,,flat ,,ma*9e ,,knitt+ ,,& ,,fabrics ,by ,h4 ,d4 ,,buck ,9 *>ge ( ,knitt+ 9 ,! ,textile ,s*ool ( ! ,city ( ,new ,york ,au?or ( articles on ,knitt+ 9 ,textile ,_w ,new ,york ,,bragdon1 ,,"l ,,nagle ,,company1 ,,publi%]s #ccd ,f\r? ,av5ue ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,copyright$1 #aiba ,,by ,h4 ,d4 ,,buck4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,to ,,my ,,wife ,,elizabe? ,,wilson ,,buck :o has enc\rag$ & assi/$ me1 ?is book is affectionately d$icat$ ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,preface ,:5 ! ,city ( ,new ,york e/abli%$ a textile s*ool 9 #aiai ,i 0 ask$ to take *>ge ( ! class 9 knitt+4 ,al?\gh v busy 9 manufactur+ l9es1 ,i decid$ to give up a "p ( my "t to ?is educational "w1 believ+ x to be my duty to d my bit t[>d help+ to fill a long felt want 9 ! indu/ry4 ,!re be+ no suitable text book available1 p>ticul>ly on ! elem5t>y subjects1 ,i 0 oblig$ to prep>e my own mat]ial = ! in/ruction ( ! /ud5ts4 ,! results ( ?is "w are conta9$ 9 ?is volume1 :i* is devot$ to ! v>i\s types ( flat lat* ne$le ma*9es4 ,x is my int5tion to foll[ ?is ) o!r volumes cov]+ circul> lat* ne$le ma*9es1 spr+ ne$le ma*9es1 etc41 ) _! products4 ,! v>i\s *apt]s ( ?is "w h be5 publi%$ 9 ! knitt+ te*nical section ( ,,textile ,,_w b ,i believe _! usefulness w be increas$ by ?is revision & publication 9 m conv5i5t book =m4 ,"o ( ! greate/ ne$s = ! advancem5t ( ! knitt+ indu/ry to ! position x %\ld occupy 9 ! _w ( textiles is available te*nical in=mation1 & x is hop$ t ?is volume ) ! ones to foll[ w supply1 9 "s degree1 ?is ne$4 ,h4 ,d4 ,,buck4 ,woodhav51 ,l4 ,i41 ,new ,york1 ,septemb] #a1 #aiba4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,cont5ts ,,*ap4 ,,page ,i4 ,developm5t ( ! ,indu/ry ,h[ ,clo? is #i ,con/ruct$--,/udy ( ,loop4 ,,ii4 ,lat* ,ne$le ,knitt+ ,mak+ ,j]sey #af ,clo? on ! ,lamb ,type ( ,ma*9e4 ,,iii4 ,rib ,fabric ,gr\p ,h[ ,/it* is ,made = #bf ,diff]5t ,clo?s4 ,,iv4 ,! ,rack ,/it* ,mak+ ,%ap$ #ce ,coll>s--,opportunities 9 ,design+ ,fabrics4 ,v4 ,! ,d\ble ,lock ,flat ,ma*9e ,h[ #dd ,diff]5t ,/it*es ,are ,=m$4 ,,vi4 ,fa%ion$ ,goods #ea ,,vii4 ,automatic ,flat ,lat* ,ne$le ,ma*9es #eg ,s+le ,lock4 ,,viii4 ,automatic ,wid5+ ,ma*9e ,explanation #gh ( ,me*anism ,us$4 ,,ix4 ,purl ,/it*1 or ,l9ks & ,l9ks ,ma*9e #hf ,= ,h& or ,manual ,p[]4 ,x4 ,designs on ,pla9 ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9es #ig ,automatic ,jacqu>d ,type--,details ( ,jacqu>d-,design+ on ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 ,,xi4 ,flat ,lat* ,ne$le ,automatic ,n>r[+ #aac ,ma*9e ,,xii4 ,! ,flat ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e ,h[ ,x ,diff]s #abi ,f ! ,purl ,/it* ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e--,type ( ,fabric ,produc$--,me?ods ( ,ne$le ,selection--,diff]5ce ,betwe5 ,s+le ,jacqu>d & ,d\ble ,jacqu>d--,explanation ( ,design & ,patt]n ,c>ds4 ,,index #adc ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,flat ,,ma*9e ,,knitt+ ,,& ,,fabrics ,,*apt] ,i ,,developm5t ,,( ,,! ,,indu/ry--,,h[ ,,clo? ,,is ,,con/ruct$--,,/udy ,,( ,,loop ,,ma*9e knitt+ is a mu* old] indu/ry ?an mo/ p realize1 ! fir/ knitt+ ma*9e hav+ be5 inv5t$ 9 ,engl& ab\t ! ye> #aeij4 ,9 spite ( ?is e>ly />t ! knitt+ indu/ry has n made z great progress z "s o!r l9es ( manufactur+4 ,! great ob/acle to its progress1 9 comp>ison ) t ( its rival1 ! weav+ indu/ry1 appe>s to h be5 ! sl[ realization by p 9 g5]al1 & ! produc]s ( knitt$ goods 9 p>ticul>1 ( ! possibilities ( ! loop$ fabric & ! div]sifi$ uses to :i* x is suit$4 ,= #bej ye>s or m aft] ! inv5tion ( ! knitt+ ma*9e1 knitt$ fabrics 7 9 a g5]al way suppos$ to be fit only = hosi]y4 ,!n "s ent]pris+ knitt] woke up to ! fact t knitt$ fabric 0 ! ideal fabric = und]clo?+ to be worn next to ! body1 & !re 0 develop$ a great indu/ry 9 knitt$ und]we>4 ,9 v rec5t ye>s1 we h begun to realize t ?is fabric is suitable = out] g>m5ts ( v>i\s k9ds1 mak+ up into beautiful1 com=table & s]viceable articles ( app>el1 & ! indu/ry is surg+ ahead by leaps & b\nds on ?is l9e4 ,! pr9cipal reasons = ?is are3 fir/1 ! mak+ ( knit fabric does n require1 9 its pres5t /ate ( developm5t1 ! te*nical skill requir$ = ! mak+ ( wov5 fabrics1 not)/&+ ! fact t _m p n connect$ ) ! indu/ry look ^u ma*9e knitt+ z a mo/ my/]i\s op]ation2 second1 ! initial inve/m5t = a giv5 production is n ne>ly s great z = wov5 fabrics2 ?ird1 knitt$ fabrics c be produc$1 y>d = y>d1 or p\nd = p\nd1 *eap] ?an wov5 fabrics4 ,knit ,fabric ,con/ruction ,knitt+ is ! art ( con/ruct+ fabric or clo? ) knitt+ ne$les by an int]lock+ ( loops4 ,! ess5tial elem5t ( knitt+ is ! loop1 = ! :ole fabric is con/ruct$ f a succession ( loops4 ,a loop is a v small l5g? ( ?read1 or y>n1 tak5 at "s po9t at a di/ance f ! end & drawn ?r\gh1 or ar\nd1 "s object1 usually ano!r loop4 ,obvi\sly ?is w result 9 two loops4 ,"o ( ^! coils ar\nd ! in/rum5t or ne$le :i* draws x ?r\gh & is call$ ! ne$le loop1 %[n by ! lett] a 9 ,fig4 #a4 ,! o!r loops ar\nd ! object or previ\s loop ?r\gh :i* x 0 drawn1 & is call$ ! s9k] loop1 indicat$ by b1 b 9 ,fig4 #a4 ,^! two loops1 n two complete loops1 b r "o full ne$le loop & two halves ( ! s9k] loop1 make a /it*1 z indicat$ by ! %ad$ portion ( ,fig4 #a f c to c4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,s9k] ,loop1 ,ne$le ,loop & ,/it*4 ,a c\rse is any numb] ( loops ly+ side by side 9 a l9e crosswise ( ! fabric1 z indicat$ along dott$ l9es a1 a1 ,figs4 #b & #c4 ,a wale is any numb] ( loops 9 a l9e succe$+ "o ano!r l5g?wise ( ! fabric1 z indicat$ along dott$ l9es b1 b1 ,figs4 #b & #c4 ,crosswise ( ! fabric is ! direction 9 :i* ! y>n fe$s :ile ! fabric is 9 ! process ( con/ruction1 =m+ loops adjo9+ "o ano!r1 or ! same direction z ! c\rse4 ,l5g?wise ( ! fabric is ! direction 9 :i* ! fabric is built up by draw+ "o loop ?r\gh ano!r1 or ! same direction z ! wale4 ,!re=e ! wid? ( ! fabric is re/rict$ by ! numb] ( loops or ne$les us$ z a base1 :ile ! l5g? ( ! fabric has no re/rictions o!r ?an ! supply ( mat]ial or ! w ( ! knitt]4 ,rib is an alt]native expression = wale1 b is applicable m p>ticul>ly :]e ! fabric has a wale on bo? sides1 9 :i* case x is %[n z a rib fabric4 ,:]e a clo? has a wale on "o side only x is kn[n z a j]sey fabric1 & is also sometimes call$ flat goods4 ,rib fabrics w be tak5 up lat] = x is my purpose to deal only ) j]sey or flat fabrics until ! !ory ( knitt+ is ?or\ghly expla9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,wale & ,c\rse1 ,face4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,wale & ,c\rse1 ,back4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a ,/udy ( ! ,loop ,a /udy ( ! loop is v important to ^? :o wi% to acquire a k ( knitt+1 = ! :ole con/ruction ( ! knitt$ fabric is f loops4 ,9 fact1 knitt$ fabric is commonly ref]r$ to z loop$ fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,fig4 #e4 ,fig4 #f4 ,=mation ( ,loops4 ,fig4 #d %[s ! position or =m into :i* ! y>n is drawn to =m ! loops ( a pla9 j]sey or flat fabric4 ,fig4 #e %[s a second c\rse ( loops drawn ?r\gh ! fir/4 ,fig4 #f %[s a ?ird c\rse4 ,x is q evid5t t 9 ord] to draw ea* ( ^! c\rses ( loops ?r\gh ! prec$+ "o !re mu/ be some?+ to su/a9 or hold ! prec$+ c\rse ( loops z well z ! new loops dur+ ! p]iod 9 :i* ! new ones are be+ drawn ?r\gh4 ,!re mu/ also be some?+ on :i* to />t ! fir/ r[ or c\rse ( loops =1 z /at$ be=e1 a loop _c be made )\t some?+ ( /ability to draw x ?r\gh4 ,x is v important t ! read] get firmly fix$ 9 8 m9d ! curves ( ! loops & ! mo/ simple me?ods ( =m+ !m1 z he c !n m readily und]/& ! necess>y movem5ts made on a ma*9e4 ,= ?is reason ,i w fir/ take up ! mo/ primitive me?od ( knitt+2 i4e41 h& knitt+4 ,simple/ ,me?od ( ,=m+ ,loops ,! ne$les us$ = h& knitt+ are /raight rods ( /eel1 wood1 bone or celluloid4 ,n less ?an two ( ^! ne$les mu/ be us$ z indicat$ 9 ,figs4 #g1 #h & #i4 ,to />t we take ! y>n & make a small slip knot or noose1 ) :i* we are all famili>1 slip "o ne$le ?r\gh ! loop ?us made & draw ! y>n up s t x fits ar\nd ! ne$le loosely4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,=m+ ,loops by ,h&1 ,fir/ ,/ep4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,=m+ ,loops by ,h&1 ,second ,/ep4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,=m+ ,loops by ,h&1 ,complet$4 ,we n[ h ! corn]/one laid4 ,hold+ ?is ne$le 9 ! left h& ) ! =e-f+] be>+ lightly on ! loop1 we take ! o!r ne$le 9 ! "r h& & slip x ?r\gh ! loop z 9 ,fig4 #g1 next draw ! y>n ov] ! end ( ! "r h& ne$le z %[n1 !n draw ?is ne$le back to ! po9t :]e x w pass ! left side ( ! loop on ! "r h& ne$le1 b n f> en\gh to all[ ! y>n t 0 plac$ ov] ! end to drop (f4 ,!n we draw ?is y>n ?r\gh z indicat$ 9 ,fig4 #h1 & we w h ! second loop4 ,at ?is po9t 9 ! build+ up ( ! fabric we w\ld slip ! previ\s loop (f ! left h& ne$le & let x hang on ! newly =m$ loop on ! "r h& ne$le1 z 9 ,fig4 #i1 b z we are n z yet build+1 b only lay+ ! f\ndation1 we slip ?is new loop back on ! left h& ne$le1 :]e we n[ h two loops4 ,! next /ep is to take ! "r h& ne$le1 slip x ?r\gh ! second loop1 & proce$ z ) ! fir/1 !n slip ! ?ird loop back on ! left h& ne$le4 ,?is proc$ure is repeat$ until !re are suffici5t loops to make ! fabric ! wid? want$4 ,we n[ h our f\ndation on :i* to build4 ,figs1 #g1 #h & #i give a v cle> illu/ration ( ! me?od ( build+ up ! knit fabric by h& knitt+ aft] ! fir/ c\rse4 ,x %\ld be not$1 h[ev]1 t aft] ! "r h& ne$le has complet$ ! new c\rse1 & ! la/ loop has be5 dropp$ (f ! left h& ne$le1 ! "r h& ne$le ) its full numb] ( loops is %ift$ to ! left h& & ! empty ne$le !n becomes ! work+ ne$le 9 ! "r h&4 ,?is fir/ c\rse ( /it*es1 x %\ld be not$1 has ! ne$le loop only1 ! s9k] loop be+ ti$ 9 to =m a base or edge f :i* to />t4 ,fig4 #g %[s ! fir/ position to =m ! loops ) two ne$les4 ,"o full c\rse is on ! ne$le lett]$ a1 :ile ne$le b is ?ru/ ?r\gh ! fir/ loop ( ! la/ c\rse & receiv+ y>n to draw ?r\gh a new loop4 ,fig4 #h %[s ! new loop drawn ?r\gh1 :ile ,fig4 #i %[s ! old or prec$+ loop ca/ (f f ne$le a & hang+ f ! new loop on ne$le b4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,cro*et ,/it*1 ,cat*+ ,?read4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,cro*et ,/it*1 ,draw+ ,/it*4 ,figs4 #aj & #aa %[ ! cro*et /it*1 :i* is tak5 up at ?is po9t to %[ its simil>ity to ! knitt$ loop & to expla9 ! po9ts ( diff]5ce4 ,! illu/rations %[ v pla9ly ! me?od ( =m+ cro*et loops & !y also %[ t ?is /it* is simply a s+le *a9 or wale ( loops succe$+ "o ano!r4 ,:5 cro*et "w is to be made into a fabric1 ! hook$ ne$le is pu%$ ?r\gh ! side ( ano!r loop at ! po9t at :i* x is to be jo9$1 & ! new loop is drawn ?r\gh ?is old loop z well z ! "o on ! ne$le4 ,!re is nev] m ?an "o loop us$ at a "t 9 mak+ ?is "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,back - ,fig4 #ab4 ,face - ,fig4 #ac4 ,j]sey ,fabric4 ,9 ! knitt$ fabric ! loops are laid side by side & !re are a suffici5t numb] ( loops be+ us$ at all times to make ! wid? ( fabric desir$4 ,! wales are b\nd toge!r by ! y>n pass+ f "o loop to ! next adjo9+ "o1 !reby =m+ ! s9k] loops :i* h already be5 expla9$4 ,figs4 #ab & #ac are photographic reproductions ( a piece ( closely knitt$ j]sey or flat goods4 ,! /it* =mation 9 ?is clo? is exactly ! same z %[n 9 ! l9e draw+s at ,figs4 #b & #c4 ,x may be well to /ate "h 9 pass+1 t all textile fibres h m or less flexibility or resili5cy1 & :ile ?is *>act]i/ic is inf9itely small 9 any s+le fibre or hair1 x is q appreciable :5 !re are hundr$s ( fibres gr\p$ toge!r & twi/$ into a y>n4 ,?is is ! reason = ! ela/icity or /ret* 9 knitt$ fabrics4 ,x w be notic$ 9 ,fig4 #b t 9 =m+ ! loops ! curvature or b5d ( ! ?read is gradual & uni=m4 ,:5 ?is y>n is knitt$ into fabric & bo? top or ne$le loop1 & bottom or s9k] loop are atta*$ to or drawn ?r\gh o!r & l loops1 & we pull or /ret* ! fabric1 we draw %>p curves or corn]s 9 ! y>n :]e x passes ar\nd ! prec$+ & succe$+ loops4 ,:5 we let g or take ! /ra9 (f ! fabric1 ! natural t5d5cy ( ! fibre to /raight5 out or take an easi] curve br+s ! fabric back into its orig9al position4 ,i w\ld sugge/ t ! read] take any /raight piece ( y>n1 wor/$ if available1 =m a loop1 & hold x betwe5 ! ?umb & f+] ( "o h&1 !n press ! loop toge!r ) ! ?umb & f+] ( ! o!r h& & demon/rate = himself ?is *>act]i/ic ( textile fibres4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,lat* ,,ne$le ,,knitt+--,,mak+ ,,j]sey ,,clo? ,,on ,,! ,,lamb ,,type ,,( ,,ma*9e ,,al?\gh :at is kn[n z ! spr+ be>d ne$le 0 a "p ( ! orig9al inv5tion ( ! knitt+ ma*9e1 & 0 9 use m ?an #bjj ye>s be=e ! lat* ne$le 0 inv5t$1 ,i am tak+ up ! lat* ne$le ma*9e fir/ = two reasons4 ,fir/1 because ! lat* ne$le type ( ma*9e is mo/ l>gely us$ & is m popul> 9 ?is c\ntry today ?an any o!r type2 & second1 because ,i believe x c be m easily und]/ood by a p]son :o is n famili> ) ma*9e knitt+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,lat* ,ne$les4 ,9 ma*9e knitt+ ( e k9d !re mu/ be a ne$le = e loop1 & !re9 lies ! fundam5tal diff]5ce betwe5 ma*9e & h& knitt+4 ,lat* ne$les1 h[ev]1 are con/ruct$ entirely diff]5t f ! /raight pla9 h& ne$les4 ,fig4 #ad %[s ! con/ruction ( ! lat* ne$le4 ,x w be not$ by look+ at ! lat*es on ! ?ree ne$les t !y sw+ freely on a p9 or rivet l5g?wise ( ! ne$le1 b h no movem5t sidewise4 ,types ( ,lat* ,ne$le ,! hook1 lat*1 rivet1 *eek1 ?roat & /em are sub/antially ! same except 9 size 9 all lat* ne$les1 b ! balance ( ! ne$le may & does v>y 9 %ape to a m>k$ degree 9 ! v>i\s types & makes ( ma*9es4 ,fig4 #ae %[s _m ( ! diff]5t types ( butts & %anks made1 z well z ! v>iation 9 ! sizes ( ! hooks & ! ?ickness ( ! ne$les1 b x %\ld be und]/ood t ! type ( ! butt & %ank has no be>+ on ! size ( ! hook & /em1 z ea* type is made 9 ! v>i\s sizes & is gov]n$ only by ! size ( ! y>n to be us$4 ,fig4 #af is a v important illu/ration & ! read] %\ld /udy x well & m5tally dige/ e position ( ! ne$les1 = "h is %[n a complete cycle ( ! movem5ts necess>y to make ! knitt$ loop on a lat* ne$le ma*9e ( ! type 9 :i* ! ne$les slide back & =?1 l5g?wise ( ! ne$le1 9 :at are call$ tricks1 or m commonly express$1 slots4 ,probably #ie p] c5t4 or m ( ! lat* ne$le ma*9es 9 use today are ( ! type 9 :i* ! ne$le slides back & =? 9 slots 9 ! op]ation ( =m+ ! loops4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,"s ( ! ,v>i\s ,types ( ,lat* ,ne$les4 ,explanation ( ,lamb ,type ,ma*9e ,a /udy ( ,fig4 #af %\ld be made 9 connection ) ! photographic reproductions1 ,figs4 #ag & #ah4 ,fig4 #ah %[s sub/antially ! :ole knitt+ ma*9e1 :ile ,fig4 #ag is a close-up view ( t "p ( ! ma*9e :i* actually does ! knitt+4 ,fig4 #af %[s ! pr9ciple us$ to op]ate ! ne$les4 ,?is type ( ma*9e 0 inv5t$ 9 #ahfc by ,isaac ,w4 ,lamb1 a cl]gyman1 & 0 made possible only by ! inv5tion ( ! lat* ne$le 9 ,engl& ab\t #ahdg4 ,x is v simple 9 con/ruction 9 ! pla9 models & is ! mo/ v]satile ( all ! knitt+ ma*9es1 x be+ possible to make on x a l>g] v>iety ( /it*es & articles ( app>el ?an on any o!r ma*9e4 ,x is kn[n z ! flat or ,lamb type ( ma*9e4 ,x has two flat or /raight horizontal plates or b$s ab\t "o-half in* ?ick by #f in*es wide1 ! l5g? ( :i* v>ies f #f in*es or less to #fj in*es or m1 accord+ to ! wid? ( fabric x is design$ to make4 ,^! plates are set 9 a frame1 p>allel to ea* o!r l5g?wise1 & at an angle ( ab\t #ij degrees to ea* o!r & #de degrees to ! horizontal4 ,see ,figs4 #af1 #ag & #bj4 ,all flat ma*9es ( ?is type h two ne$le plates1 b = our purpose ( knitt+ j]sey fabric we ne$ b "o1 !re=e we w imag9e t !re are two 9 ,fig4 #af b ! back "o hav+ no ne$les 9 x _c d any knitt+4 ,! ne$les1 z w be not$ 9 ,fig4 #af1 are plac$ 9 tricks or slots ( :i* !re may be any numb] f #b up to #ah 9 "o in*1 accord+ to ! size ( ! y>n to be us$4 ,! ne$les %\ld fit 9 ! slots close en\gh s t !y w n h any *ance to tip sidewise1 yet !y mu/ move easily endwise4 ,! gib c1 c1 is = hold+ ! ne$les 9 ! plate1 & ( c\rse is remov$ by draw+ out endwise :5 a ne$le is to be put 9 or tak5 out ( ! plate4 ,! plate is secur$ 9 a frame indicat$ by ! lett] n 9 ,fig4 #af1 & ! frame is atta*$ to a /ation>y /& or table4 ,! cams a-#a1 a-#b & a-#c are atta*$ to ! c>riage b1 b1 b1 b1 ,fig1 #ag1 at a po9t j bel[ a-#a1 a-#b & a-#c & ! c>riage1 toge!r ) ! cams1 re/s & slides freely back & =? on ! ways c1 c1 :ile ! plate & ne$les rema9 /ation>y4 ,! cams are secur$ to ! c>riage 9 a position s t !y come v close to ! ne$le plates4 ,!y %\ld be set z close z possible & n rub ! plate z !y are mov$ back & =?4 ,x may be well to expla9 "h t a cam 9 any ma*9e is a piece ( h>d5$ /eel ( ! prop] %ape & con/ruction to cause "s o!r "p ( ! ma*9e to make ! prop] movem5ts to p]=m its functions4 ,9 ?is in/ance !y actuate ! ne$les by com+ 9 contact ) ! butts4 ,x w be not$ t ea* "o ( ! ne$les f e to e1 ,fig4 #af1 has a loop 9 ! hook except f ! po9t :]e !y are ris+ ov] ! cam a-#c1 & on ^! ! loops re/ on ! %ank4 ,x %\ld be und]/ood t ! fabric back ( ! ne$le plate has a weight on x1 !reby giv+ to ea* loop a d[nw>d pull4 ,! fabric & weights may be se5 9 ,fig4 #ah4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,pr9ciple ,us$ to ,=m ,loops on a ,ma*9e4 ,n[ be> 9 m9d t ! cams a-#a1 a-#b & a-#c1 ,fig4 #af1 are atta*$ to ! c>riage b1 b1 b1 b1 ,fig4 #ag1 at po9ts und]nea? a-#a1 a-#b & a-#c4 ,^! cams are mov+ f "r to left & z ! l[] left h& corn] ( a-#c is bel[ ! l9e ( ! butts ( ! ne$les f e to e1 !y1 ! ne$les1 mu/ ( necessity slide upw>d 9 ! slots along ! edge ( ?is cam4 ,:5 !y get to ! top x w be not$ t ! lat*es ( ! ne$les are above & cle> ( ! loops4 ,z ! cams move f>!r along1 ! cam a-#b comes 9 contact ) ! butts & slides !m d[n aga94 ,z ! ne$les move d[nw>d ! hooks cat* ! ?read i :i* lies 9 _! pa?1 & z at l ! /it* t is on ! ne$le closes ! lat* z ! ne$le slides d[nw>d4 ,z ! ne$le moves f>!r d[n ! hook draws a new loop ?r\gh ! old "o1 :ile ! lat* clos+ up ! hook all[s ! old loop to slip ov] ! end 7ne$le m71 & ! pull ( ! fabric draws x d[n on to ! new loop4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,top ,side ( ,c>riage1 ,ov] ,cams4 ,! ?9 portions ( ! ne$le plate indicat$ by ! lett] h 9 ,fig4 #af1 :i* ext5d upw>ds1 are call$ jacks & ^! hold t "p ( ! /it* call$ s9k] loops :ile ! ne$le is draw+ ?r\gh ! new ne$le loop4 ,bel[ ea* ne$le is a ,u-%ap$ spr+1 j1 j1 & k1 k1 ,fig4 #af1 :i* holds ! ne$les up 9 ! work+ position4 ,!y ext5d d[n to & ar\nd ! bottom ( ! plate & up aga9/ ! "u side ( ! plate4 ,! end t is "u ! plate is a little long] ?an ! end t slides up 9 ! slot bel[ ! ne$le4 ,^! ,u-spr+s are made s t be=e !y are put 9 _! places on ! plate1 ! ends come toge!r1 s :5 !y are spread & pu%$ on to ! plate !y act z a clamp to hold ! ne$les 9 position4 ,!y are n atta*$ to ! ne$les1 b simply clamp ! plate ) t5sion en\gh to hold !m up or d[n1 z ! case may be1 & ! bottom end ( ! ne$les re/s on !m4 ,?is con/ruction leaves ! knitt] 9 a position to pull d own out ( work+ position z _m ne$les z he may wi%1 !re=e he may make 8 fabric any desir$ wid? by pull+ ne$les d[n out ( ! work+ l9e or pu%+ !m up into ! work+ l9e1 !reby add+ to or tak+ away /it*es4 ,! lett] d 9 ,fig4 #ag designates ! y>n c>ri] ?r\gh :i* ! y>n passes1 & :i* guides ! y>n along ! pa? ( ! hooks ( ! ne$les4 ,aft] hav+ mov$ ! c>riage cle> across ! work+ ne$les1 & f9i%+ a c\rse ( loops1 ! c>riage is mov$ back 9 ! opposite direction & ano!r c\rse is put on4 ,?is is done 9 exactly ! same way except t ! cams mu/ necess>ily pu% or slide ! ne$les up & d[n on ! opposite sides ( ! cams3 i4e41 ! butts slide up on ! "r h& side ( ! ,v-cam or cam a-#c 9 ,fig4 #af & d[n ! "r h& side ( cam a-#a1 or /it* cam4 ,?is op]ation is cont9u$ until ! fabric is ( ! desir$ l5g?4 ,ne$les are op]at$ at a rate ( spe$ t w\ld make #ejj or m /it*es p] m9ute p] ne$le if ! ma*9e w\ld keep !m 9 cont9u\s op]ation1 b 9 practical "w !y make f #ej to #bjj /it*es p] m9ute accord+ to ! size ( ! ma*9e z m "t is consum$ z a rule 9 ! movem5ts ( ! ma*9e betwe5 ! /it*es ?an is us$ 9 ! actual knitt+ op]ation4 ,on acc\nt ( ?is spe$ ( op]ation ! lat*es ( ! ne$les mu/ be "u control at all po9ts 9 ! cycle ( knitt+2 t is1 f f to g 9 ,fig4 #af4 ,control ( ,lat*es ,x w be not$ t ne$le o 9 ,fig4 #af has j />t$ to rise & ! /it* t 0 9 ! hook has op5$ ! lat* & /ill has x "u control4 ,:5 ?is ne$le gets up to ! position ( ne$le p x has pass$ ! po9t :]e ! /it* c control ! lat*1 !re=e1 o!r means mu/ be provid$ or x w\ld be v liable to fly up & close ! hook1 9 :i* case x w\ld be impossible = ! hook to cat* ! y>n = ! next /it*4 ,:5 ?is happ5s we h :at is call$ a drop /it*1 & aft] ! y>n _h pass$ !re w\ld be no /it* on ! ne$le4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,flat ,lat* ,ne$le ,ma*9e4 ,to provide aga9/ ?is !re is us$ 9 ?is type ( ma*9e a long n>r[ ?9 bri/le bru% set ov] ! ne$les & at ! prop] angle & di/ance to j cle> ! lat*es4 ,?is bru% is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ai4 ,! lett] a indicates ! bru% alone1 & at b is %[n ! bru% 9 ! fixture :i* c>ries x4 ,! lett] c indicates ! bru% c>ri]4 ,fig4 #bj is a view look+ d[n f above ! ma*9e & %[s ! bru%es1 a & b1 set ready to op]ate 9 ! ma*9e4 ,s z n to confuse ! read] ,i w say "h t all previ\s illu/rations pres5t+ ?is "p ( ! ma*9e h %[n x ) ! bru%es remov$ 9 ord] to make cle> ! op]ation ( ! ne$les4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,lat* ,bru%es4 ,"o ,m\nt$ 9 its ,hold+ ,clamp1 or ,fixture4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,tubul> ,fabric ,made on a ,flat ,ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,position ( ,lat* ,bru%es ,:5 on ! ,ma*9e4 ,a fabric made accord+ to ! =ego+ explanations w\ld be :at is kn[n z a j]sey fabric 7see ,figs4 #ab & #ac71 b x w\ld be a flat piece ( fabric :5 f9i%$4 ,p]haps to make x pla9] ,i %\ld say t if ! fabric 7 laid out on a table x w\ld be a s+le ?ickness1 & if x 7 to be made into a g>m5t x w\ld be necess>y to d\ble x ov] & sew ! edges toge!r to make x tubul>1 or 9 ! =m ( a bag4 ,if we wi% to make ! fabric tubul> on ! ma*9e to save ! labor ( seam+ x1 & also prev5t ! unsightly seam1 x w\ld be necess>y to use ! ne$les 9 bo? plates1 front & back4 ,! cams w\ld !n be set by means provid$1 :i* w be expla9$ lat]1 s t :5 ! c>riage is mov$ 9 "o direction1 say f left to "r1 ! front cams w op]ate ! front ne$les & ! back cams w be put out ( op]ation2 & :5 ! c>riage is mov$ f "r to left1 ! back cams w op]ate ! back ne$les & ! front cams w be put out ( "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,j]sey ,fabric ,made on a ,ma*9e ,) #bd ,ne$les to ,"o ,in*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,j]sey ,fabric ,made on a ,ma*9e ,) #b ,ne$les to ,"o ,in*4 ,by cont9u+ ! op]ation ( ! ma*9e 9 ?is mann] ( hav+ only ! front cams op]ate :ile mov+ ! c>riage 9 "o direction1 & only ! back cams op]ate :5 ! c>riage is mov$ 9 ! opposite direction1 !re w\ld be produc$ a tubul> fabric z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ba4 ,! y>n mu/ ( a necessity g across f front ne$les to back ones1 & f back ones to front ones ea* "t ! direction ( ! movem5t ( ! c>riage is *ang$1 !reby clos+ up bo? sides ( ! fabric4 ,range ( ,j]sey ,fabric ,! j]sey type ( fabric is v popul> ) ! consum+ public & is us$ = q a wide range ( g>m5ts 9 _m diff]5t weights & mat]ials4 ,milady may easily be dress$ ?r\gh\t1 ) ! exception ( %oes1 9 j]sey clo?1 & /ill be up to ! m9ute ) h] clo!s4 ,%e may h on silk /ock+s :i* are made ) ! j]sey /it*4 ,h] und]we>1 mo/ surely is made ( silk j]sey fabric4 ,!n %e may we> a tricolet wai/1 :i* is silk j]sey fabric1 ) a wor/$ j]sey clo? suit4 ,also %e might easily h h] fall & w9t] coat made f ! heavyweight full$ j]sey clo?1 & c>ry a heavy ,%ak] sweat]1 :i* is also ! j]sey /it*1 on h] motor trips into ! c\ntry4 ,x is a f> cry f ! f9e/ & lighte/ to ! heavie/ & co>se/ 9 j]sey clo?4 ,figs4 #bb & #bc %[ two extremes4 ,fig4 #bb is a sample ( f9e fabric & has #cb /it*es to "o in*2 :ile ,fig4 #bc is us$ = :at is kn[n z ! ,%ak] sweat] & has #c /it*es to "o in*4 ,betwe5 ^! come m5's balbriggan und]we> & ! flat wool5 und]we>1 ! j]sey ba?+ suits1 tricolet1 & ! full$ j]sey clo? = ladies' suits & coats1 etc4 ,?is /it* is also ! basic "o = m$ium pric$ knit neckties1 z well z knit mitt5s & gloves1 except ! v lighte/ & ?9ne/4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,rib ,,fabric ,,gr\p--,,h[ ,,/it* ,,is ,,made ,,= ,,diff]5t ,,clo?s ,,!re are num]\s conflict+ expressions or t]ms us$ 9 ! knit goods indu/ry1 & "o ( ! mo/ common ( ^! is ! t]m 8flat goods40 ,9 ! old] und]we> sections1 :]e ! circul> ma*9e 0 us$ exclusively & ! flat ma*9e 0 practically unkn[n1 ! t]m flat goods indicat$ und]we> fabric made tubul> 9 ! j]sey /it* on circul> spr+ ne$le ma*9es1 z di/+ui%$ f tubul> rib fabric made on lat* ne$le ma*9es4 ,at pres5t1 9 ! localities :]e mills are us+ bo? ! circul> & flat /raight ne$le b$ ma*9es1 x is g5]ally und]/ood t a flat fabric is a fabric ( s+le ?ickness made on a flat ma*9e1 reg>dless ( ! /it*1 & any fabric made on a circul> ma*9e is kn[n z a tubul> fabric4 ,if ! /it* %\ld be specifi$ x is m5tion$ sep>ately4 ,?is latt] cu/om appe>s to me to be ! m logical2 !re=e1 :5 ^! t]ms are us$ h]eaft] 9 ?is "w x %\ld be und]/ood t flat fabric means clo? ( a s+le ?ickness made on a flat ma*9e1 or a tubul> fabric cut op5 s x w lie out flat4 ,! 8flat goods0 ( ! old "t knitt]s w be call$ j]sey clo? or fabric4 ,we w n[ leave ! j]sey fabrics = a "t1 z ! mak+ ( ! tuck /it* & plat$ "w 9 ! j]sey /it* are m or less complicat$ & _h bett] be left until we take up fancy /it*es & designs on circul> lat* ne$le ma*9es4 ,! tuck /it* is nev] us$ 9 ! j]sey fabrics on flat ma*9es4 ,rib ,fabrics ,a rib fabric is "o :i* has a rib or wale on bo? sides ( ! clo?4 ,x has mu* m /ret* or ela/icity ?an clo? ( ! j]sey gr\p2 ab\t twice z mu*1 g5]ally speak+4 ,! ela/icity ( ei!r "o1 h[ev]1 may be v>i$ to a m>k$ degree by *ang+ ! l5g? ( loop drawn4 ,rib fabric is peculi>ly adapt$ = su* g>m5ts or p>ts ( g>m5ts z %\ld be close fitt+1 su* z ladies' und]g>m5ts1 cuffs = all k9ds ( knitt$ g>m5ts1 tops ( half hose1 etc4 ,fig4 #bd %[s v cle>ly ! c\rse ! y>n takes to =m ?is /it*4 ,x w\ld be well to /udy ?is draw+ 9 connection ) ,figs4 #b & #c & note c>efully ! diff]5t c\rse ! y>n takes 9 ord] to =m a wale on bo? sides ( ! fabric4 ,a photographic reproduction ( a pla9 rib fabric %[+ bo? sides is giv5 at a1 a1 9 ,fig4 #be4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,con/ruction ( a ,pla9 ,rib ,fabric4 ,a prop]ly con/ruct$ pla9 #a & #a rib fabric1 su* z is %[n 9 ,fig4 #bd1 %\ld be alike on bo? sides4 ,v (t5 ?is is n ! case4 ,a little c>elessness on ! "p ( ! adju/] 9 n draw+ ! /it* ! same l5g? on bo? sides w make a diff]5ce on ! flat ma*9es1 :ile x is impossible to make !m ! same on an ord9>y circul> ma*9e on acc\nt ( ! pr9ciples ( con/ruction ( ?is ma*9e4 ,fig4 #bf is a view ( a flat ma*9e mak+ ! rib /it*1 look+ d[n f above4 ,x almo/ fully expla9s ! me?od ( mak+ ?is /it* to ^? :o h c>efully read & und]/& ! pr9ciples ( mak+ ! j]sey /it*4 ,9 ?is illu/ration ! c>riage is mov+ f "r to left1 & bo? front & back cams are 9 op]ation1 !re=e bo? front & back ne$les are work+4 ,x %\ld be not$ t ! back plate is set s t ! ne$les ( t plate come up at a po9t 9 ! middle ( ! spaces betwe5 ! ne$les ( ! front plate4 ,! cams1 front & back1 be+ made exactly alike & set exactly opposite "o ano!r1 mu/ pu% ! ne$les ( bo? plates up at ! same "t & draw !m d[n at ! same "t4 ,:5 we fe$ ! y>n1 indicat$ by ! lett] a 9 ,fig4 #bf1 d[n ?r\gh ! guide1 b1 x is drawn into loops f bo? sides alt]nately1 z %[n at c1 by ! opposite sets ( ne$les1 !reby mak+ /it*es1 or ribs1 or wales1 on bo? sides ( ! fabric4 ,?is is ! pla9 #a & #a rib /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,face & ,back ( ,fabric2 a1 a1 ,pla9 ,rib2 b1 c1 ,half ,c>digan2 d1 d1 ,full ,c>digan4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,flat ,knitt+ ,ma*9e ,mak+ ! ,rib ,/it*4 ,v>ieties ( ,rib ,?is /it*1 by di/ortion1 or by manipulation ( ! y>ns or ne$les1 or by a comb9ation ( two or all ?ree ( ^! ?+s1 c produce a numb] ( fabrics diff]5t bo? 9 appe>ance & feel4 ,to enum]ate ! pr9cipal ones1 !re are ! half c>digan or tuck /it*1 also sometimes call$ royal rib2 ! full c>digan1 & ! rack /it* ) ! rack on "o side ( ! fabric & ! d\ble rack :i* %[s ! rack on bo? sides ( ! fabric4 ,!n !re is ! zig-zag /it*1 :i* is q simple to make b is q a puzzle to ^? n famili> ) x4 ,!re is also ! cotton back1 :i* is a well kn[n & popul> fabric 9 ! sweat] trade4 ,!n !re are _m v>ieties ( ribs made ei!r 9 pla9 or 9 comb9ation ) "o or m ( ! above by tak+ ne$les out ( ! ma*9e at pr$et]m9$ places1 or by ! ,jacqu>d sy/em ( select+ ne$les4 ,!re is also ! sy/em ( mak+ designs by ! cut press]s & patt]n :eels1 :i* is us$ on circul> ma*9es only4 ,half ,c>digan or ,tuck ,/it* ,! half c>digan or tuck /it* is us$ m ?an any o!r ( ! ribb$ gr\p1 ?\gh x is g5]ally us$ 9 comb9ation ) ! pla9 rib4 ,! body & sleeves ( ! ord9>y rib sweat]1 & mu* ( ! rib und]we> produc$1 are made 9 ?is /it* :ile ! cuffs are pla9 rib4 ,! reason = ?is is t ! half c>digan rib w knit up consid]ably wid]1 ) ! same numb] ( ne$les1 ?an ! pla9 rib1 !re=e x is possible to make a %ap$ g>m5t )\t cutt+ & sew+ up aga94 ,also ! pla9 rib comes out light] & ?9n] s makes a m desirable cuff = sweat]s & und]we>4 ,x also has m life or spr+ to x1 :i* is ano!r desirable feature4 ,! half c>digan or tuck /it* is ! "o t is almo/ inv>iably us$ 9 mak+ ! well kn[n cotton back sweat]s4 ,x is believ$ by _m p :o are famili> ) ?is fabric t ! back /it* ( cotton does n come ?r\gh on ! face1 b 9 ?is !y are mi/ak54 ,! face /it* does n g ?r\gh on ! back1 b ! back y>n does g ?r\gh on ! face4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,con/ruction ( a ,half ,c>digan ,rib ,fabric4 ,fig4 #bg is a l9e draw+ %[+ ! c\rse ! y>n takes 9 mak+ ?is /it* & a c>eful exam9ation ( x w demon/rate to ! read] t ?is is ! case4 ,! dott$ l9e e1 e1 indicates ! wale on ! face & f1 f1 %[s ! wale on ! back4 ,x w be not$ t ! back /it*es ( y>n come ?r\gh to ! face ( ! fabric & connect ! prec$+ & succe$+ /it*es1 c1 c1 ! same z 9 ! pla9 rib1 b !re is ?is diff]5ce1 9 ! pla9 rib ^! face /it*es are1 or %\ld be1 j ! same l5g?1 :ile 9 ! half c>digan1 on acc\nt ( ! back /it* ( ?is c\rse hold+ ov] = "o c\rse1 x necess>ily draws a long] /it* 9 ! back & ! y>n = ?is long /it* mu/ come f ! face /it*1 !reby mak+ ?is face /it* v %ort4 ,9 ! draw+ ! /it*es are n proportion$ j z !y lie 9 ! actual fabric1 = if !y 7 x w\ld be v difficult to trace _! c\rse4 ,9 ! fabric ! /it*es b1 b are s %ort t !y are almo/ completely cov]$ by ! l>ge1 full1 r\nd /it*es1 c1 c1 c4 ,^! /it*es are full & l>ge f ! fact t :]e !y g ?r\gh to ! back !y d n =m a loop b simply cross ov] ! back loop z at d1 )\t be+ drawn ?r\gh4 ,^! are completely cov]$ by ! loops a1 a1 9 ! back wale4 ,h[ ! ,half ,c>digan or ,tuck ,/it* ,is ,made ,! diagram at ,fig4 #bh %[s ! me?od us$ to make ! half c>digan or tuck /it* on a flat ma*9e4 ,! cams %[n are :at are kn[n z ! ,lamb sy/em & are call$ ! automatic c>digan or drop locks4 ,! ^w 8locks10 z appli$ to ! flat knitt+ ma*9e1 means a full set ( cams atta*$ to ! cam plates ready to affix to ! c>riage4 ,!re are a numb] ( diff]5t sy/ems ( con/ruct+ ^! locks1 b ! "o select$ is ! mo/ simple ( all & = ?is reason is us$ = illu/ration fir/4 ,! o!rs w be tak5 up at ! prop] place4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,automatic ,locks = ,mak+ ,half or ,full ,c>digan ,fabrics4 ,9 ,fig4 #bh only a "p ( ! ne$le plates are %[n4 ,!y are atta*$ to a frame at an angle ( #ij to ea* o!r & #de to ! horizontal z expla9$ be=e4 ,! cams are %[n 9 work+ position ) ! c>riage 7to :i* !y are atta*$ :5 9 use7 remov$4 ,z indicat$ by ! ?read h1 !y are be+ mov$ t[>d ! f> end4 ,x %\ld be not$ t ! automatic drop ,v-cams a1 a1 are 9 diff]5t positions4 ,^! cams are made s t !y sw+ freely on ! pivots b1 b1 & ! sw+ is inside ( ! limits ( ! positions ( ! two cams 9 ! draw+4 ,x is controll$ by p9s on ! top side ( ! sw++ ends1 ! p9s com+ ?r\gh a slot ( ! prop] l5g? 9 ! cam plate to /op !m at ! "r place4 ,:5 />t+ to move ^! locks f ! ne> end t[>d ! f> end1 ! cam a1 on ! left1 might be 9 any position )9 ! limits ( ! be=e m5tion$ slot 9 ! cam plate1 b ! in/ant x comes 9 contact ) ! butts ( ! ne$les x is automatically =c$ to ! position %[n4 ,9 mak+ ! half c>digan /it* ! "r h& cam is held up to ! top1 z %[n1 at all times by means provid$4 ,?is position =ces ! ne$les high en\gh s t ! lat*es are above & cle> ( ! loop t is on ! ne$le1 !re=e :5 ! ne$les are drawn d[n aga9 by ! cam f1 !y draw new loops & ca/ ! old ones (f ov] ! lat* & hook1 & !y drop d[n on ! new loop1 j z expla9$ 9 describ+ h[ to make ! pla9 rib4 ,?is ref]s only to ! ne$les 9 ! "r plate4 ,! cam a1 on ! left side1 h[ev]1 hav+ be5 swung d[n to its l[e/ position by contact ) ! ne$le butts1 raises ! ne$les only ab\t "o-half ( ! normal di/ance4 ,or to put x diff]5tly1 ! ne$les raise high en\gh to op5 ! lat*es & cat* ! y>n :5 be+ drawn d[n aga91 b n high en\gh to p]mit ! loop t is on ! ne$le to slide d[n bel[ ! lat*4 ,!re=e1 aft] ! completion ( ! c\rse we h ! "r side ) ! new loop drawn ?r\gh ! old "o z 9 pla9 rib1 b ! left side /ill reta9s ! old or previ\s loop & also ! new "o z at j4 ,?is leaves two loops on e ne$le on ! left side & "o on ! "r :5 ! c\rse is complet$4 ,on ! return c\rse1 f ! f> end to ! ne> end1 :5 ! po9t i ( ! left cam1 a1 comes 9 contact ) ! fir/ ne$le x mu/ sw+ up 9 ! same position z ! "r cam1 a1 !re=e all ! ne$les w draw ! new loop ?r\gh ! two prec$+ ones & cle> !mselves1 leav+ only "o loop on ea* ne$le z 9 ! pla9 rib4 ,on ! next c\rse1 f ! ne> end to ! f> end1 ! left h& ne$les aga9 hold ! old loop & take on a new "o z j expla9$1 :ile ! "r h& ne$les ca/ (f ! old ones & hold only ! new ones4 ,to cond5se ! op]ation into a few words let u say t ! left h& ne$les always mu/ hold ! two /it*es :ile mov+ 9 "o direction1 & cle> !m (f & hold only "o on ! return c\rse2 :ile ! "r h& ne$les always ca/ (f ! old /it* & hold ! new ones only4 ,! "r h& ne$les w\ld make ! face side ( ! fabric4 ,! writ] has made a special ef=t to expla9 ! =mation ( ?is p>ticul> /it*1 & ! read] %\ld make ! same ef=t to get ?is =mation cle> 9 8 m9d1 = ?is /it* is ! base ( almo/ all ( ! fancy /it*es or design "w :i* w be tak5 up lat]4 ,! sy/em us$ 9 design "w is ( c\rse entirely diff]5t f ! "o j describ$1 be+ :at might be call$ a selective sy/em1 t is1 a me?od :]eby ! design] may select ! prop] ne$les at ! prop] "t & place to make ! tuck /it*es block out ! design want$4 ,fig4 #be1 at b& c1 %[s ! tuck or half c>digan /it*2 b is ! face & c is ! back4 ,if /udi$ c>efully ! read] w notice t ! face side1 b1 has a full r\nd /it*1 :ile c1 or ! back ( ! fabric1 has a small n>r[ /it*4 ,! ,full ,c>digan ,/it* ,! full c>digan /it* is n ne>ly s g5]ally us$ z ! half c>digan & pla9 rib /it*es4 ,x is seldom if ev] us$ 9 mak+ und]we> or any f9e fabrics4 ,:5 x is made x is usually us$ = sweat] fabrics or o!r novelty we>+ app>el ( ?is "*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,con/ruction ( a ,full ,c>digan ,fabric4 ,a l9e draw+ ( ! full c>digan /it* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #bi4 ,?is /it*1 z its "n w\ld indicate1 is made 9 ! same way z ! half c>digan only ! /it*es are held alt]nately on bo? r[s ( ne$les on alt]nate c\rses4 ,ref]r+ aga9 to ,fig4 #bh1 9 mak+ ! full c>digan /it* ! cams w\ld op]ate exactly ! same :ile mov+ t[>d ! f> end z %[n & expla9$ = ! half c>digan4 ,b ! means provid$ to hold ! "r h& cam1 a1 at ! top position w\ld h be5 remov$1 s t on ! return f ! f> to ! ne> end ?is cam w\ld be ?r[n d[n to ! same position z ! left h& cam1 a1 is %[n1 :ile ?is left h& cam w\ld be =c$ up into ! position 9 :i* ! "r h& cam is n[ %[n4 ,9 o!r words1 ! /it* w\ld be ! same ) ! c>riage or cams mov+ 9 ei!r direction1 only x w\ld alt]nate on ea* c\rse f "o r[ ( ne$les to ! o!r4 ,we w ref] back to ,fig4 #be1 :i* %[s bo? sides ( a piece ( fabric ) ! ?ree /it*es we h j discuss$ 9 "o piece4 ,?is %[s q pla9ly ! individual *>act]i/ics ( ea*4 ,all h ! same numb] ( ne$les or wales1 ! same y>n 0 us$1 on ! same ma*9e2 yet h[ diff]5t ! results6 ,! mo/ m>k$ diff]5ce is 9 ! wid?4 ,!re is proportionately ! same diff]5ce 9 ! ?ickness1 b ?is _c v well be %[n4 ,x %\ld be obs]v$ t ! /it* or loops ( ! pla9 rib a1 a1 & ! full c>digan d1 d1 are ! same on bo? sides ( ! fabric1 :ile ! /it*es 9 ! half c>digan1 b & c1 are n4 ,x w be not$ also t ! /it* ( ! pla9 rib is mu* small] ?an t ( ! two c>digans1 also t ! wales or ribs hug v close toge!r 9 ! pla9 rib1 :ile !y are sep>at$ m or less 9 ! c>digans4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,! ,,rack ,,/it*--,,mak+ ,,%ap$ ,,coll>s--,,opportunities ,,9 ,,design+ ,,fabrics ,,! rack /it* is us$ on _m sweat]s = a bord] on ! bottom1 also = a n>r[ /rip on bo? sides ( ! %\ld] seam1 & a /rip at ! place ! /it* *anges f half c>digan to pla9 = ! cuff4 ,_m sweat]s h ! coll> & ! bord] d[n ! front made sep>ately 9 ! rack /it* & sew$ on4 ,mo/ ( ! designs 9 ! knitt$ neckties made on flat ma*9es are bas$ on ! rack /it*4 ,ano!r v important use = ?is /it* is 9 mak+ a smoo? sightly edge on ! bottom ( sweat]s1 ! ends ( cuffs1 etc4 ,! rack /it* is always made on "o ( ! c>digans4 ,f ?is /atem5t ! read] w realize t ?is /it* is n made 9 place ( ! half or full c>digan1 or any o!r /it* b is an addition to1 or a fur!r developm5t ( ^! /it*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cj4 ,half ,c>digan ,/it* ,ready to ,rack4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,/it* ,aft] ,plate ,has ,be5 ,rack$ ,ov] ,"o ,ne$le4 ,fig4 #cj %[s a half c>digan /it* ready to rack1 z x is cu/om>y to make ! "o ne$le rack on ?is /it*4 ,x %\ld be notic$ t ! rack+ is done on ! c\rse t holds1 or does n ca/ ! previ\s /it* (f on "o side4 ,fig4 #ca %[s ! /it* aft] ! plate has be5 rack$ ov] "o ne$le4 ,?is illu/ration practically expla9s ! :ole pr9ciple ( ! rack /it*4 ,! rack w %[ on ! side t ca/s ! /it*es (f ! ne$les4 ,x is cu/om>y to hold ! /it* or tuck on ! back plate1 !re=e ! rack %[s on ! front side ( ! fabric1 or ! side t[>d ! op]ator ( ! ma*9e4 ,op]ation ( ,rack+ ,x is und]/ood1 ( c\rse1 t on a flat ma*9e !re mu/ always be an end ne$le on "o plate or ! o!r4 ,usually ! knitt] sets up 8 ma*9e ) "o plate c>ry+ ! end ne$le on "o side ( ! "w & ! o!r plate c>ry+ ! o!r end ne$le4 ,:i* end ( ! respective plates c>ries ?is ne$le dep5ds on ! position ( ! rack+ cam4 ,9 ! illu/ration1 ,fig4 #cj1 ! front plate has ! end ne$le on ! "r & back plate has ! end ne$le on ! left4 ,aft] rack+ z 9 ,fig4 #ca1 ^! positions are rev]s$4 ,x w be not$ t ! front plate has be5 rack$ or mov$ ov] "o ne$le s ! front ne$les w come up ?r\gh & op]ate betwe5 ! next two ne$les to ! left ( _! previ\s positions4 ,or to expla9 x 9 a diff]5t way1 9 ,fig4 #cj1 be=e rack+1 ! front plate has ! end ne$le on ! "r & op]ates outside ( ! la/ ne$le 9 ! back plate1 b aft] rack+1 z 9 ,fig4 #ca1 ?is end ne$le on ! front plate has be5 %ift$ ov] s x comes up inside ! la/ ne$le 9 ! back plate4 ,aft] rack+ ov] "o ne$le !re mu/ be "o full r\nd or two c\rses put on be=e rack+ aga92 t is :ile rack+ on ! half c>digan /it*1 & !n ! plate is rack$ back to ! fir/ position4 ,?is op]ation ( rack+ fir/ "o way & !n ! o!r ) a r\nd betwe5 ea* rack is cont9u$ until ! necess>y numb] ( racks are f9i%$ & !n ! op]ator proce$s ) ! pla9 half c>digan4 ,?is proc$ure w\ld make a pla9 rack on "o side ( ! fabric only4 ,we h assum$ 9 ?is explanation t ! back is /ation>y & ! front plate is ! "o t moves1 b ,i wi% to h x und]/ood "h t x makes no diff]5ce :i* plate is /ation>y & :i* "o racks or is movable2 ! results are ! same4 ,"s writ]s use ! words %og or %ogg$ 9 place ( rack or rack$1 b ! writ] ( ?is "w has avoid$ ! use ( ^! words z !y are seldom or nev] us$ by ! practical knitt]1 at lea/ n 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! ,rack+ ,me*anism ,9 mo/ ( ! mod]n flat ma*9es ! plate t racks has en\gh end cle>ance to rack ov] at lea/ two ne$les1 & "s ( !m z _m z f\r1 ?\gh rack+ two ne$les is suffici5t = all ord9>y "w4 ,fig4 #cb %[s ! me?od ( rack+ or mov+ ! plate to make ! rack /it*1 or at lea/ ?is is ! pr9ciple us$ z a rule on ! import$ ma*9es1 ) "s modifications by "s mak]s4 ,?is also applies to ! me?od %[n ( atta*+ ! plates to ! frame4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,! ,rack+ ,cam1 ,rat*et & ,/uds4 ,!re is a l>ge flat bottom hole1 c1 bor$ ab\t half way ?r\gh ! plate2 ?r\gh ! bottom ( ?is hole !re is made an elongat$ hole1 b1 ?r\gh :i* ! plate is atta*$ to ! frame by ! %\ld]$ screw1 a1 ! head ( :i* is flu% ) ! top ( ! plate4 ,x w readily be se5 t ) ?is me?od ! plate _c be mov$ 9 any direction except l5g?wise ( ! plate1 or crosswise ( ! ne$les4 ,to secure ?is movem5t at w !re is a /eel /rap1 d1 atta*$ to ! "u side ( ! plate by ! screws j & k1 & ?r\gh ! outside end ( ?is /rap !re are two elongat$ holes ?r\gh :i* are atta*$ two %\ld]$ /uds ) nuts e & f4 ,^! /uds ext5d d[n on bo? sides ( ! /eps ( ! rack+ cam1 g1 & toge!r ) ! plate are mov$ back & =? by ! /eps on ! rack+ cam4 ,! cam is mov$ by ! h&le1 i1 9 ! h& ma*9es1 or by ! rat*et1 h1 be+ op]at$ by pawls or dogs 9 p[] ma*9es4 ,! lett] h %[s a front elevation ( ! rat*et1 :ile i is a side view4 ,x w be not$ t !re are only ?ree tee? on ea* side1 & ^! two gr\ps are oppos$ "o to ! o!r4 ,if ! read] w exam9e ! rack+ cam1 g1 ) due ?\ght ! reason = ?is w be obvi\s4 ,!re are ?ree /eps on ! cam & ! cam mu/ h an oscillat+ movem5t & n a rot>y "o4 ,! rat*et1 h1 & ! rack+ cam1 g1 are bo? atta*$ securely to "o hub1 !re=e mu/ move toge!r on a /ud :i* projects f ! end ( ! frame4 ,! plate z illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cb1 sets at ! limit ( its movem5t to ! left1 consequ5tly any rack+ t is to be done mu/ move ! plate to ! "r1 !re=e ! pawl at ! top ( ! rat*et w\ld engage ! upp]mo/ too?1 q1 & turn+ ! rat*et "o too? w\ld move ! rack+ cam "o /ep1 ?us mov+ ! plate ov] "o ne$le ?r\gh its contact ) ! /uds1 e & f4 ,!re are two pawls1 upp] & l[]1 arrang$ to engage ! tee? on ! rat*et ei!r at ! top or ! bottom z requir$4 ,if we want$ a "o-ne$le rack only1 aft] putt+ on "o r\nd ( /it*es we w\ld h ! l[] pawl engage ! too?1 n1 ( ! rat*et & move ! rack+ cam back to its fir/ position4 ,if1 h[ev]1 we want$ a two-ne$le rack1 ! upp] pawl w\ld engage ! second too?1 o1 ( ! rat*et4 ,= ?ree racks x w\ld !n engage ! next too?1 m1 aft] :i* x w\ld be necess>y to />t on ! return to ! fir/ position1 rememb]+ to put on "o c\rse or "o r\nd1 z ! case may be1 ( /it*es betwe5 ea* rack4 ,if rack+ on ! half c>digan /it* !re %\ld be "o full r\nd betwe5 ! racks1 b if on ! full c>digan ! rack+ may be done e half r\nd or e c\rse1 z w be expla9$ h]eaft]4 ,fig4 #cc is a photographic reproduction ( a piece ( fabric1 face & back1 ( a "o-ne$le rack :i* %[s on "o side ( ! fabric only4 ,a fabric ) ! two-ne$le rack :i* w\ld %[ on bo? sides ( ! fabric is n illu/rat$1 = x w\ld be ! same on bo? sides z ! face side ( ,fig4 #cc4 ,a l9e draw+ ( ! rack /it* is %[n at ,fig4 #cd4 ,?is is drawn out ( proportion & is v loose & n l ! fabric1 b by mak+ x ?is way ! direction ! y>n takes may be easily locat$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,face & ,back ( ,"o-,ne$le ,rack4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,position ( ,/it* ,aft] ,rack+4 ,! ,zig-,zag ,/it* ,fig4 #ce is an example ( a fabric t may be made ) a "o-ne$le rack4 ,x is call$ ! zig-zag /it*4 ,to make ?is ! ma*9e %\ld be set to make ! full c>digan /it*4 ,aft] sett+ up ! ma*9e & putt+ on "o r\nd1 ! ne$le plate is rack$ ov] "o ne$le1 put on a c\rse or half r\nd & rack back "o ne$le4 ,cont9ue ?is rack+ back & =? on ea* c\rse = five r\nds1 !n skip "o rack or put on "o full r\nd )\t rack+ & cont9ue z be=e4 ,repeat ?is op]ation ( rack+ e c\rse = five r\nds & !n skip "o rack & we h a zig-zag /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,zig-,zag ,/it*4 ,! po9ts come :]e ! rack is skipp$1 or 9 o!r words ! direction ( ! diagonal /it* w cont9ue 9 ! same direction z long z ! ne$le plate is rack$ e c\rse )\t skipp+1 b imm$iately "o rack is miss$ ! /it* />ts diagonally 9 ! o!r direction4 ,x is obvi\s f ! =ego+ explanation t ! knitt] is n oblig$ to use any set numb] ( c\rses betwe5 ! *ange1 b may use any numb] at 8 discretion to get ! di/ance desir$ betwe5 ! po9ts4 99 99 99 99 99 ,%ap$ ,coll> = ,sweat]s ,! peculi> *>act]i/ic ( ?is /it* is utiliz$ 9 mak+ a %ap$ coll> = sweat]s1 z %[n 9 ,figs4 #ch & #ci4 ,fir/ let ! read] rememb] t ! direction ! diagonal /it* takes all dep5ds on :i* end ( ! ma*9e ! c>riage is at :5 ! rack+ op]ation beg9s4 ,x %\ld be und]/ood t ! coll>s are made 9 a long /r+ & ! ?ree p>ts1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ch1 are duplicat$ "o aft] ano!r4 ,on ei!r end1 :]e ?is piece has be5 cut (f1 !re 0 a duplicate ( ! pla9 rack$ piece %[n at ! middle1 & at ! end ( ^! !re 0 ano!r diagonal piece1 & s on f ! beg9n+ to ! end4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,%ap$ ,coll> = ,sweat]s z ,knit4 ,x %\ld be cle> to ! read] t if ! piece %[n 7,fig4 #ch7 7 cut ?r\gh on ! brok5 l9es we w\ld h "o complete coll> & we w\ld h left ! diagonal /it* t belongs on "o end ( ea* ( ! two adjo9+ c5t] pieces1 !re=e by cutt+ all ! coll>s ap>t at ! po9t indicat$ by ! l9e we w\ld h our coll>s %ap$ )\t any wa/e & w\ld h a selvage or f9i%$ edge on ! outside4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,%ap$ ,coll> ,fold$4 ,! coll> is /it*$ or sew$ on ! neck op5+ ( ! sweat] along ! cut edge & across ! bottom ( ! rack$ c5t] piece1 & aft] x is f9i%$ & ! sweat] coat button$ up x folds ov] & looks z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ci4 ,z /at$ be=e ?is coll> c be made on a ma*9e t racks ov] only "o ne$le1 b 9 t case ! c5t] piece w\ld be rack$ on "o side only1 !re=e x is cu/om>y to make ^! coll>s on a two ne$le rack ma*9e ) ! middle portion rack$ on bo? sides z w be not$ 9 ,fig4 #ci4 ,mak+ a rack on bo? sides ( ! fabric is v mu* l mak+ ! diagonal /it* 9 ! op]ation ( ! ma*9e1 ev5 ?\gh ! resultant fabric is s radically diff]5t4 ,x %\ld be made ) a full c>digan /it* same z ! zig-zag or diagonal1 & ! ne$le plate mu/ be rack$ e c\rse or half r\nd1 b ) ?is diff]5ce3 ,:5 mak+ ! diagonal /it* ! ne$le plate is rack$ ov] "o ne$le & back aga91 :ile to rack bo? sides ( ! fabric ! ne$le plate is rack$ ov] two ne$les4 ,?is does n mean t ! knitt] %\ld rack ov] two ne$les at once1 = ?is %\ld nev] be done1 b rack ov] "o ne$le1 let u say to ! "r1 !n put on "o c\rse & rack ov] ! second ne$le to ! "r1 put on "o c\rse & rack "o ne$le to ! left1 put on "o c\rse & rack ! second ne$le to ! left4 ,or 9 o!r words1 rack alt]nately two ne$les to ! "r & left & put on "o c\rse or half r\nd ea* "t ! ne$le plate is rack$ "o ne$le4 ,!re is "o o!r po9t t %\ld be rememb]$ 9 mak+ ?is coll> & t is ! mann] ( />t+ ! diagonal /it* 9 ! prop] direction aft] f9i%+ 9 ! middle portion4 ,ea* "t ?is "p is f9i%$ ! diagonal /it* %\ld g 9 ! opposite way f ! previ\s "t1 !re=e :5 ! "o ne$le half r\nd rack />ts to make ?is /it* ! fir/ rack %\ld be made ) ! c>riage on ! opposite side ( ! ma*9e f :i* ! previ\s "o 0 />t$4 ,opportunity = ,v>y+ ,designs ,fig4 #cg is an int]e/+ example ( :at may be done ) ! two-ne$le rack4 ,designs ( ?is "* require ! removal or pull+ d[n out ( op]ation ( e o!r ne$le1 !re=e a ma*9e ( any giv5 cut1 or ne$les p] in*1 w\ld be 9 reality only half z f9e z cut & w\ld necessitate ! use ( a heavi] or l>g] y>n4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,basket ,weave ,design ,made ,) ! ,rack4 ,to make ! fabric %[n 9 ,fig4 #cg pull d[n or remove e o!r ne$le 9 ! front plate4 ,!n pull d[n or remove e o!r ne$le 9 ! back plate = five ne$les1 !n leave two ne$les toge!r & remove e o!r ne$le = five m1 leave two ne$les toge!r & cont9ue z be=e until ! full wid? ( ne$les 9 work+ position are z foll[s3 ,e o!r ne$le d[n out ( work+ position 9 ! front plate1 & e o!r "o d[n 9 gr\ps ( five ) two ne$les toge!r betwe5 ^! gr\ps 9 ! back plate4 ,we w f9d by ?is arrangem5t t :5 we rack ! plate ov] "o ne$le1 e second gr\p ( five ne$les 9 ! back plate w rack across a ne$le ( ! front plate1 b ! o!r gr\ps w simply move betwe5 ! ne$les 9 ! front plate1 !re=e w make a pla9 half c>digan /it* only1 :ile ! o!r gr\ps w make a rack /it*4 ,if ?is op]ation 7 cont9u$ 9 ?is way1 rack+ "o ne$le only back & =?1 we w\ld get a fabric ) v]tical /ripes ( alt]nat+ pla9 half c>digan & rack /it*4 ,b if we rack back & =? "o ne$le ea* r\nd = t5 r\nds1 !n rack ov] ! second ne$le & rack back & =? "o ne$le 9 ?is position1 we w f9d t ! gr\ps ( five ne$les t 7 rack+ 9 ! fir/ in/ance are n[ mak+ ! pla9 half c>digan /it*1 & ! gr\ps t 7 at fir/ mak+ ! pla9 are n[ rack+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,designs ,made ) ,rack ,/it*4 ,an +5i\s knitt] c make an almo/ unlimit$ numb] ( designs ( ?is "* by diff]5t arrangem5ts ( 8 ne$les & a v>iation ( ! tim+ ( 8 racks4 ,"o ?+ :i* %\ld be rememb]$ is t all rack+ %\ld be done on ! c\rse t tucks or holds two /it*es :5 rack+ on ! half c>digan4 ,on ! full c>digan bo? c\rses are tuck$1 !re=e x does n matt] :i* "o is rack$1 only ! side ( ! fabric on :i* ! rack %[s is dep5d5t ^u :i* c\rse ! plate is rack$4 ,! design %[n 9 ,fig4 #cf at a is simply a zig-zag /it* ) ?ree ne$les tak5 out ( ! back plate at %ort int]vals1 giv+ ^! places a pip+ effect4 ,! fabric at b is a pla9 "o-ne$le rack ) ! pip+ made 9 ! same mann]4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,v ,,! ,,d\ble ,,lock ,,flat ,,ma*9e--,,h[ ,,diff]5t ,,/it*es ,,are ,,=m$ ,our /udy ( flat ma*9es up to ?is po9t has dealt entirely ) ! class kn[n z ! s+le lock ma*9es1 or ^? t h b "o set or pair ( locks to d ! knitt+4 ,!re is ano!r v popul> type1 commonly kn[n z ! d\ble-lock ma*9e1 :i* is1 x might be said1 9 a class by itself4 ,?is ma*9e1 z ! "n w\ld indicate1 has two sets or pairs ( locks m\nt$ on ! same c>riage1 & set z closely toge!r z !y c be & "w prop]ly4 ,! d\ble-lock ma*9e has _m advantages ov] ! s+le-lock type1 ! mo/ important be+ t !re c be made ^u x a two-fac$ fabric1 t is1 a fabric ) ea* side fac$ ) a diff]5t y>n1 ei!r 9 color1 quality or bo?4 ,! popul> 8cotton back0 sweat] is 9 ?is class4 ,9 mak+ ?is class ( fabric x is ess5tial t ! two diff]5t y>ns1 to %[ out on ! two faces ( ! fabric1 g into ! fabric 9 alt]nate c\rses4 ,!re=e1 x is obvi\s t x w\ld n be practical to make ?is fabric on a s+le lock ma*9e1 = :5 a c\rse 0 f9i%$ ! second y>n w\ld be on ! opposite end ( ! ma*9e f ! locks & y>n c>ri]1 & x w\ld be necess>y to put on a full r\nd1 or two c\rses1 9 ord] to get back to t end to ex*ange y>n c>ri]s4 ,! d\ble-lock ma*9e ov]comes ?is difficulty by tak+ bo? y>n c>ri]s across1 "o foll[+ ! o!r1 ea* on a pair ( locks1 ea* "t ! c>riage moves across ! ma*9e4 ,x is evid5t f ?is t e "t ! c>riage is mov$ across ! ma*9e !re are two c\rses put on ! fabric1 in/ead ( "o z ) ! s+le-lock ma*9e4 ,spe$ & ,production ,?is po9t leads up to ano!r advantage ( ! d\ble-lock ma*9e1 t is1 increas$ production on acc\nt ( putt+ on two c\rses ) ea* movem5t ( ! c>riage across1 z aga9/ "o c\rse ) ! s+le-lock ma*9e4 ,! production w\ld n be twice z mu*1 z might be suppos$ at fir/ ?\ght1 = comp>+ two ma*9es ( ! same size1 ! s+le lock c\ld be op]at$ at a great] spe$ ?an ! d\ble lock1 b n approa*+ twice ! spe$4 ,! reason = ?is is t ! locks ( ! d\ble-lock ma*9e mu/1 ( c\rse1 be practically twice ! l5g? ( ! locks ( ! s+le-lock ma*9e1 & inasmu* z ! locks mu/ move f> en\gh at ea* end to be cle> ( or pa/ ! ne$les1 x is q obvi\s t ! d\ble-lock c>riage mu/ h a long] travel4 ,!re=e1 x takes long] to complete "o r\nd ( ! c>riage ?an ! s+le-lock ma*9e1 to ma9ta9 ! same ne$le spe$4 ,?is br+s u to ano!r po9t t may z well be dispos$ ( "h1 & t is ! spe$ ( lat* ne$le ma*9es4 ,g5]ally speak+1 ! maximum spe$ ( a lat* ne$le ma*9e1 ei!r flat or circul>1 is gov]n$ by ! ne$le spe$2 t is1 ! spe$ at :i* ! cams raise & l[] ! ne$les1 & ! ?read velocity1 :i* is ( c\rse dep5d5t on ! ne$le spe$4 ,spe$ ( ,flat ,ma*9es ,z a g5]al rule1 :]e ! ma*9e is 9 good condition & ! y>n ( fairly good quality1 a flat ma*9e ) a crank drive %\ld be op]at$ at f #ajj to #abe l9eal feet p] m9ute1 & a *a9 drive may be op]at$ at f #abe to #aej l9eal feet p] m9ute4 ,! reason = ?is diff]5ce betwe5 ! *a9 drive & ! crank drive is t ) ! crank drive ! movem5t ( ! c>riage across ! ma*9e is n uni=m ?r\gh\t1 its movem5t be+ fa/] 9 ! c5t] ?an at ei!r end1 !re=e we mu/ regulate our spe$ s x w n be too high at ?is po9t4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! *a9 drive c>ries uni=mly ?r\gh\t ! movem5t ( ! c>riage except = two or ?ree in*es at ! ends4 ,to expla9 :at is meant by l9eal feet p] m9ute1 let u assume t we h a #bj-;in* ma*9e1 t is1 !re are #bj in*es ( ne$les4 ,9 ?is case ! c>riage w\ld h to travel ab\t #cj in*es on acc\nt ( ! locks hav+ to cle> ! ne$les at bo? ends1 !re=e a movem5t ( ! c>riage across & back1 or "o complete r\nd1 w\ld cov] twice #cj in*es or #fj in*es1 or #e feet4 ,n[ if we int5d to run ?is ma*9e at a spe$ ( #abj l9eal feet p] m9ute1 we w\ld divide #abj feet by #e feet1 :i* w\ld give u #bd r\nds p] m9ute1 ! spe$ ! ma*9e %\ld run4 ,i d n wi% to be und]/ood z giv+ ?is z a h>d & fa/ rule = ! spe$ ( ma*9es1 = !re are _m factors :i* ent] into ! op]ation ( knitt+ ma*9]y :i* might make x desirable to v>y ?is spe$4 ,"s ( ^! factors are ! condition ( ! ma*9e1 ! exp]i5ce ( ! op]ator1 ! "* ( ! y>n1 ! class ( fabric1 & sometimes ! skill ( ! me*anic 9 *>ge ( ! ma*9es4 ,go+ back to ! two-fac$ fabric1 ?is mu/ be made on "o ( ! two c>digans4 ,! 8cotton backs0 are usually made on ! half c>digan1 :ile ! fabrics ) two diff]5t color$ faces are made on ! full c>digan z a rule4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,dubi$ ,sy/em ( ,d\ble ,locks4 ,fig4 #dj %[s a type ( d\ble lock us$ 9 a ,dubi$ ma*9e made 9 ,switz]l&4 ,! read] w und]/& f :at has gone be=e t ?is illu/ration %[s ! locks turn$ upside d[n1 t is1 if !y 7 9 op]ation on a ma*9e !y w\ld be turn$ ov] ) ! cams close to ! ne$le plates4 ,x w be not$ t ! fundam5tals are ! same z 9 ! ,lamb sy/em previ\sly describ$1 b ! me?od us$ to *ange f ! pla9 rib to ! full or half c>digan1 or vice v]sa1 is diff]5t4 ,9 mak+ a pla9 rib fabric ! ne$le butts w\ld foll[ ! camway z 9 ! ,lamb sy/em1 t is1 if ! c>riage 7 be+ mov$ f left to "r ! ne$le butts w\ld foll[ ! c\rse up ) cams #a;a1 #a;b & #a;c bel[1 & #a1 #as1 #hs & #h above4 ,?is explanation w\ld ( c\rse apply to all f\r sets ( cams4 ,! cams #a;b1 #b;b1 #c;b & #d;b h /uds :i* project ?r\gh ! cam plate & !re are means provid$ to draw any "o or all ( ^! cams back ?r\gh ! cam plate by ^! /uds f> en\gh s t ! faces ( ! cams are flu% ) ! cam plate1 & entirely out ( op]ation4 ,! cams #a;c1 #b;c1 #c;c & #d;c are made to sw+ on ! pivots1 aa1 & are held d[n on cams1 #a;a to #d;a1 9 ! position %[n1 by spr+s4 ,x %\ld be p>ticul>ly notic$ t ! cams j m5tion$1 #a;b to #d;b1 & #a;c to #d;c1 are exactly alike 9 ! f\r sets ( locks1 b _! positions are rev]s$ 9 ! sets opposite4 ,!y are plac$ 9 ?is way 9 ord] to facilitate ! mak+ ( ! c>digan /it*es4 ,mak+ ,half ,c>digan ,/it* ,9 ! /udy ( :at foll[s x %\ld be rememb]$ t ! illu/ration at ,fig4 #dj %[s ! locks bottom up1 !re=e 9 actual op]ation ! l[] set 9 ! illu/rations w\ld be ! back ones1 & ! upp] set ! front ones4 ,9 mak+ ! half c>digan /it* x is cu/om>y to h ! tuck or holdov] /it* on ! back plate2 on ! d\ble-lock ma*9e1 :]e we h two fe$s1 x is on ! back fe$1 & ! pla9 c\rse is on ! locks t are lead+4 ,!re=e1 to make a half c>digan /it* ) ^! locks we w\ld simply raise cams #b;b & #c;b up ?r\gh ! cam plate out ( work+ position4 ,n[ rememb]+ t ! cams #b;c & #c;c are free to sw+ up & d[n on ! pivots1 aa1 & are held d[n 9 _! pres5t position by a small spr+1 x %\ld be readily und]/ood t 9 mov+ ! c>riage f1 let u say1 left to "r1 ! butts ( ! ne$les w\ld foll[ up ! "r side ( cam #b;a1 & on up ov] #b;c1 !re=e w\ld knit out on ?is c\rse4 ,b :5 ^! butts came to ! second set ( locks !y w\ld move up ! "r side ( cam #c;a until !y came to ! upp] "r h& corn] ( ?is cam1 & at ?is po9t1 on acc\nt ( cam #c;b be+ up out ( op]ation1 !y w\ld move across & raise up cam #c;c & pass "u x4 ,cam #c;a n be+ high en\gh to raise ! ne$les to ! po9t :]e ! /it* w\ld drop (f ! lat*es1 obvi\sly ! ne$les mu/ hold ! two /it*es on ?is side ( ^! locks4 ,on ! return ( ! c>riage f "r to left ! op]ation ( ! ne$les w\ld be rev]s$1 t is1 !y w\ld pass up ov] cam #c;c & knit out on ! locks 9 ! lead & pass "u cam #b;c4 ,to sum up ! :ole op]ation 9 a few words1 to make a half c>digan /it* we mu/ alt]nate ) ! pla9 rib c\rse & a c\rse t tucks or holds ! previ\s /it*1 z well z ! new "o on "o side4 ,?is half c>digan is ! /it* us$ 9 mak+ :at is kn[n z ! 8cotton back0 sweat] & o!r su* fabrics4 ,by hav+ "o y>n c>ri] ?read$ ) cotton & "o ?read$ ) wool or wor/$1 z ! case may be1 & *ang+ ^! c>ri]s at ! end ( e c\rse s z to keep ! cotton always knitt+ at ! cams t are lead+ or mak+ ! pla9 /it*1 ! cotton alone w draw ?r\gh on ! back ( ! fabric :ile ! wor/$ or wool w practically cov] ! face /it* ( ! cotton4 ,?is ex*ange ( ! y>n c>ri]s at ! end ( ea* c\rse is done automatically by ! ma*9e1 !re=e requires no att5tion by ! op]ator4 ,full ,c>digan ,/it* ,to make ! full c>digan /it* ! proc$ure w\ld be practically ! same z expla9$ on ! s+le-lock ma*9e1 z bo? pairs ( ^! locks w\ld be tuck+ or hold+ on "o side 7opposite sides7 on "o c\rse1 & ea* w\ld rev]se itself on ! return c\rse4 ,! cams #a;b1 #b;b1 #c;b & #d;b w\ld be lift$ up out ( op]ation4 ,:5 ?is is done ! cams #a;c1 #b;c1 #c;c & #d;c w\ld op]ate automatically to give u ?is result4 ,?is is ! /it* us$ z a rule to make ! two-fac$ fabrics1 t is1 to make ! two sides ( diff]5t colors4 ,9 connection ) ?is explanation ! "q may arise z to :y ! half c>digan /it* is us$ 9 mak+ a fabric ) "o side cotton & ! o!r side wool or wor/$1 & ! full c>digan /it* us$ :5 mak+ ! two sides ( diff]5t colors4 ,! answ] to ?is is t ! half c>digan /it* makes ! bett] fabric ( ! two = mo/ purposes on acc\nt ( ! face /it* be+ full & r\nd1 !reby fill+ up ! space betwe5 ! wales4 ,inasmu* z ! cotton /it* on ! face is v %ort1 & ! wool or wor/$ q long1 & bo? are ! same color1 ! cotton w %[ b v little1 if any4 ,on ! o!r h&1 if two widely div]g5t colors 7 us$1 ! face w\ld n %[ a solid color b w\ld h m ( a salt & pepp] effect4 ,to g back to ,fig4 #dj x w be not$1 z /at$ be=e1 t :ile ! pr9ciple ( ^! locks is ! same z ! ,lamb sy/em previ\sly expla9$1 ! con/ruction is some:at diff]5t4 ,! /it* cams1 #a1 #h1 #g1 #f1 #c & #d are %ap$ along ! l9es ( a p>allelogram1 :ile all ! /it* cams 9 ! ,lamb sy/em 7 triangul>4 ,cams #c & #d are made ?is %ape to all[ plac+ ! triangul> cam1 #a;d1 9 position to act z a gu>d cam to prev5t ! butts ( ! ne$les f fly+ up betwe5 aft] dropp+ (f ! ends ( ! /it* cams #c & #d4 ,yet x all[s ^! /it* cams to be mov$ freely up & d[n ?r\gh ! angul> slot 9 ! cam plate1 :i* %[s at ! ends1 9 ord] to make ! /it* long] or %ort] z ! ne$ may be4 ,cams #a & #f are made ?is %ape to all[ plac+ back ( !m ! triangul> cams #i & #aj1 b ^! are = ano!r purpose4 ,x sometimes happ5s t x is desirable to make a fabric ) ! /it* s %ort t x w\ld n ca/ ! old /it* (f ov] ! end ( ! ne$les ) all ! cams set high en\gh to make ?is %ort /it*4 ,:5 ?is is ! case1 cams #a & #f only w\ld be mov$ up to a po9t :]e !y w\ld n draw ! new /it* ?r\gh ! previ\s "o on _! respective c\rses1 !re=e w\ld n use any y>n1 :ile ! opposite cams #b & #e w\ld draw a full /it*4 ,aft] ! ne$les _h pass$ ^! cams 7#b & #e7 ! cams #i & #aj on _! respective c\rses1 hav+ be5 set d[n to ! prop] position1 w\ld draw ! ne$les 9 ?is plate d[n to ! po9t :]e ! old /it* w\ld ca/ (f1 !reby complet+ t /it* )\t undue /ra9 on ! y>n on acc\nt ( ! ne$les on ! opposite side be+ free to raise f> en\gh to prev5t x4 ,cam #aa acts z a gu>d cam = #g & #h & also is us$ on a %ort /it* to ca/ (f = ^! two cams1 ! same z #i & #aj ca/ (f = #a & #f4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #da4 ,plat+ ,y>n ,c>ri]4 ,y>n ,c>ri] = ,plat+ ,fig4 #da %[s a y>n c>ri] us$ = plat+ on a flat ma*9e4 ,by plat+ is meant :]e two ?reads ( diff]5t quality1 say wor/$ & cotton1 are us$ 9 ! same c\rse1 & ! wor/$ is laid 9 ! fabric s z to %[ on ! outside & ! cotton is 9 ! middle4 ,to d ?is ! wor/$ y>n1 d1 d1 w\ld pass ?r\gh ! c5t] hole1 b1 & ! y>n c1 c1 pass+ ?r\gh ! cresc5t-%ap$ hole1 a1 w\ld be ! cotton4 ,x w be not$ t ! angul> draw ( ! y>n f ! bottom ( ! guide into ! ne$les w always keep ! y>ns 9 ! positions %[n4 ,:5 ! end ( ! c\rse is rea*$1 & ! movem5t ( ! c>riage is rev]s$1 ! cotton y>n c1 c1 w sw+ ar\nd to ! opposite end ( ! cresc5t-%ap$ hole1 a1 & 9 ?is way w always be 9 ! same relative position to ! wor/$ y>n d4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,fa%ion$ ,,goods ,,fa%ion$ goods are g>m5ts :i*1 :ile be+ knit on ! ma*9e1 are made ! prop] %ape to fit ! we>]4 ,if ! g>m5t to be fa%ion$ is a sweat]1 ! fa%ion+ or %ap+ to be done is ! sleeve1 ! neck op5+1 ! coll>1 & at times 9 ! bett] class ( sweat]s1 ! arm holes are n>r[$ back f ! l[] "p to ! %\ld] 9 ord] to %ort5 ! %\ld] l5g?1 !reby insur+ a bett] fit4 ,:5 mak+ und]we> n only ! sleeves h to be %ap$ b ! legs ( ! draw]s are %ap$ also4 ,9 ! ladies' high class fa%ion$ und]we> & tights ! bu/ & hips are %ap$4 ,mu* ( ?is class ( "w1 ) ! exception ( hosi]y1 is made on ! h& ma*9es & involves mu* m labor1 "t & skill1 ?an :]e ! "w is knit 9 a /raight piece & made ! prop] %ape by o!r means aft] be+ tak5 (f ! ma*9e4 ,!re are ?ree advantages 9 fa%ion+ ! g>m5ts 9 ! knitt+ op]ation4 ,fir/1 !re is a sav+ 9 mat]ial z !re is no mat]ial cut (f 9 ord] to get ! %ape4 ,?is sav+1 h[ev]1 w\ld pay b a small "p ( ! extra labor involv$4 ,second1 fa%ion$ goods make up into bett] look+ & z a rule bett] fitt+ g>m5ts ?an cut goods4 ,?ird1 on acc\nt ( ! edges be+ selvage1 n cut & raw1 x is possible to jo9 two edges s ! place ( jo9+ w look mu* l a wale 9 ! fabric1 !reby avoid+ ! unsightly seams ( ! cut g>m5t4 ,9 fa%ion+ ( ?is "* x is cu/om>y to set ! ma*9e up & />t at ! wide/ "p ( ! g>m5t1 if possible1 s t 9 gett+ ! requir$ %ape ! fabric w be made n>r[] in/ead ( wid]1 ?\gh ?is is n ess5tial1 z x is practical to wid5 ! fabric z well z to make x n>r[]4 ,! ,n>r[+ ,comb ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,n>r[+ ,comb or ,deck] & ,"w ,hook4 ,! lett] a 9 ,fig4 #db %[s ! in/rum5t us$ = n>r[+ by h&4 ,x is call$ a deck] or n>r[+ comb4 ,x w be not$ t x consi/s ( long slim po9ts clamp$ 9 a h&le1 ) an eye 9 ! free end ( ea* po9t4 ,!re may be any desir$ numb] ( po9ts clamp$ 9 ! h&le1 ! limit be+ only ! wid? ( ! clamp1 b ! usual numb] = ?is "w is f ?ree to five4 ,^! po9ts mu/ be set at a di/ance f "o ano!r to correspond to ! cut ( ! ma*9e on :i* !y are to be us$2 t is1 if ! ne$le plates are cut = six ne$les to "o in* ! spac+ ( ! deck] po9ts mu/ be ! same4 ,i might add t ^! deck]s are sometimes made by /amp+ ! :ole deck]1 po9ts & all1 out ( %eet /eel1 & sometimes by sold]+ ! r\nd po9ts on to a h&le4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dc4 ,set ,up ,comb4 ,p]haps ! be/ way to expla9 ! use ( ?is deck] is to give directions = mak+ a sleeve4 ,fir/ we mu/ h a set up comb1 %[n 9 ,fig4 #dc1 ! use ( :i* w be und]/ood z we proce$4 ,!n we mu/ h weights ) :i* to hold ! "w d[n on ! ne$les1 =1 z /at$ be=e1 9 ! op]ation ( knitt+ !re mu/ always be means provid$ to pull ! fabric onto & away f ! ne$les4 ,^! weights are simply a /& made f a %ort iron rod ab\t ?ree-sixte5?s in* 9 diamet] & ab\t sev5 to eight in*es long1 ) a hook turn$ on "o end1 a small r\nd iron disc atta*$ to ! o!r1 & a numb] ( r\nd iron weights slott$ to ! c5t] to all[ ! op]ator to slip !m on or (f ! /& to secure ! desir$ pull4 ,9 fact1 ! /& & weights are a duplicate ( ! /& & weights we see hang+ on ! end ( ! beam ( a common plat=m scale4 ,to make ! sleeve we w\ld put up ! requir$ numb] ( ne$les = ! full wid? ( ! sleeve1 let u say #ajj1 & set ! locks = half c>digan /it*4 ,we w\ld !n draw ! y>n ?r\gh ! y>n guide & d[n ?r\gh ! ?roat betwe5 ! ne$le plates4 ,!n we w\ld move ! c>riage across ! ma*9e to ! opposite side1 & we %\ld f9d t ea* ne$le _h caught ! y>n & drawn x back & =? across ! ?roat4 ,we w\ld n[ take our set up comb1 illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #dc1 & pu% ! po9ts :i* project at ! top up ?r\gh ! ?roat1 f und]nea?1 until ! upp] ends are above ! y>n1 :i* has be5 drawn back & =? across ! ?roat1 aft] :i* we pu% ! wire1 %[n j above ! comb1 ?r\gh ! eyes 9 ! end ( ! po9ts1 z indicat$ by ! dott$ l9e4 ,n[ we c pull ! comb d[n on to ! y>n & ! wire w re/ on x4 ,we !n hang a weight 9 ! c5t] hole at ! bottom & are ready to proce$ ) ! knitt+4 ,op]ation ( ,n>r[+ ,! fir/ ?+ we w\ld d aft] hang+ on our weights w\ld be to rack ov] "o ne$le to give t end ( ! sleeve a smoo? selvage f9i%4 ,we w\ld n[ put on five r\nds1 aft] :i* we w\ld beg9 to n>r[4 ,/opp+ ! c>riage on ! left side ( ! ma*9e1 we w\ld take ! deck] & place ! hooks ( ! ?ree end ne$les1 9 ! back plate on ! "r1 9 ! eyes ( ! ?ree po9ts ( ! deck]1 draw ! ne$les up until ! /it* dropp$ d[n bel[ ! lat*1 !n pu% !m d[n to _! fir/ position4 ,we f9d t ! /it*es h dropp$ (f ov] ! end & free ( ! ne$le on to our deck]4 ,we n[ c>ry ! /it*es 9 t[>d ! c5t] "o ne$le1 hook on to ^! ?ree ne$les & pull !m up ?r\gh ! /it*es1 be+ c>eful n to pull !m up s f> t ! /it*es w drop d[n bel[ ! lat*es4 ,aft] ?is has be5 done we h ! end ne$le )\t a /it* & !re=e pull x d[n :]e x is out ( op]ation4 ,we g ?r\gh ?is same p]=mance on ! front ne$le plate1 "r side1 !n move ! c>riage ov] to ! "r & d ! same ) ! left side4 ,x is obvi\s t :5 we h f9i%$ we %all h put f\r ne$les out ( op]ation1 or :at w\ld c\nt z two 9 ! wid? ( ! g>m5t4 ,we w\ld repeat ?is aft] e five r\nds = tw5ty-five r\nds1 s at ?is po9t our sleeve w\ld be t5 ne$les n>r[] ?an :5 we />t$1 al?\gh we w\ld h put out ( op]ation tw5ty ne$les 9 n>r[+4 ,x is cu/om>y to reckon only ) ! ne$les ( "o plate1 z ! wales ( "o side only are c\nt$ 9 ! wid? ( a rib fabric4 ,%ap+ a g>m5t 9 ?is mann] leaves a selvage edge = jo9+1 consequ5tly :5 ! g>m5t is f9i%$ ! seams1 :5 prop]ly put toge!r1 are small ) an appe>ance mu* l a wale 9 ! fabric4 ,!y also h ! same /ret* or ela/icity z ! fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dd4 ,outl9e ( ,fa%ion$ ,sleeve4 ,fig4 #dd is an outl9e ( approximately ! %ape ! sleeve %\ld be :5 f9i%$ & %[s ! direction ( ! wales & ! places :]e ! ones d\bl$ up t]m9ate4 ,?is is %[n on "o side & edge only1 al?\gh ! o!r side & edge w\ld be ! same4 ,x is und]/ood1 ( c\rse1 t ! sleeve is %[n op5$ up flat1 & 9 be+ put on a g>m5t w\ld be d\bl$ ov] & ! edges jo9$ on ! und]side ( ! arm4 ,to r$uce ! size f ! =e>m to ! wri/ or cuff x is usual1 9 sweat]s1 to dep5d on ! *ange to ! pla9 rib /it*1 = z expla9$ previ\sly ! pla9 rib w come out mu* n>r[] ?an ! half or full c>digan ) ! same numb] ( ne$les & ! same y>n4 ,9 und]we> & !atrical tights x is cu/om>y to fa%ion d[n ! =e>m to ! cuff4 ,_m knitt]s consid] x good practice to rev]se ?is =mula 9 fa%ion+2 t is1 to />t at ! cuff 9 ord] to h ! rack /it* on ! end ( ! cuff to save ! h& f9i%+4 ,9 ?is ev5t ! n>r[+ op]ation z describ$ w\ld be rev]s$1 or a wid5+ op]ation4 ,?is is done by pull+ up ! ?ree end ne$les & pu%+ !m d[n until ! /it*es drop (f on to ! deck]1 z 9 n>r[+1 b in/ead ( sett+ ^! /it*es 9 t[>ds ! c5t] we w\ld pu% up ano!r ne$le & set !m out "o4 ,?is w\ld leave ! f\r? ne$le )\t a /it*1 s we w\ld pick up ! previ\s /it*1 :i* _h be5 ca/ (f ( :at is n[ ! fif? ne$le & raise x up & hook x ov] ! f\r?4 ,?is is done ) "o po9t ( ! deck]4 ,aft] hav+ done ?is on bo? plates & on bo? sides ( ! sleeve1 :ile we w\ld h pu%$ f\r ne$les up into op]ation1 we w\ld h wid5$ only two4 ,:]e x is n consid]$ an advantage to h ! wid5+ /it*es %[1 ?is op]ation may be exp$it$ q a little by us+ ! hook %[n at b 9 ,fig4 #db1 :i* is a conv5i5t size to h&le1 ab\t "o-eigh? in* 9 diamet] by #f in*es long4 ,by ?is me?od we pu% up into op]ation ! new ne$le & simply cat* ) ! hook ! previ\s /it* ca/ (f ( ! end ne$le & hook x on to ! new ne$le on ! f\r corn]s z be=e describ$4 ,x is be/ to d ?is "o ne$le at a "t ) a c\rse betwe51 tak+ ! "o on ! plate t conta9s ! inside ne$le4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,automatic ,,flat ,,lat* ,,ne$le ,,ma*9es--,,s+le ,,lock ,,! t]m 8automatic0 z appli$ to ?is class ( ma*9e means t all ! *anges are made automatically1 z f pla9 /it* to half c>digan or full c>digan1 or vice v]sa1 *ang+ colors to make /rip$ "w1 mak+ ! rack /it* & back to pla9 rib1 *ang+ f rib to tubul> or j]sey /it*1 mak+ ! ,fr5* rack1 etc4 ,all ^! *anges may be made at any pr$et]m9$ place 9 ! "w )\t any att5tion f ! op]ator4 ,! ma*9es discuss$ up to ?is po9t may be presum$ to h be5 h& ma*9es1 t is1 op]at$ by manual p[]4 ,!re=e1 all *anges ( ! /it*1 y>n1 rack+1 etc41 may be done to advantage at ! prop] "t & place by ! op]ator z ! ma*9e requires 8 :ole att5tion anyway4 ,a pr]equisite ( an automatic ma*9e is ! op]at+ ( ! ma*9e by o!r ?an manual p[]1 !re=e automatic ma*9es are fir/ ( all :at are call$ p[] ma*9es4 ,?is does n imply by any means t all p[] ma*9es are automatic1 b r t all automatic ma*9es are p[] ma*9es4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #de4 ,dubi$ ,automatic ,s+le ,lock ,ma*9e4 ,fig4 #de %[s an automatic s+le-lock ma*9e built by ,dubi$ ,co4 9 ,switz]l&1 designat$ z ,type ,,vd1 :i* is a v good example ( ! automatic ma*9e4 ,x is op]at$ by ! belt ,a1 ,fig4 #df1 :i* runs x by a pulley ( ! clut* type :i* is locat$ back ( ! ma*9e4 ,! prop] movem5t is convey$ to ! c>riage ?r\gh a pair ( sprockets & *a9 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #df1 at m4 ,! c>riage is connect$ to ! driv+ *a9 at po9t m1 by ! connection rod n1 :i* obvi\sly mu/ foll[ ! *a9 back & =? ar\nd ! sprockets4 ,?is arrangem5t gives ! c>riage a uni=m movem5t dur+ ! "t x is op]at+ ! ne$les & is g5]ally conc$$ z sup]ior to ! crank sy/em ( driv+4 ,! lett] ,g1 ,fig4 #de1 indicates ! lev] = ?r[+ 9 ! clut* to />t ! ma*9e1 & ,f is ! crank = turn+ ! ma*9e by h&4 ,?is crank does n turn :5 ! ma*9e is run by p[] b hangs 9 ! position %[n4 ,! lett] ,s %[s ! ma9 or controll+ *a9 & #a & #b indicate ! rack+ *a9s4 ,^! w be tak5 up 9 m detail lat]4 ,lett] ,b indicates an +5i\s c\nt] arrangem5t = c\nt+ ! r\nds1 :i* p]mits ! use ( v %ort *a9s & w be expla9$ 9 due c\rse4 ,h & ,k are y>n c>ri]s1 ( :i* !re are five altoge!r4 ,! o!rs are on ! back & _c be se5 pla9ly4 ,t is ! yoke or bridge :i* holds ! two sides ( ! c>riage toge!r4 ,!re is no physical connection betwe5 ! two sides ( ! c>riage at ! po9t :]e ! locks are atta*$1 b ! connection is made ?r\gh ext5sions :i* c be se51 & ?r\gh ?is yoke4 ,on ^! ma*9es ! fabric is n held d[n by weights1 hang+ !reon1 z 9 ! h& ma*9es1 b by :at is call$ a take-up roll] :i* has means provid$ = adju/m5t to keep ! desir$ /ra9 on ! fabric at all times4 ,! weights :i* are 9 pla9 view are to hold ! fabric up to & 9 close contact ) ! take-up roll] ?r\gh a frame ) a small roll] on ! fabric side ( ! frame & ! weights on ! outside1 :i* "w on ! lev] & fulcrum pr9ciple4 ,an automatic ma*9e mu/ h a patt]n *a9 ( "s k9d or "* to op]ate its automatic functions4 ,means provid$ :i* w be expla9$ 9 :at foll[s cause ! desir$ *ange to be made at ! prop] "t & place4 ,! ma*9e "u discussion has a ma9 or controll+ *a9 made up f wire l9ks :i* may be tak5 out or add$ to at w1 ea* l9k measur+ ab\t #f in*es crosswise ( ! *a9 & ab\t "o-half in* l5g?wise ( ! *a94 ,?is *a9 is c>ri$ by a sprocket roll] at ! top & is held d[n on ?is roll] by its own weight1 ?\gh !re are gu>ds ov] ea* end to keep x f jump+ (f 9 case ( em]g5cy4 ,?is sprocket roll] is turn$ ! di/ance ( "o full l9k by ! c>riage depress+ ! lev] ,j1 & ?r\gh ?is m$ium act+ on ! rock] %aft ,i 7,fig4 #de7 :i* ext5ds ! l5g? ( ! ma*9e to ! sprocket roll]4 ,! latt] is 9 turn mov$ ! di/ance ( "o l9k by a pawl & rat*et4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #df4 ,automatic ,me*anism1 ,dubi$ ,ma*9e4 ,9 ,fig4 #df we h a view ( ?is ma9 *a9 at ,s1 ) ! lev]s on :i* x acts %[n at a to h4 ,^! lev]s sw+ on a small %aft1 at ! po9t :]e !y appe> to end1 ne> ! c5t] ( ! ma*9e4 ,in/ead ( end+ !re1 ea* has an ext5sion on ! o!r side ( ?is %aft :i* ext5ds at an angle & rea*es q close to ! *a94 ,^! lev]s1 ?\gh only ab\t ?ree-eigh?s ( an in* wide1 are arrang$ s ! angul> ext5sions und]nea? come 9 l9e lat]ally ) ea* o!r & crosswise ( ! *a91 or l5g?wise ( ! ma*9e1 & !y1 toge!r ) ! space betwe51 cov] practically ! :ole wid? ( ! *a94 ,^! lev]s sw+ freely crosswise ( ! ma*9e1 b are fix$ l5g?wise1 !re=e ! positions ( ! upp] ends c be v easily mov$ t[>d ! front or back ( ! ma*9e1 b are /ation>y 9 ! direction 9 :i* ! c>riage moves4 ,keep+ ?is 9 our m9d1 we w n[ ref] to ! ma9 *a9 %[n 9 ,fig4 #df at ,s4 ,x w be not$ t !re are a numb] ( /uds affix$ to ! *a9 :i* project up above ! *a9 prop]4 ,^! /uds may be put on at any desir$ spot & tak5 (f at w4 ,x is q obvi\s t if we fix a /ud on ?is *a9 at a spot 9 l9e ) "o ( ! lev]s1 let u say at lev] a1 :5 ! *a9 has mov$ =w>d to ! po9t :]e ?is /ud comes "u ! angul> ext5sion ( ! lev] ! position ( ! top ( ! lev] w\ld be *ang$4 ,& ?is new position w\ld be fix$ until ! c>riage has be5 mov$ to ! o!r end ( ! ma*9e & turn$ ! *a9 "o m l9k4 ,!n ! l[] end ( ! lev] w drop (f ! /ud & be return$ to its =m] position by a spr+4 ,x is ess5tial t ! read] get ^! explanations ( ! diff]5t p>ts & _! functions well fix$ 9 8 m9d 9 ord] to und]/& intellig5tly ! relation ( "o to ! o!r4 ,fig4 #dg is a draw+ ( ! cams & cam plates1 & ,fig4 #dh %[s ! top ( ! c>riage ) ! cams or locks m\nt$ und]nea?4 ,9 ! ,dubi$ ma*9e ?is "p ( ! c>riage on :i* ! locks are fix$ is deta*able1 & ei!r side may be tak5 (f sep>ately1 :i* arrangem5t is v conv5i5t at times4 ,at ! left ( ,fig4 #dh w be se5 sev]al slides1 designat$ by small lett]s1 :i* ext5d ?r\gh ! locks at diff]5t po9ts betwe5 ! cam plate & ! c>riage prop]1 & "s on ! top ( ! c>riage4 ,^! are ! ess5ce ( ! automatic control ( ! /it* =m+ me*anism4 ,?is pr9ciple is foll[$ 9 all automatic ma*9es ( ?is type1 al?\gh ! diff]5t build]s v>y 9 ! details ( con/ruction & 9 ! me?ods ( mov+ ^! slides1 z well z ! mann] ( op]at+ on ! cams & y>n c>ri]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dg4 ,cam ,arrangem5t ( ,dubi$ ,s+le ,lock ,ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dh4 ,top ,side ( ,c>riage ,directly ,ov] ,locks or ,cams1 ,dubi$ ,s+le ,lock ,ma*9e4 ,^! slides make ! prop] cam or y>n guide *anges by be+ pu%$ 9 or pull$ out1 z ! case may be1 & ?is is done by ! lev]s indicat$ by ! lett]s a to i1 ,fig4 #df4 ,ea* slide is provid$ ) a flat spot or %\ld]1 z indicat$ at m & o1 ,fig4 #dh1 :i* pu%es !m 9 ^u com+ 9 contact ) ! prop] lev] z ! c>riage rea*es ! extreme left end & is cle> ( ! ne$les4 ,9 ord] to h ^! slides mov$ 9 j ! prop] di/ance !re are projections f ! c>riage und]nea? ! slides ) bevel$ ends1 "p ( :i* may be se5 9 ,fig4 #dh at k & i1 :i* pu% ! lev]s (f ! be=e-m5tion$ %\ld]s & release ! slides at j ! prop] "t4 ,to expla9 ! draw+ out ( ^! slides1 x w be not$ t ea* slide has an enl>g$ "p or head & all h at lea/ "o "r angl$ %\ld] on ! inside ( ! head2 "s h two4 ,x w also be not$ t ea* "o has "u x a gu>d or ext5sion f ! c>riage1 :i* is fix$ to ! c>riage & is /ation>y1 z e & p4 ,?is ext5sion also has an enl>g$ "p or head on ! out] end1 b x is diff]5t f ! heads on ! lev]s 9 "o respect1 ?is head has slop+ %\ld]s on bo? ends in/ead ( ! "r angl$ %\ld]s t are on ! inside head ( ! slides4 ,:]e a fix$ gu>d or ext5sion has a slop+ %\ld] on bo? sides 7n ends7 !y w be f\nd to be at diff]5t di/ances f ! c>riage4 ,! "r angl$ %\ld]$ heads on ! slides are made 9 ?is way s t :5 ! prop] lev] 7,fig4 #df7 is plac$ 9 its pa?1 :i* is done by ! /uds atta*$ to ! ma9 *a9 ,s1 x w slide ov] ! head & drop 9 back ( ! %\ld] z ! c>riage moves to ! left1 & :5 ! c>riage moves to ! "r ! lev] cat*es on ! %\ld] & draws x out until ! lev] is releas$ by be+ pu%$ out by ! slop+ %\ld] ( ! ext5sion und]nea?4 ,:5 ! fix$ ext5sion has a slop+ %\ld] on bo? sides at diff]5t di/ances f ! c>riage prop] x w be f\nd t ! slide also has a "r angl$ %\ld] on bo? sides4 ,?is indicates t ?is slide may be mov$ to any "o ( ?ree diff]5t positions1 !re=e has a *oice ( ?ree diff]5t functions x may p]=m 9 ! automatic *anges4 ,*ang+ ,/it* ,to make ! *anges f pla9 rib to half or full c>digan1 or to pla9 j]sey1 etc41 ! slides h incl9$ planes "u ! cam plates & ^! engage not*es or p9s on /uds ext5d+ ?r\gh f ! cams & by ?is means raise ! cams up into ! cam plate out ( action1 or let !m d[n into action z ! case may be4 ,! illu/ration1 ,fig4 #dg1 %[s !m all d[n 9 ! prop] position to make ! pla9 rib or cuff /it*4 ,to *ange to half c>digan /it* x w\ld be necess>y to raise cam #c;b up out ( op]ation1 :i* is done by slide n4 ,fig4 #dh1 :i* 9 turn is mov$ to ! prop] position to accompli% ?is by ! lev] h1 ,fig4 #df4 ,?is slide has ?ree diff]5t positions1 !re=e ?ree diff]5t functions to p]=m 9 ! automatic *anges1 :i* are accompli%$ z foll[s3 ,to make a half c>digan /it* a l[ /ud 7!re are ?ree heights1 l[1 m$ium & high7 %\ld be plac$ s x w come "u lev] h4 ,:5 ?is takes place ! top end ( ?is lev] is mov$ to ! position :]e x w\ld engage ! upp] %\ld] ( slide n1 & on ! return ( ! c>riage x w\ld draw ?is slide out to its f>!/ po9t1 or until x is pu%$ (f ! %\ld] by ! tap] on t side ( ! gu>d or ext5sion p4 ,:5 ! slide is mov$ to ?is position x raises up & holds out ( op]ation cam #c;b1 ?us caus+ ! ma*9e to make ! half c>digan /it*4 ,?is %\ld be readily und]/ood f :at has gone be=e4 ,to *ange to pla9 rib /it* place a m$ium /ud "u ! same lev] 7h7 & its top position w be *ang$ to :]e x w pu% ! slide cle> 9 z ! c>riage moves to ! left4 ,on ! return movem5t ! lev] w engage ! %\ld] on ! opposite side & draw x out until releas$ by ! gu>d z be=e4 ,?is releases cam #c;b1 :i* drops d[n into work+ position4 ,! fact t ! slop+ %\ld]s on ea* side ( ! /ation>y gu>ds are at diff]5t di/ances f ! c>riage causes ?is slide1 n1 to be left 9 diff]5t positions accord+ to :i* side ! lev] h engages x4 ,9 ! ?ird *ange1 :i* makes ! ,fr5* rack or false knop /it*es1 x is necess>y to raise up out ( op]ation ! cams #c;b & #c;c4 ,to d ?is a high /ud %\ld be plac$ to come "u ! same lev] 7h71 :i* w\ld !n be mov$ to a position :]e x w\ld come 9 contact ) ! %\ld] v 7:i* is a "p ( ! slide n7 & w\ld pu% ! slide 9 until dis5gag$ by ano!r slop+ gu>d :i* _c be se54 ,:5 ! lev] drops back on to ! *a9 )\t any /uds "u x x is cle> ( all slides2 !re=e w make no *anges4 ,! o!r slides are mov$ 9 ! same way z ! "o j expla9$1 b ea* "o has ! "p1 :i* make8 ! *anges1 con/ruct$ 9 su* a mann] t x w op]ate t p>ticul> memb] ( ! locks = :i* x is int5d$4 ,*ang+ ! ,y>n ,c>ri]s ,!re is "o o!r *ange t is made by ^! lev]s & slides besides ! *anges 9 ! /it*1 & t is *ang+ ! y>n c>ri]s to make /ripes ( diff]5t colors4 ,?is is done1 n by *ang+ ! y>n 9 ! y>n c>ri]s z "o might imag9e1 b by provid+ a c>ri] = ea* y>n ne$$ & !n *ang+ ! c>ri]s4 ,^! c>ri]s are %[n at lett] k1 9 ,fig4 #df4 ,!y are n fix$ to ! c>riage b are atta*$ to a block :i* slides back & =? on ways or gibs :i* are %[n at #a1 #b1 #c & #d1 & rea* ! l5g? ( ! ma*9e4 ,! gibs are und]cut on a bevel on bo? edges & ! block is und]cut 9 ! same way1 s !y dovetail toge!r to keep ! block f lift+ (f1 yet are free to slide back & =? on ! gib4 ,^! blocks h a depression or are cut out on ! upp] edge ) a squ>e %\ld] at ea* end ( ! cut out1 & ! c>ri] is mov$ back & =? by a plung] :i* is atta*$ to ! c>riage & engages ^! %\ld]s4 ,9 ,fig4 #dg1 at lett] x1 are %[n ! plung]s1 & ,fig4 #dh1 lett] x1 %[s !m plac$ 9 ! block & atta*$ to ! c>riage4 ,^! plung]s are set to pick up ! desir$ y>n c>ri] by ! slide1 i1 on ! front1 & slide1 z1 on ! back4 7,fig4 #dh47 ,rack+ ,*a9s ,we w leave ! slides & lev]s = ! pres5t & give our att5tion to ! two rack+ *a9s %[n 9 ,fig4 #di at figures #a & #b4 ,inasmu* z ! rack /it* is made by a "p ( ! ma*9e entirely sep>ate & di/9ct f ! locks & c>riage1 t is1 ! ne$le plate1 obvi\sly x is necess>y to arrange means o!r ?an ! lev]s & slides on ! top ( ! ma*9e to d ?is automatically4 ,! me*anism us$ to d ! actual rack+ is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cb4 ,! illu/ration is accompani$ by an explanation ( ! requir$ movem5ts4 ,?is rack+ cam may be se5 9 ,fig4 #di at lett] ,r4 ,hav+ 9 m9d ! =m] explanation x is evid5t t to control ! rack+ x is necess>y to control ! pawls only :i* actuate ! rat*et4 ,?is is done by ! rack+ *a9s %[n 9 ,fig4 #di4 ,!y ( !mselves d no actual rack+1 b simply put ! pawls into action or out ( action1 z ! case may be1 at ! prop] "t4 ,^! *a9s hang on a sprocket roll] & are mov$ two l9ks at ea* r\nd ( ! ma*9e by ! same means z ! ma9 *a91 & are />t$ & /opp$ automatically by /uds on ! ma9 *a9 at any pr$et]m9$ "t4 ,!re are also two lev]s ov] ! top ( ea*1 & x is by means ( ^! lev]s t !y control ! pawls :i* actuate ! rack+ cam rat*et ?r\gh small rock] %afts4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #di4 ,rack+ ,*a9s & ,cam1 ,dubi$ ,automatic ,s+le ,lock ,ma*9e4 ,x w be not$ t ! *a9s h /uds atta*$1 simil> to ! ma9 *a91 :i* are /agg]$ or atta*$ alt]nately ne> bo? sides ( ! *a94 ,z ^! /uds pass "u & raise a lev] at ! top ( ! *a9 !y cause a pawl to act on ! rack+ cam rat*et1 !reby mak+ "o rack4 ,:5 ! c>riage makes ! next r\nd ! *a9 w\ld h mov$ =w>d s ! lev] j m5tion$ w\ld h dropp$ (f its /ud & ! /ud on ! o!r side ( ! *a9 w\ld move up to & "u ! second lev]1 :i* w\ld cause ! o!r pawl to act 9 ! opposite way & !re=e w\ld rack ! plate back to its />t+ po9t4 ,if two or m racks 9 ! same direction are desir$1 x w\ld only be necess>y to put two or m /uds 9 l9e on ! same side1 b rememb]+ t :]e ?is is done x is imp]ative t lat] ! same numb] be plac$ on ! o!r side s z to return ! rack+ plate to its orig9al position4 ,bo? ( ^! *a9s d ! same "w & 9 ! same mann]1 & ei!r "o may be select$ to d ! rack+ at any "t or place1 b bo? %\ld n & _c be op]at$ at ! same "t = !re is a v +5i\s arrangem5t :i* w /op ! "o automatically1 if work+1 imm$iately :5 ! o!r "o />ts4 ,! reason = provid+ two *a9s in/ead ( "o is to enable ! op]ator to make two diff]5t k9ds ( rack 9 "o g>m5t by sett+ ! /uds on "o *a9 = let u say a "o-ne$le rack1 & on ! o!r = a two-ne$le rack4 ,?is arrangem5t p]mits ! use ( v %ort *a9s1 z ! rack$ patt]n may repeat itself on ! *a9 any numb] ( times1 :]e if a s+le *a9 7 us$ x w\ld be necess>y to h a *a9 long en\gh to h a /ud = ea* "t ! plate rack$1 :5 two patt]ns are requir$1 & ?is w\ld necessitate ! use ( a v long *a9 at times4 ,"s few ye>s ago1 :5 automatic ma*9es 7 fir/ br\ght out1 all automatic functions 7 op]at$ f a s+le *a94 ,?is meant ! use ( v long & unwieldy *a9s _m times1 z x 0 necess>y to h a l9k 9 ! *a9 = ea* r\nd4 ,x 0 soon realiz$ t by /opp+ ! *a9 dur+ ! "t ! ma*9e 0 mak+ "o k9d ( fabric )\t a *ange1 :i* on mo/ "w is by f> ! great] "p1 & op]at+ x only :5 ne$$1 n only mu* "t & mat]ial 9 mak+ up ! *a9 w\ld be sav$1 b also mu* annoyance & tr\ble 9 provid+ means to keep ! *a9 f gett+ twi/$ or out ( place :ile runn+ w\ld be elim9at$4 ,control ( ,automatic ,*anges ,mo/ ( ! build]s h devis$ means to d ?is & "o ( ! be/ me?ods is ! cyl9d] or drum idea devis$ by ,dubi$ ,co41 :i* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ej4 ,to m easily ma/] ! explanation ( h[ ?is cyl9d] op]ates1 x %\ld be und]/ood t its only function is to c\nt ! r\nds & />t ! ma9 *a9 at ! prop] po9t1 ! *a9 /opp+ itself aft] hav+ caus$ ! automatic *anges necess>y at t po9t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ej4 ,c\nt+ ,drum = ,%ort ,*a9 ,arrangem5t1 ,dubi$ ,ma*9es4 ,! device consi/s ( a cyl9d] ab\t #aj to #ab in*es long by ab\t #f in*es 9 diamet]1 ar\nd :i* are cut two spiral grooves1 ! l>g] ( :i* is us$ to atta* /ops & ! small] to act z a guide = ! f+]s i & j1 :i* ext5d d[n into & run 9 ! n>r[ groove & c>ry ! :ole block1 includ+ ! =ks k & l1 =w>d or backw>d on ! rods g & h1 accord+ to :i* way ! cyl9d] is turn+4 ,! cyl9d] is divid$ 9 its circumf]5ce by ! l9es into #a1jjj divisions1 & is turn$ ! di/ance ( "o division ea* r\nd ( ! ma*9e by means ( ! roll] on ! lug o1 :i* raises ! lev] a1 :i* 9 its turn raises ! pawl c1 & its duplicate on ! back1 :i* _c be se54 ,x c v easily be not$ h[ ! pawl c engages ! outside rat*et & on be+ rais$ x w\ld obvi\sly turn ! drum "o too? ( ! rat*et :eel4 ,! back pawl op]ates on ! c5t] rat*et :eel & inasmu* z ?is rat*et :eel is cut ! opposite way f ! outside "o1 & ! pawl is on ! opposite side1 x is pla9 t :5 ! back pawl is 9 op]ation ! cyl9d] w turn backw>d4 ,bo? pawls raise ea* "t ! lev] is rais$1 b only "o at a "t c engage ! rat*ets & ! "o :i* engages is gov]n$ by ! /ops ,a or ,e on ! cyl9d]4 ,?is is done by two gu>ds1 "o ( :i* may be se5 at d1 :ile ! o!r w\ld be betwe5 ! back pawl & its rat*et1 !re=e ?is back pawl c\ld n op]ate4 ,^! gu>ds are m\nt$ on a triangul> or ?ree-corn]$ frame :i* is pivot$ at ! c5t] on ! cyl9d] %aft ) ! gu>ds m\nt$ on ! two l[] corn]s1 :ile ! ?ird corn] is engag$ by ! lev] n1 :i* 9 turn is secur$ to ! rod h4 ,n[ x is pla9 t if ! bottom or base ( ?is triangle is mov$ =w>d or t[>d ! ma*9e1 ! front gu>d w\ld move "u & dis5gage ! front pawl :ile ! back gu>d w\ld move d[n & free ! back pawl & all[ x to op]ate on its rat*et :eel4 ,keep+ ?is triangul> arrangem5t 9 m9d we w turn our att5tion to ! block1 ( :i* ! f+]s i & j1 & ! =ks k & l1 =m a "p4 ,z not$ be=e !re are ?ree f+]s ext5d+ d[n to ! cyl9d] f ! block1 two ( :i* 7i & j7 rea* d[n to b d n t\* ! cyl9d]1 :ile ! ?ird "o1 :i* is betwe5 ^! two1 engages 9 ! small] ( ! two grooves4 ,! block is con/ruct$ s x mu/ move l5g?wise ( ! rod z "o piece1 b ea* "p is free to move lat]ally indep5d5t ( ano!r4 ,! block is n fix$ 9 any mann] to ! top rod & ! only positive connection x has ) ! l[] rod h is ) a key 9 ! c5t] f+] :i* engages 9 a keyway :i* is cut ! full l5g? ( ! rod4 ,x %\ld n[ be cle> to ! read] t s long z !re is no ob/ruction plac$ 9 ! pa? ( ! c5t] f+] x w simply foll[ ! small groove & gradually move ov] t[>d ! "r 7if ! front pawl is op]at+ & ! top ( ! cyl9d] is turn+ away f y7 until x comes to ! ,/op1 ,e1 :i* x w be not$ lies across its pa?4 ,on acc\nt ( ! key 9 ?is c5t] f+] engag+ ! keyway 9 ! rod h1 x naturally foll[s t :5 ! f+] comes up to ! /op ,e1 ! next movem5t ( ! cyl9d] w sw+ x away f y & ?is turn ( ! rod h1 w sw+ ! lev] n1 & ?r\gh ?is w sw+ ! triangle on :i* ! gu>ds d1 are m\nt$1 br++ ! front gu>d d up "u ! front pawl & at ! same "t w free ! back pawl on ! c5t] rat*et1 !reby rev]s+ ! movem5t ( ! cyl9d]4 ,^u ! return ( ! block to its />t+ po9t at ! left end ( ! cyl9d]1 its direction ( movem5t is aga9 rev]s$ 9 ! same way by ! /op ,a4 ,/op ,a is set at division ,o & is nev] mov$1 b /op ,e may be plac$ at any numb] ( ! divisions correspond+ to ! numb] ( r\nds 9 ! g>m5t4 ,?is po9t w be tak5 up aga9 fur!r along4 ,n[ to give our att5tion to ! side f+]s i & j4 ,^! are con/ruct$ s t ! left "o1 or i1 w sw+ freely t[>d y b an attempt to sw+ x away f y w engage ! =k k1 :i* by contact w\ld sw+ ! rod g1 :i* ?r\gh ! connection f w\ld raise ! lev] e1 & ?is by a pull on ! cord m w\ld />t ! ma9 *a9 9 motion4 ,! "r f+] j works 9 precisely ! same mann]1 only t x sw+s freely :5 mov$ away f y & />ts ! ma9 *a9 9 motion :5 mov$ t[>d y1 by contact ( ! =k l ) rod g4 ,) ! =ego+ 9 m9d x %\ld h>dly be necess>y to expla9 t ! /ops ,c & ,d are = ! purpose ( putt+ ! ma9 *a9 9 motion by com+ 9 contact ) ! f+]s i or j2 ,c to op]ate :5 ! cyl9d] is turn+ ! top away f y by tripp+ f+] i1 & ,d :5 x turns t[>d y by tripp+ f+] j4 ,x w be not$ t ! /ops ,a & ,e h %ort ext5sions :i* ext5d =w>d along ! side ( ! small groove4 ,^! cause ! side f+]s1 i or j1 to />t ! ma9 *a9 at ! same "t t ! direction ( ! movem5t ( ! cyl9d] *anges4 ,if = any reason ?is is n desir$1 a /op l ,b may be us$ in/ead ( ^!1 & !n ! cyl9d] w rev]se )\t />t+ ! ma9 *a94 ,go+ back to ! sett+ ( /op ,e1 :]e ! g>m5t to be made has less ?an #a1jjj r\nds1 x is cu/om>y to set ?is /op z well z ! int]m$iate /ops1 l ,c & ,d1 to make a complete g>m5t on its =w>d movem5t & a second "o on its return4 ,b if ! g>m5t %\ld h m ?an #a1jjj r\nds1 let u say #a1ejj1 !n /op ,e w\ld be set on division #gej & ! small /ops l ,c1 :i* are = tripp+ ! f+] i1 w\ld be plac$ at ! prop] place to />t ! ma9 *a9 = ! automatic *anges 9 ! fir/ half ( ! g>m5t4 ,! /ops l ,d1 :i* are = tripp+ ! f+] j1 w\ld d ! same = ! la/ half ( ! g>m5t4 ,if !re is no *ange to be made 9 ! middle ( ! g>m5t ! knitt] may avoid x by ei!r "o ( two means2 ei!r by us+ a /op l ,b1 :i* w rev]se ! movem5t ( ! cyl9d] )\t />t+ ! ma9 *a91 or by us+ a /op l ,e1 :i* />ts ! ma9 *a9 at ! same "t x rev]ses ! movem5t ( ! cyl9d]1 b 9 ?is ev5t he mu/ put 9 ! ma9 *a9 two extra l9ks ) a /ud atta*$ = /opp+ ! *a9 imm$iately aft] />t+ )\t act+ ^u any ( its automatic me*anism4 ,if ! fabric be+ made does n require ! use ( ! cyl9d] all t x is necess>y to d to /op x is to raise up ! lev] a1 & draw ! roll] b out aga9/ ! head ( its /ud4 ,control ( ,y>n ,up to ?is po9t ! y>n guides & c>ri]s h be5 m5tion$ only incid5tally s we w n[ take !m up 9 m detail4 ,:]e !re is only "o ?read & guide on a ma*9e x is a v simple matt] to control x b 9 ! mod]n full automatic ma*9es1 :]e !re are sev]al ?reads & guides1 & !y mu/ be arrang$ s t any "o on a s+le lock ma*9e1 or any two on a d\ble lock1 may be select$ at w1 x becomes m ( a problem4 ,!re is ano!r po9t t mu/ be tak5 into consid]ation 9 connection ) ?is4 ,t is1 9 ! automatic ma*9es ! c>riage mu/ travel ! full l5g? ( ! ma*9e b mu* ( ! fabric made on ^! ma*9es does n take ! :ole wid?4 ,!re=e if ! y>n c>ri] 0 c>ri$ ! full l5g? ) ! locks !re w\ld be at ! end ( ea* c\rse a consid]able l5g? ( y>n1 rea*+ f ! edge ( ! fabric to ! y>n c>ri]1 :i* x w\ld be v difficult1 if n impossible1 to draw back ?r\gh ! y>n guide4 ,!re mu/ be no slack y>n betwe5 ! edge ( ! fabric & ! y>n guide :5 />t+ to knit across on a c\rse4 ,to obviate ^! difficulties ! y>n c>ri]s are atta*$ to blocks :i* 9 turn are m\nt$ on ways or b>s :i* rea* ! full l5g? ( ! ma*9e & may be se5 9 ,fig4 #df1 & are indicat$ by ! figures #a1 #b1 #c & #d 9 :ite4 ,?is has be5 expla9$ 9 "p be=e1 toge!r ) ! mann] ( op]at+ ! c>ri]s ) plung]s1 b ,i wi% to call ! read]'s att5tion to x aga9 z x has a direct connection ) :at foll[s4 ,to prev5t ! y>n c>ri] f foll[+ ! locks to ! end ( _! travel1 & !reby accumulat+ y>n betwe5 ! guide & ! edge ( ! fabric1 !re is a /op plac$ at ea* end ( ! fabric to /op ! c>ri] at ! prop] po9t4 ,"o ( ^! /ops may be se5 9 ,fig4 #di1 at ,q4 ,?is may be plac$ 9 any desir$ spot & is held 9 place by a p9 :i* engages 9 "o ( ! holes 9 ! way or b>1 :i* holes may be pla9ly se54 ,?is /op consi/s ( a base or block :i* slides on to ! way on ! dovetail pr9ciple4 ,on ! top edge ( ?is base !re is a ?9 /rip ab\t #d in*es long by ab\t "o-half in* wide1 :i* is bevel$ d[n f ! top to ! bottom edge on bo? ends4 ,:5 ! c>riage ) ! y>n c>ri] approa*es ?is /op ! c>ri] comes j "u ?is top /rip & ! po9t ( ! /rip comes j "u ! end ( ! plung] ,x1 ,fig4 #dh1 also ,fig4 #eb1 :i* z expla9$ be=e moves ! y>n c>ri]4 ,z ! c>riage moves f>!r along1 ! plung] slides up ! incl9e or bevel ( ! /rip & is rais$ out ( engagem5t ) ! %\ld] on ! y>n c>ri] block1 & ! c>ri] /ops :ile ! c>riage completes ! l5g? ( its travel4 ,^u ! return ( ! c>riage ! plung] w slide ov] ! /rip on ! /op1 drop into ! op5+ ( ! y>n c>ri] block1 & engage ! opposite %\ld] & take ! y>n c>ri] back ) x on ! return c\rse1 :]e x w be releas$ on ! o!r side 9 ! same mann] z j expla9$4 ,y>n ,take-,up ,spr+ ,no matt] h[ close to ! edge ( ! fabric ! y>n guide may be /opp$1 unless ! y>n is kept taut ! selvage w n be p]fect1 !re=e a v insignificant appe>+ b q important adjunct call$ ! y>n take-up spr+ is provid$ to d ?is4 ,!re is "o provid$ = ea* y>n guide & _! position 9 relation to ! ma*9e may be se5 at ! top ( ! y>n /& 9 ,fig4 #de1 :ile "o is %[n 9 detail 9 ,fig4 #ea4 ,! spr+ is a coil spr+ turn$ ar\nd ! /ud1 f1 & atta*$ at ! inn] end4 ,! out] end is a "p ( ?is spr+ /raight5$ out z at b1 ) an eye turn$ 9 ! end at d4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ea4 ,y>n ,/& & ,take ,up ,spr+4 ,by turn+ ! top ( ! /ud f away f y x w put m pull or t5sion on ! spr+1 & by turn+ t[>d y less4 ,! y>n is drawn f ! bobb91 e1 ?r\gh an eye directly ov] ! bobb91 !n ?r\gh a hole 9 ! t5sion /ud at a1 !n ?r\gh an eye ( ! spr+1 !n d[n ?r\gh ano!r eye 9 ! /& at g1 & directly to ! y>n guide ( ! ma*9e4 ,! t5sion a prev5ts ! spr+ f draw+ any y>n f ! bobb91 !re=e x w always draw ! slack y>n f ! y>n guide & keep x taut at all times4 ,!re mu/ be a take-up spr+ = ea* ?read 9 use & t means t !re are sometimes z _m z eight or t5 on "o /&4 ,we h _h a draw+ ( ! d\ble lock 9 ,fig4 #dj1 %[+ ! cam side ) an explanation ( h[ x works & its advantages1 s n[ we w %[ only ! top c>riage side 9 ,fig4 #eb1 ) its appurt5ances = ! automatic *anges4 ,be> 9 m9d t :5 slides or plung]s are m5tion$ 9 ! foll[+ explanation ref]5ce is made to ,fig4 #eb1 & :5 cams are m5tion$ ref]5ce is _h to ,fig4 #dj4 ,/it* ,*anges ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eb4 ,top ,side ( ,c>riage ,directly ,ov] ,locks1 ,dubi$ ,automatic ,d\ble ,lock ,ma*9e4 ,slide a op]ates on cams #a;b & #d;b to *ange f pla9 to c>digan1 or vice v]sa1 & is us$ 9 mak+ ! full c>digan /it*4 ,slide b & g1 work+ 9 conjunction ) d & e1 are = *ang+ ! l5g? ( /it*1 :i* w be expla9$ m fully lat]4 ,slides c & f are = *ang+ ! y>n c>ri]s to *ange colors4 ,! ex*ange ( c>ri]s at ! end ( ea* c\rse 9 ord] to keep ! cotton c>ri] fe$+ into ! cams t are lead+ 7:]e cotton & wor/$ or wool is us$7 is ano!r matt] & %\ld n be confus$ ) ?is4 ,slide h op]ates on cams #b;b & #c;b to *ange f pla9 to half c>digan1 or vice v]sa1 also on ^! cams toge!r ) cams #b;c & #c;c to make ! ,fr5* rack or false knop4 ,slides i & j op]ate cams #a;a1 #b;a1 #c;a & #d;a to make tubul> "w1 or to be m explicit1 !y raise "o pair ( ^! cams up out ( op]ation :ile ! o!r pair knit only on "o side alt]nately & 9 ?is way knit j]sey fabric 9 tubul> =m4 ,to g back to slides b & g1 9 ord] to und]/& ?is explanation x w be necess>y to return aga9 to ,fig4 #dj4 ,:at are call$ ! /it* cams1 or cams #a to #aj1 are atta*$ to ! cam plates ?r\gh elongat$ slots1 ! ends ( :i* may be se5 at ! top & bottom ( ! cams4 ,! cams1 ?\gh atta*$ to ! plate1 may be easily mov$ l5g?wise ( ^! slots4 ,on ! "u side ( ! plate is a coil spr+ ) "o end atta*$ to a /ud 9 ! cams1 :ile ! o!r end is atta*$ to ! bottom edge ( ! plate4 ,^! spr+s w always draw ! cams to ! l[e/ end ( ! slots if no?+ is plac$ 9 ! way4 ,be> 9 m9d t ! bottom ( ! l[] plate is ! l[] edge & ! bottom ( ! top plate is ! top edge1 9 ! draw+4 ,to *ange ! l5g? ( ! /it* x is necess>y to raise or l[] ^! cams4 ,to draw a long] /it* !y w\ld be mov$ t[>d ! bottom ( ! plate & = a %ort] "o t[>d ! top4 ,n[ x is cle> t 9 ord] to *ange ! l5g? ( ! /it* automatically x is only necess>y to provide /ops ( ! prop] height = !m to re/ on :5 pull$ d[n by ! be=e-m5tion$ spr+s4 ,! cam /uds to :i* ! spr+s are atta*$ are long en\gh to rea* up ?r\gh ! c>riage prop] & may be se5 re/+ on ! end ( ! p9s ,,ii1 ,fig4 #eb4 ,! read] ( a me*anical turn ( m9d %\ld be able to grasp ! modus op]&i ( ! automatic *ang+ ( ! l5g? ( ! /it* f ! explanation up to ?is po9t1 b to cont9ue we w ref] aga9 to ! p9s indicat$ by ! ,roman num]als ,i1 ,,ii1 & ,,iii1 ,fig4 #eb4 ,x w be not$ t !re are a set ( ?ree ( ^! p9s = ea* /it* or draw cam1 !re=e ! knitt] may *ange to any "o ( ?ree diff]5t l5g?s ( /it* at 8 option by rais+ or l[]+ ^! p9s4 ,! p9s mu/ ( c\rse be set individually at ! prop] height1 ea* "o = its own l5g? ( /it*1 be=e />t+ ! ma*9e4 ,inasmu* z all ! p9s on ! front side are atta*$ to "o slide1 & ! p9s on ! back are atta*$ to ano!r1 all t x is necess>y to d to *ange ! l5g? ( ! /it* is to *ange ! p9s on :i* ! be=e-m5tion$ cam /uds re/1 !y be+ held d[n on ! p9s by ! coil spr+ betwe5 ! c>riage prop] & ! cam plate4 ,?is is done ) slides b & g1 9 conjunction ) slides e & d1 :i* raise ! cams & /uds up s !y w n cat* betwe5 ! p9s :ile ! *ange is be+ made4 ,9 ! meantime slides b & g move ! desir$ p9s to ! position :]e ! /uds c drop on !m :5 ! slides e & d are return$ to _! runn+ position1 :i* position all[s /uds to drop on _! respective p9s1 ) ! exception ( ! pair ( cams at ! extreme "r1 :i* are held up = "o c\rse4 ,?is is ano!r +5i\s & practical arrangem5t :i* des]ves an explanation1 b ?is leads u to ano!r po9t :i* %\ld be gone into fir/4 ,t is1 :5 ! cams are *ang$ to make a %ort /it* aft] hav+ made a long "o1 ! hold+ up ( ! "r pair ( /it* cams = "o c\rse is ( no b5efit4 ,b 9 *ang+ f a %ort /it* to a long "o1 inasmu* z ! "r pair ( /it* cams pass ov] ! ne$le butts be=e ! new c\rse is made1 if !y 7 all[$1 prep>atory to draw+ a long] /it* 9 ! next c\rse1 to drop d[n to a po9t bel[ :]e ! previ\s /it* 0 drawn1 !y w\ld ride on ! butts ( ! ne$les & cause undue /ra9 on ! /it*es ( t c\rse & w\ld be v liable to break !m1 !reby mak+ holes 9 ! fabric4 ,?is is prev5t$ by hold+ up ^! two cams "o c\rse4 ,?is is done by provid+ two cat*es to receive & hold !m :5 !y are rais$ at ! left ( ! ma*9e1 b :5 ! c>riage is mov$ to ! extreme "r ( ! ma*9e ! two small lev]s1 l & k1 come 9 contact ) two /uds & release ! cat*es1 & all[ ! two cams to drop d[n on _! respective p9s4 ,x has be5 expla9$ t 9 mak+ :at are kn[n z cotton backs & l fabrics ! cotton y>n1 or y>n t mu/ %[ on "o side only1 mu/ at all times be f$ 9 ! locks t are 9 ! lead1 on a d\ble lock ma*9e1 :ile ! wor/$ or wool y>n :i* %[s on ! o!r side mu/ fe$ into ! foll[+ pair4 ,to d ?is ! y>n c>ri]s mu/ be ex*ang$ at ! end ( ea* c\rse4 ,to expla9 h[ ?is is done we w ref] to ,fig4 #eb1 :]e ! plung]s t engage ! y>n c>ri] blocks & moves !m back & =? ) ! locks1 are %[n at x & y4 ,^! plung]s nev] take m ?an two c>ri]s at "o "t4 ,9 ^! ma*9es !re may be f\r or m b>s or ways = y>n c>ri]s1 & 9 ! prec$+ explanation ( h[ ! y>n c>ri]s are /opp$ we assum$ t ! c>ri]s 9 "q 7 be+ op]at$ on ! l[] ways by ! outside end ( ! plung]s x4 ,= ?is pres5t explanation we w assume t we are us+ ! c>ri]s on ! top b> or way1 & !y w\ld be op]at$ by ! end ( ! plung]s t[>ds ! c5t] ( ! c>riage4 ,x w be recall$ t :5 ! y>n c>ri] block comes to ! /op at ! edge ( ! fabric1 ! plung] is rais$ out ( engagem5t ) its %\ld]1 & ! block /ops :ile ! plung] passes on4 ,:5 ! c>ri] block t is be+ mov$ across by ! plung] 9 ! lead /ops1 ! "o t foll[s w also pass ov] ! block )\t mov+ x1 z ! outside end ( ! block is bevel$ (f to compel ?is4 ,x w be notic$ t ! inside ends ( ! back plung]s at y are flatt5$1 & ! flat sides are at "r angles to ! travel ( ! c>riage4 ,n[ we w assume ! c>riage is travel+ f "r to left1 & ! cotton c>ri] is be+ mov$ along by ! plung] 9 ! lead1 or y on ! left4 ,:5 ?is c>ri] comes to ! /op on ! left ?is plung] leaves x !re & passes on1 also ! plung] on ! "r w pass on ov] ! c>ri] block4 ,b ^u ! return ( ! c>riage mov+ t[>d ! "r ! fir/ plung] com+ 9 contact ) ! y>n c>ri] block1 :i* w\ld be y on ! "r & :i* w\ld n[ be 9 ! lead1 w\ld engage ! %\ld] ( ! block & take x across4 ,x w be not$ t ! two front plung]s are also flatt5$ at x1 b are diff]5t f ! back ones 9 ?is respect2 ! inside flat is at "r angles to ! travel ( ! c>riage :ile ! outside flats are at an angle ( ab\t #de degrees4 ,! y>n c>ri] op]at$ on ?is side is /opp$ at ! edge ( ! fabric ) ! plung]s pass+ ov] & beyond x ! same z ! back "o4 ,b ^u ! return ( ! c>riage ! fir/ plung] _c pick up ! c>ri] block z ! side ( ! plung] com+ 9 contact ) ! %\ld] ( ! block is bevel$ (f & _c cat*1 b :5 ! second plung] comes along ) its flat side at "r angles to its movem5t1 x w engage ! %\ld] ( ! c>ri] block & take x along4 ,x may h be5 notic$ 9 ,fig4 #de t ! ma*9e illu/rat$ has two sep>ate fabrics on x4 ,?is is done v (t5 :5 a knitt] has a l>ge ma*9e & has no wide "w to make4 ,he simply utilizes ! great] "p ( ! ma*9e by mak+ two n>r[ fabrics4 ,:5 ?is is done bo? fabrics mu/ be ! same v]tically or l5g?wise ( ! fabric1 b !y may be ( diff]5t wid?s & ( diff]5t colors4 ,?is is made possible by ! sy/em ( c>ri]s & blocks m\nt$ on ways toge!r ) ! /ops1 z j describ$4 ,!re are two c>ri]s m\nt$ on ea* way or b>1 in/ead ( "o z previ\sly expla9$1 & /ops are plac$ at ea* side ( bo? fabrics s ! plung]s1 ei!r y or x or bo?1 accord+ to h[ _m c>ri]s are 9 use1 w drop "o c>ri] at ! edge ( "o ( ! fabrics & pick up ! o!r c>ri] to knit ! c\rse on ! second fabric4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,! ,,automatic ,,wid5+ ,,ma*9e--,,explanation ,,( ,,me*anism ,,us$ ,,we h expla9$ :at fa%ion$ "w is & h[ x is done by h&4 ,fig4 #ec %[s a ma*9e built by ,dubi$ ,co41 :i* does ?is "w by wid5+ ! fabric automatically 9 ! knitt+ op]ation4 ,x is call$ an automatic wid5+ ma*9e1 & is p>ticul>ly adapt$ to mak+ sleeves4 ,x ov]comes ! pr9cipal objection knitt]s h to mak+ %ap$ "w--t is1 ! extra labor involv$1 & has ! advantages be=e-m5tion$--namely1 no mat]ial to be cut away to get ! %ape1 a selv$ge edge :i* means a small neat seam1 & ! prop] %ape = a prop] fit4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ec4 ,automatic ,wid5+ ,ma*9e1 ,dubi$4 ,! ,wid5+ ,device ,to ! casual obs]v]1 ! wid5+ ma*9e w\ld look to be a v complicat$ piece ( me*anism1 b z a matt] ( fact ! wid5+ device is surpris+ 9 its simplicity4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ed4 ,wid5+ ,me*anism1 ,dubi$ ,automatic ,wid5+ ,ma*9e4 ,fig4 #ed %[s ! pr9ciple ( ! me?od us$4 ,! draw+ does n by any means reproduce ! p>ts z made1 b only %[s ! pr9ciple employ$ to secure ^! results1 ) all sup]flu\s p>ts elim9at$4 ,! ma*9e prop] is a full automatic ma*9e1 practically ! same z we h j f9i%$ ) 9 ! la/ article1 ) ! exception ( ! ne$le plates & ! ne$les t are us$1 & ! addition ( ! wid5+ me*anism4 ,! ne$le plates are made almo/ twice z wide z ! regul> plates1 ) a gib runn+ ?r\gh ! middle ( ! l[] "p z %[n4 ,! ne$les us$ = ! n>r[e/ "p ( ! fabric1 & :i* are nev] us$ 9 ! wid5+ op]ation1 are %[n by ! lett] a 9 ,fig4 #ef1 & h "o butt only z indicat$ at b4 ,! ne$les us$ 9 wid5+ h "o butt at ! same di/ance f ! hook z ! regul> ne$les1 z at c1 & 9 addition to ?is !y h a second butt at ! l[] end ( ! %ank ext5sion :i* rea*es d[n "u ! n>r[ gib to ! l[] half ( ! plate1 z indicat$ at d4 ,! slot 9 ! ne$le plate1 at ! l[] edge1 is cut all ! way ?r\gh ! plate up to a po9t :i* w\ld ab\t equal ! di/ance betwe5 ! ne$les up 9 work+ position & ! ne$les d[n4 ,!re are ne$le spr+s1 %[n at n 9 ,fig4 #ed1 bel[ ea* ne$le :i*1 :5 ! ne$les are d[n1 project j bel[ ! bottom edge ( ! plate1 & :5 pu%$ up to hold ! ne$les 9 work+ position w\ld h _! l[] ends ab\t :]e ! l[] butts ( ! wid5+ ne$les are :5 d[n1 z %[n4 ,! ne$le spr+ is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ef1 at e1 9 its position relative to ! ne$le1 ! upp] portion at e fitt+ 9 ! ne$le slot bel[ ! ne$le1 :ile ! l[] "p acts z a clamp on ! "u side ( ! plate4 ,! lev] %[n at f 9 ,fig4 #ed1 toge!r ) ! slide g & ! /op h1 is enclos$ 9 a ca/ block & !y1 toge!r ) ! y>n c>ri] /op i1 move freely l5g?wise ( ! small %aft e4 ,!re is atta*$ to ?is block a cord q1 :i* runs ov] ! small pulley o ) a weight atta*$ z at p4 ,x naturally foll[s t ?is weight w\ld pull ! block1 lev]1 c>ri] /op & all1 ov] to ! extreme "r if !re 7 no?+ 9 ! way to /op x4 ,! /op h is = ?is purpose4 ,x is /ation>y 9 ! block & ext5ds up to ! plate1 :ile ! slide g is cut back f> en\gh to cle> ! l[] ends ( ! spr+s n :i* are bel[ ! ne$les4 ,pu%+ ,ne$le ,into ,work+ ,position ,inasmu* z ^! spr+s ext5d a trifle bel[ ! plate :5 ! long ne$les are d[n & ! /op h comes up 9 close proximity to ! bottom edge ( ! plate1 ?is /op w engage ! left side ( ! spr+ & prev5t ! block1 toge!r ) ! lev] f & slide g1 f mov+ t[>d ! "r4 ,n[ 9 ord] to wid5 ! fabric "o /it* or wale x is simply necess>y to pu% ! ne$le r up into work+ position4 ,?is is done by mov+ ! cam block1 a1 longitud9ally1 :i* w\ld necess>ily raise ! lev] d1 :i*1 ?r\gh ! rock] %aft e & lev] f1 w\ld pu% ! slide g1 toge!r ) ! spr+ n & ne$le r1 up high en\gh to put ?is ne$le into work+ position4 ,x %\ld be und]/ood t !re are f\r ( ^! wid5+ me*anisms z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ed1 "o on ea* end ( bo? front & back ne$le plates1 b z !y are all op]at$ 9 ! same mann] x w be necess>y to describe & expla9 b "o4 ,n[ to expla9 h[ ?is is done automatically we w ref] to ,fig4 #ee1 :i* %[s ! cam side ( ! c>riage ( ! automatic wid5+ ma*9e4 ,x w be not$ t on ! ends ( ! f\r fix$ ext5sions b#a1 b#b1 b#c & b#d1 !re are roll]s a#a to a#d1 atta*$ ) %\ld]$ screws ^: heads are flu% ) ! end ( ! roll]s4 ,z we are deal+ ) only "o we w select a#a1 :i* is ! "o t w\ld op]ate on ! block a1 ,fig4 #ed1 :5 turn$ ov] & plac$ on ! ma*9e4 ,?is roll] is 9 ! prop] position to engage ! cam b 7,fig4 #ed7 :5 ! c>riage is at ! "r end ( ! ma*9e1 & :5 ! c>riage is at ! end ( its travel ! roll] w\ld be at ab\t ! po9t ,b4 ,x naturally foll[s t inasmu* z cam b is atta*$ to ! block a on an incl9$ plane1 & ! block a is atta*$ to ! frame ( ! ma*9e 9 su* a mann] t x _c move l5g?wise ( ! ma*9e1 b may be mov$ freely 9 an up-&-d[n direction1 :5 ! roll] moves ?r\gh ! camway betwe5 cam b & cam c ! block mu/ move upw>d1 !reby pu%+ up "o ne$le4 ,^u ! return ( ! c>riage ! roll] com+ 9 contact ) cam c w return ! block to its fir/ position4 ,:5 ! block a is mov$ d[n by ! roll]1 aft] pu%+ up ! ne$le1 x mu/ necess>ily draw ! slide g back to ! position %[n1 & inasmu* z ! lev] f slides freely l5g?wise on ! %aft e1 & !re is no?+ to prev5t1 ! weight p w draw all ( ?is "p ( ! me*anism ov] "o ne$le or until ! /op h comes 9 contact ) ! next ne$le spr+ n4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ee4 ,"u or ,cam ,side ( ,c>riage1 ,dubi$ ,automatic ,wid5+ ,ma*9e4 ,n[1 x %\ld be und]/ood t1 z a rule1 a fabric is n wid5$ a ne$le ea* r\nd1 !re=e ! block a 7,fig4 #ed7 is arrang$ s x w drop bel[ ! plane ( travel ( ! roll] a#a 7,fig4 #ee7 :5 wid5+ is n desir$4 ,p]haps x w\ld be m correct to say t ! normal position ( block a is bel[ ! plane ( travel ( ! roll] a#a1 !re=e out ( op]ation & is rais$ up 9 ! pa? ( ?is roll] by a /ud on ! wid5+ *a9 ,a1 ,fig4 #ec1 at ! prop] "t to pu% ! ne$le up into op]ation4 ,^u ! return ( ! c>riage x drops d[n to its normal position until ano!r ne$le is to be add$ to ! fabric4 ,! position ( ! block a 9 ,fig4 #ed1 9 relation to ! re/ ( ! ma*9e1 may be se5 at ,b 9 ,fig4 #ec4 ,return+ ! ,ne$les ,z /at$ be=e1 a fabric to be %ap$ on ?is ma*9e mu/ be />t$ at its n>r[e/ "p1 !re=e :5 ! g>m5t or "p ( a g>m5t is f9i%$1 ^! ne$les :i* h be5 pu%$ up to wid5 x mu/ be return$ to _! l[e/ position :]e !y are out ( op]ation1 9 ord] to />t a new piece4 ,?is is :]e ! second & l[] butts ( ! ne$les come into use4 ,!y are op]at$ on by ! cams c#a to c#d1 & d#a to d#d1 ,fig4 #ee4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ef4 ,ne$les & ,ne$le ,spr+s ,us$ 9 ,automatic ,wid5+ ,ma*9e4 ,^! cams are arrang$ s t normally !y are rais$ up 9 ! cam plate & pass ov] ! l[] butts ( ! ne$les1 b !y may be l[]$ to op]ate ! ne$les & rais$ aga91 all automatically1 at ! prop] "t & place by slides & lev]s simil> to ^? describ$ 9 a previ\s article on ! automatic ma*9e4 ,! mann] ( return+ ! wid5+ ne$les to _! l[e/ position s !y w be out ( op]ation %\ld be obvi\s to ! read] aft] ! =ego+ explanations & a /udy ( ! illu/rations4 ,:5 ! "t comes to ca/ (f ^! add$ /it*es 9 ord] to />t a new sleeve or fabric1 ! plate on :i* cams c#a & d#a are atta*$ is automatically l[]$ :5 ! c>riage is ov] to ! extreme "r4 ,!n ^u its return ! l[] ne$le butts ( ! wid5+ ne$les w come 9 contact ) ! left side ( cam d#a1 & mov+ up ov] ! top ( ?is w1 ( c\rse1 raise ! ne$les to a po9t :]e ! lat*es are above ! /it*es4 ,z ! c>riage moves f>!r along1 & ! butts come 9 contact ) ! left side ( cam c#a1 !y w slide d[n & ca/ ! /it*es (f ov] ! lat* & hook1 & at ! same "t be drawn d[n to a po9t s l[ t ! knitt+ or upp] cams _c op]ate on ! upp] butts4 ,at ! same "t t ! cams c#a & d#a are l[]$ to ca/ (f & draw out ( op]ation ! wid5+ ne$les1 a plung]1 :i* is atta*$ to ! c>riage1 drops d[n & engages a recess on ! "u side ( ! y>n c>ri] /op i1 ,fig4 #ed1 & ?r\gh ! lug j moves ! lev] f1 toge!r ) ! slide g & /op h1 back to its fir/ position :]e ! plung] is dis5gag$ by an incl9$ /op4 ,! /op h w hold ?is "p ( ! me*anism 9 ?is place by contact ) ! fir/ ne$le spr+ z expla9$ be=e4 ,x %\ld be und]/ood t :ile ?is explanation cov]s only "o ( ! f\r corn]s t mu/ h ! ne$les pu%$ up to wid5 ! fabric1 ! me?od applies to all ( !m4 ,also 9 ! mann] ( ca/+ (f ! wid5+ ne$les & return+ !m to _! l[e/ positions prep>atory to />t+ a new fabric1 we h conf9$ ourselves to ! "r end ( ! front plate only 9 ord] to pres5t ! matt] 9 ! simple/ possible mann]4 ,9 actual practice ! pair ( cams on ! left1 indicat$ by c#c & d#c1 toge!r ) c#d & d#d1 are put into op]ation fir/ by a m$ium /ud on ! wid5+ *a9 :ile ! c>riage is at ! extreme left end4 ,^u ! return movem5t ( ! c>riage ^! cams w\ld ca/ (f & return ! wid5+ ne$les to _! l[e/ po9t on ! left end ( bo? front & back plates4 ,imm$iately ?is is done ! cams are releas$ by means provid$1 & !y aga9 rise up into ! plate out ( ! work+ position1 ?us pass+ ov] ! "r side wid5+ ne$les )\t effect4 ,aft] putt+ on "o full r\nd ! cams d#a & c#a1 toge!r ) cams d#b & c#b1 are put into op]ation at ! extreme "r end ( ! ma*9e by a high /ud on ! wid5+ *a91 & ^! ca/ (f & draw d[n out ( op]ation ! front & back wid5+ ne$les on ! "r 9 ! same mann] z h]et(ore expla9$4 ,y>n ,c>ri] ,/op ,! read] w realize f :at has gone be=e t :5 !re are ne$les add$ to or tak5 f ! edge ( a fabric1 :ile 9 ! process ( knitt+ on a ma*9e1 x w\ld be necess>y to arrange to *ange ! /opp+ position ( ! y>n c>ri] 9 ord] to prev5t x f /opp+ too f> away f or too close 9 to ! fabric z ! wid5+ op]ation progresses4 ,?is is done by ! simple exp$i5t ( hav+ ! y>n c>ri] /op m\nt$ on its b> or way s x w slide freely1 & provid+ ! lugs j & k1 ,fig4 #ed1 on bo? sides ( ! lev] f1 s t x1 ) ! lev] f1 & slide g1 ) /op h1 w at all times move toge!r4 ,!re=e ! ne$le on ! edge ( ! fabric & ! y>n c>ri] /ops are always 9 ! same relative position4 ,if ! read] has /opp$ to pond] on ! work+ ( ?is ma*9e1 ) ! resultant fabric1 he may realize t !re %\ld be m pull or t5sion on ! fabric dur+ ! la/ "p ( x ?an :5 x is />t$4 ,z !re h be5 ne$les add$ x is wid]4 ,?is has be5 provid$ = s t by plac+ high /uds on ! ma9 *a9 at ! prop] po9t !y w increase ! t5sion on ! take-up roll]s :]e & z mu* z ne$$4 ,:5 ! wid5+ ne$les are ca/ (f1 & ! wid? ( ! fabric is r$uc$ to its n>r[e/ portion1 ?is extra t5sion may be automatically releas$ & ! pull r$uc$ to ! prop] /ra9 = ! n>r[] fabric4 ,^! ma*9es are made only 9 ! d\ble lock type1 b !re are means provid$ ?r\gh ! be=e describ$ lev]s & slides to *ange automatically to s+le lock by rais+ "o pair ( ! locks up out ( op]ation4 ,?is is q an advantage :]e "o wi%es to make "s /yle ( g>m5t ) a rack %[+ on bo? sides ( ! fabric su* z ! turn$-up cuff on ladies' sweat]s1 etc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,purl ,,/it*1 ,,or ,,l9ks ,,& ,,l9ks ,,ma*9e1 ,,= ,,h& ,,or ,,manual ,,p[] ,,! purl /it* or l9ks & l9ks ma*9e is a type :i* may be t]m$ unique 9 ! class ( ma*9]y built to make knitt$ fabrics4 ,x is entirely a ,european developm5t2 9 fact1 to my k !re _h be5 none ( ^! ma*9es built 9 ?is c\ntry until "s "t aft] ! w> />t$1 :5 x 0 impossible to import !m4 ,! *ief individual *>act]i/ic ( purl /it* ma*9es lies 9 ! fact t !y h two ne$le plates1 b only "o set ( ne$les1 & ! cams d n act directly on ! ne$les1 b act indirectly ?r\gh :at are call$ jacks4 ,fir/ we w try to get a ?or\gh k ( ! fabric ?is ma*9e 0 prim>ily design$ to make1 & ! /it* =mation requir$ to produce ?is fabric2 !n ! me*anism & movem5ts ( ! diff]5t p>ts ( ! ma*9e w be m readily und]/ood z we proce$ ) ! explanation4 ,"* ( ,fabric ,fig4 #eg %[s a photographic reproduction ( ! fabric ) ! top turn$ ov] to %[ bo? sides1 :i* x w be not$ are exactly ! same4 ,fig4 #eh is a l9e draw+ %[+ ! =mation ( ! /it*2 ! c\rse t ! y>n takes may easily be foll[$4 ,?is is call$ ! purl /it* & is v popul> ) milady :5 mak+ h& knit sweat]s1 *ildr5's suits1 etc4 ,if ! read] w ref] back to ,fig4 #ab1 he may be surpris$ to note h[ ne> ?is fabric is l ! back ( ! j]sey fabric1 :ile ! face ( ! j]sey fabric is s diff]5t4 ,i d n ?9k t ,i %\ld g v f> wrong if ,i put ?is 9 ! same class z ! j]sey fabric1 ! same z ! half & full c>digan are class$ z rib fabrics4 ,x is made ! same z ! j]sey on "o set ( ne$les1 b ) ?is diff]5ce3 ,9 mak+ ! j]sey fabric ! loop is always drawn ?r\gh ! previ\s loop 9 ! same direction4 ,t is1 we w suppose we 7 mak+ ?is j]sey fabric on an ord9>y flat ma*9e1 on ! front plate only4 ,9 ?is case ! loops w\ld always be drawn t[>d y ?r\gh ! previ\s loops4 ,n[ if we %\ld rev]se e c\rse ! direction 9 :i* we draw ^! loops1 or 9 o!r words1 if we %\ld draw !m t[>ds y :5 mov+ ! c>riage f "r to left1 & away f y :5 mov+ ! c>riage f left to "r1 & cont9u$ ?is rev]sal1 we w\ld make a purl /it* fabric4 ,b1 y say1 h[ are we go+ to d ?is8 ,! solution is ! purl /it* or l9ks & l9ks ma*9e1 ) its d\ble end$ ne$le1 or a ne$le ) a hook & lat* on bo? ends to p]mit ! :ole ne$le to be pu%$ ?r\gh ! loop e c\rse1 !reby ca/+ ! previ\s loops (f "o end on "o c\rse1 & (f ! opposite end on ! next c\rse4 ,?is sy/em ( knitt+ is su* t !re c be no ob/ruction to ! free movem5t ( ! /it* ov] any "p ( ! ne$le1 !re=e ?is fact precludes ! use ( a butt project+ up f any "p = ! cams to op]ate on1 ev5 if !re 7 no o!r reason1 :i* !re is z ! read] w und]/& aft] a /udy ( ! subject4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eg4 ,pla9 ,purl ,/it* ,fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #eh4 ,con/ruction ( ! ,pla9 ,purl ,/it* ,fabric4 ,?is ma*9e is con/ruct$ some:at along ! l9es ( ! ord9>y flat ma*9e1 :i* we h be5 /udy+4 ,its po9ts ( simil>ity are t ! table or /& is ! same1 x has two /raight1 flat ne$le plates1 x has a c>riage :i* is mov$ backw>d & =w>d ov] ! ne$le plates to op]ate ! ne$les1 & ! cams or locks are practically ! same z 9 ! ord9>y s+le lock flat ma*9e4 ,! ma9 po9ts ( diff]5ce are t on ! purl /it* ma*9e ! ne$le plates are set s t !y are flat1 or bo? are on a horizontal plane1 & ! ne$le slots ( bo? plates are directly 9 alignm5t ) "o ano!r s a ne$le may move freely f ! front to ! back plate1 or vice v]sa4 ,! ord9>y flat ma*9e has ! ne$le plates set at an angle ( ab\t #ij degrees to "o ano!r1 & #de degrees to ! horizontal1 & !y are set l5g?wise s ! ne$le slots ( "o plate are opposite ! space betwe5 ! ne$le slots ( ! opposite plate1 or 9 a position s ! ne$les ( "o plate w come up betwe5 ! ne$les ( ! opposite plate4 ,ano!r po9t ( diff]5ce is t ! purl /it* ma*9e has "o set ( ne$les = bo? plates1 ) a hook & lat* on bo? ends ( ea* ne$le & no butts to op]ate !m1 :ile ! ord9>y ma*9e has a set ( ne$les = ea* plate ) a hook & lat* on "o end only ) a butt on ! o!r end to op]ate x4 ,x naturally foll[s t inasmu* z ! ne$le plates are set flat1 in/ead ( at an angle to "o ano!r1 & ! ne$les are op]at$ indirectly ?r\gh :at are call$ jacks in/ead ( directly on butts on ! ne$les1 ! con/ruction ( ! purl /it* ma*9e mu/ be some:at diff]5t f ! ord9>y flat ma*9e4 ,con/ruction ( ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e ,fig4 #ei %[s a g5]al view ( a purl /it* ma*9e built by ,dubi$ ,co4 ,! lett] a indicates ! c>riage1 b ! h&le us$ to op]ate ! c>riage1 & c is an auxili>y h&le :i* "s knitt]s l & use1 :ile o!rs take x (f1 pref]r+ ! use ( h&le b only4 ,! lett] i indicates ! connection rod = ! auxili>y h&le2 d is ! rack+ h&le = rack+ ! back plate1 :i* plate is made to rack ov] usually ab\t #ab ne$les4 ,! lett] e is a sector ( a circle atta*$ to ! frame ( ! ma*9e & acts z a guide & a /op = ! rack+ h&le4 ,?is may be /udi$ to bett] advantage 9 ,fig4 #fj1 at e4 ,x has ,v-%ap$ not*es cut at ! prop] int]vals to correspond to ! ne$le spac+ ) a ,v-%ap$ plung] atta*$ to ! h&le s t :5 ?is plung] spr+s into "o ( ! not*es x br+s ! ne$le slots ( ! back plate into alignm5t ) ! ne$le slots ( ! front plate4 ,! second>y h&le d-#a is = releas+ ?is plung] to p]mit ! h&le to be mov$4 ,x w be not$ t !re are holes 9 ?is sector1 "o back ( ea* not* 9 ! edge1 & 9 two ( ^! holes !re are p9s4 ,^! p9s may be plac$ 9 any desir$ hole & act z /ops = ! rack+ h&le & 9 ?is way save ! op]ator ! tr\ble ( /opp+ to c\nt ! numb] ( not*es e "t he racks1 z on ?is class ( "w rack+ ov] any:]e f two to twelve ne$les at "o "t is common practice4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ei4 ,dubi$ ,purl ,/it* or ,l9ks & ,l9ks ,ma*9e4 ,h& ,p[]4 ,to g back to ,fig4 #ei1 lett] f is a c\nt] = c\nt+ ! r\nds1 g indicates two y>n c>ri] /ops1 "o on ea* side ( ! b> or gib1 :ile h & h are ! y>n take-up frames & spr+s4 ,lett] j indicates ! two gibs or ways on :i* ! c>riage slides1 & k is ! b> = c>ry+ ! y>n c>ri]s4 ,n[ to get an insight into ! pr9ciple ( ! me?od ( mak+ ?is purl /it* we w fir/ give our att5tion to ,fig4 #fc1 :i* is a l9e draw+ ( a ne$le & ! two jacks :i* are requir$ = ea* ne$le 9 _! prop] relative positions4 ,h[ ,ne$les ,are ,op]at$ ,z w be surmis$ aft] look+ at ! draw+1 ! jacks are mov$ =w>d & backw>d by cams op]at+ on ! butts a & a1 :i* project above ! surface ( ! ne$le plate 9 ! same mann] z ! cams op]ate on ! ne$le butts 9 ! ord9>y flat ma*9e4 ,! jacks op]ate ! ne$les by cat*+ ! hook ( ! ne$les 9 ! clut*es b & b ( ! jacks4 ,^! ne$les are simply pass$1 s to speak1 back & =? across ! ?roat1 betwe5 ! ne$le plates1 f "o jack to ! opposite "o on ea* c\rse1 & 9 t way !y rev]se ! direction ( ! draw ( ! loop on ea* c\rse4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fj4 ,look+ ,d[n at ,top ( ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e4 ,we w n[ give our att5tion to ,fig4 #fb1 :i* %[s ! "u or cam side ( ! c>riage4 ,x is und]/ood1 ( c\rse1 t l5g?wise ( ! c>riage1 or ! direction ( movem5t1 w\ld be :at is crosswise or "r & left 9 ! illu/ration4 ,x w be not$ t ! locks or /it* cam arrangem5t are1 on ! :ole1 practically ! same z 9 ! ord9>y flat ma*9e4 ,?is w\ld apply to ! cams & locks includ+ a1 h1 k & g1 also b1 i1 l & j4 ,! bridges c & d are = ano!r purpose4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fa4 ,top ( ,c>riage4 ,dubi$ ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e4 ,x w be not$ t :ile ! /it* cams h & i1 also g & j1 are exactly opposite "o ano!r1 ! cams a & b are n4 ,! bridges c & d h p]fectly flat smoo? surfaces except at po9ts e & f1 & "h !y h a concave portion ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* deep4 ,! space betwe5 bridge c & cam k1 also betwe5 bridge d & cam #a1 is fill$ by ! ne$le gib #a1 ,fig4 #fj1 & its mate on ! back1 :i* _c be se51 :5 ! c>riage is on ! ma*9e4 ,! read] %\ld c>efully /udy ! po9ts j gone ov]1 t is1 ! location ( ! cams a & b 9 relation to ea* o!r1 & ! bridges c & d ) _! concave spots e & f1 9 ord] to fully grasp _! relation to ! jacks & ne$les 9 ! op]ation ( ! ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fb4 ,"u ,side ( ,c>riage ,) ,cam ,sy/em4 ,dubi$ ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e4 ,we w n[ give our att5tion to ,fig4 #fj1 :]e x w be not$ t ! front gib #a is abnormally wide4 ,! back gib is ! same1 & inasmu* z x _c be se5 we w assume t x is also m>k$ #a & h]eaft] call x back gib #a4 ,j bel[ ! c5t]1 lat]ally1 ( ! front ne$le plate we see a r[ ( jack butts :i* are 9 work+ position4 ,9 ! back plate we see jack butts 9 e slot b !y alt]nate ) ?ree up 9 work+ position1 & ?ree d[n out ( work+ position4 ,x %\ld be und]/ood cle>ly t any jacks t are mov$ to ! out] edge ( ei!r plate w n op]ate z !y are out ( range ( ! cam sy/em1 ! same z 9 ! ord9>y flat ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fc4 ,jacks & ,ne$les ,us$ 9 ! ,dubi$ ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e4 ,let u n[ br+ toge!r ! ne$les & jacks 9 ,fig4 #fc1 & ! ne$le plates 9 ,fig4 #fj4 ,! butts ( ! jacks a 7,fig4 #fc7 are :at we see project+ above ! ne$le plates 9 ,fig4 #fj4 ,! hump c 7,fig4 #fc7 lies "u ! gib #a 7,fig4 #fj74 ,! reason = hav+ ?is gib extra wide is to cov] ?is hump dur+ mo/ ( ! knitt+ op]ation 9 ord] to keep ! ne$le captive4 ,! dep? ( ! ne$le slot is j suffici5t to all[ ?is "p ( ! jack to slide "u ! gib freely )\t any up & d[n play1 !re=e x foll[s t :5 ! hook ( a ne$le is caught 9 ! clut* b1 z 9 jack numb] #a 9 ,fig4 #fc1 t ne$le mu/ move backw>d & =w>d ) ! jack4 ,:5 ! jacks are mov$ =w>d to ! po9t :]e ! butts w\ld be ne> or aga9/ ! gib #a 7,fig4 #fj7 ! hump c 7,fig4 #fc7 w\ld be inside & cle> ( ! gib #a1 t[>d ! c5t] ( ! ma*9e1 !re=e ! %ank ( ! jack be+ n>r[] ?an at ! hump1 a slight draw on ! ne$le w\ld free x f ! jack z ! clut* d1 :i* holds ! ne$le1 is bevel$ (f = ?is purpose4 ,?is be+ ! case x foll[s t :5 ! jacks are 9 ?is position ! hooks ( ! ne$les may be easily pu%$ "u & into ! clut* b ( ! jacks4 ,?is is h[ ! ma*9e is fill$ ) ne$les to beg9 )1 or imp]fect ones replac$ ) new4 ,x w n[ be necess>y to /udy ,fig4 #fb 9 connection ) ,figs4 #fj & #fc4 ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #fb1 ! space betwe5 ! cam k & bridge c1 also cam #a & bridge d1 z not$ be=e1 is occupi$ by ! two gibs #a 7,fig4 #fj7 :5 ! c>riage is on ! ma*9e4 ,! bridges c & d 7,fig4 #fb7 come d[n to ! ne$le plates & ! surface we see is on ! same plane z ! "u side ( ! gibs #a1 ,fig4 #fj4 ,we h j _h ! /atem5t t :5 ! butts ( ! jacks a 7,fig4 #fc7 7 mov$ up to ! outside & close to ! gibs #a 7,fig4 #fj71 ! hump c ( ! jacks w\ld be j inside & cle> ( ! gibs #a1 !re=e c\ld be rais$ suffici5tly to slip ! hook ( a ne$le 9 or out ( ! clut* b ( ! jack4 ,?is is true only at a "t :5 ! c>riage is n ov] & op]at+ ! jacks4 ,:5 ^! are mov$ up to ?is po9t by ! cams ! hump c ( ! jacks w\ld come "u ! bridges c & d 7,fig4 #fb71 !re=e c\ld n raise up to release ! ne$les except at ! n>r[ concaves m>k$ e & f 9 ! bridges4 ,^! concaves1 x %\ld be not$ aga91 are n opposite "o ano!r4 ,! di/ance betwe5 ! top or n>r[ "p ( cam a & cam b is su* t :5 ! butts ( ! jacks h mov$ up to ?is po9t ! clut* b ( bo? ( ! oppos$ jacks cov] a hook ( ! ne$le4 ,9 look+ at ,fig4 #fb1 ! top half ( ! c>riage w\ld be ! "p cov]+ ! front ne$le plate & op]at+ ^u ! front jacks1 & ! bottom half w\ld d likewise on ! back plate4 ,:5 ! c>riage is at ! left end ( ! ma*9e1 :5 mak+ ! purl /it* ! ne$les %\ld be 9 ! front plate1 & :5 ! c>riage is at ! "r end ( ! ma*9e ! ne$les w\ld be 9 ! back plate4 ,?is relative position is always ! same :5 mak+ ! purl /it*4 ,i h assum$ t ! read] und]/&s t a jack & a ne$le toge!r w\ld1 :5 9 a normal position z %[n by ! butts 9 ! front ne$le plate 9 ,fig4 #fj1 rea* j to ! ?roat betwe5 ! ne$le plates4 ,hav+ ! diff]5t p>ts & _! relative positions 9 our m9d we w n[ proce$ ) ! modus op]&i4 ,we w assume t ! c>riage is at ! left end ( ! ma*9e1 !re=e ! ne$les w\ld be 9 ! front ne$le plate & "u ! control ( ! front jacks1 z ! hooks w\ld be 9 ! clut* b 7,fig4 #fc7 ( ^! jacks1 :ile ! hump c be+ "u ! gib ( ! ne$le plate w n all[ ! ne$les to escape4 ,to obviate "s ( ! difficulties ! read] may h 9 und]/&+ ?is explanation we w assume t ! c>riage z %[n 9 ,fig4 #fb is /ation>y1 & ! plates ) _! jacks & ne$les are ! p>ts t are mov$4 ,! outl9e ( ! camway may be easily trac$ z x is practically ! same z ! ord9>y flat ma*9e ) :i* ! read] %\ld be famili> & ! action on ! ne$les1 ?r\gh ! jacks1 is ! same until !y rea* ! fir/ inside corn] ( ! cam b4 ,if ! read] w take a /raight edge & lay x on ! illu/ration1 he w f9d t ?is corn] ( cam b is j 9 l9e ) ! concave e 9 ! bridge c1 & also ) ! c5t] ( ! flat portion ( ! cam a4 ,?is be+ ! case1 x foll[s t ! c5t] ( ! flat portion ( ! cam b mu/ be 9 l9e ) ! left inside corn] ( cam a & ! concave f 9 ! bridge d4 ,x %\ld be und]/ood t z ! ne$les are mov+ across ! ?roat betwe5 ! ne$le plates1 ! /it* or loop op5s ! lat*es1 & gu>ds are provid$ to keep !m op5 until ! ne$les are ready to draw ! new loop ?r\gh ! previ\s "o4 ,n[ to return to :]e we left ! ne$les & jacks at ! "r inside corn] ( cam b4 ,! jacks ( ! back plate h rea*$ _! inn]mo/ position1 & ! heads or humps c 7,fig4 #fc7 lie "u ! bridge c 7,fig4 #fb74 ,at ! po9t :]e ! front jacks opposite are rea*+ _! inn]mo/ position1 ! heads or humps c ( ! back jacks come "u ! concave e1 :i* all[s ! hook ( ! ne$les1 j com+ =w>d f ! opposite plate1 to raise up ! head & ent] ! clut* b ( ! jack4 ,z !y move f>!r to ! left1 ! heads ( ^! back jacks are "u ! plane surface ( ! bridge c1 :i* secures ! ne$les to ^! jacks4 ,z ! jacks />t to move back t[>d _! out]mo/ position1 ! heads ( ! jacks ( ! front plate are "u ! concave f ( bridge d4 ,?is all[s ! ne$le hooks ( ?is end to draw out & release !mselves f ! jacks ( ?is side1 & be drawn ?r\gh ! loop to ! back plate1 & by ?is means to ca/ ! previ\s loop (f f ! back plate t[>d ! front "o4 ,^u ! return f left to "r1 ! ne$les are ex*ang$ f ! back plate to ! front "o 9 ! same mann]1 only ( c\rse1 ! action is j opposite to t j expla9$4 ,!re=e1 ! ne$les w\ld pass ?r\gh ! loop f ! back to ! front plate1 & ca/ (f ! previ\s loop f ! front plate t[>d ! back "o4 ,?is w\ld make ! purl /it*4 ,:ile ! ma*9e 0 design$ prim>ily to make ?is purl /it*1 !re c be made on x a l>g] v>iety ( /it*es ?an on any o!r ma*9e1 b 9 g5]al practice ! /it*es made are limit$ z a rule to ! purl1 j]sey & pla9 rib1 #a & #a1 #b & #b1 etc4 ,! t]m #a & #a rib means "o ne$le 9 ea* plate alt]nately4 ,! t]m #b & #b rib means two ne$les toge!r alt]nat+ 9 ea* plate )\t a ne$le work+ betwe5 ! two f ! opposite plate4 ,x is also possible to make ! half or full c>digan /it*4 ,! j]sey /it* may be made by "o ( two me?ods4 ,fir/1 :5 ! ne$les are all 9 "o plate move ! jacks 9 ! o!r plate to _! out]mo/ position1 :]e ! cams ( t side _c op]ate on !m & ! ne$les w /ay on "o side z !re are no jacks op]at+ on ! o!r side to take !m across4 ,second1 by mov+ ! h&le b1 ,fig4 #fa1 to ! left4 ,by do+ ?is we w\ld draw ! cams a & b 7,fig4 #fb7 up into ! cam plate out ( work+ position1 !re=e ! jacks w\ld n move to _! inn]mo/ position s ! ne$les w\ld n move f> en\gh =w>d to meet ! opposite jacks & c\ld n be tak5 ov] into ! opposite plate4 ,?is sy/em ( be+ able to op]ate any numb] ( select$ ne$les1 or all ( !m1 on ei!r ! purl or j]sey /it*1 ei!r alone or 9 comb9ation ) ! rack1 is ! base or pr9ciple us$ to make practically all ! design$ or patt]n "w produc$ on ! ord9>y purl /it* ma*9e4 ,fig4 #fa %[s ! top side ( ! c>riage4 ,! lett] a indicates ! h&le = op]at+ ! c>riage2 b is ! lev] = *ang+ ! /it* f purl to j]sey1 or vice v]sa1 by rais+ out or putt+ into op]ation ! cams a & b1 ,fig4 #fb4 ,! lett] c %[s ! lev] = *ang+ y>n c>ri]s :ile d#a & d#b are ! slides = *ang+ ! l5g? ( /it*4 ,?is *ange is made ! same z has be5 expla9$ = ! ord9>y flat ma*9e2 t is1 by %ift+ ! /ops1 ( :i* !re are ?ree = ea* /it* cam or six on ea* ( ! slides d#a & d#b4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,x ,,designs ,,on ,,pla9 ,,purl ,,/it* ,,ma*9es--,,automatic ,,jacqu>d ,,type--,,details ,,( ,,jacqu>d-,,design+ ,,on ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9e ,,figures #fd1 #fe & #ff %[ "s ( ! design effects :i* may be made on ! l9ks & l9ks sy/em ( knitt+4 ,fig4 #fd is a basket weave design4 ,to make ?is we w assume t ! ma*9e is set up1 t is1 has "w on x1 ) ! c>riage at ! left end ( ! ma*9e4 ,!n all ! ne$les w\ld be 9 ! front plate4 ,! back plate %\ld be rack$ to its la/ position to ! "r4 ,! la/ work+ jack 9 ! back plate1 left end1 %\ld be opposite ! la/ ne$le 9 ! front plate1 b 9 ! "r end ( ! back plate !re %\ld be #h jacks m ?an ne$les 9 ! front plate4 ,n[ />t+ at ! "r1 c\nt eight jacks1 :i* leave 9 op]at+ position2 !n draw five back out ( op]at+ position2 leave elev5 9 op]ation1 & drawn five out4 ,alt]nate 9 ?is way ) elev5 9 "w & five out = ! l5g? ( ! "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fd4 ,basket ,weave ,design ,made on ,purl ,/it* ,h& ,ma*9e4 ,aft] do+ ?is ! position ( ! jacks w\ld be simil> to ^? %[n 9 ! back plate 9 ,fig4 #fj1 except t t illu/ration %[$ ?ree 9 & ?ree out1 :ile we w\ld h elev5 9 "w & five out 9 ! pres5t in/ance4 ,! ?ree rules m>k$ m1 %[n 9 ,fig4 #fj1 are us$ = ?is purpose4 ,!y save ! "t ( c\nt+ ! jacks & draw+ !m back "o or two at a "t4 ,by ! use ( "o ( ^! rules1 prop]ly cut1 all ( ! jacks to be put out ( op]ation may be mov$ back 9 "o sweep4 ,to g back to our design1 set ! p9 %[n 9 ! arc e1 ,fig4 #fj1 to /op ! rack+ h&le at eight ne$les1 put on six c\rses or ?ree r\nds1 /opp+ ) ! c>riage on ! left1 :i* w leave all ! ne$les 9 ! front plate1 & rack ! back plate to eight ne$les to ! left4 ,put on ?ree m r\nds & rack ! eight ne$les to ! "r1 & cont9ue do+ ?is4 ,x %\ld be und]/ood t ! back plate %\ld nev] be rack$ ov] m ?an two ne$les except :5 all ! ne$les are 9 ! front plate4 ,i h previ\sly expla9$ t :5 ! cams are set = purl /it*1 if ! jacks are 9 ! op]at+ position 9 bo? plates we w\ld make ! purl /it*1 b 9 any place :]e ! jacks 7 drawn back out ( op]at+ position 9 "o plate1 9 t place ! ne$les w\ld at all times /ay 9 ! opposite plate & knit ! pla9 j]sey /it*4 ,n[ 9 ?is basket design we h 9 ! back plate1 disreg>d+ ! fir/ eight jacks1 five jacks t are n op]at+ alt]nat+ ) elev5 t are4 ,!re=e1 ! fir/ ?ree r\nds w\ld make purl /it* on elev5 ne$les alt]nat+ ) five mak+ pla9 j]sey /it*4 ,:5 we rack ! plate ov] eight ne$les we f9d t ! five slots ) ! non-work+ jacks ( ! back plate are j opposite ! middle five ne$les ( ! elev5 t h be5 mak+ purl /it*1 & are1 ( c\rse1 at ! "t ( rack+ 9 ! front plate4 ,we also f9d t ! five ne$les t h be5 mak+ ! j]sey /it* 9 consequ5ce ( hav+ be5 opposite ! five non-work+ jacks 9 ! back plate1 are n[ opposite ! middle five ( ! elev5 work+ jacks ( ! back plate4 ,!re=e x is pla9 t ^! five ne$les w\ld make purl /it* = ! next ?ree r\nds1 :ile ! middle five ne$les ( ! elev5 t 7 mak+ purl /it* w\ld make j]sey 9 ! next ?ree r\nds4 ,!re are always ?ree ne$les on ea* side ( ! five t are rack$ ov] t purl /it* all ! "t4 ,two & ,two ,rib ,fig4 #fe %[s two designs ! l[] "o be+ v simple4 ,) ! c>riage on ! left end ( ! ma*9e arrange ! jacks 9 ! back plate two & two1 or two 9 work+ position & two out4 ,!n move ! c>riage across to ! "r end ( ! ma*9e & we w f9d t ! ne$les h arrang$ !mselves to con=m to ! arrangem5t ( ! back jacks1 alt]nat+ two & two 9 bo? ne$le plates4 ,n[ move ! h&le b1 ,fig4 #fa1 to ! left & ?is w raise cams a & b1 ,fig4 #fb1 up into ! cam plate out ( op]ation1 ?us prev5t+ ! jacks f mov+ to _! inn]mo/ position4 ,!re=e1 !y _c ex*ange ne$les & s w\ld make a two & two rib fabric1 knitt+ ?is cont9u\sly )\t any fur!r *ange4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fe4 ,diagonal ,diamond ,design & ,two & ,two ,rib ,made on ,h& ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e4 ,! upp] half ( ,fig4 #fe is made by arrang+ ! jacks 9 ! back ne$le plate s t five w be 9 work+ position1 alt]nat+ ) five out4 ,) ?is arrangem5t ( ! jacks1 & )\t any fur!r manipulation1 ! ma*9e w\ld knit a /raight v]tical /ripe ( five ne$les purl /it* & five ne$les pla9 j]sey /it*4 ,if1 h[ev]1 we rack ! back ne$le ov] "o ne$le e r\nd :5 ! c>riage is at ! left end ( ! ma*9e1 & all ! ne$les are 9 ! front plate1 = five r\nds we w\ld h ^! /ripes runn+ diagonally in/ead ( v]tically1 & ! di/ance !y w\ld run to ! "r or left1 dep5d+ on :i* way we rack$1 w\ld dep5d on h[ _m times we rack$ 9 "o direction4 ,9 ?is in/ance x w\ld be = sev5 r\nds1 or r we w\ld rack ov] 9 ! "o direction e r\nd = six r\nds1 & on ! sev5? we w\ld rack ! plate back ! five ne$les at once4 ,!n />t ov] rack+ ! o!r way "o ne$le ea* r\nd z be=e to make ! second r[ ( diagonal blocks4 ,?is rack+ back ( five ne$les at "o "t w\ld ( c\rse br+ ! non-work+ jacks to ! position :]e ! work+ jacks 71 & ! work+ jacks to ! position :]e ! non-work+ jacks 74 ,!re=e1 ! ne$les t 7 knitt+ ! purl /it* w\ld beg9 mak+ pla9 j]sey1 :ile ! ne$les t 7 mak+ pla9 j]sey w\ld n[ make purl /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ff4 ,two & ,two ,rib ,rack$1 ,made on ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e4 ,fig4 #ff is simply a two & two rib /it* rack$ ov] two ne$les e f\r r\nds4 ,?is rack+ ov] two ne$les ) ne$les 9 bo? plates may be done successfully if ! /it* is drawn fairly long4 ,automatic ,jacqu>d ,p[] ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e ,! automatic l9ks & l9ks or purl /it* ma*9e is :at ! "n w\ld imply2 t is1 a ma*9e :i* makes ! *anges 9 ! /it* & y>n c>ri]s automatically4 ,! ^w jacqu>d add$ to ?is w\ld convey to ! m9d ( a p]son famili> ) textile processes ! fact t ! ma*9e automatically makes designs or patt]ns 9 ! process ( knitt+4 ,fig4 #fg %[s a ,dubi$ ma*9e ( ?is type :i* 9 g5]al appe>ance resembles _! automatic p[] flat ma*9e4 ,x has ! same drum device = c\nt+ ! r\nds1 indicat$ at d1 ) a *a9 drive some:at simil> to ! flat ma*9e1 ?\gh ) ?is diff]5ce3 ,! c>riage is connect$ directly to ! *a9 ?r\gh a cross head :i* slides on two rods1 in/ead ( ?r\gh a connection rod4 ,we h ! ma9 *a91 at e1 on ?is ma*9e z on ! flat ma*9e1 b x is plac$ on ! "r end in/ead ( ! left4 ,! rack+ *a9s :i* are on ! flat ma*9e are n ne$$ on ?is ma*9e1 !re=e are disp5s$ )4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fg4 ,dubi$ ,p[] ,automatic ,jacqu>d ,purl ,/it* or ,l9ks & ,l9ks ,ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fh4 ,cross ,section ( ,pair ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e ,plates ,) ,c>d ,cyl9d] & ,_! ,relative ,positions4 ,on ! ord9>y purl /it* ma*9e a l>ge "p ( ! design+ is done by a comb9ation ( select$ jacks 9 conjunction ) ! rack2 !re=e x is desirable to h su* a ma*9e built to rack ov] q a numb] ( ne$les4 ,) ?is ma*9e ! designs are made on ! jacqu>d sy/em1 !re=e ?is extreme rack+ is n requir$ & ! ma*9e is built to rack b two ne$les4 ,at a & b 9 ,fig4 #fg w be not$ two cyl9d]s ) grooves cut on a long spiral4 ,!y are m\nt$ on a small %aft :i* acts z a be>+ ^u :i* !y turn4 ,^! op]ate ! jacqu>d sy/em & %\ld be kept well 9 m9d z !y w be ref]r$ to lat]4 ,! lett] c indicates ! c>riage1 :i* is %[n1 top & bottom1 9 detail 9 ,figs4 #fi & #gj4 ,fig4 #fi1 x w be not$1 is ! same 9 ! g5]al lay\t ( ! cam sy/em z %[n = ! h& ma*9es 9 ,fig4 #fb1 9 ! la/ article4 ,! upp] locks w\ld op]ate on ! front plate & ! l[] ones on ! back "o4 ,!re are two ma9 po9ts ( diff]5ce3 ,! cam x1 :i* mu/ be us$ 9 connection ) ! c>ds ( ! jacqu>d sy/em & :i* w be tak5 up 9 detail 9 due c\rse1 & ! lev]s s & t :i* raise ! /it* cams t are 9 ! lead & l[] ! ones t foll[ & =m ! /it* at ! end ( ea* c\rse4 ,?is is done to take all undue /ra9 (f ! /it*4 ,x w be not$ 9 ! illu/ration t ! left /it* cams are rais$ & ! "r ones l[]$ prep>atory to putt+ on a c\rse by mov+ ! c>riage f "r to left4 ,at ! left end ( ! ma*9e ! position ( ^! cams is rev]s$ = ! return c\rse4 ,?is is done by a p9 set at bo? ends ( ! two plates :i* act on ! lev]s s & t4 ,!n we h ! ext5sions ( ! slides4 ,numb]s #a & #c are = *ang+ ! l5g? ( ! /it*4 ,slides #b & #e are = rais+ & l[]+ cams a & b to *ange f purl to pla9 j]sey /it*1 or vice v]sa4 ,! mann] ( do+ ?is & ! action ( ^! cams on ! ne$les & jacks h be5 expla9$4 ,slide #d puts ! plung] y into & out ( op]ation4 ,?is plung] op]ates ! jacqu>d sy/em by ent]+ ! spiral grooves ( & turn+ ! cyl9d]s a & b1 ,fig4 #fg4 ,! f\r slides m>k$ #f1 ,figs4 #fi & #gj1 are = *ang+ ! y>n c>ri]s1 ( :i* !re are f\r4 ,! f\r small p>ts indicat$ by ! lett] m1 ,fig4 #fi1 are lat* op5]s1 :i* are ess5tial z ! ma*9e _c be op]at$ :5 ! lat*es are clos$4 ,we w\ld be unable to move ! c>riage across ! ma*9e :5 !re 0 no fabric on ! ne$les to op5 ! lat*es1 )\t ^! lat* op5]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #fi4 ,"u ,side ( ,c>riage ( ,automatic ,jacqu>d ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e4 ,! small slide indicat$ at #g is = *ang+ ! position ( ! cam x1 sw++ on a pivot screw at z1 :i* may be mov$ to any "o ( ?ree positions4 ,^! are ! position %[n1 or horizontal ) ! l[] edge (1 & on a l9e ) ! l[] edge ( cams w & r1 or x may be swung d[n to a po9t :]e ! end w be at ! l[] edge ( ! cam plate at v4 ,! ?ree positions ( ?is cam %\ld be firmly fix$ 9 m9d1 z !y h an important "p to play 9 ! jacqu>d "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gj4 ,top ,side ( ,c>riage ( ,automatic ,jacqu>d ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e4 ,we w n[ give our att5tion to ,fig4 #fh1 :i* repres5ts a cross section ( ! ne$le plates1 %[+ a pair ( jacks & a ne$le 9 _! respective slots or tricks4 ,lett] a indicates ! back plate & b ! front "o4 ,! back jack c is %[n 9 its out]mo/ position1 !re=e w\ld be out ( op]ation1 :ile ! dott$ l9es at h %[ its inn]mo/ position ready to receive ! ne$le f ! opposite jack4 ,lett]s e & f indicate ! gibs :i* cov] & hold d[n ! heads ( ! jacks at all times except :5 !y are at _! inn]mo/ position2 :5 !y are 9 ?is position !y are "u & held d[n by ! bridges or w9kles c & d1 ,fig4 #fi1 & are p]mitt$ to rise only at ! concaves e & f :]e ! ex*ange ( ne$les takes place4 ,lett] g1 ,fig4 #fh1 indicates ! ne$le1 & i is a v]tical projection1 call$ tee?1 :i* are betwe5 ! ne$les & act z s9k]s = ! ne$les to draw ! loops ov]4 ,! ,jacqu>d ,me*anism ,! jacqu>d sy/em ( design+ is simply a me?od ( provid+ means to select & put into op]ation any desir$ ne$le or ne$les at any pr$et]m9$ place 9 ! fabric4 ,! me*anism to d ?is is %[n 9 ,fig4 #fh4 ,! lett] l indicates a f\r corn]$ /> %ap$ b> call$ ! c>d cyl9d]1 :i* is ! l5g? ( ! ne$le plate4 ,! lett] j indicates :at are call$ c>ds & are also ! same l5g? z ! ne$le plate & z wide z "o side ( ! c>d cyl9d]4 ,^! are made f ei!r ?9 %eets ( /eel or f /iff /rong pap] bo>d1 & are atta*$ to "o ano!r by r+s or o!r means s z to =m a cont9u\s b& ar\nd ! c>d cyl9d]4 ,! illu/ration %[s t5 ( ^! c>ds1 b ! numb] us$ dep5ds on ! design be+ made1 = !re is "o c>d = ea* r\nd 9 ! design4 ,to return to ! c>d cyl9d] l1 ?is is m\nt$ on a %aft :i* is support$ by two uprights or arms1 "o at ea* end1 %[n by ! brok5 l9es at n1 :i* 9 turn are atta*$ securely to ! rock] %aft m4 ,?is arrangem5t p]mits ! c>d cyl9d] to be swung =w>d to ! ne$le plate & back to ! position %[n at any pr$et]m9$ "t or place4 ,z not$ be=e1 ! back jack c is out ( work+ position1 !re=e z long z x /ays 9 ?is position ! ne$le w\ld op]ate 9 ! front plate only & make a pla9 j]sey fabric4 ,if1 :5 ! c>riage is at ! left end ( ! ma*9e1 we %\ld sw+ ! c>d cyl9d] ) ! blank c>d j1 ,no4 #a 7:i* is a c>d )\t any op5+s 9 x7 up to ! ne$le plate1 x w\ld pu% ^! back jacks up into work+ position & on ! next c\rse ! ne$les w\ld cross ov] into ! back plate & make ! purl /it*4 ,n[ be> 9 m9d t ! basic pr9ciple ( design+ ( ?is "* is 9 mak+ ! design ( "o /it* & ! gr\nd ( ! o!r4 ,x is q obvi\s t if we provide means to sweep all ! back jacks to _! out]mo/ positions & out ( op]ation e "t ! c>riage is mov$ f ! "r to ! left end ( ! ma*9e aft] hav+ pass$ ! ne$les across to ! front plate1 !n sw+ a c>d ) holes cut ?r\gh at c]ta9 int]vals up to ! ne$le plate1 ^? jacks t come into contact ) t "p ( ! c>d t is intact w\ld be pu%$ into work+ position1 :ile ^? t 7 9 front ( ! op5+s or holes w\ld pass ?r\gh & n be affect$4 ,!re=e1 on ! next r\nd ! ne$les opposite ^! w\ld make ! j]sey /it*1 :ile all ! o!rs w\ld make purl /it*4 ,on ! la/ c\rse ( ! r\nd f "r to left ! jacks w\ld be swept back out ( op]ation1 ! c>d cyl9d] l w\ld be turn$ a qu>t] turn1 br++ ano!r c>d opposite ! ne$le plate1 & ano!r & p]haps diff]5t lot ( jacks select$ = ! next r\nd4 ,! c>d cyl9d] is turn$ ! qu>t] turn :5 ! c>riage is approa*+ ! "r end ( ! ma*9e by ! plung] y1 ,fig4 #gj1 engag+ ! spiral 9 ! cyl9d] b1 ,fig4 #fg1 & ! c>ds are mov$ up to ! ne$le plate :5 ! c>riage approa*es ! left end ( ! ma*9e by ?is same plung] engag+ ! spiral 9 cyl9d] a4 ,at k 9 ,fig4 #fh1 is %[n ! face ( a portion ( a c>d z x might be cut4 ,beg9n+ at ! op5+ at ! left1 ! heels ( ?ree jacks w\ld pass ?r\gh ?is4 ,! space next to ! "r1 be+ intact1 w\ld pu% six jacks into op]ation2 & s on ?r\gh\t ! l5g? ( ! fragm5t ( ! c>d %[n z indicat$ by ! figures4 ,?is draw+ 0 made to repres5t a c>d to be us$ on a ne$le plate cut eight ne$les to "o in*1 & :ile ! scale is cut d[n some:at 9 ! reproduction ! proportions w\ld rema9 ! same4 ,n[ z to ! means provid$ to make ! *anges %[n z necess>y we w ref] aga9 to ,fig4 #fi1 & to ! cam m>k$ x4 ,z /at$ be=e1 ?is cam may be swung on ! pivot screw z1 automatically1 to any "o ( ?ree positions4 ,:5 x is 9 alignm5t ) cams w & r x has no effect1 z :5 ! jacks are 9 _! normal knitt+ position ! butts w pass j above & :5 !y are out ( work+ position !y w pass j "u ^! ?ree cams4 ,n[ x w be not$ t cam x is plac$ at ! extreme "r end ( ?is lock or set ( cams1 9 consequ5ce ( :i* x mu/ always be put into op]ation :5 ! c>riage is at ! "r end ( ! ma*9e1 & x p]=ms its functions z ! c>riage is mov$ to ! left & aft] ! /it* =mation ( ?is c\rse is complet$4 ,! cam is mov$ into ! desir$ position by ! slide #g1 :i* comes 9 contact ) movable /ops at ei!r end ( ! ma*9e4 ,:5 ! jacqu>d sy/em is 9 op]ation ?is cam w\ld be mov$ to ! position %[n 9 ! illu/ration :ile ! c>riage 0 on ! "r1 consequ5tly z ! c>riage is mov$ to ! left end ( ! ma*9e ! ne$les 9 ! back plate w\ld be pass$ to ! front plate & imm$iately aft] ?is ! back jacks w\ld be swept out ( ! op]at+ position by ?is cam4 ,:5 ! c>riage rea*$ ! left end ( ! ma*9e ?is cam w\ld be mov$ d[n 9 alignm5t ) cams w & r1 s w\ld be 9 ! position t w\ld n make any *ange 9 ! position ( ! jacks4 ,9 mak+ "s k9ds ( "w x is desirable to put all ! back jacks 9 & out ( op]ation at c]ta9 times4 ,we h j expla9$ ab\t putt+ !m out ( op]ation4 ,to put all ( !m 9 ! work+ position )\t us+ ! jacqu>d ! be=e m5tion$ movable /op comes 9 contact ) ano!r slide j "u slide #g1 :5 ! c>riage is mov$ to ! "r end ( ! ma*9e1 & ?is slide w sw+ ! po9t ( cam x to its l[e/ position at v1 & 9 ?is position1 z ! c>riage is mov$ to ! left1 x w sweep all ! back jacks into work+ position ready = ! next c\rse4 ,z ! c>riage f9i%es its travel to ! left1 ! /op at t end w\ld ( c\rse move ?is cam to its neutral po9t4 ,i assume t ! read] und]/&s t ! /ops & lev]s t cause all ^! automatic *anges are controll$ by /uds atta*$ 9 _! prop] places on ! *a9 e1 ,fig4 #fg1 :i* 9 turn is controll$ by ! drum d4 ,we w n[ take up 9 m detail ! action ( ! c>ds & ! me*anism provid$ to actuate !m4 ,z /at$ be=e1 :5 mak+ a design by ?is sy/em ! c>d cyl9d]1 toge!r ) ! c>ds1 is mov$ up to ! edge ( ! ne$le plate ea* r\nd4 ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #fg1 at a-#a !re is an ecc5tric atta*$ to ! movable cyl9d] a1 & !re is a connection rod f ?is ecc5tric to ! small %aft o1 ,fig4 #fh4 ,!re=e1 :5 ! plung] y1 ,fig4 #gj1 ent]s ! spiral groove & moves ! l5g? ( ! cyl9d] a1 ,fig4 #fg1 ! cyl9d] turns ab\t half way r\nd1 :i* ( c\rse turns ! ecc5tric a-#a1 & ?is moves ! c>d j1 ,no4 #a1 ,fig4 #fh1 up to ! ne$le plate4 ,z not$ be=e1 any "p ( ?is c>d t has holes 9 x c\ld n pu% ^?1 jacks opposite into work+ position1 :ile t "p ( ! c>d :i* rema9$ intact w\ld put ! jacks oppos$ to x 9 "w4 ,^u ! return ( ! c>riage x turns ! cyl9d] a1 ,fig4 #fg1 back to its fir/ position1 :i* movem5t w\ld ( c\rse move ! c>ds away f ! ne$le plate aga94 ,! cyl9d] b is actuat$ 9 ! same mann] z cyl9d] a z ! c>riage rea*es ! "r end ( ! ma*9e1 b its function is to turn ! c>d cyl9d] a qu>t] turn ea* "t 9 ord] to br+ a new c>d into position = ! next r\nd & make t "p ( ! design4 ,h[ ,design+ ,is ,done ,hav+ expla9$ ! !ory ( mak+ designs on ! jacqu>d sy/em we w n[ %[ 9 detail h[ x is done 9 actual practice4 ,) ! jacqu>d sy/em !re is no limit or end to ! designs t may be made1 z !re is ) ! o!r sy/ems us$ on knitt+ ma*9es4 ,fig4 #ga is a photographic reproduction ( a design made on ?is ma*9e4 ,! read] :o has /udi$ well & ?or\ghly dige/$ :at has gone be=e w realize t ?is design c\ld n be made 9 any o!r way1 on a ma*9e ( ?is type1 )\t an exp5diture ( "t & labor :i* w\ld be f> beyond ! b\nds ( practicability4 ,! design] w fir/ sket* out 8 design on a piece ( pla9 pap]1 !n take a piece ( cross section pap] & lay x d[n z illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #gb4 ,?is is ! lay\t ( ! design %[n 9 ,fig4 #ga4 ,ea* ( ! crosswise r[s ( squ>es repres5ts "o r\nd or two c\rses1 & ea* ( ! v]tical r[s repres5ts a wale or ne$le4 ,9 o!r words ea* "o ( ! squ>es 9 a crosswise r[ repres5ts a ne$le or ! loops 9 "o r\nd1 & ea* "o ( ! succe$+ squ>es repres5ts t same ne$le 9 ! succe$+ r\nds4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ga4 ,design ,made on ,automatic ,jacqu>d ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gb4 ,lay\t ( ,design ,%[n 9 ,fig4 #ga4 ,n[ to cut ! c>ds we w\ld />t ) ,no4 #a & cut !m consecutively4 ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #gb1 ! blank squ>es1 or ! spaces 9 ! c>ds ^! repres5t1 %\ld be cut out1 & ! squ>es m>k$ ) an x w\ld rema9 intact4 ,/>t+ at ! "r side1 "o ne$le space is n cut out2 !n suffici5t space to cov] ?ree ne$les or jacks is cut out2 !n ! space ( elev5 jacks is left intact1 !n ?ree cut out4 ,?is is ! full wid? ( ! fir/ r\nd ( ! design1 !re=e ?is cutt+ w\ld be repeat$ until x cov]s ! desir$ wid? ( fabric4 ,c>d ,no4 #b w\ld be cut z foll[s3 ,"o space cut1 "o left intact1 ?ree cut out1 n9e left intact1 ?ree cut out1 & "o left intact4 ,?is %\ld be repeat$ z ) ,no4 #a c>d4 ,ea* c>d !reaft] %\ld be cut accord+ to ! m>k+ ( ! cross section pap]1 & numb]$ z cut1 s z to avoid tr\ble 9 assembl+ !m 9 _! prop] ord] :5 f9i%$4 ,x %\ld be und]/ood t ! "p ( ?is lay\t f ! "r side to ! dott$ l9e is ! complete design1 & all to ! left z well z above & bel[1 w\ld be a duplicate ( ?is4 ,aft] ^! c>ds are put on ! c>d cyl9d]1 atta*$ l an endless belt1 & ! ma*9e is 9 op]ation1 :5 c>d ,no4 #ah has f9i%$ ! la/ "p ( ! design1 c>d ,no4 #a w />t imm$iately 9 ! next r\nd on its "p ( ! design4 ,:5 x comes to c>d ,no4 #f1 t squ>e w h be5 complet$1 & a new squ>e 9 ! c5t] section w h be5 />t$4 ,! two-tone color effect is made by us+ two diff]5t color$ y>ns & us+ a plat+ y>n c>ri]4 ,?is ?r[s "o color on ! face 9 ! j]sey /it* & ! o!r color on ! face 9 ! purl /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gc4 ,claes & ,fl5tje ,automatic ,n>r[+ ,ma*9e4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,flat ,,lat* ,,ne$le ,,automatic ,,n>r[+ ,,ma*9e ,,! flat lat* ne$le automatic n>r[+ ma*9e z built by ,messrs4 ,claes ,fl5tje is %[n 9 ,fig4 #gc1 & a piece ( fabric f ?is ma*9e n>r[$ d[n f\rte5 ne$les is %[n 9 ,fig4 #gd4 ,?is ma*9e is q complicat$ :5 comp>$ ) any t h be5 tak5 up be=e1 b ^? :o h /udi$ :at has gone be=e c>efully1 especially t "p treat+ on fa%ion$ g>m5ts & h[ !y are made by h&1 %\ld h no tr\ble 9 und]/&+ ! pr9ciples & movem5ts necess>y to d ?is "w automatically4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gd4 ,fabric ,n>r[$ ,d[n on ,automatic ,n>r[+ ,ma*9e4 ,! ma*9e %[n is really f\r sep>ate & complete units m\nt$ ^u "o frame or /& & driv5 by "o belt1 ) ! automatic movem5ts op]at$ f "o control4 ,x is evid5t f ?is t ! g>m5ts or p>ts ( g>m5ts made on ea* "o ( ^! f\r units mu/ be ! same1 or r !y mu/ h ! same numb] ( r\nds ) ! same numb] ( ne$les n>r[$ d[n1 b !y may be made f diff]5t y>ns bo? 9 k9d & color4 ,!re are f\r po9ts t %\ld be und]/ood to beg9 )3 ,fir/1 ! ma*9e is op]at$ by p[]4 ,second1 ! p[] is transmitt$ to ! driv+ pulley on ! ma*9e at all times :5 ! ma*9e is be+ op]at$4 ,?ird1 ! knitt+ me*anism mu/ be /opp$ :ile ! n>r[+ me*anism is 9 op]ation4 ,f\r?1 ! n>r[+ me*anism mu/ be at re/ dur+ ! "t ! knitt+ me*anism is 9 op]ation4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ge4 ,*ang+ ,me*anism on ,"r ,end ( ,automatic ,n>r[+ ,ma*9e4 ,we w fir/ %[ h[ x is arrang$ to automatically /op "o "p ( ! ma*9e1 say ! knitt+ op]ation1 & put ! n>r[+ me*anism 9 "w1 & aft] ?is "p has p]=m$ its functions or n>r[$ d[n "o ne$le on ea* ne$le plate1 front & back1 h[ x is /opp$ until "t to n>r[ aga91 & ! knitt+ p>ts set 9 op]ation4 ,fig4 #ge is a view ( ! "r end ( ! ma*9e1 & x is "h t ! driv+ me*anism is locat$1 also ! automatic controls4 ,! numb] #a indicates ! belt & pulley :i* drive ! ma*9e4 ,! pulley is m\nt$ loose ^u ! %aft & op]ates ! ma*9e ?r\gh a clut* :i* is ?r[n 9 or out1 z ! case may be1 by ! h&les m>k$ x 9 ,fig4 #gc4 ,! numb] #ac 7,fig4 #ge7 indicates a pla9 balance :eel on ! outside end ( ! %aft4 ,:5 ! clut* is 91 ! driv+ :eel on :i* ! belt #a runs w ( c\rse turn ! %aft #b1 on ! o!r end ( :i* !re is a small spur ge> :i* drives ! l>ge ge> #c4 ,?is l>ge ge> is automatically connect$ )1 & disconnect$ f ! crank :eel #e1 :i* :eel drives ! knitt+ me*anism ?r\gh ! connect+ rod #f & lev] y1 ,fig4 #gc1 ^: fulcrum is at s1 & is connect$ to an ext5sion ( ! c>riage at r4 ,! lev] y comes up betwe5 two ways or slides1 on :i* is m\nt$ a cros%ead at ! end ( ?is ext5sion1 & :]e ! lev] connects at r1 to keep ! ext5sion 9 alignm5t ) ! c>riages4 ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #ge1 :5 ! ma*9e is be+ op]at$ ! foll[+ p>ts are always 9 motion3 ,! driv+ :eel #a ) ! %aft #b1 toge!r ) ! small spur ge> on ! end ( ! %aft #b1 :i* _c be se5 b drives ! l>ge ge> #c1 also ! l>ge ge> #c ) ! %aft ^u :i* x is m\nt$1 :i* may be se5 runn+ beh9d ! v]tical connect+ /raps t[>d ! "r ( ! illu/ration & t]m9ates back ( ! l>ge bevel ge> #d4 ,^u ?is end ( ! %aft !re is m\nt$ a small bevel or p9ion ge> to drive ! l>ge bevel ge> #d4 ,n[ !n let u und]/& t ! crank :eel #e op]ates ! knitt+ me*anism ( ! ma*9e1 & ! bevel ge> #d1 ?r\gh a %aft :i* runs ! entire l5g? ( ! ma*9e ) a s]ies ( cams m\nt$ on x1 op]ates ! n>r[+ me*anism4 ,we h se5 t ! driv+ p>ts f ! driv+ pulley #a on ! back ( ! ma*9e1 ov] to & includ+ ! l>ge ge> #c1 & back to & includ+ ! small bevel ge> :i* drives ! l>ge bevel ge> #d are 9 motion at all times :ile ! ma*9e is 9 op]ation4 ,! ge> #d is engag$ ) ! small ge> only at ! "t ! n>r[+ is done2 :ile ! crank :eel is connect$ ) ! l>ge spur ge> #c & turn+ only :ile ! knitt+ p>ts are 9 op]ation4 ,! connection betwe5 ! crank :eel #e & ! ge> #c is simply a key-l lev] :i* may be disconnect$ by lift+ out ( place & connect$ aga9 by dropp+ back1 ?\gh !re is only "o place on ! circumf]5ce ( ! :eel :]e x c connect ! two toge!r4 ,control ( ,fa%ion+ ,me*anism ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gf4 ,ne$les & ,deck] ,po9ts ,us$ on ! ,automatic ,n>r[+ ,ma*9e4 ,! me?od ( />t+ & /opp+ ! n>r[+ or fa%ion+ me*anism is q a novel & +5i\s arrangem5t4 ,to expla9 x we w ref] to ,fig4 #ha4 ,! numb] #d indicates ! bevel ge> %[n at #d 9 ,fig4 #ge1 & #d-;a is ! small p9ion a "p ( :i* may be se5 9 ,fig4 #ge4 ,! l>g] bevel ge> #d has a small space 7?ree or f\r tee?7 cut away s x acts some:at on ! pr9ciple ( an int]mitt5t ge>4 ,:5 ! small p9ion #d-;a comes to ?is spot ! l>ge ge> #d w ( c\rse /op4 ,?is ge> is m\nt$ on ! %aft #i1 :i* may be se5 "u ! same designation 9 ,figs4 #gi & #hj1 :i* is a cont9uation ( ?is %aft4 ,x 7! ge> #d7 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ha 9 ! position :]e x w\ld be at re/ z ! small p9ion #d-;a w\ld be turn+ free & cle> on acc\nt ( ! tee? ( ! l>ge ge> be+ cut away at ?is po9t4 ,x w be not$ t !re is a p9 ext5d+ f "o side ( ! hub ( ! small p9ion ge> #d-;a4 ,on ! back ( ge> #d !re is atta*$ a box-l arrangem5t ) ! lev] #d-;b pass+ ?r\gh x1 :i* is pivot$ at p & is held out 9 ! position %[n by a spr+4 ,outside & ne> ! out] end ( ?is lev] #d-;b is ano!r ,l-%ap$ lev] #d-;d1 :i* is pivot$ at m to ! frame ( ! ma*9e4 ,x is pla9 t :5 ! lev] #d-;b is mov$ 9 ! pa? ( ! p9 #d-;c1 :i* is turn+ at all times ) ! p9ion #d-;a1 by ! "r-angl$ lev] #d-;d1 ! ge> #d w be mov$ =w>d f> en\gh = ! tee? ( ! p9ion to engage ) ! tee? ( ! l>ge ge>4 ,consequ5tly1 ! ge> #d w\ld turn "o complete revolution1 or until ! place :i* has ! tee? cut out is aga9 adjac5t to ! p9ion1 & x w\ld /op at ?is po9t4 ,?is "o revolution ( ! ge> #d completes ! execution ( "o n>r[+ op]ation or ! n>r[+ d[n ( "o ne$le on ea* ne$le plate4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gg4 ,top ( ,automatic ,n>r[+ ,ma*9e4 ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #ge1 numb] #aa indicates ! lev] or slide :i* is ! means provid$ to make ! %ift f fa%ion+ to knitt+1 & vice v]sa4 ,:5 ?is slide is at its fur!rmo/ position t[>d ! back ( ! ma*9e x is held !re by a cat*1 & ! knitt+ me*anism w\ld be 9 op]ation :ile ! fa%ion+ me*anism w\ld be at re/4 ,b imm$iately ! slide is releas$ f ! cat*1 :i* is done by a /ud on ! *a9 #ab1 a spr+ br+s x =w>d & a release b>1 by means ( an incl9$ plane1 is set to disconnect ! l>ge ge> #c 7,fig4 #ge7 f ! crank :eel #e1 :5 x gets to ! po9t :]e ! c>riages are at ! extreme "r end ( ! ne$le plates z %[n 9 ,figs4 #gg & #gh4 ,at ! same "t x raises up ! "r-angl$ lev] #d-;d 7,fig4 #ha7 :i* ?r[s 9 ! lev] #d-;b1 & ?is ( c\rse />ts ! fa%ion+ me*anism to "w4 ,j z ! ge> #d ) ! cam %aft #i completes its "o revolution ! slide is set back aga91 :i* p]mits ! ge> #c to connect ) ! crank %aft & ! ge> #d /ops z ! cut out tee? come opposite ! small p9ion4 ,! sev]al v]tical /raps :i* may be se5 at or ne> ! c5t] ( ,fig4 #ge are ! m$iums ?r\gh :i* ! automatic *anges are made by /uds com+ "u & rais+ !m4 ,^! /uds are atta*$ 9 _! sev]al positions on ! *a9 #ab4 ,we w n g into ^! fur!r1 = :ile ! con/ruction is some:at diff]5t f :at we h _h1 ! pr9ciple is ! same4 ,z ! /uds on ! *a9 come "u ! /raps1 !y raise !m up & ?is moves a /op 9 ! pa? ( ! diff]5t slides :i* *anges ! locks1 y>n c>ri]s1 etc4 ,! ,actual ,n>r[+ ,op]ation ,x w be rememb]$ t 9 n>r[+ by h& !re 7 ?ree l9es ( movem5t ( ! deck] or n>r[+ comb4 ,b l9es ( movem5t %\ld n be confus$ ) direction ( movem5t4 ,an object may be mov$ 9 "o l9e1 b if mov$ back & =? on t l9e x w\ld move 9 two directions4 ,! ?ree l9es ( movem5t are z foll[s3 ,fir/1 x is mov$ 9 a l9e p>allel ) an ext5sion ( ! l9e ( a ne$le l5g?wise1 or same z ! arr[s #a & #b 9 ,fig4 #hb4 ,we w\ld move x on ?is l9e1 & 9 ! direction ( arr[ #a to br+ ! op5+s 9 ! po9t ( ! deck] directly ov] or above ! hooks ( ! ne$les4 ,second1 x w\ld be mov$ up & d[n at "r angles to its fir/ movem5t1 & 9 ! direction indicat$ by arr[ #d to place ! op5+s 9 ! deck] po9ts on ! hooks ( ! ne$les4 ,) ! hooks ( ! ne$les caught 9 ^! op5+s ! deck] w\ld move aga9 on its fir/ l9e1 & 9 ! direction indicat$ by arr[ #b to ! po9t :]e ! lat*es are above ! loops4 ,!n ! deck]s pu% ! ne$les d[n on ! same l9e1 b 9 ! direction indicat$ by arr[ #a to ! po9t :]e ! loops on ! ne$les w close ! lat*es & drop ov] ! hooks on to ! deck] po9ts4 ,!n ! po9ts raise up ) ! loops on !m1 on ! second l9e aga91 b 9 ! direction indicat$ by arr[ #c1 to cle> ! ne$le hooks4 ,n[ we h ! ?ird l9e ( movem5t1 :i* is 9 t[>d ! o!r end ( ! ne$le plate1 z indicat$ by arr[ #e1 ! di/ance ( "o ne$le space c>ry+ ! loops on ! deck] po9ts4 ,!n !y move d[n on ! second l9e 9 ! direction indicat$ by arr[ #d1 cat* ! ne$le hooks 9 ! op5+s ( ! deck] po9ts1 draw back on fir/ l9e1 direction ( arr[ #b to ! po9t :]e ! loops w slip (f ! deck] po9ts on to ! ne$les aga94 ,! deck] !n raises up & retires to its po9t ( re/4 ,?is w leave "o empty ne$le at ! end1 :i* is drawn d[n out ( work+ position by means :i* w be expla9$ lat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gh4 ,front ( ,automatic ,n>r[+ ,ma*9e4 ,! knitt+ me*anism is n[ />t$ 9 op]ation1 & aft] putt+ on ! prop] numb] ( r\nds x /ops & ! n>r[+ proce$s z be=e4 ,if ?is explanation ( ! movem5ts ( ! deck] has be5 foll[$ c>efully by ! read]1 he w see t !re are b ?ree l9es ( movem5t 9 ! :ole n>r[+ op]ation prop]1 ?\gh on two ( ^! l9es ! movem5t is 9 opposite directions at diff]5t times4 ,to d ?is automatically only ?ree s\rces mu/ be provid$ = ! sev]al movem5ts1 z ! opposite direction ( movem5ts on ! same l9es come z a matt] ( c\rse1 o!rwise !re c\ld be b "o movem5t 9 any direction on "o l9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #gi4 ,back ( ,automatic ,n>r[+ ,ma*9e ,%[+ ,%aft ,c>ry+ ,cams = ,automatic ,movem5ts4 ,view f ,"r ,end ( ,ma*9e4 ,! s\rce ( all ( ^! movem5ts is ! %aft ^u :i* ! bevel ge> 7,figs4 #ge & #ha7 is m\nt$ & is designat$ by ! numb] #i 9 ,figs4 #ge1 #gi & #hj4 ,x may be pla9ly se5 9 ! illu/rations ) its irregul> surfac$ cams :i* p]=m ?is "w4 ,figs4 #gi & #hj are views ( ! back ( ! ma*9e1 bo? %[+ ! same p>ts1 b ,fig4 #gi is a view look+ f ! "r end1 or end ^u :i* ! driv+ me*anism is m\nt$1 :ile ,fig4 #hj is a view f ! o!r or left end look+ t[>d ! driv+ :eel4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hj4 ,%[+ ! ,same ,cam ,%aft z ,%[n 9 ,fig4 #gi b f ,left ,end ( ! ,ma*9e4 ,m\nt+ ( ! ,deck]s ,we w take up ! mann] ( m\nt+ ! deck]s & ! auxili>y p>ts ?r\gh ! m$ium ( :i* ! n>r[+ is done4 ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #gg1 ! deck] po9ts may be se5 at a1 a1 m\nt$ 9 a clamp 9 mu* ! same mann] z ! h& deck]s 7 m\nt$4 ,! deck] po9ts1 h[ev]1 are some:at diff]5t f ^? us$ 9 ! h& deck]1 ^! latt] be+ solid1 ei!r flat or r\nd1 :ile ^? on ! automatic ma*9e are half-r\nd or ,u-%ap$1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #gf1 to facilitate plac+ !m on ! hooks ( ! ne$les4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ha4 ,ge> ,arrangem5t = ,/>t+ & ,/opp+ ! ,n>r[+ ,me*anism4 ,be=e proce$+ any fur!r1 x %\ld be und]/ood t ! n>r[+ is done on bo? sets ( ne$les1 front & back1 by two sep>ate deck]s1 !re=e mo/ ( ! p>ts connect$ ) ?is op]ation t are %[n & describ$1 except ! cam %aft #i & its appurt5ances1 are 9 duplicate on front & back ( ! ma*9e4 ,! deck] po9t clamp is a "p ( a yoke :i* is clamp$ on ! two rods b & c 7,fig4 #gg7 tight en\gh to p]mit no play1 yet n s tight b t x w slide freely endwise on ! two rods4 ,!re are f\r ( ^! on ea* side1 front & back1 or two = ea* indep5d5t pair ( plates & locks4 ,! rods b & c run ! :ole l5g? ( ! ma*9e & h no end movem5t1 b b is free to move up & d[n v]tically1 :ile c acts simply z a rock] %aft or pivot ^u :i* to sw+ ! rod b1 toge!r ) ! clamp & deck] a4 ,! rod c is m\nt$ ?r\gh & ne> ! end ( ! arm d1 :i* 9 its turn is m\nt$ or pivot$ on ! rock] %aft #ac1 ,fig4 #gh1 :]e ! :ole arm may be not$4 ,9 ,fig4 #gc ! :ole five arms t are on ! front ( ! ma*9e may be se54 ,^! arms are connect$ ) a lev] b5ea? ! ne$le plates & frame by two flexible /raps %[n at f1 ,fig4 #gg4 ,! lev] to :i* ! o!r end ( ^! /raps are atta*$ may be se5 at #a1 ,fig4 #hj1 also ! ext5sion ( ! arm d1 at d-#a4 ,! spr+ :i* is atta*$ to ?is ext5sion ) ! o!r end atta*$ to a l ext5sion on ! opposite arm d1 is %[n at d-#b4 ,?is spr+ provides ! en]gy to return ! arms to1 & hold !m 9 ! position %[n 9 ,fig4 #gg1 aft] ! n>r[+ op]ation is complet$4 ,to get ! endwise movem5t ( ! deck]1 or ! movem5t we h designat$ z #a & #b 9 ,fig4 #hb1 we w ref] aga9 to ,fig4 #hj & ! lev] #a4 ,?is lev] is pivot$ on ! %aft #ab & passes "u ! %aft #i4 ,at ! po9t :]e x passes "u to "o side ( ! irregul> cam d-#c !re is a /ud ) a roll] project+ f "o side :i* comes "u & 9 contact ) ! cam d-#c4 ,we h se5 t !re is always an upw>d pull on ?is lev] #a ?r\gh ! spr+s d-#b1 & ! ext5sion d-#a1 ! arm prop] d1 & ! /raps f 7,fig4 #gg71 back d[n ?r\gh ! c5t] ( ! ma*9e to ! inn] end ( lev] #a1 ,fig4 #hj4 ,n[ x foll[s1 t if ! p]iph]y ( ?is cam d-#c is irregul>1 & ! spr+ d-#b always holds ! p9 ) ! roll] on ! side ( lev] #a1 9 close contact ) ! outside ( ?is cam1 !n by hav+ ! p]iph]y v>y1 or at diff]5t di/ances f ! c5t] at diff]5t po9ts1 ! deck]s may be mov$ to any po9t or held at any po9t 9 a l9e l5g?wise ) ! deck] po9ts by mak+ ! irregul>ities at ! prop] place & at ! prop] di/ance f ! c5t]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hb4 ,l9es ( ,movem5t ,necess>y = ,n>r[+4 ,! explanation ( ?is movem5t applies to all ( ! automatic movem5ts = n>r[+ or fa%ion+ on ?is ma*9e4 ,inasmu* z all ^! irregul> cams = ! diff]5t movem5ts are m\nt$ on ?is same %aft #i1 aft] once be+ set "r !y mu/ always be 9 syn*ronism unless ! sett+ is di/urb$ by accid5t4 ,we h se5 h[ ! fir/ movem5t is secur$ to br+ ! op5+s 9 ! deck] po9ts d[n to a po9t directly ov] ! ne$le hooks4 ,we h assum$ t !y 7 9 a l9e sidewise to beg9 )4 ,n[ we w see h[ ! second movem5t1 or br++ ! deck]s d[n on to ! hooks ( ! ne$les aft] be+ mov$ directly ov] !m1 & lift+ !m (f aga91 is accompli%$4 ,second & ,?ird ,movem5ts ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #gg1 x has be5 expla9$ h[ ! deck] po9ts ) _! clamp a & yoke are m\nt$ on ! rods b & c 9 su* a mann] t !y w sw+ freely ) ! rod c act+ z a pivot4 ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #gh1 we f9d t ! rods c & b h ano!r yoke at i1 :i* is atta*$ securely to ^! rods1 ) a %ort ext5sion t[>d ! outside ( ! ma*9e on :i* to atta* ! connection rod h4 ,if we n[ turn to ,fig4 #gi1 we w f9d t ! connection rod h comes d[n & is atta*$ at ! o!r end to a lev] at j4 ,:ile1 z ! read] may surmise1 ! connection rod h1 ,fig4 #gh1 is on ! front ( ! ma*9e1 & ! rod h1 ,fig4 #gi1 is on ! back1 ! connections & mann] ( mov+ are ! same4 ,! lev] to :i* ?is connection rod h 7,fig4 #gi7 is atta*$ at j is m\nt$ on ! %aft #ac1 s z to sw+ up & d[n freely1 & has an ext5sion on ! o!r side ( ! %aft f :i* !re is ano!r rod connect+ x ) ! inside end ( lev] #b4 ,?is lev] has ! prop] movem5ts imp>t$ to x ?r\gh ! p9 & roll]1 :i* may be pla9ly se51 re/+ on ! p]iph]y ( an irregul> cam1 j ! same z has be5 expla9$ = lev] #a = ! fir/ movem5t1 except t ! p9 & roll] re/ on ! top ( ! cam 9 ?is in/ance1 :ile 9 ! =m] case ! p9 & roll] 7 held firmly up aga9/ ! bottom ( ! cam by a coil spr+4 ,! ?ird movem5t to c>ry ! loops 9 t[>d ! c5t] "o ne$le1 designat$ 9 ,fig4 #hb z #e1 is a /raight l9e movem5t & always 9 "o direction4 ,b ! movem5t z to di/ance mu/ be m exact ?an ei!r ( ! o!rs1 !re=e :ile ! s\rce ( ! movem5t is ! same z ! o!rs1 an irregul> cam on ! cam %aft #i1 ! transmission ( x to ! deck]s is accompli%$ 9 an entirely diff]5t mann]4 ,f9e ,adju/m5t ,necess>y ,we w ref] aga9 to ,fig4 #gg1 :]e we w f9d two long flat /eel /raps1 "o on ea* side ( ! ma*9e1 m>k$ e & e4 ,x w be not$ t ^! /raps are atta*$ securely to ! yokes t c>ry ! deck]s1 z well z to ! cros%eads or bridges m>k$ l & m4 ,rea*+ across f "o to ! o!r & atta*$ to ^! bridges is a yoke ! two arms ( :i* are indicat$ by k & k4 ,^! two arms come toge!r at ! c5t] 9 a hub ?r\gh :i* runs ! worm or screw indicat$ by g4 ,on ! out] end ( ?is worm is a small spur ge> :i* me%es into ! ge> h4 ,back ( ! ge> h is a rat*et ge>1 & bo? are rigidly atta*$ to ! small %aft & turn toge!r4 ,n[ x is q evid5t t if ! rat*et & ge> m>k$ h are turn$ 9 ! "r direction1 :i* w\ld be ! top t[>d ! "r1 ?is w\ld turn ! worm1 :i* w\ld move ! yoke k & k1 toge!r ) ! bridges l & m1 also ! /raps e & e1 & !y1 ( c\rse1 w\ld move ! deck]s4 ,! pr9ciple ( ! worm or screw us$ to make ?is movem5t p]mits an almo/ micromet] adju/m5t ( ! di/ance mov$4 ,to f9d ! me?od us$ to turn ! rat*et ge> & spur ge> h1 we w ref] aga9 to ,fig4 #ge1 :]e ! rat*et ge> is m>k$ y & its pawl n4 ,?is w h>dly ne$ an explanation1 z ! me?od ( work+ may be pla9ly se5 by foll[+ out ! pawl lev] to ! connection rod x1 & d[n to ! lev] #h1 :i* is rais$ ! prop] di/ance at j ! prop] "t by ! cam directly "u x1 & 9 ?is mann] turns ! rat*et4 ,9 n>r[+1 :5 x comes to ! po9t :]e ! deck] is to be plac$ on ! ne$le hooks1 x is imp]ative t ! lat*es ( ^? ne$les on :i* ! transf]r+ is to be done are all op51 o!rwise ! deck] w n cat* ! hook4 ,also aft] n>r[+ d[n "o ne$le1 ! empty ne$le mu/ be drawn d[n out ( ! op]at+ position4 ,! mann] ( do+ ?is is z foll[s3 ,! ne$les us$ 9 ?is ma*9e h an ext5sion ( ! %ank1 & on ! l[] end ( ?is !re is ano!r butt z %[n at b1 ,fig4 #gf4 ,?is extra butt is !re solely = ! manipulation ( ! ne$les = ?is purpose4 ,j be=e ! deck] is ready to drop on to ! ne$le hooks1 ! ne$les are pu%$ up "p way to meet x by ! hoe-%ap$ "p designat$ by ! lett] o 9 ,fig4 #gh4 ,?is hoe is atta*$ to ! block p1 :i* 9 its turn is atta*$ to ! long /eel /rap #ag1 !n ! :ole is m\nt$ on a slide directly b5ea? ! /rap ^u :i* x may slide l5g?wise ( ! ma*9e4 ,! slide is atta*$ to ! connect+ /rap #ai1 ! o!r end ( :i* is atta*$ to ! lev] #bj1 !re=e ! hoe o & ! block p may be mov$ l5g?wise ( ! ma*9e by ! /rap #ag1 & ! :ole1 includ+ ! slide b5ea? & ! connect+ /rap #ai1 may be mov$ up & d[n on a l9e ) ! movem5t ( ! ne$les by sw++ ! lev] #bj1 :i* is pivot$ on ! rod #ah4 ,z ! deck]s make _! fir/ movem5t d[n to align ! op5+s ov] ! ne$le hooks1 ! hoe o is mov$ upw>d by ! lev] #bj1 &1 inasmu* z x is directly "u & contigu\s to ! l[] butts ( ! ne$les1 x w pu% ^? ne$les up ahead ( x to ! po9t :]e ! loops w op5 & lie across ! lat*es1 ?us leav+ ! ne$le hooks free to receive ! deck]s4 ,! hoe !n retires :ile ! deck]s pu% ! ne$les d[n1 b is us$ a numb] ( times 9 ! same mann] to assi/ ! deck]s 9 ! manipulation ( ! ne$les dur+ ! n>r[+ op]ation4 ,9 ! meantime x is mov$ ov] t[>d ! c5t] ( ! ma*9e at ! same "t ! deck]s are1 z x also is connect$ ) ! yoke k & k1 ,fig4 #gg4 ,z ! deck]s are f9i%+ _! "p ( ! "w1 ! hoe is mov$ upw>d aga9 & a hook$ f+]1 :i* lies j at ! "r & is almo/ :olly conceal$ by ! hoe1 hooks ov] ! empty ne$le butt & draws ! ne$le d[n out ( ! op]at+ position z ! hoe retires to ! position %[n4 ,! fabric photograph %[n 9 ,fig4 #gd is "p ( a /orm coll> made = a ,%ak] sweat]4 ,! wide "p is t "p ( ! coll> t cov]s f ! top ( ! %\ld] d[n to :]e ! n>r[+ /ops at ! c5t] ( ! brea/4 ,! n>r[ /rip is a "p ( ! bord] on ! front op5+ ^u :i* is plac$ ! buttons & button-holes4 ,x is n>r[$ d[n five ne$les1 ) f\r r\nds betwe5 9 ! fir/ "p1 :ile ! la/ "p has n9e n>r[+s ) "o r\nd betwe54 ,on ?is ma*9e1 :ile ! n>r[+ is all automatic1 aft] ea* g>m5t or "p is f9i%$ x is necess>y to reset ! ma*9e by h&1 t is1 pu% up ^? ne$les t h be5 n>r[$ d[n1 move ! deck]s & hoe back to ! />t+ po9t by turn+ ! crank i1 ,fig4 #gg1 !n move ! c>riages across & put 9 ei!r a comb1 or a hook made specially = ?is purpose1 to hold d[n ! /it*es on ! ne$les j pu%$ up into work+ position4 ,lett] j indicates ! y>n lead+ into ! y>n c>ri]4 ,! numb]s #ae 9 ,figs4 #gi & #hj indicate ! bo>d or /& ^u :i* ! y>n is plac$ = use 9 ! ma*9e4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,! ,,flat ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9e--,,h[ ,,x ,,diff]s ,,f ,,! ,,purl ,,/it* ,,jacqu>d ,,ma*9e--,,type ,,( ,,fabric ,,produc$--,,me?ods ,,( ,,ne$le ,,selection--,,diff]5ce ,,betwe5 ,,s+le ,,jacqu>d ,,& ,,d\ble ,,jacqu>d--,,explanation ,,( ,,design ,,& ,,patt]n ,,c>ds ,,s f> z ! knitt+ me*anism is conc]n$1 ! flat jacqu>d ma*9e is design$ & con/ruct$ along ! same l9es z ! ord9>y flat ma*9e1 ) ! c>d cyl9d] = c>ds & ! o!r necess>y appurt5ances add$4 ,fig4 #hc is a g5]al view ( a ,dubi$ jacqu>d ma*9e1 :i* is semi-automatic b op]at$ by h&4 ,?is illu/ration & ! o!r photographs = ?is *apt] 7 secur$ ?r\gh ! c\rtesy ( ,d4 ,nusbaum ,co4 ,! c>d cyl9d] & c>ds are practically ! same z us$ on ! purl /it* ma*9e & expla9$ 9 a =m] *apt]1 b obvi\sly ! application mu/ be some:at diff]5t ow+ to ! diff]5t con/ruction & mann] ( op]at+ ! ne$les 9 ?is ma*9e4 ,inasmu* z !re are two sets ( ne$les oppos$ "o to ! o!r1 & ea* set =ms ! /it*es :i* %[ on _! respective sides ( ! fabric1 x is possible & cu/om>y to make ! designs 9 solid colors1 diff]+ 9 ?is respect f ! l9ks & l9ks or purl /it* ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hc4 ,dubi$ ,automatic ,jacqu>d ,flat ,b$ ,ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hd4 ,back ( ,flat ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e ,%[+ a ,set ( ,c>ds1 ,m\nt$4 ,! jacqu>d design$ fabrics are usually made 9 :at w\ld1 on an ord9>y ma*9e1 be ! "o & "o rib or pla9 /it*4 ,! tuck or c>digan /it* is n resort$ to to br+ out ! design z 9 "s o!r sy/ems4 ,/rictly speak+1 h[ev]1 ! /it* is n :at c\ld prop]ly be call$ a rib /it*1 b is a comb9ation ( a pla9 rib & j]sey /it* :5 made on ! s+le jacqu>d1 & is almo/ :olly ( ! j]sey /it* con/ruction :5 made on ! d\ble jacqu>d :]e ! design is br\ght out on bo? sides ( ! fabric4 ,! s+le jacqu>d is s call$ :5 ! jacqu>d arrangem5t is on "o plate only1 usually ! back "o4 ,! d\ble jacqu>d ma*9e is "o :i* has ! jacqu>d atta*m5t on bo? ! front & back plates4 ,) ! s+le jacqu>d ! design c be br\ght out on "o side ( ! fabric only1 :ile ) ! d\ble jacqu>d ! design may be br\ght out on bo? sides ( ! fabric1 b ! colors w\ld be rev]s$4 ,type ( ,fabric ,produc$ ,be=e go+ into ! me*anical con/ruction ( ! atta*m5t we w to "s ext5t analyze ! fabric to f9d out :at mu/ be done to produce x4 ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #hg1 :i* is a photographic reproduction ( a fabric made on ! ma*9e "u discussion1 x w be not$ t bo? ! design & ! gr\nd are 9 solid colors4 ,! rectangul> figures :i* might be call$ ! design are 9 solid black1 :ile ! squ>es1 bo? ! l>ge ones & ! small ones1 :i* w\ld be ! gr\nd1 are solid :ite4 ,x %\ld be und]/ood t !re are two y>n c>ri]s us$ 9 mak+ ?is fabric1 "o = ! :ite y>n & "o = ! black1 & t ^! c>ri]s are *ang$ e r\nd2 t is1 "o r\nd ( :ite1 & "o r\nd ( black1 alt]nat+ ?r\gh\t ! fabric4 ,n[ inasmu* z we "k t ! fabric is made 9 ! pla9 /it*1 x is q obvi\s t 9 ord] to make ?is design means mu/ be provid$ to p]mit only ^? ne$les to knit :i* are mak+ ! :ite gr\nd on any c\rse 9 :i* ! c>ri] ) ! :ite y>n is be+ us$4 ,simil>ly only ^? ne$les mak+ ! black design mu/ be p]mitt$ to knit on ! c\rse 9 :i* ! c>ri] ) ! black y>n is us$4 ,! ne$les or wales1 ( c\rse1 run v]tically 9 ! fabric1 :ile ! rectangul> design is diagonal1 !re=e x is pla9 t ! numb] ( ne$les or _! relative positions mu/ be *ang$ ea* c\rse4 ,9 ?is fabric ! design is br\ght out on "o side only1 ! back plate1 & ! ne$les on ! opposite side or front plate are knitt+ ea* "t ! c>riage is mov$ across ! ma*9e z expla9$ 9 detail lat]4 ,?is may be pla9ly se5 9 ,fig4 #hg1 :]e ! corn] is turn$ ov] to %[ ! back ( ! fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #he4 ,back & ,end ( ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e ,%[+ ,details ( ,necess>y ,movem5ts4 ,n[ to f9d ! me?od ( select+ ! prop] ne$les at ! prop] "t we w ref] fir/ to ,fig4 #hf1 :i* is a photographic reproduction ( ! cam sy/em us$ 9 ?is ma*9e2 also to ,fig4 #ij1 :i* is a draw+ ( a cross section ( ! ne$le plates4 ,x w be not$ 9 ,fig4 #ij t !re are two sep>ate ne$le plates4 ,! top "o is = ! ne$les prop]1 :ile ! l[] "o is = ! auxili>y ne$les4 ,^! two plates are 9 p]fect alignm5t1 bo? z to ! surface & ! ne$le tricks or slots4 ,9 ! d\ble jacqu>d ! front plate w\ld be 9 two p>ts & a duplicate ( ! back plate1 b 9 ! s+le jacqu>d ! front side w\ld h :at is ! upp] plate on ! back side only1 & w\ld use ! %ort ne$les z %[n at b1 ,fig4 #hi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hf4 ,con/ruction & ,arrangem5t ( ,cams & ,locks 9 ,dubi$ ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 ,! ,cam ,sy/em ,ref]r+ n[ to ! cam sy/em %[n 9 ,fig4 #hf1 x w be not$ t :ile 9 g5]al appe>ance ! upp] & l[] set ( locks are simil>1 ! w+ or /it* cam l & m are n only diff]5t 9 %ape f ! l[] w+ cams f & g1 b !y are set diff]5tly 9 _! relation to ! ,v or rise cams a & c4 ,! cams z %[n are set 9 ! prop] position to make jacqu>d or design "w4 ,! upp] rise cams c1 d & e are drawn up into ! plate out ( work+ position1 !re=e ^? ne$les select$ to op]ate on any c\rse mu/ be rais$ by ! l[] rise cams a & b4 ,! upp] lock op]ates on ! butts ( ! ne$les prop] %[n at b1 ,fig4 #ij1 :ile ! l[] lock op]ates ^u ! auxili>y ne$les %[n at a 9 ! same illu/ration4 ,n[1 !n x is pla9 t ! ne$les prop] w n be rais$ up1 !re=e _c draw new loops or knit unless !y are rais$ by ! auxili>y ne$les a1 ,fig4 #ij1 :i* 9 _! turn are rais$ by ! cams a & b1 ,fig4 #hf4 ,b x %\ld be not$ t ! auxili>y ne$les are drawn d[n bel[ ! po9t ( ! rise cams a on ea* c\rse1 z ! w+ cams f & g ext5d bel[ ^! corn]s1 !re=e1 on e c\rse1 unless "o ( ! w+ cams f or g is drawn up into ! cam plate out ( work+ position1 all ( ! auxili>y ne$les are drawn d[n out ( work+ position & w n op]ate on ! next succe$+ c\rse unless put into work+ position by o!r means4 ,^! w+ cams f & g are *amf]$ (f on ! outside1 s t any auxili>y ne$les pu%$ up above ! l[] end & into op]at+ position w slide "u & raise !m up into ! cam plate4 ,! inn] edge is a squ>e corn] consequ5tly w1 ^u com+ 9 contact ) ! ne$le butts1 draw !m d[n out ( ! work+ position4 ,! auxili>y ne$les be+ a sep>ate unit h no effect on ! ne$les prop] on _! d[nw>d movem5t1 b mu/1 ( c\rse1 raise !m on ! upw>d movem5t by com+ 9 contact ) ! l[] ends4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hg4 ,fabric ,design ,made on a ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 ,^? ( ! ne$les prop] t are mov$ up into "w are br\ght d[n aga9 & =m new loops by ! /it* cams l & m1 ,fig4 #hf4 ,! small triangul> cams j & k are = cle>+ ! ne$les :5 a v %ort /it* is be+ drawn by ! /it* cams l & m4 ,h[ ,ne$les ,are ,select$ ,n[ to %[ h[ ! ne$les are select$ we w fir/ ref] to ,fig4 #hi1 :i* %[s ! ne$le prop] at b & ! auxili>y ne$le at a4 ,! auxili>y ne$le has a jo9t 9 x z %[n at h to p]mit ! l[] end e to sw+ to ! position %[n by ! dott$ l9e i4 ,fig4 #ij %[s ! auxili>y ne$les 9 position ) ! c>d cyl9d] & c>ds 9 place ready to pu% !m up into op]ation4 ,^? ne$les :i* x is desir$ n to op]ate at all1 su* z ! ne$les at ! end ( ! plate t may n be ne$$1 are drawn d[n & ! ends are turn$ d[n to ! po9t :]e !y are at "r angles to ! plate1 z %[n by ! dott$ l9e at i4 ,:5 !y are 9 ?is position ! c>ds _c ( c\rse pu% !m up into op]at+ position4 ,! %ort nib t looks l a "p ( a ne$le1 indicat$ at f1 & ! c>d cyl9d] %[n at g are n a "p ( ! me*anism "u consid]ation1 b are ano!r me?od ( ne$le selection :i* w be expla9$ lat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hh4 o-,black2 x-,:ite4 ,designs ,%[n 9 ,fig4 #hg ,lay$ ,out on ,cross ,section ,pap] = ,cutt+ ,c>ds4 ,fig4 #hd is a g5]al view ( ! back ( ! ma*9e %[+ a set ( c>ds on ! c>d cyl9d] ready = "w4 ,fig4 #he %[s ! me*anism us$ to br+ ! cyl9d] ) ! c>ds into action4 ,! c>ds & cyl9d] ne$ no di/+ui%+ m>k z !y %\ld be easily recogniz$ f :at has gone be=e4 ,! same ?+ applies to ! auxili>y ne$les j above1 "p ( :i* are turn$ d[n to ! po9t :]e !y _c be put into op]ation4 ,lett] j indicates ! end ( ! %aft ^u :i* ! c>d cyl9d] is m\nt$1 & c is ! elongat$ op5+ 9 :i* x moves up & d[n4 ,?is op5+ is on ! same diagonal plane z ! ne$le plates & has its duplicate at ! o!r end :i* c>ries ! o!r end ( ! c>d cyl9d]4 ,! rock] %aft d is m\nt$ j "u ! c>d cyl9d] & has two lev]s securely atta*$1 ! o!r ends ( :i* are connect$ to ! c>d cyl9d] %aft1 "o at ei!r end4 ,on ! out] end ( ! rock] %aft d is ano!r lev] indicat$ by ! lett] e4 ,?is is connect$ to ! camway h ?r\gh ! ext5sion k4 ,?is camway is m\nt$ 9 su* a mann] t x c be mov$ only 9 "o direction1 & t direction is up & d[n diagonally or on ! same plane z ! back ne$le plates4 ,z ! c>riage rea*es ! extreme end ( its travel ! p9 g1 :i* is atta*$ to ! c>riage1 ent]s & foll[s ! camway4 ,inasmu* z ! cams are set on an incl9e ?is p9 or plung] mu/ raise ! camway toge!r ) ! end ( ! lev] e4 ,?r\gh ! rock] %aft d & ! two lev]s be=e m5tion$ z connect+ ! rock] %aft ) ! c>d cyl9d]1 ?is w br+ ! c>d cyl9d] up to ! l[] edge ( ! auxili>y ne$le plate4 ,?is action w ( c\rse pu% all ^? ne$les into action t come 9 contact ) ! p>ticul> c>d t may be on t side ( ! c>d cyl9d] at ! "t4 ,:]e ! op5+s are cut 9 ?is c>d ! ne$les w pass ?r\gh & h no contact1 !re=e w n be pu%$ up into work+ position4 ,z ! c>d cyl9d] returns to its l[e/ position x is turn$ a qu>t] turn by ! /ation>y hook$ dog a1 :i* cat*es a too?1 ( :i* !re are f\r1 ( a rat*et :eel :i* is also securely atta*$ to ! c>d cyl9d] %aft4 ,9 ?is way ! c>d cyl9d] is turn$ a qu>t] turn ea* "t x is mov$ up to ! auxili>y plate1 :i* br+s a new c>d into position to make ano!r selection ( ne$les = ! next c\rse4 ,lett] f indicates a c\nt]weight :i*1 z w be not$1 is atta*$ to ! rock] %aft d to assi/ 9 return+ ! c>d cyl9d] to its l[e/ position & hold x !re aft] its return4 ,lett] i indicates an ord9>y patt]n *a9 on :i* ! prop] /uds are atta*$ to *ange ! y>n c>ri]s automatically4 ,?ree ,units ,may ,be ,rack$ ,9 ?is type ( jacqu>d ma*9e !re are ?ree sep>ate & di/9ct units :i* may be rack$ or mov$ at "r angles to ! movem5t ( ! ne$les4 ,!y are1 fir/1 ! ne$le plate prop] :i* racks ! same z ! ord9>y flat ma*9e2 second1 ! auxili>y ne$le plate2 & ?ird1 ! c>d cyl9d] toge!r ) ! c>ds4 ,! rack+ ( ! ne$le plate prop] is necess>y to make ^? designs 9 :i* a rack 9 ! fabric is requir$1 b ! o!r two are *iefly a matt] ( conv5i5ce to save mak+ up c>ds4 ,!re are _m designs t may be made ) "o or f\r c>ds1 or ev5 )\t any c>ds1 by manipulation ( ^! rack+ movem5ts1 :]e o!rwise q a /r+ ( c>ds w\ld be requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #hi4 ,ne$les ,prop] & ,auxili>y ,ne$les ,us$ 9 ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e4 ,we w take = example any design consi/+ ( a small block or *eck )9 ! limits ( ! ne$les ! auxili>y plate w rack ov]4 ,su* a design may be made )\t c>ds 9 ?is way4 ,say we wi% to make a black & :ite *eck f\r ne$les wide & f\r c\rses high4 ,we w\ld put up into op]at+ position f\r auxili>y ne$les & draw f\r d[n1 alt]nat+ 9 ?is way ) f\r up & f\r d[n = ! wid? ( ! fabric4 ,!n1 ref]r+ to ,fig4 #hf1 we w\ld draw up out ( op]at+ position z %[n ! rise cams c1 d & e1 also ! w+ cams f & g4 ,?is w\ld p]mit ! alt]nat+ f\r auxili>y ne$les we h left 9 op]at+ position to always /ay 9 ?is position4 ,n[1 aft] putt+ on "o r\nd or two c\rses (1 let u say1 :ite we w\ld rack ! auxili>y plate ov] f\r ne$les & !n put on a r\nd ( black2 rack back ! f\r ne$les & put on a r\nd ( :ite1 rack ! o!r way f\r ne$les & put on a r\nd ( black4 ,if we c\ld see ! fabric made ?us f> we w\ld f9d t we _h a r[ ( blocks or *ecks f\r ne$les wide & f\r c\rses high4 ,= al?\gh we h put on f\r c\rses ea* ( ! black & :ite1 :i* makes eight c\rses 9 all1 ea* color has be5 put on its own gr\p ( f\r ne$les2 !re=e ! :ole w build up ! fabric b f\r c\rses4 ,if we cont9u$ to op]ate ! ma*9e 9 ! same mann] we w\ld get alt]nate black & :ite /ripes1 ea* f\r ne$les wide4 ,to break !m up into *ecks or squ>es we w\ld at ?is po9t h to ei!r skip rack+ once :ile cont9u+ ! *ange ( c>ri]s ea* r\nd1 or miss *ang+ c>ri]s once :ile cont9u+ ! rack ( f\r ne$les ea* r\nd4 ,?is *ange mu/ ( c\rse be made e f\r r\nds ?r\gh\t ! l5g? ( ! fabric1 or z long z x is desir$ to make ! *eck4 ,x %\ld be rememb]$ t x is ! auxili>y plate t is rack$ 9 ?is case1 & n ! ne$les prop]2 !re=e ! rack does n %[ 9 ! fabric4 ,b ! %ift+ ( ^! alt]nate sets ( f\r auxili>y ne$les ea* r\nd causes alt]nate gr\ps ( f\r ( ! ne$les prop] to knit1 ! set :i* knits dep5d+ on :i* way ! auxili>y plate is rack$4 ,?is same *eck design may be made ) "o c>d prop]ly cut by prev5t+ ! c>d cyl9d] f turn+ & rack+1 or mov+ ! c>d cyl9d] back & =? f\r ne$les 9 ! same mann] z ! auxili>y plate 0 mov$4 ,or x may be made ) f\r c>ds )\t mov+ ei!r ! plate or c>d cyl9d]4 ,9 ?is case x w\ld be necess>y to use all ! auxili>y ne$les & l[] ! w+ cams f & g1 ,fig4 #hf1 into action4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ij4 ,cross ,section ( ,ne$le ,plates & ,c>d ,cyl9d]4 ,9 mak+ a fabric on a d\ble jacqu>d ma*9e :i* %[s ! design on "o side only1 x is good practice to put f\r c>ds on ! front cyl9d] prop]ly cut to put alt]nate ne$les into op]ation on alt]nate c\rses1 9 ord] to prev5t putt+ m c\rses on ! front plate ?an on ! back4 ,or to expla9 x 9 ano!r way1 ! ne$le 9 ! back plate t makes ! :ite "p ( ! design knit only on ! r\nds on :i* ! :ite ?read c>ri] is us$1 & ! ne$les t make ! black p>ts op]ate only :5 ! c>ri] ) ! black y>n is 9 use4 ,n[ x is pla9 t if all ! ne$les 9 ! front plate are p]mitt$ to knit ea* r\nd we w\ld h approximately twice z _m c\rses on ! front z on ! back4 ,?is is obviat$1 z /at$ be=e1 by us+ c>ds on ! front c>d cyl9d] to pu% up into op]ation e alt]nate ne$le :5 mov+ ! c>riage say f left to "r1 & p]mitt+ ^! to rema9 idle & pu%+ ^? n op]at$ on ?is c\rse into op]ation on ! return c\rse f "r to left4 ,:ile ?is is desirable x is n ess5tial1 = x _c be done on a s+le jacqu>d1 ?\gh !re are _m nice designs & fabrics made on ?is ma*9e4 ,explanation ( ,patt]n ,fig4 #hg %[s a fabric made on a d\ble jacqu>d ma*9e ) bo? c>d cyl9d]s 9 op]ation4 ,be=e go+ any fur!r x %\ld be und]/ood t bo? ! front & back c>d cyl9d]s c be op]at$ & make a new selection ( ne$les at ! end ( ea* c\rse1 or :5 ! c>riage is at ! end ( its travel at bo? ends ( ! ma*9e4 ,?is design is made by op]at+ ! c>d cyl9d]s 9 ?is way4 ,fig4 #hh is a lay\t ( ! design %[n 9 ,fig4 #hg4 ,x is "o complete repeat ( ! design z %[n by ! squ>e box 9 ,fig4 #hg4 ,all ! re/ ( ! fabric is simply a repetition ( ?is1 b :5 gr\p$ toge!r on a l>ge piece ( fabric !y appe> entirely diff]5t4 ,z may be se5 9 ,fig4 #hh1 x w\ld take #cf c>ds to make ?is design4 ,9 cutt+ ! c>ds = ?is we w\ld cut out ! places %[n blank & leave ! c>d :ole to pu% ! ne$les into op]ation 9 ! places m>k$ by an x or an o4 ,?is cutt+ w\ld ( c\rse h to be repeat$ ! wid? ( ! fabric1 or ! l5g? ( ea* c>d4 ,! pr9ciple z expla9$ is us$ on all makes ( flat jacqu>d knitt+ ma*9es1 b ! me?od us$ to put ! ne$les into op]ation by ! c>ds diff]s ) ! diff]5t build]s4 ,= example1 "o popul> me?od is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ij1 :]e ! c>d cyl9d] is plac$ directly bel[ ! "u surface ( ! auxili>y plate z %[n at g1 & acts on a %ort nib ) ! butt turn$ d[nw>d & ext5d+ ?r\gh ! plate z %[n at f4 ,) ?is me?od x is cu/om>y to use a long ne$le ) two butts z %[n 9 ,fig4 #hi at f1 in/ead ( ! %ort "o ) an auxili>y ne$le4 ,also ) ?is me?od ! ne$le plate w\ld be a s+le wide plate ) ! tricks or ne$le slots cut gradually deep] z !y rea*$ ! l[] edge1 s t at ! po9t :]e ! l[] butts ( ! ne$les come ! trick is deep en\gh s t ! ne$le may be depress$ to br+ ! top ( ! l[] butts flu%1 or j bel[1 ! top surface ( ! ne$le plate4 ,:5 op]at+ ! ma*9e ^! butts always rema9 9 ?is position1 !re=e w n knit unless rais$ up & put into op]ation by ! c>ds4 ,if we %\ld cut a set ( c>ds j ! rev]se ( ! set laid out 9 ,fig4 #hh1 t is1 cut out :]e ^! are n1 & leave uncut :]e ^! are cut1 & put ?is set on ! front c>d cyl9d] & op]ate !m 9 conjunction ) & opposite to ! back set1 we w\ld h ! same design on bo? sides ( ! fabric1 b ! colors w\ld be rev]s$4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,index ,a ,automatic ,control1 #fj1 #fg ,automatic ,drop ,locks1 #cj ,automatic ,drop ,v ,cams1 #ca ,automatic ,jacqu>d1 ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 #ajj ,automatic ,n>r[+ or ,fa%ion+ ,ma*9e1 #aac ,automatic ,s+le ,lock ,ma*9e1 #eg ,automatic ,wid5+ ,ma*9e1 #gh ,b ,bridge1 #ei ,bridges1 #ia1 #abf ,c ,cams1 #ah1 #ca1 #aae ,cams1 ,diff]5ce ,betwe5 ,dubi$ & ,lamb ,sy/em1 #di ,cam1 ,explanation (1 #ah ,cams1 ,gu>d1 #di ,cam ,plate1 #cb ,cams1 ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 #ij1 #ajc ,cam1 ,rack+1 #ch ,cams1 ,/it*1 #gd ,cam ,sy/em1 ,jacqu>d1 #acd ,cams1 ,v1 #ca ,cams1 ,wid5+ ,ma*9e1 #ha ,cams1 ,w+1 #ace ,c>riage1 #ah ,c>riage1 ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 #ij1 #if ,c>digan1 ,half1 #bi ,c>digan1 ,full1 #bi ,c>digan1 ,half1 ,h[ ,made1 #cj1 #dg ,c>digan1 ,full1 ,h[ ,made1 #cc1 #dh ,c>ds1 #ajf1 #abi1 #acf ,c>d ,cyl9d]1 #ajf1 #abi1 #acf ,c>ds1 to ,cut1 #aaj1 #adj ,*ang+ ! ,/it*1 #fc1 #gd1 #if1 #ajc ,*ang+ ,y>n ,c>ri]s1 #fd1 #gc1 #ge1 #if ,claes ,fl5tje ,ma*9e1 #aac ,c\nt]1 #ei1 #hi ,c\nt+ ,cyl9d]1 #fg ,c\nt+ ,cyl9d] ,/ops1 #fi ,cotton-back1 #bi1 #df1 #ge ,cotton-back ,sweat]1 #dd1 #dh ,coll>1 ,%ap$1 #dj ,comb1 ,n>r[+1 #ea ,comb1 ,set up1 #eb ,*a9 ,drive1 #de1 #eg1 #ajj ,*a91 ,controll+1 #eg1 #ei ,*a91 ,rack+1 #ei1 #fd ,*a91 ,patt]n1 #ei ,control ( ,y>n1 #gj ,c\rse1 #aj ,crank1 #eg ,crank ,drive1 #de ,cro*et ,/it*1 #ac ,crosswise ( ! ,fabric1 #aj ,cro*et ,fabric1 #ac ,cut ,press]s1 #bi ,cyl9d] or ,drum1 ,c\nt+1 #fg1 #ajj ,cyl9d] ,divisions1 #fh ,cyl9d] ,/ops1 #fi ,cyl9d]1 to ,/op1 #gj ,cyl9d] = ,jacqu>d ,sy/em1 #ajc ,cyl9d]1 ,c>d1 #ajf1 #acf ,d ,deck]1 #ea1 #abb ,design ,"w1 #cc1 #ce ,designs1 ,rack$1 #db ,designs1 ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 #if1 #ig1 #ajj ,designs1 ,basket ,weave1 #ig ,designs1 ,diagonal ,diamond1 #ii ,design+1 ,jacqu>d ,sy/em1 #ajf1 #aji ,designs1 ,jacqu>d ,rib1 #abi ,designs1 ,lay+ ,out1 #aji ,designs ,)\t ,c>ds1 #ach ,design$ ,fabric1 #adj ,diagonal ,/it*1 #dj ,d\ble ,lock1 #df1 #gc ,d\ble ,lock ,ma*9e1 #dd1 #df ,d\ble ,jacqu>d1 #acb1 #adj ,drive1 ,*a91 #de ,drive1 ,crank1 #de ,drop ,locks1 #cj ,drop ,/it*1 #bb ,drum1 ,see ,cyl9d] ,dubi$ ,ma*9e1 #df1 #eg1 #gh1 #hh ,e ,ela/icity 9 ,knit ,fabrics1 #ae ,ela/icity ( ,rib ,fabrics1 #bf ,f ,fabric1 ,rib1 #aj ,fabric1 ,j]sey1 #aj ,fabric1 ,flat1 #aj ,fabric1 ,cro*et1 #ac ,fabric1 ,tubul>1 #bd ,fabric1 ,face1 #cc ,fabric1 ,two-,fac$1 #dd1 #df ,fabric1 ,t5sion1 #he ,fabric1 ,jacqu>d1 #acb ,fabric1 ,design$1 ,see ,designs ,false ,knop1 #fc1 #gd ,fancy ,/it*es1 ,see ,designs ,fa%ion$ ,goods1 #ea ,fa%ion+ a ,sleeve1 #ec1 #gh ,fa%ion+ ,ma*9e1 ,automatic1 #gh1 #aac ,fib]s1 ,resili5cy (1 #ae ,f+]s1 #fi1 #abg ,flat ,fabrics1 #bc ,flat ,goods1 #aj1 #bf ,frame1 #ca ,fr5* ,rack1 #fc1 #gd ,full ,c>digan1 #bi ,full ,c>digan1 ,h[ ,made1 #cc1 #dh ,g ,gib1 #ah ,gu>ds1 #ie ,h ,h& ,knitt+1 #ab ,half ,c>digan1 #bi ,half ,c>digan1 ,h[ ,made1 #cj1 #cb1 #dg ,hoe1 #abg ,i ,inv5tion ( ,knitt+ ,ma*9e1 #i1 #af1 #ag ,j ,jacks1 #bj1 #hf1 #aje ,jacks1 ,hump or ,head1 #ic ,jacks1 ,clut*1 #id ,jacqu>d1 #bi ,jacqu>d ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 #ajj ,jacqu>d ,sy/em1 #ajf ,jacqu>d ,ma*9e1 ,flat1 #abi ,jacqu>d1 ,rib ,designs1 #abi ,jacqu>d1 ,s+le1 #abi1 #adj ,jacqu>d1 ,d\ble1 #acb1 #adj ,jacqu>d ,fabric1 #acb ,j]sey ,fabric1 #aj1 #bc1 #gd ,j]sey ,fabric1 ,range (1 #be ,j]sey ,/it*1 ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 #if ,k ,knitt+ ,ma*9e1 ,inv5tion (1 #i1 #af1 #ag ,knitt$ ,fabric1 #ac ,knitt$ ,fabric1 ,con/ruction (1 #i ,knitt+1 ,h&1 #ab ,l ,lat* ,ne$les1 #af ,lat* ,ne$les1 ,inv5tion (1 #ag ,lat* ,bru%1 #bb ,lat* ,gu>ds1 #ie ,lat* ,op5]s1 #ajc ,lamb ,sy/em1 #cj1 #dg ,l5g?wise ( ! ,fabric1 #aj ,l5g? ( ,fabric1 ,limits1 #aj ,lev]s1 ,*ang+1 #ei ,l9eal ,feet p] ,m9ute1 #de ,l9ks & ,l9ks ,ma*9e1 ,see ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e ,loop1 #aj ,loop1 ,/udy (1 #aa ,locks1 #cj ,m ,ma*9e1 ,knitt+1 ,inv5tion (1 #i1 #af1 #ag ,ma*9e ,knitt+1 ,diff]5ce f ,h&1 #af ,ma*9e ,spe$1 #ba1 #de ,ma*9e1 ,d\ble ,lock1 #dd1 #df ,ma*9e1 ,s+le ,lock1 #dd1 #eg ,ma*9e1 ,automatic ,wid5+1 #gh ,ma*9e1 ,automatic ,n>r[+1 #aac ,ma*9e1 ,purl ,/it*1 #hf ,ma*9e1 ,jacqu>d1 #ajj1 #abi ,n ,n>r[+ ,comb1 #ea1 #abb ,n>r[+1 ,h[ ,done1 #ec ,n>r[+ ,ma*9e1 ,automatic1 #aac ,n>r[+1 ,l9es ( ,movem5t1 #aah ,ne$les1 ,h&1 #ab ,ne$les1 ,lat*1 ,ma*9e1 #af1 #ef1 #hc ,ne$les1 ,auxili>y1 #ace ,ne$le ,spe$1 #ba ,ne$les1 ,purl ,/it*1 #hg ,ne$les1 ,automatic ,n>r[+ ,ma*9e1 #abf ,ne$les1 ,automatic ,wid5+ ,ma*9e1 #hj1 #hc ,ne$le ,selection1 ,jacqu>d ,sy/em1 #acb1 #acf ,ne$le ,spr+s1 #bj1 #hj1 #hc ,ne$le ,plates1 #ah1 #ca1 #hj1 #hf1 #hh1 #aje ,ne$le ,plates1 ,jacqu>d1 #acd ,p ,patt]n ,:eels1 #bi ,patt]n ,*a91 #ei ,pawls1 ,rack+1 #fe ,pip+1 #dc ,plat+1 #ej ,plat+ ,y>n ,c>ri]1 #ej1 #aaa ,production1 #dd ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 #hf1 #hh ,purl ,/it* ,fabric1 #hg ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 ,jacqu>d1 #ajj ,r ,rack ,/it*1 #bi1 #ce ,rack ,/it*1 ,h[ ,made1 #cf ,rack1 ,fr5*1 #fc1 #gd ,rack1 ,bo? ,sides ( ,fabric1 #da ,rack$ ,coll>1 #dj ,rack+ ,*a91 #ei1 #fd ,rack+ ,cam1 #ch1 #fe ,rack+ ,me*anism1 #fe ,rack+ ,pawls1 #fe ,rack+ ,cam ,rat*et1 #ff ,rack+1 ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 #hi ,rib ,fabric1 #aj1 #bf1 #bg ,rib ,fabric1 ,ela/icity (1 #bf ,rib ,fabric1 ,v>ieties (1 #bi ,rib ,/it*1 #a & #a1 #b & #b1 etc41 #if ,rib1 #b & #b1 ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 #ih1 #ajj ,rules1 #ig ,s ,seams on ,fa%ion$ ,"w1 #ed ,selective ,sy/em1 #cc ,selv$ge ,edge1 #da1 #ed1 #gb ,set ,up ,comb1 #eb ,%ap$ ,coll>1 #dj ,%og or ,%ogg$1 #cf ,spe$1 #ba1 #de ,spr+s1 ,u-%ap$ ,ne$le1 #bj1 #hj ,spr+s1 ,y>n ,take-up1 #gb ,sprocket ,roll]1 #ei1 #fe ,s9k] ,loop1 #aj ,s+le ,lock ,ma*9e1 #dd1 #eg ,s+le ,jacqu>d1 #abi1 #adj ,sleeve1 ,fa%ion+1 #ec ,slots1 #ag1 #ah ,/ops1 ,c\nt+ ,cyl9d]1 #fi ,/ops1 ,y>n ,c>ri]1 #ga1 #hd ,/it*1 #aj ,/it* ,cams1 #gd1 #ia1 #ajc ,/it*1 ,drop1 #bb ,/it* ,p9s1 #gd ,/it*1 ,rack1 #bi1 #ce1 #cf1 #da ,/it*1 ,*ang+1 #fc1 #gc1 #gd1 #ajc ,/it*es on ,purl ,/it* ,ma*9e1 #if ,/rip+1 #fd ,/uds1 ,*a91 #fj1 #fe ,/uds1 ,heights1 #fc ,/uds1 ,t5sion1 #gb ,t ,take-up ,roll]1 #ei ,textile ,fib]s1 ,resili5cy (1 #ae ,t5sion ,/ud1 #gb ,t5sion on ,fabric1 #he ,t5sion = ,y>n ,take-up ,spr+1 #gb ,tricks1 #ag1 #ah1 #aje ,tripp+ ,f+]1 #fi ,tubul> ,fabric1 #bd1 #bf1 #gd ,tubul> ,rib ,fabric1 #bf ,tuck ,/it*1 #bi ,tuck ,/it*1 ,h[ ,made1 #cj ,two-fac$ ,fabric1 #dd1 #df ,v ,v ,cams1 #ca ,w ,wale1 #aj1 #cj ,weights1 #ah1 #eb1 #ei1 #hj ,wid5+ ,op]ation1 #ee ,wid5+ ,ma*9e1 #gh ,wid? ( ,fabric1 ,ne$les ,c\nt$1 #ed ,wid? ( ,fabric1 ,limitation1 #aj ,"w ,hook1 #eb1 #ee ,y ,y>n ,c>ri]1 #ba1 #ei1 #gj ,y>n ,c>ri]1 ,plat+1 #ej1 #aaa ,y>n ,c>ri]1 ,*ang+1 #fd1 #gc1 #ge1 #if ,y>n ,c>ri] ,/ops1 #ga1 #hd ,y>n ,control1 #gj ,y>n ,take-up ,spr+1 #gb ,yoke1 #ei1 #abf ,z ,zig-,zag ,/it*1 #bi ,zig-,zag ,/it*1 ,h[ ,made1 #ci ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- 8,,dubi$0 ,flat ,knitt+ ,ma*9es1 ,l9ks & ,l9ks ,ma*9es1 ,h& & ,full ,automatic ,p[] ,built by ,edw>d ,dubi$ ,co4 ,neu*atel1 ,switz]l& ,illu/ration ,ackn[l$g$ by ,us]s ,exp]ts & ,judges z 8,,! ,,be/0 ,dubi$ ,ma*9]y ,company ,e4 ,o4 ,,sp9dl] #aci ,frankl9 ,/4 ,corn] ,we/ ,broadway ,new ,york ,city ,,sole ,,ag5ts ,,= ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,,& ,,canada ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,= ,,quality ,,use ,williams' ,lat* ,ne$les & elim9ate s]i\s ne$le tr\bles ,no ,gauge ,too ,co>se ,,made ,,9 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,,! ,,caw ,,br& ,,by ,,am]ican ,,labor ,no ,gauge ,too ,f9e ,! mat]ials us$ are ! be/ obta9able1 :ile ! workman%ip is all t c be desir$4 ,we supply m sweat] mills ?an any o!r manufactur]--,:y8 7,x w pay y to inve/igate7 ,/&>d /yles c>ri$ 9 /ock ,s5d = samples & prices ,,*auncey ,a4 ,,williams ,man*e/] ,new ,hamp%ire ,mak] ( 8,,caw0 ,br& ,philadelphia ,(fice3 #dj ,s\? ,sev5? ,/reet1 ,rooms #cjd & #cje ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,textile ,ma*9e ,works1 ,read+1 ,pa4 ,! ,european ,w> has prov$ conclusively t ! ,unit$ ,/ates no long] dep5ds on ,europe = ,full ,fa%ion$ ,hosi]y & ,full ,fa%ion$ ,knitt+ ,ma*9es ,illu/ration ,^! ma*9es are ! mo/ productive & durable made1 & are successfully op]at$ by ne>ly all ! ,full ,fa%ion$ ,hosi]y ,manufactur]s 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,illu/ration ,,automatic ,,flat ,,knitt+ ,,ma*9e1 8,,gross]0 ,,type4 ,frh,g4 ,?is is "o ( ! _m types ( ma*9es us$ 9 ! art ( knitt+4 ,o!r special ma*9es h be5 design$ & develop$ 9 ! ,gross] ,plants4 ,%\ld any problem ( knitt+ puzzle y1 consult ,! ,gross] ,knitt+ ,ma*9e ,co4 #bfj ,we/ ,broadway1 ,new ,york ,,we ,,specialize ,,9 ,flat ,knitt+ ,ma*9es--,= ,h& & ,p[] ,op]ation ,full ,fa%ion$ ,hosi]y ,ma*9es--,= ,ladies' ,hose1 etc4 ,w>p ,knitt+ ,ma*9es--,ras*el1 ,*a9 & ,milanese ,type ,f9i%+ ,ma*9es--,su* z ,loop]s1 ,seam]s1 etc4 ,ne$les & ,supplies--,= ,all ,ma*9es ,h&l$ ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,m]r[+ ,,e/abli%$ #ahch ,mak]s ( ,! ,m]r[ ,high ,spe$ ,ov]seam+1 ,ov]$g+1 & ,%ell ,/it* ,ma*9es ,illu/ration ,= ,seam+1 ,hemm+ & ,edg+ ,illu/ration ,all ,k9ds ,knitt$ & ,wov5 ,fabrics ,,m]r[ise ,= ,effici5cy ,x ,means ,maximum ,production ,m9imum ,exp5se ,unexcell$ ,quality ( ,"w ,! ,m]r[ ,ma*9e ,co4 #g ,laurel ,/reet--,h>t=d1 ,conn4--,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,?ree ,dep>tm5ts ,,rodney ,,hunt ,specializ+ = ,s]vice 99 99 99 99 99 ,textile ,wet ,f9i%+ ,ma*9]y ,illu/ration ,full+ ,mills 7,pat5t$ ,type ,m7 ,m ,full+ 9 less ,"t--)\t 8,nips0 or 8,trap ,te>s40 ,booklet ,no4 #abbj ,illu/ration ,wa%]s ,equipm5t adapt$ to individual requirem5ts4 ,int]*angeable p>ts4 ,booklet ,no4 #bba ,illu/ration ,pu%] ,mills ,felts & ,knit ,goods 9 g>m5t4 ,circul> #aba ,illu/ration ,reel ,ma*9e ,blea*+1 ,dye+1 ,t9t+ or ,wa%+ )\t tangl+ or /ra9+ fabrics4 ,booklet ,no4 #aaai 99 99 99 99 99 ,illu/ration 8,rodney ,hunt0 ,wood ,rolls ,sup]ior ,quality ,rolls 8,regi/]$0 = ,maximum ,s]vice ,s5d = ,/&>d ,ord] ,%eets 99 99 99 99 99 ,wat] ,p[] ,equipm5t ,illu/ration ,v]tical & ,horizontal ,turb9es ,= ,l>ge & ,small ,/reams4 ,high returns f v>y+ fl[ ( wat]4 ,wat] ,controll+ ,app>atus 8,/&>diz$0 designs4 ,p5/ocks1 ,flumes1 ,gates & ,gate ,hoi/s1 ,scre5s1 ,valves & accessories4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,rodney ,,hunt ,,ma*9e ,,co4 #ii ,mill ,/reet ,orange1 ,massa*usetts ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,! ,ea/man ,cutt] ,illu/ration ,w enable y to save f ?irty to =ty p] c5t 9 y\r cutt+ co/s4 ,we c prove ?is to y by a free demon/ration4 ,ea/man ,ma*9e ,co4 ,buffalo1 ,n4 ,y4 ,bran* ,(fices3 ,,new ,,york #haf ,broadway ,,*icago #cae ,w4 ,van ,bur5 ,/reet ,,bo/on #hg ,summ] ,/reet ,,ro*e/] #fjd ,elwood ,build+ ,,philadelphia #aaj ,n4 ,six? ,/reet ,,baltimore #dag ,w4 ,baltimore ,/reet ,,detroit #afb ,w4 ,jeff]son ,av5ue ,,clevel& #abcd ,sup]ior ,av5ue1 ,n4 ,e4 ,,/4 ,,l\is #adbj ,olive ,/reet ,,new ,,orleans #baj ,godehaux ,build+ ,,san ,,francisco #hf ,?ird ,/reet ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,f-,a ,quality 8,! ,/&>d = ov] a ,qu>t] ( a ,c5tury0 ,,braids ,,edg+s ,,tub+ & ,,n>r[ ,,loom ,,fabrics ,fri$b]g]-,a>on ,mfg4 ,co4 ,,mills ,,& ,,g5]al ,,(fices3 #ah? & ,c\rtl& ,/reets 33 ,philadelphia ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,textile ,_w ! _w's textile au?ority ,k9ks ,e manufactur] meets problems 9 ! op]ation ( a mill :i* are difficult ( solution4 ,! *ances are #ii 9 #ajj t ! same problem has be5 enc\nt]$ & ov]come by o!rs1 & "h is :]e ,,textile ,,_w1 ?r\gh its ,que/ions & ,answ]s ,dep>tm5t1 saves h\rs ( "t & doll>s ( wa/e = mill m54 ,ea* ye> ov] #c1jjj su* practical problems are answ]$ by ,,textile ,,_w',s te*nical /aff4 ,?is s]vice is free to subscrib]s4 ,answ]s 9 e case are by p]sonal correspond5ce4 ,a numb] ( ! be/ ones are publi%$ ea* week b ! inquir]'s "n is always confid5tial4 ,,textile ,,_w is ! te*nical & m>ket au?ority ( ! indu/ry--knit goods m>kets1 y>n & raw mat]ial quotations4 ,publi%$ e ,saturday4 #d4jj p] ye> ,canada1 #a4jj extra po/age2 ,=eign1 #c4jj extra ,also ,am]ican ,directory ( ! ,knitt+ ,trade ,annually--#b4jj ,,bragdon1 ,,"l ,,nagle ,,co4 #ccd ,f\r? ,av5ue ,new ,york ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,by ! "t ?is publication is read we expect to h ready = ! m>ket a ,new ,con+ ,ma*9e4 ,! product ( ?is ma*9e has sev]al novel features :i* we believe w prove ( p>ticul> int]e/ to y ,univ]sal ,w9d+ ,company ,bo/on ,massa*usetts ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,transcrib]'s ,notes3 ,miss+ or obscur$ punctuation 0 correct$4 ,unbalanc$ quotation m>ks 7 left z ! au?or int5d$4 ,typographical errors 7 sil5tly correct$4 ,inconsi/5t spell+ & hyph5ation 7 made consi/5t only :5 a pr$om9ant =m 0 f\nd 9 ?is book4 ,text t 0 9 italics is enclos$ by und]scores 7italics72 text t 0 bold by 8equal0 signs 7bold74