,,time ,,and ,,change ,,by ,,john ,,burroughs ,,boston ,,and ,,new ,,york #aiab ,,preface ,i suspect that in this volume my reader will feel that ,i have given him a stone when he asked for bread1 and his feeling in this respect will need no apology4 ,i fear there is more of the matter of hard science and of scientific speculation in this collection than of spiritual and aesthetic nutriment2 but ,i do hope the volume is not entirely destitute of the latter4 ,if ,i have not in some degree succeeded in transmuting my rocks into a kind of wholesome literary bread1 or1 to vary the figure1 in turning them into a soil in which some green thing or flower of human interest and emotion may take root and grow1 then1 indeed1 have ,i come short of the end ,i had in view4 ,i am well aware that my own interest in geology far outruns my knowledge1 but if ,i can in some degree kindle that interest in my reader1 ,i shall be putting him on the road to a fuller knowledge than ,i possess4 ,as with other phases of nature1 ,i have probably loved the rocks more than ,i have studied them4 ,in my youth ,i delighted in lingering about and beneath the ledges of my native hills1 partly in the spirit of adventure and a boy's love of the wild1 and partly with an eye to their curious forms1 and the evidences of immense time that looked out from their gray and crumbling fronts4 ,i was in the presence of ,geologic ,time1 and was impressed by the scarred and lichen-coated veteran without knowing who or what he was4 ,but he put a spell upon me that has deepened as the years have passed1 and now my boyhood ledges are more interesting to me than ever4 ,if one gains an interest in the history of the earth1 he is quite sure to gain an interest in the history of the life on the earth4 ,if the former illustrates the theory of development1 so must the latter4 ,the geologist is pretty sure to be an evolutionist4 ,as science turns over the leaves of the great rocky volume1 it sees the imprint of animals and plants upon them and it traces their changes and the appearance of new species from age to age4 ,the biologic tree has grown and developed as the geologic soil in which it is rooted has deepened and ripened4 ,i am sure ,i was an evolutionist in the abstract1 or by the quality and complexion of my mind1 before ,i read ,darwin1 but to become an evolutionist in the concrete1 and accept the doctrine of the animal origin of man1 has not for me been an easy matter4 ,the essays on the subject in this volume are the outcome of the stages of brooding and thinking which ,i have gone through in accepting this doctrine4 ,i am aware that there is much repetition in them1 but maybe on that very account they will help my reader to go along with me over the long road we have to travel to reach this conclusion4 ,july1 #aiab4 ,,contents ,i4 ,,the ,,long ,,road ,,ii4 ,,the ,,divine ,,abyss ,,iii4 ,,the ,,spell ,,of ,,the ,,yosemite ,,iv4 ,,through ,,the ,,eyes ,,of ,,the ,,geologist ,v4 ,,holidays ,,in ,,hawaii ,,vi4 ,,the ,,old ,,ice ,,flood ,,vii4 ,,the ,,friendly ,,soil ,,viii4 ,,primal ,,energies ,,ix4 ,,scientific ,,faith ,x4 ,,the ,,worm ,,striving ,,to ,,be ,,man ,,xi4 ,,the ,,phantoms ,,behind ,,us ,,xii4 ,,the ,,hazards ,,of ,,the ,,past ,,xiii4 ,,the ,,gospel ,,of ,,nature ,,time ,,and ,,change ,i ,,the ,,long ,,road ,i ,the long road ,i have in mind is the long road of evolution1--the road you and ,i have traveled in the guise of humbler organisms1 from the first unicellular life in the old ,cambrian seas to the complex and highly specialized creature that rules supreme in the animal kingdom to-day4 ,surely a long journey1 stretching through immeasurable epochs of geologic time1 and attended by vicissitudes of which we can form but feeble conceptions4 ,the majority of readers1 ,i fancy1 are not yet ready to admit that they1 or any of their forebears1 have ever made such a journey4 ,we have all long been taught that our race was started upon its career only a few thousand years ago1 started1 not amid the warrings of savage elemental nature1 but in a pleasant garden with everything needed close at hand4 ,this belief has faded a good deal in our time1 especially among thoughtful persons2 but in a modified form1 as the special creation theory1 it held sway in the minds of the older naturalists like ,agassiz and ,dawson1 long after ,darwin had launched his revolutionary doctrine of our animal origin1 putting man in the same zoological scheme as the lower orders4 ,we are slow to adjust our minds to the revelations of science1 they have been so long adjusted to a revelation1 so-called1 of an entirely different character4 ,it gives them a wrench more or less violent when we try to make them at home and at their ease amid these new and startling disclosures4 ,to many good people evolution seems an ungodly doctrine1 like setting up a remorseless logic in the place of an omnipresent ,creator4 ,but there is no help for it4 ,science has fairly turned us out of our comfortable little anthropomorphic notion of things into the great out-of-doors of the universe4 ,we must and will get used to the chill1 yea1 to the cosmic chill1 if need be4 ,our religious instincts will be all the hardier for it4 ,when we accepted ,newton's discovery of the force called gravitation1 we virtually surrendered ourselves to the enemy1 and started upon a road1 the road of natural causation1 that traverses the whole system of created things4 ,we cannot turn back2 we may lie down by the roadside and dream our old dreams1 but our children and their children will press on1 and will be exhilarated by the journey4 ,it is at first sight an unpalatable truth that evolution confronts us with1 and it requires courage calmly to face it4 ,but it is in perfect keeping with the whole career of physical science1 which is forever directing our attention to common near-at-hand facts for the key to remote and mysterious occurrences4 ,it seems to me that evolution adds greatly to the wonder of life1 because it takes it out of the realm of the arbitrary1 the exceptional1 and links it to the sequence of natural causation4 ,that man should have been brought into existence by the fiat of an omnipotent power is less an occasion for wonder than that he should have worked his way up from the lower non-human forms4 ,that the manward impulse should never have been lost in all the appalling vicissitudes of geologic time1 that it should have pushed steadily on1 through mollusk and fish and amphibian and reptile1 through swimming and creeping and climbing things1 and that the forms that conveyed it should have escaped the devouring monsters of the earth1 sea1 and air till it came to its full estate in a human being1 is the wonder of wonders4 ,in like manner1 evolution raises immensely the value of the biological processes that are everywhere operative about us1 by showing us that these processes are the channels through which the creative energy has worked1 and is still working4 ,not in the far-off or in the exceptional does it seek the key to man's origin1 but in the sleepless activity of the creative force1 which has been pushing onward and upward1 from the remotest time1 till it has come to full fruition in man4 ,it is easy to inject into man's natural history a supernatural element1 as nearly all biologists and anthropologists before ,darwin's time did1 and as many serious people still do4 ,it is too easy1 in fact1 and the temptation to do so is great4 ,it makes short work of the problem of man's origin1 and saves a deal of trouble4 ,but this method is more and more discredited1 and the younger biologists and natural philosophers accept the zoological conception of man1 which links him with all the lower forms1 and proceed to work from that4 ,when we have taken the first step in trying to solve the problem of man's origin1 where can we stop8 ,can we find any point in his history where we can say1 ,here his natural history ends1 and his supernatural history begins8 ,does his natural history end with the pre-glacial man1 with the cave man1 or the river-drift man1 with the low-browed1 long-jawed fossil man of ,java1--,pithecanthropus erectus1 described by ,du ,bois8 ,where shall we stop on his trail8 ,i had almost said step on his tail1 for we undoubtedly1 if we go back far enough1 come to a time when man had a tail4 ,every unborn child at a certain stage of its development still has a tail1 as it also has a coat of hair and a hand-like foot4 ,but could we stop with the tailed man--the manlike ape1 or the apelike man8 ,did his ,creator start him with this appendage1 or was it a later suffix of his own invention8 ,if we once seriously undertake to solve the riddle of man's origin1 and go back along the line of his descent1 ,i doubt if we can find the point1 or the form1 where the natural is supplanted by the supernatural as it is called1 where causation ends and miracle begins4 ,even the first dawn of protozoic life in the primordial seas must have been natural1 or it would not have occurred1--must have been potential in what went before it4 ,in this universe1 so far as we know it1 one thing springs from another2 the sequence of cause and effect is continuous and inviolable4 ,we know that no man is born of full stature1 with his hat and boots on2 we know that he grows from an infant1 and we know the infant grows from a fetus1 and that the fetus grows from a bit of nucleated protoplasm in the mother's womb4 ,why may not the race of man grow from a like simple beginning8 ,it seems to be the order of nature2 it ,,is the order of nature1--first the germ1 the inception1 then the slow growth from the simple to the complex4 ,it is the order of our own thoughts1 our own arts1 our own civilization1 our own language4 ,in our candid moments we acknowledge the animal in ourselves and in our neighbors1--especially in our neighbors1--the beast1 the shark1 the hog1 the sloth1 the fox1 the monkey2 but to accept the notion of our animal origin1 that gives us pause4 ,to believe that our remote ancestor1 no matter how remote in time or space1 was a lowly organized creature living in the primordial seas with no more brains than a shovel-nosed shark or a gar-pike1 puts our scientific faith to severe test4 ,think of it4 ,for countless ages1 millions upon millions of years1 we see the earth swarming with life1 low bestial life1 devouring and devoured1 myriads of forms1 all in bondage to nature or natural forces1 living only to eat and to breed1 localized1 dependent upon place and clime1 shaped to specific ends like machines1--to fly1 to swim1 to climb1 to run1 to dig1 to drill1 to weave1 to wade1 to graze1 to crush1--knowing not what they do1 as void of conscious purpose as the thorns1 the stings1 the hooks1 the coils1 and the wings in the vegetable world1 making no impression upon the face of nature1 as much a part of it as the trees and the stones1 species after species having its day1 and then passing off the stage1 when suddenly1 in the day before yesterday in the geologic year1 so suddenly as to give some color of truth to the special creation theory1 a new and strange animal appears1 with new and strange powers1 separated from the others by what appears an impassable gulf1 less specialized in his bodily powers than the others1 but vastly more specialized in his brain and mental powers1 instituting a new order of things upon the earth1 the face of which he in time changes through his new gift of reason1 inventing tools and weapons and language1 harnessing the physical forces to his own ends1 and putting all things under his feet1--man the wonder-worker1 the beholder of the stars1 the critic and spectator of creation itself1 the thinker of the thoughts of ,god1 the worshiper1 the devotee1 the hero1 spreading rapidly over the earth1 and developing with prodigious strides when once fairly launched upon his career4 ,can it be possible1 we ask1 that this god was fathered by the low bestial orders below him1--instinct giving birth to reason1 animal ferocity developing into human benevolence1 the slums of nature sending forth the ruler of the earth4 ,it is a hard proposition1 ,i say1 undoubtedly the hardest that science has ever confronted us with4 ,haeckel1 discussing this subject1 suggests that it is the parvenu in us that is reluctant to own our lowly progenitors1 the pride of family and position1 like that of would-be aristocratic sons who conceal the humble origin of their parents4 ,but it is more than that2 it is the old difficulty of walking by faith where there is nothing visible to walk upon3 we lack faith in the efficiency of the biologic laws1 or any mundane forces1 to bridge the tremendous chasm that separates man from even the highest of the lower orders4 ,his radical unlikeness to all the forms below him1 as if he moved in a world apart1 into which they could never enter1 as in a sense he does1 is where the difficulty lies4 ,moreover1 evolution balks us because of the inconceivable stretch of time during which it has been at work4 ,it is as impossible for us to grasp geological time as sidereal space4 ,all the standards of measurement furnished us by experience are as inadequate as is a child's cup to measure the ocean4 ,several million years1 or one million years1--how can we take it in8 ,we cannot4 ,a hundred years is a long time in human history1 and how we pause before a thousand6 ,then think of ten thousand1 of fifty thousand1 of one hundred thousand1 of ten hundred thousand1 or one million1 or of one hundred million6 ,what might not the slow but ceaseless creative energy do in that time1 changing but a hair in each generation6 ,if our millionaires had to earn their wealth cent by cent1 and carry each cent home with them at night1 it would be some years before they became millionaires4 ,this is but a faint symbol of the slow process by which nature has piled up her riches4 ,she has had no visions of sudden wealth4 ,to clothe the earth with soil made from the disintegrated mountains--can we figure that time to ourselves8 ,the ,orientals try to get a hint of eternity by saying that when the ,himalayas have been ground to powder by allowing a gauze veil to float against them once in a thousand years1 eternity will only have just begun4 ,our mountains have been pulverized by a process almost as slow4 ,in our case the gauze veil is the air1 and the rains1 and the snows1 before which even granite crumbles4 ,see what the god of erosion1 in the shape of water1 has done in the river valleys and gorges--cut a mile deep in the ,colorado canyon1 and yet this canyon is but of yesterday in geologic time4 ,only give the evolutionary god time enough and all these miracles are surely wrought4 ,truly it is hard for us to realize what a part time has played in the earth's history1--just time1 duration1--so slowly1 oh1 so slowly1 have the great changes been brought about6 ,the turning of mud and silt into rock in the bottom of the old seas seems to have been merely a question of time4 ,mud does not become rock in man's time1 nor vegetable matter become coal4 ,these processes are too slow for us4 ,the flexing and folding of the rocky strata1 miles deep1 under an even pressure1 is only a question of time4 ,allow time enough and force enough1 and a layer of granite may be bent like a bow4 ,the crystals of the rock seem to adjust themselves to the strain1 and to take up new positions1 just as they do1 much more rapidly1 in a cake of ice under pressure4 ,probably no human agency could flex a stratum of rock1 because there is not time enough1 even if there were power enough4 ,a low temperature acting gradually1 says my geology1 during an indefinite age would produce results that could not be otherwise brought about even through greater heat4 ,give us time1 say the great mechanical forces1 and we will show you the immobile rocks and your rigid mountain chains as flexible as a piece of leather4 ,give us time1 say the dews and the rains and the snowflakes1 and we will make you a garden out of those same stubborn rocks and frowning ledges4 ,give us time1 says ,life1 starting with her protozoans in the old ,cambrian seas1 and ,i will not stop till ,i have peopled the earth with myriad forms and crowned them all with man4 ,dana thinks that had a man been living during the changes that produced the coal1 he would not have suspected their progress1 so slow and quiet were they4 ,it is probable that parts of our own sea-coast are sinking and other parts rising as rapidly as the oscillation of the land and sea went on that resulted in the laying down of the coal measures4 ,an eternity to man is but a day in the cosmic process4 ,in the face of geologic time1 man's appearance upon the earth as man1 with a written history1 is something that has just happened2 it was in this morning's paper1 we read of it at breakfast4 ,as evolution goes1 it will not be old news yet for a hundred thousand years or so1 and by that time1 what will he have done1 if he goes on at his present rate of accelerated speed8 ,probably he will not have caught the gods of evolution at their work1 or witnessed the origin of species by natural descent1 these things are too slow for him2 but he will certainly have found out many things that we are all eager to know4 ,in nature as a whole we see results and not processes4 ,we see the rock strata bent and folded1 we see the whole mountain-chains flexed and shortened by the flexure2 but had we been present1 we should not have suspected what was going on4 ,our little span of life does not give us the parallax necessary4 ,the rock strata1 miles thick1 may be being flexed now under our feet1 and we know it not4 ,the earth is shrinking1 but so slowly6 ,when1 under the slow strain1 the strata suddenly give way or sink1 and an earthquake results1 then we know something has happened4 ,a recent biologist and physicist thinks1 and doubtless thinks wisely1 that the reason why we have never been able to produce living from non-living matter in our laboratories1 is that we cannot take time enough4 ,even if we could bring about the conditions of the early geologic ages in which life had its dawn1 which of course we cannot1 we could not produce life because we have not geologic time at our disposal4 ,the reaction which we call life was probably as much a cosmic or geologic event as were the reactions which produced the different elements and compounds1 and demanded the same slow gestation in the womb of time4 ,during what cycles upon cycles the great mother-forces of the universe must have brooded over the inorganic before the organic was brought forth6 ,the archean age1 during which the brooding seems to have gone on1 was probably as long as all the ages since4 ,how we are baffled when we talk about the beginning of anything in nature or in our own lives6 ,in our experience there must be a first1 but when did manhood begin2 when did puberty1 when did old age1 begin8 ,when did each stage of our mental growth begin8 ,when or where did the ,english language begin1 or the ,french1 or the ,german8 ,was there a first ,english word spoken8 ,from the first animal sound1 if we can conceive of such1 up to the human speech of to-day1 there is an infinite gradation of sounds and words4 ,was there a first summer1 a first winter1 a first spring8 ,there could hardly have been a first day even for ages and ages1 but only slowly approximating day4 ,after an immense lapse of time the air must have cleared and the day become separated from the night1 and the seasons must have become gradually defined4 ,things slowly emerge one after another from a dim1 nebulous condition1 both in our own growth and experience and in the development of the physical universe4 ,in nature there is no first and last4 ,there is an endless beginning and an endless ending4 ,there was no first man or first woman1 no first bird1 or fish1 or reptile4 ,back of each one stretches an endless chain of approximating men and birds and reptiles4 ,this talk about the time and place where man began his existence seems to me misleading1 because it appears to convey the idea that he began as man at some time1 in some place4 ,whereas he grew4 ,he began where and when the first cell appeared1 and he has been on the road ever since4 ,there is no point in the line where he emerged from the not-man and became man4 ,he was emerging from the not-man for millions of years1 and when you put your finger on an animal form and say1 ,this is man1 you must go back through whole geologic periods before you reach the not-man4 ,if ,darwin is right1 there is no more reason for believing that the different species or forms of animal life were suddenly introduced than there is for believing that the soil1 or the minerals1 gold1 silver1 diamonds1 or vegetable mold and verdure were suddenly introduced4 ,,ii ,if we know anything of the earth's past history1 we know that the continents were long in forming1 that they passed through many vicissitudes of heat and cold1 of fire and flood1 of upheaval and subsidence--that they had1 so to speak1 their first low1 simple rudimentary or invertebrate life1 that they were all slow in getting their backbones1 slower still in clothing their rock ribs with soil and verdure1 that they passed through a sort of amphibian stage1 now under water1 now on dry land1 that their many kinds of soils and climes were not differentiated and their complex water-systems established till well into ,tertiary times--in short1 that they have passed more and more from the simple to the complex1 from the disorganized to the organized4 ,when man comes to draw his sustenance from their breasts1 may they not be said to have reached the mammalian stage8 ,the fertile plain and valley and the rounded hill are of slow growth1 immensely slow4 ,but any given stage of the earth has followed naturally from the previous stage1 only more and more and higher and higher forces took a hand in the game4 ,first its elements passed through the stage of fire1 then through the stage of water1 then merged into the stage of air4 ,more and more the aerial elements--oxygen1 carbon1 nitrogen--have entered into its constituents and fattened the soil4 ,the humanizing of the earth has been largely a process of oxidation4 ,more than disintegrated rock makes up the soil2 the air and the rains and the snows have all contributed a share4 ,the history of the soil which we turn with our spade1 and stamp with our shoes1 covers millions upon millions of years4 ,it is the ashes of the mountains1 the leavings of untold generations of animal and vegetable life4 ,it came out of the sea1 it drifted from the heavens2 it flowed out from the fiery heart of the globe2 it has been worked over and over by frost and flood1 blown by winds1 shoveled by ice1 --mixed and kneaded and moulded as the house-wife kneads and moulds her bread1--refining and refining from age to age4 ,much of it was held in solution in the primordial seas1 whence it was filtered and used and precipitated by countless forms of marine life1 making a sediment that in time became rocks1 that again in time became continents or parts of them1 which the aerial forces reduced to soil4 ,indeed1 the soil itself is an evolution1 as much so as the life upon it4 ,we probably have little conception of how intimate and cooperative all parts of the universe are with one another1--of the debt we owe to the farthest stars1 and to the remotest period of time4 ,we must owe a debt to the monsters of ,mesozoic and ,caenozoic time2 they helped to fertilize the soil for us1 and to discipline the ruder forces of life4 ,we owe a debt to all that has gone before3 to the heavens above and to the earth-fires beneath1 to the ice-sheets that ground down the mountains1 and to the ocean currents4 ,just as we owe a debt to the men and women in our line of descent1 so we owe a debt to the ruder primordial forces that shaped the planet to our use1 and took a hand in the game of animal life4 ,the gods of evolution had served a long apprenticeship2 they had gained proficiency and were master workmen4 ,or shall we say that the elements of life had become more plastic and adaptable1 or that the life fund had accumulated1 so to speak8 ,had the vast succession of living beings1 the long experience in organization1 at last made the problem of the origin of man easier to solve8 ,one fancies every living thing as not only returning its mineral elements to the soil1 but as in some subtle way leaving its vital forces also1 and thus contributing to the impalpable1 invisible store-house of vital energy of the globe4 ,at first among the mammalian tribes there was much muscle and little brains4 ,but in the middle ,tertiary the mammal brain began suddenly to enlarge1 so that in our time the brain of the horse is more than eight times the size of the brain of his progenitor1 the dinoceras of ,eocene times4 ,nature seems to have experimented with brains and nerve ganglia1 as she has with so many other things4 ,the huge reptilian creatures of ,mesozoic time--the various dinosaurs--had ridiculously small heads and brains1 but they had what might be called supplementary brains well toward the other end of the body1--great nervous masses near the sacrum1 many times the size of the ostensible brain1 which no doubt performed certain brain functions4 ,but the principle of centralization was at work1 and when in later time we reach the higher mammalian forms1 we find these outlying nervous masses called in1 so to speak1 and concentrated in the head4 ,nature has tried the big1 the gigantic1 over and over1 and then abandoned it4 ,in ,carboniferous times there was a gigantic dragon-fly1 measuring more than two feet in the expanse of wings4 ,still earlier1 there were gigantic mollusks and sea scorpions1 a cephalopod larger than a man2 then gigantic fishes and amphibians and reptiles1 followed by enormous mammals4 ,but the geologic record shows that these huge forms did not continue4 ,the mollusks that last unchanged through millions of years are the clam and the oyster of our day4 ,the huge mosses and tree-ferns are gone1 and only their humbler types remain4 ,among men giants are short-lived4 ,on the other hand1 the steady increase in size of certain other species of animals during the later geologic ages is a curious and interesting fact4 ,the first progenitors of the elephant that have been found show a small animal that steadily grew through the ages till the animal as we now find it is reached4 ,among the invertebrates this same progressive increase in size has been noted1 a small shell in the ,devonian becoming enormous in the ,triassic4 ,certain species of sharks of medium size in the lower ,eocene continue to increase till they attain the astounding dimensions in the ,miocene and ,pliocene of over one hundred feet long4 ,a certain fish appearing in the ,devonian as a small fish of seven centimetres in length1 becomes in the ,carboniferous era a creature twenty-seven centimetres in length4 ,among the mammals of ,tertiary times this same law of steady increase in size has been operative1 as seen in the ,felidae1 the stag1 and the antelope4 ,man himself has1 no doubt1 been under the same law1 and is probably a much larger animal than any of his ,tertiary ancestors4 ,in the vegetable world this process1 in many cases1 at least1 has been reversed1 and the huge treelike club-mosses and horsetails of ,carboniferous times have dwindled in our time to very insignificant herbaceous forms4 ,animals of overweening size are handicapped in many ways1 so that nature in most cases finally abandons the gigantic and sticks to the medium and the small4 ,,iii ,can we fail to see the significance of the order in which life has appeared upon the globe--the ascending series from the simple to the more and more complex8 ,can we doubt that each series is the outcome of the one below it--that there is a logical sequence from the protozoa up through the invertebrates1 the vertebrates1 to man8 ,is it not like all that we know of the method of nature8 ,could we substitute the life of one period for that of another without doing obvious violence to the logic of nature8 ,is there no fundamental reason for the gradation we behold8 ,all animal life lowest in organization is earliest in time1 and vice versa1 the different classes of a sub-kingdom1 and the different orders of a class1 succeeding one another1 as ,cope says1 in the relative order of their zoological rank4 ,thus the sponges are later than the protozoa1 the corals succeed the sponges1 the sea-urchins come after the corals1 the shell-fish follow the sea-urchins1 the articulates are later than the shell-fish1 the vertebrates are later than the articulates4 ,among the former1 the amphibian follows the fish1 the reptile follows the amphibian1 the mammal follows the reptile1 and non-placental mammals are followed by the placental4 ,it almost seems as if nature hesitated whether to produce the mammal from the reptile or from the amphibian1 as the mammal bears marks of both in its anatomy1 and which was the parent stem is still a question4 ,the heart started as a simple tube in the ,leptocardii2 it divides itself into two cavities in the fishes1 into three in the reptiles1 and into four in the birds and mammals4 ,so the ossification of the vertebral column takes place progressively1 from the ,silurian to the middle ,jurassic4 ,the same ascending series of creation as a whole is repeated in the inception and development of every one of the higher animals to-day4 ,each one begins as a single cell1 which soon becomes a congeries of cells1 which is followed by congeries of congeries of cells1 till the highly complex structure of the grown animal with all its intricate physiological activities and specialization of parts1 is reached4 ,it is typical of the course of the creative energy from the first unicellular life up to man1 each succeeding stage flowing out of1 and necessitated by1 the preceding stage4 ,how slowly and surely the circulatory system improved6 ,from the cold-blooded animal to the warm-blooded is a great advance4 ,in the warm-blooded is developed the capacity to maintain a fixed temperature while that of the surrounding medium changes4 ,the brain and nervous system display the same progressive ascent from the brainless acrania1 up through the fishes1 batrachia1 reptiles1 and birds to the top in mammals4 ,the same with the skeletons in the invertebrates1 from membrane to cartilage1 from cartilage to bone1 so that the primitive cartilage remaining in any part of the skeleton is considered a mark of inferiority4 ,according to ,cope1 there has been progressive improvement in the mechanism of the body--it has become a better and better machine4 ,the suspension of the lower jaw1 so as to bring the teeth nearer the power1--the masseter and related muscles1--was a slow evolution and a great advance4 ,the fin is more primitive than the limb2 the limbs themselves display a constantly increasing differentiation of parts from the batrachian to the mammalian4 ,there was no good ankle joint in early ,eocene times4 ,the model ankle joint is a tongue and groove arrangement1 and this is a later evolution4 ,in ,eocene times they were nearly all flat4 ,the arched foot1 too1 comes in2 this is an advance on the flat foot4 ,the bones of the palms and soles are not locked until the later ,tertiary4 ,the vertebral column progressed in the same way1 from flat to the double curve and the interlocking process1 thus securing greatest strength with greatest mobility4 ,in the earliest life locomotion was diffused1 later it became concentrated4 ,the worm walks with its whole body4 ,,iv ,if we figure to ourselves the geologic history of the earth under the symbol of a year of three hundred and sixty-five days1 each day a million years1 which is probably not far out of the way1 then man1 the biped1 the ,homo sapiens1 in relation to this immense past1 is of to-day1 or of this very morning2 while the origin of the first vertebrates1 the fishes1 from which he has arisen1 falls nearer the middle of the great year4 ,or1 dividing this geologic year into four divisions or seasons1 primary1 secondary1 tertiary1 and quaternary1 the fishes fall in the primary1 the reptiles in the secondary1 the mammals in the tertiary1 and man in the early quaternary4 ,if the fluid earth hardened1 and the seas were formed in the first month of this year1 then probably the first beginning of life appeared in the second month1 the invertebrate in the third or fourth1--,march or ,april1--the vertebrates in ,may or ,june1 the amphibians in ,july or ,august1 the reptiles in ,august or ,september1 the mammals in ,october or ,november1 and man in ,december1--separated from the first beginnings of life by all those millions upon millions of years4 ,if life is a ferment1 as we are told it is1 how long it took this yeast to leaven the whole loaf6 ,man is evidently the end of the series1 he is the top of the biological tree4 ,his specialization upon physical lines seems to have ended far back in geologic time2 his future specialization and development is evidently to be upon mental and spiritual lines4 ,nature1 as ,i have said1 began to tend more and more to brains in the early ,tertiary1--the autumn of the great year2 her best harvest began to mature then1 her grain began to ripen4 ,indeed1 this increased cephalization of animal life in the fall of the great year does suggest a kind of ripening process1 the turning of the sap and milk1 which had been so abundant and so riotous in the earlier period1 into fibre and fruit and seed4 ,may it not be that that long and sultry spring and summer of the earth's early history1 a time probably longer than has since elapsed1 played a part in the development of life analogous to that played by our spring and summer1 making it opulent1 varied1 gigantic1 and making possible the condensation and refinement that came with man in the recent period8 ,the earth is a pretty big apple1 and the solar tree upon which it hangs is a pretty big tree1 but why may it not have gone through a kind of ripening process for all that8 its elements becoming less crude and acrid1 and better suited to sustain the higher forms1 as the eons passed8 ,at any rate1 the results seem to justify such a fancy4 ,the earth has slowly undergone a change that may fairly be called a ripening process2 its soil has deepened and mellowed1 its harsher features have softened1 more and more color has come to its surface1 the flowers have bloomed1 the more succulent fruits have developed1 the air has cleared1 and love and benevolence and altruism have been born in the world4 ,v ,life had to creep or swim long before it could walk1 and it walked long before it could fly2 it had feeling long before it had eyes1 and it no doubt had eyes long before it could hear or smell4 ,it was capable of motion long before it had limbs2 it assimilated food long before it had a mouth or a stomach4 ,it had a digestive tract long before it had a spinal cord2 it had nerve ganglia long before it had a well-defined brain4 ,it had sensation long before it had perception2 it was unisexual long before it was bisexual2 it had a shell long before it had a skeleton2 it had instinct and reflex action long before it had self-consciousness and reason4 ,always from the lower to the higher1 from the simple to the more complex1 and always slowly1 gently4 ,life has had its foetal stage1 its stage of infancy1 and childhood1 and maturity1 and will doubtless have its old age4 ,it took it millions upon millions of years to get out of the sea upon dry land2 and it took it more millions upon dry land1 or since the ,carboniferous age1 when the air probably first began to be breathable1--all the vast stretch of the ,secondary and ,tertiary ages1--to get upright and develop a reasoning brain1 and reach the estate of man4 ,step by step1 in orderly succession1 does creation move4 ,in the rising and in the setting of the sun one may see how nature's great processes steal upon us1 silently and unnoticed1 yet always in sequence1 stage succeeding stage1 one thing following from another1 the spectacular moment of sunset following inevitably from the quiet1 unnoticed sinking of the sun in the west1 or the startling flash of his rim above the eastern horizon only the fulfillment of the promise of the dawn4 ,all is development and succession1 and man is but the sunrise of the dawn of life in ,cambrian or ,silurian times1 and is linked to that time as one hour of the day is linked to another4 ,the more complex life became1 the more rapidly it seems to have developed1 till it finally makes rapid strides to reach man4 ,one seems to see ,life1 like a traveler on the road1 going faster and faster as it nears its goal4 ,those long ages of unicellular life in the old seas1 how immense they appear to have been2 then how the age of invertebrates dragged on1 millions upon millions of years2 then the age of fishes2 the ,palaeozoic age1 how vast--put by ,haeckel at thirty-four millions of years1 adding rock strata forty-one thousand feet thick2 then the ,mesozoic or third period1 the age of reptiles1 eleven million years1 with strata twelve thousand feet thick4 ,then came the ,caenozoic age1 or age of mammals1 three million years1 with strata thirty-one hundred feet thick4 ,the god of life was getting in a hurry now2 man was not far off4 ,a new device1 the placenta1 was hit upon in this age1 and probably the diaphragm and the brain of animals1 all greatly enlarged4 ,finally comes the ,anthropozoic or ,quaternary age1 the age of man1 three hundred thousand years1 with not much addition to the sedimentary rocks4 ,man seems to be the net result of it all1 of all these vast cycles of ,palaeozoic1 ,mesozoic1 and ,caenozoic life4 ,he is the one drop finally distilled from the vast weltering sea of lower organic forms4 ,it looks as if it all had to be before he could be--all the delay and waste and struggle and pain--all that long carnival of sea life1 all that saturnalia of gigantic forms upon the land and in the air1 all that rising and sinking of the continents1 and all that shoveling to and fro and mixing of the soils1 before the world was ready for him4 ,in the early ,tertiary1 millions of years ago1 the earth seems to have been ripe for man4 ,the fruits and vegetables and the forest trees were much as we know them1 the animals that have been most serviceable to us were here1 spring and summer and fall and winter came and went1 evidently birds sang1 insects hummed1 flowers bloomed1 fruits and grains and nuts ripened1 and yet man as man was not4 ,under the city of ,london is a vast deposit of clay in which thousands of specimens of fossil fruit have been found like our date1 cocoanut1 areca1 custard-apple1 gourd1 melon1 coffee1 bean1 pepper1 and cotton plant1 but no sign of man4 ,why was his development so tardy8 ,what animal profited by this rich vegetable life8 ,the hope and promise of the human species at that time probably slept in some lowly marsupial4 ,man has gathered up into himself1 as he traveled his devious way1 all the best powers of the animal kingdom he has passed through4 ,his brain supplies him with all that his body lacks1 and more4 ,his specialization is in this highly developed organ4 ,it is this that separates him so widely from all other animals4 ,man has no wings1 and yet he can soar above the clouds2 he is not swift of foot1 and yet he can out-speed the fleetest hound or horse2 he has but feeble weapons in his organization1 and yet he can slay or master all the great beasts2 his eye is not so sharp as that of the eagle or the vulture1 and yet he can see into the farthest depths of siderial space2 he has only very feeble occult powers of communication with his fellows1 and yet he can talk around the world and send his voice across mountains and deserts2 his hands are weak things beside a lion's paw or an elephant's trunk1 and yet he can move mountains and stay rivers and set bounds to the wildest seas4 ,his dog can out-smell him and out-run him and out-bite him1 and yet his dog looks up to him as to a god4 ,he has erring reason in place of unerring instinct1 and yet he has changed the face of the planet4 ,without the specialization of the lower animals1--their wonderful adaptation to particular ends1--their tools1 their weapons1 their strength1 their speed1 man yet makes them all his servants4 ,his brain is more than a match for all the special advantages nature has given them4 ,the one gift of reason makes him supreme in the world4 ,,vi ,we have a stake in all the past life of the globe4 ,it is no doubt a scientific fact that your existence and mine were involved in the first cell that appeared1 that the first zoophyte furthered our fortunes1 that the first worm gave us a lift4 ,great good luck came to us when the first pair of eyes were invented1 probably by the trilobite back in ,silurian times2 when the first ear appeared1 probably in ,carboniferous times2 when the first pair of lungs grew out of a fish's air-bladder1 probably in ,triassic times2 when the first four-chambered heart was developed and double circulation established1 probably with the first warm-blooded animal in ,mesozoic times4 ,these humble forms started the brain1 the nervous system1 the circulation1 sight1 hearing1 smell2 they invented the liver1 the kidneys1 the lungs1 the heart1 the stomach1 and led the way to every organ and power my body and mind have to-day4 ,they were the pioneers1 they were the dim remote forebears1 they conserved and augmented the fund of life and passed it along4 ,all their struggles1 their discipline1 their battles1 their failures1 their successes1 were for you and me4 ,man has had the experience of all the animals below him4 ,he has suffered and struggled as a fish1 he has groveled and devoured as a reptile1 he has fought and triumphed as a quadruped1 he has lived in trees as a monkey1 he has inhabited caves with the wolf and the bear1 he has roamed the forests and plains as a savage1 he has survived without fire or clothes or weapons or tools1 he has lived with the mastodon and all the saurian monsters1 he has held his own against great odds1 he has survived the long battles of the land and the sea1 he weathered the ice-sheet that overrode both hemispheres1 he has seen many forms become extinct4 ,in the historic period he has survived plague and pestilence1 and want and famine4 ,what must he have survived in prehistoric times6 ,what must he have had to contend with as a cave-dweller1 as a tree-dweller1 as a river-drift man6 ,before he had tools or weapons what must he have had to contend with6 ,nature was full of sap and rioted in rude strength well up to ,quaternary times1 producing extravagant forms which apparently she had no use for1 as she has discontinued them4 ,in all these things you and ,i had our part and lot2 of this prodigal outpouring of life we have reaped the benefit2 amid these bizarre forms and this carnival of lust and power1 the manward impulse was nourished and forwarded4 ,in ,eocene times nearly half the mammals lived on other animals2 it must have been an age of great slaughter4 ,it favored the development of fleetness and cunning1 in which we too have an interest4 ,our rude progenitor was surely there in some form1 and escaped the slaughter4 ,then or later it is thought he took to the trees to escape his enemies1 as the rats in ,jamaica have taken to the trees to escape the mongoose4 ,to his tree-climbing we probably owe our hand1 with its opposing thumb4 ,in all his disguises he is still our ancestor4 ,his story reads like a fairy book4 ,never did nimble fancy of childhood invent such transformations--only the transformations are so infinitely slow1 and attended with such struggle and suffering4 ,strike out the element of time and we have before us a spectacle more novel and startling than any hocus-pocus or legerdemain that ever set the crowd agape4 ,in every form man has passed through1 he left behind some old member or power and took on some new4 ,he left his air-bladder and his gills and his fins with the fishes2 he got his lungs from the dipnoans1 the precursors of the amphibians1 and from these last he got his four limbs2 he left some part of his anatomy with the reptile1 and took something in exchange1 probably his flexible neck4 ,somewhere along his line he picked up the four-chambered heart1 the warm blood1 the placenta1 the diaphragm1 the plantigrade foot1 the mammary glands--indeed1 what has he not picked up on the long road of his many transformations8 ,he left some of his superfluous forty-four teeth with his ancestral quadrumana of ,eocene times1 and kept thirty-two4 ,he picked up his brain somewhere on the road1 probably far back in ,palaeozoic times1 but how has he developed and enlarged it1 till it is now the one supreme thing in the world6 ,his fear1 his cunning1 his anger1 his treachery1 his hoggishness--all his animal passions--he brought with him from his animal ancestors2 but his moral and spiritual nature1 his altruism1 his veneration1 his religious emotions1 his aesthetic perceptions--have come to him as a man1 supplementing his lower nature1 as it were1 with another order of senses--a finer sight1 a finer touch1 wrought in him by the discipline of life1 and the wonder of the world about him1 beginning de novo in him only as the wing began de novo in the bird1 or the color began de novo in the flower--struck out from preexisting potentialities4 ,the father of the eye is the light1 and the father of the ear is the vibration of the air1 but the father of man's higher nature is a question of quite another sort4 ,about the only thing in his physical make-up that man can call his own is his chin4 ,none of the orders below him seem to have what can strictly be called a chin4 ,man owes his five toes and five fingers to the early amphibians of the sub-carboniferous times4 ,the first tangible evidence of these five toes upon the earth is1 to me1 very interesting4 ,the earliest record of them that ,i have heard of is furnished by a slab of shale from ,pennsylvania1 upon which1 while it was yet soft mud1 our first five-toed ancestor had left the imprint of his four feet4 ,he was evidently a small1 short-legged gentleman with a stride of only about thirteen inches1 and he carried a tail instead of a cane4 ,he was probably taking a stroll upon the shores of that vast ,mediterranean ,sea that occupied all the interior of the continent when he crossed his mud flat4 ,it was raining that morning--how many million years ago8--as we know from the imprint of the raindrops upon the mud4 ,probably the shower did not cause him to quicken his pace1 as amphibians rather like the rain4 ,just what his immediate forbears were like1 or what the forms were that connected him with the fishes1 we shall probably never know4 ,doubtless the great book of the rocky strata somewhere holds the secret1 if we are ever lucky enough to open it at the right place4 ,how many other secrets1 that evolutionists would like to know1 those torn and crumpled leaves hold6 ,it is something to me to know that it rained that day when our amphibian ancestor ventured out4 ,the weather was beginning to get organized also1 and settling down to business4 ,it had got beyond the state of perpetual mist and fog of the earlier ages1 and the raindrops were playing their parts4 ,yet1 from all the evidence we have1 we infer that the climate was warm and very humid1 like that of a greenhouse1 and that vegetation1 mostly giant ferns and rushes and lycopods1 was very rank1 but there was no grass1 or moss1 no deciduous trees1 or flowers1 or fruit1 as we know these things4 ,a ,german anatomist says that we have the vestiges of one hundred and eighty organs which have stuck to us from our animal ancestors1--now useless1 or often worse than useless1 like the vermiform appendix4 ,eleven of these superannuated and obsolete organs we bring from the fishes1 four from amphibians and reptiles4 ,the external ear is a vestige--of no use any more4 ,our dread of snakes we no doubt inherited from our simian ancestors4 ,how life refined and humanized as time went on1 sobered down and became more meditative1 keeping step1 no doubt1 with the amelioration of the soil out of which all life finally comes4 ,life's bank account in the soil was constantly increasing2 more and more of the inorganic was wrought up into the organic2 the value of every clod underfoot was raised4 ,the riot of gigantic forms ceased1 and they became ashes4 ,the giant and uncouth vegetation ceased1 and left ashes or coal4 ,the beech1 the maple1 the oak1 the olive1 the palm came in4 ,the giant sea serpents disappeared2 the horse1 the ox1 the swine1 the dog1 the quail1 the dove came in4 ,the placental mammals developed4 ,the horse grew in size and beauty4 ,when we first come upon his trail1 he is a four-hoof-toed animal no larger than a fox4 ,later on we find him the size of a sheep with one of his toes gone2 still later--many hundred thousand years1 no doubt--we find him the size of a donkey1 with still fewer toes1 and so on till we reach the superb creature we know4 ,the creative energy seems to have worked in geologic time and in the geologic field just as it works here and now1 in yonder vineyard or in yonder marsh1--blindly1 experimentally1 but persistently and successfully4 ,the winged seeds find their proper soil1 because they search in every direction2 the climbing vines find their support1 because in the same blind way they feel in all directions4 ,plants and animals and races of men grope their way to new fields1 to new powers1 to new inventions4 ,indeed1 how like an inventor ,nature has worked1 constantly improving her models1 adding to and changing as experience would seem to dictate6 ,she has developed her higher and more complex forms as man has developed his printing-press1 or steam-engine1 from rude1 simple beginnings4 ,from the two-chambered heart of the fish she made the treble-chambered heart of the frog1 and then the four- chambered heart of the mammal4 ,the first mammary gland had no nipples2 the milk oozed out and was licked off by the young4 ,the nipple was a great improvement1 as was the power of suckling in the young4 ,experimenting and experimenting endlessly1 taking a forward step only when compelled by necessity1--this is the way of ,nature1--experimenting with eyes1 with ears1 with teeth1 with limbs1 with feet1 with toes1 with wings1 with bladders and lungs1 with scales and armors1 hitting upon the backbone only after long trials with other forms1 hitting upon the movable eye only after long ages of other eyes1 hitting on the mammal only after long ages of egg-laying vertebrates1 hitting on the placenta only recently1--experimenting all around the circle1 discarding and inventing1 taking ages to perfect the nervous system1 ages and ages to develop the centralized ganglia1 the brain4 ,first life was like a rabble1 a mob1 without thought or head1 then slowly organization went on1 as it were1 from family to clan1 from clan to tribe1 from tribe to nation1 or centralized government--the brain of man--all parts duly subordinated and directed1--millions of cells organized and working on different functions to one grand end1--cooperation1 fraternization1 division of labor1 altruism1 etc4 ,the cell was the first invention2 it is the unit of life1--a speck of protoplasm with a nucleus4 ,to educate this cell till it could combine with its fellows and form the higher animals seems to have been the aim of the creative energy4 ,first the cell1 then combinations of cells1 then combinations of combinations1 then more and more complex combinations till the body of man is reached1 where endless confraternities of cells1 all with different functions1 working to build and sustain different organs1--brain1 heart1 liver1 muscles1 nerves1--yet all working together for one grand end--the body and mind of man4 ,in their last analysis1 all made up of the same cells--their combinations and organization making the different forms4 ,evolution touches all forms but tarries with few4 ,many are called but few are chosen--chosen to lead the man-impulse upward4 ,myriads of forms are left behind1 like driftwood caught in the eddies of a current4 ,the clam has always remained a clam1 the oyster remained an oyster4 ,the cockroach is about the same creature to-day that it was untold aeons ago2 so is the shark1 and so are many other forms of marine life4 ,often where old species have gone out and new come in1 no progress has been made4 ,evolution concentrates along certain lines4 ,the biological tree behaves like another tree1 branches die and drop off 7species become extinct71 others mature and remain1 while some central shoot pushes upward4 ,many of the huge reptilian and mammalian branches perished in comparatively late times4 ,as nothing is more evident than that the same measure of life or of vital energy--power of growth1 power of resistance1 power of reproduction--is not meted out equally to all the individuals of a species1 or to all species1 so it is evident that this power of progressive development is not meted out equally to all races of mankind1 or to all of the individuals of the same race4 ,the central impulse of development seems to have come from the ,east1 in historic times at least1 and to have followed the line of the ,mediterranean1 to have culminated in ,europe4 ,and this progress has certainly been the work of a few minds--minds exceptionally endowed4 ,for the most part the barbarian races do not progress4 ,their exceptional minds or characters do not lead the tribes to higher planes of thought1 ,in all countries we still see these barbarous people which man in his progress has left behind4 ,our civilization is like a field of light that fades off into shadows and darkness4 ,there is this margin of undeveloped humanity on all sides4 ,always has it been so in the animal life of the globe2 the higher forms have been pushed up from the lower1 and the lower have remained and continued to multiply unchanged4 ,it seems as if some central and cherished impulse had pushed on through each form1 and by successive steps had climbed from height to height1 gaining a little here and a little there1 intensifying and concentrating as time went on1 very vague and diffuse at first1 embryonic so to speak1 during the first half of the great geologic year1 but quickening more and more1 differentiating more and more1 delayed and defeated many times1 no doubt1 yet never destroyed1 leaving form after form unchanged behind it1 till it at last reached its goal in man4 ,after evolution has done all it can do for us toward solving the mystery of creation1 much remains unsolved4 ,through evolution we see creation in travail-pains for millions of years to bring forth the varied forms of life as we know them2 but the mystery of the inception of this life1 and of the origin of the laws that have governed its development1 remains4 ,what lies back of it all8 ,who or what planted the germ of the biological tree1 and predetermined all its branches8 ,what determined one branch to eventuate in man1 another in the dog1 the horse1 the bird1 or the reptile8 ,from the finite or human point of view we feel compelled to say some vaster being or intelligence must have had the thought of all these things from the beginning or before the beginning4 ,it is quite impossible for me to believe that fortuitous variation--variation all around the circle--could have resulted in the evolution of man4 ,there must have been a predetermined tendency to variation in certain directions4 ,to introduce chance into the world is to introduce chaos4 ,no more would the waters of the interiors of the continents find their way to the sea1 were there not a slant in that direction1 than could haphazard variation1 though checked and controlled by natural selection1 result in the production of the race of man4 ,this view may be only the outcome of our inevitable anthropomorphism which we cannot escape from1 no matter how deep we dive or high we soar4 ,,ii ,,the ,,divine ,,abyss ,i ,in making the journey to the great ,southwest1--,colorado1 ,new ,mexico1 and ,arizona1--if one does not know his geology1 he is pretty sure to wish he did1 there is so much geology scattered over all these ,southwestern landscapes1 crying aloud to be read4 ,the book of earthly revelation1 as shown by the great science1 lies wide open in that land1 as it does in few other places on the globe4 ,its leaves fairly flutter in the wind1 and the print is so large that he who runs on the ,california ,limited may read it4 ,not being able to read it at all1 or not taking any interest in it1 is like going to ,rome or ,egypt or ,jerusalem1 knowing nothing of the history of those lands4 ,of course1 we have just as much geology in the ,east and ,middle ,west1 but the books are closed and sealed1 as it were1 by the enormous lapse of time since these portions of the continent became dry land4 ,the eroding and degrading forces have ages since passed the meridian of their day's work1 and grass and verdure hide their footsteps4 ,but in the great ,west and ,southwest1 the gods of erosion and degradation seem yet in the heat and burden of the day's toil4 ,their unfinished landscapes meet the eye on every hand4 ,many of the mountains look as if they were blocked out but yesterday1 and one sees vast naked flood-plains1 and painted deserts and bad lands and dry lake-bottoms1 that suggest a world yet in the making4 ,some force has scalped the hills1 ground the mountains1 strangled the rivers1 channeled the plains1 laid bare the succession of geologic ages1 stripping off formation after formation like a garment1 or cutting away the strata over hundreds of square miles1 as we pry a slab from a rock--and has done it all but yesterday4 ,if we break the slab in the prying1 and thus secure only part of it1 leaving an abrupt jagged edge on the part that remains1 we have still a better likeness of the work of these great geologic quarrymen4 ,but other workmen1 invisible to our eyes1 have carved these jagged edges into novel and beautiful forms4 ,the ,east is old1 old6 the ,west1 with the exception of the ,rocky ,mountains1 is of yesterday in comparison4 ,the ,hudson was an ancient river before the ,mississippi was born1 and the ,catskills were being slowly carved from a vast plateau while the rocks that were to form many of the ,western ranges were being laid down as sediment in the bottom of the sea4 ,california is yet in her teens1 while ,new ,england in comparison is an octogenarian4 ,just as much geology in the ,east as in the ,west1 did ,i say8 ,not as much visible geology1 not as much by many chapters of earth history1 not as much by all the later formations1 by most of the ,mesozoic and ,tertiary deposits4 ,the vast series of sedimentary rocks since the ,carboniferous age1 to say nothing of the volcanic1 that make up these periods1 are largely wanting east of the ,mississippi1 except in ,new ,jersey and in some of the ,gulf ,states4 ,they are recent4 ,they are like the history of our own period compared with that of ,egypt and ,judea4 ,it is mainly these later formations--the ,permian1 the ,jurassic1 the ,triassic1 the ,cretaceous1 the ,eocene1--that give the prevailing features to the ,south-western landscape that so astonish ,eastern eyes4 ,from them come most of the petrified remains of that great army of extinct reptiles and mammals--the three-toed horse1 the sabre-toothed tiger1 the brontosaurus1 the fin-backed lizard1 the imperial mammoth1 the various dinosaurs1 some of them gigantic in form and fearful in aspect--that of late years have appeared in our museums and that throw so much light upon the history of the animal life of the globe4 ,most of the sedimentary rocks of ,new ,york and ,new ,england were laid down before these creatures existed4 ,now ,i am not going to write an essay on the geology of the ,west1 for ,i really have little first-hand knowledge upon that subject1 but ,i would indicate the kind of interest in the country ,i was most conscious of during my recent trip to the ,pacific ,coast and beyond4 ,indeed1 quite a geologic fever raged in me most of the time4 ,the rocks attracted me more than the birds1 the sculpturing of the landscapes engaged my attention more than the improvements of the farms--what ,nature had done more than what man was doing4 ,the purely scenic aspects of the country are certainly remarkable1 and the human aspects interesting1 but underneath these things1 and striking through them1 lies a vast world of time and change that to me is still more remarkable1 and still more interesting4 ,i could not look out of the car windows without seeing the spectre of geologic time stalking across the hills and plains4 ,as one leaves the prairie ,states and nears the great ,southwest1 he finds ,nature in a new mood--she is dreaming of canyons2 both cliffs and soil have canyon stamped upon them1 so that your eye1 if alert1 is slowly prepared for the wonders of rock-carving it is to see on the ,colorado4 ,the canyon form seems inherent in soil and rock4 ,the channels of the little streams are canyons1 vertical sides of adobe soil1 as deep as they are broad1 rectangle grooves in the ground4 ,through all this arid region nature is abrupt1 angular1 and sudden--the plain squarely abutting the cliff1 the cliff walling the canon2 the dry water-course sunk in the plain like a carpenter's groove into a plank4 ,cloud and sky look the same as at home1 but the earth is a new earth--new geologically1 and new in the lines of its landscapes4 ,it seems by the forms she develops that ,nature must use tools that she long since discarded in the ,east4 ,she works as if with the square and the saw and the compass1 and uses implements that cut like chisels and moulding-planes4 ,right lines1 well-defined angles1 and tablelike tops of buttes and mesas alternate with perfect curves1 polished domes1 carved needles1 and fluted escarpments4 ,in the features of our older landscapes there is little or nothing that suggests architectural forms or engineering devices2 in the ,far ,west one sees such forms and devices everywhere4 ,in visiting the ,petrified ,forests in northern ,arizona we stood on the edge of a great rolling plain and looked down upon a wide1 deeply eroded stretch of country below us that suggested a vast army encampment1 covered as it was with great dome-shaped1 tent-like mounds of a light terra-cotta color1 with open spaces like streets or avenues between them4 ,there were hundreds or thousands of these earthy tents stretching away for twenty-five miles4 ,along the horizon was a gigantic stockade of red1 rounded pillars1 or a solid line of mosque-like temples4 ,how unreal1 how spectral it all seemed6 ,not a sound or sign of life in the whole painted solitude--a deserted camp1 or one upon which the silence of death had fallen4 ,here1 in ,carboniferous times1 grew the gigantic fern-like trees1 the ,sigillaria and ,lepidodendron1 whose petrified trunks1 for aeons buried beneath the deposit of the ,permian seas1 and then1 during other aeons1 slowly uncovered by the gentle action of the eroding rains1 we saw scattered on the ground4 ,you first see ,nature beginning to form the canon habit in ,colorado and making preliminary studies for her masterpiece1 the ,grand ,canon4 ,huge square towers and truncated cones and needles and spires break the horizon-lines4 ,here all her water-courses1 wet or dry1 are deep grooves in the soil1 with striking and pretty carvings and modelings adorning their vertical sides4 ,in the railway cuts you see the same effects--miniature domes and turrets and other canon features carved out by the rains4 ,the soil is massive and does not crumble like ours and seek the angle of repose2 it gives way in masses like a brick wall4 ,it is architectural soil1 it seeks approximately the right angle--the level plain or the vertical wall4 ,it erodes easily under running water1 but it does not slide2 sand and clay are in such proportions as to make a brittle but not a friable soil4 ,before you are out of ,colorado1 you begin to see these novel architectural features on the horizon-line--the canon turned bottom side up1 as it were4 ,in ,new ,mexico1 the canon habit of the erosion forces is still more pronounced4 ,the mountain-lines are often as architectural in the distance1 or arbitrary1 as the sky-line of a city4 ,you may see what you half persuade yourself is a huge brick building notching the horizon1--an asylum1 a seminary1 a hotel1--but it is only a fragment of red sandstone1 carved out by wind and rain4 ,presently the high colors of the rocks appear--high cliffs with terra-cotta facades1 and a new look in the texture of the rocks1 a soft1 beaming1 less frowning expression1 and colored as if by the ,western sunsets4 ,we are looking upon much younger rocks geologically than we see at home1 and they have the tints and texture of youth4 ,the landscape and the mountains look young1 because they look unfinished1 like a house half up4 ,the workmen have but just knocked off work to go to dinner2 their great trenches1 their freshly opened quarries1 their huge dumps1 their foundations1 their cyclopean masonry1 their half-finished structures breaking the horizon-lines1 their square gashes through the mountains1--all impress the eyes of a traveler from the eastern part of the continent1 where the earth-building and earth-carving forces finished their work ages ago4 ,,ii ,hence it is that when one reaches the ,grand canon of the ,colorado1 if he has kept his eyes and mind open1 he is prepared to see striking and unusual things4 ,but he cannot be fully prepared for just what he does see1 no matter how many pictures of it he may have seen1 or how many descriptions of it he may have read4 ,a friend of mine who took a lively interest in my ,western trip wrote me that he wished he could have been present with his kodak when we first looked upon the ,grand ,canon4 ,did he think he could have got a picture of our souls8 ,his camera would have shown him only our silent1 motionless forms as we stood transfixed by that first view of the stupendous spectacle4 ,words do not come readily to one's lips1 or gestures to one's body1 in the presence of such a scene4 ,one of my companions said that the first thing that came into her mind was the old text1 ,be still1 and know that ,i am ,god4 ,to be still on such an occasion is the easiest thing in the world1 and to feel the surge of solemn and reverential emotions is equally easy2 is1 indeed1 almost inevitable4 ,the immensity of the scene1 its tranquillity1 its order1 its strange1 new beauty1 and the monumental character of its many forms--all these tend to beget in the beholder an attitude of silent wonder and solemn admiration4 ,i wished at the moment that we might have been alone with the glorious spectacle1--that we had hit upon an hour when the public had gone to dinner4 ,the smoking and joking tourists sauntering along in apparent indifference1 or sitting with their backs to the great geologic drama1 annoyed me4 ,i pity the person who can gaze upon the spectacle unmoved4 ,some are actually terrified by it4 ,i was told of a strong man1 an eminent lawyer from a ,western city1 who literally fell to the earth at the first view1 and could not again be induced to look upon it4 ,i saw a woman prone upon the ground near the brink at ,hopi ,point1 weeping silently and long2 but from what she afterward told me ,i know it was not from terror or sorrow1 but from the overpowering gladness of the ineffable beauty and harmony of the scene4 ,it moved her like the grandest music4 ,her inebriate soul could find relief only in tears4 ,harriet ,monroe was so wrought up by the first view that she says she had to fight against the desperate temptation to fling herself down into the soft abyss1 and thus redeem the affront which the very beating of her heart had offered to the inviolable solitude4 ,charles ,dudley ,warner said of it1 ,i experienced for a moment an indescribable terror of nature1 a confusion of mind1 a fear to be alone in such a presence4 ,it is beautiful1 oh1 how beautiful6 but it is a beauty that awakens a feeling of solemnity and awe4 ,we call it the ,divine ,abyss4 ,it seems as much of heaven as of earth4 ,of the many descriptions of it1 none seems adequate4 ,to rave over it1 or to pour into it a torrent of superlatives1 is of little avail4 ,my companion came nearer the mark when she quietly repeated from ,revelation1 ,and he carried me away in the spirit to a great and high mountain1 and shewed me that great city1 the holy ,jerusalem4 ,it does1 indeed1 suggest a far-off1 half-sacred antiquity1 some greater ,jerusalem1 ,egypt1 ,babylon1 or ,india4 ,we speak of it as a scene3 it is more like a vision1 so foreign is it to all other terrestrial spectacles1 and so surpassingly beautiful4 ,to ordinary folk the sight is so extraordinary1 so unlike everything one's experience has yielded1 and so unlike the results of the usual haphazard working of the blind forces of nature1 that ,i did not wonder when people whom ,i met on the rim asked me what ,i supposed did all this4 ,i could even sympathize with the remark of an old woman visitor who is reported to have said that she thought they had built the canon too near the hotel4 ,the enormous cleavage which the canon shows1 the abrupt drop from the brink of thousands of feet1 the sheer faces of perpendicular walls of dizzy height1 give at first the impression that it is all the work of some titanic quarryman1 who must have removed cubic miles of strata as we remove cubic yards of earth4 ,go out to ,hopi ,point or ,o',neil's ,point1 and1 as you emerge from the woods1 you get a glimpse of a blue or rose-purple gulf opening before you4 ,the solid ground ceases suddenly1 and an aerial perspective1 vast and alluring1 takes its place2 another heaven1 countersunk in the earth1 transfixes you on the brink4 ,great ,god6 ,i can fancy the first beholder of it saying1 what is this8 ,do ,i behold the transfiguration of the earth8 ,has the solid ground melted into thin air8 ,is there a firmament below as well as above8 ,has the earth veil at last been torn aside1 and the red heart of the globe been laid bare8 ,if this first witness was not at once overcome by the beauty of the earthly revelation before him1 or terrified by its strangeness and power1 he must have stood long1 awed1 spellbound1 speechless with astonishment1 and thrilled with delight4 ,he may have seen vast and glorious prospects from mountaintops1 he may have looked down upon the earth and seen it unroll like a map before him2 but he had never before looked into the earth as through a mighty window or open door1 and beheld depths and gulfs of space1 with their atmospheric veils and illusions and vast perspectives1 such as he had seen from mountain-summits1 but with a wealth of color and a suggestion of architectural and monumental remains1 and a strange1 almost unearthly beauty1 such as no mountain-view could ever have afforded him4 ,three features of the canon strike one at once3 its unparalleled magnitude1 its architectural forms and suggestions1 and its opulence of color effects--a chasm nearly a mile deep and from ten to twenty miles wide1 in which ,niagara would be only as a picture upon your walls1 in which the ,pyramids1 seen from the rim1 would appear only like large tents1 in which the largest building upon the earth would dwindle to insignificant proportions4 ,there are amphitheatres and mighty aisles eight miles long and three or four miles wide and three or four thousand feet deep4 ,there are room-like spaces eight hundred feet high2 there are well-defined alcoves with openings a mile wide2 there are niches six hundred feet high overhung by arched lintels2 there are pinnacles and rude statues from one hundred to two hundred feet high4 ,here ,i am running at once into allusions to the architectural features and suggestions of the canon1 which must play a prominent part in all faithful attempts to describe it4 ,there are huge1 truncated towers1 vast1 horizontal mouldings2 there is the semblance of balustrades on the summit of a noble facade4 ,in one of the immense halls we saw1 on an elevated platform1 the outlines of three enormous chairs1 fifty feet or more high1 and behind and above them the suggestion of three more chairs in partial ruin4 ,indeed1 there is such an opulence of architectural forms in this divine abyss as one has never before dreamed of seeing wrought by the blind forces of nature4 ,these forces have here foreshadowed all the noblest architecture of the world4 ,many of the vast carved and ornamental masses which diversify the canon have been fitly named temples1 as ,shiva's ,temple1 a mile high1 carved out of the red ,carboniferous limestone1 and remarkably symmetrical in its outlines4 ,near it is the ,temple of ,isis1 the ,temple of ,osiris1 the ,buddha ,temple1 the ,horus ,temple1 and the ,pyramid of ,cheops4 ,farther to the east is the ,diva ,temple1 the ,brahma ,temple1 the ,temple of ,zoroaster1 and the ,tomb of ,odin4 ,indeed1 everywhere are there suggestions of temples and tombs1 pagodas and pyramids1 on a scale that no work of human hands can rival4 ,the grandest objects1 says ,major ,dutton1 are merged in a congregation of others equally grand4 ,with the wealth of form goes a wealth of color4 ,never1 ,i venture to say1 were reds and browns and grays and vermilions more appealing to the eye than they are as they softly glow in this great canyon4 ,the color-scheme runs from the dark1 sombre hue of the gneiss at the bottom1 up through the yellowish brown of the ,cambrian layers1 and on up through seven or eight broad bands of varying tints of red and vermilion1 to the broad yellowish-gray at the top4 ,,iii ,the north side of the canyon has been much more deeply and elaborately carved than the south side2 most of the great architectural features are on the north side--the huge temples and fortresses and amphitheatres4 ,the strata dip very gently to the north and northeast1 while the slope of the surface is to the south and southeast4 ,this has caused the drainage from the great northern plateaus to flow into the canyon and thus cut and carve the north side as we behold it4 ,the visitor standing upon the south side looks across the great chasm upon the bewildering maze of monumental forms1 some of them as suggestive of human workmanship as anything in nature well can be1 --crumbling turrets and foundations1 forms as distinctly square as any work of man's hands1 vast fortress-like structures with salients and entering angles and wing walls resisting the siege of time1 huge pyramidal piles rising story on story1 three thousand feet or more above their foundations1 each successive story or superstructure faced by a huge vertical wall which rises from a sloping talus that connects it with the story next below4 ,the slopes or taluses represent the softer rock1 the vertical walls the harder layers4 ,usually four or five of these receding stories make up each temple or pyramid4 ,some of the larger structures show all the strata from the cap of light ,carboniferous limestone at the top to the gray ,cambrian sandstone at the bottom4 ,from others1 such as the ,temple of ,isis1 all the upper formations are gone with a pile of disintegrated red sandstone1 like a mass of brick dust on the top where the fragment of the old red wall made its last stand4 ,in those masses1 which are still crowned with the light gray limestone1 one sees how surely the process of disintegration is going on by the fragments and debris of light gray rock1 like the chips of giant workmen1 that strew the deeper-colored slopes below them4 ,these fragments fade out as the eye drops down the slopes1 as if they had melted like bits of ice4 ,indeed1 the melting of ice and the dissolution of a rock do not differ much except that one is very rapid and the other infinitely slow4 ,in time 7not man's time1 but the ,lord's time71 all these light masses that cap the huge temples will be weathered away1 yea1 and all the vast red layers beneath them1 and the huge structures will be slowly consumed by time4 ,the ,colorado ,river will carry their ashes to the sea1 and where they once stood will be seen gray1 desert-like plateaus4 ,their outlines now stand out like skeletons from which the flesh has been removed--sharp1 angular1 obtrusive1 but bound together as by ligaments of granite4 ,the tooth of time gnaws at them day and night and has been gnawing for thousands of centuries1 so that in some cases only their stumps remain4 ,from the ,temple of ,isis and the ,tomb of ,odin the two or three upper stories are gone4 ,on the next page is the ground plan of the ,temple of ,isis1 about twenty-five hundred feet high4 ,the first story is about a thousand feet2 the second1 three hundred and fifty feet2 the third1 one hundred and fifty feet2 the fourth1 five hundred feet2 and the fifth1 five hundred feet4 ,the finish at the top shows as a heavy crumbling wall1 probably one hundred feet or more high4 ,how the mass seems to be resisting the siege of time1 throwing out its salients here and there1 and meeting the onset of the foes like a military engineer4 ,the pyramidal form of these rock-masses is accounted for by the fact that they were carved out from the top downward1 and that each successive story is vastly older than the one immediately beneath it4 ,the erosive forces have been working whole geologic ages longer on the top layer of rock than on the bottom layer2 hence the topmost ones are entirely gone or else reduced to small dimensions4 ,but what feature or quality of the rock it is that lends itself so readily or so inevitably to these architectural forms--the four square foundations1 the end pilasters and balustrades1 and so on--is to me not so clear4 ,the peculiar rectangular jointings1 the alternation of soft and hard layers1 the nearly horizontal strata1 and other things1 no doubt1 enter into the problem4 ,many of these features are found in our older geology of the ,east1 as in the ,catskills --horizontal strata1 hard and soft layers alternating1 but with the vertical jointing less pronounced2 hence the ,catskills have few canon-like valleys1 though there are here and there huge gashes through the mountains that give a canon effect1 and there are gigantic walls high up on the face of some of the mountains that suggest one side of a mighty canon4 ,in the climate of the ,catskills the rock-masses of the ,colorado would crumble much more rapidly than they do here4 ,the lines of many of these natural temples or fortresses are still more lengthened and attenuated than those of the ,temple of ,isis1 appearing like mere skeletons of their former selves4 ,the forms that weather out the formation above this1 the ,permian1 appear to be more rotund1 and tend more to domes and rounded hills4 ,one of the most surprising features of the ,grand canon is its cleanness--its freedom from debris4 ,it is a home of the gods1 swept and garnished2 no litter or confusion or fragments of fallen and broken rocky walls anywhere4 ,those vast sloping taluses are as clean as a meadow2 rarely at the foot of the huge vertical walls do you see a fragment of fallen rock4 ,it is as if the processes of erosion and degradation were as gentle as the dews and the snows1 and carved out this mighty abyss grain by grain1 which has probably been the case4 ,that much of this red sandstone1 from the amount of iron it contains1 or from some other cause1 disintegrates easily and rapidly1 is very obvious4 ,looking down from ,hopi ,point upon a vast ridge called the ,man-of-,war1 one sees on the top1 where once there must have been a huge wall of rock1 a long level area of red soil that suggests a garden1 the more so because it is regularly divided up into sections by straight lines of huge stone placed as if by the hands of man4 ,one's sense of the depths of the canyon is so great that it almost makes one dizzy to see the little birds fly out over it1 or plunge down into it4 ,one seems to fear that they too will get dizzy and fall to the bottom4 ,we watched a line of tourists on mules creeping along the trail across the inner plateau1 and the unaided eye had trouble to hold them2 they looked like little red ants4 ,the eye has more difficulty in estimating sizes and distances beneath it than when they are above or on a level with it1 because it is so much less familiar with depth than with height or lateral dimensions4 ,another remarkable and unexpected feature of the canyon is its look of ordered strength4 ,nearly all the lines are lines of greatest strength4 ,the prevailing profile line everywhere is that shown herewith4 ,the upright lines represent lines of cyclopean masonry1 and the slant is the talus that connects them1 covered with a short1 sage-colored growth of some kind1 and as soft to the eye as the turf of our fields4 ,the simple1 strong structural lines assert themselves everywhere1 and give that look of repose and security characteristic of the scene4 ,the rocky forces always seem to retreat in good order before the onslaught of time2 there is neither rout nor confusion2 everywhere they present a calm upright front to the foe4 ,and the fallen from their ranks1 where are they8 ,a cleaner battlefield between the forces of nature one rarely sees4 ,the weaker portions are1 of course1 constantly giving way4 ,the elements incessantly lay siege to these fortresses and take advantage of every flaw or unguarded point1 so that what stands has been seven times1 yea1 seventy times seven times tested1 and hence gives the impression of impregnable strength4 ,the angles and curves1 the terraces and foundations1 seem to be the work of some master engineer1 with only here and there a toppling rock4 ,i was puzzled to explain to myself the reason of a certain friendly and familiar look which the great abyss had for me4 ,one sees or feels at a glance that it was not born of the throes and convulsions of nature--of earthquake shock or volcanic explosion4 ,it does not suggest the crush of matter and the wreck of worlds4 ,clearly it is the work of the more gentle and beneficent forces4 ,this probably accounts for the friendly look4 ,some of the inner slopes and plateaus seemed like familiar ground to me3 ,i must have played upon them when a school-boy4 ,bright ,angel ,creek1 for some inexplicable reason1 recalled a favorite trout-stream of my native hills1 and the old ,cambrian plateau that edges the inner chasm1 as we looked down upon it from nearly four thousand feet above1 looked like the brown meadow where we played ball in the old school-days1 friendly1 tender1 familiar1 in its slopes and terraces1 in its tints and basking sunshine1 but grand and awe-inspiring in its depths1 its huge walls1 and its terrific precipices4 ,the geologists are agreed that the canyon is only of yesterday in geologic time1--the ,middle ,tertiary1--and yet behold the duration of that yesterday as here revealed1 probably a million years or more6 ,we can no more form any conception of such time than we can of the size of the sun or of the distance of the fixed stars4 ,the forces that did all this vast delving and sculpturing--the air1 the rains1 the frost1 the sunshine--are as active now as they ever were2 but their activity is a kind of slumbering that rarely makes a sign4 ,only at long intervals is the silence of any part of the profound abyss broken by the fall of loosened rocks or sliding talus4 ,we ourselves saw where a huge splinter of rock had recently dropped from the face of the cliff4 ,in time these loosened masses disappear1 as if they melted like ice4 ,a city not made with hands1 but as surely not eternal in the earth6 ,in our humid and severe ,eastern climate1 frost and ice and heavyrains working together1 all these architectural forms would have crumbled long ago1 and fertile fields or hill-slopes would have taken their place4 ,in the older ,hawaiian ,islands1 which probably also date from ,tertiary times1 the rains have carved enormous canons and amphitheatres out of the hard volcanic rock1 in some places grinding the mountains to such a thin edge that a man may literally sit astride them1 each leg pointing into opposite valleys4 ,in the next geologic age1 the temples and monuments of the ,grand ,canon will have largely disappeared1 and the stupendous spectacle will be mainly a thing of the past4 ,it seems to take millions of years to tame a mountain1 to curb its rude1 savage power1 to soften its outlines1 and bring fertility out of the elemental crudeness and barrenness4 ,but time and the gentle rains of heaven will do it1 as they have done it in the ,east1 and as they are fast doing it in the ,west4 ,an old guide with whom ,i talked1 who had lived in and about the canon for twenty-six years1 said1 ,while we have been sitting here1 the canon has widened and deepened2 which was1 of course1 the literal truth1 the mathematical truth1 but the widening and deepening could not have been apprehended by human sense4 ,our little span of human life is far too narrow for us to be a witness of any of the great earth changes4 ,these changes are so slow1--oh1 so slow1--and human history is so brief4 ,so far as we are concerned1 the gods of the earth sit in council behind closed doors4 ,all the profound1 formative1 world-shaping forces of nature go on in a realm that we can reach only through our imaginations4 ,they so far transcend our human experiences that it requires an act of faith to apprehend them4 ,the repose of the hills and the mountains1 how profound6 yet they may be rising or sinking before our very eyes1 and we detect no sign4 ,only on exceptional occasions1 during earthquakes or volcanic eruptions1 is their dreamless slumber rudely disturbed4 ,geologists tell us that from the great plateau in which the ,grand ,canon is cut1 layers of rock many thousands of feet thick were cut away before the canon was begun4 ,starting from the high plateau of ,utah1 and going south toward the canon1 we descend a grand geologic stairway1 every shelf or tread of which consists of different formations fifty or more miles broad1 from the ,eocene1 at an altitude of over ten thousand feet at the start1 across the ,cretaceous1 the ,jurassic1 the ,triassic1 the ,permian1 to the ,carboniferous1 which is the bottom or landing of the ,grand ,canon plateau at an altitude of about five thousand feet4 ,each step terminates more or less abruptly1 the first by a drop of eight hundred feet1 ornamented by rows of square obelisks and pilasters of uniform pattern and dimension1 giving the effect1 says ,major ,dutton1 of a gigantic colonnade from which the entablature has been removed or has fallen in ruins4 ,the next step1 or platform1 the ,cretaceous1 slopes down gradually or dies out on the step beneath it2 then comes the ,jurassic1 which ends in white sandstone cliffs several hundred feet high2 then the ,triassic1 which ends in the famous vermilion cliffs thousands of feet high1 most striking in color and in form2 then the ,permian tread1 which also ends in striking cliffs1 with their own style of color and architecture2 and1 lastly1 the great ,carboniferous platform in which the canon itself is carved4 ,now1 all these various strata above the canon1 making at one time a thickness of over a mile1 were worn away in ,pliocene times1 before the cutting of the ,grand ,canon began4 ,had they remained1 and been cut through1 we should have had a chasm two miles deep instead of one mile4 ,the cutting power of a large1 rapid volume of water1 like the ,colorado1 charged with sand and gravel1 is very great4 ,according to ,major ,dutton1 in the hydraulic mines of ,california1 the escaping water has been known to cut a chasm from twelve to twenty feet deep in hard basaltic rock1 in a single year4 ,this is1 of course1 exceptional1 but there have1 no doubt1 been times when the ,colorado cut downward very rapidly4 ,the enormous weathering of its side walls is to me the more wonderful1 probably because the forces that have achieved this task are silent and invisible1 and1 so far as our experience goes1 so infinitely slow in their action4 ,the river is a tremendous machine for grinding and sawing and transporting1 but the rains and the frost and the air and the sunbeams smite the rocks as with weapons of down1 and one is naturally incredulous as to their destructive effects4 ,some of the smaller rivers in the plateau region flow in very deep but very narrow canons4 ,the rocks being harder and more homogeneous1 the weathering has been slight4 ,the meteoric forces have not taken a hand in the game4 ,thus the ,parunuweap ,canon is only twenty to thirty feet wide1 but from six hundred to fifteen hundred feet deep4 ,i suppose the slow1 inappreciable erosion to which the old guide alluded would have cut the canon since ,middle ,tertiary times4 ,the river1 eating downward at the rate of one sixteenth of an inch a year1 would do it in about one million years4 ,at half that rate it would do it in double that time4 ,in the earlier part of its history1 when the rainfall was doubtless greater1 and the river fuller1 the erosion must have been much more rapid than it is at present4 ,the widening of the canon was doubtless a slower process than the downward cutting4 ,but1 as ,i have said1 the downward cutting would tend to check itself from age to age1 while the widening process would go steadily forward4 ,hence1 when we look into the great abyss1 we have only to remember the enormous length of time that the aerial and subaerial forces have been at work to account for it4 ,two forces1 or kinds of forces1 have worked together in excavating the canon3 the river1 which is the primary factor1 and the meteoric forces1 which may be called the secondary1 as they follow in the wake of the former4 ,the river starts the gash downward1 then the aerial forces begin to eat into the sides4 ,acting alone1 the river would cut a trench its own width1 and were the rocks through which it saws one homogeneous mass1 or of uniform texture and hardness1 the width of the trench would probably have been very uniform and much less than it is now4 ,the condition that has contributed to its great width is the heterogeneity of the different formations--some hard and some soft4 ,the softer bands1 of course1 introduce the element of weakness4 ,they decay and crumble the more rapidly1 and thus undermine the harder bands overlying them1 which1 by reason of their vertical fractures1 break off and fall to the bottom1 where they are exposed to the action of floods and are sooner or later ground up in the river's powerful maw4 ,hence the recession of the banks of the canon has gone steadily on with the downward cutting of the river4 ,where the rock is homogeneous1 as it is in the inner chasm of the dark gneiss1 the widening process seems to have gone on much more slowly4 ,geologists account for the great width of the main chasm when compared with the depth1 on the theory that the forces that work laterally have been more continuously active than has the force that cuts downward4 ,there is convincing evidence that the whole region has been many times lifted up since the cutting began1 so that the river has had its active and passive stages4 ,as its channel approached the sea level1 its current would be much less rapid1 and the downward cutting would practically cease1 till the section was elevated again4 ,but all the time the forces working laterally would be at work without interruption1 and would thus gain on their checked brethren of the river bottom4 ,there is probably another explanation of what we see here4 ,apart from the mechanical weathering of the rocks as a result of the arid climate1 wherein rapid and often extreme changes of temperature take place1 causing the surface of the rocks to flake or scale off1 there has doubtless been unusual chemical weathering1 and this has been largely brought about by the element of iron that all these rocks possess4 ,their many brilliant colors are imparted to them by the various compounds of iron which enter into their composition4 ,and iron1 though the symbol of hardness and strength1 is an element of weakness in rocks1 as it causes them to oxidize or disintegrate more rapidly4 ,in the marble canon1 where apparently the rock contains no iron1 the lateral erosion has been very little1 though the river has cut a trench as deep as it has in other parts of its course4 ,how often ,i thought during those days at the canon of the geology of my native hills amid the ,catskills1 which show the effects of denudation as much older than that shown here as this is older than the washout in the road by this morning's shower6 ,the old red sandstone in which ,i hoed corn as a farm-boy dates back to ,middle ,palaeozoic time1 or to the spring of the great geologic year1 while the canon is of the late autumn4 ,could my native hills have replied to my mute questionings1 they would have said3 ,we were old1 old1 and had passed through the canon stage long before the ,grand ,canon was born4 ,we have had all that experience1 and have forgotten it ages ago4 ,no vestiges of our canons remain4 ,they have all been worn down and obliterated by the strokes of a hand as gentle as that of a passing cloud4 ,where they were1 are now broad1 fertile valleys1 with rounded knolls and gentle slopes1 and the sound of peaceful husbandry4 ,the great ice sheet rubbed us and ploughed us1 but our contours were gentle and rounded aeons before that event4 ,when the ,grand ,canon is as old as we are1 all its superb architectural features will have long since disappeared1 its gigantic walls will have crumbled1 and rolling plains and gentle valleys will have taken its place4 ,all of which seems quite probable4 ,with time enough1 the gentle forces of air and water will surely change the whole aspect of this tremendous chasm4 ,on the second day we made the descent into the canon on mule-back4 ,there is always satisfaction in going to the bottom of things4 ,then we wanted to get on more intimate terms with the great abyss1 to wrestle with it1 if need be1 and to feel its power1 as well as to behold it4 ,it is not best always to dwell upon the rim of things or to look down upon them from afar4 ,the summits are good1 but the valleys have their charm1 also2 even the valley of humiliation has its lessons4 ,at any rate1 four of us were unanimous in our desire to sound that vast profound on mule-back1 trusting that the return trip would satisfy our climbing aspirations1 as it did4 ,it is quite worth while to go down into the canon on mule-back1 if only to fall in love with a mule1 and to learn what a sure-footed1 careful1 and docile creature1 when he is on his good behavior1 a mule can be4 ,my mule was named ,johnny1 and there was soon a good understanding between us4 ,i quickly learned to turn the whole problem of that perilous descent over to him4 ,he knew how to take the sharp turns and narrow shelves of that steep zigzag much better than ,i did4 ,i do not fancy that the thought of my safety was ,johnny's guiding star2 his solicitude struck nearer home than that4 ,there was much ice and snow on the upper part of the trail1 and only those slender little legs of ,johnny's stood between me and a tumble of two or three thousand feet4 ,how cautiously he felt his way with his round little feet1 as1 with lowered head1 he seemed to be scanning the trail critically6 ,only when he swung around the sharp elbows of the trail did his forefeet come near the edge of the brink4 ,only once or twice at such times1 as we hung for a breath above the terrible incline1 did ,i feel a slight shudder4 ,one of my companions1 who had never before been upon an animal's back1 so fell in love with her ,sandy that she longed for a trunk big enough in which to take him home with her4 ,it was more than worth while to make the descent to traverse that ,cambrian plateau1 which from the rim is seen to flow out from the base of the enormous cliffs to the brink of the inner chasm1 looking like some soft1 lavender-colored carpet or rug4 ,i had never seen the ,cambrian rocks1 the lowest of the stratified formations1 nor set my foot upon ,cambrian soil4 ,hence a new experience was promised me4 ,rocky layers probably two or three miles thick had been worn away from the old ,cambrian foundations1 and when ,i looked down upon that gently undulating plateau1 the thought of the eternity of time which it represented tended quite as much to make me dizzy as did the drop of nearly four thousand feet4 ,we found it gravelly and desert-like1 covered with cacti1 low sagebrush1 and other growths4 ,the dim trail led us to its edge1 where we could look down into the twelve-hundred-foot ,v-shaped gash which the river had cut into the dark1 crude-looking ,archaean rock4 ,how distinctly it looked like a new day in creation where the horizontal1 yellowish-gray beds of the ,cambrian were laid down upon the dark1 amorphous1 and twisted older granite6 ,how carefully the level strata had been fitted to the shapeless mass beneath it6 ,it all looked like the work of a master mason2 apparently you could put the point of your knife where one ended and the other began4 ,the older rock suggested chaos and turmoil2 the other suggested order and plan1 as if the builder had said1 ,now upon this foundation we will build our house4 ,it is an interesting fact1 the full geologic significance of which ,i suppose ,i do not appreciate1 that the different formations are usually marked off from one another in just this sharp way1 as if each one was1 indeed1 the work of a separate day of creation4 ,nature appears at long intervals to turn over a new leaf and start a new chapter in her great book4 ,the transition from one geologic age to another appears to be abrupt3 new colors1 new constituents1 new qualities appear in the rocks with a suddenness hard to reconcile with ,lyell's doctrine of uniformitarianism1 just as new species appear in the life of the globe with an abruptness hard to reconcile with ,darwin's slow process of natural selection4 ,is sudden mutation1 after all1 the key to all these phenomena8 ,we ate our lunch on the old ,cambrian table1 placed there for us so long ago1 and gazed down upon the turbulent river hiding and reappearing in its labyrinthian channel so far below us4 ,it is worth while to make the descent in order to look upon the river which has been the chief quarryman in excavating the canon1 and to find how inadequate it looks for the work ascribed to it4 ,viewed from where we sat1 ,i judged it to be forty or fifty feet broad1 but ,i was assured that it was between two and three hundred feet4 ,water and sand are ever symbols of instability and inconstancy1 but let them work together1 and they saw through mountains1 and undermine the foundations of the hills4 ,it is always worth while to sit or kneel at the feet of grandeur1 to look up into the placid faces of the earth gods and feel their power1 and the tourist who goes down into the canon certainly has this privilege4 ,we did not bring back in our hands1 or in our hats1 the glory that had lured us from the top1 but we seemed to have been nearer its sources1 and to have brought back a deepened sense of the magnitude of the forms1 and of the depth of the chasm which we had heretofore gazed upon from a distance4 ,also we had plucked the flower of safety from the nettle danger1 always an exhilarating enterprise4 ,in climbing back1 my eye1 now sharpened by my geologic reading1 dwelt frequently and long upon the horizon where that cross-bedded ,carboniferous sandstone joins the ,carboniferous limestone above it4 ,how much older the sandstone looked6 ,i could not avoid the impression that its surface must have formed a plane of erosion ages and ages before the limestone had been laid down upon it4 ,we had left plenty of ice and snow at the top1 but in the bottom we found the early spring flowers blooming1 and a settler at what is called the ,indian ,gardens was planting his garden4 ,here ,i heard the song of the canon wren1 a new and very pleasing bird-song to me4 ,i think our dreams were somewhat disturbed that night by the impressions of the day1 but our day-dreams since that time have at least been sweeter and more comforting1 and ,i am sure that the remainder of our lives will be the richer for our having seen the ,grand ,canon4 ,,iii ,,the ,,spell ,,of ,,the ,,yosemite ,i ,yosemite won my heart at once1 as it seems to win the hearts of all who visit it4 ,in my case many things helped to do it1 but ,i am sure a robin1 the first ,i had seen since leaving home1 did his part4 ,he struck the right note1 he brought the scene home to me1 he supplied the link of association4 ,there he was1 running over the grass or perching on the fence1 or singing from a tree-top in the old familiar way4 ,where the robin is at home1 there at home am ,i4 ,but many other things helped to win my heart to the ,yosemite--the whole character of the scene1 not only its beauty and sublimity1 but the air of peace and protection1 and of homelike seclusion that pervades it2 the charm of a nook1 a retreat1 combined with the power and grandeur of nature in her sternest moods4 ,after passing from the hotel at ,el ,portal along the foaming and roaring ,merced ,river1 and amid the tumbled confusion of enormous granite boulders shaken down from the cliffs above1 you cross the threshold of the great valley as into some vast house or hall carved out of the mountains1 and at once feel the spell of the brooding calm and sheltered seclusion that pervades it4 ,you pass suddenly from the tumultuous1 the chaotic1 into the ordered1 the tranquil1 the restful1 which seems enhanced by the power and grandeur that encompass them about4 ,you can hardly be prepared for the hush that suddenly falls upon the river and for the gentle rural and sylvan character of much that surrounds you2 the peace of the fields1 the seclusion of the woods1 the privacy of sunny glades1 the enchantment of falls and lucid waters1 with a touch of human occupancy here and there--all this1 set in that enormous granite frame1 three or four thousand feet high1 ornamented with domes and spires and peaks still higher1--it is all this that wins your heart and fills your imagination in the ,yosemite4 ,as you ride or walk along the winding road up the level valley amid the noble pines and spruces and oaks1 and past the groves and bits of meadow and the camps of many tents1 and the huge mossy granite boulders here and there reposing in the shade of the trees1 with the full1 clear1 silent river winding through the plain near you1 you are all the time aware of those huge vertical walls1 their faces scarred and niched1 streaked with color1 or glistening with moisture1 and animated with waterfalls1 rising up on either hand1 thousands of feet high1 not architectural1 or like something builded1 but like the sides and the four corners of the globe itself4 ,what an impression of mass and of power and of grandeur in repose filters into you as you walk along6 ,el ,capitan stands there showing its simple sweeping lines through the trees as you approach1 like one of the veritable pillars of the firmament4 ,how long we are nearing it and passing it6 ,it is so colossal that it seems near while it is yet far off4 ,it is so simple that the eye takes in its naked grandeur at a glance4 ,it demands of you a new standard of size which you cannot at once produce4 ,it is as clean and smooth as the flank of a horse1 and as poised and calm as a ,greek statue4 ,it curves out toward the base as if planted there to resist the pressure of worlds--probably the most majestic single granite column or mountain buttress on the earth4 ,its summit is over three thousand feet above you4 ,across the valley1 nearly opposite1 rise the ,cathedral ,rocks to nearly the same height1 while farther along1 beyond ,el ,capitan1 the ,three ,brothers shoulder the sky at about the same dizzy height4 ,near the head of the great valley1 ,north ,dome1 perfect in outline as if turned in a lathe1 and its brother1 the ,half ,dome 7or shall we say half-brother87 across the valley1 look down upon ,mirror ,lake from an altitude of over four thousand feet4 ,these domes suggest enormous granite bubbles if such were possible pushed up from below and retaining their forms through the vast geologic ages4 ,of course they must have weathered enormously1 but as the rock seems to peel off in concentric sheets1 their forms are preserved4 ,,ii ,one warm1 bright ,sunday near the end of ,april1 six of us walked up from the hotel to ,vernal and ,nevada ,falls1 or as near to them as we could get1 and took our fill of the tumult of foaming waters struggling with the wreck of huge granite cliffs3 so impassive and immobile the rocks1 so impetuous and reckless and determined the onset of the waters1 till the falls are reached1 when the obstructed river seems to find the escape and the freedom it was so eagerly seeking4 ,better to be completely changed into foam and spray by one single leap of six hundred feet into empty space1 the river seems to say1 than be forever baffled and tortured and torn on this rack of merciless boulders4 ,we followed the zigzagging trail up the steep side of the valley1 touching melting snow-banks in its upper courses1 passing huge granite rocks also melting in the slow heat of the geologic ages1 pausing to take in the rugged1 shaggy spruces and pines that sentineled the mountain-sides here and there1 or resting our eyes upon ,liberty ,cap1 which carries its suggestive form a thousand feet or more above the ,nevada ,fall4 ,what beauty1 what grandeur attended us that day6 the wild tumult of waters1 the snow-white falls1 the motionless avalanches of granite rocks1 and the naked granite shaft1 ,liberty ,cap1 dominating all6 ,and that night1 too1 when we sat around a big camp-fire near our tents in the valley1 and saw the full moon come up and look down upon us from behind ,sentinel ,rock1 and heard the intermittent booming of ,yosemite ,falls sifting through the spruce trees that towered around us1 and felt the tender1 brooding spirit of the great valley1 itself touched to lyric intensity by the grandeurs on every hand1 steal in upon us1 and possess our souls--surely that was a night none of us can ever forget4 ,as ,yosemite can stand the broad1 searching light of midday and not be cheapened1 so its enchantments can stand the light of the moon and the stars and not be rendered too vague and impalpable4 ,,iii ,going from the ,grand ,canon to ,yosemite is going from one sublimity to another of a different order4 ,the canon is the more strange1 unearthly1 apocryphal1 appeals more to the imagination1 and is the more overwhelming in its size1 its wealth of color1 and its multitude of suggestive forms4 ,but for quiet majesty and beauty1 with a touch of the sylvan and pastoral1 too1 ,yosemite stands alone4 ,one could live with ,yosemite1 camp in it1 tramp in it1 winter and summer in it1 and find nature in her tender and human1 almost domestic moods1 as well as in her grand and austere4 ,but ,i do not think one could ever feel at home in or near the ,grand ,canon2 it is too unlike anything we have ever known upon the earth2 it is like a vision of some strange colossal city uncovered from the depth of geologic time4 ,you may have come to it1 as we did1 from the ,petrified ,forests1 where you saw the silicified trunks of thousands of gigantic trees or tree ferns1 that grew millions of years ago1 most of them uncovered1 but many of them protruding from banks of clay and gravel1 and in their interiors rich in all the colors of the rainbow1 and you wonder if you may not now be gazing upon some petrified antediluvian city of temples and holy places exhumed by mysterious hands and opened up to the vulgar gaze of to-day4 ,you look into it from above and from another world and you descend into it at your peril4 ,yosemite you enter as into a gigantic hall and make your own2 the canon you gaze down upon1 and are an alien1 whether you enter it or not4 ,yosemite is carved out of the most majestic and enduring of all rocks1 granite2 the ,grand ,canon is carved out of one of the most beautiful1 but perishable1 red ,carboniferous sandstone and limestone4 ,there is a maze of beautiful and intricate lines in the latter1 a wilderness of temple-like forms and monumental remains1 and noble architectural profiles that delight while they bewilder the eye4 ,yosemite has much greater simplicity1 and is much nearer the classic standard of beauty4 ,its grand and austere features predominate1 of course1 but underneath these and adorning them are many touches of the idyllic and the picturesque4 ,its many waterfalls fluttering like white lace against its vertical granite walls1 its smooth1 level floor1 its noble pines and oaks1 its open glades1 its sheltering groves1 its bright1 clear1 winding river1 its soft voice of many waters1 its flowers1 its birds1 its grass1 its verdure1 even its orchards of blooming apple trees1 all inclosed in this tremendous granite frame--what an unforgettable picture it all makes1 what a blending of the sublime and the homelike and familiar it all is6 ,it is the waterfalls that make the granite alive1 and bursting into bloom as it were4 ,what a touch they give6 how they enliven the scene6 ,what music they evoke from these harps of stone6 ,the first leap of ,yosemite ,falls is sixteen hundred feet--sixteen hundred feet of a compact mass of snowy rockets shooting downward and bursting into spray around which rainbows flit and hover4 ,the next leap is four hundred feet1 and the last six hundred4 ,we tried to get near the foot and inspect the hidden recess in which this airy spirit again took on a more tangible form of still1 running water1 but the spray over a large area fell like a summer shower1 drenching the trees and the rocks1 and holding the inquisitive tourist off at a safe distance4 ,we had to beat a retreat with dripping garments before we had got within fifty yards of the foot of the fall4 ,at first ,i was surprised at the volume of water that came hurrying out of the hidden recess of dripping rocks and trees--a swiftly flowing stream1 thirty or forty feet wide1 and four or five feet deep4 ,how could that comparatively narrow curtain of white spray up there give birth to such a full robust stream8 ,but ,i saw that in making the tremendous leap from the top of the precipice1 the stream was suddenly drawn out1 as we stretch a rubber band in our hands1 and that the solid and massive current below was like the rubber again relaxed4 ,the strain was over1 and the united waters deepened and slowed up over their rocky bed4 ,yosemite for a home or a camp1 the ,grand ,canon for a spectacle4 ,i have spoken of the robin ,i saw in ,yosemite ,valley4 ,think how forlorn and out of place a robin would seem in the ,grand ,canon6 ,what would he do there8 ,there is no turf for him to inspect1 and there are no trees for him to perch on4 ,i should as soon expect to find him amid the pyramids of ,egypt1 or amid the ruins of ,karnak4 ,the bluebird was in the ,yosemite also1 and the water-ouzel haunted the lucid waters4 ,i noticed a peculiarity of the oak in ,yosemite that ,i never saw elsewhere ,footnote3 ,i have since observed the same trait in the oaks in ,georgia--probably a characteristic of this tree in southern latitudes4--a fluid or outflowing condition of the growth aboveground1 such as one usually sees in the roots of trees--so that it tended to envelop and swallow1 as it were1 any solid object with which it came in contact4 ,if its trunk touched a point of rock1 it would put out great oaken lips several inches in extent as if to draw the rock into its maw4 ,if a dry limb was cut or broken off1 a foot from the trunk1 these thin oaken lips would slowly creep out and envelop it--a sort of ,western omnivorous trait appearing in the trees4 ,whitman refers to the slumbering and liquid trees4 ,these ,yosemite oaks recall his expression more surely than any of our ,eastern trees4 ,the reader may create for himself a good image of ,yosemite by thinking of a section of seven or eight miles of the ,hudson ,river1 midway of its course1 as emptied of its water and deepened three thousand feet or more1 having the sides nearly vertical1 with snow-white waterfalls fluttering against them here and there1 the famous spires and domes planted along the rim1 and the landscape of groves and glades1 with its still1 clear winding river1 occupying the bottom4 ,,iv ,one cannot look upon ,yosemite or walk beneath its towering walls without the question arising in his mind1 ,how did all this happen8 ,what were the agents that brought it about8 ,there has been a great geologic drama enacted here2 who or what were the star actors8 ,there are two other valleys in this part of the ,sierra1 ,hetch-,hetchy and ,king's ,river1 that are almost identical in their main features1 though the ,merced ,yosemite is the widest of the three4 ,each of them is a tremendous chasm in the granite rock1 with nearly vertical walls1 domes1 ,el ,capitans1 and ,sentinel and ,cathedral ,rocks1 and waterfalls--all modeled on the same general plan4 ,i believe there is nothing just like this trio of ,yosemites anywhere else on the globe4 ,guided by one's ordinary sense or judgment alone1 one's judgment as developed and disciplined by the everyday affairs of life and the everyday course of nature1 one would say on beholding ,yosemite that here is the work of exceptional and extraordinary agents or world-building forces4 ,it is as surprising and exceptional as would be a cathedral in a village street1 or a gigantic sequoia in a grove of our balsam firs4 ,the approach to it up the ,merced ,river does not prepare one for any such astonishing spectacle as awaits one4 ,the rushing1 foaming water amid the tumbled confusion of huge granite rocks and the open ,v-shaped valley1 are nothing very remarkable or unusual4 ,then suddenly you are on the threshold of this hall of the elder gods4 ,demons and furies might lurk in the valley below1 but here is the abode of the serene1 beneficent ,olympian deities4 ,all is so calm1 so hushed1 so friendly1 yet so towering1 so stupendous1 so unspeakably beautiful4 ,you are in a mansion carved out of the granite foundations of the earth1 with walls two or three thousand feet high1 hung here and there with snow-white waterfalls1 and supporting the blue sky on domes and pinnacles still higher4 ,oh1 the calmness and majesty of the scene6 the evidence of such tremendous activity of some force1 some agent1 and now so tranquil1 so sheltering1 so beneficent6 ,that there should be two or three ,yosemites in the ,sierra not very far apart1 all with the main features singularly alike1 is very significant--as if this kind of valley was latent in the granite of that region--some peculiarity of rock structure that lends itself readily to these formations4 ,the ,sierra lies beyond the southern limit of the great continental ice-sheet of late ,tertiary times1 but it nursed and reared many local glaciers1 and to the eroding power of these its ,yosemites are partly due4 ,but water was at work here long before the ice--eating down into the granite and laying open the mountain for the ice to begin its work4 ,ice may come1 and ice may go1 says the river1 but ,i go on forever4 ,water tends to make a ,v-shaped valley1 ice a ,u-shaped one1 though in the ,hawaiian ,islands1 where water erosion alone has taken place1 the prevailing form of the valleys is that of the ,u-shaped4 ,yosemite approximates to this shape1 and ice has certainly played a part in its formation4 ,but the glacier seems to have stopped at the outlet of the great valley2 it did not travel beyond the gigantic hall it had helped to excavate4 ,the valley of the ,merced from the mouth of ,yosemite downward is an open valley strewn with huge angular granite rocks and shows no signs of glaciation whatever4 ,the reason of this abruptness is quite beyond my ken4 ,it is to me a plausible theory that when the granite that forms the ,sierra was lifted or squeezed up by the shrinking of the earth1 large fissures and crevasses may have occurred1 and that ,yosemite and kindred valleys may be the result of the action of water and ice in enlarging these original chasms4 ,little wonder that the earlier geologists1 such as ,whitney1 were led to attribute the exceptional character of these valleys to exceptional and extraordinary agents--to sudden faulting or dislocation of the earth's crust4 ,but geologists are becoming more and more loath to call in the cataclysmal to explain any feature of the topography of the land4 ,not to the thunder or the lightning1 to earthquake or volcano1 to the forces of upheaval or dislocation1 but to the still1 small voice of the rain and the winds1 of the frost and the snow1--the gentle forces now and here active all about us1 carving the valleys and reducing the mountains1 and changing the courses of rivers1--to these1 as ,lyell taught us1 we are to look in nine cases out of ten1 yes1 in ninety-nine out of a hundred1 to account for the configuration of the continents4 ,the geologists of our day1 while not agreeing as to the amount of work done respectively by ice and water1 yet agree that to the latter the larger proportion of the excavation is to be ascribed4 ,at any rate between them both they have turned out one of the most beautiful and stupendous pieces of mountain carving to be found upon the earth4 ,,iv ,,through ,,the ,,eyes ,,of ,,the ,,geologist ,i ,how habitually we go about over the surface of the earth1 delving it or cultivating it or leveling it1 without thinking that it has not always been as we now find it1 that the mountains were not always mountains1 nor the valleys always valleys1 nor the plains always plains1 nor the sand always sand1 nor the clay always clay4 ,our experience goes but a little way in such matters4 ,such a thought takes us from human time to ,god's time1 from the horizon of place and years to the horizon of geologic ages4 ,we go about our little affairs in the world1 sowing and reaping and building and journeying1 like children playing through the halls of their ancestors1 without pausing to ask how these things all came about4 ,we do not reflect upon the age of our fields any more than we do upon the size of the globe under our feet3 when we become curious about such matters and look upon the mountains as either old or young1 or as the subjects of birth1 growth1 and decay1 then we are unconscious geologists4 ,it is to our interest in such things that geology appeals and it is this interest that it stimulates and guides4 ,what an astonishing revelation1 for instance1 that the soil was born of the rocks1 and is still born of the rocks2 that every particle of it was once locked up in the primitive granite and was unlocked by the slow action of the rain and the dews and the snows2 that the rocky ribs of the earth were clothed with this fertile soil out of which we came and to which we return by their own decay2 that the pulling-down of the inorganic meant the building-up of the organic2 that the death of the crystal meant the birth of the cell1 and indirectly of you and me and of all that lives upon the earth4 ,had there been no soil1 had the rocks not decayed1 there had been no you and me4 ,such considerations have long made me feel a keen interest in geology1 and especially of late years have stimulated my desire to try to see the earth as the geologist sees it4 ,i have always had a good opinion of the ground underfoot1 out of which we all come1 and to which we all return2 and the story the geologists tell us about it is calculated to enhance greatly that good opinion4 ,i think that if ,i could be persuaded1 as my fathers were1 that the world was made in six days1 by the fiat of a supernatural power1 ,i should soon lose my interest in it4 ,such an account of it takes it out of the realm of human interest1 because it takes it out of the realm of natural causation1 and places it in the realm of the arbitrary1 and non-natural4 ,but to know that it was not made at all1 in the mechanical sense1 but that it grew--that it is an evolution as much as the life upon the surface1 that it has an almost infinite past1 that it has been developing and ripening for millions upon millions of years1 a veritable apple upon the great sidereal tree1 ameliorating from cycle to cycle1 mellowing1 coloring1 sweetening--why1 such a revelation adds immensely to our interest in it4 ,as with nearly everything else1 the wonder of the world grows the more we grasp its history4 ,the wonder of life grows the more we consider the chaos of fire and death out of which it came2 the wonder of man grows the more we peer into the abyss of geologic time and of low bestial life out of which he came4 ,not a tree1 not a shrub1 not a flower1 not a green thing growing1 not an insect of an hour1 but has a background of a vast aeon of geologic and astronomic time1 out of which the forces that shaped it have emerged1 and over which the powers of chaos and darkness have failed to prevail4 ,the modern geologist affords us one of the best illustrations of the uses of the scientific imagination that we can turn to4 ,the scientific imagination seems to be about the latest phase of the evolution of the human mind4 ,this power of interpretation of concrete facts1 this ,miltonic flight into time and space1 into the heavens above1 and into the bowels of the earth beneath1 and bodying forth a veritable history1 a warring of the powers of light and darkness1 with the triumph of the angels of light and life1 makes ,milton's picture seem hollow and unreal4 ,the creative and poetic imagination has undoubtedly already reached its high-water mark4 ,we shall probably never see the great imaginative works of the past surpassed or even equaled4 ,but in the world of scientific discovery and interpretation1 we see the imagination working in new fields and under new conditions1 and achieving triumphs that mark a new epoch in the history of the race4 ,nature1 which once terrified man and made a coward of him1 now inspires him and fills him with love and enthusiasm4 ,the geologist is the interpreter of the records of the rocks4 ,from a bit of strata here1 and a bit there1 he re-creates the earth as it was in successive geologic periods1 as ,cuvier reconstructed his extinct animals from fragments of their bones2 and the same interpretative power of the imagination is called into play in both cases1 only the palaeontologist has a much narrower field to work in1 and the background of his re-creations must be supplied by the geologist4 ,everything connected with the history of the earth is on such a vast scale--such a scale of time1 such a scale of power1 such a scale of movement--that in trying to measure it by our human standards and experience we are like the proverbial child with his cup on the seashore4 ,looked at from our point of view1 the great geological processes often seem engaged in world-destruction rather than in world-building4 ,those oft-repeated invasions of the continents by the ocean1 which have gone on from ,archaean times1 and during which vast areas which had been dry land for ages were engulfed1 seem like world-wide catastrophes4 ,and no doubt they were such to myriads of plants and animals of those times4 ,but this is the way the continents grew4 ,all the forces of the invading waters were engaged in making more land4 ,the geologist is bold2 he is made so by the facts and processes with which he deals2 his daring affirmations are inspired by a study of the features of the earth about him2 his time is not our time1 his horizons are not our horizons2 he escapes from our human experiences and standards into the vast out-of-doors of the geologic forces and geologic ages4 ,the text he deciphers is written large1 written across the face of the continent1 written in mountain-chains and ocean depths1 and in the piled strata of the globe4 ,we untrained observers cannot spell out these texts1 because they are written large2 our vision is adjusted to smaller print2 we are like the school-boy who finds on the map the name of a town or a river1 but does not see the name of the state or the continent printed across it4 ,if the geologist did not tell us1 how should we ever suspect that probably where we now stand two or more miles of strata have been worn away by the winds and rains2 that the soil of our garden1 our farm1 represents the ashes of mountains burned up in the slow fires of the geologic ages4 ,geology first gives us an adequate conception of time4 ,the limitations which shut our fathers into the narrow close of six thousand years are taken down by this great science and we are turned out into the open of unnumbered millions of years4 ,upon the background of geologic time our chronological time shows no more than a speck upon the sky4 ,the whole of human history is but a mere fraction of a degree of this mighty arc4 ,the ,christian era would make but a few seconds of the vast cycle of the earth's history4 ,geologic time6 ,the words seem to ring down through the rocky strata of the earth's crust2 they reverberate under the mountains1 and make them rise and fall like the waves of the sea2 they open up vistas through which we behold the continents and the oceans changing places1 and the climates of the globe shifting like clouds in the sky2 whole races and tribes of animal forms disappear and new ones come upon the scene4 ,such a past6 the imagination can barely skirt the edge of it4 ,as the pool in the field is to the sea that wraps the earth1 so is the time of our histories to the cycle of ages in which the geologist reckons the events of the earth's history4 ,through the eyes of the geologist one may look upon his native hills and see them as they were incalculable ages ago1 and as they probably will be incalculable ages ahead2 those hills1 so unchanging during his lifetime1 and during a thousand lifetimes1 he may see as flitting as the cloud shadows upon the landscape4 ,out of the dark abyss of geologic time there come stalking the ghosts of lost mountains and lost hills and valleys and plains1 or lost rivers and lakes1 yea1 of lost continents2 we see a procession of the phantoms of strange and monstrous beasts1 many of them colossal in size and fearful in form1 and among the minor forms of this fearful troop of spectres we see the ones that carried safely forward1 through the vicissitudes of those ages1 the precious impulse that was to eventuate in the human race4 ,only the geologist knows the part played by erosion in shaping the earth's surface as we see it4 ,he sees1 ,i repeat1 the phantoms of vanished hills and mountains all about us4 ,he sees their shadow forms wherever he looks4 ,he follows out the lines of the flexed or folded strata where they come to the surface1 and thus sketches in the air the elevation that has disappeared4 ,in some places he finds that the valleys have become hills and the hills have become valleys1 or that the anticlines and synclines1 as he calls them1 have changed places--as a result of the unequal hardness of the rocks4 ,over all the older parts of the country the original features have been so changed by erosion that1 could they be suddenly restored1 one would be lost on his home farm4 ,the rocks have melted into soil1 as the snow-banks in spring melt into water4 ,the rocks that remain are like fragments of snow or ice that have so far withstood the weather4 ,geologists tell us that the great ,appalachian chain has been in the course of the ages reduced almost to a base level or peneplain1 and then reelevated and its hills and mountains carved out anew4 ,we change the surface of the earth a little with our engineering1 drain a marsh1 level a hill1 sweep away a forest1 or bore a mountain1 but what are these compared with the changes that have gone on there before our race was heard of8 ,in my native mountains1 the ,catskills1 all those peaceful pastoral valleys1 with their farms and homesteads1 lie two or three thousand feet below the original surface of the land4 ,could the land be restored again to its first condition in ,devonian times1 probably the fields where ,i hoed corn and potatoes as a boy would be buried one or two miles beneath the rocks4 ,the ,catskills are residual mountains1 or what ,agassiz calls denudation mountains4 ,when we look at them with the eye of the geologist we see the great plateau of tableland of ,devonian times out of which they were carved by the slow action of the sub-aerial forces4 ,they are like the little ridges and mounds of soil that remain of your garden-patch after the waters of a cloudburst have swept over it4 ,they are immeasurably old1 but they do not look it1 except to the eye of the geologist4 ,there is nothing decrepit in their appearance1 nothing broken1 or angular1 or gaunt1 or rawboned4 ,their long1 easy1 flowing lines1 their broad1 smooth backs1 their deep1 wide1 gently sloping valleys1 all help to give them a look of repose and serenity1 as if the fret and fever of life were long since passed with them4 ,compared with the newer mountains of uplift in the ,west1 they are like cattle lying down and ruminating in the field beside alert wild steers with rigid limbs and tossing horns4 ,they sleep and dream with bowed heads upon the landscape4 ,their great flanks and backs are covered with a deep soil that nourishes a very even growth of beech1 birch1 and maple forests4 ,though so old1 their tranquillity never seems to have been disturbed2 no storm-and-stress period has left its mark upon them4 ,their strata all lie horizontal just as they were laid down in the old seas1 and nothing but the slow gentle passage of the hand of time shows in their contours4 ,mountains of peace and repose1 hills and valleys with the flowing lines of youth1 coming down to us from the fore- world of ,palaeozoic time1 yet only rounded and mellowed by the aeons they have passed through4 ,old1 oh1 so old1 but young with verdure and limpid streams1 and the pastoral spirit of to-day6 ,to the geologist most mountains are short-lived4 ,when he finds great sturdy ranges1 like the ,alps1 the ,andes1 the ,himalayas1 he knows they are young1--mere boys4 ,when they get old1 they will be cut down1 and their pride and glory gone4 ,a few more of these geologic years and they will be reduced to a peneplain1--only their stumps left4 ,this seems to hold truer of mountains that are wrinkles in the earth's crust--squeezed up and crumpled stratified rock1 such as most of the great mountain-systems are--than of mountains of erosion like the ,catskills1 or of upheaval like the ,adirondacks4 ,the crushed and folded and dislocated strata are laid open to the weather as the horizontal strata1 and as the upheaved masses of ,archaean rock are not4 ,moreover1 strata of unequal hardness are exposed1 and this condition favors rapid erosion4 ,in imagination the geologist is present at the birth of whole mountain-ranges4 ,he sees them gestating in the womb of their mother1 the sea4 ,where our great ,appalachian range now stands1 he sees1 in the great interior sea of ,palaeozoic time1 what he calls a geosyncline1 a vast trough1 or cradle1 being slowly filled with sediment brought down by the rivers from the adjoining shores4 ,these sediments accumulate to the enormous depth of twenty-five thousand feet1 and harden into rock4 ,then in the course of time they are squeezed together and forced up by the contraction of the earth's crust1 and thus the ,appalachians are born4 ,when ,mother ,earth takes a new hitch in her belt1 her rocky garment takes on new wrinkles4 ,just why the earth's crust should wrinkle along lines of rock of such enormous thickness is not a little puzzling4 ,but we are told it is because this heavy mass of sediment presses the sea-bottom down till the rocks are fused by the internal heat of the earth and thus a line of weakness is established4 ,in any case the earth's forces act as a whole1 and the earth's crust at the thickest points is so comparatively thin--probably not much more than a heavy sheet of cardboard over a six-inch globe--that these forces seem to go their own way regardless of such minor differences4 ,the ,alps and the ,himalayas1 much younger than our ,appalachians1 were also begotten and nursed in the cradle of a vast geosyncline in the ,tertiary seas4 ,we speak of the birth of a mountain-range in terms of a common human occurrence1 or as if it were an event that might be witnessed1 measurable in human years or days1 whereas it is an event measurable only in geologic periods1 and geologic periods are marked off only on the dial-face of eternity4 ,the old ,hebrew writer gave but a faint image of it when he said that with the ,lord a thousand years are as one day2 it is hardly one hour of the slow beat of that clock whose hours mark the periods of the earth's development4 ,the whole long period during which the race of man has been rushing about1 tickling and scratching and gashing the surface of the globe1 would make but a small fraction of one of the days that make up the periods with which the geologist deals4 ,and the span of human life1 how it dwindles to a point in the face of the records of the rocks6 ,doubtless the birth of some of the mountain-systems of the globe is still going on1 and we suspect it not2 an elevation of one foot in a century would lift up the ,sierra or the ,rocky ,mountains in a comparatively short geologic period4 ,,ii ,it was the geologist that emboldened ,tennyson to sing1-- ,the hills are shadows and they flow ,from form to form and nothing stands1 ,they melt like mists1 the solid lands1 ,like clouds they shape themselves and go4 ,but some hills flow much faster than others4 ,hills made up of the latest or newest formations seem to take to themselves wings the fastest4 ,the ,archaean hills and mountains1 how slowly they melt away6 ,in the ,adirondacks1 in northern ,new ,england1 in the ,highlands of the ,hudson1 they still hold their heads high and have something of the vigor of their prime4 ,the most enduring rocks are the oldest2 and the most perishable are1 as a rule1 the youngest4 ,it takes time to season and harden the rocks1 as it does men4 ,then the earlier rocks seem to have had better stuff in them4 ,they are nearer the paternal granite2 and the primordial seas that mothered them were1 no doubt1 richer in the various mineral solutions that knitted and compacted the sedimentary deposits4 ,the ,cretaceous formations melt away almost like snow4 ,i fancy that the ocean now1 compared with the earlier condition when it must have been so saturated with mineral elements1 is like thrice-skimmed milk4 ,the geologist is not stinted for time4 ,he deals with big figures4 ,it is refreshing to see him dealing out his years so liberally4 ,do you want a million or two to account for this or that8 ,you shall have it for the asking4 ,he has an enormous balance in the bank of ,time1 and he draws upon it to suit his purpose4 ,in human history a thousand years is a long time4 ,ten thousand years wipe out human history completely4 ,ten thousand more1 and we are probably among the rude cave-men or river-drift men4 ,one hundred thousand1 and we are--where8 ,probably among the simian ancestors of man4 ,a million years1 and we are probably in ,eocene or ,miocene times1 among the huge and often grotesque mammals1 and our ancestor1 a little creature1 probably of the marsupial kind1 is skulking about and hiding from the great carnivorous beasts that would devour him4 ,little man1 least of all1 ,among the legs of his guardians tall1 ,walked about with puzzled look4 ,him by the hand dear ,nature took1 ,dearest ,nature1 strong and kind1 ,whispered1 ',darling1 never mind6 ,to-morrow they will wear another face1 ,the founder thou2 these are thy race6' ,i fancy ,emerson would be surprised and probably displeased at the use ,i have made of his lines4 ,i remember once hearing him say that his teacher in such matters as ,i am here touching upon was ,agassiz1 and not ,darwin4 ,yet did he not write that audacious line about the worm striving to be man8 ,and ,nature certainly took his little man by the hand and led him forward1 and on the morrow the rest of the animal creation wore another face4 ,,iii ,in my geological studies ,i have had a good deal of trouble with the sedimentary rocks1 trying to trace their genealogy and getting them properly fathered and mothered4 ,i do not think the geologists fully appreciate what a difficult problem the origin of these rocks presents to the lay mind4 ,they bulk so large1 while the mass of original crystalline rocks from which they are supposed to have been derived is so small in comparison4 ,in the case of our own continent we have1 to begin with1 about two million of square miles of ,archaean rocks in detached lines and masses1 rising here and there above the primordial ocean2 a large triangular mass in ,canada1 and two broken lines of smaller masses running south from it on each side of the continent1 inclosing a vast interior sea between them4 ,to end with1 we have the finished continent of eight million or more square miles1 of an average height of two thousand feet above the sea1 built up or developed from and around these granite centres very much as the body is built up and around the bones1 and of such prodigious weight that some of our later geologists seek to account for the continental submarine shelf that surrounds the continent on the theory that the land has slowly crept out into the sea under the pressure of its own weight4 ,and all this1--to say nothing of the vast amount of rock1 in some places a mile or two in thickness1 that has been eroded from the land surfaces of the globe in later geological time1 and now lies buried in the seas and lakes1--we are told1 is the contribution of those detached portions of ,archaean rock that first rose above the primordial seas4 ,it is a greater miracle than that of the loaves and the fishes4 ,we have vastly more to end with than we had to begin with4 ,the more the rocks have been destroyed1 the more they have increased2 the more the waters have devoured them1 the more they have multiplied and waxed strong4 ,either the geologists have greatly underestimated the amount of ,archaean rock above the waters at the start1 or else there are factors in the problem that have not been taken into the account4 ,lyell seems to have appreciated the difficulties of the problem1 and1 to account for the forty thousand feet of sediment deposited in ,palaeozoic times in the region of the ,appalachians1 he presupposes a neighboring continent to the east1 probably formed of ,laurentian rocks1 where now rolls the ,atlantic4 ,but if such a continent once existed1 would not some vestige of it still remain8 ,the fact that no trace of it as been found1 it seems to me1 invalidates ,lyell's theory4 ,archaean time in geologic history answers to pre-historic time in human history2 all is dark and uncertain1 though we are probably safe in assuming that there was more strife and turmoil among the earth-building forces than there has ever been since4 ,the body of unstratified rock within the limits of ,north ,america may have been much greater than is supposed1 but it seems to me impossible that it could have been anything like as massive as the continent now is4 ,if this had been the case there would have been no great interior sea1 and no wide sea-margins in which the sediments of the stratified rocks could have been deposited4 ,more than four fifths of the continent is of secondary origin and shows that vast geologic eras went to the making of it4 ,it is equally hard to believe that the primary or igneous rocks1 where they did appear1 were sufficiently elevated to have furnished through erosion the all but incalculable amount of material that went to the making of our vast land areas4 ,but the geologists give me the impression that this is what we are to believe4 ,chamberlin and ,salisbury1 in their recent college geology1 teach that each new formation implies the destruction of an equivalent amount of older rock--every system being entirely built up out of the older one beneath it4 ,lyell and ,dana teach the same thing4 ,if this were true1 could there have been any continental growth at all8 ,could a city grow by the process of pulling down the old buildings for material to build the new8 ,if the geology is correct1 ,i fail to see how there would be any more land surface to-day then there was in ,archaean times4 ,each new formation would only have replaced the old from which it came4 ,the ,silurian would only have made good the waste of the ,cambrian1 and the ,devonian made good the waste of the ,silurian1 and so on to the top of the series1 and in the end we should still have been at the foot of the stairs4 ,that vast interior sea that in ,archaean times stretched from the rudimentary ,appalachian ,mountains to the rudimentary ,rocky ,mountains1 and which is now the heart of the continent1 would still have been a part of the primordial ocean4 ,but instead of that1 this sea is filled and piled up with sedimentary rocks thousands of feet thick1 that have given birth on their surfaces to thousands of square miles of as fertile soil as the earth holds4 ,that the original crystalline rocks played the major part in the genealogy of the subsequent stratified rocks1 it would be folly to deny4 ,but it seems to me that chemical and cosmic processes1 working through the air and the water1 have contributed more than they have been credited with4 ,it looks as if in all cases when the soil is carried to the seabottom as sediment1 and again1 during the course of ages1 consolidated into rocks1 the rocks thus formed have exceeded in bulk the rocks that gave them birth4 ,something analogous to vital growth takes place4 ,it seems as if the original granite centres set the world-building forces at work4 ,they served as nuclei around which the materials gathered4 ,these rocks bred other rocks1 and these still others1 and yet others1 till the framework of the land was fairly established4 ,they were like the pioneer settlers who plant homes here and there in the wilderness1 and then in due time all the land is peopled4 ,the granite is the ,adam rock1 and through a long line of descent the major part of all the other rocks directly or indirectly may be traced4 ,thus the granite begot the ,algonquin1 the ,algonquin begot the ,cambrian1 the ,cambrian begot the ,silurian1 the ,silurian begot the ,devonian1 and so on up through the ,carboniferous1 the ,permian1 the ,mesozoic rocks1 the ,tertiary rocks1 to the latest ,quaternary deposit4 ,but the curious thing about it all is the enormous progeny from so small a beginning2 the rocks seem really to have grown and multiplied like organic beings2 the seed of the granite seems to have fertilized the whole world of waters1 and in due time they brought forth this huge family of stratified rocks4 ,there stands the ,archaean ,adam1 his head and chest in ,canada1 his two unequal legs running1 one down the ,pacific coast1 and one down the ,atlantic ,coast1 and from his loins1 we are told1 all the progeny of rocks and soils that make up the continent have sprung1 one generation succeeding another in regular order4 ,his latest offspring is in the ,south and ,southwest1 and in the interior4 ,these are the new countries1 geologically speaking1 as well as humanly speaking4 ,the great interior sea1 epicontinental1 the geologists call it1 seems to have been fermenting and laboring for untold aeons in building up these parts of the continent4 ,in the older ,eastern ,states we find the sons and grandsons of the old ,adam granite2 but in the ,south and ,west we find his offspring of the twentieth or twenty-fifth generation1 and so unlike their forebears2 the ,permian rocks1 for instance1 and the ,cretaceous rocks1 are soft and unenduring1 for the most part4 ,the later slates1 too1 are degenerates1 and much of the sandstones have the hearts of prodigals4 ,in the ,bad ,lands of ,arizona ,i could have cut my way into some of the ,eocene formations with my pocket-knife4 ,apparently the farther away we get from the parent granite1 the more easily is the rock eroded4 ,nearly all the wonderful and beautiful sculpturing of the rocks in the ,west and ,southwest is in rocks of comparatively recent date4 ,can we say that all the organic matter of our time is from preexisting organic matter8 one organism torn down to build up another8 that the beginning of the series was as great as the end8 ,there may have been as much matter in a state of vital organization in ,carboniferous or in ,cretaceous times as in our own1 but there is certainly more now than in early ,palaeozoic times4 ,yet every grain of this matter has existed somewhere in some form for all time4 ,or we might ask if all the wealth of our day is from preexisting wealth--one fortune pulled down to build up another1--too often the case1 it is true1--thus passing the accumulated wealth along from one generation to another4 ,on the contrary1 has there not been a steady gain of that we call wealth through the ingenuity and the industry of man directed towards the latent wealth of the earth8 ,in a parallel manner has there been a gain in the bulk of the secondary rocks through the action of the world-building forces directed to the sea1 the air1 and the preexisting rocks4 ,had there been no gain1 the fact would suggest the ill luck of a man investing his capital in business and turning it over and over1 and having no more money at the end than he had in the beginning4 ,nothing is in the sedimentary rock that was not at one time in the original granite1 or in the primordial seas1 or in the primordial atmosphere1 or in the heavens above1 or in the interior of the earth beneath4 ,we must sweep the heavens1 strain the seas1 and leach the air1 to obtain all this material4 ,evidently the growth of these rocks has been mainly a chemical process--a chemical organization of preexisting material1 as much so as the growth of a plant or a tree or an animal4 ,the color and texture and volume of each formation differ so radically from those of the one immediately before it as to suggest something more than a mere mechanical derivation of one from the other4 ,new factors1 new sources1 are implied4 ,the farther we recede from the present time1 says ,lyell1 and the higher the antiquity of the formations which we examine1 the greater are the changes which the sedimentary deposits have undergone4 ,above all have chemical processes produced changes4 ,this constant passage of the mineral elements of the rocks through the cycle of erosion1 sedimentation1 and reinduration has exposed them to the action of the air1 the light1 the sea1 and has thus undoubtedly brought about a steady growth in their volume and a constant change in their color and texture4 ,marl and clay and green sand and salt and gypsum and shale1 all have their genesis1 all came down to us in some way or in some degree1 from the aboriginal crystalline rocks2 but what transformations and transmutations they have undergone6 ,they have passed through ,nature's laboratory and taken on new forms and characteristics4 ,all sediments deposited in the sea1 says my geology1 undergo more or less chemical change1 and many chemical changes involve notable changes in volume of the mineral matter concerned4 ,it has been estimated that the conversion of granite rock into soil increases its volume eighty-eight per cent1 largely as the result of hydration1 or the taking up of water in the chemical union4 ,the processes of oxidation and carbonation are also expansive processes4 ,whether any of this gain in volume is lost in the process of sedimentation and reconsolidation1 ,i do not know4 ,probably all the elements that water takes from the rocks by solution1 it returns to them when the disintegrated parts1 in the form of sediment in the sea1 is again converted into strata4 ,it is in this cycle of rock disintegration and rock re-formation that the processes of life go on4 ,without the decay of the rock there could be no life on the land4 ,water and air are always the go-betweens of the organic and inorganic4 ,after the rains have depleted the rocks of their soluble parts and carried them to the sea1 they come back and aid vegetable life to unlock and appropriate other soluble parts1 and thus build up the vegetable and1 indirectly1 the animal world4 ,that the growth of the continents owes much to the denudation of the sea-bottom1 brought about by the tides and the ocean-currents1 which were probably much more powerful in early than in late geologic times1 and to submarine mineral springs and volcanic eruptions of ashes and mud1 admits of little doubt4 ,that it owes much to extra-terrestrial sources--to meteorites and meteoric dust--also admits of little doubt4 ,it seems reasonable that earlier in the history of the evolution of our solar system there should have been much more meteoric matter drifting through the interplanetary spaces than during the later ages1 and that a large amount of this matter should have found its way to the earth1 in the form either of solids or of gases4 ,probably much more material has been contributed by volcanic eruptions than there is any evidence of apparent4 ,the amount of mineral matter held in solution by the primordial seas must have been enormous4 ,the amount of rock laid down in ,palaeozoic times is estimated at fifty thousand feet1 and of this thirteen thousand feet were limestone2 while the amount laid down in ,mesozoic times1 for aught we know a period quite as long1 amounts to eight thousand feet1 indicating1 it seems to me1 that the deposition of sediment went on much more rapidly in early geologic times4 ,we are nearer the beginning of things4 ,all chemical processes in the earth's crust were probably more rapid4 ,doubtless the rainfall was more1 but the land areas must have been less4 ,the greater amount of carbon dioxide in the air during ,palaeozoic times would have favored more rapid carbonation4 ,when granite is dissolved by weathering1 carbon unites with the potash1 the soda1 the lime1 the magnesia1 and the iron1 and turns them into carbonates and swells their bulk4 ,the one thing that is passed along from formation to formation unchanged is the quartz sand4 ,quartz is tough1 and the sand we find to-day is practically the same that was dissolved out of the first crystalline rocks4 ,take out of the soil and out of the rocks all that they owe to the air1--the oxygen and the carbon1--and how would they dwindle6 ,the limestone rocks would practically disappear4 ,probably not less that one fourth of all the sedimentary rocks are limestone1 which is of animal origin4 ,how much of the lime of which these rocks were built was leached out of the land-areas1 and how much was held in solution by the original sea-water1 is of course a question4 ,but all the carbon they hold came out of the air4 ,the waters of the primordial ocean were probably highly charged with mineral matter1 with various chlorides and sulphates and carbonates1 such as the sulphate of soda1 the sulphate of lime1 the sulphate of magnesia1 the chloride of sodium1 and the like4 ,the chloride of sodium1 or salt1 remains1 while most of the other compounds have been precipitated through the agency of minute forms of life1 and now form parts of the soil and of the stratified rocks beneath it4 ,if the original granite is the father of the rocks1 the sea is the mother4 ,in her womb they were gestated and formed4 ,had not this seesaw of land and ocean taken place1 there could have been no continental growth4 ,every time the land took a bath in the sea1 it came up enriched and augmented4 ,each new layer of rocky strata taken on showed a marked change in color and texture4 ,it was a kind of evolution from that which preceded it4 ,whether the land always went down1 or whether the sea at times came up1 by reason of some disturbance of the ocean floors in its abysmal depths1 we have no means of knowing4 ,in any case1 most of the land has taken a sea bath many times1 not all taking the plunge at the same time1 but different parts going down in successive geologic ages4 ,the original granite upheavals in ,british ,america1 and in ,new ,york and ,new ,england1 seem never to have taken this plunge1 except an area about ,lake ,superior which geologists say has gone down four or five times4 ,the ,laurentian and ,adirondack ranges have never been in pickle in the sea since they first saw the light4 ,in most other parts of the continent1 the seesaw between the sea and the land has gone on steadily from the first1 and has been the chief means of the upbuilding of the land4 ,to the slow and oft-repeated labor-throes of the sea we owe the continents4 ,but the sea devours her children4 ,large areas1 probably continental in extent1 have gone down and have not yet come up1 if they ever will4 ,the great ,mississippi ,valley was under water and above water time after time during the ,palaeozoic period4 ,the last great invasion of the land by the sea1 and probably the greatest of all1 seems to have been in ,cretaceous times1 at the end of the ,mesozoic period4 ,there were many minor invasions during ,tertiary times1 but none on so large a scale as this ,cretaceous invasion4 ,at this time a large part of ,north and ,south ,america1 and of ,europe1 and parts of ,asia and ,australia went under the ocean4 ,it was as if the earth had exhaled her breath and let her abdomen fall4 ,the sea united the ,gulf of ,mexico with the ,arctic ,ocean1 and covered the ,prairie and the ,gulf ,states and came up over ,new ,jersey to the foot of the ,archaean ,highlands4 ,this great marine inundation probably took place several million years ago4 ,it was this visitation of the sea that added the vast chalk beds to ,england and ,france4 ,in parts of this country limestone beds five or six thousand feet thick were laid down1 as well as extensive chalk beds4 ,the earth seems to have taken another hitch in her girdle during this era4 ,as the land went down1 the mountains came up4 ,most of the great ,western mountain-chains were formed during this movement1 and the mountains of ,mexico were pushed up4 ,the ,alps were still under the sea1 but the ,sierra and the ,alleghanies were again lifted4 ,it is very interesting to me to know that in ,colorado charred wood1 and even charcoal1 have been found in ,cretaceous deposits4 ,the fact seems to give a human touch to that long-gone time4 ,it was1 of course1 long ages before the evolution of man1 as man1 had taken place1 yet such is the power of association1 that those charred sticks instantly call him to mind1 as if we had come upon the place of his last campfire4 ,at any rate1 it is something to know that man1 when he did come1 did not have to discover or invent fire1 but that this element1 which has played such a large part in his development and civilization1 was here before him1 waiting1 like so many other things in nature1 to be his servant and friend4 ,as ,vulcan was everywhere rampant during this age1 throwing out enough lava in ,india alone to put a lava blanket four or five feet thick over the whole surface of the globe1 it was probably this fire that charred the wood4 ,it would be interesting to know if these enormous lava-flows always followed the subsidence of some part of the earth's crust4 ,in ,cretaceous times both the subsidence and the lava- flows seem to have been worldwide4 ,,iv ,we seem to think that the earth has sown all her wild oats1 that her riotous youth is far behind her1 and that she is now passing into a serene old age4 ,had we lived during any of the great periods of the past1 we might have had the same impression1 so tranquil1 for the most part1 has been the earth's history1 so slow and rhythmical have been the beats of the great clock of time4 ,we see this in the homogeneity of the stratified rocks1 layer upon layer for thousands of feet as uniform in texture and quality as the goods a modern factory turns out1 every yard of it like every other yard4 ,no hitch or break anywhere4 ,the bedding-planes of many kinds of rock occur at as regular intervals as if they had been determined by some kind of machinery4 ,here1 on the formation where ,i live1 there are alternate layers of slate and sandstone1 three or four inches thick1 for thousands of feet in extent2 they succeed each other as regularly as the bricks and mortar in a brick wall1 and are quite as homogeneous4 ,what does this mean but that for an incalculable period the processes of erosion and deposition went on as tranquilly as a summer day8 ,there was no strike among the workmen1 and no change in the plan of the building1 or in the material4 ,the ,silurian limestone1 the old red sandstone1 the ,hamilton flag1 the ,oneida conglomerate1 where ,i have known them1 are as homogeneous as a snowbank1 or as the ice on a mountain lake2 grain upon grain1 all from the same source in each case1 and sifted and sorted by the same agents1 and the finished product as uniform in color and quality as the output of some great mill4 ,then1 after a vast interval1 there comes a break3 something like an end and a new beginning1 as if one day of creation were finished and a new one begun4 ,the different formations lie unconformably upon each other1 which means revolution of some sort4 ,there has been a strike or a riot in the great mill1 or it has lain idle for a long period1 and when it has resumed1 a different product is the result4 ,something happened between each two layers4 ,what8 ,though in remote geological ages the earth-building and earth-shaping forces were undoubtedly more active than they are now1 and periods of deformation and upheaval were more frequent1 yet had we lived in any of those periods we should probably have found the course of nature1 certainly when measured by human generations1 as even and tranquil as we find it to-day4 ,the great movements are so slow and gentle1 for the most part1 that we should not have been aware of them had we been on the spot4 ,once in a million or a half-million years there may have been terrific earthquakes and volcanic eruptions1 such as seem to have taken place in ,tertiary time1 and at the end of the ,palaeozoic period4 ,yet the vast stretches of time between were evidently times of tranquillity4 ,it is probable that the great glacial winter of ,pleistocene times came on as gradually as our own winter1 or through a long period of slowly falling temperature1 and as it seems to have been many hundred thousand times as long1 this preceding period1 or great fall1 was probably equally long--so long that the whole of recorded human history would form but a small fraction of it4 ,it may easily be1 ,i think1 that we are now living in the spring of the great cycle of geologic seasons4 ,the great ice-sheet has withdrawn into the ,far ,north like snowbanks that linger in our wood in late spring1 where it still covers ,greenland as it once covered this country4 ,when the season of summer is reached1 some hundreds of thousands of years hence1 it may be that tropical life1 both animal and vegetable1 will again flourish on the shores of the ,arctic ,ocean1 as it did in ,tertiary times4 ,and all this change will come about so quietly and so slowly that nobody will suspect it4 ,that the crust of the earth is becoming more and more stable seems a natural conclusion1 but that all folding and shearing and disruption of the strata are at an end1 is a conclusion we cannot reach in the face of the theory that the earth is shrinking as it cools4 ,the earth cools and contracts with almost infinite slowness1 and the great crustal changes that take place go on1 for the most part1 so quietly and gently that we should not suspect them were we present on the spot1 and long generations would not suspect them4 ,elevations have taken place across the beds of rivers without deflecting the course of the river2 the process was so slow that the river sawed down through the rock as fast as it came up4 ,nearly all the great cosmic and terrestrial changes and revolutions are veiled from us by this immeasurable lapse of time4 ,any prediction about the permanence of the land as we know it1 or as the race has known it1 or of our immunity from earthquakes or volcanic eruptions1 or of a change of climate1 or of any cosmic catastrophe1 based on human experience1 is vain and worthless4 ,what is or has been in man's time is no criterion as to what will be in ,god's time4 ,the periods of great upheaval and deformation in the earth's crust appear to be separated by millions of years4 ,away back in pre-,cambrian times1 there appear to have been immense periods during which the peace and repose of the globe were as profound as in our own time4 ,then at the end of ,palaeozoic time--how many millions of years is only conjectural--the truce of aeons was broken1 and the dogs of war let loose2 it was a period of revolution which resulted in the making of one of our greatest mountain-systems1 the ,appalachian1 and in an unprecedented extinction of species4 ,later eras have witnessed similar revolutions4 ,why may they not come again8 ,the shrinking of the cooling globe must still go on1 and this shrinking must give rise to surface disturbances and dislocations1 maybe in the uplift of new mountain-ranges from the sea-bottom1 now undreamed of1 and in volcanic eruptions as great as any in the past4 ,such a shrinkage and eruption made the ,hawaiian ,islands1 probably in ,tertiary times2 such a shrinkage may make other islands and other continents before another period of equal time has elapsed4 ,of course the periods and eras into which the geologists divide geologic time are as arbitrary as the months and seasons into which we divide our year1 and they fade out into each other in much the same way2 but they are really as marked as our seasonal divisions4 ,not in their climates--for the climate of the globe seems to have been uniformly warm from pole to pole1 without climatic zones1 throughout the vast stretch of ,palaeozoic and ,mesozoic times--but in the succession of animal and vegetable life which they show4 ,the rocks are the cemeteries of the different forms of life that have appeared upon the globe1 and here the geologist reads their succession in time1 and assigns them to his geologic horizons accordingly4 ,the same or allied forms appeared upon all parts of the earth at approximately the same time1 so that he can trace his different formations around the world by the fossils they hold4 ,each period had its dominant forms4 ,the ,silurian was the great age of trilobites2 the ,devonian1 the age of fishes2 ,mesozoic times swarm with the gigantic reptiles2 and in ,tertiary times the mammals are dominant4 ,each period and era has its root in that which preceded it4 ,there were rude1 half-defined fishes in the ,silurian1 and probably the beginning of amphibians in the ,devonian1 and some small mammalian forms in the ,mesozoic time1 and doubtless rude studies of the genus ,homo in ,tertiary times4 ,nature works up her higher forms ,jike a human inventor from rude beginnings4 ,her first models barely suggest her later achievements4 ,in the vegetable world it has been the same2 from the first simple algae in the ,cambrian seas up to the forests of our own times1 the gradation is easily traced4 ,step by step has vegetable life mounted4 ,the great majority of the plants and animals of one period fail to pass over into the next1 just as our spring flowers fail to pass over into summer1 and our summer flowers into fall4 ,but the law of evolution is at work1 and life always rises on stepping-stones of its dead self to higher things4 ,v ,,holidays ,,in ,,hawaii ,i ,on the edge of the world my islands lie1 sings ,mrs4 ,frear in her little lyric on the ,hawaiian ,islands4 ,on the edge of the world my islands lie1 ,under the sun-steeped sky2 ,and their waving palms ,are bounteous alms ,to the soul-spent passer-by4 ,on the edge of the world my islands sleep ,in a slumber soft and deep4 ,what should they know ,of a world of woe1 ,and myriad men that weep8 ,on the rim of the world my fancy seemed to see them that ,may day when we went aboard the huge ,pacific steamship in ,san ,francisco ,harbor1 and she pointed her prow westward toward the vast wilderness of the ,pacific--on the edge of the world1 looking out and down across the vast water toward ,asia and ,australia4 ,i wondered if the great iron ship could find them1 and if we should realize or visualize the geography or the astronomy when we got there1 and see ourselves on the huge rotundity of the globe not far above her equatorial girdle4 ,yes1 on the rim of the world they lie to the traveler steaming toward them1 and on the rim of the world they lie in his memory after his return1 basking there in that tropical sunlight1 forever fanned by those cooling trade winds1 and encompassed by that morning-glory sea4 ,with my mind's eye ,i behold them rising from that enormous abyss of the ,pacific1 fire-born and rain-carved1 vast volcanic mountains miles deep under the sea1 and in some cases miles high above it1 clothed with verdure and teeming with life1 the scene of long-gone cosmic strife and destruction1 now the abode of rural and civic peace and plenty4 ,the ,pacific treated me so much better than the ,atlantic ever had that ,i am probably inclined to overestimate everything ,i saw on the voyage4 ,it was the first trip at sea that ever gave me any pleasure4 ,the huge vessels are in themselves a great comfort1 and in the placid waters and the sliding down the rotund side of the great globe under warmer and warmer skies one gains a very agreeable experience4 ,the first day's run must have carried us out and over that huge ,pacific abyss1 the ,tuscarora ,deep1 where there were nearly four miles of water under us4 ,some of our aeroplanes have gone up half that distance and disappeared from sight4 ,i fancy that our ship1 more than six hundred feet long1 would have appeared a very small object1 floating across this briny firmament1 could one have looked up at it from the bottom of that sea4 ,the ,hawaiian ,islands rise from the border of that vast deep1 and one can fancy how that huge pot must have boiled back in ,tertiary times1 when the red-hot lava of which they are mainly built up was poured from the interior of the globe4 ,softer and more balmy grew the air every day1 more and more placid and richly tinted grew the sea1 till1 on the morning of the sixth day1 we saw ahead of us1 low on the horizon1 the dim outlines of the mountains of ,molokai4 ,the island of ,oahu1 upon which ,honolulu is situated1 was soon in sight4 ,it was not long before we saw ,diamond ,head1 a vast crater bowl1 eight hundred feet high on its ocean side1 and half a mile across1 sitting there upon the shore like some huge1 strange work of man's hand1 running back through the hills with a level rim1 and seaward with a sloping base1 brown and ribbed1 and in every way unique and striking4 ,we were approaching a land the child of tropic seas and volcanic lava1 and many of the features were new and strange to us4 ,the mountains looked familiar in outline1 but the colors of the landscape1 the soft lilacs1 greens1 and browns1 and the whole atmosphere of the scene1 were unlike anything we had ever before seen4 ,and ,diamond ,head1 what a feature it was6 ,had it only had a head1 one could easily have seen in it a suggestion of a couchant lion1 bony1 huge1 and tawny1 looking seaward1 and guarding the harbor of ,honolulu which lies just behind it4 ,into this harbor1 in the soft morning air1 our ship soon found its way1 and the monotony of the vast1 unpeopled sea was quickly succeeded by human scenes of the most varied and animated character1 not the least novel of which were the swarms of half-amphibious native boys who surrounded the vessel as she lay at the wharf1 and with brown1 upturned faces and beckoning hands tempted the passengers to toss dimes into the water4 ,as the coins struck the surface they would dive with the ease and quickness of seals1 and seize the silver apparently before it had gone a yard toward the bottom4 ,holding the coins up to view between the thumb and finger1 they would slip them into their mouths and solicit more4 ,on shore we were greeted with the music of the ,royal ,hawaiian ,band1 and a motley crowd of ,hawaiians1 ,japanese1 ,chinese1 ,portuguese1 and ,americans1 bearing colored leis1 or wreaths of flowers1 which they waved at friends on board1 and with which they bedecked them as soon as they came off the gangplank4 ,it was a ,babel of tongues in which the strange1 vowel-choked language of the ,hawaiians was conspicuous4 ,honolulu is a beautiful city1 clean1 bright1 well ordered1 and well appointed1--electric lights1 good streets1 electric cars1 fine hotels and clubs1 excellent fire protection1 mountain water1 libraries1 parks1 handsome buildings1 attractive homes1--in fact1 all that we boast of in our home cities4 ,embosomed in palms1 with mangoes1 and other tropical trees1 with a profusion of gorgeously colored vines and hedges1 with spacious1 well-kept grounds about the large and comfortable houses in the residential portion--these features1 with the ready hospitality of the people1 made our hearts warm towards it at once4 ,volcanic heights on all the land side look down upon the city4 ,mount ,tantalus1 rising four thousand feet above the sea1 is just back of it1 with its long slopes of volcanic ash and sand now clothed by forests and fertile fields1 and a huge ancient crater called the ,punch ,bowl1 born probably on the selfsame day1 the geologists think1 as ,diamond ,head1 dominates the city in the immediate foreground4 ,if the ,punch ,bowl were again to overflow with the fiery liquid1 the city would soon go up in smoke4 ,but its bowl-like interior is now covered with grass and trees1 and presents a scene of the most peaceful1 rural character4 ,the ,orient and the ,occident meet in ,honolulu4 ,there ,asia and ,america join hands4 ,the main features of the city are decidedly ,american1 but the people seen upon the street and at work indoors and out are more than half ,oriental4 ,the native population cuts only a small figure4 ,the real workers--carpenters1 masons1 field hands1 and house servants--are mostly ,japanese4 ,virtually all the work of the immense sugar plantations is done by the little brown men and women1 while ,china supplies some of the merchants in the city and the sailors and stewards on the ocean steamers4 ,what admirable servants the ,chinese make1 so respectful1 so prompt1 so silent1 so quick to comprehend6 ,the ,japanese house servants on the islands also give efficient and gracious service4 ,i had gone to ,honolulu reluctantly1 but tarried there joyfully4 ,the fine climate1 with its even temperature of about eighty degrees ,fahrenheit1 and with all that is enervating or oppressive in that degree of heat winnowed out of it by the ceaseless trade winds2 the almost unbroken sunshine1 perfumed now and then by a sprinkle of sunlit rain from the mountains2 the wonderful sea laving the shores on the one hand and the cool1 cloud-capped1 and rain-drenched heights within easy reach on the other2 the green1 cozy valleys2 the broad sweep of plain2 the new1 strange nature on every side2 the novel and delicious fruits2 the pepsin-charged papaya1 or tree melon1 which tickles the palate while it heals and renews the whole digestive system2 the mangoes 7oh1 the mangoes672 the cordiality of the people2 the inviting bungalows2 the clean streets2 the good service everywhere--all made me feel how mistaken was my reluctance4 ,most of the ,americans one meets there are descendants of the missionaries who went out from ,new ,england and ,new ,york early in the last century1 and one feels at home with them at once4 ,many of the residents there have been educated in the ,states4 ,the ,governor1 ,mr4 ,frear1 is a graduate of ,yale2 his wife is a graduate of ,wellesley4 ,one day a charming ,southern woman1 president of the ,college ,club1 invited us to meet the college women of the city4 ,the gathering took place under the trees upon the lawn of one of the older homesteads4 ,there were forty college women present1 many of them teachers1 from ,vassar1 ,wellesley1 ,smith1 ,bryn ,mawr1 and ,barnard4 ,among them were two girls who had visited me at my cabin1 ,slabsides1 while they were at ,vassar4 ,wide as is the world1 the traveler is pretty sure to strike threads of relation with his home country wherever he goes4 ,i made the acquaintance in ,honolulu of a man from my own county2 another1 who showed us great kindness1 was from an adjoining county2 while one day upon the street ,i was called by name by a man whom ,i had known as a boy in the town where ,i now live4 ,one ,saturday a walking-club1 largely made up of men and women teachers1 whose native ,hawaiian name meant ,walkers in ,unfrequented ,places1 asked us to join them in a walk up ,palola ,valley to the site of an extinct crater well up in the mountains4 ,these walkers in unfrequented places proved to be real walkers1 and gave us all and more than we had bargained for--more mud and wet and slippery trails through clinging vines and rank lantana scrub than was good for our shoes and garments or for the bodies inside them4 ,it was a long pull of many miles1 at first up the valley over a fair highway1 then into the woods on the mountain-side along a trail that was muddy and slippery from the recent showers1 and most of the time was buried out of sight beneath the high1 coarse stag-horn fern and a thick growth of lantana that met above it as high as our shoulders4 ,a more discouraging mountain climb ,i never undertook4 ,the vegetation was all novel1 but it had that barbaric rankness of all tropical woods1 with nothing of the sylvan sweetness and simplicity of our home woods4 ,there were no fine1 towering trees1 but low1 gnarled1 and tortuous ones1 which1 with their hanging vines1 like the broken ropes of a ship's rigging1 and their parasitic growths1 presented a riotous1 disheveled appearance4 ,nature in the tropics1 left to herself1 is harsh1 aggressive1 savage2 looks as though she wanted to hang you with her dangling ropes1 or impale you on her thorns1 or engulf you in her ranks of gigantic ferns4 ,her mood is never as placid and sane as in the ,north4 ,there is a tree in the ,hawaiian woods that suggests a tree gone mad4 ,it is called the hau-tree4 ,it lies down1 squirms1 and wriggles all over the ground like a wounded snake2 it gets up1 and then takes to earth again4 ,now it wants to be a vine1 now it wants to be a tree4 ,it throws somersaults1 it makes itself into loops and rings1 it rolls1 it reaches1 it doubles upon itself4 ,altogether it is the craziest vegetable growth ,i ever saw4 ,where you can get it up off the ground and let it perform its antics on a broad skeleton framework1 it makes a cover that no sunbeam can penetrate1 and forms a living roof to the most charming verandas--or lanais1 as they are called in the islands--that one can wish to see4 ,but ,i saw and heard one thing on this walk that struck a different note3 it was one of the native birds1 the ,oahu thrush4 ,the moment ,i heard it ,i was reminded of our brown thrasher1 though the song1 or whistle1 was much finer and richer in tone than that of our bird4 ,the glimpse ,i got of the bird showed it to be of about the size and shape of our thrasher1 but much brighter in color4 ,it seems as though the two species must have had a common origin some time1 somewhere4 ,i was attracted by no other native bird on this walk4 ,in the valley below we had seen and heard the ,chinese workmen going about their rice-fields making strange sounds to drive away the rice-birds1 a small1 brown species that has been introduced from ,india4 ,when we reached the mountain-top1 we found it enveloped in fog and mist1 and the scene was cold and cheerless4 ,we looked down through a screen of foliage into a deep valley that seemed almost beneath us1 and which is supposed to have been an ancient crater4 ,there1 on the brink1 the walkers had a rude cabin1 where we ate our lunch beside a fire and tried to dry our bedraggled garments4 ,from this point some of the party continued their walk1 looking for more unfrequented places1 but some of us had longings the other way1 and retraced our steps toward the sunlight and the drier winds we had left4 ,we reached town footsore and bedraggled1 and the little ,japanese who cleaned and pressed my suit of clothes1 and made them look as good as new for seventy-five cents1 well earned his money4 ,the walk of eight or ten miles which we took two weeks later with ,governor ,frear and his wife1 up the new ,castle trail to the mountain-top behind ,tantalus1 had some features in common with the first walk1--the increasing mist and coolness as we entered the mountains1 the dripping bushes1 and the slippery paths1--but we got finer views1 and found a better-kept trail4 ,our walk ended on the top of a narrow ridge of the mountain1 where we ate our lunch in a cold1 driving mist and were a bit uncomfortable4 ,i was interested in the character of the ridge upon which we sat4 ,it was not more than six feet wide1 a screen of volcanic rock worn almost to an edge1 and separated two valleys six or seven hundred feet deep4 ,the ,governor said he could take me where the dividing ridge between the two valleys was so narrow that one could literally sit astride of it1 so that one leg would point to one valley and the other to the other4 ,this is a feature of a new country geologically2 the rains and other agents of erosion have whittled the mountains to sharp edges1 but have not yet rounded or leveled them4 ,the northeast trade winds which blow upon these islands nine months in the year bring a burden of moisture from the ,pacific which is condensed into rain and mist by the mountains1 and which1 with the rank vegetation that it fosters1 carves them and sharpens them like a great grindstone revolving against their sides4 ,at a place called the ,pali--and at the ,needles1 on the island of ,maui--it has worn through the mountain-chain and made deep and very picturesque gorges where1 in the case of the ,pali1 the wind is so strong and steady that you can almost lie down upon it4 ,it was near the ,pali that ,i saw what ,i had never seen or heard of before--a waterfall reversed1 going up instead of down4 ,it suggested ,stockton's story of negative gravity4 ,a small brook comes down off the mountain and attempts to make the leap down a high precipice2 but the winds catch it and carry it straight up in the air like smoke4 ,it is translated2 it becomes a mere wraith hovering above the beetling crag4 ,night and day this goes on1 the wind snatching from the mountains in this summary way the water it has brought them4 ,on the walk with the ,governor we made the acquaintance of some of the land shells for which these islands are famous--pretty1 pearl-like little whorls living on the largest trees1 and about the size of a chipping sparrow's egg1 with pointed ends1 variously colored4 ,there are more than two hundred species on the different islands1 ,i think1 each valley having varieties peculiar to itself1 showing what a factor isolation is in the evolution of new species4 ,the ,governor and his wife1 and a young man who had specialized in conchology1 plucked them from nearly every bush and tree2 but my eye1 being untrained in this kind of work1 was very slow in finding them4 ,coming down from these ,hawaiian mountains is like coming out of a dripping tent of clouds into the clear1 warm sunshine4 ,the change is most delightful4 ,your clothing dries very quickly1 and chilliness gives place to genial warmth4 ,and the prospects that open before you1 the glimpses down into these deep1 yellow-green1 crater-like valleys1 checkered with neat little ,chinese farms1 the panorama of the city and the sea unrolling as you come down1 and always ,diamond ,head standing guard there to the east--how the vision of it all lingers in the memory6 ,in climbing the heights1 it was always a surprise to me to see the ,pacific rise up as ,i rose1 till it stood up like a great blue wall there against the horizon4 ,a level plain unrolls in the same way as we mount above it1 but it does not produce the same illusion of rising up like a wall or a mountain-range2 the blue1 facile water cheats the eye4 ,one of the novel pleasures in which most travelers indulge while in ,honolulu is surf-riding at ,waikiki1 near ,diamond ,head4 ,the sea1 with a floor of lava and coral1 is here shallow for a long distance out1 and the surf comes in at intervals like a line of steeds cantering over a plain4 ,we went out in our bathing-suits in a long1 heavy dugout1 with a lusty native oarsman in each end4 ,when several hundred yards from shore1 we saw1 on looking seaward1 the long1 shining billows coming1 whereupon our oarsmen headed the canoe toward shore1 and plied their paddles with utmost vigor1 uttering simultaneously a curious1 excited cry4 ,in a moment the breaker caught us and1 in some way holding us on its crest1 shot us toward the shore like an arrow4 ,the sensation is novel and thrilling4 ,the foam flies2 the waters leap about you4 ,you are coasting on the sea1 and you shout with delight and pray for the sensation to continue4 ,but it is quickly over4 ,the hurrying breaker slips from under you1 and leaves you in the trough1 while it goes foaming on the shore4 ,then you turn about and row out from the shore again1 and wait for another chance to be shot toward the land on the foaming crest of a great ,pacific wave4 ,i suppose the trick is in the skill of the oarsmen in holding the boat on the pitch of the billow so that in its rush it takes you with it4 ,the native boys do the feat standing on a plank4 ,i was tempted to try this myself1 but of course made a comical failure4 ,one of my pleasant surprises in ,honolulu--one that gave the touch of nature which made me feel less a stranger there--was learning that the ,european skylark had been introduced and was thriving on the grassy slopes back of the city4 ,the mina1 a species of starling from ,india as large as our robin and rather showily dressed1 with a loud1 strident voice1 ,i had seen and heard everywhere both in town and country1 but he was a stranger and did not appeal to me4 ,but the thought of the skylark brought ,shelley and ,wordsworth1 and ,english downs and meadows1 near to me at once1 and ,i was eager to hear it4 ,so early one morning we left the ,pleasanton1 our tarrying-place1 and climbed the long1 pastoral slope above the city1 where cattle and horses were grazing1 and listened for this minstrel from the motherland4 ,we had not long to wait4 ,sure enough1 not far from us there sprang from the turf ,shelley's bird1 and went climbing his invisible spiral toward the sky1 pouring out those hurried1 ecstatic notes1 just as ,i had heard him above the ,south ,downs of ,england4 ,it was a moment of keen delight to me4 ,the bird soared and hovered1 drifting about1 as it were1 before the impetuous current of his song1 with all the joy and abandon with which the poets have credited him4 ,it was like a bit of ,english literature vocal in the air there above these alien scenes4 ,presently another went up1 and then another1 and still another1 the singers behaving in every respect as they do by the ,avon and the ,tweed1 and for a moment ,i seemed to be breathing the air that ,wordsworth and ,shelley breathed4 ,if our excursion had taken us only to the island of ,oahu and its beautiful city1 it would have been eminently worth while1 but the last week in ,may we took what is called the inter-island trip1 a six days' voyage among the various islands1 when we visited the great extinct crater of ,haleakala on ,maui1 and the active volcano ,kilauea on ,hawaii4 ,it is a voyage over several rough channels in a small steamer1 and my friends said1 ,if you have not yet paid tribute to ,neptune1 you will pay it now4 ,but ,i did not4 ,my companions were prostrated1 but ,i see ,neptune respects age1 and my slumbers were undisturbed4 ,a wireless message had gone to ,mr4 ,aiken1 on the island of ,maui1 to meet us with his automobile in the morning at the landing at ,kahului4 ,we were taken to the shore on a lighter1 along with the horses and cargo1 and there found our new friend awaiting us4 ,the great mountain of ,haleakala rose up in a long line against the sky on the left1 and the deeply eroded and canyoned mountains of the older1 or west1 end of the island on our right4 ,toward the latter our guide took us4 ,it was a pleasant spin along the good roads1 in the fresh morning air1 near the beach1 to ,wailuku1 the shire town of the island1 two or three miles distant4 ,here we were most hospitably entertained in the home of ,mr4 ,penhallow1 the director of a large sugar plantation4 ,here for the first time in my life ,i saw a gang of steam plows working1 pulled by a stationary engine at each end of the field1 and turning over the red1 heavy volcanic soil4 ,the work was mainly in the hands of ,japanese1 and was well done4 ,we afterward saw ,japanese by the score1 both men and women1 planting a large area of newly plowed land with sugar-cane4 ,after we were rested and refreshed1 and had sampled the mangoes that had fallen from a tree near the house1 ,mr4 ,aiken took us in his automobile up into the famous ,iao ,valley1 at the mouth of which ,wailuku is situated4 ,it is a deep1 striking chasm carved out of the mountain by the stream1 rank with verdure of various kinds1 and looked down upon by sharp peaks and ridges five or six thousand feet high4 ,we soon reached the clear rapid1 brawling stream1 as bright as a ,catskill mountain trout brook1 and after a mile or two along its course we came to the end of the road1 where we left the machine and took a trail that wound onward and upward over a slippery surface and through dripping bushes1 for we here began to reach the skirts of the little showers that almost constantly career over and about the interior of these mountains4 ,i neither saw nor heard a bird or other live thing4 ,guava apples lay on the ground all along the trail1 and one could eat them and not make faces4 ,some of the sharp1 knife-blade ridges that cut down toward us from the higher peaks were very startling1 and so steep and high that they could be successfully scaled only by the aid of ropes and ladders4 ,a more striking object-lesson in erosion by rain would be hard to find4 ,there were no naked rocks2 short1 thick vegetation covered even the steepest slopes1 and the vegetable acids which this generated1 and the perpetual rains1 weathered the mountains down4 ,it soon became so wet that we stopped far short of the head of the valley1 and turned back4 ,i wished to look into the great1 deep1 green amphitheatre which seems to lie at the head1 but had glimpses of it only from a distance4 ,how many millenniums will it be1 ,i said to myself1 before erosion will have completed its work here1 and these thin1 high mountain-walls will be in ruins8 ,surely not many4 ,we returned to the hospitable home we had left1 and passed the midday there4 ,in the afternoon ,mr4 ,aiken1 guiding our eyes by the forms of trees that cut the horizon-line on the huge flank of ,haleakala1 pointed out the place of his own homestead1 twenty or more miles away4 ,from this point the great mountain appeared like a vast landscape tilted up at an easy angle against the horizon4 ,one could hardly believe it was ten thousand feet high4 ,the machine climbed easily more than half the distance to ,mr4 ,aiken's plantation1 which we reached in good time in the afternoon1 and where we passed a very enjoyable night4 ,it was a surprise to find swarms of mosquitoes at this altitude1 so free from all mosquito-breeding waters4 ,but the house was well protected against them4 ,mosquitoes1 as well as flies and vermin1 are not native to the island4 ,they came in ships not very long ago1 and are now very troublesome in certain parts4 ,they came round the ,horn4 ,mr4 ,aiken's house itself came round the ,horn seventy or eighty years ago4 ,it is a quaint1 ,new ,england type of house1 and has a very homelike look4 ,in front of it1 near the gate1 stands a ,japanese pine which is an object of veneration to all ,japanese who chance to come that way4 ,often their eyes fill with tears on beholding it1 so responsive are the little yellow men to associations of home4 ,in the morning ,mr4 ,aiken drove us in a wagon to a place he has called ,idlewild1 six miles farther up the great slope of the mountain4 ,this slope of ,haleakala is like a whole township1 diversified with farms and woods1 valleys and hills1 resting on its elbows1 so to speak1 and looking out over the ,pacific4 ,we could look up to the cloud-line1 about seven thousand feet above the sea1 and occasionally get a glimpse of the long line of the summit through rifts in the clouds4 ,at ,idlewild our expedition1 consisting of six mules and four people1 was fitted out1 and in the early afternoon we started on the trail up the mountain4 ,for several miles our way led over grassy slopes where cattle were grazing1 and above which skylarks were singing4 ,this was one of the happy surprises of the trip--the soaring and singing skylarks4 ,all the way till we reached the cloud-belt1 we had the larks pouring down their music from the sky above us4 ,they seemed specially jubilant4 ,it was ,may in ,england1 too1 and they sang as though the spirit of those downs and fells was stirring in their hearts1 under alien skies1 but true to the memories of home4 ,before we reached the summit we came upon another introduction from overseas--the ,english pheasant4 ,one started up from some bushes only a few yards from the trail1 went booming away1 and disappeared in a deep gully4 ,a little later another sprang up1 uttering a cackling cry as it flew away4 ,we saw three altogether4 ,the only home thing we saw was white clover in patches here and there1 and it gave a most welcome touch to the unfamiliar scenes4 ,the cattle we passed on the way were suffering dreadfully from another introduction from the ,states--the ,texas horn-fly1 which had recently made its appearance4 ,the poor beasts were driven half-crazy by it1 as their sunken eyes and poor condition plainly showed4 ,the trail became rougher and steeper as we ascended1 and the grass and trees gave place to low1 scrubby bushes4 ,we were half an hour or more in the cloud-belt1 where the singing skylarks did not follow us4 ,the clouds proved to be as loose of texture and as innocent as any summer fog that loiters in our valleys2 but it was good to emerge into the sunshine again1 and see the jagged line of the top sensibly nearer1 and the canopy of clouds unroll itself beneath us4 ,far ahead of us and near the summit we saw a band of wild goats--twenty-two1 ,i counted--leisurely grazing along1 and now and then casting glances down upon us4 ,they were domestic animals gone wild1 and still retained their bizarre colors of white and black4 ,one big black leader with a long beard looked down at us and shook his head threateningly4 ,we reached the summit before the sun reached the horizon1 and our eyes looked forth upon a strange world1 indeed4 ,on one hand the vast sea of cloud1 into which the sun was about to drop1 rolled away from the mountain below us1 with its white surface and the irregular masses rising up from it1 suggesting a sea of floating ice4 ,through rifts in it we caught occasional glimpses of the ,pacific--blue1 vague1 mystical gulfs that seemed filled with something less substantial than water4 ,on the other hand was the vast crater of ,haleakala1 two thousand feet deep1 and many miles across1 in which the shadows were deepening1 and which looked like some burned-out ,hades4 ,we stood or sat on the jagged edge and saw the day depart and the night come down1 the glory of cloud and sea and sunset on the one hand1 and on the other side the fearful chasm of the extinct volcano1 red and black and barren1 with the hosts of darkness gathering in it4 ,it was like a seat between heaven and hell4 ,then later1 when the ,southern ,cross came out and rose above the awful gulf1 the scene was most impressive4 ,the crater of ,haleakala is said to be the largest extinct crater in the world4 ,to follow all its outlines would lead one a distance of more than twenty miles1 but it is so irregular in shape that one gets only a poor conception of its extent in a view from its brink4 ,at its widest part it cannot be more than four or five miles across4 ,it was evidently formed by the whole top of the mountain having been blown out or else sunk down in recent geologic times4 ,the fragments of jagged rock that thickly strew the surface all about the summit look as if they might have fallen there4 ,the floor of the interior of the crater is thickly studded with many minor craters1 through which the internal fires found vent after the crater as a whole had ceased to act4 ,they are of the shape of huge haystacks1 with a hole in the top1 and looked soft and yielding in outline1 and in color as though they were composed of soot and brick-dust4 ,one of them is much larger than any of the rest4 ,i thought it might be two hundred feet high4 ,it is eight hundred1 said our guide2 yet its summit was more than a thousand feet below the rim upon which we sat4 ,there has been no eruption in ,haleakala since early in the last century4 ,over a large area of the interior the black lava1 cracked and crumpled1 meets the eye4 ,miles down one of its great arms toward the sea1 we could see the green lines of vegetation1 mostly rank ferns1 advancing like an invading army4 ,far ahead were the skirmishers1 loose bands of ferns1 with individual plants here and there pushing on over the black1 uneven surface toward the secondary craters of the centre4 ,vegetation was also climbing down the ragged sides of the crater1 dropping from rock to rock like an invading host4 ,the ferns1 those pioneers of the vegetable world1 appear to come first4 ,their giant progenitors subdued the rocks and made the soil in ,carboniferous times1 and prepared the way for higher vegetable forms1 and now these striplings take up the same task in this primitive world of the crater of ,haleakala4 ,their task is a long and arduous one1 much more so than in those parts of the island where the rainfall is more copious2 but give them time enough1 and the barren lava will all be clothed with verdure4 ,when decomposed and ripened by time1 it makes a red1 heavy soil that supports many kinds of plants and trees4 ,the ferns come slowly marching in from without1 but in the centre of the crater1 on the slopes of the red cones and at their bases1 is another plant that seems indigenous1 born of the ash and the scoria of the volcano1 and that apparently has no chlorophyl in its make-up4 ,this is a striking plant1 called the silver sword1 from the shape and color of its long1 narrow leaves4 ,they are the color of frosted silver1 and are curved like a sword4 ,it is a strange apparition1 white and delicate and rare1 springing up in the crater of a slumbering volcano4 ,a more striking contrast with the atmosphere of the surroundings would be hard to find--a suggestion of peace and purity above the graves of world-destroying forces1 an angel of light nourished by the ashes of the demons of death and darkness4 ,it is claimed by the people of the island that this plant is found in no other place on the globe1 but this can hardly be possible4 ,if its evolution took place in one crater1 it would take place in another4 ,it consists of a great mass of silvery-white1 bristling leaves resting upon the ground1 from which rises a stalk1 strung with flowers1 to the height of five or six feet4 ,it is evidently of the ,yucca type of plant1 and has met with a singular transformation in the sleeping volcano's mouth1 all its harsh and savage character turned into gentleness and grace1 its armament of needles and daggers giving place to a soft1 silvery down4 ,we did not see the plant growing except at a great distance1 through field-glasses1 but we saw a photograph of it and a dried specimen after we came down from the summit4 ,it is an all day's trip down into the crater and back1 climbing over sliding sands and loose scoria1 and our time was too limited to undertake it4 ,we passed the night on the summit in a rude stone hut1 which had a fireplace where the guide made coffee1 but we had only the volcanic rock for floor4 ,upon this we spread our ample supply of blankets1 and got such sleep as is to be had on high1 cold mountain-tops1 where the ribs of the mountain prove to be so much harder than one's own ribs--not a first-class quality of sleep1 but better than none4 ,i arose about two o'clock1 and made my way out into the star-blazing night4 ,such glory of the heavens ,i had never before seen4 ,i had never before been lifted up so near them1 and hence had never before seen them through so rarefied an atmosphere4 ,the clouds and vapors had disappeared1 and all the hosts of heaven were magnified4 ,the ,milky ,way seemed newly paved and swept4 ,there was no wind and no sound4 ,the mighty crater was a gulf of blackness1 but the sky blazed with light4 ,the dawn comes early on such a mountain-top1 and before four o'clock we were out under the fading stars4 ,as we had seen the day pass into night1 surrounded by these wonderful scenes1 now we saw the night pass into day1 and the elemental grandeur on every hand reborn before us4 ,there was not a wisp of cloud or fog below us or about us to blur the great picture4 ,the sun came up from behind the vast1 long1 high wall of the ,pacific that filled the eastern horizon1 and the shadows fled from the huge pile of mountain in the west4 ,we hung about the rim of the great crater or sat upon the jagged rocks1 wrapped in our blankets1 till the sun was an hour high4 ,we got another glimpse of the band of goats picking their way from ledge to ledge far below us on the side of the crater4 ,i saw and heard two or three mina birds fly past1 apparently seeking new territory to occupy4 ,these birds are more enterprising than the ,english sparrows1 which also swarm in the island towns but do not brave the mountain-heights4 ,the bird from ,india seems at home everywhere4 ,after breakfast we still haunted for an hour or more the brink of the great abyss1 where one seemed to feel the pulse of primal time1 loath to tear ourselves away1 loath also to take a last view of the panorama of land and sea1 lit by the morning sun1 which spread out far below us4 ,to the southeast we could dimly see the outlines of the island of ,hawaii1 with a faint gleam of snow on its great mountain ,mauna ,loa1 nearly fourteen thousand feet high4 ,in the northwest a dim1 dark mass low in the horizon marked the place of ,oahu4 ,the ocean rose in the vast horizon and blended with the sky4 ,the eye could not tell where one ended and the other began4 ,the mules had had a comfortable night in a rude stone stable against the rocks1 and were more eager to hit the down trail than were we4 ,the descent proved more fatiguing than the ascent1 the constant plunging motion of the animals' shoulders being a sore trial4 ,we dropped down through the belt of clouds that had begun to form1 and out into the grassy region of the singing skylarks1 past herds of grazing cattle1 and at noon were again at ,idlewild1 resting our weary limbs and comforting the inner man4 ,in the afternoon ,mr4 ,aiken drove us back to his home farm1 where we again passed a very pleasant night4 ,in the morning ,i walked with him through his pineapple plantation4 ,it was a new kind of farming and fruit-growing to me4 ,i forget now how many hundred thousand plants his field contained4 ,they are set and cultivated much as cabbage is with us1 but present a strangely stiff and forbidding aspect4 ,the first cutting is when the plants are about eighteen months old1 one large solid apple from each plant4 ,the second crop is called the raggoon crop1 and yields two apples from each plant1 but smaller and less valuable than the first4 ,the field is then reset4 ,i also walked with ,mr4 ,aiken over some new land he was getting ready for pineapples4 ,it had been densely covered with lantana scrub1 and clearing it and grubbing it out had been an heroic task4 ,the lantana takes complete possession of the soil1 grows about four or five feet high1 and makes a network of roots in the soil that defies anything but a steam plow4 ,the soil is a red1 heavy clay1 and it made the farmer in me sweat to think of the expenditure of labor necessary to turn a lantana bush into a pineapple field4 ,the redness of this volcanic soil is said to be owing to the fact that the growth of vegetation brings the iron into new combinations with organic acids4 ,later in the day we visited the large ,baldwin pineapple-canning plant1 and were shown the whole process of preparing and canning the fruit1 and all but surfeited with the most melting and delicious pineapples it was ever my good luck to taste4 ,the ,hawaiian pineapple probably surpasses all others in tenderness and lusciousness1 and it loses scarcely any of these qualities in the cans4 ,ripened in the field1 where it grew on the flanks of great ,haleakala1 and eaten out of hand1 it is a dream of tropic lusciousness4 ,the canning is done by an elaborate system of machinery managed by ,japanese men and women1 the naked hand never coming in contact with the peeled fruit1 but protected from it by long1 thin rubber gloves4 ,there ought to be a great future for this industry1 when ,eastern consumers really find out the superior quality of the ,hawaiian product4 ,from ,mr4 ,aiken's house one has a view of the great wall of mountains that form the western and older--older geologically--end of the island1 in which lies the famous ,iao ,valley1 which ,i have already described4 ,we judge1 from the much deeper marks of rain erosion1 that this end of the island is vastly older than the butt end upon which ,haleakala is situated4 ,haleakala is eroded comparatively little4 ,on all its huge northern slope there is only one considerable gash or gully1 and this is probably not many thousand years old2 but the northwestern end of the island is worn and carved in the most striking manner4 ,looking at it that morning1 ,i compared it to my extended1 relaxed hand1 the northern end being gashed and grooved like the sunken spaces between the fingers1 while the southwest end1 not more than ten miles distant1 was only slightly grooved and more like the solid wrist and back hand4 ,all the rains brought by the northeast trades fall upon the northeast end of the islands4 ,the mountain-peaks on the end hold the clouds and strip them dry1 so that little or no rain falls upon the south and southwest sides4 ,this is true of all the islands4 ,one end of each is arid and barren1 while the other is wet and verdant4 ,one of the smaller islands1 ,kahoolawe1 ,i believe1 dominated by ,maui on the northeast1 is said to be drying up and blowing away by inches4 ,what a spell the mountains do lay upon the clouds everywhere1--the robber mountains1--in these islands exacting the last drop of water of all the ocean-born vapors that pass over them6 ,on the northeast side of the ,lahaina district there are valleys four or five thousand feet deep2 on the southwest side there are no valleys worth mentioning4 ,the difference in this respect was forcibly brought home to me when1 later in the day1 we made an automobile trip from ,wailuku to ,lahaina on the southwest side2 in going less than twenty miles we quickly passed from the region of verdant valleys and mountain-slopes into a hard1 raw1 barren1 unweathered region1 where there was no soil1 and where the rocks looked as crude and forbidding as they must have looked the day they flowed out from the depths as molten lava4 ,in outline the island of ,maui suggests a truncated statue1 the west end representing the head1 very old and wrinkled and grooved by time and trouble1 the peninsula the well-proportioned neck1 and broad-breasted ,haleakala forming the trunk4 ,what a torso it is1 fire-born and basking there in the tropic seas6 ,the oldest island of the ,hawaiian group is ,kauai1 called the garden island1 because it has much the deepest and most fertile soil4 ,it shows much more evidence of erosion than any of the other islands4 ,the next in point of erosion1 and hence in point of age1 is ,oahu1 upon which ,honolulu is situated4 ,then come ,molokai and ,maui1 the two ends of the latter being of vastly unequal age4 ,hawaii1 the largest of them all1 nearly as large as ,connecticut1 is the youngest of the group1 and shows the least effects of erosion4 ,when it is as old as ,kauai is now1 its two huge mountains1 ,mauna ,loa and ,mauna ,kea1 will probably be cut up into deep valleys and canons and sharp1 high ridges1 as are the mountains of ,kauai and ,oahu4 ,the lapse of time required to bring about such a result is beyond all human calculation4 ,whether one million or two millions of years would do it1 who knows8 ,those warm tropical rains1 aided by the rank vegetation which they beget and support1 dissolve the volcanic rock slowly but inevitably4 ,through the courtesy of ,mr4 ,lowell1 the superintendent1 we had that day the pleasure of going through a large sugar-making plant at ,paia--one that turns out nearly fifty thousand tons of sugar a year4 ,we saw the cane come in from the fields in one end of the plant1 and the dry1 warm product being put up in bags at the other4 ,all the latest devices and machinery for sugar-making we saw here in full operation1 affording a contrast to the crude and wasteful methods ,i had seen in the island of ,jamaica a few years before4 ,in the afternoon we availed ourselves of the five or six miles of narrow-gauge railway1 the only one on the island1 to go from ,paia to ,wailuku1 where we were met by another automobile1 which hurried us to ,lahaina1 where we were to meet the steamer that was to convey us to ,hilo1 on ,hawaii4 ,i say hurried1 but before the journey of twenty-odd miles was half over1 we realized the truth of the old adage1 ,the more haste1 the less speed4 ,the automobile began to sulk and finally could be persuaded to go only on the low gear1 and to rattle along at about the speed of a man with a horse and buggy4 ,we reached ,lahaina just as the boat was entering the harbor4 ,the next morning we found ourselves steaming along past the high1 verdant shores of ,hawaii4 ,for fifty miles or more the land presented one unbroken expanse of sugar-cane1 suggesting fields of some gigantic yellow-green grass4 ,at ,hilo the sun was shining between brief showers1 and the air was warm and muggy4 ,it is said to rain there every day in the year1 and the lush vegetation made the statement seem credible4 ,judge ,andrews met us at the steamer1 and took us to his home for rest and dinner1 and was extremely kind to us4 ,in the mid-afternoon we took the train for ,glenwood1 thirty miles on our way to the volcano of ,kilauea4 ,a large part of the way the road leads through sugar plantations1 newly carved out of the koa and tree-fern wilderness that originally covered the volcanic soil4 ,clusters of the little houses of the ,japanese laborers1 perched high above the ground on slender posts1 were passed here and there4 ,everywhere we saw wooden aqueducts1 or flumes1 winding around the contours of the hills and across the little valleys1 often on high trestle-work1 and partly filled with clear1 swift-running water1 in which the sugar-cane was transported to the mills4 ,at ,glenwood stages meet the tourists and convey them over a fairly good road that winds through the tree-fern forests to the ,volcano ,house1 ten miles away4 ,the beauty of that fern-lined forest1 the long1 stately plumes of the gigantic ferns meeting the eye everywhere1 ,i shall not soon forget4 ,i saw what appeared to be a large1 showy red raspberry growing by the roadside1 but ,i did not find it at all tempting to the taste4 ,it was dark when we reached the ,volcano ,house1 and we saw off to the left a red glow upon the fog-clouds1 like the reflected light from a burning barn or house in the country1 and inferred at once that it came from the volcano1 which it did4 ,from my window that night1 as ,i lay in bed1 ,i could see this same angry glow upon the clouds4 ,the smell of sulphur was in the air about the hotel1 and very hot steam was issuing from cracks in the rocks4 ,a party of tourists on horseback1 in the spirit of true ,american hurry1 visited the volcano that night1 but we chose to wait until the morrow4 ,the next morning the great crater of ,kilauea was filled with fog1 but it lifted1 and the sun shone before noon4 ,we passed a pleasant forenoon strolling along the tree-fringed brink1 looking down eight or nine hundred feet upon its black lava floor1 and plucking ohelo berries1 which grew there abundantly1 a kind of large1 red huckleberry that one could eat out of hand1 but that one could not get excited over4 ,they were better in a pie than in the hand4 ,their name seemed to go well with the suggestion of the scenes amid which they grew4 ,kilauea is a round extinct crater about three miles across and seven or eight hundred feet deep4 ,it has been the scene of terrific explosions in past ages1 but it has now dwindled to the small active crater of ,halemaumau1 which is sunk near the middle of it like a huge pot1 two hundred or more feet deep and a thousand feet across4 ,in the mid-afternoon a party of eight or ten of us on horseback set out to visit the volcano4 ,the trail led down the broken and shelving side of the crater1 amid trees and bushes1 till it struck the floor of lava at the bottom4 ,in going down ,i was aware all the time of a beautiful bird-song off on my left1 a song almost as sweet as that of our hermit thrush1 but of an entirely different order4 ,i think it was the song of one of the honey-suckers1 a red bird with black wings that in flight looked like our scarlet tanager4 ,our course took us out over the cracked and contorted lava-beds1 where no green thing was growing4 ,the forms of the lava-flow suggested mailed and writhing dragons1 with horrid1 gaping mouths and vicious claws4 ,the lava crunched beneath the horses' feet like shelly and brittle ice4 ,at one point we passed over a wide1 jagged crack on a bridge4 ,as we neared the crater1 the rocks grew warm1 and sulphur and other fumes streaked the air4 ,when a half-mile from the crater we dismounted1 and1 leaving our horses in charge of the guide1 proceeded on foot over the cracked and heated lava rocks toward the brink of this veritable devil's caldron4 ,the sulphur fumes are so suffocating that it can be approached only on the windward side4 ,the first glance into that fearful pit is all that your imagination can picture it4 ,you look upon the traditional lake of brimstone and fire1 and if devils were to appear skipping about over the surface with pitchforks1 turning their victims as the cook turns her frying crullers in the sputtering fat1 it would not much astonish you4 ,this liquid is rather thick and viscid1 but it is boiling furiously4 ,great masses of it are thrown up forty or fifty feet1 and fall with a crash like that of the surf upon the shore4 ,livid jets are thrown up many feet high against the sides and drip back1 cooling quickly as the lava descends4 ,we sat or stood upon the brink1 at times almost letting our feet hang over the sides1 and shielding our faces from the intense heat with paper masks and veils4 ,it is probably the only place in the world where you can come face to face with the heart of an active volcano4 ,there are no veils of vapor to hide it from you4 ,it appears easy enough to cast a stone into the midst of it1 but none of us could quite do it4 ,the mass of boiling lava is said to be about one and one half acres in extent4 ,its surface is covered with large masses of floating crust1 black and smooth1 like leather or roofing-paper1 and between these masses1 or islands1 the molten lava shows in broad1 vivid lines4 ,it is never quiet4 ,when not actually boiling1 there is a slow circulatory movement1 and the great flakes of black crust1 suggesting scum1 drift across from one end to the other and are drawn under the rocks4 ,at one moment only this movement is apparent1 then suddenly the mass begins to boil furiously all over the surface1 and you hear dimly the sound of the bursting bubbles and the crash of the falling lava4 ,when this takes place1 the black floating masses are broken up and scattered as they are in boiling maple-syrup1 but they quickly reunite1 and are carried on by the current as before4 ,looking upon this scene with the thought of the traditional lake of fire and brimstone of our forefathers in mind1 you would say that these black1 filthy-looking masses floating about on the surface were the accumulation of all the bad stuff that had been fried out of the poor sinners since hell was invented4 ,how much wickedness and uncharity and evil thought it would represent6 ,if the poor victims were clarified and made purer by the process1 then it would seem worth while4 ,at the ,volcano ,house they keep a book in which tourists write down their impressions of the volcano4 ,a distinguished statesman had been there a few days before us1 and had written a long account of his impressions1 closing with this oratorical sentence3 ,no pen1 however gifted1 can describe1 no brush1 however brilliant1 can portray1 the wonders we have been permitted to behold4 ,i could not refrain from writing under it1 ,i have seen the orthodox hell1 and it's the real thing4 ,that huge kettle of molten metal1 mantling and bubbling1 how it is impressed upon my memory6 ,it is a vestige of the ancient cosmic fire that once wrapped the whole globe in its embrace4 ,it had a kind of brutal fascination4 ,one could not take one's eyes from it4 ,that network of broad1 jagged1 fiery lines defining those black1 smooth masses1 or islands1 of floating matter told of a side of nature we had never before seen4 ,we lingered there on the brink of the fearful spectacle till night came on1 and the sides of the mighty caldron1 and the fog-clouds above it1 glowed in the infernal light4 ,not so white as the metal pouring from a blast furnace1 not so hot1 a more sullen red1 but welling up from the central primordial fires of the earth4 ,this great pot has boiled over many times in the recent past1 as the lava-beds we traveled over testify1 and it will probably boil over again4 ,it has been unusually active these last few years4 ,about nine o'clock we rode back1 facing a cold1 driving mist1 the back of each rider1 protected by the shining yellow slickers1 glowing to the one behind him1 in the volcano's light1 till we were a mile or more away4 ,the next morning came clear1 and the sight of the mighty slope of ,mauna ,loa1 lit up by the rising sun1 was a grand spectacle4 ,it looked gentle and easy of ascent1 wooded here and there1 and here and there showing broad1 black streaks from the lava overflows at the summit in recent years2 but remembering that it was nearly four thousand feet higher than ,haleakala1 ,i had no desire to climb it4 ,this mountain and its companion1 ,mauna ,kea1 are the highest island mountains in the world4 ,the stage rolled us back through the fern forest to the railway station and thence on to ,hilo again1 where in good time1 in the afternoon1 we went aboard the steamer2 and the next morning we were again in the harbor of ,honolulu1 glad we had made the inter-island trip1 and above all glad that we had seen ,haleakala4 ,,vi ,,the ,,old ,,ice-,,flood ,i ,he was a bold man who first conceived the idea of the great continental ice-sheet which in ,pleistocene times covered most of the northern part of the continent1 and played such a part in shaping the land as we know it4 ,that bold man was ,agassiz1 who1 however1 was not bold enough to accept the theory of evolution as propounded by ,darwin4 ,the idea of the great glacier did not conflict with ,agassiz's religious predilections1 and the theory of evolution did4 ,it was a bold generalization1 this of the continental ice-sheet1 one of the master-strokes of the scientific imagination4 ,it was about the year #ahdj that ,agassiz1 fresh from the glaciers of the ,alps1 went to ,scotland looking for the tracks of the old glaciers1 and he found them at once when he landed near ,glasgow4 ,we can all find them now on almost every walk we take to the fields and hills2 but until our eyes are opened1 how blind we are to them6 ,we are like people who camp on the trail of an army and never suspect an army has passed1 though the ruts made by their wagons and artillery and the ruins of their intrenchments are everywhere visible4 ,when ,i was a boy on the farm we never asked ourselves questions about the stones and rocks that encumbered the land--whence they came1 or what the agency was that brought them4 ,the farmers believed the land was created just as we saw it--stones1 boulders1 soil1 gravel-pits1 hills1 mountains1 and all--and doubtless wished in their hearts that the ,creator had not been so particular about the rocks and stones1 or had made an exception in favor of their own fields4 ,rocks and stones were good for fences and foundations1 and for various other uses1 but they were a great hindrance to the cultivation of the soil4 ,i once heard a farmer boast that he had very strong land--it had to be strong to hold up such a crop of rocks and stones4 ,when the ,eastern farmer moved west into the prairie states1 or south into the cotton-growing states1 he probably never asked himself why the ,creator had not cumbered the ground with rocks and stones in those sections1 as he had in ,new ,york and ,new ,england4 ,south of the line that runs irregularly through middle ,new ,jersey1 ,pennsylvania1 ,ohio1 ,indiana1 ,illinois1 ,iowa1 and so on to the ,rockies1 he will find few loose stones scattered over the soil1 no detached boulders sitting upon the surface1 no hills or mounds of gravel and sand1 no clay banks packed full of rounded stones1 little and big1 no rocky floors under the soil which look as if they had been dressed down by a huge but dulled and nicked jack-plane4 ,the reason is that the line ,i have indicated marks the limit of the old ice-sheet which more than a hundred thousand years ago covered all the northern part of the continent to a depth of from two to four thousand feet1 and was the chief instrument in rounding off mountain-tops1 scattering rock-fragments1 little and big1 over our landscapes1 grinding down and breaking off the protruding rock strata1 building up our banks of mingled clay and stone1 changing the courses of streams and rivers1 deepening and widening our valleys1 transplanting boulders of one formation for hundreds of miles1 and dropping them upon the surface of another formation4 ,when it began to melt and retreat1 it was the chief agent in building up our river terraces1 and our long1 low1 rounded hills of sand and gravel and clay1 called kames and drumlins4 ,in many of our valleys its flowing waters left long1 low ridges1 gentle in outline1 made up entirely of sand and gravel1 or of clay4 ,in other places it left moraines made up of earth1 gravel1 and rock-fragments that make a very rough streak through the farmer's land4 ,all those high1 level terraces along the ,hudson1 such as that upon which ,west ,point stands1 were the work of the old ice-sheet that once filled the river valley4 ,the melting ice was also the chief agent in building up the enormous clay-banks that are found along the shores of the ,hudson4 ,the clay formed in very still waters1 the sand and gravel in more active waters4 ,this great ice-sheet not only covered our northern farms with rocks and stones1 and packed the soil with rounded boulders1 but it also carried away much of the rock decay that goes to the making of the soil1 so that the soil is of greater depth in the non-glaciated than in the glaciated areas of the country4 ,the ,new-,englander or ,new-,yorker in traveling in the ,southern ,states may note the enormous depth of soil as revealed by the water-courses or railroad cuts4 ,the ice-sheet was a huge mill that ground up the rocks in the ,north probably as fast or faster than the rains and the rank vegetation reduced them in the ,south1 but the floods of water which it finally let loose carried a great deal of the rock-waste into the sea4 ,the glacier milk which colors the streams that flow from beneath it finally settles and makes clay4 ,off the great ,malaspina ,glacier in ,alaska the ocean is tinged by the glacier milk for nearly fifty miles from the shores4 ,very few country people1 even among the educated1 are ready to believe that this enormous ice-sheet ever existed4 ,to make them believe that it is just as much a fact in the physical history of this continent as the war of the ,revolution is a fact in our political history is no easy matter4 ,it certainly is a crushing proposition4 ,it so vastly transcends all our experience with ice and snow1 or the experience of the race since the dawn of history1 that only the scientific imagination and faith are equal to it4 ,the belief in it rests on indubitable evidence1 its record is written all over our landscape1 but it requires1 ,i say1 the scientific imagination to put the facts together and make a continuous history4 ,three or four hundred feet above my cabin1 five or six hundred feet above tidewater1 there is a bold rocky point upon which the old ice-sheet bore heavily4 ,it has rubbed it down and flattened it as a hand passing over a knob of soft putty might do4 ,the great hand in this case moved from the northeast and must have fairly made this rocky prominence groan with its weight4 ,the surface1 scratched and grooved and planed by the ice1 has weathered away1 leaving the rock quite rough2 its general outlines alone tell the tale of the battle with the ice4 ,but on the east side a huge mass of rock1 that had been planed and gouged by the glacier1 was detached and toppled over1 turning topsy-turvy before it had weathered1 and it lies in such a position1 upheld by two rock fragments1 that its glaciated surface1 though protected from the weather1 is clearly visible4 ,you step down two or three feet between the two upholding rocks and are at the entrance of a little cave1 and there before you1 standing at an angle of thirty or forty degrees1 is this rocky page written over with the history of the passing of the great ice plane4 ,the surface exposed is ten or twelve feet long1 and four or five feet wide1 and it is as straight and smooth1 and the scratches and grooves are as sharp and distinct as if made yesterday4 ,i often take the college girls there who come to visit me1 to show them1 as ,i tell them1 where the old ice gods left their signatures4 ,the girls take turns in stooping down and looking along the under surface of the rock1 and feeling it with their hands1 and marveling4 ,they have read or heard about these things1 but the reading or hearing made little impression upon their minds4 ,when they see a concrete example1 and feel it with their hands1 they are impressed4 ,then when ,i tell them that there is not a shadow of a doubt but that the ice was at one time two or three thousand feet thick above the place where they now stand1 and that it bore down upon ,julian's ,rock with a weight of thousands of tons to the square foot1 that it filled all the ,hudson ,river ,valley1 and covered the landscape for thousands of miles around them1 riding over the tops of the ,catskills and of the ,adirondacks1 and wearing them down and carrying fragments of rock torn from them hundreds of miles to the south and southwest1--when ,i have told them all of this1 ,i have usually given them a mouthful too big for them to masticate or swallow4 ,as a sort of abstract proposition contained in books1 or heard in the classroom1 they do not mind it1 but as an actual fact1 here in the light of common day on the hill above ,slabsides1 with the waters of the ,hudson glistening below1 and the trees rustling in the wind all about us1 that is quite another matter4 ,it sounds like a dream or a fable4 ,many of the processes that have made our globe what we see it have been so slow and on such a scale that they are quite beyond our horizon--beyond the reach of our mental apprehension4 ,the mind has to approach them slowly and tentatively1 and become familiar with the idea of them1 before it can give any sort of rational assent to them4 ,it has taken the geologist a long time to work out and clear up and confirm this conception of the great continental glacier which in ,pleistocene times covered so large a part of the northern hemisphere4 ,it is now as well established as any event in the remote past well can be4 ,in ,alaska1 and in the ,swiss ,alps1 one may see the ice doing exactly what the ,pleistocene ice-sheet did over this country4 ,,ii ,the other day in passing a farmer's house ,i saw where he had placed a huge1 roundish boulder1 nearly as high as a man's head1 by the roadside and had cut upon it his own name and date1 and that of his father before him1 and that of the first settler upon the farm1 in the latter part of the eighteenth century4 ,it was an interesting monument4 ,i learned that the rock had been found in the bed of a small creek near by1 and that the farmer had given a hundred dollars to have it moved to its place in front of his house4 ,had ,i seen the old farmer ,i am sure ,i could have added to his interest and pride in his monument by telling him that it was ,adiron-dack gneiss1 and had been brought from that region on the back1 or in the maw1 of a glacier1 many tens of thousands of years ago4 ,but it is highly probable that1 were he an uneducated man1 he would have treated my statement with contempt or incredulity4 ,education does at least this for a man3 it opens his mind and makes him less skeptical about things not dreamed of in his philosophy4 ,this boulder had been rolled and worn in its long1 slow ride till it was nearly round4 ,i have a much smaller boulder1 probably from the same quarry1 which ,i planted at the head of my garden for a seat when the hoe gets tired4 ,when it was dropped here on the land that is now my field1 the bed and valley of the ,hudson were occupied by the old glacier which1 during its decline and recession1 built up the terraces opposite me 7where now stands a multimillionaire's copy of an ,italian palace71 and which added to and uncovered the river slopes where now my own vineyards are planted4 ,the flowing or the creeping of this old ice-sheet1 so that it could transport large boulders hundreds of miles1 is one of the most remarkable things about it3 as slow or slower than the hour-hand of the clock1 yet an actual progression1 carrying it1 in the course of thousands of years1 from its apex in ,labrador well down into ,new ,jersey1 where its terminal moraine is still clearly traceable4 ,a river of ice1 under the right conditions1 flows as literally as a river of water1 fastest in the middle1 and slowest along its margins where the friction is greatest4 ,the old ice-sheet1 or ice sea1 flowed around and over mountains as a river flows around and over rocks4 ,where a mountain rose above the glacier1 the ice divided and flowed round it1 and reunited again beyond it4 ,one may see all this in ,alaska at the present time4 ,water1 of course1 flows because of its own pressure2 so does ice1 only the pressure has to be vastly greater4 ,a drop of water on the table does not flow1 but1 pile it high enough1 and it will4 ,the old ice sea flowed mainly south1 not because it was downhill in that direction1 but because the accumulation of ice and snow at the ,north was so great4 ,if through any climatic changes1 the snowfall were ever again to be so great that more snow should fall in winter than could melt in summer1 after the lapse of thousands of years1 we should have another ice age4 ,,vii ,,the ,,friendly ,,soil ,i never tire of contemplating the soil itself1 the mantle rock1 as the geologist calls it4 ,it clothes the rocky framework of the earth as the flesh clothes our bones4 ,it is the seat of the vitality of the globe1 the youngest part1 the growing1 changing part4 ,out of it we came1 and to it we return4 ,it is literally our mother1 as the sun is our father4 ,the soil6--the residuum of the rocks1 the ashes of the mountains4 ,we know what a vast stretch of time has gone to the making of it2 that it has been baked and boiled and frozen and thawed1 acted upon by sun and star and wind and rain2 mixed and remixed and kneaded and added to1 as the housewife kneads and moulds her bread2 that it has lain under the seas in the stratified rocks for incalculable ages2 that chemical and mechanical and vital forces have all had a hand in its preparation2 that the vast cycles of animal and vegetable life of the foreworld have contributed to its fertility2 that the life of the sea1 and the monsters of the earth1 and the dragons of the air1 have left their ashes here1 so that when ,i stir it with my hoe1 or turn it with my spade1 ,i know ,i am stirring or turning the meal of a veritable grist of the gods4 ,from its primal source in the ,archaean rock1 up through all the vast series of sedimentary rocks to our own time1 what vicissitudes and transformations it has passed through2 how many times it has died1 so to speak1 and been reborn from the rocks2 how many times the winds and the rains have transported it1 and infused invisible1 life-giving gases into it2 how many of the elements have throbbed with life1 climbed and bloomed in trees1 walked or flown or swam in animals1 or slumbered for thousands upon thousands of years beneath the great ice-sheet of ,pleistocene time6 ,a handful of the soil by your door is probably the most composite thing you can find in a day's journey4 ,it may be an epitome of a whole geological formation1 or of two or more of them4 ,if it happens to be made up of decomposed limestone1 sandstone1 slate1 and basalt rock1 think what a history would be condensed in it6 ,our lawns are made up of ashes from the funeral pyre of mountains1 of dust from the tombs of geologic ages4 ,what masses of rock does this sandbank represent6 what an enormous grist in the great glacier mill do these layers of clay stand for6 ,two feet of soil probably represent a hundred feet or more of rock4 ,strictly speaking1 the soil is the insoluble parts of the ground-up and decomposed rocks1 after the rains and the winds have done their work and taken their toll of the grist they have ground4 ,sometimes these mills take the whole grist and leave the rocks bare2 but usually they leave a residuum in which life strikes its roots4 ,we do not see all that the waters take from the soil4 ,they have invisible pockets in which they carry away all the more soluble parts1 such as lime1 soda1 potash1 silica1 magnesia1 and others1 and leave for the land the more insoluble parts4 ,these1 too1 in times of flood they carry away in suspension1 in the shape of sand1 silt1 mud1 gravel1 and the like4 ,when the waters really digest the rocks1 they hold the various minerals in solution1 and run limpid and dancing to the sea2 when they have an undigested burden1 they run angry and turbid4 ,it is estimated that the ,hudson ,river deposits in the sea each year four hundred and forty thousand tons of mineral matter in solution which it has taken from the land1 and the ,mississippi one hundred and twelve million tons4 ,each carries away about four times as much in suspension4 ,the digestive or chemical power of water1 then1 is only about one fourth as great as its mechanical power4 ,between the two the land is made to pay heavy toll to the sea4 ,but in time1 in geologic time1 it all comes back4 ,the suspended particles are dropped and go to make up the sedimentary rocks1 while the solutes help cement the material of these rocks together1 and also nourish the sea life from which limestone and other organic rocks are made4 ,when these rocks are again lifted to the surface and disintegrated into soil1 then the debt of the sea to the land is paid4 ,this process1 this cycle of soil loss and soil growth1 has gone on through all time1 and must continue as long as the rain continues to fall1 or as long as the sea continues to send its tax-gatherers to the land4 ,in this great cycle of give and take of the elements1 the affairs of men cut but a momentary figure2 how puny they are1 how transient6 ,how the great changes1 which in time amount to revolutions1 go on over our heads and under our feet1 and we rarely heed them1 and are powerless to stay them6 ,a summer shower carries the soil of my side-hill1 which is mainly disintegrated ,silurian rock and shale1 into the river1 and some millions of years hence1 when it has become stratified rock1 and been lifted up into the light of day1 some other1 and1 ,i trust1 wiser husbandman1 will be gathering his harvest from it1 and be worried over the downpour that robs him of it4 ,the farmer's worry is bound to come back with the soil1 and be passed along with it4 ,,viii ,,primal ,,energies ,how puny and meagre is the utmost power man can put forth1 even by the aid of all his mechanical appliances1 when compared with the primal earth forces6 ,think1 or try to think1 of the force of pressure that causes the rock-strata to buckle or crumple or bend--layers of rock1 thousands of feet thick1 made to fold and bend like the leaves of a book--vast mountain-chains flexed and foreshortened1 or ruptured and faulted as the bending of one's body wrinkles or rips one's clothes4 ,think of the over-thrusts and the folding and shearing of the earth's crust4 ,the shrinking of the earth squeezes the rocks to an extent quite beyond our power of conception4 ,so overpowering has been the horizontal movement in some cases1 says ,dana1 that masses of rock thousands of feet in thickness have been buckled up and sheared1 or1 simply yielding to pressure1 have sheared without folding1 and been thrust forward for miles along a gently inclined plane4 ,these great reversed faults are termed over-thrusts or thrust-planes4 ,sometimes such thrust-planes occur singly1 at other times the rocks have yielded again and again1 great sheets having been sliced off successively1 and driven forward one upon the other4 ,in northern ,montana there is an over-thrust of the ,cambrian rocks upon the late ,cretaceous1 of seven or eight miles1 carrying with it what is now called ,chief ,mountain1 which has been carved out of the extreme end of the over-thrust4 ,the contemplation of such things gives one a sense of power in ,nature beyond anything else ,i know of4 ,the shrinking of the globe as a whole makes its rocky garment too big for it1 and this titanic wrinkling and folding results4 ,when the strata snap asunder under the strain1 we have earthquakes4 ,during the recent ,san ,francisco earthquake1 ,mount ,tamalpais1 across the bay1 and all the neighboring heights1 were permanently shifted eight or ten feet4 ,the sides of the mountain1 it is said1 undulated like a curtain4 ,and this shaking and twitching of the great rocky skin of the earth was vastly less1 in proportion to the size of the globe1 than the twitching and trembling of the skin of a horse when he would shake off the flies1 in comparison with the animal's body4 ,we see another exhibition of the magnitude of the earth's forces in what the geologist calls a laccolite--a great cave or cistern deep beneath the surface of stratified rock filled with hardened lava4 ,the lava is forced up from an unknown depth under such pressure that1 not finding an outlet at the surface1 the rock strata1 hundreds or thousands of feet thick1 are lifted up and arched like so much paper1 and in the cavity thus formed the pent-up molten lava finds relief4 ,these lava cisterns or pockets are sometimes uncovered by the process of erosion4 ,the ,henry ,mountains in ,utah are all laccolites4 ,one of them1 ,mount ,hillers1 has a volume of about ten cubic miles4 ,much of the overarching sedimentary strata still covers it4 ,geologists read the evidence of a similar formation called a sill on the west side of the ,hudson in ,new ,jersey1 forming the ,palisades4 ,the lava worked like a giant mole up through and then beneath the ,triassic sandstone1 lifting the strata up and arching them over a large area4 ,during the millions of years that have elapsed since that time1 the layers of superincumbent sandstone have been worn away so that now one sees a wide1 smooth1 gentle slope of basaltic rock covered by a very thin coat of soil4 ,as one goes by on the train1 one sees where the workmen of a stone-crushing plant have cut into the slope and uncovered the junction of the two kinds of rock1 one born of water1 and one born of fire4 ,the igneous rock sits squarely upon the level sandstone1 like a row of upright books standing upon a shelf4 ,i never pass the place but that ,i want to stop the train and get out and have a close look at the precise spot where this son of ,vulcan sat down so heavily and so hot upon his brother of the sedimentary deposits4 ,probably no two chapters of the earth's history differ more than those of the two sides of the ,hudson at ,new ,york4 ,there is a great break here--a leap from ,archaean times on the east side to ,mesozoic times on the west4 ,the east side is millions of years the older4 ,here is the original ,plutonic or ,azoic rock which apparently has never been under the sea since it was first thrust up out of the fiery depths4 ,the west shore1 including the ,palisades1 belongs to a much later geologic era4 ,the original granite here is buried under vast deposits of sedimentary rock of the ,triassic age--the age of the giant reptiles1 the remains of one of which has recently been found embedded in this sandstone1 near the river's edge4 ,as the traveler's eye follows along the even1 almost level line of this escarpment of the ,palisades1 let it re-create for him the strata of the old ,triassic sandstone that were millions of years ago piled high upon it1--how high can only be conjectured1--but which have been removed grain by grain under the eroding power of the forces of air and water that now seem to caress the huge wall so gently4 ,ah6 geologic ,time1 what can it not do8 what has it not done8 ,the old sill of ,vulcan now presents a nearly vertical front to the ,hudson1 forming the ,palisades1 showing that some leaves of the earth's history here are missing1 buried probably beneath the waters of the river4 ,there is evidently a line of fault here1 and the west side has been lifted up out of the old ,mesozoic seas1 probably in the convulsions that poured out the lava of the trap rock4 ,,ix ,,scientific ,,faith ,i find myself accepting certain things on the authority of science which so far transcend my experience1 and the experience of the race and all the knowledge of the world1 in fact which come so near being unthinkable1 that ,i call my acceptance of them an act of scientific faith4 ,one's reason may be convinced and yet the heart refuse to believe4 ,it is not so much a question of evidence as a question of capacity to receive evidence of an unusual kind4 ,one of the conclusions of science which ,i feel forced to accept1 and yet which ,i find very hard work to believe1 is that of the animal origin of man4 ,i suppose my logical faculties are convinced1 but what is that in me that is baffled1 and that hesitates and demurs8 ,the idea of the origin of man from some lower form requires such a plunge into the past1 and such a faith in the transforming power of the biological laws1 and in the divinity that lurks in the soil underfoot and streams from the orbs overhead1 that the ordinary mind is quite unequal to the task4 ,for the book of ,genesis of the old ,bible we have substituted the book of genesis of the rocky scripture of the globe--a book torn and mutilated1 that has been through fire and flood and earthquake shock1 that has been in the sea and on the heights1 and that only the palaeontologist can read or decipher correctly1 but which is a veritable bible of the succession of life on the earth4 ,the events of the days of creation are recorded here1 but they are days of such length that they are to be reckoned only in millions of years4 ,the evolution of the horse1 according to the best and latest research1 from the eohippus of ,eocene times--a small mammal no larger than the fox--to the proud and fleet creature that we prize to-day1 occupied four or five millions of years4 ,think of that first known progenitor of the horse as never dying1 but living on through the geological ages and being slowly1 oh1 so slowly1 modified by its environment1 changing its teeth1 its hoofs1 enlarging its body1 lengthening its limbs1 and so on1 till it becomes the horse we know to-day4 ,in accepting the theory of the animal origin of man we have got to follow man back1 not only till we find him a naked savage like the ,fuegians as ,darwin describes them1--naked1 bedaubed with paint1 with matted hair and looks wild and distrustful1--but we cannot stop there1 we must follow him back till he becomes a troglodyte1 a cave-dweller1 contending with the cave bear1 the cave lion1 and the hyena for the possession of this rude shelter2 back still1 till we find him in trees living like the anthropoid apes2 then back to the earth again to some four-footed creature1 probably of the marsupial kind2 still the trail leads downward and ever downward1 till we lose it in that maze of marine forms that swarm in the ,palaeozoic seas1 or until the imagination is baffled and refuses to proceed4 ,it certainly is a hard proposition1 and it puts one upon his mettle to accept it4 ,should we not find equal difficulty in believing the life-history of each one of us1--the start in the germ1 then the vague suggestion of fish1 and frog1 and reptile1 in our foetal life1--were it not a matter of daily experience8 ,let it be granted that the race of man was born as literally out of the animal forms below him as the child is born out of these vague1 prenatal animal forms in its mother's womb4 ,yet the former fact so far transcends our experience1 and even our power of imagination1 that we can receive it only by an act of scientific faith1 as our fathers received the dogmas of the ,church by an act of religious faith4 ,i confess that ,i find it hard work to get on intimate terms with evolution1 familiarize my mind with it1 and make it thinkable4 ,the gulf that separates man from the orders below him is so impassable1 his intelligence is so radically different from theirs1 and his progress so enormous1 while they have stood still1 that believing it is like believing a miracle4 ,that the apparently blind groping and experimentation which mark the course of evolution as revealed by palaeontology--the waste1 the delay1 the vicissitudes1 the hit-and-miss method--should have finally resulted in this supreme animal1 man1 puts our scientific faith to the test4 ,in the light of evolution how the halo with which we have surrounded our origin vanishes6 ,man has from the earliest period believed himself of divine origin1 and by the divine he has meant something far removed from this earth and all its laws and processes1 something quite transcending the mundane forces4 ,he has invented or dreamed myths and legends to throw the halo of the exceptional1 the far removed1 the mystical1 or the divine around his origin4 ,he has spurned the clod with his foot2 he has denied all kinship with bird and beast around him1 and looked to the heavens above for the sources of his life4 ,and then unpitying science comes along and tells him that he is under the same law as the life he treads under foot1 and that that law is adequate to transform the worm into the man2 that he1 too1 has groveled in the dust1 or wallowed in the slime1 or fought and reveled1 a reptile among reptiles2 that the heavens above him1 to which he turns with such awe and reverence1 or such dread and foreboding1 are the source of his life and hope in no other sense than they are the source of the life and hope of all other creatures4 ,but this is the way of science2 it enhances the value or significance of everything about us that we are wont to treat as cheap or vulgar1 and it discounts the value of the things far off upon which we have laid such stress4 ,it ties us to the earth1 it calls in the messengers we send forth into the unknown2 it makes the astonishing revelation-- revolutionary revelation1 ,i may say--that the earth is embosomed in the infinite heavens the same as the stars that shine above us1 that the creative energy is working now and here underfoot1 the same as in the ages of myth and miracle2 in other words1 that ,god is really immanent in his universe1 and inseparable from it2 that we have been in heaven and under the celestial laws all our lives1 and knew it not4 ,science thus kills religion1 poetry1 and romance only so far as it dispels our illusions and brings us back from the imaginary to the common and the near at hand4 ,it discounts heaven in favor of earth4 ,it should make us more at home in the world1 and more conscious of the daily beauty and wonders that surround us1 and1 if it does not1 the trouble is probably in the ages of myth and fable that lie behind us and that have left their intoxicating influence in our blood4 ,we are willing to be made out of the dust of the earth when ,god makes us1 the ,god we have made ourselves out of our dreams and fears and aspirations1 but we are not willing to be made out of the dust of the earth when the god called ,evolution makes us4 ,an impersonal law or process we cannot revere or fear or worship or exalt2 we can only study it and put it to the test4 ,we can love or worship only personality4 ,this is why science puts such a damper upon us2 it banishes personality1 as we have heretofore conceived it1 from the universe4 ,the thunder is no longer the voice of ,god1 the earth is no longer his footstool4 ,personality appears only in man2 the universe is not inhuman1 but unhuman4 ,it is this discovery that we recoil from1 and blame science for2 and until1 in the process of time1 we shall have adjusted our minds1 and especially our emotions1 to it1 mankind will still recoil from it4 ,we love our dreams1 our imaginings1 as we love a prospect before our houses4 ,we love an outlook into the ideal1 the unknown in our lives4 ,but we love also to feel the solid ground beneath our feet4 ,whether life loses in charm as we lose our illusions1 and whether it gains in power and satisfaction as we more and more reach solid ground in our beliefs1 is a question that will be answered differently by different persons4 ,we have vastly more solid knowledge about the universe amid which we live than had our fathers1 but are we happier1 better1 stronger8 ,may it not be said that our lives consist1 not in the number of things we know any more than in the number of things we possess1 but in the things we love1 in the depth and sincerity of our emotions1 and in the elevation of our aspirations8 ,has not science also enlarged the sphere of our love1 and given us new grounds for wonder and admiration8 ,it certainly has1 but it as certainly has put a damper upon our awe1 our reverence1 our veneration4 ,however valuable these emotions are1 and whatever part they may have played in the development of character in the past1 they seem doomed to play less and less part in the future4 ,poetry and religion1 so called1 seem doomed to play less and less part in the life of the race in the future4 ,we shall still dream and aspire1 but we shall not tremble and worship as in the past4 ,we see about us daily transformations as stupendous as that of the evolution of man from the lower animals1 and we marvel not4 ,we see the inorganic pass into the organic1 we see iron and lime and potash and silex blush in the flowers1 sweeten in the fruit1 ripen in the grain1 crimson in the blood1 and we marvel not4 ,we see the spotless pond-lily rising and unfolding its snowy petals1 and its trembling heart of gold1 from the black slime of the pond4 ,we contemplate our own life-history as shown in our pre-natal life1 and we are not disturbed4 ,but when we stretch this process out through the geologic ages and try to see ourselves a germ1 a fish1 a reptile1 in the womb of time1 we are balked4 ,we do not see the great mother1 or the great father1 or feel the lift of the great biologic laws4 ,we are beyond our depth4 ,it is easy to believe that the baby is born of woman1 because it is a matter of daily experience1 but it is not easy to believe that man is born of the animal world below him1 and that that is born of inorganic ,nature1 because the fact is too big and tremendous4 ,what we call ,nature works in no other way2 one law is over big and little alike4 ,what ,nature does in a day typifies what she does in an eternity4 ,it is when we reach the things done on such an enormous scale of time and power and size that we are helpless4 ,the almost infinitely slow transformations that the theory of evolution demands balk us as do the size and distance of the fixed stars4 ,no observation or study of evolution on a small scale and near at hand in the familiar facts of the life about us can prepare us for it1 any more than lake and river can prepare us for the ocean1 or the modeling of miniature valleys and mountains by the rain in the clay bank can open our minds to receive the tremendous facts of the carving of the face of the continent by the same agents4 ,we do not see evolution working in one day1 or in a century1 or in many centuries4 ,neither do we catch the gods of erosion at their ,herculean tasks4 ,they always seem to be having a holiday1 or else to be merely toying with their work4 ,when we see a mound of earth or a bank of clay worn into miniature mountain-chains and canons and gulches by the rains of a season1 we do not doubt our eyes2 we know the rains did it4 ,but when we see the same thing copied in a broad landscape1 or on the face of a state or a continent1 we find it hard to believe the evidence of our own senses4 ,the scale upon which it is done1 and the time involved1 put it so far beyond the sphere of our experience that something in us1 probably the practical1 everyday man1 refuses to be convinced4 ,the lay mind can hardly have any adequate conception of the part erosion1 the simple weathering of the rocks1 has played in shaping our landscapes1 and in preparing the earth for the abode of man4 ,the changes in the surface of the land in one's lifetime1 or even in the historic period1 are so slight that the tales the geologists tell us are incredible4 ,when1 during a recent trip through the great ,southwest1 ,i saw the earth laid open by erosion as ,i had never before dreamed of1 especially when ,i visited those halls of the gods1 the ,grand ,canon and ,yosemite ,valley1 ,i found my capacity to believe in the erosive power of water and the weather quite overtaxed4 ,it must be true1 ,i said1 what the geologists tell us1 that water and air did all this2 but while you look and wait1 and while generations before you have looked and waited1 all is as quiet and passive as if the slumber of ages wrapped hill and vale4 ,invisible giants have wrought and delved here of whom we never catch a glimpse1 nor shall we1 wait and watch we never so long4 ,no sound of their hammers or picks or shovels or of the dynamite ever breaks the stillness of the air4 ,i have to believe that the valleys and mountains of my native ,catskills were carved out of a great elevated plain or plateau2 there is no other explanation of them4 ,here lie the level strata1 without any bending or folding1 or sign of convulsion and upheavals1 horizontal as the surface of the sea or lake in which their sediments were originally laid down2 and here are these deep1 wide valleys cut down through these many sheets of stratified rock2 and here are these long1 high1 broad-backed mountains1 made up of the rock that the forces of air and water have left1 and with no forces of erosion at work that would appreciably alter a line of the landscape in ten thousand years2 and yet we know1 if we know anything about the physical history of the earth1 that erosion has done this work1 carved out these mountains and valleys1 from the ,devonian strata1 as literally as the sculptor carves his statue from the block of marble4 ,above my lodge on the home farm the vast layers of the gray1 thin-sheeted ,catskill rock crop out and look across the valley to their fellows two or more miles away where they crop out in a similar manner on the opposite slope of the mountain4 ,with the eye of faith ,i see the great sheets restored1 and follow them across on the line which they made aeons ago1 till they are joined again to their fellows as they were before the agents of erosion had so widely severed them4 ,these physical forces have worked as slowly and silently in sculpturing the landscapes as the biological laws have worked in evolving man from the lower animals1 or the vertebrates from the invertebrates4 ,the rains1 the dews1 the snows1 the winds--how could these soft1 gently careering agents have demolished these rocks and dug these valleys8 ,one would almost as soon expect the wings and feet of the birds to wear away the forests they flit through4 ,the wings of time are feathered also1 and as they brush against the granite or the flinty sandstone no visible particle is removed while you watch and wait4 ,come back in a thousand years1 and you note no change1 save in the covering of trees and verdure4 ,return in ten thousand1 and you would probably find the hills carrying their heads as high and as proudly as ever4 ,here and there the face of the cliff may have given way1 or a talus slid into the valley1 or a stream or river changed its course1 or sawed deeper into the rock1 and a lake been turned into a marsh1 or the delta of a river broadened--minor changes1 such as a shingle from your roof or a brick from your chimney1 while your house stands as before4 ,in one hundred thousand years what changes should we probably find8 ,here in the ,catskills1 where ,i write1 the weathering of the hills and mountains would probably have been but slight4 ,it must be fifty thousand years or more since the great ice-sheet left us4 ,where protected by a thin coat of soil1 its scratches and grooves upon the surface rock are about as fresh and distinct as you may see them made in ,alaska at the present time4 ,where the rock is exposed1 they have weathered out1 one eighth of an inch probably having been worn away4 ,the drifting of the withered leaves of autumn1 or of the snows of winter over them1 it really seems1 would have done as much in that stretch of time4 ,then try to fancy the eternity it has taken the subaerial elements to cut thousands of feet through this hard ,catskill sandstone6 ,no1 the evolution of the landscape1 the evolution of the animal and vegetable kingdoms1 the evolution of the suns and planets1 involve a process so slow1 and on such a scale1 that it is quite unthinkable4 ,how long it took evolution to bridge the chasm between the vertebrate and the invertebrate1 between the fish and the frog1 between the frog and the reptile1 between the reptile and the mammal1 or between the lowest mammal and the highest1 who can guess8 ,but the gulf has been passed1 and here we are in this teeming world of life and beauty1 with a terrible past behind us1 but a brighter and brighter future before us4 ,x ,,the ,,worm ,,striving ,,to ,,be ,,man ,when our minds have expanded sufficiently to take in and accept the theory of evolution1 with what different feelings we look upon the visible universe from those with which our fathers looked upon it6 ,evolution makes the universe alive4 ,in its light we see that mysterious potency of matter itself1 that something in the clod under foot that justifies ,emerson's audacious line of the worm striving to be man4 ,we are no longer the adopted children of the earth1 but her own real offspring4 ,evolution puts astronomy and geology in our blood and authenticates us and gives us the backing of the whole solar system4 ,this is the redemption of the earth3 it is the spiritualization of matter4 ,in imagination stand off in vacant space and see the earth rolling by you1 a huge bubble with all its continents and seas and changing seasons and countless forms of life upon it1 and remember that you are looking upon a great cosmic organism1 pulsing with the vital currents of the universe1 and that what it holds of living forms were not arbitrarily imposed upon it from without1 but vitally evolved from within and that man himself is one of its products as literally as are the trees that stand rooted to the soil4 ,revert to the time when life was not1 when the globe was a half-incandescent ball1 or when it was a seething1 weltering waste of heated water1 before the land had yet emerged from the waves1 and yet you and ,i were there in the latent potencies of the chemically and dynamically warring elements4 ,we were there1 the same as the heat and flame are in the coal and wood and as the explosive force of powder is in the grains4 ,the creative cosmic chemistry in due time brought us forth1 and started us on the long road that led from the amoeba up to man4 ,there have been no days of creation4 ,creation has been a continuous process1 and the creator has been this principle of evolution inherent in all matter4 ,man himself was born of this principle4 ,his genealogy finally runs back to the clod under his feet4 ,one has no trouble in accepting the old ,biblical account of his origin from the dust of the earth when one views that dust in the light of modern science4 ,man is undoubtedly of animal origin4 ,he is embraced in the same zoological scheme as are all other creatures1 and did not start as man any more than you and ,i started with our present stature1 or than the earth sprang from chaos as we now behold it4 ,his complete physical evolution must have been achieved thousands of centuries ago1 but his full mental and spiritual evolution is not yet4 ,i think of his physical evolution as completed when he assumed the upright attitude or passed from a quadruped to a biped1 which must of itself have been a long1 slow process4 ,probably our whole historic period would form but a fraction of this cycle of unrecorded time4 ,man's complete emergence from the lower orders1 so that he stood off in sharp contrast to them in his physical form probably occurred in later ,tertiary times1 and what the meaning of this stretch of time is in human years we can only conjecture4 ,during this cycle of numberless millenniums till the dawn of history1 man's development was mainly mental4 ,he left the brute creature behind because his mind continued to develop after his physical form was complete1 while the brute stood still4 ,whence the impulse that sent man forward8 ,why was one animal form endowed with the capacity for endless growth and development1 and all the others denied it8 ,ah6 that is the question of questions4 ,compared with the development of his bodily powers1 man's mental and spiritual growth has been very rapid4 ,he seems to have been millions of years in getting his body1 while he has been only millenniums in getting his reason and intelligence4 ,what progress since the dawn of history6 ,compare the ,germans of the time of ,tacitus1 or the ,gauls of the time of ,caesar1 or the ,britons of the time of ,hadrian with the people of those countries to-day4 ,we are prone to speak of man's emergence from the lower orders as if it were a simple thing1 almost like the going from one country into another4 ,but try to think what it means2 try to think of the slow transformation1 of the long1 toilsome road even from the halfway house of our simian ancestors4 ,if we do not give him the benefit of the sudden mutation theory of the origin of species1 then think of the slow process1 hair by hair1 as it were1 by which a tailed1 apelike arboreal animal was transformed into a hairless1 tailless1 erect1 tool-using1 fire-using1 speech-forming animal4 ,we see in our own day in the case of the ,african negro1 that centuries of our ,northern climate have hardly any appreciable effect toward making a white man of him2 nor1 on the other hand1 has exposure to the tropical sun had much more effect in making a negro of the white man4 ,probably it would take ten thousand years or more of these conditions to bleach the pigments out of the one skin and put them in the other4 ,there is convincing proof from painting and figures found in ,egypt that neither the ,african negro nor the ,egyptian has changed in features in five thousand years4 ,the most marvelous thing about man's evolution is the inborn upward impulse in some one low organism that rested not till it reached its goal in him4 ,the mollusk remains1 but some impulse went out from the mollusk that begat the fish4 ,the fish remains1 but some impulse went out from the fish that begat the amphibian4 ,the amphibian remains1 but some impulse went out from the amphibian that begat the reptile4 ,the reptile remains1 but some impulse went out from the reptile that begat the mammal2 and so on up to man4 ,man must have had a specific line of descent4 ,one golden thread must connect him with the lowest forms of life4 ,and the wonder is that this golden thread was never snapped or lost through all the terrible vicissitudes of the geologic ages4 ,but ,i suppose it is just as great a wonder that the line of descent of the horse1 or the sheep1 or the dog1 or the bird1 was not snapped or lost4 ,some impulse or tendency was latent or potential in the first unicellular life that rested not till it eventuated in each of these higher forms4 ,did any terrestrial or celestial calamity endanger the line of descent of any of the higher creatures8 ,was any form cut off in the world-wide crustal disturbances of the earth at the end of palaeozoic and mesozoic time1 when so many forms of animal life appear to have been wiped out1 that might in time have given birth to a kind unlike or superior to any now upon the earth8 ,species after species have become extinct1 whole orders and families have gone out1 often rather suddenly4 ,why we know not4 ,why the line of man's descent was not cut off1 who knows8 ,it is a vain speculation4 ,there can be little doubt that in early ,tertiary times our ancestor was a small1 feeble mammal1 maybe of the lemur1 maybe of the marsupial kind1 powerless before the great carnivorous mammals of that time1 and probably escaping them by his greater agility1 perhaps by his arboreal habits4 ,the ancestor of the horse was also a small creature at that time1 not larger than a fox4 ,it was not cut off2 the line of descent seems complete to the horse of our day4 ,small beginnings seem to be the rule in all provinces of life4 ,there is little doubt that the great animals of our day--the elephant1 the whale1 the lion1--all had their start in small forms4 ,many of these small forms have been found4 ,but a complete series of any of the animal forms that eventuated in any of the dominant species is yet wanting4 ,it is quite certain that the huge1 the gigantic1 the monstrous in animal1 as in vegetable life1 lies far behind us4 ,is it not quite certain that evolution in the life of the globe has run its course1 and that it will not again bring forth reptiles or mammals of the terrible proportions of those of past geologic ages8 nor ferns1 nor mosses1 nor as gigantic trees as those of ,carboniferous times8 ,probably the redwoods of the ,far ,west1 the gigantic sequoias1 are the last race of gigantic trees4 ,the tide of life of the globe is undoubtedly at the full4 ,the flood has no doubt been checked many times4 ,the glacial periods1 of which there seem to have been several in different parts of the earth1 and in different geological periods1 no doubt checked it when it occurred4 ,but the tide as a whole must have steadily risen1 because the progression from lower to higher forms has gone steadily forward4 ,the lower forms have come along2 ,nature has left nothing behind4 ,the radiates1 the articulates1 the mollusca1 are still with us1 but in the midst of these the higher and higher forms have been constantly appearing4 ,the great biological tree has got its growth4 ,many branches and twigs have died and dropped off1 and many more will do so1 are doing so before our eyes1 but ,i cannot help doubting that any new branches of importance are yet to appear--any new families or orders of birds1 or fishes1 or reptiles1 or mammals4 ,the horse1 the stag1 the sheep1 the dog1 the cat1 as we know them1 are doubtless the end of the series4 ,one arrives at this conclusion upon general principles4 ,life as a whole must run its course or reach its high-water mark1 the same as life in its particular phases4 ,man has arrived and has universal dominion2 all things are put under his feet4 ,the destiny of life upon the globe is henceforth largely in his hands4 ,not even he can avert the final cosmic catastrophe which physicists foresee1 and which1 according to ,professor ,lowell1 the beings upon ,mars are now struggling to ward off4 ,man has taken his chances in the clash of forces of the physical universe4 ,no favor has been shown him1 or is shown him to-day1 and yet he has come to his estate4 ,he has never been coddled2 fire1 water1 frost1 gravity1 hunger1 death1 have made and still make no exceptions in his favor4 ,he is on a level with all other animals in this respect4 ,he has his life and well-being on the same terms as do the fowls of the air and the beasts of the fields4 ,archbishop ,whately thought that primitive man could never have raised himself to a higher condition without external aid--some elementary instruction to enable his faculties to begin their work4 ,he must have had a boost4 ,well1 the boost was forthcoming1 but it was not from without1 but from within1 through this principle of development1 this upward striving that was innate from the first in certain forms of life and of which ,whately had no conception4 ,it was the conception of his time that creation was like a watch made and wound up by some power external to itself4 ,the physical evolution of man1 as ,i have said1 is no doubt complete4 ,he will never have wings1 or more legs1 or longer arms1 or a bigger brain4 ,the wings and the extra legs and the keener sense he has left behind him4 ,his development henceforth must be in the mental and spiritual4 ,he is bound to have more and more dominion over ,nature1 and see more and more clearly his own relation to her4 ,he will in time completely subdue and possess the earth4 ,yes1 and probably exhaust her8 ,but he will see in time that he is squandering his inheritance and will mend his ways4 ,he will conserve in the future as he has wasted in the past4 ,he will learn to conserve his own health4 ,he will banish disease2 he will stamp out all the plagues and scourges1 through his scientific knowledge2 he will double or treble the length of life4 ,man has undoubtedly passed through and finished certain phases of his emotional and mental development4 ,he will never again be the religious enthusiast and fanatic he has been in the past2 he has not worshiped his last1 but he has worshiped his best4 ,he will build no more cathedrals2 he will burn no more martyrs at the stake4 ,his religion as such is on the wane4 ,but his humanitarianism is a rising tide4 ,he is becoming less and less a savage1 revolts more and more at the sight of blood and suffering4 ,the highly religious ages were ages of blood and persecution4 ,man's tenderness for man has vastly increased4 ,the sense of the sacredness of human life has increased as his faith in his gods has declined4 ,he has grown more human as he has grown less superstitious4 ,science has atrophied his faith1 but it has softened his heart4 ,his fear of ,nature has given place to love4 ,man never loved as he does now4 ,he has withdrawn his gaze from heaven and fixed it upon the earth4 ,as his interest in other worlds has diminished1 his interest in this has increased4 ,as the angels have departed1 the children have come in4 ,when the nations1 too1 cease to be savage and selfish1 and become altruistic1 then the new birth of humanity will actually have occurred4 ,as an artist and a creator of beautiful forms1 man has also had his day2 he loved the beautiful1 the artistic1 or the ornamental long before he loved the true and the just4 ,he was proud before he was kind2 he was chivalrous before he was decent2 he was tattooed before he was washed2 he was painted before he was clothed2 he built temples before he built a home2 he sacrificed to his gods before he helped his neighbor2 he was heroic before he was self-denying2 he was devout before he was charitable4 ,we are losing the savage virtues and vanities and growing in the grace of all the humanities1 and this process will doubtless go on1 with many interruptions and setbacks of course1 till the kingdom of love is at last fairly established upon the earth4 ,,xi ,,the ,,phantoms ,,behind ,,us ,i ,i take the title of this paper from those great lines in ,whitman beginning-- ,rise after rise bow the phantoms behind me-- in which he launches in vivid imaginative form the whole doctrine of evolution some years before ,darwin had published his epoch-making work on the ,origin of ,species4 ,i see afar down the huge first ,nothing1 and ,i know ,i was even there4 ,i do not know that ,whitman had any concrete belief in the truth of the animal origin of man4 ,he read as picture and parable that which the man of science reads as demonstrable fact4 ,he saw and felt the great truth of evolution1 but he saw it as written in his own heart and not in the great stone book of the earth1 and he saw it written large4 ,he felt its cosmic truth1 its truth in relation to the whole scheme of things2 he felt his own kinship with all that lives1 and had a vivid personal sense of his debt to the past1 not only of human history1 but also to the past of the earth and the spheres4 ,and he felt this as a poet and not as a man of science4 ,the theory of evolution as applied to the whole universe and its inevitable corollary1 the animal origin of man1 is now well established in most of the leading minds of the world1 but it is still rejected by many timid and sensitive souls1 and it will be a long time before it becomes universally accepted4 ,doubtless one source of the trouble we have in accepting the theory comes from the fact that our minds have not been used to such thoughts2 in the mind of the race they are a new thing3 they are not in the literature nor in the philosophy nor in the sacred books in which our minds have been nurtured2 they are of yesterday2 they came to us raw and unhallowed by the usage of ages2 more than that1 they savor of the materialism of all modern science1 which is so distasteful to our finer ideals and religious sensibilities4 ,in fact1 these ideas are strangers of an alien race in our intellectual household1 and we look upon them coldly and distrustfully4 ,but probably to our children1 or to our children's children1 they will wear quite a different countenance2 they will have become an accepted part of the great family of ideas of the race4 ,another hindrance is the dullness and opacity of our own minds4 ,we are slow to wake up to a sense of the divinity that hedges us about4 ,the great office of science has been to show us this universe as much more wonderful and divine than we have been wont to believe2 shot through and through with celestial laws and forces2 matter1 indeed1 but matter informed with spirit and intelligence2 the creative energy inherent and active in the ground underfoot not less than in the stars and nebulae overhead4 ,we look for the divine afar off4 ,we gaze upon the beauty and purity of the heavenly bodies without thinking that we are also in the heavens4 ,we must open our minds to the stupendous fact that ,god is immanent in his universe and that it is literally and exactly true1 as we were taught long ago1 that1 during every moment of our lives1 in ,him we live and move and have our being4 ,moreover1 we are staggered by the element of vast time that is implied in the history of development4 ,were it not for the records in the rocks1 we could not believe it at all4 ,all the grand movements and processes of nature are quite beyond our ken4 ,in the heavens only the astronomer with his prisms and telescopes traces them2 only the geologist and palaeontologist read their history in the earth's crust4 ,the soil we cultivate was once solid rock1 but not in one lifetime1 not in many lifetimes1 do we see the transformation of the rocks into soil4 ,nations may rise and fall1 and the rocks they looked upon and the soil they tilled remain practically unchanged4 ,geologists talk about the ancient continents that have passed away4 ,what an abyss of time such things open6 ,they talk about the birth of a mountain or the decay of a mountain as we talk of the birth and death of a man1 but in doing so they reckon with periods of time for which we have no standards of measurement4 ,they walk and talk with the ,eternal4 ,to us the mountains seem as fixed as the stars4 ,but the stars1 too1 are flitting4 ,look at ,orion some millions of years hence1 and he will have been torn limb from limb4 ,the combination of stars that forms that striking constellation and all other constellations is temporary as the grouping of the clouds4 ,the rise of man from the lower orders implies a scale of time almost as great4 ,it is unintelligible to us because it belongs to a category of facts that transcends our experience and the experience of the race as the interstellar spaces transcend our earthly measurements4 ,we now gaze upon the order below us across an impassable gulf1 but that gulf we have crossed and without any supernatural means of transportation4 ,we may say it has been bridged or filled with the humble ancestral forms that carried forward the precious evolutionary impulse of the vertebrate series till it culminated in man4 ,all vestiges of that living bridge are now gone1 and the legend of our crossing seems like a dream or a miracle4 ,biological evolution has gone hand in hand with geological evolution1 and both are on a scale of time of which our hour-glass of the centuries gives us but a faint hint4 ,our notions of time are not formed on the pattern of the cosmic processes1 or the geologic processes1 or the evolutionary processes2 they are formed on the pattern of our own brief span of life4 ,in a few cases in the familiar life about us we see the evolutionary process abridged1 and transformations like those of unrecorded time take place before our eyes1 as when the tadpole becomes the frog or the grub becomes the butterfly4 ,these rapid changes are analogous to those which in the depths of geologic time have evolved the bird from the fish or the reptile1 or the seal and the manatee from a fourfooted land animal4 ,our common bluebird has long been recognized as a descendant of the thrush family2 this origin is evident in the speckled breast of the young birds and in the voices of the mature birds4 ,i have heard a bluebird with an unmistakable thrush note4 ,the transformation has doubtless been so slow that an analogous change taking place in any of the bird forms of our own time would entirely escape observation4 ,the bluebird may have been as long in getting his blue coat as man has been in getting his upright position4 ,looking into the laws and processes of the common nature about us for clues to the origin of man is not unlike looking into the records of the phonograph for the secret of the music which that wonderful instrument voices for us4 ,something1 some active principle or agent1 has to invoke the music that slumbers or is latent in these lines4 ,in like manner some principle or force that we do not see is active in the ground underfoot and in the forms of life about us which is the final secret of the origin of man and of all other creatures4 ,this something is the evolutionary impulse1 this innate aspiration of living matter to reach higher and higher forms4 ,urge and urge1 says ,whitman1 always the procreant urge of the world4 ,it is in ,emerson's worm striving to be man4 ,this striving pervades organic nature4 ,whence its origin science does not assume to say4 ,footnote3 ,this passage was written long before ,i had read ,bergson's ,creative ,evolution1 as were several others of the same import in this volume4 ,then the difference in kind between the mind of man and that of the lower orders makes evolution a doubly hard problem4 ,look over the globe and see what a gulf separates man from all other creatures4 ,all the other animals seem akin--as if the product of the same workman4 ,man1 in contrast1 seems like an introduction from some other sphere or the outcome of quite other psychological laws2 his dominion over them all is so complete and universal4 ,without their specialization of structure or powers1 he yet masters them all and uses them2 without their powers of speed1 he yet outstrips them2 without their strength of tusk and limb1 he yet subdues them2 without their inerrant instinct1 he yet outwits them2 without their keenness of eye1 ear1 and nose1 he yet wins in the chase2 without their special adaptation to environment1 he survives when they perish4 ,a man is marked off from the animals below him1 ,i say1 as if he were a being of another sphere4 ,he looks into their eyes and they into his1 and no recognition passes2 and yet we have to believe that he and they are fruit of the same biologic tree and that their stem forms unite in the same trunk somewhere in the abyss of biologic time4 ,the rise of man from the lower orders taxes our powers of belief and our faith in the divinity that lurks underfoot far more than did the special creation myth4 ,creation by omnipotent fiat seems easy when you have the omnipotent being to begin with1 but creation through evolution is a kind of cosmic or biologic legerdemain that baffles and bewilders us4 ,it so far transcends all our earthly knowledge and experience and all the flights of our philosophy that we stand speechless before it4 ,it opens a gulf that the imagination cannot clear2 it opens vistas from which we instinctively shrink2 it opens up abysms of time in which our whole historic period would be but a day2 it opens up a world of struggle1 delay1 waste1 failure that palls the imagination4 ,it challenges our faith in the immanency and in the ceaseless activity of ,god in his world2 it brings the creative energy down from its celestial abode and clothes it with the flesh and blood of animal life4 ,it may chill and shock us2 it shows us that we are of the earth earthy2 yea1 that we are of the animal beastly2 it presses us down in matter2 it puts out the lights to which we have so long turned as lighting our origin2 the words sacred1 divine1 holy1 and celestial1 as applied to our origin and development1 we have no longer any use for1 nor for any words or ideas that set us apart from the rest of creation--above it in our origin or apart from it in our relations4 ,the atmosphere of mystery and miracle and sanctity that our religious training has thrown around our introduction upon this planet and around our relations and destiny science dispels4 ,our language and many of our ideas and habits of thought date back to pre-scientific times--when there were two worlds1 the heavenly and the earthly1 separated by a gulf4 ,now we know that the two worlds are one1 that they are inseparably blended2 that the celestial and the terrestrial are under the same law2 that we can never be any more in the heavens than we are here and now1 nor any nearer the final sources of life and power2 that the divine is underfoot as well as overhead2 that we are part and parcel of the physical universe1 and take our chances in the cosmic processes the same as the rest1 and draw upon the same fund of animal life that the other creatures do4 ,we are identified with the worm underfoot no less than with the stars overhead4 ,we are not degraded by such a thought1 but the whole of creation is lifted up4 ,our minds and bodies are not less divine1 but all things are more divine4 ,we have to gird up our loins and try to summon strength to see this tremendous universe as it is1 alive and divine to the last particle and embosomed in the ,infinite4 ,,ii ,evolution is not the final explanation of the universe1 but it is probably the largest generalization of the modern mind4 ,science has to start somewhere1 and it starts with the universe as it finds it and seeks to trace secondary or proximate causes2 the evolutionist seeks to trace the footsteps of creative energy in the world of animal life4 ,how did ,god make man8 ,out of the dust of the earth1 says the ,bible of our fathers4 ,the evolutionist teaches essentially the same thing1 only he does not abridge the process as the catechism has abridged it for us2 he would fain unfold the whole long road that man has traveled from the first protozoic cell to the vast communities of cells that now make up his physical life4 ,he would show how man has risen on stepping-stones of his dead self4 ,these stepping-stones have been the animal forms below him4 ,in them and through them something1 some impulse1 some force1 has mounted and mounted through all the enormous lapse of geologic time4 ,in imagination we see the dim1 shadowy man1 restless and struggling in a vast number of earlier forms4 ,he has struggled upward through the invertebrates1 through the fish1 through the reptile1 through the lower mammals1 through his simian ancestors till he reaches his goal in the man we know4 ,darwin was not the author of the theory of evolution1 but he made the theory alive and real to the imagination4 ,he showed us what a master key it is for unlocking the riddle of the life of the globe4 ,he launched biological science upon a new career and made it worthy of its place in the great trilogy of sciences1 astronomy1 geology1 and biology1 of which ,tennyson1 in his poem ,parnassus1 recognized only the first two4 ,had ,tennyson written his poem in our day he would undoubtedly have included biology among his terrible ,muses that tower above all others1 eclipsing the glory of the great poets4 ,or is it true that we find it easier to accept the theory of the evolution of the worlds and suns from nebulous matter than to accept the theory of the evolution of man from the maze of the lower animal forms8 ,it is less personal to us4 ,the astronomer has the advantage of the biologist in one important respect3 he can show us in the heavens now the process of the evolution of worlds actually going on1 but the biologist cannot show us the transformation of one species into another taking place to-day4 ,we can sound the abysses of astronomic space easier than we can sound the abysses of geologic time4 ,the stars and the nebulae we have always with us1 but where are the myriad earlier forms that were the antecedents of the present animal life of the globe8 ,true1 the palaeontologist finds a more or less disjointed record of them in the stratified rocks and sees in a measure the course evolution has taken1 but he does not actually see it at work as does the astronomer4 ,more than that1 the forces the astronomer deals with are mechanical and chemical1 but the biologist deals with a new force called life that often reverses or defies mechanical and chemical forces1 but which is yet so identified and blended with them that we cannot conceive it apart from them4 ,the stomach does not digest itself1 nor gravity hold the blood in the lower extremities4 ,the tree lifts up its weight of fluids and solids and holds aloft its fruit and foliage in spite of gravity2 its growing roots split and lift the rocks2 mosses and lichens disintegrate granite2 vital energy triumphs over chemical and mechanical energy4 ,biological laws are much more subtle and difficult to trace and formulate than chemical and mechanical laws4 ,hence the student of organic evolution can rarely arrive at the demonstrable certainties in this field that he can in the sphere of chemistry and mechanics4 ,it is very doubtful if life can ever be explained in terms of these things4 ,life works through chemical combinations and affinities1 and yet is it not more than chemistry8 ,it works with and through mechanical principles and forces1 and yet it is evidently more than mechanics4 ,it is manifested through matter1 and yet no analysis of matter can reveal its secret4 ,it comes and goes while matter stays2 we destroy life1 but cannot destroy matter4 ,it is as fugitive as the wind which fills all sails one minute and is gone the next4 ,it avails itself of fluids and gases and the laws which govern them1 but fluids and gases do not explain it4 ,it waits upon the rains and the dews1 but it is more than they are2 it follows in the footsteps of the decay and disintegration of the inorganic1 and yet it is not the gift of these things2 it transforms the face of the earth1 and yet the earth has been and will be when it was not and when it will not be4 ,through his knowledge and his science man performs wonders every day2 he can reduce mountains to powder and seas to dry land1 but he cannot create or start de novo the least throb of life4 ,at least1 he has not yet done so4 ,with all his vast resources of mechanics and chemistry1 and his insight into the mechanism of the universe1 he has not yet made the least particle of inorganic matter thrill with the mysterious something we call life4 ,there must have been a time when life was not upon the earth and there must again come a time when it will not be4 ,it has probably vanished from the moon and all inferior planets1 and it has not yet come to the superior planets1 except maybe to ,mars4 ,it must be and must have always been potential in matter1 but this fact leaves the mystery as profound as ever4 ,yet if the artificial production of life were to happen to-day--if in some of our laboratories living matter were produced from non-living1 should we not still have to credit the event to some mysterious potency residing in matter itself8 ,if by a lucky stroke man were to evoke the organic from the inorganic1 be assured he would not evoke something from nothing1 or add anything to the latent possibilities of the elements with which he works4 ,does not the question still remain who or what made this feat possible8 ,one dare affirm that man cannot create life de novo any more than he can create matter4 ,he may yet evoke life as he evokes the spark from the flint and the flame from the match or as he evokes force from the food he eats4 ,in this latter case he does not create the force2 he liberates it through the vital forces of his body4 ,the spark from the flint and the flame from the match were called forth by a mechanical process1 but the process was set going by the will which waits upon the vital process4 ,the body with all its many functions is a complicated system of mechanical devices and chemical processes1 but that which is back of all and governs all is not mechanical2 the body is a machine plus something else4 ,the chemist or biologist who shall produce a speck of protoplasm to-day will have the credit of unlocking a power in inorganic nature2 he will prove by a short cut how immanent the creative energy or the vital force of the universe is in matter4 ,he will not have eliminated the creative energy2 he will only have disclosed it and availed himself of it4 ,we behold spontaneous combustion1 a fire self-kindled1 but we do not see the activity of the particles of matter that preceded it or penetrate the secret of their mysterious affinities4 ,the fire was potential there in the very constitution of the elements4 ,we flout at miracles1 and then we disclose an unending miracle in the life about us4 ,all the life upon the globe1 including man with all his marvelous powers1 surely originated upon the globe1 surely arose out of the non-living and the non-thinking1 not by the fiat of some power external to nature1 but through the creative energy inherent in nature and ever active there4 ,the great physical instrumentality was heat--without heat the reaction called life could never have taken place4 ,this fact has led a ,french biologist to say that life is only a surface accident in the history of the thermic evolution of the globe4 ,without the disintegration of the rocks and the formation of the soil and the precipitation of watery vapor1 which was indirectly the work of heat1 the vegetable and the animal could not have developed4 ,if we succeed in proving that all these things are of chemico-mechanical origin1 we still want to know who or what instituted these chemical and mechanical powers and the laws that govern them4 ,creation by chemistry and mechanics is as mysterious as creation by miracle4 ,we must still have a creator1 while we can do nothing with him nor find any place for him in an endless1 beginningless1 infinite series of events4 ,so there we are4 ,we go out of the same door by which we came in4 ,when all life vanishes from the earth1 as it will when the condition of heat and moisture has radically changed1 and eternal refrigeration sets in--what then8 ,the potencies of matter will not have changed and life will reappear and go through its cycle again on some other sphere4 ,life began upon this earth not by miracle in the old sense1 but by miracle in the new scientific sense--by the immanence and ceaseless activity of the creative energy in the physical world about us--in the sunbeam1 in the rains1 in the snows1 in the air currents1 and in the soil underfoot2 in oxygen1 hydrogen1 carbon1 nitrogen1 in lime1 iron1 silex1 phosphorus1 and in all the rest of them4 ,each has its laws1 its ways1 its fixed mode of procedure1 its affinities1 its likes and dislikes1 and life is bound up with all of them4 ,if we hypothesize the ether to explain certain phenomena1 why should we not hypothesize a vital force to account for other mysteries8 ,the inorganic passes into the organic as night passes into day4 ,where does one end and the other begin8 ,no man can tell4 ,there is no beginning and no ending of either1 and yet night comes and goes and day comes and goes--a constant becoming and a constant ending4 ,we are probably in the midday of the life of the globe--life huge and rank and riotous--the youth of life has passed1 life more sedate and aspiring and spiritual has come4 ,the gigantic has gone or is going1 the huge monsters of the sea and of the land have had their day1 man appears at the end of the series of lesser but more complete forms4 ,many intelligent persons who have been rocked in the cradle of the old creeds still look upon evolution as a godless doctrine and accuse it of vulgarizing high and sacred things4 ,this state of mind can only be slowly outgrown by familiarizing ourselves with the processes of nature or of the creative energy in the world of life and matter about us2 with our own origin in the low fishlike or apelike creature in the maternal womb2 with the development of every plant1 tree1 and animal from a microscopic germ2 with the unbroken sequence of natural law2 with the waste1 the delays1 the pains1 the failures on every hand2 with the impersonal and the impartial character of all the physical forces2 with the transformations and metamorphoses that marked the course of animal life2 and1 above all1 with the thought that evolution is not self-caused or in any true sense a cause in itself1 but the instrument or plan of the power that works in and through all things4 ,the ways of ,god in all these details are past finding out1 but science watches the unfolding of a bud1 the development of a grain of wheat1 the growth of the human embryo1 the succession of life-forms upon the globe as revealed in the records of the stratified rocks1 or observes in the heavens the condensation of nebulous matter into suns and systems1 and it says this is one of his ways4 ,evolution--an endless unfolding and transformation4 ,urge and urge and urge1 says ,whitman 7,i love to repeat this saying2 it is so significant71 always the procreant urge of the world4 ,always the labor and travail pains of the universe to bring forth higher forms2 always struggle and pain and failure and death1 but always a new birth and an upward reach4 ,strike out the element of time and we see evolution as the great prestidigitator of the biologic ages4 ,the creative energy manipulates a fish and it turns into a reptile2 it covers a mollusk as with a vapor and behold1 a backboned creature instead6 ,now we see a little creature no larger than a fox and when we look again1 behold the horse2 a wolf or some kindred animal is plunged into the water1 and behold1 the seal6 ,some small creature of the lemur kind is covered with a capacious hand1 and we look again1 and behold man6 ,we have only to minimize time and minimize space to see the impossible happening all about us or to see the ,mosaic account of creation repeated2 we have only the clay and water to begin with1 when1 presto6 behold what we have now6 ,we see the rocks covered with verdure1 the mountains vanishing into plains1 the valleys changing into hills or the plains changing into mountains1 tropic lands covered with ice and snow4 ,lord ,salisbury thought he had discredited natural selection1 which is one of the feet upon which evolution goes1 when he charged that no one had ever seen it at work4 ,we have not seen it at work because our little span of life is too short4 ,only the palaeontologist traces in the records of the rocks the footsteps of this god of change4 ,and rarely if ever does he find a continuous and complete record--only a footprint here and there1 but he sees the direction in which they are going and many of the places where the traveler tarried4 ,the palaeontologist1 that detective of the rocks1 works up his case with the same thoroughness and caution and the same power of observation as does the detective in human affairs and with a greater sweep of scientific imagination4 ,an agent of evolution is the influence of the environment1 but who sees the environment set its stamp upon animal life8 ,after many generations we may see the accumulated results4 ,in a few instances the results are rapid4 ,thus sheep lose their wool in tropical climates and a northern fur-bearing animal its fur4 ,the well-being of the animal demands this change1 and demands it quickly4 ,fish lose their sense of sight in underground streams2 this loss is not so vital and it comes about much more slowly4 ,a tropical climate sets its stamp upon the complexion and character of man1 but this again is a slow process1 as the same stress of necessity does not exist4 ,in the tendency to variation--in form1 size1 disposition1 power1 fertility--man differs from all other animals4 ,in the same race1 in the same family1 we find infinitely varied types4 ,among the wild creatures all the individuals of a species are practically alike4 ,we can hardly tell one fox1 or one marmot1 or one chipmunk1 or one crow1 or one hawk1 or one black duck from another of the same species4 ,of course there are slight individual differences1 but they are hardly distinguishable4 ,among the insects1 one bee1 one beetle1 one ant1 one butterfly seems the exact copy of every other individual of its kind4 ,the law of variation seems practically annulled in the insect world4 ,it is the wide and free range of this law in the human species that has undoubtedly led to the great progress of the race4 ,there has been no dead level--no democracy of talent--no equality of gifts1 but only equality of opportunity4 ,men differ from one another in their mental endowments1 capacities1 and dispositions vastly more than do any other creatures upon the earth4 ,this difference makes man's chances of progress so much the greater2 he has so many more stakes in the game4 ,if one type of talent fails1 another type may win2 if the lymphatic temperament is not a success1 try the sanguine or the bilious2 blue eyes and black eyes and brown eyes will win more triumphs than blue or black or brown alone4 ,arms or legs extra long1 sight or hearing extra sharp1 wit extra keen1 judgment extra sure--all these things open doors to more progress4 ,variation gives natural selection a chance to take hold1 and where the struggle for life is the most severe the changes will be the most rapid and the most radical4 ,without the pressure of the environment natural selection would not select4 ,the tendency to physical variation in man is probably no greater than in other creatures1 but his tendency to mental variation is enormous4 ,he varies daily from mediocrity to genius1 hence the enormous range of his chances of progress4 ,from the first variation that started him on his way in his line of descent1 variation must have been more and more active till he varied in the direction of reason1 long before the dawn of history1 since which time his progress has been by rapid strides--and more and more rapid till we see his leaps forward in recent times4 ,the race owes its rapid progress to its exceptional men1 its men of genius and power1 and these have often been like sports or the sudden result of mutations--a man like ,lincoln springing from the humblest parentage4 ,no such extreme variations are seen in any of the lower orders4 ,indeed1 in one's lifetime one sees but very slight variation in any of the wild or domestic creatures1 less in the wild than in the domestic because they are less under the influence of that most variable of animals1 man4 ,and man's variations are mainly mental and not physical4 ,the higher we go in the scale of powers1 the greater the variation and hence the more rapid the evolution4 ,probably man's body has not changed radically in vast cycles of time1 but his mind has developed enormously since the dawn of history4 ,,iv ,biologists are coming more and more to recognize some unknown factor in evolution1 probably some unknowable factor4 ,the four factors of ,osborn--heredity1 ontogeny1 environment1 selection--play upon and modify endlessly the new form when it is started1 but what about the original start8 ,whence comes this inborn momentum1 this evolutionary send-off8 ,what or who set the whole grand process going8 ,bergson sees an internal psychological principle of development1 hence the name of his book1 ,creative ,evolution4 ,osborn uses the word directed4 ,certain characters1 he says1 are adaptive or suited to their purpose from the start2 they do not have to be fitted to their place by natural selection4 ,huxley uses the word predestined--all the life of the globe and all the starry hosts of heaven are working out in boundless space and in endless time their predestined course of evolution4 ,darwin must have had in mind the same mysterious something when he said that man had risen to the very summit of the animal scale1 but not through his own exertions4 ,not by his own will or exertion1 surely1 any more than the embryo in its mother's womb develops into the full-grown child by its own exertion or than our temperaments and complexions and statures are matters of our own wills and choice4 ,something greater than man and before him1 to which he sustains the relation that the unborn child sustains to its mother1 must enter into our thought of his origin and development4 ,the great evolutionists have been very cautious about seeking to go behind evolution and name the ,primal ,cause4 ,in such an attempt science would at once be beyond soundings4 ,darwin and ,huxley were reverent1 truth-loving men1 but they hesitated as men of science to put themselves in a position where no step could be taken4 ,slowly man emerges out of the abyss of geologic time into the dawn of history1 and science gropes about like a man feeling his way in the dark or1 at most1 by the aid now and then of a dim flash of light1 to trace the path he has come4 ,he has surely arrived1 and we are1 ,i believe1 safe in saying he has come by the way of the lower orders2 but the precise forms through which he has come1 the houses in which he has tarried by the way1 and all the adventures and vicissitudes that befell him on the journey--can we ever hope to know these things8 ,in any case1 man has his antecedents2 life has its antecedents2 every beat of one's heart has its antecedent cause1 which again has its antecedent4 ,we can thus traverse the chain of causation only to find it is an endless chain2 the separate links we can examine1 but the first link or the last we see1 by the very nature of things1 and the laws of our own minds1 must forever elude us4 ,science cannot admit of a break in the chain of causation1 cannot admit that miracles or the supernatural in the old sense1 as external and arbitrary interference with the natural order1 can play or ever have played any part in this universe4 ,yet science has to postulate a ,first ,cause when it knows1 or metaphysics knows for it1 that with the ,infinite there can be no first and no last1 no beginning and no ending1 only endless succession4 ,to science man is not a fallen creature1 but a many times risen creature and all the good of the universe centres in him4 ,the mind that pervades all nature and is active in plant and animal alike first comes to know itself and regard itself and achieve intellectual appreciation in man4 ,while all nature below man is wise only to its own ends and goes its appointed way as void of self-consciousness as the stone that falls or the wind that blows1 the mind of man attains to disinterested wisdom and turns upon itself and upon the universe the power of objective thought2 it alone achieves understanding4 ,in our studies of life and of the universe as soon as we begin to bridge chasms by an appeal to the miraculous1 or to the extra-natural powers1 we are traitors to the scientific spirit which we seek to serve4 ,there are many things that science cannot explain4 ,perhaps ,i may say that it cannot give the ultimate explanation of anything4 ,it can do little more than tell us of the action1 the interaction1 and the reaction of things1 but of the things themselves1 their origin and ultimate nature1 or the source of the laws that govern them1 what does it or what can it know8 ,man is the heir of all the geologic ages2 he inherits the earth after countless generations of animals and plants1 and the beneficent forces of wind and rain1 air and sky1 have in the course of millions of years prepared it for him4 ,his body has been built for him through the lives and struggles of the countless beings who are in the line of his long descent2 his mind is equally an accumulated inheritance of the mental growth of the myriads of thinking men and unthinking animals that went before him4 ,in the forms of his humbler forebears he has himself lived and died myriads of times to make ready the soil that nurses and sustains him to-day4 ,he is a debtor to ,cambrian and ,silurian times1 to the dragons and saurians and mastodons that have roamed over the earth4 ,indeed1 what is there or has there been in the universe that he is not indebted to8 ,the remotest star that shines has sent a ray that has entered into his life4 ,all things are under his feet1 and the keys of the heavens are in his hands4 ,v ,one would fain arrive at some concrete belief or image of his line of descent in geologic time as he does in the historic period4 ,but how hard it is to do so6 ,can we form any mental picture of the actual animal forms that the manward impulse has traveled through8 ,with all the light that palaeontology throws upon the animal life of the past1 can we see where amid the revel of these bizarre forms our ancestor hid himself8 ,can we see him as a reptile in the slime of the jungle or in the waters of the ,mesozoic world8 ,what was he like or what akin to8 ,what mark or sign was there upon him at that time of the future that was before him8 ,can we see him as a fish in the old ,devonian seas or lakes8 ,was he a big fish or a little fish8 ,the primitive fishes were mostly of the shark kind4 ,is there any connection between that fact and the human sharks of to-day8 ,much less can one picture to one's self what his ancestor was like in the age of the invertebrates1 amid the trilobites1 etc41 of the earlier ,palaeozoic seas4 ,but we must go back even earlier than that1 back to unicellular life and to original protoplasm1 and finally back to fiery nebulous matter4 ,what can we make of it all by way of concrete conception of what actually took place--of the visible1 eating1 warring1 breeding animal forms in whose safekeeping our heritage lay8 ,nothing4 ,we are not merely at sea1 we are in abysmal depths1 and the darkness is so thick we can cut it4 ,we meet the same difficulty when we try to figure to ourselves the line of descent of any of the animal forms of to-day4 ,how did they escape the world-wild catastrophe of earlier geologic times8 ,or did the creative impulse bank upon life as a whole and never become bankrupt1 no matter what special lines or forms failed8 ,the first appearance of the primates is in ,eocene times and the anthropoid apes in the ,miocene1 probably five millions of years ago4 ,the form which may have been in our line of descent1 the ,dryopithecus1 later appears to have become extinct4 ,did our fate hang upon the success of any of these forms8 ,the monkeys and anthropoid apes appeared at the same time in different countries4 ,nature seems to have been making preliminary studies of man in these various forms1 but when and where she hit upon the form that she perfected in man1 who knows8 ,the horse appears to have been evolved in ,north ,america1 true cattle in ,asia1 elephants in ,africa4 ,can we narrow their line of descent down to a single pair for each8 ,many forms allied to the horse appeared in ,europe and ,asia in ,miocene times4 ,we find monkeys in different parts of the world in the same geologic horizons2 did they all have a common origin8 ,life's apprenticeship has been a long one4 ,the earlier forms of vertebrate life were very large2 later they became very small4 ,nature seems to have experimented with bulk1 as if she thought size would win in the race4 ,hence those huge uncouth forms among the reptiles and early mammals4 ,the scheme did not work well2 bulk was not the thing1 after all4 ,most of the gigantic forms became extinct4 ,then she tried smaller and more agile forms with larger brains--less flesh and more wit4 ,on this line ,nature continued to work till she produced her masterpiece in man--a rather feeble and nearly weaponless animal1 but with an intangible armory of weapons and tools in his brain that enables him to put all creatures under his feet4 ,,xii ,,the ,,hazards ,,of ,,the ,,past ,i ,bergson1 the new ,french philosopher1 thinks we all had a narrow escape1 back in geologic time1 of having our eggs spoiled before they were hatched1 or1 rather1 rendered incapable of hatching by too thick a shell4 ,this was owing to the voracity of the early organisms4 ,as they became more and more mobile1 they began to take on thick armors and breastplates and shells and calcareous skins to protect themselves from one another4 ,this tendency resulted1 he thinks1 in the arrest of the entire animal world in its evolution toward higher and higher forms4 ,these shells and armors begat a kind of torpor and immobility which has continued down to our day with the echinoderms and mollusks1 but the arthropods and vertebrates escaped it by some lucky stroke4 ,now you and ,i are here without imprisoning shells on our backs2 but how or why did we escape8 ,bergson does not say4 ,was it a matter of luck or chance8 ,was there ever a time when the stream of life tended to harden and become fixed in its own forms like a stream of cooling lava1 or has the innate plasticity of life been easily equal to its own ends8 ,true1 the clam remains a clam1 and the starfish remains a starfish2 some other forms have carried the evolutionary impulse forward till it flowered in man4 ,was this impulse ever really checked or endangered8 ,was the golden secret ever intrusted to the keeping of any single form8 and1 had that form been cut off1 would the earth have been still without its man8 ,these are puzzling questions4 ,thus1 when we have come to look upon life and nature in the light of evolution1 what vistas are opened to us where before were only blank walls6 ,the geologic ages take on a new interest to us4 ,we know that in some form we were even there4 ,the systems of sedimentary rocks which the geologist portrays1 piled one upon the other to a depth of fifty miles or more1 seem like the stairway by which we have ascended1 taking on some new and more developed form at each rise4 ,what we were at the first step in ,cambrian times only the ,lord knows1 but whatever we were1 we crept up or floated up to the next rise4 ,in the ,silurian seas we may have been a trilobite for aught we know2 at any rate1 we were the outcome of the life impulse that begat the trilobites1 but our fate was not bound up with theirs1 as their race came to an end in those early geologic ages1 and our stem form did not4 ,whether or not we were a fish in the ,devonian seas1 there is little doubt that we had gills1 because we have the gill slits yet in our early foetal life1 and it is quite certain that in some way we owe our backbones to the fishes4 ,when the rocks that form my native ,catskills were being laid down in the ,devonian waters1 ,i fancy that my aquatic embryo was swimming about somewhere and slowly waxing strong4 ,up and up ,i climbed across the sandstone steps1 across the limestone1 the conglomerate1 the slate1 up into ,carboniferous times4 ,the upper and nether millstones of the millstone grit did not crush me1 neither did the floods and the convulsions of ,carboniferous times that buried the vast vegetable growths that resulted in our coal measures engulf or destroy me4 ,about that time probably1 ,i emerged from the water and became an amphibian1 and maybe got my five fingers and five toes on each side4 ,nor did the wholesale destruction of animal life at the end of ,palaeozoic time cut off my line of descent4 ,the monstrous reptiles of the succeeding or ,mesozoic age1 the petrified remains of one of which was recently found in the sandstone rocks near the river's edge under the ,palisades of the ,hudson1 do not seem to have endangered the golden thread by which our fate hung4 ,still ,i mount and mount4 ,the stairs by which ,i climb were rent by earthquakes and volcanoes1 the strata were squeezed up and overturned and folded in the great mountain-chains2 the ,alps1 the ,andes1 the ,himalayas1 the ,coast ,range were born2 the earth-throes must have been tremendous at times2 yet ,i escaped it all4 ,the huge and fearful mammals of the third or ,tertiary period passed me by unharmed4 ,eruptions and cataclysms1 the sinking of the land1 the inundations of the sea1 world-wide deformations of the earth's crust1 fire and ice and floods1 monsters of the deep and dragons of the land and the air have beset my course from the first1 and yet here ,i am1 here we all are1 and apparently none the worse for the appalling dangers we have passed through4 ,evolution thus makes the world over for us4 ,it shows us in what a complex web of vital and far-reaching relations we stand4 ,it gives us an outlook upon the past that is startling1 and in some ways forbidding1 yet one that ought to be stimulating and inspiring4 ,if we look back with a shudder we should look forward with a thrill4 ,if the past is terrible1 the future is in the same degree cheering and inviting4 ,if we came out of those lowly and groveling forms1 to what heights of being may we not be carried by the impetus that brought us thus far8 ,in fact1 to what heights has it already carried us6 ,,ii ,that the hazards of the past1 to many forms of life1 at least1 have been real and no myth1 is evident from the vast number of forms that have been cut off and become extinct2 various causes1 now hard to decipher1 have worked together to the end1 such as changed geographical conditions1 changes of climate1 affecting the food-supply1 extreme specialization1 like that of the sabre-toothed tiger whose petrified remains have been found in various parts of this continent1 and who apparently was finally handicapped by his huge dental sabre4 ,probably many more species of animals have become extinct than have survived1 but none of these could have been in the line of man's descent1 else the human race would not have been here4 ,if the ,eocene progenitor of the horse1 the little four-toed eohippus1 had been cut off1 would not the world have been horseless to-day8 ,the horse in ,america became extinct1 from some cause only conjectural1 many tens of thousands of years ago4 ,had the same fate befallen the horse in ,europe and ,asia1 it seems probable that our civilization would have been far less advanced to-day than it is4 ,the fate of every species of mammal in our time seems to have been in the keeping of a single form in early ,tertiary times4 ,the end of the ,cretaceous or chalk period saw the extinction of the giant reptiles both of sea and of land1 at the same time that it saw the appearance of a great many species of small and inconspicuous mammals1 among which doubtless were our own humble forebears4 ,extreme specialization in any direction may narrow an animal's chances of survival2 they have but one chance in the game of life1 whereas an animal with a more generalized organization has many chances4 ,man is one of the most generalized of animals2 no special tools1 no special weapons--his hand many tools and weapons in one4 ,hence he is the most adaptable of animals2 all climes1 all foods1 all places are his2 he is master of the land1 of the sea1 of the air4 ,animal life is often curiously interdependent4 ,i asked our guide in the ,adirondacks if there were any ravens there4 ,not nearly as many as there used to be1 he said1 and his explanation of their disappearance seems thoroughly scientific2 it was that the wolves and the panthers kept them in meat1 and now that these animals had disappeared1 the ravens had little to feed upon4 ,if the moose were compelled to graze from off the ground1 like a sheep or a cow1 the species would probably soon become extinct4 ,osborn thinks it probable that the huge beast called titanothere finally became extinct early in ,tertiary times owing to the form of its teeth1 which were of such a type that they could not change to meet a change in the flora upon which the creature fed4 ,of course we shall never know what narrow escapes our race had from extinction in the remote past2 some forms have ended in a blind alley1 like the sea-urchin and the oyster4 ,arthropoda have continued to evolve and have reached their high-water mark of intelligence in bees and ants4 ,the vertebrates went forward and have culminated in man4 ,bergson thinks that in the vertebrates intelligence has been developed at the expense of instinct1 and that in the invertebrates instinct has been perfected at the expense of intelligence4 ,are we not compelled to adopt what is called the monophyletic hypothesis1 that is1 that our line of descent started from one pair1 male and female1 somewhere in the vast stretch of geologic or biologic time1 and to reason that1 had that pair been out of the race1 we should not have appeared8 ,can we narrow life to a single point1 a single cell1 in the past8 ,was there one and only one first bit of protoplasm8 ,if we were to say that life first appeared on the globe in ,cambrian times1 just what should we mean8 ,that it began as a single point1 or as many points8 ,when we say that the primates first appeared in ,eocene times1 do we mean that one single primate appeared then8 ,if so1 what form went immediately before him8 ,this is all a vain speculation4 ,does man presuppose all the vertebrate sub-kingdom8 ,was he safe as long as one vertebrate form remained8 ,are his forebears many1 and not one pair8 ,can we think of his ancestry under the image of a tree1 and of him as one of the many branches8 ,if so1 nothing but the destruction of the tree would have imperiled his appearance1 or the lopping off of his particular branch4 ,probably all such images are misleading4 ,we simply cannot figure to ourselves the tangled course of our biological descent4 ,if thwartings and accidents arid delays could have cut man off1 how could he have escaped8 ,we cannot think of man as one2 we are compelled to think of him as many2 and yet in all our experience the many come from the one1 or the one pair4 ,how thick the field of animal life in the past is strewn with extinct forms6--as thick as the sidereal spaces are strewn with the fragments of wrecked worlds6 ,but other worlds and suns are spun out of the wrecked worlds and suns through the process of cosmic evolution4 ,the world-stuff is worked over and over4 ,extinct animal forms must have given rise to other1 allied forms before they perished1 and these to still others1 and so on down to our time4 ,the image of a tree is misleading from the fact that all the different branches of the animal kingdom1 from the protozoa up to man1 have come along with what we call the higher branches1 the mammals2 the suckers have kept pace with the main stalk1 so that we have the image of a sheaf of branches starting from a common origin and all of equal length4 ,man has brought on his relations along with him4 ,there is no glamour of romance over that past4 ,it was all hard1 prosy1 terrible fact4 ,the earth's crust was less stable than now1 the upheavals and subsidences and earthquakes more frequent1 the warring of the elements more fierce and incessant1 deluge and inundation in more rapid succession1 and the riot and excesses of animal life far beyond anything we know of4 ,and our line of descent was taking its chances amid it all4 ,the widespread blotting out of life at the end of ,palaeozoic time1 and again at the end of ,mesozoic times1 when myriads of forms were cut off1 probably from some convulsion of nature or some cosmic catastrophe2 and again during the ice age1 when the camel1 the llama1 the horse1 the tapir1 the mastodon1 the elephant1 the giant sloth1 became extinct in ,north ,america--how fared it with our ancestor during these terrible ages8 ,there is no sure trace of him till late ,tertiary times1 and it is probably not more than two hundred thousand years ago that he assumed the upright attitude and began to use tools4 ,probably in ,europe fifty thousand years ago he was living in caves1 clothed in skins1 contending with the cave bear and cave lion1 using rude stone implements1 and hunting the hairy mastodon1 etc4 ,in ,asia the probabilities are that he was farther on the road toward the dawn of history4 ,we may think of our descent in the historic period under the image of the stream1 though of a stream many times delayed and diverted1 even many times diminished by wars and plagues and famine1 but a stream with some sort of unity and continuity1 since man became man4 ,the stream of life is like any other stream in this respect4 ,divert or use up part of the water of a stream1 yet what is left flows on and keeps up the continuity and identity of the stream2 dip your cup into it here1 and you will not get precisely the same water you would have got had none of it been diverted or used far back in its course--you get the water that was allowed to flow by4 ,had there been no loss of life by war and pestilence and accidents of various kinds1 the different countries would have been occupied by quite other men and women than those that fill them to-day4 ,the course of life in every neighborhood is changed by what seem like accidental causes1 as when a family is practically wiped out by some accident or dread disease4 ,this brings new people on the scene4 ,the farm or the business falls into other hands1 and new social relations spring up1 new men and women are brought together or the old ones driven apart1 marriage is hastened or retarded1 opportunities for family life are made or unmade1 and fewer children1 or more children1 as the case may be1 are the result4 ,the issue of some battle hundreds or thousands of years ago may have played a part in your life and mine to-day--other races1 other individuals of the race1 would have been thrown together had the issue been different1 and other families started1 so that some one else would have been here in our stead4 ,but the question of hazard to the race of man in geologic time is quite a different one4 ,here our fate seems to hang by a single thread--a golden thread1 we may call it1 but1 in that terrible maze of clashing forces and devouring forms of the vast geologic periods1 how liable to be broken6 ,it is not now a question of the continuity of a stream1 but of the continuity of a single evolutionary process1 or1 as ,haeckel says1 the continuity of the morphological chain which stretches from the lemurs up through tailed and tailless anthropoid apes to man4 ,if the evolutionary impulse had been checked or extinguished in the lemur--that small apelike animal that went before the true ape1 the fossil remains of which have been found on this continent and the survivals of which are now found in ,madagascar--would man have appeared8 ,again1 if the race of lemurs developed from a single pair1 how precarious seems our fate6 ,in fact1 if any of the transitional forms between species can be reduced to a single pair--as the forms that connect the reptiles with the mammals--our fate would seem to be in the keeping of these forms4 ,over this single frail bridge which escaped the floods and the tornadoes and the earthquakes of those terrible ages we must have passed4 ,what risky business it all seems6 ,was it luck or law that favored us8 ,doubtless1 if we could penetrate the mystery1 we should see that there was no chance or risk in the matter4 ,we cannot go very far in solving these great fundamental questions by applying to them the tests of our own experience1 ,numberless specific forms become extinct1 but the impulse that begat the form does not die out4 ,thus1 all the giant reptiles died out--the dinosaurs1 the mesosaurs--but the reptilian impulse still survives4 ,how many types of invertebrates have perished6 but the invertebrate impulse still goes on4 ,how many species of mammals have been cut off6 yet the mammal impulse has steadily gone forward4 ,these things suggest the wave that moves on but leaves the water behind4 ,the vertebrate impulse began in wormlike forms1 in the old ,palaeozoic seas1 and stopped not till it culminated in man4 ,this impulse has left many forms behind it2 but has this impulse itself ever been endangered8 ,if one looks at the matter thus in an abstract instead of a concrete way1 the problem of our descent becomes easier4 ,when we look at the evolution of life on a grand scale1 nature seems to feel her way1 like a blind man1 groping1 hesitating1 trying this road and then that4 ,in some cases the line of evolution seems to end in a cul de sac beyond which no progress is possible4 ,the forms thus cornered soon become extinct4 ,the mystery1 the unaccountable thing1 is the appearance of new characters4 ,the slow modification or transformation of an existing character may often be traced2 natural selection1 or the struggle for existence1 takes it in hand and adapts and perpetuates it1 or else eliminates it4 ,but the origin of certain new parts or characters--that is the secret of the evolutionary process4 ,thus there was a time when no animal had horns2 then horns appeared4 ,in the great quadruped known as titanothere1 says ,osborn1 rudiments of horns first arise independently at certain definite parts of the skull2 they arise at first alike in both sexes1 or asexually2 then they become sexual1 or chiefly characteristic of males2 then they rapidly evolve in the males while being arrested in development in the females2 finally1 they become in some of the animals dominant characteristics to which all others bend4 ,nature seems to throw out these new characters and then lets them take their chances in the clash of forces and tendencies that go on in the arena of life4 ,if they serve a purpose or are an advantage1 they remain2 if not1 they drop out4 ,nature feels her way4 ,the horns proved of less advantage to the females than to the males2 they seem a part of the plus or overflow of the male principle1 like the beard in man--the badge of masculinity4 ,the titanothere is traceable back to a hornless animal the size of a sheep1 and it ended in a horned quadruped nearly as large as an elephant4 ,it flourished in ,wyoming in early ,tertiary times4 ,nature did not seem to know what to do with horns when she first got them4 ,she played with them like a child with a new toy4 ,thus she gave two pairs to several species of mammals1 one pair on the nose and one pair on the top of the skull--certainly an embarrassment of weapons4 ,the first horns appear to have been crude1 heavy1 uncouth1 but long before we reach our own geologic era they appear in various species of quadrupeds1 and become graceful and ornamental4 ,how beautiful they are in many of the ,african antelope tribe6 ,nature's workmanship nearly always improves with time1 like that of man's1 and sooner or later takes on an ornamental phase4 ,the early uncouth1 bizarre forms seem to be the result of the excess or surplus of life4 ,life in remote biologic times was rank and riotous1 as it is now1 in a measure1 in tropical lands4 ,one reason may be that the climate of the globe during the middle period1 and well into the third period1 appears to have been of a tropical character4 ,the climatic and seasonal divisions were not at all pronounced1 and both animal and vegetable life took on gigantic and grotesque forms4 ,in the ugliness of alligator and rhinoceros and hippopotamus of our day we get some hint of what early reptilian and mammalian life was like4 ,that ,nature should have turned out better and better handiwork as the ages passed2 that she either should have improved upon every model or else discarded it2 that she should have progressed from the bird1 half-dragon1 to the sweet songsters of our day and to the superb forms of the air that we know2 that evolution should have entered upon a refining and spiritualizing phase1 developing larger brains and smaller bodies1 is a very significant fact1 and one quite beyond the range of the mechanistic conception of life4 ,our own immediate line of descent leads down through the minor forms of ,tertiary and ,mesozoic times--forms that probably skulked and dodged about amid the terrible and gigantic creatures of those ages as the small game of to-day hide and flee from the presence of their arch-enemy1 man2 and that the frail line upon which the fate of the human race hung should not have been severed during the wild turmoil of those ages is1 to me1 a source of perpetual wonder4 ,,iii ,the hazards of the future of the race must be quite different from those ,i have been considering4 ,they are the hazards incident to an exceptional being upon this earth--a being that takes his fate in his own hands in a sense that no other creature does4 ,man has partaken of the fruit of the ,tree of ,good and ,evil1 which all the lower orders have escaped4 ,he knows1 and knows that he knows4 ,will this knowledge1 through the opposition in which it places him to elemental nature and the vast system of artificial things with which it has enabled him to surround himself1 cut short his history upon this planet8 ,will ,nature in the end be avenged for the secrets he has forced from her8 ,his civilization has doubtless made him the victim of diseases to which the lower orders1 and even savage man1 are strangers4 ,will not these diseases increase as his life becomes more and more complex and artificial8 ,will he go on extending his mastery over ,nature and refining or suppressing his natural appetites till his original hold upon life is fatally enfeebled8 ,it seems as though science ought to save man and prolong his stay on this planet1--it ought to bring him natural salvation1 as his religion promises him supernatural salvation4 ,but of course1 man's fate is bound up with the fate of the planet and of the biological tree of which he is one of the shoots4 ,biology is rooted in geology4 ,the higher forms of life did not arbitrarily appear1 they flowed out of conditions that were long in maturing2 they flowered in season1 and the flower will fall in season4 ,man could not have appeared earlier than he did1 nor later than he did2 he came out of what went before1 and he will go out with what comes after4 ,his coming was natural1 and his going will be natural4 ,his period had a beginning1 and it will have an end4 ,natural philosophy leads one to affirm this2 but of time measured by human history he may yet have a lease of tens of thousands of years4 ,the hazard of the future is a question of both astronomy and geology4 ,that there are cosmic dangers1 though infinitely remote1 every astronomer knows4 ,that there are collisions between heavenly bodies is an indubitable fact1 and if collisions do happen to any1 allow time enough and they must happen to all4 ,that there are geologic dangers through the shifting and crumpling of the earth's crust1 every geologist knows1 though probably none that could wipe out the whole race of man4 ,the biologic dangers of the past we have outlived--the dangers that must have beset a single line of descent amid the carnival of power and the ferocity of the monster reptiles of ,mesozoic times1 and the wholesale extinction of species that occurred in different geologic periods4 ,nothing but a cosmic catastrophe1 involving the fate of the whole earth1 could now exterminate the human race4 ,it is highly improbable that this will ever happen4 ,the race of man will go out from a slow1 insensible failure1 through the aging of the planet1 of the conditions of life that brought man here4 ,the evolutionary process upon a cooling world must1 after the elapse of a vast period of time1 lose its impetus and cease4 ,,xiii ,,the ,,gospel ,,of ,,nature ,i ,the other day a clergyman who described himself as a preacher of the gospel of ,christ wrote1 asking me to come and talk to his people on the gospel of ,nature4 ,the request set me to thinking whether or not ,nature has any gospel in the sense the clergyman had in mind1 any message that is likely to be specially comforting to the average orthodox religious person4 ,i suppose the parson wished me to tell his flock what ,i had found in ,nature that was a strength or a solace to myself4 ,what had all my many years of journeyings to ,nature yielded me that would supplement or reinforce the gospel he was preaching8 ,had the birds taught me any valuable lessons8 ,had the four-footed beasts8 ,had the insects8 ,had the flowers1 the trees1 the soil1 the coming and the going of the seasons8 ,had ,i really found sermons in stones1 books in running brooks and good in everything8 ,had the lilies of the field1 that neither toil nor spin1 and yet are more royally clad than ,solomon in all his glory1 helped me in any way to clothe myself with humility1 with justice1 with truthfulness8 ,it is not easy for one to say just what he owes to all these things4 ,natural influences work indirectly as well as directly2 they work upon the subconscious1 as well as upon the conscious1 self4 ,that ,i am a saner1 healthier1 more contented man1 with truer standards of life1 for all my loiterings in the fields and woods1 ,i am fully convinced4 ,that ,i am less social1 less interested in my neighbors and in the body politic1 more inclined to shirk civic and social responsibilities and to stop my ears against the brawling of the reformers1 is perhaps equally true4 ,one thing is certain1 in a hygienic way ,i owe much to my excursions to ,nature4 ,they have helped to clothe me with health1 if not with humility2 they have helped sharpen and attune all my senses2 they have kept my eyes in such good trim that they have not failed me for one moment during all the seventy-five years ,i have had them2 they have made my sense of smell so keen that ,i have much pleasure in the wild1 open-air perfumes1 especially in the spring--the delicate breath of the blooming elms and maples and willows1 the breath of the woods1 of the pastures1 of the shore4 ,this keen1 healthy sense of smell has made me abhor tobacco and flee from close rooms1 and put the stench of cities behind me4 ,i fancy that this whole world of wild1 natural perfumes is lost to the tobacco-user and to the city- dweller4 ,senses trained in the open air are in tune with open-air objects2 they are quick1 delicate1 and discriminating4 ,when ,i go to town1 my ear suffers as well as my nose3 the impact of the city upon my senses is hard and dissonant2 the ear is stunned1 the nose is outraged1 and the eye is confused4 ,when ,i come back1 ,i go to ,nature to be soothed and healed1 and to have my senses put in tune once more4 ,i know that1 as a rule1 country or farming folk are not remarkable for the delicacy of their senses1 but this is owing mainly to the benumbing and brutalizing effect of continued hard labor4 ,it is their minds more than their bodies that suffer4 ,when ,i have dwelt in cities the country was always near by1 and ,i used to get a bite of country soil at least once a week to keep my system normal4 ,emerson says that the day does not seem wholly profane in which we have given heed to some natural object4 ,if ,emerson had stopped to qualify his remark1 he would have added1 if we give heed to it in the right spirit1 if we give heed to it as a nature-lover and truth-seeker4 ,nature love as ,emerson knew it1 and as ,wordsworth knew it1 and as any of the choicer spirits of our time have known it1 has distinctly a religious value4 ,it does not come to a man or a woman who is wholly absorbed in selfish or worldly or material ends4 ,except ye become in a measure as little children1 ye cannot enter the kingdom of ,nature--as ,audubon entered it1 as ,thoreau entered it1 as ,bryant and ,amiel entered it1 and as all those enter it who make it a resource in their lives and an instrument of their culture4 ,the forms and creeds of religion change1 but the sentiment of religion--the wonder and reverence and love we feel in the presence of the inscrutable universe--persists4 ,indeed1 these seem to be renewing their life to-day in this growing love for all natural objects and in this increasing tenderness toward all forms of life4 ,if we do not go to church so much as did our fathers1 we go to the woods much more1 and are much more inclined to make a temple of them than they were4 ,we now use the word ,nature very much as our fathers used the word ,god1 and1 ,i suppose1 back of it all we mean the power that is everywhere present and active1 and in whose lap the visible universe is held and nourished4 ,it is a power that we can see and touch and hear1 and realize every moment of our lives how absolutely we are dependent upon it4 ,there are no atheists or skeptics in regard to this power4 ,all men see how literally we are its children1 and all men learn how swift and sure is the penalty of disobedience to its commands4 ,our associations with ,nature vulgarize it and rob it of its divinity4 ,when we come to see that the celestial and the terrestrial are one1 that time and eternity are one1 that mind and matter are one1 that death and life are one1 that there is and can be nothing not inherent in ,nature1 then we no longer look for or expect a far-off1 unknown ,god4 ,nature teaches more than she preaches4 ,there are no sermons in stones4 ,it is easier to get a spark out of a stone than a moral4 ,even when it contains a fossil1 it teaches history rather than morals4 ,it comes down from the fore-world an undigested bit that has resisted the tooth and maw of time1 and can tell you many things if you have the eye to read them4 ,the soil upon which it lies or in which it is imbedded was rock1 too1 back in geologic time1 but the mill that ground it up passed the fragment of stone through without entirely reducing it4 ,very likely it is made up of the minute remains of innumerable tiny creatures that lived and died in the ancient seas4 ,very likely it was torn from its parent rock and brought to the place where it now lies by the great ice-flood that many tens of thousands of years ago crept slowly but irresistibly down out of the ,north over the greater part of all the northern continents4 ,but all this appeals to the intellect1 and contains no lesson for the moral nature4 ,if we are to find sermons in stones1 we are to look for them in the relations of the stones to other things--when they are out of place1 when they press down the grass or the flowers1 or impede the plow1 or dull the scythe1 or usurp the soil1 or shelter vermin1 as do old institutions and old usages that have had their day4 ,a stone that is much knocked about gets its sharp angles worn off1 as do men4 ,a rolling stone gathers no moss1 which is not bad for the stone1 as moss hastens decay4 ,killing two birds with one stone is a bad saying1 because it reminds boys to stone the birds1 which is bad for both boys and birds4 ,but ,people who live in glass houses should not throw stones is on the right side of the account1 as it discourages stone-throwing and reminds us that we are no better than our neighbors4 ,the lesson in running brooks is that motion is a great purifier and health-producer4 ,when the brook ceases to run1 it soon stagnates4 ,it keeps in touch with the great vital currents when it is in motion1 and unites with other brooks to help make the river4 ,in motion it soon leaves all mud and sediment behind4 ,do not proper work and the exercise of will power have the same effect upon our lives8 ,the other day in my walk ,i came upon a sap-bucket that had been left standing by the maple tree all the spring and summer4 ,what a bucketful of corruption was that1 a mixture of sap and rainwater that had rotted1 and smelled to heaven4 ,mice and birds and insects had been drowned in it1 and added to its unsavory character4 ,it was a bit of ,nature cut off from the vitalizing and purifying chem- istry of the whole4 ,with what satisfaction ,i emptied it upon the ground while ,i held my nose and saw it filter into the turf1 where ,i knew it was dying to go and where ,i knew every particle of the reeking1 fetid fluid would soon be made sweet and wholesome again by the chemistry of the soil6 ,,ii ,i am not always in sympathy with nature-study as pursued in the schools1 as if this kingdom could be carried by assault4 ,such study is too cold1 too special1 too mechanical2 it is likely to rub the bloom off ,nature4 ,it lacks soul and emotion2 it misses the accessories of the open air and its exhilarations1 the sky1 the clouds1 the landscape1 and the currents of life that pulse everywhere4 ,i myself have never made a dead set at studying ,nature with note-book and field-glass in hand4 ,i have rather visited with her4 ,we have walked together or sat down together1 and our intimacy grows with the seasons4 ,what ,i have learned about her ways ,i have learned easily1 almost unconsciously1 while fishing or camping or idling about4 ,my desultory habits have their disadvantages1 no doubt1 but they have their advantages also4 ,a too strenuous pursuit defeats itself4 ,in the fields and woods more than anywhere else all things come to those who wait1 because all things are on the move1 and are sure sooner or later to come your way4 ,to absorb a thing is better than to learn it1 and we absorb what we enjoy4 ,we learn things at school1 we absorb them in the fields and woods and on the farm4 ,when we look upon ,nature with fondness and appreciation she meets us halfway and takes a deeper hold upon us than when studiously conned4 ,hence ,i say the way of knowledge of ,nature is the way of love and enjoyment1 and is more surely found in the open air than in the school-room or the laboratory4 ,the other day ,i saw a lot of college girls dissecting cats and making diagrams of the circulation and muscle-attachments1 and ,i thought it pretty poor business unless the girls were taking a course in comparative anatomy with a view to some occupation in life4 ,what is the moral and intellectual value of this kind of knowledge to those girls8 ,biology is1 no doubt1 a great science in the hands of great men1 but it is not for all4 ,i myself have got along very well without it4 ,i am sure ,i can learn more of what ,i want to know from a kitten on my knee than from the carcass of a cat in the laboratory4 ,darwin spent eight years dissecting barnacles2 but he was ,darwin1 and did not stop at barnacles1 as these college girls are pretty sure to stop at cats4 ,he dissected and put together again in his mental laboratory the whole system of animal life1 and the upshot of his work was a tremendous gain to our understanding of the universe4 ,i would rather see the girls in the fields and woods studying and enjoying living nature1 training their eyes to see correctly and their hearts to respond intelligently4 ,what is knowledge without enjoyment1 without love8 ,it is sympathy1 appreciation1 emotional experience1 which refine and elevate and breathe into exact knowledge the breath of life4 ,my own interest is in living nature as it moves and flourishes about me winter and summer4 ,i know it is one thing to go forth as a nature-lover1 and quite another to go forth in a spirit of cold1 calculating1 exact science4 ,i call myself a nature-lover and not a scientific naturalist4 ,all that science has to tell me is welcome1 is1 indeed1 eagerly sought for4 ,i must know as well as feel4 ,i am not merely contented1 like ,wordsworth's poet1 to enjoy what others understand4 ,i must understand also2 but above all things ,i must enjoy4 ,how much of my enjoyment springs from my knowledge ,i do not know4 ,the joy of knowing is very great2 the delight of picking up the threads of meaning here and there1 and following them through the maze of confusing facts1 ,i know well4 ,when ,i hear the woodpecker drumming on a dry limb in spring or the grouse drumming in the woods1 and know what it is all for1 why1 that knowledge1 ,i suppose1 is part of my enjoyment4 ,the other part is the associations that those sounds call up as voicing the arrival of spring3 they are the drums that lead the joyous procession4 ,to enjoy understandingly1 that1 ,i fancy1 is the great thing to be desired4 ,when ,i see the large ichneumon-fly1 ,thalessa1 making a loop over her back with her long ovipositor and drilling a hole in the trunk of a tree1 ,i do not fully appreciate the spectacle till ,i know she is feeling for the burrow of a tree-borer1 ,tremex1 upon the larvae of which her own young feed4 ,she must survey her territory like an oil-digger and calculate where she is likely to strike oil1 which in her case is the burrow of her host ,tremex4 ,there is a vast series of facts in natural history like this that are of little interest until we understand them4 ,they are like the outside of a book which may attract us1 but which can mean little to us until we have opened and perused its pages4 ,the nature-lover is not looking for mere facts1 but for meanings1 for something he can translate into the terms of his own life4 ,he wants facts1 but significant facts--luminous facts that throw light upon the ways of animate and inanimate nature4 ,a bird picking up crumbs from my window-sill does not mean much to me4 ,it is a pleasing sight and touches a tender cord1 but it does not add much to my knowledge of bird-life4 ,but when ,i see a bird pecking and fluttering angrily at my window-pane1 as ,i now and then do in spring1 apparently under violent pressure to get in1 ,i am witnessing a significant comedy in bird-life1 one that illustrates the limits of animal instinct4 ,the bird takes its own reflected image in the glass for a hated rival1 and is bent on demolishing it4 ,let the assaulting bird get a glimpse of the inside of the empty room through a broken pane1 and it is none the wiser2 it returns to the assault as vigorously as ever4 ,the fossils in the rocks did not mean much to the earlier geologists4 ,they looked upon them as freaks of ,nature1 whims of the creative energy1 or vestiges of ,noah's flood4 ,you see they were blinded by the preconceived notions of the six-day theory of creation4 ,,iii ,i do not know that the bird has taught me any valuable lesson4 ,indeed1 ,i do not go to ,nature to be taught4 ,i go for enjoyment and companionship4 ,i go to bathe in her as in a sea2 ,i go to give my eyes and ears and all my senses a free1 clean field and to tone up my spirits by her primal sanities4 ,if the bird has not preached to me1 it has added to the resources of my life1 it has widened the field of my interests1 it has afforded me another beautiful object to love1 and has helped make me feel more at home in this world4 ,to take the birds out of my life would be like lopping off so many branches from the tree3 there is so much less surface of leafage to absorb the sunlight and bring my spirits in contact with the vital currents4 ,we cannot pursue any natural study with love and enthusiasm without the object of it becoming a part of our lives4 ,the birds1 the flowers1 the trees1 the rocks1 all become linked with our lives and hold the key to our thoughts and emotions4 ,not till the bird becomes a part of your life can its coming and its going mean much to you4 ,and it becomes a part of your life when you have taken heed of it with interest and affection1 when you have established associations with it1 when it voices the spring or the summer to you1 when it calls up the spirit of the woods or the fields or the shore4 ,when year after year you have heard the veery in the beech and birch woods along the trout streams1 or the wood thrush ,may after ,may in the groves where you have walked or sat1 and the bobolink summer after summer in the home meadows1 or the vesper sparrow in the upland pastures where you have loitered as a boy or mused as a man1 these birds will really be woven into the texture of your life4 ,what lessons the birds have taught me ,i cannot recall2 what a joy they have been to me ,i know well4 ,in a new place1 amid strange scenes1 theirs are the voices and the faces of old friends4 ,in ,bermuda the bluebirds and the catbirds and the cardinals seemed to make ,american territory of it4 ,our birds had annexed the island despite the ,britishers4 ,for many years ,i have in late ,april seen the red-poll warbler1 perhaps for only a single day1 flitting about as ,i walked or worked4 ,it is usually my first warbler1 and my associations with it are very pleasing4 ,but ,i really did not know how pleasing until1 one ,march day1 when ,i was convalescing from a serious illness in one of our sea-coast towns1 ,i chanced to spy the little traveler in a vacant lot along the street1 now upon the ground1 now upon a bush1 nervous and hurried as usual1 uttering its sharp chip1 and showing the white in its tail4 ,the sight gave me a real home feeling4 ,it did me more good than the medicine ,i was taking4 ,it instantly made a living link with many past springs4 ,anything that calls up a happy past1 how it warms the present6 ,there1 too1 that same day ,i saw my first meadowlark of the season in a vacant lot1 flashing out the white quills in her tail1 and walking over the turf in the old1 erect1 alert manner4 ,the sight was as good as a letter from home1 and better3 it had a flavor of the wild and of my boyhood days on the old farm that no letter could ever have4 ,the spring birds always awaken a thrill wherever ,i am4 ,the first bobolink ,i hear flying over northward and bursting out in song now and then1 full of anticipation of those broad meadows where he will soon be with his mate2 or the first swallow twittering joyously overhead1 borne on a warm southern breeze2 or the first high-hole sounding out his long1 iterated call from the orchard or field--how all these things send a wave of emotion over me6 ,pleasures of another kind are to find a new bird1 and to see an old bird in a new place1 as ,i did recently in the old sugar-bush where ,i used to help gather and boil sap as a boy4 ,it was the logcock1 or pileated woodpecker1 a rare bird anywhere1 and one ,i had never seen before on the old farm4 ,i heard his loud cackle in a maple tree1 saw him flit from branch to branch for a few moments1 and then launch out and fly toward a distant wood4 ,but he left an impression with me that ,i should be sorry to have missed4 ,nature stimulates our aesthetic and our intellectual life and to a certain extent our religious emotions1 but ,i fear we cannot find much support for our ethical system in the ways of wild ,nature4 ,i know our artist naturalist1 ,ernest ,thompson ,seton1 claims to find what we may call the biological value of the ,ten ,commandments in the lives of the wild animals2 but ,i cannot make his reasoning hold water1 at least not much of it4 ,of course the ,ten ,commandments are not arbitrary laws4 ,they are largely founded upon the needs of the social organism2 but whether they have the same foundation in the needs of animal life apart from man1 apart from the world of moral obligation1 is another question4 ,the animals are neither moral nor immoral3 they are unmoral2 their needs are all physical4 ,it is true that the command against murder is pretty well kept by the higher animals4 ,they rarely kill their own kind3 hawks do not prey upon hawks1 nor foxes prey upon foxes1 nor weasels upon weasels2 but lower down this does not hold4 ,trout eat trout1 and pickerel eat pickerel1 and among the insects young spiders eat one another1 and the female spider eats her mate1 if she can get him4 ,there is but little1 if any1 neighborly love among even the higher animals4 ,they treat one another as rivals1 or associate for mutual protection4 ,one cow will lick and comb another in the most affectionate manner1 and the next moment savagely gore her4 ,hate and cruelty for the most part rule in the animal world4 ,a few of the higher animals are monogamous1 but by far the greater number of species are polygamous or promiscuous4 ,there is no mating or pairing in the great bovine tribe1 and none among the rodents that ,i know of1 or among the bear family1 or the cat family1 or among the seals4 ,when we come to the birds1 we find mating1 and occasional pairing for life1 as with the ostrich and perhaps the eagle4 ,as for the rights of property among the animals1 ,i do not see how we can know just how far those rights are respected among individuals of the same species4 ,we know that bees will rob bees1 and that ants will rob ants2 but whether or not one chipmunk or one flying squirrel or one wood mouse will plunder the stores of another ,i do not know4 ,probably not1 as the owner of such stores is usually on hand to protect them4 ,moreover1 these provident little creatures all lay up stores in the autumn1 before the season of scarcity sets in1 and so have no need to plunder one another4 ,in case the stores of one squirrel were destroyed by some means1 and it were able to dispossess another of its hoard1 would it not in that case be a survival of the fittest1 and so conducive to the well-being of the race of squirrels8 ,i have never known any of our wild birds to steal the nesting-material of another bird of the same kind1 but ,i have known birds to try to carry off the material belonging to other species4 ,but usually the rule of might is the rule of right among the animals4 ,as to most of the other commandments1--of coveting1 of bearing false witness1 of honoring the father and the mother1 and so forth1--how can these apply to the animals or have any biological value to them8 ,parental obedience among them is not a very definite thing4 ,there is neither obedience nor disobedience1 because there are no commands4 ,the alarm-cries of the parents are quickly understood by the young1 and their actions imitated in the presence of danger1 all of which of course has a biological value4 ,the instances which ,mr4 ,seton cites of animals fleeing to man for protection from their enemies prove to my mind only how the greater fear drives out the lesser4 ,the hotly pursued animal sees a possible cover in a group of men and horses or in an unoccupied house1 and rushes there to hide4 ,what else could the act mean8 ,so a hunted deer or sheep will leap from a precipice which1 under ordinary circumstances1 it would avoid4 ,so would a man4 ,fear makes bold in such cases4 ,i certainly have found good in everything1--in all natural processes and products1--not the good of the ,sunday-school books1 but the good of natural law and order1 the good of that system of things out of which we came and which is the source of our health and strength4 ,it is good that fire should burn1 even if it consumes your house2 it is good that force should crush1 even if it crushes you2 it is good that rain should fall1 even if it destroys your crops or floods your land4 ,plagues and pestilences attest the constancy of natural law4 ,they set us to cleaning our streets and houses and to readjusting our relations to outward nature4 ,only in a live universe could disease and death prevail4 ,death is a phase of life1 a redistributing of the type4 ,decay is another kind of growth4 ,yes1 good in everything1 because law in everything1 truth in everything1 the sequence of cause and effect in everything1 and it may all be good to me if on the right principles ,i relate my life to it4 ,i can make the heat and the cold serve me1 the winds and the floods1 gravity and all the chemical and dynamical forces1 serve me1 if ,i take hold of them by the right handle4 ,the bad in things arises from our abuse or misuse of them or from our wrong relations to them4 ,a thing is good or bad according as it stands related to my constitution4 ,we say the order of nature is rational2 but is it not because our reason is the outcome of that order8 ,our well-being consists in learning it and in adjusting our lives to it4 ,when we cross it or seek to contravene it1 we are destroyed4 ,but ,nature in her universal procedures is not rational1 as ,i am rational when ,i weed my garden1 prune my trees1 select my seed or my stock1 or arm myself with tools or weapons4 ,in such matters ,i take a short cut to that which ,nature reaches by a slow1 roundabout1 and wasteful process4 ,how does she weed her garden8 ,by the survival of the fittest4 ,how does she select her breeding-stock8 ,by the law of battle2 the strongest rules4 ,hers1 ,i repeat1 is a slow and wasteful process4 ,she fertilizes the soil by plowing in the crop4 ,she cannot take a short cut4 ,she assorts and arranges her goods by the law of the winds and the tides4 ,she builds up with one hand and pulls down with the other4 ,man changes the conditions to suit the things4 ,nature changes the things to suit the conditions4 ,she adapts the plant or the animal to its environment4 ,she does not drain her marshes2 she fills them up4 ,hers is the larger reason--the reason of the ,all4 ,man's reason introduces a new method2 it cuts across1 modifies1 or abridges the order of ,nature4 ,i do not see design in ,nature in the old ideological sense2 but ,i see everything working to its own proper end1 and that end is foretold in the means4 ,things are not designed2 things are begotten4 ,it is as if the final plan of a man's house1 after he had begun to build it1 should be determined by the winds and the rains and the shape of the ground upon which it stands4 ,the eye is begotten by those vibrations in the ether called light1 the ear by those vibrations in the air called sound1 the sense of smell by those emanations called odors4 ,there are probably other vibrations and emanations that we have no senses for because our well-being does not demand them4 ,we think it reasonable that a stone should fall and that smoke should rise because we have never known either of them to do the contrary4 ,we think it reasonable that fire should burn and that frost should freeze1 because this accords with universal experience4 ,thus1 there is a large order of facts that are reasonable because they are invariable3 the same effect always follows the same cause4 ,our reason is developed and disciplined by observing the order of ,nature2 and yet human rationality is of another order from the rationality of ,nature4 ,man learns from ,nature how to master and control her4 ,he turns her currents into new channels2 he spurs her in directions of his own4 ,nature has no economic or scientific rationality4 ,she progresses by the method of trial and error4 ,her advance is symbolized by that of the child learning to walk4 ,she experiments endlessly4 ,evolution has worked all around the horizon4 ,in feeling her way to man she has produced thousands of other forms of life4 ,the globe is peopled as it is because the creative energy was blind and did not at once find the single straight road to man4 ,had the law of variation worked only in one direction1 man might have found himself the sole occupant of the universe4 ,behold the varieties of trees1 of shrubs1 of grasses1 of birds1 of insects1 because ,nature does not work as man does1 with an eye single to one particular end4 ,she scatters1 she sows her seed upon the wind1 she commits her germs to the waves and the floods4 ,nature is indifferent to waste1 because what goes out of one pocket goes into another4 ,she is indifferent to failure1 because failure on one line means success on some other4 ,,iv ,but ,i am not preaching much of a gospel1 am ,i8 ,only the gospel of contentment1 of appreciation1 of heeding simple near-by things--a gospel the burden of which still is love1 but love that goes hand in hand with understanding4 ,there is so much in ,nature that is lovely and lovable1 and so much that gives us pause4 ,but here it is1 and here we are1 and we must make the most of it4 ,if the ways of the ,eternal as revealed in his works are past finding out1 we must still unflinchingly face what our reason reveals to us4 ,red in tooth and claw4 ,nature does not preach2 she enforces1 she executes4 ,all her answers are yea1 yea1 or nay1 nay4 ,of the virtues and beatitudes of which the gospel of ,christ makes so much--meekness1 forgiveness1 self-denial1 charity1 love1 holiness--she knows nothing4 ,put yourself in her way1 and she crushes you2 she burns you1 freezes you1 stings you1 bites you1 or devours you4 ,yet ,i would not say that the study of ,nature did not favor meekness or sobriety or gentleness or forgiveness or charity1 because the great ,nature students and prophets1 like ,darwin1 would rise up and confound me4 ,certainly it favors seriousness1 truthfulness1 and simplicity of life2 or1 are only the serious and single-minded drawn to the study of ,nature8 ,i doubt very much if it favors devoutness or holiness1 as those qualities are inculcated by the church1 or any form of religious enthusiasm4 ,devoutness and holiness come of an attitude toward the universe that is in many ways incompatible with that implied by the pursuit of natural science4 ,the joy of the ,nature student like ,darwin or any great naturalist is to know1 to find out the reason of things and the meaning of things1 to trace the footsteps of the creative energy2 while the religious devotee is intent only upon losing himself in infinite being4 ,true1 there have been devout naturalists and men of science2 but their devoutness did not date from their ,nature studies1 but from their training1 or from the times in which they lived4 ,theology and science1 it must be said1 will not mingle much better than oil and water1 and your devout scientist and devout ,nature student lives in two separate compartments of his being at different times4 ,intercourse with ,nature--,i mean intellectual intercourse1 not merely the emotional intercourse of the sailor or explorer or farmer--tends to beget a habit of mind the farthest possible removed from the myth-making1 the vision-seeing1 the voice-hearing habit and temper4 ,in all matters relating to the visible1 concrete universe it substitutes broad daylight for twilight2 it supplants fear with curiosity2 it overthrows superstition with fact2 it blights credulity with the frost of skepticism4 ,i say frost of skepticism advisedly4 ,skepticism is a much more healthful and robust habit of mind than the limp1 pale-blooded1 non-resisting habit that we call credulity4 ,in intercourse with ,nature you are dealing with things at first hand1 and you get a rule1 a standard1 that serves you through life4 ,you are dealing with primal sanities1 primal honesties1 primal attraction2 you are touching at least the hem of the garment with which the infinite is clothed1 and virtue goes out from it to you4 ,it must be added that you are dealing with primal cruelty1 primal blindness1 primal wastefulness1 also4 ,nature works with reference to no measure of time1 no bounds of space1 and no limits of material4 ,her economies are not our economies4 ,she is prodigal1 she is careless1 she is indifferent2 yet nothing is lost4 ,what she lavishes with one hand1 she gathers in with the other4 ,she is blind1 yet she hits the mark because she shoots in all directions4 ,her germs fill the air2 the winds and the tides are her couriers4 ,when you think you have defeated her1 your triumph is hers2 it is still by her laws that you reach your end4 ,we make ready our garden in a season1 and plant our seeds and hoe our crops by some sort of system4 ,can any one tell how many hundreds of millions of years ,nature has been making ready her garden and planting her seeds8 ,there can be little doubt1 ,i think1 but that intercourse with ,nature and a knowledge of her ways tends to simplicity of life4 ,we come more and more to see through the follies and vanities of the world and to appreciate the real values4 ,we load ourselves up with so many false burdens1 our complex civilization breeds in us so many false or artificial wants1 that we become separated from the real sources of our strength and health as by a gulf4 ,for my part1 as ,i grow older ,i am more and more inclined to reduce my baggage1 to lop off superfluities4 ,i become more and more in love with simple things and simple folk--a small house1 a hut in the woods1 a tent on the shore4 ,the show and splendor of great houses1 elaborate furnishings1 stately halls1 oppress me1 impose upon me4 ,they fix the attention upon false values1 they set up a false standard of beauty2 they stand between me and the real feeders of character and thought4 ,a man needs a good roof over his head winter and summer1 and a good chimney and a big wood-pile in winter4 ,the more open his four walls are1 the more fresh air he will get1 and the longer he will live4 ,how the contemplation of ,nature as a whole does take the conceit out of us6 ,how we dwindle to mere specks and our little lives to the span of a moment in the presence of the cosmic bodies and the interstellar spaces6 ,how we hurry6 ,how we husband our time6 ,a year1 a month1 a day1 an hour may mean so much to us4 ,behold the infinite leisure of ,nature6 ,a few trillions or quadrillions of years1 what matters it to the ,eternal8 ,jupiter and ,saturn must be billions of years older than the earth4 ,they are evidently yet passing through that condition of cloud and vapor and heat that the earth passed through untold aeons ago1 and they will not reach the stage of life till aeons to come4 ,but what matters it8 ,only man hurries4 ,only the ,eternal has infinite time4 ,when life comes to ,jupiter1 the earth will doubtless long have been a dead world4 ,it may continue a dead world for aeons longer before it is melted up in the eternal crucible and recast1 and set on its career of life again4 ,familiarity with the ways of the ,eternal as they are revealed in the physical universe certainly tends to keep a man sane and sober and safeguards him against the vagaries and half-truths which our creeds and indoor artificial lives tend to breed4 ,shut away from ,nature1 or only studying her through religious fears and superstitions1 what a mess a large body of mankind in all ages have made of it6 ,think of the obsession of the speedy end of the world which has so often taken possession of whole communities1 as if a world that has been an eternity in forming could end in a day1 or on the striking of the clock6 ,it is not many years since a college professor published a book figuring out1 from some old historical documents and predictions1 just the year in which the great mundane show would break up4 ,when ,i was a small boy at school in the early forties1 during the ,millerite excitement about the approaching end of all mundane things1 ,i remember1 on the day when the momentous event was expected to take place1 how the larger school-girls were thrown into a great state of alarm and agitation by a thundercloud that let down a curtain of rain1 blotting out the mountain on the opposite side of the valley4 ,there it comes6 they said1 and their tears flowed copiously4 ,i remember that ,i did not share their fears1 but watched the cloud1 curious as to what the end of the world would be like4 ,i cannot brag1 as ,thoreau did1 when he said he would not go around the corner to see the world blow up4 ,i am quite sure my curiosity would get the better of me and that ,i should go1 even at this late day4 ,or think of the more harmless obsession of many good people about the second coming of ,christ1 or about the resurrection of the physical body when the last trumpet shall sound4 ,a little natural knowledge ought to be fatal to all such notions4 ,natural knowledge shows us how transient and insignificant we are1 and how vast and everlasting the world is1 which was aeons before we were1 and will be other aeons after we are gone1 yea1 after the whole race of man is gone4 ,natural knowledge takes the conceit out of us1 and is the sure antidote to all our petty anthropomorphic views of the universe4 ,v ,i was struck by this passage in one of the recently published letters of ,saint-,gaudens3 ,the principal thought in my life is that we are on a planet going no one knows where1 probably to something higher 7on the ,darwinian principle of evolution72 that1 whatever it is1 the passage is terribly sad and tragic1 and to bear up at times against what seems to be the ,great ,power that is over us1 the practice of love1 charity1 and courage are the great things4 ,the ,great ,power that is over us does seem unmindful of us as individuals1 if it does not seem positively against us1 as ,saint-,gaudens seemed to think it was4 ,surely the ways of the ,eternal are not as our ways4 ,our standards of prudence1 of economy1 of usefulness1 of waste1 of delay1 of failure--how far off they seem from the scale upon which the universe is managed or deports itself6 ,if the earth should be blown to pieces to-day1 and all life instantly blotted out1 would it not be just like what we know of the cosmic prodigality and indifference8 ,such appalling disregard of all human motives and ends bewilders us4 ,of all the planets of our system probably only two or three are in a condition to sustain life4 ,mercury1 the youngest of them all1 is doubtless a dead world1 with absolute zero on one side and a furnace temperature on the other4 ,but what matters it8 ,whose loss or gain is it8 ,life seems only an incident in the universe1 evidently not an end4 ,it appears or it does not appear1 and who shall say yea or nay8 ,the asteroids at one time no doubt formed a planet between ,mars and ,jupiter4 ,some force which no adjective can describe or qualify blew it into fragments1 and there1 in its stead1 is this swarm of huge rocks making their useless rounds in the light of the sun forever and ever4 ,what matters it to the prodigal ,all8 ,bodies larger than our sun collide in the depths of space before our eyes with results so terrific that words cannot even hint them4 ,the last of these collisions--of this wreck of matter and crush of worlds--reported itself to our planet in ,february1 #aija1 when a star of the twelfth magnitude suddenly blazed out as a star of the first magnitude and then slowly faded4 ,it was the grand finale of the independent existence of two enormous celestial bodies4 ,they apparently ended in dust that whirled away in the vast abyss of siderial space1 blown by the winds upon which suns and systems drift as autumn leaves4 ,it would be quite in keeping with the observed ways of the ,eternal1 if these bodies had had worlds in their train1 teeming with life1 which met the same fate as the central colliding bodies4 ,does not force as we know it in this world go its own way with the same disregard of the precious thing we call life8 ,such long and patient preparations for it1--apparently the whole stellar system in labor pains to bring it forth1--and yet held so cheaply and indifferently in the end6 ,the small insect that just now alighted in front of my jack-plane as ,i was dressing a timber1 and was reduced to a faint yellow stain upon the wood1 is typical of the fate of man before the unregarding and unswerving terrestrial and celestial forces4 ,the great wheels go round just the same whether they are crushing the man or crushing the corn for his bread4 ,it is all one to the ,eternal4 ,flood1 fire1 wind1 gravity1 are for us or against us indifferently4 ,and yet the earth is here1 garlanded with the seasons and riding in the celestial currents like a ship in calm summer seas1 and man is here with all things under his feet4 ,all is well in our corner of the universe4 ,the great mill has made meal of our grist and not of the miller4 ,we have taken our chances and have won4 ,more has been for us than against us4 ,during the little segment of time that man has been upon the earth1 only one great calamity that might be called cosmical has befallen it4 ,the ice age of one or two hundred thousand years was such a calamity4 ,but man survived it4 ,the spring came again1 and life1 the traveler1 picked itself up and made a new start4 ,but if he had not survived it1 if nothing had survived it1 the great procession would have gone on just the same2 the gods would have been just as well pleased4 ,the battle is to the strong1 the race is to the fleet4 ,this is the order of nature4 ,no matter for the rest1 for the weak1 the slow1 the unlucky1 so that the fight is won1 so that the race of man continues4 ,you and ,i may fail and fall before our time2 the end may be a tragedy or a comedy4 ,what matters it8 ,only some one must succeed1 will succeed4 ,we are here1 ,i say1 because1 in the conflict of forces1 the influences that made for life have been in the ascendant4 ,this conflict of forces has been a part of the process of our development4 ,we have been ground out as between an upper and a nether millstone1 but we have squeezed through1 we have actually arrived1 and are all the better for the grinding--all those who have survived4 ,but1 alas for those whose lives went out in the crush6 ,maybe they often broke the force of the blow for us4 ,nature is not benevolent2 ,nature is just1 gives pound for pound1 measure for measure1 makes no exceptions1 never tempers her decrees with mercy1 or winks at any infringement of her laws4 ,and in the end is not this best8 ,could the universe be run as a charity or a benevolent institution1 or as a poor-house of the most approved pattern8 ,without this merciless justice1 this irrefragable law1 where should we have brought up long ago8 ,it is a hard gospel2 but rocks are hard too1 yet they form the foundations of the hills4 ,man introduces benevolence1 mercy1 altruism1 into the world1 and he pays the price in his added burdens2 and he reaps his reward in the vast social and civic organizations that were impossible without these things4 ,i have no doubt that the life of man upon this planet will end1 as all other forms of life will end4 ,but the potential man will continue and does continue on other spheres4 ,one cannot think of one part of the universe as producing man1 and no other part as capable of it4 ,the universe is all of a piece so far as its material constituents are concerned2 that we know4 ,can there be any doubt that it is all of a piece so far as its invisible and intangible forces and capabilities are concerned8 ,can we believe that the earth is an alien and a stranger in the universe8 that it has no near kin8 that there is no tie of blood1 so to speak1 between it and the other planets and systems8 ,are the planets not all of one family1 sitting around the same central source of warmth and life8 ,and is not our system a member of a still larger family or tribe1 and it of a still larger1 all bound together by ties of consanguinity8 ,size is nothing1 space is nothing4 ,the worlds are only red corpuscles in the arteries of the infinite4 ,if man has not yet appeared on the other planets1 he will in time appear1 and when he has disappeared from this globe1 he will still continue elsewhere4 ,i do not say that he is the end and aim of creation2 it would be logical1 ,i think1 to expect a still higher form4 ,man has been man but a little while comparatively1 less than one hour of the twenty- four of the vast geologic day2 a few hours more and he will be gone2 less than another geologic day like the past1 and no doubt all life from the earth will be gone4 ,what then8 ,the game will be played over and over again in other worlds1 without approaching any nearer the final end than we are now4 ,there is no final end1 as there was no absolute beginning1 and can be none with the infinite4 ,,the ,,end