for twists either alone or mixed with ,american4 ,the ,east ,indian varieties are extremely variable in length1 and also in relation to the quantity of weak fibres2 the properties common to almost the whole being brown colour1 and dirty and rough character of the cotton4 ,it is chiefly used in ,rossendale1 ,bury and ,oldham for coarse counts4 ,in the medium trade the fibre is subjected to no fewer than nine processes 7each different1 and sometimes duplicated or triplicated7 before it arrives at the form of even thread known as yarn4 ,in the fine trade two or three additional processes are added4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,i4--,,plan ,,of ,,shed4 ,to face pp4 #af and #ah4 ,the spinning department1 to describe it briefly1 consists of3-- #a4 ,mixing the cotton in stacks to secure thorough blending of various qualities1 and elimination of the unevenness present in different bales or parts of one bale4 ,then commence processes for cleansing1 viz43-- #b4 ,opening or passing the matted pieces of the bales through a series of armed beaters having the functions of both separating the material into small flakes and removing the heavier impurities contained in it1 such as sand and seeds4 #c4 ,scutching4--,in this process a wing beater1 revolving at a speed of #aa_/aejj revolutions per minute1 removes the remainder of the heavy dirt1 delivering the material in the form of a lap or roll of cotton4 ,this process is repeated4 #d4 ,carding4--,here1 by means of revolving cylinders covered with fine wire teeth1 and combing the cotton against other cylinders or plates similarly covered1 the light impurities--leaf1 dust1 short and weak fibres--are extracted1 and the lap attenuated into a thin sliver1 in which the fibres are laid in such a position as to be easily drawn parallel at the drawing process4 ,these four kinds of cleaning machinery remove impurities and other matter foreign to the nature of cotton1 to the extent of about #aj per cent41 taking middling ,american cotton4 #e4 ,combing4--,the long fibres are here separated from the short1 thus enabling a portion of the cotton to be used for spinning finer yarns than the bulk would spin4 ,it is only in the mills spinning yarns above1 say #hj's1 that this process is found2 in ordinary1 the custom is to go direct from carding to #f4 ,drawing4--,a simple process repeated for yarn up to #cj's1 used three times up to #fj's1 and four processes are used above this4 ,the machine has for its object the levelling of the slivers1 six of which are placed together and drawn six times the original length4 ,when this has been repeated once or twice1 the sliver becomes very even and silky in consequence of all the fibres having had the curl taken out and been laid parallel to each other4 #g4 ,slubbing2 #h4 ,intermediate2 and #i4 ,roving4--,these frames are all constructed on one principle1 and have for their object the gradual diminution of the thickness of the sliver1 which at these processes is attenuated so much as to require twisting to keep it from breaking at the succeeding process4 ,an additional jack roving frame is used at mills making over #ajj's yarn4 #aj4 ,spinning completes the object of all the former machines--i4e41 to produce a level clean thread1 free from unevenness in every respect4 ,four sorts of machines are used for completing the attenuation--the self-actor mule1 ring frame1 hand mule1 and throstle frame4 ,the two latter are fast disappearing in consequence of the great improvements over the hand mule recently made in the self-actor mule1 so as to spin fine counts up to #cjj's1 and in the increased output of the ring over the throstle frame4 ,the mule is automatic in all its movements for spinning the yarn and winding it on the spindle in the form of a cop--i4e41 a cylindrical coil of yarn1 cone-shaped at each end4 ,in this machine the spinning is intermittent--i4e41 for a few seconds the different portions of the machines are engaged in drawing out the roving to the required fineness until about #fd inches have been spun1 the slack being taken up by a moving carriage bearing the spindles1 then a few seconds are employed in drawing back the carriage and winding the yarn on the spindles4 ,the ring frame is a constant spinner1 and as fast as the yarn is spun it is wound on a bobbin1 while the necessary twist is put in by a traveller shaped revolving round a ring4 ,it will thus be seen that the ring frame is only suited for warp yarns1 mainly in consequence of having to use a bobbin1 which of course requires modifications in the shuttle and box of the loom1 and even then is disadvantageous4 ,the ring frame is suitable and preferable for warp yarn up to #dj's1 where the spinner also reels1 warps or weaves his own spinning4 ,the mule spins both weft and twist4 ,throstle twist 7or1 as it is called when reeled or warped by the spinner1 water twist7 is generally admitted to be the evenest and roundest thread1 ring twist being next best1 and mule yarn inferior to both4 ,mule yarn1 however1 possesses an elasticity which neither of these can boast of4 ,from a consideration of spinning we arrive at a definition of the manufacturing processes4 ,unlike the spinning which is carried on in a building five or six storeys high1 the manufacture of cotton goods takes place in a 8shed10 as much of the work as is possible being carried on on the ground floor4 ,the weft yarn1 or that which is laid transversely in the cloth1 leaves the mule in the condition in which it is required at the loom1 but the twist or warp yarn passes through several 8preparatory0 processes to fit it for the operation in the weaving3-- #a4 ,winding--to take the yarn from the cop and place it on the warper's bobbin4 #b4 ,warping or beaming to wind the yarn from #djj or #ejj bobbins to one large beam4 #c4 ,sizing--i4e41 covering the warp with an adhesive preparation to fit it for standing the strains in weaving4 #d4 ,attaching the healds and reeds to the warp1 called looming or drawing-in4 #e4 ,weaving4 ,each of these will be described more fully in succeeding chapters1 and as in different districts different methods are employed1 more especially in the sizing and beaming systems1 the one chosen for most minute description will be the one used most commonly1 although the other systems will be referred to4 ,the weaving mill--or1 as it is termed1 shed--requires description next4 ,the general details of such a building will be more easily understood by referring to the annexed plan4 ,the most important point to remember in the arrangement of the rooms for the different processes1 is to place each so as to require as little transit of material as possible4 ,the engine1 a condensing one of #aaj indicated ,h4,p41 horizontal1 is driven by the steam generated in a #cj;ft4 by #g;ft4 two-flued steel boiler working at #abjlb4 pressure4 ,in the flue is fixed a set of economisers heated by the hot air and gases generated in the furnace1 and through the pipes of which passes the feed water4 ,in the winding room are two #bjj spindle machines 7#ajj each side71 keeping #ab winders employed4 ,there are #c beaming frames1 #ejd ends each4 ,in the sizing department are found the usual becks and cisterns for mixing purposes1 and one slasher sizing machine4 ,it will be noted that the weaving shop has direct communication with the looming room where the beams are stored1 and with the warehouse whence the weavers obtain the yarn1 at the same time returning the manufactured material4 ,there is also an outlet into the mill yard without passing through any other department4 ,in case of a new shed having to be built1 many important questions present themselves for consideration4 ,in fixing upon the site1 the essentials for a suitable position are a foundation sufficiently damp and of such a nature as not to easily part with moisture1 even in hot weather1 so as to preserve that humid atmosphere so essential to good weaving1 more especially where heavy sizing is resorted to2 yet there must be no yielding1 for it is of vital importance that vibration be reduced to a minimum1 both in weaving1 winding and warping1 to avoid breakages of yarn4 ,as many readers will be aware1 it is partially in consequence of this disadvantage being removed in mills entirely on the ground floor1 and partially in consequence of the increased dampness thereby obtained1 that such mills can obtain good results out of inferior yarns4 ,a position in the neighbourhood of good workpeople is most important2 such an advantage more than compensates for the increased rents1 rates and other dues of a town as compared with a country district1 for with inferior employs1 inferior work1 and therefore less advantageous prices and fewer orders1 are a consequence1 while the cost of production is increased4 ,good coal and water supplies are of importance1 and are best obtainable in the vicinity of a canal1 and if the district under consideration be a hilly one1 it will be worth while considering how to be sheltered from that bte noir of a weaver1 the east wind4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,winding ,,and ,,warping1 ,,warp ,,yarn1 ,,winding ,,from ,,cop1 ,,bobbin ,,and ,,hank1 ,,beaming1 ,,sectional ,,warping1 ,,ball ,,warping4 ,as has been previously mentioned1 the weft yarn1 when it leaves the mule1 is in the requisite form for use at the loom1 whilst the twist or warp yarn passes through at least three processes to fit it for the operation of weaving4 ,the object of these processes is to coat the yarn with a layer of the adhesive substance necessary to protect it from the chafing in the loom1 and1 secondly1 to coil the threads of warp upon a flanged roller evenly1 so that they will unwind at the loom in a level sheet the width of the beam1 and containing the requisite number of ends to make a cloth of desired dimensions4 ,bearing this object in view1 it is not difficult to understand the three processes--winding1 warping1 and sizing4 ,,the ,,twist4 ,the warp yarn is generally received by the manufacturer from the spinners in skips of #bjj_/bejlb4 weight1 and in the form of a cop4 ,this has a cylindrical formation coned at each end1 the more pointed end from which the yarn is unwound being called the nose1 the opposite end the cop bottom4 ,the best ,oldham spinners make the cop about #g-a_/b inches long and #a-c_/h inches in diameter4 ,in judging twist yarn preference is given to the most even thread1 round and free from motes1 soft places1 and snarls4 ,the latter are caused by slack ends at the mule1 the torsion of the thread taking up the loose yarn in the form of a twisted loop4 ,a similar effect called a snick is caused by loose ends and inferior traverses at the winding frame1 but wherever caused1 the fault is most annoying to the weaver1 and deteriorative to the cloth if intended for printing1 as the loops rise after the cloth has received the impression of the pattern1 showing white specks of an objectionable character4 ,the twist cop should be of full dimensions1 firm and hard copped1 free from loose ends1 and having clear apertures at the bottom for the winder's skewer4 ,any fault in these respects causes an increased percentage of waste--most objectionable to a manufacturer4 ,the selection of a yarn for profitable use depends upon the foregoing qualities1 but care must be taken to select for heavy sizing an openly spun yarn2 for lightly sized printing cloths a strong1 well-twisted yarn2 for sateens and velveteens a level one2 and for other goods yarns suitable to them4 ,,winding ,,from ,,cops4 ,the object of the machine shown on ,fig4 #g is to wind the yarn from the cop to a bobbin of about #d-a_/b inches lift--that is1 having a barrel #a-a_/b inches diameter1 and a head or flange at each end with a space between of #d-a_/b inches4 ,the machine1 ,fig4 #g1 is duplex1 having similar parts on each side of the frame2 on each side will be observed two rows of spindles driven from a central tin drum by bands2 five inches from the top of the spindle is fixed a braid bearing a flannel washer on which the bobbins rest1 and are driven round by the friction2 the cops are fixed in a spindle rail1 the end from each passing round a knee board covered with flannel1 thence through a brush which serves a secondary object of cleansing the thread from loose dirt1 and tightening it so as to prevent snicks being formed4 ,in front of this brush is fixed a guide plate1 slitted to prevent the winder lifting the thread so as to pass lumps too large to go through the slits4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #g4--,,winding ,,machine4 ,to face pp4 #bb and #bc4 ,the brush and guide plate form a traverse1 moving in slides alternately up and down to fill the bobbin with yarn1 which is drawn from the cop through these 8cleaners0 by the friction between the bobbin and the revolving spindle4 ,to enable a greater length of yarn to be wound on the bobbin1 it is made of a barrel shape--i4e41 of greater diameter at the middle than at the ends4 ,although the first few layers appear parallel1 a greater increase of diameter is noticed at the centre of the lift afterwards1 simply caused by allowing a longer dwell of the traverse than at the ends of the bobbin4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,fig4 #h shows an ingenious arrangement for obtaining the reciprocating motion1 and at the same time the varying speed4 ,a mangle wheel ,a is driven by pinion ,b1 alternately engaging with the inside and outside of mangle wheel1 thus reversing its direction of motion4 ,on mangle wheel shaft a spur wheel ,c of eccentric motion gears with a similar one ,d on a stud1 driving by a pinion ,e the rack ,f connected with the traverse4 ,when the traverse is halfway of the bobbin1 the mangle wheel is set opposite to the pinion ,b2 and the small side of the eccentric ,c driving the large side of ,d4 ,it is quite plain1 then1 that by this setting of the eccentric wheels the traverse will be at its slower speed1 while as the mangle wheel revolves the larger side of ,c will drive ,d1 and thus drive the traverse quicker as it gets near to the flange of the bobbin1 and consequently nearer to its reversal4 ,an exactly similar movement is obtained in another make of winding frame by means of a heart cam actuating a treadle1 to one end of which is attached the traverse chain4 ,as the larger or smaller part of the heart actuates the treadle lever1 it is driven more quickly1 while its normal speed is attained when contact is equi-distant between the apices4 ,it will be observed that when the bobbin attains a larger diameter1 even if the speed remains the same1 the yarn is wound on more quickly in consequence of the bobbin's greater circumference1 but the speed is also increased because of the additional friction generated by the increased weight4 ,to obviate this uneven strain on the yarn1 the back row of spindles is often made to revolve more slowly than the front one1 and as the bobbin increases in size it is placed on the back row4 ,winding from either throstle or ring bobbins is performed on a similar machine1 modification having to be made in the spindle rail only1 so as to obtain a proper position for the bobbin to unwind itself1 the yarn coming off the bobbin at right angles to it and causing it to revolve on the modified spindle4 ,occasionally1 where a manufacturer possessing the cop winding frames uses ring bobbins1 the yarn is unwound from them in the ordinary way over the nose of the bobbin1 and a little additional drag is applied4 ,winding is performed by women1 who are remunerated at the rate of about #a_/d;d4 per lb4 for #cb's ,t1 and proportionately more for higher counts4 ,the most frequent fault in the shape of the bobbin is in its being soft near one of the flanges3 often dirt gathering in the guides causes this1 or the traverse is not set half-way of the bobbin when the mangle wheel crab is opposite to the pinion4 ,gigging is the name given to winding off any excessively large bottoms by means of a slowly revolving bobbin1 forming part of the winding frame4 ,the speed of the driving drum averages #afj revolutions per minute4 ,the traverses should have all gatherings of fluff1 motes1 etc41 brushed out twice a-day4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4--;,,beaming ,,frame4 ,to face pp4 #bd and #be4 ,,winding ,,from ,,the ,,hank4 ,coloured yarn used for dhootie and other striped cloth is received by the manufacturer in the hank1 in which form it is dyed4 ,when winding it on the ordinary bobbin for warp1 only slight modifications of the winding frame are required4 ,a swift is substituted for the spindle rail1 and used for holding the hanks while unwinding them1 while the kneeboard and brushes are absent4 ,if the coloured yarn be used for weft for heading purposes1 a pirn is substituted for the bobbin4 ,other systems of winding have been introduced with only partial success1 the principal one being a modification of drum-winding3 a tube on which the yarn is wound rests horizontally on a revolving drum1 the thread traverses the width of the drum1 and thus a bobbin is built up1 having level edges sufficiently firm without any protecting flanges4 ,the ordinary drum-winding is similar1 excepting that a flanged bobbin is used4 ,,beam-,,warping4 ,three methods of warping are in use1 but far ahead of the others in production stands the beaming system4 ,to enable a sufficient number of threads to be gathered in one sheet for sizing purposes1 say #bjjj1 it is necessary to wind them first on a warper's beam4 ,this is a round roller1 of wood1 five inches in diameter1 having an iron flange #bj inches diameter1 and also an iron pivot at each end4 ,this will hold #ejj ends1 each #ae1jjj to #bj1jjj yards in length1 so that for a cloth of #bjjj ends four beams are required at the sizing machine4 ,the beam-warping machine is for the purpose of warping the yarn from these #ejj bobbins to a beam4 ,the bobbins from the winding frame are placed in a creel1 generally a ,v creel1 and shaped in plan view as its name indicates1 each arm of the ,v being a frame containing tiers of pegs to hold #bej bobbins1 the apex being nearest to the frame4 ,the yarn passes through a reed1 under and over several horizontal rollers1 emerging in front through a guide comb1 and thence to the beam4 ,the beam is driven by friction1 resting on a large drum making about #ej revolutions per minute2 therefore1 whatever the size of the beam may be--i4e41 whether full or empty--the yarn1 being pulled at the front1 is travelling at a constant speed4 ,to avoid sudden strains of yarn the creel does not rest on the floor1 but is suspended from overhead beams by rods4 ,the older makes of beaming frames have a bed creel4 ,only one vertical creel is used1 the other half of the bobbins being fixed in a horizontal frame4 ,the ,v creel is preferable4 ,the whole frame occupies a space of about #af by #ah feet4 ,the guide comb is of interesting construction4 ,it is capable of expansion or contraction4 ,each tooth of the comb projects from an iron box1 and is kept in position by being passed through the coils of several spiral springs2 by means of a screw and nut at each end these springs can be compressed1 thus diminishing the distance between the comb-teeth equally at all parts of the comb4 ,when the expanding combs are used1 far leveller beams are made than are otherwise attainable4 ,in the event of a thread breaking1 the warper must have some arrangement for running the yarn back1 so as to find the broken end to piece it up4 ,this is obtained by six falling rods placed above seven fixed ones4 ,when the machine is running forward the sheet of yarn passes between the fixed and loose rods1 the latter resting on a slide4 ,when the machine is reversed1 the slide receives a slight impulse1 allowing one rod to drop1 say #c-a_/b feet1 the yarn being suspended at the top by the fixed rods2 whilst this rod is dropping it pushes the slide still further1 and another drops1 and so on1 until when the sixth rod has fallen1 twelve times #c-a_/b feet equalling #db feet of yarn are taken up4 ,this is ample for piecing purposes2 indeed1 the woman in attendance seldom finds it necessary to go so far4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,to face pp4 #bf and #bg4 ,prevention1 however1 is better than cure1 and several machines are on the market fitted with stop motions to arrest the action of the machine at the breakage of a single end1 and reducing the number of falling rods to two4 ,one favourite system is to have a small bent wire1 not unlike a hairpin1 but about #a-a_/d inch in length1 suspended from each thread and held in position by slots across the frame4 ,this system is shown in ,plate ,,ii41 ,figs4 #aj and #aa4 ,immediately under these pins are two nip rollers ,m 7,fig4 #aj71 revolving in contact1 one of them borne on a movable centre1 and attached to an upright lever ,n4 ,this is immediately above an upright slide ,i1 the bottom of which is connected to one end of a lever centred on the drum shaft of the frame4 ,at the other end of the lever is a foot board and also the connection of a long rod with heavy balance weight always tending to press the footboard up1 and consequently the slide down4 ,the machine is driven by a single open strap on the pulley1 which1 however1 does not actuate the machine until it is pressed against the friction plate4 ,to start the machine1 the footboard is pressed down1 the slide consequently lifted and held in position by a hook which catches on the framework4 ,by an inclined collar ,j1 on the centre of the lever ,h 7,fig4 #aa71 the friction pulley and plate are pressed into contact and the machine is in motion4 ,when an end breaks1 the hair-pin drops between the nip rollers1 pressing the loose one away from the other1 therefore by means of the upright lever already referred to knocking off the catch ,h 7,fig4 #aj74 ,as soon as this is done the slide drops1 and with it the lever ,o4 ,the inclined collar relieves the pressure on the friction plate and the machine stops4 ,the attendant pieces the broken end which is thus brought under his or her notice4 ,beam warping machines are of various sizes1 the most common being for #ejd bobbins1 the width being #i_/hths1 or #ed inches between the flanges of beam4 ,other widths1 of course1 are in use1 from #dd to #ajh inches4 ,the waste of yarn1 in the preparatory processes1 indeed in all departments of mill work1 is extremely important1 and should be kept at as low a percentage as possible4 ,at the winding frame the total waste should be #a to #a-a_/d per cent41 varying with the count and quality of yarn1 and the total waste of warp yarn throughout the mill should not exceed #a-a_/b per cent4 at the most4 ,for the purpose of measuring the length of yarn on the beam1 each warping frame is supplied with a roller half-a-yard in circumference1 round which the yarn passes2 on the end of this roller is a worm driving a worm wheel ,b1 of #ed teeth2 on the stud carrying ,b is a second worm ,c1 driving a worm wheel of #acb teeth4 ,the worm only takes one tooth at each revolution1 therefore a complete revolution of the first worm wheel represents a length of #bg yards having passed the measuring roller2 this is equal to one tooth only on the second wheel ,b2 therefore1 a complete revolution of the latter means #cefd yards--technically called a wrap--#a_/b 7#ed #acb7_/7a #a7 #cefd4 ,if a warp contains #d wraps and #g teeth1 it is #ad1dde yards long - #d #cefd 7#g #bg74 ,for other warping calculations see ,chapter ,,ix4 ,the faults in beams are principally1 bad1 or no piecings1 soft places caused by fine threads1 or ends unevenly distributed in the combs1 or by crooked flanges4 ,where dhooties and other striped cloths are made1 the warper has to be provided with a sheet showing how the coloured yarn is 8laid in0 at the side4 ,this will be described under the heading of ,dhooties4 ,where possible1 all the coloured yarn is placed on one beam of the set1 leaving the other beams all 8grey10 as the undyed yarn is termed4 ,in any case of warping two counts of yarn on one beam1 whether coloured or grey1 allowance must be made for the different diameters of the threads4 ,,sectional ,,warping4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,iii4--,,sectional ,,warping ,,frame4 ,to face pp4 #bh and #bi4 ,where a warp is composed of two or more different counts of yarn1 or where a ball warp is required without having recourse to the old circular warping mill1 it is usual to use a sectional warping frame--,plate ,,iii4 ,as its name indicates the beam is warped in several sections called 8cheeses10 of the usual diameter1 but only about five inches in width4 ,several of these sections are afterwards slid on a bar1 compressed at the ends and treated in the usual way4 ,if required to be made into a ball1 the ends are gathered into a loose rope and coiled in a balling machine4 ,this latter method is generally adopted in those spinning mills where the yarn is warped by the spinner and sold in the ball4 ,the sectional mill is a diminutive beaming frame of #djj bobbins running at a high speed4 ,the yarn is warped on a square block between two circular plates1 and when doffed is flangeless1 thus necessitating careful treatment4 ,there is an interesting piece of apparatus attached to these machines for making all the cheeses of a uniform diameter when a certain fixed length has been wound on1 and the increase of diameter is regulated automatically by the increment of length4 ,the advantage of this is obvious when using two counts1 say #cj's and #dj's1 the warp in each case being1 say1 #abjj yards long4 ,if the diameter of warp were not regulated in any way1 and the same strain placed on the yarn1 the #cj's warp would be of greater diameter than the #dj's1 or if of the same diameter the #dj's would be softer4 ,to obviate this a standard cheese is made2 and in making it1 the attendant releases the setting lever1 and allows the stud to move freely in the vertical slot4 ,with it is also released the scale lever1 and the other parts which control the presser4 ,a required length of warp is wound on the section block1 say the length of a cut1 which is indicated by the measuring roller1 and the movement thus made by the presser is shown by the movement of the stud in the vertical slot4 ,the hand-wheel is then turned until the stud has returned to its former position opposite the recess in the back of the slot4 ,the position of the nut is then noted on the front scale1 and tightened up by the handle shown4 ,the setting lever is now brought forward1 and the stud resumes its normal position in the recess1 and the setting operation completed4 ,in order that each succeeding section may be the exact size and length of its predecessor1 the only attention necessary by the warper is to see that the revolution indicator points to the same figures4 ,thus1 when all are run off together1 their sizes diminish at an equal rate4 ,this machine is taking the place of the warping mill in the cotton trade1 especially for coloured work4 ,,ball ,,warping ,,on ,,the ,,warping ,,mill4 ,before beam warping was invented1 ball warping was the system commonly employed in the preparation of yarn for sizing4 ,this is a somewhat clumsy method1 and so far as the cotton trade is concerned has been superseded by a modern system1 excepting in one or two cotton manufacturing districts situated on the borders of ,lancashire and ,yorkshire1 and for certain classes of goods in ,bolton4 ,a brief reference to it will not be out of place then1 although1 probably1 the subject may interest few readers rather than many4 ,the warping mill consists of a creel for bobbins1 and a large circular frame4 ,these are of different sizes1 a common circumference being about #ah yards4 ,this framework1 or reel1 is about #aj feet high1 and thus forms a somewhat extensive cylinder4 ,about #ejj bobbins 7which are wound from the cop in the ordinary manner7 are placed in the creel and the ends from each are gathered together midway between the reel and the creel1 at what is termed the heck box4 ,this slides vertically between two posts1 and has for its object the correct guidance of the yarn to the reel and also the keeping of the lease4 ,the latter term will be understood by all connected with weaving as being the separation of the threads alternately1 an arrangement which is used to enable the position of the ends being easily found in succeeding processes4 ,supposing there are #ejd ends in the creel1 these would pass through the heck box1 and forming a loose rope be attached to the top of the mill4 ,this revolves1 and as by suitable mechanism the heck descends1 the warp is coiled round the cylinder spirally1 making in all several hundred yards1 say #cej4 ,when the bottom of the mill is reached the direction of revolution is reversed1 and a second layer wound upon the first one1 and a third layer on the second1 thus a warp of 7#c #ejd7 #aeab ends is made #cej yards in length4 ,of course1 the dimensions of the warp may be varied either in length or number of ends4 ,the warp is now unwound from the mill and coiled in the form of a large ball4 ,in districts where ball-warping is still used1 the manufacturer is not usually his own sizer1 and the warp1 therefore1 is now removed to a sizer's establishment1 where1 after being weighted to the required extent1 it is coiled into ball form again and returned4 ,in the few places where ball-warping is still used the warping mill just described has been superseded by the sectional warping frame1 as the ends are kept straighter1 and a greater length run through in the same time4 ,the uneven lengths in the old ball-warping mill1 caused by the outside layers being longer than the inner ones1 are also obviated4 ,illustration3 ,decoration ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,sizing ,,materials1 ,,mixing1 ,,and ,,machinery4 ,in a weaving mill there is no more important process than sizing1 and on its satisfactory management depends the quality and quantity of work turned off1 and probably the success of the concern4 ,this is exemplified by the anxiety of a manufacturer to get hold of those recipes well known as obtaining good results4 ,the sale of a shirting1 domestic1 drill1 or heavily sized cloth1 absolutely depends on the satisfactory sizing1 whilst the cost of making it is regulated by the production of the looms4 ,this has been known in many instances to vary #bs4 per loom per week1 in the use of a good mixing and a bad one4 ,cotton warp will not weave well without the previous application of some strengthening substance4 ,in the loom the tension on the threads is great1 and whilst distended--and therefore in the most favourable condition for being chafed--the healds with alternate vertical motion1 and the reed with reciprocating horizontal motion1 rub the threads so severely as to fray them to pieces1 unless sized4 ,this point was recognised and counteracted1 even in the hand loom days1 as mentioned in ,chapter ,i4 ,in sizing1 the objects are to press into the thread a mixture of suitable ingredients1 so as to strengthen the yarn1 smoothen it1 and lay the fibres which project from the surface of the thread1 thus increasing the strength1 and at the same time reducing the amount of fluff at weaving2 also to give to the yarn and cloth the requisite appearance of toughness1 strength or body1 known technically as the 8feel40 ,it is in the sizing that the 8boardy10 8leathery10 8clothy0 feels or grip are produced4 ,another very important object of this process is the introduction into low classes of cloth of an additional weight of foreign substances4 ,we have not here to deal with the debated and debateable point of its honesty or otherwise1 but how the object may best be attained2 so long as heavily sized pieces will be bought1 so long will they be made1 and no blame can1 at all events1 be attached to the manufacturer4 ,he profits not by the weight1 unless unscrupulous1 for the price obtained for the piece of cloth is not based on the total weight1 but on the amount of cotton contained in it4 ,frequently the state of the market allows a greater profit out of pure sized goods4 ,the percentage of size put on cotton goods is calculated according to the increase of weight on the warp only4 ,thus if the warp in a piece of cloth be composed of #ajlbs4 of cotton covered with #dlbs4 of size1 the warp will have been sized to the extent of #dj per cent4 ,the amount of size on cotton warps varies from #c to #bjj per cent4 ,in those classes of goods which are intended for dyeing or bleaching1 and which are generally sold by the counts of yarn1 it is obviously not wise to add foreign matter to be washed out again1 but in those exported goods which have to be made of a fixed weight1 or certain feel1 heavy sizing is adopted4 ,in the chapter treating of cloths1 fuller information on this point is given4 ,up to #bj per cent4 are termed light sized goods1 from this to #ej per cent4 medium1 and above #ej per cent4 heavily sized4 ,,yarn ,,for ,,warps4 ,the selection of suitable yarn is obviously important4 ,warp yarn is generally stronger than weft1 and the hardness is obtained by extra twisting of the thread3 owing to this peculiarity1 warp yarn is generally called 8twist40 ,for heavy sizing purposes1 a soft spun twist is advisable1 and one made out of the harder and wiry stapled cottons4 ,brazilian is of this character1 and is often mixed with ,american for 8shirting0 warps4 ,the spongy and size-absorbent properties are obtained at the expense of the strength of the yarn1 and therefore a good sizing twist often winds badly4 ,the colour of the warp yarn is not important1 and therefore whiter cottons are often reserved for weft4 ,fine twists are spun out of longer and finer cottons forming a close spun thread1 which is used for better classes of cloth lightly sized4 ,strength and elasticity are great advantages in twist1 and these properties should be obtained and preserved for the last process of weaving4 ,,sizing ,,materials4 ,many points distinguish a good size-mixing from a bad one1 and the leading qualifications for a suitable one are adhesive properties--it is no use sizing warps if the substance falls off at the loom--good colour1 and uniform consistency4 ,mealy cloth is often produced by lumpy size4 ,yarn1 even with a heavy coat of size1 should remain tenacious1 pliable and smooth4 ,the number and variety of sizing substances render it impossible to adequately describe the properties and use of each4 ,mention is only made of those of greatest use and importance2 yet the list is sufficiently long4 ,they may be divided into four classes--those for forming the basis or body of the mixing or adhesive substances1 those for rendering the dried size pliable1 weight-giving substances1 and antiseptics4 ,in the adhesive substances1 flour is of first importance for medium and heavy sizing4 ,this is manufactured by grinding a portion of the wheat grain1 and the qualities used in sizing are of the better sort1 fully equal to those used for bread-making4 ,for giving body and adhesiveness to the size1 flour is valued1 but is found a rather expensive substance1 and rather inclined to mildew4 ,to remove this latter disadvantage1 and also to render flour more suitable for the purpose for which it is intended1 most manufacturers steep it in water for periods varying from three days to as many months4 ,practical men and sizing specialists generally agree1 however1 that from two to three weeks is the best length of time for fermentation4 ,on judging the quality of flour1 comparisons of colour and stiffness after boiling are made2 in the latter case equal quantities of each sample should be taken and treated similarly1 both as to amount of water taken and time allowed for boiling4 ,the best test1 however1 and one that applies to all sizing substances1 is whether it 8goes far0 or not in actual use4 ,farina is the ground starch of the potato1 and largely used in light sizing on account of its cheapness and convenience for mixing4 ,it requires the use of a softener with it1 generally tallow or wax1 to counteract a harshness which it gives to the twist when used alone4 ,two other vegetable substances--sago and rice flours--are used for very light sizing1 especially for fine reeds or coloured work4 ,softeners4--,unless some ingredient with a more or less greasy nature be mixed with the above substances in sufficient quantities1 the warp is so brittle and harsh as to break frequently in the loom4 ,the substance most frequently used is tallow 7refined animal fats74 ,this is somewhat expensive1 yet its softening properties in heavy sizing are often introduced into the mixing4 ,the quantity of tallow to each bag of flour or clay varies according to the quantity of other softeners used4 ,in using tallow care must be taken to obtain it hard and free from grit2 much wear of clacks and rams may be attributed to gritty matter in this and other ingredients1 especially in china clay4 ,wax is a softener used for light sizing with farina4 ,it is of two kinds3 ,japan wax1 a vegetable substance1 of rather yellow colour1 and paraffin wax1 clear and semi-transparent1 obtained from mineral oils4 ,a high melting point of wax is a great desideratum1 to ensure the mixture hardening thoroughly on the warp--#aaj is considered a fair temperature for wax to bear before melting4 ,for softness1 castor oil and glycerine are occasionally adopted1 as is also ,irish moss4 ,soap4--,a mixture of animal and mineral substances is not generally used1 although a good softener1 its frothy nature when boiling rendering it difficult to deal with4 ,soap and chloride of magnesium 7so called anti47 should not be used together1 as their action on each other tends to make the size lumpy4 ,one important property of soap1 or rather alkali contained in it1 is that it kills any acid developed in the mixing4 ,soda has a similar and stronger tendency4 ,chloride of magnesium1 muriate or chloride of zinc have softening properties1 but those substances will be more fully mentioned in the next group4 ,weight-giving ,material4--,next to flour no substance enters into heavy mixings in such quantity as china clay4 ,this is a white earthy matter found in ,devon and ,cornwall4 ,after having all stony substances washed out it is dried and packed in bags for shipment to ,runcorn and other small ports in the neighbourhood of cotton manufacturing districts4 ,in selecting good qualities1 colour and smoothness should be borne in mind4 ,to use this material to advantage a good knowledge of other materials is required1 so that such ingredients may be used with clay as to keep the size on the yarn at the loom4 ,when clay is boiling it is somewhat dangerous to lift up the lid of the boiling beck1 this substance having an unpleasant property of spurting up1 possibly on the face or hands of an attendant4 ,metal size is that containing the chlorides of the metals1 magnesium and zinc4 ,chloride of magnesium1 a mineral salt obtained in ,germany1 is valued as a weighting and softening compound4 ,it has the peculiar property of attracting moisture to itself1 always causing cloth or any substance containing it to feel damp4 ,this substance is melted out of its solid form into a liquid by the application of steam1 and is afterwards stored in a lead-lined tank4 ,muriate of zinc1 or chloride of zinc1 is a substance of importance for weighting1 and is also valuable in checking the growth of mildew4 ,mildew1 as may be seen under a microscope1 is a species of fungus--a vegetable growing under certain conditions favourable to its development4 ,if warp or cloth is sized or finished damp1 then stored in a dry room for a considerable time1 mildew may be expected1 unless antiseptics have been used4 ,an antiseptic is a substance tending to destroy vegetable life1 and of antiseptics muriate of zinc and carbolic acid are the most suitable for sizing purposes4 ,as chloride of magnesium does not prevent mildew1 indeed1 its use being rather favourable to the development of that evil1 the name anti1 or antiseptic1 usually given to it is misleading4 ,it is very important that a manufacturer should take every precaution to prevent mildew by the use of real antiseptics1 especially when using such sizing materials as flour1 tallow1 or any other which readily mildews4 ,it may be mentioned that the maker of the cloth is liable for any damage done in this respect1 if the cause can be found in defective sizing1 even though the growth may not be seen until the goods have arrived abroad4 ,the before-mentioned chlorides are greatly dependent on the weather1 and also on the situation of a shed1 for their good weaving properties4 ,in case of east winds1 extremely dry or cold atmospheric conditions1 or in a dry shed twist sized with magnesium1 zinc or china clay1 is rendered brittle first4 ,numerous other materials are used by a few manufacturers1 but they do not require an extended notice4 ,dividing them into the four classes previously mentioned1 we may refer to3--#ast1 maize1 starch1 tapioca1 dextrin1 and gum2 #bnd1 oils1 compositions1 spermaceti1 curd soap1 ,irish moss1 cocoanut oil2 #crd1 ,french chalk1 ,epsom salts2 whilst soda is used to prevent iron-mould1 and blue to take away a yellow tinge from the size mixing4 ,,size ,,mixing4 ,mixing is performed in becks--wooden tanks fitted with dashers1 constantly revolving and stirring the mixture4 ,to each beck pumps are attached so as to force the size to another beck to complete the mixing process2 or1 if the mixing is ready for use1 to pump it to the size box of the slasher frame4 ,a set of becks generally consists of four--two about #d by #h feet1 and two each #d feet square1 while for heavy sizing a copper or copper-lined boiling pan is used4 ,this latter is fixed at a higher level than the becks for convenience in transferring the boiled size to the becks4 ,considering that a mixing made from a fixed quantity of certain ingredients is not generally used for percentages ranging more than #ae per cent41 and that different mixings are required all the way up to #aej or #bjj per cent41 whilst at the same time not more than two or three manufacturers may use exactly similar mixings even for the same degree of weighting1 it will readily be seen that the mixings employed in the cotton trade are innumerable4 ,this difference has been caused by the jealous care taken by a sizer to preserve to himself the recipe of his own mixing1 and rightly so4 ,thus1 new mixings have had to be adopted by new firms1 the correct quantity of each ingredient having to be fixed by repeated experiments2 and as the true properties of each substance have not been1 and are not yet1 well understood among manufacturers according to scientific investigation1 the differences of opinion1 and consequent differences of recipes1 are very great4 ,nor is it to the ingredients that these opinions are confined1 but to the order of putting each into the beck1 the times of fermenting and boiling1 and many other details4 ,it is somewhat difficult to satisfactorily determine beforehand the amount of weight which can be obtained from a mixing4 ,an instrument1 really a hydrometer1 but often1 from the name of its inventor1 dubbed a 8,twaddle10 is sometimes used2 but unless a fixed temperature is always taken1 these instruments are not reliable1 as a mixing twaddles differently at different heats4 ,indeed1 from the varying results obtained1 a twaddle cannot be said to be of much practical use in sizing4 ,a better system1 perhaps1 is to take the proportion of solid or semi-solid matters in a mixing as against the weight of water1 and compare it with the ratio of another mixing which is known to give a certain percentage4 ,thus1 if one mixing of #clb4 of solid matter to a gallon 7#ajlb47 of water gives #be per cent41 then a mixing with #flb4 solids to the gallon may roughly be said to put in #ej per cent4 ,heavy liquids1 such as zinc and solution of magnesium chloride1 will have to be reckoned partially as liquids1 in consequence of the evaporation which will take place on drying at the cylinders2 and the softeners1 from their inability to retain liquids as well as the starches1 will not be calculated as having the same weighting power4 ,magnesium may be reckoned as having one-third of its weight in solids1 and zinc at one-half4 ,for ,light ,sizing4--,taking a pure size1 say #h to #aj per cent41 farina and wax or tallow is generally used as being the cheapest1 and at the same time most suitable mixing4 ,the ingredients are generally combined in the same beck that they are boiled in2 for #aj per cent4 the following may be used3 #bjjlb4 farina1 #bjlb4 wax1 #bjj gallons water4 ,by the addition of clay1 the same may be made serviceable up to #be per cent4 ,for ,medium ,sizing1 say #ej per cent4--,flour1 clay softener and chlorides are used--say flour #dhjlb41 clay #bbdlb41 tallow #fjlb41 chloride of magnesium 7so-called anti7 #e gallons1 zinc #b gallons1 soda #hlb41 water #aej gallons in all4 ,it is mixed as described for #ajj per cent4 ,for #ajj per cent4--#alb4 of size for #alb4 of warp4 ,similar ingredients are used1 but different proportions4 ,flour #efjlb41 clay #efjlb41 tallow #acjlb4 7or other softener71 chloride of magnesium #bj gallons1 chloride of zinc #aj gallons1 soda #ajlb41 and blue4 ,the flour is steeped alone for three weeks1 at the end of which time the zinc is added to it with soda and boiled1 then the other ingredients1 which had been previously heated in the boiling pan1 are lowered into the flour and the whole boiled together4 ,for #aej per cent4 put still more clay and magnesium to the same quantity of other substances1 adding some specially prepared softening grease1 or adhesive size mixture4 ,the mixing of size requires constant care and supervision2 for variations in the quality of materials1 in the weather1 or in time of storage or steepage necessitate changes in the proportions of ingredients to obtain correct and unvarying weights4 ,,sizing ,,machinery4 ,the slasher is the machine generally used for applying the size to the yarn2 the usual name for the process is taping1 a word derived from the old tape frame in use #cj years ago1 and handed down to its successor1 the slasher4 ,one sizing frame is required for #cjj looms1 the width of the frame being adapted to the size of beam required for the loom2 this is a few inches wider than the cloth4 ,a common size is a #i_/h2 this makes warps #ed inches wide between the flanges1 the drying cylinder face being #fj inches wide2 a #f_/d is #fj inches beam and #ff inches on face2 an #h_/d #gh inches and #hd inches respectively4 ,a sizing frame is of great length1 and in three portions--at the back the creel1 in the centre the drying1 and in front the headstock4 7,see ,plate ,,iv47 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,iv4--,,slasher ,,sizing ,,machine4 ,to face p4 #dj4 ,supposing a warp is required of #bdhj ends--three beams1 each #ejd1 will be taken together with two of #dhd each2 these are placed in the creel in two levels1 and the narrower ones are placed at the back4 ,if they were in front of the broader ones the sheet of warp would overhang the narrow beams4 ,the ends are gathered in one sheet1 the layers from the hinder beams passing over the top beams and under the bottom ones1 all leaving the creel after passing under the foremost beam and travelling into the sow box4 ,two contiguous boxes or troughs are used for holding the size--the one farther from the creel1 called the size box1 receiving the mixture directly from the beck1 a regulating valve being fixed on the inlet pipe to prevent the box becoming too full4 ,the sow box is the larger one1 and receives the size from an aperture in the bottom of the size box1 as well as from a separate pipe4 ,in the bottom of the sow box is fixed a boiling pipe of elliptical form1 perforated with small holes1 through which steam is forced into the size1 causing it to boil1 and thus always be in the fittest state for application to the yarn4 ,at about half the height of the box two pairs of rollers are fixed1 the back pair having the bottom one of wood1 and the top one of iron1 covered with flannel and cloth2 the front bottom roller1 or finisher1 is of copper1 having resting on it a heavy iron one1 likewise covered with several layers of flannel and two of cotton cloth4 ,on the firm and even surface of these rollers depends1 to a great extent1 the quality of the sizing4 ,between the wooden roller and the end of the box nearest the creel is a copper immersion roller1 its use being to lower or raise the warp in the size by means of a rack and pinion4 ,the warp ends coming up from the beams pass under the immersion roller1 thus being soaked under the surface of the boiling size1 thence between the first and second pairs of rollers--the object of these being to press out all superfluous size and imbed into the thread that which is required4 ,immersing the thread deeply is advantageous for heavy sizing1 although1 by simply dipping it1 the fluid only attaches itself to the outside of the thread4 ,better results could be obtained by pressing the yarn whilst under the surface4 ,an example of the hollow india-rubber ball illustrates this4 ,if a punctured or slit ball be immersed in water1 without pressure1 little or no fluid enters it2 but if1 whilst under1 it is squeezed1 the air is expelled1 and1 on expanding1 the surrounding water enters1 filling the cavity4 ,similar results can be obtained by expelling the air from the interstices of the yarn whilst under the size1 and patents have been taken out for suitable apparatus4 ,this point is worthy the attention of machinists4 ,unless well boiled1 size retains a granular nature1 causing faulty cloth2 to obviate this1 many machinists insert between the size beck and the sizing frame an extra boiling apparatus1 so arranged by the intervention of pipes to boil the size under pressure1 impinging steam against the particles of size as they enter the box1 thus breaking the globules4 ,after boiling thus1 the size enters the box in the ordinary way4 ,to lay the fibres on the yarn a few sizers have recourse to revolving brushes acting on the thread directly after passing the finisher roller4 ,these revolve about #gjj revolutions per minute1 considerably faster than the warp speed4 ,they are considered advisable for fine reeds and fancy goods4 ,adverting to the process of sizing the warp1 we come now to the drying2 this is done by means of two tin or copper cylinders about #g feet and #d feet diameter respectively1 the larger one being nearer the front of the frame 7see ,plate74 ,steam at a low pressure is admitted to these1 and both are enclosed in a wooden case4 ,the sheet of warp passes over the smaller cylinder without touching it1 and round the larger one2 leaving this at the bottom1 the twist is next led over the small cylinder and passes to the front of the frame under both4 ,thirteen or fourteen yards of warp are always drying4 ,although the moisture has been expelled1 the twist is now in a very hot state1 and on its passage into the headstock a couple of fans are used for cooling purposes4 ,systems of drying by currents of air have been introduced1 but seem to take no hold in the cotton industry4 ,it is important that the surface of the drying cylinders be kept smooth4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,the headstock of the slasher consists of framework1 holding the rods and reed necessary for separating the sized threads1 and the apparatus for winding the yarn on the weavers' beam4 ,this latter operation comprises the driving of the whole machine1 as all the actuating power is transmitted from the headstock by the pull exerted at the front of the machine4 ,by iron rods the sheet of warp is repeated horizontally into as many layers as there are back beams2 then1 by means of an expanding comb1 the rods are separated vertically2 thus each being sundered from its fellows1 no possibility of 8sticking0 remains4 ,the split rods are shown in ,plate ,,iv4 ,the most effective mode of winding the yarn on the beam is shown in section at ,fig4 #ab4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,power is received by the main shaft carrying the cone drum1 and transmitted by a strap cone drum2 this in turn drives by a pinion the wheel fixed on the friction roller 7the largest of the three rollers at the upper part of ,fig4 #ab71 which is thus positive driven4 ,it also drives the beam shaft1 but not positively2 the only connection between the cog wheel ,a1 ,fig4 #ac1 and the shaft on which ,a rides loose1 is by means of the friction plates ,l1 between ,a and ,b1 and ,a and ,c4 ,unless these are compressed so as to clip a felt washer1 the beam is not driven at all1 so that it is very easy for the sizer to regulate the tension at which his yarn shall be wound by moving the weight ,h on the lever ,g1 which presses the positive driven plates ,b and ,c against the friction driven plates ,l ,l1 bringing them into closer contact and thus speeding the beam1 consequently tightening the yarn4 ,the friction roller is a shade larger in diameter than the finishing roller in the sow box1 and is connected with it by a long side shaft1 each roller revolving at the same speed2 the yarn is consequently kept sufficiently tight during the whole process4 ,in the old style of frame1 without the above-mentioned friction1 cone drums were used for regulating the speed of the warp4 ,as the beam increased in diameter1 one revolution meant a greater length of twist wound on1 and the strap had to be moved along the cone drums to diminish the number of revolutions of the beam per minute1 and thus keep the speed of the sheet of warp constant4 ,numerous presses are used to get a hard beam with a greater number of cuts on it4 ,although1 when extremely hard1 the weaving is more difficult1 the advantage of fewer gaitings of beams in the shop1 doffings at the size frame1 and less waste is adequate compensation4 ,these presses generally consist of one or two rollers resting on a stand under the beam in the frame4 ,by weighted levers the stand and rollers are forced upwards against the beam1 and keep it hard whilst winding4 ,figs4 #ad and #ae represent plan and section of this presser4 ,the duties of the slasher1 or1 as he is more frequently called1 the taper1 are to keep the size of proper boil and density1 so as to obtain a constant weight of cut1 to keep the twist pieced1 and doff the beams when filled4 ,in some operations it is necessary to stop the frame for a few minutes1 and although the stopping handle is connected with the cylinder steam pipe to prevent further admission of steam to the cylinders1 these remain so hot as to brown the twist4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,,slow ,,motion4 ,a slow motion is usually fixed on new frames1 and as will be seen from ,fig4 #af1 it is a simple and effective method for preventing brown or hard places in the warp by running the machine very slowly instead of stopping it completely4 ,a thin pulley rides on a collar on the main shaft of the frame1 and by the gearing shown 7,fig4 #af7 drives the driven cone far slower than its usual speed4 ,obviously the fast and slow motions could not be both connected with the driven cone by fixed gearing1 and consequently1 to enable the slow motion to be put in gear only after the fast speed is out of action1 the shaft only drives a plate carrying a ratchet pawl4 ,the ratchet wheel is on the driven cone shaft1 and as the pawl only overtakes the wheel when the latter is almost stopped1 the desired end is obtained4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,,marking ,,motion4 ,to enable the weaver to finish the piece when a required length has been woven the warp is marked at the sizing frame at a certain length4 ,this is generally done for plain goods by means of a measuring roller #add inches in circumference1 round which the twist passes4 ,on the end of this is a tin roller wheel driving a change wheel or stud wheel4 ,by means of a worm on the same stud the motion is transferred to a bell wheel of #de teeth1 which drives a marking cam so arranged as to gradually lift and suddenly drop a hammer1 which smits the warp against a block soaked in some colouring matter4 ,to get the wheels for a certain length1 say the stud wheel1 multiply the length of mark desired in inches by tin roller wheel1 and divide by the bell wheel and the circumference of tin roller4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4--;,,dhootie ,,marker4 ,to get the tin roller wheel1 multiply the circumference of measuring roller by bell wheel and by stud wheel1 dividing by length of mark required4 ,to prove this the length of mark may be obtained from the wheels1 say stud wheel #aje and tin roller wheel #de4 7#add #de #aje7_/de #aeab inches1 or #db yards4 ,in marking dhooties1 in addition to the smit for the end of the piece1 additional smits have to be made where the heading for each scarf has to be inserted4 ,usually this is done by having an additional train of wheels and an extra marker1 called a dhootie-marker1 to strike #c1 #d1 or #f1 etc41 times for the cut-marker's once4 ,in ,fig4 #ag a special arrangement is shown4 ,the usual wheels are shown at h1 the worm i1 the bell wheel k1 the bell shaft cut-mark hammer m4 ,the other wheels and the marker n refer to the dhootie mark2 b is fixed to the stud and drives c with d1 a pinion on another stud2 the wheels e1 f and g complete the train1 and on the same shaft as g a cam o operates the dhootie-marker4 ,this is arranged to strike any number of times for once of the cut-marker1 regulated by the number of teeth in the change wheel f1 #aj teeth in which give one mark to a cut mark1 #cj give three marks to a cut1 #ajj ten marks to a cut1 and so on by somewhat similar systems for higher numbers4 ,,tape ,,dressing4 ,the tape dressing machine--the predecessor of the slasher--is still used in ,scotland1 being suited to the light fabrics principally made there4 ,the back beams are placed in a creel at one level and the ends pass through a reed at the back of the frame4 ,the sheet is then immersed in size1 and passes between a pair of slowly revolving circular brushes1 afterwards being dried by a fan1 and also on a small cylinder4 ,there is no friction1 and the yarn is wound on the beam after being split by the rods and reed4 ,,ball ,,sizing4 ,only one system of sizing in addition to those referred to requires description1 and that is ball sizing1 the process following ball warping1 described in the previous chapter4 ,the warps are uncoiled from the ball1 and run into a large vat of size1 at the bottom of which the warp remains some time1 passing over and under some eight or ten rollers until thoroughly soaked4 ,the superfluous size is expelled by passing the warp between rollers1 when it is removed to another machine for drying purposes4 ,this has #ab cylinders #b feet in diameter1 and of considerable width1 heated by steam4 ,between these cylinders the warp is flattened and dried1 after which it is again balled and placed in a cloth for a short time to become 8mellowed20 even yet it has one process to undergo--beaming4 ,here the warp is taken1 the ends sundered out and run over a frame to the weaver's beam4 ,the reader will readily see that the extra processes of balling after warping1 and beaming after sizing1 as well as two machines required for sizing1 are sufficient to explain the fact that ball systems are dying out1 and not only for this reason1 but also because of the uncertainty as to what extent goods can be weighted1 the percentages being very irregular4 ,the warps are often streaky also1 but the thread preserves a rounder and stronger formation than at the slasher frame4 ,,looming ,,and ,,drawing4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,the weaver's beam1 as made at the sizing frame1 contains from #ejj to #ajjj yards of warp1 according to the counts of yarn and number of ends4 ,it is not yet ready for the loom1 as the healds and reed have to be attached4 ,if new healds and reed are used each end must be drawn through an eye of one of the healds and through a dent in the reed4 ,in this case the operation is performed by a drawer-in1 who1 with hooks at one side of the gears1 draws the ends through1 which are presented to him by a reacher at the opposite side4 ,in case of healds having been used before with similar draft1 counts per inch1 etc41 a loomer or twister-in is required1 who1 with an adroit twirl1 pieces each end on the new beam to a corresponding one which has been left in the heald from an old beam4 ,these men are remunerated for plain work at so much per #ajjj ends1 the drawer having more for the same number of ends4 ,the order in which the ends are drawn through the healds is most important1 although for plain and simple fancy work one system is generally adopted2 for fancier cloths the difference of draft is great1 and regulates to a great extent the kind of figure produced on the cloth4 ,these healds and reed are required in the loom1 being of great importance with regard to the proper interlacing and guidance of the ends4 ,the healds1 sometimes called heddles or gears1 are of cotton or worsted1 and are used in making the shed for the passage of the shuttle4 ,the usual form is a loop1 tied through which is a second loop1 knotted so as to leave a quarter-inch eye4 ,fig4 #ah explains the structure4 ,the healds are knit in a special machine1 and when finished show the loops ten inches deep1 connected with a braid running along the top and bottom4 ,the eyes are closely or sparsely arranged1 according to the counts of reed for which the healds are intended4 ,staves are inserted in the top and bottom loops1 and a set of healds consists of three or more staves4 ,plain could be woven by two staves1 but four are almost always employed4 ,the ends of warp are drawn through the healds1 one through each eye4 ,the method of separating the warp to form a shed is apparent4 ,for example1 suppose a warp of #bjjj ends be drawn on four healds1 each having #ejj eyes1 and two of these healds be raised whilst the other couple is depressed1 a shed of two equal parts will be formed4 ,metallic healds are being introduced1 we believe1 satisfactorily4 ,the loops and eyes are of wire1 sliding on bars attached to the staves 7,fig4 #ai74 ,a set of healds may be used for different counts of reeds4 ,the reed1 comb or ravel 7,fig4 #bj7 is an arrangement of dents--pieces of flattened or polished wire four or five inches long fixed between strips of wood by pitched band4 ,the dents are closer or not as the reed is finer or coarser in counts4 ,generally1 two ends are drawn through each split or dent4 ,illustration3 ,decoration ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,weaving1 ,,plain ,,looms1 ,,shedding1 ,,picking1 ,,beating-,,up1 ,,other ,,motions1 ,,modifications ,,of ,,loom1 ,,split ,,motions4 ,the last process of manufacturing1 and the one in which all the preceding ones culminate1 is weaving4 ,this has for its object the combination of the warp and weft yarns1 interlacing one with the other in such manner as to produce a firm texture1 fitted for the varying uses to which cotton cloth is adapted--for warmth1 for ornament1 for trade purposes--for sale4 ,the power looms of the present day1 as employed in the cotton industry1 vary very little in construction in the most widely separated districts1 unless for very different classes of work1 then what modifications are required consist of extra mechanism added to our common type--the plain loom4 ,,the ,,plain ,,loom4 ,the machine required for the weaving of plain cloth1 or cloth in which each end of weft and twist is interwoven alternately and on the face of which no figure is shown1 is simple4 ,the warp yarn is contained on a beam1 the weft is placed in a shuttle1 and the loom consists of the necessary framework and mechanism for holding the warp in the required position1 passing the weft between alternate warp threads4 ,a general view of the loom is shown in ,fig4 #ba1 whilst a detailed representation is given in ,fig4 #bb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4--,,plain ,,loom4 7,front ,view47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bb4--,,plain ,,loom4 7,back ,view47 ,in the process of weaving it is necessary to hold the warp somewhat tightly1 each portion at the same tension1 and to obtain this condition the cloth is pulled forward by the taking-up roller as it is woven2 but the warp is held back by the friction of weighted chains or ropes on the collars of the beam4 ,the warp passes upwards from the beam1 over the back rest1 and thence to the back of the healds2 between the back rest and healds are the lease rods--a large one with a smaller rod nearer the healds4 ,by means of these rods the warp is separated into equal portions1 two ends passing alternately over or under the thick rod2 those passing over the thick one also run under the thin rod4 ,the rule commonly observed for four healds is to have the ends passing the first and the third heald over the thin rod1 and those drawn through the second and fourth over the thick rod1 and consequently under the thin one4 ,the first heald is the one nearest the front of the loom2 the draft is #a1 #c1 #b1 #d1 and applies to plain cloth1 although the first and second healds are worked as one1 and the third and fourth together4 ,respecting the two ends which pass together at the lease rods1 the one through the front heald is to the left of the one through the third heald2 whilst with the other couples1 the end through the more forward heald is to the left of the other4 ,the weaver1 bearing these rules in mind1 can thus find the place of any broken end4 ,the healds are suspended on each side of the heald roller ,a by means of straps and cords1 which are shown4 ,the portion of the heald roller supporting the back healds is larger than for the front ones2 this is to make the former when lifted make the shed at the same angle as the front healds4 ,below are seen the crank shaft ,b1 and the tappet shaft ,c1 driven from it at exactly half the speed4 ,the latter shaft bears the picking plates ,h and shedding tappets ,k4 ,the slay1 supported by the slay-sword#b ,d on the rocking shaft is shown also4 ,it carries the reed at ,e1 held in position by the slay-cap ,f4 ,the back rest at ,g1 over which the warp passes1 and the weight levers and driving pulleys are also noticeable parts4 ,the cloth is woven pick by pick1 and the whole action of the loom may be comprised in repetitions of the operations contingent on putting in one pick4 ,supposing the warp to be in position and the whole machine in weaving order1 the first movement is to open the warp into two parts1 and is called shedding2 the second is to pass the shuttle through the opening thus made1 called picking2 and thirdly1 to beat up the weft close to the pick last put in--technically1 to the fell of the cloth4 ,in addition to these1 auxiliary movements are taking place for winding on the woven cloth1 keeping it distended1 and checking the motion of the loom in case of accident4 #b ,in addition to the references given in the text1 each article is shown on ,plate ,v4 ,,sundry ,,fittings ,,for ,,loom4--,,fig4 #ba4 ,the illustrations on the opposite page represent a number of the various cast-iron parts which form a loom4 #a ,back ,bearer #b ,swing ,rail #c ,brake #d ,brake1 with ,loose ,clip #e ,stop for ,bobber ,wire #f ,gib for ,crank ,arm #g ,cotter for ,crank ,arm #h ,short ,strap for ,crank ,arm #i ,step for ,pin for ,slaysword #aj ,block for ,crank ,arm #aa ,brass ,steps for ,crank ,arm #ab ,long ,strap for ,crank ,arm #ac ,bracket for #b-rod ,vibrator #ad ,eccentric for ,vibrator #ae ,crank ,wheel #af ,swing ,rail ,brackets #ag ,counter ,twill ,wheel #ah ,large ,twill ,wheel #ai ,small ,twill ,wheel #bj #b by #a ,leaf ,tappet #ba #b by #b ,leaf ,tappet #bb ,large ,tappet #bc ,plain ,tappet for ,twills #bd ,twill ,bowl #be ,large ,heald ,boss #bf ,small ,heald ,boss #bg ,radius ,bracket #bh ,tappet ,wheel #bi ,slay ,sword for ,loose ,reed #cj ,slay ,sword for ,loose ,reed #cb ,slay ,sword for ,fast ,reed #cc ,pulley #cd ,strap ,fork ,bracket #ce ,strap ,fork ,bracket #cf ,brake ,stud and ,bracket #cg ,taking-up ,catch ,bracket #ch ,brake ,lever #ci ,frog ,plate #dj ,frog for ,opposite ,side #da ,strap ,fork ,bracket #db ,bush for ,old-make of ,looms #dc ,binder ,boss for ,twill ,shaft #dd ,dollhead ,bracket for ,twills #de #b by #b ,leaf ,dollhead #df ,small ,tappet #dg ,plain ,treadle ,bracket #dh ,plain ,treadle ,grate #di ,dollhead for #b by #a ,twills #ej ,plain ,dollhead #ea ,change ,wheel #eb ,rack ,wheel #ec ,strap ,fork ,bracket #ed ,frog 7spring handle side7 #ee ,picking ,bowl ,stud #ef ,loom ,side ,cap #eg ,yarn ,beam ,bracket #eh ,picking ,bowl #ei ,picking ,bowl ,collar #fj ,picking ,boss #fa ,top ,plate for ,picking ,stick #fb ,under ,plate for ,picking ,stick #fc ,square ,hole ,cap #fd ,picking ,plate #fe ,picking ,neb #ff ,hat for ,picking ,shaft #fg ,foot-step for ,picking ,shaft #fh ,swan ,neck #fi #f;in4 ,ruffle #gj ,fly ,wheel #ga #d;in4 ,ruffle #gb ,spring ,bracket for ,picking ,shaft #ge ,incline #gf ,weft-fork ,holder #gg ,weft-fork #gh ,brake ,lever ,rest #gi ,bowspring ,bracket #hj ,bowspring #ha ,upright ,temple ,spring #hb ,under ,spring #hc ,small ,spring #hd ,knocking-off ,finger #he ,hinge ,spring #hf ,front ,plate for ,slay #hg ,bracket or ,rest for ,stop ,rod #hh ,finger for ,loose ,reed ,stop ,rod #hi ,stop ,rod1 ,rest1 and ,bracket #ij ,heater ,spring #ia ,heater #ib ,brake ,wheel #ic ,flange #id ,beam ,wheel #ie ,carrier ,wheel #if ,cloth-rod ,finger #ig ,taking-up ,lever ,catch #ih ,taking-up ,lever #ii ,three ,leaf ,treadle ,grate #ajj ,twill ,treadle ,bowl #aja ,twill ,treadle ,bracket #ajb ,long ,twill ,treadle ,bracket #ajc ,treadle ,bowl #ajd ,treadle ,bowl ,pin #aje ,four ,leaf ,treadle ,bracket #ajf ,four ,leaf ,treadle ,grate #ajg ,holding ,catch ,bracket #ajh ,holding ,catch #aji ,carrier ,wheel ,stud #aaj ,carrier ,wheel ,stud ,bracket #aaa ,treadle for ,small ,tappet #aab ,twill ,treadle #aac ,change ,wheel ,boss #aad ,taking-up ,catch ,lever ,bracket #aae ,back ,lever ,stud for ,reverse ,way #aaf ,binder #aag ,duckbill #aah ,slay ,stud #aai ,regulating ,finger #abj ,slay-stud ,bolt #aba ,hook for ,chain on ,cross-rail #abb ,boxwood ,strap ,guard #abc ,fly ,spindle #abd ,shuttle ,guide #abe ,slay ,plate #abf ,spring ,hook #abg ,swell #abh ,incline ,tumbler #abi ,organ ,handle ,bowl #acj ,organ ,handle #aca ,box ,end #acb ,box ,end ,spring #acd ,tricker #ace ,loose ,reed ,weft ,grate #acf ,loose ,reed ,weft ,grate ,neb #acg ,fast ,reed ,weft ,grate ,neb #ach ,fast ,reed ,weft ,grate #aci ,bow ,spring ,bracket #adj ,weight ,lever ,spring #ada ,under ,beam ,lever #adb ,under ,beam ,lever ,bracket #adc ,weft ,lever ,bracket #add ,hammer #ade ,temple ,spring #adf ,greyhound ,tail #adg ,hammer ,stud #adh ,hammer-stud ,bracket #adi ,tumbler ,bracket #aej ,tumbler ,neb #aea ,weight ,lever ,hook 7reverseway7 #aeb ,weight ,lever 7reverseway7 #aec ,usual ,weight ,lever #aed ,plain ,treadle for ,large ,tappet #aee ,vibrator ,lever #afc ,loose ,clip for ,brake #afd ,back ,bearer ,bracket #afe ,crank ,shaft ,bush #aff ,brake ,weight #afg ,fast ,reed ,brake #afh ,weft ,lever ,stud ,illustration3 ,,plate ,v4--,,parts ,,of ,,plain ,,loom4 ,to face p4 #ef4 ,,shedding4 ,shedding is very important1 and more so in figured cloth than in plain2 for it is by the shedding in its varied character that fancy cloth is principally produced4 ,for plain cloth1 a two-leaved or two-plated tappet is fixed on the tappet shaft1 acting on a bowl fixed to the end of a lever1 as shown in sketches of looms4 ,there is one lever or treadle to each plate1 and the heald worked by it is attached at the centre by wire1 and a small corded cross-piece of wood1 called a lamb4 ,from the sketch it will be seen that1 as the tappets revolve1 the healds are alternately lifted and depressed1 opening the shed in the warp4 ,the shed for one pick will have the front heald at the top1 and the back one at the bottom2 whilst for the next pick their positions are reversed4 ,the tappets are of rather peculiar form1 a common shape for plain being shown at ,fig4 #bh4 ,working on the centre ,s the eccentricity obtained is employed in depressing the healds1 but by an intermittent movement4 ,the shed must be opened quickly to economise time1 but must be left open sufficiently long to enable the shuttle being picked through4 ,a reference to the shape of the plate in ,fig4 #bh will show this4 ,from ,n to ,h is the portion for depressing the heald1 from ,g to ,h being an arc of a circle and the part by which the heald is held stationary1 while ,g ,m corresponds inversely with ,f ,n1 and allows the heald to rise4 ,it is necessary for the eccentricity to be equal at each shed1 a point which may be tested by noticing if the sway of the beam is the same at each shedding4 ,to get this1 the treadles must be level when the healds are1 and the centre of the bowl directly under the centre of the shaft4 ,the bowl should be in contact with the tappet during the whole revolution1 and thus give an easy tread--jerky motion in either treading or picking being very detrimental to good weaving4 ,a good shed should be almost as large as the shuttle at the point where it passes through1 quite clear from obstructions of any kind1 and the lower half of it not too low1 or1 as it is termed1 not 8bottoming0 too much1 for when too low the warp is frayed by the movement of the slay4 ,a point regarding which weaving technologists often enter into profuse arguments and diagrammatic illustration1 may here be summed up in a few words4 ,the line of warp when the healds are level should be below a line drawn from the temple to the back rest1 and the lower the healds are in this respect the better is the cover on the cloth1 although attention must be given to the remarks in a previous paragraph regarding bottoming4 ,whether the lowness of the warp line is produced by depressing the healds or raising the back rest is immaterial4 ,when plain cloth is woven in a twill loom1 the tappets act above the centre of the treadle1 and of course are of smaller size1 the healds being connected to the end of the lever opposite to the fulcrum4 ,the calculation of the size of the shed from given dimensions of the tappets and treadles forms a good example in leverage4 ,suppose the stroke of the tappet1 or the distance through which it moves the treadle bowl 7represented in ,fig4 #bh71 between the outer and inner circles is #c-a_/b inches4 ,the treadle is #cj inches long1 the treadle bowl being #be inches from the treadle pin1 and the healds connected #ae inches from the pin or fulcrum at ,n4 ,then the movement of the heald from its highest to its lowest level is equal to the distance moved through by the point ,n--i4e41 #ba inches--for if the bowl moves #c-a_/b inches1 the point ,n moves 7#c-a_/b #ae7_/be #ba inches4 ,this gives the size of the shed at the healds4 ,suppose the heald in question is #g inches from the fell of the cloth1 the shuttle passing through the shed #b inches nearer to the cloth1 then the size of the shed at the heald multiplied by #e and divided by #g gives its size at the point where the shuttle passes through1 or 7#ba #e7 #g #ae inches4 ,there is a slightly different shedding arrangement adopted in some looms1 frequently so in ,yorkshire1 but rarely in ,lancashire4 ,this is the ,bradford gear shown in ,fig4 #bc4 ,the tappets are placed outside of the loom1 and the treadles are connected to the healds through jacks at the top of the loom4 ,a leaf or projection on the tappet in this arrangement causes the heald to rise1 not depressing it1 as in the previously described arrangement4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4--;,,bradford ,,loom4 ,,picking4 ,among cotton looms the over-pick or ,blackburn pick is commonest4 ,attached to the tappet shaft are picking plates1 one at each side of the loom4 ,as the picking arrangement at one side is similar to that at the other1 a single description applies to both4 ,the picking plate ends in a point and acts on an upright picking shaft through a stud affixed to the latter4 ,the point is removable and is lengthened in broader looms about #a_/h inch for every #aj inches wider reed space4 ,at the top of the picking shaft is a picking stick1 an arm of some #cj inches long1 carrying a band connected with the shuttle box of the slay4 ,it is now necessary to describe the slay4 ,this is a beam of wood along which the shuttle is passed through the shed and by which the reed is held to beat up the weft4 ,its length is about #c feet more than the width of the cloth being woven1 the space at each end being taken up by the shuttle boxes4 ,these are cavities open at the top and at one end just sufficiently wide to hold one shuttle4 ,parallel to the bottom of the box or fly-plate is a spindle carrying a hard piece of horny substance called a picker4 ,to the top of this the band from the picking-stick is attached1 whilst at the bottom the shuttle rests against it4 ,the back of the box forms an angle of #hf with the fly-plate--thus1 as it were1 forming a dovetail into which the shuttle is bevelled to fit4 ,the space between the boxes is called the shuttle race2 it is not absolutely level1 the middle point being from #a_/h to #a_/d inch lower than the boxes1 the greater depression being for wide looms4 ,it will be easily seen how the revolution of the picking plate actuates quickly the picking shaft1 and consequently the end of the stick1 with an increased speed4 ,the blow is transmitted to the picker and the shuttle driven across the slay into a similar box at the other side4 ,when a new shed has been formed by the healds it is driven back again4 ,a smooth pick is most desirable1 and for this reason the stud on the picking shaft must be set so as to receive a smooth side blow from the plate1 neither a downward nor an upward one4 ,this is a point in the tackling of looms which receives the attention of every good overlooker4 ,the shuttle used in the ordinary classes of cotton goods is of box or some other heavy wood pointed and tipped at each end with iron4 ,the usual length is about #ac inches and depth #a-c_/h inch4 ,care must be taken that it is smooth at all parts where it comes in contact with the twist1 free from knots or other flaws1 which1 should they give1 would make havoc among the threads4 ,the weft is in cop form1 and fits on a peg inside the shuttle1 the loose end from the cop nose being drawn through the shuttle eye by a strong inhalation of air by the weaver4 ,to prevent excessive waste the manufacturer should obtain yarn well copped1 the cops hard1 free from nicked places caused by the minder having his ends down2 clear apertures at the bottom of the cop1 which should also be free from backlashing--that is1 ends hanging slackly below and over-lapping those previously wound on4 ,weft cops1 or pin cops1 should be five inches in length1 and as thick as the shuttle will admit of4 ,weft yarn is selected according to its evenness1 good cover or nap1 and cleanliness4 ,,beating ,,up4 ,the shot or pick of weft often being put through the shed1 is at a distance of five inches from the woven cloth1 and requires pushing up into close contact with it4 ,the motion of the slay performs this operation4 ,as explained on page #fj1 the slay is a beam of wood carrying a reed1 and having a reciprocating motion to and from the fell of the cloth1 imparted to it by the cranks on the shaft 7,figs4 #bb and #dc47 ,the beam is supported on two vertical rods1 called slay swords1 attached near the bottom of the loom to a vibrating or 8rocking0 shaft4 ,the slay is away from the cloth or front centre a sufficient time to give opportunity for the propulsion of the shuttle through the shed4 ,were the crank-shaft at the same level as the slay-sword pin1 the dwell at each end of the stroke would be exactly equal--a dwell of some duration1 however slight1 it is obvious1 there must be4 ,however1 the centre of the crank-shaft is at a lower level than that of the connection of the crank-arm with the slay-sword ears1 and thus the slay dwells longer at the healds than at the cloth4 ,as the slay makes some #bjj strokes per minute1 the variations of speed at the back and front centres are scarcely observable1 but by means of exact measurements a certain amount of dwell may be traced at the back centre4 ,by describing a circle to represent the movement of the crank1 and at a distance from it drawing to scale an arc of a circle to represent the movement of the slay1 we can prove the foregoing remarks4 ,in ,fig4 #bd the circle referred to is shown1 and also the line ,a ,e representing the stroke of the slay4 ,by observing the position of the ends of the connecting rod ,e#a1 when in contact with the circle at the back centre1 and also when the slay is at front centre1 we find that it has travelled over from ,e#a to ,a#a1 which is more than half of the circle4 ,then assuming that the crank-shaft runs at one even speed1 we would say that the slay takes longer time going forward than coming back4 ,again1 by measuring the movement of the slay from ,a to ,b at the front1 and from ,d to ,e at the back1 these parts are found of equal length1 but by extending from these points our crank-arm of equal length in every case1 we find that to move the slay from ,b to ,a and back occupies a space on the circle from ,b to ,b#a1 while to move the slay from ,d to ,e and back occupies a space from ,d#a to ,d#a obviously greater1 from which fact we assume that the slay occupies a longer time at the back than at the front1 an arrangement purposely contrived so as to get theoretically a longer dwell4 ,the difference between the arcs ,d#a ,d#a and ,b ,b#a is approximately #ae4 ,calculating at #ahj picks per minute1 we get the difference between the time of dwell at front and back to a seventy-secondth part of a second--to a practical mind not a very great consideration4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,the shuttle race is made of hard wood laid on the beam1 and in addition to the depression at the centre is also rather wider at the middle of the race--at that point bulging out slightly against the reed1 which is kept in contact with it by the slay cap at the top and the reed case at the bottom4 ,care must be taken to keep the ends of the reed from projecting in front of backboard1 or the shuttle will be thrown out4 ,,loose ,,and ,,fast ,,reeds4 ,to obtain a firm blow at the cloth the reed is made to strike it at right angles1 for if the angle were more obtuse or acute a loss of force would be entailed by a consequent downward or upward stroke imparted to the cloth1 the line of action not being in the same plane as the line of reaction4 ,with regard to the firmness of the beating up1 we have to consider the merits of fast and loose reed looms4 ,in weaving1 an accident which not infrequently occurs is the stoppage of the shuttle when it has only traversed a portion of the distance across the warp4 ,a case of this shuttle trapping causes the breakage of more or fewer ends1 and consequently arrangements are made for preventing much damage1 either by arresting the motion of the loom suddenly1 in case of a fast reed1 or by having a reed hanging loosely behind the shuttle so as to give way in case of a 8mash40 ,the latter arrangement is preferable1 as there is not the sudden concussion given to the loom1 which causes the vibration and straining of every part1 so objectionable in the fast reed loom2 the loose reed can1 however1 only be used for light and medium cloths1 as the reed is too lightly fixed to give a strong beat-up4 ,in the case of the loose reed1 the slay cap holds the upper part of the reed in a slot1 the bottom part being pressed against the shuttle race by a strip of wood 7completing the reed case7 attached to the stop rod4 ,when at the fell of the cloth1 the stop rod is held firmly by a spring1 and a fairly strong blow can be given to the cloth2 but at all other portions of the slay's movement nothing holds the reed but a weak spring acting on the casing1 and if the shuttle traps1 the reed flies out1 while a finger on the stop rod knocks the loom handle off1 stopping the machine without unnecessary concussion4 ,this latter advantage enables the loose reed loom to be run at a speed of some #cj or #dj revolutions more than the fast reed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4 ,fast ,reed ,loom4--,here the loom is stopped suddenly in case of the shuttle being stopped in the shed4 ,from ,fig4 #be the arrangement will be understood4 ,a swell attached to the shuttle box is placed so as to project into it when the box is empty1 and through an ,l-lever ,a drops a catch so as to strike the frog ,b and arrest the motion of the slay4 ,the frog moves a short distance and puts the loom brake in action before checking the motion of the slay4 ,this is done by means of the rod ,c4 ,the catch is attached to the slay sword and rests on the lever ,a4 ,when the shuttle is in the box1 and as the slay is on the top centre1 the protector rides above the frog about a quarter of an inch2 it is only when the shuttle has not landed in its place that the loom is stopped4 ,there is an arrangement for the swell to be released at the time picking takes place1 so as not to give unnecessary obstruction to the shuttle4 ,,take-,,up ,,motion4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,among cotton looms the positive take-up motion is generally used4 ,the cloth as woven is1 by this arrangement1 drawn on the cloth roller a certain distance at every pick1 the amount of take-up being regulated by wheels4 ,fig4 #bf shows a sketch of the arrangement4 ,the construction is similar for almost all looms1 but there are different gears and sizes of wheels used4 ,in ,dickinson's gear the rack wheel of #ej teeth receives its motion from a pawl1 worked by one of the slay swords4 ,on the same stud is the change wheel3 this gears with the stud wheel1 #ajj teeth1 firmly connected with the pinion of #ab teeth1 driving the beam wheel #ge4 ,the beam or sand roller is #ae inches in circumference1 and is covered with glued sand1 perforated tin1 or some pointed substance1 to hold the cloth firmly4 ,the fabric is wound on the cloth roller below this by means of contact with the sand roller4 ,the change wheel is varied to give changes of picks in the cloth1 a larger wheel giving fewer picks in the quarter inch4 ,each gear has a constant number associated with it1 called a dividend4 ,if the number of teeth in the change wheel be divided into this dividend1 it gives the picks in a quarter inch of cloth4 ,imagining that a change wheel1 having the effect of only one tooth in a revolution1 could be applied1 then the dividend is the number of picks that the loom would run before the sand roller advanced a quarter of an inch4 ,suppose #ebh dividend is taken1 this represents a change wheel supposed to have one tooth4 ,if a wheel of #ff teeth be put on1 only #a_/ff as many picks to the quarter will be inserted--i4e41 #ebh_/ff #h picks4 ,the method of obtaining the dividend for any ordinary gear is-- 7,rack wheel ,carrier wheel ,beam wheel7_/ 7,pinion wheel number of #a_/d inches in circumference of taking-up roller7 afterwards adding #a-a_/b per cent4 for shrinkage of the cloth after being released from the tension of the loom4 ,thus1 ,dickinson's gear is-- 7#ej #ge #ajj7_/7ab #fj7 #ebj4 ,add #a-a_/b per cent4 #g4h ----- ,dividend #ebg4h ,the principal gears in use in ,lancashire are3-- ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,stud ,circumf4 ,rack and ,beam ,take-up ,wheel4,carrier,pinion4,wheel4,roller4 ,divi- ,wheel4 dend4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,j4 ,harrison ,sons1 now ,j4 ,dugdale ,sons #ej #ajj #ab #ge #ae #ebh ,h4 ,livesey ,co4 ,willan ,mills ,j4 ,dugdale ,sons #ej #abj #ae #ge #ae #ejg ,j4 ,r4 ,shorrock ,butterworth ,dickinson #ej #ajj #ab #ge #ae #ebh ,w4 ,dickinson ,sons #ej #abj #ae #ge #ae #ejg ,geo4 ,keighley #ej #adj #ae #gh #ad-a_/b #fcg ,pickles #bd #hi #ae #ij #ae -- ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,pickles' gear also has a swing pinion #bd1 and #b change wheels2 to find the change wheel required1 multiply the change wheel on the rack stud by the picks per quarter inch1 and divide by #i-- ,equal to #d teeth per pick for a #cf change wheel4 #c #bg #b #ah ,by using this motion1 which is shown on ,fig4 #bc1 both heavy and light pick cloth can be woven without a great variation in the wheels4 ,to weave heavy pick cloth with1 say1 the first-named motion1 the rack wheel might be increased to #fj from #ej1 and the dividend would then be #fcd4 ,in some looms a letting-off motion works in conjunction with the take-up1 to release the yarn on the beam at a fixed rate4 ,,the ,,weft ,,stop ,,motion4 ,a reference to the invention of this very ingenious and useful apparatus is made in ,chapter ,i4 ,its object is to stop the loom on the breakage of the weft1 or when the cop is finished4 ,unsightly gaws or goals in the fabric are thus prevented1 and the weaver enabled to attend to more looms4 ,a lever is fixed to the breast beam 7,fig4 #bg71 hinged at one end1 and arranged so as to rest against the starting handle ,e4 ,the lever carries a bent fork ,c1 which projects into a grid ,d in the slay at the moment that the crank is at the fore centre4 ,the grid is let into the back board of the slay between the reed and the shuttle box at the starting side of the loom4 ,on the tappet shaft is fixed a projecting cam or sector1 raising one end of a bent lever ,c1 the lower part of which is called the greyhound tail1 and the upper part1 which ends above the breast-plate1 from its peculiar form is dubbed the hammer4 ,the fork before referred to is balanced1 and its back end hooked and resting on the hammer4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,when there is weft in the loom the fork is prevented by the thread from passing through the grid1 and its back part is thus lifted clear of the hammer4 ,should the weft be broken1 the loom is stopped thus3 ,the sector raises the greyhound tail at the moment that the slay is at the fore centre1 and there being no weft to raise the fork1 it is caught by the hammer1 and the lever to which the fork is attached pulled forward1 when1 as previously referred to1 the spring handle is released and the loom stops4 ,manifestly the motion must be set so as to act when the shuttle is at the fork side of the loom4 ,,the ,,brake4 ,a good brake contributes greatly to the manufacture of even cloth2 should the stopping arrangements be ineffective1 thin places and cracks will be inconveniently numerous4 ,usually the brake is a simple lever acting on a brake pulley at one end1 whilst at the other it is regulated by an inclined bracket connected with the starting handle4 ,when the handle is pushed forward1 the brake lever is lifted2 when the knocking-off takes place the end of the brake lever drops and the leathers come in contact with the pulley1 stopping the loom4 ,additional brake power may be made by altering the leathers or weighting the brake lever4 ,,temple ,,rollers4 ,the cloth as it is woven tends to contract in width in consequence of the tension at which it is wrought lengthway1 and to counteract this1 temple rollers are used4 ,for commoner heavy fabrics the roller and trough is used1 and consists of a fluted roller cut in the manner of a screw at either end1 one end with left-hand thread and the opposite end a right-hand4 ,thus a spiral row of points is left at each end of the roller1 and it is fixed in the loom1 so that as the roller revolves the points distend the cloth4 ,the roller is fixed in a trough for convenience in attaching to framework4 ,lighter fabrics are woven with side temples4 ,these are small rollers acting only for a distance of #c to #d inches at the selvages of the cloth4 ,two pairs are usually used at each side1 the contrary-thread spiral arrangement being preserved2 a bar of iron connects the two sides4 ,in the latter arrangement the weaver can see the cloth from the moment it is woven1 which is not possible with the roller and trough1 as some two inches are hidden under the roller3 the cloth is not held so firmly at the middle of its width4 ,,timing4 ,all the contrivances just described are required to work harmoniously in order to produce the desired results1 each coming into action at the proper time4 ,in plain cloth weaving1 when the crank is at the fore centre1 the reed touches the cloth at right angles1 and the healds are slightly open1 forming a new shed4 ,as the slay moves backwards just in front of the bottom centre1 the picking band is tight and just commencing to move the shuttle4 ,at this point the healds are full open and remain so until the crank has passed the back centre1 when1 as the shuttle has arrived in the opposite box1 the shed begins to close4 ,before the slay has reached the front again1 indeed when just past the top centre1 the healds are level2 an advantage is thus gained in having the rods crossed on the weft at the time it is beaten up1 holding it firmly4 ,the sector lifts the greyhound tail for the weft stop motion at the moment that the reed touches the cloth1 when the fork would be lifted if there were weft in the loom4 ,this only happens1 of course1 every alternate pick1 when the shuttle is at the fork side of the slay4 ,generally the monkey tail on the slay sword moves the take-up pawl as the slay moves back1 just dropping the holding catch as the crank reaches the back centre4 ,the reed is held tightly in a loose reed loom when the slay approaches the front4 ,of course1 the timing of the motion varies under different circumstances2 if cloth is being woven as wide as the loom will possibly admit of1 or if the shuttle boxes be short1 then picking necessarily must take place later1 as the shuttle starts so close to the cloth2 consequently1 shedding must be later or the shed will close before the shuttle is through4 ,of course in this case the pick must be stronger1 as the shuttle has more friction in its traverse4 ,other circumstances also affect the timing4 ,,the ,,position ,,and ,,fixing ,,of ,,the ,,looms4 ,in a weaving shed the looms are driven from shafting running parallel to the looms when looked at lengthway4 ,drums on the line shafts drive the loom pulleys by means of straps4 ,of these pulleys there are two1 generally about #i inches diameter for a #dj-;inch loom4 ,one pulley is loose on the shaft1 the other keyed to it--the former to carry the strap when the loom is stopped4 ,the looms are in groups of four1 with an occasional row of couples for two or three loom weavers4 ,the four arrangement is adopted for convenience to the weaver1 as the looms having the starting ends contiguous1 he has little walking for the purpose of setting on the machines4 ,thus1 two 8hands0 of loom are required1 those with the starting handle at the right-hand side being named right-hand looms1 and vice vers4 ,there is little difference in construction--the crank-shaft is longer in one than the other for the purpose of having two straps on one driving drum4 ,many parts1 such as crank-shafts1 slays1 shuttles1 forks1 brackets1 etc41 are required to be of two 8hands10 each for its own hand of loom4 ,in view of a case of having to remove looms or fix new ones1 a few remarks on the general arrangements for fixing them may not be unacceptable4 ,the line shaft runs over the space between the warp beams of the looms4 ,a line must be marked on the floor with chisel or other convenient instrument parallel to this shaft and exactly below it4 ,by dropping a plumbline from various parts of the shaft1 the starting points can be obtained for stretching a line to mark from4 ,the same arrangement is adopted at every third shaft1 as the intermediate ones may be measured4 ,from these lines the distance at which the loom feet are to stand may be measured1 just leaving convenient space for getting between two full beams in each loom4 ,the ends of the loom must be set parallel also1 so that on looking down the shop a straight row of machinery will be observed4 ,a line for setting the outside loom feet may be measured from the pillars1 after getting the first pair of looms in suitable position4 ,to test the accuracy of these measurements1 the breast beam of each loom1 as fixed1 must be examined in a line with the breast beam of the previously deposited one4 ,after the correct position is obtained1 each loom must be levelled up by thin sheets of wood packing placed under the feet as required4 ,holes are then drilled in the floor1 wood pegs inserted1 and long iron nails driven home4 ,a good passage round each group of four looms cannot be too greatly valued1 and likewise a broad alley here and there running the whole length of the shed4 ,,loom ,,tackling4 ,a loom requires a considerable amount of repairs and renewals1 the performance of which is delegated to an overlooker 7sometimes called a tackler or tuner7 placed over each hundred looms4 ,if on fancy goods1 fewer looms are under the control of one man2 if plain narrow goods are woven1 more4 ,his work is to keep the looms supplied with warps1 gait them up1 repair or tackle the loom when necessary1 provide weavers1 and1 especially in a small place1 perform rather multifarious duties4 ,when the weavers' beam has been placed in the loom1 having the healds and reeds attached to the warp1 the overlooker draws the gears forward1 placing a weight rope or chain round one beam ruffle1 and1 if a loomed beam1 fixes the reed4 ,the healds are slung loosely to the heald roller straps1 and then the twist attached to the sand roller4 ,if old healds are used1 the lap end of a former cut is placed on the roller1 and the warp tightened4 ,if new healds have had the warp drawn in1 a lap end is attached to the roller and the twist tied to it1 care being taken to draw up any ends which may be ruffled4 ,the temple is fixed so as to revolve in the direction required to distend the cloth4 ,then with the cranks near the top centre1 the healds are levelled by means of the cords below being attached to the lambs and treadles4 ,after a little manuvring so as to make the shed bottom nicely1 whichever heald is down1 to get the healds level all across1 and clear of any obstruction or drooping ends1 the lease rods are put in4 ,the second and back healds are raised when the back rod has to be put through the front1 the third being up for the thin rod4 ,a few picks of weft being put through by hand1 a start is made after finishing the weighting of the beam and changing the pinion1 if necessary4 ,the weighting is somewhat important2 for light cloths1 fine yarns and light picks less weight is required than for the heavier classes of goods4 ,more weight is required for full beams and under certain other conditions4 ,it is impossible to enumerate all the little points in the management of looms1 which it is the overlooker's duty to perform2 and only long practical experience can teach their proper performance4 ,however1 neglecting the derangements1 which cause faults in the cloth1 and which will be treated of in the next chapter1 we will refer to some of the commoner mishaps4 ,the shuttle flying out of the loom is caused generally by some obstruction in the shed1 floats1 projecting reed1 top of shed too low or bottom too high1 or by a crooked spindle or bad picker4 ,cops flying off the shuttle peg may be attributed to too large holes in the cop1 or shuttle spring too weak or unpacked4 ,when the loom does not knock off when the weft is done1 the fork may be bent and thus lifted by grate1 an end of weft may be hanging to the shuttle sufficiently long to catch in the cloth and lift the fork4 ,but for the cause of this1 and also of the loom knocking off when weft is not broken1 the weft stop-motion must be carefully watched4 ,the picking may sometimes be so strong as to throw the shuttle out of the loom1 or so weak as to allow it to be trapped by the closing shed4 ,by judicious setting of plate and bowls1 any desired result may be obtained4 ,when by the shuttle binding too tightly in the box1 etc41 a fracture of the weft is made1 it is said to be 8cut40 ,,the ,,weavers4 ,the average weaver runs four looms1 but in many sheds provision is made for three1 or even two-loom weavers1 whilst qualifying themselves for the higher number4 ,in some ,north-,east ,lancashire towns five and six-loom weavers are not infrequent on narrow strong goods4 ,the weaver's duties require some little skill1 and consist of piecing up the broken ends of warp and drawing them through the heald and reeds1 filling the shuttles with weft and placing them in the loom as those in working become empty1 oiling1 doffing 8cuts10 putting in the coloured headings--an important part of dhooty weaving--oiling1 and performing simple repairs4 ,the wages obtainable on ordinary goods1 such as shirtings and printers1 should not be less than #aas4 per pair1 to give satisfactory results1 while #abs4 #f;d4 per pair on dhooties and simplest fancy goods is good4 ,the waste in this process is important1 four per cent4 being allowable on common yarns1 say #cf's1 this being reduced on finer and consequently better copped yarns 7weft74 ,the foregoing remarks apply to the weaving of plain cloths only1 and that by the most usual methods4 ,in any process whatever1 it may be that some variation will be found to exist1 and1 before concluding this part of the subject1 the modifications of the one standard type of loom may be referred to4 ,in shedding1 the tappets may sometimes be placed on a third shaft1 driven from the tappet shaft1 and termed a twill shaft1 because by altering the tappets and the speed the loom may be made available for weaving twills4 ,when the tappets are fixed to the twill shaft they are smaller than those fixed to the tappet shaft4 ,,setting ,,out ,,tappet4 ,the setting out of a tappet is an important problem4 ,two circles must be described round the same centre1 the difference in the radii being the stroke of the tappet--thus1 say ,a ,b or ,c ,d in ,fig4 #bh is #c-a_/b inches1 then that is the stroke of the tappet4 ,this is also the radius of the smaller circle4 ,the large circle must now be apportioned according to the number of picks to the round in plain cloth1 say two4 ,the circle is then divided into two parts by ,e ,f4 ,suppose we wish the healds to be still during two-thirds of a revolution of the crank-shaft1 then as ,e ,a ,f represents a whole revolution1 divide it into six parts where marked1 place four of these parts from ,g to ,h for the dwell1 and leave ,e ,g to form part of the lifting1 and ,f ,h part of the depression of the healds4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,the movement of the rising healds commences1 however1 before the falling heald has come to a pause2 therefore we must trespass into the lower half to an extent equal to ,e ,g and ,h ,f1 thus obtaining by drawing a diameter through ,g and the centre1 also through ,h and the centre1 the parts ,g ,j and ,h ,k for the rise and fall respectively4 ,divide ,c ,j now into six parts by radii to the centre1 also divide by arcs of circles transversely1 to these radii1 the space between the small and large circles into six parts1 then by drawing a line diagonally through the figures thus formed1 we get a line ,g ,m giving an easy fall from the large circle to the small one1 and by similar treatment a rise on the opposite side from ,n to ,h4 ,this is the theoretical construction of a plain tappet1 from ,m to ,n being the dwell from the heald when up4 ,n to ,h the depression1 and ,h to ,g the dwell for the heald when down2 and it will be noted1 that although ,g ,h is apparently larger than ,n ,m1 the time of dwell is the same in each case1 in consequence of the arc ,n ,m being so much nearer the centre4 ,in practice1 the hollows ,n and ,m may be found rather fuller than shown here4 ,this method of construction applies to tappets with an increased number of picks to the round1 a point which will be found described in ,chapter ,,vi4 ,the speed of tappets is an important subject for calculation in connection with the loom4 ,when the tappets are on the tappet shaft they are always plain1 and are driven at half the speed of the crank-shaft1 in consequence of the latter shaft only representing one pick1 while the tappet shaft1#c carrying two picking plates1 represents two picks4 ,should the tappets be on the twill shaft1 and driven from the tappet shaft1 then the calculation is simple--e4g41 say four picks to the round are required1 then the crank-shaft must revolve four times for the twill shaft once4 ,the tappet shaft must revolve half as many times as the crank-shaft--that is1 twice--and the ratio between the speeds is as #b to #a1 which is also the ratio of the wheels1 say #af and #cb1 or #bj and #dj1 the larger wheel being on the twill shaft4 ,in this case the rule is to divide the number of picks to the round by #b1 which will give the ratio of the wheels gearing the tappet and twill shafts4 ,occasionally1 the shaft carrying the tappets is driven from the crank-shaft direct1 and the ratio of the gearing will be as one is to the number of picks to the round--say #f picks to the round--then such a pair as #ab and #gb1 or #ae and #ij1 will be required4 ,obviously1 for a large number of picks1 an intermediate pair would have to be inserted--say #ac picks to the round must be woven1 the wheel on the crank-shaft being #be and the last wheel on the same shaft as the tappets is #fe4 ,then1 to get the size of the pair of intermediate wheels on the stud1 multiply #ac by #be and divide by #fe1 which will give the ratio of the size of the two wheels3-- 7#ac #be7_/fe #cbe_/fe #fe_/ac ,these1 or a multiple of these1 are the wheels required1 which may be proved3-- 7#fe #fe7_/7be #ac7 #ac picks to a round4 #c ,the term tappet shaft is used here in the sense understood in ,north ,lancashire--i4e41 the shaft driven from the crank-shaft and carrying the picking plates and tappets if plain4 ,,split ,,cloths ,,and ,,motions4 ,split cloths are sometimes woven in the ordinary loom when narrow widths are required and a perfect selvage is not a necessity4 ,thus1 a #dj-;inch loom may weave a cloth with a few empty dents at the centre1 whilst on each side of the space thus caused the warp threads are crossed 7on the gauze principle7 between each pick to make a firmer selvage than could be got by ordinary lifting4 ,the weft threads are then slit along this space by a sharp knife1 giving two cloths1 each #bj inches wide4 ,one system of forming the selvage is by having an extra loop attached to the top stave of one heald1 and carrying a thread which is drawn through the other heald4 ,by correct drafting this thread can be made to lift at every pick first on one side of its neighbouring warp thread and then on the other4 ,the same object is attained in a split motion1 patented by ,j4 ,r4 ,shorrock1 and ,taylor1 of ,darwen4 ,by means of eyeletted straps revolving round a tightened warp thread1 the doup or crossing threads drawn through the eyelets make a very firm selvage when slit4 ,the picking motions require a few further remarks4 ,for some goods1 especially fancies1 the under pick is used4 ,in this case the picking stick is rather longer than the slay sword1 and is fixed parallel to it1 projecting from the rocking shaft through the shuttle box and picker4 ,the loom1 ,plate ,,vii41 possesses the under-pick arrangement4 ,it is driven by means of the picking plate acting downwards on a lever centred at one end1 whilst carrying at the other end a strap fixed to the picking stick about four or five inches from the bottom end of it4 ,the scroll or side pick is a favourite one for velvet looms4 ,the picking plates are fixed on the crank-shaft1 and consist simply of a disc of metal carrying a lug so as to catch against a latch or lug on a short inclined shaft at the loom side4 ,this shaft at the bottom end actuates by means of a strap and picking stick fixed as in the under-pick loom4 ,obviously1 the picking from each side of the loom must be done alternately1 and the plates at the loom side are arranged so as to act only once in two revolutions of the crank-shaft4 ,this motion is obtained by means of a scroll plate on the crank-shaft carrying a groove forming an inner and outer ring in the plate2 in this works a slide in the inner ring for one pick1 then traversing the outer part of the groove for the second pick4 ,this slide regulates the latch on the short shaft4 ,when in the outer ring the latch is lowered so as to be caught by the lug on the picking plate1 but is out of the way when the sliding piece is in the inner ring4 ,of course1 when the slide is in the inner part of the groove at the right-hand side of the loom1 the slide of the left-hand picking scroll is in the outer ring1 so as to pick alternately4 ,this picking arrangement is very compact4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,vi4--,,shedding ,,motions4 ,to face p4 #gi4 ,,speeds4--,,average ,,speed ,,of ,,new ,,looms4 ,reed ,space4 ,picks per ,minute4 ,if ,double ,cylinder ,plain4 ,if ,dobbied4 ,if ,drop ,boxes4 ,jacquard4 #cb inches #bdj #aij #aij #aij #dd #bjj #age #age #age #ed #ahj #afj #afj #afj #ff #aej #aej #aej #aej ,on goods with ordinary headings1 the stoppages for changing shuttles1 piecing ends1 etc41 should not be more than one minute in twelve1 or #h per cent4 ,,reed ,,space4 ,the reed space of a loom is measured from backboard on the one side to the fork grate on the other4 ,thus1 what is called a #dj-;inch loom measures #de inches reed space1 and in it it is usual to weave cloth up to #da inches wide1 although it is possible to weave #db-a_/d-;inch cloth in it4 ,a #bf-;inch loom has a #cj-;inch reed space1 and will weave to #bh inches4 ,in wider looms the reed space is about six inches above the nominal size of the loom4 ,,top ,,motions4 ,in ,plate ,,vi4 are shown a number of top motions to keep the healds tight when worked from below4 ,each is self-explanatory1 and by imagining the effect of changing the heald or healds which are up for others1 the value of each arrangement will be seen4 ,for example--take ,h1 a #c-shaft motion1 two up4 ,if ,no4 #b be required up and ,no4 #c down1 the change is made without any movement of the top pulley2 if ,no4 #a be required down and the other two up1 it will be drawn down a distance equal to the size of the shed--say #b inches2 whilst the small pulley being connected to a step pulley on the larger one1 is only lifted half that distance--say #a inch4 ,now1 if the small one be raised #a inch and ,no4 #c heald be kept still1 ,no4 #b heald will lift #b inches--the height desired4 ,it will be noted that a top motion is adapted only for one number of healds1 and that the same number must be up in successive picks4 ,should different numbers be up at consecutive picks1 a spring top as at ,s is used4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,cotton ,,cloth1 ,,cloth-,,looking1 ,,varieties1 ,,dimensions1 ,,standard ,,makes4 ,it is for export that the bulk of cotton goods are manufactured1 for although the home trade is extensive when considered separately1 yet if compared with the foreign trade it becomes unimportant4 ,goods for export may be classed into a few standard makes of cloth distinguished by some special feature as to length1 yarns1 finish or other characteristics such as are described later4 ,before leaving the mill1 the classification of the goods by name receives no attention1 the order to which they belong being the only distinguishing description4 ,,cloth-,,looking4 ,the pieces are brought into the warehouse off the mill1 by the weavers1 and are hooked in folds of #a yard4 ,this operation is performed on the hooking or plaiting machine1 a contrivance which requires little or no special description1 as a few minutes' examination of it will suffice to acquaint even a tyro with its construction and working4 ,in some concerns the looking is done on this machine4 ,probably the cost is lessened and the cutlooker sees the whole of the piece 7not missing one side of the 8flue10 as not infrequently happens in the counter-looking71 but the fact that the smaller faults are not all seen renders the advantages questionable1 unless the cloth is afterwards counter-looked4 ,the cloth-looker's duty is to examine each piece of cloth1 reporting any fault to the person responsible1 and throwing out as seconds the pieces which are not up to quality4 ,the faults attributable to the weaving are3-- ,,faults ,,in ,,cloth4 ,bare1 badly-covered cloth1 caused by the back rest of the loom being too low1 the shed too large1 late treading and picking1 too much weight or uneven sheds4 ,cockly cloth looks raw and has raised lumps on the face caused by too little weight4 ,cracks are sometimes weavers' faults in not letting back after weft breaking1 take-up motion working unequally1 or through some parts not being screwed up tightly4 ,the reed case also requires attention in case of this objectionable fault4 ,uneven cloth is generally attributable to the unevenness of the weft1 although anything tending to unequal release of the warp from the beam1 such as weights touching the floor1 damp ropes1 or loose pivots1 may cause it4 ,reedy cloth is caused when a few dents of the reed are bent out of position4 ,bad sides are either slattered1 caused by unsatisfactory bottoming1 or are frayed and raw from lack of sufficient side ends4 ,occasionally a bad picker catches the weft and causes a peculiar ridgy selvage4 ,floats are the result of obstruction in the shed generally1 broken twist keeping down the warp threads and preventing their interweaving with the weft2 a raw place is caused which can generally be obliterated4 ,mashes are on a larger scale4 ,if the shuttle is entrapped without the reed flying out1 in loose reed looms1 or the protector acting in fast reeds1 the twist is entirely broken out for several inches in the width4 ,to piece up all these ends leaves an ugly place1 and it is occasionally preferable to weave on and seam the piece1 after cutting out the obnoxious part4 ,a shuttle spelling will cause the same effect as trapping4 ,broken picks are caused by several layers of weft coming off the cop into one shed4 ,these should be picked out by the weaver1 as1 besides being unsightly1 they are objectionable in certain after processes--printing1 raising for oilcloth purposes1 etc4 ,in figured work faulty patterns1 slattering borders1 and missing picks or ends require attention4 ,black oil--that is1 oil discoloured by being mixed with the particles of iron ground off the shaft necks and bearings--must be washed out with soap and water4 ,oxalic acid is often applied to the spots1 combining with the iron and forming oxalate of iron1 which1 being soluble in water1 can be rinsed out4 ,this substance1 unless thoroughly cleansed out1 acts somewhat corrosively on the fibre1 and for this reason is tabooed by some cloth buyers4 ,in coloured work care must be taken that the colour shows up well and bright4 ,according to the prevalence of any of these faults in a piece of cloth1 the cloth-looker has to select and classify his deliveries4 ,other important items are included in the scrutiny--short lengths and widths1 short or uneven weights1 too light reed and pick1 wrong headings1 are all very important points1 necessitating careful attention1 and instant report of same to the persons responsible4 ,,headings4 ,headings1 or cross-borders1 are bars of coloured wefts placed at the end of each piece of cloth for distinction from other pieces4 ,these headings are also placed at other parts of the cloth1 indicating where the pieces are to be separated by the retail dealers4 ,these headings are very fanciful and intricate in some instances1 ranging1 as they do1 from the simple stripe heading of #b or #d picks1 to the extensive ,sarrie or ,madras heading #ae or #bj inches in length4 ,the principal headings are the ,bombay1 ,ceylon1 ,sarrie1 ,calcutta1 and ,madras4 ,,packing4 ,after having been passed the goods are made up into portable bundles of about #aj pieces in each1 and are ready for forwarding to the warehouses in ,manchester1 or possibly to the bleachers or printers1 or to some ,glasgow or ,london house4 ,some few manufacturers have also a shipping connection1 when the cloth is packed and forwarded direct without passing through the hands of the ,manchester agent4 ,the bulk of the cloth goes to ,manchester1 and here undergoes a second scrutiny preparatory to packing if shipped 8in the grey10 or previous to being forwarded to the bleacher1 dyer1 finisher1 or printer1 if it has to undergo these processes before export4 ,bleaching is the removal of any colour from the cloth by the action of chemicals4 ,printing is the colouring of the surface of the cloth according to a figure or design1 and may be in several colours4 ,in finishing1 the cloth is coated with filling substances and has a gloss imparted to it1 greatly improving the appearance of the fabric4 ,in such fabrics as cotton blankets1 or for the thin oilcloths known as ,american cloths1 the fibres on the surface of the cloth have to be raised2 this operation is performed in a raising machine1 where1 by means of pointed filleting1 the face of the fabric is abraded until the fibres form a nap4 ,in packing1 the pieces are arranged in bales and compressed to about half their bulk when loose4 ,the layer of protective material round the bales consists of white paper1 brown paper1 followed on the outside by black oiled sheets and pack sheeting4 ,occasionally1 linen sheets are introduced between the inner and the outer layers as an additional protection against stain or damage4 ,the bales are hooped in the press4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,cotton ,,cloth4 ,the principal makes of cotton cloth are given below1 together with remarks concerning export1 sizing1 etc41 and at the end a list of the standard sizes is attached4 ,the first group of cloths includes the shirtings1 dhooties1 and long-cloths3-- ,shirtings are heavily-sized goods1 #abe per cent4 not being unusual4 ,the widths vary from #ch to #ej inches1 length about #cg-a_/b yards long-stick4 ,reed and pick from #ab square to #ai #ah4 ,these goods are made to weight--thus1 a #ci-;inch #af #ae weighs #h-a_/dlb42 a #de-;inch1 #ilb42 a #ej-;inch #ajlb4 ,various kinds are made1 some medium-sized4 ,what is known as ,indian shirting is the heavy-sized class4 ,shirtings are exported to ,india1 ,china1 ,japan1 ,turkey1 ,italy1 ,levant4 ,a good class is made1 bleached1 and exported to ,egypt1 ,japan1 ,india1 and ,china1 as white shirtings4 ,dhooties are shirtings ornamented by stripes of grey or coloured yarn1 and in suitable lengths for ,hindoo loin cloths4 ,the stripes are not of very varied character in grey dhooties1 being simply tape edges formed by cramping grey or bleached yarn at the selvage4 ,in coloured dhooties1 stripes of vari-coloured warps are introduced about an inch from the edge of the cloth1 and varying from half an inch in width to #d inches1 sometimes being introduced at intervals all across the piece4 ,in dobby-dhooties these stripes are woven in figures4 ,a range of dhooties includes all widths from #bb to #ej inches1 and the length of scarf varying from #b yards in the smaller size to #e yards in the larger4 ,a scarf is the distance between the headings1 which in these goods are very extensive1 sometimes reaching to #bj inches in length at the juncture of the two scarves4 ,a ,range #bb inches and #bc inches #b-yard scarf4 #bd #be #b-a_/b #bf #bh #c #bi #cb #c-a_/b #ce inches 444 444 444 #d ,the higher widths being variously #d-a_/b or #e yards4 ,dhooties are made up in about #dj-yard lengths--thus1 a piece #dd inches wide would contain #d double scarves4 ,the yarns employed vary similarly to shirtings1 from #cj_/dj's warp1 #cf_/fj's wefts4 ,the dress of a male ,hindoo consists of a dhootie containing #d square yards1 a doputta of #h square yards1 and a turban of #ab square yards2 whilst in addition the ,hindoo woman wears sarrie1 a similar cloth to the dhootie4 ,india is the recipient of the dhooties in greatest quantity4 ,sarongs go to ,java1 patadiongs to the ,phillipines4 ,the shirtings here mentioned must not be confused with the home trade shirtings--goods in which only the finest yarns are used1 free from any of the objectionable filling referred to above4 ,to this class belong long-cloths1 mediums1 ,wigans 7plain and twill71 double warps and twills4 ,export long-cloths are plain goods1 shirting style1 #cf yards long1 generally #cf inches wide1 #ab square1 medium size4 ,another group of sized cloths1 next in importance to the shirtings1 consists of the ,t-cloths1 ,mexicans1 domestics1 and madapollams4 ,t-cloths are always #bd yards in length1 of coarse yarns1 heavily sized1 from #bh to #cb inches wide1 #ab #aj to #af #af1d #dlb4 and #flb4 in weight4 ,the name is derived from the mark ,t of the first exporters4 ,exported to ,india1 ,china1 ,japan1 ,south ,america1 ,roumania and ,servia4 #d ,in this ,chapter1 where reed and pick is given1 it must be understood as referring to a quarter of an inch1 unless otherwise specified4 ,thus--#ab #aj means #ab ends and #aj picks in a quarter of an inch1 or #dh ends and #dj picks per inch4 ,domestics are from #bh to #ci inches1 #fj1 #gb1 #hj1 or #if yards4 ,warp1 #ah_/bd's2 weft1 #af_/dj's2 and from #ad to #af reed and pick2 medium to heavy size4 ,exported to ,south ,america1 ,italy1 ,levant1 ,turkey1 ,egypt4 ,a somewhat better class is made and used extensively by the home trade4 ,mexicans are of better quality than the foregoing1 and are always above #ag #ag reed and pick1 yarns1 twist1 coarse2 weft1 medium2 medium size2 #bh to #cb inches in width4 ,exported to ,south and ,central ,america4 ,madapollams are lighter in reed and pick than the foregoing1 being about #aa and #ab square2 width1 #bh to #cb inches1 and similar in length to the ,t-cloths and ,mexicans2 sized medium4 ,exported to ,india principally1 also to ,mediterranean ,states and to ,south ,america4 ,dyeing and printing cloths form an important department4 ,under the first heading ,turkey reds are prominent4 ,these1 like printers1 are cloths of good quality4 ,shirting counts and widths1 but about twice the length2 pure size4 ,exported to ,japan1 ,china1 ,india4 ,printers1 ,burnley makes1 sometimes dubbed ,burnley lumps1 are #cb inches1 #aaf yards1 #af #af1 #cb's_/#ej's yarn4 ,quality important1 yarns good1 lightly sized1 warps even and hard-twisted1 weft free from unevenness1 snarls1 etc4 ,glossop printers1 #cf inches1 #ai #bb2 #ej yards1 #aa-c_/dlb4 ,these are not the only descriptions of printers1 coarse cloth of varied dimensions being required1 which1 when stamped with patterns of every conceivable style1 are exported to ,india1 ,persia1 ,italy1 ,brazil1 ,levant1 ,java and ,japan4 ,in light goods1 tanjibs1 jacconetts1 mulls and cambrics may be classed together4 ,tanjibs are the coarsest2 #cj to #ej inches wide1 #ch yards long1 #ab square1 #cb's_/#dj's2 lightly sized4 ,jacconetts and nainsooks are finer2 #ci to #dd inches1 #ad #ad to #af #af1 #cb's_/#ej's1 about #bj yards long4 ,mulls are somewhat similar in style2 #ci to #ej inches wide1 #bj yards1 #af #af to #bj #bj1 from #fj's to #ajj's yarn2 pure size4 ,cambrics are the finest of the group2 generally wide from #bd square to #cf square1 #hj to #afj's yarn2 pure size4 ,turkey1 ,india1 ,china1 ,japan1 ,roumania1 the ,levant1 ,egypt1 are all customers for these four cloths4 ,book and tarletan muslins are very fine home trades4 ,a variety of cambric called embroidery cloth is largely made in some districts4 ,it is of first-class quality1 usually about #ej inches wide1 and cut up into short lengths4 ,it is chiefly exported to ,germany and ,switzerland1 there to be embroidered by the machines spread over the country districts1 and returned as ,swiss work1 etc4 ,sheetings are very wide goods2 #fj to #ajj inches4 ,the yarns are coarse1 generally #ab's to #bj's1 although fine sheetings are frequently made4 ,waste plains are coarse goods woven with yarn spun from waste4 ,ginghams1 checks1 zephyrs1 although coloured goods1 are of plain weave1 and of unclassifiable dimensions4 ,other plain cloths needing little remark in consequence of their unimportance are3-- ,tarletan ,muslin #eb inches #dj yards1 #ac square ,chambrey #bh #cj #bg #bb ,hair-cord ,muslin 444 #ei #bd #bj #bb ,warped #a twofold1 and #a fine single4 ,blue ,mottle #bg inches #if yards1 #af #aa ,blue warp1 white weft4 ,victoria lawns1 fine goods1 and ,taffechelas1 formerly important goods1 are now in little request4 ,cotton cloths other than plain3-- ,drills4--,heavy #c-shaft twills1 narrow1 heavily sized4 ,exported chiefly to ,china1 few to ,cyprus1 ,levant1 ,turkey1 and ,brazil4 ,cretonnes4--,printed twill1 made from coarse waste wefts1 finer warps1 various widths1 generally narrow4 ,home trade2 also exported to ,turkey and ,british ,colonies4 ,jeans4--,finer #c-shaft twills1 plain borders1 narrow1 for printing or finishing4 ,sateens4--#e-shaft broken twills1 #cj to #cf inches1 #ge to #ij yards1 #gj to #if reed1 #dj to #hj picks1 #cf's to #hj's weft4 ,velveteens4--,narrow1 heavy-picked cloths1 from #ij to #abj to the quarter-inch1 yarns fine and best quality1 #hj to #ajj yards4 ,home trade and general export4 ,cords1 ,fustians1 ,corduroys4--,heavy1 figured cloths1 #bj's yarn1 #ij to #adj picks to a quarter-inch1 #gj to #ij yards4 ,brocades4--,fancy jacquard goods2 #cf inches1 #ge yards2 #gb to #if reed1 #bj to #bf picks4 ,doriah ,stripes4--,cloth carrying crammed stripes--not in colour--are often narrow1 #bf to #cj inches1 #aj yards long1 #ab to #cj reed by #ac to #ad picks2 yarn1 #dj_/ej's ,t2 and finer wefts4 ,leno4--,narrow1 generally #cj inches2 #bd to #dj yards1 very variable in reed and pick2 yarns4 ,in white check we find3-- ,figured ,checks4--#cj to #cf inches1 #ac #af to #ah #bj2 #ab yards single cuts4 ,satin ,check #dj inches #cb yards1 #af #bj ,tape ,check #cf #bd #bb #bj #cg #dh #bj #bd ,,standard ,,makes4 ,width4 ,length4 ,reed and ,pick4 ,yarn or ,weight4 ,shirtings #ci #cg-a_/b #af #ae #cj_/cf's #h-a_/dlb4 ,t-,cloths #cb #bd #ad #ad -- #flb4 ,mexicans #cb #bd #ah #ah -- #glb4 ,jacconetts #dd #bj #ad #ad #dj_/ej's -- ,mulls #ej #bj #bj #bj #hj_/ajj's -- ,domestics #bi #hj #ad #ad #ah_/ah's -- ,dhooties #dd #dj #af #ae #cj_/dj's -- ,printers #cb #aaf #af #af #cb_/ej's -- ,in this connection1 as reliable and comprehensive a list as it is convenient to gather is placed before the reader2 although1 from the varied character of cotton cloth1 many specialities are omitted1 such1 maybe1 as those cloths used in the hat trade for lining1 the oilcloths1 umbrella cloths1 and numerous milliners' and drapery requirements for the home trade4 ,illustration3 ,decoration ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,fancy ,,weaving1 ,,tappet ,,and ,,dobby ,,work1 ,,analysis ,,of ,,cloth1 ,,tappets1 ,,cloth1 ,,dobbies1 ,,dobby ,,cloth1 ,,gauze1 ,,handkerchief ,,motion4 ,an important and increasingly successful department of cotton manufacturing is that comprised under the heading of fancy work4 ,here a great amount of skill and intelligence is necessary1 and in the more complicated goods a display of talent uncalled for in the limited and well-trodden ways of plain manufacturing4 ,in fancy weaving not only do we come across the variations of manufacturing details which present themselves in the ordinary branches1 but1 in addition1 an infinite variety of patterns and different designs crowd upon the one side1 while on the other an artistic eye is required to combat with and blend the varied groups of colours and shades in harmony and beauty4 ,a moment's reflection will remind the reader of the great number of the cotton cloths which come under the heading of fancies1 and for purposes of convenience we must treat of them under the headlines of three chapters--,simpler fancies1 ,jacquard and complicated fancies and ,checks4 ,,classification ,,of ,,cloth4 ,woven fabrics of any material may be divided into four main classes3--,plain1 figured1 gauze and woven pile cloths2 laces formed on an entirely different structure being disregarded4 ,plains show no figure of any nature on the face of the cloth1 have every end and pick interwoven alternately1 while the warp forms a right angle with the weft4 ,apparent figures1 ribs and stripes may be made by using fine and coarse weft or alternate counts of warp4 ,stripes or checks of colour may be introduced1 but if the weave be unaltered the cloth still is classed as plain4 ,figured is a very comprehensive group1 consisting of the twills1 sateens1 velveteens1 figured borders1 figured checks1 damasks1 brocades1 dimity1 weft pile1 counterpanes1 fustians1 cords1 etc41 and almost all fancy cloths1 except gauze and warp pile4 ,gauze has a peculiar structure1 pure gauze differing from plain cloth in the ends1 weaving at an angle more acute than a right angle4 ,leno is one kind of gauze4 ,woven or warp pile cloth has a nap woven on the face and cut whilst in the loom--a class of cloth not frequently met with in cotton1 but generally in the silk and carpet trades4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,,analysis ,,of ,,patterns4 ,for purposes of reference and communication some method of representing cloth patterns on paper is necessary1 and the one generally adopted is to use point paper ruled in small squares by thin lines2 bolder lines group the smaller into larger spaces1 generally #h by #h1 as shown in ,fig4 #bi4 ,assuming that a row of horizontal spaces 7not lines7 represents a pick of weft1 and correspondingly a row down the paper is indicative of a warp thread1 a cross or mark is made where the twist shows on the face of the cloth4 ,thus1 ,fig4 #cj represents plain cloth4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,referring to ,fig4 #cj1 and following each pick across1 we find that first the warp and then the weft rise1 and by tracing any end we see that it floats over and under the weft alternately--this giving the well-known plain weave4 ,wherever the warp shows1 a cross is made in that intersection4 ,the cross is only used for convenience4 ,when a design has to be properly shown the whole of the intersection must be filled up thus3 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cd4 ,advocating the method of placing a for a twist riser is a departure from the rules of some authorities on weaving in the past1 and also from the system adopted in other textile industries at the present4 ,the reason for adopting the system mentioned is1 that for most cotton fabrics it is advantageous in facilitating the reading of the design1 for pegging in ,keighley dobby1 card-cutting in the jacquard1 planning tappets1 in showing up some classes of designs more clearly1 less work in marking some ground cloths with preponderating weft1 and in other technicalities1 the whole of which compensate for the disadvantages of the system in some few classes of cloths where a designer uses the alternate system of weft riser at his convenience4 ,in reference to ,fig4 #cj1 the beginner will clearly understand that the marks or crosses show the warp on the face of the cloth with the weft underneath it4 ,the same square if left blank would show the weft on the face with the warp beneath it4 ,thus1 the row of marks numbered #a in ,fig4 #cb shows number #a warp thread floating over #g picks out of #h1 and the row of blank space numbered #h shows the weft over warp thread number #h for the space of #g picks out of #h4 ,the cloth shown in ,fig4 #ca has its representation on point paper at ,fig4 #cb1 the numbers attached to the threads corresponding with the rows of spaces in the design4 ,in transferring a pattern from a piece of cloth to point paper1 a beginner would pin it to a board1 mark an end of warp1 say ,no4 #a in ,fig4 #ca1 and commencing with the bottom pick #a1 mark crosses on his point paper where the warp shows at any square in that pick--thus1 at the #ast1 #bnd1 #crd1 #eth and #ith ends--working upwards to the next pick1 starting at the same end4 ,similarly a second pick is put down on the point paper above the first1 always working in one direction1 say from left to right4 ,this is continued until the pattern begins to repeat itself1 as at pick #i1 when it is complete4 ,a pattern is the least number of ends and picks on which a cloth can be woven1 the picks or ends of a second pattern being facsimil of the first4 ,the analysis or pricking of patterns is performed by an experienced man without the tedious process of pulling the cloth asunder1 the pattern being read from the face of the cloth by means of a cloth-glass4 ,,designing4 ,designing 7actual7 is a very different process4 ,a figure or figures of some character must be originated suited to the class of cloth for which it is intended4 ,this is first sketched on plain paper1 called a rule1 painted 7if colour be desired71 and having due regard to economy in the weaving1 it is transferred to point paper4 ,this is done by ruling the design in inch squares1 and should the reed and pick per inch be equal1 #h #h paper is used2 if the reed and pick are in proportion to #h and #f1 #h and #aj1 #ab and #h1 or any other ratio1 point paper of that size is used1 and the figures will appear in the cloth proportioned as in the rule4 ,the leading figures of the pair of numbers are1 in jacquard work1 always equal to the number of rows of needles1 thus #h --is for a #djj machine1 #ab --for a #fjj4 ,,drafts4 ,after having obtained the pattern of a cloth it is necessary to draft the ends on the least number of healds on which the cloth can be woven4 ,drafts are represented in various ways--e4g41 by drawing lines representing the healds and marking the order in which the ends are drawn on them2 thus1 if the first end be drawn on the first or front heald1 the second on the second heald and so on1 we get a straight draft as shown in ,fig4 #ce4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ce4 ,the numbers represent the heald on which the end is drawn4 ,the ends are lettered in their order4 ,should the first end be on the first heald1 the second end on the third heald1 the third end on the second heald1 the fourth on the fourth heald1 we get a skip draft--thus3 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cf4 ,in practice it is usual to omit the lines and just give the draft1 thus3-- #d #c #b #a ,this is a very convenient method of representing a draft for the use of the drawer-in or the weaver1 but when using point paper it is better to reserve a few picks above the design to represent as many healds and indicate on which the end is drawn by making a small circle4 ,thus1 a honey-comb design is shown in ,fig4 #cg1 ,a4 ,it can be reduced to and woven on #h picks and #h ends1 as at ,b1 the pattern2 the draft is shown at ,c1 the #h ends being drawn on #e healds4 ,below is shown the method of obtaining these plans--a study of which remarks will enable the reader to perform similar work for other cloths4 ,commencing at the first end on the left-hand side1 it is placed on the first heald1 ,h #a2 looking across the pattern we find no other end working like it4 ,proceeding to the second end1 it is placed on heald number #b1 and as the eighth end works like it1 it is placed on the same heald shaft4 ,the third and seventh ends are marked for the third heald4 ,the fourth end working differently to any other except the sixth1 these two are placed on ,h #d2 whilst the fifth end only is left for the fifth heald4 ,this draft1 from its appearance1 is dubbed a point draft or ,v draft4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cg4 ,,lifting ,,plans4 ,it is now necessary to indicate when the healds shall be lifted to make the cloth with the given draft4 ,a portion of the point paper is taken as many spaces wide as there are healds1 and as long as there are picks to the round4 ,taking ,fig4 #cg again1 for example1 we find the lifting plan at ,d1 the ends and picks being numbered4 ,the marks indicate where the heald has to be lifted at the pick indicated2 thus1 taking the first heald1 we find it to be lifted at the #bnd1 #crd1 #dth1 #eth1 #fth and #hth picks1 a working necessary for the first end1 which is drawn on the heald in question4 ,the pegging plan for a dobby is a modification of this4 7,see page #ajf47 ,for a straight draft the pattern is exactly a duplicate of the lifting plan4 ,other names for this plan are tie1 working design1 treading plan1 and shedding plan4 ,the tie is a plan serving the same purpose of the lifting plan1 but somewhat differently arranged1 the end being laid horizontally in a line with the heald through which they are drawn2 thus1 for the honeycomb1 ,fig4 #cg1 the tie-up is shown at ,fig4 #ch1 in which ,a is the tie-up4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ch4 ,the lifting plan for ,fig4 #cb is shown at ,fig4 #cd1 ,a1 while the tie-up is shown at ,fig4 #cd1 ,b4 ,,shedding4 ,the principal motions for shedding--i4e41 raising the ends in the required order for producing the desired weave of cloth--are tappets1 the dobby1 and the jacquard4 ,the tappets and the dobby are described in this ,chapter4 ,the tappets1 which have the smaller range of work1 are taken into consideration first4 ,,tappets4 ,for the simpler classes of fancy weaving1 designated stavework1 tappets are often used4 ,these are arrangements of plates carrying projections to raise the healds when required1 the plates being placed so that the projections in several plates which are to act at one pick are in line with each other1 so as to raise the different healds at one and the same time4 ,tappets are fixed either above the loom 7and are named motions or ,jamieson's tappets71 or at the side of the loom--as1 for instance1 the ,woodcroft tappets4 ,in some cases1 for three and four-shaft twills1 under-heald tappets are used1 and fixed on the twill-shaft previously referred to 7page #gf74 ,in setting out a tappet--for a sateen motion1 for instance--first get our pattern1 ,fig4 #da1 which is composed of ,fig4 #ci1 a satin1 and ,fig4 #dj1 a plain for the selvage4 ,fig4 #da is the pattern on #g healds and #aj picks to the round1 that number being the least that will contain both #b and #e without remainder4 ,the draft being straight over the pattern is also the lifting plan1 and the first plate is required to lift the healds at the #ast and #fth picks4 ,dividing a circle into #aj parts1 we take the first part1 and allowing half a revolution of the crank-shaft for dwell1 obtain an inclined portion ,c for the raising1 and ,d for the depression of the heald 7as described in ,chapter ,,iv471 by dividing ,e ,c into six parts1 and describing six arcs of a circle1 afterwards drawing a line diagonally4 ,the tappet follows the circumference of the inner circle until it arrives at the #fth pick1 when another projection must be raised4 ,the complete tappet follows the form shown by the thick line4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ci4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #da4 ,it will be seen now that1 as the tappet only moves #a_/ajth of a revolution for one pick of the loom1 the heald connected with this plate will be actuated just as is required in the treading plan4 ,four other similar plates must be cast for the other satin healds1 which five will be bolted together so as to have projections at the #a1 #c1 #e1 #b and #d picks1 as shown at ,a4 ,to these are bolted two plain plates1 or1 as is more usual1 one casting equal to the whole seven4 ,the plates for plain show an alternate projection and space4 ,by the kindness of ,messrs4 ,willan ,mills1 of ,blackburn1 a sketch of their loom with one of these motions 7,smalley's patent7 affixed to it is shown4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #db4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dc4--,,loom ,,with ,,smalley',s ,,motion4 ,to face pp4 #ih and #ii4 ,the tappet is fixed on the upper frame-work of the loom and short treadles arranged above it4 ,to these the healds are attached and lifted by the plates1 being drawn down afterwards by springs and the healds4 ,in a recently-improved form the treadles raise the jacks to which the healds are attached1 giving a straight lift4 ,these tappets are seldom used for more than #h healds and #ab picks to the round4 ,above this extent in tappet work1 a ,woodcroft sectional tappet is used1 arranged at the loom side4 ,in these tappets the projections 7called risers and fallers7 are removable1 the tappet being adaptable to different patterns up to #ad staves and #bj picks4 ,in the ,yorkshire loom1 ,fig4 #bc1 the tappets are placed at the loom side1 and are connected with the top of the healds by rods4 ,tappets possess the advantage over other shedding motions of larger capacity1 such as the dobby3 7a7 in lower first cost2 7b7 steadier and stronger lift without risk of hooks slipping2 7c7 in having a split shed--i4e41 a shed which has one portion pulled down while the other is drawn up1 saving time4 ,dobbies and jacquards generally have a sunk shed1 and if by those machines a shed #b inches deep is required1 the lifting knives have to be raised the whole distance1 from the bottom to the top4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dd4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #de4 ,,cloths ,,woven ,,by ,,tappets4 ,among the cloths woven on tappets there are twills1 cloths in which a figure is woven diagonally across the cloth by raising the healds consecutively4 ,they are in large variety1 being woven on three shafts upwards and not confined to the lifting of a single heald at each pick2 as in some cloths two or three out of a larger number may be raised1 but the same number is up at every pick1 although moving one end or more at each pick4 ,a serge is a modification of a simple twill woven in this manner4 ,fig4 #dd represents a #d-shaft twill rising one in four1 while ,fig4 #de shows a #d-;end twill rising two in four1 called a denim1 swansdown1 or cashmere twill4 ,the satin weave is a broken twill--that is1 instead of lifting consecutively at each pick1 an end1 or in some cases two ends1 are passed over1 as shown in ,fig4 #ci 7sateen74 ,the ends are lifted in this order3 #a1 #c1 #e1 #b1 #d4 ,a #e-stave1 showing a weft satin1 is the standard for sateen4 ,the satin or broken twill applies to any number of twill staves--e4g41 a #ab-stave satin1 passing #d ends over1 lifts #a1 #f1 #aa1 #d1 #i1 #b1 #g1 #ab1 #e1 #aj1 #c1 #h4 ,a perfect satin never shows contiguous ends lifting together1 as such would give a 8spotty0 appearance4 ,as almost all the weft shows at one side of the cloth1 the parallelism of the threads gives to this weave its well-known lustre1 but unless fine yarns and reed with heavy pick are used a very frail structure is the resultant4 ,stripes are of various kinds4 ,the herring-bone or reversed twill forms an undulating pattern by using a point draft4 ,simple figures1 on not more than six or eight staves1 woven cramped between stripes of plain1 are called doriah stripes4 ,,pile ,,cloths4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #df4 ,velveteens are woven by motions similar to the one in ,fig4 #df1 generally on six staves4 ,the object aimed at in this cloth is to produce a firm ground cloth with picks of pile weft floating over several ends of warp4 ,pile picks are inserted between plain or twill ground picks and are firmly bound in at intervals1 so that when the floating portion is slit by the cutter the pile threads will not be loose4 ,in the uncut cloth a slight rib of weft is seen transversely4 ,a pattern of velveteen is given at ,fig4 #df4 ,velveteen is classed with the figured cloths1 for as it leaves the loom it presents no appearance which warrants other classification4 ,the fourth class of fabrics--woven piles--is woven in an entirely different manner4 ,a wire is inserted in every fourth shed instead of weft2 picks of weft are then put in and the wire withdrawn4 ,as it carries a knife1 the loops of warp over the wire are cut as it is pulled out1 leaving a pile on the cloth1 the length of which is perfectly regular1 differing from the weft pile velveteen in this respect4 ,the wires are inserted and withdrawn by additional mechanism attached to the loom4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dg4 ,,cords1 ,,fustians4 ,cords1 moleskins1 corduroy1 fustian1 bull-hides1 thicksets1 are all pile fabrics of a heavy character4 ,the pile is all in the weft floating upon a ground cloth4 ,different makes of each fabrics are woven and named frequently according to the style of this ground or backing weave--e4g41 tabby back means plain1 ,genoa is a #d-;end twill1 ,jeanette is a #c-;end twill1 double ,genoa1 double ,jeanette4 ,woodcroft tappets are chiefly used in the production of these cloths4 ,the cords show a broad wale or stripe running lengthway of the piece1 consisting of weft floating over the warp and ground cloth1 and in such a manner that when slit along the centre of each stripe the divided threads stand up to form a cord4 ,the weft of the next wale being cut similarly1 a stripe of pile fabrics is now formed1 having its centre above the groove which divided each stripe of uncut yarn4 ,a rounded effect is given to these cords by having the threads forming the centre of greater lengths than the sides of the cord1 they having had a longer float in the weaving4 ,this cloth is dyed and finished1 being sold as corduroy4 ,cords are of several kinds1 one class named 8constitution10 of which a pattern is given at ,fig4 #dg1 on #ab ends and #ab picks1 requiring #h staves to weave it4 ,the constitution is the broadest cord1 the thickset cord being the finest1 whilst #h and #i shafts1 bang-up1 ,mellor's round top and cable cords are names given to other varieties4 ,constitutionals are generally made on #h shafts2 yarns1 #cj_/b fold twist2 #af's to #bj's weft2 #abj to #adj picks to a quarter inch2 #cf to #dd reed1 ,stockport2 #ca inches wide1 #ajj yards long4 ,cables are on #aj and #ab shafts4 ,thicksets are on #f ends and #i picks1 #cj inches wide2 #cj to #dd reed1 ,stockport2 #ij to #abj picks to quarter inch2 #ad's twist1 #bb's weft4 ,in imitating skins of animals the bull-hide weave is resorted to either for beaver or lambskin finish2 woven on #h ends and #h picks4 ,moleskin is a smooth1 solid cloth1 and1 before finishing1 shows a very slight longitudinal rib which distinguishes it from the cotton velvets1 which have a transverse rib4 ,moleskin is often called velveteen1 although not correctly so2 really1 velveteens are the cotton weft pile velvets previously described4 ,these classes of cloth are woven with the non-positive or drag take-up motion1 which draws forward the cloth as it is knocked up by the slay4 ,a catch is raised by the rocking shaft of the loom1 and actuates by a ratchet worm and wheel the cloth roller4 ,the catch is only weighted sufficiently to draw the cloth forward when it is knocked up1 thus not acting when no weft is in the loom4 ,there is a heavy cloth woven from coarse 7waste7 yarns named cotton blankets or cotton flannel4 ,this fabric passes through a raising machine1 in which its surface is scratched by pointed steel teeth4 ,it is exported chiefly4 ,double cloth may be woven by tappets1 but as it is more frequently done in the dobby1 we will consider it in connection with that machine2 the same may be said of some spots1 handkerchiefs1 and other goods4 ,,dobbies4 ,these shedding motions1 in principle1 perhaps1 bear more relation to the jacquard than to the tappets1 but are included in the same chapter as the last in consequence of their frequent association in the same shed of looms1 both being adapted for stave work4 ,the dobby1 for very many classes of fancy cotton cloth1 has gained a reputation as a good shedding motion1 and is well worthy the attention of a student of this branch of industry4 ,its capacity is superior to tappets1 extending to #dj shafts1 and over two hundred picks to the round in some makes4 ,the machine is fixed above the loom1 ,plate ,,vii41 giving a direct lift to the healds1 which are kept down by springs or dead weights4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dh4--,,keighley ,,dobby4 ,dobbies are occasionally of single lift1 but in the cotton trade far more frequently double4 ,the difference is in the double lift having two sets of knives3 either knife can lift any heald1 and1 by duplicating1 a second knife can be preparing for and even commencing to lift a heald as the first drops2 it thus saves time and increases speed4 ,in single lift machines only one knife is used1 and in case of a heald having to be raised two picks in succession1 it would have to be dropped to the bottom of the shed after the first pick1 and raised again4 ,a double lift ,keighley is often called1 in error1 a single lift1 in consequence of only one shedding rod being used2 it however lifts twice in one complete stroke4 ,dobbies have the advantage over tappets in increased power of weaving fancier cloths1 a greater number of picks to the round1 and a possibility of changing to other patterns4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 ,a4 ,,fig4 ,b4 ,,fig4 ,c4 ,,plate ,,vii4 ,to face pp4 #ajd and #aje4 ,the leading characteristic of dobbies is1 that by means of pegs placed in revolving lattices1 any heald can be selected and raised by the machine4 ,the favourite dobby is the improved ,keighley1 first patented in #ahfg by ,messrs4 ,hattersley ,smith1 of that town--it was used to a considerable extent1 but recent improvements have greatly increased its value4 ,plate ,,vii4 and ,fig4 #dh show a general view of the machine--one of ,henry ,livesey's1 ,limited1 make1 on ,ward's principle1 #bj jacks1 double lift4 ,at the under side is seen a pegged lattice2 immediately above the pegs and resting on the topmost lag is a row of levers1 double the number of shafts or jacks representing the capacity4 ,the ,t knife lever works on the centre shown1 and slides the knives backwards and forwards in grooves at ,a and ,b4 ,the jacks to which at one end the heald cords are attached have at the other end latches fixed to them1 which are out of the way of the sliding knives1 unless purposely dropped on to them4 ,when a lag is in gear without any pegs1 none of the latches touch the knives1 and there is consequently no raising of the healds4 ,if all the holes be pegged1 one end of each lever is raised1 the other end depressed1 and consequently all the latches drop on the knives2 at the next stroke of which all the healds will be lifted4 ,by pegging a few of the holes1 say the #ast1 #crd1 and #ajth1 we should find only those three healds lifted2 in this manner any desired working of the healds may be obtained4 ,the lattice is made up of lags1 each of which suffices for two picks1 and as the barrel of the dobby will not hold less than #h lags1 a pattern of #af picks or more is required1 unless a smaller pattern be repeated4 ,in pegging1 the lags are placed so that the lattice stands as in the machine1 thus3-- ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #di4 ,numbers #a to #aj indicate the picks2 ,l #a to ,l #e indicate the lags4 ,in a left-hand machine the numbers here given 7,fig4 #di7 represent the order of the picks1 the lattice when in use moving over to the left4 ,b indicates the peg-hole for the back-jack1 the front or first jack being at ,a1 and the other holes ranging between2 there are two rows of holes on each lag1 each equal to #a pick4 ,taking ,fig4 #cg1 showing lifting plan which occupies #e healds and #h picks1 the pegging for this dobby will be as under1 the small number indicating where the peg is placed and which jack is lifted1 the picks being also indicated3-- ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ej4 ,,pegging ,,for ,,honeycomb1 ,,left-,,hand ,,dobby4 ,as at least #af picks are required1 a lattice would be prepared for #h lags1 #d being a repeat of those given4 ,for the other hand of dobby the pegging would commence at the right hand for the first pick1 and move towards the left4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ea4 ,the tie-up1 shown in ,fig4 #ch1 ,a1 is correct pegging for a right-hand ,keighley or ,ward dobby1 as is also #cd1 ,b4 ,among other makes of shedding machines the common dobby or witch machine may be mentioned4 ,it is of earlier invention than the ,keighley1 patents having been taken out for it at varying dates from #ahcj to #ahej4 ,in it the knives slide vertically2 there are two lattices1 all the odd picks being on one side1 the even ones on the other1 and a peg indicates a faller--contrarily to the ,keighley4 ,a sketch of a double-lift machine on this system1 called by the makers a ,blackburn dobby1 is shown at ,fig4 #ea4 ,the connection of the jacks with the lifting knives is made by hooked wires1 #b wires to each jack4 ,where there is no peg these hooks are in position over the knives2 thus1 whichever knife should lift1 the jack will be lifted by one of the two hooks4 ,where there is a peg1 however1 the wire is pressed back slightly1 sufficiently so as to remove the hook at the top of the wire away from the knife2 and there is no lift for the jack to which the wire is attached4 ,the pegging for a ,blackburn dobby of pattern ,fig4 #cb is shown in ,fig4 #eb1 which represents six jacks and four lags on each side of the machine1 a lag in the ,blackburn dobby only carrying the pegs for one pick4 ,the large figures indicate the picks and the smaller ones the jack pegged for the picks against which they stand4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eb4 ,the ,keighley is generally preferred by practical men for its strength and less liability of getting disarranged or broken4 ,other makes of dobbies are made1 resembling in principle one or other of the types given4 ,,cloths ,,woven ,,on ,,the ,,dobby ,include all makes from plain to #dj-shaft patterns4 ,stripe patterns of the character described on page #aja are frequent2 indeed1 this shedding motion is useful for stave work of all kinds1 including3-- ,spots or ,brilliantes--- ,small figures woven in the fabric at regular intervals1 often made from #aj to #ad shafts1 on a plain ground4 ,also1 cotton dress materials woven in figured stripes1 or a combination of stripes to form figured checks1 spot figures1 satin stripes and checks1 spot figures on plain satin or oatmeal ground--the latter weave being used frequently in fancy cloths woven with coarse yarn1 the effect being to show short floating ends apparently irregularly on the face of the cloth1 and thus a rough appearance is imparted4 ,the oatmeal weave is in different styles up to #dj-shaft4 ,double cloth is not now often made in cotton1 except for pillow slips1 light bags1 and similar cloths4 ,the semi-double cloth of the ,yorkshire trade1 formed by having an extra weft or warp for putting a cheap back to the cloths1 is not known in ,lancashire2 the extra weft of the velveteen being most nearly approaching the principle4 ,in plain1 double cloth weaving1 both warps are on one beam1 four healds being employed1 each movable1 independent of the others4 ,two healds carry the top cloth ends and two the bottom cloth4 ,the shuttle first puts a pick in the top cloth1 passing over three ends out of four1 all the ends for the bottom cloth being down and half of the top cloth ends2 then all the top cloth ends are raised with half of the bottom cloth ends1 the shuttle passing under three out of four1 and throwing a pick into the bottom cloth4 ,the ends of the top cloth are drawn in the first and second healds1 those for the bottom in the third and fourth1 thus3-- ,b------#d ,b--#c---- ,t----#b-- ,t-#a----- and are lifted as under3-- ,the pegging being-- #dth pick ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c 4 99 4 4 #crd pick ,no4 #b 4 4 4 99 #bnd pick ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #d 4 99 99 99 #ast pick ,no4 #a 99 99 4 99 #a #b #c #d ,the selvages are bound by the weft passing from the upper to the lower cloths1 and vice vers4 ,in some cloth1 for bags1 plain weaving of all the ends is resorted to at certain points to seam up the cloth4 ,a three-stave twill weave may be used by arranging the draft and pegging for six healds or a five-thread satin on ten healds4 ,,figured ,,dhooties4 ,in no stripe pattern1 perhaps1 is the dobby more generally used than in these cloths4 ,they differ from the ordinary plain dhootie in having coloured ends woven to a pattern along each selvage1 or occasionally #ab or #ae inches from the side also4 ,the patterns at each side are balanced--that is1 similar in figure1 with the inner part of the figure at one side being also the inner part at the other side4 ,this style of cloth may be described as figure with extra warp1 for the plain weave extends under the figure1 the figuring ends being 8cramped0 between the plains1 and bound by passing through the plain cloth4 ,in designing for these the plain end may be neglected4 ,the width of the coloured border is generally about #a inch1 although extending to #d inches in special cases4 ,the beams are warped in the manner described for plain dhooties1 but only the grey ends are drawn in the healds with any coloured warp which has to weave plain4 ,the ends which form the pattern are drawn through harness composed of separate leashes and mail eyes1 each with an elastic thread tied to them4 ,these we will refer to as the leashes4 ,they are placed behind the healds and tied as required to the jacks above2 the elastic cords are fixed to a bracket below1 so as to draw down the leash after the shedding4 ,above the mail eye is fixed a cumber board perforated with rows of small holes1 and used for keeping the leashes in proper order1 so as not to become entangled in the weaving4 ,a clear pattern is a great desideratum in this cloth1 consequently it is generally woven face down to prevent spoiling face by drooping ends4 ,in pegging for it the wrong side of the cloth is taken1 a pattern of it obtained from the coloured figuring ends only in the usual way1 and drafted on the required number of jacks4 ,the leashes are drawn through the cumber board about #f in each row1 but so arranged as to have all those to be tied to one jack drafted together4 ,the ends are drawn through at the drawer-in's frame1 and the leashes having been previously looped in bunches1 each bunch containing those intended for one jack1 the beam is ready for the loom4 ,in gaiting up1 the coloured ends often pass over a small special back rest1 and the bunches of leashes are tied to their respective jacks4 ,by pegging the dobby in the required order any desired jack or jacks may be raised1 and those ends kept above the plain cloth4 ,when the jacks are lowered back the same ends will weave below the plain cloth4 ,the body of the cloth is generally of plain weave1 although stripe and check patterns are occasionally introduced4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ec4 ,,gauze ,,and ,,leno ,,cloth4 ,this class of fabric is frequently woven by means of the dobby1 although the tappet and jacquard are occasionally used should the pattern come within the scope of either4 ,the peculiarity of gauze is1 that some of the warp ends cross over one or more of the other warp ends between the picks1 giving an open fabric1 sometimes of a beautifully delicate nature1 and yet strong1 considering the small amount of material used4 ,when gauze weaving is combined with plain it is styled leno4 ,the latter name is sometimes erroneously attached to the gauze itself4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ed4 ,fig4 #ec shows a pure gauze in plan1 and ,fig4 #ed the same in section4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ee4 ,fig4 #ee is the plan of a leno4 ,the threads marked heavily in each case are the crossing threads4 ,it will be noted from ,fig4 #ed that the crossing thread passes up alternately at each side of the backing thread1 pick by pick4 ,the operation of crossing is performed by doup healds4 ,in these an additional loop or half heald carrying a stave at the bottom is slung through the eye of an ordinary heald 7,fig4 #eg74 ,for the purpose of description1 the whole of this heald will be termed the doup4 ,this heald is used for crossing purposes1 while two or more ordinary healds are provided for the purpose of varying the working1 if necessary4 ,the draft for cloths1 ,figs4 #ec and #ee1 is as shown by ,fig4 #ef4 ,the crossing thread is drawn through two healds and passes under the backing thread as shown4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ef4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eg4 ,however1 the heald ,no4 #b can be used to raise the crossing thread on the left-hand side of the backing thread1 although it is drawn to the right of it at the front1 as whenever the back heald is lifted1 the loose stave of the doup is lifted also1 and the crossing thread is thus free to be wrought by ,no4 #b4 ,the weaving of the plain is performed by either ,no4 #b and the doup1 or by ,nos4 #a and #b4 ,in weaving the gauze portion1 healds ,no4 #a and the doup are used only4 ,four jacks are required--one for the back heald1 one for ,no4 #a heald1 one for lifting the whole doup when weaving gauze1 and a fourth for raising the half loop when necessary to release the crossing thread4 ,to weave the design ,fig4 #ee with the given draft1 at the bottom pick ,no4 #b heald and the loop will be raised1 at the next pick above the whole doup requires lifting1 at the third ,no4 #b and the loop1 at the fourth the doup1 at the fifth ,no4 #b and the loop1 at the sixth the plain commences and the doup is raised1 at the seventh ,no4 #a is raised1 eighth the doup1 ninth ,no4 #a1 tenth the doup1 which completes the pattern1 the eleventh being a repeat of the first4 ,it is not necessary that the crossing should be round one thread only1 but may be round three or four2 to do this1 of course1 the crossing thread would have to be drawn under three or four backing ends in the healds4 ,the crossing may also be in opposite directions1 say-- ,illustration3 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 ,,fig4 #eh4 as in ,fig4 #ei1 where the crossing thread passes over two backing ends4 ,every alternate end is1 in this case1 douped contrarily1 the same healds being used--the difference being made in the draft4 ,this style is called netting4 ,all the patterns hitherto mentioned have been single doups4 ,a more highly-ornamental class of goods is made in double-douped cloth4 ,here two-doup healds are used1 and1 consequently1 half of the crossing threads may be weaving plain at the same picks that the others are douping1 and then a reversal is made--the first half commencing to doup while the other section is weaving plain4 ,thus1 check patterns are made alternately gauze and plain4 ,double-douped netting and stripe patterns may also be made4 ,with a single doup1 only stripe patterns may be produced with the gauze running either transversely or longitudinally4 ,for more complicated patterns three or even four doups are employed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ei4 ,gauze patterns are not generally marked on paper as are other fabrics1 but sketched thus3-- ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fj4--;,,gauze ,,sketch4 ,,handkerchiefs4 ,handkerchiefs are made in cotton1 either by the drop-box1 the dobby1 or by a handkerchief motion4 ,we are referring now to those made without colour1 with ribbed side and cross borders4 ,a stripe border is made by warping the necessary coarse ends 7to form the selvage7 with the plain ends4 ,to put in the cross border1 either the drop-box loom is used with two or more shuttles having different counts of yarn1 or1 as is more general1 the shed is kept open for the reception of several picks of weft in the same counts as the body of the handkerchief4 ,this is easily done by the dobby1 which also continues to hold the weft at each selvage by a few plain ends worked from a different jack1 or by a catch cord4 ,it is impossible to have a lattice with as many lags as there are picks from heading to heading1 consequently lags are pegged to weave the heading only1 the lattice being stopped during the time that the plain body of the handkerchief is being woven4 ,in the double-lift dobby it is possible to stop it1 so that the pegging of the lags where the motion of the lattice is arrested will suffice to weave plain until motion is again communicated to the lattice4 ,sometimes a special handkerchief motion is used4 ,in this arrangement a chain of lags is arranged1 each lag having holes for three pegs4 ,by means of this motion1 which is shown in ,fig4 #fa1 8a border can be obtained without drop-boxes or dobby1 and without reducing the speed of the loom4 ,the tappets1 which are of the usual form for plain weaving1 are not secured to the tappet shaft1 but are driven from it through the medium of a clutch1 which1 when disengaged1 allows the shaft to continue revolving whilst the tappets remain stationary2 thereby enabling any required number of picks1 even or odd1 to be put into the same shed1 according to the length of time they are kept in this condition4 ,the clutch is under the control of a set of lattice1 which cause the disengagement of the clutch1 and a succession of pegs causes the tappets to remain out of action according to the desired number of picks required40 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fa4--;,,handkerchief ,,loom4 ,to face pp4 #aaf and #aag4 ,the other pegs regulate1 secondly1 the stoppage of the take-up to give a better defined rib2 and thirdly to stop the chain itself when necessary4 ,the chain only represents the picks in the heading1 and is stopped during the plain weaving of the body4 ,it is started again by an ingenious measuring motion1 which by a contrivance of levers starts the chain one pick1 after which the catch put out of gear by peg three continues the motion4 ,the makers claim for this motion a high rate of speed1 and a low first cost of apparatus4 ,illustration3 ,decoration ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,fancy ,,weaving ,,by ,,the ,,jacquard1 ,,its ,,construction1 ,,card ,,cutting1 ,,woven ,,pile ,,cloths4 ,the jacquard machine for shedding is employed in the production of some of the most complicated cotton fabrics that are woven4 ,in its primary principle it is very simple1 strangely so when we reflect on its importance in the manufacturing industry1 and that by it only are we enabled to make so very ornamental cloths of great extent and beauty4 ,originally a ,french invention1 the contrivance of ,joseph ,marie ,jacquard1 of ,lyons1 it was introduced into ,england in the early part of this century and adopted by the silk manufacturers4 ,its manufacture was early taken up by ,lancashire firms1 and we find now that in improved forms it is in extensive practical use in the cotton trade at the fancy weaving establishments of ,bolton1 ,ashton1 ,preston1 ,glasgow1 and other towns4 ,,the ,,jacquard ,,machine4 ,the advantage of this motion is in its enormous capacity or scope of varied working of the ends4 ,when we are aware of the existence of #abjj hook jacquards1 the capacity of which is equal to that of #cj dobbies of #dj jacks each1 or giving #fjj times as many different workings of the ends as a plain tappet1 we immediately recognise its value4 ,it is a machine for automatically selecting out of may be thousands of threads the end or ends required to give a desired effect in the cloth4 ,a representation of its simplest form is shown in ,fig4 #fb4 ,illustration3 ,cumber ,board ,taking a #djj hook machine1 the commonest size used for cotton weaving1 we find a row of #h needles or lances ,e of thin wire1 arranged horizontally2 at the left hand we see each of these attached to a spring in the spring box ,a1 the other end projecting about #c_/h-;inch through a needle board ,b4 ,each lance regulates a vertical wire hooked top and bottom1 and shown with each upper hook standing over its respective griffe or knife ,c4 ,these griffes1 eight in number1 are lifted simultaneously through being connected together at the ends4 ,the lower end of the hook rests on a wire grid ,j1 slotted so as to allow the lower end of the hooks--to which are attached the neck cords ,f--to pass through4 ,a bottom board below the bend is used for those machines which have no wire grid4 ,to these neck cords is attached the harness--i4e41 linen threads or leashes1 some seven feet in length1 carrying a brass mail-eye ,h1 through which the end of warp is drawn4 ,just above the mail-eye the harness passes through a cumber board ,c1 for the purpose of keeping in proper order and regulating the number of leashes per inch4 ,at the bottom of each leash is fixed a metal weight1 called a lingo1 intended to pull the leash down after having been raised to form the shed4 ,the method of raising the ends is as follows3--,a square cylinder is placed at ,d1 and makes a quarter of a revolution at each pick4 ,this cylinder carries a set of cards 7,n#a1 ,n#b1 ,n#c71 sheets of cardboard perforated in places4 ,supposing a #djj 7#djh7 machine is referred to1 each card has space for #djh perforations1 the holes corresponding in position with the ends of the #djh needles projecting through the needle board4 ,a hole indicates a lift4 ,,the ,,cards4 ,the cards are only perforated by groups of holes distributed incidentally1 and where no perforation is made the needles at that point are pushed back #c_/h-;inch by the cylinder4 ,this is sufficient to remove the tops of the corresponding hooks attached to these needles from their position over the griffe2 thus1 when this knife or griffe is lifted it does not actuate these hooks1 but only those which were not pushed back by the cylinder and card4 ,suppose1 for instance1 one hook out of four had to be lifted1 then #ajb perforations would be made in the card1 and #cjf hooks would thus be pressed back1 whilst #ajb only would be lifted4 ,the holes in these cards can be cut in any order1 and as one card acts for one pick only1 it is easy to realise the extent of the patterns which may be made2 a cloth1 for example1 requiring #bjj picks to the round1 all of which may be different in the order or number of ends lifted1 would require a set of #bjj cards4 ,in what is called a #djj machine1 #djh hooks are used1 the needles being arranged in #ea rows of #h each2 one row only is shown in ,fig4 #fb1 thus the others are arranged at the back of the one shown and in line with it4 ,a #ajj machine is in rows of #d4 ,a #bjj 7#bjd7 machine is in rows of #d or #h4 ,a #cjj 7#cjd7 #f1 #h or #ab4 ,a #fjj 7#fab7 #ab4 ,an #hjj 7#haf7 #h 7usually #b_/djj's74 ,a #abjj 7#abbd7 #ab 7usually #b_/fjj's74 ,the knives are placed on the slant so that their edge more readily catches the hook in lifting1 while their under side presses the hooks out of the way when dropping4 ,to place #djh hooks in one row is of course out of the question1 and for compactness they are placed in #ea upright rows of #h's2 this advantage is more apparent in #ahjj hook machines--the largest made4 ,the machine is fixed to a gantree above the loom 7,frontispiece71 and in a single-action jacquard motion1 such as has just been described1 the knife is raised by a lever over the machine1 worked by an upright rod driven by an eccentric or crank on the crank-shaft1 so as to give one lift for every pick4 ,the cylinder is suspended to a batten swinging from the top1 and also worked by connection with the crank-shaft4 ,the movement of the cylinder is to and fro2 as it is moving from the needle board one corner is caught by a latch and the cylinder partially revolves1 bringing another card to face the needles1 against which it is then pressed4 ,the batten type is preferable to the sliding cylinder1 which is only used in sheds where the building renders the sliding cylinder more applicable4 ,the frame work of the batten is more solid and strong4 ,,single ,,and ,,double ,,lift4 ,in the single-lift jacquard1 the knife has to lift as often as the loom picks1 and should a hook require to be raised several picks in succession1 it has to be dropped between each pick and raised again4 ,these defects are obliterated in the double-action jacquard4 ,the machine1 ,fig4 #fd1 has two hooks to each needle1 they being connected at the bottom to one neck cord4 ,two sets of knives are used1 one lifting when the loom picks from the right-hand side1 the other when picking from the left1 thus reducing the speed of the knife one-half2 whilst as the hooks for one pick are being used1 the other knife can be preparing for the next shed1 and when lifting1 keep up any leash several picks in succession1 thus saving time1 and so enabling the production to be increased4 ,the ,fig4 #fd shows a double-action machine with a single cylinder1 #djj hooks and swing batten1 giving at least #ej picks per minute greater speed than a single lift with less vibration and strain4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fc4 ,fig4 #fc shows the different shapes of jacquard needles1 ,a being the ordinary one in plan1 ,b another view of the same1 ,c the double-action one1 and ,d another style of single-action needle4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fd4 ,,double-,,action ,,jacquard1 ,,single ,,cylinder4 ,the speed may still further be increased by having a double-action machine with double cylinders and two sets of needles and hooks 7see ,fig4 #fe74 ,in this system two sets of cards are employed1 all the odd picks on one cylinder and the even ones on the other--thus1 the cylinders only revolve at half the speed1 causing less vibration and giving an increase of #bj picks per minute4 ,if requisite1 this machine can also be arranged as a compound or cross-border machine1 carrying two sets of cards of different patterns1 only one set in use at once1 while1 by pulling a handle1 the other set can be actuated instead1 so as to weave an entirely different pattern in the cloth--e4g41 in the heading of a tablecloth1 shawl1 or handkerchief4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fe4 ,,double-,,action ,,jacquard1 ,,double ,,cylinder4 ,,ties4 ,there are two arrangements of the machine--the ,london arrangement being best1 in which case the cards and card race are at the loom side and in better view4 ,fig4 #fb shows this system4 ,there is1 however1 more strain on the harness1 as the short rows of hooks are at right angles to the short rows in the cumber board1 thus3-- ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ff4 ,in the ,norwich arrangement1 the machine is placed so that the cards come over the head of the weaver or over the beam1 and the short rows of #h in the hooks correspond with the short rows of #h in the cumber board1 and thus the harness is kept straight4 ,the cumber board is a frame containing slips--pieces of wood with holes bored in rows2 in a #djj machine1 rows of #h2 in a #fjj1 rows of #ab4 ,through these the leashes are passed1 and the warp ends almost always drawn in straight draft through the mail eyes4 ,jacquard patterns are generally varied by the lifting only1 and the sole variation corresponding to the draft in stave work is the tie-up4 ,there are three ties-- #a4 ,straight4--,in this each hook has one end only attached to it1 and the tie is as under4 ,the rectangle represents the needle board2 the dots1 the needles2 and the numbers1 the end to which the hook on the needle is attached4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fg4 ,nos4 #a to #h will be in the first row of the cumber board to the left-hand side of the cloth4 #b4 ,a ,lay-over ,tie 7the commonest74--,it is the same thing1 except that two or more patterns are woven in the width of the cloth1 say three4 ,then three ends would be attached to each neck cord1 and in a #djj machine #abjj ends would be used4 ,the cumber board plan would be repeated thrice4 ,for example1 a pattern on #i hooks-- ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fh4 ,fig4 #fb shows a portion of a lay-over tie1 the ends attached to the first row of hooks being in the first row in the cumber board1 and the pattern being completed on #djj ends2 the #dja's1 etc41 are attached to the first1 etc4 #c4 ,a ,centred ,tie4--,when a pattern of #hae ends is in two equal and balanced portions1 the middle end of the cloth is tied to the hook at the right side1 and two ends to every other hook1 the pattern thus being woven on #djh hooks1 e4g4-- ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fi4 ,in harness building or mounting1 considerable ingenuity has to be displayed in keeping the leashes in proper order1 and in knotting the harness to the neck cord so as to produce a small but strong joint4 ,the warp is drawn through the mails after the beam has been slung at the loom4 ,,the ,,shed4 ,a jacquard shed presents a different appearance to a plain loom shed--the large overhead machines darkening the scene4 ,where the weaver is expected to mind four looms1 only about half the looms are jacquarded1 and then only when the simpler styles are woven1 indeed one jacquard out of four looms is considered sufficient for most cloths4 ,in the mills where all the looms are engaged on jacquard cloths1 one weaver cannot attend to four looms4 ,compared with plain goods1 the preparation machinery for jacquard work possesses no peculiarity4 ,the power required to drive is greater1 the weaver's work generally less laborious and more intricate1 the warps weave better as they are sized more lightly1 and also the harness gives way to the shuttle or to any obstruction better than healds2 the highest speed for medium widths is about #bjj in double cylinder--double lift4 ,it is important that no picks be missed2 therefore1 in starting a loom1 the cards must be turned back to their proper position4 ,this is done by reversing motion4 ,,card ,,cutting ,,and ,,repeating4 ,the method of transferring designs to design paper is described on page #ic4 ,after the design has been finished the cards have to be cut4 ,the first set is prepared in a piano card-cutting machine1 the place where the hole has to be made being read from the design--thus1 if for the first pick the #a1 #b1 #i1 #ae1 #ah1 #cj1 #ca1 #cb1 #cc and #dj hooks have to be raised1 holes would be made as under1 looking at the face of the card or the side which is in contact with the needles-- #a #i 4 4 #cc 4 #b 4 #ah 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,numbers 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,the left-hand side here is indicating holes4 4 4 4 4 4 4 the right on the machine4 4 4 4 #cj 4 4 4 #ae 4 #ca 4 4 4 4 4 #cb #dj 4 ,the piano card-cutting machine is shown at ,fig4 #gj4 ,the punches which make the holes in the card are operated by the attendant's feet actuating a treadle1 but the punches are regulated by his finger pressing certain keys and thus causing only those punches to be locked where holes are required4 ,there are only sufficient keys to cut the short row of #h at one stroke4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gj4 ,after one set of cards has been cut from the design1 any number of sets can be made from it on a repeating machine4 ,the original set is placed on a jacquard cylinder and actuates the needles in the ordinary manner1 excepting that the hooks are pushed on the knives by the blanks in the card4 ,these hooks are attached to punches1 and at each stroke of the knives a card is cut1 a duplicate of the original one then on the lantern face4 ,the holes are cut by the punches which are not lifted and which are locked by wedges at each stroke4 ,on this machine cards can be repeated at the rate of #dj per minute4 ,,casting ,,out4 ,in lay-over patterns a number of ends are tied to one hook1 and if the pattern contains as many ends as there are hooks1 or some factor of the number1 it is easy to calculate how many shall be tied4 ,in a warp of #afjj ends in #djj machine1 and #djj ends in the pattern1 four would be tied to each hook4 ,with #ajj ends in the pattern there would be #af ends similar1 which1 however1 would be divided between the four patterns representing the capacity of the machine1 still giving four ends to a hook4 ,we are supposing that any hooks over #djj1 #fjj1 #hjj1 etc41 are use for selvage4 ,however1 suppose there are #fd ends in the pattern1 the machine will weave six patterns and have #af hooks to spare1 which would be cast out-- #f #fd #chd #af #djj4 ,one row of #h would be cast in the middle and another at the end4 ,the #afjj ends1 neglecting selvages1 will give #be complete patterns of #fd ends each in the width of the cloth2 this will give four ends and four patterns to each hook to five sets1 and five patterns or five ends to a hook1 in the sixth set4 ,,jacquard ,,goods4 ,regular cloths vary from small patterns on #bj ends and #bj picks to others with #bjjj ends and picks in a round1 while for exceptional cases these limits are far exceeded4 ,a feature of many jacquard cloths is a figure more or less fanciful on a ground which may be plain1 twill1 satin or oatmeal weave4 ,spots and brilliants are examples of this style4 ,damasks are extensively made4 ,the true damask weave consists of a design of large extent1 woven1 we will suppose1 with weft predominating in the figure1 which may be bound by satin or twill weave4 ,the ground is also in similar weave1 but with warp predominating4 ,thus the cloth is firmly bound at all parts of its surface and is reversible4 ,the damasks woven in cotton do not always fulfil these conditions1 but are in sufficiently similar style to warrant their being classified together4 ,frequently they are made in light goods of about #fj ends and picks per inch for export to ,china and other countries1 or heavier both in yarn and pick with a finer reed for the home trade4 ,these goods are of great variety of pattern and are generally finished before use1 or1 as in the case of furniture and curtain damasks1 dyed4 ,dimity is a cloth of smaller pretensions with regard to figure1 which is arranged in stripe form4 ,the cloth is firmly bound1 and the figure somewhat raised1 which gives it an embossed effect4 ,brocades are jacquard cloths of fine yarns1 the pattern arranged in weft spot on plain ground1 or narrow stripes of spotted figures1 which1 when well finished1 have a charming effect4 ,the brocade is not limited to the longitudinal stripe or figure1 but may be arranged as a brocade check1 while the ground cloth in either case may be of plain weave4 ,a good effect is also produced by arranging this style in diamond figures by introducing honeycomb diagonally4 ,figured canvas gives a pleasing effect when dyed4 ,the figure is woven in plain cloth1 and the work between the figures shows the end cramped together alternately with open spaces1 so as to give an open effect1 on which the figures show to advantage4 ,figured gauze cloths are woven by the jacquard4 ,this industry is carried on to a large extent in the cotton districts of ,scotland4 ,the harness of the machine is arranged with doup leashes passing under the plain ends to the crossing thread1 which is drawn through a mail corresponding to the back stave in heald gauze working4 ,the gauze figures are shown on a plain ground and present the pattern in open work1 caused by the peculiar intertwining of the warp ends indicated in a previous chapter4 ,,counterpanes4 ,the jacquard is largely used in the counterpane and quilt industry1 centred in ,bolton4 ,the ,marseilles and toilet quilts1 with which may be associated the well-known toilet cloths1 are on the double-cloth principle--a good face of plain weave in fine yarns being embossed1 as it were1 by a thick soft weft being woven underneath and attached to the cloth by additional warp threads4 ,this backing weft sometimes floats outside the cloth1 sometimes is bound inside just below the plain face1 and at other parts the whole of the yarn is firmly united4 ,where the backing is brought inside1 the top cloth is raised up2 whilst at those places where all the ends are woven together a depression is caused4 ,large embossed figures may thus be shown on the cloth1 although it appears to have an unbroken surface4 ,a coarser quality is made1 where both face and back wefts are coarse and from the same cop4 ,perched quiltings are in this style1 but the figures are small1 diamond-shaped1 and regular4 ,the honeycomb quilt1 as its name implies1 is a cloth with the figures on its surface formed by raised ridges both warp and weft way4 ,this is generally woven in bleached knitting cottons1 two or three-fold2 and as with this weave others may be combined1 and stripes of coloured worsted inserted1 great scope is given to the designer4 ,a ,grecian quilt is woven in bleached knitting cottons1 and yet the coarse threads give a smooth glossy surface in consequence of the weave being on the damask principle--i4e41 the figure may be formed in a weft satin while the ground is a warp satin4 ,the ,alhambra quilts are figured in various designs and woven with vari-coloured yarns4 ,,woven ,,pile ,,cloths4 ,a class of cloth has now to be referred to which does not usually come under the scope of jacquard work4 ,the velveteen classes of cloth have been described1 in which the pile is cut after the cloth leaves the loom4 ,there is one style of pile cloth1 occasionally woven in cotton1 in which the pile is cut whilst in the loom4 ,two beams are used1 one carrying the warp for the pile1 and the other the warp for the ground cloth in which the pile is bound4 ,a couple of picks of weft are inserted1 and then a wire about one-twentieth of an inch thick1 and of varying depth1 consequent on the length of pile required2 when this wire is beaten up to the fall of the cloth1 the warp is allowed to be slackened1 and it thus forms a loop on the cloth face4 ,two more picks are inserted and another wire1 which is continued4 ,the weaver sometimes draws the wire out--leaving looped cloth--or cuts it out along a groove1 in which case a nap is caused on the cloth face4 ,the best system1 however1 is to employ special looms for the purpose1 which not only insert the wires in the proper shed1 but also draw them out1 and1 as they bear a sharp knife at the farther end1 cut the loops to form pile in doing so4 ,another pile fabric of cotton or linen which has attracted greater attention during the last few years is the ,turkish or ,terry towel4 ,this is woven with two beams1 one for the loop pile1 and the other carrying the ground warp1 which is always kept tight4 ,after two picks have been inserted and tightly beaten up1 the reed is allowed to fly loose by a peculiar arrangement1 and1 both warps being kept tight1 two picks are put in without beating up4 ,then the reed is fastened1 the loop warp slackened1 and on the next pick being beaten up1 the two previous ones are also driven home1 and with them the loop warp which stood between the fell and the two neglected picks1 thus forming loops on both sides of the cloth4 ,this weave is not confined to the making of fabrics with an unbroken pile surface1 but is adopted in stripes for bath towels and wraps1 in checks and even figures for quilts1 combined with colour in other effects1 and also woven alternately in some special cloth with entirely different patterns4 ,the headings also for the towels are of a firmer weave1 and afford great scope for ornamentation4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,drop-,,box ,,looms1 ,,stripes1 ,,checks1 ,,and ,,spotting4 ,in certain classes of cotton fabrics stripes are a leading feature of the cloth1 and are made either in colour or in different counts of yarn1 or reed or pick2 stripes may run length-way of the face as in dhooties1 sarongs1 some shirtings1 regettas1 tape muslin1 ticks1 and many other cloths1 and in these cases the effect is produced simply by warping and reeding the ends in the required order1 often by varying the number of ends in different dents4 ,,stripes ,may run transversely1 and are then formed by coloured or vari-counted yarns1 or a series of spots in colour may be shown on the face of the cloth1 a stripe of extra weft being shown at the back of the cloth and brought through to the face as required4 ,in these cases some system of manipulating extra shuttles carrying the different wefts must be adopted4 ,,checks4 ,the third class with which this chapter more especially deals is the checked cloth--ginghams1 ,oxford and ,harvard shirtings1 tape checks1 satin checks1 etc4 ,these are all formed by combining warp stripes with weft stripes of corresponding colour and extent1 thus forming squares of colour on the fabric4 ,these patterns may be formed in endless variety of colour1 weave1 or length4 ,in ginghams1 the colours used are often four or five in number--say #bj pink ends1 #b black1 #f white1 #b black1 #f white1 #f black1 #f white1 #b black1 #f white1 #b black #eh ends in the warp pattern1 while the picks of weft are in the same colours1 number1 and order4 ,in the larger patterns the number of ends and picks may get into the hundreds4 ,fine counts are often used4 ,in shirtings of heavy material for the home cotton and union material trade1 smaller patterns are commoner1 as they are also in all the 8zephyr0 class of goods--such1 for instance1 as shirting1 warping #ab white #bd's1 #b red #bj's1 #ab white #bd's1 #b blue #bj's2 weft same2 weave1 #d-;end cashmere twill4 ,in white yarns1 satin checks may be made with satin stripes on a plain ground1 the satin ends being 8cramped0 in the reed1 and the picks being inserted in other yarn of special spinning4 ,tape checks are similar1 excepting that the weave is plain all through4 ,these one-colour checks must not be confused with the crossovers and the satin or other checks formed by the same weft1 but heavier in pick at places4 ,handkerchiefs in colour have the appearance of a large check1 but when the coloured headings are far removed it is advisable to change shuttles by hand1 as the chain for the drop box would be too long4 ,some check looms1 however1 carry contrivances for stopping the motion of the chain when the body of the handkerchief1 shawl1 towel1 etc41 is being woven1 this being a very suitable system4 ,in case of changing by hand a measuring motion is attached to the take-up roller to stop the loom at the place for heading4 ,,the ,,drop-,,box ,,loom4 ,for changing the shuttle a drop-box loom is generally employed4 ,in a double drop-box machine six boxes may be used at each side of the loom1 any one of which may be brought into action1 giving a scope of eleven colours of weft4 ,the single drop box is1 however1 more usually employed1 with four or six boxes at one side of the loom1 only giving four or six colours1 but not allowing less than two picks of the same colour to be put in4 ,to insert single picks of colour a double-box loom is used1 and possesses a special pick-and-pick arrangement 7uncommon in the cotton trade7 to admit of its picking twice consecutively from either side of the loom4 ,the number of boxes just mentioned is seldom met with in the cotton trade1 three and four boxes being the usual sizes4 ,the single four-shuttle drop box carries a frame at one end of the slay in which the boxes or shelves rise or fall4 ,these boxes contain the shuttles1 and by suitable regulating motions the boxes may be shifted so as to bring any one shuttle level with the shuttle race and in front of the picker4 ,the spindle is duplicated1 and the couple is placed in front of the box1 not above1 as in a plain over-pick loom4 ,the picker is broad and is without nib1 fixed in a horizontal position1 so as to act on any one of the shuttles which may be placed before it4 ,the principal drop-box regulating motions are ,diggle's chain and ,wright ,shaw's motion4 ,,diggle',s ,,chain ,,motion4 ,diggle's chain is noted for short patterns1 is simple in construction1 and sure in its action4 ,attached to the loom top is a star wheel ,a and barrel ,b revolving on a stud4 ,the barrel carries a chain ,c1 of different sizes of links united by pins2 the star wheel receives its motion through a train of wheels from the crank-shaft1 of which ,d and ,e are connections4 ,the links of the chain support a lever ,f1 connected with another lever ,g at the loom side supporting the drop boxes4 ,for a four-shuttle box the links are of four heights1 the deepest raising the boxes to the highest point1 while the lowest link supports the levers so that the boxes are at the bottom1 with the top shuttle level with the shuttle race4 ,the chain is arranged so that a sufficient number of links of the same height are placed together where several picks of the same colour are required4 ,the shapes of the links are varied to adapt the lifts from or sinking to different boxes--thus1 for a four-box loom twenty different shapes of links may be used to give lifts or depressions from any box of the four to any other2 their arrangement in chain depends on the before-mentioned principle4 ,a plate of links is shown at ,fig4 #gb4 ,they will be seen to be of four different heights4 ,a #dd-;inch loom of this make may run #aej picks per minute4 ,the change of shuttle is made immediately the shuttle enters the box4 ,we are not able to change the shuttle at less intervals than two picks1 but can do so at greater intervals--say1 for example1 once in four picks4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ga4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gb4 ,,wright ,,shaw ,,motion4 ,the motion called1 after its inventor1 the ,wright ,shaw motion is perhaps more suitable to cotton goods4 ,indeed1 in ,manchester1 near to which city it was invented and is manufactured1 it finds much favour in the check trade4 ,a greatly improved motion has been recently introduced by ,mr4 ,wright ,shaw1 but as the older form is in commoner use1 we will refer to the latter4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gc4 ,fig4 #gc shows a sketch of this machine1 in which the parts will be clearly seen4 ,it is the make of ,messrs4 ,henry ,livesey1 ,limited1 of ,blackburn1 but is on the ,wright ,shaw principle improved4 ,the shuttle box is supported and moved by a rack and pinion2 this pinion shaft is actuated by a forked rack supported on a pivot at the end of a lever1 so as to gear with either side of another wheel on the pinion shaft4 ,the lever is driven by a cam1 and raises and lowers the fork4 ,the pattern chain consists of iron plates which are thin and narrow1 thus enabling a longer pattern to be obtained than is possible by the previously described motion4 ,these plates are linked together by elastic bands1 and each contains two peg holes1 and also one1 two1 or three larger holes to correspond with the points of the three-pattern chain needles4 ,the pattern chain passes round a square block perforated to correspond with the needles1 and driven at the speed of a quarter of a revolution for each two picks4 ,the pegs on it carry the pattern plates round with the block4 ,the needles are arranged horizontally1 points facing pattern block4 ,the outer needles regulate whether the right or left leg of the fork shall be in contact with the wheel on pinion shaft1 to determine whether the reciprocation shall be upwards or downwards4 ,a hole in either one side or the other of the plate regulates this2 should both sides be perforated1 the fork remains in its previous position4 ,the fork is raised and depressed by a lever1 actuated by one of two cams--one to move the boxes one shelf1 and the other to skip a shelf1 thus moving two boxes4 ,these cams are changeable1 and operate on one end of the lever1 while the fork is suspended to the other end4 ,the central needle decides which shall be in action1 as it carries a projection which1 when pushed back1 thrusts the larger sweep cam into action4 ,it is easy1 therefore1 to understand the action of these cards2 three holes give no movement2 two holes1 with a blank at one side1 put the fork into gear with the corresponding side of the pinion wheel2 and in the case of two blanks1 the one in the centre puts two-box stroke in action1 and the side blank puts the fork in gear at one side4 ,one blank at the right side causes a rise1 or1 at the left side1 a fall4 ,the five forms of plate are3-- ,illustration3 ,no change4 ,rise one4 ,fall one4 ,rise two4 ,fall two4 ,rising one means that the box is risen to the next shelf2 rising two is risen to the next shelf but one1 skipping one4 ,this style of drop box can be driven at the speed of #agj picks per minute4 ,generally1 a weaver attends to three of these looms1 and an overlooker to from #ej to #fj4 ,for the check shirting trade looms to weave from #cj-;inch to #cg-;inch cloth are used4 ,,other ,,motions4 ,an ingenious drop-box motion is manufactured by a ,burnley firm1 by which the weight of supporting the boxes1 etc41 is altogether removed from the pattern chain1 which is consequently made of less cumbrous construction4 ,other firms claim decided advantages in respect of a greater skip than either ,diggle's or ,wright ,shaw's motions--e4g41 from the first to the sixth box4 ,skips of this extent are obtained principally by using several eccentric cams4 ,one of these may lift a single box1 a second may raise the boxes two spaces1 and their effect in combination is a lift of three shuttles1 and so on for greater effects4 ,,circular ,,boxes4 ,circular boxes are seldom used for cotton goods4 ,in this arrangement the shuttles are fixed in grooves formed in a block revolving at the slay end1 and drawn round in either direction by hooks1 one being placed at each side of the revolving barrel4 ,the movement of the hooks is regulated by a pattern chain4 ,the speed is about the same as a ,wright ,shaw motion4 ,,general4 ,any of these types of boxes may be used with the over-pick1 and either with tappets1 dobby1 or jacquard shedding4 ,attempts have recently been made to apply the drop-box principle to a system of replenishing the loom with three or four cops of weft without a stoppage1 by having them previously placed in the shelves and lowered on the breakage or running-off of the previous weft4 ,,coloured ,,spots4 ,additional colour is introduced into cotton fabrics in spots and figures after the manner of embroidery1 by using circle swivels or lappets4 ,if a series of small spots in colour are required to be made1 by using a drop-box loom with a jacquard or dobby the object is easily attained1 but it necessitates the cutting away of much of the coloured yarn which has been picked across the cloth1 and only a portion of which is required for the figure4 ,now1 by using extra twist or weft1 and only interweaving as much as is required for the figure alone1 much waste can be prevented1 and a firmer spot obtained4 ,take1 for example1 the spotted muslin so frequently used for window curtains2 each figure only consists of a few inches of coarse yarn so loosely passed through the ground cloth1 and apparently so entirely independent of the other spots1 that a tyro can form no other explanation of their appearance there than that they have been sewn on4 ,,circle ,,weaving4 ,circle weaving has been used in these cases4 ,in addition to the ground weft1 which is carried across the cloth in the ordinary shuttle1 there is a frame above the shed of the warp carrying several circular1 or rather horseshoe-shaped attachments with a small bobbin of weft pivoted at the upper part 7farthest from the opening in the ring74 ,these rings are driven round by gearing with a rack4 ,when the figure has to be formed by the weft passing round1 say #bj ends1 these are raised above the level of the top of the ordinary shed1 inside the ring1 which then makes one complete revolution1 and the ends are depressed4 ,maybe a plain pick or two is then inserted1 and afterwards more spotting1 until the desired figure is embroidered on the muslin1 when plain weaving is resumed for a few inches4 ,,lappets4 ,in lappet weaving1 extra bobbins of warp are placed below the loom1 and the ends from them carried to a set of upright needles1 which slide in a groove immediately in front of the end1 a false reed being arranged for the guidance of the shuttle4 ,the needles are regulated by a cam1 and1 with their point projecting1 raise the thread into the shed1 so that it may be bound into the cloth by the weft2 after which the needles are removed the distance of a few threads1 and again raise the coloured end1 so that it may be bound into the cloth4 ,the cam causes the needles to be slid to and fro in this manner until a figure is formed as desired4 ,by this latter method the colour in the figure largely predominates on one side of the cloth1 that which is the under side in the loom4 ,the upper side merely shows the outline of the figure where the thread has passed through to be bound4 ,in the circle swivel figures the weft usually shows equally on both sides4 ,illustration3 ,decoration ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,mill ,,calculations--,,yarn ,,counts1 ,,reeds1 ,,healds1 ,,cost ,,of ,,cloth1 ,,warping ,,and ,,sizing ,,lengths1 ,,wages1 ,,speeds1 ,,engines4 ,it is desirable that the calculations connected with cotton manufacturing in all its bearings be treated in a separate chapter4 ,this is not only necessary from their number1 but from their great variety and difficulty of classification under different chapter headings1 inasmuch as many are applicable to more than one process4 ,,yarn ,,calculations4 ,the fineness of cotton yarn is indicated by the counts 7otherwise numbers or grist74 ,the counts refer to the number of hanks in a pound 7avoirdupois74 ,the cotton hank is always #hdj yards2 and1 therefore1 if we speak of #aj's1 we refer to yarn of which #aj hanks or #hdjj yards weigh one pound2 or in referring to #cf's1 of that which #cf #hdj or #cj1bdj yards weigh one pound4 ,this applies to either twist or weft4 ,the cotton yarn measure is-- #abj yards #a lea4 #g leas or #hdj yards #a hank4 and the cotton yarn weight is peculiar1 being an avoirdupois pound divided into pennyweights and ounces as in the troy weight4 #bd grains #a pennyweight4 #dcg-a_/b grains #ah-aa_/dh pennyweights #a ounce4 #gjjj grains #af ounces #a lb4 ,,wrapping4 #a's are taken as the standard with #hdj yards in #gjjj grains1 and a higher count means finer yarn2 then #hdj yards of1 say #b's1 would weigh #cejj grains1 or of #gj's1 would weigh #ajj grains4 ,if we measure a hank of yarn1 and find that it weighs #ajj grains1 then #gjjj1 divided by #ajj1 gives the counts4 ,it is inconvenient in wrapping yarn to measure #hdj yards1 therefore a lea of #abj yards is taken as the standard length for #a's1 and also the proportionate weight #ajjj grains4 ,instead of taking #hdj yards and #gjjj grains it is usual1 then1 to take #abj yards and #ajjj grains4 ,a wrap reel is #a-a_/b yards in circumference1 and1 by revolving it #hj times1 we can wind #abj yards from a cop placed in the machine4 ,suppose this lea of #abj yards weighs #be grains1 then #ajjjj_/be #dj's4 ,should less than a lea be taken1 say #fj yards1 then #ejj grains must be the dividend4 ,generally1 however1 to obtain the counts of any yarn1 #abj yards are weighed1 and the weight1 in grains1 divided into #ajjj4 ,having the ,length and ,counts given1 to find the ,weight4--#ibdj yards of #dd's weft #ibdj yards #hdj #aa hanks4 ,in the given counts #dd hanks weigh #a lb41 then #aa hanks weigh #aa_/dd or #a_/d of a lb4 ,counts of ,silk1 ,worsted1 ,linen4--,single silk is counted same as cotton1 except that in two-fold patent silk the actual wrapping is given--say1 #cj's_/#b in silk will wrap #cj's4 ,in cotton1 #b_/cj's would wrap #ae's4 ,the worsted hank is #efj yards4 ,the linen 8lea0 is #cjj yards4 ,the ,french cotton standard is #ajjj metres in #ejj grammes--equivalent to #iibd yards in #a lb4 ,thus1 #aaha's in ,english would be #a's in ,french4 ,to transfer cotton measure to any other take the cotton count1 proportion it inversely to the number of yards in the hanks1 say-- #bj's cotton equals #cj's worsted1 7#bj #hdj7_/efj #cj's #bj's cotton equals #ef's linen1 #cjj 3 #hdj 33 #bj's 3 #ef's4 #bj's cotton equals #bj's silk4 #bj's ,english equals #afic's ,french4 #aah 3 #a 33 #bj's 3 x x 7#a #bj7_/aaha #afic ,double ,yarns 7,cotton74--,two-fold yarns are numbered according to the single yarn counts--thus1 #b_/hj's two ends of #hj's twined together1 which would wrap #dj's4 ,actually1 to make the resultant count #dj's1 the single yarn should be finer than #hj's1 because the twist put in the folded yarn contracts it in length and causes the two-fold to be really coarser than would appear4 ,however1 neglecting this1 suppose we twine one end of #dj's and one of #bj's1 the counts would not be #ae's1 as a first glance would indicate1 but #accc4 ,this can be proved by taking the weight of a lea of #dj #be grains1 and of #bj's #ej grains2 total1 #ge4 #ge divided into #ajjj gives the counts as #ac-a_/c4 ,another rule is1 multiply the two counts and divide by their sum-- 7#dj #bj7_/7dj #bj7 #hjj_/fj #ac-a_/c #c_/cjj's #ajj's4 #c-;fold yarn of #dj's1 #hj's1 and #abj's would be #baha4 ,a lea of #dj's #be grains4 ,a lea of #hj's #ab-a_/b ,a lea of #abj's #h-a_/h ------ #de-e_/f #ajjj_/7de-e_/f7 #baha ,or take the highest count and divide it by each of the others and by itself1 then divide the total of the quotients into the highest-- #abj #hj #a-a_/b #abj #dj #c #abj #abj #a ----- #e-a_/b #abj_/e-a_/b #baha ,,testing ,,yarns4 ,in addition to wrapping warp yarn to ascertain actual counts1 it is frequently tested as to strength2 the lea from the reel is placed between two hooks on a testing machine1 and by a wheel worm and screw the lower hook is moved downwards1 increasing the tension on the yarn4 ,by an index finger this tension is indicated on a face plate1 and when the lea is broken the finger stops at the highest weight or strain that the yarn has stood4 ,below is a table1 which will give a general idea of the comparative strength of mule twists1 having1 for the ,american cotton1 the standard turns in--i4e41 square root of counts multiplied by #c-c_/d4 #bj's ,american ,cotton #hjlb4 #cj's #edlb4 #dj's #djlb4 ,egyptian #ejlb4 #ej's ,american #bhlb4 ,egyptian #cglb4 #fj's #cjlb4 #gj's #bflb4 ,in yarn the diameters of the threads do not vary inversely as the counts1 but inversely as the square root of the counts4 ,thus1 #af's is not four times as thick as #fd's1 but twice as thick1 the square roots being four and eight respectively4 ,,reed ,,counting4 ,before entering into the calculations regarding the weight of cloth1 it is necessary to familiarise ourselves with some method of counting the ends of warp in the cloth4 ,on the ,exchange the system adopted both for ends and pick is their number per quarter inch--e4g41 a #af by #ad means #af ends per #a_/d-;inch1 or #ad picks per quarter4 ,the methods used in the manufactory are based on the counts of reed4 ,formerly many systems of reed counts prevailed1 each town or district having a method peculiar to itself2 thus1 ,blackburn counts1 ,preston counts and many others were at one time adhered to in their respective districts1 but have now fallen into disuse1 and almost been forgotten4 ,the ,stockport counts is commonest in ,lancashire1 and is based on the number of dents or splits of the reed in two inches1 and as cloth is generally wrought two ends on a dent1 this system is often taken as the number of ends in one inch4 ,it is in use in almost every ,lancashire manufacturing district1 being adopted in consequence of its simplicity and suitability for calculation purposes4 ,the ,bolton counts is still used in some mills in that town and also in ,bury and some few other districts4 ,it is based on the number of beers in #bd-a_/d inches--a beer comprising #bj dents4 ,a ,stockport #dj's reed would have #dhe dents on #bd-a_/d inches1 or #bd-a_/d beers ,bolton4 ,a ,bolton #bd-a_/d reed is then equal to a ,stockport #dj's4 ,to find the number of splits per inch in a reed having ,bolton counts given1 multiply those counts by #hbdi1 or vice vers4 ,this rule shows the number of dents and decimal parts2 #hbde is more often taken1 but it gives the number with less exactitude4 ,the fraction is only taken to two places of decimals1 showing thus the #ajjth parts of dents--e4g41 a #cjj ,bolton has #bd-gd_/ajj splits per inch 7#hbdi #cj #bdgdg74 ,to convert ,stockport into ,bolton counts multiply by #fjfbe4 ,to convert ,bolton into ,stockport multiply by #afdie4 ,this rule gives the number of ends per inch in ,bolton counts1 supposing the cloth to be wrought two ends in a dent4 ,the ,scotch systems are to take the number of dents or splits in the old ,scotch ell1 #cg inches1 or by the number of porters on the same length4 ,the ,scotch porter is equal to the ,lancashire beer--#bj splits4 ,in the first system1 the splits per ell are expressed in hundreds--thus1 #agjj indicates #agjj splits on #cg inches1 almost equal to a #ib reed1 ,stockport2 or a #df on the ,scotch inch scale1 which is the number of splits in one inch1 and corresponding to the old ,radcliffe and ,pilkington method in ,lancashire4 ,by the porter system1 a #dj-porter reed would give #dj #bj dents #hjj on #cg inches1 equal to a #dc reed1 ,stockport1 ,in ,scotland 7as in ,lancashire7 the old complicated systems show a tendency to give way in favour of the simpler systems of counting the dents or ends in one inch4 ,in the reed table given below1 the first row of figures shows the proportion which these reeds bear to one another1 and the lower rows indicate the fineness of the different systems for #cc and #dj splits per inch respectively--the calculation results being given1 which same might not frequently appear in practice-- ,the ,inch ,stockport ,bolton ,scotch4 ,scotch ,scale4 ,dents ,beers #ajj ends ,porter4 ,dents per on on on ,porters on ,inch4 #b ,inches4 #bd-a_/d ,inches4 #cg ,inches4 #cg ,inches4 #a #b #ababe #jcg #ahe #cc #ff #dj #abbj #fa #dj #hj #dhe #adhj #gd ,,healds4 ,in ,stockport counts four healds are considered as a set1 and having one thread through each eye are dubbed of similar counts to the reed--e4g41 a #fj's set of healds has #ae stitches per inch in each set1 equalling #fj ends per inch in the reed1 which is a #fj's reed1 ,stockport4 ,in spaced healds some are knitted finer than others and consequently numbered differently4 ,in this point draft3-- #e #e #d #d #d #d #c #c #c #b #b #a twelve ends are drawn on five healds1 one end on the #ast heald1 two on the #bnd1 three on the #crd1 four on the #dth1 and two on the #eth4 ,four different degrees of fineness are required in the five heald staves1 and the above draft is given to the knitter with instructions for so many patterns to the inch4 ,say five patterns per inch3 #e #ab would give a #fj reed1 and the number of stitches per inch would be respectively #e1 #aj1 #ae1 #bj and #aj--the front one being equal to a ,stockport #bj's1 for if there were four similar to it in a set1 the number of ends would be #bj4 ,similarly the second stave equals a ,stockport #dj's1 the third #fj's1 the fourth #hj's1 and the fifth same as the second1 a #dj's4 ,to prove this1 the requisite set of five staves might be obtained by taking one stave out of a plain #bj's set1 two staves of a plain #dj's1 one stave from a #fj's1 and one from an #hj's set4 ,,weight ,,of ,a ,,piece4 ,in calculating the weight of a piece1 the warp weight is obtained from the number of ends1 based upon the width in the reed4 ,this is multiplied by the sizing length and brought into hanks1 from which the weight can be obtained by dividing by the counts4 ,the weft is calculated from the picks to the inch1 the reed width1 and the actual length of piece4 ,example--,a piece has to be made full dimensions1 #cf inches wide1 #cf yards long1 #af square 7#a_/d inch7--i4e41 #fd ends per inch and #fd picks2 yarns #cj's_/#cf's1 the first number being the warp1 sized #be per cent4 ,in the reed it would stand #ch inches1 about six per cent4 being allowed for contraction4 ,of course1 if the yarn were coarser1 the pick heavier1 and the reed finer1 more than this would be allowed4 ,supposing that a #fj's reed 7,stockport7 is used1 the number of ends would be #ch #fj #bbhj2 the length of warp1 say #ch yards1 allowing six per cent4--then 7#bbhj #ch7_/hdj #ajc-a_/g hanks1 ,divided by #cj's gives #clb4 #goz4 ,weft4--,the weft1 #cg-a_/b inches wide1 #fd picks2 length of piece1 #cf yards4 7#cg-a_/b #fd x #cf7_/7hdj #cf's7 #blb4 #ac-c_/doz4 #cg-a_/b #fd gives the number of inches of weft in one inch of cloth1 or1 what is the same1 yards of weft in one yard of cloth4 ,size4-- #clb4 #goz4 #eeoz4 #be per cent4 on #ee #ee #be #ajj #ac-c_/doz4 ,the weight of the piece is then-- ,twist #c 3 #g ,size #ac-c_/d ----------------------- #d 3 #d-c_/d ,weft #b 3 #ac-c_/d ---------- #g 3 #b-a_/b ,when the piece is measured by the long stick1 about half an inch more to the yard must be reckoned--e4g41 #ch-;inch3 #ad_/ad1 #cg-a_/b yards ,l4,s41 #ch's weft1 to be #h-a_/dlb4 in weight2 this would be perhaps #ch-a_/d yards long ,s4,s4 ,weft4-- 7#dj #ef #ch-a_/d7_/7hdj #ch7 #b 3 #aj-c_/d ,leaving #e3 #i-a_/d for twist and size1 say of the latter #ajj per cent41 then #b3 #ab-a_/b would be twist-- 7#dj #eb #da7_/hdj #aja-a_/b hanks required to be found in #b3 #ab-a_/b of yarn2 then if #b3 #ab-a_/b #aja-a_/b hank33 #alb4 equals #cf's twist about4 ,this cloth would then be composed of-- ,warp #b 3 #ab-a_/d ,size #b 3 #ac ,weft #b 3 #aj-c_/d ---------- #h 3 #d ,for quoting purposes the weight of the yarn is taken at the market price1 say that of the cloth ,no4 #a-- lb4 oz4 #c #g of #cj's ,t at #h;d4 #b 3 #c-a_/b #b #ac-c_/d of #cf's ,w at #h;d4 #a 3 #aa ,weaving ,price #i-a_/b ,to this is added a sum sufficient to cover cost--winding1 warping1 sizing1 power1 miscellaneous expenses1 waste 7which sum varies considerably1 and depends mainly upon the situation of the producers as regards the amount at which he can produce this cloth74 ,often1 for lightly-sized goods1 the weaving price is doubled1 making this piece cost #es4 #i-a_/b;d4 ,should it be a dhootie1 then an addition is made for coloured yarns for heading and border1 and if a figured cloth extras are included for increased cost of production4 ,the examples given are supposititious ones1 for1 as has been said1 the exact details of weight and quoting prices are decided purely by local or temporary position1 and fixed data cannot be given as a standard for every case4 ,,stripe ,,patterns4 ,in case of stripes with two counts of warp yarn1 for example1 the number of ends of each must be obtained4 ,if there are #ch stripes each of #ae ends1 #dj's twist1 with a ground cloth between each of #de ends warp1 #fj's ,t1 separate calculations for each must be made4 #ch #ae #egj stripe ends4 #ch #de #agaj ground ends4 ,,altering4 ,when the pick or reed is altered1 the weight of the weft or warp is altered in proportion2 when the length or width is altered1 the weight of the piece is altered in proportion2 when the counts of yarn are altered1 the weight alters inversely proportionately4 ,,other ,,reeds4 ,although the #a_/d-;inch scale is mostly used for calculating warps in ,lancashire1 we give an example of a calculation with the ,bolton reed4 ,to get the number of ends1 multiply the reed counts by the width of your warp in the reed1 and by #afdie--thus1 ,bolton #cf's1 #ci inches in the reed1 would give #bbch ends4 ,the calculation is then proceeded with in the ordinary manner4 ,in the ,scotch ell standard system1 the dimensions of the cloth before-mentioned would be #cf inches wide1 #cf yards long1 #aajj reed1 #aa-a_/b shots to the glass1 yarns #cj's_/#cf's4 ,to calculate the weight of warp1 add six per cent4 to the #cf inches1 making it #ch inches wide in the reed4 ,if there are #aajj splits on #cg inches1 then the number on #ch inches will be proportional4 7#aajj #ch7_/cg #aacj4 ,multiply by #b1 as it is always understood that there are two ends in a split1 and we get #bbfj ends4 ,the calculation is then continued in the usual way4 7#bbfj #ch7_/7hdj #cj7 #cdjglb4 ,weft4---- ,the meaning of shots on the glass refers to a counting glass used in ,glasgow district1 one two-hundredth part of a yard in width2 #aa-a_/b shots will then give #aa-a_/b #bjj #bcjj picks in a yard4 7#bcjj #cg-a_/b inches wide7_/7#cf's #cf inches to the yard #hdj7 #bhelb4 ,if required to be left in hank1 omit to divide by the counts in each case4 ,in other materials1 the length of the hank varies1 and1 in the case of single worsted1 we should have divided in the previous calculations by #efj instead of #hdj1 in linen by #cjj1 or in single silk by #hdj4 ,,warping ,,and ,,sizing ,,calculations4 ,in getting an order passed through a weaving shed the first point1 after calculating the particulars for each piece or cut1 is to get the length for warping and sizing4 ,in the case of an order for #cgej pieces of the before-mentioned dimensions1 the total length of warp is calculated thus--#ch yards for one piece #cgej #adb1ejj yards1 allowing nothing for waste in length1 as the tension on the yarn in process will stretch it sufficiently to allow for that1 and perhaps a little more4 ,at the warping mill the length is taken in wraps of #cefd yards1 subdivided into teeth of #bg yards4 ,in this case1 four wraps or #ad1bef yards would be taken to a set of back beams2 therefore1 this order would be run in ten separate sets4 ,the number of back beams for the sizing machine is proportioned to the capacity of the warping mill--say five beams1 the length on each beam must be #ad1bef yards1 and the total number of ends on the beams equal to the ends in the piece--say #e at #def each #bbhj4 ,to ,calculate the ,counts of ,yarn after ,warping4--,divide the length by the weight and #hdj4 ,a beam weighs #cjalb41 carrying #ejd ends1 each #ad1bef yards long-- 7#ad1bef #ejd7_/7cja #hdj7 #bhda's4 ,having #cge pieces to make from the set of beams1 which will probably weigh about #acjjlb4 for #cj's twist1 to this add #be per cent4 for size 7#acjj #cbe7_/ajj #cbe #acjj ---- #afbe ,divide by #cge7 #aejj 7#dlb4 #eoz4 ---- #abe #af ---- #bjjj #dlb4 #eoz4 being about the size required 7vide page #aej74 ,actual ,size4--,to find the size actually put on the yarn1 subtract the weight of the unsized yarn less waste from the sized yarn--e4g41 #afci ,actual sized weight4 #acjj ---- #cci ,weight of size4 #acjj7 #ccijj 7#bfjg per cent4 actual4 #bfjj ---- #gijj #ghjj ---- #ajj ,counts after ,sizing4-- 7#adbef #bbhj7 _/ 7#afci #hdj7 #bcfa's ,to ,calculate the ,percentage of ,waste4--,multiply the waste made by #ajj and divide by the weight of yarn used4 ,if eleven skips of twist1 weighing #cahilb41 make #cclb4 of waste-- #cahi 7 #ccjj 7 #ajcd per cent4 #cahi ------ #aaajj #iefg ------ #aeccj ,,wages--,,standard ,,lists4 ,in those towns where a uniform class of goods is made of simple weave1 it is possible to formulate and adhere to a standard method of payment such as is done in ,burnley1 ,blackburn1 and other towns4 ,in other districts1 such as ,bolton and ,preston1 the sorts are so varied and difficult to classify that at many mills a private list is adhered to with satisfaction to the employer and employed4 ,for the benefit of some readers a typical calculation will be given1 based on the #ahec ,blackburn list1 as in #ahhc this list was adopted in ,preston1 ,chorley1 and other towns4 ,this may be considered a list of medium position with regard to other lists--,burnley being lower for plains1 ,ashton list being considered a low one for fancies4 ,the ,blackburn list is based on a #dj-;inch loom1 weaving from #cf to #da-;inch cloth1 #fj reed ,stockport counts1 #af picks per #a_/d inch1 #cg-a_/b yards1 from #cj's to #fj's weft1 and from #bh's to #de's twist1 for #abbe;d4 ,reeds4--,a #fj reed or #cj dents1 being the standard1 is made the starting point1 and #c_/d per cent4 is deducted for every two ends or counts of reeds1 from #fj to #dh2 but no deduction is made below #dh reed1 and #c_/d per cent4 is added for every two ends or counts of reed above #fj4 ,weft4--,all weft from #cj's to #fj's1 both included1 is considered medium1 and reckoned equal1 but all weft above #fj's to be allowed #a per cent4 for every #aj hanks1 and all below #cj's to #bf's to be allowed #b per cent4 on list4 #bf's to #bj's #e #bj's to #af's #h #af's to #ad's #aj ,twist4--,all twist from #bh's to #de's1 both included1 is considered medium1 and reckoned equal1 but all twist above #de's up to #fj's to be allowed #a-a_/b per cent41 and all above #fj's #a per cent4 for each #aj hanks1 and all below #bh's to #bj's to be allowed #a per cent4 on list4 #bj's to #ad's #b ,additions for ,picks4--,all picks above #h and up to #ah are considered proportionate1 but #h picks and all below and all above #ah1 to have #a per cent4 allowed for every pick over and above the proportionate difference in the number of picks4 ,width of ,looms4--,a #dj-;inch loom being the standard1 is taken as the starting point1 and all additions or deductions are made therefrom4 7,the reed space is measured from back board to forkgrate47 #be-;inch loom has #b-a_/b per cent4 deducted from #cj-;inch loom4 #cj-;inch #e #ce-;inch #ce-;inch #e #dj-;inch #dj-;inch loom 7#de-;inch reed space7 the standard-- #de-;inch loom has #e per cent4 added to #dj-;inch loom4 #ej-;inch #aj #de-;inch #ee-;inch #aj #ej-;inch #fj-;inch #aj #ee-;inch ,looms of ,intermediate ,width4--,one per cent4 per inch is to be deducted from #dj down to #cj-;inch loom2 below #cj to #bf-;inch loom #e_/h per cent4 per inch to be deducted4 ,above #dj-;inch and up to #de-;inch loom1 #a per cent4 per inch to be added1 and all above #de-;inch #b per cent4 per inch4 ,narrow ,cloth in ,broad ,looms4--,suppose a #dj-;inch loom should be weaving cloth #cf to #ca-a_/d inches in width1 take off one-half the difference between #dj and #ce-;inch loom price2 and if weaving cloth #ca to #bg-a_/d inches wide1 take off one-half the difference between #dj and #cj-;inch loom price2 or if weaving #da-a_/d to #df-;inch cloth in a #ej-;inch loom1 take off one-half the difference between #ej and #de-;inch loom1 and so on with all other widths4 ,range of ,cloths4-- #bf-;inch loom allowed to weave cloth up to #bg inches4 #ce-;inch from #ca to #cf inches4 #dj-;inch #cf to #da #de-;inch #da to #df #ej-;inch #df to #eb ,basis of ,calculations4--,the calculations in the ,blackburn list are based upon the picks counted by the glass when the cloth is laid upon the counter4 ,forty yards short stick to be taken as #ci yards long stick4 ,to find price for a #dd-;inch cloth in #de-;inch loom #ff's reed1 #dd change pinion1 #ebh dividend1 #ge yards long1 #cd's_/#cf's-- #abbe ,standard4 ,add #e per cent4 loom #fa ----- #abhf ,add #b-a_/d per cent4 reed #bh ----- #acad ,calculate in proportion to pick #af to #ab #ihf ,calculate proportion length #cg-a_/b to #ge #aigb ,list price4 ,double ,deduct #aj per cent4 #aig ----- #aggh ,present price4 or from list under heading1 #de-;inch loom-- #ff reed1 #cg-a_/b yards #hbb for #a pick4 #ihf for #ab picks4 #aigb for #ge yards4 ,,speeds ,,of ,,shafts1 ,,etc4 ,in calculating the speed of a shaft driven from another by pulleys or gearing1 multiply the speed of the first shaft by the driving pulley or wheel1 and divide by the driven one4 ,a shaft makes #ajj revolutions per minute and carries a #dj-;inch drum driving a #af-;inch pulley on another shaft2 the speed of the second shaft would be #bej1 thus3-- 7#ajj #dj7_/af #bej4 ,the same rule and calculation would apply if the first shaft had carried a #dj-teeth cog-wheel1 and the second a #af-teeth wheel4 ,in taking the dimensions of a pulley for calculations the diameter is often taken2 it does not matter1 though1 if the circumference be taken1 but care must be exercised in taking the same dimension for the driven as is taken for the driver4 ,if the diameter is taken of one1 the diameter must be taken of the other4 ,to get ,speed of ,loom from ,engine4--,multiply the engine speed by all the driving pulleys1 and divide by the driven ones4 ,if the engine make #df strokes per minute1 spur-wheel #aje teeth1 second motion pinion #eb teeth2 also on same a #eb driving a #di on line shaft in shed4 ,pulley on line shaft on which is a #ae-;inch drum driving a loom pulley on the crank-shaft of #h inches4 ,the driving and driven pulleys are always alternate2 then as the first must be a driver-- 7#df #aje #eb #ae7_/7eb #di #h7 #ahe nearly4 ,the answer gives the calculated picks per minute4 ,about #d per cent4 must1 however1 be allowed for slippage1 reducing the #ahe to an actual speed of about #agg4 ,to find the ,size of ,pulley for any required ,speed4--,find the ratio of the given speed and arrange size of pulley accordingly4 ,suppose a shaft running at #ajj revolutions per minute has to drive a loom-shaft at a speed of #ahj picks per minute the ratio of speed is as #ajj to #ahj or as #e to #i2 arrange the pulleys in this proportion--say #aj inches and #ah inches1 the larger pulley being on the driving shaft4 ,to alter ,speeds4--,calculate in proportion to the alteration4 ,if a twill-shaft is driven by a #cj-;cog wheel1 and revolves at a speed of #de revolutions per minute for a #d-leaf twill1 and it is desirable to change this to a #c-leaf twill with the twill-shaft at #fj revolutions per minute1 then1 as #de is to #fj1 so #cj3 x-- x 7#fj #cj7_/de #dj ,a #dj wheel must now drive the wheel on the twill-shaft1 and the speed will be increased one-third more4 ,,engines4 ,the strength of a steam engine is indicated in horse-powers4 ,a horse-power is taken as the capacity of performing #cc1jjj foot-pounds of work in one minute2 lifting #ccjjlb4 #aj feet high1 or #ajlb4 #ccjj feet high would be #cc1jjj foot-pounds of work4 ,to obtain the ,indicated ,horse-power--the most usual ,standard4--,a diagram is taken from the engine by a small apparatus1 and this diagram1 when measured and averaged at different points of its length1 gives the mean pressure of steam in the cylinder4 ,multiply this by the speed of the piston1 by the area of the piston1 and divide by #cc1jjj1 and the ,i4,h4,p4 is to hand4 #ciha average pressure per square inch1 area of piston #djj square inches1 length of stroke #e-a_/b feet1 strokes per minute #dj 7or #aa feet both ways7-- 7#ciha #djj #aa #dj7_/cc1jjj #babcb ,i4,h4,p4 ,nominal horse-power 7condensing7 area of piston divided by #bb2 ditto high pressure area of piston divided by #aa4 #b-a_/b to #c looms1 with preparation1 are reckoned to #a indicated horse-power4 ,coal4--,a good quality of coal should evaporate #hlb4 of water for each #alb4 burnt1 and for a manufacturing concern 7including sizing1 which takes a great amount of steam7 the consumption of coal should be about #c-a_/dlb4 per ,i4,h4,p4 per hour4 ,thus #fjj horse-power should use about #bd tons per week2 excluding sizing1 #b-c_/dlb4 would suffice4 ,to find the ,circumference of a ,circle4--,multiply the diameter by #cadaf or 7roughly7 by #c-a_/g4 ,to find the ,area of a ,circular ,space4--,square the diameter and multiply by #ghed4 ,to find the ,cubical ,contents of a ,rectangular ,block4--,multiply the depth1 length and breadth together4 ,illustration ,,city ,,and ,,guilds ,,of ,,london ,,institute ,,for ,,the ,,advancement ,,of ,,technical ,,education4 ,,technological ,,examinations4 #ai;,b4--,,cotton ,,manufacture4 ,,section ,i4--,,cotton ,,spinning4 ,i4 ,syllabus4--,the ,examination will include questions founded on such subjects as the following3-- #a4 ,the geographical position of the world's cotton fields1 and suitable regions to which it may be introduced4 #b4 ,cotton cultivation and the various causes of damage to the fibre during growing and picking seasons1 with the dates of planting and picking in all cotton-growing countries4 #c4 ,the mode of preparing the raw material1 cotton gins1 ginning1 packing1 c4 ,means and methods of adulteration4 #d4 ,commercial handling of the raw material up to the spinning mill4 #e4 ,the nature and properties of the various kinds of raw material--,sea ,island1 ,queensland1 ,fiji1 ,egyptian1 ,new ,orleans1 ,uplands1 ,boweds1 ,dollerah1 ,hinghinghat1 ,surat1 ,brazilian1 c4 #f4 ,the selection of1 and advisability1 or otherwise1 of mixing various cottons with a view to the full utilization of every kind4 #g4 ,the development of and the principles involved in the construction of the several machines used in cotton spinning4 #h4 ,cleaning cotton by opening1 scrutching1 carding and combing machines4 #i4 ,processes of attaining a parallel arrangement of fibres by carding1 and the attenuation of the sliver through drawing1 slubbing1 intermediate and finishing roving frames4 #aj4 ,spinning operations upon the throstle1 mule1 and ring frames4 #aa4 ,the doubling of single yarns for lace1 hosiery1 sewing thread1 and kindred purposes4 #ab4 ,warping and bundling for the home trade and export1 with the accompanying processes of winding and reeling4 #ac4 ,packing and commercial dealing with yarns in the process of distribution4 99 99 99 99 99 ,in the ,honours ,examination more difficult questions in the above subjects will be set than in the ,ordinary ,grade4 ,,ii4 ,full ,technological ,certificate4--,the candidate1 who is not otherwise qualified 7see ,regulations #cc and #cd71 will be required1 for the full ,certificate in the ,ordinary ,grade1 to have passed the ,science and ,art ,department's ,examination1 in the ,elementary ,stage at least1 and for the full ,certificate in the ,honours ,grade1 in the ,advanced ,stage at least1 in two of the following ,science subjects3-- ,,ii4 ,machine ,construction and ,drawing4 ,,iii4 ,building ,construction4 ,,vi4 ,theoretical ,mechanics4 ,,vii4 ,applied ,mechanics4 ,,xv4 ,elementary ,botany4 ,certificates1 showing that the candidate has passed the ,second ,grade ,examination of the ,science and ,art ,department in ,geometrical ,drawing as well as in ,freehand or ,model ,drawing1 will be accepted in lieu of one of the above ,science subjects for the full ,technological ,certificate in either grade of the ,examination4 ,,section ,,ii4--,,cotton ,,weaving4 ,the ,examination in the ,ordinary ,grade will consist of a paper of questions only4 ,i4 ,syllabus4--,the ,examination will include questions founded on such subjects as the following3-- #a4 ,winding ,machines for warping and pirns4 #b4 ,warping4--,mill1 beam and sectional4 #c4 ,sizing4--,ball1 hank1 dressing1 slashing upon both cylinder and hot-air frames4 #d4 ,beaming and ,scotch ,dressing4 #e4 ,reeds and ,healds 7,counts ,setting1 c471 ,drawing in and ,twisting4 #f4 ,comparative merits of ,hand and ,power ,looms4 #g4 ,the ,power ,loom--its parts1 the principle governing each1 with the relation and timing of each to the other4 #h4 ,shedding ,motions--as ,tappets with their over and under motions4 ,dobbies or witches4 #i4 ,picking motions1 alternate and 8pick and pick40 #aj4 ,beating up1 shuttle box1 and minor motions4 #aa4 ,necessary calculations for the power loom4 #ab4 ,the various makes of cloth produced by ,tappets and ,dobbies as plain cloth1 twills1 satins1 and small figured effects1 with one warp and weft1 or with the addition of extra warp for figuring1 as in ,dhooties4 #ac4 ,method of making designs1 drafts1 and tie-ups for the above4 #ad4 ,colour and colour blending as applied to the coloured branches of the industry4 #ae4 ,calculations for warp and weft and method of costing goods4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the ,examination for the ,honours ,grade will consist of more advanced questions on the preceding subjects1 especially those enumerated in ,sections #g to #aa2 and1 in addition1 questions relating to the following3-- #a4 ,construction of the various ,jacquard machines in use1 and their relative suitability to various goods1 and the system of mounting ,jacquard looms4 #b4 ,construction1 merits and uses of the hand loom4 #c4 ,principles of cloth structure1 and the mechanism required for the production of the following typical fabrics3--,plain cloth1 twills1 diapers1 brocades1 damasks1 coloured stripes and checks1 warp spots1 repps1 weft spots produced with circles1 swivels or extra shuttles1 backed cloths1 double cloths1 #c1 #d1 #e1 c41 ply fabrics1 tapestries1 velveteens1 cords1 ,terry fabrics1 plain and figured gauze1 lappets1 plain and figured leno4 #d4 ,principles of designing and card cutting involved in producing the above fabrics1 giving preference to the actual designing and working of such patterns as shall be practically useful as articles of commerce4 #e4 ,analysis of samples of woven fabrics to determine pattern1 draft1 tie-up1 and counts of material used4 #f4 ,composition of the various yarns used in the production of mixed fabrics4 #g4 ,latent and other defects in fabrics caused by faulty construction and unequal balancing of warp and weft4 #h4 ,selection of warp and weft yarns suitable for the fabrics required4 #i4 ,proportioning of fabrics so as to maintain the original structure with an increased or diminished weight4 #aj4 ,method of calculating the cost of a fabric from given data of values of material and labour1 by ascertaining the fibre1 counts1 ends1 picks and weight4 #aa4 ,actual ,weaving4--,each candidate will be required1 during the year preceding the ,examination1 to design and execute in suitable material an original pattern1 of not less than #bjj ends and #bjj picks in a complete pattern1 and to forward the same 7carriage paid7 to ,london a fortnight prior to the day of the ,examination1 together with a certificate signed by his employer1 or by the class teacher and a member of the ,school ,committee1 stating that the work has been executed by the candidate without assistance4 ,the specimen of weaving1 showing the complete pattern1 must not be less than one yard in length and at least #bd inches in width3 it must be properly dyed or finished1 and constructed in such a manner as to be a saleable article4 ,,ii4 ,full ,technological ,certificate4--,the candidate1 who is not otherwise qualified 7see ,regulations #cc and #cd71 will be required1 for the full ,certificate in the ,ordinary ,grade1 to have passed the ,science and ,art ,department's ,examination1 in the ,elementary ,stage at least1 and for the full ,certificate in the ,honours ,grade1 in the ,advanced ,stage at least1 in two of the following ,science subjects3-- ,,ii4 ,machine ,construction and ,drawing4 ,,iii4 ,building ,construction4 ,,vi4 ,theoretical ,mechanics4 ,,vii4 ,applied ,mechanics4 ,,xv4 ,elementary ,botany4 ,certificates1 showing that the candidate has passed the ,second ,grade ,examination of the ,science and ,art ,department in ,geometrical ,drawing as well as in ,freehand or ,model ,drawing1 will be accepted in lieu of one of the above ,science subjects for the full ,technological ,certificate in either grade of the ,examination4 ,illustration ,,glossary ,,of ,,trade ,,terms4 ,am4--,,american4 ,sc4--,,scotch4 ,some words not mentioned here are explained in previous parts of the book1 and will be found in the ,general ,index4 ,apex--,the tip or point--e4g41 of a cone or wedge4 ,backed ,cloth--,cloth which1 in addition to the faced fabric1 bears bound underneath a layer either of extra weft1 extra warp1 or of another cloth4 ,the term is usually applied to the first-named variety4 ,bar--,a term applied to a single strip of coloured weft1 used as heading or cross border4 ,beam--,the flanged roller on which the warp yarn is wound1 either at the beam1 warping1 sizing1 or dressing machines2 also applied to the full beam4 ,beer--,twenty dents or splits in a reed1 also #dj ends--i4e41 two ends to each split4 ,bevel--,a cog wheel1 having the teeth set at an angle with the shaft on which it moves1 but in the some plane1 unless a skew-gear bevel4 ,bitting--,drawing in additional ends at the side of healds and reeds in case of a wider warp having to be used4 ,bobbin--,a flanged wooden cylinder4 ,borders--,the stripe running along the side of a piece of cloth--formed either by different colour1 counts of yarn1 or weave1 from the centre4 ,box ,motion--,arrangement for operating the shuttle boxes in check weaving4 ,bracket--,an attachment bolted to a framing for the support of other apparatus4 ,cam or ,camb--,a plate revolving on a shaft1 having its circumference other than circular1 thus giving a reciprocating motion to any lever actuated by it4--,applied in some districts to the shedding tappets and picking plates4 ,cellulose--,a botanical term referring to an organic substance of which the cotton fibre principally consists1 and being composed of six atoms of carbon with five of water1 or ,c#f;,h#aj,o#e4 ,cloth--,the technical name for woven cotton fabrics3 although cloth is the popular name for woollen and worsted fabrics1 and cotton is usually called calico1 or some such name1 yet in the trade the name of cloth is always given to cotton goods4 ,compass ,board--,another name for the cumber board4 ,cop--,the cylindrical coil of yarn formed at the mule1 or1 in the case of two-fold yarn1 at the twiner4 ,cord--,the bands used in attaching the healds to the heald-rollers1 or lambs--i4e41 heald cords2 also a very coarse thread1 used as a heading or stripe border2 a name given to a cloth bearing a stripe1 formed by using cord warp yarn2 and also a contraction of corduroy4 ,counts--,a system of indicating the fineness of yarn1 written by placing 's after the figures signifying the number of hanks per lb4--thus1 8#dj's02 otherwise1 grist or numbers4 ,cover--,a name given to the downy appearance of cloth or yarn4 ,cross-band--,sometimes applied to yarns spun twist-way1 in contradistinction to open-band4 ,cross-border--,a heading to a piece of cloth or handkerchief1 either formed by coloured or other weft1 or by a change in the pattern4 ,cumber ,board--,the perforated frame for the guidance of the harness in the jacquard or some dobby shedding motions4 ,cutting--,the severance of the pile warp or pile weft in a fabric which requires the slitting of some filament1 so as to produce a nap1 formed by short threads presenting their section on the face of the cloth4 ,cut--,a length of warp required to weave a piece of cloth2 also the piece when woven4 ,deliquescent--,a substance which tends to liquefy in the air--thus1 chloride of magnesium tends to retain dampness and cause a fabric in which it is present to become moist4 ,dent--,a space between the wires of a reed1 otherwise split4 ,draft--,a plan showing the order in which the ends are drawn through the healds 7see page #id74 ,elongated ,twills--,twilled cloth1 in which the wale extends a greater distance than usual before reaching the other side of the fabric1 caused by weaving two or more picks before altering the risen ends forming the wale4 ,these twills do not run at an angle of #de degrees4 ,end--,the technical name for a thread4 ,entering ,draft--,the system of drawing the warp through the healds 7see ,draft74 ,fell 7of ,cloth7--,the edge of the fabric 7in the loom7 which has most recently been woven4 ,filling--,am4 for weft4 ,fixing--,am4 for tackling4 ,flue--,one lap of the folded cloth4 ,flushing--,bringing the warp or weft to the surface of the cloth without interweaving4 ,fly-reed--,sc4 for loose reed4 ,gaws--,sc4 for goal4 ,gears--,sc4 for healds4 ,goal--,a gap caused in a piece by the cloth being drawn forward without the weft interweaving1 especially when used to mark the end of a piece4 ,grey--,yarn or cloth in an undyed or unbleached state4 ,grist--,synonymous with counts 7,sc474 ,ground--,that portion of a fabric1 usually of a simple weave1 which serves as a base on which to display a figure4 ,hank--,a measurement of yarn4 ,in cotton1 #hdj yards4 ,harness--,the arrangement of leashes in a jacquard4 7,am4 for a heald47 ,heald--,the arrangement of top and bottom staves1 carrying the leashes with eyes for use in stave work4--,sc41 heddle2 ,am41 harness4 ,lag--,a bar of the lattice used in dobby work4 ,lathe 7,south ,lancashire7--,synonymous with slay4 ,lay--,am4 and ,sc4 for slay4 ,leaf--,a heald or a plate of the shedding tappet--e4g41 three-leaf twill three-stave twill4 ,lingo--,the weight below the leashes in the jacquard4 ,l4,s4--,abbreviation of 8long stick40 ,mail-eye--,the aperture in the harness for the reception of the thread4 ,manufacturing--7,vide ,chapter ,i474 ,mash--7,vide ,index74--,otherwise smash1 or trap4 ,mitre ,wheels--,bevel wheels which gear with and are exactly similar to each other4 ,open-band ,yarn--,yarn spun weft-way--that is1 twisted over to the right4 ,p4,c4--,pin cop--i4e41 weft size of cop4 ,pick--,the insertion of a thread of weft2 the propulsion of the shuttle through the shed2 the time occupied in the opening of the shed1 the picking1 and beating up4--,a term used to signify the number of picks in a quarter-inch4 ,pirn--,a wooden tube on which is wound the weft used for headings1 etc4 ,ply--,a thickness or layer of fabric--thus1 two-ply1 three-ply1 refer to double or triple cloth4 ,positive ,motion--,a motion driven by gearing as distinct from one driven by friction or some non-positive force4 ,pure ,size--,sizing with vegetable or animal substances1 used for light percentages4 ,range--,a series of cloths similar in style1 but varying in width or other dimensions4 ,reed--7,vide ,chapter ,,iii474--,also the number of ends per quarter-inch4 ,run--,a stripe of colour in a fabric4 ,scobs--,sc4 for slattering4 ,selvage--,the sides of a fabric4 ,sett--,the fineness of reeds--reed counts4 ,also signifying the amount of warp on the beams which are sized at one time4 ,shaft--,a heald4 ,shed--,the opening made in the warp for the passage of the shuttle2 also1 a weaving mill4 ,shot--,sc4 for pick4 ,slay--,otherwise lay or lathe 7vide ,index74 ,smash--,synonymous with mash or trap 7vide ,index74 ,split--,dent4 ,s4,s4--,abbreviation of 8short stick40 ,stave--,equivalent to shaft4 ,strip--,a narrow bar of heading4 ,stud--,a short projecting pin to carry a wheel or wheels4 ,tapes--,borders of cramped or coarse warp4 ,tappet--7,see ,index74--,sc4 for wiper4 ,technical--,specially appertaining to an industrial art1 business1 or profession4 ,technology--,the branch of knowledge dealing with the systematic study of the industrial arts4 ,terry--,uncut or loop pile4 ,trap--,synonymous with mash4 ,trevette--,a knife used in cutting the pile wires out of the cloth4 ,tuning--,tackling4 ,turns 7per inch7--,the extent of the torsion in yarn4 ,t4,w4--,twist-way yarn or thread1 which1 in being spun1 has been twisted over to the left--distinct from weft-way4 ,tweel--,sc4 for twill4 ,twist--,warp yarn4 ,up-taking--,sc4 for the take-up motion4 ,warp--,the yarn arranged length-way of the cloth--the full beam of warp yarn4 ,water ,t4--,throstle twist4 ,waves--,zigzag twill pattern4 ,wax--,cotton wax is a substance coating the outside of cotton fibres1 and present to the extent of about #a_/b per cent4 ,it is a brownish horny vegetable wax4 ,weft--,the yarn arranged across the cloth4 ,weft-way--,yarn twisted over to the right in spinning4 ,weft may be either twist-way or weft-way4 ,w4,w4--,weft-way4 ,whip-roll--,am4 for back-rest4 ,whip-thread--,the crossing thread in gauze4 ,woof--,the weft4 ,wraith1 ,wrathe1 or ,rathe--,the reed comb used for guiding the yarn to the beam4 ,wrap 7,warper's7--,vide index4 ,wyper or ,wiper--,sc4 for tappets4 ,yarn--,the thread of twisted fibres4 ,,index4 ,a ,accrington trade1 #ab ,adhesive substances1 #cd1 #cg ,american cotton1 #af ,american trade terms1 #afe ,analysis of patterns1 #ij ,antiseptics1 #cd1 #cf ,area 7circular71 #aei ,arrangement of looms1 #ga ,arrangement of shed1 #ai ,b ,back beams1 #dj ,ball sizing1 #dh ,ball warping1 #cj ,ball warps1 #bi ,bare cloth1 #ha ,beaming or beam warping1 #be ,beating up1 #ee1 #fa ,becks1 #cg ,blackburn dobby1 #ajh ,blackburn pick1 #ei ,blackburn standard list1 #aed ,blackburn trade1 #aa ,black oil1 #hb ,bleaching1 #hc ,bobbin warpers1 #bb ,bolton quilts1 #aca ,bolton reed counts1 #adg ,bolton trade1 #ab ,bottoming1 #gc1 #ha ,bradford loom1 #eh ,brake1 #fi ,brocade1 #acj ,bullhide1 #ajb ,burnley trade1 #ab ,bury trade1 #ac ,c ,calculations for-- ,cloth1 #adi ,counts1 #adc ,engines1 #aeh ,healds1 #adh ,jacquards1 #abi ,reeds1 #adf ,sizing1 #adi1 #aeb ,speeds1 #gf1 #aef ,capital invested1 #i ,card cutting1 #abg ,carding1 #ag ,cards for drop-box1 #adj ,cartwright's loom1 #d ,casting out1 #abi ,centre tie1 #abf ,checks1 #acc ,checked shirtings1 #acd ,china clay1 #cf ,chloride of magnesium1 #cf ,chloride of zinc1 #cf ,circle swivels1 #ada ,circular boxes1 #adj ,circumference1 to find1 #aeh ,classification of fancy cloths1 #hi ,cloth1 cotton1 #hj ,cloth1 cover of1 #ha ,cloth1 faults in1 #ha ,cloth looking1 #hj ,cloth1 uneven1 #ha ,coal1 #aeh ,cockly cloth1 #ha ,coloured spots1 #ada ,coloured warping1 #bh ,coloured winding1 #bd ,combing1 #ag ,common dobby1 #ajh ,contraction1 #adi ,cop1 #ba ,cop bottoms1 #ba ,cop nose1 #ba ,cords1 #hg1 #ajb ,cotton1 #ad ,cotton cloth1 #hj ,cotton cultivation1 #ad ,cotton districts1 #af ,cotton fibre1 #ad ,cotton lands1 #ad ,cotton manufacture--syllabus1 #afa ,cotton plant1 #ad ,cotton1 selection of1 #af ,counterpanes1 #aca ,counts on beam1 #aec ,counts1 reed1 #adf ,counts1 single yarn1 #adc ,counts1 two and three-fold1 #ade ,cracks1 #ha ,creel1 #be ,cretonnes1 #hg ,cross borders1 #hb ,crossing thread1 #aaa ,d ,damask1 #acj ,darwen trade1 #ab ,designing1 #ic ,designs1 #ib ,dhootie marker1 #dh ,dhooties1 #hd ,dhooties1 figured1 #aaj ,diameter threads1 #adf ,diggle's chain1 #ace ,dimity1 #acj ,dividend of loom1 #ff ,divisions of the industry1 #a ,dobbies1 #ajj1 #ajc ,dobby sides1 #aaj ,domestics1 #he ,double cloth1 #aji ,double lift1 #ajd ,double yarn1 #ade ,doup1 #gg ,doup healds1 #aab ,draft for plain1 #ee ,drafting1 #id ,drag take-up1 #ajc ,drawing1 #ag ,drawing-in1 #di ,dressing machine1 #e ,dressing1 old system1 #e ,drop box1 #acd ,drying cylinders1 #da ,dwell of slay1 #fb ,e ,eccentricity of slay1 #fb ,engines1 horse-power1 #aeh ,examples wage calculations1 #aed ,expanding comb1 #bf1 #db ,exports1 cotton cloth1 #aj1 #hd1 #he1 #hf1 #hg ,f ,factory ,acts1 #g ,falling rods1 #bf ,fancy cloth1 classification of1 #hi ,farina1 #ce ,fast reed1 #fd ,faults in cloth1 #ha ,feel1 #cb ,fermenting flour1 #cd1 #ci ,figured canvas1 #acj ,figured cloth1 #ij ,figured dhooties1 #aaj ,figured gauze1 #acj ,,figures3-- ,frontispiece3 ,single-action jacquard loom #a ,perfect cotton fibre #b ,section of same #c ,imperfect fibre #d ,section of same #e ,seed and fibres #f ,section of fibres #g ,winding frame #h ,traverse 7winding7 #i ,warping1 falling rods #aj ,stop-motion warping1 elev4 #aa plan #ab ,beam gearing1 slasher1 section #ac elev4 #ad ,presser plan #ae section #af ,slow motion plan #ag ,dhootie marker #ah ,heald #ai ,metallic heald #bj ,reed #ba ,plain loom1 front view #bb ,plain loom 7right hand71 back view #bc ,bradford loom #bd ,diagram--eccentricity of slay #be ,shuttle-box and frog1 fast reed #bf ,take-up motion #bg ,weft stop motion #bh ,plain tappet #bi ,point paper #cj ,plain cloth #ca ,plan of cloth #cb ,design #cc ,draft #cd ,lifting plan and tie #ce ,draft #cf ,draft #cg ,design1 etc4 #ch ,draft and tie #ci ,sateen #dj ,plain #da ,sateen and plain #db ,plate1 sateen tappet #dc ,smalley's motion on loom #dd ,four-leaf twill #de ,four-leaf twill #df ,velveteen #dg ,constitution cord #dh ,keighley dobby #di ,dobby lattice #ej ,dobby pegging #ea ,blackburn dobby #eb ,dobby pegging #ec ,gauze--sketch #ed ,gauze--section #ee ,leno--sketch #ef ,draft--gauze #eg ,doup heald #eh ,netting #ei ,netting #fj ,figured gauze--sketch #fa ,handkerchief loom #fb ,jacquard--section1 single-action #fc ,needles1 jacquard #fd ,double-action jacquard--single cylinder #fe ,double-action jacquard--double cylinder #ff ,london tie #fg ,straight tie #fh ,lay-over tie #fi ,centre tie #gj ,piano card-cutting machine #ga ,diggle's chain #gb ,chain links for ditto #gc ,wright ,shaw's drop box #gd ,plates for ditto 7,also vide ,plates47 ,finishing1 #hc ,floats1 #ha ,flour1 #cd ,flour1 testing1 #cd ,fork and grid motion1 #fh ,friction--sizing1 #dc ,fustian1 #ajb ,g ,gaiting warps1 #gb ,gauze1 #aaa ,gingham1 #acd ,goods made--#ahjj-ahfj1 #h ,goods made--present time1 #hc ,grist1 #adc ,ground for jacquard patterns1 #aji1 #abi ,h ,handkerchiefs1 #aae1 #acd ,handkerchief loom1 #aaf ,hands of looms1 #ga ,hank1 #adc ,hank1 winding from1 #be ,haslingden trade1 #ab ,headings1 #hb ,headles1 #ea ,heald counts1 #adh ,heald motions1 #gi ,healds1 #ea ,heck box1 #cj ,heddles1 #ea ,heddling1 #id ,history of trade1 #c ,honeycomb1 #ie1 #aca ,hooking1 #hj ,horse-power1 #aeh ,hydrometer1 #ch ,i ,,illustrations3-- ,beam gearing1 slasher1 plan1 #db section1 #dc ,blackburn dobby1 #ajg ,bradford loom1 #ei ,centre tie1 #abf ,chain links1 ,diggle's motion1 #acg ,constitution cord1 #ajb ,cotton fibre1 #ae section1 #ae ,design1 #ib1 #if1 #ih1 #aja and #ajb ,dhootie marker1 #dg ,diggle's chain drop box1 #acf ,dobbies1 #ajd1 #ajg ,dobby pegging1 #ajf1 #ajh ,dobby lattice1 #ajf ,double-action jacquard1 ,single cylinder1 #abc ,ditto1 double cylinder1 #abd ,doup healds1 #aac ,drafts1 #ib1 #id1 #ie ,eccentricity of slay1 #fb ,fast reed loom1 #fd ,figured gauze1 #aae ,four-leaf twill1 #b ,gauze1 #aab ,handkerchief loom1 #aaf ,healds1 #ej ,heald motions1 #ef ,imperfect cotton fibre1 #ae section1 #ae ,jacquard loom1 single action1 ,frontispiece ,jacquard loom1 single action1 section1 #aai ,jacquard loom1 double action1 #abc ,jacquard loom1 double action1 double cylinder1 #abd ,keighley dobby1 #ajd ,lay-over tie1 #abf ,leno1 #aab ,lifting plan1 #ib1 #ig ,looms1 #ec1 #ei ,london tie1 #abe ,metallic healds1 #ej ,needles1 #abb ,netting1 #aad1 #aae ,parts of loom1 #ef ,pegging for dobby1 #ajf1 #ajh ,perfect cotton fibre1 #ae ,piano card-cutting machine1 #abh ,plain cloth1 #ia ,plain loom1 #ec ,plain loom in parts1 #ef ,plain tappets1 #ge ,plates1 ,wright ,shaw's loom1 #adj ,point paper1 #ij ,plan of cloth1 #ia ,plan of shed--,plate ,i41 #ai ,presser1 slasher1 plan1 #de section1 #de ,reed1 #ej ,sateen1 #ih ,sectional warping--,plate ,,iii41 #bi ,seed and fibre1 #ae ,shuttle box and frog1 #fd ,slasher sizing machine1 #dj ,slow motion1 #df ,smalley's motion1 #ii ,stop motion1 warping1 plan1 #bg section1 #bg ,straight tie1 #abe ,take-up motion1 #bf ,tappet plates1 #ge ,ties1 #abe1 #abf ,traverse motion1 winding frame1 #bc ,velveteen1 #aja ,warping1 falling rods1 #bd stop motion1 #bg ,weft stop motion1 #fh ,winding frame1 #bb ,wright ,shaw's drop box1 #ach ,indian cotton1 #af ,ingredients1 size1 #cd ,introduction1 #a ,inventions1 #c ,ireland1 cotton trade of1 #ad ,j ,jacconetts1 #hf ,jacquard1 #aai ,capacity1 #aah ,cards1 #abj1 #abg ,cloth1 #abi ,weaving1 #abg ,k ,keighley dobby1 #ajd ,l ,lappet weaving1 #adb ,lay-over tie1 #abf ,lease1 #cj ,leash1 #aaj1 #abj ,legislation1 #f ,length warps1 #adi1 #aeb ,leno1 #hh1 #aab1 #aad ,liability for mildew1 #cg ,lifting plan1 #if ,limited liability1 #g1 #i ,linen counts1 #add ,long cloths1 #he ,long stick1 #afg ,loom1 #eb ,loom fixing1 #ga ,looming1 #di ,looms1 number of1 #aa ,loose reed1 #d1 #fc ,m ,madapollams1 #he ,madras muslin1 #acj ,manchester trade1 #ab ,mangle wheel motion1 #bc ,manufacturing1 meaning of term1 #a ,manufacturing processes1 #ai ,market town1 #b ,marking motions1 #dg ,mashes1 #ha ,measuring motion--warping1 #bh --weaving1 #aag ,merchandise ,marks ,act1 #h ,metallic healds1 #ea ,metal size1 #cf ,mexicans1 #he ,mildew 1 #cf ,mildew1 liability for1 #cg ,mildew1 prevention of1 #cf ,milling up1 #adi ,mixings1 cotton1 #ag ,mixings1 size1 #cg ,mixings1 light size1 #ci ,mixings1 medium size1 #ci ,mixings1 heavy size1 #ci ,movements of loom1 #ee ,mull1 #hf ,n ,netting1 #aae ,non-positive take-up1 #ajc ,number of machines in shed1 #ai ,o ,oatmeal cloth1 #aji1 #abi ,oldham trade1 #ac ,opening1 #ag ,overlookers 7loom71 #gb ,overpick1 #ei ,osbaldeston1 ,john1 #d ,p ,packing1 #hc ,parts of a loom1 #ee1 #ef ,pattern pricking1 #ij ,pegging for dobby1 #ajf1 #aji1 #aaa ,percentages of size1 #cc1 #ch1 #adi1 #aec ,percentages of waste1 #bg1 #aed ,picking1 #ee1 #ei ,pile weaving1 #aja1 #aca ,pillow-slip weaving1 #aji ,plain cloth1 #hd1 #ij1 #ia ,plain drafting1 #ee ,plain loom1 #eb ,plaiting1 #hj ,plan of shed1 #ah ,,plates3-- ,i4 ,plan of shed1 #ai ,,ii4 ,stop-motion warping1 #bg ,,iii4 ,sectional warping1 #bi ,,iv4 ,slasher sizing machine1 #dj ,v4 ,plain loom in parts1 #ef ,,vi4 ,heald top motions1 #ef ,,vii4 ,dobbied loom1 #ajd ,point paper1 #ij ,position of warp1 #eh ,potato starch1 #ce ,preparatory processes1 #ai1 #ba ,pressers1 #de ,preston trade1 #ab ,printers1 #hf ,processes1 spinning1 #ag ,processes1 weaving1 #ai ,q ,quilts1 #aca ,r ,raising1 #hc1 #ajc ,rating goods1 #adi ,reed and pick1 #he ,reed counts1 #adf ,reeds1 #ea ,reed space1 #gi ,reed table1 #adh ,reedy cloth1 #ha ,repeating jacquard cards1 #abh ,rice starch1 #ce ,ring bobbins1 #bd ,rochdale trade1 #ac ,roving1 #ag ,s ,sago1 #ce ,satin1 #ih1 #ajj ,sateens1 #hg ,sateen motion1 #ii ,scotch reed counts1 #adg ,scotch trade1 #ac ,scroll pick1 #gh ,scutching1 #ag ,sea ,island cotton1 #af ,sectional warping1 #bh ,selection1 warp1 #ba1 #cc ,selection1 weft1 #fj ,selection1 yarns1 #ba1 #fj ,shed1 #ai ,shedding1 #eg ,shedding motion1 #gi ,shed 7warp71 #ed1 #eh ,shirtings1 #hd ,short stick1 #afh ,shuttle1 #fj ,shuttle flying1 #gc ,shuttle race1 #fj1 #fc ,side tappets1 #eh ,silk counts1 #add ,site for shed1 #bj ,size of warp shed1 #eh ,sizing calculations1 #adi1 #aeb ,sizing--drying1 #da ,sizing headstock1 #db ,sizing machinery1 #e1 #ci ,sizing materials1 #cd ,sizing--object1 #cb ,sizing--percentages1 #cc1 #ch ,sizing rollers1 #dj ,sizing under pressure1 #da ,slasher1 #ci ,slashing1 #ci ,slay1 #fj ,slow motion1 #de ,slubbing1 #ag ,smalley's motion1 #ii ,smash1 #ha ,snarls1 #bb ,snicks1 #bb ,soap1 #ce ,soda1 #cf ,softener1 #cd1 #ce1 #cg ,sow box1 #dj ,specification shed1 #ai ,speed loom1 #gi ,speed shafts1 #aef ,speed tappet shaft1 #gf ,spindles1 number of1 #aa ,spinning department1 #af ,spinning--mule1 throstle1 ring1 #ah ,split motion1 #gh ,split rods1 #db ,splits1 #gg ,standard goods1 #hh ,starches1 #cd1 #cg ,statistics1 #i ,steeping flour1 #cd1 #ci ,stockport counts1 #adg ,stockport trade1 #ac ,stop motion1 warping1 #bf ,straight tie1 #abe ,stripes1 #aja1 #acc ,surat cotton1 #af ,syllabus--,cotton manufacture1 #afa ,syllabus--,weaving and pattern designing1 #afb ,t ,tackling1 #gb ,take-up motions1 #fe1 #ajc ,tallow1 #ce ,taping1 #ci ,tappets1 #ee1 #eg1 #ge1 #ig ,tappets1 construction1 #eg1 #ii ,tappets1 plain1 #ee1 #eg ,t-cloth1 #he ,terry towels1 #acb ,temple rollers1 #d1 #fi ,testing yarn1 #adf ,thick sets1 #ajb ,throstle bobbins1 #bd ,tie1 #ig ,tie for jacquard1 #abd ,toilet cloth1 #aca ,top motions1 #gi ,timing1 #gj ,tooth1 #bh ,traverse1 #bc ,treading plan1 #ig ,turkey-reds1 #hf ,turkish towels1 #acb ,twaddle1 #ch ,twill shaft speed1 #gf1 #aeg ,twist1 #ba1 #cc ,twisting1 #di ,two and three-fold yarn1 #ade ,u ,under pick1 #gh ,uneven cloth1 #ha ,uplands cotton1 #af ,v ,varieties of goods1 #hc ,velveteens1 #hg1 #aja ,w ,wages--looming1 #ej ,wages--weaving1 #gd ,wages--winding1 #bd ,wages--standard list1 #aed ,ward's dobby1 #aje ,warp1 #ba1 #cc ,warping 7beam71 #be ,warping calculations1 #bh1 #bi1 #cj1 #aeb ,warping mill1 #cj ,warping several counts1 #bh ,warping stop motion1 #bf ,warp line1 #eh ,warp pile1 #ij1 #aca ,waste1 #bg1 #gd ,waste1 weaver's1 #gd ,wax1 #ce ,weavers1 #gd ,weaving1 #eb ,weaving and pattern designing syllabus1 #afb ,weft1 #fa ,weft pile1 #aja ,weft stop motion1 #d1 #fg ,weight-giving size1 #cf ,weight piece1 #adi ,weight size in piece1 #adi1 #aec ,weight warp in piece1 #adi ,weight weft in piece1 #adi ,winding1 #bb ,winding frame1 #bb ,witch machine1 #ajh ,working design1 #ig ,workpeople1 number of1 #aa ,worsted counts1 #add ,woven pile1 #ij1 #aja1 #aca ,wrap reel1 #add ,wrap1 warpers'1 #bh ,wrapping1 #add ,wright ,shaw's drop box1 #ach ,y ,yarn calculations1 #adc ,yarn measure1 #adc ,yorkshire loom1 #eh ,z ,zinc1 muriate of1 #cf ,illustration3 ,decoration ,,printed ,,by ,,ballantyne1 ,,hanson ,,and ,,co4 ,,edinburgh ,,and ,,london ,,advertisements4 ,,fleming',s 8,,standard0 ,,oak ,,tanned ,,main ,,driving ,,bands4 ,,any ,,width ,,or ,,thickness4 ,,delivered ,,at ,a ,,day',s ,,notice ,,if ,,required4 ,illustration ,,belting ,,for ,,all ,,requirements4 ,,ordinary ,,widths ,,in ,,stock4 ,,camel ,,hair ,,belting4 ,,cotton ,,belting4 ,,link ,,belting4 ,,laces4 ,,pickers4 ,,picking ,,bands4 ,,mill ,,leathers4 ,,mule ,,belting4 ,a ,speciality4 ,,joints ,,cemented ,,only1 ,,and ,,guaranteed ,,equal ,,to ,,any ,,belting ,,of ,,this ,,description ,,in ,,the ,,market4 ,apply for ,catalogue1 ,contains ,valuable ,commercial ,information4 ,post free4 ,,belting4 ,comprising ,firms established #ajj years4 ,,fleming1 ,,birkby ,,goodall1 ,,lim,d444 ,belting1 c41 ,manufacturers1 ,,west ,,grove ,,mill1 ,,halifax1 ,,england4 ,,branches ,,at ,,liversedge ,,and ,,brighouse1 ,,yorks4 ,cloth1 ,crown #hvo4 ,second ,edition4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,weaving ,calculations4 ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,author4 ,a ,volume on all ,varieties of ,calculations ,required in the ,weaving and ,preparatory ,processes1 ,standard ,lists of ,wages1 c4 ,,opinions ,,of ,,the ,,press4 ,mr4 ,,brooks is well and favourably known in the textile industries as a writer of excellent text-books in connection with the cotton trade4444 ,in this book he has succeeded in doing the work1 avoiding on the one hand intricate mathematical problems1 which are discarded in practice1 and on the other giving clear and simple rules for making all the calculations required in the spinning and manufacturing of cotton goods4--,textile ,recorder4 ,hitherto the books published on weaving calculations have lacked the thorough instruction which characterises ,mr4 ,,brooks',s brochure1 and many cotton students will find it a decidedly useful guide4 ,the chapters on cloth and yarn calculations will be found decidedly useful and interesting4 ,mr4 ,brooks is to be congratulated on placing before the trade a vade mecum of considerable merit4--,textile ,world4 ,this is one of the most useful works connected with cotton manufacturing that we have ever seen4 ,no overseer or any one having to do with calculations in a cotton-mill should be without it4--,boston ,journal of ,commerce1 ,u4,s4,a4 ,the author of this book is well known for his excellent work on #8,cotton ,manufacturing1' which deals very fully with all operations involved in the industry4 ,these calculations will also be found extremely useful to those for whom it is intended4 ,it has been carefully written1 and should have a place on every weaving bookshelf4--,textile ,manufacturer4 c4 c4 ,,asa ,,lees ,,co41 ,limited1 ,soho ,iron ,works1 ,,oldham4 ,address for ,telegrams--,,asa1 ,,oldham4 ,constructors of ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,,machinery for ,preparing1 ,spinning ,doubling ,,cotton ,,and ,,wool4 ,,new ,,and ,,important ,,technical ,,works4 ,,the 8,,students' ,,cotton ,,spinning10 ,by ,,joseph ,,nasmith1 ,associate ,institution ,mechanical ,engineers2 ,member ,manchester ,association ,engineers2 ,editor of 8,textile ,recorder20 ,author of 8,modern ,cotton ,spinning ,machinery40 ,a book which1 viewed as a whole1 is admirably adapted for its purpose4--,manchester ,guardian4 #8,the ,student's ,cotton ,spinning' is a work we can unhesitatingly recommend4--,textile ,manufacturer4 ,the information is derived from the most modern sources1 and will be found of permanent value to those connected with the cotton industry4--,industries4 ,the work appears to cover the whole field1 even to the minutest detail4--,manchester ,city ,news4 ,its pages abound in practical hints4--,wool and ,cotton ,reporter 7,boston1 ,u4,s4,a474 ,the book should be in the hands of every wide-awake manufacturer and spinner4--,boston ,journal of ,commerce4 ,a volume which will be found valuable1 not only to the student1 but to the men who know something but want to learn more of the art of spinning and to study the subject in a practical way4--,textile ,record 7,philadelphia1 ,u4,s4,a474 ,after careful study of the work1 our reviewer is of opinion that it is unequalled by any other book of cotton literature4--,indian ,textile ,journal4 ,the book we cannot recommend too warmly1 not only to students1 but also to all technical men1 and spinning managers engaged in practice4--,oesterich's ,wollen und ,lienen ,industrie4 ,the ,book contains #ddh ,pages and #ajj ,illustrations1 and forms a ,complete ,handbook on the subject4 ,,price #fs4 ,by the same ,author4 8,,modern ,,cotton ,,spinning ,,machinery10 ,,its ,,principles ,,and ,,construction4 #bcb ,detailed ,drawings of the ,latest ,types of ,machines4 ,price #aes41 delivered free in the ,united ,kingdom4 ,the best and most complete book extant on the machinery employed in cotton spinning4--,textile ,manufacturer1 ,september #ae1 #ahij4 ,no student or spinner should be without it4--,textile ,manufacturer1 ,october #ae1 #ahij4 ,cannot fail to be the standard authority for many years4--,textile ,recorder1 ,november #ae1 #ahij4 ,has the essential merit of attaining what it aims at--namely1 completeness4--,manchester ,examiner and ,times4 ,a work of great value to all who are interested in the manufacture or use of cotton spinning machinery4--,manchester ,guardian4 ,,manchester3 ,,joseph ,,nasmith1 #fa ,barton ,arcade4 ,established #agia4 ,,john ,,whiteley ,,sons1 ,limited1 ,,brunswick ,,mills1 ,,halifax1 ,,england4 ,manufacturers of ,card ,clothing in ,mild1 and ,hardened and ,tempered ,steel ,wire1 for ,cotton1 ,wool1 ,worsted1 and ,silk1 with ,round1 ,flat1 ,flat-to-,bend1 ,angular1 and ,convex ,wire1 ,plated ,wire1 ,music ,wire1 and ,,ground ,,needle ,,points4 ,,patent ,,special ,,polished ,,plough-,,ground ,,card ,,clothing4 ,the ,sides of the ,teeth of the ,plough-,ground ,card ,clothing made by ,,john ,,whiteley ,,sons1 ,limited1 are so smooth that it is being used extensively on the ,finest ,cottons4 ,we shall be glad to furnish ,users with enlarged ,micro-,photographs illustrating the remarkable smoothness attained4 ,,improved ,,takers-,,in ,,and ,,dirt ,,rollers4 ,card ,tacks4 ,gauges for ,setting ,cylinders1 ,doffers1 ,flats1 c4 ,flats ,re-cut and ,clothed with ,whiteley's ,patent ,clasp1 ,ashworth's ,methods or ,lead ,rivets1 and ,trued1 ,tested1 and ,ground ready for use4 ,,whiteley',s ,,improved ,,tension ,,machine ,,for ,,mounting ,,fillets4 ,,needle-,,pointed ,,stripping ,,rollers1 ,,burnishing ,,brushes1 ,,spiral ,,flat ,,stripping ,,brushes4 ,,carding ,,engines ,,clothed1 ,,ground1 ,,and ,,started ,,by ,,experienced ,,men4 ,samples and ,estimates on ,application4 ,,james ,,briggs ,,sons1 ,,lion ,,oil ,,works1 ,,blackley1 ,,manchester4 ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,all ,,classes ,,of ,,oils for ,,machinery1 ,,spindles ,,and ,,looms4 ,,oils for ,,marine ,,and ,,stationary ,,engines4 ,,oils for ,,shafting1 ,,cylinders1 ,,and ,,valves4 ,as ,used by some of the ,largest ,mills1 ,steamships1 c4 ,cable and ,telegraphic ,address--8,,samoht1 ,,manchester40 ,,geo4 ,,thomas ,,co41 #bh ,,deansgate1 ,,manchester1 ,,engineers1 ,,contractors1 and ,,exporters of all ,classes of ,,machinery and ,,accessories1 c4 ,n4,b4--,representatives in all the ,industrial ,centres of the ,world4 ,,machinery for ,,spinning and ,,weaving ,cotton1 ,wool1 ,worsted1 ,flax1 ,hemp1 ,jute1 ,silk1 c4 ,,bleaching1 ,,dyeing1 ,,printing1 ,,finishing ,textile ,fabrics4 ,steam ,boilers1 ,steam ,engines1 ,economisers1 ,turbines1 ,mill ,gearing1 ,electric ,lighting and ,gas ,plant2 ,hoists1 c4 ,ironwork for ,mills from ,a to ,z--,fireproof1 c41 ,roofing and ,patent ,glazing2 ,heating and ,ventilating ,apparatus4 ,paper1 ,rice1 ,sugar1 ,ice1 ,flour1 ,oil1 ,chemical1 ,distillery1 ,iron and ,steel ,plants4 ,portable and ,permanent ,railway ,plant1 ,rolling ,stock1 ,locomotives1 ,steam ,ships1 ,steam ,launches1 ,dredgers1 c4 ,hydraulic ,machinery and ,tools4 ,,sole ,,makers ,,and ,,proprietors ,,of ,,the ,,patent ,,universal ,,yarn ,,assorting ,,balances4 ,british ,patent1 ,no4 #f1gjc1 #ahhf4 ,u4,s4,a4 ,patent1 ,no4 #chj1hbf1 #ahhh4 ,new ,patents1 ,no4 #ae1ded #ahhi1 and ,no4 #i1bfd1 #ahij4 ,n4,b4--,these ,balances or ,yarn ,testers 7indispensable to ,spinners1 ,manufacturers1 and ,merchants7 indicate the ,counts of ,yarn in small lengths1 or from bits of cloth1 in either ,cotton1 ,woollen1 ,worsted1 ,linen1 ,jute1 or other ,fibre4 8,,simplex0 ,,balance4 ,illustration3 ,scale1 #d_/eths full size4 ,price #cjs4 complete ,illustration3 ,scale1 #a_/eth full size4 ,price #fes4 ,crown #hvo4 ,paper ,covers4 ,one ,shilling4 ,weaving ,examination ,questions4 ,,contents4--,six ,years' ,weaving and ,pattern ,designing ,questions4--,lists of ,examiners1 ,rules of ,examination1 c4--,the ,syllabus for ,study in each of the following ,subjects3--,woollen and ,worsted ,cloth ,weaving1 ,cotton ,weaving1 ,linen ,weaving1 ,silk ,weaving1 and ,jute ,weaving4 ,post ,free1 #as4 #a;d4 ,c4 ,p4 ,,brooks1 ,,the ,,mount1 ,,blackburn4 ,,bobbins1 ,,tubes1 ,,skewers1 ,,shuttles1 c4 ,,wilson ,,brothers1 ,,limited4 ,cornholme ,mills1 ,,todmorden4 ,telegrams--,,wilsons1 ,,cornholme4 ,telephone1 ,no4 #g4 ,,original ,,inventors ,,and ,,makers ,,of ,,steel ,,and ,,brass ,,plated ,,bobbins ,,and ,,tubes4 ,we make a speciality of ,light ,cardroom ,tubes with small diameters for fine counts4 ,we have excellent facilities for cutting1 seasoning1 and partially preparing both ,tubes and ,bobbins before turning4 ,we have large stocks of regular sizes always seasoning1 the process occupying from two months up to two years4 ,we are thus enabled to guarantee exact and uniform diameters4 ,we are the largest makers of ,ring ,twist ,bobbins and ,ring ,weft ,pirns4 ,every ,bobbin is carefully balanced4 ,rabbeth ,ring ,twist ,bobbins1 with ,wilson ,brothers' ,patent 8,g0 ,shield1 are the strongest ,bobbins in the market1 and capable of resisting #ej per cent4 more pressure than any other protected ,bobbins1 and #aej per cent4 more than ,bobbins without metal ,protectors4 ,warping and ,winding ,bobbins fitted with ,wilson ,brothers' ,patent ,flange ,binders cannot open at the ,joints1 and are so made that it is almost impossible for them to be broken with ordinary usage4 ,we have put down a plant for making ,wood ,bobbins and ,skewers ,damp and ,steam ,proof4 ,we ,enamel ,rabbeth ,ring ,twist and ,ring ,weft ,pirns1 also ,lancewood ,cop ,skewers1 so that ,yarn can be conditioned on the ,bobbin or ,skewer without damage4 ,,the ,,oldest ,,jacquard ,,machinists ,,in ,,the ,,world4 ,,devoge ,,co4 ,works--,,sycamore ,,street1 ,,oldham ,,road1 ,city ,office--#ae;a ,,york ,,street1 ,,manchester4 ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,,jacquard ,,machines4 ,single-,lift1 ,double-,lift1 ,double-,cylinder1 and ,compound ,jacquards2 ,double-,shed ,jacquards2 ,lace ,jacquards2 ,wood ,machines for ,hand-loom2 ,jacquard ,dobbies2 ,driving ,motions2 all kinds of ,wire and ,wire ,work2 ,lead and ,iron ,wire ,lingoes2 ,comberboards and ,slips2 ,glass1 ,brass1 and ,steel ,mails2 ,couplings and ,leashes2 ,harness ,thread2 ,springs1 c41 and every requisite for ,fancy ,weaving4 ,,new ,,patent ,,leno ,,jacquard4 ,,jacquard ,,harness ,,builders4 ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,,harnesses1 ,,including ,,patent ,,expanding ,,harness4 ,,new ,,plant ,,recently ,,erected ,,for ,,boring ,,comberboard ,,slips4 ,,makers ,,of ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,card-,cutting ,machines4 ,piano ,machines to cut from design2 ,table ,repeaters1 with ,vertical and ,railway ,presses2 ,card ,cutting ,plates and ,punches of every kind2 and ,devoge's celebrated ,self-,acting ,repeater1 which cuts #dj ,cards per minute4 ,illustrations of three of our ,machines may be seen on pages #abc1 #abd1 and #abh of this work4 ,an ,illustrated ,circular will be sent on application4 ,,james ,,walmsley ,,sons 7,,established #ahdh71 ,leather ,curriers1 ,strapping ,manufacturers1 and ,mill ,furnishers ,,works3--,,avenue ,,parade1 ,,accrington4 ,,makers ,,of ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,,roller ,,skins1 ,,single ,,leather ,,belting1 ,,double ,,leather ,,belting1 ,,green ,,picking ,,bands1 ,,oak-,,tanned ,,picking ,,bands1 ,,leather ,,pickers1 ,,laces1 ,,buffalo ,,skips ,,and ,,pickers1 ,,loom ,,fittings1 c4 ,and all other kinds of ,,leather ,,goods used in the ,spinning and ,manufacturing of ,cotton1 ,woollen1 ,silk1 or ,jute4 ,telegrams--8,abbey1 ,accrington40 ,telephone--,no4 #bc4 ,,joseph ,,casartelli1 ,,manufacturer ,,of ,,all ,,kinds ,,of ,,instruments ,,for ,,use ,,in ,,mills1 ,,manufactories1 ,,engineering ,,works1 c4 ,illustration ,,new ,,microscope ,,cloth ,,counting ,,glass ,,of ,,high ,,power1 suitable for counting all ,cloths and ,coloured ,borders4 ,,folding ,,cloth ,,counting ,,glasses1 ,english and ,foreign ,measurements1 of ,guaranteed ,accuracy ,,patent ,,improved ,,richards' ,,steam ,,engine ,,indicators ,,and ,,springs4 ,,pressure ,,and ,,vacuum ,,gauges1 ,,engine ,,counters1 ,,thermometers1 ,,hygrometers1 ,,pyrometers1 c41 c4 ,illustrated ,price ,list ,post ,free4 #dc ,,market ,,street1 ,,manchester4 ,established upwards of ,seventy ,years4 ,,sizing ,,ingredients ,,and ,,filling ,,materials ,used by ,sizers1 ,manufacturers1 ,finishers1 c4 ,solid and ,liquid ,chloride of ,zinc4 ,pure ,chloride of ,calcium and ,magnesium4 ,anti-,septics4 ,china ,clay1 ,french ,chalk1 and ,barytes4 ,epsom and ,glauber ,salts4 ,hard and ,soft ,soaps4 ,paraffin1 ,spermaceti and ,japan ,wax4 ,sizing ,grease1 ,composition1 and ,tallow4 ,cocoa ,nut1 ,palm1 ,castor1 and ,olive ,oils4 ,soluble ,oil1 ,oleine1 ,glycerine1 and ,glucose4 ,soluble ,blue1 ,colours1 and ,irish ,moss4 ,sago1 ,rice1 ,tapioca1 and ,wheat ,sizing ,flour4 ,scotch and ,foreign ,farina4 ,dextrine and ,gum4 ,maize1 ,wheat1 ,potato1 and ,rice ,starch4 ,gum ,tragacanth1 ,gelatine1 and ,bone ,size4 ,,sole ,,makers ,,of ,,lancashire ,,acme ,,size4 ,,sole ,,agents ,,for ,,the ,,gloy ,,manufacturing ,,co4 ,,stocks ,,kept ,,for ,,immediate ,,delivery4 ,shipping ,orders ,carefully ,packed4 ,a long experience among ,sizers and ,finishers often enables us to materially help our clients to get at results they specially want4 ,for ,prices1 ,samples1 ,particulars1 c41 apply to ,,adley1 ,,tolkien1 ,,co41 ,chemical ,manufacturers1 ,drysalters1 and ,produce ,merchants1 ,,novas ,,chemical ,,works1 ,paterson ,street1 ,,blackburn4 ,telegraphic ,address3--,,adtolco1 ,,blackburn4 ,telephone ,no4 #ahd4 ,manchester ,royal ,exchange3--,box #dj and ,pillar #ab1 every ,tuesday and ,friday4 ,london ,office3--#ad to #bj ,st4 ,,mary ,,axe1 e4c4 ,london ,works3--,penton ,street1 ,,pentonville1 n4 ,established #ahdc4 ,telegrams--8,,kershaw1 ,,hollinwood40 ,,joseph ,,kershaw ,,co4',s ,,non-,,conducting ,,composition ,,is pronounced by practical ,civil1 ,gas1 ,mining1 and other ,engineers1 and a large number of ,firms who have tested its value1 to be the ,best1 ,most ,durable1 and ,cheapest ,non-,conducting ,material in the market1 effecting a considerable saving in fuel by preventing the radiation of heat4 ,saves cost in a few weeks4 ,will not burn4 ,numerous ,testimonials1 and over ,nine ,thousand ,references4 ,some idea may be gathered of the saving effected by our ,composition from the fact that in scores of cases extending over a period of twenty years1 where concerns have been worked by four boilers1 after being coated with our ,composition they have been enabled to work the concern with three boilers1 and allow one to be at rest4 ,will ,last ,twenty ,years4 ,does not ,shrink4 ,awarded ,certificate of ,merit at the ,industrial and ,art ,exhibition1 ,manchester1 #ahhj4 ,the only ,award given in this ,department1 after a severe competition with other competitors1 and ,honourable ,mention at ,manchester ,smoke ,abatement ,exhibition1 #ahhb4 ,see page #ahb of the ,official ,report of the ,smoke ,abatement ,committee1 held at ,grosvenor ,house1 ,grosvenor ,square1 ,london1 on ,friday1 ,july #ad1 #ahhb1 under the ,presidency of ,his ,grace the ,duke of ,westminster1 ,k4,g4 ,,asbestos ,,coating1 ,,silicate ,,cotton ,,or ,,slag ,,wool ,,coating4 ,,wheel ,,greases4 ,,locomotive ,,and ,,water ,,wheel ,,greases4 ,rope ,driving ,composition4 ,black and ,brown ,banding ,compositions4 ,,red1 ,,black1 ,,and ,,other ,,coloured ,,varnishes4 ,,detergent ,,composition1 ,for ,removing and ,preventing ,scale in ,steam ,boilers4 ,lead ,ore4 ,engine and ,bolton ,polishes4 ,white ,curd ,soap4 ,white ,soft ,soap1 for ,cop ,bottoms4 ,soft ,soap4 ,belting ,syrup4 ,white ,lead4 ,oxide and ,other ,coloured ,paints4 ,in ,extra ,strong ,casks for ,exportation4 ,,grease1 ,,varnish1 ,,composition1 ,,and ,,soap ,,works1 ,,hollinwood1 near ,,oldham4 ,,howard ,,bullough1 ,limited1 ,,accrington 7,england71 ,,makers ,,of ,cotton ,spinning and ,manufacturing ,,machinery ,of the most modern and approved principle1 with all ,brackets and ,seatings milled by ,special ,machinery to ,standard ,templets4 ,,specialities3 ,,anglo-,,american ,,openers ,,and ,,scutchers4 ,new ,patent ,,revolting ,,flat ,,carding ,,engine1 ,with rigid bend--#aaj ,flats--#dc working4 ,over #fjjj ,cards at work4 ,,drawing ,,frames1 with ,electric ,stop ,motion4 ,reliable--quick--not liable to get out of order4 ,already applied to over #ce1jjj deliveries4 ,,slubbing1 ,,intermediate1 ,,roving ,,frames1 ,with ,patent ,differential ,motion1 ,patent ,cone ,lifting ,motion1 ,patent ,cap ,bars1 and ,patent ,method of ,balancing ,top ,rail1 c41 c4 ,we have applied ,electric ,stop ,motion to over #bjj1jjj ,intermediate ,spindles with marked success for the prevention of 8,single40 ,,ring ,,spinning ,,frame4 ,,the ,,largest ,,makers ,,in ,,the ,,world4 ,over #d1ejj1jjj ,spindles supplied4 ,,ring ,,weft ,,frames4 ,references given on application1 comprising leading and extensive mills where the ,weft ,ring has entirely displaced the ,mule4 ,,ring ,,doubling ,,frames1 ,made on either the ,english or ,scotch ,system1 ,for ,ordinary ,doubling or for ,sewing ,cottons4 ,,compound ,,sizing ,,machines4 ,one #i ft4 ,cavity ,cylinder and #c to #g ,fans4 ,howard ,bullough's ,air-,drying and ,cylinder ,sizing ,machines of all sizes from #c ft4 to #i ft41 in ,tin and ,copper1 with some or all of the following improvements1 are found in all countries wherever ,cotton ,manufacturing is carried on4 ,hitchon's ,patent ,safety ,compound ,friction ,motion for coarse or fine counts4 ,hitchon's ,patent 8,self-,traversing0 ,yarn ,beam ,presser4 ,hitchon's ,patent ,self-,expanding and ,contracting ,double ,roller ,yarn ,beam ,presser4 ,hitchon's ,patent ,adjustable ,measuring ,indicator1 will mark any length of yarn from #a_/d to #bjj yards or metres 7,,requires ,,no ,,change ,,wheels74 ,hitchon's ,patent ,self-,regulating ,high ,pressure ,size ,boiler4 ,hitchon's ,patent ,yarn ,relieving ,motion for size box4 ,new ,patent ,light ,running ,beaming ,machine 78,improved ,singleton071 with ,patent ,self-,stopping ,measuring ,motion1 adjustable for any number of yards4 ,this machine has so rapidly superseded all others--our own six patents included--as to be practically the only one recognised in the market4 ,,howard ,,bullough1 ,limited1 ,,accrington1 ,,lancashire4 ,accrington is distant from ,manchester only #bj miles4 ,frequent trains run daily from ,victoria or ,salford ,stations on the ,lancashire and ,yorkshire ,railway4 ,illustration3 ,paris1 #ahgh4 ,illustration3 ,london1 #ahhe4 ,attend ,exchange1 ,manchester1 every ,tuesday and ,friday1 ,no4 #aj ,pillar1 ,one to ,two o'clock4 ,,established #ahfc4 ,practical ,experience in ,weaving and ,loom ,making for #cf ,years4 ,,henry ,,livesey1 ,limited1 ,,blackburn1 ,,makers of ,,looms ,for ,weaving ,printers1 ,shirtings1 ,t ,cloths1 ,domestics1 ,linen and ,sail ,cloths1 ,double ,lift ,dobbies up to #dj ,shafts4 ,makers of the ,improved 8,slasher0 ,sizing1 ,cop and ,ring ,winding and ,self-stopping ,beaming ,machines1 ,plaiting ,machines1 ,looming and ,drawing-in ,frames1 c4 ,drum ,winding and ,spooling ,machines for ,coloured ,yarns1 ,hydraulic ,cloth ,presses1 c41 c4 ,makers also of ,bobbins1 ,tubes1 ,shuttles1 ,pickers1 c41 c4 ,loom ,sides ,planed and ,cross ,rails cut to exact length4 ,illustration ,,crank and ,,tappet ,,shaft ,,bushes1 also ,,bearings of ,,picking ,,shafts1 with their respective ,,seatings on ,loom ,sides1 are ,planed2 these improvements secure more solidity in build of ,loom1 and thereby effect a great saving in wear and tear1 require less power1 and give more uniform working with greater speed4 ,illustration ,illustrated ,catalogues on ,application4 ,plans and ,estimates furnished for every description of ,weaving ,machinery4 ,transcriber's notes3 ,in the text version1 italics are represented by underscores1 and bold and black letter text by equals symbols4 ,superscripts are represented by and subscripts by 4 ,missing or incorrect punctuation has been repaired4 ,inconsistent spelling and hyphenation have been left4 ,this book uses both high level and standard 4 in decimal numbers4 ,in the html version1 dittos have been replaced by the repeated text so that text alignes for easier reading4 ,the following mistakes have been noted3 p4 #ab4 ,egyptain changed to ,egyptian4 p4 #ah4 ,symbol ,c represents a ,c rotated by #ij;deg4 p4 #be4 ,symbol ,v represents a large ,v symbol4 p4 #ef4 ,labels1 #ca1 #acc and #aef - #afb are missing4 p4 #he4 ,symbol ,t represents a large ,t4 p4 #hf4 similiar has been changed to similar4 p4 #ic4 tranferred has been changed to transferred4 p4 #aji4 thus-- changed to 3-- to match next paragraph4 p4 #aec4 ,for the calculation on actual size at the bottom of this page to make sense1 #bfjj should be #bfjjj4 ,this has been left unchanged ,adverts4 p4 #ac4 ,telegraphic ,address3--,,adtolco1 ,,blackburn4 ,telephone ,no4 #ahd4 has no closing quote1 this has been left4