,,flat ,,machine ,,knitting ,,and ,,fabrics ,by ,h4 ,d4 ,,buck ,in charge of ,knitting in ,the ,textile ,school of the ,city of ,new ,york ,author of articles on ,knitting in ,textile ,world ,new ,york ,,bragdon1 ,,lord ,,nagle ,,company1 ,,publishers #ccd ,fourth ,avenue ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,copyrighted1 #aiba ,,by ,h4 ,d4 ,,buck4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,to ,,my ,,wife ,,elizabeth ,,wilson ,,buck who has encouraged and assisted me1 this book is affectionately dedicated ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,preface ,when the ,city of ,new ,york established a textile school in #aiai ,i was asked to take charge of the class in knitting4 ,although very busy in manufacturing lines1 ,i decided to give up a part of my time to this educational work1 believing it to be my duty to do my bit toward helping to fill a long felt want in the industry4 ,there being no suitable text book available1 particularly on the elementary subjects1 ,i was obliged to prepare my own material for the instruction of the students4 ,the results of this work are contained in this volume1 which is devoted to the various types of flat latch needle machines4 ,it is my intention to follow this with other volumes covering circular latch needle machines1 spring needle machines1 etc41 with their products4 ,the various chapters of this work have been published in the knitting technical section of ,,textile ,,world but ,i believe their usefulness will be increased by this revision and publication in more convenient book form4 ,one of the greatest needs for the advancement of the knitting industry to the position it should occupy in the world of textiles is available technical information1 and it is hoped that this volume with the ones to follow will supply1 in some degree1 this need4 ,h4 ,d4 ,,buck4 ,woodhaven1 ,l4 ,i41 ,new ,york1 ,september #a1 #aiba4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,contents ,,chap4 ,,page ,i4 ,development of the ,industry ,how ,cloth is #i ,constructed--,study of ,loop4 ,,ii4 ,latch ,needle ,knitting ,making ,jersey #af ,cloth on the ,lamb ,type of ,machine4 ,,iii4 ,rib ,fabric ,group ,how ,stitch is ,made for #bf ,different ,cloths4 ,,iv4 ,the ,rack ,stitch ,making ,shaped #ce ,collars--,opportunities in ,designing ,fabrics4 ,v4 ,the ,double ,lock ,flat ,machine ,how #dd ,different ,stitches ,are ,formed4 ,,vi4 ,fashioned ,goods #ea ,,vii4 ,automatic ,flat ,latch ,needle ,machines #eg ,single ,lock4 ,,viii4 ,automatic ,widening ,machine ,explanation #gh of ,mechanism ,used4 ,,ix4 ,purl ,stitch1 or ,links and ,links ,machine #hf ,for ,hand or ,manual ,power4 ,x4 ,designs on ,plain ,purl ,stitch ,machines #ig ,automatic ,jacquard ,type--,details of ,jacquard-,designing on ,jacquard ,machine4 ,,xi4 ,flat ,latch ,needle ,automatic ,narrowing #aac ,machine ,,xii4 ,the ,flat ,jacquard ,machine ,how ,it ,differs #abi ,from the ,purl ,stitch ,jacquard ,machine--,type of ,fabric ,produced--,methods of ,needle ,selection--,difference ,between ,single ,jacquard and ,double ,jacquard--,explanation of ,design and ,pattern ,cards4 ,,index #adc ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,flat ,,machine ,,knitting ,,and ,,fabrics ,,chapter ,i ,,development ,,of ,,the ,,industry--,,how ,,cloth ,,is ,,constructed--,,study ,,of ,,loop ,,machine knitting is a much older industry than most people realize1 the first knitting machine having been invented in ,england about the year #aeij4 ,in spite of this early start the knitting industry has not made as great progress as some other lines of manufacturing4 ,the great obstacle to its progress1 in comparison with that of its rival1 the weaving industry1 appears to have been the slow realization by people in general1 and the producers of knitted goods in particular1 of the possibilities of the looped fabric and the diversified uses to which it is suited4 ,for #bej years or more after the invention of the knitting machine1 knitted fabrics were in a general way supposed to be fit only for hosiery4 ,then some enterprising knitter woke up to the fact that knitted fabric was the ideal fabric for underclothing to be worn next to the body1 and there was developed a great industry in knitted underwear4 ,in very recent years1 we have begun to realize that this fabric is suitable for outer garments of various kinds1 making up into beautiful1 comfortable and serviceable articles of apparel1 and the industry is surging ahead by leaps and bounds on this line4 ,the principal reasons for this are3 first1 the making of knit fabric does not require1 in its present state of development1 the technical skill required for the making of woven fabrics1 notwithstanding the fact that many people not connected with the industry look upon machine knitting as a most mysterious operation2 second1 the initial investment for a given production is not nearly so great as for woven fabrics2 third1 knitted fabrics can be produced1 yard for yard1 or pound for pound1 cheaper than woven fabrics4 ,knit ,fabric ,construction ,knitting is the art of constructing fabric or cloth with knitting needles by an interlocking of loops4 ,the essential element of knitting is the loop1 for the whole fabric is constructed from a succession of loops4 ,a loop is a very small length of thread1 or yarn1 taken at some point at a distance from the end and drawn through1 or around1 some object1 usually another loop4 ,obviously this will result in two loops4 ,one of these coils around the instrument or needle which draws it through and is called the needle loop1 shown by the letter a in ,fig4 #a4 ,the other loops around the object or previous loop through which it was drawn1 and is called the sinker loop1 indicated by b1 b in ,fig4 #a4 ,these two loops1 not two complete loops1 but rather one full needle loop and two halves of the sinker loop1 make a stitch1 as indicated by the shaded portion of ,fig4 #a from c to c4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,sinker ,loop1 ,needle ,loop and ,stitch4 ,a course is any number of loops lying side by side in a line crosswise of the fabric1 as indicated along dotted lines a1 a1 ,figs4 #b and #c4 ,a wale is any number of loops in a line succeeding one another lengthwise of the fabric1 as indicated along dotted lines b1 b1 ,figs4 #b and #c4 ,crosswise of the fabric is the direction in which the yarn feeds while the fabric is in the process of construction1 forming loops adjoining one another1 or the same direction as the course4 ,lengthwise of the fabric is the direction in which the fabric is built up by drawing one loop through another1 or the same direction as the wale4 ,therefore the width of the fabric is restricted by the number of loops or needles used as a base1 while the length of the fabric has no restrictions other than the supply of material or the will of the knitter4 ,rib is an alternative expression for wale1 but is applicable more particularly where the fabric has a wale on both sides1 in which case it is shown as a rib fabric4 ,where a cloth has a wale on one side only it is known as a jersey fabric1 and is also sometimes called flat goods4 ,rib fabrics will be taken up later for it is my purpose to deal only with jersey or flat fabrics until the theory of knitting is thoroughly explained4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,wale and ,course1 ,face4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,wale and ,course1 ,back4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a ,study of the ,loop ,a study of the loop is very important to those who wish to acquire a knowledge of knitting1 for the whole construction of the knitted fabric is from loops4 ,in fact1 knitted fabric is commonly referred to as looped fabric4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,fig4 #e4 ,fig4 #f4 ,formation of ,loops4 ,fig4 #d shows the position or form into which the yarn is drawn to form the loops of a plain jersey or flat fabric4 ,fig4 #e shows a second course of loops drawn through the first4 ,fig4 #f shows a third course4 ,it is quite evident that in order to draw each of these courses of loops through the preceding one there must be something to sustain or hold the preceding course of loops as well as the new loops during the period in which the new ones are being drawn through4 ,there must also be something on which to start the first row or course of loops for1 as stated before1 a loop cannot be made without something of stability to draw it through4 ,it is very important that the reader get firmly fixed in his mind the curves of the loops and the most simple methods of forming them1 as he can then more readily understand the necessary movements made on a machine4 ,for this reason ,i will first take up the most primitive method of knitting2 i4e41 hand knitting4 ,simplest ,method of ,forming ,loops ,the needles used for hand knitting are straight rods of steel1 wood1 bone or celluloid4 ,not less than two of these needles must be used as indicated in ,figs4 #g1 #h and #i4 ,to start we take the yarn and make a small slip knot or noose1 with which we are all familiar1 slip one needle through the loop thus made and draw the yarn up so that it fits around the needle loosely4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,forming ,loops by ,hand1 ,first ,step4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,forming ,loops by ,hand1 ,second ,step4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,forming ,loops by ,hand1 ,completed4 ,we now have the cornerstone laid4 ,holding this needle in the left hand with the fore-finger bearing lightly on the loop1 we take the other needle in the right hand and slip it through the loop as in ,fig4 #g1 next draw the yarn over the end of the right hand needle as shown1 then draw this needle back to the point where it will pass the left side of the loop on the right hand needle1 but not far enough to allow the yarn that was placed over the end to drop off4 ,then we draw this yarn through as indicated in ,fig4 #h1 and we will have the second loop4 ,at this point in the building up of the fabric we would slip the previous loop off the left hand needle and let it hang on the newly formed loop on the right hand needle1 as in ,fig4 #i1 but as we are not as yet building1 but only laying the foundation1 we slip this new loop back on the left hand needle1 where we now have two loops4 ,the next step is to take the right hand needle1 slip it through the second loop1 and proceed as with the first1 then slip the third loop back on the left hand needle4 ,this procedure is repeated until there are sufficient loops to make the fabric the width wanted4 ,we now have our foundation on which to build4 ,figs1 #g1 #h and #i give a very clear illustration of the method of building up the knit fabric by hand knitting after the first course4 ,it should be noted1 however1 that after the right hand needle has completed the new course1 and the last loop has been dropped off the left hand needle1 the right hand needle with its full number of loops is shifted to the left hand and the empty needle then becomes the working needle in the right hand4 ,this first course of stitches1 it should be noted1 has the needle loop only1 the sinker loop being tied in to form a base or edge from which to start4 ,fig4 #g shows the first position to form the loops with two needles4 ,one full course is on the needle lettered a1 while needle b is thrust through the first loop of the last course and receiving yarn to draw through a new loop4 ,fig4 #h shows the new loop drawn through1 while ,fig4 #i shows the old or preceding loop cast off from needle a and hanging from the new loop on needle b4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,crochet ,stitch1 ,catching ,thread4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,crochet ,stitch1 ,drawing ,stitch4 ,figs4 #aj and #aa show the crochet stitch1 which is taken up at this point to show its similarity to the knitted loop and to explain the points of difference4 ,the illustrations show very plainly the method of forming crochet loops and they also show that this stitch is simply a single chain or wale of loops succeeding one another4 ,when crochet work is to be made into a fabric1 the hooked needle is pushed through the side of another loop at the point at which it is to be joined1 and the new loop is drawn through this old loop as well as the one on the needle4 ,there is never more than one loop used at a time in making this work4 ,illustration3 ,back - ,fig4 #ab4 ,face - ,fig4 #ac4 ,jersey ,fabric4 ,in the knitted fabric the loops are laid side by side and there are a sufficient number of loops being used at all times to make the width of fabric desired4 ,the wales are bound together by the yarn passing from one loop to the next adjoining one1 thereby forming the sinker loops which have already been explained4 ,figs4 #ab and #ac are photographic reproductions of a piece of closely knitted jersey or flat goods4 ,the stitch formation in this cloth is exactly the same as shown in the line drawings at ,figs4 #b and #c4 ,it may be well to state here in passing1 that all textile fibres have more or less flexibility or resiliency1 and while this characteristic is infinitely small in any single fibre or hair1 it is quite appreciable when there are hundreds of fibres grouped together and twisted into a yarn4 ,this is the reason for the elasticity or stretch in knitted fabrics4 ,it will be noticed in ,fig4 #b that in forming the loops the curvature or bend of the thread is gradual and uniform4 ,when this yarn is knitted into fabric and both top or needle loop1 and bottom or sinker loop are attached to or drawn through other and like loops1 and we pull or stretch the fabric1 we draw sharp curves or corners in the yarn where it passes around the preceding and succeeding loops4 ,when we let go or take the strain off the fabric1 the natural tendency of the fibre to straighten out or take an easier curve brings the fabric back into its original position4 ,i would suggest that the reader take any straight piece of yarn1 worsted if available1 form a loop1 and hold it between the thumb and finger of one hand1 then press the loop together with the thumb and finger of the other hand and demonstrate for himself this characteristic of textile fibres4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,ii ,,latch ,,needle ,,knitting--,,making ,,jersey ,,cloth ,,on ,,the ,,lamb ,,type ,,of ,,machine ,,although what is known as the spring beard needle was a part of the original invention of the knitting machine1 and was in use more than #bjj years before the latch needle was invented1 ,i am taking up the latch needle machine first for two reasons4 ,first1 because the latch needle type of machine is most largely used and is more popular in this country today than any other type2 and second1 because ,i believe it can be more easily understood by a person who is not familiar with machine knitting4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,latch ,needles4 ,in machine knitting of every kind there must be a needle for every loop1 and therein lies the fundamental difference between machine and hand knitting4 ,latch needles1 however1 are constructed entirely different from the straight plain hand needles4 ,fig4 #ad shows the construction of the latch needle4 ,it will be noted by looking at the latches on the three needles that they swing freely on a pin or rivet lengthwise of the needle1 but have no movement sidewise4 ,types of ,latch ,needle ,the hook1 latch1 rivet1 cheek1 throat and stem are substantially the same except in size in all latch needles1 but the balance of the needle may and does vary in shape to a marked degree in the various types and makes of machines4 ,fig4 #ae shows many of the different types of butts and shanks made1 as well as the variation in the sizes of the hooks and the thickness of the needles1 but it should be understood that the type of the butt and shank has no bearing on the size of the hook and stem1 as each type is made in the various sizes and is governed only by the size of the yarn to be used4 ,fig4 #af is a very important illustration and the reader should study it well and mentally digest every position of the needles1 for here is shown a complete cycle of the movements necessary to make the knitted loop on a latch needle machine of the type in which the needles slide back and forth1 lengthwise of the needle1 in what are called tricks1 or more commonly expressed1 slots4 ,probably #ie per cent4 or more of the latch needle machines in use today are of the type in which the needle slides back and forth in slots in the operation of forming the loops4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,some of the ,various ,types of ,latch ,needles4 ,explanation of ,lamb ,type ,machine ,a study of ,fig4 #af should be made in connection with the photographic reproductions1 ,figs4 #ag and #ah4 ,fig4 #ah shows substantially the whole knitting machine1 while ,fig4 #ag is a close-up view of that part of the machine which actually does the knitting4 ,fig4 #af shows the principle used to operate the needles4 ,this type of machine was invented in #ahfc by ,isaac ,w4 ,lamb1 a clergyman1 and was made possible only by the invention of the latch needle in ,england about #ahdg4 ,it is very simple in construction in the plain models and is the most versatile of all the knitting machines1 it being possible to make on it a larger variety of stitches and articles of apparel than on any other machine4 ,it is known as the flat or ,lamb type of machine4 ,it has two flat or straight horizontal plates or beds about one-half inch thick by #f inches wide1 the length of which varies from #f inches or less to #fj inches or more1 according to the width of fabric it is designed to make4 ,these plates are set in a frame1 parallel to each other lengthwise1 and at an angle of about #ij degrees to each other and #de degrees to the horizontal4 ,see ,figs4 #af1 #ag and #bj4 ,all flat machines of this type have two needle plates1 but for our purpose of knitting jersey fabric we need but one1 therefore we will imagine that there are two in ,fig4 #af but the back one having no needles in it cannot do any knitting4 ,the needles1 as will be noted in ,fig4 #af1 are placed in tricks or slots of which there may be any number from #b up to #ah in one inch1 according to the size of the yarn to be used4 ,the needles should fit in the slots close enough so that they will not have any chance to tip sidewise1 yet they must move easily endwise4 ,the gib c1 c1 is for holding the needles in the plate1 and of course is removed by drawing out endwise when a needle is to be put in or taken out of the plate4 ,the plate is secured in a frame indicated by the letter n in ,fig4 #af1 and the frame is attached to a stationary stand or table4 ,the cams a-#a1 a-#b and a-#c are attached to the carriage b1 b1 b1 b1 ,fig1 #ag1 at a point just below a-#a1 a-#b and a-#c and the carriage1 together with the cams1 rests and slides freely back and forth on the ways c1 c1 while the plate and needles remain stationary4 ,the cams are secured to the carriage in a position so that they come very close to the needle plates4 ,they should be set as close as possible and not rub the plate as they are moved back and forth4 ,it may be well to explain here that a cam in any machine is a piece of hardened steel of the proper shape and construction to cause some other part of the machine to make the proper movements to perform its functions4 ,in this instance they actuate the needles by coming in contact with the butts4 ,it will be noted that each one of the needles from e to e1 ,fig4 #af1 has a loop in the hook except from the point where they are rising over the cam a-#c1 and on these the loops rest on the shank4 ,it should be understood that the fabric back of the needle plate has a weight on it1 thereby giving to each loop a downward pull4 ,the fabric and weights may be seen in ,fig4 #ah4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,principle ,used to ,form ,loops on a ,machine4 ,now bear in mind that the cams a-#a1 a-#b and a-#c1 ,fig4 #af1 are attached to the carriage b1 b1 b1 b1 ,fig4 #ag1 at points underneath a-#a1 a-#b and a-#c4 ,these cams are moving from right to left and as the lower left hand corner of a-#c is below the line of the butts of the needles from e to e1 they1 the needles1 must of necessity slide upward in the slots along the edge of this cam4 ,when they get to the top it will be noted that the latches of the needles are above and clear of the loops4 ,as the cams move farther along1 the cam a-#b comes in contact with the butts and slides them down again4 ,as the needles move downward the hooks catch the thread i which lies in their path1 and as at l the stitch that is on the needle closes the latch as the needle slides downward4 ,as the needle moves farther down the hook draws a new loop through the old one1 while the latch closing up the hook allows the old loop to slip over the end 7needle m71 and the pull of the fabric draws it down on to the new loop4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,top ,side of ,carriage1 ,over ,cams4 ,the thin portions of the needle plate indicated by the letter h in ,fig4 #af1 which extend upwards1 are called jacks and these hold that part of the stitch called sinker loops while the needle is drawing through the new needle loop4 ,below each needle is a ,u-shaped spring1 j1 j1 and k1 k1 ,fig4 #af1 which holds the needles up in the working position4 ,they extend down to and around the bottom of the plate and up against the under side of the plate4 ,the end that is under the plate is a little longer than the end that slides up in the slot below the needle4 ,these ,u-springs are made so that before they are put in their places on the plate1 the ends come together1 so when they are spread and pushed on to the plate they act as a clamp to hold the needles in position4 ,they are not attached to the needles1 but simply clamp the plate with tension enough to hold them up or down1 as the case may be1 and the bottom end of the needles rests on them4 ,this construction leaves the knitter in a position to pull d own out of working position as many needles as he may wish1 therefore he may make his fabric any desired width by pulling needles down out of the working line or pushing them up into the working line1 thereby adding to or taking away stitches4 ,the letter d in ,fig4 #ag designates the yarn carrier through which the yarn passes1 and which guides the yarn along the path of the hooks of the needles4 ,after having moved the carriage clear across the working needles1 and finishing a course of loops1 the carriage is moved back in the opposite direction and another course is put on4 ,this is done in exactly the same way except that the cams must necessarily push or slide the needles up and down on the opposite sides of the cams3 i4e41 the butts slide up on the right hand side of the ,v-cam or cam a-#c in ,fig4 #af and down the right hand side of cam a-#a1 or stitch cam4 ,this operation is continued until the fabric is of the desired length4 ,needles are operated at a rate of speed that would make #ejj or more stitches per minute per needle if the machine would keep them in continuous operation1 but in practical work they make from #ej to #bjj stitches per minute according to the size of the machine as more time is consumed as a rule in the movements of the machine between the stitches than is used in the actual knitting operation4 ,on account of this speed of operation the latches of the needles must be under control at all points in the cycle of knitting2 that is1 from f to g in ,fig4 #af4 ,control of ,latches ,it will be noted that needle o in ,fig4 #af has just started to rise and the stitch that was in the hook has opened the latch and still has it under control4 ,when this needle gets up to the position of needle p it has passed the point where the stitch can control the latch1 therefore1 other means must be provided or it would be very liable to fly up and close the hook1 in which case it would be impossible for the hook to catch the yarn for the next stitch4 ,when this happens we have what is called a drop stitch1 and after the yarn had passed there would be no stitch on the needle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,flat ,latch ,needle ,machine4 ,to provide against this there is used in this type of machine a long narrow thin bristle brush set over the needles and at the proper angle and distance to just clear the latches4 ,this brush is shown in ,fig4 #ai4 ,the letter a indicates the brush alone1 and at b is shown the brush in the fixture which carries it4 ,the letter c indicates the brush carrier4 ,fig4 #bj is a view looking down from above the machine and shows the brushes1 a and b1 set ready to operate in the machine4 ,so as not to confuse the reader ,i will say here that all previous illustrations presenting this part of the machine have shown it with the brushes removed in order to make clear the operation of the needles4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,latch ,brushes4 ,one ,mounted in its ,holding ,clamp1 or ,fixture4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,tubular ,fabric ,made on a ,flat ,machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,position of ,latch ,brushes ,when on the ,machine4 ,a fabric made according to the foregoing explanations would be what is known as a jersey fabric 7see ,figs4 #ab and #ac71 but it would be a flat piece of fabric when finished4 ,perhaps to make it plainer ,i should say that if the fabric were laid out on a table it would be a single thickness1 and if it were to be made into a garment it would be necessary to double it over and sew the edges together to make it tubular1 or in the form of a bag4 ,if we wish to make the fabric tubular on the machine to save the labor of seaming it1 and also prevent the unsightly seam1 it would be necessary to use the needles in both plates1 front and back4 ,the cams would then be set by means provided1 which will be explained later1 so that when the carriage is moved in one direction1 say from left to right1 the front cams will operate the front needles and the back cams will be put out of operation2 and when the carriage is moved from right to left1 the back cams will operate the back needles and the front cams will be put out of work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,jersey ,fabric ,made on a ,machine ,with #bd ,needles to ,one ,inch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,jersey ,fabric ,made on a ,machine ,with #b ,needles to ,one ,inch4 ,by continuing the operation of the machine in this manner of having only the front cams operate while moving the carriage in one direction1 and only the back cams operate when the carriage is moved in the opposite direction1 there would be produced a tubular fabric as shown in ,fig4 #ba4 ,the yarn must of a necessity go across from front needles to back ones1 and from back ones to front ones each time the direction of the movement of the carriage is changed1 thereby closing up both sides of the fabric4 ,range of ,jersey ,fabric ,the jersey type of fabric is very popular with the consuming public and is used for quite a wide range of garments in many different weights and materials4 ,milady may easily be dressed throughout1 with the exception of shoes1 in jersey cloth1 and still be up to the minute with her clothes4 ,she may have on silk stockings which are made with the jersey stitch4 ,her underwear1 most surely is made of silk jersey fabric4 ,then she may wear a tricolet waist1 which is silk jersey fabric1 with a worsted jersey cloth suit4 ,also she might easily have her fall and winter coat made from the heavyweight fulled jersey cloth1 and carry a heavy ,shaker sweater1 which is also the jersey stitch1 on her motor trips into the country4 ,it is a far cry from the finest and lightest to the heaviest and coarsest in jersey cloth4 ,figs4 #bb and #bc show two extremes4 ,fig4 #bb is a sample of fine fabric and has #cb stitches to one inch2 while ,fig4 #bc is used for what is known as the ,shaker sweater and has #c stitches to one inch4 ,between these come men's balbriggan underwear and the flat woolen underwear1 the jersey bathing suits1 tricolet1 and the fulled jersey cloth for ladies' suits and coats1 etc4 ,this stitch is also the basic one for medium priced knit neckties1 as well as knit mittens and gloves1 except the very lightest and thinnest4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,iii ,,rib ,,fabric ,,group--,,how ,,stitch ,,is ,,made ,,for ,,different ,,cloths ,,there are numerous conflicting expressions or terms used in the knit goods industry1 and one of the most common of these is the term 8flat goods40 ,in the older underwear sections1 where the circular machine was used exclusively and the flat machine was practically unknown1 the term flat goods indicated underwear fabric made tubular in the jersey stitch on circular spring needle machines1 as distinguished from tubular rib fabric made on latch needle machines4 ,at present1 in the localities where mills are using both the circular and flat straight needle bed machines1 it is generally understood that a flat fabric is a fabric of single thickness made on a flat machine1 regardless of the stitch1 and any fabric made on a circular machine is known as a tubular fabric4 ,if the stitch should be specified it is mentioned separately4 ,this latter custom appears to me to be the more logical2 therefore1 when these terms are used hereafter in this work it should be understood that flat fabric means cloth of a single thickness made on a flat machine1 or a tubular fabric cut open so it will lie out flat4 ,the 8flat goods0 of the old time knitters will be called jersey cloth or fabric4 ,we will now leave the jersey fabrics for a time1 as the making of the tuck stitch and plated work in the jersey stitch are more or less complicated and had better be left until we take up fancy stitches and designs on circular latch needle machines4 ,the tuck stitch is never used in the jersey fabrics on flat machines4 ,rib ,fabrics ,a rib fabric is one which has a rib or wale on both sides of the cloth4 ,it has much more stretch or elasticity than cloth of the jersey group2 about twice as much1 generally speaking4 ,the elasticity of either one1 however1 may be varied to a marked degree by changing the length of loop drawn4 ,rib fabric is peculiarly adapted for such garments or parts of garments as should be close fitting1 such as ladies' undergarments1 cuffs for all kinds of knitted garments1 tops of half hose1 etc4 ,fig4 #bd shows very clearly the course the yarn takes to form this stitch4 ,it would be well to study this drawing in connection with ,figs4 #b and #c and note carefully the different course the yarn takes in order to form a wale on both sides of the fabric4 ,a photographic reproduction of a plain rib fabric showing both sides is given at a1 a1 in ,fig4 #be4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,construction of a ,plain ,rib ,fabric4 ,a properly constructed plain #a and #a rib fabric1 such as is shown in ,fig4 #bd1 should be alike on both sides4 ,very often this is not the case4 ,a little carelessness on the part of the adjuster in not drawing the stitch the same length on both sides will make a difference on the flat machines1 while it is impossible to make them the same on an ordinary circular machine on account of the principles of construction of this machine4 ,fig4 #bf is a view of a flat machine making the rib stitch1 looking down from above4 ,it almost fully explains the method of making this stitch to those who have carefully read and understand the principles of making the jersey stitch4 ,in this illustration the carriage is moving from right to left1 and both front and back cams are in operation1 therefore both front and back needles are working4 ,it should be noted that the back plate is set so that the needles of that plate come up at a point in the middle of the spaces between the needles of the front plate4 ,the cams1 front and back1 being made exactly alike and set exactly opposite one another1 must push the needles of both plates up at the same time and draw them down at the same time4 ,when we feed the yarn1 indicated by the letter a in ,fig4 #bf1 down through the guide1 b1 it is drawn into loops from both sides alternately1 as shown at c1 by the opposite sets of needles1 thereby making stitches1 or ribs1 or wales1 on both sides of the fabric4 ,this is the plain #a and #a rib stitch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,face and ,back of ,fabric2 a1 a1 ,plain ,rib2 b1 c1 ,half ,cardigan2 d1 d1 ,full ,cardigan4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,flat ,knitting ,machine ,making the ,rib ,stitch4 ,varieties of ,rib ,this stitch1 by distortion1 or by manipulation of the yarns or needles1 or by a combination of two or all three of these things1 can produce a number of fabrics different both in appearance and feel4 ,to enumerate the principal ones1 there are the half cardigan or tuck stitch1 also sometimes called royal rib2 the full cardigan1 and the rack stitch with the rack on one side of the fabric and the double rack which shows the rack on both sides of the fabric4 ,then there is the zig-zag stitch1 which is quite simple to make but is quite a puzzle to those not familiar with it4 ,there is also the cotton back1 which is a well known and popular fabric in the sweater trade4 ,then there are many varieties of ribs made either in plain or in combination with one or more of the above by taking needles out of the machine at predetermined places1 or by the ,jacquard system of selecting needles4 ,there is also the system of making designs by the cut pressers and pattern wheels1 which is used on circular machines only4 ,half ,cardigan or ,tuck ,stitch ,the half cardigan or tuck stitch is used more than any other of the ribbed group1 though it is generally used in combination with the plain rib4 ,the body and sleeves of the ordinary rib sweater1 and much of the rib underwear produced1 are made in this stitch while the cuffs are plain rib4 ,the reason for this is that the half cardigan rib will knit up considerably wider1 with the same number of needles1 than the plain rib1 therefore it is possible to make a shaped garment without cutting and sewing up again4 ,also the plain rib comes out lighter and thinner so makes a more desirable cuff for sweaters and underwear4 ,it also has more life or spring to it1 which is another desirable feature4 ,the half cardigan or tuck stitch is the one that is almost invariably used in making the well known cotton back sweaters4 ,it is believed by many people who are familiar with this fabric that the back stitch of cotton does not come through on the face1 but in this they are mistaken4 ,the face stitch does not go through on the back1 but the back yarn does go through on the face4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,construction of a ,half ,cardigan ,rib ,fabric4 ,fig4 #bg is a line drawing showing the course the yarn takes in making this stitch and a careful examination of it will demonstrate to the reader that this is the case4 ,the dotted line e1 e1 indicates the wale on the face and f1 f1 shows the wale on the back4 ,it will be noted that the back stitches of yarn come through to the face of the fabric and connect the preceding and succeeding stitches1 c1 c1 the same as in the plain rib1 but there is this difference1 in the plain rib these face stitches are1 or should be1 just the same length1 while in the half cardigan1 on account of the back stitch of this course holding over for one course1 it necessarily draws a longer stitch in the back and the yarn for this long stitch must come from the face stitch1 thereby making this face stitch very short4 ,in the drawing the stitches are not proportioned just as they lie in the actual fabric1 for if they were it would be very difficult to trace their course4 ,in the fabric the stitches b1 b are so short that they are almost completely covered by the large1 full1 round stitches1 c1 c1 c4 ,these stitches are full and large from the fact that where they go through to the back they do not form a loop but simply cross over the back loop as at d1 without being drawn through4 ,these are completely covered by the loops a1 a1 in the back wale4 ,how the ,half ,cardigan or ,tuck ,stitch ,is ,made ,the diagram at ,fig4 #bh shows the method used to make the half cardigan or tuck stitch on a flat machine4 ,the cams shown are what are known as the ,lamb system and are called the automatic cardigan or drop locks4 ,the word 8locks10 as applied to the flat knitting machine1 means a full set of cams attached to the cam plates ready to affix to the carriage4 ,there are a number of different systems of constructing these locks1 but the one selected is the most simple of all and for this reason is used for illustration first4 ,the others will be taken up at the proper place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,automatic ,locks for ,making ,half or ,full ,cardigan ,fabrics4 ,in ,fig4 #bh only a part of the needle plates are shown4 ,they are attached to a frame at an angle of #ij to each other and #de to the horizontal as explained before4 ,the cams are shown in working position with the carriage 7to which they are attached when in use7 removed4 ,as indicated by the thread h1 they are being moved toward the far end4 ,it should be noted that the automatic drop ,v-cams a1 a1 are in different positions4 ,these cams are made so that they swing freely on the pivots b1 b1 and the swing is inside of the limits of the positions of the two cams in the drawing4 ,it is controlled by pins on the top side of the swinging ends1 the pins coming through a slot of the proper length in the cam plate to stop them at the right place4 ,when starting to move these locks from the near end toward the far end1 the cam a1 on the left1 might be in any position within the limits of the before mentioned slot in the cam plate1 but the instant it comes in contact with the butts of the needles it is automatically forced to the position shown4 ,in making the half cardigan stitch the right hand cam is held up to the top1 as shown1 at all times by means provided4 ,this position forces the needles high enough so that the latches are above and clear of the loop that is on the needle1 therefore when the needles are drawn down again by the cam f1 they draw new loops and cast the old ones off over the latch and hook1 and they drop down on the new loop1 just as explained in describing how to make the plain rib4 ,this refers only to the needles in the right plate4 ,the cam a1 on the left side1 however1 having been swung down to its lowest position by contact with the needle butts1 raises the needles only about one-half of the normal distance4 ,or to put it differently1 the needles raise high enough to open the latches and catch the yarn when being drawn down again1 but not high enough to permit the loop that is on the needle to slide down below the latch4 ,therefore1 after the completion of the course we have the right side with the new loop drawn through the old one as in plain rib1 but the left side still retains the old or previous loop and also the new one as at j4 ,this leaves two loops on every needle on the left side and one on the right when the course is completed4 ,on the return course1 from the far end to the near end1 when the point i of the left cam1 a1 comes in contact with the first needle it must swing up in the same position as the right cam1 a1 therefore all the needles will draw the new loop through the two preceding ones and clear themselves1 leaving only one loop on each needle as in the plain rib4 ,on the next course1 from the near end to the far end1 the left hand needles again hold the old loop and take on a new one as just explained1 while the right hand needles cast off the old ones and hold only the new ones4 ,to condense the operation into a few words let us say that the left hand needles always must hold the two stitches while moving in one direction1 and clear them off and hold only one on the return course2 while the right hand needles always cast off the old stitch and hold the new ones only4 ,the right hand needles would make the face side of the fabric4 ,the writer has made a special effort to explain the formation of this particular stitch1 and the reader should make the same effort to get this formation clear in his mind1 for this stitch is the base of almost all of the fancy stitches or design work which will be taken up later4 ,the system used in design work is of course entirely different from the one just described1 being what might be called a selective system1 that is1 a method whereby the designer may select the proper needles at the proper time and place to make the tuck stitches block out the design wanted4 ,fig4 #be1 at band c1 shows the tuck or half cardigan stitch2 b is the face and c is the back4 ,if studied carefully the reader will notice that the face side1 b1 has a full round stitch1 while c1 or the back of the fabric1 has a small narrow stitch4 ,the ,full ,cardigan ,stitch ,the full cardigan stitch is not nearly so generally used as the half cardigan and plain rib stitches4 ,it is seldom if ever used in making underwear or any fine fabrics4 ,when it is made it is usually used for sweater fabrics or other novelty wearing apparel of this character4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,construction of a ,full ,cardigan ,fabric4 ,a line drawing of the full cardigan stitch is shown in ,fig4 #bi4 ,this stitch1 as its name would indicate1 is made in the same way as the half cardigan only the stitches are held alternately on both rows of needles on alternate courses4 ,referring again to ,fig4 #bh1 in making the full cardigan stitch the cams would operate exactly the same while moving toward the far end as shown and explained for the half cardigan4 ,but the means provided to hold the right hand cam1 a1 at the top position would have been removed1 so that on the return from the far to the near end this cam would be thrown down to the same position as the left hand cam1 a1 is shown1 while this left hand cam would be forced up into the position in which the right hand cam is now shown4 ,in other words1 the stitch would be the same with the carriage or cams moving in either direction1 only it would alternate on each course from one row of needles to the other4 ,we will refer back to ,fig4 #be1 which shows both sides of a piece of fabric with the three stitches we have just discussed in one piece4 ,this shows quite plainly the individual characteristics of each4 ,all have the same number of needles or wales1 the same yarn was used1 on the same machine2 yet how different the results6 ,the most marked difference is in the width4 ,there is proportionately the same difference in the thickness1 but this cannot very well be shown4 ,it should be observed that the stitch or loops of the plain rib a1 a1 and the full cardigan d1 d1 are the same on both sides of the fabric1 while the stitches in the half cardigan1 b and c1 are not4 ,it will be noted also that the stitch of the plain rib is much smaller than that of the two cardigans1 also that the wales or ribs hug very close together in the plain rib1 while they are separated more or less in the cardigans4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,iv ,,the ,,rack ,,stitch--,,making ,,shaped ,,collars--,,opportunities ,,in ,,designing ,,fabrics ,,the rack stitch is used on many sweaters for a border on the bottom1 also for a narrow strip on both sides of the shoulder seam1 and a strip at the place the stitch changes from half cardigan to plain for the cuff4 ,many sweaters have the collar and the border down the front made separately in the rack stitch and sewed on4 ,most of the designs in the knitted neckties made on flat machines are based on the rack stitch4 ,another very important use for this stitch is in making a smooth sightly edge on the bottom of sweaters1 the ends of cuffs1 etc4 ,the rack stitch is always made on one of the cardigans4 ,from this statement the reader will realize that this stitch is not made in place of the half or full cardigan1 or any other stitch but is an addition to1 or a further development of these stitches4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4 ,half ,cardigan ,stitch ,ready to ,rack4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,stitch ,after ,plate ,has ,been ,racked ,over ,one ,needle4 ,fig4 #cj shows a half cardigan stitch ready to rack1 as it is customary to make the one needle rack on this stitch4 ,it should be noticed that the racking is done on the course that holds1 or does not cast the previous stitch off on one side4 ,fig4 #ca shows the stitch after the plate has been racked over one needle4 ,this illustration practically explains the whole principle of the rack stitch4 ,the rack will show on the side that casts the stitches off the needles4 ,it is customary to hold the stitch or tuck on the back plate1 therefore the rack shows on the front side of the fabric1 or the side toward the operator of the machine4 ,operation of ,racking ,it is understood1 of course1 that on a flat machine there must always be an end needle on one plate or the other4 ,usually the knitter sets up his machine with one plate carrying the end needle on one side of the work and the other plate carrying the other end needle4 ,which end of the respective plates carries this needle depends on the position of the racking cam4 ,in the illustration1 ,fig4 #cj1 the front plate has the end needle on the right and back plate has the end needle on the left4 ,after racking as in ,fig4 #ca1 these positions are reversed4 ,it will be noted that the front plate has been racked or moved over one needle so the front needles will come up through and operate between the next two needles to the left of their previous positions4 ,or to explain it in a different way1 in ,fig4 #cj1 before racking1 the front plate has the end needle on the right and operates outside of the last needle in the back plate1 but after racking1 as in ,fig4 #ca1 this end needle on the front plate has been shifted over so it comes up inside the last needle in the back plate4 ,after racking over one needle there must be one full round or two courses put on before racking again2 that is while racking on the half cardigan stitch1 and then the plate is racked back to the first position4 ,this operation of racking first one way and then the other with a round between each rack is continued until the necessary number of racks are finished and then the operator proceeds with the plain half cardigan4 ,this procedure would make a plain rack on one side of the fabric only4 ,we have assumed in this explanation that the back is stationary and the front plate is the one that moves1 but ,i wish to have it understood here that it makes no difference which plate is stationary and which one racks or is movable2 the results are the same4 ,some writers use the words shog or shogged in place of rack or racked1 but the writer of this work has avoided the use of these words as they are seldom or never used by the practical knitter1 at least not in this country4 ,the ,racking ,mechanism ,in most of the modern flat machines the plate that racks has enough end clearance to rack over at least two needles1 and some of them as many as four1 though racking two needles is sufficient for all ordinary work4 ,fig4 #cb shows the method of racking or moving the plate to make the rack stitch1 or at least this is the principle used as a rule on the imported machines1 with some modifications by some makers4 ,this also applies to the method shown of attaching the plates to the frame4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,the ,racking ,cam1 ,ratchet and ,studs4 ,there is a large flat bottom hole1 c1 bored about half way through the plate2 through the bottom of this hole there is made an elongated hole1 b1 through which the plate is attached to the frame by the shouldered screw1 a1 the head of which is flush with the top of the plate4 ,it will readily be seen that with this method the plate cannot be moved in any direction except lengthwise of the plate1 or crosswise of the needles4 ,to secure this movement at will there is a steel strap1 d1 attached to the under side of the plate by the screws j and k1 and through the outside end of this strap there are two elongated holes through which are attached two shouldered studs with nuts e and f4 ,these studs extend down on both sides of the steps of the racking cam1 g1 and together with the plate are moved back and forth by the steps on the racking cam4 ,the cam is moved by the handle1 i1 in the hand machines1 or by the ratchet1 h1 being operated by pawls or dogs in power machines4 ,the letter h shows a front elevation of the ratchet1 while i is a side view4 ,it will be noted that there are only three teeth on each side1 and these two groups are opposed one to the other4 ,if the reader will examine the racking cam1 g1 with due thought the reason for this will be obvious4 ,there are three steps on the cam and the cam must have an oscillating movement and not a rotary one4 ,the ratchet1 h1 and the racking cam1 g1 are both attached securely to one hub1 therefore must move together on a stud which projects from the end of the frame4 ,the plate as illustrated in ,fig4 #cb1 sets at the limit of its movement to the left1 consequently any racking that is to be done must move the plate to the right1 therefore the pawl at the top of the ratchet would engage the uppermost tooth1 q1 and turning the ratchet one tooth would move the racking cam one step1 thus moving the plate over one needle through its contact with the studs1 e and f4 ,there are two pawls1 upper and lower1 arranged to engage the teeth on the ratchet either at the top or the bottom as required4 ,if we wanted a one-needle rack only1 after putting on one round of stitches we would have the lower pawl engage the tooth1 n1 of the ratchet and move the racking cam back to its first position4 ,if1 however1 we wanted a two-needle rack1 the upper pawl would engage the second tooth1 o1 of the ratchet4 ,for three racks it would then engage the next tooth1 m1 after which it would be necessary to start on the return to the first position1 remembering to put on one course or one round1 as the case may be1 of stitches between each rack4 ,if racking on the half cardigan stitch there should be one full round between the racks1 but if on the full cardigan the racking may be done every half round or every course1 as will be explained hereafter4 ,fig4 #cc is a photographic reproduction of a piece of fabric1 face and back1 of a one-needle rack which shows on one side of the fabric only4 ,a fabric with the two-needle rack which would show on both sides of the fabric is not illustrated1 for it would be the same on both sides as the face side of ,fig4 #cc4 ,a line drawing of the rack stitch is shown at ,fig4 #cd4 ,this is drawn out of proportion and is very loose and not like the fabric1 but by making it this way the direction the yarn takes may be easily located4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,face and ,back of ,one-,needle ,rack4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,position of ,stitch ,after ,racking4 ,the ,zig-,zag ,stitch ,fig4 #ce is an example of a fabric that may be made with a one-needle rack4 ,it is called the zig-zag stitch4 ,to make this the machine should be set to make the full cardigan stitch4 ,after setting up the machine and putting on one round1 the needle plate is racked over one needle1 put on a course or half round and rack back one needle4 ,continue this racking back and forth on each course for five rounds1 then skip one rack or put on one full round without racking and continue as before4 ,repeat this operation of racking every course for five rounds and then skip one rack and we have a zig-zag stitch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,zig-,zag ,stitch4 ,the points come where the rack is skipped1 or in other words the direction of the diagonal stitch will continue in the same direction as long as the needle plate is racked every course without skipping1 but immediately one rack is missed the stitch starts diagonally in the other direction4 ,it is obvious from the foregoing explanation that the knitter is not obliged to use any set number of courses between the change1 but may use any number at his discretion to get the distance desired between the points4 99 99 99 99 99 ,shaped ,collar for ,sweaters ,the peculiar characteristic of this stitch is utilized in making a shaped collar for sweaters1 as shown in ,figs4 #ch and #ci4 ,first let the reader remember that the direction the diagonal stitch takes all depends on which end of the machine the carriage is at when the racking operation begins4 ,it should be understood that the collars are made in a long string and the three parts1 as shown in ,fig4 #ch1 are duplicated one after another4 ,on either end1 where this piece has been cut off1 there was a duplicate of the plain racked piece shown at the middle1 and at the end of these there was another diagonal piece1 and so on from the beginning to the end4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,shaped ,collar for ,sweaters as ,knit4 ,it should be clear to the reader that if the piece shown 7,fig4 #ch7 were cut through on the broken lines we would have one complete collar and we would have left the diagonal stitch that belongs on one end of each of the two adjoining center pieces1 therefore by cutting all the collars apart at the point indicated by the line we would have our collars shaped without any waste and would have a selvage or finished edge on the outside4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,shaped ,collar ,folded4 ,the collar is stitched or sewed on the neck opening of the sweater along the cut edge and across the bottom of the racked center piece1 and after it is finished and the sweater coat buttoned up it folds over and looks as shown in ,fig4 #ci4 ,as stated before this collar can be made on a machine that racks over only one needle1 but in that case the center piece would be racked on one side only1 therefore it is customary to make these collars on a two needle rack machine with the middle portion racked on both sides as will be noted in ,fig4 #ci4 ,making a rack on both sides of the fabric is very much like making the diagonal stitch in the operation of the machine1 even though the resultant fabric is so radically different4 ,it should be made with a full cardigan stitch same as the zig-zag or diagonal1 and the needle plate must be racked every course or half round1 but with this difference3 ,when making the diagonal stitch the needle plate is racked over one needle and back again1 while to rack both sides of the fabric the needle plate is racked over two needles4 ,this does not mean that the knitter should rack over two needles at once1 for this should never be done1 but rack over one needle1 let us say to the right1 then put on one course and rack over the second needle to the right1 put on one course and rack one needle to the left1 put on one course and rack the second needle to the left4 ,or in other words1 rack alternately two needles to the right and left and put on one course or half round each time the needle plate is racked one needle4 ,there is one other point that should be remembered in making this collar and that is the manner of starting the diagonal stitch in the proper direction after finishing in the middle portion4 ,each time this part is finished the diagonal stitch should go in the opposite way from the previous time1 therefore when the one needle half round rack starts to make this stitch the first rack should be made with the carriage on the opposite side of the machine from which the previous one was started4 ,opportunity for ,varying ,designs ,fig4 #cg is an interesting example of what may be done with the two-needle rack4 ,designs of this character require the removal or pulling down out of operation of every other needle1 therefore a machine of any given cut1 or needles per inch1 would be in reality only half as fine as cut and would necessitate the use of a heavier or larger yarn4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,basket ,weave ,design ,made ,with the ,rack4 ,to make the fabric shown in ,fig4 #cg pull down or remove every other needle in the front plate4 ,then pull down or remove every other needle in the back plate for five needles1 then leave two needles together and remove every other needle for five more1 leave two needles together and continue as before until the full width of needles in working position are as follows3 ,every other needle down out of working position in the front plate1 and every other one down in groups of five with two needles together between these groups in the back plate4 ,we will find by this arrangement that when we rack the plate over one needle1 every second group of five needles in the back plate will rack across a needle of the front plate1 but the other groups will simply move between the needles in the front plate1 therefore will make a plain half cardigan stitch only1 while the other groups will make a rack stitch4 ,if this operation were continued in this way1 racking one needle only back and forth1 we would get a fabric with vertical stripes of alternating plain half cardigan and rack stitch4 ,but if we rack back and forth one needle each round for ten rounds1 then rack over the second needle and rack back and forth one needle in this position1 we will find that the groups of five needles that were racking in the first instance are now making the plain half cardigan stitch1 and the groups that were at first making the plain are now racking4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,designs ,made with ,rack ,stitch4 ,an ingenious knitter can make an almost unlimited number of designs of this character by different arrangements of his needles and a variation of the timing of his racks4 ,one thing which should be remembered is that all racking should be done on the course that tucks or holds two stitches when racking on the half cardigan4 ,on the full cardigan both courses are tucked1 therefore it does not matter which one is racked1 only the side of the fabric on which the rack shows is dependent upon which course the plate is racked4 ,the design shown in ,fig4 #cf at a is simply a zig-zag stitch with three needles taken out of the back plate at short intervals1 giving these places a piping effect4 ,the fabric at b is a plain one-needle rack with the piping made in the same manner4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,double ,,lock ,,flat ,,machine--,,how ,,different ,,stitches ,,are ,,formed ,our study of flat machines up to this point has dealt entirely with the class known as the single lock machines1 or those that have but one set or pair of locks to do the knitting4 ,there is another very popular type1 commonly known as the double-lock machine1 which is1 it might be said1 in a class by itself4 ,this machine1 as the name would indicate1 has two sets or pairs of locks mounted on the same carriage1 and set as closely together as they can be and work properly4 ,the double-lock machine has many advantages over the single-lock type1 the most important being that there can be made upon it a two-faced fabric1 that is1 a fabric with each side faced with a different yarn1 either in color1 quality or both4 ,the popular 8cotton back0 sweater is in this class4 ,in making this class of fabric it is essential that the two different yarns1 to show out on the two faces of the fabric1 go into the fabric in alternate courses4 ,therefore1 it is obvious that it would not be practical to make this fabric on a single lock machine1 for when a course was finished the second yarn would be on the opposite end of the machine from the locks and yarn carrier1 and it would be necessary to put on a full round1 or two courses1 in order to get back to that end to exchange yarn carriers4 ,the double-lock machine overcomes this difficulty by taking both yarn carriers across1 one following the other1 each on a pair of locks1 each time the carriage moves across the machine4 ,it is evident from this that every time the carriage is moved across the machine there are two courses put on the fabric1 instead of one as with the single-lock machine4 ,speed and ,production ,this point leads up to another advantage of the double-lock machine1 that is1 increased production on account of putting on two courses with each movement of the carriage across1 as against one course with the single-lock machine4 ,the production would not be twice as much1 as might be supposed at first thought1 for comparing two machines of the same size1 the single lock could be operated at a greater speed than the double lock1 but not approaching twice the speed4 ,the reason for this is that the locks of the double-lock machine must1 of course1 be practically twice the length of the locks of the single-lock machine1 and inasmuch as the locks must move far enough at each end to be clear of or past the needles1 it is quite obvious that the double-lock carriage must have a longer travel4 ,therefore1 it takes longer to complete one round of the carriage than the single-lock machine1 to maintain the same needle speed4 ,this brings us to another point that may as well be disposed of here1 and that is the speed of latch needle machines4 ,generally speaking1 the maximum speed of a latch needle machine1 either flat or circular1 is governed by the needle speed2 that is1 the speed at which the cams raise and lower the needles1 and the thread velocity1 which is of course dependent on the needle speed4 ,speed of ,flat ,machines ,as a general rule1 where the machine is in good condition and the yarn of fairly good quality1 a flat machine with a crank drive should be operated at from #ajj to #abe lineal feet per minute1 and a chain drive may be operated at from #abe to #aej lineal feet per minute4 ,the reason for this difference between the chain drive and the crank drive is that with the crank drive the movement of the carriage across the machine is not uniform throughout1 its movement being faster in the center than at either end1 therefore we must regulate our speed so it will not be too high at this point4 ,on the other hand1 the chain drive carries uniformly throughout the movement of the carriage except for two or three inches at the ends4 ,to explain what is meant by lineal feet per minute1 let us assume that we have a #bj-;inch machine1 that is1 there are #bj inches of needles4 ,in this case the carriage would have to travel about #cj inches on account of the locks having to clear the needles at both ends1 therefore a movement of the carriage across and back1 or one complete round1 would cover twice #cj inches or #fj inches1 or #e feet4 ,now if we intend to run this machine at a speed of #abj lineal feet per minute1 we would divide #abj feet by #e feet1 which would give us #bd rounds per minute1 the speed the machine should run4 ,i do not wish to be understood as giving this as a hard and fast rule for the speed of machines1 for there are many factors which enter into the operation of knitting machinery which might make it desirable to vary this speed4 ,some of these factors are the condition of the machine1 the experience of the operator1 the character of the yarn1 the class of fabric1 and sometimes the skill of the mechanic in charge of the machines4 ,going back to the two-faced fabric1 this must be made on one of the two cardigans4 ,the 8cotton backs0 are usually made on the half cardigan1 while the fabrics with two different colored faces are made on the full cardigan as a rule4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,dubied ,system of ,double ,locks4 ,fig4 #dj shows a type of double lock used in a ,dubied machine made in ,switzerland4 ,the reader will understand from what has gone before that this illustration shows the locks turned upside down1 that is1 if they were in operation on a machine they would be turned over with the cams close to the needle plates4 ,it will be noted that the fundamentals are the same as in the ,lamb system previously described1 but the method used to change from the plain rib to the full or half cardigan1 or vice versa1 is different4 ,in making a plain rib fabric the needle butts would follow the camway as in the ,lamb system1 that is1 if the carriage were being moved from left to right the needle butts would follow the course up with cams #a;a1 #a;b and #a;c below1 and #a1 #as1 #hs and #h above4 ,this explanation would of course apply to all four sets of cams4 ,the cams #a;b1 #b;b1 #c;b and #d;b have studs which project through the cam plate and there are means provided to draw any one or all of these cams back through the cam plate by these studs far enough so that the faces of the cams are flush with the cam plate1 and entirely out of operation4 ,the cams #a;c1 #b;c1 #c;c and #d;c are made to swing on the pivots1 aa1 and are held down on cams1 #a;a to #d;a1 in the position shown1 by springs4 ,it should be particularly noticed that the cams just mentioned1 #a;b to #d;b1 and #a;c to #d;c1 are exactly alike in the four sets of locks1 but their positions are reversed in the sets opposite4 ,they are placed in this way in order to facilitate the making of the cardigan stitches4 ,making ,half ,cardigan ,stitch ,in the study of what follows it should be remembered that the illustration at ,fig4 #dj shows the locks bottom up1 therefore in actual operation the lower set in the illustrations would be the back ones1 and the upper set the front ones4 ,in making the half cardigan stitch it is customary to have the tuck or holdover stitch on the back plate2 on the double-lock machine1 where we have two feeds1 it is on the back feed1 and the plain course is on the locks that are leading4 ,therefore1 to make a half cardigan stitch with these locks we would simply raise cams #b;b and #c;b up through the cam plate out of working position4 ,now remembering that the cams #b;c and #c;c are free to swing up and down on the pivots1 aa1 and are held down in their present position by a small spring1 it should be readily understood that in moving the carriage from1 let us say1 left to right1 the butts of the needles would follow up the right side of cam #b;a1 and on up over #b;c1 therefore would knit out on this course4 ,but when these butts came to the second set of locks they would move up the right side of cam #c;a until they came to the upper right hand corner of this cam1 and at this point1 on account of cam #c;b being up out of operation1 they would move across and raise up cam #c;c and pass under it4 ,cam #c;a not being high enough to raise the needles to the point where the stitch would drop off the latches1 obviously the needles must hold the two stitches on this side of these locks4 ,on the return of the carriage from right to left the operation of the needles would be reversed1 that is1 they would pass up over cam #c;c and knit out on the locks in the lead and pass under cam #b;c4 ,to sum up the whole operation in a few words1 to make a half cardigan stitch we must alternate with the plain rib course and a course that tucks or holds the previous stitch1 as well as the new one on one side4 ,this half cardigan is the stitch used in making what is known as the 8cotton back0 sweater and other such fabrics4 ,by having one yarn carrier threaded with cotton and one threaded with wool or worsted1 as the case may be1 and changing these carriers at the end of every course so as to keep the cotton always knitting at the cams that are leading or making the plain stitch1 the cotton alone will draw through on the back of the fabric while the worsted or wool will practically cover the face stitch of the cotton4 ,this exchange of the yarn carriers at the end of each course is done automatically by the machine1 therefore requires no attention by the operator4 ,full ,cardigan ,stitch ,to make the full cardigan stitch the procedure would be practically the same as explained on the single-lock machine1 as both pairs of these locks would be tucking or holding on one side 7opposite sides7 on one course1 and each would reverse itself on the return course4 ,the cams #a;b1 #b;b1 #c;b and #d;b would be lifted up out of operation4 ,when this is done the cams #a;c1 #b;c1 #c;c and #d;c would operate automatically to give us this result4 ,this is the stitch used as a rule to make the two-faced fabrics1 that is1 to make the two sides of different colors4 ,in connection with this explanation the question may arise as to why the half cardigan stitch is used in making a fabric with one side cotton and the other side wool or worsted1 and the full cardigan stitch used when making the two sides of different colors4 ,the answer to this is that the half cardigan stitch makes the better fabric of the two for most purposes on account of the face stitch being full and round1 thereby filling up the space between the wales4 ,inasmuch as the cotton stitch on the face is very short1 and the wool or worsted quite long1 and both are the same color1 the cotton will show but very little1 if any4 ,on the other hand1 if two widely divergent colors were used1 the face would not show a solid color but would have more of a salt and pepper effect4 ,to go back to ,fig4 #dj it will be noted1 as stated before1 that while the principle of these locks is the same as the ,lamb system previously explained1 the construction is somewhat different4 ,the stitch cams1 #a1 #h1 #g1 #f1 #c and #d are shaped along the lines of a parallelogram1 while all the stitch cams in the ,lamb system were triangular4 ,cams #c and #d are made this shape to allow placing the triangular cam1 #a;d1 in position to act as a guard cam to prevent the butts of the needles from flying up between after dropping off the ends of the stitch cams #c and #d4 ,yet it allows these stitch cams to be moved freely up and down through the angular slot in the cam plate1 which shows at the ends1 in order to make the stitch longer or shorter as the need may be4 ,cams #a and #f are made this shape to allow placing back of them the triangular cams #i and #aj1 but these are for another purpose4 ,it sometimes happens that it is desirable to make a fabric with the stitch so short that it would not cast the old stitch off over the end of the needles with all the cams set high enough to make this short stitch4 ,when this is the case1 cams #a and #f only would be moved up to a point where they would not draw the new stitch through the previous one on their respective courses1 therefore would not use any yarn1 while the opposite cams #b and #e would draw a full stitch4 ,after the needles had passed these cams 7#b and #e7 the cams #i and #aj on their respective courses1 having been set down to the proper position1 would draw the needles in this plate down to the point where the old stitch would cast off1 thereby completing that stitch without undue strain on the yarn on account of the needles on the opposite side being free to raise far enough to prevent it4 ,cam #aa acts as a guard cam for #g and #h and also is used on a short stitch to cast off for these two cams1 the same as #i and #aj cast off for #a and #f4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4 ,plating ,yarn ,carrier4 ,yarn ,carrier for ,plating ,fig4 #da shows a yarn carrier used for plating on a flat machine4 ,by plating is meant where two threads of different quality1 say worsted and cotton1 are used in the same course1 and the worsted is laid in the fabric so as to show on the outside and the cotton is in the middle4 ,to do this the worsted yarn1 d1 d1 would pass through the center hole1 b1 and the yarn c1 c1 passing through the crescent-shaped hole1 a1 would be the cotton4 ,it will be noted that the angular draw of the yarn from the bottom of the guide into the needles will always keep the yarns in the positions shown4 ,when the end of the course is reached1 and the movement of the carriage is reversed1 the cotton yarn c1 c1 will swing around to the opposite end of the crescent-shaped hole1 a1 and in this way will always be in the same relative position to the worsted yarn d4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,vi ,,fashioned ,,goods ,,fashioned goods are garments which1 while being knit on the machine1 are made the proper shape to fit the wearer4 ,if the garment to be fashioned is a sweater1 the fashioning or shaping to be done is the sleeve1 the neck opening1 the collar1 and at times in the better class of sweaters1 the arm holes are narrowed back from the lower part to the shoulder in order to shorten the shoulder length1 thereby insuring a better fit4 ,when making underwear not only the sleeves have to be shaped but the legs of the drawers are shaped also4 ,in the ladies' high class fashioned underwear and tights the bust and hips are shaped4 ,much of this class of work1 with the exception of hosiery1 is made on the hand machines and involves much more labor1 time and skill1 than where the work is knit in a straight piece and made the proper shape by other means after being taken off the machine4 ,there are three advantages in fashioning the garments in the knitting operation4 ,first1 there is a saving in material as there is no material cut off in order to get the shape4 ,this saving1 however1 would pay but a small part of the extra labor involved4 ,second1 fashioned goods make up into better looking and as a rule better fitting garments than cut goods4 ,third1 on account of the edges being selvage1 not cut and raw1 it is possible to join two edges so the place of joining will look much like a wale in the fabric1 thereby avoiding the unsightly seams of the cut garment4 ,in fashioning of this character it is customary to set the machine up and start at the widest part of the garment1 if possible1 so that in getting the required shape the fabric will be made narrower instead of wider1 though this is not essential1 as it is practical to widen the fabric as well as to make it narrower4 ,the ,narrowing ,comb ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,narrowing ,comb or ,decker and ,work ,hook4 ,the letter a in ,fig4 #db shows the instrument used for narrowing by hand4 ,it is called a decker or narrowing comb4 ,it will be noted that it consists of long slim points clamped in a handle1 with an eye in the free end of each point4 ,there may be any desired number of points clamped in the handle1 the limit being only the width of the clamp1 but the usual number for this work is from three to five4 ,these points must be set at a distance from one another to correspond to the cut of the machine on which they are to be used2 that is1 if the needle plates are cut for six needles to one inch the spacing of the decker points must be the same4 ,i might add that these deckers are sometimes made by stamping the whole decker1 points and all1 out of sheet steel1 and sometimes by soldering the round points on to a handle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4 ,set ,up ,comb4 ,perhaps the best way to explain the use of this decker is to give directions for making a sleeve4 ,first we must have a set up comb1 shown in ,fig4 #dc1 the use of which will be understood as we proceed4 ,then we must have weights with which to hold the work down on the needles1 for1 as stated before1 in the operation of knitting there must always be means provided to pull the fabric onto and away from the needles4 ,these weights are simply a stand made from a short iron rod about three-sixteenths inch in diameter and about seven to eight inches long1 with a hook turned on one end1 a small round iron disc attached to the other1 and a number of round iron weights slotted to the center to allow the operator to slip them on or off the stand to secure the desired pull4 ,in fact1 the stand and weights are a duplicate of the stand and weights we see hanging on the end of the beam of a common platform scale4 ,to make the sleeve we would put up the required number of needles for the full width of the sleeve1 let us say #ajj1 and set the locks for half cardigan stitch4 ,we would then draw the yarn through the yarn guide and down through the throat between the needle plates4 ,then we would move the carriage across the machine to the opposite side1 and we should find that each needle had caught the yarn and drawn it back and forth across the throat4 ,we would now take our set up comb1 illustrated in ,fig4 #dc1 and push the points which project at the top up through the throat1 from underneath1 until the upper ends are above the yarn1 which has been drawn back and forth across the throat1 after which we push the wire1 shown just above the comb1 through the eyes in the end of the points1 as indicated by the dotted line4 ,now we can pull the comb down on to the yarn and the wire will rest on it4 ,we then hang a weight in the center hole at the bottom and are ready to proceed with the knitting4 ,operation of ,narrowing ,the first thing we would do after hanging on our weights would be to rack over one needle to give that end of the sleeve a smooth selvage finish4 ,we would now put on five rounds1 after which we would begin to narrow4 ,stopping the carriage on the left side of the machine1 we would take the decker and place the hooks of the three end needles1 in the back plate on the right1 in the eyes of the three points of the decker1 draw the needles up until the stitch dropped down below the latch1 then push them down to their first position4 ,we find that the stitches have dropped off over the end and free of the needle on to our decker4 ,we now carry the stitches in toward the center one needle1 hook on to these three needles and pull them up through the stitches1 being careful not to pull them up so far that the stitches will drop down below the latches4 ,after this has been done we have the end needle without a stitch and therefore pull it down where it is out of operation4 ,we go through this same performance on the front needle plate1 right side1 then move the carriage over to the right and do the same with the left side4 ,it is obvious that when we have finished we shall have put four needles out of operation1 or what would count as two in the width of the garment4 ,we would repeat this after every five rounds for twenty-five rounds1 so at this point our sleeve would be ten needles narrower than when we started1 although we would have put out of operation twenty needles in narrowing4 ,it is customary to reckon only with the needles of one plate1 as the wales of one side only are counted in the width of a rib fabric4 ,shaping a garment in this manner leaves a selvage edge for joining1 consequently when the garment is finished the seams1 when properly put together1 are small with an appearance much like a wale in the fabric4 ,they also have the same stretch or elasticity as the fabric4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dd4 ,outline of ,fashioned ,sleeve4 ,fig4 #dd is an outline of approximately the shape the sleeve should be when finished and shows the direction of the wales and the places where the ones doubled up terminate4 ,this is shown on one side and edge only1 although the other side and edge would be the same4 ,it is understood1 of course1 that the sleeve is shown opened up flat1 and in being put on a garment would be doubled over and the edges joined on the underside of the arm4 ,to reduce the size from the forearm to the wrist or cuff it is usual1 in sweaters1 to depend on the change to the plain rib stitch1 for as explained previously the plain rib will come out much narrower than the half or full cardigan with the same number of needles and the same yarn4 ,in underwear and theatrical tights it is customary to fashion down the forearm to the cuff4 ,many knitters consider it good practice to reverse this formula in fashioning2 that is1 to start at the cuff in order to have the rack stitch on the end of the cuff to save the hand finishing4 ,in this event the narrowing operation as described would be reversed1 or a widening operation4 ,this is done by pulling up the three end needles and pushing them down until the stitches drop off on to the decker1 as in narrowing1 but instead of setting these stitches in towards the center we would push up another needle and set them out one4 ,this would leave the fourth needle without a stitch1 so we would pick up the previous stitch1 which had been cast off of what is now the fifth needle and raise it up and hook it over the fourth4 ,this is done with one point of the decker4 ,after having done this on both plates and on both sides of the sleeve1 while we would have pushed four needles up into operation1 we would have widened only two4 ,where it is not considered an advantage to have the widening stitches show1 this operation may be expedited quite a little by using the hook shown at b in ,fig4 #db1 which is a convenient size to handle1 about one-eighth inch in diameter by #f inches long4 ,by this method we push up into operation the new needle and simply catch with the hook the previous stitch cast off of the end needle and hook it on to the new needle on the four corners as before described4 ,it is best to do this one needle at a time with a course between1 taking the one on the plate that contains the inside needle4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,vii ,,automatic ,,flat ,,latch ,,needle ,,machines--,,single ,,lock ,,the term 8automatic0 as applied to this class of machine means that all the changes are made automatically1 as from plain stitch to half cardigan or full cardigan1 or vice versa1 changing colors to make striped work1 making the rack stitch and back to plain rib1 changing from rib to tubular or jersey stitch1 making the ,french rack1 etc4 ,all these changes may be made at any predetermined place in the work without any attention from the operator4 ,the machines discussed up to this point may be presumed to have been hand machines1 that is1 operated by manual power4 ,therefore1 all changes of the stitch1 yarn1 racking1 etc41 may be done to advantage at the proper time and place by the operator as the machine requires his whole attention anyway4 ,a prerequisite of an automatic machine is the operating of the machine by other than manual power1 therefore automatic machines are first of all what are called power machines4 ,this does not imply by any means that all power machines are automatic1 but rather that all automatic machines are power machines4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #de4 ,dubied ,automatic ,single ,lock ,machine4 ,fig4 #de shows an automatic single-lock machine built by ,dubied ,co4 in ,switzerland1 designated as ,type ,,vd1 which is a very good example of the automatic machine4 ,it is operated by the belt ,a1 ,fig4 #df1 which runs it by a pulley of the clutch type which is located back of the machine4 ,the proper movement is conveyed to the carriage through a pair of sprockets and chain as shown in ,fig4 #df1 at m4 ,the carriage is connected to the driving chain at point m1 by the connection rod n1 which obviously must follow the chain back and forth around the sprockets4 ,this arrangement gives the carriage a uniform movement during the time it is operating the needles and is generally conceded as superior to the crank system of driving4 ,the letter ,g1 ,fig4 #de1 indicates the lever for throwing in the clutch to start the machine1 and ,f is the crank for turning the machine by hand4 ,this crank does not turn when the machine is run by power but hangs in the position shown4 ,the letter ,s shows the main or controlling chain and #a and #b indicate the racking chains4 ,these will be taken up in more detail later4 ,letter ,b indicates an ingenious counter arrangement for counting the rounds1 which permits the use of very short chains and will be explained in due course4 ,h and ,k are yarn carriers1 of which there are five altogether4 ,the others are on the back and cannot be seen plainly4 ,t is the yoke or bridge which holds the two sides of the carriage together4 ,there is no physical connection between the two sides of the carriage at the point where the locks are attached1 but the connection is made through extensions which can be seen1 and through this yoke4 ,on these machines the fabric is not held down by weights1 hanging thereon1 as in the hand machines1 but by what is called a take-up roller which has means provided for adjustment to keep the desired strain on the fabric at all times4 ,the weights which are in plain view are to hold the fabric up to and in close contact with the take-up roller through a frame with a small roller on the fabric side of the frame and the weights on the outside1 which work on the lever and fulcrum principle4 ,an automatic machine must have a pattern chain of some kind or character to operate its automatic functions4 ,means provided which will be explained in what follows cause the desired change to be made at the proper time and place4 ,the machine under discussion has a main or controlling chain made up from wire links which may be taken out or added to at will1 each link measuring about #f inches crosswise of the chain and about one-half inch lengthwise of the chain4 ,this chain is carried by a sprocket roller at the top and is held down on this roller by its own weight1 though there are guards over each end to keep it from jumping off in case of emergency4 ,this sprocket roller is turned the distance of one full link by the carriage depressing the lever ,j1 and through this medium acting on the rocker shaft ,i 7,fig4 #de7 which extends the length of the machine to the sprocket roller4 ,the latter is in turn moved the distance of one link by a pawl and ratchet4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #df4 ,automatic ,mechanism1 ,dubied ,machine4 ,in ,fig4 #df we have a view of this main chain at ,s1 with the levers on which it acts shown at a to h4 ,these levers swing on a small shaft1 at the point where they appear to end1 near the center of the machine4 ,instead of ending there1 each has an extension on the other side of this shaft which extends at an angle and reaches quite close to the chain4 ,these levers1 though only about three-eighths of an inch wide1 are arranged so the angular extensions underneath come in line laterally with each other and crosswise of the chain1 or lengthwise of the machine1 and they1 together with the space between1 cover practically the whole width of the chain4 ,these levers swing freely crosswise of the machine1 but are fixed lengthwise1 therefore the positions of the upper ends can be very easily moved toward the front or back of the machine1 but are stationary in the direction in which the carriage moves4 ,keeping this in our mind1 we will now refer to the main chain shown in ,fig4 #df at ,s4 ,it will be noted that there are a number of studs affixed to the chain which project up above the chain proper4 ,these studs may be put on at any desired spot and taken off at will4 ,it is quite obvious that if we fix a stud on this chain at a spot in line with one of the levers1 let us say at lever a1 when the chain has moved forward to the point where this stud comes under the angular extension of the lever the position of the top of the lever would be changed4 ,and this new position would be fixed until the carriage has been moved to the other end of the machine and turned the chain one more link4 ,then the lower end of the lever will drop off the stud and be returned to its former position by a spring4 ,it is essential that the reader get these explanations of the different parts and their functions well fixed in his mind in order to understand intelligently the relation of one to the other4 ,fig4 #dg is a drawing of the cams and cam plates1 and ,fig4 #dh shows the top of the carriage with the cams or locks mounted underneath4 ,in the ,dubied machine this part of the carriage on which the locks are fixed is detachable1 and either side may be taken off separately1 which arrangement is very convenient at times4 ,at the left of ,fig4 #dh will be seen several slides1 designated by small letters1 which extend through the locks at different points between the cam plate and the carriage proper1 and some on the top of the carriage4 ,these are the essence of the automatic control of the stitch forming mechanism4 ,this principle is followed in all automatic machines of this type1 although the different builders vary in the details of construction and in the methods of moving these slides1 as well as the manner of operating on the cams and yarn carriers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dg4 ,cam ,arrangement of ,dubied ,single ,lock ,machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dh4 ,top ,side of ,carriage ,directly ,over ,locks or ,cams1 ,dubied ,single ,lock ,machine4 ,these slides make the proper cam or yarn guide changes by being pushed in or pulled out1 as the case may be1 and this is done by the levers indicated by the letters a to i1 ,fig4 #df4 ,each slide is provided with a flat spot or shoulder1 as indicated at m and o1 ,fig4 #dh1 which pushes them in upon coming in contact with the proper lever as the carriage reaches the extreme left end and is clear of the needles4 ,in order to have these slides moved in just the proper distance there are projections from the carriage underneath the slides with beveled ends1 part of which may be seen in ,fig4 #dh at k and i1 which push the levers off the before-mentioned shoulders and release the slides at just the proper time4 ,to explain the drawing out of these slides1 it will be noted that each slide has an enlarged part or head and all have at least one right angled shoulder on the inside of the head2 some have two4 ,it will also be noted that each one has under it a guard or extension from the carriage1 which is fixed to the carriage and is stationary1 as e and p4 ,this extension also has an enlarged part or head on the outer end1 but it is different from the heads on the levers in one respect1 this head has sloping shoulders on both ends instead of the right angled shoulders that are on the inside head of the slides4 ,where a fixed guard or extension has a sloping shoulder on both sides 7not ends7 they will be found to be at different distances from the carriage4 ,the right angled shouldered heads on the slides are made in this way so that when the proper lever 7,fig4 #df7 is placed in its path1 which is done by the studs attached to the main chain ,s1 it will slide over the head and drop in back of the shoulder as the carriage moves to the left1 and when the carriage moves to the right the lever catches on the shoulder and draws it out until the lever is released by being pushed out by the sloping shoulder of the extension underneath4 ,when the fixed extension has a sloping shoulder on both sides at different distances from the carriage proper it will be found that the slide also has a right angled shoulder on both sides4 ,this indicates that this slide may be moved to any one of three different positions1 therefore has a choice of three different functions it may perform in the automatic changes4 ,changing ,stitch ,to make the changes from plain rib to half or full cardigan1 or to plain jersey1 etc41 the slides have inclined planes under the cam plates and these engage notches or pins on studs extending through from the cams and by this means raise the cams up into the cam plate out of action1 or let them down into action as the case may be4 ,the illustration1 ,fig4 #dg1 shows them all down in the proper position to make the plain rib or cuff stitch4 ,to change to half cardigan stitch it would be necessary to raise cam #c;b up out of operation1 which is done by slide n4 ,fig4 #dh1 which in turn is moved to the proper position to accomplish this by the lever h1 ,fig4 #df4 ,this slide has three different positions1 therefore three different functions to perform in the automatic changes1 which are accomplished as follows3 ,to make a half cardigan stitch a low stud 7there are three heights1 low1 medium and high7 should be placed so it will come under lever h4 ,when this takes place the top end of this lever is moved to the position where it would engage the upper shoulder of slide n1 and on the return of the carriage it would draw this slide out to its farthest point1 or until it is pushed off the shoulder by the taper on that side of the guard or extension p4 ,when the slide is moved to this position it raises up and holds out of operation cam #c;b1 thus causing the machine to make the half cardigan stitch4 ,this should be readily understood from what has gone before4 ,to change to plain rib stitch place a medium stud under the same lever 7h7 and its top position will be changed to where it will push the slide clear in as the carriage moves to the left4 ,on the return movement the lever will engage the shoulder on the opposite side and draw it out until released by the guard as before4 ,this releases cam #c;b1 which drops down into working position4 ,the fact that the sloping shoulders on each side of the stationary guards are at different distances from the carriage causes this slide1 n1 to be left in different positions according to which side the lever h engages it4 ,in the third change1 which makes the ,french rack or false knop stitches1 it is necessary to raise up out of operation the cams #c;b and #c;c4 ,to do this a high stud should be placed to come under the same lever 7h71 which would then be moved to a position where it would come in contact with the shoulder v 7which is a part of the slide n7 and would push the slide in until disengaged by another sloping guard which cannot be seen4 ,when the lever drops back on to the chain without any studs under it it is clear of all slides2 therefore will make no changes4 ,the other slides are moved in the same way as the one just explained1 but each one has the part1 which make8 the changes1 constructed in such a manner that it will operate that particular member of the locks for which it is intended4 ,changing the ,yarn ,carriers ,there is one other change that is made by these levers and slides besides the changes in the stitch1 and that is changing the yarn carriers to make stripes of different colors4 ,this is done1 not by changing the yarn in the yarn carriers as one might imagine1 but by providing a carrier for each yarn needed and then changing the carriers4 ,these carriers are shown at letter k1 in ,fig4 #df4 ,they are not fixed to the carriage but are attached to a block which slides back and forth on ways or gibs which are shown at #a1 #b1 #c and #d1 and reach the length of the machine4 ,the gibs are undercut on a bevel on both edges and the block is undercut in the same way1 so they dovetail together to keep the block from lifting off1 yet are free to slide back and forth on the gib4 ,these blocks have a depression or are cut out on the upper edge with a square shoulder at each end of the cut out1 and the carrier is moved back and forth by a plunger which is attached to the carriage and engages these shoulders4 ,in ,fig4 #dg1 at letter x1 are shown the plungers1 and ,fig4 #dh1 letter x1 shows them placed in the block and attached to the carriage4 ,these plungers are set to pick up the desired yarn carrier by the slide1 i1 on the front1 and slide1 z1 on the back4 7,fig4 #dh47 ,racking ,chains ,we will leave the slides and levers for the present and give our attention to the two racking chains shown in ,fig4 #di at figures #a and #b4 ,inasmuch as the rack stitch is made by a part of the machine entirely separate and distinct from the locks and carriage1 that is1 the needle plate1 obviously it is necessary to arrange means other than the levers and slides on the top of the machine to do this automatically4 ,the mechanism used to do the actual racking is illustrated in ,fig4 #cb4 ,the illustration is accompanied by an explanation of the required movements4 ,this racking cam may be seen in ,fig4 #di at letter ,r4 ,having in mind the former explanation it is evident that to control the racking it is necessary to control the pawls only which actuate the ratchet4 ,this is done by the racking chains shown in ,fig4 #di4 ,they of themselves do no actual racking1 but simply put the pawls into action or out of action1 as the case may be1 at the proper time4 ,these chains hang on a sprocket roller and are moved two links at each round of the machine by the same means as the main chain1 and are started and stopped automatically by studs on the main chain at any predetermined time4 ,there are also two levers over the top of each1 and it is by means of these levers that they control the pawls which actuate the racking cam ratchet through small rocker shafts4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #di4 ,racking ,chains and ,cam1 ,dubied ,automatic ,single ,lock ,machine4 ,it will be noted that the chains have studs attached1 similar to the main chain1 which are staggered or attached alternately near both sides of the chain4 ,as these studs pass under and raise a lever at the top of the chain they cause a pawl to act on the racking cam ratchet1 thereby making one rack4 ,when the carriage makes the next round the chain would have moved forward so the lever just mentioned would have dropped off its stud and the stud on the other side of the chain would move up to and under the second lever1 which would cause the other pawl to act in the opposite way and therefore would rack the plate back to its starting point4 ,if two or more racks in the same direction are desired1 it would only be necessary to put two or more studs in line on the same side1 but remembering that where this is done it is imperative that later the same number be placed on the other side so as to return the racking plate to its original position4 ,both of these chains do the same work and in the same manner1 and either one may be selected to do the racking at any time or place1 but both should not and cannot be operated at the same time for there is a very ingenious arrangement which will stop the one automatically1 if working1 immediately when the other one starts4 ,the reason for providing two chains instead of one is to enable the operator to make two different kinds of rack in one garment by setting the studs on one chain for let us say a one-needle rack1 and on the other for a two-needle rack4 ,this arrangement permits the use of very short chains1 as the racked pattern may repeat itself on the chain any number of times1 where if a single chain were used it would be necessary to have a chain long enough to have a stud for each time the plate racked1 when two patterns are required1 and this would necessitate the use of a very long chain at times4 ,some few years ago1 when automatic machines were first brought out1 all automatic functions were operated from a single chain4 ,this meant the use of very long and unwieldy chains many times1 as it was necessary to have a link in the chain for each round4 ,it was soon realized that by stopping the chain during the time the machine was making one kind of fabric without a change1 which on most work is by far the greater part1 and operating it only when needed1 not only much time and material in making up the chain would be saved1 but also much annoyance and trouble in providing means to keep the chain from getting twisted or out of place while running would be eliminated4 ,control of ,automatic ,changes ,most of the builders have devised means to do this and one of the best methods is the cylinder or drum idea devised by ,dubied ,co41 which is shown in ,fig4 #ej4 ,to more easily master the explanation of how this cylinder operates1 it should be understood that its only function is to count the rounds and start the main chain at the proper point1 the chain stopping itself after having caused the automatic changes necessary at that point4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ej4 ,counting ,drum for ,short ,chain ,arrangement1 ,dubied ,machines4 ,the device consists of a cylinder about #aj to #ab inches long by about #f inches in diameter1 around which are cut two spiral grooves1 the larger of which is used to attach stops and the smaller to act as a guide for the fingers i and j1 which extend down into and run in the narrow groove and carry the whole block1 including the forks k and l1 forward or backward on the rods g and h1 according to which way the cylinder is turning4 ,the cylinder is divided in its circumference by the lines into #a1jjj divisions1 and is turned the distance of one division each round of the machine by means of the roller on the lug o1 which raises the lever a1 which in its turn raises the pawl c1 and its duplicate on the back1 which cannot be seen4 ,it can very easily be noted how the pawl c engages the outside ratchet and on being raised it would obviously turn the drum one tooth of the ratchet wheel4 ,the back pawl operates on the center ratchet wheel and inasmuch as this ratchet wheel is cut the opposite way from the outside one1 and the pawl is on the opposite side1 it is plain that when the back pawl is in operation the cylinder will turn backward4 ,both pawls raise each time the lever is raised1 but only one at a time can engage the ratchets and the one which engages is governed by the stops ,a or ,e on the cylinder4 ,this is done by two guards1 one of which may be seen at d1 while the other would be between the back pawl and its ratchet1 therefore this back pawl could not operate4 ,these guards are mounted on a triangular or three-cornered frame which is pivoted at the center on the cylinder shaft with the guards mounted on the two lower corners1 while the third corner is engaged by the lever n1 which in turn is secured to the rod h4 ,now it is plain that if the bottom or base of this triangle is moved forward or toward the machine1 the front guard would move under and disengage the front pawl while the back guard would move down and free the back pawl and allow it to operate on its ratchet wheel4 ,keeping this triangular arrangement in mind we will turn our attention to the block1 of which the fingers i and j1 and the forks k and l1 form a part4 ,as noted before there are three fingers extending down to the cylinder from the block1 two of which 7i and j7 reach down to but do not touch the cylinder1 while the third one1 which is between these two1 engages in the smaller of the two grooves4 ,the block is constructed so it must move lengthwise of the rod as one piece1 but each part is free to move laterally independent of another4 ,the block is not fixed in any manner to the top rod and the only positive connection it has with the lower rod h is with a key in the center finger which engages in a keyway which is cut the full length of the rod4 ,it should now be clear to the reader that so long as there is no obstruction placed in the path of the center finger it will simply follow the small groove and gradually move over toward the right 7if the front pawl is operating and the top of the cylinder is turning away from you7 until it comes to the ,stop1 ,e1 which it will be noted lies across its path4 ,on account of the key in this center finger engaging the keyway in the rod h1 it naturally follows that when the finger comes up to the stop ,e1 the next movement of the cylinder will swing it away from you and this turn of the rod h1 will swing the lever n1 and through this will swing the triangle on which the guards d1 are mounted1 bringing the front guard d up under the front pawl and at the same time will free the back pawl on the center ratchet1 thereby reversing the movement of the cylinder4 ,upon the return of the block to its starting point at the left end of the cylinder1 its direction of movement is again reversed in the same way by the stop ,a4 ,stop ,a is set at division ,o and is never moved1 but stop ,e may be placed at any number of the divisions corresponding to the number of rounds in the garment4 ,this point will be taken up again further along4 ,now to give our attention to the side fingers i and j4 ,these are constructed so that the left one1 or i1 will swing freely toward you but an attempt to swing it away from you will engage the fork k1 which by contact would swing the rod g1 which through the connection f would raise the lever e1 and this by a pull on the cord m would start the main chain in motion4 ,the right finger j works in precisely the same manner1 only that it swings freely when moved away from you and starts the main chain in motion when moved toward you1 by contact of the fork l with rod g4 ,with the foregoing in mind it should hardly be necessary to explain that the stops ,c and ,d are for the purpose of putting the main chain in motion by coming in contact with the fingers i or j2 ,c to operate when the cylinder is turning the top away from you by tripping finger i1 and ,d when it turns toward you by tripping finger j4 ,it will be noted that the stops ,a and ,e have short extensions which extend forward along the side of the small groove4 ,these cause the side fingers1 i or j1 to start the main chain at the same time that the direction of the movement of the cylinder changes4 ,if for any reason this is not desired1 a stop like ,b may be used instead of these1 and then the cylinder will reverse without starting the main chain4 ,going back to the setting of stop ,e1 where the garment to be made has less than #a1jjj rounds1 it is customary to set this stop as well as the intermediate stops1 like ,c and ,d1 to make a complete garment on its forward movement and a second one on its return4 ,but if the garment should have more than #a1jjj rounds1 let us say #a1ejj1 then stop ,e would be set on division #gej and the small stops like ,c1 which are for tripping the finger i1 would be placed at the proper place to start the main chain for the automatic changes in the first half of the garment4 ,the stops like ,d1 which are for tripping the finger j1 would do the same for the last half of the garment4 ,if there is no change to be made in the middle of the garment the knitter may avoid it by either one of two means2 either by using a stop like ,b1 which will reverse the movement of the cylinder without starting the main chain1 or by using a stop like ,e1 which starts the main chain at the same time it reverses the movement of the cylinder1 but in this event he must put in the main chain two extra links with a stud attached for stopping the chain immediately after starting without acting upon any of its automatic mechanism4 ,if the fabric being made does not require the use of the cylinder all that it is necessary to do to stop it is to raise up the lever a1 and draw the roller b out against the head of its stud4 ,control of ,yarn ,up to this point the yarn guides and carriers have been mentioned only incidentally so we will now take them up in more detail4 ,where there is only one thread and guide on a machine it is a very simple matter to control it but in the modern full automatic machines1 where there are several threads and guides1 and they must be arranged so that any one on a single lock machine1 or any two on a double lock1 may be selected at will1 it becomes more of a problem4 ,there is another point that must be taken into consideration in connection with this4 ,that is1 in the automatic machines the carriage must travel the full length of the machine but much of the fabric made on these machines does not take the whole width4 ,therefore if the yarn carrier was carried the full length with the locks there would be at the end of each course a considerable length of yarn1 reaching from the edge of the fabric to the yarn carrier1 which it would be very difficult1 if not impossible1 to draw back through the yarn guide4 ,there must be no slack yarn between the edge of the fabric and the yarn guide when starting to knit across on a course4 ,to obviate these difficulties the yarn carriers are attached to blocks which in turn are mounted on ways or bars which reach the full length of the machine and may be seen in ,fig4 #df1 and are indicated by the figures #a1 #b1 #c and #d in white4 ,this has been explained in part before1 together with the manner of operating the carriers with plungers1 but ,i wish to call the reader's attention to it again as it has a direct connection with what follows4 ,to prevent the yarn carrier from following the locks to the end of their travel1 and thereby accumulating yarn between the guide and the edge of the fabric1 there is a stop placed at each end of the fabric to stop the carrier at the proper point4 ,one of these stops may be seen in ,fig4 #di1 at ,q4 ,this may be placed in any desired spot and is held in place by a pin which engages in one of the holes in the way or bar1 which holes may be plainly seen4 ,this stop consists of a base or block which slides on to the way on the dovetail principle4 ,on the top edge of this base there is a thin strip about #d inches long by about one-half inch wide1 which is beveled down from the top to the bottom edge on both ends4 ,when the carriage with the yarn carrier approaches this stop the carrier comes just under this top strip and the point of the strip comes just under the end of the plunger ,x1 ,fig4 #dh1 also ,fig4 #eb1 which as explained before moves the yarn carrier4 ,as the carriage moves farther along1 the plunger slides up the incline or bevel of the strip and is raised out of engagement with the shoulder on the yarn carrier block1 and the carrier stops while the carriage completes the length of its travel4 ,upon the return of the carriage the plunger will slide over the strip on the stop1 drop into the opening of the yarn carrier block1 and engage the opposite shoulder and take the yarn carrier back with it on the return course1 where it will be released on the other side in the same manner as just explained4 ,yarn ,take-,up ,spring ,no matter how close to the edge of the fabric the yarn guide may be stopped1 unless the yarn is kept taut the selvage will not be perfect1 therefore a very insignificant appearing but quite important adjunct called the yarn take-up spring is provided to do this4 ,there is one provided for each yarn guide and their position in relation to the machine may be seen at the top of the yarn stand in ,fig4 #de1 while one is shown in detail in ,fig4 #ea4 ,the spring is a coil spring turned around the stud1 f1 and attached at the inner end4 ,the outer end is a part of this spring straightened out as at b1 with an eye turned in the end at d4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ea4 ,yarn ,stand and ,take ,up ,spring4 ,by turning the top of the stud f away from you it will put more pull or tension on the spring1 and by turning toward you less4 ,the yarn is drawn from the bobbin1 e1 through an eye directly over the bobbin1 then through a hole in the tension stud at a1 then through an eye of the spring1 then down through another eye in the stand at g1 and directly to the yarn guide of the machine4 ,the tension a prevents the spring from drawing any yarn from the bobbin1 therefore it will always draw the slack yarn from the yarn guide and keep it taut at all times4 ,there must be a take-up spring for each thread in use and that means that there are sometimes as many as eight or ten on one stand4 ,we have had a drawing of the double lock in ,fig4 #dj1 showing the cam side with an explanation of how it works and its advantages1 so now we will show only the top carriage side in ,fig4 #eb1 with its appurtenances for the automatic changes4 ,bear in mind that when slides or plungers are mentioned in the following explanation reference is made to ,fig4 #eb1 and when cams are mentioned reference is had to ,fig4 #dj4 ,stitch ,changes ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eb4 ,top ,side of ,carriage ,directly ,over ,locks1 ,dubied ,automatic ,double ,lock ,machine4 ,slide a operates on cams #a;b and #d;b to change from plain to cardigan1 or vice versa1 and is used in making the full cardigan stitch4 ,slide b and g1 working in conjunction with d and e1 are for changing the length of stitch1 which will be explained more fully later4 ,slides c and f are for changing the yarn carriers to change colors4 ,the exchange of carriers at the end of each course in order to keep the cotton carrier feeding into the cams that are leading 7where cotton and worsted or wool is used7 is another matter and should not be confused with this4 ,slide h operates on cams #b;b and #c;b to change from plain to half cardigan1 or vice versa1 also on these cams together with cams #b;c and #c;c to make the ,french rack or false knop4 ,slides i and j operate cams #a;a1 #b;a1 #c;a and #d;a to make tubular work1 or to be more explicit1 they raise one pair of these cams up out of operation while the other pair knit only on one side alternately and in this way knit jersey fabric in tubular form4 ,to go back to slides b and g1 in order to understand this explanation it will be necessary to return again to ,fig4 #dj4 ,what are called the stitch cams1 or cams #a to #aj1 are attached to the cam plates through elongated slots1 the ends of which may be seen at the top and bottom of the cams4 ,the cams1 though attached to the plate1 may be easily moved lengthwise of these slots4 ,on the under side of the plate is a coil spring with one end attached to a stud in the cams1 while the other end is attached to the bottom edge of the plate4 ,these springs will always draw the cams to the lowest end of the slots if nothing is placed in the way4 ,bear in mind that the bottom of the lower plate is the lower edge and the bottom of the top plate is the top edge1 in the drawing4 ,to change the length of the stitch it is necessary to raise or lower these cams4 ,to draw a longer stitch they would be moved toward the bottom of the plate and for a shorter one toward the top4 ,now it is clear that in order to change the length of the stitch automatically it is only necessary to provide stops of the proper height for them to rest on when pulled down by the before-mentioned springs4 ,the cam studs to which the springs are attached are long enough to reach up through the carriage proper and may be seen resting on the end of the pins ,,ii1 ,fig4 #eb4 ,the reader of a mechanical turn of mind should be able to grasp the modus operandi of the automatic changing of the length of the stitch from the explanation up to this point1 but to continue we will refer again to the pins indicated by the ,roman numerals ,i1 ,,ii1 and ,,iii1 ,fig4 #eb4 ,it will be noted that there are a set of three of these pins for each stitch or draw cam1 therefore the knitter may change to any one of three different lengths of stitch at his option by raising or lowering these pins4 ,the pins must of course be set individually at the proper height1 each one for its own length of stitch1 before starting the machine4 ,inasmuch as all the pins on the front side are attached to one slide1 and the pins on the back are attached to another1 all that it is necessary to do to change the length of the stitch is to change the pins on which the before-mentioned cam studs rest1 they being held down on the pins by the coil spring between the carriage proper and the cam plate4 ,this is done with slides b and g1 in conjunction with slides e and d1 which raise the cams and studs up so they will not catch between the pins while the change is being made4 ,in the meantime slides b and g move the desired pins to the position where the studs can drop on them when the slides e and d are returned to their running position1 which position allows studs to drop on their respective pins1 with the exception of the pair of cams at the extreme right1 which are held up for one course4 ,this is another ingenious and practical arrangement which deserves an explanation1 but this leads us to another point which should be gone into first4 ,that is1 when the cams are changed to make a short stitch after having made a long one1 the holding up of the right pair of stitch cams for one course is of no benefit4 ,but in changing from a short stitch to a long one1 inasmuch as the right pair of stitch cams pass over the needle butts before the new course is made1 if they were allowed1 preparatory to drawing a longer stitch in the next course1 to drop down to a point below where the previous stitch was drawn1 they would ride on the butts of the needles and cause undue strain on the stitches of that course and would be very liable to break them1 thereby making holes in the fabric4 ,this is prevented by holding up these two cams one course4 ,this is done by providing two catches to receive and hold them when they are raised at the left of the machine1 but when the carriage is moved to the extreme right of the machine the two small levers1 l and k1 come in contact with two studs and release the catches1 and allow the two cams to drop down on their respective pins4 ,it has been explained that in making what are known as cotton backs and like fabrics the cotton yarn1 or yarn that must show on one side only1 must at all times be fed in the locks that are in the lead1 on a double lock machine1 while the worsted or wool yarn which shows on the other side must feed into the following pair4 ,to do this the yarn carriers must be exchanged at the end of each course4 ,to explain how this is done we will refer to ,fig4 #eb1 where the plungers that engage the yarn carrier blocks and moves them back and forth with the locks1 are shown at x and y4 ,these plungers never take more than two carriers at one time4 ,in these machines there may be four or more bars or ways for yarn carriers1 and in the preceding explanation of how the yarn carriers are stopped we assumed that the carriers in question were being operated on the lower ways by the outside end of the plungers x4 ,for this present explanation we will assume that we are using the carriers on the top bar or way1 and they would be operated by the end of the plungers towards the center of the carriage4 ,it will be recalled that when the yarn carrier block comes to the stop at the edge of the fabric1 the plunger is raised out of engagement with its shoulder1 and the block stops while the plunger passes on4 ,when the carrier block that is being moved across by the plunger in the lead stops1 the one that follows will also pass over the block without moving it1 as the outside end of the block is beveled off to compel this4 ,it will be noticed that the inside ends of the back plungers at y are flattened1 and the flat sides are at right angles to the travel of the carriage4 ,now we will assume the carriage is traveling from right to left1 and the cotton carrier is being moved along by the plunger in the lead1 or y on the left4 ,when this carrier comes to the stop on the left this plunger leaves it there and passes on1 also the plunger on the right will pass on over the carrier block4 ,but upon the return of the carriage moving toward the right the first plunger coming in contact with the yarn carrier block1 which would be y on the right and which would now be in the lead1 would engage the shoulder of the block and take it across4 ,it will be noted that the two front plungers are also flattened at x1 but are different from the back ones in this respect2 the inside flat is at right angles to the travel of the carriage while the outside flats are at an angle of about #de degrees4 ,the yarn carrier operated on this side is stopped at the edge of the fabric with the plungers passing over and beyond it the same as the back one4 ,but upon the return of the carriage the first plunger cannot pick up the carrier block as the side of the plunger coming in contact with the shoulder of the block is beveled off and cannot catch1 but when the second plunger comes along with its flat side at right angles to its movement1 it will engage the shoulder of the carrier block and take it along4 ,it may have been noticed in ,fig4 #de that the machine illustrated has two separate fabrics on it4 ,this is done very often when a knitter has a large machine and has no wide work to make4 ,he simply utilizes the greater part of the machine by making two narrow fabrics4 ,when this is done both fabrics must be the same vertically or lengthwise of the fabric1 but they may be of different widths and of different colors4 ,this is made possible by the system of carriers and blocks mounted on ways together with the stops1 as just described4 ,there are two carriers mounted on each way or bar1 instead of one as previously explained1 and stops are placed at each side of both fabrics so the plungers1 either y or x or both1 according to how many carriers are in use1 will drop one carrier at the edge of one of the fabrics and pick up the other carrier to knit the course on the second fabric4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,viii ,,the ,,automatic ,,widening ,,machine--,,explanation ,,of ,,mechanism ,,used ,,we have explained what fashioned work is and how it is done by hand4 ,fig4 #ec shows a machine built by ,dubied ,co41 which does this work by widening the fabric automatically in the knitting operation4 ,it is called an automatic widening machine1 and is particularly adapted to making sleeves4 ,it overcomes the principal objection knitters have to making shaped work--that is1 the extra labor involved1 and has the advantages before-mentioned--namely1 no material to be cut away to get the shape1 a selvedge edge which means a small neat seam1 and the proper shape for a proper fit4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ec4 ,automatic ,widening ,machine1 ,dubied4 ,the ,widening ,device ,to the casual observer1 the widening machine would look to be a very complicated piece of mechanism1 but as a matter of fact the widening device is surprising in its simplicity4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ed4 ,widening ,mechanism1 ,dubied ,automatic ,widening ,machine4 ,fig4 #ed shows the principle of the method used4 ,the drawing does not by any means reproduce the parts as made1 but only shows the principle employed to secure these results1 with all superfluous parts eliminated4 ,the machine proper is a full automatic machine1 practically the same as we have just finished with in the last article1 with the exception of the needle plates and the needles that are used1 and the addition of the widening mechanism4 ,the needle plates are made almost twice as wide as the regular plates1 with a gib running through the middle of the lower part as shown4 ,the needles used for the narrowest part of the fabric1 and which are never used in the widening operation1 are shown by the letter a in ,fig4 #ef1 and have one butt only as indicated at b4 ,the needles used in widening have one butt at the same distance from the hook as the regular needles1 as at c1 and in addition to this they have a second butt at the lower end of the shank extension which reaches down under the narrow gib to the lower half of the plate1 as indicated at d4 ,the slot in the needle plate1 at the lower edge1 is cut all the way through the plate up to a point which would about equal the distance between the needles up in working position and the needles down4 ,there are needle springs1 shown at n in ,fig4 #ed1 below each needle which1 when the needles are down1 project just below the bottom edge of the plate1 and when pushed up to hold the needles in working position would have their lower ends about where the lower butts of the widening needles are when down1 as shown4 ,the needle spring is shown in ,fig4 #ef1 at e1 in its position relative to the needle1 the upper portion at e fitting in the needle slot below the needle1 while the lower part acts as a clamp on the under side of the plate4 ,the lever shown at f in ,fig4 #ed1 together with the slide g and the stop h1 is enclosed in a cast block and they1 together with the yarn carrier stop i1 move freely lengthwise of the small shaft e4 ,there is attached to this block a cord q1 which runs over the small pulley o with a weight attached as at p4 ,it naturally follows that this weight would pull the block1 lever1 carrier stop and all1 over to the extreme right if there were nothing in the way to stop it4 ,the stop h is for this purpose4 ,it is stationary in the block and extends up to the plate1 while the slide g is cut back far enough to clear the lower ends of the springs n which are below the needles4 ,pushing ,needle ,into ,working ,position ,inasmuch as these springs extend a trifle below the plate when the long needles are down and the stop h comes up in close proximity to the bottom edge of the plate1 this stop will engage the left side of the spring and prevent the block1 together with the lever f and slide g1 from moving toward the right4 ,now in order to widen the fabric one stitch or wale it is simply necessary to push the needle r up into working position4 ,this is done by moving the cam block1 a1 longitudinally1 which would necessarily raise the lever d1 which1 through the rocker shaft e and lever f1 would push the slide g1 together with the spring n and needle r1 up high enough to put this needle into working position4 ,it should be understood that there are four of these widening mechanisms as shown in ,fig4 #ed1 one on each end of both front and back needle plates1 but as they are all operated in the same manner it will be necessary to describe and explain but one4 ,now to explain how this is done automatically we will refer to ,fig4 #ee1 which shows the cam side of the carriage of the automatic widening machine4 ,it will be noted that on the ends of the four fixed extensions b#a1 b#b1 b#c and b#d1 there are rollers a#a to a#d1 attached with shouldered screws whose heads are flush with the end of the rollers4 ,as we are dealing with only one we will select a#a1 which is the one that would operate on the block a1 ,fig4 #ed1 when turned over and placed on the machine4 ,this roller is in the proper position to engage the cam b 7,fig4 #ed7 when the carriage is at the right end of the machine1 and when the carriage is at the end of its travel the roller would be at about the point ,b4 ,it naturally follows that inasmuch as cam b is attached to the block a on an inclined plane1 and the block a is attached to the frame of the machine in such a manner that it cannot move lengthwise of the machine1 but may be moved freely in an up-and-down direction1 when the roller moves through the camway between cam b and cam c the block must move upward1 thereby pushing up one needle4 ,upon the return of the carriage the roller coming in contact with cam c will return the block to its first position4 ,when the block a is moved down by the roller1 after pushing up the needle1 it must necessarily draw the slide g back to the position shown1 and inasmuch as the lever f slides freely lengthwise on the shaft e1 and there is nothing to prevent1 the weight p will draw all of this part of the mechanism over one needle or until the stop h comes in contact with the next needle spring n4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ee4 ,under or ,cam ,side of ,carriage1 ,dubied ,automatic ,widening ,machine4 ,now1 it should be understood that1 as a rule1 a fabric is not widened a needle each round1 therefore the block a 7,fig4 #ed7 is arranged so it will drop below the plane of travel of the roller a#a 7,fig4 #ee7 when widening is not desired4 ,perhaps it would be more correct to say that the normal position of block a is below the plane of travel of the roller a#a1 therefore out of operation and is raised up in the path of this roller by a stud on the widening chain ,a1 ,fig4 #ec1 at the proper time to push the needle up into operation4 ,upon the return of the carriage it drops down to its normal position until another needle is to be added to the fabric4 ,the position of the block a in ,fig4 #ed1 in relation to the rest of the machine1 may be seen at ,b in ,fig4 #ec4 ,returning the ,needles ,as stated before1 a fabric to be shaped on this machine must be started at its narrowest part1 therefore when the garment or part of a garment is finished1 these needles which have been pushed up to widen it must be returned to their lowest position where they are out of operation1 in order to start a new piece4 ,this is where the second and lower butts of the needles come into use4 ,they are operated on by the cams c#a to c#d1 and d#a to d#d1 ,fig4 #ee4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ef4 ,needles and ,needle ,springs ,used in ,automatic ,widening ,machine4 ,these cams are arranged so that normally they are raised up in the cam plate and pass over the lower butts of the needles1 but they may be lowered to operate the needles and raised again1 all automatically1 at the proper time and place by slides and levers similar to those described in a previous article on the automatic machine4 ,the manner of returning the widening needles to their lowest position so they will be out of operation should be obvious to the reader after the foregoing explanations and a study of the illustrations4 ,when the time comes to cast off these added stitches in order to start a new sleeve or fabric1 the plate on which cams c#a and d#a are attached is automatically lowered when the carriage is over to the extreme right4 ,then upon its return the lower needle butts of the widening needles will come in contact with the left side of cam d#a1 and moving up over the top of this will1 of course1 raise the needles to a point where the latches are above the stitches4 ,as the carriage moves farther along1 and the butts come in contact with the left side of cam c#a1 they will slide down and cast the stitches off over the latch and hook1 and at the same time be drawn down to a point so low that the knitting or upper cams cannot operate on the upper butts4 ,at the same time that the cams c#a and d#a are lowered to cast off and draw out of operation the widening needles1 a plunger1 which is attached to the carriage1 drops down and engages a recess on the under side of the yarn carrier stop i1 ,fig4 #ed1 and through the lug j moves the lever f1 together with the slide g and stop h1 back to its first position where the plunger is disengaged by an inclined stop4 ,the stop h will hold this part of the mechanism in this place by contact with the first needle spring as explained before4 ,it should be understood that while this explanation covers only one of the four corners that must have the needles pushed up to widen the fabric1 the method applies to all of them4 ,also in the manner of casting off the widening needles and returning them to their lowest positions preparatory to starting a new fabric1 we have confined ourselves to the right end of the front plate only in order to present the matter in the simplest possible manner4 ,in actual practice the pair of cams on the left1 indicated by c#c and d#c1 together with c#d and d#d1 are put into operation first by a medium stud on the widening chain while the carriage is at the extreme left end4 ,upon the return movement of the carriage these cams would cast off and return the widening needles to their lowest point on the left end of both front and back plates4 ,immediately this is done the cams are released by means provided1 and they again rise up into the plate out of the working position1 thus passing over the right side widening needles without effect4 ,after putting on one full round the cams d#a and c#a1 together with cams d#b and c#b1 are put into operation at the extreme right end of the machine by a high stud on the widening chain1 and these cast off and draw down out of operation the front and back widening needles on the right in the same manner as heretofore explained4 ,yarn ,carrier ,stop ,the reader will realize from what has gone before that when there are needles added to or taken from the edge of a fabric1 while in the process of knitting on a machine1 it would be necessary to arrange to change the stopping position of the yarn carrier in order to prevent it from stopping too far away from or too close in to the fabric as the widening operation progresses4 ,this is done by the simple expedient of having the yarn carrier stop mounted on its bar or way so it will slide freely1 and providing the lugs j and k1 ,fig4 #ed1 on both sides of the lever f1 so that it1 with the lever f1 and slide g1 with stop h1 will at all times move together4 ,therefore the needle on the edge of the fabric and the yarn carrier stops are always in the same relative position4 ,if the reader has stopped to ponder on the working of this machine1 with the resultant fabric1 he may realize that there should be more pull or tension on the fabric during the last part of it than when it is started4 ,as there have been needles added it is wider4 ,this has been provided for so that by placing high studs on the main chain at the proper point they will increase the tension on the take-up rollers where and as much as needed4 ,when the widening needles are cast off1 and the width of the fabric is reduced to its narrowest portion1 this extra tension may be automatically released and the pull reduced to the proper strain for the narrower fabric4 ,these machines are made only in the double lock type1 but there are means provided through the before described levers and slides to change automatically to single lock by raising one pair of the locks up out of operation4 ,this is quite an advantage where one wishes to make some style of garment with a rack showing on both sides of the fabric such as the turned-up cuff on ladies' sweaters1 etc4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,ix ,,purl ,,stitch1 ,,or ,,links ,,and ,,links ,,machine1 ,,for ,,hand ,,or ,,manual ,,power ,,the purl stitch or links and links machine is a type which may be termed unique in the class of machinery built to make knitted fabrics4 ,it is entirely a ,european development2 in fact1 to my knowledge there had been none of these machines built in this country until some time after the war started1 when it was impossible to import them4 ,the chief individual characteristic of purl stitch machines lies in the fact that they have two needle plates1 but only one set of needles1 and the cams do not act directly on the needles1 but act indirectly through what are called jacks4 ,first we will try to get a thorough knowledge of the fabric this machine was primarily designed to make1 and the stitch formation required to produce this fabric2 then the mechanism and movements of the different parts of the machine will be more readily understood as we proceed with the explanation4 ,character of ,fabric ,fig4 #eg shows a photographic reproduction of the fabric with the top turned over to show both sides1 which it will be noted are exactly the same4 ,fig4 #eh is a line drawing showing the formation of the stitch2 the course that the yarn takes may easily be followed4 ,this is called the purl stitch and is very popular with milady when making hand knit sweaters1 children's suits1 etc4 ,if the reader will refer back to ,fig4 #ab1 he may be surprised to note how near this fabric is like the back of the jersey fabric1 while the face of the jersey fabric is so different4 ,i do not think that ,i should go very far wrong if ,i put this in the same class as the jersey fabric1 the same as the half and full cardigan are classed as rib fabrics4 ,it is made the same as the jersey on one set of needles1 but with this difference3 ,in making the jersey fabric the loop is always drawn through the previous loop in the same direction4 ,that is1 we will suppose we were making this jersey fabric on an ordinary flat machine1 on the front plate only4 ,in this case the loops would always be drawn toward you through the previous loops4 ,now if we should reverse every course the direction in which we draw these loops1 or in other words1 if we should draw them towards you when moving the carriage from right to left1 and away from you when moving the carriage from left to right1 and continued this reversal1 we would make a purl stitch fabric4 ,but1 you say1 how are we going to do this8 ,the solution is the purl stitch or links and links machine1 with its double ended needle1 or a needle with a hook and latch on both ends to permit the whole needle to be pushed through the loop every course1 thereby casting the previous loops off one end on one course1 and off the opposite end on the next course4 ,this system of knitting is such that there can be no obstruction to the free movement of the stitch over any part of the needle1 therefore this fact precludes the use of a butt projecting up from any part for the cams to operate on1 even if there were no other reason1 which there is as the reader will understand after a study of the subject4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eg4 ,plain ,purl ,stitch ,fabric4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eh4 ,construction of the ,plain ,purl ,stitch ,fabric4 ,this machine is constructed somewhat along the lines of the ordinary flat machine1 which we have been studying4 ,its points of similarity are that the table or stand is the same1 it has two straight1 flat needle plates1 it has a carriage which is moved backward and forward over the needle plates to operate the needles1 and the cams or locks are practically the same as in the ordinary single lock flat machine4 ,the main points of difference are that on the purl stitch machine the needle plates are set so that they are flat1 or both are on a horizontal plane1 and the needle slots of both plates are directly in alignment with one another so a needle may move freely from the front to the back plate1 or vice versa4 ,the ordinary flat machine has the needle plates set at an angle of about #ij degrees to one another1 and #de degrees to the horizontal1 and they are set lengthwise so the needle slots of one plate are opposite the space between the needle slots of the opposite plate1 or in a position so the needles of one plate will come up between the needles of the opposite plate4 ,another point of difference is that the purl stitch machine has one set of needles for both plates1 with a hook and latch on both ends of each needle and no butts to operate them1 while the ordinary machine has a set of needles for each plate with a hook and latch on one end only with a butt on the other end to operate it4 ,it naturally follows that inasmuch as the needle plates are set flat1 instead of at an angle to one another1 and the needles are operated indirectly through what are called jacks instead of directly on butts on the needles1 the construction of the purl stitch machine must be somewhat different from the ordinary flat machine4 ,construction of ,purl ,stitch ,machine ,fig4 #ei shows a general view of a purl stitch machine built by ,dubied ,co4 ,the letter a indicates the carriage1 b the handle used to operate the carriage1 and c is an auxiliary handle which some knitters like and use1 while others take it off1 preferring the use of handle b only4 ,the letter i indicates the connection rod for the auxiliary handle2 d is the racking handle for racking the back plate1 which plate is made to rack over usually about #ab needles4 ,the letter e is a sector of a circle attached to the frame of the machine and acts as a guide and a stop for the racking handle4 ,this may be studied to better advantage in ,fig4 #fj1 at e4 ,it has ,v-shaped notches cut at the proper intervals to correspond to the needle spacing with a ,v-shaped plunger attached to the handle so that when this plunger springs into one of the notches it brings the needle slots of the back plate into alignment with the needle slots of the front plate4 ,the secondary handle d-#a is for releasing this plunger to permit the handle to be moved4 ,it will be noted that there are holes in this sector1 one back of each notch in the edge1 and in two of these holes there are pins4 ,these pins may be placed in any desired hole and act as stops for the racking handle and in this way save the operator the trouble of stopping to count the number of notches every time he racks1 as on this class of work racking over anywhere from two to twelve needles at one time is common practice4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ei4 ,dubied ,purl ,stitch or ,links and ,links ,machine4 ,hand ,power4 ,to go back to ,fig4 #ei1 letter f is a counter for counting the rounds1 g indicates two yarn carrier stops1 one on each side of the bar or gib1 while h and h are the yarn take-up frames and springs4 ,letter j indicates the two gibs or ways on which the carriage slides1 and k is the bar for carrying the yarn carriers4 ,now to get an insight into the principle of the method of making this purl stitch we will first give our attention to ,fig4 #fc1 which is a line drawing of a needle and the two jacks which are required for each needle in their proper relative positions4 ,how ,needles ,are ,operated ,as will be surmised after looking at the drawing1 the jacks are moved forward and backward by cams operating on the butts a and a1 which project above the surface of the needle plate in the same manner as the cams operate on the needle butts in the ordinary flat machine4 ,the jacks operate the needles by catching the hook of the needles in the clutches b and b of the jacks4 ,these needles are simply passed1 so to speak1 back and forth across the throat1 between the needle plates1 from one jack to the opposite one on each course1 and in that way they reverse the direction of the draw of the loop on each course4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fj4 ,looking ,down at ,top of ,purl ,stitch ,machine4 ,we will now give our attention to ,fig4 #fb1 which shows the under or cam side of the carriage4 ,it is understood1 of course1 that lengthwise of the carriage1 or the direction of movement1 would be what is crosswise or right and left in the illustration4 ,it will be noted that the locks or stitch cam arrangement are1 on the whole1 practically the same as in the ordinary flat machine4 ,this would apply to the cams and locks including a1 h1 k and g1 also b1 i1 l and j4 ,the bridges c and d are for another purpose4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fa4 ,top of ,carriage4 ,dubied ,purl ,stitch ,machine4 ,it will be noted that while the stitch cams h and i1 also g and j1 are exactly opposite one another1 the cams a and b are not4 ,the bridges c and d have perfectly flat smooth surfaces except at points e and f1 and here they have a concave portion about one-eighth of an inch deep4 ,the space between bridge c and cam k1 also between bridge d and cam #a1 is filled by the needle gib #a1 ,fig4 #fj1 and its mate on the back1 which cannot be seen1 when the carriage is on the machine4 ,the reader should carefully study the points just gone over1 that is1 the location of the cams a and b in relation to each other1 and the bridges c and d with their concave spots e and f1 in order to fully grasp their relation to the jacks and needles in the operation of the machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fb4 ,under ,side of ,carriage ,with ,cam ,system4 ,dubied ,purl ,stitch ,machine4 ,we will now give our attention to ,fig4 #fj1 where it will be noted that the front gib #a is abnormally wide4 ,the back gib is the same1 and inasmuch as it cannot be seen we will assume that it is also marked #a and hereafter call it back gib #a4 ,just below the center1 laterally1 of the front needle plate we see a row of jack butts which are in working position4 ,in the back plate we see jack butts in every slot but they alternate with three up in working position1 and three down out of working position4 ,it should be understood clearly that any jacks that are moved to the outer edge of either plate will not operate as they are out of range of the cam system1 the same as in the ordinary flat machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fc4 ,jacks and ,needles ,used in the ,dubied ,purl ,stitch ,machine4 ,let us now bring together the needles and jacks in ,fig4 #fc1 and the needle plates in ,fig4 #fj4 ,the butts of the jacks a 7,fig4 #fc7 are what we see projecting above the needle plates in ,fig4 #fj4 ,the hump c 7,fig4 #fc7 lies under the gib #a 7,fig4 #fj74 ,the reason for having this gib extra wide is to cover this hump during most of the knitting operation in order to keep the needle captive4 ,the depth of the needle slot is just sufficient to allow this part of the jack to slide under the gib freely without any up and down play1 therefore it follows that when the hook of a needle is caught in the clutch b1 as in jack number #a in ,fig4 #fc1 that needle must move backward and forward with the jack4 ,when the jacks are moved forward to the point where the butts would be near or against the gib #a 7,fig4 #fj7 the hump c 7,fig4 #fc7 would be inside and clear of the gib #a1 toward the center of the machine1 therefore the shank of the jack being narrower than at the hump1 a slight draw on the needle would free it from the jack as the clutch d1 which holds the needle1 is beveled off for this purpose4 ,this being the case it follows that when the jacks are in this position the hooks of the needles may be easily pushed under and into the clutch b of the jacks4 ,this is how the machine is filled with needles to begin with1 or imperfect ones replaced with new4 ,it will now be necessary to study ,fig4 #fb in connection with ,figs4 #fj and #fc4 ,referring to ,fig4 #fb1 the space between the cam k and bridge c1 also cam #a and bridge d1 as noted before1 is occupied by the two gibs #a 7,fig4 #fj7 when the carriage is on the machine4 ,the bridges c and d 7,fig4 #fb7 come down to the needle plates and the surface we see is on the same plane as the under side of the gibs #a1 ,fig4 #fj4 ,we have just had the statement that when the butts of the jacks a 7,fig4 #fc7 were moved up to the outside and close to the gibs #a 7,fig4 #fj71 the hump c of the jacks would be just inside and clear of the gibs #a1 therefore could be raised sufficiently to slip the hook of a needle in or out of the clutch b of the jack4 ,this is true only at a time when the carriage is not over and operating the jacks4 ,when these are moved up to this point by the cams the hump c of the jacks would come under the bridges c and d 7,fig4 #fb71 therefore could not raise up to release the needles except at the narrow concaves marked e and f in the bridges4 ,these concaves1 it should be noted again1 are not opposite one another4 ,the distance between the top or narrow part of cam a and cam b is such that when the butts of the jacks have moved up to this point the clutch b of both of the opposed jacks cover a hook of the needle4 ,in looking at ,fig4 #fb1 the top half of the carriage would be the part covering the front needle plate and operating upon the front jacks1 and the bottom half would do likewise on the back plate4 ,when the carriage is at the left end of the machine1 when making the purl stitch the needles should be in the front plate1 and when the carriage is at the right end of the machine the needles would be in the back plate4 ,this relative position is always the same when making the purl stitch4 ,i have assumed that the reader understands that a jack and a needle together would1 when in a normal position as shown by the butts in the front needle plate in ,fig4 #fj1 reach just to the throat between the needle plates4 ,having the different parts and their relative positions in our mind we will now proceed with the modus operandi4 ,we will assume that the carriage is at the left end of the machine1 therefore the needles would be in the front needle plate and under the control of the front jacks1 as the hooks would be in the clutch b 7,fig4 #fc7 of these jacks1 while the hump c being under the gib of the needle plate will not allow the needles to escape4 ,to obviate some of the difficulties the reader may have in understanding this explanation we will assume that the carriage as shown in ,fig4 #fb is stationary1 and the plates with their jacks and needles are the parts that are moved4 ,the outline of the camway may be easily traced as it is practically the same as the ordinary flat machine with which the reader should be familiar and the action on the needles1 through the jacks1 is the same until they reach the first inside corner of the cam b4 ,if the reader will take a straight edge and lay it on the illustration1 he will find that this corner of cam b is just in line with the concave e in the bridge c1 and also with the center of the flat portion of the cam a4 ,this being the case1 it follows that the center of the flat portion of the cam b must be in line with the left inside corner of cam a and the concave f in the bridge d4 ,it should be understood that as the needles are moving across the throat between the needle plates1 the stitch or loop opens the latches1 and guards are provided to keep them open until the needles are ready to draw the new loop through the previous one4 ,now to return to where we left the needles and jacks at the right inside corner of cam b4 ,the jacks of the back plate have reached their innermost position1 and the heads or humps c 7,fig4 #fc7 lie under the bridge c 7,fig4 #fb74 ,at the point where the front jacks opposite are reaching their innermost position1 the heads or humps c of the back jacks come under the concave e1 which allows the hook of the needles1 just coming forward from the opposite plate1 to raise up the head and enter the clutch b of the jack4 ,as they move farther to the left1 the heads of these back jacks are under the plane surface of the bridge c1 which secures the needles to these jacks4 ,as the jacks start to move back toward their outermost position1 the heads of the jacks of the front plate are under the concave f of bridge d4 ,this allows the needle hooks of this end to draw out and release themselves from the jacks of this side1 and be drawn through the loop to the back plate1 and by this means to cast the previous loop off from the back plate toward the front one4 ,upon the return from left to right1 the needles are exchanged from the back plate to the front one in the same manner1 only of course1 the action is just opposite to that just explained4 ,therefore1 the needles would pass through the loop from the back to the front plate1 and cast off the previous loop from the front plate toward the back one4 ,this would make the purl stitch4 ,while the machine was designed primarily to make this purl stitch1 there can be made on it a larger variety of stitches than on any other machine1 but in general practice the stitches made are limited as a rule to the purl1 jersey and plain rib1 #a and #a1 #b and #b1 etc4 ,the term #a and #a rib means one needle in each plate alternately4 ,the term #b and #b rib means two needles together alternating in each plate without a needle working between the two from the opposite plate4 ,it is also possible to make the half or full cardigan stitch4 ,the jersey stitch may be made by one of two methods4 ,first1 when the needles are all in one plate move the jacks in the other plate to their outermost position1 where the cams of that side cannot operate on them and the needles will stay on one side as there are no jacks operating on the other side to take them across4 ,second1 by moving the handle b1 ,fig4 #fa1 to the left4 ,by doing this we would draw the cams a and b 7,fig4 #fb7 up into the cam plate out of working position1 therefore the jacks would not move to their innermost position so the needles would not move far enough forward to meet the opposite jacks and could not be taken over into the opposite plate4 ,this system of being able to operate any number of selected needles1 or all of them1 on either the purl or jersey stitch1 either alone or in combination with the rack1 is the base or principle used to make practically all the designed or pattern work produced on the ordinary purl stitch machine4 ,fig4 #fa shows the top side of the carriage4 ,the letter a indicates the handle for operating the carriage2 b is the lever for changing the stitch from purl to jersey1 or vice versa1 by raising out or putting into operation the cams a and b1 ,fig4 #fb4 ,the letter c shows the lever for changing yarn carriers while d#a and d#b are the slides for changing the length of stitch4 ,this change is made the same as has been explained for the ordinary flat machine2 that is1 by shifting the stops1 of which there are three for each stitch cam or six on each of the slides d#a and d#b4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,x ,,designs ,,on ,,plain ,,purl ,,stitch ,,machines--,,automatic ,,jacquard ,,type--,,details ,,of ,,jacquard-,,designing ,,on ,,jacquard ,,machine ,,figures #fd1 #fe and #ff show some of the design effects which may be made on the links and links system of knitting4 ,fig4 #fd is a basket weave design4 ,to make this we will assume that the machine is set up1 that is1 has work on it1 with the carriage at the left end of the machine4 ,then all the needles would be in the front plate4 ,the back plate should be racked to its last position to the right4 ,the last working jack in the back plate1 left end1 should be opposite the last needle in the front plate1 but in the right end of the back plate there should be #h jacks more than needles in the front plate4 ,now starting at the right1 count eight jacks1 which leave in operating position2 then draw five back out of operating position2 leave eleven in operation1 and drawn five out4 ,alternate in this way with eleven in work and five out for the length of the work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fd4 ,basket ,weave ,design ,made on ,purl ,stitch ,hand ,machine4 ,after doing this the position of the jacks would be similar to those shown in the back plate in ,fig4 #fj1 except that that illustration showed three in and three out1 while we would have eleven in work and five out in the present instance4 ,the three rules marked m1 shown in ,fig4 #fj1 are used for this purpose4 ,they save the time of counting the jacks and drawing them back one or two at a time4 ,by the use of one of these rules1 properly cut1 all of the jacks to be put out of operation may be moved back in one sweep4 ,to go back to our design1 set the pin shown in the arc e1 ,fig4 #fj1 to stop the racking handle at eight needles1 put on six courses or three rounds1 stopping with the carriage on the left1 which will leave all the needles in the front plate1 and rack the back plate to eight needles to the left4 ,put on three more rounds and rack the eight needles to the right1 and continue doing this4 ,it should be understood that the back plate should never be racked over more than two needles except when all the needles are in the front plate4 ,i have previously explained that when the cams are set for purl stitch1 if the jacks are in the operating position in both plates we would make the purl stitch1 but in any place where the jacks were drawn back out of operating position in one plate1 in that place the needles would at all times stay in the opposite plate and knit the plain jersey stitch4 ,now in this basket design we have in the back plate1 disregarding the first eight jacks1 five jacks that are not operating alternating with eleven that are4 ,therefore1 the first three rounds would make purl stitch on eleven needles alternating with five making plain jersey stitch4 ,when we rack the plate over eight needles we find that the five slots with the non-working jacks of the back plate are just opposite the middle five needles of the eleven that have been making purl stitch1 and are1 of course1 at the time of racking in the front plate4 ,we also find that the five needles that have been making the jersey stitch in consequence of having been opposite the five non-working jacks in the back plate1 are now opposite the middle five of the eleven working jacks of the back plate4 ,therefore it is plain that these five needles would make purl stitch for the next three rounds1 while the middle five needles of the eleven that were making purl stitch would make jersey in the next three rounds4 ,there are always three needles on each side of the five that are racked over that purl stitch all the time4 ,two and ,two ,rib ,fig4 #fe shows two designs the lower one being very simple4 ,with the carriage on the left end of the machine arrange the jacks in the back plate two and two1 or two in working position and two out4 ,then move the carriage across to the right end of the machine and we will find that the needles have arranged themselves to conform to the arrangement of the back jacks1 alternating two and two in both needle plates4 ,now move the handle b1 ,fig4 #fa1 to the left and this will raise cams a and b1 ,fig4 #fb1 up into the cam plate out of operation1 thus preventing the jacks from moving to their innermost position4 ,therefore1 they cannot exchange needles and so would make a two and two rib fabric1 knitting this continuously without any further change4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fe4 ,diagonal ,diamond ,design and ,two and ,two ,rib ,made on ,hand ,purl ,stitch ,machine4 ,the upper half of ,fig4 #fe is made by arranging the jacks in the back needle plate so that five will be in working position1 alternating with five out4 ,with this arrangement of the jacks1 and without any further manipulation1 the machine would knit a straight vertical stripe of five needles purl stitch and five needles plain jersey stitch4 ,if1 however1 we rack the back needle over one needle every round when the carriage is at the left end of the machine1 and all the needles are in the front plate1 for five rounds we would have these stripes running diagonally instead of vertically1 and the distance they would run to the right or left1 depending on which way we racked1 would depend on how many times we racked in one direction4 ,in this instance it would be for seven rounds1 or rather we would rack over in the one direction every round for six rounds1 and on the seventh we would rack the plate back the five needles at once4 ,then start over racking the other way one needle each round as before to make the second row of diagonal blocks4 ,this racking back of five needles at one time would of course bring the non-working jacks to the position where the working jacks were1 and the working jacks to the position where the non-working jacks were4 ,therefore1 the needles that were knitting the purl stitch would begin making plain jersey1 while the needles that were making plain jersey would now make purl stitch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ff4 ,two and ,two ,rib ,racked1 ,made on ,purl ,stitch ,machine4 ,fig4 #ff is simply a two and two rib stitch racked over two needles every four rounds4 ,this racking over two needles with needles in both plates may be done successfully if the stitch is drawn fairly long4 ,automatic ,jacquard ,power ,purl ,stitch ,machine ,the automatic links and links or purl stitch machine is what the name would imply2 that is1 a machine which makes the changes in the stitch and yarn carriers automatically4 ,the word jacquard added to this would convey to the mind of a person familiar with textile processes the fact that the machine automatically makes designs or patterns in the process of knitting4 ,fig4 #fg shows a ,dubied machine of this type which in general appearance resembles their automatic power flat machine4 ,it has the same drum device for counting the rounds1 indicated at d1 with a chain drive somewhat similar to the flat machine1 though with this difference3 ,the carriage is connected directly to the chain through a cross head which slides on two rods1 instead of through a connection rod4 ,we have the main chain1 at e1 on this machine as on the flat machine1 but it is placed on the right end instead of the left4 ,the racking chains which are on the flat machine are not needed on this machine1 therefore are dispensed with4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fg4 ,dubied ,power ,automatic ,jacquard ,purl ,stitch or ,links and ,links ,machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fh4 ,cross ,section of ,pair ,purl ,stitch ,machine ,plates ,with ,card ,cylinder and ,their ,relative ,positions4 ,on the ordinary purl stitch machine a large part of the designing is done by a combination of selected jacks in conjunction with the rack2 therefore it is desirable to have such a machine built to rack over quite a number of needles4 ,with this machine the designs are made on the jacquard system1 therefore this extreme racking is not required and the machine is built to rack but two needles4 ,at a and b in ,fig4 #fg will be noted two cylinders with grooves cut on a long spiral4 ,they are mounted on a small shaft which acts as a bearing upon which they turn4 ,these operate the jacquard system and should be kept well in mind as they will be referred to later4 ,the letter c indicates the carriage1 which is shown1 top and bottom1 in detail in ,figs4 #fi and #gj4 ,fig4 #fi1 it will be noted1 is the same in the general layout of the cam system as shown for the hand machines in ,fig4 #fb1 in the last article4 ,the upper locks would operate on the front plate and the lower ones on the back one4 ,there are two main points of difference3 ,the cam x1 which must be used in connection with the cards of the jacquard system and which will be taken up in detail in due course1 and the levers s and t which raise the stitch cams that are in the lead and lower the ones that follow and form the stitch at the end of each course4 ,this is done to take all undue strain off the stitch4 ,it will be noted in the illustration that the left stitch cams are raised and the right ones lowered preparatory to putting on a course by moving the carriage from right to left4 ,at the left end of the machine the position of these cams is reversed for the return course4 ,this is done by a pin set at both ends of the two plates which act on the levers s and t4 ,then we have the extensions of the slides4 ,numbers #a and #c are for changing the length of the stitch4 ,slides #b and #e are for raising and lowering cams a and b to change from purl to plain jersey stitch1 or vice versa4 ,the manner of doing this and the action of these cams on the needles and jacks have been explained4 ,slide #d puts the plunger y into and out of operation4 ,this plunger operates the jacquard system by entering the spiral grooves of and turning the cylinders a and b1 ,fig4 #fg4 ,the four slides marked #f1 ,figs4 #fi and #gj1 are for changing the yarn carriers1 of which there are four4 ,the four small parts indicated by the letter m1 ,fig4 #fi1 are latch openers1 which are essential as the machine cannot be operated when the latches are closed4 ,we would be unable to move the carriage across the machine when there was no fabric on the needles to open the latches1 without these latch openers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fi4 ,under ,side of ,carriage of ,automatic ,jacquard ,purl ,stitch ,machine4 ,the small slide indicated at #g is for changing the position of the cam x1 swinging on a pivot screw at z1 which may be moved to any one of three positions4 ,these are the position shown1 or horizontal with the lower edge of1 and on a line with the lower edge of cams w and r1 or it may be swung down to a point where the end will be at the lower edge of the cam plate at v4 ,the three positions of this cam should be firmly fixed in mind1 as they have an important part to play in the jacquard work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gj4 ,top ,side of ,carriage of ,automatic ,jacquard ,purl ,stitch ,machine4 ,we will now give our attention to ,fig4 #fh1 which represents a cross section of the needle plates1 showing a pair of jacks and a needle in their respective slots or tricks4 ,letter a indicates the back plate and b the front one4 ,the back jack c is shown in its outermost position1 therefore would be out of operation1 while the dotted lines at h show its innermost position ready to receive the needle from the opposite jack4 ,letters e and f indicate the gibs which cover and hold down the heads of the jacks at all times except when they are at their innermost position2 when they are in this position they are under and held down by the bridges or winkles c and d1 ,fig4 #fi1 and are permitted to rise only at the concaves e and f where the exchange of needles takes place4 ,letter g1 ,fig4 #fh1 indicates the needle1 and i is a vertical projection1 called teeth1 which are between the needles and act as sinkers for the needles to draw the loops over4 ,the ,jacquard ,mechanism ,the jacquard system of designing is simply a method of providing means to select and put into operation any desired needle or needles at any predetermined place in the fabric4 ,the mechanism to do this is shown in ,fig4 #fh4 ,the letter l indicates a four cornered star shaped bar called the card cylinder1 which is the length of the needle plate4 ,the letter j indicates what are called cards and are also the same length as the needle plate and as wide as one side of the card cylinder4 ,these are made from either thin sheets of steel or from stiff strong paper board1 and are attached to one another by rings or other means so as to form a continuous band around the card cylinder4 ,the illustration shows ten of these cards1 but the number used depends on the design being made1 for there is one card for each round in the design4 ,to return to the card cylinder l1 this is mounted on a shaft which is supported by two uprights or arms1 one at each end1 shown by the broken lines at n1 which in turn are attached securely to the rocker shaft m4 ,this arrangement permits the card cylinder to be swung forward to the needle plate and back to the position shown at any predetermined time or place4 ,as noted before1 the back jack c is out of working position1 therefore as long as it stays in this position the needle would operate in the front plate only and make a plain jersey fabric4 ,if1 when the carriage is at the left end of the machine1 we should swing the card cylinder with the blank card j1 ,no4 #a 7which is a card without any openings in it7 up to the needle plate1 it would push these back jacks up into working position and on the next course the needles would cross over into the back plate and make the purl stitch4 ,now bear in mind that the basic principle of designing of this character is in making the design of one stitch and the ground of the other4 ,it is quite obvious that if we provide means to sweep all the back jacks to their outermost positions and out of operation every time the carriage is moved from the right to the left end of the machine after having passed the needles across to the front plate1 then swing a card with holes cut through at certain intervals up to the needle plate1 those jacks that come into contact with that part of the card that is intact would be pushed into working position1 while those that were in front of the openings or holes would pass through and not be affected4 ,therefore1 on the next round the needles opposite these would make the jersey stitch1 while all the others would make purl stitch4 ,on the last course of the round from right to left the jacks would be swept back out of operation1 the card cylinder l would be turned a quarter turn1 bringing another card opposite the needle plate1 and another and perhaps different lot of jacks selected for the next round4 ,the card cylinder is turned the quarter turn when the carriage is approaching the right end of the machine by the plunger y1 ,fig4 #gj1 engaging the spiral in the cylinder b1 ,fig4 #fg1 and the cards are moved up to the needle plate when the carriage approaches the left end of the machine by this same plunger engaging the spiral in cylinder a4 ,at k in ,fig4 #fh1 is shown the face of a portion of a card as it might be cut4 ,beginning at the opening at the left1 the heels of three jacks would pass through this4 ,the space next to the right1 being intact1 would push six jacks into operation2 and so on throughout the length of the fragment of the card shown as indicated by the figures4 ,this drawing was made to represent a card to be used on a needle plate cut eight needles to one inch1 and while the scale is cut down somewhat in the reproduction the proportions would remain the same4 ,now as to the means provided to make the changes shown as necessary we will refer again to ,fig4 #fi1 and to the cam marked x4 ,as stated before1 this cam may be swung on the pivot screw z1 automatically1 to any one of three positions4 ,when it is in alignment with cams w and r it has no effect1 as when the jacks are in their normal knitting position the butts will pass just above and when they are out of working position they will pass just under these three cams4 ,now it will be noted that cam x is placed at the extreme right end of this lock or set of cams1 in consequence of which it must always be put into operation when the carriage is at the right end of the machine1 and it performs its functions as the carriage is moved to the left and after the stitch formation of this course is completed4 ,the cam is moved into the desired position by the slide #g1 which comes in contact with movable stops at either end of the machine4 ,when the jacquard system is in operation this cam would be moved to the position shown in the illustration while the carriage was on the right1 consequently as the carriage is moved to the left end of the machine the needles in the back plate would be passed to the front plate and immediately after this the back jacks would be swept out of the operating position by this cam4 ,when the carriage reached the left end of the machine this cam would be moved down in alignment with cams w and r1 so would be in the position that would not make any change in the position of the jacks4 ,in making some kinds of work it is desirable to put all the back jacks in and out of operation at certain times4 ,we have just explained about putting them out of operation4 ,to put all of them in the working position without using the jacquard the before mentioned movable stop comes in contact with another slide just under slide #g1 when the carriage is moved to the right end of the machine1 and this slide will swing the point of cam x to its lowest position at v1 and in this position1 as the carriage is moved to the left1 it will sweep all the back jacks into working position ready for the next course4 ,as the carriage finishes its travel to the left1 the stop at that end would of course move this cam to its neutral point4 ,i assume that the reader understands that the stops and levers that cause all these automatic changes are controlled by studs attached in their proper places on the chain e1 ,fig4 #fg1 which in turn is controlled by the drum d4 ,we will now take up in more detail the action of the cards and the mechanism provided to actuate them4 ,as stated before1 when making a design by this system the card cylinder1 together with the cards1 is moved up to the edge of the needle plate each round4 ,referring to ,fig4 #fg1 at a-#a there is an eccentric attached to the movable cylinder a1 and there is a connection rod from this eccentric to the small shaft o1 ,fig4 #fh4 ,therefore1 when the plunger y1 ,fig4 #gj1 enters the spiral groove and moves the length of the cylinder a1 ,fig4 #fg1 the cylinder turns about half way round1 which of course turns the eccentric a-#a1 and this moves the card j1 ,no4 #a1 ,fig4 #fh1 up to the needle plate4 ,as noted before1 any part of this card that has holes in it could not push those1 jacks opposite into working position1 while that part of the card which remained intact would put the jacks opposed to it in work4 ,upon the return of the carriage it turns the cylinder a1 ,fig4 #fg1 back to its first position1 which movement would of course move the cards away from the needle plate again4 ,the cylinder b is actuated in the same manner as cylinder a as the carriage reaches the right end of the machine1 but its function is to turn the card cylinder a quarter turn each time in order to bring a new card into position for the next round and make that part of the design4 ,how ,designing ,is ,done ,having explained the theory of making designs on the jacquard system we will now show in detail how it is done in actual practice4 ,with the jacquard system there is no limit or end to the designs that may be made1 as there is with the other systems used on knitting machines4 ,fig4 #ga is a photographic reproduction of a design made on this machine4 ,the reader who has studied well and thoroughly digested what has gone before will realize that this design could not be made in any other way1 on a machine of this type1 without an expenditure of time and labor which would be far beyond the bounds of practicability4 ,the designer will first sketch out his design on a piece of plain paper1 then take a piece of cross section paper and lay it down as illustrated in ,fig4 #gb4 ,this is the layout of the design shown in ,fig4 #ga4 ,each of the crosswise rows of squares represents one round or two courses1 and each of the vertical rows represents a wale or needle4 ,in other words each one of the squares in a crosswise row represents a needle or the loops in one round1 and each one of the succeeding squares represents that same needle in the succeeding rounds4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ga4 ,design ,made on ,automatic ,jacquard ,purl ,stitch ,machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gb4 ,layout of ,design ,shown in ,fig4 #ga4 ,now to cut the cards we would start with ,no4 #a and cut them consecutively4 ,referring to ,fig4 #gb1 the blank squares1 or the spaces in the cards these represent1 should be cut out1 and the squares marked with an x would remain intact4 ,starting at the right side1 one needle space is not cut out2 then sufficient space to cover three needles or jacks is cut out2 then the space of eleven jacks is left intact1 then three cut out4 ,this is the full width of the first round of the design1 therefore this cutting would be repeated until it covers the desired width of fabric4 ,card ,no4 #b would be cut as follows3 ,one space cut1 one left intact1 three cut out1 nine left intact1 three cut out1 and one left intact4 ,this should be repeated as with ,no4 #a card4 ,each card thereafter should be cut according to the marking of the cross section paper1 and numbered as cut1 so as to avoid trouble in assembling them in their proper order when finished4 ,it should be understood that the part of this layout from the right side to the dotted line is the complete design1 and all to the left as well as above and below1 would be a duplicate of this4 ,after these cards are put on the card cylinder1 attached like an endless belt1 and the machine is in operation1 when card ,no4 #ah has finished the last part of the design1 card ,no4 #a will start immediately in the next round on its part of the design4 ,when it comes to card ,no4 #f1 that square will have been completed1 and a new square in the center section will have been started4 ,the two-tone color effect is made by using two different colored yarns and using a plating yarn carrier4 ,this throws one color on the face in the jersey stitch and the other color on the face in the purl stitch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gc4 ,claes and ,flentje ,automatic ,narrowing ,machine4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xi ,,flat ,,latch ,,needle ,,automatic ,,narrowing ,,machine ,,the flat latch needle automatic narrowing machine as built by ,messrs4 ,claes ,flentje is shown in ,fig4 #gc1 and a piece of fabric from this machine narrowed down fourteen needles is shown in ,fig4 #gd4 ,this machine is quite complicated when compared with any that have been taken up before1 but those who have studied what has gone before carefully1 especially that part treating on fashioned garments and how they are made by hand1 should have no trouble in understanding the principles and movements necessary to do this work automatically4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gd4 ,fabric ,narrowed ,down on ,automatic ,narrowing ,machine4 ,the machine shown is really four separate and complete units mounted upon one frame or stand and driven by one belt1 with the automatic movements operated from one control4 ,it is evident from this that the garments or parts of garments made on each one of these four units must be the same1 or rather they must have the same number of rounds with the same number of needles narrowed down1 but they may be made from different yarns both in kind and color4 ,there are four points that should be understood to begin with3 ,first1 the machine is operated by power4 ,second1 the power is transmitted to the driving pulley on the machine at all times when the machine is being operated4 ,third1 the knitting mechanism must be stopped while the narrowing mechanism is in operation4 ,fourth1 the narrowing mechanism must be at rest during the time the knitting mechanism is in operation4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ge4 ,changing ,mechanism on ,right ,end of ,automatic ,narrowing ,machine4 ,we will first show how it is arranged to automatically stop one part of the machine1 say the knitting operation1 and put the narrowing mechanism in work1 and after this part has performed its functions or narrowed down one needle on each needle plate1 front and back1 how it is stopped until time to narrow again1 and the knitting parts set in operation4 ,fig4 #ge is a view of the right end of the machine1 and it is here that the driving mechanism is located1 also the automatic controls4 ,the number #a indicates the belt and pulley which drive the machine4 ,the pulley is mounted loose upon the shaft and operates the machine through a clutch which is thrown in or out1 as the case may be1 by the handles marked x in ,fig4 #gc4 ,the number #ac 7,fig4 #ge7 indicates a plain balance wheel on the outside end of the shaft4 ,when the clutch is in1 the driving wheel on which the belt #a runs will of course turn the shaft #b1 on the other end of which there is a small spur gear which drives the large gear #c4 ,this large gear is automatically connected with1 and disconnected from the crank wheel #e1 which wheel drives the knitting mechanism through the connecting rod #f and lever y1 ,fig4 #gc1 whose fulcrum is at s1 and is connected to an extension of the carriage at r4 ,the lever y comes up between two ways or slides1 on which is mounted a crosshead at the end of this extension1 and where the lever connects at r1 to keep the extension in alignment with the carriages4 ,referring to ,fig4 #ge1 when the machine is being operated the following parts are always in motion3 ,the driving wheel #a with the shaft #b1 together with the small spur gear on the end of the shaft #b1 which cannot be seen but drives the large gear #c1 also the large gear #c with the shaft upon which it is mounted1 which may be seen running behind the vertical connecting straps toward the right of the illustration and terminates back of the large bevel gear #d4 ,upon this end of the shaft there is mounted a small bevel or pinion gear to drive the large bevel gear #d4 ,now then let us understand that the crank wheel #e operates the knitting mechanism of the machine1 and the bevel gear #d1 through a shaft which runs the entire length of the machine with a series of cams mounted on it1 operates the narrowing mechanism4 ,we have seen that the driving parts from the driving pulley #a on the back of the machine1 over to and including the large gear #c1 and back to and including the small bevel gear which drives the large bevel gear #d are in motion at all times while the machine is in operation4 ,the gear #d is engaged with the small gear only at the time the narrowing is done2 while the crank wheel is connected with the large spur gear #c and turning only while the knitting parts are in operation4 ,the connection between the crank wheel #e and the gear #c is simply a key-like lever which may be disconnected by lifting out of place and connected again by dropping back1 though there is only one place on the circumference of the wheel where it can connect the two together4 ,control of ,fashioning ,mechanism ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gf4 ,needles and ,decker ,points ,used on the ,automatic ,narrowing ,machine4 ,the method of starting and stopping the narrowing or fashioning mechanism is quite a novel and ingenious arrangement4 ,to explain it we will refer to ,fig4 #ha4 ,the number #d indicates the bevel gear shown at #d in ,fig4 #ge1 and #d-;a is the small pinion a part of which may be seen in ,fig4 #ge4 ,the larger bevel gear #d has a small space 7three or four teeth7 cut away so it acts somewhat on the principle of an intermittent gear4 ,when the small pinion #d-;a comes to this spot the large gear #d will of course stop4 ,this gear is mounted on the shaft #i1 which may be seen under the same designation in ,figs4 #gi and #hj1 which is a continuation of this shaft4 ,it 7the gear #d7 is shown in ,fig4 #ha in the position where it would be at rest as the small pinion #d-;a would be turning free and clear on account of the teeth of the large gear being cut away at this point4 ,it will be noted that there is a pin extending from one side of the hub of the small pinion gear #d-;a4 ,on the back of gear #d there is attached a box-like arrangement with the lever #d-;b passing through it1 which is pivoted at p and is held out in the position shown by a spring4 ,outside and near the outer end of this lever #d-;b is another ,l-shaped lever #d-;d1 which is pivoted at m to the frame of the machine4 ,it is plain that when the lever #d-;b is moved in the path of the pin #d-;c1 which is turning at all times with the pinion #d-;a1 by the right-angled lever #d-;d1 the gear #d will be moved forward far enough for the teeth of the pinion to engage with the teeth of the large gear4 ,consequently1 the gear #d would turn one complete revolution1 or until the place which has the teeth cut out is again adjacent to the pinion1 and it would stop at this point4 ,this one revolution of the gear #d completes the execution of one narrowing operation or the narrowing down of one needle on each needle plate4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gg4 ,top of ,automatic ,narrowing ,machine4 ,referring to ,fig4 #ge1 number #aa indicates the lever or slide which is the means provided to make the shift from fashioning to knitting1 and vice versa4 ,when this slide is at its furthermost position toward the back of the machine it is held there by a catch1 and the knitting mechanism would be in operation while the fashioning mechanism would be at rest4 ,but immediately the slide is released from the catch1 which is done by a stud on the chain #ab1 a spring brings it forward and a release bar1 by means of an inclined plane1 is set to disconnect the large gear #c 7,fig4 #ge7 from the crank wheel #e1 when it gets to the point where the carriages are at the extreme right end of the needle plates as shown in ,figs4 #gg and #gh4 ,at the same time it raises up the right-angled lever #d-;d 7,fig4 #ha7 which throws in the lever #d-;b1 and this of course starts the fashioning mechanism to work4 ,just as the gear #d with the cam shaft #i completes its one revolution the slide is set back again1 which permits the gear #c to connect with the crank shaft and the gear #d stops as the cut out teeth come opposite the small pinion4 ,the several vertical straps which may be seen at or near the center of ,fig4 #ge are the mediums through which the automatic changes are made by studs coming under and raising them4 ,these studs are attached in their several positions on the chain #ab4 ,we will not go into these further1 for while the construction is somewhat different from what we have had1 the principle is the same4 ,as the studs on the chain come under the straps1 they raise them up and this moves a stop in the path of the different slides which changes the locks1 yarn carriers1 etc4 ,the ,actual ,narrowing ,operation ,it will be remembered that in narrowing by hand there were three lines of movement of the decker or narrowing comb4 ,but lines of movement should not be confused with direction of movement4 ,an object may be moved in one line1 but if moved back and forth on that line it would move in two directions4 ,the three lines of movement are as follows3 ,first1 it is moved in a line parallel with an extension of the line of a needle lengthwise1 or same as the arrows #a and #b in ,fig4 #hb4 ,we would move it on this line1 and in the direction of arrow #a to bring the openings in the point of the decker directly over or above the hooks of the needles4 ,second1 it would be moved up and down at right angles to its first movement1 and in the direction indicated by arrow #d to place the openings in the decker points on the hooks of the needles4 ,with the hooks of the needles caught in these openings the decker would move again on its first line1 and in the direction indicated by arrow #b to the point where the latches are above the loops4 ,then the deckers push the needles down on the same line1 but in the direction indicated by arrow #a to the point where the loops on the needles will close the latches and drop over the hooks on to the decker points4 ,then the points raise up with the loops on them1 on the second line again1 but in the direction indicated by arrow #c1 to clear the needle hooks4 ,now we have the third line of movement1 which is in toward the other end of the needle plate1 as indicated by arrow #e1 the distance of one needle space carrying the loops on the decker points4 ,then they move down on the second line in the direction indicated by arrow #d1 catch the needle hooks in the openings of the decker points1 draw back on first line1 direction of arrow #b to the point where the loops will slip off the decker points on to the needles again4 ,the decker then raises up and retires to its point of rest4 ,this will leave one empty needle at the end1 which is drawn down out of working position by means which will be explained later4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gh4 ,front of ,automatic ,narrowing ,machine4 ,the knitting mechanism is now started in operation1 and after putting on the proper number of rounds it stops and the narrowing proceeds as before4 ,if this explanation of the movements of the decker has been followed carefully by the reader1 he will see that there are but three lines of movement in the whole narrowing operation proper1 though on two of these lines the movement is in opposite directions at different times4 ,to do this automatically only three sources must be provided for the several movements1 as the opposite direction of movements on the same lines come as a matter of course1 otherwise there could be but one movement in any direction on one line4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gi4 ,back of ,automatic ,narrowing ,machine ,showing ,shaft ,carrying ,cams for ,automatic ,movements4 ,view from ,right ,end of ,machine4 ,the source of all of these movements is the shaft upon which the bevel gear 7,figs4 #ge and #ha7 is mounted and is designated by the number #i in ,figs4 #ge1 #gi and #hj4 ,it may be plainly seen in the illustrations with its irregular surfaced cams which perform this work4 ,figs4 #gi and #hj are views of the back of the machine1 both showing the same parts1 but ,fig4 #gi is a view looking from the right end1 or end upon which the driving mechanism is mounted1 while ,fig4 #hj is a view from the other or left end looking toward the driving wheel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hj4 ,showing the ,same ,cam ,shaft as ,shown in ,fig4 #gi but from ,left ,end of the ,machine4 ,mounting of the ,deckers ,we will take up the manner of mounting the deckers and the auxiliary parts through the medium of which the narrowing is done4 ,referring to ,fig4 #gg1 the decker points may be seen at a1 a1 mounted in a clamp in much the same manner as the hand deckers were mounted4 ,the decker points1 however1 are somewhat different from those used in the hand decker1 these latter being solid1 either flat or round1 while those on the automatic machine are half-round or ,u-shaped1 as shown in ,fig4 #gf1 to facilitate placing them on the hooks of the needles4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ha4 ,gear ,arrangement for ,starting and ,stopping the ,narrowing ,mechanism4 ,before proceeding any further1 it should be understood that the narrowing is done on both sets of needles1 front and back1 by two separate deckers1 therefore most of the parts connected with this operation that are shown and described1 except the cam shaft #i and its appurtenances1 are in duplicate on front and back of the machine4 ,the decker point clamp is a part of a yoke which is clamped on the two rods b and c 7,fig4 #gg7 tight enough to permit no play1 yet not so tight but that it will slide freely endwise on the two rods4 ,there are four of these on each side1 front and back1 or two for each independent pair of plates and locks4 ,the rods b and c run the whole length of the machine and have no end movement1 but b is free to move up and down vertically1 while c acts simply as a rocker shaft or pivot upon which to swing the rod b1 together with the clamp and decker a4 ,the rod c is mounted through and near the end of the arm d1 which in its turn is mounted or pivoted on the rocker shaft #ac1 ,fig4 #gh1 where the whole arm may be noted4 ,in ,fig4 #gc the whole five arms that are on the front of the machine may be seen4 ,these arms are connected with a lever beneath the needle plates and frame by two flexible straps shown at f1 ,fig4 #gg4 ,the lever to which the other end of these straps are attached may be seen at #a1 ,fig4 #hj1 also the extension of the arm d1 at d-#a4 ,the spring which is attached to this extension with the other end attached to a like extension on the opposite arm d1 is shown at d-#b4 ,this spring provides the energy to return the arms to1 and hold them in the position shown in ,fig4 #gg1 after the narrowing operation is completed4 ,to get the endwise movement of the decker1 or the movement we have designated as #a and #b in ,fig4 #hb1 we will refer again to ,fig4 #hj and the lever #a4 ,this lever is pivoted on the shaft #ab and passes under the shaft #i4 ,at the point where it passes under to one side of the irregular cam d-#c there is a stud with a roller projecting from one side which comes under and in contact with the cam d-#c4 ,we have seen that there is always an upward pull on this lever #a through the springs d-#b1 and the extension d-#a1 the arm proper d1 and the straps f 7,fig4 #gg71 back down through the center of the machine to the inner end of lever #a1 ,fig4 #hj4 ,now it follows1 that if the periphery of this cam d-#c is irregular1 and the spring d-#b always holds the pin with the roller on the side of lever #a1 in close contact with the outside of this cam1 then by having the periphery vary1 or at different distances from the center at different points1 the deckers may be moved to any point or held at any point in a line lengthwise with the decker points by making the irregularities at the proper place and at the proper distance from the center4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hb4 ,lines of ,movement ,necessary for ,narrowing4 ,the explanation of this movement applies to all of the automatic movements for narrowing or fashioning on this machine4 ,inasmuch as all these irregular cams for the different movements are mounted on this same shaft #i1 after once being set right they must always be in synchronism unless the setting is disturbed by accident4 ,we have seen how the first movement is secured to bring the openings in the decker points down to a point directly over the needle hooks4 ,we have assumed that they were in a line sidewise to begin with4 ,now we will see how the second movement1 or bringing the deckers down on to the hooks of the needles after being moved directly over them1 and lifting them off again1 is accomplished4 ,second and ,third ,movements ,referring to ,fig4 #gg1 it has been explained how the decker points with their clamp a and yoke are mounted on the rods b and c in such a manner that they will swing freely with the rod c acting as a pivot4 ,referring to ,fig4 #gh1 we find that the rods c and b have another yoke at i1 which is attached securely to these rods1 with a short extension toward the outside of the machine on which to attach the connection rod h4 ,if we now turn to ,fig4 #gi1 we will find that the connection rod h comes down and is attached at the other end to a lever at j4 ,while1 as the reader may surmise1 the connection rod h1 ,fig4 #gh1 is on the front of the machine1 and the rod h1 ,fig4 #gi1 is on the back1 the connections and manner of moving are the same4 ,the lever to which this connection rod h 7,fig4 #gi7 is attached at j is mounted on the shaft #ac1 so as to swing up and down freely1 and has an extension on the other side of the shaft from which there is another rod connecting it with the inside end of lever #b4 ,this lever has the proper movements imparted to it through the pin and roller1 which may be plainly seen1 resting on the periphery of an irregular cam1 just the same as has been explained for lever #a for the first movement1 except that the pin and roller rest on the top of the cam in this instance1 while in the former case the pin and roller were held firmly up against the bottom of the cam by a coil spring4 ,the third movement to carry the loops in toward the center one needle1 designated in ,fig4 #hb as #e1 is a straight line movement and always in one direction4 ,but the movement as to distance must be more exact than either of the others1 therefore while the source of the movement is the same as the others1 an irregular cam on the cam shaft #i1 the transmission of it to the deckers is accomplished in an entirely different manner4 ,fine ,adjustment ,necessary ,we will refer again to ,fig4 #gg1 where we will find two long flat steel straps1 one on each side of the machine1 marked e and e4 ,it will be noted that these straps are attached securely to the yokes that carry the deckers1 as well as to the crossheads or bridges marked l and m4 ,reaching across from one to the other and attached to these bridges is a yoke the two arms of which are indicated by k and k4 ,these two arms come together at the center in a hub through which runs the worm or screw indicated by g4 ,on the outer end of this worm is a small spur gear which meshes into the gear h4 ,back of the gear h is a ratchet gear1 and both are rigidly attached to the small shaft and turn together4 ,now it is quite evident that if the ratchet and gear marked h are turned in the right direction1 which would be the top toward the right1 this would turn the worm1 which would move the yoke k and k1 together with the bridges l and m1 also the straps e and e1 and they1 of course1 would move the deckers4 ,the principle of the worm or screw used to make this movement permits an almost micrometer adjustment of the distance moved4 ,to find the method used to turn the ratchet gear and spur gear h1 we will refer again to ,fig4 #ge1 where the ratchet gear is marked y and its pawl n4 ,this will hardly need an explanation1 as the method of working may be plainly seen by following out the pawl lever to the connection rod x1 and down to the lever #h1 which is raised the proper distance at just the proper time by the cam directly under it1 and in this manner turns the ratchet4 ,in narrowing1 when it comes to the point where the decker is to be placed on the needle hooks1 it is imperative that the latches of those needles on which the transferring is to be done are all open1 otherwise the decker will not catch the hook4 ,also after narrowing down one needle1 the empty needle must be drawn down out of the operating position4 ,the manner of doing this is as follows3 ,the needles used in this machine have an extension of the shank1 and on the lower end of this there is another butt as shown at b1 ,fig4 #gf4 ,this extra butt is there solely for the manipulation of the needles for this purpose4 ,just before the decker is ready to drop on to the needle hooks1 the needles are pushed up part way to meet it by the hoe-shaped part designated by the letter o in ,fig4 #gh4 ,this hoe is attached to the block p1 which in its turn is attached to the long steel strap #ag1 then the whole is mounted on a slide directly beneath the strap upon which it may slide lengthwise of the machine4 ,the slide is attached to the connecting strap #ai1 the other end of which is attached to the lever #bj1 therefore the hoe o and the block p may be moved lengthwise of the machine by the strap #ag1 and the whole1 including the slide beneath and the connecting strap #ai1 may be moved up and down on a line with the movement of the needles by swinging the lever #bj1 which is pivoted on the rod #ah4 ,as the deckers make their first movement down to align the openings over the needle hooks1 the hoe o is moved upward by the lever #bj1 and1 inasmuch as it is directly under and contiguous to the lower butts of the needles1 it will push those needles up ahead of it to the point where the loops will open and lie across the latches1 thus leaving the needle hooks free to receive the deckers4 ,the hoe then retires while the deckers push the needles down1 but is used a number of times in the same manner to assist the deckers in the manipulation of the needles during the narrowing operation4 ,in the meantime it is moved over toward the center of the machine at the same time the deckers are1 as it also is connected with the yoke k and k1 ,fig4 #gg4 ,as the deckers are finishing their part of the work1 the hoe is moved upward again and a hooked finger1 which lies just at the right and is almost wholly concealed by the hoe1 hooks over the empty needle butt and draws the needle down out of the operating position as the hoe retires to the position shown4 ,the fabric photograph shown in ,fig4 #gd is part of a storm collar made for a ,shaker sweater4 ,the wide part is that part of the collar that covers from the top of the shoulder down to where the narrowing stops at the center of the breast4 ,the narrow strip is a part of the border on the front opening upon which is placed the buttons and button-holes4 ,it is narrowed down five needles1 with four rounds between in the first part1 while the last part has nine narrowings with one round between4 ,on this machine1 while the narrowing is all automatic1 after each garment or part is finished it is necessary to reset the machine by hand1 that is1 push up those needles that have been narrowed down1 move the deckers and hoe back to the starting point by turning the crank i1 ,fig4 #gg1 then move the carriages across and put in either a comb1 or a hook made specially for this purpose1 to hold down the stitches on the needles just pushed up into working position4 ,letter j indicates the yarn leading into the yarn carrier4 ,the numbers #ae in ,figs4 #gi and #hj indicate the board or stand upon which the yarn is placed for use in the machine4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,chapter ,,xii ,,the ,,flat ,,jacquard ,,machine--,,how ,,it ,,differs ,,from ,,the ,,purl ,,stitch ,,jacquard ,,machine--,,type ,,of ,,fabric ,,produced--,,methods ,,of ,,needle ,,selection--,,difference ,,between ,,single ,,jacquard ,,and ,,double ,,jacquard--,,explanation ,,of ,,design ,,and ,,pattern ,,cards ,,so far as the knitting mechanism is concerned1 the flat jacquard machine is designed and constructed along the same lines as the ordinary flat machine1 with the card cylinder for cards and the other necessary appurtenances added4 ,fig4 #hc is a general view of a ,dubied jacquard machine1 which is semi-automatic but operated by hand4 ,this illustration and the other photographs for this chapter were secured through the courtesy of ,d4 ,nusbaum ,co4 ,the card cylinder and cards are practically the same as used on the purl stitch machine and explained in a former chapter1 but obviously the application must be somewhat different owing to the different construction and manner of operating the needles in this machine4 ,inasmuch as there are two sets of needles opposed one to the other1 and each set forms the stitches which show on their respective sides of the fabric1 it is possible and customary to make the designs in solid colors1 differing in this respect from the links and links or purl stitch machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hc4 ,dubied ,automatic ,jacquard ,flat ,bed ,machine4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hd4 ,back of ,flat ,jacquard ,machine ,showing a ,set of ,cards1 ,mounted4 ,the jacquard designed fabrics are usually made in what would1 on an ordinary machine1 be the one and one rib or plain stitch4 ,the tuck or cardigan stitch is not resorted to to bring out the design as in some other systems4 ,strictly speaking1 however1 the stitch is not what could properly be called a rib stitch1 but is a combination of a plain rib and jersey stitch when made on the single jacquard1 and is almost wholly of the jersey stitch construction when made on the double jacquard where the design is brought out on both sides of the fabric4 ,the single jacquard is so called when the jacquard arrangement is on one plate only1 usually the back one4 ,the double jacquard machine is one which has the jacquard attachment on both the front and back plates4 ,with the single jacquard the design can be brought out on one side of the fabric only1 while with the double jacquard the design may be brought out on both sides of the fabric1 but the colors would be reversed4 ,type of ,fabric ,produced ,before going into the mechanical construction of the attachment we will to some extent analyze the fabric to find out what must be done to produce it4 ,referring to ,fig4 #hg1 which is a photographic reproduction of a fabric made on the machine under discussion1 it will be noted that both the design and the ground are in solid colors4 ,the rectangular figures which might be called the design are in solid black1 while the squares1 both the large ones and the small ones1 which would be the ground1 are solid white4 ,it should be understood that there are two yarn carriers used in making this fabric1 one for the white yarn and one for the black1 and that these carriers are changed every round2 that is1 one round of white1 and one round of black1 alternating throughout the fabric4 ,now inasmuch as we know that the fabric is made in the plain stitch1 it is quite obvious that in order to make this design means must be provided to permit only those needles to knit which are making the white ground on any course in which the carrier with the white yarn is being used4 ,similarly only those needles making the black design must be permitted to knit on the course in which the carrier with the black yarn is used4 ,the needles or wales1 of course1 run vertically in the fabric1 while the rectangular design is diagonal1 therefore it is plain that the number of needles or their relative positions must be changed each course4 ,in this fabric the design is brought out on one side only1 the back plate1 and the needles on the opposite side or front plate are knitting each time the carriage is moved across the machine as explained in detail later4 ,this may be plainly seen in ,fig4 #hg1 where the corner is turned over to show the back of the fabric4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #he4 ,back and ,end of ,jacquard ,machine ,showing ,details of ,necessary ,movements4 ,now to find the method of selecting the proper needles at the proper time we will refer first to ,fig4 #hf1 which is a photographic reproduction of the cam system used in this machine2 also to ,fig4 #ij1 which is a drawing of a cross section of the needle plates4 ,it will be noted in ,fig4 #ij that there are two separate needle plates4 ,the top one is for the needles proper1 while the lower one is for the auxiliary needles4 ,these two plates are in perfect alignment1 both as to the surface and the needle tricks or slots4 ,in the double jacquard the front plate would be in two parts and a duplicate of the back plate1 but in the single jacquard the front side would have what is the upper plate on the back side only1 and would use the short needles as shown at b1 ,fig4 #hi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hf4 ,construction and ,arrangement of ,cams and ,locks in ,dubied ,jacquard ,machine4 ,the ,cam ,system ,referring now to the cam system shown in ,fig4 #hf1 it will be noted that while in general appearance the upper and lower set of locks are similar1 the wing or stitch cam l and m are not only different in shape from the lower wing cams f and g1 but they are set differently in their relation to the ,v or rise cams a and c4 ,the cams as shown are set in the proper position to make jacquard or design work4 ,the upper rise cams c1 d and e are drawn up into the plate out of working position1 therefore those needles selected to operate on any course must be raised by the lower rise cams a and b4 ,the upper lock operates on the butts of the needles proper shown at b1 ,fig4 #ij1 while the lower lock operates upon the auxiliary needles shown at a in the same illustration4 ,now1 then it is plain that the needles proper will not be raised up1 therefore cannot draw new loops or knit unless they are raised by the auxiliary needles a1 ,fig4 #ij1 which in their turn are raised by the cams a and b1 ,fig4 #hf4 ,but it should be noted that the auxiliary needles are drawn down below the point of the rise cams a on each course1 as the wing cams f and g extend below these corners1 therefore1 on every course1 unless one of the wing cams f or g is drawn up into the cam plate out of working position1 all of the auxiliary needles are drawn down out of working position and will not operate on the next succeeding course unless put into working position by other means4 ,these wing cams f and g are chamfered off on the outside1 so that any auxiliary needles pushed up above the lower end and into operating position will slide under and raise them up into the cam plate4 ,the inner edge is a square corner consequently will1 upon coming in contact with the needle butts1 draw them down out of the working position4 ,the auxiliary needles being a separate unit have no effect on the needles proper on their downward movement1 but must1 of course1 raise them on the upward movement by coming in contact with the lower ends4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hg4 ,fabric ,design ,made on a ,jacquard ,machine4 ,those of the needles proper that are moved up into work are brought down again and form new loops by the stitch cams l and m1 ,fig4 #hf4 ,the small triangular cams j and k are for clearing the needles when a very short stitch is being drawn by the stitch cams l and m4 ,how ,needles ,are ,selected ,now to show how the needles are selected we will first refer to ,fig4 #hi1 which shows the needle proper at b and the auxiliary needle at a4 ,the auxiliary needle has a joint in it as shown at h to permit the lower end e to swing to the position shown by the dotted line i4 ,fig4 #ij shows the auxiliary needles in position with the card cylinder and cards in place ready to push them up into operation4 ,those needles which it is desired not to operate at all1 such as the needles at the end of the plate that may not be needed1 are drawn down and the ends are turned down to the point where they are at right angles to the plate1 as shown by the dotted line at i4 ,when they are in this position the cards cannot of course push them up into operating position4 ,the short nib that looks like a part of a needle1 indicated at f1 and the card cylinder shown at g are not a part of the mechanism under consideration1 but are another method of needle selection which will be explained later4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hh4 o-,black2 x-,white4 ,designs ,shown in ,fig4 #hg ,layed ,out on ,cross ,section ,paper for ,cutting ,cards4 ,fig4 #hd is a general view of the back of the machine showing a set of cards on the card cylinder ready for work4 ,fig4 #he shows the mechanism used to bring the cylinder with the cards into action4 ,the cards and cylinder need no distinguishing mark as they should be easily recognized from what has gone before4 ,the same thing applies to the auxiliary needles just above1 part of which are turned down to the point where they cannot be put into operation4 ,letter j indicates the end of the shaft upon which the card cylinder is mounted1 and c is the elongated opening in which it moves up and down4 ,this opening is on the same diagonal plane as the needle plates and has its duplicate at the other end which carries the other end of the card cylinder4 ,the rocker shaft d is mounted just under the card cylinder and has two levers securely attached1 the other ends of which are connected to the card cylinder shaft1 one at either end4 ,on the outer end of the rocker shaft d is another lever indicated by the letter e4 ,this is connected to the camway h through the extension k4 ,this camway is mounted in such a manner that it can be moved only in one direction1 and that direction is up and down diagonally or on the same plane as the back needle plates4 ,as the carriage reaches the extreme end of its travel the pin g1 which is attached to the carriage1 enters and follows the camway4 ,inasmuch as the cams are set on an incline this pin or plunger must raise the camway together with the end of the lever e4 ,through the rocker shaft d and the two levers before mentioned as connecting the rocker shaft with the card cylinder1 this will bring the card cylinder up to the lower edge of the auxiliary needle plate4 ,this action will of course push all those needles into action that come in contact with the particular card that may be on that side of the card cylinder at the time4 ,where the openings are cut in this card the needles will pass through and have no contact1 therefore will not be pushed up into working position4 ,as the card cylinder returns to its lowest position it is turned a quarter turn by the stationary hooked dog a1 which catches a tooth1 of which there are four1 of a ratchet wheel which is also securely attached to the card cylinder shaft4 ,in this way the card cylinder is turned a quarter turn each time it is moved up to the auxiliary plate1 which brings a new card into position to make another selection of needles for the next course4 ,letter f indicates a counterweight which1 as will be noted1 is attached to the rocker shaft d to assist in returning the card cylinder to its lowest position and hold it there after its return4 ,letter i indicates an ordinary pattern chain on which the proper studs are attached to change the yarn carriers automatically4 ,three ,units ,may ,be ,racked ,in this type of jacquard machine there are three separate and distinct units which may be racked or moved at right angles to the movement of the needles4 ,they are1 first1 the needle plate proper which racks the same as the ordinary flat machine2 second1 the auxiliary needle plate2 and third1 the card cylinder together with the cards4 ,the racking of the needle plate proper is necessary to make those designs in which a rack in the fabric is required1 but the other two are chiefly a matter of convenience to save making up cards4 ,there are many designs that may be made with one or four cards1 or even without any cards1 by manipulation of these racking movements1 where otherwise quite a string of cards would be required4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hi4 ,needles ,proper and ,auxiliary ,needles ,used in ,jacquard ,machine4 ,we will take for example any design consisting of a small block or check within the limits of the needles the auxiliary plate will rack over4 ,such a design may be made without cards in this way4 ,say we wish to make a black and white check four needles wide and four courses high4 ,we would put up into operating position four auxiliary needles and draw four down1 alternating in this way with four up and four down for the width of the fabric4 ,then1 referring to ,fig4 #hf1 we would draw up out of operating position as shown the rise cams c1 d and e1 also the wing cams f and g4 ,this would permit the alternating four auxiliary needles we have left in operating position to always stay in this position4 ,now1 after putting on one round or two courses of1 let us say1 white we would rack the auxiliary plate over four needles and then put on a round of black2 rack back the four needles and put on a round of white1 rack the other way four needles and put on a round of black4 ,if we could see the fabric made thus far we would find that we had a row of blocks or checks four needles wide and four courses high4 ,for although we have put on four courses each of the black and white1 which makes eight courses in all1 each color has been put on its own group of four needles2 therefore the whole will build up the fabric but four courses4 ,if we continued to operate the machine in the same manner we would get alternate black and white stripes1 each four needles wide4 ,to break them up into checks or squares we would at this point have to either skip racking once while continuing the change of carriers each round1 or miss changing carriers once while continuing the rack of four needles each round4 ,this change must of course be made every four rounds throughout the length of the fabric1 or as long as it is desired to make the check4 ,it should be remembered that it is the auxiliary plate that is racked in this case1 and not the needles proper2 therefore the rack does not show in the fabric4 ,but the shifting of these alternate sets of four auxiliary needles each round causes alternate groups of four of the needles proper to knit1 the set which knits depending on which way the auxiliary plate is racked4 ,this same check design may be made with one card properly cut by preventing the card cylinder from turning and racking1 or moving the card cylinder back and forth four needles in the same manner as the auxiliary plate was moved4 ,or it may be made with four cards without moving either the plate or card cylinder4 ,in this case it would be necessary to use all the auxiliary needles and lower the wing cams f and g1 ,fig4 #hf1 into action4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ij4 ,cross ,section of ,needle ,plates and ,card ,cylinder4 ,in making a fabric on a double jacquard machine which shows the design on one side only1 it is good practice to put four cards on the front cylinder properly cut to put alternate needles into operation on alternate courses1 in order to prevent putting more courses on the front plate than on the back4 ,or to explain it in another way1 the needle in the back plate that makes the white part of the design knit only on the rounds on which the white thread carrier is used1 and the needles that make the black parts operate only when the carrier with the black yarn is in use4 ,now it is plain that if all the needles in the front plate are permitted to knit each round we would have approximately twice as many courses on the front as on the back4 ,this is obviated1 as stated before1 by using cards on the front card cylinder to push up into operation every alternate needle when moving the carriage say from left to right1 and permitting these to remain idle and pushing those not operated on this course into operation on the return course from right to left4 ,while this is desirable it is not essential1 for it cannot be done on a single jacquard1 though there are many nice designs and fabrics made on this machine4 ,explanation of ,pattern ,fig4 #hg shows a fabric made on a double jacquard machine with both card cylinders in operation4 ,before going any further it should be understood that both the front and back card cylinders can be operated and make a new selection of needles at the end of each course1 or when the carriage is at the end of its travel at both ends of the machine4 ,this design is made by operating the card cylinders in this way4 ,fig4 #hh is a layout of the design shown in ,fig4 #hg4 ,it is one complete repeat of the design as shown by the square box in ,fig4 #hg4 ,all the rest of the fabric is simply a repetition of this1 but when grouped together on a large piece of fabric they appear entirely different4 ,as may be seen in ,fig4 #hh1 it would take #cf cards to make this design4 ,in cutting the cards for this we would cut out the places shown blank and leave the card whole to push the needles into operation in the places marked by an x or an o4 ,this cutting would of course have to be repeated the width of the fabric1 or the length of each card4 ,the principle as explained is used on all makes of flat jacquard knitting machines1 but the method used to put the needles into operation by the cards differs with the different builders4 ,for example1 one popular method is shown in ,fig4 #ij1 where the card cylinder is placed directly below the under surface of the auxiliary plate as shown at g1 and acts on a short nib with the butt turned downward and extending through the plate as shown at f4 ,with this method it is customary to use a long needle with two butts as shown in ,fig4 #hi at f1 instead of the short one with an auxiliary needle4 ,also with this method the needle plate would be a single wide plate with the tricks or needle slots cut gradually deeper as they reached the lower edge1 so that at the point where the lower butts of the needles come the trick is deep enough so that the needle may be depressed to bring the top of the lower butts flush1 or just below1 the top surface of the needle plate4 ,when operating the machine these butts always remain in this position1 therefore will not knit unless raised up and put into operation by the cards4 ,if we should cut a set of cards just the reverse of the set laid out in ,fig4 #hh1 that is1 cut out where these are not1 and leave uncut where these are cut1 and put this set on the front card cylinder and operate them in conjunction with and opposite to the back set1 we would have the same design on both sides of the fabric1 but the colors would be reversed4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,index ,a ,automatic ,control1 #fj1 #fg ,automatic ,drop ,locks1 #cj ,automatic ,drop ,v ,cams1 #ca ,automatic ,jacquard1 ,purl ,stitch ,machine1 #ajj ,automatic ,narrowing or ,fashioning ,machine1 #aac ,automatic ,single ,lock ,machine1 #eg ,automatic ,widening ,machine1 #gh ,b ,bridge1 #ei ,bridges1 #ia1 #abf ,c ,cams1 #ah1 #ca1 #aae ,cams1 ,difference ,between ,dubied and ,lamb ,system1 #di ,cam1 ,explanation of1 #ah ,cams1 ,guard1 #di ,cam ,plate1 #cb ,cams1 ,purl ,stitch ,machine1 #ij1 #ajc ,cam1 ,racking1 #ch ,cams1 ,stitch1 #gd ,cam ,system1 ,jacquard1 #acd ,cams1 ,v1 #ca ,cams1 ,widening ,machine1 #ha ,cams1 ,wing1 #ace ,carriage1 #ah ,carriage1 ,purl ,stitch ,machine1 #ij1 #if ,cardigan1 ,half1 #bi ,cardigan1 ,full1 #bi ,cardigan1 ,half1 ,how ,made1 #cj1 #dg ,cardigan1 ,full1 ,how ,made1 #cc1 #dh ,cards1 #ajf1 #abi1 #acf ,card ,cylinder1 #ajf1 #abi1 #acf ,cards1 to ,cut1 #aaj1 #adj ,changing the ,stitch1 #fc1 #gd1 #if1 #ajc ,changing ,yarn ,carriers1 #fd1 #gc1 #ge1 #if ,claes ,flentje ,machine1 #aac ,counter1 #ei1 #hi ,counting ,cylinder1 #fg ,counting ,cylinder ,stops1 #fi ,cotton-back1 #bi1 #df1 #ge ,cotton-back ,sweater1 #dd1 #dh ,collar1 ,shaped1 #dj ,comb1 ,narrowing1 #ea ,comb1 ,set up1 #eb ,chain ,drive1 #de1 #eg1 #ajj ,chain1 ,controlling1 #eg1 #ei ,chain1 ,racking1 #ei1 #fd ,chain1 ,pattern1 #ei ,control of ,yarn1 #gj ,course1 #aj ,crank1 #eg ,crank ,drive1 #de ,crochet ,stitch1 #ac ,crosswise of the ,fabric1 #aj ,crochet ,fabric1 #ac ,cut ,pressers1 #bi ,cylinder or ,drum1 ,counting1 #fg1 #ajj ,cylinder ,divisions1 #fh ,cylinder ,stops1 #fi ,cylinder1 to 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,stitch1 #hg ,needles1 ,automatic ,narrowing ,machine1 #abf ,needles1 ,automatic ,widening ,machine1 #hj1 #hc ,needle ,selection1 ,jacquard ,system1 #acb1 #acf ,needle ,springs1 #bj1 #hj1 #hc ,needle ,plates1 #ah1 #ca1 #hj1 #hf1 #hh1 #aje ,needle ,plates1 ,jacquard1 #acd ,p ,pattern ,wheels1 #bi ,pattern ,chain1 #ei ,pawls1 ,racking1 #fe ,piping1 #dc ,plating1 #ej ,plating ,yarn ,carrier1 #ej1 #aaa ,production1 #dd ,purl ,stitch ,machine1 #hf1 #hh ,purl ,stitch ,fabric1 #hg ,purl ,stitch ,machine1 ,jacquard1 #ajj ,r ,rack ,stitch1 #bi1 #ce ,rack ,stitch1 ,how ,made1 #cf ,rack1 ,french1 #fc1 #gd ,rack1 ,both ,sides of ,fabric1 #da ,racked ,collar1 #dj ,racking ,chain1 #ei1 #fd ,racking ,cam1 #ch1 #fe ,racking ,mechanism1 #fe ,racking ,pawls1 #fe ,racking ,cam ,ratchet1 #ff ,racking1 ,purl ,stitch ,machine1 #hi ,rib ,fabric1 #aj1 #bf1 #bg ,rib ,fabric1 ,elasticity of1 #bf ,rib ,fabric1 ,varieties of1 #bi ,rib ,stitch1 #a and #a1 #b and #b1 etc41 #if ,rib1 #b and #b1 ,purl ,stitch ,machine1 #ih1 #ajj ,rules1 #ig ,s ,seams on ,fashioned ,work1 #ed ,selective ,system1 #cc ,selvedge ,edge1 #da1 #ed1 #gb ,set ,up ,comb1 #eb ,shaped ,collar1 #dj ,shog or ,shogged1 #cf ,speed1 #ba1 #de ,springs1 ,u-shaped ,needle1 #bj1 #hj ,springs1 ,yarn ,take-up1 #gb ,sprocket ,roller1 #ei1 #fe ,sinker ,loop1 #aj ,single ,lock ,machine1 #dd1 #eg ,single ,jacquard1 #abi1 #adj ,sleeve1 ,fashioning1 #ec ,slots1 #ag1 #ah ,stops1 ,counting ,cylinder1 #fi ,stops1 ,yarn ,carrier1 #ga1 #hd ,stitch1 #aj ,stitch ,cams1 #gd1 #ia1 #ajc ,stitch1 ,drop1 #bb ,stitch ,pins1 #gd ,stitch1 ,rack1 #bi1 #ce1 #cf1 #da ,stitch1 ,changing1 #fc1 #gc1 #gd1 #ajc ,stitches on ,purl ,stitch ,machine1 #if ,striping1 #fd ,studs1 ,chain1 #fj1 #fe ,studs1 ,heights1 #fc ,studs1 ,tension1 #gb ,t ,take-up ,roller1 #ei ,textile ,fibers1 ,resiliency of1 #ae ,tension ,stud1 #gb ,tension on ,fabric1 #he ,tension for ,yarn ,take-up ,spring1 #gb ,tricks1 #ag1 #ah1 #aje ,tripping ,finger1 #fi ,tubular ,fabric1 #bd1 #bf1 #gd ,tubular ,rib ,fabric1 #bf ,tuck ,stitch1 #bi ,tuck ,stitch1 ,how ,made1 #cj ,two-faced ,fabric1 #dd1 #df ,v ,v ,cams1 #ca ,w ,wale1 #aj1 #cj ,weights1 #ah1 #eb1 #ei1 #hj ,widening ,operation1 #ee ,widening ,machine1 #gh ,width of ,fabric1 ,needles ,counted1 #ed ,width of ,fabric1 ,limitation1 #aj ,work ,hook1 #eb1 #ee ,y ,yarn ,carrier1 #ba1 #ei1 #gj ,yarn ,carrier1 ,plating1 #ej1 #aaa ,yarn ,carrier1 ,changing1 #fd1 #gc1 #ge1 #if ,yarn ,carrier ,stops1 #ga1 #hd ,yarn ,control1 #gj ,yarn ,take-up ,spring1 #gb ,yoke1 #ei1 #abf ,z ,zig-,zag ,stitch1 #bi ,zig-,zag ,stitch1 ,how ,made1 #ci ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- 8,,dubied0 ,flat ,knitting ,machines1 ,links and ,links ,machines1 ,hand and ,full ,automatic ,power ,built by ,edward ,dubied ,co4 ,neuchatel1 ,switzerland ,illustration ,acknowledged by ,users ,experts and ,judges as 8,,the ,,best0 ,dubied ,machinery ,company ,e4 ,o4 ,,spindler #aci ,franklin ,st4 ,corner ,west ,broadway ,new ,york ,city ,,sole ,,agents ,,for ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,,and ,,canada ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,for ,,quality ,,use ,williams' ,latch ,needles and eliminate serious needle troubles ,no ,gauge ,too ,coarse ,,made ,,in ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,,the ,,caw ,,brand ,,by ,,american ,,labor ,no ,gauge ,too ,fine ,the materials used are the best obtainable1 while the workmanship is all that can be desired4 ,we supply more sweater mills than any other manufacturer--,why8 7,it will pay you to investigate7 ,standard styles carried in stock ,send for samples and prices ,,chauncey ,a4 ,,williams ,manchester ,new ,hampshire ,maker of 8,,caw0 ,brand ,philadelphia ,office3 #dj ,south ,seventh ,street1 ,rooms #cjd and #cje ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,textile ,machine ,works1 ,reading1 ,pa4 ,the ,european ,war has proved conclusively that the ,united ,states no longer depends on ,europe for ,full ,fashioned ,hosiery and ,full ,fashioned ,knitting ,machines ,illustration ,these machines are the most productive and durable made1 and are successfully operated by nearly all the ,full ,fashioned ,hosiery ,manufacturers in the ,united ,states ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,illustration ,,automatic ,,flat ,,knitting ,,machine1 8,,grosser0 ,,type4 ,frh,g4 ,this is one of the many types of machines used in the art of knitting4 ,other special machines have been designed and developed in the ,grosser ,plants4 ,should any problem of knitting puzzle you1 consult ,the ,grosser ,knitting ,machine ,co4 #bfj ,west ,broadway1 ,new ,york ,,we ,,specialize ,,in ,flat ,knitting ,machines--,for ,hand and ,power ,operation ,full ,fashioned ,hosiery ,machines--,for ,ladies' ,hose1 etc4 ,warp ,knitting ,machines--,raschel1 ,chain and ,milanese ,type ,finishing ,machines--,such as ,loopers1 ,seamers1 etc4 ,needles and ,supplies--,for ,all ,machines ,handled ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,merrowing ,,established #ahch ,makers of ,the ,merrow ,high ,speed ,overseaming1 ,overedging1 and ,shell ,stitch ,machines ,illustration ,for ,seaming1 ,hemming and ,edging ,illustration ,all ,kinds ,knitted and ,woven ,fabrics ,,merrowise ,for ,efficiency ,it ,means ,maximum ,production ,minimum ,expense ,unexcelled ,quality of ,work ,the ,merrow ,machine ,co4 #g ,laurel ,street--,hartford1 ,conn4--,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,three ,departments ,,rodney ,,hunt ,specializing for ,service 99 99 99 99 99 ,textile ,wet ,finishing ,machinery ,illustration ,fulling ,mills 7,patented ,type ,m7 ,more ,fulling in less ,time--without 8,nips0 or 8,trap ,tears40 ,booklet ,no4 #abbj ,illustration ,washers ,equipment adapted to individual requirements4 ,interchangeable parts4 ,booklet ,no4 #bba ,illustration ,pusher ,mills ,felts and ,knit ,goods in garment4 ,circular #aba ,illustration ,reel ,machine ,bleaching1 ,dyeing1 ,tinting or ,washing without tangling or straining fabrics4 ,booklet ,no4 #aaai 99 99 99 99 99 ,illustration 8,rodney ,hunt0 ,wood ,rolls ,superior ,quality ,rolls 8,registered0 for ,maximum ,service ,send for ,standard ,order ,sheets 99 99 99 99 99 ,water ,power ,equipment ,illustration ,vertical and ,horizontal ,turbines ,for ,large and ,small ,streams4 ,high returns from varying flow of water4 ,water ,controlling ,apparatus 8,standardized0 designs4 ,penstocks1 ,flumes1 ,gates and ,gate ,hoists1 ,screens1 ,valves and accessories4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,rodney ,,hunt ,,machine ,,co4 #ii ,mill ,street ,orange1 ,massachusetts ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,the ,eastman ,cutter ,illustration ,will enable you to save from thirty to forty per cent in your cutting costs4 ,we can prove this to you by a free demonstration4 ,eastman ,machine ,co4 ,buffalo1 ,n4 ,y4 ,branch ,offices3 ,,new ,,york #haf ,broadway ,,chicago #cae ,w4 ,van ,buren ,street ,,boston #hg ,summer ,street ,,rochester #fjd ,elwood ,building ,,philadelphia #aaj ,n4 ,sixth ,street ,,baltimore #dag ,w4 ,baltimore ,street ,,detroit #afb ,w4 ,jefferson ,avenue ,,cleveland #abcd ,superior ,avenue1 ,n4 ,e4 ,,st4 ,,louis #adbj ,olive ,street ,,new ,,orleans #baj ,godehaux ,building ,,san ,,francisco #hf ,third ,street ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,f-,a ,quality 8,the ,standard for over a ,quarter of a ,century0 ,,braids ,,edgings ,,tubing and ,,narrow ,,loom ,,fabrics ,friedberger-,aaron ,mfg4 ,co4 ,,mills ,,and ,,general ,,offices3 #ahth and ,courtland ,streets 33 ,philadelphia ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,textile ,world the world's textile authority ,kinks ,every manufacturer meets problems in the operation of a mill which are difficult of solution4 ,the chances are #ii in #ajj that the same problem has been encountered and overcome by others1 and here is where ,,textile ,,world1 through its ,questions and ,answers ,department1 saves hours of time and dollars of waste for mill men4 ,each year over #c1jjj such practical problems are answered by ,,textile ,,world',s technical staff4 ,this service is free to subscribers4 ,answers in every case are by personal correspondence4 ,a number of the best ones are published each week but the inquirer's name is always confidential4 ,,textile ,,world is the technical and market authority of the industry--knit goods markets1 yarn and raw material quotations4 ,published every ,saturday4 #d4jj per year ,canada1 #a4jj extra postage2 ,foreign1 #c4jj extra ,also ,american ,directory of the ,knitting ,trade ,annually--#b4jj ,,bragdon1 ,,lord ,,nagle ,,co4 #ccd ,fourth ,avenue ,new ,york ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,by the time this publication is read we expect to have ready for the market a ,new ,coning ,machine4 ,the product of this machine has several novel features which we believe will prove of particular interest to you ,universal ,winding ,company ,boston ,massachusetts ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,missing or obscured punctuation was corrected4 ,unbalanced quotation marks were left as the author intended4 ,typographical errors were silently corrected4 ,inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book4 ,text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores 7italics72 text that was bold by 8equal0 signs 7bold74