,illu/ration3 ,,/4 ,,m>g>et',s1 ,,k+',s ,,lynn4 ,f a photograph by ,mr4 ,cyril ,ellis1 ,victoria ,road1 ,n4 ,,*ur* ,,ne$lework ,a ,,manual ,,( ,,practical ,,in/ruction ,,by ,,h9da ,m4 ,,h&s ,illu/ration ,,london ,g4 ,j4 ,,palm] ,,sons1 #g ,,portugal ,,/reet1 ,w4,c4 #aijg ,,d$ication ,,to ,,our ,,de> ,,"m1 ,,! ,,holy ,,*ur* ,,?is ,,little ,,"w ,,is ,,d$icat$ ,,by ,,"o ,,( ,,h] ,,fai?ful ,,daught]s ,,) ,,! ,,hope ,,t ,,h] ,,humble ,,s]vice ,,may ,,be ,,accept$ #8,to ! ,glory ( ,god' ,,preface ,miss ,h&s rem9ds me t x 0 at my sugge/ion1 z ,editor ( #8,! ,treasury1' t %e und]took ! writ+ ( ! articles :i* =m ! basis ( ?is volume4 ,my confid5ce 9 h] fitness to write su* pap]s 0 m ?an ju/ifi$ by ! result4 ,a m]e man1 inde$1 _c presume to (f] an op9ion ( a book on ,embroid]y :i* w c>ry mu* weight2 yet ! lett]s receiv$ by me dur+ ! s]ial appe>ance ( ^! pap]s %[$ unmi/akably t !y 7 supply+ a real want4 ,9 _! new & revis$ =m !y _c fail to be yet m widely useful4 ,moreov]1 ! beautiful "w execut$ by ,miss ,h&s = my own & o!r *ur*es is ample pro( t %e is z skill$ 9 ! practice z 9 ! !ory ( h] art4 ,s ) mu* will+ness ,i contribute ^! few words ( introduction4 ,!re mu/ be _m ladies to :om su* a book z ?is--lucid1 compact1 & inexp5sive--w be mo/ welcome1 enabl+ !m to use _! ne$les = ! highe/ ( purposes--! s]vice ( ! ,*ur* & ! beautify+ ( ! ,sanctu>y4 ,we all feel1 ,i ?9k1 t su* "w1 :5 fa%ion$ by ! h&s ( wor%ipp]s1 has a wor? & a significance1 ap>t f its intr9sic value1 :i* no ready-made article pur*as$ f ! #8,*ur* ,furniture' %op c possess4 ,x is ! concrete embodim5t ( love1 self-d5ial1 & rev]5ce4 ,x br+s be=e our eyes an example ( human tal5t consecrat$ to ! highe/ ends4 ,& x cont9ues a tradition *>act]i/ic ( ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur* ?r\gh\t its hi/ory--"o dat+ back1 inde$1 to ^? m anci5t days :51 9 ! language ( ! ,book ( ,exodus1 #8,all ! wom5 t 7 wise-he>t$ did sp9 ) _! h&s1 & br\ght t :i* !y _h spun1 bo? ( blue1 & ( purple1 & ( sc>let & ( f9e l951' = use & adornm5t 9 ! ,tab]nacle ( ,god4 ,,an?ony ,,deane4 ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,,page ,,preface v ,i4 ,,introductory #a ,,ii4 ,,on ,,mat]ials1 ,,etc4 #c ,,iii4 ,,on ,,m\nt+ ,,frames ,,& ,,trac+ ,,designs #f ,,iv4 ,,on ,,gold-,,"w #i ,v4 ,,on ,,silk-,,"w #ae ,,vi4 ,,on ,,outl9e ,,& ,,appliqu #ba ,,vii4 ,,on ,,figure-,,"w #bi ,,viii4 ,,on ,,liturgical ,,col\rs1 ,,frontals1 ,,etc4 #ci ,,ix4 ,,on ,,! ,,cope ,,& ,,mitre #di ,x4 ,,on ,,eu*>i/ic ,,ve/m5ts1 ,,*alice-,,veil ,,& ,,burse #ec ,,xi4 ,,on ,,bann]s1 ,,etc4 #fe ,,xii4 ,,on ,,! ,,pr9cipal ,,/it*es ,,us$ ,,9 ,,l95-,,"w #gc ,,xiii4 ,,on ,,alt> ,,l95 #gi ,,xiv4 ,,on ,,! ,,albe1 ,,surplice1 ,,etc4 #he ,,conclusion #ia ,,app5dices #ic ,,index #aja ,,*ur* ,,ne$lework ,,*apt] ,i ,,introductory ,?is little book 7f\nd$ on a s]ies ( articles on ,*ur* ,embroid]y writt5 = ! #8,treasury'7 is int5d$ = ! use ( ^? :o are desir\s ( le>n+ by practical exp]im5t h[ to make ! be/ use ( su* "t & skill z !y h at _! comm&2 & :o1 :ile !y are unable to g ?r\gh ! long c\rses ( in/ruction :i* are g5]ally indisp5sable to ! atta9m5t ( p]fection1 are yet anxi\s to devote _! #8lab\r ( love' to ! s]vice ( ! ,*ur*4 ,!re are _m ,guilds & ,associations ( su* work]s ris+ up all ov] ! c\ntry :o are ready & will+ to be taught1 & x is ) ! hope ( assi/+ ^! ef=ts t ,i am (f]+ ! result ( _m ye>s ( /udy & practical exp]i5ce4 ,x is q beyond ! scope ( su* a manual z ?is to g into ! ,hi/ory ( embroid]y 9 g5]al1 or ev5 ( ?is p>ticul> bran* ( x4 ,on ?is po9t !re=e ,i w say no m ?an t x is an und\bt$ fact t f ! ?irte5? to ! fifte5? c5tury ,engli% embroid]y took a lead+ place ?r\gh\t ! :ole ( ,*ri/5dom1 & t f ! fifte5? c5tury onw>d embroid]y began to decl9e z an art till x might almo/ be reckon$ z lo/ to ,engl& until ! middle ( ! n9ete5?4 ,) ^! few facts 9 view x is n difficult to det]m9e :]e to look = ! be/ examples ( ,*ur* embroid]y4 ,x mu/ be among ,museums1 ,picture gall]ies1 & ,collections ( art treasures ( ! be/ p]iods t "o mu/ /udy to improve ! ta/e & cultivate ! intellig5t p]ception ( ! be/ ways ( do+ ?+s1 n s mu* by actual imitation 7al?\gh t might prove an education 9 itself67 z by absorb+ ! _s ( ! "w & see+ h[ & :y x 0 done4 ,i _c too /rongly recomm5d ?is me?od ( le>n+1 & x is to ?is end ,i h us$1 :]ev] possible1 su* examples z are to be f\nd 9 our ,*ur*es1 ,public ,museums1 & ,libr>ies r ?an ^? 9 ! possession ( individual collectors4 ,embroid]y may be def9$ 9 a g5]al way z an ornam5tation ( textiles by means ( ! ne$le4 ,?is be+ ! case1 "o ought to expect f x some?+ diff]5t f :at c be atta9$ by weav+1 or some?+ :i* _c be done s well or s readily by t means4 ,"s ( ! e>lie/ =ms ( embroid]y 71 x is evid5t1 direct copies ( wov5 patt]ns1 b ^! 7 q appropriately plac$1 ei!r on mat]ial :i* did n l5d itself happily to be+ wov5 into patt]ns1 or :]e ! surface s decorat$ 0 too small to be wor? :ile weav+2 or aga91 :]e ! ornam5tal mat]ial 7su* z gold & silk7 0 too preci\s to be lo/ on ! "u-side ( ! "w1 z w\ld be ! case 9 all wov5 "w :]ev] ! #8gr\nd' %[s betwe5 ! patt]ns4 ,! sup]iority we expect to see 9 ne$lework z comp>$ ) wov5 decoration consi/s *iefly 9 ?ree po9ts3-- #a4 ,! m h>moni\s gradation ( col\r4 #b4 ,! abs5ce ( me*anical repetition ( patt]n4 #c4 ,fre$om ( l9e 9 ! draw+4 ,x is ?is v fre$om f me*anical re/ra9t 9 all ^! ?ree respects ( col\r1 design1 & treatm5t :i* has prov$ su* a pit-fall to ! un>ti/ic ,engli% ne$lewoman4 ,mu* ( ! beauty ( ! =eign peasant "w is due to ! re/rictions impos$ by _! traditional /yle & limit$ range ( col\r4 ,!re is practically no limit to ! numb] ( %ades available 9 ! pres5t day1 & )\t a cultivat$ #8col\r-s5se' an embroid]] c run riot among an emb>ras de ri*esse ) mo/ disa/r\s results6 ,a good col\r-s*eme is ev5 m necess>y 9 embroid]y design ?an 9 any o!r 7except1 p]haps1 /a9$ glass7 because ( ! brilliance ( its possibilities--at once its highe/ m]it & its greate/ dang]4 ,! col\r-s*eme1 !n1 be+ an ess5tial "p ( ! design1 mu/ be decid$ ^u 9 accordance ) x2 & ! actual mat]ials ) :i* ! "w is to be c>ri$ out %\ld be *os5 all at ! same "t if possible4 ,x is necess>y = ! design] ( ,*ur* ne$lework to h a v cle> idea ( ! capabilities & ! limitations bo? ( ! me?ods & ! mat]ials by :i* ! design is to be complet$ z a "w ( art1 & also a fair k ( ! traditions ( ecclesia/ical art f e>ly times up to ! pres5t day4 ,x is equally necess>y = ! embroid]] to be able to ent] into ! ideas & int5tions ( ! design]4 ,x adds consid]ably to ! int]e/ ( ! "w :5 x is c>ri$ out by ! p]son :o design$ x1 b ,i mu/ prote/ aga9/ ! notion ga9+ gr\nd l>gely 9 c]ta9 educational circles1 t ! embroid]] ought to design h] own "w4 ,!re are v _m wom5 capable ( execut+ p]fect /it*]y & ( ent]+ into ! highe/ ideals ( beauty & devotion :o are n fitt$ by nature or tra9+ to arti/ic design4 ,! design] = ecclesia/ical art may be comp>$ to ! compos] ( sacr$ oratorios--he ne$s ! co-op]ation ( _m m9ds1 he>ts1 & h&s to p]fect ! realisation ( 8 idea1 & ! _m c\nt x a joy to be l$ by him4 ,! m entire ! sympa?y ?r\gh\t1 ! m p]fect w be ! result4 ,& !y w consid] _! "t & lab\r well-sp5t 9 practis+ = ?is4 ,ev5 s ! embroid]] ) pati5t /it*es w endeav\r to express ! ideal set be=e h] by a ma/] ( ! craft & w meet ) a l rew>d4 ,?is is ! utmo/ t ! majority ( u c hope to atta91 & ,i _c insi/ too /rongly ^u ! /atem5t t x is bett] to "w f ! designs ( good arti/s1 & to d aga9 & aga9 :at has be5 prov$ excell5t1 ?an to attempt an orig9ality :i* may be attractive only by its novelty4 ,:e!r ! work] be h] own design] or n1 too mu* c>e & att5tion c h>dly be be/[$ on ! *oice & arrangem5t ( ! design4 ,! pr9cipal requirem5ts to be fulfill$ are ,beauty1 ,fitness1 & ,practicability4 ,,beauty comes fir/ z x is simply ! raison d'tre ( embroid]y4 ,if decoration does n really add to ! arti/ic value ( ! ?+ x is appli$ to1 x is worse ?an useless z x de/roys a c]ta9 real k9d ( beauty :i* exi/s 9 simplicity4 ,,fitness comes next1 z x almo/ am\nts to an axiom t )\t fitness a ?+ :i* is beautiful 9 "o place may be q ridicul\s or improp] 9 ano!r4 ,& ,,practicability is ess5tial because x is 9 va9 to draw a beautiful design :i* _c be c>ri$ out by ! ne$le & ?read4 ,9 embroid]y ! f9i%$ "w ought always to be m1 n less1 beautiful ?an ! col\r$ draw+4 ,!n !re is ! position x is to occupy--! /yle ( ar*itecture1 me?od ( light+ & am\nt ( light1 size ( ! *ur*1 c4 ,a l>ge *ur* & a d>k *ancel1 = in/ance1 require bold] design & bright] col\r ?an w\ld be suitable = a small *ur* or "o s light$ t e detail is evid5t at a glance4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,on ,,mat]ials1 ,,etc4 ,aft] ! design1 or r 9 conjunction ) x1 comes ! *oice ( ! mat]ials ) :i* to c>ry x out4 ,! only po9t "o c insi/ on is ?is--let !m be ! be/ we c (f]4 ,! be/ does n necess>ily mean ! mo/ exp5sive--b ! mo/ g5u9e & ! mo/ suitable4 ,:e!r ( gold or silk or l951 let !re be no pret5ce ab\t x4 ,if silk ,,damask is *os5 = ! gr\nd ( ! "w 7& !re is no?+ pleasant] to "w on1 or m satisfactory z a backgr\nd if ! design ( ! damask be broad & flat-look+71 let x be a good ri* damask )\t any suspicion ( cotton ab\t x4 ,,sat9 is too %9y & too difficult to keep f puck]+ to make a really arti/ic backgr\nd = l>ge pieces ( embroid]y1 al?\gh a great deal ( ! old "w 0 done on x4 ,x also has ?is disadvantage = ! beg9n]1 t x %[s e m>k ( ! ne$le if %e is un=tunate en\gh to make a mi/ake :i* requires unpick+4 ,,pla9 ,,cord$ ,,silk is try+ to ! eyes to "w ^u1 & is r h>d-look+ & unsympa!tic1 b x makes a good appliqu on sat91 velvet1 or damask4 ,,velvet1 on acc\nt ( its ri*ness & ! dep? ( col\r atta9able )\t giv+ ! impression ( #8blackness1' also f its /r5g? ( contra/ ) e o!r mat]ial1 has always be5 9 great fav\r1 :e!r z a gr\nd or z an onlay4 ,,brocade is too ass]tive to make a good backgr\nd1 b brocade1 & ev5 tape/ry 7:]e ! design is suitable7 may be outl9$ ) gold or cord1 or fur!r enri*$ ) embroid]y ) a truly glori\s effect1 :5 judici\sly manag$4 ,f9e ,,wooll5 ,,clo?1 /\t s]ge1 & diagonal clo? are respectable mat]ials = inexp5sive "w4 ,y>n-dy$ or o!r good ,,col\r$ ,,l95 & ,,unblea*$ ,,twill$ ,,l95 are p>ticul>ly suitable = use 9 ! colonies & = poor *ur*es at home4 ,bo? texture & col\r+ c be obta9$ 9 great p]fection1 & :5 work$ 9 pure flax ?reads1 :i* are also made 9 _m degrees ( ?ickness & almo/ z mu* v>iety ( %ade & col\r z embroid]y silks1 !y w defy ! ravages ( :ite ants abroad & ! poison\s air ( slums at home4 ,,clo?s ,,( ,,gold & ( silv] are truly spl5did1 :e!r z a backgr\nd = embroid]y or to be us$ alone or = orphreys on a pla9] mat]ial4 ,only ! v be/ k9ds %\ld ev] be employ$ = ,*ur* "w1 any ?+ else w look tawdry1 & ev5 ! be/ is apt to t>ni% 9 ! air ( t[ns or ne> ! sea4 ,ne$less to say1 x is always exp5sive4 ,9 all ! specim5s ( anci5t *ur* embroid]ies :i* h come d[n to u1 we f9d a free use ( gold & silv] ?reads3 "s are work$ entirely 9 gold1 o!rs ) a prepond]ance ( ! preci\s metals us$ 9 conjunction ) silk1 :ile a ?ird use 0 to t\* up sali5t po9ts or z an outl9e to glorify ! :ole & br+ x into unity4 ,! pr9cipal k9ds ( gold & silv] ?read n[ 9 use are3-- ,,pass+1 :i* is made ( flat /rips ( gold or silv] twi/$ tightly ov] pure silk2 a firm1 h>d ?read is ! result1 resembl+ wire1 :i* c be obta9$ 9 v>i\s ?icknesses1 g5]ally sold on reels4 ,?is is sewn d[n1 almo/ always two ?reads at a "t1 ) f9e1 /rong sew+-silk4 ,,tamb\r1 mu* ! same z ,pass+1 only f9]1 = sew+ ?r\gh ! mat]ial4 ,,bullion1 ( v>i\s sizes & patt]ns1 is made ( f9e wire1 ev5ly twi/$ 9 a spiral =m )\t any silk core2 usually sold by weight4 ,x is sewn on by fir/ cutt+ into ! l5g?s requir$ & !n #8?read+1' l ! beads call$ #8bugles1' ) a f9e ne$le & silk well wax$4 ,,purl is some:at simil>1 b co>s]1 & )\t a holl[ c5tre4 ,x is sewn d[n by pass+ ! sew+-silk ov] ! ,purl & draw+ x d[n betwe5 ! twi/s ( ! wire4 ,x is us$ m = outl9es ( silk-"w ?an = fill+ spaces4 ,,plate is a flat wire1 us$ *iefly 9 h]aldic embroid]y4 ,x is laid ov] rais$ ?read or /r+1 ) a /it* on ea* side ( ! ?read1 ov] :i* x is turn$ backw>ds & =w>ds till ! ?read is cov]$4 ,9 work+ ,bullion1 ,purl1 & ,plate1 ! silk !y are sewn ) does n come into evid5ce at all4 ,/rong f9e ?read is ev5 bett] to sew !m ) ?an silk2 bo? %\ld be wax$4 ,,japanese ,,gold is ! "o mo/ commonly us$ at pres5t4 ,x is made some?+ l ,pass+1 only a v ?9 pap] is us$ in/ead ( metal to c>ry ! gold ov] ! silk4 ,its *ief virtue is t x does n t>ni% l mo/ ( ! ,pass+4 ,x is also less exp5sive1 & made 9 a great] v>iety ( sizes4 ,its *ief drawback is t :]e !re is mu* we> ! gold rubs (f 9 ! c\rse ( "t1 leav+ only ! r$ or yell[ silk x 0 w\nd on z ! evid5ce ( !re hav+ once be5 gold !re4 ,! ,pass+1 on ! o!r h&1 we>s any l5g? ( "t1 &1 if made ( pure gold1 w\ld be z unt>ni%able z ! ,japanese1 ! excessive co/l9ess be+ ! reason x is s seldom us$4 ,mo/ ( ! ,pass+ is made ( silv] or o!r metal1 gild$ ) pure gold4 ,,*9ese ,,gold is v simil> to ,japanese1 ! *ief diff]5ce be+ t ! pap] us$ is ?9n] & cut 9 n>r[] /rips4 ,x is !re=e s(t]1 & c be made 9 ?9n] ?reads ?an any o!r4 ,x is m easily damag$ ?an ! ,japanese4 ,pass+1 ,japanese1 & ,*9ese gold & silv] are sewn d[n 7g5]ally by two ?reads toge!r7 ) a f9e twi/$ sew+-silk2 ! col\r ( ! silk us$ affects consid]ably ! col\r ( ! gold-"w1 r$ produc+ a f9e copp]y gl[2 gre51 blue1 & violet #8cool+' ! gold2 & yell[ or gold-col\r m]ely int5sify+1 or h>dly modify+ x at all4 ,"s ( ! old "w 0 done 9 solid gold or silv] wire4 ,/rips ( p>*m5t 7 sometimes laid ov] ) gold-leaf & twi/$ ^u silk1 l ! ,japanese & ,*9ese d ) _! pap]4 ,small metal plates1 spangles ( v>i\s %apes & sizes1 7 & are /ill us$ ) good effect :5 9 mod]ation4 ,! silks employ$ are *iefly ,,floss4 ,fr5* floss or #8/\t' floss1 be+ r ?ick & v smoo? & bright1 is useful = l>ge1 bold "w2 #8,bobb91' #8,*ur*1' or f9e floss = f9] "w4 ,decca silk1 :i* has a loose twi/1 may easily be split1 & is useful = ! brilliance ( "s ( ! dyes1 diff]5t f any o!r to be met ) 9 ,european makes4 ,,purse-,,silk is (t5 us$1 c\*$1 9 place ( gold or silv]1 be+ easily manag$ & we>+ well4 ,,filoselle is *iefly useful = edg+ appliqu & = outl9es4 ,,fil(loss answ]s ! same purpose1 & is bright] 9 texture4 ,x c also be us$ = f9e embroid]y by tak+ ! ?reads sep>ately2 b ! slight twi/ 9 ea* ?read makes x less desirable = su* "w ?an ! bobb9 floss4 ,,scissors %\ld be /rong & %>p1 cutt+ accurately at ! po9ts4 ,,?imbles1 ( gold1 silv]1 or ivory1 are at _! be/ :5 worn smoo?4 ,!y %\ld be z pla9 z possible1 z decoration is apt to cat* & r\gh5 ! delicate silks4 ,new ?imbles may be improv$ by rubb+ d[n ) ! f9e/ glass-pap] or a burni%]4 ,! ind5tations %\ld be l>ge4 ,9 framework bo? h&s are us$ & two ?imbles requir$4 ,,ne$les %\ld be procur$ f ! be/ mak]s only1 z *eap ones are apt to cut & r\gh5 ! silk by friction ?r\gh ! eye 9 ! c\rse ( ! "w4 ,if = any reason x may be wor? :ile to improve a ne$le :i* has ?is defect1 x c be done by ! simple process ( ?read+ ! eye ) /rong cotton 7z co>se z x w conv5i5tly c>ry71 dipp+ x into olive oil1 !n into f9e em]y p[d]1 & work+ x backw>ds & =w>ds until x ceases to r\gh54 ,r\nd-ey$ & #8egg-ey$' sew+-ne$les1 crewel & embroid]y1 l>ge-siz$ *5ille1 & occasionally a curv$ 7s-call$ #8circul>'7 ne$le1 are requir$4 ,,p9s %\ld be f9e & z %>p z ne$les4 ,v nice little p9s may be made f f9e ne$les by w>m+ ! eye & /ick+ a little seal+-wax on x = a knob2 b bew>e ( leav+ /eel p9s 9 any "p ( ! "w1 z !y ru/ v quickly & make an #8iron-m\ld' /a94 ,inde$1 x is saf] to use p9s = tempor>y fa/5+s only1 & to put 9 a few /it*es :]ev] requir$ = m ?an a day or two2 brass ones leave a gre5 m>k & silv]-plat$ ones black1 :ile ev5 gold-plat+ soon we>s (f4 ,a small in/rum5t call$ a pi]c] is sometimes us$ to keep gold laid 9 its place1 b a rug-ne$le1 or ! eye ( ! *5ille ne$le1 w d z well4 ,a good /iletto1 a pair ( compasses1 a ,t-squ>e & a set-squ>e1 a rul]1 measure1 & trac] conclude ! li/ ( implem5ts necess>y to ! ,*ur* embroid]] besides ! frame4 ,!re are sev]al k9ds ( ,,embroid]y-,,frame :i* h be5 inv5t$ f "t to "t to save tr\ble or to /ret* m ev5ly ?an ! ones 9 g5]al use1 b ! two /ill mo/ commonly to be met ) are ! old flat-b> & screw-b> frames4 ,! =m] c be re/$ on tre/les :5 l>ge1 or support$ on ! edge ( a table & kept 9 place ) weights :5 small2 ^? ) screw sides are g5]ally m\nt$ ^u /&s ( _! own4 ,= "w n exce$+ #cj in*es squ>e ,i f9d ! screw-frame ! mo/ conv5i5t2 x c be adju/$ to any angle1 s t ! work] has no ne$ to b5d ov] x1 be+ able to see h] "w )\t ef=t1 bo? z a :ole & 9 detail4 ,to sit = _m h\rs at a frame :i* lies horizontal is apt to injure ! sp9e 7:5ev] !re is ! lea/ feel+ ( ov]-/ra9 ! "w %\ld be discont9u$74 ,x is1 moreov]1 bad = ! eyes1 =c+ ! vision into an unnatural focus4 ,! small screw-frame on a /& c be clamp$ to a table or held 9 ! lap1 & is almo/ equally com=table to "w at4 ,,tamb\r-,,frames & rigid wire-frames may be us$ = v small pieces ( "w4 ,! light %\ld always fall ^u ! "w f beh9d1 ov] ei!r %\ld] ( ! p]son4 ,due att5tion to ^! po9ts 7i4e4 a com=table position & prop] light7 w\ld prev5t mu* ( ! we>9ess & actual injury to ! physique = :i* ,*ur* embroid]y is (t5 consid]$ responsible2 n always1 ,i regretfully admit1 )\t "s f\ndation 9 fact4 ,/ill1 ! majority ( ^! cases h _! own c>elessness to accuse1 consid]+ ^! re/rictions to be m]e details :i* may be safely ignor$ in/ead ( tak+ ! tr\ble to =m a habit ( do+ ev]y?+ 9 ! be/ possible way4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,on ,,m\nt+ ,,frames ,,& ,,trac+ ,,designs ,a great deal ( ,*ur* embroid]y is done1 = conv5i5ce 9 work+1 on l951 9 small frames1 & aft]w>ds cut out & transf]r$ to ! ri*] mat]ial1 silk1 velvet1 clo?-(-gold1 or :atev] x may be4 ,great c>e %\ld be ex]cis$ 9 ! *oice ( ! l951 :i* %\ld be unblea*$ & closely & ev5ly wov51 co>se or f9e1 accord+ to ! nature ( ! "w to be done on x4 ,! inexp]i5c$ w\ld d well to buy _! l95 n f drap]s1 b f ! be/ embroid]y %ops1 /at+ = :at purpose !y require x1 :e!r = heavy gold-"w1 f9e floss1 c4 ,illu/ration ,to /ret* ! l95 on to ! frame1 cut ! l951 #8by ! ?read1' r wid] ?an ! webb+ :i* is atta*$ to two b>s ( ! frame4 ,turn d[n ! edges ev5ly4 ,run a piece ( /r+ into ! two sides t are go+ to be lac$ ^u ! o!r two b>s4 ,! l95 %\ld n[ be a little n>r[] ?an ! l5g? ( ! webb+1 to :i* l5g? x is n[ /ret*$ by a p9 at ea* end & "o 9 ! middle4 ,ov]-sew ! l95 to ! webb+ firmly ) /rong l95 ?read2 remove ! p9s2 roll up till ! l95 is a little %ort] ?an ! side b>s4 ,ins]t ! ends ( ^! into ! holes provid$1 & /ret* ev5ly ei!r by pegs1 or1 9 ! case ( screw-frames1 by screw+ up ! wood5 screw-nuts 7:i* ought to h be5 previ\sly plac$ z ne> ! c5tral blocks z !y w\ld g74 ,lace up ! sides ( ! l95 tightly & ev5ly1 ) good /r+1 fa/5+ ea* end firmly4 ,! l95 is n[ ready to receive ! design1 or1 if ! "w is to be done ^u silk or velvet1 t is put on n[1 ov] ! l954 ,loos5 ! frame a little1 ei!r by unscrew+ a turn or two1 or by mov+ pegs4 ,p9 ea* corn] ( ! silk on to ! l951 /ret*+ ! silk a v little tight] ?an ! l952 sew all r\nd ) f9e1 /rong silk1 or ?read1 & tight5 up ! frame aga9 aft] x is on4 ,! design mu/ be well )9 ! size ( ! m\nt$ l954 ,two /raight l9es1 cross+ ea* o!r at "r angles 9 ! c5tre1 %\ld next be run into ! l95 ) f9e silk1 "r across f end to end1 z a guide = trac+4 ,simil> l9es %\ld be drawn lightly on ! trac+2 bo? sets ( l9es & angles mu/ be accurate2 !y are easily done by means ( a #8set-squ>e4' ,transf]r+4 ,!re are _m ways ( transf]r+ a design to ! mat]ial x is to be work$ ^u4 ,! easie/ & lea/ satisfactory is by means ( #8iron+ (f' transf]s4 ,?is limits "o to ! /ock patt]ns1 (t5 ( v inf]ior arti/ic value1 :i* c be b\ght at ! %ops4 ,! process gives a smoo? ev5 l9e1 r ?ick1 :i* mu/ be all[$ = 9 *oos+ ! design1 z x mu/ be well cov]$ 9 ! work+4 ,x is only suitable = fairly simple & bold designs4 ,! easie/ me?od by :i* orig9al designs c be transf]r$ is by ! use ( c>bon pap]4 ,! blue is ! mo/ satisfactory1 ! pap] ( :i* is ?9 & blue on bo? sides1 b ( c\rse x does n %[ up well on a d>k gr\nd4 ,be=e us+1 :5 new1 x %\ld be laid flat on a table1 & rubb$ all ov] ) a piece ( co>se flannel4 ,!re is also a f9e gre5 & a yell[1 ei!r ( :i* is bett] = v delicately col\r$ gr\nd4 ,black %\ld nev] be us$1 & ,i h n hi!rto met ) a really satisfactory :ite c>bon pap] at all4 ,! design %\ld be accurately trac$ on good trac+-clo?1 especial c>e be+ tak5 ) all geometrical =ms1 :i* %\ld always be drawn ) ma!matical precision2 ! slighte/ inaccuracy g5]ally seems to reappe> at #8comp\nd int]e/4' ,x is a good plan :5 practicable to leave any l>ge circles t may =m "p ( ! design untrac$ till aft] ! great] "p ( ! embroid]y is done1 & 9 any case to te/ !m ) compasses4 ,hav+ !n a p]fect draw+ to />t )1 see t ! c5tre fits to c5tre & rectangul> l9es correspond ) ! same l9es on ! frame1 & p9 x c>efully 9 place ) f9e /eel p9s4 ,place a piece ( c>bon pap] betwe5 ! trac+ & ! mat]ial 9 ! frame1 & !n g ov] all ! l9es ( ! trac+ firmly & cle>ly ) a well %>p5$ ,h4,b4 p5cil or an onyx trac]4 ,a porcup9e quill or a good knitt+-ne$le w make a v fair sub/itute = ! onyx4 ,! work] mu/ be> 9 m9d t pressure ^u any "p ( ! surface :i* has c>bon pap] und]nea? w leave a m>k ^u ! mat]ial1 & !re=e %\ld be c>eful n to re/ ! h& ^u x or make false l9es or p9-m>ks4 ,a h&-re/ c easily be arrang$1 if "o be f\nd necess>y1 by plac+ a block ( wood or a few books on ! table on ea* side ( ! frame & lay+ a bo>d on ! top4 ,x is also important t ! und]nea? "p ( ! l95 9 ! frame %\ld be 9 imm$iate contact ) "s h>d1 smoo? surface1 su* z plate-glass or a h>d poli%$ bo>d1 be=e beg9n+ to trace ! design4 ,ano!r me?od ( transf]r+ designs is ! "t-hon\r$ "o ( p\nc+4 ,! draw+ %\ld be on t\gh pap] or p>*m5t4 ,p9-holes are prick$ all along ! l9es ( ! draw+ at pretty close int]vals2 a ?9 %eet ( cork or h>d felt laid "u ! p>*m5t prev5ts creas+ or crack+4 ,! pr9cipal l9es may be prick$ ) a l>g] p9 ?an ! small details4 ,:5 ! patt]n is suffici5tly prick$ out x is p9n$ to ! mat]ial1 & col\r$ *alk 9 f9e p[d] dabb$ ?r\gh ! p9holes4 ,! draw+ mu/ !n be v c>efully remov$1 & ! dott$ l9es :i* result f ! p\nc+ gone ov] ) a f9e sable bru% ) ,*9ese :ite1 or any good wat]-col\r1 mix$ ) a little pure gum-arabic & a trace ( ox-gall4 ,ano!r way is to trace ! design 9 ink ^u l5o or t>latan1 &1 aft] p9n+ x 9 place z be=e1 g ov] ! l9es ) a /rong quill or rul+ p51 us+ ,*9ese :ite or wat]-col\rs z be=e2 ?is also gives only a dott$ l9e1 b is q suffici5t = co>se "w1 & is ! be/ me?od ,i am acqua9t$ ) = trac+ on ?ick wooll5 mat]ial4 ,yet ano!r me?od suitable = delicate mat]ial & n too complicat$ design is to take an extra trac+ ( ! patt]n on ?9 pap]1 & aft] tack+ ! edges ( ! pap] d[n to ! silk on ! frame1 /it* r\nd ! outl9e ( ! design ) f9e sew+ silk ( any col\r t w %[ up on ! gr\nd4 ,:5 all is ?us m>k$ out1 te> away ! pap]1 leav+ ! /it*es ^u ! silk4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,on ,,gold-,,"w ,we w n[ proce$ to describe "s ( ! mo/ useful /it*es & h[ to d !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,sampl] ,p]haps x w be be/ to beg9 ) a ,gold ,sampl]4 ,"s ( ! ri*e/ & mo/ beautiful examples1 bo? anci5t & mod]n1 h be5 work$ entirely 9 gold2 & x is enc\rag+ to ! beg9n] n to h ! complications ( col\rs & v>i\s silks1 c41 to cont5d ) at ! same "t1 z x leaves ! m9d free to conc5trate itself on ! atta9m5t ( a good te*nique1 :i* 9 embroid]y1 l ev]y?+ else wor?y to be call$ art1 _c be accompli%$ )\t a good deal ( practice4 ,a brilliant effect ) bad workman%ip is n a ?+ impossible1 b 9 "w int5d$ = ! decoration ( ! ,sanctu>y x is ev5 m to be deplor$ ?an 9 m mundane ?+s2 ?\gh embroid]y ( all sorts n be+ a necess>y "w1 !re is no excuse = do+ badly 9 any circum/ances4 ,x is a mi/ake to ?9k t "t & mat]ial sp5t on practice are wa/$4 ,if our fir/ attempts 7 look$ ^u z scales & ex]cises1 z a means to an end1 !y w\ld n be s grudg+ly p]=m$ z !y too (t5 are4 ,! ,,sampl] ,i h prep>$ is int5d$ to illu/rate bo? ! /it*es !mselves & also ! me?od ( apply+ !m to ! =ms !y are to fill4 ,x is be/ to practise !m fir/ on simpl] =ms1 & !n1 :5 m exp]t1 to fit !m into ! v>i\s curves & spaces4 ,! sampl] %\ld be drawn mu* l>g] ?an x is "h repres5t$--say ab\t #aj #g in*es--& might be plac$ on ! l95 9 ! frame z sket*$1 leav+ a good space bel[ & at ! side = practice4 ,if ! frame is #bj in*es long1 or l>g] /ill1 x w hold ?is sampl] & ! next "o4 ,x is a good ?+ to h a nice set ( sampl]s to keep1 z "o (t5 f9ds x necess>y to be rem9d$ ( suitable /it*es1 :i* w n always come to m9d :5 want$4 ,!y c be made up into a blott]1 book-cov]1 or "w-bag1 c41 :5 f9i%$4 ,illu/ration3 ,! ,frame1 ) ,sampl]1 c4 ,simple ,,c\*+ 7,a 9 ! illu/ration7 is work$ ?us3 ,loos5 a y>d or two ( gold ?read out ( ! ske9 & b5d x 9 ! middle4 ,h ready an ord9>y ne$le1 ?read$ ) gold sew+-silk 7! k9d sold 9 l>ge ske9s by weight is ! be/71 & ) x sew ! d\bl$ end firmly d[n2 draw ! ne$le d[n to ! "u side1 & br+ x up aga9 ab\t a qu>t] ( an in* f ! beg9n+2 lay ! two ?reads ( gold ev5ly along1 & put a /it* at "r angles ) ! gold ov] bo? ! ?reads toge!r4 ,?is is repeat$ to ! end ( ! r[4 ,at ! end ea* ?read is sewn sep>ately 9 place & turn$ %>ply back1 !n /it*$ at regul> int]vals z be=e1 only ea* /it* mu/ be plac$ betwe5 ! ones =m]ly done4 ,if ! space to be fill$ is n v long1 x is usual to take only "o ?read to />t )1 in/ead ( d\bl+ x into two1 &1 aft] draw+ ! end ( ! gold ?r\gh to ! #8wrong' side ( ! "w1 fa/5 x firmly1 & beg9 at ! o!r end ( ! r[ ea* "t4 ,?is me?od has ! advantage ( mak+ a less clumsy turn+1 & !re=e a bett] edge to ! "w1 z !re is only "o ?read to d\ble back e "t in/ead ( two4 ,also1 ! gold is m easily made to lie smoo?ly1 z ! /it*es cross x con/antly f ! same side & 9 ! direction 9 :i* ! gold is twi/$--f left to "r :5 beg9n+ f ! "r at ! bottom1 z 9 a a2 f "r to left :5 begun at ! top left z 9 ,a4 ,gold & silv] are ne>ly always sewn d[n two ?reads at a "t 7! beg9n+ & end only be+ drawn ?r\gh ! mat]ial & sewn d[n at ! back ( ! "w71 & unless o!rwise direct$ x w be s und]/ood ?r\gh\t4 ,9 a great deal ( mod]n gold "w ! gold ?read is cut (f close at ! end ( ea* r[1 & ! cut edge aft]w>ds cov]$ by two ?reads be+ sewn all r\nd x4 ,i d n recomm5d ?is plan myself1 z ,i h too (t5 se5 x 9 aft]-ye>s ) ! ends visible 9 a v undesirable mann]4 ,x is true x makes a m ev5 outl9e1 b1 if done well1 ! turn$ edges c be cov]$ ev5ly & )\t difficulty :5 requir$2 & (t5 ! slightly s]rat$ edge itself is beautiful & *>act]i/ic1 z = in/ance 9 o o & i1 illu/rat$ bel[4 ,:5 v f9e gold ?read is us$ x may be drawn ?r\gh to ! back at ea* end ( a r[ 7)\t be+ cut (f7 & ! turn+ done !re4 ,! way ?is is accompli%$ is by br++ ! ne$le up f ! back1 cross+ ! gold ?read ov] ) ! sew+-silk & s5d+ ! ne$le d[n aga9 ?r\gh ! exact spot x came out at4 ,! gold be+ held r loose & ! silk pull$ tight1 x w c>ry x d[n ?r\gh ! /uff j bel[ ! surface--! ne$le employ$ %\ld be r ?ick] ?an = sew+4 ,9 ! sampl] all ! edges are cov]$ ) two or ?ree ?reads sewn d[n closely ov] !m1 b 9 ! detail$ examples ,i h left !m b>e to %[ ! work+ bett]4 ,! gold ?read mu/ n be all[$ to get untwi/$ s z to %[ ! inn] core ( silk2 & x %\ld lie q smoo?ly1 hav+ almo/ ! appe>ance ( wire1 ! silk /it*es be+ drawn tightly en\gh to keep x /eady1 b n s z to make ind5tations & de/roy ! smoo? ev5ness ( ! surface4 ,if x wants /rok+ into position1 a little in/rum5t call$ a pi]c] is us$1 b ! l>ge *5ille ne$le us$ = draw+ ! ends ( ! gold ?r\gh ! l95 w answ] v well1 or a good /iletto4 ,x w be se51 z soon z a few r[s are done1 t ! silk /it*es make a sort ( little brick patt]n on ! gold4 ,?is effect is made use ( by ! +5i\s embroidress to produce _m a beautiful & fanciful diap]4 ,! patt]ns may be v>i$ to almo/ any ext5t by means ( diff]5t int]vals regul>ly left betwe5 ! /it*es4 ,"h are a few examples3 ,b1 ,c1 & ,d on ! sampl]4 ,! middle ( ! p9e is fill$ ) a diap] l b1 & ! two upp] halves ( ! leaves m>k$ ,d c be fill$ ) c or d4 ,x is desirable to "w !m ) diff]5t col\r$ silks1 su* z r$1 gre51 yell[1 c41 9 r /rong %ades1 t ! full effect ( ! diap] may appe>1 ?us also w be demon/rat$ ! v rem>kable effect ( ! diff]5t sew+ silks ^u ! metal already allud$ to above4 ,no4 #ih 7& o!rs on ! same scre57 9 ! ,v4 & ,a4 ,museum1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 may be ref]r$ to z specim5s ( ! am\nt ( col\r t may be obta9$ 9 ?is mann]4 ,"s ( ! metallic ?reads are also twi/$ ov] ) f9e col\r$ silks to int5sify ?is effect4 ,e1 ,f1 ,g1 & ,o on ! sampl] are to %[ ! effect ( direction 9 ! l9es ( ! gold--an important pr9ciple1 :i* w be fur!r illu/rat$1 9 ! case ( silk "w1 by ! direction ( ! /it*es4 ,diff]5ce ( tone is got by ! col\r ( silk ) :i* ! gold is sewn d[n2 an app>5t diff]5ce ( relief by ! direction 9 :i* x lies4 ,9 ,e a s+le ?read is drawn ?r\gh ! l95 7ab\t half an in* is en\gh to take ?r\gh & fa/5 at ! back7 9 ! c5tre ( ea* petal 7see e71 & turn$ r\nd to make z ne>ly a circle z possible1 ! gold ?read laid r\nd ?is c5tre twice & sewn d[n1 two ?reads at a "t1 till ! outl9e is rea*$4 ,x w be evid5t1 aft] a few r\nds are done1 t if ! /it*es are plac$ 9 exact alt]nation !y w be gett+ s f> ap>t z to fail 9 keep+ ! gold 9 place4 ,to obviate ?is1 z soon z !y are ne>ly twice z f> ap>t z ! av]age di/ance1 two /it*es mu/ be put betwe5 ea*1 in/ead ( "o4 ,illu/ration ,f f is j tak5 backw>ds & =w>ds z at ,a a4 ,! effect ( ,g g is obta9$ by plac+ ! /it*es at e r\nd a little to "o side ( ! previ\s ones1 in/ead ( exactly betwe5 !m4 ,h on ! sampl] is %[n at h above4 ,! gold ?read is begun at ! base ( "o ( ! petals1 & f !nce tak5 /raight up to ! top & work$ ov]1 putt+ "o /it* 9 ! c5tre ( ea* r[ & tak+ ! ?read backw>ds & =w>ds till ! bottom ( ! petal is rea*$1 :5 x is tak5 up to ! top ( ! next petal & left to lie "u ! "w z be=e4 ,x is be/ to keep x to ! same side ( ea* petal1 or to place ! c5tral /it* betwe5 ! two ?reads ( gold1 z x raises ! gold slightly1 & :5 done ) me?od x looks int5tional4 ,x is conv5i5t because !re is less cutt+ (f & beg9n+ aga94 ,at ! edges ( ! petal ! gold may be turn$ at ! back ( ! "w 9 ! mann] describ$ on p4 #aj above4 ,?is slight rais+ ( ! gold1 z x 7 by accid5t or = conv5i5ce1 br+s u to ! consid]ation ( rais$ "w1 & ! "q ( h[ f> high relief 9 embroid]y is desirable4 ,?is be+ ess5tially a practical treatise1 ,i _c n[ ent] into ! argum5ts = & aga9/ its use1 b may j rem>k t relief1 h[ev] slight1 acc5tuates ! #8value' ( ! gold1 z x draws extra light ^u its already brilliant surface1 caus+ at ! same "t extra %ad[s1 & ?us adds to ! ri*ness ( ! g5]al effect1 :ile x takes away some?+ ( its delicacy4 ,! design] mu/ decide h[ & :5 x is requir$4 ,! slightly rais$ foliation 9 ! sampl]1 m>k$ ,i1 is done by tack+ d[n p>*m5t or yell[ clo?1 cut c>efully ab\t ! sixte5? ( an in* )9 ! l9es ( ! trac+1 & !n work+ ! gold ?read ov] x 79 ! same mann] z at ,h7 ) "o r[ ( /it*+ only1 to cat* x d[n 9 ! middle4 ,see i4 ,n is rais$ to ! highe/ degree p]missible by sew+ d[n bits ( /r+ 7cut well )9 ! size71 fir/ ) f9e silk1 & !n work+ ov] !m1 to get a smoo? surface1 ) /uff+ cotton1 & la/ly1 cov]+ all ) yell[ clo? be=e c\*+ ! gold4 n %[s ! process = work+ ! rais$ r\nd2 o!r %apes are done ! same way4 ,!re are v>i\s me?ods ( padd+ = high relief4 ,cotton-wool is us$ by "s1 & cork1 c41 by o!rs4 ,i f9d ! "o ,i h describ$ ! mo/ satisfactory1 z x c be made q firm & 9 high relief )\t be+ s h>d & #8unsympa!tic' z ! m me*anical me?ods4 ,! padd+ %\ld always be small] ?an ! f9i%$ "w is int5d$ to be4 ,x %\ld be done z nicely & smoo?ly z ?\gh x 7 n go+ to be cov]$ ov] aft]w>ds4 ,! la/ lay] ( /it*es work$ 9 ! #8/uff+ cotton' %\ld be done 9 ! opposite direction to t 9 :i* ! gold is to be laid 7see n#b1 :]e ! cotton is %[n ne>ly half done1 n#a be+ ! f9i%$ gold "w74 ,j is "o ( ! mo/ popul> ( gold /it*es4 ,x is %[n at j 9 /raight l9es1 & %\ld be well practis$ ?us be=e attempt+ to apply x to curv$ ones4 ,r[s ( /r+ are sewn d[n at regul> int]vals till ! space is cov]$ :i* is to be fill$ ) basket-"w4 ,note t 9 a curv$ figure ! /r+s mu/ be plac$ ne>] toge!r on ! inn] l9e ?an on ! out]4 ,! gold is !n c\*$ d[n ov] ! /r+1 be+ sewn ) /rong silk1 :i* w keep x d[n1 betwe5 e two b>s ( /r+4 ,! next r[ is done ! same4 ,! two r[s foll[+ h _! silk /it*es plac$ betwe5 ! =m] ones4 ,! next two are l ! fir/1 & s on till ! space is fill$4 ,k is a little m complicat$4 ,! fir/ two r[s h ?ree b>s ( /r+ cov]$ at a "t2 !n two & "o alt]nately = "o r[2 !n ?ree aga94 ,a great _m v>iations ( ?is c be made simply by cov]+ m or few] b>s at a "t1 or1 aga91 by sew+ d[n m or few] r[s ( gold at ! same int]vals4 ,! pr9ciple ( ! basket-"w is ! same 9 all4 ,! /em 9 ! sampl]1 m>k$ ,l1 & ! ornam5t at ! bottom are work$ ov] /r+ sewn diagonally ov] ! space to be cov]$1 z may be se5 at l4 ,! /it*es made 9 sew+ d[n ! gold g 9 /eps1 n diagonally1 b at "r angles1 z 9 all ! o!rs1 "o /it* on ea* side ( ! b>4 ,! gold may be laid 9 s+le ?reads4 ,q is prep>$ by sew+ small squ>e pieces ( yell[ clo? or p>*m5t 9 *equ]s ov] ! gr\nd1 & !n cov]+ ) ! gold1 sew+ d[n ! latt] r closely ) silk /it*es 9 ! spaces left1 & putt+ no /it*es on ! rais$ "p4 ,any %ape may be plac$ "u gold 9 ?is way4 ,9 mu* ( ! m$ieval "w ar*itectural surr\nd+s & backgr\nds to figures 7 v elaborately execut$1 ) ! same gold ?reads us$ 9 ! drap]y ( ! figures !mselves1 be+ c>ri$ /raight across 9 horizontal l9es ov] /r+1 c41 & sewn d[n v closely ) diff]5t col\rs4 ,! rais$ ve9s 9 ! leaves 7,p 9 ! sampl]7 are done ) #8plate4' ,/r+ is laid d[n fir/1 cut to a %>p po9t1 & sewn ov] ) /uff+ cotton1 work$ diagonally or ) sev]al /r&s ( x laid smoo?ly ov] ! /r+ & kept 9 place ) a few /it*es ( f9e silk4 ,! plate is begun at ! top1 ) a /it* to keep x firm1 & !n ) "o at ea* side x is turn$ backw>ds & =w>ds till x is f9i%$4 ,! little b>s across ! /ems are ( bullion1 sewn on ) /rong wax$ silk or ?read4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,on ,,silk-,,"w ,illu/ration3 ,sampl] ,al?\gh ! =ego+ *apt] 0 devot$ exclusively to ! description & illu/ration ( ! /it*es mo/ g5]ally us$ 9 gold-"w1 mo/ ( !m c ) equal propriety be work$ 9 silk4 ,b ! rev]se does n hold good3 !re are _m /it*es useful = silk & ?read1 c41 :i* _c well be work$ ) gold1 because ! ne$le & ?read are tak5 "r ?r\gh ! mat]ial1 f ! upp] to ! "u side & up aga91 9 & out1 all ! "t2 :]eas ne>ly all gold-"w is done on ! surface1 ! beg9n+ & end only ( ! gold be+ tak5 ?r\gh ! mat]ial4 ,x is true t 9 "s ( ! old embroid]y1 flat /rips ( metal 7 sometimes work$ ?r\gh ! /uff1 also ?9 solid wire1 & ! f9e tamb\r is /ill us$ 9 ! same way2 b x is n practicable to any ext5t ) ,japanese gold1 or pass+2 :ile purl & bullion1 be+ 9 ! =m ( a holl[ coil1 are obvi\sly unsuitable = be+ drawn ?r\gh ! surface z ?read4 ,x w\ld also involve an unnecess>y wa/e ( gold to take x ?r\gh ! /uff & leave x beh9d ea* /it*4 ,! accompany+ sampl] does n include any ( ! /it*es %[n 9 ! =m] "o1 except c\*+4 ,al?\gh1 9 pr9ciple & 9 me?od ( work+1 c\*+ is ! same1 :e!r x be c>ri$ out 9 silk or 9 gold1 yet1 ! effect be+ v diff]5t1 x seems desirable to repeat x "h4 ,x is introduc$ also = ! purpose ( po9t+ out cle>ly ! diff]5ce betwe5 x & ano!r /it* :i* 9 "s circum/ances looks v simil>1 b is work$ 9 q ano!r way & is call$ #8,laid-"w4' ,9 bo? c\*+ & laid-"w ! pr9cipal ?reads lie on ! surface & are sewn d[n ) auxili>y /it*es by means ( a sep>ate ne$le & ?read4 ,9 c\*+1 ^! /it*es are plant$ at %ort int]vals1 all along ! l9e1 on ea* r[ ( ?reads1 :ile !y are be+ plac$2 b 9 laid-"w ! :ole surface is cov]$ fir/1 & ! few /it*es requir$ to keep ! mass ( silk 9 place are add$ aft]w>ds4 ,c\*+ is g5]ally work$ 9 solid heavy ?reads1 su* z gold & silv]1 purse-silk1 cord & filoselle1 :ile laid-"w is only suitable = floss1 its *ief m]it be+ ! p]fection ) :i* x %[s ! bright %e5 ( t beautiful silk4 ,x is light & s(t 9 effect & a v exp$iti\s means ( cov]+ a l>ge surface4 ,x does n we> v well unless caught d[n at frequ5t int]vals ) ! c\*+ or o!r ov]-/it*+1 z 9 ! example 7p4 #fc7 ( a *alice-veil at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 :]e all ! foliage is done 9 laid-"w1 ! #8laid' /it*es go+ across ! leaves & ! c\*+ foll[+ ! curves1 indicat+ simple ve9+4 ,bo? laid & c\*$ "w1 :5 us$ z a fill+1 are be/ adapt$ to decid$ly conv5tional designs1 laid-"w especially to broad & flat effects1 & c\*+ to outl9es4 ,al?\gh %ad+ & ev5 an appe>ance ( modell+ to a slight degree may be legitimately obta9$ by ! plac+ ( diff]5t %ades ( silk side by side & by ! direction ( ! und]ly+ & ov]-/it*+ silks1 /ill x is n well to attempt too mu* 9 ?is direction1 z !re are _m o!r /it*es m suitable2 & /it*es1 l o!r ?+s1 are mu* m beautiful :5 9 _! natural & prop] place ?an :5 =c$ into a position = :i* !y are unfit4 ,?is sampl] is int5d$ to be work$ 9 col\r$ silks4 ,i w m5tion !m by _! numb]s on ,pe>sall's col\r-c>d ,no4 ,,ii41 z x c be b\ght or ref]r$ to at any ord9>y ne$lework %op1 & !re=e seems ! mo/ practicable means ( expla9+ ab\t %ades1 c41 to ^? :o h nev] us$ floss silk be=e4 ,:ile to o!rs ,i w\ld say x is c]ta9ly n necess>y to use ^! p>ticul> col\rs1 or ?is p>ticul> make ( floss1 s long z ! silk is good1 ! col\rs h>monis+ ) ea* o!r1 & be+ suffici5tly di/9ct 9 %ade to avoid confusion4 ,?ree %ades ( blue1 ,nos4 #da1 #db1 & #dc2 f\r %ades ( a bronze-gre51 ,nos4 #aab1 #aac1 #aac;,a1 #aac;,b2 ?ree %ades ( a grey] gre51 ,nos4 #aac;,a1 #acd1 #ace2 a s(t r$di%-br[n1 ,no4 #aje1 & "o ( gold-col\r1 ,no4 #ib1 are sugge/$ = ?is sampl]4 ,l95 ?read may be us$ in/ead ( silk1 on a col\r$ or a :ite l95 gr\nd1 = practice1 b x is necess>y = ! embroidress to get us$ to work+ 9 floss#a f ! fir/1 because x is always ne$$ = ! be/ & ri*e/ "w1 & x requires a great deal ( practice be=e x c be dext]\sly h&l$4 ,ornam5tal r+s1 bracelets1 c41 %\ld n be worn :5 work+ ) floss silk1 p>ticul> att5tion mu/ be giv5 to keep ! h&s 9 good condition1 clean & smoo?2 x is a good plan1 if !y are apt to get r\gh1 to rub 9 "o or two drops ( pure glyc]9e aft] wa%+ 9 hot wat] be=e dry+ !m4 ,! h&s %\ld !n be rubb$ p]fectly dry ) a l95 t[el4 ,if1 on ! o!r h&1 !y are at all incl9$ to be moi/1 !y %\ld be frequ5tly wa%$ 9 wat] z hot z x c be borne1 !n dipp$ into cold wat]1 rubb$ dry1 & la/ly du/$ ov] ) boracic p[d]4 ,c>bolic1 sulphur1 ars5ical or o!r #8complexion' soaps %\ld nev] be us$ be=e work+ ) ei!r gold or silv] or v delicate silks2 inde$1 x is safe/ to use none b pure vegetable soaps z free f *emicals z possible4 ,a f9e :ite-l95 apron ) a bib & sleeves1 or an #8ov]all1' %\ld always be worn1 & ! "w kept cov]$ ) a s(t silk or l95 h&k]*ief4 ,too mu* c>e _c be tak5 ) floss silk1 z x is apt to cat* 9 ev]y?+ x comes ne> & is v easily damag$4 ,= ! same reason ! ne$lefuls %\ld n be long1 & if ! silk be b\ght 9 ske9s x %\ld be c>efully w\nd at once1 on smoo? reels or c>ds1 keep+ a sep>ate "o = ea* %ade1 :i* %\ld be duly nam$ & numb]$4 ,( all ! /it*es :i* are work$ ) silk1 ,i ?9k ,,sat9-,,/it*1 ) its _m (f%oots & v>iations1 is ! =emo/ bo? = usefulness & beauty4 ,! smoo? brightness ( ! surface2 ! clean-cut outl9e x makes ( itself1 :5 nicely done1 requir+ no?+ fur!r to f9i% x (f2 ! ease ) :i* %ades & col\rs melt & bl5d 9 s(t gradations or bold effects1 make x ! /it* p> excell5ce = floss-silk "w1 :e!r co>se or f9e4 ,illu/ration ,! ,fl[] m>k$ ,a on ! sampl] is work$ ?us3-- ,take a ne$leful ( ! pale/ ( ! ?ree %ades ( blue floss & run r\nd ! trac$ outl9e ( ! upp] portion ( "o ( ! petals4 ,nev] beg9 ) a knot1 b run a few /it*es into a "p t w be cov]$ aft]w>ds2 to fa/5 x firmly j take a back-/it* & d n cut (f ! end till y h work$ a few m /it*es2 always beg9 & end a ne$leful on ! #8"r side' ( ! "w s z to h no loose ends at ! back4 ,!n br+ ! ne$le up f beh9d to ! surface ne> ! c5tre ( ! petal2 set x 9 j ov] ! outl9e at ! top2 draw x d[n ) "o h& & set x 9 ) ! o!r4 7,x ought to become1 by practice1 a matt] ( indiff]5ce :i* h& is at any "t above & :i* bel[47 ,! next /it* mu/ be %ort]1 ! next long]1 & s on till ! edge ( ! petal is rea*$4 ,! o!r half ( ! petal is fill$ 9 ! same way1 beg9n+ f ! middle1 & keep+ ! ends ( ! /it*es ev5 along ! top & q irregul> along ! bottom ( ! r[4 ,! /it*es %\ld be j s close toge!r z to make a firm cle> edge )\t ei!r ov]cr[d+ or ?9 weak places4 ,! next r[ is done ) ! middle %ade ( blue2 aft] fa/5+ ! end ( ! ?read1 take ! ne$le ?r\gh to ! back1 !n br+ x up betwe5 ! two long middle /it*es & ab\t halfway f ! top1 set x 9 aga9 to make a /it* ab\t ! same l5g? z ! o!rs 71 & cont9ue work+ 9 ! same way2 ! only diff]5ce betwe5 ! fir/ r[ & ! second be+ t ! second is work$ f ! upp] "p d[nw>ds & t bo? ends ( ! /it*es are irregul> 9 l5g? in/ead ( only ! l[] ends4 ,also !re w be few] /it*es 9 ea* r[ z !y get ne>] ! bottom4 ,! numb] ( r[s requir$ w dep5d on ! size ( ! petal1 s w ! actual l5g? ( ! /it*es4 ,to give "s idea ( ! proportion1 ,i w suppose ?is petal to be an in* & a half 9 l5g? & an in* & a half 9 wid? at ! wide/ "p2 ! /it*es w\ld !n be f a half to ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* long at ! longe/2 x w\ld take f\r r[s ( /it*es1 & !re w\ld be ab\t ?irty ( !m 9 ! top r[ ( ! petal :5 us+ ! full ?ickness ( ,pe>sall's #8,/\t ,floss4' ,! c5tral /it*es %\ld all be v]tical1 & all ! o!rs radiat+--t is1 slant+ outw>ds1 t[>ds ! edge ( ! petal2 ?is direction ( ! /it*es mu/ be v c>efully manag$1 n to be too sudd5 9 *ange1 & ! r[s ( /it*es %\ld #8dovetail1' z x 71 into ea* o!r4 ,9 ?is example two r[s ( ! middle %ade are us$1 & only "o ea* ( ! lighte/ & d>ke/4 ,?is application ( sat9-/it* is kn[n by a numb] ( o!r names1 su* z #8,long-&-%ort' /it*1 #8,plumage' or #8,fea!r' /it*2 ! latt] "n is r mislead+1 z !re is a well-kn[n /it* ( t "n1 q diff]5t 9 appe>ance & me?od ( work+1 9 common use 9 l95 embroid]y4 ,9 read+ descriptions ( silk embroid]y "o %\ld be> 9 m9d t :5 ,fea!r-/it* is m5tion$ x may mean ! "o describ$ above4 ,illu/ration ,b is work$ 9 ! ?ree lighte/ %ades ( ! bronze-gre5--,nos4 #aab1 #aac1 & #aac;,a4 ,! me?od is precisely ! same z 9 ,a above1 only ! radiation is diff]5t & requires ev5 m c>e 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! /it*es4 ,radiation ( l9es f a c5tre foll[s a pr9ciple ( natural gr[?1 z anyone may obs]ve by tak+ ! sep>ate petals ( any simil> fl[]2 all ! l9es & ve9+s1 h[ev] mu* bran*$ or nett$1 w be se5 to conv]ge t[>ds ! po9t :]e x is ins]t$ into ! calyx4 ,9 ! leaf ! place :]e !y conv]ge is ! midrib--an ext5d$ c5tre1 s to speak--& 9 #8,b' ! /it*es are aim$ 9 ! same direction4 ,imag9ation has to be call$ ^u to sugge/ :]e ! l9es %\ld run 9 ! "p ( ! leaf :i* turns ov]1 b x %\ld always be done intellig5tly4 ,illu/ration ,c is m conv5tional1 by :i* ,i mean less reg>d is paid to natural gr[?4 ,x is a fav\rite me?od ) ! ,*9ese & ,japanese1 :o "w ?is =m ( sat9-/it* to su* p]fection1 t ! #8"r side' & #8wrong side' are almo/ exactly alike4 ,?is may be consid]$ a te/ ( good workman%ip4 ,x is be/ to beg9 ) ! "p ne>e/ ! c5tre1 ) ! d>ke/ %ade ( blue4 ,ea* /it* ( "o petal is p>allel ) ! o!rs & 9 a v]tical direction2 !re is no radiation 9 ! work+ ( individual petals1 only 9 ! arrangem5t ( ! petals !mselves 9 ! :ole fl[]2 & ! edge ( ea* %ade is %>ply def9$ by a void$ l9e in/ead ( melt+ or #8%ad+' into ! next4 ,a void$ l9e is a n>r[ space ( ! gr\nd left b>e betwe5 ! r[s ( /it*es2 x %\ld be s n>r[ & s ev5 z to look l a f9e l9e or ind5tation 9 ! silk4 ,?is k9d ( sat9-/it* is equally suit$ to "w done all 9 "o %ade or 9 :ite on :ite gr\nd4 ,d is also work$ 9 p>allel l9es1 b ! direction is horizontal1 ! %ades ly+ side by side close toge!r4 ,9 q small fl[]s ! /it*es w\ld g /raight across ea* petal1 b 9 l>g] ones1 l ^!1 half is work$ at a "t1 a void$ l9e be+ left d[n ! middle ( ea*4 ,9 ! sampl] x is also left to def9e ea* %ade1 b ,d is a simpl] =m = practice4 ,e is work$ some:at l ,a1 only ! /it*es foll[ all along ! curve equally z ! ve9s d 9 lily-leaves1 c41 in/ead ( radiat+4 ,?is %\ld be begun ) ! d>ke/ ( ! bronze-gre5s1 ,no4 #aac;,b4 ,two r[s may be work$ ) ?is1 !n "o ( ! next %ade1 #aac;,a1 !n ?ree ( ! next1 #aac1 !n "o ( #aac;,a to f9i% )4 ,illu/ration ,! ?ree b]ries m>k$ ,f on ! sampl] are slightly rais$4 ,! prep>ation may be ! same z t describ$ 9 ! *apt] on gold-"w2 padd+ ?read sewn across & across 9 sev]al directions1 or by lay]s ( p>*m5t cut to ! %ape4 ,9 any case ! padd+ mu/ be cov]$ ) /it*es ( silk1 work$ /raight across1 9 ! opposite direction to t ) :i* x is cov]$ ev5tually4 ,! same %ade1 ,no4 #aje1 may be us$ = all b]ries1 b ea* %\ld be work$ 9 a diff]5t direction1 to %[ ! effect t su* a *ange has on ! tone ( ! col\r4 ,! c5tres ( ! fl[]s1 m>k$ ,g1 are begun ) ! br[n silk1 ) surface sat9-/it*1 9 :i*1 z its "n implies1 ne>ly all ! silk is on ! surface ( ! mat]ial4 ,x is j tak5 ?r\gh & br\ght up aga9 close to1 b n exactly 91 ! po9t :]e x w5t d[n1 leav+ a v small /it* at ! back1 !n tak5 across ! space to be cov]$1 & ?r\gh aga9 on ! opposite side 9 ! same mann]4 ,! /it*es may lie ei!r horizontally or v]tically4 ,ov] ?is "w a s+le ?read ( ,no4 #ib is drawn diagonally1 at regul> int]vals1 to =m a lattice4 ,^! ov]ly+ /it*es1 aga91 are sewn d[n by a small cross-/it* at ea* int]section4 ,?is lattice-"w may be us$ indep5d5tly1 )\t any "u-/it*+1 %[+ ! gr\nd in/ead2 x has a v pretty light effect among m solid "w4 ,ano!r patt]n is %[n at ,g#b4 ,,split-,,/it*4--,?is is a /it* f\nd mu* 9 use 9 ! e>lie/ specim5s ( ecclesia/ical ne$lework4 ,i believe t ! faces & heads ( ne>ly all ! figure "w done be=e ! fifte5? c5tury 7 9 split-/it*4 ,! effect is some?+ l sev]al o!rs4 ,:5 v f9e & r tightly work$ x looks l sat9-/it*2 :5 loos]1 l f9e *a9-/it*2 :5 co>se & r loose1 l crewel-/it* work$ backw>ds & =w>ds4 ,ea* /it* is work$ by mak+ a small sat9-/it* & br++ ! ne$le up f ! back ?r\gh ! middle ( x1 or by ?read+ ! ne$le ) two /r&s ( silk & br++ ! po9t up betwe5 !m4 ,see illu/rations ( anci5t ,coptic "w1 :]e ! fray$ ends ( silk %[ pla9ly t x 0 done 9 ?is way4 ,! silk is ?us pi]c$ ?r\gh or #8split'--h5ce its "n4 ,illu/ration ,h on ! sampl] is work$ ?us3-- ,) a ne$leful ( ,no4 #ace beg9 at ! l[] end ( ! inside half ( ! leaf & foll[ ! inn] curve z f> z ! po9t ( ! fir/ lobe4 ,almo/ e alt]nate r[ ( /it*es is c>ri$ only halfway d[n1 or less1 to keep ! radiation "r4 ,:5 ! fir/ lobe is fill$1 take ! next %ade 7#acd7 & "w 9 ! same mann] up to ! top po9t ( ! leaf4 ,! o!r half ( ! top po9t & ! upp] "p ( ! next lobe is work$ ) ! lighte/ %ade1 #acc;,a1 & ! la/ ) #acd2 h %[s ! upp] "p ( ! leaf 9 c\rse ( be+ work$4 ,we n[ come to laid-"w1 ! g5]al "* ( :i* ,i h already describ$ above4 ,! fir/ process is to cov] ! surface ) ! silk5 ?reads1 ly+ all 9 "o direction--v]tical at ,i1 horizontal at ,j1 on ! sampl]4 ,illu/ration ,!y c be laid at any angle1 provid$ t ! /it*es are kept p>allel ) ea* o!r1 & t due consid]ation is giv5 to ! direction ! ov]-/it*+ w take4 ,x ought to cross ! laid /it*es z ne>ly z possible at "r angles to keep x nicely 9 place4 ,( c\rse1 x is impossible to keep /rictly to ?is1 b if ! pr9cipal ve9+s are plac$ ?us ! o!rs w naturally approximate suffici5tly4 ,! silk may ei!r be c>ri$ ?r\gh ! mat]ial & ! ne$le br\ght up a v little way fur!r on along ! outl9e1 z 9 surface-sat92 or ! silk may be turn$ back on ! surface1 z 9 c\*+1 ) a /it* at ea* end4 ,! middle & d>ke/ %ades ( grey-gre5 7#acd1 #ace7 are us$ = ! leaf1 & ! middle & d>ke/ blues = ! vase4 ,! ov]-/it*+ ( ! leaf is 9 ! lighte/ grey-gre51 done ) split-/it*2 ! vase ) ! d>ke/ blue 9 c\*+4 ,! b& ,k at ! bottom ( ! sampl] may be work$ 9 ! same way1 us+ back-/it*+ to keep x d[n4 ,) back-/it*+ a patt]n c be =m$ :i* is some?+ l t made by c\*+1 only x is s(t]-look+ & m quickly done4 ,if x is a bord] ( any consid]able l5g? a numb] ( ske9s may be all begun toge!r2 !n1 p9n+ !m all d[n ) a long f9e p91 ! /it*es are set 9 at regul> int]vals to make ! patt]n4 ,! floss-silk 9 ?is case requires no ne$le1 b1 :5 once begun1 is #8paid (f' ! reel or c>d by degrees z requir$4 ,laid-"w makes a beautiful backgr\nd2 ! ov]-/it*+ may be ei!r ( split-/it*1 c\*+1 or back-/it*1 & may be done ei!r 9 a patt]n or by simple l9es1 diagonal1 v&yk$1 or at "r angles ) ! silk laid d[n4 ,comp>e k1 :i* is laid1 ) q1 :i* is c\*$4 ,bo? may be work$ ) ! middle %ade ( blue sewn d[n ) gold-col\r1 ,no4 #ib4 ,illu/ration ,m is work$ 9 ! same mann] z ,b1 b ) ! two %ades ( bronze-gre51 ,nos4 #aac & #aac;,a4 ,n is fill$ ) d>n+-/it*1 ! l9es foll[+ ! direction ( ! curve4 ,d>n+ _c be done 9 a frame 9 ! same mann] z :5 held loose 9 ! h&4 ,! ne$le mu/ g 9 ) "o h& & be drawn d[n ) ! o!r1 ! same z ) all "w done 9 a frame4 ,! /it*es are ab\t a qu>t] ( an in* long & a v little ( ! gr\nd is left betwe5 ea*4 ,! r[s ( /it*es also lie close toge!r4 ,! %ad+ & proportion %\ld be done to mat* ,e1 & ! diff]5t %ades %\ld #8dovetail' into ea* o!r z 9 ! sat9-/it*4 ,! p>ts ( ! leaves m>k$ ,o are work$ ) ! grey-gre51 ,no4 #ace1 9 radiat+ l9es1 n q close toge!r1 %[+ ab\t an equal quantity ( ! gr\nd betwe54 ,?is p>tial fill+1 bo? 9 c\*+ & 9 d>n+1 is v effective = light "w1 b an outl9e is absolutely necess>y1 & is really ! pr9cipal "p ( ! "w4 ,! outl9e may be ei!r c\*$ or work$ 9 crewel-/it*1 l p4 ,crewel-/it*1 l d>n+1 is n work$ 9 ! frame 9 ! same way z 9 ! h&4 ,aft] fa/5+ on ! ?read1 br+ x out at ! bottom ( ! "w & set ! ne$le 9 ab\t an eigh? ( an in* high] up on ! trac$ l9e4 ,draw x d[n & br+ x up aga9 close to ! place :]e x 0 br\ght out at fir/4 ,set x 9 aga9 an eigh? ( an in* high] ?an ! fir/ /it*1 t w make a /it* a qu>t] ( an in* long3 keep !m ab\t ?is l5g? all ! "t4 7,9 turn+ a %>p curve !y %\ld be %ort]1 & 9 a long /raight l9e !y may be a v little long]1 work$ 9 co>se silk47 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 n to pi]ce ! /it* :5 br++ ! ne$le ?r\gh f ! back2 ! me?od ( work+ is ! same z 9 split-/it*1 ) ?is exception1 :i* makes all ! diff]5ce6 ,x may be necess>y to hold back ! /it* to avoid pi]c+ x1 especially on ! inn] side ( a curv$ l9e1 = ! ne$le mu/ always be kept on ! same side ( ! /it* z x is begun1 o!rwise x w make a break 9 ! curve4 ,x has1 moreov]1 a diff]5t "n :5 work$ on "o side f t :i* x has :5 work$ on ! o!r--crewel :5 ! ne$le comes out on ! ,left1 outl9e :5 x comes out on ! ,"r4 ,!re are o!r names giv5 to ?is /it*1 accord+ to ! _m slight v>iations 9 ! way ( work+ x4 ,:51 = in/ance1 in/ead ( br++ ! ne$le out on ! l9e1 x is tak5 a little way (f x1 s z to make a m slant+ /it*1 x is call$ /em-/it* 7see /ems m>k$ ,r on sampl]71 b z ?is is 9 reality a n>r[ /rip ( sat9-/it*1 work$ diagonally1 x does n seem to require a "n ( its own4 ,u is c\*$ ) ! d>k grey-gre5 silks1 ! %ades be+ plac$ side by side4 ,s & ,t are n>r[ /rips ( slant+ sat9-/it*4 ,all /raight-l9$ ,lett]+ looks well work$ ?us1 outl9$ ) an edge ( c\*$ gold or silv]4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,on ,,outl9e ,,& ,,appliqu ,hi!rto we h consid]$ outl9e m]ely z x is trac$ ^u ! mat]ial to be enri*$ by embroid]y--z a b\nd>y = ! ne$le to "w to2 or :5 an outl9e has be5 plac$ r\nd ! edges ( ! /it*+1 simply to make x neat4 ,9 ?is *apt] ,i propose to deal ) ,,outl9e z a di/9ct me?od ( ornam5tation1 us$ indep5d5tly ( any #8fill+'2 z an adjunct to appliqu2 & z enclos+ portions ( ! backgr\nd to be fur!r enri*$1 b n entirely cov]$4 ,,outl9e ,,"w is (t5 look$ d[n ^u by ! exp]t embroidress z a k9d ( ne$lework q unwor?y ( h] s]i\s att5tion1 because x requires v little te*nical skill2 :ile1 z to ,,appliqu1 x is n to be m5tion$1 be+ almo/ b5ea? contempt6 ,?is attitude t[>ds ! simpl] k9ds ( decoration m]ely %[s a want ( arti/ic p]ception4 ,walt] ,crane gives outl9e 9 g5]al its true position :5 he says x may be call$ ! #8,alpha & ,omega ( art1' be+ ! e>lie/ mode ( expression among primitive peoples & *ildr51 & also cultivat$ = its p[] ( expression1 "*1 & z an #8ultimate te/ ( draughtsman%ip by ! mo/ accompli%$ arti/s ( all "t4'#b ,outl9e & appliqu g naturally toge!r because !y are v (t5 mutually dep5d5t ^u ea* o!r1 appliqu ne>ly always requir+ an outl9e1 & outl9e frequ5tly be+ p>tially fill$ ) appliqu4 ,outl9e may really be consid]$ m purely arti/ic "w ?an elaborate embroid]y1 because x dep5ds m entirely ^u ! m]it ( ! design = its beauty1 be+ unable to hide its defects "u a maze ( intricate /it*]y or to c>ry away ! m9d ( ! behold] by ! glory ( v>i\s col\rs4 ,9 e>ly & m$ieval times ne$lework z an adjunct to weav+ & outl9e "w by itself 0 us$ ) a mo/ p]fect arti/ic effect1 done 9 c\*$ metals or silk5 cord1 or 9 simple *a9-/it* or back-/it*1 c42 :ile1 z = appliqu1 _m gorge\s ve/m5ts may /ill be se5 reta9+ mu* ( _! orig9al beauty1 work$ 9 sat9 on velvet1 silk ^u damask1 c41 ,botticelli & o!r great ma/]s n disda9+ to draw designs = su* "w ) _! own h&s4 ,!re are sev]al reasons = ! employm5t ( special outl9e 9 embroid]y besides ! elem5t>y "o ( m>k+ out ! %ape4 ,9 a picture su* l9es are n only unnecess>y1 b objectionable 9 ! f9i%$ "w2 :y1 !n1 are !y admirable "h8 ,! object ( art ne$lework is n to make pictures 7h[ev] beautiful !y might be71 b s to decorate c]ta9 textile articles--( furniture1 clo?+1 c4--t !y d n lose _! natural *>act]i/ics1 b become !mselves m truly beautiful4 ,figures1 foliage1 infloresc5ce1 c41 %\ld n /& out f _! backgr\nd l real ?+s1 b become actually "p ( ! textile itself4 ,?is be+ ! case1 we are deb>r$ f ! employm5t ( naturali/ic half-tones1 %ad[s & reflect$ lights by :i* a pa9t] makes ! diff]5t objects 9 8 picture at ! same "t h>moni\s 9 col\r1 di/9ct f ea* o!r1 & altoge!r life-l 9 appe>ance4 ,9 decorative art ! use ( a good1 bold outl9e sep>ates ! col\rs1 def9es ! =m1 h>monises ! g5]al effect1 & increases ! appe>ance ( flatness4 ,! isolation ( v>i\s col\rs by means ( an outl9e is especially desirable 9 "w :i* is to be se5 f a di/ance1 because masses ( col\r :5 plac$ 9 direct contact ) ea* o!r become blurr$ & lose _! true relation & value4 ,9 ! same circum/ances ! =m is also apt to lose its proportions to "s ext5t on acc\nt ( ! prop5sity ( :ite & all light col\rs to spread !mselves & increase _! app>5t size4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,i4--,appliqu ,italian1 ,sev5te5? ,c5tury4 ,v4 ,a4 ,museum1 ,s4 ,k5s+ton 7,no4 #bdc--ahie74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ii4--,outl9e alone ,a v happy use ( outl9e is sometimes made z a s(t5] ( g5]al effect bo? = appliqu & _m k9ds ( embroid]y by ! addition ( a second>y outl9e beyond ! b\nd>y ( ! ornam5t1 sometimes ( ! same col\r1 b frequ5tly ( a pal] %ade1 or altoge!r diff]5t4 ,or aga91 9 conjunction ) appliqu1 ! outl9e frequ5tly breaks out into m or less fanciful & luxuri\s scroll-"w1 :i* entirely does away ) ! h>dness :i* is ! besett+ fault ( ?is k9d ( "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iii4--,outl9e ) a little ,appliqu ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iv4--,appliqu enri*$ ) ,scroll-"w ,app>el ( ,dalmatic1 ,spani%1 ,sixte5? ,c5tury4 ,v4 ,a4 ,museum1 ,s4 ,k5s+ton 7,no4 #hhh--ahig74 ,illu/ration ,,iv4 %[s a good example ( ?is1 "o half ( :i* ,i h drawn )\t scroll-"w to %[ :at a diff]5ce x makes4 ,x is outl9$ ?r\gh\t ) f\r ?reads ( f9e gold1 sewn d[n all toge!r v closely ) gre5 silk r\nd ! leaves2 ! d\ble set ( f\r ?reads1 meet+ at ! base ( ! leaves1 =m ! /em1 & are also sewn closely ) gre54 ,on ! :ite ornam5t ! gold is sewn ) yell[1 & !re is an inn] l9e ( blue all r\nd2 also /it*es ( blue silk are plac$ 9 pairs across ! :ite sat9 all ! way d[n4 ,all ! scroll-"w is done 9 gold twi/1 ! same ?ickness z ! outl9e ( f\r gold ?reads sewn toge!r4 ,x is g5]ally desirable ?us to "w all small detail occurr+ 9 appliqu designs2 !y %\ld be done on ! gr\nd itself aft] ! patt]n has be5 transf]r$ to x4 ,! design us$ = ?is k9d ( "w %\ld always be bold & broad1 unmi/akable 9 its language & graceful 9 its expression1 & s arrang$ z to make ! be/ acc\nt ( ! mat]ials to be employ$4 ,sev]al diff]5t textures may be us$ to enhance ! ri*ness & int]e/ ( ! composition1 b x c be made v beautiful ) only two--"o = ! gr\nd & "o = ! onlay4 ,! same may be said ) reg>d to ! col\rs4 ,any two ( suffici5t h>mony or contra/ betwe5 ! gr\nd & ! patt]n are suffici5t1 & p]haps m c]ta9 ( good result 9 ! h&s ( ! inexp]i5c$ ?an a v>iety ( col\rs might be4 ,appliqu is p>ticul>ly suitable = alt>-frontals & sanctu>y hang+s2 ! f9] "w & small] patt]ns su* z ,figs4 ,,iii4 & ,,iv41 make v effective & h&some app>els = dalmatics & albes1 & orphreys = *asubles4 ,appliqu c also be us$ = bann]s1 :]e effect is really m desirable ?an ov]-mu* "w4 ,q beautiful is su* a bann] %[+ figures ( sa9ts or angels 9 bright raim5t1 well drawn1 expressive1 & ) few details 7some?+ 9 ! /yle ( good /a9$-glass71 :]e ! full value ( pure col\r is obta9able & ! *ang+ light 9 a procession modifies or acc5tuates ! tones alt]nately 9 a mo/ delightful mann]4 ,ne$less to say su* designs mu/ be fully col\r$ be=e ! mat]ials are *os51 & ! greate/ c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ to see t !y h>monise2 no?+ %ort ( see+ ! actual pieces ( silk toge!r w accompli% ?is2 small snipp+s or ?reads ( silk are useless = ! purpose4 ,& ! outl9es mu/ be suffici5tly ?ick & well m>k$ to keep ! col\rs di/9ct4 ,a #8cool' d>k br[n or a #8w>m' d>k grey is pref]able to black = ?is purpose4 ,! v>i\s fabrics us$ = appliqu may be prep>$ 9 ! foll[+ mann]4 ,9 ! fir/ place embroid]y pa/e has to be made1 al?\gh _m sub/itutes h be5 tri$ ) m or less success4 ,if !re is a l>ge quantity to prep>e1 x is bett] to make ! pa/e ?an to try #8cobbl]'s pa/e' or photograph m\ntant1 ?\gh ei!r w d v well = small pieces ( "w or to pa/e ! back ( embroid]y :i* has be5 done 9 a frame to be m\nt$ aft]w>ds4 ,9 ?is latt] case a small quantity ( ! pa/e is c>efully rubb$ on ! back ( ! "w ) ! tips ( ! f+]s1 & !n ?9 t\gh pap] /uck to x be=e cutt+ x out ( ! frame3 ! pap] %\ld be crumpl$ up & !n slightly smoo!d out be=e apply+ x to ! "w1 or x is apt to contract 9 ! c\rse ( dry+1 ) disa/r\s results4 ,,embroid]y ,,pa/e is made ?us3 mix #c oz4 f9e :eat5 fl\r 7n #8self-rais+1' #8:ole meal1' or any fancy k9d71 #b dr4 f9ely p[d]$ res91 p9t di/ill$ wat] 7cold74 ,x mu/ be p]fectly smoo? be=e putt+ on ! /ove to boil2 x c be /ra9$ ?r\gh a sieve if necess>y4 ,x mu/ be kept well /irr$1 especially z x approa*es boil+ po9t1 :5 x ?ick5s & requires vigor\s action to prev5t x f burn+ or gett+ lumpy4 ,:5 once ! :ole mass boils1 x becomes ?9n] & cle>]1 & mu/ be kept boil+ = at lea/ five m9utes4#c ,a piece ( ,bi%op's lawn 7m\nt$ 9 a frame7 is next cov]$ ) z ?9 a lay] ( ! pa/e z c be spread smoo?ly all ov] x2 a l>ge /rong bru% is us$ = ?is1 a hog's-hair tool su* z h\se-pa9t]s use1 r\nd or flat4 ,!n lay ! mat]ial to be m\nt$ ^u ! pa/$ surface1 pat & /roke x d[n g5tly ) a s(t silk or l95 rag to make sure t x is 9 contact ) ! pa/e ev5ly ?r\gh\t1 !n p9 or tack x firmly all r\nd1 & screw or peg ! frame up taut4 ,air bubbles & creases w\ld spoil x altoge!r4 ,x is !n left tw5ty-f\r h\rs to dry4 ,if requir$ soon]1 x may be plac$ 9 a w>m dry room1 n too ne> ! fire1 b ne> en\gh to ha/5 ! dry+1 or a w>m flat-iron may be pass$ ov] ! back2 b ! face ( ! silk or velvet mu/ n be t\*$ ) any?+2 ! iron mu/ n be ne>ly s hot z a laundress w\ld use2 x is bett]1 if possible1 to let x dry naturally2 !re is less risk ( damag+ ! mat]ial2 & z x is r a delicate process f fir/ to la/1 x is advisable to exp]im5t ) some?+ ( little value to beg9 )4 ,small pieces ( /uff are mu* easi] to m\nt ?an l>ge ones4 ,! :ole ( ! pa/$ surface 9 ! frame may be cov]$ ) diff]5t pieces1 b !y mu/ all be put on :ile ! pa/e is wet1 & ( c\rse x is n necess>y to pa/e ! :ole ( ! #8back+' if x w n be us$1 ?\gh x w dry m ev5ly if x is at lea/ wip$ ov] ) a damp clo? :]e !re is no pa/e4 ,:5 ! m\nt$ mat]ial is ?or\ghly dry1 x may be cut out ( ! frame & laid1 face d[nw>ds1 on a bo>d1 :5 ! %apes requir$ %\ld be m>k$ out on ! l951 & cut ) a %>p knife or scissors4 ,! appliqu %\ld be accurately trac$ f ! same draw+ z t us$ = ! :ole ( ! "w2 b x mu/ be rememb]$ t :atev] is drawn on ! l95 back+ w be rev]s$ :5 se5 on ! #8"r' side4 ,! %apes %\ld always be cut out a trifle l>g] ?an ! draw+1 r ?an small]4 ,! gr\nd = ! appliqu be+ m\nt$ 9 a frame1 & ! design trac$1 no?+ rema9s to be done b to tack ea* detail firmly d[n 9 its place & c\* r\nd ! edges ) filoselle or gold1 c4 ,! tack+ /it*es may be ( f9e :ite cotton tak5 "r across & )drawn aft] ! "w is f9i%$2 b 9 any case a small /it* ( ! same col\r z ! onlay %\ld be plac$ ?r\gh any %>p po9t !re may be1 to prev5t x cat*+ 9 ! silk1 or gett+ curl$ out ( %ape :ile be+ work$ r\nd4 ,^! /it*es w n be tak5 out aft]w>ds4 ,a few /it*es are also desirable d[n ! c5tres ( leaves1 fl[]s1 c41 s t !y may keep flat z well z 9 place4 ,"s me?od %\ld be kept to 9 cutt+ ! appliqu a c]ta9 way 9 ! /uff2 !re is a di/9ct diff]5ce 9 col\r :5 x is cut ) ! w>p or across x1 or aga91 diagonally4 ,take sat9 = example3 cut a leaf or ! petal ( a fl[] ) ! #8smoo?' ( ! sat9 go+ 9 "o direction1 & !n cut ano!r exactly simil>1 ) ! sat9 9 a diff]5t direction1 & place !m side by side2 x w be evid5t at once t ?is quality ( textile fabrics 7i4e4 ! *ange ( col\r accord+ to direction ( w>p & weft7 mu/ be reckon$ ) & us$ intellig5tly4 ,x is common to all 9 a m or less m>k$ degree1 & foll[s ! same pr9ciple :i* ,i h po9t$ out :5 speak+ ( ! direction ( /it*es4 ,fl[]s 7if m ?an an in* 9 diamet]7 look be/ ) ! petals cut sep>ately1 all "o way ( ! /uff1 & arrang$ s z to radiate f ! c5tre4 ,leaves c be cut ) ea* half />t+ t[>ds ! midrib2 b too mu* cutt+ ab\t is n desirable4 ,appliqu is int5d$ to h a some:at flat effect4 ,q suffici5t v>iety c g5]ally be obta9$ by v>y+ ! direction ( ! :ole leaf1 & by add+ ve9s 9 c\*$1 or crewel1 or split /it*4 ,a mass ( ,fr5* knots or a diap] ov] a diff]5t-col\r$ silk = ! c5tres ( fl[]s may comb9e v well ) appliqu1 b any o!r additional /it*es %\ld be resort$ to b r>ely4 ,x %\ld n look l an imitation ( "w done entirely by ! ne$le1 & mu* /it*]y mix$ ) x or work$ ^u x is apt to give a false impression1 besides weak5+ ! "* ( ! "w1 :i* %\ld be simple & dignifi$1 ) no fuss9ess ab\t x4 ,if mu* v>iety is desir$1 x c always be produc$ by ! judici\s selection ( diff]5t mat]ials4 ,!re is great div]sity ( surface effect 9 sat91 diap]1 damask & cord$ silks1 :ile velvet is inde$ m diff]5t ?an any add$ /it* w\ld be4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,v4--,c\nt]-*ange ,inlay ,,inlay is some?+ l appliqu 9 appe>ance4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 work$ diff]5tly1 ! decoration be+ set into ! fabric to be ornam5t$ in/ead ( be+ laid ^u x4 ,x ought to be work$ 9 clo? or "s sub/antial k9d ( mat]ial n liable to fray at ! edges :5 cut4 ,x is em95tly suitable = *ur* hang+s1 dorsals or w+s1 c41 hav+ a c]ta9 nobility & s9c]ity ab\t x1 :ile all x asks ( ! work] is accuracy 9 ! cutt+ & neatness 9 ! sew+4 ,! h& & eye ( wom5 are s mu* m tra9$ n[adays ?an !y us$ to be1 by means ( v>i\s arts & crafts1 t x ought to be a matt] ( c\rse to foll[ a l9e p]fectly ) a %>p knife on clo?1 c4 ,! me?od ( "w is z foll[s3 ,two pieces ( clo? ( diff]5t col\rs & ab\t equal ?ickness are tack$ toge!r & p9n$ d[n to a bo>d ) draw+-p9s4 ,! patt]n is trac$ on ! top "o1 & ! two are !n cut toge!r ) a v %>p knife 7a lea!r-cutt]'s knife is good = ?is purpose74 ,! blade ( ! knife mu/ be kept v]tical1 t gr\nd & inlet may be ( ! same size4 ,!y are !n tak5 (f ! bo>d & tack$ d[n to l95 already m\nt$ 9 a frame1 c>efully fitt+ ! two col\rs into ea* o!r4 ,if ! patt]n be a c\nt]-*ange design1 !re w be absolutely no wa/e ( ! /uff1 z ! piece :i* is cut out ( ! "o mat]ial is set into ! o!r4 ,:5 ! edges h be5 sewn toge!r 7:i* is done ) pla9 ov]-sew+ n go+ ?r\gh ! l95--& is be/ work$ out ( ! frame7 ! l95 is remov$ & ! outl9e add$ if requir$4 ,?is may be ( cord or gold or n>r[ braid1 or *a9-/it*+ answ]s ?is purpose v well1 especially z x is done loose 9 ! h&4 ,if a ?9n] mat]ial1 or "o m liable to fray is us$1 x is bett] to keep x 9 ! frame ?r\gh\t1 & "w ?r\gh ! l952 b x is n su* a p]fect me?od1 z !re is a #8wrong side' to x1 :i* !re %\ld n be 9 ! o!r4 ,nei!r w x hang 9 su* s(t folds1 especially if x is pa/$ on to ! l951 z "s recomm5d4 ,illu/ration3 ,*a9-/it*4 ,fig4 ,,vi ,,*a9-,,/it*1 :i* ,i h m5tion$ z a suitable /it* to cov] ! jo9 :5 work+ 9 inlay1 may be describ$ "h1 z x is v useful = any "w t is n done 9 a frame4 ,x has be5 s mu* imitat$ by means ( ! sew+-ma*9e 9 mod]n times z to be some:at out ( fav\r1 b x ne$ n look me*anical if us$ ) discretion4 ,x makes a beautiful ev5 l9e1 foll[+ any curve ) great precision & ease1 & w always f9d its place at ! h&s ( ! compet5t work]1 ei!r z an outl9e /it* or a fill+4 ,x is done by sett+ ! ne$le into ! /uff at ! same place x came out1 ! ?read ly+ "u ! ?umb ( ! left h&4 ,a small piece ( ! /uff is tak5 up by ! ne$le 9 ! "r h&1 & ! ?read drawn n too tightly 7beg9n]s always make _! *a9-/it* too tight72 ! ne$le is !n set 9 z be=e1 exactly 9 ! same place :]e x came out4 ,! #8wrong side' ( ! "w %\ld look l back-/it*+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fr5* ,knots4 ,fig4 ,,vii ,,fr5* ,,knots1 :i* are plac$ 9 ! middle ( ea* ( ! grapes 9 ,illu/ration ,i41 are extremely useful1 :e!r 9 masses1 s+ly1 or 9 l9es foll[+ an outl9e2 !y may be us$ z a fill+1 or scatt]$ ov] ! gr\nd1 :]e !y w break ! col\r 9 a v pleas+ mann] & add to ! ri*ness ( g5]al effect4 ,purse-silk1 or "s o!r k9d ( ?ick1 firm v>iety ( silk1 is be/ = knots4 ,floss us$ d\ble & twi/$ toge!r is v satisfactory2 9 pale %ades or :ite x has ! effect ( pe>ls4 ,aft] fa/5+ ! end firmly to beg9 )1 br+ ! ne$le to ! surface1 take ! ?read up on x f "r to left1 hold+ ! ?read ) ! left h&1 give ! ne$le "o turn & set x v]tically into ! /uff ne> ! po9t x came out1 b n exactly on x4 ,! ?read %\ld /ill be held 9 ! left h& till x has all gone ?r\gh1 leav+ ! knot on ! surface4 ,x %\ld n be twi/$ m ?an once r\nd ! ne$le4 ,if a l>g] knot is want$1 ?ick] silk %\ld be us$2 knots made ) two or ?ree twi/s on ! ne$le d n lie well 9 _! place4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,on ,,figure-,,"w ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,i4--,*ri/ian ,coptic ,embroid]y ,a4,d4 #ejj or #fjj ,"p ( a ,m$allion ( a ,tunic4 ,f ,anci5t ,tombs 9 ,upp] ,egypt4 ,v4 ,a4 ,museum1 ,s4 ,k5s+ton 7,no4 #abd--ahia74 ,9 ! la/ *apt]1 :5 speak+ ( appliqu1 ,i _h occasion to m5tion h[ well x l5ds itself to repres5tation ( ! human =m1 to be work$ on a fairly l>ge scale4 ,i consid] x em95tly suitable = ?is because ( ! slight am\nt ( /it*]y requir$ to produce ! desir$ effect1 ! features be+ m]ely outl9$1 ) ! exception p]haps ( ! eyes & lips1 :i* might be work$ solid4 ,l>ge masses ( drap]y1 c41 are t$i\s to "w & may v well be repres5t$ by a piece ( beautiful wov5 mat]ial2 :ile ! features & limbs1 if well-drawn to />t )1 may be outl9$ accurately by skilful f+]s )\t call+ = a great] k ( anatomy or arti/ic expression ?an ! av]age embroidress may be expect$ to possess4 ,b n[ we h come to figure-"w z a special bran* ( ,*ur* embroid]y4 ,my own op9ion may be briefly /at$ t only ^? :o c draw correctly ought to attempt x1 because1 ( all me?ods ( repres5tation1 ne$lework is "o ( ! lea/ direct1 & !re=e "o ( ! mo/ difficult4 ,x is possible1 p]haps1 to get a fairly satisfactory figure work$ by a p]son :o _c draw1 if ! pr9cipal l9es & %ad+ are di/9ctly m>k$ out on ! mat]ial to be work$1 z well z a fully col\r$ draw+ provid$ by ! design]4 ,b /it*+ is n1 s to speak1 a natural m$ium = express+ ideas1 & ! slighte/ deviation f :at is int5d$ by ! arti/ may result 9 some?+ entirely diff]5t 9 "*--approa*+1 possibly1 v ne> ! grotesque on ! "o h&1 or frivolity on ! o!r4 ,& z we seem 9 ^! days ( g5]al b sup]ficial education ( ! masses1 to h almo/ lo/ ! feel+ ( rev]5ce = religi\s effigies1 look$ ^u z symbols only1 irrespective ( any /hetic prop]ties !y may or may n possess1 x is m ?an ev] necess>y to d ! be/ ?+s 9 ! be/ way we "k (4 ,?is is :y ,i w\ld /rongly urge all :o wi% to enri* _! embroid]ies ) ! human figure to practise draw+ fir/4 ,i w\ld fur!r sugge/ t ! draw+ %\ld be *iefly f ! antique1 & ! /udy altoge!r m ) reg>d to typical ?an individual =ms1 z ?is tra9+ is n = ! pa9t+ ( #8pictures1' b = ! sake ( kn[+ :at are ! elem5ts ( human beauty & h[ !y ought to be appli$ or modifi$4 ,nei!r am ,i includ+ ! /udy ( design1 :i*1 z ,i h be=e rem>k$1 is a /udy 9 itself4 ,i am sugge/+ only su* a practice ( draw+ z %all enable ! ne$lewoman to "k :at is requir$ ( h] 9 foll[+ out ! idea & int5tion ( h] design1 & to be able to c>ry out ! same intellig5tly2 %e w n !n place an eye on ! *eek-bone or an e> on ! jaw1 or all[ ! fold ( a g>m5t to sugge/ a dislocat$ limb4 ,x is tak5 = grant$ t ! embroidress is already q dext]\s & pr(ici5t 9 ! use ( ! f9e/ floss-silks & has _h a good deal ( practice 9 ! usual /it*es4 ,h] m9d %\ld be un5cumb]$ ) any ?\ght ( te*nique1 & ! h& %\ld respond )\t ef=t4 ,!re is no new /it* to le>n = ?is "w1 b !re are sev]al ways ( employ+ ! old ones4 ,ea* me?od be+ usually associat$ ) "s di/9ct /yle or date1 x is well to be conv]sant ) ! v>i\s /&>ds1 & !n ! work] is able to *oose t :i* appeals to h] mo/1 or :i* seems ! "r "o = any special requirem5t4 ,! decoration & ve/m5ts ( a *ur* may v well be ( a lat] date ?an ! build+1 b x seems a sort ( ana*ronism to h x di/9ctively e>li]1 unless x actually is a treasure h&$ d[n f pa/ g5]ations4 ,among ! e>lie/ examples to :i* we h access are ! rema9s ( ,*ri/ian ,coptic embroid]y1 done1 x is believ$1 9 ! fif? or six? c5tury 7see ,illu/ration ,i47 ,x is all work$ 9 co>se split-/it* or 7:i* has mu* ! same effect7 by ?read+ ! ne$le ) two /r&s ( silk at once & br++ x up f ! back betwe5 ! two ?reads4 ,! features are m>k$ out ) d>k br[n silk1 & are =m$ 9 a some:at r\gh-&-ready way by mak+ almo/ e /it* express a feature by its direction & col\r1 ! re/ ( ! face be+ fill$ up z be/ x c4 ,! h&s 9 ! same way2 ea* f+] is simply & crudely express$ by a s+le or d\ble r[ ( split-/it*4 ,! g>m5ts are %ad$1 ! r[s ( /it*+ foll[+ ! direction ( ! folds4 ,illu/ration3 ,fragm5t ( de ,cantelupe ,ve/m5t 9 ,worce/] ,ca!dral ,a4,d4 #abcf-ff ,! e>lie/ ,engli% figure "w 0 usually done also 9 split-/it*1 b mu* f9]4 ,! faces1 h&s1 & feet 7 work$ ) ! /it* all 9 "o direction1 ei!r v]tical or horizontal1 & ! details m>k$ out ) v f9e black silk or d>k br[n4 ,sometimes ! lips 7 put 9 ) r$4 ,!re 0 no %ad+ ( ! fle%-t9ts1 b !y 71 s f> z "o c tell1 q :ite4 ,! ,worce/] fragm5ts & ! ,durham /ole & maniple are examples ( ?is "w2 ! latt]1 be+ 9 su* good pres]vation1 is ! easie/ to /udy4 ,! g>m5ts & sometimes ! :ole figure 7 work$ 9 gold or silv] ?read all laid "o way2 or aga91 ) ! face-l9es v]tical & ! re/ horizontal4 ,! fragm5ts f ! ve/m5t ( ,walt] de ,cantelupe 7#abcf-abfe or #f7 %[ a p>ticul>ly beautiful scroll-"w 9 a fl[+ patt]n all ov] x4 ,!re are _m small figures seat$ & cr[n$ & hold+ a sceptre4 ,! :ole ( ! "w is done entirely 9 f9e gold-?read laid 9 "o direction1 & outl9$ ) d>k br[n or black on :at seems to h be5 crimson or rose-col\r$ ,ori5tal silk4 ,!re is a small piece ( x 9 ! ,v4 & ,a4 ,museum ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 & "s m 9 ,worce/] ,ca!dral ,*ur*1 f :i* my draw+ is tak54 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ii4--,e>ly ,?irte5? ,c5tury 7,f ! ,syon ,cope7 ,v4 ,a4 ,museum1 ,s4 ,k5s+ton 7,no4 #hc--ahfd74 ,b ! mo/ celebrat$ "w1 :i* began ab\t ?is "t & fl\ri%$ = ab\t a c5tury1 mak+ ,engl& fam\s = its embroid]y1 0 ! _w-r5[n$ #8,opus ,anglicanum1' ( :i* we h "o ( ! mo/ p]fect specim5s 9 ! well-kn[n #8,syon ,cope' at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,"o ( ! *>act]i/ics ( ?is "w is ! way ! faces are treat$4 ,split-/it* 9 "o %ade ( f9e floss is /ill us$1 b1 in/ead ( ly+ 9 /raight l9es1 x is begun 9 ! c5tre ( ! *eek & work$ r\nd & r\nd1 9 m or less circul> l9es1 till !y m]ge into ! semicircul> ones ( ! neck1 or radiate t[>ds ! eye-socket & ! /raight l9e ( ! nose4 ,! direction ( ! /it* gives an appe>ance ( %ad+1 al?\gh x is all done 9 "o %ade ( v f9e silk4 ,! effect ( relief is also atta9$ by ! same means1 slightly acc5tuat$ by me*anical assi/ance--possibly ! r\nd head ( a metal p9 heat$ & press$ :]ev] su* an effect is desir$4 ,! figure ( ,/4 ,paul 7,fig4 ,,ii47 %[s ! g5]al effect & ! accompany+ diagram 7p4 #cd7 ! me?od ( "w4 ,x w be obs]v$ by anyone :o w make ! exp]im5t1 t f9e split-/it*1 crewel1 or *a9-/it* work$ solid 9 a circul> direction 9 ?is way1 if done out ( a frame1 w naturally cause su* depressions z are to be se5 9 ! e>ly specim5s ( #8,opus ,anglicanum4' ,x ne$$ v little me*anical appliance to make ^! ind5tations regul> & m effective2 b by degrees ?is desire = effect grew beyond b\nds1 & ! modell+ became frightfully exagg]at$ at ! same "t t ! natural & mod]ate relief ( eyelids1 nose1 & lips1 caus$ by a few extra /it*es1 develop$ into an actual /uff+1 till figure embroid]y 0 a ?+ ( ! pa/1 & a debas$ condition ( ta/e delight$ itself ) dolls dress$ 9 silks & laces atta*$ to ne$lework$ #8pictures1' :i* _h to be fram$ & glaz$ to keep !m free f du/6 ,! arrangem5t ( /it*es1 z 9 ! #8,opus ,anglicanum1' has be5 reviv$ 9 mod]n times by "s ( ! ,si/]hoods1 :]e !y make a po9t ( be+ #8,e>ly ,engli%'2 b x is a /yle apt to become too qua9t to suit mod]n ideas ( rev]5ce1 & x is c]ta9ly mu* m difficult to manage successfully ?an ! v]tical or horizontal arrangem5t 7see #8a' p4 #cd74 #8b' %[s a comb9ation ( bo?1 & #8c' ( ! v]tical me?od4 ,fig4 ,,iii4 is a draw+ f a figure ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 9 a gr\p repres5t+ ! #8,annunciation' on an alt>-frontal at ,/4 ,?omas's1 ,salisbury4 ,! :ole ( ! frontal is closely #8p>sem1' ) ! typical ,*]ubim1 ,angels1 fl[]s1 c41 ( ! p]iod 7?irte5? to sixte5? c5turies7 & v mu* ornam5t$ ) free & graceful scroll-"w4 ,!re is a return to ! simpl] me?od = work+ ! face2 or p]haps ,i %\ld say a cont9uation ( ?is me?od1 :i* has nev] be5 entirely giv5 up1 9 spite ( prevail+ fa%ion2 probably ! embroid]] in/9ctively feels x to be ! mo/ manageable4 ,i mean ! ev5ly work$ surface 7be x split-/it* or sat9-/it*7 on :i* ! features are work$ 9 outl9e4 ,^! /it*es lie 9 ! v]tical direction1 & !re is little1 if any1 %ad+4 ,! dress is work$ 9 sev]al %ades ( blue 7also v]tical split-/it* or f9e sat9-/it*71 & !re is v little attempt to give ! appe>ance ( relief 9 ! folds4 ,! cloak is work$ entirely 9 gold ?read1 laid horizontally1 ) ! folds m>k$ on aft]w>ds 9 r scrat*y l9es ( gre5 silk4 ,! l9+ ( ! cloak is 9 silv] ?read1 fleck$ ) black to indicate vair4 ,! hair is pale gold5-br[n1 9 split-/it*1 foll[+ ! natural curves1 & is v delicately drawn & work$4 ,! :ole ( ! gr\p is *>act]is$ by great simplicity & sweetness4 ,! vase conta9+ ! lilies1 :i* /&s 9 ! c5tre betwe5 ! ,angel & ! ,bless$ ,virg91 is ( ri*ly rais$ gold-"w2 a scroll beh9d h] %\ld]s ) ! words #8,ecce ,ancilla ,dni' balances ! w+s ( ! ,angel 9 ! composition ( ! design4 ,dur+ ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies !re 0 a spontane\s gr[? ( feel+ = tru? & beauty 9 all ! arts2 m correct draw+ & ri*] col\r+ comb9$ ) /rong & graceful design to produce p]fection 9 ne$lework4 ,9 ! mo/ beautiful examples ( ?is p]iod 7) few exceptions7 ! faces are work$ 9 natural %ades ( fle%-t9ts1 ) f9e floss-silks 9 sat9-/it*1 ei!r #8%ort' or #8long & %ort1' 9 ! v]tical direction1 ) a fair am\nt ( %ad+1 b no ca/ %ad[s4 ,! g>m5ts fall 9 noble l9es & give ! opportunity = a f9e v>iety ( col\r4 ,preci\s /ones1 metals1 & pe>ls 7 us$ ) mod]ation1 n t lavi% pr(usion :i* aft]w>ds deg5]at$ into vulg> display4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iii ,f an alt> frontal 9 ! ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,?omas ,becket 9 ,salisbury ,illu/ration ,,iv4 is tak5 f "p ( an orphrey 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 design$ by ,rafael9o del ,g>bo1 & repres5ts1 ,i ?9k1 ! highe/ po9t to :i* #8effect' %\ld g 9 ! matt] ( %ad+ & appe>ance ( relief1 p]spective1 c4 ,x is a piece ( ,flor5t9e "w1 & %[s di/9ctly ! influ5ce ( ! place & ! age4 ,?is reproduction ( c\rse does n d x ju/ice2 x is a p]fect m>vel ( col\r1 :ile ! draw+ %[s a ma/]'s h&4 ,! :ole ( ! ar*itectural backgr\nd is work$ 9 gold ?read laid horizontally1 ! effect bo? ( col\r & %ad+ be+ entirely produc$ by means ( ! silk x is c\*$ )4 ,9 places ! gold is completely veil$ by ! /it*es1 9 o!rs x gleams ?r\gh1 & aga9 x is left q b>e & %9+ ) its own lu/re alone4 ,e l9e ( ! ar*itecture is acc5tuat$ ) gold twi/ ( diff]5t degrees ( ?ickness1 & sometimes v>i$ aga9 by be+ twi/$ 9 ! opposite direction4 ,illu/ration3 7a7 ,engli% ,?irte5? ,c5tury ,illu/ration3 7b7 ,we/phalian ,e>ly ,fifte5? ,c5tury ,v4 ,a4 ,museum1 ,s4 ,k5s+ton 7,no4 #dei--aije74 ,illu/ration3 7c7 ,mod]n1 ,/it*es ,v]tical ,! g>m5ts consi/ ( ! same gold ?read :i* =ms ! backgr\nd2 x is simply c>ri$ ?r\gh ! :ole ( ! "w1#d ) ! exception ( ! head & nimbus1 :i* are work$ sep>ately & appliqu to x aft]w>ds4 ,! h&s1 ev51 are done ov] ! gold 9 %ort sat9-/it*4 ,! fle%-t9ts are col\r$ /rongly b f9ely1 & ! %ad+ is put 9 boldly4 ,! sympa?y betwe5 design & "w is s m>k$ z almo/ to indicate ! same h&2 b we h o!r examples1 :i* are kn[n to h be5 design$ by "o p]son & work$ by ano!r1 :i* %[ ! same rapport1 su* z ! designs by ,pollaiuolo embroid]$ by ,paolo da ,v]ona 79 ! *ur* ( ,s4 ,giovanni at ,flor5ce74#e ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iv4--,/4 ,&rew--,flor5t9e "w1 ,fifte5? or ,e>ly ,sixte5? ,c5tury ,v4 ,a4 ,museum1 ,s4 ,k5s+ton 7,no4 #eghg--ahei74 ,! g>m5ts ( ! figures 9 ! old] embroid]y 7 usually work$ 9 split-/it* 9 mu* ! same mann] z ! faces2 t is to say1 ! /it*+ is done 9 r[s1 foll[+ ! l9es ( ! draw+4 ,9 ! ,syon cope1 = in/ance1 ! tunic ( ! figure illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 ,,ii4 is work$ 9 ?ree %ades ( blue floss2 ! pale/ has fad$ s mu* z to be out ( range altoge!r 7a habit un=tunately common to pale %ades ( blue72 ! two d>k] ones seem to h rema9$ almo/ entirely unaffect$ by age1 light1 & we>4 ,! upp] g>m5t is work$ 9 gold ?read1 ) a bord] ( gre5 & a l9+ ( s(t yell[i%-br[n floss silk4 ,! gold-"w is done 9 ! same way z ! backgr\nd ( ! cope4 ,! ?reads lie 9 ! same direction ?r\gh\t--n m]ely 9 ! case ( ! figure ,i am describ+1 b :]ev] gold is introduc$ at all--9 l>ge masses1 z 9 ! ve/ure1 or 9 q small quantities1 su* z ! n>r[ bord] ( ! tunic4 ,x is /it*$ s z to =m ! same zigzag patt]n4 ,! l9+ ( ! upp] robe is work$ 9 a v f9e split-/it*1 ) ei!r v little %ad+ or none besides t :i* is caus$ by ! diff]5t directions ( ! /it*4 ,! folds 9 ! gold-work$ "p are indicat$ by means ( void$ l9es1 :i* are aft]w>ds fill$ up ) /it*es ( black silk4 ,! void+ at ! folds gives a l[ relief1 z ! gold goes d[n & comes up aga9 in/ead ( all ly+ flat on ! surface4 ,! hair is 9 f9e l9es ( alt]nate blue-grey & :ite floss1 done 9 split-/it*4 ,9 "s ( ! o!r figures x is gold & black1 or gold & :ite1 or black & :ite1 b always 9 alt]nate l9es 9 ! same /yle4 ,9 e>ly ,engli% "w ! be>d$ faces h ! upp] lip %av54 ,?ree %ades ( ea* col\r are commonly employ$1 n (t5 foll[+ ea* o!r v closely1 especially 9 ! case ( ! gre51 ( :i* ! light] %ades incl9e t[>ds yell[ & ! d>k] t[>ds blue4 ,!re 7 v few diff]5t col\rs 9 g5]al use = embroid]y till t[>ds ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 aft] :i* !y became mu* m v>i$1 b /ill m h>moni\s1 till crude & viol5t col\rs came 9 ) ! n9ete5? c5tury4 ,! dyes =m]ly 7 mo/ly f ,ea/]n s\rces1 :5ce ! silks also came1 & :]e1 until q lately1 v /r+5t rules 7 9 =ce conc]n+ ! col\rs & dyes p]mitt$ to be us$4 ,d'or nu seems to h be5 ! fav\rite me?od ( do+ ! g>m5ts ab\t ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,laid-"w1 kept d[n ) ei!r self-col\r$ silk or gold ?read1 lightly c\*$1 is also to be se52 & lat]1 a pretty use ( %ort-/it* 9 floss1 work$ v]tically ov] gold ?reads laid horizontally--some?+ l d'or nu1 b v mu* co>s] & m practical = ! l>g] figures1 :i* 7 !n becom+ m frequ5tly work$ 7see diagram74 ,illu/ration3 ,diagram %[+ me?od ( work+ ,%ort-/it* ov] horizontal l9es ( ,gold-?read ,ano!r way ( treat+ drap]y is to "w x solidly 9 long-&-%ort-/it* 7v]tical71 boldly %ad$1 & aft]w>ds enri*+ x ) f9e gold ?reads laid horizontally ov] ! :ole g>m5t a little di/ance ap>t1 & sewn d[n s+ly ) f9e sew+ silks or split floss ( ! same %ades z ^? x passes ov]2 or sprays or diap]s may be effective work$ ov] ! pla9 %ad$ silks4 ,! backgr\nd ( figure-"w is n v (t5 compos$ entirely ( /it*+ 9 ^! days1 :5 s _m beautiful wov5 fabrics are s easily procur$ & "t seems %ort] ?an x us$ to be4 ,b /ill1 :]e !re is n a v l>ge expanse to fill1 a work$ backgr\nd is n a luxury unatta9able2 a v satisfactory & glori\s "o is gold ?read laid 9 diap]-patt]ns4 ,laid-"w & d>n+ are quick]--! latt] makes a beautifully brok5 col\r = %[+ up l>ge outl9e figure-"w done on unblea*$ l95 or wor/$ mat]ial = hang+s4 ,i d n fancy any ( my read]s w\ld und]take su* a piece ( "w z ! backgr\nd ( ! ,syon cope2 b ! way x 0 probably done has be5 sugge/$ by ,mr4 ,lewis ,day ?us3-- #8,! /it* runs f po9t to po9t ( ! zigzag patt]n1 !n x p5etrates ! /uff1 is c>ri$ r\nd a ?read ( flax laid at ! back ( ! mat]ial1 & is br\ght to ! surface aga9 ?r\gh ! hole made by ! ne$le 9 pass+ d[n4 ,t is to say1 ! silk5 ?read only dips ?r\gh ! l95 at ! po9ts 9 ! patt]n1 & is !n caught d[n by a ?read ( flax on ! "u-surface ( ! l95 ''' x is a k9d ( "w on :i* two p]sons might be employ$1 "o on ei!r side ( ! /uff4'#f ,i v5ture to diff] f 8 op9ion on "o po9t only1 & t is t probably ! silk5 or gold ?read 0 n ! "o work$ backw>ds & =w>ds ?r\gh ! /uff1 s9ce ! flax ?read f beh9d w\ld d ! "w j z well4 ,! gold or silk w\ld ?us be sav$ f friction1 & w\ld n ne$ to be cut into ne$lefuls & ?read$ 9 a ne$le1 b c\ld be us$ f cont9u\sly1 z ,i h be=e sugge/$ = long l9es ( c\*+2 x is1 9 fact1 precisely ! same ?+1 ) ! exception ( tak+ ! #8work+' ne$le back ?r\gh ! hole x made1 in/ead ( at a little di/ance f x4 ,?is me?od is s (t5 us$ 9 f9e gold-"w = turn+ at ! end ( a r[ :5 "o does n want x to appe> on ! surface t ,i fancy x w\ld be sugge/$ by ?is4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,on ,,liturgical ,,col\rs1 ,,frontals1 ,,etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,italian ,e>ly ,sixte5? ,c5tury ,v4 ,a4 ,museum1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton 7,no4 #hchh--ahfc74 7,sugge/$ z ,c5tre = ,frontal1 ,fig4 ,i47 ,! "q ( liturgical col\rs ne$ n be v fully discuss$ "h1 z ?is is pre-em95tly a practical manual & n a treatise on ritual4 ,al?\gh ! embroidress naturally /udies ! reason & uses ( ! ?+s %e makes1 x does n prop]ly re/ ) h] :e!r ! #8,use ( ,s>um' or t ( any o!r special diocese be foll[$4 ,!re c]ta9ly seems to h be5 no v h>d & fa/ rule obs]v$ 9 ?is matt] 9 ! e>ly ages ( ! ,*ur* or ev5 9 m$ieval times4 ,f ! old inv5tories we ga!r t alt>-frontals & ve/m5ts exi/$ ( almo/ e kn[n col\r & %ade 7& "s inde$ unkn[n ones1 to u at lea/674 ,?is ( c\rse may be to "s ext5t acc\nt$ = by ! votive (f]+s s frequ5tly made by k+s & nobles ( _! own magnific5t ve/m5ts & ( spoils tak5 9 w>4#g ,^! w\ld be accept$ & us$ 9 ! ,*ur* q irrespective ( col\r & design4 ,we might conclude f ! old ,engli% illum9ations t r$1 blue1 purple1 :ite1 & gold 7 ! col\rs mo/ g5]ally us$1 or consid]$ mo/ ideally correct2 b on m c>eful inve/igation ,i ?9k we %\ld be driv5 to ! conclusion t :ile ! c>eful m9iaturi/ drew ! =ms ( :at he 0 accu/om$ to see 9 ! ord9>y s]vices ( ! ,*ur*1 he col\r$ !m accord+ to 8 own ideas ( beauty or accord+ to ! limitations ( 8 palette4 ,a r[ ( cl]gy 9 "o illum9ation1 = in/ance1 w\ld h _! albes alt]nately blue & r$2 & ,i rememb] ano!r ( an outdoor procession 9 :i* ! same arrangem5t prevail$1 ) ! prie/s' /oles col\r$ blue ov] ! r$ albes & r$ ov] ! blue ones4 ,! f\r col\rs above-nam$ be+ ! ,levitical ones1 x is probable t a p>ticul> significance 0 atta*$ to !m2 b gre5 & black 7 common be=e ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury2 & ! ,engli% use1 :i* 0 suppos$ to be def9itely settl$ by ! #8second ye> ( ,edw>d ! ,six?1' c]ta9ly includes !m4 ,?is gives u an au?oris$ sequ5ce ( at lea/ five col\rs--viz4 :ite1 r$1 violet1 gre51 & black4 ,clo? ( gold may be consid]$ z glorifi$ :ite4 ,blue1 violet1 indigo1 & purple may be all sep>ate col\rs1 or !y may be includ$ 9 ! "o t]m #8violet1' z popul>ly und]/ood4 #8,purple' inde$ is su* a wide-embrac+ ^w t x may1 9 anci5t docum5ts1 signify a mat]ial 7velvet71 :ile z a col\r x may range any:]e betwe5 crimson & blue1 b x always means some?+ ri* & gorge\s4 ,! alt>-frontal1 giv+ ! keynote = ! col\r1 %\ld be arrang$ = fir/2 !n ! ve/m5ts worn by ! m9i/]s2 &1 la/ly1 all ! o!r textile decorations1 :i* mu/ h>monise ) ! :ole4 ,x %\ld n be necess>y to *ange ^! latt] :5ev] ! alt>-frontal is *ang$1 except = ,l5t4 ,x becomes all ! m desirable !re=e to *oose su* hang+s z w look equally well ) :ite1 gre51 or r$4 ,= ,l5t !y w all be mo/ly violet--violet & r$--7r$ decoration on violet %\ld be edg$ ) black7--violet & :ite--by :i* ,i d n mean a blea*$1 cold1 dead :ite1 b a w>m1 br[ni% cream1 or silv]4 ,! violet also mu/ n be crude2 blue is pref]able g5]ally1 & x ne$ n be z d>k z x too (t5 is1 t5d+ to blackness1 especially 9 velvet4 ,indigo seems to me ! ideal col\r = ,l5t4 ,:5 "o speaks ( blue = ,l5t1 ( c\rse "o does n mean bright or c]ulean blue1 or azure4 ,^! are ! blues ( our ,"l's g>m5ts1 ( ! ,bless$ ,virg91 & ( ! ,s]aphim1 & h no?+ to d ) p5it5ce4 ,! gre5 %\ld n be too blue 9 tone1 & ! r$ is be/ kept to tawny %ades1 or real1 true r$4 ,h[ev] beautiful any "o col\r may be alone1 its behavi\r 9 company ) o!rs mu/ be te/$ if x is to be us$ ) !m4 ,i mu/ plead = =giv5ess if ,i seem to press ?is po9t unduly1 on ! gr\nd t ,i am con/antly made to suff] f a disreg>d to ?is pr9ciple :5 ,i am ask$ to devise new decorations to #8g )' impossible crudities4 ,:]ev] possible1 x is be/ to arrange all ! textile hang+s1 ve/m5ts1 c41 to be us$ 9 a *ur* at ! same "t1 & to h a def9ite s*eme ( design & col\r to "w ^u4 ,ev5 :5 ! funds necess>y to c>ry x out are n available all at once1 ! g5]al idea c\ld be fix$ ^u & ! accompli%m5t ( x c\ld foll[ by degrees4 ,too (t5 !re appe>s to be a sort ( haphaz>d effect 9 ! decoration ( *ur*es--a want ( unity1 z ?\gh ea* sep>ate ?+ 7 an aft]-?\ght1 be>+ no relation to :at _h be5 done be=e4 ,if !re are valuable embroid]ies1 c41 already 9 use1 :i* only require to be supplem5t$ by o!rs1 x is m]ely reasonable to insi/ ^u1 & n difficult to arrange1 t ! new ones d n cla% ) ! old4 ,i d n myself ?9k x necess>y to keep rigidly to "o date or /yle s long z ! "w h>monises z a :ole1 nei!r is x necess>y = all ! %ades ( e col\r us$ to be id5tical2 b x is q ess5tial t !y %\ld be h>moni\s4 ,! pr9cipal hang+s 9 use 9 our "t are ! ,alt>-frontal1 ,sup]-frontal1 ,dorsal & ,w+s4 ,curta9s are also sometimes us$ to p>tition (f "p ( ! *ur* = a ve/ry1 a belfry1 or an organ-*amb]4 ,besides ^! !re are hang+s simply = ! purpose ( cov]+ b>e walls1 9 ! *ancel or else:]e4 ,z a g5]al pr9ciple "o may say t curta9s :i* 7 orig9ally int5d$ to be drawn or loop$ back may hang 9 folds1 :ile ^? us$ m]ely z a cov]+ %\ld hang pla94 ,w+s or riddells1 portires1 c41 %\ld be full2 alt>-frontals1 dorsals1 & tape/ries = b>e walls %\ld hang pla91 & may be treat$ m pictorially4 ,! alt> /rikes ! keynote1 s to speak1 = ! :ole *ur*4 ,to x1 z ! culm9at+ po9t1 all ! decoration is direct$2 & by x we are l$ ?r\gh ! diff]5t seasons ( fa/ & fe/ival1 m>k+ ^! seasons by ! *ange ( ve/ure z def9itely z by ! *anges 9 ! ritual & s]vice4 ,an alt>-frontal is r a l>ge piece ( "w = "o p]son to und]take1 unless %e has _h consid]able practice 7:i* enables h] to "w quickly7 & has pl5ty ( "t to devote to x1 & is also possess$ ( suffici5t pati5ce to keep on ) "o ?+ till x is f9i%$4 ,a frontal c v well be work$ by sev]al ladies1 ea* tak+ a sep>ate piece on h] own frame4 ,almo/ e k9d ( design c be work$ 9 ?is way1 & t is :y ,*ur* "w is s (t5 done on l95 & appli$ to ! silk or velvet aft]w>ds4 ,!re is a popul> idea t x mu/ be done s1 b ?is is by no means ! case2 x is m]ely a matt] ( conv5i5ce4 ,x is m ideally p]fect z a matt] ( pr9ciple to "w directly on ! mat]ial to be beautifi$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,i ,9 describ+ h[ to make up a frontal we w take "o = an #h-;foot alt>1 #c feet #d in*es high4 ,we w suppose ! v>i\s details ( an ,e>ly ,engli% "o 7su* z ,fig4 ,i47 to be already work$ & pa/$ at ! back ) embroid]y pa/e z describ$ 9 ! *apt] on ,appliqu-"w1 cut out ( ! frames & neatly #8trimm$' r\nd ! edges1 leav+ su* a l9e ( l95 z w be p]fectly cov]$ ) ! outl9e ) :i* x is c\*$ d[n to ! mat]ial ! frontal is to be made (4 ,suppos+ x to be damask1 ) a patt]n t repeats e #c feet1 & t x is f #be to #bg in*es wide2 #d y>ds only w\ld be requir$1 z !re w\ld be no extra l5g? want$ to make ! patt]ns jo9 exactly at ! seams4 ,!re w\ld be ?ree seams1 :i* mu/ be neatly sewn1 ei!r ) v f9e ov]-sew+1 or ) back-/it*+1 9 silk ( ! same col\r1 tak+ ! greate/ c>e to mat* ! halves ( ! patt]n all along ! seam4 ,:5 ?is is done !re w be a cont9u\s surface ( damask #cf in*es wide & #ajj or m in*es long4 ,a l>ge /rong frame mu/ be prep>$ ) /\t l95 m\nt$ 9 x1 r l>g] ?an ! frontal is to be--say #h feet #f in*es #c feet #f in*es4 ,n[ x makes no diff]5ce to ! conv5i5ce ( work+ h[ long ! frame is2 b no woman c\ld "w to ! c5tre ( "o m\nt$ #db in*es wide4 ,"o _c com=tably "w fur!r 9 ?an ab\t #ac in*es2 !re=e1 al?\gh ! l95 %\ld be ( ! full wid?1 n m ?an twice #ac1 viz4 #bf in*es1 %\ld be pres5t$ to be work$ ^u at "o "t4 ,! easie/ way to arrange ?is is to run a tuck along ! top & bottom ( ! l95 be=e x is put into ! frame1 or two tucks along ! bottom1 accord+ to ! p>ticul> requirem5ts ( ! design4 ,a *a9-/it* sew+ ma*9e w\ld d ?is firmly & quickly1 z x is only to r$uce ! wid? tempor>ily1 & x c\ld be z quickly undone aft] x _h s]v$ its purpose4 ,if ! long b>s ( ! frame be r\nd in/ead ( flat1 bo? l95 & silk may be w\nd ^u x to r$uce ! wid? to />t )4 ,?is involves ! removal ( ! sideb>s ea* "t ! "w is #8let out'2 !y %\ld n be tak5 out altoge!r1 nei!r %\ld ! lac+ be q undone1 b m]ely loos5$ suffici5tly = ! b>s to slip g5tly out ( _! sockets2 !re %\ld be "o p]son /ation$ at ea* side-b> :ile ?is is be+ done1 to see t x is mov$ ev5ly & lac$ up z be=e1 only ) additional lac+ :]e x has be5 let out4 ,a /raight l9e %\ld be m>k$ d[n ! middle ( ! l952 x is be/ run 9 ) col\r$ silk or cotton to %[ on bo? ! "u & ! upp] sides1 z ?is w be ! />t+-po9t = all measurem5ts4 ,! c5tral l9e ( ! damask is next f\nd1 & tack$ d[n to ! "o on ! l954 ,! seams w h be5 press$ op5 & flat1 & ! selv$ges nick$ pretty deeply ) %>p scissors all along2 if !re is a h>d edge1 x %\ld be cut (f4 ,! damask %\ld !n be well /ret*$ ov] ! l951 :i* %\ld n1 z yet1 be made z tight z x w g2 aft] ! silk is on 7fa/5$ fir/ by p9s & !n sewn all r\nd71 ! :ole mu/ be /ret*$ up z well & ev5ly z possible4 ,see t ! angles ( ! frame are "r angles1 :e!r ! sides are set 9 ) pegs or screws2 all measurem5ts %\ld be tak5 q accurately by means ( a tape t w n #8give4' ,*e/]man's metallic ones are p]fect1 b require c>e 9 us+1 z !y easily break & get out ( ord]4 ,a l>ge #8/raight-edge' & #8set-squ>e' are also necess>y4 ,! frontal is n[ ready = ! embroid]y4 ,! c5tral ornam5t is plac$ on fir/2 !n ^? on ea* side2 !n ! o!rs beyond4 ,! measure c be p9n$ at ea* end ( ! frame to see t ! upp] po9ts are ev51 & aga9 to v]ify ! l[] ones4 ,sometimes ! design ( ! damask may be tak5 z a guide if ev5ly wov52 & q accurately put on ! frame2 b t %\ld be te/$ fir/4 ,:5 ea* fl[] has be5 c>efully plac$ & kept 9 position by means ( num]\s f9e /eel p9s /uck v]tically ?r\gh ! "w1 !y mu/ all be tack$ firmly ) /it*es ( f9e /rong silk or cotton /raight d[n ! c5tre & !n into any out/&+ po9ts4 ,^! /it*es %\ld be v small on ! #8"r' side ( ! "w s t !y ne$ n be tak5 out aft] x is f9i%$4 ,!n ! :ole ( ! outl9e is c\*$ ov] ! edges ( ! "w cov]+ ! little bord] ( l95 left = ?is purpose on cutt+ x out ( ! frame4 ,two1 ?ree1 or ev5 f\r full ?icknesses ( filoselle1 f\r or m ( #8,/\t ,floss1' or ( gold ?read1 make an excell5t outl9e = gold & silk embroid]y1 accord+ to ! co>s5ess or f95ess ( ! "w2 = appliqu diff]5t col\r$ cords are useful1 & = mo/ "w gold ?read or br[n filoselle w\ld be safe4 ,! c\*+ /it*es %\ld be plac$ fairly close toge!r1 & %\ld be done ) /rong silk5 ?read4 ,:5 ! m solid ornam5ts are securely atta*$ to ! frontal1 ! scroll-"w belong+ to !m may be add$ z f> z c be rea*$ )\t int]f]+ ) ! tucks 9 ! l951 :i* may !n be let out4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ii ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iii ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iv ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,v ,:5 ! l[e/ r[ is f9i%$ & ! scroll-"w1 ! fr+e is sewn on :ile ! "w is /ill 9 ! frame1 a l9e be+ fir/ drawn 7) tailor's *alk on a d>k gr\nd1 or col\r$ *alk1 yell[ by pref]5ce1 on a :ite gr\nd7 /raight along ! bottom1 :]e x w be j cov]$ by ! upp] edge ( ! fr+e4 ,n[ ! ,,fr+e is a feature ( ! "w to :i* ,i w\ld draw p>ticul> att5tion1 because x has a di/9ct arti/ic value ( its own1 :i* is too (t5 neglect$ or n und]/ood & appreciat$ z x %\ld be4 ,! use ( a fr+e z a decorative f9i% to e k9d ( textile is common to all c\ntries & all ages4 ,9 e>ly ,assyrian sculpture we see x on ! g>m5ts ( w>riors4 ,9 ! ,holy ,scriptures we read ( ! fr+e ( gold5 bells on ,a>on's ephod1 also ( ! fr+es on ! g>m5ts ( ! p ( ,god z symbols ( _! consecration2 :ile ! fr+es at ! edges ( rugs & tape/ries1 bo? anci5t & mod]n1 are s univ]sal z to simply sugge/ _! orig9--viz4 ! loose ?reads ( ! w>p left :5 cutt+ !m (f ! loom4 ,a h&some fr+e is at ! same "t ! mo/ beautiful & ! mo/ natural f9i%+ t\* to ! l[] edge ( any hang+1 :e!r pla9 wov5 or embroid]$4 ,x may also ) propriety g d[n ! sides--?\gh ?is %\ld be n>r[ & pref]ably uncut4 ,g5]ally speak+1 #b in*es is deep en\gh = ! bottom ( ! frontal1 #a in* = ! sup]-frontal1 & in* = ! sides4 ,9 arrang+ ! col\rs ( ! fr+e a l>ge proportion %\ld be giv5 to t ( ! gr\nd-"w1 damask1 c41 & !n a fair quantity to ea* ( ! pr9cipal col\rs us$ 9 ! embroid]y4 ,measurem5ts ( ! spac+ requir$1 & good-siz$ patt]ns ( ! col\rs1 ) a diagram ( _! ord] 9 ! fr+e1 %\ld always be s5t to ! manufactur] :5 ord]+ x4 ,! head+ ( ! fr+e %\ld be also specially design$1 or x is ne>ly c]ta9 to be ugly4 ,if gold ?read is us$ 9 ! embroid]y1 x %\ld also appe> 9 ! fr+e1 if n 9 ! #8fall1' at lea/ 9 ! #8head4' ,x %\ld fir/ be tack$1 !n /it*$ on1 ! upp] edge j cov]+ ! l9e1 />t+ f ! c5tre & work+ t[>ds ea* side4 ,x mu/ be /it*$ firmly ) /rong ?read or silk ( ! same col\r z "o ( ^? us$ 9 ! head2 ! fr+e mu/ n be pull$ at all tight f end to end1 b r #8eas$' on1 or x w #8draw' :5 tak5 out ( ! frame4 ,a few extra in*es %\ld be all[$ = ?is %r9kage :5 giv+ ! measurem5ts to ! manufactur]4 ,:5 ?is is all done x is ready = ! mak+ up4 ,"s may consid] ?is m]e uphol/]]'s "w1 & ?9k !y may v well1 at ?is /age1 h& x ov] to ! comm]cial work%op2 b z x is a po9t ( religi\s z well z arti/ic s5tim5t1 t at lea/ ! same guid+ _s1 if n actually ! same pair ( h&s1 %\ld see ! "w ?r\gh to ! end1 we w proce$4 ,an inn] l9+ ( firm1 ev5ly wov5 hemp or sail-clo? %\ld be cut exactly true to ! size :i* ! frontal is to be1 all[+ #b in*es at ! bottom to be turn$ up4 ,9 our suppos$ case x w be #h feet long & #c feet #f in*es wide4 ,if !re are any creases 9 x1 x %\ld be laid on a wet clo? & iron$ all ov] ) a heavy1 hot flat-iron & n fold$ aga94 ,x is made wide en\gh to use )\t seams4 ,x ought n to be /iff5$ ) glue1 or conta9 #8dress+' ( any k9d1 & %\ld be ( suffici5t sub/ance )\t x4 ,a l>ge table1 or a bo>d t c re/ on ! tre/les ( ! m\nt+ frame1 %\ld be cov]$ ) a :ite %eet & ! frontal laid on x1 face d[nw>d1 on tak+ x out ( ! frame4 ,a l9e rul$ d[n ! c5tre ( ! hemp5 clo? mu/ be plac$ to ! c5tral l9e ( ! frontal1 & ! two tack$ toge!r1 tak+ c>e t ! ne$le does n damage any delicate "p ( ! embroid]y4 ,all knots %\ld be on ! #8"r' side ( ! frontal if ! tack+ ?reads are to come out aft]w>ds1 :i* may or may n be necess>y2 ! edges are !n turn$ ev5ly1 fir/ along ! bottom & !n ! two sides1 beg9n+ f ! bottom :5 do+ ea* side4 ,x is !n to be turn$ face upp]mo/1 & ! top edge sewn to ! hemp4 ,! me?od ( hang+ ! frontal mu/ n[ be decid$ ^u4 ,x c be made ) a piece ( ! l95 to g "r ov] ! alt> & hang d[n beh9d1 weight$ ) a rod 9 ! hem2 or x c be hung by r+s or buttonholes f hooks "u ! alt>-slab4 ,! =m] me?od is ! simpl] :]e !re is no grad9e ) heavy ornam5ts to be lift$ d[n e "t ! frontal is *ang$4 ,! sup]-frontal 7frontlet is p]haps ! m correct t]m7 c !n be made 9 "o ) ! frontal1 z se5 9 _m old examples2 b ! latt] me?od seems to be ! mo/ common1 possibly f ! economical practice ( mak+ "o frontlet s]ve = _m frontals4 ,if !n we are mak+ x 9 ?is way & ! frontlet is already provid$1 we mu/ take two c>eful measurem5ts--"o f ! floor to ! hooks on ! alt>1 ! o!r f ! floor to ! l[] edge ( ! frontlet4 ,if ! latt] is #g in*es deep x w all[ #cc in*es ( ! frontal to %[ b5ea?3 ! actual height ( x w dep5d on ! position ( ! hooks4 ,! l95 l9+ is cut to all[ turn+s ( ab\t an in* d[n ! sides & along ! bottom1 & to turn ov] ! top hem cov]+ ! raw edge ( ! silk on ! "r side1 :]e x has be5 sewn d[n to ! int]l9+4 ,! l95 l9+ is n[ to be firmly /it*$ all along ) /rong back-/it*+2 ! o!r edges may be hemm$ r\nd on ! #8wrong' side aft] tack+ !m 9 place4 ,a wood5 la? may be slipp$ ?r\gh ! hem at ! bottom1 & a brass "o along ! top2 9 ?is case buttonholes may be work$ 9 ! upp] "o :]ev] ! hooks w\ld come1 in/ead ( r+s sewn on4 ,! l9+ %\ld be ( a /\t pure l95 & may be ( ! same col\r z ! frontal4 ,i h giv5 some:at m9ute directions z to ! mak+ up ( ! alt>-frontal1 z ! me?od is v simil> = all ?is k9d ( "w4 ,curta9s d n require an int]l9+1 nei!r d ve/m5ts unless ! /uff is poor1 :i* ( c\rse x ought n to be4 ,an int]l9+ ( s(t co>se musl91 or v ?9 unblea*$ calico1 p]haps helps to keep x 9 %ape & does n int]f]e ) ! grace ( ! folds2 b any?+ :i* makes a ve/m5t /iff or cumb]some %\ld be avoid$4 ,alt>-frontals are frequ5tly /ret*$ & nail$ to a light wood5 frame--a plan :i* is extremely conv5i5t1 & p]haps helps _! pres]vation :]e !y are frequ5tly *ang$--b _! textile grace is greatly dim9i%$2 :5 su* a frame is us$ ,i w\ld sugge/ cov]+ x fir/ ) a light-textur$ l95 & sew+ ! frontal to ?is1 in/ead ( nail+ x on4 ,if ! sup]-frontal1 or frontlet1 has n be5 already provid$1 we %all h to consid] ! "q ( ! dep? x ought to be made4 ,aga9 ,i c only give g5]al pr9ciples4 ,! beauty ( ! :ole dep5ds on ! due proportion ( its p>ts4 ,z alt>s are usually ne>ly ( ! same height1 :atev] _! l5g? may be1 x foll[s t a deep frontlet r$uces ! proportion ( ! frontal to a m]e ribbon if x is v long4 ,!re=e we may say1 ! long] ! alt> ! n>r[] ! sup]-frontal %\ld be4 ,t "p ( ! sup]-frontal :i* lies flat on ! top ( ! alt> %\ld always be made ( pure l954 ,x may be ( ! same col\r z ! bord] :i* hangs d[n 7if ! fair l95 clo? ) a cov] on x is n kept on always71 b x is really m practical :5 made ( undy$ l954 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,on ,,! ,,cope ,,& ,,mitre ,!re is no ve/m5t :i* has engag$ ! int]e/ ( arti/s & ne$lewom5 m ?an ! ,cope4 ,x is "p ( ! /ate app>el ( k+s1 nobles & bi%ops1 & seems to be bo? ! ecclesia/ical & secul> desc5dant ( ! glori\s ,trabea or #8,toga picta' ( anci5t ,rome1 :]e x 0 ! cu/om ( victori\s g5]als to (f] _! magnific5t robes 9 ! temples4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,fifte5?-c5tury ,bi%op 7,botticelli7 ,x seems to h ma9ta9$ its pre-em95ce z ! mo/ suitable ve/m5t = prie/ or bi%op at su* high & solemn c]emonies z ! ,coronation ( sov]eigns1 *oral ,baptisms1 ,m>riages & ,burials1 also = processions at great fe/ivals1 c4 ,! old examples :i* rema9 are (t5 extremely beautiful & int]e/+1 %[+ t ! utmo/ c>e & ?\ght & almo/ unlimit$ "t mu/ h be5 be/[$ ^u !m4 ,!y are frequ5tly embroid]$ all ov]1 or are made ( ! ri*e/ velvet or brocade ) hood & orphreys ( wov5 gold4 ,illu/ration3 ,diagram1 %ew+ proportions ( well-%ap$ ,cope4 ,scale in* #a foot ,hood may be po9t$ r\nd or squ>e at ! bottom4 ,! %ape is !oretically semicircul>1 b 9 practice x is be/1 :5 draw+ ! semicircle1 to place ! c5tre a few in*es above ! /raight l9e :i* =ms ! front edge ( ! g>m5t 7diagram74 ,?is causes ! front to be a little long] f ! top to ! hem ?an ! back is1 & ?us all[s = ! "p :i* is tak5 up at ! neck2 :5 x is worn x rises up !re f ! %\ld]s4 ,?is becomes q unga9ly :5 ! orphreys 7:i* are laid on ! edge ( ! front7 are v wide & /iff1 b x aga9 may be p>tially comp5sat$ by fa/5+ ! morse r l[ on ! orphreys & hav+ x ( a good size s z to leave a fairly wide op5+ 9 front3 ! :ole cope w !n settle l[] on ! %\ld]s4 ,!re is ano!r way ( gett+ ov] ! difficulty1 & t is to #8%ape' x to fit on ! %\ld]s4 ,i h se5 "o anci5t & "o mod]n specim5 treat$ ?us1 & !y look v well :5 9 use1 b !y are q exceptional1 & ?is me?od ( c\rse de/roys ! typical half-circle1 & w\ld require ! orphreys to be cut to fit also4 ,x is bett] to keep ! orphreys n>r[2 ! only excuse = su* v wide ones seems to be ! magnific5t embroid]y ( figures & tab]nacle-"w ) :i* !y 7 s (t5 decorat$ 9 ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies1 :5 wide orphreys became s g5]ally us$4 ,illu/ration3 ,sket* %[+ spac+ ( ,canopy-"w--typical ,engli% ?irte5?-c5tury ,cope ( ,/4 ,sylve/]4 ,ea* ( ! l>g] spaces is fill$ ) gr\ps ( figures illu/rat+ ! ,life ( ,*ri/1 small] ones ) ,angels1 ! m$allions ) birds4 ,a v fav\rite arrangem5t ( design 9 ! old ,engli% "w 0 to divide ! :ole surface ( ! cope into a s]ies ( quatrefoils1 l ! #8,syon cope1' or ( canopy-"w1 z %[n by ! cope ( #8,/4 ,sylve/]1' enclos+ gr\ps ( figures illu/rat+ ! life ( ,*ri/1 ! int]m$iate spaces be+ fill$ ) *]ubim & angels4 ,! l[e/ c5tral space 0 (t5 occupi$ by ! ,annunciation or ! ,nativity2 ! middle "o usually by ! ,crucifixion1 & ! upp] "o by ! ,"l 9 ,glory4 ,?is arrangem5t left v little room = a hood2 inde$1 at ?is p]iod !y are g5]ally s small z n to require mu* consid]ation1 be+ (t5 m]ely a triangul> enl>gem5t ( ! orphrey at ! c5tre4 ,:5 ! fa%ions *ang$ 7:i* !y seem$ to d def9itely1 if sl[ly71 our =efa!rs did n ex]cise s mu* judgm5t z we might expect 9 adapt+ _! priceless inh]itance ( ne$lework1 b hack$ away at "o "p & jo9$ on at ano!r1 q reg>dless ( ! mutilation x involv$4 ,ev5 9 ! ,syon cope ! orphreys1 :i* are suppos$ to h be5 add$ only ab\t fifty ye>s lat] ?an ! body ( ! cope1 cut (f half ( ! figures ( ! angels ne>e/ to ! edge4 ,! #8,d>oca' cope at ,madrid1 :i* is work$ 9 ! same /yle & ( v simil> design1 has its orig9al n>r[ orphrey1 & ! angels are design$ to fit into _! spaces1 b ! l>ge hood seems to h be5 an aft]-?\ght1 & a bord] & fr+e h be5 ru?lessly /ruck ?r\gh ! figures ( f\r angels enclos+ ! upp] c5tral gr\p :i* complet$ ! design4 ,9 _m ( ! lat] ones ! hood & orphreys became ! pr9cipal features ( ! cope1 & all ! decoration 0 conc5trat$ ^u !m4 ,bo? hood & orphrey are work$ sep>ately 7unless ! =m] be a quasi-hood jo9$ 9 ) ! orphrey1 or m>k$ out m]ely on ! back ( ! cope74 ,! orphrey is appli$ to ! cope 9 a long embroid]y frame1 be=e mak+ x up4 ,! hood is n usually s appli$1 b made up by itself1 l9$ & fr+$2 & fa/5$1 by means ( loops sewn on its upp] edge1 to buttons plac$ to correspond on ! orphrey 7ei!r bel[ or ov] x74 ,! cope & its l9+1 ( silk or l951 %\ld be cut out exactly alike1 all[+ at lea/ half an in* = #8turn+s' all r\nd 7see ,a on diagram74 ,t9y snippets %\ld be cut out ( ^! #8turn+s' along ! curv$ edge 7,b on diagram71 !n outside & l9+ %\ld h _! edges turn$ up & tack$ sep>ately1 !n aga9 tack$ toge!r1 fir/ d[n ! middle1 !n along ! /raight edge1 & la/ly r\nd ! curve1 9 ea* case />t+ f ! c5tre4 ,x is !n ready to be slip-/it*$ toge!r--aga9 beg9n+ at ! c5tre1 bo? = /raight & curv$ edges4 ,illu/ration3 ,mitre ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury ,! cope is fa/5$ 9 front ) a l>ge clasp or broo*1 call$ ! morse4 ,?is may be made ( metal enri*$ ) preci\s /ones1 9 :i* case x is "w = ! arti/-goldsmi?4 ,or x may be ( mat]ial ri*ly embroid]$1 ) or )\t jewels2 a good size = a morse is f #f to #h in*es long by #c in*es wide4 ,"s ( ^? worn by bi%ops at ,k+ ,edw>d ,,vii4's coronation 7 #ab in*es long4 ,x %\ld be fa/5$ firmly on ! "r side ( ! g>m5t ab\t #ab in*es f ! c5tre1 & may h ?ree or f\r l>ge /rong #8eyes' sewn on ! o!r edge 9 :i* ! hooks w fit1 :i* are to be fix$ securely on ! correspond+ spot on ! left side ( ! cope4 ,bo? ! hood & ! l[] edge ( ! cope itself may be f9i%$ (f ) a bord] or a fr+e1 or bo?4 ,! ,mitre--also "p ( ! (ficial dress ( bi%ops & ar*bi%ops--is a l95 cap ( a ne>ly triangul> =m z se5 f ! front or back4 ,! appe>ance ( x is famili> to all 79 a some:at exagg]at$ =m7 9 ! armorial be>+s ( _m ,sees1 & 9 pictures1 c41 :]e t[>ds ! fifte5? c5tury x gr[s tall] & bigg]1 & m unbecom+ z "t goes on4 ,! old] ones are (t5 m]ely decorat$ ) an orphrey d[n ! middle & a b& r\nd ! head2 an embroid]$ rose or a jewel is sometimes plac$ on ei!r side ( ! v]tical b&4 ,9 ! m ornam5tal ones !y are completely cov]$ ) embroid]y ( ! f9e/ description1 (t5 jewell$ :]ev] possible--b ! same arrangem5t is g5]ally foll[$4 ,! lappets 7inful7 are work$ to mat*1 & are plac$ 9 ! middle ( ! head-b& at ! back1 ei!r close toge!r or an in* or two ap>t4 ,!y are f #aj to #ad in*es long & f #a to #c in*es wide1 f9i%$ at ! ends ) fr+e or tassels4 ,! accompany+ illu/ration ( "o ( ! mitres ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury %[s an excell5t %ape1 & al?\gh well cov]$ ) embroid]y is n ov]-ornam5t$4 ,! height is #aj in*es & ! size r\nd ! head #bd in*es4 ,a mitre is mu* easi] to make ?an w\ld at fir/ sight appe>4 ,a simple "o ( ! dim5sions ( ,/4 ,?omas's requires a piece ( mat]ial #ab in*es wide & ab\t #bf in*es long 7( c\rse1 if made = any individual bi%op x mu/ be proportionate to ! size ( 8 head74 ,x may be made ( clo? ( gold or any preci\s mat]ial1 or ( pure pla9 :ite l954 ,illu/ration ,to ornam5t x1 ! mat]ial %\ld be /ret*$ on a frame1 ! c5tre m>k$1 two l9es drawn 7tack$ 9 ) f9e silk7 v]tically & horizontally at "r angles to ea* o!r1 ,a ,a & ,b ,b4 ,!n m>k+ (f an in* along all ! edges = turn+s1 a diagonal l9e is drawn f ,a to ,c & aga9 f ,c to ,d4 ,! p>ts enclos$ )9 ^! l9es & ,d ,e are :]e ! ornam5tation is work$1 includ+ ! orphreys4 ,space = ^! %\ld be m>k$ out next1 or !y may be work$ /raight on to ! /uff2 9 any case1 all except ! "o :i* cov]s ! seam %\ld be /it*$ on be=e x is tak5 out ( ! frame4 ,! mak+ up is done simply by /it*+ x toge!r 9 ! fir/ place s z to make a circul> b&2 !n ! top edges are plac$ toge!r1 turn+ 9 ! in* 7or :atev] is all[$ =74 ,a slit ne>ly ! dep? ( ! turn+s %\ld be cut at ,c & a snippet cut out at ,a 7see diagram74 ,x is !n to be sewn neatly toge!r along ! top1 ,g meet+ ,g1 ) ,a at "o end & ,d at ! o!r4 ,:5 ?is is done ! inful are sewn "u ! edge ( ! mitre at ! back1 & a l9+ 7previ\sly prep>$ ( exactly ! same %ape1 b a trifle small]7 slip-/it*$ all r\nd ! l[] edge & kept 9 place by means ( a few /it*es at ea* po9t4 ,! mitre %\ld !n be fold$ q flat1 & ! edge ( ! folds outl9$ ) gold twi/ or f9e cord2 a little tuft ( silk & gold ?read1 or a small gold acorn or "s su* small ornam5t1 is sometimes fa/5$ on ! apex ( ea* angle4 ,?is is = a simple l95 mitre1 = ! m gorge\s ones1 preciosa & aurifrigiata1 a b& ( lea!r is sometimes plac$ inside betwe5 ! outside & ! l9+1 wide en\gh to rea* f ,e to ,b & ,c :]e ! angle beg9s 7#d in*es 9 diagram74 ,! triangul> pieces are cut out be=e mak+ x up 7along ! dott$ l9e 9 diagram71 & ano!r piece ( mat]ial 7n necess>ily l ! re/ ( ! mitre7 is cut to fit1 & sewn neatly all r\nd1 be=e ! edg+ ( cord is put on4 ,! %ape ( ?is top piece w v>y f a squ>e to any loz5ge1 accord+ to ! angle at :i* ! po9t ( ! mitre is made4 ,9 my diagram x is a "r-angle1 & s ! top w\ld be #h in*es squ>e4 ,x %\ld h an int]l9+ ( some?+ light1 yet fairly /iff4 ,p>*m5t us$ to be consid]$ ! correct ?+ = ?is int]l9+1 b a good coll> int]l9+ or tailor's canvas w suffice4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,on ,,eu*>i/ic ,,ve/m5ts1 ,,*alice-,,veil ,,& ,,burse ,! ,ornam5ts ,rubric z x /&s at ! beg9n+ ( our ,pray]-books has be5 an op5 field = controv]sy = _m ye>s4 ,s mu* light has be5 ?r[n by ?is means ^u cu/oms & obs]vances once almo/ =gott5 & fall5 into neglect 7:i* obvi\sly at ! "t ( ! ,rubric 7 be=e ! eyes or fre% 9 ! memories ( all ,*ur*-p71 t we c n[ once m picture to ourselves1 )\t ef=t1 :at our =efa!rs /rove successfully to reta9 z p]missible = ! maximum 7if n absolutely comm&$ z ! m9imum7 ( di/9ctive ve/ure & ritual to be us$ 9 ! s]vices ( ! ,*ur* ( ,engl&4 ,= ! ,celebrant--! ,amice1 ! ,albe1 ! ,girdle1 ! ,/ole1 ! ,maniple or ,fanon1 & ! ,*asuble4 ,= ! ,epi/ol] & ,gospell]--! same ve/m5ts1 except t in/ead ( ! ,*asuble a ,dalmatic or ,tunicle is worn4 ,= ! ,alt> itself--a ,frontal1 ,fair l95 clo?1 two ,corporals 7or ,corporal & ,*alice-veil1 or ,corporal & ,pall71 ,purificators1 & ,corporal-case or ,burse4 ,! symbolism ( ! ve/m5ts may be consid]$ 9 a two-fold aspect3 bo? z signify+ ! g>m5ts worn by our ,"l at ,8 ,passion 7& s keep+ be=e ! eyes ( ! congregation ! #8cont9ual remembrance'71 &1 secondly1 z repres5t+ ! virtues requir$ 9 ! m9i/]s4 ,?us we may see 9 ! amice1 fir/1 ! clo? ) :i* our ,"l 0 bl9dfold$ :5 ! ,jews /ruck ,him on ! face1 &1 secondly 7z x is fir/ plac$ on ! head71 #8,hope--! ,helmet ( ,salvation4' ,9 ! albe1 fir/1 ! :ite g>m5t 9 :i* ,he 0 array$ by ,h]od1 & secondly1 ,innoc5ce ( ,life1 or a #8consci5ce void ( (f5ce t[>d ,god4' ,& s1 ( ! o!rs1 ! girdle1 /ole1 & maniple may repres5t ! cords & b&s ) :i* ,he 0 b\nd & sc\rg$1 &1 secondly1 purity or *a/ity1 & ! yoke ( ,*ri/4 ,:ile 9 ! *asuble we see ! royal robe 9 :i* ,he 0 mock$ z k+1 &1 secondly1 cov]+ & embrac+ all1 ! glori\s grace ( *>ity4 ,! amice1 albe1 c41 w be m p>ticul>ly describ$ 9 ! *apt] on ,l95-"w4 ,! alt>-frontal we h already spok5 (4 ,9 ?is place we w consid] ! /ole1 maniple1 *asuble1 & dalmatic4 ,9 a little book su* z ?is1 ! prim>y int5tion ( :i* is to be ( practical use to ! embroidress1 we _c d m ?an t\* ^u ! v outside m>g9 ( hi/ory4 ,x is1 inde$1 extremely int]e/+ to trace back to _! primitive uses & beg9n+s all ! articles ( ve/ure & ornam5t us$ by ! ,*ur* 9 h] s]vices2 b ,i c m]ely rem>k 9 pass+ ^u ! evolution ( ! ,liturgical g>m5ts1 :i* seem to h proce$$ gradually f ! mo/ simple & elem5t>y requirem5ts2--begun by necessity1 cont9u$ by rev]5ce1 & complet$ by symbolism4 ,putt+ aside1 !re=e1 le>n$ rese>* into ! orig9 ( ! /ole 7or>ium1 /ola7 & ! maniple 7mapula1 sud>ium1 mantile1 or fanon71 we ne$ n g fur!r back ?an ! n9? or t5? c5turies to f9d !m 9 g5]al use by ! cl]gy mu* ! same z we see !m n[4 ,! /ole & maniple are usually made to mat*1 & foll[ ! col\r ( ! season1 z %[n by ! alt>-frontal4 ,ab\t #i feet is ! full l5g? ( ! =m] & #c feet ( ! latt]2 #b y>ds ( damask w be suffici5t = bo?1 if ! /ole has a seam 9 ! c5tre1 & half ! wid? only ( #bg-;in* damask is requir$4 ,& ! be/ %ops w supply ! half-wid? if reque/$ to d s2 b if o!r ve/m5ts are be+ made at ! same "t1 ) ! same mat]ial1 x is m economical to get all ! silk 9 "o l5g?1 z x w cut to m advantage ?an by gett+ ! pieces sep>ately4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,i4--,rub5s's ,portrait ( ,/4 ,ignatius ( ,loyola1 79 ,w>wick ,ca/le71 %[+ elaborately work$ ,*asuble ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ii4--,anci5t =ms ( ends ( ,/ole & ,maniple ,! wid? ( a /ole & a maniple may be f #a to #b in*es 9 ! n>r[e/ or c5tral "p4 7,!y are sometimes made wid]1 b are n s conv5i5t to we> "u a *asuble47 ,!y may be p]fectly /raight f end to end1 z 9 ,illu/ration ,a1 or !y may wid5 out by degrees f ! c5tre to ! fr+e1 z at ,d4 ,!y may h a squ>e end add$ on l ,c1 or beg9 to wid5 f #h to #aj in*es above ! fr+e 7see ,b71 or1 aga91 only j ov] ! fr+e1 z 9 ,e & ,f4 ,all ^! are typical anci5t examples4 ,z to ! decoration ( !m1 z a rule !y 7 ei!r wov5 9 gold ?read or embroid]$ ri*ly ?r\gh\t ! :ole l5g? 9 gold diap] patt]ns1 or geometric devices1 ) crosses1 roses1 c41 at int]vals2 or ) figures1 z 9 ! celebrat$ ,durham relics ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t4 ,! fr+es 7 (t5 v h&some1 ei!r knott$ or pla91 9 v>i\s col\rs or ( gold alone2 sometimes tassels at ! corn]s 7 us$ in/ead ( fr+e1 or little gold5 bells4 ,! mat]ial ( :i* !y are made %\ld be ri* & h&some--by pref]5ce ! same z ! *asuble4 ,a deacon's /ole#h %\ld n be s ri*ly decorat$ z t ( ! prie/4 ,illu/ration3 ,e>ly ,twelf? ,c5tury ,f ,,ms41 ,briti% ,museum4 ,v#f ,! *asuble 7*esible1 casula1 planeta1 amphibalus1 pnula7 seems 9 v e>ly days to h be5 ! ord9>y out] dress ( ! cl]gy z well z ! "o worn at ! celebration ( ! ,eu*>i/2 no d\bt ! latt] w\ld be h&som] bo? 9 mat]ial & ornam5tation1 s z to make a di/9ction4 ,! mo/ usual =m w\ld seem to be t ( a semicircle jo9$ up ! front1 leav+ an ap]ture suffici5t = ! head ( ! we>] to pass ?r\gh4 ,x may possibly h be5 ( a completely circul> %ape to beg9 )1 ) a hole 9 ! c5tre l a pon*o or a gab]d9e4 ,x may h be5 cut away at ! sides = conv5i5ce1 till by degrees x arriv$ at ! two typical %apes ( #8,go?ic1' or po9t$1 & #8,roman1' or squ>e4 ,! =m] has always be5 m g5]ally us$ 9 our ,*ur*1 b ! latt] 0 n uncommon at ! "t ( our ,rubric4 ,fig4 ,,iii4 %[s ! e>ly =m ( ,go?ic4 ,x is f "o ( ! tombs 9 ,worce/] ,ca!dral ( ! e>ly ?irte5? c5tury2 !re are numb]s ( equally f9e ones to be se5 on ! effigies ( prie/s & bi%ops 9 our old p>i% & ca!dral *ur*es all ov] ! c\ntry2 ! old] !y are1 ! full] & s(t]-look+ is ! ve/m5t z a rule4 ,!y (t5 h "o /raight orphrey 7or pill>7 9 front & a ,y-%ap$ cross at ! back 7:]e ! squ>e-%ap$ ones h a ,lat9 cross74 ,sometimes !y h a ,y-cross 9 front also4 ,occasionally !re is no orphrey 9 front1 z 9 ,fig4 ,,iii4 ,x is n unlikely t ! orphrey 0 add$ to cov] ! seam4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iii4--,a ,bi%op's ,tomb 9 ,worce/] ,ca!dral4 7,%[+ old =m ( ,engli% *asuble7 ,ano!r & v graceful way ( decorat+ ! *asuble is by embroid]+ x ov] ! %\ld]s betwe5 ! arms ( ! ,y-cross1 ei!r on ! back alone or ext5d+ ov] ! front also4 ,?is k9d ( ornam5tation is call$ ! #8,fl[]1' & may be se5 on ! *asuble ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury 7p4 #eh7 & also on ,fig4 ,,iv4 ,almo/ ! only diff]5ce betwe5 a mod]n *asuble ( a good #8make' & ! old ,go?ic is ! seam on ! %\ld]s1 :i* makes x less cumb]some to we>4 ,al?\gh ! ,go?ic may be ! m arti/ic g>m5t1 ! squ>e *asuble c also be a noble-look+ ve/m5t 9 its old] & ampl] =m1 z may be se5 by ,fig4 ,i41 tak5 f ,rub5s's portrait ( ,/4 ,ignatius ( ,loyola4 ,x also gave scope = mu* decoration1 z ! broad1 pla9 surface1 unbrok5 by folds1 l5t itself to m pictorial treatm5t4 ,!re are _m 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton & o!r museums ) repres5tations ( ! ,crucifixion1 surr\nd$ by gr\ps ( sa9ts & att5dant angels4 ,! *asuble foll[s ! col\r ( ! season4 ,a good av]age size is #ed in*es long at ! back 7#c or #d in*es %ort] 9 front7 & #ej in*es wide at ! wide/ "p4 ,x takes #f y>ds ( #be- or #bg-;in* mat]ial1 n c\nt+ any extra l5g? :i* may be requir$ = #8repeat' ( patt]n1 :i* mu/ nev] be =gott5 :5 ord]+ any k9d ( figur$ /uff4 ,:5 !re are orphreys1 !y %\ld be work$ sep>ately on /rips ( sat91 velvet or damask1 ( a diff]5t col\r or mat]ial f t ( ! ve/m5t1 & appli$ to x on a frame be=e jo9+ ! two halves toge!r at ! %\ld]s4 ,a m$allion may be plac$ at ! int]section ( ! ,y-cross1 :i* %\ld n be too l[ d[n4 ,! mat]ial ( :i* ! orphrey is made %\ld nev] be less ri* ?an ! ve/m5t to :i* x is appli$4 ,! ,,dalmatic worn by ! ,gospell] or deacon & ! tunicle worn by ! ,epi/ol] or sub-deacon are v simil> to ea* o!r 9 %ape & g5]al appe>ance4 ,! latt] is usually a little simpl] 9 decoration4 ,_m v beautiful examples may be se5 9 our museums & picture gall]ies4 ,x 0 a fav\rite cu/om ) ! ,old ,ma/]s to repres5t ! ,angel ,gabriel 9 ! dress ( a deacon 9 pictures ( ! ,annunciation4 ,!re 7 also _m well-kn[n ones ( ,,ss4 ,/eph5 & ,lawr5ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iv4--,diagram %[+ dim5sion ( ,*asuble ,! _w-r5[n$ #8,dalmatic ( ,*>lemagne'#i is /ill 9 exi/5ce 9 ! ,treasury ( ! ,vatican1 :i* %[s ! fre$om ) :i* ma/]s ( ! craft c\ld treat ! decoration ( ! dalmatic ) ! happie/ results4 ,9 ^! days we g5]ally keep to ! two /ripes 7clavi7 & two or f\r app>els4 ,! l5g? ( ! dalmatic & tunicle %\ld be ab\t ! same z t ( ! *asuble or a little %ort]4 ,!y also foll[ ! col\r ( ! season :]e !re are complete suites ( ve/m5ts1 b = poor] *ur*es x has n always be5 consid]$ necess>y4 ,! l9+ ( all ve/m5ts %\ld be ( a diff]5t col\r f ! ve/m5t itself4 ,x may be ( ei!r silk or l952 ! ri*] ones are pref]ably ( silk1 z x is n s heavy & cumb]some z l954 ,! n>r[ orphrey is plac$ /raight d[n ea* side ( ! dalmatic f ! %\ld] to ! hem1 :i* may be fr+$ all r\nd2 sometimes a ri* tassel hangs ov] ea* %\ld]1 z 9 ! sket* ( ,/4 ,lawr5ce4 ,! app>els are rectangul> pieces ( silk or velvet1 usually embroid]$ v ri*ly 9 gold & col\rs1 & made up q sep>ately f ! ve/m5t :i* !y adorn4 ,!y are atta*$ by means ( lightly work$ tack+ or slip-/it*es4 ,= an amice ! app>el is g5]ally /iff5$ ) an int]l9+ ( tailor's canvas4 ,x %\ld be ab\t #bb in*es long & #c or #d in*es deep4 ,9 use x looks some?+ l a coll>1 & is sometimes call$ ! amice coll>4 ,= a dalmatic or tunicle ! app>els may be ab\t #ba #ae in*es = ! skirt & #ba #i = ! upp] "o2 b !re is no exact rule ab\t size1 only !y %\ld n be too long 7n m ?an #ba in*es to fit 9 betwe5 ! clavi71 & = ! skirt n too deep4 ,!y are g5]ally %ort] on ! albe ?an on ! dalmatic--f #ab to #ae in*es4 ,!y may be ( any col\r2 a crimson gr\nd ) gold1 blue1 & :ite decoration has always be5 a fav\rite comb9ation & looks well ) mo/ ve/m5ts4 ,a bold design & pl5ty ( gold & col\r are desirable4 ,illu/rations ,,iii4 & ,,iv4 9 ,*apt] ,,vi4 give good fifte5? or sixte5? c5tury designs = an app>el4 ,!y are done 9 ^! col\rs4 ,! e>li] ones 7 g5]ally ( geometric design1 l ! /oles 9 ,illu/ration ,i41 & ! int]lac$ circles ) cross 9 ! c5tre1 c4 ,a piece ( ri* brocade or damask1 c41 0 (t5 us$ in/ead ( embroid]y4 ,= sleeves & skirt ( albe !y may mat* ! amice coll>4 ,inde$1 ,i h se5 f\rte5?-c5tury "w 9 :i* ! /ole1 fanon1 orphreys ( *asuble1 & app>els ( albe & amice are all ( ! same patt]n1 & ! effect 0 v good4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,v4--,*asuble ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury 7,at ,s5s7 ,! corporal-case1 or burse1 & ! silk *alice-veil are usually en suite ) ! alt> & ve/m5ts4 ,x is said by "s t ! silk *alice-veil is a =eign innovation & has no prop] place 9 ! ,anglican ritual1 b x is ( su* g5]al use n[ t we mu/ m5tion x "h4 ,x is usually made ( ! ri*e/ silk or sat91 & embroid]$ all ov]1 or at ! corn]s & c5tre1 or ) a bord] all r\nd & a cross or monogram 9 ! middle ( "o side1 l9$ ) silk & edg$ ) a n>r[ fr+e or cord1 or made up pla94 ,! design is frequ5tly1 b n necess>ily1 made to mat* ! burse4 ,:5 ?is is desir$1 x is important to arrange x s t ! design & embroid]y are n spoilt :5 ! veil is 9 use2 = x mu/ be rememb]$ t ! burse always pres5ts a flat surface ( at lea/ #i in*es squ>e1 :ile ! veil is int5d$ to hang ov] ! *alice1 s t ! c5tre 7) a radius ( probably f #b to #c in*es7 is ! only "p t w lie flat :5 9 use4 ,i once saw a beautifully work$ *alice-veil entirely spoilt by ! heads ( ! f\r ,evangeli/s hang+ upside d[n ov] ! *alice4 ,! design _h app>5tly be5 copi$ f an alms-di% ( ,b5v5uto ,cell9i1 & 0 extremely beautiful 9 itself & q suitable = a burse1 b did n l5d itself happily to a *alice-veil4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,vi4--,ornam5t = ,*asuble1 call$ ! ,fl[] ,! burse %\ld be made ( ri* & beautiful mat]ial4 ,9 _m ( ! old ones ! back 0 made ( lea!r1 or some?+ else useful & /rong2 b n[adays !y are g5]ally made ( damask or sat91 ! same z ! front4 ,n9e in*es squ>e is a good size4 ,if a *alice-veil & burse are be+ made to mat*1 #a y>d ( #bg-;in* mat]ial w usually be en\gh = ! two4 ,fir/ cut a squ>e ( #be in*es = ! veil2 !n two squ>es ( #aa in*es ea* f ! piece t is left2 ?is all[s #a in* all r\nd = turn+s4 ,:5 ! embroid]y on ! silk = ! burse is f9i%$ x %\ld be cut out ( ! frame ) ! l95 /ill at ! back1 n cut away r\nd ! "w1 or x w be apt to %[ a ridge :]e x leaves (f :5 x is /ret*$ ov] ! bo>ds2 besides1 x is ne$$ to protect ! silk :]e ! edge ( ! bo>ds w\ld o!rwise come 9 contact ) x4 ,h ready f\r pieces ( good /rong c>dbo>d1 cut exactly squ>e1 ea* #i in*es4 ,?is c be got at any good %op :]e m\nts = pictures are cut4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,vii4--,/4 ,/eph5 7aft] ,v4 ,c>paccio7 ,two pieces ( f9e :ite l951 ea* #aa in*es squ>e1 %\ld be ready1 nicely wa%$ & iron$4 ,! l95 is to be /ret*$ ov] two ( ! bo>ds1 ! embroid]$ silk ov] "o1 & ! pla9 silk1 = ! back1 on ! o!r4 ,x c be done ei!r by tak+ long /it*es f "o edge ( ! /uff to ! o!r1 "r across ! bo>ds1 or by means ( a v small quantity ( embroid]y-pa/e on ! inside ( ! turn+s4 ,!n ea* l95-cov]$ bo>d is plac$ ) a silk-cov]$ "o1 & ! two sewn toge!r ) ! f9e/ /it*es ( ov]-sew+1 9 :ite ?read or silk4 ,aft] ?is ! l95-fac$ sides are plac$ toge!r1 ! silk be+ outside1 & ! two sets ( bo>d are jo9$ at ! left side by means ( f\r or five t9y h+es1 work$ /rongly ?r\gh ! silk & inn] l9+1 9 buttonhole /it* ( ! same col\r z ! cov]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,viii4--,/4 ,lawr5ce 7aft] ,fra ,angelico7 ,"s p make ! back & front all 9 "o piece ( silk1 b ?is is n s conv5i5t ei!r to "w or to make up4 ,!re is m difficulty 9 gett+ ! design exactly 9 ! middle & /raight on ! bo>ds2 !re is1 besides1 a con/ant /ra9 aft]w>ds on t edge ( ! silk :i* acts z a h+e e "t x is op5$ & %ut4 ,ano!r div]sity 9 ! way ( mak+ up a burse is ! lett+ 9 ( side-pieces1 l a purse or pocket-book4 ,?is also is difficult to d neatly1 & is inconv5i5t 9 use2 b :]e x is pref]r$ x may be made less awkw>d by sett+ 9 a /raight-edg$ piece ( l95 in/ead ( a #8gusset-%ap$' "o1 cov]+ x ) silk l ! burse-cov]1 & /it*+ x firmly into a pleat be=e jo9+ ! two bo>ds toge!r4 ,x w !n m readily keep 9 place1 & if x bulges :5 9 use x w n look s slov5ly z x does :5 ! side-pieces are ( l95 alone4 ,_m ( ! old burses 7 sewn up closely along ?ree sides1 ) ! f\r? only left op51 b ?is is obvi\sly inconv5i5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ix4--,diagram %[+ dim5sions ( ,dalmatic ,illu/ration3 ,corporal-case or ,burse4 7,italian1 ,sixte5? ,c5tury47 ,f a draw+1 size ab\t #aj 94 squ>e ,v4 ,a4 ,museum1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton 7,no4 #aeaa--achh74 ,illu/ration3 ,*alice-veil4 7,italian1 ,sev5te5? ,c5tury47 ,f a photograph1 size ab\t #bd 94 squ>e ,v4 ,a4 ,museum1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton 7,no4 #bcg--ahie74 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,on ,,bann]s1 ,,etc4 ,ecclesia/ical bann]s v>y to almo/ any ext5t 9 size1 %ape1 & mat]ial1 z well z design4 ,illu/ration3 ,,design ,,= ,,bann] ,"o ( ! simple/1 mu* 9 use 9 ! old5 times1 0 ! ,bann] ( ,/4 ,george1 ! patron ,sa9t ( ,engl&4 ,x is suitable to ne>ly e place & occasion1 & consi/s ( a r$ cross on a :ite gr\nd1 & is ( a pla9 rectangul> %ape ) a fr+e or bord] all r\nd4 ,! *oir bann] g5]ally has z its *ief ornam5t ! figure ( ! patron sa9t1 or ! emblems ( ! d$ication ( ! *ur*1 or ! coat-(-arms ( ! p>i% or see1 ) ! "n ( ! *ur* on ! upp] bord]4 ,x may h orphreys d[n ! sides1 or be #8p>sem' ) fl[]s1 or ! :ole ( x may be treat$ m or less pictorially 7)9 a bord]7 ) an incid5t 9 ! life ( ! sa9t4 ,! o!r bann]s 9 g5]al use are ^? belong+ to ! diff]5t ,*ur* guilds & societies work+ 9 ! p>i%1 su* z ,temp]ance societies 7a fav\rite device = ?is is ,/4 ,george & ! ,dragon71 ,sunday s*ools1 ,mission>y societies1 #8,c4,b4,s4' ,embroid]]s' ,guilds1 c4 c4 ,appliqu "w1 z ,i h be=e obs]v$1 is admirably suitable = bann]s1 :e!r ! design consi/s ( figures or emblematical devices4 ,! mat]ial %\ld be good ( :atev] k9d1 & /rong1 & ! "w firmly & closely done to /& we> & te>1 especially if us$ 9 outdoor processions4 ,b a pa9t$ bann] is really m suit$ to our climate ?an a work$ "o4 ,i d n mean an imitation ( embroid]y4 ,no?+ c\ld be 9 worse ta/e ?an ! pret5ce ( su* a ?+1 b a good pa9t+ on canvas or any suitable mat]ial1 9 oils or temp]a1 :i* w n be greatly affect$ by sun%9e1 ra91 or fog1 w\ld answ] all ! requirem5ts ( an outdoor processional bann] f> bett] ?an a m delicate embroid]$ "o4 ,aft] pa9t+ ,i recomm5d ,inlay1 & ?irdly ,appliqu 9 suitable mat]ials = bann]s4 ,^! me?ods are describ$ 9 ,*apt] ,,vi4 ,b ( c\rse = use 9 a build+ ord9>y embroid]y 9 gold & silks is n out ( place :]e funds p]mit4 ,a pla9 rectangul> bann] is made up 9 ! same mann] z an alt>-frontal4 ,b a less simple %ape is n q s easy to f9i% (f neatly4 ,i !re=e give a diagram %[+ h[ to arrange ! mak+ up ( a m intricate =m4 ,illu/ration3 ,tack+s ,! black l9es %ew ! edge ( ,int]-l9+4 ,! dott$ l9es1 :]e turn+s are cut4 ,! f9e l9es %ew ! tack+4 ,! bann] is laid face d[nw>d on ! table & ! int]l9+ 7previ\sly cut exactly to "r size & %ape7 tack$ d[n to x ?r\gh ! c5tre & ne> ! edges4 ,! dott$ l9es %[ h[ ! mat]ial ( ! bann] is to be cut to make ! turn+s lie flat4 ,x is !n to be laid face upw>ds & all ! edges turn$ & tack$ closely ov] ! int]l9+4 ,! out] l9+ may !n be laid ^u x1 ! corn]s cut & ! edges turn$1 mak+ x ab\t "o-eigh? in* small] ?an ! o!r2 ! two are !n plac$ toge!r1 tack$ once m & !n firmly sewn all r\nd4 ,if ! fr+e has an ornam5tal head+ x %\ld be put on la/ ( all1 b if n x %\ld be ins]t$ & firmly /it*$ 9 place be=e ! out] l9+ is sewn d[n4 ,all ! edges may be ev5ly press$ ) a w>m iron aft] ! tack+-?reads are remov$4 ,next to ! pla9 rectangul> %ape1 ! s+le po9t at ! bottom is ! easie/ to make up4 ,proportion 9 size & %ape is ! great ?+ to aim at4 ,a squ>e & a half is a fair "o = a rectangle4 ,v>iations %\ld be r 9 fav\r ( additional l5g? ?an additional wid?1 b no exact rule c be giv51 z s mu* dep5ds on ! design4 ,x %\ld be borne 9 m9d t l9es go+ p>allel ) ! long side t5d to l5g!n1 & p>allel ) ! %ort side to %ort51 ! app>5t size ( any figure4 ,a bann] %\ld n be too l>ge & heavy1 9 consid]ation = ! p]son :o has to c>ry x1 nei!r %\ld x be too small1 or x w look poor & insignificant1 h[ev] good bo? mat]ial & workman%ip may be4 ,if possible x %\ld be work$ on bo? sides1 z ! expanse ( l9+ :i* is display$ :5 x is 9 use is n v int]e/+ to look ^u1 & is 9 evid5ce = q z long a "t z ! front dur+ a procession4 ,vas>i says t ,botticelli inv5t$ ! me?od ( "w ,i h describ$ z ,inlay = ! use ( *ur* bann]s1 consid]+ x m effective ?an any o!r k9d ( "w & hav+ ! advantage ( be+ equally visible on bo? sides ( ! bann]4 ,botticelli drew beautiful designs = ne$lework ( ?is k9d1 b x _h be5 actually 9 use = o!r purposes _m c5turies be=e4 ,illu/ration3 ,pall1 belong+ to ! ,saddl]s' ,company ,"s ( ! f9e/ specim5s ( e>ly ,engli% ,*ur* embroid]y :i* h surviv$ to our "t are to be se5 9 ! fun]al ,,palls or h]se-clo?s belong+ to ! old guilds & companies4 ,x seems to me t x w\ld be a good ?+ if ea* p>i% *ur* _h n[ su* a dec5t & seemly cov]+ = h] dep>t$ z 0 cu/om>y 9 e>li] days4 ,! pall is /ill us$ at ! burial ( great p]sons4 ,^? ( u :o 7 pres5t at ! fun]al ( ,que5 ,victoria w n h =gott5 ! beautiful "o work$ = t occasion by ! ladies ( ! ,royal ,s*ool ( ,art ,ne$lework4 ,! t]rible masses ( black velvet1 c41 us$ 9 ! la/ c5tury seem to h left a s5se ( recoil 9 ! m9ds ( _m aga9/ ! use ( ! pall altoge!r1 b if x 7 once realis$ t black is altoge!r unnecess>y 7:ite or r$ or blue & gold be+ q z (t5 us$ 9 =m] times 9 ! ,engli% ,*ur*7 ,i ?9k t ! idea w\ld be g5]ally approv$ ( hav+ "o beautiful cov]+ = ! use ( ri* & poor alike4 ,( c\rse1 x w\ld n be possible or suitable = e simple p>i% *ur* to h su* magnific5t embroid]ies z are %[n1 = in/ance1 on ! illu/ration "h giv5 ( ! ,saddl]s' ,pall1 or z ! ,fi%mong]s'1 ,v9tn]s'1 or o!r ri* m]*ants' guilds1 b a h&some clo? ( r$ or blue brocade ) a text work$ on ! bord]1 or a simple symbolic design 9 appliqu repeat$ at int]vals1 or a pla9 cross 7! sign :i* c be read & und]/ood by all7 go+ ov] x f side to side & f end to end1 w\ld n be v co/ly4 ,! c5tre ( ?is "o is ( ri* r$ & gold velvet brocade1 & ! bord] is magnific5t ) col\r$ silks1 gold1 c4 ,desk-hang+s1 :i* are ( use = ! bett] pres]vation ( ! books laid ^u !m1 & sometimes desirable z introduc+ a little col\r & com=t among ! wood & /one-"w ( pulpit or read+-desk1 are usually1 ?\gh n necess>ily1 ( ! same col\r z ! alt>-frontal or o!r hang+s1 s f> z ! gr\nd-"w is conc]n$2 ! embroid]y also ought to h>monise 9 col\r & /yle1 especially if !y come into view at ! same "t4 ,! same may be said ( almsbags1 book-m>k]s1 kneel]s1 & any o!r textile furni%+s !re may be4 ,= a desk1 a piece ( silk or velvet1 c41 %\ld be measur$ wide en\gh to cov] ! flat "p ( ! desk 7all[+ a little extra on ea* side = #8turn+s'71 & ! l5g? %\ld be suffici5t to hang d[n ab\t #ab to #af in*es 9 front only ( a pulpit desk1 b bo? back & front ( a fald/ool or pray] desk3 #f to #h in*es is deep en\gh = ^!1 :i* %\ld be embroid]$ & fr+$ bo? front & back4 ,a simple bord]-patt]n ei!r upright or lat]al 9 motive looks z well z any?+ "h1 z x is n int5d$ to attract p>ticul> att5tion to itself4 ,alt> & (fice-books may be cov]$ ) v beautiful embroid]ies1 & if ! mat]ials ( :i* !y are made are good & sub/antial !y w /& a fair am\nt ( we> & la/ _m ye>s4 ,,almsbags %\ld n be v elaborately work$1 z !y soon we> out or yet dirty :5 9 con/ant use4 ,?ree-eigh?s ( a y>d ( tw5ty-f\r in* mat]ial is en\gh to cut two if arrang$ 9 ! mann] %[n on ! diagram1 ?us3-- ,x w be notic$ t ! back ( ea* bag ,a1 is cut 9 "o piece & ! front1 ,b1 ,c1 is cut 9 two pieces4 ,! int]l9+1 :i* %\ld be ( a good quality ( tailor's canvas1 is cut 9 ! same way2 ! silk or l95 l9+--! #8bus9ess' "p ( ! bag--is made a v little small] ?an ! work$ "p ( ! front ,b4 ,to make up ! almsbag1 aft] ! embroid]y is work$ on ! silk 7or :atev] ! mat]ial may be71 ! l95 at ! back may be cut away r\nd ! "w if x makes x too clumsy4 ,!n int]l9+ & embroid]$ front are tack$ toge!r1 corn]s cut & curves nick$ be=e turn+ ! edges ov]1 ! upp] "p ( front & ! :ole back treat$ 9 ! same way4 ,!n ! /\t silk or f9e l95 l9+ is jo9$ along ! sides & bottom ) f9e back-/it*+1 & ! upp] edge hemm$ d[n to ! top ( embroid]$ front & along ! dott$ l9e ( upp] front 7see ,d74 ,illu/ration3 ,c5tral ,ornam5t at ,sides & ,ends ( ,pall1 belong+ to ,saddl]'s ,company ,! two p>ts are !n fir/ tack$1 !n sewn toge!r ) f9e ov]-sew+1 done 9 silk ( ! same col\r z ! mat]ial1 & ! bag is f9i%$4 ,sometimes a f9e cord is sewn all r\nd ! bag4 ,! embroid]y ought to be f9e & close to we> well2 x is a nice little piece ( "w = beg9n]s to try _! h& on4 ,illu/ration3 ,bible1 b\nd = ,que5 ,elizabe? 9 ruby velvet1 embroid]$ 9 col\r$ silks1 gold & silv] ?read1 & se$ pe>ls 7size1 #af #aa7 7,9 ! ,bodleian ,libr>y7 ,kneel]s frequ5tly consi/ m]ely ( mats & /rips ( c>pet1 & c]ta9ly f an arti/ic po9t ( view good c>pet is bett] ?an poor ne$lework4 ,b if p w h ! pati5ce to d x !re is no ne$ to h bad ne$lework :5 !re is an ideal /it* = ! purpose :i* requires no te*nical skill 9 embroid]y--:i* calls 9 fact = no?+ 9 ! work] b dilig5ce1 pati5ce1 & accuracy 9 c\nt+4 ,i ref] to ! good old cross-/it*1 :i* un=tunately has got itself into disrepute by its devotees try+ to make x d "w = :i* x is manife/ly by its nature unfit1 & by ! crude col\r+ :i* 0 common at ! "t ! s-call$ ,b]l9-"w 0 9 vogue4 ,if we return to ! e>ly patt]n-books ( ,g]man & ,v5etian orig9 7!re are _m republi%$ 9 ! pres5t day7 x %\ld be q easy to *oose good & suitable ones f among !m1 avoid+ z a rule ^? sold 9 %ops z #8exclusively ecclesia/ical1' :i* are g5]ally hide\s1 & also any t make attempts at %ad+ naturali/ic foliage & blossom3 see t ! design frankly ackn[l$ges ! limitations ( ! me?od & ?us makes arti/ic use ( x 7see ,illu/ration ,f1 ,*apt] ,,xii474 ,good /rong wool or silk & l95 canvas %\ld be select$ & ! "w done ) a #8rug' ne$le4 ,?is "w is easily made up1 ! edges turn$ ov] & /rong flax or hemp5 clo? hemm$ to x4 ,an int]l9+ ( co>se felt may be add$ if extra ?ickness is desir$4 ,! mod]n use ( ! ,,book-,,m>k] 9 ! ,holy ,bible1 ,(fice1 & ,alt> books seems p>tly to be occasion$ by ! abs5ce ( illum9at$ ,initials1 ,v]sals1 c41 :i* 9 =m] days assi/$ ! read] 9 f9d+ 8 place 9 ! book4 ,b !re 0 (t5 9 m$ieval times a small h&k]*ief 7sud>iolum7 atta*$ to ! alt>-book by a ribbon = ! use ( ! (ficiat+ prie/1 & ?is /r+ w\ld naturally sometimes be us$ z a #8m>k]4' ,9 ! c\rse ( "t1 l all o!r ?+s us$ 9 ! sanctu>y1 ?is w\ld become respl5d5t ) gold & embroid]y1 till ! ornam5tal took ! place ( ! useful & rema9$ only z a symbol4#aj ,book-m>k]s %\ld n be wide or clumsy or !y defeat "o ( ! objects = :i* !y exi/--! pres]vation f we> & te> ( ! books 9 :i* !y are plac$4 ,x w\ld p]haps be m conv5i5t if !y 7 fa/5$ into ! b9d+1 b z ?is is seldom done effectually 9 ! fir/ place1 & !y soon get worn out1 ! movable ones1 :i* c easily be replac$1 are n[ 9 g5]al use4 ,a simple device at ea* end & ! appropriate f9i% ( a good fr+e are all t is necess>y4 ,= ! sake ( h>moni\s appe>ance1 & n = any ritual reason1 !y are usually made en suite ) ! ve/m5ts & alt>4 ,illu/ration3 ,diagram %[+ h[ to cut two ,almsbags ,:5 work+ book-m>k]s suffici5t ribbon %\ld be left bel[ ! design to turn up & cov] ! back ( ! "w4 ,! raw edge w be turn$ 9 & x w be slip-/it*$ along ! top & ov]-sewn d[n bo? sides4 ,! fr+e is !n ov]-sewn to ! extreme end ( ! m>k]4 ,if ! #8head' ( ! fr+e is n suitable = ?is treatm5t1 ! ribbon t cov]s ! back ( ! "w may be cut sep>ately & ! head ( ! fr+e ins]t$ betwe5 ! two4 ,! back may also be embroid]$4 ,illu/ration3 ,anci5t ,pulpit-hang+ 9 ,/apleton ,*ur*1 ,%rewsbury ,illu/ration3 ,ornam5t = ,horse-clo?1 belong+ to ! ,fi%mong]s' ,company ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,on ,,! ,,pr9cipal ,,/it*es ,,us$ ,,9 ,,l95-,,"w ,9 all ! previ\s *apt]s ,i h assum$ t ! embroidress w\ld c>ry out ! sugge/ions giv5 by means ( gold & silv] ?read1 floss silks1 c41 work+ !m ei!r directly ^u "s ri* fabric su* z silk or velvet1 or else on l95 ) ! ultimate purpose ( transf]r+ x to ! m preci\s mat]ial1 or1 ?irdly1 on a l95 gr\nd :i* is ev5tually cov]$ s entirely ) embroid]y t no trace ( ! orig9al mat]ial appe>s4 ,i h m5tion$ col\r$ l95s & l95 ?read z desirable mat]ials :]e economy is a consid]ation1 to be us$ = ! same purposes & 9 ! same mann] z silk & gold1 c4 ,i n[ propose to treat ( l95-"w z a sep>ate bran* ( ,*ur* ne$lework1 diff]5t bo? 9 reg>d to ! mat]ials employ$ & 9 ! me?od ( us+ !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,sampl] = ,l95-"w ,to beg9 )1 z ! gr\nd-"w w be ( :ite l951 :i* naturally requires frequ5t wa%+1 ! decoration ( x mu/ ei!r be deta*able 7z 9 ! case ( #8,app>els'71 or x mu/ be ( su* a nature z to )/& injury "u ! necess>y processes ( ! laundry4 ,?is limits ! mat]ials = ! embroid]y to l95 ?read1 cotton1 crewel wool1 wa%+ silk1 & a c]ta9 make ( tamb\r gold :i* c be conv5i5tly work$ ?r\gh ! sub/ance ( ! l954 ,x excludes 7g5]ally speak+7 all loose surface-/it*es & highly rais$ relief "w2 b on ! o!r h& x all[s ( _m curi\s & div]sifi$ /it*es :i* c only be work$ satisfactorily :5 done 9 ! h& )\t a frame1 su* z *a9-/it*1 buttonhole1 c4 c4 ,9 *oos+ ! mat]ials1 :e!r x be ! l95 itself or ! embroid]y ?reads1 a c>eful judgm5t is requir$ to select only ! be/ & mo/ durable4 ,if col\rs are to be us$ 9 ! ornam5t1 x is well to te/ !m be=eh& z to _! behavi\r "u ! ordeal ( wa%+4 ,! gu>antee ( ! labels on _m ( !m is insuffici5t4 ,! l95 itself ought also to be wa%$ 9 boil+ wat] be=e ! cutt+-out or embroid]+ is attempt$4 ,h&-made & grass-blea*$ l95s are mu* to be pref]r$ to ! m p]fect-look+ b less reliable products ( ma*9]y4 ,l95 ?read = embroid]y is n s easy to "w ) z "s ( ! cottons prep>$ = ?is purpose2 b x looks s well :5 c>efully h&l$ t x repays a little extra tr\ble 9 ! us+4 ,x is apt to come untwi/$ 9 ! friction ?r\gh ! /uff1 & !n to break r readily2 ! rem$y is to roll ! ne$le betwe5 ! f+] & ?umb f "t to "t dur+ ea* ne$leful1 to keep x twi/$ "r1 or to *ange h&s1 work+ ) ! left if possible1 or f ! opposite end ( ! "w :]e x is conv5i5t4 ,! ne$lefuls also %\ld n be too long4 #8,d4,m4,c4' cottons 7( :i* !re are a great numb] ( diff]5t k9ds7 are v nice-look+ & pleasant to "w )2 ! col\rs also are good4 ,= :ite "w ,i pref] ,cl>k's ,an*or 7 brod]71 ! numb]s f #e to #aj be+ especially good & useful4 ,,! ,,/it*es ,!re is a great v>iety 9 ! /it*es :i* may be employ$ 9 l95 embroid]y1 b = ea* sep>ate piece ( "w x is be/ to keep to "o or two only4 ,9 ! accompany+ sampl] ,i h contriv$ to %[ ab\t a doz5 diff]5t ones )\t s]i\sly int]f]+ ) ! unity ( ! design2 b x is to be tak5 m]ely z a sampl] ( /it*es1 & ( ^? only ! mo/ desirable = ,*ur* l954 ,all ?is k9d ( "w %\ld be solid & firm )\t be+ drawn too tight4 ,x %\ld nev] be s tightly done z embroid]y :i* is work$ 9 a frame1 if ! l95 becomes puck]$ or drawn out ( %ape x w nev] #8come "r' aft]w>ds1 s ! /it*es ought to be well practis$ on a wa/e piece ( l95 till ! "r degree ( t5sion is asc]ta9$4 ,a want ( due reg>d to ?is is ! cause ( mu* disappo9tm5t 9 "w done 9 ! h&2 if too loose x soon becomes %abby1 & if too tight x makes a s]ies ( small holes all r\nd ! "w1 aft] repeat$ ef=ts ( ! laundress to make ! ?+ lie smoo?ly by means ( mu* /ret*+ & heavy iron+4 ,9 g5]al me?od1 embroid]y work$ loose 9 ! h& diff]s f t done 9 a frame1 9 t ea* /it* is complet$ by "o action ( ! ne$le in/ead ( two1 z x goes 9 & out ( ! /uff4 ,illu/ration ,,sat9-,,/it*1 m>k$ ,a on ! sampl]1 is ne>ly always padd$ fir/ by runn+ a few /it*es backw>ds & =w>ds 9 ! opposite direction to t ( ! sat9-/it*1 :i* cov]s x by go+ #8ov] & ov]1' ! ne$le go+ 9 at "o edge ( ! outl9e & com+ out at ! o!r z ne>ly z possible at "r angles4 ,! /it*es %\ld be plac$ q close toge!r1 & %\ld nev] be mu* m ?an in* across3 if ! design %[s a wid] space to be fill$ x mu/ be subdivid$ by a void$ l9e4 ,"s work]s pad _! sat9-/it* v ?ickly1 ?9k+ to make x h&som]2 b all v high relief is a mi/ake f an arti/ic po9t ( view1 z x de/roys ! delicacy "o expects to see 9 l95-"w1 & obtrudes itself unduly ev5 :5 work$ entirely 9 :ite4 ,inde$1 "s au?orities g s f> z to say t ! *ange ( surface or texture caus$ by ! /it*]y is ! only legitimate effect 9 :ite "w2 b ,i ?9k ! majority w\ld all[ a little relief1 provid+ x is n exagg]at$1 especially z x causes ! sat9-/it* to lie mu* m smoo?ly ?an :5 done )\t any "u lay] ( cotton4 ,next to ! sat9- & *a9-/it*es ,i ?9k ,,buttonhole-,,/it* is p]haps ! mo/ useful = l95 embroid]y4 ,simple buttonhol+ is work$ f left to "r1 sett+ ! ne$le 9 & out at "r angles to ! outl9e1 hold+ ! ?read d[n ) ! left ?umb at ea* /it* :ile ! ne$le goes ov] x4 ,bo? *a9- & fea!r-/it* may be consid]$ v>iations ( buttonhole1 ! pr9ciple ( ! me?od be+ ! same 9 ea* case1 viz4 work+ f left to "r 7or f ! top d[nw>ds71 hold+ ! ?read "u ! ?umb = ! ne$le to pass ov] z x pi]ces ! /uff & comes out aga9 at "o #8/roke4' ,9 ord9>y buttonhol+ ! /it*es are plac$ z ne> toge!r z possible3 at a little di/ance ap>t x becomes #8blanket-/it*1' ( :i* !re are z _m v>iations z ! +5i\s ne$lewoman *ooses to make1 b :i* are n appropriate to our pres5t purpose4 ,to "w ! foliation m>k$ ,b on ! sampl]1 x %\ld be slightly padd$1 exactly z = sat9-/it*1 & ! ridg$ side ( ! /it* kept to ! outl9e2 r\nd ! inn] curves1 if a suffici5t numb] ( /it*es are ins]t$1 ! ridge w /& up a little & acc5tuate ! #8eye' ( ! curve v prettily4 ,! firmness ( outl9e obta9$ by buttonhol+ has caus$ x to be appli$ to ! mo/ beautiful designs = cut-l95 "w 7see ,illu/ration1 p4 #hb71 :i* may be c>ri$ out ) any am\nt ( detail )\t ! lea/ dang] ( its fray+ or gett+ out ( %ape1 & :i* w la/ & we> z long z ! l95 itself4 ,! outl9e %\ld be run r\nd be=e work+ ! buttonhole = ?is purpose1 ! /it*es kept close toge!r & drawn r tight] ?an :5 int5d$ to lie on ! surface4 ,illu/ration ,! inn] outl9es1 also m>k$ ,b on ! sampl]1 are done 9 ! same /it*1 9 ! "o case set 9 /raight & 9 ! o!r slant+4 ,! t9y rosettes above are work$ by sett+ ! ne$le 9 at ! same place at ea* /it*4 ,by draw+ ! ?read fairly tight1 a small neat hole is arriv$ at 9 ! c5tre ( ea*2 if ! l95 is v h>d & /rong1 ! spot %\ld be pi]c$ ) a /iletto be=e work+4 ,illu/ration ,ano!r application ( ! pr9ciple is %[n z a #8fill+' /it* at ,c on ! sampl]4 ,x is work$ l "o ( ! lace /it*es1 except t ! ne$le takes up a bit ( ! l95 b5ea? at ea* /roke 7in/ead ( #8be+ 9 ! air1' z lace may be truly def9$74 ,an outl9e ( *a9-/it* %\ld be work$ fir/1 z x provides a neat & conv5i5t b\nd>y = ! r[s ( buttonhol+ to beg9 & end )4 ,br++ out ! ne$le on ! edge to ! "r ( ! work]1 x is c>ri$ /raight across ! "w to ! left & set into "o ( ! *a9-/it*es !re2 x is !n br\ght out at ! next *a91 & ! long ?read buttonhol$ ov] till x arrives at ! beg9n+ ( ! ?read :]e x 0 fa/5$ on4 ,! same process is repeat$ till ! space is fill$1 ! /it*es 9 ea* r[ ( buttonhol+ be+ plac$ betwe5 ^? ( ! previ\s r[1 & ea* r[ beg9n+ at ! left ov] ! ?read laid across f ! "r4 ,?is w be se5 cle>ly by ! detail ,c1 :i* is v mu* enl>g$ to %[ ! work+1 b ! r[s ( buttonhol+ are n usually mu* m ?an ( an in* deep4 ,x comb9es admirably ) *a9-/it* = leaves1 fl[]s1 & ev5 figures1 ! /ems & small details be+ work$ 9 *a91 & ! fill+ 9 ?is solid =m ( buttonhole1 :ile features & ! folds ( g>m5ts may be cle>ly indicat$ by void$ l9es4 ,,fea!r-,,/it*1 m>k$ ,d on ! sampl]1 may be consid]$ ano!r developm5t ( ! buttonhole-/it*1 ! simpl] =ms ( x be+ m]ely "o1 two1 or ?ree slant+ buttonhole-/it*es tak5 alt]nately f ! "o side & ! o!r ( imag9>y b\nd>y l9es4 ,9 practis+ ! /it*1 until ! work] gets accu/om$ to x1 x is a good plan to trace real b\nd>y l9es1 det]m9+ ! wid? to be kept to1 & two o!r l9es at equal di/ances )9 ^!1 z a guide = keep+ ! /it*es all ( ! same size4 ,fea!r-/it* by itself makes a v pretty bord] patt]n1 b x always seems a little frivol\s unless x is subdu$ by an enclos+ l9e ( *a9-/it* or buttonhole1 ) ei!r ( :i* x w comb9e mo/ happily4 ,! *a9 may be done fir/ on ea* side 7mak+1 9 fact1 ! b\nd>y = wid?71 & !n ! s+le fea!r-/it*es tak5 f side to side into ea* *a9 9 turn1 be+ c>eful to pick up a t9y bit ( ! /uff on ! ne$le1 z well z ! ?read ( ! *a91 at ea* /it*1 o!rwise x w be only a surface-/it*1 :i* does n we> s well1 ?\gh ! appe>ance is almo/ exactly ! same4 ,if buttonhole be us$ = ! edge1 ei!r x %\ld be done slant+1 to agree ) ! fea!r1 or ! latt] %\ld be work$ 9 upright /it*es to suit ! buttonhole4 ,9 ?is case x does n matt] :i* is done fir/1 z ! /it*es g betwe5 & n into ea* o!r4 ,illu/ration ,,h]r+-,,bone is some:at simil> 9 appe>ance to fea!r-/it*1 b ! me?od ( work+ is q diff]5t4 ,x is begun f ! opposite end ( ! bord]1 work+ f ! bottom upw>ds1 & ! ne$le is set 9 ! same direction z ! l9e ( ! bord]1 n at "r angles or diagonally1 b on ! l9e itself4 ,! /it*es are tak5 alt]nately f side to side1 & ! ?reads cross ea* o!r naturally1 )\t any int]v5tion ( ! ne$le or ?umb ( ! work]4 ,x is a /it* well kn[n to ! neat-f+]$ h\sewife = keep+ flat ! cut edges ( a seam :]e a hem is consid]$ too clumsy4 ,z a decoration x is seldom us$ 9 its simple/ =m2 b ,i h se5 _m beautiful pieces ( embroid]y execut$ entirely 9 o!r =ms ( ! same /it*1 su* z ,swiss or ,close h]r+-bone or ,fi%-bone4 ,! me?od ( "w is %[n "h1 & ,i ?9k ne$s no fur!r description4 ,9 ! ?ird diagram ( ?is /it* x w be notic$ t ! ne$le goes at "r angles ) ! outl9e1 bo? 9 ! l>ge /it* f edge to edge1 & 9 ! little /it* 9 ! middle4 ,?is makes ! "w less ?ick & sub/antial ?an ! ,swiss1 :i* gives ! same effect at a great] exp5diture ( silk or cotton1 c4 ,illu/ration ,,back-,,/it*+ is v useful = mak+ f9e l9es1 = foll[+ outside ( an outl9e :i* may seem too h>d1 or = break+ up a backgr\nd1 z 9 ! c5tral petal ( ! fleur-de-lys 9 ! sampl]1 :]e x answ]s ! same purpose z dots or #8sympa!tic l9es' 9 a draw+1 by fill+ a flat surface quietly & unobtrusively4 ,x is well to "w x 9 r co>s] ?read ?an ! sat9-/it* x accompanies4 ,! /it*es %\ld n lie too close toge!r2 a v small piece ( ! /uff %\ld be tak5 up on ! ne$le at ea* /it*1 & ! po9t ( ! ne$le br\ght out at ! spot :]e ! next /it* is to be4 ,if ! dots d n look l>ge en\gh1 ea* /it* %\ld be gone ov] twice1 in/ead ( only once1 at exactly ! same place4 ,:5 ?ree or f\r /it*es are us$ "o ov] ! o!r1 !y make a smoo? rais$ knot pref]able to ,fr5* knots = l95-"w1 z !y d n get dis>rang$ by iron+4 ,:5 only "o or two /it*es are us$ = ea* dot1 ! ne$le %\ld pi]ce ! ?read at ! back z x goes ?r\gh f "o dot to ! next place4 ,,cross-,,/it* is1 ,i ?9k1 too well kn[n to ne$ mu* 9 ! way ( description4 ,b ! application ( x to l95-"w w\ld well repay m att5tion ?an is commonly giv5 to x4 ,i ne$ only po9t to ! accompany+ examples f ,s\? ,k5s+ton to %[ some?+ ( ! beauty t may be arriv$ at by ?is simple k9d ( "w4 ,!re are ?ree typical ways ( do+ ?is1 ! fir/ 7z 9 ,illu/ration ,f7 by mak+ a patt]n on ! l95 by means ( cross-/it* alone1 9 "o col\r4 ,! second 7,f1 f71 by mak+ ! patt]n by ! l951 ! backgr\nd be+ 9 cross-/it*4 ,! ?ird1 by comb9+ cross-/it* ) back-/it* = ! f9e l9es1 by means ( :i* ! small] detail c be describ$ )\t break+ up ! patt]n too mu*4 7,see ,f1 f74 ,x c be div]sifi$ by us+ two or m col\rs1 b a m$ley is undesirable4 ,i myself pref] ! patt]ns work$ 9 "o col\r only2 & ,i believe mo/ ( ! old "w 0 done 9 ei!r r$1 gre51 blue1 or br[ni% yell[1 ea* us$ alone1 & mak+ by itself q suffici5t contra/ ) ! :ite l95 on :i* x 0 work$4 ,illu/ration3 ,illu/ration 7,f71 ,cross-/it* ,spani%1 ,sixte5? ,c5tury4 ,v4 ,a4 ,museum 7,no4 #bbg--ahhj7 ,if ! l95 us$ is too f9e to all[ ! c\nt+ ( ! ?reads1 9 ord] to keep ! /it*es ( a uni=m size & to foll[ ! patt]n correctly1 a f9e canvas may be tack$ ov] x1 & ! "w done ?r\gh ! two ?icknesses4 ,:5 x is f9i%$1 ! ?reads ( ! canvas c easily be drawn away1 leav+ ! "w on ! l95 suffici5tly accurate if x has be5 c>efully done4 ,i w\ld recomm5d ! use ( an embroid]y frame = "w done on ?is sy/em1 z ! /it*es ought to be set 9 q v]tically to keep !m true4 ,all canvas or #8cu%ion' "w may be done on o!r textiles by means ( ?is me?od1 & = q co>se "w a frame is unnecess>y4 ,!re is yet ano!r application ( cross-/it* admirable = l95-"w1 :i* 0 mu* 9 fav\r = ! bord]+ ( corporals1 c41 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 & pres5ts a light] effect ?an ! ord9>y solid-look+ cross-/it*4 ,9 appe>ance x is v simil> to #8,lacis' 7a d>n+ on co>se1 squ>e-me%$ net1 or on small-me%$ nett+74 ,?is op5-work$ cross-/it* is accompli%$ by draw+ ! ?read x is work$ ) q tight at ea* half-/it* t is tak5 into ! l951 ! fir/ process ( ! #8cross'-/it* is work$ all along "o r[ be=e ! second1 :i* #8crosses' ov] x4 ,x is ei!r work$ 9 two col\rs1 "o = ! patt]n & "o = ! gr\nd1 or ! gr\nd alone is work$1 leav+ ! l95 to =m ! patt]n1 9 ! same mann] z ,f1 f1 ! gr\nd ( ! bord] becom+ op5-"w4 ,x may be ?us work$ ) a beautiful lacy effect 9 :ite ?read or silk = alt>-l954 ,9 ea* case ! ?read us$ mu/ be f9e & /rong4 ,illu/ration3 ,illu/ration 7,f1 f7 ,spani%1 ,e>ly ,sixte5? ,c5tury4 ,! same back & front4 ,v4 ,a4 ,museum1 ,s4 ,k5s+ton 7,no4 #bbd--ahhj7 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,on ,,alt>-,,l95 ,! l95 requir$ = s]vice at ! ,holy ,table includes a #8,fair ,l95 ,clo?1' a ,corporal1 ,*alice-veil & ,pall1 or a pair ( ,corporals2 ,purificators1 & a ,cr$5ce ,clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,portion ( an ,alt>-clo? 7,embroid]$ ,cambric71 ,italian ,! fir/-nam$ %\ld be made to fit ! top ( ! alt> exactly z to wid?1 b may hang d[n at ea* end to )9 a foot or s ( ! floor1 includ+ ! fr+e4 ,! hem along ! sides %\ld be "o in* wide & t at ! ends ab\t ?ree in*es wide4 ,if any embroid]y is work$ on ! "p :i* lies flat on ! top1 x %\ld n be done 9 high relief1 & may consi/ ( five crosses1 "o 9 ! c5tre & "o at ea* corn] ab\t an in* f ! edges ( ! alt>1 work$ 9 *a9 or close h]r+-bone1 or v slightly padd$ sat9-/it*4 ,! two ends :i* hang d[n may be enri*$ by any am\nt ( embroid]y1 & any ( ! /it*es describ$ 9 ! la/ *apt] may be us$4 ,_m ( ! cl]gy pref] _! alt>-l95 work$ entirely 9 :ite2 l95-?read1 silk1 or cotton may be employ$2 :]e col\r is n object$ to1 r$1 blue1 gre5 & yell[1 ei!r s+ly or 9 comb9ation1 may produce v beautiful results4 ,illu/ration ,i41 p4 #hj1 tak5 f an alt>-b& at ,s\? ,k5s+ton1 is work$ ) ! names ( sa9ts1 alt]nately r$ & blue1 ! foliage gre51 fruit r$ & yell[1 fl[]s r$1 :ite & blue4 ,! /it* us$ ?r\gh\t is close h]r+-bone or braid-/it*1 ) ! exception ( ! qua9t little birds1 :i* are done 9 cross-/it*4 ,= less elaborate "w "o ( ! cross-/it* bord]s ,f & ,f1 f1 p4 #gg1 & work$ 9 r$ silk or 9 gold col\r1 w\ld look well1 & all ! re/ ( ! alt>-l95 c\ld be done to mat*1 or ) a n>r[] bord]4 ,= :ite "w ,illu/ration ,,ii4 is v satisfactory4 ,! outl9e ( ! leaves may be done 9 *a9-/it*1 ! ve9s & grapes 9 sat9-/it*1 ! quatrefoil 9 fea!r-/it*2 ! sacr$ monogram may be ei!r solid sat9-/it*1 divid$ d[n ! middle ( ea* d[n-/roke by a void$ l9e1 or outl9$ ) *a9-/it* & fill$ ) ! buttonhole fill+ or ) sat9-/it* dots1 or aga91 ) close fea!r-/it* l ! quatrefoil4 ,! /ems ( ! v9e may be fill$ 9 ! same mann]1 & ! leaves ) a s]ies ( back-/it*es1 l ! illu/ration giv5 = ,*alice-veil4 ,a neatly sewn hem is bett] = alt>-l95 ?an hem-/it*+ or drawn ?read2 ! latt] especially be+ some:at flimsy1 & de/roy+ to a c]ta9 ext5t ! we>+ prop]ties ( ! fabric1 is decid$ly unsuitable = ?is purpose1 except p]haps "o k9d1 ( :i* ,i give an illu/ration "h 7,illu/ration ,,iii41 p4 #ha74 ,9 ?is "s ( ! /r&s ( ei!r w>p or weft are )drawn z 9 ord9>y drawn-?read "w1 b in/ead ( be+ m]ely ti$ toge!r by means ( ! ne$le & ?read1 or ! spaces betwe5 fill$ up ) /it*es1 ! abs5t /r&s are replac$1 & "o might say m ?an made good by ! d>n+ :i* builds up ! patt]n4 ,?is d>n+ might be done all 9 :ite-l95 ?read1 or col\r may be introduc$ z 9 ?is example1 :i* is ( blue & :ite alt]nate m$allions1 & ! fr+e is spac$ ) blue to correspond4 ,! ?reads )drawn %\ld be c\nt$ if ! l95 is fairly co>se1 b if v f9e1 measurem5t w suffice = accuracy & is n s try+ = ! eyes2 inde$1 aft] a little practice1 nei!r %\ld be necess>y 9 ! case ( ! /r&s tak5 up by ! ne$le 9 ! c\rse ( ! "w4 ,9 my example--:i* is done on a heavy homespun l95--tw5ty-f\r ?reads g to ! half-in*1 bo? 9 w>p & weft1 & ,i w\ld recomm5d t ?is patt]n %\ld be practis$ on no?+ f9] until x is ?or\ghly le>nt1 z x is some:at intricate4 ,! n>r[ bord] above & bel[ ! pr9cipal patt]n is simple en\gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,i4--,portion ( ,l95 ,alt>-clo? ,b&1 embroid]$ 9 v>i\s col\r$ silks 9 close h]r+-bone or ,plait-/it* ,g]man1 ,fifte5? ,c5tury4 ,9 ,v4 ,a4 ,museum 7,no4 #g1jbe--ahfj74 ,to "w x1 beg9 by draw+ ?ree-eigh?s ( an in* deep1 !n ?read+ a ne$le ) blue l951 silk or cotton1 take up five ?reads 7or _! equival5t "o-eigh? ( an in*71 & knot ! blue ov] !m ) a s+le knot1 j to keep x 9 place to />t )2 lay ! end along ) ! /r&s ( ! l951 & "w ov] x by tak+ an equal numb] ( /r&s on ! ne$le 9 ! opposite direction to ! fir/ lot4 ,?is mu/ be done backw>ds & =w>ds till ne>ly half ! b> is firmly & ev5ly cov]$ ) blue4 ,!n take up five & leave five1 d>n+ 7ov] tw5ty altoge!r7 backw>ds & =w>ds ab\t f\r times to make ! cross-b>4 ,! fir/ b> is to be cont9u$ up to ! end1 !n ! o!r /roke ( ! ,h-=m is to be work$ ! same z ! fir/1 only1 in/ead ( do+ ! cross-b>1 ! ne$le is j run ?r\gh ! =m] /it*es 79 ) ! w>p-/r&s74 ,!y are work$ alt]nately two blue & two :ite1 & ,i /rongly recomm5d blue or gre5 to be us$ ) ! :ite = practice1 = ! sake ( ! work]'s eyes1 z all :ite "w is und5iably bad to d v mu* (4 ,to fa/5 (f ! ?read x is simply run ?r\gh ! /it*es already done & cut (f close4 ,to "w ! l>g] "p ( ! patt]n1 ?reads are drawn to ! dep? ( "o in* 7see ,a1 on ,illu/ration ,,iv41 :i* is v mu* enl>g$ to %[ ! me?od ( "w74 ,?is w be = a r[ ( half m$allions4 ,a v f9e ne$le & ,no4 #ajj or #abj cotton is us$ to collect ! /r&s into a s]ies ( upright b>s 7,b71 by twi/+ ! f9e cotton ov] ea* gr\p ( f\r 7or an eigh? "p ( ! ?reads :i* ea* m$allion takes to d74 ,x %\ld be twi/$ r\nd & r\nd fairly tightly1 f "o end to ! o!r1 & a few /it*es into ! l95 w help to keep !m ap>t at ea* end4 ,:5 ?is is done1 ano!r in* may be drawn1 leav+ a few ?reads ( ! l95 intact betwe5 ! two halves ( ! m$allion1 ,d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ii4--,bord] = ,fair ,l95 ,clo?1 suitable = work+ all 9 :ite--9 ! same /yle z ,no4 ,,vi ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iii4--,/rong ,drawn-?read "w 9 blue & :ite ?read1 suitable = bord] ( ,fair ,l95 ,clo? ,! dott$ l9es at ,e %[ h[ ! b>s are pull$ ap>t on ! "o h& & drawn toge!r on ! o!r by ! d>n+ =m+ ! patt]n1 ! b>s ?us connect+ ! :ole ( ! m$allions ?r\gh\t ! "w4 ,f %[s "o ( ! latt] be+ work$ f ! c5tre4 ,x is begun by d>n+ eight b>s regul>ly backw>ds & =w>ds ab\t f\r times4 ,!n ! two middle b>s are left & "o side is d>n$ ov] only ?ree b>s1 to f9i% ! fir/ #8/ep1' & to leave ! little w9d[-l op5+1 ,h1 !n ov] two b>s only to f9i% ! #8w9d[1' & beg9 ! second /ep4 ,at ,j x goes "r across six b>s once1 :5 return+ to ! c5tre x goes d[n ! two t 7 left till x arrives ne> ,f aga91 & ! o!r side is begun 9 /eps l ! fir/4 ,at ,j x goes "r across six aga9 & keeps on till ! second /ep is f9i%$1 :i* is :]e ! ne$le has got to 9 ! sket*4 ,! second /ep is ab\t half ! dep? ( ! fir/4 ,! ?ird is ! same dep? z ! second1 b is d>n$ ov] f\r b>s4 ,?is leaves two to be f9i%$ la/1 & ^! two are d>n$ ov] till ! undrawn /rip ( l95 is rea*$ & ! half m$allion is f9i%$4 ,! o!r half is exactly ! same1 only rev]s$4 ,! ?read %\ld be work$ fairly tight ?r\gh\t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iv4--,details ( ,fig4 ,,iii1 %[+ h[ to "w x ,! hem at ! bottom %\ld be f9i%$ (f ) a fr+e4 ,if col\rs are us$ 9 ! "w !y %\ld appe> aga9 9 ! fr+e1 b if x is all :ite a good knott$ "o ( f9e :ite l95 ?read %\ld be sewn on by its upp] edge 7see ,illu/ration ,,ii471 tak+ c>e n to /ret* x at all1 b r to ease x on4 ,x %\ld hang q free1 n on ! /uff1 z x is 9 ! case ( frontals1 c4 ,i may "h rem>k t x is a mi/ake to suppose t !re is any difficulty 9 wa%+ fr+es4 ,if !y are n too deep 9 ! #8fall1' & are well made ( good l95 ?read1 !y only ne$ to be well %ak5 two or ?ree times :5 wet & :ile dry+1 to make !m hang p]fectly /raight & well4 ,good ?read lace#aa may be us$ in/ead ( fr+e4 ,lace is also sometimes tack$ along ! front to hang ov] ! sup]-frontal1 b z x requires to be tak5 (f e "t ! clo? is wa%$ x is n practicable unless "s c>eful lady is responsible = its welf>e1 or unless "s su* lace z ,iri% cro*et be us$1 :i* w /& wa%+4 ,i believe ! col\r$ embroid]y describ$ above us$ to be tack$ on to ! ends ( ! fair l95 9 ?is way l app>els1 & remov$ = ! m frequ5t wa%+ ( ! clo? itself2 9 "s mod]n *ur*es :]e !re are pl5ty ( p]sons able & will+ to att5d to ^! ?+s !y are /ill us$1 & q appropriately2 b = a small village or v poor t[n *ur* x seems m suitable to h good /rong l951 simple embroid]ies 7ei!r 9 "o col\r or :ite71 & a /\t l95 fr+e to mat*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,v4--,design = ,cut-l95 "w ,cut-l95 too may be us$ ei!r = an op5-"w bord] or in/ead ( lace or fr+e = ! edge4 ,if ev5ly & firmly work$1 ei!r 9 buttonhole or ov]-sew+1 x w la/ z long z ! l95 itself4 ,9 old5 times ! ,,corporal or corporax-clo? 0 (t5 made l>ge en\gh to cov] ! surface ( ! alt>1 to fold ov] ! *alice1 or a #8,pair ( ,corporals' 7 us$4 ,x seems to be m g5]al n[ to h "o corporal ab\t tw5ty-f\r in*es squ>e1 & "o small] & ?9n]--a #8,*alice-veil1' us$ 9 conjunction ) a /iff5$ squ>e ( l95 call$ ! pall2 :i* toge!r take ! place ( ! second corporal4 ,! corporal may be work$ ) five crosses l ! alt> clo?1 only small]1 or ) "o1 j above ! hem1 9 ! c5tre ( "o ( ! sides2 or x may h a bord] embroid]$ all r\nd x4 ,!re are "s 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum done 9 cross-/it* v simil> to ! designs ,i h sugge/$ = ,fair ,l95 ,clo?s1 & "o1 x may be not$1 ) ! bord] work$ exactly ! same on bo? sides 7inside & out71 s t :5 turn$ ov] 9 actual use !re w\ld be no #8wrong side' to %[4 ,! m delicate #8,*alice-veil' may be embroid]$ all ov]1 s long z ! decoration does n int]f]e ) ! s(tness ( ! l951 :i* is its *ief beauty4 ,if x is int5d$ to be fold$ :5 9 use x %\ld n be s s(t1 & ! design might take up j "o-n9? ( ! surface--"o-?ird ( ! wid? by "o-?ird ( ! l5g?1 s t :5 fold$ 9 ?ree ea* way ! ornam5tation may fill ! c5tral squ>e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,vi4--,l95 ,pall ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,vii4--,design = c5tre ( ,*alice-veil ,if x is to hang ov] z a veil ! same rule applies to x z to ! silk *alice-veil1 namely1 t z "o-?ird ( x w hang d[n all r\nd :5 9 use1 ! design mu/ take acc\nt ( ^! conditions4 ,! corn]s or ! sides may be ! c5tre ( decoration1 :i* %\ld 9 ?is case gr[ upw>d1 or a bord] may run all r\nd4 ,x is frequ5tly edg$ ) lace ( ! f9e/ & ri*e/ description4 ,! ,,pall1 :i* is us$ ) ! s(t f9e *alice-veil1 is a /iff squ>e ( l95 f #d to #f in*es 9 size1 accord+ to ! *alice x is to cov]4 ,x may be embroid]$ all ov]1 or ) a cross1 or ! sacr$ monogram1 or a symbol ( ! ,passion 9 ! c5tre4 ,"s /iff5 x ) a squ>e ( c>dbo>d cov]$ ) l951 o!rs ) a d\ble fold ( ! mat]ial us$ = ! int]l9+ ( l95 coll>s4 ,! upp] squ>e1 :i* is embroid]$1 is (t5 made sep>ately2 x is 9 ?is case hemm$ 7sometimes edg$ ) a n>r[ ?read lace71 & a t9y /rap is buttonhol$ across ea* corn] to keep x 9 place4 ,o!rwise x is ov]-sewn f9ely all r\nd 9 ! same mann] z are ! bo>ds ( a burse4 ,9 e case ! /iff5+ is cov]$ on bo? sides ) f9e :ite l95 neatly sewn4 ,! orig9 ( ! ,,purificator is v obscure1 :ile ! use ( & ! necessity = x are q obvi\s4 ,purificators & lavabo t[els n[ supply ! place ( ! orig9al maniple1 c41 & 9 consequ5ce are n subject to mu* ornam5tation1 ! cross on ! purificator be+ int5d$ m to indicate its sacr$ use ?an z a decoration4 ,!re seems to be no reason :y ! lavabo t[el %\ld n h a neat bord] work$ j above ! hem or fr+e4 ,purificators %\ld be made ( ! s(te/ ( l951 pla9 or diap]$1 ab\t #ab in*es squ>e1 or #i #ab4 ,! edges may be fr+$ by draw+ out ?reads all r\nd to ! dep? ( ab\t half an in*1 or !y may be neatly sewn ) a v n>r[ pla9 hem4 ,a small cross 9 ! c5tre or at "o ( ! corn]s is all t is necess>y 9 ! way ( embroid]y4 ,! ,,cr$5ce ,,clo? %\ld be made to fit ! table4 ,x may hang d[n a little on ea* side l ! alt> clo?1 & h a bord] some:at simil> only n>r[]1 & ei!r a fr+e or lace to mat* 9 /yle4 ,9 "s *ur*es ! old cu/om is reta9$ ( hang+ a #8,,h\sel+-,,clo?'#ab ov] ! alt>-rails4 ,^! rails 7 fir/ requir$ 9 ,engl& ab\t ! beg9n+ ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 accord+ to ,canon #g ( #afdj1 to pres]ve ! communion-table f ,puritan pr(anations4 ,previ\sly to ?is ! ,h\sel+-clo? 7a long :ite silk5 or l95 t[el7 0 held be=e ! communicants z !y knelt at ! alt>4 ,x is a rev]5t & seemly cu/om1 int5d$ to prev5t ! fall ( any p>ticle ( ! ,bless$ ,sacram5t dur+ ! communion ( ! p4 ,! decoration ( x may be treat$ 9 ! same /yle z t ( ! alt>- & cr$5ce-clo?s4 ,hum]al veils1 (f]tory veils1 & sud>ies ( v>i\s k9ds h be5 9 m or less con/ant use to pres]ve ! books1 sacr$ vessels1 ve/m5ts1 c41 f contact ) ! b>e h&s ( ! assi/ants at ! alt>4 ,x is to ?is rev]5t c>e & scrupul\s cleanl9ess t we owe ! cons]vation ( s _m ( ! preci\s relics ( ! pa/ t h come d[n to our own "t1 :i* ) r\gh & c>eless h&l+ w\ld h p]i%$ long ago4 ,a small neat cu%ion ( velvet or "s o!r s(t textile1 ab\t #i by #c in*es 9 size1 aft] ! old fa%ion1 w\ld be mu* bett] = ! alt>-book to re/ ^u ?an ! h>d wood5 or brass desks we s (t5 see n[adays4 ,:]ev] ^! latt] are us$ a s(t clo? ( "s k9d %\ld at lea/ prev5t _! contact ) valuable books1 especially if ! cov]s are embroid]$4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,on ,,! ,,albe1 ,,surplice1 ,,etc4 ,!re are v>i\s op9ions among ! le>n$ bo? z to ! orig9 & l9e ( desc5t 7s to speak7 ( all ! di/9ctive ve/m5ts worn by ! m9i/]s ( ! ,*ur* at ! pres5t day4 ,! albe & surplice are n among ! lea/ int]e/+ f an hi/orical po9t ( view2 h[ev]1 x is n our purpose to discuss x "h1 & :atev] !ory we may pref]--t :i* d]ives !m f a ,levitical ance/ry1 or f ! ,ea/]n g>m5ts ( common use 9 ! "t ( ,our ,"l1 or f ! ,grco-,roman 9 ! e>ly c5turies ( our era1 ! fact rema9s t f ! v e>lie/ times ( :i* we h any record ( su* ?+s :ite l95 raim5t#ac 0 a noticeable feature 9 ! dress ( ! ,*ri/ian m9i/]1 :e!r prie/1 deacon1 or s]v]4 ,! albe & ! surplice 7 possibly bo? d]iv$ f "o orig9al g>m5t4 ,_! *ief *>act]i/ics 7 t !y 7 long1 full1 & made ) sleeves2 moreov] t !y 7 usually ( :ite l951 & ei!r q pla9 or ornam5t$ 9 "s simple & appropriate mann] by a bord] t c\ld be wa%$ ) ! g>m5t1 or 79 ! case ( ! albe f ! ?irte5? c5tury7 by app>els :i* 7 easily remov$ )\t injur+ x4 ,! ,,albe has reta9$ its primitive "* 9 all ^! respects4 ,! long fl[+ g>m5t is conf9$ at ! wai/1 = conv5i5ce 9 m9i/ration1 by a girdle or b&1 :i* may consi/ simply ( a pla9 l95 cord #d y>ds long1 f9i%$ at ! ends ) tassels ( ! same2 or x may be a b& f #a to #c in*es wide1 ri*ly embroid]$ 9 silk & gold4 ,:5 ?is is ! case x %\ld be fa/5$ by /r+s sewn to ! l9+1 or by hooks & eyes1 or a clasp1 s t x may n become creas$ & spoil$ by frequ5t ty+4 ,a b& is p]haps bett] = keep+ ! /ole 9 place z be+ less liable to r\gh5 & damage ! silk4 ,x seems to h be5 an old ,engli% cu/om to use a b&1 judg+ by ! old inv5tories1 c41#ad b x is n s g5]al 9 ^! days z ! cord1 & ! symbolism is lo/ unless ! b& is kept q n>r[4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,i4--,albe1 ) ,girdle1 ,amice1 & ,/ole ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,ii4--,anci5t ,albe 7,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum7 ,! diagram 7,illu/ration ,,ii47 %[s ! %ape & dim5sions ( a v old albe n[ 9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum1 ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,! l95 x is made ( is #bb in*es wide1 & ! seams are jo9$ d[n ! middle ( ! front & back by means ( an ins]tion1 work$ 9 buttonhole-/it* ) :ite l95 ?read1 r m ?an2 in* wide4 ,! seams at ! %\ld]s are treat$ 9 ! same way ) ins]tion in* wide1 into :i* is work$ an inscription 9 r$ ?read2 & !re is a small r$ cross on ea* ( ! gussets let 9 at ! wai/ to conta9 ! ga!rs1 :i* are set v close toge!r1 to provide ! necess>y fulness = ! skirt4 ,! app>els are made ( f\rte5? c5tury brocade4 ,mod]n albes are usually ei!r ga!r$ into a neck-b& some:at l a surplice 7see ,illu/ration ,,iii471 & s are full all ! way d[n1 or !y may be wid5$ gradually f ! %\ld]4 ,! measurem5ts are v simil> 9 ea* case1 & take f #g to #i y>ds ( l951 a y>d wide4 ,9 ! ga!r$ patt]n 7:i* is mu* h&som] ?an ! pla9 "o7 !re are no cut seams except = ! sleeves2 ! selv$ges %\ld be ov]-sewn toge!r ) f9e cotton v closely1 & !n ! seams w n %[ at all4 ,^? on ! sleeve %\ld be f9ely /it*$ & ! raw edge turn$ 9 & #8fell$'--i4e4 hemm$--d[n on ! inside4 ,! neck & %\ld] b&s %\ld be /it*$ ) f9e back-/it*+ on ! outside4 ,!y may be decorat$ ) any fancy /it* z well1 or a n>r[ bord] may be embroid]$4 ,! hem r\nd ! bottom %\ld be f #a to #c in*es deep4 ,a bord] ( embroid]y may be work$ all r\nd1 above ! hem4 ,! cu/om ( work+ a lace ins]tion 9 ! middle ( a seam1 :i* us$ to be common to ! bett] sort ( h\sehold l95 z well z t = ! ,*ur*1 has fall5 into disuse ( late ye>s1 9 consequ5ce ( our l95 be+ wov5 s mu* wid] ?an x us$ to be4 ,b x might /ill be us$ 9 ! front & back ( ! pla9 albe1 & x may be well to describe ! me?od ( work+ x1 z x is n at all difficult to d1 nor s t$i\s z x might appe> at fir/ glance4 ,& irrespective ( ! wid? ( l951 !re are occasions :5 ! l5g? may require addition 7su*1 = in/ance1 z ! enl>gem5t ( a fair l95 clo? = an alt>74 ,x is a recognis$ law ( art t ,beauty %\ld be call$ =? by ,necessity2 & ! hid+1 cov]+1 or ornam5t+ a seam 0 p]haps ! v fir/ inc5tive to embroid]y6 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iii4--,mod]n ,albe ,if x is a cut edge :i* is to be jo9$ to ano!r 9 ?is mann]1 ea* piece ( /uff is hemm$ sep>ately4 ,! "w is begun ^u "o hem z a f\ndation1 & :5 f9i%$ is sewn closely on to ! o!r4 ,= ! fir/ r[ 99 make two t9y buttonhole /it*es into ! edge ( ! hem 7or ( ! selv$ge if !re is no hem74 ,!n leave a small space1 equal to ! room tak5 up by ! two buttonhole /it*es2 !n two m /it*es1 !n leave a space ( ab\t in*1 c>ry+ ! cotton /raight along--repeat f 99 till ! fir/ r[ is done1 all along ! edge4 ,turn ! "w ov] to ! o!r side1 or fa/5 (f ?read & beg9 at ! same end z at fir/3 by turn+ x ov] ! same effect is atta9$--viz4 work+ f left to "r = ea* r[1 :i* keeps ! "w ev54 ,= ! second r[ ! ?reads :i* /ret* across ! spaces ( in* are cov]$ ) f9e buttonhol+1 & two /it*es are put into ea* ( ! t9y spaces left = !m 9 ! fir/ r[4 ,:5 ! end ( ! second r[ is rea*$ ! "w %\ld be turn$ ov]1 z be=e1 & ! ?ird r[ done exactly ! same z ! fir/1 except t ! pairs ( /it*es are work$ into ! little spaces caus$ by go+ f ! b> to ! middle ( ! pairs ( /it*es in/ead ( into ! /uff3 c on ,illu/ration ,,iv4 %[s ?is v mu* enl>g$2 a & b are ! same size z ! "w on ! old albe4 ,aft] ! fir/ r[1 :i* is work$ into ! l951 x is bett] to use a blunt ne$le4 ,! button-hole-/it*es %\ld be drawn up tightly ov] ! ?read ?r\gh\t ! "w2 9 ! illu/ration ( ! detail !y are n drawn tightly en\gh = ! real "w4 ,f ?ree to five b>s are en\gh = ?is patt]n4 ,a great numb] ( diff]5t ones c be arrang$ ) a little +5uity1 v>iation be+ br\ght ab\t by diff]+ ! proportions ( buttonhole #8fill+1' b>s & spaces4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,iv ,! sleeve ( ! albe is1 !oretically1 tight fitt+1 b = conv5i5ce 9 we>+ x ov] o!r clo?+1 & to get x easily ov] ! h&1 x is g5]ally made f #ab to #ad in*es 9 circumf]5ce at ! wri/4 ,9 old pictures "o (t5 sees x fitt+ q closely1 9 :i* case x is provid$ ) buttons & buttonholes to fa/5 ! extra op5+1 :i* has to be made at ! "u seam4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,v4--,amice ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury ,! ,,amice is ei!r a squ>e or rectangul> piece ( f9e l95 f #bi to #cf in*es 9 l5g?1 worn z a neck-clo? ) ! albe & cov]+ ! edge ( ! *asuble1 :]e x w\ld o!rwise come 9 contact ) ! neck ( ! we>]4 ,x is hemm$ ) a n>r[ hem all r\nd & has two /r+s #gd in*es long1 fa/5$ at ! upp] corn]s to keep x 9 place4 ,x sometimes has a l>ge cross embroid]$ ^u x1 z 9 ?is example :i* is tak5 f t ( ,/4 ,?omas ,becket1 & has an app>el ( gold embroid]y atta*$ to ! upp] edge4 ,^! app>els 7 almo/ univ]sal f ! ?irte5? to ! sixte5? c5tury1 & are reta9$ 9 ! ,engli% use4 ,x is lightly tack$ on to ! edge ( ! amice1 s t :5 x is turn$ back ov] ! *asuble x lies ev5ly r\nd l a coll>4 ,x may be made to mat* ! col\r ( ! ve/m5t x is worn )1 or "o ri*ly embroid]$ ) gold or made ( gold tissue1 may be worn ) any ( !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,vi4--,engli% ,*oir ,surplice 7,a4,d4 #acja7 ,! ,,surplice1 :i* f v e>ly times seems to h =m$ "p ( ! *oir habit ( cl]gy & o!r m9i/]s alike1 is v simil> to ! albe1 except t1 be+ an out] in/ead ( an "u ve/m5t1 ! sleeves are long & full1 & also 9 consequ5ce ( be+ worn ov] a cassock1 an albe1 or a #8pellice'#ae x has become some:at %ort] 9 ! skirt2 b !re are1 f ! "t ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor onw>d1 num]\s canons1 laws1 & directions always ord]+ ! surplice to be long en\gh to rea* d[n to ! heels4 ,! albe1 surplice1 & ro*et are v mu* alike2 9 ! old docum5ts x is (t5 difficult to det]m9e :i* ( ! ?ree is meant1 !re be+ s _m names = ! same ?+1 & bo? names & uses almo/ int]*angeable4 ,b 9 ! pres5t day we conf9e ! t]m albe to ! "o ) some:at tight-fitt+ sleeves1 surplice to ! "o ) long fl[+ sleeves1 & ro*et to ! "o )\t any1 or ) full ones ga!r$ into a b& at ! wri/4 ,albes 7 at "o "t occasionally made ( silk1 & sometimes 7 ev5 col\r$1#af b ,i d n ?9k surplices ev] 71 nei!r h !y ev] be5 mu* ornam5t$4 ,smock+ at ! ga!rs or an embroid]$ neck-b& seems to h be5 ! only decoration at all common4 ,! ro*et 0 & /ill is sometimes embroid]$ all r\nd j above ! hem4 ,! accompany+ diagram 7,illu/ration ,,viii47 %[s h[ to cut a surplice l ! "o repres5t$ at ,illu/ration ,,vii4 ,! dim5sions are v simil> to ^? giv5 by ,dr4 ,rock1 except t 8 is full] 9 ! skirt4 ,if ?is is desir$ x c be done )\t any difficulty by m]ely add+ ano!r wid? ( l95 7plac+ ! c5tre on ! diagram #ah in*es fur!r to ! "r1 & ?us us+ two full wid?s in/ead ( "o74 ,x is bett] 9 ?is case to make ! coll>-b& deep]1 z x is difficult to get s _m ga!rs into ! #bi in*es ( circumf]5ce giv5 "h4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,vii4--,mod]n ,surplice ,all ! selv$ge seams %\ld be #8:ipp$1' #8seam$1' or #8ov]-sewn'--?ree names = "o & ! same process4 ,! diagonal seams or any ) cut edges mu/ be #8run & fell$4' ,?is patt]n takes #f y>ds ( l951 a y>d wide2 ,dr4 ,rock's w\ld take #b y>ds m4 ,8 is m suitable = smock+2 & :]e a deep coll>-b& is us$ x may be embroid]$1 pref]ably 9 :ite1 ?\gh "s ( ! old ones 7 done 9 r$4 ,a prie/'s surplice %\ld measure at lea/ #d y>ds r\nd ! bottom2 ^? = *oir m5 & boys are n usually s wide4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 ,,viii ,,conclusion ,on br++ ?is little book to an end ! au?or feels sadly aw>e ( its _m defici5cies4 ,"t does n all[ = ei!r v /rict revision or mu* elaboration ( ! pap]s :i* =m$ ! f\ndation ( x4 ,!re are _m po9ts ( int]e/ connect$ ) ! subject ( ,*ur* ne$lework :i* h be5 purposely t\*$ ^u z briefly z possible1 t ! /ud5t may n be oblig$ to wade ?r\gh a quantity ( extrane\s matt] 9 ord] to f9d ! practical in=mation requir$4 ,!re are o!rs omitt$ = want ( "t & space 7su*1 = in/ance1 z illu/ration & explanation ( ! v>i\s symbols1 c41 us$ 9 ,*ur* embroid]y f ! e>lie/ times to ! pres5t day3 special *>act]i/ics ( diff]5t /yles1 p]iods1 & c\ntries1 c4 c47 ,b !re is "o po9t ,i f9d ,i h n m5tion$ 9 its prop] place 7,*apt] ,,vii71 :i* ,i am unwill+ to pass ov] altoge!r because x involves a matt] ( pr9ciple4 ,x is conc]n+ ! practice ( pa9t+ ! faces in/ead ( work+ !m 9 figure-embroid]y4 ,x seems to me no m legitimate ?an x w\ld be actually to embroid] ! robes ( a pa9t$ portrait6 ,if figure-embroid]y is beyond ! ability ( any individual work]1 let h] get someone else to d ! faces :ile %e cont5ts h]self ) ! robes & backgr\nd1 or apply h] p[]s to o!r "w4 ,!re is pl5ty ( beautiful embroid]y to be done )\t employ+ figure-"w at all4 ,i h se5 faces pa9t$ into embroid]y s exactly simulat+ ne$lework t x is almo/ impossible to tell ! diff]5ce4 ,?is obviates ! objectionable cla%+ ( ! two di/9ct arts z f> z appe>ance goes2 b x seems to me morally worse1 inasmu* z x is an int5tional deception4 ,"o bran* ( art does n ne$ to imitate ano!r4 ,ea* %\ld seek p]fection 9 its own special way1 & s9c]ity is "o great ess5tial 9 all4 ,?is br+s me to my p>t+ ^w4 ,be true & y\r "w w be beautiful4 ,let ev]y?+ t is done = ! ,*ur* be done = ! ,glory ( ,god1 & !re w be no trick]y possible1 no attempt to make any?+ appe> bett] ?an x is4 ,! simple/ "w done 9 hone/ mat]ials is m ess5tially lovely ?an ! mo/ elaborate ( #8%oddy4' #8,:atsoev] ?+s are true1 ,:atsoev] ?+s are hone/1 ,:atsoev] ?+s are pure1 ,:atsoev] ?+s are lovely1 ,:atsoev] ?+s are ( good report1 ,if !re be any virtue & if !re be any praise ?9k on ^! ?+s4' ,,footnotes #a ,x is a mi/ake to be ov]-timid 9 attack+ floss-silk4 ,x requires a light b firm h&1 & %\ld be pull$ fairly tight to get x to lie smoo?ly--a sort ( little second>y j]k aft] draw+ ! ne$le ?r\gh to ! back4 #b ,l9e & ,=m1 by ,walt] ,crane1 i4 #a4 #c ,?is is ! smalle/ quantity t c be made satisfactorily1 twice ?is quantity is easi] to manage4 ,a mod]ately heap$ tablespoonful is ab\t equal to #a oz41 & a small teaspoonful to #b dr4 ,ord9>y wat] filt]$ in/ead ( di/ill$ w d if x is s(t4 #d ,?is me?od1 call$ a'or nu1 ! ,flor5t9es seem to h got f ,fl&]s1 :]e x _h long be5 9 use4 #e ,vas>i says3 #8,! figures are no less admirably execut$ ) ! ne$le ?an drawn by ,pollaiuolo ) ! p5cil1 & ?us we are l>gely indebt$ to "o ma/] = 8 design1 & to ! o!r = 8 pati5ce4' #f ,art 9 ,ne$lework1 p4 #acj4 #g ,to ! pres5t day our sov]eigns (f] ^u ! alt> at _! coronation a #8,pall ( ,silk' 9 accordance ) old cu/om4 #h ,! "n or>ium to d5ote a /ole is /ill us$ 9 ! ,ea/]n ,*ur* = ! deacon's /ole 771 al?\gh x has pass$ out ( use 9 ! ,we/]n *ur* altoge!r1 ,i believe4 #i ,!re is a beautiful col\r$ reproduction ( x 9 ! #8,art ,work]'s ,qu>t]ly1' ,janu>y #aijf4 #aj #8,9 ! fam\s tripty* ( ! ,sev5 ,sacram5ts1 by ,van d] ,weyde1 n[ 9 ! ,antw]p ,museum1 ! c5tral comp>tm5t %[s a missal ^u ! alt> at ,mass ) a sud>iolum hang+ f x4 ,x w\ld seem by no means impossible t ! /r+ to :i* ?is napk9 0 atta*$ 0 us$ z a book-m>k]4 ,! ,bi%op's maniple /ill s]ves ! same purpose 9 ! book ( ! ,gospels at ! beg9n+ ( ,mass4'--,rev4 ,h4 ,?ur/on1 ,s4,j41 #8,ve/m5ts ( ,l[ ,mass1' #8,! ,mon?1' ,octob] #ahih4 #aa ,app5dix ,c4 #ab ,h[sel--,husel ,saxon "n = ! ,eu*>i/4 #ac #8,:ite %9+ ve/m5t ( f9e l95 common to all cl]gy4'--,c\ncil ( ,n>bonne ,a4,d4 #ehj4 #ad ,at ,s>um 9 #abbb !re 7 n9e girdles ( silk & twelve o!rs m5tion$ 9 ! ,inv5tory4 ,!re 0 "o ( gold tissue f\nd ^u ! body ( ,/4 ,cu?b]t at ,durham4 #ae ,h5ce ! d]ivation1 to :i* "s writ]s ref] z evid5ce ( its be+ at "o "t an "u g>m5t1 po9ts exactly ! o!r way1 ! pellice be+ a long lambsk9 dress worn by ! ,engli% cl]gy f v e>ly times4 ,see ,mat!w ,p>is1 ,vit4 ,abb41 p4 #ec4 #af ,p]haps ! r$ & blue cassocks sometimes to be se5 n[adays may ju/ify _! exi/5ce by ! example ( ^! col\r$ albes frequ5tly m5tion$ 9 old docum5ts & depict$ 9 illum9at$ ,,mss4 ,,app5dices ,,app5dix ,a ,,table ,,( ,,liturgical ,,col\rs ,,accord+ ,,to ,,! ,,anci5t ,,use ,,( ,,five ,,engli% ,,dioceses ,,or ,,conv5tual ,,*ur*es ,,comp>$ ,,) ,,t ,,( ,,rome ,season ,we/m9/],s>um ,exet] ,wells ,li*field ,rome ,adv5t ,:ite ,unkn[n ,violet ,m$ius ,black ,violet 78 ,:ite7 78 ,blue7 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,*ri/mas ,:ite ,mix$ ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite col\rs ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,! ,epiphany,:ite ,mix$ ,:ite ,:ite ,r$ ,:ite col\rs ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,epiphany ,:ite 7to ,r$ ,gre5 ,r$ ,at w ,gre5 7,octave7 to ,c&lemas7 ( ,septuagesima ,sacri/ ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,septuagesima,r$di% ,r$ ,violet ,unkn[n -- ,violet to ,l5t 7subrubeus7 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,l5t1 fir/ ,black 79 ,unkn[n ,violet -- ,black ,violet f\r weeks practice1 79 ,:ite7 practice1 ,:ite7 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,l5t1 la/ ,r$ ,r$ ,violet ,r$ ,r$ ,violet two weeks or ,passion-tide ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,ea/]1 f,r$ ,:ite or ,:ite ,r$1 ,l[ ,:ite ,:ite ,fir/ ,mix$ ,sunday ,ev5song1 on col\rs ,:ite ,ea/] ,eve1 to ,l[ ,sunday ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,l[ ,sunday ,r$ ,:ite ,:ite ,r$ ,:ite ,:ite to ,asc5sion ,day ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,asc5sion ,:ite ,:ite or -- ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ,day to ,mix$ ,:it ,sunday col\rs ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,:it ,sunday ,r$ 7or ,:ite or ,r$ ,r$ ,:ite ,r$ ,saffron7 ,mix$ ,yell[ col\rs 7or ,gre57 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,tr9ity ,r$ ,mix$ ,if ,r$ ,:ite ,:ite ,sunday col\rs h&some1 ,gre51 o!rwise ,:ite ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,corpus -- -- ,r$ & ,r$ -- ,:ite ,*ri/i & ,:ite ,octave ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,sundays ,r$ ,r$ ,gre5 ,r$ ,at w ,gre5 aft] ( ,tr9ity ,sacri/ ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,week days -- ,unkn[n -- -- -- ,gre5 aft] ,tr9ity1 n be+ ,sa9ts ,days ,,sa9ts ,,days ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,/4 ,paul -- ,r$ ,r$ or ,r$ ,r$ ,:ite 7,janu>y #be7 ,blue ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,evangeli/s ,r$ ,r$ ,r$ ,r$ -- ,r$ ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,apo/les ,r$ ,r$ ,r$ ,r$ ,r$ ,r$ ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,m>tyrs ,r$ ,r$ ,r$ ,r$ ,r$ ,r$ ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,virg9s ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,confessors ,yell[ ,yell[ -- ,blue & ,v>ius ,:ite 7or ,gre5 7or ,gre5 & ,blue7 ,saffron7 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,/4 ,john ,:ite ,:ite -- ,indius ,v>ius ,:ite ,bapti/ 78 ,blue7 7,june #bd7 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,all ,sa9ts -- ,unkn[n ,:ite1 ,:ite &,v>ius ,:ite ,r$1 & ,r$ all col\rs ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,/4 ,mi*ael ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite &,:ite ,:ite & or ,blue ,indius ,all ,angels 78 ,blue7 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,/4 ,john ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite -- ,:ite ,:ite ,evangeli/ ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,holy ,violet ,unkn[n -- ,r$ -- ,violet ,innoc5ts ,fe/ivals (,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ,:ite ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y ,d$ication -- ,:ite or ,all ,blue & -- ,:ite ( ,*ur*es ,mix$ col\rs ,:ite col\rs ,burial ,black ,black ,black ,black ,black ,black ,:]ev] ,black 0 ord]$1 ,violet1 ,purple1 ,d>k ,blue1 & ,a%-col\r1 or ,grey1 seem to h be5 consid]$ equival5t4 ,s ,gre5 also replac$ ,yell[4 ,,app5dix ,b ,a ,,few ,,( ,,! ,,symbols ,,& ,,emblems ,,mo/ ,,frequ5tly ,,us$ ,,9 ,,ecclesia/ical ,,art ,i4 ,! ,,fi%4--,! fir/1 9 po9t ( date1 z a di/9ctly ,*ri/ian ,symbol 7#a7 ( ,baptism1 7#b7 ( ! ,"n ( ,,our ,,"l1 ! lett]s ,9 ,greek =m+ an anagram ( ! ,"n ,,jesus4 ,,ii4 ,! ,,cross4--,! univ]sal emblem ( ,*ri/ianity1 %[+ ! l5g?1 bread?1 dep?1 & height ( ! ,love ( ,,god 9 ,*ri/4 ,z decoration1 ! ,lat9 =m %\ld only be us$ = ,p5it5tial occasions1 be+ ! symbol ( suff]+ & ( ! ,passion4 ,! ,greek or equilat]al1 ! f\ndation ( all ! m decorative ones1 is suitable = all times & seasons except ,*ri/mas & ,epiphany4 ,! ,gammadion1 ,fylfot1 ,sw>/ika1 or 79 h]aldry7 ! ,cross ,pot5t rebat$--a prehi/oric cross f\nd all ov] ! _w--is suitable = all seasons1 & 0 ! "o mo/ g5]ally us$ 9 anci5t ,*ur* embroid]y4 ,,iii4 ,! ,,glory1 ,,nimbus & ,,aureole1 9 ! ,ea/1 an attribute ( p[]2 9 ! ,we/1 ( ,div9ity or ( consecration4 ,,iv4 ,! ,,lamb4--,an e>ly symbol ( ,*ri/ z ! ,lamb ( ,,god1 ! sacrifice = s94 ,) ! /&>d #8,agnus ,dei1' signifies ! ,ris5 ,,"l4 ,z an attribute 7#a7 ( ,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/1 9 ref]5ce to 8 words #8,behold1' c42 7#b7 ( ,/4 ,agnes ,innoc5ce & ,purity1 & = h] "n4 ,v4 ,! ,,pelican #89 h] piety1' a symbol 7#a7 ( ,*ri/ giv+ ,life by ,8 suff]+s2 7#b7 ( ! ,bless$ ,sacram5t4 ,,vi4 ,! ,,lion ,/r5g?1 ,=titude1 ,solitude1 z an attribute ( ,m>tyrs1 signifies ! mode ( _! dea?2 ( ,/4 ,m>k z ,evangeli/1 because he depicts ,*ri/ z ! #8,lion ( ! tribe ( ,judah4' ,,vii4 ,! ,,h>t or ,,h9d ,solitude1 ,purity1 ,religi\s ,aspiration1 #8,l z ! ,h>t desire?1' c43 ,ps4 #db4 ,,viii4 ,! ,,cr[n ,symbol ( ,victory4 ,female sa9ts g5]ally depict$ we>+ ! cr[n1 male sa9ts hold x 9 _! h&s or h x at _! feet1 or angels be> x above4 ,symbol ( ,m>tyrdom1 attribute ( ,royalty4 ,,ix4 ,! ,,palm ,symbol also ( ,victory1 especially t ( ,m>tyrdom4 ,sa9ts & angels be> !m 9 _! h&s 7nev] on ! gr\nd or at _! feet74 ,x4 ,! ,,olive ,peace2 attribute ( ! ,angels ( ! ,nativity--,/4 ,gabriel1 ,/4 ,agnes1 c4 ,,xi4 ,! ,,dove is ! symbol ( ! ,holy ,gho/4 ,x is %[n at ! ,annunciation1 ,baptism1 & ov] ! heads ( sa9ts consid]$ specially inspir$2 7#b7 emblem ( ! ,s\l4 ,,xii4 ,! ,,lily ,purity1 especial attribute ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 ,m>y1 ,/4 ,gabriel1 ,/4 ,joseph1 ,/4 ,francis4 ,,xiii4 ,! ,,book signifies ! ,gospel or an ,evangeli/2 or 9 ! h&s ( o!r sa9ts1 le>n+ & writ+s4 ,,xiv4 ,a ,,*ur* 9 ! h&s ( a sa9t indicates t he 7or %e7 0 ! f\nd]2 an attribute ( ,/4 ,j]ome z a ,primitive ,fa!r4 ,,xv4 ,a ,,%ip or ,,ark ,! ,holy ,ca?olic ,*ur*4 ,,xvi4 ,an ,,an*or ,hope4 ,,xvii4 ,a ,,lamp1 ,,lant]n or ,,tap] ,piety or ,wisdom4 ,,xviii4 ,! ,,*alice1 ) ,ho/1 symbol ( ! ,holy ,eu*>i/2 also ,fai?4 ,! ,*alice1 ) ,s]p5t1 attribute ( ,/4 ,john1 9 ref]5ce to tradition ( poison$ ,*alice4 ,,xix4 ,! ,,f\r ,,evangeli/s 71 9 v e>ly times1 symbolis$ by f\r scrolls on ! arms ( an equilat]al cross4 ,lat] 7f ,second to ,fif? ,c5tury7 by f\r riv]s1 & f ! ,fif? ,c5tury onw>ds by ! f\r ,liv+ ,creatures4 ,,/4 ,,mat!w ! w+$ man1 9 ref]5ce to 8 gospel %[+ ! ,humanity ( ,*ri/4 ,,/4 ,,m>k ! ,lion1 8 gospel be+ especially = ! ,jews4 ,,/4 ,,luke ! ,ox1 %[+ ! sacrificial aspect4 ,,/4 ,,john ! ,eagle1 #8tak+ ! highe/ flight & portray+ ! ,div9ity' ( our ,,"l4 ,,xx4 ,! ,,twelve ,,apo/les4 ,! e>lie/ repres5tations are purely emblematical--twelve %eep 9 a r[ 7six on ea* side7 ) ! #8,agnus ,dei' 9 ! middle4 ,! next twelve m51 all exactly alike1 c>ry+ a %eep1 ) our ,,"l z ! ,good ,%eph]d l>g] ?an ! o!rs4 ,aft]w>ds ! attributes ( ! ,twelve ,apo/les became z foll[s3-- ,/4 ,pet]1 ) keys or a fi%4 ,/4 ,paul1 ) ! sword4 ,/4 ,&rew1 ) diagonal cross4 ,/4 ,james 7,major71 ) pilgrim's /aff4 ,/4 ,john1 ) ! *alice4 ,/4 ,?omas1 ) build]'s rule4 ,/4 ,james 7,m9or71 ) club4 ,/4 ,philip1 ) /aff or crozi]4 ,/4 ,b>?olomew1 ) l>ge knife4 ,/4 ,mat!w1 ) purse or bag4 ,/4 ,simon1 ) saw4 ,/4 ,?addeus or ,jude1 ) halb]d4 ,/4 ,mat?ias1 ) lance4 ,,xxi4 ,a ,,circle signifies ! ,_w or ,et]nity1 or p]fection4 ,an ,,equilat]al ,,triangle 7or o!r equal ?ree-fold =m7 /&s = ! ,holy ,tr9ity4 ,a ,,squ>e or ,,quatrefoil = ! ,_w1 rul$ by ! ,cross4 ,,xxii4 ,! ,,monograms ,,ih,c or ,,ih,s1 & ,,xp,c or ,,xp,s1 are ! fir/ two & la/ lett]s ( ! ,"n ,,jesus & ! title ,*ri/ 9 ,greek 7! ,c be+ ! old] =m ( ,s74 ,!y h be5 us$ f v e>ly times1 & are among ! mo/ beautiful & sugge/ive ( ! symbols4 ,!y %\ld n be us$ indiscrim9ately1 b giv5 a due place ( hon\r1 su* z on an alt>-frontal or ! orphrey ( a *asuble or cope4 ,!y c be1 & (t5 are1 extremely decorative1 & ! ?\ghtless work] is sometimes betray$ into plac+ !m mo/ inappropriately simply because %e happ5s to possess a good draw+ ( "o4 ,,app5dix ,c ,,on ,,lace ,,z ,,appli$ ,,to ,,*ur* ,,ve/m5ts1 ,,l951 ,,etc4 ,!re are "s 9 ! pres5t day :o object entirely to ! use ( lace on any article = ecclesia/ical purposes1 *iefly on ! gr\nd t x is n to be f\nd on ! old] ones4 ,x seems to me t ?is is n a suffici5t reason = disc>d+ x altoge!r 7provid+ t x is o!rwise appropriate71 = x has always be5 ! cu/om ( ! ,*ur* to welcome e new =m ( art z x arises & to consecrate to h] use ! (f]+s ( ! fai?ful4 ,lace 0 n us$ on ! old] ve/m5ts1 c41 n because !re 0 any?+ intr9sically wick$ ab\t x1 or ev5 frivol\s1 b because x 0 n yet inv5t$6 ,!re is no reliable evid5ce to prove ! exi/5ce ( lace1 z we und]/& ! t]m1 be=e ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,x seems to h be5 evolv$ gradually f #8cut l95' ?r\gh #8drawn-?read1' #8reticella1' & #8,lacis' to ne$le-po9t & pill[- or bobb9-lace1 & 0 n 9 g5]al use till ! sev5te5? c5tury1 by ! middle ( :i* x is to be se51 n m]ely z a decoration1 b ev5 z ! entire fabric ( alt>-frontals & ve/m5ts4 ,!re is no excuse1 ( c\rse1 = us+ paltry *eap lace1 z !re is no necessity = employ+ x at all4 ,9 v old *ur*es :]e ev]y?+ is en suite1 & 9 simple village *ur*es1 x w\ld n be suitable1 b ,i ?9k "s q mod]n ones may err on ! side ( be+ ov]-zeal\s = /rict ,m$ievalism4 ,at any rate1 x is well to und]/& ! reason ( ?+s1 & !n decisions w be made ) judgm5t4 ,,app5dix ,d ,,books ,,useful ,,to ,,! ,,/ud5t ,,( ,,*ur* ,,ne$lework ,n4,b4--,^? m>k$ ) 99 are mo/ly ab\t embroid]y1 & ! o!rs on design or hi/ory1 c4 99 ,al=d1 ,lady1 ,ne$lework z ,art4 99 ,b>b]1 ,m>y1 ,"s ,draw+s ( ,anci5t ,embroid]y4 99 ,bock1 ,dr41 ,ges*i*te d] ,liturgis*5 ,gewnd]4 ,braun1 ,die ,prie/li*5 ,gewnd]1 c4 ,clausse1 ,g41 ,les ,monum5ts du ,*ri/ianisme1 c4 ,*amb]s1 ,div9e ,wor%ip 9 ,engl& 9 ,?irte5? ,c5tury1 c4 ,crane1 ,walt]1 ,l9e & ,=m 7& o!rs74 99 ,dav5port1 ,engli% ,embroid]$ ,bookb9d+s4 ,day1 ,lewis1 ,sev]al ,h&books on ,design4 99 ,day1 ,lewis1 & ,m>y ,buckle1 ,art 9 ,ne$lework4 99 ,dolby1 ,ana/asia1 ,*ur* ,embroid]y4 ,dolby1 ,ana/asia1 ,*ur* ,ve/m5ts4 99 ,f>cy1 ,l\is de1 ,la ,brod]ie du ,,xiii ,sicle1 c4 ,jameson1 ,mrs41 ,sacr$ & ,leg5d>y ,art4 ,jones1 ,ow51 ,gramm> ( ,ornam5t4 ,jones1 ,ow51 ,pr9ciples1 an ,attempt to ,def9e1 c4 99 ,k5drick1 ,a4 ,f41 ,engli% ,embroid]y4 99 ,lefbure1 ,e41 ,embroid]y & ,lace4 ,legg1 ,j4 ,wickham1 ,notes on ! ,hi/ory ( ,liturgical ,col\rs4 ,m>riott1 ,ve/i>ium ,*ri/ianum4 99 ,pug91 ,gloss>y ( ,ecclesia/ical ,ornam5t4 99 ,rock1 ,dr4 ,daniel1 ,textiles1 ,introduction to4 ,rock1 ,dr4 ,daniel1 ,*ur* ( our ,fa!rs4 ,semp]1 ,d] ,/il4 99 ,t[ns5d1 ,w4 ,g4 ,p41 ,embroid]y3 or ! ,craft ( ! ,ne$le4 ,w>d1 ,hi/oric ,ornam5t4 99 ,wilton1 ,c\ntess (1 ,! ,art ( ,ne$lework4 ,,magaz9es4 99 ,! ,art ,work]s' ,qu>t]ly4 99 ,burl+ton4 99 ,home ,art ,"w4 99 ,/udio4 ,transactions ( ,/4 ,paul's ,ecclesiological ,society4 ,vols4 ,i4 & ,,ii4 especially4 ,,index ,albe1 an anci5t1 #hf app>els (1 #hf h[ to make1 #hf ins]tion on old1 #hg mod]n1 #hg-hh orig9 (1 #he symbolism (1 #ec ,almsbags1 #fg ,alt>1 keynote ( decoration1 #ci-dj l95 requir$ =1 #gi ,alt>-clo? b&1 #gi-hj fair l951 #gi ,alt>-frontal1 #ci e>ly ,engli%1 #dj to make up1 #dj-dg ,amice1 app>el (1 #hh ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury1 #hh orig9 (1 #hh symbolism (1 #ec ,app>els1 #eg ( albe1 #hf ( amice1 #hh ( dalmatic1 #bd1 #eg ,appliqu1 #ba examples (1 #bb-bd me?od ( cutt+1 #bf to prep>e1 #be uses (1 #be ,apron necess>y1 #af ,back-/it*+1 #gf ,bann]s1 #fe appliqu suitable =1 #be design =1 #fd ,basket-/it*1 #ab ,book-cov]s1 #fg ,book-m>k]s1 #fh ,books1 c>e (1 #hd ,brocade1 #c ,burse1 #eh1 #fb to make1 #eh1 #fa ,buttonhole-fill+1 #ge ,buttonhole-/it*1 #gd ,canvas-/it*1 #gg ,*a9-/it*1 #bg ,*alice-veil 7l9571 #hc 7silk71 #eh design =1 #hc specim5 (1 #fc ,*asuble1 e>ly ,engli% examples1 #ee f ,h>leian ,,mss41 #ee h[ to make1 #ef ( ,/4 ,ignatius ( ,loyola1 #ed ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury1 #eh orig9 (1 #ee ornam5t (1 #8fl[]1' #ef1 #ei symbolism (1 #ec ,*]ub1 e>ly ,engli%1 #de ,c+ulum or girdle1 #ec1 #he ,clavi1 #eg ,clo?1 l95 & wooll51 #c ( gold1 #c1 #i ,col\rs1 #b isolation (1 #ba liturgical1 #ci modification (1 #aj wa%+1 #af ,cope1 measurem5ts (1 c41 #di !1 #di to make up1 #ej ,coptic embroid]y1 #bh ,corporals1 case or burse1 #eh-fb pair (1 #hc ,c\*+ 7gold71 #i 7silk71 #ae comp>$ ) laid-"w1 #ae1 #ai ,c\nt]-*ange1 #bf ,cr$5ce clo?1 #he ,crewel-/it*1 #bj ,cross-/it*1 #gf-gg l ,lacis1 #gg ,curta9s1 pr9ciples to be obs]v$ 9 hang+1 #dj ,cut-l951 #hb ,dalmatic1 #eg app>els (1 #bd1 #eg ,clavi1 #eg diagram (1 #fa ,damask1 #c ,d>n+1 #bj1 #ba on drawn-?read1 #gi1 #hb ,decoration1 futile1 #b ( anci5t copes1 usual arrangem5t (1 #ej "s pr9ciples (1 #b ,design1 col\r-s*eme 91 #b ,design]s = ecclesia/ical art1 #b ,designs1 to transf]1 #f-g ,d'or nu1 #cd1 #cf ,draw+ necess>y = figure-"w1 #bi ,emblems1 #if ,embroid]y1 def9ition (1 #a ,engli%1 #a 9 gold1 #i-ac 9 l951 #gb-gg 9 silks1 #ae pa/e1 #be #8,eye' ( a curve1 #gd #8,fair-l95 ,clo?1' #gi ,fanon or maniple1 #ec ,fea!r-/it*1 #ge ,figure-embroid]y1 #bh-cg ,flor5t9e1 #ce f frontal ( ,/4 ,?omas 7 ,becket7 ( ,cant]bury1 ,salisbury1 #cc f ,syon cope1 #ca imitation (1 #ia ?ree me?ods (1 #cd ,fill+1 buttonhole1 #ge *a9-/it*1 #bg /it*es suitable =1 #gd-gf ,floss-silk1 embroid]y 91 #ae-bj h[ to use1 #af ,fl[]1 ornam5t call$ !1 #ei ,fl[]s1 e>ly ,engli% conv5tional1 #db-dd ,frames1 alt>-frontals /ret*$ on1 #dg embroid]y1 #d-f h[ to m\nt = embroid]y1 #f mak+ up1 #da position ( work] at1 #e ,fr5* knots1 #bg ,fr+e1 importance (1 #df wa%+ (1 #hb ,frontal1 alt>-1 #ci e>ly ,engli%1 #dj h[ to make up1 #dj-dg keynote z to col\r1 c41 #ci size1 #dj ,g>m5ts 9 embroid]y1 treatm5t (1 #bi1 #cj1 #cb1 #ia liturgical1 #ec ,girdle ( silk at ,s>um1 #he !1 use & symbolism (1 #ec ,gold1 clo? (1 #c1 #i d'or nu1 #cd1 #cf embroid]y1 #i-ac rais$ "w1 #ab /it*es useful =1 #aj1 #aa ?read1 diff]5t k9ds (1 #c-d ,h&s1 special c>e ( !1 #af ,hang+s1 v>i\s1 #dj ,h]r+-bone-/it*1 #ge close1 #gf ,swiss1 #gf ,h]se-clo? or pall1 #ff1 #fg1 #ga col\r (1 #fg ,hi/ory ( embroid]y1 #a ,h\sel+-clo?1 #hd ,imitations condemn$1 #b1 #ia ,inlay1 #bf ,ins]tion1 #hf1 #hg ,kneel]s1 #fh ,lace suitable = l951 #hb ,lacis1 #gg ,laid-"w1 #ae-ai comp>$ ) c\*+1 #ae1 #ai ,lavabo t[els1 #hd ,light1 arrangem5t (1 #e ,l951 alt>1 #gi col\r$1 #c col\r$ embroid]y on :ite1 #hj corporal1 #hc #8cut1' #hb drawn-?read1 #gi-hb embroid]y1 pr9cipal /it*es1 #gc-gg fr+e1 to wa%1 #hb ve/m5ts1 #he ,l95-"w1 mat]ials =1 #gc sampl]1 #gb ,l9es1 #8,sympa!tic1' #gf ,long- & %ort-/it*1 #ag ,maniple1 orig9 & symbolism (1 #ec %ape & size (1 #ec-ee !1 #ec ,mat]ials = backgr\nds1 #c = embroid]y1 #c-e = l95-"w1 #gc ,mitre1 #ea-eb ( ,/4 ,?omas ( ,cant]bury1 #ea ,ne$les1 #d to improve1 #d #8,opus ,anglicanum1' #cb ,outl9e1 #ba pr9ciple (1 #ba second>y1 #bc ,padd+ 9 gold-"w1 #ab 9 l95-"w1 #gd ,pall or h]se-clo?1 #ff1 #fg l951 #hc-hd ,p>*m5t1 use (1 #ab1 #eb ,pa/e1 embroid]y1 to make1 #be ,plate1 #ac ,plumage-/it*1 #ag ,pr9ciples1 a few-- ( col\r1 #ba ( decoration1 #b ( embroid]y z art1 #a ( proportion1 #dg1 #ff ,pulpit-hang+1 #gj ,purificators1 #hd ,radiation1 pr9ciple (1 #ag ,relief1 high1 #ab1 #gd exagg]at$1 #cj ,ro*et1 #hi ,sa9t ,ignatius ( ,loyola1 #ed ,?omas ( ,cant]bury's amice1 #hh app>el1 #hh *asuble1 #eh mitre1 #ea ,sampl] = gold-"w1 #h = l95-"w1 #gb = silk-"w1 #ad ,%ades ( floss-silk1 #b-ae 9 old "w1 #cf ,%ad+1 #ae1 #af ,silk & sat91 #c embroid]y1 #ae embroid]y comp>$ ) l951 #gd ,silks1 embroid]y1 #d ,soap1 c>bolic1 c41 to avoid1 #af ,/it*es--,back-/it*1 #gf basket-/it*1 #ab buttonhole1 #gd canvas or cu%ion1 #gg *a91 #bg c\*+1 #i1 #aj1 #aa1 #ae1 #fa cross1 #gf drawn-?read1 #ha fea!r1 #ge ,fr5* knots1 #bg h]r+-bone1 #ge laid-/it*1 #ae-ai nu 7d'or71 #cd1 #cf op5-work$ cross-/it*1 #gg sat91 #af1 #ag1 #ah l951 #gd %ort1 #ag1 #cd slant+1 #bj split-/it*1 #ah1 #bi1 #cj1 #cb1 #cf ,/ole1 orig9 & symbolism ( !1 #ec %ape & design1 #ee size ( !1 #ec ,/uff+-cotton1 #ab ,sud>ies1 #hd ,sup]-frontal or frontlet1 #df ,surplice1 anci5t1 #hi diagram1 #ij ,dr4 ,rock's patt]n1 #ij h[ to make1 #hi mod]n1 #hi ,symbols1 #if #8,sympa!tic l9es1' #gf ,syon cope1 arrangem5t ( design1 #cb backgr\nd (1 #cg col\rs (1 #cb figure f !1 #ca gold-"w (1 #cf me?od ( "w1 #cf ,toga1 ,roman1 #di ,t[els1 ,lavabo1 #hd ,trabea1 #di ,tunicle1 #eg ,veil1 *alice 7silk71 #eh1 #fc 7l9571 #hc hum]al1 #hd (f]tory1 #hd ,velvet1 #c ,ve/m5ts1 ,eu*>i/ic1 #ec col\rs (1 #ci1 #ec symbolism (1 #ec l951 #he-ij ( ,walt] de ,cantelupe1 fragm5ts (1 #cj #8:ite %9+1' #he ,:ite l951 decoration (1 #gc1 #gd ,worce/]1 bi%op's tomb at1 #ef fragm5t ( ve/m5ts1 #cj ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,spottiswoode ,,& ,,co4 ,,ltd41 ,,new-,,/reet ,,squ>e ,,london