,transcrib]'s ,notes ,?is e-text is bas$ on #8,cotton ,weav+ & ,design+1' f #aiji4 ,inconsi/5t spell+ & hyph5ation h be5 reta9$1 b punctuation & typographical errors h be5 correct$4 ,example calculations h be5 ma9ta9$2 "s errone\s figures 9 ! tables h be5 correct$4 ,! mid dot has be5 us$ z ! decimal po9t 7z 9 #cjjjj74 ,! #8,ma!matical ,op]ators' ,unicode ,block ne$s to be support$ by ! font in/all$ 9 ! read+ device_/s(tw>e2 special *>act]s us$ 9 ?is book are #8!re=e' 771 #8proportion' 771 #8squ>e root' 771 & o!rs4 ,special *>act]s h be5 us$ to highlight ! foll[+ font /yles3 italic3 und]scores bold3 equals signs sans-s]if3 tildes ,small caps h be5 conv]t$ to ,,upp]case lett]s2 ! c>et "* 77 indicates sup]script *>act]s4 ,,cotton ,,weav+ ,,& ,,design+ ,,! ,,elem5ts ,,( ,,cotton ,,sp9n+4 ,by ,,john ,,morris & ,f4 ,,wilk9son4 ,) a ,preface by ,sir ,b4 ,a4 ,,dobson1 ,c4,e41 ,m4,i4,m4,e4 ,) #afi ,diagrams & ,illu/rations4 ,cr[n #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 ,,cotton ,,sp9n+ ,,calculations ,,& ,,y>n ,,co/s3 ,a ,practical & ,compreh5sive ,manual ( ,calculations1 ,y>n ,co/s & o!r ,data involv$ 9 adapt+ ! ,ma*9]y 9 all ,sections1 & = all ,grades ( ,sp9n+ & ,d\bl+4 ,by ,,james ,,w9t]bottom1 ,lectur] 9 ,cotton ,sp9n+1 ,municipal ,s*ool ( ,te*nology1 ,man*e/]4 ,) ,diagrams & o!r ,illu/rations4 #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 net4 ,,jacqu>d ,,weav+ ,,& ,,design+4 ,by ,f4 ,t4 ,,bell1 ,m$alli/ 9 ,hon\rs & ,c]tificat$ ,tea*] 9 ,l95 ,manufactur+ & 9 ,weav+ & ,patt]n ,design+1 ,city & ,guilds ( ,london ,in/itute4 ,) #aii ,diagrams4 #hvo4 #abs4 net4 ,,pr9ciples ,,( ,,wor/$ ,,sp9n+4 ,by ,,h[>d ,,prie/man4 ,) #aah ,illu/rations4 #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 net4 ,,pr9ciples ,,( ,,wooll5 ,,sp9n+4 ,by ,,h[>d ,,prie/man4 ,) #aaa ,diagrams4 #hvo4 #is4 net4 ,,longmans1 ,,gre51 ,,& ,,co4 ,,london1 ,,new ,,york1 ,,bombay1 ,,& ,,calcutta ,,cotton ,,weav+ ,,& ,,design+ ,,by ,,john ,t4 ,,taylor ,,late ,,lectur] ,,on ,,cotton ,,weav+ ,,& ,,design+ ,,9 ,,! ,,pre/on1 ,,a%ton-,,"u-,,lyne1 ,,*orley1 ,,& ,,todmord5 ,,te*nical ,,s*ools ,,& ,,on ,,silk ,,weav+ ,,& ,,design+ ,,9 ,,! ,,macclesfield ,,te*nical ,,s*ool ,,au?or ,,( ,,designs ,,= ,,cotton ,,fabrics1 ,,etc41 ,,9 #8,,! ,,textile ,,manufactur]' ,,revis$ ,,"u ,,! ,,direction ,,( ,f4 ,,wilk9son ,,director ,,( ,,! ,,textile ,,& ,,eng9e]+ ,,s*ool1 ,,bolton ,,& ,h4 ,,nisbet ,,weav+ ,,ma/] ,,( ,,! ,,textile ,,s*ool1 ,,bolton ,,six? ,,edition ,,) ,,num]\s ,,diagrams ,,longmans1 ,,gre51 ,,& ,,co4 #ci ,,pat]no/] ,,r[1 ,,london ,,new ,,york1 ,,bombay1 ,,& ,,calcutta #aiji ,all rights res]v$ ,,revis]',s ,,preface ,,to ,,fif? ,,edition ,taylor's 8,cotton ,weav+0 has = _m ye>s enjoy$ a reputation among ,/ud5ts :o h att5d$ ,day & ,ev5+ ,classes 9 ,textile ,weav+ & ,design+4 ,x has1 h[ev]1 be5 f\nd want+ 9 "s important features1 & o!rs h ne$$ expansion s z to br+ ! "w up to mod]n requirem5ts4 ,a fur!r ,edition hav+ be5 call$ =1 has af=d$ ! opportunity ( hav+ ^! defici5cies rem$i$ by ! addition ( matt]s :i* w put ! book 9 l9e ) ! late/ improvem5ts 9 ?is section ( ! ,me*anical ,arts4 ,*apt] ,i41 on prep>atory processes1 has be5 entirely rewritt5 & enl>g$4 ,my obligations are _m to ,mr4 ,h4 ,nisbet1 ,weav+ & ,design+ ,ma/] "h1 :o has k9dly c>ri$ out ?is "w4 ,"s *apt]s h _h new & important features add$1 & _m draw+s are includ$ = ! fir/ "t1 ei!r z new illu/rations1 or 9 place ( o!rs :i* _h become obsolete4 ,= ^! draw+s ,i am indebt$ to ! same g5tleman1 :o has made ?is class ( "w a speciality4 ,o!r *apt]s h be5 exp&$1 & p>tly rewritt54 ,i %\ld l to say1 9 conclusion1 t :ile ! book 0 pass+ ?r\gh ! press ! assi/ance ( ,mr4 ,nisbet has be5 mo/ helpful4 ,,fr$4 ,,wilk9son1 ,director4 ,,textile ,,& ,,eng9e]+ ,,s*ool1 ,,bolton1 ,febru>y1 #aije4 ,,preface ,,to ,,six? ,,edition ,ano!r ,edition hav+ be5 call$ = has giv5 opportunity = a revision ( ! "w 9 sev]al directions4 ,! mo/ notable addition is t ( ,*apt] ,,ix41 :i* is q new & deals ) ,automatic ,weft-repl5i%+ ,devices4 ,x is hop$ ?is w be ( consid]able help 9 giv+ weav+ /ud5ts cle> ideas on a phase ( ! subject :i* is gr[+ rapidly1 & w t5d to /ill great] importance z increas$ production becomes m necess>y4 ,q a numb] ( new illu/rations h be5 sub/itut$ = old ones4 ,,fr$4 ,,wilk9son1 ,director4 ,,textile ,,& ,,eng9e]+ ,,s*ool1 ,,bolton1 ,novemb]1 #aiji4 ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,,page ,i4 ,,prep>atory ,,processes #a ,,ii4 ,,h& ,,& ,,p[] ,,looms #dh ,,iii4 ,,drop ,,& ,,circul> ,,box ,,looms #ajg ,,iv4 ,,dobbies #abc ,v4 ,,miscellane\s #acb ,,vi4 ,,jacqu>d ,,weav+ #acg ,,vii4 ,,l5o ,,weav+ #agc ,,viii4 ,,t]ry ,,looms--,,c>d ,,cutt+--,,lappets #ahg ,,ix4 ,,automatic ,,weft--,,repl5i%+ ,,devices #aih ,x4 ,,! ,,pr9ciples ,,( ,,design+ #bah ,,xi4 ,,figur$ ,,design #bgh ,,xii4 ,,textile ,,calculations #cjg ,,index #cdg ,,cotton ,,weav+ ,,& ,,design+ ,,*apt] ,i ,,prep>atory ,,processes ,y>n int5d$ = manufacture into clo? requires to pass ?r\gh v>i\s /ages ( prep>ation1 ! "* ( :i* dep5ds ^u ! class ( fabrics to be produc$4 ,?us1 "s sy/ems ( treatm5t are bett] adapt$ = ! prep>ation ( y>n = grey clo?s 7i4e4 ( ! native col\r ( cotton71 "s = mono-col\r$1 & o!rs = multi-col\r$1 fabrics4 ,! *oice ( a sy/em is (t5 arbitr>y1 & c only be made f a k ( local or special requirem5ts4 ,! op]ations involv$ 9 ! prep>ation ( w>ps = mo/ fabrics are compris$ "u n less ?an five *ief divisions1 namely-- #a4 ,w9d+ y>n f any ( its e>li] /ages on to w>p]s' bobb9s4 #b4 ,w>p+4 #c4 ,siz+4 #d4 ,beam+1 or w9d+ y>n on to a weav]'s beam4 #e4 ,loom+1 i4e4 ei!r draw+-9 or twi/+-94 ,ea* ( ^! op]ations may be p]=m$ by a v>iety ( ma*9es ( di/9ctly diff]5t types t h be5 specially devis$ to meet specific requirem5ts1 & :i* are1 !re=e1 bett] adapt$ ?an o!rs = _! special purpose4 ,be=e introduc+ ! read] to ! details ( ! v>i\s types ( ma*9es 9 ea* division1 x w be bett] to briefly enum]ate ! diff]5t sy/ems ( prep>ation usually adopt$ 9 ! manufacture ( ! ?ree classes ( goods nam$ above4 ,,prep>ation ,,( ,,grey ,,w>ps4 ,grey w>ps are prep>$ by "o or o!r ( two sy/ems1 namely1 7#a7 ,beam w>p+1 = sla%] or tape siz+2 &1 7#b7 ball or mill w>p+1 = ball or w>p siz+2 b by f> ! great] numb] are prep>$ by ! fir/-nam$ sy/em4 #a4 ,beam ,w>p+ & ,sla%] ,siz+4 ,?is sy/em comprises ! foll[+ op]ations1 namely-- #a4 ,w9d+ y>n f cops1 r+1 or ?ro/le bobb9s on to w>p]s' bobb9s1 by means ( a 8sp9dle0 or 8cop0 w9d+ ma*9e4 #b4 ,beam w>p+1 :]eby y>n is transf]r$1 9 ! =m ( a wide %eet1 f w>p]s' bobb9s on to a l>ge flang$ beam4 #c4 ,sla%] or tape siz+1 :]eby y>n is )drawn f sev]al beams1 t]m$ 8back0 or 8sla%]s'0 beams1 to be siz$1 & subsequ5tly re-w\nd by ! same ma*9e on to a weav]'s beam by simultane\s op]ations4 #d4 ,loom+1 by :i* ! ?reads ( a new w>p are plac$ 9 a loom ready = weav+4 #b4 ,ball ,w>p+ & ,siz+4 ,?is sy/em comprises ! foll[+ op]ations1 namely-- #a4 ,w9d+ y>n f cops or r+ bobb9s on to w>p]s' bobb9s4 #b4 ,ball w>p+1 9 :i* a numb] ( ?reads are )drawn f w>p]s' bobb9s & cond5s$ into ! =m ( a rope ( untwi/$ /r&s4 ,?is op]ation may be accompli%$ by sev]al types ( ma*9es4 ,! "o usually employ$ is ! old-fa%ion$ w>p+ mill1 :i* coils w>p-ends on to a l>ge revolv+ reel or swift1 f :i* !y are subsequ5tly )drawn & =m$ into a l>ge ball4 ,ball w>ps are also sometimes =m$ direct f w>p]s' bobb9s2 also sometimes f sections =m$ by a sectional w>p]2 & sometimes by means ( a l9k+ or *a9+ ma*9e4 #c4 ,ball-w>p siz+4 #d4 ,beam+1 or w9d+ a w>p 9 an ev5 %eet ( ?reads on to a weav]'s beam = ! loom4 #e4 ,twi/+-9 or else draw+-9 w>p-ends 9 ! loom4 ,if ! ?reads ( a new w>p are simil> 9 numb] & c\nts to ^? ( ! f9i%$ w>p1 & are to pass ?r\gh ! %$d+ h>ness & re$ also 9 a simil> mann]1 x is m economical to twi/ ! ?reads ( a new w>p sep>ately to ! correspond+ ?reads ( ! old w>p1 & !n draw ! twi/$ portion ( ! w>p bodily =w>d ?r\gh ! healds & re$4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! numb] ( ?reads & c\nts are greatly dissimil>1 or if a diff]5t draft+ is requir$1 !n rec\rse mu/ be _h to draw+ new w>p-ends ?r\gh ! h>ness & re$4 ,prep>ation ( ,mono-col\r$ ,w>ps4 ,w>ps ( "o col\r may be prep>$ f ei!r 7#a7 w>p-dy$ & siz$ y>n1 or 7#b7 f hank-dy$ & siz$ y>n4 #a4 7a7 ,w>p-dye+ & ,siz+4 ,! s]ies ( op]ations 9 ?is sy/em are id5tical ) ^? involv$ 9 ! prep>ation ( grey w>ps by means ( ball w>p+1 b ) ! additional process ( dye+ imm$iately foll[+ ! op]ation ( w>p+1 & are z foll[s3-- #a4 ,w9d+ y>n on to w>p]s' bobb9s4 #b4 ,mill or o!r sy/em ( ball w>p+4 #c4 ,w>p-dye+ & siz+4 #d4 ,w9d+ y>n on to a weav]'s beam4 #e4 ,twi/+-9 or draw+-94 #a4 7b7 ,w>p-dye+ & ,siz+4 ,a sy/em by :i* w>ps ( "o col\r may be prep>$ by means ( sectional w>p+1 f ball-dy$ & siz$ y>n1 has be5 rec5tly introduc$4 ,x comprises ! foll[+ op]ations1 namely-- #a4 ,w9d+ y>n f cops or r+ bobb9s on to w>p]s' bobb9s4 #b4 ,mill or o!r sy/em ( ball w>p+4 #c4 ,w>p-dye+ & siz+4 #d4 ,w9d+ y>n f ball w>ps on to w>p]s' bobb9s by means ( a w>p-w9d+ ma*9e4 #e4 ,sectional w>p+ & beam+4 #f4 ,draw+-9 or twi/+-94 #b4 ,hank-dye+ & ,siz+4 ,?is sy/em involves ! foll[+ op]ations1 namely-- #a4 ,reel+ y>n f cops or r+ bobb9s into s+le or multiple hanks4 7,a /&>d hank conta9s #hdj y>ds47 #b4 ,hank-dye+ & siz+4 #c4 ,w9d+ y>n f hanks on to w>p]s' bobb9s by means ( a drum-w9d+ ma*9e4 #d4 ,beam w>p+4 #e4 ,beam+1 or w9d+ y>n f back beams on to a weav]'s beam4 #f4 ,draw+-9 or twi/+-94 ,sectional w>p+ may be sub/itut$ 9 lieu ( beam w>p+4 ,prep>ation ( ,multi-col\r$ ,w>ps4 ,/rip$ w>ps are usually prep>$ by "o or o!r ( two sy/ems1 namely1 7#a7 ,york%ire dress+1 f w>p-dy$ & siz$ y>n2 & 7#b7 sectional w>p+1 f hank-dy$ & siz$ y>n4 ,w>p-dye+ yields a m uni=m tone ( col\r ?an hank-dye+1 = :i* reason "s manufactur]s pref] to adopt ! =m] sy/em1 al?\gh ! latt] sy/em is less co/ly4 #a4 ,york%ire ,dress+4 ,?is sy/em comprises ! foll[+ op]ations1 namely-- #a4 ,w9d+ y>n on to w>p]s' bobb9s4 #b4 ,mill or o!r sy/em ( ball w>p+4 #c4 ,w>p-dye+ & siz+4 #d4 ,york%ire dress+1 by :i* ! requir$ numb] ( ?reads ( ea* col\r are split (f res]ve ball w>ps4 ,! w>p-ends ?us split (f are subsequ5tly pass$1 9 gr\ps ( two to f\r1 ?r\gh ! d5ts ( a re$ 9 prop] ord]1 accord+ to ! requir$ w>p patt]n1 & w\nd on to a weav]'s beam4 #e4 ,draw+-9 or twi/+-94 #b4 ,sectional ,w>p+4 ,?is sy/em comprises ! foll[+ op]ations1 namely-- #a4 ,reel+ y>n into hanks4 #b4 ,hank-dye+ & siz+4 #c4 ,w9d+ on to w>p]s' bobb9s by a drum-w9d+ ma*9e4 #d4 ,sectional w>p+1 by :i* a w>p is w\nd 9 sections ^u wood5 or compress$ pap] blocks1 ) w>p-ends 9 ! same relative position t !y are requir$ to occupy 9 clo?4 ,ea* section =ms a complete unit ( ! full w>p1 & :5 ! requir$ numb] ( units are prep>$1 !y are plac$ toge!r side by side1 & compress$ ^u a m&ril2 !n ! y>n is unw\nd f all sections simultane\sly1 & w\nd on to a weav]'s beam4 #e4 ,twi/+-9 or draw+-94 ,prep>ation ( ,weft ,y>n4 ,if weft y>n is to be wov5 9 a grey /ate1 x is r>ely t x requires to und]go any op]ation aft] x leaves ! sp9n]4 ,grey cops & r+ bobb9s ( weft are usually plac$ 9 a %uttle & wov5 direct2 b if !y are too l>ge = a %uttle1 _! y>n is transf]r$ on to wood5 or pap] bobb9s by means ( pirn w9d+4 ,cops int5d$ = use z weft are frequ5tly dy$ & blea*$ 9 t =m1 & wov5 )\t any op]ation ( w9d+4 ,if1 h[ev]1 weft y>n is dy$ or blea*$ 9 hanks1 x requires to be subsequ5tly w\nd on to pirn bobb9s or pap] tubes to fit on a %uttle tongue4 ,weft is also sometimes wov5 9 a damp condition1 ) a view to ins]t+ a great] numb] ( picks p] in* 9 clo? ?an is possible ) dry weft4 ,w9d+ ,ma*9es = ,w>p ,y>n4 ,fig4 #a is a diagram %[+ p>ts ( a 8sp9dle0 or 8cop0 w9d+ ma*9e1 :i* is *iefly employ$ to w9d grey y>n f cops1 ,g1 or r+ bobb9s on to w>p]s' bobb9s1 ,e4 ,x is also sometimes incid5tally employ$ to w9d col\r$ y>n f hanks1 ,o 7z repres5t$ on ! left-h& side ( ! diagram71 :5 ! am\nt ( "w requir$ ( t k9d w\ld n ju/ify ! pur*ase ( a 8drum0 w9d+ ma*9e1 :i* latt] is bett] adapt$ = t purpose1 = reasons t w be expla9$ lat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,z usually made1 a 8cop0 w9d+ ma*9e conta9s a t9 driv+ drum1 ,b1 pass+ c5trally d[n ! ma*9e1 & c>ry+ ! driv+ pulleys at "o end ( ! t9 drum %aft ,a4 ,by means ( cotton b&s1 ,c1 ! t9 drum drives f\r r[s ( sp9dles1 ,d1 arrang$ 9 two zigzag r[s1 "o on ea* side ( ! ma*9e1 z %[n 9 "p plan 7deta*$74 ,w>p]s' bobb9s1 ,e1 fit loosely ^u ! sp9dles1 & re/ ^u metal discs1 ,f1 secur$ to ! sp9dle-%anks1 by :i* bobb9s are frictionally rotat$4 ,dur+ w9d+1 y>n passes f cops1 ,g1 or o!r s\rce1 ov] a drag-bo>d1 ,h1 ?r\gh a bru%1 ,i1 & cle>] guide1 ,j1 !nce ov] a glass rod1 ,k1 surm\nt$ on guide-rails1 & on to w>p]s' bobb9s1 ,e4 ,! drag-bo>d ,h is cov]$ ) flannel to imp>t frictional resi/ance to y>n1 & !reby prev5t its pass+ too freely & mak+ s(t bobb9s4 ,! cle>] guide 7( :i* a front view is %[n1 deta*$7 is a ?9 metal plate conta9+ a numb] ( v]tical slits1 ,l1 f ne> ! top ( :i* are two %ort slits1 ,m1 bran*+ upw>ds at an angle ( ab\t #de4 ,! v]tical slits s]ve to guide ?reads to _! respective bobb9s1 & also to remove any irregul>ities1 z 8slubb+s0 7i4e4 ?ick1 s(t places consi/+ ( a mass ( untwi/$ fibres74 ,! %ort slits are int5d$ to prev5t op]atives f rais+ ?reads out ( ! guides1 & s save !mselves ! tr\ble & loss ( "t involv$ 9 piec+ up brok5 ?reads4 ,sp9dle-%anks1 ,d1 are furni%$ ) tightly-fitt+ groov$ pulleys1 ,n1 t]m$ 8:>ves10 ar\nd :i* driv+ b&s pass4 ,:>ves on ea* back r[ ( sp9dles are usually made "o-qu>t] ( an in* l>g] 9 diamet] ?an ^? ( front sp9dles1 to cause !m to revolve at a sl[] velocity4 ,! object ( ?is is to enable "s comp5sation to be made = ! con/antly accel]at+ pace at :i* y>n is w\nd1 9 consequ5ce ( ! gradually increas+ gir? ( bobb9s by additional lay]s ( y>n4 ,:5 bobb9s become ab\t half full on front sp9dles1 a w9d] removes !m to back sp9dles to be fill$4 ,if bobb9s 7 all[$ to fill on front sp9dles1 ! velocity at :i* y>n w\ld travel t[>ds ! completion ( w9d+ w\ld imp>t an abnormal degree ( t5sion to x1 & !reby make x m liable to break4 ,x is 9 consequ5ce ( ! excessive degree ( friction to :i* y>n is subject$ 9 a cop-w9d+ ma*9e t r5d]s x unsuitable = w9d+ y>n t has be5 previ\sly dy$ & siz$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b4 ,"o ( ! mo/ important p>ts ( a cop-w9d+ ma*9e is ! trav]se motion to guide y>n betwe5 ! flanges ( a bobb9 dur+ w9d+4 ,^! are con/ruct$ 9 great v>iety1 b all belong to "o ( two di/9ct types1 namely1 ^? gov]n$ by cams1 & ^? gov]n$ by :at is t]m$ a 8mangle-:eel40 ,!y are also con/ruct$ to guide y>n at ei!r a uni=m or v>iable pace betwe5 ! bobb9 flanges4 ,if ! trav]se ( y>n is uni=m1 bobb9s w be w\nd ) a uni=m diamet]2 b if a b>rel-%ap$ bobb9 is requir$1 ! movem5t ( guide-rails mu/ be diff]5tial--quick] t[>ds ! extremities1 & sl[] t[>ds ! c5tre ( _! trav]se1 ) ! object ( plac+ a great] quantity ( y>n ^u !m4 ,trav]se motions are usually design$ on ! comp5sat+ pr9ciple1 s t guide-rails on ei!r side move 9 opposite directions at ! same "t1 & a fall+ rail helps a ris+ "o to asc5d1 !reby requir+ less motive p[] to drive a ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,"o ( sev]al modifications ( a he>t-cam trav]se motion is %[n 9 ,fig4 #b4 ,9 ?is motion two he>t-cams1 ,q1 are set 9 opposite direction ^u a %aft1 ,p1 :i* is driv5 by a p9ion1 ,r1 on ! t9 drum %aft1 ,a1 & a tra9 ( :eels1 ,s1 ,t1 ,u1 ,v4 ,! cams op]ate treadles1 ,w1 :]eby !y fall & rise alt]nately4 ,! free end ( ea* treadle f>!/ f its fulcrum is connect$ by means ( /raps or *a9s1 ,x1 to pulleys2 ,y1 secur$ to %afts2 ,z1 ext5d+ "o on ea* side ( ! ma*9e1 & c>ry+ sev]al p9ion :eels1 #a1 at int]vals4 ,! latt] engage ) tee? 9 v]tical racks1 #b1 :i* s]ve z supports to guide-rails1 #c4 ,?us1 z treadles are depress$1 guide-rails are rais$ 9 a positive mann]2 b _! return is effect$ by gravitation4 ,! "* ( movem5t imp>t$ to guide-rails dep5ds ^u ! con=mation ( ! cams1 :i* may be con/ruct$ to give ei!r a uni=m or diff]5tial trav]se to guide-rails1 z desir$4 ,ano!r modification ( a he>t-cam motion is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #c4 ,9 ?is motion a s+le cam1 ,h1 s]ves to op]ate bo? guide-rails1 ,b1 by act+ ^u two treadle b[ls1 "o ( :i*1 ,k1 is plac$ above1 & ! o!r1 ,l1 bel[ ! cam4 ,treadle b[l ,k is c>ri$ at "o end ( a lev] fulcrum$ at ,o1 :il/ ! o!r end1 ,m1 is connect$ to a lev]1 ,q4 ,?r\gh ! m$ium ( *a9s & *a9 pulleys1 lev] ,q op]ates ! guide-rail on ! left1 :il/ ! l[] treadle1 ,t1 op]ates t on ! "r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,a trav]se motion con/ruct$ on ! mangle-:eel pr9ciple1 to w9d b>rel-%ap$ bobb9s1 is repres5t$ 9 ,fig4 #d1 ,a p9ion1 ,b1 on ! t9 drum %aft1 ,a1 drives :eel1 ,c1 :i* c>ries a small p9ion1 ,d4 ,:eel ,c & p9ion ,d are c>ri$ by a bracket t p]mits ( a slight conc5tric movem5t ( ^? :eels to enable ! p9ion to engage alt]nately on ! outside & !n on ! inside ( ! mangle-:eel ,e1 ) :i* x ge>s4 ,on ! same /ud z ! mangle-:eel is a p9ion1 ,f1 :i* engages ) ! tee? ( a horizontal rack1 ,g1 :i* is =m$ ) a curv$ rack at ea* end4 ,! curv$ racks ge> ) ecc5tric :eels1 ,h1 fa/5$ to %afts1 ,i1 :i* c>ry *a9 pulleys1 ,j1 to w9d up or let (f ! *a9s connect$ to ! supports ( guide-rails4 ,:5 p9ion ,d revolves on ! outside ( ! mangle-:eel1 ! latt] revolves until ! gap ,k arrives at ! p9ion1 :i* imm$iately runs inside ! mangle-:eel & rev]ses its direction1 until ! gap ,l arrives at ! p9ion1 :i* !n runs on ! outside & aga9 rev]ses ! direction ( ! mangle-:eel4 ,?us1 rack ,g is sl[ly mov$ f "o side to ! o!r1 & by act+ ^u ! ecc5tric :eels ,h at diff]5t di/ances f _! axes1 _! rotation is quick] or sl[]1 accord+ z ! racks are 9 ge> ) !m at a po9t ne>] to1 or f>!r f1 ! c5tre ( _! %afts respectively4 ,on ! same %afts z ! ecc5tric :eels are a numb] ( *a9 pulleys on :i* are fa/5$ *a9s1 ,m1 connect$ to ! supports1 #b1 ( guide-rails1 :]eby ! latt] are rais$ & l[]$ 9 a mann] det]m9$ by ! ecc5tric :eels4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,ano!r modification ( a mangle-:eel motion is %[n 9 ,fig4 #e4 ,9 ?is motion a :eel1 ,e1 on ! drum %aft1 drives ! l>g] :eel ,f4 ,! small p9ion ,c turns ! mangle-:eel ,h4 ,9 ord] to obta9 ! unequal motion ( ! rack ,r1 to give ! b>rel %ape to ! bobb91 a :eel1 ,a1 is fix$ on ! mangle-:eel %aft a %ort di/ance f ! c5tre ( ! :eel4 ,ano!r :eel1 ,b1 is fix$ 9 a simil> mann] on ano!r %aft1 :i* also c>ries a :eel :i* ge>s into ! "u side ( ! rack4 ,! small] side ( ! :eel ,a ge>s into ! l>g] side ( ! :eel ,b1 z %[n 9 ! diagram1 & z ! mangle-:eel %aft revolves1 ! l>g] "p ( ,a w gradually come 9 contact ) ! small] "p ( ,b1 & ?is1 ( c\rse1 w cause ! rack to move quick]4 ,:5 ! small] side ( ,a is 9 contact ) ! l>g] side ( ,b1 ! guide-plate w be guid+ ! y>n on to ! middle ( ! bobb92 & :5 ! l>g] side ( ,a is 9 contact ) ! small] side ( ,b1 ! guide-plate w be putt+ ! y>n on to ei!r ! top or bottom ( ! bobb94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,! small side ( ! :eel ,a mu/ be set 9 ge> ) ! l>g] side ( ! :eel ,b1 & ! trav]se halfway ( ! bobb94 ,! p9ion ,c w at ! same "t be 9 contact ) ! middle p9 9 ! mangle-:eel1 & ! middle ( ! rack ,r driv+ ! :eel ,m4 ,fig4 #f is a "p elevation1 & ,fig4 #g a plan1 %[+ ! ess5tial p>ts ( a drum-w9d+ ma*9e to w9d y>n f hanks1 ,w1 t h be5 previ\sly dy$ & siz$1 on to w>p]s' bobb9s1 ,c4 ,9 ?is type ( ma*9e1 w>p]s' bobb9s are held horizontally aga9/ ! p]iph]ies ( a s]ies ( revolv+ drums1 ,b1 fix$ at regul> int]vals ^u a %aft1 ,a1 runn+ c5trally f end to end ( ! ma*9e4 ,bobb9s are held 9 position by sp9dles1 ,d1 conta9$ 9 frames1 ,e1 :i* are fulcrum$ at ,f to brackets1 ,g1 to p]mit ( bobb9s ris+ z !y increase 9 size4 ,s9ce bobb9s are driv5 by surface contact ) drums1 ! rate ( w9d+ is approximately uni=m ?r\gh\t4 ,project+ f ea* bobb9 frame is a lat*1 ,h1 to p]mit ( a hook1 ,i1 hold+ a bobb9 out ( contact ) its drum1 :il/ an op]ative replaces a full bobb9 ) an empty "o1 or pieces a brok5 ?read4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,y>n is guid$ betwe5 ! flanges ( bobb9s at a uni=m pace by means ( guides1 ,j1 c>ri$ ^u guide-rails1 ,k1 support$ 9 brackets1 ,l1 & op]at$ by a he>t-cam1 ,m4 ,on ! end ( ! driv+ %aft1 ,a1 is a worm1 ,n1 :i* ge>s ) a worm :eel1 ,o1 ) :i* is comp\nd$ a p9ion1 ,p1 to drive :eel1 ,q1 to :i* ! cam ,m is secur$4 ,z ! cam revolves1 x acts alt]nately ^u two runn]s1 ,r & ,s1 c>ri$ ^u /uds secur$ to ! slid+ base1 ,t1 ( brackets1 ,l1 :]eby ! latt] receive a reciprocal motion1 z indicat$ by arr[s1 ,u & ,v4 ,w9d+ ,ma*9es = ,weft4 ,:5 weft y>n is 9 an unsuitable =m to be plac$ )9 a %uttle x is usually w\nd ^u pap] tubes1 or wood5 bobb9s1 by means ( "o ( ! _m sy/ems ( 8pirn0 w9d+4 ,! *ief p>ts ( ! prevail+ type ( ma*9e us$ = t purpose are repres5t$ 9 ,figs4 #h1 #i1 & #aj1 :i* are end & front elevations & plan respectively4 ,pass+ c5trally d[n ! ma*9e is a t9 drum1 ,b1 on driv+ %aft1 ,a1 = ! purpose ( driv+ a numb] ( :>ves1 ,c1 arrang$ at regul> int]vals on ea* side ( ! ma*9e4 ,fix$ imm$iately above ea* :>ve is a metal pirn cup1 ,d1 hav+ a conical int]ior1 = ! reception ( a pirn bobb91 ,e4 ,:5 9 position1 a long sp9dle1 ,f1 hav+ a heavy head-piece1 ,g1 passes ?r\gh a bobb9 tube & ent]s a rectangul> hole 9 ! :>ve imm$iately bel[4 ,! l[] portion ( a sp9dle :i* ent]s ! :>ve is also rectangul> 9 cross-section1 & !re=e revolves ) its :>ve4 ,at ! same "t1 bobb9s are driv5 by caus+ a projection1 ,h1 bel[ sp9dle heads to ent] a slot 9 ea* bobb9 head4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,ea* ?read passes f its s\rce1 ov] sev]al /ation>y b>s1 to imp>t ! requir$ degree ( t5sion to x1 !nce ov] guide-rail1 ,i1 by :i* x is guid$ up & d[n 7z indicat$ by arr[s1 ,j7 betwe5 ! extremities ( a pirn cup1 z x passes ?r\gh an op5+1 ,k1 9 ! latt]1 & on to its bobb94 ,9 consequ5ce ( y>n be+ built ^u a bobb9 )9 a conical *amb]1 a bobb91 ) its sp9dle1 rises automatically z x fills ) y>n1 & :5 fill$ x raises its sp9dle cle> ( its :>ve1 & ?us /ops automatically4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,guide-rails1 ,i1 are usually op]at$ by means ( a groov$ cam1 ,l1 fix$ on a side %aft1 ,m1 :i* c>ries a worm :eel1 ,n1 driv5 f a worm1 ,o1 on ! end ( a driv+ %aft1 ,a4 ,! cam acts ^u a runn]1 ,p1 fix$ on a slid+ rail1 ,q1 9 :i* are =m$ v]tical slots1 ,r1 "o on ea* side ( ! ma*9e4 ,ea* v]tical slot acts ^u a runn]1 ,s1 secur$ to lev] ,t1 hav+ %aft ,u = a fulcrum4 ,at regul> int]vals on %aft ,u brackets are fix$ to support guide-rail ,i1 :i* rises & falls at a uni=m pace 9 bo? directions4 ,9 consequ5ce ( y>n rubb+ aga9/ ! /ation>y surface ( a pirn cup1 x is liable to become burni%$1 & sometimes injur$4 ,_m attempts h be5 made to ov]come t objection by driv+ bobb9s by surface contact ) revolv+ discs1 & also by support+ !m aga9/ conical roll]s4 ,fig4 #aa %[s "o ( sev]al me?ods ( driv+ bobb9s by means ( bevell$ discs1 ,b1 fix$ at regul> int]vals ^u driv+ %afts1 ,a1 plac$ "o on ea* side ( ! ma*9e4 ,9 ?is ma*9e1 z 9 an ord9>y pirn cup ma*9e1 a bobb91 ,c1 rises automatically until fill$1 :5 its sp9dle1 ,d1 )draws f a hole 9 ! bol/]1 ,e1 & slides d[n a %ort incl9e1 !reby /opp+ a bobb9 by c>ry+ x f ! disc4 ,,w>p+4 ,! ?ree me?ods ( w>p+ 9 use are mill w>p+1 beam w>p+1 & sectional w>p+4 ,! olde/ =m is mill w>p+1 b ?is has be5 l>gely sup]s$$ 9 almo/ all cases1 except = col\r$ goods1 by ! beam w>p+ ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,9 beam w>p+ bobb9s are plac$ 9 a creel4 ,?is is a frame con/ruct$ to hold f #djj to #ejj bobb9s1 & is ! %ape ( ! lett] ,v1 z ?is is ! mo/ conv5i5t & easie/ = unw9d+4 ,! #djj to #ejj ?reads1 ,a1 are tak5 ?r\gh an exp&+ re$1 ,b 7,figs4 #ab1 #ac1 & #ad74 ,! ends are !n pass$ ov] a t9 measur+ roll]1 ,d1 & "u t5sion-roll]s1 #ae & #ah1 :i* keep ! y>n taut1 & also pull x back :5 x is requir$ to turn backw>d to f9d a brok5 ?read1 or o!rwise4 ,ea* ?read is !n pass$ sep>ately und]nea? a small b5t wire drop-p91 #bb4 ,ea* ?read be>s ! weight ( "o ( ^! wires1 & %\ld ! ?read break :5 ! ma*9e is 9 motion1 ! wire falls betwe5 two roll]s1 #c & #d1 :i* latt] is m\nt$ s t a wire causes x to move =w>d &1 by releas+ a 8trigg]0 motion at ,q1 z x is call$1 ! ma*9e is automatically /opp$4 ,?is is ! pr9ciple ( ,s+leton's /op-motion1 :i* is ! "o mo/ commonly us$4 ,9 front ( ! /op-motion wires ! y>n is pass$ ?r\gh an exp&+ comb1 #bc1 :i* regulates ! wid? ( ! sla%]s' or 8back0 beam1 #bf4 ,?is beam is driv5 by friction2 ! beam re/s on a drum1 ,v1 & z ! drum revolves1 ! beam is driv5 9 su* a mann] t y>n is w\nd at a uni=m pace ?r\gh\t1 al?\gh ! beam is gradually increas+ 9 diamet]4 ,"o ( ^! ma*9es w supply ab\t #hj to #ij looms weav+ m$ium c\nts ( y>n4 ,! creel is usually made to hold #ejd bobb9s1 b any less] numb] ( ends may be put on a beam4 ,aft] leav+ ! w>p+ ma*9e ! beams are tak5 to ! sla%+ frame1 :]e a suffici5t numb] ( beams are put toge!r to =m ! w>p = ! loom4 ,mill w>p+4--,?is sy/em ( w>p+ is /ill 9 use = w>ps us$ 9 ! ,brad=d mix$ goods trade1 & = _m classes ( col\r$ cotton goods 9 ,lanca%ire1 al?\gh sla%$ w>ps are fa/ sup]s$+ ! sy/em = ! =m] trade1 & sectional w>p+ is replac+ ! sy/em = ! col\r$ trade4 ,mill w>p+ is also 9 g5]al use 9 silk manufacture4 ,^? sp9n]s :o supply w>ps to ,york%ire wor/$ manufactur]s h usually suppli$ !m 9 ! ball1 unsiz$4 ,! w>ps are 8mill0 w>p$1 & ! manufactur] has !m siz$ to 8 own ord]s by cotton w>p siz]s1 :o usually comb9e ?is bus9ess ) dye+ & f9i%+ 9 ! ,brad=d di/rict4 ,sla%$ w>ps are n[ be+ us$ 9 ! ,brad=d trade to a consid]able ext5t1 ! w>ps be+ 9 mo/ cases sla%$ 9 ,lanca%ire & s5t on beams4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,a w>p+ mill consi/s ( a l>ge reel1 ,z 7,figs4 #ae & #af71 ( f six to tw5ty y>ds circumf]5ce1 :i* is made to revolve4 ,?is reel is fix$ upright 9 suitable framework1 & ! w>p]'s bobb9s1 ,w1 are plac$ 9 a creel1 ,v1 by ! side ( ! reel4 ,! ends are tak5 f ! bobb9s1 & drawn sep>ately ?r\gh ! eyes ( a r[ ( ne$les1 ,t1 :i* con/itute :at is t]m$ a 8heck40 ,?is heck is s con/ruct$ t "o-half ( ! eyes c be rais$ above ! o!r half1 to =m a lease4 ,! heck slides up & d[n ! framework ,y ( ! mill1 & ?us =ms a trav]se & di/ributes ! w>p z ! reel revolves4 ,at ! comm5cem5t ( a w>p1 ! bun* ( ends is tak5 f ! 8heck0 & fa/5$ to a peg1 #f1 at ! bottom ( ! reel4 ,z ! reel revolves ! heck sl[ly rises1 & s causes ! w>p to be w\nd on ! reel spirally1 )\t ov]lapp+4 ,! heck is mov$ up & d[n a suffici5t numb] ( times to give ! requir$ numb] ( ends 9 ! w>p1 :5 ! w>p is cut (f & unw\nd1 & made up ei!r 9 ! =m ( a ball or a *a94 ,! l5g? ( a w>p is det]m9$ by ! numb] ( revolutions made by ! mill f ! comm5cem5t1 until x is rev]s$ at ! o!r extremity4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,,sectional ,,w>p+4 ,sectional w>p+ is a sy/em *iefly employ$ 9 ! production ( col\r$ /rip$ w>ps1 f y>n previ\sly dy$ & siz$ 9 ! hank1 & subsequ5tly w\nd ^u w>p]s' bobb9s by a drum-w9d+ ma*9e4 ,x is also sometimes employ$ 9 ! production ( grey w>ps = ball siz+4 ,z its "n implies1 ! op]ation consi/s ( prep>+ a w>p 9 sections1 t]m$ 8*eeses10 ea* ( :i* is a complete unit1 & virtually a transv]se section1 ( ! full w>p4 ,:5 ! requir$ numb] ( sections = a w>p h be5 made1 !y are compress$ betwe5 flanges side by side ^u a m&ril ( a runn+-(f ma*9e1 & _! y>n run f !m simultane\sly on to a weav]'s beam4 ,sometimes a sectional w>p] works 9 conjunction ) an automatic /op-motion simil> to t ( a beam w>p+ ma*9e1 9 :i* case bobb9s are conta9$ 9 a ,v-%ap$ creel4 ,!y also sometimes "w )\t a /op-motion4 ,9 t case bobb9s are conta9$ 9 a curv$ creel simil> to t employ$ 9 conjunction ) a w>p+ mill1 :]eby ! ?reads are bett] "u ! obs]vation ( ! op]ative w>p]1 & brok5 ?reads may be m readily detect$4 ,"o ( ! mo/ important consid]ations 9 sectional w>p+ is ! production ( sections ( uni=m diamet] & l5g? ( y>n2 o!rwise1 w>p-ends w\ld be ( v>y+ degrees ( t5sion2 also1 wa/e ( mat]ial w\ld result f irregul> l5g?s ( y>n on ! sections4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,! pr9cipal p>ts ( a well-kn[n type ( sectional w>p+ ma*9e are %[n 9 ,figs4 #ag1 #ah1 & #ai4 ,w>p-ends1 ,a1 are )drawn f a curv$ creel1 & pass$ sep>ately ?r\gh ne$le eyes ( a leas+ heck1 ,b1 !nce ?r\gh a ,v-re$1 ,d1 ov] a t9 measur+ roll]1 ,f1 & on to a section block1 ,o1 :i* is compress$ betwe5 two flanges1 ,n1 ,o1 ^u a %aft1 ,q1 by :i* x is turn$4 ,flange ,n is removable to p]mit ( a full section be+ replac$ by an empty "o4 ,ano!r flange1 #bd1 is key$ ^u ! section %aft1 ,q1 & driv5 by means ( friction b[ls1 #bj1 #bj'1 plac$ "o on ea* side1 & turn$ by driv+ %afts #af1 #af1 ea* ( :i* conta9s a wide loose pulley1 #ag1 #ag1 a n>r[ fa/ pulley1 #ah1 #ah1 & a too!d :eel1 #ae1 #ae1 :i* are 9 ge>4 ,?us1 if driv+ /rap #ai is plac$ 9 a c5tral position 7z indicat$7 x runs on bo? loose pulleys1 )\t effect2 b if plac$ ^u ! fa/ pulley #ah1 x w turn ! section =w>d1 & w9d y>n on ! front1 z %[n1 & if plac$ on fa/ pulley #ah1 x w turn a section backw>d1 & w9d y>n at ! back4 ,?is arrangem5t enables sections to be made ) "o-half ( a full repeat ( a w>p patt]n1 ei!r alone or 9 addition to sev]al repeats 7provid$ ! patt]n is a symmetrical "o71 s t :5 all sections are plac$ 9 _! prop] position = runn+ _! y>n on to a weav]'s beam1 two halves ( a patt]n w jo9 toge!r )\t a break4 ,a uni=m rate ( w9d+ y>n is ma9ta9$ by caus+ friction driv+ b[ls1 #bj1 #bj1 to automatically rec$e f ! section %aft at a pace exactly correspond+ to t at :i* a section increases 9 diamet]1 !reby gradually ret>d+ ! velocity ( ! section %aft4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,a press] roll]1 #ab1 c>ri$ at ! end ( a lev]1 #i1 #aa1 fulcrum$ on %aft #aj1 be>s aga9/ y>n dur+ w9d+1 to w9d x m compactly1 & also to ensure uni=mity ( diamet] ( sections compos+ ! same w>p4 ,dur+ ! w9d+ ( ! fir/ or 8trial0 section1 ! press]1 :i* is suitably weight$1 is free to rec$e at su* pace z corresponds ) ! increas+ diamet] ( t section2 b = subsequ5t sections1 ! press] is "u me*anical control1 & may only rec$e at a prescrib$ pace1 :i* %\ld1 h[ev]1 exactly co9cide ) its recession dur+ ! =mation ( ! fir/ section4 ,! movem5t ( ! press] is gov]n$ by means ( a too!d quadrant or sector1 #a1 communicat+ ) press] lev]1 #i1 by a connect+ rod1 #f4 ,! position ( rod #f1 9 relation to ! fulcrum #b ( ! sector & ! fulcrum #aj ( ! press] lev]1 det]m9es ! velocity at :i* ! press] rec$es4 ,a cam1 ,p1 on ! end ( section %aft ,q1 imp>ts an int]mitt5t rot>y motion to a %ort v]tical %aft1 ,y1 by means ( lev] ,s1 ,u1 & pawl ,w4 ,surm\nt+ %aft ,y is a worm1 ,z1 ge>+ ) ! tee? ( sector #a :i* sl[ly rises z a section revolves1 !reby caus+ ! press] to rec$e1 at a prescrib$ pace4 ,! numb] ( revolutions ( ! section %aft is indicat$ ^u a dial2 also1 ! l5g? ( y>n w\nd is indicat$ ^u a dial1 by f+]s op]at$ by a tra9 ( :eels driv5 f worm ,g1 on ! end ( t9 measur+ roll] %aft ,f4 ,! two indicators1 !re=e1 s]ve z a *eck ^u ea* o!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,section blocks are made 9 diff]5t wid?s f #c in*es upw>ds4 ,"s are con/ruct$ s z to p]mit ( expansion & contraction1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #bj4 ,press]s are also con/ruct$ on a simil> pr9ciple1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ba4 ,,siz+4 ,! *ief sy/ems ( siz+ are sla%+1 dress+1 ball-siz+1 & hank-siz+4 ,! object ( siz+ is to /r5g!n ! y>n by saturat+ x ) a />*y sub/ance1 :i* lays ! fibres1 ?us mak+ x weave ) less breakages4 ,o!r objects are to imp>t 8feel0 to ! clo?1 & to give x additional weight4 ,= light siz+1 9 :i* ! object is simply to /r5g!n ! y>n1 & n to increase its weight1 only #aj to #ae p] c5t4 is add$ to ! weight4 ,:5 #cj or #dj p] c5t4 is add$ x is t]m$ m$ium siz+1 & = heavy siz+ (t5 #ajj p] c5t4 or m is add$ to ! weight4 ,! mat]ials us$ = light siz+ are3 :eat fl\r1 sago1 f>9a or potato />*1 rice fl\r or />*1 maize4 ,potato />*1 or f>9a1 is obta9$ f ! tub]s by r$uc+ !m to a pulp & mix+ well ) wat]4 ,! wat] c>ries away ! />*1 & :5 all[$ to /& ! />* falls to ! bottom ( ! vessel & ! wat] c be drawn away4 ,f>9a is mu* us$ 9 all k9ds ( siz+1 on acc\nt ( its *eapness & ! ?ickness ( ! pa/e x produces :5 boil$ ) wat]4 ,sago is mu* us$ 9 light siz+1 = :i* x is specially adapt$4 ,x is obta9$ f ! pi? ( ! sago palm1 & made into fl\r by treat+ ) wat] & dry+ on hot plates4 ,maize is a />* obta9$ f ! ,indian corn1 & is sometimes us$ = lightly siz+ ! f9] c\nts ( cotton y>ns4 ,= light siz+ x is n necess>y to use any?+ b :eat fl\r1 f>9a1 or sago1 & a small quantity ( s(t5+ mat]ial1 usually tall[ or wax4 ,:eat fl\r is f]m5t$ be=e us+ by mix+ x well ) wat] 7ab\t equal weights ( ea*7 & leav+ x = sev]al weeks1 occasionally /irr+ to keep ! p>ticles 9 susp5sion4 ,:5 fl\r is f]m5t$ new bodies are =m$1 :i* h a p[]ful influ5ce 9 prev5t+ mildew4 ,! f]m5t+ ci/]n1 #a 7,fig4 #bb71 is usually a l>ge vessel #h feet by #d feet by #d feet1 9 :i* are two revolv+ 8da%]s10 ,c1 to /ir ! fl\r & wat] :5 f]m5t+4 ,ano!r simil> ci/]n1 #b1 is us$ = /or+ call$ a 8/orage & dilut+0 ci/]n1 into :i* ! mixture is pump$ aft] a few days1 & left to fur!r f]m5t4 ,a =ce-pump1 ,n1 is us$ = pump+ f ?is to ! mix+ ci/]n1 #c1 :]e ! s(t5+ & weight+ mat]ials are add$1 aft] be+ boil$ toge!r 9 pan #d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,s(t5+ mat]ials are us$ to r5d] ! y>n m pliable4 ,! articles mo/ly us$ = ?is purpose are tall[1 wax1 & soap1 cocoanut & palm oil4 ,! foll[+ mixtures are suitable = light siz+4 ,!y c be made to give a great] or less p]c5tage1 accord+ to ! specific gravity ( ! mixture4 ,= te/+ ! specific gravity or d5sity ( ! liquid1 ! ,twaddell's hydromet] is us$4 ,?is in/rum5t regi/]s 9 degrees ! d5sity ( ! mixture1 or ! am\nt ( matt] 9 solution4 ,= light siz+-- ,:eat fl\r #bhj lbs4 ,tall[ #af ,ano!r mixture is-- ,sago #ajj lbs4 ,f>9a #ajj ,tall[ #aj ,soap #d ,= siz+ ) sago1 cocoanut oil is (t5 us$ z a s(t5+ mat]ial4 ,a mixture ( ^! two gives z good a size z any?+ = pure siz+4 ,ano!r mixture us$ = f9e c\nts is-- ,f>9a #ajj lbs4 ,wax #e ,tall[ #d #a gall4 wat] to #a lb4 f>9a4 ,almo/ e manufactur] uses diff]5t proportions ( +r$i5ts4 ,_m use :eat fl\r1 f>9a1 & sago mix$ 9 v>i\s proportions1 :il/ a fl\r & f>9a mixture 9 ! proportions ( #b3 #a is consid]$ by "s to give ! be/ results4 ,f>9a & sago are also (t5 mix$ = light siz+ 9 ! proportion ( two p>ts f>9a to "o "p sago4 ,:eat fl\r c>ries ?r\gh bett] ?an f>9a or sago1 & is !re=e m g5]ally us$ = ! heavi] k9ds ( siz+4 ,any ( ^! mixtures may be alt]$ z reg>ds /r5g?1 or o!rwise1 by increas+ or dim9i%+ _! d5sity4 ,if a mixture twaddles #aj degrees at a giv5 temp]ature1 x may be /r5g!n$ = heavi] clo?s or high] picks by increas+ ! proportion ( solid matt] 9 ! mixture until x twaddles #ae degrees at ! same temp]ature4 ,= add+ weight to ! clo? *9a clay is ! *ief +r$i5t us$4 ,?is mat]ial is f\nd 9 deposits 9 ,devon%ire & ,cornwall1 & is us$ 9 l>ge quantities = ! purpose ( weight+ & fill+ clo?1 m especially ^? manufactur$ = export to ! ,ea/]n m>kets4 ,= :at is t]m$ 8m$ium0 siz+1 viz4 add+ ab\t #cj to #ej p] c5t4 to ! weight ( ! clo?1 ! foll[+ mat]ials are us$ 9 v>i\s proportions1 ! proportion giv5 be+ an example-- ,fl\r #ajj lbs4 ,clay #cj to #dj lbs4 ,tall[ #ae lbs4 ,*loride ( magnesium #a gallon4 ,*loride ( z9c ,x w be notic$ "h t *loride ( magnesium & *loride ( z9c are introduc$ along ) ! *9a clay4 ,*loride ( magnesium is a v p[]ful s(t5] z well z a weight+ mat]ial1 & "o ( its uses is to prev5t ! gritty feel :i* ! addition ( clay alone w\ld give to ! clo?4 ,x has a great aff9ity = wat]1 & has ?us ! p[] ( attract+ moi/ure to ! clo? 9 :i* x is us$4 ,x is ?is :i* really con/itutes its s(t5+ effect4 ,*loride ( z9c is us$ to prev5t mildew1 :i* is a species ( vegetable gr[? :i* (t5 occurs 9 siz$ clo? :i* has be5 left damp1 or :i* attracts moi/ure4 ,z *loride ( magnesium attracts moi/ure1 x is necess>y to use an antiseptic :i* w c\nt]act ! t5d5cy ( ! clo? to mildew4 ,*loride ( z9c possesses valuable prop]ties z an antiseptic1 & !re=e x is (t5 us$ :]e *loride ( magnesium is us$ 9 ! size z a s(t5+ & weight+ mat]ial4 ,if *9a clay is us$ = m$ium siz+ )\t us+ *loride ( magnesium1 x is necess>y to greatly increase ! proportion ( tall[ or o!r s(t5]s 9 ! mixture4 ,?us1 = e #ajj lbs4 ( fl\r1 #dj lbs4 clay1 & p]haps #be lbs4 tall[ w\ld be us$4 ,*loride ( calcium has a simil> effect to *loride ( magnesium1 b is sc>cely z p[]ful4 ,x is us$ by _m 9 light-siz+ mixtures to prev5t ! y>n becom+ too brittle4 ,= heavy siz+ ! proportions ( clay & m9]al +r$i5ts are increas$4 ,9 "s classes ( l[ %irt+s1 ov] #ajj p] c5t4 is add$ to ! weight ( ! y>n4 ,! adhesive mat]ial mo/ly us$ is :eat fl\r1 z x c>ries ! add$ mat]ials bett] ?an f>9a or sago2 b f>9a is sometimes us$ = siz+ up to #ajj p] c5t4 ,sometimes two p>ts clay to "o ( fl\r is us$ = v heavy siz+4 ,= #ajj p] c5t4 siz+ ab\t ! foll[+ proportions may be us$3-- ,fl\r #ajj lbs4 ,clay #acj ,tall[ #ad ,*loride ( magnesium #e gallons ,*loride ( z9c #b ,col\r+ matt]s are us$ 9 size to give ! y>n any desir$ t+e4 ,blue is ! mo/ common1 z x neutralizes ! yell[ness ( ! clo? giv5 9 heavy siz+4 ,only a v small quantity is requir$4 ,sometimes yell[ is us$ to give a br[ni% appe>ance to ,am]ican y>n1 mak+ x appe> m l ,egyptian4 ,num]\s o!r mat]ials are us$ = v>i\s purposes 9 siz+4 8,gloy0 has be5 f\nd useful = /r5g!n+ w>ps = v heavily pick$ clo?s4 ,fig4 #bc w %[ ! pr9ciple ( ! sla%+ ma*9e 9 its mo/ usual =m4 ,! w>p]s' beams are plac$ 9 ! creel #a1 at ! back ( ! ma*9e4 ,9 ! diagram !re are six beams1 #a to #f1 s t if ea* "o conta9s #ejj ends !re w\ld be #cjjj ends 9 ! w>p4 ,! w>p passes ov] roll] ,a1 & into ! size-box4 ,! small roll] ,b 9 ! size-box is ( copp]1 & is call$ ! imm]sion roll]4 ,! w>p is pass$ "u ?is1 & its dep? 9 ! size mixture is regulat$ by x4 ,! w>p !n passes betwe5 two pairs ( roll]s1 ,c1 ,d1 & ,e1 ,f 7( :i* ,d & ,f are cov]$ ) flannel71 to squeeze ! surplus size f ! y>n4 ,! size is kept boil+ 9 ! size-box by ! injection ( /eam4 ,:5 ! w>p comes f ! roll]s ,e1 ,f1 x passes ov] a l>ge dry+ cyl9d]1 ,m1 &1 aft] pass+ almo/ completely r\nd x1 ov] a small] cyl9d]1 ,n1 & !n r\nd ! fan ,p & ov] guide-roll] ,q4 ,! w>p !n passes ?r\gh ! divid+ rods ,r 7:i* divide ! w>p into ! same portions t come f ea* w>p]s' beam71 !nce ov] guide-roll] ,s & t9 measur+ roll] ,t1 betwe5 draw+ roll]s ,u1 ,v1 & f9ally on to a weav]'s beam1 ,z4 ,?is end ( ! ma*9e is call$ ! 8head/ock10 & comprises ! measur+ me*anism1 divid+ rods1 & w9d+-on arrangem5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,! position ( ! imm]sion roll] 9 ! size has "s effect ^u ! am\nt ( size reta9$ on ! w>p1 z by s9k+ ! roll] l[] 9 ! box ! y>n w rema9 long] 9 ! size1 & w !re=e absorb m4 ,?is roll] is also m\nt$ s t x c be lift$ out ( ! size altoge!r :5 ! ma*9e is /opp$4 ,! l>g] cyl9d] is usually #f feet to #g feet diamet]1 & ! small] "o ab\t #d feet diamet]1 & bo? are heat$ ) /eam4 ,"s ma*9es h a revolv+ bru% betwe5 ! size-box & ! cyl9d]4 ,?is bru% is usually driv5 f ! fan %aft1 & its object is to lay ! project+ fibres1 & s /r5g!n ! y>n4 ,bru%es are only us$ 9 "s f9e-weav+ di/ricts1 & n always !re4 ,! bru% gives ! ?reads a r\nd1 smoo? feel1 & prev5ts !m /ick+ toge!r4 ,"u ! bru% :i* bru%es ! y>n a small] bru% is plac$1 runn+ at a sl[] spe$ ?an ! "o above x2 ! l[] bru% is plac$ a %ort di/ance into ! upp] "o1 & s]ves ! purpose ( clean+ x z x revolves4 ,! m>k+ me*anism 9 ! sla%+ frame usually consi/s ( a t9 roll] :eel1 ,b 7,fig4 #bd71 driv+ ! :eel ,d1 call$ ! 8/ud :eel02 a screw or worm1 ,e1 on ?is /ud drives ! bell :eel ,f4 ,! m>k+ hamm] ,l is situat$ imm$iately above a vessel conta9+ col\r+ matt]1 & is lift$ by a cam1 ,p1 driv5 f ! t9 roll]1 & dropp$ sudd5ly on ! w>p1 m>k+ x to ! requir$ l5g?s4 ,! l5g? betwe5 ea* m>k is regulat$ by ! :eels us$4 ,! t9 roll] :eel be+ ! driv]1 if ?is is divid$ into ! product ( ! /ud :eel & bell :eel1 x w give ! numb] ( revolutions ( ! t9 roll] = ea* m>k1 & ?is multipli$ by ! circumf]5ce ( ! roll] w give ! l5g? ( ! m>k4 ,! =mula w /& ?us-- /ud :eel bell :eel circumf]5ce ( roll] ---------------------------------------- --------- l5g? ( m>k4 t9 roll] :eel ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,if ! /ud :eel conta9s #ij tee?1 ! bell :eel #de tee?1 ! t9 roll] :eel #fj1 & ! roll] is #add in*es circumf]5ce1 ! l5g? ( ! m>k w be #ij #de #add -------------- #igb in*es #fj ,!re are o!r m>k+ motions 9 use = m>k+ %ort l5g?s = dhooties & sc>ves ( v>i\s k9ds1 "s be+ con/ruct$ s z to m>k sc>ves ( two diff]5t l5g?s 9 succession--say "o sc>f is m>k$ #b y>ds long1 & ! next "o #d1 ! two be+ repeat$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #be4 ,a 8sl[ motion0 arrangem5t is us$ = keep+ ! ma*9e mov+ v sl[ly :il/ ! weav]'s beam is *ang$4 ,if ! ma*9e is /opp$ completely1 ! w>p becomes m>k$ :]e x re/s on ! dry+ cyl9d]s4 ,fig4 #be %[s ! pr9ciple ( ?is arrangem5t4 ,!re are ?ree pulleys1 ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 on ! driv+ %aft ,d4 ,betwe5 ! fa/ & loose pulleys ,a1 ,c1 ! sl[ motion pulley ,b is plac$4 ,:5 ! belt is mov$ f ! fa/ pulley to ! sl[ motion1 ! :eel ,f is set 9 motion & drives ano!r :eel1 ,g1 & ?is1 ?r\gh ! bevel :eels ,h1 ,j1 ,k1 ,m1 causes ! cat* ,o to drive ! rat*et :eel ,p on ! driv5 cone %aft ,t4 ,z ! motion ( ! driv+ cat* ,o is sl[] ?an ! cone ,t :5 driv5 by ! fa/ pulley1 ! cat* ,o w beg9 to "w :5 ! /rap is mov$ f ! fa/ pulley to ! sl[ motion pulley1 & ! spe$ ( ! ma*9e is r$uc$ to ! po9t :]e ! cat* ,o ov]takes ! driv5 cone ,t4 ,hot-air dry+ has be5 employ$ 9 place ( cyl9d] dry+1 b is n mu* us$4 ,9 ?is sy/em ( dry+ ! w>p passes f ! size-box to hot-air *amb]s4 ,! air is heat$ ) /eam pipes & driv5 ?r\gh ! *amb]s by fans4 ,comb9ations ( cyl9d] & hot-air dry+ h also be5 us$1 b ) little success4 ,9 a sla%] siz+ ma*9e1 y>n is )drawn f back beams & f9ally w\nd ^u a weav]'s beam at a uni=m pace1 not)/&+ ! gradually increas+ diamet] ( ! latt] z x fills ) y>n4 ,x foll[s1 !re=e1 t ! velocity ( a beam mu/ gradually dim9i% f ! comm5cem5t ( w9d+4 ,9 ord] to meet su* requirem5t a beam is driv5 negatively by means ( a frictional driv+ motion1 "o ( :i* is %[n 9 sectional elevation 9 ,fig4 #bf4 ,?is motion consi/s ( a too? :eel1 ,a1 ^: sides are ext5d$ beyond its prop] tee? to =m inn] flanges1 :i* latt] are turn$ at "r angles to =m an out] rim4 ,two out] flanges1 ,b1 int]lock ) ! rims ( :eel ,a1 z %[n at ,c1 s t :eel ,a & flanges ,b always revolve at ! same velocity4 ,enclos$ )9 ea* *amb] betwe5 ! inn] flanges ( ,a & out] flanges ,b is a %eet /eel disc1 ,d1 encas$ )9 two flannel wa%]s1 ,e1 & secur$ to a hub :i* rotates on a holl[ beam %aft1 ,o1 9 :i* is cut a *annel or key-b$1 ,r4 ,! hubs ( /eel discs ,d be+ furni%$ ) a key t ent]s ! *annel ,r1 are free to slide ^u %aft ,o1 :i* !y rotate at ! same velocity4 ,! hub ( :eel ,a revolves freely ^u ! hubs ( discs ,d2 also1 ! hubs ( flanges ,b revolve freely ^u %aft ,o2 !re=e1 by compress+ ! flanges & discs toge!r1 any degree ( friction1 )9 c]ta9 limits1 may be induc$4 ,pressure is appli$ to ! flanges by means ( a v]tical lev]1 ,f1 fulcrum$ at ,g1 & elb[ lev] ,j fulcrum$ at ,k4 ,a /ud1 ,i1 9 lev] ,j be>s aga9/ lev] ,f ) a =ce t may be regulat$ by means ( an adju/able weight1 ,l1 ,n4 ,on ! inn] end ( %aft ,o1 :i* receives "o ( ! beam gudgeons1 is a disc1 ,p1 furni%$ ) a /ud or peg1 ,q1 to :i* is atta*$ a rope or /rap t encircles & grips "o end ( ! weav]'s beam1 :i* is !reby turn$4 ,z a beam becomes fill$ & its velocity dim9i%es1 ! slippage betwe5 discs ,d & ! driv+ flanges increases1 because ! velocity ( ! driv+ flanges rema9s undim9i%$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,automatic ,supply ( ,size to a ,siz+ ,ma*9e4 ,!re are num]\s devices = ! purpose ( ensur+ a cont9u\s & automatic supply ( size to ! size-box ( a sla%] siz+ ma*9e4 ,"o ( ^! is repres5t$ 9 ,figs4 #bg & #bh4 ,f ! la/ mix+ beck #c 7,fig4 #bb7 size is pump$ into a /orage beck1 #e1 :5ce x is )drawn & =c$ by a ram1 ,n1 along fe$ pipe ,q1 :i* is coil$ )9 a /eam-heat$ *amb]1 ,u4 ,f ! /eam *amb] x returns along pipe ,t1 ?r\gh regulat+ valve ,z1 & into ! size-box1 9 a boil+ /ate4 ,)9 a sep>ate *amb] ( ! size-box is a float+ copp] roll]1 ,x1 connect$ at "o end by means ( rod ,y to a tap :i* regulates ! fl[ ( size ?r\gh valve ,z1 on ! pr9ciple ( a ball tap4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,scot* dress+ is ano!r sy/em ( apply+ size to ! y>n4 ,?is is a mu* sl[] me?od ?an sla%+1 & is *iefly suitable = v f9e y>ns4 ,9 ?is ma*9e ! weav]'s beam is plac$ above an exp&+ re$1 ,r 7,fig4 #bi71 & to prev5t ! ends be+ cr[d$ ! w>p]'s beams are divid$1 "o-half ! ends be+ plac$ at ea* end ( ! ma*9e4 ,! w>p is pass$ ?r\gh a pair ( roll]s1 ,a ,e1 ! top "o be+ v heavy4 ,! l[] roll] ( ! pair is imm]s$ "s di/ance 9 ! size1 & takes ! size up to ! y>n4 ,aft] em]g+ f ! roll]s or 8squeez]s10 ! y>n passes ?r\gh a revolv+ bru%1 ,b1 & ov] a fan 9 a hot-air *amb]1 ,f1 !n ?r\gh ano!r bru%1 ,c1 r\nd a guide-roll] ?r\gh ! exp&+ re$ to ! weav]'s beam4 ,! opposite half ( ! ma*9e is a duplicate ( ?is4 ,by ?is process ! y>n is greatly /r5g!n$4 ,! bru%+ lays d[n all ! project+ fibres1 & makes ! ?read r\nd1 prev5t+ any cak+ ( ! size on ! ?reads4 ,! production1 ( a ma*9e ( ?is k9d1 is mu* less ?an t ( a sla%+ frame1 z only ab\t five beams a day c be dress$1 :il/ ab\t fifte5 beams c\ld be sla%$ 9 ! same "t4 ,in/ead ( ! circul> bru% ,b1 sometimes flat bru%es are us$4 ,^! are made to "w on bo? sides1 z %[n at ,fig4 #cj4 ,! dott$ l9es %[ ! movem5t ( ! bru%es4 ,! w>p is bru%$ 9 ! opposite direction to t 9 :i* x is mov+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,ball-w>p ,siz+4 ,fig4 #ca is a sectional elevation ( a siz+ ma*9e = ball-w>ps4 ,"o or m w>ps1 ,a1 are plac$ ^u cones1 & _! y>n guid$ ov] roll]s1 ,b1 ,c1 into a l>ge size-box1 #d1 conta9+ a s]ies ( roll]s1 betwe5 :i* y>n passes until x em]ges at guide-roll] ,g1 :5 all excess ( size is remov$ by roll]s ,h1 ,i4 ,f ! squeez+ roll]s1 y>n is conduct$ to a dry+ ma*9e 7,fig4 #cb71 consi/+ ( a s]ies ( /eam-heat$ cyl9d]s arrang$ 9 two v]tical zigzag r[s1 ,o1 ,n1 ! out] r[s ( :i* are driv5 f v]tical %afts conta9+ a s]ies ( bevel :eels1 ,z1 ge>+ ) bevel :eels ,y at "o end ( ! cyl9d] %afts4 ,by ?is means y>n is subject$ to little t5sion1 & its ela/icity is bett] pres]v$4 ,aft] dry+1 ! w>ps are deposit$ 9 box crates1 ,r1 to be subsequ5tly re-ball$1 ready = beam+ or w9d+ on to a weav]'s beam4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cd4 ,beam+4 ,beam+ ma*9es exi/ 9 great v>iety1 b !y may be class$ "u ! heads ( 7#a7 press beam+1 & 7#b7 t5sion beam+ ma*9es4 ,an example ( ! fir/-nam$ type1 z made by ,butt]wor? & ,dick9son1 ,ltd41 is illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cc4 ,if beam+ is accompli%$ f back beams prep>$ by a beam w>p+ ma*9e1 a creel or /& capable ( hold+ sev]al beams is situat$ 9 ! re> ( ! head/ock ( ! beam+ ma*9e2 b if beam+ is f ball-w>ps1 y>n f ! latt] is pass$ 9 a circuit\s mann] "u & ov] t5sion & guide roll]s ,a1 ,b1 = ! purpose ( taut5+ & sep>at+ w>p-ends1 :i* are f9ally pass$ ?r\gh ! d5ts ( an exp5d+ comb1 ,c1 & on to a weav]'s beam4 ,by caus+ weight$ lev]s1 ,d1 to be> ^u ! beam-ends dur+ w9d+1 a h>d & compact beam is made4 ,a t5sion beam+ ma*9e ( ! type kn[n z a ,york%ire dress+ ma*9e1 z made by ,hatt]sley ,sons1 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #cd4 ,y>n f a w>p1 ,a1 or f sev]al sections ( w>ps1 is conduct$ "u & ov] ! b>s ( a t5sion ladd]1 ,b1 !nce ar\nd divid+ b>s1 ,c1 betwe5 t5sion roll]s1 ,d1 & f9ally ?r\gh a wrai? or co>se re$ on to a weav]'s beam1 ,e2 b if ,york%ire dress+ prop] is adopt$1 w>p-ends are pass$ ?r\gh ! d5ts ( a re$ 9 gr\ps ( two to f\r1 & dispos$ accord+ to patt]n 7if any7 be=e pass+ on to a weav]'s beam ready = weav+ 9 ! loom4 ,by means ( /epp$ spe$ pulleys1 ,f1 ,g1 ! velocity ( a beam may be ret>d$ at int]vals1 to comp5sate = ! gradually increas+ diamet] ( a beam1 & !reby ma9ta9 a uni=m rate ( w9d+4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,h& ,,& ,,p[] ,,looms ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ce4 ,! ?ree pr9cipal movem5ts 9 weav+ are %$d+1 pick+1 & beat+ up ! weft4 ,by %$d+ is meant op5+ ! w>p ?reads to all[ ! %uttle conta9+ ! weft to pass ov] c]ta9 ends & "u o!rs4 ,9 ! common h& loom ! %$ is made by ! weav] op]at+ treadles ) 8 feet4 ,fig4 #ce %[s ! me?od ( connect+ ! %afts or /aves ) ! treadles = weav+ a pla9 clo?4 ,!re are two treadles1 ,a & ,b1 plac$ und]nea? ! loom1 & c5tr$ at ,c4 ,! /ave ,e is connect$ to ! treadle ,a ?r\gh ! lev] ,g4 ,! /ave ,f is connect$ to ! same treadle ?r\gh ! 8tumbl]0 ,t & ! lev] ,m4 ,:5 ! treadle ,a is press$ d[n x w take ! /ave ,e d[n1 & ! /ave ,f up4 ,= ! second pick1 ! /ave ,f is connect$ to ! treadle ,b ?r\gh ! lev] ,h1 & ! /ave ,e is connect$ to ! same treadle ?r\gh ! 8tumbl]0 ,r & ! lev] ,n4 ,!re=e1 :5 ! treadle ,b is press$ d[n1 x w take ! /ave ,f d[n & /ave ,e up4 ,by alt]nately press+ fir/ "o treadle & !n ! o!r1 we get ea* /ave up = "o pick & d[n = ! next1 alt]nately1 z requir$ = weav+ pla9 clo?4 ,! lev]s ,m & ,n are usually call$ 8long lams10 ! lev]s ,g1 ,h 8%ort lams10 & ! top lev]s ,r1 ,t 8tumbl]s40 ,! cords ,,pp connect ! long lams & tumbl]s toge!r at ! side ( ! loom4 ,9 m\nt+ ?is loom = weav+ a ?ree-%aft twill1 ?ree treadles are requir$1 "o treadle = ea* pick 9 ! patt]n4 ,suppos+ "o /ave to be d[n & two up = ea* pick4 ,! /ave requir$ to be tak5 d[n = ! fir/ pick mu/ be connect$ to ! fir/ treadle ?r\gh a %ort lam1 & ! two /aves requir$ to be tak5 up mu/ be connect$ to ! same treadle ?r\gh _! long lams & tumbl]s4 ,ea* pick 9 ! patt]n mu/ be gone ?r\gh 9 ?is mann]4 ,a sep>ate treadle is requir$ = e pick 9 ! patt]n1 unless ! same pick is repeat$1 9 :i* case "o treadle w d = m ?an "o pick4 ,x is n advisable to break ! regul>ity 9 ! ord] ( tread+ 9 ord] to save a treadle2 b 9 diap] patt]ns & simil> weaves ! effect ( a po9t draft is obta9$ by rev]s+ ! ord] ( tread+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cg4 ,figs4 #cf & #cg %[ ! design & cord+ plan respectively = a twill clo? requir+ eight treadles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ch4 ,! h& loom is practically obsolete 9 ! cotton trade1 b x is /ill ext5sively us$ 9 silk manufacture1 :]e p[] looms1 z at pres5t con/ruct$1 are n f\nd advantage\s = weav+ ! f9] classes ( goods4 ,! *ief %$d+ motions 9 p[] looms are tappets1 dobbies1 & jacqu>ds4 ,!re are v>i\s k9ds ( tappets1 ! simple/ & be/ = pla9 or twill weav+ be+ ^? %[n at ,figs4 #ch & #ci4 ,! =m] is ! m g5]al arrangem5t4 ,9 ?is ! tappets are plac$ "u ! loom1 inside ! framework4 ,9 ! arrangem5t %[n at ,fig4 #ci ! tappets are plac$ outside ! loom1 & ?us a l>g] am\nt ( floor space is tak5 up by ! latt] ?an ! =m]4 ,outside tappets are mo/ly us$ 9 ! ,york%ire weav+ di/ricts1 & are commonly made = weav+ ) ab\t eight %afts4 ,! top lev]s1 ) 8half moons10 are c5tr$ at ! cross rods ,,ee 7,fig4 #ci71 & ! heald is lift$ f bo? sides ( ! loom4 ,! top lev]s are v useful = equaliz+ ! %$1 z ! connection ) ! upright rod c be alt]$ )\t difficulty4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ci4 ,9 a p[] loom !re are two horizontal %afts1 ! top %aft ,a 7,fig4 #ch7 & ! bottom %aft ,b4 ,! =m] is us$ = work+ ! slay1 by means ( ! crank ,c1 & ! connect+ rod or 8crank arm0 ,d 7,fig4 #ch74 ,! bottom %aft is us$ = 8pick+10 & = ?is purpose x is necess>y t ! %aft %\ld revolve at "o-half ! spe$ ( ! top or crank %aft4 ,! too!d :eel on ! bottom %aft mu/ !re=e conta9 twice ! numb] ( tee? 9 ! :eel on ! crank %aft :i* drives x4 ,z a pla9 clo? conta9s two picks to ! r\nd1 & ! bottom %aft makes "o revolution = two picks1 ! tappets are fix$ to ! bottom %aft4 ,ea* tappet acts ^u treadle b[l ,e1 & !re=e ! size ( ! b[l w require to be tak5 into consid]ation 9 %ap+ ! tappets4 ,= weav+ pla9 clo? f\r /aves are usually tak51 9 ord] to prev5t ov]cr[d+ ! healds on ea* /ave1 ! ends be+ drawn ?r\gh ! /aves 9 ! ord] #a1 #c1 #b1 #d4 ,z ! /aves are fa/5$ toge!r 9 pairs1 ?is is ! same z two /aves4 ,! k9d ( movem5t to be giv5 to ! /aves is v important1 especially 9 quick-runn+ looms4 ,! /aves %\ld be mov+ quicke/ :5 !y are level1 & _! spe$ %\ld gradually decrease z ! %$ op5s4 ,x is obvi\s t a movem5t ( ?is k9d w put z little /ra9 z possible on ! w>p1 & !re=e cause ! fewe/ breakages4 ,! dep? ( ! %$ %\ld only be suffici5t to all[ ! %uttle to pass1 !re=e ! 8lift0 or /roke ( ! heald is dep5d5t ^u ! dep? ( ! %uttle us$4 ,! %$ :5 op5$ %\ld rema9 op5 only long en\gh to all[ ! %uttle to pass ?r\gh4 ,example4--,:at lift %\ld a tappet h to make a pla9 clo?1 ! o!r arrangem5ts 9 ! loom be+ z foll[s3 ,sweep ( slay #e in*es1 di/ance ( healds f clo? #h in*es1 heald connect$ to treadle #bd in*es f fulcrum1 di/ance f fulcrum to c5tre ( treadle b[l #af in*es1 size ( %uttle #a in* broad1 #a in* deep8 ,assum+ t ! tappets are "u ! loom1 z 9 ,fig4 #ch1 ! treadle b[l ,e is #af in*es f ,m1 & ! heald connect$ #bd in*es f ,m4 ,if slay moves back f clo? #e1 & ! %uttle is #a broad & #a deep1 x foll[s t ! %$ mu/ be #a deep1 or a little ov]1 at a po9t #d f ! clo? 7#e-a #d74 ,!n if ! heald is #h f clo?1 ! /roke ( heald may be obta9$--#d3 #h #a3 #b /roke ( heald1 & z #bd treadle3 #af #b3 #a lift ( tappet requir$4 ,to obta9 ! prop] %ape ( ! tappets = a pla9 clo?1 ! lift or /roke ( ! tappets to give ! requir$ lift to ! healds mu/ be obta9$4 ,if ! lift ( ! heald is requir$ to be #d in*es1 & ! c5tre ( ! treadle b[l ,e 7,fig4 #ch7 is situat$ #ab in*es f ! fulcrum ( ! treadle ,m1 ! heald be+ connect$ to ! treadle at1 say1 #ah in*es f ! fulcrum1 ! lift or /roke ( ! tappet w be obta9$ z foll[s3-- ,z #ah 3 #ab #d #d ---- #ah7 #dh 7 #b lift ( tappet #cf -- #ab ,9 "s makes ( looms ! /aves are connect$ to ! treadles at a po9t betwe5 ! fulcrum & ! treadle b[l1 ! fulcrum be+ at ! front ( ! loom4 ,?is necessitates a l>g] lift ( tappet ?an lift ( heald4 ,! tappets 9 ?is case are v l>ge1 & are pref]r$ by "s manufactur]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dj4 ,to con/ruct a tappet = a pla9 clo? f ! foll[+ dim5sions4--,lift ( tappet1 #d in*es4 ,di/ance f c5tre ( %aft to ne>e/ po9t ( contact ) treadle b[l1 #b in*es2 dwell "o-?ird ( a pick4 ,diamet] ( treadle b[l1 #b in*es4 ,at a radius ( #b in*es describe ! circle ,a 7,fig4 #dj74 ,?is circle repres5ts ! di/ance f ! c5tre ( ! %aft to ! ne>e/ po9t ( contact ) ! treadle b[l4 ,at a radius ( #c in*es describe ! circle ,b4 ,"o in* add$ = radius ( treadle b[l4 ,at a radius ( #g in*es describe ! circle ,c4 ,f\r in*es add$ = lift4 ,! circle ,b repres5ts ! c5tre ( ! treadle b[l :5 ! inn] circle ( ! tappet is act+ ^u ! b[l4 ,! circle ,c repres5ts ! c5tre ( ! b[l :5 press$ d[n by ! tappet4 ,! patt]n be+ a pla9 "o1 ! circle mu/ be divid$ into two equal p>ts1 & ea* half-circle w !n repres5t "o pick4 ,by ! l9e ,,de divide ! circle into two equal p>ts4 ,!n1 z ! healds mu/ h a pause or dwell equal to "o-?ird pick :5 at ! top & bottom ( _! /roke1 divide ea* half-circle into ?ree equal p>ts by ! l9es ,,fk1 ,,gh4 ,divide ,,fh & ,,gk ea* into six equal p>ts1 & divide ! space betwe5 ! circles ,b & ,c into ! same numb] ( unequal p>ts1 ! l>ge/ be+ 9 ! middle1 gradually decreas+ t[>ds ! circles ,b & ,c4 ,f ! corn]s ( ^! unequal spaces1 & ) ! radius ( ! treadle b[l 9 ! compasses1 describe circles repres5t+ ! position ( ! treadle b[l at diff]5t p>ts ( its movem5t4 ,draw ! curv$ l9e t\*+ ! extremities ( ! treadle b[l4 ,?is gives ! outl9e ( ! tappet4 ,z previ\sly /at$1 ! movem5t ( ! heald mu/ be quicke/ :5 ! %$ is ne>ly clos$1 & mu/ gradually decrease 9 spe$ z ! %$ op5s4 ,! unequal spaces into :i* ! lift ( ! tappet 0 divid$ give ?is ecc5tric movem5t to ! heald4 ,! curve ( ! tappet w approa* ne>] to a radial l9e z ! %$ closes1 & ! heald approa*es ! c5tre ( its /roke4 ,ref]r+ to ,fig4 #dj1 x w be se5 t ! treadle b[l is at re/ f ,f to ,g & f ,h to ,k1 or "o-?ird ( a pick at bo? ! top & bottom ( ! /roke4 ,!re=e ! "t all[$ = *ange1 or = mov+ ! heald f top to bottom1 or vice v]s1 is equal to two-?irds ( a pick4 ,if a dwell equal to half a pick is requir$1 x c be obta9$ by divid+ ! pick into f\r equal p>ts & tak+ ! middle two p>ts = dwell4 ,if two-?irds dwell is requir$1 divide ! pick into six p>ts & take f\r p>ts = dwell4 ,x is usual to give ! tappet :i* op]ates ! back heald a slightly l>g] lift ?an ! tappet :i* op]ates ! front heald4 ,! diff]5ce requir$ c be easily calculat$4 ,9 looms ) ! fulcrum ( ! treadles at ! front1 & ! healds connect$ to ! treadles betwe5 ! fulcrum & ! treadle b[ls1 "s ( ! requir$ extra lift is obta9$ by connect+ ! back heald to ! treadle at a po9t fur!r f ! fulcrum ?an ! front heald is connect$4 ,9 looms ) ! fulcrum ( ! treadles at ! back ( ! loom1 & ! tappets act+ betwe5 ! heald & ! fulcrum1 !re w be a great] diff]5ce betwe5 ! size ( tappets 9 proportion to ! lift ?an 9 ! =m] case4 ,tappets = twills1 & o!r simple weaves1 hav+ m ?an two picks to ! r\nd1 are usually plac$ ^u a c\nt]-%aft1 b outside tappets are usually work$ loose ^u ! bottom %aft4 ,! foll[+ example w illu/rate ! pr9ciple ( con/ruct+ twill tappets3-- ,draw a tappet = a #c up & #a d[n twill4 ,di/ance f c5tre ( %aft to ne>e/ po9t ( contact ) treadle b[l #c in*es1 lift #c in*es1 b[l #b in*es diamet]1 dwell pick4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #da4 ,at a radius ( #c in*es describe ! circle ,a 7,fig4 #da74 ,at a radius ( #d in*es describe ! circle ,b 7"o in* add$ = treadle b[l74 ,at a radius ( #g in*es describe ! circle ,c 7#c in*es add$ = lift74 ,!re be+ f\r picks 9 ! patt]n1 divide ! circles into f\r equal p>ts by ! l9es ,,de1 ,,fg4 ,!n ea* qu>t]-circle repres5ts "o pick1 & ! tappets mu/ be made to make "o revolution = f\r revolutions ( ! crank %aft4 ,z ! dwell ( ! heald 7:5 ! %$ is op57 mu/ be equal to half a pick1 or half a revolution ( ! crank %aft1 divide ! fir/ pick into f\r equal p>ts by ! po9ts ,o1 ,l1 ,m2 make ,,dp equal to ,,d1 & ,,fn equal to ,,fm1 & rule l9es f ,p1 ,o1 ,m1 ,n to ! c5tre4 ,! di/ance ,,om repres5ts ! half-pick dwell1 & ! di/ances ,,op & ,,mn repres5t ! half-pick :i* w be all[$ = *ang+ ! heald f bottom to top ( its /roke1 & vice v]s4 ,divide ,,op & ,,mn into six equal p>ts1 & ! lift ( tappet1 or ! di/ance betwe5 ! circles ,b & ,c1 into six unequal p>ts1 ! l>ge/ 9 ! middle & gradually decreas+ t[>ds ! two circles4 ,f ! corn]s ( ! unequal spaces describe ! small circles repres5t+ ! treadle b[l at diff]5t p>ts ( its /roke1 & draw ! outl9e ( ! tappet t\*+ ! extremities ( ^! circles4 ,a tappet ( ?is %ape act+ ^u a treadle b[l two in*es 9 diamet] w take ! heald d[n = "o pick & all[ x to g up = ?ree picks4 ,! heald w be held /ation>y = exactly half a pick :5 at ! bottom ( its /roke1 & w beg9 to rise sl[ly1 & gradually increase 9 spe$ z x approa*es ! c5tre ( its /roke1 & w gradually decrease 9 spe$ z x approa*es ! top ( its /roke4 ,! d[nw>d movem5t w be an exact c\nt]p>t ( ?is4 ,9 ?is k9d ( tappet x w be notic$ t ! heald1 :5 x gets to ! top 7if x is requir$ up = m ?an "o pick71 rema9s /ation>y until x is requir$ to come d[n4 ,?us ! heald rema9s at ! top :ile ! circles revolve f ,n to ,p4 ,= ?is twill !re w be f\r treadles1 ea* treadle be+ op]at$ by a tappet ( ! same %ape2 b ! tappet op]at+ ea* succe$+ treadle w be plac$ "o qu>t] ( a revolution lat] ?an ! previ\s "o4 ,! size ( ! treadle b[l has a v appreciable effect ^u ! %ape ( ! tappet1 m especially :5 !re are sev]al picks to ! r\nd4 ,! movem5t imp>t$ to ! c5tre ( ! treadle b[l w be ! exact movem5t giv5 to ! heald z f> z reg>ds dwell & ecc5tricity1 & z ! tappet acts on ! treadle b[l at a di/ance ( #a or #b in*es f ! c5tre1 ! requir$ am\nt ( dwell & ecc5tricity mu/ be giv5 to ! c5tre ( ! b[l1 & ! %ape ( ! tappet obta9$ accord+ly4 ,x w be notic$ at ,fig4 #da1 t to give a dwell ( half a pick to ! c5tre ( ! treadle b[l1 a slightly long] dwell is on ! tappet at ! inn] circle2 & z ! size ( ! treadle b[l increases1 ?is holl[+ out ( ! tappet mu/ be increas$ 9 ord] to keep ! dwell ( ! heald ! same4 ,fig4 #db is a draw+ ( a tappet = a #c d[n1 #a up1 #a d[n1 #a up 7six to ! r\nd7 twill4 ,c5tre ( tappet %aft to ne>e/ po9t ( contact ) b[l #d in*es1 lift ( tappet #b in*es1 b[l #a in* diamet]1 dwell "o-?ird ( a pick4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #db4 ,to con/ruct ?is tappet3--,at a radius ( #d in*es describe ! circle ,a4 ,at a radius ( #d in*es describe ! circle ,b4 ,at a radius ( #f in*es describe ! circle ,c4 ,z !re are six picks to ! r\nd1 divide ! circles into six equal p>ts by ! l9es ,d1 ,e1 ,f1 ,g1 ,h1 ,i4 ,z !re is "o-?ird pick dwell1 divide ea* pick into ?ree equal p>ts1 & take ! middle "o = dwell4 ,rule ! l9es ,l1 ,m1 ,n1 ,o1 ,p1 ,q1 ,r1 ,s to ! c5tre1 & divide ! spaces all[$ = *ange into six equal p>ts1 & ! di/ance betwe5 ! circles ,b & ,c into six unequal p>ts1 z 9 ! previ\s examples4 ,f ! corn]s ( ! unequal spaces describe ! circles repres5t+ ! movem5t ( ! treadle b[l1 & obta9 ! %ape ( ! tappet accord+ly4 ,x w be notic$ t at po9t ,l ! treadle b[l beg9s to dwell1 & rema9s /ation>y until x rea*es ! po9t ,s1 :5 x beg9s to g up4 ,! heald w ?us be d[n = ! fir/1 second1 & ?ird picks1 up = ! f\r?1 d[n = ! fif?1 & up = ! six?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dc4--,woodcr(t's ,tappet4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dd4 ,woodcr(t ,section ,tappet4--,sect4 #a1 ris] 7heald-up72 sect4 #b1 fall] 7heald-d[n72 sect4 #c1 left-h& ris]2 sect4 #d1 neutral ris]2 sect4 #e1 "r-h& ris]2 sect4 #f1 left-h& fall]2 sect4 #g1 neutral fall]2 sect4 #h1 "r-h& fall]4 ,woodcr(t's ,section ,tappets are mu* us$ 9 weav+ heavy goods1 su* z velvete5s & corduroys4 ,!y are made ) v>i\s numb]s ( sections to ! r\nd4 ,a s+le tappet plate ( "o twelve picks to ! r\nd is giv5 at ,fig4 #dc4 ,sections are sometimes made 9 two k9ds only4 ,^! are t]m$ 8ris]s0 & 8fall]s10 accord+ z !y raise or depress a heald respectively4 ,ea* heald requires "o plate & lev] ,l1 & z ! tappets revolve1 ! lev] ,l is mov$ up & d[n4 ,:5 ! lev] ,l is lift$1 ! heald is mov$ d[nw>ds4 ,a diff]5ce 9 ! "* ( ! %$ produc$ by ^! tappets z comp>$ ) ord9>y tappets w be notic$4 ,:5 ! lev] ,l is lift$ = two or m picks 9 succession1 x comes d[n ab\t half-way ea* pick4 ,?is is unavoidable 9 section tappets consi/+ only ( 8ris]0 & 8fall]0 sections1 :i* mu/ jo9 toge!r exactly :]ev] ins]t$1 !reby caus+ all ! healds to come t[>ds ! c5tre ( ! %$ aft] e pick4 ,if !re are twelve sections to ! r\nd1 any patt]n repeat+ on ?ree1 f\r1 six1 or twelve picks may be wov54 ,x is sometimes consid]$ an objectionable feature ( section tappets 7z repres5t$ 9 ,fig4 #dc7 t !y cause all healds to be br\ght level aft] e pick1 !reby produc+ j]ky %$d+4 ,?is objection1 h[ev]1 has be5 ov]come by ! con/ruction ( eight di/9ct v>ieties ( sections1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #dd1 :]eby healds may rema9 ei!r up or d[n = sev]al picks 9 succession on ! 8op5-%$0 pr9ciple1 z ) ord9>y box-plate tappets ca/ 9 "o piece4 ,,oscillat+ ,,tappets4 ,ano!r =m ( %$d+ device1 :i* embodies c]ta9 features ( ord9>y rot>y tappets & dobbies1 is t kn[n z ! oscillat+ or rock+ tappet1 an example ( :i* is %[n 9 ,fig4 #de4 ,?is type ( %$d+ motion consi/s ( a s]ies ( plates1 ,b1 ca/ ) upp] & l[] project+ ridges1 ,c1 ,d1 & fulcrum$ on %aft ,a1 ^u :i* !y oscillate 9 a mann] indicat$ by arr[s1 ,e4 ,a movem5t 9 ei!r direction repres5ts "o pick4 ,on ea* side ( ! rock+ %aft ,a1 & oscillat+ ) ! tappets1 is a patt]n *a91 ,f & ,f1 compos$ ( b[ls & bu%es ?read$ ^u sp9dles1 ,g4 ,patt]n *a9s1 :i* repres5t odd & ev5 picks respectively1 are rotat$ alt]nately & int]mitt5tly1 "o sp9dle = ea* pick1 !reby caus+ elb[-lev]s ,h to be rais$ or depress$1 accord+ to :e!r a b[l or a bu% is pres5t$ und]nea? !m respectively4 ,! v]tical arms ( ,h act ^u loose plates1 ,i 7t]m$ 8duck-bills071 :i* are fulcrum$ ^u %ort /uds1 ,j4 ,grooves may ?us be =m$ betwe5 ei!r ! upp] or l[] ridges ( tappet plates1 & ! upp] or l[] edges ( 8duck-bills10 :i* grooves1 by act+ ^u treadles ,k1 gov]n+ healds1 w op]ate ! latt] 9 a mann] det]m9$ by ! patt]n *a9s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #de4 ,oscillat+ tappets are situat$ at "o end ( a loom1 above ! crank %aft1 f :i* !y are driv5 by :eel ge>+ & suitable connect+ arms4 ,!y are *iefly employ$ on looms weav+ fu/ians & simil> heavy & /rong fabrics4 ,9 pla9 looms ) "u tappets1 ! healds are g5]ally connect$ r\nd a top roll] or cone1 s t :5 ! tappet is press+ "o /ave d[n1 x is also tak+ ! o!r /ave up4 ,! %$d+ is ?us positive4 ,= weav+ twills1 sat9s1 & su* weaves1 ei!r spr+1 roll]1 or pulley top motions are us$4 ,:]e spr+ tops are us$1 ! tappet pulls ! heald d[n1 & ! spr+ pulls x up aga94 ,( c\rse1 ! spe$ at :i* ! heald moves upw>d w be controll$ by ! %ape ( ! tappet exactly z x is 9 its d[nw>d /roke1 b 9 ! up /roke ( ! heald1 ! tappet is only act+ negatively4 ,) roll] tops ! movem5t is positive1 z ! roll]s are s con/ruct$ t z "o /ave is tak5 d[n by ! tappets ano!r is tak5 up4 ,if two /aves are tak5 d[n1 two w be tak5 up1 & ! tappets mu/ be con/ruct$ s z to all[ ?is4 ,x is v important also t ! tappets %\ld be ( ! prop] %ape1 & ! exact c\nt]p>t ( ea* o!r1 s t any "o /ave is all[$ to g up at exactly ! same spe$1 & ) ! same am\nt ( ecc5tricity 9 its movem5t1 z any o!r /ave :i* is be+ tak5 d[n by ! tappets4 ,fig4 #df %[s ! top roll] arrangem5t = pla9 clo?4 ,/raps are connect$ to ! /aves ov] ! roll]s ,k1 ,k#a2 s t :5 "o /ave is tak5 d[n by ! tappet1 ! o!r is tak5 up4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #df4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dg4 ,= ?ree /aves ! arrangem5t ( roll]s z %[n at ,fig4 #dg is us$4 ,! diamet] ( ,b mu/ be twice t ( ,a4 ,sometimes a pulley is us$ at ,c1 b :5 x is a roll]1 x is fitt$ into slots at ! ends s z to all[ ( its be+ lift$4 ,! diamet] ( ,c is immat]ial1 b ! reason = ,b & ,a be+ z #b3 #a is t :5 ! fir/ heald is tak5 d[n1 ei!r ! second or ?ird mu/ be tak5 up ! same di/ance4 ,suppose ! fir/ /ave is pull$ d[n a di/ance ( #d in*es1 ! /rap ,e1 be+ fa/5$ to ! roll] ,a1 :i* is half ! size ( ,b1 w be tak5 up only two in*es2 & z ! tappets are con/ruct$ s z to all[ only "o heald to g up ea* pick1 if ?is heald is ! second "o1 ! ?ird be+ immovable1 ! second w be tak5 up #d in*es1 or ! same di/ance t ! fir/ 0 tak5 d[n4 ,if ! /rap ,e 7 fa/5$ to ,b1 ! /ave w\ld be tak5 up eight in*es in/ead ( f\r4 ,?is arrangem5t ( roll]s is suitable = a #b & #a twill2 ei!r #b d[n & #a up1 or #a d[n & #b up4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #di4 ,= f\r /aves ! arrangem5t %[n at ,fig4 #dh is us$4 ,! relative size ( ! roll]s 9 ?is case is immat]ial4 ,if ! fir/ /ave is pull$ d[n by ! tappet #d in*es1 & ! second is ! "o all[$ to g up1 x w be tak5 up ! same di/ance4 ,if ! fir/ is be+ pull$ d[n #d in*es1 & ! ?ird is ! "o all[$ to g up1 ! f\r? be+ immovable1 ! /rap ,a is pull$ d[n #b in*es1 & ,b lift$ two in*es1 & ! ?ird /ave w be lift$ #d in*es4 ,if any "o ( ! f\r healds is pull$ d[n1 ano!r w be lift$ ! same di/ance4 ,?is motion c be us$ = ei!r a #c & #a twill or a #b & #b twill1 or any f\r-/ave patt]n ) ! same numb] ( /aves go+ up z are go+ d[n ea* pick4 ,! arrangem5t %[n at ,fig4 #di1 9 :i* ! top roll] is disp5s$ )1 is sometimes us$ = a #b & #b twill4 ,x w n "w a #c & #a patt]n4 ,! pr9ciple ( ?is w be und]/ood by c>efully foll[+ ! movem5t ( /aves 9 weav+ a #b & #b twill4 ,! draft us$ ) ,fig4 #di mu/ be #a1 #c1 #b1 #d1 or ! fir/ end mu/ be drawn ?r\gh ! fir/ /ave1 ! second end ?r\gh ! ?ird /ave1 ! ?ird end ?r\gh ! second /ave1 & ! f\r? ?r\gh ! f\r? /ave4 ,if ! patt]n is ! "o %[n at ,fig4 #ej1 9 :i* ! fir/ & second ends are d[n = ! fir/ pick1 x is obvi\s t to effect ?is ! fir/ & ?ird /aves w be d[n = t pick1 & ! second & f\r? /aves w be up4 ,= ! second pick ! second & ?ird ends are d[n1 & z ^! are drawn ?r\gh ! ?ird & second /aves respectively1 ^! /aves mu/ be d[n = ! second pick4 ,z ! ?ird is already d[n1 x is only necess>y to take ! second d[n1 :i* w pull ! fir/ up z requir$4 ,! *anges 9 ?is patt]n w be easily und]/ood f ! foll[+3-- #a/ pick3 #a/ & #crd /aves d[n1 #bnd & #d? /aves up4 #bnd pick3 #crd & #bnd /aves d[n1 #e? & #crd /aves up4 #crd pick3 #bnd & #d? /aves d[n1 #a/ & #crd /aves up4 #d? ,pick3 #d? & #a/ /aves d[n1 #crd & #bnd /aves up4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ej4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ea4 ,fig4 #ea %[s a top-roll] device = five healds1 ) bottom heald /aves connect$ to treadles t are op]at$ by tappets1 ,j1 fix$ ^u a %aft und]nea?1 b a little 9 front ( ! healds1 & driv5 by a tra9 ( :eels f a p9ion1 ,b1 on ! end ( ! crank %aft ,a4 ,?is top-roll] motion is design$ = a five-end weave 9 :i* ei!r "o heald only or else f\r healds1 mu/ be rais$ or depress$ = e pick1 uni=mly4 ,!re=e1 f\r ( ! five healds mu/ be susp5d$ f "o pair ( roll]s ,c1 & "o heald f ano!r pair ( roll]s ,d1 ) bo? pairs ( roll]s firmly secur$ to ! same %aft4 ,also1 9 ord] to obta9 ! prop] lev]age t w ensure ! f\r healds t are susp5d$ f roll]s ,c1 exactly c\nt]balanc+ ! "o heald susp5d$ f roll]s ,d1 ! diamet]s ( ! pairs ( roll]s ,c & ,d mu/ be 9 ! ratio ( "o to f\r1 respectively4 ,all %$d+ motions ( ?is type are bas$ on ! pr9ciple ( equilibrium1 :e!r !y are design$ z top-roll] motions1 to op]ate above ! healds1 or z /ocks & b[ls to op]ate bel[ ! healds4 ,!re=e1 9 all top-roll] motions1 ! diamet]s ( ! roll]s on ! same %aft mu/ always be 9 inv]se ratio to ! numb] ( healds susp5d$ f !m4 ,likewise ) /ocks & b[ls1 ! lev]age ( ! /ocks mu/ be 9 inv]se ratio to ! numb] ( healds to :i* ! respective ends ( ! /ocks or lev]s are connect$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eb4 ,an arrangem5t = sev5 /aves is giv5 at ,fig4 #eb4 ,! two pulleys ,a & ,b1 on ! same c5tre1 are 9 ! ratio ( #c3 #d1 & ! pulley ,d mu/ be twice ! diamet] ( ,c1 ! relative size ( ! rema9+ pulleys be+ immat]ial4 ,if ! fir/ /ave is pull$ d[n1 say1 #f in*es1 & ! sev5? /ave is ! "o all[$ to g up2 !n ! /rap ,e w be pull$ d[n #b in*es1 & ! /rap ,f tak5 up #a in*es1 ! /rap ,g #c in*es1 & ! /ave #f in*es1 :i* is ! same di/ance t ! o!r /ave 0 pull$ d[n4 ,x w be ! same ) any o!r healds 9 ! set4 ,if "o /ave is tak5 d[n1 any o!r "o left loose by ! tappet w be tak5 up ! same di/ance4 ,in/ead ( ! pulleys ,a & ,b1 a lev] may be us$ ) its two arms 9 ! ratio ( #c to #d1 ! f\r /aves be+ connect$ to ! %ort] arm1 & ! ?ree /aves to ! long] arm4 ,9 "s looms ! positions ( tappets & roll] heald-motions are inv]t$3 tappets be+ fix$ above1 & roll] motions bel[1 healds4 ,9 su* cases ! roll] motions are kn[n z 8/ocks & b[ls10 :i* t]ms1 h[ev]1 m correctly describe ^? devices consi/+ ( a comb9ation ( lev]s & b[ls1 or roll]s1 & n ^? consi/+ ( roll]s ^u %afts4 ,9 ei!r case1 !y are bas$ ^u ! same pr9ciple ( lev]age1 & act 9 an exactly simil> mann] to ea* o!r4 ,^! devices are v limit$ 9 _! scope1 z reg>ds v>iety ( weaves = :i* !y are suitable1 & may only be employ$ = weaves ( a regul> "*1 9 :i* ! numb] ( healds up & d[n is ! same = e pick4 ,( c\rse1 any numb] ( healds 9 a set may be up or d[n z requir$1 b :5 once t numb] is select$1 & healds are ti$ up accord+ly1 x may n be *ang$ )\t re-tie+ up4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ec4 ,fig4 #ec %[s a front & end elevation ( :at is kn[n z ! ,york%ire %$d+ motion1 9 :i* tappets are ca/ ^u a sleeve slid ^u "o end ( ! second motion or pick+ %aft ,d1 to op]ate treadles1 ,m1 fulcrum$ at ,n4 ,connect+ rods1 ,j1 connect treadles1 ,m1 ) quadrant jacks1 ,o1 secur$ to cross-b>s1 ,k4 ,^! s]ve z fulcra = ! jacks1 :i* are connect$ to upp] heald /aves1 ,p1 by means ( /raps & cords1 ,r1 :il/ bottom heald /aves are atta*$ by cords to spr+s1 ,s1 = ! purpose ( pull+ healds d[n1 aft] be+ rais$ by ! tappets4 ,,pick+4 ,z soon z a w>p-%$ is suffici5tly op5$ by ! healds1 ! %uttle1 conta9+ weft1 is propell$ ?r\gh x4 ,t op]ation is t]m$ 8pick+10 & may be accompli%$ by ei!r ( two types ( pick+ motions kn[n z 8ov]0 & 8"u0 pick+ motions4 ,! 8ov]-pick10 also kn[n z ! 8cone0 & ,blackburn pick 7,fig4 #ed71 is 9 mo/ g5]al use1 especially = n>r[ & quick-runn+ looms weav+ light & m$ium-weight fabrics2 :il/ ! 8"u-pick0 7,figs4 #ef & #eg71 ( :i* !re are _m modifications1 is *iefly conf9$ to m$ium & broad looms1 :i* require a pick+ motion capable ( develop+ great] =ce4 ,a %uttle is propell$ by a pick] made ( hide1 :i* is connect$ by means ( a lea!r /rap to ! pick+ /ick ,a 7,fig4 #ed74 ,! upright %aft ,b is ! fulcrum ( ! lev]4 ,! cone ,c is ! %ort arm ( ! lev] :i* receives ! =ce f ! pick+ tappet ,d4 ,! tappet is s %ap$ t z x revolves x gives a sudd5 quick movem5t to ! cone-%ap$ /ud1 & !re=e to ! %uttle4 ,x is obvi\s t z ! %uttle mu/ move f "o side ( ! loom to ! o!r1 & back aga91 = two revolutions ( ! crank %aft1 ! pick+ tappets mu/ be plac$ on a %aft ^: spe$ is "o-half t ( ! crank %aft2 !re=e ! bottom %aft 9 ! loom on ?is acc\nt is made to move at ! requir$ spe$1 & ! pick+ tappets are plac$ on ?is %aft at opposite sides ( ! loom4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ed4 ,! *ief requirem5t 9 a good pick is t z little =ce z possible %all be wa/$ 9 ! loom4 ,! relative positions ( ! tappet %aft & cone %\ld be su* t ! =ce is ex]t$ z ne>ly z possible 9 ! direction ( ! dott$ l9e ,e at "r angles ) ! upright %aft ,b4 ,x is impossible to effect ?is ?r\gh\t ! :ole c\rse ( ! /roke1 b x is obvi\s t if ?is is approa*$ z ne>ly z possible1 ! pick w be smoo?1 & ! we> & te> r$uc$ to a m9imum4 ,a v consid]able am\nt ( p[] is wa/$ if ! direction ( ! =ce is too mu* d[nw>d4 ,! direction ( ! =ce is at "r angles to a l9e drawn tang5t f ! cone at ! po9t ( connection ) ! pick+ tappet4 ,?us 9 ,fig4 #ed ! direction ( ! =ce is indicat$ by ! dott$ l9e ,m1 :i* is at "r angles to ! dott$ l9e ,n1 drawn tang5t to ! cone at ! po9t ( connection ) ! tappet4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ee4 ,! int5sity ( ! =ce dep5ds on ! l5g? ( ! /roke ( ! tappet & on ! sudd5ness ( ! curve ( ! work+ face4 ,if 9 two looms ! l5g? ( tappet is ! same1 b 9 "o ! portion ( a revolution occupi$ 9 mak+ ! /roke is less ?an 9 ! o!r1 !re w be a great] int5sity ( =ce 9 ! loom ) ! quick] /roke4 ,9 ,fig4 #ee ! portion ( a revolution occupi$ 9 mak+ ! /roke is indicat$ by ! angle ,,ab4 ,if ?is angle is increas$1 ! =ce ( ! pick w be less5$1 & if ! angle be decreas$1 ! =ce ( ! pick w be augm5t$4 ,x w be und]/ood f ?is t if ! pick+ tappets are %ort ! pick is liable to be h>%4 ,if a fair l5g? ( tappet is giv51 a smoo!r & bett]-tim$ pick c be made4 ,! curve on ! pick+ tappet gradually approa*es a radial l9e z x ne>s ! end ( ! /roke1 b ! comb9$ influ5ce ( ! *ange 9 ! position ( ! cone & ! backw>d movem5t ( ! slay causes ! %uttle to move quicke/ 9 ! e>ly "p ( its movem5t 9 ! box4 ,!re is a relation betwe5 ! l5g? ( ! %uttle-box & ! l5g? ( ! pick+ tappet4 ,if ! tappet is a %ort "o1 ! %uttle-box mu/ be %ort2 & if a long] tappet is us$--! lev]age ( ! pick+ arm & o!r p>ts be+ ! same--! %uttle-box w be long]4 ,x is obvi\sly inadvisable to h too %ort a tappet1 z ! movem5t ( ! %uttle 9 ! box mu/ 9 t case be extremely sudd51 9 ord] to h ! necess>y =ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ef4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eg4 ,an und]pick motion is giv5 at ,fig4 #ef4 ,a pick+ treadle1 ,a1 c5tr$ at ,c1 is press$ sudd5ly d[n by ! pick+ b[l ,b1 :i* is fa/5$ on to ! :eel on ! bottom %aft 9 ! loom4 ,a /rap1 ,e1 connects ! treadle & ! pick+ lev]4 ,9 ,fig4 #eg ?is connection is %[n4 ,! /rap f ! treadle is fa/5$ to ! quadrant1 & z ! treadle is press$ sudd5ly d[n1 ! pick+ lev] ,h is mov$ =w>d4 ,! %ape ( ! curve ,e1 :i* ! pick+ b[l /rikes1 regulates ! "* ( ! movem5t giv5 to ! lev] ,h1 & x is well n to h ! curve too small & sudd51 or ! pick w n be satisfactory4 ,! curve on ! treadle 9 ,fig4 #hh 7p4 #abj7 is p]haps bett] ?an ! "o 9 ,fig4 #ef1 z x is long]1 & is !re=e n liable to be s j]ky4 ,!re are num]\s o!r pick+ motions1 :i* *iefly diff] 9 ! me*anism = actuat+ ! pick+ lev]4 ,beat+ up ! ,weft is ! ?ird prim>y movem5t 9 weav+4 ,?is movem5t is p]=m$ by a crank on ! top %aft 9 ! loom & a connect+ rod or crank-arm :i* connects ! crank & ! slay toge!r4 ,?is is %[n at ,fig4 #ch1 :]e ! crank ,c & crank-arm ,d give a reciprocat+ movem5t to ! slay ,s4 ,! slay moves ^u a rock+ %aft1 ,e1 z a fulcrum1 & :5 ! crank is at ! front c5tre ! slay-swords %\ld be p]p5dicul>1 or ne>ly s4 ,sometimes ! fulcrum is tak5 a little =w>d1 b x is nev] advisable to h ! slay ov] ! p]p5dicul> :5 9 contact ) ! clo?4 ,! movem5t ( ! slay %\ld be ecc5tric4 ,x is obvi\s t :5 ! slay is at ! back ( its /roke its movem5t %\ld be suffici5tly sl[ to all[ "t = ! %uttle to pass ?r\gh ! %$2 & t :5 beat+ up1 ! spe$ ( ! slay %\ld be suffici5t to knock ! weft firmly into ! clo?4 ,a crank & crank-arm give ! k9d ( movem5t requir$4 ,! ecc5tricity ( ! slay's movem5t dep5ds ^u ! l5g? ( ! crank & crank-arm1 & ^u ! position ( ! crank-%aft 9 relation to ! po9t ( connection ( ! crank-arm ) ! slay4 ,! position ( ! crank-%aft 9 relation to ! connect+ p9 v>ies 9 diff]5t makes & wid?s ( looms4 ,we %all see t ! position ( ! %aft & ! direction 9 :i* ! loom runs h an important be>+ on ! =ce ex]t$ by ! slay 9 beat+ up ! weft4 ,= ord9>y looms ! usual position ( ! %aft is a little bel[ ! level ( ! connect+ p9 :5 at ! front c5tre1 & :5 ! %aft is 9 ?is position ! movem5t ( ! slay is ! mo/ ev5 & lea/ ecc5tric4 ,to obta9 ?is position ( ! crank-%aft 9 a diagram1 fir/ draw ! l9e ,,sa 7,fig4 #eh7 to repres5t ! slay-sword :5 ! re$ is 9 contact ) ! clo?2 ?is we w assume is p]p5dicul>4 ,we w suppose ,,sa to be #bd in*es1 ,s be+ ! rock+ %aft & ,a ! connect+ p9 :i* connects ! crank-arm ) ! slay4 ,suppose ! loom we are deal+ ) to h a #c-;in* crank & a #ab-;in* crank-arm4 ,describe ! arc ,,an f ! c5tre ,s1 & m>k (f on ! arc a di/ance f ,a equal to twice ! l5g? ( ! crank4 ,z ! crank is #c in*es long1 m>k (f ! po9t ,b1 #f in*es f ,a4 ,?is po9t ,b repres5ts ! position ( ! connect+ p9 :5 ! slay is at ! back ( its /roke4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eh4 ,f ,a1 rule ! l9e ,,ax 9 su* a position t ! arc ,,ab makes ! lea/ possible dep>ture f x4 ,x w be f\nd t ?is necessitates ,,ax cutt+ ! arc ,,ab at a po9t a little pa/ ! middle ( ! arc4 ,) ! l5g? ( ! crank & crank-arm1 viz4 #ae in*es1 9 ! compasses1 f ,a z ! c5tre cut ! l9e ,,ax at ,e1 & ?is gives ! position = ! crank-%aft :i* w give ! lea/ possible ecc5tricity to ! slay4 ,?is w be obvi\s1 z ! ne>] ! connect+ p9 moves on ! /raight l9e ,,ax1 ! less w be ! ecc5tricity ( ! slay4 ,t ! movem5t ( ! slay 9 ! back half ( its /roke is sl[] ?an 9 ! front half c easily be prov$ by tak+ ! l5g? ( ! crank-arm 9 ! compasses1 &1 aft] bisect+ ! arc ,,ab at ,c1 f ,c m>k+ (f ! po9ts ,d & ,h on ! crank circle4 ,x w be se5 t bo? ^! po9ts are some:at inside ! top & bottom c5tres ( ! crank indicat$ by ! dott$ l9e1 & !re=e ! slay moves f ,c to ,a & back1 ! front half ( its /roke1 9 less "t ?an x moves f ,c to ,b & back to ,c4 ,! reason = ?is ecc5tricity or unev5ness 9 ! movem5t ( ! slay is t :5 ! crank is mov+ f ! back c5tre to ! top c5tre ! crank-arm is oscillat+ & op5+ an angle ) ,,ax :ile ! slay is mov+ =w>d1 & !re=e :ile ! crank is mak+ ?is qu>t] ( a revolution1 ! connect+ p9 ( ! slay w move some?+ less ?an f ,b to ,c2 & :ile ! crank is mov+ f ! top c5tre to ! front c5tre1 ! crank-arm is /raight5+ or clos+ ! angle :ile ! slay is mov+ =w>d1 & ?us ! connect+ p9 w move a great] di/ance ?an f ,c to ,a :ile ! crank is mak+ ?is qu>t] ( a revolution4 ,:5 ! crank moves f front to bottom c5tre ! angle is op5+ :ile ! slay is mov+ backw>ds1 & !re=e ! p9 w move a little m ?an f ,a to ,c2 & :5 ! crank moves f bottom to back c5tre ! angle is clos+ :ile ! slay moves backw>ds1 ?us ret>d+ ! velocity ( ! slay4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ei4 ,?is w be bett] und]/ood f ,fig4 #ei1 :]e ,,cd is ! crank-arm1 & ,,ed ! crank at ! top c5tre4 ,a is ! position ( ! connect+ p9 :5 at ! front ( its /roke1 & ,b its position :5 at ! back ( its /roke4 ,! dim5sions are z 9 ,fig4 #eh--viz4 #ab-;in* arm1 #c-;in* crank--& = simplicity we w assume ! connect+ p9 moves on ! /raight l9e ,,ae4 ,f ,a to ,b is #f in*es1 & !re=e x is obvi\s t ,,ac is some?+ ov] #c in*es1 & t ! connect+ p9 moves ?is di/ance :il/ ! crank is mak+ ! qu>t] ( a revolution f top to front c5tre4 ,! di/ance ,,ac c be obta9$ z foll[s4 ,x is obvi\s t ,,cde is a "r-h&$ triangle1 & !re=e ,,cd#b is equal to ,,ce#b ,,ed#b4 ,!re=e ,,cd#b-;,,ed#b ,,ce#b1 & hav+ obta9$ ! l5g? ( ,,ce1 we c subtract ?is f ,,ae1 :i* leaves ! l5g? ( ,,ac4 ,! =mula w /& ?us-- ,,cd#b - ,,ed#b ,,ce#b #abb - #cb #add - #i #ace ,,ce#b & ,,ce 7#ace7 or #aafahi l5g? ( ,,ae #aejjjj in*es #aafahi in*es ------- ,,ac #cchaa in*es ,! answ] may be obta9$ 9 "o calculation z foll[s3-- ,,ae - 7,,cd#b - ,,ed#b7 ,,ac or #ae - 7#abb - #cb7 #ae - 7#add - #i7 #ae - 7#ace7 #ae - #aafahi #cchaa ,we ?us see t ! connect+ p9 moves #c in*es #jchaa in* :ile ! crank is mov+ f ! top to front c5tre4 ,x w also move ! same di/ance :ile ! crank moves f front to bottom c5tre4 ,:5 ! crank is mov+ f ! bottom to ! back c5tre1 ! connect+ p9 w move #c in*es - #jchaa4 #cjjjj #jchaa ------ #bfahi in*es1 & ! same di/ance :5 ! crank moves f back to top c5tre4 ,x is (t5 necess>y 9 comp>+ looms to obta9 ! di/ance travell$ by ! connect+ p9 = a small] movem5t ( ! crank ?an a qu>t] ( a revolution4 ,suppose x is desir$ to f9d ! di/ance travell$ by ! connect+ p9 :ile ! crank moves ?r\gh #cj degrees to ! front c5tre4 ,take a #d-;in* crank & #ab-;in* crank-arm4 ,9 ,fig4 #fj1 ,,ed is ! crank1 #d in*es1 & ,,dc ! crank-arm1 #ab in*es1 ! angle ,o #cj degrees4 ,p is ! position ( ! connect+ p9 :5 at front ( its /roke4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fj4 ,to f9d ! di/ance ,,cp4 ,f a table ( natural s9es we c obta9 ! s9e ( an angle ( #cj degrees1 viz1 s9 #cj #je1 & !re=e1 kn[+ ! l5g? ( ,,ed1 viz4 #d in*es1 we c obta9 ! l5g? ( ,,dn1 x be+ #je1 or half ( ,,ed1 9 an angle ( #cj degrees4 ,hav+ two sides ( a triangle1 we c obta9 ! ?ird side ?us3 ,,ed#b - ,,dn#b ,,en#b & ,,cd#b - ,,dn#b ,,cn#b ,hav+ obta9$ ! l5g? ( ,,cn & ,,en1 we c easily obta9 ,,cp by subtract+ ,,cf f ! l5g? ( crank & crank-arm toge!r4 ,work+ out ! problem 9 figures we get-- ,,ed#b - ,,dn#b ,,en#b #db - #bb ,,en#b #af - #d ,,en#b #ab ,,en#b ,,en 7#ab7 or #cdfda4 ,& ,,cd#b - ,,dn#b ,,cn#b #abb - #bb ,,cn#b #add - #d ,,cn#b #adj ,,cn#b ,,cn 7#adj7 or #aahcba & #aahcba #cdfda #aebifb ,!re=e ,,ce #aebifb in*es1 & subtract+ ?is f ,,pe1 :i* is #af in*es 7#ab #d #af71 we get #af-aebifb #jgjch z ! di/ance ,,cp1 :i* is ! di/ance mov$ by ! connect+ p9 = ! #cj degrees movem5t ( ! crank4 ,! complete =mula is z foll[s3-- ,,pe-7,,ed#b-;,,dn#b7 7,,dc#b-;,,dn#b7 ,,cp1 or di/ance mov$ by ! connect+ p9 = ! giv5 numb] ( degrees ?r\gh :i* ! crank moves1 ,,nd be+ obta9$ f a table ( s9es4 ,to f9d ! di/ance mov$ by ! connect+ p9 :ile ! crank moves ?r\gh #e degrees--say1 f #cj degrees to #be degrees 9 beat+ up4 ,to solve ?is x w only be necess>y to subtract ! l5g? ( ,,ce :5 ! crank is =m+ an angle ( #cj degrees f ! l5g? ( ,,ce :5 ! crank =ms an angle ( #be degrees4 ,9 ! previ\s example we f\nd t = #cj degrees1 ,,ce #aebifb in*es1 & !re=e proce$+ 9 ! same mann] = #be degrees1 we get f table ( s9es1 s9 #be #jdbbf1 & #jdbbf ( #d in*es #afi2 !re=e ,,nd #afi in*es1 & #db - #afib ,,en#b #af - #bhef ,,en#b #acadd ,,en#b ,,en 7#acadd7 or #cfbf & #abb - #afib ,,cn#b #add - #bhef ,,cn#b #adaadd ,,cn#b ,,cn 7#adaadd7 #aahh2 !re=e ,,cn #aahh in*es1 & ,,ce w equal #aahh #bfbf1 or #aeejf in*es1 :5 ! crank is =m+ an angle ( #be degrees4 #aeejf l5g? ( ,,ce = #be degrees #aebif l5g? ( ,,ce = #cj degrees ------ in*es #jbaj di/ance mov$ by p9 :il/ crank moves ?r\gh #e degrees1 f #cj degrees to #be degrees1 9 beat+ up4 ,9 ?is mann] x is easy to calculate ! di/ance travell$ by ! p9 = any numb] ( degrees mov$ by ! crank1 & by comp>+ ! velocity ( ! slay 9 diff]5t looms1 ! =ce ( ! beat up c be comp>$4 ,! =ce ex]t$ by ! slay v>ies z ! squ>e ( its velocity4 ,?us1 if 9 two looms :]e ! weight ( ! two slays & ! t5sion on ! two w>ps are ! same1 ! velocity ( ! slay 9 "o loom is twice t ( ! o!r at a c]ta9 po9t 9 ! beat up1 ! =ce ( ! =m] slay at t p>ticul> po9t w be f\r times ! =ce ( ! latt]1 #ab3 #bb #a3 #d4 ,we c ?us comp>e ! =ce ex]t$ by ! slay 9 diff]5t looms at any po9t ( ! beat up4 ,! =ce ( ! beat up is *iefly ex]t$ ^u ! pick :5 ! crank is ne>ly at ! front c5tre1 & ! =ce ex]t$ w also dep5d consid]ably ^u ! t5sion on ! w>p2 b ! slay is do+ "s "w 9 beat+ up f ! mom5t ! re$ beg9s to move ! pick =w>d4 ,possibly ! mo/ reliable me?od ( comp>+ ! =ce ( ! beat up 9 diff]5t looms is to calculate ! "t occupi$ by ! slay 9 mov+ ?r\gh a specifi$ di/ance at ! front ( its /roke 9 beat+ up4 ,?is necessitates a r diff]5t calculation to ! prec$+ examples1 b is equally z simple4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fa4 ,suppose x is requir$ to comp>e ! =ce ex]t$ by ! slay 9 beat+ up 7say ! front #a in* ( its /roke7 9 two looms1 "o ) a #ab-;in* crank-arm & #c-;in* crank & ! o!r ) an #aa-;in* arm & #d-;in* crank4 ,! weight ( ! slays1 ! spe$ ( ! looms1 ! t5sion on ! w>ps1 & ! tim+ ( ! prim>y movem5ts1 ! same 9 ea* case4 ,9 ,fig4 #fa ! small] circle repres5ts ! #c-;in* crank & ! l>g] "o ! #d-;in* crank4 ,,cp #a-;in*1 ,,cb #aa-;in* arm1 & ,,cd ! #ab-;in* arm4 ,x is obvi\s t if we c obta9 ! two angles made by ! cranks1 viz4 ,,cab & ,,cad1 we %all be able to get ! "t1 or fraction ( a revolution1 occupi$ 9 mov+ ! slay f ,c to ,p4 ,z we "k ! ?ree sides ( ! triangle we c obta9 ! angle enclos$ by any two sides1 & :at is requir$ 9 ?is case is to obta9 ! angles ,,bac & ,,dac4 ,9 triangles ( ?is k9d :]e !re is no "r angle1 we c obta9 ! cos9e ( ! angle z foll[s3-- ,,ca#b ,,ad#b - ,,dc#b ------------------ ,,aq1 ! cos9e ( angle ,,dac1 #b;,,ca4,,ad & ,,ca#b ,,ab#b - ,,bc#b ------------------ ,,an1 ! cos9e ( angle ,,bac4 #b;,,ca4,,ab ,! pro( ( ?is =mula is giv5 9 ,euclid1 ,book #b4 ,hav+ obta9$ ! cos9es ( ! two angles1 we c f9d ! angles !mselves by ref]r+ to a table ( s9es & cos9es4 ,!n z ,,ap #ae in*es1 ,,ca #ad1 ,,ad #c in*es1 ,,dc #ab in*es1 ,,ba #d in*es1 ,,bc #aa in*es2 & r$uc+ ! =mul to figures1 we get3 #adb #cb - #abb #aif #af - #add ----------------- -------------- #jgbfb cos9e1 #b 7#ad #c7 #hd & by ref]r+ to a table ( s9es1 we f9d t cos9e #jgbfb angle #dc #bf1 !re=e angle ,,dac #dc1 ab\t4 ,also #adb #db - #aab #aif #af - #aba #ia ----------------- -------------- --- #jhabe1 #b 7#ad #c7 #aab #aab & by ref]r+ to a table ( s9es & cos9es1 we f9d cos9e #jhabe angle #ce4 ,we ?us f9d t to move ! connect+ p9 #a in* to ! front ( ! /roke1 9 ! loom ) #aa-;in* arm1 ! #d-;in* crank w move ?r\gh #ce1 & 9 ! loom ) ! #ab-;in* arm ! #c-;in* crank w move ?r\gh #dc = ! same movem5t ( ! slay4 ,assum+ ! =ce ex]t$ by ! latt] to be #a1 ! =ce ( ! =m] w be z #ce squ>$3 #dc squ>$ #a3 ,ans4 ,x may be z well "h to give a %ort explanation ( ! sy/em ( obta9+ angles by s9es & cos9es4 ,z ! crank moves =w>d x is obvi\s t ! l9e ,,dq w become %ort]1 & z ! angle becomes l>g] ! l9e ,,dq w increase 9 l5g?4 ,9 trigonometry1 ! ratio betwe5 ! l5g? ( ! l9e ,,dq & ! radius ,,ad is call$ ! s9e ( ! angle1 & if ! radius is #a1 ! l5g? ( ,,dq w be ! value ( ! s9e4 ,9 an angle ( #cj ! s9e is exactly ! radius1 & ! relation betwe5 ! radius & ! s9e = e angle is kn[n1 & arrang$ 9 8tables ( s9es40 ,! l5g? ( ,,aq w also v>y ) ! angle1 & ! l5g? ( ?is l9e is call$ ! 8cos9e0 ( ! angle ,,qad4 ,! cos9e ( an angle ( #cj is !re=e ! same z ! s9e ( an angle ( #fj4 ,:5 ! s9e is kn[n x is easy to obta9 ! cos9e z foll[s3-- ,cos9e 7#a-s9#b74 ,?us = an angle ( #cj1 cos9e 7#a-jeb71 or cos#b #a-jeb1 !re=e cos#b #a-jbe1 or cos#b #jge1 cos #jge #jhff4 ,by rev]s+1 ! s9e may be obta9$ f ! cos9e4 ,! value giv5 to ! s9es & cos9es mu/ n be tak5 = ! actual l5g? ( ! l9es2 !y are simply ! ratio to ! radius4 ,?us 9 an angle ( #cj1 if ! radius is #a in* ! l5g? ( ! s9e w be in* & ! cos9e #jhff in*4 ,if ! radius is #b in*es1 ! actual l5g? ( ! s9e w be #a in* & ( ! cos9e #agcb in*es4 ,,table ,,( ,,s9es ,,& ,,cos9es4 ------------------------------ ,angle4 ,s9e4 ,cos9e4,angle4 ------------------------------ #j #jjj #ajj #ij #a #jage #iiih #hi #b #jcdi #iiid #hh #c #jebc #iihf #hg #d #jfih #iigf #hf #e #jhgb #iifb #he #f #ajde #iide #hd #g #abai #iibe #hc #h #acib #iijc #hb #i #aefd #ihgg #ha #aj #agcf #ihdh #hj #aa #aijh #ihaf #gi #ab #bjgi #igha #gh #ac #bbej #igdd #gg #ad #bdai #igjc #gf #ae #behh #ifei #ge #af #bgef #ifac #gd #ag #bibd #iefc #gc #ah #cjij #ieaa #gb #ai #cbef #idee #ga #bj #cdbj #icig #gj #ba #cehd #iccf #fi #bb #cgdf #ibgb #fh #bc #cijg #ibje #fg #bd #djfg #iace #ff #be #dbbf #ijfc #fe #bf #dchd #hihh #fd #bg #dedj #hiaj #fc #bh #dfie #hhbi #fb #bi #dhdh #hgdf #fa #cj #ejjj #hffj #fj #ca #eaej #hegb #ei #cb #ebii #hdhj #eh #cc #eddf #hchg #eg #cd #eeib #hbij #ef #ce #egcf #haib #ee #cf #ehgh #hjij #ed #cg #fjah #gihf #ec #ch #faeg #ghhj #eb #ci #fbic #ggga #ea #dj #fdbh #gffj #ej #da #fefa #gedg #di #db #ffia #gdca #dh #dc #fhbj #gcad #dg #dd #fidg #gaic #df #de #gjga #gjga #de ,angle ,cos9e ,s9e ,angle ------------------------------ ,we see f ,fig4 #fa t 9 a loom ) a #d-;in* crank & #aa-;in* arm1 ! velocity ( ! slay is mu* great] :5 beat+ up ?an ) ! #c-;in* crank & #ab-;in* arm4 ,! effect ( ! l5g? ( ! crank-arm on ! velocity ( ! slay c easily be %[n by a diagram or by calculation4 ,if ! l5g? ( ! crank-arm be alt]$ )\t alt]+ ! l5g? ( ! crank1 !re w be f\nd a some:at quick] movem5t ( ! slay at ! beat up 9 ! loom ) ! %ort] arm4 ,! diff]5ce is n s great :5 ! crank-arm is a long "o 9 proportion to ! crank4 ,! *ief cause ( ! diff]5ce 9 ! velocity ( ,c 9 ,fig4 #fa is ! diff]5ce 9 ! l5g? ( ! crank4 ,x is obvi\s t ! long] ! crank ! great] ! angle :i* x w cause ! arm to make1 & !re=e ! great] w be ! accel]ation ( ! velocity ( ,c :5 ! angle is clos+ & ! slay mov+ =w>d4 ,likewise1 x is obvi\s t ! %ort] ! arm ! l>g] w be ! angle to close1 b ! pr9cipal ?+ to notice is t an increase 9 ! l5g? ( ! crank causes an increase 9 ! velocity ( ! slay ow+ to ! extra di/ance :i* x has to travel 9 ea* revolution2 s t ev5 if ! crank-arm 7 l5g!n$ 9 exact proportion to ! increase 9 ! l5g? ( ! crank1 s z to keep ! angle to be clos$ 9 beat+ up ! same1 !re w\ld /ill be a consid]able increase 9 ! velocity ( ! slay1 caus$ by ! extra di/ance x has to travel4 ,?is l5g!n+ ( ! crank has obvi\sly mu* m to d ) ! increase 9 velocity ( ! slay ?an ! %ort5+ ( ! arm has4 ,! long] ! crank ! fur!r back f ! clo? w ! slay be tak51 & assum+ t ! %$ is op5 = ! %uttle :5 ! crank is at ! bottom c5tre1 a long crank is obvi\sly m suitable = a wide loom1 z1 hav+ to move fur!r back1 x w all[ a long] "t = ! %uttle to pass ?r\gh ! %$ ?an a %ort crank w\ld2 !re=e ! wid] ! loom1 ! long] ! crank is requir$ to be to all[ "t = ! %uttle to pass4 ,! "t all[$ = ! passage ( ! %uttle may also be increas$ by us+ a %ort arm s z to increase ! ecc5tricity ( ! slay4 ,! long] ! crank1 ! great] ! velocity ( ! slay1 !re=e a long crank is suitable = heavy "w1 z x /ores up m =ce 9 ! slay ?an a %ort "o4 ,! =ce may also be increas$ by %ort5+ ! crank-arm1 ?us increas+ ! ecc5tricity ( ! slay4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fb4 ,! position ( ! crank-%aft 9 relation to ! connect+ p9 has "s effect ^u ! ecc5tricity ( ! slay's movem5t4 ,fig4 #fb %[s ?is1 b to see cle>ly ! effect x w\ld be advisable to make an accurate draw+ to a l>ge scale4 ,f\r positions ( ! crank-%aft are %[n4 ,! "o on ! l9e ,a is j a little bel[ ! level ( ! connect+ p91 s t ! p9 moves z ne>ly z possible on ! l9e ,a :5 mak+ ! front qu>t] ( its /roke4 ,! circle on ! l9e ,b is ! position :]e ! p9 moves z ne>ly z possible on l9e ,b :5 at ! back qu>t] ( its /roke2 ,d is any high] plane1 & ,c any l[] "o4 ,divide ! /roke ( ! connect+ p9 ,,lr into f\r equal p>ts1 & f ,s1 ) ! crank-arm 9 ! compasses1 cut ! circles ) ! arc ,e1 & f ,t cut ! circles ) ! arc ,f4 ,x w be f\nd t 9 ! circle ,a1 ,,op is slightly long] ?an 9 any ( ! o!r circles2 !re=e ?is is ! position :]e ! beat up is sl[e/4 ,x w also be f\nd t 9 ! circles ,b & ,c !re is sc>cely any diff]5ce 9 ,,op1 !re=e s9k+ ! crank-%aft f )9 reasonable limits makes v little diff]5ce2 if any?+1 !re is a slight decrease 9 ! size ( ,,op z ! plane is l[]$1 b x is v slight1 & ! increase 9 ! velocity ( slay w\ld also be v slight4 ,on ! o!r h&1 by rais+ ! crank-%aft to ,d a consid]able increase 9 ! velocity ( ! slay 9 beat+ up takes place1 z x w be f\nd t 9 ?is circle ,,op is mu* less ?an 9 ! o!rs4 ,at ! back ( ! /roke x w be f\nd t 9 ! plane ,b ! di/ance ,,xy is lea/2 !re=e !re is "h ! lea/ dwell ( ! slay at ! back ( its /roke ) ! %aft 9 ?is position4 ,?is is because ! p9 moves z ne>ly z possible on ! l9e ,b :il/ ! crank is at ! back "p ( its /roke4 ,z ! crank is rais$ or l[]$ ! dwell at ! back increases slightly4 ,rev]s+ ! direction ( ! loom makes a diff]5ce 9 ! beat-up4 ,x w be f\nd t 9 ! circle ,a1 ,,op & ,,on are ab\t equal1 !re=e !re w be sc>cely any *ange 9 ! velocity ( beat-up by rev]s+ ! loom2 b z ! %aft is l[]$ ,,on w be f\nd to become less ?an ,,op1 & !re=e a quick] bl[ is giv5 by rev]s+ ! loom if ! %aft is 9 ?is position4 ,if ! %aft is rais$1 z 9 ! case ( circle ,d1 x w be f\nd t ,,on becomes great] ?an ,,op2 !re=e ) ! crank above ,a1 rev]s+ ! direction ( ! loom w cause a sl[] & weak] beat-up4 ,9 ! diagram1 ,fig4 #fb1 ! crank & crank-arm are ! same l5g? = ea* position1 ! c5tre ( ! %aft be+ indicat$ by ! dott$ arc4 ,tim+ ( ! ,prim>y ,movem5ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fc4 ,! prim>y movem5ts1 %$d+1 pick+1 & beat+ up1 are tim$ diff]5tly 9 relation to ea* o!r 9 weav+ diff]5t classes ( fabrics4 ,= pla9 clo?s1 or o!r clo?s :]e a good cov] is requir$--t is1 :]e ! w>p has to be spread--! crank %\ld be set ab\t ! top c5tre :5 ! healds are cross+ ea* o!r4 ,at ,fig4 #ch ! loom is tim$ 9 ?is mann]4 ,:5 s tim$ x is obvi\s t ! %$ w be consid]ably or altoge!r op5 :5 ! re$ is 9 contact ) ! clo?4 ,by s9k+ ! c5tres ( ! healds bel[ a l9e drawn f ! temple to ! back re/1 ! upp] portion ( ! %$ is always slack1 & if ! pick is beat5 up 9 a cross$ %$1 ! loose ends ( ! w>p are spread betwe5 ! taut ones4 ,9 ,fig4 #fc ! /raight l9e ,,ab is drawn f ! front c>ri] ,a to ! back c>ri] ,b4 ,! c5tres ( ! healds :5 level are on ! l9e ,,acb1 ! po9t ,c be+ a little way bel[ ! l9e ,,ab4 ,:5 "o /ave is lift$ a c]ta9 di/ance & ! o!r goes d[n ! same di/ance1 x is obvi\s t ! upp] portion ( ! w>p w be slack] ?an ! l[] portion1 because ! l9e ,,adefb is %ort] ?an ,,adgfb1 & :5 ! re$ beats up ) ! w>p 9 ?is position ! slack ends are spread betwe5 ! taut ones1 ?us giv+ a good cov] to ! clo? & prev5t+ ! re$ m>ks f %[+4 ,ea* set ( ends alt]nately becomes slack4 ,ano!r advantage ( beat+ up :5 ! %$ is cross$ or p>tly op5 = ! succe$+ pick is t ! pick is held m firmly 9 position ?an :5 ! %$ is n cross$1 & !re=e ! picks c be got 9 bett]4 ,9 twill$ clo?s ! boldness ( ! twill is some:at affect$ by ! w>p be+ spread1 & ^! clo?s are (t5 pref]r$ :5 made )\t ! healds hav+ be5 sunk4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fd4 ,if ! dwell on ! tappet is equal to "o-?ird ( a pick1 z 9 ,fig4 #fd1 ! l9e ,d w m>k ! po9t ( ! tappet :5 ! crank is at ! top c5tre4 ,:5 ! crank has made "o qu>t] ( a revolution & is at ! front c5tre ) ! re$ 9 contact ) ! clo?1 ! po9t ,e w be act+ on ! treadle b[l4 ,x w be se5 t "h ! %$ is almo/ fully op54 ,:5 ! crank is at ! bottom c5tre ! po9t ,g w be act+ on ! b[l1 & ! %uttle %\ld j be ent]+ ! %$4 ,:5 ! po9t ,h ( ! tappet is act+ on ! b[l ! %$ w be comm5c+ to close1 & ! %uttle mu/ be j leav+ ! %$4 ,:5 ! po9t ,i is act+ on ! b[l ! crank w be at ! back c5tre1 & :5 ! crank rea*es ! top c5tre ! healds w be aga9 level4 ,if ! dwell on ! tappet is m ?an "o-?ird pick1 & at ! comm5cem5t ! crank is set on ! top c5tre ) ! healds level1 ! %$ w keep op5 long] = ! %uttle to pass ?r\gh1 & w\ld be m op5 :5 ! crank rea*$ ! front c5tre4 ,x w be obvi\s t = a wide loom a long] dwell is requir$ ?an = a n>r[ loom4 ,by hav+ ! %$ fully op5 be=e ! %uttle ent]s ! %$1 ! w>p is spread & a good cov] put on ! clo?1 b all ?is dwell is tak5 (f ! "t :i* w\ld o!rwise be all[$ = op5+ & clos+ ! %$1 & !re=e means extra /ra9 on ! w>p4 ,if x is n necess>y to spread ! w>p1 ! %$ ne$ n be fully op5 until ! %uttle is ent]+ ! %$4 ,9 ?is case ! greate/ possible am\nt ( "t is all[$ = op5+ & clos+ ! %$1 ?us putt+ z little /ra9 z possible on ! w>p4 ,spe$ ( ,tappets4 ,z previ\sly /at$1 ! bottom %aft 9 ! loom1 be+ ! "o us$ = pick+1 revolves at "o-half ! spe$ ( ! crank-%aft1 & !re=e pla9 clo? tappets may be fa/5$ on ! bottom %aft4 ,tappets ( m ?an two picks to ! r\nd are usually fix$ on a c\nt]-%aft1 ,s 7,fig4 #fe71 9 looms ) inside tappets4 ,sometimes ! :eel ,e is ge>$ directly into ! :eel ,c on ! bottom %aft1 b usually a c>ri]-:eel1 ,d1 is us$ to convey ! motion f ! bottom %aft4 ,! numb] ( tee? 9 ! c>ri] :eel has no effect on ! spe$ ( ! tappets1 z x is us$ simply to fill up ! space betwe5 ! bottom & c\nt]-%afts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fe4 ,if ! :eel on ! crank-%aft ,a conta9s #de tee?1 & ! :eel ,b #ij tee?1 ,c #dj tee?1 & ,e #fj tee?1 ! tappet-%aft ,s w be mak+ "o revolution = ?ree revolutions ( ! crank-%aft2 !re=e ^! :eels w d = ?ree-end twill tappets4 ,?is may be prov$ by multiply+ ! driv]s toge!r & ! driv5s toge!r1 & divid+ "o by ! o!r1 ?us-- 7#ij #fj7 --------- #c 7#de #dj7 ,x is usual to place two or ?ree :eels on ! bottom %aft ( ! loom1 s t any "o ( !m may be ge>$ into ! c>ri] :eel ,d1 ea* giv+ ! requir$ spe$ = diff]5t tappets4 ,if a #dj :eel1 a #cj :eel1 & a #bd :eel are plac$ on ! bottom %aft 9 su* a mann] t !y c be mov$ along ! %aft & any "o ( !m be ge>$ into ! c>ri] :eel1 any #c1 #d1 or #e pick tappets c be driv5 ) ^! :eels4 ,we h se5 t a #dj :eel at ,c gives ?ree picks to ! r\nd4 ,suppose ! #cj :eel at ,c is ge>$ into ! c>ri] :eel1 we get-- 7driv5s #ij #fj7 ----------------- #d1 7driv]s #de #cj7 or ! relative spe$ ( ! tappets & crank-%aft are z #a3d2 !re=e ^! :eels may be us$ = any tappets ) f\r picks to ! r\nd4 ,if ! #bd :eel is at ,c1 we get3 driv5s #ij #fj ------- #e1 driv]s #de #bd & ?us we get ! prop] rate ( spe$ = tappets five pick to ! r\nd4 ,"s loom mak]s use ! :eel ,e z a *ange :eel4 ,) a #bd :eel ,c & a #cf :eel ,e we get ?ree picks to ! r\nd1 ?us-- driv5s #ij #cf ------- #c driv]s #de #bd ,) a #bd :eel ,c1 a #dh :eel ,e gives #d picks1 ,) a #bd :eel ,c1 a #fj :eel ,e gives #e picks1 ,) a #bd :eel ,c1 a #gb :eel ,e gives #f picks4 ,example4--,f9d ! numb] ( tee? = ! :eel ,c on ! bottom %aft to drive tappets sev5 picks to ! r\nd1 :eel on tappets #fc tee?4 #ij #fc ------- #ah :eel4 ,ans4 #de #g ,woodcr(t's tappets1 z a rule1 are driv5 directly f ! crank-%aft4 ,z ^! tappets are usually ( a l>ge circumf]5ce1 a l>ge :eel on !m is ( no disadvantage1 al?\gh sometimes int]m$iate :eels are us$4 ,if ! tappets are twelve to ! r\nd1 & ! :eel on ! tappets conta9s #aib tee?1 a driv+ :eel ( #af tee? w be requir$ on ! crank-%aft4 #aib --- #ab picks to ! r\nd #af ,= driv+ outside tappets1 z 9 ,fig4 #ci1 a driv+ :eel on ! crank-%aft & two int]m$iate :eels are g5]ally us$4 ,! tappets are plac$ on ! bottom %aft outside ! loom1 b !y are loose ^u ! %aft1 & c1 ( c\rse1 be made to revolve at a diff]5t spe$ to ! %aft1 ei!r 9 ! same or 9 ! opposite direction4 ,?is sy/em ( driv+ ! tappets is %[n at ,fig4 #ff4 ,! :eel ,a1 on ! crank-%aft1 drives ! :eel ,b1 on an int]m$iate /ud2 ! :eel ,c1 on ! same c5tre1 drives ! tappet :eel ,d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ff4 ,to f9d ! :eel on ! crank-%aft1 or ! fir/ driv]1 ! o!r :eels be+ z foll[s3 fir/ driv5 :eel1 ,b1 #cf tee?2 second driv]1 ,c1 #ab tee?2 tappet :eel1 ,d1 #abj tee?4 ,multiply ! two driv5 :eels toge!r1 & divide by ! giv5 driv] multipli$ by ! picks to ! r\nd1 ?us-- #cf #abj -------- #dj fir/ driv]1 ,a4 #ab #i ,to f9d ! second driv] = eight picks1 ! o!r :eels be+3 fir/ driv]1 ,a1 #bj2 fir/ driv51 ,b1 #dj2 second driv51 ,d1 #fj4 ,! giv5 driv] multipli$ by ! picks to ! r\nd1 #bj #h #afj2 ! driv5s multipli$ toge!r1 #dj #fj #bdjj2 #bdjj #afj #ae :eel requir$4 ,to f9d ei!r ( ! driv5 :eels1 multiply ! two driv]s & ! picks toge!r1 & divide by ! driv5 giv5 :eel1 ?us-- ,example4--,f9d ! :eel = ! tappets1 ,d1 = #aj picks to ! r\nd1 ! o!r :eels be+3 fir/ driv]1 #af tee?2 fir/ driv51 #cb tee?2 second driv]1 #bj tee?4 #af #bj #aj ------------ #ajj :eel requir$ #cb ,to f9d bo? int]m$iate :eels1 multiply ! giv5 driv] by ! picks to ! r\nd1 & z ! product is to ! tee? 9 ! tappet :eel1 s is ! requir$ driv5 to ! requir$ driv]4 ,example4--,f9d ! two int]m$iates = #aj-pick tappets1 if ! :eel on ! crank-%aft has #ah tee?1 & ! :eel on ! tappets #abj tee?4 ,! #ah #aj #ahj1 & !re=e ! two requir$ :eels mu/ be 9 ! proportion ( #ahj to #abj1 ! =m] be+ ! driv5 :eel4 ,?us a #cf driv5 & a #bd driv] w give ! requir$ spe$ to ! tappets4 ,t ?is is correct may be se5 f ! foll[+3-- #ah #bd -------- #aj picks #cf #abj ,t ! requir$ :eels mu/ be 9 ?is proportion w be app>5t f ! fact t if ! :eel ,b has t5 times ! numb] ( tee? 9 ,a1 !n ,b is revolv+ at ! spe$ at :i* ! tappets are to move2 !re=e if ! :eel ,c has ! same numb] ( tee? t ,d has1 ! spe$ ( ! tappets w rema9 ! same4 ,,fa/-,,& ,,loose-,,re$ ,,looms4 ,"o ( ! mo/ important motions 9 ! p[] loom is t by :i* ! loom is /opp$ automatically :5 ! %uttle is caught 9 ! %$ or = "s reason does n ent] ! %uttle-box4 ,a motion ( ?is k9d has always be5 consid]$ necess>y s9ce ! introduction ( ! p[] loom4 ,if ! %uttle be caught 9 ! %$ z ! re$ is beat+ up1 x is obvi\s t great damage to ! w>p mu/ result unless ! loom is br\ght to a sudd5 /op or ! re$ ?r[n out4 ,! olde/ =m ( protector is ! 8/op rod40 ,9 ?is ! re$ is fa/1 & if ! %uttle is caught 9 ! %$ or flies out1 ! loom is br\ght to a sudd5 /op be=e beat+ up4 ,fig4 #fg w illu/rate ! pr9ciple ( ?is motion4 ,if ! %uttle ent]s ! box safely x presses back ! swell ,s1 :i* projects inside ! box & is held !re by a spr+4 ,z ! swell is press$ back x raises ! lev] ,b above ! frog ,f z ! slay beats up4 ,if ! %uttle = any reason does n ent] ! box1 ! swell is n press$ back1 & z ! slay moves =w>d 9 beat+ up1 ! lev] ,b cat*es ! frog ,f1 :i* is mov$ a little & applies ! brake ,g1 & also knocks (f ! loom h&le ,h1 :i* removes ! belt on to ! loose pulley4 ,be=e ! application ( ! brake to ?is motion ! frog 0 fix$ to ! framework ( ! loom1 & x w easily be und]/ood t ! concussion caus$ _m breakages4 ,a /op rod protector 0 pat5t$ 9 #agia1 b ! brake 0 n appli$ until #ahdj or !reab\ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fg4 ,! loose re$ is a bett] way ( prev5t+ damage to ! w>p by ! %uttle be+ caught4 ,if ! %uttle is caught 9 ! %$ x ?r[s out ! re$ & /ops ! loom4 ,its action w be und]/ood f ,fig4 #fh4 ,a rod1 ,c1 runs und]nea? ! %uttle-race at ! back ( ! slay1 & ! f+] ,b is fa/5$ to x4 ,! re$ is held 9 position by a bo>d1 ,a1 :i* is also connect$ to ! rod ,c1 z %[n 9 ! diagram4 ,if ! %uttle is caught 9 ! %$1 x presses back ! re$ & ! bo>d ,a1 & lifts ! f+] ,b to ! upp] side ( ! frog ,f1 & z ! slay moves =w>d x ?r[s ! bo>d ,a fur!r back & ! re$ out at ! bottom1 & ! lev] ,h is br\ght into contact ) ! loom h&le1 & ! loom is /opp$4 ,if ! %uttle passes safely ?r\gh ! %$1 ! re$ is n press$ back1 & ! f+] ,f comes "u ! frog z ! slay gets to ! front ( its /roke1 & holds ! re$ comp>atively fa/4 ,! disadvantage ( ! loose re$ is t ! re$ is n suffici5tly firm to put a l>ge am\nt ( weft into ! clo?1 b improvem5t is be+ made 9 ?is respect1 & loose-re$ looms are to-day made = weav+ fabrics = :i* x 0 =m]ly necess>y to h fa/ re$s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fh4 ,! inv5tion ( ! loose re$ is g5]ally attribut$ to ,mr4 ,james ,bull\gh4 ,x 0 inv5t$ ab\t #ahdb4 ,,! ,,weft ,,=k ,,/op ,,motion4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fi4 ,"o ( ! mo/ useful adjuncts to ! p[]-loom is ! motion = /opp+ ! loom :5 ! weft breaks or runs out4 ,fig4 #fi w expla9 ! pr9ciple ( ?is useful contrivance4 ,! grid ,a is plac$ at ! side ( ! re$ betwe5 ! re$ & ! %uttle-box1 & ! =k is s plac$ t z ! grid moves =w>d ! prongs ( ! =k pass ?r\gh x4 ,:5 ! weft comes betwe5 ! =k & ! grid x raises ! end ( ! =k ,e1 out ( ! way ( ! hamm] ,h1 :i* is mov$ =w>d e two picks by a cam or lift]1 ,d1 on ! bottom %aft ( ! loom4 ,if ! weft breaks or runs out ! =k w ( c\rse pass ?r\gh ! grid1 & x is s balanc$ t ! hook ,e w be caught by ! hamm] & ! loom h&le knock$ (f4 ,! inv5tion ( ! ,weft ,=k ,/opp+ ,motion is claim$ by sev]al p]sons1 b x 0 p]fect$ ab\t ! ye> #ahdb1 :5 ! brake 0 appli$ to x4 ,! action ( ?is brake is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #gj4 ,:5 ! h&le is pu%$ sideways 9 />t+ ! loom x lifts ! rod ,r & ! lev] ,l1 & ?us takes ! brake (f4 ,:5 ! h&le is knock$ (f by ! weft =k be+ caught1 ! lev] ,l drops & ! brake is appli$4 ,! brake p[] c be regulat$ by alt]+ ! position ( ! weight on ! lev]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gj4 ,9 looms ) *ange boxes at bo? sides ! weft =k is (t5 plac$ 9 ! middle ( ! loom4 ,x is obvi\s t :5 sev]al %uttles are us$ !re w always be "s weft ?reads opposite ! grid 9 ! ord9>y weft =k motion1 & ?is r5d]s x inop]ative 9 ?is class ( looms4 ,x is !re=e necess>y to h a =k to feel = ea* pick sep>ately4 ,,tak+-,,up ,,or ,,coil+ ,,motions4 ,!re are two di/9ct classes ( tak+-up motions--! positive1 & ! negative or drag motion4 ,9 ! =m] ! clo? is tak5 up a small b regul> di/ance ea* pick1 & ! numb] ( picks p] in* c be regulat$ to a fraction4 ,fig4 #ga is ! common =m ( positive take-up motion4 ,a rat*et :eel or 8rack :eel10 ,a1 is mov$ =w>d "o too? e pick by a click or cat*1 ,m1 op]at$ by a projection1 ,g1 on ! slay sword4 ,z ! slay moves =w>d ! rack :eel is mov$ "o too?1 & ! hold+ cat* or det5t ,n prev5ts x f go+ back4 ,!re are five :eels 9 ! tra91 & ! names usually giv5 to !m are z foll[s3 ,a1 rack :eel2 ,b1 *ange :eel2 ,c1 /ud :eel2 ,d1 /ud p9ion2 ,e1 beam :eel4 ,! em]y tak+-up roll] is m>k$ ,f4 ,! clo?1 z x is wov51 is drawn =w>d by ! em]y roll] & is w\nd ^u ! clo? roll]1 :i* is press$ aga9/ ! em]y roll] by weight$ lev]s1 & is turn$ by friction4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ga4 ,! spe$ at :i* ! em]y beam roll] is turn$ regulates ! numb] ( picks p] in*1 & z *anges are con/antly requir$ 9 mo/ weav+ mills1 ! :eel ,b is usually tak5 z a *ange :eel4 ,z ?is :eel is a driv]1 a small] :eel w make ! em]y roll] move sl[]1 & !re=e m picks w be put 9 ! clo?1 & a l>g] :eel w drive ! em]y roll] quick]1 & z a consequ5ce a small] numb] ( picks w be put 94 ,if ! rack :eel has #ej tee?1 ! /ud :eel #abj tee?1 ! /ud p9ion #ae tee?1 & ! beam-roll] :eel #ge tee?1 ! beam roll] be+ #ae in*es 9 circumf]5ce1 & if ! *ange :eel us$ has #be tee?1 ! numb] ( picks p] qu>t]-in* w be #bj4 ,?is may be prov$ by multiply+ ! driv]s toge!r & by ! circumf]5ce ( ! em]y beam roll] 9 qu>t]-in*es = a divisor1 & multiply+ ! driv5s toge!r = a divid5d3 ! quoti5t w be ! numb] ( picks p] qu>t]-in*4 ,,driv]s4 #be #ae --- #abe #be --- #cge #fj qu>t]-in*es ----- 9 beam #bbejj ,,driv54 #ej #abj ---- #fjjj #ge ------ #bbejj7dejjjj7bj picks p] #dejjj qu>t]-in* ------ #j ,:5 ! clo? is tak5 out ( ! loom1 r m ?an ?is numb] ( picks w be c\nt$1 z !re is n ! same t5sion z :5 ! clo? is be+ wov54 ,x is usual to all[ ab\t #a p] c5t4 = ?is %r9kage4 ,= ! purpose ( easy calculation ! divid5d ( ! loom is obta9$2 t is1 ! *ange :eel requir$ to give "o pick p] qu>t]-in*4 ,by us+ ?is z a divid5d & divid+ by ! numb] ( picks requir$ 9 a qu>t]-in*1 ! quoti5t w be ! *ange :eel requir$2 &1 vice v]s1 by divid+ by ! *ange :eel1 ! numb] ( picks giv5 by t :eel c be obta9$4 ,to f9d ! divid5d ( a loom-- ,multiply ! rack1 /ud1 & beam :eel toge!r = a divid5d1 & ! /ud p9ion & ! numb] ( qu>t]-in*es 9 a circumf]5ce ( ! em]y beam = a divisor1 & ! quoti5t w be ! ma!matical divid5d4 ,add #a p] c5t4 to ?is = ! practical divid5d4 ,) ! :eels giv5 9 ,fig4 #ga ! divid5d w be z foll[s3-- #ae /ud p9ion #fj qu>t]-in*es 9 circumf]5ce ( beam --- #ijj #ej rack :eel #abj /ud :eel ---- #fjjj #ge beam :eel ---- #ijj7dejjjj7ejj ma!matical divid5d #dejj ------ #jj #ejj #g #a p] c5t4 = %r9kage --- #ejg practical divid5d4 ,hav+ ! divid5d1 x is only necess>y to divide by ! picks to obta9 ! *ange :eel requir$1 or to divide by ! tee? 9 ! *ange :eel to obta9 ! picks :i* x w give1 ?us-- #ejg #ejg picks --- #ci *ange :eel *ange :eel --- #be picks4 #ac #bj ,! foll[+ are ! :eels us$ by v>i\s loom mak]s3 ---------------------------------------- ------- ,circumf]5ce ,rack ,/ud ,/ud ,beam ( beam 9 ,divid5d4 :eel4:eel4p9ion4:eel4 in*es4 ---------------------------------------- ------- #ej #abj #ae #ge #ae #ejg #fj #abj #ae #ge #ae #fji #ej #adf #ad #ij #ae #gid #ej #ajj #ab #ge #ae #ebh #fj #ajj #ab #ge #ae #fcd ---------------------------------------- ------- ,example4--,f9d ! divid5d ( a loom ) a rack :eel #fj tee?1 /ud :eel #ajj tee?1 /ud p9ion #ab tee?1 beam :eel #ge tee?1 beam #ae in*es circumf]5ce4 rack /ud beam :eel #fj #ajj #ge ------------------ #fbe ma!matical divid5d #ab #fj #i #a p] c5t4 /ud qu>t]-in*es --- p9ion 9 beam #fcd practical divid5d4 ,x is n possible by *ang+ "o :eel only to obta9 any numb] ( picks or fraction ( a pick1 z w be se5 f ! foll[+ examples3-- #ejg picks --- #abfg #dj #ejg picks --- #abab #da #ejg picks --- #abjg #db ,= ! l[] numb] ( picks ! motion does fairly well1 b = ! high] numb]s ( picks ! *anges _c be made ) suffici5t exactitude by *ang+ a s+le :eel4 ,ev5 9 ! l[] picks x is n[ requir$ to make ! smalle/ fractional *anges4 ,an improv$ arrangem5t ( :eels is n[ l>gely adopt$4 ,?is is ,pickles' motion4 ,fig4 #gb %[s ! tra9 ( :eels4 ,! *ange :eel ,b is 9 ?is case a driv5 :eel1 & !re=e if a l>g] :eel is us$ x w give a l>g] numb] ( picks 9 ! clo?1 & if a small] :eel is us$ x w give a small] numb] ( picks2 s t if ! :eels are s proportion$ t ! *ange :eel ,b has ! same numb] ( tee? t !re are picks p] qu>t]-in*1 x w always rema9 s1 :atev] size ! :eel is4 ,if a #bj driv5 :eel gives #bj picks1 a #cj w give #cj picks1 & s on4 ,! :eel ,a is also *ang$1 & ?is is usually call$ ! 8/&>d0 :eel4 ,?is is a driv] :eel1 & !re=e a small] :eel gives m picks1 & vice v]s4 ,! :eels are s proportion$ t if ,a1 ! /&>d :eel1 has n9e tee?1 ea* too? 9 ,b1 ! *ange :eel1 repres5ts "o pick1 & !re=e1 ?is :eel be+ a driv51 ! numb] ( tee? 9 x w also repres5t ! numb] ( picks p] qu>t]-in*4 ,if an #ah /&>d :eel is us$1 x is obvi\s t ! em]y beam w be driv5 twice z fa/1 !re=e ea* too? 9 ! *ange :eel ,b w !n repres5t half a pick p] qu>t]-in*4 ,) a #bg /&>d ea* too? 9 ! *ange :eel ,b w repres5t "o-?ird ( a pick4 ,) a #cf /&>d ea* too? 9 ,b w repres5t a qu>t] ( a pick p] in*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gb4 ,! :eels mo/ly us$ are ^? 9 ! diagram1 & suppos+ we h a #cf /&>d & a #de *ange :eel1 & tak+ ! em]y beam z #aeje in*es 9 circumf]5ce1 we get-- ,b #bd #de #hi #ij -------------------- #aajhh #cf #bd #ae #fjbj ,a #aff #a p] c5t4 = %r9kage ------ #aabed picks p] qu>t]-in*4 ,?us ) a #cf /&>d a #de *ange :eel1 ,b1 gives #aa picks p] qu>t]-in*1 or ea* too? 9 ! *ange :eel gives a qu>t] ( a pick p] qu>t]-in*4 ,by *ang+ ^! two :eels any fraction ( a pick c be obta9$4 ,?us if #ac picks p] qu>t]-in* are requir$1 ! :eels us$ w\ld be an #ah /&>d & a #bg *ange :eel4 ,= #ac picks a #bg /&>d & a #da *ange :eel w\ld be us$1 & s on4 ,! foll[+ examples w fully illu/rate ! pr9ciple ( ?is motion3-- --------------------------- ,picks p] ,/&>d,*ange qu>t]-in*4 :eel4 :eel4 --------------------------- #bj #i #bj #ae #ah #ca #ad #bg #dc #ad #bg #dd #ac #cf #ec #ac #cf #ee #ab #de #fa --------------------------- ,x is n always cu/om>y to *ange ! :eels 9 ! above mann]1 z a diff]5t value is (t5 giv5 to ea* too? 9 ! *ange :eel by alt]+ ! /&>d :eel1 o!rwise ?an by multiples ( n9e4 ,any numb] may be made ! basis ( a tra9 ( :eels ( ?is k9d2 !re is no reason :y x %\ld be n9e m ?an any o!r numb]1 & 9 adapt+ looms f ! ord9>y five-:eel motion to ?is pr9ciple1 x is n necess>y to get all new :eels1 z s[ ( ! old ones may be made to =m "p ( ! tra94 ,!re are sev]al k9ds ( negative or drag take-up motions4 ,"o ( ! old] =ms is t giv5 9 ,fig4 #gc4 ,a lev]1 ,,ab1 c5tr$ at ,c is weight$ on ! arm ,b4 ,a small cam1 ,d1 on ! crank-%aft presses d[n ,a e pick & lifts ! cat* ,e1 :i* op]ates ! rat*et :eel ,f4 ,z ! weights drop !y act z a drag ^u ! rat*et :eel4 ,a small p9ion on ! same c5tre z ! rat*et :eel drives ! :eel ,g on ! clo? beam4 ,! clo? 9 a negative motion is w\nd directly on to ! clo? beam1 & ?us !re is no risk ( damag+ ! f9] fabrics1 z is ! case :5 an em]y beam is us$1 z 9 a positive motion4 ,! numb] ( picks put 9 ! clo? is regulat$ by ! weights on ! lev] ,b2 ! great] ! weight ! less ! numb] ( picks1 & vice v]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gc4 ,! action ( a negative motion is z foll[s3--,z ! slay beats up1 ! clo? betwe5 ! clo? beam & ! re$ is slack5$ a little1 & ! weights on ! lev] at t mom5t act z a drag ^u ! rat*et :eel ,f4 ,! hold+ cat* is usually a d\ble "o1 & w hold ! rat*et :eel :5 tak5 =w>d ! space ( half a too?4 ,by increas+ ! drag ^u ! rat*et :eel1 a slight] bl[ f ! slay w enable ! weights to act1 & ?us less weft is put into ! clo?4 ,if a loom is regulat$ s z to put a c]ta9 numb] ( picks p] in* into ! clo? ( a giv5 c\nt ( weft1 & weft ( a f9] c\nt is !n us$1 x is obvi\s t ! numb] ( picks p] in* w\ld be increas$4 ,if ! weft v>ies 9 ?ickness ! negative motion comp5sates = ?is some:at1 by putt+ m picks 9 :]e x is ?9n]1 & ?us a m ev5 ?ickness ( clo? is produc$ ?an :]e a positive motion is us$4 ,z ! clo? is w\nd on ! beam ! circumf]5ce ( ! latt] gradually increases1 & consequ5tly !re w\ld be a gradual alt]ation 9 ! am\nt ( weft put into ! clo?1 ow+ to ! diff]5ce 9 lev]age4 ,x is necess>y1 !re=e1 to c\nt ! clo? & adju/ ! weights at int]vals 9 ord] to keep ! numb] ( picks regul>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ge4 ,ano!r k9d ( negative take-up motion is %[n at ,figs4 #gd & #ge4 ,?is is n[ m g5]ally us$ ?an ! o!r k9d4 ,! clo? beam ,a is driv5 by a screw1 ,s4 ,! rat*et :eel ,b is fa/5$ to ! screw-%aft1 & ! me?od ( op]at+ ! rat*et :eel w be se5 f ,fig4 #ge1 :i* is ano!r view ( ! me*anism4 ,a %ort lev]1 ,e1 is atta*$ to ! rock+ %aft ,k1 & z ! slay moves backw>ds f ! clo? ! weights ,w are lift$ a little1 & :5 ! slay moves =w>d1 ! weights1 act+ ?r\gh ! cat* ,m1 w take ! rat*et :eel =w>d a too?1 or half a too?1 z ! case may be4 ,!re is usually a d\ble-hold+ cat* ,n1 :i* w hold ! :eel if tak5 =w>d half a too?4 ,:5 ! rat*et :eel has made "o revolution1 ! :eel on ! clo? beam w only h be5 mov$ "o too? by ! screw1 s t ! requir$ sl[ movem5t ( ! clo? beam is obta9$ by v simple means4 ,!re is a h& :eel1 ,p1 = unw9d+ ! clo? readily4 ,! negative motion is us$ pr9cipally 9 weav+ ! heavi] classes ( cotton fabrics & ^? 9 :i* !re is a l>ge numb] ( picks p] in*1 su* z velvets1 & simil> fabrics4 ,its advantages are t ! clo? is w\nd directly on to ! clo? beam1 & _c !re=e be injur$ by an em]y beam1 & t x makes ! clo? ( a m ev5 ?ickness1 z x comp5sates = any v>iation 9 ! ?ickness ( ! weft2 & its disadvantages z comp>$ ) a positive motion are t x requires frequ5tly adju/+ 7less frequ5t1 ( c\rse1 :5 a v l>ge numb] ( picks are put 91 z 9 velvets71 & t x does n put a p]fectly regul> numb] ( picks 9 ! clo?1 z a positive motion does4 ,?is latt] is ! *ief objection to x1 z ev5 9 ! light] makes ( common velvets a positive motion is pref]r$ on acc\nt ( its giv+ a m ev5ly pick$ clo?4 ,9 silk looms1 :]e x is absolutely necess>y to disp5se ) an em]y beam1 a v l>ge clo? beam is us$1 & ! clo? is w\nd directly on to ! clo? beam al?\gh ! take-up is positive4 ,! clo? beam is sometimes ov] a y>d 9 circumf]5ce1 s t x w hold a fair l5g? ( clo? )\t mak+ mu* diff]5ce 9 ! numb] ( picks4 ,! clo? is tak5 (f ! beam frequ5tly1 or ! gradual *ange 9 ! ?ickness ( ! clo? beam w\ld cause ! piece to get too ?94 ,?is w\ld1 ( c\rse1 n d = cotton goods4 ,ano!r ready me?od ( obta9+ any requir$ pick 9 a positive motion is us$ 9 ! ,ea/ ,lanca%ire di/ricts4 ,sev5 :eels are us$1 z 9 ,pickles' arrangem5t1 b ! ord9>y :eels ( a #ejg divid5d 7or o!r divid5d7 are us$1 & 9 addition ! two :eels ,b & ,c1 z 9 ,pickles' 7,fig4 #gb71 are introduc$4 ,! :eel ,b1 ! driv5 :eel1 is call$ ! /&>d 9 ?is arrangem5t2 & suppose x is requir$ to put #ae picks p] qu>t]-in* 9 ! clo? ) ! rack :eel #ej tee?1 /ud :eel #abj1 /ud p9ion #ae1 beam :eel #ge1 beam #ae in*es circumf]5ce4 ,! /&>d us$ is a #bd--?is1 x mu/ be borne 9 m9d1 is 9 ?is case a driv5 :eel4 ,!n by multiply+ ! divid5d ( ! five-:eel motion1 viz4 #ejge1 by #bd1 ! tee? 9 ! /&>d1 & divid+ by ! picks p] qu>t]-in* requir$1 we get ! product ( ! two driv]s1 ,a & ,c1 ?us-- #ejge #bd /&>d ,b --------------------- #hab #ae picks ,?is #hab1 !n1 is ! product ( ! two driv]s1 & any two conv5i5t :eels :i*1 multipli$ toge!r1 give ?is numb] c be us$--?us #hab_/bh #bi4 ,!re=e ! two driv]s may h #bh & #bi tee? respectively4 ,! two :eels are f\nd by exp]im5t4 ,if ! divid5d ( ! five :eels is #fji a #bj /&>d :eel is us$1 & ! same driv]s z 9 ! prec$+ case w d4 ,if x is requir$ to *ange only "o :eel1 & to h ! arrangem5t su* z to give an exact numb] ( picks1 or half-picks1 or qu>t]-picks1 9 ! qu>t]-in* ( clo?1 by tak+ ! two driv]s ,a & ,c ( su* numb]s t _! product am\nts to #ejg1 ! numb] ( tee? 9 ! driv5 :eel ,b w always equal ! numb] ( picks p] qu>t]-in* exactly4 ,?us #ejg_/ac #ci4 ,!re=e if ! driv]s ,a & ,c h respectively #ac & #ci tee?1 e too? 9 ! driv5 :eel ,b w repres5t "o pick p] qu>t]-in*4 ,suppose half-picks are requir$ exactly1 ! me?od ( obta9+ ! :eels is z foll[s3--,multiply ! #ejge by #b1 :i* equals #ajae1 !n f9d two conv5i5t :eels :i*1 multipli$ toge!r1 produce ?is numb]2 #ce #bi #ajae1 & ! two driv]s ,a & ,c may be #ce & #bi4 ,?is w cause e too? 9 ! driv5 :eel ,b to repres5t half a pick exactly4 ,?us ) a #ce :eel ,a1 & a #bi :eel ,c1 a #ca :eel ,b w give #ae picks p] qu>t]-in*1 ! o!r :eels be+ ! same z 9 an ord9>y #ejg divid5d motion4 ,! foll[+ examples w prove ?is3-- #ej rack #ca ,b #abj /ud #ge beam :eel ---------------------------------------- --- #aebg #ce ,a #bi ,c #ae p9ion #fj qu>t]-in*es & #aebg #jbc #a p] c5t4 %r9kage ----- #aeej picks4 ,:5 qu>t]-picks are requir$ exactly1 by *ang+ "o :eel only--multiply #ejge by #d1 & ! product ( ! two driv]s ,a & ,c mu/ equal ?is4 ,!n e too? 9 ! driv5 :eel ,b w repres5t a qu>t]-pick p] qu>t]-in*4 ,!re are _m me?ods ( lett+ (f ! w>p positively1 b none are likely to succe$ 9 displac+ ! old] & q satisfactory me?od ( lev]s1 ropes1 & weights4 ,! v fact ( mak+ ! let-(f positive1 causes too great a rigidity 9 ! hold ( ! w>p1 :i* is detrim5tal to ! y>n4 ,! frictional let-(f is n likely to be replac$ 9 cotton goods weav+ unless x be 9 "s ( ! heavi] k9ds ( fabrics4 ,:]e x is a "q ( putt+ 9 z mu* weft z possible1 ! positive let-(f has an advantage4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,drop-,,box ,,looms ,:]e m ?an "o k9d or col\r ( weft is us$ 9 a fabric1 x is1 ( c\rse1 necess>y to *ange ! %uttles automatically4 ,sometimes two or m diff]5t c\nts ( weft ( ! same col\r are us$1 & sometimes diff]5t col\rs ( weft4 ,*ecks ( all k9ds1 extra weft spots1 & o!rs are ! *ief classes ( fabrics :i* require *ange boxes4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gf4 ,! olde/ & commone/ =m is ! ,diggle's *a9 motion illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #gf4 ,! numb] ( boxes us$ 9 ?is motion is ei!r #b1 #c1 or #d4 ,x w\ld be possible to use m1 b x is n usually done ) ?is arrangem5t = op]at+ !m4 ,a lev]1 ,,ac1 is c5tr$ at ,c 7,fig4 #gf71 & ! friction b[l ,b on ?is lev] is mov$ upw>ds by a *a91 compos$ ( l9ks fa/5$ toge!r on p9s1 :i* "w r\nd a b>rel1 ,d4 ,^! l9ks are ( diff]5t sizes1 accord+ to ! numb] ( boxes us$4 ,! smalle/ l9k leaves ! top box 9 a l9e ) ! %uttle-race1 & ! o!r l9ks are ( su* a size z to raise ei!r ! second1 ?ird1 or f\r? boxes 7assum+ t !re are f\r7 into ?is position4 ,! g5]al me?od is to raise ! boxes "o at a "t1 & drop !m all toge!r1 b ?is is n compulsory4 ,x w be se5 t ! motion ( ! boxes is n positive d[nw>ds--t is1 ! boxes drop by _! own weight1 & are n me*anically =c$ d[n1 z 9 ,wright ,%aw's or ,:itesmi?'s motions--& x w be well und]/ood t !re w ?us be a limit to ! spe$ at :i* ! loom c be run4 ,! me?od ( turn+ ! b>rel ,d :i* c>ries ! *a9 is z foll[s4 ,a :eel1 ,e1 on ! crank-%aft drives a l>g] :eel1 ,f1 above x4 ,on ! face ( ?is :eel1 ,f1 is a rim & two projections1 ,,pp1 or1 x may be1 only "o projection4 ,^! projections or p9s ge> into ! /> :eel ,g1 :i* is fa/5$ to ! b>rel c>ry+ ! *a91 & !re=e :5 ! /> :eel is turn$ "o too?1 or "o-eigh? ( a revolution1 x w move ! *a9 a space ( "o l9k4 ,! :eel ,e on ! crank-%aft (t5 has "o-f\r? ! numb] ( tee? conta9$ 9 ! :eel ,f2 !re=e1 if !re are two p9s or projections1 ,,pp1 9 ! circumf]5ce1 ! /> :eel w be mov$ "o too? e two picks1 & ! boxes may be *ang$ s (t5 by mak+ ! *a9 accord+ly4 ,! lev] ,m1 :i* is c5tr$ at ,r1 has ! boxes atta*$ to "o end1 & ! o!r end may be press$ d[n by ! foot :5 x is requir$ to lift ! boxes = any purpose :5 ! loom is /opp$4 ,suppos+ ! :eel ,e to h #ae tee? & ,f #fj tee?1 if !re are two projections1 ,,pp1 on ! face ( ,f1 ! %uttle may be *ang$ e two picks1 b if !re is only "o projection or p91 !re may be a *ange e f\r1 or a multiple ( f\r picks4 ,! *ief disadvantage ( ?is motion 9 ! =m giv5 at ,fig4 #gf is t ! *a9 becomes v cumb]some if a long patt]n is requir$4 ,to obviate ?is1 ! projections ,,pp are1 9 an improv$ motion1 made s t !y c be )drawn f ge> ) ! /> :eel4 ,?is is effect$ by a clut* motion :i* is subsequ5tly describ$ 9 connection ) ! 8pick-&-pick loom40 ,) ?is improvem5t1 ea* l9k 9 ! *a9 may be made to repres5t any numb] ( picks1 ! numb] be+ regulat$ by a small *a9 ( metal c>ds1 & ?us l>g] patt]ns may be made )\t ! long heavy *a9s :i* are requir$ 9 ! ord9>y 8,diggle40 ,! ,diggle's *a9 pr9ciple1 al?\gh suitable = "s types ( looms1 is n an ideal motion1 z ! d[nw>d movem5t ( ! boxes is negative4 ,! boxes h no?+ to =ce !m d[n b _! own weight & ! weight ( ! lev]s connect$ ) !m1 & ?is necessitates ! loom be+ run at a sl[] spe$ ?an is ! case ) "s ( ! positive drop-box motions4 ,( ?is latt] k9d ,wright ,%aw's motion is "o ( a great v>iety ( diff]5t types1 & has be5 9 use = a long "t4 ,,wright ,,%aw',s ,,drop-,,box4 ,! pr9ciple ( ?is motion w be und]/ood f ! diagram1 ,fig4 #gg4 ,! ess5tial feature ( ?is inv5tion is a =k$ rack1 ,g1 susp5d$ f ! free end ( a treadle lev]1 ,e1 fulcrum$ at ,f1 & c>ry+ a b[l or runn]1 ,d1 ne> ! c5tre4 ,at "o end ( ! second motion or pick+ %aft1 ,a1 ( ! loom1 are two cams1 ,b & ,c1 ei!r ( :i* may be br\ght und]nea? ! treadle b[l at w1 s z to raise ! treadle & =k$ rack once dur+ ea* revolution ( ! pick+ %aft1 correspond+ to two picks4 ,pass+ midway betwe5 ! two prongs1 ,h1 ,h1 ( ! =k is a %ort %aft1 ^u :i* are secur$ two too!d :eels1 ,i & ,j4 ,:eel ,i is s plac$ t ! tee? on ei!r side ( ! rack may be put into engagem5t ) its tee? j be=e ! =k rises1 s z to turn ! :eel 9 ei!r direction2 or ! rack may occupy a neutral position :5 ris+1 9 :i* ev5t ! :eel rema9s /ation>y4 ,9 any case1 ! racks are always cle> ( ! :eel :5 desc5d+4 ,imm$iately 9 front ( :eel ,i is ano!r simil> :eel ,j1 ^: tee? are 9 p]man5t engagem5t ) ^? ( a rack1 ,k 7an ext5sion1 ,l1 ( :i* supports ! %uttle-boxes1 ,m74 ,?us1 if rack ,h is put into ge> ) :eel ,i1 boxes w be depress$ z ! rack rises2 b if rack ,h op]ates1 ! boxes w be rais$4 ,"o box1 or two boxes1 only1 may be ei!r rais$ or dropp$ at "o *ange1 accord+ to :i* rack & :i* cam is put into op]ation4 ,! small] cam moves "o box1 & ! l>g] cam two boxes1 ei!r up or d[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gg4 ,! selection ( racks & cams is made by patt]n c>ds 7deta*$7 :i* pass ov] an octagonal prism1 ,n4 ,! c>ds are pres5t$ sep>ately1 once 9 two picks1 to ?ree select+ ne$les1 #a1 #b1 #c4 ,! two out] ne$les1 #a1 #c1 are atta*$ "o at ea* end ( a d\ble arm secur$ at ! top ( a long v]tical %aft1 ,o1 ! bottom ( :i* communicates ) ! =k$ rack ,g4 ,?us a depression ( boxes is effect$ by a blank "p ( a c>d press+ aga9/ ne$le #a1 & an elevation ( boxes by press+ back ne$le #c4 ,%aft ,o is loosely conta9$ )9 a long tube or sleeve1 ,p1 :i* c>ries a %ort arm1 ,r1 at ! top1 & a =k$ clut*1 ,q1 :i* acts ^u ! boss ( cams1 ,b & ,c4 ,if x is desir$ to move two boxes1 ne$le #b is press$ back1 !reby caus+ an incl9$ piece1 ,s1 secur$ to x1 to act ^u arm ,r s z to slightly turn ! sleeve ,p1 & move ! l>g] cam ,c "u ! treadle b[l at a "t :5 ! %ort side ( ! cam is upp]mo/1 z indicat$ 9 ! diagram1 ,fig4 #gg4 ,at "o po9t1 ! l>g] & out] cam is slightly l[] ?an ! small] "o1 & c be readily mov$ "u ! b[l4 ,! v>i\s *anges :i* c be made by ?is motion may be se5 by ref]r+ to ! c>ds at ,fig4 #gg4 ,:5 !re is a blank opposite ! fir/ ne$le only1 ! rack ,h is pu%$ to ! left & ! boxes are mov$ 8d[n "o40 ,:5 !re is a blank opposite ! ?ird ne$le only1 rack ,h is mov$ to ! "r & ! boxes are =c$ 8up "o40 ,:5 !re are blanks opposite ! fir/ & second ne$les1 !y are pu%$ backw>d1 ?us mov+ rack ,h to ! left1 & also =c+ ! l>g] cam "u ! treadle b[l1 9 :i* case ! boxes w be mov$ 8d[n two40 ,:5 !re are blanks opposite ! second & ?ird ne$les1 !y are pu%$ backw>d1 & ! boxes are 8rais$ two40 ,:5 !re are ?ree holes 9 ! c>d1 ! racks1 :5 lift$1 miss ! :eel1 & !re is 8no *ange0 9 ! boxes4 ,x w be se5 t ! boxes may be mov$ ei!r up or d[n1 a space ( "o or two boxes only at a "t4 ,!re may be m ?an ?ree boxes1 z _m z five be+ regul>ly us$2 b if !re 7 five1 x w\ld n be possible to *ange f ! fir/ box to ! f\r? or fif?4 ,! greate/ *ange :i* c be made is f ! fir/ to ! ?ird1 f\r? to second1 & s on4 ,,:itesmi?',s ,,drop-,,box4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hj4 ,! pr9ciple ( ,:itesmi?'s motion is probably ! be/ = any numb] ( boxes4 ,x is usually made = f\r1 & ! *ange may be made ) c]ta9ty f "o box to any o!r4 ,! arrangem5t = work+ f\r boxes 9 a loom is illu/rat$ at ,figs4 #gh1 #gi1 #hj4 ,! pr9ciple w be be/ und]/ood by ref]r+ fir/ to ,fig4 #hj4 ,! f\r diff]5t positions ( ! boxes are "h %[n4 ,! boxes are connect$ to ! r+ or /rap ( an ecc5tric at ! po9t ,e1 & at ,a ! position ( ! p>ts is %[n :5 ! boxes are at _! l[e/ po9t4 ,! ecc5tric1 ,f1 on ! %aft has a lift ( "o box1 & !re=e by caus+ x to make half a revolution int]mitt5tly e two picks1 ! boxes w\ld be alt]nately lift$ & dropp$ a space ( "o box1 z w be se5 by ref]r+ to ,c 7,fig4 #hj71 :]e x has made half a revolution f its position at ,a4 ,x w be se5 t ,e is "o box high] at ,c ?an at ,a4 ,/>t+ aga9 f ! fir/ position1 z at ,a1 by turn+ ! out] r+ halfway r\nd & leav+ ! ecc5tric /ation>y1 !re w be a lift ( two boxes4 ,?is is %[n at ,b 7,fig4 #hj74 ,aga9 />t+ ) ! fir/ position1 z at ,a1 if we turn ! out] r+ halfway r\nd1 & at ! same "t turn ! ecc5tric ,f half-r\nd1 we lift a space ( ?ree boxes--t is1 f ! fir/ to ! f\r? box4 ,! position ( ,e 9 ?is case is %[n at ,d 7,fig4 #hj74 ,we ?us see h[ f ! bottom box any o!r ( ! f\r c be rea*$4 ,by turn+ ! ecc5tric halfway we lift "o box1 by turn+ ! r+ halfway r\nd we lift two boxes1 & by turn+ bo? r+ & ecc5tric halfway r\nd we lift ?ree boxes4 ,if we are at ! ?ird box1 z at ,b 7,fig4 #hj71 & we wi% to rea* ! second box or "o l[]1 by turn+ ! ecc5tric half a revolution & ! r+ half a revolution we %all get ! position requir$4 ,x w ?us be se5 t any "o ( ! f\r boxes may be rea*$ at w4 ,at ,fig4 #gi ano!r view ( ! ecc5trics & boxes is giv54 ,! :eel ,h is key$ to ! %aft on :i* ! ecc5tric is fix$1 & rid+ loosely ^u ?is %aft is ano!r :eel1 ,i1 ( ! same size1 to :i* a =k1 ,k1 is atta*$4 ,?is =k fits on to a p9 at ! back ( ! r+1 & ?us by turn+ ! :eel ,i ! r+ c be mov$ indep5d5tly ( ! ecc5tric4 ,if ! :eel ,h is mov$ x moves ! cam1 & if ! :eel ,i is mov$ x moves ! r+4 ,ref]r+ n[ to ,fig4 #gh1 ! :eel ,h is %[n4 ,?is :eel is driv5 by a :eel1 ,i 7,fig4 #gi71 twice its size4 ,on ! face ( ! :eel ,l !re are f\r p9s1 & by lift+ ! lev] ,,op at ,o1 ! pull+ hook ,m is dropp$ r\nd "o ( ! p9s1 & ! hook be+ mov$ =w>d by ! crank ,q w cause ! :eel ,l to make a qu>t] ( a revolution & ! :eel ,h to make half a revolution1 & !re=e ! ecc5tric is mov$ half a revolution4 ,on ! same /ud z ! :eel ,l !re is ano!r :eel exactly ! same size & ) f\r p9s2 ?is :eel 7:i* _c well be %[n 9 ! diagram7 ge>s into ! :eel ,i %[n 9 ,fig4 #gi4 ,!re is also ano!r pull+ hook :i* works along ) ,m4 ,?is second pull+ hook is op]at$ by ano!r lev] l ,,op4 ,!re are two lev]s1 ,x1 :i* are lift$ by ! c>ds1 & by lift+ ,x1 ei!r1 or bo?1 ( ! pull+ hooks may be dropp$1 & ei!r ( ! :eels ,i or ,h 7,fig4 #gi7 turn$ half a revolution1 b always 9 ! same direction4 ,! :eel ,l & its companion are prev5t$ f turn+ too f> by a /rong friction arrangem5t4 ,?is motion may be adapt$ to "w six boxes1 or ev5 m4 ,= six boxes !re is ano!r ecc5tric inside ! fir/ ecc5tric1 :i* c be work$ indep5d5tly2 ?is w1 ( c\rse1 require a ?ird pull+ hook1 & s on4 ,_m loom-mak]s h pat5t$ arrangem5ts on ! same pr9ciple1 :i* d away ) ! pull+ hooks ,m1 & x is probably 9 ?is direction t ! motion may be improv$4 ,! ,:itesmi? pr9ciple is simple1 & positive ?r\gh\t1 & x is difficult to see :y x is n 9 m g5]al use4 ,x is g5]ally admitt$ by ^? :o h _h practical exp]i5ce ( drop-box looms on ?is pr9ciple t x is ! be/4 ,!re are o!r drop-box motions1 b ! =ego+ are ! *ief k9ds4 ,,circul>-,,box ,,looms4 ,^! are n us$ 9 ! cotton trade to any?+ l ! ext5t !y are 9 ! wooll5 & wor/$ trades1 especially 9 ,york%ire4 ,x is rem>kable t ?is %\ld be ! case1 z x is claim$ = circul> boxes t !y c be run at a high] spe$ ?an any o!r k9d4 ,circul> boxes are usually made = six %uttles1 g5]ally to move only "o box at a "t1 b !y are made to skip "o box1 al?\gh ! arrangem5t is by no means s simple or satisfactory z 9 a well-made loom on ,:itesmi?'s pr9ciple1 :]e ! *anges are made f "o box to ano!r almo/ noiselessly4 ,at ,fig4 #ha ! me*anism ( a circul>-box motion is %[n4 ,!re are two hooks1 ,a & ,b1 :i* act ^u p9s outside ! boxes4 ,:5 ! hook ,a is pull$ d[n ! boxes w be turn$ "o to ! "r1 & :5 ,b is pull$ d[n !y are turn$ "o to ! left4 ,a lev]1 ,,ef1 is connect$ ) ! l[] "p ( ea* hook1 & ano!r lev]1 ,m1 is lift$ e two picks by means ( a cam1 ,c4 ,! c>ds lift or drop ! ,l lev] ,,qs at ,s1 & s ! hook ,h c ei!r be lift$ or left d[n by ! lift] ,m1 & ! boxes c be turn$ "o 9 ei!r direction4 ,a disadvantage ( circul> boxes is t !y _c be us$ 9 fa/-re$ looms on acc\nt ( ! difficulty ( op]at+ ! /op rod f ! back ( ! boxes4 ,!y are !re=e only us$ = weav+ ! light] classes ( fabrics4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ha4 ,,pick-,,&-,,pick ,,loom4 ,! majority ( box looms are made ) movable boxes at "o side ( ! loom only1 s t s+le picks ( any col\r _c be put 9 ! clo? at w4 ,z x is v desirable 9 _m fabrics to use s+le picks ( a col\r or c\nt ( weft1 x is necess>y to h movable boxes at bo? sides ( ! loom1 & :]e ?is is ! case x is usual to h pick+ me*anism :i* w all[ ( sev]al picks be+ made 9 succession f ei!r side ( ! loom4 ,if ! matt] be c>efully ?\ght ov]1 x w be easily app>5t t ev5 ) drop boxes work$ q indep5d5tly ( ea* o!r at bo? sides ( ! loom1 if ! pick+ me*anism is ( ! ord9>y k9d--viz4 to pick once f ea* side alt]nately--x w\ld be impossible to obta9 t v>iety ( *anges 9 ! %uttles :i* is 9 _m cases necess>y4 ,9 a loom ) two boxes at ea* side work$ indep5d5tly1 x w\ld be impossible to obta9 s+le picks alt]nately ( two col\rs or c\nts4 ,b by be+ able to pick twice 9 succession f ea* side ?is c be done4 ,by go+ ?r\gh all ! *anges possible ) a giv5 numb] ( boxes1 ! advantage ( ?is k9d ( pick+ arrangem5t w be v app>5t1 9 ! comm& x gives ov] any %uttle 9 ! s]ies = any pick4 ,x is !re=e necess>y to h ! pick+ me*anism a=em5tion$ 9 ord] to all[ ( all ! boxes be+ empti$ at "o side if requir$4 ,a loom ( ?is "* is call$ a 8pick-&-pick0 loom2 ! pick+ motion is sometimes call$ a 8pick at w0 motion4 ,! loom :i* we take z an example is "o on ! ,diggle's *a9 pr9ciple4 ,!re are two *a9s1 plac$ at "o side ( ! loom = conv5i5ce4 ,bo? *a9s are on "o b>rel1 ,a 7,fig4 #hb74 ,! *a9 = work+ ! boxes at ! "r-h& side ( ! loom op]ates ! lev] ,b1 & ! left-h& *a9 op]ates ! lev] ,c1 ! fulcrum ( bo? lev]s be+ at ,d4 ,:5 ^! lev]s are lift$ !y lift ! lev]s ,e & ,f1 & :5 ,e is lift$ x lifts ! boxes at ! "r-h& ( ! loom1 & :5 ,f is lift$ x lifts ! left-h& boxes4 ,! connection ( ! left-h& boxes ) ! lev] ,f is %[n at ,fig4 #hc4 ,! %aft ,g is plac$ "u ! loom1 & ! left-h& boxes are connect$ to ! lev] ,h1 :i* is fa/ to ! %aft ,g4 ,! lev] ,f is also fa/ to ! %aft ,g1 b ! lev] ,e rides loosely ^u ?is %aft1 :i* m]ely s]ves z a fulcrum = ,e4 ,f ^! two figures x w be cle>ly und]/ood h[ ! boxes may be work$ indep5d5tly at bo? sides ( ! loom by two *a9s plac$ side by side ^u ! b>rel ,a4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #he4 ,9 ord] to make ea* l9k 9 ^! *a9s repres5t any numb] ( picks1 & ?us prev5t long cumb]some *a9s1 ! me*anism %[n at ,figs4 #hd to #hg is employ$4 ,! b>rel ,a 9 ,fig4 #hd is ! same z b>rel ,a 9 ,fig4 #hb1 & c>ries ! *a9s = lift+ ! lev]s ,b & ,c4 ,at ! end ( ! b>rel ! /> :eel ,i is fix$1 & ?is /> :eel is turn$ by ! p9s ,j4 ,^! p9s are work$ by a clut* motion %[n at ,fig4 #hf1 by :i* !y c be )drawn f ge> ) ! /> :eel z desir$4 ,! p9s ,,kk are fix$1 & turn "o too? ( ! /> :eel ,y e pick1 ! :eel ,m hav+ twice ! numb] ( tee? conta9$ 9 ,l1 :i* is on ! crank %aft ( ! loom4 ,! /> :eel ,y is fa/ to ! end ( a small octagonal b>rel1 :i* c>ries a patt]n *a9 ,n compos$ ( small metal c>ds1 & we h se5 h[ ?is b>rel is turn$ "o division e pick4 ,above ?is patt]n *a9 ,n a f+]1 ,o 7,fig4 #hf71 is plac$1 & is lift$ up aga9/ a spr+ e pick by ! cam ,p on ! face ( ! :eel ,m4 ,:5 ! f+] is up1 ! p9s ,,jj are tak5 inside ! :eel ,m1 z %[n at ,fig4 #hf4 ,! cam ,p only raises ! f+] a suffici5t l5g? ( "t to all[ ! b>rel ,y to be turn$ r\nd1 & if !re is a blank 9 ! c>ds opposite ! f+] ,o :5 x is let d[n by ! cam x w /ill keep ! p9s ,j inside ! :eel1 & w ?us prev5t ei!r ( !m f engag+ ) ! /> :eel ,i1 & w leave ! boxes un*ang$4 ,?is c be repeat$ any numb] ( picks4 ,if a *ange is requir$ 9 ! boxes1 a hole is plac$ opposite ! f+] ,o1 & :5 x is let d[n ! p9s ,j project ?r\gh ! :eel ,m 7z indicat$ by ! dott$ l9es 9 ,fig4 #hf71 & ! /> :eel ,i w ?us be turn$ "o too?1 & ! *a9 c make ! *ange requir$ 9 ! boxes4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hg4 ,fig4 #hg is ano!r view ( ! cam-%ap$ projection ,p1 :i* raises ! f+] e pick1 & ,fig4 #he is ano!r view ( ! *a9 b>rel ,a4 ,! lett]s 9 ! six ,figs4 #hb to #hg inclusive ref] to ! same p>ts 9 ea* case4 ,9 ?is way ! *a9s on ,a are r>ely requir$ to be v long1 z "o l9k may be made to repres5t any numb] ( picks f "o upw>ds4 ,( c\rse a sep>ate c>d on ,y is requir$ = ea* pick1 b ^! are v small1 only ab\t #a in* 9 l5g?1 & a l>ge patt]n c be made ) v little tr\ble4 ,:5 a ,jacqu>d is us$ on "o ( ^! looms x is sometimes necess>y to "w ! patt]n f ! ,jacqu>d c>ds4 ,?is c be done 9 a v simple mann] by cov]+ ! hole 9 ! b>rel c>ry+ ! c>ds ,n ) a metal plate1 :i* is held ov] ! hole by a spr+4 ,:5 a *ange is requir$ 9 ! boxes1 a ,jacqu>d hook pulls ! plate f ov] ! hole1 & all[s ! f+] ,o to drop1 & ?us causes ! /> :eel ,i to be engag$ by ! p9s ,j4 ,! pick+ me*anism 9 a pick-&-pick loom may be ei!r ov] or "u pick4 ,9 ! =m] ! pick+ tappets are sometimes mov$ on ! %aft by a clut* arrangem5t4 ,9 ! latt] ! top ( ! pick+ treadle is movable4 ,z ! "u pick is p]haps ! be/ adapt$ = ?is loom1 we w describe x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hh4 ,fig4 #hh is a side view ( ! loom1 & ! top ( ! pick+ treadles consi/s ( a metal plate ) ! 8%oe0 ,s ( su* a %ape z to give ! requir$ =ce & "* to ! pick4 ,?is metal plate works r\nd a pivot1 ,p4 ,! treadles at bo? sides ( ! loom are ! same 9 ?is respect4 ,at ! back ( ! loom a rod1 ,r1 is connect$ to ! extreme ends ( ! loose plates or ! treadles1 & :5 "o plate is on ! treadle1 ! o!r is fix$ (f its treadle1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #hi4 ,! consequ5ce is t :5 ! pick+ b[ls come r\nd 7!re are two b[ls on ! bottom %aft at ea* side ( ! loom7 ! loom w pick always f t side :]e ! loose plate is on ! treadle1 & at ! o!r side1 :]e ! plate is (f1 ! b[ls w pass ov] ! treadle )\t t\*+ x4 ,by mov+ ! rod ,r sideways1 ! plates may be mov$ alt]nately (f & on _! treadles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ij4 ,if ! loom has f\r boxes at ea* side1 x may be necess>y to pick f\r times 9 succession f "o side ( ! loom1 & by a simple arrangem5t ! pick+ c be regulat$ at w4 ,! me*anism = mov+ ! rod ,r sideways is %[n at ,fig4 #ij4 ,inside ! loom framework a lev]1 ,l1 is c5tr$ at ,c1 & by a comb9ation ( lev]s is connect$ to ! rod ,r1 :i* is ! rod ref]r$ to 9 ! previ\s diagrams4 ,a /rong spr+ keeps ! plates "r = pick+ f "o side1 b :5 x is requir$ to pick f ! o!r ! lev] ,l is lift$1 :i* moves ! rod ,r sideways & moves ! plate (f "o treadle & on ! o!r4 ,a *a9 is us$ = lift+ ! lev] ,l1 & ! /> :eel ,a is turn$ by two p9s on ! :eel ,b on ! bottom %aft ( ! loom1 or by "o p9 if on ! crank %aft1 ?us caus+ ! /> :eel to be turn$ "o division e pick4 ,! loom may ?us be made to pick f\r times f ! "r side1 ?ree f ! left1 twice f ! "r1 & s on1 ( c\rse always tak+ c>e t ! %uttles are !re to be pick$4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,dobbies ,! tappet %$d+ motion is ! simple/ & mo/ p]fect = a small numb] ( %afts4 ,!y may be made to "w an indef9ite numb] ( %afts1 b x is seldom t above eight or t5 are work$ ) ord9>y tappets1 & ab\t sixte5 ) ,woodcr(t's or o!r plate tappets4 ,) dobbies1 a high] numb] ( %afts may conv5i5tly be work$1 b x is n only = ?is reason t dobbies are s ext5sively us$4 ,!y are ext5sively us$ = weav+ twills1 sat9s1 & o!r simple weaves1 on f\r or five %afts4 ,! *ief advantage !y possess is t any numb] ( %afts )9 _! capacity may be us$ )\t extra tr\ble or co/2 :]eas ord9>y tappets h to be made specially = ea* patt]n2 :il/ section tappets1 & oscillat+ tappets1 are inconv5i5t4 ,dobbies are made to weave up to #dj or m %afts1 b #af & #bj are ! commone/ numb]s4 ,mo/ dobbies n[ us$ are on ! d\ble-lift pr9ciple2 inde$1 ! s+le-lift dobby or wit* ma*9e is almo/ obsolete 9 cotton weav+4 ,! *ief k9d ( d\ble-lift dobby is ! 8,hatt]sley0 or 8,keighley0 dobby4 ,! pr9ciple ( ?is ma*9e 0 inv5t$ by ,messrs4 ,hatt]sley ,hill1 ( ,keighley1 ,york%ire2 h5ce its "n4 ,s9ce ! orig9al pat5t rights h expir$1 almo/ all loom mak]s h _! own p>ticul> =m ( ?is dobby1 embody+ _m m or less m9or improvem5ts on ! orig9al4 ,! pr9ciple ( ?is dobby w be und]/ood f ! lecture diagram1 ,fig4 #ia4 ,! dobby is plac$ at "o side ( ! loom1 & is !re=e 9 a conv5i5t position = be+ att5d$ to4 ,! upright rod ,r is connect$ to a crank on ! bottom %aft ( ! loom1 & !re=e ! rock+ lev] ,,ab1 c5tr$ at ,c1 w make "o complete movem5t to & fro1 e two picks4 ,! knives ,d & ,e slide along1 always reta9+ a horizontal position1 "o go+ inw>d z ! o!r comes outw>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ia4 ,! %aft or /ave is connect$ to ! jack lev] ,,fgh at ,f1 & ! upright ,,mn is fa/5$ to ?is lev] at ,h1 ! fulcrum be+ at ,g4 ,! upright ,,mn has two hooks1 ,p & ,q1 connect$ to x at opposite ends1 & suppose t :5 ! knife ,d is 9 its inn]mo/ position1 z 9 ! diagram1 ! hook ,p is dropp$ on to ! knife2 :5 ! knife beg9s to move x w take ! top ( ! upright ,,mn ) x until ,,mn assumes ! position indicat$ by ! dott$ l9e ,m,n1 & ! /ave is lift$4 ,if x is requir$ to lift ! same /ave = ! succe$+ pick1 ! bottom hook is !n dropp$ on to ! knife ,e1 :i* at t mom5t w be 9 its inn]mo/ position j comm5c+ its outw>d movem5t1 & is tak5 =w>d by x until ! upright ,,mn assumes ! position indicat$ by ! dott$ l9e ,,mn2 & x w easily be se5 t z ! top ( ! upright is mov+ back f ,m to ,m :il/ ! bottom ( ! upright is mov+ =w>d f ,n to ,n1 ! c5tre ( ! upright ,h rema9s /ation>y at ,h1 ) ! exception ( a slight movem5t caus$ by ! knife go+ fur!r back ?an ! hooks1 & ?us ! /ave rema9s up all ! "t4 ,! "* ( ! %$ is1 !re=e1 :at is t]m$ 8op5 %$0--t is1 if a /ave is requir$ up = sev]al picks 9 succession1 :5 x is lift$ x rema9s up until x is requir$ to come d[n aga94 ,?is is :at is meant by 8op5 %$0 z comp>$ ) 8c5tre %$10 ! *>act]i/ic ( :i* is t ! lift$ /ave1 in/ead ( rema9+ up1 is let d[n halfway e pick & tak5 up aga9 if requir$4 ,! me?od ( dropp+ ! hooks is z foll[s3--,two lev]s1 ,s1 ,t1 ( diff]5t %apes are employ$ = ea* pair ( hooks2 ^! lev]s are c5tr$ on a rod1 ,x4 ,"o ( ! lev]s1 viz4 ,t1 is b5t f ! fulcrum to t\* ! bottom hook1 & ! lev] ,s projects /raight out f ! fulcrum1 & an upright ne$le ,o re/s ^u x1 ! top hook re/+ ^u ! upright ne$le4 ,:5 ! lev] ,,sy is lift$ a little at ,y x w drop ! top hook1 & :5 ,,ty is lift$ at ,y x w drop ! bottom hook4 ,9 a #af %aft dobby ! p>ts %[n 9 ! diagram are duplicat$ sixte5 times--t is1 !re are sixte5 uprights ,,mn1 ea* ) two hooks1 sixte5 lev]s ,,sy1 sixte5 l ,,ty1 & sixte5 ( o!r p>ts4 ,! lev]s ,,sy & ,,ty are op]at$ by lags pegg$ s z to lift ! /aves to give ! requir$ patt]n4 ,^! lags "w r\nd a cyl9d] or b>rel1 :i* is turn$ r\nd ! space ( "o lag e two picks int]mitt5tly4 ,ea* lag op]ates ! hooks = two picks1 "o r[ ( pegs op]ates ! top hooks ,p1 & ! o!r r[ ( pegs ! bottom hooks ,q4 ,! me?od ( pegg+ ! lags w be und]/ood f ,fig4 #ib1 :]e two lags are %[n ) ! pegg+ = a two & two twill4 ,( c\rse c>e mu/ always be tak5 t ! pegs are put opposite ! prop] lev]s1 z :5 only a portion ( ! jacks are us$1 say eight1 x is (t5 pref]r$ t ! /aves be connect$ to eight jacks 9 ! middle ( ! ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ib4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ic4 ,dobbies con/ruct$ ) s+le jacks1 z indicat$ 9 ,fig4 #ia1 are only suitable = n>r[ looms4 ,^? con/ruct$ ) d\ble jacks are pref]able = wid] looms1 z !y n only keep ! healds "u bett] comm&1 b !y also move !m 9 a p]fectly v]tical plane )\t ! t5d5cy to a slight side movem5t su* z occurs :5 ! healds are controll$ by s+le jacks1 9 consequ5ce ( ! ends ( ^! describ+ an arc ( a circle z !y rise & fall4 ,"o ( ! be/ adaptations ( d\ble jacks to ! ,keighley type ( dobby is t exemplifi$ 9 ! 8,climax0 dobby made by ,lupton & ,place1 ,burnley4 ,?is is repres5t$ 9 ,fig4 #ic1 9 :i* ,a & ,b are complem5t>y jack-lev]s op]at$ f ! same baulk-lev]1 ,j1 controll$ by hooks ,p & ,q1 to gov]n ! same heald4 ,! di/9ctive features ( ?is dobby are ! con/ruction ( ! out] jack-lev] ,a 9 "o "p1 in/ead ( two p>ts1 & its atta*m5t ) ! inn] jack1 ,b1 by means ( a l9k1 ,c4 ,?is modification is a great improvem5t on d\ble-jack dobbies 9 :i* ! connections are made ) /ream] hooks or rods1 or ^? 9 :i* ! jacks are ge>$ by means ( too!d segm5ts1 z ^! increase ! numb] ( p>ts t are liable to we> & to get out ( ord]4 ,! ,keighley dobby is decid$ly ! mo/ popul> "o at ! pres5t "t1 b :at is kn[n z ! 8,blackburn0 dobby is pref]r$ by "s4 ,?is is a d\ble-lift dobby1 :i* gives a c5tre %$--t is1 ! /aves :i* are requir$ up = a numb] ( picks 9 succession are let d[n halfway e pick & tak5 up aga94 ,! pr9ciple ( ?is dobby is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #id4 ,! /aves are lift$ by ! two jacks ,a & ,b2 :5 ,b is lift$ x causes ,a to lift ! same di/ance4 ,!re are two hooks1 ,d & ,f1 = ea* d\ble jack1 & ! lags are divid$ into two p>ts1 all ! odd numb]$ picks be+ fa/5$ toge!r1 & ! ev5 picks =m+ ano!r *a94 ,! pegs 9 ! lags press back ! hooks1 ! back "p ( ea* ( :i* =ms a spr+1 s t :5 ! hook is press$ back x leaves ! /ave d[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #id4 ,! knives lift alt]nately4 ,:5 "o is go+ up ! o!r is go+ d[n1 & :5 "o hook ( a pair is lift$1 z 9 ! diagram1 a lag op]ates ! o!r hook1 & if ! same /ave has to be lift$ = ! next pick1 ! hook is left ov] ! knife1 & ! second hook w be tak5 up :il/ ! /ave is be+ let d[n1 & w cat* x halfway & take x up to ! top aga94 ,?is is ! advantage ( all d\ble-lift ma*9es ov] s+le-lift4 ,! /aves :i* are requir$ up = a c]ta9 pick are be+ tak5 up :il/ ^? :i* 7 up = ! previ\s are com+ d[n4 ,a sav+ ( "t is ?us effect$1 & ! looms c be run quick] ?an ) s+le-lift ma*9es4 ,a crank ,l on ! end ( ! bottom1 or pick+1 %aft is connect$ by means ( a lift+-rod ,e to ! end ( a horizontal arm ,m1 m\nt$ on a %aft ,g1 :i* con/itutes a fulcrum = ! arm4 ,on "o end ( %aft ,g1 at ! re> ( ! ma*9e1 !re is fix$ a too!d quadrant ,h1 :i*1 ?r\gh ! m$ium ( a small :eel1 transmits motion to a simil> too!d quadrant ,h fix$ on ! end ( a %aft ,g2 & ea* quadrant is connect$1 by means ( rods ,k & ,k to ! re> ends ( ! respective griffe-b>s ,d & ,f4 ,on ! opposite ends ( ! %afts ,g & ,g1 !re are fix$1 "o on ea* %aft1 two %ort arms :i* are respectively connect$ to ! =e ends ( ! griffe-b>s4 ,!re=e1 z ! crank ,l revolves1 ! griffes are rais$ & depress$ alt]nately1 & 9 a contr>y mann]4 ,ano!r ?+ to be borne 9 m9d is t 9 a s+le-lift ma*9e all ! /aves come to ! bottom e pick1 & !re=e ! "* ( ! %$ is diff]5t f t ( a d\ble-lift4 ,9 d\ble-lift ma*9es !re are ! 8op5-%$0 l ! ,keighley dobby1 & ! 8c5tre %$0 l ! ,blackburn dobby4 ,x is important to rememb] ^! po9ts1 z ! cov] & appe>ance ( ! clo? is affect$ by ! beat+-up be+ done 9 diff]5t k9ds ( %$s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ie4 ,! loom crank is usually set at ! top c5tre1 or !reab\ts1 :5 ! ris+ & fall+ /aves are level1 s t ! %$ w be p>tly op5 = ! next pick by ! "t ! loom crank gets to ! front c5tre4 ,9 s+le-lift dobbies ! beat-up is made :5 ! %$ is clos$1 & s ! w>p has n ! same *ance ( be+ spread z ) ! tim+ ( d\ble-lift dobbies4 ,?is diff]5ce 9 ! "* ( ! %$ :5 ! beat-up is made is caus$ by ! fact t 9 a d\ble-lift ma*9e ! knives1 be+ 9 ! middle ( _! /roke1 are mov+ at _! quicke/ spe$ :5 ! %$ is clos$1 & 9 a s+le-lift ! knife is almo/ /ation>y :5 ! %$ is clos$4 ,! same ?+ occurs 9 ,jacqu>ds1 & ! matt] may be bett] und]/ood by a ref]5ce to ! *apt] on ,jacqu>ds4 ,dobbies c be made 8positive0 9 v>i\s ways4 ,keighley dobbies are made ) a p9 fix$ on ! upright ,,mn 7,fig4 #ia7 at ! po9t ,h4 ,a wire is hook$ on to ?is p9 & connect$ to an ,l lev] at ! side ( ! loom opposite ! dobby2 ?is is connect$ to a lev] at ! bottom ( ! loom4 ,by connect+ ! bottom ( "o /ave to ?is lev] ! /ave w be pull$ d[n z ! upright ,,mn is tak5 =w>d1 & s ! knife :il/ tak5 "o /ave up is pull+ ano!r d[n1 r5d]+ ! dobby positive4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 w only d = c]ta9 simple patt]ns1 su* z twills1 sat9s1 & simil> weaves1 & w\ld n d = patt]ns :]e diff]5t numb]s ( /aves are lift$ e pick4 ,positive dobbies are n mu* us$ 9 ! cotton trade4 ,! ord9>y =m ( dobby is non-positive1 ! /ave be+ kept d[n by spr+s 9 "s =m or o!r4 ,"o reason :i* may be urg$ aga9/ ord9>y spr+s1 or 8jack boxes10 is t ! pull on ! heald increases z ! /ave is lift$ & ! spr+ op5$4 ,x is obvi\s t ?is is j ! rev]se ( :at is requir$1 z ! /ave is lift$ positively1 & ! pull on x may !re=e conv5i5tly be decreas$ z x is lift$1 & ! healds w\ld la/ long]4 ,! use ( ! spr+ is to keep ! /ave d[n1 & !re=e x %\ld ex]t its greate/ =ce :5 ! /ave is at ! bottom4 ,a simple me?od ( accompli%+ ?is has long be5 9 use4 ,some?+ on ! same pr9ciple has be5 us$ on h& looms = g5]ations1 & v *eap & conv5i5t und]motions ( ?is k9d h long be5 available = p[] looms2 b1 /range to say1 cotton manufactur]s h be5 v sl[ at adopt+ !m4 ,an und]motion ( ?is k9d is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #if4 ,! spr+ is fix$ at ,a1 & a wire hook connects ! spr+ ) ! quadrant at ,b4 ,x w easily be se5 t z ! /ave lifts1 ! direction ( ! pull ( ! spr+ is gradually mov$ ov] ! c5tre ( ! quadrant at ,c4 ,if ! /ave 7 lift$ until ! spr+ 0 9 a direct l9e f ,a to ,c1 ! pull on ! /ave w\ld be nil1 z all ! =ce w\ld be ex]t$ on ! fulcrum4 ,ea* /ave is connect$ at bo? sides 9 ! same mann]1 ! spr+s & o!r p>ts are all arrang$ 9 a v compact mann]1 & ! co/ is v small4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #if4 ,ano!r =m ( und]motion on ! same pr9ciple is mu* us$ 9 ,york%ire 9 ! wooll5 & wor/$ trades4 ,?is is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #ig1 & is kn[n z ,k5yon's und]motion4 ,9 ?is ! spr+s are arrang$ horizontally1 & !re=e long] spr+s c be us$4 ,! quadrant is c5tr$ at ,c1 & a /rap is fa/ to ! quadrant at ,d4 ,! spr+ is connect$ ) ! quadrant at ,f4 ,! /rap passes f ! quadrant "u ! b[l ,b1 & !n to ! /ave4 ,ano!r quadrant s]ves 9 ! same mann] = ! opposite side4 ,! spr+ is fa/5$ to a b> at ,e1 & z ! /ave is lift$1 ! pull ( ! spr+ is gradually mov$ ov] ! c5tre ,c1 & !re=e ! pull on ! heald gradually decreases z x is lift$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ig4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,miscellane\s ,:5 two or m pieces are wov5 9 "o wid? & aft]w>ds cut or torn ap>t1 if !re are n a few l5o ends to divide ea* piece ! w>p ?reads h no?+ to /op !m f com+ out at ! cut sides4 ,9 light fabrics ?is is a great] disadvantage ?an 9 heavy & f9ely pick$ ones1 su* z velvets1 & !re=e 9 ! =m] x is usual to weave a few ends l5o to keep ! edge firm4 ,!re are v>i\s k9ds ( motions = effect+ ?is object1 "o ( ! olde/ be+ t illu/rat$ at ,figs4 #ih & #ii4 ,?is is = an ord9>y pla9 loom1 & ! cross+ end is tak5 ?r\gh ! back /ave & ?r\gh a loop f ! top ( ! front /ave4 ,?is loop is (t5 =m$ ( a small f9e pliable *a91 z x we>s long] ?an wor/$4 ,fig4 #ih %[s ! back /ave lift$1 & ,fig4 #ii1 ! front /ave up1 :5 x w be se5 t ! cross+ end is br\ght up on ! opposite side f ! previ\s pick4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ih4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aja4 ,ano!r1 & p]haps a bett]1 me?od1 is ,%orrock & ,taylor's pat5t1 %[n at ,figs4 #ajj & #aja4 ,= a pla9 loom ! two /raps ,a & ,b are fa/5$ to a drum on ! top roll] ( ! loom4 ,9 ^! /raps are ! small eyes ,c & ,d1 & ?r\gh ^! eyes ! cross+ ends are tak54 ,! 8/&>d0 ends1 r\nd :i* ,c & ,d are cross$1 are drawn ?r\gh ! fix$ eyes ,,ef1 imm$iately above ! small bobb9s ,,mn4 ,! /raps pass r\nd ! bobb9s & up to ! ela/ics ,x1 :i* are fa/5$ to a hook1 ,l1 at ! top ( ! loom4 ,! top roll] is rock$ to & fro by ! ord9>y /aves1 & :5 rock$ 9 ! direction aga9/ ! ela/ics ! cross+ ?reads are br\ght up inside z %[n at ,fig4 #ajj1 & z ! roll] rocks back ! ela/ics pull ! eyes ,c & ,d completely r\nd ! bobb9s & take ! cross+ ?reads up ! o!r side ( ! 8dummy0 or 8/&>d0 ends1 ,,ef4 ,! selv$ge =m$ is ?us l t %[n at ,fig4 #ajb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajb4 ,!re are _m pat5ts tak5 out e ye> = split motions1 b ! simple old =ms /ill keep _! place4 ,ano!r inv5tion ( a totally diff]5t k9d may be m5tion$4 ,9 ?is1 ! weft is cut betwe5 ! two clo?s e pick z x is be+ wov51 & ! loose end is !n turn$ r\nd & tak5 into ! clo? at ! next pick1 ?us =m+ a practically p]fect selv$ge2 inde$1 x w\ld be impossible = any "o to f9d out ! diff]5ce )\t be+ told or mak+ a v close exam9ation4 ,= ab\t half an in* at ! inn] side ( ! clo? !re are d\ble picks1 b ?is is sc>cely noticeable4 ,! practical utility ( ?is inv5tion is yet to be prov$1 & "o ?+ to militate aga9/ its g5]al adoption is its co/1 :i* is sev]al p\nds p] loom1 :]eas "s ( ! ord9>y split motions co/ only a few %ill+s p] loom4 ,) ,jacqu>ds or dobbies x is an easy matt] to arrange an ord9>y d\p heald to =m a split1 b ! arrangem5ts be=e m5tion$ are us$ = pla9 looms1 :]e x is n s easy to get ! requir$ lift4 ,! twi/ us$ mu/ be v /rong1 z no slack5] is us$4 ,usually x is a ?ree-or f\r-or six-fold cotton ?read4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajc4 ,ano!r k9d ( selv$ge motion is t us$ = produc+ a pla9 selv$ge on a loom weav+ satte5s ) tappets4 ,! fact ( ! ord9>y satte5 be+ five picks to ! r\nd1 & a pla9 selv$ge be+ a necessity1 causes ei!r ! tappets to be made t5 to ! r\nd1 work+ ! pla9 selv$ges by tappets on ! same %aft1 or ! selv$ge ends mu/ be work$ f ano!r %aft4 ,9 :at is kn[n z ,smalley's satte5 motion ! =m] pr9ciple is act$ ^u3 ! tappets are t5 to ! r\nd1 & ! pla9 is work$ f ! same %aft4 ,a m ord9>y =m is t %[n at ,fig4 #ajc4 ,a small tappet1 ,a1 is fitt$ on ! bottom %aft 7or pick+ %aft71 & ?is acts ^u a lev]1 ,b1 to :i* ! bottom ( "o set ( h>ness ?reads conta9+1 say1 ! odd-numb]$ ends ( ! pla9 is connect$1 ! o!r1 or ev5-numb]$1 ends ( ! pla9 be+ connect$ to ! ela/ic ,e1 ! b[l ,f at ! top be+ us$ = work+ r\nd4 ,:5 ! tappet presses d[n ! lev] ,b1 x w take half ! pla9 ends d[n & ! o!r half up1 & ! ela/ic w pull back aga9 z ! tappet all[s x4 ,9 ?is way a pla9 selv$ge is obta9$ 9 a five-%aft satte54 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajd4 ,ano!r me?od ( effect+ ! same purpose is %[n at ,fig4 #ajd4 ,a %aft ,a is plac$ "u ! loom1 & ?is %aft is made to rock to & fro to "w ! mails ,b & ,c alt]nately up & d[n4 ,! pick+ %aft ( ! loom has a crank ,m fa/5$ to x1 & a /rap ,s is tak5 f ?is crank to ! small drum ,h on ! %aft ,a1 & is wrapp$ r\nd x4 ,z ! crank ,m revolves x w pull ! %aft ,a 9 "o direction until ! crank gets to ! top1 & :5 ! crank has pass$ ! top ( its /roke ! spr+ ,x w pull ! %aft back to its orig9al position1 & ?us ! requir$ reciprocat+ motion is giv5 to ! %aft ,a & to ! mails ,b & ,c4 ,d\ble-beat ,slay4 ,a d\ble beat is sometimes requir$ to be giv5 to ea* pick ( weft4 ,?is is done 9 weav+ "s ( ! heavie/ k9ds ( sack+s1 c>pets1 & simil> fabrics4 ,fig4 #aje %[s h[ ?is is effect$4 ,,ab is ! slay1 & is movable ab\t ,b z a c5tre2 ,,ec is 9 two pieces1 viz4 ,,ed & ,,dc1 & ^! are fitt$ loosely on a p9 at ,d4 ,x w be obvi\s t :5 ! crank occupies ei!r position ,,qp or ,,qp1 ! slay w be at ! front ( its /roke1 & z ! crank is mov+ f ,p to ,m x w pull ! slay back a little1 & 9 mov+ f ,m to ,p a second beat-up w be made4 ,:il/ ! crank is mov+ f ,p to ,p ! %uttle is pass$ ?r\gh ! %$4 ,x is obvi\s t a beat-up ( ?is k9d w enable ! weft to be beat5 well up into ! clo?1 & m to be put 9 ?an ) a s+le beat4 ,! =ce ex]t$ is (t5 s great t ! looms h to be v firmly fa/5$ into ! floor on :i* !y /&1 or !y w\ld move4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aje4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,jacqu>d ,,weav+ ,! ,jacqu>d ma*9e 0 ! inv5tion ( a ,fr5*man ( t "n1 :o exhibit$ ! ma*9e ab\t ! ye> #ahjj4 ,x 0 introduc$ into ?is c\ntry ab\t tw5ty ye>s lat]4 ,! *ief advantage ( ! ma*9e is t a l>ge numb] ( w>p ?reads c be op]at$ sep>ately1 & a l>g] figure be produc$ ?an ) a %aft h>ness4 ,! *ief ideas 9 ! ma*9e are t ea* mail is connect$ sep>ately to its hook1 & ! use ( p]=at$ c>ds to leave any hook ov] ! griffe if x is requir$ to be lift$1 or to pu% x away f x if ! hook is requir$ to be left d[n 9 ! %$4 ,! orig9al ,jacqu>d ma*9e 0 a s+le-lift1 & al?\gh _m m9or improvem5ts h be5 made 9 x1 ! ma9 features are practically ! same to-day z 9 ! e>lie/ ma*9es introduc$ into ?is c\ntry4 ,at ! pres5t day ! s+le-lift is comp>atively little us$ 9 cotton manufacture ow+ to ! increas$ spe$ at :i* d\ble-lifts c be work$1 b x is /ill pref]r$ 9 silk manufacture = sev]al reasons4 ,"o reason is t ! "* ( ! %$ :5 beat+ up 9 a d\ble-lift ma*9e is ess5tially diff]5t to t produc$ by a h&-loom1 :]e ( c\rse a s+le-lift is always us$1 & z h&-loom fabrics h a f9] t\* & appe>ance ?an p[]-loom fabrics1 ! object is to imitate ! h&-loom production z ne>ly z possible4 ,! cause ( ?is diff]5ce 9 ! "* ( ! %$ :5 beat+ up w be expla9$ lat] 9 ?is *apt]4 ,ano!r reason is t silk-looms c\ld nev] be run at any spe$ high] ?an t ( :i* a s+le-lift ma*9e is capable1 & !re=e ! advantage ( increas$ spe$ ( ! d\ble-lift is ( no use4 ,d\ble-lifts1 ow+ to ! c\nt]poise & ! division ( ! "w on to two knives1 are und\bt$ly /eadi] 9 work+1 & ?is is an argum5t decid$ly 9 _! fav\r4 ,s+le-lifts are /ill us$ 9 ! manufacture ( figur$ l5os1 z no %ak+ motion has yet be5 successfully adapt$ to enable ! cross+ ends to cross ) a d\ble-lift ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajf4 ,a s+le-lift ,jacqu>d = weav+ a patt]n :i* occupies #djj ends 9 a repeat consi/s ( #djj hooks & #djj ne$les1 ) an extra r[ ( eight hooks = selv$ges1 or o!r auxili>y use4 ,! hooks are arrang$ 9 eight r[s ) #ea hooks 9 a r[4 ,a cross section ( ?is ,jacqu>d is %[n at ,fig4 #ajf1 :]e ! uprights are ! hooks & ! horizontal wires ! 8ne$les40 ,a is ! 8ne$le bo>d10 & ?is is a p]=at$ bo>d ?r\gh :i* ! ne$les pass4 ,! bottom ne$le ,b is twi/$ or loop$ r\nd ! back hook ,d1 & ! connection ( ! o!r ne$les & hooks is %[n4 ,at ! back ( ea* ne$le a small spr+ made ( f9e brass or /eel wire is plac$4 ,^! spr+s are held 9 position 9 ! 8spr+-box0 ,s4 ,!re are1 !re=e1 #djh spr+s requir$ = ! #djh ne$les4 ,! hooks re/ on ! grate ,g1 b 9 "s makes ( ma*9e ! grate is n us$ & ! hooks re/ ^u a 8bottom bo>d40 ,9 ?is case ! hooks are v liable to turn r\nd1 & ?us cause annoyance4 ,to prev5t ?is1 flat hooks h be5 us$1 & ! ne$le loop 0 %ap$ s z n to p]mit ! hook to turn )9 x4 ,! eight knives =m ! griffe4 ,^! knives are all fa/5$ toge!r1 & are mov$ up & d[n f ! crank-%aft ( ! loom4 ,! illu/ration %[s ! knives at ! bottom ( _! /roke1 & at ?is po9t1 or imm$iately aft] ! griffe beg9s to move upw>ds1 ! c>d on ! p]=at$ cyl9d] ,e is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les1 & if !re is a hole 9 ! c>d1 ! ne$le directly opposite ! hole w pass ?r\gh x & into ! p]=ation 9 ! cyl9d]1 & ! knife w take up ! hook to :i* ?is ne$le is connect$4 ,if ! c>d is blank opposite any ne$le x w press back ! hook1 & z ! knife lifts1 ! hook is left d[n4 ,?us x is possible to lift any ( ! #djh hooks 9 ! ma*9e = any pick4 ,:5 ! cyl9d] is tak5 away f ! ne$les ! hooks are =c$ back into _! orig9al position by ! small spr+s 9 ! spr+-box ,s4 ,x w be notic$ t ! knives are lean+ a little1 & ! reason = ?is w be app>5t1 z if !y 7 n lean+ !y w\ld cat* ! tops ( ! hooks 9 com+ d[n1 & w\ld break or b5d !m4 ,! slop+ position enables ! knives 9 com+ d[n to press back ! tops ( ! hooks & s get "u !m1 ready = ! next c>d to be press$ aga9/ ! ne$les4 ,! knives %\ld come d[n l[ en\gh to be q cle> ( ! hooks1 & !re=e 9 ?is ma*9e !re is a consid]able dwell :5 ! %$ is clos$4 ,! h>ness = a /raight-ov] patt]n is m\nt$ z %[n at ,fig4 #ajg4 ,9 ord] to prev5t confusion ! connection ( ! cords to ! ma*9e is n %[n1 b ! numb]s on ! l9e ,a repres5t ! hooks 9 ! ma*9e to :i* ! cords are to be atta*$4 ,! 8comb]-bo>d0 or 8cumb]-bo>d0 ,b is a frame into :i* p]=at$ slips are fitt$4 ,^! slips are p]=at$ to diff]5t degrees ( f95ess1 ! f95ess be+ regulat$ by ! numb] ( ends p] in* requir$ 9 ! clo? to be wov54 ,! l+oes1 ,l1 are metal weights1 & s]ve ! purpose ( keep+ ! mails d[n4 ,,mm are ! mails1 ?r\gh :i* ! w>p ?reads are drawn 9 ! ord] %[n by ! numb]s1 beg9n+ at ! back left-h& corn]4 ,! draft 9 /raight-ov] patt]ns is always tak5 9 ?is way 9 ,jacqu>d weav+1 al?\gh x is n compulsory4 ,! h>ness is built ) l95 ?read1 & ! me?od ( tie+ ! l+oes to ! hooks w be und]/ood f ! diagram4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajg4 ,:5 "o l+oe has be5 connect$ to ea* ( 7say7 #djj hooks1 ! fir/ patt]n is complete4 ,suppos+ !re are #ajj ends p] in*1 ! patt]n w occupy #d in*es1 & !re=e if clo? is requir$ #bh in*es wide 9 ! h>ness1 !re mu/ be sev5 l+oes atta*$ to ea* hook1 mak+ sev5 patt]ns1 or sev5 repeats ( ! patt]n1 9 ! wid? ( clo?4 ,?us :5 "o l+oe has be5 ti$ to ea* hook1 beg9n+ ) ! fir/ & end+ ) ! #djj?1 ano!r is connect$ to ea* hook1 beg9n+ aga9 ) ! fir/2 & :5 ?is is done o!r patt]ns are =m$ 9 ! same mann] until ! requir$ numb] is complete4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajh4 ,x is important to h a cle> und]/&+ z to :i* is ! hook :i* lifts ! fir/ end 9 ! draft4 ,?is hook is ! "o connect$ ) ! bottom ne$le 9 ! la/ r[ on ! #be-side ( ! ma*9e4 ,z we /at$ previ\sly1 a #djjs ma*9e has #djj hooks arrang$ 9 #ej r[s ( #h1 or #h r[s ( #ej hooks1 & 9 addition !re is always a sp>e r[ ( hooks1 mak+ #ea r[s 9 all4 ,z x is necess>y to lace ! c>ds 9 ! middle z well z at ! sides1 a space has to be all[$ = ! lace holes1 & !re=e ! ma*9e is divid$ into two p>ts by a space betwe5 ! #bf? & #bg? r[s4 ,a plan ( a c>d is giv5 at ,fig4 #ajh4 ,! l5g? ( ! c>d betwe5 ! two peg holes ,a & ,b is ne>ly #ad in*es1 & ! di/ance betwe5 ! c5tre ( ! top ne$les & ! bottom ne$les is #a in* exactly4 ,?is holds good = all ,engli%-made ma*9es1 b ! ,am]ican index is diff]5t4 ,x w be se5 t !re are #bf r[s on ! "r ( ! ma*9e & #be r[s on ! left1 & "o is call$ ! 8#bf-side0 & ! o!r ! 8#be-side40 ,! c>ds are always numb]$ at ! 8#bf-side10 & ! cutt+ is comm5c$ at ?is end4 ,x may be z well to expla9 "h ! ord] 9 :i* ! holes are cut f ! design1 z x w assi/ 9 foll[+ ! po9t pap] design to ! loom4 ,! cutt+ is usually done 9 a 8piano0 cutt+ ma*9e1 :i* w be expla9$ m fully lat] on4 ,by ?is ma*9e "o r[ ( eight holes c be cut by op]at+ eight pun*es & press+ d[n ! "r-foot treadle ( ! ma*9e4 ,! numb] end ( ! c>d is gripp$ by ! ma*9e1 & at ! fir/ /roke ( ! "r foot1 ! lace holes ,,ef & ! peg hole ,a are cut1 !n "o /roke ( ! treadle is made )\t cutt+1 & ! po9t] ( ! ma*9e arrives at ! #a/ or sp>e r[4 ,if ! selv$ges are work$ f ?is r[1 holes are cut accord+ly4 ,!n ! po9t] comes to ! #bnd r[1 & 9 ?is r[ ! cutt+ f ! design is comm5c$4 ,at ,fig4 #aji ! design is made on po9t pap]1 z x is requir$ to appe> 9 ! clo? "r side up1 ) ! twill 9 ! gr\nd runn+ 9 ! same direction z %[n on ! design4 ,:5 cutt+1 ! design is usually turn$ r\nd1 z %[n at ,fig4 #aaj1 & ! cutt+ comm5ces f ! top "r-h& corn] ,a4 ,to %[ ! matt] cle>ly1 ! fir/ r[ ( holes cut are numb]$1 bo? 9 ! design & ! c>d1 9 consecutive ord]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aji4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaj4 ,! fir/ hole cut 9 ! c>d is op]at$ ) ! little f+] ( ! "r h&4 ,foll[+ ?is hole to ! loom1 we f9d x op]ates ! la/ or #djj? end 9 ! draft1 & t ! hole cut la/ on ! c>d 7numb]$ #djj7 op]ates ! fir/ end 9 ! draft4 ,?is is ! hole :i* op]ates ! bottom ne$le 9 ! la/ r[ on ! 8#be-side0 ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e1 :i*1 z 0 previ\sly /at$1 is ! hook f :i* ! draft beg9s4 ,foll[+ out ! op]ation ( cutt+ ! c>d4 ,:5 ! #bf? r[ has be5 cut1 ! lace holes ,,mn 7,fig4 #ajh7 are cut1 & !n ! cutt+ is aga9 /raight-=w>d to ! #ej? r[4 ,! piano ma*9e is s con/ruct$ t ) ! same /roke ( ! treadle :i* cuts ! #ea/ r[ ! peg hole ,d is also cut1 & !n foll[s a /roke )\t cutt+1 aft] :i* ! two lace holes ,t & ,y are cut4 ,?is makes #ef /rokes ( ! foot = ea* c>d4 ,x is usual1 9 ord] to economise space1 = ! ,jacqu>ds ) /raight1 or 8,norwi*10 h>nesses to be plac$ on ! loom1 s t on "o loom ! c>ds hang ov] ! weav]'s head1 & on ! next ! c>ds are at ! back ( ! loom4 ,9 bo? cases ! h>nesses are built ! same way1 b 9 "o case 7c>ds ov] weav]'s head7 ! ?read op]at$ by ! bottom ne$le on ! 8#be-side0 w be at ! back ( ! comb]-bo>d1 at ! left h&2 & 9 ! o!r case 7c>ds beh9d loom7 ! same ?read w be at ! front ( ! comb]-bo>d at ! "r-h& side4 ,z previ\sly /at$1 ! s+le-lift ,jacqu>d = cotton weav+ is n (t5 employ$ except = special purposes1 su* z figur$ l5o weav+4 ,! advantage possess$ by ! d\ble-lift ,jacqu>d z reg>ds spe$ is s v consid]able t its adoption = ord9>y =ms ( cotton weav+ has become univ]sal2 & ! advantage ( spe$ is n ! only advantage x possesses1 z w be po9t$ out %ortly4 ,a d\ble-lift ma*9e ) "o cyl9d] = a #djj end patt]n consi/s ( #hjj hooks & #djj ne$les4 ,ea* ne$le is twi/$ or b5t r\nd two hooks1 z %[n at ,fig4 #aaa4 ,! hooks are connect$ toge!r 9 twos by neck cords1 :i* are usually /rong :ipcord1 z w be se5 f ! illu/ration4 ,x w be se5 t ! bottom ne$le is b5t r\nd ! back pair ( hooks1 ! next ne$le r\nd ano!r pair1 & s on4 ,ea* ne$le has a spr+ beh9d x1 z 9 a s+le-lift ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaa4 ,!re are two griffes1 :i* "w oppositely--t is1 z "o goes up ! o!r comes d[n4 ,! griffes 7or knives7 are work$ by a d\ble crank on ! bottom %aft ( ! loom1 s t ea* griffe moves f ! bottom to top ( its /roke 9 "o pick1 & f top to bottom 9 ano!r pick4 ,! pr9ciple ( ! d\ble-lift w be und]/ood f ,fig4 #aab4 ,"o knife1 ,a1 is at ! top1 & ! o!r knife1 ,b1 is d[n4 ,"o hook ( ! pair is lift$1 & !re=e ! ends 9 ! mails connect$ to ! neck cord at ,c w be lift$4 ,suppose n[ x is requir$ to lift ! same ends ( w>p = ! next pick3 a c>d is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les1 & if !re is a hole 9 ! c>d opposite ! ne$le ,e1 x w leave ! ne$le & ! hook ,n :]e !y are1 & z ! knife ,b is lift$1 ! hook ,n w be tak5 up z ! hook ,m is com+ d[n4 ,! hooks w cross at ab\t ! middle ( _! /roke1 & ! weight ( ! ends & l+oes on ! cord ,c w at t mom5t pass f ! hook ,m to ! hook ,n4 ,9 ! diagram ! cord atta*$ to ! hook ,n is slack1 b :5 ?is hook is lift$ ! cord w gradually taut5 until x be>s all ! weight1 :5 ! cord f ! hook ,m becomes slack4 ,we ?us h ! ends = ! second pick lift$ :il/ ! ends :i* 7 up = ! previ\s pick are com+ d[n4 ,?is is :]e ! advantage ( ! d\ble lift lies4 ,9 a s+le lift ! knife mu/ lift ! hooks up & !n come d[n to ! bottom be=e ano!r c>d c op]ate ! ne$les1 :]eas 9 a d\ble lift ! c>d = a second pick c be br\ght aga9/ ! ne$les z soon z ! ends :i* 7 up = ! previ\s pick are ready to come d[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aab4 ,x is obvi\s t 9 ! position %[n 9 ,fig4 #aab1 :5 "o knife is up & ! o!r d[n & ! ne$le press$ back by ! c>d1 t ! hook ,m w also be press$ back1 z %[n by ! dott$ l9e4 ,! b5d ( ! hook ov] ! knife1 !re=e1 mu/ be suffici5t to prev5t ! hook be+ pu%$ (f ! knife1 & x w be notic$ t ! hooks 9 ?is class ( ma*9e are b5t m ?an ! hooks 9 a s+le-lift ma*9e4 ,! hooks re/ on ! grate ,g1 ,fig4 #aaa1 & ! %ape ( ! hook at ?is po9t acts z a spr+ to /raight5 ! lift$ hooks aft] ! pressure ( ! c>d has be5 tak5 (f ! ne$les4 ,a ma*9e ( ?is k9d c be run at a spe$ ( ab\t #afj or #agj picks a m9ute1 z comp>$ ) ! #acj or #adj picks ( a s+le-lift4 ,a d\ble-lift ma*9e on ano!r pr9ciple is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #aac4 ,?is is a two-cyl9d] ma*9e1 & to weave a patt]n repeat+ on #djj ends ?is ma*9e requires #hjj hooks & #hjj ne$les4 ,! cyl9d]s "w at opposite sides4 ,! hooks are plac$ z %[n 9 ! diagram1 ! hook$ p>ts fac+ ea* o!r 9 pairs1 & by foll[+ c>efully ! mann] 9 :i* ! ne$les are twi/$ r\nd ! hooks x w be se5 t !re are really two s+le-lift ma*9es plac$ toge!r1 alt]nate r[s ( hooks repres5t+ ea* ma*9e4 ,!re are two griffes1 z 9 ! d\ble-lift s+le-cyl9d] ma*9e1 & ! griffes are work$ 9 ! same mann]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aac4 ,! cyl9d]s "w alt]nately1 ! c>ds be+ lac$ 9 two sets1 all ! odd numb]s be+ toge!r 9 "o set & ! ev5 numb]s =m+ ano!r set4 ,imm$iately "o knife is at ! top & ! o!r at ! bottom1 "o cyl9d] is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les1 & x w be notic$ t ! hooks :i* ea* cyl9d] op]ates h ! hook$ p>ts 9 ! direction ( ! cyl9d]4 ,:5 ! hooks op]at$ by "o cyl9d] are at ! top ! o!r cyl9d] is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les1 & ?us ! "w done by "o cyl9d] 9 ,fig4 #aaa is divid$ betwe5 two 9 ?is ma*9e4 ,! advantage ( ?is ma*9e is 9 ! less5$ spe$ ( ! cyl9d]s4 ,! vibration caus$ by ! cyl9d] work+ at a high spe$ 9 a s+le-cyl9d] ma*9e is s great t ! limit is rea*$ at ab\t #agj picks p] m9ute1 :]eas a d\ble-cyl9d] ma*9e c be run up to #bjj or sometimes ev5 m picks p] m9ute1 ?\gh p]haps #ahj is a m advantage\s spe$4 ,! top set ( ne$les project a little fur!r ?r\gh ! ne$le bo>d to comp5sate = ! diff]5ce 9 lev]age on ! hooks4 ,besides ! advantage ( spe$1 d\ble-lifts h an advantage 9 ! c\nt]poise obta9$ by "o set ( hooks go+ up z ! o!r comes d[n4 ,?is causes a m ev5 motion & /eadi] work+4 ,ano!r advantage possess$ by d\ble-lifts is t ! beat+ up ( ! weft is effect$ 9 a cross$ %$1 ?us enabl+ m weft to be put 9 ?an 9 a s+le-lift1 :]e ! beat-up is done ) a clos$ %$4 ,?is beat+ up 9 a cross$ %$ also spreads ! w>p bett]1 & prev5ts ! re$ m>ks f %[+1 = ! same reason z 0 giv5 :5 ref]r+ to ! spread+ ( ! w>p 9 ! tappet loom4 ,9 silk weav+ a s+le-lift ma*9e has an advantage 9 imitat+ m closely h&-wov5 goods1 z h&-loom weav]s usually beat up 9 a clos$ %$4 ,?is causes ! weft to be put 9 /raight]--t is1 less wavy1 :i* is v desirable 9 silk fabrics4 ,! cause ( ?is diff]5ce 9 ! %$ :5 beat+ up 9 ! two k9ds ( looms w be und]/ood by foll[+ ! relative positions ( ! griffes & ! loom crank ?r\gh\t its revolution4 ,9 a s+le lift ! "t all[$ = op5+ & clos+ ! %$ mu/ be us$ to ! be/ advantage2 t is1 z mu* "t z possible mu/ be giv5 = ?is purpose4 ,on ?is acc\nt x is necess>y to pick ! mom5t ! slay is suffici5tly f> back to all[ ! %uttle to ent] ! %$--t is1 :5 ! slay is half-way back1 or ! crank at ! bottom c5tre4 ,! griffe is work$ by a crank on ! top %aft ( ! loom1 & !re is no actual dwell ( ! griffe or ( ! ends :5 ! %$ is op52 !re=e ! %$ mu/ be op5$ a little wid] ?an w\ld o!rwise be necess>y = all[+ ! %uttle to pass ?r\gh4 ,! %$ mu/ be suffici5tly op5 to all[ ! %uttle to ent] :5 ! loom crank is at ! bottom c5tre4 ,?is regulates ! tim+ ( ! o!r p>ts4 ,fig4 #aad w make ?is q pla94 ,! %$ mu/ be ne>ly fully op5 :5 ! crank is at ! bottom c5tre to all[ ! %uttle to ent]2 & :5 ! loom crank is at ,a ! griffe mu/ be ne>ly at ! top4 ,:5 ! crank is at ,b ! griffe w be at ! extreme top1 & :5 ! crank is at ! top c5tre1 or ,c1 ! griffe w be z ne> ! bottom z x 0 to ! top :5 ! loom crank 0 at ,a4 ,z 0 previ\sly po9t$ out1 ! griffe mu/ g fur!r d[n ?an ! hooks to all[ ano!r c>d to op]ate ! ne$les1 & !re=e x is :5 ! loom crank has arriv$ at ,c t ! knife is leav+ ! hooks re/+ on ! grate1 or bottom bo>d4 ,! griffe w be at ! extreme bottom :5 ! loom crank is at ,d1 & :5 ! griffe is up at ! hooks aga9 ! crank is at ! front c5tre1 or ,e4 ,?us ! %$ has ! fraction ( a revolution betwe5 ,b & ,c to close 91 & betwe5 ,e & ,b = op5+4 ,! %$ rema9s clos$ = ! qu>t] ( a revolution1 ,c to ,e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aad4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aae4 ,9 a d\ble-lift ! w>p is mu* m l5i5tly dealt )4 ,z we h said1 ! %$ mu/ be op5 = ! %uttle to ent] :5 ! loom crank is at ! bottom c5tre4 ,!re=e ! griffes %\ld be 9 _! extreme position--"o up & "o d[n--:5 ! crank is at ! bottom c5tre4 ,! tim+ ( ! p>ts 9 a d\ble-lift w be se5 at ,fig4 #aae4 ,! cranks t "w ! griffes are on ! bottom %aft1 :i* ( c\rse makes a revolution e two picks4 ,^! cranks w be p]p5dicul> :5 ! %$ is fully op52 !re=e :5 ! loom cranks are at ! bottom c5tre ! cranks :i* drive ! griffes mu/ be 9 ! position ,,ab4 ,if !y are s set !y w be 9 ! position ,,cd :5 ! loom crank rea*es ! back c5tre1 & 9 ! position ,,ef1 or horizontal1 :5 ! loom crank arrives at ! top c5tre1 :5 ! %$ w be clos$4 ,we h ?us a clos$ %$ :5 ! crank is at ! top c5tre1 z 9 a s+le-lift2 b 9 ?is case :5 ! %$ is clos$ ! griffes are mov+ quickly1 :]eas we h a qu>t] ( a revolution dwell aft] ! loom crank rea*es ! top c5tre 9 a s+le-lift4 ,?is causes1 z we %all see1 a diff]5ce 9 ! %$ :5 ! slay beats-up1 or is at ! front c5tre4 ,:5 ! griffe cranks are 9 ! position ,,gh1 ! loom crank w be at ! front c5tre1 & ?us ! %$ w be p>tly op5$ = ! next pick :5 ! re$ comes 9 contact ) ! clo?4 ,jacqu>ds are made 9 v>i\s sizes4 #ajjs1 #bjjs1 #cjjs1 #djjs1 & #fjjs1 are ! mo/ common4 #ajjs are arrang$ 9 r[s ( f\r2 #bjjs & #djjs are 9 r[s ( eight2 #cjjs & #fjjs 9 r[s ( twelve4 ,!re are two di/9ct k9d ( h>ness m\nt+1 ! ,london & ,norwi* sy/ems4 ,9 ! =m] ! ,jacqu>d is plac$ ) ! n>r[ end t[>ds ! front ( ! loom1 ?us caus+ ! c>ds to fall at ! side4 ,9 ! ,norwi* sy/em1 or 8tie10 ! ma*9e is plac$ ) ! broad side fac+ ! front ( ! loom1 ?us caus+ ! c>ds to hang ei!r ov] ! weav]'s head or at ! back ( ! loom4 ,on ?is sy/em1 z !re are eight r[s 9 a ma*9e1 by tak+ ! comb] bo>d eight r[s deep ! h>ness becomes :at is call$ a /raight neck4 ,) ! ,london sy/em1 ! end ( ! ma*9e fac+ ! weav]1 !re mu/ be a twi/ 9 ea* patt]n 9 ! h>ness4 ,!re is n mu* to *oose betwe5 ! two sy/ems4 ,"s pref] ! ,london tie1 z !y say ! twi/ 9 ! h>ness causes ! h>ness ?reads to support ea* o!r1 & s la/ long]4 ,! ,norwi* sy/em is ! m common1 especially 9 ! cotton trade4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaf4 ,fig4 #aaf %[s ! me?od ( ty+ up ! h>ness on ! ,norwi* sy/em = a bord]$ fabric1 su* z h&k]*iefs4 ,9 ^! goods x is usually pref]r$ t bo? bord]s %\ld po9t inw>ds1 z 9 ! sket*es ,figs4 #aaf & #aag4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aag4 ,! hooks to :i* ! h>ness ?reads are atta*$ are numb]$ on ! l9e ,a1 & x w be se5 t ! draft beg9s 9 ! left-h& corn] at ! back ( ! comb]-bo>d1 ! l+oes be+ numb]$ 9 ! ord] ( ! draft4 ,! cords are ti$ up j z = an ord9>y /raight-ov] h>ness = ! fir/ #djj1 or "o full patt]n ( ! ma*9e1 b !n1 in/ead ( comm5c+ ) ! fir/ hook aga91 ! #bja/ l+oe is ti$ to ! #bja/ hook1 & ! second half ( ! patt]n is repeat$4 ,?is =ms ! middle ( ! h&k]*ief1 & x mu/ be repeat$ ov] a suffici5t numb] ( times to give ! requir$ wid? ( clo? aft] all[+ = ! trimm+ & bord]4 ,9 ,figs4 #aaf & #aag no?+ b a bord] & middle are %[n1 b sometimes a trimm+ ( ano!r small weave is requir$ outside ! bord]1 & ?is1 :i* is usually on a small numb] ( hooks1 is repeat$ ov] 9 ! same way z ! middle4 ,9 ,fig4 #aah only two repeats ( ! middle are %[n2 b suppos+ t ! h>ness _h #ajj ends p] in*1 & t ! h&k]*ief 0 requir$ to be tw5ty-f\r in*es wide exclud+ ! bord]1 !re w\ld be twelve repeats ( ! middle requir$4 ,:5 ! middle has be5 repeat$ ov] a suffici5t numb] ( times1 ! o!r bord] mu/ be ti$ up1 & to obta9 ! rev]se position ( ! figure ! draft mu/ be rev]s$4 ,by ty+ ! next l+oe to ! #bjj? hook1 & go+ backw>ds ) ! draft1 x c easily be se5 t ! same figure w be wov5 at ?is side ( ! h>ness z at ! opposite side2 ! only diff]5ce w be t ! figure w po9t to ! left1 z w also ! twill 9 ! gr\nd1 if x is a twill4 ,?is sy/em ( ty+ up is compulsory 9 ! ,norwi* sy/em1 z x is usual to keep ! h>ness /raight--t is1 ! h>ness ?reads f ea* ( ! eight r[s 9 ! ,jacqu>d ea* =m a sep>ate r[ 9 ! comb]-bo>d4 ,we h ?us eight r[s 9 ! ma*9e & eight r[s deep 9 ! comb]-bo>d1 & x w\ld n d to h a ?read tak5 f ! front ( ! comb]-bo>d at "o bord] & f ! back ( ! comb]-bo>d at ! o!r bord] to ! same hook4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aah4 ,if ! h>ness is a 8,london tie0 x necessitates a half-turn 9 ea* patt]n1 z ! ma*9e is at "r angles to ! comb]-bo>d4 ,!re=e ! draft may be cont9u\s1 z %[n at ,fig4 #aag1 :]e1 aft] ! middle has be5 repeat$ a suffici5t numb] ( times1 f9i%+ ) a ?read f ! #djj? hook at ! front ( ! comb]-bo>d1 ! next "o is tak5 f ! #bjj? hook ?r\gh ! back ( ! comb]-bo>d1 & ! bord] w f9i% ) a ?read f ! fir/ hook go+ ?r\gh a hole at ! front ( ! bo>d--j ! rev]se to ! o!r side4 ,bord]$ goods are (t5 made ) two bord]s at ea* side1 & sometimes ! bord]s are repeat$ a few times4 ,! numb] ( hooks tak5 = ! bord] & middle respectively v>y accord+ to requirem5ts4 ,sometimes1 9 a #djj ma*9e1 #cjj w be tak5 = ! bord] & #ajj = ! middle1 & s on4 ,! cross-bord] mu/ ( c\rse be design$1 & ! c>ds cut4 ,! numb] ( c>ds 9 a set 9 ^! goods is (t5 v l>ge1 z ! middle mu/ be repeat$ ov] ! requir$ numb] ( times1 & !re w be z _m c>ds us$ 9 ! set z !re are picks 9 ! h&k]*ief4 ,9 design+ = ! m\nt+ giv5 at ,fig4 #aag1 ! design w\ld be made on #djj ends3 #bjj = ! bord] & #bjj = ! middle1 & ! c>ds w\ld be cut j 9 ! ord9>y mann]4 ,! cross-bord] w\ld also be design$ 9 su* a mann] z to h>monize ) ! side bord]s4 ,! portion to be design$ is enclos$ by ! dott$ l9es4 ,c5tre ties or po9t ties are ano!r class ( h>ness 9 regul> use4 ,?is is really ! two bord]s ( a bord]$ h>ness jo9$ toge!r4 ,fig4 #aah %[s h[ ! ty+ up is done = a patt]n ( ?is k9d4 ,! fir/ #djj ?reads are connect$ z usual1 ! draft be+ f back to front4 ,:5 ! #djj? has be5 rea*$1 ! draft is rev]s$ until ,no4 #a is arriv$ at aga94 ,! same effect is obta9$ z 9 a po9t ( ,v draft 9 a %aft h>ness4 ,! patt]n mu/ be ( su* a "* t "o half is ! exact rev]se ( ! o!r4 ,?is k9d ( h>ness is us$ = weav+ l>ge damask figures1 & x is obvi\s t ! effect produc$ is really t ( a figure on #hjj ends1 or twice ! size ( ! ma*9e4 ,designs ( ?is "* are ( c\rse r /iff1 b are suitable = damasks1 & simil> fabrics4 ,,cross-,,bord] ,,jacqu>ds4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aai4 ,! object ( a cross-bord] ,jacqu>d is to save ! exp5se ( c>ds 9 h&k]*iefs & o!r bord]$ goods4 ,z po9t$ out previ\sly1 ! portion ( ! h&k]*ief betwe5 ! two cross-bord]s is usually repeat$ ov] = a consid]able numb] ( times1 (t5 f twelve to tw5ty times4 ,?is (t5 means us+ a few ?\s& c>ds1 :i* might be sav$ if ! bord] & middle c>ds c\ld be lac$ sep>ately & *ang$ automatically4 ,on ! h&-loom x is usual = ! weav] to *ange ! c>ds by h& :5 requir$1 sub/itut+ ! bord] = ! middle c>ds & vice v]s1 b 9 ! p[]-loom ?is is ( c\rse out ( ! "q1 & usually ! total numb] ( picks 9 ! h&k]*ief h ea* a sep>ate c>d4 ,! cross-bord] ma*9e illu/rat$ at ,figs4 #aai & #abj is ! inv5tion ( ,messrs4 ,crossley & ,dav5port4 ,! ma*9e is d\ble-lift1 z w be se5 f ! connection ( ! neck-cords4 ,! bord] c>ds are put on "o cyl9d]1 ,b1 & ! middle c>ds on ano!r1 ,a4 ,:5 ! cyl9d] ,a presses back a ne$le1 say ! top ne$le ,c1 x w press back ! pair ( hooks ,,ef1 z 9 an ord9>y d\ble-lift s+le-cyl9d] ma*9e1 & z long z ?is cyl9d] is work$ e pick ! ma*9e is to all int5ts & purposes a d\ble-lift s+le-cyl9d] ma*9e4 ,:5 ?is cyl9d] is /opp$ & ! cyl9d] ,b is work$ e pick1 ! c>ds on ! cyl9d] ,b h exactly ! same effect on ! ends z ^? on cyl9d] ,a2 = :5 ! top ne$le 9 ?is set ( ne$les is press$ back1 x w =ce backw>d ! pair ( hooks ,,ef1 exactly z op]at+ ne$le ,c by ! o!r cyl9d] did4 ,only "o spr+-box is us$1 z ! upright wires ,,mm pass ?r\gh loops1 ,p1 9 ! long ne$les1 & small iron b>s1 ,,hh1 act z fulcra = ! wires ,,mm4 ,! tops ( ^! wires are fa/5$ to ! %ort ne$les ,n1 z indicat$ 9 ! diagram1 & ?us :5 ! ne$le ,n is press$ back x moves ! ne$le ,c 9 ! opposite direction & op]ates ! hooks ,,ef4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abj4 ,! cyl9d]s c be *ang$ by pull+ ! cord ,l 9 ,fig4 #abj4 ,:5 ! p>ts are 9 ! position %[n 9 ?is illu/ration1 ! cyl9d] ,a w be press$ aga9/ ! ne$les e pick4 ,! cyl9d]s are driv5 f ! crank %aft1 ! rod ,x goes to ! crank %aft1 & a reciprocat+ motion is giv5 to ! ,l lev] ,,cd c5tr$ at ,e4 ,! rock+ lev] ,,fg is c5tr$ at ,k1 & ! reciprocat+ motion is transf]r$ f ,,cd to ,,fg4 ,x w be se5 t "o end ( ! lev] ,,fg is 9 ! diagram inside ! b5d 9 ! slot on ,m1 & ! o!r end ( ! lev] ,,fg is 9 a position to move ab\t its c5tre1 ,k1 )\t mov+ ! cyl9d] ,b4 ,?us z ! crank %aft ( ! loom revolves x w give motion to ! cyl9d] ,a1 b n to ,b4 ,by pull+ ! cord ,l1 h[ev]1 ! b5d on ! slot on ,n takes hold ( ! top ( ! rock+ lev] ,g1 & at ! same "t1 ?r\gh ! lev] ,,sr1 ,m is lift$1 & ! end ,f ( ! rock+ lev] moves freely 9 ! slot )\t mov+ ! cyl9d] ,a4 ,! disadvantage ( ?is motion is t ! *ange is n made f ! c>ds automatically1 c]ta9ly n an impossible piece ( me*anism to contrive4 ,!re are o!r cross-bord] motions1 b ?is is only giv5 z an example4 ,,d\ble-,,%$ ,,jacqu>d4 ,d\ble-%$ ,jacqu>ds are us$ *iefly 9 weav+ heavy goods :]e a v l>ge & deep %uttle is requir$ to hold a reasonable quantity ( weft4 ,! pr9ciple ( ?is ma*9e w be easily und]/ood f ,fig4 #aba4 ,a is connect$ to ! crank %aft ( ! loom & moves ! end ( ! lev] ,,bc up & d[n1 ! fulcrum ( ! lev] be+ at ,e4 ,! bottom bo>d or plate ,f is !re=e mov$ up & d[n1 & 9 do+ s ! griffe ,g is made to move oppositely1 ! bottom plate com+ d[n z ! griffe goes up1 & vice v]s4 ,?is is effect$ by ! top lev]s ,,pr & ,,qs1 :i* are c5tr$ at ,o4 ,"o end ( ! griffe is connect$ to ,q1 ! o!r end ( ! griffe is connect$ to ,p4 ,?is gives firmness & /r5g? to ! ma*9e4 ,^! ,jacqu>ds are usually made v heavy1 z !y are *iefly = heavy "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aba4 ,only a few hooks are %[n z an example1 b ! ma*9es c be made any size4 ,:5 all ! hooks are re/+ on ! bottom bo>d1 :i* w be :5 ! bottom plate is at ! top ( its /roke1 ! c>d is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les & selects ! hooks to be lift$ 9 ! usual mann]1 aft] :i* ! griffe rises z ! bottom bo>d s9ks4 ,?us an extra deep %$ is produc$ )\t ! griffe hav+ s f> to lift z w\ld o!rwise be ! case4 ,! %$ produc$ is a c5tre %$1 all ! ends com+ to ! c5tre e pick4 8,,op5-,,%$0 ,,jacqu>d4 ,sev]al op5-%$ ,jacqu>ds h be5 pat5t$4 ,t ( ,wilk9son's is illu/rat$ at ,figs4 #abb & #abc4 ,a & ,b are a pair ( hooks1 :i* are connect$ by a cord pass+ r\nd a pulley1 ,w4 ,?is pulley works on a p9 at "o end ( ! ?9 plate ,c1 & at ! o!r end ( ! plate is ano!r pulley1 ,x4 ,! neck cord ,e passes r\nd ?is pulley to ! b> ,d1 to :i* x is fa/5$4 ,x is obvi\s t :5 "o hook ( ! pair is lift$1 say1 #d in*es1 & ! o!r is at ! bottom1 ! pulley ,w w be lift$ #b in*es2 & z ! cord ,e is fa/ to ,d1 ! h>ness ?reads w be lift$ #d in*es1 ! same z ! hook4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abc4 ,if "o hook ( ! pair is lift$ & x is requir$ to keep ! same ends ( w>p up = ! next picks1 ! hooks be+ connect$ r\nd ! pulley ,w1 "o hook go+ up z ! o!r comes d[n w keep ! h>ness cords /ation>y1 & ! hooks ,a & ,b c be lift$ alt]nately "o up1 "o d[n1 )\t mov+ ! cord ,e1 :i* w all ! "t be keep+ ! w>p ends up4 ,! %$ ?us obta9$ is simil> to t 9 a ,keighley dobby2 ! ends1 :5 once !y are lift$1 /ay 9 t position until !y are requir$ to come d[n4 ,! pr9ciple c be appli$ to ei!r d\ble-lift s+le-cyl9d] or d\ble-lift d\ble-cyl9d] ma*9es4 ,ano!r view ( ! pulleys is %[n at ,fig4 #abc1 :]e ! pulleys & o!r p>ts are lett]$ z 9 ! previ\s figure4 ,ea* pair ( hooks 9 ! ma*9e has ^! pulleys atta*$1 & !re=e x w be und]/ood t ! pulleys mu/ be r ?9 9 ord] to enable !m to be plac$ 9 a space equal to ! size ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e4 ,! advantage :i* a satisfactory ma*9e on ?is pr9ciple w\ld possess lies 9 ! fact t ! j]k :i* occurs 9 ord9>y d\ble-lifts :5 ! weight is pass+ f "o hook to ano!r 9 ea* pair is done away )4 ,?is j]k causes breakage ( ! neck cords1 & _m ef=ts to ov]come ! annoyance h be5 made4 ,?is pr9ciple ( op5 %$ may be appli$ to dobbies su* z ! ,blackburn dobby4 ,,! ,,split ,,h>ness4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abd4 ,! split h>ness is an +5i\s me?od ( increas+ ! size ( patt]n :i* c be wov5 on a giv5 ,jacqu>d4 ,:at is t]m$ a 8d\ble-scale0 split h>ness consi/s ( two adjac5t l+oes be+ connect$ to ea* hook 9 ! ma*9e4 ,?us ) a #djjs ma*9e !re are #hjj mails 9 a patt]n4 ,a few l+oes are %[n at ,fig4 #abd ti$ up 9 ! mann] ( a d\ble-scale h>ness4 ,! connections to f\r hooks are %[n4 ,und]nea? ! comb]-bo>d a loop is made 9 ! h>ness ?read1 & %afts ,,ss1 ei!r wood or metal1 are ins]t$ ?r\gh ! loops 9 ea* r[ 9 ! h>ness4 ,^! %afts are work$ by ! sp>e hooks 9 ! ma*9e1 & 9 ! places :]e ! ends are left d[n by ! ,jacqu>d1 ! %afts1 be+ lift$ to a giv5 gr\nd patt]n1 w weave ! ends s+ly4 ,9 ,fig4 #abd ! %afts are %[n lift$ to weave a pla9 or tabby gr\nd1 e alt]nate "o be+ lift$4 ,hooks ,no4 #a & ,no4 #b are lift$ by ! ,jacqu>d1 & hooks #c & #d are left d[n1 & x w be se5 t :]e ! hooks are d[n1 half ! ends w be lift$ by ! %afts4 ,! ends1 :5 lift$ by ! ,jacqu>d1 _c be wov5 sep>ately ) ?is h>ness1 & !re=e ! b9d+s 9 ! figure w %[ 9 twos1 :i*1 unless ! h>ness is a f9e "o1 has a t5d5cy to make ! clo? appe> co>se4 ,sat9 or twill gr\nds may be wov54 ,9 fact1 ! ends left d[n by ! ,jacqu>d may be wov5 s+ly to any patt]n :i* repeats on ! numb] ( %afts us$1 or into ! numb] ( r[s :i* ! h>ness is deep 9 ! comb]-bo>d4 ,( c\rse ei!r ! figure or ! gr\nd may be wov5 s+ly1 accord+ to ! way ! patt]n is design$1 b n bo?4 ,9 silk weav+1 h>nesses are built on ?is pr9ciple to a ?reefold scale--t is1 ) ?ree mails atta*$ to ea* hook--& z 9 ! d\ble-scale a figure repeat+ on #hjj ends c be wov5 on a #djjs ma*9e1 s ) a ?reefold scale a #abjj figure c be wov5 on a #djjs ma*9e4 ,9 ?is case ! b9d+s 9 ! figure w be 9 ?rees1 b ! gr\nd ends may be wov5 q s+ly by ! %afts4 ,?is pr9ciple is only adapt$ = v f9e re$s 9 cotton goods1 b is (t5 us$ 9 silk manufacture1 :]e #cjj or #djj ?reads p] in* are n uncommon4 ,,! ,,pressure ,,h>ness4 ,! pressure h>ness 0 inv5t$ ) ! object ( enabl+ v l>ge figures to be wov5 on ord9>y siz$ ,jacqu>d ma*9es4 ,9 v f9e silk damasks--say1 ) ab\t #djj ?reads p] in*--a v l>ge ma*9e 7or ma*9es7 is necess>y to obta9 a figure suitable = damask on ! ord9>y pr9ciple4 ,! pressure h>ness ov]comes ?is difficulty 9 a mo/ +5i\s mann]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abe4 ,! me?od orig9ally us$ consi/$ 9 draw+ a numb] ( ends 9 ea* mail1 & !n draw+ ea* end sep>ately ?r\gh a %aft 9 front ( ! h>ness4 ,^! %afts _h long eyes1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #abe2 9 fact1 ! eyes are l>ge en\gh to p]mit ( ! %$ be+ op5$ )\t _! int]f]+ ) x4 ,9 ,fig4 #abe two ( ! ,jacqu>d l+oes are %[n1 ,a1 repres5t+ ^? lift$ by ! ,jacqu>d1 & ,b1 ^? left d[n4 ,!re may be any numb] ( ends 9 ea* mail1 say five4 ,aft] be+ drawn ?r\gh ! ,jacqu>d h>ness 9 fives1 ! ends are drawn s+ly ?r\gh ! %aft h>ness 9 front4 ,^! %afts are ei!r work$ by treadles or by a ,jacqu>d4 ,9 ! diagram !y are %[n work$ 9 ! latt] mann]4 ,a small pulley is plac$ betwe5 ! hooks & ! %afts1 & ea* %aft is connect$ to two hooks1 a cord f "o hook pass+ r\nd ! pulley to ! o!r hook4 ,:5 bo? hooks are lift$1 ! %aft w be lift$ to ! top1 l ! %aft #a2 :5 only "o hook ( ! pair is lift$1 ! %aft w be tak5 up half way1 l ! %afts ,nos4 #b1 #d1 & #e2 & :5 bo? hooks are left d[n1 ! %aft is left at ! bottom1 l ! %aft ,no4 #c 9 ! diagram4 ,^! %afts require to be work$ by a ma*9e ) d\ble ! lift ( ! ,jacqu>d ma*9e beh9d !m1 z f bottom to top ! lift is twice ! size ( ! %$4 ,!y may also be work$ on ! c5tre %$ pr9ciple1 "o %aft go+ up & ano!r "o go+ d[n f ! c5tre ea* pick4 ,if "o ( ^! %afts is lift$ to ! top1 l %aft ,no4 #a1 x is obvi\s t x w take up "o end out ( e mail left d[n1 & by lift+ ! %afts 9 sat9 ord] ! ends left d[n by ! ,jacqu>d 9 fives w\ld be wov5 s+ly five %aft sat94 ,by leav+ "o %aft d[n e pick1 ! ends lift$ by ! ,jacqu>d w be split up 9 ! same mann]4 ,s t ) "o %aft at ! top1 "o at ! bottom1 & ! o!r ?ree lift$ half way1 a figure repeat+ on #bjjj ends c be wov5 on a #djjs ,jacqu>d1 e end be+ wov5 s+ly 9 bo? ! gr\nd & ! figure4 ,( c\rse only simple weaves c be us$1 & ! figure w move 9 /eps r\nd ! edges4 ,if x is requir$ to weave an eight %aft weft sat9 figure on an eight %aft w>p sat9 gr\nd1 eight %afts mu/ be us$ in/ead ( five4 ,! ends may /ill rema9 five 9 a mail1 z x is n necess>y t ! numb] ( ends 9 ea* mail %\ld be ! same z ! numb] ( %afts us$4 ,^! %afts are call$ pressure healds2 h5ce ! "n giv5 to ! h>ness4 ,9 design+ = ?is class ( h>ness ! figure is put on po9t pap] 9 simple col\r1 no b9d+ dots be+ us$1 z ! b9d+ is all done by ! pressure healds4 ,! me?od ( putt+ d[n ! plan = lift+ ! healds1 & ( devis+ a v>iety ( weaves = pressure h>ness weav+1 w be f\nd fully expla9$ 9 ,*apt] ,x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abf4 ,ano!r & bett] k9d ( pressure h>ness is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #abf4 ,in/ead ( healds ) long eyes1 two sets )\t eyes are us$1 b ) a simple clasp 9 ! middle4 ,fig4 #abf %[s ! m\nt+ = a five end sat9 figure on a five end sat9 gr\nd1 & two l+oes only ( ! ,jacqu>d are %[n1 ,o repres5t+ ! lift$ hooks1 & ,p ! hooks left d[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abg4 ,!re may be five1 six1 eight1 or m ends 9 ea* mail1 & !y are drawn s+ly into ! pressure healds 9 front 9 ! foll[+ mann]3--,!re are two sets ( healds ) clasps1 z %[n at ,fig4 #abg4 ,ea* end is drawn s+ly ov] a clasp 9 ! set ,a1 & "u a clasp 9 ! set ,b4 ,! clasps 9 ! set ,a are fix$ at ! bottom ( ! %$1 & ! clasps 9 ,b are fix$ at ! top ( ! %$4 ,by pull+ "o ( ! set ,b d[n & lift+ "o ( ! set ,a e pick 9 sat9 ord]1 ! ends lift$ 9 fives or sixes are wov5 s+ly 9 w>p sat91 & ! ends left d[n 9 fives or sixes are wov5 s+ly 9 weft sat94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abh4 ,! me?od ( op]at+ ! pressure healds 9 a h& loom is %[n at ,fig4 #abh4 ,! %afts 9 set ,b are pull$ d[n by lift+ ! end ,e ( ! lev]s ,,ef1 & ! same on ! o!r side4 ,! %afts 9 ! set ,a are lift$ directly by ! hooks4 ,! %afts are lift$ by a few sp>e hooks 9 ! ,jacqu>d4 ,sometimes ! ,jacqu>ds h ?ree or f\r r[s ( extra hooks = ?is purpose1 & ^! hooks are plac$ a little to "o end ( ! ma*9e1 & a small sep>ate cyl9d] is us$4 ,! c>ds = lift+ or pull+ ! pressure healds are put on ?is cyl9d]1 & ! l>ge cyl9d] c>ry+ ! figure c>ds is only turn$ r\nd once e few picks by arrang+ ! cat*es to d ?is4 ,! same c>d is ?us br\ght aga9/ ! ne$les sev]al times 9 succession1 & ! small] cyl9d] be+ turn$ e pick1 int]weaves ! ?reads 9 sat9 or ! requir$ ord]4 ,?is w =m /eps at ! edges ( ! figure 9 ! weft way z well z w>p way1 & is a consid]able sav+ ( c>ds4 ,! weights ,m are to pull ! healds ,b up1 & ! weights ,n to keep ! healds ,a d[n4 ,spr+s may be us$ 9 _! place1 b weights are pref]r$ 9 ! h& loom4 ,! mails us$ 9 ! ,jacqu>d h>ness are made ) a sep>ate hole = ea* end4 ,sometimes z _m z twelve or sixte5 ends are drawn 9 ea* mail1 ?us giv+ 9 ! latt] case a #fdjj end figure f a #djjs ma*9e1 s t ) #cjj ends p] in* ! figure w\ld measure ov] #bj in*es wide4 ,,edle/on ,,h>ness4 ,a me?od ( weav+ an #hjj figure on a #djj d\ble-lift ma*9e has be5 pat5t$ by ,james ,edle/on1 ( ,pre/on4 ,?is is a v useful & +5i\s idea1 z a float$ figure c be =m$1 & ! ma*9e rema9s a d\ble-lift1 ) all its advantages z reg>ds spe$4 ,c]ta9 limits are plac$ ^u ! weaves1 :i* c be employ$ = ! gr\nd or = develop+ ! figure1 b suffici5t scope is af=d$ = all practical purposes to make ! inv5tion a success4 ,an illu/ration is giv5 ( ?is h>ness at ,fig4 #abi4 ,! inv5tor gives no draw+ 9 8 specification1 b presumably ! illu/ration 7,fig4 #abi7 w repres5t 8 me?od2 at lea/1 x w effect ! same object4 ,"o r[ ( hooks ( a #djjs d\ble-lift s+le-cyl9d] ma*9e are %[n1 & x w be notic$ t ! hooks are n jo9$ toge!r by a neck cord z 9 ! ord9>y ma*9e1 b ! h>ness ?reads are tak5 s+ly f ea* hook z 9 a s+le-lift ma*9e4 ,! knives "w z 9 a d\ble-lift1 "o up1 "o d[n4 ,by cutt+ ! c>ds 9 a c]ta9 mann] ! :ole ( ! #hjj hooks may be op]at$ by ! #djj ne$les s z to produce ord9>y brocade or damask figures ) a repeat ( #hjj ends4 ,! same end _c be lift$ = two picks 9 succession1 z ! knives h to move up & d[n & "w oppositely2 b an end c be left d[n any odd numb] ( picks1 & a figure c ?us be =m$4 ,at ,fig4 #acj ! design = eight-end sat9 gr\nd is giv54 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t = eight ends !re are only f\r ne$les1 & !re=e ! lift+ dots mu/ be put on f\r ends on ! po9t pap]4 ,by c>efully comp>+ ?is design ) ! m\nt+ ( ! h>ness1 ! pr9ciple w be q cle>4 ,! design %[s a dot on ! fir/ & fif? ends on ! fir/ pick1 & !re=e a hole w be cut 9 ! c>d opposite ! fir/ & fif? ne$les4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abi4 ,suppose ! griffe ,a to be lift$ = ! fir/ pick1 x w lift ! fir/ & n9? ends4 ,! second c>d has holes opposite ! second & six? ne$les1 & :5 ! griffe ,b is lift$ = ! second pick1 x w lift ! f\r? & twelf? ends 9 ! w>p or l+oes 9 ! comb]-bo>d4 ,! ?ird c>d has holes opposite ! f\r? & eigh? ne$les1 & z on ! odd picks ! griffe ,a lifts1 x w lift ! sev5? & fifte5? ends 9 ! w>p4 ,if ?is is foll[$ out x w be f\nd t ! ends are lift$ 9 ! ord] #a #d1 #g #b1 #e #h1 #c #f1 or eight end sat9 is wov54 ,fig4 #aca %[s ! me?od ( putt+ ! dots on po9t pap] = f\r end twill 7"o & ?ree74 ,! pr9ciple is ! same z 9 ! prec$+ case1 & is v simple :5 und]/ood4 ,a hole opposite ! fir/ ne$le on ! fir/ pick causes ! fir/ end to be lift$1 & a hole opposite ! same ne$le = ! second pick causes ! second end to be lift$4 ,any figure c be put ^u ! clo?1 ) ! foll[+ limits z reg>ds ! b9d+s3 fir/ly1 an end _c be lift$ = two successive picks2 secondly1 e end mu/ be left d[n an odd numb] ( picks4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aca4 ,f ?is x w be se5 t a five end sat9 _c be wov51 nor c a weft figure be put on a w>p gr\nd4 ,pla9 gr\nds c be wov51 & cord gr\nds ( v>i\s k9ds are also suitable = ! h>ness4 ,,damask ,,or ,,twill+ ,,jacqu>ds4 ,^! ,jacqu>ds are n[ ext5sively us$ = weav+ l951 damasks1 & simil> fabrics1 & are us$ :]e pressure h>nesses 7 =m]ly us$4 ,! pressure h>ness puts a great /ra9 on ! w>p1 & requires a long] di/ance betwe5 ! clo? & ! w>p beam ?an is usually all[$ = 9 p[] looms2 !re=e mu* +5uity has be5 exp5d$ on ^! ,jacqu>ds ) ! view ( obta9+ a l>ge design )\t us+ sev]al ord9>y ,jacqu>ds above ea* loom1 ) ! accompany+ great exp5se 9 c>ds & o!r atta*m5ts4 ,! pr9ciple ( damask atta*m5ts & twill+ ,jacqu>ds is entirely diff]5t to ! pr9ciple ( ! pressure h>ness1 & = f9e silk fabrics :i* require a v l>ge ext5t ( patt]n & wov5 on ! h& loom1 ! pressure h>ness on ! pr9ciple %[n at ,fig4 #abf is n likely to be replac$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acc4 ,9 ! pressure h>ness a numb] ( w>p ?reads are plac$ 9 ea* mail1 ! numb] ( ?reads v>y+ f five to sixte52 b 9 ! twill+ ,jacqu>d only "o end is drawn 9 ea* mail1 & a sep>ate hook is requir$ = e end4 ,! advantage comes 9 mak+ ea* ne$le s]ve = sev]al hooks & 9 mak+ "o c>d s]ve = sev]al picks4 ,"o ( ! fir/ inv5tors ( ?is k9d ( ,jacqu>d 0 ,mr4 ,b>cr(t1 ( ,newry1 ,irel&1 & x has be5 improv$ s9ce by him & o!rs4 ,! pr9ciple is illu/rat$ at ,figs4 #acb & #acc4 ,!re may be any numb] ( hooks to ea* ne$le4 ,9 ! illu/ration !re are ?ree4 ,! ma*9e is necess>ily a s+le-lift1 ! griffe goes up & d[n e pick4 ,only two ne$les are %[n1 op]at+ six hooks4 ,:5 ! top ne$le is press$ back x w press back ! hooks #a1 #b1 & #c1 & :5 ! bottom ne$le is press$ back x w press back ! hooks #d1 #e1 & #f4 ,^! hooks are b5t at ! bottom z 9 ! diagram1 & a b> or rod ,a is pass$ ?r\gh ea* r[ ( hooks ! full l5g? ( ! ma*9e4 ,^! b>s ,a are lift$ by ! twill+ hooks1 %[n 9 ! diagram 9 dott$ l9e4 ,^! hooks are plac$ at ! sides ( ! ma*9e3 two hooks = ea* long r[ ( ! ord9>y hooks1 or "o = ea* end ( e b>1 ,a4 ,! blades ( ! griffe are movable ab\t ! c5tres ,,ee1 & at ea* end ( ! blades & imm$iately beh9d ea* twill+ hook 7dott$7 !re is a project+ piece1 ,p1 also %[n 9 a dott$ l9e 9 ! diagram4 ,n[1 :5 ! griffe is at ! bottom1 ! blades are op]at$ by a pegg$ b>rel1 & by turn+ ! blades "o at a "t out ( ! way ( ! hooks z ! blade ,m is turn$1 x is obvi\s t a :ole r[ ( hooks c be left d[n :i* w\ld o!rwise be lift$4 ,turn+ ! blade has also ano!r effect4 ,on ! front ( ! blade at ea* end1 z previ\sly po9t$ out1 is a project+ piece1 ,p1 & :5 ! blade is turn$1 ?is projection pu%es ! twill+ hook 9 front ( x 7dott$7 on to ! next blade ( ! griffe1 & ! twill+ hook is lift$4 ,! bottom ( ! twill+ hook is fa/5$ to ! end ( a b>1 ,a1 & ! b> is lift$1 ?us lift+ a :ole r[ ( hooks :i* w\ld o!rwise be left d[n4 ,9 ?is mann] x is obvi\s t by op]at+ ! blades ( ! griffe 9 regul> ord]1 ! figure c be wov5 w>p twill & ! gr\nd weft twill1 or vice v]s4 ,at ,fig4 #acc ! position ( ! six hooks is %[n aft] ! griffe is lift$4 ,x w be se5 t ! blank opposite ! top ne$le press$ ! fir/1 second1 & ?ird hooks back1 & !y w\ld all ?ree h be5 left d[n b = ! b> ,a be+ lift$4 ,! hole opposite ! bottom ne$le leaves ! f\r?1 fif?1 & six? hooks ov] ! griffe1 & !y w\ld all h be5 lift$ b = ! blade ,m be+ turn$1 :i* also caus$ ! b> ,a to be lift$4 ,x w be obvi\s t ! twill mu/ repeat on ! numb] ( b>s ,a1 or on ! numb] ( r[s ( hooks1 9 ! ma*9e1 exactly z 9 a split h>ness ! gr\nd weave mu/ repeat on ! numb] ( %afts or rods us$ "u ! comb] bo>d4 ,9 ^! ma*9es1 z 9 ! pressure h>ness1 ! same c>d is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les two1 ?ree1 or m times 9 succession1 s z to give a great ext5t ( patt]n ) a small numb] ( c>ds4 ,! numb] ( times a c>d is press$ aga9/ ! ne$les dep5ds on ! numb] ( hooks !re are to ea* ne$le1 & on ! relative am\nt ( w>p & weft 9 ! fabric4 ,if !re are ?ree hooks to a ne$le & ! same numb] ( picks z ends p] in*1 ! c>d %\ld be us$ ?ree times 9 succession1 b sometimes !re are m picks p] in* ?an ends1 9 :i* case ea* c>d %\ld be us$ (t5]2 & sometimes1 z 9 silk damasks1 !re are #djj or m w>p ?reads p] in* & #ajj picks1 & suppos+ !re 7 eight ?reads 9 a mail1 x w\ld make a /ep ( eight ends 9 ! w>p2 !re=e1 to make ! /eps 9 ! weft balance x w\ld be necess>y to br+ ! same c>d aga9/ ! ne$les only twice 9 succession4 ,fig4 #acd is ano!r arrangem5t = weav+ damask4 ,x is call$ a damask atta*m5t1 & 0 pat5t$ by ,ts*orn] & ,we94 ,its con/ruction diff]s f ord9>y twill+ ,jacqu>ds1 b ! pr9ciple is mu* ! same4 ,ea* ne$le is twi/$ r\nd sev]al hooks1 & ! knives are op]at$ sep>ately by cams at ! side ( ! ma*9e4 ,! illu/ration %[s "o ( ! knives left d[n1 leav+ d[n a r[ ( hooks :i* w\ld 9 ! ord9>y c\rse h be5 lift$1 & "o ( ! bottom lift]s is tak+ up a r[ ( hooks :i* w\ld 9 ! ord9>y c\rse h be5 left d[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acd4 ,! =ego+ are ! *ief k9ds ( ,jacqu>ds & h>nesses 7except l5os7 atta*$ !reto1 b !re are _m comb9ations ( %aft & ,jacqu>d or mail h>ness :i* ne$ n be m5tion$ 9 a book ( ?is size4 ,we may m5tion a sy/em1 sometimes call$ half h>ness1 9 :i* only half ! ends are drawn ?r\gh ! ,jacqu>d h>ness1 & ! o!r half ?r\gh %afts 9 front or beh9d4 ,a d\ble-siz$ figure may ?us be =m$4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,l5o ,,weav+ ,! ^w 8l5o0 has latt]ly become a g5]al t]m giv5 to all classes ( cross weav+4 ,orig9ally x _h a diff]5t mean+ to gauze1 b ! ^w is n[ (t5 appli$ to gauze z well z o!r fabrics wov5 ) d\ps4 ,a pure gauze fabric is "o 9 :i* ! cross+ ?read is br\ght up on "o side ( a /&>d end1 & up ! o!r side ( ! /&>d end on ! next pick4 ,fig4 #ace %[s h[ ! ?reads are int]lac$ 9 gauze weav+4 ,x w be se5 t ! weave repeats e two picks4 ,! cross+ end1 & ! end r\nd :i* x crosses1 mu/ be plac$ 9 "o d5t1 & if an end is made to cross r\nd a numb] ( ends !y mu/ all be 9 ! same d5t or split 9 ! re$1 z x is v obvi\s t an end _c be made to cross into ano!r d5t ) ! ord9>y d\p heald4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ace4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acg4 ,! end is made to cross f "o side to ! o!r by means ( a d\p heald4 ,^! healds consi/ ( an ord9>y heald ) an extra half1 g5]ally call$ a 8loose half0 or slip4 ,! me?od ( knitt+ ! d\p heald w be und]/ood f ,fig4 #acf4 ,x is obvi\s t :5 ! d\p is lift$ at ,a1 ! end conta9$ 9 ! d\p w be lift$ up on ! "r-h& side ( ! end ,e4 ,9 ord] to br+ ! same end up on ! left-h& side ( ,e1 ! ends are drawn ?r\gh ! healds1 z %[n at ,fig4 #acg4 ,!re are two ord9>y /aves1 & ! ends are drawn ?r\gh !m z = pla9 clo? ) two /aves4 ,!n ! end :i* is drawn ?r\gh ! fir/ /ave is cross$ "u ! end :i* is drawn ?r\gh ! second /ave1 & is !n drawn ?r\gh ! d\p 9 ! mann] %[n at ,fig4 #acf4 ,:5 ! d\p is lift$ x w lift ! cross+ end ,a up on ! "r-h& side ( ! /&>d end ,b2 b 9 ord] to d ?is easily ! end mu/ be slack5$4 ,?is is done by tak+ all ! cross+ ends ,a f ! w>p beam ov] a slack5+ rod or vibrator1 ,r2 ! o!r ends ( ! w>p ,b are tak5 ov] ! back re/ 9 ! ord9>y mann]4 ,! slack5] is usually 9 ! =m ( a lev]1 "o end ( :i* c be lift$ by ! dobby or :atev] %$d+ motion is us$1 & :5 ! dobby lifts "o end ( ! lev] ! rod is mov$ d[nw>d1 ?us slack5+ ! w>p :i* is drawn ov] ! rod4 ,:5ev] ! d\p is lift$ ! cross+ w>p mu/ be slack5$1 or x w\ld cause ! /&>d end ,b to be lift$1 z x is cross$ "u x4 ,9 ?is mann] :5 ! d\p is lift$ ! d\p end is br\ght up on ! "r ( ! end ,b4 ,9 ord] to br+ ! same end up on ! left ( ,b1 x is necess>y to lift ! fir/ /ave & ! loose half ( ! d\p4 ,! fir/ /ave naturally takes ! end up on ! left-h& side ( ,b1 b x is necess>y to lift ! loose half 9 ord] to let ! end g up on t side4 ,x is usual to %[ ! d\p by a d\ble l9e 9 ! draft1 ! front l9e always repres5t+ ! loose half4 ,! pegg+ plan or lift+ plan = ! healds is = l5o fabrics n usually %[n on po9t pap]1 al?\gh x may be1 j z easily z any o!r way4 ,! usual way is to rule horizontal l9es repres5t+ ! /aves & p]p5dicul> l9es repres5t+ ! picks1 & to put a _/ on ! %afts to be lift$ = ea* pick4 ,x is easy to d ?is by cont9u+ ! l9es :i* repres5t ! %aft 9 ! draft1 & to make ! pegg+ plan on ! same l9es by ! side ( ! draft1 z 9 ,fig4 #acg4 ,! two p]p5dicul> l9es "o & two repres5t ! picks1 & ! m>ks on ! fir/ pick are on ! loose half1 ! d\p1 & ! slack5]2 !re=e all ^! w h to be lift$4 7,x is usual to peg ! dobby to lift ! loose half along ) ! d\p to take ! /ra9 (f ! healds47 ,on ! second pick ! m>ks are on ! loose half & ! fir/ /ave1 !re=e ^! mu/ be lift$ = ! second pick4 ,) ! same draft z 9 ,fig4 #acg1 a consid]able v>iety ( patt]ns c be made ( a /yle kn[n z crossov] l5os4 ,?is /yle consi/s 9 weav+ a numb] ( picks pla91 & !n mak+ a cross ) ! end4 ,at ,fig4 #ach ! design draft & pegg+ plan are giv5 = a 8five & "o0 crossov] l5o4 ,f ! design x w be se5 t ! d\p is requir$ to be lift$ = ! fir/ pick1 & ! fir/ /ave & loose half = ! second pick1 ! second /ave = ! ?ird pick1 & s on4 ,?is lift+ is %[n 9 ! pegg+ plan at ! "r ( ! draft1 :]e on ! fir/ pick m>ks are put on ! d\p & loose half ! slack5]1 & on ! second pick on ! loose half & fir/ /ave1 & s on4 ,!re are 9 ?is patt]n six picks to ! r\nd4 ,! appe>ance ( ! clo? w be a b> ( five picks pla91 & !n a crank or op5 space1 9 ! middle ( :i* is a s+le pick2 ! crack is caus$ by ! cross+ ( ! ends4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ach4 ,9 gauzes & fabrics ( ?is description1 a ?9 op5 fabric 9 :i* ! ends w n fray or slide is ! object4 ,! nature ( ! weave enables a firm] fabric to be obta9$ ) a small] numb] ( ends & picks p] in* ?an 9 ord9>y weav+ :]e ! ?reads are n cross$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aci4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adj4 ,ano!r & q di/9ct effect is produc$ ) d\ps4 ,?is is commonly call$ 8lace0 or net1 & is (t5 comb9$ ) gauze or o!r 8op50 l5o effect 9 /ripes kn[n z 8lace & l5o /ripes40 ,?is lace effect is produc$ by mak+ a ?ick end =m a zigzag on ! pla9 gr\nd4 ,! int]lac+ ( ! ?reads 9 a simple lace or net /ripe is %[n at ,fig4 #aci4 ,a ?ick end1 ,a1 is br\ght up fir/ on "o side & !n on ! o!r side ( two pla9 or ne>ly pla9 ends1 ,b & ,c4 ,!re are t5 picks to ! r\nd1 & by ! side ( ?is d5t !re is ano!r ?ick end twi/+ 9 ! opposite direction1 fir/ up "o side1 & !n up ! o!r ( two m pla9 or ne>ly pla9 ends4 ,ea* ?ick end comes up = two picks at "o side & !n crosses "u & comes up on ! o!r side aft] an int]val ( ?ree picks1 & vice v]s4 ,! m>ks repres5t ! ends lift$4 ,by ! side ( ! lace !re are two pla9 ends %[n1 :i* repres5t ! unlimit$ numb] ( ends us$ = ! gr\nd ( ! fabric4 ,9 weav+ ?is patt]n ! draft & pegg+ giv5 at ,fig4 #adj w\ld be us$4 ,by c>efully foll[+ ! design ) ! draft & pegg+ plan ! pr9ciple w be easily ma/]$4 ,! arrangem5t ( ! %afts is r important4 ,! d\p is plac$ 9 front1 ! gr\nd /aves next1 & ! l5o or net /aves next4 ,x is immat]ial :e!r ! cross+ ends be tak5 ?r\gh ! fir/ /ave ( ! ?ree us$ = ! l5o1 or ! back "o--"s pref] "o way1 "s ano!r--b x is necess>y to get ! l5o /aves z f> back z possible to give ! ?read a bett] *ance ( cross+4 ,f\r /aves are tak5 = ! pla91 z 9 ord9>y weav+1 to prev5t ov]cr[d+4 ,! lift+ m>ks on ! pegg+ plan w be easily foll[$ if ! "o 9 ,fig4 #ach 0 und]/ood4 ,:]e ! fif? /ave is lift$ ! loose half is lift$ also1 & bo? ?ick ?reads come up on ! inside4 ,:]e ! d\p is lift$ ! slack5] is lift$ also1 & ! ends are br\ght up on ! outside z on ! six? & sev5? picks4 ,m w be said on ! arrangem5t ( %afts 9 ! *apt] deal+ ) designs = l5o4 ,! explanations on ! /ructure ( ! fabrics at ?is po9t are only = ! purpose ( enabl+ ! requirem5ts ( ! looms = weav+ !m to be und]/ood4 ,"s manufactur]s pref] to "w ) ! d\ps at ! top ( ! loom1 especially 9 weav+ net l5os4 ,9 ?is case ! cross+ end is cross$ ov] ! o!rs & slipp$ d[nw>ds4 ,x us$ to be consid]$ t gauze & l5os c\ld n be wov5 on d\ble-lift ma*9es4 ,9 o!r places ?an ,lanca%ire ?is idea prevails to-day to a great ext5t1 b ( c\rse ?is is a great mi/ake4 ,! simpl] k9ds ( l5os1 su* z pure gauze & crossov]s1 are sometimes wov5 on tappets1 :i* are1 ( c\rse1 d\ble-lift4 ,! tappets are ( ! ord9>y k9d1 drawn on ! same pr9ciple z describ$ e>li] 9 ?is book2 b ! tappet :i* op]ates ! /&>d ends is made to lift ! /aves halfway :5 ! d\p end is cross+4 ,tappets ( ?is k9d h be5 us$ = "s "t pa/1 & x is n surpris+ t ! same pr9ciple %\ld be appli$ to d\ble-lift dobbies4 ,in/ead ( draw+ ! tappets to lift ! /&>d ends half way or a little way to enable ! ends to cross easi]1 ! eas+ motion usually employ$ = dobbies is (t5 us$1 & ! tappets are ( ! ord9>y k9d4 ,9 a d\ble-lift dobby ! healds beg9 to lift = "o pick :5 ! healds :i* are up = ! previ\s pick beg9 to come d[n4 ,9 ! case ( ,fig4 #acg1 :5 ! d\p is lift$ = ! fir/ pick & beg9s to come d[n1 ! same end is be+ tak5 up ! o!r side ( ,b by ! /ave ,no4 #a be+ lift$4 ,if ! end ,b 7 n mov$ x w\ld v soon be brok5 by ! cross+ end be+ made to act 9 ?is saw-l mann] ^u x4 ,x is necess>y1 !re=e1 to lift ! end ,b ab\t halfway up at ! mom5t ! cross+ end beg9s to come d[n & to pass to ! o!r side ( ,b4 ,if ! end ,a has n to cross = ! next pick1 x w\ld n be necess>y to lift ! end ,b at all4 ,9 a s+le-lift ma*9e ! d\p w get to ! bottom be=e ! fir/ /ave beg9s to rise1 & !re=e !re w\ld be no difficulty 9 ! end cross+4 ,9 a d\ble-lift dobby ! /aves conta9+ ! ends r\nd :i* ! d\p ?read crosses are lift$ p>tly up e pick by a lev] work$ f ! crank arm ( ! loom4 ,?is eas+ motion or 8%ak]0 is %[n at ,fig4 #ada4 ,,ab is ! crank-arm1 & ! upright ,,cd is connect$ to ! crank-arm at ,c1 & to a lev] ,,ed at ,d4 ,,eg is ano!r lev] on ! rod ,e1 & ! healds :i* are to be lift$ half way are connect$ to ?is lev] at ,g1 z well z to ! jacks 9 ! dobby4 ,z ! crank revolves ! oscillation ( ! crank arm imp>ts a simil> movem5t to ! lev] ,,ed1 & to ! /aves :i* are connect$ to ,,eg4 ,?is motion comm5ces j at ! prop] "t4 ,( c\rse1 :5 ! crank-arm is lift+ ! healds1 ! cords connect+ ^! healds to ! dobby w be slack1 z indicat$ at ,fig4 #ada4 ,by ?us lift+ ! /&>d healds1 ! cross+ is greatly facilitat$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ada4 ,?is eas+ motion is n requir$ :]e !re is no cross+ ( ! end imm$iately1 z1 = in/ance1 9 ,fig4 #aci1 ! d\p end aft] be+ br\ght up on "o side is nev] requir$ up on ! o!r side on ! pick imm$iately succe$+1 !re=e ! end has "t to get d[n be=e be+ lift$ on ! o!r side & an eas+ motion is n requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adb4 ,! me?od ( slack5+ ! w>p :5 ! d\p lifts is %[n at ,fig4 #adb4 ,?is diagram %[s a two-d\p arrangem5t4 ,= gauze & simil> weaves x is n necess>y to h a sep>ate beam = ! cross+ w>p1 z "o end pulls ! o!r & ! take-up is ab\t ! same2 b = net l5os or laces aft] ! mann] ( ! fabric 9 ,fig4 #aci x is necess>y to h ! cross+ ends on a sep>ate beam1 z a great deal m 9 l5g? ( ?is w>p is requir$ ?an = ! pla94 ,sometimes sev]al beams are us$1 ! only limit be+ ! numb] :i* c be plac$ 9 a giv5 space4 ,at ,fig4 #adb ! cross+ w>p f ! bottom beam is tak5 ov] ! slack5+ rod ,a1 & ov] ! c>ri] ,e4 ,! cross+ w>p f ! top beam is tak5 "u ! slack5+ rod ,b4 ,a moves ab\t a c5tre ,d1 & ,b moves ab\t a c5tre ,c4 ,! slack5] ,b is connect$ to a jack 9 ! dobby by ! cord ,l1 & ! slack5] ,a is connect$ to ano!r jack by ! cord ,m4 ,:5 ei!r ,l or ,m is lift$1 ! w>p ov] its rod w be slack5$4 ,,full ,,cross ,,l5o4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adc4 ,a full cross may be made by tak+ ! d\p completely r\nd ! /&>d end1 z 9 ,fig4 #adc1 & alt]nately lift+ ! d\p & ! o!r end4 ,?is is a mu* m difficult weave ?an ord9>y l5o1 & is n mu* us$1 al?\gh x gives a v pleas+ effect :5 wov5 ) ?ick y>ns4 ,! weave repeats on two picks z 9 gauze1 b x is necess>y to use v /rong twi/ 9 ord] to be> ! /ra9 & friction unavoidable 9 ?is cross+4 ,,! ,,l5o ,,jacqu>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #add4 ,:]e figures are requir$ to be ?r[n up on a l5o gr\nd a ,jacqu>d m\nt+ is requir$4 ,x is possible to weave a pla9 figure on a gauze gr\nd ) an ord9>y ,jacqu>d h>ness & an ord9>y d\p /ave 9 front1 b ?is c only be done on a pure gauze gr\nd--t is1 "o end cross+ "o4 ,a pla9 figure on a gr\nd ( ?is k9d does n af=d a suffici5tly p[]ful contra/ to ! gr\nd4 ,x is necess>y 9 ord] to produce a really effici5t contra/ to h two ends cross+ two & weav+ sep>ately 9 ! pla94 ,a fabric ( ?is k9d is "o ( ! mo/ beautiful ( all fabrics1 & is rem>kably *eap & s]viceable 9 we>4 ,! me?od ( produc+ a pla9 figure on a gauze gr\nd ) "o d\p 9 front ( any ord9>y ,jacqu>d h>ness is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #add4 ,! ends are drawn ?r\gh ! ,jacqu>d z usual1 & are !n tak5 9 pairs & "o cross$ "u ! o!r1 ! cross+ end be+ tak5 ?r\gh ! d\p1 z %[n 9 ! diagram4 ,! cross+ end 9 ea* pair is m>k$ ,a4 ,we c n[ see h[ ei!r pla9 or gauze c be wov5 at w4 ,! d\p is lift$ = ! fir/ pick1 & ?is br+s all ! ends ,a up at ! "r h& side ( ends ,b 7see fir/ pick74 ,9 ! fir/ two d5ts ! ends ,a are lift$ aga9 by ! h>ness1 & ! loose half ( ! d\p be+ lift$ w enable ! ends ,a to cross to ! left side ( ! ends ,b4 ,! d\p is lift$ = ! ?ird pick1 & x is obvi\s t ?is w weave gauze ) ! fir/ two d5ts4 ,aft] ! d\p is lift$1 if ! end ,b is lift$ on ! next pick1 x w cause pla9 to be wov51 z w be se5 f ! diagram1 :]e ! ?ird & f\r? d5ts are weav+ pla9 :5 ! fir/ & second d5ts are weav+ gauze1 & vice v]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ade4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adf4 ,a prop] l5o h>ness is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #ade4 ,x is obvi\sly impossible ) ! arrangem5t giv5 at ,fig4 #add to weave a l5o ) two ends cross+ two 9 conjunction ) pla91 z !re w\ld require to be two ends 9 ea* eye 9 ! d\p1 & z ! d\p is lift$ e o!r pick1 x is impossible to *ange to pla9 f ! l5o4 ,to obta9 a figur$ l5o ( ?is description1 ea* d5t mu/ h a d\p to itself1 & ! d\ps mu/ be lift$ by ! hooks4 ,at ,fig4 #ade ! arrangem5t ( ! h>ness is %[n4 ,! ma*9e is a s+le lift1 & 9 ord] to obta9 a #djj end figure #fjj hooks are requir$4 ,^! are arrang$ 9 twelve r[s1 ! two front r[s be+ us$ = ! d\p h>ness1 ! two back r[s = ! slack5+ h>ness1 & ! eight middle r[s = ! gr\nd or figure h>ness4 ,= ! #fjj hooks only #ejj ne$les are us$1 ! d\p hook & its slack5+ hook be+ connect$ ) ! same ne$le4 ,! top & bottom ne$les are us$ = ! d\ps & slack5]s1 z %[n 9 ! diagram1 & ! eight middle r[s ( ne$les = ! gr\nd or figure h>ness4 ,! me?od ( draw+ ! w>p ?r\gh ! h>ness is %[n at ,fig4 #adf4 ,! two cross+ ends are drawn ?r\gh ! slack5+ h>ness1 & all ! ends are drawn ?r\gh ! gr\nd h>ness4 ,x is immat]ial :e!r ! draft is f back to front or front to back2 "s manufactur]s ( ^! goods draw ! ends f front to back4 ,( c\rse1 ?is mu/ be borne 9 m9d 9 design+ & cutt+ ! c>ds4 ,aft] be+ drawn ?r\gh ! gr\nd h>ness ! two cross+ ends are cross$ "u ! o!r two & drawn ?r\gh a d\p4 ,! mails 9 ! d\p l+oes are specially made to all[ ! ?read f ! slip to pass ?r\gh & back aga94 ,! %aft ,a 7,fig4 #ade7 is ! slip or loose half1 & s]ves = all ! d\ps4 ,! mails 9 ! slack5+ h>ness are plac$1 l[] d[n ?an ! o!r w>p1 & ^! mails hang betwe5 two rods1 ,b & ,c1 :i* are call$ ! 8bridge40 ,sometimes only "o rod is us$1 & ?is s]ves equally well4 ,a bett] %$ is =m$ by only lift+ ! slack5+ hooks half z mu* z ! o!r hooks1 & !re=e a special device is requir$ = giv+ only half ! lift to ^! hooks4 ,9 ! illu/ration1 ,fig4 #ade1 !re are two griffes1 ,e & ,h1 & ! griffe ,e is connect$ to ! lev] ,,gk at a po9t1 ,o1 ab\t midway betwe5 ! fulcrum ,g & ! po9t :]e ! griffe ,h is connect$ to ! lev]4 ,! fulcrum ,g is movable 9 a slot made = t purpose1 s t ! lift ( ,e c be alt]$ a little if desir$4 ,:5 ! griffe ,h is lift$ 9 ! ord9>y mann]1 x is obvi\s t ! griffe ,e w only be lift$ ab\t half way4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adg4 ,! usual me?od ( obta9+ ! half-lift1 :i* ?is inv5tion is int5d$ to supplant1 is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #adg4 ,?is me?od 0 inv5t$ by ! late ,mr4 ,tootal ,broadhur/1 & has be5 9 regul> use a long "t4 ,ea* ( ! slack5+ hooks lifts a lev] ,,cp1 c5tr$ at ,c1 ! slack5+ h>ness is ti$ to ^! lev]s ab\t midway betwe5 ,c & ,p1 & ?us ! mails are lift$ only ab\t half z mu* z ! hooks4 ,( c\rse1 9 ?is case all ! hooks 9 ! ma*9e are lift$ by "o griffe1 & !re=e ! slack5+ hooks are lift$ z f> z ! o!rs4 ,?is me?od s]ves its purpose v well1 b if any alt]ation is requir$ 9 ! lift ( ! slack5+ h>ness all ! lev]s h to be gone ?r\gh & alt]$ sep>ately1 :]eas 9 ! ,devoge ma*9e ! lift c be regulat$ to a nicety by mov+ ! fulcrum ,g & ! po9t ,o4 ,! slack5+ h>ness %\ld be plac$ f n9e in*es to a foot beh9d ! gr\nd h>ness4 ,! wire ,m1 9 ,fig4 #ade1 is = lift+ ! %aft ,a1 :i* is requir$ to be lift$ e pick4 ,! advantage ( us+ only "o ne$le = ! d\p & slack5+ hooks is t x prev5ts ! possibility ( ! slack5] be+ miss$ :5 ! d\p lifts1 z well z be+ a sav+ 9 c>ds4 ,by lift+ ! cross+ ends ) ! gr\nd h>ness = two or m picks1 foll[$ by lift+ ! same ends 9 ! d\p h>ness = a simil> numb] ( picks1 an op5 l5o fabric is produc$1 & a pla9 figure c be wov5 by lift+ ! gr\nd h>ness pla91 or a float$ figure c be =m$ exactly z ) an ord9>y ,jacqu>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adi4 ,! usual me?od ( putt+ ! design on po9t pap] = ^! ,jacqu>ds is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #adh4 ,9 ! plan eight ends ( l5o are %[n ) f\r picks 9 a %$2 & eight ends ( pla91 ( :i* ! figure is usually =m$1 are %[n4 ,! design on po9t pap] = ?is w\ld be z giv5 9 ,fig4 #adi4 ,ord9>y #h #h pap] is us$1 al?\gh !re are t5 r[s ( ne$les4 ,! c>d-cutt] cuts ! black squ>es opposite ! gr\nd h>ness ne$le1 & :]e ! circles come1 he cuts s z to lift ! d\p 9 ! next d5t4 ,?us 9 ! fir/ f\r c>ds = ,fig4 #adi1 ! c>d-cutt] w\ld cut opposite ! ?ird & f\r? ne$les 9 ! gr\nd h>ness1 & opposite ! d\p ne$le = ! next f\r ends4 ,! pla9 w\ld be cut 9 ! ord9>y mann] opposite ! gr\nd h>ness ne$les4 ,a l>g] design = ?is h>ness w be f\nd 9 ,*apt] ,x4 ,d\ble-lift ,jacqu>ds are n yet us$ beyond ! exp]im5tal =m1 z ! %ak+ _c be done z easily z 9 a dobby ) %afts1 b we h he>d ( ! ?+ be+ done by knott+ ! h>ness above ! comb] bo>d & lift+ ! bo>d a little :5 ! cross is be+ made4 ,messrs4 ,eccles1 ( ,pre/on1 "s ye>s ago obta9$ a pat5t = lift+ ! /&>d ends by means ( a ?ird knife or griffe4 ,! additional knife 0 giv5 half ! lift ( ! o!r two1 & its function 0 to lift ! /&>d ends half way :5 ! d\p ends 7 cross+ to ! o!r side4 ,?is w\ld1 no d\bt1 enable ! cross to be made ) ease 9 a d\ble-lift ,jacqu>d1 b ! pr9ciple is n likely to be a great success4 ,! d\ps 9 l5o ,jacqu>ds are v liable to we> out unless made ( v good mat]ial1 & "s exp]i5ce is necess>y be=e ! h>nesses are work$ satisfactorily4 ,an imitation ( ! fabric usually wov5 on ?is h>ness is sometimes made by mak+ "o end cross ?ree ends 9 ! l5o1 & weave pla9 9 ! figure4 ,?is c be done ) an ord9>y h>ness ) a d\p heald 9 front lift$ e o!r pick1 on ! same pr9ciple z 9 ,fig4 #add4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,t]ry ,,looms--,,c>d ,,cutt+--,,lappets ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aej4 ,t]ry looms are ext5sively us$ 9 ! cotton trade1 *iefly = weav+ t[els1 b (t5 = /rip$ dress & simil> fabrics :]e t]ry or loop pile is comb9$ ) o!r weaves4 ,! loops c be =m$ ei!r on "o side or bo? sides ( ! fabric1 b ! loop =m$ 9 ^! looms is n to be comp>$ ) real loop pile wov5 ov] wires1 z ! loops _c be =m$ ) ! same regul>ity4 ,!re are num]\s t]ry motions1 z !y are call$1 mo/ loom mak]s hav+ _! own speciality4 ,fig4 #aej is ! design = a good t]ry clo?4 ,x w be notic$ t ! second & f\r? ends are ! rev]se ( ea* o!r3 "o is up = f\r picks & d[n = "o1 & ! o!r is d[n = f\r picks & up = "o1 :il/ ! o!r two ends are ne>ly pla94 ,! fir/ & ?ird ends =m ! gr\nd1 & ! second & f\r? ends ! pile or loops4 ,!re are five picks to ! r\nd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aea4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aeb4 ,! gr\nd w>p is on a sep>ate beam to ! pile w>p1 ! latt] hav+ a special t5sion to let (f ! requir$ quantity to =m ! pile4 ,at ! second pick 9 ! patt]n1 j :]e ! pile w>p is b\nd1 ! re$ is made to beat fur!r up ?an on ! two prec$+ picks1 ?us =m+ a pile by s5d+ "o half ! pile ends to ! face & ! o!r half to ! back4 ,! re$ beats up to ! front = ! second1 ?ird1 & f\r? picks 9 ! patt]n1 z giv5 at ,fig4 #aej1 foll[+ :i* ! re$ is held back = two picks4 ,fig4 #aea is a good motion = mak+ ! re$ occupy ! two positions :5 beat+ up4 ,p repres5ts ! slay1 & a lev]1 ,a1 c5tr$ at ,d1 is s con/ruct$ t :5 ,a is pull$ d[n ! re$ is pu%$ =w>d4 ,! rod ,r is connect$ to a lev]1 ,m1 on a %aft1 ,n1 plac$ "u ! loom4 ,a rock+ motion is giv5 to ?is %aft by a box cam1 ,p1 five to ! r\nd 7,fig4 #aeb71 s %ap$ z to lift & depress ! lev] ,,qs = ! requir$ numb] ( picks4 ,?is cam is driv5 f ! pick+ %aft4 ,by pull+ ! rod ,r d[nw>ds ! re$ is mov$ =w>ds1 & ! rod w h to be kept d[n = ?ree picks & mov$ up = two picks1 s z to keep ! re$ 9 its front position = ?ree picks & a little way back = two4 ,! effect requir$ is really to l5g!n ! crank-arm at w1 & ! pr9ciple ( ! knuckle jo9t may be us$ 9 its simple/ =m--t is1 by hav+ ! crank-arm jo9t$ 9 ! middle & fix$ a little out ( a /raight l9e1 & by /raight5+ ! arm :5 ! front position ( ! slay is requir$4 ,! real loop pile is wov5 ov] wires4 ,! wires c be ins]t$ & pull$ out automatically by a p[]-loom1 b ! ri*e/ k9d ( pile is wov5 on ! h&-loom4 ,! /ructure ( ! fabric is %[n at ,fig4 #aec4 ,! pile end is br\ght up ov] a wire e two picks1 & :5 ! wire is pull$ out ! loops =m a spr+y pile1 :i* c be made to give beautiful effects 9 dress goods4 ,! pr9ciple is also us$ 9 ,brussels c>pets1 & simil> goods4 ,:]e figur$ fabrics are requir$ on ?is pr9ciple1 x is necess>y to h ea* pile end on a sep>ate bobb9 & weight$ sep>ately at ! back ( ! loom1 z ! take-up ( ea* end w\ld v>y s mu* 9 ! figure4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aec4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aed4 ,) cut pile ! wires are ei!r groov$1 z at ,fig4 #aed1 or ea* wire has a knife at ! end1 z at ,fig4 #aee1 & :5 ! wire is pull$ out x cuts ! pile4 ,! be/ pile is =m$ by ! groov$ wires1 z ! cutt+ wires are apt to drag ! pile4 ,:5 cut pile is be+ made1 ab\t f\r or five wires are con/antly 9 ! clo?1 =1 if ! wire 7 pull$ out imm$iately1 ! pile ends w\ld fall away f ! clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aee4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aef4 ,looms are made to weave two pieces ( plu% 7:i* is a long cut pile1 r long] ?an velvet pile7 9 "o loom simultane\sly1 "o piece above ! o!r1 aft] ! mann] %[n at ,fig4 #aef4 ,! pr9ciple is n us$ 9 cotton manufactures1 al?\gh x has be5 tri$4 ,x is *iefly us$ = silk plu%4 ,,c>d ,,cutt+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aeg4 ,! c>ds are usually cut f ! design on a ma*9e call$ a 8piano0 c>d-cutt]4 ,?is ma*9e consi/s ( a pun*-box 7,fig4 #aeg71 conta9+ ?irte5 pun*es1 twelve = cutt+ ! small] holes & "o = cutt+ ! peg holes 9 ! c>ds4 ,!re are eight 8keys0 beh9d ! pun*-box1 ea* ( :i* has a small spr+ r\nd x to spr+ x back to its orig9al position :5 ! f+] is tak5 (f x4 ,^! eight keys are us$ = cutt+ ! eight r[s ( holes 9 a #djj's c>d1 & = #fjj's c>ds1 ) twelve r[s ( holes1 ! f\r pun*es 9 front are us$4 ,! two pun*es 9 front at ! "r h& are op]at$ by ! ?umb on t h&1 & ! elev5? & twelf? are op]at$ by ! ?umb on ! left h&4 ,! eight keys beh9d are gov]n$ by ! f\r f+]s on ea* h&4 ,fig4 #aeh %[s ! effect ( pu%+ 9 "o ( ! keys4 ,! key is pu%$ ov] ! pun* ,k1 & z an up-&-d[n motion is giv5 to ! :ole pun*-box by means ( two treadles op]at$ by ! c>d-cutt]'s feet1 ! pun*es t are lock$ w cut holes 9 ! c>d4 ,:]e ! keys are n press$ 7see ,fig4 #aei7 !y d n act ^u ! pun*es1 & ! c>d is left blank accord+ly4 ,! c>d is clipp$ at ! numb]$ end by a clip on ! 8c>riage40 ,?is c>riage rec$es ) ! c>d = a space ( "o r[ ( holes e "t ! left treadle is press$ d[n4 ,! me?od ( cutt+ ! c>ds has already be5 expla9$ ) ,figs4 #ajh-aaj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aeh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aei4 ,if sev]al sets ( c>ds ( ! same patt]n are requir$1 a repeat+ ma*9e is us$4 ,9 ! h& repeat] ! c>ds are made to leave pun*es 9 a plate :]e !re are holes 9 ! c>d1 & ! plate is !n tak5 to a repeat+ press1 :]e any numb] ( c>ds c be cut l ! fir/ by apply+ pressure to ! plate1 :i* is done by pass+ x "u a roll] or :eel4 ,"s repeat+ ma*9es are capable ( repeat+ direct f "o set ( c>ds to ! o!r1 at ! rate ( ?irty or =ty c>ds p] m9ute4 ,! c>ds may be lac$ blank1 & kept 9 /ock ready = use :5 requir$1 :i* is a great advantage4 ,! ma*9e is built on ! ,jacqu>d pr9ciple1 & ! pun*es requir$ to cut are fa/5$1 :il/ ^? :i* are n requir$ to cut are tak5 out ( ! way ( ! c>d4 ,^! ma*9es are r co/ly1 b 9 l>ge fancy weav+ e/abli%m5ts !y soon repay _! co/4 ,,lappets4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afj4 ,lappet figures are =m$ by giv+ a horizontal motion to a ?ick end1 & mak+ x int]weave 9 ! mann] %[n at ,fig4 #afj4 ,! sy/em has long be5 us$ 9 h&-looms1 & x is n[ ext5sively us$ 9 p[]-looms1 especially 9 ,scotl&4 ,! figures are usually produc$ ) a v ?ick end ^u a f9e musl9 gr\nd1 & ! advantage x possesses ov] figur+ ) extra weft is t ! figur+ mat]ial does n require cutt+ (f e pick1 & !re=e !re is n ! same am\nt ( wa/e1 & 9 addition ! figures are m firmly b\nd into ! clo?4 ,only small solid spot figures c be wov51 z ! figur+ ?read _c be b\nd betwe5 ! extreme edges ( ! figure4 ,?is is ! *ief disadvantage ( ! pr9ciple1 & x is n to be comp>$ ) swivels = ! purpose ( produc+ intricate designs4 ,9 swivel weav+ ea* figur+ ?read is plac$ 9 a small %uttle1 :i* receives a horizontal motion by means ( a rack4 ,! small %uttles c be lift$ out (1 & dropp$ into1 ! w>p1 s z to all[ ! figur+ ?read to be pass$ ?r\gh ! %$ :]e ! spot is =m$1 & !re=e twill or sat91 & %ad$ effects1 c be =m$ 9 ! spot4 ,9 lappet weav+ ! floats _c be b\nd 9 ! middle4 ,! *ief advantage ( lappet weav+ is t x c easily & satisfactorily be appli$ to a p[]-loom4 ,swivels h be5 appli$ to p[]-looms1 b n yet ) entirely satisfactory results1 tak+ into consid]ation ! "q ( co/4 ,! pr9ciple ( ! lappet p[]-loom w be und]/ood f ,fig4 #afa4 ,9 front ( ! slay cap ! ne$le rack ,a is plac$1 ! ends re/+ 9 ! slots ,,bb1 & ?is is mov$ d[nw>ds by ! hook ,c be+ lift$ by ! treadle ,f at ! side ( ! loom4 ,! figur+ ?reads are tak5 f a sep>ate beam ?r\gh ! ne$les 9 ! rack1 & x w ?us be se5 t :5 ! rack is pull$ d[n ! figur+ ?reads w be at ! bottom ( ! %$4 ,:5 ! treadle ,f is =c$ d[n1 ! spr+s ,,pp pull ! rack back to its topmo/ position1 & :5 9 ?is position ! rack is pull$ to ! left by press+ d[n ! treadle ,d1 ! di/ance :i* ! rack c be mov$ be+ regulat$ by ! size ( ! groove 9 ! lappet :eel at t po9t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afa4 ,! lappet :eel ,g is a :eel ) rat*et tee?1 & is turn$ "o too? at a "t4 ,! groove 9 ! :eel is s %ap$ t ! rack c be pull$ sideways a great] or a less di/ance z desir$1 to =m a spot or figure4 ,! p9 ,n fits 9 ! groove1 & :5 ! treadle ,d is press$ d[n ! rack is pull$ to ! left z f> z ! groove w all[1 :5 ! spr+ ,s gives way until ! treadle rea*es ! bottom ( its /roke4 ,:5 ! treadle is releas$ ! spr+ ,k pulls back ! rack & treadle z f> z ! groove 9 ! :eel w all[ x4 ,! spr+ ,k is mu* weak] ?an ,s1 s t :5 ! treadle ,d is press$ d[n ! spr+ ,k gives way ! fir/4 ,! ne$le rack be+ 9 front ( ! ord9>y re$1 a 8false0 re$ is requir$ to guide ! %uttle across ! %$4 ,?is false re$ ,m is plac$ imm$iately beh9d ! %uttle race1 & x is lift$ e pick :5 ! %uttle is go+ across1 & dropp$ to make room = ! prop] re$ to beat up4 ,! treadle ,e is us$ = op]at+ ! false re$2 ! connection is %[n 9 ! diagram1 & :5 ! treadle is press$ d[n ! re$ is lift$4 ,at ,fig4 #afb a section is giv5 %[+ h[ ! ne$le rack receives a lat]al z well z a p]p5dicul> motion4 ,! slay-cap is cut squ>e1 & ! cov] ,c works loosely ^u x4 ,! ne$le rack ,a is pull$ d[n aga9/ ! spr+ ,s1 & ! cov] is pull$ sideways by ! b> atta*$ to ! cov] at ,o1 c>ry+ ! ne$le rack along ) x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afc4 ,! treadles are op]at$ by tappets1 & ^? op]at+ treadles ,e & ,f mu/ d s e pick1 :il/ ! treadle ,d only requires to be press$ d[n once e two picks1 because ! spr+ ,k pulls ! ne$le rack to ! "r4 ,! tappets are %[n at ,fig4 #afc1 :]e x w be se5 t :5 ! treadle ,e is d[n1 ,f is up1 & ! rack w be dropp$ & ! false re$ lift$2 & :5 ! treadle ,f is press$ d[n--lett+ ! rack be pull$ up by ! spr+s1 ! treadle ,d is press$ d[n1 :i* pulls ! rack to ! left z f> z ! groove 9 ! :eel w all[ x to move4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afe4 ,at ! back ( ! lappet :eel a face cam ,l 7,fig4 #afd7 acts ^u a lev]1 ,,mn1 c5tr$ at ,p1 & ! b5t arm ( ! lev] ,n pu%es ! hook ,c on to ! treadle ,f :5 ! spot figure is be+ =m$1 & :5 !re is no figur+ go+ on ! hook is pull$ out ( ! way ( ! treadle1 & s ! motion ( ! rack is /opp$4 ,! patt]n is =m$ by ! groove 9 ! lappet :eel 7,fig4 #afe71 & 9 draw+ ?is ! :eel is divid$ into z _m tee? z !re are picks 9 ! patt]n4 ,! :eel is usually made ( h>d wood1 & aft] be+ smoo!d (f a numb] ( circles are describ$1 ! di/ance betwe5 ea* be+ equal to "o d5t 9 ! re$4 ,suppose ! patt]n is a cont9u\s "o1 z at ,fig4 #aff1 ! picks %[n on pap] be+ 9 addition to ! gr\nd picks4 ,9 draw+ a :eel = ?is patt]n ! numb] ( tee? requir$ w be tw5ty-f\r1 z !re are ?is numb] ( picks 9 ! patt]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aff4 ,! patt]n ext5ds to sev5 d5ts1 & z ! p9 ,n 7,fig4 #afe7 occupies f\r d5ts1 x w be necess>y to h elev5 spaces1 ea* equal to a d5t1 9 ! groove4 ,! fir/ pick 9 ! patt]n floats ov] two d5ts or f\r ends1 & !re=e ! groove at ?is po9t mu/ be six spaces wide--f\r = ! p91 & two = ! space x has to move ?r\gh4 ,be=e ! next movem5t ( ! rack1 ! :eel w h be5 turn$ "o too?1 & at ?is po9t ! groove moves "o space fur!r to ! left4 ,= ! ?ird pick bo? sides ( ! groove are mov$ "o space to ! left1 & ! size ( ! float w rema9 ! same z 9 ! second pick1 b x w float ov] diff]5t ends4 ,! groove gradually gets wid] until ! t5? pick is rea*$1 :5 x n>r[s d[n aga9 until x repeats on ! tw5ty-f\r? pick4 ,if !re are two spots set 8"o & "o0 9 ! patt]n1 ! :eel requires "o too? m ?an ! picks 9 a repeat1 9 consequ5ce ( *ang+ f "o spot to ! o!r4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,automatic ,,weft-,,repl5i%+ ,,devices ,! hi/ory ( ! developm5t ( ! p[]-loom1 f its inception by ,dr4 ,c>twright1 has be5 writt5 on _m occasions4 ,t /ory relates h[ old me?ods h be5 improv$ or else displac$ by new ones ( great] effici5cy1 & h[ ! mod]n p[]-loom has1 by ! ef=t & skill ( ! pione]s ( indu/ry1 be5 br\ght gradually to its pres5t /ate ( me*anical p]fection4 ,?is m>* ( progress goes on /eadily1 cont9u\sly1 & almo/ imp]ceptibly to ^? :o are n imm$iately int]e/$ 9 or affect$ by ! *anges t are ?us wr\ght2 until by "s special circum/ance !y sudd5ly & unexpect$ly arre/ att5tion1 & x is realiz$ = ! fir/ "t t a new era has dawn$ & promises *anges ( great magnitude4 ,! adv5t1 n[ fifte5 ye>s ago1 ( :at are popul>ly describ$ z 8automatic looms0 m>k$ ! beg9n+ ( ev5ts ( consid]able importance to ! weav+ indu/ry 9 p>ticul>1 & to ! textile indu/ry 9 g5]al4 ,! ess5tial elem5t :i* di/+ui%es ^! looms f ^? ( ord9>y con/ruction consi/s ( special app>atus atta*$ to1 & =m+ an integral "p (1 ! looms1 :i* are !reby enabl$ to repl5i% weft automatically f a res]v$ supply conv5i5tly held 9 read9ess4 ,?is briefly con/itutes ! automatic elem5t ( ! looms4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 _m auxili>y atta*m5ts t are incid5tal to ! weft-repl5i%+ devices1 & :i* increase _! effici5cy & productiv5ess4 ,not)/&+ ! comp>atively %ort p]iod t has elaps$ s9ce ! adoption1 on a comm]cial scale1 ( ^! looms1 su* has be5 ! activity ( inv5tors & loom-mak]s bo? at home & abroad1 t looms ( ?is class h already be5 design$ 9 an almo/ endless v>iety ( =ms1 "s ( :i* diff] ess5tially 9 con/ruction & op]ation1 :il/ _m o!rs diff] only 9 m9or details ( con/ruction4 ,mo/ ( ^!1 h[ev]1 h nev] matur$ to practical =ms4 ,_m h nev] escap$ ! secret conf9es ( ! exp]im5t+ room4 ,o!rs h be5 doom$ to premature failure1 :il/ "s ?ree or f\r types ( real m]it are /ruggl+ h>d = supremacy4 ,:i* ( ! compet+ types w w91 ultimately1 is at ! pres5t "t matt] = conjecture4 ,?is w dep5d entirely on ! type t w be/ meet ! requirem5ts ( manufactur]s1 & ! "o t w endure ! te/ ( exp]i5ce & "t1 :i* alone c be ! decid+ factors4 ,b1 = c]ta9 classes ( fabrics = :i* !y are suitable1 x is safe to pr$ict t automatic looms ( "s approv$ type are p]man5tly e/abli%$ 9 ! trade4 ,:atev] p>ticul> "* ^! weft-repl5i%+ devices assume1 !y may be broadly classifi$ "u "o or o!r ( two di/9ct types1 namely1 7#a7 t 9 :i* ! same common %uttle is repl5i%$ ) cops or bobb9s ( weft2 & 7#b7 t 9 :i* a fre% %uttle replaces ! previ\s "o4 ,ea* ( ^! two broad divisions comprises num]\s modifications 9 bo? _! con/ruction & also 9 ! mann] 9 :i* !y op]ate4 ,( ! cop-or bobb9-*ang+ type ( loom1 ! 8,nor?rop0 loom1 inv5t$ 9 ,hop$ale1 ,mass41 ,u4,s4,a41 by ,james ,h4 ,nor?rop 7a native ( ,keighley1 ,yorks471 has ga9$ a great] measure ( success ?an t ( any o!r automatic loom2 & ( ! %uttle-*ang+ type1 ! 8,hatt]sley0 loom1 inv5t$ by ,simeon ,jackson1 ( ,geo4 ,hatt]sley & ,sons1 ,limit$1 ,keighley1 ,yorks41 has probably f\nd great] fav\r ?an o!rs ( t type4 ,looms ( ! ,nor?rop type require ess5tially ! use ( %uttles ( special con/ruction t are capable ( self-?read+ ! weft2 :]eas looms ( ! ,hatt]sley type may weave ) ! same k9d ( %uttles z ^? employ$ 9 ord9>y p[]-looms4 ,looms ( bo? types are con/ruct$ s t ! *ange ( weft is effect$ in/antane\sly :il/ !y are runn+ at full spe$1 )\t any loss ( "t2 b :5 a *ange ( weft takes place 9 ! ,hatt]sley modification ( ! %uttle-*ang+ type1 ! looms /op runn+ automatically = a few picks to all[ m "t = ! *ang+ ( %uttles1 aft] :i* ! looms re-/>t automatically & cont9ue runn+ at full spe$4 ,9 addition to ! ess5tial elem5ts con/itut+ a successful weft-repl5i%+ device1 ?is requires to be supplem5t$ by num]\s appliances ( a special "* to ensure ! g5]al effici5cy ( ! loom4 ,= example1 at t side ( ! loom on :i* ! repl5i%m5t ( weft is made1 !re is fix$ a weft-cutt+ device to sev] ! sup]flu\s trail ( weft close to ! selv$ge ( clo? aft] ! ins]tion ( ea* fre% supply ( weft4 ,9 "s looms ! weft is repl5i%$ only :5 ! previ\s supply fails ei!r by break+ or becom+ exhau/$2 & "s are furni%$ ) 8weft-feel]0 motions to put ! weft-*ang+ me*anism into op]ation & ?us repl5i% ! weft j be=e ! previ\s supply is entirely deplet$1 !reby prev5t+ brok5 or miss+ picks ( weft :i* w\ld produce faulty clo?4 ,a w>p-/op motion1 :i* is sometimes appli$ to ord9>y looms1 is an almo/ indisp5sable accessory to an automatic loom4 ,its function is to detect ! breakage ( w>p-ends1 & to /op ! loom automatically :5ev] t occurs4 ,^! rem>ks apply also to ! controll+ ( ! t5sion & deliv]y ( ! w>p1 :i* are sometimes effect$ automatically 9 looms ( any description4 ,up to ! pres5t "t weft-repl5i%+ devices are almo/ exclusively re/rict$ to s+le-box looms employ$ 9 ! production ( /&>d v>ieties ( fabrics ( comp>atively simple con/ruction1 & conta9+ b "o k9d ( weft requir+ ! use ( only "o %uttle4 ,^! devices h1 h[ev]1 be5 employ$ on *eck-looms weav+ ) m ?an "o k9d ( weft1 & !re=e requir+ ! use ( a correspond+ numb] ( %uttles at ! same "t2 b automatic *eck-looms h n yet pass$ ! exp]im5tal /age & become e/abli%$ on a comm]cial basis1 al?\gh !re are prospects ( ?is tak+ effect 9 ! ne> future4 ,hav+ ?us f> introduc$ ! read] to :at con/itutes ! *ief elem5ts ( an automatic or self-act+ loom1 x w1 at ?is /age1 & be=e exam9+ ! details ( _! special me*anism1 be bo? in/ructive & pr(itable to briefly survey ! "w ( pione]s 9 ?is sph]e ( inv5tion1 z reveal$ 9 ! records ( ! num]\s ,lett]s ,pat5t t h f "t to "t be5 grant$ = inv5tions ( devices = ! automatic repl5i%+ ( weft 9 looms1 & to trace ! orig9 & developm5t ( su* devices f ! e>lie/ au!ntically record$ date ( _! inception d[n to ! pres5t "t4 ,f a rese>* ( ! e>lie/ publi%$ records ( pat5ts relat+ to weav+1 :i* records date f #ae? ,july1 #afbj1 x w\ld appe> t ! cr$it = ! fir/ pat5t = an automatic weft-repl5i%+ device = looms is due to ,messrs4 ,john ,pat]son ,reid & ,?omas ,johnson1 bo? ( ,glasg[1 :o are ! jo9t pat5tees ( an inv5tion ( su* a device describ$ 9 ! ,pat5t ,specification1 dat$ #bj? ,m>*1 #ahcd1 ,no4 #fegi4 ,?is is a l>ge docum5t ( #fi pages ( text compris+ ov] #ce1jjj words & #ab %eets ( diagrams4 ,x describes 9 a v lucid mann] sev]al improvem5ts 9 p[]-looms1 ( :i* t relat+ to ! automatic repl5i%+ ( weft is treat$ almo/ z if x 7 reg>d$1 by ! inv5tors1 z ( only second>y importance to ! o!r improvem5ts :i* !y describe4 ,9 view ( ! great progress :i* has be5 made )9 rec5t ye>s 9 ! developm5t ( ^! looms1 & also 9 consid]ation ( ! fact t a pat5t1 :i* 0 grant$ to ,*>les ,p>k] ne>ly sev5 ye>s subsequ5tly1 & is describ$ 9 ! ,specification dat$ #bbnd ,octob]1 #ahdj1 ,no4 #hffd1 has be5 frequ5tly cit$ z ! fir/ pat5t relat+ to ! automatic supply ( weft 9 looms1 ! fir/-nam$ docum5t acquires a special int]e/1 n only z a record ( :at is probably ! fir/ attempt 9 t direction1 b also because x e/abli%es1 beyond refutation1 ! date & rightful title to ! fir/ pat5t grant$ = su* an inv5tion4 ,9 ! =m] specification1 ! pat5tees /ate t _! improvem5ts are applicable to :at 7 !n kn[n z ,johnson's v]tical p[]-looms1 9 :i* ! w>ps 7 ext5d$ v]tically f ! w>p-beam at ! bottom to ! clo?-roll] at ! top ( ! loom2 & ! re$1 :i* s]v$ z ! %uttle-race dur+ ! flight ( ! %uttle ?r\gh ! w>p-%$1 mov$ 9 a v]tical plane :5 beat+ up ! weft4 ,^! v]tical looms 7 made d\ble1 to p]mit ( two pieces ( clo? be+ wov5 9 !m at ! same "t2 b !y _h evid5tly be5 disc>d$1 & 7 n !n 9 use among/ manufactur]s4 ,! looms made accord+ to ,reid & ,johnson's specification 7 s v diff]5t f ,johnson's looms z to h v little 9 common ) !m except+ t !y also 7 v]tical p[]-looms 9 :i* ! w>ps ext5d$ v]tically4 ,! specification /ates t ! 8great object0 ( _! improvem5ts is to enable f\r webs or pieces ( clo? to be wov5 simultane\sly & at "o op]ation 9 ! same loom1 ) only "o slay :i* has a v]tical motion1 & also t ! w>ps = ! f\r webs are to be w\nd on two sep>ate w>p-beams4 ,aft] describ+ 9 m9ute detail ! con/ruction ( ! improv$ loom1 ! pat5tees proce$ to describe _! inv5tion ( a device = ! automatic supply ( weft to _! looms :il/ ^! cont9ue runn+4 ,?is "p ( _! inv5tion is introduc$ z if x 7 q incid5tal & ( little consequ5ce1 & is describ$ z ! 8accessories & new improvem5ts0 :i* !y apply to _! v]tical p[]-looms1 z foll[s3-- 8,9 ord] to avoid /opp+ ! motion ( ! loom :5 any "o ( ! f\r weft ?reads break1 twice or ?ree times z _m %uttles z are requir$ = con/ant use are to be lodg$ 9 suitable receptacles or %uttle boxes1 :i* are s arrang$ t ! break+ ( a weft ?read w cause a *ange ( %uttles1 & a sub/itution ( sp>e %uttles1 :i* h be5 provid$ & plac$ 9 ! said receptacles ready = su* *ang+2 = in/ance1 ! break+ or failure ( a weft ?read f ei!r ( ! two %uttles1 :i* "w on ! same re$ z "o pair1 w cause ! pair to be remov$1 & a pair ( sp>e %uttles to be br\ght into _! place in/antane\sly1 )\t any act ( ! p]son :o att5ds ! loom1 & :o w !re=e h no occasion to /op ! motion !re( :5 a weft ?read breaks or runs (f1 b w only h to take c>e to keep ! loom at all times provid$ ) a suffici5t numb] ( sp>e %uttles ready fill$ & ins]t$ into _! prop] places 9 ! receptacles1 leav+ x to ! ma*9]y ( ! loom to remove ^? %uttles :i* h be5 work+1 & to sub/itute o!rs ! in/ant t a *ange becomes necess>y 9 consequ5ce ( ! breakage or failure ( weft ?read4 ,b if1 by neglect ( ! att5dant1 ! loom is n s provid$ ) a pair ( sp>e %uttles ready fill$ & plac$ 9 prep>ation = *ang+ z a=esaid by ! ma*9]y on ! breakage or failure ( any weft ?read1 !n ! loom w /op its own motion1 :]e=e ! weav+ _c be cont9u$ unless all ! f\r webs h _! sev]al wefts duly ins]t$ 9 a prop] mann] = work+ clo?40 ,f ?is description x is ( int]e/ to note t :at probably con/itut$ ! fir/ automatic loom 0 ( ! %uttle-*ang+ type1 to :i* ne>ly all subsequ5t inv5tors 9 ?is p>ticul> field h *iefly devot$ _! att5tion4 ,x 0 n until an int]val ( ne>ly sev5 ye>s _h elaps$ aft] ,reid & ,johnson's pat5t t a pat5t 0 grant$ to ,*>les ,p>k]1 ( ,d>l+ton1 = ! second inv5tion ( an automatic weft-repl5i%+ device1 :i*1 l its pr$ecessor1 0 also "o ( ! %uttle-*ang+ type4 ,?is device1 along ) o!r improvem5ts 9 p[]-looms1 is describ$ & illu/rat$ 9 ! specification dat$ #bbnd ,octob]1 #ahdj1 ,no4 #hffd1 9 :i* ! f\r? claim made by ! pat5tee is 9 respect ( 8means ( *ang+ ! %uttle :5 ! weft is brok5 or ! %uttle is empty ( weft0 )\t ! necessity ( /opp+ ! loom = t purpose4 ,! next & ?ird pat5t = an automatic weft-repl5i%+ device1 :i*1 l ! two previ\s devices1 0 a %uttle-*ang]1 0 t grant$ to an ag5t1 ,william ,newton1 to :om ! inv5tion 0 communicat$ f a =eign c\ntry n nam$ 9 ! specification :i* is dat$ #bh? ,april1 #aheb1 ,no4 #ad1jib4 ,?is docum5t /ates t ! inv5tion relates to improvem5ts 9 looms = weav+ pla91 figur$1 or fancy fabrics1 & t x consi/s 9 ! employm5t ( sev]al %uttles arrang$ 9 ! loom 9 su* a mann] t if ! weft fail$1 or ! %uttle miss$ or flew out ( ! %uttle-box1 a second %uttle w\ld always be 9 read9ess to take its place1 )\t x be+ necess>y to /op ! loom 9 ord] to replace x ) a fre% %uttle4 ,9 c>ry+ out ! improvem5t1 sev]al %uttles :]e plac$ "o above ! o!r 9 a box1 or 9 guides fix$ imm$iately above ! %uttle-race or box1 & held 9 _! place by means ( a /ud1 plate1 or cat*1 :i*1 :5 requir$1 0 remov$ s z to all[ a second %uttle to ent] ! %uttle-box 9 place ( ! sp5t %uttle1 :i*1 by ! same motion1 0 pu%$ out4 ,9 ! ev5t ( a %uttle fly+ out or miss+ ! %uttle-box1 ! same me*anism caus$ a fre% %uttle to supply its place4 ,! special me*anism :i* affect$ ! *ang+ ( %uttles 0 put into op]ation by means ( a weft-/opp+ device :i* detect$ ! abs5ce ( weft :5ev] ?is fail$ to pass along ! %uttle-race 9 front ( ! re$4 ,aft] an int]val ( five ye>s f ! grant+ ( ! previ\s pat5t1 ,patrick ,mc,farlane1 ( ,p]?1 pat5t$ an automatic weft-repl5i%+ device :i* m>ks a di/9ctly new dep>ture f ! previ\s inv5tions = ! same object1 & "o1 moreov]1 :i* has ! di/9ction ( con/itut+ ! prototype ( cop-or bobb9-*ang+ devices1 ( :i* type a modification has be5 s successfully adopt$ 9 ! con/ruction ( ,nor?rop automatic looms4 ,mc,farlane's inv5tion is describ$ 9 ! ,pat5t ,specification dat$ #ac? ,april1 #aheg1 ,no4 #ajdf1 :i* /ates t 8! fir/ "p ( ! inv5tion consi/s 9 means or arrangem5ts by :i* a loom is made to supply its %uttle or %uttles ) fre% weft :5 ! weft la/ plac$ 9 ! %uttle or %uttles has become brok5 or exhau/$40 ,! cop or bobb9 ( weft 0 plac$ 9 a case :i* fitt$ inside ! %uttle 9 :i* x 0 held securely dur+ weav+1 b f :i* x c\ld be easily eject$ & replac$ by ano!r weft-case conta9+ a fre% supply ( weft :il/ ! loom cont9u$ weav+4 ,any practicable numb] ( ^! weft-cases 7 conv5i5tly /or$ & reta9$ 9 a suitable receptacle or hopp]1 s t ! successive weft-cases c\ld take ! place ( ^? remov$1 z !y 7 ea* 9 turn ins]t$ 9 ! %uttle4 ,! *amb] conta9+ ! res]ve supply ( weft-cases 0 atta*$ to ! fram+ ( ! loom opposite ! %uttle-box or boxes1 s t :5 ! abs5ce ( weft 0 detect$ by ! weft-=k1 ?is put into op]ation ! weft-*ang+ me*anism :i* =c$ a weft-case f ! hopp] into ! %uttle1 & !reby displac$ ! previ\s weft-case :i* fell into a box or basket4 ,an int]val ( only ?ree ye>s elaps$ be=e ! next pat5t 0 grant$ = a weft-repl5i%+ device pat5t$ by ,?omas ,+ram1 ( ,brad=d1 = :i* ! specification is dat$ #d? ,april1 #ahfj1 ,no4 #hfa4 ,9 ?is specification1 ! pat5tee describes a device :i* comb9es ! elem5ts ( bo? a %uttle-*ang+ & also a cop-or bobb9-*ang+ loom4 ,! inv5tion relates to me*anism = effect+ a cont9u\s action 9 looms )\t /opp+ !m to *ange ! bobb9s or cops1 or = an additional supply ( weft1 :e!r t is all us$ up or only brok54 ,?is 0 effect$ by =m+ an op5+ or ap]ture 9 ! front1 back1 top or bottom ( ! %uttle-box 8l>ge en\gh to admit a %uttle1 or a case conta9+ a spool or spools ( weft1 to pass ?r\gh to be ins]t$ )9 ! box40 ,also1 8:5 ! weft is brok5 or us$ up1 or a *ange ( weft is requir$1 ! %uttle1 or ! case )9 ! %uttle conta9+ ! weft1 is imm$iately expell$ ?r\gh "o ( ! op5+s 9 ! %uttle-box1 & suppli$ ?r\gh ano!r ( ! op5+s ) ano!r %uttle or a case conta9+ a fur!r supply ( weft40 ,! pat5tee /ates lat] t he is aw>e ( a pat5t = a previ\s device 8to ex*ange ! cop ( weft by means ( a portable case1 :il/ ! loom 0 9 action10 & does n claim t device z a "p ( 8 own inv5tion2 b :at he claims 8is ! comb9ation & ! g5]al arrangem5t ( app>atus or me*anism = produc+ or effect+ cont9u\s action 9 looms = weav+40 ,a device ( a diff]5t "* f any ( ^? previ\sly describ$ 0 "o t =m$ ! subject ( a communication f ,julius ,bo$d+haus1 ( ,elb]feld1 ,prussia1 to an ag5t1 ,william ,brookes1 & is describ$ 9 ! specification dat$ #ad? ,novemb]1 #ahfj1 ,no4 #bghg4 ,! function ( ?is device 0 m]ely t ( eject+ ! %uttle automatically :5 ! weft fail$2 b ! repl5i%+ ( weft requir$ to be p]=m$ by h& 9 ! usual mann]4 ,! eject+ ( ! %uttle 0 effect$ by caus+ x to %oot d[nw>d ?r\gh an op5+ 9 ! base ( ! %uttle-box at "o end ( ! slay1 & on ! occurr5ce ( :i* ! loom w\ld /op4 ,a pat5t = ! next device :i*1 al?\gh n /rictly belong+ to ! pres5t category ( inv5tions1 is1 nev]!less1 closely alli$ to !m1 0 t grant$ to ,john ,leem+1 ,brad=d1 & describ$ 9 ! specification dat$ #e? ,febru>y1 #ahfa1 ,no4 #cja4 ,! specific object ( ?is device 0 to effect *anges ( weft ( diff]5t k9ds or col\rs = ! production ( *eck fabrics4 ,weft-cases1 z introduc$ by ,patrick ,mc,farlane 9 #aheg1 7 employ$ to conta9 ! weft1 & ! weft-cases 7 ex*ang$ automatically 9 ! same %uttle accord+ to a pre>rang$ s*eme ( decoration1 b n on ! failure ( weft1 9 :i* ev5t ! loom w\ld /op z usual4 ,! device 01 !re=e1 a *eck+ motion to effect *anges ( diff]5t k9ds ( weft by *ang+ cops or bobb9s1 in/ead ( employ+ a numb] ( sep>ate *amb]s1 ea* conta9+ a %uttle ) a diff]5t k9d ( weft1 & br++ ^! 9 l9e ) ! race-bo>d1 z requir$4 ,9 ?is respect1 !re=e1 ! pres5t device may be reg>d$ z ! fir/ record$ attempt to adapt ! automatic weft-repl5i%+ elem5t to p]=m ! function ( a *eck+ motion4 ,! next foll[+ pat5t = a weft-repl5i%+ device 0 t grant$ to ?ree ,craw=ds & ,rob]t ,templeton1 ( ,bei?1 ,ayr1 & describ$ 9 ! specification dat$ #ag? ,febru>y1 #ahfb1 ,no4 #dai4 ,?is inv5tion1 :i* is ( ! %uttle-*ang+ type1 introduces two di/9ctly novel dep>tures f any previ\s inv5tion ( ! same class1 namely1 ! employm5t ( a six-*amb]$ revolv+ %uttle-box to br+ fre% %uttles into work+ position1 & also :at corresponds to a weft-feel+ motion to effect ! repl5i%+ ( weft be=e ! supply 9 use is q deplet$4 ,! *amb]s ( ! multiple %uttle-box are *>g$ ) res]ve %uttles conta9$ 9 a hopp]4 ,at ea* *ange ( %uttles ! boxes revolv$ on _! common axis = "o-six? ( a revolution to receive a fre% %uttle 9 read9ess = ! next *ange4 ,on arriv+ at ! bottom ( its circuit1 ! disc>d$ %uttle fell out ( its *amb] into a receptacle4 ,! weft-feel+ motion op]at$ ! weft-*ang+ me*anism :5 ! weft 0 ne>ly deplet$4 ,?is 0 effect$ by con/ruct+ ! weft pirns or bobb9s ) a longitud9al slot to receive a curv$ blade-spr+ fitt+ inside ! %uttle s t x ent]$ ! slot 9 ! bobb9 & pass$ und]nea? ! weft4 ,on ! weft becom+ exhau/$ to a c]ta9 fix$ po9t on ! bobb91 ! blade-spr+ 0 automatically releas$1 on :i* x project$ ?r\gh a slot =m$ 9 ! %uttle side4 ,?us1 on ! %uttle arriv+ 9 its *amb] ( ! rot>y boxes1 ! blade-spr+ came into contact ) a "p ( ! weft-*ang+ me*anism :i* 0 !reby put into op]ation to *ange ! %uttles4 ,! =ego+ brief descriptions ( ! fir/ eight pat5t$ devices = ! automatic repl5i%+ ( weft 9 looms w s]ve to indicate ! g5]al "* :i* ^? devices assum$ d[n to ,febru>y1 #ahfb4 ,al?\gh s9ce t date to ! pres5t "t ! numb] ( pat5ts = devices ( t class ( inv5tions numb] _m hundr$s1 yet x is significant t none ( ^! lat] devices diff] 9 any ess5tial elem5t f ^? ( e>li] inv5tions4 ,! table on page #bji gives a li/ ( weft-repl5i%+ devices = :i* ,lett]s ,pat5t h be5 grant$1 d[n to #ahid1 ) ! date & numb] ( specification1 ! names ( pat5tees1 & type ( device4 ,,li/ ,,( ,,pat5ts ,,= ,,automatic ,,weft-,,repl5i%+ ,,devices4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------- ,no ( ,date ( ,pat5t4 ,specification4 ,"n ( ,pat5tee4 ,type ( ,device4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------- 7#a7 #ahcd1 ,m>4 #bj #f1egi ,j4 ,p4 ,reid & ,t4 ,johnson ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#b7 #ahdj1 ,oct4 #bb #h1ffd ,*>les ,p>k] ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#c7 #aheb1 ,apr4 #bh #ad1jib ,william ,newton ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#d7 #aheg1 ,apr4 #ac #a1jdf ,patrick ,mc,farlane ,cop- or ,bobb9-*ang+ 7#e7 #ahfj1 ,apr4 #d #hfa ,?omas ,+ram ,%uttle-*ang+ or ,cop- or ,optional4 ,bobb9-*ang+ 7#f7 #ahfj1 ,nov4 #ad #b1ghg ,julius ,bo$d+haus ,%uttle-eject+ 7#g7 #ahfa1 ,feb4 #e #cja ,john ,leem+ ,bobb9-*ang+ = ,*eck ,fabrics 7#h7 #ahfb1 ,feb4 #ag #dai ,h41 ,j41 & ,r4 ,craw=d ,%uttle-*ang+ & ,r4 ,templeton 7#i7 #ahfc1 ,jan4 #bg #bci ,j4 ,edmondson & ,t4 ,cop- or ,bobb9-*ang+ ,+ram 7#aj7 #ahfd1 ,m>4 #ag #fhh ,j4 ,edmondson & ,t4 ,cop- or ,bobb9-*ang+ ,+ram 7#aa7 #ahfd1 ,july #ai #a1hjc ,john ,maynes ,cop- or ,bobb9-*ang+ 7#ab7 #ahfe1 ,feb4 #b #bic ,john ,maynes ,cop- or ,bobb9-*ang+ 7#ac7 #ahfe1 ,sept4 #bj #b1cie ,joseph ,edmondson ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#ad7 #ahff1 ,jan4 #a #a ,j4 ,bull\gh & ,w4 ,%uttle-*ang+ ,rossett] 7#ae7 #ahff1 ,apr4 #af #a1jfi ,alf4 ,v9c5t ,newton ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#af7 #ahff1 ,sept4 #f #b1bib ,john ,bull\gh ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#ag7 #ahff1 ,oct4 #ac #b1fed ,wm4 ,rossett] ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#ah7 #ahfh1 ,july #bh #b1cff ,john ,bull\gh ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#ai7 #ahfh1 ,sept4 #aj #b1ghh ,john ,maynes ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#bj7 #ahfi1 ,sept4 #bh #b1hbj ,john ,bull\gh ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#ba7 #ahgj1 ,may #bf #a1ecj ,b5jam9 ,coop] ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#bb7 #ahgb1 ,m>4 #ab #geg ,a4 ,m4 ,cl>k1 f ,paul ,%uttle-*ang+ ,heilmann 7#bc7 #ahgd1 ,may #a #a1edb ,j4 ,h4 ,johnson1 f ,%uttle-*ang+ ,ar?ur ,villem9ot 7#bd7 #ahgg1 ,jan4 #bg #cef ,j4 ,s4 & ,b4 ,a4 ,rawor? ,semi-automatic ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#be7 #ahhh1 ,m>4 #ca #d1hej ,jacob ,juck] ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#bf7 #aj1fcc ,a4 ,g4 ,brookes1 f ,cop- or ,bobb9-*ang+ 7#bg7ahia1 ,june #bc #aj1fcd ,w4 ,f4 ,drap] ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#bh7 #aj1fce ,cop- or ,bobb9-*ang+ 7#bi7 #ahid1 ,apr4 #bf #h1bea ,h4 ,b\rgeois ,%uttle-*ang+ 7#cj7 #ahid1 ,oct4 #b #ah1faa ,g4 ,o4 ,drap] ,cop- or ,bobb9-*ang+ 7#ca7 #ahid1 ,nov4 #bg #bb1ici ,a4 ,g4 ,brookes1 f ,nor?rop device = ,w4 ,f4 ,drap] ,cop- or ,bobb9-*ang+ ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -------- ,dur+ ! p]iods ( f\r ye>s end+ ,decemb]1 #aijj & #aijd1 !re 7 #cd & #afc ,briti% pat5ts respectively grant$ = inv5tions relat+ to devices = ! repl5i%+ ( weft automatically 9 looms1 :i* figures be> /rik+ evid5ce ( ! am\nt ( en]gy & inv5tive tal5t :i* h be5 exp5d$ 9 ?is direction dur+ ! pa/ few ye>s4 ,& h[ =ceful are ^! figures :5 contra/$ ) ! numb] ( pat5ts 7#ca7 ext5d+ ov] ! fir/ p]iod ( #fa ye>s4 ,x 01 h[ev]1 n until aft] ! adv5t1 9 #ahid1 ( ! ,nor?rop automatic loom1 :i* receiv$ su* fav\rable reception by ,am]ican manufactur]s1 t ! adoption ( automatic looms 0 tak5 into e>ne/ consid]ation by ,briti% manufactur]s1 _m ( :om n[ recognize t 9 "o =m or ano!r su* looms h a def9ite sph]e ( usefulness 9 ! manufacture ( a great v>iety ( diff]5t classes ( fabrics ( simple con/ruction & embody+ "o s]ies ea* ( w>p & weft ?reads4 ,! ,nor?rop ,weft-repl5i%+ ,device4 ,! mo/ *>act]i/ic features & ess5tial elem5ts ( ?is device1 & also ^? :i* di/+ui% x f all previ\s inv5tions ( ?is class1 consi/ ( ! removal ( cops or bobb9s ( weft t are conv5i5tly reta9$ 9 a circul> rot>y hopp] or magaz9e1 & ( _! ins]tion into a self-?read+ %uttle1 by me*anical means op]at$ automatically ei!r on ! breakage or depletion ( weft1 or else :5 ! weft is deplet$ to a pr$et]m9$ am\nt1 z may be elect$4 ,! magaz9e conta9+ ! res]ve supply ( weft is always m\nt$ above ! %uttle-box situat$ on ! "r-h& side ( ! loom1 z repres5t$ p]spectively 9 ,fig4 #afg1 :i* %[s a bobb9-hopp] ,a f :i* a pu%] ,b is 9 ! act ( remov+ a full bobb9 ( weft & ins]t+ x into ! %uttle1 !reby eject+ ! previ\s bobb9 ,c :i* falls d[n a *ute into a box ,d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afh4 ,! p>ts ( ?is device are bett] repres5t$ by ! sectional view %[n 9 ,fig4 #afh1 :i* illu/rates a cop-hopp] ,a freely m\nt$ on a /ud ,e to p]mit ( its p>tial rotation1 int]mitt5tly1 imm$iately aft] ea* successive *ange ( weft1 s z to br+ into position ano!r cop to be 9 read9ess = ! next *ange ( weft4 ,! hopp] "h %[n is "o con/ruct$ ) sockets = #bh cops1 ,f2 b ! space occupi$ by ! pu%] r$uces its actual capacity to #be cops4 ,^! are previ\sly plac$ ^u skew]s1 ,g1 ( special con/ruction1 aft] :i* !y are dispos$ 9 a horizontal position ar\nd & betwe5 ! rims ( two discs or plates t are =m$ ) not*es = ! reception ( ! skew]s1 z repres5t$ 9 ! diagram4 ,! conditions "u :i* a *ange ( weft is effect$ dep5ds entirely on ! equipm5t ( ! loom1 :i* may be adapt$ s t a *ange w take place only :5 ! weft ei!r breaks or o!rwise fails 9 its supply2 or else ! loom may be furni%$ ) an atta*m5t kn[n z a 8weft-feel+0 device :i* effects a *ange ( weft imm$iately be=e ! previ\s supply is completely consum$1 albeit1 9 ?is case1 if ! weft %\ld break1 ! loom w /op automatically1 z "u ord9>y conditions4 ,! object ( ?is device is to avoid su* defects z are liable to be caus$ 9 clo? 9 consequ5ce ( brok5 & miss+ picks ( weft1 & s produce clo? ( sup]ior m]it4 ,if1 h[ev]1 su* a device is n employ$1 ! weft-*ang+ me*anism is put into action1 on ! failure ( weft1 by ! weft-=k hamm] pull+ backw>d ! weft-=k1 z usual4 ,b :e!r ! op]ation ( ! weft-*ang+ device is controll$ by ! weft-=k or by ! weft-feel]1 ! object 9 ei!r case is to cause ! not*$ & free end ( a trip-f+] ,h to tilt upw>d f its normal position1 z %[n 9 ! diagram1 s t on ! =w>d /roke ( ! slay ,k ! f+] w be /ruck by a bunt] ,j fix$ on ! front ( ! slay-baulk4 ,! trip-f+] is loosely m\nt$ on a /ud fix$ at ! bottom ( a %ort arm ( an ,l-lev] :i* con/itutes ! pu%] ,b1 fulcrum$ freely on a /ud ,l4 ,?us1 9 ! ev5t ( ! trip-f+] be+ tilt$ on ! =w>d /roke ( ! slay1 ! free end ( ! pu%]1 :i* rea*es ov] ! ready-position$ cop 9 ! hopp]1 is sudd5ly depress$ :5 ! slay is at its extreme =w>d position1 !reby remov+ t cop f ! hopp]1 & =c+ x into ! %uttle ,m1 ?r\gh ! bottom ( :i* ! previ\s cop-skew] is expell$ & pass$ d[n a *ute ,n4 ,! next flight ( ! %uttle causes ! weft ?read to pass ?r\gh a slit =m$ 9 a brass ca/+ fix$ 9 ! upp] side ( ! %uttle1 & !n to ent] ! %uttle eye automatically4 ,at ! same "t1 ! remnants ( bo? weft ?reads are sev]$ ne> to ! selv$ge ( clo? & also at a po9t ne> to ! hopp]1 s t !y %all n become ob/ructive or involve ! risk ( be+ c>ri$ along accid5tally into ! w>p-%$4 ,all ^! op]ations occur 9 prop] rhy?mical sequ5ce :il/ ! loom cont9ues to run at full spe$1 :i*1 = a loom ( #cf in*es re$-space1 may be up to #aej picks p] m9ute4 ,! ,hatt]sley ,weft-repl5i%+ ,device4 7,pat5t ,no4 #bb1ebc1 #aa? ,decemb]1 #aijj47 ,! *ief *>act]i/ic elem5t :i* di/+ui%es ?is device--:i* is "o ( ! mo/ successful modifications ( ! %uttle-*ang+ type--f o!r weft-*ang+ devices1 is ! /opp+ ( ! loom to effect ! *ange ( %uttles1 & !n ! re/>t+ ( x1 automatically4 ,! object ( t c\rse is to all[ m "t to accompli% ! *ange1 & s av]t ! /ra9+ & break+ ( ! me*anical p>ts1 :i* are m liable to occur :5 ! *ang+ ( weft is effect$ :il/ ! loom cont9ues to run at full spe$1 z 9 all o!r automatic looms4 ,x is also claim$ t ?is arrangem5t enables a loom to be run at ! same spe$ z an ord9>y loom ( ! same wid? & con/ruction1 :]eas cont9u\s-act+ looms require to be work$ at a sl[] velocity4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #agj4 ,9 ! ,hatt]sley loom1 ! res]ve supply ( %uttles t h be5 previ\sly furni%$ ) weft are reta9$ 9 a hopp] or magaz9e :i* is m\nt$ on ! brea/-beam & fac+ ! %uttle-box on ei!r ! "r-or left-h& side ( ! loom4 ,! *ang+ ( %uttles may be effect$ ei!r by ! action ( ! weft-=k only :5 ! weft actually fails f any cause1 or else by ! op]ation ( a weft-feel]1 be=e ! weft completely fails1 z desir$4 ,9 ei!r case a *ange ( %uttles involves a s]ies ( six di/9ct op]ations :i* occur 9 ! foll[+ sequ5ce1 namely3 7#a7 /opp+ ! loom1 7#b7 rais+ ! %uttle-box f5d]1 7#c7 eject+ ! fail+ %uttle f its box1 7#d7 remov+ f ! magaz9e ano!r %uttle & plac+ x 9 ! empti$ %uttle-box1 7#e7 l[]+ ! %uttle-box f5d] back into its normal position1 & 7#f7 re/>t+ ! loom4 ,^! op]ations1 ( :i* ! second1 ?ird1 & f\r? are repres5t$ by diagrams 9 ,figs4 #afi1 #agj1 & #aga1 are accompli%$ by means ( a s]ies ( f\r tappets gov]n$ by an ind5t$ clut*-:eel1 all ( :i* are loosely m\nt$ toge!r on ! second-motion or pick+-%aft1 at ! same side ( ! loom z t on :i* ! driv+-pulleys are situat$4 ,! clut*-:eel is driv5 by means ( a p9ion c>ri$ by ! loose driv+-pulley1 & revolves cont9u\sly1 s t :5 a *ange ( %uttles is call$ =1 an ind5t or not* 9 ! clut*-:eel becomes engag$ by a lug :i*1 be+ secur$ to ! tappets1 turns ^! = "o revolution1 & !reby p]=ms ! s]ies ( op]ations j enum]at$4 ,?us1 9 ! ev5t ( weft ei!r fail+ or becom+ ne>ly deplet$1 ei!r ! weft-=k hamm] or else ! weft-feel] motion1 accord+ to ! equipm5t ( ! loom1 fir/ dis5gages ! />t+-h&le to pass ! driv+-belt f ! fa/ or driv+-pulley to ! loose pulley1 !reby /opp+ all ! prim>y movem5ts ( ! loom1 & at ! same "t putt+ into op]ation ! s]ies ( f\r tappets :i* effect ! *ang+ ( %uttles4 ,!n "o ( ! f\r tappets raises ! %uttle-box front1 ,c1 above ! %uttle ,b1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #afi1 to p]mit ( ! removal ( ! %uttle4 ,a second tappet !n op]ates ! pu%] ,d1 :i* advances to eject ! disc>d$ %uttle f its box1 :5ce x falls into a receptacle1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #agj4 ,a ?ird tappet next op]ates ! fe$] ,e1 :i* removes ! bottom %uttle f ! hopp] ,a & places x 9 ! same %uttle-box z t previ\sly occupi$ by ! eject$ %uttle1 z repres5t$ 9 ,fig4 #aga4 ,! %uttle-box f5d] n[ falls suffici5tly to prev5t ! )drawal ( ! newly ins]t$ %uttle f ! box z ! fe$] )draws & returns to ! magaz9e to receive ano!r %uttle 9 read9ess = ! next *ange1 aft] :i* ! %uttle-box front falls to its normal position1 & f9ally ! f\r? tappet replaces ! />t+-h&le into its op]ative position to transf] ! driv+-belt back aga9 f ! loose to ! fa/ driv+-pulley & !reby re-/>t ! loom4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aga4 ,all ! movem5ts j describ$ are p]=m$ dur+ "o complete revolution ( ! tappets1 & involve a /oppage = six picks1 correspond+ to six revolutions ( ! crank-%aft4 ,!re=e1 9 a loom runn+ at a spe$ ( #ahj picks p] m9ute1 ! *ang+ ( %uttles w\ld involve a /oppage ( ! loom = only two seconds4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,! ,,pr9ciples ,,( ,,design+ ,! simple/ =m ( int]lac+ ! ?reads is ! pla9 or tabby weave4 ,9 ?is weave ! ?reads int]sect z (t5 z possible1 & ?us ! greate/ possible am\nt ( firmness & /r5g? is obta9$ f a giv5 quantity ( mat]ial by ?is weave1 ) ! exception ( l5o or cross weav+1 :]e additional firmness & /r5g? is obta9$ by ! w>p ?reads be+ p>tly twi/$ r\nd ea* o!r 9 weav+4 ,pla9 clo?s may be ornam5t$ by us+ ?reads ( diff]5t col\rs & ( diff]5t ?icknesses1 z1 = in/ance1 if f\r picks ( blue & f\r picks ( :ite are alt]nately put into a clo?1 ! w>p ( :i* is compos$ ( f\r ends blue & f\r ends :ite alt]nately1 a *eck is =m$ al?\gh ! weave is q pla94 ,a *eck may also be =m$ on a pla9 clo? by us+ "o or m ?ick ?reads at int]vals 9 bo? w>p & weft4 ,!re is1 ( c\rse1 a limit to ! numb] ( ?reads ( a c]ta9 c\nt :i* c be put into a pla9 clo?4 ,assum+ t ! c\nts ( w>p & weft are equal1 & t ! numb] ( picks p] in* requir$ is ! same z ! ends1 ! numb] ( ?reads p] in* :i* c be satisfactorily put into ! clo? w\ld n mu* exce$ half ! numb] :i* c\ld be plac$ side by side 9 "o in*4 ,"s all[ance mu/ be made = ! ?reads be+ b5t out ( a /raight l9e & = compression4 ,?is bran* ( design w be treat$ ( m fully 9 a subsequ5t *apt]1 b x w be obvi\s t ?is limit to ! numb] ( ?reads ( a giv5 c\nt :i* c be us$ 9 a pla9 clo? r5d]s ! weave unsuitable = heavy fabrics4 ,if a pla9 clo? is v heavy & ?ick1 x mu/ ( necessity be co>se4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #agb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #agc4 ,pla9 clo? c be made by us+ two %afts1 b f\r are usually tak5 ) ! draft1 z %[n at ,fig4 #agb4 ,?is prev5ts ov]cr[d+ ! healds4 ,by ty+ ! fir/ & second toge!r & ! ?ird & f\r? toge!r1 ! effect is ! same z by us+ only two /aves1 only two lifts be+ requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #agd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #age4 ,twills4--,! simple/ twill is ! 8#b & #a0 twill1 :i* is wov5 ) ?ree %afts4 ,a section ?r\gh ?is twill is giv5 at ,fig4 #agc1 :]e x w be se5 ! weft passes "u "o end & ov] two4 ,! /ructure ( ! fabric is bett] %[n on 8po9t pap]10 z at ,fig4 #agd4 ,! spaces betwe5 ! p]p5dicul> l9es repres5t ! w>p ?reads or 8ends10 & ! spaces betwe5 ! horizontal l9es repres5t ! weft ?reads or 8picks40 ,by fill+ 9 ! fir/ squ>e on ! fir/ pick1 x is %[n t ! fir/ end is lift$ = t pick2 & by fill+ 9 ! second end on ! second pick1 x is %[n t ! second end is lift$ on ! second pick1 & s on4 ,x is n always advisable to take a fill$-9 squ>e z repres5t+ a lift$ end1 z x is (t5 m conv5i5t to fill 9 ! weft squ>es or ^? :i* are left d[n 9 weav+4 ,if necess>y1 x c be /at$ along ) ! design :e!r ! m>ks repres5t w>p or weft up4 ,twill$ weaves enable a l>g] numb] ( ?reads ( a giv5 c\nt to be put into a fabric ?an 9 a pla9 clo?1 & !re=e ^! weaves are employ$ 9 ! production ( ! heavi] k9ds ( clo?s :]e clos5ess ( ! ?reads is also desir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #agf4 ,) ?ree /aves ! twill giv5 at ,fig4 #agd is ! only "o :i* c be wov54 ,! same twill may be wov5 ) ! w>p pr$om9at+ on ! face1 & ?is w\ld be repres5t$ on pap] z at ,fig4 #agf1 :]e two ends are %[n to be lift$ on ea* ( ! ?ree picks4 ,9 weav+ ?is patt]n ?ree /aves w\ld be tak5 ) ! draft1 z giv5 = ,fig4 #agd 7see ,fig4 #age74 ,! fir/ /ave w be lift$ = ! fir/ pick1 ! second /ave = ! second pick1 & ! ?ird /ave = ! ?ird pick4 ,^! ?ree lifts be+ repeat$ ov] an indef9ite numb] ( times w produce small diagonal l9es runn+ at an angle ( #de degrees across ! piece1 if ! numb] ( w>p & weft ?reads 9 a giv5 space are equal4 ,?is twill is sometimes call$ a 8,jean10 & is us$ 9 ! production ( a fabric ( t "n1 z well z 9 8,jeannettes10 ! latt] ) w>p pr$om9at+ on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,9 all ^! fabrics a l>ge range ( qualities is made4 ,) f\r /aves ! foll[+ twills c be made3-- #a4 ,"o up1 ?ree d[n2 #b4 ,two up1 two d[n2 #c4 ,?ree up1 "o d[n4 ,^! are %[n on po9t pap] at ,figs4 #agg1 #agh1 & #agi respectively4 ,! ?ird patt]n is really ! same z ! fir/1 be+ ! rev]se ( t patt]n4 ,x is advisable1 h[ev]1 to consid] !m z two di/9ct patt]ns1 s9ce !y give diff]5t effects :5 us$ = purposes ( comb9ation1 z w be se5 lat]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #agg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #agh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #agi4 ,five-%aft ,twills4--,) five %afts ( /aves ! possible twills are-- #a4 ,"o up1 f\r d[n2 #b4 ,two up1 ?ree d[n2 #c4 ,?ree up1 two d[n2 #d4 ,f\r up1 "o d[n2 #e4 ,two up1 "o d[n1 "o up1 "o d[n2 #f4 ,two d[n1 "o up1 "o d[n1 "o up4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ahj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aha4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ahb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ahc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ahd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ahe4 ,^! are %[n on po9t pap] at ,figs4 #ahj to #ahe inclusive4 ,!re are really only ?ree diff]5t me?ods ( int]lac+ ! ?reads 9 ^! six patt]ns2 b1 z /at$ previ\sly1 diff]5t effects are produc$ 9 comb9ation twills by all ( !m4 ,six-%aft ,twills4--,) ! increase 9 ! numb] ( %afts ! numb] ( twills increases v quickly1 z ) a 8repeat0 ( six ends ! foll[+ simple twill c be wov53-- #a4 ,"o up1 five d[n2 #b4 ,two up1 f\r d[n2 #c4 ,?ree up1 ?ree d[n2 #d4 ,f\r up1 two d[n2 #e4 ,five up1 "o d[n2 #f4 ,?ree up1 "o d[n1 "o up1 "o d[n2 #g4 ,?ree d[n1 "o up1 "o d[n1 "o up2 #h4 ,two up1 two d[n1 "o up1 "o d[n2 #i4 ,two d[n1 two up1 "o d[n1 "o up4 ,!re are "h five di/9ct me?ods ( int]section1 ! rema9+ f\r patt]ns be+ rev]ses4 ,! patt]ns are %[n on po9t pap] at ,figs4 #ahf to #aid4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ahf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ahg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ahh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ahi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aij4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aia4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aib4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aic4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aid4 ,eight-%aft ,twills4--,) a 8repeat0 ( eight ends & picks ! numb] ( *anges :i* c be made 9 ! basis ( ! twill is mu* l>g]1 & z ! size ( ! repeat increases ! possible twills increase enorm\sly4 ,a selection ( eight-end twills is giv5 at ,figs4 #aie to #bjd inclusive4 ,sat9 ,weaves4--,9 simple twills e pick is int]lac$ ) ! w>p 9 ! same mann]1 b ea* successive pick comm5ces1 z x 71 "o end fur!r to ! "r or to ! left1 ?us enabl+ e end to be b\nd into ! clo? 9 regul> ord]4 ,9 sat9s ! picks are arrang$ diff]5tly4 ,! object 9 a sat9 clo? is to obta9 an ev5 surface1 free f ! bold l9es ( a twill2 & ?us x is necess>y to di/ribute ! po9ts ( int]section ( ! w>p & weft z ev5ly ov] ! surface ( ! fabric z possible4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aie4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aif4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aig4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aih4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bjj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bja4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bjb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bjc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bjd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bje4 ,! commone/ =m ( sat9 is ! five %aft1 & ?is c be wov5 ) five %afts ) a /raight draft lift$ 9 ! ord] #a1 #c1 #e1 #b1 #d4 ,! relation betwe5 ?is sat9 & a five-end twill is %[n at ,fig4 #ahj1 :]e x w be se5 t on ! second pick ( ! sat9 ! ?ird end is lift$1 on ! ?ird pick ! fif? end is lift$1 !n ! second is lift$1 & la/ly ! f\r?4 ,?is di/ribution ( ! po9ts ( int]section produces a sat94 ,a slight twill effect is giv5 by mo/ ( ^! weaves1 b x is no?+ l s decid$ z :]e ! adjac5t ends are lift$ on successive picks1 z 9 twill$ clo?s4 ,! direction ( ! twill 9 ! sat9 at ,fig4 #bje is f "r to left4 ,?is five-%aft sat9 weave is us$ ) weft prepond]at+ ov] w>p1 & also ! rev]se4 ,imm5se quantities ( clo? are made on bo? pr9ciples1 & 9 all qualities4 ,a regul> make ) weft pr$om9at+ is made ) ab\t #gb ends p] in* ( #cb's twi/1 & picks rang+ f #ajj to #bjj p] in* ( #dj's weft4 ,a f9] make is us$ 9 l>ge quantities = pr9t+ ^u4 ,?is clo? c\nts ab\t #bf ends #de picks p] qu>t]-in*1 & ! y>ns us$ are #fj's twi/1 #gj's weft4 ,^! are two ( ! /&>d makes ( sat9s1 b = special purposes all qualities are made 9 cotton4 ,) ! w>p pr$om9at+ a *eap] fabric is produc$1 z less "t is requir$ to weave a giv5 l5g?4 8,drills0 are wov5 on ?is pr9ciple1 ! proportion ( w>p to weft be+ ab\t two to "o4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bjf4 ,sat9s may be produc$ on any numb] ( %afts f five upw>ds4 ,fig4 #bjf is commonly call$ a f\r-%aft sat91 b ?is is bett] class$ z a brok5 twill4 ,! pr9ciple ( its /ructure is ess5tially diff]5t to t ( a true sat94 ,a simple me?od ( mak+ a sat9 weave on any numb] ( ends is to f9d ! fir/ numb] :i* is n a measure ( ! numb] ( /aves us$1 & take ?is z ! basis ( con/ruct+ ! sat91 z foll[s3 ,! fir/ numb] :i* is n a measure ( five is #b4 ,!n1 tak+ ?is z ! basis ( ! sat91 assum+ t ! fir/ /ave is lift$ = ! fir/ pick1 ! ?ird /ave mu/ be lift$ = ! second pick4 ,?is gives ! numb] ( ends to be 8skipp$0 ov]1 & ?us we c obta9 ! sat9 by skipp+ ov] "o ea* "t1 viz4 #a1 #c1 #e1 #b1 #d4 ,x is advisable to put ! numb]s 9 a l9e or 9 a circle1 & re-arrange !m und]nea?4 ,! ord] ( lift+ ! /aves = an eight-end sat9 c be obta9$ z foll[s3--,! fir/ numb] :i* is n a measure ( eight is #c4 ,!n1 tak+ ?is z ! basis1 we lift ! fir/ /ave = ! fir/ pick & ! f\r? /ave = ! second pick1 & 8skipp+0 ov] two ea* "t we get ! ord]1 #a1 #d1 #g1 #b1 #e1 #h1 #c1 #f4 ,?is is %[n on po9t pap] at ,fig4 #bjg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bjg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bjh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bji4 ,a six-/ave sat9 is irregul>4 ,x is impossible to =m a sat9 ) six /aves by 8skipp+0 ov] a regul> numb] ( /aves ea* pick1 b ! po9ts ( int]section c be sep>at$ & a satisfactory sat9 =m$ by lift+ ! /aves 9 ! ord]1 #a1 #c1 #e1 #b1 #f1 #d1 or #a1 #d1 #b1 #f1 #c1 #e4 ,^! are %[n on po9t pap] at ,figs4 #bjh & #bji4 ,a six-end sat9 weave is extremely useful1 z x takes r m mat]ial ?an a five1 & its irregul> appe>ance is an advantage = "s purposes4 ,fig4 #baj is a sev5-end sat94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #baj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #baa4 ,fig4 #baa is a t5-end sat94 ,?ree is ! fir/ numb] :i* is n a measure ( t51 !re=e ?ree is tak5 z a basis 9 con/ruct+ ! sat91 & ! f\r? /ave is lift$ = ! second pick1 & ! o!rs 9 regul> ord]4 ,fig4 #bab is a twelve-end sat94 ,! basis 9 ?is case is five1 z five is ! fir/ numb] :i* is n a measure ( twelve4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bab4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bac4 ,comb9$ ,twills4--,a useful class ( patt]n is obta9$ by comb9+ pick & pick two simple twills4 ,if two eight-end twills are comb9$ 9 ?is mann]1 a patt]n repeat+ on eight ends & sixte5 picks is produc$4 ,at ,fig4 #bac a 8?ree & five pla90 twill is comb9$ ) a 8?ree1 two1 "o1 two10 twill1 & diff]5t effects may be obta9$ by comb9+ ! same twills 9 all ! possible positions4 ,figs4 #bad to #bbj %[ ! effect produc$ by all ! *anges 9 ! relative position ( ! two twills4 ,an imm5se numb] ( patt]ns c be made on ?is pr9ciple1 z all ! simple twills may be comb9$ 9 e position1 & 9 ea* case a diff]5t patt]n results4 ,on six ends we h se5 t n9e simple twills c be made1 & z ea* may be comb9$ ) ! o!rs 9 six diff]5t positions1 ! numb] ( patt]ns :i* c be obta9$ f ?is sy/em ( comb9ation is z foll[s3--,fig4 #ahf comb9$ ) ea* ( ! o!rs 9 "o position ea* gives eight patt]ns1 & z !re are six positions 9 :i* !y c be comb9$1 ?is gives =ty-eight patt]ns4 ,fig4 #ahg comb9$ ) ,figs4 #ahh to #aid gives sev5 patt]ns1 & ^! 9 six positions give =ty-two patt]ns4 ,fig4 #ahh comb9$ ) ,figs4 #ahi to #aid gives six patt]ns1 & 9 ! six positions give ?irty-six patt]ns4 ,by go+ ?r\gh all ! *anges 9 ?is mann] we get successively #dh1 #db1 #cf1 #cj1 #bd1 #ah1 #ab1 & #f1 or a total ( #baf patt]ns4 ,9 addition to ^!1 ea* twill may be comb9$ pick & pick ) itself 9 f\r diff]5t positions )\t giv+ d\ble picks4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bad4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bae4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #baf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bag4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bah4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bai4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bbj4 ,draft+4--,! arrangem5t ( ! draft is a v important matt] 9 connection ) dobby or tappet weav+4 ,9 ! case ( simple twills1 sat9s1 & o!r regul> weaves1 z ea* end1 or w>p ?read1 9 ! design is requir$ to be lift$ diff]5tly1 a sep>ate /ave is requir$ = ea* end 9 ! design1 b 9 "s patt]ns ?is is n ! case4 ,fig4 #bba is a /ripe design compos$ ( tw5ty ends ( five-%aft sat9 & sixte5 ends pla94 ,! lea/ numb] ( %afts on :i* ?is c\ld be wov5 is sev51 five = ! sat9 & two = ! pla94 ,! numb] ( picks to ! r\nd1 or ! numb] ( picks on :i* ! patt]n repeats is t51 t5 be+ ! lea/ common multiple ( two & five4 ,! draft may be %[n ei!r by rul+ l9es to repres5t ! /aves z at ,fig4 #bbb1 or on po9t pap] z at ,fig4 #bbc4 ,! latt] is ! readi] way1 & is ! way usually practis$4 ,! ord] ( lift+ ! /aves is %[n 9 ! 8pegg+ plan0 7,fig4 #bbd74 ,! t]m 8pegg+0 ref]s1 ( c\rse1 to ! dobby loom2 if ! design is wov5 on a tappet loom1 8tappet plan0 w\ld be a m correct t]m to use4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bba4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bbb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bbc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bbd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bbe4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bbf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bbg4 ,:5 two weaves :i* consi/ ( diff]5t arrangem5ts ( ! same ends are comb9$ 9 /ripe =m1 ! same %afts w d = bo? weaves4 ,fig4 #bbe illu/rates ?is pr9ciple4 ,9 ! design !re are sixte5 ends ( an eight-end twill1 8#b up #b d[n1 #a up #a d[n1 #a up #a d[n10 & sixte5 ends ( a mix$ effect1 :i* is simply a re-arrangem5t ( ! ends ( ! twill4 ,ea* ( ! ends 9 ! crape or mix$ weave c be drawn ?r\gh ! same /ave z "o ( ! ends 9 ! twill1 z w be se5 f ! draft 7,fig4 #bbf7 giv5 ) ?is design1 & ?us ! :ole design c be wov5 ) eight /aves4 ,if ! /aves are lift$ to =m ! twill ) ! fir/ sixte5 ends1 ! diff]5t ord] ( draw+ ! ends 9 ! second "p ( ! draft causes ! desir$ *ange 9 ! patt]n4 ,! pegg+ or lift+ plan 7,fig4 #bbg7 w !re=e be ! fir/ eight ends ( ! twill4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bbh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bbi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bcj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bca4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bcb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bcc4 ,"o ( ! mo/ useful pr9ciples ( draft+ is ! ,v draft1 or po9t draft4 ,fig4 #bbh is a design bas$ ^u ?is pr9ciple2 ! design is repeat$ twice ov] 9 ord] to %[ ! effect bett]1 & x w be se5 t ! basis ( ! patt]n is a 8f\r & f\r0 twill4 ,! fir/ eight ends are drawn f "r to left1 & by rev]s+ ! draft1 z 9 ,fig4 #bbi1 ! patt]n is made to repeat on f\rte5 ends4 ,! pegg+ plan 7,fig4 #bcj7 w be ! fir/ eight ends & picks ( ! design4 ,! fir/ & eigh? /aves h ea* only "o end out ( ! f\rte5 drawn ?r\gh !m1 :il/ all ! o!r /aves h two ends 9 ea* patt]n4 ,! numb] on ea* /ave c\ld be made equal by mak+ ! patt]n repeat on sixte5 ends & rev]s+ ! draft f ! n9? /ave1 ) an eight-end twill basis4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bcd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bce4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bcf4 ,! ,v draft is us$ 9 a great v>iety ( =ms4 ,x is n only 9 /ripes t x is us$4 ,x is v (t5 employ$ 9 weav+ all-ov] spot effects & diamond patt]ns4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bcg4 ,fig4 #bca %[s ! pr9ciple appli$ to an all-ov] design4 ,! draft 7,fig4 #bcb7 is giv51 %[+ h[ ! ends are drawn ?r\gh ! ?irte5 /aves requir$ to weave ! patt]n1 & ! 8pegg+ plan0 7,fig4 #bcc7 %[s ! ord] ( lift+ ! /aves4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bch4 ,a v effective me?od ( employ+ ?is draft is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #bcd4 ,?is is a /ripe design1 & ! g5]al appe>ance w\ld lead "o to suppose t a l>g] numb] ( /aves are requir$ to weave x ?an ! eighte5 actually requir$4 ,fig4 #bce is ! draft & ,fig4 #bcf ! pegg+ plan = ?is design4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bci4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bdj4 ,ano!r class ( patt]n produc$ by ! ,v draft is ! 8diap]0 /yle4 ,fig4 #bcg is a small design ( ?is k9d1 & x w be notic$ t ! draft 7,fig4 #bch7 plays a v important "p 9 increas+ ! size ( ! patt]n4 ,! draft giv5 %[s h[ ! patt]n w\ld be made on n9ete5 /aves4 ,x is n always advisable to draft a patt]n to its l[e/ numb] ( /aves1 z x is n wor? :ile sav+ "o or two /aves at ! exp5se ( an irregul> draft4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bda4 ,dice ,*ecks4--,fig4 #bci is a simple dice *eck patt]n4 ,alt]nate squ>es ( w>p & weft twill =m ! *eck effect1 & x is necess>y to arrange ! b9d+s s z to cross ea* o!r at ! edges ( ! squ>es1 z o!rwise ! ends w\ld 8slip40 ,fancy dice patt]ns are produc$ by employ+ squ>es ( diff]5t dim5sions4 ,fig4 #bdj is a patt]n ( ?is description4 ,! b9d+s are "h ^? ( an eight-end sat94 ,to obta9 ! cross+ ( ! b9d+ dots at ! edges ( ! squ>es x is necess>y to run ! sat9 9 opposite directions 9 ! w>p & weft squ>es4 ,a /ill m fancy dice effect is giv5 at ,fig4 #bda4 ,! b9d+s are on ! five-end sat9 basis1 & ! blocks ( w>p & weft sat9 are arrang$ s t ! design repeats on fifty ends & picks4 ,x is necess>y 9 ?is class ( b9d+ to comm5ce ! sat9 9 ! position indicat$ 9 ! design4 ,by a judici\s arrangem5t ( ! w>p & weft blocks a l>ge v>iety ( patt]ns c be produc$4 ,! pr9ciple is ext5sively employ$ 9 ! production ( fabrics = bo? ! home & %ipp+ trades4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bdb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bdc4 8,b>ley corn0 patt]ns are a relat$ /yle4 ,! /ructure ( ^! clo?s is %[n at ,figs4 #bdb & #bdc4 ,! =m] patt]n is manufactur$ on an ext5sive scale1 z x is a fabric 9 regul> use = mak+-up purposes4 ,fig4 #bdc has ! weft squ>e r l>g] ?an ! w>p1 & is usually made 9 r a bett] quality ?an ,fig4 #bdb4 ,9 f9e makes ! size ( ! squ>es is (t5 increas$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bdd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bde4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bdf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bdg4 ,illu/ration3 ,twill4 ,,fig4 #bdh4 ,illu/ration3 ,re-arrangem5t4 ,,fig4 #bdi4 ,illu/ration3 ,twill4 ,,fig4 #bej4 ,illu/ration3 ,re-arrangem5t4 ,,fig4 #bea4 ,illu/ration3 ,twill4 ,,fig4 #beb4 ,illu/ration3 ,re-arrangem5t4 ,,fig4 #bec4 ,illu/ration3 ,twill4 ,,fig4 #bed4 ,illu/ration3 ,re-arrangem5t4 ,,fig4 #bee4 ,patt]ns produc$ by ,re-arrangem5ts ( ,twills4--,if ! ends ( any twill be re-arrang$ 9 "s regul> ord]1 ano!r patt]n ( a diff]5t "* is produc$4 ,= example1 by re-arrang+ ! eight-end twill giv5 at ,fig4 #bdd 9 8sat9 ord]0 ! effect at ,fig4 #bde is produc$4 ,! me?od ( re-arrangem5t is to take ! fir/ end ( ! twill design & place x 9 ! fir/ place 9 ! re-arrangem5t4 ,! f\r? end ( ! twill is !n plac$ 9 ! second end ( ! re-arrangem5t1 ! sev5? end ( ! twill 9 ! ?ird place1 & s on1 ! sat9 ord] us$ be+ #a #d1 #g #b1 #e #h1 #c #f4 ,fig4 #bdf re-arrang$ 9 ?is mann] gives ! effect at ,fig4 #bdg1 &1 z w be se5 f ! rema9+ figures 7,figs4 #bdh-bee71 ! effects produc$ by ! re-arrangem5t are all good s]viceable effects :i* are useful = a great _m purposes4 ,) l>g] twills ! effects produc$ are m elaborate & v>i$1 & ! pr9ciple is di/9ctly useful = ! production ( new wov5 effects4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bef4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #beg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #beh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bei4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bfj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bfa4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bfb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bfc4 ,comb9$ twills may also be re-arrang$ 9 ?is mann] = ! production ( new effects4 ,figs4 #bef & #beh are two five-end comb9$ twills1 & ! effect produc$ by re-arrang+ ! ends 9 five-end sat9 ord] is %[n at ,figs4 #beg & #bei1 respectively4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bfd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bfe4 ,fig4 #bfj is an eight-end comb9$ twill1 & ,fig4 #bfa %[s ! effect produc$ by its re-arrangem5t 9 eight-end sat9 ord]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bff4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bfg4 ,fig4 #bfb is a twelve-end comb9$ twill1 & :5 re-arrang$ 9 twelve-end sat9 ord] ,fig4 #bfc is produc$4 ,! effects produc$ by re-arrangem5t 9 sat9 ord] are1 z a rule1 mix$ effects ( a less decid$ "* ?an ! orig9al twill4 ,!re are _m o!r useful sy/ems ( draft+ or re-arrang+ patt]ns4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bfh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bfi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bgj4 ,fig4 #bfe is ! re-arrangem5t ( ,fig4 #bfd 9 ! ord] #a #b1 #f #g1 #c #d1 #h #a1 #e #f1 #b #c1 #g #h1 #d #e4 ,?is is a regul> draft obta9$ by skipp+ ?ree %afts betwe5 ea* two ends4 ,ano!r draft is obta9$ by skipp+ "o end betwe5 ea* two ends drawn ?r\gh ! healds4 ,fig4 #bfg is obta9$ by re-arrang+ ,fig4 #bff 9 ! ord] ( ! draft #a #b1 #d #e1 #g #h1 #b #c1 & s on1 ! draft repeat+ on sixte5 ends4 ,ano!r useful draft 7,fig4 #bgj7 z a basis = re-arrangem5t is ! "o employ$ 9 produc+ ,fig4 #bfi f ,fig4 #bfh4 ,! ord] ( ! draft is %[n along ) ! design2 ! ord] runs1 #b #a1 #c #b1 #d #c1 & s on1 repeat+ on sixte5 ends4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bga4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bgb4 ,"s novel effects are obta9$ by re-arrang+ ! ends ( a sixte5-end twill 9 ! ord] #a #d1 #g #b1 #e #h1 #c #f1 #i #ab1 #ae #aj1 #ac #af1 #aa #ad4 ,! effect ( ?is sy/em is %[n at ,fig4 #bgb1 :i* is ! result ( re-arrang+ ,fig4 #bga 9 ! above ord]4 ,! sy/em is ( c\rse applicable to o!r twills ?an ^? on sixte5 ends4 ,twills comb9$ to =m ,squ>e ,patt]ns4--,simple twills may be comb9$ to =m 8squ>e0 patt]ns by tak+ alt]nate picks ( ea*4 ,if two eight-end twills are comb9$ 9 ?is mann] only f\r picks ( ea* twill w be us$ 9 ! comb9ation4 ,! pr9ciple w be und]/ood f ,fig4 #bgc4 ,?is is a patt]n compos$ ( alt]nate picks ( two t5-end twills mak+ an effect repeat+ on t5 ends & t5 picks4 ,! effect giv5 by re-arrang+ ?is 9 sat9 ord] is %[n at ,fig4 #bgd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bgc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bgd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bge4 ,fig4 #bge is a twelve-end patt]n made on ! same pr9ciple1 & if ?is is re-arrang$ 9 sat9 ord]1 ano!r effect is obta9$4 ,fig4 #bgf is a sixte5-?read patt]n1 & :5 re-arrang$ ?is produces ! r peculi> patt]n ,fig4 #bgg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bgf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bgg4 ,an imm5se v>iety ( useful weaves may be obta9$ on ?is sy/em ( comb9ation1 ! effects be+ p]haps m useful ?an :5 ! patt]ns occupy twice z _m picks z ends4 ,unequal ,twills comb9$4--,"s useful fancy effects are obta9$ by comb9+ two unequal twills 8end & end10 or 8pick & pick40 ,fig4 #bgh %[s ! effect produc$ by comb9+ 8end & end10 a 8?ree & two0 twill1 & 8two & two0 twill4 ,z "o twill repeats on five picks & ! o!r on f\r1 ! comb9$ patt]n w occupy tw5ty picks--tw5ty be+ ! ,l4,c4,m4 ( five & f\r4 ,!re w require to be tw5ty ends ( ea* twill us$ to make up a complete patt]n1 !re=e ! comb9$ design w repeat on =ty ends & tw5ty picks4 ,if a f\r-end twill is comb9$ ) a ?ree-end twill 9 ?is mann]1 ! complete patt]n w\ld occupy tw5ty-f\r ends & twelve picks1 z twelve is ! lea/ numb] ( picks on :i* bo? ! f\r-end & ?ree-end twills repeat4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bgh4 ,*eck ,patt]ns produc$ by ,re-arrangem5t ( ,twills4--,if an eight-end twill 8?ree & five pla90 is re-arrang$ 9 ! ord] #a #d1 #g #b1 #e #h1 #c #f1 ! effect %[n 9 ! squ>e ,a 7,fig4 #bgi71 & if ?is be aga9 re-arrang$ 9 ! same ord]1 ! orig9al twill results4 ,x foll[s1 !re=e1 t by plac+ ! patt]n ,a above ! twill & draw+ ! ends ?r\gh eight /aves z indicat$ 9 ! draft 7,fig4 #bhj71 a *eck patt]n w be =m$4 ,! draft :i* produces ! crape f ! twill also produces ! twill f ! crape4 ,! fir/ eight ends & sixte5 picks ( ! design is ! pegg+ plan4 ,by ! addition ( two extra /aves ! floats may be prev5t$ f pass+ f "o squ>e to ano!r4 ,to produce ! *eck effect prop]ly1 ! sat9 draft mu/ be su* a "o t if ! f\r? end is drawn on ! second /ave1 ! second end mu/ be drawn on ! f\r? /ave4 ,if a sixte5-end sat9 draft is us$ = mak+ a *eck patt]n on ?is pr9ciple f a sixte5-end twill1 ! sat9 draft mu/ be select$ f ^? :i* c be made on sixte5 %afts1 & mu/ be su* a "o t exactly ! same patt]n w be produc$ 9 ! opposite squ>es ( ! *eck4 ,! sixte5-end sat9 :i* gives ?is effect is ! "o made by skipp+ eight ends betwe5 ea* lift4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bgi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhj4 ,honeycomb ,clo?4--,9 ?is /yle ( clo? ! ?reads are int]lac$ s z to =m squ>es1 ! c5tres ( :i* are l[] ?an ! ridges :i* =m ! sides4 ,fig4 #bha is a honeycomb patt]n on t5 ends & t5 picks4 ,x w be notic$ t ! ridges or rais$ portions ( ! honeycomb are =m$ by ! gradually increas+ floats ( ! weft & w>p ?reads4 ,! holl[s are =m$ by ! ?reads weav+ pla9 = a few ends & picks4 ,any size ( patt]n1 )9 reasonable limits1 may be =m$ on ?is pr9ciple4 ,fig4 #bhb is a #af #af honeycomb on ! same pr9ciple4 ,= small] sizes ! pr9ciple requires a little alt]ation4 ,fig4 #bhc is a good #h #h honeycomb1 & gives a fairly good effect ev5 9 l[ makes ( clo?4 ,^! honeycomb weaves are us$ = quilt+s1 t[ell+s1 & = fancy goods ( all k9ds4 ,"s excell5t effects c be produc$ by comb9+ honeycomb ) sat9 or o!r weaves = /rip$ dress goods1 & simil> fabrics4 ,a good effect is giv5 by ! patt]n1 ,fig4 #bhd4 ,! weave requires v ?ick y>ns = giv+ ! be/ effect4 ,! patt]n is rev]sible1 bo? sides ( ! clo? be+ exactly alike4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bha4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhd4 ,mock ,l5os1 or ,lace ,weaves4--,^! weaves are v ext5sively us$ 9 cotton manufacture4 ,! imitation ( l5o fabrics c be made extremely close1 (t5 s close z to deceive ev5 exp]i5c$ buy]s4 ,! simple/ k9d is ! patt]n at ,fig4 #bhe1 a 8?ree & ?ree0 patt]n4 ,! ?reads are int]lac$ 9 su* a mann] t ! fir/ ends are pull$ toge!r by ! second & fif? picks1 & ! picks are pull$ toge!r 9 ?rees by ! second & fif? ends1 & z ! %$ is cross$ betwe5 ! ?ird & f\r? picks1 ! crack 9 ! clo? appe>s !re4 ,! op5 effect is greatly increas$ if ! ends are re$$ 8?ree 9 a d5t10 ! fir/ ?ree ends 9 ! patt]n be+ toge!r 9 "o d5t1 s t ! re$ assi/s 9 =m+ ! op5 effect4 ,sometimes ! ends are re$$ 9 ?rees ) a d5t 8skipp$0 betwe5 ea* full "o1 & ?is greatly augm5ts ! op5 effect4 ,a 8f\r & f\r0 mock l5o is ! weave %[n at ,fig4 #bhf4 ,to produce ! be/ effect ?is requires to be re$$ f\r ends 9 a d5t1 comm5c+ ) ! fir/ f\r ends 9 ! patt]n4 ,9 ?is weave ! crack is made betwe5 ! f\r? & fif? ends & f\r? & fif? picks4 ,! pr9ciple ( ! weave is exactly ! same z 9 ! 8?ree & ?ree0 patt]n1 b a slightly m op5 effect c be obta9$ ) ! 8f\r & f\r0 patt]n4 ,x is also suitable = a f9] make ( clo?1 z ! op5 effect c be made ) a l>g] numb] ( ?reads p] in*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhe4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhh4 ,a 8five & five0 patt]n is giv5 at ,fig4 #bhg4 ,! second1 f\r?1 sev5?1 & n9? ends s]ve to pull ! picks toge!r 9 fives1 & to make a decid$ crack 9 ! clo? betwe5 ! fif? & six? picks 9 ! patt]n4 ,! same ?+ takes place ) ! ends1 !y are pull$ toge!r 9 fives1 by ! second1 f\r?1 sev5?1 & n9? picks4 ,probably ! be/ op5 effect is produc$ by ,fig4 #bhh4 ,?is is call$ a 8five & "o0 mock l5o or lace4 ,to produce ! be/ effect1 ! patt]n %\ld be re$$ z foll[s3-- ,five ends "o d5t1 ,skip a d5t1 ,"o end "o d5t1 ,skip a d5t4 ,two repeats ( ! patt]n are %[n at ,fig4 #bhh1 only six ends & six picks be+ requir$ to weave x4 ,! fir/ five picks are pull$ toge!r by ! second & f\r? ends1 & z ! %$ is cross$ betwe5 ! fif? & six? picks & betwe5 ! six? & ! succe$+ pick1 ! s+le pick ,no4 #f is %[n 9 ! middle ( ! crack betwe5 ! b>s ( five picks4 ,! same ?+ takes place ) ! ends4 ,x is n absolutely necess>y to re$ ! patt]n o!r ?an two 9 a d5t2 an op5 effect is produc$ ) ! ord9>y re$+1 b ! special re$+ greatly increases x4 ,cords4--,cords c be =m$ 9 clo? by simply mak+ a numb] ( ?reads lift toge!r1 z 9 ,fig4 #bhi4 ,! cord may be made across ! piece by putt+ a numb] ( picks 9 a %$1 z %[n at ,fig4 #bij4 ,?is pr9ciple ( =m+ cords has its disadvantages4 ,if ! cord is go+ l5g?wise ( ! piece a l>ge numb] ( picks p] in* is requir$ to give a good & f9e effect1 & !re is always a t5d5cy to %[ a p]=at$ appe>ance 9 cords made on ?is pr9ciple1 ow+ to ! ?reads be+ pull$ toge!r 9 ?rees or f\rs1 or :atev] numb] ( ?reads g to =m a cord4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bhi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bij4 ,a good cord up ! piece may be made by tak+ six or eight ends ( six-end sat9 & two pla9 ends4 ,fig4 #bia is a patt]n ( ?is k9d4 ,! six-end sat9 is us$ because ! pla9 ends w\ld make wrong b9d+s ) a five-end sat9 & ! ends w\ld slip4 ,?is pr9ciple ( mak+ cords is v useful1 z ! effect be+ produc$ f ! w>p1 ! co/ is less ?an if produc$ f ! weft4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bia4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bib4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bic4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bid4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bie4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bif4 ,= dobby patt]ns x is necess>y to keep ! numb] ( %afts z l[ z possible1 & cords requir+ only two %afts above ! pla9 are made z 9 ,figs4 #bib & #bic4 ,fig4 #bid gives a cord across ! piece1 & is ( r a firm] "* ?an an ord9>y f\r & f\r cord4 ,fig4 #bie %[s a useful pr9ciple ( mak+ cords across ! piece4 ,two picks are tak5 toge!r1 & ?ree d\ble picks f a cord4 ,! ?ree pla9 picks s]ve to def9e ! cord4 ,a bett] effect is obta9$ f ,fig4 #bif1 9 :i* ! d\ble picks h a float ( five ends4 ,?is cord is v suitable = /ripes1 z x comb9es extremely well ) w>p sat94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #big4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bih4 ,fig4 #big gives a cord up ! piece4 ,! back ( ! clo? is pla91 ea* pick tak+ an equal "p 9 =m+ ! back4 ,! pla9 also s]ves to spread ! ends1 & s produces a firm] clo? ?an w\ld be obta9$ if ! cord 7 =m$ on ! pr9ciple ( ,fig4 #bii4 ,sometimes ! back ( ! cord is requir$ to be r loos]1 & is wov5 to a small twill4 ,at ,fig4 #bih a twelve-end cord is %[n on ?is pr9ciple1 ) a #b & #a twill patt]n at ! back4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjj4 ,ano!r =m ( cord is illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #bii4 ,?is %[s a cord up ! piece caus$ by e pick int]weav+ ) ! fir/ & second ends1 & only half ! picks int]weav+ ) ! rema9+ six ends4 ,! ends int]weav+ ) half ! picks are loos] ?an ! o!r two ends1 & !re=e h a rais$ appe>ance4 ,! face ( ! clo? is pla91 ) ! l9es =m$ by ! two ends runn+ up ! piece4 ,a small] cord is %[n at ,fig4 #cjj1 :i* repeats on six ends & f\r picks4 ,fig4 #cja is a patt]n compos$ ( cross$ cords4 ,excell5t effects are obta9$ by comb9+ l>g] cords 9 ! same mann]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cja4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cje4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjf4 ,crapes4--,?is is a "n giv5 to weaves ( a small 8se$y0 effect4 ,good effects ( ?is k9d are produc$ by ,figs4 #cjb & #cjc1 :i* repeat on t5 ends & six picks1 & six ends & six picks1 respectively4 ,ano!r v l>gely us$ patt]n is t at ,fig4 #cjd4 ,?is is a patt]n ( r peculi> con/ruction1 z bo? sides ( ! clo? are alike1 & ! small floats ( ?ree are b5t some:at out ( a /raight l9e4 ,! reason = ?is c be se5 by a c>eful exam9ation ( ! patt]n4 ,patt]ns ( ! same "*1 b ) v l>ge repeats1 are (t5 us$4 ,9 _m ( ^! !re is no regul>ity 9 ! con/ruction ( ! patt]n4 ,! *ief object is to get a p]fect all-ov] effect free f l9es or r[s4 ,?is c be accompli%$ by keep+ ab\t ! same am\nt ( float on e pick & di/ribut+ ! floats z ev5ly z possible4 ,a patt]n ( ?is k9d1 on =ty picks & sixte5 ends1 is giv5 at ,fig4 #cje4 ,x w be se5 t ea* pick has two floats on x4 ,fancy ,effects4--,"s novel effects c be produc$ on ! pr9ciple ( ,fig4 #cjf4 ,two picks are float$ on ! top ( a pla9 clo? e t5 picks1 & ^! loose picks are b\nd only by two ends out ( e twelve4 ,! loose picks are pull$ 9 opposite directions by ! loose ends1 & ! result is t small hexagonal figures are =m$ aft] ! mann] %[n at ,fig4 #cjg4 ,by us+ col\r$ ends & picks = ! loose ones a /ill bett] effect is obta9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cjh4 ,crimp ,/ripes4--,^! are usually produc$ by hav+ two w>ps at diff]5t t5sions4 ,! w>p to weave ! crimp is lightly weight$ z comp>$ ) ! w>p ( ! o!r /ripe1 :i* may be pla9 or sat9 z desir$1 & is let (f int]mitt5tly4 ,if ! crimp w>p is v h>d twi/$ ! effect is increas$4 ,fig4 #cjh is ! design ( a crimp /ripe ( r a novel "*4 ,! ends wov5 entirely pla9 are on a beam lightly weight$1 :il/ ! o!r ends are heavily weight$4 ,! fir/ two picks are ( ord9>ily twi/$ weft1 & ! ?ird & f\r? picks are v h>d twi/$4 ,^! picks are ?r[n to ! back1 & take no "p 9 =m+ ! clo? 9 "o portion ( x4 ,! consequ5ce is t ^! picks1 loose at ! back ( ! clo?1 & be+ v h>d twi/$1 pull ! two edges ( ! /ripe clos] toge!r1 & ?us =m a crimp or 8tuck0 ! l5g? ( ! piece4 ,! pla9 ends =m a crimp 9 ! ord9>y mann]1 ow+ to be+ lightly weight$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cji4 ,huck ,patt]ns4--,?is is ! "n giv5 to a class ( patt]ns us$ = t[ell+s4 ,! object is to get a firm clo? ) a r\gh surface4 ,fig4 #cji is a weave ( ?is description1 b !re are _m o!rs 9 use4 ,! patt]n repeats on t5 ends & eight picks1 & c be draft$ d[n to be wov5 on five %afts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #caj4 ,extra ,w>p4--,:5 "s w>p ends are us$ = figur+ )\t tak+ any "p 9 =m+ ! gr\nd or body ( ! fabric1 !y are t]m$ 8extra w>p0 ?reads4 ,! pr9ciple is mu* us$ = putt+ col\r$ spots or figures on gr\nds ( a diff]5t col\r or mat]ial4 ,9 ,fig4 #caj ! ends on :i* ! black squ>es occur are 8extra ends10 z !y take no "p 9 =m+ ! gr\nd ( ! fabric4 ,9 ?is figure ! black squ>es repres5t ! w>p lift$4 ,:]e ! extra w>p is n =m+ ! figure x is ?r[n to ! back ( ! clo?1 :]e x hangs loosely unless x c be b\nd into ! gr\nd clo? or cut (f4 ,two or ?ree diff]5tly col\r$ spots may be =m$ "o above ! o!r4 ,fig4 #caa w %[ ! pr9ciple ( ?is4 ,! gr\nd ( ! clo? is pla91 & ^! ends are di/+ui%$ by ! small dots 9 ! design4 ,! fir/ & second ends 9 ! design are suppos$ to be ( diff]5t col\rs4 ,?is design w repeat on =ty picks1 & any desir$ numb] ( ends may be us$ betwe5 ea* /ripe = ! gr\nd4 ,! extra w>p mu/ be put 8extra0 9 ! re$1 s t1 suppos+ !re are two ends 9 a d5t 9 ! gr\nd1 !re w\ld be six 9 a d5t :]e ! two extra w>ps occur4 ,! pr9ciple is useful = obta9+ a l>ge wid? ( patt]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #caa4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cab4 ,! extra ends may be ( ! same col\r z ! gr\nd1 b ( ?ick] mat]ial1 & may be us$ ) ! object ( increas+ ! wid? ( ! patt]n4 ,fig4 #cab is a small /rip$ design illu/rat+ ?is pr9ciple4 ,! gr\nd is pla91 & ! extra w>p ?reads1 if ( suffici5t ?ickness1 give a bold well-cov]$ figure1 :i* enables ! design to be wov5 on n9e %afts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cac4 ,extra ,weft4--,extra weft spots may be wov5 on exactly ! same pr9ciple by tak+ ! weft 8extra0 in/ead ( ! w>p4 ,fig4 #cac is a small spot design on ! 8extra weft0 pr9ciple4 ,! clo? w\ld require to h twice z _m picks p] in* z !re are ends p] in*4 ,! gr\nd may be ei!r pla91 twill1 or sat91 b if x is requir$ to b9d ! extra mat]ial a twill is pref]able4 ,fig4 #cad is ! comm5cem5t ( a small design = an extra weft figure on a 8two & two0 twill gr\nd1 %[+ h[ ! extra weft may be b\nd to ! gr\nd ( ! fabric )\t %[+ ?r\gh to ! face4 ,! extra weft may be br\ght up "u ! weft floats ( ! twill1 & if a fair quantity ( mat]ial is us$ ! b9d+ w n be visible on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cad4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cae4 ,x is impossible to b9d extra weft to a pla9 gr\nd or to a w>p sat9 gr\nd 9 ! ord9>y mann]1 z !re is no float to hide ! b9d+ "u4 ,x may1 h[ev]1 be b\nd to a w>p sat9 gr\nd by means ( /it*+ ?reads1 aft] ! mann] %[n 9 ,fig4 #cae4 ,?is is an extra weft spot on a w>p twill gr\nd1 & ! loose picks at ! back ( ! clo? are b\nd by ! /it*+ ?read ,a4 ,?is ?read is really an extra w>p ?read1 & x is lift$ 9 su* a position t ! b9d+ is hidd5 "u ! w>p floats ( ! twill gr\nd4 ,"o ( ^! ?reads may be us$ at int]vals ( an eigh? to a qu>t] ( an in*4 ,9 b9d+ extra w>p ! same pr9ciple applies4 ,extra w>p may be b\nd to a w>p gr\nd by lift+ x betwe5 two w>p floats1 or x may be b\nd to a weft gr\nd by us+ an extra /it*+ pick on ! pr9ciple illu/rat$ 9 ,fig4 #cae4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #caf4 ,extra w>p or weft is (t5 us$ to produce a solid figure on a light or op5 gr\nd4 ,fig4 #caf is a small design ( ?is k9d1 9 :i* "o half ! picks are ?r[n out ( ! clo? 9 ! gr\nd ( ! patt]n4 ,! design gives a v close imitation ( a figur$ l5o clo?1 if wov5 ) suitable y>ns4 ,to obta9 a good effect !re %\ld be at lea/ twice ! numb] ( picks p] in* t !re are ends or w>p ?reads4 ,:5 ! clo? is tak5 out ( ! loom ! loose ?reads are clipp$ & pass$ ?r\gh a %e>+ ma*9e1 :]e ! loose ?reads are cut (f close to ! figure4 ,! extra picks %\ld be b\nd r\nd ! figure by weav+ pla9 = a few ends1 to prev5t ! extra mat]ial be+ pull$ out ( ! figure 9 clipp+ or %e>+4 ,extra ,w>p & ,extra ,weft comb9$4--,:]e extra w>p & extra weft are us$ toge!r 9 ! same "p ( ! design1 ! /ructure is a little m complicat$4 ,a small *eck patt]n ( ?is description is giv5 at ,fig4 #cag4 ,e alt]nate end & e alt]nate pick are extra1 & all ! ev5 numb]$ ends & picks belong to ! gr\nd clo?1 :i* 9 ?is case is wov5 pla94 ,9 mak+ designs employ+ bo? extra w>p & weft1 x is advisable to put ! dots ( ! gr\nd weave on ! po9t pap] fir/4 ,!n dots may be put on to lift ! extra w>p :]e x is requir$ to =m ! figure1 & if x is requir$ to ?r[ ! extra weft to ! back ( ! gr\nd clo? :5 ! extra w>p is on ! face1 ! gr\nd ends mu/ be lift$ on ! extra weft picks :]e requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cag4 ,9 ,fig4 #cag ! gr\nd weave is %[n 9 solid squ>es2 ! extra w>p is lift$ by ! small circles1 & ! extra weft is ?r[n to ! back ( ! pla9 clo? by ! small dots1 :i* lift all ! gr\nd ends on ! extra picks :]e ! extra w>p is lift$4 ,?is design is made = s+le picks1 b 9 ! majority ( looms !re are only *ange boxes at "o side1 & s ! design mu/ be arrang$ = two picks alt]nately ( gr\nd & extra weft4 ,d\ble ,weft ,face4--,d\ble weft-fac$ clo?s are made on ! pr9ciple %[n at ,fig4 #cah4 ,!re is a face weft & a back+ weft1 & bo? sides ( ! clo? may be made alike by us+ only "o c\nt ( weft4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cah4 ,! patt]n is a f\r & "o twill = bo? face & back1 & x is important t ! b9d+ %\ld take place "u ! floats ( ! twill1 aft] ! mann] describ$ 9 b9d+ extra weft4 ,! face patt]n may be diff]5t f ! back1 b x is n possible to back a clo? ) e patt]n on ?is pr9ciple1 z ! b9d+ mu/ n %[ ?r\gh to ! face1 & !re=e ! back patt]n mu/ be select$ s z to give ?is result4 ,fig4 #cai is an eight-end twill back$ ) weft1 ! back patt]n 9 ?is case be+ a 8sev5 & "o0 twill4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cai4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cba4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbb4 ,suppose x is desir$ to put a weft back to ! patt]n1 ,fig4 #cbj1 & to h two face picks to "o back pick4 ,! face patt]n mu/ be put on ! face picks z 9 ,fig4 #cba1 & ! back patt]n mu/ !n be put on 9 su* a mann] t :]e ! back+ weft is pass+ ov] "o ( ! w>p ?reads !re mu/ be at lea/ "o weft dot above & bel[ x1 z 9 ,fig4 #cba4 ,two wefts ( diff]5t col\rs may be made to =m rev]sible figures by mak+ !m *ange places1 fir/ "o be+ on ! face1 & !n ! o!r4 ,! pr9ciple is %[n at ,fig4 #cbb1 :]e ! alt]nate picks are ( diff]5t col\rs4 ,! two wefts %\ld be ?ick en\gh to cov] well1 & a f9e w>p %\ld be us$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbe4 ,d\ble ,w>p ,face4--,?is is ! same z 8d\ble weft face0 weav+1 ) ! exception t two w>ps are us$ in/ead ( two wefts4 ,a f\r & "o twill back$ ) w>p is %[n at ,fig4 #cbc4 ,x is necess>y to h ! w>p ?reads close en\gh toge!r to hide ! b9d+s4 ,fancy patt]ns may be back$ ) w>p by b9d+ ! back+ w>p "u w>p floats 9 ! face clo?4 ,corkscrew twills are ^? :i* h a w>p face on bo? sides ( ! clo?4 ,! weave is *iefly us$ 9 ! manufacture ( wor/$ coat+s1 & simil> goods1 b is (t5 employ$ 9 cotton designs4 ,an elev5-?read corkscrew is giv5 at ,fig4 #cbd1 & a fifte5-?read patt]n is giv5 at ,fig4 #cbe4 ,! weave requires a l>ge numb] ( w>p ?reads p] in* to give a good effect4 ,padd$ ,clo?s4--,to obta9 a rais$ effect on cords or figures1 ?ick weft may be ins]t$ betwe5 ! face & back clo?1 or betwe5 ! face clo? & back+ ends :5 !re is no back+ weft us$4 ,?is ?ick weft takes no "p 9 =m+ ei!r ! face or back clo?1 & is simply held 9 position by ! b9d+ ( ! back+ mat]ial to ! face clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbf4 ,a simple example ( ?is pr9ciple ( weav+ is giv5 at ,fig4 #cbf4 ,?is patt]n may be wov5 ) "o %uttle1 & a f9e rais$ cord across ! piece is =m$4 ,! back+ w>p ?reads1 on :i* ! solid squ>es are plac$1 %\ld be on a sep>ate beam1 & %\ld be heavily weight$ z comp>$ ) ! o!r ends4 ,all ! m>ks 9 ! design repres5t ! w>p lift$1 s t ! empty squ>es repres5t w>p left d[n4 ,x w be notic$ t ! heavily-weight$ ends are only lift$ = two picks 9 e t51 & ?is =ms a cord effect4 ,!re are ?ree picks 9 ea* cord :i* d n int]weave ) ei!r ! face or back+ ends1 b !y s]ve to increase ! boldness ( ! cord by giv+ x a rais$ appe>ance4 ,! ?ree picks :i* =m ! padd+ are ! second1 f\r?1 & six? 9 ! design4 ,! section at ,fig4 #cbg w bett] expla9 ! pr9ciple ( ! patt]n4 ,!re are five pla9 picks 9 ! cord1 two pla9 picks betwe5 ! cords1 & ?ree padd+ picks1 mak+ altoge!r t5 to ! r\nd4 ,^! clo?s are kn[n z ,piqus4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbh4 ,ano!r padd$ effect is giv5 at ,fig4 #cbh4 ,! d\ble pick is ! padd+ weft1 & %\ld be ( ?ick mat]ial4 ,! pla9 face clo? is develop$ 9 small dots1 & ! back+ ends 9 solid squ>es4 ,! padd+ picks 9 ?is patt]n are pull$ out ( a /raight l9e1 & a diamond effect is produc$ on ! clo?4 ,d\ble ,clo?s4--,d\ble-w>p-face & d\ble-weft-face clo?s are usually class$ z d\ble clo?s1 b !y are ess5tially diff]5t f d\ble clo?s made f two w>ps & two wefts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cbi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ccj4 ,figs4 #cbi & #ccj w %[ h[ two sep>ate clo?s1 "o above ! o!r1 c be wov5 9 "o loom4 ,! fir/ figure %[s "o ( ! face ends only lift$1 & a pick be+ put 9 ! face or top clo?4 ,x w be notic$ t bo? back ends are 9 ?is case d[n along ) "o ( ! face ends4 ,! second figure %[s bo? face ends lift$ & "o ( ! back ends1 :il/ a pick is be+ put 9 ! back clo?4 ,two sep>ate clo?s ( any patt]n may be wov5 by simply lift+ ! face ends out ( ! way :5 a pick is be+ put 9 ! back clo?4 ,if a pick is put 9 ! face & back clo? alt]nately1 ! clo?s w be b\nd toge!r at bo? selv$ges2 b if two picks are put 9 ea* clo? alt]nately1 !y are only b\nd at "o side4 ,?is w be se5 f ,figs4 #cca & #ccb4 ,9 ! =m] ! pick passes f ! face clo? to ! back clo? at "o side1 & f ! back clo? to ! face clo? at ! o!r side ( ! loom4 ,9 ,fig4 #ccb two picks are put 9 ea* clo? 9 succession1 & ! clo? w op5 out to d\ble ! wid? ( ! loom4 ,! =m] pr9ciple is us$ = weav+ sacks1 meat-bags1 & seamless pill[-cases4 ,9 putt+ d\ble clo?s on po9t pap] x is usual to use diff]5t col\rs or m>ks = ! face & back clo?s respectively1 & also = lift+ ! face clo? :5 weav+ 9 ! back "o4 ,x is also advisable to always take ! dott$ squ>es z w>p lift$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,figs4 #cca1 #ccb4 ,! foll[+ directions = d\ble clo? design+ w be f\nd useful4 ,fir/ m>k (f ! face & back ends & picks respectively4 ,!n on ! face ends & face picks put ! face patt]n1 & on ! back ends & back picks put ! back patt]n4 ,on e back pick lift e face end4 ,?is w make ! two clo?s sep>ate4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ccc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ccd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cce4 ,fig4 #ccc is ! design = two sep>ate pla9 clo?s b\nd at bo? sides ( ! loom1 & ,fig4 #ccd is ! patt]n = ! clo?s b\nd only at "o side4 ,! face & back clo?s may be ( diff]5t patt]ns1 & b\nd toge!r to =m "o ?ick fabric4 ,fig4 #cce is a design = a d\ble clo? ) a two & two twill face & a pla9 back4 ,! design is end & end1 & pick & pick4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ccf4 ,! b9d+ ( ! two clo?s toge!r is a v important matt]4 ,x mu/ be done 9 su* a mann] t ! b9d+s are n visible on ! face ( ! fabric4 ,to f9d ! be/ position = b9d+ ! two clo?s toge!r x is g5]ally advisable to make a section %[+ ! fir/ two picks 9 ! patt]n1 z at ,fig4 #ccf4 ,a position c !n be f\nd = pass+ a back pick ov] a face end :]e ! floats ( weft 9 ! face patt]n w hide ! b9d+4 ,x w be se5 t ?is c be done effectually by pass+ ! back pick ov] ! f\r? face end1 & s 9 ! design ! f\r? face end is n lift$ :5 ! fir/ back pick is be+ put 94 ,sometimes ! face clo? is requir$ to be mu* f9] ?an ! back1 & s !re may be two face ends & two face picks to "o back end & "o back pick4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ccg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cch4 ,figs4 #ccg & #cch %[ a design = a fabric ( ?is description1 ! face patt]n be+ a two & two twill1 & ! back pla94 ,be=e comm5c+ to put ! design on pap]1 x is be/ to make a section %[+ 9 :at relative positions x is propos$ to />t ! two patt]ns1 & s enable ! weaves to be plac$ 9 su* positions t a satisfactory b9d+ is possible4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cci4 ,fig4 #cci %[s h[ ! b9d+ may be effect$ by plac+ ! two patt]ns 9 a c]ta9 position 9 relation to ea* o!r4 ,! b9d+ 9 ?is1 z 9 ! previ\s case1 is made by pass+ a back pick ov] a face end4 ,! b9d+ may also be made by lift+ a back end ov] a face pick :]e ! w>p floats 9 ! face clo? w\ld cov] x4 ,a design illu/rat+ ?is k9d ( b9d+ is giv5 at ,fig4 #cdj4 ,! face patt]n is a 8f\r & f\r0 twill & ! back a two & two twill1 & !re are two ?reads ( face to "o ( back4 ,! two clo?s are b\nd toge!r by lift+ ! fir/ back end on ! fir/ face pick :]e ! b9d+ dot comes betwe5 two w>p floats4 ,! full squ>es 9 ! figure repres5t ! face ends lift$2 ! small dots repres5t ! back ends lift$2 & ! circles %[ all ! face ends lift$ on ! back picks1 :i* keep ! two clo?s q sep>ate4 ,! cross on ! fir/ pick effects ! b9d+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdj4 ,! "q z to :i* is ! bett] sy/em ( b9d+ dep5ds ^u ! "* ( ! two clo?s4 ,if ! face weft cov]s bett] ?an ! w>p1 x is ! bett] way to b9d by pass+ ! back pick ov] a face end1 :]eas if ! face w>p cov]s bett] ?an ! weft1 a back end lift$ ov] a face pick is pref]able4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cda4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdb4 ,?ree-1 & m ply ,clo?s4--,any numb] ( clo?s may be wov5 sep>ately1 "o above ! o!r1 or sev]al may be b\nd toge!r to =m a v ?ick fabric4 ,fig4 #cda is a design = weav+ f\r pla9 clo?s1 "o above ! o!r1 & if ! picks are wov5 9 ! ord] giv5 9 ! design x w weave a clo? f\r times ! wid? ( ! loom :5 op5$ out4 ,! passage ( ! weft f "o clo? to ! o!r is %[n at ,fig4 #cdb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdd4 ,figur$ ,d\ble ,pla9 ,clo?s4--,if ! w>p be tak5 ) alt]nate ends ( two col\rs & pick$ 9 ! same mann]1 figures1 *ecks1 or /ripes c be =m$ by weav+ two sep>ate clo?s ( ! diff]5t col\r$ y>ns1 mak+ bo? clo?s solid col\r1 & mak+ !m *ange places s z to =m ! desir$ figure4 ,fig4 #cdc is a design = a small *eck patt]n on ?is pr9ciple4 ,! odd ends & picks are1 we w suppose1 black2 & ! ev5 numb]$ ends & picks :ite4 ,x w be se5 t 9 ! bottom left-h& squ>e ( eight ends & picks1 ! lift+ m>ks = lift+ ! face clo? out ( ! way :5 weav+ 9 ! back clo? are put on ! black ends & :ite picks1 & !re=e ! black clo? is lift$ to ! face 9 ?is squ>e4 ,on ! opposite squ>e ( eight ends & picks1 ! lift+ m>ks = sep>at+ ! two clo?s are put ^u ! :ite ends & black picks1 & !re=e ! :ite clo? is "h made ! face clo?4 ,by br++ ei!r ! black or :ite clo? to ! face1 any figure may be =m$1 & ! surface ( ! fabric is q pla91 :i* = "s purposes is mu* pref]able to float$ figures4 ,! weave us$ may be a twill or sat9 in/ead ( pla91 if desir$1 or ! two clo?s may be ( diff]5t weaves1 & "o br\ght ?r\gh ! o!r to =m a figure4 ,fig4 #cdd is a design = a small spot patt]n on ! d\ble pla9 pr9ciple4 ,! ?reads %\ld be 8end & end0 & 8pick & pick0 ( diff]5t col\rs1 ! fir/ end & fir/ pick be+1 we w suppose1 black1 & ! ?reads = ! second clo? be+ :ite4 ,! lift+ m>ks = br++ ! back clo? to ! face are ! solid squ>es1 :il/ ! :ite clo? is br\ght to ! top by ! circles4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cde4 ,if all ! black ends & picks are br\ght toge!r & all ! :ite ends & picks br\ght toge!r1 ! patt]n ( bo? sides ( ! clo? c pla9ly be se5 z well z ! gr\nd weave4 ,fig4 #cde w %[ ?is4 ,! face patt]n is %[n on ! fir/ sixte5 ends & picks1 & ! back patt]n on ! second sixte5 ends & picks1 :il/ ! gr\nd weave is %[n = bo? clo?s 9 ! opposite corn] squ>es4 ,! patt]ns may be design$ 9 ?is mann]1 & ! full effect produc$ by arrang+ ! draft s z to give ! requir$ effect 9 ! clo?4 ,"s f9e effects may be obta9$ by ins]t+ a ?ick end 9 ! =m ( padd+ betwe5 two pla9 clo?s1 & b9d+ ! clo?s toge!r s z to make ! ?ick end =m a cord4 ,! cords may run ei!r l5g?wise or across ! piece4 ,fig4 #cdf is a section %[+ h[ ! cord is =m$ by ! ?ick end com+ betwe5 ! two clo?s )\t int]weav+ ) ei!r ( !m1 & ,fig4 #cdg %[s h[ ! po9t pap] design is made4 ,! end on :i* ! crosses are plac$ is ! ?ick ?read :i* is us$ = padd+1 & ! f\r ends at ea* side ( ?is are ! two sep>ate pla9 clo?s4 ,at ea* side ( ?is !re are two ends %[+ :]e ! two clo?s *ange places1 & s b9d ! ?ick end betwe5 ! clo?s & =m ! cord4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdg4 ,d\ble pla9 clo?s may be b\nd toge!r by us+ suffici5t mat]ial to cov] well1 b ! b9d+ is difficult to make )\t be+ visible4 ,?is pr9ciple ( b9d+ is %[n at ,figs4 #cih & #cii4 ,l5o ,fabrics4--,9 a previ\s *apt] ! me?od ( int]lac+ ! ?reads 9 simple gauze has be5 %[n4 ,) ! two /aves & "o d\p requir$ to weave gauze a consid]able v>iety ( patt]ns c be wov54 ,a 8five & "o cross-ov]0 has already be5 giv51 b x w be obvi\s t ! numb] ( pla9 picks 9 ea* b> ( ! cross-ov] may be any odd numb]4 ,a 8sev5 & "o10 8elev5 & "o10 & s on1 are regul> weaves4 ,:]e ! cross+ ?read weaves pla9 fir/ at "o side & !n ! o!r ( ! /&>d end1 a simple crack is made 9 ! clo? betwe5 ! b>s ( pla91 & !re is no s+le pick 9 ! middle ( ! crack4 ,! mo/ common patt]n ( ?is description is a 8five & five cross-ov]20 a plan1 draft1 & pegg+-plan ( ?is patt]n is %[n at ,fig4 #cdh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdh4 ,9 all ^! fabrics ! effect is decid$ly ( an op5 or transp>5t nature4 ,9 "s l5o fabrics ! object is n to get an op5 effect b to get zigzag effects by cross+ a ?ick end ov] a few pla9 ends4 ,a simple patt]n ( ?is k9d 0 giv5 at ,fig4 #aci 9 deal+ ) l5o weav+1 b ! effect may be v>i$ by mak+ ! cross+s at irregul> int]vals4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cdi4 ,fig4 #cdi is a fancy cross+ 9 :i* ! ?ick d\p end is cross+ ov] ?ree d\ble pla9 ends4 ,fig4 #cej is ano!r fancy effect on ! same pr9ciple4 ,! m>ks on ! pla9 ends %[ :5 ^! ends are lift$4 ,:5 ! ?ick cross+ ends all "w 9 ! same direction a 8wave0 effect is produc$1 :i* is (t5 employ$ 9 conjunction ) ! 8diamond0 or 8eye0 effect1 obta9$ f ! opposite work+ ( ! two ?ick ends4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cej4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cea4 ,by us+ two d\ps a great v>iety ( effect c be obta9$4 ,fig4 #cea %[s a me?od mu* practis$ ( mak+ ! picks b5d out ( a /raight l9e4 ,x is obvi\s t ?is w require two d\ps1 because "o d\p ?read has to be lift$ = ! fir/ six picks1 & ! o!r d\p ?read does n lift until ! f\r? pick 9 ! patt]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ceb4 ,*eck ,l5os4--,:]e alt]nate squ>es ( l5o & pla9 are requir$ to be wov51 x is necess>y to h two d\ps if ! l5o is requir$ to be wov5 f\r ends 9 a d5t1 ) two ends cross+ two1 z 9 ,fig4 #ceb4 ,x has be5 %[n h[ a *eck l5o or gauze c be wov5 ) only "o d\p at ,fig4 #add1 b ! pr9ciple only applies to pure gauze1 or "o end cross+ "o4 ,! draft & pegg+ plan = weav+ a small *eck on ! pr9ciple ( ,fig4 #ceb is giv5 at ,fig4 #cec1 :]e x w be se5 t eight %afts or /aves are requir$ ) two d\ps & two slack5]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cec4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ced4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cee4 ,= dobby weav+1 ! l5o pr9ciple is *iefly us$ 9 ! production ( /rip$ fabrics4 ,"o ( ! mo/ popul> classes ( fabrics is a comb9ation ( ! ?ick zigzag effect ) an op5 l5o effect ( any k9d4 ,fig4 #ced is an example ( ?is comb9$ /yle1 ! /ripe c ei!r be wov5 ) a sat9 or pla9 gr\nd fabric4 ,) ?ree d\ps "s v elaborate effects c be obta9$1 b ! increas$ co/ is r prohibitive4 ,a ?ick end c be cross$ r\nd a pair ( ends weav+ l5o1 z 9 ,fig4 #cee4 ,x is necess>y to br+ ! end f ! back /ave r\nd ! d\p ,b be=e cross+ "u ! pair ( l5o ends1 z ?is w\ld make ! cross+ easi]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cef4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ceg4 ,weft ,pile ,fabrics1 ,velvets1 & ,corduroys4--,practically all cotton velvets are wov5 on ! weft pile pr9ciple4 ,! intricate nature ( ! loom requir$ = weav+ w>p cut-pile prev5ts its adoption = cotton pile fabrics4 ,!re is no d\bt t a w>p pile wov5 ov] wires is sup]ior to any weft pile fabric1 all ! pile be+ p]fectly ev54 ,! pr9ciple ^u :i* weft pile is =m$ is illu/rat$ at ,figs4 #cef & #ceg1 ! =m] %[+ ! pile uncut1 & ! latt] cut4 ,9 weft pile fabrics ! pile weft is usually 8extra weft0 issu+ out ( ! gr\nd fabric only betwe5 e pair ( ends4 ,?is =ms grooves or 8races0 9 ! fabric1 :i* all[ ( ! ins]tion ( a 8knife & guide0 :i* cuts ! pile ab\t ! middle ( ! float4 ,at ,fig4 #cef ! gr\nd fabric is pla91 & betwe5 ea* gr\nd pick !re are ?ree pile picks4 ,! fir/ pile pick passes "u ! fir/ end1 ! second pick "u ! ?ird end1 & ! ?ird pick "u ! fif? end1 & if ^! are repeat$ !re are =m$ small grooves = ! cutt]'s knife e two ends4 ,! patt]n is giv5 on po9t pap] at ,fig4 #ceh1 ext5d$ a little 9 ea* direction z ! patt]n repeats on only six ends & eight picks4 ,! gr\nd picks 7pla97 are put on 9 circles4 ,a l>ge numb] ( picks p] in* are requir$2 9 a common make ab\t #bfj picks p] in* ( #fj's weft are us$1 & ab\t #gd w>p ?reads p] in*1 ! c\nts ( w>p be+ usually #b-gj's4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ceh4 ,if !re are #bfj picks p] in*1 & "o pick out ( e f\r belongs to ! pla9 gr\nd fabric or 8back10 z x is sometimes call$1 !re w be sixty-five picks p] in* 9 ! pla91 & ! pile weft is 8extra0 mat]ial =m+ grooves = ! cutt]'s knife on ! face ( ! clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cei4 ,aft] ! clo? is wov5 x is /iff5$1 & /ret*$ 9 a frame = cutt+4 ,fig4 #cei %[s ! k9d ( knife us$ = ?is purpose4 ,! guide ,a is select$ s z to fit "u ! float easily & lift ! c5tre ( ! float to ! cutt+ edge ,b4 ,! cutt] ins]ts ! knife & guide e two ends or 8race10 & ?us 9 a common velvet1 z at ,fig4 #ceh1 "o-?ird ( ! pile picks are cut ea* "t ! knife is run up ! piece4 ,! arr[s %[ ! ends :]e ! knife is ins]t$4 ,ma*9e cutt+ is n[ adopt$ to "s ext5t = velvets4 ,! piece is mov$ backw>ds & =w>ds automatically1 & s ! cutt] does n require to walk ! l5g? ( ! frame e "t ! knife is run up ! piece4 ,! t]m velvet is us$ by retail]s & ! g5]al public z ref]r+ to silk velvet1 & by !m all cotton pile fabrics are t]m$ velvete5s2 b 9 ! trade ! light] & f9] classes ( cotton weft pile fabrics are velvets1 & ! heavi] k9ds1 su* z ^? us$ = clo?+ purposes1 are call$ 8velvete5s40 ,!re is no v def9ite l9e drawn betwe5 ! two classes4 ,velvets are usually sold by weight :5 9 ! grey /ate4 ,! patt]n giv5 at ,fig4 #cbi is made to weigh f #ah lbs4 to #cj lbs4 = #ajj or #aaj y>ds1 #bd in*es wide1 ! y>ns be+ z previ\sly /at$1 & ! v>i\s weights obta9$ by alt]+ ! numb] ( picks p] in*4 ,ab\t #be lbs4 p] #aaj y>ds is a m$ium weight4 ,! usual wid? = home trade velvets is #bd in*es 7grey71 b = %ipp+ #bb in*es is a v common wid?4 ,! pieces are usually wov5 two or ?ree 9 a wid? ( ! loom1 & aft]w>ds torn asund]4 ,! l5g? ( ! pile may be increas$ by increas+ ! l5g? ( ! float4 ,fig4 #cfj is a patt]n ) a sev5 float1 & f\r pile picks to ea* back+1 or gr\nd pick4 ,?is is usually call$ an ,e#a velvet1 a t]m probably h&$ d[n f ! orig9ation ( ! patt]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cfj4 ,until well into ! la/ c5tury ! patt]n ,fig4 #ceh 0 ! only weave us$ 9 ! production ( cotton velvets1 & a pat5t 0 obta9$ = ?is ,e#a velvet1 & ! t]m 8,pat5t0 is /ill regul>ly us$ :5 ref]r+ to velvets ) a long] pile ?an a five float4 ,an ,e#a velvet requires consid]ably m picks p] in* ?an a 8common velvet40 ,a good make w conta9 #djj or m picks p] in* ( #fj's or #gj's weft1 wov5 9 a #gd ,/ockport re$ ) #b-gj's twi/4 ,sometimes ! po9ts :]e ! pile weft int]sects are di/ribut$ 9 sat9 ord] z 9 ,fig4 #cfa1 b ?is makes no appreciable diff]5ce1 z ! picks are s pil$ up on ! top ( ea* o!r t ! b9d+s ( ! f\r pile picks are practically 9 a horizontal l9e 9 ei!r ( ! me?ods giv54 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cfa4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cfb4 ,fig4 #cfb is a design = a velvet ) a n9e float1 & five pile picks to "o back pick or 8b9d]10 z !y are sometimes t]m$4 ,?is w\ld require a /ill l>g] numb] ( picks1 & w\ld easily take #ejj picks p] in* ( #gj's weft4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cfc4 ,a clo? is made ) ! same l5g? ( pile z ! above1 b ) only f\r picks ( pile to ea* back pick4 ,?is patt]n requires fifty picks to complete x1 z w be se5 f ,fig4 #cfc4 ,! pile 9 ?is case w be mu* m firmly b\nd into ! gr\nd clo? ?an is ! case 9 ,fig4 #cfb4 ,fa/ ,pile ,velvets4--,:5 ! pile weft is only b\nd "u "o end x is r liable to we> out1 especially by rubb+ at ! back4 ,to obviate ?is1 ! pile weft is b\nd 9 ! mann] %[n at ,fig4 #cfd1 by :i* x is r5d]$ mu* fa/]4 ,:5 b\nd to ! gr\nd fabric 9 ?is mann] x is kn[n z 8fa/ pile40 ,! me?od ( b9d+ detracts f ! ri*ness ( ! pile obta9$ f a giv5 quantity ( mat]ial1 b ! fabric possesses mu* bett] we>+ qualities4 ,fig4 #cfe %[s ! /ructure ( an ord9>y fa/ pile velvet ) a pla9 gr\nd1 & f\r pile picks to ea* back pick4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cfd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cfe4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cff4 ,a regul> make ( ?is fabric is z foll[s3 ,wid? #bf in*es1 l5g? #ajd y>ds1 weight #cj to #cd lbs4 #gf re$1 #dbj picks p] in*1 #b-gj's twi/1 #ej's weft4 ,twill ,back$ ,velvets4--,"s ( ! f9e/ k9ds ( velvet are made ) a twill back4 ,! *ief advantage ( a twill back ov] a pla9 is t ! b9d+s ( ! pile weft into ! gr\nd are hidd5 by ! twill floats at ! back4 ,?is r5d]s ! pile mu* fa/] ?an a common velvet2 9 fact1 twill backs are usually sold z fa/ pile velvets4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cfg4 ,fig4 #cff is a section %[+ ! /ructure ( ! fabric1 & x w be easily und]/ood t ! pile _c be s easily pull$ out at ! back1 ow+ to ! weft cov]+ ! b9d+s4 ,fig4 #cfg is ! design = a good make ( ?is k9d ( velvet1 ! back is a two & "o twill1 & ! pile weft floats ov] elev5 ends4 ,an important ?+ to rememb] ab\t twill backs is1 t ! pile pick foll[+ a back pick mu/ h ! dot opposite a blank squ>e 9 ! back pick4 ,if ?is 7 n s1 ! picks w\ld slip ab\t & =m an irregul> surface4 ,9 ! weave "u notice1 five pile picks are tak5 betwe5 ! fir/ two back picks1 two betwe5 ! second & ?ird1 & five betwe5 ! ?ird & fir/4 ,?is enables ! prop] b9d+s to be made4 ,?is weave gives "o ( ! be/ clo?s t are made4 ,x is usually wov5 ) ab\t #fjj picks p] in* ( #fj's weft1 9 a #gf re$ ) a #b-gj's twi/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cfh4 ,ano!r patt]n ( ! same k9d :i* w take /ill m weft is giv5 at ,fig4 #cfh4 ,9 ?is !re are five pile picks to ea* back+ pick1 & ! patt]n repeats on ?irty-six picks4 ,plu%es4--,:5 mu* long] piles are requir$ ! fabric is call$ 8plu%40 ,^! c be made on exactly ! same pr9ciples z ! =ego+1 or ! pr9ciple embodi$ 9 ,fig4 #cfi may be us$4 ,9 ?is weave ! pile is b\nd 9 mu* (t5] ?an 9 ! %ort] pil$ clo?s1 z a long pile is mu* easi] to pull out ?an a %ort "o1 & !re=e requires m firmly b9d+4 ,! gr\nd picks also 9 ?is weave are all alike1 i4e4 !y all pass "u ! same ends1 & ?is does n hold ! pile weft z firmly z a prop] pla9 back1 al?\gh x utilizes ! b9d+ ( ! pile weft z =m+ "p ( ! back patt]n4 ,! b9d+s ( ! f\r pile picks toge!r =m a pla9 pick1 & ! back ( ! clo? ?us appe>s p]fectly pla94 ,to pres]ve an ev5 surface ( pile x is necess>y to di/ribute ! po9ts1 :]e ! fir/ pick 9 ea* f\r comm5ces1 9 sat9 ord]4 ,z !re are 9 ,fig4 #cfi twelve ends on :i* ! pile picks are b\nd1 ! basis ^u :i* ! b9d+s mu/ be di/ribut$ is a twelve-end sat91 :i* runs #a1 #f1 #aa1 #d1 #i1 #b1 #g1 #ab1 #e1 #aj1 #c1 #h4 ,! fir/ pile pick comm5ces to b9d on ! second w>p ?read1 & !re=e ! fir/ pile pick 9 ! second set ( f\r 7! sev5? pick7 mu/ comm5ce to b9d on ! six? ( ! ends available = ! purpose 7! twelf? end74 ,! :ole design w be complete on sixty picks4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cfi4 ,= a long] pile ! weft w\ld require to be b\nd "u m ends1 especially if ! back+ picks are n cross$4 ,cord ,velvets4--,a simple cord velvet c be made on ! pr9ciple ( ,fig4 #cgj4 ,! two pla9 ends on e six b9d all ! pile picks 9 ! =m ( a cord up ! piece1 & !re is "o gr\nd pick to f\r pile picks4 ,! cutt]'s knife is only run up e cord1 & s ! cutt+ op]ation is mu* *eap] & m easily done ?an 9 ! case ( velvets4 ,aft] cutt+1 ! pile is bru%$1 & ! fibres spread out s z to cov] ! space betwe5 ! two b9d+ ends z mu* z possible4 ,an eight-end cord on ! same pr9ciple is giv5 at ,fig4 #cga4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cgj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cga4 ,r\nd cords are made by employ+ floats ( two l5g?s4 ,9 ! previ\s cords all ! floats are equal1 b 9 ,fig4 #cgb "o float is a 8?irte50 & ! o!r a 8fifte540 ,:5 ^! are cut 9 ! middle1 ! %ort float =ms ! outside ( a cord1 & ! long float ! inside1 :i* gives ! cord a r\nd appe>ance4 ,fig4 #cgc %[s ! appe>ance ( ! two pile picks :5 cut4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cgb4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cgc4 ,z a rule1 ^! cords are us$ = v heavy fabrics1 & twill & sat9 backs are *iefly us$1 & z ! pile weft is usually mu* ?ick] ?an velvet weft1 !re are n s _m pile picks betwe5 ! gr\nd picks4 ,a small] cord on ! same pr9ciple is giv5 at ,fig4 #cgd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cgd4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,figur$ ,,design ,9 figur$ fabrics x is mo/ important t ! di/ribution ( ! p>ts ( ! figure %\ld be su* t ! eye is n attract$ by l9es =m$ by ! unequal di/ribution ( ! figure4 ,! objectionable feature is mo/ likely to occur 9 designs ( an all-ov] "*1 z x is almo/ impossible to tell if ! di/ribution is p]fect )\t ext5d+ ! design to cov] a consid]able space4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cge4 ,9 designs :i* consi/ ( set or deta*$ figures1 x is a comp>atively easy matt] to cov] ! surface ( ! fabric equally by di/ribut+ ! figures 9 "s pre-arrang$ ord]4 ,! simple/ me?od ( arrang+ deta*$ figures is to arrange !m 8"o & "o10 z 9 ,fig4 #cge4 ,?is is a small spot arrang$ f two po9ts on twelve ends & twelve picks1 & ! same pr9ciple w apply :atev] ! size ( ! figure4 ,! space to be cov]$1 twelve ends & twelve picks1 is divid$ into two1 bo? 9 w>p & weft1 & x w be notic$ t ! c5tral dot 9 ea* spot is 9 ! same position 9 ea* squ>e ( #f #f4 ,9 designs ( a floral "* ! two figures are g5]ally turn$ 9 diff]5t directions1 & if ! c5tres ( ! figures be prop]ly plac$ !y may be turn$ 9 any direction1 & /ill pres]ve ! equal di/ribution4 ,deta*$ figures may be arrang$ 9 ! ord] ( any sat91 b ! regul> sat9s %[ ! figures too mu* 9 l9es1 & ! sy/em is n mu* practis$ on t acc\nt4 ,irregul> sat9s give mu* bett] effects4 ,fig4 #cgf is a design consi/+ ( six spots arrang$ 9 six-end sat9 ord]1 on ?irty ends & ?irty picks2 ! gr\nd be+ five-end sat94 ,9 mak+ ! design ! space to be cov]$ is divid$ into six p>ts1 bo? 9 w>p & weft1 by ! crosses at ! corn]s ( ! squ>es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cgf4 ,! squ>es are numb]$ at ! side 9 ! ord] ( ! sat91 viz4 #a1 #c1 #e1 #b1 #f1 #d1 & ! fir/ spot is plac$ 9 ! left-h& bottom corn]1 ! c5tral dot ( ! spot be+ plac$ 9 ! c5tre ( its squ>e4 ,! next figure is plac$ 9 ! ?ird squ>e1 on ! second five picks1 ! c5tral dot aga9 be+ plac$ 9 ! middle ( ! squ>e4 ,! ?ird spot is plac$ 9 ! fif? squ>e1 on ! ?ird division ( ! picks2 & s on1 until ! six figures h be5 plac$ on ! ?irty ends & picks4 ,if ! c5tral dot is always plac$ 9 ! correct position 9 ea* division1 ! figures may be turn$ r\nd or plac$ 9 any direction4 ,! gr\nd weave is a five-end sat91 & c>e mu/ always be tak51 9 design+1 t ! ends & picks 9 ! patt]n are a multiple ( ! ends & picks 9 ! gr\nd weave1 or !re w occur a brok5 patt]n at ! jo9+ ( ea* 8repeat40 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cgg4 ,fig4 #cgg is a small spot arrang$ 9 ! ord] ( a regul> eight-end sat9 on sixte5 ends & sixte5 picks4 ,9 mak+ ?is design ! sixte5 ends & picks divid$ into eight w give only two ends & picks = ea* division1 s t if ! c5tral dot ( ! fir/ spot is plac$ on ! ?ird pick1 ! c5tre ( ! next spot w come on ! fif? pick1 & s on4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cgh4 ,z previ\sly /at$1 :5 set figures are di/ribut$ 9 regul> sat9 ord] a /iff appe>ance is giv5 to ! design by ! figures %[+ 9 l9es4 ,x is !re=e necess>y to get "s irregul> ord] z a basis to "w ^u1 :i* w di/ribute ! p>ts ( ! figure equally1 & give a mix$ up appe>ance4 ,a design bas$ ^u an irregul> eight-end plan is giv5 at ,fig4 #cgh4 ,! irregul> sat9 ^u :i* x is bas$ is giv5 at ,fig4 #cgi4 ,! me?od ( con/ruct+ ! design is precisely ! same z 9 ! previ\s examples2 ! space to be cov]$ is divid$ into eight p>ts 9 ea* direction1 & ! figures are arrang$ 9 ! same ord] z ! dots 9 ,fig4 #cgi4 ,if t5 spots or figures are to be arrang$ 9 a design1 an irregul> t5-end sat9 may be us$4 ,9 arrang+ ! ord] c>e mu/ be tak5 to h ! dots ev5ly di/ribut$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cgi4 ,transf]r+ f ,sket* to ,po9t ,pap]4--,9 transf]r+ a design f ! sket* to po9t pap]1 x is usual to rule ! sket* into small squ>es1 ea* squ>e to repres5t sixte5 or tw5ty-f\r ends & picks1 & to m>k ! po9t pap] into squ>es ( ?is numb] ( ends & picks4 ,! outl9e ( ! sket* is !n drawn on ! po9t pap]2 ! squ>es into :i* ! sket* & po9t pap] h be5 divid$ r5d] x a simple matt] to enl>ge ! sket* & pres]ve ! proportions ( ! v>i\s p>ts ( ! design4 ,if ! sket* measures f\r in*es = "o repeat ( ! patt]n1 & ! design is to be made on #djj ends1 & say #ejj picks1 on #h #h po9t pap]1 ! sket* may be rul$ ) lead p5cil into tw5ty-five p>ts 9 ! w>p1 & ! same numb] ( p>ts 9 ! direction ( ! weft4 ,! po9t pap] w\ld !n require to be divid$ into spaces ( sixte5 ends & tw5ty picks4 #djj #ejj --- #af ends --- #bj picks #be #be ,developm5t ( ! ,patt]n4--,:5 ! outl9e ( ! figure has be5 drawn on ! po9t pap]1 x may be col\r$ 94 ,?is is done by go+ ov] ! l9e c>efully & fill+ 9 all ! squ>es t ! outl9e passes ?r\gh4 ,if ! gr\nd ( ! fabric is to be pla91 ! outl9e ( ! figure mu/ be kept pla9--t is1 x mu/ move an odd numb] ( ?reads ea* "t1 s t ! pla9 gr\nd may be c>ri$ up to ! figure )\t spoil+ x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #chj4 ,if a solid weft figure is requir$ on a w>p sat9 gr\nd ! figure may be col\r$ all ov] )1 say1 r$ pa9t1 & ! develop+ dots be put on 9 blue or o!r col\r2 b if mu* %ad+ or fancy treatm5t is requir$1 x is m conv5i5t to develop ! figure 9 "o col\r1 z 9 ,fig4 #chj4 ,"s design]s col\r ! gr\nd ) r$1 & put ! sat9 or o!r dots ov] ?is 9 ano!r col\r1 leav+ ! figure :ite1 & !n develop ! figure by putt+ on ! requir$ r$ dots to lift ! w>p = %ad+ or b9d+4 ,?is me?od is advantage\s :]e !re is m figure ?an gr\nd1 :i* is (t5 ! case2 b1 z a g5]al rule1 ! figure is col\r$ ) r$1 & ! b9d+ dots ( ! gr\nd 9 ! same col\r1 ano!r col\r be+ us$ = ! b9d+ ( ! figure :5 requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cha4 ,fig4 #chj illu/rates ! pr9ciple ( develop+ a weft figure on a w>p sat9 gr\nd by %ad+ f w>p to weft4 ,! outl9e ( ! figure is fir/ sket*$ on ! po9t pap]1 & !n ! :ole is cov]$ ) ! sat9 dots4 ,by add+ s+le dots :]e requir$ any degree ( light & %ade c be obta9$4 ,x is be/ to add ! dots all to ! same side ( ! float1 &1 z a rule1 x is mo/ conv5i5t to add !m s+ly4 ,! effect is obta9$ by gradually increas+ ! float f "o to sev51 & ?us !re are sev5 degrees ( light & %ade betwe5 ! two opposite eight-?read sat9s4 ,fig4 #cha w illu/rate ! pr9ciple ( %ad+ m p]fectly4 ,?is is a small /ripe ( %ad$ eight-end sat94 ,! space to be %ad$ is divid$ into sev5 equal p>ts ( five ?reads ea*1 z !re are sev5 *anges to be made4 ,! fir/ five ends are left z !y are1 & a dot is add$ to ea* "o 9 ! second division1 two dots are add$ to ea* 9 ! ?ird division1 & s on1 until ! float ( sev5 is rea*$ at ! "r-h& side ( ! /ripe4 ,9 a five-%aft sat9 !re are only f\r possible *anges1 & !re=e ?is is n ( mu* use = figur$ design 9 cotton goods4 ,! l>g] sat9s1 su* z eight1 t51 & twelve-%aft sat9s1 are mo/ useful = ?is purpose4 ,twills may be %ad$ 9 ! same mann] z sat9s by gradually add+ to ! float ( a w>p twill until a weft twill is rea*$4 ,sat9 figures are some:at flat & indi/9ct :5 wov5 ) grey w>p & weft1 & !re=e 9 cotton fabrics ! figures are m (t5 develop$ 9 twill or fancy weaves ( a bold "*1 unless col\r$ y>ns are us$4 ,! be/ effect is obta9$ :5 a numb] ( diff]5t weaves are employ$ 9 develop+ a design2 ! v>iety 9 itself prev5ts any appe>ance ( flatness1 :i* a design develop$ entirely 9 sat9 or twill possesses1 & ! weaves may be select$ s z to sugge/ ! beauties ( ! fl[]1 leaf1 or o!r object :i* =ms ! basis ( ! design4 ,! object ( ! design] ne$ n be to r5d] a direct imitation ( nature2 b !re is no reason :y a textile design] %\ld n use ! p[] at 8 disposal ( sugge/+ ! surface appe>ance1 or ! beauties1 or *>act]i/ics ( ! object :i* =ms ! subject ( ! design4 ,a portion ( a design develop$ 9 a v>iety ( weaves is giv5 at ,fig4 #chb4 ,! comb9ation ( ! solid weft mix$ fancy weaves gives a good effect4 ,9 designs ( ! m conv5tional k9d ! outl9e ( ! figure may be solid weft float1 & ! inside any o!r weave t fancy may sugge/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #chb4 ,if ! figures are =m$ f extra w>p or weft1 ! same pr9ciples ( developm5t w apply4 ,any v>iety ( light & %ade c be obta9$1 & bold effects may be produc$ by twill+1 or subdu$ effects by int]weav+ ! ?reads m closely & 9 sat9 ord]4 ,sizes ( ,patt]ns1 & ,ca/+ ,out4--,! ,jacqu>d ma*9e mo/ g5]ally us$ 9 ! cotton trade is a #djj's1 :i* weaves a design made on #djj ends or w>p ?reads 9 a 8repeat40 ,if ! h>ness is ti$ up to ! #djj neck cords1 & ! w>p drawn ?r\gh e mail 9 ! h>ness1 ! designs made = ?is loom mu/ ei!r be on #djj ends or on a numb] ( ends :i* is a measure ( #djj4 ,?us a #djj's h>ness w weave ! foll[+ sizes ( patt]ns3-- ,"o patt]n to #djj1 or #djj end patt]n ,two patt]ns to #djj1 #bjj ,f\r #djj1 #ajj ,five #djj1 #hj ,eight #djj1 #ej ,t5 #djj1 #dj & s on4 ,if x is requir$ to make a design ) ?ree patt]ns to ! f\r hundr$ ends1 ! design mu/ be made ?ree times ov]1 two patt]ns occupy+ #acc ends ea*1 & ! o!r patt]n occupy+ #acd ends to make up ! #djj ends4 ,a design six patt]ns to ! f\r hundr$ may be made by design+ f\r patt]ns on sixty-sev5 ends ea* & two patt]ns on sixty-six ends ea*1 & o!r sizes n exactly divisible into ! f\r hundr$ may be made to come 9 on ! same pr9ciple4 ,9 design+ = ,jacqu>d weav+ c>e mu/ be tak5 t ! gr\nd weave w divide exactly into ! numb] ( ends 9 ! h>ness1 o!rwise ! patt]n w be brok54 ,sometimes ! figure w all[ ( ! gr\nd be+ brok5 at "s po9t or o!r )\t ! break be+ visible4 ,su* opportunity occurs :]e ! gr\nd n>r[s d[n to a f9e po9t2 b 9 ord9>y cases1 :]e x is necess>y to make a design ) a gr\nd weave repeat+ on a numb] n a measure ( #djj1 "s ( ! mails mu/ be 8ca/-out40 ,= example1 if ! gr\nd weave is requir$ to be a #ab #ab honeycomb1 z x w n divide equally into #djj1 b w divide into #cif1 ! design may be made on ?is numb]1 & f\r mails 9 ! h>ness left empty4 ,ca/+ out is also resort$ to :5 x is requir$ to r$uce ! f95ess ( ! re$4 ,= in/ance1 if "o-eigh? ( a #djj's h>ness be ca/ out1 !re w be #ej ends less p] patt]n1 & if ! patt]n measures f\r in*es1 ! re$ w\ld be r$uc$ f a #ajj's to an #hg's4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #chc4 ,if sev]al r[s are ca/ out1 x is be/ to leave !m out 9 two places2 usually "o-half is left out 9 ! fir/ half ( ! ma*9e1 & ! rema9d] 9 ! second half4 ,9 design+ = a ma*9e :i* is 8ca/ out10 x is necess>y to "k 9 :i* "p ( ! ma*9e ! ends are ca/ out1 s t ! design may be made to tie up prop]ly1 & t prop] in/ructions may be giv5 to ! c>d-cutt]4 ,/rip$ ,designs4--,/rip$ fabrics are always l>gely made = dress goods & o!r purposes4 ,an endless v>iety ( /yles may be made by comb9+ /ripes ( any two contra/+ weaves4 ,if ! weaves are comb9$ = dobby weav+1 c>e mu/ be tak5 t too _m %afts are n requir$ = ! value ( ! effect obta9$1 b if int5d$ = ,jacqu>d weav+1 ! /ripes may be figur$ z desir$4 ,"s ( ! mo/ effective comb9$ /yles are made ( sat9 & l5o 9 v>i\s =ms & proportions4 ,if = dobby weav+1 ! designs may be spott$ to come 9 on a reasonable numb] ( %afts1 b if = ! ,jacqu>d1 ! sat9 is figur$4 ,! sat9 /ripes are usually cramm$--t is1 !re are m ends 9 ea* d5t ( ! re$ 9 ! sat9 ?an 9 ! o!r "p ( ! fabric4 ,fig4 #chc is a /ripe design1 compos$ ( alt]nate /ripes ( figur$ sat9 & 8#e & #a0 lace or mock l5o4 ,! re$+ plan = ?is fabric w be z foll[s3-- ,re$+ ,plan = ,fig4 #chc4 #dh ends sat91 #d 9 a d5t #ab d5ts #e ends #a d5t ,skip #a d5t ?ree times #ab d5ts #a end #a d5t ,skip #a d5t #e ends #a d5t #a d5t --- #be d5ts 9 patt]n4 ,?is sy/em ( re$+ ! op5 "w is ! be/ = obta9+ an op5 effect1 z po9t$ out 9 a previ\s *apt]4 ,tw5ty-five d5ts are occupi$ 9 re$+ ea* patt]n ( sev5ty-"o ends1 & assum+ ! h>ness to h "o hundr$ ?reads p] in*1 ! re$ requir$ to keep ! clo? ! same wid? 9 ! re$ z 9 ! h>ness w be-- #ga 3 #ajj #be 3 #ceb d5ts p] in*4 ,! re$ requir$ is "o ) #ceb d5ts p] in*1 or a #gj's 8,/ockport0 re$ w\ld be us$4 ,?is calculation is = a complete numb] ( patt]ns1 & does n all[ any?+ = balanc+ ! piece by hav+ a sat9 /ripe at bo? sides1 z is (t5 ! case4 ,9 figur$ /ripe designs ! g5]al effect is mu* improv$ by plac+ ! figure 9 diff]5t positions on ea* /ripe 9 ! #djj ends4 ,if !re are f\r figur$ /ripes 9 ! #djj ends1 & ! figure repeats on #ajj picks1 ! figure may be plac$ 9 f\r diff]5t positions1 mov+ tw5ty-five picks ea* "t1 9 :i* case x w\ld h to be design$ on #djj ends2 or 9 two diff]5t positions1 9 :i* case x w\ld be design$ on #bjj ends4 ,! object ( ?is di/ribution is to prev5t ! figure appe>+ 9 r[s across ! piece4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #chd4 ,figur$ ,diagonals4--,z previ\sly expla9$1 /rip$ designs are complete on ! l[e/ numb] ( picks into :i* all diff]5t weaves 9 ! design w divide )\t rema9d]4 ,9 figur$ diagonals ! design is complete on ! fir/ numb] t ! diagonal & figure or figures c\nt$ diagonally w divide into )\t rema9d]4 ,?us1 9 ,fig4 #chd ! design is complete on #dh picks1 because ! diagonal repeats on #bd picks & ! figure repeats on #af picks1 & ! ,l4,c4,m4 ( #bd & #af is #dh2 !re=e ?is is ! numb] ( picks to :i* ! design mu/ be c>ri$ be=e x is complete4 ,selection ( ,po9t ,pap]4--,po9t pap] is divid$ into small squ>es to repres5t ! ends & picks1 & if ! designs are = a #cjj's or #djj's ,jacqu>d a ?ick l9e is requir$ e eight 9 ! w>p direction to m>k (f ! numb] ( r[s ( eight ne$les 9 ! ma*9e4 ,9 #ajj's ,jacqu>ds ! ne$les are plac$ 9 #be r[s ( f\r ne$les 9 a r[2 9 #bjj's ! ne$les are 9 #be r[s ( eight ne$les1 9 #djj's !re are #ej r[s ( eight ne$les1 & 9 #fjj's !re are twelve ne$les 9 a r[4 ,! design on po9t pap] mu/ be divid$ by a ?ick l9e to m>k (f ! numb] ( ne$les 9 a r[2 9 a #djj's ma*9e ?is is always eight1 9 #fjj's ma*9es x is always twelve4 ,if ! pap] has a ?ick l9e e eight 9 ! picks z well z 9 ! w>p x is call$ 8#h #h10 & a design made on ?is pap] w be proportionately ! same if wov5 into clo? ) ! same numb] ( ends z picks p] in*4 ,if x is desir$ to make a design = a fabric ) #if ends p] in* & #fj picks p] in* = a ma*9e ) eight ne$les 9 a r[1 ! pap] requir$ to keep ! figure ( ! same proportions z x w appe> 9 ! clo? w be #h #e4 #if 3 #fj #h 3 #e ,if ! design is int5d$ = a #fjj's ma*9e1 ! pap] mu/ be #ab 7x74 ,if ! clo? is to h #if ends p] in* & #abj picks p] in* 9 a #fjj's ma*9e1 ! pap] requir$ w\ld be #ab #ae4 #if 3 #abj #ab 3 #ae ,9 select+ pap] = a figur$ cramm$ /ripe design1 a r m complicat$ calculation is necess>y4 ,x is necess>y to obta9 ! numb] ( ends p] in* 9 ! figur$ /ripe1 ?us3--,if ! sat9 is figur$ 9 a /ripe #if ends1 #d 9 a d5t1 sat9 #ej ends1 #b 9 a d5t1 pla9 wov5 9 a h>ness #ajj ends p] in*1 & ! same wid? 9 ! re$ z 9 ! h>ness1 ! ends p] in* c be obta9$ z foll[s3-- #if ends1 #d 9 a d5t #bd d5ts #ej ends1 #b 9 a d5t #be d5ts --- --- #adf ends4 #di d5ts4 ,if #di d5ts are requir$ = #adf ends1 ! numb] ( d5ts p] in* 9 ! re$ w be-- #adf 3 #ajj #di 3 #cc-hb_/adf d5ts p] in*1 or a #fg re$4 ,if ! re$ us$ is "o ) #cc d5ts p] in* & ! sat9 is f\r ends 9 a d5t1 !re w be #cc #d #acd ends p] in* 9 ! sat92 & if !re are to be #ajj picks p] in* 9 ! clo?1 ! pap] requir$ to keep ! figure proportionate w\ld be = a #djj's ma*9e1 #acd3 #ajj #h3 #f 7ne>ly74 ,!re=e ! pap] requir$ is #h #f4 ,x is n at all necess>y to use po9t pap] rul$ exactly 9 proportion to ! w>p & weft1 z ! design c easily be elongat$ or o!rwise4 ,x is only necess>y to rule ! sket* into squ>es1 repres5t+ a c]ta9 numb] ( ends & picks1 & to m>k (f ! po9t pap] accord+ly4 ,designs = ,split ,h>ness4--,9 design+ = ! split h>ness1 ,fig4 #abd1 no gr\nd dots are requir$ on ! design1 z ! %afts "u ! comb]-bo>d :i* are lift$ by ! sp>e hooks weave ! gr\nd patt]n4 ,! design is simply col\r$ 91 & ! b9d+ dots put on ! figure only4 ,9 a d\ble-scale split h>ness e hook lift$ takes up two ends1 & ?us ! b9d+s 9 ! figure w appe> 9 twos1 & w !re=e appe> r co>se4 ,9 ! gr\nd e end is wov5 sep>ately by ! %afts1 & ^! w require to be lift$ to give ! requir$ gr\nd weave4 ,all t is requir$1 !re=e1 is to put ! lift+ dots on ! po9t pap] 9 ! position requir$ to op]ate ! hooks :i* lift ! %afts4 ,except = ! limit ) reg>d to ! gr\nd weave1 designs = ! split h>ness are prep>$ 9 ! same mann] z = an ord9>y h>ness4 ,pressure ,h>ness ,designs4--,9 designs = ! pressure h>ness no b9d+ dots are requir$ on ! po9t pap] 9 ei!r ! figure or gr\nd1 z ! %afts or 8pressure healds0 9 front ( ! h>ness d all ! b9d+4 ,?is h>ness is *iefly us$ 9 f9e goods4 ,sev]al w>p ?reads are drawn ?r\gh ea* mail 9 ! h>ness1 & aft]w>ds wov5 s+ly by ! pressure healds 9 front4 ,! edges ( ! figure are /epp$ accord+ to ! numb] ( ends 9 ea* mail4 ,! /ructure ( a pressure h>ness damask fabric1 wov5 six ends 9 a mail ) eight %aft sat9 b9d+s1 is %[n at ,fig4 #che4 ,( c\rse x is n necess>y to make ! design on po9t pap] 9 ?is mann]2 all t is necess>y is to sket* ! figure & col\r x 9 :]e ! w>p sat9 is requir$4 ,all ! b9d+ is done by ! pressure healds1 z expla9$ ) ,fig4 #abe4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #che4 ,designs wov5 ) ?is h>ness h always a flat appe>ance1 b ?is is suitable = hang+s1 = :i* ! h>ness is *iefly us$4 ,a consid]able numb] ( weaves may be employ$ 9 b9d+ ! gr\nd or figure4 ,any two weaves c be us$ 9 conjunction = ! gr\nd & figure :i* d n int]f]e ) ea* o!r 9 ! work+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #chf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #chg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #chh4 ,9 addition to simple sat9 & twill weaves1 ,figs4 #chf & #chg c be us$ 9 conjunction1 ! figure be+ wov5 to ei!r patt]n4 ,fig4 #chh w %[ t ! two weaves d n int]f]e ) ea* o!r--t is1 an end is nev] requir$ to be lift$ & left d[n at ! same "t4 ,figs4 #chi & #cij c be us$ toge!r1 "o =m+ ! figure & ! o!r ! gr\nd4 ,! be/ way ( compil+ weaves to give v>iety to pressure h>ness fabrics is to put ! sat9 clots on pap] fir/1 & !n to arrange a patt]n to fit 9 ! empty squ>es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #chi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cij4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cia4 ,design+ = ,edle/on's ,h>ness4--,:5 design+ = ! pat5t h>ness1 illu/rat$ at ,fig4 #abi1 ! sket* is put on po9t pap] 9 ! ord9>y mann]1 b x mu/ be rememb]$ 9 do+ s t ! figure :5 wov5 w be on d\ble ! numb] ( ends :i* x app>5tly occupies on po9t pap]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cib4 ,if ! spot %[n at ,fig4 #cia is put on po9t pap] & wov5 9 ?is h>ness ! effect %[n at ,fig4 #cib w be obta9$ 9 ! clo?4 ,! numb] ( ends betwe5 ! spots w\ld only be n9e on pap] to give ! eighte5 9 ! clo?4 ,x 0 po9t$ out 9 expla9+ ! /ructure ( ?is h>ness t a weft figure c\ld n be put ^u a w>p gr\nd1 z x is obvi\s t n m ?an half ! w>p c be lift$ at once1 & ! figure mu/ !re=e be obta9$ by leav+ ! w>p d[n4 ,! designs are conf9$ to pla9 gr\nds1 or weft figures may be ?r[n on weft sat9 gr\nds1 & twill or cord gr\nds may ) advantage be us$4 ,! me?od ( putt+ eight-end sat9 on po9t pap] is giv5 at ,fig4 #acj4 ,! pr9ciple ( putt+ on pap] any weave possible on ?is h>ness w be und]/ood by ref]r+ to ! explanation giv5 ) ! illu/ration ( ! h>ness4 ,figur$ ,l5os4--,"s ( ! mo/ beautiful ( all fabrics are made ) ! l5o h>ness1 ! comb9ation ( pla9 or float$ figures ) ! op5 & firm l5o gr\nd giv+ a fabric :i* is bo? s]viceable & effective4 ,! /ructure ( ! h>ness has already be5 expla9$ ) ,fig4 #ade1 & x has be5 %[n h[ 8f\r & f\r0 l5o & a pla9 or float$ weave c be comb9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cic4 ,! me?od ( putt+ ! design on po9t pap] = a figur$ l5o h>ness ) #ejj ne$les & #fjj hooks 7see ,fig4 #ade7 w be und]/ood f ,fig4 #cic4 ,?is is a small portion ( a design :i* includes 8f\r & f\r0 l5o1 pla91 & float$ weft or w>p4 ,! solid squ>es %[ ! cross+ ?reads lift$ by ! gr\nd h>ness1 & ! circles %[ ! same ends lift$ by ! d\p4 ,!re w ?us be f\r ends 9 a d5t & f\r picks 9 a %$ 9 ! l5o1 & :5 ^! are wov5 pla9 ! contra/ is v effective4 ,two col\rs are necess>y = putt+ ! design on pap]1 & 9 cutt+ ! c>ds f ! design ! solid squ>es 9 ! l5o portion w be cut opposite ! ?ird & f\r? or sev5? & eigh? ne$les 9 ! gr\nd set1 :il/ ! circles 9 ! design :i* %[ :]e ! d\ps are to be lift$ w be cut opposite ei!r ! fir/ or t5? r[ ( ne$les4 ,9 a gr\nd weave ( ?is k9d bo? d\ps are nev] lift$ toge!r1 z ! weave is easi] :5 !y are lift$ sep>ately4 ,"s beautiful /rip$ designs are made by us+ ?ick :ip ?reads to give a lace effect1 & v>i\s fancy l5o weaves c be made & employ$ = giv+ v>iety to ! effect4 ,if !re are m ?an f\r picks 9 a %$ on ! l5o x is (t5 necess>y to lift "o ( ! cross+ ends :5 ! /&>d ends are lift+ 9 ord] to prev5t ! ?reads f 8slipp+0 or 8fray+40 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cid4 ,fig4 #cid w give a well-kn[n two-d\p effect1 & o!r patt]ns may be devis$ q easily1 ! p[] ( ! h>ness be+ practically unlimit$4 ,sometimes l5o figures are wov5 on pla9 gr\nds1 b ! opposite is ! g5]al rule4 ,float$ figures are n mu* us$1 z ! contra/ ( ! pla9 & l5o is v effective1 & is m s]viceable ?an a loose figure4 ,a v fair imitation ( a f\r 9 a d5t figur$ l5o c be made by us+ "o d\p /ave 9 front ( an ord9>y ,jacqu>d h>ness1 & cross+ "o end "u ?ree4 ,by lift+ ! d\p e o!r pick a pla9 figure c be wov5 on ! l5o gr\nd1 "o cross+ ?ree1 on ! pr9ciple expla9$ ) ,fig4 #add4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cie4 ,toilet+s4--,9 toilet quilts a rais$ pla9 figure is =m$ by an extra w>p f a sep>ate beam int]weav+ ) ! pla9 clo? :]e ! gr\nd ( ! design is requir$4 ,fig4 #cie is a portion ( a design = a clo? ( ?is k9d4 ,e ?ird end is an 8extra0 end1 & :]e ! rais$ figure is requir$ ^! ends are left d[n1 b :]e ! gr\nd ( ! design is requir$ ! extra ends int]weave ) ! pla9 clo? & b9d x d[n4 ,! t5sion ( ! extra w>p causes ! figure to /ick up m ?an w\ld o!rwise be ! case4 ,! pr9ciple c be made to give innum]able effects by diff]5t me?ods ( introduc+ ! extra w>p1 b ! ends mu/ n be left out ( ! clo? = too long toge!r1 or !y w\ld be too loose at ! back & w\ld be likely to cat*4 ,fig4 #cif is a section %[+ ! b9d+ ( ! extra w>p into ! pla9 figur+ clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cif4 ,! pr9ciple is well adapt$ = ! production ( l>ge figures su* z are requir$ on quilts & simil> fabrics1 ow+ to ! fact t only "o-?ird ( ! w>p ?reads are requir$ to pass ?r\gh ! ,jacqu>d h>ness2 ! pla9 ends c be lift$ by %afts4 ,9 ! bett] classes ( toilet+s two %uttles are us$1 & ! extra ends are wov5 pla9 at ! back in/ead ( hang+ loose4 ,! pr9ciple is o!rwise ! same z 9 a "o-%uttle toilet+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cig4 ,9 "s quilts a padd+ weft is ins]t$ betwe5 ! face & back clo? on ! pr9ciple expla9$ 9 ,figs4 #cbf-cbh4 8,m>seilles0 quilts are made 9 ?is mann]4 ,fig4 #cig w %[ h[ a padd$ figure is =m$1 ! dots repres5t ! weft1 & ! pr9ciple ( =m+ ! figure is ! same z 9 ,figs4 #cbf & #cbh4 ,:5 ! padd+ picks are be+ put 91 ! face clo? is all lift$1 & ! back clo? left d[n4 ,!re are v>i\s o!r makes ( quilts1 ( :i* ! 8,mit*el9e0 type is ext5sively manufactur$4 ,^! fabrics are *>act]iz$ by a rais$ figure ( co>se texture ^u a gr\nd ( comp>atively f9e texture4 ,fig4 #cih %[s h[ ?is is effect$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cih4 ,two sy/ems ea* ( w>p & weft are us$1 ! w>p be+ drawn 9 ! h>ness & re$ z foll[s3-- "o face end f9e c\nts3 7say :ite7 two figur+ ends m$ium c\nts3 7say br[n74 ,! ord] ( pick+ is-- two co>se figur+ picks 7:ite7 two f9e gr\nd picks 7br[n74 ,two pla9 clo?s are wov51 "o be+ :ite & ! o!r br[n1 & ^! are made to *ange places s z to =m ! desir$ figure 9 ! mann] %[n 9 ,fig4 #cih4 ,! two clo?s are b\nd toge!r 9 bo? ! figure & ! gr\nd4 ,:5 ! :ite clo? is at ! top1 z 9 ! fir/ "p ( ,fig4 #cih1 a gr\nd pick is pass$ ov] a :ite face end "u ! float :i* foll[s1 & ! b9d+ is p]fectly hidd54 ,:5 ! br[n clo? is at ! top a :ite end is lift$1 & z ?is is ( a f9e c\nt & ! br[n w>p ?reads are r closely set to ! re$1 ! b9d+ is obscur$4 ,a portion ( a design ( ?is weave is giv5 at ,fig4 #cii1 ! /ructure ( :i* w repay c>eful /udy along ) ! section at ,fig4 #cih4 ,twill$ clo?s are sometimes us$ = figur+ on ?is d\ble clo? pr9ciple1 & ! b9d+ c be mu* m easily effect$1 al?\gh ! weave is m exp5sive ?an d\ble pla91 if ! same firmness is desir$4 ,fig4 #djj is a section %[+ h[ ! figure c be =m$ f two twill clo?s1 & h[ ! b9d+ c be be/ effect$4 ,! clo?s 9 ?is example are ( equal f95ess4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ref]5ce4 symbol ,:ite face w>p-ends rais$ above co>se :ite figur+ picks4 symbol ,br[n figur+ w>p-ends rais$ above f9e br[n gr\nd picks4 symbol ,:ite face w>p-ends rais$ above f9e br[n gr\nd picks1 9 ! figure4 symbol ,br[n figur+ w>p-ends rais$ above co>se :ite figur+ picks4 symbol ,:ite face w>p-ends rais$ above f9e br[n gr\nd picks1 9 ! gr\nd4 ,,fig4 #cii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #djj4 ,fig4 #dja is a design = ?is fabric1 %[+ a small portion ( bo? gr\nd & figure4 ,! clo?s are b\nd toge!r once 9 e eight ?reads4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dja4 ,figur$ ,weft ,pile ,velvets4--,:5 figur+ ) weft & pile1 ! *ief difficulty is ! cutt+ ( ! fabric aft] weav+1 ow+ to ! difficulty ( keep+ ! knife-guide 9 ! race :5 pass+ f "o portion ( ! figure to ano!r across ! gr\nd4 ,a consid]able quantity ( fabrics _h be5 made ) velvet cord figures--:i* are easy en\gh to cut--be=e x 0 f\nd possible to cut ! real velvet figure4 ,?is 0 r5d]$ possible by ?r[+ ! %ort floats ( pile weft to ! back ( ! clo? at ! edges ( ! figure1 & always mov+ 9 /eps or races at ! edges ( ! figure1 & 9 addition to ?is always keep+ ! end ^u :i* ! knife runs1 to ! inside ( ea* /ep4 ,by ?r[+ out ! %ort floats ! *ief difficulty 0 ov]come1 z ! ob/ruction caus$ by ^! 0 ! *ief cause ( ! knife & guide be+ ?r[n out :5 cutt+4 ,^! improvem5ts 7 simultane\sly devis$ by ! writ] & ,mr4 ,t4 ,&]son1 ( ,wyke1 & a l>ge quantity ( clo? 0 turn$ out a few ye>s ago1 b ow+ to ! cottony appe>ance ( ! gr\nd ! dem& quickly fell away4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #djb4 ,two l>ge manufactur]s took out a pat5t to include all figur$ weft pile fabrics1 b a ?or\gh se>* c\ld n h be5 made1 z ! writ] rec5tly came across a heap ( patt]ns wov5 on ! same pr9ciple1 includ+ ! /epp+ 9 races1 & also ) a col\r$ extra w>p gr\nd1 :i* _h be5 made at lea/ be=e ! ye> #ahgj4 ,! me?od ( putt+ ! designs on po9t pap] is %[n at ,fig4 #djb4 ,! weave g5]ally us$ is an ord9>y ,e#a velvet ) ab\t #djj picks p] in*1 wov5 9 an #hj re$ #b-fj's twi/1 #gj's weft4 ,x w be se5 t ! figure /eps 9 twos at ! edges1 & t all floats less ?an five are ?r[n to ! back ( ! clo? by ! small dots 9 ! design4 ,! blanks repres5t ! weft on ! face1 & ! inside ( ! /ep or race is arrang$ to come on ! ?ird1 fif?1 sev5? ends1 & s on1 ^! be+ ! ends along :i* ! knife runs4 ,:]e a turn is made 9 ! figure x mu/ be on an odd numb] ( ends 9 ord] to keep ! race 9 ?is position4 ,o!r sy/ems ( mak+ figur$ weft pile fabrics h be5 tri$4 ,"o ( ^! 0 to use an extra w>p at ! back = b9d+ ! pile picks :]e ! gr\nd is requir$1 & b9d+ ! picks :]e ! figure is requir$1 to ! ord9>y w>p4 ,:5 ! pile is cut ! extra w>p is torn away1 pull+ ! pile ) x :]e ! gr\nd ( ! patt]n occurs4 ,ano!r me?od is to weave ! figure fa/ pile1 & ! gr\nd loose pile1 & to bru% ! loose pile away at ! back4 ,velvet & l5o /ripes h be5 wov54 ,z velvet requires a l>ge numb] ( picks & l5o a small numb]1 !re is a difficulty 9 cutt+ ! picks at ! back ( ! l5o /ripe away4 ,?is c be ov]come by int]weav+ ! picks to be tak5 away at ! back ( ! l5o ) "s extra ends1 & :5 ! velvet /ripe is cut1 ! back clo? c be torn away q easily4 ,solid ,col\r$ ,bord]s4--,9 "s fabrics1 su* z dhooties1 ! bord]s are sometimes made ) col\r$ w>p & weft1 & ! middle ( ! piece ) :ite or grey y>ns4 ,! me?od ( obta9+ ! solid bord] is r +5i\s1 & is z foll[s4 ,a col\r$ end is plac$ at ea* side ( ! w>p1 & ?is ?read hangs loose f ! bobb91 s t n mu* =ce is requir$ to pull ! ?read into ! bord]4 ,! w>p ends =m+ ! bord] are on sep>ate /aves f ! gr\nd ends1 & lift s z to all[ two picks to g ?r\gh ea* %$ :ile ! middle weaves ord9>y pla9 clo?4 ,! col\r$ end ,a 7,fig4 #djc7 is lift$ e o!r pick1 & ! %uttle conta9+ ! :ite weft w pass r\nd x1 & z ! %$ is n *ang$ 9 ! bord] ends1 ! col\r$ ?read is tak5 into ! bord]1 ?us =m+ a solid col\r$ bord] on an ord9>y grey or :ite clo?4 ,9 ! bord]1 !re w be two picks 9 a %$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #djc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #djd4 ,! po9t pap] plan %[+ ! diff]5ce 9 ! %$d+ betwe5 ! bord] & ! middle is giv5 at ,fig4 #djd4 ,! col\r$ ?read f ! bottom may be lift$ by ! pla9 /aves4 ,direction ( ! ,twi/ 9 ,y>ns4--,w>p y>ns are usually twi/$ s z to %[ ! l9es ( ! twi/ f "r to left1 & weft y>ns are twi/$ 9 ! opposite direction4 ,! reason = ?is is t :5 ! y>ns are wov5 into clo? ! l9es ( bo? w>p & weft run 9 ! same direction1 & ! ?reads become emb$d$ toge!r z closely z possible ?r\gh ! /r&s fall+ into ea* o!r4 ,?is is %[n at ,fig4 #dje1 :]e at ,a & ,b ! w>p & weft y>ns are %[n laid side by side4 ,at ,c ! same y>ns are %[n z laid 9 ! clo?1 :5 x w be se5 t ! l9es ( twi/ appe> 9 ! same direction1 & ! ?reads h ?us a *ance ( gett+ toge!r z closely z possible4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dje4 ,if ! weft is spun 9 ! same direction z ! w>p1 or 8twi/ way10 z x is t]m$1 :5 wov5 ! l9es or /r&s appe> 9 opposite directions1 & ea* ?read has a t5d5cy to be kept ap>t f ! o!rs1 & appe>s sep>ately4 ,?is1 if any?+1 makes ! clo? feel slightly ?ick]1 & is pref]r$ by _m = c]ta9 purposes1 includ+ "s classes ( pr9t+ clo?s4 ,! f9] appe>ance is obta9$ by ! y>ns spun 9 opposite directions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #djf4 ,9 twill & sat9 clo?s1 & simil> fabrics1 ! direction ( ! twi/ has a v important be>+ ^u ! appe>ance ( ! fabric4 ,! f9e/ & close/ effect is obta9$ by us+ w>p & weft y>ns spun 9 opposite directions1 s t :5 wov5 ! l9es appe> 9 ! same direction1 & ! direction ( ! twill %\ld be opposite to bo?4 ,?is is :y "o side ( a twill clo? has a f9] appe>ance ?an ! o!r1 z ! twill runs aga9/ ! l9es on "o side1 & ) ! l9es on ! o!r side ( ! clo?1 ! =m] hav+ ! f9] appe>ance4 ,fig4 #djf %[s ! y>ns spun oppositely1 & ! twill runn+ 9 a direction opposite to ! l9es4 ,9 sate5 clo?s !re is a k9d ( twill 9 "o direction1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #djg1 & ! above pr9ciple applies to ?is z well z regul> twills4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #djg4 ,x (t5 occurs t = pr9t+ & dye+ purposes ! weft is pref]r$ spun 8twi/ way10 & z ! weft greatly pr$om9ates ov] ! w>p1 ! direction ( ! twill %\ld be contr>y to ! l9es ( ! weft4 ,n mu* diff]5ce is noticeable 9 ! bett] makes ( clo?1 b :5 !re are few picks1 a fray$ appe>ance is (t5 produc$ if ! direction ( ! twill is n rev]s$4 ,to keep ! twill 9 a giv5 direction1 ! twi/ may be spun 8weft way0 to give ! desir$ effect4 ,9 v small twills1 su* z ,jeannettes1 a m decid$ twill is obta9$ by us+ weft spun 9 ! same way z ! twi/ or w>p y>ns1 b 9 l>g] twills ! be/ effect is obta9$ 9 ! opposite mann]4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,textile ,,calculations ,! numb]s ( cotton y>ns are bas$ ^u ! hank ( #hdj y>ds1 ! numb] ( hanks 9 #a lb4 be+ ! 8c\nts40 ,x foll[s t if #hdj--! y>ds 9 "o hank--be multipli$ by ! c\nts1 ! result w be ! y>ds 9 #a lb4 ( t c\nt4 ,?us 9 #a lb4 ( #cj's y>n !re w be #hdj #cj #be1bjj y>ds1 & ! y>ds 9 a p\nd ( any c\nt may be f\nd 9 ! same mann]4 ,! c\nts ( wor/$ y>ns are bas$ ^u a hank ( #efj y>ds1 & ! numb] ( hanks 9 #a lb4 ,avoirdupois is ! c\nt ( ! y>n4 ,l95 y>ns are bas$ on a hank or lea ( #cjj y>ds1 & ! numb] ( ^! 9 #a lb4 is ! c\nt ( ! y>n4 ,spun silk1 :i* is ! silk *iefly us$ 9 cotton fabrics = /ripes & head+s1 is numb]$ on ! same sy/em z cotton y>ns4 ,! numb] ( hanks ( #hdj y>ds 9 #a lb4 is ! c\nt ( ! y>n4 ,net silks or ?r[n silks are numb]$ on an altoge!r diff]5t sy/em4 ,! 8ske90 or hank is #ebj y>ds1 & ! numb] ( d5i]s--#ecc d5i]s #a oz4--:i* a ske9 weighs indicates ! numb] ( ! y>n4 ,9 silk manufacture ! numb] ( ! y>n is call$ ! 8size10 ! ^w 8c\nt0 be+ us$ to d5ote ! clos5ess ( ! re$4 ,ano!r sy/em is us$ = silk y>ns call$ ! ,man*e/] scale4 ,?is is bas$ ^u ! hank ( #a1jjj y>ds4 ,! numb] ( drams :i* "o su* hank weighs is ! 8size0 or numb] ( ! y>n or ?read4 ,9 ! =m] scale ! y>ds p] ounce may be f\nd by multiply+ ! y>ds 9 a hank by ! d5i]s 9 "o ounce1 & divid+ by ! numb] ( d5i]s :i* a hank weighs4 ,! y>ds 9 an ounce ( #dj d5i] silk w be-- d5i]s p] oz4 y>ds 9 ske9 7#ecc #ebj7 --------------------- #ficc y>ds p] oz4 #dj d5i]s ,9 ! ,man*e/] silk scale ! y>ds p] ounce ( a #d dram silk may be f\nd by multiply+ #a1jjj1 ! y>ds 9 a hank1 by #af1 ! drams 9 an ounce1 & divid+ by ! numb] ( drams :i* ! hank weighs1 viz4 #d2 ?us-- 7#ajjj #af7 ----------- #djjj y>ds p] oz4 #d ,tw(old ,y>ns 9 cotton1 wor/$1 & l95 are numb]$ accord+ to ! c\nt ( ! s+le y>n1 ) ! numb] ( folds put be=e x4 ,?us a #b-dj's y>n means t ! y>n is compos$ ( two ?reads ( #dj's s+le1 mak+ a tw(old y>n ( #bj hanks to ! p\nd4 ,9 spun silk ! y>ns are ne>ly always two or m fold1 & ! numb] ( ! y>n always indicates ! numb] ( hanks 9 #a lb4 ,! numb] ( folds is usually writt5 aft] ! hanks p] p\nd4 ,?us1 #dj's-#b spun silk indicates t ! y>n is #dj hanks to ! p\nd1 made up ( two ?reads ( #hj's s+le4 ,x sometimes occurs 9 fancy y>ns t ?reads ( unequal ?ickness are twi/$ toge!r4 ,if a #fj's ?read & a #dj's ?read are twi/$ toge!r1 ! c\nt ( ! d\bl$ ?read w n be ! same z if two ?reads ( #ej hanks to ! p\nd1 b w be some?+ less ?an ?is4 ,x is obvi\s t :5 ! two ?reads are twi/$ toge!r ! weight ( a hank ( ! d\bl$ ?read w be #a_/fj #a_/dj ( a p\nd1 & by add+ ^! fractions toge!r ! c\nts ( ! tw(old y>n may be obta9$4 ,?us-- #a #a 7#c #b7 #e -- -- ------- --- #bd's c\nts4 #dj #fj #abj #abj ,ano!r me?od ( obta9+ ! same result is to multiply ! two numb]s toge!r1 & add !m toge!r1 & divide "o result by ! o!r4 ,?us-- #fj #fj #dj #dj --- ---- #ajj7 #bdjj 7#bd's c\nts4 #bdjj ---- ,if ?ree or m unequal ?reads are twi/$ toge!r ! c\nts ( ! result+ ?read may be f\nd by add+ ! fractions ( a p\nd :i* a hank ( ea* c\nt repres5ts4 ,example4--,f9d ! c\nts ( a ?reefold ?read compos$ ( "o ?read ea* ( #aj's1 #bj's & #fj's cotton4 #a #a #a 7#f #c #a7 #aj #a -- -- -- ---------- -- -- or #f's c\nts4 #aj #bj #fj #fj #fj #f ,"s all[ance mu/ be made = ! twi/+ ( ! ?reads1 b ?is w v>y ) ! numb] ( turns p] in* 9 ! y>n1 & s is n tak5 into acc\nt 9 ! example4 ,if x is requir$ to obta9 ! weight ( ea* c\nt 9 #ajj lbs4 ( ! ?reefold y>n1 ! foll[+ is ! me?od4 ,z "o c\nt is to ! result+ c\nt1 s is ! total weight to ! weight requir$ ( t y>n-- #aj 3 #f #ajj 3 #fj lbs4 ( #aj's #bj 3 #f #ajj 3 #cj lbs4 ( #bj's #fj 3 #f #ajj 3 #aj lbs4 ( #fj's ---- #ajj lbs4 ,total4 ,re$s & ,setts4--,! sy/em ( numb]+ re$s1 n[ almo/ univ]sal 9 ! cotton trade1 is kn[n z ! ,/ockport or ,man*e/] c\nt4 ,! numb] ( d5ts or splits p] in* 9 ! re$ ) two ends 9 ea* d5t is ! basis ( ! sy/em4 ,if ! re$ has #cj d5ts p] in*1 x is call$ a #fj re$1 because if !re are two ends 9 a d5t 9 ! #cj d5ts !re w be #fj ends p] in*4 ,! numb] ( ! re$ is always ! same z ! ends p] in* 9 ! re$1 if ! ends are all two 9 a d5t4 ,a #fj re$ ,/ockport c\nts1 if re$$ ?ree ends 9 a d5t1 w h #ij ends p] in*1 because a #fj re$ has #cj d5ts p] in*1 & if !re are ?ree 9 a d5t1 !re w be #cj #c #ij ends p] in*4 ,v>i\s o!r sy/ems h be5 us$1 b are gradually giv+ way to ! simpl] ,/ockport or ,man*e/] sy/em4 ,"s ( ^! are-- ,! ,bolton c\nt1 9 :i* ! numb] ( 8be]s0 ( #dj ends1 or #bj d5ts1 9 #bd in*es is ! basis ( ! sy/em4 ,! ,blackburn c\nt1 9 :i* ! numb] ( be]s 9 #de in*es 0 ! basis4 ,! be]1 z above1 be+ #bj d5ts1 repres5t+ #dj ends 9 a be]4 ,! ,pre/on c\nt 0 bas$ on ! numb] ( be]s 9 diff]5t wid?s4 ,! #f-d c\nt 0 bas$ on ! numb] ( be]s ( #bj d5ts--repres5t+ #dj ends--9 #eh in*es4 ,! #i-h's c\nt 0 bas$ on ! numb] ( be]s 9 #dd in*es4 ,! #d-d's c\nt 0 bas$ on ! be]s 9 #ci in*es4 ,! #g-h's c\nt 0 bas$ on ! be]s 9 #cd in*es4 ,! ,scot* sy/em is bas$ on ! numb] ( d5ts 9 #cg in*es4 ,?us 9 a #bjjj re$ !re w be #bjjj d5ts 9 #cg in*es1 repres5t+ #djjj ends 9 t space4 ,! ,brad=d sy/em is bas$ on ! numb] ( be]s ( #dj ends 9 #cf in*es4 ,if !re are #ej times #dj ends 9 #cf in*es1 x is a 8#ej sett40 ,to f9d ! numb] ( ends p] in* 9 a giv5 sett1 x is necess>y to multiply ! sett by #dj & divide by #cf1 ?us-- 7#ej sett #dj7 -------------- #ee-bj_/cf ends p] in*4 #cf ,quantity ( ,mat]ial 9 a ,piece4--,to f9d ! weight ( w>p & weft ( giv5 c\nts 9 a piece1 ! total l5g? ( y>n 9 ! piece may be f\nd1 & divid$ by ! y>ds 9 #a lb4 ( ! c\nts ( y>n us$4 ,?is w give ! weight 9 p\nds4 ,! foll[+ example w make ! pr9ciple q cle>3-- ,example4--,f9d ! weight ( w>p & weft 9 a piece wov5 #cj in*es wide 9 a #gj re$ 7,/ockport7 clo? #ij y>ds long1 f #ie y>ds ( w>p1 #hj picks p] in*1 ! c\nts ( twi/ or w>p be+ #cj's1 & c\nts ( weft #dj's4 ,if ! piece is #ij y>ds long1 ! l5g? ( w>p us$ w be some:at 9 excess ( ?is1 z ! w>p 9 int]lac+ ) ! weft is b5t out ( a /raight l9e4 ,! am\nt ( 8mill+ up10 z x is call$1 v>ies accord+ to ! numb] ( int]sections 9 ! patt]n or weave ( ! clo?1 & ) ! c\nts ( y>n us$4 ,x w also v>y consid]ably accord+ to ! ela/icity ( ! y>n4 ,tw(old y>ns are m ela/ic ?an s+le1 & !re=e w require a %ort] l5g? ( y>n = a giv5 l5g? ( clo?4 ,9 ?is example #ie y>ds ( w>p are us$ to weave a #ij-y>ds piece1 an all[ance ( a little ov] #e p] c5t4 ,9 mak+ ! calculation = ! weft x is necess>y to take ! wid? 9 ! re$1 z ?is l5g? ( weft is us$ e pick4 ,! clo? w contract a little ow+ to ! pull ( ! ?reads :5 wov51 & :5 calculat+ = a giv5 wid? ( clo? c>e mu/ be tak5 to calculate = ! re$ wid? & n ! clo? wid? only4 ,9 ! pres5t example ! wid? 9 ! re$ is giv51 & s ! clo? w be some:at n>r[] ?an ?is :5 wov54 ,,to ,,f9d ,,weight ,,( ,,w>p4 #hdj y>ds 9 #a hank #gj ends p] in* #cj c\nts #cj in*es 9 re$ ----- ---- #bebjj y>ds 9 #a lb4 #bajj ends 9 w>p #ie y>ds long ----- #ajejj #ahijj ------ #aiiejj y>ds ( twi/ 9 piece4 y>ds #aiiejj ,!re=e1 weight ( w>p ----- #g lbs4 #ad oz4 #bebjj yds4 9 #a lb4 ,,to ,,f9d ,,weight ,,( ,,weft4 #hdj y>ds 9 #a hank #hj picks p] in* #dj #cj in*es 9 re$ ----- ---- #ccfjj y>ds 9 #a lb4 #bdjj in*es ( weft 9 #a in* ( clo? #cf in*es 9 #a y>d ----- #addjj #gbjj ----- #cf7hfdjj in*es ( weft 9 #a y>d ( clo? ----- #bdjj y>ds ( weft 9 #a y>d ( clo? #ij y>ds l5g? ( piece ---- #bafjjj y>ds ( weft 9 piece4 #bafjjj ,!re=e1 weight ( weft ------ #f lbs4 #f-f_/g oz4 #ccfjj ,weight ( weft #f lbs4 #f-f_/g oz4 ,weight ( w>p #g lbs4 #ad oz4 ,9 ! weft calculation1 ! picks p] in* multipli$ by ! wid? 9 ! re$ 9 in*es gives ! in*es ( weft 9 "o in* ( clo?4 ,?is multipli$ by #cf w give ! in*es ( weft 9 "o y>d ( clo?1 & divid$ by #cf1 ?is gives ! y>ds ( weft 9 "o y>d ( clo?4 ,! two #cf's may be left out1 z x is obvi\s t ! y>ds ( weft 9 a y>d ( clo? are ! same z ! in*es ( weft 9 an in* ( clo?4 ,! =mula to calculate ! weight ( w>p 9 a piece is z foll[s3-- ,in*es 9 re$ l5g? ( w>p 9 y>ds ends p] in* 9 re$ ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ #hdj c\nts weight ( w>p4 ,! =mula = ! weft is-- ,in*es 9 re$ l5g? ( piece 9 y>ds picks p] in* ---------------------------------------- ------------------ #hdj c\nts weight ( weft4 ,work+ out ! previ\s calculation 9 ?is mann]1 we get-- #cj #ie #gj ------------ #g lbs4 #ad oz4 ( w>p4 #hdj #cj #cj #ij #hj ------------ #f lbs4 #f-f_/g oz4 ( weft4 #hdj #dj ,if x is requir$ to f9d ! numb] ( hanks1 x is only necess>y to leave out ! c\nts 9 ! above =mul4 ,?us we get-- ,in*es wide l5g? ends p] in* ------------------------------------ hanks1 #hdj & us+ ! figures 9 ! previ\s example-- #cj #ie #gj ------------ #bcg hanks ( w>p4 #hdj ,be=e ! actual co/ ( a piece ( clo? c be calculat$1 x is necess>y to "k ! price to be paid ! weav]4 ,9 ,lanca%ire ! paym5t is made accord+ to ! li/ agre$ ^u by bo? employ]s & employ$4 ,= pla9 clo?s & twills a new uni=m li/ has be5 agre$ ^u1 & ?is is n[ g5]ally accept$4 ,! foll[+ is ! new li/3-- ,,uni=m ,,li/ ,,( ,,prices ,,= ,,weav+4 #a4 ,! ,/&>d4--,! /&>d ^u :i* ?is li/ is bas$ is an ord9>y loom1 #de in*es re$ space1 measur$ f ! =k grate on "o side to ! back bo>d on ! o!r1 weav+ clo? z foll[s3-- ,wid?3 #ci1 #dj1 #da in*es4 ,re$3 #fj re$1 #b ends 9 a d5t1 or #fj ends p] in*4 ,picks3 #ae picks p] qu>t]-in*1 asc]ta9$ by ari?metical calculation1 ) #a p] c5t4 add$ = contraction4 ,l5g?3 #ajj y>ds1 #cf in*es to ! y>d1 measur$ on ! c\nt]4 ,any l5g? ( lap o!r ?an #cf in*es to be paid 9 proportion4 ,twi/3 #bh's1 or any f9] numb]s4 ,weft3 #ca's to #ajj's inclusive4 ,price #bs4 #f;d41 or #b;d4 p] pick1 p] qu>t]-in*4 #b4 ,wid? ( ,looms4--,a #de-;in* re$ space loom be+ tak5 z ! /&>d1 #a p] c5t4 %all be add$ = ea* in* up to & includ+ #ea in*es2 #b p] c5t4 f #ea to #ef in*es2 #b p] c5t4 f #ef to #fd in*es2 & #c p] c5t4 f #fd to #gb in*es4 #a p] c5t4 %all be d$uct$ = ea* in* f #de to #cg in*es inclusive1 & #a p] c5t4 f #cg to #bd in*es1 bel[ :i* no fur!r d$uction %all be made4 ,= any fraction ( an in* up to ! half no addition or d$uction %all be made2 b if ov] ! half1 ! same %all be paid z if x 7 a full in*4 ,all additions or d$uctions "u ?is clause to be add$ to1 or tak5 f1 ! price ( ! /&>d loom #de in*es4 ,,d$uct$ ,,f ,,/&>d4 -------------------- ,loom4 ,p]c5tage4 -------------------- ,in*es4 #bd #bc #be #bb #bf #ba #bg #bj #bh #ai #bi #ah #cj #ag #ca #af #cb #ae #cc #ad #cd #ac #ce #ab #cf #aa #cg #aj #ch #h #ci #g #dj #f #da #e #db #c #dc #b #dd #a #de /&>d -------------------- ,,add$ ,,to ,,/&>d4 -------------------- ,loom4 ,p]c5tage4 -------------------- ,in*es4 #df #a #dg #c #dh #d #di #f #ej #g #ea #i #eb #aa #ec #ac #ed #ae #ee #ag #ef #ai #eg #ba #eh #bd #ei #bf #fj #bi #fa #ca #fb #cd #fc #cf #fd #ci #fe #db #ff #de #fg #dh #fh #ea #fi #ed #gj #eg #ga #fj #gb #fc -------------------- #c4 ,broad] ,clo? ?an admitt$ by ,rule4--,all looms %all be all[$ to weave to )9 #d in*es ( ! re$ space2 b :5ev] ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! wid? ( clo? & ! re$ space is less ?an #d in*es1 x %all be paid z if ! loom 7 #a in* broad]3 & if less ?an #c in*es1 z if x 7 #b in*es broad]4 #d4 ,all[ance = ,clo? #g to #ae in*es n>r[] ?an ! ,re$ ,space4--,:5 ! clo? is f #g to #ae in*es n>r[] ?an ! re$ space ( ! loom 9 :i* x is wov51 a d$uction 9 accordance ) ! foll[+ table %all be made3-- ,,d$uctions ,,= ,,n>r[ ,,clo?4 ------------------- ,re$ ,clo?4 ,p] space4 c5t4 ------------------- #gb #fe #ach #gb #fd #bgf #gb #fc #dad #gb #fb #eeb #gb #fa #fi #gb #fj #hbh #gb #ei #iff #gb #eh #aajd #gb #eg #abai #ga #fd #ada #ga #fc #bha #ga #fb #dbb #ga #fa #efb #ga #fj #gjc #ga #ei #hdd #ga #eh #ihd #ga #eg #aajb #ga #ef #abai #gj #fc #adc #gj #fb #bhg #gj #fa #dc #gj #fj #egc #gj #ei #gag #gj #eh #hf #gj #eg #igi #gj #ef #ajii #gj #ee #abah #fi #fb #adf #fi #fa #bib #fi #fj #dch #fi #ei #ehd #fi #eh #gca #fi #eg #heb #fi #ef #igd #fi #ee #ajif #fi #ed #abah #fh #fa #adi #fh #fj #bih #fh #ei #ddg #fh #eh #eif #fh #eg #gb #fh #ef #hdd #fh #ee #ifi #fh #ed #ajic #fh #ec #abag #fg #fj #aeb #fg #ei #cjd #fg #eh #def #fg #eg #ehc #fg #ef #gji #fg #ee #hcf #fg #ed #ifc #fg #ec #aji #fg #eb #abaf #ff #ei #aee #ff #eh #ca #ff #ef #efi #ff #ee #fih #ff #ed #hbh #ff #ec #ieg #ff #eb #ajhf #ff #ea #abaf #fe #eh #aeh #fe #eg #bia #fe #ef #dbc #fe #ee #eee #fe #ed #fhg #fe #ec #hai #fe #eb #iea #fe #ea #ajhc #fe #ej #abae #fd #eg #ace #fd #ef #bg #fd #ee #dje #fd #ed #ed #fd #ec #fgd #fd #eb #hji #fd #ea #idd #fd #ej #ajgi #fd #di #aahg #fc #ef #acg #fc #ee #bge #fc #ed #dab #fc #ec #edi #fc #eb #fhg #fc #ea #hbd #fc #ej #ifb #fc #di #ajga #fc #dh #aaha #fb #ee #ad #fb #ed #bh #fb #ec #db #fb #eb #ef #fb #ea #gj #fb #ej #hd #fb #di #iea #fb #dg #aage #fa #ed #adc #fa #ec #bhe #fa #eb #dbh #fa #ea #eg #fa #ej #gac #fa #di #hbg #fa #dh #ida #fa #dg #ajee #fa #df #aafi #fj #ec #ade #fj #eb #bia #fj #ea #dcf #fj #ej #eha #fj #di #fih #fj #dh #had #fj #dg #ic #fj #df #ajdg #fj #de #aafc #ei #eb #adh #ei #ea #bif #ei #ej #dde #ei #di #efc #ei #dh #fhb #ei #dg #hj #ei #df #iai #ei #de #ajch #ei #dd #aabf #eh #ea #aea #eh #ej #cjb #eh #di #dbc #eh #dh #edd #eh #dg #ffe #eh #df #ghf #eh #de #ijg #eh #dd #iih #eh #dc #ajhi #eg #ej #aed #eg #di #bgh #eg #dh #dja #eg #dg #ebe #eg #df #fdh #eg #de #ggb #eg #dd #hfd #eg #dc #ieg #eg #db #ajdi #ef #di #abf #ef #dh #beb #ef #dg #cgh #ef #df #ejd #ef #de #fc #ef #dd #gbe #ef #dc #hai #ef #db #iad #ef #da #ajjh #ee #dh #abh #ee #dg #bef #ee #df #che #ee #de #eac #ee #dd #fji #ee #dc #gje #ee #db #hja #ee #da #hig #ee #dj #iid #ed #dg #ac #ed #df #bfa #ed #de #cia #ed #dd #dhi #ed #dc #ehg #ed #db #fhe #ed #da #ghc #ed #dj #hh #ed #ci #igh #ec #df #acc #ec #de #bfe #ec #dd #cfe #ec #dc #dfe #ec #db #efd #ec #da #ffd #ec #dj #gfc #ec #ci #hfc #ec #ch #idb #eb #de #ace #eb #dd #bcf #eb #dc #cch #eb #db #dci #eb #da #eda #eb #dj #fdb #eb #ci #gdc #eb #ch #hbh #eb #cg #iab #ea #dd #ajc #ea #dc #bjf #ea #db #ca #ea #da #dac #ea #dj #eaf #ea #ci #fai #ea #ch #gje #ea #cg #gia #ea #cf #hgg #ej #dc #aje #ej #db #bji #ej #da #cad #ej #dj #dai #ej #ci #ebc #ej #ch #fa #ej #cg #fih #ej #cf #ghe #ej #ce #hgb #di #db #ajf #di #da #bab #di #dj #cah #di #ci #dbe #di #ch #eac #di #cg #fja #di #cf #fi #di #ce #ggh #di #cd #hfg #dh #da #ajh #dh #dj #bae #dh #ci #cbc #dh #ch #dac #dh #cg #ejb #dh #cf #eib #dh #ce #fhb #dh #cd #ggb #dh #cc #hfa #dg #dj #aji #dg #ci #bah #dg #ch #cji #dg #cg #dj #dg #cf #dia #dg #ce #ehc #dg #cd #fgd #dg #cc #gfe #dg #cb #hef #df #ci #aaa #df #ch #bjc #df #cg #bif #df #cf #chh #df #ce #dh #df #cd #egc #df #cc #ffe #df #cb #geg #df #ca #he #de #ch #jid #de #cg #ahg #de #cf #bha #de #ce #cge #de #cd #dfi #de #cc #efb #de #cb #fef #de #ca #ge #de #cj #hbe #dd #cg #jie #dd #cf #ai #dd #ce #bhe #dd #cd #chj #dd #cc #dge #dd #cb #egj #dd #ca #ffe #dd #cj #gda #dd #bi #haf #dc #cf #jif #dc #ce #aib #dc #cd #bhh #dc #cc #cgg #dc #cb #dha #dc #ca #egg #dc #cj #fed #dc #bi #gca #dc #bh #hjh #db #ce #jig #db #cd #aie #db #cc #bib #db #cb #ci #db #ca #dhg #db #cj #efe #db #bi #fdc #db #bh #gba #db #bg #gii #da #cd #jii #da #cc #aig #da #cb #bif #da #ca #cie #da #cj #dgd #da #bi #eeb #da #bh #fcb #da #bg #gaa #da #bf #ghi #dj #cc #aj #dj #cb #bj #dj #ca #cj #dj #cj #ch #dj #bi #df #dj #bh #ed #dj #bg #fb #dj #bf #gj #dj #be #gh #ci #cb #aja #ci #ca #bjc #ci #cj #bhd #ci #bi #cfe #ci #bh #ddf #ci #bg #ebg #ci #bf #fjh #ci #be #fhi #ci #bd #gg #ch #ca #ajc #ch #cj #ahe #ch #bi #bfg #ch #bh #cdi #ch #bg #dcb #ch #bf #ead #ch #be #eif #ch #bd #fgh #ch #bc #gfj #cg #cj #jhc #cg #bi #afg #cg #bh #be #cg #bg #ccc #cg #bf #dag #cg #be #ej #cg #bd #ehc #cg #bc #ffg #cg #bb #ge #cf #bi #jhd #cf #bh #afi #cf #bg #bec #cf #bf #ccg #cf #be #dba #cf #bd #ejf #cf #bc #ei #cf #bb #fgd #cf #ba #geh #ce #bh #jhe #ce #bg #ag #ce #bf #bef #ce #be #cda #ce #bd #dbf #ce #bc #eaa #ce #bb #eig #ce #ba #fhb #ce #bj #gfg #cd #bg #jhf #cd #bf #agb #cd #be #bei #cd #bd #cde #cd #bc #dca #cd #bb #eag #cd #ba #fjc #cd #bj #fi #cd #ai #ggf #cc #bf #jhg #cc #be #agd #cc #bd #bfb #cc #bc #cdi #cc #bb #dcf #cc #ba #ebc #cc #bj #fa #cc #ai #fih #cc #ah #ghe #cb #be #jhh #cb #bd #agf #cb #bc #bfe #cb #bb #cec #cb #ba #dda #cb #bj #ebi #cb #ai #fah #cb #ah #gjf #ca #bd #jhi #ca #bc #agi #ca #bb #bfh #ca #ba #ceg #ca #bj #ddf #ca #ai #ecf #ca #ah #fbe #cj #bc #ji #cj #bb #aha #cj #ba #bga #cj #bj #cfa #cj #ai #deb #cj #ah #edb #bi #bb #jia #bi #ba #ahc #bi #bj #bgd #bi #ai #cff #bi #ah #deg #bh #ba #jic #bh #bj #ahe #bh #ai #bgh #bh #ah #cg #bg #bj #jid #bg #ai #ahg #bg #ah #bha #bf #ai #jie #bf #ah #ai #be #ah #jif ------------------- ,no fur!r d$uction %all be made :5 clo? is m ?an #ae in*es n>r[] ?an ! re$ space1 or :5 clo? is n>r[] ?an #ah in*es4 ,fractions ( an in* n to be recogniz$ "u ?is clause4 #e4 ,re$s4--,a #fj re$ be+ tak5 z ! /&>d1 p] c5t4 %all be d$uct$ = e two ends or c\nts ( re$ f #fj to #ej1 b no d$uction %all be made bel[ #ej4 p] c5t4 %all be add$ = e two ends or c\nts ( re$ f #fj to #fh1 #a p] c5t4 f #fh to #ajj2 #a p] c5t4 f #ajj to #aaj2 & #b p] c5t4 f #aaj to #acb4 ,all additions or d$uctions "u ?is clause to be add$ to or d$uct$ f ! price ( ! /&>d #fj re$4 -------------------- ,d$uctions f /&>d4 ------------------- ,c\nt (,p]c5tage4 re$4 ------------------- #ej #c #eb #c #ed #b #ef #a #eh #fj /&>d ------------------- ---------------------------------------- -- ,additions to /&>d4 ------------------- ,c\nt (,p]c5tage4 re$4 ------------------- #fb #fd #a #ff #b #fh #c #gj #d #gb #e #gd #f #gf #g #gh #h #hj #i #hb #aj #hd #aa #hf #ab #hh #ac #ij #ad #ib #ae #id #af #if #ag #ih #ah #ajj #ai #ajb #bj #ajd #bb #ajf #bc #ajh #be #aaj #bf #aab #bh #aad #cj #aaf #cb #aah #cd #abj #cf #abb #ch #abd #dj #abf #db #abh #dd #acj #df #acb #dh ------------------- #f4 ,picks4--,l[ ,picks4--,an addition ( #a p] c5t4 %all be made = ea* pick or fraction ( a pick bel[ #aa1 ?us3-- ,bel[ #aa to & includ+ #aj1 #a p] c5t4 #aj #i1 #b #i #h1 #c #h #g1 #d & s on1 add+ #a p] c5t4 = ea* pick or fraction ( a pick4 ,high ,picks4--,an addition ( #a p] c5t4 %all be made = ea* pick :5ev] !y exce$ ! foll[+3-- ,weft bel[ #bf's4 :5 picks exce$ #af #bf's to #ci's inclusive #ah #dj's & above #bj ,9 mak+ additions = high picks1 any fraction ( a pick less ?an ! half %all n h any all[ance2 exactly ! half-pick %all h p] c5t4 add$2 & any fraction ov] ! half-pick %all h #a p] c5t4 add$4 #g4 ,twi/4--,! /&>d be+ #bh's or f9]1 ! foll[+ additions %all be made :5 co>s] twi/ is wov5 9 ! foll[+ re$s3-- ,bel[ #bh's to #bj's 9 #fd to #fg re$ inclusive1 #a p] c5t4 #fh #ga #b #gb #ge #c ,bel[ #bj's to #ad's 9 #ef #ei #a #fj #fc #b #fd #fg #c & s on at ! same rate4 ,:5 twi/ is wov5 9 co>s] re$s no addition %all be made4 #h4 ,weft4--,ord9>y ,p9 ,cops4--,! /&>d be+ #ca's to #ajj's1 bo? inclusive1 %all be reckon$ equal4 ,above #ajj's #a p] c5t4 %all be add$ = e #aj hanks or fraction !re(4 ,9 l[] numb]s ?an #ca's ! foll[+ additions %all be made3-- ,= #cj's add #a p] c5t4 #bi's1 #bh's1 add #b p] c5t4 #bg's1 #bf's1 #c #be's1 #bd's1 #d #bc's1 #bb's1 #f #ba's1 #bj's1 #h #ai's1 #ah's1 #aj #ag's1 #af's1 #ac #ae's1 #ad's1 #af ,l>ge ,cops4--,:5 weft ( ! foll[+ c\nts is spun into l>ge cops1 s t !re are n m ?an n9ete5 cops to ! lb41 ! foll[+ additions %all be made 9 place ( ! all[ance provid$ = p9 cops 9 ! prec$+ table3-- ,= #bi's1 #bh's1 add #a p] c5t4 #bg's1 #bf's1 #b #be's1 #bd's1 #bc's1 #c #bb's1 #ba's1 #bj's1 #d #ai's1 #ah's1 #f #ag's1 #af's1 #h #ae's1 #ad's1 #aj #i4 ,f\r-/ave ,twills4--,l[ ,picks4--,9 f\r-/ave twills an addition ( #a p] c5t4 = ea* pick or fraction !re( bel[ ! picks m5tion$ 9 ! foll[+ table %all be made :5 us+ weft z foll[s3-- ,bel[ #bf's1 ! addition %all beg9 at #ac #bf's to #ci's1 inclusive1 #ad #dj's & above1 #ae ,high ,picks4--,:5 us+ weft-- ,bel[ #bf's1 ! addition = high picks %all beg9 at #ba #bf's to #ci's1 inclusive1 #bb #dj's & above1 #bc ,9 mak+ additions = high picks any fraction ( a pick less ?an ! half %all n h any all[ance2 exactly ! half-pick %all h p] c5t4 add$1 & any fraction ov] ! half %all h ! full #a p] c5t4 add$4 #aj4 ,splits4--,! foll[+ additions %all be made = splits3-- ,"o split uncut1 add #e p] c5t4 ,two splits #g ,empty d5ts %all n be consid]$ splits4 #aa4 ,all ! =ego+ additions & d$uctions %all be made sep>ately4 ,?is li/ is subject to a d$uction ( #aj p] c5t4 99 99 99 99 99 ,= fancy clo?s ! ,,*orley ,,li/1 #ahhf1 is ! "o mo/ commonly us$4 ,?is is z foll[s3-- ,d\ble-,lift ,jacqu>ds4--,to be paid ! foll[+ ov] pla9 clo? prices3-- ,= clo?s ) pla9 gr\nds1 #cj p] c5t4 ,= clo?s ) sat9 gr\nds1 #be ,brocades1 damasks1 & cramm$ /ripes ) ?ree or m ends 9 a d5t1 to be paid = by ! numb] ( ends p] in*4 ,picks #ah to #cj p] qu>t] in*1 #a p] c5t4 p] pick2 f #cj to #dj picks1 p] c5t42 all above #dj picks1 p] c5t4 in/ead ( #a p] c5t4 ,lace brocades1 #e p] c5t4 extra4 ,s+le-lift jacqu>ds to be paid #aj p] c5t4 ab\t d\ble-lift ma*9es4 ,! above applies to ,jacqu>ds only4 ,dobby & ,tappet ,looms 7except ,sat9s74--,to be paid ! foll[+ above pla9 clo? prices-- ,up to & includ+-- #d /aves #ab p] c5t4 #e #ac #f #ad #g #ae #h #af #i #ag #aj #ah #aa #ai #ab #bj #ac #ba #ad #bb #ae #bc #af #bd #ag #be #ah #bf #ai #bg #bj #bh ,/ripes & o!r clo?s ) ?ree or m ends 9 a d5t to be paid = by ! numb] ( ends p] in*4 ,9 s+le-%uttle *ecks1 h&k]*iefs1 & all special classes ( goods 9 :i* m ?an "o pick is put 9 "o %$1 all lo/ picks %all be c\nt$4 ,pla9 h&k]*iefs1 #gb re$s & bel[1 to be paid #e p] c5t4 extra4 ,s+le-%uttle cord *ecks ) m ?an two picks 9 "o %$ to be paid #b p] c5t4 less4 ,lace /ripes & o!r special classes ( goods %all be paid extra z p] special arrangem5t to be agre$ ^u by ,employ]s' & ,op]atives' ,associations4 ,! foll[+ example w %[ ! me?od ( calculat+ ! price to be paid = weav+ "u ! ,uni=m ,li/3-- ,example4--,f9d ! weav+ ( a #dd-;in* clo?1 #dj y>ds long1 wov5 9 a loom #dh-;in* re$ space1 #ib re$1 #cj picks p] qu>t]-in*1 #dj's twi/1 #fj's weft4 #b;d4 p] pick /&>d #ji #d p] c5t4 add$ = re$ space ----- #bji #cace #ae p] c5t4 add$ = re$ ------ #bdjce price p] pick1 #ajj y>ds1 ) /&>d picks #cj picks ------- #gbajej price = #cj picks #ajj y>ds #dj y>ds ---------- #ajj7bhhdbjjj ---------- #bhhdbjj price = #dj y>ds #bhhdbjj #aj p] c5t4 add$ = high picks --------- #cagbfbjj ,total4 ,f ?is mu/ be d$uct$ #aj p] c5t41 z p] agreem5t1 :i* w give #bheece p5ce z ! actual price to be paid = weav+ ?is piece ( clo?4 ,! foll[+ example includes ! all[ance = n>r[ clo? wov5 9 broad looms3-- ,example4--,f9d ! weav+ price = #ch-;in* clo? wov5 9 a #dh-;in* re$ space loom1 #ej re$1 #ejg divid5d1 #ej *ange :eel1 #ge y>ds long1 #cb's twi/1 #cf's weft4 #b;d4 p] pick /&>d #ji #d p] c5t4 add$ = re$ space --- #bji #jghcge #cge p] c5t4 d$uct$ = re$ -------- #bjaafbe price p] pick1 #ajj y>ds1 #ej re$1 #dh-;in* loom4 #ejg --- #ajad picks p] qu>t] in*4 #ej #bjaaf #ajad picks #ge y>ds ------------------------------- #ajj y>ds #aebhcbah price = #ge y>ds #aebhcb #a p] c5t4 add$ = pick --------- #aedcfjej #fcgejh #dac p] c5t4 d$uct$ = n>r[ clo? --------- #adgihedb price p] li/ #adgihedb #aj p] c5t4 d$uction ---------- #accahfhgh net price4 ,9 mak+ ! additions & d$uctions x is important t !y %\ld be made 9 ! above ord]4 ,! ,co/ ( a ,piece ( ,clo?4--,besides ! co/ ( mat]ial & ! weav+ wage1 ! exp5ses ( ! manufactur] mu/ be tak5 into acc\nt4 ,:5 a manufactur] makes only "o k9d ( clo?1 8 exp5ses w obvi\sly n be s proportionately great z ano!r manufactur]'s :o only takes a s+le ord] ( a p>ticul> make4 ,! exp5ses also v>y ) ! di/rict & di/ance f ! m>ket1 & ) o!r circum/ances4 ,a manufactur] kn[s f exp]i5ce exactly :at am\nt ( exp5ses to all[ 9 diff]5t classes ( fabrics 9 8 own case1 & 9 quot+ prices = pla9 or fancy clo?s he usually includes "u ! t]m 8exp5ses0 all ! items ( co/ f ! c>riage ( ! y>n to ! deliv]y ( ! clo?1 includ+ w9d+1 w>p+1 siz+1 wa/e1 & o!r fix$ exp5ses 9 ! mill4 ,! exp5ses are usually calculat$ 9 proportion to ! weav+ wage1 & a manufactur] quotes 8d\ble weav+0 or 8?ree times weav+10 accord+ to ! class ( fabric 9 "q4 ,! foll[+ example w illu/rate ! pr9ciple ( e/imat+ ! co/ ( a piece4 ,f9d ! co/ ( a piece1 #cd in*es full1 #ge y>ds s4s4 7%ort /ick71 #ai #ah1 #cb's_/#dj's4 ,twi/ at #g;d4 p] lb41 weft at #g;d4 p] lb4 ,weav+ #bs4 ,exp5ses equal to weav+4 ,! #cd-;in* clo? w\ld /&1 say1 #cf in*es 9 ! re$4 ,! #ge-y>ds clo?1 8%ort /ick10 or #cf in*es to ! y>d1 w require1 say1 #gh y>ds ( w>p4 ,a clo? c\nt+ #ai #ah1 nom9al1 is usually wov5 9 a #fh or #gj re$1 & ! picks p] in* w be ab\t #ff or #fg actually4 ,assum+ t ! clo? /&s #cf in*es 9 a #gj re$1 & ! picks p] in* are #fg1 we get-- #cf in*es #gh y>ds #gj re$ #g;d4 ------------------------------------- #ea4ahh;d41 co/ ( twi/1 #hdj #cb's & #cf in*es #ge y>ds #fg picks #g;d4 ---------------------------------------- - #dj4ch;d41 co/ ( weft4 #hdj #dj's d4 #ea4ahh co/ ( twi/ #dj4ch co/ ( weft #bd4jj weav+ wage #bd4jj exp5ses ------- #aci4efh co/ ( piece #aas4 #g;d4 ,! am\nt all[$ = exp5ses 9 ! prec$+ example is p]haps suffici5t = mo/ clo?s wov5 on dobbies1 b m is requir$ = jacqu>d-wov5 fabrics4 ,if #aas4 #g;d4 is quot$ = ! above clo?1 ! price is said to be bas$ on 8d\ble weav+40 ,= jacqu>d fabrics ! price is usually bas$ on #b to #c times weav+1 & 9 special cases1 su* z new /yles1 an extra pr(it is put ^u ! #c-times weav+4 ,sometimes ! exp5ses are said to be #e or #aj p] c5t4 m ?an weav+4 ,if ! weav+ wage 7 #bs4 #f;d41 & ! exp5ses #aj p] c5t4 m ?an weav+1 ! exp5ses w\ld be #bs4 #i;d4 ,contraction4--,! l5g? ( w>p requir$ to weave a piece ( a giv5 l5g? w v>y ) ! patt]n or weave ( ! clo?1 & dep5ds also on ! ela/icity ( ! y>n & ! c\nts ( bo? w>p & weft4 ,ow+ to ?is diff]5ce 9 ! ela/icity ( v>i\s classes ( y>ns1 & ! v>iation 9 ! ela/icity ( ! same y>n at diff]5t degrees ( t5sion1 x is impossible to lay d[n rules = ! calculation ( ! exact w>p l5g? = a giv5 l5g? ( piece1 or = ! exact wid? 9 ! re$ = a requir$ wid? ( piece4 ,! l5g? ( w>p requir$ c only be obta9$ ) exactness f exp]i5ce1 especially 9 fancy clo?s4 ,z previ\sly /at$1 tw(old y>ns are m ela/ic ?an s+le2 inde$1 ) "s k9ds ( tw(old ,am]ican y>ns1 su* z are us$ 9 velvets1 ! p]c5tage ( contraction becomes less ) an increase 9 ! numb] ( picks1 ow+ to ! increase ( t5sion ^u ! y>n1 :i* causes x to /ret* m4 ,r\ghly1 ! am\nt ( contraction to all[ 9 ! w>p c be obta9$ by tak+ into acc\nt ! c\nts ( weft & ! numb] ( int]sections :i* ! w>p makes ) ! weft4 ,! ?ick] ! c\nts ( weft ! m ! w>p w be b5t out ( a /raight l9e1 also ) an increase 9 ! numb] ( picks ! am\nt ( take-up or contraction w increase4 ,?is does n v>y 9 a regul> mann]1 z ! angle :i* ! w>p makes 9 b5d+ ov] ! weft *anges ) any v>iation 9 ! picks4 ,fur!rmore1 ! great] ! t5sion on ! w>p y>n ! m x w /ret*1 & also ! m x w compress ! weft at ! po9t ( int]section4 ,a r\gh e/imate only c !re=e be made if !re is no previ\s exp]i5ce 9 ! same class ( goods to guide ! manufactur]4 ,a me?od ( r\ghly e/imat+ ! p]c5tage ( mill+-up ( ! w>p is to multiply ! int]sections ( ! w>p p] in* by a numb] f\nd by exp]i5ce to give ! "r result1 & to divide ?is product by ! c\nts ( weft us$4 ,= r heavily pick$ clo?s ! multipli] #d gives a fairly accurate result1 & 9 clo?s ) a m$ium numb] ( picks & m$ium c\nts ! multipli] #c w be us$4 ,9 "s classes ( goods ! multipli] requires to be #e2 b :5 a correct multipli] is f\nd = a c]ta9 class ( goods1 x w s]ve = *anges 9 t class4 ,! sy/em is c]ta9ly n accurate 9 all cases1 b x embraces r\ghly ! diff]5t causes :i* alt] ! p]c5tage ( contraction or mill+-up 9 ! w>p1 & is !re=e ( "s use 9 practice4 ,example4--,f9d ! l5g? ( w>p requir$ to weave a piece ( #e-/ave sat9 #id y>ds long 7#cf in*es to ! y>d71 #id re$1 #ahj picks p] in*1 #fj's twi/1 #gj's weft4 ,! numb] ( int]sections p] in* w be two-fif?s ( ! numb] ( picks1 z ! w>p int]sects twice e five picks or patt]n4 #ahj #gb int]sections p] in*2 & #gb #d ----------- #d p] c5t4 contraction4 #gj's c\nts ,! l5g? ( w>p requir$ to weave ! #id y>ds piece w\ld !re=e1 r\ghly1 be #ih y>ds4 ,9 a pla9 clo? ! contraction is mu* m ?an 9 a sat91 & ! p]c5tage is great] 9 heavily pick$ clo?s ?an light ones4 ,9 a pla9 clo? (1 say1 #abj picks p] in*1 #fj's twi/1 #gj's weft1 ! p]c5tage ( take-up w r\ghly be z foll[s3-- ,int]sections p] in* #abj #d --- #gj7dhj7f-f_/g p] c5t4 contraction4 #dbj --- #fj ,9 a pla9 clo? ! w>p int]sects e pick1 & s ! int]sections p] in* are ! same z ! ends p] in*4 ,9 a 8two & two0 twill ! w>p int]sects twice 9 f\r picks1 & ! int]sections p] in* w be "o-half ! picks4 ,9 m m$ium clo?s ! multipli] #c is us$2 z1 = example3-- ,f9d p]c5tage ( contraction 9 a piece ( pla9 clo? wov5 ) #fj picks p] in*1 #cb's twi/1 #dj's weft4 #fj #c ----------- #d p] c5t4 #dj's c\nts ,9 fancy clo?s exp]i5ce is ! only guide z to ! w>p l5g? requir$1 b 9 /rip$ clo?s & simil> fabrics wov5 f "o beam ! contraction ( ! :ole w be t ( ! tighte/ weave 9 ! patt]n4 ,9 a fabric 9 :i* !re are only a few pla9 ends 9 ! patt]n1 ! o!r ends be+ loosely int]wov51 x does n foll[ t ! take-up w be z mu* z 9 a pla9 clo?1 z ! pla9 ends w compress ! weft m at ! po9t ( int]section ?an c\ld occur if all ! ends 7 weav+ pla94 ,te/+ ,y>n4--,x (t5 occurs t only a %ort l5g? ( y>n is available = be+ weight$ :5 x is requir$ to te/ x = ! c\nts4 ,if x is requir$ to te/ ! weft 9 a piece ( grey clo? x is usual to take out ( ! clo? #abj y>ds1 or "o 8lea40 ,?is is "o-sev5? ( a hank1 & !re=e if ! weight ( #abj y>ds is divid$ into #a1jjj gra9s--! "o-sev5? "p ( a p\nd--! quoti5t w be ! c\nts ( ! y>n4 ,! reason ( ?is w be obvi\s :5 x is rememb]$ t if ! weight ( "o hank is divid$ into #gjjj gra9s1 or #a lb41 ! result is ! numb] ( hanks 9 #a lb41 or ! c\nts4 ,! c\nts are bas$ ^u ! numb] ( hanks 9 #a lb4 avoirdupois1 & z ?is weight is n suitable = weigh+ small quantities1 x is necess>y to weigh !m 9 ,troy weight4 ,z ne>ly z possible #gjjj gra9s ,troy #a lb4 avoirdupois4 ,example4--,if #abj y>ds ( cotton weft weighs #bj gra9s1 :at c\nts is x8 #ajjj --------- #ej's c\nts4 #bj gra9s ,if x is requir$ to "k ! numb] ( gra9s :i* #abj y>ds ( any c\nt %\ld weigh1 ! me?od ( proc$ure is ! rev]se ( ! =ego+4 ,example4--,h[ _m gra9s %\ld #abj y>ds ( #dj's y>n weigh8 #ajjj gra9s ----------- #be gra9s4 #dj's c\nts ,:5 te/+ ! c\nts ( cops1 x is usual to wrap two1 ?ree1 or f\r cops1 9 ord] to arrive at a m satisfactory te/4 ,if two leas1 or two-sev5?s ( a hank1 are weigh$1 ! c\nts c be obta9$ by divid+ ! weight into #bjjj gra9s1 or two-sev5?s ( #a lb4 ,if ?ree leas1 or #cfj y>ds1 are weigh$1 divide ! weight into #cjjj gra9s1 & ! result is ! c\nts4 ,if #dhj y>ds are weigh$1 ! divid5d is #djjj2 if #fjj y>ds1 or five leas1 are weigh$1 ! divid5d w be #ejjj2 if six leas1 or #gbj y>ds1 are weigh$1 ! divid5d is #fjjj2 & :5 sev5 leas1 or "o hank1 is weigh$1 ! divid5d w be #gjjj gra9s1 or #a lb4 ,z x takes a consid]able "t to take #abj y>ds ( weft out ( a piece1 a %ort] l5g? is (t5 weigh$ & ! c\nts f\nd !refrom4 ,a balance is ext5sively us$ :i* regi/]s ! c\nts :5 tw5ty y>ds ( y>n are put ^u ! po9t]4 ,?is is a v useful1 ?\gh n always accurate1 me?od4 ,:5 any odd l5g? ( y>n is weigh$1 ! c\nts may be obta9$ by proportion1 ?us-- ,if #cd y>ds ( y>n h be5 f\nd to weigh #h gra9s1 :at c\nt is x8 ,! y>ds 9 #a lb4 c fir/ be f\nd z foll[s3-- gra9s gra9s y>ds #h 3 #gjjj #cd #cd ------- #h7bchjjj ------- #bigej y>ds 9 #a lb42 & ?is divid$ by #hdj w give ! c\nts1 ?us3-- #bigej ----- #ceda c\nts4 #hdj ,f ?is we get ! =mula3-- #gjjj y>ds weigh$ -------------------- c\nts4 #hdj c\nts ,?is is a v useful =mula1 z :5 only a small piece ( clo? is available to be te/$ x is necess>y to get z ne> z possible to ! c\nts f weigh+ sometimes only #aj or #ae y>ds1 or any odd l5g?4 ,a calculation may occur 9 ! foll[+ =m3-- ,h[ _m gra9s %\ld #af y>ds ( #bj's cotton weigh8 ,!re are #hdj #bj #af1hjj y>ds ( #bj's 9 #a lb41 or #gjjj gra9s4 ,!n if #af1hjj y>ds weigh #gjjj gra9s1 h[ _m gra9s w #af y>ds weigh8 y>ds y>ds gra9s #afhjj 3 #af #gjjj 3 #ff gra9s4 ,?is may be /at$ 9 a =mula z foll[s3-- #gjjj y>ds weigh$ -------------------- weight 9 gra9s4 #hdj c\nts ,/aub's ,y>n ,balance is a small balance :i* is made to te/ ! c\nts ( v small quantities ( y>n4 ,a template is giv5 ) ! balance1 & ! y>n is cut into l5g?s ! size ( ! template1 ab\t two in*es4 ,"o end ( ! balance is slightly heavi] ?an ! o!r1 & ! numb] ( ?reads ! size ( ! template :i* are requir$ to draw ! balance indicate ! c\nts ( ! y>n4 ,if tw5ty ?reads or ab\t #dj in*es balance ! small weight1 ! c\nt ( ! y>n is #bj's1 & s on4 ,! pr9ciple is ! same z if a #a lb4 weight 7 put on "o end ( a balance1 9 :i* case ! numb] ( hanks requir$ to draw ! weight w\ld indicate ! c\nts1 because if #bj hanks #a lb4 ! c\nts are #bj's1 & if #ba hanks #a lb4 ! c\nts are #ba's4 ,! balance may be made to weigh any l5g?1 accord+ to ! weight on "o end ( ! balance4 ,! =m 9 :i* x is usually made makes x specially suitable = te/+ ! c\nts 9 small patt]ns ( a few in*es4 ,! te/ is1 ( c\rse1 only approximate1 z c\ld only be expect$ f weigh+ s %ort a l5g?4 ,if ! =ego+ examples are ?or\ghly und]/ood1 ! foll[+ w n be f\nd difficult4 ,if a w>p has #bjjj ends1 & is #ejj y>ds long1 & weighs #fj lbs41 :at c\nts is x8 ,! ends multipli$ by ! l5g? w give ! total l5g? ( y>n 9 ! w>p1 & ?is divid$ by #hdj w give ! hanks4 ,if ! hanks are divid$ by ! weight1 ! result w be ! c\nts4 ,! result may be obta9$ at once z foll[s3-- #bjjj #ejj ---------- #aihd c\nts4 #hdj #fj ,if a beam has #bbjj ends1 ! c\nts be+ #dj's1 & ! weight #ej lbs41 f9d ! l5g?4 ,by multiply+ #dj by #hdj ! y>ds 9 #a lb4 are obta9$1 & multiply+ ?is by #ej1 ! y>ds ( y>n on ! beam are arriv$ at4 ,if ?is is divid$ by ! ends 9 ! w>p1 ! result w be ! l5g? ( w>p ?us3-- #dj #hdj #ej ------------- #gfcf y>ds4 #bbjj ,a simple me?od ( m5tally calculat+ ! numb] ( hanks 9 a piece is z foll[s3-- ,a w>p #hd y>ds long w conta9 j "o-t5? z _m hanks z ends4 ,?us a w>p ( #bjjj ends1 #hd y>ds long1 conta9s #bjj hanks4 ,?is c be prov$ z foll[s3-- #bjjj #hd --------- #bjj hanks4 #hdj ,! numb] ( hanks 9 a w>p #hd y>ds long c ?us be se5 at once1 & x is a v simple matt] to m5tally calculate ! diff]5ce = any o!r l5g?4 ,! hanks ( weft c also be calculat$ m5tally 9 a simil> mann]4 ,if ! piece is #hd y>ds1 ! c\nts multipli$ by ! wid? & divid$ by #aj w give ! numb] ( hanks requir$ = #hd y>ds4 ,?us1 f9d ! hanks ( weft 9 a piece #cd in*es wide1 #hd y>ds long1 #fj picks p] in*4 #fj #cd ------- #bjd hanks4 #aj ,! calculation is really simpl] ?an x looks 9 ! above =m1 z ! divid+ by #aj c be done by simply po9t+ (f ! la/ figure 9 ! product ( ! picks & wid?4 ,! =mula may be prov$ correct by work+ out fully z foll[s3-- #cd #hd #fj ------------ #bjd hanks4 #hdj ,?is sy/em ( m5tally calculat+ ! hanks is v useful1 z x s]ves z a *eck ^u a full calculation4 ,! ,firmness ( ,clo?4--,! numb] ( ends & picks p] in* :i* c advantage\sly be put into a fabric dep5ds ^u ! numb] ( int]sections p] in* 9 ! patt]n or weave1 & on ! c\nts or diamet]s ( ! y>ns us$4 ,9 a pla9 clo? wov5 ) #cb's twi/ & #cb's weft1 ! numb] ( ?reads p] in* :i* c\ld be put into ! clo? )\t undue compression w\ld be a little m ?an "o-half ! numb] :i* c\ld be laid side by side t\*+ ea* o!r4 ,! reason = ?is is t ! w>p & weft ?reads int]lace ) ea* o!r e pick1 & !re=e1 suppos+ t #aef ?reads ( #cb's occupy "o in* :5 laid side by side1 "o-half ( ^! ?reads w\ld h to be left out to all[ ( ! int]section ( ! weft betwe5 e end4 ,9 a 8two & two0 twill ! weft int]sects once = e two ends1 or twice 9 ! patt]n2 !re=e !re are f\r ?reads & two int]sections 9 ! patt]n4 ,x is obvi\s1 !re=e1 t to keep ! same firmness 9 ! twill z 9 ! pla9 clo? ) ! same y>ns1 a l>g] numb] ( ?reads p] in* bo? 9 w>p & weft w be requir$4 ,to keep ! same 8firmness0 ! ?reads mu/ be kept z close toge!r 9 "o clo? z 9 ! o!r1 & z 9 a pla9 clo? "o-half ! ?reads :i* occupy "o in* are dropp$ out1 s 9 a twill ) two int]sections = f\r ends !re mu/ be "o-?ird ( ! ends occupy+ "o in* left out4 ,?us ) #cb's y>n1 ( :i* ! diamet] is #a_/aef ( an in*1 !re w require to be ab\t #ajb ?reads p] in* 9 a 8two & two0 twill4 ,a p]fectly balanc$ pla9 clo? may be def9$ z a clo? 9 :i* ! w>p & weft y>ns are equal 9 diamet]1 & ! spaces betwe5 ! ?reads are equal to ! diamet] ( ! y>n4 ,if ! diamet]s ( y>ns ( v>i\s c\nts are kn[n1 x is an easy matt] to f9d ! numb] ( ?reads p] in* :i* w produce ! desir$ firmness 9 any simple weave4 ,! diamet]s ( y>ns ( cotton1 wooll51 wor/$1 & o!r ?reads are giv5 by ! late ,mr4 ,t4 ,r4 ,a%5hur/ 9 an excell5t little "w on 8,textile ,calculations & ! ,/ructure ( ,fabrics10 :i* has done mu* to promote ?is bran* ( ! art ( weav+4 ,mr4 ,a%5hur/ e/imates ! diamet] ( a #cb's cotton y>n at ! #a_/adh? "p ( an in*2 b ?is is probably some:at "u ! m>k1 & 9 ! foll[+ table ,i h tak5 #a_/aef? in* z ! diamet] ( #cb's4 ,! v>iation 9 ! ?ickness ( any y>n1 & ! fact t !y are n /rictly cyl9drical1 r5d]s measurem5ts ( little avail1 b tak5 9 conjunction ) an exam9ation ( a range ( wov5 clo?s1 ! approximate or practical diamet] c be e/imat$4 ,,table ,,( ,,diamet]s ,,( ,,cotton ,,y>ns4 ------------------ ,c\nts4 ,diamet]4 ------------------ #a #bg #b #ci #c #dg #d #ee #e #fb #f #fg #g #gc #h #gh #i #hc #aj #hg #aa #ia #ab #ie #ac #ii #ad #ajc #ae #ajf #af #aaj #ag #aac #ah #aag #ai #abj #bj #abc #ba #abf #bb #abi #bc #acb #bd #ace #be #ach #bf #adj #bh #ade #cj #aea #cb #aef #cd #afj #cf #afe #ch #afi #dj #agd #db #agh #dd #ahc #df #ahg #dh #aia #ej #aie #eb #aih #ed #bjb #ef #bjf #eh #baj #fj #bac #fb #baf #fd #bbj #ff #bbd #fh #bbg #gj #bcj #gb #bcc #gd #bcg #gf #bdj #gh #bdc #hj #bdf #hb #bdi #hd #beb #hf #bef #hh #beh #ij #bfa #ib #bfd #id #bfg #if #bgj #ih #bgb #ajj #bge #aje #bhb #aaj #bhi #aae #bie #abj #cjb #abe #cjh #acj #cad #ace #cbj #adj #cbf #ade #cca #aej #ccg #afj #cdi #agj #cei #ahj #cfi #aij #chj #bjj #cij ------------------ ,! prec$+ is a table ( ! diamet]s ( cotton y>ns f #a's c\nts to #bjj's4 ,! numb] giv5 z ! diamet] is ! numb] ( ?reads :i* occupy ! space ( "o in* :5 laid z close toge!r z possible )\t compression4 ,a p]fectly balanc$ pla9 clo? w require "o-half ?is numb] ( ?reads p] in*1 plus1 p]haps1 #e p] c5t4 = ! ?reads be+ =c$ some:at out ( ! same plane 9 weav+4 ,relative ,diamet]s ( ,y>ns4--,! 8c\nts0 ( y>ns indicate ! numb] ( hanks 9 #a lb41 & !re=e a giv5 l5g? ( #cj's is twice z heavy z ! same l5g? ( #fj's2 b ! diamet] ( ! #cj's w n be twice t ( ! #fj's1 z ! y>ns are cyl9drical1 & ! diamet]s w v>y z ! squ>e roots ( ! areas1 :i* 9 ?is case are z #a3 #b4 ,if "o ?read is f\r times z heavy z ano!r1 & if x is ( ! same d5sity--:i* 9 ^! calculations is assum$1 al?\gh x is n /rictly correct--! diamet]s ( ! two ?reads w be z #b3 #a4 ,= example1 look+ at ! tables1 ! diamet] ( a #fj's is se5 to be ! #a_/bac ( an in*1 :il/ ! diamet] ( a ?read f\r times ! weight1 viz4 #ae's1 is se5 to be #a_/ajf ( an in*1 or exactly twice ! diamet] ( ! #fj's ?read4 ,! diamet] ( "o y>n be+ kn[n1 ! diamet] ( any o!r may be obta9$ by ! foll[+ rule3-- ,,rule4--,z ! squ>e root ( "o c\nt is to ! squ>e root ( ano!r c\nt1 s is ! diamet] ( "o to ! diamet] ( ! o!r4 ,example4--,if ! diamet] ( a #af's y>n is ! #a_/aaj? "p ( an in*1 f9d ! diamet] ( a #cf's4 7#af7 3 7#cf7 #aaj #d 3 #f #aaj 3 #afe ,ans4 ,9 ?is =m ! calculation necessitates ! extraction ( two squ>e roots1 & ) mo/ numb]s w\ld require ! use ( two fractions 9 ! calculation4 ,by squ>+ all ! ?ree t]ms ! calculation is mu* simpl]1 z 9 ! foll[+ example3-- ,example4--,if ! diamet] ( a #cb's is ! #a_/aef ( an in*1 :at is ! diamet] ( a #ej's8 #cb's 3 #ej's #aefb 3 x#b or #cb 3 #ej #bdccf 3 x#b #ej ------- #cb7abafhjj7chjbe #if --- #bef #bef ------ #hj #fd ---- #afj #afj & #chjbe #aie ,ans4 ,z ! diamet]s ( y>ns v>y z ! squ>e root ( _! c\nts1 x foll[s t ! diamet]s w always be> a c]ta9 relation to ! y>ds 9 #a lb4 ,if ?is relation is once obta9$1 x becomes easy to calculate ! diamet] ( any y>n on ?is pr9ciple4 ,tak+ ! diamet] ( a #cb's y>n f ! table1 viz4 #aef1 x w be f\nd t ?is is equal to ! squ>e root ( ! y>ds 9 #a lb41 less #e p] c5t4 ,example4 #hdj #cb ---- #afhj #bebj ----- #bfhhj yds4 9 #a lb4 ( #cb's4 #bfhhj #afd #h #e p] c5t4 --- #aef diamet] ( #cb's4 ,! numb] ( ends & picks p] in* requir$ to make pla9 clo?s ( equal firmness f diff]5t c\nts may be at once se5 f ! table ( diamet]s1 z "o-half ! numb] giv5 z ! diamet] is requir$4 ,?us if a pla9 clo? ) #gh ?reads p] in* ( #cb's is tak5 z ! /&>d1 & x is requir$ to make a clo? ( equal firmness1 ) #fj's y>ns1 ! numb] ( ?reads p] in* requir$ w\ld be #ajf4 ,9 #bj's y>ns ab\t #fb ?reads w\ld be requir$4 ,9 #af's y>ns #ee ?reads p] in*1 & s on4 ,9 twills1 or o!r regul> weaves1 ! foll[+ rule w give ! numb] ( ?reads p] in* requir$ ( any c\nt3-- ,,rule4--,z ! sum ( ! ends & int]sections 9 ! patt]n is to ! ends1 s is ! diamet] to ! numb] ( ?reads requir$4 ,example #a4--;,h[ _m ?reads p] in* are requir$ to make a p]fectly balanc$ 8#b & #a0 twill clo?1 ) #bd y>ns1 w>p & weft8 ,!re are #c ends & #b int]sections 9 ! patt]n2 !re=e #c ends #b int]sections #e2 & z #e 3 #c ends #ace diamet] 3 x #c --- #e7dje ---- #ha ?reads p] in* requir$4 ,example #b4--;,h[ _m ?reads p] in* are requir$ to make a p]fectly balanc$ 8#c up1 #b d[n1 #b up1 #b d[n twill0 ) #dd's y>ns8 ,9 ?is patt]n !re are #i ends & #d int]sections2 !re=e z #i #d 3 #i #ahc diamet] ( #dd's 3 x or1 z #ac 3 #i #ahc #i ---- #ac7afdg7abf ?reads p] in* requir$ #ac --- #cd #bf --- #hg #gh -- #i ,"o ( ! mo/ useful purposes to :i* a k ( ?is pr9ciple c be put is 9 *ang+ ! weave ( a fabric1 to f9d ! ?reads p] in* ( a giv5 c\nt ( y>n requir$ to keep ! same firmness z 9 a sample clo?4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t ! ^w 8firmness0 is "h us$ z imply+ t ! space betwe5 ! ?reads be>s ! same relation to ! diamet]s ( ! ?reads 9 bo? cases1 or1 if ! giv5 clo? is p]fect1 ! propos$ "o w also be p]fect4 ,suppose x is desir$ to make a 8two & two0 twill ( ! same 8firmness0 z a pla9 clo? made ) #ajc ?reads p] in*4 ,! y>ns be+ ! same1 ! numb] ( ?reads p] in* requir$ w be z ! ends plus int]sections 9 a giv5 numb] ( ends 9 bo? patt]ns4 ,9 ! above "q ! giv5 clo? is pla91 ) #ajc ?reads p] in*1 & ! propos$ clo? is a 8two & two0 twill4 ,tak+ ! same numb] ( ?reads 9 ea* case1 we get-- ,ends ,int]sections 9 ,ends ,int]sections propos$ twill clo?4 9 giv5 pla9 clo?4 #d #b 3 #d #d #ajc 3 x or #f 3 #h #ajc #h ---- #f7hbd ---- ,ends requir$ 9 twill clo? #acg ,x mu/ n be =gott5 t x is necess>y to take an equal numb] ( ends ( ea* patt]n 9 ?is class ( calculation4 ,9 m complex patt]ns x is (t5 advisable to take ! numb] ( ends :i* is ! ,l4,c4,m4 ( ! ends 9 ! two patt]ns 9 ord] to get a complete numb] ( int]sections 9 ea* case4 ,ano!r ,example4--,if a 8two & two0 twill clo? is made ) #acg ?reads p] in*1 & x is propos$ to make a clo? ) ! same c\nts ( y>ns 9 a 8#e up1 #b d[n1 #a up1 #b d[n0 twill1 h[ _m ?reads p] in* are requir$ to keep ! same firmness8 ,9 #dj ends ( ! propos$ clo? !re are #af int]sections1 & 9 #dj ends ( ! sample clo? !re are #bj int]sections4 ,!n z #dj #af 3 #dj #bj #acg or #ef 3 #fj #acg #fj ---- #ef7hbbj7adf4h ?reads4 ,ans4 #ef #bfb #bbd ---- #chj #ccf ---- #ddj ,if x is requir$ to make a clo? ) ! same numb] ( ?reads z a sample clo?1 & to *ange ! patt]n & keep ! same firmness1 x is necess>y to *ange ! c\nts on ! foll[+ pr9ciple3-- ,,rule4--,z ! sum ( ! ends & int]sections 9 ! sample clo? is to ! sum ( ! ends & int]sections 9 ! propos$ clo?1 s is ! squ>e root ( ! c\nts 9 ! sample to ! squ>e root ( ! c\nts 9 ! propos$ clo?4 ,example4--,if a pla9 clo? has be5 made ) #cf's y>ns1 & x is propos$ to make a 8two & two0 twill ) ! same numb] ( ?reads p] in*1 f9d ! c\nts requir$ to keep ! same 8firmness40 ,ends ,int]s4 ,ends ,int]s4 9 sample clo?4 9 propos$ clo?4 or #d #d 3 #d #b #cf 3 x #h 3 #f #f 3 #f -- #h7cf #d ,& #db #bjbe c\nts requir$4 ,?is may be prov$ correct by ref]r+ to ! table ( diamet]s on page #cce1 :]e x w be se5 t a pla9 clo? ) #hb ?reads p] in* ( #cf's is 8p]fect10 & a 8two & two0 twill ) #hb ?reads ( #bj's c\nts is equally p]fect4 ,to *ange ! ,c\nts1 ! patt]n & ?reads p] in* rema9+ ! same4 ,if a sample clo? has #gh ?reads p] in* ( #cb's y>n1 & x is propos$ to make a clo? ( ! same weave ) #ee ?reads p] in*1 :at c\nts ( y>n are requir$ to keep ! same 8firmness08 ,?is is simple en\gh4 ,! diamet]s ( y>ns v>y z ! squ>e root ( _! c\nts1 & !re=e z ! ?reads 9 "o clo? are to ! ?reads 9 ano!r1 s w ! squ>e root ( ! c\nts 9 "o be to ! squ>e root ( ! c\nts 9 ! o!r4 ,?reads 9 ,?reads 9 propos$ ,c\nts 9 sample4 clo?4 sample4 #gh 3 #ee #cb 3 x or z #ghb 3 #eeb #cb #fjhd 3 #cjbe #cb #cb ---- #fjej #ijge ----- #fjhd 7#ifhjj7aeia1 or #af's ne>ly c\nts #fjhd requir$ ----- #ceifj ,on ref]r+ to ! table ( diamet]s 7p4 #cce71 x w be f\nd t a pla9 clo? ) #gh ?reads ( #cb's is 8p]fect10 & t a pla9 clo? ) #ee ?reads ( #af's is also p]fect4 ,!re=e ! above calculation is correct4 ,to *ange ! ,?reads p] ,in*1 ! c\nts & patt]n rema9+ ! same4 ,if a sample has #gh ?reads p] in* ( #cb's1 & x is propos$ to weave a clo? ( ! same patt]n1 b ) #fj's y>ns1 f9d ! numb] ( ?reads p] in* requir$ to keep ! same firmness4 ,?is is simply a cont9uation ( ! previ\s /atem5t4 ,if ! two c\nts are kn[n1 ! numb] ( ?reads w v>y z ! squ>e roots ( ! c\nts2 ?us-- ,c\nts 9 ,c\nts 9 ,?reads 9 sample4 propos$ clo?4 sample4 #cb 3 #fj #gh 3 x or z #cb 3 #fj #ghb 3 x#b #fjhd #fj ------- #cb7cfejdj #aadjg #aadjg #ajf4h ?reads requir$4 ,! above may be prov$ correct by ref]r+ to ! table ( diamet]s4 ,a pla9 clo? ) #gh ?reads p] in* ( #cb's is 8p]fect10 & s is a pla9 clo? ) #ajf ?reads p] in* ( #fj's4 ,! same pr9ciple mu/ be employ$ if ! w>p & weft are ( diff]5t c\nts1 or if ! ?reads p] in* are n equal 9 w>p & weft4 ,example4--,a sample clo? is made ) #gh ends p] in* ( #cb's & #ia picks p] in* ( #dd's4 ,h[ _m picks w be requir$ to keep ! same firmness1 if ! weft only is *ang$ to #fj's8 ,c\nts 9 ,c\nts 9 sample4 propos$ clo?4 #dd 3 #fj #ia 3 x or z #dd 3 #fj #iab 3 x#b #hbha #fj ------ #dd7difhfj ------ #aabib x#b ------ & #aabib #ajf picks p] in* requir$ #ajf ,"o advantage ga9$ by a k ( ! pr9ciple ( clo? 8balance0 is t ! numb] ( picks p] in* :i* a giv5 patt]n or weave w take c easily be obta9$ by calculation4 ,?is is ( great advantage to design]s = ,jacqu>d weav+1 z x (t5 occurs t a design is made & ! c>ds cut = a patt]n :i* w n admit ( ! requir$ numb] ( picks ( ! giv5 c\nts be+ put 9 ! clo?1 :i* a slight alt]ation 9 ! gr\nd weave w\ld h r5d]$ possible4 ,to alt] ! ,weight4--,if ! weight ( a clo? is requir$ to be alt]$1 & ! same firmness kept1 ! ?reads p] in* & c\nts c be f\nd on ! same pr9ciple4 ,if a clo? is made heavi] x mu/ be done by us+ co>s] y>ns & few] ?reads2 x _c be done by us+ m ?reads1 & pres]ve ! same 8firmness0 or 8p]fection40 ,suppose a sample piece ( clo? weigh+ #aj lbs4 is made ) #ic ?reads ( #de's1 & x is propos$ to make a piece ( ! same l5g? & wid?1 b weigh+ #ae lbs4 ,to f9d ! ?reads p] in* & c\nts ( y>n to keep ! same firmness4 ,! weights ( two clo?s w v>y z ! squ>e roots ( ! c\nts if !y are ( ! same p]fection4 ,!re=e-- ,weight ( ,weight propos$ clo?4 ( sample4 ,z #ae lbs4 3 #aj lbs4 #de 3 7x7 c\nts or #aeb 3 #ajb #de to x #bbe 3 #ajj #de #ajj ---- #bbe7dejj7bj's c\nts requir$ #dej ---- #j ,to f9d ! ?reads p] in* requir$ ( ! above c\nts-- ,weight ( ,weight ( propos$ clo?4 sample4 #ae 3 #aj #ic #aj ---- #ae7icj7fb ?reads requir$4 #ij ---- #cj #cj ---- ,!n to make a piece ( ! same p]fection or firmness z ! sample piece1 & to alt] ! weight f #aj lbs4 to #ae lbs41 ! c\nts mu/ be *ang$ f #de's to #bj's1 & ! ?reads p] in* f #ic to #fb4 ,to prove ?is is correct take a piece #bj in*es wide1 #ajb y>ds long1 #ic ?reads p] in* bo? 9 w>p & weft ( #de's y>ns4 ,! weight ( ?is sample piece w be-- #bj #ajb #ic ------------- #e lbs4 ( twi/2 #hdj #de & z !re is ! same weight ( weft1 ! total weight ( ! piece w be #aj lbs4 ,n[ calculate ! weight ( a piece ( ! same l5g? & wid? ) #fb ?reads p] in* ( #bj's y>ns3-- #bj #ajb #fb ------------- #g lbs4 ( twi/2 #hdj #bj & ) ! same quantity ( weft1 ! total weight ( ! piece w be #ae lbs4 ,?is proves ! calculation to be correct s f> z alt]+ ! weight goes4 ,to see if bo? clo?s are ( ! same firmness1 ! table ( diamet]s may be ref]r$ to4 ,x w !re be se5 t a pla9 clo? ) #ic ?reads p] in* ( #de's y>n is 8p]fect10 & also t ! alt]$ clo? ) #fb ?reads ( #bj's is equally p]fect4 ,x ?us proves ! pr9ciple ( ! calculation to be correct4 ,a light] clo? may be made1 & ! same firmness kept4 ,! =mula is ! same 9 bo? cases4 ,if a clo? is made light] x mu/ be done by us+ f9] c\nts & m ?reads4 ,x _c be done by us+ few] ?reads1 z ! firmness c\ld n be kept & ! requir$ weight obta9$4 ,9 alt]+ ! weights ( clo?s "s all[ance w\ld h to be made = ! diff]5ce 9 mill+-up ) diff]5t c\nts ( y>ns & numb]s ( ?reads4 ,if a clo? is made heavi]1 ?ick] y>ns w\ld be us$1 & ! w>p l5g? to give a c]ta9 l5g? ( piece w\ld be diff]5t 9 ! sample to ! alt]$ clo?4 ,b ?is is a comp>atively small matt]1 :i* c be adju/$ ) a slight alt]ation 9 ! basis ( ! /ructure4 ,,index ,antiseptics1 #cb ,automatic looms1 #aih ,back$ clo?s1 ) weft1 #bee2 ) w>p1 #beg ,b>ley-corn patt]ns1 #bce ,beam+1 press1 #dg ---- t5sion1 #dg ,beat+ up ! weft1 #gb1 #he ----1 "* ( motion 91 #gb1 #gc ----1 di/ance mov$ by slay :il/ ! crank moves ?r\gh giv5 angle 91 #gd ----1 ecc5tricity ( slay's movem5t 91 #gb2 cause (1 #gd ----1 effect ( alt]+ position ( crank-%aft 91 #hc2 ( rev]s+ direction ( crank 91 #hd ----1 =ce ( slay 91 #gh1 #hb ----1 position ( crank 91 #gb ,becks1 size mix+1 #cj ,brake1 #ie ,calculation = two or m fold y>ns1 #cjh ---- ( contraction = diff]5t weaves & c\nts1 #cbf ---- ( co/ ( a piece1 #cbe ---- ( c\nts ( y>n f weigh+ giv5 l5g?1 #cbi ,calculation ( diamet] ( y>n1 #ccf ,calculation ( numb] ( ?reads ( giv5 c\nts requir$ to make a firm clo? 9 any weave1 #cda ---- ( quantity ( w>p & weft 9 a piece1 #caa-cac ---- ( re$s & setts1 #caj ---- ( weav+ wage1 #cbd ---- ( weight ( a giv5 l5g? ( any c\nts1 #ccj ---- to make a clo? ( equal firmness to giv5 clo? :5 *ang+ weave1 #cch ---- to pres]ve firmness & alt] weight1 #cdc ---- to pres]ve firmness :5 *ang+ ?reads p] in*1 #cda ---- to pres]ve same firmness :5 *ang+ c\nts1 #cda ,c>d-cutt+ ma*9e1 #aij ---- repeat]1 #aia ,ca/+ out1 #bhe ,*ecks produc$ by re-arrang+ twills1 #bda ,circul>-box motion1 #aae ,cle>] guide1 #h ,clipp$ or %e>$ clo?s1 #bed ,coil+ motions4 ,see ,tak+-up ,comb9$ twills1 #bbf ,cop w9d+ ma*9e1 #f ,cord+ plan = h& loom1 #ej ,cords1 #bde ,corkscrew twills1 #beg ,c\nts ( cotton y>ns1 #cjg ,c\nts ( two or m unequal ?reads twi/$ toge!r1 #cjh2 & weight ( ea* requir$ 9 giv5 weight ( result+ ?read1 #cji ,cov] on clo?1 #hf1 #hg ,crapes1 #bdh ,crimp clo?1 #bdi ,damask or twill+ ,jacqu>ds1 #afh-agb ,design1 transf]r+ f sket* to po9t pap]1 #bha ,deta*$ figures1 spots1 arrangem5t (1 #bgh-bha ,developm5t ( patt]n1 #bhb-bhe ,diagonals1 fancy1 produc$ by comb9+ unequal twills1 #bdj ---- figur$1 #bhi ,diamet]s ( cotton y>ns1 #cce ,diap]s1 #bcc ,dice *ecks1 #bcd ,direction ( twi/ 9 y>ns1 effect (1 #cjd ,dobbies1 tim+ ( movem5ts 91 #abi ---- und]motions =1 #acj1 #aca ,dobby1 ! ,blackburn1 #abg2 knife motion =1 #abg2 "* ( %$ 91 #abi ----1 ! ,keighley d\ble-lift1 #abc2 me?od ( pegg+ =1 #abf2 d\ble jacks 91 #abf2 "* ( %$ 91 #abe2 made positive1 #abi ,d\ble clo?s1 #bei ---- b\nd by pass+ back pick ov] face end1 #bfa ---- b\nd by pass+ back end ov] face pick1 #bfb ---- pla9 clo!s1 figur+1 #bfc2 b\nd toge!r1 #bff ---- %$ ,jacqu>d1 #aeg ---- twill clo? figur+1 #cjj ---- w>p face1 #beg ,d\ble weft face1 #bee ,d\ble-beat slay1 #ace ,d\p heald1 #agc ,draft1 arrang+ on po9t pap]1 #bbg ---- ! ,v1 #bcj2 patt]ns produc$ by1 #bcj-bcc ,draw+-91 #c ,drills1 #bbd ,drop-box motion1 ,diggle's1 #ajg ---- 9 pick-&-pick loom1 #aaf2 connect$ to ,jacqu>d1 #abj ---- ,:itesmi?'s1 #aab ---- ,wright ,%aw's1 #aji ,drum w9d+ ma*9e1 #ac1 #ad ,edle/on h>ness1 #aff ---- ---- design+ =1 #bid ,extra w>p1 figur+ )1 #bej2 re$+ (1 #beb ---- ---- & extra weft comb9$1 #bee ---- weft1 figur+ )1 #beb ---- figure on mock l5o gr\nd1 #bed ,fancy effects produc$ by w>p & weft pull+ ea* o!r out ( /raight l9e1 #bdi ,fa/ re$s1 #ia ,figur$ design1 #bgh ---- l5o design+1 #bie ,firmness ( clo?1 #ccc ,gauze1 plan (1 #agc 8,gloy10 #cc ,grey w>ps1 prep>ation (1 #b ,h&-loom1 #dh ,hatt]sley weft-repl5i%+ device1 #bad ,heck ( w>p+ mill1 #bb ,honeycomb designs1 #bdb ,huck patt]ns1 #bej ,jacqu>d c>d cutt+1 #adb1 #aij ---- damask or twill+1 #afh-agb ---- damask1 ,ts*orn] & ,we91 #agb ---- d\ble-%$1 #aeg ---- = cross-bord]1 #aee ---- = l5o weav+1 #aha ---- h>ness1 bord]$ patt]n1 ,norwi* tie1 #aea2 ,london tie1 #aec ---- c5tre patt]n or po9t tie1 #aed ---- ,edle/on's1 #aff2 design+ =1#afg1 #bid ---- = all-ov] patt]n1 #aci ---- ,london tie1 #aej ---- ,norwi* tie1 #add1 #aej ---- ma*9e1 orig9 (1 #acg ---- sizes (1 #aej ---- diff]5ce 9 "* ( %$ betwe5 s+le & d\ble-lift1 #acg1 #add-adh ---- d\ble-lift1 s+le-cyl9d]1 #add2 pr9ciple (1 #ade ---- d\ble-lift1 d\ble-cyl9d]1 #adf2 advantages (1 #add ---- s+le-lift1 #ach ---- op5-%$1 #aeh ---- pressure h>ness1 #afa-aff ---- split h>ness1 #afj ,jeans1 jeanettes1 #bbj ,keighley dobby1 #abc ,k5yon's und]motion = dobbies1 #aca ,lace & l5o /ripes1 #bfi ,lags1 pegg+ (1 #abf ,lappet loom1 #aic ---- :eel1 con/ruction (1 #aie ,lappets1 #aib ,l5o *ecks1 #bfh ---- crossov]s1 #age ,l5o effects1 #bff ---- full cross1 #aha ---- ,jacqu>ds1 design+ =1 #ahe ---- d\ble-lift1 #ahf ----1 imitation (1 #ahf ---- net or lace1 #agf ---- selv$ge1 #acb ---- weav+ 9 dobbies1 #agd-ahj2 use ( slack5] 91 #agd2 arrangem5t ( /aves & pegg+ plan1 #age-agh2 %ak+ motion = d\ble-lift dobbies1 #agh2 arrangem5t ( slack5]s = two d\ps1 #ahj ,lett+-(f1 #ajf ,l95 y>ns1 c\nts (1 #cjg ,li/ ( prices = weav+1 ,new ,uni=m1 #cad-cbb2 ,*orley1 #cbb ,loose re$s1 #ib ,m>k+ me*anism 9 sla%+ frame1 #ce ,m>seilles quilts1 #bih ,mildew1 #cb ,mit*el9e1 #bii ,mock l5os1 #bdc ,mono-col\r$ w>ps1 prep>ation (1 #c ,multi-col\r$ w>ps1 prep>ation (1 #e ,net l5os1 #bfg ,nor?rop weft-repl5i%+ device1 #baj ,oscillat+ tappets1 #fa ,padd$ clo?s1 #beh ,patt]ns produc$ by comb9+ alt]nate picks ( twills1 #bdj ---- by comb9+ equal twills1 #bbf2 unequal twills1 #bdj ---- by draft+1 #bbg ,patt]ns by fancy drafts1 #bch ---- by re-arrangem5t ( simple twills1 #bcf2 & ( comb9$ twills1 #bcg ,pegg+ plan mak+1 #bbh ,pick-&-pick loom1 #aaf ,pick1 =ce (1 #fi ,pick+1 ov] pick1 #fh1 #fi ---- "u pick1 #ga ,pile fabrics1 w>p1 #ahi ---- weft1 #bgj-bgg ,piqus1 #beh ,pirn w9d+ ma*9e1 #ae ---- ---- ---- disc1 #ag ,pla9 clo?1 #bah ---- draft = weav+1 #bai ---- numb] ( ?reads possible 91 #bah ---- ornam5tation (1 #bah ,plu%es1 #ahi1 #bge ,po9t draft1 #bcj ,po9t pap]1 selection (1 = diff]5t proportions ( w>p & weft1 #bij ---- use (1 #bai ,p[]-loom1 tappet %$d+ motions 91 #ea-fh ,prep>atory processes1 #a ,press] roll]1 exp&+1 #bg ,pressure h>ness1 design+ =1 #bib ---- h>nesses1 #afa-aff ,prim>y movem5ts 9 weav+1 #dh ---- tim+ (1 #he-hg ,protector1 loose re$1 #ia ---- /op rod1 #ib ,re$s & setts1 #caj ,ribs & cords1 #bde ,roll] top motion = pla9 clo?1 #fb2 #c /aves1 #fd2 #d /aves1 #fd2 #e /aves1 #fe2 #g /aves1 #ff ,sack weav+1 #bei ,sat9 draft1 #bbi ---- weaves1 #bbb ,sat91 pr9ciple ( con/ruction (1 #bbd ,scot* dress+1 #db ,section blocks1 exp&+1 #bg ---- tappets1 ,woodcr(t's1 #ei1 #fj ,sectional w>p+1 #bc ,selv$ge motion 9 sate5 loom1 #acd1 #ace ,set figures1 arrangem5t (1 #bgh-bha ,%ad+1 #bhc ,%$d+ motions1 p[]-loom1 #ea-fh ,silk y>ns1 ?r[n or net1 numb]+ (1 #cjg ,s9es & cos9es1 table (1 #ha ,s+leton's /op-motion1 #ai ,size mix+1 #bh ---- ---- = light siz+1 #cj ---- ---- = f9e c\nts1 #ca ---- ---- = m$ium siz+1 #ca ---- ---- = heavy siz+1 #cb ,sizes ( patt]ns wov5 9 ,jacqu>ds1 #bhe ,siz+1 #bh ---- ball1 #dc ---- mat]ials1 #bh ----1 sla%+ frame1 #cc2 sl[ motion 91 #cg ---- frame1 sla%]1 m>k+ motion 91 #ce1 #cf ---- ---- frictional w9d+ motion 91 #ci ---- ma*9es1 hot air dry+ 91 #ch ---- ----1 automatic supply ( size to1 #dj ,slubb+s1 #h ,solid col\r$ bord]s 9 dhooties1 #cjc ,split h>ness1 design+ =1 #bib ,splits1 motion =1 #acb ---- ,%orrock & ,taylor's motion =1 #acc ,spread+ ! w>p1 #he ,spun silk y>ns1 c\nts (1 #cjg ,/it*+-?read us$ to b9d extra w>p & extra weft1 #beb1 #bec ,/ocks & b[ls1 #fg ,/op motion1 weft =k1 #ic ---- ----1 9 beam-w>p]1 #ai ---- rod1 #ib ,/rip$ designs1 #bhh2 calculation ( re$ =1 #bhh ,tabby weave1 #bah ,tak+-up motion1 negative1 #aja2 screw & worm :eel1 #ajc ---- positive1 #ie2 ,pickles'1 #ii2 new sy/em1 #ajd ,tappets1 calculation = lift (1 #eb ----1 con/ruction (1 #ec ----1 effect ( treadle-b[l on1 #eg ---- = pla9 clo?1 #ej1 #ea1 #ec ---- = twills1 #ef1 #eh ---- oscillat+1 #fa ---- positive1 #ei ----1 spe$ (1 #hg-ia ---- ,woodcr(t's1 #ei ,t]ry clo?1 #ahg ---- loom1 #ahg ,te/+ y>ns1 #cbi ,?ree-ply1 f\r-ply clo?s1 #bfc ,toilet+s1 #big ,trav]se motions1 he>t cam1 #i1 #aj2 mangle :eel1 #aa clo?s1 #beh ,trial section1 #be ,twaddell's hydromet]1 #cj ,twills1 #bai ---- comb9$1 #bbf ,twi/+-91 #c ,tw(old y>ns1 cotton1 wor/$1 silk1 #cjh ,und]motions1 #acj1 #aca ,und]motion1 ,k5yon's1 #aca ,v-creel1 #ah1 #bc ,v-re$1 #bd ,velvet1 common1 #bgj ---- cords1 #bgf ---- ,e#a1 #bgc ---- fa/ pile1 #bgc ----1 figur$1 #cja ---- twill back1 #bgd ,velvets1 velvete5s1 #bgj1 #bgg2 def9ition (1 #bgb ,w>p l9e1 #he ,w>p+1 beam1 #ah ,w>p+ mill1 #ba ----1 sectional1 #bc ,weav+ wage calculations1 #cbd ,weft1 prep>ation (1 #f ----1 wet1 #f ---- =k1 #ic ---- pile fabrics1 #bgj ,weft-repl5i%+ devices1 automatic1 #aih-bag ---- ----1 pat5ts =1 #bji ---- ----1 ,nor?rop1 #baj ---- ----1 ,hatt]sley1 #bad ,w9d+ col\r$ y>n1 #ad ---- drum1 #ad ---- f cops to w>p]s' bobb9s1 #f ---- f r+ spools to w>p]s' bobb9s1 #f ---- f ?ro/le to w>p]s' bobb9s1 #f ,woodcr(t's section tappets1 #ei1 #fj ,wor/$ y>ns1 #cjg ,wrapp+ y>n1 #ccj ,y>n balance1 ,/aub's1 #cca ---- twi/ (1 #cje ,york%ire dress+1 #e1 #dg ,,! ,,end ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,william ,,cl[es ,,& ,,sons1 ,,limit$ ,,london ,,& ,,beccles