,note3 ,images of the original pages are available through ,internet ,archive4 ,see https3_/_/archive4org_/details_/b#baebic df ,some characters might not display properly in this ,,utf-#h text file 7e4g41 empty squares74 ,if so1 the reader should consult the the original page images noted above or the html version3 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/cache_/epu b_/#egagi_/pg#egagi-;images4html7 or 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/files_/#eg agi_/egagi-;h4zip7 ,transcriber's note3 ,text enclosed by underscores is in italics 7italics74 ,original printed page numbers are enclosed by curly brackets like this3 #eb4 ,original small capitals are in upper case4 ,,the ,,flowing ,,bowl1 ,by ,,edward ,,spencer 99 99 99 99 99 99 ,by the ,same ,author ,,cakes ,,and ,,ale ,a ,memory of many ,meals2 the whole interspersed with various ,recipes1 more or less original1 and ,anecdotes1 mainly veracious4 ,,third ,,edition ,small ,crown #hvo1 ,cloth1 #bs4 ,cover designed by ,phil ,may ,,the ,,great ,,game ,,and ,,how ,,it ,,is ,,played ,a ,treatise on the ,turf1 full of ,tales ,small ,crown #hvo1 cloth1 #bs4 ,,london3 ,,grant ,,richards 99 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,,flowing ,,bowl ,a ,treatise on ,drinks of ,all ,kinds and of ,all ,periods1 ,interspersed with ,sundry ,anecdotes and ,reminiscences by ,,edward ,,spencer 7#8,nathaniel ,gubbins'7 ,author of #8,cakes and ,ale1' etc4 ,london ,grant ,richards #aijc ,,preface ,i claim no merit for the following pages1 other than may attach to industry1 application1 the gift of copying accurately1 and the acquisition of writer's cramp4 ,the mechanical writing is--to the great joy of the compositors who have dealt with it--every letter mine own2 but the best part of the book has been conveyed from other sources4 ,in fact the book is1 as the old lady said of the divine tragedy of ,hamlet1 8full of quotations40 ,the hand is the hand of ,gubbins1 but the voice is1 for the most part1 the voice of the great ones of the past1 including ,pliny and ,gervase ,markham4 ,the matter1 or most of it--,i am endeavouring to drive the fact home--is culled from other sources2 and if this is the most useful and interesting work ever published it is more my fortune than my fault4 ,the genial reception of my earlier effort1 ,cakes and ,ale--which was condemned only by worshippers of ,ala1 who were not expected to applaud--together with the hope of earning something towards the purchase of a ,bath ,chair--have induced me to issue this little treatise on liquids1 as a companion to my first cloth-bound book4 ,and innate modesty--,i stick to 8innate10 despite the critics--compels me to add that ,i think the last is the better work4 ,i will1 however1 leave a generous and discriminating public to decide that question for itself4 ,,london1 ,,christmas ,,eve1 #ahih4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,i ,,the ,,old ,,adam ,introductory -- ,awful habits of the ancients -- ,a bold1 bad book -- ,seneca on the ,drink ,habit -- ,the bow must not be always strung -- ,ebrietatis ,encomium -- ,the noble ,romans -- 8,dum vivimus vivamus0 -- ,the skeleton at the banquet -- ,skull-cups -- 8,life and wine are the same thing0 -- ,virgil and his contemporaries -- ,goats for ,bacchus -- ,the days of ,pliny -- ,rewards for drunkenness -- ,novellius ,torquatus -- ,three gallons at a draught -- ,a swallow which did not save ,rome -- ,the antiquity of getting for'ard -- ,noah as a grape-grower -- ,father ,frassen's ideas -- ,procopius of ,gaza -- ,new ,testament wine -- ,fermented or not8 -- ,bad old ,early ,christians -- ,drunkenness common in ,africa -- ,religion a cloak for alcohol -- ,tertullian on cider -- ,paulinus excuses intemperance -- ,excellence of ,early ,christians' intentions 4 4 4 ,pages #a-aj ,,chapter ,,ii ,,more ,,frightful ,,examples ,eating and drinking the only work of the monks -- ,nunc est bibendum -- ,an apology for ,herodotus -- ,a jovial pope -- ,good quarters in ,provence -- ,intemperance of holy men -- ,a tippling bishop -- ,alexander the ,great -- 8,lovely ,thais sits beside thee0 -- ,a big flare-up -- ,awful end of ,alec -- ,cambyses always shot straight -- ,darius the strong-of-head -- ,philip drunk and ,philip sober -- ,dionysius gets blind -- ,tiberius loved the bowl -- ,so did ,flavius ,vobiscus1 the diplomatist -- ,bluff ,king ,hal -- ,the ,merry ,monarch and the ,lord ,mayor -- ,dear ,old ,pepys -- ,a ,mansion ,house wine-list -- ,minimum allowance of sack -- ,a slump in brandy -- ,a church-tavern -- ,dean ,aldrich -- ,the ,romans at supper -- 8,the tippling philosophers0 4 4 4 ,pages #aa-ba ,,chapter ,,iii ,,drinks ,,ancient ,,and ,,modern ,the ,whitaker of the period -- ,france without wine -- ,babylonian boozers -- ,beer discovered by the ,egyptians -- ,a glass of bitter for ,cleopatra -- ,brainless ,persians -- ,german sots -- ,turning the tables -- ,intemperance in the ,north -- ,chinese intoxicants -- ,nature of ,sack -- ,mead and morat -- ,vinous metheglin -- ,favourite tipple of the ,ancient ,britons -- ,braggonet -- ,birch-wine -- 8,the inwariable0 of ,falstaff -- ,a recipe by ,sir ,walter ,raleigh -- ,saragossa wine -- ,usquebaugh -- ,clary -- ,apricock wine 4 4 4 #bb-ce ,,chapter ,,iv ,,some ,,old ,,recipes ,indifference of the ,chineses -- ,a nasty potion -- ,a nastier -- ,white ,bastard -- ,helping it to be eager -- ,improving ,malmsey -- ,death of the ,duke of ,clarence -- ,mum is not the word -- ,english champagne -- ,life without ,ebulum a blank -- ,cock ale -- ,how to dispose of surplus poultry -- ,painful fate of a pauper -- ,potage pauvre -- ,duties of the old ,english housewife -- ,election of wines1 not golf -- ,muskadine -- ,lemon wine -- ,familiar recipe -- ,king ,william's posset -- ,pope's ditto 4 4 4 ,pages #cf-dg ,,chapter ,v ,,glorious ,,beer ,nectar on ,olympus -- ,beer and the ,bible -- 8,ninepenny0 at ,eton -- 8,number ,one0 ,bass -- 8,the wicked weed called hops0 -- ,all is not beer that's bitter -- ,pathetic story of 8,poor ,richard0 -- ,secrets of brewing -- ,gervase ,markham -- ,an 8espen0 full of hops -- ,eggs in ale -- ,beer soup -- ,the wassail bowl -- ,sir ,watkin ,wynne -- ,brown ,betty -- ,rumfustian -- ,mother-in-law -- ,a delightful summer drink -- ,brasenose ale 4 4 4 #dh-fj ,,chapter ,,vi ,,all ,,ale ,waste not1 want not -- ,the right hand for the froth -- ,arthur ,roberts and ,phyllis ,broughton -- ,a landlord's perquisites -- ,marc ,antony and hot coppers -- ,introduction of ale into ,britain -- ,burton-on-,trent -- ,formerly a cotton-spinning centre -- ,a few statistics -- ,michael ,thomas ,bass -- ,a grand old man -- ,malting barleys -- ,porter and stout -- ,lager beer -- ,origin of bottled ale -- ,an ancient recipe -- ,lead-poisoning -- ,the poor man's beer 4 4 4 #fa-ga ,,chapter ,,vii ,a ,,spirituous ,,discourse ,what is brandy8 -- ,see that you get it -- ,potato-spirit from the ,fatherland -- ,the phylloxera and her ravages -- ,cognac oil -- ,natural history of the vine-louse -- 8,spoofing0 the ,yanks -- ,properties of ,argol -- ,brandy from sawdust -- ,desiccated window-sills -- ,enormous boom in whisky -- ,dewar and the trade -- ,water famine -- ,the serpent ,alcohol -- ,some figures -- ,france the drunken nation1 not ,britain -- ,taxing of distilleries -- ,uisge beatha -- ,fusel oil -- ,rye whisky -- ,palm wine -- ,john ,exshaw knocked out by ,john ,barleycorn 4 4 4 ,pages #gb-hb ,,chapter ,,viii ,,other ,,spirits ,old ,jamaica pine-apple -- 8,tots0 for ,tommy ,atkins -- ,the grog tub aboard ship -- ,omelette au rhum -- ,rum-and-milk -- ,ditto-and-ale -- ,a maddening mixture -- ,rectifying gin -- 8,the seasoning as does it0 -- ,oil of turpentine and table-salt -- ,a long thirst -- ,a farthing's worth of ,old ,tom -- ,roach-alum -- ,dirty gin -- ,gin and bitters -- 8,kosher0 rum -- ,an active and intelligent officer -- ,gambling propensities of the ,israelites -- ,the dice in the tumbler -- ,nomenclature at 8,the ,olde ,cheshyre ,cheese0 -- 8,rack0 -- 8,cork0 4 4 4 #hc-ij ,,chapter ,,ix ,,cups ,,which ,,cheer ,claret combinations -- ,not too much noyeau -- ,a treat for schoolboys -- ,the properties of borage -- 8,away with melancholy0 -- ,salmon's ,household ,companion -- ,balm for vapours -- ,crimean cup -- ,an elaborate and far-reaching compound -- ,orgeat -- ,a race-day cup -- 8,should auld acquaintance be forgot80 -- ,sparkling ,isabella -- ,rochester's delight -- ,freemason's relish -- ,porter cup -- ,dainty drink for a tennis-party 4 4 4 #ia-ajj ,,chapter ,x ,,punch ,derivation of the word questioned -- ,not an ,asiatic drink -- 8,pale-punts0 -- ,no relation to pale punters -- ,properties of rum -- ,toddy as a tonic -- ,irish punch -- ,glasgie ditto -- ,o'er muckle cauld watter -- ,one to seven -- ,hech sirs6 -- ,classical sherbet -- ,virtues of the feet of calves -- ,west ,india dry gripes -- ,make your own punch -- ,no deputy allowed -- ,attraction of capillaire -- ,gin punch -- ,eight recipes for milk-punch -- ,university heart-cheerers 4 4 4 ,pages #aja-aad ,,chapter ,,xi ,,strange ,,swallows 8,wormwood60--,the little green fairy -- ,all right when you know it1 but -- ,the hour of absinthe -- ,awful effects -- ,marie ,corelli -- ,st4 ,john the ,divine -- ,arrack and bhang not to be encouraged -- ,plain water -- ,the original intoxicant -- ,sacred beverage of the mild ,hindu -- ,chi ,chi -- ,kafta1 an ,arabian delight -- ,friends as whisky agents -- ,effervescent ,glenlivet -- ,the peat-reek -- ,american bar-keeper and his best customer -- 8,like swallerin' a circ'lar saw and pullin' it up again0 -- ,castor-oil anecdote -- 8,haste to the wedding60 4 4 4 #aae-abe ,,chapter ,,xii 8,,the ,,boy0 ,definition of the youth -- ,the valley of the ,marne -- ,an ,archbishop in sparkling company -- ,all is not cham4 that fizzes -- ,beneficial effects of ,pommery -- ,dire memories of the ,haymarket -- ,the bad boy at ,york -- ,a hair of the canine -- ,the good boy -- ,gout defied -- ,old ,roman cellars -- ,a chronic bombardment -- ,magnums to right of 'em -- ,duties of the disgorger -- ,simon the cellarer -- ,fifteen millions of full bottles -- ,pro-dig-i-ous6 -- ,gooseberry champagne a myth -- ,about ,mdoc -- ,the ancients spelt claret with two 8r's0 -- ,hints on adulteration -- 8,chteau ,gubbins0 -- ,new wine -- ,gladstone claret -- 8,pricked60 4 4 4 ,pages #abf-acf ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,the ,,old ,,wines ,,and ,,the ,,new ,decline and fall of port -- ,old topers -- ,a youthful wine-bibber -- ,the whisky age succeeds the port age -- 8,jeropiga0 -- ,landladies' port -- ,a monopoly -- ,port v4 gout -- ,a quaint breakfast in ,reading -- ,about nightcaps -- ,sherry an absolutely pure wine -- ,except when made within the four miles' radius -- ,treading the grapes -- 8,yeso0 -- ,pliny pops up again -- 8,lime in the sack0 -- ,what the ,lancet says -- 8,old ,sherry0 -- ,faux pas of a ,general -- ,about vintages 4 4 4 #acg-adh ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,the ,,long ,,and ,,the ,,short ,,of ,,it ,the ,long ,drink -- ,cremorne ,gardens -- ,hatfield -- ,assorted cocktails -- ,brandy-and-,soda -- ,otherwise ,stone ,fence -- ,bull's milk -- ,a burglar's brew -- ,more cocktails -- ,a 8swizzle0 -- ,l',amour ,pousse -- ,a corpse reviver -- ,a golden slipper -- ,a heap of comfort 4 4 4 #adi-afa ,,chapter ,,xv ,,still ,,harping ,,on ,,the ,,drink ,sangaree -- ,slings -- ,john ,collins -- ,smashes -- ,sour beverages -- ,home ,ruler -- ,burning brandy -- ,a prairie oyster -- ,a turkey ditto -- ,about negus1 for white-frock and black-mitten parties -- ,egg nogg -- ,a doctor -- ,a surgeon-major -- ,a new locomotive -- ,rumfustian -- ,pope -- ,bull's milk -- ,a bosom caresser -- ,the ,colleen ,bawn -- ,possets -- ,sir ,fleetwood ,fletcher 4 4 4 ,pages #afb-agc ,,chapter ,,xvi 8,,apple ,,sass0 ,ancient ,british seider -- ,conducive to longevity -- ,the best made in ,normandy -- ,which develops into champagne -- ,and other popular and salubrious wines -- ,non-alcoholic cider -- ,a loathsome brew -- ,german manufacturers -- ,medical properties of apple juice -- ,away with melancholy -- ,the mill and the press -- ,pure wine -- ,norfolk cider -- ,gaymer's gout-fuge -- ,revival of the industry -- ,old process of cider-making -- ,improving the flavour -- ,boiled cider -- ,hippocras -- ,juniper cider -- ,an ancient cider-cup 4 4 4 #agd-ahd ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,cordials ,,and ,,liqueurs ,a chat about cherry brandy -- ,cherry gin -- ,and cherry whisky -- ,sloe gin -- ,highland cordial -- ,what ,king ,charles ,,ii4 swallowed -- ,poor ,charles6 -- ,ginger brandy -- ,orange-flower brandy -- ,employment of carraway seeds -- ,the school treat -- ,use and abuse of aniseed -- ,do not drink quince whisky -- ,try orange brandy instead -- ,a hell-broth -- ,curaoa -- ,cassis -- ,chartreuse -- ,the monks as benefactors -- ,some quaint tavern 8refreshers0 -- ,kirschenwasser -- ,noyeau -- ,parfait amour -- ,maraschino -- ,a valuable ginger cordial 4 4 4 ,pages #ahe-aig ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,the ,,aftermath ,,of ,,revelry ,revelry means remorse -- ,and 8,katzenjammer0 -- ,and other things -- ,why will ye do it8 -- ,the devil in solution -- ,alcoholism a disease -- ,an accountant on wires -- ,a jumpy journalist -- ,a lot of jolly dogs -- ,what is 8,langdebeefe08 -- ,to cure spleen or vapours -- ,directly opposite effects of alcohol -- ,the best pick-me-up in the world -- ,an anchovy toast -- ,baltimore egg nogg -- ,orange quinine -- ,about brandy and soda-water -- ,a ,scorcher -- ,brazil relish -- ,st4 ,mark's pick-me-up -- ,a champion bitters -- ,a devilled biscuit -- ,restorative sandwiches -- ,fresh air and exercise best of all -- ,stick to your nerve6 4 4 4 #aih-baj ,,chapter ,,xix ,,the ,,drinks ,,of ,,dickens ,the lesson taught by 8,boz0 -- ,clothing ,christmas -- ,dickens's drunkards -- ,fantastic names for ales -- ,robbing a boy of his beer -- ,a school supper -- ,poor ,traddles -- ,micawber and punch -- ,revelry at ,pecksniff's -- ,todgers's 8doing it0 -- ,delights of the 8,dragon0 -- ,sairey ,gamp's requirements -- ,what was in the teapot -- ,the 8,maypole0 -- ,sydney ,carton's hopeless case -- ,stryver's model -- 8,little ,d4 is ,deed nonsense0 -- ,dear old ,crummles -- ,a magnum of the ,double ,diamond -- ,newman ,noggs -- ,brandy before breakfast -- ,mr4 ,fagin's pupils -- ,orange-peel and water -- ,quilp on fire -- 8,pass the rosy0 -- ,harold ,skimpole -- ,joey ,bagstock -- ,brandy-and-tar-water -- ,that ass ,pumblechook -- ,an inexhaustible bottle -- ,jaggers's luncheon -- ,pickwick v4 total abstinence -- ,everything an excuse for a dram -- ,brandy and oysters -- 8,the inwariable0 -- ,milk-punch -- ,charm of the ,pickwick ,papers 4 4 4 ,pages #baa-bbf ,,chapter ,,xx ,,sworn ,,off6 ,introduction of temperance into ,england -- ,america struck it first -- ,doctor ,johnson an abstainer -- ,collapse of the ,permissive ,bill -- ,human nature and forbidden fruit -- ,effects of repressive legislation -- ,sunday closing in ,wales -- ,paraffin for miners -- ,toasting her ,majesty -- ,a good win -- ,a shout and a drink -- ,jesuitical logic of the prohibitioners -- ,the end justifies the means -- ,a few non-alcoholic recipes -- ,abstainers and alcohol -- ,pure spring-water v4 milk-punch -- 8,tried baith60 4 4 4 #bbg-bcg ,,index ,,of ,,recipes 4 4 4 #bci-bdc ,,chapter ,i ,,the ,,old ,,adam ,introductory -- ,awful habits of the ancients -- ,a bold1 bad book -- ,seneca on the ,drink ,habit -- ,the bow must not be always strung -- ,ebrietatis ,encomium -- ,the noble ,romans -- 8,dum vivimus vivamus0 -- ,the skeleton at the banquet -- ,skull-cups -- 8,life and wine are the same thing0 -- ,virgil and his contemporaries -- ,goats for ,bacchus -- ,the days of ,pliny -- ,rewards for drunkenness -- ,novellius ,torquatus -- ,three gallons at a draught -- ,a swallow which did not save ,rome -- ,the antiquity of getting for'ard -- ,noah as a grape-grower -- ,father ,frassen's ideas -- ,procopius of ,gaza -- ,new ,testament wine -- ,fermented or not8 -- ,bad old ,early ,christians -- ,drunkenness common in ,africa -- ,religion a cloak for alcohol -- ,tertullian on cider -- ,paulinus excuses intemperance -- ,excellence of ,early ,christians' intentions4 ,i wish to state at the outset that this little work is not compiled in the interests of the sot1 the toper1 and the habitual over-estimator of his swallowing capacity4 ,that the gifts of the gods1 and the concoctions of more or less vile man1 should be used with moderation1 if we wish to really and thoroughly enjoy them1 is a truism which needs no repetition2 and although at the commencement of this work many 8frightful #b examples0 of the evils of over-indulgence will be found mentioned1 nothing but moderation will be found counselled in my book1 from cover to cover4 ,in the past1 drunkenness was not always regarded as a vice1 and this is evident from much of the literature of former generations4 ,in the course of my researches into the alcohol question ,i have come across a little book which bears the shameful and abandoned title of ,ebrietatis ,encomium1 or the ,praise of ,drunkenness4 ,and this book1 which conveys such questionably moral aphorisms as 8,it is good for one's health to be drunk occasionally10 and 8,the truly happy are the truly intoxicated10 claims to prove1 8most authentically and most evidently1 the necessity of frequently getting drunk1 and that the practice is most ancient1 primitive1 and catholic40 ,the author commences with what he calls 8a beautiful passage out of ,seneca3-- 8,the soul must not be always bent3 one must sometimes allow it a little pleasure4 ,socrates was not ashamed to pass the time with children4 ,cato enjoyed himself in drinking plentifully1 when his mind had been too much wearied out in public affairs4 ,scipio knew very well how to move that body1 so much inured to wars and triumphs1 without breaking it1 as some nowadays do 4 4 4 2 but as people did in past times1 who would make themselves merry on their festivals1 by leading a dance really worthy men of those days1 whence could ensue no reproach1 when even their very enemies had seen them dance4 ,one must allow the mind #c some recreation3 it makes it more gay and peaceful4 4 4 4 ,assiduity of labour begets a languor and bluntness of the mind3 for sleep is very necessary to refresh us1 and yet he that would do nothing else but sleep night and day would be a dead man1 and no more4 ,there is a great deal of difference between loosening a thing1 and quite unravelling it4 ,those who made laws have instituted holidays1 to oblige people to appear at public rejoicings1 in order to mingle with their cares a necessary temperament4 4 4 4 ,you must sometimes walk in the open air1 that the mind may exalt itself by seeing the heavens1 and breathing the air at your ease2 sometimes take the air in your chariot1 the roads and the change of the country will re-establish you in your vigour2 or you may eat and drink a little more plentifully than usual4 ,sometimes one must even go as far as to get drunk2 not indeed with an intention to drown ourselves in wine1 but to drown our care4 ,for wine drives away sorrow and care1 and goes and fetches them up from the bottom of the soul4 ,and as drunkenness cures some distempers1 so1 in like manner1 it is a sovereign remedy for our sorrows0 7,seneca de ,tranquillitate74 ,such sentiments were doubtless popular enough in ,great ,britain at the commencement of the present century--when ,ebrietatis ,encomium was published--when three and four bottle-men slept where they fell1 8repugnant to command02 and malt liquor1 small or strong1 was the only known matutinal restorative of manly vigour4 ,but my own experience is that #d the sorrow and care which may be temporarily driven away by drowning them in the bowl are apt to return within a very few hours1 reinforced an hundredfold1 with their weapons re-sharpened1 their instruments of torture put in thorough working-order1 and with many other devils worse than themselves4 ,a man1 sound in body and mind1 may really enjoy a certain amount of good liquor without feeling any ill effects next morning2 but woe to him who seeks to drown that which cannot sink2 to crush the worm which knows not death6 ,the individual has yet to be born who can flourish1 either in body or soul1 on his own immoderation2 and but for a chronic state of thirst in early youth ,i should not now be reduced to the compilation of drink statistics for a living4 ,but the ancients1 in their heathen philosophy--which1 by the way1 was once recommended to ,christians to follow--took no thought for the morrow4 8,carpe diem60 was the head and front of the programme of the ,roman patricians1 who used to cry aloud at their feasts1 by way of grace before meat3-- ,,amici1 ,,dum ,,vivimus ,,vivamus6 ,this was probably the original version of 8,we won't go home till morning10 and was sung1 or shouted1 at all bean-feasts and smart supper-parties4 ,the ancient ,egyptians made use of a very extraordinary1 and a very nasty1 custom in their festivals4 ,they shewed to every guest a #e skeleton1 before the soup was served4 ,this1 according to some historians1 was to make the feasters think on their latter end4 ,but others assert that this strange figure was brought into use for a directly opposite reason2 that the image of death was shewn for no other intent than to excite the guests to pass their lives merrily1 and to employ the few days of its small duration to the best advantage2 as having no other condition to expect after death than that of this frightful skeleton4 ,this was the idea of one ,trimalchion1 who1 ,petronius tells us1 thus expressed himself on the subject3 8,alas6 alas6 wretched that we are6 ,what a nothing is poor man6 ,we shall be like this1 when ,fate shall have snatched us hence4 ,let us therefore rejoice1 and be merry while we are here40 ,the original ,latin of this translation is much stronger1 and had better not be given here4 ,and the same ,trimalchion on another occasion remarked3 8,alas6 ,wine therefore lives longer than man1 let us then sit down and drink bumpers2 life and wine are the same thing40 ,the ,scythians undoubtedly used to drink out of vessels fashioned from human skulls1 and probably had the same design in doing so as the ,egyptians had in looking on their nasty skeletons4 ,in ,virgil's time1 his contemporaries--and very probably the old man himself--drank deep2 but instead of fighting1 and breaking things1 and jumping on their wives1 and getting locked up1 they brought their own heathen religion into their debaucheries4 ,in more civilized circles1 at this end of the most civilized century1 the reveller #f goes out 8to see a man10 and subsequently 8shouts for the crowd02 but in ,virgil's time a man who had a drink was said to be 8pouring forth libations to the gods10 8making sacrifices0--more especially to ,bacchus1 the wine deity1 whom nothing under the slaughter of a he-goat was supposed to propitiate4 ,and the 8,billy0 was chosen for the sacrifice1 because the tender shoots of the vine formed his favourite food1 in a land in which there was neither brown paper1 nor wall-plaster1 nor salmon-tins1 to nibble4 ,and these sacrifices to the rosy god were 8occasions0 7as they say in the ,city7 indeed6 ,i have often wondered what the ancients did to cure a headache2 and whether a man said to be 8possessed of a devil0 was in reality suffering from ,alcohol1 8the ,devil in solution10 in the shape of delirium tremens in one of its many and objectionable forms4 ,in the time of ,pliny1 drunkenness and debauchery appear to have been the principal studies of the nations about whom he had information4 ,a man was actually rewarded for getting drunk--tell it not in ,vine ,street1 ,w46 ,the greatest drinker got the most prizes2 and ,pliny informs us that whilst the ,parthians contended for the distinction of having the hardest heads and the longest swallows1 they were simply 8not in it0 with the ,milanese1 who had a real champion in one ,novellius ,torquatus4 ,this man1 according to history1 could have given a market-porter of the present day1 a brewer's drayman1 or a stockbroker1 any amount of start over the ,alcohol course1 and 8lost0 him4 ,this ,novellius won the championship from all #g pretenders1 and 8had gone through all honourable degrees of dignity in ,rome1 wherein the greatest repute he obtained was for drinking in the presence of ,tiberius three gallons of wine at one draught1 and before he drew his breath again2 neither did he rest there1 but he so far had acquired the art of drinking1 that although he continued at it1 yet was never known to falter in his tongue2 and were it ne'er so late in the evening he followed this exercise1 yet would be ready again for it in the morning4 ,those large draughts also he drank at one breath1 without leaving in the cup so much as would dash against the pavement40 ,ah6 ,we have nobody up to this form to talk about nowadays2 and if men have improved in morality they must have deteriorated in capacity1 or the occupation of gaolers and warders would be gone4 ,and the poor old poet 8,spring ,onions10 with even a tenth part of the powers of endurance and swallow of ,novellius ,torquatus1 might have escaped even one solitary conviction4 8,if the antiquity of a custom10 writes the author of ,ebrietatis ,encomium1 8makes it always good and laudable1 certainly drunkenness can never deserve sufficient recommendation4 ,every one knows that ,noah got drunk after he had planted the vine4 ,there are some who pretend to excuse him1 that he was not acquainted with the strength of wine4 ,but to this it may very well be answered that it is not very probable so wise a man as ,noah should plant a vine without knowing its nature and property4 ,besides it is one thing to know whether he got drunk at all3 and another whether he had an intention to do so40 #h ,the amount of water previously experienced by ,noah should surely be sufficient to purge him of the offence of making too free with the fruit of the vine6 8,but10 continues the laudator of ebriety1 8if we give any credit to several learned persons1 ,noah was not the first man who got fuddled4 ,father ,frassen maintains #8that people fed on flesh before the ,flood1 and drank wine4' ,there is no likelihood1 according to him1 that men contented themselves with drinking water for fifteen or sixteen hundred years together4 ,it is much more credible that they prepared a drink more nourishing and palatable4 ,these first men of the world were endued with no less share of wit than their posterity1 and consequently wanted no industry to invent everything that might contribute to make them pass their lives agreeably4 ,before the ,flood men married1 and gave their children in marriage4 ,these people regaled each other1 and made solemn entertainments4 ,now who can imagine that they drank at those festivals nothing but water1 and fed only on fruits and herbs6 ,noah1 therefore1 was not the inventor of the use which we make of the grape2 the most that he did was only to plant new vines40 ,procopius of ,gaza1 one of the most ancient and learned interpreters of ,scripture1 thinks it no less true that the vine was known in the world before ,noah's time2 but he does not allow that the use of wine was known before the patriarch1 whom he believes to be the inventor of it4 ,as for the wine mentioned in the ,new ,testament1 we are now assured by modern commentators--total #i abstainers every one--that it was unfermented1 devoid of alcohol1 and non-intoxicating4 ,i had certainly always looked upon the wine which ,timothy was enjoined to take for his 8stomach's sake10 as some form of brandy4 ,the ,early ,christians--like far too many of the late ditto--were terrible topers4 ,ecclesiastical history tells us that in the primitive church it was customary to appoint solemn feasts on the festivals of martyrs4 ,this appears by the harangue of ,constantine1 and from the works of ,st4 ,gregory ,nazianzen1 and ,st4 ,chrysostom4 ,drunkenness was rife at those feasts2 and this excess was looked upon as permissible4 ,this is shewn by the pathetic complaints of ,st4 ,augustine and ,st4 ,cyprian1 the former of which holy fathers thus delivered himself3-- 8,drunken debauches pass as permitted amongst us1 so that people turn them into solemn feasts1 to honour the memory of the martyrs2 and that not only on those days which are particularly consecrated to them 7which would be a deplorable abuse to those who look at those things with other eyes than those of the flesh71 but on every day of the year40 ,st4 ,cyprian1 in a treatise attributed to him1 says much the same thing3-- 8,drunkenness is so common with us in ,africa that it scarce passes for a crime4 ,and do we not see ,christians forcing one another to get drunk1 to celebrate the memory of the martyrs80 ,cardinal du ,perron told his contemporaries 8that the ,manichans said that the ,catholicks were people much given to wine1 but that they #aj never drank any10 which sounds paradoxical4 ,against this charge ,st4 ,augustine only defends them by recrimination4 ,he answers1 8that it was true1 but that they 7the ,manichans7 drank the juice of apples1 which was more delicious than all the wines and liquors in the world40 ,and so does ,tertullian1 who said the liquor press'd from apples was most strong and vinous4 ,his words are3 8,succum ex pomis vinosissimum40 ,i trust that in quoting all those things ,i am not becoming wearisome1 at the very commencement of my work2 the main object being to show that all the drinking in the world is not done by the present generation of vipers4 ,but the ,early ,christians were excused for their habits of soaking1 by ,paulinus1 on the grounds of the 8excellence of their intentions02 which naturally reminds us of the celebrated excuse of the late ,monsieur ,thiers1 on a much later occasion4 ,the words of ,paulinus are1 when translated and adapted3-- ,but yet that mirth in little feasts enjoy'd ,i think should ready absolution find2 ,slight peccadillo of an erring mind1 ,artless and rude1 of all disguises void1 ,their simple hearts too easy to believe 7,conscious of nothing ill7 that saints in tombs ,enshrin'd should any happiness perceive ,from quaffing cups1 and wines' ascending fumes1 ,must be excus'd1 since what they did they meant ,with piety ill plac'd1 yet good intent4 ,similar pleas are occasionally urged by roysterers nowadays1 yet they are but seldom credited in their own parishes4 #aa ,,chapter ,,ii ,,more ,,frightful ,,examples ,eating and drinking the only work of the monks -- ,nunc est bibendum -- ,an apology for ,herodotus -- ,a jovial pope -- ,good quarters in ,provence -- ,intemperance of holy men -- ,a tippling bishop -- ,alexander the ,great -- 8,lovely ,thais sits beside thee0 -- ,a big flare-up -- ,awful end of ,alec -- ,cambyses always shot straight -- ,darius the strong-of-head -- ,philip drunk and ,philip sober -- ,dionysius gets blind -- ,tiberius loved the bowl -- ,so did ,flavius ,vobiscus1 the diplomatist -- ,bluff ,king ,hal -- ,the ,merry ,monarch and the ,lord ,mayor -- ,dear old ,pepys -- ,a ,mansion ,house wine-list -- ,minimum allowance of sack -- ,a slump in brandy -- ,a church-tavern -- ,dean ,aldrich -- ,the ,romans at supper -- 8,the tippling philosophers40 ,not even popes1 saints1 or bishops were exempt from accusations of loving the juice of the grape1 or of the apple1 too well4 ,we read in the adages of ,erasmus that it was a proverb amongst the ,germans that the lives of the monks consisted in nothing but eating and drinking4 ,one ,h4 ,stephens says on this subject1 in his apology for ,herodotus3-- 8,but to return to these proverbs1 theological wine1 and the abbot's1 or prelate's1 table4 ,i say #ab that without these one could never rightly understand the beautiful passage of ,horace3-- ,nunc est bibendum1 nunc pede libero ,pulsanda tellus2 nunc ,saliaribus ,ornare pulvinar ,deorum ,tempus erat dapibus sodales1 nor this other3-- ,absumet haeres ,caecuba dignior ,servata centum clavibus3 et mero ,tinget pavimentum superbo ,pontificum potiore coenis40 ,modern popes have always had a reputation for abstemiousness2 but this same ,mr4 ,stephens--who must have been somewhat of a slander-monger--in his same apology for ,herodotus 7what about the apology for ,stephens87 mentions a popular little song of the day1 which commenced3-- ,le ,pape qui est ,rome ,boit du vin comme un autre homme1 ,et du l',hypocras aussi4 ,and ,i can recall a cheery1 albeit most likely libellous1 song1 which some of us used to sing at school1 beginning3-- ,the ,pope he leads a joyous life4 ,it appears to be a fact that many former popes drank hard2 and if ,petrarch is to be believed1 the long stay made by the court of ,rome at ,avignon was on account of the excellence of the ,french wines2 and that it was merely for that #ac reason that they stayed so long in ,provence1 and removed with so much reluctance4 ,now for the saints4 ,although the fact of his drinking deep has been denied1 ,st4 ,augustine appears to have confessed to 8a day out0 occasionally1 in some such words as these3 8,thy servant has been sometimes crop-sick through excess of wine4 ,have mercy on me1 that it may be ever far from me40 ,amongst the bishops one instance must suffice4 8,pontus de ,thiard10 as appears from an old translation of the works of an eminent ,frenchman1 8after having repented of the sins of his youth1 came to be bishop of ,chalons-sur-,soane2 but1 however1 he did not renounce the power of drinking heavily1 which seemed then inseparable from the quality of a good poet4 ,he had a stomach big enough to empty the largest cellar2 and the best wines of ,burgundy were too gross for the subtility of the fire which devoured him4 ,every night1 at going to bed1 besides the ordinary doses of the day1 in which he would not suffer the least drop of water1 he used to drink a bottle before he slept4 ,he enjoyed a strong1 robust1 and vigorous health1 to the age of fourscore40 ,dear old ,pontus6 ,of all other mighty men1 ,alexander the ,great serves to best point the moral of the evils of intemperance4 ,wearied of conquering1 this hero gave himself up to debauchery in its worst and wildest forms4 ,he killed his foster-brother in a fit of drunkenness1 and subsequently1 at the bidding of 8lovely ,thais10 queen of the #ad ,athenian demi-monde1 set fire to1 and burnt to the ground1 ,persepolis1 the wonder of the world4 ,what an awakening ,alec must have had6 ,not that he was the first1 nor yet the last1 man to make a fool1 or rogue1 of himself1 at the bidding of the 7alleged7 gentler sex4 ,cleopatra corrupted a few heroes1 and as for ,la ,pompadour but those be other stories4 ,alexander the ,great1 who had lost most of his greatness by that time1 died from the effects of chronic alcoholism2 although they didn't tell me as much as this at school4 ,cambyses was but little removed from a sot4 ,this prince1 having been told by one of his courtiers that the people thought ,cambyses indulged in too many 8drunks0 for the good of the nation1 reached for his best bow and his sharpest arrow1 and1 the courtier having retired out of range1 shot the courtier's son through the heart2 after which the prince enquired of the courtier3 8,is this the act of a drunkard80 which reminds me of a more modern anecdote1 of a ,piccadilly roysterer4 ,but some men can shoot straighter1 and ride better1 and write more poetically1 when under the influence of the rosy god2 and had this courtier been a man of the world he would not have touched on the subject of ebriation to his prince4 ,for ebriates are but seldom proud of their weaknesses4 ,darius1 the first ,king of ,persia1 commanded that this epitaph1 which is here translated1 should be placed on his tomb3 8,i could drink much wine and bear it well40 ,philip of ,macedon1 father of ,alexander the ,great1 took too much wine on #ae occasion2 to corroborate which fact we have the exclamation of the good lady whose prayer for justice he had refused to hear--this is a quotation beloved of members of ,parliament--8,i appeal from ,philip drunk to ,philip sober40 ,dionysius the younger1 tyrant of ,sicily1 frequently had vine-leaves in his hair for a week at a time2 he drank himself almost blind1 and his courtiers1 in order to flatter him1 pretended to be blind too1 and neither ate nor drank anything unless it were handed to them by ,dionysius himself4 ,tiberius was called ,biberius1 because of his excessive attachment to the bowl2 and1 in derision1 they changed his surname of ,nero to ,mero4 ,bonosus1 according to his own historian1 ,flavius ,vobiscus1 was a terrible soaker1 and used to make the ambassadors1 who came from foreign parts1 even more drunk than himself1 in order that he might discover their secret instructions4 ,i cannot glean from the ancient records that any monarch who reigned over ,great ,britain was an habitual drunkard1 an absolute and confirmed sot4 ,but many of them were given to conviviality1 notably ,richard of the ,lion ,heart1 ,bluff ,king ,hal--who had gout badly1 and suffered also from obesity and other things--and the ,merry ,monarch4 ,a story is told of the ,second ,charles1 that when dining with the ,lord ,mayor1 ,sir ,robert ,viner1 on one occasion--it was probably a #ith of ,november dinner at the ,mansion ,house--the ,king noticed that most of the guests were uncomfortably uproarious1 and1 with his suite1 rose to leave the banqueting chamber4 ,whereupon the ,lord ,mayor hastily #af pursued him1 caught hold of his robe1 and exclaimed3 8,sire1 you shall take t'other bottle40 ,the ,king stopped1 and with a graceful smile repeated a line of the old song1 8,he that is drunk is great as a king10 and with this compliment to his host1 he returned1 and took 8t'other bottle40 ,the immortal ,pepys describes a ,lord ,mayor's ,feast which was given in #affc4 ,it was served at one o'clock1 and a bill of fare was placed1 together with a salt-cellar1 in front of every guest2 whilst at the end of each table was a list of 8persons proper0 there to be seated4 ,pepys was placed at the merchant-strangers' table1 8where ten good dishes to a mess1 with plenty of wine of all sorts40 ,napkins and knives were1 however1 only supplied at the ,lord ,mayor's table to him and the ,lords of the ,privy ,council2 and ,pepys complains bitterly that he and those who were seated with him had no napkins nor change of trenchers1 and had to drink out of earthen pitchers4 ,he1 however1 took his spoon and fork away with him1 as was customary in those days with all guests invited to entertainments4 ,but as each guest brought his own tools1 nobody was the worse for this custom4 ,the dinner1 says ,pepys1 was provided by the ,mayor and two sheriffs for the time being1 and the whole cost was between #gjj and #hjj4 ,we are not told what was drunk at the ,mansion ,house on that occasion1 but ,i have a list before me of the potables served at the ,lord ,mayor's banquet in #aghb--more than a century later--which seems deserving of mention in this little work3-- #ag ,port #dch bottles ,lisbon #bbj ,madeira #ij ,claret #afh ,champagne #adc ,burgundy #aaf ,malmsey1 or ,sack #d ,brandy #d ,hock #ff ,grand ,total #abdi ,there be several remarkable features in the above list4 ,i had imagined that a taste for claret had not been fully acquired by the ,british ratepayer until some years later than this2 whilst the virtues of champagne could not have been fully recognized4 ,lisbon1 ,i conceive to have been another sort of port1 and this seems to have been neck-and-cork above all other vintages in popular favour4 ,the taste for such mawkish stuff as malmsey must have been at vanishing point2 whilst one is led to ask what1 with only such a minute allowance of sack1 did these feasters drink with their soup8 ,was the succulency of calipash and calipee known in those days2 and if so1 where was the harmless necessary milk-punch8 ,but the most remarkable feature of all in the above catalogue is the meagre allowance of brandy for the crowd4 ,the parable of the loaves and fishes would not appear more miraculous than that1 in these later days1 a multitude could be filled1 after a big dinner1 with four bottles of cognac6 ,and this despite the fact of whisky having almost entirely usurped the place of the other strong-water4 #ah ,one hundred years ago1 to be 8drunk as a lord0 was considered the height of human happiness4 ,and at this period the ,church had not severed its old connection with alcohol4 ,in fact intemperance was encouraged by our pastors and masters2 and in certain districts of ,england the churchwardens1 at ,whitsuntide1 made collections of malt from the parishioners1 and this was brewed into strong ale1 and sold in the churches1 the money so obtained being expended on the repairs of the sacred edifices2 and it was a frequent and a saddening spectacle to see men who had drunk not wisely reeling about the aisles4 ,until as late as #ahbg--;in which year the license was withdrawn--a church and a tavern were covered by the same roof1 in the parish of ,deepdale1 a village between ,derby and ,nottingham2 and a door which could be opened at will led from the altar to the tap-room4 ,a ,romish priest wrote in praise of the bowl as follows3-- ,si bene commemini1 causae sunt quinque bibendi3 ,hospitis adventus2 praesens sitis2 atque futura2 ,aut vini bonitas2 aut quaelibet altera causa4 ,which comforting and jovial sentiments were thus adapted for the use of colleges and private bars1 by ,dean ,aldrich1 ,d4,d41 the great master of logic at ,oxford3-- ,there are1 if ,i do rightly think1 ,five reasons why a man should drink3 ,good wine1 a friend1 or being dry1 ,or lest you should be by and by ,or any other reason why4 #ai ,but after all no nation ever did themselves so well1 in the matter of wines1 as the inhabitants of bad old ancient ,rome4 8,it was to excess of drinking10 wrote ,whyte ,melville1 in ,the ,gladiators1 8that the gluttons of that period looked as the especial relief of every entertainment2 since the hope of each seemed to be that when thoroughly flooded1 and so to speak washed out with wine1 he might begin eating again4 ,the ,roman was no drunkard1 like the barbarian1 for the sake of that wild excitement of the brain which is purchased by intoxication4 ,no1 he ate to repletion that he might drink in gratification4 ,he drank to excess that he might eat again40 ,further on the same writer remarks3 8,whilst marvelling at the quantity of wine consumed by the ,romans in their entertainments1 we must remember that it was the pure and unadulterated juice of the grape1 that it was in general freely mixed with water1 and that they imbibed but a very small portion of alcohol1 which is the destructive quality of all stimulants40 ,as to the ,roman vintages being 8in general freely mixed with water10 ,i have grave doubts4 ,i have an idea that ,maecenas would have made it particularly warm for that slave who might have dared to water his old ,falernian2 and1 take them altogether1 an amusement-loving1 and playgoing public1 for whom the legitimate drama took the form of certain brave men and fair women being torn and eaten by wild beasts1 would hardly have been content with such drink for babes as 8claret cold40 #bj ,ancient poets were not less backward than modern votaries of the muses2 and it is related of the poet ,philoxenus that he was frequently heard to express the wish that he had a neck as long as a crane's1 that he might the longer have the pleasure of swallowing wine1 and of enjoying its delicious taste4 ,i have heard the same wish expressed1 during much more recent years4 ,one more old song1 translated from a ,french chanson boire1 and ,i take my leave of the awful habits of the ancients 7,i trust7 for ever4 ,it is called ,,the ,,tippling ,,philosophers4 ,diogenes1 surly and proud1 ,who snarl'd at the ,macedon youth1 ,delighted in wine that was good1 ,because in good wine there is truth2 ,but growing as poor as a ,job1 ,unable to purchase a flask1 ,he chose for his mansion a tub1 ,and lived by the scent of the cask4 ,neither the air1 nor the chorus1 of this song is given in the old ,,ms4 ,but ,i would suggest the old air of 8,wednesbury ,cocking10 with a little 8tol-de-rol0 at the finish of each verse4 ,heraclitus ne'er could deny ,to tipple and cherish his heart1 ,and when he was maudlin he'd cry1 ,because he had empty'd his quart2 ,tho' some are so foolish to think ,he wept at men's folly and vice1 ',twas only his fashion to drink ,till the liquor flow'd out of his eyes4 #ba ,democritus always was glad ,of a bumper to cheer up his soul1 ,and would laugh like a man that was mad ,when over a good flowing bowl4 ,as long as his cellar was stor'd1 ,the liquor he'd merrily quaff1 ,and when he was drunk as a lord ,at those who were sober he'd laugh4 ,aristotle1 the master of arts1 ,had been but a dunce without wine1 ,and what we ascribe to his parts ,is due to the juice of the vine4 ,his belly most writers agree ,was as big as a watering trough1 ,he therefore leap'd into the sea1 ,because he'd have liquor enough4 ,old ,plato1 the learned divine1 ,he fondly to wisdom was prone1 ,but had it not been for good wine1 ,his merits had never been known2 ,by wine we are generous made1 ,it furnishes fancy with wings1 ,without it we ne'er should have had ,philosophers1 poets1 or kings4 #bb ,,chapter ,,iii ,,drinks ,,ancient ,,and ,,modern ,the ,whitaker of the period -- ,france without wine -- ,babylonian boozers -- ,beer discovered by the ,egyptians -- ,a glass of bitter for ,cleopatra -- ,brainless ,persians -- ,german sots -- ,turning the tables -- ,intemperance in the ,north -- ,chinese intoxicants -- ,nature of ,sack -- ,mead and morat -- ,vinous metheglin -- ,favourite tipple of the ,ancient ,britons -- ,braggonet -- ,birch-wine -- 8,the invariable0 of ,falstaff -- ,a recipe by ,sir ,walter ,raleigh -- ,saragossa wine -- ,usquebaugh -- ,clary -- ,apricock wine4 ,pliny--whose works contain almost as much general information as ,whitaker's ,almanack--tells us that the western nations got drunk with certain liquors made with fruits2 and that those liquors have different names in ,gaul and ,spain1 though they produce the same effect4 ,ammianus ,marcellinus reports that 8the ,gauls having no wine in their country0--only fancy what a country ,france must have been to live in without champagne and claret1 not to mention burgundy and cider--8though they are very fond of it1 contrive a great many sorts of liquors which produce the same effect as wine40 ,the ,scythians1 too1 had no wine1 but got 8for'ard0 #bc just the same4 ,one of their philosophers1 upon being asked if they had nobody who played the flute in ,scythia1 replied that 8they had not so much as any wine there40 ,which seems to hint to flute-playing being a thirsty trade1 even in those days4 ,the ,babylonians were1 according to ,herodotus1 habitual over-estimators of their swallowing capacity1 and got merry after inhaling the fumes of certain herbs which they burned2 which sounds like anything but a comfortable debauch1 and must have choked some of them4 ,strabo tells all who care to read him that the ,indians drank the juice of sugar-canes1 which we now call rum2 whilst according to ,pliny and ,athenaeus the ,egyptians fuddled themselves with a drink made from barley2 evidently undeveloped beer4 ,and it is quite on the cards that ,cleopatra occasionally drew1 with her own fair hands1 for her beloved ,antony1 a glass of 8bitter10 with a head on it4 ,but the quaintest and most awe-inspiring of all drinks seems to have been that affected by the ,persians--now decent1 sober people enough2 this was a liquor made from boiled poppy-seeds1 and called ,kokemaar4 ,they drank it scalding hot1 in the presence of many spectators1 who may or may not have been charged for admission4 8,before it operates10 wrote a chronicler of the times1 8they quarrel with one another1 and give abusive language1 without coming to blows2 afterwards when the drug begins to have its #bd effect1 then they also begin to make peace4 ,one compliments in a very high degree1 another tells stories1 but all are extremely ridiculous both in their words and actions40 ,and after mentioning other liquors which they use1 he adds1 8,it is difficult to find in ,persia a man that is not addicted to one of these liquors1 without which they think they cannot live but very unpleasantly40 ,anything nastier than hot laudanum as a restorative ,i cannot imagine4 ,it sounds curious to read that ,france and ,spain were censured by that universal provider of knowledge1 ,pliny1 for their drunkenness with beer and ale1 8wines not being in that age so frequent40 ,what was the world like before the invention of port wine1 ,i wonder8 ,for in ,pliny's time ,italy exceeded all parts of the world for her luscious and curious vintages1 being responsible for #aie different sorts of wines4 ,their ,names and ,kinds innumerable are1 ,nor for their ,catalogue we need not care2 ,which who would know as soon may count the ,sands ,the ,western ,winds raise on the ,libyan ,strands4 ,at a much later date1 in the seventeenth century1 ,italy still held her own in the matter of the juice of the grape2 and then1 as now1 their ,chianti and ,lachrymae ,christi were justly celebrated4 ,strange to say at the same period the ,germans1 we read1 8are much given to drunkenness1 as one of their own countrymen writes of them2 they drink so immodestly and immoderately at their ,banquets that they cannot pour their beer #be in fast enough with the ordinary ,quaffing ,cups1 but drink in large ,tankards whole draughts1 none to be left under severe penalties2 admiring him that will drink most1 and hating him that will not pledge them40 ,i once1 in my salad days1 assisted in the attempt to make a ,german 8foxed40 ,there were some half a dozen of us1 nice boys all1 and we entertained this ,teuton right royally4 ,at the banquet table the champagne was decanted1 and it was so arranged that our guest should imbibe at least twice as much as anybody else4 ,then we took him around the great city4 ,at four the next morning the ,german sat facing me in the smoking-room of a little social club4 ,everybody else had gone home1 more or less limp1 or had come to anchor in some police-station4 ,and ,i did not feel very well myself4 ,and as the clock chimed four1 and the grey dawn stole in through the venetians in streaks1 that ,german uprose in all his majesty--he was six feet five inches and broad in proportion--smote me hard on the back1 and enquired1 in cheerful tones3 8,now then6 ,vhere can ve go to haf some fun80 ,we never 8took on0 any more of the children of the ,fatherland4 ,the ,russians1 ,swedes1 ,danes1 and other ,northerners--also during the seventeenth century--we read1 8exceed all the rest1 having made the drinking of ,brandy1 ,aqua ,vitae1 ,hydromel1 ,beer1 ,mum1 ,meth1 and other liquors in great quantities1 so familiar to them that they usually drink our countrymen to death40 8,the ,mahometans10 the same writer tells us1 #bf 8which possess a great part of the world1 on a superstitious account forbear the drinking of much wine2 because that a young and beautiful woman being accosted by two angels1 that had intoxicated themselves with it0--an intoxicated angel surely takes the cake8--8taking the advantage of their ebriety1 made her escape1 and was for her beauty and wit prefer'd in ,heaven1 and the angels severely punished for their folly2 for which reason they are commanded not to drink wine4 ,yet many of them1 doubting of the divinity of that relation1 do transgress that command1 and liberally drink of the blood of the grape1 which the ,christians prepare out of their own vineyards2 palliating their crime1 in that they did not plant the tree1 nor make the wine40 ,for the philosophy of the ,mahomedan is like the ways of the ,heathen ,chinee1 8peculiar40 8,the ,chineses10 we are further told1 8are the least addicted to ebriety1 delighting themselves in ,coffee1 ,tea1 and such like drinks1 free from those stupifying qualities2 yet are they not without their carouses2 and those of the intoxicating drinks prepared of ,rice1 ,coco's1 ,sugar1 ,dates1 etc41 equalling in strength and spirit any liquors in the world40 ,with the 8,chineses0 must be of course included the gallant little ,japaneses1 with which nation ,english chroniclers had but a slight acquaintance three hundred years ago4 ,without enquiring too closely into the nature of ,red ,falernian1 ,coan1 ,massic1 or any of the ,roman vintages at the time of dear old ,horatius ,flaccus1 let us take a glance over the wine-lists #bg of our own country1 from the ,saxon period4 ,and the first thing which will naturally strike the observer is the heavy1 loaded nature of their dinner drinks4 ,a little later on1 ,sack did duty for the 8inferior sherry0 of the ,victorian era1 although a ,sack-and-,angostura was not a frequent demand amongst the young bloods of the period4 ,on the festive boards of the ,saxons appeared1 besides ale of the strongest and cider of the roughest1 home-made wines1 mead1 morat1 metheglin1 and more or less odoriferous pigments4 ,in case any enterprising ratepayer should elect to give his guests ,mead1 at his next house-warming1 here is the ancient recipe4 ,take of spring-water what quantity you please1 and make it more than blood-warm1 and dissolve honey in it till 'tis strong enough to bear an egg1 the breadth of a shilling2 then boil it gently near an hour1 taking of the scum as it rises2 then put to about nine or ten gallons seven or eight large blades of mace1 three nutmegs quartered1 twenty cloves1 three or four sticks of cinnamon1 two or three roots of ginger1 and a quarter of an ounce of ,jamaica pepper2 put these spices into the kettle to the honey and water1 a whole lemon1 with a sprig of sweet-briar and a sprig of rosemary2 tie the briar and rosemary together1 and when they have boiled a little while take them out and throw them away2 but let your liquor stand on the spice in a clean earthen pot till the next day2 then strain it into a vessel that is fit for it2 put the spice in a bag1 and hang it in the vessel1 stop it1 and at three months #bh draw it into bottles4 ,be sure that 'tis fine when 'tis bottled2 after 'tis bottled six weeks 'tis fit to drink4 ,fancy drinking ,mead with your soup6 ,morat was made of honey flavoured with mulberry juice2 and ,pigment--which might be drunk at the ,royal ,academy banquets--was a sweet and rich liquor evolved from highly-spiced wine flavoured with honey4 ,metheglin was also called ,hydromel and ,oinomel4 8,the best ,receipt whereof10 writes an authority1 8that ,i have observed to be made by them is thus3-- ,they take rasberries which grow in those parts 7i4e4 ,swedeland1 ,muscovia1 ,russia1 and as far as the ,caspian ,sea7 and put them into fair water for two or three nights 7,i suppose they bruise them first7 that the water may extract their taste and colour4 ,into this water they put of the purest honey1 in proportion about one pound of honey to three or four of water4 ,then to give it a fermentation they put a tost into it dipp'd in the dregs or grounds of beer1 which when it hath set the metheglin at work they take out again1 to prevent any ill savour it may give2 if they desire to ferment it long they set it in a warm place2 which when they please to hinder or stop1 they remove it into a cool place2 after it hath done fermenting they draw it off the lee for present use2 to add to its excellency they hang in it a little bagg1 wherein is cinnamon1 grains of paradise1 and a few cloves4 ,this may do very well for present drinking4 ,but if you would make your metheglin of the same ingredients1 and to be kept 7time #bi meliorating any sort of drinks7 you may preserve your juice of rasberries at the proper season4 ,and when you make your metheglin1 decoct your honey and water together1 and when it is cold then add your juice of rasberries which was before prepared to keep1 and purifie your metheglin by the means before prescrib'd1 or ferment it1 either by a tost dipp'd in yest1 or by putting a spoonful of yest unto it1 to which you may add the little bagg of spices before mention'd4 ,then let it stand about a month to be thorowly purified1 and then bottle it1 and preserve it for use1 and it may in time become a curious drink40 ,i should think so4 ,this is what ,howell 7,clerk to the ,privy ,council in #afdj7 wrote about metheglin3-- ,the juice of ,bees1 not ,bacchus1 here behold1 ,which ,british ,bards were wont to quaff of old2 ,the berries of the grape with ,furies swell1 ,but in the honeycomb the ,graces dwell4 8,neither ,sir ,john ,barleycorn or ,bacchus had anything to do with it1 but it is the pure juice of the bee1 the laborious bee1 and the king of insects2 the ,druids and old ,british ,bards were wont to take a carouse hereof before they entered into their speculations4 ,but this drink always carried a kind of state with it1 for it must be attended with a brown toast2 nor will it admit but of one good draught1 and that in the morning2 if more it will keep a humming in the head1 and so speak too much of the house it comes from1 ,i mean the hive40 ,m'yes4 ,i question the advisability of any sort #cj of carouse before entering into speculations2 more especially if ,tattersall's ,ring be the scene of your speculations1 and you intend getting back your losses4 ,there is no doubt that metheglin was the favourite drink of the ,ancient ,britons4 ,mead and ,braggon1 or ,braggonet1 do not differ materially from metheglin4 ,here is the recipe3-- ,mix the whites of six eggs with twelve gallons of spring-water2 add twenty pounds of the best virgin honey and the peeling of three lemons2 boil it an hour1 and then put into it some rosemary1 cloves1 mace1 and ginger2 when quite cold add a spoonful or two of yeast1 tun it1 and when it has done working stop it up close4 ,in a few months bottle it off1 and deposit in a cool cellar4 ,if this liquor is properly kept1 the taste of the honey will go off2 and it will resemble ,tokay both in strength and flavour4 ,and the chief objection to this as to other ancient potations1 appears to be the intolerable quantity of water1 whether 8spring0 or 8fair40 ,we do not make ,birch wine nowadays1 although the ,birch itself frequently makes small boys whine1 after conviction of orchard-robbing1 or train-wrecking4 ,but it was a favourite tipple with our ancestors1 who during the month of ,march were wont to cut the ends off the birch-boughs1 and let the sap drip into bottles suspended from the boughs4 ,for twopence or threepence a gallon the villagers would catch this sap for #ca their wealthier neighbours1 regardless of the feelings1 and the cartridges1 of the owners of the trees4 ,to every gallon of liquor was added a pound of refined sugar1 the mixture being boiled for half an hour or so1 then set to cool1 with a little yeast added thereto1 to make it ferment4 ,the result was then put in barrels1 together with a small proportion of powdered mace and cinnamon4 ,a month afterwards it was bottled off1 and when drunk was said to be 8a most delicate1 brisk wine1 of a flavour like unto ,rhenish40 8,the ,vertues of the ,liquor or ,blood of the ,birch-tree10 says the historian1 8have not long been discovered1 we being beholding to the ,learned ,van ,helmont for it2 who in his ,treatise of the ,disease of the ,stone hath very much applauded its ,vertues against the effects of the ,disease1 calling the natural ,liquor that flows from the wounded ,branches of the ,tree1 the meer ,balsom of the ,disease4 ,ale brewed therewith1 as well as the ,wine that is made of it1 wonderfully operates on the ,disease4 ,it is also reputed to be a powerful ,curer of the ,ptisick40 ,all the same you will hardly get the alumni of ,eton and ,harrow to love their birch4 8,what was ,sack80 is a question which has often been asked4 ,it was a common name for a drink in the time of ,shakespeare1 and ,falstaff had a terrible reputation as a sackster4 ,the exact nature of the wine is uncertain1 but the name is supposed to be derived #cb from the ,spanish seco1 and the ,french sec1 8dry40 ,canary 7a sort of white ,madeira7 was often the wine meant2 and in old churchwarden's accounts the word sack frequently occurs1 as used as a communion wine1 i4e4 ,madeira and port mixed4 ,that sack was imported from ,spain is certain1 and it was first of all sold1 in ,england1 in apothecaries' shops1 as a cordial medicine4 ,the ,excise authorities of the time1 if there were any1 were in all probability not quite as busy as at the present day4 ,the name ,canary was formerly applied to dry1 white wines1 which were frequently seasoned with sugar1 cinnamon1 nutmeg1 roasted apples1 and eggs4 ,sack ,posset ,sir ,walter ,raleigh's ,recipe4 ,boil together half a pint of sherry and half a pint of ale1 and add gradually a quart of boiling cream or milk4 ,sweeten the mixture well1 and flavour with grated nutmeg4 ,put into a heated dish1 cover1 and stand by the fire for two or three hours4 ,and if you can see the double ox-fences in ,northamptonshire next morning1 there is not much the matter with your liver4 ,here is the method of manufacturing ,english ,sack1 which must be a poor1 ill-favoured sort of drink4 ,it was also known as ,saragossa wine4 ,to every quart of water put a sprig of rue1 and to every gallon a handful of fennel-roots1 boil these #cc half an hour1 then strain it out1 and to every gallon of this liquor--ugh--put three pounds of honey2 boil it two hours1 and scum it well1 and when 'tis cold pour it off and tun it into a vessel1 or such cask as is fit for it2 keep it a year in the vessel1 and then bottle it4 ',tis a very good sack4 ,and the butler who would place this on my table would get a good sack1 too4 ,mustard-and-water is cheaper and swifter4 ,canary and ,rhenish were also drunk freely during the ,elizabethan period--the ,english ,sack recipe belongs to the ,charles ,i4 period--and long before that usquebaugh1 or whisky in all its original sin1 was in demand1 although the ,highlanders were no dabs at distillation until the sixteenth century4 ,usquebaugh1 by the way1 is derived from the old ,gaelic ,uisge-beatha1 8,water of ,life10 and under this name both ,irish and ,scotch whisky were originally known4 ,but this simple water of life was not tasty enough for some palates1 therefore vile men invented a special blend for the benefit of the wealthy1 and those who had not much work to do next morning4 ,to make ,usquebaugh4 ,to three gallons of brandy put four ounces of aniseeds bruised2 the next day distil it in a cold still pasted up2 then scrape four ounces of licorice1 and pound it in a mortar1 dry it in an iron pan1 do not burn it1 put it in the bottle to your distill'd water1 and let it stand ten days4 ,then take out the licorice1 and to every six quarts of the spirits #cd put in cloves1 mace1 nutmeg1 cinnamon and ginger1 of each a quarter of an ounce1 dates stoned and sliced four ounces2 raisins stoned half a pound4 ,let these infuse ten days1 then strain it out1 and tincture it with saffron1 and bottle it and cork it well4 ,it seems just the sort for ,jubilee rejoicings and vestry meetings2 but do not give it to the constable on fixed point duty4 ,in my pitiable ignorance1 ,i once thought that ,clary was the old ,english name for ,claret4 ,not a bit of it4 ,this is how the artistic used to make ,clary ,wine4 ,take twenty-four pounds of ,malaga raisins1 pick and chop them very small1 put them in a tub1 and to each pound a quart of water2 let them steep ten or eleven days--this sounds like a school treat--stirring it twice every day2 you must keep it covered close all the while2 then strain it off1 and put it into a vessel1 and about half a peck of the tops of clary 7what was clary87 when 'tis in blossom2 stop it close for six weeks1 and then bottle it off2 in two or three months 'tis fit to drink4 ,clary naturally leads to ,apricock ,wine1 which we of the nineteenth century miscall apricot4 ,the derivation of the word is ,latin4 ,then the ,arabs got hold of it1 and it became ,al-precoc4 ,then the thriving ,spaniards got hold of the word1 which became ,alborcoque2 and so to ,england4 ,but to the wine4 #ce ,take three pounds of sugar1 and three quarts of water1 let them boil together1 and scum it well2 then put in six pounds of apricocks1 pared and stoned1 and let them boil till they are tender2 then take them up1 and when the liquor is cold bottle it up4 ,you may1 if you please1 after you have taken out the apricocks1 let the liquor have one boil with a sprig of flower'd clary in it4 ,also1 you may if you please--and you probably will please--add a little old brandy to the decoction4 #cf ,,chapter ,,iv ,,some ,,old ,,recipes ,indifference of the ,chineses -- ,a nasty potion -- ,a nastier -- ,white ,bastard -- ,helping it to be eager -- ,improving ,malmsey -- ,death of the ,duke of ,clarence -- ,mum is not the word -- ,english champagne -- ,life without ,ebulum a blank -- ,cock ale -- ,how to dispose of surplus poultry -- ,painful fate of a pauper -- ,potage pauvre -- ,duties of the old ,english housewife -- ,election of wines1 not golf -- ,muskadine -- ,lemon wine -- ,familiar recipe -- ,king ,william's posset -- ,pope's ditto4 8,the ,chineses10 says a very old work on liquid nourishment1 8make excellent ,drink of ,rice1 which is very pleasant of taste1 and is preferred by them before wine40 ,but1 like the ,germans1 the ,chineses will eat and drink pretty nearly anything4 ,and this is the cheering mixture which the ,chineses sampled in the new ,german colony of ,kiant-schan1 according to the ,frankfurter ,zeitung3-- 8,sitting under the poplars one can imagine oneself in the courtyard of an old ,german feudal castle4 ,the hamper is opened1 and the cold mountain stream flowing before the temple serves as an ice cellar4 ,once more the male population of the village puts in an appearance1 standing #cg round the table in amazement at all the unheard-of things happening4 ,the greatest success attends the uncorking of the ,apollinaris bottles4 ,the bottle is pointed at the onlookers1 and the cork having been loosened it flies into their faces with a loud report4 ,at first they are greatly alarmed1 then they enjoy the joke hugely1 and at last they all squat on the ground in a circle1 and send a deputy to the table of the foreigners1 bearing a teacup4 ,the petition is granted1 and in the teacup an exquisite brew is prepared4 ,the drainings of all the beer bottles are collected1 to which is added a little claret and a liberal proportion of ,apollinaris1 and then1 in order to lend greater consistency to the beverage1 some sausage skins are mixed with it4 ,the teacup circulates amongst the ,chinese1 and each sips it with reverential awe4 ,some of them make fearful grimaces1 but not one has the courage of his opinion1 and it is evident that1 on the whole1 the drink is voted a good one1 although1 perhaps1 its flavour is somewhat rare40 ,next1 please4 ,oh1 here is another1 about some neighbours of the ,chineses4 8,in the ,isle ,formosa1 not far from ,china1 the ,natives make a ,drink as strong and intoxicative as ,sack1 out of ,rice1 which they soak in warm water1 and then beat it to a paste in a ,mortar2 then they chew some ,rice-meal in their mouths1 which they spit to a pot till they have got about a quart of liquor1 which they put to the paste instead of ,leaven or ,ferment4 ,and after all be kneaded together till it be ,dough1 they put it into a great earthen pot1 which they #ch fill up with water1 and so let it remain for two months2 by which means they make one of the most pleasant ,liquors a man need drink2 the older the better and sweeter1 although you keep it five and twenty or thirty years40 ,weel--,i hae ma doots4 ,until reading 8,the ,english ,housewife1 containing the inward and outward ,vertues which ought to be in a complete ,woman1 published by ,nicholas ,okes at the sign of the golden ,unicorne1 in #afca10 ,i had no skill in making ,white ,bastard or 8aparelling0 ,muskadine4 ,they used a lot of eggs in the vintry in those days1 and these were the instructions for making white bastard4 ,draw out of a pipe of bastard ten gallans1 and put to it five gallans of new milke1 and skim it as before1 and all to beat it with a parill of eight whites of egges1 and a handfull of ,baysalt and a pint of conduit-water1 and it will be white and fine in the morning4 ,but if you will make very fine bastard--which ,i1 personally1 have no ambition to do--take a white-wine hog's-head1 and put out the lees1 and wash it cleane1 and fill it halfe full and halfe a quarter1 and put to it foure gallans of new milke1 and beate it well with the whites of sixe egges1 and fill it up with white-wine and sacke1 and it will be white and fine4 ,bastard had not much rest in the seventeenth century4 ,the housewife who might wish 8to helpe bastard being eager0 had to follow these directions3-- ,take two gallons of the best stoned honey1 and #ci two gallons of white wine1 and boyle them in a faire panne1 skimme it cleane1 and straine it through a faire cloth that there be no moats in it2 then put to it one ounce of collianders 7coriander seeds87 and one ounce of aniseeds1 foure or five orange pils 7pips87 dry and beaten to powder1 let them lye three dayes2 then draw your bastard into a cleane pipe1 then put in your honey with the rest1 and beate it well2 then let it lye a weeke and touch it not1 after draw it at pleasure4 ,in the present enlightened century such a recipe does not read like helping the possible consumer to be 8eager40 ,nor does the following method of treating ,malmsey sound promising1 except for making its consumer particularly 8for'ard03-- ,if you have a good but of ,malmsey1 and a but or two of sacke that will not be drunke2 for the sacke prepare some empty but or pipe1 and draw it more than halfe full of sacke2 then fill it up with ,malmsey1 and when your but is full within a little1 put into it three gallons of ,spanish cute1 the best that you can get--where did they get it8--then beate it well2 then take your taster1 and see that it bee deepe coloured2 then fill it up with sacke1 and give it aparell1 and beate it well4 ,the aparell is thus3 ,take the yelkes of tenne egges and beate them in a cleane bason with a handful of ,bay salt1 and a quarte of conduit-water1 and beate them together with a little peece of birch1 and beate it till it be as short as mosse2 then draw five or sixe gallons out of your but1 then beate it againe1 and then fill it up1 and the next day it will be ready to be drawne4 ,this aparell will serve both for muscadine1 bastard1 and for sacke4 #dj ,we are not told in history if the butt of ,malmsey in which the ,duke of ,clarence shuffled off his mortal and sinful coil had been previously subjected to this 8aparell0 and castigation4 ,in the interests of mercy1 let us hope not4 ,the fluid once known as ,mum never claimed any sort of relationship with sparkling wine1 but was a species of unsophisticated ale1 brewed from wheat1 or oats1 with a little bean-meal occasionally introduced2 in fact1 the sort of stuff we use in the present century to fatten bacon pigs upon4 ,and 8mum0 has not been the word with ,british brewers for some time past4 ,champagne has been made in ,england for a considerable period2 but since the closing of the 8night-houses0 in ,panton ,street the trade therein has not been very brisk4 ,during the present century champagne in this country--and ,i grieve to add in ,france as well--has been chiefly fabricated from apples1 and other fruits2 but here is a much older way of making ,english ,champagne4 ,take to three gallons of water nine pounds of ,lisbon sugar2 boil the water and sugar half an hour1 scum it clean1 then have one gallon of currants pick'd1 but not bruis'd1 pour the liquor boiling hot over them1 and when cold work it with half a pint of balm two days2 then pour it through a flannel or sieve1 then put it into a barrel fit for it with half an ounce of ising-glass well bruis'd4 ,when it has done working stop it close for a month1 then bottle #da it1 and in every bottle put a very small lump of double-refin'd sugar4 ,this is excellent wine1 and has a beautiful colour4 8,life without ,ebulum10 writes a friend1 an instructor of youth in the ingenuous arts1 in forwarding me the recipe1 8is a void to most people who have not cultivated the eringo root in their back gardens40 ,i have never tasted ebulum1 preferring my ale neat and unadorned1 but this is how to prepare ,ebulum4 ,to a hogshead of strong ale take a heap'd bushel of elderberries1 and half a pound of juniper berries beaten2 put in all the berries when you put in the hops1 and let them boil together till the berries break in pieces2 then work it up as you do ale4 ,when it has done working1 add to it half a pound of ginger1 half an ounce of cloves1 as much mace1 an ounce of nutmegs1 and as much cinnamon grosly beaten1 half a pound of citron1 as much eringo root1 and likewise of candied orange-peel4 ,let the sweetmeats be cut in pieces very thin1 and put with the spice into a bag1 and hang it in the vessel when you stop it up4 ,so let it stand till 'tis fine1 then bottle it up1 and drink it with lumps of double-refin'd sugar in the glass4 ,one of the quaintest beverages of which ,i ever heard1 or read1 is ,cock ,ale4 ,in order to make this1 the ,compleat ,housewyfe instructs us to take ten gallons of ale1 and a large #db cock1 the older the better4 ,parboil the cock1 flea 7flay87 him1 and stamp him in a stone mortar till his bones are broken 7you must craw and gut him when you flea him71 then put the cock into two quarts of sack1 and put to it three pounds of raisins of the sun stoned1 some blades of mace1 and a few cloves2 put all these into a canvas bag1 and a little before you find the ale has done working1 put the ale and bag together into a vessel2 in a week or nine days bottle it up1 fill the bottles but just above the neck1 and give it the same time to ripen as other ale4 ,i have frequently read of the giving of 8body0 to ale and stout1 by means of the introduction of horseflesh2 and an old song used to tell us that upon one of the paupers in a certain workhouse happening1 inadvertently1 to fall head-foremost into the copper1 dreadful to tell1 he was boiled in the soup1 which1 on that account1 in all probability so strengthened the constitutions of the other paupers as to render them impatient of workhouse discipline4 ,the man who disappeared mysteriously--this is ,mr4 ,samuel ,weller's story--and who unwittingly furnished 8body0 for the sausages supplied to the neighbourhood1 was1 after all1 benefiting his fellow-men4 ,but to put the rooster into the ale-cask smacks somewhat of barbarism2 and thank goodness we do not work off our surplus poultry in that fashion nowadays4 ,but these barbarians were not ashamed2 for lo6 facing me is 8another way0 for the manufacture of rooster-beer4 ,take an old red1 or other cock1 and boyle him #dc indifferent well2 then flea his skin clean off1 and beat him flesh and bones in a stone mortar all to mash1 then slice into him half a pound of dates1 two nutmegs quartered1 two or three blaids of mace1 four cloves2 and put to all this two quarts of sack that is very good2 stop all this up very close that no air may get to it for the space of sixteen hours2 then tun eight gallons of strong ale into your barrel so timely as it may have done working at the sixteen hours' end2 and then put thereinto your infusion and stop it close for five days1 then bottle it in stone bottles2 be sure your corks are very good1 and tye them with pack-thread2 and about a fortnight or three weeks after you may begin to drink of it2 you must also put into your infusion two pound of raisins of the sun stoned4 ,holy ,moses6 ,what a drink6 8,it is necessary10 wrote a chronicler of the day1 8that our ,english ,housewife be skilfull in the election1 preservation1 and curing of all sorts of wines1 because they be usuall charges under her hands1 and by the least neglect must turne the ,husband to much losse40 ,this was written1 ,i may interpolate1 before the bicycle craze had set in1 and before the era of ladies' clubs4 ,fancy asking the ,new ,woman to elect1 preserve1 and cure all sorts of wines6 8,therefore10 continues the same writer1 8to speak first of the election of sweete ,wines she must be careful that her ,malmseys be full ,wines1 pleasant1 well hewed1 and fine2 that ,bastard be fat1 and if it be tawny it skils not1 for the tawny ,bastards be always the sweetest4 ,muskadine must be great1 pleasant1 and strong1 with a swete #dd sent1 and ,amber colour4 ,sacke1 if it be ,seres 7,xerez871 which it should be1 you shall know it by the marke of a corke burned on one side of the bung1 and they be ever full gadge1 and so are no other ,sackes2 and the longer they lye the better they be40 ,muskadine was1 apparently1 made from bastard and malmsey1 with the addition of ginger and new milk 7with the cream removed74 ,here is a potion bearing the harmless1 ,band-of-,hopish name of ,lemon ,wine1 which would not1 however1 be tolerated at a ,salvation ,army banquet4 ,the first part of the recipe will be familiar to many of my young friends4 ,take six large lemons1 pare off the rind1 and cut the lemons and squeeze out the juice1 and in the juice steep the rind1 and put it to a quart of brandy--so far1 brother1 the court is with you--and let it stand in an earthen pot close stop't three days1 and then squeeze six more1 and mix with two quarts of spring-water1 and as much sugar as will sweeten the whole1 and boil the water and lemons and sugar together1 and let it stand till 'tis cool4 ,then add a quart of white wine and the other lemon and brandy1 and mix them together1 and run it through a flannel bag into some vessel4 ,let it stand three months and bottle it off4 ,cork your bottles very well1 and keep it cool2 it will be fit to drink in a month or six weeks4 #de ,cheer-oh6 ,this potion reads well1 and ,i know a punch which bears some resemblance thereto4 ,but why call it lemon wine8 ,do not the brandy and the white wine deserve some recognition in the nomenclature8 ,what is understood by the name ,barley ,wine nowadays is a particularly strong brew of ale4 ,with the ancients1 however1 it was a drink which might have been with safety handed round at breaking-up parties in a young ladies' school4 ,take half a pound of ,french barley1 and boil it in three waters1 and save three pints of the last water1 and mix it with a quart of white wine1 half a pint of borage-water1 as much clary-water1 and a little red rose-water1 the juice of five or six lemons1 three quarters of a pound of fine sugar1 and the thin yellow rind of a lemon2 brew all these quick together1 run it through a strainer1 and bottle it up4 ',tis pleasant in hot weather1 and very good in fevers4 ,in the matter of possets--of which more anon--the following reads like a seductive winter's beverage1 especially if the imbiber have a cold in the head4 ,fear not the bile1 but read the directions for making ,king ,william's ,posset4 ,take a quart of cream1 and mix with it a pint of ale1 then beat the yolks of ten eggs and the whites of four2 when they are well beaten1 put them to #df your cream and ale4 ,sweeten to your taste and slice some nutmeg in it2 set it over the fire1 and keep it stirring all the while1 and when 'tis thick1 and before it boils1 take it off1 and pour it into the bason you serve it in to the table4 ,here is another1 even more seductive4 ,to make the ,pope's ,posset4 ,blanch and beat three-quarters of a pound of almonds so fine that they will spread between your fingers like butter1 put in water as you beat them to keep them from oiling4 ,then take a pint of sack or sherry1 and sweeten it very well in double-refin'd sugar1 make it boiling hot1 and at the same time put half a pint of water to your almonds1 and make them boil2 then take both off the fire1 and mix them very well together with a spoon4 ,serve it in a china dish4 ,frontiniac ,wine was simplicity itself4 ,take six gallons of water and twelve pounds of white sugar1 and six pounds of raisins of the sun cut small2 boil them together one hour2 then take of the flowers of elder1 when they are falling and will shake off1 the quantity of half a peck2 put them in the liquor when 'tis almost cold1 and next day put in six spoonfuls of syrup of lemons1 and four spoonfuls of ale yeast2 and two days after put it into a vessel that is fit for it1 and when it has stood two months bottle it off4 ,in the olden times1 just before ,oliver ,cromwell was a going concern1 there were two sorts of what was then called #dg ,renish ,wine1 that is to say1 ,elstertune and ,barabant4 8,the ,elstertune10 says my informant1 8are best1 you shall know it by the ,fat1 for it is double bard and double pinned0--,i have not the faintest idea what he means1 but those are his words2 8the ,barabant is nothing so good1 and there is not so much good to be done with them as with the other4 ,if the ,wines be good and pleasant1 a man may rid away a ,hogshead or two of ,white wine1 and this is the most vantage a man can have by them2 and if it be slender and hard1 then take three or four gallons of stone-honey and clarify it cleane2 then put into the honey four or five gallons of the same wine1 and then let it seeth a great while1 and put into it twopence in cloves bruised1 let them seeth together1 for it will take away the sent of honey2 and when it is sodden take it off1 and set it by till it be thorow cold2 then take foure gallons of milke and order it as before1 and then put all into your wine1 and all to beate it2 and 7if you can7 role it1 for that is the best way2 then stop it close and let it lie1 and that will make it pleasant40 ,possibly1 but it seems a deal of trouble to take over a wine4 ,and now let us adjourn to a more familiar subject1 for discussion in the next chapter4 #dh ,,chapter ,v ,,glorious ,,beer ,nectar on ,olympus -- ,beer and the ,bible -- 8,ninepenny0 at ,eton -- 8,number ,one0 ,bass -- 8,the wicked weed called hops0 -- ,all is not beer that's bitter -- ,pathetic story of 8,poor ,richard0 -- ,secrets of brewing -- ,gervase ,markham -- ,an 8espen0 full of hops -- ,eggs in ale -- ,beer soup -- ,the wassail bowl -- ,sir ,watkin ,wynne -- ,brown ,betty -- ,rumfustian -- ,mother-in-law -- ,a delightful summer drink -- ,brasenose ale4 ,as much poetry has been written in praise of ,john ,barleycorn as in praise of wine1 woman1 battles1 heroes1 ,cupid's darts1 and patent medicines4 ,and one dear old song1 which seems to ring in my ears as ,i write1 proclaimed that in the opinion of the author the nectar which the gods imbibed from golden goblets on the top of ,mount ,olympus was in reality cool1 refreshing pale ale1 quaffed out of pewter tankards4 ,whether this was so matters not1 but as to the antiquity of beer as a beverage there can be no question2 and however much the demand for other liquors may have slackened during the rolling on of time1 ,john ,barleycorn is still growing in public estimation4 ,breweries keep on #di springing up all over the country1 and those who purchase shares in them receive1 for the most part1 substantial dividends4 8,beer and the ,bible0 have won more elections than any other combination2 the organization of the brewers has hitherto proved powerful enough to withstand all the slings and arrows of the ,prohibition party1 whilst there has been an enormous increase in the value of houses licensed to sell fermented refreshment2 and the name of ,bass will 8live on10 like ,claudian1 8through the centuries40 ,there be more than one description of beer put before the public4 ,i forget at this moment who was responsible for the 8swipes0 of my school days1 which tasted like red ink--and ,i have sampled both--but ,i have always believed that the manufacturer--,i do not believe him to have been a brewer at all--had a special spite against the rising generation1 which he wished to die a lingering death4 ,the 8ninepenny0 quaffed beneath the holy shade of ,henry was good1 sound1 wholesome tipple2 but ,i fancy an inferior brand was poured forth to us at 8half time0 in the football field4 ,since those days ,i have tasted pretty nearly all sorts and conditions of beer1 from the 8,number ,one0 ,bass drawn from the wood in pewter pots1 in a little hostelry just off the ,waterloo ,road--the very best according to my taste--to the awful stuff tasted1 and only tasted1 one ,sunday in a charmingly rural-looking little inn1 with a thatched roof--a licensed house which apparently laid itself out to entrap the daring and enterprising 8bona fide traveller10 and whose malt liquor was apparently composed for #ej the most part of vinegar and dirty water1 in which had been soaked quassia chips1 salt1 bloater-heads1 and some of the thatch from the roof4 ,beer was the current name in ,england for every description of malt liquor before the introduction of 8the wicked weed called hops0 from the ,netherlands in #aebd4 ,according to the ,alvismal1 a didactic ,scandinavian poem of the tenth century1 this malt liquor was called ale amongst men1 and beer by the gods2 and it was probably from this ,scandinavian poem that the author of the anything-but-didactic poem quoted above got his ideas as to the real nature of the beverage partaken of on ,olympus4 ,in the ,eastern counties of ,england1 and over the greater part of the kingdom1 ale signifies strong1 and beer small1 malt liquor1 but in the ,west these names mean exactly the reverse--which must be confusing in the extreme to the intelligent foreigner on his travels in search of facts and--refreshment4 ,as now used1 ale is distinguished from beer--,i am alluding to the more civilized parts of our country--chiefly by its strength1 and by the quantity of sugar remaining in it undecomposed4 ,strong ale is made from the best pale malt1 and the fermentation is allowed to proceed slowly1 and the ferment to be exhausted and separated4 ,this1 together with the large quantity of sugar still left undecomposed1 enables the liquor to keep long1 without requiring a large amount of hops4 ,the last few lines may give the reader the impression that the writer served his time in ,burton-on-,trent2 but this is not the case4 ,i #ea have conveyed the bulk of my technical knowledge of brewing from standard works on the subject4 ,it will be gathered from some previous remarks that all is not beer that's bitter2 and although it would seem impossible to find a cleaner1 healthier1 or more strengthening drink than the 8pure beer0 of commerce1 brewed from good ,english or ,scotch barley1 ,kentish hops1 and fair spring-water1 how about the wash sold in some licensed houses which is 8fetched up0 with foot-sugar1 bittered with quassia1 and mixed with salt and any nasty flavourer which is handy8 ,the old stories about the carcass of a horse placed in the ,london stout1 to give it 8body10 and the mysterious disappearance of an ,italian organ-grinder1 together with his monkey and infernal machine1 just outside a high-class brewery1 are probably apocryphal4 ,and although the ancients undoubtedly put a red cock--the older the better--into ale1 on occasion1 the nineteenth century ,briton1 for the most part1 if the rooster be too tough to serve as a boiled bonne bouche with parsley-and-butter1 usually makes ,cock-a-,leekie of him4 ,and thereby hangs a tale4 ,when my firm was running a small chicken-ranche we once reared an unfortunate fowl1 who had curvature of the spine1 almost from the fracture of his shell4 ,he was a weakling1 and his brethren and sistren1 after the manner of birds1 beasts1 and fishes1 who 8go for0 the anmic and infirm1 persecuted him exceedingly1 and peeked most of his feathers off4 ,being a #eb merciful1 and withal a thrifty1 poultry-farmer1 ,i looked out an old parrot's cage from the tool-shed1 and in this cage installed the weakly cockerel4 ,he was forthwith christened 8,poor ,richard10 and given little ,benjamin's share of the corn and wine1 and cayenne pepper and--other things4 ,and although his head was still slewed round to starboard1 he thrived under his liberal nourishment and freedom from the assaults of his relatives4 ,time flew on4 ,i had been the 8,northern ,circuit10 in the pursuit of my then profession of reporter of the sport of kings4 ,i returned home late on a ,saturday night1 and next day we had friends to dinner4 ,so much ,north ,country language1 and so much travelling about had quite put our feathered and afflicted pensioner out of my head2 and even the fact of our having the favourite broth of ,his ,majesty ,king ,james the ,first for dinner did not suggest anything to my busy brain4 ,but afterwards1 when we were alone--she ought not to have done it--my life-partner confided to me that ,i had helped to eat 8,poor ,richard06 ,and ,i felt like a very cannibal2 and mourned the bird as a brother4 ,but to return4 ,in ,queen ,elizabeth's reign it was1 ,i used to believe1 a capital offence to put hops into beer4 ,but these are the directions for ,brewing of ,strong ,ale1 issued by one ,gervase ,markham1 an authority on the subject1 and a contemporary of ,shakespeare2 and in these directions 8hops0 are distinctly mentioned as one of the component parts of the brew4 #ec ,now for the brewing of strong ,ale1 because it is drinke of no such long lasting as ,beere is1 therefore you shall brew lesse quantity at a time thereof1 as two bushels of ,northerne measure 7which is foure bushels or halfe a quarter in the ,south7 at a brewing1 and not above1 which will make foureteene gallons of the best ,ale4 ,now for the mashing and ordering of it in the mash-fat1 it will not differ any thing from that of ,beere2 as for hops1 although some use not to put in any1 yet the best ,brewers thereof will allow to foureteene gallons of ,ale a good espen full of hops1 and no more1 yet before you put in your hops1 as soone as you take it from the graines1 you shall put it into a vessell1 and change it1 or blinke it in this manner3 ,put into the ,wort a handfull of ,oke-bowes and a pewter dish1 and let them lye therein till the ,wort looke a little paler than it did at the first1 and then presently take out the dish and the leafe1 and then boile it a full houre with the hops1 as aforesayd1 and then clense it1 and set it in vessels to cook2 when it is milk-warme1 having set your ,barme to rise with some sweete ,wort2 then put all into the guilfat1 and as soone as it riseth1 with a dishe or bowle beate it in1 and so keepe it with continuall beating a day and a night1 and after run it4 ,from this ,ale you may also draw halfe so much very good middle ,ale1 and a third part very good small ,ale4 ,another way ,to make ,strong ,beer was published at a later date than the above1 and to my thinking is not a better way4 ,to a barrel of beer take two bushels of malt and half a bushel of wheat just crackt in the mill1 and some of the flour lifted out of it2 when your #ed water is scalding hot1 put it in your mashing-fat2 there let it stand till you can see your face in it2 then put your malt upon it1 then put your wheat upon that1 and do not stir it2 let it stand two hours and a half2 then let it run into a tub that has two pounds of hops in it1 and a handful of rosemary flowers1 and when 'tis all run put it in your copper and boil it two hours2 then strain it off1 setting it a-cooling very thin1 and set it a-working very cool2 clear it very well before you put it a-working1 put a little yeast to it2 when the yeast begins to fall1 put it into your vessel1 and when it has done working in the vessel1 put in a pint of whole wheat and six eggs2 then stop it up1 let it stand a year1 and then bottle it4 ,then mash again1 stir the malt very well in1 and let it stand two hours1 and let that run1 and mash again1 and stir it as before2 be sure you cover your mashing-fat well up1 mix the first and second running together2 it will make good household beer4 ,i rather fancy the blending of a lot of eggs 7presumably new-laid7 with the mash1 would 8break0 some of the smaller brewers4 ,it could hardly be done at the price4 ,the ,germans make ,beer ,soup4 ,whether this is made from ,british or lager beer is not stated in the recipe before me1 which hardly reads suited to the ordinary ,english palate4 ,i will now give a few modern recipes for tasty beer-compounds4 #ee ,ale ,cup 7,cold74 ,squeeze the juice of a lemon into a round of hot toast2 lay on it a thin piece of the rind1 a tablespoonful of powdered sugar1 a little grated nutmeg or powdered all-spice1 and a sprig of balm4 ,pour over these one wine-glass of brandy1 two of sherry1 and three pints of mild ale4 ,do not allow the balm to remain in many minutes4 ,ale ,flip 7,hot74 ,put into a saucepan three pints of ale1 a tablespoonful of sugar1 a blade of mace1 a clove1 and a small piece of butter1 and bring the liquor to a boil4 ,beat the white of one egg and the yolks of two thoroughly1 mixing with them a tablespoonful of cold ale4 ,mix all together1 and then pour the whole rapidly from one large jug to another1 from a good height--mind your fingers and the furniture--for some minutes1 to froth it thoroughly4 ,do not allow it to get cool4 ,ale ,posset 7,hot74 ,boil a pint of new milk1 and pour it over a slice of toasted bread4 ,stir in the beaten yolk of an egg and a small piece of butter1 and sugar ad lib4 ,mix these with a pint of hot ale1 and boil for a few minutes4 ,when the scum rises the mixture is ready for use4 ,mulled ,ale 7,very ,hot74 ,put half a pint of ale1 a clove1 a little whole ginger1 a piece of butter the size of a marble1 and a teaspoonful of sugar into a saucepan1 and bring #ef it to boiling-point4 ,beat two eggs with a tablespoonful of cold ale1 and pour the boiling ale into them1 and then into a large jug4 ,pass the whole from one jug to another1 as in the case of ,ale ,flip1 return to saucepan1 and heat it again till almost1 not quite1 at boiling-point4 ,with regard to ,wassail1 or ,swig 7,cold71 which used to be a very popular beverage at the universities--at one time it was peculiar to ,jesus ,college1 ,oxford--is of very ancient date indeed4 8,sir quod he10 is part of a conversation culled from an old ,,ms41 8,watsayll1 for never days of your lyf ne dronk ye of such a cuppe10 which sounds as if the ,watsayll was of a seductive and harmful nature4 ,nevertheless here is the recipe1 taken from 8,oxford ,nightcaps40 ,put into a bowl half a pound of ,lisbon sugar 7if you do not possess that brand1 ,i have no doubt 8best lump10 pulverized1 will do as well71 and pour on it one pint of warm beer2 grate a nutmeg and some ginger into it2 add four glasses of sherry and five additional pints of beer2 stir it well and sweeten to taste2 let it stand covered up two or three hours1 then put three or four slices of bread cut thin and toasted brown into it1 and it is fit for use4 ,sometimes two or three slices of lemon are introduced1 together with a few lumps of sugar rubbed on the peel of a lemon4 ,bottle this mixture1 and in a few days it may be drunk in a state of effervescence4 ,on the festival of ,st4 ,david1 an immense silver-gilt bowl1 the gift of ,sir ,watkin ,w4 ,wynne to #eg the college in #agcb is filled with this 8swig10 and passed round1 at ,jesus ,college4 ,and ,i should prefer to call the beverage 8swig0 instead of 8wassail10 which should properly be a hot drink1 if we are to believe the illustrated papers at ,christmas-time4 ,and there is no toast in the orthodox ,wassail1 but1 instead1 roasted apples4 ,what does ,puck say in ,a ,midsummer ,night's ,dream8 ,sometime lurk ,i in a gossip's bowl1 ,in very likeness of a roasted crab1 ,and when she drinks against her lips ,i bob1 ,and on her wither'd dewlaps pour the ale4 ,brown ,betty ,here is another old recipe3-- ,dissolve a quarter of a pound of brown sugar in one pint of water1 slice a lemon into it1 let it stand a quarter of an hour1 then add a small quantity of pulverised cloves and cinnamon1 half a pint of brandy1 and one quart of good strong ale2 stir it well together1 put a couple of slices of toasted bread in it1 grate some nutmeg and ginger over the toast1 and it is fit for use4 ,ice it well1 and it will prove a good summer1 warm it and it will become a pleasant winter1 beverage4 ,it is drunk chiefly at dinner4 ,rather heavily loaded for a dinner drink1 ,i should say4 ,another recipe for ,ale ,flip will serve1 here4 #eh ,beat well together in a jug1 four eggs with a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar2 then add by degrees1 stirring all the time1 two quarts of old ,burton ale1 and half a pint of gin2 pour backwards and forwards from one jug to another1 and when well frothed serve in tumblers4 ,grate a little nutmeg atop of each portion4 ,this is one of the best 8nightcaps0 ,i know--especially after you may have been badger-hunting1 or burgling1 or serenading anybody on ,christmas ,eve4 ,rumfustian4 ,beat up in a jug1 the yolks of two eggs with a tablespoonful of sifted sugar2 then take half a pint of old ,burton ale1 one wine-glass of gin1 one wine-glass of sherry1 a little spice and lemon rind4 ,let the ale1 wine1 and gin1 mixed together come to the boil1 then pour in the egg mixture1 whisking rapidly2 serve hot1 with a little nutmeg grated atop4 ,such compound drinks1 into which ale enters1 as ,shandy-gaff require no mention here4 ,suffice it to mention that this gaff has for many years been the favourite beverage of those who go up the river--there is but one river in ,england--in boats1 whether schoolboys1 or of riper years4 ,in ,stock ,exchange circles champagne is occasionally substituted for ginger-beer1 but this is a combination in which ,i have no implicit belief2 although champagne and ,guinness's stout make an excellent mixture4 ,stout and bitter1 otherwise known as ,mother-in-law1 and old-and-mild1 for which the pet name is #ei ,uncle1 are also in much request amongst the groundlings2 whilst during the warm weather ,i know of no more popular swallow1 for moderate drinkers1 who do not require their throats to be scratched1 than a small bottle of lemonade to which is added just one 8pull0 of pale-ale4 ,this is called1 for the sake of brevity1 a ,small ,lem and a ,dash1 or the ,poor ,man's ,champagne2 and is a refreshing and innocuous drink which might commend itself to total abstainers4 ,in the ,universities of ,oxford and ,cambridge there is probably as much malt liquor drunk per head as in any other part of the world4 ,brasenose ,ale has obtained a reputation which the beverage doubtless fully merits4 ,since the foundation of this college a custom has prevailed of introducing into the refectory on ,shrove ,tuesday1 immediately after dinner1 what is denominated ,brasenose ,ale1 but what is known in many other parts of ,england as ,lamb's ,wool4 ,verses in praise of the ,ale are--or at all events were--annually written by one of the undergraduates1 and a copy of them is sent to every resident member of the ,college4 ,the following stanzas are taken from one of these contributions3-- #fj ,shall all our singing now be o'er1 ,since ,christmas carols fail8 ,no6 ,let us shout one stanza more ,in praise of ,brasenose ,ale6 ,a fig for ,horace and his juice1 ,falernian and ,massic2 ,far better drink can we produce1 ,though 'tis not quite so classic4 ,not all the liquors ,rome e'er had ,can beat our matchless ,beer2 ,apicius' self had gone stark mad ,to taste such noble cheer4 ,after all1 the potion is simplicity itself3-- ,three quarts of ale1 sweetened with sifted sugar1 and served up in a bowl with six roasted apples floating in it4 #fa ,,chapter ,,vi ,,all ,,ale ,waste not1 want not -- ,the right hand for the froth -- ,arthur ,roberts and ,phyllis ,broughton -- ,a landlord's perquisites -- ,marc ,antony and hot coppers -- ,introduction of ale into ,britain -- ,burton-on-,trent -- ,formerly a cotton-spinning centre -- ,a few statistics -- ,michael ,thomas ,bass -- ,a grand old man -- ,malting barleys -- ,porter and stout -- ,lager beer -- ,origin of bottled ale -- ,an ancient recipe -- ,lead-poisoning -- ,the poor man's beer4 ,in a speech made some years ago ,sir ,michael ,hicks-,beach observed that nearly one million sterling's worth of tobacco was wasted annually by throwing away cigarette-ends and the stumps of cigars4 ,but what would you1 ,sir ,michael8 ,are the lieges to cremate their lips and singe their moustaches by smoking on to the 7literally7 bitter end8 ,whether or no1 it is tolerably certain that there is an enormous daily waste in the matter of intoxicating drinks--without counting the wanton1 although conscientious1 destruction made by teetotal magnates4 ,according to statistics--,i shall not madden my readers with many of these--more than #ach1jjj1jjj #fb are spent annually in ,great ,britain on spirituous liquors4 ,half of this sum1 it may be fairly stated1 is spent in the provinces4 ,it may also be taken as read that #e per cent of beer and stout is wasted1 in the way of froth1 spillings1 and leavings1 and #c per cent of spirits4 ,this brings us face to face with the calculation that the value of our daily waste in drinks is nearly #fejj4 ,carbonic acid gas is undoubtedly answerable for a lot of this waste4 ,in ,the ,old ,guard1 a musical piece produced at the ,avenue ,theatre some years ago1 ,mr4 ,arthur ,roberts in his instructions to ,miss ,phyllis ,broughton--who made a very comely stage barmaid--particularly enjoined her1 when drawing ale1 to use her left hand to bring the handle down4 8,the right hand10 he observed--of course it was all 8gag0--8is for the froth40 ,and then he shewed her how to make half a pint of liquor fill a pint measure4 ,of course there be some professional imbibers who would object strongly and refuse to accept the froth programme2 but on the other hand it pays the retailer1 in the long-run4 ,i am not going to re-tell the old story of the ,quaker2 but will only mention that in the early seventies the landlord of a favourite tavern in the ,strand--a house of call for histrions1 which has since then been transmogrified and adorned with much bevelled glass and carved walnut--once confided to me that he made every bit of #cjj per annum out of his froth4 ,his barmaids were all of angelic appearance1 with most beautiful heads of hair 7the girls wore plenty of it in those days7 and a wealth of pretty prattle4 ,and the #fc customers being susceptible1 and liberal-minded1 the rest was easy4 ,egyptian manuscripts written at least #cjjj years before the ,christian era shew conclusively that even at that primitive period the manufacture of an intoxicating liquor from barley or other grain was extensively carried out in ,egypt4 ,probably the wretched ,israelites got far more birch and bastinado than beer given them whilst engaged in brickmaking2 but it is quite on the cards that ,cleopatra1 when fatigued with practising the spot stroke on her billiard-table1 often commanded one of her slaves to draw her a pint of bitter with a head on it2 and who knows but that her beloved ,antony cooled his coppers with small ale8 ,pliny--who would be a useful sort of man to have in a daily newspaper office nowadays--records that in his time a fermented drink made from 8corn and water0 was in regular use in all the districts of ,europe with which he was acquainted4 ,but in ,britain little was known about beer before the ,roman conquest1 as the favourite beverages of our ancestors were mead and cider4 ,but the ,romans1 although they never quite succeeded in subduing the stubborn dispositions of the 8barbarians10 managed to teach them a bit of husbandry1 and to shew them something about brewing4 ,there were no means of making wine in those days1 and--save in ,wales--there were no grapes to make it with2 but the ,latins were not long in teaching the ,britons--who were never slow to learn anything which might lead to revelry--that a very good #fd substitute for wine might be expressed from grain and water4 ,hops were undoubtedly known in ,england before the conquest1 but do not appear to have been regularly used in brewing before the beginning of the sixteenth century4 ,it is probable1 therefore1 that they were employed as medicine--and there is no better tonic than your hop4 ,the ,germans would seem to have brewed with the 8wicked weed0 before the ,englanders did1 according to the omniscient ,pliny4 ,the horny-handed son of toil1 who can put away his four or five gallons daily during harvest-time1 without falling off the waggon1 may not know it1 but it is only the female hop which is used by the brewer of to-day4 ,the characteristics of the he-hop are not known to the writer1 or whether he plays any part in aiding to relieve the thirst of the lieges2 but the female is said to exercise 8a purifying1 a preservative1 and an aromatic influence over the wort40 ,it used to be a popular fallacy that the beer made at ,burton-on-,trent was brewed from ,trent water1 instead of1 as was and is the case1 from spring-water1 which is eminently suited to the purpose4 ,the chief industry at ,burton was1 originally1 cotton-spinning1 but fifty years ago this industry was discontinued owing to the triumphal march of ,john ,barleycorn4 ,why spin cotton when the manufacture of beer is not only a much healthier occupation but is far more lucrative8 ,so ,burton stuck to its beer-making1 a trade which was originally established #fe there--in a very small way--in the sixteenth century4 ,there appears to have been a demand for ,burton ale in ,london1 during the reign of ,charles ,i42 although details are missing as to whether the demand extended to the royal palaces4 ,it is certain1 however1 that more than one hundred years ago ,burton-on-,trent did a considerable export trade with the ,baltic4 ,in #agia there were nine breweries here1 and in #ahea sixteen4 ,but at the beginning of the present century1 until the last-named year1 when the great ,exhibition attracted all the world and his wife to ,england1 the breweries at ,burton were not all in a flourishing condition2 and ,i have more than once heard my grandfather--who spoke from personal knowledge--tell the story of how the late ,mr4 ,michael ,thomas ,bass most magnanimously offered to 8prop up0 another large firm1 with the remark1 8,there's room enough for us both here60 ,at present there are thirty breweries in ,burton-on-,trent1 and employed in these are some #hjjj men and boys4 ,after the opening of the ,midland ,railway in #ahci the brewing trade here began to improve1 but it was mainly due to the energy and practical knowledge of ,mr4 ,bass aforementioned that ,burton-on-,trent in general1 and the great firm of ,bass are in their present flourishing condition4 ,in the words of ,shakespeare1 8,he was a man2 take him for all in all we shall not look upon his like again40 ,beginning as traveller to the firm1 he was not long ere #ff he became its chief director4 ,he was untiring in business1 a man possessing the broadest views of men and things1 a bit crotchety on occasion1 but possessed of 8that most excellent gift of charity10 in boundless supplies4 ,amongst his other benefactions was the building and endowment of ,st4 ,paul's1 ,burton1 and the gift of recreation grounds1 a free library1 and swimming-baths to the adjacent town of ,derby4 ,he also built and endowed another church on his own estate1 at ,rangemore2 and his hand was never out of his cash-pocket when he could aid in a good work4 ,he represented ,derby1 in the ,liberal interest1 from #ahdh to #ahhc1 and was a tower of strength to that party1 albeit possessed of nothing like bigoted opinions4 ,on the contrary1 it was his custom through life1 like ,hal o' the ,wynd in ,the ,fair ,maid of ,perth1 to 8fight for his own hand40 ,and as an instance of his energy and grit1 it may be mentioned that after voting in the ,house of ,commons for ,mr4 ,gladstone's ,irish ,church ,disestablishment ,bill--the division on which did not take place till #b ,a4,m4--he travelled by the 8newspaper train0 at #e ,a4,m4 from ,euston to ,rugeley in order to hunt with ,mr4 ,hugo ,meynell ,ingram's hounds1 later in the morning1 changing his clothes on the way down4 ,the meet was at ,brereton ,hayes1 close to ,cunnock ,chase1 and ,i well remember greeting him that morning1 and receiving for a reply3 8,thank you1 ,i'm pretty well for an old 'un40 ,he was over seventy 7,i think7 at the time4 ,that was three decades ago2 and since then the trade of ,bass has increased enormously4 #fg ,for the annual holiday of the staff ,i should be afraid to state from memory how many special trains are required to convey the great hive of workers to ,brighton1 and other far-distant watering-places1 and back to ,burton again4 ,in short1 it would be hard to find a spot in the inhabited world in which the name of ,bass is not known and respected4 ,i mentioned further back ,scotch and ,english barleys as being employed for malting purposes2 but as a matter of fact the produce of many countries is used1 in a blend1 the whole being divided into two classes1 heavy and light4 ,and in making choice of barleys it is necessary that they should be thoroughly and equally ripened1 well 8got0 or harvested1 and as far as possible presented to the brewer in the perfect husk or envelope with which nature has furnished the kernel4 ,ancient and modern modes of thrashing and dressing to a greater or less extent damage both the husk and the kernel1 and thus at the very threshold introduce one of the causes of disease4 ,whenever the grain is broken or bruised it is liable to be attacked when moist by a variety of moulds which lead to more or less serious disaster4 ,of the different varieties of beer1 8pale ale0 or 8bitter0 is a highly-hopped beer made from the very finest selected malt and hops2 whilst 8mild ale10 or as it is called in ,scotland 8sweet ale10 is of greater gravity or strength1 and is comparatively lightly hopped4 8,old ale0 is1 naturally1 the best stuff that can be brewed1 in a state of maturity2 and it is a peculiarity of ale #fh that1 securely bottled1 it will keep its strength far longer than any other fermented drink4 ,in ,december #ahhi some bottles of beer were found walled up in a cellar at ,burton-on-,trent2 and the records of the firm1 as well as the shape of the bottles1 shewed that the beer had been brewed nearly a hundred years before4 ,it was as bright as a sunbeam1 and quite drinkable1 but had lost its bitterness1 and assumed the character of sherry4 ,but old ale1 like old brandy1 is of little value to the toper1 in that it takes a very minute quantity to accomplish in him the desired effect--oblivion4 8,audit0 ales and 8college0 ditto require very delicate handling of the jug2 and ,i have tasted ancient beer in ,allsopp's cellars in ,burton1 a wine-glassful of which would probably have put a coal-whipper on his back4 ,it was the colour of mahogany and oh6 so seductive4 ,porter1 as most people know1 is a black beer1 brewed in much the same manner as the other stuff1 with roasted malt to give it colour2 whilst stout is simply a superior kind of porter4 ,as for the lager beer of the ,fatherland it is fermented at a very low temperature1 the fermentation being longer delayed4 ,some years ago great stress was laid on the ,german system of mashing called the 8thick mash10 which consisted of boiling or cooking a portion of the mash1 and running it back and remixing it with the portion left in the tun2 but it is now found possible to brew the finest lager beer with a slight modification of our own mashing method4 ,the sons of ,britannia for a considerable period held aloof from this lager1 which was #fi pronounced by some to be mere 8hogwash10 and by others to consist principally of the juice of fir-cones and onions mixed with snow-water4 ,the fir-cone flavour is1 ,i believe1 accounted for by the 8pitching0 of the barrels in which the beer is stored2 but ,i don't know where the oniony flavour comes from4 ,the prejudice against this beer has long since departed from our midst2 in fact it has become quite a favourite summer drink4 ,it is generally considered less intoxicating than its ,english cousin4 ,in fact the ,german students are in the habit of putting huge quantities thereof out of sight1 on the occasion of passing examinations1 and public rejoicings2 and these 8beer-drinkings0 are1 apparently1 fully sanctioned by the authorities4 ,it has been written that it is to ,dean ,nowell1 8classed by ,fuller among the worthies of ,england10 that we are indebted for the discovery of bottled beer4 ,according to ,fuller1 8this worthy1 who was an enthusiastic fisherman1 was one day angling in the ,thames2 but at the very time when he was trying to catch perch to carry to the frying-pan1 that benighted bigot ,bishop ,bonner was trying to catch him to tie him to the stake for purposes of cremation1 to the glory of the old religion4 ,the reverend gentleman heard that he was #8wanted1' left his fishing1 and fled as far from the ,thames as he could1 leaving untasted in a safe place a bottle of beer which he had filled in the morning4 ,bonner's day did not last long1 and ,dean ,nowell was soon able to return to his old haunts4 ,fishing as usual1 he went to look after his bottle of beer1 and #gj found that it had turned into a species of gun--it exploded its contents1 when touched40 ,thus ,nature1 which is ever kind1 turned the martyrdom and misery of ,bloody ,mary's reign to good--it brought about bottled beer4 ,the ,dean unbosomed himself of his great discovery to his clerical friends1 and the clergy let it out gradually to the laity4 ,gervase ,markham1 the aforementioned contemporary of ,shakespeare1 gives the following directions to 8the ,english ,housewife0 of #afca1 for ,brewing of ,bottle-,ale4 ,touching the brewing of ,bottle-ale1 it differeth nothing at all from the brewing of strong ,ale1 onely it must be drawne in a larger proportion1 as at least twenty gallons of halfe a quarter2 and when it comes to be changed1 you shall blinke it 7as was before shewed7 more by much than was the strong ,ale1 for it must bee pretty and sharpe1 which giveth the life and quicknesse to the ,ale3 and when you tunne it1 you shall put it into round bottles with narrow mouthes1 and then stopping them close with corke1 set them in a cold sellar up to the wast in sand1 and be sure that the corkes be fast tied in with strong packe-thrid1 for feare of rising out1 or taking vent1 which is the utter spoyle of the ,ale4 ,now for the small drinke arising from this ,bottle-ale1 or any other beere or ale whatsoever1 if you keep it after it is blinckt and boyled in a close vessell1 and then put it to barme every morning as you have occasion to use it1 the drinke will drinke a great deale the fresher1 and be much more lively in taste4 #ga ,i confess that the above directions are somewhat vague to my untutored mind1 which is quite a blank upon the subject of 8blinckt and boyled0 ale4 ,nor do ,i imagine for one moment that the 8,english ,housewife0 of the year #ahii will cumber herself with brewing or bottling1 any sort of malt-liquor1 as long as there be bonnets to be chosen1 bicycles to be ridden1 or golf to be played4 ,wholesome as may be the beer in itself1 its surroundings are not always hygienic4 ,the system of pumping up the glorious fluid from the cellar through leaden pipes neither improves the flavour nor renders it more valuable as a morning 8livener40 ,and there is a story--which ,i believe to be strictly true--told of a night cabman in ,london who used to call at the nearest tavern to his stand1 the first thing in the morning1 and swallow the first glass of beer drawn for the day4 ,his end was lead-poisoning4 ,but there6 ,john ,barleycorn has probably done far more good than harm in his day2 so let us toast the 8,egyptian drink0 in itself1 the while we sing1 in the words of the old song3-- ,dang his eyes1 ,if ever he tries ,to rob a poor man of his beer6 #gb ,,chapter ,,vii ,a ,,spirituous ,,discourse ,what is brandy8 -- ,see that you get it -- ,potato-spirit from the ,fatherland -- ,the phylloxera and her ravages -- ,cognac oil -- ,natural history of the vine-louse -- 8,spoofing0 the ,yanks -- ,properties of ,argol -- ,brandy from sawdust -- ,desiccated window-sills -- ,enormous boom in whisky -- ,dewar and the trade -- ,water famine -- ,the serpent ,alcohol -- ,some figures -- ,france the drunken nation1 not ,britain -- ,taxing of distilleries -- ,uisge beatha -- ,fusel oil -- ,rye whisky -- ,palm wine -- ,john ,exshaw knocked out by ,john ,barleycorn4 8,what is a pound80 was a favourite query of the great ,sir ,robert ,peel4 8,what is brandy80 is a question asked now and then2 and the answer thereto should be an ambiguous one4 ,brandy is supposed1 by good easy people who trouble not to enquire too closely into the composition of their daily food1 to be a liquid obtained by distilling the fermented juice of the grape4 ,the red wines are preferable1 although in the seventeenth century the best ,french brandy was made entirely from white ones4 ,the original distillation is clear and colourless1 but when placed in casks the liquid dissolves out the colouring matter of the wood1 brown sugar and other pigments being also added4 #gc ,but if you want the best ,french brandy1 distilled from the luscious grape1 see that you get it2 and let your vision be in thorough working order4 ,with the exception of the good1 conscientious spirit-distillers1 all ,french houses import potato-spirit in large quantities from ,germany1 and re-ship it to the home of the brave and free as superior cognac4 ,this alone would seem sufficient excuse for another invasion of ,france2 although these evil-minded distillers seek to justify their actions by blaming the phylloxera1 a little insect which has laboured more assiduously in the cause of temperance--by destroying the main source of intemperance--than ,sir ,wilfrid ,lawson himself4 8,the ravages of the phylloxera10 say the distillers1 in effect1 8compel us to employ other matriel1 in order to fulfil our cognac contracts with the merchants of the perfidious isle40 ,it is related of a theatrical 8property-man0 that1 upon being rebuked by the tragedian for making a snowstorm out of brown1 instead of white1 paper1 he replied curtly3 8,it was the only paper ,i had2 and if you can't snow white you must snow brown40 ,this excuse is on a par with that urged on behalf of the ,german potato-spirit4 ,phylloxera vastatrix 7why not devastatrix87 has cost ,france1 it is said1 a pecuniary loss far exceeding that of the ,franco-,prussian war4 ,the little monster was discovered in ,north ,america in #ahed1 and whether the discoverer or one of his friends brought the vine-killer on a holiday-trip to ,europe1 or whether it worked its own passage will never be known4 ,but certain it is that the #gd little monster made its first appearance on this side in the year #ahfc4 ,striking an attitude1 with the exclamation1 8,hallo6 here's a vine1 let's have the first suck10 the phylloxera commenced a long starring engagement 7to borrow another metaphor from the theatres71 which in another fifteen years' time had developed into an enormous success1 as far as the vastatrix was concerned4 ,naturally1 it is the she-phylly who does the harm4 ,from ,august to ,october ,madam lays her little eggs on the vine-leaves1 beneath the surface4 ,the ova develop late in autumn into males and females1 who migrate to the stem of the vine4 ,there each bold1 bad female lays an egg1 under the bark4 ,this egg lies dormant1 after the manner of pesky little insect-nuisances1 through the winter1 and develops in ,april or ,may into a wingless1 voracious1 merciless little 8vine-louse10 with power to add to its number4 8,the rest10 as the mechanical engineers tell us1 just before our brains go1 8is easy40 ,the vine-louse attacks the roots1 without waiting1 the silly idiot1 for the grapes to ripen1 the vine dies1 and the potato reigns in its stead4 ,without burning the plant1 or drowning it1 it is impossible to eradicate the phylloxera1 without spending three times as much cash1 in chemicals1 as the vine is worth4 ,this is the true story of ,france's great trouble4 ,beetroot-spirit is also largely used in making cognac1 the coarse spirit being flavoured with nanthic ther1 cognac-oil 7made from palm-oil7 and--other things4 ,also of late years the ,french have discovered that almost as good wine can be made from raisins as from the uncooked #ge article1 provided they use enough raisins2 three pounds being required to make a gallon of liquor4 ,a good deal can also be done1 in the way of imitation wine1 by chemicals2 it being quite possible to make sherry which will fetch at least four shillings per bottle1 for the ridiculous sum of fourpence for the same quantity4 ,and it is also a fact that a large quantity of alleged claret which 7mainly through the endeavours of the late ,mr4 ,w4 ,e4 ,gladstone7 we are able to import on the cheap from the other side of the water1 is made from currants and raisins steeped in water and mixed with cheap ,spanish wine4 ,and what is to be said of ,british brandy8 ,a country which can manufacture superior ,dorset butter from ,thames mud1 and real turtle-soup from snails and conger-eels1 is not likely to get 8left0 in a matter of distilling4 ,a great deal of brandy is1 therefore1 made in the tight little island from ordinary grain alcohol1 by adding ,argol--,i'll tell ye what this is presently--bruised ,french plums1 ,french wine-vinegar1 a little--a very little--good cognac1 and redistilling4 ,i believe that it is also possible to extract a good midnight sort of brandy--specially recommended for roysterers--from coal-tar and paraffin4 ,the ,americans make brandy from peaches and other stone-fruits1 good wholesome liquor1 but their ,french cognac is not to be recommended4 ,for it is nothing more nor less than the common whisky which ,america has exported to ,france1 sent back again1 after the necessary treatment4 ,fact4 #gf ,argol1 mentioned just now1 is a crude variety of cream of tartar which forms a crust within wine-vats and bottles4 ,originally it exists in the juice of the grape1 and is soluble therein2 but during the fermentation of the juice1 and as it passes into wine1 much alcohol is developed1 which remaining in the fermenting liquor1 causes the precipitation of ,argol4 ,thus the 8crust0 of port wine is ,argol1 the principal uses 7and abuses7 of which are in the preparation of 7besides cognac7 cream of tartar and tartaric acid4 ,and malicious people say that you have only to scratch ,french brandy to find the ,tartar4 ,a few years ago a ,german chemist discovered that a very drinkable brandy can be made from sawdust--whether deal sawdust or any description of dust does not appear2 and under the heading1 8,a ,new ,danger to ,teetotalism10 an ,american journal published the following effusion3-- 8,we are a friend of the temperance movement1 and want it to succeed2 but what chance can it have when a man can take a rip-saw and go out and get drunk with a fence-rail8 ,what is the use of a prohibitory liquor law if a man is able to make brandy-smashes out of the shingles on his roof1 or if he can get delirium tremens by drinking the legs of his kitchen chairs8 ,you may shut up an inebriate out of a gin shop and keep him away from taverns1 but if he can become uproarious on boiled sawdust and desiccated window-sills1 any effort must necessarily be a failure40 ,i can believe in the ability of most ,german chemists to do most things2 and possibly #gg sawdust is used in the ,fatherland for the manufacture of lager beer1 ,rhine ,wine1 and--but 'tis a saw subject4 ,the pure brandy at ,cognac is divided into two principal classes--8champagne0 brandy1 from grapes grown on the plains1 and 8bois0 brandy1 the product of wooded districts--,i am not alluding now to sawdust--and the last-named variety is subdivided into many different names4 ,it takes eight and a half gallons of wine to furnish one gallon of spirits2 and the ravages of the vine-louse have made a terrible difference in the supply4 ,in fact1 the amount produced in #ahig was about one-tenth of the amount produced twenty years previously4 ,but thanks to beet-root1 potatoes1 and--other things1 the distiller manages to 8get0 there just the same4 ,but the man who wrote in #ahhi1 prophesying the speedy disappearance of pure eau de vie from the market1 was probably not far wrong4 8,it would seem on the whole10 he wrote1 8that unless the phylloxera be stamped out1 pure brandy will soon be a thing of the past40 ,but they do not tell you this in saloon-bars1 and places where they drink4 ,it was stated by ,mr4 ,dewar last year 7#ahih7 that there were #hi1jjj1jjj gallons of whisky lying idle in bond because sufficient suitable water to dilute it to the orthodox strength could not be found4 ,this statement is calculated to give a moderate drinker the gapes2 whilst ,sir ,wilfrid ,lawson and others must have longed for permission to set fire to every bonded warehouse in the ,kingdom4 ,but the same great authority #gh on the wines of bonnie ,scotland made another statement at the same time which is eminently calculated to remove all fears lest whisky1 like brandy1 be on the down line4 8,the serpent ,alcohol10 remarks a writer in the ,daily ,telegraph1 in discussing ,mr4 ,dewar's speech1 8may have been scotched0--was this meant for a joke8--8but it is far from having been killed40 ,according to the ,ex-,sheriff's statistics the distillation of ,irish whisky1 despite its diminishing popularity1 has increased during the last fourteen years by about thirty per cent2 while in ,scotland during the same period the increase has been at the rate of nearly eighty per cent4 ,ireland1 that is to say1 which produced eleven million gallons in #ahhd1 now produces fourteen million and a half gallons2 while the ,scotch output1 which was eighteen million gallons in the former year1 had risen in #ahih to the enormous figure of thirty-three millions and a half4 ,hech sirs6 these be braw figures indeed4 ,yet let not the ,british be held up to reprobation as hard drinkers1 as long as ,france is a going concern4 ,statistics prove that in ,scotland1 the land o' the barley bree1 the consumption of spirits during the year #ahib-ic averaged a little more than twelve and a half pints per month1 which is little more than the proportion of spirits required by the ,parisians1 without wine1 absinthe1 and--other things4 ,the boulevardiers are called 8temperate10 although they drink as much spirits as do the ,scots1 and thirty times as much wine1 not to mention cider and beer4 ,distilling in ,britain dates from the eleventh #gi century1 but in the beginning it was worked solely in the monasteries by the jovial monks4 ,what a good time those monks of old would seem to have had6 ,according to the popular prints they were usually engaged either in fishing1 eating oysters1 drinking out of flagons1 catching beetles1 confessing pretty women1 or being shaved2 and we know that their abiding-places were built1 for the most part1 on the banks of a river which absolutely swarmed with salmon or trout1 in the midst of a district teeming with game4 ,any how the monks made spirits1 or 8strong waters0 as they were called in those days1 first4 ,pure malt whisky is1 and has been1 made almost exclusively in ,scotland4 ,in ,ireland they use about one-third of malt to two-thirds of oats and maize4 ,in ,england they make whisky of pretty nearly everything1 including ,german spirit1 petroleum1 and old boots2 whilst in gallant little ,wales--well the only acknowledged ,welsh whisky ,i have tasted was excellent in quality1 and apparently made from pure malt4 ,distilling1 as a trade1 commenced in ,england during the ,tudor period1 and from the reputation bluff ,king ,hal bore for feathering his nest1 it is probable that the industry was fully taxed4 ,in #aegi ,scotch distilleries were taxed for the first time4 ,in ,ireland as far back as the eleventh century the natives made uisge beatha--now called potheen--without interference from landlord or gauger1 and continued at it until the sixteenth century1 when licenses were enforced in the cases of all but the gentry1 and to run an illicit still was #hj punishable with death and dismemberment4 ,but they ran 'em just the same2 for in those days an ,irishman was never really happy unless he were drinking1 fighting1 or being sentenced to death4 ,but whether it was ,english1 ,scotch1 ,welsh1 or ,irish whisky1 or ,french brandy1 or ,dutch gin1 smuggling and illicit distilling were rampant through the centuries1 and the ,inland ,revenue officer was no more respected or worshipped than at the present day4 ,still there has not been much blood shed over those differences of opinion2 except in ,western ,pennsylvania at the close of the last century--a period when the greater part of the universe was fighting about something--when it took #ae1jjj soldiers from ,washington to quell a riot amongst a populace discontented with the ,excise regulations4 ,blending and diluting whiskies are for the most part done in the bonded warehouses4 8,all commercial spirit10 says an authority on the subject1 8however pure1 contains a small proportion of impurities0 7which sounds ,irish7 8or by-products of distillation known as fusel-oil40 ,it will relieve the minds of some to know that fusel-oil is merely a by-product of distillation1 and not the 8low-flash0 stuff which causes the accidents with the cheap lamps4 ,it used to be thought that during the 8maturing10 or 8ageing10 of whisky the constituents of fusel-oil underwent decomposition2 but my good friend ,doctor ,james ,bell1 ,c4,b41 the chief ,government analyst at ,somerset ,house 7he retired some three years ago71 utterly refuted this theory by analysis4 ,whisky is1 like brandy1 naturally white1 and #ha takes its trade colour1 and1 to a certain extent1 flavour1 from the sherry-casks in which it is matured4 ,it is also coloured by the direct addition of caramel 7burnt sugar71 or a maturing wine4 ,in ,america1 ,rye or ,bourbon whisky is made from wheat or maize grown in the ,bourbon country1 ,kentucky1 and some of it would kill at forty yards4 ,the chief distillery states on the other side of the ,atlantic are ,illinois1 ,ohio1 ,kentucky1 ,indiana1 ,new ,york1 and ,pennsylvania4 ,at the ,cape1 and throughout ,south ,africa1 there is decent whisky procurable1 as also a pernicious compound known as 8,square-face0 or 8,cape smoke10 and in much favour with the dusky races of the country4 ,on the ,congo1 palm-wine--similar to the fermented toddy of the ,east ,indies--was for centuries the only livener1 but with the march of civilization have come the whiskies of ,great ,britain1 more or less adulterated2 and whereas in the past death by the sword1 or the club1 was the only known punishment for the subjects of the native tyrants who are so fond of thinning out the population1 a well-fuselled whisky is now freely employed for the same purpose4 ,although whisky is now freely partaken of all over ,great ,britain1 it was comparatively speaking despised in ,england until the first half of the present century had slipped by4 ,this fact is apparent from a perusal of contemporary literature4 ,and in no country has 8malt0 had such a rise in public estimation as in the great continent of ,hindustan1 where 8,john ,exshaw0 and 8,john #hb ,collins0--the last named a seductive compound of gin1 limes1 ,curaoa1 and soda-water--have been almost knocked out by ,john ,barleycorn and ,jean ,pomme-de-terre4 ,until the visit of ,h4,r4,h4 the ,prince of ,wales1 brandy was almost the sole potation of the heroes who helped to hold the big wonderland1 the old-fashioned brandi-pani gradually giving place to the brandy diluted with ,belati pani1 or 8,europe water40 ,thirty years ago a 8peg0 meant a brandy-and-soda2 but whisky has now usurped the proud position once occupied by the products of ,john ,exshaw1 ,justerini and ,brooks1 and others4 #hc ,,chapter ,,viii ,,other ,,spirits ,old ,jamaica pine-apple -- 8,tots0 for ,tommy ,atkins -- ,the grog tub aboard ship -- ,omelette au rhum -- ,rum-and-milk -- ,ditto-and-ale -- ,a maddening mixture -- ,rectifying gin -- 8,the seasoning as does it0 -- ,oil of turpentine and table-salt -- ,a long thirst -- ,a farthing's worth of ,old ,tom -- ,roach-alum -- ,dirty gin -- ,gin and bitters -- 8,kosher0 rum -- ,an active and intelligent officer -- ,gambling propensities of the ,israelites -- ,the dice in the tumbler -- ,nomenclature at 8,the ,olde ,cheshyre ,cheese0 -- 8,rack0 -- 8,cork40 ,we now come to ,rum1 8superior old ,jamaica pine-apple10 otherwise known as 8sailors' tea0--the spirit in question having from time immemorial been held in high esteem by mariners both afloat and ashore4 ,rum is probably one of the easiest beverages to make1 being1 simply1 fermented and distilled cane-sugar4 ,occasionally pine-apples and guavas are thrown into the still1 but in making this spirit on a large scale no attempts are made to add to its flavour and thereby deduct from the profits to be made on the commodity4 ,it is coloured with caramel1 and the longer you keep it the better and1 therefore1 the more valuable1 it becomes4 ,in the city #hd of ,carlisle in the year #ahfe some rum known to be #adj years old was sold for #c 3 #cs4 per bottle4 ,this is not the brand served out to our army and navy2 although the 8tots0 issued periodically to ,tommy ,atkins and ,ben ,bowline consist of good1 sound liquor1 wholesome enough1 save for gouty subjects--and a sailor with the gout would be of about as much use to his ,queen and country as a watch without works--and writing from past experience ,i can aver that every drop of liquor1 whether ale or rum1 supplied in a regimental canteen had to be previously passed by a committee of 8taste40 ,in many ships1 nowadays1 no rum or other intoxicant is served out2 and as no equivalent is given1 it might appear as though the owners made a good thing out of the temperate habits of their crews4 ,but ,i do not believe in total abstinence as an aid to work2 and ,i have never seen a sailor the worse--on board ship--for his 8tot40 ,on the other hand1 in the old days of 8,green's0 troop-ships1 the old sailing-vessels which made the voyage to ,india round the ,cape of ,good ,hope1 it was by no means infrequent for a soldier to be 8overcome0 by the cane-spirit1 of which he occasionally got rather more than his orthodox allowance4 ,how was this managed8 ,the thrifty seafarers were in the habit of selling their grog allowance to the 8swaddies02 and as soon as the ship's captain found this out1 he issued stringent regulations which it might have been expected would put a stop to this practice4 ,when all hands were piped to grog a ship's officer was #he stationed by the tub1 to see that each sailor drank his allowance4 ,still there was intoxication amongst the troops1 and it was discovered that many of the sailors' pannikins had false bottoms1 and that in this way the rum was concealed4 ,after that the ship's officer was enjoined to see that each sailor partook of his tot2 but even this precaution failed2 for the rum would be ejected from the men's mouths into a bucket in the fo'c'sle1 and then sold--a disgusting practice which merited severe punishment1 and frequently obtained it4 ,we ,english do not make nearly as much use of rum in cookery as do our lively neighbours4 ,one of the most approved of entremets is an omelette au rhum1 a truly grateful dish1 if the omelette be properly made1 although rum be spelt with an 8h40 ,but it is a mistake to use rum-sauce with plum-pudding1 as do the ,french2 for brandy is a far better digestive of the cloying materials of which the pudding is composed4 ,as mentioned in ,cakes and ,ale1 rum-and-milk is said1 by the chief ,english authority on dietetics1 to be the most powerful restorative known to man4 ,this may1 or may not1 be true2 ,i am prepared to back a judicious dose of 8the ,boy0--not limited to a 8split pint10 either4 ,but of all horrible mixtures1 defend me from rum-and-ale1 which used to be a potion much in favour with the dangerous classes of our metropolis1 in the days when ,i went 8slumming0 in search of plain unvarnished facts4 ,a steaming tumbler of rum and hot water1 with a piece of butter melted therein1 was1 in my younger days1 in vogue as an infallible #hf specific to eject a cold from the head4 ,nowadays1 ,i prefer the cold4 ,gin is supposed by students1 who do not make practical test of their learning1 to be distilled from malt1 or from unmalted barley1 or from some other grain1 and afterwards rectified and flavoured4 ,and just as it was 7according to ,mr4 ,samuel ,weller7 the seasoning which did it in the case of the cheap pies1 so is it the rectifying1 and the flavouring which do it1 in the matter of gin4 ,occasionally 8rectifying0 is hardly the right word to use4 ,that there is such a thing as wholesome1 tolerably-pure gin is more than probable2 but there is also a very undesirable fluid sold to the poorer classes1 and esteemed by their vitiated palates1 known under different pet names1 of which 8blue ruin0 and 8white satin0 are two4 ,this brand of gin is flavoured more or less with oil of turpentine and common salt4 ,no wonder thirst stalks abroad next morning6 8,in one well-known hostelry10 observes a writer in a daily newspaper1 8situated not a stone's throw from the ,bank of ,england1 you can1 if you be so minded1 ask for and obtain a farthing's worth of gin4 ,it is served in tiny liqueur-glasses1 and the custom dates from the time when the purchasing power of the coin in question was far greater than it is now1 and when consequently1 a farthing's worth of gin was considered to be a sufficient quantity for any respectable citizen4 ,another public-house1 in ,bishopsgate ,street1 is also compelled1 by the terms of its license1 to supply a farthing's worth of either #8gin1 rum1 or shrub1' to any customer requiring #hg it2 while not far away is a hostelry which is permitted to carry on the dual businesses of liquor-dispensing or pawnbroking4 ,yet another ,city public-house possesses a sort of annexe where medicines are retailed4 ,handy1 this1 for the unhappy sufferer from swelled head40 ,i suppose as the above has appeared in a newspaper1 it is strictly true4 ,but how sad6 ,although my knowledge of ,london is 8peculiar0 ,i cannot say ,i am acquainted with the licensed house in which drawing drinks and taking in pledges are combined2 but ,i have seen farthing's worths of 8,old ,tom0 dispensed in more than one hostelry1 to slatternly women1 before my own breakfast hour1 and ,i have shuddered at the sight4 ,but why stop short at selling medicines in the annexe of a dram shop8 ,i should have thought an undertaker1 in another compartment1 might do a fairish trade4 ,these are some of the ingredients put into gin1 to give it 8body10 and make it 8bite0--gin without teeth being notoriously inferior tipple and altogether unfit for the consumption of the good ladies who are1 sad to say1 by far the best customers of the gin retailer3--roach-alum 7this sounds fishy71 salt of tartar1 oil of juniper1 cassia1 nutmeg1 lemon1 fennel1 and carraway and coriander seeds1 cardamoms1 capsicums1 and sulphuric acid4 ,all these1 mind ye1 besides the afore-mentioned oil of turpentine1 and the afore-mentioned potato-spirit1 which last would seem to enter into most drinks of the day4 ,the word 8,gin0 is really an abbreviation of 8,geneva10 under which name the spirit was at #hh one time known4 ,not that it is principally manufactured in picturesque ,switzerland1 where the watches come from2 but 8,geneva0 is a corruption of the old ,french word genevre1 the juniper4 ,i used to read1 in childhood's days1 that ,juniper berries and barley make gin1 but those ingredients--or the berries1 at all events--would seem to be only regularly used in ,holland1 nowadays4 8,dirty0 gin1 of which we used to hear so much1 was1 ,i believe1 as pure as any other geneva1 and not less clean4 ,plymouth gin is said to be the healthiest form of the article1 but 'tis an acquired taste1 and 8,old ,tom0 is certainly more toothsome4 ,in entering as fully into details as ,i have above ,i have no wish to discourage the consumption of gin proper1 especially when blended with ginger-beer 7an excellent summer beverage71 or doing duty in a cock-tail1 a sling1 a punch1 or a ,john ,collins4 ,but ,i am not a 8gin man0 myself4 ,and to my mind a 8nip0 less calculated to promote appetite than any other is a 8gin-and-bitters40 8,kosher0 rum1 i4e4 rum treated according to instructions laid down in the ,mosaic ,law1 is in high favour with the ,jews2 and in some of the taverns which abut on the ,israelitish quarters which are about ,aldgate there are recognized 8rum-rooms40 ,there used to be1 and probably is at the present day1 a considerable amount of card--playing 7spieling7 or throwing of dice for wagers1 carried on in these apartments2 and ,i once knew a son of ,judah who was heavily fined #hi by the stipendiary magistrate1 for gambling on licensed premises4 ,to the day of his death this ,jew protested his innocence of the crime4 ,he told me the whole story1 interlarded with tears and gesticulations4 ,the rozzers 7detectives7 raided the rum-room one afternoon1 and created considerable commotion4 ,some of the imbibers managed to make their escape1 but my informant was not so fortunate4 ,he was seized by one minion of the law1 and shortly afterwards another officer cried3 8,see where he has hidden the dice in his tumbler of ,old ,jamaica60 8,and1 may ,i die10 added the poor ,yid1 8if the gonoph 7rascal7 hadn't placed 'em there himself--don't yer beliefe me80 ,of course ,i did4 ,here is another way of employing rum2 but you will not be able to shine at solo-whist afterwards4 ,rum ,booze4 ,the yolks of eight eggs well beaten up1 with some sifted sugar1 and a grated nutmeg2 extract the juice from rind of a lemon by rubbing loaf sugar thereon2 put the sugar1 a piece of cinnamon1 and a bottle of white wine into a clean saucepan1 and when the wine boils take it off the fire4 ,pour one glass of cold sherry into it1 put it into a spouted jug 7,i don't mean hypothecated1 but a jug with a spout to it7 and pour it gradually amongst the egg mixture1 keeping the whole well stirred with a spoon as the wine is poured in4 ,sweeten to taste1 and pour the mixture from one vessel to another until a fine white froth is obtained4 #ij ,the recipe continues4 8,half a pint of rum is sometimes added1 but it is then very intoxicating40 ,but sans rum whence the ,rum ,booze8 ,port ,wine is sometimes substituted for white wine1 but is not considered so palatable4 ,this liquor should be drunk when quite hot4 ,if the wine be poured boiling hot among the eggs1 the mixture will become curdled4 ,without the rum the mixture is one form of ,egg ,flip4 ,when treating of gin ,i should have mentioned that at one well-known ,city hostelry1 8,the ,olde ,cheshyre ,cheese0 in ,wine ,office ,court1 ,fleet ,street1 gin is never known by any other name than 8rack40 ,why1 ,i know not4 ,but in the same old tavern should you require ,scotch ,whisky you must call for 8,scotch10 without mentioning the word whisky2 and if ,irish1 8,cork0 is the password4 #ia ,,chapter ,,ix ,,cups ,,which ,,cheer ,claret combinations -- ,not too much noyeau -- ,a treat for schoolboys -- ,the properties of borage -- 8,away with melancholy0 -- ,salmon's ,household ,companion -- ,balm for vapours -- ,crimean cup -- ,an elaborate and far-reaching compound -- ,orgeat -- ,a race-day cup -- 8,should auld acquaintance be forgot80 -- ,sparkling ,isabella -- ,rochester's delight -- ,freemason's relish -- ,porter cup -- ,dainty drink for a tennis-party4 ,it is probable that there are almost as many recipes for claret cup as there are letters in ,holy ,writ1 or acres in ,yorkshire4 ,this is the late ,mr4 ,donald's ,cup4 ,one bottle claret4 #a wine-glass pale brandy4 do4 yellow chartreuse4 do4 curaoa4 do4 maraschino4 #b bottles ,seltzer water4 #a lemon cut in thin slices4 ,a few sprigs of borage4 ,ice and sugar to taste4 #ib ,to my taste there is rather too much liqueur in the above4 ,here is a simple recipe for ,badminton4 ,peel half a small cucumber and put it into a silver cup together with four ounces of sifted sugar1 the juice of one lemon1 a little nutmeg1 half a glass of curaoa1 and a bottle of claret2 when the sugar is thoroughly dissolved1 pour in a bottle of soda-water1 add ice1 and drink4 ,the cucumber should not be left in too long1 and a sprig or two of borage will improve the flavour4 ,balaclava ,cup4 ,throw into a large bowl the thinly pared rind of half a lemon1 add two tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar1 the juice of two lemons1 and half a small cucumber1 unpeeled1 in slices4 ,mix well1 and add two bottles of soda-water1 two bottles of claret1 and one of champagne2 mix well1 ice1 and flavour with borage4 ,another ,claret ,cup4 ,put into a large bowl three bottles of claret1 a large wine-glass of curaoa1 a pint of dry sherry1 half a pint of old brandy1 a large wine-glass of raspberry syrup1 three oranges and one lemon cut into slices4 ,add four bottles of arated water1 sweeten to taste1 ice and flavour with borage4 ,this is a good cup for a garden-party1 or a tent at ,ascot2 and remember always that the better the ingredients the better the cup4 ,more especially let your brandy be of the right brand4 ,yet ,another4 ,pour into a large jug one bottle of claret1 two wine-glasses of dry sherry1 and a dash of maraschino4 #ic ,add a few sliced nectarines1 or peaches1 and sweeten to taste4 ,let it stand till the sugar is melted1 and then add a sprig of borage4 ,just before using add one bottle of ,seltzer water1 and a large piece of ice4 ,soda-water1 ,stretton water1 or any other natural spring-water may be substituted for ,seltzer4 ,one ,more1 and a very simple one4 ,put into a bowl the rind of one lemon pared very thin1 add sugar to taste1 and pour over it a wine-glass of sherry2 then add a bottle of claret1 more sugar1 a sprig of verbena for flavour1 one bottle of arated water1 and a little grated nutmeg2 strain and ice4 ,my ,ideal ,claret ,cup4 ,two wine-glasses old brandy1 one wine-glass curaoa1 and a little thin lemon-peel1 sweeten to taste1 and pour over the mixture two bottles of light claret4 ,just before using add a pint bottle of sparkling moselle1 and two bottles of fizzing water4 ,flavour with borage1 and put a large block of ice in the bowl4 ,nobody who has not tried it can understand how much the addition of a little sparkling ,moselle improves a claret cup4 8,for'ard ,on0 ,cup4 ,put into a large bowl three bottles of claret1 a large wine-glass of curaoa1 one pint of sherry1 half a pint of old brandy1 two wine-glasses of raspberry syrup1 three oranges and one lemon cut into slices2 add a few sprigs of borage1 a little cucumber-rind1 #id two bottles of ,seltzer water and three bottles of soda-water4 ,mix well1 and sweeten to taste4 ,let the mixture stand for an hour1 then strain1 and put a large block of ice in it4 ,serve in small tumblers2 and if champagne be substituted for claret1 and noyeau for raspberry syrup1 a most excellent champagne cup will be the result4 ,beware1 however1 of too free a hand with the noyeau4 ,this liqueur contains hydrocyanic 7otherwise ,prussic7 acid1 and should only be used cautiously1 unless evil be wished to your guests4 ,cider ,cup1 or ,cold ,tankard4 ,this is a favourite beverage for schoolboys and university students4 ,i cannot say that ,i have encountered it since the early sixties1 but 'tis a refreshing drink for the river-side and the cricket-field4 ,extract the juice from the peel of one lemon by rubbing loaf-sugar on it2 cut two lemons into thin slices2 the rind of one lemon cut thin1 a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar1 and half a pint of brandy 7,i don't think they allowed as much brandy as this at my old school74 ,pour the whole into a large jug1 mix it well together1 and pour one quart of cold spring-water upon it4 ,grate a nutmeg into it1 add one pint of white wine1 and a bottle of cider1 sweeten to taste with capillaire or sugar1 put a handful of balm and the same quantity of borage in flower1 stalk downwards4 ,then put the jug containing this liquor into a tub of ice1 and when it has remained there one hour it will be fit for use4 ,the balm and borage should be fresh gathered4 ,and here a few words as to the virtues of these4 ,in ,evelyn's ,acetaria it is written3--8,the #ie sprigs of borage in wine are of known virtue1 to revive the hypochondriac1 and cheer the hard student40 ,salmon's ,household ,companion1 #agaj1 told us3 8,borage is one of the four cordial flowers2 it comforts the heart1 cheers melancholy1 and revives the fainting spirits40 8,borage10 wrote ,sir ,john ,hill1 ,m4,d41 8has the credit of being a great cordial2 throwing it into cold wine is better than all the medicinal preparations40 8,the leaves1 flowers1 and seeds of borage10 says the ,english ,physician1 8all or any of them1 are good to expel pensiveness and melancholy40 8,balm is very good to help digestion and open obstructions of the brain1 and hath so much purging quality in it1 as to expel those melancholy vapours from the spirits and blood which are in the heart and arteries1 although it cannot do so in other parts of the body0 7,ibid74 ,after all this information1 let not the garden of the melancholy vapourer be searched in vain for balm and borage4 ,perry ,cup is made in the same manner as the above1 with the natural substitution of perry for cider4 ,crimean ,cup4 ,this is an elaborate affair4 ,one quart of syrup of orgeat 7to make this vide next recipe71 one pint and a half of old brandy1 two wine-glasses of maraschino1 one pint of old rum1 #if two large and one small bottles of champagne1 three bottles of ,seltzer water1 half a pound of sifted sugar1 and the juice of five lemons4 ,peel the lemons and put the thin rind in a mortar with the sugar4 ,pound them well1 and scrape the result with a silver spoon into a large bowl4 ,squeeze in the juice of the lemons1 add the ,seltzer water1 and stir till the sugar is quite dissolved4 ,then add the orgeat1 and whip the mixture well with a whisk1 so as to whiten it4 ,add the maraschino1 rum1 and brandy1 and strain the whole into another bowl4 ,just before the cup is required1 put in the champagne and stir vigorously with a punch ladle4 ,the champagne should have been previously well iced1 as no apparent iceberg is allowable in this mixture4 ,do not make too free with this mixture1 if you are about to ride the favourite for an important race1 or you will be seeing five winning posts1 like the late 8,jem0 ,snowden4 ,orgeat4 ,you do not often hear this compound called for nowadays1 but here is the programme for its manufacture3-- ,blanch and pound three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds1 and thirty bitter almonds1 in one tablespoonful of water4 ,stir in by degrees two pints of water and three pints of milk4 ,strain the mixture through a cloth4 ,dissolve half a pound of loaf-sugar in one pint of water4 ,boil and skim well1 and then mix with the almond water4 ,add two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water and half a pint of old brandy4 ,be careful to boil the eau sucr well1 as this concoction must not be too watery4 #ig ,a ,crimean ,cup for a much smaller party can be made1 without the addition of orgeat1 as follows3-- ,put the peel of half a lemon or orange into a bowl1 add a tablespoonful of sifted sugar1 one small glassful of maraschino1 half that quantity of curaoa1 and a wine-glassful of old brandy4 ,mix well together1 and add two bottles of arated water1 one bottle of champagne1 and a block of ice4 ,race-day ,cup4 ,dissolve a quarter of a pound of sugar in a quarter of a pint of water1 add the juice of two lemons1 one wine-glassful of brandy1 half a wine-glassful of cherry brandy1 a dash of maraschino1 and a bottle of champagne4 ,add also a small piece of cucumber-peel1 two sprigs of borage1 two thin slices of lemon1 four strawberries1 four brandy-cherries1 and two bottles of ,seltzer water2 stir well1 and ice for an hour after covering up the bowl4 ,before serving put in a block of ice1 and serve in tumblers4 ,loving ,cup4 ,better a little flavoured brandy-and-water where love is than a ,crimean ,cup or a ,halo ,punch amidst bickerings and vexation of spirit4 ,rub the rind of two oranges on loaf-sugar and put the sugar into a bowl2 add half a pint of brandy1 the juice of one lemon1 one-third of a pint of orange juice1 and one pint of water4 ,add more sugar if required1 and ice well4 ,i don't know if the above is the way the ,loving ,cup at the ,mansion ,house is made2 #ih but probably one recipe is as good as another1 when all you have to do is to sip the liquid and pass it on4 ,the ancients knew not 8cups02 simply because they knew not the virtues of ,wenham ,lake ice1 or its imitations2 whilst the 8strong-waters0 and alleged wines of the past did not blend particularly well1 and there was no soda-water4 ,fearful and wonderful beverages were their compound drinks1 however1 many of which have already been analysed in these pages4 ,but the recipe for ,rochester ,cup1 which is taken from a comparatively modern book1 smacks of the antique4 ,at all events my own wine-merchant professes to be 8out of0 sparkling ,catawba and sparkling ,isabella4 ,but here is the programme4 ,put into a bowl two bottles of sparkling ,catawba1 two bottles of sparkling ,isabella1 and one bottle of ,sauterne2 mix well1 then add two wine-glasses of maraschino and two wine-glasses of curaoa2 ice well1 and add some strawberries1 or a few drops of extract of peach or vanilla4 ,a very excellent ,champagne ,cup can be made from the recipe headed 8,donald's ,cup0 at the commencement of this chapter1 substituting 8the ,boy0 for the red wine of ,bordeaux4 ,and here is a simple little refresher1 suitable for a breaking-up party at a young ladies' school4 #ii ,chablis ,cup4 ,dissolve four or five lumps of sugar in a quarter of a pint of boiling water1 and put it into a bowl with a very thin slice of lemon rind2 let it stand for half an hour1 then add a bottle of ,chablis1 a sprig of verbena1 a wine-glassful of sherry1 and half a pint of water4 ,mix well1 and let the mixture stand for a while1 then strain1 add a bottle of ,seltzer water1 a few strawberries or raspberries1 and a block of ice4 ,serve in small glasses4 ,should you wish to make ,red ,cup use one pint of port wine instead of white2 and sometimes two glasses of red-currant jelly are added4 ,in other respects1 follow the directions already laid down for making ,cider ,cup2 a little warm water being necessary to dissolve the jelly4 ,freemason4 ,this sounds a 8for'ard0 sort of potion3--,put into a bowl one pint of ,scotch ale1 one pint of mild ale1 half a pint of brandy1 one pint of sherry1 and half a pound of sifted sugar4 ,mix well together1 grate a little nutmeg over the top1 and add a block of ice4 ,mind1 ,i1 personally1 do not believe in the blending of malt liquor with wine or spirits2 and the above reads like a bile-provoker of the most persistent type4 ,but compared ,with the next recipe--which some of my readers may think should come1 for choice1 under the heading of 8,strange ,swallows0--it is harmless indeed4 #ajj ,porter ,cup4 ,put into a tankard or covered jug one bottle of stout1 one bottle of mild ale1 and one wine-glassful of old brandy1 with sugar ad lib42 then add a little powdered ginger1 half a nutmeg grated2 cover it over1 ice for half an hour2 before serving1 stir in a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda1 add a few strips of cucumber-rind1 and put in1 last of all1 a block of ice4 ,one more cup1 and ,i have done with this part of my subject4 ,this is a ladylike concoction1 as its name would seem to imply4 ,tennis ,cup4 ,put into a bowl four tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar1 the rind of one lemon and juice of two1 one wine-glassful of brandy1 one wine-glassful of ginger syrup1 and a small piece of cucumber-rind2 add two bottles of soda-water1 one sprig of borage1 and two sprigs of verbena4 ,ice well2 and serve in small glasses4 #aja ,,chapter ,x ,,punch ,derivation of the word questioned -- ,not an ,asiatic drink -- 8,pale-punts0 -- ,no relation to pale punters -- ,properties of rum -- ,toddy as a tonic -- ,irish punch -- ,glasgie ditto -- ,o'er muckle cauld watter -- ,one to seven -- ,hech sirs6 -- ,classical sherbet -- ,virtues of the feet of calves -- ,west ,india dry gripes -- ,make your own punch -- ,no deputy allowed -- ,attraction of capillaire -- ,gin punch -- ,eight recipes for milk punch -- ,university heart-cheerers4 ,when e'en a bowl of punch we make1 ,four striking opposites we take3 ,the strong1 the small1 the sharp1 the sweet1 ,together mix'd1 most kindly meet1 ,and when they happily unite ,the bowl is pregnant with delight4 ,in ,cakes and ,ale1 grave doubts are expressed as to whether the usually-accepted derivation of punch is the correct one4 ,why ,asia should be raked to find a name for a purely ,european concoction1 is beyond my powers of argument2 and1 as observed in another place1 in the concoction of this seductive brew it is by no means necessary to limit oneself to five ingredients4 ,it may be news to the adopters of the panch 7five7 theory to read that punch was at one time #ajb called 8pale-punts10 why or wherefore deponent sayeth not2 here is the extract from a work published ,a4,d4 #afia3-- 8,pale-punts1 here vulgarly known by the name of ,punch2 a drink compounded of brandy or aqua vit1 juice of lemons1 oranges1 sugar1 or such like2 very usual amongst those that frequent the sea1 where a bowl of punch is an usual beverage40 ,but it was 8usual0 only in the days of sailing-ships and long voyages2 and with fast steamers and whole evenings devoted to the beauties of poker1 or selling pools1 a more usual modern maritime drink is a modicum of whisky diluted with arated water4 8,the liquor called ,punch10 writes another professional authority1 8has become so truly ,english1 it is often supposed to be indigenous to this country1 though its name at least is ,oriental4 ,the ,persian punj1 or ,sanscrit pancha1 i4e4 five 7vide ,fryer's ,travels71 is the etymon of its title1 and denotes the number of ingredients of which it is composed4 ,addison's #8fox-hunter1' who testified so much surprise when he found that of the materials of which this #8truly ,english' beverage was made only the water belonged to ,england1 would have been still more astonished had his informant also told him that it derived even its name from the ,east40 ,but did natives of the ,east drink it8 ,tell me that4 8,various opinions are entertained respecting this compound drink4 ,some authors praise it as a cooling and refreshing beverage1 when drunk #ajc in moderation2 others condemn the use of it as prejudicial to the brain and nervous system4 ,dr4 ,cheyne1 a celebrated ,scotch physician1 author of an essay on #8,long ,life and ,health1' and who by a system of diet and regimen reduced himself from the enormous weight of thirty-two stone to nearly one-third1 which enabled him to live to the age of seventy-two1 insists that there is but one wholesome ingredient in it1 and that is the water4 ,dr4 ,willich1 on the contrary1 asserts that if a proper quantity of acid be used in making punch1 it is an excellent antiseptic1 and well calculated to supply the place of wine in resisting putrefaction1 especially if drank cold with plenty of sugar2 it also promotes perspiration2 but if drank hot and immoderately it creates acidity in the stomach1 weakens the nerves1 and gives rise to complaints of the breast4 ,he further states that after a heavy meal it is improper1 as it may check digestion1 and injure the stomach4 8,rennie states that he once heard a facetious physician at a public hospital prescribe for a poor fellow sinking under the atrophy of starvation a bowl of punch4 ,mr4 ,wadd gives us a prescription3-- 8 #8,rum1 aqua dulci miscetur acetum1 et fiet ex tali fdere nobile ,punch4' 8,he also states that toddy1 or punch without acid1 when made for a day or two before it is used1 is a good and cheap substitute for wine as a tonic1 in convalescence from typhus fever1 etc40 ,it is here worthy of note that what is meant by 8punch0 in ,ireland is1 and has been for at least two centuries1 whisky1 sugar1 lemon1 and #ajd the less water the better4 ,a very old way of concocting it is to melt the sugar within the tumbler 7which should be covered1 pro tem47 with the smallest quantity of water sufficient for the purpose1 the thin lemon-rind having been previously added4 ,then comes the whisky2 8and10 according to the old formula1 8the laste dhrop o' wather0 added atop of the 8crathur0 will spoil the punch4 ,but in all ,english works in which punch has been mentioned--previous to the early seventies1 at all events--by the active ingredients of punch should be understood either rum1 brandy1 or gin4 8,english ,punch10 says a writer of our own time1 8is1 as regards the spirit1 mostly of two kinds--brandy and rum1 mixed in proportions which must be left to taste4 ,the rum generally predominates4 ,the acid is nearly always lemon juice4 ,the spice is nearly always lemon-peel1 but sometimes tea-leaf0--now marry come up6--8sometimes nutmeg2 and as for the sugar and the water they explain themselves40 ,the ,scotch make toddy in very much the same way as the ,irish concoct their punch4 ,but ,glasgow ,punch1 according to ,john ,gibson ,lockhart1 was compounded with the coldest spring-water--a commodity which would seem to be growing somewhat scarce in ,caledonia--for the purpose of punch-making1 at all events4 #aje ,the sugar being melted with a little cold water1 the artist squeezed about a dozen lemons through a wooden strainer1 and then poured in water enough almost to fill the bowl4 ,in this state the liquor goes by the name of sherbet1 and a few of the connoisseurs in his immediate neighbourhood were requested to give their opinion of it--for in the mixing of the sherbet lies1 according to the ,glasgow creed at least1 one half of the whole battle4 ,this being approved by an audible smack from the lips of the umpires1 the rum was added to the beverage1 ,i suppose in something about the proportion of one to seven4 ,hech sirs6 ,or1 does it mean seven of rum to one of the spring8 ,last of all the maker cut a few limes1 and running each section rapidly round the rim of his bowl1 squeezed in enough of this more delicate acid to flavour the whole composition4 ,in this consists the true tour-de-matre of the punch-maker4 ,oxford ,punch or ,classical ,sherbet is a very ancient beverage1 and from the sustaining powers of the calves'-foot jelly 7under what heading1 amongst punch ingredients1 does this come1 by the way87 inserted therein might fairly pose as meat and drink4 ,extract the juice from the rind of three lemons1 by rubbing loaf-sugar on them4 ,the peeling of two ,seville oranges and two lemons1 cut extremely #ajf thin4 ,the juice of four ,seville oranges and ten lemons4 ,six glasses of calves'-feet jelly in a liquid state4 ,the above to be put into a jug and stirred well together4 ,pour two quarts of boiling water on the mixture1 cover the jug closely1 and place it near the fire for a quarter of an hour4 ,then strain the liquid through a sieve into a punch bowl or jug1 sweeten it with a bottle of capillaire 7the recipe for this follows71 and add half a pint of white wine1 a pint of ,french brandy1 a pint of ,jamaica rum1 and a bottle of orange shrub2 the mixture to be stirred as the spirits are poured in4 ,if not sufficiently sweet1 add loaf-sugar1 or a little more capillaire4 ,to be served either hot or cold4 ,in making the punch limes are sometimes used instead of lemons1 but are not so wholesome2 in fact ,arbuthnot1 in his work on aliments1 says3 8,the ,west ,india dry gripes are occasioned by lime-juice in punch40 ,and nobody wants them4 ,ignorant servants sometimes put oxalic acid into punch1 to give it a flavour2 but unless the throats of the drinkers be lined with brass1 this acid is of no real service4 ,and the host who would entrust the making of any sort of punch to a subordinate1 must be either very ignorant1 or very careless of the comfort of his guests--and possibly both4 ,cups1 punches1 and salads should always be concocted by somebody who will make personal trial of their merits4 ,to make ,capillaire1 put two ounces of freshly-gathered maidenhair fern into a jug1 with sufficient boiling water to cover it4 #ajg ,let it stand in front of the fire to infuse for some hours2 then strain and put it into a clear syrup made by boiling together three pounds of sugar and three pints of water2 add two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water1 and stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes4 ,strain through a jelly-bag1 and bottle when cold4 ,a more potent punch can be made from the same recipe as the ,oxford ,punch1 by leaving out the calves'-feet jelly1 and substituting green tea for water4 ,and this sort is invariably drunk hot4 ,mix three wine-glasses of noyeau with the original recipe and it is entitled to the name of ,noyeau ,punch4 ,omit the rum1 brandy1 and shrub1 and substitute two bottles of gin1 and it becomes ,gin ,punch4 ,if ,i could only afford to keep a secretary1 a clever stenographer and type-writer1 ,i might be able to supply the world with gratuitous recipes for cooling cups1 dainty drinks1 and peerless punches1 and earn1 maybe1 the thanks of both ,houses of ,parliament1 and a granite bust on the ,thames ,embankment or in ,shaftesbury ,avenue4 ,it is entirely due to lack of funds that ,i am issuing books on the subject of meat and drink2 and ,i will now proceed to enlighten the thousands of alleged bons-vivants1 who ask questions as to the concoction of ,milk ,punch4 ,there are many recipes for this seductive drink1 each one better than its predecessor4 #ajh #a4 ,warm two quarts or water and one of new milk1 then mix them well together1 and sweeten with a sufficient quantity of loaf-sugar4 ,rub a few lumps of sugar on the peel of a lemon1 put them into a jug with the above1 and half a pint of lemon juice1 stirring the mixture well as it is poured in4 ,then add one quart of old brandy4 ,strain and bottle off1 and in cold weather it will keep a fortnight4 #b4 ,dissolve two pounds and a half of sugar in one gallon of cold spring-water2 add thereto a quarter of a pint of orange-flower water1 with the juice of twenty limes and eight oranges4 ,stir well together2 pour one quart of boiling milk into it1 and then add three bottles of old brandy1 and a like quantity of orange brandy shrub4 ,strain and bottle off4 #c4 ,cut the peeling of six ,seville oranges and six lemons very thin4 ,pound in a stone mortar4 ,add one pint of brandy and let the mixture stand six hours1 covered4 ,then squeeze in the juice of six ,seville oranges and eight lemons4 ,stir well1 and add three more pints of brandy1 three pints of rum1 and three quarts of water4 ,make two quarts of milk boiling hot1 and grate a nutmeg into it2 mix this gradually with the other ingredients1 and add a sufficient quantity of loaf-sugar to sweeten it--about two pounds4 ,stir till the sugar is dissolved2 let the mixture stand twelve hours1 then strain through a jelly-bag until quite clear4 ,bottle off1 and it will keep in any climate for any length of time4 #d4 ,three bottles of rum4 ,one bottle of sherry4 ,three pounds of loaf-sugar4 ,the rind of six lemons and the juice of twelve4 ,one quart of boiling skim milk4 ,mix together1 and let the mixture stand eight days1 #aji stirring it each day4 ,strain and bottle1 and let it stand three months4 ,then re-bottle1 and let the bottles lie on their sides in the cellar for two years1 to mature4 ,the flavour will be much better than if drunk after the first period of three months4 #e4 ,for a solitary drink4 ,put into a small tumbler a teaspoonful of sugar1 half a wine-glassful of old brandy1 half a wine-glassful of old rum1 and fill up with boiling milk4 #f4 ,put into a bottle of rum or brandy the thinly-pared rinds of three ,seville oranges1 and three lemons4 ,cork tightly for two days4 ,rub off on two pounds loaf-sugar the rinds of six lemons1 squeeze the juice of the fruit over the two pounds sugar1 add one quart of boiling water1 and one of boiling milk4 ,mix well till the sugar is dissolved1 and grate a little nutmeg over the mixture4 ,pour in the rum or brandy1 stir1 and strain till clear3 bottle off4 #g4 ,cut off the thin yellow rind of four lemons and one ,seville orange1 taking care not to include even a fragment of the white rind1 and place in a basin4 ,pour in a bottle of old rum1 and let it stand1 covered over1 for twelve hours4 ,then strain1 and mix with it one pint of lemon juice1 and two pints of cold water1 in which one pound of sugar-candy has been dissolved2 add the whites of two eggs1 beaten to a froth1 three pints more of rum1 one pint of madeira1 one pint of strong green tea1 and a wine-glassful of maraschino4 ,mix thoroughly1 and pour over all one pint of boiling milk4 ,let the punch stand a little while1 then strain through a jelly-bag1 and either use at once 7as you will naturally feel inclined7 or bottle off for festivals4 ,it is assumed1 by the compiler of this little volume1 that the best materials only will be used by the concocters of these compound drinks4 #aaj #h1 and last4 ,the best recipe for milk punch extant4 ,over the yellow rinds of four lemons and one ,seville orange pour one pint of rum4 ,let it stand1 covered over1 for twelve hours4 ,strain and mix in two pints more of rum1 one pint of brandy1 one pint of sherry1 half a pint of lemon juice1 the expressed juice of a peeled pine-apple1 one pint of green tea1 one pound of sugar dissolved in one quart of boiling water1 the whites of two eggs beaten up1 one quart of boiling milk4 ,mix well1 let it cool1 strain through a jelly-bag1 and drink1 or bottle off4 ,restorative ,punch4 ,this is another ,oxford recipe1 and used to be the favourite potion of the embryo ,gladstones and ,roseberies1 before proceeding to discuss the affairs of the nation at the 8,union40 ,there is 8no offence in't40 ,extract the juice from the peeling of one ,seville orange and one lemon2 the juice of six ,seville oranges and six lemons1 six glasses of calves'-feet jelly in a liquid state1 and about half a pound of loaf-sugar2 put the whole into a jug1 pour on it one quart of boiling water1 and then add one pint of old brandy4 ,stir well together1 and use4 ,almond ,punch4 ,extract the juice from the peeling of one ,seville orange and one lemon by rubbing loaf-sugar on them2 the juice of six lemons and one ,seville orange1 one bottle of capillaire1 and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar4 ,put the whole into a jug1 and when well mixed pour upon it three pints of boiling #aaa water4 ,cover the jug close1 and keep it near the fire for a quarter of an hour4 ,then add three ounces of sweet1 and half an ounce of bitter1 almonds1 blanched and pounded fine in a mortar1 and gradually mixed with a bottle of old brandy4 ,stir well1 and it may be used immediately4 ,egg ,punch4 ,also once a favourite beverage at the universities4 ,one quart of cold water1 the juice of six lemons and six oranges1 four glasses of calves'-feet jelly in a liquid state2 stir the whole well together2 let it remain covered over for half an hour1 then strain through a hair sieve1 and add one bottle of capillaire1 two glasses of sherry1 half a pint of brandy1 and one bottle of orange shrub4 ,put some pulverized sugar and ten fresh hens' eggs into a bowl1 beat them well together1 and gradually unite the two mixtures by keeping the eggs well stirred as it is poured in2 then whip it with a whisk until a fine froth rises1 and if sweet enough it is fit for immediate use4 ,this punch should be drunk as soon as made1 for it will not keep sweet4 ,omit the wine and spirits1 and freeze the remainder1 and a delicious mould of ice may be obtained4 ,the above can be converted into ,shrub ,punch1 of a superior quality1 by the simple omission of the eggs4 ,details are wanting as to the composition of the #aab ,rack ,punch of which ,jos4 ,sedley partook so freely at ,vauxhall1 and which put a temporary stop to the carryings-on of the fascinating ,miss ,sharp with the susceptible ,anglo-,indian4 ,thackeray does not tell us if this was an abbreviation of ,arrack ,punch4 ,my own idea is that brandy and rum--of inferior quality--entered into it2 although1 as mentioned in a previous chapter1 8rack0 is the 8,cheshyre ,cheese0 synonym for gin4 ,but ,i should be inclined to back arrack4 ,at all events this is one of the component parts of a ,vauxhall ,punch of which the recipe is in my possession4 ,a large tumbler1 one wine-glass of old brandy1 one ditto of old rum1 one ditto of arrack1 the juice of half a lemon1 and a tablespoonful of sugar4 ,mix1 strain into two small tumblers1 and fill up each with boiling water4 ,uncle ,toby4 ,here is another encouragement to the bile industry3-- ,rub the rind of one lemon on two lumps of sugar1 put the sugar in a large tumbler with the juice of the lemon1 and dissolve in one wine-glass of boiling water2 then add one wine-glass of brandy1 one ditto of rum1 and two dittoes of hot stout2 mix well1 strain1 and add more sugar if necessary4 #aac ,victoria ,punch4 ,throw into a bowl one lemon cut in slices1 free from pips1 two ounces of sifted sugar1 two wine-glasses of boiling water1 one wine-glass of hot milk1 one wine-glass of old rum1 and one ditto of ancient brandy2 keep stirring whilst adding the ingredients2 strain and serve4 ,yorkshire ,punch4 ,i have not yet met this in the ,north ,riding2 but it is never too late to copy a good recipe4 ,rub the rinds of three lemons on a quarter of a pound of lump-sugar1 and place the sugar in a bowl with the thin rind of one lemon and of one orange1 the juice of four oranges and of ten lemons1 six wine-glasses of calves'-feet jelly1 and two quarts of boiling water4 ,mix thoroughly1 strain1 and add a pint of rum1 a pint of brandy1 and a bottle of orange shrub4 ,sweeten to taste4 ,champagne ,punch4 ,pare two lemons very thin1 and steep the peel in one pint of rum4 ,add a wine-glass of sherry1 half a pint of brandy1 the juice of four lemons1 a little capillaire1 as much boiling water as you may fancy--play light with the kettle1 lads--sweeten to taste1 and last thing of all pour in a bottle of champagne4 ,the above will act as a restorative after a hard day's hunting4 ,later in the evening the true sportsman may feel ready and willing to tackle a glass or two of the celebrated #aad ,halo ,punch1 whose praises continue to be sung throughout the land4 ,with a quarter of a pound of sugar rub off the outer rind of one lemon and two ,seville oranges4 ,put rind and sugar into a large punch bowl with the juice and pulp2 mix the sugar well with the juice and one teacupful of boiling water 7just enough to melt it7 and stir till cold4 ,add half a pint of pine-apple syrup1 one pint of strong green tea1 a wine-glass of maraschino1 a liqueur-glass of noyeau1 half a pint of 8,liquid ,sunshine0 rum1 one pint of old brandy1 and a bottle and a half of 8the ,boy40 ,sweeten to taste1 strain1 and serve4 ,do not1 oh6 do not boil the above before serving1 as did some ,cleveland friends of mine1 on the night of a certain ,ebor ,handicap4 ,the result of this was a considerable amount of chaos4 ,the above was the favourite tipple of the ,prince ,regent at the beginning of the present century4 #aae ,,chapter ,,xi ,,strange ,,swallows 8,wormwood60 -- ,the little green fairy -- ,all right when you know it1 but -- ,the hour of absinthe -- ,awful effects -- ,marie ,corelli -- ,st4 ,john the ,divine -- ,arrack and bhang not to be encouraged -- ,plain water -- ,the original intoxicant -- ,sacred beverage of the mild ,hindu -- ,chi ,chi -- ,kafta1 an ,arabian delight -- ,friends as whisky agents -- ,effervescent ,glenlivet -- ,the peat-reek -- ,american bar-keeper and his best customer -- 8,like swallerin' a circ'lar saw and pullin' it up again0 -- ,castor-oil anecdote -- 8,haste to the wedding60 ,we will now proceed to consider certain weird potations1 some of which ,i have personally tested1 others of which not all the wealth of ,golconda1 ,peru1 and ,throgmorton ,street would induce me to sample of my own accord1 and all of which bring more or less trouble in their wake4 ,gall and wormwood have been closely allied from time immemorial2 and it is in accordance with the eternal fitness of things that the consumption of ,absinthe should be almost entirely confined to ,france4 ,and what is absinthe8 ,merely alcohol1 in #aaf which have been macerated for a week or so the pounded leaves and flowering tops of wormwood1 together with angelica root1 sweet-flag root1 star-anise1 and other aromatics4 ,the liquor is then distilled1 and the result is the decoctions sacred to the 8little green fairy10 who has accomplished even more manslaughter than the ,mahdi1 the ,khalifa1 and the ,peculiar ,people1 put together4 ,of all the liqueurs absinthe is the most pernicious2 and with many other sins it occupies some time in taking possession of its victim4 ,like ,mr4 ,chevalier's hero1 you 8have to know it fust10 and after that the rest is easy4 ,like golf1 8scorching10 and gambling1 once you 8get0 absinthe1 it gets you1 and never leaves you whilst you last2 and there is a weird1 almost tragic1 look about the milky liquid1 when diluted with water1 as to suggest smoke1 and brimstone1 and flames1 with a demon rising from their midst4 ,but it is only 8the little green fairy02 who is1 however1 as deadly and determined as any demon4 ,the best absinthe is made in the canton of ,neuchtel1 ,switzerland1 and is not made entirely from ,wormwood proper1 but from a mixture of plants related to it--such as ,southernwood 78,old ,man071 and another which takes its name from the invulnerable ,achilles4 ,but the merry ,swiss boy knows a trick worth two of drinking absinthe2 so the ,french get the most of it1 whilst some goes to ,america1 and some to the foreign quarters of our great metropolis4 ,the ,french soldiers learnt to appreciate it1 from drinking it as a febrifuge1 during the ,algerian campaign1 #ahcb-dg1 and it afterwards became1 #aag gradually1 a popular drink on the boulevards1 where the five o'clock gossip-hour at the cafs came to be known as 8the hour of absinthe40 ,its use is now forbidden in the ,french army and navy1 and no wonder4 ,the evil effects of drinking it are very apparent3 utter derangement of the digestive system1 weakened frame1 limp muscles1 pappy brain1 jumpy heart1 horrible dreams and hallucinations1 with paralysis or idiocy to bring down the curtain4 ,in that seductive1 though gruesome book1 ,wormwood1 ,marie ,corelli gives a most graphic picture of an absintheur1 once a gay young banker1 who1 through trouble of no ordinary kind1 gradually came under the spell of the 8green fairy40 ,i forget how many murders he committed2 but his awful experiences and hallucinations will never leave anybody who has read the book4 ,he is haunted for some days by a leopard who accompanies him on his walks abroad1 and who lies down at the foot of his bed at night-time--the 8jim-jams10 in fact1 in their worst form4 8,there are two terrible verses10 says a writer on the subject1 8in the ,revelations of ,st4 ,john4 8,and the third angel sounded his trumpet1 and there fell a great star from the heavens1 burning like a lamp1 and it fell upon a third part of the rivers and upon the fountains of waters4 ,and the name of the star is called ,wormwood2 and the third part of the waters became ,wormwood1 and many men died of the waters because they were made bitter40 ,which seems a very appropriate quotation2 #aah yet will men drink of the waters1 for although absinthe makes the heart grow blacker1 and the pulse more feeble1 men--and1 occasionally women--will continue1 as long as there is a world1 to do the thing they ought not to do4 ,with which moralising let us pass to the next objectionable drink1 ,arrack4 ,this is an ,east ,indian name1 derived from the ,arabic1 for all sorts of distilled spirits1 but chiefly for the 8toddy10 or palm-liquor obtained from the cocoa-palm1 as also from rice1 and the coarse brown sugar known to the natives as 8jaggery40 8,toddy10 when fresh1 is a delicious drink1 and bears no sort of relationship to whisky-toddy4 ,an almost nude male swarms up a cocoa-palm--assisted by a rope which encircles his ankles and the trunk of the tree--early in the morning1 and fetches down the vessel which has been fastened up atop1 overnight1 to catch the sap which has dripped from the incisions made in the tree4 ,that sap1 in its raw state1 is delicious--especially with a dash of rum in it1 but it ferments rapidly1 and usually turns sour in three or four days4 ,then the natives distil1 and make 8arrack0 of it--a liquor which is sold in the bazaars and drunk on the occasion of a burra din1 or festival4 ,nor is its use confined to natives4 ,the ,british soldier drinks it1 faute de mieux2 and occasionally the ,british officer4 ,poor ,b1 who was in my old regiment1 had fuddled himself into such a state of stupidity1 that all liquor was forbidden him by the doctor's #aai orders4 ,i1 who shared his bungalow1 took particular care that these orders were carried out1 and threatened his bearer and khitmugar with fearful penalties should they convey any surreptitious alcohol to the sahib4 ,still he managed to get it2 and it took me a week to find out how4 ,his syce 7groom7 used to smuggle arrack from the bazaar1 and hide it under the horse's bedding in the stable2 and whenever ,i was away from the house1 poor ,b used to creep over to the stable1 and 8soak0 there6 ,an imitation arrack may be made by dissolving #aj grains of benzoic acid in a pint of rum2 but arrack is just the sort of fluid which ought not to be imitated4 ,give me the honest1 manly1 simple1 beautiful ,bass6 ,bhang1 another dreadful ,east ,indian drink1 and a deadly intoxicant1 is distilled from hemp2 and if it had only been round the neck of the inventor before he invented it1 society would have benefited4 ,sak1 the favourite beverage of the ,japs1 who got it from the ,chinese1 and improved upon it1 is not a desirable swallow4 ,it is a rapid intoxicant1 but the over-estimator rapidly recovers the perpendicular4 ,sak was handed round as a liqueur1 at the much-advertised banquet of the 8,thirteen ,club02 but it is said that the liqueur was in no subsequent request4 ,not even one of those #abj daring and adventurous mirror-smashers and salt-spillers express the desire to take-on sak 8in a moog40 ,vodka is the 8livener0 of the ,russian peasantry1 and is distilled from--what8 ,plain ,water1 whether fortunately or otherwise1 comes under the heading of 8,strange ,swallows40 ,it is still consumed in prisons1 and other places where sinners and paupers are dieted at the expense of the ratepayer4 ,and hard as are the ways of the transgressor1 his daily 8quencher0 is even harder4 8,plain water10 wrote a celebrated ,mongolian of his day1 8has a malignant influence1 and ought on no account to be drunk40 ,more especially if it be ,thames water4 ,i once saw a drop of this1 very much magnified1 displayed on a stretched cloth1 in a side-show at the ,crystal ,palace4 ,in that drop of water ,i counted three boa-constrictors1 a few horrors which resembled giant lobsters1 and a pair of turtles engaged1 apparently1 in a duel to the death4 ,three ladies in the front row of the stalls1 at that exhibition1 were carried out1 swooning4 ,whether cold water ought to be drunk1 or not1 ,i am bound1 as a tolerably truthful chronicler1 to remark that very few folk who can obtain any other sort of tipple do drink it4 ,it has been claimed by the ,brahmins that #aba ,the ,original ,intoxicant was evolved from the climbing bindweed of ,hindustan1 one of the convolvulus family4 ,from this was made a liquor called ,soma1 which is still the sacred beverage of the ,hindus4 ,it is the ,persian ,haoma1 and1 ,i should imagine1 8absolutely beastly0 to the ,christian taste4 ,everybody knows the ,christian bindweed--the stuff you get in your garden when you set potatoes1 or early peas4 ,pulque1 which is the sap of the aloe1 is the favourite drink of the ,mexicans4 ,in ,kamtchatka the natives drink 7or used to drink7 birch-wine1 which has been already described in these pages4 ,the ,russians1 also1 are very fond of birch-wine2 and their's effervesces1 like champagne4 ,in ,patagonia they drink ,chi ,chi1 a cider made from wild apples4 ,pits are dug1 and lined with the hides of horses1 to prevent any liquor escaping1 the apples are thrown in1 and left to decay1 and ferment1 8on their own40 ,the ,patagonians have an annual 8big drink0 of this dreadful mess1 besides many smaller boosing-bouts4 ,and upon these occasions the ,patagonian ladies are in the habit of hiding all the knives and lethal weapons they can find1 and retiring1 with their children1 into the woods1 until their lords and masters and other relatives have drunk themselves mad1 and then slept themselves sober again4 #abb ,in the ,caucasus district there be strange drinks made from mares' milk1 sparkling--such as ,koumiss1 or otherwise4 ,but these beverages do not have a large sale in other districts4 ,kafta1 which hardly comes under the heading of 8swallows10 is in much request amongst the ,arabs1 especially in the neighbourhood of ,yemen4 ,these people boil the leaves and stems of the kat--a shrub about ten feet high1 which is planted in the same ground as the coffee--and chew them4 ,all visitors are presented with twigs of this kat plant to chew2 and the drawing-room carpet suffers terribly4 8,very pleasant sensations0 are1 it is said1 caused by this custom1 and the effect is so invigorating that the ,arab soldier who goes in steadily for ,kafta can do 8sentry go0 all night without feeling in the least drowsy4 ,whether the soldiers of the ,khalifa did much chewing on the night before the battle of ,omdurman deponent sayeth not4 ,frequently the kat leaves are boiled in milk sweetened with honey1 and the result is the same4 ,the infusion is intoxicating1 but the effect is not of long endurance2 and at a synod of the most learned ,mahomedans it was pronounced lawful for the faithful to chew1 or drink ,kafta1 8as1 whilst it did not impair the health nor hinder the observance of religious duties1 it increased hilarity and good humour40 ,sly rogues1 these followers of the ,prophet6 ,if a man wants to retain his old friends and #abc to make fresh ones let not that man take to selling wines or spirits on commission4 ,some years ago ,i gave an old schoolfellow an order for a case of ,scotch whisky1 which he declared upon oath to be absolutely the best procurable4 ,home came the whisky1 and the first cork was drawn4 ,pop6 ,the stuff was literally effervescent1 like champagne1 or ,russian birch-wine4 8,my dear10 ,i observed to the partner of my joys and cares1 8we had better not drink much of this40 ,at the next ,sandown ,park race-meeting ,i met the whisky agent1 who1 ,i forgot to mention before1 was a bit of a stammerer4 8,and wh-wh-wh-what10 he asked1 8d'you think of that wh-wh-wh-wh-whisky80 ,stammering is occasionally to be caught4 8,i think10 was my reply1 8it's the d-d-d-dashedest m-m-m-muck ,i ever t-t-t-t-tasted40 8,wh-wh-what's the m-m-m-matter with it80 8,it f-f-f-fizzes like g-g-g-ginger p-p-p-pop40 8,my d-d-dear sir10 he protested1 8that is no dr-dr-drawback4 ,that's the p-p-p-peat-r-r-reek40 ,peat-reek or no1 that whisky was not used for household purposes-not even for the ,christmas pudding2 but was kept for the special benefit of such police-constables1 ,inland ,revenue officers1 process-servers1 tax-gatherers1 book agents1 and retailers of certain winners1 as might call around1 with a thirst in them4 ,strange whisky reminds me of the ,american story of the proprietor of a spirit-store in ,arizona1 who found the ordinary brand of 8,rye0 was not sufficiently attractive to his customers4 ,so he fitted together a blend of his own1 consisting of #abd essence of ginger1 capsicums1 croton oil1 snuff1 carbolic acid1 pain-killer1 turpentine1 and a little very young and very potent spirit distilled from old junk4 ,he placed a bottle of this on the counter1 and the first customer who came along helped himself to a tumblerful1 and1 taking it 8straight10 swallowed it at a gulp4 ,as soon as he had got his second wind1 he gasped out3 8,that's the best doggoned whisky ,i've sampled in this yer camp4 ,sonny1 guess you've fixed me up to rights4 ,it's like swallerin' a circ'lar saw and pullin' it up again4 ,so long40 ,and with the tears pouring down his cheeks1 and holding on to his diaphragm with both hands1 he staggered into the open4 ,the saloon-keeper watched him from the doorway1 until he had passed the second block1 and rounded the corner2 and returned to his counter and his bottles1 with the pious exclamation3 8,the ,lord be praised46 ,he hasn't died in our parish60 ,no chapter on strange drinks would be complete without the following story1 which1 ,i confess at the outset1 is one of the most venerable of 8chestnuts40 ,it appeared in the ,sporting ,times four-and-twenty years ago1 and ,i will not affirm that it was strictly original even then4 ,it has since been translated into every known language2 but it is just possible that some of the rising generation may not have heard it4 ,a well-dressed gentleman entered a chemist's shop one morning1 evidently in a violent hurry4 8,can you make me up a dose of castor-oil80 8,certainly1 sir10 said the dispenser1 with a bow4 #abe ,whilst he was going through the usual motions--no prescription can be properly made up until the chemist has overhauled every bottle on the top shelf1 opened most of the empty drawers1 and upset a tray of tooth-brushes--the customer was fidgeting about the shop1 and fanning himself with a scented pocket-handkerchief4 8,it's infernally hot10 he said presently1 8and ,i don't think ,i ever felt so thirsty in my life4 ,can ,i have a bottle of lemonade80 8,certainly1 sir40 ,more sorting of bottles4 ,presently 8pop0 goes a cork1 and the sparkling lemonade is poured into a mammoth tumbler4 ,the customer drains it at once4 8,ah-h-h60 he crowed1 wiping his mouth4 8,i feel a bit better now40 ,a pause4 ,presently he asked3-- 8,have you made that up yet80 8,what1 sir80 asked the chemist4 8,why that stuff--the castor-oil ,i ordered40 8,you've had it1 sir40 8,had it8 ,wotty mean80 8,i gave it you in the lemonade1 sir40 8,great ,scotland ,yard60 exclaimed the customer4 8,i didn't want it for myself--,i'm going to be married in half an hour60 #abf ,,chapter ,,xii 8,,the ,,boy0 ,definition of the youth -- ,the valley of the ,marne -- ,an ,archbishop in sparkling company -- ,all is not cham4 that fizzes -- ,beneficial effects of ,pommery -- ,dire memories of the ,haymarket -- ,the bad boy at ,york -- ,a hair of the canine -- ,the good boy -- ,gout defied -- ,old ,roman cellars -- ,a chronic bombardment -- ,magnums to right of 'em -- ,duties of the disgorger -- ,simon the cellarer -- ,fifteen millions of full bottles -- ,pro-dig-i-ous6 -- ,gooseberry champagne a myth -- ,about ,mdoc -- ,the ancients spelt claret with two 8r's0 -- ,hints on adulteration -- 8,chteau ,gubbins0 -- ,new wine -- ,gladstone claret -- 8,pricked60 8,see how it sparkles1 this drink divine10 sings ,girofl1 in ,lecocq's opera2 and although the sparkling liquor therein is described in the text as 8punch0--which does not sparkle much as a rule--,i have no doubt whatever that what ,lecocq1 or his librettist meant1 was the grateful liquid which is described in different circles of society as 8fiz10 8,simpkin0 7the nearest approach a ,mahomedan table-servant can make to 8champagne071 8a bottle10 8golden pop10 and 8the ,boy40 ,here let me interpolate the commonly-received #abg interpretation of the last-named title4 ,at a shooting party1 a stout urchin of some fifteen summers was specially told off to carry the liquid refreshment for the shooters1 which took the form of ,perrier ,jout in magnums4 ,and so frequent were the calls of 8,boy60 that morning1 that the youth threw up his situation before noon4 ,d'you believe it8 ,not a word of it8 ,same here4 ,at least ,i never attended a 8shoot0 at which the gunners steadied their nerves by the aid of choice vintages--before luncheon1 at all events2 and ,i don't mean to begin now4 ,champagne was probably called 8the ,boy0 because of its free1 happy1 joyous1 loose-and-careless characteristics4 ,the sparkle represents youth1 and the froth irresponsibility2 whilst the whole but never mind about the whole1 just now4 ,the ,champagne district1 as some people know1 lies on the chalk hills which surround the valley of the ,marne4 ,the townlets of ,epernay1 ,ay1 and ,chteau ,thierry owe their prosperity to these seductive wines1 and ,rheims has attained world-wide celebrity1 as much from being the centre of the champagne industry as from being the seat of the premier ecclesiastic of ,france1 the ,archbishop of ,paris4 ,so far1 guide-book4 ,the champagne-vines are short and stunted1 the grapes being small1 but most prolific of juice4 ,a third1 and even a fourth1 crushing will yield a very delicious wine1 to an uneducated palate2 and this is the inferior liquor which is sold to tourists in ,rheims at the equivalent of one shilling and fivepence per large bottle4 ,it is a sweet--what #abh connoisseurs call a 8lady's0 wine1 which an expert would not taste a second time2 and its aftermath1 its effect on the imbiber the following day1 is somewhat distressing4 ,somehow1 notwithstanding the import duties1 champagne--,i am alluding now to the superior brands--is almost as cheap in ,london as in the best hotels in ,rheims2 but the experiment of drinking it in the land of its birth is not as risky as on alien shores4 ,at least so say the natives of the district1 who maintain that although work in the cellars is not the pleasantest in the world--the strong smell1 which is even intoxicating1 giving the workmen a distaste for the sparkling wine--it is quite possible for an outsider to drink a quantity of champagne of undoubted quality without feeling any bad after-effects4 8,you may1 in fact10 it was told me on the spot1 8drink four bottles of ,pommery '#hd1 and feel all the better for it next day40 ,possibly2 but how about the inferior stuff which we used to sample1 occasionally1 in our salad days1 when our green judgment led us to pass our early mornings in riotous junketings in the now staid and peaceful region of the ,haymarket1 ,s4,w48 ,much later than those days ,i have sampled alleged champagne--8extra sec10 it was called1 though 8extra sick0 would have been more appropriate--on a race-course1 in order to fitly celebrate some famous victory4 ,but in my riper years1 the victory 7when it occurs7 is honoured in more staid and seemly fashion4 ,i was never nearer death by poison than one ,friday morning in the ancient city of ,york1 #abi after indulging somewhat freely in the 8sparkling0 proffered me on the previous day in a booth on ,knavesmire4 ,do what ,i would--and ,i walked ten miles1 went for a scull on the river ,ouse1 and then swallowed hot mustard-and-water--the distressing sensations1 the great wave of depression which seemed to have swamped the heart1 would not quit the body1 until--and the idea came as a bolt from the blue--,i had summoned up sufficient strength of mind to enter the coffee-room of the principal hotel1 and demand a pint of ,pommery4 ,it was not a hair of the dog which had bitten me2 the mangy brute from the attention of whose fangs ,i was suffering was no sort of relation to the highly-bred terrier who rooted out the anguish from my soul4 ,and that small pint was so successful that another went the same way4 ,and by that time ,i had been inspired with nerve enough to face a charging tiger1 unarmed4 ,many learned people1 including one section of the medical profession1 incline to the belief that consumption of champagne offers direct encouragement to gout4 ,but there is no such idea amongst those employed in the cellars of ,moet et ,chandon1 ,geisler1 ,mum1 ,pommery1 and other large firms4 ,not that these workmen are allowed to drink as much of their own foaming productions as they have a mind to4 ,as a matter of fact the wine supplied to the ouvriers is the thin red stuff of the district1 resembling inferior ,burgundy1 and not of a very elevating nature4 ,it is not particularly attractive1 this life of labour1 for nine or ten hours a day1 in a damp1 cold #acj cellar some fifty yards below the level of the street pavements1 with occasionally bottles bursting to right and left of you4 ,these cellars are cut out of the calcareous rock1 and were1 many of them1 inherited from the ,romans2 and champagne is such a sensitive1 exacting sort of wine that it must be stored in the very bowels of the earth1 where all is peace and quietude1 and where neither motion nor vibration can reach the maturing vintages4 ,at least that is what they tell visitors2 although the only time ,i have visited champagne cellars could hardly be called a peaceful experience1 owing to the almost continuous bombardment of bursting bottles4 ,and it is said that as a rule at least #aj per cent of the stored wine is wasted in this way2 whilst in seasons of early and unusual heat the percentage may rise to as much as #bj1 and even #be4 ,sparkling champagne--and we are not concerned with the still wine--is the result of a peculiar treatment during fermentation4 ,during the winter months the wine is racked-off1 and fined with isinglass2 and in the early spring it is bottled and tightly corked4 ,in order to collect the sediment in the necks of the bottles these are placed at first in a sloping condition1 with the corks downward1 for a term4 ,in the second year this sediment requires to be disgorged1 or dgag-ed4 ,this feat can only be learnt by long practice1 and even then there be workmen who cannot be safely trusted to shift the sediment1 without shifting a too-large proportion of the wine itself4 #aca ,may ,i confess to the belief that ,i should never make a good1 reliable1 valuable disgorger8 ,of course there is art1 or knack1 in it4 ,the degager takes a bottle1 cuts the string of the cork1 expels the sediment--occasionally without spilling more than a drop or two--and passes the bottle to his neighbour1 who fills it up with a liqueur1 composed of sugar-candy dissolved in cognac1 and flavoured1 and with some bright1 clarified wine4 ,the bottle is then recorked1 by machinery1 wired1 labelled1 and sent about its business4 ,the fermentation being incomplete at the first bottling of the wine1 the carbonic acid gas generated in a confined space--this part comes unadorned1 out of a book--exerts pressure on itself1 and it thus remains as a liquid in the wine4 ,when this pressure is removed it expands into gas1 and thus communicates the sparkling property to champagne4 ,hence the bombardments4 ,how do ,i know all this8 ,i once paid a visit to the cellars of ,pommery et ,cie42 and my dearest friend asked subsequently what sort of writ of ejectment had to be drawn up to rid them of my presence and thirst4 ,but all joking apart the time was well spent1 and the industry is deserving of all the encouragement which it receives4 ,the head cellarman is1 literally a host in himself1 an old gentleman of aristocratic mien1 and portly--or1 rather1 champagne-ly--presence2 and one of the formulae to be gone through before quitting the premises is to drink a glass of the very best with that charming old gentleman1 who ,i hope still flourishes amid his bottles and his #acb disgorgers4 ,and when it is added that there are usually upwards of #ae1jjj1jjj bottles in the cellars at one time1 the old heresy as to the district being unable to supply sufficient wine save for ,russian consumption is at once exploded4 ,in fact some twenty-five millions of gallons of champagne are produced1 annually1 in the district4 ,of course not all of it is of the finest growth1 and some of it a connoisseur would reject with scorn4 ,in order to smash another old fallacy it is1 perhaps1 hardly necessary to add that champagne is not made from gooseberries--at all events in countries where grapes grow4 ,and the reason for this is that gooseberry juice is far scarcer1 and therefore more expensive than grape juice4 ,some few dozens may be made in ,england1 but to make sufficient gooseberry champagne to be profitable would require more berries than are grown in the country4 ,it would1 in fact1 require hundreds of tons of the fruit to pay the manufacturer4 ,lest my readers should be wearied of the subject of ,french wines1 ,i shall not particularize as to the burgundies1 but confine myself to the clarets of the country which are by far the more popular wines in ,england--even when they are artificially manufactured1 in ,spain1 and elsewhere4 8,the wines that be made in ,bordeaux10 wrote ,gervase ,markham1 in the middle of the seventeenth century1 8are called ,gascoyne wines1 and you shall know them by their hazel hoopes1 and the most be full gadge1 and sound wines40 ,evidently adulteration's artful aid was but little employed in those days4 #acc 8,see that in your choice of ,gascoine wines10 continues ,gervase1 in his minute direction to the overwrought 8housewife10 8that your ,clarret wines be faire coloured1 and bright as a ,rubie1 not deepe as an ,ametist2 for though it may shew strength1 yet it wants neatnesse4 ,if your ,clarret wine be faint1 and have lost his color1 then take a fresh hogshead with his fresh lees which was very good wine1 and draw your wine into the same1 then stop it close and tight1 and lay it a foretake for two or three daies that the lees may run through it1 then lay it up till it be fine1 and if the colour be not perfit1 draw it into a red wine hogshead 4 4 4 and if your ,clarret wine have lost his colour1 take a pennyworth of ,damsens0 ha6 what is this8 8,or else blacke ,bullesses1 as you see cause1 and stew them with some red wine of the deepest colour1 and make thereof a pound or more of sirrup1 and put it into a cleane glasse1 and after into the hogshead of ,clarret wine2 and the same you may likewise doe unto red wine if you please40 ,ahem6 ,evidently they did know something about adulteration in the seventeenth century4 ,it is a common idea that only a very few clarets are entitled to the prefix 8,chteau40 ,the truth is very different4 ,the district on the south bank of the ,gironde simply teems with chteaux1 of a kind4 ,for miles you cannot go a few hundred yards in any direction without seeing or passing two or three2 each with its vineyards and cellars and special labels1 and more or less unblemished reputation4 ,there is ,chteau #acd ,latour1 and there is 7or may be7 the ,chteau ,smith4 ,did ,i choose to buy a cottage in that district1 grow my own grapes1 and make my own wines1 ,i should be fully entitled to label them 8,chteau ,gubbins10 and incur no penalty by so doing4 ,but please do not pick the ripe grapes1 although you may be sorely tempted by the sight of dozens of bunches separated from the vines by their sheer weight1 and lying in the furrows4 ,plenty of people do commit this sort of theft1 for there be hundreds of the rough element who visit the ,mdoc country4 ,the 8,hooligans0 and gamins of ,bordeaux drift here at picking-time just as the poor of ,london drift into the county of ,kent during the hopping season4 ,they are not loved1 but they have to be endured4 ,somebody must pick the grapes1 and after all a few depredations will not ruin the grower any more than do the strawberry-pickers in the south of ,england 8break0 the growers1 by adopting their usual plan3 8three in the mouth1 one in the basket40 ,the claret-cellars are not nearly as far beneath the earth as are those in the region about ,rheims4 ,nor are they as amusing4 ,there is no 8pop1 pop0 down here1 no danger of wounds and lacerations from flying splinters of glass4 ,the principal objects of interest are the cobwebs which are piled up all over the place like dusky curtains4 ,it is not well to sample too many glasses which may be offered you of the wine of the country4 ,for the samples are taken from the new1 immature wine1 and are suggestive of #ace pains and disturbances below the belt4 ,the head cellarman1 portly and urbane like his brother of ,rheims1 will watch your face closely as you taste his novelties1 and will invariably ask your opinion of it4 ,but the wise visitor will not be too opinionative on the subject4 ,i have noticed that the man who says the least is accounted the most knowing1 whether he be inspecting the contents of a cellar1 or of a stable4 ,and believe me1 there is as much rubbish talked about wine as about horses4 ,still1 in sampling new champagne you may praise indiscriminately1 without being accounted an absolute dunce2 whilst with claret it is altogether different4 ,the wine varies exceedingly with the vintage2 and none but an expert and accomplished palate may dare to say what is good1 what is bad1 and what is mediocre4 ,is it necessary to state that claret was not drunk1 on ordinary occasions1 by the ,ancient ,britons8 ,i trow not4 ,and ,i fancy the wines of the noble old ,romans partook more of the nature of burgundies than clarets4 ,in ,england the wines of ,mdoc have never been fully appreciated until during the latter half of the present century1 when the taste for port began to die out1 with the good port itself4 ,and as ,i writhe1 occasionally1 in the throes of gout1 ,i bethink me of the merciless law delivered unto ,moses1 which provides that the sins of the fathers shall be visited upon their descendants1 even unto the third and fourth generation4 ,for the good old three-and-four-bottle men of eighty years ago1 and farther back than that1 certainly laid #acf the foundations for much of the trouble at this end of the century4 ,still there be doctors who actually recommend port wine as a gout-fuge4 ,and it is certainly safer to drink a little good port--matured in the wood1 and innocent of beeswing--an you be a podagric subject1 than some of the clarets which1 thanks to the enterprise of the late ,mr4 ,w4 ,e4 ,gladstone1 are within the reach of the slenderest purse4 ,do not smoke whilst drinking claret1 or port1 either4 ,nothing destroys the flavour of red wine so effectually as the flavour of a cigar4 ,one of the greatest 8sells0 ever experienced by an expectant party of claret judges--of whom ,i posed as one--was after this fashion4 ,our host had inherited a pipe of ,chteau ,lafitte '#fd1 which had been duly bottled off4 ,we had enjoyed a nice plain little dinner--a bit of crimped cod1 a steak1 and a bird--in order the better to taste the luscious wine4 ,after dinner bottle number one made its appearance2 and as they sipped1 and prepared to sing hymns of praise1 the jaws of the guests fell4 ,and a great cry uprose3 8,pricked 60 #acg ,,chapter3 ,,xiii ,,the ,,old ,,wines ,,and ,,the ,,new ,decline and fall of port -- ,old topers -- ,a youthful wine-bibber -- ,the whisky age succeeds the port age -- 8,jeropiga0 -- ,landladies' port -- ,a monopoly -- ,port v4 gout -- ,a quaint breakfast in ,reading -- ,about nightcaps -- ,sherry an absolutely pure wine -- ,except when made within the four miles' radius -- ,treading the grapes -- 8,yeso0 -- ,pliny pops up again -- 8,lime in the sack0 -- ,what the ,lancet says -- 8,old ,sherry0 -- ,faux pas of a ,general -- ,about vintages4 ,on the decline and fall of port wine volumes might be written4 ,at the same time ,i am not the man who is going to write them4 ,according to early recollections1 the conversation of my elders was limited to hunting1 racing1 and the wines of ,oporto4 ,the man who had 8 '#bj10 or 8,comet10 port in his cellars was a man to be cultivated1 and dined with2 whilst 8 '#cd0 and 8 '#dg0 men were next in demand4 ,and this was after the era of the three-and-four-bottle heroes1 of whose deeds ,i have heard my father speak1 almost with bated breath2 how1 after the retirement of the ladies1 to discuss tea and scandal by themselves1 the dining-room door would be locked by the host himself1 who would #ach pocket the key thereof4 ,many of the guests slept where they fell1 8repugnant to command10 like the sword of ,pyrrhus1 whilst others would be fastened in the interior of their chariots at a later hour4 ,even in the late fifties1 the estimable divine with whom ,i was studying the beauties of the classics1 would on the frequent occasion of a dinner-party provide one bottle of port per head1 for his guests1 in addition to hock1 champagne1 and sherry2 and the writer1 then a boy of fifteen1 was included amongst the 8heads40 ,but as the stone age succeeded the ice age1 as the iron age succeeded the stone age1 and as the gold age1 and the railway age1 and the rotten company age succeeded the iron age1 so have the whisky age1 and the 8small bottle0 age1 and the gin-and-bitters age almost wiped out the age when man drank1 talked1 and thought port4 ,our ancestors were immoderate in their potations but1 as far as wine went1 these were but rarely indulged in until after sundown1 although the ,briton would frequently wash his breakfast down with ale of the strongest4 ,and it is difficult to believe that the evil habit of 8nipping10 at all hours of the day1 which now prevails in some circles--a habit which is mainly due to the break-neck pace at which life is pursued--is either more conducive to health or intellectuality1 or morality than the after-dinner debauch of a century ago4 ,the 8hot and heady0 wine is 7or1 rather1 was7 produced chiefly in a mountainous district of ,portugal called ,cima de ,douro4 ,the wine is largely mixed with spirit even during #aci fermentation1 the proper colour being given by a mixture known as jeropiga1 which is a preparation of elder-berries1 molasses1 raisin juice1 and spirit4 ,the wine which is made within the ,metropolitan ,police ,district1 for the special benefit of landladies1 infirmaries1 and she-choristers1 is also treated with a similar mixture1 with the addition of a little logwood-extract2 but in fashionable quarters the mixture is not known as jeropiga1 a name which would probably affect the sale4 ,port wine was known in ,england before the year #agjj1 but was not in much demand4 ,from the year mentioned till #ahbf the export trade was a monopoly in the hands of ,english merchants4 ,the effect of this monopoly was to increase the price in ,england1 and to gradually deteriorate the quality4 ,exports from ,oporto have decreased in a marked way for the last forty years or so2 and although there is still some demand1 and some decent wine left1 the 8hot and heady0 concoction whether dry or fruity1 a lady's wine1 or a military ditto1 is gradually leaving us4 ,the pity of it6 ,and simultaneously with its departure comes the pronouncement of the medical profession that port 7with the exception of the 8old crusted0 brand7 does not encourage gout to abide within the human frame4 ,i may fairly claim to have been a 8port man0 all my life1 and never1 when serving ,her ,majesty1 overlooked my orthodox allowance of the 8black strap0 purchased with the ,prince ,regent's allowance4 ,nevertheless ,i am not going to recommend this description of wine as an ideal breakfast drink2 although very early in #adj life ,i once made trial of it at nine o'clock one morning4 ,this was in the good town of ,reading1 in company with a schoolmate or two4 ,we were on our way home for the holidays1 and had been entrusted1 for the first part of the journey1 to the care of the ,french master4 ,him we had evaded for the time being--he was much interested in the manufacture of sweet biscuits--and marching boldly into the best inn's best room1 we demanded bread and cheese and a bottle of the most expensive port on the wine-list4 ,schoolboy-like our fancy turned to quaintness in the matter of meals2 and ,i am bound to add that the state of our health was not one whit improved by this weird breakfast4 ,as for the ,french master1 no sooner had he run us to earth1 than but that part of the story is too painful to tell4 ,one of the oldest winter beverages known to civilization is ,bishop1 a composition of port wine and spices of which it has been written3-- ,three cups of this a prudent man may take2 ,the first of these for constitution's sake1 ,the second to the girl he loves the best1 ,the third and last to lull him to his rest4 ,and an effectual luller is this ,bishop4 ,make several incisions in the rind of a lemon1 stick cloves in the incisions1 and roast the lemon at a slow fire4 ,put small but equal quantities of #ada cinnamon1 cloves1 mace1 and all-spice into a saucepan1 with half a pint of water2 let it boil until reduced one-half4 ,boil one bottle of port wine2 burn a portion of the spirit out of it by applying a lighted paper to the saucepan4 ,put the roasted lemon and spice into the wine1 stir it well1 and let it stand near the fire ten minutes4 ,rub a few lumps of sugar on the rind of a lemon1 put the sugar into a bowl with the juice of half a lemon 7not roasted71 pour the wine into it1 grate some nutmeg into it1 sweeten to taste1 and serve with the lemon and spices floating on the surface4 ,to sum up1 the decline and fall of port in ,british estimation may be said to be due1 mainly1 to the following causes3 inferiority of most of the modern vintages1 the introduction of whisky1 the present taste for lighter wines1 such as the cheaper clarets and burgundies1 with the wines of ,germany and ,italy1 and a sort of 8boom0 in wines from ,australia and ,california4 ,these last-named1 however1 are but seldom seen at the tables of the wealthy2 and thus far the demand for the productions of gallant little ,wales have not been in any great request1 although the demand is said to be equal to the supply4 ,sherry1 the 8sack0 which was said to cheer the heart of ,sir ,john ,falstaff and other of ,shakespeare's heroes1 is1 like port1 a light of other days4 ,like the wine of ,portugal1 also1 its exportation has for many years been in the hands of ,english settlers4 ,the following startling statistics have been published about these exports1 which statistics speak for themselves3 ,the output to ,england in #ahia was #b1ace1ifi gallons1 or sixty-four per cent #adb less than in #ahgc1 which was the 8record0 sherry year4 ,and although many efforts have been made to stem the ebb1 the last seven years have shewn a steady decrease in the exports4 ,yet1 according to the best authorities1 sherry is not only the purest1 but the most wholesome of all wines4 ,of course1 in making this statement the wine of ,spain1 the vino de ,jerez is implied1 and not the home-made productions for the malefit of those who study economy without due regard to digestion4 ,strictly speaking1 sherry means ,jerez 7pronounced 8herreth07 wine4 ,but ,manzanilla1 a wine which is made at ,st4 ,lucas1 and ,montilla which comes from a town south of ,cordova1 may come under the same category4 ,and with a view of shewing the wholesomeness of sherry it is stated1 by no less an authority than the ,lancet1 that it is the only wine enjoined in the preparations of the wines of the ,british ,pharmacopia1 with two exceptions--viz4 vinum ferri citratis1 and vinum quininae1 which are made with orange wine4 ,therefore it is certain that the sufferer from gout1 for whom vinum colchici is prescribed1 may swallow a proportion of the juice of the grape1 and1 possibly1 a hair of the dog which bit him4 ,this naturally recalls the old story of the sherry which was sent to a former ,lord ,chesterfield as a panacea for his ailment1 and the curt reply sent3 8,sir1 ,i have tried your sherry1 and prefer the gout40 ,there are several types of sherries1 according to the different characters developed4 ,these are known by several distinguishing terms #adc comprehending the characters and specific qualities of the wine from one end to the other of a scale ranging from delicate and light wines to rich1 generous1 and dark-coloured wines4 ,between a straw-coloured ,vino de ,pasto and the very fine ,old ,east ,india ,brown--the sherry which two decades ago was in enormous demand at such old-fashioned hostelries as the 8,rainbow0 in ,fleet ,street1 ere the reign of gin-and-bitters--there is a vast difference1 both in colour and flavour4 ,broadly1 however1 sherry may be divided into two classes--fino1 a light-coloured1 delicate light wine of the ,amontillado type1 and the oloroso1 a full-bodied1 highly-developed wine4 ,the sherry grapes are collected and placed in large panniers on the backs of mules and conveyed to the press-houses4 ,the press is of very primitive construction1 and is identical with those used in ancient history4 ,it consists simply of a wooden trough about ten feet square1 provided in the centre with a screw press1 which is used after the treading by foot power is done1 to get the last drop of juice out of the crushed mass4 ,rather less than a ton of grapes serves for one pressing1 and the idea that this is done with the naked feet of the ,spanish peasantry is a popular error4 ,sherry is not kneaded like ,german bread4 ,men clad in light clothing and shod with wooden clogs1 with nails on the soles and heels1 pointing in a slanting direction1 proceed to tread the grapes in a most methodical manner1 proceeding row by row1 each row being of the width of the nailed sole of the clog4 ,after the grapes have been trodden over for #add the first time1 i4e4 partly crushed and bruised1 a measured quantity of sulphate of lime 7,yeso7 is sprinkled over the sticky mass--now ,i have gone so far perhaps 'twould be as well to complete the narrative1 although it is not always wise to enquire too closely into the interior economy of wine presses1 or kitchens4 ,this sulphate of lime is a pure native earth1 found in the neighbourhood of ,jerez1 and is burnt before being mixed with the grapes4 ,how many sherry drinkers1 ,i wonder1 know how largely mother earth enters into their pet tipple8 ,the idea1 certainly1 does not seem a nice one1 but this mixing of lime with sherry is a very ancient custom indeed4 ,pliny--where should we modern bookmakers be without dear old ,pliny8--mentions the custom as an ancient ,african one4 ,and in days of yore it must be remembered that ,africa was not entirely populated by cannibals and dervishes1 but was the home of many who lived wisely and well4 8,there's lime in the sack60 is a sentence put into the mouth of ,falstaff4 ,in modern days the process has become known as 8plastering10 from the fact that plaster-of-,paris consists principally of sulphate of lime or burnt gypsum4 8,it is interesting10 says the ,lancet1 8to surmise the origin of this very ancient custom4 ,that it had some intelligent basis admits of no doubt4 ,some think that it had its origin in the fact being noticed that when the grape juice was fermented in alabaster vessels or in marble tanks the wine was better1 it clarified quicker1 and #ade developed character more satisfactorily4 ,others regard the addition of sulphate of lime as convenient from a mechanical point of view during the pressing2 it was necessary when the grapes were wetter than usual in order to bind the residuary mass together4 ,we do not incline to this view40 ,as the ,lancet devotes a considerable space to the exposition of the view to which it does incline ,i may be excused from quoting it in full--more especially as there be tables of percentages1 and complicated mathematical calculations in said exposition4 ,but it is proved to the satisfaction of the ,lancet that 8lime in the sack0 is matter in the right place4 ,and although to an uneducated mind lime suggests such terrifying developments of tarda podagra as chalk-stones1 possibly the action of the grapes on the lime renders it innocuous4 ,it is a curious fact that sherry in keeping develops a slight increase of alcohol as the time advances4 ,all spirit added to sherry1 however1 is obtained from wine itself1 corn-spirit in ,spain being quite a superfluity1 since wine-spirit can be produced so cheaply and in unlimited quantity4 ,moreover the importation of ,german spirit into ,spain is made practically impossible by a prohibitive duty4 ,still1 unless rumour lies1 some ,spanish wines receive the ,german spirit after exportation2 so ,spain 8gets there just the same40 ,here is an item of news which should inspire confidence in the sceptic4 8,good brandy--i4e4 a genuine wine-distilled #adf spirit--is being produced in ,spain in commercial quantities which it is to be hoped will successfully compete with the stuff erroneously called brandy1 not to say ,cognac1 but of which not a drop has been derived from the grape40 ,in my researches into the manufacture of port and sherry1 ,i have come across no mention of the phylloxera4 ,i am1 therefore1 halting between the beliefs1 either that the ,spaniards and ,portuguese understand vermin better than do the ,french1 or that the 8vine-louse0 has her own reasons for keeping out of ,spain and ,portugal4 ,forty years ago an estimable ,irish nobleman was known as 8,old ,sherry10 from his partiality to that wine4 ,and thirty years ago ,i was once seated at the table of a ,general of ,division1 up at ,simla4 ,my right-hand neighbour was a son of this same nobleman1 but our host1 apparently1 did not know this--or had forgotten the fact4 ,at all events1 during a lull in the conversation1 the ,general 7who had a voice like sharpening a saw7 rapped out3 8,by the way1 ,captains--you say you've been quartered in ,ireland--did you ever meet #8,old ,sherry' there80 ,a subaltern can't very well throw a dinner-roll at a ,general or stick a carving-fork into his leg2 but that is what ,i1 personally1 felt like doing4 ,in medival times a sufficient quantity of wine for the needs of the inhabitants was made in gallant little ,wales2 and the idea of reviving the industry occurred to the ,marquis of ,bute1 who has done so much for the welfare of ,cardiff #adg and the neighbourhood4 ,the vineyards are on the site of the old ones1 facing south1 and the vines were planted twenty years ago1 and are very hardy4 ,there is no reason why they should not be propagated to almost any extent1 and there is abundant scope for the extension of the vineyards and a proportionate increase in the yield of wine4 ,the vintages of #ahhe1 #ahij1 and #ahia are marked in ,messrs4 ,hatch1 ,mansfield and ,co4's list as 8,all sold10 and although the vintage of '#ih1 owing to the long spell of dry weather1 does not promise particularly well1 the ,marquis is no more unfortunate in this respect than most other vine-growers4 ,vintages4 ,as my readers may not all be connoisseurs in the matter of wines1 a few words on the subject of vintages may be appropriate1 at the close of this chapter4 ,with regard to champagnes1 the good years are '#fe1 '#fh1 '#gd 7especially good71 '#gh1 '#hj1 '#hd1 '#he1 '#hg 7somewhat light in body71 '#hi1 '#ib1 and '#ic4 ,all the other vintages since '#fe have turned out more or less badly2 and there have been no good vintages since '#ic4 ,one of the largest and best vintages of claret on record is that of '#ge1 which ranks with the older ones of '#dh1 '#eh1 and '#fd4 '#gg is fair1 and between that year and '#hh there was no vintage of particular merit4 '#ic wine is good1 and this year furnished the largest yield since '#ge4 '#id wine is exceptionally bad4 ,during the five years #adh from '#hb to '#hf the merits of the wines were completely destroyed by mildew4 ,the burgundy vintages have been good since '#hd4 ,as for ports1 the drinkable wines 7since '#cd7 are those of '#da1 '#dg 7one of the finest wines ever known71 '#ea 7exceptionally good71 '#eb1 '#ec 7fine and fruity71 '#ed1 '#eh1 '#fc1 '#fh1 '#gj1 '#gb1 '#ge1 '#gh 7exceptionally fine71 '#ha1 '#hd1 '#hg 7the best since '#gh71 and '#if which 8shews promise40 ,the worst years are '#ee1 '#ef1 '#eg1 '#ei1 '#fd1 '#ff1 '#fi1 '#ga1 '#gd1 '#gf1 '#gg1 '#gi1 '#hj1 '#hb1 '#hc1 '#hf1 '#hh1 '#ia1 '#ic 7exceptionally bad71 '#id1 and '#ie4 ,the above statistics are also from ,messrs4 ,hatch1 ,mansfield and ,co4's list4 #adi ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,the ,,long ,,and ,,the ,,short ,,of ,,it ,the ,long ,drink -- ,cremorne ,gardens -- ,hatfield -- ,assorted cocktails -- ,brandy-and-,soda -- ,otherwise ,stone ,fence -- ,bull's milk -- ,a burglar's brew -- ,more cocktails -- ,a 8swizzle0 -- ,l',amour ,pousse -- ,a corpse reviver -- ,a golden slipper -- ,a heap of comfort4 ,our grandfathers knew not the ,long ,drink2 the chief reason for this fact being that arated water1 and consequently large tumblers1 had not been invented4 ,and soda-water--one of the most ineffectual restoratives ,i know--was originally employed1 under its pet name 8sober water10 as a pick-me-up4 ,the ,long ,drink came in1 ,i fancy1 with ,cremorne4 ,at primval ,vauxhall men still refreshed themselves with glasses of alleged sherry1 and with rummers of brandy-and-water--a flat1 stale1 and unprofitable potion1 which nobody who is in complete possession of his faculties thinks of imbibing nowadays4 ,let us now run over a few recipes which require large tumblers to hold the drinks4 ,and we will commence with 8cobblers10 those seductive warm-weather importations from the ,united ,states4 #aej ,catawba ,cobbler1 so called because ,catawba 7which is a ,californian wine and but little known in this island of ours7 is seldom used in its concoction4 ,champagne is an excellent substitute1 whilst a cheaper one is the ,italian wine1 sparkling ,asti4 ,dissolve one teaspoonful of sifted sugar in one tablespoonful of water in a tumbler2 add two glasses of ,catawba1 or ,asti1 or champagne1 and fill the tumbler with crushed ice4 ,shake1 ornament with a slice of orange or pine-apple1 and drink through straws4 ,moselle ,cobbler4 ,one glass of sparkling moselle in a large tumbler1 a spot of old brandy1 sugar to taste1 a slice of lemon1 and filled up with crushed ice4 ,but there is a sameness in the manufacture of cobblers1 in which almost every known wine1 or strong water1 may be used1 with the other ingredients1 ice1 sugar1 slices of lemon or orange1 and water 7not much water7 added4 8,the secret of making 8,hatfield10 writes an invaluable authority1 8is supposed to be a secret only known to the manager at ,the ,oval4 ,we used to drink at the ,old ,winchester ,music ,hall an imitation1 composed of two bottles of soda-water to one ginger-beer1 a quartern of ,old ,tom and a half-quartern of noyeau1 duly iced40 ,most 8cocktails0 come under the heading of #aea 8,short ,drinks10 and will be found duly scheduled1 farther on4 ,here1 however1 is a long 'un4 ,saratoga ,cocktail4 ,put into a large tumbler twenty drops of pine-apple syrup1 twelve of ,angostura bitters1 twenty of maraschino1 and a wine-glass of old brandy2 nearly fill the glass with pounded ice1 and mix well4 ,add two or three strawberries and a shred of thin lemon-peel1 and top up with champagne4 ,arctic ,regions4 ,large tumbler4 ,quarter of a pint of milk1 wine-glass of sherry1 and liqueur-glass of old brandy4 ,fill up with pounded ice1 and sweeten to taste4 ,shake well1 dust with cinnamon1 and suck through a straw4 ,brandy-and-,soda4 ,every ,saturday morning1 of all respectable newsagents1 in the pink paper1 price ,pshaw6 ,what am ,i thinking about8 ,this concoction is also known in ,america as 8,stone ,wall0 7,why871 and used to be known in ,her ,majesty's dominions in ,asia as a 8,peg0--simply because every dose swallowed was said to represent a peg in the coffin being manufactured for the swallower4 ,it is unnecessary to give any recipe for this mixture1 the proportion of the ingredients varying with the inclination1 disposition1 indisposition1 state of health1 or pocket1 of the swallower4 ,but above all let your ingredients be of the best4 ,there is only one thing worse #aeb than bad brandy1 and that is bad soda-water4 ,avoid the cheap stuff with the little glass stoppers1 as you would the tipstaff4 ,brandy ,daisy4 ,put into a large tumbler the juice of a small lemon1 half a tablespoonful of sifted sugar1 and dissolve with one squirt of arated water from a syphon4 ,add a liqueur-glass of yellow chartreuse1 nearly fill the glass with crushed ice1 and add one wine-glassful of old brandy4 ,stir well and strain4 ,bull's ,milk ,a large tumbler4 ,one teaspoonful of sifted sugar1 half a pint of milk1 one-third of a wine-glassful of old rum1 one wine-glassful of old brandy4 ,add ice1 shake1 strain into another glass1 and dust with cinnamon and nutmeg4 ,julap1 or ,julep4 ,behold this cordial ,julap here1 ,that flames and dances in his crystal bounds1 ,with spirits of balm and fragrant syrups mixt4 ,although the mint julep is compounded and used principally in the continent of ,america1 the original 8julap0 is a ,persian word1 signifying a sweet potion4 ,john ,quincey1 the author of a dictionary on ,physic1 describes julap as 8an extemporaneous form of medicine1 made of simple and compound water1 sweetened1 and serves for a vehicle to other forms not so convenient to take alone40 #aec ,the simple water is usually omitted nowadays4 ,and here is one recipe for a ,mint ,julep4 ,pound a quantity of ice quite fine1 enough to half fill a large tumbler4 ,add two teaspoonfuls of sugar4 ,then add a wine-glass of old brandy1 half a wine-glass of old rum1 and two or three sprigs of mint4 ,stir well together1 and drink through a straw4 ,another way to make a ,mint ,julep4 ,put into a large tumbler two and a half tablespoonfuls of water1 a tablespoonful of sugar1 and two or three sprigs of mint pressed well into the sugar-and-water to extract the flavour2 add one and a half wine-glassfuls of brandy1 fill up with crushed ice1 shake well1 draw the sprigs of mint to the top of the glass with the stems downwards1 and decorate with berries in season and small slices of orange2 dust with a little sugar1 and dash with rum4 ,serve with a straw4 ,mint julep1 it may be added1 is supposed to have been introduced into ,england by ,captain ,marryat1 the nautical novelist4 ,pine-apple ,julep4 ,this is a beverage for bookmakers and company-promoters only4 ,all others should substitute pine-apple syrup from the tin for the slice of pine-apple4 ,large tumbler4 ,slice of pine-apple4 ,the juice of half an orange1 ten drops of maraschino1 ten drops #aed of raspberry syrup1 half a wine-glassful of gin2 half fill the tumbler with crushed ice1 shake well1 and top up with champagne4 ,drink through straws4 ,saratoga ,brace-up4 ,large tumbler1 tablespoonful sifted sugar1 twelve drops of ,angostura bitters1 twelve drops of lemon juice1 six drops of lime juice1 twelve drops of anisette1 one fresh egg1 and a wine-glass of old brandy4 ,half fill the glass with crushed ice1 shake thoroughly1 strain into another large tumbler1 and fill up with ,seltzer or ,apollinaris water4 ,a ,burglar's ,brew4 ,amongst the kind and generous correspondents who have furnished me with matter for this work is an ,austrian gentleman1 who1 apparently1 holds some appointment under ,government4 ,he writes3 8,our local man in blue 7or rather in green1 in ,prussia7 and ,i have just driven twenty miles a burglar to the police-station4 ,bobby and ,i being both new to this part of the world1 did not know the road1 but our passenger directed us quite well1 and actually rang the bell himself at the gaol2 after which he most properly wished a very happy new year to the head constable1 with whom he seemed to be quite on sitting terms4 8,but the point of this is to tell you of a very decent drink1 mixed by #8,billy' 0--presumably the burglar--8himself1 on our journey--a most acceptable #8gargle1' with two feet of snow and a beastly east wind4 #aee 8#b pints lager beer1 brought to boiling point4 #c glass rhum4 #c glass cognac4 #h lumps sugar4 #a lemon4 8,i am afraid the poor fellow won't get another taste of it for five years40 ,lager beer and 8rhum0 does not read particularly delectable4 ,but there is no accounting for tastes2 and possibly the ,burglar's ,brew may find favour amongst some of my young friends4 ,reserving the right to re-enter upon the subject of long drinks1 ,i will now touch upon a short one or two4 ,imprimis1 ,cocktails1 another brand of beverages which our ,american cousins have introduced into the old country4 ,i am bound to add that the beverage in question has not altogether 8frozen on0 here1 although the ,american ,bar has become an institution in all fashionable and much-frequented quarters4 ,in the land of its birth the cocktail is said to be popular at shooting or fishing parties4 ,but on this side the host who wants his guests to shoot straight does not ply them freely with fancy drinks4 ,brandy ,cocktail4 ,to save wearisome repetition of words1 it should be stated at the outset that the cocktail is almost invariably mixed in a small tumbler1 in which the necessary crushed ice has been placed first4 #aef ,one wine-glass of brandy1 thirty drops of gum syrup1 six drops of ,angostura bitters1 and twenty drops of curaoa4 ,stir1 and shake well4 ,place a small shred of lemon-peel atop4 ,champagne ,cocktail4 ,one teaspoonful of sugar1 ten drops of ,angostura bitters1 a slice of pine-apple1 and a small shred of lemon-peel4 ,fill up with champagne1 mix1 and strain4 ,coomassie ,cocktail4 ,break the yolk of an egg into the tumbler1 and mix with it a teaspoonful of sugar2 add six drops of ,angostura bitters1 a small wine-glass of sherry1 and one-third of a glass of brandy4 ,shake and strain2 then dust with nutmeg and cinnamon4 ,jersey ,cocktail4 ,instead of crushed ice1 put two nice little blocks in the tumbler1 add one teaspoonful of sugar1 one teaspoonful of orange bitters1 and half a wine-glass of old brandy4 ,top up with bottled cider1 and mix with a spoon4 ,serve with a strawberry and a sprig of verbena atop4 ,manhattan ,cocktail4 ,half a wine-glass of ,italian vermouth1 half a wine-glass of rye whisky1 ten drops of ,angostura bitters1 and ten drops of curaoa4 ,shake and strain1 and place a small shred of lemon-peel atop4 #aeg ,bengal ,cocktail4 ,thirty drops of maraschino1 one teaspoonful of pine-apple syrup1 thirty drops of curaoa1 six drops of ,angostura bitters1 one wine-glass of old brandy4 ,mix1 etc41 and add peel4 ,newport ,cocktail4 ,two lumps of ice1 and a small slice of lemon in the tumbler1 add six drops of ,angostura1 half a wine-glass of noyeau1 and a wine-glass of brandy4 ,mix1 etc41 and add peel4 ,gin ,cocktail4 ,thirty drops of gum syrup1 ten drops of ,angostura1 one wine-glass of gin1 ten drops of curaoa4 ,mix1 etc41 and add peel4 ,a 8,swizzle10 which is well known in fashionable circles as a morning 8livener10 somewhat resembles the above concoction1 but is even more seductive and enthralling4 ,when ,i gave the recipe for this in ,cakes and ,ale1 it brought down upon my devoted head the horror and indignation of many of the good young critics of the superior dailies4 ,yet the swallow is harmless enough1 absolutely innocuous--save to the melancholy vapours4 ,and to shew my utter lack of appreciation of friendly warnings ,i append the same recipe in all its original beauty3-- #aeh ,crushed ice 7this is a welcome addition71 a wine-glassful of ,hollands1 a liqueur-glassful of curaoa1 three drops of ,angostura1 a little sugar1 and half a small bottle of ,seltzer water4 ,churn up the mixture with a swizzle-stick1 which can be easily made with the assistance of a short length of cane 7the ordinary school-treat brand71 a piece of cork1 a bit of string1 and a pocket-knife4 ,martini ,cocktail4 ,thirty drops of gum syrup1 thirty drops of orange bitters1 half a wine-glass of gin1 and half a wine-glass of vermouth2 fill with crushed ice1 shake1 strain1 and place a small piece of lemon-peel atop4 ,sherry ,cocktail is made in the same way as the above1 leaving out the gin and vermouth1 and substituting a wine-glass of sherry4 ,sunrise ,cocktail ,thirty drops of vanilla syrup1 ten drops of ,angostura1 two-thirds of a wine-glass of sherry and one-third of a wine-glass of brandy2 mix1 strain1 and add peel4 ,jockey-,club ,cocktail 7although it may seem high-treason to connect the ,jockey ,club with a cocktail74 ,thirty drops of gum syrup1 ten drops of ,angostura1 ten drops of raspberry syrup1 half a wine-glass #aei of gin1 and half a wine-glass of vermouth2 shake1 strain1 and add peel4 ,whisky ,cocktail is made in the same way as the above1 omitting the raspberry syrup1 gin1 and vermouth2 and this brings us to the end of cocktails4 ,there is a fancy drink which is known in different parts of the world under different names1 and some of the ingredients in which differ slightly4 ,in the ,mediterranean islands it is known as a ,knickerbein1 and this is the way to make it4 ,break into a small tumbler the yolk of one egg1 add one-third of a wine-glass of curaoa1 one-third of a wine-glass of maraschino1 and one-third of a wine-glass of brandy2 add pounded ice1 shake well1 and strain2 whisk the white of an egg to a stiff froth1 and place it on the top2 dust with pink sugar1 and suck through a straw4 ,in ,france there is a somewhat similar potion known as ,l',amour ,pousse1 which also figures under other names in different parts of the great continent of ,america1 and in the ,west ,indies4 ,take a spiral glass 7see that you get this7 and fill it one-third full of maraschino2 place carefully in it the unbeaten yolk of an egg4 ,surround this with #afj syrup of vanilla1 and fill up the glass with old brandy4 ,these ingredients must not mix2 and in order to prevent this1 pour them over the back of the bowl of a teaspoon into the glass4 ,brandy ,scaffa sounds ,amur'can1 and is4 ,here again the ingredients must not be allowed to commingle1 and the egg-yolk is omitted4 ,a quarter of a glass of raspberry syrup1 into a spiral glass1 and a like amount of maraschino and green chartreuse4 ,fill up--,i always make this in an old-fashioned champagne-glass1 and generally omit the raspberry syrup--with the best old brandy you can get4 ,corpse ,reviver is the same sort of drink1 with some difference in the ingredients4 ,a spiral glass1 filled with one-third maraschino1 one-third brandy1 and one-third curaoa4 ,if the corpse came my way and ,i loved it1 ,i should leave out the maraschino4 ,in ,golden ,slipper the egg-yolk reappears4 ,place the yolk of an egg in a spiral wine-glass1 half full of yellow chartreuse4 ,fill up with ,dantzicer goldwasser1 and do not let the ingredients mix4 ,this goldwasser is said to be the oldest liqueur known in ,europe1 having been introduced #afa into ,france by the ,italians in the time of ,catharine de ,medici4 ,its origin is undoubtedly ,italian1 and the colourless liquor made in ,dantzic1 with the fragments of gold leaf floating therein1 is a fiery imitation of the real thing4 ,one more short recipe to finish this chapter4 ,heap of ,comfort4 ,put into a small tumbler the yolk of one egg1 two-thirds of a wine-glass of sherry1 one-third of a wine-glass of brandy1 ten drops of curaoa1 and a teaspoonful of sugar4 ,add pounded ice1 shake well1 and strain into a coloured claret-glass4 ,dust over with nutmeg4 #afb ,,chapter ,,xv ,,still ,,harping ,,on ,,the ,,drink ,sangaree -- ,slings -- ,john ,collins -- ,smashes -- ,sour beverages -- ,home ,ruler -- ,burning brandy -- ,a prairie oyster -- ,a turkey ditto -- ,about negus1 for white-frock and black-mitten parties -- ,egg nogg -- ,a doctor -- ,a surgeon-major -- ,a new locomotive -- ,rumfustian -- ,pope -- ,bull's milk -- ,a bosom caresser -- ,the ,colleen ,bawn -- ,possets -- ,sir ,fleetwood ,fletcher4 8,sangaree0 is generally associated with soft-shell crabs and 8yellow ,jack02 nevertheless here are a few recipes for concocting the drink1 in its various forms4 ,ale ,sangaree4 ,put into a large tumbler a teaspoonful of sifted sugar1 and a tablespoonful of water to dissolve it4 ,add a small lump of ice1 and fill up with a mixture of bitter and ,burton ales4 ,dust with nutmeg4 ,this drink may also be served hot1 without the ice2 need it be added8 ,brandy ,sangaree4 ,put into a small tumbler one teaspoonful of sugar1 half a wine-glassful of water1 one wine-glassful #afc of brandy1 and fill up with crushed ice4 ,mix with a spoon1 dash the top with port wine1 and grated nutmeg4 ,gin ,sangaree is made in exactly the same way1 substituting ,old ,tom for brandy4 ,port ,wine ,sangaree4 ,a small tumbler1 a glass and a half of port1 and a teaspoonful of sugar4 ,add crushed ice1 shake well1 strain into another glass1 and dust with nutmeg4 ,porteree is made like ale sangaree1 with the substitution of porter for ale4 ,and in ,sherry ,sangaree the wine of ,spain takes the place of the wine of ,portugal4 ,slings can be made with brandy1 gin1 or whisky4 ,the ,americans mix a wine-glassful of the spirit with half a wine-glassful of water1 a teaspoonful of sifted sugar1 and a lump of ice4 ,in ,england soda-water is mixed with the spirit4 ,what we call a gin-sling is known in the ,united ,states as a ,john ,collins1 but in certain regimental messes this 8,john0 used not to be considered properly attired without #afd the addition of a little curaoa--the quantity varying with the effect it was intended to produce upon the unsuspecting guest4 ,occasionally1 at about sunrise1 boiling water was substituted for soda-water4 ,brandy ,smash4 ,put into a small tumbler half a tablespoonful of sifted sugar1 one tablespoonful of water and a wine-glassful of old brandy2 add crushed ice1 and shake well4 ,put in a sprig or two of mint1 with two slices of orange on the top1 and drink through a straw4 ,champagne ,smash4 ,small tumbler1 tablespoonful of sugar2 ice1 and fill up with champagne4 ,add mint1 as in above recipe1 and serve with a straw4 ,gin ,smash4 ,small tumbler1 teaspoonful of sugar1 half a wine-glassful of water1 and a wine-glassful of gin4 ,add ice1 mint1 and a slice or two of orange4 ,serve with a straw4 ,whisky ,smash is made in the same way1 substituting whisky 7,irish or ,scotch7 for gin4 ,santa ,cruz ,smash4 ,put into a small tumbler one teaspoonful of sugar1 half a wine-glassful of water1 and a wine-glassful of ,santa ,cruz1 or white rum4 ,add crushed ice1 and mint4 ,serve with a straw4 #afe ,apple ,jack ,sour is but seldom called for in this tight little island4 ,in ,america it is made in a large tumbler1 with half a tablespoonful of sugar1 the juice of half a lemon1 a squirt of ,seltzer water from a syphon1 and a wine-glassful of old cider brandy4 ,nearly fill the glass with crushed ice1 and ornament with any fruit in season4 ,bourbon ,sour4 ,small tumbler1 one teaspoonful of sugar1 the juice and rind of a quarter of a lemon1 one wine-glassful of ,bourbon whisky4 ,add crushed ice1 shake well1 and strain4 ,brandy ,sour is exactly the same potion1 with the substitution of brandy for ,bourbon whisky4 ,and ,whisky ,sour is the same1 made with whisky4 ,at the ,bengal ,club1 ,calcutta1 the ,gin ,sour has attained to renown4 ,a large tumbler is used1 the juice of six limes is squeezed therein1 care being taken to remove the pips4 ,a wine-glassful of ,old ,tom is added1 then a liqueur-glassful of raspberry syrup1 three quarters of a liqueur-glassful of orange bitters1 a wine-glassful of water1 and three drops of ,angostura bitters4 ,nearly fill the tumbler with crushed ice1 and shake4 #aff ,sherry ,sour4 ,put into a small tumbler one teaspoonful of sugar1 the juice and rind of a quarter of a lemon1 one wine-glassful of sherry1 and nearly fill the tumbler with crushed ice4 ,shake1 strain1 and dash with strawberry syrup4 ,home ,ruler was a favourite drink at the bars of the ,house of ,commons1 during the reign of the ,uncrowned ,king4 ,the yolks of two eggs1 well beaten1 were placed in a large tumbler1 a little sifted sugar was added1 and a small tumblerful of hot milk was gradually stirred into the mixture4 ,last of all a large wine-glassful of 8,john ,jameson0 was added4 ,a curious recipe comes from ,switzerland1 an elaborate method of ,burning ,brandy1 or any other spirit but gin4 ,cut the top off a lemon1 and hollow out the interior with the handle-end of a spoon4 ,place the empty cone thus formed by the skin on the top of a large wine-glass4 ,fill the cone with brandy1 rum1 or whisky2 take a fork1 balance a piece of sugar on the prongs1 set the spirit alight1 and hold the sugar over the flame until it has melted into the cone4 ,then take a skewer1 and pierce a small hole in the base of the cone4 ,when all the spirit has trickled into the glass1 throw the cone away1 and drink the result4 #afg 8,this process10 says my informant1 writing from ,davos1 8sanctifies good liquor1 and makes inferior ditto distinctly welcome40 ,a ,prairie ,oyster serves as a valuable restorative of vital power4 ,the origin of this popular pick-me-up is said to be as follows3-- 8,some years since three men were encamped on ,texas ,prairie1 #ejj miles from the sea-coast1 when one of them was sick unto death with fever1 and was frantically crying out for oysters2 he was quite sure that if he could only have an oyster or two he would be cured4 ,after much thought as to how they were to procure what he wanted1 one of them1 having procured some prairie hens' eggs1 not far from the camp1 broke one1 and putting the yolk into a glass1 sprinkled it with a little salt and pepper1 adding a little vinegar1 and gave it to his sick companion1 who declared it was just the thing he wanted2 and from that hour he began to get better1 and eventually got quite well40 ,turkey ,oyster is the yolk of a turkey's egg treated after the above fashion1 and is said to be 8greatly in vogue with athletes40 ,but if the athlete be wise he will not omit to swallow the white of the egg as well4 ,the name 8negus0 is suggestive of a children's party--as well as of the east coast of #afh ,africa2 'tis a comparatively harmless beverage1 said to have been invented by one ,colonel ,negus4 ,port ,wine ,negus4 ,put a pint of port wine into a jug1 and rub a quarter of a pound of sugar1 in lumps1 on the rind of a lemon2 then squeeze the juice of the lemon and strain it1 adding the sugar and lemon juice to the port wine1 with a little grated nutmeg4 ,add to this a quart of boiling water1 cover the jug1 and when cool the beverage will be fit for use4 ,sherry ,negus is made with an extra quarter of a pound of sugar2 and a wine-glassful of noyeau or maraschino may be added4 ,egg ,nogg is a bile-raiser1 which is made in a large tumbler1 and therefore comes under the heading of 8,long ,drinks40 ,beat up an egg with a tablespoonful of sifted sugar2 add one tablespoonful of boiling water1 one wine-glassful of brandy1 and one wine-glassful of rum4 ,fill up the tumbler with boiling milk1 mix well1 and dust with nutmeg4 ,sherry ,egg ,nogg ,one egg beaten up with a tablespoonful of sugar in a large tumbler1 two glasses of sherry2 fill up with boiling milk1 mix1 and dust with nutmeg4 8,in another place10 ,i gave the recipe for #afi ,a ,doctor1 which is a cold edition of the above1 and may also be made with brandy or whisky4 ,in ,a ,surgeon-,major1 which is a still more valuable--and more expensive--restorative1 two eggs are used1 and the tumbler is filled up with the choicest brand of champagne kept on the premises4 ,blue ,blazer is a 8grateful1 comforting0 drink in cold weather4 ,and it is advisable that the nerves of the mixer be in thoroughly good order1 and that he 7or she7 be steady of hand4 ,put into a silver cup1 which has been previously heated1 a wine-glassful of ,scotch whisky 7proof7 and one wine-glassful of boiling water2 set on fire1 and have ready another cup1 also heated1 and pass the blazing liquid from one cup to the other1 three or four times4 ,serve in a small tumbler with a little sugar and lemon4 ,if a good dispensing chemist be within easy reach1 the searcher after the hidden truth may try a ,locomotive4 ,beat two eggs with a little honey in a jug1 add a pinch of ground cloves and a liqueur-glass of curaoa2 then add1 beating all the time1 one pint of burgundy made boiling hot4 ,dust with nutmeg4 #agj ,rumfustian4 ,beat up in a large tumbler or jug the yolks of two eggs1 with a tablespoonful of sugar2 then take half a pint of ,burton ale1 one wine-glassful of gin1 one wine-glassful of sherry1 a little spice1 and the rind of a quarter of a lemon4 ,let the ale1 wine1 and gin1 mixed together1 come to the boil1 then pour into the egg mixture1 whisking rapidly2 serve hot1 with a dash of nutmeg atop4 ,pope is a compound of burgundy and brandy 7not too much brandy1 please7 with a little sugar added1 poured over two ,seville oranges1 roasted and cut into quarters4 ,the mixture is then boiled and strained4 ,but1 personally1 ,i am not partial to this pope1 which is even nastier when made with champagne4 ,bull's ,milk4 ,put into a large tumbler one teaspoonful of icing-sugar1 with half a pint of milk1 one-third of a wine-glassful of rum1 and two-thirds of a wine-glassful of brandy2 add crushed ice1 shake well1 strain into another glass1 and dust with cinnamon and nutmeg4 ,brandy ,champirelle is another importation from the land of the stars and stripes4 ,take a small tumbler and bestow therein one wine-glassful of brandy1 six drops of ,angostura bitters1 a liqueur-glassful of curaoa1 and some crushed ice4 ,shake well1 and strain4 #aga ,black ,stripe4 ,mix in a small tumbler one wine-glassful of ,santa ,cruz1 or white rum1 one tablespoonful of golden syrup1 and one tablespoonful of water2 fill the tumbler with crushed ice1 and shake well4 ,for a winter drink1 substitute boiling water for ice1 and grate a little nutmeg atop4 ,bosom ,caresser4 ,small tumbler1 one wine-glassful of sherry1 half a wine-glassful of brandy1 the yolk of an egg1 two teaspoonfuls of sugar1 and two grains of cayenne pepper4 ,add ice1 shake well1 strain1 and dust with nutmeg and cinnamon4 ,colleen ,bawn4 ,small tumbler1 one egg beaten with a teaspoonful of sugar1 one-third of a wine-glassful of yellow chartreuse1 and like quantities1 respectively1 of benedictine and rye whisky2 shake well1 strain1 and dust with cinnamon1 nutmeg1 and pink sugar4 ,although the word 8,posset0 suggests a bad cold in the head it may be noticed en route1 with other potions4 ,it is a medicated drink of some antiquity2 for among the numerous ,english authors who in some way or other speak of it1 the divine ,william has made one of his characters say3 8,we'll have a posset 4 4 4 at the latter end of a sea-coal fire40 ,and ,sir ,john ,suckling1 who died in #afda1 says in one of his poems3-- ,in came the bridesmaids with the posset4 #agb ,dr4 ,johnson describes posset as milk curdled with wine and other acids2 we may therefore infer that the preparation of sherry and curd which we call ,white ,wine ,whey is the ,milk ,posset of our ancestors4 ,put one pint of milk into a saucepan1 and when it boils pour in a gill of sherry2 boil it till the curd becomes hard1 then strain it through a fine sieve4 ,rub a few lumps of sugar on the rind of a lemon and put them into the whey2 grate a small quantity of nutmeg into it1 and sweeten to taste4 ,pepper ,posset4 ,the better to promote perspiration1 whole peppercorns are sometimes boiled in the whey4 ,a ,pepper ,posset was known to the learned and ingenious ,john ,dryden1 as will appear from the following lines written by him3-- ,a sparing diet did her health assure2 ,or sick1 a pepper posset was her cure4 ,cider ,posset4 ,pound the peel of a lemon in a mortar1 and pour on it one quart of fresh-drawn cider2 sweeten with lump-sugar1 add one gill of brandy and one quart of new milk4 ,stir the mixture well1 strain it through a hair sieve1 grate a little nutmeg over it1 and it is fit for use4 ,in a former chapter a recipe for #agc ,sack ,posset has been given4 ,and here is what ,sir ,fleetwood ,fletcher wrote on the same subject3-- ,from fam'd ,barbadoes1 on the western main1 ,fetch sugar1 ounces four2 fetch sack from ,spain ,a pint2 and from the ,eastern ,indian coast ,nutmeg1 the glory of our northern toast2 ,o'er flaming coals let them together heat ,till the all-conquering sack dissolve the sweet2 ,o'er such another fire put eggs just ten1 ,new-born from tread of cock and rump of hen2 ,stir them with steady hand and conscience pricking1 ,to see th' untimely end of ten fine chicken3 ,sir ,fleetwood6 ,sir ,fleetwood6 ,from shining shelf take down the brazen skillet1 ,a quart of milk from gentle cow will fill it2 ,when boil'd and cold1 put milk and sack to eggs1 ,unite them firmly like the triple league1 ,what1 again8 ,and on the fire let them together dwell ,till miss sing twice--you must not kiss and tell3 ,each lad and lass take up a silver spoon1 ,and fall on fiercely like a starv'd dragoon4 #agd ,,chapter ,,xvi 8,,apple ,,sass0 ,ancient ,british seider -- ,conducive to longevity -- ,the best made in ,normandy -- ,which develops into champagne -- ,and other popular and salubrious wines -- ,non-alcoholic cider -- ,a loathsome brew -- ,german manufacturers -- ,medical properties of apple juice -- ,away with melancholy -- ,the mill and the press -- ,pure wine -- ,norfolk cider -- ,gaymer's gout-fuge -- ,revival of the industry -- ,old process of cider-making -- ,improving the flavour -- ,boiled cider -- ,hippocras -- ,juniper cider -- ,an ancient cider-cup4 ,according to some chroniclers the ancient ,britons made cider--or 8seider0 as the poor ignoramuses wrote it--but it must have been nasty stuff according to our civilized ideas2 for until the ,romans came to visit us the apple was not cultivated in ,britain1 nor1 indeed1 any fruit or vegetable4 ,our blue forefathers were not particular as to what they ate or drank2 and ,i should think the fermented juice of wild or 8crab0 apples must have corroded the throats of the hardiest4 ,it is claimed for cider1 and perry1 that no fermented drinks do less hurt to the imbiber2 although one authority states that the man who #age drinks too much of either invariably falls on the back of his head1 which sounds rather dangerous4 ,whether the drinking of cider in moderation conduces to long life deponent sayeth not2 but no less an authority than ,lord ,bacon evidently thought so2 and in his ,history of ,life and ,death he tells of eight men dancing a ,morris-dance1 whose ages1 added together1 were #hjj years1 8tennants of one ,mannour0 belonging to the ,earl of ,essex1 and habitual cider-drinkers4 ,but the lengthening of the days of the imbiber depends1 in all probability1 upon the brand of cider4 ,i have tasted some varieties which were capable1 apparently1 of shortening life1 rather than of prolonging it2 and in parts of ,somersetshire1 even at the present day1 the locals--case-hardened and poison-proof to a man--swill a horrible decoction1 which would probably kill off an alien1 at long range1 most speedily and effectively4 ,cider was called 8cidre0 and 8sithere0 by fourteenth century writers2 and the word is said to be a corruption of the ,greek sikera1 used in the ,septuagint to translate the ,hebrew shekar1 usually rendered 8strong drink0 in the ,old ,testament4 8,the name of ,cider10 says one of these old writers1 8if from ,sikera1 is but a general name for an inebriating or an intoxicating drink1 and may argue their ignorance in those times of any other name than ,wine for that liquor or juice in the ,saxon or ,norman language1 either of those nations being unwilling 7it's probable7 to use a ,british name for so pleasing a drink1 they not affecting the ,britains1 made use of few of their #agf words2 but since that1 that wines have been imported from foreign parts in great quantities1 the ,english have been forced to make use of the old ,british name ,,seider1 or ,cider1 for distinction sake1 although the name vinum may be as proper for the juice of the apple as the grape1 if it be derived either from ,vi or ,vincendo1 or quasi ,divinum1 as one would have it4 ,also the vulgar tradition of the scarcity of foreign wines in ,england1 viz4 that ,sack1 which was then imported for the most part but from ,spain1 was sold in the apothecaries' shops as a cordial medicine2 and the vast increase in vineyards in ,france 7,ale and ,beer being usual drinks in ,spain and ,france in ,pliny's time7 is an argument sufficient that the name of ,wine1 might be attributed to our ,british ,cider1 and of vineyards to the places separated for the propagating the fruit that yields it40 ,as a matter of fact the best cider in the world is made in ,normandy4 ,and for what purpose do the ,normans make it8 ,to send to the ,champagne country to be sold to the unsuspecting tourist as the sparkling wine of that district4 ,this is solid truth4 ,hundreds of millions of gallons are made in ,normandy with the most scrupulous care1 under the supervision of experienced chemists1 and the bulk is eventually sold as champagne4 ,and not only champagne1 but claret1 white wines1 and even honest1 manly1 beautiful1 unsophisticated1 good old ,portuguese port1 owe their being in some instances to ,normandy apples2 the rich colour of the port being added by log-wood1 beet-juice1 #agg and the root of the rhatany4 ,in fact1 genuine port can be so closely imitated as to deceive many a good judge2 and it really seems wonderful that the ,british farmer does not go in for making port wine1 with apples so plentiful and cheap1 and beet1 mangels1 and elderberries so easy to cultivate4 ,in fact1 given the time1 and the materials1 ,i am convinced that ,i could produce an excellent '#ih wine for laying down1 for hospital purposes1 public rejoicings1 or miladi's boudoir4 ,cider1 like all other useful drinks1 can be1 and is1 imitated2 and ,bands of ,hope and other well-meaning but misguided associations are chiefly responsible for this4 ,what is known at ,sunday-school treats and ,salvation ,army marriage-feasts as 8non-alcoholic cider0 has been found1 on analysis1 to be 8a water solution of sugar and citric acid1 flavoured with apple essence40 ,it's the flavouring as does it4 8,harvest cider10 as home-made for the 8hands10 is dreadful stuff1 and absolutely unfit for human consumption4 ,apples which have fallen of themselves1 or been blown off the trees1 8windfalls10 are left on the ground to rot1 and be eaten of slugs and wasps2 and are then shovelled into the cider-mill1 together with leaves1 stalks1 slugs1 wasps1 dirt of all sorts1 spiders1 ear-wigs1 wire-worms1 8,daddy ,long-legs0-es1 and--other things2 the whole being converted into a species of 8hell-broth10 which would have done credit to the best efforts of the witches in ,macbeth1 when properly mixed4 ,for a long time the ,germans held aloof from #agh the manufacture of cider4 ,the good ,rhine wine1 and the flowing and flatulent lager of their own country1 were good enough for the ,teutonic palate4 ,but when it comes to a question of making money1 with the risk reduced to a minimum1 ,germany seldom 8gets left10 as the ,yankees say4 ,some of the inhabitants of the ,fatherland discovered1 about two decades ago1 that there was gelt in cider1 and since that time apples have been imported from ,france1 by train-loads1 for the purpose of being converted into cider4 ,germany now exports nearly twelve times as much of this fascinating beverage as does ,france2 and under whatever name it may figure in the bills--,german ,champagne1 ,military ,port1 pfel-wein1 or ,sparkling ,hock--away goes the apple juice to all parts of the civilized world1 including ,damascus1 ,pekin1 ,khartoum1 ,san ,francisco1 and ,shaftesbury ,avenue4 ,in ,frankfort-on-the-,maine alone there are more than fifty cider-factories1 and the industry brings the town at least half a million sterling per annum4 8,the fruits of the earth10 says the ancient chronicler quoted above1 8and especially of trees1 were the first food ordained for man to eat40 ,and yet ,i had always understood that it was for eating an apple that our first parents were evicted from the garden4 ,but to continue the quotation4 8,and by eating of which 7before flesh became his meat7 he lived to a far greater age than since any have been observed to have lived4 ,and of all the fruits our ,northern parts produce1 there's none more edible1 nor more wholesome than ,apples2 #agi which by the various preparations of the cook are become a part of our table entertainment almost throughout the year1 and are esteem'd to be very temperate and nourishing4 8,they relax the belly1 which is a very good property in them2 but the sweet more than the sharp4 ,they help concoction1 eaten after meat1 with a little bread3 you may be confident that an apple eaten after supper0--paste this in your hats1 ye revellers--8depresseth all offensive vapours that otherwise would offend the head1 and hinder sleep4 ,apples rosted1 scalded1 or otherwise prepared1 according to the skill of the operatour1 are good in many hot diseases1 against ,melancholy1 and the ,pleurisie4 8,but ,cider is much to be preferr'd1 it being the more pure and active part separated from the impure and feculent2 and without all1 peradventure1 is the most wholesome drink that is made in ,europe for our ordinary use1 as before is observed4 ,for its specifick vertues1 there is not any drink more effectual against the ,scurvy4 ,it is also prevalent against the ,stone1 and by its mundifying qualities is good against the diseases of the ,spleen1 and is esteem'd excellent against ,melancholy40 ,possibly the course of time has made us merrier than our forbears2 at all events 8melancholy0 is a disease for which no remedy is prescribed in the modern editions of the ,pharmacopia4 ,what with musical farces1 and ,arthur ,roberts1 and the means to purchase a 8livener0 next morning1 no citizen of ,london is justified in the possession of lowness of spirits4 #ahj ,making cider is easy enough1 but requires1 like all other manufactures1 care and a modicum of common sense4 ,and here let me join issue with those who maintain that the inferiority of ,english cider is due to the antiquated methods employed in making it4 ,in the first place ,i question the inferiority2 and in the second1 although it is a fact that there is very little difference between the methods of to-day and two hundred years ago1 we are more careful1 on the whole1 in the selection of the material4 ,far more important than complicated machinery is the proper choice of apples4 ,grow these in a scientific way1 and do not eat all the best for dessert4 ,the cider apple should be neither green nor over-ripe--and certainly not rotten like those used occasionally for the harvesters--free from injury 7and therefore not a 8windfall07 and just full ripe4 ,the selected fruit should be placed in a mill which breaks them up and pulps them2 the pulp is then put under a press1 and squeezed dry to the last drop4 ,the liquid is then left to ferment1 and this process should be very gradual1 and be closely watched4 ,finally the cider is drawn off1 the finest qualities being bottled1 and they may be regarded as pure wine4 ,at all events they are frequently sold 8as sich40 ,it is claimed that cider1 when pure and well made1 is not merely an extremely wholesome drink1 but a very helpful one to those who suffer from gout or rheumatism4 ,it is asserted that cider will even cure these painful disorders1 and that those who drink the juice of the apple are far less subject to aching joints and limbs than #aha other quaffers4 ,it is the 8malic acid0 in the liquor which is so inimical to these diseases2 and as a cider-drinker of considerable experience1 and a sad sufferer1 at times1 from both diseases1 ,i can safely say that there is no 8touch0 of either in the 8natural0 ,norfolk cider made by ,messrs4 ,gaymer--a dry wine which is very palatable1 and is one of the best and the most wholesome of beverages4 ,cider at its strongest does not contain a large percentage of alcohol1 and its makers contend that its qualities are more health-giving and far less heady than those of any other liquor consumed in ,england4 ,according to ,mr4 ,radcliffe ,cooke1 an enthusiast on the subject1 the revival in the cider industry dates from #ahij1 and there is every hope that that industry will flourish more and more1 through the centuries4 ,the recognized cider fruit may be divided into 8bitter-sweets0--such as the so-called ,norman apples and the ,wildings--and the 8red0 fruits1 such as the nearly extinct 8,red ,streak40 ,the best cider is made from an admixture of the two sorts4 ,but the gout-fuge cider1 we gather from another writer1 should be made from a single sort of apple4 8,there is no difficulty10 writes ,mr4 ,cooke1 8in expressing the apple juice2 but the fermentation process is not sufficiently studied1 and it is here that failure commonly occurs40 8,as for the making of ,perry and ,cider10 writes an authority of the seventeenth century1 8which are drinkes much used in the ,west parts1 and other countries well stored with fruit in this #ahb kingdome2 you shall know that your perry is made of peares onely1 and your cider of apples2 and for the manner of making thereof1 it is done after one fashion1 that is to say1 after your ,peares and ,apples are well prickt from the stalkes1 rottennesse1 and all manner of other filthe1 you shall put them in the presse mill which is made with a mil-stone running round in a circle1 under which you shall crush your peares or apples1 and then straining them through a bagge of haire cloth1 tunne up the same 7after it hath bene a little setled7 into hogs-heads1 barrels1 and other close vessels4 8,now after you have prest all1 you shall save that which is within the haire cloth bagge1 and putting it into severall vessels1 put a pretty quantity of water thereinto1 and after it hath stood a day or two1 and hath beene well stirred together1 presse it over also againe1 for this will make a small perry or cider1 and must be spent first4 ,now of your best cider that which you make of your summer or sweete fruit you shall call summer or sweete cider or perry1 and that you shall spend first also2 and that which you make of the winter and hard fruit1 you shall call winter and sowre cider1 or perry2 and that you may spend last1 for it will indure the longest40 ,we don't boil much cider nowadays1 but this was a custom in considerable favour with the ancients4 8,in many places10 says another writer1 8they boyl their cider1 adding thereto several spices1 which makes it very pleasant1 and abates the unsavoury smack it contracts by boyling1 but #ahc withal gives it a high colour4 ,this way is not to be commended1 because the juice of the apple is either apt to extract some ill savour from the brass or copper1 we being not acquainted with any other vessels to boyl it in1 or the sediment of it is apt to burn by its adhering to the sides of the vessel1 it being boyl'd in a naked fire4 8,but if you are willing to boyl your cider1 your vessel ought to be of ,latten1 which may be made large enough to boyl a good quantity1 the ,tin yielding no bad tincture to the liquor4 4 4 4 ,it many times happens that cider that hath been good1 by ill-management or other accident becomes dead1 flat1 sowr1 thick1 muddy1 or musty2 all which in some sort or other may be cured4 ,you may cure deadness or flatness in cider by grinding a small parcel of apples1 and putting them in at the bung-hole1 and stopping it close1 only sometimes trying it by opening the small vent that it force not the vessel2 but then you must draw it off in a few days1 either into bottles or another vessel1 lest the ,murc corrupt the whole mass4 ,cider that is dead or flat will oftentimes revive again of itself1 if close stopt1 upon the revolution of the year and approaching summer40 ,hippocras4 ,here is an ancient recipe3-- ,take of cardamoms1 carpobalsamum1 of each half an ounce1 coriander-seeds prepared1 nutmegs1 ginger1 of each two ounces1 cloves two drachms2 bruise and infuse them two days in two gallons of the richest sweetest cider1 often stirring it together1 then add #ahd thereto of milk three pints1 strain all through an hippocras bag1 and sweeten it with a pound of sugar-candy4 ,d'you kna-ow--as the curate in ,the ,private ,secretary says--,i am not taking any hippocras to-day4 8,wormwood imbib'd in cider10 says another writer1 8produceth the effect that it doth in wine40 ,evidently some nasty effect2 only conceive an admixture of absinthe and cider6 ,that the ancients loved mixtures--and sweet mixtures--is pretty evident from the writings of ,pliny and others4 ,were a man to invite me to drink apple juice in the which had been bottled dried juniper-berries1 ,i should probably hit that man in the eye1 or send for a policeman4 ,but two or three hundred years ago 8juniper-cider0 appears to have been a popular drink1 although we read that 8the taste thereof is somewhat strange1 which by use will be much abated40 ,ginger1 cloves1 cinnamon1 currants1 honey1 rosemary1 raspberries1 blackberries1 elderberries1 and 8clove-,july-flowers10 all used to be put into cider1 by way of flavouring2 8but the best addition10 says the same writer1 8that can be to it is that of the lees of ,malaga ,sack or ,canary new and sweet1 about a gallon to a hogshead2 this is a great improver and a purifier of cider40 ,evidently in those days they had some crude sort of ideas on the subject of ,cider ,cup4 #ahe ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,cordials ,,and ,,liqueurs ,a chat about cherry brandy -- ,cherry gin -- ,and cherry whisky -- ,sloe gin -- ,highland cordial -- ,what ,king ,charles ,,ii4 swallowed -- ,poor ,charles6 -- ,ginger brandy -- ,orange-flower brandy -- ,employment of carraway seeds -- ,the school treat -- ,use and abuse of aniseed -- ,do not drink quince whisky -- ,try orange brandy instead -- ,a hell-broth -- ,curaoa -- ,cassis -- ,chartreuse -- ,the monks as benefactors -- ,some quaint tavern 8refreshers0 -- ,kirschenwasser -- ,noyeau -- ,parfait amour -- ,maraschino -- ,a valuable ginger cordial4 ,let us commence with that grand old ,british eye-opener1 ,cherry ,brandy4 ,there are more ways than one of making this4 ,here is an old recipe4 ,take six dozen pounds of cherries1 half red and half black1 and mash or squeeze them with your hands to pieces1 and put to them three gallons of brandy1 and let them stand steeping twenty-four hours4 ,then put the mash'd cherries and liquor a little at a time into a canvas bag1 and press it as long as any juice will run2 sweeten it to your taste1 and put it into a vessel fit for it1 and let it stand a #ahf month1 and bottle it out2 put a lump of loaf-sugar into every bottle4 ,another way1 and a nicer2 the idea of squeezing cherries to pieces with the human hands savouring of barbarism--and fingers4 ,take ,black ,geans or ,black ,morellos--but remember that the former are sweet1 the latter acid and bitter1 and there will be a great difference in the results4 ,they must not be over-ripe4 ,take off the stalks1 and if you choose prick them with a pin4 ,fill a bottle with them three-quarters1 pour in brandy to the neck1 and cork it up4 ,it will be ready in a month4 ,it will be noticed that no mention of sugar is made in the above4 ,the necessary quantity would naturally vary1 according to the description of cherry employed4 ,yet another--my way4 ,this can either be made from ,black ,gean cherries1 or ,morellos1 but the latter are better for the purpose4 ,every pound of cherries will require one quarter of a pound of white sugar and one pint of the best brandy4 ,the cherries1 with the sugar well-mixed with them1 should be placed in wide-mouthed bottles1 filled up with brandy2 and if the fruit be previously pricked1 the mixture will be ready in a month4 ,but a better blend is procured if the cherries are untouched1 and this principle holds good with all fruit treated in this way1 and left corked for at least three months4 ,it should be borne in mind that these cordials are far better when home-made--provided always #ahg the best materials be used4 ,the cherry brandy1 sloe gin1 etc4 etc41 which is bought is not always made with '#fe cognac4 ,remember how many people have to make some sort of profit out of what can be purchased over the counter4 ,one more way4 ,put six pounds of black cherries1 six pounds of ,morellos1 and two pounds of strawberries in a cask4 ,bruise them slightly with a stick1 then add three pounds of sugar1 twelve cloves1 half an ounce of powdered cinnamon1 and two grated nutmegs1 with a quarter of the kernels of the cherry-stones1 and a handful of mint and balm4 ,pour over these six quarts of brandy1 and let the cask remain open for ten days4 ,then close it1 and in two months it will be fit for use4 ,cherry ,gin can be made in the same way as any of the above1 merely substituting ,old ,tom for cognac4 ,and if you want to make it extra good1 use sugar-candy instead of the ordinary 8best lump40 ,cherry ,whisky was introduced to the public at the ,brewers' ,exhibition in the ,royal ,agricultural ,hall1 ,london1 in #ahih4 ,i have not tasted it1 but suppose that the method of making it is similar to any of the above recipes1 substituting ,glenlivet4 ,but ,i fancy brandy or gin would always be preferable2 for whisky does not blend well with fruit4 #ahh ,sloe ,gin4 ,the difference between this cordial as made at home1 and allowed to mature gradually1 and the stuff retailed in taverns1 is marked4 ',tis a 8refresher0 which has only become popular within the last few years2 and consequently within a radius of twenty miles from ,london1 the sloe-bushes are stripped of their fruit1 before it is fit to pick1 by the poorer classes1 who can obtain sixpence per pound--or something like that price--for sloes in the market4 ,but the sloe should not be picked for this purpose until it has experienced at least one night's frost4 ,allow one pound of sugar to one pound of sloes4 ,half fill an ordinary quart bottle with sugared sloes1 and fill up with gin4 ,if the sloes have been previously pricked1 the liqueur will be fit for use in a couple of months2 but 'tis better not to prick them1 but let the gin do its own work of extraction4 ,in that case the bottle should not be uncorked within twelve months4 ,a great deal of the alleged sloe gin sold is light in colour1 and has evidently been hurried in its preparation4 ,a great deal more is quite innocent of sloe juice1 and is merely inferior gin1 diluted and coloured4 ,the orthodox sloe gin should bear the hue of 8fruity0 port wine4 ,see that you get it4 ,highland ,cordial4 ,here is another recipe into which the wine of bonnie ,scotland enters4 ,at one time the #ahi cordial was popular with the ,scots1 who now1 however1 prefer their whisky unadorned4 ,steep in one bottle of old ,scotch whisky one pint of white currants1 stripped of their stalks1 the thin rind of a lemon1 and one teaspoonful of essence of ginger4 ,let the mixture stand for forty-eight hours1 and then strain through a hair sieve4 ,add one pound of loaf-sugar1 which will take at least a day to thoroughly dissolve4 ,then bottle off and cork well4 ,it will be ready for use in three months1 but will keep longer4 ,a cordial which is but seldom asked for nowadays was known in the seventeenth century as ,king ,charles ,,ii4's ,surfeit-,water4 ,take a gallon of the best aqua-vit1 and a quart of brandy1 and a quart of anniseed-water1 a pint of poppy-water1 and a pint of damask-rose-water2 put these in a large glass jar1 and put to it a pound of fine powdered sugar1 a pound and a half of raisins stoned1 a quarter of a pound of dates stoned and sliced1 one ounce of cinnamon bruised1 cloves one ounce1 four nutmegs bruised1 one stick of licorice scraped and sliced2 let all these stand nine days close covered1 stirring three or four times a day2 then add to it three pounds of fresh poppies1 or three handfuls of dried poppies1 a sprig of angelica1 two or three of balm2 so let it stand a week longer1 then strain it out and bottle it4 ,and then notify the undertaker1 ,i should think4 ,the ,merry ,monarch had his faults1 but1 surfeit or no surfeit1 it is hard to believe that a king could bring himself to lap such a #aij 8hell-broth0 as the above4 ,pah6 ,let us take the taste out with ,ginger ,brandy4 ,bruise slightly two pounds of black currants1 and mix them with one ounce and a half of ground ginger4 ,pour over them one bottle and a half of best old brandy1 and let the mixture stand for two days4 ,strain off the liquid1 and add one pound of loaf-sugar which has been boiled to a syrup in a little water4 ,bottle and cork closely4 ,orange-flower ,brandy4 ,there is not much of this in the market1 or the store-cupboard4 ,take a gallon of best brandy1 and mix with it a pound of orange-flowers which have been boiled4 ,save the water1 sweeten it1 and bottle off the mixture4 ,carraway ,brandy4 ,steep an ounce of carraway seeds and six ounces of loaf-sugar in a quart of brandy4 ,let this stand nine days1 then strain and bottle4 ,and the author of the above adds3 8 ',tis a good cordial40 ,three hundred years ago carraways invariably figured at the dessert-table in ,england4 ,the seeds now appear either in cakes for school-treats1 sugar-plums1 or the favourite liqueur known as ,kmmel4 ,this is principally made in ,russia1 and is an excellent stomachic4 ,own brother to the #aia carraway seed is the anise seed1 which appears in a liqueur1 made chiefly at ,bordeaux1 and called ,anisette4 ,personally1 ,i prefer ,kmmel1 and the other is more of a drug than an enlivening potion4 ,cough remedies for the most part contain anise seed1 which is also largely used at a 8drag0 hunt1 hounds being especially keen on the scent4 ,apricot ,brandy4 ,this is not often met with away from its home in the ,united ,states4 ,to every pound of fruit 7which should not be quite ripe7 add one pound of loaf-sugar4 ,put the apricots into a preserving-pan1 with sufficient water to cover them4 ,let them boil up1 and then simmer gently until tender4 ,remove the skins4 ,clarify and boil the sugar1 then pour it over the fruit1 and let it remain twenty-four hours4 ,then put the apricots into wide-mouthed bottles1 and fill them up with syrup and brandy1 half and half4 ,cork tightly1 and seal the tops of the corks4 ,this apricot brandy should be prepared in the month of ,july1 and kept at least twelve months before using4 ,quince ,whisky4 ,i once superintended the brew of a decoction of quinces and ,scotch whisky4 ,the quinces were treated exactly as the apricots are in the above recipe1 and we kept the stuff bottled up for a year4 ,i don't think ,i ever tasted anything nastier4 #aib ,orange ,brandy should be made in the month of ,march1 and1 well-made1 is the best of all cordials1 being especially valuable on a cold morning just before proceeding with the hounds to draw ,newton ,wood4 ,take the thin rinds of six ,seville oranges1 and put them into a stone jar1 with half a pint of the strained juice and half a gallon of good old brandy4 ,let it remain three days1 then add one pound and a quarter of loaf-sugar--broken1 not pounded--and stir till the sugar is dissolved4 ,let the liquor stand a day1 strain it through paper until quite clear1 pour into bottles1 and cork tightly4 ,the longer it is kept the better4 ,the ancients apparently interpreted the word 8cordial0 in a different way to our later way2 and their cordials were chiefly used in the sick-room4 ,the ,saffron ,cordial1 for instance1 was chiefly employed to cure fainting fits1 the ague1 and the smallpox4 ,i think ,i should have preferred all three complaints at once4 ,fill a large still with marigold flowers1 and strew on it an ounce of ground nutmeg2 beat them grosly1 and take an ounce of the best ,english saffron1 pull it1 and mix with the flowers2 then take three pints of muscadine or tent1 or ,malaga sack1 and with a sprig of rosemary dash it on the flowers2 then distil it off with a slow fire1 and let it drop on #aic white sugar-candy2 draw it off till it begins to be sowre1 save a pint of the first running to mix with other waters on an extraordinary occasion2 mix the rest together to drink by itself4 ,take five or six spoonfuls at a time4 ,as ,hamlet observes1 on a memorable occasion3 8,oh1 horrible1 horrible1 most horrible60 ,curaoa is not only the best known of all liqueurs1 but the most wholesome4 ,it will blend equally well with brandy and whisky4 ,the best1 in fact the original brand1 is made in ,amsterdam1 with the peel of a very rare orange which grows in the island of ,curaoa1 and falls from the tree before it is ripe4 ,the peel of this is dried1 and is known in the trade as the ,curaoa of ,holland1 to distinguish it from other ,curaoas which have not the same property1 although they are often sold in place of it4 ,the ,dutch distillers naturally keep their process a secret1 but the ,french imitators declare that the ,dutch secret is merely as follows3 that five kilogrammes of dried peel of the ,curaoa of ,holland and the zests of eighty fresh oranges are submitted to the action of sixty litres of alcohol 7#he degrees1 ,french measurement71 and that1 save in the colour1 there is no real difference between white ,curaoas and brown4 ,at all events either is very useful in a cocktail1 or swizzle2 and there are many restorative compounds1 or 8tonics0 as they are called1 into which the liqueur enters4 #aid ,cassis1 owing to the ridiculously-high duty imposed upon its importation1 is comparatively unknown in ,england1 although it can be obtained at every little roadside cabaret in ,france1 cheap enough4 ,the cassis of ,dijon has a great reputation as a cooling drink4 ,there is an infinitesimal portion of alcohol in it1 and it can1 ,i should say1 be easily made at home by anybody who possesses some nice ripe black-currants4 ,still the nearest the ordinary ,english householder gets to cassis is in the manufacture of so-called 8black-currant tea02 and you only get that when you have a sore throat4 ,chartreuse4 ,one of the most severe sects of monks manufacture a liqueur which is the highest prized and priced of all1 for the benefit of ,sybarites who deny themselves no luxury in life4 ,st4 ,bruno the founder of this order chose for his monastery the most desolate and barren spot he could find in the mountains of ,dauphin1 and forbade his followers to eat the flesh of bird or beast2 the fruit of the vine and strong waters being likewise defended4 ,but one of them discovered1 nevertheless1 that a most seductive liquid could be distilled from plants1 chief amongst them being ,angelica ,archangelica--a plant which it is probable did not receive its holy name until trial had been made of the distillation4 ,the ,carthusian monks have the sole right of selling this liqueur--a right which brings them in a very #aie substantial revenue2 for ,chartreuse is esteemed--in ,france1 at all events--above all chasses4 ,the yellow kind is the best1 and the white mildest of the three1 of which the green is fiery4 ,personally1 ,i prefer curaoa1 or1 better still1 cognac '#fe4 ,the name of the 8little refreshers0 consumed at tavern-bars in large cities is legion4 ,i have heard the following compounds called for1 at different times3 sherry-and-bitters--there being at least half a dozen sorts of bitters--gin-and-ditto1 whisky-and-ditto2 vermouth 7,italian or ,french71 vermouth-and-sloe-gin1 gin-and-sherry1 gin-and-orange-gin1 sloe-gin1 gin-and-sloe-gin 7commonly called 8slow-and-quick071 curaoa-and-brandy1 whisky alone1 brandy alone1 gin alone4 ,and in the ,borough there is a dreadful mixture known by the appropriate name of ,twist4 8,this10 says an esteemed correspondent1 8is a favourite liqueur of the porters in the hop-warehouses4 ,you go into the #8,red ,cross1' for instance1 and ask for a #8 'alf-quartern o' ,twist in a three-out glass1' and you will find that it consists of equal parts of rum and gin1 and is a powerful pick-me-up after a wet night40 ,i should question the 8pick-me-up0 part of this story2 therefore shall not schedule 8,twist0 in my list of ,restoratives1 in the next chapter4 ,kirschenwasser4 ,this is a wholesome and reviving liqueur made from the cherries which grow in the ,black ,forest4 ,it is not as potent as maraschino1 which #aif is also made from cherries1 in another place4 ,but the ,black ,forest cherry-water requires a little treatment to render it palatable4 ,put a little in a saucer2 take a lump of sugar1 set fire to it1 and replace it in the saucer1 so that the rest of the liquid may be set ablaze4 ,when the flame is burnt out and the sugar melted1 the liqueur is fit to drink4 ,noyeau is made from white brandy and apricot-kernels1 and is the sweetest1 as well as the most pernicious of all liqueurs4 ,i do not know how many glasses it would take to kill an ordinary man1 but most people know that noyeau contains hydrocyanic acid of which none but those tired of the world would care to drink too much4 ,parfait ,amour 8,what's in a name80 ,this is simply bad orange-bitters1 and there is neither love nor perfection in it4 ,but they say that in dear old ,england1 in the olden time1 before oranges could be bought at three-halfpence per dozen1 it was customary for a lover1 on ,new ,year's ,day1 to present his sweetheart with an orange stuck all over with cloves1 as an emblem of ,perfect ,love4 ,the sweetheart of to-day prefers a bangle1 or a bicycle4 ,one more liqueur1 ,maraschino4 ,this is a bitter-sweet liqueur made at ,zara from the kernel of the ,marasca cherry1 or gean #aig of ,dalmatia4 ,the word implies bitterness1 yet the liquid is sweet enough to catch flies4 8,it is a curious fact10 says a modern writer1 8in natural history that the fair sex prefer a sweet liqueur to the finest wine2 and they have such a tendency to maraschino that ,mr4 ,hayward has proposed that whereas the toast most honoured among men is ,wine and ,women1 they should adopt as their own return toast--,men and ,maraschino40 ,the ,french make different imitations of the true liqueur1 one of them from peach-stones1 which they call 8,marasquin de pches40 ,and in the true ,maraschino of ,zara there be a few peach-stones mixed with those of the geans4 ,these are small and quite black1 and are fermented first with honey1 then with the leaves and kernels of the fruit1 and are last of all distilled and sweetened with sugar4 ,one more cordial1 to finish the chapter4 ,the recipe was given in the ,lady's ,pictorial1 by ,mrs4 ,c4 ,e4 ,humphry1 the delightful and ever-welcome 8,madge0 of ,truth4 ,i can vouch for the efficacy of the potion4 ,ginger ,cordial4 ,two quarts of ,scotch whisky1 three lemons sliced1 one ounce of ground ginger1 half an ounce of carraway seeds1 three pounds of lump-sugar1 one ounce of bitter almonds1 three ounces of sweet almonds1 one pound of raisins4 ,put all into a crock1 and stir every day for three weeks4 ,then strain through three folds of blotting-paper1 or one fold of filtering-paper1 and bottle4 #aih ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,the ,,aftermath ,,of ,,revelry ,revelry means remorse -- ,and 8,katzenjammer0 -- ,and other things -- ,why will ye do it8 -- ,the devil in solution -- ,alcoholism a disease -- ,an accountant on wires -- ,a jumpy journalist -- ,a lot of jolly dogs -- ,what is 8,langdebeefe08 -- ,to cure spleen or vapours -- ,directly opposite effects of alcohol -- ,the best pick-me-up in the world -- ,an anchovy toast -- ,baltimore egg nogg -- ,orange quinine -- ,about brandy and soda-water -- ,a ,scorcher -- ,brazil relish -- ,st4 ,mark's pick-me-up -- ,a champion bitters -- ,a devilled biscuit -- ,restorative sandwiches -- ,fresh air and exercise best of all -- ,stick to your nerve6 ,this is a world of compensations4 ,therefore it is of no use shutting our eyes to the fact that for every minute of injudicious1 over-estimated revelry1 of devotion to the rosy god1 passed at night in the best of society1 with boon companions1 we are liable to an hour's disturbance1 worry1 agony of mind1 headache1 remorse of conscience1 8jim-jams10 8,katzenjammer0 7the equivalent for 8hot coppers07--call it what you will1 next day4 ,some suffer for over-indulgence more than others4 ,there be so-called 8seasoned casks0 who claim that no amount of debauchery can affect them for the worse1 as long as the #aii liquor be good1 and not swallowed too quickly4 ,but1 although these may 8come up smiling0 next day1 on making their first public appearance1 the collapse1 the downfall is only postponed4 ,without being able to explain these things medically1 it is certain that ,alcohol--which is1 as previously explained1 the ,devil in ,solution--will destroy in the end1 if you abuse her1 although her methods of destruction may differ1 according to the capacity1 or constitution1 of her victims4 ,and let not the over-estimator expect any sympathy from the world1 or any part of it1 whilst he is experiencing the 8remorse of conscience0 stage4 ,katzenjammer patients are sternly and forcibly refused admission to any public hospitals1 even if in extremis2 for mercy1 charity1 and the medical faculty have refused hitherto to recognize the fact that alcoholism is a disease4 ,and he who is 8jumpy0 and nervous of a morning has just as much chance of obtaining condolence from friends or relatives as has the casual sufferer from gout4 ,both disorders are1 in fact1 excellent provocatives of badinage and laughter4 ,i remember hearing of an accountant in ,cape ,town1 a hardened and determined 8night bird10 a frequenter of hostelries1 a boon companion--in short1 a sot4 ,he was called as a witness in an intricate case in the ,high ,court1 one morning1 whilst suffering terribly from nerves4 ,it was heart-rending to watch his agony4 ,his features twitched1 his eyes rolled1 and his hands shook as though afflicted with palsy on the higher scale4 ,the ledgers which #bjj were occasionally handed up to him by the usher1 for reference1 slipped from his grasp1 and documentary testimony flew all over the counsels' wigs4 ,at length the notice of the judge was attracted to the state of things4 8,what is the matter with that witness80 asked his lordship4 8,is he trifling with the court80 8,m'lord10 said counsel for the plaintiff1 8,i am instructed that the witness is what may be called a free-liver1 and that it is often necessary for him to swallow a dram in the morning1 before proceeding to business4 ,i am also instructed that the witness overslept himself this morning1 and had no time to procure the necessary dose1 before appearing as a witness before your lordship40 8,tut1 tut60 exclaimed the judge4 8,this is wasting the time of the court4 ,let him be removed at once to the waiting-room and dosed with old brandy40 ,he was a practical judge2 and in five minutes' time that accountant had pulled himself together4 ,and an even more painful case than the above is within my memory4 ,a certain newspaper-proprietor was in the habit of paying the weekly wages of his staff himself1 each member having to sign a receipt for the reward of merit4 ,the fashion-editor--a hardened libertine--turned up one ,saturday1 before his chief1 absolutely incapable of signing his name1 or any part of it4 ,his gait was all right1 as was his speech2 but the pen slipped through his fingers as though it had been a well-oiled icicle4 ,the #bja chief called the next case1 the while some of us poured over-proof rum down the throat of the fashion-editor at an adjacent hostelry4 ,he subsequently trousered his salary1 and signed the receipt1 satisfactorily1 after pleading that he was suffering that morning from 8shock40 ,the chief looked somewhat incredulous4 8,is he an inebriate80 he asked1 as soon as the invalid had left the office4 8,oh6 dear no1 sir10 replied the acrostic-editor1 8he's almost a teetotaller40 ,and the incident was finished4 ,but what is really the best thing to be done under such sad circumstances8 ,should the invalid resort to the old remedy1 and take at once that 8hair of the dog0 who bit him overnight8 ,not invariably4 ,for instance1 should ,british port1 or brandy of the desiccated-window-sill 7vide a former chapter7 have been the causa teterrima of the trouble1 nobody1 however shaky1 would revert to such remedies1 the first thing after waking4 ,and frequently it is difficult for the waker to remember which dog it was that assaulted him4 ,i once visited a young friend in his chambers1 at the hour of noon1 and found him with a sad countenance1 seated in an easy-chair faced by a perfect army of assorted bottles4 ,i was about to administer a mild reproof1 but he stopped me4 8,it's all right1 dear old chappie1 ,i've been taking a hair of the dog--you know4 ,but ,i met such a lot of dogs1 jolly dogs too1 last night1 that ,i'm hanged if ,i can remember which of 'em bit me60 #bjb ,the ancients cooled their coppers1 for the most part1 with ale1 either small or large4 ,and ,i am led to the belief that cider1 or some preparation of apples1 was also used as a pick-me-up1 if 8melancholy vapours0--a complaint for which ,gervase ,markham specially recommended cider as a specific--meant the same thing as alcoholic remorse4 ,search as ,i may ,i can find no recipe1 no prescription1 in old books for 8hot coppers40 ,can it be that the ancients1 who as previously pointed out1 were not teetotallers1 deceived themselves in protesting before men that they had no sin8 ,here is an old recipe headed3 8,against ,drunkennesse4 8,if you would not be drunke1 take the powder of ,betany and ,coleworts mix't together2 and eat it every morning fasting1 as much as will lie on a sixpence1 and it will preserve a man from drunkennesse40 ,but this is an alleged preventive of the act1 and not a chaser of sorrow from the brow of the unwise partaker4 8,to quicken a man's wits10 writes the same ,mr4 ,markham1 8spirit and memory1 let him take ,langdebeefe0--can this mean langue de buf8--8which is gathered in ,june or ,july1 and beating it in a cleane mortar2 ,let him drinke the juyce thereof with warme water1 and he shall finde the benefit40 ,probably the most useful part of this prescription was the warm water2 still it can hardly be regarded as a restorative4 #bjc ,other recipes are before me1 for 8drawing out bones broken in the head10 and 8for the falling of the mould of the head02 but these1 apparently1 have no concern with the question at issue4 ,but to continue the search--eureka6 8,to ,cure ,spleen or ,vapours4 ,take an ounce of the filings of steel1 two drachms of gentian sliced1 half an ounce of carduns seeds bruised1 half a handful of centaury tops2 infuse all these in a quart of white wine four days1 and drink four spoonfuls of the clear every morning1 fasting two hours after it1 and walking about40 ,this ,i take to be a bona fide pick-me-up of two hundred years ago2 and if 8carduns0 be the old spelling of 8cardamom0 'tis very much the same mixture that the chemist will place in the trembling hand of the over-estimator1 enquiring at the same time1 8,would you like a lozenge after it1 sir80 ,and the omission of sal volatile or chloric ether in the prescription leads to the belief that those drugs were joys unknown to the reveller of the seventeenth century4 ,the most aggravating part about the aftermath of revelry is that it takes1 just as it likes1 directly opposite forms4 ,two sinners may jump the same stiff course--by this sporting metaphor is meant imbibe the same amount and description of alcohol--after dinner1 and1 whilst ,a may wake with a double-breasted headache1 a taste of sewage in the mouth1 and a tongue as foul and furry as a stoat's back1 ,b will commence the day with a #bjd dreadful sinking at the base of the stomach1 palpitation of the heart1 and a desire to eat anything solid within reach4 ,a prays faintly for burnt brandy1 or death1 and could not swallow even a devilled biscuit1 were you to promise to make him a director of a gold-mine for performing that feat2 whilst ,b is 8dead off0 brandy1 but is capable of washing down ham and eggs and chops unlimited1 with a gallon or two of coffee4 ,any medical man will doubtless give a reason for this discrepancy1 which is quite beyond my powers of elucidation4 ,the ,best ,pick-me-up known to the writer is 8the ,boy1 the whole ,boy1 and nothing but the ,boy40 ',tis an expensive restorative1 no doubt2 but1 just as you cannot make an omelette without breaking eggs1 so are most of our pleasant vices more or less costly in the long-run4 ,champagne1 i4e4 genuine champagne1 is about the most valuable restorative known to science1 and has--,i believe1 though this is not within my own experience--saved the lives of sufferers from the 8black death10 cholera4 ,whether blended with beaten eggs1 bitters1 or brandy1 or in his pure natural beauty1 there is1 believe me1 no such effectual sorrow-chaser as 8,the ,boy40 ,anchovy ,toast4 ,the next best restorer of the faculties is a quasi-solid2 and the recipe for its concoction has already been given in ,cakes and ,ale4 ,as1 #bje however1 a portion of the public may be fated to enjoy the ale without the cakes1 here it is again4 ,first and foremost1 bear in mind that this appetizer must not be made in the kitchen4 ,it comes under the heading of 8parlour cookery10 and can even be manufactured in the bedroom of the sufferer4 ,a hot-water plate is necessary for the operator1 or1 better still1 a slop-basin filled with water as near the boiling point as possible1 with a plate placed atop4 ,melt on this plate a piece of butter about the size of a walnut1 and when the butter is oiled stir therein with a fork the beaten yolk of one egg4 ,keep on the stir1 and add1 gradually1 a dessert spoonful of essence of anchovies4 ,add cayenne1 according to your disposition1 or indisposition1 and then you will be ready for a nice strip or two of delicately-browned toast1 brought up hot from the kitchen fire4 ,soak the toast in the mixture1 and eat as much as you can4 ,above is the estimate for one invalid4 ,it is essentially a pick-me-up for a bachelor--benedicts never require these things--and if1 whilst in barracks1 or chambers1 ,jack1 ,tom1 and ,harry should call1 the proportions of the ingredients must1 of course1 be increased4 ,a glass or two of the ,boy will be found to go down excellent well with this toast1 the secret of which ,i learnt long years ago1 in ,british ,india4 ,it is not a dish for the dinner-table4 ,a ,baltimore ,egg ,nogg reads like a 8large order40 ,it is said by its #bjf author to be 8an excellent drink for debilitated people1 and a nourishing diet for consumptives40 ,and he would be a ,good ,samaritan1 who would wait outside the big gates of ,holloway ,castle1 on a ,monday morning1 in order to administer the nogg1 in full doses1 to the starved captives on their release4 ,it would also1 ,i should imagine1 make an excellent hospital drink1 for a score or so of patients4 ,beat the yolks of sixteen eggs and twelve tablespoonfuls of pulverized loaf-sugar to the consistency of cream2 stir into this two-thirds of a grated nutmeg1 and then pour in half a pint of good old brandy1 or ,jamaica rum--or both n4q4--and three wine-glasses of ,madeira4 ,have ready the whites of the sixteen eggs1 whipped to a stiff froth1 and beat them well into the above mixture1 and then stir in six pints of new milk1 as fresh as possible from the cow4 ,one of the best restoratives is that which is frequently given by the trainer of an athlete1 or boxer1 should his charge feel the effects of overwork4 ,it consists of the heart of a good loin chop1 free from fat1 and neither underdone nor overdone1 on a very hot plate1 with a glass of port wine poured over the meat4 ,another familiar strengthener is prepared in the following way3-- ,put a tablespoonful of old brandy into half a pint of good beef-tea4 ,and by beef-tea ,i mean the juices of the meat extracted at home1 and not by the employes of advertising firms4 8,breakfast delicacies0 and tinned preparations are only for the unwary4 ,this may be taken either hot or cold4 #bjg ,orange ,quinine is an excellent tonic4 ,to a pint bottle of orange wine add ten grains of sulphate of quinine1 cork well1 and let it stand for a few days4 ,take a wine-glassful at a time1 either with or without a dash of soda-water4 ,brandy-and-,soda1 already alluded to in an earlier chapter1 will get no recommendation from me1 as a restorative4 ,if quite certain of your soda-water1 and of your brandy1 a tumblerful on occasion will do no harm2 but do not be in too great a hurry to order this1 after meeting an old friend1 in a strange district4 ,like ,wotsisname's pills1 the more brandy-and-sodas you take1 the more you will want2 and the tendency of soda-water is distinctly lowering4 ,as for bad soda-water--well1 it will kill almost as rapidly as will bad brandy4 ,a favourite restorative of the working man1 who has been propounding abstruse political problems in the tap-room all night1 is a red-herring1 eaten raw1 with the aid of his clasp-knife4 ,this he will wash down with some sort of ale1 or with a mixture of gin-and-peppermint1 according to the state of his feelings4 ,that old1 heroic soberer the ,pump1 is not much used for that purpose1 nowadays4 ,a ,scorcher is a rarely-employed pick-me-up4 ,it consists of #bjh the juice of half a lemon squeezed into a large wine-glass1 a liqueur-glass of old brandy being added1 and a dash of cayenne4 ,i have already alluded in another chapter to a ,prairie ,oyster4 ,a ,worcester ,oyster is made in the same way1 with the substitution of ,worcester sauce for vinegar4 ,brazil ,relish4 ,this reads far more like an emetic than a 8livener02 but ,i am assured by one who has been in ,brazil--8where the nuts come from0--and in the regions which border on the river ,plate1 that 'tis used in those parts as a stimulant1 and is in high favour for that purpose4 ,into a wine-glass half full of curaoa pop the unbroken yolk of a bantam's egg1 and fill the glass up with maraschino4 ,i think ,i should prefer the 8,twist0 of the workers in the ,borough hop-market4 ,st4 ,mark's ,pick-me-up1 a ,venetian recipe4 ,the original ,st4 ,mark never wanted it4 ,ten drops of ,angostura bitters in a wine-glass1 filled up with orange-bitters4 ,one wine-glassful of old brandy1 one ditto cold water1 one liqueur-glassful of curaoa1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,this1 ,i should say1 ought to be mixed with a swizzle-stick4 ,here follows a very old1 and a very excellent1 recipe for #bji ,bitters for mixing purposes4 ,one ounce of ,seville orange-peel1 half an ounce of gentian-root1 a quarter of an ounce of cardamoms4 ,husk the cardamoms1 and crush them with the gentian-root4 ,put them in a wide-mouthed bottle1 and cover with brandy or whisky4 ,let the mixture remain for twelve days1 then strain1 and bottle off for use1 after adding one ounce of lavender drops4 ,a hot-pickle sandwich may be made with two thin1 crisp slices of toast1 with chopped ,west-,indian pickles in between4 ,there are also many excellent sandwiches made for restorative purposes1 by the nymphs who enliven the various ,bodegas by their abilities and pretty prattle4 ,and of those sandwiches commend me to the one labelled 8,rajah40 ,to make a ,devilled ,biscuit take a plain cheese-biscuit1 heat it1 but do not scorch it1 in the oven4 ,then spread over it a paste composed of finely-powdered lobster worked up with butter1 made mustard1 ground ginger1 cayenne1 salt1 ,chili vinegar1 and 7if you can stand it7 a little curry powder4 ,reheat the biscuit for a short time1 and then deal with it4 ,but1 after all1 fresh air and exercise are the best of all restoratives2 and most of the above recipes are adduced in the interest of the jaded ,londoner1 or the dweller in cities1 to whom a ride1 or a walk1 save on ,sundays and ,bank holidays1 #baj is a rarity4 ,get on your hack and gallop a dozen miles to covert4 ,by the time you have mounted your first hunter1 you will have forgotten all about the dog which may have bitten you on the previous night1 and will also have forgotten a stern resolution made1 whilst shying at your breakfast1 never again to put whisky1 however old1 atop of claret4 ,and by the time you have jumped three ox-fences1 and a great yawning drain big enough and deep enough to bury the whole field1 you will have recovered every bit of that 8nerve0 about which you had just a suspicion of a doubt1 just before mounting your hack4 ,god grant that nerve may be with you always6 #baa ,,chapter ,,xix ,,the ,,drinks ,,of ,,dickens ,the lesson taught by 8,boz0 -- ,clothing ,christmas -- ,dickens's drunkards -- ,fantastic names for ales -- ,robbing a boy of his beer -- ,a school supper -- ,poor ,traddles -- ,micawber and punch -- ,revelry at ,pecksniff's -- ,todgers's 8doing it0 -- ,delights of the 8,dragon0 -- ,sairey ,gamp's requirements -- ,what was in the teapot -- ,the 8,maypole0 -- ,sydney ,carton's hopeless case -- ,stryver's model -- 8,little ,d4 is ,deed nonsense0 -- ,dear old ,crummles -- ,a magnum of the ,double ,diamond -- ,newman ,noggs -- ,brandy before breakfast -- ,mr4 ,fagin's pupils -- ,orange-peel and water -- ,quilp on fire -- 8,pass the rosy0 -- ,harold ,skimpole -- ,joey ,bagstock -- ,brandy-and-tar-water -- ,that ass ,pumblechook -- ,an inexhaustible bottle -- ,jaggers's luncheon -- ,pickwick v4 total abstinence -- ,everything an excuse for a dram -- ,brandy and oysters -- 8,the inwariable0 -- ,milk-punch -- ,charm of the ,pickwick ,papers4 ,although it is the fashion of the day to belittle1 if not sneer at1 the works of 8,boz10 he has still sufficient admirers to justify a chapter on what is1 ,i hope1 a congenial subject to my readers4 ,the characters may be unduly elaborated1 and the incidents too much spun-out for these slap-dash1 go-ahead times2 but it is to the simple1 homely1 hospitality so often referred to in the novels of ,charles ,dickens that most of them owed that popularity which may1 or may #bab not1 be on the wane4 ,the close student of these novels will discover that all which is good1 and honest1 and upright1 and charitable is honoured in their pages1 whilst meanness1 deceit1 hypocrisy1 and cant are lashed with no uncertain hand4 8,the greatest of all gifts is ,charity10 is the lesson taught by ,charles ,dickens1 who shewed at the same time that it is quite possible to enjoy the good things of life without making a beast of oneself4 ,and he it was who clothed ,christmas in that warm1 sumptuous robe of joviality and hospitality which makes all who keep that festival in the proper spirit forget for the time that a quarter's rent falls due on the same day4 ,dickens's drunkards are few and far between--and in this category ,i do not include such as ,sydney ,carton1 the members of the ,pickwick ,club1 and ,david ,copperfield1 on the occasion of his first dinner-party4 ,nobody has a right to call the man who makes merry with his friends1 now and then1 a sot2 and a careful study of ,dickens shows that the real inebriates1 the 8habituals0 described in his works1 had all more or less rascality in their composition--not even excepting ,dick ,swiveller1 who1 however1 became a reformed character towards the close of the book4 ,as for the drinks themselves1 it is especially worthy of note that there is no mention whatever made of whisky in these works2 a fact which justifies everything which ,i have written in a former chapter as to the neglect with which this undoubtedly estimable and wholesome fortifier was treated by society1 until within the last few #bac decades4 ,a brandy-and-soda was an unknown fact during the ,dickens period2 simply because1 although there was plenty of brandy1 the true virtues of soda-water had not been discovered4 ,moreover1 nobody was known to call for a gin-and-bitters1 or a sherry-and-angostura2 whilst cocktails and cobblers are mentioned only in the ,american chapters of ,martin ,chuzzlewit4 ,ales and beers were known by various fantastic names during the first half of the present century1 when men knew not 8four-'alf0 nor 8bitter-six02 thus we have little ,david ,copperfield gravely asking for a glass of the 8,genuine ,stunning10 whilst ,mrs4 ,gamp was unable to fulfil her arduous duties satisfactorily without a generous allowance of 8the ,brighton old ,tipper40 ,but to the books themselves4 ,and commencing with ,david ,copperfield--who is provided with the heart1 feelings1 and understanding of the great novelist himself--,i make my first pause at the waiter at the ,yarmouth hotel4 ,i don't like that waiter1 either as a man or a waiter2 and his portrait by 8,phiz0 suggests a ,cheap ,jack at a fair1 or a barber1 rather than a coffee-room attendant4 ,as a boy1 ,i always looked up to a waiter as a benefactor--a species of ,santa ,claus1 and not as a marauding varlet who would probably despoil me of my lawful share of the banquet and then lie about the incident to the landlady4 ,and when this rascal pleads that he 8lives on broken wittles1 and sleeps on the coals10 ,i lose patience with him4 ,a waiter who could rob a poor boy of his beer #bad would not need to sleep on the coals4 ,he might have been a tax-gatherer1 or a bailiff4 ,mr4 ,creakle1 the schoolmaster1 appears to have been a bit of an imbiber1 whilst the boys themselves partook1 sub rosa1 of cowslip wine1 occasionally fortified by ,steerforth with orange juice1 ginger1 or a peppermint drop2 and it was probably due to this decoction1 rather than to 8,crab10 that poor ,traddles became ill in the night--his sufferings being unduly prolonged by black draughts and blue pills1 not to mention six chapters of ,greek ,testament and a special-extra caning4 ,poor little ,david partook of assorted drinks during his boyhood1 including the aforesaid 8,genuine ,stunning10 and occasional wine-glasses of punch whilst lodging with the ,micawber family2 and1 his good aunt once found1 8her first proceeding was to unlock a tall press1 bring out several bottles1 and pour some of the contents of each into my mouth4 ,i think they must have been taken out at random1 for ,i am sure ,i tasted aniseed water1 anchovy sauce1 and salad dressing40 8,my aunt0 partook of hot white wine and water1 with strips of toast soaked therein1 by way of a night-cap2 and whenever ,micawber turns up1 we may be sure that the ingredients for a bowl of punch 7presumably rum punch7 are not far off4 ,not much drinking was done in the ,peggotty family1 but ,mrs4 ,crupp1 ,david's landlady1 seems to have had the proverbial passion of her race for brandy2 and1 naturally enough1 the 8handy young man0 hired to wait1 on the occasion of the dinner to ,steerforth1 got more #bae than his fair share of the wines4 ,mr4 ,wickfield--silly old dotard to be deceived by such a shallow1 transparent ruffian as ,uriah ,heep--drank assorted wines to drown his cares2 whilst one of the servants engaged by ,dora1 during her brief experience of matrimonial joys1 used to chalk up an account1 in her mistress' name1 at the public house1 the items appearing as 8half-quartern gin and cloves 7,mrs4 ,c4720 8glass rum and peppermint 7,mrs4 ,c470--the parenthesis always referring to ,dora1 who was supposed to have consumed the whole of these refreshments4 ,there is a fair amount of assorted drinking in ,martin ,chuzzlewit4 ,revelry at ,pecksniff ,hall took1 we learn1 the form of red and white currant wine1 of acid characteristics1 the remains of the two bottles being subsequently blended1 for the special malefit of ,tom ,pinch and young ,martin4 ,but the artful ,pecksniff himself did not stir without the brandy bottle when going on a journey1 and the family seem to have done themselves particularly well at 8,todgers's40 ,whenever ,i feel more than ordinarily depressed in spirits1 ,i overhaul my ,martin ,chuzzlewit and read1 once again1 the report of the dinner at ,todgers's1 which led to ,mr4 ,pecksniff's fall into the fireplace4 ,john ,westlock--about the most admirable young man in all ,dickens's novels--did not forget to do his friends well at ,salisbury4 8,as to wines10 we are told1 8the man who can dream such iced champagne1 such claret1 port1 or sherry1 had better go to bed and stop there40 ,the blackmailing of the captain of the ,screw by the proprietor of the ,new ,york ,rowdy ,journal #baf took the form of champagne2 and the merits of a sherry cobbler are fully recognized by ,martin1 who subsequently1 however1 fared badly in the way of wines and spirits whilst in the ,states4 ,eden1 that alleged 8prosperous city10 appears to have possessed neither pawn-shop1 place of worship1 nor drinking-bar2 and the comparative delights of the 8,dragon0 on the return of ,mark and ,martin to ,wiltshire are made delightfully apparent4 ,as for the bad characters1 ,chevy ,slyme loafed in a chronic state of eleemosynary drink1 until he joined the police force1 whilst ,montague ,tigg fared sumptuously on the best of liquor--including old ,maderia--until knocked on the head by the villain ,jonas1 who also appears to have been a bit of a soaker1 when he could get his drink for nothing4 ,mrs4 ,gamp's wants were few and simple1 but she insisted upon a regular supply1 and got it4 ,leaving solid sustenance out1 she stipulated for 8a pint of mild porter at lunch1 a pint at dinner1 half a pint as a species of stay or holdfast between dinner and tea1 and a pint of the celebrated staggering ale1 or ,real ,old ,brighton ,tipper1 at supper2 besides the bottle on the chimney-piece1 and such casual invitations to refresh herself with wine as the good breeding of her employers might prompt them to offer40 ,and she never exceeded the allowance of a shillingsworth of gin-and-water warm when she rang the bell a second time after supper4 ,she must have cost as much to keep as a steam-yacht4 ,the contents of ,mrs4 ,g4's teapot1 on the occasion of her historic quarrel with ,betsy ,prig1 are alluded to1 #bag vaguely1 by the novelist as 8spirits10 and were1 ,i shall ever maintain1 gin1 and not rum1 as stated by other reviewers4 ,the idea of putting rum on the top of 8,newcastle salmon1 intensely pickled10 and such a monstrous 7to a connoisseur in these things7 salad as that furnished by ,mrs4 ,prig1 is barbaric4 ,after an experience of the modern roadside inn1 or of the 8reserved lounges0 of the alcohol-palaces of to-day1 what can be more delightful reading than the description of the interior of the 8,maypole10 in ,barnaby ,rudge8 8,the very snuggest1 cosiest1 and completest bar that ever the wit of man devised4 ,such amazing bottles in old oaken pigeon-holes2 such gleaming tankards hanging from pegs at about the same inclination as thirsty men would hold them to their lips2 such sturdy little ,dutch kegs ranged in rows on shelves2 so many lemons hanging in separate nets1 suggestive1 with goodly loaves of sugar stowed away hard by1 of punch1 idealized beyond all mortal knowledge1 etc4 etc40 ,hardly an ideal landlord of the past1 though1 was old ,john ,willet4 ,a far better stamp of host was ,gabriel ,varden1 the locksmith1 who took deep draughts of sparkling home-brewed ale1 from a goodly jug of well-browned clay1 for breakfast1 and who was one of the 8,maypole's0 best customers4 ,mr4 ,chester--whose interview with his son will remind the student of ,monsieur le ,marquis's interview with his nephew1 in ,a ,tale of ,two ,cities--was a judge of wine1 though not given to over-indulgence in the bowl1 like his bastard1 ,maypole ,hugh2 and ,lord ,george #bah ,gordon's favourite brew appears to have been hot mulled wine4 ,as for the rest of the rioters1 they drank1 after the manner of rioters1 anything they could get4 ,the first mention of wine in ,a ,tale of ,two ,cities is the fall and breakage1 pro bono publico1 of a large cask of inferior claret in the district of ,st4 ,antoine--emblematic of the blood to be spilt in ,paris later on--which called forth the delightful1 philosophic remark of ,defarge1 the master of the wine-shop to which the cask had been consigned3 8,it is not my affair4 ,the people from the market did it4 ,let them bring another40 ,but the chief imbibers in the book are ,sydney ,carton and ,serjeant ,stryver1 the pushing and successful advocate for whom the other 8devilled40 ,stryver1 we gather from ,edmund ,yates's ,reminiscences1 was modelled by ,dickens1 from ,mr4 ,edwin ,james1 ,q4,c41 who at one time 8stood high in popular favour10 and who 8liked talking40 ,there is plenty of subsequent moderate drinking--in ,defarge's wine-shop principally--but with the exception of these two advocates1 ,stryver and ,carton--8what the two drank together1 between ,hilary ,term and ,michaelmas might have floated a king's ship0--nobody appears to swallow an undue amount of alcohol1 in this the most powerful1 and the saddest1 of all ,dickens's books4 ,i could never wade through ,our ,mutual ,friend1 and ,little ,dorrit is not one of my favourite books4 ,it was ruthlessly mauled by the ,saturday ,review soon after its appearance1 and ,thackeray's openly expressed opinion of the work was 8,little ,d4 is ,deed stupid40 ,i have #bai heard another great man express the same opinion of it1 in more elegant language4 ,there is not much revelry in ,little ,d4 until we get to the second volume2 and with the exception of ,blandois the strangler and the romantic ,flora nobody appears to have a really good thirst4 ,in the ,marshalsea the 8collegians0 were evidently worse provided with alcoholic comfort than in the ,fleet2 and this is all which can be written in this chapter about ,little ,dorrit4 ,nicholas ,nickleby1 on the other hand1 is full of allusions to the flowing bowl4 ,most of the characters--,smike being a notable exception--moisten their clay in some way or other1 from dear old ,crummles1 who is introduced to our notice with a rummer of hot brandy-and-water in one hand1 to the ruffian ,squeers4 ,newman ,noggs owed his fall in life to the bold1 bad1 bottle1 and ,mantalini presumably took to gin together with the washer-woman1 in his declining years4 ,the ,brothers ,cheeryble were evidently the right sort of people to dine with--although their dinner-hour would hardly suit the present generation--especially if they had many magnums of that famed 8,double ,diamond40 ,sir ,mulberry ,hawk and his lordly victim drank deep1 after the fashion of the day2 whilst the keeper of the 8rooge-a-nore from ,paris0 booth on ,hampton race-course stimulates the energies of his patrons with excellent champagne1 port1 sherry1 and 7most likely7 ,british brandy4 ,old ,gride keeps a bottle of 8golden water0--presumably the ,dantzic liqueur1 8,acqua d',oro10 mentioned in my chapter on that form of fluid--in his cupboard1 #bbj and doles out on one occasion a minute glass thereof to ,newman ,noggs1 who would evidently1 like the farmer at the audit dinner1 prefer it 8in a moog40 ,mr4 ,lillyvick1 the collector of water-rates1 was especially partial to punch--which was 8cut off0 so unexpectedly for the benefit of ,nicholas1 after his walk from ,yorkshire to the metropolis2 and the whole of ,mr4 ,crummles's company1 ladies included1 liked a taste of the same beverage4 ,finally1 ,john ,browdie1 the good genius of the book1 was a fellow of infinite swallow1 always ready for his meals1 and never behindhand when there was a full jug or bottle handy4 ,and it is recorded that upon being knocked up by ,nicholas1 on the visit of the last-named to ,yorkshire1 with the news of ,squeers's trial and sentence1 8forced him down upon a huge settle beside a blazing fire1 poured out from an enormous bottle about a quarter of a pint of spirits1 thrust it into his hand1 opened his mouth1 and threw back his head as a sign to him to drink it40 ,and before breakfast1 too6 ,bill ,sikes1 on occasion1 drank brandy 8at a furious rate02 but more often poverty prevented his slaking his thirst on anything more deadly than ,spitalfields ale1 or eleemosynary gin4 ,the whole of ,mr4 ,fagin's pupils drank whenever opportunity offered1 either malt liquor or gin-and-water out of pewter pots2 but the ,jew himself1 with the innate caution of his race1 avoided the wiles of the bowl4 ,nancy was an 8habitual10 in her youth1 most probably1 or she would not have chummed up with such a criminal crew2 and as for ,monks1 the disorder known as #bba delirium tremens was no stranger to him4 ,bumble and his wife were not averse to a social glass2 and even the charity-boy1 ,noah ,claypole1 indulged1 during the absence of his master1 the undertaker1 in oysters1 porter1 and some sort of wine1 name not mentioned4 ,as far as we are told1 the decent members of society in ,oliver ,twist were very moderate in their potations2 although it is in my mind that ,mr4 ,fang1 the stipendiary1 was a port-wine man4 ,in ,the ,old ,curiosity ,shop we get allusions to liquids of all kinds1 from orange-peel and water1 the favourite beverage of the ,marchioness1 to the truly-awful 8wanities0 of ,quilp1 which took the form of over-proof rum1 boiled1 burnt brandy1 or raw ,schiedam out of a keg4 ,quilp1 by the way1 if amusing enough1 is the most exaggerated character ever invented by the great novelist1 and has no business out of the realms of pantomime4 ,but he was very1 very funny1 as impersonated by 8,johnny0 ,clarke in the long ago4 ,dick ,swiveller was a swindler by profession1 although like many of these a boon companion1 speechifier1 and framer of jovial sentiments4 ,the 8rosy wine0 was represented at his humble home by geneva-and-water1 and his astonishment when ,mr4 ,brass' lodger made a brew of 8extraordinary0 rum-and-water in 8a kind of temple1 shining as of polished silver10 at the same time cooking a steak1 an egg1 and a cup of coffee1 in the same temple1 can only have been exceeded by his joy at getting something really decent to drink4 ,the strolling performers with whom ,nell and ,grandfather travelled did themselves #bbb particularly well1 especially dear old ,mrs4 ,jarley1 whose consideration for her own comforts was fully equalled by her desire for the worldly welfare of others4 ,in ,bleak ,house allusions to the bowl are infrequent4 ,the rag-shop 8,lord ,chancellor0 cremated himself with the aid of gin1 and ,mr4 ,tulkinghorn had a weakness for old port4 ,mr4 ,bucket favoured brown sherry1 and ,harold ,skimpole would nibble a peach and sip claret1 with an execution in his house4 ,this is one of the best characters drawn by ,dickens2 and although the type is not a familiar one1 ,i have met him in the flesh4 ,dombey and ,son is by no means a 8thirsty0 work2 though ,joey ,bagstock was a votary of the bowl1 like old ,mrs4 ,brown4 ,the rest of the company put together 7,i except 8the ,chicken07 would not have enabled a publican to pay his rent1 and one of the most melancholy parts of the book is the mention made therein of only one bottle of the old ,madeira remaining in the cellar of ,sol ,gills1 at a time when most of the other characters in the book--male and female--are making use of his house4 ,next to my ,pickwick ,i love my ,great ,expectations4 ,brandy-and-tar- water1 imbibed by ,pumblechook1 in mistake1 at the ,christmas dinner1 should properly come under the heading of 8,strange ,swallows02 but the capacity of those two bottles of port and sherry1 which he brought as a present on that occasion1 has always been a puzzle to me4 ,joe1 probably1 would not be allowed more than a glass1 and1 naturally1 #bbc little ,pip would be out of it2 but there remained ,wopsle1 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,hubble1 and ,pumblechook himself2 whilst afterwards the sergeant joined in the treat1 and had two glasses4 ,and all these people were served from one bottle2 for we are distinctly told that the second cork was not drawn until the first bottle had been emptied4 ,miss ,havisham's relations having been brewers1 beer was naturally the refreshment offered to little ,pip1 whilst in service there1 although there seems to have been a bottle or two of wine in the cellars1 for the benefit of ,mr4 ,jaggers and others4 ,that worthy1 like most successful lawyers of the present day1 was a light luncher--a sandwich1 and the contents of a flask of sherry serving him for the purpose2 but we are told that at his dinners both meat and drink were unexceptionable4 ,his great hand always savoured of scented soap1 and at luncheon the odour of superior sherry pervaded his office4 ,the convict's emissary1 himself a released felon1 stirred his rum-and-water with a file2 and this appears to have been the favoured drink of the 8returned transport10 ,magwitch4 ,there was a large consumption of port and sherry--chiefly by ,pumblechook--after the remains of ,mrs4 ,gargery had been consigned to the earth2 and what with frequent visits1 on the part of the inhabitants of those parts1 to 8,the ,jolly ,bargemen0 and 8,the ,boar10 the landlords of those establishments must have done a thriving trade indeed4 ,i wonder if ,sir ,wilfrid ,lawson1 or any other eminent abstainer1 ever picked up a volume of #bbd the ,pickwick ,papers for the purpose of perusal8 ,if so1 and it was an illustrated edition1 the frontispiece must have made his heart quail2 for it represents ,pickwick himself standing on a chair addressing a more or less excited audience1 all seated at a long table1 and each with a cigar or pipe in his mouth1 and a large tumbler in front of him4 ,and if the eminent abstainer cared to carry his researches farther1 he would discover that ere the ,pickwickian deputation had started on their first journey they had taken part in a street fight1 eventually quelled by the arrival of a perfect stranger1 who celebrates the occasion by calling for glasses round of brandy-and-water1 hot and strong6 ,the ,pickwick ,paper absolutely reek with alcohol1 from title-page to name and address of printer4 ,everybody drinks with everybody else1 both in and out of the ,fleet ,prison4 ,the hospitality of the good people is unbounded1 and good and bad alike do it full justice4 ,the very instant the belated travellers have crossed the threshold of ,dingley ,dell they are fed with cherry brandy4 ,the entire deputation has 8,katzenjammer10 on the morning after their arrival at ,rochester1 and a duel1 or an attempted one1 is the consequence4 ,in coffee-room1 bar-parlour1 or smoking-room1 an introduction1 a story1 or a song is an excuse for a bowl of punch4 ,wherever the ,pickwickians go they carry trouble1 more or less amusing to the reader1 and the trouble is invariably followed by revelry4 ,that two medical students should wash down their oysters with neat brandy--and before #bbe breakfast--seems at the first glance an impossibility2 but many of those who know for certain the effects of undue indulgence are the most careless in indulging1 and ,bob ,sawyer and his still more rascally friend and fellow-student ,ben ,allen are reckless types of a reckless profession4 ,the same meal--oysters cum brandy--is partaken of1 later on1 by ,solomon ,pell and the coachman2 and ,dickens probably knew that lawyers and stage-drivers1 like sailors1 can digest anything4 ,the most drunken man in the book1 8the ,shepherd10 is an alleged teetotaller2 and the abstaining division will assuredly never forgive ,dickens for his word-painting of ,stiggins1 whose 8vanity0 was pine-apple rum with hot water and plenty of sugar4 ,the ,wellers1 pre et fils1 were not conservative in their potations2 and whether 8the inwariable0 is ,wellerese for brandy hot1 or rum hot1 ,i am still uncertain1 although many correspondents have sought to enlighten me on the subject2 said correspondents being anything but unanimous4 ,one of the most favoured beverages mentioned in the work is 8cold punch10 by which ,i understand milk-punch1 a very 8more-ish0 draught indeed4 ,i have prolonged this chapter perhaps unduly4 ,but the subject of the ,drinks of ,dickens is too important a one to slur over4 ,the man who cannot appreciate ,pickwick has never yet come my way4 ,there is a peculiar charm about the book1 a broad hospitality1 an unbounded love of the good things of this life which must endear it to the hearts of true sons of ,britannia1 who will revel1 on occasion1 no matter what obstacles may #bbf be placed in their way4 ,and this is the method of procedure1 the potation being occasionally varied1 which succeeded all the troubles of the friends3-- 8,so to keep up their good humour they stopped at the first roadside tavern they came to0--this was after the punch and pound incident--8and ordered a glass of brandy-and-water all round1 with a magnum of extra strength for ,mr4 ,samuel ,weller40 #bbg ,,chapter ,,xx ,,sworn ,,off6 ,introduction of temperance into ,england -- ,america struck it first -- ,doctor ,johnson an abstainer -- ,collapse of the ,permissive ,bill -- ,human nature and forbidden fruit -- ,effects of repressive legislation -- ,sunday closing in ,wales -- ,paraffin for miners -- ,toasting ,her ,majesty -- ,a good win -- ,a shout and a drink -- ,jesuitical logic of the prohibitioners -- ,the end justifies the means -- ,a few non-alcoholic recipes -- ,abstainers and alcohol -- ,pure spring-water v4 milk-punch -- 8,tried baith60 ,the first temperance society in ,england was formed at ,bradford1 ,yorkshire1 on the #bnd ,february #ahcj1 the chief mover having been ,mr4 ,henry ,forbes1 who had signed the pledge at ,glasgow4 ,but the use of ardent spirits was condemned by many medical practitioners early in the seventeenth century1 although the ,united ,kingdom does not seem to have abstained from strong waters any the more4 ,repressive legislation1 in order to inculcate sobriety1 was tried in ,massachusetts1 ,u4,s41 early in the present century1 but a few years before a society had been formed at ,moreau1 ,new ,york ,state1 in order to prohibit the consumption of both wines and spirits1 except #bbh medicinally1 or wine except at public dinners or in the ,lord's ,supper4 ,the work whence ,i have gleaned the above details also informs the reader that 8such as ,doctor ,samuel ,johnson and ,john ,howard set an example of abstinence from all inebriating drinks02 which1 as far as ,doctor ,johnson is concerned1 is somewhat startling news to myself4 ,i had always imagined that the burly lexicographer--,i was reproved by a critic for calling him this in ,cakes and ,ale--was a bit of a boon companion2 and the records of ,fleet ,street taverns by no means tend to contradict this idea4 ,not only is the hard1 oaken seat at one end of the dining-room of 8,ye ,olde ,cheshyre ,cheese0 marked with a brass plate1 with a suitable inscription1 but the many visitors to that snug hostelry1 including hundreds of our ,american cousins1 are always taken upstairs and shewn ,doctor ,johnson's chair4 ,did 8,sam10 and 8,davy10 and 8,noll0 slake their thirst on cold water1 beneath that tavern's roof8 ,i trow not4 ,cross out ,doctor ,johnson's name as a total abstainer1 please4 ,in #ahcd1 ,mr4 ,j4 ,s4 ,buckingham1 who was returned for ,sheffield to the first ,reform ,parliament1 succeeded in obtaining a select committee of the ,house of ,commons1 to enquire into the causes1 extent1 and remedies of drunkenness4 ,in the meantime the limitation of the pledge to abstention from ardent spirits had proved a greater drawback than in other countries1 because beer had been the popular beverage1 and its use a cause of widespread drunkenness before ardent spirits were commonly sold4 ,but the idea of #bbi our legislators before #ahcd had been that 8good malt and hops could injure nobody40 ,from '#cd to '#de there was great activity in the temperance ranks throughout the world2 and in '#ec the ,united ,kingdom ,alliance for the ,legislative ,suppression of the ,liquor ,traffic was formed1 its first president being ,sir ,w4 ,c4 ,trevelyan4 ,in ,march '#fd a ,permissive ,prohibitory ,bill was brought into the ,house of ,commons1 but although repeatedly re-introduced it never obtained a second reading4 ,nor is it likely that such a ,bill will ever become law as long as the sons of ,britannia are living outside a state of slavery4 ,repressive legislation serves only to stimulate that which it claims to check2 and thus it is that these would-be reformers1 whether ,prohibitors of the ,drink ,traffic1 ,vigilance and ,purity ,societies1 and ,anti-gambling ,societies have succeeded in making the state of ,london infinitely worse1 as regards drunkenness1 chastity1 and betting1 than it was forty years ago4 ,poor frail humanity will always do the thing which it ought not to do in preference to fulfilling its obligations4 ,it has been so since the beginning of the world1 and will continue so until the end4 ,forbidden fruit has ever been the sweetest2 and it is characteristic of mankind--and more especially of womankind--to oppose1 as far as they can1 any attempt at restraint4 ,what has been the effect of closing ,cremorne ,gardens1 the ,argyll ,rooms1 and other public resorts where dancing and revelry were carried on until the small hours1 five-and-twenty years ago8 #bcj ,the evil took refuge in the open streets1 and1 more recently1 in so-called social clubs1 in which illicit liquors were1 and are1 sold1 and the pander1 and the pimp1 and the bully met1 and meet the drunkard1 the dupe1 and the greenhorn4 ,what has been the effect of the ,anti-gambling ,crusade8 ,to create working-men bookmakers4 ,this is a fact4 ,in most large warehouses and factories there are employs who will lay 8starting prices10 in shillings and sixpences1 to their mates4 ,there is not a tithe of the amount wagered amongst the upper classes that there was in the fifties and sixties2 but amongst the horny-handed sons of toil the vice has increased to an enormous extent1 mainly owing to repressive legislation4 ,if a man wants to gamble there is only one factor to prevent him--impecuniosity2 and even that factor need not prevent a man from having a drink if he waits in the tap-room long enough on pay-day4 ,since ,sunday closing in ,wales1 shebeens have arisen by the hundred2 and paraffin1 for want of a better drink1 is still drunk on the ,sabbath day1 by the miners in the ,rhondda ,valley4 ,all honour to him who abstains from strong drink for conscience' sake1 or in the hope that others may profit by his example4 ,but the lash of scorn for him who because he does not swallow fermented refreshment himself1 says to his brother 8,thou shalt not drink60 ,the ,puritans abolished bear-baiting1 not on account of the cruelty to the bears1 but because the alleged sport gave pleasure to the people2 and the ,puritans of the day1 who forbid cakes and ale1 #bca and hunting1 and horse-racing1 do so for the self-same reason4 8,he who does not smoke10 said the sage1 8has known no great sorrow40 ,similarly1 it may be urged that he who never joins in a friendly glass has known no great joy4 ,do we express our unfeigned joy and thankfulness for having a great and good ,queen to reign over us by toasting her in flat soda-water8 ,forbid the deed6 ,when our sons return from the midst of many and great dangers1 from the battle-field1 the raging deep1 or the land of savages1 do we express our delight by putting the kettle on to boil8 ,avaunt6 ,i have known a man who had won #bg1jjj on a certain ,wednesday at ,ascot1 dine that same night off a chump chop1 chips1 and a bottle of ginger-beer1 at a coffee-house no great distance from ,fleet ,street4 ,and he gave the waitress one penny for herself1 and counselled her not to 8get gamblin' 0 with it4 ,but amongst my own personal friends1 when the fancied horse catches the eye of the judge1 there is revelry2 and who shall say that they sin thereby8 ,i do not believe in the man who takes his winnings sadly--or at all events impassively4 8,a shout1 and a drink1 and then sit down and write about it10 is the programme pursued by a journalistic friend2 and although ,i do not always 8write about it10 'tis much the same programme pursued by myself4 ,nor do we rejoice for the sole reason that we have got the better of somebody else4 ,for1 alas6 the balance at the end of the year is far too often in favour of that 8somebody else40 8,on the question of the prohibition of the #bcb liquor traffic10 says an authority on the ethics or total abstinence1 8there has been much controversy4 ,its opponents have contended that it is an invasion of personal liberty2 that even when imposed by a majority it is a violation of the rights of the minority1 and that all that is really required is such a magisterial and police supervision as will repress drunkenness as much as possible1 and inflict different penalties on offenders4 ,to this statement various answers are returned4 ,with regard to the violation of personal liberty the prohibitionists maintain that in one sense all law interferes with liberty4 ,a good law interferes with the liberty to do wrong4 ,therefore1 they say1 assuming that the common sale of drinks wrongs the public a law interfering with this wrong is in accord with true liberty4 ,they hold that individual profit must be subservient to the public welfare1 ,salus populi suprema lex4 ,if hardship is alleged as affecting the buyer1 the statement of ,john ,stuart ,mill is quoted1 who declared that every artificial augmentation of the price of an article is prohibition to the more or less poor2 yet there is hardly any government which does not in some way or other legislate so that the price of intoxicants is increased4 ,as to the possibility of extirpating intemperance by means of strict regulation as to the sale of drink1 the prohibitionists affirm that the existing system has been tried for hundreds of years1 and often under the most favourable circumstances for its success1 and that yet the licensing system1 as judged by its fruits1 is confessed to be a melancholy failure40 #bcc ,my remarks on the above are few and simple4 ,it is this very ,jesuitical logic which has earned the 8prohibitionists0 the contempt of all friends of freedom4 ,it is this false and tyrannical doctrine which asserts that 8the end justifies the means10 which still stinks in the nostrils of the majority of the people's representatives in ,parliament4 ,now for a few hints as to some non-alcoholic beverages4 ,and first of all let it be stated that the thirsty man can do much worse than turn to a teetotal beverage--as long as he avoids the bottled flatulence which is sold1 and freely advertised outside1 in pretty nearly every country cottage which can boast of good accommodation for travellers1 and a bicycle shed4 ,the iced fruit-fizzers of ,mr4 ,sainsbury--where the pick-me-ups come from--close to the ,lady's ,pictorial office1 are1 to my personal knowledge1 freely patronized in summer-time by habitual worshippers at the shrine of ,bacchus4 ,moreover a follower of the sport of kings would rather go without whisky all the afternoon than miss his cup of tea1 after business hours4 ,no directions are needed here for the manufacture of tea or coffee4 ,every housewife has a way of her own2 and it is as the laws of the ,medes and ,persians that her way is the only way4 ,nor need a discussion be entered on as to the respective merits of different brands of cocoa4 ,a ,superior ,lemon ,squash4 ,take the juice of eight lemons1 and sweeten it1 allowing one tablespoonful of sifted sugar to each #bcd lemon4 ,put the juice into an enamelled saucepan and simmer gently over the fire until the sugar is quite dissolved4 ,beat up the white of one egg1 add to the syrup1 and stir well till the mixture boils2 let it boil for a minute or two1 and pour gently through a jelly-bag into a basin4 ,when quite cold add a quarter of an ounce of citric acid1 bottle1 and cork tightly4 ,when required for use1 put six drops of ,angostura bitters in a soda-water tumbler1 turn it round and round1 then add a wine-glassful of the squash1 fill up with soda-water1 place a thin slice of lemon atop1 and serve with two straws4 ,almond ,comfy4 ,put six ounces of pulverized sweet almonds and two ounces of smashed bitters ditto into a saucepan with one quart of water1 and let it simmer for a quarter of an hour2 then add one pound of sifted sugar4 ,when dissolved strain through a hair sieve or jelly-bag1 and add a tablespoonful of orange-flower water4 ,when cold1 a wine-glassful of the mixture should be put into a tumbler1 which should be filled up with soda-or ,seltzer-water4 ,temperance ,cider4 ,put half a gallon of water on to boil1 and when boiling throw into the saucepan a dozen medium-sized apples1 cut into slices unpeeled4 ,keep the lot boiling until quite tender1 then strain till dry1 taking care not to let any of the pulp escape through the sieve4 ,add sifted sugar ad lib41 and the juice of two lemons4 ,let the mixture stand until cool1 when it will be ready for use4 ,of course ice is an improvement1 in warm weather4 ,and only add a soupon of eau de vie when you are quite alone4 #bce ,the next item on the programme is called in my book1 ,drink for ,dog ,days1 but as this is not a nice name1 and suggests hydrophobia and--other things1 ,i will re-christen it ,citron de ,luxe4 ,the composition is very simple4 ,put a lemon-ice in a large tumbler1 fill up with soda-water1 stir well1 and drink4 ,n4,b4--,mr4 ,george ,krehl1 of 8,verrey's10 who knows something about dog days1 and dogs1 won the prize offered in the ,sporting ,times for the best recipe for a summer drink1 many years ago1 with a similar suggestion4 ,but ,g4 ,k4 added a small glass of ,curaoa1 and 7,i think7 a drop or two of ,angostura bitters4 ,cherry ,cobbler ,take one pound of cherries of ,kent1 free from stalks and stones4 ,throw them into a pint of boiling syrup1 made of one pound of loaf-sugar dissolved in one pint of water4 ,let the cherries boil as fast as possible--8gallop0 is1 ,i believe1 the technical word--for ten minutes1 and then add a quart of boiling water2 put the whole into a pan1 and when cold strain4 ,the addition of soda-water will make it all the more watery4 ,d4 ,d4 ,this is not naughty language1 but short for ,delicious ,drink4 ,mix together one pint of raspberries1 one pint of #bcf strawberries1 and one pint of white currants1 all free from stalks2 mash them well together1 and then add two quarts of boiling water1 and three quarters of a pound of sifted sugar4 ,let the mixture remain in a bowl all night--unless you make it early in the morning1 when all day will do as well--then strain1 and give it the dear children before their dinner4 ,raspberry ,squash4 ,put into a large soda-water tumbler one tablespoonful of raspberry syrup1 one tablespoonful of lemon squash 7vide above7 and a lump of ice2 nearly fill the glass with soda-water1 and ornament with a thin slice of lemon1 and a few red and white raspberries4 ,drink through straws4 ,raspberry ,vinegar4 ,take ripe1 dry raspberries1 and pour over them sufficient good malt vinegar to cover them2 let them stand three or four days1 stirring occasionally with a silver spoon4 ,on the fourth day1 strain through a sieve1 and let them drain for some hours2 measure the juice1 and add an equal quantity of sifted sugar2 put into a lined preserving pan1 and let the mixture boil gently for five or six minutes4 ,carefully remove the scum as it rises4 ,when cold1 bottle1 and cork well4 ,a wine-glassful with a bottle of soda-water is a refreshing 8cooler0 in illness4 ,elderberry ,punch4 ,put two bottles of elderberry wine1 hallo6 what's this8 ,i turn to the recipe for ,elder ,wine1 and read3 8,a quart of brandy thrown into the cask #bcg when it is about to be sealed up will greatly improve the wine40 ,then what sort of a temperance drink can ,elderberry ,punch be8 ,no more on that head1 in the name of ,st4 ,wilfrid4 ,i also read1 in the work of reference from which ,i am quoting1 under the same heading1 8,temperance ,drinks10 that3-- 8,many of the ,british wines1 mixed with an equal quantity of water1 with a little ice1 make very cool and refreshing drinks40 ,very1 very likely4 ,but can there be wine without fermentation8 ,and are the total abstainers1 not content with drinking alcoholic gingerade and stone ginger-beer1 getting the wedge in still further4 ,forbid it6 ,cold ,spring-water is a most excellent drink1 and according to so great an authority as ,sir ,henry ,thompson1 not only the cheapest drink in the world but the best4 ,for my own poor part ,i prefer milk-punch4 ,and as the ,scotchman said1 ,i have 8tried baith40 #bci ,,index ,,of ,,recipes ,absinthe1 #aae4 ,ale1 ,brasenose1 #ei 2 brewing of1 #eb1 #ec1 #gj 2 cock1 #da1 #db 2 cup1 see cup 2 flip1 see flip 2 mulled1 #ee 2 posset1 see posset 2 rum and1 see rum 2 sangaree1 see sangaree4 ,almond comfy1 #bcd 2 punch1 see punch4 ,anchovy toast1 #bjd4 ,anisette1 #aia4 ,apple ,jack sour1 see sour4 ,apricock wine1 #cd4 ,apricot brandy1 see brandy4 ,arctic regions1 see cocktail4 ,arrack1 #aah4 ,baltimore egg nogg1 see nogg4 ,barley wine1 #de4 ,bastard1 white1 #ch4 ,beer soup1 #ed 2 brewing of1 #ec4 ,bengal cocktail1 see cocktail4 ,birch1 #cj4 ,bishop1 #adj4 ,bitters1 #bji4 ,black stripe1 #aga4 ,blue blazer1 #afi4 ,booze1 rum1 see rum4 ,bosom caresser1 #aga4 ,bourbon sour1 see sour4 ,braggonet1 see mead and braggon4 ,brandy1 apricot1 #aia 2 burning1 #aff 2 carraway1 #aij 2 champirelle1 #agj 2 cherry1 see cherry 2 cocktail1 see cocktail 2 daisy1 #aeb 2 ginger1 #aij 2 orange1 #aib 2 orange-flower1 #aij 2 sangaree1 see sangaree 2 scaffa1 #afj 2 smash1 see smas 2 sour1 see sour4 ,brasenose ale1 see ale4 ,brazil relish1 #bjh4 ,brewing of ale1 see ale 2 beer1 see beer4 ,brown ,betty1 #eg4 ,bull's milk1 see milk4 ,burglar's brew1 #aed4 ,burning brandy1 see brandy4 ,butter and rum1 see rum4 ,capillaire punch1 see punch4 ,carraway brandy1 see brandy4 ,cassis1 #aid4 ,catawba cobbler1 see cobbler4 ,chablis cup1 see cup4 ,champagne cup1 see cup 2 cocktail1 see cocktail 2 ,english1 #dj 2 punch1 see punch 2 smash1 see smash4 ,cherry brandy1 #ahe1 #ahf1 #ahg 2 cobbler1 see cobbler 2 gin1 see gin 2 whisky1 #ahg4 ,cider1 #agd 2 cup1 see cup 2 posset1 see posset 2 temperance1 #bcd4 ,citron de ,luxe1 see drink for dog days4 ,claret cup--,badminton1 ,balaclava1 ,donald's1 or 8,for'ard ,on0--see cup4 ,clary wine1 #cd4 ,classical sherbet1 see ,oxford punch4 ,cobbler1 ,catawba1 #aej 2 cherry1 #bce 2 ,hatfield1 #aej 2 ,moselle1 #aej4 ,cock ale1 see ale4 ,cocktail1 ,arctic regions1 #aea 2 ,bengal1 #aeg 2 brandy1 #aee 2 champagne1 #aef 2 ,coomassie1 #aef 2 gin1 #hh1 #aeg 2 ,jersey1 #aef 2 ,jockey ,club1 #aeh 2 ,manhattan1 #aef 2 ,martini1 #aeh 2 ,newport1 #aeg 2 ,saratoga1 #aea4 ,cocktail sherry1 #aeh 2 sunrise1 #aeh 2 swizzle1 #aeg 2 whisky1 #aei4 ,cold tankard1 see cider cup4 ,colleen ,bawn1 #aga4 ,coomassie cocktail1 see cocktail4 ,cordial1 ginger1 #aig 2 ,highland1 #ahh 2 saffron1 #aib4 ,corpse reviver1 #afj4 ,crimean cup1 see cup4 ,cup1 ale1 #ee 2 chablis1 #ii 2 champagne1 #ih 2 cider1 #id 2 claret1 #ia1 #ib1 #ic 2 ,crimean1 #ie1 #ig 2 ,freemason1 #ii 2 loving1 #ig 2 perry1 #ie 2 porter1 #ajj 2 race day1 #ig 2 red1 #ii 2 ,rochester1 #ih 2 tennis1 #ajj4 ,curaoa1 #aic4 ,d4 ,d41 #bce4 ,devilled biscuit1 #bji4 ,doctor1 #afi4 ,drink for dog days1 #bce4 ,ebulum1 #da4 ,egg flip1 see flip4 ,egg nogg1 see nogg 2 ,baltimore1 see nogg 2 sherry1 see sherry4 ,egg punch1 see punch4 ,elderberry punch1 see punch4 ,english ale1 #ee-eg 2 champagne1 see champagne 2 punch1 see punch 2 sack1 see sack4 ,flip1 ale1 #ee1 #eg 2 egg1 #ij4 ,freemason1 see cup4 ,frontiniac wine1 #df4 ,gin and ginger beer1 #hh 2 cherry1 #ahg 2 cocktail1 see cocktail 2 punch1 see punch 2 sangaree1 see sangaree 2 sling1 see sling 2 sloe1 #ahh 2 smash1 see smash 2 sour1 see sour4 ,ginger beer and gin1 see gin4 ,ginger brandy1 see brandy 2 cordial1 see cordial4 ,glasgow punch1 see punch4 ,golden slipper1 #afj4 ,halo punch1 see punch4 ,hatfield cobbler1 see cobbler4 ,heap of comfort1 #afa4 ,highland cordial1 see cordial4 ,hippocras1 #ahc4 ,home ,ruler1 #aff4 ,jersey cocktail1 see cocktail4 ,jockey ,club cocktail1 see cocktail4 ,john ,collins1 see sling4 ,julep 7or julap71 #aeb 2 mint1 #aec 2 pine-apple1 #aec4 ,king ,charles ,,ii4's surfeit water1 #ahi4 ,kirschenwasser1 #aie4 ,knickerbein1 #aei4 ,kmmel1 #aij4 ,l',amour ,pousse1 #aei4 ,lemon squash1 see squash 2 wine1 #dd4 ,locomotive1 #afi4 ,loving cup1 see cup4 ,malmsey1 #ci4 ,manhattan cocktail1 see cocktail4 ,martini cocktail1 see cocktail4 ,mead1 #bg 2 and ,braggon or ,braggonet1 #cj4 ,metheglin1 #bh4 ,milk1 bull's1 #aeb1 #agj 2 and rum1 see rum 2 punch1 see punch4 ,mint-julep1 see julep4 ,moselle cobbler1 see cobbler4 ,mother-in-law1 #eh4 ,muskadine1 #dd4 ,negus1 port wine1 #afh 2 sherry1 #afh4 ,newport cocktail1 see cocktail4 ,nogg1 ,baltimore egg1 #bje 2 egg1 #afh 2 sherry egg1 #afh4 ,noyeau punch1 see punch4 ,orange brandy1 see brandy 2 flower brandy1 see brandy4 ,orange quinine1 #bjg4 ,orgeat1 #if4 ,oxford punch1 see punch4 ,pepper posset1 see posset4 ,perry cup1 see cup4 ,pick-me-up1 #bjd 2 ,st4 ,mark's1 #bjh4 ,pine-apple julep1 see julep4 ,pope1 #agj4 ,pope's posset1 see posset4 ,port wine negus1 see negus 2 sangaree1 see sangaree4 ,porter cup1 see cup4 ,porteree1 see sangaree4 ,posset1 ale1 #ee 2 cider1 #agb4 ,posset1 pepper1 #agb 2 ,pope's1 #df 2 sack1 #cb1 #agc4 ,prairie oyster1 #afg4 ,punch1 almond1 #aaj 2 capillaire1 #ajf 2 champagne1 #aac 2 egg1 #aaa 2 elderberry1 #bcf 2 ,english1 #ajd 2 gin1 #hh1 #ajg 2 ,glasgow1 #ajd 2 halo1 #aad 2 milk1 #ajg 2 noyeau1 #ajg 2 ,oxford1 #aje1 #ajg 2 rack1 #aab 2 restorative1 #aaj 2 shrub1 #aaa 2 ,uncle ,toby1 #aab 2 ,vauxhall1 #aab 2 ,victoria1 #aac 2 ,yorkshire1 #aac4 ,quince whisky1 see whisky4 ,race-day cup1 see cup4 ,rack punch1 see punch4 ,raspberry squash1 see squash 2 vinegar1 see vinegar4 ,red cup1 see cup4 ,renish wine1 #dg4 ,restorative punch1 see punch4 ,rochester cup1 see cup4 ,rum and ale1 #he 2 and butter1 #he 2 and milk1 #he 2 booze1 #hi4 ,rumfustian1 #eh1 #agj4 ,sack1 ,english1 #cb 2 posset1 see posset4 ,saffron cordial1 see cordial4 ,st4 ,mark's pick-me-up1 see pick-me-up4 ,sangaree ale1 #afb 2 brandy1 #afb 2 gin1 #afc 2 port wine1 #afc 2 porteree1 #afc 2 sherry1 #afc4 ,santa ,cruz smash1 see smash4 ,saragossa wine1 see ,english sack4 ,saratoga brace-up1 #aed 2 cocktail1 see cocktail4 ,scaffa1 brandy1 see brandy4 ,scorcher1 #bjg4 ,sherry cocktail1 see cocktail 2 egg nogg1 see nogg 2 negus1 see negus 2 sangaree1 see sangaree 2 sour1 see sour4 ,shrub punch1 see punch4 ,sling1 #afc 2 gin1 #hh 2 ,john ,collins1 #hh1 #afc4 ,sloe gin1 see gin4 ,smash1 brandy1 #afd 2 champagne1 #afd 2 gin1 #afd 2 ,santa ,cruz1 #afd 2 whisky1 #afd4 ,sour1 apple ,jack1 #afe 2 ,bourbon1 #afe 2 brandy1 #afe 2 gin1 #afe 2 sherry1 #aff 2 whisky1 #afe4 ,spleen1 to cure1 #bjc4 ,squash1 lemon1 #bcc 2 raspberry1 #bcf4 ,strengthener1 #bjf4 ,sunrise cocktail1 see cocktail4 ,surgeon-,major1 #afi4 ,swig1 see wassail4 ,swizzle1 see cocktail4 ,temperance cider1 see cider4 ,tennis cup1 see cup4 ,turkey oyster1 #afg4 ,twist1 #aie4 ,uncle1 see mother-in-law 2 ,toby1 see punch4 ,usquebaugh1 #cc4 ,vauxhall punch1 see punch4 ,victoria punch1 see punch4 ,vinegar1 raspberry1 #bcf4 ,wassail1 #ef4 ,whisky1 cherry1 see cherry 2 cocktail1 see cocktail 2 quince1 #aia 2 smash1 see smash 2 sour1 see sour4 ,white bastard1 see bastard 2 wine whey1 #agb4 ,worcester oyster1 #bjh4 ,yorkshire punch1 see punch4 ,,the ,,end ,printed by ,r4 ,r4 ,,clark1 ,,limited1 ,edinburgh4 99 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's note3 ,original spelling and grammar have been generally retained1 with some exceptions noted below4 ,the index was originally structured rather inconsistently as a nested list1 with line-breaks separating list items4 ,in these ebook editions1 semicolons have been inserted between list items1 with full stop inserted at the end of each top-level entry4 ,the original book separated key terms from page references with comma1 and key terms from see other topic with semicolon2 the latter have been changed to comma4 ,one particularly complicated top-level heading1 8,egg01 has been split into three top-level entries1 8,egg flip01 8,egg nogg01 and 8,egg punch04 ,page #hb4 #8,collins--' to #8,collins0--'4 ,page #aba4 #8,orginal' to #8,original'4 ,page #abf4 #8 8champagne07 ' to #8 8champagne071'4