,libraries47 ,transcriber's note3 ,text enclosed by underscores is in italics 7italics74 ,page numbers enclosed by curly braces 7example3 #be7 have been incorporated to facilitate the use of the ,index4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,history ,,of ,,lace ,illustration3 ,,anne1 ,,daughter ,,of ,,sir ,,peter ,,vanlore1 ,,kt41 ,,first ,,wife ,,of ,,sir ,,charles ,c,,sar1 ,,kt41 ,,about #afad4 ,the lace is probably ,flemish1 ,sir ,peter having come from ,utrecht4 ,from the picture the property of her descendant1 ,captain ,cottrell-,dormer4 ,frontispiece4 ,,history ,,of ,,lace ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,bury ,,palliser ,,entirely ,,revised1 ,,re-,,written1 ,,and ,,enlarged ,,under ,,the ,,editorship ,,of ,m4 ,,jourdain ,,and ,,alice ,,dryden ,,with #bff ,,illustrations ,,new ,,york ,,charles ,,scribner',s ,,sons #aijb ,,london3 ,,printed ,,by ,,william ,,clowes ,,and ,,sons1 ,,limited1 ,,duke ,,street1 ,,stamford ,,street1 ,s4,e41 ,,and ,,great ,,windmill ,,street1 ,w4 ,,preface ,,to ,,the ,,fourth ,,edition ,nearly thirty years have elapsed since the third edition of the ,,history ,,of ,,lace was published4 ,as it is still the classical work on the subject1 and many developments in the ,art have taken place since #ahge1 it seemed desirable that a new and revised edition should be brought out4 ,the present ,revisers have fully felt the responsibility of correcting anything the late ,mrs4 ,palliser wrote2 they have therefore altered as little of the text as possible1 except where modern research has shown a statement to be faulty4 ,the chapters on ,spain1 ,alenon and ,argentan1 and the ,introductory chapter on ,needlework1 have been almost entirely rewritten4 ,much new matter has been added to ,italy1 ,england and ,ireland1 and the notices of ,cretan and ,sicilian lace1 among others1 are new4 ,the original wood-cuts have been preserved with their designations as in the #ahge edition1 which differ materially from the first two editions4 ,nearly a hundred new illustrations have been added1 and several portraits to show different fashions of wearing lace4 ,the ,revisers wish to record their grateful thanks to those who have assisted them with information or lace for illustration2 especially to ,mrs4 ,hulton1 ,count ,marcello and ,cavaliere ,michelangelo ,jesurum in ,venice1 ,contessa di ,brazza and ,contessa ,cavazza in ,italy1 ,m4 ,destre in ,brussels1 ,mr4 ,arthur ,blackborne1 ,salviati ,co41 and the ,director of the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum in ,london4 ,m4 ,,jourdain4 ,,alice ,,dryden4 ,london1 ,september1 #aija4 ,,contents ,,chap4 ,,page ,i4--,,needlework #a ,,ii4--,,cut-,,work #ad ,,iii4--,,lace #bf ,,iv4--,,italy4--,,venice--,,milan 7,milano la ,grande7--,,florence--,,the ,,abruzzi--,,romagna--,,naples--,,genoa 7,genova ,la ,superba7-- ,,cantu--,,sicily #de ,v4--,,greece--,,crete--,,turkey--,,malt a #hb ,,vi4--,,spain--,,portugal #ij ,,vii4--,,flanders--,,brussels 7,,brabant7--,,mechlin--,,antwerp--,,fla nders 7,,west7--,,flanders 7,,east7--,,hainault #aji ,,viii4--,,france ,,to ,,louis ,,xiv4 #aci ,,ix4--,,louis ,,xiv4 #aej ,x4--,,louis ,,xiv4--continued #afa ,,xi4--,,louis ,,xv4 #aga ,,xii4--,,louis ,,xvi4 ,,to ,,the ,,empire #agi ,,xiii4--,,the ,,lace ,,manufactures ,,of ,,france--,,alen,,on 7,dp4 ,orne71 ,,normandy #ahh ,,xiv4--,,argentan 7,dp4 ,orne7 #bjb ,,xv4--,,isle ,,de ,,france4--,,paris 7,dp4 ,seine7--,,chantilly 7,dp4 ,oise7 #bji ,,xvi4--,,normandy--,,seine ,,inf,,rieure--,,calvados--,,bretagne #baf ,,xvii4--,,valenciennes 7,dp4 du ,nord7--,,lille 7,dp4 du ,nord7--,,arras 7,artois7 7,dp4 ,pas-de-,calais7--,,bailleul 7,dp4 du ,nord7 #bcj ,,xviii4--,,auvergne ,,and ,v,,lay--,,le ,,puy 7,dp4 ,haute-,loire7--,,aurillac ,,and ,,murat 7,dp4 ,cantal7 #bdb ,,xix4--,,limousin--,,lorraine--,,champa gne--,,burgundy--,,lyonnois-- ,,orl,,anois--,,berry--,,poitou #bej ,,xx4--,,holland1 ,,germany1 ,,switzerland1 ,,austria ,,and ,,hungary-- ,,holland--,,saxony--,,germany 7,,north ,,and ,,south7--,,switzerland #beh ,,xxi4--,,denmark--,,sweden--,,russia #bgb ,,xxii4--,,england ,,to ,,queen ,,elizabeth #bhe ,,xxiii4--,,queen ,,elizabeth #bii ,,xxiv4--,,james ,i4 ,,to ,,the ,,restoration4--,,james ,i4--,,charles ,i4-- ,,the ,,commonwealth #cae ,,xxv4--,,charles ,,ii4 ,,to ,,the ,,house ,,of ,,hanover4--,,charles ,,ii4-- ,,james ,,ii4--,,william ,,iii4--,,queen ,,anne #cce ,,xxvi4--,,george ,i4--,,george ,,ii4 #cea ,,xxvii4--,,smuggling #ceh ,,xxviii4--,,george ,,iii4 #cfc ,,xxix4--,,the ,,lace ,,manufactures ,,of ,,england #cga ,,xxx4--,,bedfordshire--,,buckinghamshir e--,,northamptonshire--,,suffolk #cge ,,xxxi4--,,wiltshire ,,and ,,dorsetshire #cie ,,xxxii4--,,devonshire--,,honiton--,,tro lly ,,lace--,,japan #cii ,,xxxiii4--,,scotland #dah ,,xxxiv4--,,lace ,,manufactures ,,of ,,scotland #dbh ,,xxxv4--,,ireland #dce ,,xxxvi4--,,bobbin ,,net ,,and ,,machine-,,made ,,lace--,,bobbin ,,net--,,france-- ,,belgium--,,machinery ,,lace #ddg ,,appendix #dei ,,glossary ,,of ,,terms #ejc ,,index #ejg ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,,page ,,anne1 ,,daughter ,,of ,,sir ,,peter ,,vanlore1 ,,kt4 ,frontispiece ,gold ,lace found in a barrow ,fig4 #a #d ,,argentan4--,,circular ,,bobbin ,r,,seau2 ,,venetian ,,needlepoint ,,plate ,i #ab ,,italian ,,bobbin ,r,,seau2 ,,six-,,pointed ,,star-,,meshed ,,bobbin ,r,,seau2 ,,brussels ,,bobbin ,r,,seau2 ,,fond ,,chant ,,of ,,chantilly ,,and ,,point ,,de ,,paris2 ,,details ,,of ,,bobbin ,r,,seau ,,and ,,toile2 ,,details ,,of ,,needle ,r,,seau ,,and ,,buttonhole ,,stitches ,,plate ,,ii #ad ,point ,coup ,fig4 #b #ah ,,altar ,,or ,,table-,,cloth ,,of ,,fine ,,linen 7,,probably ,,italian7 ,,plate ,,iii #ah ,laces ,fig4 #c #ai ,elizabethan ,sampler #e #bb ,impresa of ,queen ,margaret of ,navarre #d #bc ,spider-work ,figs4 #f1 #g #bd ,,fan ,,made ,,at ,,burano ,,plate ,,iv #bd ,,italian ,,punto ,,reale ,v #bd ,grande ,dantelle au ,point devant l',aiguille ,fig4 #h #bh ,petite ,dantelle ,figs4 #i-ab #bi ,passement au ,fuseau ,figs4 #ac1 #ad #cj ,passement au ,fuseau ,fig4 #ae #ca ,merletti a ,piombini #af #ca ,,italian4--,,modern ,,reproduction ,,at ,,burano ,,plate ,,vi #cb ,,heraldic 7,,carnival ,,lace7 ,,vii #cb ,old ,mechlin ,fig4 #ag #ce ,,italian1 ,,venetian1 ,,flat ,,needle-,,point ,,lace ,,plate ,,viii #cf ,,portion ,,of ,a ,,band ,,of ,,needle-,,point ,,lace ,,ix #cf ,guipure ,fig4 #ah #ci ,tape ,guipure #ai #dj ,,italian4--,,point ,,de ,,venise ,,la ,,rose ,,plate ,x #dd ,,italian4--,,point ,,plat ,,de ,,venise ,,xi #df ,,italian4--,,point ,,de ,,venise ,r,,seau ,,xii #dh ,mermaid ,lace ,fig4 #bj #ej ,reticella #ba #ej ,punto a ,gropo #bb #eb ,gros ,point de ,venise #bc #eb ,punto a ,maglia #bd #ec ,punto ,tirato #be #ed ,point de ,venise ,bredes ,picotes #bf #ed ,venise ,point #bg #ee ,gros ,point de ,venise #bh #ef ,point de ,venise #bi #ef ,point ,plat de ,venise #cj #ef ,point de ,venise ,rseau #ca #eh ,burano ,point #cb #fj ,,italian4--,,modern ,,point ,,de ,,burano ,,plate ,,xiii #fj ,,italian4--,,modern ,,reproduction ,,at ,,burano ,,xiv #fb ,,italian4--,,milanese1 ,,bobbin-,,made ,,xv #fd ,reticella from ,milan ,fig4 #cc #fe ,,italian4--,,venetian1 ,,needle-,,made ,,plate ,,xvi #ff ,,italian4--,,milanese1 ,,bobbin-,,made ,,xvii #ff ,unfinished ,drawn-work ,fig4 #cd #fi ,,cushion ,,made ,,at ,,the ,,school ,,plate ,,xviii #gj ,,italy4--,,group ,,of ,,workers ,,at ,,brazza ,,school ,,xix #gj ,genoa ,point1 ,bobbin-made ,fig4 #ce #gd ,lace ,pattern found in the ,church at ,santa ,margherita #cf #gf ,,italian4--,,bobbin ,,tape ,,with ,,needle-,,made ,r,,seau ,,plate ,,xx #gf ,,italian1 ,,genoese4--,,border ,,xxi #gf ,parchment ,pattern used to cover a ,book ,fig4 #cg #gg ,fringed ,macram #ch #hj ,,italian4--,,old ,,peasant ,,laces1 ,,bobbin-,,made ,,plates ,,xxii1 ,,xxiii #hj ,,italian4--,,modern ,,peasant ,,lace ,,plate ,,xxiv #hj ,silk ,gimp ,lace ,fig4 #ci #hd ,,sicilian4--,,old ,,drawn-,,work ,,plate ,,xxv #hd ,,south ,,italian ,,xxvi #hd ,reticella1 or ,greek ,lace ,fig4 #dj #he ,loubeaux de ,verdale #da #hh ,,italian1 ,,rapallo--,,modern ,,peasant ,,lace ,,plate ,,xxvii #hh ,,maltese4--,,modern ,,bobbin-,,made ,,xxviii #hh ,bobbin ,lace 7,ceylon7 ,fig4 #db #hi ,the ,work ,room 7#afth century engraving7 #dc #ia ,unfinished ,work of a ,spanish ,nun #dd #id ,,spanish4--,,modern ,,thread ,,bobbin ,,lace ,,plate ,,xxix #id ,,spanish1 ,,blonde4--,,white ,,silk ,,darning ,,on ,,machine ,,net ,,xxx #id ,unfinished ,work of a ,spanish ,nun ,fig4 #de #ie #df #if ,old ,spanish ,pillow ,lace #dg #ajj ,,portrait1 ,,duchesse ,,de ,,montpensier ,,plate ,,xxxi #ajj ,,jewish ,,xxxii #ajd ,,spanish ,,xxxiii #ajd ,bobbin ,lace 7,madeira7 ,fig4 #dh #ajf 7,brazil7 #di #ajg ,,spanish4--,,pillow-,,made #ai,,th ,,century ,,plate ,,xxxiv #ajh ,,paraguay4--,,nauduti ,,xxxv #ajh ,lace-making ,fig4 #ej #aaj ,,flemish4--,,portion ,,of ,,bed-,,cover ,,plate ,,xxxvi #aaj ,cap of ,emperor ,charles ,v4 ,fig4 #ea #aab ,isabella ,clara ,eugenia1 ,daughter of ,philip ,,ii4 #eb #aab ,mary1 ,queen of ,hungary1 ,cuff #ec #aac ,belgian ,lace ,school #ed #aad ,old ,flemish ,bobbin ,lace #ee #aad ,old ,flemish4--,trolle ,kant #ef #aae ,,brussels4--,,point ,d',,angleterre ,,brides ,,plate ,,xxxvii #aaf ,,flemish4--,,tape ,,lace1 ,,bobbin-,,made ,,xxxviii #aaf ,brussels ,needle-,point ,fig4 #eg #aah #eh #abj ,brussels4--,point l',aiguille #eh;,a #abj ,old ,brussels4--,point d',angleterre #ei #abb #fj #abd ,,mechlin1 #ag,,th ,,and #ah,,th ,,century ,,plate ,,xxxix #abf ,mechlin4--,period ,louis ,,xvi4 ,fig4 #fa #abg ,mechlin1 formerly belonging to ,h4,m4 ,queen ,charlotte #fb #abh ,,mechlin4--,,three ,,specimens ,,from ,,victoria ,,and ,,albert ,,museum ,,plate ,,xl #abh ,a ,lady of ,antwerp ,fig4 #fc #acj ,antwerp ,pot ,lace #fd #acj ,valenciennes ,lace of ,ypres #fe #acb ,,flemish4--,,flat ,,spanish ,,bobbin ,,lace ,,plate ,,xli #acb ,,flemish4--,,guipure ,,de ,,flandre ,,xlii #acd ,,belgian4--,,bobbin-,,made1 ,,binche ,,xliii #acf ,,marche ,,xliv #acf ,,drawn ,,and ,,embroidered ,,muslin1 ,,flemish ,,xlv #acf ,,ruff1 ,,edged ,,with ,,lace ,,xlvi #adb ,,brussels4--,,flounce1 ,,bobbin-,,made ,,xlvii #add ,cinq-,mars4--,m4 de ,versailles ,fig4 #ff #ade 4--,after his portrait by ,le ,wain #fg #adf ,lace ,rose and ,garter #fh #adg ,young ,lady's ,apron1 time of ,henry ,,iii #fi #adh ,,brussels4--,,bobbin-,,made1 ,,period ,,louis ,,xiv4 ,,plate ,,xlviii #aej 4--,,point ,d',,angleterre ,r,,seau ,,xlix #aej ,anne of ,austria ,fig4 #gj #aea ,a ,courtier of the ,regency #ga #aeb ,canons of ,louis ,,xiv #gb #aed ,chateau de ,louvai #gc #aef ,,chenille ,,run ,,on ,a ,,bobbin-,,ground ,,plate ,l #aef ,,brussels4--,,bobbin-,,made ,,li #aef ,le ,grand ,bb ,fig4 #gd #afb ,louvois1 #afia #ge #afc ,madame de ,maintenon #gf #afd ,lady in ,morning dshabille #gg #afe ,le ,grand ,dauphin en ,steinkerque #gh #afh ,madame du ,lude en ,steinkerque #gi #afh ,madame ,palatine #hj #afi ,,brussels4--,,modern ,,point ,,de ,,gaze ,,plate ,,lii #agj ,madame ,sophie de ,france1 #aghb ,fig4 #ha #age ,madame ,adlaide de ,france #hb #agf ,,madame ,,louise ,,de ,,france ,,plate ,,liii #agf ,madame ,thrse ,fig4 #hc #agg ,marie-,antoinette #hd #agi ,madame ,adlaide de ,france #he #ahb ,,french4--,,border ,,of ,,point ,,plat ,,de ,,france ,,plate ,,liv #ahh ,colbert1 #afhc ,fig4 #hf #ahi ,venice ,point #hg #aia ,,french4--,,point ,d',,alen,,on ,,plate ,,lv #aib ,argentella1 or ,point d',alenon ,rseau ,rosac ,fig4 #hh #aid ,bed made for ,napoleon ,i4 #hi #aig ,alenon ,point ,petites ,bredes #ij #bjj ,point d',alenon1 ,louis ,,xv4 #ia #bjj ,,point ,d',,alen,,on4 ,,flounce ,,plate ,,lvi #bjb-c ,point d',argentan ,fig4 #ib #bjd 4 ,grande ,bride ground #ic #bjf ,,french4--,,point ,d',,argentan1 #ah,,th ,,century ,,plate ,,lvii #bjh ,point de ,paris ,fig4 #id #baj ,point de ,france #ie #baj ,,french 7,,or ,,dutch74--,,victoria ,,and ,,albert ,,museum ,,plate ,,lviii #bab ,chantilly ,fig4 #if #bad ,cauchoise #ig #bag ,,french1 ,,chantilly4--,,flounce ,,plate ,,lix #bah ,,french1 ,,le ,,puy4--,,black ,,silk ,,guipure ,,lx #bah ,petit ,poussin1 ,dieppe ,fig4 #ih #bai ,ave ,maria1 ,dieppe #ii #bbj ,point de ,dieppe #ajj #bba ,dentelle la ,vierge #aja #bbb ,duc de ,peuthivre #ajb #bbc ,,french4--,,blonde ,,male1 ,,in ,,spanish ,,style ,,plate ,,lxi #bbf ,modern ,black ,lace of ,bayeux ,fig4 #ajc #bbg ,point ,colbert #ajd #bbh ,valenciennes1 #afej-aghj #aje #bcj ,period1 ,louis ,,xiv4 #ajf #bcb #ag,,th ,,and #ah,,th ,,century ,,plate ,,lxii #bcb ,fig4 #ajg #bcd ,valenciennes ,lappet #ajh #bcd ,lille #aji #bcf #aaj #bch ,arras #aaa #bdj ,,french1 ,,cambrai ,,plates ,,lxiii1 ,,lxiv #bdf ,,french1 ,,le ,,puy ,,plate ,,lxv #bdf ,point de ,bourgogne ,fig4 #aab #bef ,,william1 ,,prince ,,of ,,orange ,,plate ,,lxvi #beh ,dutch ,bobbin ,lace ,fig4 #aac #bfj ,tomb of ,barbara ,uttmann #aad #bfa ,barbara ,uttmann #aad;,a #bfb ,,swiss1 ,,neuchatel ,,plate ,,lxvii #bfd ,,german1 ,,nuremberg ,,lxviii #bfd ,,english1 ,,bucks ,,lxix #bfd ,,hungarian4--,,bobbin ,,lace ,,lxx #bfh ,,austro-,,hungarian ,,lxxi #bfh ,shirt ,collar of ,christian ,,iv4 ,fig4 #aae #bgc ,tnder ,lace1 ,drawn ,muslin #aaf #bgd ,,russian--,,needlepoint2 ,,german--,,saxon ,,plate ,,lxxii #bgf ,,russian1 ,,old ,,bobbin-,,made ,,lxxiii #bgf ,,russian1 ,,bobbin-,,made ,,in ,,thread ,,plate ,,lxxiv #bhj ,dalecarlian ,lace ,fig4 #aag #bha ,collar of ,gustavus ,adolphus #aah #bhb ,russia1 ,bobbin-made1 #aith ,century #aai #bhd ,,cap1 ,,flemish ,,or ,,german ,,plate ,,xxv #bhh ,fisher1 ,bishop of ,rochester ,fig4 #abj #bib ,,english4--,,cutwork ,,and ,,needle-,,point ,,plate ,,lxxvi #bib ,,english4--,,devonshire ,,trolly4 ,,lxxvii #bib ,fisher1 ,bishop of ,rochester ,fig4 #aba #bic ,,marie ,,de ,,lorraine ,,plate ,,lxxviii #bih ,queen ,elizabeth's ,smock ,fig4 #abb #cjh ,christening ,caps1 ,needle-made ,brussels ,figs4 #abc1 #abd #cji ,,mary ,,sidney1 ,,countess ,,of ,,pembroke ,,plate ,,lxxix #caf ,,henry ,,wrothesley1 ,,third ,,earl ,,of ,,southampton ,,lxxx #cbj ,monument of ,princess ,sophia ,fig4 #abe #cba ,mary #abf #cbb ,mary1 ,countess of ,pembroke #abg #cbc ,,elizabeth1 ,,princess ,,palatine ,,plate ,,lxxxi #cbf ,falling ,collar of the #agth ,century ,fig4 #abh #cbg ,boots1 ,cuffs ,figs4 #abi1 #acj #cbh ,english ,needle-made ,lace ,fig4 #aca #cbh ,,james ,,harrington ,,plate ,,lxxxii #ccb ,,james1 ,,the ,,old ,,pretender1 ,,and ,,his ,,sister1 ,,princess ,,louisa ,,plate ,,lxxxiii #cdd ,,john ,,law1 ,,the ,,paris ,,banker ,,lxxxiv #ceb ,ripon ,fig4 #acb #cgc ,,english1 ,,buckinghamshire1 ,,bobbin ,,lace ,,plate ,,lxxxv #cgd ,buckinghamshire ,trolly ,fig4 #acc #cha ,point #acd #chb #ace #chc ,,english1 ,,northamptonshire1 ,,bobbin ,,lace ,,plate ,,lxxxvi #chd ,old ,flemish ,fig4 #acf #che ,old ,brussels #acg #che ,run ,lace1 ,newport ,pagnell #ach #chf ,english ,point1 ,northampton #aci #chf ,baby ,lace1 ,northampton #adj #chg ,beds #ada #chg ,bucks #adb #chg ,wire ,ground1 ,northampton #adc #chh ,valenciennes #add #chh ,regency ,point1 ,bedford #ade #chi ,insertion1 #adf #chi ,plaited ,lace1 #adg #cib ,raised ,plait1 #adh #cic ,,english1 ,,suffolk1 ,,bobbin ,,lace ,,plate ,,lxxxvii #cid ,english ,needle-made ,lace ,fig4 #adi #cif ,,honiton ,,with ,,the ,,vrai ,r,,seau ,,plate ,,lxxxviii #djb ,bone ,lace from ,cap1 ,devonshire ,fig4 #aej #djd ,monument of ,bishop ,stafford1 ,exeter ,cathedral #aea #djf ,monument of ,lady ,doddridge #aeb #djg ,honiton1 sewn on plain pillow ground #aec #djh ,old ,devonshire #aed #djh ,honiton ,guipure #aee #daj ,honeysuckle1 ,sprig of ,modern ,honiton #aef #daa ,old ,devonshire ,point #aeg #dab ,lappet made by the late ,mrs4 ,treadwin of ,exeter #aeh #dab ,venetian ,relief in ,point #aei #dad ,,english4--,,devonshire4 ,,fan ,,made ,,at ,,beer ,,for ,,the ,,paris ,,exhibition1 #aijj ,,plate ,,lxxxix #daf ,sir ,alexander ,gibson ,fig4 #afj #dbd ,scotch1 ,hamilton #afa #dca ,,irish1 ,,youghal ,,plate ,,xc #dcf ,,irish1 ,,carrickmacross ,,xci #ddb ,,irish1 ,,limerick ,,lace ,,xcii #ddb ,,irish1 ,,crochet ,,lace ,,xciii #ddf ,arms of the ,framework ,knitters' ,company ,fig4 #afb #ddg ,the ,lagetta1 or ,lace-bark ,tree #afc #def ,metre ,p4 ,quinty ,figs4 #afd1 #afe #dfj ,pattern ,book1 ,augsburg #aff1 #afg #dfb ,augsburg ,fig4 #afh #dfc ,le ,pompe1 #aeei #afi #dgc ,manner of ,pricking ,pattern #agj #dhf ,frankfort-on-the-,main1 #afje #aga #dib ,monogram #agb #dib ,bavari1 from ,ornamento nobile of ,lucretia ,romana #agc #dih #a;,,history ,,of ,,lace4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,needlework4 ,as ladies wont ,to finger the fine needle and nyse thread4--,faerie ,queene4 ,the art of lace-making has from the earliest times been so interwoven with the art of needlework that it would be impossible to enter on the subject of the present work without giving some mention of the latter4 ,with the ,egyptians the art of embroidery was general1 and at ,beni ,hassan figures are represented making a sort of net--they that work in flax1 and they that weave network4#a ,examples of elaborate netting have been found in ,egyptian tombs1 and mummy wrappings are ornamented with drawn-work1 cut-work1 and other open ornamentation4 ,the outer tunics of the robes of state of important personages appear to be fashioned of network darned round the hem with gold and silver and coloured silks4 ,amasis1 ,king of ,egypt1 according to ,herodotus1#b sent to ,athene of ,lindus a corslet with figures interwoven with gold and cotton1 and to judge from a passage of ,ezekiel1 the ,egyptians even embroidered the sails of their galleys which they exported to ,tyre4#c #b,the ,jewish embroiderers1 even in early times1 seem to have carried their art to a high standard of execution4 ,the curtains of the ,tabernacle were of fine twined linen wrought with needlework1 and blue1 and purple1 and scarlet1 with cherubims of cunning work4#d ,again1 the robe of the ephod was of gold and blue and purple and scarlet1 and fine twined linen1 and in ,isaiah we have mention of women's cauls and nets of checker-work4 ,aholiab is specially recorded as a cunning workman1 and chief embroiderer in blue1 and in purple1 and in scarlet1 and in fine linen1#e and the description of the virtuous woman in the ,proverbs1 who layeth her hands to the spindle and clotheth herself in tapestry1 and that of the king's daughter in the ,psalms1 who shall be brought unto the king in a raiment of needlework1 all plainly show how much the art was appreciated amongst the ,jews4#f ,finally ,josephus1 in his ,wars of the ,jews1 mentions the veil presented to the ,temple by ,herod 7,b4,c4 #ai71 a ,babylonian curtain fifty cubits high1 and sixteen broad1 embroidered in blue and red1 of marvellous texture1 representing the universe1 the stars1 and the elements4 ,in the ,english ,bible1 lace is frequently mentioned1 but its meaning must be qualified by the reserve due to the use of such a word in ,james ,i4's time4 ,it is pretty evident that the translators used it to indicate a small cord1 since lace for decoration would be more commonly known at that time as purls1 points1 or cut-works4#g ,of lace amongst the ,greeks we seem to have no evidence4 ,upon the well-known red and black vases are all kinds of figures clad in costumes which are bordered with ornamental patterns1 but these were painted upon1 woven into1 or embroidered upon the fabric4 ,they were not lace4 ,many centuries elapsed before a marked and elaborately ornamental character infused itself into twisted1 plaited1 or looped thread-work4 ,during such a period the fashion of ornamenting borders of costumes and hangings existed1 and underwent a few phases1 as1 for instance1 in the ,elgin marbles1 where crimped #c;edges appear along the flowing ,grecian dresses4 ,embroidered garments1 cloaks1 veils and cauls1 and networks of gold are frequently mentioned in ,homer and other early authors4#h ,the countries of the ,euphrates were renowned in classical times for the beauty of their embroidered and painted stuffs which they manufactured4#i ,nothing has come down to us of these ,babylonian times1 of which ,greek and ,latin writers extolled the magnificence2 but we may form some idea1 from the statues and figures engraved on cylinders1 of what the weavers and embroiderers of this ancient time were capable4#aj ,a fine stone in the ,british ,museum is engraved with the figure of a ,babylonian king1 ,merodach-,idin-,abkey1 in embroidered robes1 which speak of the art as practised eleven hundred years ,b4,c4#aa ,josephus writes that the veils given by ,herod for the ,temple were of ,babylonian work 7,greek3 peplos babylnios7--the women excelling1 according to ,apollonius1 in executing designs of varied colours4 ,the ,sidonian women brought by ,paris to ,troy embroidered veils of such rich work that ,hecuba deemed them worthy of being offered to ,athene2 and ,lucan speaks of the ,sidonian veil worn by ,cleopatra at a feast in her ,alexandrine palace1 in honour of ,csar4#ab ,phrygia was also renowned for its needlework1 and from the shores of ,phrygia ,asiatic and ,babylonian embroideries were shipped to ,greece and ,italy4 ,the toga picta1 worked with ,phrygian embroidery1 was worn by ,roman generals at their triumphs and by the consuls when they celebrated the games2 hence embroidery itself is styled ,phrygian1#ac #d;and the ,romans knew it under no other name 7opus ,phrygianum74#ad ,gold needles and other working implements have been discovered in ,scandinavian tumuli4 ,in the ,london ,chronicle of #agfg will be found a curious account of the opening of a ,scandinavian barrow near ,wareham1 in ,dorsetshire4 ,within the hollow trunk of an oak were discovered many bones wrapped in a covering of deerskins neatly sewn together4 ,there were also the remains of a piece of gold lace1 four inches long and two and a half broad4 ,this lace was black and much decayed1 of the old lozenge pattern1#ae that most ancient and universal of all designs1 again found depicted on the coats of ancient ,danes1 where the borders are edged with an open or net-work of the same pattern4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,,gold ,,lace ,,found ,,in ,a ,,barrow4 ,passing to the first ages of the ,christian era1 we find the pontifical ornaments1 the altar and liturgical cloths1 and the draperies then in common use for hanging between the colonnades and porches of churches all worked with holy images and histories from the ,holy ,writ4 ,rich men chose sacred subjects to be embroidered on their dress1 and one senator wore #fjj figures worked upon his robes of state4 ,asterius1 ,bishop of ,amasus1 thunders against those ,christians who wore the ,gospels upon their backs instead of in their hearts4#af ,in the ,middle ,ages spinning and needlework were the occupation of women of all degrees4 ,as early as the sixth #e;century the nuns in the diocese of ,st4 ,csaire1 ,bishop of ,arles1 were forbidden to embroider robes enriched with paintings1 flowers1 and precious stones4 ,this prohibition1 however1 was not general4 ,near ,ely1 an ,anglo-,saxon lady brought together a number of maidens to work for the monastery1 and in the seventh century an ,abbess of ,bourges1 ,st4 ,eustadiole1 made vestments and enriched the altar with the work of her nuns4 ,at the beginning of the ninth century ,st4 ,viborade1 of ,st4 ,gall1 worked coverings for the sacred books of the monastery1 for it was the custom then to wrap in silk and carry in a linen cloth the ,gospels used for the offices of the ,church4#ag ,judith of ,bavaria1 mother of ,charles the ,bold1 stood sponsor for the ,queen of ,harold1 ,king of ,denmark1 who came to ,ingelheim to be baptised with all his family1 and gave her a robe she had worked with her own hands and studded with precious stones4 ,berthe aux grands pieds1 the mother of ,charlemagne1 was celebrated for her skill in needlework1#ah ouvrer si com je vous dirai ,n'avoit meillor ouvriere de ,tours jusqu' ,cambrai2 while ,charlemagne#ai-- ,ses filles fist bien doctriner1 ,et aprendre keudre et filer4 ,queen ,adelhas1 wife of ,hugh ,capet 7#ihg-iif71 presented to the ,church of ,st4 ,martin at ,tours a cope1 on the back of which she had embroidered the ,deity1 surrounded by seraphim and cherubim1 the front being worked with an ,adoration of the ,lamb of ,god4#bj ,long before the ,conquest1 ,anglo-,saxon women were skilled with the needle1 and gorgeous are the accounts of the gold-starred and scarlet-embroidered tunics and violet sacks worked by the nuns4 ,st4 ,dunstan himself designed the ornaments of a stole worked by the hands of a noble ,anglo-,saxon lady1 ,ethelwynne1 and sat daily in her bower with her maidens1 directing the work4 ,the four daughters of #f;,edward the ,elder are all praised for their needle's skill4 ,their father1 says ,william of ,malmesbury1 had caused them in childhood to give their whole attention to letters1 and afterwards employed them in the labours of the distaff and the needle4 ,in #hjj ,denbert1 ,bishop of ,durham1 granted the lease of a farm of #bjj acres for life to an embroideress named ,eanswitha for the charge of scouring1 repairing1 and renewing the vestments of the priests of his diocese4#ba ,the ,anglo-,saxon ,godric1 ,sheriff of ,buckingham1 granted to ,alcuid half a hide of land as long as he should be sheriff on condition she taught his daughter the art of embroidery4 ,in the tenth century lfleda1 a high-born ,saxon lady1 offered to the church at ,ely a curtain on which she had wrought the deeds of her husband1 ,brithnoth1 slain by the ,danes2 and ,edgitha1 ,queen of ,edward the ,confessor1 was perfect mistress of her needle4 ,the famous ,bayeux ,tapestry or embroidery1 said to have been worked by ,matilda1 wife of ,william the ,conqueror1 is of great historical interest4#bb ,it is1 according to the chroniclers1 ,une tente trs longue et estroite de telle a broderies de ymages et escriptaux faisant reprsentation du ,conquest de l',angleterre2 a needle-wrought epic of the ,norman ,conquest1 worked on a narrow band of stout linen over #bjj feet long1 and containing #a1bee figures worked on worsted threads4#bc ,mr4 ,fowke gives the ,abb ,rue's doubts as to the accepted period of the ,bayeux tapestry1 which he assigns to the ,empress ,matilda4 ,mr4 ,collingwood ,bruce is of opinion that the work is coeval with the events it records1 as the primitive furniture1 buildings1 etc41 are all of the eleventh century4 ,that the tapestry is not found in any catalogue before #acfi is only a piece of presumptive evidence against the earlier date1 and must be weighed with the internal evidence in its favour4 ,after the ,battle of ,hastings ,william of ,normandy1 on #g;his first appearance in public1 clad himself in a richly-wrought cloak of ,anglo-,saxon embroidery1 and his secretary1 ,william of ,poictiers1 states that the ,english women are eminently skilful with the needle and in weaving4 ,the excellence of the ,english work was maintained as time went on1 and a proof of this is found in an anecdote preserved by ,matthew of ,paris4#bd ,about this time 7#abdf7 the ,lord ,pope 7,innocent ,,iv47 having observed the ecclesiastical ornaments of some ,englishmen1 such as choristers' copes and mitres1 were embroidered in gold thread after a very desirable fashion1 asked where these works were made1 and received in answer1 in ,england4 ',then1' said the ,pope1 ',england is surely a garden of delights for us4 ,it is truly a never-failing spring1 and there1 where many things abound1 much may be extracted4' ,accordingly1 the same ,lord ,pope sent sacred and sealed briefs to nearly all the abbots of the ,cistercian order established in ,england1 requesting them to have forthwith forwarded to him those embroideries in gold which he preferred to all others1 and with which he wished to adorn his chasuble and choral cope1 as if these objects cost them nothing1 an order which1 adds the chronicler1 was sufficiently pleasing to the merchants1 but the cause of many persons detesting him for his covetousness4 ,perhaps the finest examples of the opus anglicanum extant are the cope and maniple of ,st4 ,cuthbert1 taken from his coffin in the ,cathedral of ,durham1 and now preserved in the ,chapter library4 ,one side of the maniple is of gold lace stitched on1 worked apparently on a parchment pattern4 ,the ,syon ,monastery cope1 in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum1 is an invaluable example of ,english needlework of the thirteenth century4 ,the greater portion of its design is worked in a chain-stitch 7modern tambour or crochet71 especially in the faces of the figures1 where the stitch begins in the centre1 say1 of a cheek1 and is then worked in a spiral1 thus forming a series of circular lines4 ,the texture so obtained is then1 by means of a hot1 small and round-knobbed iron1 pressed into indentations at the centre of each spiral1 and an effect of relief imparted to it4 ,the general #hpractice was to work the draperies in feather-stitch 7opus plumarium74#be ,in the tenth century the art of pictorial embroidery had become universally spread4 ,the inventory of the ,holy ,see 7in #abic7 mentions the embroideries of ,florence1 ,milan1 ,lucca1 ,france1 ,england1 ,germany1 and ,spain1 and throughout the ,middle ,ages embroidery was treated as a fine art1 a serious branch of painting4#bf ,in ,france the fashion continued1 as in ,england1 of producing groups1 figures and portraits1 but a new development was given to floral and elaborate arabesque ornament4#bg ,it was the custom in feudal times#bh for knightly families to send their daughters to the castles of their suzerain lords1 there to be trained to spin1 weave and embroider under the eye of the lady chtelaine1 a custom which1 in the more primitive countries1 continued even to the ,french ,revolution4 ,in the ,french romances these young ladies are termed chambrires1 in our ,english1 simply the maidens4 ,great ladies prided themselves upon the number of their attendants1 and passed their mornings at work1 their labours beguiled by singing the chansons toile1 as the ballads written for those occasions were termed4#bi #i;,in the wardrobe accounts of our kings appear constant entries of working materials purchased for the royal ladies4#cj ,there is preserved in the cathedral at ,prague an altar-cloth of embroidery and cut-work worked by ,anne of ,bohemia1 ,queen of ,richard ,,ii4 ,during the ,wars of the ,roses1 when a duke of the blood royal is related to have begged alms in the streets of the rich ,flemish towns1 ladies of rank1 more fortunate in their education1 gained1 like the ,french emigrants of more modern days1 their subsistence by the products of their needle4#ca ,without wishing to detract from the industry of medival ladies1 it must be owned that the swampy state of the country1 the absence of all roads1 save those to be traversed in the fine season by pack-horses1 and the deficiency of all suitable outdoor amusement but that of hawking1 caused them to while away their time within doors the best way they could4 ,not twenty years since1 in the more remote provinces of ,france1 a lady who quitted her house daily would be remarked on4 ,elle sort beaucoup1 folks would say1 as though she were guilty of dissipation4 ,so queens and great ladies sewed on4 ,we hear much of works of adornment1 more still of piety1 when ,katharine of ,aragon appears on the scene4 ,she had learned much in her youth from her mother1 ,queen ,isabella1 and had probably #aj;assisted at those trials of needlework#cb established by that virtuous queen among the ,spanish ladies3-- ,her days did pass ,in working with the needle curiously4#cc ,it is recorded how1 when ,wolsey1 with the papal legate ,campeggio1 going to ,bridewell1 begged an audience of ,queen ,katharine1 on the subject of her divorce1 they found her at work1 like ,penelope of old1 with her maids1 and she came to them with a skein of red silk about her neck4#cd ,queen ,mary ,tudor is supposed1 by her admirers1 to have followed the example of her illustrious mother1 though all we find among the entries is a charge to working materials for ,jane the ,fole1 one shilling4 ,no one would suspect ,queen ,elizabeth of solacing herself with the needle4 ,every woman1 however1 had to make one shirt in her lifetime1 and the ,lady ,elizabeth's grace1 on the second anniversary of ,prince ,edward's birth1 when only six years of age1 presented her brother with a cambric smock wrought by her own hands4 ,the works of ,scotland's ,mary1 who early studied all female accomplishments under her governess1 ,lady ,fleming1 #aa;are too well known to require notice4 ,in her letters are constant demands for silk and other working materials wherewith to solace her long captivity4 ,she had also studied under ,catherine de ,mdicis1 herself an unrivalled needlewoman1 who had brought over in her train from ,florence the designer for embroidery1 ,frederick ,vinciolo4 ,assembling her daughters1 ,claude1 ,elizabeth and ,margaret1 with ,mary ,stuart1 and her ,guise cousins1 elle passoit1 says ,brantme1 fort son temps les apres-disnes besogner apres ses ouvrages de soye1 o elle estoit tant parfaicte qu'il estoit possible4#ce ,the ability of ,reine ,margot#cf is sung by ,ronsard1 who exalts her as imitating ,pallas in the art4#cg ,many of the great houses in ,england are storehouses of old needlework4 ,hatfield1 ,penshurst1 and ,knole are all filled with the handiwork of their ladies4 ,the ,countess of ,shrewsbury1 better known as ,building ,bess1 ,bess of ,hardwick1 found time to embroider furniture for her palaces1 and her samplar patterns hang to this day on their walls4 ,needlework was the daily employment of the convent4 ,as early as the fourteenth century#ch it was termed nun's work2 and even now1 in secluded parts of the kingdom1 ancient lace is styled by that name4#ci ,nor does the occupation appear to have been solely #ab;confined to women4 ,we find monks commended for their skill in embroidery1#dj and in the frontispieces of some of the early pattern books of the sixteenth century1 men are represented working at frames1 and these books are stated to have been written for the profit of men as well as of women4#da ,many were composed by monks1#db and in the library#dc of ,st4 ,genevive at ,paris1 are several works of this class1 inherited from the monastery of that name4 ,as these books contain little or no letterpress1 they could scarcely have been collected by the monks unless with a view to using them4 ,at the dissolution of the monasteries1 the ladies of the great ,roman ,catholic families came to the rescue4 ,of the widow of the ill-fated ,earl of ,arundel it is recorded3 ,her gentlewomen and chambermaids she ever busied in works ordained for the service of the ,church4 ,she permitted none to be idle at any time4#dd ,instructions in the art of embroidery were now at a premium4 ,the old nuns had died out1 and there were none to replace them4 ,mrs4 ,hutchinson1 in her ,memoirs1 enumerates1 among the eight tutors she had at seven years of age1 one for needlework1 while ,hannah ,senior1 about the same period1 entered the service of the ,earl of ,thomond1 to teach his daughters the use of their needle1 with the salary of #bjj a year4 ,the money1 however1 was never paid2 so she petitions the ,privy ,council for leave to sue him4#de ,when1 in #afad1 the ,king of ,siam applied to ,king ,james for an ,english wife1 a gentleman of honourable parentage offers his daughter1 whom he describes of excellent parts for music1 her needle1 and good discourse4#df ,and these are the sole accomplishments he mentions4 ,the bishops1 however1 shocked at the proceeding1 interfered1 and put an end to the projected alliance4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,i4 ,,argentan4--,showing buttonhole stitched rseau and brides boucles4 ,,circular ,,bobbin ,r,,seau4--,variety of ,mechlin4 ,,venetian ,,needle-,,point4 ,portions of lace very much enlarged to show details of stitches4 ,illustration3 ,,venetian ,,needle-,,point4 #ac,no ecclesiastical objection1 however1 was made to the epitaph of ,catherine ,sloper--she sleeps in the cloisters of ,westminster ,abbey1 #afbj3-- ,exquisite at her needle4 ,till a very late date1 we have ample record of the esteem in which this art was held4 ,in the days of the ,commonwealth1 ,mrs4 ,walker is described to have been as well skilled in needlework as if she had been brought up in a convent4 ,she kept1 however1 a gentlewoman for teaching her daughters4 ,evelyn1 again1 praises the talent of his daughter1 ,mrs4 ,draper4 ,she had1 writes he1 an extraordinary genius for whatever hands could do with a needle4 ,the queen of ,charles ,i4 and the wives of the younger ,stuarts seem to have changed the simple habits of their royal predecessors1 for when ,queen ,mary1 in her ,dutch simplicity1 sat for hours at the knotted fringe1 her favourite employment1 ,bishop ,burnet1 her biographer1 adds1 ,it was a strange thing to see a queen work for so many hours a day1 and her homely habits formed a never-ending subject of ridicule for the wit of ,sir ,charles ,sedley4#dg ,from the middle of the last century1 or rather apparently from the ,french ,revolution1 the more artistic style of needlework and embroidery fell into decadence4 ,the simplicity of male costume rendered it a less necessary adjunct to female or1 indeed1 male education4 ,however1 two of the greatest generals of the ,republic1 ,hoche and ,moreau1 followed the employment of embroidering satin waistcoats long after they had entered the military service4 ,we may look upon the art now as almost at an end4 #ad;,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,cut-,,work4 ,these workes belong chiefly to gentlewomen to passe away their time in vertuous exercises4 ,et lors1 sous vos lacis mille fenestrages ,raiseuls et poinct coupps et tous vos clairs ouvrages4 --,jean ,godard1 #aehh4 ,it is from that open-work embroidery which in the sixteenth century came into such universal use that we must derive the origin of lace1 and1 in order to work out the subject1 trace it through all its gradations4 ,this embroidery1 though comprising a wide variety of decoration1 went by the general name of cut-work4 ,the fashion of adorning linen has prevailed from the earliest times4 ,either the edges were worked with close embroidery--the threads drawn and fashioned with a needle in various forms--or the ends of the cloth unravelled and plaited with geometric precision4 ,to judge from the description of the linen grave-clothes of ,st4 ,cuthbert1#dh as given by an eye-witness to his disinterment in the twelfth century1 they were ornamented in a manner similar to that we have described4 ,there had been1 says the chronicler1 put over him a sheet 444 this sheet had a fringe of linen thread of a finger's length2 upon its sides and ends were woven a border of projecting workmanship fabricated of the thread itself1 bearing the figures of birds and beasts so arranged that between every two pairs there were interwoven among them the representation of a branching tree which divides the figures4 ,this tree1 so tastefully depicted1 appears to be putting forth its leaves1 etc4 ,there can be no doubt that this sheet1 for many centuries preserved in the cathedral church of ,durham1 was a specimen of cut-work1 which1 though later it came into general use1 was1 at an early period of our history1 alone used for ecclesiastical purposes1 and an art which was1 till the dissolution of monasteries1 looked upon as a church secret4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,,italian ,,bobbin ,r,,seau4 ,,six-,,pointed ,,star-,,meshed ,,bobbin ,r,,seau4--,variety of ,valenciennes4 ,,brussels ,,bobbin ,r,,seau4 ,,fond ,,chant ,,of ,,chantilly ,,and ,,point ,,de ,,paris4 ,valenciennes4 ,lille4 ,toil4 ,,details ,,of ,,bobbin ,r,,seau ,,and ,,toil4 ,alenon rseau4 ,,details ,,of ,,needle ,r,,seau ,,and ,,buttonhole ,,stitches4 ,portions of lace very much enlarged to show details of stitches4 ,to face page #ad4 #ae,though cut-work is mentioned in ,hardyng's ,chronicle1#di when describing the luxury in ,king ,richard ,,ii4's reign1 he says3-- ,cut werke was greate both in court and townes1 ,both in menes hoddis and also in their gownes1 yet this oft-quoted passage1 no more than that of ,chaucer1 in which he again accuses the priests of wearing gowns of scarlet and green colours ornamented with cut-work1 can scarcely be received as evidence of this mode of decoration being in general use4 ,the royal wardrobe accounts of that day contain no entries on the subject4 ,it applies rather to the fashion of cutting out#ej pieces of velvet or other materials1 and sewing them down to the garment with a braid like ladies' work of the present time4 ,such garments were in general use1 as the inventories of medival times fully attest4 ,the linen shirt or smock was the special object of adornment1 and on the decoration of the collar and sleeves much time and ingenuity were expended4 ,in the ancient ballad of ,lord ,thomas1#ea the fair ,annette cries3-- ,my maids1 gae to my dressing-room1 ,and dress me in my smock2 ,the one half is o' the ,holland fine1 ,the other o' needlework4 ,chaucer1 too1 does not disdain to describe the embroidery of a lady's smock-- ,white was her smocke1 embrouded all before ,and eke behynde1 on her colar aboute1 ,of cole blacke sylke1 within and eke without4 ,the sums expended on the decoration of this most necessary article of dress sadly excited the wrath of #af,stubbes1 who thus vents his indignation3 ,these shirtes 7sometymes it happeneth7 are wrought throughout with needlework of silke1 and such like1 and curiously stitched with open seame1 and many other knackes besides1 more than ,i can describe2 in so much1 ,i have heard of shirtes that have cost some ten shillynges1 some twenty1 some forty1 some five pounds1 some twenty nobles1 and 7which is horrible to heare7 some ten pound a pece4#eb ,up to the time of ,henry ,,viii4 the shirt was pynched or plaited-- ,come nere with your shirtes bordered and displayed1 ,in foarme of surplois4#ec ,these1#ed with handkerchiefs1#ee sheets1 and pillow-beres1#ef 7pillow-cases71 were embroidered with silks of various #ag;colours1 until the fashion gradually gave place to cut-work1 which1 in its turn1 was superseded by lace4 ,the description of the widow of ,john ,whitcomb1 a wealthy clothier of ,newbury1 in ,henry ,,viii4's reign1 when she laid aside her weeds1 is the first notice we have of cutwork being in general use4 ,she came1 says the writer1 out of the kitchen in a fair train gown stuck full of silver pins1 having a white cap upon her head1 with cuts of curious needlework1 the same an apron1 white as the driven snow4 ,we are now arrived at the ,renaissance1 a period when so close a union existed between the fine arts and manufactures2 when the most trifling object of luxury1 instead of being consigned to the vulgar taste of the mechanic1 received from artists their most graceful inspirations4 ,embroidery profited by the general impulse1 and books of designs were composed for that species which1 under the general name of cut-work1 formed the great employment for the women of the day4 ,the volume most generally circulated1 especially among the ladies of the ,french court1 for whose use it was designed1 is that of the ,venetian ,vinciolo1 to whom some say1 we know not on what authority1 ,catherine de ,mdicis granted1 in #aehe1 the exclusive privilege of making and selling the collerettes gaudronnes#eg she had herself introduced4 ,this work1 which passed through many editions1 dating from #aehg to #afbc1 is entitled1 ,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de ,lingerie4 ,servans de patrons faire toutes sortes de poincts1 coupp1 ,lacis autres4 ,dedi la ,royne4 ,nouvellement inventez1 au proffit et contentement des nobles ,dames et ,demoiselles autres gentils esprits1 amateurs d'un tel art4 ,par le ,seigneur ,federic de ,vinciolo ,venitien4 ,a ,paris4 ,par ,jean le ,clerc le jeune1 etc41 #aehg4 ,two little figures1 representing ladies in the costume of the period1 with working-frames in their hands1 decorate the title-page4#eh ,the work is in two books3 the first of ,point ,coup1 or #ahrich geometric patterns1 printed in white upon a black ground 7,fig4 #b72 the second of ,lacis1 or subjects in squares 7,fig4 #c71 with counted stitches1 like the patterns for worsted-work of the present day--the designs1 the seven planets1 ,neptune1 and various squares1 borders1 etc4 ,vinciolo dedicates his book to ,louise de ,vaudemont1 the neglected ,queen of ,henry ,,iii41 whose portrait1 with that of the king1 is added to the later editions4 ,various other pattern-books had already been published4 ,the earliest bearing a date is one printed at ,cologne in #aebg4ei ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,,point ,,coup4--7,vinciolo47 ,these books are scarce2 being designed for patterns1 and traced with a metal style1 or pricked through1 many perished in the using4 ,they are much sought after by the collector as among the early specimens of wood-block printing4 ,we give therefore in the ,appendix a list of those we find recorded1 or of which we have seen copies1 observing that the greater number1 though generally composed for one particular art1 may be applied indifferently to any kind of ornamental work4 ,,plate ,,iii4 ,illustration3 ,altar or ,table ,cloth of fine linen embroidered with gold thread1 laid1 and in satin stitches on both sides4 ,the ,cut out spaces are filled with white thread needle-point lace4 ,the edging is alternated of white and gold thread needle-point lace4 ,probably ,italian4 ,late sixteenth century4--,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #ah #ai;,cut-work was made in several manners4 ,the first consisted in arranging a network of threads upon a small frame1 crossing and interlacing them into various complicated patterns4 ,beneath this network was gummed a piece of fine cloth1 called quintain1#fj from the town in ,brittany where it was made4 ,then1 with a needle1 the network was sewn to the quintain by edging round those parts of the pattern that were to remain thick4 ,the last operation was to cut away the superfluous cloth2 hence the name of cut-work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,,lacis4--7,vinciolo4 ,edition #aehh47 ,ce ,pelican contient en longueur #gj mailles et en hauteur #fe4 #bj,the author of the ,consolations aux ,dames1 #afbj1 in addressing the ladies1 thus specially alludes to the custom of working on quintain3-- ,vous n'employiez les soirs et les matins ,a faonner vos grotesques quaintains1 ,o folle erreur--,o despence excessive4 ,again1 the pattern was made without any linen at all2 threads1 radiating at equal distances from one common centre1 served as a framework to others which were united to them in squares1 triangles1 rosettes1 and other geometric forms1 worked over with button-hole stitch 7point nou71 forming in some parts open-work1 in others a heavy compact embroidery4 ,in this class may be placed the old conventual cut-work of ,italy1 generally termed ,greek lace1 and that of extraordinary fineness and beauty which is assigned to ,venice4 ,distinct from all these geometric combinations was the lacis#fa of the sixteenth century1 done on a network ground 7rseau71 identical with the opus araneum or spider-work of continental writers1 the darned netting or modern filet brod reprises of the ,french embroiderers4 ,the ground consisted of a network of square meshes1 on which was worked the pattern1 sometimes cut out of linen and appliqu1#fb but more usually darned with stitches like tapestry4 ,this darning-work was easy of execution1 and the stitches being regulated by counting the meshes1#fc effective geometric patterns could be produced4 ,altar-cloths1 baptismal napkins1 as well as bed coverlets and table-cloths1 were decorated with these squares of net embroidery4 ,in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum there are several #ba;gracefully-designed borders to silk table-covers in this work1 made both of white and coloured threads1 and of silk of various shades4 ,the ground1 as we learn from a poem on lacis1 affixed to the pattern-book of ,milour ,mignerak1#fd was made by beginning a single stitch1 and increasing a stitch on each side until the required size was obtained4 ,if a strip or long border was to be made1 the netting was continued to its prescribed length1 and then finished off by reducing a stitch on each side till it was decreased to one1 as garden nets are made at the present day4 ,this plain netted ground was called rseau1 rzel1 rzeuil1#fe and was much used for bed-curtains1 vallances1 etc4 ,in the inventory of ,mary ,stuart1 made at ,fotheringay1#ff we find1 ,le lict d'ouvrage rezel2 and again1 under the care of ,jane ,kennethee1 the ,furniture of a bedd of network and ,holland intermixed1 not yet finished4 ,when the rseau was decorated with a pattern1 it was termed lacis1 or darned netting1 the ,italian punto ricamato a maglia quadra1 and1 combined with point-coup1 was much used for bed-furniture4 ,it appears to have been much employed for church-work1#fg for the sacred emblems4 ,the ,lamb and the ,pelican are frequently represented4#fh #bb;,in the inventory of ,sir ,john ,foskewe 7modern ,fortescue71 ,knight1 time of ,henry ,,viii41 we find in the hall1 ,a hanging of green saye1 bordered with darning4 ,queen ,mary ,stuart1 previous to the birth of ,james ,i4 7#aefj71 made a will1 which still exists1#fi with annotations in her own handwriting4 ,after disposing of her jewels and objects of value1 she concludes by bequeathing tous mes ouvrages masches et collets aux #d ,maries1 ,jean ,stuart1 et ,marie ,sunderland1 et toutes les filles2--masches1#gj with punti a maglia1 being among the numerous terms applied to this species of work4 ,these ouvrages masches were doubtless the work of ,queen ,mary and her ladies4 ,she had learned the art at the ,french court1 where her sister-in-law1 ,reine ,margot1 herself also a prisoner for many life-long years1 appears to have occupied herself in the same manner1 for we find in her accounts1#ga ,pour des moulles et esguilles pour faire rezeuil la somme de iiii4 ,l4 tourn4 ,and again1 ,pour avoir mont une fraize neufve de reseul la somme de ,x4 sols tourn4 ,catherine de ,mdicis had a bed draped with squares of reseuil or lacis1 and it is recorded that the girls and servants of her household consumed much time in making squares of reseuil4 ,the inventory of her property and goods includes a coffer containing three hundred and eighty-one of such squares unmounted1 whilst in another were found five hundred and thirty-eight squares1 some worked with rosettes or with blossoms1 and others with nosegays4#gb ,though the work of ,milour ,mignerak1 already quoted1 is dedicated to the ,trs-,chrestienne ,reine de ,france et de ,navarre1 ,marie de ,mdicis1 and bears her cipher and arms1 yet in the decorated frontispiece is a cushion with a piece of lacis in progress1 the pattern a daisy looking at the sun1 the favourite impresa of her predecessor1 the divorced ,marguerite1 now1 by royal ordinance1 ,marguerite ,reine1 ,duchesse de ,valois4 7,fig4 #d47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,,elizabethan ,,sampler4 ,to face page #bb4 #bc,these pattern-books being high in price and difficult to procure1 teachers of the art soon caused the various patterns to be reproduced in samcloths1#gc as samplars were then termed1 and young ladies worked at them diligently as a proof of their competency in the arts of cut-work1 lacis and rseuil1 much as a dame-school child did her ,a ,b ,c in the country villages some years ago4 ,proud mothers caused these chefs-d'oeuvre of their children to be framed and glazed2 hence many have come down to us hoarded up in old families uninjured at the present time4 7,fig4 #e47 ,a most important specimen of lacis was exhibited at the ,art ,international ,exhibition of #ahgd1 by ,mrs4 ,hailstone1 of ,walton ,hall1 an altar frontal #ad feet by #d feet1 executed in point cont1 representing eight scenes from the ,passion of ,christ1 in all fifty-six figures1 surrounded by ,latin inscriptions4 ,it is assumed to be of ,english workmanship4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,,impresa ,,of ,,queen ,,margaret ,,of ,,navarre ,,in ,,lacis4--7,mignerak47 ,some curious pieces of ancient lacis were also exhibited 7circ4 #ahff7 at the ,museum of ,south ,kensington by ,dr4 ,bock1 of ,bonn4 ,among others1 two specimens of coloured silk network1 the one ornamented with small embroidered shields and crosses 7,fig4 #f71 the other with the medival gammadion pattern 7,fig4 #g74 ,in the same collection was a towel or altar-cloth of ancient ,german work--a coarse net ground1 worked over with the lozenge pattern4#gd #bd;,but most artistic of all was a large ecclesiastical piece1 some three yards in length4 ,the design portrays the ,apostles1 with angels and saints4 ,these two last-mentioned objects are of the sixteenth century4 ,when used for altar-cloths1 bed-curtains1 or coverlets1 to produce a greater effect it was the custom to alternate the lacis with squares of plain linen4 ,an apron set with many a dice ,of needlework sae rare1 ,wove by nae hand1 as ye may guess1 ,save that of ,fairly fair4 ,ballad of ,hardyknute4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,,spiderwork1 ,,thirteenth ,,century4--7,bock ,coll4 ,south ,kensington ,museum74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,,spiderwork1 ,,fourteenth ,,century4--7,bock ,coll4 ,south ,kensington ,museum47 ,this work formed the great delight of provincial ladies in ,france4 ,jean ,godard1 in his poem on the ,glove1#ge alluding to this occupation1 says3-- ,une femme gante oeuvre en tapisserie ,en raizeaux deliez et toute lingerie ,elle file--elle coud et fait passement ,de toutes les fassons4444 ,the armorial shield of the family1 coronets1 monograms1 the beasts of the ,apocalypse1 with fleurs-de-lys1 sacrs coeurs1 for the most part adorned those pieces destined for the use of the ,church4 ,if1 on the other hand1 intended for a pall1 death's-heads1 cross-bones and tears1 with the sacramental cup1 left no doubt of the destination of the article4 ,,plate ,,iv4 ,illustration3 ,,fan ,,made ,,at ,,burano ,,and ,,presented ,,to ,,queen ,,elena ,,of ,,italy ,,on ,,her ,,marriage1 #ahif4 ,photo by the ,burano ,school4 ,,plate ,v4 ,illustration3 ,,italian4 ,,punto ,,reale4--,modern reproduction by the ,society milia ,ars1 ,bologna4 ,photo by the ,society4 ,to face page #bd4 #be;,as late as #ahej1 a splendid cut-work pall still covered the coffins of the fishers when borne in procession through the streets of ,dieppe4 ,it is said to have been a votive offering worked by the hands of some lady saved from shipwreck1 and presented as a memorial of her gratitude4 ,in #ahff1 when present at a peasant's wedding in the church of ,st4 ,lo 7,dp4 ,manche71 the author observed that the toile d'honneur1 which is always held extended over the heads of the married pair while the priest pronounces the blessing1 was of the finest cut-work1 trimmed with lace4 ,both in the north and south of ,europe the art still lingers on4 ,swedish housewives pierce and stitch the holiday collars of their husbands and sons1 and careful ladies1 drawing the threads of the fine linen sheets destined for the guest-chamber1 produce an ornament of geometric design4 ,scarce fifty years since1 an expiring relic of this art might be sometimes seen on the white smock-frock of the ,english labourer1 which1 independent of elaborate stitching1 was enriched with an insertion of cut-work1 running from the collar to the shoulder crossways1 like that we see decorating the surplices of the sixteenth century4 ,drawn-thread embroidery is another cognate work4 ,the material in old drawn-work is usually loosely-woven linen4 ,certain threads were drawn out from the linen ground1 and others left1 upon and between which needlework was made4 ,its employment in the ,east dates from very early times1 and withdrawing threads from a fabric is perhaps referred to in ,lucan's ,pharsalia3--#gf ,candida ,sidonio perlucent pectora filo1 ,quod ,nilotis acus compressum pectine ,serum ,solvit1 et extenso laxavit stamina velo4 ,her white breasts shine through the ,sidonian fabric1 which pressed down with the comb 7or sley7 of the ,seres1 the needle of the ,nile workman has separated1 and has loosened the warp by stretching out 7or withdrawing7 the weft4 #bf;,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,lace4 ,je demandai de la dentelle3 ,voici le tulle de ,bruxelles1 ,la blonde1 le point d',alenon1 ,et la ,maline1 si lgre2 ,l'application d',angleterre 7,qui se fait ,paris1 dit-on72 ,voici la guipure indigne1 ,et voici la ,valenciennes1 ,le point d'esprit1 et le point de ,paris2 ,bref les dentelles ,les plus nouvelles ,que produisent tous les pays4 ,le ,palais des ,dentelles 7,rothomago74 ,lace#gg is defined as a plain or ornamental network1 wrought of fine threads of gold1 silver1 silk1 flax1 or cotton1 interwoven1 to which may be added poil de chvre1 and also the fibre of the aloe1 employed by the peasants of ,italy and ,spain4 ,the term lacez rendered in the ,english translation of the ,statutes#gh as laces1 implying braids1 such as were used for uniting the different parts of the dress1 appears long before lace1 properly so called1 came into use4 ,the earlier laces1 such as they were1 were defined by the word passament#gi--;a general term for gimps and braids1 as well as for lace4 ,modern industry has separated these two classes of work1 but their being formerly so confounded renders it difficult in historic researches to separate one from the other4 ,the same confusion occurs in ,france1 where the first lace was called passement1 because it was applied to the same #bguse1 to braid or lay flat over the coats and other garments4 ,the lace trade was entirely in the hands of the passementiers of ,paris1 who were allowed to make all sorts of passements de dentelle sur l'oreiller aux fuseaux1 aux pingles1 et la main1 d'or1 d'argent1 tant fin que faux1 de soye1 de fil blanc1 et de couleur1 etc4 ,they therefore applied the same terms to their different products1 whatever the material4 ,the word passement continued to be in use till the middle of the seventeenth century1 it being specified as passements aux fuseaux1 passements l'aiguille2 only it was more specifically applied to lace without an edge4 ,the term dentelle is also of modern date1 nor will it be found in the earlier ,french dictionaries4#hj ,it was not till fashion caused the passament to be made with a toothed edge that the expression of passement dentel first appears4 ,in the accounts of ,henry ,,ii4 of ,france1 and his queen1 we have frequent notices of passement jaulne dantell des deux costez1#ha passement de soye incarnat dentell d'un cost1#hb etc41 etc41 but no mention of the word dentelle4 ,it does1 however1 occur in an inventory of an earlier date1 that of ,marguerite de ,france1 sister of ,francis ,i41 who1 in #aede1 paid the sum of ,,vi4 livres pour soixante aulnes1 fine dantelle de ,florance pour mettre des colletz4#hc ,after a lapse of twenty years and more1 among the articles furnished to ,mary ,stuart in #aefg1 is ,une pacque de petite dentelle2#hd and this is the sole mention of the word in all her accounts4 #bh,we find like entries in the accounts of ,henry ,,iv4's first queen4#he ,gradually the passement dentel subsided into the modern dentelle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,,grande ,,dantelle ,,au ,,point ,,devant ,l',,aiguille4--7,montbliard1 #aeih47 ,it is in a pattern book1 published at ,montbliard in #aeih1hf we first find designs for dantelles4 ,it contains #bitwenty patterns1 of all sizes1 bien petites1 petites 7,figs4 #i1 #aj1 #aa1 #ab71 moyennes1 et grosses 7,fig4 #h74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,,petite ,,dantelle4--7#aeih47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,,petite ,,dantelle4--7#aeih47 ,the word dentelle seems now in general use2 but ,vecellio1 in his ,corona1 #aeib1 has opere a mazette1 pillow lace1 and ,mignerak first gives the novelty of passements au fuzeau1 pillow lace 7,fig4 #ac71 for which ,vinciolo1 in his edition of #afbc1 also furnishes patterns 7,figs4 #ad and #ae72 and ,parasoli1 #afaf1 gives designs for merli a piombini 7,fig4 #af74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,,petite ,,dantelle4--7#aeih47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,,petite ,,dantelle4--7#aeih47 ,in the inventory of ,henrietta ,maria1 dated #afai1hg appear a variety of laces1 all qualified under the name of passement2 and in that of the ,marchal ,la ,motte1 #afbg1 we find the term applied to every description of lace4 #cj;,item1 quatre paires de manchettes garnyes de passement1 tant de ,venise1 ,gennes1 et de ,malines4#hh ,lace consists of two parts1 the ground and the pattern4 ,the plain ground is styled in ,french entoilage1 on account of its containing the flower or ornament1 which is called toil1 from the flat close texture resembling linen1 and also from its being often made of that material or of muslin4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,,passement ,,au ,,fuseau4--7,mignerak1 #afje47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,,passement ,,au ,,fuseau4--7,vinciolo1 ,edition #afbc47 ,the honeycomb network or ground1 in ,french fond1 champ1#hi rseau1 treille1 is of various kinds3 wire ground1 ,brussels ground1 trolly ground1 etc41 fond clair1 fond double1 etc4 #ca,some laces1 points and guipures are not worked upon a ground2 the flowers are connected by irregular threads overcast 7buttonhole stitch71 and sometimes worked over with pearl loops 7picot74 ,such are the points of ,venice and ,spain and most of the guipures4 ,to these uniting threads1 called by our lace-makers pearl ties--old ,randle ,holme#ij styles them coxcombs--the ,italians give the name of legs1 the ,french that of brides4#ia ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,,passement ,,au ,,fuseau4--7,vinciolo1 ,edition #afbc47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,,merletti ,a ,,piombini4--7,parasole1 #afaf47 ,the flower1 or ornamental pattern1 is either made together with the ground1 as in ,valenciennes or ,mechlin1 or separately1 and then either worked in or sewn on 7appliqu71 as in ,brussels4 ,the open-work stitches introduced into the pattern are called modes1 jours2 by our ,devonshire workers1 fillings4 ,all lace is terminated by two edges1 the pearl1 picot1#ib or couronne--a row of little points at equal distances1 and the footing or engrlure--a narrow lace1 which serves to keep the stitches of the ground firm1 and to sew the lace to the garment upon which it is to be worn4 #cb,lace is divided into point and pillow 7or more correctly bobbin7 lace4 ,the term pillow gives rise to misconceptions1 as it is impossible to define the distinction between the cushion used for some needle-laces and the pillow of bobbin-lace4 ,the first is made by the needle on a parchment pattern1 and termed needle-point1 point l'aiguille1 punto in aco4 ,the word is sometimes incorrectly applied to pillow-lace1 as point de ,malines1 point de ,valenciennes1 etc4 ,point also means a particular kind of stitch1 as point de ,paris1#ic point de neige1 point d'esprit1#id point la ,reine1 point carreaux1 chanette1 etc4 ,cet homme est bien en points1 was a term used to denote a person who wore rich laces4#ie ,the mention of point de neige recalls the quarrel of ,gros ,ren and ,marinette1 in the ,dpit ,amoureux#if of ,molire3-- ,ton beau galant de neige1#ig avec ta nonpareille1 ,il n'aura plus l'honneur d'tre sur mon oreille4 ,gros ,ren evidently returns to his mistress his point de neige nightcap4 ,the manner of making bobbin lace on a pillow#ih need hardly be described4 ,the pillow#ii is a round or oval board1 stuffed so as to form a cushion1 and placed upon the knees of the workwoman4 ,on this pillow a stiff piece of parchment is fixed1 with small holes pricked through to mark the pattern4 ,through these holes pins are stuck into the cushion4 ,the threads with which the lace is formed are wound upon bobbins1 formerly bones1#ajj now small round pieces of wood1 about the size of a pencil1 having round their upper ends a deep groove1 so formed as to reduce the bobbin to a thin neck1 on which the thread is wound1 a separate bobbin being used for each thread4 ,,plate ,,vi4 ,illustration3 ,,italian4--,modern reproduction at ,burano of ,point de ,venise la feuille et la rose1 of seventeenth century4 ,width1 #h in4 ,photo by the ,burano ,school4 ,,plate ,,vii4 ,illustration3 ,heraldic 7carnival lace71 was made in ,italy4 ,this appears to be a specimen1 though the archaic pattern points to a ,german origin4 ,the rseau is twisted and knotted4 ,circ4 #agjj4 ,the ,arms are those of a ,bishop4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden from private collection4 ,to face page #cb4 #cc;,by the twisting and crossing of these threads the ground of the lace is formed4 ,the pattern or figure1 technically called gimp1 is made by interweaving a thread much thicker than that forming the groundwork1 according to the design pricked out on the parchment4#aja ,such has been the pillow and the method of using it1 with but slight variation1 for more than three centuries4 ,to avoid repetition1 we propose giving a separate history of the manufacture in each country2 but in order to furnish some general notion of the relative ages of lace1 it may be as well to enumerate the kinds most in use when ,colbert1 by his establishment of the ,points de ,france1 in #affe1 caused a general development of the lace manufacture throughout ,europe4 ,the laces known at that period were3-- #a4 ,point4--,principally made at ,venice1 ,genoa1 ,brussels1 and in ,spain4 #b4 ,bisette4--,a narrow1 coarse thread pillow lace of three qualities1 made in the environs of ,paris#ajb by the peasant women1 principally for their own use4 ,though proverbially of little value--ce n'est que de la bisette#ajc--;it formed an article of traffic with the mercers and lingres of the day4 #c4 ,gueuse4--,a thread lace1 which owed to its simplicity #cdthe name it bore4 ,the ground was network1 the flowers a loose1 thick thread1 worked in on the pillow4 ,gueuse was formerly an article of extensive consumption in ,france1 but1 from the beginning of the last century1 little used save by the lower classes4 ,many old persons may still remember the term1 beggars' lace4 #d4 ,campane4#ajd--;,a white1 narrow1 fine1 thread pillow edging1 used to sew upon other laces1 either to widen them1 or to replace a worn-out picot or pearl4 ,campane lace was also made of gold1 and of coloured silks1 for trimming mantles1 scarfs1 etc4 ,we find1 in the ,great ,wardrobe ,accounts of ,george ,i41 #agad1aje an entry of ,gold ,campagne buttons4 ,evelyn1 in his ,fop's ,dictionary1 #afij1 gives1 ,campane1 a kind of narrow1 pricked lace2 and in the ,ladies' ,dictionary1 #afid1 it is described as a kind of narrow lace1 picked or scalloped4#ajf ,in the ,great ,wardrobe ,account of ,william ,,iii41 #afhh-i1 we have le poynt campanie tni4 #e4 ,mignonette4#ajg--;,a light1 fine1 pillow lace1 called blonde de fil1#ajh also point de tulle1 from the ground resembling that #ce;fabric4 ,it was made of ,lille thread1 bleached at ,antwerp1 of different widths1 never exceeding two to three inches4 ,the localities where it was manufactured were the environs of ,paris1 ,lorraine1 ,auvergne1 and ,normandy4#aji ,it was also fabricated at ,lille1 ,arras1 and in ,switzerland4 ,this lace was article of considerable export1 and at times in high favour1 from its lightness and clear ground1 for headdresses#aaj and other trimmings4 ,it frequently appears in the advertisements of the last century4 ,in the ,scottish ,advertiser1 #agfi1 we find enumerated among the stock-in-trade1 ,mennuet and blonde lace4 #f4 ,point double1 also called point de ,paris and point des champs3 point double1 because it required double the number of threads used in the single ground2 des champs1 from its being made in the country4 #g4 ,valenciennes4--,see ,chapter ,,xv4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,,old ,,mechlin4 #h4 ,mechlin4--,all the laces of ,flanders1 with the exception of those of ,brussels and the point double1 were known in commerce at this period under the general name of ,mechlin4 7,fig4 #ag47 #i4 ,gold lace4 #aj4 ,guipure4 #cf;,,guipure4 ,guipure1 says ,savary1 is a kind of lace or passement made of cartisane and twisted silk4 ,cartisane is a little strip of thin parchment or vellum1 which was covered over with silk1 gold1 or silver thread1 and formed the raised pattern4 ,the silk twisted round a thick thread or cord was called guipure1#aaa hence the whole work derived its name4#aab ,guipure was made either with the needle or on the pillow like other lace1 in various patterns1 shades and colours1 of different qualities and several widths4 ,the narrowest guipures were called ,ttes de ,more4#aac ,the less cartisane in the guipure1 the more it was esteemed1 for cartisane was not durable1 being only vellum covered over with silk4 ,it was easily affected by the damp1 shrivelled1 would not wash1 and the pattern was destroyed4 ,later1 the parchment was replaced by a cotton material called canetille4 ,savary says that most of the guipures were made in the environs of ,paris2#aad that formerly1 he writes in #agbj1 great quantities were consumed in the kingdom2 but since the fashion had passed away1 they were mostly exported to ,spain1 ,portugal1 ,germany1 and the ,spanish ,indies1 where they were much worn4#aae ,guipure was made of silk1 gold and silver2 from its costliness1 therefore1 it was only worn by the rich4 ,,plate ,,viii4 ,illustration3 ,,italian1 ,,venetian1 ,,flat ,,needle-,,point ,,lace4 ,,punto ,,in ,,aria4--,the design is held together by plain brides4 ,date1 circ4 #afde4 ,width1 #aa-e_/h in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,,plate ,,ix4 ,illustration3 ,,portion ,,of ,a ,,band ,,of ,,needle-,,point ,,lace ,,representing ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,judith ,,and ,,holofernes4--,the work is believed to be ,italian1 made for a ,portuguese1 the inscription being in ,portuguese4 ,date1 circ4 #aeij4 ,width1 #h in4 ,the property of ,mr4 ,arthur ,blackborne4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #cf4 #cg;,at the coronation of ,henry ,,ii4 the front of the high altar is described as of crimson velvet1 enriched with cuipure d'or2 and the ornaments1 chasuble1 and corporaliers of another altar as adorned with a riche broderie de cuipure4#aaf ,on the occasion of ,henry's entry into ,paris1 the king wore over his armour a surcoat of cloth of silver ornamented with his ciphers and devices1 and trimmed with guippures d'argent4#aag ,in the reign of ,henry ,,iii4 the casaques of the pages were covered with guipures and passements1 composed of as many colours as entered into the armorial bearings of their masters2 and these silk guipures1 of varied hues1 added much to the brilliancy of their liveries4#aah ,guipure seems to have been much worn by ,mary ,stuart4 ,when the ,queen was at ,lochleven1 ,sir ,robert ,melville is related to have delivered to her a pair of white satin sleeves1 edged with a double border of silver guipure2 and1 in the inventory of her clothes taken at the ,abbey of ,lillebourg1#aai #aefa-b1 we find numerous velvet and satin gowns trimmed with gumpeures of gold and silver4#abj ,it is singular that the word guipure is not to be found in our ,english inventories or wardrobe accounts1 a circumstance which leads us to infer1 though in opposition to higher authorities1 that guipure was in ,england termed parchment lace--a not unnatural conclusion1 since we know it was sometimes called dentelle cartisane1#aba from the slips of parchment of which it was partly composed4 ,though ,queen ,mary would use the ,french term1 it does not seem to have been adopted in ,england1 whereas parchment lace is of frequent occurrence4 ,from the ,privy ,purse ,expenses of the ,princess ,mary1#abb we find she gives to ,lady ,calthorpe a pair of sleeves of gold1 #chtrimmed with parchment lace1 a favourite donation of hers1 it would appear1 by the anecdote of ,lady ,jane ,grey4 ,a great man's daughter1 relates ,strype#abc 7the ,duke of ,suffolk's daughter ,jane71 receiving from ,lady ,mary1 before she was ,queen1 goodly apparel of tinsel1 cloth of gold1 and velvet1 laid on with parchment lace of gold1 when she saw it1 said1 ',what shall ,i do with it8' ,mary said1 ',gentlewoman1 wear it4' ',nay1' quoth she1 'that were a shame to follow my ,lady ,mary against ,god's word1 and leave my ,lady ,elizabeth1 which followeth ,god's word4' ,in the list of the ,protestant refugees in ,england1 #aefc to #aega1abd among their trades1 it is stated some live by making matches of hempe stalks1 and parchment lace4 ,again1 ,sir ,robert ,bowes1 once ambassador to ,scotland1 in his inventory1 #aeec1 has ,one cassock of wrought velvet with p'chment lace of gold4#abe ,parchment lace#abf of watchett and syllver at #gs4 #h;d4 the ounce1 appears also among the laces of ,queen ,elizabeth4#abg ,king ,charles ,i4 has his carpet bag trimmed with broad parchment gold lace1#abh his satin nightcaps with gold and silver parchment laces1#abi and even the bag and comb case for his ,majesty's barber is decorated with silver purle and parchment lace4#acj ,again1 ,charles ,,ii4 ornaments the seats on both sides the throne with silver parchment lace4#aca ,in many of the inventories circ4 #aeij1 sylke parchment lace is noted down1 and red and green parchment lace1 again1 appear among the wares found in ye ,shoppes4#acb ,but to return to the word guipure4 ,in an inventory of the ,church of the ,oratoire1 at ,paris1 of the seventeenth century1 are veils for the host3 one1 de #citaffetas blanc garny d'une guipure2 the other1 de satin blanc fleurs1 avec une dentelle de guipure4#acc ,these guipures will have also been of silk4 ,when the term was first transferred to the thread passements which are now called guipure1 it is difficult to say1 for we can find no trace of it so applied4 ,be that as it may1 the thread guipures are of old date2 many of the patterns bear the character of the rich ornamentation and capricious interlacings of the ,renaissance2 others1 again1 are pur ,louis ,quatorze 7,fig4 #ah74 ,the finest thread guipures were the produce of ,flanders and ,italy4 ,they are most varied in their style4 ,in some the bold flowing patterns are united by brides2 in others by a coarse rseau1 often circular1 and called round ground4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,,guipure4--7,louis ,,xiv47 ,in that class called by the lace-makers tape guipure1 the outline of the flowers is formed by a pillow or handmade braid about the eighth of an inch in width 7,fig4 #ai74 #dj,the term guipure is now so extensively applied it is difficult to give a limit to its meaning4 ,we can only define it as lace where the flowers are either joined by brides1 or large coarse stitches1 or lace that has no ground at all4 ,the modern ,honiton and ,maltese are guipures1 so is the ,venetian point4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,,tape ,,guipure1 ,,bobbin-,,made4--7,genoa47 ,most of these laces are enumerated in a jeu d'esprit1 entitled ,la ,rvolte des ,passemens1 published at ,paris in #affa4acd #da;,in consequence of a sumptuary edict against luxury in apparel1 ,mesdames les ,broderies-- ,les ,poinctes1 ,dentelles1 ,passemens ,qui1 par une vaine despence1 ,ruinoient aujourd'huy la ,france-- meet1 and concert measures for their common safety4 ,point de ,gnes1 with ,point de ,raguse1 first address the company2 next1 ,point de ,venise1 who seems to look on ,raguse with a jealous eye1 exclaims-- ,encore pour vous1 ,poinct de ,raguse1 ,il est bon1 crainte d'attentat1 ,d'en vouloir perger un estat4 ,les gens aussy fins que vous estes ,ne sont bons que1 comme vous faites1 ,pour ruiner tous les estats4 ,et vous1 ,aurillac ou ,venise1 ,si nous plions notre valise1 what will be our fate8 ,the other laces speak1 in their turn1 most despondently1 till a vieille broderie d'or1 consoling them1 talks of the vanity of this world3--,who knows it better than ,i1 who have dwelt in kings' houses8 ,one grande dentelle d',angleterre now proposes they should all retire to a convent4 ,to this the ,dentelles de ,flandres object2 they would sooner be sewn at once to the bottom of a petticoat4 ,mesdames les ,broderies resign themselves to become ameublement2 the more devout of the party to appear as devants d'autel2 those who feel too young to renounce the world and its vanities will seek refuge in the masquerade shops4 ,dentelle noire d',angleterre lets herself out cheap to a fowler1 as a net to catch woodcocks1 for which she felt assez propre in her present predicament4 ,the ,points all resolve to retire to their own countries1 save ,aurillac1 who fears she may be turned into a strainer pour passer les fromages d',auvergne1 a smell insupportable to one who had revelled in civet and orange-flower4 ,all were starting-- ,chacun1 dissimulant sa rage1 ,doucement ploit son bagage1 ,resolu d'obir au sort1 when ,une pauvre malheureuse1 ,qu'on apelle1 dit on1 la ,gueuse1 #db;arrives1 in a great rage1 from a village in the environs of ,paris4 ,she is not of high birth1 but has her feelings all the same4 ,she will never submit4 ,she has no refuge--not even a place in the hospital4 ,let them follow her advice and 'elle engageoit sa chanette1' she will replace them all in their former position4 ,next morn1 the ,points assemble4 ,une grande ,cravate#ace fanfaron exclaims3-- ,il nous faut venger cet affront1 ,revoltons-nous1 noble assemble4 ,a council of war ensues3-- ,la dessus1 le ,poinct d',alenon ,ayant bien appris sa leon ,fit une fort belle harangue4 ,flanders now boasts how she had made two campaigns under ,monsieur1 as a cravat2 another had learned the art of war under ,turenne2 a third was torn at the siege of ,dunkirk4 ,racontant des combats qu'ils ne virent jamais1 one and all had figured at some siege or battle4 ,qu'avons nous redouter8 cries ,dentelle d',angleterre4 ,no so1 thinks ,point de ,gnes1 qui avoit le corps un peu gros4 ,they all swear-- ,foy de ,passement1 ,foy de ,poincts et de ,broderie1 ,de ,guipure et d',orfvrerie1 ,de ,gueuse de toute faon1 to declare open war1 and to banish the ,parliament4 ,the ,laces assemble at the fair of ,st4 ,germain1 there to be reviewed by ,general ,luxe4 ,the muster-roll is called over by ,colonel ,sotte ,depense4 ,dentelles de ,moresse1 ,escadrons de ,neige1 ,dentelles de ,hvre1 ,escrues1 ,soies noires1 and ,points d',espagne1 etc41 march forth in warlike array1 to conquer or to die4 ,at the first approach of the artillery they all take to their heels1 and are condemned by a council of war--the ,points to be made into tinder1 for the sole use of the ,king's ,mousquetaires2 the ,laces to be converted into paper2 the ,dentelles1 #dc;,escrues1 ,gueuses1 ,passemens1 and ,silk ,lace to be made into cordage and sent to the galleys2 the ,gold and ,silver ,laces1 the original authors of the sedition1 to be burned alive4 ,finally1 through the intercession of ,love-- ,le petit dieu plein de finesse1 they are again pardoned and restored to court favour4 ,the poem is curious1 as giving an account of the various kinds of lace1 and as a specimen of the taste of the time1 but the ton prcieux of the ,htel ,rambouillet pervades throughout4 ,the lace trade1 up to this period1 was entirely in the hands of pedlars1 who carried their wares to the principal towns and large country-houses4 ,one ,madame ,la ,boord1 says ,evelyn1 a ,french peddling-woman1 served ,queen ,katherine with petticoats1 fans1 and foreign laces4 ,these hawkers attended the great fairs#acf of ,europe1 where all purchases were made4#acg ,even as early as ,king ,henry ,,iii4#ach we have a notice to purchase robes at the fair of ,st4 ,ives1 for the use of ,richard our brother2 and in the dramas of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries1 we find constant allusion to these provincial markets3--#aci ,seven ,pedlars' shops1 nay all ,sturbridge fair1#adj will ,scarce furnish her4#ada #dd,the custom of carrying lace from house to house still exists in ,belgium1 where at ,spa and other places1 colporteurs1#adb with packs similar to those borne by our pedlars1 bring round to the visitors laces of great value1 which they sell at cheaper rates than those exposed in the shops4#adc ,many travellers1 too1 through the counties of ,buckingham and ,bedford1 or the more southern regions of ,devon1 will still call to mind the inevitable lace box handed round for purchase by the waiter at the conclusion of the inn dinner2 as well as the girls who1 awaiting the arrival of each travelling carriage or postchaise1 climbed up to the windows of the vehicle1 rarely allowing the occupants to go their way until they had purchased some article of the wares so pertinaciously offered to their inspection4 ,in ,paris1 the lace trade was the exclusive privilege of the passementiers4#add ,,plate ,x4 ,illustration3 ,,italian4 ,,point ,,de ,,venise ,,la ,,rose4 ,modern reproduction at ,burano of seventeenth century lace4 ,width1 #ag in4 ,photo by the ,burano ,school4 ,to face page #dd4 #de;,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,italy4 ,it grazed on my shoulder1 takes me away six parts of an ,italian cut-work band ,i wore1 cost me three pounds in the ,exchange but three days before4--,ben ,jonson--,every ,man ,out of ,his ,humour1#aeii4 ,ruffles well wrought and fine falling bands of ,italian cut-work4--,fair ,maid of the ,exchange1 #afbg4 ,the ,italians claim the invention of point1 or needle-made lace4 ,it has been suggested they derived the art of fine needlework from the ,greeks who took refuge in ,italy from the troubles of the ,lower ,empire2 and what further confirms its ,byzantine origin is1 that those very places which kept up the closest intercourse with the ,greek ,empire are the cities where point lace was earliest made and flourished to the greatest extent4#ade ,a modern ,italian author1#adf on the other hand1 asserts that the ,italians learned embroidery from the ,saracens of ,sicily1 as the ,spaniards acquired the art from the ,moors of ,granada or ,seville1 and brings forward1 as proof of his theory1 that the word to embroider1 both in ,italian and ,spanish1#adg is derived from the ,arabic1 and no similar word exists in any other ,european language4#adh ,this theory may apply to embroidery1 but certainly not to lace2 for with the exception of the ,turkish crochet oyah1 and some darned netting and drawn-work which occur in ,persian and ,chinese tissues1 there is nothing approaching to lace to be found on any article of oriental manufacture4 #df,we proceed to show that evidences of the lace-fabric appear in ,italy as early as the fifteenth century4 ,in #adgf1 the ,venetian ,senate decreed that no ,punto in ,aria whatever1 executed either in flax with a needle1 or in silver or gold thread1 should be used on the curtains or bed-linen in the city or provinces4 ,among the ,state archives of the ducal family of ,este1 which reigned in ,ferrara for so many centuries1 ,count ,gandini found mentioned in a ,register of the ,wardrobe1 dated #adgf 7,a4 ,c4 #hg71 an order given for a felt hat alla ,borgognona1 trimmed with a silver and silk gimp made with bobbins4 ,besides this1 in the same document is noted 7,a4 ,c4 #if7 a velvet seat with a canopy trimmed at the sides with a frill of gold and silver1 made in squares1 with bobbins4 ,the ,cavaliere ,antonio ,merli1 in his interesting pamphlet on ,italian lace1#adi mentions an account preserved in the ,municipal ,archives of ,ferrara1 dated #adfi1 as probably referring to lace2#aej but he more especially brings forward a document of the ,sforza family1 dated#aea #adic1 in which the word trina 7under its ancient form tarnete7 constantly occurs1#aeb together with bone and bobbin lace4 ,,plate ,,xi ,illustration3 ,,italian4 ,,point ,,plat ,,de ,,venise4 ,,needle-,,point4--,seventeenth century4 ,length1 #be in42 width1 #af in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #df4 #dg;,again1 the ,florentine poet1 ,firenzuola1 who wrote from #aebj-cj1 composed an elegy upon a collar of raised point1 made by the hand of his mistress4 ,cavaliere ,merli cites1 as the earliest known painting in which lace occurs1 a majolica disc1 after the style of the ,della ,robbia family1 in which1 surrounded by a wreath of fruit1 is represented the half figure of a lady1 dressed in a rich brocade1 with a collar of white lace4 ,the costume is of the fifteenth century2 but as ,luca della ,robbia's descendants worked to a later period1 the precise date of the work cannot be fixed4 ,evidences of white lace1 or passement1 are said to appear in the pictures of ,carpaccio1 in the gallery at ,venice1 and in another by the ,gentile ,bellini1 where the dress of one of the ladies is trimmed round the neck with a white lace4#aec ,the date of this last painting is #aejj4 ,lace was made throughout ,italy mostly by the nuns1#aed and expressly for the service of the ,church4 ,venice was celebrated for her points1 while ,genoa produced almost exclusively pillow-lace4 ,the laces best known in the commercial world in the earlier periods were those of ,venice1 ,milan1 and ,genoa4 ,,venice4 ,mrs4 ,termagant3 ,i'll spoil your point de ,venise for you4--,shadwell1 ,squire of ,alsatia4 ,elle n'avoit point de mouchoir1 ,mais un riche et tres beau peignoir ,des plus chers de point de ,venise ,en negligeance elle avoit mise4 ,les ,combats1 etc41 #affc4 ,the ,venetian galleys1 at an early period1 bore to ,england apes1 sweet wines1 and other articles of luxury4 ,they brought also the gold-work of ,luk1 ,florence1 ,jeane1 #dh;and ,venice4#aee ,in our early parliamentary records are many statutes on the subject4 ,the ,italians were in the habit of giving short lengths1 gold thread of bad quality1 and were guilty of sundry other peccadilloes1 which greatly excited the wrath of the nation4 ,the balance was not in ,england's favour4 ,thei bare the gold out of this land ,and sowkethe the thrifte out of our hande ,as the waspe sowkethe the honey of the be4 ,it was these cheating ,venetians who first brought over their points into ,england4 ,in ,venice itself1 extravagance in lace was restrained in #aedb1 by a sumptuary law1 forbidding the metal laces embroidered in silk to be wider than due dita 7i4e41 about two inches74 ,this interference is highly ,venetian1 and was intended to protect the nobles and citizens from injuring themselves and setting a bad example4 ,at the coronation of ,richard ,,iii41 fringes of ,venice1 and mantil laces of white silk and ,venys gold appear1 and twenty years later ,elizabeth of ,york disburses sundry sums for gold of ,venice and other necessaries4#aef ,the queen's accounts are less explicit than those of her royal predecessor2 and though a lace is ordered for the king's mantle of the ,garter1 for which she paid sixteen shillings1 the article may have been of home manufacture4 ,from this time downwards appear occasional mention of partlets1#aeg knit caul fashion1 of ,venice gold1 and of white thread1#aeh of billament lace of ,venice1 in silver and black silk4#aei ,it is not1 however1 till the reign of ,elizabeth#afj that ,italian cut-works and ,venice lace came into general use4 ,these points found their way into ,france about the same period1 though we hear little of them4 ,,plate ,,xii ,illustration3 ,,italian4 ,,point ,,de ,,venise ,r,,seau4--,the upper ones are of yellow silk2 a chalice veil1 with dove and olive branch1 and possibly an altar border4 ,probably late seventeenth century4 ,the lower is thread1 early eighteenth century4 ,width1 #b in4 ,in private collections4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #dh4 #di,of point coupp there is mention1 and enough1 in handkerchiefs for ,madame ,gabrielle1 shirts for the king1 and fraizes for ,la ,reine ,margot2 but whether they be of ,venice or worked in ,france1 we are unenlightened4 ,the works of ,vinciolo#afa and others had already been widely circulated1 and laces and point coupp now formed the favourite occupation of the ladies4 ,perhaps one of the earliest records of point de ,venise will be found in a ridiculous historiette of ,tallemant des ,raux1 who1 gossiping of a certain ,madame de ,puissieux1#afb writes3 ,on m'assuroit qu'elle mangeoit du point coup4 ,alors les points de ,gnes1 de ,raguse1 ni d',aurillac ni de ,venise n'toient point connus et on dit qu'au sermon elle mangea tout le derrire du collet d'un homme qui etoit assis devant elle4 ,on what strange events hang the connecting threads of history6 ,by #afbf foreign dentelles et passements au fuseau were declared contraband4 ,france paying large sums of money to other countries for lace1 the ,government1 by this ordinance1 determined to remedy the evil4 ,it was at this period that the points of ,venice were in full use4#afc ,to know the age and pedigrees ,of points of ,flanders and ,venise#afd would1 in the latter case1 have been more difficult1 had it not been for the pattern-books so often quoted4 ,the earliest points1 as we already know1 soon passed from the stiff formality of the ,gotico into the flowing lines of the ,renaissance1 and into that fine patternless guipure which is1 par excellence1 called ,point de ,venise4#afe ,in the islands of the ,lagune there still lingers a tale of the first origin of this most charming production4 ,a sailor youth1 bound for the ,southern ,seas1 brought home to his betrothed a bunch of that pretty coralline 7,fig4 #bj7 known to the unlearned as the mermaid's lace4#aff ,the girl1 a worker in points1 struck by the graceful nature of the seaweed1 with its small white knots united1 as it were1 by #ej;a bride1 imitated it with her needle1 and after several unsuccessful trials produced that delicate guipure which before long became the taste of all ,europe4 ,it would be difficult to enumerate the various kinds of lace produced by ,venice in her palmy days4 ,the ,cavaliere ,merli has endeavoured to classify them according to the names in the pattern-books with which ,venice supplied the world1 as well as with her points4 ,out of some sixty of these works1 whose names have been collected1 above one-third were published in ,venice4#afg ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,,mermaid',s ,,lace4 #a4 ,punto a reticella4#afh--,made either by drawing the threads of the cloth1 as in the samplar already given 7,fig4 #e71 or by working the lace on a parchment pattern in buttonhole stitch 7punto smerlo74 7,fig4 #ba47 ,this point is identical with what is commonly called ,greek lace4 ,under this head comes punto reale 7the opposite of reticella71 where the linen ground is left and the design cut out4#afi ,punto di cartella or cordella 7card-work7 is similar in effect to reticella1 but the button-holing is done entirely over a foundation made by sewing coarse thread and bits of parchment on to the design and covering them with button-hole stitch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,reticella4 ,to face page #ej4 #eab4 ,punto tagliato4#agj--;,cut-work1 already described4 #c4 ,punto di ,venezia4 #d4 ,punto in aria4#aga--,worked on a parchment pattern1 the flowers connected by brides3 in modern parlance1 ,guipure4 #e4 ,punto tagliato a fogliami4#agb--,the richest and most complicated of all points1 executed like the former1 only with this difference1 that all the outlines are in relief1 formed by means of cottons placed inside to raise them4 ,sometimes they are in double and triple relief2 an infinity of beautiful stitches are introduced into the flowers1 which are surrounded by a pearl of geometric regularity1 the pearls sometimes in scallops or campan1 as the ,french term it4#agc ,this is our ,rose 7raised7 ,venice point1 the ,gros ,point de ,venise1 the ,punto a relievo1 so highly prized and so extensively used for albs1 collerettes1 berthes1 and costly decoration4 ,we give an example 7,fig4 #bc7 from a collar1 preserved in the ,muse de ,cluny1 once the property of a ,venetian nobleman1 worn only on state occasions4 ,two elaborate specimens were in the possession of ,mr4 ,webb2 one is a long narrow piece fringed at both ends1 which may have served as a maniple 7,fig4 #bf72 the other1 a pale#agd for the communion1 he has given to the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,these two last are made of silk of the natural cream colour4 ,both silk and thread unbleached appear to have been greatly in favour4 ,at ,paris much lace of this colour has been disposed of by its owners since the revolutions in ,italy4#age ,other varieties of so-called rose point are punto neve 7point de neige71 with its ground of starred threads resembling snowflakes1 and the coral point1 a small irregular pattern supposed to have been copied from coral4 #ebf4 ,punto a gropo1 or gropari4#agf--;,groppo1 or gruppo1 signifies a knot1 or tie1 and in this lace the threads are knotted together1 like the fringes of the ,genoese macram4#agg ,after this manner is made the trimming to the linen scarfs or cloths which the ,roman peasants wear folded square over the head1 and hanging down the back4 7,fig4 #bb47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,,punto ,a ,,gropo 7,knotted ,point74 #g4 ,punto a maglia quadra4--,lacis2 square netting1#agh the modano of the ,tuscans4 7,fig4 #bd47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,,gros ,,point ,,de ,,venise4--,from the ,collar of a ,venetian ,nobleman4 ,muse de ,cluny1 ,paris4 #afth century4 ,n4,b4--,this drawing makes the work and design appear heavier than it is in reality4 ,to face page #eb4 #ec,this ,tuscan sort was not generally embroidered2 the pattern consists in knitting the meshes together in different shapes4 ,it was much used for hangings of beds1 and those curtains placed across the windows1 called stores by the ,french1 and by the ,italians1 stuora4#agi #h4 ,burato4--,the word means a stiff cloth or canvas 7toille clere of ,taglienti1 #aebg71 on which the pattern is embroidered1 reducing it to a kind of rude lace4 ,one of the pattern-books#ahj is devoted exclusively to the teaching of this point4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,,punto ,a ,,maglia 7,lacis7 ,the needle-made laces fabricated at ,burano will be noticed later4 #i4 ,punto tirato--,drawn work4#aha ,fig4 #be is a lace ground #edmade by drawing the threads of muslin 7fili tirati74#ahb ,the present specimen is simple in design1 but some are very complicated and beautiful4 ,the ordinance of ,colbert must have inflicted a serious injury on the ,venice lace trade1 which1 says ,daru1 occupoit la population de la capitale4 ,in ,britannia ,languens1 a discourse upon trade1 ,london1 #afhj1ahc it is said that the laces commonly called ,points de ,venise now come mostly from ,france1 and amount to a vast sum yearly4 ,savary1 speaking of the thread laces termed ,venice point in the early part of the eighteenth century1#ahd says1 ,the ,french no longer purchase these articles1 having established themselves manufactures which rival those of the ,adriatic4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,,punto ,,tirato 7,drawn ,lace74 ,still the greater number of travellers#ahe make a provision of points in their passage through ,venice1 and are usually cheated1 writes a traveller about this period4#ahf ,he recommends his friend1 ,mr4 ,claude ,somebody1 a ,french dealer1 who probably paid him in ruffles for the advertisement4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,,point ,,de ,,venise ,,brides ,,picot,,es4--,early #ahth century4 ,to ,face page #ed4 #ee,our porte-bouquets and lace-trimmed nosegays are nothing new4 ,on the occasion of the annual visit of the ,doge to the ,convent delle ,vergini1 the lady abbess with the novices received him in the parlour1 and presented him with a nosegay of flowers placed in a handle of gold1 and trimmed round with the finest lace that ,venice could produce4#ahg ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,,venice ,,point4 ,fynes ,moryson#ahh is the earliest known traveller who alludes to the products of ,venice4 ,venetian ladies in general1 he says1 wear a standing collar and ruffs close up to the chin2 the unmarried tie their hair with gold and silver lace4 ,evidently the collars styled bavari1 for which ,vecellio#ahi gives patterns all' usanza ,veneziana1 were #efnot yet in general vogue4#aij ,the ,medici collars were supported by fine metal bars called verghetti1 which were so much in demand that the inhabitants of a whole quarter of ,venice were engaged in their production1 and the name which it still bears was given to it in consequence4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,,gros ,,point ,,de ,,venise4--7,first half of #agth century47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,,point ,,de ,,venise4--,end of #agth century4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4 ,,point ,,plat ,,de ,,venise4--,middle of #agth century4 ,to face page #ef4 #eg;,fifty years later1 ,evelyn speaks of the veils of glittering taffetas1 worn by the ,venetian ladies1 to the corners of which hang broad but curious tassels of point laces4 ,according to ,zedler1 an author who wrote about lace in #agdb1 the price of ,venice point in high relief varied from one to nine ducats per ,italian ell4 ,the ,venetians1 unlike the ,spaniards1 thought much of their fine linen and the decorations pertaining to it4 ,la camicia preme assai pi del giubbone1 ran the proverb--,la chemise avant le pourpoint4 ,young nobles were not allowed to wear lace on their garments until they put on the robe1 which they usually did at the age of five-and-twenty1 on being admitted to the council4#aia ,towards #aggj1 the ,venice ladies themselves commenced to forsake the fabrics of their native islands2 for on the marriage of the ,doge's son1 in that year1 we read that1 although the altar was decorated with the richest ,venice point1 the bride and her ladies wore their sleeves covered up to the shoulders with falls of the finest ,brussels lace1 and a tucker of the same material4#aib ,during the carnival1 however1 the people1 both male and female1 wore a camail1 or hood of black lace1 covering the chin up to the mouth1 called a bauta4#aic ,it was one of these old black lace hoods that ,walpole describes ,lady ,mary ,wortley ,montagu as wearing at ,florence1 #agfb1 in place of a cap4 ,point de ,venise rseau is chiefly distinguished by the conventional treatment of the flowers and ornament1 and a general flat look of the work4 ,the outlining thread or cordonnet is stitched to the edge of the pattern and worked in flatly4 ,a minute border to the cordonnet of small meshes intervenes between it and the rseau1 which is of square #ehmeshes and always very fine4 ,whether the lace was derived from the ,alenon1 and was the result of an attempt to win back the custom the ,french manufacturers were taking away from ,venice1 or whether it was ,alenon that imitated the ,venetian rseau1 is a moot point1 but certain it is that the ,venetian product surpassed in fineness both ,alenon and ,brussels4 ,its very delicacy has been its destruction1 so that very few specimens of this lace survive4 ,plate ,,xii4 ,mezzo ,punto1 or mixed ,venetian guipure1 was a mixed point lace1 of which the scrolls and flowers were outlined in pillow-lace1 or by a tape1 and the designs filled in with needle fillings1 and connected by pearled brides on a coarse needle-made rseau4 ,this variety of lace was sometimes made of silk4 ,in point de ,venise1 flat or raised1 the pattern is always connected by an irregular network of pearled brides4 ,real brides connecting the flowers here and there hardly ever occur2 and the number of picots attached to one single branch of the bride network never exceeds two4 ,the elaborately ornamental detached brides and a multiplicity of picots are characteristic of ,spanish point and early point de ,france4 ,the old ,burano laces were a coarser outcome of the point de ,venise rseau1 and alone of all ,venetian needle laces survived the dark days of the close of the eighteenth century4 ,some fine specimens of these were shown by ,m4 ,dupont d',auberville in the ,international ,exhibition1 and ,marini quotes from a document of the seventeenth century1 in which1 speaking of merletti1 it is said that these laces1 styled 'punti in aria1' or di ,burano1 because the greater part of them were made in the country so called1 are considered by ,lannoni as more noble and of greater whiteness1 and for excellency of design and perfect workmanship equal to those of ,flanders1 and in solidity superior4 ,a new departure has been taken in modern times1 in the making of hand-made laces at the island of ,burano1 near ,venice1 where a large number of girls were employed in the eighteenth century1 both in the town and the convents1 in making a point closely resembling that of ,alenon4 ,here the art lingered on as late as #ahde1 when a superannuated nun of ninety1 with whom ,mrs4 ,dennistoun1 of ,dennistoun1 conversed on the subject1 said how in her younger days she and her companions employed their time in the fabric of punto di ,burano2#aid how it was ordered long beforehand for great marriages1 and even then cost very dear4 ,she showed specimens still tacked on paper3 the ground is made right across the thread of the lace4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,,point ,,de ,,venise ,r,,seau4--,early #ahth century4 ,n4,b4--,mrs4 ,palliser incorrectly described this as ,brussels in her first ,editions4 ,to face page #eh4 #ei;,burano point had not the extreme delicacy of the ,venetian point rseau or of ,alenon1 and the late ,alenon patterns were copied4 ,though needle-made1 it was worked on a pillow arranged with a cylinder for convenience of working4 ,the unevenness of the thread gives the rseau a cloudy appearance1 and the cordonnet is1 like the ,brussels needlepoint1 of thread stitched round the outline instead of the ,alenon button-hole stitch over horse-hair4 ,the mesh of the rseau is square1 as in ,alenon4 ,fig4 #cb is copied from a specimen purchased at ,burano by the ,cav4 ,merli1 of the maker1 an old woman known by the name of ,cencia ,scarpariola4 ,in #ahff1 the industry was extinct1 and the ,contrada del ,pizzo1 once the headquarters of the lace-makers1 was a mystery to the natives1 who could no longer account for the denomination4 ,in the church is preserved a splendid series of altar-cloths of so-called ,burano point in relief1 and a fine storiato piece1 representing the mysteries of the ,passion4 ,venice point is now no more1 writes ,mrs4 ,palliser2 the sole relic of this far-famed trade is the coarse torchon lace1 of the old lozenge pattern1 offered by the peasant women of ,palestrina to strangers on their arrival at hotels1 the same fabric mentioned by ,lady ,mary ,wortley ,montagu1 when she speaks of peddling women that come on pretext of selling pennyworths of lace4 ,the formation of the school recently established there1#aie and the revival of the art of lace-making in ,burano1 arose out of the great distress which in #ahgb overtook the island4 ,the extraordinary severity of the winter that year rendered it impossible for the poor fishermen1 who form the population #fjof the island1 to follow their calling4 ,so great was the distress at that time1 while the lagoons were frozen1 that the fishermen and their families were reduced to a state bordering on starvation1 and for their relief contributions were made by all classes in ,italy1 including the ,pope and the ,king4 ,this charitable movement resulted in the collection of a fund of money1 which sufficed to relieve the immediate distress and leave a surplus for the establishment of a local industry to increase the resources of the ,burano population4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,,burano ,,point4--7,late #ahth century47 ,,plate ,,xiii4 ,illustration3 ,,italian4 ,,modern ,,point ,,de ,,burano4 ,marriage veil of ,queen ,elena of ,italy4 ,much reduced4 ,length about #g ft42 width seen about #d ft4 #f in4 ,photo by the ,burano ,school4 ,to face page #fj4 #fa,unfortunately1 the industry at first fixed upon1 namely1 that of making fishermen's nets1 gave no practical result1 the fishermen being too poor to buy the nets4 ,it was then that a suggestion was made by ,signor ,fambri that an effort should be made to revive the ancient industry of lace-making1 and ,princess ,chigi-,giovanelli and the ,countess ,andriana ,marcello were asked to interest themselves in1 and to patronise1 a school for this purpose4 ,to this application these ladies yielded a ready assent1 and at a late period ,queen ,margherita graciously consented to become the president of the institution4 ,when ,countess ,marcello1 who from that time was the life and soul of the undertaking1 began to occupy herself with the foundation of the school1 she found an old woman in ,burano1 ,cencia ,scarpariola1 who preserved the traditions of the art of lace-making1 and continued1 despite her seventy years and upwards1 to make ,burano point4 ,as she1 however1 did not understand the method of teaching her art1 the assistance was secured of ,madame ,anne ,bellorio d',este1 a very skilful and intelligent woman1 for some time mistress of the girls' school at ,burano1 who in her leisure hours took lessons in lace-making of ,cencia ,scarpariola1 and imparted her knowledge to eight pupils1 who1 in consideration of a small payment1 were induced to learn to make lace4 ,as the number of scholars increased1 ,madame ,bellorio occupied herself exclusively in teaching lace-making1 which she has continued to do with surprising results4 ,under ,madame ,bellorio's tuition1 the school1 which in #ahgb consisted of eight pupils 7who received a daily payment to induce them to attend71 now1 in #ahig1 numbers four hundred workers1 paid1 not by the day1 but according to the work each performs4 ,in ,burano everything is extremely cheap1 and a humble abode capable of accommodating a small family may be had for from six hundred to one thousand ,italian lire4 ,it is not a rare occurrence to find a young lace-worker saving her earnings in order to purchase her little dwelling1 that she may take it as a dower to her husband4 ,nearly all the young men of ,burano seek their wives from among the lace-women4 ,the school's diploma of honour speaks of the economical importance of the lace-work to the poor place of ,burano1 and the benefit which the gentle industry #fb;brings to the inhabitants of the interesting island1 whose welfare1 having passed through a series of undeserved trials1 is due exclusively to the revival of it practised on a large scale4 ,the lace made in the school is no longer confined1 as in the origin it was1 to ,burano point1 but laces of almost any design or model are now undertaken--point de ,burano1 point d',alenon1 point de ,bruxelles1 point d',angleterre1 point d',argentan1 rose point de ,venise1 ,italian punto in aria1 and ,italian punto tagliato a fogliami4 ,the school has been enriched by gifts of antique lace1 and ,queen ,margherita gave the school permission to copy two magnificent specimens of ,ecclesiastical lace--now ,crown property--that had formerly belonged to ,cardinal de ,retz1 and ,pope ,clement ,,vii4 7,rezzonico74 ,in order the better to carry out the character of the different laces1 the more apt and intelligent of these pupils1 whose task it is to trace out in thread the design to be worked1 have the advantage of being taught by professional artists4 ,the four hundred lace-workers now employed are divided into seven sections1 in order that each may continue in the same sort of work and1 as much as possible1 in the same class of lace4 ,by this method each one becomes thoroughly proficient in her own special department1 executes it with greater facility1 and consequently earns more1 and the school gets its work done better and cheaper4 ,while ,countess ,marcello was working to re-establish the making of needle-point at ,burano1 ,cav4 ,michelangelo ,jesurum was re-organising the bobbin-lace industry at ,pellestrina1 a small fishing-town on the ,lido4 ,in #ahfd the lace of ,pellestrina might have been described as an inextricable labyrinth of threads with vaguely distinguishable lines and occasional holes4 ,the lace was so imperfect1 and made in such small quantities1 that two women who went about selling it in ,venice and the country round sufficed to dispose of all that was made4 ,the pricked papers were prepared by an old peasant woman1 who made them more and more imperfect at each repetition1 losing gradually all trace of the original design4 ,cav4 ,jesurum1 by a careful copying of the old designs1 obtained valuable results1 and founded a lace-school and a flourishing industry4 ,about #ahge polychrome lace was introduced in ,venice--bobbin-lace worked in colours with designs of flowers1 fruits1 leaves1 arabesques1 and animals1 with the various tints and shading required4 ,the women who make bobbin-lace now in ,venice and in the islands amount to #c1jjj1 but it is difficult to give an exact estimate of their numbers1 as many of them are bone-workers1 wives and daughters of fishermen1 who combine the lace-making with their household duties1 with mending of nets1 and with field-work4 ,,plate ,,xiv4 ,illustration3 ,,italian4--,modern reproduction at ,burano of the flounce now belonging to the ,crown of ,italy1 formerly to ,pope ,clement ,,xiii41 ,rezzonico1 #afic-agfi4 ,height1 #bd in4 ,photo by the ,burano ,school4 ,to face page #fb4 #fc,,milan 7,,milano ,,la ,,grande74 ,margaret3 ,i saw the ,duchess of ,milan's gown that they praise so4 ,hero3 ,o that exceeds1 they say4 ,margaret3 ,by my troth1 it's but a night-gown in respect of yours2 cloth o' gold and cuts1 and laced with silver4--,much ,ado about ,nothing1 iv4 #a4 ,one of the earliest records of ,italian lace belongs to ,milan1 and occurs in an instrument of partition between the sisters ,angela and ,ippolita ,sforza ,visconti1 dated #adic 7see ,,venice74 ,this document is of the highest interest as giving the inventory of an ,italian wardrobe of the fifteenth century4 ,in it1 amidst a number of curious entries1 are veils of good network1 with cambric pillow-cases1 linen sheets1 mosquito curtains and various articles1 worked a reticella and a groppi1 with the needle1 bobbins1 bones1 and other different ways#aif mentioned in the pattern-books of the following century4 ,among other items we find1 ,half of a bundle containing patterns for ladies' work4#aig ,though the fabric of these fine points dates back for so many centuries1 there is little notice of them elsewhere4 #fd;,henry ,,viii4 is mentioned as wearing one short pair of hose of purple silk of ,venice gold1 woven like a caul1 edged with a passamaine lace of purple silk and gold1 worked at ,milan4#aih ,in a wardrobe account of ,lord ,hay1 gentleman of his ,majesty's robes1 #afjf1aii is noted down to ,james ,i41 ,one suit with cannons thereunto of silver lace1 shadowed with silk ,milan lace4 ,again1 among the articles furnished against the ,queen's lying down1 #afjf1 in the bills of the ,lady ,audrye ,walsingham1#bjj is an entry of ,lace1 ,milan fashion1 for child's waistcoat4 ,a ,french edict1 dated ,march1 #afac1 against superfluity in dress1 prohibiting the wearing of gold and silver embroidery1 specially forbids the use of all passement de ,milan1 ou faon de ,milan under a penalty of one thousand livres4#bja ,the expression point de ,milan occurs in the statutes of the passementiers of ,paris4#bjb ,les galons1 passements et broderies1 en or et en argent de ,milan1 says ,savary1#bjc were once celebrated4 ,lalande1 who writes some years later1 adds1 the laces formerly were an object of commerce to the city1 now they only fabricate those of an inferior quality4#bjd ,much was consumed by the ,lombard peasants1 the better sorts serving for ruffles of moderate price4#bje ,so opulent are the citizens1 says a writer of the same epoch1 that the lowest mechanics1 blacksmiths and shoemakers1 appear in gold stuff coats with ruffles of the finest point4#bjf ,and when1 in #agfg1 the ,auvergne lace-makers petition for an exemption from the export duty on their fabrics1 they state as a ground that the duty prevents them from competing abroad1 especially at ,cadiz1 with the lace-makers of ,piedmont1 the ,milanais1 and ,imperial ,flanders4 ,milan must1 therefore1 have made lace extensively to a late period4 ,,plate ,,xv4 ,illustration3 ,,italian4 ,,milanese ,,bobbin-,,made4--,late seventeenth century4 ,width1 #ab in4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden from private collection4 ,to face page #fd4 #fe;,fig4 #cc is a specimen of what has been termed old ,milan point1 from the convent of ,santa ,maria delle ,grazie1 in that city4 ,it is more often known as ,greek lace4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,,reticella ,,from ,,milan4 ,the so-called punti di ,milano--points de ,milan--were all bobbin-laces1 which originated in ,milan1 and1 though imitated by ,genoa and ,naples1 remained unapproached in design and workmanship4 ,after first making passements1 ,milan imitated the ,venetian points1 a fogliami1 in which the pattern has the appearance of woven linen1 with jours occasionally introduced to lighten portions of it4 ,the design was at first connected with bars1 but later1 meshes 7in the seventeenth century large meshes1 and1 still later1 smaller #ffmeshes7 filled the ground4 ,this rseau varies1 but most frequently it has four plaited sides to a mesh1 as in ,valenciennes4 ,like other ,italian laces1 ,milanese lace frequently has coats-of-arms or family badges woven in it1 such as the ,doge's horn1 the baldachino 7a special distinction accorded to ,roman princes71 the dogs of the ,carrara family1 and so on1 to commemorate a marriage or some other important event in the family4 ,this sort of lace was known as ,carnival lace when made of ,venetian point4 ,milan lace is now represented by ,cantu1 near ,lake ,como1 where the making of white and black pillow-lace gives employment to many thousands of women4 ,the torchon lace of the country is original1 and in much request with the peasantry4 ,in the underground chapel of ,san ,carlo ,borromeo1 in ,milan ,cathedral1 are preserved twenty-six camicie1 trimmed with flounces of the richest point1 all more or less splendid1 and worked in the convents of the city1 but many of the contents of this sumptuous wardrobe have rotted away from the effects of the damp atmosphere4 ,,florence4 ,of ,florence and its products we know but little1 though the ,elegy of ,agnolo ,firenzuola proves that ladies made raised point at an early period4#bjg ,his expression scolp1 carved1 sculptured in basso rilievo1 leaves no doubt upon the matter4 ,,plate ,,xvi4 ,illustration3 ,,italian1 ,,venetian4 ,,needle-,,made4--,very raised and padded4 ,first half of eighteenth century4 ,width1 #c in4 ,,plate ,,xvii4 ,illustration3 ,,italian1 ,,milanese4 ,,bobbin-,,made4--,early eighteenth century4 ,width1 #e in4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden from private collections4 ,to face page #fc ,this collar was sculptured by my lady #fg ,in bas reliefs such as ,arachne ,and she who conquered her could ne'er excel4 ,look on that lovely foliage1 like an ,acanthus1 ,which o'er a wall its graceful branches trails4 ,look on those lovely flowers of purest white1 ,which1 near the pods that open1 hang in harmony4 ,that little cord which binds each one about1 ,how it projects6 proving that she who wrought it ,is very mistress of this art4 ,how well distributed are all these points6 ,see the equality of all those little buds ,which rise like many fair proportioned hills1 ,one like the other4444 ,this hand-made lace1 this open-work1 ,is all produced by her1 this herring-bone1 ,which in the midst holds down a little cord1 ,was also made by her2 all wrought by her4 ,henry ,,viii4 granted to two ,florentines the privilege of importing for three years' time all manner of fringys and passements wrought with gold and silver or otherwise1#bjh an account of which will be found in the notice of that monarch's reign4 ,beyond this1 and the statute already mentioned1 passed at the ,sute of the ,browderers on account of the deceyptful waight of the gold of ,luk1 ,florence1 ,jeane1 and ,venice1#bji there is no allusion to the lace of ,florence in our ,english records4 ,in ,france1 as early as #aede1 the sister of ,francis ,i4 purchases soixante aulnes fine dantelle de ,florence#baj for her own use1 and some years afterwards1 #aehb1 the ,queen of ,navarre pays #ag cus #cj sols for #aj aulnes et demye of the same passement faict l'esguille haulte dantelle pour mettre des fraizes4#baa ,on the marriage of ,elizabeth de ,france with ,philip ,,ii4 in #aeei1 purchases were made of passements et de bisette1 en fil blanc de ,florence4 ,seeing the early date of these ,french accounts1 it may be inferred that ,catherine de ,mdicis first introduced1 on her arrival as a bride1 the ,italian points of her own native city4#bab ,in ,florence1 in the fifteenth century1 ,savonarola1 in his sermons 7#adhd-adia71 reproached the nuns with devoting their time to the vain fabrication of gold laces with which to adorn the houses and persons of the rich4 ,ray mentions that people of quality sent their daughters #fh;at eight years old to the ,florentine nunneries to be instructed in all manner of women's work4 ,lace was also fabricated at ,sienna1 but it appears to have been the lavoro di maglia or lacis1 called by the ,tuscans modano ricamato--embroidered network4 ,early in the last century two ,genoese nuns1 of the ,convent ,sta4 ,maria degli ,angeli in ,sienna1 executed pillow laces and gold and silver embroidery of such surpassing beauty1 that they are still carefully preserved and publicly exhibited on fte-days4 ,one ,francesca ,bulgarini also instructed the schools in the making of lace of every kind1 especially the ,venetian reticella4#bac ,,the ,,abruzzi4 ,in the ,abruzzi1 and also the ,province of the ,marche1 coarse laces are made4 ,these are worked without any drawing1 the rude design being made by skipping the pin-holes on a geometrically perforated card4 ,the pattern is surrounded by a heavy thread1 and composed of a close stitch worked between the meshes of a coarse net ground4 ,this lace somewhat resembles ,dalecarlian lace4 ,in the eighteenth century fine pillow lace was also made in these provinces4 ,the celebrated industry of ,offida in the ,marche has sunk into artistic degradation4 ,,romagna4 ,lace was made in many parts of ,romagna4 ,besides the knotted lace already alluded to1#bad which is still made and worn by the peasants1 the peasant women wore on their collerettes much lace of that large-flowered pattern and fancy ground1 found alike in ,flanders and on the headdresses of the ,neapolitan and ,calabrian peasants4 ,specimens of the lace of the province of ,urbino resemble in pattern and texture the fine close lace on the collar of ,christian ,,iv41 figured in our notice of ,denmark4 ,the workmanship is of great beauty4 ,reticella is made at ,bologna1 and was revived in ,january1 #aijj1 by the ,aemilia-,ars ,co-operative ,society4 ,the designs are for the most part taken from old pattern-books1 such as ,parasole4 #fi;,fig4 #cd represents a fragment of a piece of lace of great interest1 communicated by the ,countess ,gigliucci4 ,it is worked with the needle upon muslin1 and only a few inches of the lace are finished4 ,this incompleteness makes it the more valuable1 as it enables us to trace the manner of its execution1 all the threads being left hanging to its several parts4 ,the ,countess states that she found the work at a villa belonging to ,count ,gigliucci1 near ,fermo on the ,adriatic1 and it is supposed to have been executed by the ,count's great-grandmother above #afj years ago--an exquisite specimen of the needle's excellency4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,,unfinished ,,drawn-,,work4 ,though the riches of our ,lady of ,loreto fill a volume in themselves1#bae and her image was fresh clad every day of the year1 the account of her jewels and plate so overpower any mention of her laces1 which were doubtless in accordance with #gjthe rest of the wardrobe1 that there is nothing to tell on the subject4 ,the laces of the ,vatican and the holy ,conclave1 mostly presents from crowned heads1 are magnificent beyond all description4 ,they are1 however1 constantly in the market1 sold at the death of a ,cardinal by his heirs1 and often repurchased by some newly-elected prelate1 each of whom on attaining a high ecclesiastical dignity is compelled to furnish himself with several sets4 ,a lady#baf describing the ceremony of washing the feet by the ,pope1 writes1 in #agga1 ,one of his cardinals brought him an apron#bag of old point with a broad border of ,mechlin lace1 and tied it with a white ribbon round his holiness's waist4 ,in this guise protected1 he performed the ceremony4 ,clement ,,ix4 was in the habit of making presents of ,italian lace1 at that period still prized in ,france1 to ,monsieur de ,sorbire1 with whom he had lived on terms of intimacy previous to his elevation4 ,he sends ruffles1 cries the irritated ,gaul1 who looked for something more tangible1 to a man who never has a shirt4#bah ,,naples4 ,when ,davies1 ,barber ,surgeon of ,london1#bai visited ,naples in #aeig1 he writes1 ,among the traffic of this city is lace of all sorts and garters4 ,fynes ,moryson1 his contemporary1 declares the ,italians care not for foreign apparel1 they have ruffles of ,flanders linen wrought with ,italian cut-work so much in use with us4 ,they wear no lace in gold and silver1 but black2 while ,lassels says1 all they care for is to keep a coach2 their point de ,venise and gold lace are all turned into horses and liveries4#bbj ,,plate ,,xviii4 ,illustration3 ,,cushion ,,made ,,at ,,the ,,school4--,these coloured silk laces are reproductions of the sixteenth century4 ,size1 #bj #ab in4 ,,plate ,,xix4 ,illustration3 ,,italy4--,group of workers of the ,brazza ,school1 ,torreano di ,martignacco1 ,friuli1 showing the different kinds of lacework done and pillows in use4 ,photos by ,contessa di ,brazza4 ,to face page #gj4 #ga,of this lace we find but scanty mention4 ,in the tailor's bill of ,sir ,timothy ,hutton1 #afae1 when a scholar at ,cambridge1 a charge is made for four oz4 and a half quarter and dram of ,naples lace4 ,and in the accounts of laces furnished for the marriage of the ,princess ,elizabeth to the ,elector ,palatine1 #afab1 is noted narrow black ,naples lace1 purled on both sides4 ,the principal fabric of lace was in the ,island of ,ischia4 ,vecellio1 in #aeij1 mentions the ladies' sleeves being trimmed with very fine thread lace4#bba ,ischia lace may still be met with1 and serves for trimming toilets1 table-covers1 curtains1 etc41 consisting generally of a square netting ground1 with the pattern embroidered4 ,black silk lace also used to be made in ,ischia4 ,much torchon lace1 of well-designed patterns1 was also made1 similar in style to that given in ,fig4 #dj4 ,though no longer fabricated in the island1 the women at ,naples still make a coarse lace1 which they sell about the streets4#bbb ,the punto di ,napoli is a bobbin lace1 resembling the punto di ,milano1 but distinguished from it by its much rounder mesh and coarser make4 ,towards the middle of the last century1 many of the ,italian sculptors adopted an atrocious system1 only to be rivalled in bad taste by those of the ,lower ,empire1 that of dressing the individuals they modelled in the costume of the period1 the colours of the dress represented in varied marbles4 ,in the villa of ,prince ,valguarnera1 near ,palermo1 were some years since many of these strange productions with rich laces of coffee-coloured point1 admirably chiselled1 it must be owned1 in giallo antico1 the long flowing ruffles and head-99tires of the ladies being reproduced in white alabaster4#bbc #gb;,,genoa 7,,genova ,,la ,,superba74 ,lost1--,a rich needle work called ,poynt ,jean1 a yard and a half long and half quarter broad4--,the ,intelligencer1 ,feb4 #bi1 #affc4 ,genoa1 for points4--,grand ,tour4 #agef4 ,the art of making gold thread1 already known to the ,etruscans1 took a singular development in ,italy during the fourteenth century4 ,genoa#bbd first imitated the gold threads of ,cyprus4 ,lucca followed in her wake1 while ,venice and ,milan appear much later in the field4 ,gold of ,jeane formed1 as already mentioned1 an item in our early statutes4 ,the merchants mingled the pure gold with ,spanish laton1 producing a sort of faux galon1 such as is used for theatrical purposes in the present day4 ,they made also silver and gold lace out of drawn wire1 after the fashion of those discovered1 not long since1 at ,herculaneum4 ,when ,skippin visited ,turin1 in #afea1 he described the manner of preparing the metal wire4 ,the art maintained itself latest at ,milan1 but died out towards the end of the seventeenth century4 ,our earliest mention of ,genoa lace is1#bbe as usual1 to be found in the ,great ,wardrobe ,accounts of ,queen ,elizabeth1 where laces of ,jeane of black serico satten1 of colours1#bbf and billement lace of ,jeane silk1 are noted down4 ,they were1 however1 all of silk4 ,it is not till after a lapse of nigh seventy years that first ,point de ,gnes appears mentioned in an ordinance1#bbg and in the wardrobe of ,mary de ,mdicis is enumerated1 among other articles1 a mouchoir de point de ,gennes fris4#bbh #gc,moryson1 who visited the ,republic in #aehi1 declares the ,genoese wear no lace or gardes4 ,as late as #aeig1 writes ,vulson de la ,colombire1#bbi ni les points de ,gennes1 ni de ,flandre n'etoient en usage4 ,it was not before the middle of the seventeenth century that the points of ,genoa were in general use throughout ,europe4 ,handkerchiefs1 aprons1 collars1#bcj seem rather to have found favour with the public than lace made by the yard4 ,no better customer was found for these luxurious articles of adornment than the fair ,madame de ,puissieux1 already cited for her singular taste in cut-work4 ,elle toit magnifique et ruina elle et ses enfans4 ,on portoit en ce temps-la1 writes ,st4 ,simon2 force points de ,gnes qui toient extrmement chers2 c'toit la grande parure--et la parure de tout age3 elle en mangea pour #ajj1jjj ecus 7#bj1jjj7 en une anne1 ronger entre ses dents celle qu'elle avoit autour de sa tte et de ses bras4#bca ,the ,genoese utter a world of points of needlework1 writes ,lassels1 at the end of the century1 and throughout the eighteenth we hear constantly of the gold1 silver and thread lace1 as well as of the points of ,genoa1 being held in high estimation4 ,gold and silver lace was prohibited to be worn within the walls of the city1 but they wear1 writes ,lady ,mary ,wortley ,montagu1 exceeding fine lace and linen4#bcb ,indeed1 by the sumptuary laws of the ,republic1 the richest costume allowed to the ladies was black velvet trimmed with their home-made point4 ,the femmes bourgeoises still edge their aprons with point lace1 and some of the elder women wear square linen veils trimmed with coarse lace4#bcc #gd,that decayed city1 ,genoa1 makes much lace1 but inferior to that of ,flanders1 states ,anderson in his ,origin of ,commerce1 #agfd4 ,the ,genoese wisely encouraged their own native manufacture1 but it was now1 however1 chiefly for home consumption4 ,savary1 speaking of the ,genoa fabric1 says3 ,as regards ,france1 these points have had the same lot as those of ,venice--ruined by the act of prohibition4 ,in #ahdj1 there were only six lace-sellers in the city of ,genoa4 ,the women work in their own houses1 receiving materials and patterns from the merchant who pays for their labour4#bcd ,lace1 in ,genoa1 is called pizzo4 ,punti in aco were not made in this city4 ,the points of ,genoa1 so prized in the seventeenth century1 were all the work of the pillow1 a piombini1#bce or a mazzetta1 as the ,italians term it1 of fine handspun thread brought from ,lombardy4 ,silk was procured from ,naples4 ,of this ,lombardy thread were the magnificent collars of which we give an example 7,fig4 #ce71 and the fine guipures rseau which were fashioned into aprons and fichus4 ,the old ,genoa point still finds favour in the eyes of the clergy1 and on fte days1 either at ,genoa or ,savona1 may be seen splendid lace decorating the camicie of the ecclesiastics4 ,the ,ligurian or ,genoese guipures have four entirely distinctive characters4 ,the ,hispano-,moresque 7or ,greek7 point de ,gnes fris1 the ,vermicelli from ,rapallo and ,santa ,margherita1 a lace resembling ,milanese lace with brides1 and a fourth kind1 entirely different from these varieties1 called fugio 7,i fly71 as it is very soft and airy4 ,it is an adaptation of guipure-like ribbons of weaving1 with open-work variations1 held together by a very few bars4 ,in all these laces1 as in ,neapolitan and ,milanese lace1 a crochet needle is used to join the bars and design by drawing one thread through a pin-hole in the lace and passing a free bobbin through the loop to draw the knot tight4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,,genoa ,,point1 ,,bobbin-,,made4 ,from a collar in the possession of the ,author4 ,this is an elaborate specimen of ,point de ,gnes fris--,italian merletti a piombini4 ,the plaits almost invariably consist of four threads4 ,to face page #gd4 #ge,the lace manufacture extends along the coast from ,albissola1 on the ,western ,riviera1 to ,santa ,margherita on the eastern4 ,santa ,margherita and ,rapallo are called by ,luxada#bcf the emporium of the lace industry of ,genoa1 and are still the greatest producers of pillow-lace on the coast4 ,the workers are mostly the wives and daughters of the coral-fishers who support themselves by this occupation during the long and perilous voyages of their husbands4 ,in the archives of the parochial church of ,santa ,margherita is preserved a book of accounts1 in which mention is made1 in the year #aeib1 of gifts to the church1 old nets from the coral fishery1 together with pisetti 7pizzi71 the one a votive offering of some successful fishermen1 the other the work of their wives or daughters1 given in gratitude for the safe return of their relatives4 ,there was also found an old worn parchment pattern for a kind of tape guipure 7,fig4 #cf74bcg ,the manufacture1 therefore1 has existed in the province of ,chiavari for many centuries4 ,much of this description of lace is assigned to ,genoa4 ,in these tape guipures the tape or braid was first made1 and the ground worked in on the parchment either by the needle or on the pillow4 ,the laces consist of white thread of various qualities1 either for wear1 church decoration1 or for exportation to ,america4 ,later1 this art gave place to the making of black blonde1 in imitation of ,chantilly1 of which the centres in ,italy are now ,genoa and ,cantu4 ,in the year #ahej the lace-workers began to make guipures for ,france1 and these now form their chief produce4 ,the exportation is very great1 and lace-making is the daily occupation1 not only of the women1 but of the ladies of the commune4#bch ,in #ahfb ,santa ,margherita had #b1baj lace-workers3 ,rapallo1 #a1did4 ,the maestri1 or overseers1 receive all orders from the trade1 and find hands to execute them4 ,the silk and thread required for the lace is weighed out and given to the lace-makers1 and the work when completed is re-weighed to see that it corresponds with that of the material given4 ,the maestri contrive to realise large fortunes1 and become in time signori2 not so the poor lace-makers1 whose hardest day's gain seldom exceeds a franc and a half4#bci ,embroidered lace is also made at ,genoa4 ,on a band of tulle are embroidered in darning-stitch flowers or small detached springs1 and the ground is sometimes sem with little embroidered dots4 ,a coarse thread outlines the embroidery4 #gf;,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,,lace ,,pattern ,,found ,,in ,,the ,,church ,,at ,,santa ,,margherita 7circ4 #aeib74 ,,plate ,,xx4 ,illustration3 ,,italian4 ,,bobbin ,,tape ,,with ,,needle-,,made ,r,,seau4 ,width1 #h in4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,,plate ,,xxi4 ,illustration3 ,,italian1 ,,genoese4 ,,scalloped ,,border ,,of ,,unbleached ,,threads1 ,,twisted ,,and ,,plaited4--,sixteenth or seventeenth century4 ,width1 #e in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #gf4 #gg;,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,,parchment ,,pattern ,,used ,,to ,,cover ,a ,,book1 ,,bearing ,,the ,,date #aegg4 7,reduced47 ,the laces of ,albissola1#bdj near ,savona1 of black and white thread1 or silk of different colours1 were once an article of considerable exportation to the principal cities of ,spain1 ,cadiz1 ,madrid and ,seville4 ,this industry was of early date4 ,in many of the parochial churches of ,albissola are specimens of the native fabric dating from #afjj1 the work of devout ladies2 and parchment patterns drawn and pricked for pillow-lace1 bearing the earlier date of #aegg1 have been found covering old law books1 the property of a notary of ,albissola4 ,the designs 7,fig4 #cg7 are flowing1 but poor1 and have probably served for some shawl or apron1 for it was a custom long handed down for the daughters of great nobles1 previous #ghto their marriage1 to select veils and shawls of this fabric1 and1 in the memory of an aged workwoman 7#ahfd71 the last of these bridal veils was made for a lady of the ,gentili family4 ,princes and lords of different provinces in ,italy sent commissions to ,albissola for these articles in the palmy days of the fabric1 and four women would be employed at one pillow1 with sixty dozen bobbins at a time4#bda ,the making of this lace formed an occupation by which women in moderate circumstances were willing to increase their incomes4 ,each of these ladies1 called a maestra1 had a number of workers under her1 either at home or out4 ,she supplied the patterns1 pricked them herself1 and paid her workwomen at the end of the week1 each day's work being notched on a tally4#bdb ,the women would earn from ten soldi to two lire a day4 ,the last fine laces made at ,albissola were bought up by the lace-merchants of ,milan on the occasion of the coronation of ,napoleon ,i4 in that city4#bdc ,among the ,alenon laces is illustrated a beautiful lappet sent from ,genoa1 now in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4#bdd ,the pattern is of the ,louis ,quinze period1 and the lovely diapered ground recalls the mayflower of the ,dresden and the oeil-de-perdrix of the ,svres china of that time4 ,it was supposed to be of ,italian workmanship1 though the very fine ground introduced in the modes of the riband pattern is the true ,alenon rseau stitch4 ,m4 ,dupont ,auberville claimed it for ,alenon1 asserting he had met with the same ground on point undoubtedly of that manufacture4 ,he named it rseau rosac4 ,a considerable quantity of lace was formerly made from #githe fibre of the aloe 7filo d'erba spada7#bde by the peasants of ,albissola1 either of its natural cream colour or dyed black4 ,this lace1 however1 like that fabricated in the neighbourhood of ,barcelona1 would not stand washing4#bdf ,there exists a beautiful and ingenious work taught in the schools and convents along the ,riviera4 ,it is carried to a great perfection at ,chiavari and also at the ,albergo de' ,poveri at ,genoa4 ,you see it in every stage4 ,it is almost the first employment of the fingers which the poor children of either sex learn4 ,this art is principally applied to the ornamenting of towels1 termed ,macram1#bdg a long fringe of thread being left at each end for the purpose of being knotted together in geometrical designs 7,fig4 #ch74 ,macram at the ,albergo de' ,poveri were formerly made with a plain plaited fringe1 till in #ahdc1 the ,baroness ,a4 d' ,asti brought one from ,rome1 richly ornamented1 which she left as a pattern4 ,marie ,picchetti1 a young girl1 had the patience to unpick the fringe and discover the way it was made4 ,a variety of designs are now executed1 the more experienced inventing fresh patterns as they work4 ,some are applied to church purposes4 ,specimens of elaborate workmanship were in the ,paris ,exhibition of #ahfg4 ,these richly-trimmed macram form an item in the wedding trousseau of a ,genoese lady1 while the commoner sorts find a ready sale in the country1 and are also exported to ,south ,america and ,california4#bdh #hj;,,cantu4 ,cantu1 a small town near ,lake ,como1 is one of the greatest lace-producing centres in ,italy4 ,the lace industry was planted there in the sixteenth century by the nuns of the ,benedictine order1 and until fifty years ago was confined to simple and rude designs4 ,during the latter half of the nineteenth century1 however1 the industry has been revived and the designs improved4 ,thousands of women throughout the province work at it and dispose of their lace independently to travelling merchants1 or work under the direction of the ,cantuese lace-merchants4 ,the laces are all made with bobbins with both thread and silk4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,,fringed ,,macram4--7,genoa47 ,,sicily4 ,sicily was celebrated in olden times for its gold and metal laces1 but this fabric has nearly died out4 ,an attempt1 however1 is now being made to organise a revival of the lace industry as a means of support for the women of ,palermo and other populous centres4 ,,plate ,,xxii4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xxiii4 ,illustration3 ,,italian4 ,,old ,,peasant ,,laces1 ,,bobbin ,,made4--,actual size4 ,,plate ,,xxiv4 ,illustration3 ,,italian4 ,,modern ,,peasant ,,bobbin ,,lace4--,made at the ,school at ,asolo near ,bassano1 founded by ,browning4 ,width about #d in4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #hj4 #ha;,at ,messina1 embroidered net 7lacis7 was made1 and bobbin-laces and the antique ,sicilian drawn-work are now copied in the women's prison there4 ,torchon1 a lace which is also made in ,sicily1 has no design worked upon the parchment4 ,the peasant follows the dictates of her fancy1 and forms combinations of webs and nets by skipping the holes pricked at regular intervals over the strip of parchment sewed upon the cushion or ballon4#bdi ,there are other variations of old ,italian laces and embroideries which have not been mentioned here on account of space2 either they are not often met with--certainly not outside ,italy--or in some cases they appear to be only local names for the well-known sorts4 #hb;,,chapter ,v4 ,,greece4 ,encor pour vous poincts de ,raguse ,il est bon1 crainte d'attentat1 ,d'en vouloir purger un ,estat2 ,les gens aussi fins que vous estes ,ne sont bons que comme vous faites ,pour ruiner les ,estats4--,la ,rvolte des ,passemens4 ,we have already spoken of ,greece as the cradle of embroidery1 and in those islands which escaped the domination of the ,turks1 the art still lingered on4 ,cyprus1 to which in after times ,venice gave a queen1 was renowned for its gold1 its stuffs1 and its needlework4 ,as early as #acic1 in an inventory of the ,dukes of ,burgundy1 we find noted un petit pourpoint de satin noir1 et est la gorgerette de maille d'argent de ,chippre--a collar of silver network4#bej ,the peasants now make a coarse thread lace1 and some fine specimens have recently been made in white silk1 which were exhibited in the ,cyprus ,court of the ,colonial and ,indian ,exhibition of #ahhf1 and are now in the possession of the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,in our own country1 in #adbc1 we have a statute touching the deceitful works of the embroiderers of gold and of silver of ,cipre1 which shall be forfeited to the king4#bea ,but the secret of these cunning works became1 after a time1 known throughout ,europe4 ,of cut-works or laces from ,cyprus#beb and the islands of the ,grecian seas1 there is no mention2 but we hear much of a certain point known to the commerce of the seventeenth century as that of ,ragusa1 which1 after an ephemeral existence1 disappears from the scene4 ,of ,ragusa1 #hcsays ,anderson1 her citizens1 though a ,popish state1 are manufacturers to a man4 ,ragusa1 comparatively near the ,montenegrin sea-board1 and north-western coast of ,greece1 was1 in the fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries1 one of the principal ,adriatic ports belonging to the ,venetian ,republic4 ,certain it is that this little republic1 closely allied with the ,italian branches of the ,house of ,austria1 served them with its navy1 and in return received from them protection4 ,the commerce of ,ragusa consisted in bearing the products of the ,greek islands and ,turkey to ,venice1 ,ancona1 and the kingdom of ,naples2#bec hence it might be inferred that the fine productions of the ,greek convents were first introduced into ,italy by the merchants of ,dalmatia1 and received on that account the denomination of points de ,raguse4 ,when ,venice had herself learned the art1 these cut-works and laces were no longer in demand2 but the fabric still continued1 and found favour in its native isles1 chiefly for ecclesiastical purposes1 the dress of the islanders1 and for grave-clothes4 ,in our ,english statutes we have no allusion to the point de ,raguse2 in those of ,france#bed it appears twice4 ,tallemant des ,raux#bee and the ,rvolte des ,passemens#bef both give it honourable notice4 ,judging from the lines addressed to it in the last-named jeu d'esprit1 point de ,raguse was of a more costly character1 faite pour ruiner les estats1#beg than any of those other points present4 ,if1 however1 from this period it did still form an article of commerce1 we may infer that it appeared under the general appellation of point de ,venise4 ,ragusa had affronted ,louis ,quatorze by its attachment to the ,austro-,italian princes2 he kicked out her ambassadors1#beh and if the name of the point was unpleasant1 we may feel assured it was no longer permitted to offend the royal ears4 #hd;,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,,silk ,,gimp ,,lace4 ,though no manufacture of thread lace is known at ,ragusa1 yet much gold and silver lace is made for ornamenting the bodices of the peasants4 ,they still also fabricate a kind of silk lace or gimp1 made of twisted threads of cotton covered with metal1 which is sewn down the seams of the coats and the bodices of the peasantry4 ,the specimen1 illustrated in ,fig4 #ci1 may possibly be the old1 long-lost point de ,raguse4 ,its resemblance1 with its looped edges1 to the pattern given from ,le ,pompe1#bei published at ,venice in #aeeg1 is very remarkable4 ,we have seen specimens from ,italy and ,turkey4 ,,plate ,,xxv4 ,illustration3 ,,sicilian4 ,,old ,,drawn-,,work4--,height1 #ab in4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden from ,salviati ,co4's ,collection4 ,,plate ,,xxvi4 ,illustration3 ,,south ,,italian4--,the upper one is seventeenth century ,church lace--rseau of threads twisted into star-shaped meshes4 ,the three lower are considered eighteenth century ,,cretan4 ,all pillow made of thread and silk4 ,widths3 #b1 #b1 #a1 #c in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #hd4 #he,the conventionally termed ,greek lace is really the ,italian reticella4 ,the designs of the earliest ,greek laces were all geometrical1 the oldest being simple outlines worked over ends or threads left after others had been drawn or cut4 ,next in date come the patterns which had the outlines further ornamented with half circles1 triangles1 or wheels4 ,later1 open-work with thick stitches was produced4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,,reticella1 ,,or ,,greek ,,lace4--7,zante47 ,the principal seats of the manufacture were the ,ionian ,isles1 ,zante1 ,corfu1 ,venice1 ,naples1 ,rome1 ,florence and ,milan4 ,the ,ionian ,islands for many years belonged to ,venice1 which accounts for the similarity in the manufacture4 ,fig4 #dj is from a specimen purchased in the ,island of ,zante4 ,this lace was much in vogue in ,naples for curtains1 bed-hangings1 and coverlets1 and even formed a substitute for #hftapestry4 ,a room hung with bands of ,greek lace1 alternated with crimson or amber silk1 has a most effective appearance4 ,the church lace of the ,ionian ,isles was not appreciated by the natives1 who were only too glad to dispose of it to the ,english officers in garrison at ,corfu4 ,much is still found in ,cephalonia3 the natives bring it on board the steamers for sale1 black with age1 and unpleasant to the senses4 ,this is not to be wondered at when we consider that it is taken from the tombs1 where for centuries it has adorned the grave-clothes of some defunct ,ionian4 ,this hunting the catacombs has now become a regular trade4 ,it is said that much coarse lace of the same kind is still made in the islands1 steeped either in coffee or some drug1 and1 when thus discoloured1 sold as from the tombs 7#ahfi74 ,the ,greek islands now fabricate lace from the fibre of the aloe1 and a black lace similar to the ,maltese4 ,in ,athens1 and other parts of ,greece proper1 a white silk lace is made1 mostly consumed by the ,jewish ,church4 ,,crete4 ,pillow-lace making in ,crete would seem to have arisen in consequence of ,venetian intercourse with the island4 ,the ,cretan laces#bfj were chiefly of silk1 which seems to point to a cultivation of silk in the island1 as well as to its importation from the neighbouring districts of ,asia ,minor1 when laces were made there1 at least one hundred years ago4 ,in #ahge1 the ,south ,kensington ,museum acquired a collection of ,cretan laces and embroideries1 some of which 7the white thread laces7 bear distinct traces of ,venetian influence1 as1 for example1 those in which costumed figures are introduced4 ,as a rule1 the motives of ,cretan lace patterns are traceable to orderly arrangement and balance of simple geometric and symmetrical details1 such as diamonds1 triangles and quaint polygonal figures1 which are displayed upon groundworks of small meshes4 ,the workmanship is somewhat remarkable1 especially that displayed in the making of the meshes for the grounds4 ,here we have an evidence of ability to twist and #hgplait threads as marked1 almost as that shown by the lace-makers of ,brussels and ,mechlin4 ,whether the twisting and plaiting of threads to form the meshes in this ,cretan lace was done with the help of pins or fine-pointed bones1 may be a question difficult to solve4 ,the patterns in the majority of the specimens are outlined with one1 two1 or three bright-coloured silken threads1 which may have been worked in with the other threads as the cordonnet in ,mechlin4 ,the numerous interlacements which this cordonnet makes with the lace point also to the outline having perhaps been run in with a needle4 ,,turkey4 ,the ,turks wear no lace or cut stuff1 writes ,moryson 7#aehi71 winding up with neither do the women wear lace or cut-work on their shirts2 but a hundred and fifty years later fashions are changed in the ,east4 ,the ,grand ,turk now issues sumptuary laws against the wearing gold lace on clothes and elsewhere4#bfa ,a fine white silk guipure is now made in modern ,turkey at ,smyrna and ,rhodes1 oriental in its style2 this lace is formed with the needle or tambour hook4 ,lace or passementerie of similar workmanship1 called oyah is also executed in colours representing flowers1 fruits and foliage1 standing out in high relief from the ground4 ,numerous specimens were in the ,international ,exhibition of #ahfg4 ,the point lace manufactured in the harems is little known and costly in price4 ,it is said to be the only silk guipure made with the needle4 ,edgings of it resemble in workmanship ,figs4 #aba and #abb4 ,,malta4 ,the lace once made in ,malta1 indigenous to the island1 was a coarse kind of ,mechlin or ,valenciennes of one arabesque pattern4#bfb ,in #ahcc1 ,lady ,hamilton ,chichester #hh;induced a woman named ,ciglia to copy in white the lace of an old ,greek coverlet4 ,the ,ciglia family from that time commenced the manufacture of the black and white silk guipures1 so generally known under the name of ,maltese lace4 ,much ,maltese is made in the orphanage in the little adjacent island of ,gozo4 ,malta has certainly the first claim to the invention of these fine guipures1 which have since made the fortune of ,auvergne1 where they have been extensively manufactured at ,le ,puy1 as well as by our own lace-makers of ,bedfordshire and in the ,irish schools4 ,the black is made of ,barcelona silk1 the same used in ,catalonia for the fabrication of the black blonde mantillas of the ,spanish ladies4 ,fig4 #da represents the lace round the ecclesiastical robe of ,hugues ,loubeux de ,verdale1 ,cardinal and ,grand ,master of the ,knights of ,malta1 who died in #aeie1 and is buried in the church of ,st4 ,john1 where a magnificent tomb is erected to his memory4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4 ,,loubeux ,,de ,,verdale4--7,from the cast of his ,tomb1 ,muse de ,versailles47 ,pillow-laces made by women in ,ceylon and ,travancore1 as well as elsewhere in ,india1#bfc seem to owe more to the instruction of the ,portuguese than to the ,dutch or ,english4 ,we mention it in this place because the specimens of thread pillow-lace from ,point de ,galle and ,candy bear a striking resemblance to the ,maltese4 ,,plate ,,xxvii4 ,illustration3 ,,italian1 ,,rapallo4 ,,modern ,,peasant ,,lace1 ,,bobbin ,,made1 ,,in ,,silk4--,actual size4 ,,plate ,,xxviii4 ,illustration3 ,,maltese4 ,,modern1 ,,bobbin ,,made ,,in ,,silk4--,about two-thirds actual size4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #hh4 #hi;,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,,bobbin-,,lace4--7,ceylon47 ,the specimens of ,indian pillow-laces1 wrought with white and black threads1 in the ,india ,museum1 are apparently made in single pieces1 and not as in ,honiton laces1 by separate flowers1 which are subsequently placed together for the ground to be worked in between them4#bfd ,a missionary taught a few ,chinese women to make silk lace from the wild silk of this part of ,china1 reports ,consul ,bullock from ,chefoo 7at the request of the ,nottingham ,chamber of ,commerce71 but the small quantity of lace so produced is sold to ,europeans only4 ,the ,chinese do not care to buy it4 ,acting ,consul ,trotman also reported from ,hangkow1 that a large quantity of hand-made lace is made in the ,roman ,catholic orphanages there1 but this was entirely for ,european consumption4 ,white lace in ,china is not woven by the natives1 for white and blue being the national mourning colours1 and severe simplicity of dress being de rigueur on these occasions1 lace of these colours has no sale4#bfe #ij;,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,spain4 ,of ,point d',espagne a rich cornet1 ,two night rails and a scarf beset1 ,with a large lace and collaret4 --,evelyn1 ,voyage to ,marryland4 ,hat laced with gold ,point d',espagne4#bff --,wardrobe of a ,pretty ,fellow1 ,roderick ,random4 ,the ,count3 ',voglio una punta di ,spagna1 larga1 massiccia1 ben lavorata4 ,del disegno1 della ricchezza1 ma niente di luccicante4--,goldoni1 ,l',avaro fastoso4 ,spanish point1 in its day1 has been as celebrated as that of ,flanders and ,italy4 ,tradition declares ,spain to have learned the art from ,italy1 whence she communicated it to ,flanders1 who1 in return1 taught ,spain how to make pillow-lace4 ,though the dress of the ,court1 guided not by the impulse of fashion1 but by sumptuary laws1 gave little encouragement to the fabric1 on the other hand1 the numberless images of our ,lady and other patron saints1 dressed and redressed daily in the richest vestments1 together with the albs of the priests and the decorations of the altars1 caused an immense consumption of lace for ecclesiastical purposes4 ,of so great value1 says ,beckford1 were the laces of these favoured ,madonnas1 that in #aghg the ,marchioness of ,cogalhudo1 wife of the eldest son of the semi-royal race of ,medino ,coeli1 was appointed ,mistress of the ,robes to our ,lady of ,la ,solidad1 at ,madrid1 a much-coveted office4 #ia;,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4 ,,the ,,work-,,room4--7,from an engraving of the ,sixteenth ,century after ,stradan47 ,point d',espagne1 in the usual sense of the word1 signifies that gold or silver lace1 sometimes embroidered in colours1 so largely consumed in ,france during the earlier years of ,louis ,,xiv4's reign4 ,ornaments made of plaited and twisted gold and silver threads were produced in ,spain during the seventeenth century1 and mention of them is to be found in the ordinances of that time4 ,towards the end of the century1 ,narciso ,felin1 author of a work published in ,barcelona1 quoted by ,m4 ,aubry1 writes that1 edgings of all sorts of gold1 silver1 silk thread and aloe fibres are made at ,barcelona with greater perfection than in ,flanders4 ,in the sixteenth century1 ,flanders was part of the ,spanish dominions1 and from ,flanders ,spain imported artistic goods1 linen and lace included4 ,mr4 ,a4 ,s4 ,cole concludes from this that the ,barcelona lace-making was more or less an imitation of that which had previously existed in ,spanish ,flanders4 #ib;,apart from this1 the gold and silver lace of ,cyprus1 ,venice1 ,lucca and ,genoa preceded that from ,flanders1 and it appears that ,spain was later in the field of artistic lace-making than either ,italy1 ,flanders or ,france4 ,even the celebrity of the gold point d',espagne is probably due more to the use of gold lace by ,spanish grandees1#bfg than to the production in ,spain of gold lace4 ,the name point d',espagne was1 ,i think1 a commercial one1 given to gold lace by ,french makers4#bfh ,dominique de ,sera1 in his ,livre de ,lingerie1 published in #aehd1 especially mentions that many of the patterns of point coupp and passement given were collected by him during his travels in ,spain2 and in this he is probably correct1 for as early as #aefb1 in the ,great ,wardrobe ,account of ,queen ,elizabeth1 we have noted down sixteen yards of black ,spanish laquei 7lace7 for ruffs1 price #es4 ,the early pattern-books contain designs to be worked in gold and silver1#bfi a manufacture said to have been carried on chiefly by the ,jews1#bgj as indeed it is in many parts of ,europe at the present time2 an idea which strengthens on finding that two years after the expulsion of that persecuted tribe from the country1 in #adib1 the most ,catholic kings found it necessary to pass a law prohibiting the importation of gold lace from ,lucca and ,florence1 except such as was necessary for ecclesiastical purposes4 ,mrs4 ,palliser was of opinion that thread lace was manufactured in ,spain at this epoch1 for1 in the cathedral of ,granada is preserved a lace alb presented to the church by ,ferdinand and ,isabella1 one of the few relics of ecclesiastical grandeur still extant in the country4 ,the late ,cardinal ,wiseman stated to ,mrs4 ,palliser that he had himself officiated in this vestment1 which was valued at #aj1jjj #ic;crowns4 ,but the following passage from ,seor ,riano greatly affects the value of what would otherwise be a fact of importance adduced by ,mrs4 ,palliser4 ,notwithstanding the opinion of so competent an authority as ,mrs4 ,palliser1 ,i doubt the statement1 finding no evidence to support it1 that thread lace of a very fine or artistic kind was ever made in ,spain1 or exported as an article of commerce during early times4 ,the lace alb which ,mrs4 ,palliser mentions to prove this as existing at ,granada1 a gift of ,ferdinand and ,isabella in the fifteenth century1 is ,flemish lace of the seventeenth4#bga ,the sumptuous ,spanish point1 the white thread heavy arabesque lace1 was an ,italian production originally4 ,it was imported for the ,spanish churches and then imitated in the convents by the nuns1 but was little known to the commercial world of ,europe until the dissolution of the ,spanish monasteries#bgb in #ahcj1 when the most splendid specimens of nun's work came suddenly into the market2 not only the heavy lace generally designated as ,spanish point1 but pieces of the very finest description 7like point de ,venise71 so exquisite as to have been the work only of those whose time was not money1 and whose devotion to the ,church and to their favourite saints rendered this work a labour of love1 when in plying their needles they called to mind its destination4 ,among the illustrations are some photographs received from ,rome of some curious relics of old ,spanish conventual work1 parchment patterns with the lace in progress4 ,they were found in the ,convent of ,jes ,bambino1 and belonged to some ,spanish nuns who1 in bygone ages1 taught the art to the novices4 ,none of the present inmates can give further information respecting them4 ,the work1 like all point1 was executed in separate pieces given out to the different nuns and then joined together by a more skilful hand4 ,in ,fig4 #dd we see the pattern traced out by two threads fixed in their places by small stitches made at intervals by a needle and aloe#bgc thread working from underneath4 ,the rseau ground is alone worked in4 ,we see the thread left as by ,sister ,felice ,vittoria when she last plied her task4 #id;,fig4 #de has the pearled ground1 the pattern traced as in the other4 ,loops of a coarser thread are placed at the corners1 either to fasten the parchment to a light frame1 like a schoolboy's slate1 or to attach it to a cushion4 ,in ,fig4 #df the pattern is just worked4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dd4 ,,unfinished ,,work ,,of ,a ,,spanish ,,nun4 ,,plate ,,xxix4 ,illustration3 ,,spanish4 ,,modern ,,thread ,,bobbin ,,lace ,,made ,,at ,,almagro4--,slightly reduced4 ,,plate ,,xxx4 ,illustration3 ,,spanish1 ,,blonde4 ,,white ,,silk ,,darning ,,on ,,machine ,,net4--,nineteenth century4 ,much reduced4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden from private collections4 ,to face page #id4 #ie;,a possible reference to lace is found in ,father ,fr4 ,marcos ,antonio de ,campos1#bgd in his book1 ,microscosmia y gobierno ,universal del ,hombre ,crestiano1 when he writes1 ,i will not be silent1 and fail to mention the time lost these last years in the manufacture of cadenetas1 a work of thread combined with gold and silver2 this extravagance and excess reached such a point that hundreds and thousands of ducats were spent in this work1 in which1 besides destroying the eyesight1 wasting away the lives1 and rendering consumptive the women who worked it1 and preventing them from spending their time with more advantage to their souls1 a few ounces of thread and years of time were wasted with so unsatisfactory a result4 ,i ask myself1 after the fancy has passed away1 will the lady or gentleman find that the chemises that cost them fifty ducats1 or the basquina 7petticoats7 that cost them three hundred1 are worth half their price8 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #de4 ,,unfinished ,,work ,,of ,a ,,spanish ,,nun4 ,the most important of ,spanish ordinances#bge relating to ,spanish art and industry are those which appeared in the #if;fifteenth and sixteenth centuries in ,toleda and ,seville1 both remarkable centres for all kinds of artistic productions4 ,in neither of these1 nor in the sixteenth and seventeenth century ordinances relating to ,granada--another art-centre--is there any mention of lace4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #df4 ,,unfinished ,,work ,,of ,a ,,spanish ,,nun4 ,in the laws which were passed by ,ferdinand and ,isabella at the end of the fifteenth and beginning of the sixteenth centuries1 no mention is made of lace1 though numerous #ig;details of costumes are named4 ,it will be seen from these remarks on ,spanish lace that we give to ,italy the credit of producing the artistic and valuable point lace1 which unexpectedly came out of ,spain after the dissolution of the monasteries4 ,the ordinance of ,philip ,,iii1 against the wearing of lace1 dated #afbc1 which enjoined simples rabats1 sans aucune invention de point coupp ou passement for the men1 with fraises and manchettes in like trim for the ladies1 both too without starch1#bgf and which extended to gold and silver lace1 was suspended during the matrimonial visit of ,prince ,charles2#bgg indeed1 the ,queen of ,spain herself sent him1 on his arrival at ,madrid1 ten trunks of richly-laced linen4 ,the ,prince had travelled incognito1 and was supposed to be ill-provided4 ,whether the surmises of her ,majesty were correct1 we cannot presume to affirm2 we only know that1 on the occasion of the ,spanish voyage1 a charge of two dozen and a half laced shirts1 at twelve shillings each1 for the ,prince's eight footmen1 appears in the wardrobe accounts4#bgh ,the best account of ,spanish manners of the seventeenth century will be found in the already-mentioned ,letters of a ,lady's ,travels in ,spain4 ,under the vertingale of black taffety1 she writes1 they wear a dozen or more petticoats1 one finer than the other1 of rich stuffs trimmed with lace of gold and silver1 to the girdle4 ,they wear at all times a white garment called sabenqua2 it is made of the finest ,english lace1 and four ells in compass4 ,i have seen some worth five or six hundred crowns2444 so great is their vanity1 they would rather have one of these lace sabenquas than a dozen coarse ones2#bgi and either lie in bed till it is washed1 or dress themselves without any1 which they frequently enough do4 ,a number of portraits exist in the ,spanish galleries1 #ih;especially by ,velasquez and ,carrno1 in which these extravagant costumes are fully portrayed1 but in very few ,spanish portraits of the seventeenth century does thread lace of the kind known to us as point d',espagne1 or de ,venise ever appear4 ,describing her visit to the ,princess of ,monteleon1 the author continues3 ,her bed is of gold and green damask1 lined with silver brocade1 and trimmed with point de ,spain4#bhj ,her sheets were laced round with an ,english lace1 half an ell deep4 ,the young ,princess bade her maids bring in her wedding clothes4 ,they brought in thirty silver baskets1 so heavy1 four women could carry only one basket2 the linen and lace were not inferior to the rest4 ,the writer continues to enumerate the garters1 mantle1 and even the curtains of the ,princess's carriage1 as trimmed with fine ,english thread1 black and bone lace4#bha ,judging from this account1 ,spain at that period received her dentelles d',angleterre from the ,low ,countries4 ,spain was early celebrated for its silk1#bhb which with its coloured embroidered laces1 and its gold and silver points1 have always enjoyed a certain reputation4 ,of the latter1 during the seventeenth century1 we have constant mention in the wardrobe accounts and books of fashion of the ,french court4 ,the description of the celebrated gold bed at ,versailles1 the interior lacings of the carriages1 the velvet and brocade coats and dresses1 chamarrs de point d',espagne1 the laces of gold and coloured silk1 would alone fill a volume to themselves4#bhc #ii,narciso ,felin1 writing in the seventeenth century1#bhd says that at that time edgings of all sorts of gold1#bhe silver1 silk1 thread1 and aloe1 are made there with greater perfection than in ,flanders4 ,campany1 another old author1 carries the number of lace-makers to #ab1jjj4 ,the ,spaniards are said1 nevertheless1 in #afcd1 to have derived a great part of their laces from the le de ,france1 while the ,french1 on their part1 preferred those of ,flanders4#bhf ,that the lace import was considered excessive is evident by the tariff of #affg2 the import duty of twenty-five reals per pound on lace was augmented to two hundred and fifty reals4 ,much point was introduced into ,spain at this time by way of ,antwerp to ,cadiz1 under the name of puntos de mosquito e de transillas4 ,madame des ,ursins1 #agjg1 in a letter to ,madame de ,maintenon1 ordering the layette of the ,queen of ,spain from ,paris1 writes3 ,if ,i were not afraid of offending those concerned in the purchase1 in my avarice for the ,king of ,spain's money1 ,i would beg them to send a low-priced lace for the linen4 #ajj,this gold point d',espagne was much fabricated for home consumption4 ,the oldest banner of the ,inquisition--that of ,valladolid--is described as bordered with real point d',espagne1 of a curious ,gothic 7geometric7 design4 ,at the ,auto-da-f1 the grandees of ,spain and officers of the ,holy ,office marched attired in cloaks1 with black and white crosses1 edged with this gold lace4 ,silver point d',espagne was also worn on the uniform of the ,maestranza1 a body of nobility formed into an order of chivalry at ,seville1 ,ronda1 ,valencia and ,granada4 ,even the saints were rigged out1 especially ,st4 ,anthony1 at ,valencia1 whose laced costume1 periwig and ruffles are described as glorious4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dg4 ,,old ,,spanish ,,pillow-,,lace4 ,point d',espagne was likewise made in ,france1 introduced by one ,simon ,chtelain1 a ,huguenot1 about #aeif1 in return for which good services he received more protection than his advanced opinions warranted4 ,colbert1 becoming minister in #affb1 guaranteed to ,simon his safety--a boon already refused to many by the intolerant spirit of the times4 ,he died in #afge1 having amassed a large fortune4#bhg ,that the fabric prospered1 the following entry in the wardrobe accounts of the ,duke de ,penthivre1 #agcb1 gives proof3#bhh ,un bord de ,point d',espagne d'or de ,paris1 fonds de rseau4 ,france1 writes ,anderson1 exports much lace into ,spain4 ,,plate ,,xxxi4 ,illustration3 ,,portrait ,,of ,,the ,,duchesse ,,de ,,montpensier1 ,,infanta ,,of ,,spain1 ,,showing ,,mantilla4 ,middle of nineteenth century4 ,m4 de ,versailles4 ,to face page #ajj4 #aja,the sumptuary law of #agbc has taken away1 writes the author of two thick books on ,spanish commerce1 all pretence for importing all sorts of point and lace of white and black silk which are not the manufactures of our kingdom4 ,the ,spaniards acted on ,lord ,verulam's policy--that foreign superfluities should be prohibited#bhi--;for by so doing you either banish them or gain the manufacture4 ,but towards the middle of the eighteenth century there are notices of constant seizures of vessels bound from ,st4 ,malo to ,cadiz1 freighted with gold and silver lace4 ,the ,eagle1 ,french vessel1 taken by ,captain ,carr1 in #agde1 bore cases to the value of #aej1jjj4bij ,in #aghi we also read that the exports of lace from the port of ,marseilles alone to ,cadiz exceeded #ejj1jjj1bia and the author of the ,apendice a la ,educacion ,popular#bib states that all the five qualities 7of lace7 come from foreign lands1 and the greater varieties of coarser ones4 ,gold and silver lace were made at ,barcelona1 ,talavera de la ,reyna1 ,valencia and ,seville4 ,in #ahjh that of ,seville was flourishing4 ,the gold is badly prepared1 having a red cast4 ,the manufacture of blonde is almost entirely confined to ,catalonia1 where it is made in many of the villages along the sea-coast1 and especially in the city of ,barcelona4 ,in #ahji it gave employment to #ab1jjj persons1 a number which in #ahfi was augmented to #cd1jjj4 ,there are no large manufactories1 and the trade is in the hands of women and children1 who make it on their own account1 and as they please4#bic ,swinburne1 who visited ,spain in #agge1 writes3 ,the women of the hamlets were busy with their bobbins making black lace1 some of which1 of the coarser kind1 is spun out of the leaf of the aloe4 ,it is curious1 but of little use1 for it grows mucilaginous with washing4 ,he adds3 ,at ,barcelona there is a great trade in thread lace4#bid ,larruga1 in his #ajb,memorias1#bie mentions a manufacture of gold and silver lace which had been set up lately in ,madrid1 and in another place he#bif mentions lace made at ,la ,mancha1#big where the industry of lace has existed at ,almagro from time immemorial4 ,don ,manuel ,fernandez and ,donna ,rita ,lambert1 his wife1 natives of ,madrid1 established in this town in #agff a manufacture of silk and thread lace4 ,this industry also existed at ,granatula1 ,manzanares and other villages in ,la ,mancha4 ,at ,zamora lace and blonde were made in private houses4 ,in ,sempere ,historia del ,lujo#bih we find that in the ordinance issued in #agbc the introduction of every sort of edgings or foreign laces was prohibited2 the only kinds allowed were those made in the country4 ,cabanillas writes#bii that at ,novelda a third part of the inhabitants made lace1 and that more than #b1jjj among women and children worked at this industry1 and the natives themselves hawked their wares about the country4#cjj ,the laces of ,new ,castile were exported to ,america1 to which colonies1 in #agbc1 the sumptuary laws were extended1 as more necessary than in ,spain1 many families having been ruined1 says ,ustariz1 by the great quantities of fine lace and gold stuffs they purchased of foreign manufacture1 by which means ,spanish ,america is drained of many millions of dollars4#cja ,a ,spanish lace-maker does not earn on an average two reals 7#e;d47 a day4#cjb ,the national mantilla is1 of course1 the principal piece manufactured4 ,of the three kinds which1 de rigueur1 form the toilette of the ,spanish lady1 the first is composed of white blonde1 a most unbecoming contrast to their sallow1 olive complexion2 this is only used on state occasions--birthdays1 bull-fights1 and ,easter ,mondays4 ,the second is black #ajc;blonde1 trimmed with a deep lace4 ,the third1 mantilla de tiro1 for ordinary wear1 is made of black silk1 trimmed with velvet4 ,a ,spanish woman's mantilla is held sacred by law1 and cannot be seized for debt4#cjc ,the silk employed for the lace is of a superior quality4 ,near ,barcelona is a silk-spinning manufactory1 whose products are specially used for the blondes of the country4 ,spanish silk laces do not equal in workmanship those of ,bayeux and ,chantilly1 either in the firmness of the ground or regularity of the pattern4 ,the annual produce of this industry scarcely amounts to #hj1jjj4cjd ,specimens of ,barcelona white lace have been forwarded to us from ,spain1 bearing the dates of #ahaj1 #ahbj1 #ahcj and #ahdj4 ,some have much resemblance to the fabric of ,lille--clear hexagonal ground1 with the pattern worked in one coarse thread2 others are of a double ground1 the designs flowers1 bearing evidence of a ,flemish origin4#cje ,spain sent to the ,international ,exhibitions1 together with her black and white mantillas1 fanciful laces gaily embroidered in coloured silks and gold thread--an ancient fabric lately revived1 but constantly mentioned in the inventories of the ,french ,court of the seventeenth century1 and also by the lady whose letters we have already quoted4 ,when describing a visit to ,donna ,teresa de ,toledo1 who received her in bed1 she writes3 ,she had several little pillows tied with ribbons and trimmed with broad fine lace4 ,she had 'lasses' all of flowers of point de ,spain in silk and gold1 which looked very pretty4#cjf ,the finest specimen of ,spanish work exhibited in #ahfb #ajdwas a mantilla of white blonde1 the ground a light guipure1 the pattern1 wreaths of flowers supported by ,cupids4 ,in the official report on ,lace and ,embroidery at the ,international ,exhibition of that year1 we read that the manufacture of black and white ,spanish lace shows considerable progress since #ahea1 both in respect of design and fabrication4 ,the black mantillas vary in value from #d to #ej1 and upwards of #bj1jjj persons are said to be employed in their manufacture4 ,before concluding our account of ,spanish lace1 we must allude to the dentelles de ,moresse1 supposed by ,m4 ,francisque ,michel#cjg to be of ,iberian origin1 fabricated by the descendants of the ,moors who remained in ,spain and embraced ,christianity4 ,these points are named in the above-mentioned ,rvolte des ,passemens1 where the author thus announces their arrival at the fair of ,st4 ,germain3-- ,il en vint que1 le plus souvent4 ,on disoit venir du ,levant2 ,il en vint des bords de l',ibre4 ,il en vint d'arriver n'agueres ,des pays septentrionaux4 ,what these points were it would be difficult to state4 ,in the inventory of ,henry ,,viii4 is marked down1 a purle of morisco work4 ,one of the pattern-books gives on its title-page-- ,dantique et ,roboesque ,en comprenant aussi ,moresque4 ,a second speaks of ,moreschi et arabesche4#cjh ,a third is entitled1 ,un livre de moresque4#cji ,a fourth1 ,un livre de feuillages entrelatz et ouvrages moresques4#caj ,all we can say on the subject is1 that the making cloths of chequered lace formed for a time the favourite employment of ,moorish maidens1 and they are still to be purchased1 yellow with age1 in the ,african cities of ,tangier and ,tetuan4 ,they may be distinguished from those worked by ,christian fingers from the absence of all animals in the pattern1 the representation of living creatures1 either in painting1 sculpture1 or embroidery1 being strictly forbidden by ,mahommedan law4 ,,plate ,,xxxii4 ,illustration3 ,,jewish4--,made in ,syria4 ,the pattern is only modern ,torchon1 but the knotting stitch is their peculiar tradition4 ,same size4 ,,plate ,,xxxiii4 ,illustration3 ,,spanish4--,the upper one is a copy of ,italian lace clumsily made4 ,the lower is probably a dentelle de ,moresse4 ,widths about #c in4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden from ,salviati ,co4's ,collection4 ,to face page #ajd4 #aje,,portugal4 ,point lace was held in high estimation in ,portugal4 ,there was no regular manufacture2 it formed the amusement of the nuns and a few women who worked at their own houses4 ,the sumptuary law of #agdi put an end to all luxury among the laity4 ,even those who exposed such wares as laces in the streets were ordered to quit the town4#caa ,in #agbi1cab when ,barbara1 sister of ,joseph1 ,king of ,portugal1 at seventeen years of age1 married ,ferdinand1 ,prince of ,spain1 before quitting ,lisbon1 she repaired to the church of the ,madre de ,dios1 on the ,tagus1 and there solemnly offered to the ,virgin the jewels and a dress of the richest ,portuguese point she had worn on the day of her espousals4 ,this lace is described as most magnificent1 and was for near a century exhibited under a glass case to admiring eyes1 till1 at the ,french occupation of the ,peninsula1 the ,duchesse d',abrants1 or one of the ,imperial generals1 is supposed to have made off with it4#cac ,when ,lisbon arose from her ashes after the terrible earthquake of #agee1 the ,marquis de ,pombal founded large manufactures of lace1 which were carried on under his auspices4 ,wraxall1 in his ,memoirs1 mentions having visited them4 ,the fine points in relief of ,italy and ,spain were the result of such time and labour as to render them too costly for moderate means4 ,hence they were extensively counterfeited4 ,the principal scroll of the pattern was formed by means of tape or linen cut out and sewn on1 and the reliefs were produced by cords fixed and overcast after the work was finished1 thus substituting linen and cords for parts of #ajfthe needlework4 ,these counterfeit points were in ,france the occasion in #affi of an ordinance4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dh4 ,,bobbin-,,lace4--7,madeira47 ,the modern laces of ,portugal and ,madeira closely resemble those of ,spain2 the wider for flounces are of silk3 much narrow lace is made after the fashion of ,mechlin4 ,both ,spain and ,portugal enjoy a certain reputation for their imitation white ,chantilly lace4 ,a considerable quantity of coarse white lace1 very effective in pattern1 was formerly made in ,lisbon and the environs2#cad this was chiefly exported1 vi ,cadiz1 to ,south ,america4 ,both black and white are #ajg;extensively made in the peninsula of ,peniche1 north of ,lisbon 7,estremadura ,province71 and employ the whole female population4 ,children at four years of age are sent to the lace school1 and are seated at almofadas 7pillows7 proportioned to their height1 on which they soon learn to manage the bobbins1 sometimes sixty dozen or more1 with great dexterity4#cae ,the nuns of ,odivales were1 till the dissolution of the monasteries1 famed for their lace fabricated of the fibres of the aloe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #di4 ,,bobbin-,,lace4--7,brazil47 ,pillow-lace was made at ,madeira at the beginning of the nineteenth century4 ,the coarse kind1 a species of dentelle torchon1 served for trimming pillow-cases and sheets--seaming lace1 as it was called 7,fig4 #di74 ,sometimes the threads of the linen were drawn out after the manner of cut-work2 but the manufacture had entirely ceased until #ahej 7circ471 when it was re-established by ,mrs4 ,bayman4#caf #ajh;,brazil makes a coarse narrow pillow-lace for home consumption4 ,the ,republics of ,central and ,south ,america show indications of lace-making1 consisting chiefly of darned netting and drawn-work1 the general characteristic of the lace of these countries4 ,the lace-bordered handkerchiefs of ,brazil1 and the productions of ,venezuela1 with the borders of the linen trousers of the guachos1 and the ,creva lace of the blacks of the ,province of ,minas ,geraes1 are the finest specimens of drawn-work4 ,the lace of ,chili is of the old lozenge pattern1 and men also appear to be employed on the work4 ,in ,paraguay there are two sorts of work--,nanduti or toile d'arraigne1 made in silk or thread by a needle on a cardboard pattern by the copper-coloured natives as an industry2 also embroidery and drawn thread-work on linen1 of which there are specimens in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum--all traditions of the ,european missionaries and traders who first colonised the country4 ,,plate ,,xxxiv4 ,illustration3 ,,spanish4--,pillow made nineteenth century4 ,rseau of two threads twisted and crossed4 ,slightly reduced4 ,,plate ,,xxxv ,illustration3 ,,paraguay4 ,,nanduti4--,end of nineteenth century4 ,reduced rather over half4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden from private collections4 ,to face page #ajh4 #aji;,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,flanders4 ,for lace1 let ,flanders bear away the belle4 --,sir ,c4 ,hanbury ,williams4 ,in ,french embroidery and in ,flanders lace ,i'll spend the income of a treasurer's place4 --,the ,man of ,taste1 ,rev4 ,w4 ,bramstone4 ,flanders and ,italy together dispute the invention of lace4 ,in many towns of the ,low ,countries are pictures of the fifteenth century1 in which are portrayed personages adorned with lace1#cag and ,baron ,reiffenberg1 a ,belgian writer1 asserts that lace cornettes1 or caps1 were worn in that country as early as the fourteenth century4 ,as evidence for the early origin of pillow-lace in the ,low ,countries1 ,baron ,reiffenberg mentions an altar-piece1 attributed to ,quentin ,matsys 7in a side chapel of the choir of ,st4 ,peter's1 at ,louvain71 in which a girl is represented making lace with bobbins on a pillow with a drawer1 similar to that now in use4#cah ,there exists a series of engravings after ,martin de ,vos 7#aehj-he71 giving the occupations of the seven ages of life3 in the third1#cai assigned to ge mr1 is seen a girl1 sitting with a pillow on her knees1 making lace 7,fig4 #ej74 ,the occupation must have been then common1 or the artist would scarcely have chosen it to characterise the habits of his country4 ,of the two paintings attributed to ,matsys--that in ,st4 ,peter's1 at ,louvain1 and that in ,lierre1 only the former is now assigned to the artist4 ,both pictures are said to be of the end of the fifteenth century or beginning of the sixteenth4 #aaj;,illustration3 ,fig4 #ej4 ,,lace-,,making4--7,after ,martin de ,vos47 ,the triptych at ,louvain is reproduced and described in detail by ,van ,even in his work1 ,louvain dans le pass et dans le prsent2#cbj it consists of five panels1 the centre panel representing ,la famille de ,sainte ,anne2 but among all the figures none1 however1 appear to be engaged in making lace or1 indeed1 in any form of needlework4 ,,plate ,,xxxvi4 ,illustration3 ,,flemish4 ,,portion ,,of ,,bed ,,cover1 ,,bobbin-,,made4--,first half of seventeenth century4 ,this is said to have belonged to ,philip ,,iv4 of ,spain4 ,above the ,austrian eagle and crown is the collar of the ,golden ,fleece4 ,the workmanship is of great skill4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #aaj4 #aaa;,it has been suggested that the ,lace-maker making lace with bobbins on a pillow with a drawer 7alluded to by ,baron ,reiffenberg7 in the triptych is taken from the above-mentioned engravings by ,nicholas de ,bruyel and ,assuerus van ,londonzeel1 after the drawings of ,martin de ,vos4 ,the historian of the ,duke of ,burgundy#cba declares ,charles the ,bold to have lost his dentelles at the battle of ,granson1 #adgf2 he does not state his authority4 ,probably they were gold or silver1 for no other exist among his relics4 ,in ,vecellio's ,corona of #aeic and #aeif are two designs of geometrical lace--ponto fiamengho and ,manegetti di ponto ,fiamengo1 point de ,flandre4 ,in #afea1 ,jacob v4 ,eyck1 a ,flemish poet1 sang the praises of lace-making in ,latin verse4 ,of many arts one surpasses all2 the threads woven by the strange power of the hand1 threads which the dropping spider would in vain attempt to imitate1 and which ,pallas would confess she had never known2 and a deal more in the same style4#cbb ,the lace-manufacture of the ,netherlands1 as ,baron ,reiffenberg writes1 has a glorious past4 ,after exciting the jealousy of other ,european nations1 in the sixteenth century1 when every industrial art fled from the horrors of religious persecution1 the lace fabric alone upheld itself1 and by its prosperity saved ,flanders from utter ruin4 ,every country of ,northern ,europe1#cbc ,germany1 and ,england1 has learned the art of lace-making from ,flanders4 ,after the establishment of the ,points de ,france by ,colbert1 ,flanders was alarmed at the number of lace-makers who emigrated1 and passed an act1 dated ,brussels1 ,december #bfth1 #afih1 #aabthreatening with punishment any who should suborn her workpeople4 ,lace-making forms an abundant source of national wealth to ,belgium1 and enables the people of its superannuated cities to support themselves1 as it were1 on female industry4#cbd ,one-fourth of the whole population 7#aej1jjj women7 were said to be thus engaged1 in #ahfa4 ,but a small number assemble in the ateliers2 the majority work at home4 ,the trade now flourishes as in the most palmy days of the ,netherlands4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ea4 ,,cap ,,of ,,the ,,emperor ,,charles ,v4--7,muse de ,cluny47 ,this engraving is not accurately drawn4 ,the spaces contain birds and crosses1 and not sprigs4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eb4 ,,isabella ,,clara ,,eugenia1 ,,daughter ,,of ,,philip ,,ii41 ,,archduchess ,,of ,,austria1 ,,governess ,,of ,,the ,,netherlands4--,died #afcc4 ,to face page #aab4 #aac,lace forms a part of female education in ,belgium4 ,charles ,v4 commanded it to be taught in the schools and convents4 ,examples of the manufactures of his period may be seen in the cap said to be worn by him under his crown1 and in the contemporary portrait of his sister ,mary1 ,queen of ,hungary4 ,this cap1 long preserved in the treasury of the bishop-princes of ,basle1 has now passed into the ,muse de ,cluny 7,fig4 #ea74 ,it is of fine linen2 the imperial arms are embroidered in relief1 alternate with designs in lacis of exquisite workmanship4#cbe ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ec4 ,,mary1 ,,queen ,,of ,,hungary1 ,,governess ,,of ,,the ,,low ,,countries4 #aeeh4--7;,from her portrait1 ,muse de ,versailles47 ,queen ,mary's cuffs 7,fig4 #ec7 are of the geometric pattern of the age1 and we may presume1 of ,flanders make1 as she was ,governess of the ,low ,countries from #aecj till her death4 ,the grand-daughter of ,charles ,v41 the ,infanta ,isabella1 who brought the ,low ,countries as her dower1#cbf appears in her portraits 7,fig4 #eb7 most resplendent in lace1 and her ruff rivals in size those of our ,queen ,elizabeth1 or ,reine ,margot4 ,but to return to our subject4 ,of the lace schools there were nearly #ijj in #ahge1 either in the convents or founded by private charity4 ,at the age of five small girls commence #aadtheir apprenticeship2 by ten they earn their maintenance2 and it is a pretty sight1 an cole dentellire1 the children seated before their pillows1 twisting their bobbins with wonderful dexterity4 7,fig4 #ed47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ed4 ,a ,,belgian ,,lace ,,school4 ,in a tract of the seventeenth century entitled1 ,england's ,improvement by ,sea and ,land1 to outdo the ,dutch without ,fighting1#cbg we have an amusing account of one of these establishments4 ,joining to this spinning school is one for maids weaving bone lace1 and in all towns there are schools according to the bigness and multitude of the children4 ,i will show you how they are governed4 ,first1 there is a large room1 and in the middle thereof a little box like a pulpit4 ,second1 there are benches built about the room as they are in our playhouses4 ,and in the box in the middle of the room the grand mistress1 with a long white wand in her hand4 ,if she observes any of them idle1 she reaches them a tap1 and if that will not do1 she rings a bell1 which1 by a little cord1 is attached to the box4 ,she points out the offender1 and she is taken into another room and chastised4 ,and ,i believe this way of ordering the young women in ,germany 7,flanders7 is one great cause that the ,german women have so little twit-twat1#cbh and ,i am sure it will be as well were it so in ,england4 ,there the children emulate the father--here they beggar him4 ,child1 he winds up1 ,i charge you tell this to thy wyfe in bed1 and it may be that she1 understanding the benefit it will be to her and her children1 will turn ,dutchwoman and endeavour to save moneys4 ,notwithstanding this good advice1 in #agfh ,england received from ,flanders lace-work #bej1jjj to her disadvantage1 as compared to her exports4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ee4 ,,old ,,flemish ,,bobbin ,,lace4 ,to face page #aad4 #aae;,illustration3 ,fig4 #ef4 ,,old ,,flemish 7,trolle ,kant74 ,the piece of lace from which this woodcut is taken has five or six different designs all joined together2 probably patterns sent round for orders4 ,the old ,flemish laces are of great beauty1 some of varied grounds4 ,fig4 #ef represents a description of lace called in the country ,trolle kant1 a name which has been transferred to our own lace counties1 where lace of a peculiar #aafmake is styled ,trolly1 with a heavy cordonnet which is called gimp or ,trolly4 ,kant in ,flemish is lace4 ,at one period much lace was smuggled into ,france from ,belgium by means of dogs trained for the purpose4 ,a dog was caressed and petted at home1 fed on the fat of the land1 then after a season sent across the frontier1 where he was tied up1 half-starved and ill-treated4 ,the skin of a bigger dog was then fitted to his body1 and the intervening space filled with lace4 ,the dog was then allowed to escape and make his way home1 where he was kindly welcomed with his contraband charge4 ,these journeys were repeated till the ,french ,custom ,house1 getting scent1 by degrees put an end to the traffic4 ,between #ahbj and #ahcf #dj1bgh dogs were destroyed1 a reward of three francs being given for each4#cbi ,according to some authorities the earliest lace made in ,flanders was of the kind known as ,pillow ,guipure4 ,the pattern is made as of tape1 in flowing ,renaissance style1 sometimes connected by brides1 and sometimes altogether without brides1 when the points of the pattern touch each other4 ,in the specimens of this type of lace in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum there is apparently little in the laces by which the country of their origin may be identified4 ,sometimes they have been considered ,french1 sometimes ,flemish1 and sometimes ,italian4 ,see the specimens of tape-lace in the ,catalogue of the lace in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum1 p4 #di1 by ,a4 ,s4 ,cole4 7,plate ,,xxxviii47 ,,brussels 7,,brabant74 ,more subtile web ,arachne cannot spin4--,spenser4 ,from ,lisle ,i came to ,brussels1 where most of the fine laces are made you see worn in ,england4--,lord ,chesterfield1 #agda4 ,at what period the manufacture of ,brussels lace commenced we are ignorant2 but1 judging from the earlier patterns1 it may be placed at the beginning of the sixteenth century4 ,the ancient churches of ,brabant possess1 it is said1 many precious specimens1 the gifts of munificent princes who have at all periods shown a predilection for ,brussels lace1 and in every way promoted its manufacture4 ,in usage it is termed ,point d',angleterre1 an error explained to us by history4 ,,plate ,,xxxvii4 ,illustration3 ,,brussels4 ,,point ,d',,angleterre ,,brides4 ,,crown ,,of ,a ,,cap4--,last half of seventeenth century4 ,the property of ,mr4 ,arthur ,blackborne4 ,,plate ,,xxxviii4 ,illustration3 ,,flemish4 ,,tape ,,lace1 ,,bobbin-,,made4--,seventeenth century4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #aaf4 #aag;,in #affb the ,english ,parliament1 alarmed at the sums of money expended on foreign point1 and desirous to protect the ,english bone-lace manufacture1 passed an ,act prohibiting the importation of all foreign lace4 ,the ,english lace-merchants1 at a loss how to supply the ,brussels point required at the court of ,charles ,,ii41 invited ,flemish lace-makers to settle in ,england and there establish the manufacture4 ,the scheme1 however1 was unsuccessful4 ,england did not produce the necessary flax1 and the lace made was of an inferior quality4 ,the merchants therefore adopted a more simple expedient4 ,possessed of large capital1 they bought up the choicest laces of the ,brussels market1 and then smuggling them over to ,england1 sold them under the name of point d',angleterre1 or ,english ,point4#ccj ,this fact is1 curiously enough1 corroborated in a second memorandum given by the ,venetian ambassador to the ,english ,court in #afie1 already mentioned by an informant in ,london1 who states that ,venetian point is no longer in fashion1 but that called ,english point1 which1 you know1 is not made here1 but in ,flanders1 and only bears the name of ,english to distinguish it from the others4 ,questo chiamato punto d',inghilterra1 si sappia che non si fa qui1 ma in ,fiandra1 et porta solamente questo nome d',inghilterra per distintione dagli altri4 ,the account of the seizure made by the ,marquis de ,nesmond of a vessel laden with ,flanders lace1 bound for ,england1 in #afghcca will afford some idea of the extent to which this smuggling was carried on4 ,the cargo comprised #gdd1iec ells of lace1 without enumerating handkerchiefs1 collars1 fichus1 aprons1 petticoats1 fans1 gloves1 etc41 all of the same material4 ,from this period point de ,bruxelles became more and more unknown1 and was at last effaced by point d',angleterre1#ccb a name it still retains4#ccc ,on consulting1 however1 the ,english ,royal ,inventories of #aahthe time1 we find no mention of ,english point4 ,in ,france1 on the other hand1 the fashion books of the day#ccd commend to the notice of the reader1 ,corsets chamarrs de point d',angleterre1 with vests1 gloves1 and cravats trimmed with the same material4 ,among the effects of ,madame de ,simiane1 dated #afha1 were many articles of ,english point2#cce and ,monseigneur the ,archbishop of ,bourges1 who died some few years later1 had two cambric toilettes trimmed with the same4#ccf ,the finest ,brussels lace can only be made in the city itself4 ,antwerp1 ,ghent1 and other localities have in vain tried to compete with the capital4 ,the little town of ,binche1 long of lace-making celebrity1 has been the most successful4 ,binche1 however1 now only makes pillow flowers 7point plat71 and those of an inferior quality4 ,when1 in #agef1 ,mrs4 ,calderwood visited the ,bguinage at ,brussels1 she wrote to a friend describing the lace-making4 ,a part of their work is grounding lace2 the manufacture is very curious4 ,one person works the flowers4 ,they are all sold separate1 and you will see a very pretty sprig1 for which the worker only gets twelve sous4 ,the masters who have all these people employed give them the thread to make them2 this they do according to a pattern1 and give them out to be grounded2 after this they give them to a third hand1 who 'hearts' all the flowers with the open work4 ,that is what makes this lace so much dearer than the ,mechlin1 which is wrought all at once4#ccg ,the thread used in ,brussels lace is of extraordinary fineness4 ,it is made of flax grown in ,brabant1 at ,hal and ,rebecq-,rognon4#cch ,the finest quality is spun in dark underground rooms1 for contact with the dry air causes the thread to break1 so fine is it as almost to escape the sight4 ,the feel of the thread as it passes through the fingers is the surest guide4 ,the thread-spinner closely examines every inch drawn from her distaff1 and when any inequality occurs stops her wheel to repair the mischief4 ,every artificial help is given to the eye4 ,a background of dark paper is placed to throw out the thread1 and the room so arranged as to admit one single ray of light upon the work4 ,the life of a ,flemish thread-spinner is unhealthy1 and her work requires the greatest skill2 her wages are therefore proportionably high4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eg4 ,,brussels ,,needle-,,point4 ,to face page #aah4 #aai;,it is the fineness of the thread which renders the real ,brussels ground 7vrai rseau1 called in ,flanders1 droschel7 so costly4#cci ,the difficulty of procuring this fine thread at any cost prevented the art being established in other countries4 ,we all know how1 during the last fifty years of the bygone century1 a mania existed in the ,united ,kingdom for improving all sorts of manufactures4 ,the ,anti-,gallican ,society gave prizes in ,london2 ,dublin and ,edinburgh vied with their sister capital in patriotism4 ,every man would establish something to keep our native gold from crossing the water4 ,foreign travellers had their eyes open1 and ,lord ,garden1 a ,scotch ,lord of ,session1 who visited ,brussels in #aghg1 thus writes to a countryman on the subject3 ,this day ,i bought you ruffles and some beautiful ,brussels lace1 the most light and costly of all manufactures4 ,i had entertained1 as ,i now suspect1 a vain ambition to attempt the introduction of it into my humble parish in ,scotland1 but on inquiry ,i was discouraged4 ,the thread is of so exquisite a fineness they cannot make it in this country4 ,it is brought from ,cambrai and ,valenciennes in ,french ,flanders1 and five or six different artists are employed to form the nice part of this fabric1 so that it is a complicated #abj;art which cannot be transplanted without a passion as strong as mine for manufactures1 and a purse much stronger4 ,at ,brussels1 from one pound of flax alone they can manufacture to the value of #gjj sterling4 ,there were two kinds of ground used in ,brussels lace1 the bride and the rseau4 ,the bride was first employed1 but1 even a century back1#cdj had been discontinued1 and was then only made to order4 ,nine ells of ,angleterre bride appear in the bills of ,madame du ,barry4#cda ,the lace so made was generally of most exquisite workmanship1 as many magnificent specimens of bas d'aube1#cdb now converted into flounces1 attest4 ,sometimes bride and rseau were mixed4#cdc ,in the inventories the description of ground is always minutely specified4#cdd 7,see ,plates ,,xxxvii41 ,,xlvii41 ,,xlviii41 ,,xlix41 ,,li47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eh4 ,,brussels ,,needle-,,point4 ,to face page #abj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eh;,a4 ,,brussels4 ,,point ,l',,aiguille4--,formerly belonged to ,h4,m4 ,queen ,charlotte4 ,to face page #abj4 #aba,the rseau was made in two ways1#cde by hand 7 l'aiguille71 and on the pillow 7au fuseau74 ,the needleground is worked from one flower to another1 as in ,fig4 #dd4 ,the pillow is made in small strips of an inch in width1 and from seven to forty-five inches long1 joined together by a stitch long known to the lace-makers of ,brussels and ,bayeux only1#cdf called point de raccroc--in ,english1 fine joining--and consisting of a fresh stitch formed with a needle between the two pieces to be united4 ,it requires the greatest nicety to join the segments of shawls and other large pieces4 ,since machine-made net has come into use the vrai rseau is rarely made1 save for royal trousseaux 7,figs4 #eg and #eh74 ,there are two kinds of flowers3 those made with the needle are called point l'aiguille2 those on the pillow1 point plat4#cdg ,the best flowers are made in ,brussels itself1 where they have attained a perfection in the relief 7point brod7 unequalled by those made in the surrounding villages and in ,hainault4 ,the last have one great fault4 ,coming soiled from the hands of the lace-makers1 they have a reddish-yellow cast4 ,in order to obviate this evil the workwoman1 previous to sewing the flowers on the ground1 places them in a packet of white lead and beats them with the hand1 an operation injurious to the health of the lace-cleaner4 ,it also causes the lace to turn black when laid in trunks or wardrobes in contact with flannel or other woollen tissues bleached with sulphur1 which discolours the white lead4 ,bottles containing scent1 the sea air1 or a heated room1 will produce the same disagreeable change1 and the colour is with difficulty restored4 ,this custom of powdering yellow lace is of old date4 ,we read in #aghbcdh3 ,on tolre en mme temps les dentelles jaunes et fort sales1 poudrez-les blanc pour cacher leur vetust1 dut la fraude parotre1 n'importe1 vous avez des dentelles vous tes bien dispens de la propret mais non du luxe4 ,mrs4 ,delany writes in #agcd3 ,your head and ruffles are being made up1 but ,brussels always look yellow2 and she was right1 for flax thread soon returns to its natural crme hue4 ,yet1 ,how curled her hair1 how clean her ,brussels lace6 exclaims the poet4#cdi ,later1 the taste for discoloured lace became general4 ,the ,isabelle or cream-coloured tint was found to be more becoming than a dazzling white1 and our coquettish grandmothers1 who prided themselves upon the colour of their point1 when not satisfied with the richness of its hue1 had their lace dipped in coffee4 #abb;,in the old laces the plat flowers were worked in together with the ground4 7,fig4 #ei47 ,application lace was unknown to our ancestors4#cej ,the making of ,brussels lace is so complicated that each process is1 as before mentioned1 assigned to a different hand1 who works only at her special department4 ,the first1 termed-- #a4 ,drocheleuse 7,flemish1 drocheles71 makes the vrai rseau4 #b4 ,dentelire 7kantwerkes71 the footing4 #c4 ,pointeuse 7needlewerkes71 the point l'aiguille flowers4 #d4 ,platteuse 7platwerkes71 makes the plat flowers4 #e4 ,fonneuse 7grondwerkes71 is charged with the open work 7jours7 in the plat4 #f4 ,jointeuse1 or attacheuse 7lashwerkes71 unites the different sections of the ground together4 #g4 ,striqueuse1 or appliqueuse 7strikes71 is charged with the sewing 7application7 of the flowers upon the ground4 ,the pattern is designed by the head of the fabric1 who1 having cut the parchment into pieces1 hands it out ready pricked4 ,the worker has no reflections to make1 no combinations to study4 ,the whole responsibility rests with the master1 who selects the ground1 chooses the thread1 and alone knows the effect to be produced by the whole4 ,the pattern of ,brussels lace has always followed the fashion of the day4 ,the most ancient is in the ,gothic style 7,gothique pur71 its architectural ornaments resembling a pattern cut out in paper4 ,this style was replaced by the flowing lines which prevailed till the end of the last century4 7,fig4 #fj47 ,in its turn succeeded the genre fleuri of the ,first ,empire1 an assemblage of flowers1 sprigs1 columns1 wreaths1 and petits sems1 such as spots1 crosses1 stars1 etc4 ,in flowers1 the palm and pyramidal forms predominated4 ,under the ,restoration the flowery style remained in fashion1 but the palms and pyramids became more rare4 ,since #ahcj great changes have taken place in the patterns1 which every year become more elegant and more artistic4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ei4 ,,old ,,brussels4 7,point d',angleterre4 ,bobbin-made1 circ4 #agej47 ,to face page #abb4 #abc,the lace industry of ,brussels is now divided into two branches1 the making of detached sprigs1 either point or pillow1 for application upon the net ground1 and the modern point l'aiguille gaze1 also called point de ,venise1 a needlework lace in which the flowers are made simultaneously with the ground1 by means of the same thread1 as in the old ,brussels4 ,it is made in small pieces1 the joining concealed by small sprigs or leaves1 after the manner of the old point1 the same lace-worker executing the whole strip from beginning to end4 ,point gaze is now brought to the highest perfection1 and the specimens in the ,paris ,exhibition of #ahfg were remarkable for the precision of the work1 the variety and richness of the jours1 and the clearness of the ground4 ,brussels point l'aiguille1 point de gaze1 is the most filmy and delicate of all point lace4 ,its forms are not accentuated by a raised outline of button-hole stitching1 as in point d',alenon and point d',argentan1 but are simply outlined by a thread4 ,the execution is more open and slight than in early lace1 and part of the toil is made is close1 part in open stitch1 to give an appearance of shading4 ,the style of the designs is naturalistic4 7,plate ,,lii47 ,point ,duchesse is a bobbin lace of fine quality1 in which the sprigs resemble ,honiton lace united by brides4 ,duchesse is a modern name4 ,the work less resembles the old ,brussels laces than the ,guipure de ,flandre1 made at ,bruges in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries1 which was much used for cravats1 being exceedingly rich and soft in effect4 ,bobbin lace is sometimes named point ,plat2 the word point in this case signifies the fine quality of the lace1 and has nothing to do with the needle-point4 ,point ,plat appliqu is the name given to ,belgian bobbin-made sprigs which are afterwards applied to machine-made net4 ,bobbin lace is not now made in ,brussels itself4 ,brussels was a favoured lace at the court of the ,first ,empire4#cea ,when ,napoleon and the ,empress ,marie ,louise made their first public entry into the ,belgian capital1 they #abd;gave large orders for albs of the richest point1 destined as a present for the ,pope4 ,the city1 on its part1 offered to the ,empress a collection of its finest lace1 on vrai rseau1 of marvellous beauty2 also a curtain of ,brussels point1 emblematic of the birth of the ,king of ,rome1 with ,cupids supporting the drapery of the cradle4 ,after the battle of ,waterloo1 ,monsieur ,troyaux1 a manufacturer at ,brussels1 stopped his lace fabric1 and1 having turned it into a hospital for forty ,english soldiers1 furnished them with linen1 as well as other necessaries1 and the attendance of trained nurses4 ,his humane conduct did not go unrewarded2 he received a decoration from his sovereign1 while his shop was daily crowded with ,english ladies1 who then1 and for years after1 made a point of purchasing their laces at his establishment when passing through ,brussels4 ,monsieur ,troyaux made a large fortune and retired from business4#ceb ,,mechlin4 ,and if disputes of empire rise between ,mechlin1 the ,queen of ,lace1 and ,colberteen1 ',tis doubt1 'tis darkness6 till suspended ,fate ,assumes her nod to close the grand debate4 --,young1 ,love of ,fame4 ,now to another scene give place2 ,enter the ,folks with silk and lace1 ,fresh matter for a world of chat ,right ,indian this1 right ,macklin that4 --,swift1 ,journal of a ,modern ,lady4 ,mechlin1 the finest lace of all6 --,anderson1 ,origin of ,commerce4 ,rose3 ,pray1 what may this lace be worth a yard8 ,balance3 ,right ,mechlin1 by this light6 --,farquhar1 ,the ,recruiting ,officer4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fj4 ,,old ,,brussels4 7,point d',angleterre4 ,formerly belonging to ,queen ,charlotte47 ,to face page #abd4 #abe,mechlin is the prettiest of laces1 fine1 transparent1 and effective4 ,it is made in one piece1 on the pillow1 with various fancy stitches introduced4 ,its distinguishing feature is the cordonnet or flat silky thread which outlines the pattern1 and gives to this lace the character of embroidery 7hence it is sometimes called ,broderie de ,malines#cec72 and secondly1 the hexagonal mesh of the rseau4 ,this is made of two threads twisted twice on four sides1 and four threads plaited three times on the two other sides4 ,thus the plait is shorter and the mesh consequently smaller than that of ,brussels lace4 ,mechlin was sometimes grounded with an ornamental rseau called ,fond de neige1 or ,oeil de perdrix1 and also with the six-pointed ,fond ,chant2 but these varieties are not common4 ,the earliest ,mechlin has the points d'esprit1 and is very rare4 ,it was made at ,mechlin1 ,antwerp1 ,lierre and ,turnhout1 but the manufacture has long been on the decline4 ,in #ahcd there were but eight houses where it was fabricated1 but at a later date it appears to have partially revived4 ,there was a fine collection of ,mechlin lace in the ,paris ,exhibition of #ahfg from ,turnhout 7,prov4 ,antwerp71 and some other localities4 ,very little is now manufactured4 ,it is difficult to trace the real point de ,malines4 ,previous to #affe1 as elsewhere stated1 all ,flanders laces1 with some exceptions1 were known to the ,french commercial world as ,malines4 ,according to ,savary1 the laces of ,ypres1 ,bruges1 ,dunkirk and ,courtrai passed at ,paris under that name--hence we have in the inventories of the time1 ,malines bride1#ced as well as ,malines rzeau4#cee ,the statute of ,charles ,,ii4 having placed a bar to the introduction of ,flanders lace into ,england1 ,mechlin neither appears in the advertisements nor inventories of the time4 ,we find mention of this fabric in ,france as early as ,anne of ,austria1 who is described in the memoirs of ,marion #abf;de l',orme as wearing a veil en frizette de ,malines4#cef ,again1 the ,marchal de la ,motte1 who died in #afeg1 has1 noted in his inventory1#ceg a pair of ,mechlin ruffles4 ,regnard1 who visited ,flanders in #afha1 writes from this city3 ,the common people here1 as throughout all ,flanders1 occupy themselves in making the white lace known as ,malines1 and the ,bguinage1 the most considerable in the country1 is supported by the work of the ,bguines1 in which they excel greatly4#ceh ,when1 in #afii1 the ,english prohibition was removed1 ,mechlin lace became the grand fashion1 and continued so during the succeeding century4 ,queen ,mary anticipated the repeal by some years1 for1 in #afid1 she purchased two yards of knotted fringe for her ,mechlin ruffles1#cei which leads us to hope she had brought the lace with her from ,holland2 though1 as early as #afii1 we have advertised in the ,london ,gazette1 ,august #agth to #bast3 ,lost from ,barker's coach a deal box containing1 among other articles1 a waistcoat and ,holland shirt1 both laced with ,mecklin lace4 ,queen ,anne purchased it largely2 at least1 she paid in #agaccfj #bdg #fs4 #i;d4 for eighty-three yards1 either to one ,margaret ,jolly or one ,francis ,dobson1 ,millenario ,regali--the ,royal ,milliner1 as he styles himself4 ,george ,i4 indulges in a ,macklin cravat4#cfa ,it is impossible1 says ,savary about this time1 to imagine how much ,mechlin lace is annually purchased by ,france and ,holland1 and in ,england it has always held the highest favour4 ,of the beau of #agbg it is said3 ,right ,macklin must twist round his bosom and wrists4 ,,plate ,,xxxix4 ,illustration3 ,,mechlin4--,four specimens of seventeenth and eighteenth centuries4 ,arranged by age1 the oldest at the top4 ,the upper one is the end of a lappet1 the property of ,mr4 ,arthur ,blackborne4 ,width about #c in4 ,widths of smaller pieces1 #a in41 lower #b in4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #abf4 #abg,while ,captain ,figgins of the #fgth1 a dandy of the first water1 is described1 like the naval puppy of ,smollett in ,roderick ,random1 his hair powdered with marchal1 a cambric shirt1 his ,malines lace dyed with coffee-grounds4 ,towards #agee the fashion seems to have been on the decline in ,england4 ,all the town1 writes ,mr4 ,calderwood1 is full of convents2 ,mechlin lace is all made there2 ,i saw a great deal1 and very pretty and cheap4 ,they talk of giving up the trade1 as the ,english1 upon whom they depended1 have taken to the wearing of ,french blondes4 ,the lace merchants employ the workers and all the town with lace4 ,though they gain but twopence halfpenny daily1 it is a good worker who will finish a ,flemish yard 7#bh inches7 in a fortnight4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fa4 ,,mechlin4--7,period ,louis ,,xvi47 ,mechlin is essentially a summer lace1 not becoming in itself1 but charming when worn over colour4 ,it found great favour at the court of the ,regent1 as the inventories of the period attest4 ,much of this lace1 judging from these accounts1 was made in the style of the modern insertion1 with an edging on both sides1 campan1 and1 being light in texture1 was well adapted for the gathered trimmings1 later termed#cfb quilles1 now better known as plisss la #abhvieille4#cfc ,mechlin can never have been used as a dentelle de grande toilette2 it served for coiffures de nuit1 garnitures de corset1 ruffles and cravats4#cfd ,lady ,mary ,wortley ,montagu1 describing an admirer1 writes3 ,with eager beat his ,mechlin cravat moves-- ,he loves1 ,i whisper to myself1 he loves6 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fb4 ,,mechlin4--7,formerly belonging to ,h4 ,m4 ,queen ,charlotte47 ,it was the favourite lace of ,queen ,charlotte 7,fig4 #fb7 and of the ,princess ,amelia4 ,napoleon ,i4 was also a great admirer of this fabric1 and when he first saw the light ,gothic tracery of the cathedral spire of ,antwerp1 he exclaimed1 ,c'est comme de la dentelle de ,malines4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xl4 ,,mechlin4--,three specimens of last half of eighteenth century4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,width1 #e in4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden from ,mrs4 ,ellis' ,collection4 ,width1 #d in4 ,width1 #d in4 ,to face page #abc4 #abi;,,antwerp4 ,at ,antwerp1 bought some ruffles of our agreeable landlady1 and set out at #b o'clock for ,brussels4--,tour1 by ,g4 ,l41 #agfg4 ,before finishing our account of the laces of ,brabant1 we must touch upon the produce of ,antwerp1 which1 though little differing from that of the adjoining towns1 seems at one time to have been known in the commercial world4#cfe ,in the year #aefj we have no mention of lace among the fabrics of ,antwerp1 at that period already flourishing1 unless it be classed under the head of mercery1 fine and rare4#cff ,the cap1 however1 of an ,antwerp lady#cfg of that period is decorated with the fine lace of geometric pattern4 7,fig4 #fc47 ,as early as #afih the ,flying ,postman advertises as follows3 ,yesterday1 was dropped between the ,mitre ,tavern and the corner of ,princes-street1 five yards and better of ,antwerp lace1 pinner breadth4 ,one guinea reward4 ,according to ,savary1 much lace without ground1 dentelle sans fond1 a guipure of large flowers united by brides1 was fabricated in all the towns of ,brabant for especial exportation to the ,spanish ,indies1 where the ,gothic taste continued in favour up to a very late period4 ,these envoys #acjwere expedited first to ,cadiz1 and there disposed of4 ,in #afif1 we find in a seizure made by ,monsieur de la ,bellire1 on the high seas1 #baha pieces de dentelles grossires l',espagnole assorties4#cfh 7,plate ,,xli47 ,since the cessation of this ,spanish market1 ,antwerp lace would have disappeared from the scene had it not been for the attachment evinced by the old people for one pattern1 which has been worn on their caps from generation to generation1 generally known by the name of pot lace 7potten kant74 ,it is made in the ,bguinages of three qualities1 mostly fond double4 ,the pattern has always a vase 7,fig4 #fd71 varied according to fancy4#cfi ,antwerp now makes ,brussels lace4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fc4 ,a ,,lady ,,of ,,antwerp4--7,ob4 #aeih4 ,after ,crispin de ,passe47 ,one of the earliest pattern-books1 that printed by ,vorsterman#cgj--the title in ,english--was published at ,antwerp1 but it only contains patterns for ,spanish stitch and other embroidery--no lace4 ,there is no date affixed to the title-page1 which is ornamented with six woodcuts representing women1 and one a man1 working at frames4 ,this work is most rare2 the only copy known may be found in the ,library of the ,arsenal at ,paris4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fd4 ,,antwerp ,,pot ,,lace 7,potten ,kant74 ,to face page #acj4 #aca,turnhout1 which with ,antwerp and ,mechlin form the three divisions of the modern province of ,antwerp1 seems to have largely manufactured lace up to the present century2 as we find in #ahjc1 out of forty lace thread and lace fabrics in the province1 there were thirteen at ,antwerp1 twelve at ,turnhout1 and nine at ,malines4#cga ,turnhout now produces ,mechlin4 ,,flanders 7,,west74 ,the most important branch of the pillow-lace trade in ,belgium is the manufacture of ,valenciennes1 which1 having expired in its native city1 has now spread over ,east and ,west ,flanders4 ,the art was originally imported into ,flanders from ,french ,hainault in the seventeenth century4 ,as early as #afef1 ,ypres began to make ,valenciennes lace4 ,when1 in #afhd1 a census was made by order of ,louis ,,xiv41 there were only three forewomen#cgb and sixty-three lace-makers4 ,in #ahej1 there were from #bj1jjj to #bb1jjj in ,ypres and its environs alone4 ,the productions of ,ypres are of the finest quality and most elaborate in their workmanship4 ,on a piece not two inches wide1 from #bjj to #cjj bobbins are employed1 and for the larger widths as many as #hjj or more are used on the same pillow4 ,in the exhibition of #ahfg1 one exhibited with the lace in progress had #a1bjj bobbins1#cgc while in the ,international ,exhibition of #ahgd there were no less than #h1jjj bobbins on a ,courtrai pillow used for making a parasol cover4 ,the ground is in large clear squares1 which admirably throws up the even tissue of the patterns4 ,in these there was little variety until #ahcc1 when a manufacturer#cgd adopted a clear #acbwire ground with bold flowing designs1 instead of the thick treille#cge and scanty flowers of the old laces4 7,fig4 #fe47 ,the change was accepted by fashion1 and the ,valenciennes lace of ,ypres has now attained a high degree of perfection4 ,courtrai has made great advances towards rivalling ,ypres in its productions4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fe4 ,,valenciennes ,,lace ,,of ,,ypres4 ,not a hundred years since1 when the laces of ,valenciennes prospered1 those of ,belgium were designated as fausses ,valenciennes4 ,belgium has now the monopoly to a commercial value of more than #hjj1jjj4cgf ,the other principal centres of the manufacture are ,bruges1 ,courtrai1 and ,menin in ,west1 ,ghent and ,alost in ,east1 ,flanders4 ,when ,peuchet wrote in the eighteenth century1 he cites les dentelles l'instar de ,valenciennes of ,courtrai as being in favour1 and generally sought after both in ,england and ,france1 while those of ,bruges are merely alluded to as passing for ,mechlin4 ,from this it may be inferred the tide had not then flowed so far north4 ,the ,valenciennes of ,bruges1 from its round ground1 has never enjoyed a high reputation4 ,,plate ,,xli4 ,illustration3 ,,flemish4 ,,flat ,,spanish ,,bobbin ,,lace4--,made in ,flanders4 ,seventeenth century4 ,from a photo the property of ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #acb4 #acc;,in forming the ground1 the bobbins are only twisted twice1 while in those of ,ypres and ,alost1 the operation is performed four and five times4#cgg ,the oftener the bobbins are twisted the clearer and more esteemed is the ,valenciennes4 ,the guipure de ,flandres made at ,bruges in point plat is now in high repute1 and has proved from its low price a formidable rival to ,honiton1 which it resembles1 but the workmanship is coarser and inferior than in the best ,honiton4 ,it is of a brilliant white1 and composed of bobbin-made flowers united by barettes or brides picot4 ,in the ,l',industrie ,dentellire ,belge 7#ahfj71 it is stated that ,west ,flanders has now #ahj fabrics and #djj lace schools4 ,of these1 #aeg are the property of religious communities1 and number upwards of #cj1jjj apprentices4#cgh ,,flanders 7,,east74 ,no traveller has passed through the city of ,ghent for the last hundred years without describing the ,bguinage and its lace school4 ,the women1 writes the author of the ,grand ,tour1 #agef1 number nigh #e1jjj1 go where they please1 and employ their time in weaving lace4 ,savary cites the fausses ,valenciennes1 which he declares to equal the real in beauty4 ,they are1 continues he1 moins serres1 un peu moins solides1 et un peu moins chres4 ,the best account1 however1 we have of the ,ghent manufactures is contained in a letter addressed to ,sir ,john ,sinclair by ,mr4 ,hey ,schoulthem in #ahae4 ,the making of lace1 he writes1 at the time the ,french entered the ,low ,countries1 employed a considerable number of people of both sexes1 and great activity prevailed in ,ghent4 ,the lace was chiefly for daily use2 it was sold in ,holland1 ,france and ,england4 ,a large quantity of 'sorted' laces of a peculiar quality were exported to ,spain and the colonies4 ,it is to be feared that1 after an interruption of twenty years1 this lucrative branch of commerce will be at an end3 the changes of fashion have even reached the ,west ,indian colonists1 #acdwhose favourite ornaments once consisted of ,flemish laces#cgi and fringes4 ,these laces were mostly manufactured in the charitable institutions for poor girls1 and by old women whose eyes did not permit them to execute a finer work4 ,as for the young girls1 the quality of these ,spanish laces1 and the facility of their execution1 permitted the least skilful to work them with success1 and proved a means of rendering them afterwards excellent workwomen4 ,at present1 the best market for our laces is in ,france2 a few also are sent to ,england4 ,he continues to state that1 since the interruption of the commerce with ,spain1 to which ,ghent formerly belonged1 the art has been replaced by a trade in cotton2 but that cotton-weaving spoils the hand of the lace-makers1 and1 if continued1 would end by annihilating the lace manufacture4#chj ,grammont and ,enghien formerly manufactured a cheap white thread lace1 now replaced by the making of laces of black silk4 ,this industry was introduced towards #ahdj by ,m4 ,lepage1 and black silk and cotton-thread lace is now made at ,grammont1 ,enghien1 and ,oudenarde in the southern part of ,eastern ,flanders4 ,the lace of ,grammont is remarkable for its regularity1 the good quality of its silk1 and its low price1 but its grounds are coarse1 and the patterns want relief and solidity1 and the bobbins are more often twisted in making the ground1 which deprives it of its elasticity4 ,grammont makes no small pieces1 but shawls1 dresses1 etc41 principally for the ,american market4 ,the industrie dentellire of ,east ,flanders is now most flourishing4 ,in #ahfi it boasted #bjj fabrics directed by the laity1 and #dej schools under the superintendence of the nuns4 ,even in the poor-houses 7hospices7 every woman capable of using a bobbin passes her day in lace-making4 ,,hainault4 ,the laces of ,mons and those once known as les figures de ,chimay both in the early part of the eighteenth century enjoyed a considerable reputation4 ,mrs4 ,palliser1 on visiting ,chimay in #ahgd1 could find no traces of the manufacture beyond an aged lace-maker1 an inmate of the hospice1 who made black lace--point de ,paris--and who said that until lately ,brussels lace had also been made at ,chimay4 ,,plate ,,xlii4 ,illustration3 ,,flemish4 ,,guipure ,,de ,,flandre1 ,,bobbin-,,made4--,seventeenth century4 ,in the ,muse ,cinquantenaire1 ,brussels4 ,to face page #acd4 #ace,the first ,binche lace has the character of ,flanders lace1 so it has been supposed that the women who travelled from ,ghent in the train of ,mary of ,burgundy1 the daughter of ,charles le ,tmraire1 created the taste for lace at ,binche1 and that the stay of the great ladies1 on their visits to the royal lady of the manor1 made the fortune of the lace-makers4 ,afterwards there was much traffic between the lace-workers of ,brussels and ,binche1 and there is a great resemblance between the laces of the two towns4 ,sometimes the latter is less light1 richer1 and more complex in effect1 and the design is closely sprinkled with open-work1 the ground varied and contrasted4 ,binche was1 as early as #afhf1 the subject of a royal edict1 leading one to infer that the laces it produced were of some importance4 ,in the said edict1 the roads of ,verviers1 ,gueuse1 and ,le ,catelet1 to those persons coming from ,binche1 are pronounced faux passages4#cha ,savary esteems the products of this little village4 ,the same laces1 he adds1 are made in all the monastres of the province1 that are partly maintained by the gains4 ,the lace is good1 equal to that of ,brabant and ,flanders4 ,the characteristic peculiarities of ,binche are1 that there is either no cordonnet at all outlining the pattern1 or that the cordonnet is scarcely a thicker thread than that which makes the toil4#chb ,the design itself is very indefinite1 and is practically the same as the early ,valenciennes laces4 ,varieties of the fond de neige ground were used instead of the regular rseau ground4 ,dentelle de ,binche appears to have been much in vogue in the last century4 ,it is mentioned in the inventory of the ,duchesse de ,modne1#chc daughter of the ,regent1 #agfa2 and in that of ,mademoiselle de ,charollais1 #ageh1 who has a couvrepied1 mantelet1 garniture de robe1 jupon1 etc41 all of the same lace4 ,in the ,misrables of ,victor ,hugo1 the old grandfather routs out #acf;from a cupboard une ancienne garniture de guipure de ,binche for ,cosette's wedding-dress4#chd ,the ,binche application flowers have already been noticed4 ,the lace industry of ,binche will soon be only a memory4 ,but before #ahcj it was a hive of lace-makers1 and the bees of this hive earned so much money by making lace that their husbands could go and take a walk without a care for the morrow1 as it is curiously phrased in an account of ,binche and its lace4 7,plate ,,xliii47 ,we have now named the great localities for lace-making throughout the ,low ,countries4 ,some few yet remain unmentioned4 ,the needle-point of ,lige should be mentioned among the ,flanders laces4 ,at the ,cathedral of ,lige there is still to be seen a flounce of an alb unequalled for the richness and variety of its design and its perfection4 ,lige in her days of ecclesiastical grandeur carried on the lace trade like the rest4#che ,we read1 in #afbj1 of ,english ,jesuitesses at ,lige1 who seem to care as much for politics as for lace-making4#chf ,an early pattern-book1 that of ,jean de ,glen1 a transcript of ,vinciolo1 was published in that city in #aeig4 ,it bears the mark of his printing-press--three acorns with the motto1 ,cuique sua prmia1 and is dedicated to ,madame ,loyse de ,perez4 ,he concludes a complimentary dedication to the lady with the lines3-- ,madame1 dont l'esprit modestement subtil1 ,vigoureux1 se dlecte en toutes choses belles1 ,prenez de bonne part ces nouvelles modelles ,que vous offre la main de ce maistre gentil4 ,he states that he has travelled and brought back from ,italy some patterns1 without alluding to ,vinciolo4 ,at the end1 in a chapter of good advice to young ladies1 after exhorting them to salutairement passer la journe1 tant pour l'me que pour le corps1 he winds up that he is aware that other exercises1 such as stretching the hands and feet1 se frotter un peu les points des bras1 and combing the hair1 are good for the health2 that to wash the hands occasionally in cold water is both civil et honnte1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xliii4 ,,binche4--,width1 #b-a_/h in4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xliv4 ,,belgian1 ,,bobbin-,,made4 ,,marche4--,end of eighteenth century4 ,in the ,muse ,cinquantenaire1 ,brussels4 ,,belgian1 ,,bobbin-,,made4 ,,plate ,,xlv4 ,illustration3 ,,drawn ,,and ,,embroidered ,,muslin1 resembling fine lace4--,flemish work4 ,end of eighteenth century4 ,width1 #b in41 not including the modern heading4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden from private collections4 ,to face page #acf4 #acg;,dentelles de ,lige1 fines et grosses de toutes sortes1 are mentioned with those of ,lorraine and ,du ,comt 7,franche-,comt7 in the tariff fixed by a ,french edict of ,september #ahth1 #affd4chg ,mrs4 ,calderwood1 who visited ,lige in #agef1 admires the point-edging to the surplices of the canons1 which1 she remarks1 have a very genteel appearance4 ,the manufacture had declined at ,lige1 in #ahjb1 when it is classed by the ,french ,commissioners among the fabriques moins considrables1 and the lace-makers of the ,rue ,pierreuse1 who made a garniture troite--the caeteresses#chh--;had died out in #ahha4 ,the same work is now carried on at ,laroche4#chi ,the lace products of ,st4 ,trond1 in the province of ,limburgh1 appear by the report of the ,french ,commission of #ahjc to have been of some importance4 ,lace1 they say1 is made at ,st4 ,trond1 where from #hjj to #ijj are so employed1 either at their own homes or in the workshops of the lace-manufacturers4 ,the laces resemble those of ,brussels and ,mechlin1 and although they have a lesser reputation in commerce1 several descriptions are made1 and about #h1jjj metres are produced of laces of first quality1 fetching from twelve to fourteen francs the metre4 ,these laces are chiefly made for exportation1 and are sold mostly in ,holland and at the ,frankfort fairs4 ,the report concludes by stating that the vicissitudes of war1 in diminishing the demand for objects of luxury1 has much injured the trade2 and also suggests that some provisions should be made to stop the abuses arising from the bad faith of the lace-makers1 who often sell the materials given them to work with4#cijcia #ach,many of the ,belgian churches have lace among the trsors d'glise4 ,a great number of the convents also possess beautiful lace1 for girls who have been educated in them often give their bridal lace1 after their marriage1 to the chapel of the convent4 ,at ,bruges1 an ancient turreted house of the fifteenth century1 the ,gruuthus mansion1 now restored1 contains one of the finest collections of lace in the world--a collection of ,flemish laces presented to the town by the ,baroness ,liedts4 ,bruges itself1 and the country round1 is full of lace-workers1 some working in factories or ateliers at the guipure de ,flandres1 others working at the coarse cheap torchon1 sitting in the sun by the quiet canal-sides1 or in the stone-cobbled lanes of the old city1 where their house-door opens into a room as dark and narrow as a fox-earth1 and leading a life so poor that ,english competition in the cheaper forms of lace is impossible4 ,within the last few years the immense development of the ,belgian lace trade has overthrown the characteristic lace of each city4 ,lace1 white and black1 point and pillow1 may at the present time be met with in every province of the now flourishing kingdom of ,belgium4#cib #aci;,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,france ,,to ,,louis ,,xiv4 ,il est une desse inconstante1 incommode1 ,bizarre dans ses gots1 folle en ses ornements1 ,qui parait1 fuit1 revient1 et renat1 en tout temps3 ,prote tait son pre1 et son nom est la mode4--,voltaire4 ,to-day the ,french ,all clinquant1 all in gold4--,shakespeare4 ,to the ,italian influences of the sixteenth century ,france owes the fashion for points coups and lace4#cic ,it was under the ,valois and the ,mdicis that the luxury of embroidery1 laces of gold1 silver1 and thread1 attained its greatest height1 and point coup was as much worn at that epoch1 as were subsequently the points of ,italy and ,flanders4 ,ruffs and cuffs1 according to ,quicherat1 first appeared in ,france in #aedj4 ,the ruff or fraise1 as it was termed from its fancied resemblance to the caul#cid or frill of the calf1 first #adj;adopted by ,henry ,,ii4 to conceal a scar1 continued in favour with his sons4 ,the ,queen-mother herself wore mourning from the day of the ,king's death2 no decoration therefore appears upon her wire-mounted ruff1#cie but the fraises of her family and the escadron volante are profusely trimmed with the geometric work of the period1 and the making of laces and point coup was the favourite employment of her court4 ,it is recorded that the girls and servants of her household consumed much time in making squares of rseuil1 and ,catherine de ,mdicis had a bed draped with these squares of rseuil or lacis4 ,catherine encouraged dress and extravagance1 and sought by brilliant ftes to turn people's minds from politics4 ,in this she was little seconded either by her husband or gloomy son1 ,king ,charles2 but ,henry ,,iii4 and his mignons friss et fraiss were tricked out in garments of the brightest colours--toques and toquets1 pearl necklaces and earrings4 ,the ruff was the especial object of royal interest4 ,with his own hand he used the poking-sticks and adjusted the plaits4 ,gaudronneur des collets de sa femme was the soubriquet bestowed on him by the satirists of the day4#cif ,by #aegi the ruffs of the ,french court had attained such an outrageous size1 un tiers d'aulne1#cig in depth that the wearers could scarcely turn their heads4#cih ,both men and women wore them intolerably large1 being a quarter of a yard deep and twelve lengths in a ruff1 writes ,stone4 ,in ,london the fashion was termed the ,french ruff2 in ,france1 on the other hand1 it was the ,english monster4 ,blaise de ,viginire describes them as gadrooned like organ-pipes1 contorted or crinkled like cabbages1 and as big as the sails of a windmill4 ,so absurd was the effect1 the #ada;journalist of ,henry ,,iii4#cii declares they looked like the head of ,john the ,baptist in a charger4 ,nor could they eat so encumbered4 ,it is told how ,reine ,margot one day1 when seated at dinner1 was compelled to send for a spoon with a handle two feet in length wherewith to eat her soup4#djj ,these monstrosities1 so stiffened that they cracked like paper1#dja found little favour beyond the precincts of the ,louvre4 ,they were caricatured by the writers of the day2 and when1 in #aegi1 ,henry ,,iii4 appeared thus attired at the fair of ,st4 ,germain1 he was met by a band of students decked out in large paper cuffs1 shouting1 la fraise on connoit le veau--for which impertinence the ,king sent them to prison4#djb ,suddenly1 at the ,court of ,henry1 the fraise gave way to the rabat1 or turn-down collar4#djc ,in vain were sumptuary edicts issued against luxury4#djd ,the court set a bad example2 and in #aegg1 at the meeting of the ,states of ,blois1 ,henry wore on his own dress four thousand yards of pure gold lace4 ,his successor1 ,henry ,,iv41 issued several fresh ordinances#dje against clinquants #djf et dorures4 ,touching the last1 ,regnier1 the satirist1 writes3-- ,a propos1 on m'a dit ,que contre les clinquants le roy faict un edict4#djg ,better still1 the ,king tried the effect of example3 he wore a coat of grey cloth with a doublet of taffety1 without either #adbtrimming or lace--a piece of economy little appreciated by the public4 ,his dress1 says an author1 sentait des misres de la ,ligue4 ,sully1 anxious to emulate the simplicity of the ,king1 laughed at those qui portoient leurs moulins et leurs bois de haute futaie sur leurs dos4#djh ,it is necessary1 said he1 to rid ourselves of our neighbours' goods1 which deluge the country4 ,so he prohibited1 under pain of corporal punishment1 any more dealings with the ,flemish merchants4 ,but edicts failed to put down point coup2 ,reine ,margot1 ,madame ,gabrielle1 and ,bassompierre were too strong for him4 ,the ,wardrobe ,accounts of ,henry's first queen are filled with entries of point coup and passements l'aiguille2#dji and though ,henry usually wore the silk-wrought shirts of the day1#daj we find in the inventory of his wife one entered as trimmed with cut-work4#daa ,wraxall declares to have seen exhibited at a booth on the ,boulevart de ,bondy1 the shirt worn by ,henry when assassinated4 ,it is ornamented1 he writes1 with a broad lace round the collar and breast4 ,the two wounds inflicted by the assassin's knife are plainly visible4#dab ,,plate ,,xlvi4 ,illustration3 ,,ruff1 ,,edged ,,with ,,lace4--,in the ,muse de ,cluny1 ,paris4 ,to face page #adb4 #adc;,in the inventory#dac made at the death of ,madame ,gabrielle1 the fair ,duchesse de ,beaufort1 we find entered sleeves and towels of point coupp1 with fine handkerchiefs1 gifts of the ,king to be worn at court1 of such an extraordinary value that ,henry requires them to be straightway restored to him4 ,in the same list appears the duchess's bed of ivory1#dad with hangings for the room of rzeuil4#dae ,the ,chancellor ,herault1#daf who died at the same period1 was equally extravagant in his habits2 while the shirts of the combatants in the duel between ,m4 de ,crequy and ,don ,philippe de ,savoie are specially vaunted as toutes garnies du plus fin et du plus riche point coup qu'on eust pu trouver dans ce temps l1 auquel le point de ,gennes et de ,flandres n'estoient pas en usage4#dag ,the enormous collarette1 rising behind her head like a #add;fan1 of ,mary de ,mdicis1 with its edgings of fine lace1 are well known to the admirers of ,rubens3-- ,cinq colets de dentelle haute de demy-pi ,l'un sur l'autre montez1 qui ne vont qu'a moiti ,de celuys de dessus1 car elle n'est pas leste1 ,si le premier ne passe une paulme la teste4#dah ,on the accession of ,louis ,,xiii1 luxury knew no bounds4 ,the ,queen ,regent was magnificent by nature1 while ,richelieu1 anxious to hasten the ruin of the nobles1 artfully encouraged their prodigality4 ,but ,mary was compelled to repress this taste for dress4 ,the courtiers importuned her to increase their pensions1 no longer sufficient for the exigencies of the day4 ,the ,queen1 at her wits' end1 published in #afac a ,rglement pour les superfluits des habits1 prohibiting all lace and embroidery4#dai ,france had early sent out books of patterns for cut-work and lace4 ,that of ,francisque ,pelegrin was published at ,paris in the reign of ,francis ,i4 ,six were printed at ,lyons alone4 ,the four earlier have no date1#dbj the two others bear those of #aedidba and #aehe4dbb ,it was to these first that ,vinciolo so contemptuously alludes in his dedication1 ,aux ,benevolles ,lecteurs1 saying1 ,si les premiers ouvrages que vous avez vus out engendr quelque fruit et utilit je m'assure que les miens en produiront davantage4 ,various editions of ,vinciolo were printed at ,paris from #aehg to #afbc2 the earlier dedicated to ,queen ,louise de ,lorraine2 a second to ,catherine de ,bourbon1 sister of ,henry ,,iv42 the last to ,anne of ,austria4 ,the ,pratique de ,leguille de ,milour ,m4 ,mignerak was published by the same printer1 #afje2 and we have another work1 termed ,ble ,prerie1 also printed at ,paris1 bearing date #afja4dbc ,the points of ,italy and ,flanders now first appear at court1 and the ,church soon adopted the prevailing taste for the decoration of her altars and her prelates4#dbd ,,plate ,,xlvii4 ,illustration3 ,,brussels4 ,,flounce1 ,,bobbin-,,made4--,late seventeenth century4 ,given by ,madame de ,maintenon to ,fnlon1 ,archbishop of ,cambrai4 ,now in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,height1 #b ft4 #b in4 ,to face page #adf4 #ade,the ruff is finally discarded and replaced by the col rabattu1 with its deep-scalloped border of point4 ,the manchettes revers are trimmed in the same manner1 and the fashion even extends to the tops of the boots4 ,of these lace-trimmed boots the favourite1 ,cinq-,mars1 left three hundred pairs at his death1 #afdb4 ,from his portrait1 after ,lenain1 which hangs in the ,gallery of ,versailles1 we give one of these boots 7,fig4 #ff71 and his rich collerette of ,point de ,gnes 7,fig4 #fg74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ff4 ,,cinq-,,mars4--7,m4 de ,versailles47 ,the garters1 now worn like a scarf round the knee1 have the ends adorned with point4 ,a large rosette of lace completes the costume of the epoch 7,fig4 #fh74 #adf;,gold lace shared the favour of the thread fabric on gloves1#dbe garters and shoes4#dbf ,de large taftas la jartire pare ,aux bouts de demy-pied de dentelle dore4#dbg ,the cuffs1 collars of the ladies either falling back or rising behind their shoulders in double tier1 caps1 aprons descending to their feet 7,fig4 #fi71 are also richly decorated with lace4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fg4 ,,cinq-,,mars4--7,after his portrait by ,le ,nain4 ,m4 de ,versailles47 ,the contemporary engravings of ,abraham ,bosse and ,callot faithfully portray the fashions of this reign4 ,in the ,prodigal ,son1 of ,abraham ,bosse1 the mother1 waiting his #adgreturn1 holds out to her repentant boy a collar trimmed with the richest point4 ,the ,foolish ,virgins weep in lace-trimmed handkerchiefs1 and the table-cloth of the rich man1 as well as his dinner-napkins1 are similarly adorned4 ,again1 the ,accouche recovers in a cap of ,italian point under a coverlet of the same4 ,at the ,retour de ,baptme1 point adorns the christening-dress of the child and the surplice of the priest4 ,when1 in #afae1 ,louis ,,xiii4 married ,anne of ,austria1 the collerettes of the ,queen-,mother were discarded--the reign of ,italy was at an end--all was now l'spagnole and the court of ,castile4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fh4 ,,lace ,,rose ,,and ,,garter4--7,after ,abraham ,bosse47 ,the prodigality of the nobles#dbh having called down royal ordinances on their heads1#dbi these new edicts bring forth #adh;fresh satires1 in which the author deplores the prohibition of cut-work and lace3-- ,ces points couppez1 passemens et dentelles1 ,las6 que venaient de l',isle et de ,bruxelles1 ,sont maintenant descriez1 avilis1 ,et sans faveur gisent ensevelis2#dcj but ,pour vivre heureux et la mode ,il faut que chacun accommode ,ses habits aux editz du roi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fi4 ,,young ,,lady',s ,,apron1 ,,time ,,of ,,henry ,,iii4--7,after ,gaignires4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav47 ,edict now follows on edict4#dca ,one known as the ,code ,michaud1 entering into the most minute regulations for the toilet1 especially excited the risibility of the people4 ,it was never carried out4 ,the caricatures of this period are admirable3 one represents a young courtier fresh rigged in his #adiplain-bordered linen1 according to the ordinance4 ,his valet de chambre is about to lock up his laced suit3-- ,c'est avec regret que mon matre ,quitte ses beaux habillemens ,sems de riches passemens4#dcb ,another engraving of ,abraham ,bosse shows a lady of fashion with her lace discarded and dressed in plain linen cuffs and collar3-- ,quoique l'ge assez de beaut ,pour asseurer sans vanit ,qu'il n'est point de femme plus belle ,il semble pourtant1 mes yeux1 ,qu'avec de l'or et la dantelle ,je m'ajuste encore bien mieux4 ,alluding to the plain-bordered collars now ordered by the prohibition of #afci1 the ,satyrique de la ,court sings3-- ,nagures l'on n'osoit hanter les damoiselles ,que l'on n'eust le colet bien garni de dentelles2 ,maintenant on se rit et se moque de ceux l ,qui desirent encore paroistre avec cela4 ,les fraises et colets bord sont en usage1 ,sans faire mention de tous en dentellage4 ,france at this time paying large sums to ,italy and ,flanders for lace1 the wearing of it is altogether prohibited1 under pain of confiscation and a fine of #f1jjj livres4#dcc ,the ,queen-,mother1 regardless of edicts1 has over passements d'or and all sorts of forbidden articles1 pour servir la layette que sa majest envoy en ,angleterre4#dcd ,within scarce one year of each other passed away ,marie de ,mdicis1 ,richelieu1 and ,louis ,,xiii4 ,the ,king's effigy was exposed on its lit de parade vtue d'une chemise de toile de ,hollande avec de tres belles dantelles de point de ,gennes au collet et aux manches4#dce--,so say the chroniclers4 #aej;,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,louis ,,xiv4 ,the courtiers of the ,regency under ,anne of ,austria vied with the ,frondeurs in extravagance4 ,the latter1 however1 had the best of it4 ,la ,fronde1 writes ,joly1 devint tellement la mode qu'il n'y avoit rien de bien fait qu'on ne dist tre de la ,fronde4 ,les toffes1 les dentelles1 etc41 jusqu'au pain1--rien n'estoit ni bon1 ni bien si n'estoit la ,fronde4#dcf ,nor was the ,queen ,regent herself less profuse in her indulgence in lace4 ,she is represented in her portraits with a berthe of rich point1 her beautiful hand encircled by a double-scalloped cuff 7,fig4 #gj74 ,the boot-tops had now reached an extravagant size4 ,one writer compares them to the farthingales of the ladies1 another to an inverted torch4 ,the lords of the ,regent's court filled up the apertures with two or three rows of ,genoa point 7,fig4 #ga74 ,in #afec1dcg we find ,mazarin1 while engaged in the siege of a city1 holding a grave correspondence with his secretary ,colbert concerning the purchase of some points from ,flanders1 ,venice1 and ,genoa4 ,he considers it advisable to advance thirty or forty thousand livres ces achapts1 adding1 that by making the purchases in time he will derive great advantage in the price2 but as he hopes the siege will soon be at an end1 they may wait his arrival at ,paris for his final decision4#dch ,,plate ,,xlviii4 ,illustration3 ,,brussels4 ,,bobbin-,,made4--,period ,louis ,,xiv41 #afdc-agae4 ,in the ,muse ,cinquantenaire1 ,brussels4 ,,plate ,,xlix4 ,illustration3 ,,brussels4 ,,point ,d',,angleterre ,r,,seau4--,eighteenth century4 ,widths1 #b in4 and #c in4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #aej4 #aea;,illustration3 ,fig4 #gj4 ,,anne ,,of ,,austria4--7,m4 de ,versailles47 ,colbert again writes1 ,november #beth1 pressing his ,eminence on account of the quantit de mariages qui se feront l'hyver4 ,a passage in ,tallemant des ,raux would lead one to suppose these laces were destined as patterns for the improvement of ,french manufactures4 ,per mostra di farne in ,francia1 as the ,cardinal expressed himself4 ,certainly in the inventory of ,mazarin#dci there are no mention of ,italian points1 no lace coverlets to his ,lict d'ange moire tabize1 couleur de rose chamarre de #aeb;dentelles d'or et d'argent4 ,we may almost imagine that the minister and his secretary combined were already meditating the establishment of ,points de ,france4 ,in this reign1 fresh sumptuary ordinances are issued4 ,that of ,november #bgth1 #affj1 is the most important of all1#ddj and is highly commended by ,sganarelle in the ,ecole des ,maris of ,molire which appeared the following year3-- ,oh6 trois et quatre fois soit bni cet dit1 ,par qui des vtemens le luxe est interdit2 ,les peines des maris ne seront pas si grandes1 ,et les femmes auront un frein leurs demandes4 ,oh6 que je sais au roi bon gr de ses dcrets2 ,et que1 pour le repos de ces mmes maris1 ,je voudrais bien qu'on fit de la coquetterie ,comme de la guipure et de la broderie4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ga4 ,a ,,courtier ,,of ,,the ,,regency4--7,after ,abraham ,bosse47 ,this ordinance1 after prohibiting all foreign passemens1 points de ,gnes1 points coups1 etc41 or any ,french laces or passements exceeding an inch in width1 allows the use of the collerettes and manchettes persons already possess for the space of one year1 after which period they are only to be trimmed with a lace made in the kingdom1 not exceeding an #aec;inch in width4 ,the ordinance then goes on to attack the canons1 which it states have been introduced into the kingdom1 with un excs de dpense insupportable1 par la quantit de passemens1 points de ,venise et ,gnes1 with which they are loaded4#dda ,their use of them is now entirely prohibited1 unless made of plain linen or of the same stuff as the coat1 without lace or any ornament4 ,the lace-trimmed canons of ,louis ,,xiv41 as represented in the picture of his interview with ,philip ,,iv41 in the ,island of ,pheasants1 previous to his marriage1 #affj 7,fig4 #gb71 give a good idea of these extravagant appendages4 ,these ,canons trois tages ,a leurs jambes faisoient d'ombrages4#ddb ,and1 what was worse1 they would cost #g1jjj livres a pair4 ,at the ,court of ,france1 writes ,savinire1 people think nothing of buying rabats1 manchettes1 or canons to the value of #ac1jjj crowns4#ddc ,these canons1 with their accompanying rheingraves1 which after the prohibition of ,venice point were adorned with the new productions of ,france1 suddenly disappeared4 ,in #afhb1 the ,mercure announces1 ,les canons et les rheingraves deviennent tout fait hors de mode4 ,at the marriage of the young ,king with the ,infanta1 #affj1 black lace1#ddd probably in compliment to the ,spanish#dde #aed;court1 came into favour1 the nobles of the ,king's suite wearing doublets of gold and silver brocade1 orns1 says the ,chronique1#ddf de dentelles noires d'un point recherch4#ddg ,the same writer1 describing the noviciate of ,la ,vallire at the ,carmelites1 writes1 ,les dames portoient des robes de brocard d'or1 d'argent1 ou d'azur1 par dessus lesquelles elles avoient jetes d'autres robes et dentelles noires transparentes4#ddh ,under ,louis ,,xiv41 the gold and silver points of ,spain and ,aurillac rivalled the thread fabrics of ,flanders and ,italy2 but towards the close of the century1#ddi we are informed1 they have fallen from fashion into the domaine du vulgaire4 ,the ordinance of #affj had but little effect1 for various others are issued in the following years with the oft-repeated prohibitions of the points of ,genoa and ,venice4#dej ,but edicts were of little avail4 ,no royal command could compel people to substitute the coarse inferior laces of ,france#dea for the fine artistic productions of her sister countries4 ,colbert therefore wisely adopted another expedient4 ,he determined to develop the lace-manufacture of ,france1 and to produce fabrics which should rival the coveted points of ,italy and ,flanders1 so that if fortunes were lavished upon these luxuries1 at all events the money should not be sent out of the kingdom to procure them4 ,he therefore applied to ,monseigneur de ,bonzy1 ,bishop of ,bziers1 then ,ambassador at ,venice1 who replied that in ,venice all the convents and poor families make a living out of this lace-making4 ,in another letter he writes to the minister1 ,je vois que vous seriez bien aise d'establir dans le royaume la manufacture des points de ,venise1 ce qui se pourrait faire en envoyant d'icy quelques filles des meilleures ouvrires qui pussent instruire celles de ,france avec le temps4#deb ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gb4 ,,canons ,,of ,,louis ,,xiv4--7,m4 de ,versailles1 #affj47 ,to face page #aed4 #aee,monseigneur de ,bonzy's suggestion was accepted1 and a few years later 7#afgc7 ,colbert writes to ,m4 le ,comte d',avaux1 who succeeded ,m4 de ,bonzy as ambassador at ,venice3 ,i have gladly received the collar of needlepoint lace worked in relief that you have sent me1 and ,i find it very beautiful4 ,i shall have it compared with those new laces being made by our own lace-makers1 although ,i may tell you beforehand that as good specimens are now made in this kingdom4#dec ,alenon1 an old lace-making centre1 was chosen as the seat of the new manufacture4#ded ,favier-,duboulay writes to ,colbert that1 before the introduction of the new points de ,france1 lace-making was to the peasants une manne1 et une vraie bndiction du ciel1 qui s'est espandue sur tout ce pays4 ,the art had spread far and wide through the district about ,alenon2 children of seven years of age and aged men earned their daily bread by it1 and the shepherdesses worked at their lace while herding their flocks4 #aef;,illustration3 ,fig4 #gc4 ,,ch,,teau ,,de ,,lonrai1 ,d,p4 ,,orne4 ,m4 ,odolent ,desnos gives the following account of the invention and establishment of point d',alenon3--#dee ,in #affe1 at the recommendation of the ,sieur ,ruel1 he 7,colbert7 selected a ,madame ,gilbert1 a native of ,alenon1 already acquainted with the manner of making ,venice point1 and making her an advance of #ej1jjj crowns1 established her at his chteau of ,lonrai 7,fig4 #gc71 near ,alenon1 with thirty forewomen1 whom he had1 at great expense1 caused to be brought over from ,venice4 ,in a short time ,madame ,gilbert arrived at ,paris with the first specimens of her fabric4 ,the king1 inspired by ,colbert with a desire to see the work1 during supper at ,versailles announced to his courtiers he had just established a manufacture of point more beautiful than that of ,venice1 and appointed a day when he would inspect the specimens4 ,the laces were artistically arranged over the walls of a room hung with crimson damask1 and shown to the best advantage4 ,the king expressed himself delighted4 ,he ordered a large sum to be given to ,madame ,gilbert1 and desired that no other lace should appear at court except the new fabric1 upon which he bestowed the name of point de ,france4#def ,scarcely had ,louis retired than the courtiers eagerly stripped the room of its contents4 ,the approval of the monarch was the fortune of ,alenon3 point de ,france adopted by court etiquette1 the wearing of it became compulsory4 ,all who had the privilege of the 'casaque bleue'--all who were received at ,versailles or were attached to the royal household1 could only appear1 the ladies in trimmings and headdresses1 the gentlemen in ruffles and cravats of the royal manufacture4 ,,plate ,l4 ,illustration3 ,,chenille ,,run ,,on ,a ,,bobbin ,,ground4--,taken from an early eighteenth century ,court dress1 and typical of a ,french dress passementerie of that date4 ,about half size4 ,,plate ,,li4 ,illustration3 ,,brussels4 ,,bobbin-,,made4--,early eighteenth century4 ,width1 #c in4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden from private collections4 ,to face page #aef4 #aeg,unfortunately for this story1 the ,chteau de ,lonrai came into the family of ,colbert fourteen years after the establishment of the lace-industry at ,alenon1#deg and the name of ,gilbert is not found in any of the documents relating to the establishment of point de ,france1 nor in the correspondence of ,colbert4#deh ,an ordinance of ,august #eth1 #affe1 founded upon a large scale the manufacture of points de ,france1#dei with an exclusive privilege for ten years and a grant of #cf1jjj #aeh;francs4 ,a company was formed1#dfj its members rapidly increased1 and in #affh the capital amounted to #bb1jjj livres4 ,eight directors were appointed at salaries of #ab1jjj livres a year to conduct the manufacture1 and the company held its sittings in the ,htel de ,beaufort at ,paris4 ,the first distribution of profits took place in ,october1 #affi1 amounting to fifty per cent4 upon each share4 ,in #afgj a fresh distribution took place1 and #abj1jjj livres were divided among the shareholders4 ,that of #afgc was still more considerable4 ,in #afge the ten years' privilege ceased1 the money was returned1 and the rest of the profits divided4 ,colbert likewise set up a fabric at the ,chteau de ,madrid1 built by ,francis ,i41 on the ,bois de ,boulogne4 ,such was the origin of point lace in ,france4 ,the difficulties met by ,colbert in establishing his manufactories can only be estimated by reading his correspondence1 in which there are no less than fifty letters on the subject4 ,the apathy of the town authorities and the constant rebellions of the lace-workers who preferred their old stitch were incessant sources of trouble to him1 but eventually ,colbert's plan was crowned with success4 ,he established a lucrative manufacture which brought large sums of money into the kingdom#dfa instead of sending it out4 ,well might he say that#dfb ,fashion was to ,france what the mines of ,peru were to ,spain4#dfc #aei;,boileau alludes to the success of the minister in his ,epistle to ,louis ,,xiv3-- ,et nos voisins frustrs de ces tributs serviles ,que payait leur art le luxe de nos villes4#dfd ,the point de ,france supplanted that of ,venice1#dfe but its price confined its use to the rich1 and when the wearing of lace became general those who could not afford so costly a production replaced it by the more moderate pillow-lace4 ,this explains the great extension of the pillow-lace manufacture at this period--the production did not suffice for the demand4 ,encouraged by the success of the royal manufactures1 lace fabrics started up in various towns in the kingdom4 ,the number of lace-workers increased rapidly4 ,those of the towns being insufficient1 they were sought for in the surrounding country1 and each town became the #afj;centre of a trade extending round it in a radius of several miles1 the work being given out from the manufactory to be executed by the cottagers in their own homes4#dff #afa;,,chapter ,x4 ,,louis ,,xiv4--continued4 ,tout change3 la raison change aussi de mthode2 crits1 habillemens1 systmes3 tout est mode4 ,racine fils1 ,eptre ,rousseau4 ,point de ,france continued to be worn in the greatest profusion during the reign of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,the ,king affected his new-born fabric much as monarchs of the present day do their tapestries and their porcelains4 ,it decorated the ,church and her ministers4 ,ladies offered tours de chaire l'glise de la paroisse4#dfg ,albs1 garnies d'un grand point de ,france brod antique2#dfh altar-cloths trimmed with ,argentan#dfi appear in the church registers4#dgj ,in a painting at ,versailles1 by ,rigaud1 representing the presentation of the ,grand ,dauphin to his royal father1 #affh1 the infant is enveloped in a mantle of the richest point 7,fig4 #gd72 and point de ,france was selected by royal command to trim the sheets of holland used at the ceremony of his nomination4#dga ,at the marriage of the ,prince de ,conti and of ,mademoiselle de ,blois the toilette#dgb presented #afb;by the ,king was garnie de point de ,france si haut qu'on ne voyait point de toile4#dgc ,the valance1 too1 and the coverlet of the bed were of the same material4#dgd ,in this luxury1 however1 ,england followed her sister kingdom1 for we read in the ,royal ,magazine of #agfc that on the baptism of the young prince1 afterwards ,duke of ,york1 the company went to the council chamber at ,st4 ,james's1 where a splendid bed was set up for the ,queen to sit on1 the counterpane of which is described as of inimitable workmanship1 the lace alone costing #c1ghc sterling4#dge ,what princes do themselves1 they engage others to do1 says ,quintilian1 and the words of the critic were1 in this case1 fully verified3 jupes1#dgf corsets1 mantles1 aprons with their bibs1#dgg shoes1#dgh gloves1#dgi even the fans were now trimmed with point de ,france4#dhj ,at the audience given by the ,dauphine to the ,siamese ambassadors1 ses relevailles1 she received them in a bed presque tout couvert d'un tres beau point de ,france1 sur lesquels on avoit mis des riches carreaux4#dha ,on the occasion of their visit to ,versailles1 ,louis1 proud of his fabric1 presented the ambassadors with cravats and ruffles of the finest point4#dhb ,these cravats were either worn of point1 in one piece1 or partly of muslin tied1 with falling lace ends4#dhc 7,fig4 #ge47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gd4 ,,le ,,grand ,b,b4 7,m4 de ,versailles47 ,to face page #afb4 #afc;,in #afgi the king gave a fte at ,marly to the lite of his brilliant court4 ,when1 at sunset1 the ladies retired to repair their toilettes1 previous to the ball1 each found in her dressing-room a robe fresh and elegant1 trimmed with point of the most exquisite texture1 a present from that gallant monarch not yet termed l'inamusable4 ,nor was the ,veuve ,scarron behind the rest4 ,when1 in #afgd1 she purchased the estate from which she afterwards derived her title of ,maintenon1 anxious to render it productive1 she enticed ,flemish workers from the frontier to establish a lace manufacture upon her newly-acquired marquisate4 ,how the fabric succeeded history does not relate1 but the costly laces depicted in her portraits 7,fig4 #gf7 have not the appearance of home manufacture4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ge4 ,,louvois4 #afia4--7;,from his statue by ,girardon4 ,m4 de ,versailles47 ,point lace-making became a favourite employment among ladies4 ,we have many engravings of this reign2 one1 #afia1 of a fille de qualit thus occupied1 with the motto1 ,apres #afd;dner vous travaillez au point4 ,another1#dhd an engraving of ,le ,paultre1 dated #afgf1 is entitled ,dame en ,dshabille de ,chambre 7,fig4 #gg74 ,la ,france est la tte du monde 7as regards fashion71 says ,victor ,hugo1 cyclope dont ,paris est l'oeil2 and writers of all ages seem to have been of the same opinion4 ,it was about the year #afhj that the ,mode fconde en mille inventions1 ,monstre1 prodige trange et difforme1 was suddenly exemplified in ,france4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gf4 ,,madame ,,de ,,maintenon4--7,from her portrait4 ,m4 de ,versailles47 ,all readers of this great reign will recall to mind the story of the ,fontanges4 ,how in the hurry of the chase the locks of the royal favourite burst from the ribbon that bound them--how the fair huntress1 hurriedly tying the lace kerchief round her head1 produced in one moment a coiffure so light1 so artistic1 that ,louis ,,xiv41 enchanted1 prayed her to retain it for that night at court4 ,the lady obeyed the royal command4 ,this mixture of lace and ribbon1 now worn for the first time1 caused a sensation1 and the next day all #afethe ladies of the court appeared coiffes la ,fontange4 7,see ,madame du ,lude1 ,fig4 #gi47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gg4 ,a ,,lady ,,in ,,morning ,d,,shabille4--7,from an engraving by ,le ,paultre4 #afgf47 ,but this head-dress1 with its tiers of point mounted on wires1#dhe soon ceased to be artistic2 it grew higher and higher4 ,poets and satirists attacked the fashion much as they did the high head-dresses of the ,roman matrons more than a thousand years ago4#dhf ,of the extinction of this mode #affwe have various accounts1 some asserting it to have been preached down by the clergy1 as were the hennins in the time of ,charles ,,vi42 but the most probable story is that which relates how1 in ,october1 #afii1 ,louis ,,xiv4 simply observed1 ,cette coiffure lui paroissoit dsagrable4 ,the ladies worked all night1 and next evening1 at the ,duchess of ,burgundy's reception1#dhg appeared for the first time in a low head-dress4 ,fashion1#dhh which the author of the before-quoted ,consolation would call pompeux1 was aujourd'hui en reforme4 ,louis ,,xiv4 never appreciated the sacrifice2 to the day of his death he persisted in saying1 ,j'ai eu beau crier contre les coiffures trop hautes4 ,no one showed the slightest desire to lower them till one day there arrived une inconnue1 une guenille d',angleterre 7,lady ,sandwich1 the ,english ,ambassadress6671 avec une petite coiffure basse--tout d'un coup1 toutes les princesses vont d'une extrmit a l'autre4#dhi ,be the accusation true or not1 the ,mercure of ,november1 #afii1 announces that ,la hauteur des anciennes coiffures commence parotre ridicule2 and ,st4 ,simon1 in his ,memoirs1 satirises the fontange as a structure of brass wire1 ribbons1 hair1 and baubles of all sorts1 about two feet high1 which made a woman's face look as if it were in the middle of her body4 ,in these days lace was not confined to ,versailles and the ,court4#dij ,le gentilhomme1 writes ,capefigue1 allait au feu en manchettes poudr la marchale1 les eaux se senteur sur son mouchoir en point d',angleterre1 l'lgance n'a jamais fait tort au courage1 et la politesse s'allie noblement la bravoure4 ,but war brings destruction to laces as well as finances1 #afg;and in #afij the loyal and noble army was found in rags4 ,then writes ,dangeau3 ,m4 de ,castanaga1 qui ,m4 de ,maine et ,m4 de ,luxembourg avoient demand un passeport pour fair venir des dentelles l'arme1 a refus le passeport1 mais il a envoy des marchands qui ont port pour dix mille cus de dentelles1 et aprs qu'on les eut achetes1 les marchands s'en retournrent sans vouloir prendre d'argent1 disant qu'ils avoient cet ordre de ,m4 de ,castanaga4 ,j'avois une ,steinkerque de ,malines1 writes the ,abb de ,choisy1 who always dressed in female attire4 ,we hear a great deal about these ,steinkirks at the end of the seventeenth century4 ,it was a twisted lace necktie1 and owed its origin to the battle of that name in #afib1dia when the young ,french ,princes of the ,blood were suddenly ordered into action4 ,hastily tying their lace cravats--in peaceful times a most elaborate proceeding--they rushed to the charge1 and gained the day4 ,in honour of this event1 both ladies and cavaliers wore their handkerchiefs knotted or twisted in this careless fashion4 ,je trouve qu'en t le ,steinkerque est commode1 ,j'aime le falbala1#dib quoiqu'il soit critiqu1 says somebody4 ,steinkirks became the rage1 and held good for many years1 worn alike in ,england#dic and ,france by the women and the men4 ,fig4 #gh represents the ,grand ,dauphin in his longue ,steinkerque replis tortueux2#did ,fig4 #gi the ,duchesse du ,lude#die in similar costume and high ,fontange1 both copied from prints of the time4 ,we find constant mention now of the fashion of wearing a lace ruffle to the ladies' sleeves1 concerning the wearing of which deux rangs1 or trois rangs1 there was much etiquette4 ,the falbalas were not given up until after the ,regency2 the use of them was frequently carried to such an excess #afhthat a caricaturist of that period drew a lady so enveloped in them that she looked like a turkey shaking its feathers and spreading its comb4 ,this caricature gave rise to a popular song called ,la ,dinde aux ,falbalas2 but in despite of song and caricature1 the flounce continued in popularity4 ,les manches plates se font de deux tiers de tour1 avec une dentelle de fil de point fort fin et fort haut4 ,on nomme ces manches ,engageantes4#dif ,this fashion1 though introduced in #afhh1 continued in vogue till the ,french ,revolution4 ,we see them in the portrait of ,madame ,palatine1 mother of the ,regent 7,fig4 #hj71 and in that of ,madame ,sophie de ,france1 daughter of ,louis ,,xv41 taken in #aghb by ,drouais4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gh4 ,,le ,,grand ,,dauphin ,,en ,,steinkerque4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gi4 ,,madame ,,du ,,lude ,,en ,,steinkerque4 ,to face page #afh4 #afi;,illustration3 ,fig4 #hj4 ,,madame ,,palatine 7,,eliz4 ,,charlotte ,,de ,,bavi,,re71 ,,duchesse ,d',,orl,,ans4 7,by ,rigaud4 ,m4 de ,versailles47 ,before finishing with point de ,france1 we must allude to the quipage de bain1 in which this fabric formed a great item4 ,as early as #afhh1 ,madame de ,maintenon presents ,madame de ,chevreuse with an quipage de bain de point de ,france of great magnificence4 ,it consisted not only of a peignoir1 but a broad flounce1 which formed a valance round the bath itself4 ,you can see them in old engravings of the day4 ,then there were the towels and the descente1 all equally costly1#dig for the ,french ladies of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries admitted their habitus not only to the ruelle1#dih but also to the bath-room4#dii ,in the latter case the bath #agjwas au lait1 i4e41 clouded by the mixture of some essence4 ,aux autres temps1 autres moeurs4 ,the fameuse poupe of the reign of ,louis ,,xiv4 must not be forgotten4 ,the custom of dressing up these great dolls originated in the salons of the ,htel ,rambouillet1 where one1 termed la grande ,pandore1 at each change of fashion was exhibited en grand tenue2 a second1 the little ,pandore1 in morning dshabille4 ,these dolls were sent to ,vienna and ,italy1 charged with the finest laces ,france could produce4 ,as late as #agfd we read in the ,espion ,chinois1 ,il a dbarqu ,douvres un grand nombre de poupes de hauteur naturelle habilles la mode de ,paris1 afin que les dames de qualit puissent rgler leurs gots sur ces modles4#ejj ,even when ,english ports were closed in war-time1 a special permission was given for the entry of a large alabaster doll four feet high1 the ,grand ,courrier de la ,mode4#eja ,in the war of the ,first ,empire this privilege was refused to our countrywomen2 and from that time ,englishwomen1 deprived of all ,french aid for a whole generation1 began to dress badly4 ,pitt has much to answer for4 ,with this notice finishes our account of the reign of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,,plate ,,lii4 ,illustration3 ,,brussels4 ,,modern ,,point ,,de ,,gaze4--,actual size4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #agj4 #aga;,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,louis ,,xv4 ,le luxe corrompt tout1 et le riche qui en jouit1 et le pauvre qui le convoite4 --,j4 ,j4 ,rousseau4 ,louis ,,xiv4 is now dead1 to the delight of a wearied nation3 we enter on the ,regency and times of ,louis ,,xv4--that age of fourchettes1 manchettes1 and jabots--in which the butterfly abbs1 les porte-dentelles par excellence1 played so conspicuous a part4 ,the origin of the weeping ruffles1 if ,mercier#ejb is to be credited1 may be assigned to other causes than royal decree or the edicts of fashion4 ,les grandes manchettes furent introduites par des fripons qui voulaient filouter au jeu et escamoter des cartes4 ,it never answers to investigate too deeply the origin of a new invented mode1--sufficient to say1 ruffles became a necessary adjunct to the toilet of every gentleman4 ,so indispensable were they1 the ,parisians are accused of adopting the custom of wearing ruffles and no shirts4 ,les ,parisiens1 writes ,mercier1 achtent quatre ajustemens contre une chemise4 ,un beau ,monsieur se met une chemise blanche tous les quinze jours4 ,il coud ses manchettes de dentelle sur une chemise sale1 and powders over his point collar till it looks white4#ejc ,this habit passed into a proverb4 ,the ,marchal de ,richelieu1 who1 though versed in astronomy1 could not spell1 said of himself1 ,qu'on ne lui avoit pas fourni des chemises1 mais qu'il avoit achet des #agbmanchettes4#ejd ,this account tallies well with former accounts#eje and with a letter of ,madame de ,maintenon to the ,princess des ,ursins1 #agaj4ejf ,at this period it was the custom for grisettes to besiege the ,paris hotels1 bearing on their arms baskets decked out with ruffles and jabots of ,malines1 ,angleterre1 and point4 ,what reader of ,sterne will not recollect the lace-seller in his ,sentimental ,journey8 ,the jabot and manchettes of points were the customary cadeau de noces of the bride to her intended for his wedding dress--a relic of which practice may be found in the embroidered wedding shirt furnished by the lady1 in the ,north of ,europe4#ejg ,the sums expended in these articles would now appear fabulous4 ,the ,archbishop of ,cambray#ejh alone possessed four dozen pairs of ruffles1 ,malines1 point1 and ,valenciennes4 ,the ,wardrobe ,bills of the ,duke de ,penthivre of #agch make mention of little else4 ,an ell and a quarter of lace was required for one pair of ruffles4 ,a yard1 minus #a_/af1 sufficed for the jabot4#eji ,there were manchettes de jour1 manchettes tournantes1#eaj and manchettes de nuit3 these last-named were mostly of ,valenciennes4#eaa ,the #agcpoint d',alenon ruffles of ,buffon1 which he always wore1 even when writing1 were exhibited in #ahfd at ,falaise1 being carefully preserved in the family to whom they have descended4 ,even1 if a contemporary writer may be credited1 ,monsieur de ,paris1 the executioner1 mounted the scaffold in a velvet suit1 powdered1 with point lace jabot and ruffles4 ,les rubans1 les miroirs1 les dentelles sont trois choses sans lesquelles les ,franois ne peuvent vivre4 ,le luxe dmesur a confondu le matre avec le valet1#eab says an unknown writer1 quoted by ,dulaure4#eac ,the servants of the last century had on their state liveries lace equal in richness to that worn by their masters4#ead ,of a ,prussian gentleman1 we read1 ,his valets1 who according to the reigning tastes were the prettiest in the world1 wore nothing but the most costly lace4#eae ,this custom was not confined1 however1 to ,france or the ,continent4 ,our very footmen1 writes the angry ,world1 are adorned with gold and #agdsilver bags and lace ruffles4 ,the valet is only distinguished from his master by being better dressed2 while the ,connoisseur complains of roast beef being banished from even 'down stairs1' because the powdered footmen will not touch it for fear of daubing their lace ruffles4#eaf ,but the time1 of all others1 for a grand display of lace was at a visit to a ,parisian lady on her relevailles1 or uprising1 as it was called1 in the days of our third ,edward4 ,reclining on a chaise longue1 she is described as awaiting her visitors4 ,nothing is to be seen but the finest laces1 arranged in artistic folds1 and long bows of ribbon4 ,an attendant stationed at the door asks of each new arrival1 ,have you any perfumes8 ,she replies not1 and passes on--an atmosphere of fragrance4 ,the lady must not be spoken to1 but1 the usual compliments over1 the visitors proceed to admire her lace4 ,beautiful1 exquisite6--but1 ,hist6 speak low1 and she who gave the caution is the first1 in true ,french style1 to speak the loudest4#eag ,lace garnitures de lit were general among great people as early as #afif4 ,the ,mercure speaks of draps garnis d'une grande dentelle de point d',angleterre4 ,in #agch writes the ,duc de ,luynes1#eah ,aujourd'hui ,madame de ,luynes s'est fait apporter les fournitures qu'elle avoit choisies pour la ,reine1 et qui regardent les dames d'honneur4 ,elles consistent en couvrepieds#eai garnis de dentelle pour le grand lit et pour les petits1 en taies d'oreiller#ebj garnies du #agemme point d',angleterre1 etc4 ,cette fourniture cote environ #cj1jjj livres1 quoique ,madame de ,luynes n'ait pas fait renouveler les beaux couvrepieds de la ,reine4 ,these garnitures were renewed every year1 and ,madame de ,luynes inherited the old ones4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ha4 ,,madame ,,sophie ,,de ,,france1 #aghb1 ,,daughter ,,of ,,louis ,,xv4 ,by ,drouais4 ,m4 de ,versailles4 7,in this picture the hexagonal brides and heavy relief of ,point d',argentan are clearly to be seen47 #agf;,illustration3 ,fig4 #hb4 ,,madame ,,ad,,la,,de ,,de ,,france1 ,,daughter ,,of ,,louis ,,xv4--7,m4 de ,versailles47 ,madame de ,crquy1 describing her visit to the ,duchesse ,douairire de ,la ,fert1 says1 when that lady received her1 she was lying in a state bed1 under a coverlet made of point de ,venise in one piece4 ,i am persuaded1 she adds1 that the trimming of her sheets1 which were of point d',argentan1 were worth at least #dj1jjj cus4#eba ,to such a pitch had the taste for lace-trimmed linen attained1 that when1 in #agci1 ,madame1 eldest daughter of ,louis ,,xv41 espoused the ,prince of ,spain1 the bill for these articles alone amounted to #be1jjj2 and when ,cardinal ,fleury1 a most economical prelate1 saw the trousseau1 he observed1 ,qu'il croyait que c'etait pour marier toutes les sept ,mesdames4#ebb 7,figs4 #ha1 #hb74 ,again1 ,swinburne writes from ,paris3#ebc ,the trousseau of ,mademoiselle de ,matignon will cost #ajj1jjj crowns 7#be1jjj74 ,the expense here of rigging#ebd out a bride is equal to a handsome portion in ,england4 ,five thousand pounds' worth of lace1 linen1 etc41 is a common thing among them4 ,,plate ,,liii4 ,illustration3 ,,madame ,,louise ,,de ,,france4 ,trimmings and tablier of ,point d',argentan4 ,painted by ,nattier at the age of eleven1 #agdh4 ,m4 de ,versailles4 ,to face page #agf4 #agg;,illustration3 ,fig4 #hc4 ,,marie ,,th,r,,se ,,ant4 ,,raph41 ,,infanta ,,of ,,spain1 ,,first ,,wife ,,of ,,louis ,,dauphin1 ,,son ,,of ,,louis ,,xv4 --,by ,tocqu4 ,dated #agdh4 ,m4 de ,versailles4 ,the masks worn by the ladies at this period were of black blonde lace#ebe of the most exquisite fineness and design4#ebf ,they were trimmed round the eyes1 like those described by ,scarron3-- ,dirai-je comme ces fantasques ,qui portent dentelle leurs masques1 ,en chamarrent les trous des yeux1 ,croyant que le masque en est mieux4 ,in the reign of ,louis ,,xv41 point de ,france was rivalled #agh;by the productions of ,angleterre#ebg and ,malines4 ,argentan and ,alenon 7,fig4 #hc7 were declared by fashion to be dentelles d'hiver3 each lace now had its appointed season4#ebh ,on porte le point en hiver1 says the ,dictionary of the ,academy4 ,there was much etiquette1 too1 in the court of ,france1 as regards lace1 which was never worn in mourning4 ,dangeau chronicles1 on the death of the ,princess of ,baden1 ,le roi qui avoit repris les dentelles et les rubans d'or et d'argent1 reprend demain le linge uni et les rubans unis aussi4#ebi ,madame thus describes the petit deuil of the ,margrave of ,anspach3 ,avec des dentelles blanches sur le noir1 du beau ruban bleu1 dentelles blanches et noires4 ,c'etoit une parure magnifique4#ecj #agi;,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,louis ,,xvi4 ,,to ,,the ,,empire4 ,proud ,versailles6 thy glory falls4--,pope4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hd4 ,,marie-,,antoinette4--,from a picture by ,madame ,le ,brun4 ,m4 de ,versailles4 ,in the reign of ,louis ,,xvi4 society1 tired out with ceremony and the stately manners of the old court1 at last began to emancipate itself4 ,marie-,antoinette 7,fig4 #hd7 first gave the signal4 ,rid herself of the preaching of ,madame ,etiquette she could not on state occasions1 so she did her best to amuse herself in private4 ,the finest ,indian muslin now supplanted the heavy points of the old court4 ,madame du ,barry1 in her ,memoirs1 mentions the purchase of ,indian muslin so fine #ahjthat the piece did not weigh fifteen ounces1 although sufficient to make four dresses4 ,the ladies looked1 indignantly observed the ,marchale de ,luxembourg1 in their muslin aprons and handkerchiefs like cooks and convent porters4#eca ,to signify her disapproval of this new-fangled custom1 the ,marchale sent her grand-daughter1 the ,duchesse de ,lauzun1 an apron of sailcloth trimmed with fine point and six fichus of the same material similarly decorated4 ,tulle and marli#ecb were much worn during the latter years of the ,queen's life1 and entries of tulle1 marli1 blondes1 and embroidered linens occur over and over again in ,madame ,eloffe's accounts with the ,queen4 ,the richer ornamental laces were not worn1 and one reads of items such as a gauze fichu trimmed with white prtention4 ,on leaving ,versailles for the last time 7,october #fth1 #aghi71 ,marie ,antoinette distributed among her suite all that remained of her fans and laces4 ,the arrangement of the lace lappets was still preserved by rule4 ,lappets to be pinned up--lappets to be let down on grand occasions4#ecc ,later ,madame de ,stal1 like a true bas-bleu--without speaking of her curtsey to ,marie ,antoinette1 which was all wrong--on her first visit of ceremony to ,madame de ,polignac1 in defiance of all etiquette1 left her lace lappets in the carriage4 ,the democratic spirit of the age now first creeps out in #ahathe fashions4 ,among the rich parures of ,du ,barry#ecd we find barbes la paysanne--everything now becomes coquille1 papillon4 ,even the ,queen's hairdresser1 ,lonard1 qui ,portait jusques au ciel l'audace de ses coiffures1 did not venture to introduce much lace4 ,the affected phraseology of the day is very precious in its absurdity4 ,we read of the toilette of ,mademoiselle ,duth in which she appeared at the opera4 ,she wore a robe soupirs touffs1 trimmed with regrets superflus2 a point of candeur parfaite1 garnie en plaintes indiscrtes2 ribbons en attentions marques2 shoes cheveux de la reine1#ece embroidered with diamonds1 en coups perfides and venez-y-voir in emeralds4 ,her hair en sentiments soutenus1 with a cap of conqute assure1 trimmed with ribbons of oeil abattu2 a chat#ecf sur le col1 the colour of gueux nouvellement arriv1 and upon her shoulders a ,mdicis en biensance1 and her muff of agitation momentane4 ,in the accounts of ,mademoiselle ,bertin1 the ,queen's milliner1 known for her saying1 ,il n'y a rien de nouveau dans ce monde que ce qui est oubli1 we have little mention of lace4#ecg #ahb;,blond fond d',alenon sem poix1 mouches1 now usurps the place of the old points4 ,even one of the grandes dames de la vieille cour1 ,madame ,adlade de ,france herself1 is represented in her picture by ,madame ,guiard with a spotted handkerchief1 probably of blonde 7,fig4 #he74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #he4 ,,madame ,,ad,,la,,de ,,de ,,france4--,after a picture by ,madame ,guiard1 dated #aghg4 ,m4 de ,versailles4 ,the ,church alone protects the ancient fabrics4 ,the lace of the ,rohan family1 almost hereditary ,princes ,archbishops of ,strasburg1 was of inestimable value4 ,we met1 writes the ,baroness de ,oberkirch1 the cardinal coming out of his chapel dressed in a soutane of scarlet moire and rochet of ,english lace of inestimable value4 ,when on great occasions he officiates at ,versailles1 he wears an alb of old lace 'en point l'aiguille' of such beauty that his assistants were almost afraid to touch it4 ,his arms and device are worked in a medallion above the large flowers4 ,this alb is estimated at #ajj1jjj livres4 ,on the day of which ,i speak he wore the rochet of ,english lace1 one of his least beautiful1 as his #ahcsecretary1 the ,abb ,georget1 told me4#ech ,on his elevation to the see of ,bourges 7#ahei71 ,monseigneur de ,la ,tour d',auvergne celebrated mass at ,rome arrayed with all the sacerdotal ornaments of point d',alenon of the finest workmanship4 ,this lace descended to him from his uncle1 ,cardinal de ,la ,tour d',auvergne1 who had inherited it from his mother1 ,madame d',aumale1 so well known as the friend of ,madame de ,maintenon4 ,under the first ,empire1 a complete suit of lace was offered to the prelate for sale1 which had belonged to ,marie-,antoinette4 ,this lace is described as formed of squares of old point d',angleterre or de ,flandre1 each representing a different subject4 ,the beauty of the lace and its historic interest decided his ,eminence to speak of it to his colleague1 ,cardinal de ,bonald1 and these two prelates united their resources1 bought the lace1 and divided it4 ,but this extravagance and luxury were now soon to end4 ,the years of '#ib and '#ic were approaching4 ,the great nobility of ,france1 who patronised the rich manufactures of the kingdom at the expense of a peasantry starving on estates they seldom if ever visited1 were ere long outcasts in foreign countries4 ,the ,french ,revolution was fatal to the lace trade4 ,for twelve years the manufacture almost ceased1 and more than thirty different fabrics entirely disappeared4#eci ,its merits were1 however1 recognised by the ,etats ,gnraux in #aghi1 who1 when previous to meeting they settled the costume of the three estates1 decreed to the noblesse a lace cravat4 ,it was not until #ahja1 when ,napoleon wished to faire revenir le luxe1 that we again find it chronicled in the annals of the day3 ,how charming ,caroline ,murat looked in her white mantelet of point de ,bruxelles et sa robe garnie des mmes dentelles1 etc4 ,the old laces were the work of years1 and transmitted as heirlooms#edj from generation to generation4 #ahd,they were often heavy and overloaded with ornament4 ,the ancient style was now discarded and a lighter description introduced4 ,by an improvement in the point de raccroc several sections of lace were joined together so as to form one large piece2 thus ten workers could now produce in a month what had formerly been the work of years4 ,napoleon especially patronised the fabrics of ,alenon1 ,brussels1 and ,chantilly4 ,he endeavoured1 too1 without success1 to raise that of ,valenciennes4 ,after the example of ,louis ,,xiv41 he made the wearing of his two favourite points obligatory at the ,court of the ,tuileries1 and it is to his protection these towns owe the preservation of their manufactures4 ,the lace-makers spoke of the rich orders received from the imperial court as the most remarkable epoch in their industrial career4 ,never was the beauty and costliness of the laces made for the marriage of ,marie-,louise yet surpassed4 ,to reproduce them now would1 estimates ,m4 ,aubry1 cost above a million of francs4 ,napoleon was a great lover of lace3 he admired it as a work of art1 and was proud of the proficiency of his subjects4 ,mademoiselle d',avrillion relates the following anecdote3--,the ,princess ,pauline had given orders to the ,empress ,josphine's lace-maker for a dress and various objects to the value of #cj1jjj francs4 ,when the order was completed and the lace brought home1 the ,princess changed her mind and refused to take them4 ,madame ,lesoeur1 in despair1 appealed to the ,empress4 ,she1 thinking the price not unreasonable1 considering the beauty of the points1 showed them to ,napoleon1 and told him the circumstance4 ,i was in the room at the time1 writes the authoress of the ,mmoires4 ,the ,emperor examined minutely each carton1 exclaiming at intervals1 ,comme on travaille bien en ,france1 je dois encourager un pareil commerce4 ,pauline a grand tort4 ,he ended by paying the bill and distributing the laces among the ladies of the court4#eda ,indeed1 it may be said that never #ahewas lace more in vogue than during the early days of the ,empire4 ,the morning costume of a ,french duchesse of that court is described in the following terms3--,elle portait un peignoir brod en mousseline garni d'une ,angleterre trs-belle1 une fraise en point d',angleterre4 ,sur sa tte la duchesse avait jet en se levant une sorte de 'baigneuse1' comme nos mres l'auraient appele1 en point d',angleterre1 garnie de rubans de satin rose ple4#edb ,the fair sister of ,napoleon1 the ,princess ,pauline ,borghese1 s'est passionne1 as the term ran1 pour les dentelles4#edc ,that ,napoleon's example was quickly followed by the lgantes of the ,directory1 the following account1 given to the brother of the author by an elderly lady who visited ,paris during that very short period#edd when the ,english flocked to the ,continent1 of a ball at ,madame ,rcamier's1 to which she had an invitation1 will testify4 ,the ,first ,consul was expected1 and the lite of ,paris early thronged the salons of the charming hostess1 but where was ,madame ,rcamier8 ,souffrante1 the murmur ran1 retained to her bed by a sudden indisposition4 ,she would1 however1 receive her guests couche4 ,the company passed to the bedroom of the lady1 which1 as still the custom in ,france1 opened on one of the principal salons4 ,there1 in a gilded bed1 lay ,madame ,rcamier1 the most beautiful woman in ,france4 ,the bed-curtains were of the finest ,brussels lace1 bordered with garlands of honeysuckle1 and lined with satin of the palest rose4 ,the couvrepied was of the same material2 from the pillow of embroidered cambric fell des flots de ,valenciennes4 ,the lady herself wore a peignoir trimmed with the most exquisite ,english point4 ,never had she looked more lovely--never had she done the honours of her hotel more gracefully4 ,and so she received ,napoleon--so she received the heroes of that great empire4 ,all admired her fortitude1 her dvouement1 in thus sacrificing herself to society1 and on the following day tout ,paris s'est fait inscrire chez elle4 ,never had such anxiety been expressed--never had woman gained such a triumph4 #ahf,the ,duchesse d',abrants1 who married in the year #ahjj1 describing her trousseau1#ede says she had des mouchoirs1 des jupons1 des canezous du matin1 des peignoirs de mousseline de l',inde1 des camisoles de nuit1 des bonnets de nuit1 des bonnets de matin1 de toutes les couleurs1 de toutes les formes1 et tout cela brod1 garni de ,valenciennes ou de ,malines1 ou de point d',angleterre4 ,in the corbeille de mariage1 with the cachemires were les voiles de point d',angleterre1 les garnitures de robes en point l'aiguille1 et en point de ,bruxelles1 ainsi qu'en blonde pour l't4 ,il y avait aussi des robes de blonde blanche et de dentelle noire1 etc4 ,when they go to the ,mairie1 she describes her costume3 ,j'avais une robe de mousseline de l',inde brode au plumetis et en points jour1 comme c'tait alors la mode4 ,cette robe tait queue1 montante et avec de longues manches1 le l de devant entirement brod ainsi que le tour du corsage1 le bout des manches1 qu'on appelait alors amadis4 ,la fraise tait en magnifique point l'aiguille1 sur ma tte j'avais un bonnet en point de ,bruxelles4444 ,au sommet du bonnet tait attache une petite couronne de fleurs d'oranger1 d'o partait un long voile en point d',angleterre qui tombait mes pieds et dont je pouvais presque m'envelopper4 ,madame ,junot winds up by saying that ,cette profusion de riches dentelles1 si fines1 si dlies ne semblaient tre qu'un rseau nuageux autour de mon visage1 o elles se jouaient dans les boucles de mes cheveux4 ,hamlet always used to appear on the stage in lace cravat and ruffles1 and ,talma1 the ,french tragedian1 was very proud of his wardrobe of lace4 ,dr4 ,doran relates of him that on one occasion1 when stopped by the ,belgian custom-house officers at the frontier1 an official1 turning over his wardrobe1 his stage costumes1 etc41 contemptuously styled them habits de ,polichinelle4 ,talma1 in a rage exclaimed1 ,habits de ,polichinelle6 ,why1 the lace of my jabot and ruffles alone is worth fifty louis a yard1 and ,i wear it on my private costume4 ,and must pay for it accordingly1 added the official4 ,punch's clothes might pass untaxed1 but ,monsieur ,talma's lace owes duty to our king4 ,talma was forced to submit4 ,the ,french lace manufacture felt the political events of #ahgahac to #ahag1 but experienced a more severe crisis in #ahah1 when bobbin net was first made in ,france4 ,fashion at once adopted the new material1 and pillow lace was for a time discarded4 ,for fifteen years lace encountered a fearful competition4 ,the manufacturers were forced to lower their prices and diminish the produce4 ,the marts of ,europe were inundated with tulle2 but happily a new channel for exportation was opened in the ,united ,states of ,north ,america4 ,in time a reaction took place1 and in #ahcd1 with the exception of ,alenon1 all the other fabrics were once more in full activity4#edf ,but a cheaper class of lace had been introduced4 ,in #ahcb-cc cotton thread first began to be substituted for flax4#edg ,the lace-makers readily adopted the change2 they found cotton more elastic and less expensive4 ,it gives1 too1 a brilliant appearance1 and breaks less easily in the working4 ,all manufacturers now use the ,scotch cotton1 with the exception of ,alenon1 some choice pieces of ,brussels1 and the finer qualities of ,mechlin and ,valenciennes4 ,the difference is not to be detected by the eye2 both materials wash equally well4 ,we now turn to the various lace manufactures of ,france1 taking each in its order4 #ahh;,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,the ,,lace ,,manufactures ,,of ,,france4 ,france is a lace-making1 as well as a lace-wearing1 country4 ,of the half a million of lace-makers in ,europe1 nearly a quarter of a million are estimated as belonging to ,france4 ,under the impulse of fashion and luxury1 lace receives the stamp of the special style of each country4 ,italy furnished its points of ,venice and ,genoa4 ,the ,netherlands1 its ,brussels1 ,mechlin1 and ,valenciennes4 ,spain1 its silk blondes4 ,england1 its ,honiton4 ,france1 its sumptuous point d',alenon1 and its black lace of ,bayeux and ,chantilly4 ,now1 each style is copied by every nation2 and though ,france cannot compete with ,belgium in the points of ,brussels1 or the ,valenciennes of ,ypres1 she has no rival in her points of ,alenon and her white blondes1 or her black silk laces4 ,to begin with ,alenon1 the only ,french lace not made on the pillow4 ,,alen,,on 7,d,p4 ,,orne71 ,,normandy4 ,alenchon est sous ,sarthe assis1 ,il luic divise le pays4--,romant de ,rou4 ,we have already related how the manufacture of point lace was established by ,colbert4 ,the entrepreneurs had found the lace industry flourishing at the time of the point de ,france4 7,page #aee47 ,,plate ,,liv4 ,illustration3 ,,french4 ,border of ,,point ,,plat ,,de ,,france to a baptismal veil of embroidered muslin4--,the orderly arrangement of the brides differs from the ,venetian1 and foreshadows the grande maille picote4 ,in the ,muse ,cinquantenaire1 ,brussels4 ,to face page #ahh4 #ahi;,illustration3 ,fig4 #hf4 ,,colbert #afhc4--,m4 de ,versailles4 ,point d',alenon is mentioned in the ,rvolte des ,passemens1 #affa1 evidently as an advanced manufacture2 but the monopoly of the privileged workmen--the new-comers--displeased the old workwomen1 and ,colbert#edh was too despotic in his orders prohibiting to make any kind of point except that of the royal manufactory1 and made the people so indignant that they revolted4 ,the intendant1 ,favier-,duboulay1 writes to ,colbert1 ,august #affe1 that one named ,le ,prevost1 of this town1 having given suspicion to the people that he was about to form an establishment of ouvrages de fil1 the women to the number of above a thousand assembled1 and pursued him so that1 if he had not managed to escape their fury1 he would assuredly have suffered from their violence4 ,he took refuge with me1 he writes1 and ,i with difficulty appeased the multitude by assuring them that they would not be deprived of the liberty of working4 ,it is a fact that for many years the town of ,alenon subsists only by means of these small works of lace3 that the same people make and sell1 and in years of scarcity they subsist only by this little industry1 and that wishing to #aijtake away their liberty1 they were so incensed ,i had great difficulty in pacifying them4 ,the ,act1 it appears1 had come from the ,parliament of ,paris1 but as ,alenon is in ,normandy1 it was necessary to have the assent of the ,parliament of ,rouen4 ,the remonstrance of the intendant 7see his letter in ,chap4 ,,ix41 page #aee7 met with the attention it deserved4 ,on ,september #adth following1 after a meeting headed by ,prevost and the ,marquis de ,pasax1 intendant of the city1 it was settled that after the king had found #bjj girls1 the rest were at liberty to work as they pleased2 none had permission to make the fine point of the royal pattern1 except those who worked for the manufactory2 and all girls must show to the authorities the patterns they intended working1 so that the ,king shall be satisfied1 and the people gain a livelihood4 ,the matresse dentellire1 ,catherine ,marcq1 writes to ,colbert1 ,november #cjth1 #affe1 complaining of the obstinacy of the people1 who prefer the old work4 ,out of #h1jjj women1 we have got but #gjj1 and ,i can only count on #bej who at least will have learnt to perfection the ,venetian point1 the remainder merely working a month and then leaving the establishment4 ,the new points are duly chronicled4#edi ,in #afgg the ,mercure announces1 ,they make now many points de ,france without grounds1 and 'picots en campannes' to all the five handkerchiefs4 ,we have seen some with little flowers over the large1 which might be styled 'flying flowers1' being only attached in the centre4 ,in #afgh it says3 ,the last points de ,france have no brides1 the fleurons are closer together4 ,the flowers1 which are in higher relief in the centre1 and lower at the edges1 are united by small stalks and flowers1 which keep them in their places1 instead of brides4 ,the manner of disposing the branches1 called 'ordonnances1' is of two kinds3 the one is a twirling stalk1 which throws out flowers2 the other is regular--a centre flower1 throwing out regular branches on each side4 ,in ,october of the same year1 the ,mercure says3 #aia,there has been no change in the patterns1 and it does not allude to them again4 ,what can these be but ,venice patterns8 ,the flower upon flower--like fleurs volante--exactly answers to the point in high relief 7,fig4 #hg74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hg4 ,,venice ,,point4--,dentelle ,volante4 ,a memoir drawn up in #afih by ,m4 de ,pommereu#eej is the next mention we find of the fabric of ,alenon4 ,the manufacture of the points de ,france is also1 he says1 one of the most considerable in the country4 ,this fabric began at ,alenon1 where most of the women and girls work at it1 to the number of more than eight to nine hundred1 without counting those in the country1 which are in considerable numbers4 ,it is a commerce of about #ejj1jjj livres per annum4 ,this point is called 'vilain'#eea in the country2 the principal sale was in ,paris during the war1 but the demand increases very much since the peace1 in consequence of its exportation to foreign countries4 ,the number of lace-workers given by ,m4 ,pommereu appears small1 but ,alenon #aibmanufacture was then on the decline4 ,the death of its protector1 ,colbert 7#afhc71 and the ,revocation of the ,edict of ,nantes1 which reduced the population one-third1 the industrial families 7qui faisaient le principal commerce7 retiring to ,england and ,scotland1 the long wars of ,louis ,,xiv41 and1 finally1 his death in #agae1 all contributed to diminish its prosperity4#eeb ,savary1 writing in #agbf1 mentions the manufacture of ,alenon as not being so flourishing1 but attributes it to the long wars of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,he adds1 ,it still1 however1 maintains itself with some reputation at ,alenon2 the magnificence1 or1 if you like1 the luxury of ,france1 sufficing to keep it up even in war-time2 but it flourishes principally in peace1 in consequence of the large exports to foreign countries4 ,russia and ,poland were its great marts3 and before the ,revolution1 ,poland estimates the annual value of the manufacture at #aa1jjj1jjj to #ab1jjj1jjj livres4#eec ,the workwomen earned from three sous to three livres per day4 ,in #afhj1 in ,britannia ,languens1 a discourse upon trade1 it states that the laces commonly called points de ,venise now come mostly from ,france1 and amount to a vast sum yearly4 ,,plate ,,lv4 ,illustration3 ,,french4 ,,point ,d',,alen,,on4--,eighteenth century4 ,period ,louis ,,xv4 ,needle-point lappet end and border4 ,these show in combination the ,alenon1 rseau1 and the ,argentan hexagonal brides4 ,the ribands in the border show varieties of diaper pattern stitches similar to those in the modes of heavy ,venetian points4 ,widths3 lappet #d in41 border #c in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #aib4 #aic,point d',alenon is made entirely by hand1 with a fine needle1 upon a parchment pattern1 in small pieces1 afterwards united by invisible seams4 ,there are twelve processes1 including the design1 each of which is executed by a special workwoman4 ,these can again be subdivided1 until the total number of processes is twenty or twenty-two4#eed ,the design1 engraved upon a copper plate1 is printed off in divisions upon pieces of parchment ten inches long1 each numbered according to its order4 ,green parchment is now used1 and has been in vogue since #agfi1 at which date it is noted in an inventory of ,simon ,geslin 7,april #acth1 #agfi74 ,the worker is better able to detect any faults in her work than on white4 ,the pattern is next pricked upon the parchment1 which is stitched to a piece of very coarse linen folded double4 ,the outline of the pattern is then formed by two flat threads1 which are guided along the edge by the thumb of the left hand1 and fixed by minute stitches passed1 with another thread and needle1 through the holes of the parchment4 ,when the outline is finished1 the work is given over to the rseleuse to make the ground1 which is of two kinds1 bride and rseau4 ,the delicate rseau is worked backwards and forwards from the footing to the picot--of the bride1 more hereafter4 ,besides the hexagonal bride ground1 and the ground of meshes1 there was another variety of grounding used in ,alenon lace4 ,this ground consists of buttonhole-stitched skeleton hexagons1 within each of which was worked a small solid hexagon connected with the surrounding figure by means of six little tyes or brides4 ,lace with this particular ground has been called ,argentella4#eee ,in making the flowers of ,alenon point1 the worker supplies herself with a long needle and a fine thread2 with these she works the point nou 7buttonhole stitch7 from left to right1 and when arrived at the end of the flower1 the thread is thrown back from the point of departure1 and she works again from left to right over the thread4 ,this gives a closeness and evenness to the work unequalled in any other point4 ,then follow the modes1 and other different operations1 which completed1 the threads which unite lace1 #aidparchment and linen together1 are cut with a sharp razor passed between the two folds of linen1 any little defects repaired1 and then remains the great work of uniting all these segments imperceptibly together4 ,this task devolves upon the head of the fabric1 and is one requiring the greatest nicety4 ,an ordinary pair of men's ruffles would be divided into ten pieces2 but when the order must be executed quickly1 the subdivisions are even greater4 ,the stitch by which these sections are worked is termed assemblage1 and differs from the point de raccroc1 where the segments are united by a fresh row of stitches4 ,at ,alenon they are joined by a seam1 following as much as possible the outlines of the pattern4 ,when finished1 a steel instrument1 called a picot1 is passed into each flower1 to polish it and remove any inequalities in its surface4 ,the more primitive lobster-claw or a wolf's tooth was formerly used for the same purpose4 ,point d',alenon is of a solidity which defies time and washing1 and has been justly called the ,queen of ,lace4 ,it is the only lace in which horsehair is introduced along the edge to give firmness and consistency to the cordonnet1 rendered perhaps necessary to make the point stand up when exposed to wind1 mounted on the towering fabrics then worn by the ladies4 ,the objection to horsehair is that it shrinks in washing and draws up the flower from the ground4 ,it is related of a collar made at ,venice for ,louis ,,xiii4 that the lace-workers1 being unsuccessful in finding sufficiently fine horsehair1 employed some of their own hair instead1 in order to secure that marvellous delicacy of work which they aimed at producing4 ,the specimen1 says ,lefbure1 cost #bej golden cus 7about sixty pounds74 ,in #agfa1 a writer1 describing the point de ,france1 says that it does not arrive at the taste and delicacy of ,brussels1 its chief defect consisting in the thickness of the cordonnet1 which thickens when put into water4 ,the horsehair edge also draws up the ground1 and makes the lace rigid and heavy4 ,he likewise finds fault with the modes or fancy stitches of the ,alenon1 and states that much point is sent from there to ,brussels to have the modes added1 thereby giving it a borrowed beauty2 but connoisseurs1 he adds1 easily detect the difference4#eef ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hh4 ,,argentella1 ,,or ,,point ,d',,alen,,on ,r,,seau ,,rosac4--,period ,louis ,,xv4 ,to face page #aid4 #aie,when the points of ,alenon and ,argentan dropped their general designations of points de ,france#eeg it is difficult to say4 ,an eminent writer states the name was continued till the ,revolution1 but this is a mistake4 ,the last inventory in which we have found mention of point de ,france is one of #agbc1eeh while point d',argentan is noted in #agch1eei and point d',alenon in #agda1 where it is specified to be rseau4#efj ,in the accounts of ,madame du ,barry1 no point d',alenon is mentioned--always point l'aiguille--and needle point is the name by which point d',alenon was alone known in ,england during the last century4 ,the purchases of needle point of ,madame du ,barry were most extensive4 ,sleeves 7engageantes7 and lappets for #h1djj livres2 court ruffles at #a1ajj2 a mantelet at #b1djj2 a veste at #f1ejj2 a grande coffe1 #a1djj2 a garniture1 #f1jaj1 etc4#efa ,in the description of the ,department of the ,orne drawn up in #ahja1 it is stated1 ,fifteen years back there were from #g1jjj to #h1jjj lace-workers at ,alenon and its environs3 the fabric of ,argentan1 whose productions are finer and more costly1 had about #b1jjj4 ,almost all these lace-makers1 some of whom made rseau1 others the bride ground1 passed into ,england1 ,spain1 ,italy1 ,germany1 and the courts of the north1 especially to ,russia4 ,these united fabrics produced to the annual value of at least #a1hjj1jjj fr41 and when they had extraordinary orders1 such as parures for beds and other large works1 it increased to #b1jjj1jjj fr4 7#hj1jjj74 ,but this commerce1 subject to the variable empire of fashion1 had declined one-half even before the ,revolution4 ,now it is almost nothing1 and cannot be estimated at more than #aej1jjj to #bjj1jjj fr4 per annum4 ,it supported three #aif;cities and their territory1 for that of ,sez#efb bore its part4 ,some black laces are still made at ,sez1 but they are of little importance4--,p4,s4 ,these laces have obtained a little favour at the last ,leipsic fair4#efc ,the manufacture of ,alenon was nearly extinct when the patronage of ,napoleon caused it to return almost to its former prosperity4 ,among the orders executed for the ,emperor on his marriage with the ,empress ,marie ,louise1 was a bed furniture of great richness4 ,tester1 curtains1 coverlet1 pillow-cases4 ,the principal subject represented the arms of the empire surrounded by bees4 ,from its elaborate construction1 point d',alenon is seldom met with in pieces of large size2 the amount of labour therefore expended on this bed must have been marvellous4 ,mrs4 ,palliser1 when at ,alenon1 was so fortunate as to meet with a piece of the ground powdered with bees1 bought from the ancient fabric of ,mercier1 at ,lonray1 when the stock many years back was sold off and dispersed 7,fig4 #hi74 ,the point d',alenon bees are appliqu upon a pillow ground1 vrai rseau1 executed probably at ,brussels4 ,part of the quipage of the ,king of ,rome excited the universal admiration of all beholders at the ,paris ,exhibition of #ahee4 ,alenon again fell with the empire4 ,no new workers were trained1 the old ones died off1 and as it requires so many hands to execute even the most simple lace1 the manufacture again nearly died out4 ,in vain the ,duchesse d',angoulme endeavoured to revive the fabric1 and gave large orders herself2 but point lace had been replaced by blonde1 and the consumption was so small1 it was resumed on a very confined scale4 ,so low had it fallen in #ahcj1 that there were only between #bjj and #cjj lace-workers1 whose products did not exceed the value of #a1bjj francs 7#dh74 ,again1 in #ahcf1 ,baron ,mercier1 thinking by producing it a lower price to procure a more favourable sale1 set up a lace school1 and caused the girls to work the patterns on bobbin net1 as bearing some resemblance to the old point de bride1 but fashion did not favour point de bride1 so the plan failed4 ,in #ahdj fresh attempts were made to revive the #aigmanufacture4 ,two hundred aged women--all the lace-makers remaining of this once flourishing fabric--were collected and again set to work4 ,a new class of patterns was introduced1 and the manufacture once more returned to favour and prosperity4 ,but the difficulties were great4 ,the old point was made by an hereditary set of workers1 trained from their earliest infancy to the one special work they were to follow for life4 ,now new workers had to be procured from other lace districts1 already taught the ground peculiar to their fabrics4 ,the consequence was1 their fingers never could acquire the art of making the pure ,alenon rseau4 ,they made a good ground1 certainly1 but it was mixed with their own early traditions3 as the ,alenon workers say1 ,elles btardisent les fonds4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hi4 ,,bed ,,made ,,for ,,napoleon ,i4 ,in the ,exhibition of #ahea were many fine specimens of #aihthe revived manufacture4 ,one flounce1 which was valued at #bb1jjj francs1 and had taken thirty-six women eighteen months to complete1 afterwards appeared in the corbeille de mariage of the ,empress ,eugnie4 ,in #ahef most magnificent orders were given for the imperial layette1 a description of which is duly chronicled4#efd ,the young ,prince was vou au blanc2 white1 therefore1 was the prevailing colour in the layette4 ,the curtains of the ,imperial infant's cradle were of ,mechlin1 with ,alenon coverlet lined with satin4 ,the christening robe1 mantle1 and head-dress were all of ,alenon2 and the three corbeilles1 bearing the imperial arms and cipher1 were also covered with the same point4 ,twelve dozen embroidered frocks1 each in itself a work of art1 were all profusely trimmed with ,alenon1 as were also the aprons of the ,imperial nurses4 ,a costly work of ,alenon point appeared in the ,exhibition of #ahee--;a dress1 purchased by the ,emperor for #gj1jjj francs 7#b1hjj71 and presented by him to the ,empress4 ,a few observations remain to be made respecting the dates of the patterns of ,alenon point1 which1 like those of other laces1 will be found to correspond with the architectural style of decoration of the period4 ,the corbeilles de mariage preserved in old families and contemporary portraits are our surest guides4 ,in the eighteenth century the rseau ground was introduced1 and soon became universally adopted4 ,after carefully examining the engravings of the time1 the collection of historical portraits at ,versailles and other galleries1 we find no traces of ,point d',alenon with the rseau or network ground in the time of ,louis ,,xiv4 ,the laces are all of the ,venetian character1 bride1 and ,colbert himself is depicted in a cravat of ,italian design2 while1 on the other hand1 the daughters of ,louis ,,xv4 7,mesdames de ,france7 and the ,filles du ,rgent all wear rich points of ,alenon and ,argentan4#efe ,the earlier patterns of the eighteenth century are flowery and undulating#eff 7,fig4 #ia71 scarcely #aii;begun1 never ending1 into which haphazard are introduced patterns of a finer ground1 much as the medallions of ,boucher or ,vanloo were inserted in the gilded panellings of a room4 ,twined around them appear a variety of jours1 filled up with patterns of endless variety1 the whole wreathed and garlanded like the decoration of a theatre4 ,such was the taste of the day4 ,aprs moi le dluge2 and the precept of the favourite was carried out in the style of design3 an insouciance and laisser-aller typical of a people regardless of the morrow4 ,towards the latter end of the reign a change came over the national taste4 ,it appears in the architecture and domestic decoration4 ,as the cabriole legs of the chairs are replaced by the pieds de daim1 so the running patterns of the lace give place to compact and more stiff designs4 ,the flowers are rigid and angular1 of the style called bizarre1 of almost conventional form4 ,with ,louis ,,xvi4 began the ground sem with compact little bouquets1 all intermixed with small patterns1 spots 7pois71 fleurons1 rosettes1 and tears 7larmes7 7,fig4 #ij71 which towards the end of the century entirely expel the bouquets from the ground4 ,the sems continued during the ,empire4 ,this point came into the highest favour again during the ,second ,empire4 ,costly orders for trousseaux were given not only in ,france1 but from ,russia and other countries4 ,one amounted to #aej1jjj francs 7#f1jjj7--;flounce1 lappets and trimmings for the body1 pocket-handkerchief1 fan1 parasol1 all en suite1 and1 moreover1 there were a certain number of metres of aunage1 or border lace1 for the layette4 ,the making of point d',alenon being so slow1 it was impossible ever to execute it to order for this purpose4 ,great as is the beauty of the workmanship of ,alenon1 it was never able to compete with ,brussels in one respect3 its designs were seldom copied from nature1 while the fabric of ,brabant sent forth roses and honeysuckles of a correctness worthy of a ,dutch painter4 #bjj,this defect is now altered4 ,the designs of the lace are admirable copies of natural flowers1 intermixed with grasses and ferns1 which give a variety to the form of the leaves4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ij4 ,,alen,,on ,,point1 ,,petites ,,brides4--,louis ,,xvi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ia4 ,,point ,d',,alen,,on4--,louis ,,xv4 period4 ,to face page #bjj4 #bja;,alenon point is now successfully made at ,burano near ,venice1 in ,brussels1 at ,alenon itself1 and at ,bayeux1 where the fabric was introduced1 in #ahee1 by ,m4 ,auguste ,lefbure1 a manufacturer of that town4 ,departing from the old custom of assigning to each lace-maker a special branch of the work1 the lace is here executed through all its stages by the same worker4 ,perhaps the finest example of point d',alenon exhibited in #ahfg was the produce of the ,bayeux fabric2 a dress consisting of two flounces1 the pattern1 flowers1 and foliage of most artistic and harmonious design1 relieved by the new introduction of shaded tints1 giving to the lace the relief of a picture4#efg ,the ground 7point l'aiguille7 was worked with the greatest smoothness and regularity1 one of the great technical difficulties when such small pieces have to be joined together4 ,the price of the dress was #he1jjj francs 7#c1djj74 ,it took forty women seven years to complete4 ,in the ,exhibition of #ahhi in ,paris1 ,alenon itself showed the best piece of lace that had taken #af1ejj working days to make4 #bjb;,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,argentan 7,d,p4 ,,orne74 ,vous qui voulez d',argentan faire conte1 ,a sa grandeur arrter ne faut2 ,petite elle est1 mais en beaut surmonte ,maintes cits1 car rien ne lui defaut2 ,elle est assise en lieu plaisant et haut1 ,de tout ct prairie1 campaigne1 ,un fleuve aussi1 o maint poisson se baigne1 ,des bois pais1 suffisans pour nourrir ,biches et cerfs qui sont prompts courir2 ,plus y trouvez1 tant elle est bien garnie1 ,plus au besoin nature secourir ,bon air1 bon vin1 et bonne compagnie6 --,des ,maisons4 #aeag4 ,the name of the little town of ,argentan1 whose points long rivalled those of ,alenon1 is familiar to ,english ears as connected with our ,norman kings4 ,argentan is mentioned by old ,robert ,wace as sending its sons to the conquest of ,england4#efh ,it was here the mother of ,henry ,,ii4 retired in #aacj2 and the imperial eagle borne as the arms of the town is said to be a memorial of her long sojourn4 ,here the first ,plantagenet held the cour plnire1 in which the invasion of ,ireland was arranged2 and it was here he uttered those rash words which prompted his adherents to leave ,argentan to assassinate ,thomas ,becket4#efi ,but1 apart from historic recollections1 ,argentan is celebrated for its point lace4 ,a bureau for points de ,france was established at ,argentan at the same time as the bureau at ,alenon 7#affe71 and was also under the direction of ,madame ,raffy4 ,in a letter dated ,november #bcrd1 #affe1 she writes to ,colbert3 ,je suis trs satisfaite de la publication son de trompe d'un arrt qui ordonne aux ouvrires d',argentan de travailler uniquement pour la bureau de la manufacture royale4 ,,plate ,,lvi4 ,illustration3 ,illustration3 ,,point ,d',,argentan4--,modern reproduction at ,burano of the flounce now belonging to the ,crown of ,italy1 said formerly to have belonged to ,paul de ,gondy1 ,cardinal de ,retz #afad-gi4 ,this is evidently wrong1 as the design and execution is of fifty years later date1 but it is a fine specimen of an ecclesiastical flounce4 ,height1 #bd in4 ,photo by ,burano ,school4 ,between pages #bjb and #bjc4 #bjc,point d',argentan has been thought to be especially distinguished by its hexagonally-arranged brides2 but this has also been noticed as a peculiarity of certain ,venetian point laces4 ,the bride ground1 to which we have before alluded in the notice of ,alenon1 was of very elaborate construction1 and consists of a large six-sided mesh1 worked over with the buttonhole stitch4 ,it was always printed on the parchment pattern1 and the upper angle of the hexagon is pricked4 ,after the hexagon is formed1 by passing the needle and thread round the pins in a way too complicated to be worth explaining1 the six sides are worked over with seven or eight buttonhole stitches in each side4 ,the bride ground was consequently very strong4 ,it was much affected in ,france2 the rseau was more preferred abroad4#egj ,at the present time1 it is usual to consider the point d',alenon as a lace with a fine rseau1 the mesh of which is more square than hexagonal in form1 worked by looped stitches across horizontal lines of thread1 with the flower or ornament worked in fine point stitches1 closely resembling the gimp or ornament in the point de ,venise rseau1 and outlined by a cordonnet of the finest buttonhole stitches worked over a horsehair or threads1 while point d',argentan is a lace with similar work as regards flower1 ornament1 and cordonnet1 but with a hexagonal bride ground1 each side of the hexagon being of the finest buttonhole stitchings4 ,regarding the date of the introduction of the rseau1 the large hexagonal grande bride would appear to follow from the points de ,venise1 ,argentan being named before ,alenon rseau4 ,madame ,despierres1 however1 is of opinion that ,argentan simplified the usual rseau by adopting the bride tortill 7i4e41 twisting the threads round each mesh instead of the more arduous buttonhole stitching74 ,alenon would then #bjd;have copied back the petites brides of small hexagonal twisted or buttonholed meshes in ,louis ,,xvi4's reign4 ,to this again succeeded the looped rseau of very thick thread4 ,with the view of showing that ,alenon and ,argentan were intimately connected the one with the other in the manufacture of lace1 ,m4 ,dupont says that1 whereas considerable mention has been made in various records of the establishment at ,alenon of a lace factory1 trace of such records with regard to ,alenon cannot be found4 ,a family of thread and linen dealers1 by name ,monthulay1 are credited with the establishment of a branch manufactory or succursale for lace at ,argentan4 ,the ,monthulays1 then1 sowed ,alenon seeds at ,argentan1 which developed into the so-called ,argentan lace4 ,in almost all respects it is the same as ,alenon work4#ega ,the two towns1 separated by some ten miles1 had communications as frequent as those which passed between ,alenon and the little village of ,vimoutier1 eighteen miles distant1 where one workman in particular produced what is known as the true ,alenon lace4 ,if a work were made at ,argentan1 it was called ,argentan1 if at ,alenon1 ,alenon1 though both might have been produced from the same designs4 ,in #agjh1 the manufacture had almost fallen to decay1 when it was raised by one ,sieur ,mathieu ,guyard1 a merchant mercer at ,paris1 who states that his ancestors and himself had for more than #abj years been occupied in fabricating black silk and white thread lace in the environs of ,paris4 ,he applies to the council of the king for permission to re-establish the fabric of ,argentan and to employ workwomen to the number of #fjj4 ,he asks for exemption from lodging soldiers1 begs to have the royal arms placed over his door1 and stipulates that ,monthulay1 his draughtsman and engraver1 shall be exempted from all taxes except the capitation4 ,the ,arrt obtained by ,guyard is dated ,july #bdth1 #agjh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ib4 ,,point ,d',,argentan4 ,to face page #bjd4 #bje;,guyard's children continued the fabric4 ,monthulay went over to another manufacturer1 and was replaced in #agae by ,jacques ,james1 who1 in his turn1 was succeeded by his daughter1 and she took as her partner one ,sieur ,de ,la ,leu4 ,other manufactures set up in competition with ,guyard's2 among others that of ,madame ,wyriot1 whose factor1 ,du ,ponchel1 was in open warfare with the rival house4 ,the marriage of the ,dauphin1 in #agdd1 was a signal for open hostilities4 ,du ,ponchel asserted that ,mademoiselle ,james enticed away his workmen1 and claimed protection1 on the ground that he worked for the king and the court4 ,but on the other side1 ,it is ,i1 writes ,de ,la ,leu to the intendant1 on behalf of ,mademoiselle ,james1 that supply the ',chambre du ,roi' for this year1 by order of the ,duke de ,richelieu4 ,i too have the honour of furnishing the ',garderobe du ,roi1' by order of the grand master1 the ,duke de ,la ,rochefoucault4 ,besides which1 ,i furnish the ,king and ,queen of ,spain1 and at this present moment am supplying lace for the marriage of the ,dauphin4#egb ,du ,ponchel rejoins1 that he had to execute two 'toilettes et leurs suites1 nombre de bourgognes#egc et leurs suites' for the ,queen1 and also a cravat1 all to be worn on the same occasion4 ,du ,ponchel appears to have had the better interest with the controller-general2 for the quarrel ended in a prohibition to the other manufacturers to molest the women working for ,du ,ponchel1 though the ,maison ,guyard asked for reciprocity1 and maintained that their opponents had suborned and carried off more than a hundred of their hands4#egd ,the number of lace-makers in the town of ,argentan and its environs at this period amounted to nearly #a1bjj4 ,in a list of #aaa who worked for the ,maison ,guyard appear the #bjfnames of many of the good bourgeois families of the county of ,alenon1 and even some of noble birth1 leading one to infer that making point lace was an occupation not disdained by ladies of poor but noble houses4 ,de ,la ,leu1 who1 by virtue of an ordinance1 had set up a manufacture on his own account1 applies1 in #agde1 to have #bjj workwomen at ,argentan1 and #bjj at ,carrouges1 delivered over to his factor1 in order that he may execute works ordered for the ,king and the ,dauphin for the approaching ftes of ,christmas4 ,this time the magistrate resists4 ,i have been forced to admit1 he writes to the intendant1 that the workmen cannot be transferred by force4 ,we had an example when the layette of the ,dauphin was being made4 ,you then gave me the order to furnish a certain number of women who worked at these points to the late ,sieur de ,monthulay4 ,a detachment of women and girls came to my house1 with a female captain 7capitaine femelle7 at their head1 and all with one accord declared that if forced to work they would make nothing but cobbling 7bousillage74 ,partly by threats1 and partly by entreaty1 ,i succeeded in compelling about a dozen to go1 but the ,sieur de ,monthulay was obliged to discharge them the next day4#ege ,i am therefore of opinion that the only way is for ,m4 ,de ,la ,leu to endeavour to get some of the workwomen to suborn others to work for him under the promise of higher wages than they can earn elsewhere4 ,m4 ,de ,la ,leu agrees with me there is no other course to pursue2 and ,i have promised him that1 in case any appeal is made to me1 ,i shall answer that things must be so1 as the work is doing for the king4 ,from this period we have scarcely any notices concerning the fabric of ,argentan4 ,in #agfc the widow ,louvain endeavoured to establish at ,mortagne 7,orne7 a manufacture of lace like that of ,alenon and ,argentan1 and proposed to send workers from these two towns to teach the art gratuitously to the girls of ,mortagne4 ,we do not know what became of her project2 but at the same period the ,epoux ,malbiche de ,boislaunay applied for permission to establish an office at ,argentan1 with the ordinary exemptions1 under the title of ,royal ,manufacture4 ,the title and exemptions were refused4 ,there were then 7#agfc7 at ,argentan three manufactures of point de ,france1 without counting the general hospital of ,st4 ,louis1 in which it was made for the profit of the institution1 and evidently with success2 for in #agfd1 a widow ,roger was in treaty with the hospital to teach her two daughters the fabrication of point d',argentan4 ,they were to be boarded1 and give six years of their time4 ,the fine on non-performance was #hj livres4 ,in #agha1 the ,sieur ,gravelle ,desvalles made a fruitless application to establish a manufacture at ,argentan2 nor could even the children of the widow ,wyriot obtain a renewal of the privilege granted to their mother4#egf ,gravelle was ruined by the ,revolution1 and died in #ahcj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ic4 ,,point ,d',,argentan4--,grande bride ground4 ,eighteenth century4 ,to face page #bjf4 #bjg;,arthur ,young1 in #aghh1 estimates the annual value of ,argentan point at #ejj1jjj livres4 ,taking these data1 we may fix the reigns of ,louis ,,xv4 and ,louis ,,xvi4 as the period when point d',argentan was at its highest prosperity4 ,it appears in the inventories of the personages of that time2 most largely in the accounts of ,madame du ,barry 7from #agfi to #aggc71 who patronized ,argentan equally with point d',angleterre and point l'aiguille4 ,in #aggb1 she pays #e1gdj francs for a complete garniture4 ,lappets1 flounces1 engageantes1 collerettes1 aunages1 fichus1 are all supplied to her of this costly fabric4#egg ,one spcialit in the ,argentan point is the bride picote1 a remnant1 perhaps1 of the early ,venetian teaching4 ,it consists of the six-sided button-hole bride1 fringed with a little row of three or four picots or pearls round each side4 ,it was also called bride pingle1 because pins were pricked in the parchment pattern1 to form these picots or boucles 7loops7 on2 hence it was sometimes styled bride boucle4#egh #bjh,the caille de poisson rseau was also much used at ,alenon and ,argentan4 ,the manner of making bride picote is entirely lost4 ,attempts were made to recover the art some years since 7#ahfi71 and an old workwoman was found who had made it in her girlhood1 but she proved incapable of bringing the stitch back to her memory1 and the project was given up4#egi ,point d',argentan disappeared1 and was re-established in #agjh2 but though a few specimens were produced at the ,exhibition of ,industry in #ahjh1 the industry died out in #ahaj4ehj ,it was again revived with some success by ,m4 ,m4 ,lefbure in #ahgd4 ,in ,january #ahgd1 with the assistance of the mayor1 he made a search in the greniers of the ,htel ,dieu1 and discovered three specimens of point d',argentan in progress on the parchment patterns4 ,one was of bold pattern with the grande bride ground1 evidently a man's ruffle2 the other had the barette or bride ground of point de ,france2 the third picote1 showing that the three descriptions of lace were made contemporaneously at ,argentan4 ,the author of a little pamphlet on ,argentan1 ,m4 ,eugne#eha de ,lonlay1 remembers having seen in his youth in the ,holy week1 in the churches of ,st4 ,martin and ,st4 ,germain1 the statues of the apostles covered from head to foot with this priceless point4 ,argentan is now much made at ,burano4 ,plate ,,lvi4 illustrates one of their fine reproductions4 ,,plate ,,lvii4 ,illustration3 ,,french4 ,,point ,d',,argentan4--,eighteenth century4 ,period ,louis ,,xv4 ,needle-point borders4 ,both these have the hexagonal ground of the genre ,argentan4 ,the upper one is chiefly filled in with the oeil de perdrix or rseau rosac4 ,width1 #c-c_/h in4 ,the lower one has been pieced together4 ,width1 #g in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #bjh4 #bji;,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,isle ,,de ,,france4--,,paris 7,d,p4 ,,seine74 ,quelle heure est-il8 ,pass midi4 ,qui vous l'a dit8 ,une petite souris4 ,que fait-elle8 ,de la dentelle4 ,pour qui8 ,la reine de ,paris4--,old ,nursery ,song4 ,early in the seventeenth century1 lace was extensively made in the environs of ,paris1 at ,louvres1 ,gisors1 ,villiers-le-,bel1 ,montmorency1 and other localities4 ,of this we have confirmation in a work#ehb published #afcd1 in which1 after commenting upon the sums of money spent in ,flanders for ouvrages et passemens1#ehc tant de point coupp que d'autres1 which the king had put a stop to by the sumptuary law of #afcc1 the author says3--,pour empescher icelle despence1 il y a toute l',isle de ,france et autres lieux qui sont remplis de plus de dix mille familles dans lesquels les enfans de l'un et l'autre sexe1 ds l'ge de dix ans ne sont instruits qu' la manufacture desdits ouvrages1 dont il s'en trouve d'aussi beaux et bien faits que ceux des trangers2 les ,espagnols1 qui le savent1 ne s'en fournissent ailleurs4 ,who first founded the lace-making of the ,isle de ,france it is difficult to say2 a great part of it was in the hands of the ,huguenots1 leading us to suppose it formed one of the numerous industries introduced or encouraged by #baj;,henry ,,iv4 and ,sully4 ,point de ,paris1 mignonette1 bisette1 and other narrow cheap laces were made1 and common guipures were also fabricated at ,st4 ,denis1 couen1 and ,groslay4 ,from #affe to the ,french ,revolution1 the exigencies of fashion requiring a superior class of lace1 the workwomen arrived gradually at making point of remarkable fineness and superior execution4 ,the lappet 7,fig4 #id7 is a good example of the delicacy of the fine point de ,paris4 ,the ground resembles the fond chant1 the six-pointed star meshed rseau4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #id4 ,,point ,,de ,,paris4--,reduced4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ie4 ,,point ,,de ,,france4--,bobbin lace4 ,seventeenth century4 ,with portraits of ,louis ,,xiv4 and ,marie ,thrse4 ,mrs4 ,palliser gives this illustration the above designation in her last edition2 in her former ones1 that of ,flemish lace4 ,the lace has lately come into the possession of ,mr4 ,arthur ,blackborne4 ,it appears to be ,flemish work made for the ,french ,queen4 ,to face page #baj4 #baa,savary1 who wrote in #agbf1 mentions how1 in the ,chteau de ,madrid1 there had long existed a manufacture of points de ,france4#ehd ,a second fabric was established by the ,comte de ,marsan1#ehe in ,paris1 towards the end of the same century4 ,having brought over from ,brussels his nurse1 named ,dumont1 with her four daughters1 she asked him1 as a reward for the care she had bestowed upon him in his infancy1 to obtain for her the privilege of setting up in ,paris a manufactory of point de ,france4 ,colbert granted the request3 ,dumont was established in the ,faubourg ,st4 ,antoine--classic land of embroidery from early times--cited in the ,rvolte des ,passemens1 ,telle ,broderie qui n'avoit jamais est plus loin que du ,faubourg ,s4 ,antoine au ,louvre4 ,a cent ,suisse of the king's was appointed as guard before the door of her house4 ,in a short time ,dumont had collected more than #bjj girls1 among whom were several of good birth1 and made beautiful lace called point de ,france4 ,her fabric was next transferred to ,rue ,saint ,sauveur1 and subsequently to the ,htel ,saint-,chaumont1 near the ,porte ,st4 ,denis4 ,dumont afterwards went to ,portugal1 leaving her fabric under the direction of ,mademoiselle de ,marsan4 ,but1 adds the historian1 as fashion and taste often change in ,france1 people became tired of this point4 ,it proved difficult to wash2 the flowers had to be raised each time it was cleaned2 it was thick and unbecoming to the face4 ,points d',espagne were now made instead1 with small flowers1 which1 being very fine1 was more suitable for a lady's dress4 ,lastly1 the taste for ,mechlin lace coming in1 the manufacture of ,dumont was entirely given up4#ehf ,in the time of ,louis ,,xiv4 the commerce of lace was distributed in different localities of ,paris1 as we learn from the ,livre ,commode#ehg already quoted4 ,the gold laces1 forming of themselves a special commerce1 had their shops in the rue des ,bourdonnais 7in which silk laces were especially sold7 and the rue ,sainte-,honor1 entre la place aux ,chats et les piliers des ,halles1 while the rue ,btizy retained for itself the spcialit of selling points et dentelles4 ,the gold and silver laces of ,paris1 commonly known as points d',espagne1#ehh often embellished with pearls and other #babornaments1 were for years renowned throughout all ,europe2 and1 until the revocation of the ,edict of ,nantes1 an object of great commerce to ,france4 ,its importance is shown by the sumptuary edicts of the seventeenth century forbidding its use1 and also by its mention in the ,rvolte des ,passemens4 ,it was made on the pillow4 ,much was exported to ,spain and the ,indies4 ,how those exiled workmen were received by the ,protestant princes of ,europe1 and allowed to establish themselves in their dominions1 to the loss of ,france and the enrichment of the lands of their adoption1 will be told in due time1 when we touch on the lace manufactures of ,holland and ,germany4 7,plate ,,lviii47 ,since #aghd1 little lace has been made in ,paris itself1 but a large number of lace-makers are employed in applying the flowers of ,binche and ,mirecourt upon the bobbin-net grounds4 ,,chantilly 7,d,p4 ,,oise74 ,dans sa pompe lgante admirez ,chantilli1 ,de hros en hros1 d'ge en ge embelli4 --,delille4 ,les ,jardins4 ,although there long existed lace-makers in the environs of ,paris1 the establishment for which ,chantilly was celebrated owes its formation to ,catherine de ,rohan1 ,duchesse de ,longueville1 who sent for workwomen from ,dieppe and ,havre to her chteau of trepagny1 where she retired at the beginning of the seventeenth century1 and established schools4 ,the town of ,chantilly1 being the centre of a district of lace-makers1 has given its name to the laces of the surrounding district1 the trade being distributed over more than a hundred villages1 the principal of which are ,saint-,maximien1 ,viarmes1 ,mric1 ,luzarches1 and ,dammartin4 ,the proximity to ,paris1 affording a ready sale for its productions1 caused the manufacture to prosper1 and the narrow laces which they first made--gueuse and point de ,paris--were soon replaced by guipures1 white thread1 and black silk lace4#ehi ,,plate ,,lviii4 ,illustration3 ,,french 7,,or ,,dutch74--,borders of gold and silver thread and gimp lace4 ,eighteenth century4 ,from the ,treasury of ,st4 ,mary's ,church1 ,dantzig4 ,widths3 #a-a_/h1 #a and #d in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #bab4 #bac,some twenty years since there dwelt at ,chantilly an elderly lady1 grand-daughter of an old proprietor1 who had in her possession one of the original pattern-books of the fabric1 with autograph letters of ,marie ,antoinette1 the ,princess de ,lamballe1 and other ladies of the court1 giving their orders and expressing their opinion on the laces produced4 ,we find in the inventories of the last century1 coffure de cour de dentelle de soye noire1 mantelet garni de dentelles noires1 a petite duchesse et une respectueuse1 and other coffes1 all of dentelle de soye noire4#eij ,white blonde appears more sparingly4 ,the ,duchesse de ,duras has une paire de manchettes trois rangs1 deux fichus et deux paires de sabots en blonde4#eia ,the latter to wear1 probably1 with her robe en singe4 ,du ,barry purchases more largely4#eib ,see pages #aha1 #ahb1 and #bbd4 ,fig4 #if is a specimen taken from the above-mentioned pattern-book2 the flowers and ground are of the same silk1 the flowers worked en grill 7see ,chap4 ,,iii41 grill71 or open stitch1 instead of the compact tissue of the blondes mates1 of the ,spanish style4 ,the cordonnet is a thicker silk strand1 flat and untwisted4 ,this is essentially ,chantilly lace4 ,the fillings introduced into the flowers and other ornaments in ,chantilly lace are mesh grounds of old date1 which1 according to the district where they were made1 are called vitr1 mariage1 and cinq trous4 ,chantilly first created the black silk lace industry1 and deservedly it retains her name1 whether made there or in ,calvados4 ,chantilly black lace has always been made of silk1 but from its being a grenadine1 not a shining silk1 a common error prevails that it is of thread1 whereas black thread lace has never been made #bad;either at ,chantilly or ,bayeux4 ,the distinguishing feature of this lace is the fond chant 7an abbreviation of ,chantilly71 the six-pointed star rseau1 or1 as it is better described1 a diamond crossed by two horizontal threads4 ,chantilly fell with '#ic4 ,being considered a ,royal fabric1 and its productions made for the nobility alone1 its unfortunate lace-workers became the victims of revolutionary fury1 and all perished1 with their patrons1 on the scaffold4 ,we hear no more of the manufacture until the ,empire1 a period during which ,chantilly enjoyed its greatest prosperity4 ,in #ahje1 white blonde became the rage in ,paris1 and the workwomen were chiefly employed in its fabrication4 ,the ,chantilly laces were then in high repute1 and much exported1 the black1 especially1 to ,spain and her ,american colonies2 no other manufactories could produce mantillas1 scarfs1 and other large pieces of such great beauty4 ,it was then they made those rich large-patterned blondes called by the ,french blondes mates1 by the ,spaniards trapeada1 the prevailing style since the ,first ,empire4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #if4 ,,chantilly4--,reduced4--,from one of the ,order ,books1 temp4 ,louis ,,xvi4 ,about #ahce black lace again came into vogue1 and the lace-makers were at once set to work at making black silk laces with double ground1 and afterwards they revived the hexagonal ground of the last century1 called fond d',alenon1#eic for the production of which they are celebrated4 ,the lace industry has been driven away from ,chantilly by the increase in the price of labour consequent on its vicinity to the capital4 ,the lace manufacturers1 unable to #baepay such high salaries1 retired to ,gisors1 where in #ahea there were from #h1jjj to #i1jjj lace-makers4 ,they continued to make the finest lace some years longer at ,chantilly2 but now she has been supplanted by the laces of ,calvados1 ,caen1 and ,bayeux1 which are similar in material and in mode of fabrication4 ,the generally so-called ,chantilly shawls are the production of ,bayeux4 #baf;,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,normandy4 ,dangling thy hands like bobbins before thee4 --,congreve1 ,way of the ,world4 ,,seine ,,inf,,rieure4 ,lace forms an essential part of the costume of the ,normandy peasants4 ,the wondrous ,bourgoin1#eid with its long lappets of rich lace1 descended from generation to generation1 but little varied from the cornettes of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries 7,fig4 #ig74 ,the countrywomen wore their lace at all times1 when it was not replaced by the cotton nightcap1 without much regard to the general effect of their daily clothes4 ,madame the hostess1 writes a traveller in #agci1 made her appearance in long lappets of bone lace1 with a sack of linsey wolsey4 ,the manufactures of the ,pays de ,caux date from the beginning of the sixteenth century4 ,it appears to have been the first centre in ,normandy1 as in #affa ,havre laces occur in the ,rvolte des ,passemens4 ,lace-making was the principal occupation of the wives and daughters of the mariners and fishermen4 ,in #afib1 ,m4 de ,sainte-,aignan1 governor of ,havre1 found it employed #bj1jjj women4#eie #bag;,illustration3 ,fig4 #ig4 ,,cauchoise4--,from an engraving of the eighteenth century4 ,it was in the province of ,normandy1 as comprised in its ancient extent1 that the lace trade made the most rapid increase in the eighteenth century4 ,from ,arras to ,st4 #bah,malo more than thirty centres of manufacture established themselves1 imitating with success the laces of ,mechlin2 the guipures of ,flanders2 the fond clair1 or single ground1 then called point de ,bruxelles2 point de ,paris2 black thread laces1 and also those guipures enriched with gold and silver1 so much esteemed for church ornament4 ,the manufactures of ,havre1 ,honfleur1 ,bolbec1 ,eu1 ,fcamp1 and ,dieppe were most thriving4 ,they made double and single grounds1 guipure1 and a kind of thick ,valenciennes1 such as is still made in the little town of ,honfleur and its environs4 ,in #afib the number of lace-makers at ,havre and its environs was not less than #bb1jjj4 ,corneille1#eif #agjg1 declares the laces of ,havre to be trs recherches2 and in an engraving1 #afhh1 representing a marchande lingre en sa boutique1#eig among the stock in trade1 together with the points of ,spain and ,england1 are certain cartons labelled ,point du ,havre4 ,it appears also in the inventory of ,colbert1 who considered it worthy of trimming his pillow-cases and his camisoles2#eih and ,madame de ,simiane#eii had two toilettes garnies de dentelle du ,hvre1 with an estuy peigne1 en suite4 ,next in rank to the points du ,havre came the laces of ,dieppe and its environs1 which1 says an early writer of the eighteenth century1 rivalled the industrie of ,argentan and ,caen4 ,the city of ,dieppe alone1 with its little colony of ,saint-,nicolas-d',aliermont 7a village two leagues distant1 inhabited by the descendants of a body of workmen who retired from the bombardment of ,dieppe71#fjj employed #d1jjj lace-makers4 ,a writer in #agfafja says1 ,a constant trade is that of laces1 which yield only in precision of design and fineness to those of ,mechlin2 but it has never been so considerable as it was at the end of the seventeenth century4 ,although it has slackened since about #agde for the amount of its productions1 which have diminished in value1 it has not altogether fallen4 ,as this work is the occupation of women and girls1 a great number of whom have no other means of subsistence1 there is also a large number of dealers who buy their laces1 to send them into other parts of the kingdom1 to ,spain1 and the islands of ,america4 ,this trade is free1 without any corporation2 but those who make lace without being mercers cannot sell lace thread1 the sale of which is very lucrative4#fjb ,,plate ,,lix4 ,illustration3 ,,french1 ,,chantilly4 ,,flounce1 ,,black ,,silk1 ,,bobbin-,,made4--,much reduced4 ,,plate ,,lx4 ,illustration3 ,,french1 ,,le ,,puy4 ,,black ,,silk ,,guipure1 ,,bobbin-,,made4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden from laces the property of ,mr4 ,arthur ,blackborne4 ,to face page #bah4 #bai;,illustration3 ,fig4 #ih4 ,,petit ,,poussin4--,dieppe4 ,about twenty years later we read1 ,the lace manufacture1 which is very ancient1 has much diminished since the points1 embroidered muslins1 and gauzes have gained the preference2 yet good workers earn sufficient to live comfortably2 but those who have not the requisite dexterity would do well to seek some other trade1 as inferior lace-workers are unable to earn sufficient for a maintenance4#fjc ,m4 ,feret writes in #ahbd1fjd ,dieppe laces are in little request2 nevertheless there is a narrow kind1 named 'poussin1' the habitual resource and work of the poor lace-makers of this town1 and which recommends itself by its cheapness and pleasing effect when used as a trimming to collars and morning dresses4 ,strangers who visit our town make an ample provision of this lace 7,fig4 #ih74 ,the lace-makers of ,dieppe love to give their own #bbjnames to their different laces--vierge1 ,ave ,maria1 etc4 7,fig4 #ii7--;and the designation of ,poussin 7chicken7 is given to the lace in question from the delicacy of its workmanship4 ,point de ,dieppe 7,fig4 #ajj7 much resembles ,valenciennes1 but is less complicated in its make4 ,it requires much fewer bobbins1 and whereas ,valenciennes can only be made in lengths of eight inches without detaching the lace from the pillow1 the ,dieppe point is not taken off1 but rolled4#fje ,it is now no longer made4 ,in #ahbf a lace school was established at ,dieppe1 under the direction of two sisters from the ,convent of ,la ,providence at ,rouen1 patronized by the ,duchesse de ,berri1 the ,queen of the ,french1 and the ,empress ,eugnie4 ,the exertions of the sisters have been most successful4 ,in #ahdb they received the gold medal for having1 by the substitution of the ,valenciennes for the old ,dieppe stitch1 introduced a new industry into the department4 ,they make ,valenciennes of every width1 and are most expert in the square grounds of the ,belgian ,valenciennes1 made entirely of flax thread1 unmixed with cotton1 and at most reasonable prices4#fjf ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ii4 ,,ave ,,maria4--,dieppe4 ,a very pretty double-grounded old ,normandy lace1 greatly used for caps1 was generally known under the name of ,dentelle la ,vierge 7,fig4 #aja74 ,we find only one mention of a lace so designated1 and that in the inventory made in #aghe1 after the death of ,louis-,philippe1 ,duke of #bba,orleans1 the father of ,egalit1 where in his chapel at ,villers-,cotterets is noted1 ,une aube en baptiste garnie en gros point de dentelle dite la ,vierge4#fjg ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajj4 ,,point ,,de ,,dieppe4--,bobbin-made4 ,the lace of ,eu1 resembling ,valenciennes1 was much esteemed4 ,located on the site of a royal chteau1 the property of the ,duc de ,penthivre1 himself a most enthusiastic lover of fine point1 as his wardrobe accounts testify1 the #bbblace-makers received1 no doubt1 much patronage and encouragement from the seigneur of the domain4 ,in the family picture by ,vanloo1 known as the ,tasse de ,chocolat1 containing portraits of the ,duc de ,penthivre1 his son1 and the unfortunate ,princesse de ,lamballe1 together with his daughter1 soon to be ,duchess of ,orleans1 the duke1 who is holding in his hand a medal1 enclosed in a case1 wears a lace ruffle of ,valenciennes pattern1 probably the fabric of his own people 7,fig4 #ajb74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aja4 ,,dentelle ,,la ,,vierge4 #bbc;,arthur ,young1 in #aghh1 states the wages of the lace-makers seldom exceed from seven or eight sous per day2 some few1 he adds1 may earn fifteen4 ,previous to the ,revolution1 the lace made at ,dieppe amounted to #djj1jjj francs annually4 ,but ,normandy experienced the shock of #agij4 ,dieppe had already suffered from the introduction of foreign lace when the ,revolution broke out in all its fury4 ,the points of ,havre1 with the fabrics of ,pont-l',evque 7,dp4 ,calvados71 ,harfleur1 ,eu1 and more than ten other neighbouring towns1 entirely disappeared4 ,those of ,dieppe and ,honfleur alone trailed on a precarious existence4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajb4 ,,duc ,,de ,,penthi,,vre4--,vanloo4 ,m4 de ,versailles4 ,,calvados4 ,the principal lace centres in the department of ,calvados are ,caen and ,bayeux4 ,from an early date both black and white thread laces were made1 of which the former was most esteemed4 ,it was not until #agde that the blondes made their appearance4 ,the first silk used for the new production was of its natural colour1 crue1 hence these laces were called blondes4#fjh #bbd,the blonde of the time of ,marie ,antoinette is a very light fabric with spots or outline threads of thicker silk forming a pattern4 ,later1 in the time of the ,empire1 the ,spanish style came into vogue4 ,the eighteenth-century patterns were again copied at ,caen in the middle of the nineteenth century4 ,after a time silk was procured of a more suitable white1 and those beautiful laces produced1 which before long became of such commercial importance4 ,a silk throwster1 ,m4 ,duval1 was in a great degree the originator of the success of the ,caen blondes1 having been the first to prepare those brilliant white silks which have made their reputation4 ,the silk is procured from ,bourg-,argental1 in the ,cevennes4 ,the ,caen workers made the ,chantilly lace1 ,grill blanc1 already described1#fji and also the blonde de ,caen1 in which the flower is made with a different silk from that which forms the rseau and outlined with a thick silk strand4 ,the rseau is of the ,lille type1 fond simple4 ,it is this kind of blonde which is so successfully imitated at ,calais4 ,lastly the blonde mate1 or ,spanish1 already mentioned4 ,in no other place1 except ,chantilly1 have the blondes attained so pure a white1 such perfect workmanship1 such lightness1 such brilliancy as the ,blondes de ,caen4 ,they had great success in ,france1 were extensively imported1 and made the fortune of the surrounding country1 where they were fabricated in every cottage4 ,not every woman can work at the white lace4 ,those who have what is locally termed the haleine grasse1 are obliged to confine themselves to black4 ,in order to preserve purity of colour1 the lace-makers work during the summer months in the open air1 in winter in lofts over their cow-houses3 warmed by the heat of the animals1 they dispense with fire and its accompanying smoke4#faj ,generally1 it was only made in summer1 and the black reserved for winter work4 ,peuchet speaks of white lace being made in ,caen from the lowest price to twenty-five livres the ell4#faa ,according to ,arthur ,young1 the earnings #bbeof the blonde-workers were greater than those of ,dieppe or ,havre1 a woman gaining daily from fifteen to thirty sous4 ,the silk blonde trade did not suffer from the crisis of #ahba to '#cb3 when the thread-lace-makers were reduced to the brink of ruin by the introduction of bobbin net1 the demand for blonde1 on the contrary1 had a rapid increase1 and ,caen exported great quantities1 by smuggling1 to ,england4 ,the blonde-makers earning twenty-five per cent4 more than the thread-lace-makers1 the province was in full prosperity4 ,the competition with the machine-made blondes of ,calais and ,nottingham has caused the manufacture of the white blondes to be abandoned1 and the ,caen lace-makers have now confined themselves to making black lace4 ,caen also produces gold and silver blondes1 mixed sometimes with pearls4 ,in #ahdg the laces of ,caen alone employed more than #ej1jjj persons1 or one-eighth of the whole population of ,calvados4 ,bayeux formerly made only light thread laces--mignonette1 and what ,peuchet calls#fab point de ,marli4 ,on ne voit dans ces dentelles1 he writes1 que du rseau de diverses espces1 du fond et une canetille gros fil1 qu'on conduit autour de ces fonds4 ,marli1 styled in the ,dictionary of ,napolon ,landais a tissu jour en fil et en soie fabriqu sur le mtier faire de la gaze1 was in fact the predecessor of tulle4 ,it was invented about #agfe1fac and for twenty years had great success1 and was much worn by ,marie ,antoinette4 ,when the mesh ground with an edging of loops1 which constituted this lace in the decadence of ,louis ,,xvi41 had a pattern1 it was pois1 rosettes1 or the spots of point d'esprit4 ,in the ,tableau de ,paris1 #aghb1 we read that ,marli employed a great number of workpeople1 et l'on a vu des soldats valides et invalides faire le marli1 le promener1 l'offrir1 et le vendre eux-mmes4 ,des soldats faire le marli6 ,it was to this ,marli1 or large pieces of white thread net1 that ,bayeux owed its reputation4 ,no other fabric could produce them at so low a price4 ,bayeux alone made albs1 shawls1 and other articles of large size1 of thread lace4 #bbf,lace was first made at ,bayeux in the convents and schools1 under the direction of the nuns of ,la ,providence4 ,the nuns were sent there at the end of the seventeenth century1 to undertake the supervision of the work-room founded by the ,canon ,baucher1 in the old church of ,s4 ,george4 ,in #agdg the ,abb ,suhard de ,loucelles provided additional rooms for them in a house in the ,faubourg ,st4 ,loup1 close by the church of ,notre ,dame de la ,poterie4 ,in a short time more than #djj young women were employed at the two sets of work-rooms1 and in #ageh the aldermen of the town presented to the intendant of the province a pair of thread lace cuffs1 which1 according to the accounts of the municipality1 cost #add livres4 ,it was not until #agdj that a commercial house was established by ,m4 ,clment2 from which period the manufacture has rapidly increased1 and is now one of the most important in ,france4 ,the black laces of ,caen1 ,bayeux1 and ,chantilly1 are alike2 the design and mode of fabrication being identical1 it is almost impossible1 for even the most experienced eye1 to detect the difference4 ,they are mostly composed of piece goods1 shawls1 dresses1 flounces1 and veils1 made in small strips1 united by the stitch already alluded to1 the point de raccroc1 to the invention of which ,calvados owes her prosperity4 ,this stitch1 invented by a lace-maker named ,cahanet1 admits of putting a number of hands on the same piece1 whereas1 under the old system1 not more than two could work at the same time4 ,a scarf1 which would formerly have taken two women six months to complete1 divided into segments1 can now be finished by ten women in one4 7,plate ,,lix47 ,about #ahbg1 ,madame ,carpentier caused silk blonde again to be made for ,french consumption1 the fabric having died out4 ,two years later she was succeeded by ,m4 ,auguste ,lefbure1 by whom the making of blondes mates for exportation was introduced with such success1 that ,caen1 who had applied herself wholly to this manufacture1 almost gave up the competition4 ,mantillas 7,spanish1 ,havanese1 and ,mexican71 in large quantities1 were exported to ,spain1 ,mexico and the ,southern ,seas1 and were superior to those made in ,catalonia4 ,this manufacture requires the greatest care1 as it is necessary to throw aside the ,french taste1 and adopt the heavy1 overcharged patterns appropriate to the costumes and fashions of the countries for which they are destined4 ,these mantillas have served as models for the imitation made at ,nottingham4 7,plate ,,lxi47 ,,plate ,,lxi4 ,illustration3 ,,french4 ,,blonde ,,mate1 ,,in ,,spanish ,,style4--,nineteenth century4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #bbf4 #bbg;,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajc4 ,,modern ,,black ,,lace ,,of ,,bayeux4--,much reduced4 ,to the exertions of ,m4 ,lefbure is due the great improvement in the teaching of the lace schools4 ,formerly the apprentices were consigned to the care of some aged lace-maker1 probably of deficient eyesight2 he1 on the contrary1 #bbhplaced them under young and skilful forewomen1 and the result has been the rising up of a generation of workers who have given to ,bayeux a reputation superior to all in ,calvados4 ,it is the first fabric for large pieces of extra fine quality and rich designs2 and as the point d',alenon lace has also been introduced into the city1 ,bayeux excels equally at the pillow and the needle 7,figs4 #ajc and #ajd74 ,messrs4 ,lefbure have also most successfully reproduced the ,venetian point in high relief2 the raised flowers are executed with great beauty and the picots rendered with great precision4 ,the discovery of the way in which this complicated point lace was made has been the work of great patience4 ,it is called ,point ,colbert4 ,see page #ahh4 ,in #ahea there were in ,calvados #fj1jjj lace-workers1 spread along the sea-coast to ,cherbourg1 where the nuns of ,la ,providence have an establishment4 ,it is only by visiting the district that an adequate idea can be formed of the resources this work affords to the labouring classes1 thousands of women deriving from it their sole means of subsistence4#fad ,bayeux is now the centre for high-class lace-making in ,france4 ,m4 ,lefbure considers that the fichus1 mantillas1 etc41 that are made of fine white thread in the country round ,bayeux have all the suppleness and softness which contribute to the charm of ,mechlin lace1 to which they have a close affinity4 ,,bretagne4 ,no record of lace-making occurs in ,bretagne1 though probably the ,normandy manufacturers extended westward along the coast4 ,at all events1 the wearing of it was early adopted4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajd4 ,,point ,,colbert4--,venetian point in relief reproduced by ,m4 ,lefbure4 ,to face page #bbh4 #bbi;,embroidered tulle or point d'esprit was made in ,brittany as in ,denmark1 and around ,genoa1 where its production still continues4 ,embroidered muslins with open-work lace stitches were also made in ,brittany during the eighteenth century1 and called ,broderie des ,indes1 after the ,indian muslin scarfs that were brought to ,europe at that date1 and set the fashion4 ,there is a popular ballad of the province1 #aehg1 on ,fontenelle le ,ligueur1 one of the most notorious partizans of the ,league in ,bretagne4 ,he has been entrapped at ,paris1 and while awaiting his doom1 sends his page to his wife1 with these words 7we spare our readers the ,breton dialect73-- ,page1 mon page1 petit page1 va vite ,coadelan et dis la pauvre hritire#fae de ne plus porter des dentelles4 ,de ne plus porter des dentelles1 parce que son pauvre poux est en peine4 ,toi1 rapporte-moi une chemise mettre1 et un drap pour m'ensevelir4#faf ,one singular custom prevails among the ancient families in ,bretagne2 a bride wears her lace-adorned dress but twice--once on her wedding-day1 and only again at her death1 when the corse lies in state for a few hours before its placing in the coffin4 ,after the marriage ceremony the bride carefully folds away her dress#fag in linen of the finest homespun1 intended for her winding sheet1 and each year1 on the anniversary of the wedding-day1 fresh sprigs of lavender and rosemary are laid upon it until the day of mourning4 #bcj;,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,valenciennes 7,d,p4 ,,du ,,nord74 ,ils s'attachoient considerer des tableaux de petit point de la manufacture de ,valencienne qui representoient des fleurs1 et comme ils les trouvoient parfaitement beaux1 ,m4 de ,magelotte1 leur hte1 vouloit les leur donner1 mais ils ne les acceptrent point4--#afhf4 ,voyage des ,ambassadeurs de ,siam4 ,part of the ancient province of ,hainault1 ,valenciennes1 together with ,lille and ,arras1 is ,flemish by birth1 ,french only by conquest and treaty4#fah ,its lace manufacture has been supposed to date from the fifteenth century1 its first productions being attributed to ,pierre ,chauvin and ,ignace ,harent1 who employed a three-thread twisted flax4 ,this early date1 however1 is probably not correct4 ,it is more probable that ,valenciennes developed from and took the place of the lace-making foundation of ,colbert at ,le ,quesnoy4 ,the lace of ,le ,quesnoy is never mentioned after ,louis ,,xiv41 whereas after that reign ,valenciennes comes into notice4 ,it reached its climax from #agbe to #aghj1 when there were from #c1jjj to #d1jjj lace-makers in the city alone4 ,one of the finest known specimens of the earlier fabric is a lace-bordered alb1#fai belonging to the ladies of the ,convent of the ,visitation1#fbj at ,le ,puy4 ,the lace is #bh inches wide1 consisting of three breadths1 entirely of white thread1 very fine1 though thick4 ,the solid pattern1 which with its flowers and scrolls partakes of the character of the ,renaissance1 comes out well from the clear rseau ground4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aje4 ,,valenciennes4--#afej-agcj ,to face page #bcj4 #bca;,from #aghj downwards1 fashion changed4 ,the cheaper and lighter laces of ,brussels1 ,lille1 and ,arras1 obtained the preference over the costly and more substantial products of ,valenciennes--les ternelles ,valenciennes1 as they were called--while the subsequent disappearance of ruffles from the costume of the men greatly added to the evil4 ,valenciennes fell with the monarchy4 ,during the war of liberty1 foreign occupation decimated its population1 and the art became nearly lost4 ,in #agij1 the number of lace-workers had diminished to #bej2 and1 though ,napoleon used every effort to revive the manufacture1 he was unsuccessful4 ,in #ahea there were only two lace-makers remaining1 and they both upwards of eighty years of age4 ,the lace made in the city alone was termed ,vraie ,valenciennes1 and attained a perfection unrivalled by the productions of the villages beyond the walls4 ,in the lace accounts of ,madame du ,barry we find constant mention of this term4#fba ,vraie ,valenciennes appears constantly in contradistinction to btarde#fbb and fausse1 simply leading us to suppose that the last-mentioned appellations signify the laces fabricated in the neighbourhood4 ,in support of this assertion1 ,m4 ,dieudonn writes3#fbc ,this beautiful manufacture is so inherent in the place1 that it is an established fact1 if a piece of lace were begun at ,valenciennes and finished outside the walls1 the part which had not been made at ,valenciennes would be visibly less beautiful and less perfect than the other1 though continued by the same lace-maker with the same thread1 and upon the same pillow4#fbd #bcb;,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajf4 ,,valenciennes4--,period ,louis ,,xiv4 ,,plate ,,lxii4 ,illustration3 ,,valenciennes4--,three specimens of seventeenth and eighteenth century4 ,arranged by age1 the oldest at the top1 which was made for a royal personage1 with the initials ,e4 ,p42 it is now the property of ,mr4 ,arthur ,blackborne4 ,widths of the middle and lower pieces #a and #b in4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #bcb4 #bcc,the extinction of the fabric and its transfer to ,belgium has been a great commercial loss to ,france4 ,valenciennes1 being specially a dentelle linge1 is that of which the greatest quantity is consumed throughout the universe4 ,valenciennes lace is altogether made upon the pillow1 with one kind of thread for the pattern and the ground 7,fig4 #ajf74 ,no lace is so expensive to make1 from the number of bobbins required1 and the flax used was of the finest quality4 ,the city-made lace was remarkable for the beauty of its ground1 the richness of its design1 and evenness of its tissue4 ,its mesh is square or diamond-shaped1 and it has no twisted sides2 all are closely plaited4 ,the ornament is not picked out with a cordonnet1 as is the case with ,mechlin2 but1 like ,mechlin1 the ground went through various modifications1 including the fond de neige1 before the rseau was finally fixed4 ,from their solidity1 les belles et ternelles ,valenciennes became an heirloom in each family4 ,a mother bequeathed them to her daughter as she would now her jewels or her furs4#fbe ,the lace-makers worked in underground cellars1 from four in the morning till eight at night1 scarcely earning their tenpence a day4 ,the pattern was the especial property of the manufacturer2 it was at the option of the worker to pay for its use and retain her work1 if not satisfied with the price she received4 ,this lace was generally made by young girls2 it did not accord with the habits of the mre bourgeoise either to abandon her household duties or to preserve the delicacy of hand requisite for the work4 ,it may be inferred1 also1 that no eyes could support for a number of years the close confinement to a cellar3 many of the women are said to have become almost blind previous to attaining the age of thirty4 ,it was a great point when the whole piece was executed by the same lace-worker4 ,all by the same hand1 we find entered in the bills of the lace-sellers of the time4#fbf ,the labour of making vraie ,valenciennes was so great that while the ,lille lace-workers could produce from three to five ells a day1 those of ,valenciennes could not complete more than an inch and a half in the same time4 ,some lace-workers only made half an ell 7#bd inches7 in a #bcdyear1 and it took ten months1 working fifteen hours a day1 to finish a pair of men's ruffles--hence the costliness of the lace4#fbg ,a pair of ruffles would amount to #d1jjj livres1 and the barbes pleines1#fbh as a lady's cap was then termed1 to #a1bjj livres and upwards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajg4 ,,valenciennes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajh4 ,,valenciennes ,,lappet4--,period ,louis ,,xvi4 ,to face page #bcd4 #bce,the ,valenciennes of #aghj was of a quality far superior to any made in the present century4 ,the rseau was fine and compact1 the flower resembling cambric in its texture2 the designs still betraying the ,flemish origin of the fabric--tulips1 carnations1 iris1 or anemones--such as we see in the old ,flemish flower-pieces1 true to nature1 executed with ,dutch exactness 7,fig4 #ajh74 ,the city owed not its prosperity to the rich alone2 the peasants themselves were great consumers of its produce4 ,a woman laid by her earnings for years to purchase a bonnet en vraie ,valenciennes1 some few of which still appear in the northern provinces of ,france at church festivals and holidays4 ,these caps are formed of three pieces1 barbes1 passe1 et fond4 ,the ,norman women also loved to trim the huge fabric with which they overcharge their heads with a real ,valenciennes2 and even in the present day of bon march a peasant woman will spend from #ajj to #aej francs on a cap which is to last her for life4 ,the last important piece made within the city walls was a head-dress of vraie ,valenciennes presented by the city to the ,duchesse de ,nemours1 on her marriage in #ahdj4 ,it was furnished by ,mademoiselle ,ursule ,glairo1 herself an aged lady1 who employed the few old lace-workers then living1 with the patriotic wish of exhibiting the perfection of the ancient manufacture4#fbi ,,lille 7,d,p4 ,,du ,,nord74 ,ces points coupps1 passements et dentelles1 ,las6 qui venoient de l',isle et de ,bruxelles4 --,consolation des ,dames4 #afbj4 ,the fabrics of ,lille and ,arras are identical2 both make white lace with single grounds 7fond simple72 but the productions of ,lille are far superior to those of ,arras in quality4 ,the manufacture of the capital of ,french ,flanders vies with those of the ,netherlands in antiquity4 ,as early as #aehb its lace-makers are described1 at the entry of the ,duke of ,anjou into the city1 as wearing a special costume4 ,a gown of striped stuff1 with a cap of fine linen plaited in small flutes4 ,a silver medal suspended from the neck by a black ribbon completed a dress which has descended to the nineteenth century4#fcj ,the peace of ,aix-la-,chapelle having transferred ,lille to ,france1 many of its artizans retired to #bcf;,ghent2 they are described at that period as making both white and black lace4#fca ,the art1 however1 did not die out1 for in #agac1fcb on the marriage of the ,governor1 young ,boufflers1 to ,mademoiselle de ,villeroi1 the magistrates of ,lille presented him with lace to the value of #d1jjj livres4#fcc ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aji4 ,,lille4 ,the beauty of the ,lille lace is its ground1 called ,point de ,lille1 or fond clair1 the finest1 lightest1 most #bcgtransparent1 and best made of all grounds4#fcd ,the work is simple1 consisting of the ground1 with a thick thread to mark the pattern#fce 7,fig4 #aji74 ,instead of the sides of the mesh being plaited1 as in ,valenciennes1 or partly plaited1 partly twisted1 as in ,brussels and ,mechlin1 four of the sides are formed by twisting two threads round each other1 and the remaining two sides by simple crossing of the threads over each other4 ,in the eighteenth century more than two-thirds of the lace-making population of ,europe made it under the name of mignonettes and blondes de fil4 ,the treille#fcf was finer in the last century2 but in #ahjc the price of thread having risen #cj per cent41#fcg the lace-makers1 unwilling to raise the prices of their lace1 adopted a larger treille1 in order to diminish the quantity of thread required4 ,the straight edge and stiff pattern of the old ,lille lace is well known 7,fig4 #aaj74 ,the laces of ,lille1 both black and white1 have been much used in ,france3 though ,madame ,junot speaks disparagingly of the fabric1#fch the light clear ground rendered them especially adapted for summer wear4 ,they found great favour also in ,england1 into which country one-third of the lace manufactured throughout the ,dpartement du ,nord was smuggled in #aghi4fci ,the broad black ,lille lace has always been specially admired1 and was extensively used to trim the long silk mantles of the eighteenth century4#fdj #bch;,in #aghh there were above #af1jjj lace-makers at ,lille1 and it made #abj1jjj pieces#fda of lace1 representing a value of more than #afj1jjj4 ,in #ahea the number of lace-makers was reduced to #a1fjj2 it is still gradually diminishing1 from the competition of the fabric of ,mirecourt and the numerous other manufactures established at ,lille1 which offer more lucrative wages than can be obtained by lace-making4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaj4 ,,lille4 ,the old straight-edged is no longer made1 but the rose pattern of the ,mechlin is adopted1 and the style of that lace copied3 the sem of little square dots 7points d'esprit7 on the ground--one of the characteristics of ,lille lace--is still retained4 ,in #ahfb ,mrs4 ,palliser saw at ,lille a complete garniture of beautiful workmanship1 ordered for a trousseau at ,paris1 but the commercial crisis and the revolutions of #ahdh virtually put an end to the lace industry of ,lille and ,arras4 #bci;,,arras 7,,artois7 7,d,p4 ,,pas-,,de-,,calais74 ,arras of ryche arraye1 ,fresh as floures in ,maye4--,skelton4 ,arras1 from the earliest ages1 has been a working city4 ,her citizens were renowned for the tapestries which bore their name3 the nuns of her convents excelled in all kinds of needlework4 ,in the history of the ,abbaye du ,vivier1#fdb we are told how the abbess1 ,madame ,sainte1 dite la ,sauvage1 set the sisters to work ornaments for the church3-- ,les filles dans l'ouvroir tous les jours assembles ,n'y paroissent pas moins que l',abbesse zeles1 ,celle c d'une aiguille ajuste au petit point ,un bel etuy d'autel que l'eglise n'a point1 ,broche d'or et de soe un voile de ,calice2 ,l'autre fait un tapis du point de haute lice1 ,dont elle fait un riche et precieux frontal2 ,une autre coud une aube1 ou fait un corporal2 ,une autre une chasuble1 ou chappe nompareille1 ,o l'or1 l'argent1 la soe1 arrangs merveille1 ,representant des saints vestus plus richement ,que leur eclat n'auroit souffert de leur vivant2 ,l'autre de son ,carreau detachant la dentelle1 ,en orne les surplis de quelque aube nouvelle4 ,again1 among the first rules of the institution of the ,filles de ,sainte-,agns1 in the same city1 it is ordained that the girls aprendront a filer ou coudre1 faire passement1 tapisseries ou choses semblables4#fdc ,the ,emperor ,charles ,v4 is said1 however1 to have first introduced the lace manufacture into ,arras4#fdd ,arras was one of the seats of ,colbert's manufactures1 probably of the ,flemish bobbin lace4 ,it flourished in the eighteenth century1 when1 writes ,arthur ,young1 in #aghh1 were made coarse thread laces1 which find a good market in ,england4 ,the lace-workers earn from #ab to #ae sous4 ,peuchet corroborates this statement4 ,arras1 he says1 #bdj;fait beaucoup de mignonette et entoilage1 dont on consomme boucoup en ,angleterre4 ,the fabric of ,arras attained its climax during the ,empire 7#ahjd to #ahab71 since which period it has declined4 ,in #ahea there were #h1jjj lace-makers in a radius of eight miles round the city1 their salary not exceeding #fe centimes a day4 ,in #ahha1 however1 the trade had enormously decreased1 only one house making a speciality of the old patterns4 ,the old ,arras laces are now no more4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaa4 ,,arras4--,modern4 ,there is little1 or1 indeed1 no variety in the pattern of ,arras lace2 for years it produced the same style and design4 ,as a consequence of this1 the lace-makers1 from always executing the same pattern1 acquired great rapidity4 ,though not so fine as that of ,lille1 the lace of ,arras has three good qualities3 it is very strong1 firm to the touch1 and perfectly white2 hence the great demand for both home and foreign consumption1 no other lace having this triple merit at so reasonable a price 7,fig4 #aaa74 ,the gold lace of ,arras appears also to have had a reputation4 ,we find among the coronation expenses of ,george ,i4 a charge for #ced yards of ,arras lace atrebatic lacin4#fde #bda;,,bailleul 7,d,p4 ,,du ,,nord74 ,as already mentioned1 up to #agij the vraie ,valenciennes was only made in the city of that name4 ,the same lace manufactured at ,lille1 ,bergues1 ,bailleul1 ,avesnes1 ,cassel1 ,armentires1 as well as that of ,belgium1 was called ,fausses ,valenciennes4 ,armentires et ,bailleul ne font que de la ,valencienne fausse1 dans tous les prix1 writes ,peuchet4 ,on nomme1 states another author1#fdf fausses ,valenciennes la dentelle de mme espce1 infrieure en qualit1 fabrique moins serre1 dont le dessin est moins recherch et le toil des fleurs moins marqu4 ,of such is the lace of ,bailleul1#fdg whose manufacture is the most ancient and most important1 extending to ,hazebrouck1 ,bergues1 ,cassel1 and the surrounding villages4#fdh ,previous to #ahcj1 ,bailleul fabricated little besides straight edges for the ,normandy market4 ,in #ahcb the scalloped edge was adopted1 and from this period dates the progress and present prosperity of the manufacture4 ,its laces are not much esteemed in ,paris4 ,they have neither the finish nor lightness of the ,belgian products1 are soft to the touch1 the mesh round1 and the ground thick2 but it is strong and cheap1 and in general use for trimming lace4 ,the lace1 too1 of ,bailleul1 is the whitest and cleanest ,valenciennes made2 hence it is much sought after1 for exportation to ,america and ,india4 ,the patterns are varied and in good taste2 and there is every reason to expect that in due time it may attain the perfection1 if not of the ,valenciennes of ,ypres1 at least to that of ,bruges1 which city alone annually sends to ,france lace to the value of from #abj1jjj to #afj1jjj4 #bdb;,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,auvergne ,,and ,v,,lay4 ---- ,,le ,,puy 7,d,p4 ,,haute-,,loire74 ,as early as the fifteenth century the countrywomen from the mountains of the ,vlay would congregate together during the winter within the walls of the neighbouring cities1 and there1 forming themselves into companies1 gain their subsistence by making coarse lace to ornament the albs of the priests1 the rochets of the bishops1 and the petticoats of ladies of quality4 ,and very coarse and tasteless were these early products1 to judge from the specimens which remain tacked on to faded altar-cloths1 still to be met with in the province1 a mixture of netting and darning without design4 ,they also made what was termed dentelles de menage with the coarse thread they used for weaving their cloth4 ,they edged their linen with it1 and both bleached together in the wearing4 ,the lace region of ,central ,france1 of which ,le ,puy is the centre1 is considered to be the most ancient and considerable in ,france4 ,it is distributed over the four departments1#fdi and employs from #abe1jjj to #acj1jjj women4 ,it forms the sole industry of the ,haute-,loire1 in which department alone are #gj1jjj lace-makers4 ,the lace industry of ,le ,puy1 like all others1 has experienced various changes2 it has had its trials#fej and its periods of great prosperity4#fea ,in the chronicles of ,le ,puy of the sixteenth century#feb we read that the merciers of ,notre-,dame #bdc;des ,anges qui1 suivant l'usage faisaient dans notre ville le commerce des passementeries1 broderies1 dentelles1 etc41 comptaient alors quarante boutiques1 et qu'ils figurent avec enseignes et torches au premier rang dans les solennits religieuses4 ,judging from local documents1 this manufacture has for more than two centuries back formed the chief occupation of the women of this province4 ,it suffered from the sumptuary edicts of #afbi1 #afce and #afci1 and in #afdj threatened to be annihilated altogether4 ,in the month of ,january of that year1 the ,seneschal of ,le ,puy published throughout the city a decree of the ,parliament of ,toulouse1 which forbade1 under pain of heavy fine1 all persons of whatever sex1 quality1 or condition1 to wear upon their vestments any lace tant de soie que de fil blanc1 ensemble passement1 clinquant d'or ni d'argent fin ou faux2 thus by one ordinance annihilating the industry of the province4 ,the reason for this absurd edict was twofold3 first1 in consequence of the large number of women employed in the lace trade1 there was great difficulty in obtaining domestic servants2 secondly1 the general custom of wearing lace among all classes caused the shades of distinction between the high and low to disappear4 ,these ordinances1 as may be imagined1 created great consternation throughout ,le ,puy4 ,father ,rgis1 a ,jesuit1 who was then in the province1 did his best to console the sufferers thus reduced to beggary by the caprice of ,parliament4 ,ayez confiance en ,dieu1 he said2 la dentelle ne perira pas4 ,he set out to ,toulouse1 and by his remonstrances obtained a revocation of the edict4 ,nor did he rest satisfied with his good work4 ,at his suggestion the ,jesuits opened to the ,auvergne laces a new market in ,spain and the ,new ,world1 which1 until the year #agij1 was the occasion of great prosperity to the province4 ,the ,jesuit ,father1 who died in ,december #afdj1 was later canonised for his good deeds2 and under his new appellation of ,saint ,franois ,rgis1 is still held in the greatest veneration by the women of ,auvergne--as the patron saint of the lace-makers4 ,massillon1 when bishop of ,clermont 7#agag71 greatly patronised the lace-makers of his diocese1 and1 anxious that the province should itself furnish the thread used in the manufacture1 he purchased a quantity of spinning-wheels1 which he distributed among the poor families of ,beauregard1 #bddthe village in which the summer palace of the bishop1 previous to the ,revolution1 was situated4 ,the lace trade of this province frequently appears on the scene during the eighteenth century4 ,in #agjg the manufacturers demand a remission of the import duties of #affd as unfair1#fec and with success4 ,scarce ten years afterwards1#fed notwithstanding the privilege accorded1 we again find them in trouble2 whether their patterns did not advance with the fashions of the day1 or the manufacturers deteriorated the quality of the thread--too often the effect of commercial prosperity--the shops were filled with lace1 propres1 les unes pour l',italie1 d'autres pour les mers du ,sud1 which the merchants refused to buy4 ,to remedy this bad state of affairs1 the commissioners assembled at ,montpelier coolly decide that the diocese should borrow #fj1jjj livres to purchase the dead stock1 and so clear the market4 ,after some arguments the lace was bought by the ,sieur ,jerphanion1 ,syndic of the diocese4 ,prosperity1 however1 was not restored1 for in #agee we again hear of a grant of #a1jjj livres1 payable in ten years by the ,states of ,vlay1 for the relief of the distressed lace-makers1 and again a fresh demand for exemption of the export duty4#fee ,this is declared in a memorial of #agfa to be the chief cause of the distress1 which memorial also states that1 to employ the people in a more lucrative way1 a manufacture of blondes and silk laces had been introduced4 ,this distress is supposed to have been somewhat exaggerated by the merciers of ,le ,puy1 whose profits must have been very considerable2 the women1 according to ,arthur ,young1 earning only from four to eight sous daily4 ,peuchet1 with his predecessor1 ,savary1 and other writers on statistics1 describe the manufacture of ,le ,puy as the most flourishing in ,france4 ,her lace1 writes ,peuchet1 resembles greatly that of ,flanders2 much is consumed in the #bde;,french dominions1 and a considerable quantity exported to ,spain1 ,portugal1 ,germany1 ,italy and ,england4 ,much thread lace is also expedited by way of ,cadiz to ,peru and ,mexico4 ,the ladies of these countries trim their petticoats and other parts of their dress with such a profusion of lace as to render the consumption 'prodigieuse4' ,les ,anglois en donnent des commissions en contrebande pour l',isthmus de ,panama4 ,les ,hollandois en demandent aussi et faisaient expdier ,cadiz leur compte4#fef ,we read1 however1 after a time1 that the taste for a finer description of lace having penetrated to ,mexico and ,peru1 the commerce of ,le ,puy had fallen off1 and that from that epoch the work-people had supported themselves by making blondes and black lace4 ,the thread used in ,auvergne comes from ,haarlem1 purchased either from the merchants of ,rouen or ,lyons4 ,in the palmy days of ,le ,puy her lace-workers consumed annually to the amount of #djj1jjj livres4 ,the laces made for exportation were of a cheap quality1 varying from edgings of #cj sous to #de livres the piece of #ab ells2 of these the annual consumption amounted to #a1bjj1jjj livres4#feg ,it may indeed be said that1 with the exception of the period of the ,french ,revolution to #ahja1 the lace trade of ,le ,puy has ever been prosperous4 ,formerly they only made at ,le ,puy laces which had each a distinctive name--ave1 pater1 chapelets1 mie1 serpent1 bonnet1 scie1 etc4 ,le ,puy now produces every description of lace1 white and coloured1 silk1 thread1 and worsted1 blondes of all kinds1 black of the finest grounds1 application1 double and single grounds2 from gold and silver lace to edgings of a halfpenny a yard1 and laces of goats' and ,angora rabbits' hairs4 ,in #ahdg more than #e1jjj women were employed in making ,valenciennes4 ,they have also succeeded in producing admirable needle-points1 similar to the ancient ,venetian4 ,a dress of this lace1 destined to adorn an image of the ,virgin1 was shown in the ,french ,exhibition of #ahee4 #bdf;,in #ahdh commerce and trade languished1 and a cheaper lace was produced1 made of worsted1 for shawls and trimmings4 ,this lace was not long in fashion1 but it re-appeared a few years later under the name of lama1 or poil de chvre1 when it obtained a great success4 ,the hair of the lama has never been used4 ,le ,puy now offers to the market an infinite variety of lace1 and by means of these novelties her laces successfully compete with those of ,saxony1 which alone can rival her in cheapness2 but as the patterns of these last are copied from the laces of ,le ,puy and ,mirecourt1 they appear in the foreign1 market after the originals4 ,the finest collection of ,auvergne lace in the ,international ,exhibition 7#ahfg7 was from the fabric of ,crponne 7,haute-,loire71#feh established in #ahcj by ,m4 ,thodore ,falcon1 to whom ,le ,puy is indebted for her muse de dentelles1 containing specimens of the lace of all countries and all ages1 a most useful and instructive collection for the centre of a lace district4 ,le ,puy has also a lace school1 numbering a hundred pupils1 and a school of design for lace patterns1 founded in #ahei4fei ,,aurillac ,,and ,,murat 7,d,p4 ,,cantal74 ,l'on fait ,orillac les dentelles quit ont vogue dans le royaume1 writes1 in #afgj1 the author of the ,dlices de la ,france4#ffj ,the origin of the fabric is assigned to the fourteenth century1 when a company of emigrants established themselves at ,cuena and ,valcameos1 and nearly all the points of ,aurillac were exported into ,spain through this company4 ,in #afhh there was sold on the ,place at ,marseilles annually to the amount of #cej1jjj livres of the products of ,aurillac1 with other fine laces of ,auvergne4#ffa ,in #agbf the produce was already reduced to #bjj1jjj livres4 ,the finest points de ,france1 writes ,savary1 were made at ,aurillac and ,murat1 the former alone at one time producing to the annual value of #gjj1jjj francs 7#bh1jjj71 and giving occupation to from #c1jjj to #d1jjj lace-workers4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,lxiii4 ,,plate ,,lxiv4 ,,french4--,two specimens bought in ,france as ,cambrai4 ,they are typical of ,northern ,french laces that became naturalised in ,england after the ,french ,revolution4 ,widths1 #b and #c in4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden from private collection4 ,,plate ,,lxv4 ,illustration3 ,,french4 ,,bobbin-,,made4--,from the environs of ,le ,puy4 ,period ,louis ,,xiii4-,louis ,,xiv4 ,now made and called ,guipure de ,cluny4 ,in the ,muse ,cinquantenaire1 ,brussels4 ,to face page #bdf #bdg;,an attempt to establish a bureau for ,colbert's new manufacture of points de ,france was at first opposed1 as we read3 ,les trois femmes envoyes par les entrepreneurs pour tablir cette manufacture furent attaqus dans les rues d',aurillac4 ,les ouvrires de cette ville leur disait 'qu'elles prouvaient s'en retourner1 parce qu'elles savaient mieux travailler qu'elles4'#ffb ,the lace-makers would not give up what the intendant terms the wretched old point1 which ,m4 ,henri ,duref1 the historian of the ,dpartement de ,cantal1 describes1 on the contrary1 as consisting of rich flowered designs1 such as may be seen by studying the portraits of many ,auvergnat noblemen of the period4 ,there are various letters on the subject in the ,colbert ,correspondence2 and in the last from ,colbert1 #afgj1 he writes that the point d',aurillac is improving1 and there are #h1jjj lace-women at work4 ,it appears that he established at ,aurillac a manufactory of lace where they made1 upon des dessins flamands modifis1 a special article1 then named point ,colbert1 and subsequently point d',aurillac4 ,in the ,convent of the ,visitation at ,le ,puy is shown the lace-trimming of an alb1 point d',angleterre4 ,it is #bh inches wide1 of white thread1 with brides picotes1 of elegant scroll design4 ,if1 as tradition asserts1 it was made in the country1 it must be the produce of this manufactory4 ,it appears that rich passements1 as they are still called in the country1 of gold and silver were made long before the period of ,colbert4 ,we find abundant mention of them in the church inventories of the province1 and in the museum are pieces of rich lace said to have belonged to ,francis ,i4 and his successors which1 according to tradition1 were the produce of ,aurillac4 ,they are not of wire1 but consist of strips of metal twisted round the silk4 ,in the inventory of the sacristy of the ,benedictine monastery at ,st4 ,aligre1 #afhd1 there is a great profusion of #bdhlace4 ,voile de brocard1 fond d'or entour d'un point d',espagne d'or et argent2 another1 garni de dentelles d'or et argent1 enrichi de perles fines2 #bj aubes grandes dentelles1 amicts1 lavabos1 surplis1 etc41 all grandes ou petites dentelles4#ffc ,in the inventory of ,massillon's chapel at ,beauregard1 #agdb1 are albs trimmed with point d',aurillac2 veils with point d',espagne or et argent4#ffd ,lacis was also made at ,aurillac1 and some specimens are still preserved among the old families there4 ,the most interesting dates from the early seventeenth century1 and belongs to the ,chapel of ,notre ,dame at ,thierzac1 where ,anne of ,austria made a pilgrimage in #afca1 and which1 by the mutilated inscription on a piece of the work1 would appear to refer to her4 ,mazarin held the ,aurillac laces in high estimation1 and they are frequently met with in the inventory of the effects he left on his death in #affj4 ,again1 in the account of a masked ball1 as given in the ,mercure ,galant of #afgi1 these points find honourable mention4 ,the ,prince de ,conti is described as wearing a mante de point d',aurillac or et argent4 ,the ,comte de ,vermandois1 a veste edged with the same2 while ,mademoiselle de ,blois has ses voiles de point d',aurillac d'argent1 and of the ,duchesse de ,mortemart it is said1 ,on voyait dessous ses plumes un voile de point d',aurillac or et argent qui tomboit sur ses 'paules4' ,the ,chevalier ,colbert1 who appeared in an ,african costume1 had des manches pendantes of the same material4 ,the same ,mercure of ,april1 #afha1 speaking of the dress of the men1 says1 ,la plupart portent des garnitures d'une richesse qui empeschera que les particuliers ne les imitent1 puisqu'elles reviennent #ej louis4 ,ces garnitures sont de point d',espagne ou d',aurillac4 ,from the above notices1 as well as from the fact that the greater part of these laces were sent into ,spain1 it appears that point d',aurillac was a rich gold and silver lace1 similar to the point d',espagne4 ,the laces of ,murat 7,dp4 ,haute-,garonne7 were faon de #bdi,malines et de ,lille4 ,they were also made at ,la ,chaise ,dieu1 ,alenches1 and ,verceilles4 ,those points were greatly esteemed1 and purchased by the wholesale traders of ,le ,puy and ,clermont1 who distributed them over the kingdom through their colporteurs4 ,the fabrics of ,aurillac and ,murat ended with the ,revolution4 ,the women1 finding they could earn more as domestic servants in the neighbouring towns1 on the restoration of order1 never again returned to their ancient occupation4 #bej;,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,limousin4 ,in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries1 a kind of pillow net 7torchon entoilage1 ,mr4 ,ferguson calls it7#ffe for women's sleeves was manufactured at ,tulle 7,corrze7 and also at ,aurillac4 ,from this circumstance many writers have derived tulle1 the ,french name for bobbin net1 from this town4 ,m4 ,lefbure is of this opinion1 and adduces in favour of it the fact that lace was made at ,tulle in the eighteenth century1 and that an account of #agge mentions certain ,mesdemoiselles ,gantes as lace-makers in that town4 ,the first dictionary in which the word tulle occurs is the ,french ,encyclopdia of #agfe1 where we find1 ,tulle1 une espce de dentelle commune mais plus ordinairement ce qu'on appelait entoilage4#fff ,entoilage1 as we have already shown1 is the plain net ground upon which the pattern is worked#ffg or a plain net used to widen points or laces1 or worn as a plain border4 ,in ,louis ,,xv4's reign ,madame de ,mailly is described1 after she had retired from the world1 as sans rouge1 sans poudre1 et1 qui plus est1 sans dentelles1 attendu qu'elle ne portait plus que de l'entoilage bord plat4#ffh ,we read in the ,tableau de ,paris how ,le tul1 la gaz et le marli ont occups cent mille mains4 ,tulle was made on the pillow in ,germany before lace was introduced4 ,if tulle derived its name from any town1 it would more probably be from ,toul1 celebrated1 as all others in ,lorraine1 for its embroidery2 and as net resembles the stitches made in embroidery by separating the threads 7hemstitch1 etc471 it #beamay have taken its ,french name1 ,tulle1 ,german ,tll1 from the points de ,tulle of the workwomen of the town of ,toul1 called in ,latin ,tullum1 or ,tullo4#ffi ,,lorraine4 ,the lace#fgj manufactures of ,lorraine flourished in the seventeenth century4 ,mirecourt 7,dp4 ,vosges7 and the villages of its environs1 extending to the department of ,meurthe1 was the great centre of this trade1 which formed the sole occupation of the countrywomen4 ,for some centuries the lace-workers employed only hempen thread1 spun in the environs of pinal1 and especially at ,chtel-sur-,moselle4#fga ,from this they produced a species of coarse guipure termed passament1 or1 in the patois of the province1 peussemot4#fgb ,as early as the seventeenth century they set aside this coarse article and soon produced a finer and more delicate lace with various patterns3 they now made double ground and mignonette2 and at ,lunville 7,dp4 ,meurthe71 dentelles l'instar de ,flandre4 ,in #agae an edict of ,duke ,leopold regulates the manufacture at ,mirecourt4#fgc ,the lace was exported to ,spain and the ,indies4 ,it found its way also to ,holland1 the ,german ,states1 and ,england1 where ,randle ,holme mentions ,points of ,lorraine1 without raisings4#fgd ,the ,lorraine laces were mostly known in commerce as #beb,les dentelles de ,saint-,mihiel1 from the town of that name1 one of the chief places of the fabric4 ,these last-named laces were much esteemed on their first appearance4 ,previous to the union of ,lorraine to ,france in #agff1 there were scarcely #hjj lace-makers in ,mirecourt4 ,the number amounted to nearly #be1jjj in #ahfi4fge ,early in the nineteenth century the export trade gave place to more extensive dealings with ,france4 ,point de ,flandres was then very much made1 the patterns imported by travelling merchants journeying on their way to ,switzerland4 ,anxious to produce novelty1 the manufacturers of ,mirecourt wisely sent for draughtsmen and changed the old patterns4 ,their success was complete4 ,they soon became formidable rivals to ,lille1 ,geneva1 and the ,val de ,travers 7,switzerland74 ,lille now lowered her prices1 and the ,swiss lace trade sank in the contest4 ,scarcely any but white lace is made2 the patterns are varied and in excellent taste1 the work similar to that of ,lille and ,arras4 ,some few years since the making of application flowers was attempted with success at ,mirecourt1 and though it has not yet attained the perfection of the ,brussels sprigs1 yet it daily improves1 and bids fair to supply ,france with a production for which she now pays ,belgium #abj1jjj annually4 ,the ,lorraine application possesses one advantage over those of ,flanders1 the flowers come from the hands of the lace-makers clean and white1 and do not require bleaching4#fgf ,the price1 too1 is most moderate4 ,the production which of late years has been of the most commercial value is the ,cluny lace1 so called from the first patterns being copied from specimens of old lace in the ,muse de ,cluny4 ,the immense success of this lace has been highly profitable to ,mirecourt and ,le ,puy4 #bec,the wages of the #bd1jjj lace-workers averaging eightpence a day1 their annual products are estimated at #abj1jjj4 ,much of the ,lorraine lace is consumed at ,paris and in the interior of ,france2 the rest is exported to ,america1 the ,east ,indies1 and the different countries of ,europe4 ,,champagne4 ,the ,ardennes lace was generally much esteemed1 especially the points de ,sedan1 which derived their name from the city where they were manufactured4#fgg ,not only were points made there1 but1 to infer from the ,great ,wardrobe ,account of ,charles ,i41 the cut-work of ,sedan had then reached our country1 and was of great price4 ,we find in one account#fgh a charge for six handsome ,sedan and ,italian collars of cut-work1 and for #fb yards of needlework purl for six pairs of linen ruffs the enormous sum of #aaf #fs4 ,and again1 in the last year of his reign1 he has six handsome ,pultenarian ,sedan collars of cut-work1 with the same accompaniment of #gb yards of needlework purl amounting to #ajf #afs4#fgi ,what these ,pultenarian collars may have been we cannot1 at this distance of time1 surmise2 but the entries afford proof that the excellency of the ,sedan cut-work was known in ,england4 ,rheims1 ,chteau-,thierry and ,sedan are mentioned among the other towns in the ordinance establishing the points de ,france in #affe4 ,in less than four months ,rheims numbered a hundred and forty workers1 consisting of ,venetians and ,flemings1 with seven from ,paris and the natives of the place4 ,in #affi the number had fallen to sixty1 in consequence of the price demanded for their board and lodging4 ,their lace was remarkable for its whiteness4 ,lace was made in the seventeenth century at ,sedan1 ,donchry1 ,charleville1 ,mzires1 ,troyes and ,sens4 ,the thread manufacturers of ,sedan furnished the material #bednecessary for all the lace-workers of ,champagne4 ,much point de ,sedan was made at ,charleville1 and the laces of this last-named town#fhj were valued at from four up to fifty livres the ell1 and even sometimes at a higher rate4 ,the greater part of the produce was sold in ,paris1 the rest found a ready market in ,england1 ,holland1 ,germany1 and ,poland4#fha ,pignariol de la ,force1 writing later1 says the manufacture of points and laces at ,sedan1 formerly so flourishing1 is now of little value4#fhb ,most of its lace-makers1 being ,protestants1 emigrated after the ,edict of ,revocation4 ,chteau-,renaud and ,mzires were chiefly employed in the manufacture of footings 7engrlures74#fhc ,the laces of ,donchry were similar to those of ,charleville1 but made of the ,holland thread4 ,they were less esteemed than those of ,sedan4 ,a large quantity were exported to ,italy and ,portugal2 some few found their way to ,england and ,poland4 ,up to the ,revolution ,champagne employed from #ejjj to #fjjj lace-workers1 and their annual products were estimated at #bjj1jjj fr4 ,during the twelve years of revolutionary anarchy1 all the lace manufactures of this province disappeared4 ,there are differences of opinion as to the exact character of ,sedan lace4 ,m4 ,sguin considers it to have been a lace inferior in design and workmanship to point de ,venise rseau4 ,a single thread intervenes between the pattern and the rseau1 instead of the overcast cordonnet of ,alenon1 and in other respects it resembles late ,venetian needlepoint4 ,certain authorities in ,brussels1 again1 claim the point de ,sedan as a needle-made production of ,brabant or ,lige4 ,m4 ,lefbure1 on the other hand1 considers it as an important variety of ,alenon4 ,the floral devices in points de ,sedan1 which are somewhat large and heavy in execution1 spring from bold scroll forms1 and in between them are big meshes of the 'grande maille picote' of the point de ,france4 ,instead of an even and slightly raised stitching along their contours1 these big flowers are accentuated here and there in well chosen parts by raised stitching1 worked somewhat #beewith the effect of vigorous touches of rather forced high lights in a picture4 ,these recurrent little mounds of relief1 as they may be called1 are frequently introduced with admirable artistic result4 ,the finest bishops' rochets which appear in the later portraits by ,hyacinthe ,rigaud and de ,larguillire are of point de ,sedan4 ,it is possible that both types of lace mentioned--the heavy kind1 and the lace with the rseau--are the productions of ,sedan4 ,,burgundy4 ,colbert was proprietor of the terre de ,seignelay1 three leagues from ,auxerre1 which caused him to interest himself in establishing manufactories1 and especially that of point de ,france4 ,in his ,correspondence are twelve letters relating to this manufacture for #affg-gd1 but it did not succeed4 ,at last1 worn out1 he says the mayor and aldermen will not avail themselves of the means of prosperity ,i offer1 so ,i will leave them to their bad conduct4 ,specimens of a beautifully fine well-finished lace1 resembling old ,mechlin1 are often to be met with in ,belgium 7,fig4 #aab71 bearing the traditional name of point de ,bourgogne1 but no record remains of its manufacture4 ,in the census taken in #aega1 giving the names of all strangers in the ,city of ,london1 three are cited as natives of ,burgundy1 knitters and makers of lace4#fhd ,in the eighteenth century1 a manufactory of ,valenciennes was carried on in the hospital at ,dijon1 under the direction of the magistrates of the city4 ,it fell towards the middle of the last century1 and at the ,revolution entirely disappeared4#fhe ,les dentelles sont grosses1 writes ,savary1 mais il s'en dbite beaucoup en ,franche-,comt4 #bef,,lyonnois4 ,lyons1 from the thirteenth century1 made gold and silver laces enriched with ornaments similar to those of ,paris4 ,the laces of ,st4 ,etienne resembled those of ,valenciennes1 and were much esteemed for their solidity4 ,the finest productions were for men's ruffles1 which they fabricated of exquisite beauty4 ,a considerable quantity of blonde was made at ,meran1 a village in the neighbourhood of ,beauvoisin1 but the commerce had fallen off at the end of the last century4 ,these blondes go by the familiar name of bisettes4 ,,orl,,anois4 ,colbert's attempts at establishing a manufactory of point de ,france at ,montargis appear by his letters to have been unsuccessful4 ,,berry4 ,nor were the reports from ,bourges more encouraging4 ,,poitou4 ,lace was made at ,loudun1 one of ,colbert's foundations1 in the seventeenth century1 but the fabric has always been common4 ,mignonettes et dentelles poignet de chemises1 et de prix de toutes espces1 from one sol six deniers the ell1 to forty sols the piece of twelve ells4 ,children began lace-making at a very early age4 ,loudun fournit quelques dentelles communes1 says the ,government ,reporter of #ahjc4fhf ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aab4 ,,point ,,de ,,bourgogne4--,bobbin-made4 ,to face page #bef4 #beg,peuchet speaks of lace manufactories at ,perpignan1 ,aix1 ,cahors1 ,bordeaux1#fhg etc41 but they do not appear to have been of any importance1 and no longer exist4#fhh #beh;,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,holland1 ,,germany1 ,,switzerland1 ,,austria ,,and ,,hungary4 ---- ,,holland4 ,a country that draws fifty feet of water1 ,in which men live as in the hold of nature1 ,and when the sea does in them break1 ,and drowns a province1 does but spring a leak4--,hudibras4 ,we know little of the early fabrics of this country4 ,the laces of ,holland1 though made to a great extent1 were overshadowed by the richer products of their ,flemish neighbours4 ,the ,netherlanders1 writes ,fynes ,moryson1 who visited ,holland in #aehi1 wear very little lace1#fhi and no embroidery4 ,their gowns are mostly black1 without lace or gards1 and their neck-ruffs of very fine linen4 ,we read how1 in #affg1 ,france had become the rival of ,holland in the trade with ,spain1 ,portugal and ,italy2 but she laid such high duties on foreign merchandise1 the ,dutch themselves set up manufactures of lace and other articles1 and found a market for their produce even in ,france4#fij ,a few years later1 the revocation of the ,edict of ,nantes#fia caused #d1jjj lace-makers to leave the town of ,alenon alone4 ,many took refuge in ,holland1 where1 says a writer of the day1 they were treated like artists4 ,holland gained more than she lost by ,louis ,,xiv4 ,the ,french refugees founded a manufactory of that point lace called dentelle a la ,reine#fib in the ,orphan ,house at ,amsterdam4#fic ,,plate ,,lxvi4 ,illustration3 ,,william1 ,,prince ,,of ,,orange1 ,,father ,,of ,,william ,,iii41 #afbg-afej4 ,school of ,van ,dyck4 ,the collar is edged with ,dutch lace4 ,national ,portrait ,gallery4 ,photo by ,walker and ,cockerell4 ,to face page #beh4 #bei;,a few years later1 another ,huguenot1 ,zacharie ,chtelain1#fid introduced into ,holland the industry1 at that time so important1 of making gold and silver lace4 ,the ,dutch possessed one advantage over most other nations1 especially over ,england1 in her far-famed ,haarlem#fie thread1 once considered the best adapted for lace in the world4 ,no place bleaches flax1 says a writer of the day1#fif like the meer of ,haarlem4#fig ,still the points of ,holland made little noise in the world4 ,the ,dutch strenuously forbade the entry of all foreign lace1 and what they did not consume themselves they exported to ,italy1 where the market was often deficient4#fih ,once alone in ,england we hear tell of a considerable parcel of ,dutch lace seized between ,deptford and ,london from the ,rotterdam hoy4 ,england1 however1 according to ,anderson1 in #agfd1 received in return for her products from ,holland fine lace1 but the balance was in ,england's favour4 ,in #aggj the ,empress ,queen 7,marie ,theresa7 published a declaration prohibiting the importation of ,dutch lace into any of her ,imperial ,majesty's hereditary dominions in ,germany4#fii ,as in other matters1 the ,dutch carried their love of lace #bfjto the extreme1 tying up their knockers with rich point to announce the birth of an infant4 ,a traveller who visited ,france in #afia1 remarks of his hotel3 ,the warming-pans and brasses were not here muffled up in point and cut-work1 after the manner of ,holland1 for there were no such things to be seen4#gjj ,the ,dutch lace most in use was thick1 strong and serviceable 7,fig4 #aac74 ,that which has come under our notice resembles the fine close ,valenciennes1 having a pattern often of flowers or fruit strictly copied from nature4 ,the ladies wear1 remarks ,mrs4 ,calderwood1 very good lace mobs4 ,the shirt worn by ,william the ,silent when he fell by the assassin is still preserved at ,the ,hague2 it is trimmed with a lace of thick linen stitches1 drawn and worked over in a style familiar to those acquainted with the earlier ,dutch pictures4 ,,saxony4 ,here unregarded lies the rich brocade1 ,there ,dresden lace in scatter'd heaps is laid2 ,here the gilt china vase bestrews the floor1 ,while chidden ,betty weeps without the door4 --,eclogue on the death of ,shock1 a pet lapdog4 ,ladies' ,magazine4 #agej4 ,his olive-tann'd complexion graces ,with little dabs of ,dresden laces2 ,while for the body ,mounseer ,puff ,would think e'en dowlas fine enough4 --,french ,barber4 #agef4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aac4 ,,dutch ,,bobbin-,,lace4--,eighteenth century4 ,to face page #bfj4 #bfa;,illustration3 ,fig4 #aad4 ,,tomb ,,of ,,barbara ,,uttmann1 ,,at ,,annaberg4 ,the honour of introducing pillow lace into ,germany is accorded by tradition to ,barbara ,uttman4 ,she was born in #aead1 in the small town of ,etterlein1 which derives its name from her family4 ,her parents1 burghers of ,nuremburg1 had removed to the ,saxon ,hartz ,mountains1 for the purpose of working some mines4 ,barbara ,etterlein here married a rich master miner named ,christopher ,uttmann1 of ,annaberg4 ,it is said that she learned lace-making from a native of ,brabant1 a ,protestant1 whom the cruelties of the ,spaniards had driven from her country4 ,barbara had observed the mountain girls occupied in making a network for the miners to wear over their hair3 she took great interest in the work1 and1 profiting by the experience derived from her ,brabant teacher1 succeeded in making her pupils produce first a fine knotted tricot1 afterwards a kind of plain lace ground4 ,in #aefa1 having procured aid from ,flanders1 she set up1 in her own name of ,barbara ,uttmann1 a workshop at ,annaberg1 and there began to make laces of various patterns4 ,this branch of industry soon spread from the ,bavarian frontier to ,altenberg and ,geissing1 giving employment to #cj1jjj persons1 and producing a revenue of #a1jjj1jjj thalers4 ,barbara ,uttmann died in #aege1 leaving sixty-five children and grandchildren1 thus realising a prophecy made previous to her marriage1 that her descendants would equal in number the stitches of the first lace ground she had made3 such prophecies were common in those days4 ,she sleeps in the churchyard of ,annaberg1 near the old lime-tree4 ,on her tomb 7,fig4 #aad7 is inscribed3 ,here lies ,barbara ,uttmann1 died #ad ,january1 #aege1 whose invention #bfbof lace in the year #aefa made her the benefactress of the ,erzgebirge4 ,an active mind1 a skilful hand1 ,bring blessings down on the ,fatherland4 ,in the ,green ,vault at ,dresden is preserved an ivory statuette of ,barbara ,uttmann1 four and a half inches high1 beautifully executed by ,koehler1 a jeweller of ,dresden1 who worked at the beginning of the eighteenth century4 ,it is richly ornamented with enamels and precious stones1 such figures 7of which there are many in the ,green ,vault7 being favourite articles for birthday and ,christmas gifts4 ,previous to the eighteenth century the nets of ,germany had already found a market in ,paris4#gja ,on vend1 says the ,livre ,commode des ,adresses of #afib1 le treillis d',allemagne en plusieurs boutiques de la rue ,bthizy4 ,dresden1 says ,anderson1 makes very fine lace1 the truth of which is confirmed by nearly every traveller of the eighteenth century4 ,we have reason to believe the so-called ,dresden lace was the drawn-work described in ,chapter ,,ii41 and which was carried to great perfection4 ,went to a shop at ,spaw1 writes ,mrs4 ,calderwood1 and bought a pair of double ,dresden ruffles1 which are just like a sheaf1 but not so open as yours1 for two pounds two4 ,la broderie de ,dresde est trs connue et les ouvriers trs habiles1 says ,savary4 ,this drawn-work1 for such it was1 excited the emulation of other nations4 ,the ,anti-,gallican ,society in #agec leads the van1 and awards three guineas as their second prize for ruffles of ,saxony4#gjb ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aad;,a4 ,,barbara ,,uttmann1 ,,who ,,introduced ,,the ,,lace ,,manufacture ,,into ,,the ,,erzgebirge4 ,from an ivory statuette by ,koehler1 ,green ,vault1 ,dresden4 ,to face page #bfb4 #bfc;,ireland1 in #agee1 gave a premium of #e for the best imitation of ,dresden point1 while the ,edinburgh ,society1 following in the wake1 a year later presents to ,miss ,jenny ,dalrymple a gold medal for the best imitation of ,dresden work in a pair of ruffles4 ,in the ,fool of ,quality1#gjc and other works from #agfj to #aggj1 we have ,dresden aprons1 ,dresden ruffles1 showing that point to have been in high fashion4 ,wraxall1 too1 #aggh1 describes a ,polish beauty as wearing a broad ,medicis of ,dresden lace4 ,as early as #agfj ,dresden work is advertised as taught to young ladies in a boarding-school at ,kelso1#gjd together with shell-work in grottoes1 flowers1 catgut1 working lace on bobbins or wires1 and other useful accomplishments4 ,the lace of ,saxony has sadly degenerated since the eighteenth century4 ,the patterns are old and ungraceful1 and the lace of inferior workmanship1 but1 owing to the low price of labour1 they have the great advantage of cheapness1 which enables them to compete with ,france in the ,american and ,russian markets4 ,in all parts of ,germany there are some few men who make lace4 ,on the ,saxon side of the ,erzgebirge many boys are employed1 and during the winter season men of all ages work at the pillow2 and it is observed that the lace made by men is firmer and of a superior quality to that of the women4 ,the lace is a dentelle torchon of large pattern1 much in the style of the old lace of ,ischia4#gje ,the ,saxon needle-lace of the present day is made in imitation of old ,brussels1 with small flowers on a rseau4 ,some is worked in coloured thread1 and also black silk lace of the ,chantilly type is made3 of this the ,erzgebirge is the chief centre4 ,this lace is costly1 and is sold at ,dresden and other large towns of ,germany1 and particularly at ,paris1 where the dealers pass it off for old lace4 ,this fabric employed1 in #ahea1 #cjj workers4 ,a quantity of so-called ,maltese lace is also made1 but torchon predominates4 ,the ,museum for ,art and ,industry1 opened at ,vienna in #ahfe1 contains several pattern-books of the sixteenth century1 and in it has been exhibited a fine collection of ancient lace belonging to ,general von ,hauslaub1 ,master-,general of the ,ordnance4 #bfd;,,germany 7,,north ,,and ,,south74 ,germany in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries was renowned for its lacis1 cut-work1 and embroidery with thread on net1 of which there are several good examples in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum1 together with specimens of early ,flemish work from their colonies on the ,elbe1 established in the twelfth century by various ,german rulers4 ,the work of these towns is of later date--of the fifteenth century--and has continued to the nineteenth century1 when they made cambric caps1 embroidered or ornamented with drawn-work1 and edged with bobbin-made ,tnder lace1 in the style of eighteenth century ,valenciennes4 ,presque dans toutes sortes d'arts les plus habiles ouvriers1 ainsi que les plus riches ngociants1 sont de la religion prtendue rforme1 said the ,chancellor d',aguesseau2#gjf and when his master1 ,louis ,,xiv41 whom he1 in not too respectful terms1 calls le roi trop crdule1 signed the ,act of ,revocation 7#afhe71 ,europe was at once inundated with the most skilful workmen of ,france4 ,hamburg alone of the ,hanse ,towns received the wanderers4 ,lubec and ,bremen1 in defiance of the remonstrances of the ,protestant princes1 allowed no strangers to settle within their precincts4 ,the emigrants soon established considerable manufactures of gold and silver lace1 and also that now extinct fabric known under the name of ,hamburg point4#gjg ,miss ,knight1 in her ,autobiography1 notes3 ,at ,hamburg1 just before we embarked1 ,nelson purchased a magnificent lace trimming for ,lady ,nelson1 and a black lace cloak for another lady1 who1 he said1 had been very attentive to his wife during his absence4 ,on the very year of the ,revocation1 ,frederic ,william1 ,elector of ,brandenburg1 anxious to attract the fugitive workmen to his dominions1 issued from ,potsdam an edict#gjh in their favour4 ,crowds of ,french ,protestants responded to the call1 and before many years had passed ,berlin alone boasted #dej lace manufactories4#gji ,previous to this emigration she had none4 ,these mangeurs d'haricots1 as the ,prussians styled the emigrants1 soon amassed large fortunes1 and exported their laces to ,poland and to ,russia4 ,the tables were turned4 ,france1 who formerly exported lace in large quantities to ,germany1 now received it from the hands of her exiled workmen1 and in #agbc and #agcd we find ,arrts du ,conseil d',etat1 relative to the importation of ,german laces4#gaj ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,lxvii4 ,,swiss4--,from near ,nechatel4 ,early nineteenth century4 ,similar in make to ,lille and some ,devon lace4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,lxviii4 ,,german1 ,,nuremberg4--,used by the peasants on their caps4 ,the cordonnet suggests a ,mechlin influence1 whilst the heavy rseau is reminiscent of some ,antwerp and ,flemish and ,italian village laces of the end of the seventeenth century4 ,,plate ,,lxix4 ,illustration3 ,,english1 ,,bucks4--,a unique piece designed and made by the lace-makers for ,queen ,victoria in the early years of her reign2 from her lady-in-waiting ,emma1 ,lady ,portman1 it has descended to the present owner1 ,mrs4 ,lloyd ,baker4 ,the above is a complete section of the design1 which is outlined with gold thread4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden from private collections4 ,to face page #bfd4 #bfe,the ,landgrave of ,hesse also received the refugees1 publishing an edict in their favour4#gaa ,two fabrics of fine point were established at ,hanover4#gab ,leipsic1 ,anspach1#gac ,elberfeld1 all profited by the migration4 ,on compte1 writes ,peuchet1 ,leipsig cinq fabriques de dentelles et de galon d'or et argent4 ,a large colony settled at ,halle1 where they made ,hungarian lace--,point de ,hongrie1#gad a term more generally applied to a stitch in tapestry4#gae ,the word1 however1 does occasionally occur3-- ,your ,hungerland#gaf bands and ,spanish quellio ruffs1 ,great ,lords and ,ladies1 feasted to survey4#gag ,all these various fabrics were offsets of the ,alenon trade4 ,fynes ,moryson expresses surprise at the simplicity of the ,german costume--ruffs of coarse cloth1 made at home4 ,the ,dantzickers1 however1 he adds1 dress more richly4 ,citizens' daughters of an inferior sort wear their hair woven with lace stitched up with a border of pearl4 ,citizens' wives wear much lace of silk on their petticoats4 ,dandyism began in ,germany1 says a writer1#gah about #afbf1 when the women first wore silver1 which appeared very remarkable1 and at last indeed white lace4 ,a century later luxury at the baths of ,baden had reached an excess unparalleled in the #bffpresent day4 ,the bath mantles1 quipage de bain1 of both sexes are described as trimmed with the richest point1 and after the bath were spread out ostentatiously as a show on the baths before the windows of the rooms4 ,lords and ladies1 princesses and margraves1 loitered up and down1 passing judgment on the laces of each new arrival4#gai ,this love of dress1 in some cases1 extended too far1 for ,bishop ,douglas#gbj mentions how the ,leipsic students think it more honourable to beg1 with a sword by their side1 of all they meet than to gain their livelihood4 ,i have often1 he says1 given a few groschen to one finely powdered and dressed with sword and lace ruffles4 ,concerning the manufactures of the once opulent cities of ,nuremburg and ,augsburg we have no record4 ,in the first-mentioned was published1 in #afja1 the model book1 engraved on copper1 of ,sibmacher4#gba ,on the frontispiece is depicted a garden of the sixteenth century4 ,from the branches of a tree hangs a label1 informing the world that she who loves the art of needlework1 and desires to make herself skilful1 can here have it in perfection1 and she will acquire praise1 honour1 and reward4 ,at the foot of the tree is seated a modest young lady yclept ,industria2 on the right a second1 feather-fan in hand1 called ,ignavia--,idleness2 on the left a respectable matron named ,sofia--,wisdom4 ,by way of a preface the three hold a dialogue1 reviewing1 in most flattering terms1 the work4 ,a museum was founded in #ahfe at ,nuremburg for works and objects connected with the lace manufacture and its history4 ,it contains some interesting specimens of ,nuremburg lace1 the work of a certain ,jungfrau ,pickleman1 in the year #afjj1 presented by the widow ,pfarrer ,michel1 of ,poppenreuth4#gbb ,the lace is much of the ,venetian character4 ,one specimen has the figures of a knight and a lady1 resembling the designs of ,vecellio4 ,the museum also possesses other curious examples of lace1 together with a collection of books relative to the lace fabric4 7,plate ,,lxviii47 ,in the chapel of ,st4 ,egidius at ,nuremburg1 writes one #bfgof our correspondents1 we were led to make inquiries concerning sundry ponderous-looking chairs1 bearing some resemblance to confessionals1 but wanting the side compartments for the penitents4 ,we learned that they belonged to the several guilds 7,innung71 who had undertaken to collect money for the erection of a new church after the destruction of the old by fire4 ,for this end the last members sworn in of every trade sat in their respective chairs at the church doors on every ,sunday and holiday4 ,the offerings were thrown into dishes placed on a raised stand on the right of the chair1 or into the hollow in front4 ,the devices of each trade were painted or embossed on circular plates1 said to be of silver1 on the back of each chair4 ,one ,handwerksstuhl in particular attracted our attention2 it was that of the passmenterie-makers 7in ,german1 ,portenmacher or ,posamentier ,handwerk71 which1 until the handicrafts became more divided1 included the lace-makers4 ,an elegant scroll-pattern in rilievo surrounds the plate1 surmounted by a cherub's head1 and various designs1 resembling those of the pattern-books1 are embossed in a most finished style upon the plate1 together with an inscription dated #agah4 ,misson1 who visited ,nuremberg in #afih1 describes the dress of a newly-married pair as rich in the extreme--that of the bridegroom as black1 fort charg de dentelles2 the bride as tricked out in the richest dentelle antique1 her petticoat trimmed with des tresses d'or et de dentelle noire4 ,in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum there are two women's ruffs from ,nuremberg belonging to the latter part of the sixteenth or early seventeenth century1 and embroidered in blue and black silk and white cotton1 and edged with a coarse thread ,mechlin lace with a large meshed irregular plaited rseau1 probably late seventeenth century4 ,perhaps the finest collection of old ,german point is preserved1 or rather was so1 in #ahdj1 in the palace of the ancient1 but now extinct1 ,prince-,archbishops of ,bamberg4 ,several more pattern-books were published in ,germany4 ,among the most important is that printed at ,augsburg1 by ,john ,schwartzenburg1 #aecd4 ,it is printed in red1 and the patterns1 mostly borders1 are of delicate and elegant design4 7,see ,,appendix47 ,secondly comes one of later date1 published by ,sigismund ,latomus at ,frankfort-on-the-,main1 #afje2 and lastly1 that #bfhof ,metrepire ,quinty1 demorat dempre leglie de iii roies1 a culoge 7,cologne71 #aebg4 ,in ,austria1 writes ,peuchet1 les dentelles de soie et de fil ne sont pas moins bien travailles4 ,many of the ,protestant lace-workers took refuge in the cities of ,freyburg and ,altenburg4 ,there is a collection in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum of cuffs embroidered in satin stitch1 and edged with bobbin-lace torchon of the peasants' work in ,slavonia in the eighteenth century4 ,the patterns resemble ,cretan and ,russian laces4 ,there is a comparatively modern variety of lace made in ,austria and ,bohemia which resembles the old ,italian bobbin-lace2 the school where it is taught is under ,government patronage4 ,this industry was established as a means of relieving the distress of the ,tyrol in #ahej1 and continues to flourish4 ,austria sent to the ,international ,exhibition of #ahgd specimens of needle-point and point plat made in the school of the ,grand ,duchess ,sophie1 and specimens of border laces in the style of the ,auvergne laces were exhibited from the ,erzgebirge and ,bohemia4 ,at the ,paris ,exhibition1 ,austria and ,vienna both exhibited copies of old needle-point laces4 ,at ,laybach1 in ,austria1 there was at one time a bobbin-lace factory which produced lace much esteemed in the eighteenth century4 ,the collection of ,hungarian peasant lace in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum collection contains specimens of coarse modern pillow-made lace1 with rude floral designs worked in thick thread or yellow silk4 ,the modern laces of ,bohemia are tasteless in design4 ,the fabric is of early date4 ,the ,bohemian women1 writes ,moryson1 delight in black cloth with lace of bright colours4 ,in the beginning of the nineteenth century upwards of #fj1jjj people1 men1 women and children1 were occupied in the ,bohemian ,erzgebirge alone in lace-making4 ,since the introduction of the bobbin-net machine into ,austria1 #ahca1 the number has decreased4 ,there were in #ahfb scarcely #h1jjj employed in the common laces1 and about #d1jjj on ,valenciennes and points4#gbc ,,plate ,,lxx4 ,illustration3 ,,hungarian4 ,,bobbin ,,lace4--,latter half of nineteenth century4 ,widths1 #f and #b in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,,plate ,,lxxi4 ,illustration3 ,,austro-,,hungarian1 ,,south ,,slavonian4 ,,cuff ,,of ,,linen ,,embroidered ,,in ,,satin ,,stitch ,,in ,,white ,,silk4 ,,white ,,silk ,,bobbin ,,lace4--,eighteenth century4 ,width1 #g in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #bfh4 #bfi,,switzerland4 ,dans un vallon fort bien nomm ,travers1 ,s'lve un mont1 vrai sjour des hivers4--,voltaire4 ,in the ,preface of the ,neues ,modelbuch of ,froschowern1 printed at ,zurich 7see ,,appendix71 occurs the following3--,amongst the different arts we must not forget one which has been followed in our country for twenty-five years4 ,lace-making was introduced in #aecf by merchants from ,italy and ,venice4 ,many women1 seeing a means of livelihood in such work1 quickly learned it1 and reproduced lace with great skill4 ,they first copied old patterns1 but soon were enabled to invent new ones of great beauty4 ,the industry spread itself about the country1 and was carried to great perfection3 it was found to be one specially suitable for women1 and brought in good profits4 ,in the beginning these laces were used solely for trimming chemises and shirts2 soon afterwards collars1 trimmings for cuffs1 caps1 and fronts and bodies of dresses1 for napkins1 sheets1 pillow-cases and coverlets1 etc41 were made in lace4 ,very soon such work was in great demand1 and became an article of great luxury4 ,gold thread was subsequently introduced into some of it1 and raised its value considerably2 but this latter sort was attended with the inconvenience that it was more difficult to clean and wash than laces made with flax threads only4#gbd ,the above account is interesting1 not only in its reference to ,switzerland1 but from its corroborative evidence of the ,italian origin of lace4 ,in #aegb1 one ,symphorien ,thelusson1 a merchant of ,lyons1 having escaped from the massacre of ,st4 ,bartholomew1 concealed himself in a bale of goods1 in which he reached ,geneva1 and was hospitably received by the inhabitants4 ,when1 after the lapse of near a hundred and twenty years1 crowds of ,french emigrants arrived in the city1 driven from their homes on the ,revocation of the ,edict of ,nantes1 a descendant of this same ,thelusson took a body of #b1jjj refugees into his service1 and at once established a manufacture of lace4#gbe ,the produce of this industry was smuggled #bgj;back into ,france1 the goods conveyed across the ,jura over passes known only to the bearers1 by which they avoided the custom-house duties of ,valence4 ,every day1 writes ,jambonneau1 himself a manufacturer1 they tell my wife what lace they want1 and she takes their orders4 ,louis ,,xiv4 was furious4#gbf ,though lace-making employed many women in various parts of the country1 who made a common description while tending their flocks in the mountains1 ,neufchtel has always been the chef-lieu of the trade4 ,in this town1 says ,savary1 they have carried their works to such a degree of perfection1 as to rival the laces of ,flanders1 not only in beauty but in quality4 ,we have ourselves seen in ,switzerland guipures of fine workmanship that were made in the country1 belonging to old families1 in which they have remained as heirlooms2 and have now in our possession a pair of lappets1 made in the last century at ,neufchtel1 of such exquisite beauty as not to be surpassed by the richest productions of ,brussels4 ,formerly lace-making employed a large number of workwomen in the ,val de ,travers1 where1 during his sojourn at ,moutiers1 ,jean-,jacques ,rousseau tells us he amused himself in handling the bobbins4 ,in #aghj the lace trade was an object of great profit to the country1 producing laces valuing from #a batz to upwards of #gj francs the ell1 and exporting to the amount of #a1ejj1jjj francs2 on which the workwomen gained #hjj1jjj1 averaging their labour at scarcely #h sols per day4 ,the villages of ,fleurens and ,connet were the centre of this once flourishing trade1#gbg now ruined by competition with ,mirecourt4 ,in #ahad there were in the ,neufchtel district1 #efbh lace-makers2 in #ahdd a few aged women alone remained4 ,the modern laces of ,neufchtel resemble those of ,lille1 but are apt to wash thick4 7,plate ,,lxvii47 ,in #ahdj1 a fabric of point plat de ,bruxelles dite de ,genve was established at ,geneva4 ,by the sumptuary laws of ,zurich1#gbh which were most #bgasevere1 women were especially forbidden to wear either blonde or thread lace1 except upon their caps4 ,this must have been a disadvantage to the native fabrics1 for ,zurich1 says ,anderson1 makes much gold1 silver1 and thread lace4 ,several pattern-books for lace were published in ,switzerland in the later years of the sixteenth century2 one1 without a date1 but evidently printed at ,zrich about #aedj1 by ,c4 ,froschowern1 is entitled1 ,nw ,modelbch allerley ,gattungen ,dntel1 etc4 ,another one1 entitled ,new ,model-buch1 printed by ,g4 ,strauben1 #aeic1 at ,st4 ,gall1 is but a reprint of the third book of ,vecellio's ,corona4 ,another1 called also ,sehr ,newe ,model-,buch1 was published at ,basle in #aeii1 at the printing-house of ,ludwig ,knigs4 #bgb;,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,denmark1 ,,sweden ,,and ,,russia4 ---- ,,denmark4 ,,eraste4--,miss1 how many parties have you been to this week8 ,,lady4--,i do not frequent such places2 but if you want to know how much lace ,i have made this fortnight1 ,i might well tell you4 --,holberg4 ,the ,inconstant ,lady4 ,the far-famed lace of ,tnder4 ,a certain kind of embroidery1 or cut-work in linen1 was much used in ,denmark before lace came in from ,brabant1 writes ,professor ,thomsen4 ,this kind of work is still in use among the peasants1 and you will often have observed it on their bed-clothes4 ,the art of lace-making itself is supposed to have been first brought over by the fugitive monks at the ,reformation1 or to have been introduced by ,queen ,elizabeth1#gbi sister of ,charles ,v41 and wife of ,christian ,,ii41 that good queen who1 had her husband been more fortunate1 would1 says the chronicler1 have proved a second ,dagmar to ,denmark4 ,lace-making has never been practised as a means of livelihood throughout ,denmark4 ,it is only in the province of ,north ,schleswig 7or ,south ,jutland1 as it is also called7 that a regular manufacture was established4 ,it is here that ,king ,christian ,,iv4 appears to have made his purchases2 and while travelling in ,schleswig1 entries constantly occur in his journal book1 from #afai to #afbe1 such as1 ,paid to a female lace-worker #bh rixdollars--#ga specie to a lace-seller for lace for the use of the children1 and many similar #bgcnotices4#gcj ,it was one of those pieces of ,tnder lace that ,king ,christian sends to his ,chamberlain1 with an autograph letter1 ordering him to cut out of it four collars of the same size and manner as ,prince ,ulrik's ,spanish4 ,they must contrive also to get two pairs of manchettes out of the same4 ,in the museum of the palace at ,rosenborg are still preserved some shirts of ,christian ,,iv41 trimmed with ,schleswig lace of great beauty 7,fig4 #aae71 and in his portrait1 which hangs in ,hampton ,court ,palace1 the lace on his shirt is of similar texture4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aae4 ,,shirt ,,collar ,,of ,,christian ,,iv4--7,castle of ,rosenborg1 ,copenhagen47 ,it was in the early part of this monarch's reign#gca that the celebrated ,golden ,horn1 so long the chief treasure of the ,scandinavian ,museum at ,copenhagen1 was found by a young #bgdlace-maker on her way to her work4 ,she carried her prize to the king1 and with the money he liberally bestowed upon her she was enabled1 says tradition1 to marry the object of her choice4 ,the year #afdg was a great epoch in the lace-making of ,jutland4 ,a merchant named ,steenbeck1 taking a great interest in the fabric1 engaged twelve persons from ,dortmund1 in ,westphalia1 to improve the trade1 and settled them at ,tnder1 to teach the manufacture to both men and women1 rich and poor4 ,these twelve persons are described as aged men1 with long beards1 which1 while making lace1 they gathered into bags1 to prevent the hair from becoming entangled among the bobbins4 ,the manufacture soon made great progress under their guidance1 and extended to the south-western part of ,ribe1 and to the island of ,rom4#gcb ,the lace was sold by means of lace postmen1 as they were termed1 who carried their wares throughout all ,scandinavia and parts of ,germany4 ,christian ,,iv4 protected the native manufacture1 and in the ,act of #afdc1gcc lace and suchlike pinwork are described as luxurious articles1 not allowed to be imported of a higher value than five shillings and sixpence the ,danish ell4#gcd ,a later ordinance1 #afhc1 mentions white and black lace which are manufactured in this country1 and grants permission to the nobility to wear them4#gce ,christian ,,iv4 did not patronise foreign manufactures4 ,the ,king of ,denmark1 writes ,moryson1 wears but little gold lace1 and sends foreign apparel to the hangman to be disgraced1 when brought in by gentlemen4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaf4 ,t,,nder ,,lace1 ,,drawn ,,muslin4--,denmark1 eighteenth century4 ,width #b inches4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #bgd4 #bge;,about the year #agab the lace manufacture again was much improved by the arrival of a number of ,brabant women1 who accompanied the troops of ,king ,frederick ,,iv4 on their return from the ,netherlands1#gcf and settled at ,tnder4 ,we have received from ,jutland1 through the kind exertions of ,mr4 ,rudolf ,bay1 of ,aalborg1 a series of ,tnder laces1 taken from the pattern-books of the manufacturers4 ,the earlier specimens are all of ,flemish character4 ,there is the old ,flanders lace1 with its ,dutch flowers and double and trolly grounds in endless variety4 ,the ,brabant1 with fine ground1 the flowers and jours well executed4 ,then follow the ,mechlin grounds1 the patterns worked with a coarse thread1 in many1 apparently1 run in with the needle4 ,there is also a good specimen of that description of drawn muslin lace1 commonly known under the name of ,indian work1 but which appears to have been very generally made in various manners4 ,the leaves and flowers formed of the muslin are worked round with a cordonnet1 by way of relief to the thick double ground 7,fig4 #aaf74gcg ,in the ,scandinavian ,museum at ,copenhagen is a pair of lappets of drawn muslin1 a fine specimen of this work4 ,the modern laces are copied from ,french1 ,lille1 and ,saxon patterns2 there are also imitations of the so-called ,maltese4 ,the ,schleswig laces are all remarkable for their fine quality and excellent workmanship4 ,guipure1 after the manner of the ,venice points1 was also fabricated4 ,a fine specimen of this lace may be seen decorating the black velvet dress of the youthful daughter of ,duke ,john of ,holstein4 ,she lies in her coffin within the mortuary chapel of her family1 in the castle of ,sonderborg4 ,lace was much used in burials in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries1 when it really appears people were arrayed in more costly clothing than in their lives4 ,the author of ,jutland and the ,danish ,islands has often seen mummies in the ,danish churches exposed to view tricked out in points of great richness4 ,the lace industry continued to increase in value till the beginning of the present century4 ,the year #ahja may be considered its culminating point4 ,at that period the number of peasants employed in ,tnder and its neighbourhood alone was #bj1jjj4 ,even little boys were taught to make lace till strong enough to work in the fields1 and there was scarcely a house without a lace-maker1 who would sit before her #bgf;cottage door1 working from sunrise till midnight1 singing the ballads handed down from their ,brabant teachers4#gch ,my late father1#gci writes ,mr4 ,f4 ,wulff1 of ,brede1 who began the lace trade the end of the last century1 first went on foot with his wares to ,mecklenburg1 ,prussia and ,hanover3 we consigned lace to all parts of the world4 ,soon he could afford to buy a horse2 and in his old age he calculated he had travelled on horseback more than #ge1jjj ,english miles1 or thrice round the earth4 ,in his youth the most durable and prettiest ground was the old ,flemish1 much used by the peasants in ,germany4 ,it was solid1 and passed as an heirloom through several generations4 ,later1 the fine needle ground came in1 and lastly1 the fond clair1 or point de ,lille1 far less solid1 but easier to work2 hence the lace-makers became less skilful than of old4 ,they had not many models1 and the best workwomen were those who devoted their whole life to one special pattern4 ,few were found so persevering4 ,one widow1 however1 is recorded who lived to the age of eighty and brought up seven children on the produce of a narrow edging1 which she sold at sixpence a yard4 ,each pattern had its proper name--cock-eye1 spider1 lyre1 chimney-pot1 and feather4 ,the rich farmers' wives sat at their pillows daily1 causing their household duties to be performed by hired servants from ,north ,jutland4 ,ladies also1 a century and a half ago1 made it their occupation1 as the motto of our chapter1 from the drama of ,holberg1 will show4 ,and this continued till the fashion of hvidsom--white seaming--the cut-work already alluded to1 was for a time revived4 ,this work was1 however1 looked upon as infra dig4 for the wives of functionaries and suchlike1 in whom it was unbecoming to waste on such employment time that should be devoted to household matters4 ,our informant tells of a lady in the north who thus embroidered the christening robe of her child by stealth in the kitchen1 fearing to be caught by her visitors--cookery had in those days precedence over embroidery4 ,among the hoards of this child1 born #agee1 was found a most exquisite collection of old ,tnder lace1 embracing all the varieties made by her mother and herself1 from the thick ,flemish to the finest needle-point4 ,,plate ,,lxxii4 ,illustration3 ,,russian4--,the upper piece of lace is needle-point brides picotes4 ,modern reproduction of a sixteenth century design4 ,width1 #c-c_/h in4 ,,german4 ,,saxon4--,the lower piece bobbin-made by the peasants of the ,erzgebirge4 ,nineteenth century4 ,width1 #c in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,,plate ,,lxxiii4 ,illustration3 ,,russian4--,old bobbin-made with coloured silk outlines4 ,the property of ,madame ,pogosky4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #bgf4 #bgg,the fashion of cut-work still prevails in ,denmark1 where collars and cuffs1 decorated with stars1 crosses1 and other medival designs1 are exposed in the shop-windows of ,copenhagen for sale--the work of poor gentlewomen1 who1 by their needle1 thus add a few dollars yearly to their income4 ,from #ahcj dates the decline of the ,tnder lace4 ,cotton thread was introduced1 and the quality of the fabric was deteriorated4#gdj ,the lace schools were given up2 and the flourishing state of agriculture rendered it no longer a profitable employment either for the boys or the women4#gda ,the trade passed1 from the manufacturers into the hands of the hawkers and petty dealers1 who were too poor to purchase the finer points4 ,the lace postmen once more travelled from house to house with their little leathern boxes1 offering these inferior wares for sale4#gdb ,the art died out4 ,in #ahdj there were not more than six lace manufacturers in ,schleswig4 ,the old people1 however1 still believe in a good time coming4 ,i have in my day1 said an aged woman1 sold point at four thalers an ell1 sir2 and though ,i may never do so again1 my daughter will4 ,the lace trade slumbers1 but it does not die4 ,,sweden4 ,at a very early period the ,scandinavian goldsmith had learned to draw out wires of gold and twine them round threads either of silk or flax--in fact to guiper them4 #bgh,wadstena1 where lies ,queen ,philippa of ,lancaster1 daughter of ,henry ,,iv41 is celebrated for its lace4 ,the art1 according to tradition1 was introduced among the nuns of the convent by ,st4 ,bridget on her return from ,italy4 ,some even go so far as to say she wrote home to ,wadstena1 ordering lace from ,rome2 but1 as ,st4 ,bridget died in #acce1 we may be allowed to question the fact3 certain it is1 though1 the funeral coif of the saint1 as depicted in an ancient portrait1 said to have been taken at ,rome after death1 is ornamented with a species of perforated needlework4#gdc ,by the rules of the convent1 the nuns of ,wadstena were forbidden to touch either gold or silver1 save in their netting and embroidery4 ,there exists an old journal of the ,kloster1 called ,diarium ,vadstennse1 in which are1 however1 no allusions to the art2 but the letters of a ,wadstena nun to her lover extra muros1 published from an old collection#gdd of documents1 somewhat help us in our researches4 ,i wish1 she writes to her admirer1 ,i could send you a netted cap that ,i myself have made1 but when ,sister ,karin ,andersdotter saw that ,i mingled gold and silver thread in it1 she said1 ',you must surely have some beloved4' ',do you think so8' ,i answered4 ',here in the ,kloster1 you may easily see if any of the brethren has such a cap1 and ,i dare not send it by anyone to a sweetheart outside the walls4' ',you intend it for ,axel ,nilson1' answered ,sister ,karin4 ',it is not for you to talk1' ,i replied4 ',i have seen you net a long hood1 and talk and prattle yourself with ,brother ,bertol4' ,from netted caps of thread1 worked in with gold and silver1 the transition to lace is easy1 and history tells that in the middle ages the ,wadstena nuns ,knit their laces of #bgi;gold and silk4 ,we may therefore suppose the art to have flourished in the convents at an early date4 ,at the suppression of the monasteries1 under ,charles ,,ix41 a few of the nuns1 too infirm to sail with their sisters for ,poland1 remained in ,sweden4 ,people took compassion on the outcasts1 and gave them two rooms to dwell in1 where they continued their occupation of making lace1 and were able1 for a season1 to keep the secret of their art4 ,after a time1 however1 lace-making became general throughout the town and neighbourhood1 and was known to the laity previous to the dissolution of ,wadstena--a favoured convent which survived the rest of the other monasteries of ,sweden4 ,send up1 writes ,gustaf ,vasa1 in a familiar letter#gde to his ,queen ,margaret1 the lace passement made for me by ,anne1 the smith's daughter1 at ,upsala2 ,i want it3 don't neglect this4#gdf ,in an inventory of ,ericksholm ,castle1 drawn up in #aedh1 are endless entries of sheets seamed with cut-work1 half worn-out sheets with open border of cut-work1 towels with cut-work and with the king's and queen's arms in each corner1 blue curtains with cut-work seams1 etc4 ,the style of ,wadstena lace changed with the times and fashion of the national costume4 ,those made at present are of the single or double ground1 both black and white1 fine1 but wanting in firmness4 ,they also make much dentelle torchon1 of the lozenge pattern1 for trimming the bed-linen they so elaborately embroider in drawn-work4 ,in #ahcj the products in value amounted to #cj1jjj rixdollars4 ,they were carried to every part of ,sweden1 and a small quantity even to foreign parts4 ,one dealer alone1 a ,madame ,hartruide1 now sends her colporteurs hawking ,wadstena lace round the country4 ,the fabric1 after much depression1 has slightly increased of late years1 having received much encouragement from her ,majesty ,queen #bhj,louisa4 ,specimens of ,wadstena lace--the only lace manufactory now existing in ,sweden--were sent to the ,great ,international ,exhibition of #ahfb4 ,hlesom1 or cut-work1 is a favourite employment of ,swedish women1 and is generally taught in the schools4#gdg ,at the various bathing-places you may see the young ladies working as industriously as if for their daily sustenance2 they never purchase such articles of decoration1 but entirely adorn their houses by the labours of their own hands4 ,it was by a collar of this hlesom1 worked in silk and gold1 that young ,gustaf ,erikson was nearly betrayed when working as a labourer in the barn of ,rankhytta1 the property of his old college friend1 ,anders ,petersen4 ,a servant girl observed to her master1 ,the new farm-boy can be no peasant2 for1 says she1 his linen is far too fine1 and ,i saw a collar wrought in silk and gold beneath his kirtle4 ,gold lace was much in vogue in the middle of the sixteenth century1 and entries of it abound in the inventory of ,gustavus ,vasa and his youngest son1 ,magnus4 ,in an inventory of ,ericksholm1 #aecf1 is a pair of laced sheets4 ,it is the custom in ,sweden to sew a broad border of seaming lace between the breadths of the sheets1 sometimes wove in the linen4 ,directions1 with patterns scarcely changed since the sixteenth century1 may be found in the ,weaving ,book published at ,stockholm in #ahbh4gdh ,towards the end of #aejj the term passement appears in general use1 in an inventory of ,pontus de ,gardia4 ,in the neighbourhood of ,wadstena old soldiers1 as well as women1 may be seen of a summer's evening sitting at the cottage doors making lace4 ,though no other lace manufactory can be said to exist in ,sweden beyond that of ,wadstena1 still a coarse bobbin lace is made by the peasantry for home consumption4 ,the author has received from the ,countess ,elizabeth ,piper1 late ,grande ,matresse to her ,majesty the ,queen of ,sweden1 specimens of coarse pillow laces1 worked by the ,scanian peasant women1 which1 she writes1 form a favourite occupation for the women of our province4 ,,plate ,,lxxiv4 ,illustration3 ,,russian4--,part of a long border setting forth a ,procession4 ,lacis and embroidery in silk4 ,the lace is bobbin-made in thread4 ,rseau similar to ,valenciennes4 ,the ,russian thread is good quality linen4 ,size of portion shown #ah x #ad in4 ,the property of ,madame ,pogosky4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #bhj4 #bha,latterly this manufacture has been protected and the workwomen carefully directed4 ,far more curious are the laces made by the peasants of ,dalecarlia1 still retaining the patterns used in the rest of ,europe two hundred years since4 ,the broader#gdi kinds1 of which we give a woodcut 7,fig4 #aag71 are from ,gaguef1 that part of ,dalecarlia where laces are mostly made and used4 ,married women wear them on their summer caps1 much starched1 as a shelter against the sun4 ,others1 of an unbleached thread1 are from ,orsa4 ,this lace is never washed1 as it is considered an elegance to preserve this coffee-coloured tint4 ,the firmness and solidity of these last laces are wonderful4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aag4 ,,dalecarlian ,,lace4 ,the specimens from ,rttwik are narrow seaming laces of the lozenge pattern4 ,there is also a sort of plaiting used as a fringe1 in the style of the ,genoese macram1 from the ends of a small #bhbsheet which the peasants spread over their pillows4 ,no improvement takes place in the designs4 ,the ,dalecarlian women do not make a trade of lace-making1 they merely work to supply their own wants4#gej ,fig4 #aah represents a lace collar worn by ,gustavus ,adolphus1 a relic carefully preserved in the ,northern ,museum at ,stockholm4 ,on it is inscribed in ,swedish3 ,this collar was worn by ,gustaf ,adolf1 ,king of ,sweden1 and presented1 together with his portrait1 as a remembrance1 in #afcb1 to ,miss ,jacobina ,lauber1 of ,augsburg1 because she was the most beautiful damsel present4 ,in addition to this collar1 there is preserved at the ,royal ,kladskammar at ,stockholm a blood-stained shirt worn by ,gustavus at the ,battle of ,dirschau1 the collars and cuffs trimmed with lace of rich geometric pattern1 the sleeves decorated with seaming lace4 ,in an adjoining case of the same collection are some splendid altar-cloths of ancient raised ,spanish point1 said to have been worked by the ,swedish nuns previous to the suppression of the monasteries4 ,a small escutcheon constantly repeated on the pattern of the most ancient specimens has the semblance of a water-lily leaf1 the emblem of the ,stures1 leading one to believe they may have been of ,swedish fabric1 for many ladies of that illustrious house sought shelter from troublous times within the walls of the lace-making convent of ,wadstena4 ,in the same cabinet is displayed1 with others of more ordinary texture1 a collar of raised ,spanish guipure1 worked by the ,princesses ,catherine and ,marie1 daughters of ,duke ,johan ,adolf 7brother of ,charles ,x474 ,though a creditable performance1 yet it is far inferior to the lace of convent make4 ,the making of this ,spanish point formed a favourite amusement of the ,swedish ladies of the seventeenth century3 bed-hangings1 coverlets1 and toilets of their handiwork may still be found in the remote castles of the provinces4 ,we have received the photograph of a flower from an old bed of ,swedish lace--an heirloom in a ,smaland castle of ,count ,trolle ,bonde4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aah4 ,,collar ,,of ,,gustavus ,,adolphus4 ,to face page #bhb4 #bhc,,russia4 ,after his visit to ,paris early in the eighteenth century1 ,peter the ,great founded a manufacture of silk lace at ,novgorod1 which in the time of the ,empress ,elizabeth fell into decay4 ,in the reign of ,catherine ,,ii4 there were twelve gold lace-makers at ,st4 ,petersburg1 who were scarcely able to supply the demand4 ,in ,russia lace-making and embroidery go hand in hand1 as in our early examples of embroidery1 drawn-work1 and cut-work combined4 ,lace-making was not a distinct industry2 the peasants1 especially in ,eastern ,russia1 made it in their houses to decorate1 in conjunction with embroidery1 towels1 table-linen1 shirts1 and even the household linen1 for which purpose it was purchased direct from the peasants by the inhabitants of the towns4 ,many will have seen the ,russian towels in the ,international ,exhibition of #ahgd1 and have admired their quaint design and bright colours1 with the curious line of red and blue thread running through the pattern of the lace4 ,darned netting and drawn-work appear1 as elsewhere1 to have been their earliest productions4 ,the lace is loosely wrought on the pillow1 the work simple1 and requiring few bobbins to execute the vermiculated pattern which is its characteristic 7,fig4 #aai1 and ,plates ,,lxxii4-,,iv474 ,the specimens vary very much in quality1 but the patterns closely resemble one another1 and are all of an oriental and barbaric character 7,fig4 #aai74 ,in ,nardendal1 near ,abo1 in ,finland1 the natives offer to strangers small petticoats and toys of lace--a relic of the time when a nunnery of ,cistercians flourished in the place4 ,much of a simple design and coarse quality is made in ,belev1 ,vologda1 ,riazan1 ,mzeresk4 ,at ,vologda a lace resembling torchon is made1 with colours introduced1 red1 blue1 and cru and white4#gea ,in some laces silks of various colours are employed4 ,pillow-lace has only been known in ,russia for over a hundred years1 and although the #bhdlace produced is effective1 it is coarse in texture and crude in pattern4 ,late in the nineteenth century the ,czarina gave her patronage to a school founded at ,moscow1 where ,venetian needle-point laces have been copied1 using the finest ,english thread1 and needle-laces made after old ,russian designs of the sixteenth century1#geb called ,point de ,moscou4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aai4 ,,russia4--,bobbin-made nineteenth century4 ,to face page #bhd4 #bhe;,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,england ,,to ,,queen ,,elizabeth4 ,we weare most fantastical fashions than any nation under the sun doth1 the ,french only excepted4--,coryat's ,crudities4 #afaa4 ,it would be a difficult matter for antiquaries to decide at what precise time lace1 as we now define the word1 first appears as an article of commerce in the annals of our country4 ,as early as the reign of ,edward ,,iii41#gec the excessive luxury of veils1 worn even by servant girls1 excited the indignation of the ,government1 who1 in an ,act1 dated #acfc1 forbade them to be worn of silk1 or of any other material1 mes soulement de fil fait deinz le ,roialme1 for which veils no one was to pay more than the sum of tenpence4 ,of what stuff these thread veils were composed we have no record2 probably they were a sort of network1 similar to the caul of ,queen ,philippa1 as we see represented on her tomb4#ged ,that a sort of crochet decoration used for edging was already made1 we may infer from the monumental effigies of the day4#gee ,the purse of the carpenter is described1 too1 in ,chaucer1 as purled with latoun1 a kind of metal or wire lace1 similar to that found at ,herculaneum1 and made in some parts of ,europe to a recent period4 ,m4 ,aubry refers to a commercial treaty of #acij1 between ,england and the city of ,bruges1 as the earliest mention of lace4 ,this said treaty we cannot find in ,rymer1 ,dumont1 #bhfor anywhere else4 ,we have1 as before alluded to1 constant edicts concerning the gold wires and threads of ,cipre1 ,venys1 ,luk1 and ,jeane1 of embroideries and suchlike1 but no distinct allusion to lace4#gef ,according to ,anderson1 the first intimation of such an occupation being known in ,england is the complaint1 made in #aded1 by the women of the mystery of thread-working in ,london1 in consequence of the importation of six foreign women1 by which the manufacture of needlework#geg of thread and silk1 not as yet understood1 was introduced4 ,these six women1 probably ,flemings1 had brought over to ,england the cut-work or darning of the time1 a work then unknown in this country4 ,all authors1 up to the present period1 refer to the well-known ,act of ,edward ,,iv41#geh #adfc1 in which the entry of laces1 corses1 ribans1 fringes1 de soie and de file1 laces de file soie enfile1 etc41 are prohibited1 as the first mention of lace in the public records4 ,the ,english edition of the ,foedera1 as well as the statutes at large1 freely translate these words as laces of thread1 silk twined1 laces of gold1 etc42 and the various writers on commerce and manufactures have accepted the definition as lace1 without troubling themselves to examine the question4#gei ,some even go so far as to refer to a ,,ms4 in the ,harleian ,library1#gfj giving directions for making many sorts of laces1#gfa which were in fashion in the times of ,king ,henry ,,vi4 #bhg;and ,edward ,,iv41 as a proof that lace was already well known1 and formed the occupation of the handcraftry--as those who gained their livelihood by manual occupation were then termed--of the country4 ,now1 the author has carefully examined this already quoted ,,ms41 in the principal letter of which is a damaged figure of a woman sitting and making of lace1 which is made by means of bowys4#gfb ,as regards the given directions1 we defy anyone1 save the most inveterate lover of crochet-work1 to understand one word of its contents1 beyond that it relates to some sort of twisted thread-work1 and perhaps we might1 in utter confusion of mind1 have accepted the definition as given1 had not another ,,ms4 of similar tenor1 bearing date #afea1 been also preserved in the ,british ,museum4#gfc ,this second ,,ms4 gives specimens of the laces1 such as they were1 stitched side by side with the directions1 which at once establishes the fact that the laces of silk and gold1 laces of thread1 were nothing more than braids or cords--the laces used with tags1 commonly called poynts 7the ferrets of ,anne of ,austria7--for fastening the dresses1 as well as for ornament1 previous to the introduction of pins4 ,in the ,wardrobe ,accounts of the time we have frequent notice of these laces and corses4 ,laces de quir 7cuir7 also appear in the ,statutes1#gfd which can only mean what we now term bootlaces1 or something similar4 #bhh;,in the ,total of stuffs bought for ,edward ,,iv41#gfe we have entries3 ,laces made of ryban of sylk2 two dozen laces1 and a double lace of ryban--corses of sylk with laces and tassels of sylk1 etc4 ,again1 to ,alice ,claver1 his sylkwoman1 he pays for two dozen laces and a double lace of sylk4 ,these double laces of ribbon and silk were but plaited1 a simple ornament still used by the peasant women in some countries of ,europe4 ,there must1 however1 be a beginning to everything1 and these tag laces--some made round1 others in zigzag1 like the modern braids of ladies' work1 others flat--in due course of time enriched with an edging1 and a few stitches disposed according to rule1 produced a rude lace2 and these patterns1 clumsy at first1 were1 after a season1 improved upon4 ,from the time of ,edward ,,iv4 downwards1 statute on apparel followed upon statute1 renewed for a number of years1 bearing always the same expression1 and nothing more definite4#gff ,the ,venetian galleys at an early period bore to ,england the gold work of ,luk1 ,florence1 ,jeane and ,venice4 ,in our early ,parliamentary records are many statutes on the subject4 ,it is not1 however1 till the reign of ,henry ,,vii4 that1 according to ,anderson1 ,gold and thread lace came from ,florence1 ,venice1 and ,genoa1 and became an article of commerce4 ,an ,act was then passed to prevent the buyers of such commodities from selling for a pound weight a packet which does not contain twelve ounces1 and the inside of the said gold1 silver1 and thread lace was to be of equal greatness of thread and goodness of colour as the outside thereof4#gfg ,the ,italians were in the habit of giving short lengths1 gold thread of bad quality1 and were guilty of sundry other misdemeanours which greatly excited the wrath of the nation4 ,the balance was not in ,england's favour4 ,it was the cheating ,venetians who first brought over their gold lace into ,england4 ,,plate ,,lxxv4 ,illustration3 ,,cap4 7,,flemish ,,or ,,german47--,the insertion is cut-work and needle-point4 ,the lace is bobbin-made1 and bears a resemblance to ,plate ,,xxvi41 ,south ,italian4 ,late seventeenth century4 ,length of lace about #ab in4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden from private collection4 ,to face page #bhh4 #bhi;,a warrant to the ,keeper of the ,great ,wardrobe1 in the eighteenth year of ,king ,henry's reign1#gfh contains an order for a mauntel lace of blewe silk and ,venys gold1 to be delivered for the use of our right dere and well-beloved ,cosyn the ,king of ,romayne--,maximilian1 who was made ,knight of the ,garter4#gfi ,if lace was really worn in the days of ,henry ,,vii41 it was probably either of gold or silk1 as one of the last ,acts of that monarch's reign1 by which all foreign lace is prohibited1 and those who have it in their possession may keep it and wear it till ,pentecost1#ggj was issued rather for the protection of the silk-women of the country than for the advantage of the ever-complaining workers of the mysteries of thread-work4 ,on the #crd of ,october1 #aejb1 his ,queen ,elizabeth of ,york pays to one ,master ,bonner1 at ,langley1 for laces1 rybands1 etc41 #djs42 and again1 in the same year1 #chs4 #g;d4 to ,dame ,margrette ,cotton1 for hosyn1 laces1 sope1 and other necessaries for the ,lords ,henry ,courtenay1 ,edward1 and the ,lady ,margrette1 their sister4 ,a considerable sum is also paid to ,fryer ,hercules for gold of ,venys1 gold of ,danmarke1 and making a lace for the ,king's mantell of the ,garter4#gga ,it is towards the early part of ,henry ,,viii4's reign that the ,actes of ,apparell#ggb first mention the novel luxury of shirts and partlets1 garded and pynched1#ggc in addition to clothes decorated in a similar manner1 all of which are #bij;forbidden to be worn by anyone under the degree of a knight4#ggd ,in the year #aeag there had been a serious insurrection of the ,london apprentices against the numerous foreign tradesmen who already infested the land1 which1 followed up by the never-ending complaints of the workers of the mysteries of needlework1 induced the king to ordain the wearing of such myxte joyned garded or browdered#gge articles of lynnen cloth be only allowed when the same be wrought within this realm of ,england1 ,wales1 ,berwick1 ,calais1 or the ,marches4#ggf ,the earliest record we find of laced linen is in the ,inventory of ,sir ,thomas ,l',estrange1 of ,hunstanton1 ,county of ,norfolk1 #aeai1 where it is entered1 #c elles of ,holland cloth1 for a shirte for hym1 #f shillings1 with a yard of lace for hym1 #h;d4 ,in a ,,ms4 called ,the ,boke of ,curtasye--a sort of treatise on etiquette1 in which all grades of society are taught their duties--the chamberlain is commanded to provide for his master's uprising1 a clene shirte1 bordered with lace and curiously adorned with needlework4 ,the correspondence1 too1 of ,honor4 ,lady ,lisle1 seized by ,henry ,,viii4#ggg as treasonous and dangerous to the ,state1 embraces a hot correspondence with one ,soeur ,antoinette de ,sevenges1 a nun milliner of ,dunkirk1 on the important subject of nightcaps1#ggh one half dozen of which1 she complains1 are far too wide behind1 and not of the lozenge 7cut7 work pattern she had selected4 ,the nightcaps were in consequence to be changed4 ,anne ,basset1 daughter of the said ,lady ,lisle1 educated in a ,french convent1 writes earnestly begging for an edge #biaof perle#ggi for her coif and a tablete 7tablier7 to ware4 ,her sister ,mary1 too1 gratefully expresses her thanks to her mother1 in the same year1#ghj for the laced gloves you sent me by bearer4 ,calais was still an ,english possession1 and her products1 like those of the ,scotch ,border fortresses1 were held as such4#gha ,lace still appears but sparingly on the scene4 ,among the ,privy ,purse expenses of the king in #aecj1ghb we find five shillings and eightpence paid to ,richard ,cecyll1#ghc ,groom of the ,robes1 for eight pieces of yelowe lace1 bought for the ,king's ,grace4 ,we have1 too1 in the ,harleian ,inventory1#ghd a coif laid over with passamyne of gold and silver4 ,these ,acts of ,apparell1 as regards foreign imports1 are1 however1 somewhat set aside towards the year #aedf1 when ,henry grants a licence in favour of two ,florentine merchants to export for three years' time1 together with other matters1 all manner of fryngys and passements wrought with gold or silver1 or otherwise1 and all other new gentillesses of what facyon or value soever they may be1 for the pleasure of our dearest wyeff the ,queen1 our nobles1 gentlemen1 and others4#ghe ,the king1 however1 reserves to himself the first view of their merchandise1 with the privilege of selecting anything he may please for his own private use1 before their wares were hawked about the country4 ,the said dearest wyeff1 from the date of the ,act1 must have been ,katherine ,parr2 her predecessor1 ,katherine ,howard1 had for some four years slept headless in the vaults of the ,white ,tower chapel4 ,of these gentillesses the king now began to avail himself4 ,he selects trunk sleeves of redd cloth of gold with cut-work2 knitted gloves of silk1 and handkerchers edged with gold and silver2 his towels are #bibof diaper1 with ,stafford knots1 or knots and roses2 he has coverpanes of fyne diaper of ,adam and ,eve garnished about with a narrow passamayne of ,venice gold and silver2 handkerchers of ,holland1 frynged with ,venice gold1 redd and white silk1 others of ,flanders worke1 and his shaving cloths trimmed in like fashion4#ghf ,the merchandise of the two ,florentines had found vast favour in the royal eyes4 ,though these articles were imported for our dere wyeff's sake1 beyond a perle edging to the coif of the ,duchess of ,suffolk1 and a similar adornment to the tucker of ,jane ,seymour1#ghg lace seems to have been little employed for female decoration during the reign of ,king ,henry ,,viii4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abj4 ,,fisher1 ,,bishop ,,of ,,rochester4 #aece4 7,m4 de ,versailles47 ,that it was used for the adornment of the ministers of the ,church we have ample evidence4 ,m4 ,aubry states having seen in ,london lace belonging to ,cardinal ,wolsey4 ,on this matter we have no information2 but we know the surplices were ornamented round the neck1 shoulders1 and sleeves with white work and cut-work#ghh at this period4 ,the specimens we give 7,figs4 #abj1 #aba7 are from a portrait formerly in the ,library of the ,sorbonne1 now transferred to ,versailles1 of ,fisher1 ,bishop of ,rochester1 ,cardinal ,fisher as he is styled--his cardinal's hat arriving at ,dover at the very moment the head that was to wear it had fallen at ,tower ,hill4 ,,plate ,,lxxvi4 ,illustration3 ,,english4 ,,cutwork ,,and ,,needle-,,point4--,cross said to have belonged to ,cardinal ,wolsey4 ,,plate ,,lxxvii4 ,illustration3 ,,english4 ,,devonshire ,,trolly4--,first part of nineteenth century4 ,photos by ,a4 ,dryden from private collection4 ,to face page #bib4 #bic;,about this time1 too1 lace gradually dawns upon us in the church inventories4 ,among the churchwardens' accounts of ,st4 ,mary-at-,hill1 date #aeed1 we find entered a charge of #cs4 for making the ,bishopp's 7boy bishop7 myter with stuff and lace4#ghi ,the richly-laced corporax cloths and church linen are sent to be washed by the ,lady ,ancress1 an ecclesiastical washerwoman1 who is paid by the churchwardens of ,st4 ,margaret's1 ,westminster1 the sum of #h;d42 this ,lady ,ancress1 or ,anchoress1 being some worn-out old nun who1 since the dissolution of the religious houses1 eked out an existence by the art she had once practised within the walls of her convent4 ,at the burial of ,king ,edward ,,vi41 ,sir ,edward ,waldgrave enters on his account a charge of fifty yards of gold passement lace for garnishing the pillars of the church4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aba4 ,,fisher1 ,,bishop ,,of ,,rochester4--7,m4 de ,versailles47 ,the sumptuary laws of ,henry ,,viii4 were again renewed by ,queen ,mary3#gij in them ruffles made or wrought out of ,england1 commonly called cut-work1 are forbidden to anyone under the degree of a baron2 while to women of a station beneath that of a knight's wife1 all wreath lace or passement lace of gold and silver with sleeves1 partlet or linen trimmed #bidwith purles of gold and silver1 or white-works1 alias cut-works1 etc41 made beyond the sea1 is strictly prohibited4 ,these articles were1 it seems1 of ,flemish origin1 for among the ,new ,year's ,gifts presented to ,queen ,mary1 #aeef1 we find enumerated as given by ,lady ,jane ,seymour1 a fair smock of white work1#gia ,flanders making4 ,lace1 too1 is now in more general use1 for on the same auspicious occasion1 ,mrs4 ,penne1 ,king ,edward's nurse1 gave six handkerchers edged with passamayne of golde and silke4#gib ,two years previous to these ,new ,year's ,gifts1 ,sir ,thomas ,wyatt is described as wearing1 at his execution1 on his head a faire hat of velvet1 with broad bone-work lace about it4#gic ,lace now seems to be called indifferently purle1 passamayne or bone-work1 the two first-mentioned terms occurring most frequently4 ,the origin of this last appellation is generally stated to have been derived from the custom of using sheep's trotters previous to the invention of wooden bobbins4 ,fuller so explains it1 and the various dictionaries have followed his theory4 ,the ,devonshire lace-makers1 on the other hand1 deriving their knowledge from tradition1 declare that when lace-making was first introduced into their county1 pins1#gid so indispensable to their art1 being then sold at a price far beyond their means1 the lace-makers1 mostly the wives of fishermen living along the coast1 adopted the #bie;bones of fish1 which1 pared and cut into regular lengths1 fully answered as a substitute4 ,this explanation would seem more probable than that of employing sheep's trotters for bobbins1 which1 as from #cjj to #djj are often used at one time on a pillow1 must have been both heavy and cumbersome4 ,even at the present day pins made from chicken bones continue to be employed in ,spain2 and bone pins are still used in ,portugal4#gie ,shakespeare1 in ,twelfth-,night1 speaks of ,the spinsters and the knitters in the sun1 ,and the free maids that weave their threads with bone4 ,bone lace#gif constantly appears in the wardrobe accounts1 while bobbin lace#gig is of less frequent occurrence4 ,among the ,new ,year's ,gifts presented to ,queen ,elizabeth1 we have from the ,lady ,paget a petticoat of cloth of gold stayned black and white1 with a bone lace of gold and spangles1 like the wayves of the sea2 a most astounding article1 with other entries no less remarkable but too numerous to cite4 #bif;,in the marriage accounts of ,prince ,charles#gih we have charged #aej yards of bone lace#gii for six extraordinary ruffs and twelve pairs of cuffs1 against the projected ,spanish marriage4 ,the lace was at #is4 a yard4 ,sum total1 #fg #ajs4#hjj ,bone lace is mentioned in the catalogue of ,king ,charles ,i4's pictures1 drawn up by ,vanderdort1#hja where ,james ,i4 is described without a hat1 in a bone lace falling band4#hjb ,setting aside wardrobe accounts and inventories1 the term constantly appears both in the literature and the plays of the seventeenth century4 ,buy some quoifs1 handkerchiefs1 or very good bone lace1 mistress8 cries the pert sempstress when she enters with her basket of wares1 in ,green's ,tu ,quoque1#hjc showing it to have been at that time the usual designation4 ,you taught her to make shirts and bone lace1 says someone in the ,city ,madam4#hjd ,again1 describing a thrifty wife1 ,loveless1 in ,the ,scornful ,lady1#hje exclaims-- ,she cuts cambric to a thread1 weaves bone lace1 and quilts balls admirably4 ,the same term is used in the ,tatler#hjf and ,spectator1#hjg #big;and in the list of prizes given1 in #ageb1 by the ,society of ,anti-,gallicans1 we find1 ,six pieces of bone lace for men's ruffles4 ,it continued to be applied in the ,acts of ,parliament and notices relative to lace1 nearly to the end of the eighteenth century4#hjh ,after a time1 the sheep's trotters or bones having been universally replaced by bobbins of turned box-wood1 the term fell into disuse1 though it is still retained in ,belgium and ,germany4 ,from the reign of ,queen ,mary onwards1 frequent mention is made of parchment lace 7see pp4 #big-bih71 a term most generally associated with gold and silver1 otherwise we should consider it as merely referring to needle-made lace1 which is worked on a parchment pattern4 ,but to return to ,queen ,mary ,tudor4 ,we have among the late ,queen ,mary's clothes an entry of compas#hji lace2 probably an early name for lace of geometric pattern4 ,open-work edging of gold and passamaine lace also occur2 and on her gala robes lace of ,venys gold1 as well as vales of black network1 a fabric to which her sister1 ,queen ,elizabeth1 was most partial2 partlets1#haj dressings1 shadowes1 and pynners de opere rete1 appearing constantly in her accounts4#haa ,it was at this period1 during the reign of ,henry ,,viii4 and ,mary1 a peculiar and universally prevalent fashion1 varying in degrees of eccentricity and extravagance1 to slash the garment so as to show glimpses of some contrasting underdress4 ,dresses thus slashed1 or puffed1 banded1 pinched1 stiff with heavy gold and metal braid or embroidery1 required but little additional adornment of lace4#hab ,the falling collar1 which was worn in the early part of the sixteenth century1 before the ,elizabethan ruff 7introduced from ,france about #aefj71 was1 however1 frequently edged with lace of geometric pattern4 ,early in the sixteenth century the dresses of the ladies #bih;fitted closely to the figure1 with long skirts open in front to display the underdress2 and were made low and cut square about the neck4 ,sometimes1 however1 the dresses were worn high with short waists and a small falling collar4 ,somewhat later1 when the dresses were made open at the girdle1 a partlet--a kind of habit-shirt--was worn beneath them1 and carried to the throat4#hac ,entries of lace in the wardrobe accounts are1 however1 few and inconsiderable until the reign of ,queen ,elizabeth4 ,,plate ,,lxxviii4 ,illustration3 ,,marie ,,de ,,lorraine1 #aeae-aefj4 ,,daughter ,,of ,,duc ,,de ,,guise1 ,,married ,,james ,v4 ,,of ,,scotland1 #aech4 ,this picture was probably painted before she left ,france1 by an unknown ,french artist4 ,national ,portrait ,gallery4 ,photo by ,walker and ,cockerell4 ,to face page #bih4 #bii;,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,,queen ,,elizabeth4 ,by land and sea a ,virgin ,queen ,i reign1 ,and spurn to dust both ,antichrist and ,spain4--,old ,masque4 ,tell me1 ,dorinda1 why so gay8 ,why such embroidery1 fringe and lace8 ,can any dresses find a way ,to stop the approaches of decay ,and mend a ruined face8--,lord ,dorset4 ,up to the present time our mention of lace1 both in the ,statutes and the ,royal ,wardrobe ,accounts1 has been but scanty4 ,suddenly1 in the days of the ,virgin ,queen1 both the ,privy ,expenses and the ,inventories of ,new ,year's ,gifts overflow with notices of passaments1 drawn-work1 cut-work1 crown lace1#had bone lace for ruffs1 ,spanish chain1 byas1#hae parchment1 hollow1#haf billament1#hag and diamond #cjjlace#hah in endless1 and to us1 we must own1 most incomprehensible variety4 ,the ,surtees' ,wills and ,inventories add to our list the laces ,waborne#hai and many others4 ,lace was no longer confined to the court and high nobility1 but1 as these inventories show1 it had already found its way into the general shops and stores of the provincial towns4 ,in that of ,john ,johnston1 merchant1 of ,darlington1 already cited1 we have twelve yards of loom lace1 value four shillings1 black silk lace1 statute lace1 etc41 all mixed up with entries of pepper1 hornbooks1 sugar-candy1 and spangles4 ,about the same date1 in the inventory taken after the death of ,james ,backhouse1 of ,kirby-in-,lonsdale1 are found enumerated ,in ye great shoppe1 thread lace at #afs4 per gross2 four dozen and four pyrled lace1 four shillings2 four quarterns of statching 7stitching or seaming87 lace2 lace edging2 crown lace2 hollow lace2 copper lace2 gold and silver chean 7chain7 lace1 etc4 ,this last-mentioned merchant's store appears to have been one of the best-furnished provincial shops of the period4 ,that of ,john ,farbeck1 of ,durham1 mercer1 taken thirty years later1 adds to our list seventy-eight yards of velvet lace1 coloured silk1 chayne lace1 coorld lace1 petticoat lace1 all cheek by jowl with ,venys gold and turpentine4 ,to follow the stitches and works quoted in the ,wardrobe ,accounts of ,elizabeth--all made out in ,latin1 of which we sincerely trust1 for the honour of ,ascham1 the #cja,queen herself was guiltless--would be but as the inventory of a haberdasher's shop4 ,we have white stitch1 opus ret' alb1 of which she had a kirtle1 pro le hemmynge et edginge of which1 with laqueo coronat' de auro et arg'--gold and silver crown lace--and laqueo alb' lat' bon' operat' super oss'--broad white lace worked upon bone--she pays the sum of #ces4#hbj ,then there is the ,spanish stitch1 already mentioned as introduced by ,queen ,katherine1 and true stitch1#hba laid-work1#hbb net-work1 black-work1#hbc white-work1 and cut-work4 ,of chain-stitch we have many entries1 such as ,six caules of knot-work1 worked with chain-stitch and bound cum tapem 7tape71 of sister's 7nun's7 thread4#hbd ,a scarf of white stitch-work appears also among the ,new ,year's ,gifts4 ,as regards the use1 however1 of these ornaments1 the ,queen stood no nonsense4 ,luxury for herself was quite a different affair from that of the people2 for1 on finding that the ,london apprentices had adopted the white stitching and garding as a decoration for their collars1 she put a stop to all such finery by ordering#hbe the first transgressor to be publicly whipped in the hall of his ,company4 ,laid-work1 which maybe answers to our modern plumetis1 or simply signified a braid-work1 adorned the royal garters1 ,frauncie1 which worked cum laidwork1 stitched and trimmed in ambobus lateribus with gold and silver lace1 from which hung silver pendants1 tufted cum serico color1 cost her ,majesty thirty-three shillings the pair4#hbf #cjb,the description of these right royal articles appears to have given as much trouble to describe as it does ourselves to translate the meaning of her accountant4 ,the drawn-work1 opus tract'1 seems to have been but a drawing of thread worked over silk4 ,we have smocks thus wrought and decorated cum lez ruffs et wrestbands4#hbg ,in addition to the already enumerated laces of ,queen ,elizabeth are the bride laces of ,coventry blue1#hbh worn and given to the guests at weddings1 mentioned in the ,masques of ,ben ,jonson3#hbi-- ,,clod4--,and ,i have lost1 beside my purse1 my best bride-lace ,i had at ,joan ,turnips' wedding4 ,,frances4--,ay1 and ,i have lost my thimble and a skein of ,coventry blue ,i had to work ,gregory ,litchfield a handkerchief4 ,when the ,queen visited ,kenilworth in #aegg1 a ,bridall took place for the pastime of her ,majesty4 ,first1 writes the ,chancellor1 came all the lusty lads and bold bachelors of the parish1 every wight with his blue bridesman's bride lace upon a braunch of green broom4 ,what these bride laces exactly were we cannot now tell4 ,they continued in fashion till the ,puritans put down all festivals1 ruined the #cjc;commerce of ,coventry1 and the fabric of blue thread ceased for ever4 ,it was probably a showy kind of coarse trimming1 like that implied by ,mopsa in the ,winter's ,tale1 when she says-- ,you promised me a tawdry lace3#hcj articles which1 judging from the song of ,autolycus-- ,will you buy any tape1 ,or lace for your cape8 were already hawked about among the pedlars' wares throughout the country3 one of the many laces mentioned by ,shakespeare4#hca ,dismissing1 then1 her stitches1 her laces1 and the #c1jjj gowns she left in her wardrobe behind her--for1 as ,shakespeare says1 ,fashion wears out more apparel than the man#hcb--we must confine ourselves to those articles immediately under our notice1 cut-work1 bone lace1 and purle4 ,cut-work--opus scissum1 as it is termed by the ,keeper of the ,great ,wardrobe--was used by ,queen ,elizabeth to the greatest extent4 ,she wore it on her ruffs1 with lilies of the like1 set with small seed pearl2 on her doublets1 flourished with squares of silver owes2 on her forepart of lawn1 flourished with silver and spangles2#hcc on her #cjd;cushion-cloths1#hcd her veils1 her tooth-cloths1#hce her smocks and her nightcaps4#hcf ,all nourished1 spangled1 and edged in a manner so stupendous as to defy description4 ,it was dizened out in one of these last-named articles#hcg that young ,gilbert ,talbot1 son of ,lord ,shrewsbury1 caught a sight of the ,queen while walking in the tilt-yard4 ,queen ,elizabeth at the window in her nightcap6 ,what a goodly sight6 ,that evening she gave ,talbot a good flap on the forehead1 and told her chamberlain how the youth had seen her unready and in her night stuff1 and how ashamed she was thereof4 ,cut-work first appears in the ,new ,year's ,offerings of #aegg-h1 where1 among the most distinguished of the givers1 we find the name of ,sir ,philip ,sidney1 who on one occasion offers to his royal mistress a suit of ruffs of cut-work1 on another a smock--strange presents according to our modern ideas4 ,we read1 however1 that the offering of the youthful hero gave no offence1 but was most graciously received4 ,singular enough1 there is no entry of cut-work in the ,great ,wardrobe ,accounts before that of #aehd-e1 where there is a charge for mending1 washing and starching a bodice and cuffs of good white lawn1 worked in divers places with broad spaces of ,italian cut-work1 #bj shillings1#hch and another for the same operation to a veil of white cut-work trimmed with needlework lace4#hci ,cut-work was probably still a rarity2 and really1 on reading the quantity offered to ,elizabeth on each recurring new year1 there was scarcely any necessity for her to purchase it herself4 ,by the year #aehf-g the ,queen's stock had apparently diminished4 ,now1 for the first time1 she invests the sum of sixty shillings in six yards of good ruff lawn1 well worked1 with cut-work1 and edged with good white lace4#hdj #cje;,from this date the ,great ,wardrobe ,accounts swarm with entries such as a sut' de lez ruffes de lawne1 with spaces of opere sciss'1#hda un' caule de lawne alb' sciss' cum le edge1 of similar work2#hdb a toga cum traine de opere sciss'2#hdc all minutely detailed in the most excruciating gibberish4 ,sometimes the cut-work is of ,italian#hdd fabric1 sometimes of ,flanders2#hde the ruffs edged with bone lace1#hdf needle lace1#hdg or purle4#hdh ,the needle lace is described as curiously worked1 operat' cum acu curiose fact'1 at #cbs4 the yard4#hdi ,the dearest is specified as ,italian4#hej ,we give a specimen 7,coloured ,plate ,,xv47 of ,english workmanship1 said to be of this period1 which is very elaborate4#hea ,the thread used for lace is termed filo soror1 or nun's thread1 such as was fabricated in the convents of ,flanders and ,italy4#heb ,if1 however1 ,lydgate1 in his ballad of ,london ,lackpenny1 is an authority1 that of ,paris was most prized3-- ,another he taked me by his hand1 ,here is ,paris thredde1 the finest in the land4 ,queen ,elizabeth was not patriotic2 she got and wore her #cjf;bone lace from whom she could1 and from all countries4 ,if she did not patronize ,english manufacture1 on the other hand1 she did not encourage foreign artizans2 for when1 in #aegb1 the ,flemish refugees desired an asylum in ,england1 they were forcibly expelled from her shores4 ,in the census of #aega1 giving the names of all the strangers in the ,city of ,london1#hec including the two makers of ,billament lace already cited1 we have but four foreigners of the lace craft3 one described as ,mary ,jurdaine1 widow1 of the ,french nation1 and maker of purled lace2 the other1 the before-mentioned ,callys de ,hove1 of ,burgundy4#hed ,various ,acts#hee were issued during the reign of ,elizabeth in order to suppress the inordinate use of apparel4 ,that of ,may1 #aefb1hef though corrected by ,cecil himself1 less summary than that framed against the white-work of the apprentice boys1 was of little or no avail4 ,in #aefh a complaint was made to the ,queen against the frauds practised by the #af appointed waiters1 in reference to the importation of haberdashery1 etc41 by which it appears that her ,majesty was a loser of #e or #fjj l4 by yere at least in the customs on parsement1 cap rebone bone lace1 cheyne lace1 etc41#heg but with what effect we know not4 ,the annual import of these articles is therein stated at #aj1jjj1 an enormous increase since the year #aeei1 when1 among the necessary and unnecessary wares brought into the port of ,london1#heh together with babies 7dolls71 glasses to looke in1 glasses to drinke in1 pottes1 gingerbread1 cabbages1 and other matters1 we find enumerated1 ,laces of all sortes1 #gge #fs4 #h;d41 just one-half less than the more necessary1 though less refined item of eles fresh and salt4#hei ,in #aegc ,elizabeth again endeavoured to suppress the silk glittering with silver and gold lace1 but in vain4 #cjg,the ,queen was a great lover of foreign novelties4 ,all will call to mind how she overhauled the ,french finery of poor ,mary ,stuart#hfj on its way to her prison1 purloining and selecting for her own use any new-fashioned article she craved4 ,we even find ,cecil1 on the sly1 penning a letter to ,sir ,henry ,norris1 her ,majesty's envoy to the court of ,france1 that the ,queen's ,majesty would fain have a tailor that has skill to make her apparel both after the ,french and ,italian manner1 and she thinketh you might use some means to obtain such one as suiteth the ,queen without mentioning any manner of request in the ,queen's ,majesty's name4 ,his lady wife is to get one privately1 without the knowledge coming to the ,queen ,mother's ears1 as she does not want to be beholden to her4 ,it is not to be wondered at1 then1 that the ,new ,year's ,gifts and ,great ,wardrobe ,accounts#hfa teem with entries of doublets of peche satten all over covered with cut-work and lyned with a lace of ,venyse gold1#hfb kyrtells of white satten embroidered with purles of gold-like clouds1 and layed round about with a bone lace of ,venys gold4#hfc ,this gold lace appears upon her petticoats everywhere varied by bone lace of ,venys silver4#hfd ,that the ,queen drew much fine thread point from the same locality her portraits testify1 especially that preserved in the royal gallery of ,gripsholm1 in ,sweden1 once the property of her ill-fated admirer1 ,eric ,,xiv4 ,she wears a ruff1 cuffs1 tucker1 and apron of geometric lace1 of exquisite fineness1 stained of a pale citron colour1 similar to the liquid invented by ,mrs4 ,turner1 of ,overbury memory1 or1 maybe1 adopted from the saffron-tinted smocks of the ,irish1 the wearing of which she herself had prohibited4 ,we find among her entries laces of ,jean#hfe and ,spanish lace2 she did not even disdain bone lace of copper1 and copper and silver #cjh;at #ah;d4 the ounce4#hff ,some of her furnishers are ,english4 ,one ,wylliam ,bowll supplies the ,queen with lace of crowne purle4#hfg ,of her sylkwoman1 ,alice ,mountague1 she has bone lace wrought with silver and spangles1 sold by the owner at nine shillings4#hfh ,the ,queen's smocks are entered as wrought with black work and edged with bone lace of gold of various kinds4 ,we have ourselves seen a smock said to have been transmitted as an heirloom in one family from generation to generation4#hfi ,it is of linen cloth embroidered in red silk1 with her favourite pattern of oak-leaves and butterflies 7,fig4 #abb74 ,many entries of these articles1 besides that of ,sir ,philip ,sidney's1 appear among the ,new ,year's ,gifts4#hgj ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abb4 ,,queen ,,elizabeth',s ,,smock4 ,it was then the custom for the sponsors to give #cji;christening shirts1 with little bands and cuffs edged with laces of gold and various kinds--a relic of the ancient custom of presenting white clothes to the neophytes when converted to ,christianity4 ,the bearing cloth1#hga as the mantle used to cover the child when carried to baptism was called1#hgb was also richly trimmed with lace and cut-work1 and the ,tree of ,knowledge1 the ,holy ,dove 7,fig4 #abc71 or the ,flowerpot of the ,annunciation 7,fig4 #abd71 was worked in hollie-work on the crown of the infant's cap or biggin4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abd4 ,,christening ,,caps1 ,,needle-,,made ,,brussels4--,eighteenth century4 ,aprons1 too1 of lace appeared in this reign4 ,the ,queen1 as we have mentioned1 wears one in her portrait at ,gripsholm4#hgc ,those aprons white1 of finest thread1 ,so choicelie tied1 so dearly bought2 ,so finely fringed1 so nicely spread2 ,so quaintly cut1 so richly wrought1 writes the author of ,pleasant ,quippes for ,upstart ,gentlewomen1 #caj;in #aeif4 ,the fashion continued to the end of the eighteenth century4 ,laced handkerchiefs now came into fashion4 ,maydes and gentlewomen1 writes ,stowe1 gave to their favourites1 as tokens of their love1 little handkerchiefs of about three or four inches square1 wrought round about1 with a button at each corner4#hgd ,the best were edged with a small gold lace4 ,gentlemen wore them in their hats as favours of their mistresses4 ,some cost sixpence1 some twelvepence1 and the richest sixteenpence4 ,of the difference between purles and true lace it is difficult now to decide4 ,the former word is of frequent occurrence among the ,new ,year's ,gifts1 where we have sleeves covered all over with purle1#hge and1 in one case1 the sleeves are offered unmade1 with a piece of purle upon a paper to edge them4#hgf ,it was yet an article of great value and worthy almost of entail1 for1 in #aegc1 ,elizabeth ,sedgwicke1 of ,wathrape1 widow1 bequeaths to her daughter ,lassells1 of ,walbron1 an edge of perlle for a remembrance1 desirying her to give it to one of her daughters4#hgg ,we now turn1 before quitting the sixteenth century1 to that most portentous of all fabrications--,queen ,elizabeth's ruff4 ,in the time of the ,plantagenets ,flemish tastes prevailed4 ,with the ,tudors1 ,katherine of ,aragon1 on her marriage with ,prince ,arthur1 introduced the ,spanish fashions1 and the inventories from ,henry ,,viii4 downwards are filled with ,spanish work1 ,spanish stitch1 and so forth4 ,queen ,elizabeth leant to the ,french and ,italian modes1 and during the ,stuarts they were universally adopted4 ,the ruff was first introduced into ,england about the reign of ,philip and ,mary4 ,these sovereigns are both represented on the ,great ,seal of ,england with small ruffs about #caatheir necks1 and with diminutive ones of the same form encircling the wrists4#hgh ,this ,spanish ruff was not ornamented with lace4 ,on the succession of ,queen ,elizabeth the ruff had increased to a large size1 as we see portrayed on her ,great ,seal4 ,the art of starching1 though known to the manufacturers of ,flanders1 did not reach ,england until #aefd1 when the ,queen first set up a coach4 ,her coachman1 named ,gwyllam ,boenen1 was a ,dutchman2 his wife understood the art of starching1 a secret she seems exclusively to have possessed1 and of which the ,queen availed herself until the arrival1 some time after1 of ,madame ,dinghen van der ,plasse1 who1 with her husband1 came from ,flanders for their better safeties1#hgi and set up as a clear-starcher in ,london4 ,the most curious wives1 says ,stowe1 now made themselves ruffs of cambric1 and sent them to ,madame ,dinghen to be starched1 who charged high prices4 ,after a time they made themselves ruffs of lawn1 and thereupon arose a general scoff1 or by-word1 that shortly they would make their ruffs of spiders' webs4 ,mrs4 ,dinghen at last took their daughters as her pupils4 ,her usual terms were from four to five pounds for teaching them to starch1 and one pound for the art of seething starch4#hhj ,the nobility patronised her1 but the commonalty looked on her as the evil one1 and called her famous liquid devil's broth4 ,to keep the ruff erect1 bewired#hha and starched though it be1 was a troublesome affair--its falling a cause of agony to the wearer4 ,not so close1 thy breath will draw my ruff1 exclaims the fop4 ,the tools used in starching and fluting #cabruffs were called setting-sticks1 struts and poking-sticks3 the two first were made of wood or bone1 the poking-stick of iron1 and heated in the fire4 ,by this heated tool the fold acquired that accurate and seemly order which constituted the beauty of this very preposterous attire4 ,it was about the year #aegf1 according to ,stowe1 the making of poking-sticks began4 ,they figure in the expenses of ,elizabeth1 who1 in #aeib1 pays to her blacksmith1 one ,thomas ,larkin1 pro #b de lez setting-stickes at #bs4 #f;d4 the sum of #es4#hhb ,we have frequent allusion to the article in the plays of the day3--#hhc ,your ruff must stand in print1 and for that purpose1 get poking-sticks with fair long handles1 lest they scorch your hands4#hhd ,again1 in ,laugh and ,lie ,down--#hhe ,there she sat with her poking-stick1 stiffening a fall4 ,when the use of starch and poking-sticks had rendered the arrangement of a ruff easy1 the size began rapidly to increase4 ,both men and women wore them intolerably large1 being a quarter of a yard deep1 and twelve lengths in a ruff4#hhf ,in ,london this fashion was termed the ,french ruff2 in ,france1 on the other hand1 it was called the ,english monster4#hhg ,queen ,elizabeth wore hers higher and stiffer than anyone in ,europe1 save the ,queen of ,navarre1 for she had a yellow throat1 and was desirous to conceal it4#hhh ,woe betide any fair lady of the court who dared let her white skin appear uncovered in the presence of majesty4 ,her ruffs were made of the finest cut-work1 enriched with gold1 silver1 and even precious stones4 ,though she consumed endless yards of cut-work1 purle1 needlework lace1 bone lace of gold1 of silver1 enriched with pearls1 and bugles1 #cac;and spangles in the fabrication of the three-piled ruff1#hhi she by no means extended such liberty to her subjects1 for she selected grave citizens and placed them at every gate of the city to cut the ruffs if they exceeded the prescribed depth4 ,these pillars of pride form a numerous item among the ,new ,year's ,gifts4 ,each lady seems to have racked her brain to invent some novelty as yet unheard of to gratify the ,queen's vanity4 ,on the new year #aeei-fj1 the ,countess of ,worcester offers a ruff of lawn cut-work set with twenty small knots like mullets1 garnished with small sparks of rubies and pearls4#hij ,the cut-work ruff is decorated or enriched with ornament of every description4 ,nothing could be too gorgeous or too extravagant4#hia ,great was the wrath of old ,philip ,stubbes#hib at these monstrosities1 which1 standing out a quarter of a yard or more1 if olus with his blasts or ,neptune with his stormes chaunce to hit upon the crazie bark or their bruised ruffes1 then they goe flip flap in the winde like ragges that flew abroade1 lying upon their shoulders like the dishclout of a slut4 ,but wot ye what8 the devill1 as he1 in the fulnesse of his malice1 first invented these great ruffes1 etc41 with a great deal more1 which1 as it comes rather under the head of costume than lace1 we omit1 as foreign to our subject4 ,lace has always been made of human hair1 and of this we have frequent mention in the expenses of ,queen ,elizabeth4 ,we believe the invention to be far older than her reign1 for there is frequent allusion to it in the early romaunces4 ,in the ,chevalier aux ij ,epes 7,,ms4 ,bib4 ,nat471 a lady requires of ,king ,ris that he should present her with a mantle fringed with the beards of nine conquered kings1 and hemmed with that of ,king ,arthur1 who was yet to conquer4 ,the mantle is to have de sa barbe le tassel4 #cad,the entries of ,elizabeth1 however1 are of a less heroic nature2 and though we are well aware it was the custom of old ladies to weave into lace their silver-grey locks1 and much as the fashion of hair bracelets and chains prevails1 in ,queen ,elizabeth's case1 setting aside all sentiment1 we cannot help fancying the laquei fact' de crine brayded cum lez risinge puffs1#hic as well as the devices fact' de crine similiter les scallop shells1#hid to have been nothing more than stuffings--false additions1 to swell the majesty of the royal pirrywygge4 ,that point tresse1 as this hair-lace is called1 was known in her day1 we have evidence in the ,chartley inventory of ,mary ,stuart1 in which is mentioned1 ,un petit quarr fait point tresse ouvr par la vieille ,comtesse de ,lennox elle estant la ,tour2 a tribute of affection the old countess would scarcely have offered to her daughter-in-law had she regarded her as implicated in the murder of her son4 ,the writer saw at ,chantilly an aged lace-maker employed in making a lace ground of hair on the pillow1 used1 she was informed1 by wig-makers to give the parting of the hair2 but the fabric must be identical with the point tresse sent by the mother of ,darnley to the ,queen of ,scots4 ,point tresse1 when made out of the hair of aged people1 is occasionally to be met with on the ,continent1 where1 from its rarity1 it fetches a high price4 ,some districts gained a reputation for their work1 according to ,turner3--,and ,bedford's matrons wove their snowy locks4 ,it may be detected by the glittering of the hair when held up to catch the sunbeams1 or by frizzing when exposed to the test of fire1 instead of blazing4 ,with this mention of point tresse we conclude the reign of ,queen ,elizabeth4 #cae;,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,james ,i4 ,,to ,,the ,,restoration4 ---- ,,james ,i4 ,now up aloft ,i mount unto the ,ruffe1 ,which into foolish mortals pride doth puffe2 ,yet ,ruffe's antiquity is here but small3 ,within these eighty years not one at all4 ,for the #hth ,henry1 as ,i understand1 ,was the first king that ever wore a ,band1 ,and but a falling band plaine with a hem1 ,all other people knew no use of them4 ,taylor1 ,water-,poet4 #afdj4 ,the ruff single1 double1 three piled1 and ,ddalian1#hie to the delight of the satirists1 retained its sway during the early days of ,king ,james ,i4 ,it was the commode of the eighteenth--the crinoline of the nineteenth century4 ,every play teems with allusions to this monstrosity4 ,one compares it to ,a pinched lanthorn ,which schoolboys made in winter2#hif while a second#hig talks of a ,starched ruff1 like a new pigeon-house4 ,the lover1 in the play of the ,antiquary1#hih complains to his mistress in pathetic terms-- ,do you not remember how you fooled me1 and set me to pin pleats in your ruff two hours together8 #caf,stubbes stood not alone in his anathemas4 ,the dignitaries of the ,church of ,england waxed wroth1 and violent were their pulpit invectives4 ,fashion1 emphatically preached ,john ,king1#hii ,bishop of ,london1 has brought in deep ruffs#ijj and shallow ruffs1 thick ruffs and thin ruffs1 double ruffs and no ruffs4 ,when the ,judge of quick and dead shall appear1 he will not know those who have so defaced the fashion he hath created4 ,the ,bishop of ,exeter1 too1 ,joseph ,hall1 a good man1 but no prophet1 little wotting how lace-making would furnish bread and comfort to the women of his own diocese for centuries to come1 in a sermon preached at the ,spitel1 after a long vituperation against its profaneness1 concludes with these words3 ,but if none of our persuasions can prevail1 hear this1 ye garish popinjays of our time1 if ye will not be ashamed to clothe yourselves after this shameless fashion1 ,heaven shall clothe you with shame and confusion4 ,hear this1 ye plaister-faced ,jezabels1 if ye will not leave your daubs and your washes1 ,heaven will one day wash them off with fire and brimstone4 ,whether these denunciations had the effect of lessening the ruffs we know not2 probably it only rendered them more exaggerated4 ,of these offending adjuncts to the toilet of both sexes we have fine illustrations in the paintings of the day1 as well as in the monuments of our cathedrals and churches4#ija ,they were composed of the finest geometric lace1 such as we see portrayed in the works of ,vinciolo and others4 ,the artists of the day took particular pleasure in depicting them with the most exquisite minuteness4 ,these ruffs must have proved expensive for the wearer1 though in ,james ,i4's time1 as ,ben ,jonson has it1 men thought little of turning four or five hundred acres of their best land into two or three trunks of apparel4#ijb ,according to the ,wardrobe ,accounts1#ijc twenty-five yards of fyne bone lace was required to edge a ruff1 without counting the ground1 composed either of lace squares or cut-work4 ,queen ,anne1 his consort1 pays #e for her wrought ruff1 for shewing which eighteen yards of fine lace are purchased at #es4 #h;d4#ijd ,,plate ,,lxxix4 ,illustration3 ,,mary ,,sidney1 ,,countess ,,of ,,pembroke1 ,,in #afad4 #aeee8--afba4--,probably by ,marc ,gheeraedts4 ,national ,portrait ,gallery4 ,photo by ,walker and ,cockerell4 ,to face page #caf4 #cag,the ruffs of the ,city ladye were kept downe by the old sumptuary law of ,elizabeth4 ,see1 now1 that you have not your 'city ruff' on1 ,mistress ,sue1 says ,mistress ,simple in the ,city ,match4#ije ,the ,overbury murder 7#afac71 and hanging of ,mrs4 ,turner at ,tyburn in #afae1 are usually said1 on the authority of ,howel1#ijf to have put an end to the fashion of yellow ruffs1 but the following extracts show they were worn for some years later4 ,as late as #afbj the yellow starch1 supposed to give a rich hue to the lace and cut-work of which ruffs were built1 gave scandal to the clergy4 ,the ,dean of ,westminster ordered no lady or gentleman wearing yellow ruffs to be admitted into any pew in his church2 but finding this ill taken1 and the ,king moved in it1 he ate his own words1 and declared it to be all a mistake4#ijg ,this fashion1 again1 gave great offence even in ,france4 ,since the ,english#ijh #cah;alliance1 writes the ,courtisane la ,mode1 #afbe1iji cette mode ,anglaise sera cause qu'il pourra advenir une chert sur le safran qui fera que les ,bretons et les ,poitevins seront contraints de manger leur beurre blanc et non pas jaune1 comme ils sont accoutums4 ,the ,bishops1 who first denounced the ruff1 themselves held to the fashion long after it had been set aside by all other professions4 ,folks were not patriotic in their tastes1 as in more modern days2 they loved to go as far as ,paris to fetch over a fashion and come back again4#iaj ,the lace of ,flanders1 with the costly points and cut-works of ,italy1#iaa now became the rage1 and continued so for nigh two centuries4 ,ben ,jonson speaks of the ruffs and cuffs of ,flanders1#iab while ,lord ,bacon1 indignant at the female caprice of the day1 writes to ,sir ,george ,villiers3--,our ,english dames are much given to the wearing of costly laces1 and if they may be brought from ,italy1 or ,france1 or ,flanders1 they are in much esteem2 whereas1 if like laces were made by the ,english1 so much thread would make a yard of lace1 being put into that manufacture1 would be five times1 or perhaps ten or twenty times the value4#iac ,but ,bacon had far better have looked at home1 for he had himself1 when ,chancellor1 granted an exclusive patent to ,sir ,giles ,mompesson1 the original of ,sir ,giles ,overreach1 for the monopoly of the sale and manufacture of gold and silver thread1 the abuses of which caused in part his fall4#iad ,james had half ruined the commerce of ,england by the granting of monopolies1 which1 says ,sir ,john ,culpepper1 are as numerous as the frogs of ,egypt4 ,they have got possession of our dwellings1 they sip in our cups1 they dip in our #cai;dish4 ,they sit by our fire4 ,we find them in the dye-vat1 wash-bowl1 and powdering-tub1 etc42 they have marked and sealed us from head to foot4#iae ,the bone-lace trade suffered alike with other handicrafts4#iaf ,in #afjf ,james had already given a license to the ,earl of ,suffolk#iag for the import of gold and silver lace4 ,in #afba1 alarmed by the general complaints throughout the kingdom1#iah a proposition was made for the erection of an ,office of ,pomp1 to promote home manufactures1 and to repress pride by levying taxes on all articles of luxury4#iai ,what became of the ,pomp ,office we cannot pretend to say3 the following year we are somewhat taken aback by a petition#ibj from two ,dutchmen1 of ,dort1 showing that the manufacture of gold and silver thread1 purle1 etc41 in ,england was a great waste of bullion1 the said ,dutchmen being1 we may infer1 of opinion that it was more to their advantage to import such articles themselves4 ,after a lapse of three years the petition is granted4#iba ,in the midst of all this granting and rescinding of monopolies1 we hear in the month of ,april1 #afbc1 how the decay of the bone-lace trade at ,great ,marlow caused great poverty4#ibb ,though the laces of ,flanders and ,italy were much patronised by the court and high nobility1 ,queen ,anne of ,denmark appears to have given some protection to the fabrics of the country4 ,poor ,queen ,anne6 ,when1 on the news of ,elizabeth's death1 ,james hurried off to ,england1 a correspondence took place between the ,king and the ,english ,privy ,council regarding the ,queen's outfit1 ,james considering1 #cbj;and wisely--for the ,scotch court was always out of elbows--that his wife's wardrobe was totally unfit to be produced in ,london4 ,to remedy the deficiency1 the ,council forwarded to the ,queen1 by the hands of her newly-named ladies1 a quantity of ,elizabeth's old gowns and ruffs1 wherewith to make a creditable appearance on her arrival in ,england4 ,elizabeth had died at the age of seventy1 wizened1 decayed1 and yellow--,anne1 young and comely1 had but just attained her twenty-sixth year4 ,the rage of the high-spirited dame knew no bounds2 she stormed with indignation--wear the clothes she must1 for there were no others--so in revenge she refused to appoint any of the ladies1 save ,lady ,bedford1 though nominated by the ,king1 to serve about her person in ,england4 ,on her arrival she bought a considerable quantity of linen1 and as with the exception of one article1#ibc purchased from a ,french mann1 her nidell purle worke1 her white worke1 her small nidell worke1 her pece of lawin to bee a ruffe1 with eighteen yards of fine lace to shewe 7sew7 the ruffe1 the ,great ,bone lace1 and ,little ,bone lace were purchased at ,winchester and ,basing1 towns bordering on the lace-making counties1 leading us to infer them to have been of ,english manufacture4#ibd ,the bill of laced linen purchased at the ,queen's lying down on the birth of the ,princess ,sophia1 in #afjf1 amounts to the sum of #fad #es4 #h;d4#ibe ,in this we have no mention of any foreign-made laces4 ,the child lived but three days4 ,her little monument1 of cradle-form1 with lace-trimmed coverlets and sheets 7,fig4 #abe71 stands close to the recumbent effigy of her sister ,mary#ibf 7,fig4 #abf71 with ruff1 collar1 and cap of geometric lace1 in the north aisle of ,henry ,,vii4's ,chapel4#ibg ,,plate ,,lxxx4 ,illustration3 ,,henry ,,wriothesley1 ,,third ,,earl ,,of ,,southampton1 #aegc-afbd4--,probably painted in ,holland about #afbj1 by ,michiel ,van ,miereveldt4 ,national ,portrait ,gallery4 ,photo by ,walker and ,cockerell4 ,to face page #cbj4 #cba;,illustration3 ,fig4 #abe4 ,,monument ,,of ,,the ,,princess ,,sophia4 #afjf4 ,,fourth ,,daughter ,,of ,,james ,i4 7,westminster ,abbey47 ,after a time--epoch of the ,spanish marriage#ibh--the ruff #cbb;gave way to the falling band1 so familiar to us in the portraits of ,rubens and ,vandyke4 ,there is such a deal of pinning these ruffs1 when a fine clean fall is worth them all1 says the ,malcontent4 ,if you should chance to take a nap in the afternoon1 your falling band requires no poking-stick to recover it4#ibi ,cut-work still continued in high favour2 it was worn on every article of linen1 from the richly-wrought collar to the nightcap4 ,the ,medicean ruff or gorget of the ,countess of ,pembroke 7,sidney's sister1 ,pembroke's mother71 with its elaborate border of swans 7,fig4 #abg71 is a good illustration of the fashion of her time4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abf4 ,,monument ,,of ,,the ,,princess ,,mary4 #afjg4 ,,third ,,daughter ,,of ,,james ,i4 7,westminster ,abbey47 ,among the early entries of ,prince ,charles1 we have four nightcaps of cut-work1 #g1icj for making two of which for his #cbc;,highness1 garnished with gold and silver lace1 ,patrick ,burke receives #ae2ica but these modest entries are quite put to shame by those of his royal father1 who1 for ten yards of needlework lace pro le edginge of his galiriculis vulgo nightcaps1 pays #af #acs4 #d;d4#icb ,well might the ,water-,poet exclaim-- ,a nightcap is a garment of high state4#icc ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abg4 ,,mary1 ,,countess ,,of ,,pembroke4 #afba4 7,from her portrait in ,walpole's ,royal and ,noble ,authors47 ,when ,queen ,anne died1 in #afai1 we have an elaborate #cbd;account of her funeral1#icd and of the sum paid to ,dorothy ,speckart for dressing a hearse effigy with a large veil1 wired and edged with peak lace and lawn1 curiously cut in flowers1 etc4 ,laced linen1 however1 was already discarded in mourning attire1 for we find in the charges for the king's mourning ruffs1 an edging at #ad;d4 the piece is alone recorded4#ice ,towards the end of ,james ,i4's reign a singular custom came into fashion1 brought in by the ,puritan ladies1 that of representing religious subjects1 both in lace1 cut-work1 and embroidery1 a fashion hitherto confined to church vestments4 ,we find constant allusions to it in the dramatists of the day4 ,thus1 in the ,city ,match1#icf we read-- ,she works religious petticoats1 for flowers ,she'll make church histories4 ,her needle doth ,so sanctify my cushionets1 besides ,my smock sleeves have such holy embroideries1 ,and are so learned1 that ,i fear in time ,all my apparel will be quoted by ,some pious instructor4 ,again1 in the ,custom of the ,country--#icg ,sure you should not be ,without a neat historical shirt4 #cbe,we find in a ,scotch inventory#ich of the seventeenth century3 ,of ,holland scheittes ii pair1 quhairof i pair schewit 7sewed7 with hollie work4#ici ,the entries of this reign1 beyond the hollie work1 picked#idj and seaming#ida lace1 contain little of any novelty2 all articles of the toilet were characterised by a most reckless extravagance4 ,there is not a gentleman now in the fashion1 says ,peacham1#idb whose band of ,italian cut-work now standeth him not in the least three or four pounds4 ,yes1 a semster in ,holborn told me that there are of threescore pounds4 ,we read how two-thirds of a woman's dower was often expended in the purchase of cut-work and ,flanders lace4 ,in the warrant of the ,great ,wardrobe for the marriage expenses of the ill-fated ,princess ,elizabeth1 on which occasion it is recorded of poor ,arabella ,stuart1 the ,lady ,arabella1 though still in the ,tower1 has shewn her joy by buying four new gowns1 one of which cost #a1ejj1idc in addition to gold cheine laze1 silver spangled1 silver looped1 myllen bone lace1 drawneworke poynte1 black silk ,naples lace1 etc41 all in the most astonishing quantity1 we have the astounding entry of #a1fib ounces of silver bone lace4#idd ,no wonder1 in #cbf;after days1 the ,princess caused so much anxiety to the ,palatine's ,privy ,purse1 ,colonel ,schomberg1 who in vain implores her to have her linen and lace bought beforehand1 and paid at every fair4#ide ,you brought1 he writes1 #c1jjj worth of linen from ,england1 and have bought #a1jjj worth here1 and yet you are ill provided4#idf ,,charles ,i4 ,embroider'd stockings1 cut-work smocks and shirts4 --,ben ,jonson4 ,ruffs may literally be said to have gone out with ,james ,i4 ,his son ,charles is represented on the coins of the two first years of his reign in a stiff starched ruff2#idg in the fourth and fifth we see the ruff unstarched1 falling down on his shoulders1#idh and afterwards1 the falling band 7,fig4 #abh7 was generally adopted1 and worn by all classes save the judges1 who stuck to the ruff as a mark of dignity and decorum1 till superseded by the peruke4#idi ,,plate ,,lxxxi4 ,illustration3 ,,elizabeth1 ,,princess ,,palatine1 ,,granddaughter ,,of ,,james ,i41 #afah-afhj4--,probably about #afch4 ,by ,gerard ,honthorst4 ,national ,portrait ,gallery4 ,photo by ,walker and ,cockerell4 ,to face page #cbf4 #cbg;,illustration3 ,fig4 #abh4 ,,falling ,,collar ,,of ,,the ,,seventeenth ,,century4--7,after ,abraham ,bosse47 ,even loyal ,oxford1 conscientious to a hair's-breadth--always behind the rest of the world--when ,whitelock1 in #afce1 addresses the ,quarter ,sessions arrayed in the new fashion1 owned one may speak as good sense in a falling band as in a ruff4 ,the change did not1 however1 diminish the extravagance of the age4 ,the bills for the ,king's lace and linen1 which in the year #afbe amounted to #a1jjj1 in course of time rose to #a1ejj4iej ,falling bands of ,flanders bone lace and cut-work appear constantly in the accounts4#iea ,as the foreign materials are carefully specified 7it was one of these articles1 then a novelty1 that ,queen ,anne of ,denmark bought of the ,french ,mann71 we may infer much of the bobbin or bone lace to have been of home produce4 ,as ,ben ,jonson says1 ,rich apparel has strong virtues4 ,it is1 he adds1 the birdlime of fools4 ,there was1 indeed1 no article of toilet at this period which was not encircled with lace--towels1 sheets1 shirts1 caps1 cushions1 boots 7,fig4 #abi71 cuffs 7,fig4 #acj7--;and1 as too often occurs in the case of excessive luxury1 when the bills came in money was wanting to #cbh;discharge them1 ,julian ,elliott1 the royal lace merchant1 seldom receiving more than half her account1 and in #afcj--nothing4#ieb ,there were1 as ,shakespeare says1 ,bonds entered into ,for gay apparel against the triumph day4#iec ,the quantity of needlework purl consumed on the king's hunting collars1 colares pro venatione1 scarcely appears credible4 ,one entry alone makes #iid yards for #ab collars and #bd pairs of cuffs4#ied ,again1 #fjj yards of fine bone lace is charged for trimming the ruffs of the ,king's night-clothes4#iee ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abi4 ,from an ,engraving of ,abraham ,bosse4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acj4 ,from an ,engraving of ,abraham ,bosse4 ,the art of lace-making was now carried to great perfection in ,england2 so much so1 that the lease of twenty-one years1 granted in #afbg to ,dame ,barbara ,villiers1 of the duties on gold and silver thread1 became a terrible loss to the holder1 who1 in #afbi1 petitions for a discharge of #dcg #ajs4 arrears due to the ,crown4 ,the prayer is favourably received by the officers of the ,customs1 to whom it was referred1 who answer they conceive those duties will decay1 for the invention of making ,venice gold and silver lace within the kingdom is come to that perfection1 that it will be made here more cheap than it can be brought from beyond seas4#ief ,the fancy for foreign articles still prevailed4 ,among the goods brought in by ,tristram ,stephens1 writes ,sir ,john ,hippisley1 from ,dover ,castle1 are the bravest ,french bandes that ever ,i did see for ladies--they be fit for the ,queen4#ieg ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aca4 ,,english ,,needle-,,made ,,lace4 ,to face page #cbh4 #cbi;,gold lace was exported in considerable quantities to ,india in the days of ,james ,i42#ieh and now1 in #afca1 we find the riband roses1 edged with lace1 notified among the articles allowed to be exported4 ,these lace rosette-trimmed shoes were in vogue in the time of ,james ,i41 and when first brought to that monarch he refused to adopt the fashion1 asking1 ,if they wanted to make a ruffe-footed dove of him4 ,they were afterwards worn in all the extravagance of the ,french court4 7,see ,france to ,louis ,,xiv474 ,mr4 ,brooks1 in his speech in the ,house of ,commons against costly apparel 7#ah ,james ,i471 says1 ,nowadays1 the roses worn by ,members of the ,house on their shoes are more than their father's apparel4 ,peacham speaks of shoe ties1 that goe under the name of roses1 from thirty shillings to three1 four1 and five pounds the pair4 ,yea1 a gallant of the time1 not long since1 paid thirty pounds for a pair4#iei ,well might ,taylor say they ,wear a farm in shoe-strings edged with gold1 ,and spangled garters worth a copyhold4 ,it was not till the year #afce that an effort was made for #ccjthe protection of our home fabrics1 at the request and for the benefit of the makers of those goods in and near ,london1 and other parts of the realm1 now brought to great want and necessity1 occasioned by the excessive importation of these foreign wares4 ,foreign ,purles1 ,cutworks1 or ,bone-laces1 or any commodities laced or edged therewith1 are strictly prohibited4 ,orders are also given that all purles1 cut-works1 and bone laces ,english made are to be taken to a house near the sign of the ,red ,hart in ,fore ,street1 without ,cripplegate1 and there sealed by ,thomas ,smith or his deputy4#ifj ,an ,act the same year prohibits the use of gold or silver purles except manufactured in foreign parts1 and especially forbids the melting down any coin of the realm4 ,the manufacture of bone lace in ,england had now much improved1 and was held in high estimation in ,france4 ,we hear of ,henrietta ,maria sending ribbons1 lace1 and other fashions from ,england1 in #afcf1 as a present to her sister-in-law1 ,anne of ,austria2#ifa while1 in a letter dated ,february #gth1 #afcf1 the ,countess of ,leicester writes to her husband1 then in ,france1 who had requested her to procure him some fine bone lace of ,english make3--,the present for the ,queen of ,france ,i will be careful to provide1 but it cannot be handsome for that proportion of money which you do mention2 for these bone laces1 if they be good1 are dear1 and ,i will send the best1 for the honor of my nation and my own credit4 ,referring to the same demand1 the ,countess again writes to her lord1 ,may #ahth1 #afcg1 ,leicester ,house3--,all my present for the ,queen of ,france is provided1 which ,i have done with great care and some trouble2 the expenses ,i cannot yet directly tell you1 but ,i think it will be about #abj1 for the bone laces are extremely dear4 ,i intend to #ccasend it by ,monsieur ,ruvigny1 for most of the things are of new fashion1 and if ,i should keep them they would be less acceptable1 for what is new now will quickly grow common1 such things being sent over almost every week4 ,we can have no better evidence of the improvement in the ,english lace manufacture than these two letters4 ,an ,act of #afch for reforming abuses in the manufacture of lace1 by which competent persons are appointed1 whether natives or strangers1 who shall be of the ,church of ,england1 can scarcely have been advantageous to the community4 ,lace1 since the ,reformation1 had disappeared from the garments of the ,church4 ,in the search warrants made after ,jesuits and priests of the ,roman faith1 it now occasionally peeps out4 ,in an inventory of goods seized at the house of some ,jesuit priests at ,clerkenwell1 in #afbg1 we find--,one faire ,alb of cambric1 with needle worke purles about the skirts1 necke1 and bandes4 ,smuggling1 too1 had appeared upon the scene4 ,in #afba information is laid1 how ,nicholas ,peeter1 master of the ,greyhound1 of ,apsom1 had landed at ,dover sundry packets of cut-workes and bone laces without paying the ,customs4#ifb ,but the ,rebatoes1 ribbands1 cuffs1 ruffs1 falls1 ,scarfes1 feathers1 fans1 maskes1 muffs1 laces1 cauls1#ifc of ,king ,charles's court were soon to disperse at the now outbreaking ,revolution4 ,the ,herrn ,maior ,frau 7,lady ,mayoress71 the noble ,english lady depicted by ,hollar1#ifd must now lay aside her whisk1 edged with broad lace of needle point1 and no longer hie to ,st4 ,martin's for lace3#ife she must content herself with a plain attire4 ,sempsters with ruffs and cuffs1 and quoifs and caules ,and falls1#iff must be dismissed4 ,smocks of three pounds a-piece1#ifg #ccbwrought smocks1#ifh are no longer worn by all--much less those seam'd thro' with cutwork1#ifi or lace to her smocks1 broad seaming laces1#igj which1 groans one of the ,puritan writers1 is horrible to think of4 ,the ruff and cuffs of ,flanders1 gold lace cut-work and silver lace of curle1#iga needle point1 and fine gartering with blown roses1#igb are now suppressed under ,puritan rule4 ,the fop whom ,henry ,fitz-,geoffrey describes as having ,an attractive lace ,and whalebone bodies for the better grace1 must now think twice before he wears it4#igc ,the officer1 whom the poor soldier apostrophises as shining-- ,one blaze of plate about you1 which puts out ,our eyes when we march 'gainst the sunne1 and armes you ,compleatly with your own gold lace1 which is ,laid on so thick1 that your own trimmings doe ,render you engine proof1 without more arms--#igd must no longer boast of ,this shirt five times victorious ,i have fought under1 ,and cut through squadrons of your curious ,cut-work1 ,as ,i will do through mine4#ige ,in the ,roundhead army he will scarce deign to comb his cropped locks4 ,all is now dingy1 of a sad colour1 soberly in character with the tone of the times4 ,,plate ,,lxxxii4 ,illustration3 ,,james ,,harrington1 ,author of ,oceana1 #afaa-afgg4 ,between #afcj-afdj4 ,by ,gerard ,honthorst4 ,national ,portrait ,gallery4 ,photo by ,walker and ,cockerell4 ,to face page #ccb4 #ccc,,the ,,commonwealth4 ,the rule of the ,puritans was a sad time for lace-makers1 as regards the middle and lower classes3 every village festival1 all amusement was put down1 bride laces and ,mayings--all were vanity4 ,with respect to the upper classes1 the ,puritan ladies1 as well as the men of birth1 had no fancy for exchanging the rich dress of the ,stuart ,court for that of the ,roundheads4 ,sir ,thomas ,fairfax1 father of the ,general1 is described as wearing a buff coat1 richly ornamented with silver lace1 his trunk hose trimmed with costly ,flanders lace1 his breastplate partly concealed by a falling collar of the same material4 ,the foreign ,ambassadors of the ,parliament disdained the ,puritan fashions4 ,lady ,fanshaw describes her husband as wearing at the ,court of ,madrid1 on some ,state occasion1 his linen very fine1 laced with very rich ,flanders lace4#igf ,indeed1 it was not till the arrival of the ,spanish envoy1 the first accredited to the ,protectorate of ,cromwell1 that ,harrison begged ,colonel ,hutchinson and ,lord ,warwick to set an example to other nations at the audience1 and not appear in gold and silver lace4 ,colonel ,hutchinson1 though he saw no harm in a rich dress1 yet not to appear offensive1 came next day in a plain black suit1 as did the other gentlemen1 when1 to the astonishment of all1 ,harrison appeared in a scarlet coat so laden with clinquaint and lace as to hide the material of which it was made1 showing1 remarks ,mrs4 ,hutchinson1 his godly speeches were only made that he might appear braver above the rest in the eyes of the strangers4 ,nor did the mother of ,cromwell lay aside these adornments4 ,she wore a handkerchief1 of which the broad point-lace alone could be seen1 and her green velvet cardinal was edged with broad gold lace4#igg ,cromwell himself1 when once in power1 became more particular in his dress2 and if he lived as a ,puritan1 his body after death was more gorgeously attired than that of any deceased sovereign1 with purple velvet1 ermine1 and the richest ,flanders lace4#igh ,his effigy1 #ccd;carved by one ,symonds1 was clad in a fine shirt of ,holland1 richly laced2 he wore bands and cuffs of the same materials1 and his clothes were covered with gold lace4#igi ,the more we read the more we feel convinced that the dislike manifested by the ,puritan leaders to lace and other luxuries was but a political necessity1 in order to follow the spirit of the age4 ,as an illustration of this opinion we may cite that in the account of the disbursements of the ,committee of ,safety1 #affj1 a political jeu d'esprit which preceded the ,restoration1 we find entered for ,lady ,lambert-- ,item1 for seven new whisks lac'd with ,flanders lace of the last ,edition1 each whisk is valued at fifty pound1 #cej4 ,followed up by-- ,six new ,flanders lac'd smocks1 #cjj4 ,the whisk1 as the gorget was now termed1 was as great an object of extravagance to the women as was the falling band to the men4 ,it continued in fashion during the reign of ,charles ,,ii41 and is often mentioned as lost or stolen among the advertisements in the public journals of the day4 ,in the ,mercurius ,publicus1 ,may #hth1 #affb1 we find3 ,a cambric whisk with ,flanders lace1 about a quarter of a yard broad1 and a lace turning up about an inch broad1 with a stock in the neck1 and a strap hanging down before1 was lost between the new ,palace and ,whitehall4 ,reward1 #cjs4 ,again1 in ,the ,newes1 ,june #bjth1 #affd3 ,lost1 a ,tiffany whisk1 with a great lace down1 and a little one up1 large ,flowers1 and open ,work1 with a ,roul for the head and ,peak4 #cce;,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,,charles ,,ii4 ,,to ,,the ,,house ,,of ,,hanover4 ---- ,,charles ,,ii4 ,the dangling knee-fringe1 and the bib-cravat4 --,dryden4 ,prologue4 #afgd4 ,the taste for luxury only required the restoration of the ,stuarts to burst out in full vigour4 ,the following year ,charles ,,ii4 issued a proclamation#ihj enforcing the ,act of his father prohibiting the entry of foreign bone lace2 but1 far from acting as he preached1 he purchases ,flanders lace at eighteen shillings the yard1 for the trimming of his fine lawn collobium sindonis1#iha a sort of surplice worn during the ceremony of the anointment at the coronation4 ,the hand-spinners of gold wire1 thread lace1 and spangles of the ,city of ,london1 no longer puritanically inclined1 now speak out boldly4 ,having heard a report the ,parliament intend to pass an ,act against the wearing of their manufacture1 they hope it intends the reform1 not the destruction of their craft1 for by it many thousands would be ruined4 ,let every person1 say they1 be prohibited from wearing gold1 silver1 and thread lace--that will encourage the gentry to do so4#ihb ,in #affb is passed an ,act prohibiting the importation of foreign bone lace1 cut-works1 etc41 setting forth1 ,whereas many poor children have attained great dexterity in the #ccfmaking thereof1 the persons so employed have served most parts of the kingdom with bone lace1 and for the carrying out of the same trade have caused much thread to be brought into the country1 whereby the customs have been greatly advanced1 until of late large quantities of bone lace1 cut-work1 etc41 were brought into the kingdom and sold contrary to the former ,statutes and the proclamation of ,november last2 all such bone lace is to be forfeited1 and a penalty of #ajj paid by the offender4#ihc ,this same ,act only occasioned the more smuggling of lace from ,flanders1 for the point made in ,england had never attained the beauty of ,brussels1 and indeed1 wherever fine lace is mentioned at this period it is always of foreign fabric4 ,that ,charles himself was of this opinion there can be no doubt1 for in the very same year he grants to one ,john ,eaton a license to import such quantities of lace made beyond the seas1 as may be for the wear of the ,queen1 our dear ,mother the ,queen1 our dear brother ,james1 ,duke of ,york1 and the rest of the royal family4 ,the permission is softened down by the words1 ,and to the end the same may be patterns for the manufacture of these commodities here1 notwithstanding the late ,statute forbidding their importation4#ihd ,charles had evidently received his lessons in the school of ,mazarin4 ,as the galleries of the cardinal were filled with sculptures1 paintings1 and majolica--rich produce of ,italian art1 as patterns for ,france1 per mostra di farne in ,francia--so the king's pilea nocturna1 pillow-beres1 cravats1 were trimmed with the points of ,venice#ihe and ,flanders1 at the rate of #fjj per annum1 for the sake of improving the lace manufacture of ,england4 ,the introduction of the flowing wig1 with its long curls covering the shoulders1 gave a final blow to the falling band2 #ccgthe ends floating and tied in front could alone be visible4 ,in time they diminished in size1 and the remains are still seen in the laced bands of the lawyer1 when in full dress1 and the homely bordered cambric slips used by the clergy4 ,the laced cravat now introduced continued in fashion until about the year #agce4ihf ,it was at its height when ,pepys writes in his diary3 ,lord's ,day1 ,oct4 #ai1 #affb4 ,put on my new lace band1 and so neat it is that ,i am resolved my great expense shall be lace bands1 and it will set off anything else the more4 ,the band was edged with the broadest lace4 ,in the ,newes1 ,january #gth1 #affc1 we find3 ,lost1 a laced band1 the lace a quarter of a yard deep1 and the band marked in the stock with a ,b4 ,mrs4 ,pepys--more thrifty soul--wears her green petticoat of ,florence satin1 with white and black gimp lace of her own putting on 7making71 which is very pretty4 ,the custom1 already common in ,france1 of ladies making their own lace1 excites the ire of the writer of ,britannia ,languens1 in his ,discourse upon ,trade4#ihg ,the manufacture of linen1#ihh he says1 was once the huswifery of ,english ladies1 gentlewomen1 and other women2 now the huswifery women of ,england employ themselves in making an ill sort of lace1 which serves no national or natural necessity4 ,the days of ,puritan simplicity were at an end4 ,instead of homespun coifs were seen ,good pinners edged with ,colberteen4#ihi ,the laced cravat succeeded the falling collar4 ,lace handkerchiefs#iij were the fashion1 and ,gloves laced and trimmed as fine as ,nell's4#iia #cch,laced aprons1 which even found their way to the homes of the ,anglican clergy1 and appear advertised as ,stolen from the vicarage house at ,amersham in ,oxfordshire3 ,an apron of needlework lace1 the middle being ,network1 another ,apron laced with cut and slash lace4#iib ,the newspapers crowd with losses of lace1 and rarer--finds4#iic ,they give us1 however1 no clue to the home manufacture4 ,a pasteboard box full of laced linen1 and a little portmanteau with some white and grey ,bone lace1#iid would seem to signify a lace much made two hundred years ago1 of which we have ourselves seen specimens from ,dalecarlia1 a sort of guipure1 upon which the pattern is formed by the introduction of an unbleached thread1 which comes out in full relief--a fancy more curious than pretty4 ,the petticoats of the ladies of ,king ,charles's court have received due honour at the hands of ,pepys1 whose prying eyes seem to have been everywhere4 ,on ,may #ba of the same year he so complacently admired himself in his new lace band1 he writes down3 ,my wife and ,i to my ,lord's lodging2 where she and ,i staid walking in ,white ,hall ,gardens4 ,and in the ,privy ,garden saw the finest smocks and linnen petticoats of my ,lady ,castlemaine's1 laced with rich lace at the bottom1 that ever ,i saw2 and it did me good to look at them4 ,speaking of the ladies' attire of this age1 ,evelyn says3-- ,another quilted white and red1 ,with a broad ,flanders lace below2 ,four pairs of bas de soye shot through #cci ,with silver2 diamond buckles too1 ,for garters1 and as rich for shoe4 ,twice twelve day smocks of ,holland fine1 ,with cambric sleeves rich ,point to joyn 7,for she despises ,colbertine72 ,twelve more for night1 all ,flanders lac'd1 ,or else she'll think herself disgrac'd4 ,the same her night gown must adorn1 ,with two ,point waistcoats for the morn2 ,of pocket mouchoirs1 nose to drain1 ,a dozen laced1 a dozen plain2 ,three night gowns of rich ,indian stuff2 ,four cushion-cloths are scarce enough ,of ,point and ,flanders1#iie etc4 ,it is difficult now to ascertain what description of lace was that styled ,colbertine4#iif ,it is constantly alluded to by the writers of the period4 ,randle ,holme 7#afhh7 styles it1 ,a kind of open lace with a square grounding4#iig ,evelyn himself1 in his ,fop's ,dictionary 7#afij71 gives1 ,colbertine1 a lace resembling net-work of the fabric of ,monsieur ,colbert1 superintendent of the ,french ,king's manufactures2 and the ,ladies' ,dictionary1 #afid1 repeats his definition4 ,this is more incomprehensible still1 point d',alenon being the lace that can be specially styled of the fabric of ,colbert1 and ,colbertine appears to have been a coarse production4#iih ,swift talks of knowing ,the difference between ,rich ,flanders lace and ,colberteen4#iii ,congreve makes ,lady ,westport say--#ajjj ,go hang out an old ,frisonier gorget with a yard of yellow ,colberteen4 ,and a traveller1 in #afia1ajja speaking of ,paris1 writes3--,you shall see here the finer sort of people flaunting it in tawdry gauze or ,colbertine1 a parcel of coarse staring ribbons2 but ten of their holyday habits shall not amount to what a citizen's wife of ,london wears on her head every day4 #cdj;,,james ,,ii4 ,the reign of ,james ,,ii41 short and troubled1 brought but little change in the fashion of the day2 more prominence1 however1 was given to the lace cravats1 which were worn loosely round the throat1 and with their ends hanging down over the upper part of the vest4 ,charles ,,ii41 in the last year of his reign1 spends #bj #abs4 for a new cravat to be worn on the birthday of his dear brother1#ajjb and ,james expends #bi upon one of ,venice point to appear in on that of his queen4 ,frequent entries of lace for the attendants of the ,chapel ,royal form items in the ,royal ,wardrobe ,accounts4 ,ruffles1 night-rails1 and cravats of point d',espagne and de ,venise now figure in ,gazettes1#ajjc but ,flanders lace is still in high estimation1 writes somebody1 in #affh1 and even fans are made of it4 ,then ,james ,,ii4 fled1 and years after we find him dying at ,st4 ,germains in--a laced nightcap4 ,this cap was called a 'toquet1' and put on when the king was in extremis1 as a compliment to ,louis ,,xiv4 ,it was the court etiquette for all the ,royals1 writes ,madame1 in her ,memoirs1 to die with a nightcap on4 ,the toquet of ,king ,james may still be seen by the curious1 adorning a wax model of the king's head1 preserved as a relic in the ,museum of ,dunkirk4#ajjd ,out of mingled gratitude1 we suppose1 for the hospitality she had received at the ,french court1 and the protection of the angels1 which1 she writes1 ,i experienced once when ,i #cdaset fire to my lace night cornet1 which was burned to the very head without singeing a single hair--good ,queen ,mary of ,modena1 who shone so brightly in her days of adversity1 died1 selon les rgles1 coeffed in like fashion4 ,with this notice we finish the ,st4 ,germains reign of ,king ,james the ,second4 ,,william ,,iii4 ,long wigs1 ,steinkirk cravats4 --,congreve4 ,love for ,love4 ,in ,william ,,iii4's reign1 the full shirt-sleeves1 with their lace ruffles1 were shown at the wrists1 and the loose neckcloths had long pendent ends terminating in lace1 if they were not entirely made of that material4 ,the hat1 too1 was edged with gold lace1 and for summer wear the gloves were edged with lace4 ,women's sleeves1 at first short1 wide and lace-edged1 showing the delicate sleeves of the under garment1 soon became tight1 and were prolonged to the wrists1 where they terminated in deep and wide upturned cuffs1 whence drooped a profusion of lace lappets and ruffles4 ,the hair1 combed up1 and with an inclination backwards from the forehead1 was surmounted by a strata of ribbon and lace1 sometimes intermingled with feathers1 and a kerchief or scarf of some very light material was permitted to hang down to the waist1 or below it4 ,in #afih the ,english ,parliament passed another ,act for rendering the laws more effectual for preventing the importation of foreign ,bone lace1 ,loom lace1 ,needlework ,point1 and ,cutwork1#ajje with a penalty of #bjs4 per yard1 and forfeiture4 ,this ,act caused such excitement among the convents and bguinages of ,flanders that the ,government1 at that time under the dominion of ,spain1 prohibited1 by way of retaliation1 the importation of ,english wool4 ,in consequence of the general distress occasioned by this edict #cdb;among the woolstaplers of ,england1 the ,act prohibiting the importation of foreign lace into ,england was repealed1#ajjf so far as related to the ,spanish ,low ,countries4 ,england was the loser by this ,custom-,house war4#ajjg ,dress1 after the ,revolution1 partook of the stately sobriety of the ,house of ,nassau1 but lace was extensively worn4 ,queen ,mary favoured that wonderful erection1 already spoken of in our chapter on ,france1#ajjh the tower or fontange1 more generally called1 certainly not from its convenience1 the commode1 with its piled tiers of lace and ribbon1 and the long hanging pinners1 celebrated by ,prior in his ,tale of the ,widow and her ,cat3-- ,he scratch'd the maid1 he stole the cream1 ,he tore her best lac'd pinner4 ,their ,flanders lace heads1 with the engageantes#ajji or ruffles1 and the dress covered with lace frills and flounces--every part of the garment in curl--caused a lady1 says the ,spectator1 to resemble a ,friesland hen4#ajaj ,never yet were such sums expended on lace as in the days of ,william and ,mary4 ,the lace bill of the ,queen1 signed by ,lady ,derby1 ,mistress of the ,robes1 for the year #afid1 amounts to the enormous sum of #a1iah4ajaa ,among the most extravagant entries we find3-- 4 s4 d4 #ba yards of lace for #ab pillow beres1 at #ebs4 #ed #ab #j #af yards of lace for #b toylights 7toilets71 at #ab #aib #j #j #bd yards for #f handkerchiefs1 at #d #ajs4 #ajh #j #j #cj yards for #f night shifts1 at #fbs4 #ic #j #j #f yards for #b combing cloths1 at #ad #hd #j #j #c yards for a combing cloth at #ag #ec #b #f #cdc #c-a_/h do4 at #ad #db #j #j ,an apron of lace #ag #j #j ,none of the lace furnished by ,mr4 ,bampton1 thread lace provider and milliner to the court1 for the ,queen's engageantes and ruffles1 however1 seems to have exceeded #e #ajs4 the yard4 ,there is little new in this account4 ,the lace is entered as scalloped1#ajab ruffled1 loopt3 lace purle#ajac still lingers on2 catgut1 too1 appears for the first time1#ajad as well as raised point#ajae and needlework4#ajaf ,the ,queen's pinners are mentioned as ,mazzarined2#ajag some fashion named in honour of the once fair ,hortense1 who ended her exiled life in ,england4 ,what do you lack1 ladies fair1 ,mazzarine hoods1 ,fontanges1 girdles8#ajah ,king ,william himself1 early imbued with the ,dutch taste for lace1 exceeded1 we may say1 his wife in the extravagance of his lace bills2 for though the lace account for #afij is noted only at #a1fjc1 it increases annually until the year #afie-f1 when the entries amount to the astonishing sum of #b1dei #ais4#ajai ,among the items charged will be found3-- 4 s4 d4 ,to six point cravats #aeh #j #j ,to eight do4 for hunting #he #j #j #ed yds4 for #f barbing cloths #bgj #j #j #fc yds4 for #f combing cloths #bhc #aj #j #aag yards of sciss teni 7cut-work7 for trimming #ab pockethandfs #dhe #ad #c #gh yds4 for #bd cravats1 at #h #ajs4 #ffc #j #j #cdd;,in this right royal account of expenditure we find mention of cockscombe lacini1 of which the ,king consumes #cdd yards4#ajbj ,what this may be we cannot say1 as it is described as green and white2 otherwise we might have supposed it some kind of ,venice point1 the little pearl-edged raised patterns of which are designated by ,randle ,holme as cockscombs4 ,more coquet than a woman1 we find an exchange effected with ,henry ,furness1 ,mercatori1 of various laces1 purchased for his handkerchiefs and razor cloths1 which1 laid by during the two years of lugubris for his beloved consort1 the ,queen--during which period he had used razor cloths with broad hems and no lace--had become obsolete--quite out of fashion4 ,to effect this exchange the ,king pays the sum of #agh #abs4 #f;d41 the lace purchased for the six new razor cloths amounting to #bgj4 ,in the same page we find him1 now out of mourning1 expending #dii #ajs4 for lace to trim his twenty-four new nightshirts1 indusiis nocturnis4 ,with such royal patronage1 no wonder the lace trade prospered1 and that1 within ten years of ,william's death1 ,defoe should quote the point lace of ,blandford as selling at #cj the yard4 ,,plate ,,lxxxiii4 ,illustration3 ,,james1 ,,the ,,old ,,pretender1 #afhh-agff1 ,,with ,,his ,,sister ,,princess ,,louisa1 #afib-agab4 ,in #afie4 ,by ,nicolas de ,largillire4 ,national ,portrait ,gallery4 ,photo by ,walker and ,cockerell4 ,to face page #cdd4 #cde,we have already told how the fashion of the laced ,steinkirk found as much favour in ,england#ajba as in ,france4 ,many people still possess1 among their family relics1 long oval-shaped brooches of topaz or ,bristol stones1 and wonder what they were used for4 ,these old-fashioned articles of jewellery were worn to fasten 7when not passed through the button-hole7 the lace ,steinkirk1 so prevalent not only among the nobility1 but worn by all classes4 ,if the dialogue between ,sir ,nicholas ,dainty and ,major-,general ,blunt1 as given in ,shadwell's play1 be correct1 the volunteers of ,king ,william's day were not behind the military in elegance3-- ,,sir ,,nicholas4--,i must make great haste1 ,i shall ne'er get my ,points and ,laces done up time enough4 ,,maj4 ,,gen4 ,b4--,what say'st1 young fellow8 ,points and ,laces for camps8 ,,sir ,,nich4--,yes1 ,points and ,laces2 why1 ,i carry two laundresses on purpose4444 ,would you have a gentleman go undress'd in a camp8 ,do you think ,i would see a camp if there was no dressing8 ,why1 ,i have two campaign suits1 one trimmed with ,flanders lace1 and the other with rich ,point4 ,,maj4 ,,gen4 ,b4--,campaign suits with lace and ,point6#ajbb ,in ,westminster ,abbey1 where1 as somewhat disrespectfully1 say the ,brothers ,popplewell1#ajbc the images of ,william and ,mary ,stand upright in a press1 with their bodies made of wax1 ,a globe and a wand in either hand and their robes upon their backs-- the lace tucker and double sleeves of ,queen ,mary are of the finest raised ,venice point1 resembling ,fig4 #bi2 ,king ,william likewise wears a rich lace cravat and ruffles4#ajbd ,in a memorandum 7carta d'informazione7 given to the ,venetian ambassadors about to proceed to ,england1 #afif1 they are to be provided with very handsome collars of the finest ,venetian point1 which1 it is added1 is also the best present to make4#ajbe ,before concluding the subject of the lace-bearing heroes1 we may as well state here that the ,english soldiers rivalled the cavaliers of ,france in the richness of their points till the extinction of hair-powder 7the wearing of which in the army consumes1 says some indignant writer1 flour enough to feed #fjj1jjj persons per annum71 when the lace cravat was replaced by the stiff and cumbersome stock4 ,speaking of #cdfthese military dandies1 writes the ,world3 ,nor can ,i behold the lace and the waste of finery in their clothing but in the same light as the silver plates and ornaments on a coffin2 indeed1 ,i am apt to impute their going to battle so trimmed and adorned to the same reason a once fine lady painted her cheeks just before she expired1 that she might not look frightful when she was dead4 ,to war the troops advance1 ,adorned and trim like females for the dance4 ,down sinks ,lothario1 sent by one dire blow1 ,a well-dress'd hero to the shades below4 ,as the justice's daughter says to her mamma1 in ,sheridan's ,st4 ,patrick's ,day3-- ,dear2 to think how the sweet fellows sleep on the ground1 and fight in silk stockings and lace ruffles4 ,lace had now become an article worthy the attention of the light-fingered gentry4 ,the jewels worn by our great-grandmothers of the eighteenth century1 though mounted in the most exquisite taste1 were for the most part false--,bristol or ,alenon diamonds1 paste1 or ,strass4 ,lace1 on the other hand1 was a sure commodity and easily disposed of4 ,at the robbery of ,lady ,anderson's house in ,red ,lion ,square during a fire1 in #agjj1 the family of ,george ,heneage1 ,esq41 on a visit1 are recorded to have lost--,a head with fine loopt lace1 of very great value2 a ,flanders lace hood2 a pair of double ruffles and tuckers2 two laced aprons1 one point1 the other ,flanders lace2 and a large black lace scarf embroidered in gold4 ,again1 at an opera row some years later1 the number of caps1 ruffles1 and heads enumerated as stolen by the pickpockets is quite fabulous4 ,so expert had they become1 that when first the ladies took to wearing powdered wigs1 they dexterously cut open the leather backs of the hack coaches and carried off wig1 head and all1 before the rifled occupant had the slightest idea of their attack4#ajbf ,to remedy the evil1 the police request all ladies for the future to sit with their backs to the horses4#ajbg #cdg,,queen ,,anne4 ,,parley4--,oh1 ,sir1 there's the prettiest fashion lately come over6 so airy1 so ,french1 and all that6 ,the ,pinners are double ruffled with twelve plaits of a side1 and open all from the face2 the hair is frizzled up all round head1 and stands as stiff as a bodkin4 ,then the ,favourites hang loose upon the temple with a languishing lock in the middle4 ,then the ,caule is extremely wide1 and over all is a ,cornet rais'd very high and all the ,lappets behind4--,farquhar4 ,sir ,harry ,wildair4 ,queen ,anne1 though less extravagant than her sister1 was scarcely more patriotic4 ,the point purchased for her coronation1#ajbh though it cost but #fd #acs4 #i;d41 was of ,flanders growth4 ,the bill is made out to the royal laceman of ,king ,william's day1 now ,sir ,henry ,furnesse1 knight and merchant4 ,the ,queen1 too1 in her gratitude1 conferred a pension of #ajj upon one ,mrs4 ,abrahat1 the royal clear-starcher2 because1 writes the ,duchess of ,marlborough1 she had washed the ,queen's heads for twenty pounds a year when she was princess4 ,in #agjf ,anne again repeals the ,acts which prohibit ,flanders lace1 with the clear understanding that nothing be construed into allowing the importation of lace made in the dominions of the ,french ,king2#ajbi an edict in itself sufficient to bring the points of ,france into the highest fashion4#ajcj ,france1 writes an essayist1 is the wardrobe of the world2 nay1 the ,english have so great an esteem for the workmanship of the ,french refugees1 that hardly a thing vends without a ,gallic name4#ajca ,to the refugees from ,alenon and elsewhere1 expelled by the cruel edict of ,louis ,,xiv41 we owe the visible improvement of our laces in the eighteenth century4 ,up to the present time we have had mention only of #cdh;,flanders lace in general4 ,in the reign of ,queen ,anne the points of ,macklin and ,brussels are first noted down in the ,royal ,wardrobe ,accounts4 ,in #agaj her ,majesty pays for #bf yards of fine edged ,brussels lace #aea4ajcb ,mais1 l'apptit vient en mangeant4 ,the bill of ,margareta ,jolly1 for the year #agab1 for the furnishing of ,mechlin and ,brussels lace alone1 amounts to the somewhat extravagant sum of #a1dah #ads4 ,taking the average price of the ,lace chanter on ,ludgate ,hill1 articles of daily use were costly enough4 ,one ,brussels head is valued at #dj2 a grounded ,brussels head1 #cj2 one looped ,brussels1 #cj4 ,these objects1 high as the price may seem1 lasted a woman's life4 ,people in the last century did not care for variety1 they contented themselves with a few good articles2 hence among the objects given in #agai1 as necessary to a lady of fashion1 we merely find3-- s4 d4 ,a ,french point or ,flanders head and ruffles #hj #j #j ,a ditto handkerchief #aj #j #j ,a black ,french laced hood #e #e #j ,when the ,princess ,mary1 daughter of ,george ,,ii41 married1 she had but four fine laced ,brussels heads1 two loopt and two grounded1 two extremely fine point ones1 with ruffles and lappets1 six ,french caps and ruffles4#ajcc ,two point lace cravats were considered as a full supply for any gentleman4 ,even young extravagant ,lord ,bedford1 who1 at eighteen years of age1 found he could not spend less than #f1jjj a year at ,rome1 when on the grand tour1 only charges his mother1 ,rachel ,lady ,russell1 with that number4#ajcd ,the high commode1#ajce with its lace rising tier upon tier1 which made the wits about town declare the ladies carried ,bow steeple upon their heads1 of a sudden collapsed in ,queen ,anne's reign4 ,it had shot up to a most extravagant height1 insomuch that the female part of our species were #cdimuch taller than the men4 ,we appeared1 says the ,spectator1#ajcf as grasshoppers before them4#ajcg ,in #agaa ,anne forbade the entry of gold and silver lace1#ajch of which the consumption had become most preposterous1#ajci under pain of forfeiture and the fine of #ajj4 ,ladies wore even cherry-coloured stays trimmed with the forbidden fabric4#ajdj ,the point of ,spain had the preference over thread lace for state garments1 heads and ruffles excepted2 and as late as #agfc1 when the ,dowager ,lady ,effingham was robbed of her coronation robes1 among the wonderful finery detailed there is no mention of thread lace4 ,the commerce of ,flanders1 notwithstanding the ,french taste1 seemed now on a comfortable footing4 ,the ,flander-kins1 writes the ,british ,merchant in #agac1 are gone off from wool1 which we have got1 to lace and linen4444 ,we have learned better1 ,i hope1 by our unsuccessful attempt to prohibit the ,flanders laces1 which made the ,flemings retaliate upon us1 and lessened our exportation of woollen manufactures by several #ajj1jjj per annum4#ajda ,men looked upon lace as a necessary article to their wives' equipment4 ,addison declares that when the ,china mania first came in1 women exchanged their ,flanders point for punch-bowls and mandarins1 thus picking their husbands' pockets1 who is often purchasing a huge china vase when he fancies that he is buying a fine head for his wife4#ajdb ,indeed1 they could scarcely grumble1 as a good wig cost from forty to fifty guineas--to say nothing of their own lace ties and #cejruffles4 ,only an old antiquary like ,sir ,thomas ,clayton could note down in his accounts3--,lace and fal-lalls1#ajdc and a large looking-glass to see her old ugly face in--frivolous expenses to please my proud lady4 #cea;,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,,george ,i4 ,,and ,,ii4 ---- ,,george ,i4 ,wisdom with periwigs1 with cassocks grace1 ,courage with swords1 gentility with lace4--,connoisseur4 ,the accession of the ,house of ,hanover brought but little change either in the fashions or the fabrics4 ,in #agag the ,king published an edict regarding the hawking of lace1 but the world was too much taken up with the ,old ,pretender and the court of ,st4 ,germains2 the ,king1 too1 was often absent1 preferring greatly his ,german dominions4 ,we now hear a great deal of lace ruffles2 they were worn long and falling4 ,lord ,bolingbroke1 who enraged ,queen ,anne by his untidy dress--she supposed1 forsooth1 he would some day come to court in his nightcap--is described as having his cravat of point lace1 and his hands hidden by exaggerated ruffles of the same material4 ,in good old ,jacobite times1 these weeping ruffles served as well to conceal notes--poulets--passed from one wary politician to another1 as they did the ,french sharpers to juggle and cheat at cards4 ,lace continued the mania of the day4 ,since your fantastical geers came in with wires1 ribbons1 and laces1 and your furbelows with three hundred yards in a gown and petticoat1 there has not been a good housewife in the nation1#ajdd writes an indignant dramatist4 ,the lover was made to bribe the ,abigail of his mistress with a piece of ,flanders lace#ajde--;an offering not to be resisted4 ,lace appeared #ceb;at baptisms1#ajdf at marriages1 as well as at burials1 of which more hereafter--even at the ,old ,bailey1 where one ,miss ,margaret ,caroline ,rudd1 a beauty of the day1 tried for forgery1 quite moved her jurors to tears1 and nigh gained her acquittal by the taste of her elegantly-laced stomacher1 the lace robings of her dress1 and single lace flounce1 her long pendulous ruffles1 hanging from the elbow1 heard1 fluttering in her agitation1 by the court2 but1 in spite of these allurements1 ,margaret ,caroline ,rudd was hanged4 ,every woman1 writes ,swift1#ajdg is ,in choosing lace a critic nice1 ,knows to a groat the lowest price4 ,together1 they ,of caps and ruffles hold the grave debate1 ,as of their lives they would decide the fate4 ,again1 he says3-- ,and when you are among yourselves1 how naturally1 after the first compliments1 do you entertain yourselves with the price and choice of lace1 apply your hands to each other's lappets and ruffles1 as if the whole business of your life and the public concern depended on the cut of your petticoats4#ajdh ,even wise ,mrs4 ,elizabeth ,montague1 who wrote epistles about the ancients1 and instead of going to a ball1 sat at home and read ,sophocles1 exclaims to her sister--,surely your heroic spirit will prefer a beau's hand in ,brussels lace to a stubborn ,scvola without an arm4 ,,plate ,,lxxxiv4 ,illustration3 ,,john ,,law1 ,,the ,,paris ,,banker1 ,author of the ,mississippi ,scheme1 #afga-agbi4--;,in cravat of ,point de ,france1 between #agjh-bj4 ,painted by ,belle4 ,national ,portrait ,gallery4 ,photo by ,walker and ,cockerell4 ,to face page #ceb4 #cec;,in the middle of the nineteenth century it was the fashion that no young lady should wear lace previous to her marriage4 ,in the reign of ,george ,,ii4 etiquette was different1 for we find the ,duchess of ,portland presenting ,mrs4 ,montague1 then a girl1 with a lace head and ruffles4 ,wrathfully do the satirists of the day rail against the expense of ,the powder1 patches1 and the pins1 ,the ribbon1 jewels1 and the rings1 ,the lace1 the paint1 and warlike things ,that make up all their magazines1#ajdi and the consequent distress of the lace merchants1 to whom ladies are indebted for thousands4 ,after a drawing-room1 in which the fair population appeared in borrowed1 i4e41 unpaid lace1#ajej one of the chief lacemen became well-nigh bankrupt4 ,duns besieged the houses of the great3-- ,by mercers1 lacemen1 mantua-makers press'd2 ,but most for ready cash1 for play distress'd1 ,where can she turn8#ajea ,the ,connoisseur1 describing the reckless extravagance of one of these ladies1 writes3--,the lady played till all her ready money was gone1 staked her cap and lost it1 afterwards her handkerchief4 ,he then staked both cap and handkerchief against her tucker1 which1 to his pique1 she gained4 ,when enumerating the various causes of suicide1 he proposes that an annual bill or report should be made out1 giving the different causes which have led to the act4 ,among others1 in his proposed ,bill of ,suicide1 he gives ,french claret1 ,french lace1 ,french cooks1 etc4 ,the men1 though scarcely coming up to the standard of ,sir ,courtly ,nice1#ajeb who has all his bands and linen made in ,holland and washed at ,haarlem1 were just as extravagant as the ladies4 #ced;,,george ,,ii4 ',how well this ribband's glass becomes your face1' ,she cries in rapture2 'then so sweet a lace6 ,how charmingly you look6' --,lady ,m4 ,w4 ,montagu4 ,town ,eclogues4 ,for court and state occasions ,brussels lace still held its sway4 ,in the reign of ,george ,,ii4 we read how1 at the drawing-room of #agce1 fine escalloped ,brussels laced heads1 triple ditto laced ruffles1#ajec lappets hooked up with diamond solitaires1 found favour4 ,at the next the ladies wore heads dressed ,english1 i4e41 bow of fine ,brussels lace of exceeding rich patterns1 with the same amount of laced ruffles and lappets4 ,gold flounces were also worn4 ,speaking of the passion for ,brussels lace1 ,postlethwait indignantly observes3--',tis but a few years since ,england expended upon foreign lace and linen not less than two millions yearly4 ,as lace in particular is the manufacture of nuns1 our ,british ladies may as well endow monasteries as wear ,flanders lace1 for these ,popish nuns are maintained by ,protestant contributions4#ajed ,patriotism1 it would appear1 did come into vogue in the year #agcf1 when at the marriage of ,frederick1 ,prince of ,wales1 the bride is described as wearing a night-dress of superb lace1 the bridegroom a cap of similar material4 ,all the laces worn by the court on this occasion are announced to have been of ,english manufacture1 with the exception of that of the ,duke of ,marlborough1 who appeared in point d',espagne4 ,the bride1 however1 does not profit by this high example1 for shortly after we read1 in the ,memoirs of ,madame ,palatine1 of the secretary of ,sir ,luke ,schaub being drugged at ,paris by an impostor1 and robbed of some money sent to defray the purchase of some ,french lace ruffles for the ,princess of ,wales4 #cee;,it was of native-made laces1 we may infer1 ,mrs4 ,delany writes in the same year3--,thanks for your apron4 ,brussels nor ,mechlin ever produced anything prettier4 ,it appears somewhat strange that patriotism1 as regards native manufactures1 should have received an impulse during the reign of that most uninteresting though gallant little monarch1 the second ,george of ,brunswick4#ajee ,but patriotism has its evils1 for1 writes an essayist1 some ladies now squander away all their money in fine laces1 because it sets a great many poor people to work4#ajef ,ten years previous to the death of ,king ,george ,,ii4 was founded1 with a view to correct the prevalent taste for foreign manufactures1#ajeg the ,society of ,anti-,gallicans1 who held their quarterly meetings1 and distributed prizes for bone1 point lace1 and other articles of ,english manufacture4#ajeh ,this society1 which continued in great activity for many years1 proved most beneficial to the lace-making trade4 ,it excited also a spirit of emulation among gentlewomen of the middle class1 who were glad in the course of the year to add to a small income by making the finer kinds of needle-point1 which1 on account of their elaborate workmanship1 could be produced only in foreign convents or by #cefpersons whose maintenance did not entirely depend upon the work of their hands4 ,towards the year #agef certain changes in the fashion of the day now again mark the period1 for-- ,dress still varying1 most to form confined1 ,shifts like the sands1 the sport of every wind4 ,long lappets1 the horse-shoe cap1 the ,brussels head1 and the prudish mob pinned under the chin1 have all had their day1 says the ,connoisseur in #aged4 ,now we have first mention of lace cardinals2 trollopies or slammerkins#ajei come in at the same period1 with treble ruffles to the cuffs2 writers talk1 too1 of a gentle dame in blonde lace1 blonde being as yet a newly-introduced manufacture4 ,though history may only be all false1#ajfj as ,sir ,robert ,walpole said to that cynic in lace ruffles1 his son ,horace1 yet the newspapers are to be depended upon for the fashion of the day1 or1 as ,lady ,mary would say1 for what new whim adorns the ruffle4#ajfa ,the lace apron1#ajfb worn since the days of ,queen ,elizabeth1 continued to hold its own till the end of the eighteenth century1 though some considered it an appendage scarcely consistent with the dignity of polite society4 ,the anecdote of ,beau ,nash1 who held these articles in the strongest aversion1 has been often related4 ,he absolutely excluded1 says his biographer1 all who ventured to appear at the ,assembly ,room at ,bath so attired4 ,i have known him at a ball night strip the ,duchess of ,queensberry1 and throw her apron on one of the hinder benches among the ladies' women1 observing that none but ,abigails appeared in white aprons2 though that apron was of the costliest point1 and cost two hundred guineas4#ajfc #ceg;,george ,,ii4 did his best to promote the fabrics of his country1 but at this period smuggling increased with fearful rapidity4 ,it was a war to the knife between the revenue officer and society at large3 all classes combined1 town ladies of high degree with waiting-maids and the common sailor1 to avoid the obnoxious duties and cheat the ,government4 ,to this subject we devote the following chapter4 #ceh;,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,,smuggling4 ,may that mistaken taste be starv'd to reason1 ,that does not think ,french fashions--,english treason4 ,souse their cook's talent1 and cut short their tailors2 ,wear your own lace2 eat beef like ,vernon's sailors4 --,aaron ,hill4 #aged4 ,we have had occasional mention of this kindly-looked-upon offence1 in the carrying out of which many a reckless seaman paid the penalty of his life in the latter part of the eighteenth century4 ,from #agjj downwards1 though the edicts prohibiting the entry of ,flanders lace were repealed1 the points of ,france1 ,spain and ,venice1 with other fabrics of note1 were still excluded from our ports4 ,england1 writes ,anderson1#ajfd brings home in a smuggling way from ,france much fine lace and other prohibited fopperies4 ,prohibition went for nothing2 foreign lace ladies would have1 and if they could not smuggle it themselves1 the smuggler brought it to them4 ,it was not till #agea that the ,customs appear to have used undue severity as regards the entries1 prying into people's houses1 and exercising a surveillance of so strict a nature as to render the chance to evade their watchfulness a very madness on the part of all degrees4 ,in short1 there was not a female within ten miles of a seaport1 writes an essayist1 that was in possession of a ,mechlin lace cap or pinner but they examined her title to it4 ,lord ,chesterfield1 whose opinion that dress is a very silly thing1 but it is much more silly not to be dressed according to your station1 was more than acted up to1 referring to the strictness of the ,customs1 writes to his son #cei;in #agea1 when coming over on a short visit3 ,bring only two or three of your laced shirts1 and the rest plain ones4 ,the revenue officers made frequent visits to the tailors' shops1 and confiscated whatever articles they found of foreign manufacture4 ,on ,january #aith1 #ageb1 a considerable quantity of foreign lace1 gold and silver1 seized at a tailor's1 who paid the penalty of #ajj1 was publicly burnt4#ajfe ,george ,,iii41 who really from his coming to the throne endeavoured to protect ,english manufactures1 ordered1 in #agfd1 all the stuffs and laces worn at the marriage of his sister1 the ,princess ,augusta1 to the ,duke of ,brunswick1 to be of ,english manufacture4 ,to this decree the nobility paid little attention4 ,three days previous to the marriage a descent was made by the ,customs on the court milliner of the day1 and nearly the whole of the clothes1 silver1 gold stuffs and lace1 carried off1 to the dismay of the modiste1 as well as of the ladies deprived of their finery4 ,the disgusted ,french milliner retired with a fortune of #aa1jjj to ,versailles1 where she purchased a villa1 which1 in base ingratitude to the ,english court1 she called ,la ,folie des ,dames ,anglaises4 ,in ,may of the same year three wedding garments1 together with a large seizure of ,french lace1 weighing nearly #ajj lbs41 were burnt at ,mr4 ,coxe's refinery1 conformably to the ,act of ,parliament4 ,the following birthday1 warned by the foregoing mischances1 the nobility appeared in clothes and laces entirely of ,british manufacture4 ,every paper tells how lace and ruffles of great value1 sold on the previous day1 had been seized in a hackney coach1 between ,st4 ,paul's and ,covent ,garden2 how a lady of rank was stopped in her chair and relieved of ,french lace to a large amount2 or how a poor woman1 carelessly picking a quartern loaf as she walked along1 was arrested1 and the loaf found to contain #bjj worth of lace4 ,even ladies when walking had their black lace mittens cut off their hands1 the officers supposing them to be of ,french manufacture2 and lastly1 a ,turk's turban1 of most ,mameluke dimensions1 was found1 containing a stuffing of #ij worth of lace4 ,books1 #cfj;bottles1 babies1 false-bottomed boxes1 umbrellas1 daily poured out their treasures to the lynx-eyed officers4 ,in ,may1 #agfe1 the lace-makers joined the procession of the silk-workers of ,spitalfields to ,westminster1 bearing flags and banners1 to which were attached long floating pieces of ,french lace1 demanding of the ,lords redress1 and the total exclusion of foreign goods4 ,on receiving an answer that it was too late1 they must wait till next ,session1 the assemblage declared that they would not be put off by promises2 they broke the ,duke of ,bedford's palings on their way home1 and threatened to burn the premises of ,mr4 ,carr1 an obnoxious draper4 ,at the next leve they once more assembled before ,st4 ,james's1 but1 finding the dresses of the nobility to be all of right ,english stuff1 retired satisfied1 without further clamour4 ,the papers of the year #agfd teem with accounts of seizures made by the ,customs4 ,among the confiscated effects of a person of the highest quality are enumerated3 #af black -la-mode cloaks1 trimmed with lace2 #dd ,french lace caps2 #aa black laced handkerchiefs2 #f lace hats2 #f ditto aprons2 #aj pairs of ruffles2 #f pairs of ladies' blonde ditto1 and #be gentlemen's4 ,eleven yards of edging and #f pairs of ruffles are extracted from the pocket of the footman4 ,everybody smuggled4 ,a gentleman attached to the ,spanish ,embassy is unloaded of #cf dozen shirts1 with fine ,dresden ruffles and jabots1 and endless lace1 in pieces1 for ladies' wear4 ,these articles had escaped the vigilance of the officers at ,dover1 but were seized on his arrival by the coach at ,southwark4 ,though ,prime ,ministers in those days accepted bribes1 the ,custom-house officers seem to have done their duty4#ajff ,when the body of his ,grace the ,duke of ,devonshire was brought over from ,france1 where he died1 the officers1 to the anger of his servants1 not content with opening and searching the coffin1 poked the corpse with a stick to ascertain if it was a real body2 but the trick of smuggling in coffins was too #cfaold to be attempted4 ,forty years before1 when a deceased clergyman was conveyed from the ,low ,countries for interment1 the body of the corpse was found to have disappeared1 and to have been replaced by ,flanders lace of immense value--the head and hands and feet alone remaining4 ,this discovery did not1 however1 prevent the ,high ,sheriff of ,westminster from running--and that successfully--#f1jjj worth of ,french lace in the coffin of ,bishop ,atterbury1#ajfg when his body was brought over from ,calais for interment4 ,towards the close of the ,french war1 in the nineteenth century1 smuggling of lace again became more rife than ever4 ,it was in vain the authorities stopped the travelling carriages on their road from seaport towns to ,london1 rifled the baggage of the unfortunate passengers by the mail at ,rochester and ,canterbury2 they were generally outwitted1 though spies in the pay of the ,customs were ever on the watch4 ,mrs4 ,palliser had in her possession a ,brussels veil of great beauty1 which narrowly escaped seizure4 ,it belonged to a lady who was in the habit of accompanying her husband1 for many years member for one of the ,cinque ,ports4 ,the day after the election she was about to leave for ,london1 somewhat nervous as to the fate of a ,brussels veil she had purchased of a smuggler for a hundred guineas2 when1 at a dinner-party1 it was announced that ,lady ,ellenborough1 wife of the ,lord ,chief ,justice1 had been stopped near ,dover1 and a large quantity of valuable lace seized concealed in the lining of her carriage4 ,dismayed at the news1 the lady imparted her trouble to a gentleman at her side1 who immediately offered to take charge of the lace and convey it to ,london1 remarking that no one would suspect him1 as he was a bachelor4 ,turning round suddenly1 she observed one of the hired waiters to smile1 and at once settling him to be a spy1 she loudly accepted the offer2 but that night1 before going to bed1 secretly caused the veil to be sewn up in the waistcoat of the newly-elected ,m4,p41 in such a manner that it filled the hollow of his back4 ,next morning they started1 and reached ,london in safety1 while her friend1 who remained two days later1 was stopped1 and underwent #cfb;a rigorous but unsuccessful examination from the ,customhouse officers4 ,the free trade principles of the nineteenth century put a more effectual stop to smuggling than all the activity of revenue officers1 spies1 and informers1 or even laws framed for the punishment of the offenders4 #cfc;,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,,george ,,iii4 ,in clothes1 cheap handsomeness doth bear the bell1 ,wisdome's a trimmer thing than shop e'er gave4 ,say not then1 ,this with that lace will do well2 ,but1 ,this with my discretion will be brave4 ,much curiousnesse is a perpetual wooing1 ,nothing with labour1 fully long a doing4 --,herbert1 ,the ,church ,porch4 ,in #agfj commences the reign of ,george ,,iii4 ,the ,king was patriotic1 and did his best to encourage the fabrics of his country4 ,from the year #agfa various ,acts were passed for the benefit of the lace-makers3 the last1 that of #ahjf1 increases the duties on foreign laces4#ajfh ,queen ,charlotte1 on her first landing in ,england1 wore1 in compliment to the subjects of her royal consort1 a fly cap richly trimmed1 with lappets of ,british lace1 and a dress of similar manufacture4 ,the ,englishman1 however1 regardless of the ,anti-,gallicans1 preferred his ,macklin and his ,brussels to all the finest productions of ,devonshire or ,newport-,pagnel4 ,ruffles1#ajfi according to the fashion of ,tavistock ,street and ,st4 ,james's1 in ,may1 #aggc1 still continued long1 dipped in the sauce alike by clown and cavalier4#ajgj ,the beau1 ,a critic styled in point of dress1 ,harangues on fashion1 point1 and lace4 #cfd;,a man was known by his points2 he collected lace1 as1 in these more athletic days1 a gentleman prides himself on his pointers or his horses4 ,we read in the journals of the time how1 on the day after ,lord ,george ,gordon's riots1 a report ran through ,london that the ,earl of ,effingham1 having joined the rioters1 had been mortally wounded1 and his body thrown into the ,thames4 ,he had been recognised1 folks declared1 by his point lace ruffles4#ajga ,mr4 ,damer1 less known than his wife1 the talented sculptor and friend of ,horace ,walpole1 appeared three times a day in a new suit1 and at his death#ajgb left a wardrobe which sold for #ae1jjj4ajgc ,well might it have been said of him-- ,we sacrifice to dress1 till household joys ,and comforts cease4 ,dress drains our cellars dry1 ,and keeps our larder bare2 puts out our fires1 ,and introduces hunger1 frost1 and woe1 ,where peace and hospitality might reign4#ajgd ,there was no difference between the nobleman and city 'prentice1 except that the latter was sometimes the greater beau1 writes the ,female ,spectator4#ajge ,his hands must be covered with fine ,brussels lace4#ajgf ,painters of the eighteenth century loved to adorn their portraits with the finest fabrics of ,venice and ,flanders2 modern artists consider such decorations as far too much trouble4 ,over the chimney-piece1 writes one of the essayists1 describing a citizen's country box1 was my friend's portrait1 which was drawn bolt upright in a full-bottomed periwig1 a laced cravat1 with the fringed ends appearing through the button-hole 7,steinkirk fashion74 ,indeed1 one would almost wonder how and where people managed to afford so rich a selection of laces in their days1 did it not call to mind the demand of the ,vicaress of ,wakefield 'to have as many pearls and diamonds put into her picture as could be given for the money4' #cfe,ruffles were equally worn by the ladies3--#ajgg ,frizzle your elbows with ruffles sixteen2 ,furl off your lawn apron with flounces in rows4#ajgh ,indeed1 if we may judge by the intellectual conversation overheard and accurately noted down by ,miss ,burney1#ajgi at ,miss ,monckton's 7,lady ,cork7 party1 court ruffles were inconvenient to wear3-- ',you can't think how ,i am encumbered with these nasty ruffles1' said ,mrs4 ,hampden4 ',and ,i dined in them1' says the other4 ',only think6' ',oh6' answered ,mrs4 ,hampden1 'it really puts me out of spirits4' ,both ladies were dressed for a party at ,cumberland ,house1 and ill at ease in the costume prescribed by etiquette4 ,about #aggj the sleeves of the ladies' dresses were tight on the upper arm1 where they suddenly became very large1 and1 drooping at the elbow1 they terminated in rich fringes of lace ruffles4 ,a few years later the sleeves expanded from the shoulders till they became a succession of constantly enlarging ruffles and lappets1 and again1 before #aghj1 they became tight throughout1 with small cuffs and no lace at the elbows1 when they were worn with long gloves4 ,our history of ,english lace is now drawing to a close2 but1 before quitting the subject1 we must1 however1 make some allusion to the custom prevalent here1 as in all countries1 of using lace as a decoration to grave-clothes4 ,in the chapter devoted to ,greece1 we have mentioned how much lace is still taken from the tombs of the ,ionian ,islands1 washed1 mended1 or1 more often1 as a proof of its authenticity1 sold in a most disgusting state to the purchaser4 ,the custom was prevalent at ,malta1 as the lines of ,beaumont and ,fletcher testify3-- ,in her best habit1 as the custom is1 ,you know1 in ,malta1 with all ceremonies1 ,she's buried in the family monument1 ,i' the temple of ,st4 ,john4#ajhj #cff;,at ,palermo you may see the mummies thus adorned in the celebrated catacombs of the ,capuchin convent4#ajha ,in ,denmark1#ajhb ,sweden1 and the north of ,europe#ajhc the custom was general4 ,the mass of lace in the tomb of the once fair ,aurora ,knigsmarck1 at ,quedlenburg1 would in itself be a fortune4 ,she sleeps clad in the richest point d',angleterre1 ,malines1 and guipure4 ,setting aside the jewels which still glitter around her parchment form1 no daughter of ,pharaoh was ever so richly swathed4#ajhd ,in ,spain it is related as the privilege of a grandee3 all people of a lower rank are interred in the habit of some religious order4#ajhe ,taking the grave-clothes of ,st4 ,cuthbert as an example1 we believe the same custom to have prevailed in ,england from the earliest times4#ajhf #cfg,mrs4 ,oldfield1 the celebrated actress1 who died in #agcj1 caused herself to be thus interred4 ,the lines of ,pope have long since immortalised the story3-- ,odious6 in woollen6 'twould a saint provoke6 7,were the last words that poor ,narcissa spoke47 ,no1 let a charming chintz and ,brussels lace ,wrap my cold limbs1 and shade my lifeless face2 ,one would not1 sure1 be frightful when one's dead-- ,and--,betty--give this cheek a little red4 ,she was laid in her coffin1 says her maid1 in a very fine ,brussels lace head1 a ,holland shift with a tucker of double ruffles1 and a pair of new kid gloves4 ,previous to her interment in ,westminster ,abbey she lay in state in the ,jerusalem ,chamber4#ajhg ,for ,mrs4 ,oldfield in her lifetime was a great judge of lace1 and treasured a statuette of the ,earl of ,stratford1 finely carved in ivory by ,grinling ,gibbons1 more1 it is supposed1 for the beauty of its lace ,vandyke collar#ajhh than any other sentiment4 ,in #agfc another instance is recorded in the ,london ,magazine of a young lady buried in her wedding clothes1 point lace tucker1 handkerchief1 ruffles and apron2 also a fine point lappet head4 ,from this period we happily hear no more of such extravagances4 ,passing from interments and shrouds to more lively matters1 we must quote the opinion of that ,colossus of the eighteenth century1 ,dr4 ,johnson1 who was too apt to talk on matters of taste and art1 of which he was no competent judge4 ,a ,brussels trimming1 he declaims to ,mrs4 ,piozzi1 is like bread sauce2 it takes away the glow of colour from the gown1 and gives you nothing instead of it3 but sauce was invented to heighten the flavour of our food1 and trimming is an ornament to the manteau or it is nothing4#ajhi ,a man whose culinary ideas did not soar higher than bread sauce could scarcely pronounce on the relative effect and beauty of point lace4 ,if ,england had leant towards the products of ,france1 in #cfhaghh1 an ,anglomania ran riot at ,paris4 ,ladies wore a cap of mixed lace1 ,english and ,french1 which they styled the ,union of ,france and ,england4 ,on the appearance of the ,french ,revolution1 the classic style of dress--its ,india muslins and transparent gauzes--caused the ancient points to fall into neglect4 ,from this time dates the decline of the lace fabric throughout ,europe4 ,point still appeared at court and on state occasions1 such as on the marriage of the ,princess ,caroline of ,wales1 #agie1 but as an article of daily use it gradually disappeared from the wardrobes of all classes4 ,a scrupulous feeling also arose in ladies' minds as to the propriety of wearing articles of so costly a nature1 forgetting how many thousands of women gained a livelihood by its manufacture4 ,mrs4 ,hannah ,more1 among the first1 in her ,coelebs in ,search of a ,wife1 alludes to the frivolity of the taste1 when the little child exclaiming at the beautiful lace with which the frock of another was trimmed1 and which she was sure her mamma had given her for being good1 remarks1 ,a profitable and1 doubtless1 lasting and inseparable association was thus formed in the child's mind between lace and goodness4 ,whether in consequence of the ,french ,revolution1 or from the caprice of fashion1 real lace--worse off than the passements and points of #afcd1 when in revolt--now underwent the most degrading vicissitudes4 ,indeed1 so thoroughly was the taste for lace at this epoch gone by1 that in many families collections of great value were1 at the death of their respective owners1 handed over as rubbish to the waiting maid4#ajij ,many ladies recollect in their youth to have tricked out their dolls in the finest ,alenon point1 which would now sell at a price far beyond their purses4 ,among the few who1 in ,england1 unseduced by frippery blonde1 never neglected to preserve their collections entire1 was the ,duchess of #cfi;,gloucester1 whose lace was esteemed among the most magnificent in ,europe4 ,when the taste of the age again turned towards the rich fabrics of the preceding centuries1 much lace1 both black and white1 was found in the country farm-houses1 preserved as remembrances of deceased patrons by old family dependants4 ,sometimes the hoard had been forgotten1 and was again routed out from old wardrobes and chests1 where it had lain unheeded for years4 ,much was recovered from theatrical wardrobes and the masquerade shops1 and the ,church1 no longer in its temporal glory1 both in ,italy1 ,spain and ,germany1 gladly parted with what1 to them1 was of small value compared with the high price given for it by amateurs4 ,in ,italy perhaps the finest fabrics of ,milan1 ,genoa1 and ,venice had fared best1 from the custom which prevailed of sewing up family lace in rolls of linen to ensure its preservation4 ,after years of neglect lace became a mania4 ,in ,england the literary ladies were the first to take it up4 ,sydney ,lady ,morgan and ,lady ,stepney quarrelled weekly on the respective value and richness of their points4 ,the former at one time commenced a history of the lace fabric1 though what was the ultimate fate of the ,,ms4 the author is unable to state4 ,the ,countess of ,blessington1 at her death1 left several chests filled with the finest antique lace of all descriptions4 ,the dames du grand monde1 both in ,england and ,france1 now began to wear lace4 ,but1 strange as it may seem1 never at any period did they appear to so little advantage as during the counter-revolution of the lace period4 ,lace was the fashion1 and wear it somehow they would1 though that somehow often gave them an appearance1 as the ,french say1 du dernier ridicule1 simply from an ignorance displayed in the manner of arranging it4 ,that lace was old seemed sufficient to satisfy all parties4 ,they covered their dresses with odds and ends of all fabrics1 without attention either to date or texture4 ,one ,english lady appeared at a ball given by the ,french ,embassy at ,rome1 boasting that she wore on the tablier of her dress every description of lace1 from point coup of the fifteenth to ,alenon of the eighteenth century4 ,the ,count of ,syracuse was accustomed to say3 ,the ,english ladies buy a scrap #cgjof lace as a souvenir of every town they pass through1 till they reach ,naples1 then sew it on their dresses1 and make one grande toilette of the whole to honour our first ball at the ,academia ,nobile4 ,the taste for lace has again become universal1 and the quality now produced renders it within the reach of all classes of society2 and though by some the taste may be condemned1 it gives employment to thousands and ten thousands of women1 who find it more profitable and better adapted to their strength than the field labour which forms the occupation of the women in agricultural districts4 ,to these last1 in a general point of view1 the lace-maker of our southern counties1 who works at home in her own cottage1 is superior1 both in education1 refinement1 and morality3-- ,here the needle plies its busy task2 ,the pattern grows1 the well-depicted flower1 ,wrought patiently into the snowy lawn1 ,unfolds its bosom2 buds1 and leaves1 and sprigs1 ,and curling tendrils1 gracefully dispos'd1 ,follow the nimble fingers of the fair-- ,a wreath that cannot fade1 of flowers that blow ,with most success when all besides decay4#ajia #cga;,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,,the ,,lace ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,england4 ,yon cottager1 who weaves at her own door1 ,pillow and bobbins all her little store2 ,content though mean1 and cheerful if not gay1 ,shuffling her threads about the livelong day3 ,just earns a scanty pittance1 and at night ,lies down secure1 her heart and pocket light4--,cowper4 ,the bone lace manufactures of ,england in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries appear to have extended over a much wider area than they occupy in the present day4 ,from ,cambridge to the adjacent counties of ,northampton and ,hertfordshire1 by ,buckinghamshire1 ,bedfordshire1 and ,oxfordshire1 the trade spread over the southern counties#ajib of ,wiltshire1 ,somersetshire1#ajic ,hampshire1 and ,dorset1 to the more secluded valleys of ,devon--the county which still sustains the ancient reputation of ,english point--terminating at ,launceston1 on the ,cornish coast4 ,various offsets from these fabrics were established in ,wales4#ajid ,ripon1#ajie an isolated manufactory1 represented the #cgblace industry of ,york2 while the dependent islands of ,man1#ajif ,wight#ajig and ,jersey1#ajih may be supposed to have derived their learning from the smugglers who frequented their coast1 rather than from the teaching of the ,protestant refugees#ajii who sought an asylum on the shores of ,britain4 ,many of these fabrics now belong to the past1 consigned to oblivion even in the very counties where they once flourished4 ,in describing1 therefore1 the lace manufactures of the ,united ,kingdom1 we shall confine ourselves to those which still remain1 alluding only slightly to such as were #cgconce of note1 and of which the existence is confirmed by the testimony of contemporary writers4 ,the women of the mystery of thread-working would appear to have made lace in ,london1#aajj and of their complaints and grievances our public records bear goodly evidence4 ,of the products of their needle we know little or nothing4 ,various ,flemings and ,burgundians established themselves in the ,city2 and though the emigrants1 for the most part1 betook themselves to the adjoining counties1 the craft1 till the end of the eighteenth century1 may be said to have held fair commerce in the capital4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acb4 ,,ripon4 ,the ,london fabric can scarcely be looked upon as a staple trade in itself1 mixed up as it was with lace-cleaning and lace-washing--an occupation first established by the ejected nuns4#aaja ,much point1 too1 was made by poor gentlewomen1 as the records of the ,anti-,gallican ,society testify4 ,a strange infatuation1 says a writer of the eighteenth century1 prevailed in the capital for many years among the class called demi-fashionables of sending their daughters to convents in ,france for education1 if that could be so termed which amounted to a learning to work in lace4 ,the ,revolution1 however1 put #cgd;an end to this practice4 ,it is owing to this ,french education that the fine needle points were so extensively made in ,england2 though this occupation1 however1 did not seem to belong to any one county in particular2 for the reader who runs his eye over the proceedings of the ,anti-,gallican ,society will find prizes to have been awarded to gentlewomen from all parts--from the town of ,leominster in ,herefordshire to ,broughton in ,leicestershire1 or ,stourton in ,gloucester4#aajb ,needle point1 in contradistinction to bone lace1 was an occupation confined to no special locality4 ,in #agfd the attention of the nobility seems to have been first directed towards the employment of the indigent poor1 and1 indeed1 the better classes in the metropolis1 in the making of bone lace and point2#aajc and in #agge1 sanctioned by the patronage of ,queen ,charlotte1 the ,princesses1 the ,princess ,amelia1 and various members of the aristocracy1 an institution was formed in ,marylebone ,lane1 and also in ,james ,street1 ,westminster1 for employing the female infants of the poor in the blond and black silk lace-making and thread laces4 ,more than #cjj girls attended the school4 ,they gave1 says the ,annual ,register1 such a proof of their capacity that many who had not been there more than six months carried home to their parents from #es4 to #gs4 a month1 with expectation of getting more as they improve4 ,from this time we hear no more of the making of lace1 either point or bone1 in the metropolis4 ,,plate ,,lxxxv4 ,illustration3 ,,english1 ,,buckinghamshire4 ,,bobbin ,,lace4--,first half of nineteenth century4 ,widths3 #c1 #c1 #c1 #d in4 ,the property of ,mrs4 ,ellis1 ,the ,vicarage1 ,much ,wenlock4 ,to face page #cgd4 #cge;,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,,bedfordshire1 ,,buckinghamshire1 ,,and ,,northamptonshire4#aajd ---- ,,bedfordshire4 ,he wears a stuff whose thread is coarse and round ,but trimmed with curious lace4--,herbert4 ,it would be a difficult matter now to determine when and by whom lace-making was first introduced into the counties of ,bedfordshire and ,buckingham4 ,authors1 for the most part1 have been glad to assign its introduction to the ,flemings1#aaje a nation to whose successive emigrations ,england owes much of her manufacturing greatness4 ,originally the laces were of old1 wavy1 graceful ,flemish designs4 ,on the other hand1 certain traditions handed down in the county villages of a good ,queen who protected their craft1 the annual festival of the workers--in the palmy days of the trade a matter of great moment--combined with the residence of that unhappy ,queen1 for the space of two years#aajf at her jointure manor of ,ampthill1#aajg lead us rather to infer #cgfthat the art of lace-making1 as it then existed1 was first imparted to the peasantry of ,bedfordshire1 as a means of subsistence1 through the charity of ,queen ,katherine of ,aragon4 ,in the chapter devoted to needlework we have already alluded to the proficiency of this ,queen in all arts connected with the needle1 to the trials of needlework established by her mother1 ,queen ,isabella1 at which she1 as a girl1 had assisted4 ,it is related1 also1 that during her#aajh sojourn at ,ampthill1 she passed her time1 when not at her devotions1 with her gentlewomen1 working with her own hands something wrought in needlework1 costly and artificially1 which she intended for the honour of ,god to bestow on some of the churches4#aaji ,the country people1 continues her contemporary1 began to love her exceedingly4 ,they visited her out of pure respect1 and she received the tokens of regard they daily showed her most sweetly and graciously4 ,the love borne by the peasantry to the ,queen1 the sympathy shown to her in her days of trouble and disgrace1 most likely met with its reward2 and we believe ,katherine to have taught them an art which1 aided no doubt by the later introduction of the pillow and the improvements of the refugees1 has now1 for the space of nigh three centuries1 been the staple employment of the female population of ,bedfordshire and the adjoining counties4 ,until the latter half of the nineteenth century--though1 like all such festivals in the present age1 gradually dying out--the lace-makers still held ,cattern's day1#aaaj ,november #beth1 as the holiday of their craft1 kept1 they say1 in memory of good ,queen ,katherine1 who1 when the trade was dull1 burnt all her lace and ordered new to be made4 ,the ladies of the court #cgg;followed her example1 and the fabric once more revived4 ,ainsi s'crit l'histoire2 and this garbled version may rest on as much foundation as most of the folk-lore current throughout the provinces4 ,speaking of ,bedfordshire1 ,defoe writes3 ,thro' the whole south part of this country1 as far as the borders of ,buckinghamshire and ,hertfordshire1 the people are taken up with the manufacture of bone lace1 in which they are wonderfully exercised and improved within these few years past#aaaa--probably since the arrival of the ,french settlers after the ,revocation of the ,edict of ,nantes4 ,at the same period the author of the ,magna ,britannia#aaab states that at ,woburn lace of a high price is made in considerable quantities4 ,savary and ,peuchet both declare the town of ,bedford alone to have contained #ejj lace-workers4 ,in #ahfc1 as ,mrs4 ,palliser wrote3 ,the lace schools of ,bedfordshire are far more considerable than those in ,devonshire4 ,four or five may frequently be found in the same village1 numbering from twenty to thirty children each1 and they are considered sufficiently important to be visited by ,government inspectors4 ,their work is mostly purchased by large dealers1 who make their arrangements with the instructress3 the children are not bound for a term1 as in the southern counties4 ,boys formerly attended the lace schools1 but now they go at an early age to the fields4 ,these lace-schools are now things of the past4 ,in some cases1 however1 in the lace counties1 the ,county ,council ,technical ,education ,committee have supplemented private efforts with grants for classes to teach the lace industry4 ,the wages of a lace-worker average a shilling a day2 under press of business1 caused by the demand for some fashionable article1 they sometimes rise to one shilling and sixpence4 #cgh;,,buckinghamshire4 ,though the first establishment of the fabric may have been in the sister county1 the workers of ,buckingham appear early to have gained the lion's share of public estimation for the produce of their pillows1 and the manufacture flourished1 till1 suffering from the monopolies of ,james ,i41 we read how--,in the year #afbc1 ,april #hth1 a petition was addressed from ,great ,marlow to the ,high ,sheriff of ,bucks1 representing the distress of the people from the bone-lace making being much decayed4#aaac ,three years later1 #afbf1 ,sir ,henry ,borlase founds and endows the free school of ,great ,marlow for twenty-four boys to read1 write1 and cast accounts2 and for twenty-four girls to knit1 spin1 and make bone lace2 and here at ,great ,marlow the trade flourished1 all ,english1 and even ,french authors#aaad citing its manufactures de dentelles au fuseau as the staple produce of the town1 and its surrounding villages1 which sold lace1 however1 they pronounce as infrieure celle de ,flandres4 ,during the seventeenth century the trade continued to advance1 and ,fuller testifies to its once more prosperous condition in ,bucks1 towards the year #afdj4 ,no handicrafts of note1 he writes1 7save what are common to other countries7 are used therein1 except any will instance in bone lace1 much thereof being made about ,owldney1 in this county1 though more1 ,i believe1 in ,devonshire1 where we shall meet more properly therewith4#aaae ,olney1 as it is now written1 a small market town1 for many years the residence of ,cowper1 known by its twenty-four-arched bridge1 now no more1 of wearisome but needful length spanning the ,ouse--,olney1 together with the fellow towns of ,newport-,pagnel and ,aylesbury1 are much quoted by the authorities of the last century1 though1 as is too often the case in books of travels and statistics1 one writer copies from another the information derived from a preceding author4 ,defoe1 however1 who visited each county in detail1 quotes ,ouldney as possessing a considerable manufacture of bone lace2 #cgiwhile a letter from the poet ,cowper to the ,rev4 ,john ,newton1 in #aghj1 enclosing a petition to ,lord ,dartmouth in favour of the lace-makers1 declares that hundreds in this little town are upon the point of starving1 and that the most unremitting industry is barely sufficient to keep them from it4 ,a distress caused1 we may infer1 by some caprice of fashion4 ,the lace manufacture is still carried on1 says ,lysons1#aaaf to a great extent in and about ,olney1 where veils and other lace of the finer sorts are made1 and great fortunes are said to be acquired by the factors4 ,lace-making is in no part of the country so general as at ,hanslape and in its immediate vicinity2 but it prevails from fifteen to twenty miles round in every direction4 ,at ,hanslape not fewer than #hjj out of a population of #abge were employed in it in the year #ahja4 ,children are put to the lace-schools at1 or soon after1 five years of age4 ,at eleven or twelve years of age they are all able to maintain themselves without any assistance2 both girls and boys are taught to make it1 and some men when grown up follow no other employment2 others1 when out of work1 find it a good resource1 and can earn as much as the generality of day labourers4 ,the lace made in ,hanslape is from sixpence to two guineas a yard in value4 ,it is calculated that from #hjjj to #ijjj net profit is annually brought into the parish by the lace manufacture4 ,the bone lace of ,stoney ,stratford#aaag and ,aylesbury are both quoted by ,defoe1 and the produce of the latter city is mentioned with praise4 ,he writes3 ,many of the poor here are employed in making lace for edgings1 not much inferior to those from ,flanders2 but it is some pleasure to us to observe that the ,english are not the only nation in the world which admires foreign manufactures above its own1 since the ,french1 who gave fashions to most nations1 buy and sell the finest laces at ,paris under the name of 'dentelles d',angleterre' or ',english laces4'#aaah ,in the southern part of ,buckinghamshire the hundreds of ,burnham and ,desborough were especially noted for the #chj;art1 the lace-workers producing handsome lace of the finest quality1 and about the year #afhj lace-making was one of the principal employments in ,high ,wycombe4#aaai ,but ,newport-,pagnel1 whether from its more central position1 or being of greater commercial importance1 is the town which receives most praise from all contemporary authors4 ,this town1 says the ,magna ,britannia in #agbj1 is a sort of staple for bone lace1 of which more is thought to be made here than any town in ,england2 that commodity is brought to as great perfection almost as in ,flanders4 ,newport-,pagnel1 writes ,defoe1 carries on a great trade in bone lace1 and the same manufacture employs all the neighbouring villages2 while ,don ,manuel ,gonzales1#aabj in #agcj1 speaks of its lace as little inferior to that of ,flanders1 which assertion he may have probably copied from previous writers4 #cha;,illustration3 ,fig4 #acc4 ,,buckinghamshire ,,trolly4 ,at one of the earliest meetings of the ,anti-,gallican ,society1 #ageb1 ,admiral ,vernon in the chair1 the first prize to the maker of the best piece of ,english bone lace was awarded to ,mr4 ,william ,marriott1 of ,newport-,pagnel1 ,bucks4 ,the principal lace-dealers in ,london were invited to give their opinion1 and they allowed it to be the best ever made in ,england4 ,emboldened by this success1 we read how1 in #agfa1 ,earl ,temple1 ,lord ,lieutenant of ,bucks1 having been requested by ,richard ,lowndes1 ,esq41 one of the ,knights of the ,shire1 on behalf of the lace-makers1 to present to the ,king a pair of fine lace ruffles1 made by ,messrs4 ,milward and ,company1 at ,newport-,pagnel1 in the same county1 his ,majesty1 after looking at them and asking many questions respecting this branch of trade1 was most graciously pleased to express himself that the inclination of his own heart naturally led him to set a high value on every endeavour to further ,english manufactures1 and whatever had such recommendation would be preferred by him to works of possibly higher perfection made in any other country4#aaba ,from this period ,newport-,pagnel is cited as #chbone of the most noted towns in the kingdom for making bone lace4#aabb ,as in other places1 much complaint was made of the unhealthy state of the lace-working population1 and of the injury sustained by long sitting in the vitiated air of the cottages4#aabc ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acd4 ,,buckinghamshire ,,point4 ,in ,pennant's ,journey from ,chester to ,london 7in #aghb71 he notices in ,towcester that1 this town is supported by the great concourse of passengers1 and by a manufacture of lace1 and a small one of silk stockings4 ,the first was #chc;imported from ,flanders1 and carried on with much success in this place1 and still more in the neighbouring county 7,buckinghamshire74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ace4 ,,buckinghamshire ,,point4 ,at the end of the eighteenth century1 the ,revolution again drove many of the poorer ,french to seek refuge on our shores1 as they had done a century before2 and we find stated in the ,annual ,register of #agid3 ,a number of ingenious ,french emigrants have found employment in ,bucks1 ,bedfordshire1 and the adjacent counties1 in the manufacturing of lace1 and it is expected1 through the means of these artificers1 considerable improvements will be introduced into the method of making ,english lace4 ,figs4 #acd and #ace represent the point ground1 which won the laces of the midland counties their reputation4 7,see ,,northamptonshire for additional matter47 #chd,,northamptonshire4 ,the laces of ,northampton do not appear to have attracted the notice of the writers of the eighteenth century so much as those of the sister counties4 ,anderson mentions that ,kettering has a considerable trade in lace2 and ,lysons1 later1 observes that lace is made at ,cheney4 ,certainly1 the productions of this county a century back were of exquisite beauty1 as we can bear testimony from the specimens in a pattern-book inherited by ,mr4 ,cardwell1 the well-known lace merchant of ,northampton1 from his predecessor in the trade1 which we have had an opportunity of examining4 ,we have also received examples from various localities in ,bedfordshire and ,buckinghamshire1 and as there is much similarity in the products of the three counties1 we shall1 perhaps1 better describe them by treating of them all collectively4 ,the earliest ,english lace was naturally the old ,flemish1 the pattern wavy and graceful1 the ground well executed4 ,fig4 #acf1 which we select as an example1 is a specimen we received1 with many others1 of old ,newport-,pagnel lace1 given by ,mrs4 ,bell1 of that town1 where her family has been established from time immemorial4 ,mrs4 ,bell could carry these laces back to the year #aghj1 when they were bequeathed to her father by an aged relative who had long been in the lace trade4 ,the packets remain for the most part entire4 ,the custom of storing lace was common among the country-people4 ,next in antiquity is ,fig4 #acg1 a lace of ,flemish design1 with the fine ,brussels ground4 ,this is among the ,northamptonshire laces already alluded to4 ,many of the early patterns appear to have been run or worked in with the needle on the net ground 7,fig4 #ach74 ,,plate ,,lxxxvi4 ,illustration3 ,,english1 ,,northamptonshire4 ,,bobbin ,,lace4--,end of nineteenth century4 ,widths3 #a1 #e and #b in4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden from a private collection4 ,to face page #chd4 #che;,in #aggh1 according to ,m',culloch1#aabd was introduced the point ground1 as it is locally termed1 from which period dates the staple pillow lace trade of these counties4 ,this ground is beautifully clear1 the patterns well executed3 we doubt if ,fig4 #aci could be surpassed in beauty by lace of any foreign manufacture4 ,much of this point ground was made by men4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acf4 ,,old ,,flemish4--7,newport-,pagnel47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acg4 ,,old ,,brussels4--7,northampton47 ,the principal branch of the lace trade was the making of baby lace1 as those narrow laces were called1 most specially employed for the adorning of infants' caps 7,figs4 #adj1 #ada1 #adb74 ,the point ground was used1 the patterns taken from those of ,lille and ,mechlin--hence the laces of ,buckingham and ,bedfordshire have often been styled ,english ,lille4 ,though the fashion in the mother-country passed away1 the ,american ladies held to the trimmed infant's cap until the breaking out of the ,civil ,war2 and up to that date large quantities of baby lace were exported to ,america1 the finer sorts varying from five shillings to seven shillings and sixpence a yard1 still retaining their ancient name of points4 #chf;,illustration3 ,fig4 #ach4 ,,run ,,lace4--7,newport-,pagnel47 ,many other descriptions of grounds were made--wire 7,fig4 #adc71 double1 and trolly1 in every kind of quality and width4 ,in the making of the finer sorts of edging as many as #bjj threads would be employed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aci4 ,,english ,,point4--7,northampton47 ,on the breaking out of the war with ,france1 the closing of our ports to ,french goods gave an impetus to the trade1 and the manufacturers undertook to supply the ,english #chgmarket with lace similar to that of ,normandy and the sea-coast villages of ,france2 hence a sort of fausse ,valenciennes1 called the ,french ground4 ,but true ,valenciennes was also fabricated so fine 7,fig4 #add7 as to rival the products of ,french ,hainault4 ,it was made in considerable quantities1 until the expertness of the smuggler and the cessation of the war caused it to be laid aside4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adj4 ,,baby ,,lace4--7,northampton47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ada4 ,,baby ,,lace4--7,beds47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adb4 ,,baby ,,lace4--7,bucks47 ,one-third of the lace-workers of ,northampton were #chh;employed1 previous to the introduction of machine-made net1 in making quillings on the pillow4 ,during the ,regency1 a point lace1 with the cloth or toil on the edge1 for many years was in fashion1 and1 in compliment to the ,prince1 was named by the loyal manufacturers ,regency ,point4 ,it was a durable and handsome lace 7,fig4 #ade74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adc4 ,,wire ,,ground4--7,northampton47 ,towards the year #ahcj1 insertions found their way to the public taste 7,fig4 #adf74 ,till the middle of the nineteenth century1 in lace-making districts1 almost the only schools were the lace schools--and there were several in most villages--where lace-making was the principal thing taught and a little reading added4 ,i am indebted to ,mrs4 ,roberts1 formerly of ,spratton1 near ,northampton1 for the following description1 which she kindly allows me to reprint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #add4 ,,valenciennes4--7,northampton47 #chi;,illustration3 ,fig4 #ade4 ,,regency ,,point4--7,bedford47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adf4 ,,insertion4--7,bedford47 ,the following are the few particulars of the old lace school for which this village was at one time famous4 ,indeed1 it may be borne in mind that1 owing to the great interest taken in education by a former squire and a former vicar1 ,spratton fifty years ago was far ahead of its neighbours in the matter of education2 and the ,spratton school and ,mr4 ,pridmore1 the ,spratton schoolmaster1 with his somewhat strict discipline1 were well known1 not only to the children of ,spratton1 but to the boys and girls of most of the adjacent villages4 ,but the lace school was1 no doubt1 a commercial institution1 and ,i think it will be admitted that the hours were long and the work severe4 ,the girls left the #cij;day school at the age of eight years1 and joined the lace school1 and here the hours were from #f ,a4,m4 to #f ,p4,m4 in the summer1 and from #h ,a4,m4 to #h ,p4,m4 in the winter4 ,half an hour was allowed for breakfast and for tea1 and one hour for dinner1 so that there were ten hours for actual work4 ,the girls had to stick ten pins a minute1 or six hundred an hour2 and if at the end of the day they were five pins behind1 they had to work for another hour4 ,on ,saturdays1 however1 they had a half-holiday1 working only to the dinner-hour4 ,they counted to themselves every pin they stuck1 and at every fiftieth pin they called out the time1 and the girls used to race each other as to who should call out first4 ,they paid twopence a week 7or threepence in winter7 for lights1 and in return they received the money realised from the sale of the lace they made1 and they could earn about sixpence a day4 ,pay-day was a great event2 it came once a month4 ,in the evenings eighteen girls worked by one tallow candle1 value one penny2 the 'candle-stool' stood about as high as an ordinary table with four legs4 ,in the middle of this was what was known as the 'pole-board1' with six holes in a circle and one in the centre4 ,in the centre hole was a long stick with a socket for the candle at one end and peg-holes through the sides1 so that it could be raised or lowered at will4 ,in the other six holes were placed pieces of wood hollowed out like a cup1 and into each of these was placed a bottle made of very thin glass and filled with water4#aabe ,these bottles acted as strong condensers or lenses1 and the eighteen girls sat round the table1 three to each bottle1 their stools being upon different levels1 the highest nearest the bottle1 which threw the light down upon the work like a burning-glass4 ,in the day-time as many as thirty girls1 and sometimes boys1 would work in a room about twelve feet square1 with two windows1 and in the winter they could have no fire for lack of room4 ,the makers of the best laces would sit nearest the light1 and so on in order of merit4 ,a down in ,northamptonshire is the parchment #ciapattern1 generally about twelve inches long4 ,in ,buckinghamshire they have two eachs ten inches long1 and putting one in front of the other1 so work round the pillow1 which to many commends itself as a better plan than having one down and moving the lace back on reaching the end of the down4 ,the pillow is a hard round cushion1 stuffed with straw and well hammered to make it hard for the bobbins to rattle on4 ,it is then covered with the butcher-blue pillow-cloth all over2 a lace cloth of the same1 for the lace to lie on1 goes over the top2 then follows the lace-paper to pin it in as made1 covered with the lacing1 which is a strip of bright print4 ,the hinder of blue linen covers up all behind1 the worker keeping the parchment clean in front where the hands rest4 ,a bobbin bag and scissors are then tied on one side and a pin-cushion on the top2 a cloth heller is thrown over the whole when not used4 ,the pins are fine brass ones made on purpose2#aabf the bobbins are of various sizes and makes--very fine for fine lace1 heavier and twisted round with strips of brass for coarser laces and gimp for the threads1 which are the tracing ones1 dividing the different characters of patterns2 some are of bone with words tattoed round in columns4 ,the usual bobbin is plain turned wood1 with coloured beads at the end for the necessary weight4 ,the number varies from twenty to five hundred1 according to the width of the pattern4#aabg #cib,the ,exhibition of #ahea gave a sudden impulse to the traders1 and from that period the lace industry rapidly developed4 ,at this time was introduced the ,maltese guipures and the plaited laces1 a variety grafted on the old ,maltese 7,fig4 #adg74 ,five years later appears the first specimen of the raised plait1 now so thoroughly established in the market4 ,at the time ,queen ,victoria's trousseau was made1 in which only ,english lace was used1 the prices paid were so enormous that men made lace in the fields4 ,in those days the parchments on which the patterns were pricked were worth their weight in gold2 many were extremely old and their owners were very jealous of others copying their patterns4 ,but1 of late years1 we hear of so little store being set by these parchments that they were actually boiled down to make glue4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adg4 ,,plaited ,,lace4--7,bedford47 ,the decay which threatened almost total extinction of the industry belongs to the last twenty years4 ,the contributory causes were several1 chiefly the rapid development of machinery1 which enabled large quantities to be sold at lower rates than the hand-workers could starve on1 while the quality of the manufactured goods was good enough for the #ciclarge public that required lace to last but a short time4 ,foreign competition1 the higher wages required by all1 and the many new employments opening to women took away the young people from the villages4 ,in #ahgd more than thirty young lace-women left a village of four hundred inhabitants to seek work elsewhere4 ,the old workers gave up making good laces and supplied the popular demand with ,maltese1 which grew more and more inferior both in design and quality of thread1 and gradually the old workers died out and no new ones took their places4 ,the ,lace ,association has been started with the object of stimulating and improving the local manufacture of pillow lace1 of providing lace-workers with greater facilities for the sale of their work at more remunerative prices4 ,its aim is also to save the old designs of the point lace and discourage the coarse ,maltese1 to get new designs copied from old laces1 and insist on only the best thread being used1#aabh and good workmanship1 and finally1 to bring the lace before the public1 and send it direct from worker to the purchaser1 thus enabling the former to get the full value1 saving the large profits which the dealers1 buying for the shopkeepers1 intercept for their own advantage4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adh4 ,,raised ,,plait4--,bedford4 ,pillow lace was also made to some extent in ,derbyshire4 #cid,,suffolk4 ,suffolk has produced bobbin-made laces of little artistic value4 ,the patterns in most of the specimens in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum collection are derived from simple ,mechlin1 ,lille1 and ,valenciennes patterns4 ,the make of the lace resembles that of ,buckinghamshire laces1 and that of the ,norman laces of the present time4 ,the entire collection displays varied combinations of six ways of twisting and plaiting thread4#aabi ,,plate ,,lxxxvii4 ,illustration3 ,,english1 ,,suffolk4 ,,bobbin ,,lace4--,nineteenth century4 ,resembling inferior ,buckinghamshire1 also ,normandy and ,saxony laces4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #cid4 #cie;,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,,wiltshire ,,and ,,dorsetshire4 ,from ,wiltshire and ,dorset1 counties in the eighteenth century renowned for their lace1 the trade has now passed away2 a few workers may yet be found in the retired sea-side village of ,charmouth1 and these are diminishing fast4 ,of the ,wiltshire manufactures we know but little1 even from tradition1 save that the art did once prevail4 ,peuchet alludes to it4 ,when ,sir ,edward ,hungerford attacked ,wardour ,castle in ,wiltshire1 ,lady ,arundel1 describing the destruction of the leaden pipes by the soldiers1 says1 ,they cut up the pipe and sold it1 as these men's wives in ,north ,wiltshire do bone lace1 at sixpence a yard4 ,one ,mary ,hurdle1 of ,marlborough1 in the time of ,charles ,,ii41 tells us in her ,memoirs#aacj that1 being left an orphan1 she was apprenticed by the chief magistrate to a maker of bone lace for eight years1 and after that period of servitude she apprenticed herself for five years more4 ,again1 at the time of the ,great ,plague1 cautions are issued by the ,mayor of ,marlborough to all parents and masters how they send their children and servants to school or abroad in making bone lace or otherwise1 in any public house1 place1 or school used for that purpose4#aaca ,in the proceedings of the ,anti-,gallican ,society it is recorded that the second prize for needle point ruffles was1 in #agea1 awarded to ,mrs4 ,elizabeth ,waterman1 of the episcopal city of ,salisbury4 ,such are the scanty notices we have been able to glean of the once flourishing lace trade in ,wiltshire4 #cif;,dorset1 on the other hand1 holds a high place in the annals of lace-making1 three separate towns1 in their day--,blandford1 ,sherborne1 and ,lyme ,regis--disputing the palm of excellence for their productions4 ,of ,blandford the earliest mention we find is in ,owen's ,magna ,britannica of #agbj1 where he states3 ,the manufacture of this town was heretofore 'band-strings1' which were once risen to a good price1 but now times hath brought both bands themselves and their strings out of use1 and so the inhabitants have turned their hands to making straw works and bone lace1 which perhaps may come to nothing1 if the fickle humour of fashionmongers take to wearing ,flanders lace4 ,only four years later ,defoe writes of ,blandford3--,this city is chiefly famous for making the finest bone lace in ,england1 and where they showed us some so exquisitely fine as ,i think ,i never saw better in ,flanders1 ,france1 or ,italy1 and which1 they said1 they rated above #cj sterling a yard2 but it is most certain that they make exceeding rich lace in this county1 such as no part of ,england can equal4 ,in the edition of #agfb1 ,defoe adds1 ,this was the state and trade of the town when ,i was there in my first journey2 but on ,june #d1 #agca1 the whole town1 except twenty-six houses1 was consumed by fire1 together with the church4 ,postlethwayt1#aacb ,hutchins1#aacc ,lysons1 and ,knight 7,imperial ,cyclopdia7 all tell the same story4 ,peuchet cites the ,blandford laces as comparables celles qu'on fait en ,flandres 7except ,bruxelles71 en ,france1 et mme dans les ,etats de ,venise2 and ,anderson mentions ,blandford as a well-built town1 surpassing all ,england in fine lace4 ,more reliance is to be placed on the two last-named authorities than the former1 who have evidently copied ,defoe without troubling themselves to inquire more deeply into the matter4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adi4 ,,english ,,needle-,,made ,,lace1 ,,representing ,,the ,,defeat ,,of ,,the ,,spanish ,,armada4 ,to face page #cif4 #cig;,it is generally supposed that the trade gradually declined after the great fire of #agca1 when it was replaced by the manufacture of buttons1 and no record of its former existence can be found among the present inhabitants of the place4#aacd ,fig4 #adi represents a curious piece of lace1 preserved as an heirloom in a family in ,dorsetshire4 ,it formerly belonged to ,queen ,charlotte1 and1 when purchased by the present owner1 had a label attached to it1 ,queen ,elizabeth's lace1 with the tradition that it was made in commemoration of the defeat of the ,spanish ,armada1 as the ships1 dolphins1 and national emblems testify4 ,at this we beg to demur1 as no similar lace was made at that period2 but we do not doubt its having been made in honour of that victory1 for the building is decidedly old ,tilbury ,fort1 familiar to all by the pencil of ,stanfield4 ,but the lace is point d',argentan1 as we see by the hexagonal bride ground and the workmanship of the pattern4 ,none but the best lace-workers could have made it2 it was probably the handiwork of some ,english lady1 or the pattern1 designed in ,england1 may have been sent to ,argentan to execute1 perhaps as a present to ,queen ,charlotte4 ,since the ,reformation the clothing trade declined1 writes ,defoe1 of ,sherborne4 ,before #agjj1 making buttons1 haberdashery wares1 and bone laces employed a great many hands2 which said piece of information is repeated word for word in the ,imperial ,cyclopdia4 ,other authors1 such as ,anderson1 declare1 at a far later date1 ,sherborne to carry on a good trade in lace1 and how1 up to #aghj1 much blonde1 both white and black1 and of various colours1 was made there1 of which a supply was sent to all markets4 ,from the latter end of the eighteenth century1 the lace trade of ,sherborne declined1 and gradually died out4 ,the points of ,lyme ,regis rivalled1 in the eighteenth century1 those of ,honiton and ,blandford1 and when the trade of the last-named town passed away1 ,lyme and ,honiton laces held their own1 side by side1 in the ,london market4 ,the fabric of ,lyme ,regis1 for a period1 came more before the public eye1 for that old1 deserted1 and half-forgotten mercantile city1 in the eighteenth century1 once more raised its head as a fashionable watering-place4 ,prizes were awarded by the #cih;,anti-,gallican ,society#aace to ,miss ,mary ,channon1 of ,lyme ,regis1 and her fellow-townswoman1 ,miss ,mary ,ben1 for ruffles of needle point and bone lace4 ,the reputation of the fabric1 too1 of ,lyme ,regis reached even the court2 and when ,queen ,charlotte first set foot on ,english ground1 she wore a head and lappets of ,dorset manufacture4 ,some years later a splendid lace dress was made for her ,majesty by the workers of ,lyme1 which1 says the annalist of our southern coast1#aacf gave great satisfaction at court4 ,the makers of this costly product1 however1 received but fourpence a day for their work4 ,the laces of ,lyme1 like all good articles1 were expensive4 ,a narrow piece set quite plain round an old woman's cap would cost four guineas1 nor was five guineas a yard considered an exorbitant price4 ,it was a favourite custom at ,lyme for lovers to have their initials entwined and worked together on a piece of ornamental lace4 ,the making of such expensive lace being scarcely found remunerative1 the trade gradually expired2 and when the order for the marriage lace of ,queen ,victoria reached the southern counties1 not one lace-maker was to be found to aid in the work in the once flourishing town of ,lyme ,regis4 #cii;,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,,devonshire4 ,bone lace and ,cyder4--,anderson4 ,at ,axminster1 you may be furnished with fyne flax thread there spunne4 ,at ,honyton and ,bradninch with bone lace much in request4--,westcote4 ,,honiton4 ,the lace industry found its way to ,devonshire1 if the generally-accepted theory be correct1 by the ,flemish refugees flying from the persecutions of the ,duke of ,alva4 ,there is much probability to support the theory1 and some names1#aacg of undoubted ,flemish origin1 appear among the entries of the church registers still preserved at ,honiton1 towards the latter end of the sixteenth century--names all handed down to their descendants in the present generation1 and in these families the fabric has continued for a long lapse of years4 ,on the other hand1 if there had been any considerable number of ,flemings in ,devonshire1 they would surely have founded a company of their ,reformed ,church1 and no reference is found in the published books of the archives of the ,london ,dutch ,church of any such company in ,devonshire1 whereas references abound to places in the ,eastern ,counties and ,midlands where ,flemings were settled4 ,lace was made on the pillow in the ,low ,countries by the middle of the sixteenth century1 so by the date of the ,alva persecution 7#aefh-gg7 the people might have learned it in sufficient numbers to start it wherever they set up their new home4 ,up to that date in ,england lace was made with the needle1#aach #djj;and it was not till we read of bone-lace that it may be taken to mean pillow-lace4 ,the term bone1 according to ,fuller1 was applied from the custom of using sheep's trotters as bobbins4 ,in ,devonshire1 however1 the tradition is that1 owing to the high price of pins1 the lace-makers1 being within reach of the sea1 made use of fish-bones1 and thus pillow-lace became bone-lace4 ,the term bobbin came into use soon afterwards1 but was not so universal as bone2 it occurs in the ,wardrobe ,accounts and ,royal inventories 7where one entry runs1 ,in ye shoppe1 #d oz4 and of ,bobbing lace1 #fs4 #d;d474 ,although the earliest known ,,ms4#aaci giving an account of the different towns in ,devon makes no mention of lace1 we find from it that ,mrs4 ,minifie1#aadj one of the earliest-named lace-makers1 was an ,englishwoman4 ,queen ,elizabeth was much addicted to the collecting and wearing of beautiful clothes2 but no mention of ,english lace by name seems to occur in the inventories and accounts1 and the earliest mention of ,honiton lace is by ,westcote1 who1 writing about #afbj1 speaks of bone lace much in request being made at ,honiton and ,bradninch2 and again referring to ,honiton4 ,here1 says he1 is made abundance of bone lace1 a pretty toye now greatly in request2 and therefore the town may say with merry ,martial-- ,in praise for toyes such as this ,honiton second to none is4 ,the oft-cited inscription let into a raised tombstone1 near the wall of old ,honiton church1 together with ,westcote1 #djaprove the industry to have been well established in the reign of ,james ,i4 ,the inscription runs-- ,here lyeth ye body of ,james ,rodge1 of ,honinton1 in ye ,county of ,devonshire 7,bonelace ,siller1 hath given unto the poore of ,honinton ,p'ishe1 the benyfitt of #ajj for ever71 who deceased ye #bg of ,july ,ao ,di #afag ,,aetatae ,,svae #ej4 ,remember the ,poore4 ,there have been traditions that ,rodge was a valet who accompanied his master abroad1 and there learning the fine ,flemish stitches1 taught some ,devonshire women on his return home1 and was enabled to make a comfortable competence by their work1 bequeathing a sum of money to the poor of ,honiton2 but it is more probable that he was an ordinary dealer4 ,westcote1#aada who wrote about the year #afbj1 when noticing bone lace1 does not speak of it as a new manufacture2 the trade had already taken root and flourished1 for1 including the above-mentioned ,rodge1 the three earliest bone lace makers of the seventeenth century on record all at their decease bequeathed sums of money for the benefit of their indigent townspeople1 viz41 ,mrs4 ,minifie1#aadb before mentioned1 who died in #afag1 and ,thomas ,humphrey1 of ,honiton1 laceman1 who willed in the year #afeh #bj towards the purchase of certain tenements1 a notice of which benefaction is recorded on a painted board above the gallery of the old parish church4 ,by this time ,english lace had advanced in public estimation4 ,in the year #affj a royal ordinance of ,france provided that a mark should be affixed to thread lace imported from ,england as well as on that of ,flanders2 and we have already told elsewhere how the ,earl of ,essex procures1 through his countess1 bone lace to a considerable amount as a present to ,queen ,anne of ,austria4 ,speaking of bone lace1 writes ,fuller in his ,worthies3 ,much of this is made in and about ,honyton1 and weekly returned to ,london4444 ,modern is the use thereof in ,england1 and that not exceeding the middle of the reign of #djb,queen ,elizabeth4 ,let it not be condemned for a superfluous wearing because it doth neither hide1 nor heat1 seeing it doth adorn4 ,besides1 though private persons pay for it1 it stands the ,state in nothing2 not expensive of bullion like other lace1 costing nothing save a little thread descanted on by art and industry4 ,hereby many children1 who otherwise would be burthensome to the parish1 prove beneficial to their parents4 ,yea1 many lame in their limbs and impotent in their arms1 if able in their fingers1 gain a livelihood thereby2 not to say that it saveth some thousands of pounds yearly1 formerly sent over seas to fetch lace from ,flanders4 ,the ,english were always ready to protect their own trades and manufactures1 and various were the ,acts passed to prohibit the importation of foreign lace1 for the encouragement of home workers4 ,in #afih it was proposed to repeal the last preceding prohibition2 and1 from the text of a petition sent to the ,house of ,commons1 some interesting light is thrown on the extent of the trade at that time4 ,the making of ,bone-lace has been an ancient ,manufacture of ,england1 and the ,wisdom of our ,parliaments all along thought it the ,interest of this ,kingdom to prohibit its ,importation from ,foreign ,parts4444 ,this has revived the said ,languishing ,manufacture1 and there are now above one hundred thousand in ,england who get their living by it1 and earn by mere ,labour #ejj1jjj a year1 according to the lowest computation that can be made2 and the ,persons employed on it are1 for the most part1 ,women and children who have no other means of ,subsistence4 ,the ,english are now arrived to make as good lace in ,fineness and all other respects as any that is wrought in ,flanders1 and particularly since the last ,act1 so great an improvement is made that way that in ,buckinghamshire1 the highest prized lace they used to make was about eight shillings per yard1 and now they make lace there of above thirty shillings per yard1 and in ,dorsetshire and ,devonshire they now make lace worth six pound per yard4444 444 ,the ,lace ,manufacture in ,england is the greatest1 next to the woollen1 and maintains a multitude of ,people1 which otherwise the ,parishes must1 and that would soon prove a heavy burthen1 even to those concerned in the ,woollen ,manufacture4 ,on the ,resolution1 which shall be taken in this affair depends the ,well-being1 or ruin of numerous families in their ,country4 ,many laws have been made to set our ,poor on ,work1 and it is to be hoped none will be made to take away work from ,multitudes who are already employed4#aadc ,,plate ,,lxxxviii4 ,illustration3 ,,english1 ,,devonshire4 ,,reproductions ,,of ,,old ,,honiton ,,with ,,the ,,vrai ,r,,seau4--,made under ,mrs4 ,fowler's direction4 ,widths about #d inches4 ,photo by ,a4 ,dryden4 ,to face page #djb4 #djc;,even in #afee1 when the variety of points furnished matter for a letter from the members of the ,baptist ,church assembled at ,bridgewater1 the ,beleeven men1 unwilling to injure so nourishing a commerce1 merely censure points and more laces than are required on garments1 and these they desired might be proceeded against with all sweetness and tenderness and long-suffering4#aadd ,the conciliatory measures of the ,puritans1 maybe1 affected the trade less than the doing of ,lord ,cambury and ,lord ,churchill's dragoons in the suppression of ,monmouth's rebellion in #afhj1 by which time the lace-making art was carried on in many small country places in ,devon4 ,they pillaged the lace-makers right and left1 and1 when quartered at ,colyton1#aade these unruly soldiers broke into the house of one ,william ,bard1 a dealer in bone lace1 and there stole merchandise to the amount of #cbe #ags4 #i;d4#aadf ,the valuable manufactures of lace1 for which the inhabitants of ,devon have long been conspicuous1 are extending now from ,exmouth to ,torbay1#aadg writes ,defoe in #agbd4 #djd,these must1 however1 have received a check as regards the export trade1 for1 says ,savary1 who wrote about the same date1 ,depuis qu'on imite les dentelles nommes point d',angleterre en ,flandres1 ,picardie et ,champagne1 on n'en tire plus de ,londres pour la ,france4 ,great distress1 too1 is said to have existed among the ,honiton lace-makers after the two great fires of #agef and #agfg4 ,the second was of so devastating a character that the town had to be rebuilt4 ,shawe declares1 writing at the end of the eighteenth century3 ,for its present condition ,honiton is indebted to that dreadful fire which reduced three parts of it to ashes4 ,the houses now wear a pleasing aspect1 and the principal street1 extending from east to west1 is paved in a remarkable manner1 forming a canal1 well shouldered up on each side with pebbles and green turf1 which holds a stream of clear water with a square dipping place opposite each door1 a mark of cleanliness and convenience ,i never saw before4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aej4 ,three years previous to the ,great ,fire1#aadh among a number of premiums awarded by the ,anti-,gallican ,society for the encouragement of our lace trade1 the first prize of fifteen guineas is bestowed upon ,mrs4 ,lydia ,maynard1 of ,honiton1 in token of six pairs of ladies' lappets of unprecedented beauty1 exhibited by her4 ,about this time we read #dje;in ,bowen's ,geography#aadi that at ,honiton3 the people are chiefly employed in the manufactory of lace1 the broadest sort that is made in ,england1 of which great quantities are sent to ,london4 ,it acquired1 says ,lysons1 some years since1 the name of ,bath ,brussels lace4 ,to give a precise description of the earliest ,devonshire lace would now be impossible4 ,the bone or bobbin lace at first consisted of a small and simple imitation of the beautiful ,venetian geometrical cut-works and points1 mere narrow strips made by coarse threads plaited and interlaced4 ,they became wider and more elaborate as the workers gained experience4 ,specimens may be seen on two ,devonshire monuments1 though whether the lace of the district is imitated on the effigies is another matter2 in any case similar patterns were probably made there at the time4 ,one is on the monument of ,lady ,pole1 in ,colyton ,church1 where the lady's cape is edged with three rows of bone lace4 ,the other1 which is in excellent preservation1 is on the recumbent effigy of ,lady ,doddridge 7a member of the ,bampfylde family7 in ,exeter ,cathedral1 her cuffs and tucker being adorned with geometric lace of a good pattern4 ,both belong to the first part of the seventeenth century4 ,in the same ,cathedral is the monument of ,bishop ,stafford4#aaej ,his collar appears to be of a net-work1 embroidered in patterns of graceful design 7,fig4 #aea74 ,belgium was noted for her linens and delicately spun flax4 ,in consequence the ,flemings soon departed from the style of their ,italian masters1 and made laces of their own fine threads4 ,they worked out their own designs also1 and being great gardeners and fond of flowers1 it naturally came about that they composed devices of blossoms and foliage4 #djf;,illustration3 ,fig4 #aea4 ,,monument ,,of ,,bishop ,,stafford1 ,,exeter ,,cathedral4 ,these alterations in course of time found their way to ,england1 there being much intercourse between their brethren here established and those remaining in ,flanders4 ,the lace continued to get finer and closer in texture1 the flax thread being required so fine that it became necessary to spin it in damp underground cellars4 ,that the workers in ,england could not compete successfully against the foreigner with their home-made threads we find over and over again4 ,they also altered the ,brussels designs1 and instead of the beautiful fillings and open-work stitches1 substituted heavy guipure bars4 ,by this period cordonnet or gimp had come into use in ,brussels lace4 ,the vrai rseau or pillow-net ground1 succeeded the bride about the end of the seventeenth century4 ,this fashion enabled the flowers to be made separately and worked in with the net afterwards1 or rather the net was worked into the flowers on the pillow4 ,it was from the introduction of these separate sprigs that ,honiton lace was able to compete with ,brussels4 ,the pattern in ,fig4 #aec is sewn on the plain pillow ground1#aaea which was very beautiful and regular1 but very expensive4 ,it was made of the finest thread procured from ,antwerp1 the market price of which1 in #agij1 was #gj per pound1#aaeb and an old lace-maker told the author her father #djg;had1 during the war1 paid a hundred guineas a pound to the smugglers for this highly-prized and then almost unattainable commodity4 ,nor were the lace-worker's gains less remunerative4 ,she would receive as much as eighteen shillings a yard for the workmanship alone of a piece of this elaborate net1 measuring scarce two inches in width2#aaec and one of the old lace-dealers showed ,mrs4 ,treadwin a piece of ground eighteen inches square1 for the making of which she was paid fifteen pounds shortly before the establishment of the machine net manufacture4#aaed ,the price of lace was proportionately high4 ,a ,honiton veil would often cost a hundred guineas4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeb4 ,,monument ,,of ,,lady ,,doddridge4 #afad4 7,exeter ,cathedral47 ,the ,flemish character of ,fig4 #aeh is unmistakable4 ,the #djh;design of the flower vase resembles those of the old ,angleterre bride1 and in execution this specimen may fairly warrant a comparison with the productions of ,brabant4 ,if really of ,english make1 we should place its fabrication at the beginning of the eighteenth century1 for it was long before the ,devonshire lace-makers could rival in beauty the cordonnet of the ,flemish workers4 ,fig4 #aed is an example of the pattern worked in the favourite design of the butterfly and the acorn1 already familiar to us in the old point d',angleterre and in the smock of ,queen ,elizabeth4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aec4 ,the ,american ,war had an evil effect upon the lace trade1 and still worse was the ,french ,revolution1 which was followed by the fashion of classical dress4 ,lace became no longer necessary to a lady's wardrobe1 and the demand for it declined to a serious extent for the workers4 ,worse than these1 however1 was the introduction of the machine net1 the first factory being set up at ,tiverton in #ahae4 ,lysons writes shortly afterwards in #ahbb3 ,the manufactory of lace has much declined1 although the lace still retains its superiority4 ,some years ago1 at which time it was much patronised by the ,royal family1 the manufacturers of ,honiton employed #b1djj hands in the town and in the neighbouring villages1 but they do not now employ above #cjj4 ,for twenty years the lace trade suffered the greatest depression1 and the ,honiton lace-workers1 forsaking the designs of their forefathers1 introduced a most hideous set of patterns1 designed1 as they said1 out of their own heads4 ,turkey tails1 frying pans1 bullocks' hearts1 and the most senseless sprigs and borderings took the place of the graceful compositions of the old school4 ,not a leaf1 not a flower was copied from nature4 ,anxious to introduce a purer taste1 ,queen ,adelaide1 to whom a petition had been sent on behalf of the distressed lace-makers1 gave the order for a dress to be made of ,honiton sprigs1#aaee and commanded that the flowers should all be copied from nature4 ,the order was executed by ,mrs4 ,davey1 of ,honiton4 ,the skirt was encircled with a wreath of elegantly designed sprigs1 the initial of each flower forming the name of her ,majesty4#aaef ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aed4 ,,old ,,devonshire4 ,to face page #djh4 #dji,the example of the ,queen found new followers1 and when1 in the progress of time1 the wedding lace was required for ,queen ,victoria1 it was with difficulty the necessary number of workers could be obtained to make it4 ,it was undertaken by ,miss ,jane ,bidney1 who caused the work to be executed in the small fishing hamlet of ,beer#aaeg and its environs4 ,the dress cost #a1jjj4 ,it was composed entirely of ,honiton sprigs1 connected on the pillow by a variety of open-work stitches2 but the patterns were immediately destroyed1 so it cannot be described4 ,the bridal dresses of their ,royal ,highnesses the ,princess ,royal1 the ,princess ,alice1 and the ,princess of ,wales were all of ,honiton point1 the patterns consisting of the national flowers1 the latter with prince's feathers intermixed with ferns1 and introduced with the most happy effect4 ,the application of ,honiton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late years almost entirely superseded by the modern guipure 7,fig4 #aee74 ,the sprigs1 when made1 are sewn upon a piece of blue paper1 and then united either on the pillow by cut-works or purlings1 or else joined with the needle by various stitches--lacet point1 rseau1 cut-work1 and buttonhole stitch 7the most effective of all74 ,purling is made by the yard4 ,the ,honiton guipure has an original character almost unique4 ,the large pieces surpass in richness and #dajperfection any lace of the same kind made in ,belgium4 ,the reliefs are embroidered with the greatest delicacy1 and the beauty of the workmanship is exquisite2 and whereas the guipure applications of ,belgium require to be whitened with lead1 the ,honiton workers give up their lace in all its original brilliancy and whiteness4#aaeh ,the fault in the ,honiton lace has been its crowded and spiritless designs1 but in these great improvement was manifested in the ,exhibition of #ahfg4 ,captain ,marryat took much pains during a residence at ,sidmouth to procure for the lace-makers new patterns of flowers1 insects1 and other natural objects4 ,the younger members of the community accepted with gratitude these new patterns1 and one even reproduced a piece of braidwork in imitation of ,spanish point1 and also a collar from ,vecellio's book1 in a manner most creditable to her ingenuity4 ,in consequence of this movement1 some gentlemen connected with the ,bath and ,west of ,england ,society#aaei proposed that an exhibition should take place at the ,annual ,agricultural ,show1 held at ,clifton1 of ,honiton lace1 designs strictly after nature4 ,prizes to the amount of #ajj were given4 ,the exhibition was most successful4 ,queen ,victoria expressed a desire that the articles exhibited should be sent to ,windsor for her inspection1 and graciously commanded that two flounces with a corresponding length of trimming lace should be made for her4 ,a design executed by ,miss ,cecilia ,marryat having been approved of by her ,majesty1 the order for the lace was given to ,mrs4 ,hayman1 of ,sidmouth4 7,fig4 #aef is from one of the honeysuckle sprigs selected47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aee4 ,,honiton ,,guipure4 ,to face page #daj4 #daa,the ,honiton lace-makers show great aptitude in imitating the ,brussels designs1 and#aafj through the efforts of ,mrs4 ,treadwin have succeeded in reproducing the ancient lace in the most wonderful manner4 ,fig4 #aeh is a lappet in the ,brussels style shown in the ,international ,exhibition of #ahgd4 ,mrs4 ,treadwin produced admirable specimens after the pillow-made lace of ,genoa and ,flanders1 and also a reproduction of the ,venetian point in relief4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aef4 ,,honeysuckle ,,sprig ,,of ,,modern ,,honiton4 ,a new branch of industry has lately opened to the ,devonshire lace-maker--that of restoring or re-making old lace4 ,the splendid mantles1 tunics1 and flounces which enrich the shop-windows of the great lace-dealers of ,london are mostly concocted from old fragments by the ,devonshire lace-workers4 ,it is curious to see the ingenuity they display in re-arranging the old rags--and such they are--sent from ,london for restoration4 ,carefully cutting out the #dab;designs of the old work1 they sew them upon a paper pattern of the shape required4 ,the modes1 or fancy stitches1 are dexterously restored1 any deficient flower supplied1 and the whole joined together on the pillow4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeg4 ,,old ,,devonshire ,,point4 ,,trolly ,,lace4 ,trolly lace comes next in order4 ,it was quite different from anything else made in ,devonshire1 and resembled many of the laces made in the midlands at the present time4 ,it was made of coarse ,british thread1 and with heavier and larger bobbins1 and worked straight on round and round the pillow4 ,the origin of ,trolly was undoubtedly ,flemish1 but it is said to have reached ,devonshire at the time of the ,french ,revolution1 through the ,normandy peasants1 driven by want of employment from their own country1 where lace was a great industry during the eighteenth century4 ,the origin of trolly is from the ,flemish ,trolle ,kant1 where the design was outlined with a thick thread1 or1 possibly1 it may be derived from a corruption of the ,french toil1 applied to distinguish a flat linen pattern from the ground or treille1 a general term for a net ground4 ,it is now almost extinct in ,devonshire1 remaining in the hands of the midland counties1#aafa where it more properly belongs4#aafb ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeh4 ,,lappet ,,made ,,by ,,the ,,late ,,mrs4 ,,treadwin1 ,,of ,,exeter1 #ahfd4 ,to face page #dab4 #dac,trolly lace was not the work of women alone4 ,in the flourishing days of its manufacture1 every boy1 until he had attained the age of fifteen1 and was competent to work in the fields1 attended the lace schools daily4#aafc ,a lace-maker of ,sidmouth1 in #ahfi1 had learned her craft at the village dame school1#aafd in company with many boys4 ,the men1 especially the sailor returned from sea1 would again resume the employment of their boyhood1 in their hours of leisure1 and the labourer1 seated at his pillow on a summer's evening1 would add to his weekly gains4 ,mrs4 ,treadwin1 in her younger days1 saw some twenty-four men lace-makers in her native village of ,woodbury1 two of whom1 ,palmer by name1 were still surviving in #ahfi1 and one of these worked at his pillow so late as #ahbj4 ,captain ,marryat also succeeded in finding out a man of sixty1 one ,james ,gooding1 dweller in ,salcombe parish1 near ,sidmouth1 who had in his day been a lace-maker of some reputation4 ,i have made hundreds of yards in my time1 he said1 both wide and narrow1 but never worked regularly at my pillow after sixteen years of age4 ,delighted to exhibit the craft of his boyhood1 he hunted out his patterns1 #dad;and1 setting to work1 produced a piece of trolly edging1 which soon found a place in the albums of sundry lace-collecting ladies1 the last specimen of man-worked lace likely to be fabricated in the county of ,devon4#aafe ,the lace schools of this time were a great feature1 there being many in every village1 and as few other schools existed1 boys in addition to the girls of the place attended and learnt the industry4 ,the usual mode of procedure was this4 ,the children commenced attending at the age of five to seven1 and were apprenticed to the mistress for an average of two years1 who sold all their work for her trouble3 they then paid sixpence a week for a time and had their own lace1 then threepence1 and so on1 according to the amount of teaching they still required4 ,the young children went first from ten to twelve in the morning1 to accustom them to work by degrees4 ,at ,honiton the full hours were from eight to eight in the summer and in the depth of winter1 but in the spring and autumn less1 on account of the light1 as candles were begun only on ,september #crd--,nutting day--till ,shrovetide4 ,the old rhyme runs3-- ,be the ,shrovetide high or low1 ,out the candle we will blow4 ,at ,sidbury it was de rigueur that directly a young girl married1 however young1 she wore a cap1 but till then the lace-makers were famous for the beautiful dressing of their hair4 ,when school began they stood up in a circle to read the verses4 ,if any of them read jokily1 they were given a penalty1 and likewise for idleness--so much extra work4 ,in nearly all schools they were taught reading from the ,bible1 and in some they learnt writing2 but all these are now things of the past4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aei4 ,,venetian ,,relief ,,in ,,point4--,reproduced by the late ,mrs4 ,treadwin4 ,to face page #dad4 #dae,speaking of the occupation of lace-making1 ,cooke1 in his ,topography of ,devon1 observes3 ,it has been humanely remarked as a melancholy consideration that so much health and comfort are sacrificed to the production of this beautiful though not necessary article of decoration4 ,the sallow complexion1 the weakly frame and the general appearance of languor and debility of the operatives1 are sad and decisive proofs of the pernicious nature of the employment4 ,the small unwholesome rooms in which numbers of these females1 especially during their apprenticeship1 are crowded together are great aggravations of the evil4 ,he continues at some length1 as indeed do many writers of the eighteenth century1 to descant on this evil1 but times are changed1 sanitary laws and the love of fresh air have done much to remedy the mischief4#aaff ,the pillows1 too1 are raised higher than formerly1 by which means the stooping1 so injurious to health1 is avoided4 ,old lace-makers will tell stories of the cruel severities practised on the children in the dame schools of their day--of the length of time they sat without daring to move from the pillow1 of prolonged punishments imposed on idle apprentices1 and other barbarities1 but these are now tales of the past4#aafg ,ever since the ,great ,exhibition of #ahea drew attention to the industry1 different persons have been trying to encourage both better design and better manufacture1 but #dafthe majority of the people have sought a livelihood by meeting the extensive demand for cheap laces4 ,good patterns1 good thread1 and good work have been thrown aside1 the workers and small dealers recking little of the fact that they themselves were ruining the trade as much as the competition of machinery and machine-made lace1 and tarnishing the fair name of ,honiton throughout the world1 among those able to love and appreciate a beautiful art4 ,fortunately there are some to lead and direct in the right path1 and all honour must be given to ,mrs4 ,treadwin1 who started reproducing old laces4 ,she and her clever workers turned out the most exquisite copies of old ,venetian rose point1 ,valenciennes1 or ,flemish4 ,her successor1 ,miss ,herbert1 carries it on2 and while we have ,mrs4 ,fowler and her school at ,honiton1 and ,miss ,radford at ,sidmouth1 it would be easier to say what the heads and hands of the ,devon lace-workers could not do than to enumerate the many beautiful stitches and patterns they achieve2 needlepoint or pillow1 tape guipure or vrai rseau--there are able fingers to suit all tastes4#aafh ,mrs4 ,fowler1 of ,honiton1 has made a spirited attempt to teach some young people4#aafi ,she employs women and girls all the year round1 who work under the ,factory ,acts4 ,the girls are taught needlework in addition1 and to put together the sprigs made by the out-workers1 the arrangement of which requires great taste and careful superintendence4 ,the ,county ,council grants courses of lessons in various places1 some for all ages1 others for children4#aagj ,the ,italian laces made at ,beer is a new branch1 established by ,miss ,bowdon1 and ably carried on by ,miss ,audrey ,trevelyan of ,seaton4 ,this ,italian lace is made entirely on the pillow1 and the way in which the women of ,beer have picked up the stitches and mode of making speaks volumes for their skilfulness and adaptability4 ,there are still a good number of workers left in this most picturesque village4#aaga ,,plate ,,lxxxix4 ,illustration3 ,,english1 ,,devonshire4 ,,made ,,at ,,beer ,,for ,,the ,,paris ,,exhibition ,,of #aijj4--,miss ,a4 ,trevelyan adapted an ,italian design to the old ,honiton stitches4 ,to face page #daf4 #dag;,a beautiful county and a beautiful art have come down to us hand in hand4 ,let us do our best to prevent the one being marred and the other lost1 and keep them both together to be a joy and a pleasure for all time4 ,,japan4 ,the versatile ,japanese have copied the ,honiton method of making bobbin lace4 ,the ,government have encouraged a school at ,yokohama for pillow lace making1 under the supervision of an ,english lady1 where they turn out lace of a distinctive ,japanese character4 #dah;,,chapter ,,xxxiii4 ,,scotland4 ,with the pearlin above her brow4--,old ,scotch ,song4 ,pearlin-lace as fine as spiders' webs4--,heart of ,midlothian4 ,from her constant intercourse with ,france1 lace must have been early known in ,scotland4 ,of its use for ecclesiastical purposes1 at a period when it was still unknown to the laity1 we have evidence in the mutilated effigy of a crosiered ecclesiastic which once stood in a niche of the now ruined abbey church of ,arbroath4 ,the lace which adorns the robes of this figure is very elaborately and sharply chiselled1 and when first discovered1 still preserved some remains of the gold leaf with which it had been ornamented4 ,in the ,inventories of ,king ,james ,v4 we find constant mention of pasment of gold and silver1#aagb as well as an entry of--,ane gown of fresit clayth of gold1 with pasment of perle of gold smyth wark lynit with cramasy sating4#aagc ,and we have other proofs1#aagd in addition to the testimony of ,sir ,walter ,scott1 as given in the ,monastery1#aage that pasments of gold and silver as well as purle1 were already in daily use during ,king ,james's reign4 #dai;,indeed1 as early as #aege the ,general ,assembly of ,scotland found necessary1 as did the bishops in ,denmark1 to express its mind as to the style of dress befitting the clergy1 and prohibit all begares 7gardes7 of velvet on gown1 hose1 or coat1 all superfluous cut-out work1 all sewing on of pasments and laces4 ,a parchment1 too1 found in the cabinet of the ,countess of ,mar1#aagf entitled ,the ,passement ,bond1 signed by the ,duke of ,lennox and other nobles1 by which they engaged themselves to leave off wearing passement1 as a matter of expense and superfluity1 shows that luxury in dress had early found its way into ,scotland4 ,notwithstanding these entries1 it was not until the arrival of ,mary ,stuart in her northern dominions that lace in all its varieties appears4 ,the inventory of the ,queen's effects in #aefg1 printed by the ,bannatyne ,club1 gives entries of passements1 guimpeure d'or1 and guimpeure d'argent1#aagg with which her robes de satin blanc et jaune were bordes and chamares4 ,each style of embroidery and lace is designated by its special name4 ,there is the natte d'argent faite par entrelatz1 passement d'or et d'argent fait jour1 chamarr de bisette1#aagh etc4 ,the word dentelle1 as told elsewhere1#aagi occurs but once4 ,we have also alluded to the will made by the ,queen previous to the birth of ,james ,,vi41 and her bequest of her ouvrages maschs4#aahj ,a relic of this expression is yet found in the word mawsch1 or masch1 as the pinking of silk and muslin is termed in ,scotland1 an advertisement of which #dbj;accomplishment done here was seen a few years ago in the shop-windows of the old town of ,edinburgh4 ,in the ,palace of ,holyrood is still exhibited a small basket lined with blue silk1 and trimmed with a bone lace of rudely-spun flax1 run on with a ribbon of the same colour1 recorded to be an offering sent by ,queen ,elizabeth to her cousin previous to the birth of her godchild4 ,antiquaries assert the story to be a fable4 ,whether the lace be of the time or not1 as a work of art it is of no credit to any country4 ,how ,queen ,mary1 in her youth1 was instructed in the arts of point coup and lacis1 according to the works of ,vinciolo1 has been already related4#aaha ,of her talents as a needlewoman there is ample proof in the numerous beds1 screens1 etc41 treasured as relics in the houses of the nobles where she was held captive4 ,she knitted head-dresses of gold rseille1 with cuffs and collars#aahb en suite1#aahc to say nothing of nightcaps1 and sent them as presents to ,elizabeth1#aahd all of which1 we are told1 the ,queen received most graciously4 ,mary1 in her early portraits as ,dauphine of ,france1 wears no thread lace4 ,much fine gold embroidered with passament enriches her dresses2 her sleeves are of gold rzeuil4 ,in those of a later date1 like that taken when in ,lochleven ,castle1 her veil is bordered with a narrow bone lace--as yet a rarity--may be one of the same noted in the ,inventory of #aegh1 as ,fyve litell vaills of wovin rasour 7rseau7 of threde1 ane meekle twa of thame1 passmentit with perle and black silk4#aahe ,when the ,queen of ,scots ascended the scaffold she wore #dbaon her head1 writes ,burleigh's reporter1 a dressing of lawn edged with bone lace1 and a vest of lawn fastened to her caul1 edged with the same material4 ,this lace-edged veil was long preserved as a relic in the exiled ,stuart family1 until ,cardinal ,york bequeathed it to ,sir ,john ,cox ,hippisley4 ,miss ,pigott#aahf describes it of transparent zephyr gauze1 with a light check or plaid pattern interwoven with gold2 the form as that of a long scarf4#aahg ,sir ,john1 when exhibiting the veil at ,baden1 had the indiscretion to throw it over the ,queen of ,bavaria's head4 ,the ,queen shuddered at the omen1 threw off the veil1 and retired precipitately from the apartment1 evidently in great alarm4 ,cuttit out werk1 collars of hollie crisp1 quaiffs of woven thread1#aahh cornettes of layn 7linen7 sewit with cuttit out werk of gold1 wovin collars of threde1 follow in quick succession4 ,the cuttit out werk is mostly wrought in gold1 silver1 cramoisi1 or black silk4#aahi ,the ,queen's towell claiths are adorned in similar manner4#aaij ,the ,chartley ,inventory of #aefhaaia is rich in works of point coup and rzeuil1 in which are portrayed with the needle figures of birds1 fishes1 beasts1 and flowers1 coupps chascune en son carr4 ,the ,queen exercised much ingenuity in her labours1 varying the pattern according to her taste4 ,in the list are noted fifty-two specimens of flowers designed after nature1 tirs au naturel2 #abd birds2 as well as sixteen sorts of four-footed beasts1 entre lesquelles y ha un lyon assailant un sanglier2 with fifty-two fishes1 all of #dbb;divers sorts--giving good proofs of the poor prisoner's industry4 ,as to the designs after nature1 with all respect to the memory of ,queen ,mary1 the lions1 cocks1 and fishes of the sixteenth century which have come under our notice1 require a student of medival needlework rather than a naturalist1 to pronounce upon their identity4 ,james ,,vi4 of ,scotland1 reared in a hotbed of ,calvinism1 had not the means1 even if he had the inclination1 to indulge in much luxury in dress4 ,certain necessary entries of braid pasmentis of gold1 gold clinquant1 braid pasmentis1 cramoisi1 for the ornamenting of clokkis1 coittis1 breikis1 and roobes of the ,king1 with ,twa unce and ane half pasmentis of gold and silver to werk the headis of the fokkis1 made up the amount of expense sanctioned for the royal wedding2#aaib while #cd ells braid pasmentis of gold to trim a robe for his ,majesties darrest bedfellow the ,quene for her coronation1#aaic gives but a poor idea of the luxury of the ,scottish court4 ,various enactments#aaid were passed during the reign of ,james ,,vi4 against unnecessary sumptuousness in men's apparel1 by which no one except noblemen1 lords of session1 prelates1 etc41 were allowed to wear silver or gold lace4 ,provosts were permitted to wear silk1 but no lace pearlin or pasmenterie1 only a watling silk lace on the seams4#aaie ,no one but the above same privileged persons were to have pearlin on their ruffles1 sarkis1 napkins1 and sokkis1 and that pearlin to be made in the kingdom of ,scotland4 ,this ,act1 dated #afba1 is the first mention we have found of ,scottish-made lace4 ,james ,,vi4 having granted to one ,james ,bannatyne of ,leith a patent for the importing of foraine pearlin into the country1 in consequence of the great complaint of the embroiderers in #afci1 this patent is rescinded1 and the ,king forbids the entry of all foraine pearlin4 ,the word lace does not exist in the ,scotch language4 ,pearlin is the term used in old documents1 defined in the #dbc;dictionaries to be a species of lace made with thread4 ,in the old ,scotch songs it frequently occurs3--#aaif ,then1 round the ring she dealt them ane by ane1 ,clean in her pearlin keck1 and gown alane4 --,ross ,helonora4 ,again-- ,we maun hae pearlins and mabbies and cocks1 ,and some other things that ladies call smocks4 ,as the latter articles may appear more familiar to the world in general than kecks1 and mabbies1 and cocks1 we may as well explain a pearlin keck to signify a linen cap with a lace border2 a mabbie1 a mob2 a cock1 or cock-up1 no more eccentric head-dress than the lofty fontanges or commode of the eighteenth century4 ,again1 in ,rob ,roy we have the term pearlin3 when ,bailie ,nicol ,jarvie piteously pleads to his kinswoman1 ,helen ,macgregor1 he says-- ,i hae been serviceable to ,rob before now1 forbye a set of pearlins ,i sent yoursell when you were gaun to be married4 ,the recollection of these delicate attentions1 however1 has little effect on the ,highland chieftainess1 who threatens to have him chopped up1 if ill befalls her lord1 into as many square pieces as compose the ,macgregor tartan1 or throw him neck and heels into the ,highland loch4 ,montrose1 we read1 sent his lace ruffles to be starched and dressed before they were sewn on the embroidered sark he had made only to wear at his execution4 ,pearlin was provided for him which cost #aj an ell4 ,the close-fitting velvet cap1 enriched with lace1 appears in the seventeenth century to have been adopted by the lawyers of the ,scotch courts4 ,an example may be seen in the portrait of ,sir ,thomas ,hope1 ,lord ,advocate of ,scotland1 who died in #afdf1 which hangs in the ,hall of the ,advocates of ,edinburgh4 ,another 7,fig4 #afj7 appears in the engraving of ,sir ,alexander ,gibson1 ,bart41 ,lord ,durie1 one of the ,lords of ,session1 who died two years previously4 ,in #afgb1 when lace--point lace made of #dbdthread--came under the ban of the ,covenanters1 with a penalty of #ejj merks toties quoties1 the wearing such vanities on liveries is strictly forbidden2 servants1 however1 are allowed to wear out their masters' and mistresses' old clothes4 ,in #afgd1 his ,majesty1 understanding that the manufacture of pearlin and whyt lace made of thread 7whereby many people gain their livelihood7 was thereby much prejudiced and impaired1 declares that from henceforth it shall be free to all and every person within this kingdom to wear 'whyt lace1' as well as the privileged persons above mentioned4 ,finding these exclusions of little or no avail1 in ,january1 #afhe1 the ,act remits the wearing of lace1 both native and foreign1 to all folks living4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afj4 ,,sir ,,alexander ,,gibson1 ,,bart4 7,lord ,durie1 ,lord of ,session4 #afdd47 ,the dead now came under the scrutiny of the ,scotch ,parliament1 who order all lace or poynt1 gold or silver1 to be disused at interments1 under the penalty of #cjj pounds ,scots4#aaig ,from the united effects of poverty1 ,covenanters and #dbelegislation1 after the departure of the court for ,england1 luxury1 small though it was1 declined in ,edinburgh4 ,it was not till #afhj1 when ,james ,,ii41 as ,duke of ,york1 accompanied by ,mary of ,modena and his duteous daughter ,anne1 visited the ,scotch capital1 that anything like gaiety or dress can be said to have surprised the strait-laced population4 ,dryden1 sneering at the barbarism of the ,scotch capital1 writes1 in the prologue to a play delivered at ,oxford1 referring to a portion of the troop that accompanied the court to ,scotland-- ,laced linen there would be a dangerous thing2 ,it might perhaps a new rebellion bring-- ,the ,scot who wore it would be chosen king4 ,the ,highlander1 however1 when in full dress1 did not disdain to adopt the falling band and ruffles of guipure or ,flanders lace4 ,the advertisements and inventories of the first years of the eighteenth century give us little reason to imagine any change had been effected in the homely habits of the people4 ,at the marriage of a daughter of ,thomas ,smythe1 of ,methuen1 in #agja1 to ,sir ,thomas ,moncrieffe1 the bride had a head-suit and ruffles of cut-work which cost nearly six pounds ten shillings4#aaih ,few and scanty advertisements of roups of white thread lace appear in the journals of the day4#aaii ,and in such a state matters continued till the ,jacobites1 #dbf;going and coming from ,st4 ,germains1 introduced ,french fashions and luxuries as yet unheard of in the then aristocratic ,canongate4 ,it sounds strange to a traveller1 as he wanders among these now deserted closes of ,edinburgh1 to read of the gay doings and of the grand people who1 in the last century1 dwelt within these poor-looking abodes4 ,a difficult matter it must have been to the ,jacobite beauties1 whose hoop 7from #agbe-h7 measured nine yards in circumference1 to mount the narrow winding staircases of their dwellings2 and this very difficulty gave rise to a luxury of underclothing almost unknown in ,england or elsewhere4 ,every lady wore a petticoat trimmed with the richest point lace4 ,nor was it only the jupe that was lace-trimmed4 ,besides ,twa lappets at her head1 that flaunted gallantlie1 ladies extended the luxury to finely-laced garters4 ,in #agbj the bubble ,company for the trading in ,flanders laces appears advertised in the ,scotch papers in large and attractive letters4 ,we strongly doubt1 however1 it having gained any shareholders among the prudent population of ,edinburgh4 ,the prohibition of lace made in the dominions of the ,french king#abjj was a boon to the ,jacobites1 and many a lady1 and gentleman too1 became wondrous loyal to the exiled family1 bribed by a packet from ,st4 ,germains4 ,in the first year of ,george ,,ii41 says the ,gazette1#abja a parcel of rich lace was secretly brought to the ,duke of ,devonshire1 by a mistake in the similarity of the title4 ,on being opened1 hidden among the folds1 was found a miniature portrait of the ,pretender1 set round with large diamonds4 ,the packet was addressed to a noble lord high in office1 one of the most zealous converts to loyalty4#abjb #dbg,smuggling was universal in ,scotland in the reigns of ,george ,i4 and ,george ,,ii41 for the people1 unaccustomed to imposts1 and regarding them as an unjust aggression upon their ancient liberties1 made no scruple to elude the customs whenever it was possible so to do4 ,it was smuggling that originated the ,porteous riots of #agcf2 and in his description of the excited mob1 ,sir ,walter ,scott makes ,miss ,grizel ,dalmahoy exclaim--,they have ta'en awa' our ,parliament4 ,they hae oppressed our trade4 ,our gentles will hardly allow that a ,scots needle can sew ruffles on a sark or lace on an owerlay4#abjc #dbh;,,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ,,lace ,,manufactures ,,of ,,scotland4 ,sae put on your pearlins1 ,marion1 ,and kirtle o' the cramasie4--,scottish ,song4 ,during the treasonable year of #agde ,scotland was far too occupied with her risings and executions to give much attention to her national industry4 ,up to that time considerable pains had been taken to improve the spinning of fine thread1 prizes had been awarded1 and the art taught in schools and other charitable institutions4 ,it was not till the middle of the eighteenth century that ,anne1 ,duchess of ,hamilton1 known to ,society by tradition as one of the beautiful ,miss ,gunnings1 seeing lace-makers at work when travelling on the ,continent1 thought employment might be given to the women of her own country by introducing the art into ,scotland4 ,the ,duchess therefore brought over women from ,france1 and caused them to teach the girls in her schools how to make bunt lace1 as it was termed4 ,sir ,john ,sinclair thus notices the fabric3--,a small manufacture of thread lace has long been carried on here4 ,at an early period it was the occupation of a good many women1 but1 from the fluctuation of fashion1 it has fallen greatly into disuse4 ,fashion again revived the demand1 and the late ,duchess of ,hamilton1 afterwards of ,argyle1 found still some lace-workers remaining1 to whom her own demand1 and that of those who followed her example1 gave employment4 ,to these her ,grace added twelve orphan girls1 who were clothed1 maintained1 and taught at her expense4 ,others learned the art1 and while the demand lasted1 the manufacture employed a good many hands4 ,though the number is again diminished1 there are still above forty at the business1 who #dbimake handsome laces of different patterns1 besides those who work occasionally for themselves or their friends4 ,perhaps1 under the patronage of the present respectable duchess1 the manufacture of ,hamilton lace may again become as flourishing as ever4#abjd ,the ,duchess of ,hamilton1 says the ,edinburgh ,amusement of #ageb1 has ordered a home to be set up in ,hamilton for the reception of twelve poor girls and a mistress4 ,the girls are to be taken in at the age of seven1 clothed1 fed1 taught to spin1 make lace1 etc41 and dismissed at fourteen4 ,the work of the fair ,duchess throve1 for1 in #aged1 we read how--,the ,duchess of ,hamilton has now the pleasure to see the good effects of her charity4 ,her ,grace's small orphan family have1 by spinning1 gained a sum of money1 and lately presented the ,duke and ,duchess with a double piece of ,holland1 and some suits of exceeding fine lace ruffles1 of their own manufacture1 which their ,graces did them the honour to wear on the ,duke's birthday1 ,july #ad1 and which vied with anything worn on the occasion1 though there was a splendid company present4 ,the yarn of which the ruffles were made weighed only ten drops each hank4#abje ,it was probably owing to the influence of this impulsive ,irishwoman that1 in the year #aged1 was founded ,the ,select ,society of ,edinburgh for encouraging the arts and manufactures of ,scotland1 headed by the ,duke of ,hamilton4 ,this society was contemporary with the ,anti-,gallican in ,england and the ,dublin ,society1 though we believe1 in this case1 ,dublin can claim precedence over the capital of ,north ,britain4 ,at a meeting of the society it was moved that ,the annual importation of worked ruffles and of bone lace and edging into this country is considerable4 ,by proper encouragement we might be supplied at home with these ornaments4 ,it was therefore resolved-- ,that a premium be assigned to all superior merit in such work2 such a one as may be a mark of respect to women of fashion1 and may also be of some solid advantage to those whose laudable industry contributes to their own support4 #dcj;,for the best imitation of ,dresden work1 or a pair of men's ruffles1 a prize of #e #es4 ,for the best bone lace1 not under twenty yards1 #e #es4 ,the gainers of these two best articles may have the money or a gold medal1 at their option4 ,as may be supposed1 the newly-founded fabric of the ,duchess was not passed over by a society of which the ,duke himself was the patron4 ,in the year #ageg we have among the prizes adjudged one of two guineas to ,anne ,henderson1 of ,hamilton1 for the whitest and best and finest lace1 commonly called ,hamilton lace1 not under two yards4 ,a prize had already been offered in #agee1abjf but1 as stated the following year1 no lace was given in4 ,prizes continued in #ageh and #agei to be given for the produce of ,hamilton2 in the last year to the value of four guineas4#abjg ,the early death of the ,duke of ,hamilton2 and the second marriage of the ,duchess1 did not in any way impede the progress of ,hamilton lace1 for1 as late as #aggh1 we read in ,locke's ,essays on the ,scotch ,commerce--,the lace manufactory1 under the patronage of the amiable ,duchess of ,hamilton 7now ,argyle71 goes on with success and spirit4 ,with respect to the quality of this ,hamilton lace1 laudable as were the efforts of the ,duchess1 she succeeded in producing but a very coarse fabric4 ,the specimens which have come under our notice are edgings of the commonest description1 of a coarse thread1 always of the lozenge pattern 7,fig4 #afa72 being strong and firm1 it was used for nightcaps1 never for dresses1 and justified the description of a lady who described it as of little account1 and spoke of it as only ,hamilton4 ,it appears that the ,edinburgh ,society died a natural death about #agfd1 but1 notwithstanding the untimely demise of this patriotic club1 a strong impetus had been given to the #dcalace-makers of ,scotland4#abjh ,lace-making was introduced into the schools1 and1 what was better far1 many daughters of the smaller gentry and scions of noble ,jacobite houses1 ruined by the catastrophe of #agde1 either added to their incomes or supported themselves wholly by the making of the finer points4 ,this custom seems to have been general1 and1 in alluding to it1 ,mrs4 ,calderwood speaks of the helplessness of the ,english women in comparison to the ,scotch4 ,in the journals of the day we have constant advertisements1 informing the public of the advantages to be gained by the useful arts imparted to their offspring in their establishments1 inserted by ladies of gentle blood--for the ,scotchwomen of the last century no more disdained to employ themselves in the training of youth than does now a ,french dame de qualit to place herself at the head of the ,sacr-,coeur1 or some other convent devoted to educational purposes4#abji ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afa4 ,,hamilton4 ,the entry of all foreign laces was excluded by law4 ,the #dcb,scotch nation of the ,hanoverian persuasion were wrath at the frivolity of the ,jacobite party4 #djj1jjj have been sent out of the country during the last year1 writes the ,edinburgh ,advertiser of #agfd1 to support our exiled countrymen in ,france1 where they learn nothing but folly and extravagance4 ,english laces were not included in the prohibition4 ,in #agfc1 that neat shop near the ,stinking ,style1 in the ,lukenbooths1 held by ,mr4 ,james ,baillie1 advertises ,trollies1 ,english laces1 and pearl edgings4 ,four years later1 black silk lace and guipure are added to the stock1 mennuet1 and very cheap bone lace4#abaj ,great efforts1 and with success1 were made for the improvement of the thread manufacture1 for the purchase of which article at ,lille #bjj1jjj were annually sent from ,scotland to ,france4 ,badly-spun yarn was seized and burned by the stamp master2 of this we have frequent mention4#abaa ,peuchet1 speaking of ,scotland1 says3--,il s'est form prs d',edinbourg une manufacture de fil de dentelle4 ,on prtend que le fil de cette manufacture sert faire des dentelles qui non-seulement galent en beaut celles qui sont fabriques avec le fil de l'tranger1 mais encore les surpassent en dure4 ,cet avantage serait d'autant plus grand que l'importation de ce fil de l'tranger occasionne aux habitans de ce royaume une perte annuelle de #ajj1jjj4abab ,whether about the year #agge any change had taken place in the legislation of the customs of ,scotland1 and they had become regulated by ,english law1 we cannot say1 but suddenly constant advertisements of ,brussels lace and fine point appear in the ,gazette1 and this at the very time ,loch #dccwas doing his best to stir up once more ,scotch patriotism with regard to manufactures4#abac ,the ,scotch ,foresters set the example at their meeting in #agff1 and then--we hear nothing more on the matter4 ,the ,weekly ,magazine of #aggf strongly recommends the art of lace-making as one calculated to flourish in ,scotland1 young girls beginning to learn at eight years of age1 adding3 ,the directors of the hospital of ,glasgow have already sent twenty-three girls to be taught by ,madame ,puteau1#abad a native of ,lisle1 now residing at ,renfrew2 you will find the lace of ,renfrew cheaper1 as good and as neat as those imported from ,brussels1 ,lisle1 and ,antwerp4 ,david ,loch also mentions the success of the young ,glasgow lace-makers1 who made lace1 he says1 from #aj;d4 to #ds4 #f;d4 per yard4 ,he adds3 ,it is a pleasure to see them at work4 ,i saw them ten days ago4 ,he recommends the managers of the ,workhouse of the ,canongate to adopt the same plan3 adding1 they need not send to ,glasgow for teachers1 as there are plenty at the ,orphan ,hospital at ,edinburgh capable of undertaking the office4 ,of the lace fabricated at ,glasgow we know nothing1 save from an advertisement in the ,caledonian ,mercury of #aggh1 where one ,william ,smith1 ,lace-maker1 at the ,greenhead1 ,glasgow1 informs the public he has for some years made and bleached candlewicks4 ,anderson and ,loch did not agree on the subject of lace-making1 the former considering it an unstable fabric1 too easily affected by the caprices of fashion4#abae #dcd;,be that as it may1 the manufacture of thread for lace alone employed five hundred machines1 each machine occupying thirty-six persons3 the value of the thread produced annually #age1jjj4 ,loch adds1 that in consequence of the cheapness of provisions1 ,scotland1 as a country1 is better adapted to lace-making than ,england4 ,in consequence of ,loch's remarks1 his ,majesty's ,board of ,trustees for the ,fisheries and ,manufactures1 after asking a number of questions1 determined to give proper encouragement and have mistresses for teaching the different kinds of lace made in ,england and ,france1 and oblige them to take girls of the poorer class1 some from the hospitals1 and the mistress for five years to have the benefit of their work4 ,a girl might earn from #aj;d4 to #as4 per day4 ,they gave a salary to an experienced person from ,lisle for the purpose of teaching the making of thread2 his wife to instruct in lace-making4 ,with the records of #aghh end all mention of lace-making in ,scotland4#abaf #dce;,,chapter ,,xxxv4 ,,ireland4 ,the undoubted aptitude for lace-making of the women of ,ireland4--,juror's ,report1 ,international ,exhibition4 #ahfb4 ,it is peculiarly interesting to note the various foreign influences which have done their part in the creation of ,irish lace4 ,italian and ,flemish1 ,greek1 ,french and ,english1 all have lent their aid4--,a4 ,loyd4 ,the ,queen1 ,feb4 #fth1 #ahig4 ,little is known of the early state of manufactures in ,ireland1 save that the art of needlework was held in high estimation4 ,by the sumptuary laws of ,king ,mogha ,nuadhad1 killed at the ,battle of ,maylean1 ,a4,d4 #aib1 we learn that the value of a queen's raiment1 should she bring a suitable dowry1 ought to amount to the cost of six cows2 but of what the said raiment consisted history is dark4 ,the same record1 however1 informs us that the price of a mantle1 wrought with the needle1 should be a young bullock or steer4#abag ,this hooded mantle is described by ,giraldus ,cambrensis as composed of various pieces of cloth1 striped1 and worked in squares by the needle2 maybe a species of cut-work4 ,morgan1 who wrote in #aehh1 declares the saffron-tinted shirts of the ,irish to contain from twenty to thirty ells of linen4 ,no wonder they are described-- ,with pleates on pleates they pleated are1 ,as thick as pleates may lie4#abah ,it was in such guise the ,irish appeared at court before ,queen ,elizabeth1#abai and from them the yellow starch of ,mrs4 ,turner may have derived its origin4 ,the ,irish1 however1 #dcfproduced the dye not from saffron1 but from a lichen gathered on the rocks4 ,be that as it may1 the ,government prohibited its use1 and the shirts were reduced in quantity to six ells1#abbj for the making of which new-fangled pair of ,gally-cushes1 i4e41 ,english shirts1 as we find by the ,corporation ,book of ,kilkenny 7#aecg71 eighteenpence was charged if done with silk or cut-work4 ,ninepence extra was charged for every ounce of silk worked in4 ,an ,irish smock wrought with silk and gold was considered an object worthy of a king's wardrobe1 as the inventory of ,king ,edward ,,iv4#abba attests3--,item1 one ,irishe smocke wrought with gold and silke4 ,the ,rebellion at an end1 a friendly intercourse1 as regards fashion1 was kept up between the ,english and the ,irish4 ,the ruff of geometric design1 falling band1 and cravat of ,flanders lace1 all appeared in due succession4 ,the ,irish1 always lovers of pomp and show1 early used lace at the interments of the great1 as appears from an anecdote related in a letter of ,mr4 ,o',halloran3--,the late ,lord ,glandore told me1 he writes1 that when a boy1 under a spacious tomb in the ruined monastery at his seat1 ,ardfert ,abbey 7,co4 ,kerry71 he perceived something white4 ,he drew it forth1 and it proved to be a shroud of ,flanders lace1 the covering of some person long deceased4 ,in the beginning of the eighteenth century a patriotic feeling arose among the ,irish1 who joined hand in hand to encourage the productions of their own country4 ,swift was among the first to support the movement1 and in a prologue he composed1 in #agba1 to a play acted for the benefit of the ,irish weavers1 he says3-- ,since waiting-women1 like exacting jades1 ,hold up the prices of their old brocades1 ,we'll dress in manufactures made at home4 ,,plate ,,xc4 ,illustration3 ,,irish1 ,,youghal4--,needle-point fan mount1 made at the ,presentation ,convent1 ,youghal1 for ,h4,r4,h4 ,princess ,maud of ,wales on her marriage1 #ahif4 ,width in centre #h in4 ,photo in ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #dcf4 #dcg,shortly afterwards1 at a meeting1 he proposed the following resolution3-- ,that the ladies wear ,irish manufactures4 ,there is brought annually into this kingdom near #ij1jjj worth of silk1 whereof the greater part is manufactured2 #cj1jjj more is expended in muslin1 holland1 cambric1 and calico4 ,what the price of lace amounts to is not easy to be collected from the ,custom-house book1 being a kind of goods that1 taking up little room1 is easily run2 but1 considering the prodigious price of a woman's head-dress at ten1 twelve1 twenty pounds a yard1 it must be very great4 ,though a club of patriots had been formed in ,ireland since the beginning of the eighteenth century1 called the ,dublin ,society1 they were not incorporated by charter until the year #agdi2 hence many of their records are lost1 and we are unable to ascertain the precise period at which they took upon themselves the encouragement of the bone lace trade in ,ireland4 ,from their ,transactions we learn that1 so early as the year #agdc1 the annual value of the bone lace manufactured by the children of the workhouses of the city of ,dublin amounted to #afd #ads4 #aj;d4#abbb ,in consequence of this success1 the society ordain that #cd #bs4 #f;d4 be given to the ,lady ,arabella ,denny to distribute among the children1 for their encouragement in making bone lace4 ,indeed1 to such a pitch were the productions of the needle already brought in ,ireland1 that in the same year1 #agdc1 the ,dublin ,society gave ,robert ,baker1 of ,rollin ,street1 ,dublin1 a prize of #aj for his imitation of ,brussels lace ruffles1 which are described as being most exquisite both in design and workmanship4 ,this ,brussels lace of ,irish growth was much prized by the patriots4#abbc ,from this time the ,dublin ,society acted under their good genius1 the ,lady ,arabella ,denny4 ,the prizes they awarded were liberal1 and success attended their efforts4 ,in #agee we find a prize of #b #aes4 #f;d4 awarded to #dch,susanna ,hunt1 of ,fishamble ,street1 aged eleven1 for a piece of lace most extraordinarily well wrought4 ,miss ,elinor ,brereton1 of ,raheenduff1 ,queen's ,county1 for the best imitation of ,brussels lace with the needle1 #g4 ,on the same occasion ,miss ,martha ,m',cullow1 of ,cork ,bridge1 gains the prize of #e for ,dresden point4 ,miss ,mary ,gibson has #b for ,cheyne ,lace1#abbd of which we have scarcely heard mention since the days of ,queen ,elizabeth4 ,bone lace had never in any quantity been imported from ,england4 ,in #agjc but #b1ccc yards1 valuing only #aaf #acs41 or #as4 per yard1 passed through the ,irish ,custom ,house4 ,ireland1 like the rest of the ,united ,kingdom1 received her points either from ,france or ,flanders4 ,the thread used in the ,irish fabric was derived from ,hamburg1 of which1 in #agfe1 #b1egc lbs4 were imported4 ,it was in this same year the ,irish club of young gentlemen refused1 by unanimous consent1 to toast or consider beautiful any lady who should wear ,french lace or indulge in foreign fopperies4 ,during the two succeeding years the lace of various kinds exhibited by the workhouse children was greatly approved of1 and the thanks of the ,society offered to the ,lady ,arabella ,denny4#abbe ,prizes given to the children1 to the amount of #cd #bs4 #f;d42 the same for bone lace made by other manufacturers2 and one half the sum is also to be applied to thread lace made with knitting needles4 ,a certain ,mrs4 ,rachel ,armstrong1 of ,inistioge 7,co4 ,kilkenny71 is also awarded a prize of #aa #gs4 #f;d4 for having caused a considerable quantity of bone lace to be made by girls whom she has instructed and employed in the work4 ,among the premiums granted to poor gentlewomen we find3 ,to ,miss ,jane ,knox1 for an apron of elegant pattern and curiously wrought1 #f #afs4 #f;d41 and silver medals to two ladies who1 we suppose1 are above #dcireceiving money as a reward4 ,the ,society recommend that the bone lace made be exposed for sale in the warehouses of the ,irish ,silk ,company4 ,in consequence of the emulation excited among all classes1 advertisements appear in the ,dublin ,news of ladies very capable of instructing young misses in fine lace-making1 needlework point1 broderie en tambour1 all in the genteelest taste4 ,lady ,arabella stood not alone as a patroness of the art4 ,in #aggj we read how a considerable quantity of bone lace of extraordinary fineness and elegance of pattern1 made at ,castlebar in the ,co4 of ,mayo1 being produced to the ,society1 and it appearing that the manufacture of bone lace was founded1 and is at present supported there by ,lady ,bingham1 it was ordered that the sum of #be be paid into the hands of her ladyship1 to be disposed of in such encouragements as she shall judge will most effectually conduce to the carrying on and improvement of the said manufacture at ,castlebar4 ,the thanks of the ,society are at the same time voted to her ladyship4 ,in consequence of the large quantity fabricated1 after the lapse of a few years the ,society1 in #aggc1 found themselves compelled to put some bounds to their liberality4 ,no prizes are given for any lace exhibited at less than #aas4 #d;d4 the yard1 and that only to those not resident in the city of ,dublin or within five miles of it4 ,twenty per cent4 will be given on the value of the lace1 provided it shall not exceed #ejj in value4 ,the ,society do not1 however1 withdraw the annual premium of #cj for the products of the famishing children of the city of ,dublin workhouse1#abbf always directed by the indefatigable ,lady ,arabella ,denny4#abbg ,from that period we hear no more of the ,dublin ,society and its prizes awarded for point1 ,dresden1 ,brussels1 or bone lace4 ,the manufacture of gold and silver lace having met with considerable success1 the ,irish ,parliament1 in #aggh1 gave it their protection by passing an ,act prohibiting the entry of all such commodities either from ,england or foreign parts4 #ddj;,and now for forty years and more history is silent on the subject of lace-making by the famishing children of the ,emerald ,isle4#abbh ,no existing ,irish lace industry is as old as the appliqu lace which has been made in the neighbourhood of ,carrickmacross since the year #ahbj4 ,the process of its manufacture is simple enough1 for the pattern is cut from cambric and applied to net with point stitches4 ,many accounts have been given of its origin4 ,some assign its genesis to ,india or to ,persia1 while the ,florentine historian1 ,vasari1 claims the artist ,botticelli as its inventor4 ,in any case1 there can be no doubt that vast quantities were produced in ,italy from the thirteenth to the seventeenth centuries4 ,such a specimen it was that ,mrs4 ,grey ,porter1 wife of the then rector of ,dunnamoyne1 taught her servant1 ,anne ,steadman1 to copy1 and also spread the art amongst the peasant women in the neighbourhood with such success that ,miss ,reid1 of ,rahans1 gathered together the young women round ,culloville and taught them to make lace on the same model4 ,the girls flocked in from the surrounding districts to learn the work4 ,it was1 however1 only dependent on private orders1 and gradually suffered from over-production1 and threatened to die out1 until it was revived after the great famine of #ahdf4 ,by ,mr4 ,tristram ,kennedy1 the manager of the ,bath estate1 and ,captain ,morant1 the agent of the ,shirley estate1 a vacant house was turned into a school1 and this gave rise to the ,bath and ,shirley ,school1 which has done so much to hand down this industry to the present day4 ,some samples of ,brussels and guipure lace were brought to the school1 where the teacher had them remodelled and placed in the hands of the best workers3 and ,carrickmacross became identified with some of the finest guipure that ,ireland has produced4#abbi ,in the year #ahbi the manufacture of ,limerick tambour lace was first established in ,ireland4 ,tambour work is of ,eastern origin1 and was known in ,china1 ,persia1 ,india and #dda,turkey long before it spread to the ,united ,kingdom4 ,this work is still extensively carried on in the ,east1 where it is much appreciated for its varied colours1 as well as the labour expended upon it4 ,until the middle of the last century1 tambour lace was unknown in ,europe1 with the exception of ,turkey4 ,it was about that time it was introduced into ,saxony and ,switzerland1 but the knowledge of the art of making the lace did not reach ,england until #ahbj4 ,lace1 in the strictest sense of the word1 it cannot be termed4 ,it is called tambour from the fact that the frame on which it is worked bears some resemblance to a drum-head or tambourine4 ,on this is stretched a piece of ,brussels or ,nottingham net4 ,a floss thread or cotton is then drawn by a hooked or tambour needle through the meshes of the net1 and the design formed from a paper drawing which is placed before the worker4 ,run lace is of a finer and lighter character4 ,the pattern is formed on the net with finer thread1 which is not drawn in with the tambour1 but run in with the point needle4 7,this description of lace was made in ,nottinghamshire during the eighteenth century1 and appears to have been copied from foreign designs1 chiefly from those of ,lille47 ,it came into fashion after ,nottingham machine net had made the work possible1 and is still called by old people ,nottingham lace4 ,this fabric was first introduced into ,ireland by one ,charles ,walker1#abcj a native of ,oxfordshire1 who brought over twenty-four girls as teachers1 and commenced manufacturing at a place in ,limerick called ,mount ,kennet4 ,his goods were made entirely for one house in ,st4 ,paul's ,churchyard1 until that house became bankrupt in #ahcd1 after which a traveller was sent through ,england1 ,scotland and ,ireland to take orders4 ,her ,excellency ,lady ,normanby1 wife of the ,lord ,lieutenant1 gave great encouragement to the fabric1 causing dresses to be made1 not only for herself1 but also for ,her ,majesty the ,queen of the #ddb;,belgians1 and the ,grand ,duchess of ,baden4 ,the subsequent history of ,limerick laces bears a close resemblance to that of the other ,irish lace industries4 ,mr4 ,charles ,walker died in #ahdb4 ,many of his workers returned to ,england2#abca the stimulus of constant supervision was gone2 old designs deteriorated from inferior copying1 and new designs were not forthcoming4 ,it was mainly due to the ,convent of the ,good ,shepherd that this lace industry was saved from absolute extinction4 ,mrs4 ,r4 ,v4 ,o',brien has1 however1 done valuable service in its revival by her energy in establishing and maintaining the ,limerick lace training school1 which may be said to owe its origin to a lecture delivered by ,mr4 ,alan ,s4 ,cole at the ,limerick ,chamber of ,commerce in ,september1 #ahhh1 where photographs of ancient and modern lace and a loan collection of ,limerick lace was shown4 ,in this collection the work of the early days of ,limerick1 when the design was of the highest order1 was contrasted with the more modern specimens4#abcb ,the first attempt to adapt the point de ,venise to the necessities of the ,irish people was made at ,tynan1 in ,co4 ,armagh1 on the borders of ,tyrone4 ,mrs4 ,maclean1 the wife of the ,rev4 ,william ,maclean1 then rector of the parish1 was the owner of some old point de ,venise1 and she resolved to turn her collection to some practical use4 ,the lace was examined and re-examined1 until the secret workings underlying every stitch1 every picot1 every filling1 and every relief1 had been grasped and understood4 ,steps were taken in #ahdi to teach the people this industry1 and by #ahea a handsome flounce was ready1 which was purchased by ,lord ,john ,george ,beresford1 then ,archbishop of ,armagh and ,primate of ,ireland4 ,it was exhibited at the great exhibition of that year in ,london1 and attracted a large amount of attention1 and brought many orders in its train4 ,the business was thus considerably extended and enlarged1 and the ,primate and his nieces1 ,mrs4 ,eden and ,mrs4 ,dunbar1 did all they could to promote the sale of the work4 ,the good fortune and prosperity of ,tynan was1 however1 but of a temporary character4 ,the ,rev4 ,william ,maclean died in #ahfe1 and1 with his death1 the local industry died out from want of supervision and organisation4 ,,plate ,,xci4 ,illustration3 ,,irish1 ,,carrickmacross4 ,,insertion ,,and ,,border ,,of ,,appliqu ,,lace1 made at the ,bath and ,shirley ,schools4 ,end of nineteenth century4 ,width of insertion1 #f in42 border1 #i in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,,plate ,,xcii4 ,illustration3 ,,irish4 ,,limerick ,,lace4 ,,tambour ,,embroidery ,,on ,,net1 made at ,kinsale4 ,end of nineteenth century4 ,width1 #ag in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #ddb4 #ddc;,irish point#abcc also owes its genesis to the failure of the potato crop in #ahdf1 and its original inspiration was given by a piece of point de ,milan which fell into the hands of ,mother ,mary ,ann ,smith1 of the ,presentation ,convent at ,youghal1 ,co4 ,cork4 ,she there conceived the idea of setting up an industry for the children attending the convent school4 ,she studied the lace which had come into her possession1 examined the process by which it had been made1 unravelled the threads one by one1 and at last succeeded in mastering its many details4 ,she then selected some of the convent children who had shown a taste for fine needlework1 and taught them separately what she herself learned4 ,the convent school was opened in #aheb4 ,the main characteristic of this lace is that it is worked entirely with the needle4 ,though ,irish point lace owes its origin to ,youghal ,convent1 its workers have done much to spread their art in other parts of ,ireland1 and in few districts more effectually than in the neighbourhood of ,kenmare1 ,co4 ,kerry1 where the late ,mother ,abbess ,o',hagan introduced the industry into the ,convent of the ,poor ,clares in #ahfa4 ,the work is #ddd;based upon the same lines1 though the ,kenmare work claims as its speciality that it is entirely worked in linen thread1 while at ,youghal cotton is occasionally used4 ,the ,convent of the ,poor ,clares devote themselves chiefly to the production of flat point1 appliqu1 and guipure laces4 ,many other convents and lace centres in ,ireland have had their teachers from ,youghal and ,kenmare4 ,flat point has been made for fifty years under the supervision of the ,carmelite convent at ,new ,ross1 ,co4 ,wexford1 though the workers are now better known for their adaptation of ,venetian rose point and the perfection to which they have brought their crochet than for their plain ,irish point4 ,for the first ten years the ,carmelite nuns confined their attention to cut-work1 flat point1 and net lace4 ,as the workers grew more expert1 a heavy rose point was introduced4 ,this style proved too heavy for the fashion2 hence it was that1 in #ahfe1 the nuns turned their attention to finer work4 ,it was about that time that a travelling ,jewish pedlar called at the convent with a miscellaneous assortment of antique vestments1 old books1 and other curiosities1 among which were some broken pieces of old rose point lace4 ,the then ,prioress1 the late ,mother ,augustine ,dalton1 purchased the specimens from the ,jew1 as she realised that they would give her the opportunity she wanted of varying the quality of the lace1 and making the design finer and lighter in the future than it had been in the past4 ,for weeks and for months she devoted herself to the task of ripping up portions1 stitch by stitch1 until she had mastered every detail4 ,from this time dates the production of that fine rose point for which the convent at ,new ,ross has deservedly earned so high a reputation4 ,this rose point has gone on increasing in fineness of quality and in beauty of design4 ,the defects in the earlier specimens were mainly due to the want of artistic culture in the girls1 who could neither appreciate nor render the graceful sweeps and curves1 nor the branching stems4 ,irish crochet is another widespread national industry4 ,its main centres have been ,cork in the ,south and ,monaghan in the ,north of ,ireland4 ,the industry can be traced as far back as #ahde1 when the sisters of the ,ursuline convent at ,blackrock1 ,co4 ,cork1 received #ij for the work done by the poor children in their schools4 ,it may indeed be said that #ddethe growth of this great industry spread from this centre2 so much so1 that within the space of a few years it formed part of the educational system of almost every convent in the land1 and spread from the southern shores of ,co4 ,cork to ,wexford1 to ,monaghan and to ,sligo4 ,cork ,city was itself the natural centre of the industry1 which extended so far and wide through the country that some thirty years ago there were no less than #ab1jjj women in the neighbourhood of ,cork engaged in making crochet1 lace collars1 and edgings after ,spanish and ,venetian patterns4 ,on the outbreak of the ,franco-,german war a further impetus was given to the industry1 when the supply of ,continental laces was cut off4 ,several years of unique prosperity followed1 until the competition of the machine-made work of ,nottingham and ,switzerland ousted the ,irish crochet from the market4 ,at the present there has been a reaction against the usurpation by machinery of the place that art ought to occupy1 and the ,cork work is now once more coming to the fore4 ,as ,cork has been the centre on the ,south1 so is ,clones in the ,north1 and yet the industry which has for so many years done so much for the people of ,monaghan owes its origin to the philanthropic efforts of ,mrs4 ,w4 ,c4 ,roberts1 of ,thornton1 ,co4 ,kildare1 who helped the poor to ward off the worst attacks of the famine of #ahdg by the production of guipure and point de ,venise crochet4 ,after a few years of prosperity1 the industry languished and disappeared from the neighbourhood1 but twenty-four of the best-trained and most efficient of ,mrs4 ,roberts's workers were sent out to other centres4 ,one of these came to ,mrs4 ,hand1 the wife of the then ,rector of ,clones4 ,this parish is the biggest in the county1 and the poor from the surrounding mountains flocked down to learn the crochet2 and knotted and lifted as well as ordinary guipure1 ,greek and ,spanish1 and also ,jesuit lace#abcd has been produced with the crochet-needle in ,clones1 which still continues to be the most important centre of the industry4 ,at the ,killarney ,presentation ,convent at ,newton ,barry1#abce and ,cappoquin1 drawn linen work in the style of #ddfthe ,italian reticella1 and at ,parsonstown pillow laces of the same character as ,honiton are made4 ,in ,ardee1 a novel lace is made with braid and cord4#abcf ,the rose point lace is often called ,innishmacsaint from the village in the county of ,fermanagh where the industry was transplanted on the death of the ,rev4 ,w4 ,maclean1 of ,tynan1 by his daughter1 who went to live with her sister1 ,mrs4 ,george ,tottenham1 the wife of the rector4 ,what was ,tynan's misfortune proved a boon to ,innishmacsaint1 and it became the chief centre of the ,irish rose point industry4 ,both the heavier and finer kinds are made there4 ,as at ,tynan1 the art of making the lace has been learnt by the unravelling and close examination of ,venetian point4 ,as in ,english work1 some of the ,irish is spoilt by the woolly cotton thread4 ,foreign lace likewise in these days suffers from the same fault4 ,the workmanship at the present time can be so good that every effort ought to be made to use only fine silky linen thread4 ,in ,ireland1 where flax can be grown1 there should be no excuse for employing any other4 ,,plate ,,xciii4 ,illustration3 ,,irish4 ,,crochet ,,lace4--,end of nineteenth century4 ,width of cuff1 #e in42 length of plastron1 #ab in4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 ,to face page #ddf4 #ddg;,,chapter ,,xxxvi4 ,,bobbin ,,net ,,and ,,machine-,,made ,,lace4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afb4 ,,arms ,,of ,,the ,,frame-,,work ,,knitters' ,,company4 ,,bobbin ,,net4 ,a sketch of the history of lace would be incomplete without a few words on bobbin net and machine lace1 manufactures which have risen to so much importance both in ,england and ,france1 and have placed lace within the reach of all classes of society4 ,the subject has been so ably treated by ,mr4 ,felkin that we refer our readers to his excellent work for its full history4#abcg ,this manufacture has its epochs3-- #agfh4 ,net first made by machinery4 #ahji4 ,invention of bobbin net4 #ahcg4 ,the ,jacquard system applied to the bobbin net machine4 ,it has been already told how ,barbara ,uttmann made a plain thread net in ,germany three centuries before any attempt was made to produce it by machinery4#abch ,this invention is usually assigned to ,hammond1 a stocking framework knitter of ,nottingham1 who1 examining one day the broad lace on his wife's cap1 thought he could #ddh;apply his machine to the production of a similar article4#abci ,his attempt so far succeeded that1 by means of the stocking-frame invented the previous century1#abdj he produced1 #agfh1 not lace1 but a kind of knitting1 of running loops or stitches1 like that afterwards known as ,brussels ground4 ,in #aggg1 ,else and ,harvey introduced at ,nottingham the pin or point net machine1 so named because made on sharp pins or points4 ,point net was afterwards improved1 and the barleycorn introduced3 square and spider net appear in succession4 ,but with all these improvements machinery had not yet arrived at producing a solid net1 it was still only knitting1 a single thread passing from one end of the frame to the other2 and if a thread broke the work was unravelled2 the threads1 therefore1 required to be gummed together1 to give stiffness and solidity to the net4 ,to remedy this evil1 the warp or chain machine was invented1 uniting the knitter's and the weaver's mechanism4 ,vandyke1#abda a ,flemish workman1 and three ,englishmen dispute the invention4 ,this new machine was again improved and made ,mechlin net1 from which the machine took its name4 ,for forty years from ,hammond's first attempt on the stocking-frame1 endless efforts were made to arrive at imitating the ground of pillow lace1 and there are few manufactures in which so much capital has been expended1 and so much invention called forth4 ,each projector fancied #ddi;he had discovered the true stitch1 and patents after patents were taken out1 resulting mostly in disappointment4 ,the machine for making bobbin net was invented by ,john ,heathcoat1 son of a farmer at ,longwhatton 7,leicestershire74 ,after serving his apprenticeship he settled at ,nottingham1 and while occupied in putting together stocking and net machines1 gave his attention to improving the ,mechlin net frame4#abdb ,in #ahji1 in conjunction with ,mr4 ,lacy1 he took out a patent for fourteen years for his new and highly ingenious bobbin net machine1 which he called ,old ,loughborough1 after the town to which he then removed4 ,bobbin net was so named because the threads are wound upon bobbins4#abdc ,it was twisted instead of looped net4 ,heathcoat began by making net little more than an inch in width1#abdd and afterwards succeeded in producing it a yard wide4 ,there are now machines which make it three yards and a half in width4#abde ,in #ahaa that vandal association called the ,luddites#abdf entered his manufactory and destroyed twenty-seven of his machines1 of the value of #h1jjj4 ,indignant at their conduct he removed to ,tiverton1#abdg in ,devonshire4 #dej;,in #ahah the first power machines were put to work1 and the year #ahbc is memorable for the bobbin net fever4 ,mr4 ,heathcoat's patent having expired1 all ,nottingham went mad4 ,everyone wished to make bobbin net4 ,numerous individuals1 clergymen1 lawyers1 doctors1 and others1 readily embarked capital in so tempting a speculation4 ,prices fell in proportion as production increased2 but the demand was immense1 and the ,nottingham lace frame became the organ of general supply1 rivalling and supplanting in plain nets the most finished productions of ,france and the ,netherlands4#abdh ,dr4 ,ure says3 ,it was no uncommon thing for an artisan to leave his usual calling and betake himself to a lace frame1 of which he was part proprietor1 and realize1 by working upon it1 twenty1 thirty1 nay1 even forty shillings a day4 ,in consequence of such wonderful gains1 ,nottingham1 with ,loughborough and the adjoining villages1 became the scene of an epidemic mania4 ,many1 though nearly void of mechanical genius or the constructive talent1 tormented themselves night and day with projects of bobbins1 pushers1 lockers1 point-bars1 and needles of every various form1 till their minds got permanently bewildered4 ,several lost their senses altogether1 and some1 after cherishing visions of wealth as in the olden time of alchemy1 finding their schemes abortive1 sank into despair and committed suicide4 ,such is the history of the bobbin net#abdi invention in ,england4#abej #dea,we now pass on to ,,france4 ,to the great trading nation1 to the great manufacturing nation1 no progress which any portion of the human race can make in knowledge1 in taste for the conveniences of life1 or in the wealth by which these conveniences are produced1 can be matter of indifference4--,macaulay4 ,since the failure#abea of ,lee1 in #afaj1 to introduce the stocking-frame into ,france1 that country remained ignorant of a manufacture which was daily progressing in ,england1 on whom she was dependent for stockings and for net4 ,in #aggh ,caillen attempted a kind of net tricot dentelle1 for which he obtained a gratuity from the ,academy of #dj1 but his method did not succeed2 it was1 like the first efforts of our countrymen1 only knitting4 ,in #aghd ,louis ,,xvi4 sent the ,duke de ,liancourt to ,england to study the improvements in the stocking and net machinery1 and to bring back a frame4 ,he was accompanied by ,rhumbolt1 who worked in a manufactory at ,nottingham1 and having acquired the art1 returned to ,france4 ,monarchy had fallen1 but the ,french ,republic1 #agic-d1 granted ,rhumbolt the sum of #aaj1jjj francs 7#d1djj74 ,the machine he brought with him was the point net4#abeb ,the cessation of all commercial intercourse prevented ,france from keeping pace with the improvements making in ,england2 yet1 singularly enough1 at the beginning of the nineteenth century more net was manufactured in ,france than in ,england4 ,at the time of the ,peace of ,amiens 7#ahjb7 there were #b1jjj frames in ,lyons and ,nmes1 while there were scarcely #a1bjj in ,england2 but the superiority of the ,english net was incontestable1 so1 to protect the national manufacture1 ,napoleon prohibited the importation4 ,this of course increased its demand2 the net was in request in proportion as it was prohibited4 ,the best mart for ,nottingham was the ,french market1 so the ,nottingham net trade took every means to pass their produce into ,france4 #deb;,hayne1 one of the proprietors of the barley-corn net1 had gone to ,paris to make arrangements for smuggling it over1 when the war broke out1 and he was detained4 ,napoleon proposed that he should set up a machine in ,france2 but he preferred continuing his illicit trade1 which he carried on with great success until #ahji1 when his own agent informed against him1 his goods were seized and burned1 and having in one seizure lost #fj1jjj 7#a1ejj1jjj fr471 he was completely ruined1 and fled to ,england4#abec ,the ,french manufacturers took out various patents for the improvement of their ,mechlin machines1 and one was taken1 in #ahji1 for making a crossed net called fond de glace2 but the same year ,heathcoat producing the bobbin net machine1 the inventors could not sustain the competition4 ,every attempt was made to get over bobbin net machines2 but the export of ,english machinery was punished by transportation1 and the ,nottingham manufacturers established at their own expense a line of surveillance to prevent the bobbin net machines from going out4 ,in spite of all these precautions1 ,cutts1 an old workman of ,heathcoat's1 contrived to elude their vigilance1 and1 in #ahae1 to import a machine to ,valenciennes1 whence he removed it to ,douai1 where he entered into partnership with ,m4 ,thomassin4 ,in #ahaf they produced the first bobbin net dress made in ,france4 ,it was embroidered by hand by a workwoman of ,douai1 and presented by the makers to the ,duchesse d',angoulme4 ,about the end of the year #ahaf ,james ,clark introduced a machine into ,calais1 which he passed in pieces by means of some ,french sailors4 ,these two were the first bobbin net machines set up in ,france4 ,it is not within our limits to follow the ,calais lace manufacturers through their progress2 suffice it to say that it was in #ahag that the first bobbin net machine worked1 concealed from all eyes1 at ,saint-,pierre-lez-,calais1 now1 if not the rival of ,nottingham1 at least the great #dec;centre of the bobbin net and machinery lace manufactures in ,france4#abed ,st4 ,quentin1 ,douai1 ,cambrai1 ,rouen1 ,caen1 have all in turn been the seats of the tulle manufacture4 ,some of these fabrics are extinct2 the others have a very limited trade compared with ,saint-,pierre and ,lyons4 ,at ,lyons silk net is mostly made4#abee ,dating from #agia1 various patents have been taken out for its manufacture4 ,these silk nets were embroidered at ,condrieu 7,rhne71 and were 7the black especially for veils and mantles7 much esteemed1 particularly in ,spain4 ,in #ahbe the tulle bobine grenadine1 black and white1 was brought out by ,m4 ,doguin1 who afterwards used the fine silks1 and invented that popular material first called zephyr1 since illusion4 ,his son1 in #ahch1 brought out the tulle ,bruxelles4 ,,belgium4 ,in #ahcdabef eight bobbin net machines were set up in ,brussels by ,mr4 ,washer1 for the purpose of making the double and triple twisted net1 upon which the pillow flowers are sewn to produce the ,brussels application lace4 ,mr4 ,washer devoted himself exclusively to the making of the extra fine mesh1 training up workmen specially to this minute work4 ,in a few years he succeeded in excelling the ,english manufacture2 and this net1 universally known as ,brussels net1 has nearly superseded the expensive pillow ground1 and has thereby materially decreased the price of ,brussels lace4 ,it is made of ,english cotton1 stated1 in the specimens exhibited in #ahfg1 as costing #dd per pound4 #ded,,machinery ,,lace4 ,qui sait si le mtier tulle ne sera pas un jour1 en quelque sorte1 un vrai coussin de dentellire1 et les bobines de vritables fuseaux manoeuvrs par des mains mcaniques4--,aubry1 in #ahea4 ,if ,england boasts the invention of bobbin net1 to ,france must be assigned the application of the ,jacquard system to the net-frame1 and consequently the invention of machinery lace4 ,shawls and large pieces in run lace1 as it is termed1 had previously been made after this manner at ,nottingham and ,derby4 ,the pattern proposed to be run in is printed by means of engraved wood blocks on the ground1 which1 if white1 is of cotton2 if black1 of silk4 ,the ground is stretched on a frame2 the lace-runner places her left hand under the net1 and with the right works the pattern4 ,the filling up of the interior is termed either fining or open-working1 as the original meshes of the net are brought to a smaller or larger size by the needle4#abeg ,in #ahbj ,symes1 of ,nottingham1 invented a pattern which he called ,grecian net4 ,this was followed by the spot1 or point d'esprit1 and various other fancy nets--bullet-hole1 tattings1 and others4 ,the ,jacquard system had been used at ,lyons with the ,mechlin frame in #ahbc-d for making patterned net and embroidered blondes4 ,this suggested the possibility of applying the ,jacquard cards to making lace1 and in #ahcf to #ahch ,mr4 ,ferguson1#abeh by applying it to the circular bobbin net frame1 brought out the black silk net called dentelle de ,cambrai1 an imitation of ,chantilly4 ,the pattern was woven by the machine1 the brod or relief run in4 ,various patents#abei were immediately taken out in ,england and ,france4 ,nottingham and ,saint-,pierre-lez-,calais rival #dee;each other in the variety of their productions4 ,at the ,international ,exhibition of #ahfg ,nottingham exhibited ,spanish laces1 most faithful copies of the costly pillow-made ,barcelona2 imitations of ,mechlin1 the brod and picot executed by hand2 ,brussels needle-point2 ,caen blondes1 and ,valenciennes rivalling those of ,calais2 also ,cluny and the black laces of ,chantilly and ,mirecourt4 ,the ,french1 by adopting what is technically termed eight motives1 produce their lace of a finer make and more complex pattern4 ,the ,calais lace is an admirable copy of the square-grounded ,valenciennes1 and is the staple trade of the manufacture4 ,calais also produces blondes1 black and white1 silver and gold1 the white nearly approaching in brilliancy and whiteness the famed productions of ,caen1 which1 by their cheapness1 they have expelled from competition4 ,she also imitates the woollen laces of ,le ,puy1 together with black and white laces innumerable4 ,broadly speaking1 lace-making by machinery is more nearly like the pillow lace-making process than that of needle-point4 ,the machine continues to twist any desired threads around one another4 ,in pillow lace-making1 besides twisting1 we have plaiting1 and this plaiting has not been reproduced by the majority of lace machines4 ,quite recently1 however1 a ,french machine1 called the ',dentellire1' has been invented to do the plaiting4 ,a description of this machine has been published in ,la ,nature 7,march #crd1 #ahha74 ,whilst the ordinary lace-making machine belongs to the family of weaving machines1 the ,dentellire more nearly resembles the pillow of a lace-worker with the threads arranged over the pillow4 ,in general appearance it looks something like a large semicircular frame-work of iron--with thousands of threads from the outer semicircle converging to the centre1 representing the table or pillow4 ,over this central table is the apparatus which holds the end threads side by side1 and which regulates the plaiting of them4 ,the cost of producing lace in this manner is said to be greater at present than by hand4#abfj #def;,almost every description of lace is now fabricated by machinery2#abfa and it is often no easy task1 even for a practised eye1 to detect the difference4 ,still1 we must ever be of opinion that the most finished productions of the frame never possess the touch1 the finish1 or the beauty of the laces made by hand4 ,the invention of machine-made lace has this peculiarity--it has not diminished the demand for the finer fabrics of the pillow and the needle4 ,on the contrary1 the rich have sought more eagerly than ever the exquisite works of ,brussels and ,alenon1 since machinery has brought the wearing of lace within the reach of all classes of society4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afc4 ,,the ,,lagetta1 ,,or ,,lace-,,bark ,,tree4 ,the inner bark of the ,lagetta1 or ,lace-bark tree#abfb of ,jamaica1 may be separated into thin layers1 and then into distinct meshes1 bearing some resemblance to lace 7,fig4 #afc74 ,of this material a cravat and ruffles were presented to ,king ,charles ,,ii4 by the ,governor of ,jamaica2 and at the ,exhibition of #ahea a dress of the same fibre was presented to ,queen ,victoria1 which her ,majesty was graciously pleased to accept4 #deg;,caterpillars have been made to spin lace veils by the ingenious contrivance of a gentleman of ,munich4#abfc ,these veils are not strong1 but surprisingly light--one1 a yard square1 would scarcely weigh five grains1 whilst a patent net veil of the same size weighs #bfb4 ,asbestos has also been woven into lace3 and a specimen of this mineral lace is1 we have been told1 in the ,cabinet of ,natural ,history at the ,garden of ,plants1 ,paris4 #dei;,,appendix4 ,the ,notes marked with an 99 show that the works referred to have been examined by the ,author4#abfd #a4 ,sidenote3 #aebg4 ,cologne4 ,p4 ,quentell4 ,eyn new kunstlich boich1 dair yn4 ,c4 vnd4 xxxviij4 figuren1 monster ad' stalen befonden1 wie man na der rechter art1 ,lauffer werck1 ,spansche stich1 mit der nlen1 vort vp der ,ramen1 vnd vp der laden1 borden wirckenn sall1 wilche stalen all etzo samen verbessert synt1 vnd vyl kunstlicher gemacht1 da dye eirsten1 c4 ,sere nutzlich allen wapen sticker1 frauwen1 ionfferen1 vnd met ger1 dair uns solch kunst lichtlich tzu leren4 ,d ,gedruckt tzu ,collen vp dem ,doemhoff dwrch ,peter ,quentell4 ,anno4 ,m4 ,d4 ,,xxxvjj4#abfe ,small #hvo1 #bb ff41 #db plates4 ,title in ,gothic letters2 beneath1 woodcuts representing women at work4 ,on the back of the leaf1 a large escutcheon1 the three crowns of ,cologne in chief2 supporters1 a lion and a griffin4 ,below1 ,o ,foelix ,colonia4 #aebg4 ,the patterns consist of medival and arabesque borders1 alphabets1 etc41 some on white1 others on black grounds4 ,some with counted stitches4 ,quentell refers to a previous edition4 ,brunet and the ,marquis d',adda mention a copy1 #aebi1 with the portrait of ,charles ,v41 and a second edition #aecb4 #b4 ,sidenote3 #aebg4 ,cologne4 ,p4 ,quinty4 ,liure noveau et subtil touchant lart et sciece tant de brouderie fronssures1 tapisseries come aultres mestiers quo fait alesguille1 soit au petit mestier1 aultelisse ou sur toille clere1 tresvtile et necessaire a toutes1 gens usans des mestiers et ars #dfj;dessuld1 ou semblables1 ou il y ha ,c4 et4 xxxviij patrons de diuers ouvraiges faich per art et proportion4 ,en primere a culoge 7,cologne7 par matrepiere quinty demorat denpre leglie de iii roies4#abff ,the same cut as the preceding1 with the arms of ,cologne1 which seems to have been engraved for a great ,bible printed by ,quentell1 in #aebg1 and is no guide for the date4 ,figs4 #afd1 #afe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afd4 ,,metre ,p4 ,,quinty4--,cologne1 #aebg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afe4 ,,metre ,p4 ,,quinty4--,cologne1 #aebg4 #c4 ,sidenote3 #aecj4 ,venice4 ,a4 ,taglienti ,opera nuova che insegna a le ,done a cuscire3 a raccamare3 e a disegnar a ciascuno3 ,et la ditta opera sara di grande utilita ad ogni artista3 per esser il disegno ad ogniuno necessario3 la qual e ititolata esempio di racami4#abfg #dto1 #bc ff41 #cf plates4 ,title in red ,gothic letters2 beneath four woodcuts representing women at work4 ,two pages of dedication to the ladies1 by ,giovanni ,antonio ,taglienti1 in which he says his book is for the instruction of each valorosa donna tutte altre donzelle1 con gli huomini insieme fanciulli1 liquali si dilettarano de imparar a disegnar1 cuscir1 raccammar4 #dfa,then follows a most miscellaneous collection of what he terms1 in his dedication1 fregi1 frisi1 tondi maravigliosi1 groppi moreschi et arabeschi1 ucelli volanti1 fiori1 lettere antique1 maiuscoli1 le francesche1 etc41 three pages very much like the pictures in a child's spelling book1 rounds 7tondi7 for cushions1 and two pages representing hearts and scrolls2 hearts transfixed1 one with an arrow1 another with a sword1 a third torn open by two hands1 motto on the scroll3-- ,la virt1 al huomo sempre li resta ,n morte nol p privar di questa4 ,on the other page hearts transfixed by two arrows1 with two eyes above3 ,occhi piangete accompagnete il core4 ,inclita virtus4 ,then follow six pages of instructions1 from which we learn the various stitches in which these wonderful patterns may be executed1 damaschino1 rilevato1 a filo1 sopra punto1 ingaseato1 ,ciprioto1 croceato1 pugliese1 scritto1 incroceato1 in aere1 fatto su la rate1 a magliata1 desfilato1 di racammo1 to be sewn in various coloured silks1 gold and silver thread1 or black silk1 for collari di huomo di donna1 camisciole con pettorali1 frisi di contorni di letti1 entemelle di cuscini1 frisi di alcun boccassino1 scufie1 etc4 ,on the last page1 ,stampa in ,vineggia per ,giovan ,antonio ,tagliente i ,fratelli de ,sabbio4 #aecj4 ,brunet gives an edition dated #aebh4 #d4 ,sidenote3 #aecj4 ,paris ,f4 ,pelegrin4 ,la fleur de la science de pourtraicture et patrons de broderie4 ,facon arabicque1 et ytalique4 ,cum priviligio regis4 ,frontispiece4 ,title in ,gothic letters4 ,a large figure of ,sol 7871 with a yoke1 his feet chained1 a ball1 maybe the ,earth1 at the end of the chain4 ,in one hand he holds a scroll with the legend1 ,exitus acta probat4 ,privilege of ,francoys par la grace de ,dieu roy de ,france1 to ,francisque pelegrin de ,florence1 to publish ung livre de fueillages1 entrelatz et ouvraiges moresques1 et ,damasquins1 for six years4 ,done a bordeaulx le xvii4 jour de ,juing4 ,l'an de grace mil cinq cens trete ,et de nostre regne le seiziesme4 ,ce present livre a este imprime a paris par jaques nyverd4 ,le iv4 jour daoust4 ,lan de grace mil cinq ces xxx4 ,pour noble home messire ,francisque ,pelegrin de florence4 ,on les vend a paris ,en la grant rue sainct ,anthoyne devant les tournelles4 ,au logis de monseigneur le comte de ,carpes4 ,par messire ,fracisque pelegrin de florence4#abfh ,small fol41 #fb ff41 #eh plates1 consisting of graceful moresque patterns1 no animals or natural objects represented4 ,at plate #cc1 surrounded by arabesques1 is an ,n1 the initial of the printer4 #e4 ,sidenote3 #aebi4 ,venice4 ,n4 ,zoppino4 ,esemplario di lavori3 dove le tenere fanciulle altre donne nobile potranno facilment imparare il modo ordine di lavorare1 cusire1 racamare1 finalmente far tutte quelle gentillezze lodevoli opere1 le quali p fare una donna virtuosa con laco in #dfbmano1 con li suoi compasse misure4 ,vinezia1 per ,nicolo ,d',aristotile detto ,zoppino ,,mdxxix4 #hvo4#abfi #df plates4 ,the ,cavre ,merli quotes another edition1 date #aecj1 in the possession of the ,avvocato ,francesco ,pianesani1 and another he believes of #aebi4 #f4 ,sidenote3 #aecb4 ,venice4 ,n4 ,zoppino4 ,convivio delle belle ,donne1 dove con li4 ,nuovi raccami1 c4 ,in fine3 ,finisce il convivio delle1 c4 ,nuovamente stampato in ,vinegia1 per ,nicolo d',aristotile1 detto ,zoppino del mese d',agosto4 ,,mdxxxii4 ,in #dto1 ff4 #bd4abgj #g4 ,sidenote3 #aecg4 ,venice4 ,n4 ,zoppino4 ,gli universali de i belli ,recami antichi1 et moderni1 ne i quali un pellegrino ingegno1 si di huomo come di donna potra in questa nostra eta con l'ago vertuosamente esercitar si4 ,non ancora da alcuni dati altri inluce4 ,frontispiece1 two ladies at work2 dedication to gli virtuosi ,giovani et gentilissime ,fanciulle4 ,at the end styles himself ,nicolo d',aristotile detto ,zoppino4 ,march1 #aecg4 ,in #dto1 ff4 #be1 printed on both sides4#abga #h4 ,sidenote3 #aecd4 ,augsburg4 ,schartzemberger4 ,ain ,new ,formbchlin bin ich gnandt ,allen ,knstlern noch unbekandt ,sih mich 7lieber kauffer7 recht an1 ,findst drefftlich in diser kunff stan ,schon gschnierlet1 gebglet1 auf gladt1 ,und gold1 auch schon von premen stadt1 ,es gibt dir ain prem unb ain kledyt4 ,wenn mans recht aussainander schneydt1 ,das kanst schneyden auss der ,ellen1 ,von ,samat1 ,seyden1 wie manss wolle1 ,ich mag braucht wern in allem landt1 ,wen man mich ersucht mit verstandt4 7,at the end47 ,gedruckt in der ,kaiserlichen ,riechstatt1 ,augspurg1 durch ,johan ,schartzemberger4 ,fomschneyder4 #aecd4abgb ,small obl41 #bj ff41 #ch plates4 ,frontispiece4 ,title in black ,gothic letters1 at the foot three subjects of women at work1 printed in red4 ,the patterns1 consisting of graceful arabesque borders1 are also in red 7,figs4 #aff1 #afg1 #afh74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aff4 ,,pattern ,,book4--,augsburg1 #aecd4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afg4 ,,pattern ,,book4--,augsburg1 #aecd4 ,to face page #dfb4 #dfc;,illustration3 ,fig4 #afh4 ,,augsburg4 #aecd4 #i4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,antwerp4 ,w4 ,vorsterman4 ,a neawe treatys3 as cocernynge the excellency of the nedle worcke spnisshe stitche and weavynge in the frame1 very necessary to al theym wiche desyre the perfect knowledge of seamstry1 quiltinge and brodry worke1 cteinynge an cxxxviij figures or tables1 so playnli made set tout in portrature1 the whiche is difficyll2 and natly for crafts me but also for gentleweme and ige damosels that therein may obtayne greater conynge delyte and pleasure4 ,these books be to sell at ,andwarp in the golden ,unycorne at ,willm ,vorstermans4 ,gheprent tot ,antwerpen in die camerstrate in den gulden eenhoren bey ,willem ,vorsterman4#abgc #hvo1 #bd ff41 #df plates4 ,title in ,gothic letters1 with figures4 ,p4 #a1 dorso3 ,woodcut of a woman at work and a man sitting by her side4 ,patterns medival1 small black squares1 arabesques1 etc4 ,vorsterman worked from #aead to #aedb4abgd #aj4 ,sidenote3 #aedb4 ,venice4 ,giardinetto novo di punti tagliati et gropposi1 per exercitio et ornamento delle donne4 ,ven4 #aedb1 in #dto4#abge #dfdaa4 ,sidenote3 #aedc4 ,venice4 ,esemplare che insegna alle donne el modo di cucire4 ,venetia1 #aedc4abgf #ab4 ,sidenote3 #aedd4 ,venice4 ,il ,specchio di pensiere 7sic71 delle belle donne dove si vede varie sorti di punti1 cio1 punti tagliati1 gropposi1 c4 ,venetia1 #aedd4 ,in #dto4#abgg #ac4 ,sidenote3 #aedd4 ,venice4 ,ornamento delle belle donne et virtuose3 ,opere in cui troverai varie sorti di frisi con li quali si potra ornar ciascun donna4 ,ven4 #aedd4abgh #ad4 ,sidenote3 #aedf4 ,paris4 ,gormont4 ,le livre de moresques1 tres utile et necessaire tous orfevres1 tailleurs1 graveurs1 painctres1 tapissiers1 brodeurs1 lingieres et femmes qui besongnent de l'aiguille4 ,paris4 ,gormont1 #aedf4 ,fig4 en bois4#abgi #ae4 ,sidenote3 #aedi4 ,lyon4 ,p4 de ,ste4 ,lucie4 ,la fleur des patrons de lingerie1 a deux endroitz1 a point croise1 a point couche1 et a point picque1 en fil dor1 fil darget1 fil de soye1 ou aultre en quelque ouvraige que ce soit1 en comprenant lart de broderie et tissuterie4 ,imprimees a ,lyon1 en la maison de ,pierre de saincte ,lucie 7dict le ,prince1 ,pres nostre ,dame de ,confort74#abhj 7,at the end47 ,imprim ,lyon par ,piarre de saincte ,lucie1 dict le ,prince4 #aedi4 #hvo1 #ab ff41 #ba plates4 ,frontispiece4 ,title in ,gothic letters1 with woodcuts representing people at work4 ,below1 two women sitting at frames2 above1 two others2 and between1 a man with a frame in his hand4 ,on each side a shield1 one with crowned heart1 on the other a lion1 three fleurs de lys in chief4 ,patterns medival4 ,at the end1 the device of the printer1 a mountain1 on the top of which is a city against which a youth is placing his hand3 motto1 ,spero4 ,at the foot of the mountain a cavern in which is seated a ,fury4 ,this device is engraved ,no4 #faf in ,silvestre1 who gives #aecj to #aeee as the date of ,pierre de ,saincte ,lucie4 #dfeaf4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,lyon4 ,p4 de ,ste4 ,lucie4 ,livre nouveau1 dict patrons de lingerie1 cest assavoir a deux endroitz1 a point croise1 point couche point picque1 en fil dor1 dargent1 de soye autres1 en quelque ouvrage que ce soit3 comprenant lart de ,broderie ,tissoterie4 ,imprimees a ,lyon1 chez ,pierre de ,saincte ,lucie1 pres nostre ,dame de ,confort4#abha #hvo1 #bd ff41 #dd plates4 ,frontispiece4 ,title in ,gothic letters2 the same shields as the preceding2 two women at work4 ,patterns medival4 ,at the end the same device4 ,the copy of the ,arsenal is a different impression4 ,instead of ,imprimees1 c1 we have1 ,on les vend1 etc4 #ag4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,lyon4 ,p4 de ,ste4 ,lucia4 ,patrons de diverses manieres ,inventez tressubtilement ,duysans a ,brodeurs et ,lingieres ,et a ceusy lesquelz vrayement ,veullent par bon entendement ,user ,dantique1 et ,roboesque1 ,frize et ,moderne proprement1 ,en comprenant aussi ,moresque4 ,a tous massons1 menuisiers1 verriers ,feront prouffit ces pourtraictz largement ,aux orpheures1 et gentilz tapissiers ,a ieunes gens aussi semblablement ,oublier point ne veuly auscunement ,cotrepointiers les tailleurs dymages ,et tissotiers lesquelz pareillement ,par ces patrons acquerront heritages4 ,imprimees a ,lyon1 par ,pierre de ,saincte ,lucie1 dict le ,prince1 pres nostre ,dame de ,confort4#abhb #hvo1 #af ff41 #ca plates4 ,title in ,gothic letters4 ,patterns medival4 ,the copy at the ,arsenal is a later impression4 ,on les vend a ,lyon1 par ,pierre de saincte ,lucie1 en la maison du deffunct ,prince1 pres1 etc4 ,it has only #ab ff41 and #bc plates4 #ah4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,lyon4 ,le ,prince4 ,sensuyuent lis patrons de messire ,antoine ,belin1 ,reclus de sainct ,martial de ,lyon4 ,item plusieurs autres beaulx ,patrons nouveaulx1 qui out este inventez par ,jeban ,mayol ,carme de ,lyon4 ,on les vend ,lyon1 chez le ,prince4#abhc #dff,small #hvo1 #f ff41 #he plates4 ,copy at the ,arsenal has #ab ff4 ,the same device of the printer in the frontispiece and at the end of the book4 ,finis4 ,one of the patterns represents ,st4 ,margaret holding the cross to a dragon1 but in these four books the designs are copied from each other1 and are many of them repetitions of ,quinty4 #ai4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,lyon4 ,d4 ,celle4 ,ce livre est plaisant et utile ,a gens qui besongnent de leguille ,pour comprendre legrement ,damoyselle bourgoyse ou fille ,femmes qui out l'esperit agille ,ne scauroint faillir nullement ,corrige est nouvellement ,dung honeste home par bon zelle ,son nom est ,dominicque ,celle ,qui a tous lecteurs shumylie ,domicille a en ,italie4 ,en ,thoulouse a prins sa naissance4 ,mise il a son intelligence ,a lamender subtillement ,taill il est totallement ,par ,jehan coste de rue merciere ,a ,lyon et consequemment ,quatre vingtz fassons a vrayement ,tous de differente maniere4#abhd #bh ff41 #bg plates4 ,title in ,gothic letters4 ,dedication to the ,reader1 in which it states the book is for the profit of tant hommes que femmes4 ,patterns medival4 ,at the end of the ,preface1 ,finis coronat opus4 #bj4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,venice4 ,g4 ,a4 ,vavassore4 ,esemplario di lavori3 che insegna alle done il modo e ordine di lavorare3 cusire3 e racmare3 e finalmete far tutte qlle opere degne di memoria3 lequale po fare una donna virtuosa con laco in mano4 ,et uno documento che insegna al copratore accio sia ben servito4#abhe ,in #hvo1 #be ff41 printed on both sides1 #dh plates4 ,title in red ,gothic characters1 framed round by six woodcuts similar to that of ,vorsterman2 at the foot1 fiorio ,vavasore fecit4 ,then follows the ,documento per el compratore1 and an ,address to ,ladies and ,readers1 by ,giovandrea ,vavassore detto ,guadagnino1 saying that he had already fatti alcuni libri di esempli di diverse sorte4 ,there is no date to this copy2 but in the library of ,prince ,messimo1 at ,rome1 is a copy dated ,venice1 #ah ,feb41 #aedf1 containing #ej plates2 and ,brunet quotes an edition1 ,stampato in ,vinezia1 #aeef2 ,cav4 ,merli also possesses an edition of the same date4 ,mr4 ,e4 ,arnold has also a copy with the same date4 ,the patterns are medival1 on black grounds1 with counted stitches1 a large flower pot1 mermaid1 ,paschal lamb1 and a double plate representing ,orpheus playing to the beasts4 #dfgba4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,venice4 ,g4 ,a4 ,vavassore4 ,essemplario novo di pin di cento variate mostre di qualunque orte bellissime per cusire intitolato ,fontana di gli essempli4 ,oblong #hvo4 ,no date4 #af ff41 #bh plates4 ,in the frontispiece is a fountain with the motto1 ,solicitudo est mater divitiarum1 and on each side of the fountain-- ,donne donzelle ch ,per farvi eterne alla4 ,el cusir seguite ,fonte venite4 ,on the back of the frontispiece is the ,dedication1 headed1 ,il ,pelliciolo alla molta magnifica ,madona ,chiara ,lipomana2 the page finished by a sonnet2 in the last leaf1 ,avviso alle virtuose donne et a qualunque lettore ,giovanni ,andrea ,vavassore detto ,guadagnino4 ,says he has negli tempi passati fatto imprimere molto e varie sorte d'essemplari di mostre1 etc4 ,at the foot1 ,nuovamente stampato4#abhf ,this work is also described by ,count ,cicognara with the same title1 only with the date #aeej4 ,in the ,bibliotheca ,communitativa1 ,bologna1 is a copy of the same date4 ,in this last edition the author writes his name ,valvassore4 #bb4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,venice4 ,g4 ,a4 ,vavassore4 ,vavassore ,gio4 ,andrea4 ,opera nova ,universal intitulata corona di ricammi2 ,dove le venerande donne e fanciulle3 troverano di varie opere per fare colari di camisiola torniaenti di letti eternelle di cuscini boccasini schufioni3 cordlli di piu sorte2 et molte opere per recamatori per dipitore poreuesi3 7sic7 de lequale opere o vero esempli ciascuno le potra pore in opera secodo el suo bisogno3 con gratia novamente stampata ne la inclita citta di vineggia per ,giovanni ,andrea ,vavassore detto ,guadagnio4 #cf pp41 sm4 #dto4 #ac ff41 #eb designs1 none of which are repetitions of the preceding4#abhg #bc4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,venice4 ,g4 ,a4 ,vavassore4 ,vavassore ,gio4 ,andrea detto ,guadagnino4 ,opera nova1 etc4 444 dove le venerande donne et fanciulle trovaranno di varie opere et molte opere per recamatori et per dipintori2 etc4 ,nuovamente stampata1 etc4#abhh ,quite a different collection from the preceding4 ,a little of everything in this volume4 ,zoan ,andrea ,vavassore was the pupil in drawing and engraving of ,andrea ,mantegna4 ,towards the beginning of the sixteenth century1 he worked on his own account1 and his engravings are much sought after4 ,so greedy was he of gain as to obtain for him the name of ,guadigno1 in ,venetian patois1 covetous4 ,he lived to a great age4 #dfhbd4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,a4 ,paganino4 ,libro questo di rechami per el quale se impara in diversi modi l'ordine e il modo de recamare1 cosa non mai pi fatta n' stata mostrata4 ,by ,alessandro ,paganino4#abhi #bj plates1 with a long explanation how these works are done4 7,communicated by ,prince ,massimo47 #be4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,paris ,vve4 ,ruelle4 ,patrons pour ,brodeurs1 ,lingieres1 ,massons1 ,verriers1 et autres gens d'esprit4 ,a ,paris4 ,pour la ,veuve ,jean ,ruelle1 rue ,s4 ,jacques1 l'enseigne ,sainct ,nicolas4#abij #dto1 #bc ff41 #cb plates of medival designs4 ,ornamented title-page4 #bf4 ,sidenote3 #aedh4 ,venice4 ,m4 ,pagan4 ,il specchio di pensieri delle belle et virtudiose donne1 dove si vede varie sorti di ,punti1 cio punti tagliati1 punti gropposi1 punti in rede1 et punti in ,stuora4 ,,mdxlviii4 ,stamp4 in ,venetia1 per ,mathio ,pagan in frezzaria1 in le case nove ,tien per insegna la fede4#abia #af ff4 #bg4 ,sidenote3 #aeea4 ,venice4 ,m4 ,pagan4 #a4 ,l'honesto ,essempio del vertuoso desiderio che hanno le donne di nobile ingegno circa lo imparare i punti tagliati e fogliami4 ,in ,venetia per ,mathio ,pagan in ,frezaria al segno della ,fedo1 ,m4,d4,l4#abib ,in the ,v4 and ,a4 ,museum is a copy dated #aeej4 #bh4 ,sidenote3 #aeea4 ,venice4 ,m4 ,pagan4 ,giardineto novo di ,punti tagliati et gropposi1 per esurcitio et ornamento delle donne4 ,at the end1 ,venetia1 ,mathio ,pagan in ,frezzaria1 in le case nove 7tien per insegna della ,fede7 ,,mdli4 ,dedication1 ,alla signora ,lucretia1 ,romana ,mathio ,pagan1 salute4#abic ,see also ,no4 #ch4 #bi4 ,sidenote3 #aeed4 ,dubois4 ,variarum protractionum quas vulgo ,maurusias vocant omnium antehac excusarum libellus longe copiasissimus pictoribus1 aurifabris1 polymilariis1 barbaricariis variisque id genus #dfi;artificibus etiam acu operantibus utilissimus nuncque primen in lucem editus anno #aeed4 ,balthazar ,sylvius 7,dubois7 fecit4 ,jo4 ,theodoret1 ,jo4 ,israel de ,bry excud4#abid ,in #dto1 ff4 #bc1 copperplate4 #cj4 ,sidenote3 #aeee4 ,padua4 ,fra ,hieronimo4 ,triompho di ,lavori a ,fogliami de i quali si puo far ponti in aere2 opera d' ,fra ,hieronimo da ,cividal di ,frioli1 de l',ordine de i ,servi di ,osservantia4 ,cum gratia et privileggio per anni xi4#abie ,obl4 #dto1 #ad ff41 #bb pl4 ,ornamental title-page4 ,on the top1 a female seated in a triumphal car drawn by unicorns1 with attendants4 ,on each side of the title are women teaching children to work4 ,p4 #a1 dorso4 ,dedication of the author1 ,alla ,magnifica ,illustre ,signora ,isabella ,contessa ,canossa1 whose ,immortal ,triompho is represented in the above woodcut4 ,fra ,hieronimo speaks of preparing pi alte e divine imprese4 ,then follow three pages of verses in terzette1 and p4 #c1 dorso1 the impresa of the printer1 a lion rampant1 holding a sword in his fore paws4 ,below1 ,in ,padou per ,jacobo ,fabriano1 ad instantia de ,fra ,hieronimo da ,cividal di ,frioli3 de l',ordine de i ,servi di ,osservantia #aeee4 #ca4 ,sidenote3 #aeef4 ,venice4 ,torello4 ,lucidario di ricami di ,guiseppe ,torello4 ,venezia1 #aeef4 ,in #dto4 #cb4 ,sidenote3 #aeef4 ,strasburg4 ,h4 ,hoffman4 ,new ,modelbch1 allen ,ngerin1 unnd ,sydenstickern sehr nutzlich z branch1 vor nye in ,druck aussgangen durch ,hans ,hoffman1 ,burger und formschneider zu ,strassburg4 ,at the end1 ,zu ,strassburg ,gedruckt am ,kommarckt durch ,jacob ,frlich4 #aeef4 #dto4#abif #dto4 ,a to ,g in fours4 7#bh leaves47 ,title printed in red and black4 ,on it a woodcut of two women1 one engaged in embroidery1 the other fringing her some stuff4 ,the last leaf 7,giiii47 has on the recto a woodcut of a woman at a frame1 the verso blank4 #cc4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,zurich4 ,c4 ,froschover4 ,nw ,modelbch1 allerley gattungen ,dntelschnr1 so diser zyt in hoch ,ttschlanden geng und brchig sind1 zu underricht jren ,leertchteren unnd allen anderen schurwirckeren zu ,zurych #dgjund wo die sind1 yetz nwlich zbereit1 und erstmals in truch verfergket durch ,r4 ,m4#abig ,no place or date1 but as appears1 both from the title and preface1 to be printed at ,zurich1 by ,christopher ,froschover4 ,the date probably from #aecj to #aedj4 #dto4 ,signatures ,a to ,f in fours4 #bd leaves4 ,on the title a woodcut of two women working at lace pillows4 #cd4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,frankfort4 ,modelbch ,welscher1 ,ober und ,niderlandischer ,arbait4 ,getruckt z ,franckfort4 ,no date1 but probably at least as early as #aecj4 #dto4 ,signatures ,a to ,d in fours4 #bj leaves4 ,title enclosed in an elegant woodcut border4 #ce4 ,sidenote3 #aecg4 ,frankfort4 ,c4 ,egenolffs4 ,modelbch1 von erhabener unnd flacher ,arbait1 ,auff der ,ramen1 ,laden1 und nach der ,zale4 ,getruckt zu ,franckfort1 ,bei ,christian ,egenolffs1 ,erben4 ,the date1 #aecg1 occurs on one of the patterns4 #dto4 ,,aa to ,,hh in fours4 #cb leaves4 ,title in a woodcut border4 #agh patterns4 #cf4 ,sidenote3 #aega4 ,frankfort on the ,mayn4 ,n4 ,baseus4 ,new ,modelbch4 ,von allerhandt ,art1 ,nehens und ,stickens1 jetzt mit viellerley ,welscher ,arbeyt1 ,mdel und ,stahlen1 allen ,steinmetzen1 ,seidenstickern und ,neterin1 sehr ntzlich und kunstlich1 von newem zugericht4 ,getruckt zu ,frankfurt am ,mayn1 #aega4 ,device and motto of ,nicolas ,baseus on title-page4 ,sm4 #dto4 7,library ,v4 and ,a4 ,museum47 #cg4 ,sidenote3 #aefh4 ,frankfort on the ,mayn4 ,n4 ,baseus4 ,das new ,modelbch1 c4 ,franckfurt am ,mayn1 #aefh1 #dto4 ,printer1 ,nicholas ,baseus1 ff4 #dj4 #ch4 ,sidenote3 #aefi4 ,frankfort on the ,mayn4 ,modelbch2 ,zweiter ,theil3 ,franckfurt am ,mayn1 #aefi4 #dto1 ff4 #dd4 ,nos4 #cf and #cg are cited by the ,marquis d',adda4 #dgaci4 ,sidenote3 #aeeh4 ,venice4 ,m4 ,pagan4 ,la ,gloria et l'honore de ponti tagliati et ponti in aere ,venezia per ,mathio ,pagan in ,frezzeria al segno della ,fede4 #aeeh4abih #af plates4 ,dedicated to ,vittoria ,farnese1 ,duchess of ,urbino4 #dj4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,venice4 ,il ,monte4 ,opera nova di recami intitolata il monte1 nella quale si ritrova varie1 diverse sorti di mostre1 di punti in aiere1 fogliami4 ,dove le belle virtuose ,donne protranno fare ogni sorte di lavoro1 accommodate alle vera forma misura grandezza1 che debbono essere ne mai piu per l'adietro da alcuno vedute4 ,opera non men bella che utile1 necessaria4#abii ,below1 the impresa of the printer1 an eagle with its young2 motto1 ,virtute parta sibi non tantum4 ,in ,venetia4 #dto1 #af ff41 #bi plates of bold scroll borders4 #da4 ,sidenote3 #aeei4 ,venice4 ,g4 ,a4 ,bindoni4 ,il ,monte 7libro secondo7 ,opera dove ogni bella donna potr fare ogni sorte di lavori cio colari1 fazzoletti1 maneghetti1 avertadure 7berthes71 c41 in ,venetia1 #aefj4acjj ,printer's mark and motto as ,no4 #ci3 afterwards the dedication dated #aeei1 ,vittoria da ,cordova ,gio4 ,ant4 ,bindoni1 in which he states ,ho preso arditamente di presentarvi questo secondo ,monte4 #dto4 ff4 #af4 #db4 ,sidenote3 #aeeh4 ,venice4 ,bellezze de recami et dessegni opera novo non men bella che utile1 e necessaria et non pi veduta in luce4 ,venezia1 #aeeh4acja ,ob4 #dto4 #bj plates of patterns4 #dc4 ,sidenote3 #aeeh4 ,venice4 ,i4 ,foresto4 ,lo ,splendore delle virtuose giovani con varie mostre di fogliami e punti in aere4 ,venezia4 ,per ,iseppo ,foresto in calle dell'acqua a ,s4 ,zulian all' insegno del ,pellegrino1 #aeeh4acjb #af plates4 #dgbdd4 ,sidenote3 #aeei4 ,venice4 ,trionfo di ,virt ,libro novo da cucir1 con fogliami1 ponti a fili1 ponti cruciati1 c4 ,venezia1 #aeei4acjc #af plates4 #de4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,burato4 ,consisting of four leaves1 with patterns of canvas 7tela chiara71 in squares1 for works in punta of various widths1 with instructions how to increase or diminish the patterns4 ,see ,,cutwork4 ,on the back of the last page is printed in large characters1 ,p4 ,alex4 ,pag4 7,paganinus74 ,benacensis ,f4 ,bena4 ,v4 ,v4#acjd #df4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,burato 444 con nova maestria1 gratiose donne1 novo artificio vi apporto4 ,a second edition without date4 #dto1 ff4 #ei2 frontispiece1 ladies at work1 verso1 ,triumph of ,fame4 ,four books of designs of great elegance and taste4 ,the ,marquis d',adda assigns them to ,vavassore4 #dg4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,a4 ,passerotti4 ,passerotti ,aurelio ,pittore ,bolognese dissegnatore e miniatore figlio di ,bartolommeo ,passerotti circa al #aefj4 ,libro ,primo di lavorieri alle molto illustre et virtuosissime gentildonne ,bolognesi4 ,libro secondo alle molto magnifici et virtuosissimi signori4#acje ,in fol4 obl4 #fg ff41 including two dedications and a frontispiece4 ,designs for embroidery1 etc41 drawn with a pen4 ,in the title-page of the first book is the device of a sunflower1 ,non san questi occhi volgere altrove4 #dh4 ,sidenote3 #aeeg4 ,venice4 ,le ,pompe4 ,opera nova di recami dove trovansi varie mostre di punto in aere4 ,venezia1 #aeeg4acjf ,probably an earlier impression of the following4 #dto1 ff4 #af4 #di4 ,sidenote3 #aeei4 ,le ,pompe1 opera nova nella quale si ritrovano varie1 diverse sorti di mostre1 per poter far ,cordelle over ,bindelle1 d' ,oro1 di ,seta1 di ,filo1 overo di altra cosa di ,dove le belle et virtuose donne potranno fare ogni sorte di lavoro1 cio merli di diverse sorte1 ,cavezzi1 ,colari1 ,maneghetti1 tutte quelle cose #dgc;che le piaceranno4 ,opera non men bella1 che utile1 necessaria4 ,e non pi veduta in luce4 #aeei4acjg ,below1 the same impresa of the eagle1 as in ,il ,monte1 ,nos4 #ci and #dj4 #hvo1 #af ff41 #cj plates4 ,a great variety of borders and indented patterns 7merli74 7,fig4 #afi47 ,si vendeno alla ,libraria della ,gatta4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afi4 ,,le ,,pompe1 #aeei4 ,in the ,cat4 d',estres is noted1 ,le ,pompe1 ,opera nella quale si retrovano diverse sorti di mostse per poter far cordelle1 ,bindelle1 d'oro di seta1 di filo4 #aeei1 fig4 ,probably the same work4 #ej4 ,sidenote3 #aefj4 ,venice4 ,le ,pompe1 ,libro secondo4 ,opera nuova nella quale si ritrovana varie e diverse sorti di ,mostre1 per poter fare ,cordelle1 ovver ,bindelle1 d',oro1 di ,seta1 di ,filo1 ovvero di altra cosa4 ,dove #dgdle belle virtuose ,donne potranno far ogni sorte di lavoro1 coi ,merli di diverse sorte1 ,cavezzi1 ,colari1 ,maneghetti tutte quelle cose che li piaceno4 ,opera hon men bello che utile necessaria e non pi veduta in luce4 ,impresa of the printer1 ,pegasus1 and below1 ,in ,venetia #aefj4 ,obl4 #hvo1 #af ff41 #bi plates4#acjh ,mrs4 ,stisted's copy is dated #aefb1 and there is one at ,vienna1 in the ,imperial ,library1 of the same date4 #ea4 ,sidenote3 #aefc4 ,venice4 ,j4 ,calepino4 ,splendore delle virtuose giovani dove si contengono molte1 varie mostre a fogliami cio punti in aere1 et punti tagliati1 bellissimi1 con tale arteficio1 che li punti tagliati serveno alli punti in aere4 ,et da quella ch' sopragasi far si possono1 medesimamente molte altre4 ,in ,venetia ,appresso ,jeronimo ,calepino1 #aefc4acji #hvo1 #bj ff41 #ce plates of scroll patterns in the style of ,il ,monte4 ,dedication ,alla molto honorata ,m4 ,anzola ingegniera succera mia digniss4 ,francesco ,calepino1 wishing1 he says1 to ristampare la presente opera1 he dedicates it to her4 ,in ,bib4 ,melzi1 ,milan1 a copy dated #aefg4 #eb4 ,sidenote3 #aefc4 ,venice4 ,j4 ,calepino4 ,lucidario di recami1 nel qual si contengono molte1 varie sorti di disegni4 ,a punti in aere et punti tagliati1 a fogliami1 con figure di pi altre maniere1 come al presente si usano non pi venute in luce ,per lequali ogni elevato ingegno potr in diversi modi commodissimamente servirsi4 ,in ,venetia1 ,appresso ,ieronimo ,calepino1 #aefc4acaj #hvo1 #af ff41 #bi plates of flowing borders like the preceding4 #ec4 ,sidenote3 #aefd4 ,venice4 ,i ,frutti opera nuova intitulata i frutti de i punti in stuora1 a fogliami1 nella quale si ritrova varie1 et diverse sorti di mostre di ponti in ,stuora1 a fogliami1 punti in gasii in punti in ,trezola4#acaa ,dove ogni bella et virtuosa donna potr fare ogni sorte di lavoro1 cio fazoletti1 colari1 maneghetti1 ,merli1 ,frisi1 ,cavezzi1 ,intimelle1 overo forelle1 avertadure da camise1 altre sorti di lavori1 come piu a pieno potrai vedere1 ne mei per l' adietro d' alcun altro fatte poste in luce4 #dge,opera non men bella1 che utile et necessaria a ciascuna virtuosa gentildonna4 ,in ,vinegia1 #aefd4acab ,obl4 #hvo1 #af ff41 #cj plates of patterns either in dots or small squares4 #ed4 ,sidenote3 #aefd4 ,paris4 ,patrons pour brodeurs1 lingires1 massons1 verriers1 et autres gens d'esperit2 nouvellement imprim1 ,paris1 rue ,saint-,jacques1 la ,queue-de ,regnard ,m4,,dlxiiii4#acac #ee4 ,sidenote3 #aefd4 ,venice4 ,d4 de ,franceschi4 ,fede 7,opere nova7 intitulata3 ,dei ,recami nella quale si contiene varie diverse sorte di mostre di punti scritto1 tagliato1 in ,stuora1 in ,rede1 c4 ,in ,venetia1 appresso ,domenico de ,franceschi in ,frezzaria1 all' insegna della ,regina4 ,m4,,dlviii4 ,in #dto1 ff4 #af4 ,in his ,avis au ,lecteur1 ,franceschi alludes to three other works he had published1 styled ,la ,regina1 ,la ,serena1 and ,la ,speranza4 #ef4 ,sidenote3 #aefd4 ,venice4 ,d4 de ,franceschi4 ,serena opera nova di recami1 nella quale si ritrova varie et diverse sorte di punti in stuora et punti a filo4 ,in ,venetia1 ,domenico di ,franceschi4 #aefd4 ,obl4 #dto1 ff4 #af4 ,nos4 #ee and #ef cited by ,marquis d',adda4 #eg4 ,sidenote3 #aeha4 ,lyon4 ,j4 ,ostans4 ,le trsor des patrons1 contenant diverses sortes de broderies et lingeries2 pour coudre avec grande facilit et pour ouvrer en diverses sortes de piquer avec l'sguille1 pulveriser par dessus et faire ouvrages de toutes sortes de points ct par ,jean ,ostans4 ,lyon1 ,ben4 ,rigaud4 #aeha1 in #d-to4#acad #eh4 ,sidenote3 #aefg4 ,venice4 ,j4 ,ostans4 ,ostans ,giovanni4 ,la vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di ,recami1 et di cucire1 c4 444 punti a fogliami punti tagliati punti a fili et rimessi punti in cruciati1 punti a stuora1 et ogni altra arte che dia opera a disegni4 ,fatta nuovamente per ,gio4 ,ostans4 ,vittoria1 con gratia et privilegio dell' ,illus4 #dgf,senato ,venetiano per anni4#acae ,in ,venetia appresso ,gio4 ,ostans1 #aefg4 #dto obl41 #d cahiers of #h ff41 #gd plates4 ,letter of ,ostans to ,lucretia ,contarini2 verso1 an engraving of ,lucretia ,romana1 surrounded by her women1 signed ,jose4 ,sal4 7,joseph ,salviati71 who furnished the design1 two sonnets1 and ,aves4 ,a striking example of the borrowing between ,france and ,italy in the sixteenth century1 probably of the school of ,fontainebleau4 ,grotesques like ,a4 du ,cerceau1 scrolls after ,e4 de ,laulne1 fresco of figures from ,g4 ,tory4 ,brunet describes a copy dated #aeia4 #ei4 ,sidenote3 #aehd4 ,venice4 ,valvassore's heirs4 ,ostans4 ,la vera perfettione del desegno ct4 ,venetia ,m4,,dlxxxiiii41 presso gli heredi ,valvassori e ,gio4 ,dom4 ,micheli al segno dell' ,ippogrifo4 ,in #dto obl4 7,cited by ,marquis d',adda47 #fj4 ,sidenote3 #aehb4 ,b4 ,tabin4 ,neues ,knstlicher1 ,modelbuch von allerhand artlichen und gerechten ,mdeln1 c41 bei ,b4 ,tabin4#acaf #fa4 ,sidenote3 ,paris4 #aehd4 ,d4 de ,sera4 ,le livre de ,lingerie1 compos par ,maistre ,dominique de ,sera1 ,italien1 enseignant le noble gentil art de l'esguille1 pour besongner en tous points3 utile profitable toutes ,dames ,damoyselles1 pour passer le temps1 euiter oysivet4 ,nouvellement augment1 enrichi1 de plusieurs excelents divers patrons1 tant du point coup1 raiseau1 que passement1 de l'invention de ,m4 ,jean ,cousin1 ,peintre ,paris4 ,a ,paris4 ,chez ,hierosme de ,marnef1 la veufve de ,guillaume ,cauellat1 au mont ,s4 ,hilaire l'enseigne du ,pelican4 #aehd4 ,avec privilege du ,roy4#acag ,in the ,cat4 d',estres2 ,no4 #hhdh1 is ,livre de ,pourtraicture de ,jean ,cousin4 ,paris1 #afcg1 in #d fig4 #dto1 #bh ff41 #ea plates of medival design4 ,frontispiece1 three women and a child at work1 on each side of the title a man and a woman at work under a trifoliated canopy4 ,privilege for three years to ,h4 de ,marnef1 jur libraire en l',universit de ,paris4 ,l'auteur aux lecteurs4 ,he takes his pen to portray what he has seen en ,italie1 ,espagne1 ,romanie1 ,allemagne1 autre pas1 dont je ne fais aucune mention cause de trop longue plexite1 that he gives at #dggleast eighty designs for the use and singular profit of many1 hommes tant que femmes4 ,below1 ,finis coronat opus4 ,then follows a ,balade of #bh lines4 ,on the last page1 the impresa of ,cavellat1 a pelican in its piety1 ,mors in me vita in me4 #fb4 ,sidenote3 #aeif4 ,g4 ,frano4 ,frano ,gio4 ,libro delle mostre da ceuser per le donne4 #af engravings on wood and #h on copper4 7,cited by ,marquis d',adda47 #fc4 ,sidenote3 ,bologna4 ,a4 ,parisini4 ,danieli ,bartholomeo ,recamatore libro di diversi disegni per ,collari1 punti per ,fazzoletti et ,reticelle divarie sorte4 ,agostino ,parisini forma in ,bologna4 #ae leaves obl4 #hvo1 entirely engraved au burin1 towards the end of the sixteenth century4#acah #fd4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,ornamento delle belle et virtuose donne opera nova nella quale troverrai varie sorti di frisi1 con li quali si potra ornar ciascuna donna1 ogni letti con ponti tagliato1 ponti gropposi1 ogni altra sorte di ponti per fare quelle belle opere che si appartengono alle virtuose lodevoli fanciulle4 ,on a scutcheon1 with #c figures below1 ,libro ,primo4 ,lib4 ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 #fe4 ,sidenote3 #aehg4 ,paris4 #ast ,edit4 #ast ,part4 ,f4 ,vinciolo4 ,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de ,lingerie4 ,servans de patrons faire toutes sortes de poincts1 coupp1 ,lacis autres4 ,dedie a la ,royne4 ,nouvellement inventez1 au proffit cotentement1 des nobles ,dames ,damoiselles autres gentils esprits1 amateurs d'un tel art4 ,par le ,seigneur ,federic 7sic7 de ,vinciolo ,venitien4 ,a ,paris4 ,par ,iean le ,clerc le ieune1 ru ,chartiere1 au ,chef ,sainct ,denis4 #aehg4 ,avec privilege du ,roy4#acai ,sidenote3 #bnd ,part4 ,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de ,lingerie ou est represent les sept planettes1 plusieurs autres figures pourtraitz servans de patrons faire de plusieurs sortes de ,lacis4 ,nouvellement inventez1 au proffit cotentement des nobles ,dames ,damoiselles autres gentils esprits1 amateurs d'un tel art4 ,par le ,seigneur ,federic de ,vinciolo ,venitien4 ,a ,paris4 ,par ,iean le ,clerc le ieune1 ru ,chartiere1 au ,chef ,sainct ,denis4 #aehg4 ,avec privilege du ,roi4 7,at the end47 ,privilege for nine years to ,iean le ,clerc le ieune1 'tailleur d'histoires1' ,paris1 signed #bg ,june1 #aehg4 ,de l',imprimerie de ,david le ,clerc ,rue ,frementel l',estoille d',or4 #dghdto4 ,the first part consists of #dj ff41 #cf of patterns and #d preliminary pages4 ,p4 #a4 ,the title-page with decorated border1 in which are two ladies at work4 7,see ,title-page of this work47 ,p4 #b4 ,dedication of ,le ,seigneur ,federic de ,vinciolo aux ,benevolles ,lecteurs1 in which he sets forth that several authors before him having published certain patterns for work that les ,seigneurs1 ,dames1 ,damoyselles ont eu pour agrable1 he1 to show la bonne volont que je porte la ,france1 laquelle m'ayant t douce et favorable1 depuis certain temps que j'ay quitt ,venize1 pas de ma nativit1 wish to portray the present pourtraicts d'ouvrages magnifiques tous differes1 non encor usitez en cette cotree ni aultres1 que j'ay tenus cachs incognus jusques maintenant1 feeling assured that if the first you had seen on engendr quelque fruit utilit1 ceux cy en aporteront d'avantage1 and if ,i see this my invention pleases you1 ,i will vous faire participer d'un aultre seconde bande d'ouvrages4 ,p4 #c4 ,dedication ,a la ,royne1 ,louise de ,vaudemont1 by ,le ,clerc1 saying that having received from ,italy some rare and singular patterns1 and ouvrages de l'ingerie en ayat invete quelques uns1 selon mon petit savoir1 j'ay pens puis que ces choses l appartienent principallement aux ,dames1 that he cannot do better than present them to the ,queen1 as if these patterns are useful 7as he hears some less perfect and more rudely sketched have served and profited before71 they ought to be offered to her ,majesty4 ,signed last day of ,may1 #aehg4 ,p4 #d4 ,a sonnet4 ,,aux ,,dames ,,et ,,damoiselles4 ,l'un sefforce gaigner le coeur des grads seigneurs ,pour possder enfin une exquise richesse1 ,l'autre aspire aux ,estats pour monter en altesse1 ,et l'autre par la guerre allche les honneurs4 ,quand moy1 seulement pour chasser mes langueurs1 ,je me sen satisfait de vivre en petitesse1 ,et de faire si bien1 qu'aux dames je dlaisse ,un grand contentement en mes graves labeurs4 ,prenez doncques en gr 7mes ,dames71 je vous prie1 ,ces pourtrais ouvragez lesquelz je vous ddie1 ,pour tromper vos ennuis1 et l'esprit employer4 ,en ceste nouveaut1 pourrs beaucoup apprendre1 ,et maistresses en fin en cest oeuvre vous rendre4 ,le travail est plaisant4 ,si grand est le loyer4 ,morir assidouamente per virtu1 ,non morir4 ,then follow the #cf patterns set off in white on a black ground1 viz41 #bj ,ouvrages de point ,coupp1 the first plate with the double ,greek3 ll1 according to the fashion introduced by ,francis ,i4 of using ,greek monograms1 standing for ,queen ,louise4 ,on the second page are two escutcheons1 one of ,france1 the other with the letter ,h for ,henry ,,iii4 ,then follow eight ,passemens de point ,coupp1 which are succeeded by eight more ,ouvrages de point ,coupp4 ,part #b1 #bd ff4 ,same decorated frontispiece and #bb plates of subjects in squares for stitches like the ,german patterns of the present day4 ,these consist of the ,seven ,planets1 ,sol1 ,luna1 ,mars1 ,mercury1 ,jupiter1 ,venus and ,saturn4 ,four in squares of various designs2 two of ,amorini shooting stags and birds2 ,neptune and the winds2 an arabesque with impresa of a column with circle and double triangle2 five borders and squares1 and #dgitwo bordures carreaux1 diamond-shaped meshes4 ,the last page contains the ,extract from the ,privilege4 ,this is the original edition of ,vinciolo1 of which we know but one copy existing--that in the ,library at ,rouen4 ,it was followed the same year by two other editions1 with alterations4#acbj #ff4 ,sidenote3 #aehg4 #bnd ,ed4 #ast ,part4 ,f4 ,vinciolo4 ,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de ,lingerie4 ,nouvellement augmentez de plusieurs differens pourtraits servans de patrons faire toutes sortes poincts coupp1 ,lacis1 et autres reseau de poinct cont4 ,dedi la ,royne4 ,le tout invent1 au proffit contentement des nobles ,dames ,damoiselles autres gentils esprits1 amateurs d'un tel art4 ,par le ,seigneur ,federic de ,vinciolo ,venitien4 ,a4 ,paris4 ,par ,iean le ,clerc le ieune1 ru ,chartiere1 au ,chef ,sainct ,denis1 pres le college de ,coqueret4 ,avec privilege du ,roy4 #aehg4 ,sidenote3 #bnd part4 ,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de ,lingerie ou avons augmet plusieurs nouveaux differens portraitz de reseau1 tout point cont1 plusieurs nouvelles bordures et autres sortes differentes4 ,nouvellement inventez au proffit cotentement des nobles ,dames ,damoiselles autres gentils esprits amateurs d'un tel art4 ,par le ,seigneur ,federick de ,vinciolo ,venitien4 ,a ,paris4 ,par ,iean le ,clerc le ieune1 ,ru ,chartiere1 au ,chef ,sainct ,denis1 pres le college de ,coqueret4 ,avec privilege du ,roy4 #aehg4acba #ast ,part1 #dj ff4 ,the same frontispiece1 dedications1 date1 and sonnet1 as the first1 the same number of patterns1 only the eight styled in the first ,passemens are here all called1 like the others1 ,ouvrages de point coupp4 7,see ,fig4 #d47 #bnd ,part1 #cb ff4 ,this part has #cj patterns1 comprising the #bd of the first edition1 and six additional ones1 consisting of squares and two hunting subjects4 #fg4 ,sidenote3 #aehg4 #crd ,edit4 ,no4 #a4 ,parts #a and #b4 ,les singuliers et nouveaux ,pourtraicts1 du ,seigneur ,federic de ,vinciolo ,venitien1 pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de ,lingerie4 ,dedie a la ,royne4 ,derechef et pour la troisieme fois augmentez ,outre le reseau premier et le point coupp et lacis1 de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point cot avec le nombre des mailles1 choze non encor veue ni invente4 #dhj;,a ,paris4 ,par ,iean le ,clerc le ieune1 ru ,chartiere1 au ,chef ,sainct ,denis1 pres le ,college de ,coqueret4 ,avec privilege du ,roy4 #aehg4acbb ,this must be the first impression of the third edition4 ,sidenote3 #aehh4 #crd ,edit4 ,no4 #b4 #ast ,part4 ,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts1 du ,seigneur ,federic de ,vinciolo ,venitien1 pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de ,lingerie4 ,dedi a la ,royne4 ,derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez1 outre le reseau premier le point coupp lacis1 de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point cot1 avec le nombre des mailles1 chose non encor veu1 ny invente4 ,a ,paris4 ,par ,iean le ,clerc le ieune1 au mont ,saint ,hilaire1 du ,chef ,sainct ,denis1 pres le ,clos ,bruneau4 ,avec privilege du ,roy4 #aehh4acbc #fh4 ,sidenote3 #bnd ,part4 ,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts1 du ,seigneur ,federic de ,vinciolo ,venitien1 pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de ,lingerie4 ,dedi a la ,royne4 ,derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez1 outre le reseau premier le point coupp lacis1 de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point cot1 avec le nombre des mailles1 chose non encor veu1 ny invente4 ,a ,paris4 ,par ,iean le ,clerc le ieune1 au mont ,saint ,hilaire1 au ,chef ,sainct ,denis1 pres le ,clos ,bruneau4 ,avec privilege du ,roy4 #aehh4acbd ,this must be subsequent to the ,brussels impression1 as ,jean le ,clerc has changed his address4 ,in the third edition1 dorso of pp4 #a and #b1 we have the addition of portraits of ,louise de ,vaudemont and ,henry ,,iii41 with a complimentary stanza of four lines under each4 ,in his ,advertisement au lecteur1 ,vinciolo says that having promised1 since the first impression of his book1 to give a nouvelle bande d'ouvrages1 and not to disappoint certain ladies who have complained that he has not made du reseau assez beau leur fantaisie1 ,i have wished for the third time to place before their eyes many new and different patterns of reseau de point cont que j'ay cousus et attachez la fin de mes premires figures1 beneath which ,i have put the number and quantity of the stitches4 ,same dedication and sonnet as before4 ,privilege for nine years dated ,paris1 #be ,may1 #aehg4 ,de l',imprimerie de ,david le ,clerc1 ru ,s4 ,jacques1 au petit ,bec1 devant le ,college de ,marmouttier4 #ast ,part1 #dj ff41 #cf plates1 #bg of point coupp1 two stomachers1 and seven ,passemens de point coupp2 the same lettered ,ouvrages as in the preceding impression4 #bnd ,part1 #cf ff41 #ej plates4 ,the thirty already published in the second edition1 after which follow the twenty additional of reseau de point cont1 announced in the ,preface1 consisting of #f ,quarrs1 #b ,coins de #dha,mouchoir1 #b ,bordures1 #f animals3 ,lion1 ,pelican1 ,unicorn1 ,stag1 ,peacock1 and ,griffon2 and the ,four ,seasons4 ,desse des fleurs1 representant le ,printemps1 etc4 ,these last twenty have the number of stitches given4 7,see ,fig4 #e47 ,on the last page is an escutcheon with the arms of ,france and ,poland4 #fi4 ,sidenote3 #aehh4 #crd ,edit4 ,no4 #c4 ,parts #a and #b4 ,a later impression still4 ,same title1 date1 portraits1 dedication1 and sonnet1 only the ,privilege is dated ce douzime jour de ,novembre #aehg4 ,de l',imprimerie de ,david le ,clerc1 ,rue ,s4 ,jaques1 aux trois ,mores4#acbe #cd ff4 #cj plates1 #ast part2 #ej plates in #bnd4 #gj4 ,sidenote3 #aeie4 #crd ,edit4 ,no4 #d4 ,parts #a and #b4 ,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts1 du ,seigneur ,frederic de ,vinciolo1 ,venitien1 pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de ,lingerie4 ,dedie la ,royne ,douairire de ,france4 ,de ,rechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez1 outre le reseau premier le point coupp lacis1 de plusieurs beaux differens portrais de reseau de point cot1 avec le nombre des mailles1 chose non encore veu ny invente4 ,a ,paris4 ,par ,iean le ,clerc1 ru ,saint ,jean de ,latran1 la ,salemandre4 ,avec privilege du ,roy4 #aeie4acbf ,this impression is dedicated to ,louise de ,vaudemont1 now ,reine ,douairire1 ,henry ,,iii4 having died in #aehi4 #ga4 ,sidenote3 #afjf4 #crd ,edit4 ,no #e4 ,parts #a and #b4 ,the same title as that of #aeie--;differing only in date4#acbg ,privilege for six years1 donn ,mantes1 le #c ,juillet #aeic4 ,at the foot1 ,de l',imprimerie de ,david le ,clerc au ,petit ,corbeil #afjf4 ,the #ast part has #cb ff4 and #cf plates2 #cb ,ouvrages de poinct coupp1 and #d stomachers4 ,the #bnd part #df plates1 same as those of #aehh1 only four less4 ,on the last page the escutcheon of ,france and ,navarre4 #gb4 ,sidenote3 #aehi4 #dth ,edit4 ,turin4 ,parts #a and #b4 ,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts1 du ,seigneur ,federic de ,vinciolo ,venitien1 pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de ,lingerie4 ,dedie a la ,royne4 ,derechef et pour la quatrieme fois augmentez1 outre le reseau premier et le point coupp et lacis1 de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point cont1 avec le nombre de mailles1 chose non encore veue ni inventee4 ,a ,thurin4 ,par ,eleazaro ,thomysi4 #aehi4acbh ,described in ,cat4 ,cicognara with the date #afeh4 ,the #ast part #dd ff4 and #ci plates2 the #bnd with #cf plates4 #dhb,the editions of #afac and #afbc are described in their chronological order4 ,nos4 #fd and #ga4 ,that of #afjc we have not seen2 but ,m4 ,leber states it to be equally rich with that of #afbc4 ,the copies of ,vinciolo in the ,bodleian bear the dates of #aehh1 #afjc1 and #afab4 ,baron ,pichon has a copy of an impression of #afab4 ,one at ,bordeaux1 in the ,bib4 de la ,ville1 is dated #aehh4 ,in a book sale at ,antwerp1 ,march1 #ahfd1 there was sold the following3-- ,lot #ebh4 ,livre de ,patrons de ,lingerie dedi a la ,royne1 nouvellement invente par le seignr ,frederic de ,vinciolo1 ,venitien4 ,paris1 ,jean le ,clerc1 #aeih4--,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de ,lingerie4 ,paris1 ,ibid41 #aeih4--,les secondes oeuvres et subtiles inventions de ,lingerie4 ,paris1 ,ibid41 #aeih4--,nouveaux pourtraicts de ,point coup et ,dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme4 ,a4 ,montbeliard1 ,jacques ,foillet1 #aeih4 #d tom4 #a vol4 in-#d4 v4 anc4 fig4 sur bois4 ,it went for #ddj francs to a ,mr4 ,ross4 ,we do not know the editions of #aeih4 ,as ,m4 ,leber observes1 the various editions of ,vinciolo1 published by ,le ,clerc and his widow1 from #aehg to #afbc1 and perhaps later1 are only impressions more or less varied of the two distinct books1 the one of point coup1 the other of lacis4 ,the work of ,vinciolo has been reprinted in several countries4 ,in ,england it has been translated and published by ,wolfe4 7,see ,no4 #gb47 ,at ,liege1 by ,jean de ,glen4 7,see ,no4 #gi47 ,mr4 ,douce says that it was reprinted at ,strasburg1 #aeif1 and at ,basle1 #aeii1 with a second part1 which is rare1 and sometimes contains a portrait by ,gaultier of ,catherine de ,bourbon4 ,in the ,bib4 ,nat4 7,grav4 ,b4 c4 #bb71 a volume headed ,vinciolo 7,federigo7 ,peintre ,venitien et ses imitateurs1 contains1 with ,la pratique1 etc41 of ,mignerak 7,see ,no4 #ic71 a ,german copy of the nouveaux pourtraits1 the work printed by ,ludwig ,knigs1 at ,basle1 #aeii 7,see ,no4 #he72 and a ,german work headed ,broderies sur filet1 #ej plates engraved upon copper4 #gc4 ,sidenote3 #aeia4 ,london4 ,wolf4 ,new and singular patternes and workes of ,linnen4 ,serving for patternes to make all sortes of ,lace edging and ,cut-workes4 ,newly invented for the profite and contentment of ,ladies1 ,gentlewomen1 and others that are desirous of this ,arte4 ,london3 ,imprinted by ,j4 ,wolfe and ,edward ,white1 #aeia4acbi ,,epistle ,,to ,,the ,,reader4 ,having framed a body of the best and rarest manner in true perfection of sundrie sortes of deuises or workes1 as well for frame-workes as other needle-workes1 ,i devised with all diligence and industrious studie to sattisfy the gentle mindes of vertuous women by bringing to light things never before as yet seene nor committed to print2 ,all which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order1 the one is formed or made by the other1 and soe proceedeth forward2 ,whereby with more #dhc;ease they may be sewed and wrought in ,cloth1 and keeping true accompt of the threads1 maintaine the bewtey of the worke4 ,and more1 who desyrith to bring the worke into a lesser forme1 let them make the squares lesse4 ,and if greater1 then inlarge them1 and so may you worke in divers sortes1 either by stitch1 pouncing1 or pouldering upon the same as you please4 ,alsoe it is to be understood that these squares serve not onely for cut-workes1 but alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching1 noteing withall that they are made to keepe the work or deuise in good order and even proportion--,and even if ye will that squares be greater1 make of two1 one1 four1 two1 and soe they will be larger4 ,and in this manner may you proceed in all4 ,god prosper your desires4 ,then follows the dedication3 ,to the ,right ,worshipful ,gentlewoman1 ,mistress ,susan ,saltonstall1 wife to the right ,worshipfull ,mr4 ,richard ,saltonstall1 ,alderman of the ,city of ,london 7afterwards ,lord ,mayor1 and knighted in #aeig74 ,it being my chance 7,right ,worshipfull7 to lighten upon certaine paternes of cut-worke and others brought out of ,foreign ,countries which have bin greatly accepted of by divers ,ladies and ,gentlewomen of sundrie nations and consequently of the common people2 ,this seemed unto mee a sufficient instance and argument to bestowe likewise some paines for the publishing thereof1 ,but being in suspense of the dedication two causes induced mee to imbolden myselfe to present it unto your acceptation and patronage3 ,first because that rare devises and inventions are for the most part more agreeable and gratefuller accepted1 than ordinarie and common things1 although of great price and value1 ,secondlie because these workes belong chiefly to ,gentlewomen for to passe away their time in vertuous exercises ,wherefore to fit and accommodate the dedication aright to the contents and subject of the book ,i thought it not amisse to offer it unto your worship in token of thankfullness for so many benefites which ,i have received so bountifullie at your hands ,assuring myselfe moreover that as these patternes will bring sufficient contentment and profite to all well-willers1 that are desirous of this ,arte1 soe they shall for ever acknowledge themselves to be beholden chiefly unto you1 being the chiefest occasion of the publishing and setting forthe thereof4 ,and therefore uppon hope that you will take these inventions in good parte1 which in time ,i am purposed 7,if ,god permit7 to increase and augment with more paternes of worke4 ,in the meantime ,i pray ,god give to your ,worship a happie prosperous and long life with a full accomplishment of all your vertuous desires4 ,your worshipps most dutiful ,servant and ,kinsman1 ,,adrian ,,poyntz4 #gd4 ,sidenote3 #aeia4 ,bologna4 ,t4 ,pasini4 ,fiori di ricami nuovamente posti in luce ne i quali sono varii1 et diversi dissegni di lavori2 ,come ,merli1 ,bauari1 ,manichetti1 altre sorti di opere1 che al presente sono in uso1 utilissimi ad ogni stato di ,donne4 ,seconda ,impressione4 ,impresa of ,mercury4 ,below-- ,in ,bologna1 per ,giovanni ,rossi4 ,,mdxci4 ,ad instanza di ,tomaso ,pasini4#accj #dhd,obl4 #hvo1 #bj ff41 #ah plates like ,vecellio1 one bavaro4 ,dedicated by the author to ,la ,signora ,silveria ,rossi ,ghisolieri4 ,mostly indented patterns on black grounds4 #ge4 ,sidenote3 #aeia4 ,venice4 ,f4 di ,franceschi4 ,prima ,parte de' fiori1 e disegni di varie sorti di ,ricami moderni come merli1 bavari1 manichetti1 altri nobili lavori che al presente sono in uso4 ,a figure of ,peace4 ,below-- ,in ,venetia1 ,appresso ,francesco di ,franceschi ,senese all' insegna della ,pace #aeia4acca ,obl4 #hvo1 #bj ff41 #ag plates in the style of ,vecellio4 ,dedication to ,la ,signora ,gabriella ,zeno ,michele1 signed ,di ,venetia alli #ai di ,marzo1 #aeia1 ,giovanbattista ,ciotti4 ,the last plate a figure of ,fortune1 with ,finis in ,venetia #aeia4 ,appresso ,nicolo ,moretti1 ad instantia di ,francesco di ,franceschi4 #gf4 ,sidenote3 #aeia4 ,venice4 ,f4 di ,franceschi4 ,la vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di ricami di cucire ogni sorti de punti foglami1 punti tagliati1 punti a fili rimessi1 punti incrociati1 punti stuoro ogn' altre arte1 che dia opera disegni4 ,e di nuovo aggiuntovi varie sorti di merli1 e mostre1 che al presente sono in uso in pratica4 ,impresa of ,peace differing from the preceding4 ,in ,venetia1 ,appresso ,francesco di ,franceschi ,senese all' insegna della ,pace4 #aeia4accb ,obl4 #hvo1 #hf ff41 #gb plates4 ,dedicated to ,signora ,lucretia ,contarini1 per matrimonio ,priula ,nobile ,gentildonna ,venetiana1 by ,giovanni ,ostans4 ,a woodcut of ,lucretia working with her maidens1 signed ,jose ,sol4 #aeeg4 ,patterns1 ,small ,squares1 ,gorgets1 ,youth1 ,paris1 ,pyramus and ,thisbe1 ,arabesques1 ,grotesques1 and an ,alphabet4 ,on the last leaf1 dorso1 ,a4 ,b4 ,c4 ,d4 tutte sono quaderni4 ,a figure again of ,peace1 and ,in ,ven4 #aeij4 #gg4 ,sidenote3 #aeib4 ,venice4 #ast ,book4 ,c4 ,vecellio4 ,corona delle nobili et virtuose donne4 ,libro primo4 ,nel quale si dimostra in varij ,dissegni1 tutti le sorti di ,mostre di punti tagliati1 punti in aria1 punti ,reticello1 e d' ogni altra #dhesorte cosi per ,freggi come per ,merli1 ,rosette1 che con l' ,aco si usano hoggid per tutta l' ,europa4 ,et molte delle quali ,mostre possono servire anchora per ,opere ,mazzette4 ,aggiuntivi in questa ,quarta impressione molti bellissimi dissegni non mai pi veduti4 ,then follows the printer's impresa of the stork and serpent4 ,voluptatum et malorum effetuu dissipatio1 with a lady at work on each side1 and below-- ,con privilegio4 ,in ,venetia1 ,appresso ,cesare ,vecellio in ,frezzaria nelle ,case de' ,preti4 #aeib4accc ,which is repeated in the #bnd and #crd ,books4 ,obl4 #dto1 #cb ff41 #bh plates4 ,dedication of ,vecellio ,alla ,clarissima1 et ,illustrissima ,signora1 ,viena ,vendramina ,nani1 dignatissima ,consorte dell' ,illustamo ,sig4 ,polo ,nani1 il ,procurator di ,s4 ,marco1 in which he refers to his work on costume1 and says that he dedicates this book to her for the delight she takes in these works and in farne essercitar le donne di casa sua1 ricetto delle piu virtuose giovani che hoggid vivano in questa citt4 ,signed3 ,venice1 ,jan4 #bj1 #aeia4 ,beautiful designs1 among which are three corners for handkerchiefs1 the last lettered3 ,diverse inventioni p4 cantoni dee fazoletti4 ,on ,plate #c1 within a point coup border1 is a statue of ,venus standing upon a tortoise1 with other figures1 and above1 ,conviensi1 che della ,donna la bont1 non la bellezza sia divulgata1 and underneath3-- ,veneer io son1 de le mirabil mani ,del dotto ,fidia d' un bel marmo finta4 ,in me vedete atti gentili1 e humani1 ,ch' esser d ,donna gentilezza accinta4 ,io sopra una ,testugine dimora1 ,perch stia in ,casa1 e sia tacita ogn' hora4 ,sidenote3 #bnd ,book4 ,corona delle nobili et virtuose donne4 ,libro secondo4 ,nel quale si dimostra in varij ,dissegni1 tutte le sorti di ,mostre de puute tagliati1 punti in aria1 punti ,reticello1 e d' ogni altra sorte1 cosi per ,freggi1 come per ,merli1 ,rosette1 che con l' ,aco si usano hoggid per tutta l' ,europa4 ,et molti delle quali ,mostre possono servire anchora per ,opere ,mazzette4 ,aggiuntivi in questa ,quarta ,impressione molti bellissimi dissegni non mai pi veduti4 ,con ,privilegio4 ,in ,venetia1 ,appresso ,cesare ,vecellio1 in ,frezzaria nelle ,case de' ,preti4 #aeib4 #bh ff41 #bf plates4 ,the dedication of this and the next book1 though differently worded1 are addressed to the same lady as the first4 ,this is dated ,jan4 #bd1 #aeia4 ,among the patterns are two designs for handkerchiefs1 and on the last plate a statue of ,vesta1 within a point coup border4 ,sidenote3 #crd ,book4 ,corono delle nobili et virtuose donne4 ,libro terzo4 ,nel #dhfquale si dimostra in varii dissegni molte sorti di ,mostri di ,punti in ,aria1 ,punti tagliati1 ,punti a reticello1 and ancora di picciole2 cosi per ,freggi1 come per ,merli1 ,rosette1 che con l' ,aco si usano hoggidi per tutta l',europa4 ,con alcune altre inventione di ,bavari all' usanza ,venetiana4 ,opera nouva e non pi in luce4 ,con privilegio4 ,in ,venetia ,appresso ,cesare ,vecellio1 st in ,frezzaria nelle ,case de' ,petri4 #aeib4 ,dedication dated ,june #ae1 #aeia4 ,vecellio says he has added alcune inventioni di bavari all' usanza nostra4 ,in the copy 7,bib4 de l',arsenal1 #aa1iee bis7 are added instructions to transfer the patterns upon parchment without injuring the book4 ,the last plate shows how to reduce the patterns and how to prick them 7,fig4 #agj74 ,this is sometimes given at the end of the first book instead of the third4 #bh ff41 #bf plates1 two of bavari4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agj4 ,,manner ,,of ,,pricking ,,the ,,pattern4--7,vecellio47 ,on ,pl4 #bg1 woman with a torch and ,cupid4 ,at ,pl4 #bh1 in a point coup border1 is a fox holding the bust of a lady1 the conceit of which is explained by the verses to be1 that sense is better than beauty3-- ,trov la ,volpe d' un ,scultore eletto ,una testa s ben formata1 tale1 ,che sol le manca ,spirito havresti detto1 ,tanto l' industria1 e l' arteficio vale1 ,la prende in man1 poi dice2 ,o che perfetto ,capo1 e gentil2 ma voto d' inteletto4 #gh4 ,sidenote3 #aeid4 ,venice4 ,c4 ,vecellio4 ,gioiello della corona per le nobili e virtuose donne4 ,libro quarto4 ,nel quale si dimostra altri nuovi bellissimi ,dissegni di tutte le sorte di ,mostre di ,punti in ,aria1 ,punti tagliati ,punti ,reticello2 cos per ,freggi1 come per ,merli1 ,rosette1 che con l' ,aco si usano hoggid per tutta l' ,europa4 ,et molte delle quali mostre possono servire anchora per opere ,mazzette ,nuovament posto in luce con molte bellissime inventioni non mai pi usate1 n vedute4 ,con privilegio4 ,in ,venetia1 ,appresso ,cesare ,vecellio1 in ,frezzaria nella ,casa de i ,preti4 #aeid4 ,same impresa of the stork and serpent4 ,dedicated to the ,sign4 ,isabella ,palavicina ,lupi ,marchesa di ,soragana1 dated ,venetia alli #bj ,novembrio #aeib4 ,cesare ,vecellio4 #cj plates4#accd #dhg,vecellio1 author of the ,corona and ,gioiello1 also published a work on costume styled ,degli ,habiti ,antichi et ,moderni4 ,in ,venezia1 #aeij4 ,presso ,damian ,zenero4 ,in the frontispiece is a salamander2 on the last leaf a figure of ,vesta4 ,it has been reproduced by ,f4 ,didot1 ,paris4 ,he was not1 as is often incorrectly stated1 a relation1 or even of the same family as ,titian4 ,these are the earliest impressions we have had an opportunity of examining of ,vecellio's works1 which appear to have been widely circulated4 ,the ,bib4 de l',arsenal possesses two copies of the ,corona 7,no4 #aa1iee71 from which we have described4 ,in the other 7,no4 #aa1aee bis71 ,book #a ultima1 ,book #b quarta1 are both dated #aeic2 and ,book #c nuovamente ristampata la quarta volta1 #aeib4 ,the plates all the same4 ,the ,library of ,rouen 7,no4 #a1cae7 has a volume containing the ,corona and ,gioiello4 ,book #a quarta ,imp41 ,book #b ultima1 both dated #aeid2 and ,book #c quinta1 #aeic4 ,the ,gioiello1 #aeic4 ,in the ,bodleian is a copy of the three books1 date #aeib2 and another1 date #aefa1 was in the possession of the late ,mrs4 ,dennistoun of ,dennistoun4 ,at ,venice1 in the ,doge's ,library1 is a volume containing the three books of the ,corona and the ,gioiello1 dated #aeic4 ,mrs4 ,stisted1 ,bagni di ,lucca1 also possesses the three books of the ,corona1 dated #aeig1 and the ,gioiello1 #aeib4 ,at ,bologna the ,library has one volume1 containing the first and second books only1 evidently the original impressions4 ,the titles are the same as the above1 only to each is affixed1 ,opera nuova e non pi data in luce1 and ,stampata per gli ,hered' della ,regina4 #aeia4 ,an instantia di ,cesare ,vecellio1 ,st in ,frezzaria4 ,the same ,library also possesses a volume1 with the three books of the ,corona1 the first and third ottava1 the second quarta1 and the ,gioiello1 nuovamente posto in luce4 ,all ,in ,venetia appresso gli heredi di ,cesare ,vecellio1 in ,frezzaria4 #afjh4 ,at ,vienna1 in the new ,museum for ,art and ,industry1 is a copy of the five books1 dated #afja4acce ,cav4 ,merli cites from a copy of the four books1 dated #afjj4 ,the various impressions1 therefore1 date from #aeia to #afjh4 ,we see these different parts1 like those of ,vinciolo and all these old collections1 have been printed and reprinted independently of each other1 since the third part was at its fifth impression in #aeic1 while the first1 which ought to have preceded it1 was only at its fourth in #aeid4accf #gi4 ,sidenote3 #aeic4 ,st4 ,gall4 ,g4 ,strauben4 ,new ,model ,buch darinnen allerley ,gattung schner ,modeln der newen aussgeschitnen ,arbeit auff ,krgen1 ,hempter1 ,jakelet und dergleichen zu newen1 so zuvor in ,teutschlandt nicht gesehen4 ,allen thugentsamen ,frawen und ,jungkfrawen1 ,ntterinnen1 auch allen audern so lust zu solcher kunstlichen ,arbeit haben1 sehr dienstlich4 #dhh;,getruckt in uerlegung ,george ,strauben1 von ,s4 ,gallem1 ,anno #aeic4accg ,translation4 ,new ,patternbook1 in which are all sorts of beautiful patterns of the new cutwork for collars1 shirts1 jackets1 and such like1 such as never before were seen in ,germany4 ,most useful to all virtuous dames and such artistic works1 very respectfully dedicated4 ,printed for the publisher1 ,g4 ,strauben4 ,a reprint of the third book of ,vecellio's ,corona4 #hj4 ,sidenote3 ,n4,d4 ,lindau am ,bodensee4 ,neu ,model-,buch1 darinnen allerley gattung schner ,modeln der neuen1 etc4 ,probably a reprint of ,no4 #gi4 #bg plates4 #ha4 ,sidenote3 #aeig4 ,lige4 ,j4 de ,glen4 ,les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraits1 pour toutes sortes de lingeries de ,jean de ,glen1 dedis ,madame ,loyse de ,perez2 ,lige1 chez ,jean de ,glen1 l'an #aeig4acch ,obl4 #dto1 #ci plates1 mostly borrowed from ,vinciolo1 as well as the title4 #hb4 ,sidenote3 #aeif4 ,florence4 ,m4 ,florini4 ,fior di ,ricami nuovamente porti in luce4 ,fiorenze1 #aeif1 ad instanza di ,mattheo ,florini4 #dto obl41 #bd plates and #b leaves of text4#acci #hc4 ,sidenote3 #afjc4 ,siena4 ,m4 ,florini4 ,fiori di ,ricami nuovamente porti in luce nei quali sono varie et diversi disegni di lavori1 como merli1 bavari1 manichetti e altre sorte di opera4 ,siena1 appresso ,matteo ,florini1 #afjc4 #dto obl41 #bd pages4#acdj #hd4 ,sidenote3 #afjc4 ,siena4 ,m4 ,florini4 ,giojello1 c4 ,nel quale si di mostra altri novi bellissimi disegni di tutte le sorte1 di mostre c4 444 di punti c41 cosi #dhiper fregi come per merli et rosette che con l' aco si usanno hoggi di per tutte l' ,europa4 ,opere a ,mazzetto nuovamente posta in luce con motte bellissime inventioni non mai pi usate ne vedute4 ,in ,siena1 ,matteo ,florini ,,mdciii4 #dto obl4 7,cited by ,marquis d',adda47 #he4 ,sidenote3 #aeig4 ,nuremberg4 ,b4 ,laimoxen4 ,schn neues ,modelbuch von allerley lstigen ,mdeln naczunehen zu wrken un zu sticke2 gemacht im ,jar ,ch4 #aeig1 zu ,nrmberg1 bey ,balthaser ,laimoxen zu erfragen4#acda ,translation4 ,fine new ,patternbook of all sorts of pleasant patterns for sewing1 working1 and embroidering3 made in the year of ,christ #aeig1 at ,nurmberg3 to be had of ,balthasar ,laimoxen4 ,obl4 fol41 #bg ff4 #e sheets1 title-page1 and poem1 signed ,j4 ,s4 7,johann ,sibmacher47 ,mr4 ,gruner has communicated to us a work with the same title1 dated #aeia4acdb #hf4 ,sidenote3 #aeih4 ,montbliard4 ,j4 ,foillet4 ,nouveaux pourctraicts de point coup et dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme nouvellement inventez mis en lumiere ,imprim a ,montbliard par ,jacques ,foillet 777xciix 7#aeih74acdc ,small #dto1 #hb ff41 #gh plates4 ,frontispiece with borders composed of squares of point coup4 ,avertissement aux dames1 of three pages1 stating these works are all composed of point devant l'esguille1 de point en toille1 en bouclages1 de cordonnages4 ,the writer gives patterns of roses of all sizes1 very little1 middling1 large1 and very large1 with from one to nine pertuis1 or openings1 holes4 ,also ,carreaux in different forms1 and lastly dantelles4 ,je n'ay voulu omettre de vous dire que pour faire des dantelles1 il vous fault jetter un fil de la grandeur que desir faire vos dantelles1 les cordonner1 puis jetter les fils au dedans1 qui fera tendre le cordon lui donnera la forme carre1 ronde1 ou telle forme que desires1 ce qu'estant faict vous parachevers facilement4 ,enoultre vous verrez qu'estant bien petites deviennent peu a peu bien grandes jusques a la fin4 ,elles vous enricheront embelliront vos ouvrages en les applicant aux bords d'iceux4 ,directions1 we confess1 perfectly enigmatical to us4 ,the author finishes by exhorting the ladies to imitate ,minerva and ,arachne1 qui ont acquis un grand renom1 pour avoir 7come l'envie l'une de l'autre7 travaill de l'esguille4 ,the avertissement is followed by an ,exhortation aux jeunes filles4 in verse1 of #ba lines1 beginning-- ,si nuisible est aux humains la paresse1 etc4 #dj patterns of roses1 of point coup4 #dij;,and #ah of ,carreaux1 variously disposed4 ,then follow #bj patterns of lace1 of bien petites1 petites1 moyennes1 grosses1 all au point devant l',esguille4 7,see ,figs4 #h to #ab47 ,at the end3 ,la fin courone l'oeuvre4 ,this is the earliest pattern-book in which the word dantelle occurs4 #hg4 ,sidenote3 #aeih4 ,montbliard4 ,j4 ,foillet4 ,new ,modelbuch darinnen allerley ausgeschnittene ,arbeit1 in kleiner1 mittelmssiger und grosser form erst neulich erfunden4 ,allen tugenden ,frawen vnnd ,jungfrawen sehr nutzlich4 ,gedruckt zu ,mumpelgarten durch ,jacob ,foillet1 #aeih4acdd #hh4 ,sidenote3 #aeii4 ,basle4 ,fewrnew ,modelbuch von allerhandt ,knstlicher ,arbeidt1 nmlich ,gestricht1 ,aussgezogen1 ,aussgeschnitten1 ,gewiefflet1 ,gesticht1 ,gewirckt1 und ,geneyt3 von ,wollen1 ,garn1 ,faden1 oder ,seyden3 auff der ,laden1 und ,sonderlich auff den ,ramen1 ,jetzt ,erstmals in ,teutschlandt an ,tag gebracht3 ,zu ,ehren und ,glucklicher ,zeitvetreibung allen dugentsamen ,frawen1 und ,jungfrawen ,ncherinen1 auch allen andern1 so lust zu solcher ,kunstlicher ,arbeit haben sehr dienstlich4 ,getruckt zu ,basel4 ,in verlegung ,ludwig ,kunigs ,,mdxcix4#acde ,small obl41 #cc ff41 #cb plates4 ,frontispiece border of point coup4 ,title in ,gothic red and black4 ,patterns1 mostly borders1 number of stitches given1 ,mit xxxxvii41 ,bengen1 etc4 ,ende dieses modelbuchs4 #hi4 ,sidenote3 #afja4 ,paris4 ,ble ,prrie contenant divers caracters1 et differentes sortes de lettres alphabetiques1 savoir lettres ,romaines1 de formes1 lettres pour appliquer sur le reseuil ou lassis1 et autres pour marquer sur toile et linges1 par ,pier4 le ,b4 ,paris1 #afja4acdf ,in #dto obl4 #ij4 ,sidenote3 #afja4 ,nuremberg4 ,sibmacher4 ,modelbuch in ,kupfer gemacht1 ,nrmberg1 bei ,michel ,kuisner1 #afja1 by ,j4 ,sibmacher4#acdg #ia4 ,sidenote3 #afjd4 ,nuremberg4 ,j4 ,sibmacher4 ,newes ,modelbch fr ,kpfer gemacht1 darinnen allerhand art newen ,model von dem ,mittel und ,dick ausgeschniden duer #dia;,arbeit auch andern kunstlichen ,nahework zu gebrauchen mit ,fluss fur druck verfertigt4 ,mit ,rm4 ,kais4 ,maj trentich ,nrmberg #afjd4acdh ,translation4 ,new book of patterns 7on copper7 in which are copied out all kinds of new patterns for thick and thin materials1 to be used also in the making of other artistic needlework4 ,obl4 #dto1 #eh plates carefully engraved upon copper4 ,title-page surrounded by a richly ornamented border1 with two figures1 one sewing1 the other at embroidery2 also a second ornamented frontispiece1 dedication to ,maria ,elizabeth1 ,electress ,palatine1 dated #afja4 ,nuremberg1 ,j4 ,sibmacher1 citizen and engraver4 ,then follow five pages of dialogue1 given page #f1 note #bd1 and #bbg4 ,a printed title to the next plate4 ,the following pattern may be worked in several different ways1 with a woven seam1 a flat1 round1 or crossed ,jew stitch4#acdi ,it is probably meant for cut-work made on thin materials4 ,then follow #eh leaves of patterns1 the greater number of which have the number of rows written over each pattern4 ,pl4 #ch1 with two patterns1 is inscribed1 ,the following patterns are for thick cut-work4 ,in the upper pattern1 on the first leaf1 are the arms of the ,palatine2 on the second1 those of ,juliers and ,mark4 #ib4 ,sidenote3 #afjj4 ,venice4 ,i4 ,c4 ,parasole4 ,pretiosa gemma delle virtuose donne dove si vedono bellissimi lavori di ponti in aria1 reticella1 di maglia e piombini disegnati da ,isabella ,catanea ,parasole4 ,e di nuovo dati in luce da ,luchino ,gargano con alcuni altri bellissimi lavori nuovamente inventati4 ,stampata in ,venetia ad instantia di ,luchino ,gargano ,,mdc4#acej ,see also ,no4 #ii4 #ic4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,allerhand ,model zum ,stricken un ,nhen4#acea ,obl4 #dto1 #fd plates4 ,no date4 #id4 ,sidenote3 #afjd4 ,padua4 ,p4 ,p4 ,fozzi4 ,a book of models for point coup and embroidery1 published at ,padua1 ,october #ast1 #afjd1 by ,pietro ,paolo ,fozzi4 ,romano4#aceb #ie4 ,sidenote3 #afje4 ,frankfort on the ,mayn4 ,s4 ,latomus4 ,schn newes ,modelbuch von #ejj schnen aussor whlten1 ,kunstlichen1 so wol ,italihnischen1 ,frantzsischen1 #dib,niederlndischen1 ,engellndischen1 als ,teutschen ,mdeln1 ,allen1 ,nher4444 hstichern1 c41 zu nutz4 7,some of the words are illegible47 ,livre des ,modelles fort utile tous ceux qui besoignent l'esguille4 ,at the foot of last page recto is1 ,franckfurt am ,mayn1 bey ,sigismund ,latomus1 #afje4acec ,small obl4 #ajj plates 7,fig4 #aga71 and coloured title-page with figures4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aga4 ,,frankfort-,,on-,,the-,,main1 #afje4 ,in the first plate is an escutcheon with this monogram 7,fig4 #agb7 surrounded with embroidery4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agb4 ,,monogram4 ,in the ,nuremberg copy it is at p4 #hc4 #if4 ,sidenote3 #afjg4 ,frankfort on the ,mayn4 ,s4 ,latomus4 ,schn newes ,modelbuch1 ,von hundert vnd achtzig schnen kunstreichen vnd gerechten ,mdeln1 ,teutsche vnd ,welsche1 welche auff mancherley ,art knnen geneet werden1 als mit ,zopffnath1 ,creutz vnnd ,judenstich1 auch auff ,laden zu wircken3 ,dessgleichen von ausserlesenen ,zinnigen oder ,spitzen4 ,allen ,seydenstickern1 ,mdelwirckerin1 ,nderin1 vnd solcher ,arbeitgeflissenen ,weibsbildern sehr dienstlich1 vnd zu andern ,mustern #dic;anleytlich vnd verstendig4 ,franckfurt am ,mayn1 ,in ,verlegung ,sigismundi ,latomi4 ,m4,d4,c4,,vii4#aced ,small #dto obl4 #ahj patterns4 ,sheets ,a-,o 7the last has only #c leaves74 ,on the title-page are two ladies1 one working at a pillow1 the other at a frame2 in the back-ground1 other women employed at various works4 ,another copy dated #afbi4 ,mr4 ,arnold and ,mr4 ,f4 ,s4 ,ellis4 #ig4 ,sidenote3 #afje4 ,paris4 ,m4 ,mignerak4 ,la pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du trs excellent ,milour ,matthias ,mignerak ,anglois1 ouvrier fort expert en toute sorte de lingerie ou sont tracez ,divers compartimens de carrez tous differans en grandeur et invention avec les plus exquises bordures1 desseins d'ordonnances qui se soient veux jusques ce jourd'hui tant poetiques historiques1 qu'au tres ouvrages de point de rebord4 ,ensemble ,les nouvelles invencions ,franoises pour ce qui est de devotion et contemplation4 ,a la ,tres-,chrestiene ,roine de ,france et de ,navarre4 ,avec privilege #afje du ,roy4#acee ,a ,paris1 par ,jean ,leclerc1 rue ,st4-,jean de ,latran1 la ,salamandre roialle4 ,,extract ,,from ,,discours ,,du ,,lacis4 ,ce chef d'oeuvre divin n'est pas l'adventure ,mais par art compos1 par nombre1 et par mesure2 ,il commence par un1 et va multipliant ,le nombre de ses trouz qu'un noeud va reliant1 ,sans perdre aucunement des nombres d'entresuitte1 ,croissant1 et decroissant d'une mesme conduitte3 ,et ainsi qu'il commence il acheve par un1 ,du monde le principe et le terme commun4 ,si l'on veut sans faillir cet ouvrage parfaire1 ,il faut multiplier1 adjouster1 et soustraire3 ,il faut bien promptement assembler1 et partir1 ,qui veut un beau ,lacis inegal compartir4 ,mais se peut il trouver1 souz la voute azure1 ,chose plus justement en tous sens mesure8 ,ouvrage ou il y ait tant de proportions1 ,de figures1 de traicts et de dimensions8 ,d'un point premirement une ligne l'on tire1 ,puis le filet courb un cercle va descrire1 ,et du cercle nou se trouve le quarr ,pour lequel retrouver tant d'esprits ont err4 ,de six mailles se faict une figure egale1 ,de trois costez esgaux1 pour forme pyramidale3 ,et l'ouvrage croissant1 s'en forme promptement #did ,une autre dont les deux sont egaux seulement4 ,si l'on tire un des coings1 se forme une figure4 ,d'un triangle en tout sens1 d'inegale mesure4 ,le moule plus tir faict les angles pointuz1 ,et l'ouvrage estendu faict les angles obtuz4 ,de mailles la fin un beau quarr se faict1 ,compos de quarrez1 tout egal1 et parfaict1 ,quarr qui toutesfois se forme variable1 ,or en lozange1 et or en figure de table4 ,la bande de ,lacis recouvert1 nos yeux1 ,est comme un beau pourtraict de l'escharpe des cieux1 ,dont chaque endroit ouvr nous represente un signe1 ,le milieu1 les degrez de l',eclyptique ligne2 ,le quarr1 des vertus le symbole1 et signal ,de science du livre et bonnet doctoral1 ,nous va representant l',eglise et la ,justice4 ,la faon de lacer figure l'exercice ,d'enfiler une bague on bien l'art d'escrimer4 4 4 4 4 4 ,le lacis recouvert sert de filet aux dames ,pour les hommes suprendre et enlacer leurs ames1 ,elles en font collets1 coiffures1 et mouchoirs1 ,des tentures de lits1 tauayoles1 pignoirs1 ,et maint autre ornement dont elles les enlacent1 ,c'est pourquoi en laant les femmes ne se lassent4 ,in #dto1 #gf ff41 #gb plates4 ,frontispiece3 ,two ladies1 with frames in their hands1 labelled ,diana and ,pallas4 ,on the top1 an escutcheon per pale ,france and ,medicis1 supported by ,cupids4 ,beneath1 ,cupids with distaff and winding reels4 ,between the sides of a pair of scissors is a cushion on which is extended a piece of lacis1 a marguerite in progress4 7,see ,fig4 #f47 ,above1 ,petrus ,firens fecit1 ,i4 le ,clerc excud4 ,below1 ,a ,paris par ,jean le ,clerc ,rue ,st4 ,jean de ,latran la ,salamandre royalle4 ,dedication of ,jean le ,clerc ,a la royne1 then ,marie de ,medicis1 stating3 ,j'avois recouvr d'un personnage ,anglois tres-expert en toute sorte de ,lingerie2 but who this ,milour ,mignerak may be1 history tells not4 ,then follows the ,discours du ,lacis1 a poem1 of which we give an extract4 ,the privilege is signed ,aug4 #b1 #afje4 ,the patterns consist of the ,queen's arms and cypher1 #d ,scripture subjects3 ,adam and ,eve1 the annunciation1 ,ecce ,homo1 and ,magdalen2 #d ,elements1 #d ,seasons2 ,roman ,charity1 ,lucretia1 ,venus1 and ,pluye d'or2 #f ,arbes fruit1 #f ,pots fleurs1 #cj ,carrs grands1 moyens et petits2 #f ,bordures1 and1 what is quite a novelty1 #f ,passements faits au fuseau4 7,see ,fig4 #ac73 the first mention of pillow lace in any of the ,french pattern-books4 #ih4 ,sidenote3 #afac4 ,paris4 ,f4 ,vinciolo4 ,les secondes oeuvres1 et subtiles inventions de ,lingerie du ,seigneur ,federic de ,viniolo ,venitien2 nouvellement augment de plusieurs carrez de point de rebort4 ,dedie ,madame1 soeur unique du roy4 ,ou sont representees plusieurs figures de ,reseau1 nombres de ,carrez et ,bordures tous differents1 le tout de poinct cont1 avec autres sortes de ,carrez de nouvelles inventions non encore vues4 #die;,a ,paris4 ,par ,jean le ,clerc1 rue sainct ,jean de ,latran1 la ,salemandre1 #afac4 ,avec privilege du ,roy4#acef ,a scarce and valuable volume1 the fullest edition of the second part of ,vinciolo's work4 #dto1 #fh ff41 #fa plates4 ,it contains a-- ,,sonnet ,,aux ,,dames ,,damoyselles4 ,esprits rarement beaux qui fuyez la paresse1 ,je vous fais un present qui la pourra chasser1 ,quand vous desirez de gayement passer ,vostre temps1 et monstrer de vostre main l'adresse4 ,le present est utile et plein de gentillesse1 ,il monstre les moyens de bien entrelasser4 ,et faire au point coupp tout ce qu'on peut penser4 ,cet exercise plaist ,pallas la ,deesse4 ,par ses enseignemens1 avec l'esguille on fait ,des fleurons1 des oyseaux1 en ouvrage parfait1 ,des chiffres et des noeuds1 tels que l'amour desire4 ,aymez cet exercise1 et vous y occupez1 ,et puis vous cognoistrez que sur les points couppez ,en diverses faons quelque portrait se tire4 ,the author's address to the reader1 and a ,dedication to ,madame1 soeur unique du roy 7,catherine de ,bourbon1 sister of ,henry ,,iv41 married1 #aeii1 to the ,duc de ,bar71 signed by ,le ,clerc4 ,on the second plates are her arms1 a lozenge1 ,france and ,navarre with crown and cordelire1 and the same lozenge also surmounts the decorated frontispiece1 supported on either side by a genius 787 working at a frame and point coup drapery4 #g ,scripture subjects3 ,the ,salutation1 ,st4 ,sacrement1 ,passion1 ,crucifixion1 ,adoration of the ,kings1 etc42 the number of the stitches given to each4 #b ,stomachers1 and various patterns of carrez and borders4 #b of ,point de rebort4 ,at the end is the ,discours du ,lacis1 already printed by ,mignerak4 #ii4 ,sidenote3 #afaf4 ,rome4 ,e4 ,c4 ,parasole4 ,teatro delle nobili et virtuose donne1 dove si rappresentano varij disegni di lavori novamente inventati et disegnati da ,elisabetta ,catanea ,parasole ,romana4 ,dedicata alla ,serenissima ,principessa ,donna ,elisabetta ,borbona d' ,austria1 ,principessa di ,spagna1 da ,e4 ,c4 ,parasole4 ,data di ,roma a di #e ,marzo #afaf4aceg ,other editions1 #afbj1 #afbe1 and #afcf4 ,the last is dedicated to the ,grand ,duchess of #dif,tuscany1 and has the ,medici and ,della ,rovere arms in the title-page4 ,obl4 #dto1 #dg ff41 #df plates 7#dd in ,prince ,massimo's copy7 beautifully executed1 the titles printed to each plate1 as ,lavori di punti in aria1 ,merletti di ponti reticella1 ,merletti a piombini1 etc4 7,see ,fig4 #ae47 #ajj4 ,sidenote3 #afjj4 ,venice4 ,i4 ,c4 ,parasole4 ,pretiosa gemme delle virtuose donne dore si vedono bellisimi lavori di ponto in aria1 reticella1 dimaglia e piombini disegnati da ,isabella ,catanea ,parasole4 ,e di nuovo dati in luce da ,luchino ,gargano con alcuni altri bellisimi lavori nuovamente inventate4 ,stampata in ,venetea ad instantia de ,luchino ,gargano ,,mdc4#aceh #aja4 ,sidenote3 #afbe4 ,rome4 ,i4 ,c4 ,parasole4 ,gemma pretiosa delle virtuose donne1 dore si vedono bellisimi lavori de ,ponti in ,aria1 ,reticella1 di ,maglia1 e ,piombini disegnatida ,isabella ,catanea ,parasole4 ,in ,rome1 appreso ,guliegno ,facciotti1 #afbe4 #ajb4 ,sidenote3 #afah4 ,frankfort on the ,mayn4 ,d4 ,meyer4 ,zierat ,buch1 von allerhandt ,kutschnur1 ,schleyer deckel1 ,krgen1 ,leibgrtel1 ,passmenten1 ,hndschug1 ,wehrgeheng und ,schubenehen1 ,messerscheyden1 ,secklen1 ,frchten1 ,blumen und ands4 mehr4 ,allen ,perlenbefftern1 ,nederin1 ,lehrinngen und andern welche lust zu dieser ,kunst tragen1 sehr ntzlich4 ,inn diese ,format zusammen ordiniert und gsetzt durch ,daniel ,meyer ,mahlern4 #aster ,theil4 ,franckfuhrt am ,mayn1 bey ,eberhardt ,kusern zu finden4 #aa ff41 #i plates4 ,translation4 ,decoration book of all sorts of ,cords1 ,veil covers1 ,collars1 ,belts1 ,laces1 ,gloves1 ,shoulder knots1 shoe-seams 7871 ,knife sheaths1 ,bags1 ,fruit1 ,flowers1 and other things besides4 ,very useful to all ,beadworkers1 ,seamstresses1 ,apprentices1 and others1 who take a pleasure or are fond of this art4 ,arranged and put into this form by ,d4 ,m4 ,m4 #ast part4 #ajc4 ,sidenote3 #afai4 ,leipsic4 ,a4 ,bretschneider4 ,new ,modelb7uch ,darinnen allerley kunstliche ,virsirung und ,mster artiger ,z7uege und schner ,bl7ummen zu zierlichen ,ueberschlagen1 ,haupt ,schurtz ,schn7uptchern ,hauben ,handschuhen1 ,uhren 787 gehenzen1 ,kampftern 7und dergleichen auf ,muhler naht und ,seidenst7ucker arbeit gantz ,kunstlich gemahlt #digund vorgerissen1 dergleichen sie bevorn noch nie in ,druck ausgegangen4 #af ,leipzicht #ai4 ,inn ,verleg7ung ,henning ,grosseren1 de ,j7ungeren ,andreas ,bretschneider ,mahller4#acei ,translation4 ,new pattern-book1 in which all sorts of artistic ornamentations and patterns of pretty stuffs and beautiful flowers for covers for ,head1 ,aprons1 and ,pocket-handkerchiefs1 ,caps1 ,gloves1 ,clock cases1 ,comb ,cases1 and such like1 artistically sketched from painter and silk embroiderer's work1 and which have never before gone out of print4 ,small folio1 #ec plates1 and half a sheet of text1 containing the dedication of the work to ,madame ,catherine von ,dorstats1 ne ,lser4 ,there appear to be #c plates wanting4 #ajd4 ,sidenote3 #afbd4 ,london4 ,a ,schole ,house for the ,needle4 #afbd4acfj ,obl4 #dto4 ,was sold at the ,white ,knight's sale for #c #aes4 #aje4 ,sidenote3 #afbj4 ,venice4 ,lugretia ,romana4 ,corona delle nobili et virtuose donne4 ,libro terzo4 ,nel quale si dimostra in varii dissegni tutte le sorti di ,mostre di punti tagliati e punti in aria1 punti ,fiamenghi1 punti a ,retcello1 e d' ogn' altra sorte1 ,cosi per ,fregi1 per merli e ,rosette1 che con ,aco si viano hoggidi per lutta l',europa4 ,e molte delle quali ,mostre porsono ,serviri ancora per opera ,mozzete4 ,con le dichiarationi a le ,mostre a' ,lavori fatti da ,lugretia ,romana4 ,in ,venetia1 appresso ,allessandro de ,vecchi1 #afbj4acfa #bg ff41 obl4 #hvo4 #ajf4 ,sidenote3 #afbe4 ,venice4 ,lugretia ,romana4 ,corona delle ,nobili et ,virtuose ,donne1 ,libro primo1 nel quale si dimostra in varij ,dissegni tutte le sorti di ,mostre di punti tagliati1 punti in ,aria1 punti ,fiamenghi1 punti a ,reticello1 e d' ogni altre sorte1 cosi per ,freggi1 per ,merli1 e ,rosette1 che con l' ,aco si usano per tutta l',europa4 ,e molte delle quali ,mostre possono servire ancora per opere a ,mazzete4 ,con le dichiarazioni a le ,mostre1 a ,lavori fatti da ,lugretia ,romana4 ,in ,venetia appresso ,alessandro de ,vecchi ,,mdcxxv4 ,si vendono in ,venetia al ,ponte de' ,baretteri alla libreria delle tre ,rose4#acfb ,lady ,wilton1 in her ,art of ,needlework1 quotes a copy dated #afbj4 ,obl4 #dto1 ff4 #bg4 ,portrait of ,maria d',aragon4 #dihajg4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,venice4 ,lucretia ,romana4 ,ornamento nobile1 per ogni gentil matrona1 dove si contiene bavari1 frisi d' infinita bellezza1 lavori1 per ,linzuoli1 ,traverse1 e ,facuoli1 ,piena di ,figure1 ,ninfe1 ,satiri1 ,grotesche1 ,fontane1 ,musiche1 ,caccie di ,cervi1 ,uccelli1 ed altri ,animali4 ,con ponti in aria1 fiamenghi1 et tagliati1 con ,adornamenti bellissimi1 da imperare1 per ogni ,virtuosa ,donna1 che si diletta di perfettamente cucire4 ,opera1 per ,pittori1 ,scultori1 e disegnatori giovevole alle lor professioni1 ,fatta da ,lucretia ,romana1 il quinto volume di ,suoi lavori4 ,dedicato alle ,virtuose donne1 in ,venetia4#acfc ,fol41 #bj plates4 ,frontispiece1 in point coup frame4 ,a woman in classic attire is represented under a ,doric porch1 standing on a tortoise1 symbol of a home-loving woman4 7,see ,no4 #gg47 ,she holds a ball of thread in her hand4 ,behind1 on the left1 are two women at work2 on the right1 a sculptor chiselling a statue of ,minerva4 ,the plates1 which are rich and beautiful1 are each accompanied by a short explanation1 as ,degna de esser portata de ogni imperatrice2 ,hopera bellissima che per il piu il ,signora ,duchesa et altre ,signore si servano per li suoi ,lavori2 ,questa bellissima ,rosette usano auco le gentildonne ,venetiane da far traverse1 etc4 7,fig4 #agc47 ,the bavari are executed in three different stitches3 punto d' aieri1 p4 flamingo1 and p4 tagliato4 ,this author and ,vecellio give ,flemish patterns 7punti ,fiamenghi74 ,they consist mostly of rosettes and stars 7gotico74 #ajh4 ,sidenote3 #afbc4 ,paris4 ,les excellents eschantillons1 patrons et modelles du ,seigneur ,federic de ,vinciolo ,venitien1 pour apprendre faire toutes sortes d'ouvrages de ,lingerie1 de ,poinct coupp1 grands et petits passements jour1 et dentelles exquises4 ,dediez la ,royne4 ,a ,paris4 ,chez la ,veufve ,jean le ,clerc1 ru ,sainct ,jean de ,latran1 la ,salamandre ,royalle4 ,avec ,privilege du ,roy1 #afbc4acfd ,in #dto1 #ef ff4 ,the old frontispiece and same ,avertissement4 ,dedication to the ,queen1 ,anne of ,austria4 ,the ,goddess ,pallas invented les ouvrages de lingerie1 le poinct coupp1 les grands and petits passements jour1 toutes sortes de dentelles1 tant pour se desennuyer que se parer1 par l'artifice de ses ingenieuses mains4 ,aracin s'y adonna1 and bien qu'inferieure se voulant comparer elle en venir l'experience1 mais sa presomption fut chastie4 ,many illustrious ladies have delighted in this honneste exercise4 ,fastrade and ,constance1 wives of the ,emperor ,charlemagne and of ,king ,robert1 s'employrent de cette manufacture1 de leurs ouvrages ornrent les glises les autels4 ,this royal mestier has reached perfection through the works of ,vinciolo4 ,i reprint and again increase his work1 which ,i dedicate to your ,majesty1 to whom ,i presume they will be agreeable2 the subject of which it treats is une invention de desse une occupation de ,royne--vous estant autant ,royne des vertus que vous l'estes de deux royaumes4 ,signed1 la ,veufve de feu ,iean le ,clerc4 ,same sonnet4 ,privilege for six years1 dated ,paris1 last day of ,march1 #afbc4 #ee ff41 #eh plates1 #bd ouvrages de point coupp and #h of ,passements au fuzeau 7see ,figs4 #ad and #ae71 and alphabet4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agc4 ,,bavaro ,,di ,,ponto ,d' ,,aere4--,con belissime figure ed altri flori4 ,,bavari4--,from ,ornamento mobile of ,lucretia ,romana4 ,to face page #dih4 #diiaji4 ,a ,schole ,howse for the ,needle4 ,teaching by sundry sortes of patterns and examples of different kindes1 how to compose many faire workes2 which being set in order and forme according to the skill and understanding of the workwoman will1 no doubt1 yield profit unto such as live by the needle and give good content to adorne the worthy4 ,london printed in ,shoe ,lane at the ,faulcon by ,richard ,shorleyker1 #afcb4 ,,to ,,the ,,reader4 ,gentle ,reader1 ,i would have you know that the ,diversities of ,examples which you shall find in this ,schoole-howse for the ,needle are only but patternes which serve but to helpe and inlarge your invention4 ,but for the disposing of them into forme and order of ,workes that ,i leave to your own skill and understanding4 ,whose ingenious and well practised wits will soe readily 7,i doubt not7 compose them into such beautiful formes as will be able to give content1 both to the workers and the wearers of them4 ,and againe for your behoafe ,i have in the end of this booke made two scales or checker patternes which by enlarging or contracting into greater or lesser squares you may enlarge or make lesser any of the saide patternes and examples in the booke or any other whatever4 ,,vale6 ,and because ,i would not have any one mistaken in any of these patternes contayned in this ,booke1 for some peradventure will look to find workes set out in order as they should be wrought with the needle or florished upon the ,tent1 c4 ,but as ,i have said before in the beginning of this ,booke1 that1 that is here published are only but diversitie of patternes1 out of which the workwoman is to take her choice of one or more at her pleasure and so have them drawne out into forme and order of worke4 ,of which skill if it may be ,i would have serving-men 7such as have time enough7 to practice and be skilful in which will be quickly learned if they would1 with a little patience applie their mindes to practise it4 ,a quarter of the time that they spend in playing at cards1 tables1 quaffing and drinking would make them excellent in this knowledge especially such as are ingenious and indued with good wits1 as for the most part all of them have2 ,againe it is a thing that no doubt would yield them both praise and profit1 beside the pleasure and delight it would be unto them1 and a good inducement to drawe on others of their own ranke and qualitie to the like practice and imitation4 #aaj4 ,sidenote3 #afcb4 ,london4 ,here followeth certaine patternes of ,cut-workes2 and but once ,printed before4 ,also sundry sorts of ,spots1 as ,flowers1 ,birds1 and ,fishes1 c41 and will fitly serve to be wrought1 some #ejjwith ,gould1 some with ,silke1 and some with ,gewell 7sic7 or otherwise at your pleasure4 ,london2 ,pinted 7sic7 in ,shoe-lane1 at the signe of the ,faulcon1 by ,richard ,shorleyker4 #afcb4acfe ,obl4 #dto4 ,the copy in the ,bodleian is probably due to the above4 ,it has no date and varies in title3 ,newly invented and never published before1 with crewell in coullers1 etc42 and ,never but once published before4 ,printed by ,rich4 ,shorleyker4 #cc patterns and title4 #aaa4 ,sidenote3 #afdj4 ,the needles excellency1 a new booke wherein are divers admirable workes wrought with the needle4 ,newly invented and cut in copper for the pleasure and profit of the industrious4 ,printed for ,james ,boler1 c41 #afdj4acff ,beneath this title is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower garden1 under the names of ,wisdom1 ,industrie1 and ,follie4 ,prefixed to the patterns are sundry poems in a commendation of the needle1 and describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their skill in needlework1 among whom are ,queen ,elizabeth and the ,countess of ,pembroke4 ,these poems were composed by ,john ,taylor1 the ,water ,poet4 ,it appears the work had gone through twelve impressions4444 ,from the costume of a lady and gentleman in one of the patterns1 it appears to have been originally published in the reign of ,james ,i4--7,douce47 ,from this description of the frontispiece1 it seems to be copied from ,sibmacher4 ,the ,needle's ,excellency1 or a new ,book of ,patterns1 with a poem by ,john ,taylor1 in ,praise of the ,needle4 ,london1 #afdj4 ,obl4 #dto1 engraved title1 and #bh plates of patterns4 ,sold1 #agga1 #f #ags4 #f;d4 7,lowndes1 ,bibliographer's ,manual4 ,new edit41 by ,h4 ,bohn74 ,another copy of the same date1 marked #abth edition1 is in the ,library of ,king's ,college1 ,cambridge4 ,it consists of title1 four leaves with the poem1 subscribed ,john ,taylor1 and #ca leaves of copper cuts of patterns4 #aab4 ,sidenote3 #afdb ,pistoja4 ,p4 ,a4 ,fortunato4 ,le ,pompe di ,minerva1 per le nobili e virtuose donne che con industriosa mano di trattenersi dilettano di far ,rezze1 maglia quadra1 punti in aria1 punti in tagliati1 punti a reticello1 cosi per fregio come per merletti e rosette di varie sorti1 si come oggidi con l'aco di lavorar usati per tutto l',europa1 arrichite di bellissimi et vaghi intagli cavati da pi celebri autori di tal professione4 ,in ,pistoja1 per ,piero ,a4 ,fortunato4 ,in #hvo obl41 dedicated to ,caterina ,giraldini1 in ,cellesi4 ,august #bj #afdb4acfg #ejaaac4 ,sidenote3 #afff4 ,nuremberg4 ,dass ,neue ,modelbuch von schnen ,ndereyen1 ,ladengewerk und ,soterleins arbeit4 ,ander theil4 ,nrnberg1 bey ,paulus ,frsten ,kunsthndler4 ,obl4 #dto1 #c sheets of text1 #ej plates4 ,dedicated to the ,princess ,rosina ,helena4 ,nrnberg1 ,march #bj1 #afff4acfh #aad4 ,in the ,bib4 ,imp4 7,gravures1 ,l4 h4 #d4 c47 is a vol4 lettered ,guipure1 gravures burin1 containing a collection of patterns engraved on copper1 #dc plates1 four of which are double1 pasted in the book1 without title or date4 ,pomegranates1 narcissus1 lilies1 carnations1 most of them labelled ,kreutzstick1 ,frantzsischenstick1 and ,fadengewrck 7thread work71 the number of stitches given1 with ,clocks 7,zwickel7 of stockings and other patterns4 #aae4 ,sidenote3 #afgf4 ,nuremberg4 ,c4 ,gerharts4 ,model ,buch1 dritter ,theil von unterschiedlicher ,vgeln1 ,blumen und ,frchten cte4 ,von und in ,verlegung ,rosina ,helena ,frtin4 ,nrnberg1 ,christoff ,gerharts1 #afgf4 #dto obl41 engraved title and printed list2 #db wood plates1 #d large4 #aaf4 ,sidenote3 #agbb4 ,paris4 ,methode pour faire une infinit de desseins differens1 avec des carreaux mi-partis de deux couleurs par une ligne diagnonale ou observations du pre ,dominique ,donat1 religieux carme de la province de ,touleuse sur une mmoire insere dans l'histoire de l',acadmie royale des sciences ,paris1 l'anne #agjd1 present par le ,rev4 ,pre ,sebastien ,truchet4 ,paris1 #agbb4acfi #gb geometric squares1 with directions how to make them useful to architects1 painters1 embroiderers1 tous ceux qui se servent de l'aiguille1 and others4 #aag4 ,sidenote3 #aghd4 ,nuremberg and ,leipzig4 ,christoph ,weigel4 ,neues ,neta- und ,strickbuch fur das schne ,geschlecht1 worinnen allerhand ,zierrathen1 wie auch viele neue ,zwickel1 nebst ,buchstaben und ,zahlen1 sowohl zum ,nhen als ,stricken in zierlichen ,nissen und ,mustern befindlich sind4 ,mit vielen ,kupfertafeln4 ,nrnberg und ,leipzig1 der ,christoph ,weigel und ,schneider4 #aghd4acgj #ejbaah4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,nuremberg4 ,f4 ,m4 ,helmin4 ,continuation der kunst- und fleisz-benden ,nadel-,ergtzung oder des neu ersonnenen besondern ,nehe-,buchs dritter ,theil1 worinnen fleiszige ,liebhaberinnen deeser nthig und ntzlichen ,wissenchaft1 ihr kunstliches ,nadel-,exercitium1 beij unterschiedlich vorfallenden ,belegenheiten zu haben allerhand noch nie vorgekomene ,muster zu ,deso gebrauch1 vorlegt und en die ,hand gegeben werden von ,fr4 ,margaretha ,helmin1 zu finden in ,nrnberg bei ,joh4 ,christoph ,weigel4 ,nrnburg4 ,no date4#acga ,oblong fol4 #aai4 ,sidenote3 ,n4 ,d4 ,nuremberg4 ,j4 ,chr4 ,weigel4 ,zierlich webende ,minerva1 oder neu erfundenes ,kunst- und ,bild-,buch der ,weber- und ,zeichner-,arbeit1 worinnen treue ,anweisung geschieht1 wie man kunstlich wirken und schne ,arbeit verfertigen soll1 von der vierschfftigen an1 bis auf zwey und dreissig-schafftige4 ,nurnberg 7,johann ,christoph ,weigel74 ,no date4#acgb #di plates in sheets4 #ejc;,,glossary ,,of ,,terms4 ,bars4 ,see ,brides4 ,bead ,edge4 ,a simple heading for pillow lace4 ,bobbins4 ,small elongated wooden or bone reels on which the thread is wound for the purpose of lace-making4 ,they are frequently ornamented with patterns pricked or stained1 and polished4 ,they are weighted with gingles or jingles 7i4e41 beads1 coins1 seals1 seeds1 or various articles74 ,brides4 ,a small strip or connection 7#a7 of threads overcast with buttonhole stitches1 or 7#b7 of twisted or plaited threads4 ,it is used instead of a ground-work of net2 the word is ,french1 its ,english equivalent being pearl-tie4 ,the ,french word is chiefly employed4 ,brides ornes brides ornamented with picots1 loops1 or pearls4 ,buttonhole ,stitch4 ,one of the chief stitches in needle-made lace2 also known as close stitch1 ,point nou1 and ,punto a ,feston4 ,cartisane4 ,a strip of parchment or vellum covered with silk or gold or metal thread1 used to form a pattern4 ,close ,stitch ,buttonhole stitch4 ,cordonnet4 ,the outline to ornamental forms4 ,the cordonnet consists 7#a7 of a single thread1 or 7#b7 of several threads worked together to give the appearance of one large thread1 or 7#c7 of a thread or horsehair overcast with buttonhole stitches4 ,in ,england called gimp4 ,couronnes4 ,ornaments to the cordonnet4 ,when they ornament the raised cordonnet in the body of the pattern they are known as fleurs volantes4 ,coxcombs ,bars4 ,dentl ,scalloped border4 ,droschel4 ,flemish word used in ,belgium for net-ground made with bobbins4 ,dressed ,pillow4 ,a term used by bobbin-lace makers to intimate that all accessories necessary are in their proper positions4#acgc #ejd;,edge4 ,there are two edges to lace2 the outer1 which in trimmings and flounces is either scalloped or ornamented with picots1 and the engrlure or footing4 ,engrlure ,footing1 or heading1 of a lace1 used to sew the lace on to the material it is to decorate4 ,entoilage4 ,french term for a plain mesh ground or galloon4#acgd ,fil de ,crin4 ,a thick or heavy outline or cordonnet4#acgd ,fil de ,trace4 ,the name by which the outlines of needle-made laces are distinguished4#acgd ,fillings4 ,a word occasionally used for modes or jours2 fancy stitches employed to fill in enclosed spaces in needle-made and bobbin laces4#acgd ,flax4 ,is composed of the filaments of the fibrous portion of ,linum usitatissimum1 an annual1 native of ,europe1 and from it linen thread is spun4 ,that of ,flanders is the best for lace-making4 ,fleurs ,volantes4 ,see ,couronnes4 ,fond4 ,identical with champ1 entoilage1 and treille4 ,the groundwork of needle-point or bobbin lace as distinct from the toil or pattern which it surrounds and supports4 ,grounds are divided into fonds claires1 brides claires1 and brides ornes4 ,the fond claires include the ,rseau or net-patterned grounds4 ,fond de ,neige is also known as ,oeil de ,perdrix4 ,fond ,simple4 ,sometimes called ,point de ,lille2 is the purest1 lightest1 and most transparent of all grounds4 ,the sides of the meshes are not partly plaited as in ,brussels and ,mechlin1 nor wholly plaited as in ,valenciennes and ,chioggia2 but four of the sides are formed by twisting two threads round each other1 and the remaining two sides by simply crossing of the threads over each other4 ,see ,grounds4#acgd ,footing4 ,see ,engrlure4 ,gimp4 ,the pattern which rests on the ground or is held together by brides4 ,the work should not1 however be confounded with the material gimp1 which was formerly called guipure4 ,in ,honiton and the ,midlands1 the word denotes the coarse glazed thread used to raise certain edges of the design4#acgd ,gingles4 ,a name given in ,buckinghamshire1 etc41 to the bunches of coloured beads hung on to bobbins by means of brass wire1 in order to give extra weight and so increase the tension of the threads4#acgd #eje;,groppo ,italian4 ,a knot or tie4 ,grounds4 ,the grounds of laces are divided into two classes1 one being called the bride1 the other the ,rseau4 ,the bride ground is formed with plain or ornamental bars1 in order to connect the ornaments forming the pattern4 ,the ,rseau ground is a net made with the needle or with bobbins1 to connect the ornaments forming the pattern4 ,guipure4 ,a lace-like trimming of twisted threads4 ,the word is now used to loosely describe many laces of coarse pattern4 ,guipure d',art is the name given to modern darned netting4#acge ,heading ,footing1 engrlure4 ,jours4 ,ornamental devices occurring in various parts of a piece of lace4 ,the earliest forms of jours may be seen in ,venetian point lace1 where they are introduced into the centre of a flower or other such device4 ,modes are identical with jours4 ,legs ,bars4 ,mat1 or ,math4 ,the closely-plaited portions of flowers or leaves in bobbin-made lace2 also the closely-worked portion of any lace4#acge ,modes4 ,see ,jours4 ,oeil de ,perdrix4 ,see ,fond4 ,orris4 ,a corruption of ,arras4 ,the term is now used to denote galloon for upholstering purposes4 ,in the eighteenth century it was applied to laces of gold and silver4#acge ,passement4 ,until the seventeenth century1 laces1 bands1 and gimps were called passements l'aiguille2 bobbin laces1 passements au fuseau4 ,at present the word denotes the pricked pattern on parchment upon which both needle-point and bobbin laces are worked4 ,passementerie4 ,now used for all kinds of fringes1 ribbons1 and gimp for dress trimmings4 ,pearls1 or ,purls ,bars4 ,pearl edge1 or ,purl edge4 ,a narrow thread edge of projecting loops used to sew upon lace as a finish to the edge4#acge ,pearlin1 or ,pearling ,scotch4 ,lace4 ,picot4 ,minute loops worked on to the edge of a bride or cordonnet1 or added as an enrichment to a flower--as in the case of rose point1 in which picots play an important part4 #ejf,pillow ,lace4 ,lace made on the pillow1 by twisting and plaiting threads4 ,the ,french term is dentelle au fuseau4 ,pizzo ,italian4 ,lace4 ,ply ,a single untwisted thread4 ,point ,lace4 ,lace made with the point of the needle4 ,the ,french term is ,point l'aiguille4 ,the term point has been misused to describe varieties of lace1 such as ,point d',angleterre1 ,point de ,malines1 etc41 which are laces made on the pillow1 and not with the point of the needle4 ,point de ,raccroc4 ,a stitch used by lace-makers to join rseau ground4 ,point ,nou ,buttonhole stitch4 ,point ,plat4 ,a ,french term for flat point executed without a raised cordonnet or outline cord4#acgf ,pricked4 ,the term used in pillow lace-making to denote the special marking out of the pattern upon parchment4 ,pricker4 ,a short instrument used in bobbin lace to prick holes in the pattern to receive the pins4#acgf ,punto a ,feston ,buttonhole stitch4 ,purls ,brides4 ,purlings ,a stitch used in ,honiton guipure to unite the bobbin-made sprigs4#acgf ,rseau4 ,ground of small regular meshes made on the pillow in various manners1 and made by the point of the needle in fewer and less elaborate manners4 ,the ,french term1 as here given1 is generally used in preference to any ,english equivalent4 ,rseau ,rosac4 ,see ,argentella 7,ch4 ,,argentan74 ,rouissage4 ,the process of steeping the flax preparatory to its being spun for lace-making4 ,rezl1 ,reseuil4 ,see ,,lacis1 ,chap4 ,,ii4 ,runners4 ,the name by which the bobbins which work across a pattern in bobbin lace are known4 ,sam cloth4 ,old name for a sampler4 #ejg;,,index ,aberdeen1 qualifications of schoolmistress of1 #dca n#abji ,aberdein1 ,mrs4 ,frank1 cited1 #djj n#aadj ,abrahat1 ,mrs41 pensioned by ,queen ,anne1 #cdg ,abrants1 ,duchesse d'1 #aje1 #abh n#cdc1 #ahe n#edb1 #ahf and n#ede1 #bcg n#fch ,abruzzi1 the1 lace-making in1 #fh ,addison1 cited1 #cdi ,addo1 ,marquis d'1 #dei n#abfd ,adelaide1 ,queen1 #dji and n#aaee1 n#aaef ,adlade de ,france1 #ahb ,adelhas1 ,queen 7wife of ,hugh ,capet71 #e ,agriculture1 women employed in1 lace-makers contrasted with1 #cgj ,aquesseau1 ,chancellor d'1 quoted1 #bfd ,alb lace1 at ,granada1 #ib ,albert1 ,archduke of ,austria1 #aac n#cbf ------ ,museum 7,exeter71 tallies in1 #gh n#bdb ,albissola1 lace manufacture at1 #ge1 #gg and n#bdj1 #gh1 #gi and n#bdf ,alcuid1 embroidery taught by1 #f ,alenches1 #bdi ,alenon numbers of lace-workers at ,chantilly and1 7#ahea71 #beg n#fhh1 refugees from1 in #ahth century1 #cdg --------1 ,duke d'1 #adj n#cie -------- lace 7see ,point d',alenon7 ,alice1 ,princess1 bridal dress of1 #dji ,almagro1 lace industry at1 #ajb and n#big1 #ajc n#cje ,aloe thread1 ,florentine use of1 #ic n#bgc ---- thread lace ,greek1 #hf ,italian1 #gi and n#bde ,portuguese1 #ajg ,spanish1 #ia1 #ic1 #ii1 #aja ,alost ,valenciennes1 ground stitch of1 #acc ,altar-cloths1 alternate designs on1 #bd ,bock collection1 in1 #bc ,prague1 at 7by ,anne of ,bohemia71 #i ,altar frontal in point cont1 7,mrs4 ,hailstone's71 #bc ,altenburg1 #bfh ,alva1 ,duke of1 #cff n#ajhe ,alvin1 ,m41 #dhj n#acbb ,amelia1 ,princess1 #abh ,america1 impulse given to lace industry by ,u4,s41 #ahg lace imported to1 from-- ,bailleul1 #bda ,england 7baby lace7 #che ,grammont1 #acd ,italy1 #ge1 #gi ,mirecourt1 #bec ,portugal1 #ajf ,saxony1 #bfc ,spain1 #ajb ,puritan lace-makers in1 #cgb n#ajii war with1 effect of1 on lace trade1 #djh ,amsterdam1 establishment of lace fabric at1 #bei ,anderson1 quoted1 #gd1 #hc1 #aja1 #abd1 #bga1bhh1 #cga n#ajic1 #chd1 #cif2 cited1 #bfd n#gji1 #bfe n#gac1 #bhf1 #cig --------1 ,lady1 robbery at house of1 #cdf ,angoulme1 ,duchesse d'1 #aif ,anne of ,austria1 influence of1 on ,french fashions1 #adg1 #aej ,mechlin veil of1 #abe-abf and n#cef pattern-book dedicated to1 #add1 #dih pilgrimage to ,thierzac1 #bdh presents of ,english lace from ,henrietta ,maria to1 #ccj and n#ifa1 #dja ---- of ,bohemia1 ,queen 7wife of ,richard ,,ii471 altar-cloth by1 #i ---- of ,denmark1 cost of lace of1 #cag and n#ijd1 #cbj and n#ibe ,elizabeth's old clothes presented to1 #cbj ,english home industries encouraged by1 #cai foreign lace purchased by1 #cbg funeral of1 #cbe and n#icd ---- of ,england 7,queen ,anne7 household management of1 #agd n#eaf ,mechlin lace of1 #abf and n#cfj period of1 #cdg-cej ,anspach1 #bfe --------1 ,margrave of1 #agh ,anti-,gallican ,society ,edinburgh and ,dublin ,societies contemporaneous with1 #dbi prizes awarded by1 #aai1 #bfb1 #big1 #cee and n#ajeh1 #cgd and nn1 #chj1 #cie1 #cih1 #djd records of1 cited1 #cgc ,antwerp book sale at 7#ahfd71 #dhb ,brussels lace made at1 #acj ,mechlin lace made at1 #abe -------- lace arrt concerning 7#afhh71 #abi n#cfe ,brussels lace compared with1 #aah first mention of1 #abi and n#cfg ,spanish market for1 #abi-acj -------- lace-makers1 in ,london 7#afah-afhh71 #abi n#cff ,anzola1 ,m41 #dgd ,application lace1 #abb2 flowers1 #beb ,appliqueuse1 work of1 #abb ,aprons1 laced1 #cji and n#hgc1 #cch1 #cef and n#ajfb ,aranda1 ,madame d'1 #ih n#bhj ,arbroath1 effigy formerly in church of1 #dah ,ardee1 braid and cord lace made at1 #ddf ,ardfert ,abbey1 lace shroud found at1 #dcf ,argentan1 #bjb and n#efi -------- lace4 ,see ,point d',argentan ,argentella1 #gh n#bdd1 #aic and n#eee ,argentine of ,dorset1 #caj n#hgg ,argyle1 ,duchess of4 ,see ,hamilton ,armada pattern lace of ,queen ,charlotte1 #cig ,armstrong1 ,mrs4 ,rachel1 #dch ,arnold1 ,e41 cited1 #dff1 #dfi n#abhf1 #dga n#abii ,arras early industries of1 #bci gold lace of1 #bdj lace industry of1 #bch-bdj lace of1 compared with that of ,lille1 #bce1 #bdj2 with that of ,mirecourt1 #beb number of lace workers 7#ahea71 #beg n#fhh ,arundel1 ,countess of1 #ab --------1 ,lady1 quoted1 #cie ,assizes1 ,maiden1 custom of presenting laced gloves at1 #ccg n#iia ,asti1 ,baroness ,a4 d'1 #gi ,athens1 white silk lace of1 #hf ,atterbury1 ,bishop1 lace smuggled in coffin of1 #cfa ,auberville1 ,m4 ,dupont1 exhibits by1 #eh2 cited1 #gh ,aubry1 ,felix1 quoted1 #acb n#cgf1 #afj n#dff1 #bbh n#fad1 #bca1 #beg n#fhh2 cited1 #ahd1 #bhe1 #bib ,audiganne1 ,a41 cited1 #bbh n#fad ,augsburg1 #bff1 #bfg ,augusta1 ,princess1 marriage of1 #cei ,aumale1 ,madame d'1 #ahc ,aurillac1 #aed1 #bdf-bej ,austria ,albert ,archduke1 #aac n#cbf ,anne of4 ,see ,anne lace of1 #bfh ,auto-da-f1 lace worn at1 #ajj ,auvergne ancient names preserved in1 #bdf n#feh lace exhibited 7#ahfg71 #bdf ,maltese guipures made in1 #hh mignonette made in 7#affe71 #ce number of lace-makers in 7#ahea71 #beg n#fhh petition of lace-makers in 7#agfg71 #fd thread used in1 #bde --------1 ,mgr4 de la ,tour d'1 #ahc ,auvray1 quoted1 #bbd n#faa ,avaux1 ,m4 le ,comte d'1 #aee ,avrillion1 ,mlle41 #agg n#ebf2 cited1 #ahd n#eda ,axmouth1 lace-workers of1 #dji n#aaeg ,aylesbury1 lace industry of1 #cgh1 #cgi ,baby lace1 #che ,babylon1 embroidery of1 #c ,backhouse1 ,james1 #cjj ,bacon1 ,lord1 #cah ,baden1 ,princess of1 #agh ,bailey's ,dictionary1 quoted1 #cjc n#hcj ,bailleul1 #bda and n#fdg1 #beg n#fhh ,baillie1 ,james1 #dcb ,baker1 ,robert1 #dcg ,baldachino in ,italian lace1 #ff ,ballad of ,hardyknute quoted1 #bd ,bamberg1 collection 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#cdh ,bedfordshire lace1 #hh1 #cge-cgg1 #che ,beds1 lace trimmings for1 #bg n#hd1 #ih and n#bhj ,beer 7,devon71 lace-workers at1 #dji and n#aaeg1 #daf n#aafi1 #dag and n#aaga ,beggars' lace1 #cd ,bguinage1 #abf1 #acj1 #acc ,ble1 ,prerie1 #add ,belev lace1 #bhc ,belgium 7,see also ,flanders and ,brabant7 lace industry 7,see also ,antwerp1 ,brussels etc47 application exported to ,france1 annual value of1 #beb centres of1 before #affe1 #dd n#add development of1 #ach female education in1 #aab-aac guipures made by1 #daj importance of1 #aab and n#cbd numbers employed in 7#ahfa71 #aab pillow lace4 ,see ,valenciennes ,valenciennes industry transferred to1 #bcb lace schools in1 #aac-aae linens and flax of1 #dje-djg pedlar lace-sellers in1 #dd and n#adc smuggling lace of1 into ,france1 #aaf thread1 fineness of1 #aai n#cci weaving of lace in fourteenth century in1 #aji ,bell1 ,mrs41 old lace of1 #chd ,bellire1 ,m4 de la1 #acj and n#cfh ,bellini1 lace in picture by1 #dg ,ben1 ,miss ,mary1 #cih ,beni ,hassan1 figures at1 #a ,beresford1 ,lord ,john ,george1 #ddc ,berkeley1 ,bishop1 quoted1 #cga n#ajib ,berlin1 number of lace fabrics in 7circ4 #afhe71 #bfd ,bernhardi1 ,n4 ,r41 cited1 #dig n#acei ,berry lace industry1 #bef ,berthe 7mother of ,charlemagne71 #e ,bertin1 ,mlle41 #aha ,bertini1 ,cav41 #dfb n#abgj ,bess of ,hardwick1 #aa ,bziers1 ,bishop of1 #aed1 #aee ,bible printed by ,quentell1 #dfj ,bidney1 ,miss ,jane1 #dji ,bigazzi1 ,m41 #dfh n#abic1 #dga n#acjj ,billament lace1 #dh and n#aei1 #bii and n#hag ,binche1 royal edict concerning1 #ace and n#cha ------ lace1 #aah1 #ace and n#chc1 #acf1 #bab ,bindoni1 ,g4 ,a41 #dga ,bingham1 ,lady1 #dci ,bisette 7bizette71 #cc and n#ajb1 #baj1 #bef ,bishops1 denouncement of ruffs by1 #caf-cag2 ruffs worn by1 #cah ,black lace ,caen fabric1 #bbe ,caen1 ,bayeux and ,chantilly1 similarity of fabrics of1 #bbf ,calvados1 #bbc ,chantilly fabric1 #bab-bae and n#ehd1 #bbf ,east ,flanders fabric1 #acd ,england1 imported to1 from ,low ,countries1 #aag n#ccj2 fashion introduced into1 #aec n#ddd2 ,lille fabric popular in1 #bcg fond d',alenon1 ground1 #bad ,france1 fashion introduced into1 #aec-aed ,le ,puy fabric1 #bde ,lige fabric1 #acg n#cia ,lille fabric1 #bcf1 #bcg loom-made1 #dcb n#abab masks of1 #agg ,saxony fabric1 #bfc ,turin1 at court of1 #aec n#dde ,blanche of ,lancaster1 #bhe n#gee ,blandford1 lace industry of1 #cdd1 #cif and nn1 #cig n#aacd ,blessington1 ,countess of1 lace collection of1 #cfi ,blois1 ,mlle4 de1 #afa-afb and n#dgb ,blonde de fil1 #cd and n#ajh1 #bcg ,blonde-workers1 wages of1 #bbe ,blondes ,almagro1 at1 #ajb n#big ,barcelona silk used for1 #ajc ,caen1 of1 #bbd ,catalonian1 #ajb ,england1 introduction of manufacture into1 in ,george ,,ii4's time1 #cef2 made at ,sherborne1 #cig ,french court1 at1 #ahb ,genoese manufacture of1 #ge ,le ,puy1 of1 #bde ,spanish1 #ajc n#cje ,vlay1 of1 #bdd white1 #bad ,bobbin lace 7,see also ,pillow lace7 ,belgian1 #abc bobbins used for1 #bif n#gih pillow lace a term for1 #cb point duchesse1 #abc royal inventories1 mentioned in1 #bie n#gig value of1 per oz4 7,queen ,elizabeth's time71 #bie n#gig ------ net ,english machine-made1 #ddg-dej ,france1 first made in1 #ahg ,bobbins description of1 #cb1 #cc1 #bie n#gie1 #cia and n#aabg ,honiton1 at1 #dae n#aaff long1 used for bobbin lace1 #bif n#gih materials used for1 #cb1 #gd n#bce number of1 #cc n#aja ,peniche1 at1 #ajf n#cad ,bock1 ,dr41 collection of1 #bc and n#gd1 #bd ,boenen1 ,g41 #caa ,bohemia1 modern lace of1 #bfb ,boileau1 quoted1 #aei ,boislaunay1 ,epoux ,malbiche de1 #bjf ,boke of ,curtasye1 quoted1 #bij ,bolbec lace1 #bah ,bolingbroke1 ,lord1 #cea ,bologna1 lace-making at1 #fh1 #ha n#bdh ,bonald1 ,cardinal de1 #ahc ,bone1 bobbins made of1 #gd n#bce ---- lace bobbin lace distinguished from1 #bif n#gih explanation of term1 #djj ---- pins 7,see also ,bobbins71 #bie n#gie ,bone-work1 why so called1 #bid ,bonzy1 ,monseigneur de1 #aed-aee ,books1 parchment patterns on covers of1 #gg ,boot tops1 #ade1 #aej ,bordeaux fair1 #dc n#acf ,borlase1 ,sir ,henry1 #cgh4 ,bosse1 ,abraham1 engravings by1 #adf1 #adg1 #adi ,bottles used as light reflectors1 #cij and n#aabe ,boufflers1 ,governor1 #bcf4 ,bourbon1 ,catherine de1 #add1 #dhb1 #did --------1 ,duchesse de1 extracts from the inventory of1 #abj n#cdd1 #abe n#ced1 #abh n#cfd1 #afb n#dge1 #afh n#dif1 #afi n#dig1 #agd n#eai1 #aie n#efj ,bourg-,argental1 #bbd ,bourges1 #e1 #bef --------1 ,archbishop of1 #aah and n#ccf ,bourgogne1 ,duc de1 #ii n#bhc ,bowdon1 ,miss1 #dag ,bowen1 ,emanuel1 quoted1 #dje ,bowes1 ,sir ,robert1 #ch1 #bih ,bowie1 ,j41 #dcj n#abjg ,bowll1 ,william1 #cjh4 ,boys as lace-makers1 #bfc1 #cgg1 #dac1 #dad ,brabant 7,see also ,belgium7 lace-workers from1 settled at ,tnder1 #bgd point de ,sedan1 attributed to1 #bed ,brabant lace4 ,see ,brussels1 ,mechlin1 etc4 ,braid1 lace a term used for1 #bf ------ lace 7,devonshire71 #dad n#aaef ------ and cord lace1 #ddf4 ,braidwork1 in imitation of ,spanish point1 #daj and n#aaei ,branscombe1 lace-workers of1 #dji n#aach ,brazil1 lace of1 #ajh4 ,brazza1 ,contessa di1 cited1 #ga n#bbb1 #ge n#bcg1 #gh n#bdd2 quoted1 #ge n#bcf2 lace school under direction of1 #ha n#bdh ,bremen1 refusal of1 to receive strangers1 #bfd ,brennar1 ,mr41 #ddb n#abcb ,brereton1 ,miss ,elinor1 #dch ,bretagne1 #bbi and n#fag ,bretschneider1 ,a41 #dif ,briattes1 ,jean-,ph41 #bbe n#fac ,bribes of lace1 #cea n#ajde ,bridal veils1 #gh ,bride ground4 ,see ,argentan ground4 ------ lace1 #cjb and n#hbi ,brides definition of1 #ca and n#ia ,milanese lace1 in1 #ge n#bcg ,spanish point1 in1 #eh thread guipures1 in1 #ci1 #dj vrai rseau the successor of1 #djf ,bridgewater ,baptist ,church1 manifesto of1 #djc and n#aadd ,britannia ,languens 7#afhj71 cited1 #ed and n#ahc1 #aib ,brittany1 #bbi and n#fag ,brithnoth1 exploits of1 in embroidery1 #f ,broderie des ,indes1 #bbi -------- de ,malines4 ,see ,mechlin lace ,brooks1 ,mr41 speech of1 quoted1 #cbi4 ,brotherton1 ,mr41 invention of lace loom by1 #dcb n#abab ,brown1 ,rawdon1 cited1 #cde n#ajbe ,bruce1 ,mr4 ,collingwood1 cited1 #f ,bruges collection of lace at1 #ach export trade with ,france1 value of1 #bda guipure de ,flandres of1 #abc1 #acc ,valenciennes made at1 character of1 #bcb n#fbd ,brunet1 ,h41 cited1 #afa n#dgb1 #bcf n#fcc1 #dei1 #dfa1 #dgf2 quoted1 #dff ,brunfaut1 ,m4 ,duhayon1 #aca and n#cgd ,brussels lace ,alenon1 #bjj application1 rivalry of ,mirecourt1 #beb arrt concerning 7#afhh71 #abi n#cfe branches of industry1 #abc ,brussels the only place for1 #aah colour of1 #aba compared with-- ,alenon1 #aii2 ,binche1 #ace2 ,lille1 #bcg2 point de ,france1 #aid2 ,st4 ,trond1 #acg2 ,saxony needle point1 #bfc ,cretan mesh work compared with1 #hg designing of1 #abb ,english ,court fashion for1 in ,george ,,ii4's time1 #ced exported as ,english point1 #aag flowers of1 #aba grounds of1 #abj2 ,mechlin ground distinguished from1 #abe ,honiton imitations of1 #dje1 #djf1 #daj made at ,antwerp1 #acj2 at ,chimay1 #ace manufacture described1 #ca1 #aah1 #aai2 titles of workers of various processes in1 #abb ,marie ,louise1 ,empress1 presented with1 #abd patterns of1 #abb2 date of earliest patterns1 #aaf point de ,bruxelles4 ,see ,point d',angleterre popular establishment for ,english buyers1 #abd price per pound1 #aai n#cci2 causes of high price1 #aah1 #aai2 comparative cost of ground1 #abj2 price of flounce of1 #abd n#ceb thread used in1 #aah and n#cch2 fineness of #aai n#cci value of1 from one pound of flax1 #abj2 intrinsic value of1 #abd n#ceb veil of1 presented to ,empress ,josephine1 #abc n#cea2 smuggled1 #cfa ,venetian wear of1 #eg and n#aib -------- -lace-makers1 point de raccroc of1 #abj -------- net1 #abj n#cde ,bruyel1 ,nicholas de1 #aaa ,buckingham1 ,duchess of1 #cde n#ajbd ,buckinghamshire lace1 #cgh-chc2 value of1 #djb ,buffon1 ruffles of1 #agc ,bulgarini1 ,francesea1 #fh and n#bac ,bullock1 ,consul1 quoted1 #hi ,bunt lace1 #dbh ,buoy1 lace seized in1 #cfj n#ajff ,burano ,alenon point made at1 #fb1 #bjj ,argentan made at1 #fb1 #bjh ,english thread used at1 #cid n#aabh number of lace-workers at1 #cid n#aabh revival of lace industry at1 #eh-fb ,burato1 #ec ,burgoigne1 #bje n#egc1 #baf n#eid ,burgundy1 lace industry of1 #bee and n#fhd1 n#fhe2 lace-makers from1 in ,london1 #cgc --------1 ,duke of 7,charles the ,bold71 #aaa --------1 ,dukes of1 inventory of1 quoted1 #hb --------1 ,duchess of1 #afg n#dib ,burke1 ,patrick1 #cbc ,burnet1 ,bishop1 quoted1 #ac ,burnham 7,buckinghamshire71 lace industry of1 #cgi ,burning of badly-spun yarn1 #dcb and n#abaa ,butterfly and acorn design1 #cjh1 #djh ,byas1 #bii and n#hae ,byzantine ,empire1 origin of lace traced to1 #de ,cabanillas1 cited1 #ajb ,cadenetas1 #ie ,calderwood1 ,mrs41 cited1 #abg1 #dca2 quoted1 #aah and n#ccg1 #acg1 #bfj2 ,dresden ruffles of1 #bfb ,caen black lace of1 #bbf blonde lace of1 patterns1 #bbd2 quality1 #bbd2 rise and fall of industry1 #bbe ,chantilly industry outrivalled by1 #bae2 ,chantilly made at1 #bbd number of lace-makers employed in 7#ahdg71 #bbe2 7after #ahdh71 #bbh n#fad price of lace of1 #bbd ,cahanet1 #bbf ,calais1 machine-made blondes of1 #bbe ,calepino1 ,t41 #dgd ,callot1 engravings of1 #adf ,calthorpe1 ,lady1 #cg1 #big ,calvados lace industry1 #bac1 #bbc1 #bbf1 #bbh and n#fad1 #beg n#fhh ,cambray1 ,archbishop of1 #agc and n#ejh ,cambrensis1 ,giraldus1 cited1 #dce ,cambury1 ,lord1 #djc ,campan1 ,mme4 de1 #ahj n#ecc ,campane1 #cd and n#ajd1 n#ajf1 #ea ,campanner1 #cdc n#ajag ,campany1 cited1 #ii ,campos1 ,father ,fr4 ,marcos ,antonio de1 quoted1 #ie ,candy1 thread lace from1 #ch ,canetille1 #cf ,canons1 #aec and n#dda ,canossa1 ,contessa1 #dfi ,cant1 ,miss ,anne1 #dcj n#abjg ,cantor ,lectures on the ,art of ,lace-making1 cited1 #b n#g ,cantu1 lace-making at1 #ff1 #hj ,capefigue1 quoted1 #aff ,card-sharping aided by ruffles1 #aga1 #cea ,cardinals1 #cef and n#ajei ,cardwell1 ,mr41 #chd ,carew1 ,sir ,g41 #cjh n#hgj ,carpaccio1 lace in pictures of1 #dg ,carpentier1 ,madame1 #bbf ,carrno1 lace rare in paintings of1 #ih ,carrickmacross1 lace industry at1 #ddj ,carrouges1 #bjf ,cartisan1 #cf ,cary1 ,john1 quoted1 #hdi n#acbe ,castanaga1 ,m4 de1 #afg ,castlebar1 lace industry at1 #dci ,catalonia1 blonde made at1 #aja2 blonde mantillas of1 #hh1 #bbf ,catgut lace1 #cdc1 #dcj n#abjg ,catherine de ,bourbon1 #add1 #dhb1 #did ---------- of ,braganza1 #dc n#acg ---------- de ,mdecis1 bed of1 #bb bizette of1 #cc n#ajb ,florentine lace probably introduced into ,france by1 #fg lace-making at court of1 #adj and n#cie needlework of1 #aa ,vinciolo patronised by1 #aa1 #ag ,cattern's ,day1 #cgf ,cauellat1 ,veuve1 #dgf ,cavenne1 ,citoyen1 #acg n#cij ,cayette1 ,v4 ,p41 cited1 #adj n#cig ,cecil1 letter from1 regarding ,french tailors1 quoted1 #cjg ,cecyll1 ,richard1 #bia ,celle1 ,d41 #dff ,cephalonia1 ,ionian lace at1 #hf ,cerceau1 ,a4 du1 #dgf ,ceylon1 pillow-laces of1 #hh ,challus1 ,anne1 #ahd n#edj ,chambrires1 #h ,champagne1 lace industry of1 #bec-bee ,chandos1 infant daughter of ,duke of1 #ceb n#ajdf --------1 ,lady1 #bid n#gia1 #big n#haa1 #cjg n#hfb1 #cjh n#hfg ,channel ,islands1 lace industry in1 #cgb n#ajih ,channon1 ,miss ,mary1 #cih ,chansons a toile1 #h and n#bi ,chantilly number of lace-workers at ,alenon and1 7#ahea71 #beg n#fhh point tresse made at1 #cad ---------- lace black1 #bbf ,caen manufacture of1 #bbd ,genoese imitation of1 #ge industry of1 #bab-bae ,saxony lace compared with1 #bfc ,spanish silk laces contrasted with1 #ajc ,spanish and ,portuguese imitation of1 #ajf ,charles ,i4 7,england7 ,carisbrook clothing expenses of1 #cgb n#ajig carpet bag trimmings of1 #ch1 #bih extravagance of1 #cbf1 #cbg and n#iej1 #cbh ,great ,wardrobe ,account1 quoted1 #bec and n#fgh1 n#fgi1 #bje n#fab marriage accounts1 #bif period of1 #cbf-ccb picture catalogue of1 cited1 #bif -------- ,,ii4 7,england7 ,collobium sindonis of1 #cce and n#iha ,flanders lace1 importation of1 prohibited by1 #abe foreign lace imported by1 #ccf and n#ihe period of1 #cce-cci silver parchment lace of1 #ch1 #bih and n#hda --------1 ,prince 7,england71 accounts of1 cited1 #cbb1 #cbe n#idj1 n#ida -------- ,v4 7,belgium7 cap of1 #aac lace-making encouraged by1 #aac portrait of1 in ,quentell's pattern book1 #dei -------- ,,viii4 7,france71 #aci n#cic -------- ,,ix4 7,sweden71 #bgi -------- ,x41 #adc n#dab -------- the ,bold1 #aaa ,charleville lace1 #ahc n#eci1 #bed and n#fhj ,charlotte1 ,queen ,armada pattern lace of1 #cig ,british lace worn by1 #cfc1 #cih favourite lace of1 #abh lace industry started by1 #cgd sponsor to children of aristocracy1 #ceb n#ajdf ,charmouth1 lace-workers at1 #cie ,charollais1 ,mlle4 de1 inventory of1 quoted1 #abe n#cec1 #abi n#cfd1 #afb n#dge1 #age n#ebj1 #ace ruffles of1 #bcc n#fbf ,chat1 #aha and n#ecf ,chteau de ,madrid1 lace factory at1 #aeh1 #baj and n#ehd -------- -,renaud lace1 #bed -------- -,thierry1 lace industry at1 #aeg n#dei1 #bec ,chtel-sur-,moselle1 #bea and n#fga ,chtelain1 ,simon1 #ajj and n#bhg ----------1 ,zacharie1 #bei ,chaucer1 quoted1 #ae and n#ej ,chaumont1 #bea n#fgc ,chauvin1 ,pierre1 #bcj ,cheney1 lace industry at1 #chd ,chesterfield1 ,lord1 quoted1 #ceh ,cheveux de la reine1 #aha and n#ece ,chevreuse1 ,madame de1 #afh ,cheyne lace1 #dch ,chiavari ,macram of1 #gi tape guipure of1 #ge ,chicago ,exhibition4 ,see under ,exhibitions ,chichester1 ,lady ,hamilton1 #hg and n#bfb ,chick1 ,mrs41 #djg n#aaec ,chigi-,giovanelli1 ,princess1 #fa ,children as lace-makers1 #ajc n#cje1 #ajg1 #aee1 #bji1 #cgg1 #dch ,chili lace1 #ajh ,chimay lace1 #acd-ace ,china drawn work of1 #df silk lace not in demand in1 #hi ------1 lace exchanged for1 #cdi ,chosy1 ,abb de1 #afg ,christening shirts of ,queen ,elizabeth's reign1 #cjh and n#hgb ,christian ,,iv4 of ,denmark1 #fh1 #bgb-bgd ,christina1 ,queen1 #gc n#bcj ,church of ,england appointment of parsons of1 for reform of lace-making abuses1 #cca inventories of1 lace mentioned in1 #bic ruffs worn by ,bishops1 #cah2 sermons against ruffs1 #caf ------ of ,france1 extravagance of prelates 7,louis ,,xvi471 #ahb-ahc ,churchill1 ,lord1 #djc ,cibber1 ,colley1 cited1 #cdd n#ajba ,cicognara1 ,count1 #dfg and n#abhf ,ciglia family1 ,maltese lace made by1 #hh ,cinq ,mars1 boots and collarette of1 #ade ,ciprioto1 #hb n#beb ,cistercians1 #g ,city ,match1 quoted1 #cbd ,clarke1 ,jane1 #ddc n#abcc ,claver1 ,alice1 #bhh ,clayton1 ,sir ,thomas1 accounts of1 quoted1 #cej ,clement ,,vii41 ,pope1 #fb -------- ,,ix41 ,pope1 #gj -------- ,x41 ,pope1 #agb n#eje ,clment1 ,m41 #bbf ,clermont1 ,mlle4 de1 inventory of1 quoted #abh n#cfc1 #aie n#efj1 #bjg n#egh ,clonard ,abbey1 effigy in1 #dcg n#abbb ,clones1 lace and crochet industry of1 #dde ,cluny1 ,muse de1 punto a relievo in1 #ea ------ lace ,le ,puy ,fabric1 #bdf n#fei ,mirecourt fabric1 #beb ,coccolia1 lace school at1 #ha n#bdi ,cochon1 cited1 #bef n#fhf ,cock 7fontange71 #dbc ----1 ,hieronymus1 #dic n#aced ,cockscombes1 #cdd ,code ,michaud1 #adh ,coggeshall 7,essex71 lace made at1 #dda n#abcj ,coigny1 ,duchesse de1 #abc n#cea ,col rabattu1 #ade 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cap in ,museum at1 #cdj and n#ajjd ,duponchel 7,du ,ponchel71 #bje1 #bjg n#egf ,dupont1 ,m41 cited1 #bjd ,duras1 ,duc de1 #bjg n#egg ------1 ,duchesse de1 #bac and n#eia ,duref ,henri1 cited1 #bdg ,durham1 ,st4 ,cuthbert's cope and maniple at1 #g2 his grave-clothes1 #ad1 #ae1 #cff ,durie1 ,lord1 engraving of1 #dbc ,dussen1 ,b4 v4 d41 cited1 #acc and n#cgh ,duthie1 ,mlle41 #aha ,duval1 ,m41 #bbd ,dysart1 ,countess of1 #cdd n#iia ,each1 #cia ,eagle 7,french vessel71 seizure of1 #aja ,earnings and wages of lace-workers ,alenon1 #aib ,arras 7#aghh71 #bci2 7#ahea71 #bdj ,bedfordshire1 #cgg blonde-workers1 #bbe ,denmark 7#ahdh71 #bgg n#gda ,devonshire1 #dad1 #daf n#aafh2 ,honiton1 #djg and n#aaec ,dorsetshire1 #cih ,flemish thread-spinners'1 #aai ,france1 average 7#ahea71 #beg n#fhh2 their savings1 #aei n#dfd ,genoa1 #gg1 #gh ,mechlin1 #abg ,mirecourt1 #beb n#fge1 #bec ,normandy1 #bbc1 #bbh n#fad ,northamptonshire 7,spratton71 #cij ,scotland1 #dcd ,spain1 #ajb ,switzerland1 #bgj ,val1 #bcc1 #bcd n#fbg ,vlay1 #bdd ,ypres ,valenciennes1 #aca n#cgc ,eaton1 ,john1 #ccf ------1 ,prestwick1 letters from1 cited1 #ih n#bhb ,ecclesiastical lace ,athenian--for ,jewish ,church1 #hf ,burano school allowed to copy1 #fb decline of1 since the ,reformation1 #cca ,greek1 #hc ,ionian1 #hf ,italian1 #dg and n#aed ,katherine of ,aragon's work of1 #cgf and n#aajh ,maltese1 #hh ,scotch1 #dah1 #dai ,spanish1 #ij1 #ib washing of1 #cgc n#aaja ,ecouen lace1 #baj n#ehi ,eden1 ,mrs41 #ddc ,edgithe1 ,queen1 #f ,edict of ,nantes1 ,revocation of effect on lace industry 7,france and other countries71 #aib1 #bab1 #bed1 #beh settlement of fugitives in ,germany1 #bfd-bfe ,edinburgh ,society for ,encouraging the ,arts and ,manufactures of ,scotland1 #bfb1 #bfc1 #dbi1 #dcj and nn ,edward the ,elder1 daughters of1 #f ,edward ,,iii4 pins for his daughter's trousseau1 #bid n#gid thread veils of time of1 #bhe4 ,edward ,,iv4 ,irish smock of1 #dcf wardrobe accounts of1 quoted1 #bhh ,edward ,,vi41 funeral lace of1 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#bde 7#ahei7 7,french74 ,report--cost of ,brussels lace1 #aai n#cci 7#ahfb7 7,international7 ,spanish exhibits at1 #ajc-ajd threads1 comparative fineness of1 #aai n#cci ,wadstena lace at1 #bhj #ahfg 7,paris7 ,alenon point dress at1 #bjj ,burano laces at1 #eh ,honiton lace at1 #daj macram shown at1 #gi ,mechlin lace at1 #abe oyah at1 #hg point gaze at1 #abc ,valenciennes lace at1 #aca and n#cgc #ahgd 7,international7 ,austrian lace at1 #bfh ,brussels lappet at1 #daa ,russian towels at1 #bhc ,valenciennes lace at1 #aca #ahhi1 point d' ,alenon at1 #bja #aijj 7,paris71 #bfh ,eyesight1 effect of lace-making on1 #aab n#cbd ,fairfax1 ,sir ,thomas1 #ccc ,fairs1 #dc and n#acf1 n#acg1 n#adj1 #cbf n#ide ,falbala1 #afg and n#dib ,falcon1 ,t41 #bdf ,fallals1 #cej and n#ajdc ,falling bands1 #cba n#ibh1 #cbb1 #cbf1 #cbg1 #ccd1 #ccf ,fambri1 ,signor1 #fa ,fameuse poupe1 #agj ,fanciulle1 #dfb ,fanshaw1 ,lady1 quoted1 #ccc ,farbeck1 ,john1 #cjj ,favier-,duboulay1 correspondence of1 with ,colbert1 re lace industry at ,alenon1 #aee and n#ded1 #ahi ,feather-stitch1 #h ,fcamp lace1 #bah ,flibien1 ,d4 ,m41 quoted1 #ada n#djb ,flice1 ,g4 de1 quoted1 #aej n#dcg ,flin ,narciso1 quoted1 #ia1 #ii ,felkin1 ,mr41 cited1 #ddg ,ferdinand and ,isabella of ,spain1 #ib1 #ic1 #if ,feret quoted1 #bai and n#fjd ,ferguson1 ,mr41 cited1 #bej and n#ffe ,fernandez1 ,don ,manuel1 #ajb ,ferrara archives of1 quoted1 #df and n#aej ,venetian lace-worker at1 #gh n#bdc ,fielding quoted1 #ced n#ajec ,filet brod reprises1 #bj ,fillesae1 ,marie1 #aeg n#deh ,fillings1 #ca ,filo di freta 7,see also ,aloe thread71 #gi n#bde ,firenzuola cited1 #df n#aeb1 #dg1 #eg n#agb2 quoted1 #ff and n#bjg ,fisher1 ,bishop1 #bib ,fitz-,geoffrey 7,geffery71 ,henry1 quoted1 #cag n#ijh1 #ccb ,flanders emigration of lace-makers from1 preventive legislation1 #aaa-aab2 emigrants in ,london1 #cgc2 in ,bedfordshire and ,buckinghamshire1 #cge and n#aaje2 in ,devonshire1 #cii and nn1 #djj n#aadj2 expelled from ,england 7#aegb71 #cjf lace4 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at1 #afb n#dge ,foote1 quoted1 #aga n#ejc ,footing1 #ca1 #afh n#dif ,forbes1 ,miss ,betsey1 #dcb n#abji ,forade1 ,m4 de la1 cited1 #cdj n#ajjd ,force1 ,p4 de la1 cited1 #bed and n#fhb ,foresto1 ,i41 #dga ,fortunato1 ,p4 ,a41 #ejj ,foskewe1 ,sir ,john1 #bb ,four ,p's1 ,the1 cited1 #dc n#aci ,fournier1 quoted1 #bji n#ehc ,fourpenny ,spot1 #cgb n#ajie ,fowke1 ,mr41 cited1 #f and n#bc ,fowler1 ,mrs41 lace school of1 #daf and n#aafi ,fozzi1 ,p4 ,p41 #dia ,france4 ,for districts1 towns1 etc41 see their titles bobbin net introduced into1 #ahg customs of ,french ladies1 #afh-agj tats ,gnraux 7#aghi71 action of1 regarding lace1 #ahc extravagant cost of lace ornaments 7,louis ,,xiv471 #aec ,fairs in1 #dc n#acf ,fashions fashion dolls1 #agj and n#ejj1 n#eja ,italian influence on1 #aci and n#cic ,louis ,,xiv41 under1 #afg first appearance of lace in1 #aci n#cic ,first ,empire ,brussels lace at court of1 #abc lace industry under1 #ahd morning costume under1 #ahe point d',alenon patterns under1 #aii 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,garnica1 ,john de1 #aac n#cbe ,garnier1 ,joseph1 cited1 #bee n#fhe ,garnitures de lit1 #agd and n#eai1 n#ebj ,garters ,queen ,elizabeth's cost per pair1 #cja trimmed with point1 #ade ,gaston1 ,duke of ,orleans1 #h n#bg ,gaudronnes collerettes1 #ag ,geneva1 rivalry of1 with ,mirecourt1 #beb ,genoa ,albergo de' ,poveri1 macram made at1 #gi collars of1 #gd earnings of lace-workers1 #gg1 #gh embroidered lace of1 #gg2 embroidered tulle1 #bbi gold work of1 #dg1 #gb guipures of1 #gd lace of ,cardinal ,mazarin's purchase of1 #aej1 #aea ,honiton reproduction of1 #daa point de ,gnes1 #da1 #db1 #gb1 #gc and n#bcj1 #gd ,queen ,elizabeth's1 #cjg and n#hfe lace trade in1 chiefly pillow1 #dg1 #gd2 decline of1 #gd silk work of1 #gb sumptuary laws in1 #gc ,tessada1 ,signore1 old lace of1 #gb n#bbe ,genoa1 ,duchess of1 #gh n#bdd ,gentili family1 bridal veil made for1 #gh ,geometrical patterns cuffs of 7,queen ,mary's71 #aac ,cretan1 #hf ,greek lace1 #bj1 #he ruffs of1 #caf ,swedish1 #be ,vecellio's1 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,duchesse de1 #bce ,nesmond1 ,marquis de1 #aag and n#cca ,netherlands4 ,see ,flanders1 ,belgium1 ,holland and ,brabant ,netting1 #bj1 #ba1 #eb2 machine net1 #djh ,neufchtel lace industry1 #bgj and n#gbf ,neville1 ,mary1 marriage clothes of1 #bia n#ggi ,new ,ross convent1 lace made at1 #ddd ,newport ,pagnel lace1 #cge n#aaje1 #cgh1 #chb1 #chd ,newton1 ,rev4 ,john1 letter from ,cowper to1 #cgi ,nicholas1 ,edward1 #cbi n#ieg -------- ,susanne1 #cbi n#ieg ,nichols1 quoted1 #bid n#gia1 #cjc n#hcc ,nicolas1 ,etienne1 #afj n#dff ,night caps1 #cbc ,noailles1 ,madame de1 anecdote of1 #ahj n#ecc ,normanby1 ,lady1 #dda ,normandy lace industry of4 7,see also ,calvados and ,dieppe7 centres of1 #baf1 #bah ,french ,revolution1 effect of1 #bbc mignonette made 7#affe71 #ce numbers employed in different localities1 #bbh n#fad2 7#ahea71 #beg n#fhh value of1 #bbh n#fad peasant women1 ,valenciennes bought by1 #bce ,norris1 ,sir ,henry1 #cjg ,northamptonshire lace1 #chd-cic ,nosegays1 lace trimmings for1 #ee ,nottingham lace1 #dda2 ,isle of ,wight lace compared with1 #cgb n#ajig2 machine-made blondes1 #bbe2 imitation mantillas1 #bbg ,novgorod1 fabric at1 #bhc ,nuns1 lace washed by1 #cgc and n#aaja ---- as lace-makers ,flanders1 #ced ,italy1 #dg and n#aed2 ,burano1 #eh2 ,florence1 #fg1 #fh2 ,cantu1 #hj ,portugal1 #aje1 #ajg ,spain1 #ic ,nuremberg1 #bff1 #bfg ,oberkirch1 ,baroness de1 extract from ,memoires of1 #ahb ,o',brien1 ,mrs4 ,r4 ,v41 #ddb ,o',hagan1 ,mother ,abbess1 #ddc ,o',halloran1 ,mr41 #dcf ,old lace indifference to1 #cfh and n#ajij mania for1 #cfi restoration of1 #daa1 #dab ,oldfield1 ,mrs41 #cfg ,olney1 lace industry of1 #cgh1 #chj n#aaai ,opus tract1 #cjb ,orfreys1 #c n#ac ,orlans1 ,duchesse d'1 quoted1 #aff n#dhi -------- ,dukes of1 inventories of1 quoted1 #abj n#cdb1 n#cdd1 #bba and n#fjg ,orlanois lace industry1 #bef ,orsa lace1 #bha ,ostans1 ,giovanni1 #dhd ------ ,jean1 #dge ,oudenarde lace1 #acd ,our ,lady of ,la ,solidad1 costly robes of1 #ij --- ---- of ,loreto1 laces of1 not described1 #fi ,overbury murder1 #cag ,oxford1 opinion of1 on falling bands1 #cbf ------ ,countess of1 #i n#ca ,oyah 7,turkish crochet71 #de1 #hg ,pagan1 ,mathio1 #dfh1 #dga ,paganino1 ,alessandro1 #dfh ,paganinus1 ,p4 ,a41 #dgb ,paget1 ,lady1 #bie ,pagodes1 #afh n#dif ,paintings1 earliest in which lace occurs1 #dg2 lace in paintings of #ahth century1 #bbb1 #cfd ,palatine1 ,count1 #cbf -------- ,madame1 #afh2 ,memoires of1 quoted1 #agh ,pale of rose point1 #ea and n#agd ,palermo grave clothes at1 #cff and n#ajha sculptured lace in villa near1 #ga ,palestine1 lace-making at1 #ei and n#aie ,pandore1 la grande1 #agj ,parasole1 ,elisabetta ,catanea1 #die -------- ,isabella ,catanea1 #dia1 #dif ,parchment lace1 #cg and n#abb1 #ch and n#abf1 n#abi1 n#aca1 #big1 #bih ,paris churches1 lace of1 #abj n#cdb1 #afa n#dfg1 n#dfi ,english laces in demand at 7#aghh71 #cfh1 #cgi exhibitions4 ,see under ,exhibitions lace industry ,binche and ,mirecourt flowers applied at1 #bab ,bisette made 7#affe71 #cc and n#ajb commerce of lace under ,louis ,,xiv1 #baa and n#ehg ,dumont's fabric1 #baa factories round1 #bji guipures made 7#affe71 #cf and n#aad mignonette made 7#afee71 #ce numbers employed 7#ahea71 #beg n#fhh passementiers privileged in1 #dd pattern books in1 #ab and n#dc ,parisini1 ,agostino1 #dgg ,partlet1 #big n#haj ,pasax1 ,marquis de1 #aij ,pasini1 ,tomaso1 #dhc ,pasment in ,scotland1 #dah ,pasolini1 ,countess1 #ha n#bdh ,passament 7passement7 definition of term1 #bf and n#gi1 #bg guipure a kind of1 #cf references to1 #bg-bi ,passement ,bond1 ,the1 #dai ,passerotti1 ,aurelio1 #dgb ,pattern-books ,belgium ,antwerp 7n4 d471 #acj1 #dfc ,lige 7#aeig71 #acf1 #dhh cut-works1 of 7#aeia71 #bj n#fb earliest dated1 #ah2 earliest known1 #cgf n#aajh ,england ,london 7#aeia71 #dhb2 7#afbd71 #dig2 7#afcb71 #dii2 7#afdj71 #ejj ,northampton1 #chd ,france ,lyon 7n4 d471 #ib n#bfi1 #dfe1 #dff2 7#aedi7 #ib n#bfi1 #add1 #dfd2 7#aeha71 #dge ,mignerak's1 #ba1 #bb1 #bi1 #add1 #dic ,montbliard 7#aeih71 #bh1 #dhi1 #dij ,paris1 in ,bibliothque ,impriale1 #ab n#dc2 in ,st4 ,genevive's library1 #ab2 7n4 d471 #dfh2 7#aecj7 #add1 #dfa2 7#aedf71 #dfd2 7#aefd71 #dge2 7#aehd71 #dgf2 7#aehg71 #ag1 #ah1 #dgg2 7#aehg1 #aehh1 #aeie1 #afjf71 #dgi-dha2 7#afja71 #bj n#fb1 #dij2 7#afje71 #dic2 7#afac71 #did2 7#afbc71 #dih2 7#agbb71 #eja ,germany ,augsburg 7#aecd71 #bfg1 #dfb ,cologne 7#aebg71 #bfh1 #dei ,frankfort 7n4d471 #dgj2 7#aecg71 #dgj ,frankfort-on-the-,maine 7#aefh1 #aefi1 #aega71 #dgj2 7#afje71 #bfg1 #dia2 7#afjg71 #dib2 7#afah71 #dif ,leipsic 7#afai71 #dif ,lindau am ,bodensee 7n4d471 #dhh ,nuremberg 7n4d47 #ejb2 7#aeig71 #dhi2 7#afja1 #afjd71 #bff1 #dij2 7#afff71 #eja2 7#afgf71 #eja ,nuremberg and ,leipzig1 7#aghd71 #eja ,strasburg 7#aeef71 #dfi gold and silver lace1 of1 #ib ,italy ,bologna 7n4d471 #dgg2 7#aeia71 #dhc ,florence 7#aeif71 #dhh ,padua 7#aeee71 #dfi2 7#afjd71 #dia ,pistoja 7#afdb71 #ec n#aha1 #he1 #ib n#bfi1 #ejj ,rome 7#afaf71 #die2 7#afbe71 #dif ,siena 7#afjc71 #dhh ,turin 7#aehi71 #dha ,venice 7n4d471 #dff1 #dga1 #dih2 7#aebi71 #dfa2 7#aecj71 #ec n#agi1 #dfj2 7#aecb71 #dfb2 7#aecg71 #dfb2 7#aedb71 #dfc2 7#aedc1 #aedd71 #dfd2 7#aedh71 #ec n#agi1 #dfh2 7#aeea71 #dfh2 7#aeef71 #dfi2 7#aeeg71 #dgb2 7#aeeh71 #dga2 7#aeei71 #ib n#bfi1 #dga1 #dgb2 7#aefj71 #dgc2 7#aefc71 #dgd2 7#aefd71 #ec n#agi1 #ed n#ahb1 #dgd1 #dge2 7#aefg71 #dge2 7#aehd71 #dgf2 7#aeia71 #ec n#agi1 #ed n#ahb1 #dhd2 7#aeib7 7,corona of ,vecellio71 #ej n#afg1 #ed n#ahb1 #dhd2 7#aeid71 #dhf2 7#afjj71 #fh1 #dia1 #dif2 7#afbj and #afbe71 #ed n#ahb1 #dig ,samplars a substitute for1 #bb-bc ,switzerland ,basle 7#aeii71 #bga1 #dij ,st4 ,gall 7#aeic71 #bga1 #dhg ,zurich1 #bga1 #dfi unknown points in1 #ed n#ahb ,vienna ,museum1 in1 #bfc ,pauline1 ,princess1 #ahd1 #ahe ,pays de ,caux1 #baf ,peacham1 quoted1 #cbe1 #cbi ,pearl 7picot71 #ca ------ ties1 #ca ,pearlin1 #dbb1 #dbc ,pedlars1 lace trade carried on by1 #dc and n#aci1 #dd and n#adb1 n#adc ,pelegrin1 ,francisque1 pattern book of1 #add1 #dfa ,pelican represented in lace1 #ba ,pellestrina1 revival of pillow lace at1 #fb ,pembroke1 ,countess of1 #cbb1 #ejj ,peniche bobbins used at1 #ajf n#cad lace industry of1 #ajg and n#cae ,pennant1 quoted1 #chb2 cited1 #dca n#abjh ,penne1 ,mrs41 #bid ,penshurst1 old needlework at1 #aa ,penthivre1 ,duc de ,eu lace patronised by1 #bba inventory of1 quoted1 #aag n#ccc1 #aie n#edi wardrobe account of1 quoted1 #agb and n#eaj1 n#eaa1 #baa n#ehh ,peplos1 embroidery of1 #c n#h ,pepys' ,diary1 quoted1 #aec n#ddd1 #ccg1 #cch ,persia1 drawn-work of1 #de ,peru and ,mexico1 lace imported to1 from ,le ,puy1 #bde ,perugia1 ,torchon made at1 #ha n#bdh ,peter the ,great1 #bhc ,petersen1 ,anders1 #bhj ,petre1 ,madame1 of ,gefle1 information supplied by1 #bhb n#gej ,peuchet1 cited1 #acb1 #bbd1 #bef1 #bfe1 #cgg1 #cie2 quoted1 #baf n#eie1 #bah n#fjj1 #bbj n#fje1 #bbe1 #bcg n#fdj1 #bci1 #bdd1 #bde and n#feg1 #bfh1 #cif1 #dcb ,pharsalia quoted1 #be ,philip ,,ii4 7,spain71 #fg1 #caj ------ ,,iii4 7,spain71 #ig ,philippa1 ,queen1 #bgh1 #bhe and n#ged ,philippine ,islands1 ,manilla grass threadwork of1 #hi n#bfe ,phrygians1 embroidery of1 #c and n#ac ,pianesani1 ,francesco1 #dfb ,picard1 ,m41 #dij n#acdf ,picchetti1 ,marie1 #gi ,pichon1 ,baron ,j41 #dhb1 #dic n#acee1 #die n#acef ,pickleman1 ,jungfrau1 #bff ,pickpockets1 #cdf ,picot 7pearl71 #ca and n#ib ,pigott1 ,miss1 quoted1 #dba ,pillows ,barcelona1 #ajc n#cje description of1 #cia foreign names for1 #cb n#ii ,honiton1 #dae n#aaef ,pillow guipure1 #aaf ------ lace 7bobbin lace7 ,austrian1 #bfh bobbin lace1 so called #cb ,ceylon1 of1 #hh foreign names for1 #cb n#ih ,france1 extension of industry in 7seventeenth century71 #aei2 trade crisis 7#ahah71 #ahg2 fabric at ,chteau de ,madrid1 #baj n#ehd2 gold lace of ,paris1 #bab2 first mentioned in ,french pattern-books1 #did ,genoese1 #gd ,germany1 introduction into1 #bfj ,madeira1 at1 #ajg ,mechlin4 ,see that title method of making1 #cb-cc origin of1 #bi1 #aji ,peniche1 at1 #ajg ,russian1 #bhc and n#gea ,spanish1 #ajc n#cje ,valenciennes4 ,see that title ------ net1 #aej ------ -beres1 #af and n#ef ,pin net machine1 #ddh ,pinheiro1 ,dona ,maria ,bordallo1 letter from1 quoted1 #ajg n#cae ,pins for lace-making1 #cia and n#aabf2 ,state papers concerning1 #bid n#gid ,pinwork lace1 #bid n#gid ,piper ,countess ,elizabeth1 #bhj ,pisa1 lace work of industrial school at1 #ha n#bdh ,pitt1 ,french fashions excluded by1 #agj ,pizzo1 #gd ,plaited laces1 #cib ,platteuse1 work of1 #abb ,plisss la vieille1 #abg ,pluymers1 ,jean1 #aeh n#dfj ,point 7stitch71 kinds of1 #cb ------ lace invention of1 claimed by ,italy1 #de misuse of term1 #cb varieties of1 #cc-ce ------ l'aiguille1 #aba2 gaze1 #abc4 ,see also ,needle point ------ d',alenon ,argentella1 #aic and n#eee ,bayeux manufacture of1 #bbh ,burano manufacture of1 #fb compared1 with point d',argentan1 #bjc1 #bjd and n#ega2 with ,brussels1 #aid1 #aii2 with ,colbertine1 #cci2 with point ,gaze1 #abc2 with ,sedan lace1 #bed dress of1 purchased by ,emperor ,napoleon1 #aih earliest use of name1 #aie and n#eeg1 n#eeh1 n#efj grounds in1 #aic imperial layette of1 #aih industry ,argentan1 connection with1 #bjd centres of1 #bjj decline of1 causes for1 #aib early account of1 #ahh-ahi ,edict of ,nantes1 effect of revocation of1 #beh establishment of1 #aee-aeg and n#dee export trade1 #aib method of manufacture1 #aib-aid ,napoleon's patronage of1 #aif number of lace-workers 7#afih71 #aia2 7#aghf71 #aie2 7#aghh71 #aib n#eeb2 7#ahcj71 #aif origin of1 #aaa n#cbc quality of lace-work1 #aei n#dfd1 #ahg1 #aid revival of1 #aee and n#ded1 #aif-aig value of 7#aghf and #ahja71 #aie2 7#ahcj71 #aif invention and establishment of1 #aee-aeg and n#dee lappet of1 from ,genoa1 #gh and n#bdd nun's work1 #aa n#ci patterns1 #aij-aia2 dates of1 #aih-bjj2 ,venice patterns copied1 #aia season for1 #agh shaded tints introduced in1 #bja and n#efg specimens of1 exhibited1 #bjj1 #bja time required in making1 #aih1 #bja ,venetian rseau1 relation to1 #eh-ei vilain1 #aia n#eea ------ d',angleterre ,angleterre bride1 #djh ,aurillac manufacture of1 #bdg ,burano manufacture of1 #fb butterfly and acorn pattern in1 #djh ,france1 fashionable in1 #aah and n#ccf history of1 #aag and n#ccb1 and n#ccc point de ,france rivalled by1 #agh ------ d',argentan ,argentella possibly a name for1 #gh n#bdd ,armada pattern lace worked in1 #cig ,burano manufacture of1 #fb characteristic of1 #bjg compared1 with point d',alenon1 #bjc1 #bjd and n#ega2 with point gaze1 #abc2 with ,venetian lace1 #bjc1 #bjd n#ega description of1 #bjc ground in1 #bjc and n#egj1 #bjd n#ega1 #bjg-bjh industry ,alenon1 connection with1 #bjd embroidery1 replaced by1 #bjh n#ehj ,guyard's revival of1 #bjd-bje number of lace workers 7c4 #agdd71 #bje2 7#aghf71 #aie rival houses1 #bje value1 annual 7#aghf and #ahja71 #aie2 7#aghh71 #bjg reference to 7#agch71 #aie and n#eei season for1 #agh ------ d',aurillac4 #aed1 #bdf-bdi ------ de ,bourgogne1 #bee ------ de ,brabant1 #ach n#cib ------ de ,bruxelles4 ,see ,point d',angleterre ------ carreaux1 #cb ------ chanette1 #cb ------ des champs 7point de ,paris71 #ce ------ ,colbert1 #ahh n#edh1 #bbh ------ coup 7coupp71 #ag-ah1 #di1 #adj et seq4 ------ de ,dieppe4 ,see ,dieppe ------ double 7point de ,paris71 #ce ------ duchesse1 #abc ------ d',espagne4 7,see also ,gold lace7 brides in1 #eh definition of1 #ij ,england1 importation to1 prohibited1 #ceh2 ,honiton imitation of1 #daj ,irish imitation of1 #ddc n#abcc point d',aurillac compared with1 #bdh ,portuguese laces compared with1 #ih1 #ajf ,queen ,elizabeth's1 #cjg references to1 #ih-ii n#bhc1 n#bhe1 #ajj1 #ajc n#cjf1 #ced ------ d'esprit1 #cb and n#id1 #bbi ------ de ,flandre 7,see also ,flemish lace71 #aaa1 #add-ade ------ de ,france4 7,see also ,point d',alenon7 description of1 made at ,alenon1 #aij designs in1 #aeh n#dfc quipage1 de bain of1 #afh falbalas of1 #afg and n#dib industry centres of1 #aeg n#dei1 #aei n#dei1 #baj-baa and n#ehd ,dumont1 ,mlle41 foundress of1 #aje n#cab establishment and history of company1 #aeg-aeh and n#dei ,flanders1 effect on1 #aaa method of working pattern in1 #ca n#ia ordinance of #affe1 #aeg and n#dei rivals to1 #agg-agh popularity in ,france and ,england1 #afa-afb references to1 #aeg n#dei1 #aei n#dfd1 #aie and n#eeg1 n#eeh1 n#eei1 n#efj ------ de ,galle1 thread lace from1 #hh ------ ,gaze1 characteristics of1 #abc ------ de ,gnes 7,genoa7 collerette1 #ada ,france1 prohibited in1 #adh n#dca1 #aed and n#dea history of1 #gb-gc and n#bcj1 #gd ,rvolte des ,passemens1 mentioned in1 #da1db ------ de ,hongrie1 #bfe ------ of ,italy1 first appearance in ,france1 #add-ade ------ de ,marli4 ,see under ,bayeux1 lace industry4 ------ de ,milan1 ,irish imitation of1 #ddc ------ de ,moscow1 #bhd ------ de neige 7punto neve71 #cb and n#ig1 #ea ------ de ,paris1 #cb and n#ic1 #ce1 #baj1 #bab ------ plat1 #aje n#cac1 #aah1 #aba and n#cdg1 #abb and n#cej2 appliqu1 #abc ------ de raccroc1 #abj1 #ahd1 #bbf ------ de ,raguse1 #da1 #hc and n#bed1 #hd ------ la ,reine1 #cb ------ de ,sedan4 ,see ,sedan ------ tresse1 #cad ------ de ,venise ,alenon imitations of1 #aia characteristics1 #abc ,england1 importation to1 prohibited1 #ceh ,france1 prohibited in1 #aed and n#dea ,guipure1 #dj ,irish imitation of1 #ddb ,mary ,,ii41 image of1 shown wearing1 #cde ,mazarin's purchase of1 #aej1 #aea ,moscow imitations of1 #bhd origin of1 #di-ej point l'aiguille gaze so called1 #abc point de ,raguse so called1 #hc resemblance of1 to point d',argentan1 #bjc1 #bjd n#eia2 to ,le ,puy lace1 #bde2 to point de ,sedan1 #bed ,rvolte des ,passemens1 mentioned in1 #da rose point 7raised71 #ea and n#age1 #fb2 price of1 #eg2 ,honiton reproduction of1 #daa1 #daf2 ,irish reproduction of1 #ddc n#abcc1 #ddd ,spanish conventual lace compared with1 #ic theft of1 #aje and n#cac ------ de ,venise rseau1 #eg1 #eh ,pointeuse1 work of1 #abb ,points1 lace known as1 #b ,poitou1 #bef ,poking-sticks1 #cab ,poland ,alenon1 trade with1 #aib and n#eec point de ,sedan imported to1 #bed ,pole1 ,lady1 effigy of1 #djc n#aade1 #dje ,polignac1 ,madame de1 #ahj ,polychrome lace1 #fb-fc ,pomfret1 ,countess of1 #ii n#bhe ,pommereu1 ,m4 de1 quoted1 #aia and n#eej ,pomp office1 #cai ,pompadour1 ,madame de1 #ahd n#edj ,pompe di ,minerva1 ,le1 cited1 #ec n#aha1 #he1 #ib n#bfi ,ponchel1 du4 ,see ,duponchel ,pont-l',evque lace1 #ahc n#eci ,ponthivre1 ,duke de1 #ajj and n#bhh ,ponto fiamengho1 #aaa ,pontoppidan1 quoted1 #bgd n#gcf ,pontus de ,gardia1 #bhj ,pope1 quoted1 #cfg ----1 the1 apron worn by1 for feet-washing ceremony1 #gj and n#bag ,popplewell ,brothers1 quoted1 #cde ,porlin1 quoted1 #cjf n#hed ,porter1 ,mrs4 ,grey1 #ddj ,portland1 ,duchess of1 #cec ,portugal ,american imports of lace from1 #ajf bone pins used in1 #bie guipures exported to1 #cf lace-making in1 #aje-ajg and nn ,le ,puy1 lace imported from1 #bde sumptuary laws in1 #aje ,postlethwait1 quoted1 #ced2 cited1 #cif ,pot lace1 #acj and n#cfi ,potter1 ,amy1 #cff n#ajhf ,poussin lace1 #bai ,poyntz1 ,adrian1 #dhb ,prague1 altar-cloth at1 #i ,pridmore1 ,mr41 #chi ,princess ,royal1 bridal dress of1 #dji ,prior1 quoted1 #cdb ,prison-made lace1 #ha and n#bdh ,protection to ,english-made laces1 etc41 by ,english sovereigns ,charles ,i41 #ccj ,charles ,,ii41 #cce ,george ,,iii41 #cei1 #cfc and n#ajfh ,william ,,iii41 #cda ,puisieux lace1 #bab n#ehi ,puissieux1 ,madame de1 #di and n#afb1 #gc ,pultenarian collars1 #bec4 ,punto in aria 7,burano point71 #df1 #ea and n#aga1 #eh1 #fb ,punto di cartella 7cordella71 #ej ------ a gropo1 #eb ------ a maglia quadra 7lacis71 #eb ------ de mosquito e de transillas1 #ii ------ di ,napoli1 #ga ------ neve 7point de neige71 #cb and n#ig1 #ea ------ pugliese1 #ga n#bbb ------ di ,rapallo1 #ge n#bcg ------ reale1 #ej ------ a relievo 7rose point--,see under ,point de ,venise7 ------ a reticella1 #ej and n#afh ------ ricamento a maglia quadra1 #ba ------ tagliato 7cut-work71 #ea ------ tagliato a fogliami1 #ea and n#agb1 #fb ------ tirato 7drawn work71 #ec and n#aha ------ a ,vermicelli1 #ge n#bcg ,purle lace1 #caj and n#hge1 n#hgf1 n#hgg ,purling1 #dji ,purls1 lace known as1 #b ,puritans1 lace industry under1 in ,england1 #ccb-ccd2 in ,america1 #cgb n#ajii ,puteau1 ,madame1 #dcc and n#abad ,queensberry1 ,duchess of1 #cef ,quentell1 ,p41 #dei ,quicherat1 #aci ,quilles1 #abg1 #afh n#dif ,quintain1 #ai and n#fj1 #bj ,quinty1 ,m41 #bfh ------1 ,p41 #dei ,rabat1 #ada and n#djc ,rabbits' hair1 lace of #bde4 ,radcliffe1 ,lady1 #caj n#hge ,radford1 ,miss1 lace school of1 #daf and n#aafi ,raffy1 ,madame1 #aeg n#deh1 #bjb ,ragusa1 cut-works and laces of1 #hb-hc ,rapallo1 number of lace-workers at 7#ahfb71 #gf ,vermicelli lace from1 #gd1 #ge and nn ,ratcliff1 ,lady1 #bid n#gia ,rttwik lace1 #bha ,ravenna1 lace school near1 #ha n#bdh ,rawert1 cited1 #bgd n#gcb1 #bgg n#gda ,ray1 cited1 #fg ,raux1 ,tallemant des1 quoted #di2 cited1 #hc ,rebecq-,rognon1 flax grown at1 #aah ,rcamier1 ,madame1 #ahe ,regency point1 #chh ,regnard1 quoted1 #abf and n#ceh1 #afg n#did ,regnier1 quoted1 #ada ,reid1 ,miss1 #ddj ,reiffenberg1 ,baron1 cited1 #aji and n#cah ,relevailles of ,parisian ladies1 #agd ,religious subjects in lace1 etc1 #cbd ,renaissance1 cut-work of1 #ag ,ren1 ,matre1 #adj n#cie ,renfrew1 lace industry at1 #dcc ,rseau 7rseuil1 rzel1 rzeuil7 ,don ,quixote1 mentioned in1 #ih n#bha methods of making1 #abj-aba needle-made by hand1 #djf n#aaea nosac1 #gh specimens of rzeuil d'or1 #bc n#gd uses of1 #ba ,venetian1 relation of1 to ,alenon1 #eh-ei ,restoring of old lace1 #daa1 #dab ,reticella 7,italian7 designs in1 #fh ,irish imitation of1 #ddf ,retz1 ,cardinal de1 #fb ,revel1 grave-clothes in church at1 #cff n#ajhc ,rvolte des ,passemens1 ,la1 quoted1 #dj and n#acd1 #dc1 #ajd2 cited1 #hc1 #ahh ,rheims lace1 #bec ,rhodes1 silk guipure of1 #hg ,riano1 ,j4 ,f41 quoted1 #ic ,riazan lace1 #bhc ,riband roses1 #cbi and n#iei ,ricci1 ,sebastian1 cut work shown in ,last ,supper of1 #gi n#bdh ,rich1 ,b41 quoted1 #cag n#ijh ,richard ,,ii41 statutes of1 #baf n#eig -------- ,,iii41 #dh1 #bid n#gid ,richelieu1 ,duke1 #add1 #adi ----------1 ,marchal de1 #aga ,ripon1 lace-making at1 #cga and n#ajie ,riviera 7,see also ,albissola1 ,rapallo1 ,santa ,margherita71 lace manufacture of1 #ge1 #gi and n#bde ,rob ,roy cited1 #dbc ,roberts1 ,mrs41 #dde2 account of lace school supplied by1 #chh-cij ,robinson ,crusoe1 ,flanders lace bought by1 #acd n#cgi ,rodge1 ,james1 #dja ,roger1 ,widow1 #bjg ,rohan1 ,catherine de1 #bab ------ family1 #ahb ,roland1 cited1 #cf n#aac ------ de la ,platire1 quoted1 #aed n#dea1 #bbc n#fjh2 cited1 #bde n#fef ,romagna1 lace-making in1 #fh ,romana1 ,lucretia1 #dih ------1 ,lugretia1 #dig ,romans1 embroidery used by1 #c and n#ac1 #d n#ad ,rome1 ,greek lace made at1 #he ----1 ,king of1 #aif ,rondonneau1 ,m41 #aeb n#ddj ,rose point of ,venice4 ,see under ,point de ,venise ,rosenborg ,palace ,museum1 #bgc ,rosina ,helena1 ,princess1 #eja ,ross1 ,mr41 #dhb ,rossi1 ,giovanni1 #dhc ,roumanian embroidery1 #ga n#bbb ,rousseau1 ,jean ,jacques1 #bgj ,rowlands1 quoted1 #bhi n#ggc ,rudd1 ,margaret ,caroline1 #ceb ,rue1 ,abb1 cited1 #f ,ruel1 ,sieur1 #aee ,ruelle1 ,veuve1 #dfh ,ruff cut-work1 of1 #cab-cac ,england1 introduction into1 #caj falling band the successor to1 #cbf ,france1 in1 #aci-ada and n#cii ,james ,i41 under1 #cae-cah ,medicean1 #cbb ,nuremberg1 #bfg sermons against the1 #caf starching and fluting of1 #caa-cab ,ruffles fashion of1 in ,george ,i4's time1 #cea ladies wearers of1 #cfe and n#ajgg long1 in ,george ,,iii4's time1 #cfc and n#ajgj making of1 #aid origin of weeping1 #aga ,valenciennes industry affected by disappearance of1 #bca ,run lace1 #dda ,russell1 ,lady ,rachel1 #cdh ,russia embroidery of1 #ga n#bbb lace imported to1 from ,alenon1 #aib1 #aii2 from ,saxony1 #bfc lace industry in1 #bhc-bhd ,ruvigne1 ,m41 #cca ,rymer1 cited1 #bia n#ghe ,sabbio1 ,fratelli de1 #dfa ,sabenqua1 #ig ,sabire1 ,m4 de1 #agb n#eje ,saffron ,walden fair1 #dc n#acg ,sainte-,aignau1 ,m4 de1 #baf ,saint-,albin1 ,mgr4 ,c4 de1 #agc and n#ejh ,st4 ,aligre1 #bdg-bdh and n#ffc ,saint-,brice lace1 #bac n#ehi ,st4 ,bridget1 lace introduced into ,sweden by1 #bgh and n#gdc ,st4 ,cuthbert cope and maniple of1 #g grave-clothes of1 #ad-ae1 #cff ,st4 ,denis lace1 #baj ,st4 ,dunstan1 embroideries designed by1 #e ,st4 ,eustadiole1 #e ,saint ,franois ,rgis1 #bdc ,st4 ,gervais1 #bjg n#egg ,st4 ,giselle1 #e n#ah ,st4 ,lawrence1 ,lady1 #caj n#hgf ,st4 ,lo1 cut-work toile d'honneur used at1 #be ,st4 ,louis1 hospital at ,argentan1 #bjg ,st4 ,margaret's1 ,westminster1 lady ancress of1 #bic ,st4 ,martin's lace1 #cca n#ife ,st4 ,mary at ,hill1 #bic1 #cjb n#hbh ,saint ,maximien1 lace of1 #bab ,st4 ,nicholas1 flax grown at1 #aah n#cch ,saint-,pierre-les-,champs1 lace of1 #bac n#ehi ,st4 ,simon1 quoted1 #gc1 #aff ,st4 ,trond1 lace industry of1 #acg and n#cij1 n#cia ,salcombe1 male lace-maker at1 #dac ,saltonstall1 ,mistress ,susan1 #dhc ,salviati1 ,joseph1 #dgf ,samcloths1 #bc and n#gc ,samplars1 #i n#cj1 #bc and n#gc ,sandford1 cited1 #bhe n#ged ,sandwich1 ,lady1 #aff ,sta4 ,lucie1 ,pierre de1 #dfd1 #dfe ,santa ,margherita number of lace-workers at 7#ahfb71 #gf ,vermicelli lace from1 #gd1 #ge and nn ,saracens1 ,italian lace-making attributed to1 #de ,sarcelles lace1 #bac n#ehi ,sardinia deaf and dumb lace-workers in1 #ha n#bdh ,le ,puy1 annual value of lace brought from1 #bde n#feg ,saule1 ,marchesa ,barbaretta1 #gh n#bdd ,savary1 quoted1 #cf and n#aaa1 #ed1 #fd1 #abf1 #acc1 #bee1 #beg n#fhg1 #djd2 cited1 #gd1 #aah n#cch1 #abe1 #abi1 #ace1 #aib1 #baj1 #bdd1 #bdf n#ffa1 #bdg1 #bec n#fgg1 #bed n#fha1 n#fhc1 #bfb1 #cgg ,savinire1 quoted1 #aec and n#ddc ,savoie1 ,don ,philippe1 #adc ,savona1 #gg n#bdj1 #gi n#bdf ,savonarola1 quoted1 #fg ,saxony lace industry ,barbara ,uttman's work1 #bfj-bfb cheap lace of1 #bdf degeneration of1 #bfc ,dresden lace1 #bfb-bfc modern1 #bfc numbers employed 7sixteenth century71 #bfa patterns imitated in ,denmark1 #bge revenue from 7sixteenth century71 #bfa treillis d',allemagne1 mention1 of1 in ,french inventories1 #bfb and n#gja ,scandinavian ,museum1 ,copenhagen1 #bge ,scandinavians1 lace work of1 #d ,scarpariola1 ,cencia1 #ei1 #fa ,scarron1 quoted1 #agg --------1 ,veuve1 #afc ,schartzemberger1 ,johan1 #dfb ,schleswig lace industry1 quality of lace1 #bge2 number of fabrics 7#ahdj71 #bgg ----------1 ,north1 lace of1 #bgb1 #bgc2 districts of lace industry1 #bgf n#gch ,schole ,house for the ,needle1 ,a1 #dii ,schomberg1 ,col41 quoted1 #cbf and n#idf ,schools1 ,lace ,devonshire1 #dad1 #dae and n#aafg1 #daf ,italian1 #ha n#bdh ,spratton1 #chh1 #cij ,schoulthem1 ,mr4 ,hey1 quoted1 #acc-acd and n#chj ,schwartzenburg1 ,john1 #bfg ,scotch servant on old lace1 #cfh n#ajij ,scotland lace manufacture of1 #dbb1 #dbe n#aaii1 #dbh-dcd sumptuary laws in1 #dbb and n#aaie1 #dbd ,scott1 ,sir ,walter1 quoted1 #dah n#aage1 #dbg and n#abjb ,scottish ,advertiser 7#agfi71 quoted1 #ce ,sculptured lace coloured marbles1 in1 #ga ,harefield church1 in1 #cba n#ibg ,seaming lace1 #ajg1 #cbe n#ida1 #ccb ,sedan lace1 #ahc n#eci1 #bec1 #bed ,sedgewicke1 ,elizabeth1 #caj ,sedley1 ,sir ,charles1 #ac and n#dg ,sez black laces1 #aif and n#efb ,sguin1 quoted1 #aac n#cbe1 #aci n#cic2 cited1 #bed ,select ,society of ,edinburgh1 ,the1 #dbi1 #dcj and nn ,sempere ,historia del ,lujo1 quoted1 #ajb ,senior1 ,hannah1 #ab ,sera1 ,dominique de1 cited1 #ib2 ,pattern ,book of1 #dgf ,sevenges1 ,madame de1 #bij ,svign1 ,madame de bequest to1 #ahc n#edj quoted1 #aed n#ddh1 #afb n#dgg1 #cff n#ajhd ,seville lace1 #aja ,sewell1 quoted1 #bid n#gid ,seymour1 ,lady ,jane1 #bid ,sforza family1 documents of1 cited1 #df1 #ej n#afh1 #fc1 #gd n#bce ,shadwell1 quoted1 #cdc1 #cde ,shakespeare1 laces mentioned by1 #bie1 #cjc and n#hca2 quoted1 #cji n#hga ,shakespeare ,memorial1 ,a1 quoted1 #cbe n#ida ,shandowes1 ,lady4 ,see ,chandos ,shawe1 quoted1 #djd ,sherborne1 lace industry of1 #cif1 #cig ,sheridan1 quoted1 #cdf ,shirts adornments of1 #ae-af ,irish1 #cjg1 #dce ,queen ,elizabeth's present of1 to her brother1 #aj ,spanish omission of1 #ig n#bgi ,shoes1 lace rosette-trimmed1 #cbi ,shrewsbury1 ,countess of1 #aa ,siam1 ,king of 7#afad71 #ab ,sibmacher1 #bff1 #dij ,sicily1 lace manufacture of1 #hj-ha ,sicotire1 ,leon de la1 #bjh n#egi ,sidbury1 lace school at1 #dad2 lace lessons at1 #daf n#aagj ,sidford1 lace lessons at1 #dl#f n#cd ,sidmouth1 lace school at1 #daf and n#aafi ,sidney1 ,sir ,philip1 #cjd ,sidonian embroidery1 #c ,siena lace1 #fh ,silk guipure4 ,see ,guipure ---- lace ,almagro1 at1 #ajb n#big ,chinese1 #hi ,cretan1 #hf ,ragusa1 at 7gimp71 #hd ,watling1 #dbb ,silver lace 7,see also ,aurillac lace7 ,england1 importation to1 prohibited by1 ,queen ,anne1 #cdi2 ,george ,,ii41 #cce n#iic2 confiscation and burning of foreign1 #cei ,hamburg1 #bfd ,holland1 introduction into1 #bei ,india1 exported to1 #cbb n#ibh1 #cbi and n#ieh ,ireland1 exportation to1 prohibited1 #dci ,large purchase of1 by ,lady ,arabella ,stuart1 #cbe ,lyons1 at1 #bef ,ragusa1 at1 #hd ,scotland1 wearing prohibited in1 #dbb ,spanish1 #ajj-ajb1 #aed1 #baa1 #bab ,zurich1 #bga ------ net-work1 collar of1 #hb ------ purles1 prohibition of ,english made1 #ccj #ccj ------ thread1 duties on1 leased to ,dame ,villiers1 #cbh ,silvestre1 cited1 #dfc n#abgd1 #dfd ,simiane1 ,madame de ,english point belonging to1 #aah and n#cce inventory of1 quoted1 #aec n#ddd1 #bah and n#eii ,sinclair1 ,sir ,john1 quoted1 #acc-acd and n#chj1 #dbh --------1 ,miss ,katherine1 #dai n#aagf ,sir ,courtly ,nice1 cited1 #cec and n#ajeb ,skelton1 quoted1 #bea n#ffi ,skippin1 quoted1 #di n#afe1 cited1 #gb ,slammerkins1 #cef and n#ajei ,slavonian peasants' work1 #bfh ,sleeves1 #cda1 #cfe ,sloper1 ,catherine1 epitaph on1 #ac ,smith1 ,mother ,mary ,anne1 #ddc ,smocks adornments of1 #ae labourers' cut-work insertion on1 #be ,smuggling of lace1 account of1 #ceg-cfb2 of point de ,bruxelles1 #aag2 in #afba1 #cca2 in ,charles ,,ii's time1 #ccf2 ,isle of ,man a centre for1 #cgb2 to ,scotland1 #dbg ---------- of thread1 #djg ,smyrna1 silk guipure of1 #hg ,smythe1 ,thomas1 #dbe ,society of ,anti-,gallicans4 ,see ,anti-,gallican -------- of ,polite ,arts1 #bfb n#gjb ,sol1 ,jos1 #dhd ,soldiers lace made by1 #bbe rich laces of ,english1 #cde1 #cdf ,sonderburg1 vault of ,schleswig-,holstein family at1 #cff n#ajhb ,sonnettes1 #cd n#ajd ,sophie de ,france1 #afh ------1 ,grand ,duchess1 #bfh ,soragana1 ,marchesa di1 #dhf ,sorbire1 ,mons4 de1 #gj ,souche1 ,lady1 #cji n#hgj ,south ,kensington ,museum1 ,cretan laces in1 #hf ,southey1 quoted1 #cjc n#hcj ,spacing lace1 #cbe n#ida ,spain ,america1 lace exported to1 #ajb bone pins used in1 #bie conventual lace work of1 #ic earnings of lace-makers in1 #ajb embroidery of1 #h n#bh1 #aj and n#cb ,french fashions influenced by1 #adg gold and silver lace1 use and manufactures of1 #ajj-ajb2 imported to1 #bab grave clothes of grandees in1 #cff and n#ajhe guipures imported to1 #cf holidays in1 #ajb n#cjb lace imported to1 from-- ,albissola1 #gg ,chantilly1 #bad ,dieppe1 #bai ,ghent1 #acc ,isle de ,france1 #bji ,le ,puy1 #bde and n#feg ,lorraine1 #bea ,marseilles1 #aja ,paris1 #cf1 #bab ,maestranza1 the1 uniforms of1 #ajj mantilla1 kinds of1 #ajb-ajc and n#cje2 mantillas exported to1 #bbf manufacture of lace in1 centres of1 before #affe1 #dd n#add ,moresse1 dentelles de1 #ajd numbers of lace-makers in1 #ii1 #aja1 #ajb n#bid1 n#big1 #ajd point of4 ,see ,point d',espagne shirts frequently unworn in 7#afhf71 #ig n#bgi sumptuary laws of1 #ij1 #ig1 #aja two kinds of lace made in1 #ajc n#cje ,spangles1 #cce2 of bobbins1 #cia n#aabg ,spanish-,american colonies1 ,chantilly lace exported to1 #bad -------- ,indies1 ,brabant lace exported to1 #abi guipures exported to1 #cf ,le ,puy lace1 annual consumption of1 #bde n#feg ,spelle werk1 #cb n#ih ,spenser1 quoted1 #cjc n#hcj ,spider net1 #ddh ------ -work1 #bj ,spiral design1 #g ,spratton1 lace school at1 #chh-cij ,stal1 ,madame de1 #ahj ,stafford1 ,bishop1 monument of1 #dje and n#aaej ,stair1 ,lord1 #ii n#bhe ,starch1 yellow1 #cjg1 #cag and n#ijf1 #dce ,starching1 introduction of1 into ,england1 #caa2 tools used for fluting and1 #caa-cab ,steadman1 ,anne1 #ddj ,steenbeck1 #bgd ,steinkirk lace1 #afg and n#dia1 #cdd and n#ajba1 #cde1 #cfd ,stephens1 quoted1 #cjb n#hbh ,stepney1 ,lady1 #cfi ,sterne1 cited1 #agb ,stisted1 ,mrs41 cited1 #dgd and n#acjh1 #dhg ,stock1 lace cravat succeeded by1 #cde ,stockholm museums1 lace in1 #bhb ,stone1 quoted1 #adj ,stoney ,stratford1 lace industry of1 #cge n#aaje1 #cgi and n#aaag ,stothard1 ,mrs41 quoted1 #baf n#eid ,stowe1 cited1 #bid n#gic2 quoted1 #caj1 #caa and n#hgi1 #cab ,strafford1 statuette of ,earl of1 #cfg ,strasburg1 ,archbishops of4 ,see ,rohan family4 ,stratford-upon-,avon1 embroidered bed linen at1 #cbe n#ida ,strauben1 ,george1 #bga1 #dhg ,strickland1 ,miss1 quoted1 #dbj n#aahd ,striqueuse1 work of1 #abb ,strutt1 ,jedediah1 #ddh n#abci ,strype1 quoted1 #ch1 #big and n#hac ,stuart1 ,arabella1 #cbe ------1 ,mary1 ,see ,mary ,stuart ,stubbes1 quoted1 #af1 #cac and n#hib ,stuora1 #ec and n#agi ,sturbridge fair1 #dc and n#adj ,stures family1 #bhb ,suffolk1 ,duchess1 #bib --------1 ,earl of1 #cai and n#iag1 n#iah --------1 lace industry of1 #cid ,sully1 #adb1 #baj ,sumptuary laws ,denmark1 #bgd and n#gcc1 n#gce ,england1 #bhe1 #bhf1 #bhh1 #bhi1 #bij and n#ggf1 #bia1 #bic1 #cjf and n#hee1 #cai ,france1 #fd1 #ada and n#djd1 n#dje1 #add1 #adg and n#dbi1 #adh and n#dca1 #aeb1 #aed and n#dej1 #aeh and n#dfj1 #bab1 #bdc ,genoa1 #gc ,ireland 7#aib ,a4,d471 #dce1 #dcf and n#abbj ,portugal1 #aje ,rvolte des ,passemens1 ,la1 #dj-dc ,scotland1 #dbb and n#aaie1 #dbd ,spain1 #ij1 #ig1 #aja ,turkey1 #hg ,venice1 #dh1 #eg1 #gi n#bde ,zurich1 #bgj ,sweden cut-work in1 #be1 #bhj grave-clothes1 lace adorned1 #cff lace industry1 bobbin lace of1 #bhj established at ,wadstena1 #bgh growth of1 #bgi peasant lace work for home use1 #bha-bhb ,spanish point and guipure in museums1 #bhb sheets1 laced1 #bhj ,swift1 quoted1 #abd1 #cci1 #cdi n#ajcg1 #ceb1 #dcf ,swinburne1 ,thos4 7#aegb71 #cja n#hbb ---------- 7#agge71 quoted1 #aja ---------- 7#aghf71 quoted1 #agf ,switzerland1 lace industry in1 ,french refugees1 settlement of1 #bfi mignonette made 7#affe71 #ce ,neufchtel4 ,see that title origin of1 #bfi pattern books1 #bga statistics of1 #bgj and n#gbg ,zurich sumptuary laws1 #bgj-bga ,sylvius1 ,balthazar1 #dfi ,syon ,monastery cope1 #g ,syracuse1 ,count of1 quoted1 #cfi ,tabin1 ,b41 #dgf ,taglienti1 pattern-book of1 #ej n#afh1 #ea n#aga1 #eb n#agf1 n#agh1 #ec n#aha1 #ga n#bbb1 #hb n#beb1 #dfj ,talavera de la ,regna1 lace made at1 #aja ,talbot1 ,gilbert1 #cjd ,tallies1 #gh and n#aed ,talma lace1 #ahf ,talon1 #aeh n#dfj ,tambour work1 ,hamilton1 #dcd n#abaf ,irish1 #ddj1 #dda and n#abcj1 #ddb n#abca oriental1 #ddj1 #dda ,tape lace1 #aaf1 #dad n#aafe ,tapestry1 ,greek lace a substitute for1 #he-hf ,tarnete 7trina71 #df ,tatler1 quoted1 #bif n#hjf ,tatting1 ,manilla grass1 #hi n#bfe ,tax-books1 ,genoese1 cited1 #gb n#bbd ,taylor1 ,john1 quoted1 #cbc and n#icc1 #cbi2 cited #ejj ,temple1 ,earl1 #chj ,tessada1 ,signore1 old lace of1 #gb n#bbe1 #gc n#bcb2 cited1 #gf n#bch ,ttes de ,more 7de mort1 de moire71 #cf and n#aac ,thelusson1 ,symphorien1 #bfi ,theodoret1 ,j41 #dfi ,thierzac1 lacis at1 #bdh ,thomond1 ,earl of1 #ab ,thomsen1 ,prof41 quoted1 #bgb ,thomysi1 ,eleazaro1 #dha ,thread1 importance of using fine 7see also under ,lille71 #cic and n#aajd1 #ddf ------ lace ,cyprian1 #hb hand spinners of1 protest by1 #cce importation of1 prohibited by ,george ,,iii41 #cee n#ajdg ,thynne1 quoted1 #bih n#haf ,tickell1 quoted1 #afi n#dig ,tighe1 ,mr41 cited1 #ddj n#abbh ,tiverton1 first machine net factory at1 #djh ,toil1 #cj and n#hi ,toile d'arraigne1 ,paraguayan1 #ajh ,toledo1 ,donna ,teresa de1 #ajc ,tombs4 ,see ,grave-clothes ,tnder lace industry1 #bgd1 #bge1 #bgg and n#gdj1 n#gdb ,toquet1 #cdj ,torchon ,milanese1 #ff prison-made at ,perugia1 #ha n#bdh ,saxony fabric1 #bfc ,sicilian1 #ha ,spanish1 #ajb n#big ,torello1 #dfi ,torteroli1 ,sig4 ,don ,tommaso1 #gi n#bdf ,tory1 ,g41 #dgf ,tottenham1 ,mrs4 ,george1 #ddf ,toul1 tulle probably derived from1 #bej-bea and n#ffi ,tournantes1 #afh n#dif ,tournay1 flax grown at1 #aah n#cch ,tours1 cope presented to ,church of ,st4 ,martin at1 #e ,towcester1 lace industry at1 #chb ,travancore1 pillow-laces of1 #hh ,treadwin1 ,mrs4 cited1 #dja n#aadj1 #djg1 #dac ,honiton lace industry1 efforts for1 #daj1 #daa1 #daf ,trevelyan1 ,miss ,audrey1 #dag ,trezola1 #dgd n#acaa ,trina1 #df and n#aej1 n#aeb ,trolle ,bonde1 ,count1 #bhb ------ kant1 #aae-aaf ,trollopies1 #cef and n#ajei ,trolly ground1 #chf ------ lace1 #cga n#ajie1 #dab-dad ,trotman1 ,acting ,consul1 cited1 #hi ,trousse1 ,mlle4 de la1 cited1 #dj n#acd ,troyaux1 ,mons41 #abd ,tucker1 ,mrs4 ,marwood1 #djg n#aaed ,tulle 7town71 manufactures of1 #bej ,tulle embroidered1 #bbi ,german manufacture of1 #bej lace discarded in favour of1 #ahg ,marie ,antoinette1 at ,court of1 #ahj origin of name1 #bej predecessor of1 #bbe ,turkey oyah made in1 #de1 #hg silk gimp specimens from1 #he sumptuary laws in1 #hg tambour work in1 #dda ,turn1 #dja n#aadj ,turner1 ,mrs41 yellow starch invented by1 #cjg1 #cag and n#ijf1 #dce ,turnhout1 ,mechlin lace made at1 #abe2 number of fabrics 7#ahjc71 #aca ,turin1 fashion at ,court of1 #aec n#dde ,tuscan lacis1 #eb-ec1 #fh ,tussaud1 ,madame1 #adc n#dab ,twopenny1 ,mr4 ,w41 #bhf n#gfa ,tynan lace industry1 #ddb1 #ddc ,tyrol 7,austrian7 lace industry1 #bfh ,udine1 lace school at1 #ha n#bdh ,unbleached thread1 pattern worked in1 #cch ,underclothing lace-trimmed1 in ,scotland1 #dbf ,united ,states4 ,see ,america ,urbino1 lace making in1 #fh ,urbino1 ,duchess1 #dga ,ursins1 ,madame des1 #ii1 #agb ,ustariz1 quoted1 #ajb ,uttman1 ,barbara1 #bfj-bfb1 #ddg ,val de ,travers1 rivalry with ,mirecourt1 #beb1 #bgj ,valcameos1 #bdf ,valencia gold and silver lace made at1 #aja saints' images decked in lace at1 #ajj ,valenciennes ,lace compared with ,binche1 #ace2 with ,dutch1 #bfj2 with ,eu lace1 #bba2 with ,isle of ,man lace1 #cgb n#ajif2 with ,lille1 #bcg2 with ,mechlin1 #bcc2 with point de ,dieppe1 #bbj2 with ,welsh lace1 #cga n#ajid cost of 7#aghh71 #bcd and n#fbg fault of1 #bce n#fbi ,honiton reproduction of1 #daf industry centres of1 #acb2 after ,french ,revolution1 #bca n#fbd2 expense and labour in making1 #bcc2 cost of thread1 #bcd n#fbg decline of1 #bca establishment of1 date1 #bcj ,french ,revolution1 effect of1 #ahc n#eci method of working pattern in1 #ca numbers employed 7#ahth century71 #bcj2 7#agij and #ahea71 #bca2 at ,ypres 7#afhd and #ahej71 #aca period of highest merit1 #bcd-bce time required in producing1 #bcc-bcd value of ,belgium monopoly1 #acb and n#cgf wages and conditions of work1 #bcc point a misnomer for1 #cb rseau of1 #ff varieties of ,alost 7ground stitch71 #acc ,bailleul1 #bda ,bohemia1 #bfh ,bruges1 #acb-acc ,courtrai1 width of1 #aca n#cgc2 compared with ,ypres1 #acb2 ground stitch1 #acc n#cgg2 character of1 #bcb n#fbd ,dijon1 #bee fausses ,valenciennes1 manufactories of1 #bda1 #chg ,ghent 7ground stitch71 #acc n#cgg ,le ,puy1 #bcj and n#fai1 #bde vrai ,valenciennes1 #bca and n#fbd ,ypres1 description of1 #aca1 #bca n#fbd2 value of1 #aca n#cgc2 ground and pattern1 #aca-acc ,valentine de ,milan1 #aci n#cic ,valets1 extravagance of1 #agc and n#ead ,valguarnera1 ,prince1 #ga ,valladolid1 lace-trimmed banner at1 #ajj ,valois line1 influence of1 on ,french fashions1 #aci ,valuables of ,glenurquhy1 quoted1 #cbe and n#ich ,valvassore's heirs1 pattern book of1 #dgf ,van ,even1 ,edward1 cited1 #aaj n#cbj ,van ,eyck1 ,jacob1 quoted1 #aaa and n#cbb ,van ,londonzeel1 ,assuerus1 #aaa ,vandyke edges1 origin of term1 #ddh n#abda ,vatican1 laces of1 #gj ,vavassore1 ,giovanni ,andrea1 #dff1 #dfg1 #dgb ,vecellio cited1 #ga and n#bba ,corona of1 #h n#bh1 #bi1 #ej n#afg1 #aaa1 #dhd1 #dhf ,veils1 bridal1 #gh2 ,english1 fourteenth century1 #bhe ,vlay lace industry 7,see also ,le ,puy71 fifteenth century1 #bdb2 #ahth century1 #bdd2 thread used1 #bde ,venezuela1 lace of1 #ajh ,venice ,billament lace of1 #dh and n#aei blonde1 formerly made in1 #ei n#aie ,brussels lace worn at1 #eg and n#aib ,colbert1 ordinance of1 trade affected by1 #ed collar made for ,louis ,,xiii4 at1 #aid emigration of workers restricted1 #aei n#dfe ,english imports from1 #dc1 #bhh1 #cjg n#hfc1 n#hfd2 prohibited1 #ceh fashion dolls at ,st4 ,mark's fair1 #agj n#eja frauds of lace-makers in1 #dh1 #fg1 #bhh gold work of1 #bhh1 #cjg n#hfc1 n#hfd ,greek lace made at1 #he ,medici collars made at1 #ef numbers employed on lace-making in1 #fc ,point of4 ,see ,point de ,venise polychrome lace1 introduction of1 #fb-fc sumptuary laws in1 #dh1 #eg1 #gi n#bde ,swiss lace from1 origin of1 #bfi travellers' allusions to products of1 #ee1 #eg varieties of lace supplied by1 #ej-ec1 #eg-eh ,verbruggen1 #abi n#cfg ,verceilles1 #bdi ,verghetti1 #ef ,vermicelli lace1 #gd ,verney ,papers1 quoted1 #cai n#iaf ,verona1 ,st4 ,john1 life of1 executed in needlework at1 #h n#bf ,veronese1 ,paul1 macram in picture1 by1 #gi n#bdh ,verulam1 ,lord1 #aja and n#bhi ,viarmes lace1 #bab ,victoria1 ,queen ,honiton lace flounces ordered by1 #daj ,isle of ,wight lace patronised by1 #cgb n#ajig ,state liveries of1 #agd n#eaf trousseau of1 #cib1 #dji ,victoria and ,albert ,museum ,alenon in1 #aic n#eee ,bock exhibits in1 #bc n#gd ,cyprian lace in1 #hb ,danish embroideries in1 #bge ,genoese lappet in1 #gh and n#bdd ,german specimens in1 #bfd2 ,nuremberg ruffs1 #bfg ,hungarian peasant lace in1 #bfh ,irish imitation ,venetian point in1 #ddc n#abcc lacis borders in1 #bj-ba ,norwegian cut-work in1 #bhj n#gdg pale of rose point in1 #ea ,paraguayan drawn-work at1 #ajh pattern-books in1 #dfg n#abhg1 #dfh1 #dgj1 #dgg1 #dhh n#accg1 #dij n#acdd1 #dig n#acfa1 #eja n#acgj1 #ejb n#acga ,slavonian peasants' work in1 #bfh ,suffolk laces in1 #cid ,syon ,monastery cope in1 #g tape lace in1 #aaf ,villemarqu1 cited1 #bbi n#faf ,villiers1 ,dame ,barbara1 #cbh --------1 ,sir ,edward1 #cai n#iah --------1 ,sir ,george1 #cah ,villiers-le-,bel1 lace-making at1 #bji1 #bac n#ehi ,vimoutier1 #bjd ,vinciolo1 ,frederick ,katharine de ,mdicis the patroness of1 #aa1ag pattern book of1 #di1 #acf1 #add1 #dgg-dhb1 #dhg1 #did ,virginire1 ,blaise de1 quoted1 #adj1 #ada and n#dja ,vittoria1 ,sister ,felice1 #ic ,volant1 origin of name1 #afh n#dif ,vologda lace1 #bhc ,voltaire1 quoted1 #aff n#dij ,vorsterman1 ,william1 #ahj1 #dfc ,vos1 ,martin de1 engravings after1 #ajf and n#bfh ,vrai rseau1 bride succeeded by1 #djf ,vrillire1 ,mgr4 de la1 #afb n#dge ,waborne lace1 #cjj and n#hai ,wace1 ,robert1 cited1 #bjb ,wadstena lace industry1 #bgh-bhj ,wages of lace-workers4 ,see ,earnings ,wakefield1 quoted1 #ddj n#abbh ,waldgrave1 ,sir ,edward1 #bic ,wales1 lace-making in1 #cga and n#ajid ------1 ,princess of1 #dji ,walker1 ,charles1 #dda and n#abcj1 #ddb ,walpole1 cited1 #big n#hjh1 #cef and n#ajfj ,walsingham1 #cjg n#hfj1 #dbj n#aahb ----------1 ,lady ,audrye1 #fd1 #cbj n#ibe ,wareham1 lace found in ,scandinavian barrow near1 #d ,warwick1 ,lord1 #ccc ,warton1 ,j41 quoted1 #aba and n#cdi ,washing of ecclesiastical lace1 #cgc n#aaja ,waterloo1 hospital for ,english wounded at1 #abd ,waterman1 ,mrs4 ,elizabeth1 #cie ,watling silk lace1 #dbb ,watt1 cited1 #dhb n#acbi ,weaving ,book1 #bhj ,webb1 ,mr41 #ea ,weber1 cited1 #bhj n#geh ,weigel1 ,christoph1 #eja ------1 ,joh4 ,christoph1 #ejb ,weisse1 ,c41 cited1 #bei n#fic1 #bfd n#gjg ,west ,indies1 ,spanish lace sold in1 #ajb n#bid ,westcote1 quoted1 #djj2 cited1 #dja ,westminster procession of lace-makers to1 #cfj ,st4 ,margaret's1 lace washing from1 #cgc n#aaja ------------1 ,dean of1 forbids yellow starch1 #cag ------------ ,abbey epitaph in cloisters of1 #ac lace on images in1 #caf n#ija1 #cde ,westphalia ,jutland industry improved by workers from1 #bgd thread1 fineness of1 #aai n#cci ,whisks1 #ccd ,whitcomb1 ,john1 widow of1 #ag ,white1 ,edward1 #dhb ------ ,knight's sale1 #dig ,wieselgren1 ,h41 cited1 #dic n#aced ,wight1 ,isle of1 lace industry of1 #cgb and n#ajig ,wigs1 cost of1 #cdi falling bands put out of fashion by1 #ccf ,wilhelmina of ,bayreuth1 #ii n#bhc ,willemin1 cited1 #dge n#acac ,william ,,iii41 period of1 #cda-cdf -------- of ,malmesbury1 quoted1 #f -------- of ,normandy1 #f-g -------- of ,poictiers1 quoted1 #g -------- the ,silent1 #bfj ,willingham1 ,geo41 letter to1 cited1 #ih n#bhb ,wilton1 ,lady1 cited1 #dig ,wiltshire and ,dorsetshire lace1 #cie-cih ,winchester1 lace purchased at1 by ,anne of ,denmark1 #cbj ----------1 ,lady ,marquis of1 #cji n#hgj ,wire1 gold and silver lace made from1 #gb ---- ground1 #chf ,wiseman1 ,cardinal1 lace alb used by1 #ib-ic ,wolfe1 ,i41 #dhb ,wolsey1 ,cardinal1 lace of1 #bib ,women1 lace work of1 compared with that of men1 #bfc ,woodbury ,maltese lace imitation made at1 #dad n#aafe men lace-makers at1 #dac ,woollen manufacture in ,england lace manufacture next to1 in #afih1 #djb loss to1 from edict against ,flanders lace #cda1 #cdb1 #cdi ,worcester1 ,countess of1 #cac ,wotton1 ,sir ,henry1 #acf n#che ,wraxall1 cited1 #aje1 #adb2 quoted1 #bfc ,wulff1 ,jens1 #bgf and n#gci ,wyatt1 ,sir ,thomas1 #bid ,wyriot1 ,madame1 #bje ,yarranton1 ,andrew1 quoted1 #aad-aae and n#cbg2 cited #bei n#fif ,yemenis1 ,m41 cited1 #dhh n#acci ,yokohama1 lace school at1 #dag ,yorck lace1 #ach n#cib ,york1 ,cardinal1 #dba ,youghal ,convent1 lace-making at1 #ddc1 #ddd ,young1 ,a41 cited1 #aib n#eeb1 #bjg1 #bbc1 #bbd1 #bdd2 quoted1 #bcd n#fbg1 #bci ,ypres ,valenciennes4 ,see under ,valenciennes ,yriarte1 ,charles1 cited1 #aei n#dfe ,zante1 ,greek lace made at1 #he ,zedler1 cited1 #eg ,zoppino1 ,nicolo1 #dfa1 #dfb ,zouch1 ,lord1 cited1 #acf n#che ,zurich1 sumptuary laws of1 #bgj and n#gbh ,,london3 ,,printed ,,by ,,william ,,clowes ,,and ,,sons1 ,,limited1 ,,duke ,,street1 ,,stamford ,,street1 ,s4,e41 ,,and #bh1 ,,great ,,windmill ,,street4 ,w4 ,notes #a ,wilkinson's ,ancient ,egyptians1 vol4 iii41 p4 #acd4 7,see ,illustration47 #b ,herodotus1 ii4 #ahb2 iii4 #dg4 #c ,ezekiel1 who takes up the cry of lamentation for ,tyrus1 situate at the entry of the sea1 a merchant of the people for many isles1 exclaims1 ,the merchants of ,sheba1 ,asshur1 and ,chilmad were thy merchants4 ,these were thy merchants in all sorts of things1 in blue cloths and broidered works1 and in chests of rich apparel4 ,another part of the same chapter mentions galley sails of fine linen with broidered work from ,egypt4--,ezekiel xxvii4 #d ,exodus xxvi42 xxvii42 xxxiv4 #b2 ,isaiah iii4 #ah2 #a ,kings vii4 #ag4 #e ,exodus xxxviii4 #bc4 #f ,again1 in the song of ,deborah1 the mother of ,sisera says1 ,have they not divided the prey8444 to ,sisera a prey of divers colours of needlework1 of divers colours of needlework on both sides4--,judges v4 #cj4 #g ,cantor ,lectures on the ,art of ,lace-making4 ,a4 ,s4 ,cole 7,london1 #ahha74 #h ,at ,athens the maidens who took part in the procession of the ,panathenaea embroidered the veil or peplos upon which the deeds of the goddess were embroidered4 ,the sacred peplos borne on the mast of a ship rolled on wheels in the ,panathenaic festival was destined for the sacred wooden idol1 ,athene ,polias1 which stood on the ,erechtheus4 ,this peplos was a woven mantle renewed every five years4 ,on the ground1 which is described as dark violet1 and also as saffron-coloured1 was inwoven the battle of the gods and the giants4 7,see page #dg1 ,british ,museum ,catalogue to the ,sculptures of the ,parthenon47 #i ,pliny1 ,hist4 ,nat41 viii4 #gd4 ,colores diversos picturae intexere ,babylon maxime celebravit et nomen imposuit4 #aj ,maspero1 ,the ,dawn of ,civilisation in ,egypt and ,chaldaea 7ed4 ,prof4 ,sayce74 #aa ,lefbure1 ,embroidery and ,lace 7trans4 ,a4 ,s4 ,cole74 #ab ,lucan1 ,pharsalia1 ,book ,x4 #ac ,the ,romans denominated such embroideries phrygionae1 and the embroiderer phrygio4 ,golden embroideries were specified as auriphrygium4 ,this word is the root of the ,french orfroi 7orfreys74 #ad ,mrs4 ,palliser quotes an extract from the author of ,letters from ,italy1 who1 speaking of the cabinet at ,portici1 mentions an elegant marble statue of ,diana dressed after the purple gowns worn by the ,roman ladies2 the garment is edged with a lace exactly resembling point2 it is an inch and a half broad1 and has been painted purple4 ,by an ,englishwoman 7,mrs4 ,millar7 in the years #aggj and #agga 7,london1 #aggg74 #ae ,strutt4 #af ,lefbure1 ,embroidery and ,lace4 #ag ,mrs4 ,bury ,palliser1 ,embroidery1 ,encyclopdia ,britannica4 #ah ,st4 ,giselle1 ,berthe's sister1 founded many convents in ,aquitaine and ,provence1 and taught the nuns all manner of needlework 7,lefbure1 ,embroidery and ,lace74 #ai ,chronique ,rime1 by ,philippe ,mousks4 #bj ,lefbure1 ,embroidery and ,lace4 #ba ,mrs4 ,palliser1 ,embroidery1 ,encyclopdia ,britannica4 #bb ,it has been suggested that the embroidery was done by ,william's granddaughter1 the ,empress ,matilda1 widow in #aabe of ,henry ,v41 ,emperor of ,germany1 and wife1 by her second marriage1 of ,geoffrey1 ,count of ,anjou 7,lefbure74 #bc ,mr4 ,fowke states that the tradition which would make the tapestry the handiwork of ,queen ,matilda cannot be traced further back than #ahjc1 when the tapestry was sent to ,paris for exhibition4 #bd ,matt4 ,par41 ,hist4 ,angl41 p4 #dgc1 ,edit4 ,paris1 #afdd4 #be ,mrs4 ,palliser1 ,embroidery1 ,encyclopdia ,britannica4 #bf ,at ,verona an artist took twenty-six years to execute in needlework the life of ,st4 ,john1 after the designs of ,pollajuolo4 #bg ,gaston1 ,duke of ,orleans1 established hot-houses and botanical gardens1 which he filled with rare exotics to supply the needle with new forms and richer tints 7,lefbure74 #bh ,we read1 for instance1 that ,gabrielle de ,bourbon1 wife of ,louis de la ,trmouille1 jamais n'estoit oyseuse1 mais s'employoit une partie de la journe en broderies et autres menus ouvrages appartenant telles dames1 et y occupoit ses demoyselles dont avoit bonne quantit1 et de grosses1 riches1 et illustres maisons4--,panegyric de ,loys de la ,trmoille par ,jean ,bouchet4 ,again ,vecellio dedicates his ,corona to ,signora ,nanni1 not only on account of the pleasure she takes in works of the needle1 but for il diletto che prende in farne essercitar le donne de casa sua1 ricetto delle pi virtuose giovani che hoggidi vivono in questa citt4 ,it is usual here1 writes a lady from ,madrid in #afgi1 for good families to put their daughters to ladies1 by whom they are employed to embroider in gold and silver1 or various colours1 or in silk1 about the shift1 neck1 and hands4 ,i jor fist es chambre son pere1 ,une estole et i amict pere1 ,de soie et d'or molt soutilment1 ,si i fait ententivement ,mainte croisette et mainte estoile1 ,et dist ceste chancon toile4 --,roman de la ,violette4 ,one day1 seated in her father's room1 she was skilfully working a stole and amict in silk and gold1 and she was making in it1 with great care1 many a little cross and many a little star1 singing all the while this chanson toile4 #cj ,in one of ,edward ,i4 we find a charge of eight shillings for silk bought for the embroidery work of ,margaret1 the ,king's daughter1 and another for four ounces of silk1 two hundred ounces of gold thread1 a spindle1 etc4--,liber de ,garderoba1 #bc ,edw4 ,i41 ,public ,record ,office4 ,in one of ,edward ,,iii4 the sum of #b #gs4 #b;d4 is expended in the purchase of gold thread1 silk1 etc41 for his second daughter ,joanna4--,liber ,garderobae1 #ab-af ,edw4 ,,iii41 ,public ,record ,office4 ,elizabeth of ,york worked much at her needle4 ,in the account of her household1 preserved in the ,public ,record ,office1 every page of which is signed by ,queen ,elizabeth herself1 we find-- ,to ,evan ,petreson joiner1 for the stuff and making of #d working stools for the ,queen2 price of the stool #af pence--#es4 #d;d4 ,to ,thomas ,fissch1 for an elne of linen cloth for a samplar for the queen1 #h;d4 ,in the ,inventory #d ,edward ,,vi41 #aeeb 7,harl4 ,,mss4 ,no4 #adai71 are entries of-- ,item1 ,,xii4 samplars 7p4 #dai74 ,item1 one samplar of ,normandie canvas1 wrought with green and black silk 7p4 #ebd74 ,a book of parchment containing diverses patternes 7p4 #dgd71 probably purchases for his sisters4 #ca ,see1 for instance1 the interesting account of the ,countess of ,oxford1 given by ,miss ,strickland in her ,life of ,queen ,elizabeth of ,york4 #cb ,these are alluded to in the dialogue between ,industria and ,ignavia1 as given in ,sibmacher's ,modelbuch1 #afja 7,french translation73 ,la vieille dame raconte l'histoire des concours de travail l'aiguille chez les anciens ,espagnols2 comme ,isabelle1 femme de ,ferdinand1 a hautement estim les travaux de l'aiguille4 ,the ,spanish stitch1 so often mentioned1 was brought in by ,katharine1 on her marriage with ,prince ,arthur1 in #aeja4 ,we have constantly in her wardrobe accounts sheets and pillow-beres1 wrought with ,spanish work of black silk at the edge4 ,in the ,inventory of ,lord ,monteagle1 #aebc 7,public ,record ,office17 are eight partlets1 three garnished with gold1 the rest with ,spanish work4 ,in #aeef1 among the ,new ,year's gifts presented to ,queen ,mary ,tudor1 most of the smocks are wrought with black silk1 ,spanish fashion4 ,in the ,great ,wardrobe ,accounts of ,queen ,elizabeth1 #c #d1 ,public ,record ,office1 we have sixteen yards of ,spanish work for ruffs4 ,twelve tooth cloths1 with the ,spanish stitch1 edged with gold and silver bone lace4--,ibid4 ,eliz4 #e #f4 ,the ,spanish stitch appears in ,france with ,henry ,,ii41 #aeeg4 ,pour la faon d'ung gaban avec ung grant collet chamarrez l',espaignolle de passement blanc1 etc4--,comptes de l',argentier du ,roy4 ,archives ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #ajf4 #cc ,taylor1 the ,water ,poet1 ,katharine of ,aragon4 #cd ,the industry of ,henry's last queen was as great as that of his first4 ,specimens still exist at ,sizergh ,castle1 ,westmoreland1 of ,katharine ,parr's needlework--a counterpane and a toilet cover4 ,an astrologer1 who cast her nativity1 foretold she would be a queen2 so when a child1 on her mother requiring her to work1 she would exclaim1 ,my hands are ordained to touch crowns and sceptres1 not needles and spindles4 #ce ,dames ,illustres4 #cf ,the ,reine des ,marguerites1 the learned sister of ,francis ,i41 was not less accomplished with her needle1 and entries for working materials appear in her accounts up to the year of her death1 #aedi4 ,trois marcs d'or et d'argent fournis par ,jehan ,danes1 pour servir aux ouvraiges de la dicte dame4--,livre de dpenses de ,marguerite d',angoulme1 par le ,comte de la ,ferrire-,percy4 ,paris1 #ahfb4 ,elle addonoit son courage ,a faire maint bel ouvrage ,dessus la toile1 et encor ,a joindre la soye et l'or4 ,vous d'un pareil exercise ,mariez par artifice ,dessus la toile en maint trait ,l'or et la soie en pourtrait4 --,ode la ,royne de ,navarre1 liv4 ii41 od4 vii4 #ch #achj4 ,oeuvre de nonnain4--,inventaire de ,charles ,v4 #ci ,my grandmother1 who had other lace1 called this 7some needlepoint7 nun's work4--,extract from a letter from the ,isle of ,man1 #ahfb4 ,a butcher's wife showed ,miss ,o---- a piece of ,alenon point1 which she called 'nun's work4'--,extract from a letter from ,scotland1 #ahfc4 #afih1 ,may4 ,in the ,london ,gazette1 in the advertisement of a sale by auction1 among other rich goods1 we find nun's work1 but the term here probably applies to netting1 for in the ,protestant ,post ,boy of ,march #aeth1 #afib1 is advertised as lost ,a nun's work purse wrought with gold thread4 #agfc4 ,in the ,edinburgh ,advertiser appears1 ,imported from the ,grand ,canaries1 into ,scotland1 nun's work4 #dj ,as1 for instance1 the imbrothering of the monks of the monastery of ,wolstrope1 in ,lincolnshire4 #da ,livre de ,lingerie4 ,dom4 de ,sera1 #aeha4 ,donne1 donzelle1 con gli huomini4--,taglienti1 #aecj4 ,patterns which les ,seigneurs1 ,dames1 et ,damoiselles ont eu pour agrables4--,vinciolo1 #aehg4 #db ,jehan ,mayol1 carme de ,lyon2 ,fra ,hieronimo1 dell' ,ordine dei ,servi2 ,pre ,dominique1 religieux carme1 and others4 #dc ,one in the ,bibliothque ,impriale is from the ,monasterio ,st4 ,germani ,pratis4 #dd ,he died in #aeie4 ,lives of the ,earl and ,countess of ,arundel1 from the original ,,ms4 by the ,duke of ,norfolk4 ,london1 #aheg4 #de ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 ,calendar of ,state ,papers4 ,domestic4 ,charles ,i4 ,vol4 clxix4 #ab4 #df ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 ,calendar of ,state ,papers4 ,colonial4 ,no4 #ghi4 #dg ,see his epigram1 ,the ,royal ,knotter1 about the queen1 ,who1 when she rides in coach abroad ,is always knotting threads4 #dh ,translated from the ,libellus de ,admirandis beati ,cuthberti ,miraculis of ,reginald1 monk of ,durham1 by ,rev4 ,j4 ,rain4 ,durham1 #ahee4 #di ,chronicle of ,john ,hardyng1 circ4 #adgj4 #ej ,temp4 ,rich4 ,,ii4 ,in their garments so much pouncing of chesell to make holes1 so much dragging 7zigzagging7 of sheers1 etc4--,good ,parson1 ,chaucer4 #ea ,percy1 ,reliques of ,ancient ,poetry1 vol4 iii4 #eb ,anatomie of ,abuses1 by ,philip ,stubbes1 #aehc4 #ec ,the ,shyp of ,folys of the ,worlde1 translated out of ,latin by ,alex4 ,barclay1 #aejh4 #ed ,the inventories of all nations abound in mention of these costly articles4 ,the smocks of ,katharine of ,aragon for to lay in1 were wrought about the collar with gold and silk4 ,lord ,monteagle1 #aebc1 had two fine smocks of cambric wrought with gold4 7,inv4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o47 ,among the ,new ,year's ,gifts offered to ,queen ,mary ,tudor by the ,duchess of ,somerset 7#aeef71 we find a smock wrought over with silk1 and collar and ruffles of damask1 gold purl1 and silver4 ,again1 in the household expenses of ,marguerite de ,france1 #aede1 we find a charge of #d livres #ab sols1 pour une garniture de chemise ouvr de soye cramoisie pour madicte dame4--7,bib4 ,imp4 ,,mss4 ,fonds ,franois1 #aj1cid47 ,about the same date 7,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #a #b1 #aeeh-ei7 appear charges for lengthening one smocke of drawne work1 #bjs4 ,six white smockes edged with white needlework lace1 #ajs4 ,to overcasting and edging #d smockes of drawn work with ruffs1 wristbands1 and collars1 three of them with black work1 and three of them with red1 etc4 ,at the funeral of ,henry ,,ii4 of ,france1 #aeei1 the effigy was described as attired in une chemise de toile de ,hollande1 borde au col et aux manches d'ouvraige fort excellent4--,godefroy1 ,le ,crmonial de ,france1 #afaj4 #ee ,see ,,france4 #ef ,the pillow-bere has always been an object of luxury1 a custom not yet extinct in ,france1 where the taies d'oreiller1 brodes aux armes1 and trimmed with a rich point1 form an important feature in a modern trousseau4 ,in the inventory of ,margaret of ,austria1 the gentle governess of the ,low ,countries1 are noted-- ,quatre toyes d'oraillers ouvres d'or et de soye cramoysie et de verde4 ,autres quatres toyes d'oraillers faites et ouvres d'or et de soye bleu losanges qui ont estes donnes ,madame par dom ,diego de ,cabrera4--,corr4 de l',empereur ,maximilien ,i4 et de ,marguerite d',autriche1 par ,m4 ,leglay4 ,paris1 #ahci4 ,edward ,,vi4 has 7,harl4 ,,mss4 #adai7 #ah pillow-beres of hollande with brode seams of silk of sundry coloured needlework4 ,and again1 ,one pillow-bere of fine hollande wrought with a brode seam of ,venice gold and silver1 and silk nedlework4 ,and ,lady ,zouche presents ,queen ,elizabeth1 as a ,new ,year's gift1 with ,one pair of pillow-beares of ,holland work1 wrought with black silk drawne work4--,nichol's ,royal ,progresses4 #eg ,goderonn--goudronn1 incorrectly derived from pitch 7goudron71 has no relation to stiffness or starch1 but is used to designate the fluted pattern so much in vogue in the sixteenth century--the gadrooned edge of silversmiths4 #aehh4 ,il avait une fraise empese et godronne gros godrons1 au bout de laquelle il y avoit de belle et grande dentelle1 les manchettes estoient goudronnes de mesme4 #eh ,they are introduced into the ,title page of this work4 #ei ,see ,,appendix4 #fj ,quintain1 quintin1 ,french lawne4 ,randle ,cotgrave4 ,dictionarie of the ,french and ,english tongues4 #afaa4 #bf virges de ,kanting pro sudariis pro ille #dg_/h4--;,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,charles ,,ii41 #afhc-d4 #fa ,lacis1 espce d'ouvrage de fil ou de soie fait en forme de filet ou de rseuil dont les brins taient entre-lacez les uns dans les autres4--,dict4 d',ant4 ,furetire1 #afhd4 #fb ,ble ,prerie contenant differentes sortes de lettres1 etc41 pour appliquer sur le rseuil ou lassis4 ,paris1 #afja4 ,see ,,appendix4 #fc ,so1 in the ,epistle to the ,reader1 in a ,pattern-book for ,cut-works 7,london1 ,j4 ,wolfe ,edward ,white1 #aeia71 the author writes of his designs3-- ,all which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order the one is formed or made by the other1 and soe proceedeth forward2 whereby with more ease they may be sewed and wrought in cloth1 and keeping true accompt of the threads1 maintaine the bewtey of the worke4 ,and more1 who desyreth to bring the work into a lesser forme1 let them make the squares lesse4 ,and if greater1 then inlarge them1 and so may you worke in divers sortes1 either by stitch1 pouncing or pouldering upon the same as you please4 ,alsoe it is to be understood that these squares serve not only for cut-workes1 but alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching4--7,see ,,appendix1 ,no4 #gb74 #fd ,pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du trs excellent ,milour ,matthias ,mignerak1 etc4 ,paris1 #afje4 ,see ,,appendix4 #fe ,the inventories of ,charles de ,bourbon1 ob4 #afac1 with that of his wife1 the ,countess of ,soissons1 made after her death1 #afdd 7,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1dbf71 alone prove how much this rseuil was in vogue for furniture during the seventeenth century4 ,item un pavilion de thoille de lin bende de reseuil blang et noir faict par carel pris1 vi4 l4 t4 7livres tournois74 ,item quatre pentes de ciel de cotton blanc carreaux4 ,item trois pentes de ciel de thoille de lin carreaux et raiseuil recouvert avec le dossier pareil estoffe1 et petit carreau point coupp garny de leur frange1 le fonds du ciel de thoille de lin1 trois custodes et une bonne grace et un drap pareille thoille de lin bandes de reseuil recouvert 444 pris xviii4 l4 t4--,inv4 de ,charles de ,bourbon4 ,item une autre tapisserie de rezeuil de thoile blanche en huit pices contenant ensemble vingt aulnes on environ sur deux aulnes trois quarts de haute4 ,item une autre tenture de tapisserie de rzeau tout de leine 7lin7 applique sur de la toille blanche en sept pices contenant dix-huit aulnes de cours sur trois aulnes de haute4 ,item trois pantes1 fonds de dossier1 les deux fourreaux de piliers1 la converture de parade1 le tout en point coupp et toill4 ,item1 une garniture de lict blanc1 faict par carr d'ouvrage de poinct coupp1 le tout garny avec la couverte de parade1 pris la somme de soixante livres tournois4--,inv4 de la ,comtesse de ,soissons4 #ff ,dated #bj ,feb41 #aehg4 ,now in the ,record ,office1 ,edinburgh4 #fg #agha4 ,dix-huit ,pales de differentes grandeurs1 tous de toile garnis tant de petite dentelle que de filet brod4--,inv4 de l',eglise de ,s4 ,gervais4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,l4,l4 #fed4 #fh ,point and ,pillow ,lace1 by ,a4 ,m4 ,s4 7,london1 #ahii74 #fi ,in the ,record ,office1 ,edinburgh4 #gj ,mache1 the ,masches 7meshes7 or holes of a net between the thread and thread 7,cotgrave74 #ga ,comptes de la ,reine de ,navarre1 #aegg4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4,k4 #afb4 #gb ,inventory of ,catherine de ,mdicis1 ,bonaff4 #gc ,randle ,holme1 in ,the ,school ,mistris ,terms of ,art for all her ,ways of ,sewing1 has ,a ,samcloth1 vulgarly1 a ,samplar4 #gd ,in the ,bock collection1 part of which has since been bought for the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum1 are specimens of rzeuil d'or1 or network with patterns worked in with gold thread and coloured silks4 ,such were the richly-wrought serviettes sur filez d'or of ,margaret of ,austria4 ,autre servyette de ,cabes 7,cadiz7 ouvre d'or1 d'argent sur fillez et borde d'or et de gris4 ,autre serviette ,cabes de soye grise et verde ouvrage de fillez borde d'une tresse de verd et gris4--,inventory already quoted4 #ge ,le ,gan1 de ,jean ,godard1 ,parisien1 #aehh4 #gf ,descriptive ,catalogue of the ,collections of ,tapestry and ,embroidery in the ,south ,kensington ,museum 7p4 #e74 #gg ,lace4 ,french1 dentelle2 ,german1 ,spitzen2 ,italian1 merletto1 trina2 ,genoa1 pizzo2 ,spanish1 encaje2 ,dutch1 kanten4 #gh ,statute #c ,edw4 ,,iv4 c4 iii4 #gi ,passement1 a lace or lacing4--,cotgrave4 #hj ,not in those of ,rob4 ,estienne1 #aedi2 ,frre de l',aval1 #aedi2 or ,nicot1 #afjf4 ,cotgrave has1 ,dentelle1 small edging 7and indented71 bone-lace1 or needlework4 ,in ,dict4 de l',acadmie1 #afid1 we find1 ,dentelle1 sorte de passement jour et mailles tres fines ainsi nomm parceque les premires qu'on fit etoient denteles4 #ha ,comptes de l',argentier du ,roi1 #aeeg4--;,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #ajf4 ,passement de fine soie noire dentelle d'un cost4 ,passement blanc1 grise1 also occur4 #hb ,argenterie de la ,reine1 #aeef4--;,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #aah4 #hc ,dpenses de la maison de ,madame ,marguerite de ,france1 soeur du ,roi4--,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aj1cid1 fol4 #fb4 #hd ,plus de delivr une pacque de petite dentelle qui est estez cousu ensemble pour mettre sur les coutures des rideaux des ditz litz contenant #hj aunes4--,rec4 ,off41 ,edin4 ,this custom of trimming the seams of bed-curtains with a lace indented on both sides was common throughout ,europe4 ,in the ,chartley ,inv4 of ,mary ,stuart1 #aehf1 one of the ,vasquines 7jackets7 is described1 ,autre de satin noir descouppe a descouppemie dentels4 #he #aegg4 ,pour deux aulnes de passement d'argent a hautte dantelle pour mettre ung renvers1 au pris de soixante solz l'aulne4 ,pour une aulne de dentelle pour faire deux cornettes pour servir la dicte dame1 quatre livres4--,cptes4 de la ,reine de ,navarre4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #afb4 #hf ,see ,,appendix4 #hg ,petits et grands passements2 id4 l'esguille2 id4 faict au mestier2 id4 de ,flandres poinctes2 id4 orang jour2 id4 de ,flandres satin2 with reseuil1 dantelles1 grandes et petites1 or1 argent1 etc4--,inv4 de ,madame1 soeur du ,roi4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #bcd4 ,so late as #afde1 in the inventory of the church of ,st4 ,mdard at ,paris 7,arch de l',emp4 ,l4 ,l4 #heh71 the word is used4 ,we find1 ,quatre tours de chaire de thoille baptiste1 ung beau surplis pour le predicateur1 six autres1 cinq corporaulx1 all grand passement4 ,also1 deux petits corporaulx petit passement1 and trois tours de chaire garnyz de grand passement dentelle4 #hh ,inv4 apres le decs de ,mgr4 le ,marchal de ,la ,motte4--,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1dbf4 #hi ,the ,french terms are more comprehensive3-- ,champ1 fond travaill jour4 ,toil1 fleurs entirement remplies1 formant un tissu sans jour4 ,grill1 grillage1 plein4 ,also flowers--but distinguished from toil by having little square spaces between the thread 7grill1 grating71 the work not being so compact4 ,on appelle couleuvre1 une blond dont le toil continue serpente entre deux rangs de grillage4--,roland de la ,platire 7the ,girondin74 ,art4 ,dentelle1 ,encyclopdie ,mthodique4 ,paris1 #aghj4 #ij ,storehouse of ,armory and ,blason4 #afhh4 #ia ,brides--petits tissus de fil qui servent joindre les fleurs les unes avec les autres dans l'espce de dentelle qu'on appelle ,point de ,france1 de ,venise1 de ,malines4--,dict de l',acadmie4 #ib ,une robe et tablier1 garnis d'une dentelle d',angleterre picot4--,inv4 de decs de la ,duchesse de ,bourbon4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,x4 #aj1jfd4 #ic ,une chemisette de toile d'hollande garnye de point de ,paris4--,inv4 d',anne d',escoubleau1 ,baronne de ,sourdis1 veuve de ,franois de ,simiane4 #afha4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,m4 ,m4 #hjb4 #id ,cette dernire sorte de point se fait aux fuseaux4--,dict4 du ,p4 ,richelet4 ,lyon4 #agei4 #ie ,dict4 d',ant4 ,furetire4 ,augment par ,m4 ,basnage4 ,la ,haye1 #agbg4 #if #afef4 #ig #afea4 ,huit aulnes de toile commune garnies de neige4--,inv4 des emubles de la ,sacristie de l',oratoire de ,jsus1 ,paris4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #hfba4 ,neuf autres petites nappes2 les deux premires de toile unie2 la troisime dentelle quallifi de neige4--,ibid4 #ih ,french1 dentelle fuseaux2 ,italian1 merli a piombini2 ,dutch1 gespeldewerkte kant2 ,old ,flemish1 spelle werk4 #ii ,french1 carreau1 cousin1 oreiller2 ,italian1 tombolo2 ,venice1 ballon2 ,spanish1 mundillo4 #ajj ,see ,chapter ,,xxiv4 #aja ,the number of bobbins is generally equal to #ej to each square inch4 ,if the lace be one inch wide1 it will have #fbe meshes in each square inch1 or #bb1ejj in a yard4 ,the work1 therefore1 goes on very slowly1 though generally performed with the greatest dexterity4 #ajb ,at ,gisors1 ,saint-,denis1 ,montmorency1 and ,villiers-le-,bel4--,savary1 ,grand ,dict4 du ,commerce1 #agbj4 ,cotgrave gives1 ,bisette1 a plate 7of gold1 silver1 or copper7 wherewith some kinds of stuffes are stripped4 ,oudin1 ,feuille ou paillette d'or ou d'argent4 ,in these significations it frequently occurs4 ,we find with numerous others3 #aede4 #ee sols pour une once bizette d'argent pour mectre des colletz4 ,six aulnes bizette de soie noire pour mettre sur une robbe1 lv4 s41 in the ,accounts of ,madame ,marguerite de ,france4 7,bib4 ,nat47 #aeeg4 ,bizette de soye incarnatte et jaulne pour chamarrer ung pourpoint de satin rouge of ,henry ,,ii4--,cptes4 de l',argentier du ,roi4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #ajf4 #aegi4 ,petite bizette d'or fin dentellez des deux costez pour servir desmanches de satin cramoisy of ,catherine de ,mdicis4--,trsorerie de la royne mre du roy4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #aae4 ,in the ,chartley ,inv4 #aehf1 of ,mary ,stuart1 is mentioned1 ,un plotton de bisette noire4 #ajc ,dict4 de l',acadmie4 #ajd ,campane1 from sonnette1 clochette1 mme grlot4 ,les sonnettes dont on charge les habits pour ornement4 ,les festons qu'on met aux toffes et aux dentelles4--,oudin4 #aje ,public ,record ,office4 #ajf ,in the last century it was much the fashion to trim the scalloped edges of a broader lace with a narrower1 which was called to campaner4 #agbj4 ,une garniture de teste trois pices de dentelle d',angleterre raiseau1 garni autour d'une campane dents4--,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,bourbon4 #agda4 ,une paire de manches trois rangs de ,malines raizeau campane4--,inv4 de decs de ,mademoiselle ,marie ,anne de ,bourbon de ,clermont4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,x4 #aa1jga4 7,daughter of ,mademoiselle de ,nantes and ,louis ,duke de ,bourbon47 ,une coffure de ,malines raizeau deux pices campane4--,ibid4 ,in the lace bills of ,madame du ,barry1 preserved in the ,bib4 ,nat41 are various entries of ,angleterre et point l'aiguille1 campane des deux cts for ruffles1 camisoles1 etc4 #ajg #agei4 ,huit palatines tant points que mignonettes4--,inv4 de decs de ,louise ,henriette de ,bourbon-,conty1 ,princesse du ,sang1 ,duchesse de ,orlans4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,x4 #aj1jgg4 ,trente-vingt paires de manchettes1 quatre coffures1 le tout tant de differents points qu',angleterre1 mignonettes que tulles4--,ibid4 #ajh #ageh4 ,une paire de manchettes trois rangs de blonde de fil sur entoilage4--,inv4 de ,mademoiselle ,louise ,anne de ,bourbon ,cond de ,charollais 7sister of ,mademoiselle de ,clermont74 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,x4 #aj1jgf4 #agfa4 ,fichus garnis trois rangs de blonde de fil sur entoilage4--,inv4 de ,charlotte ,agla d',orlans1 ,princesse du ,sang1 ,duchesse de ,modne 7daughter of the ,regent74 #aghi4 ,ruffles of blonde de fil appear also in the ,inv4 de decs de ,monseigneur le ,duc de ,duras4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1ddj4 #aji ,mostly at ,bayeux4 #aaj ,on employe aussi pour les coffures de la mignonette1 et on a tellement perfectionn cette dentelle1 que estant peu de chose dans son commencement est devenue de consequence et mme trs chre1 j'entends1 la plus fine qu'on fait sur de beaux patrons4--,le ,mercure ,galant1 #afii4 #aaa ,guiper4 ,tordre les fils pendans d'une frange par le moyen de l'instrument qu'on nomme guipoir1 fer crochu d'un ct1 et charg de l'autre d'un petit morceau de plomb pour lui donner du poids4--,savary4 #aab ,guipure4 ,a grosse black thread covered or whipped about with silk4--,cotgrave4 ,guipure4 ,manire de dentelle de soie o il y a des figures de rose ou d'autres fleurs1 et qui sert parer les jupes des dames4444 ,sa jupe est pleine de guipure4--,dict4 du ,p4 ,richelet4 #agei4 #aac ,roland4 ,we cannot help thinking this a mistake4 ,in the statutes of the ,passementiers1 we find mention of buttons ttes de mort1 or would it rather be tte de moire1 from the black moire hoods 7ttes7 worn by the ,italian women1 which were often edged with a narrow guipure8 #aad ,les lieux en ,france o il se fait le plus de guipures1 sont ,saint-,denis-en-,france1 ,villiers-le-,bel1 ,ecoun1 ,arcelles1 ,saint-,brice1 ,groslait1 ,montmorency1 ,tremblay1 ,villepinte1 etc4 #aae ,the sale of ,guipures belonged to the master mercers1 the workmanship to the passementiers boutonniers4 ,we find in the ,livre ,commode ou les ,adresses de la ,ville de ,paris for #afib1 that ,guipures et galons de soye se vendent sur le ,petit ,pont et rue aux ,febvres1 o l'on vend aussi des galons de livres4 #aaf ,godefroy4 ,le ,crmonial de ,france1 #afaj4 ,sacre du ,roy ,henry ,,ii41 #aedg4 #aag ,in #aedi4 ,ibid4 #aah ,trait des ,marques ,nationales1 dar ,m4 ,beneton de ,morange de ,peyrins4 ,paris1 #agci4 #aai ,in the ,record ,office1 ,edinburgh4 #abj ,une robe de velours vert couverte de ,broderies1 gimpeures1 et cordons d'or et d'argent1 et borde d'un passement de mme4 ,une robe veluat cramoisi bande de broderie de guimpeure d'argent4 ,une robe de satin blanc chamarre de broderie faite de guimpeure d'or4 ,id4 de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure1 etc4 ,robe de weloux noyr seme geynpeurs d'or4 #aba ,dictionnaire de l',acadmie4 #abb #aecf-dd4 ,sir ,fred4 ,madden4 #b payr of sleeves whereof one of gold wh p'chemene lace1 etc4 #b prs4 of sleves wh pchmyn lase1 #h_/f4 #abc ,ecclesiastical ,memoirs1 iii4 #b1 #afg4 #abd ,state ,papers1 vol4 #hb1 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #abe ,surtees' ,society1 ,durham1 ,wills and ,inventories4 #abf #aegb4 ,thynne1 in his ,debate between ,pride and ,lowliness1 describes a coat layd upon with parchment lace withoute4 #abg ,b4 ,m4 ,add4 ,,mss4 ,no4 #egea4 #abh ,roll4 #afjg4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #abi ,ibid4 #afbf4 #aa nightcaps of coloured satin1 laid on thick1 with gold and silver parchment lace1 #da4 #i4 #i4 #acj ,roll4 #afcj4 #aca ,eidem pro novemdecem virg et dim aure et argente pergamen lacini pondent sexdecim unc #b_/;dram #a_/scruple venet4 444 pro consuat ad ornand duas sedes utroque latere thron in domo ,parliament4--,gt4 ,ward4 ,acc4 ,car4 ,,ii4 xxx4 and xxxi4 #afgh-i4 ,in #afgb-gc is an entry for #b virgis teni pergamen4 #acb ,surtees' ,inventories4 #acc ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #hfba4 #acd ,in the ,recueil de pices les plus agrables de ce temps1 composes par divers autheurs4 ,paris1 chez ,charles ,sercy1 ,,mdclxi4 ,the poem is dedicated to ,mademoiselle de la ,trousse1 cousin of ,madame de ,svign1 and was probably written by one of her coterie4 #ace ,the ,cravates or ,croates soldiers had a band of stuff round their throats to support an amulet they wore as a charm to protect them from sabre-cuts4 ,what began in superstition ended in fashion4 #acf ,these were1 in ,france1 ,guibray1 ,beaucaire1 and ,bordeaux2 in ,germany1 ,frankfort2 in ,italy1 ,novi4 #acg ,all articles of luxury were to be met with at the provincial fairs4 ,when1 in #afga1 ,catherine of ,braganza1 the ,duchess of ,richmond1 and the ,duke of ,buckingham1 visited ,saffron ,walden fair1 the ,queen asked for a pair of yellow stockings1 and ,sir ,bernard ,gascoyne1 for a pair of gloves stitched with blue4 #ach #aj ,hen4 ,,iii41 ,devon's ,issues of the ,exchequer4 #aci ,no lace-woman1 says ,ben ,jonson1 that brings ,french masks and cut-works4 ,that lace was sold by pedlars in the time of ,henry ,,viii41 we find from a play1 ,the ,four ,p's1 written in #aedd1 by ,john ,heywood4 ,among the contents of a pedlar's box are given lasses knotted1 laces round and flat for women's heads1 sleeve laces1 etc4 ,on opening the box of the murdered pedlar 7,fool of ,quality1 #agff71 they found therein silk1 linen1 laces1 etc4 #adj ,defoe describes ,sturbridge fair as the greatest of all ,europe4 ,nor1 says he1 are the fairs of ,leipsig in ,saxony1 the ,mart at ,frankfort-on-the-,maine1 or the fair of ,nuremburg or ,augsburg1 any way comparable to this fair of ,sturbridge4 ,in #adbc1 the citizens of ,london and the suburbs being accused of sending works of embroidery of gold1 or silver1 of ,cipre1 or of gold of ,luk1 togedre with ,spanish ,laton of insuffisant stuff to the fayres of ,sturesbrugg1 ,ely1 ,oxenford1 and ,salisbury--in fact1 of palming off inferior goods for country use--all such are forfeited4--,rot4 ,parl41 #b ,hen4 ,,vi41 nu4 #di4 #ada ,lingua1 or the ,combat of the ,tongue4 ,a ,comedy4 #afjg4 #adb ,this system of colporteurs dates from the early ,greeks4 ,they are termed both in ,greek and ,hebrew1 des voyageurs4 #adc ,she came to the house under the pretence of offering some lace1 holland1 and fine tea1 remarkably cheap4--,female ,spectator4 #ageg4 #add ,the centres of the lace manufacture before #affe were3-- ,,belgium ,brussels1 ,mechlin1 ,antwerp1 ,lige1 ,louvain1 ,binche1 ,bruges1 ,ghent1 ,ypres1 ,courtray1 etc4 ,,france 7,spread over more than ten ,provinces7-- ,artois ,arras 7,pas-de-,calais74 ,french ,flanders ,lille1 ,valenciennes1 ,bailleul 7,nord74 ,normandy ,dieppe1 ,le ,hvre 7,seine-,infrieure74 ,ile de ,france ,paris and its environs4 ,auvergne ,aurillac 7,cantal74 ,velay ,le ,puy 7,haute-,loire74 ,lorraine ,mirecourt 7,vosges74 ,burgundy ,dijon 7,cte-d'or74 ,champagne ,charleville1 ,sedan 7,ardennes74 ,lyonnais ,lyon 7,rhne74 ,poitou ,loudun 7,vienne74 ,languedoc ,muret 7,haute-,garonne74 ,,italy ,genoa1 ,venice1 ,milan1 ,ragusa1 etc4 ,,spain ,la ,mancha1 and in ,catalonia especially4 ,,germany ,saxony1 ,bohemia1 ,hungary1 ,denmark1 and ,principality of ,gotha4 ,,england ,counties of ,bedford1 ,bucks1 ,dorset1 and ,devon4 #ade ,industrial ,arts of the ,nineteenth ,century1 ,digby ,wyatt4 #adf ,francesco ,nardi4 ,sull' ,origine dell' ,arte del ,ricamo4 ,padova1 #ahci4 #adg ,ricamare4 ,recamar4 #adh ,the traditions of the ,low ,countries also point to an ,eastern origin1 assigning the introduction of lace-making to the ,crusaders1 on their return from the ,holy ,land4 #adi ,origine ed ,uso delle ,trine a filo di refe 7thread71 #ahfd4 ,privately printed4 #aej #adfi4--;,io1 ,battista de ,nicollo d',andrea da ,ferrara1 debio avere per mia manifatura et reve per cuxere et candelle per inzirare4444 ,it4 per desgramitare e refilare e inzirare e ripezare e reapicare le gramite a camixi quatordece per li signori calonexi1 et per li1 mansonarij le qual gramite staxea malissimamente1 p4 che alcune persone le a guaste1 ,lire #a #aj4 ,it4 per reve et p4 candelle1 ,l4 #j #e4 #adfi4--;,i1 ,baptist de ,nicollo of ,andrea da ,ferrara1 having owing to me for my making1 and thread to sew1 and candles to wax4444 ,item1 for untrimming and re-weaving and waxing and refixing and rejoining the trimmings of fourteen albs for the canons and attendants of the church1 the which trimmings were in a very bad state1 because some persons had spoiled them1 ,l4 #a #aj4 ,it4 for thread and wax1 ,l4 #j #e4 ,these trimmings 7gramite71 ,cav4 ,merli thinks1 were probably trine4 ,at ,chicago was exhibited the first kind of net used in ,italy as lace on garments4 ,it is made of a very fine linen or silk mesh1 stiffened with wax and embroidered in silk thread4 ,it was in use during the fourteenth century1 and part of the fifteenth 7,guide to ,new and ,old ,lace in ,italy1 ,c4 di ,brazza1 #ahic74 ,this is probably the gramite1 or trimmings of the albs1 mentioned in the account book formerly belonging to the ,cathedral of ,ferrara1 and now preserved in the ,municipal ,archives of that city4 #aea ,see ,,milan4 #aeb ,trina1 like our word lace1 is used in a general sense for braid or passement4 ,florio1 in his ,dictionary 7,a ,worlde of ,words1 ,john ,florio1 ,london1 #aeih71 gives ,trine--cuts1 snips1 pincke worke on garments2 and ,trinci--gardings1 fringings1 lacings1 etc41 or other ornaments of garments4 ,merlo1 merletto1 are the more modern terms for lace4 ,we find the first as early as the poet ,firenzuola 7see ,,florence74 ,it does not occur in any pattern book of an older date than the ,fiori da ,ricami of ,pasini1 and the two works of ,francesco de' ,franceschi1 all printed in #aeia4 #aec ,the laces1 both white and gold1 depicted in the celebrated picture of the ,visit of the ,queen of ,sheba to ,solomon1 by ,lavinia ,fontana1 now in the ,lambeccari ,gallery1 executed in the sixteenth century1 prove that white lace was in general use in the ,italian ,courts at that epoch4 #aed ,at present1 if you show an ,italian a piece of old lace1 he will exclaim1 ,opera di monache2 roba di chiesa4 #aee ,statute #b1 ,henry ,,vi41 #adbc4 ,the first great treaty between the ,venetians and ,henry ,,vii4 was in #aejg4 #aef ,privy ,purse ,expenses of ,elizabeth of ,york1 #aejb4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 ,also published by ,sir ,h4 ,nicolas4 #aeg ,inv4 ,henry ,,viii4 #aeh ,gremio1 when suing for ,bianca1 enumerates among his wealth in ivory coffers stuffed1 ,turkey cushions bossed with pearl2 valance of ,venice gold in needlework4--,taming of the ,shrew4 #aei ,one jerkyn of cloth of silver with long cuts down righte1 bound with a billament lace of ,venice silver and black silk4--,robes of the late ,king 7,edward ,,vi474 #afj ,a smock of cambrik wrought about the collar and sleeves with black silke2 the ruffe wrought with ,venice gold and edged with a small bone lace of ,venice gold4--,christmas ,presents to the ,queen1 by ,sir ,g4 ,carew4 #g ounces of ,venice 'laquei bone' of gold and black silk2 lace ruff edged with ,venice gold lace1 etc4 ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz41 passim1 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #afa #aehg4 #afb ,madame de ,puissieux died in #afgg1 at the age of eighty4 #afc ,venice points are not mentioned by name till the ordinance of #afed4 ,see ,,greek ,,islands4 #afd ,hudibras4 #afe ,italy we believe to have furnished her own thread4 ,fine white or nun's thread is made by the ,augustine nuns of ,crema1 twisted after the same manner as the silk of ,bolonia1 writes ,skippin1 #afea4 #aff ,halimedia opuntia1 ,linn4 #afg ,that most frequently met with is the ,corona of ,vecellio4 ,see ,,appendix4 #afh ,first mentioned in the ,sforza ,inventory1 #adic 7see ,,milan72 not in the pattern-books till ,vecellio1 #aeib2 but ,taglienti 7#aecj7 gives su la rete1 and ,il specchio di ,pensieri 7#aedh71 purito in rede4 #afi ,plate ,v4 #agj ,first given in the ,honesto ,esempio4 #aeej and passim4 #aga ,mentioned by ,taglienti 7#aecj71 and afterwards in the ,trionfo 7#aeee71 and passim4 #agb ,given in ,il ,monte1 circ4 #aeej1 but described by ,firenzuola earlier4 ,see ,,florence4 #agc ,see ,chap4 ,,iii41 notes #ajd and #ajf4 #agd ,toile de la ,pale4--,a pasteboard about eight inches square1 enclosed in cambric or lace1 used to cover the paten when laid over the cup4 #age ,the whole furniture of a room taken from a palace at ,naples1 comprising curtains1 and vallance of a bed1 window curtains1 toilet1 etc41 of straw-coloured laces1 reticella1 embroidered netting1 etc42 the price asked was #ah1jjj francs #gbj4 ,there was also much of the rose point1 and a handkerchief bordered with beautiful flat ,venetian point of the same colour1 forming part of a trousseau4 #gjj francs #bh4 #agf ,taglienti 7#aecj7 has groppi1 moreschi1 and arabeschi2 and ,il ,specchio 7#aedh71 ponti gropposi4 ,see also the ,sforza ,inventory1 #adic4 #agg ,see ,,genoa4 #agh ,taglienti 7#aecj7 gives a magliata1 ,parasole 7#afjj7 lavori di maglia4 #agi ,punti a stuora occur in ,il ,specchio 7#aedh71 ,i ,frutti 7#aefd71 and in the ,vera ,perfettione 7#aeia7 the word stuora 7modern1 stuoja7 means also a mat of plaited rushes1 which some of these interlaced patterns may be intended to imitate4 #ahj ,burato4 ,see ,,appendix4 #aha ,there are many patterns for this work in ,le ,pompe di ,minerva1 #afdb4 ,taglienti 7#aecj7 has desfilato among his punti4 #ahb ,many other points are enumerated in the pattern-books1 of which we know nothing1 such as gasii 7,i ,frutti1 #aefd71 trezola 7,ibid71 rimessi 7,vera ,perfettione1 #aeia71 opere a mazzette 7,vecellio1 #aeia1 and ,lucretia ,bomana1 ,n4,d474 #ahc ,tracts on ,trade of the ,seventeenth ,century1 published by ,mac,culloch1 at the expense of ,lord ,monteagle4 #ahef4 #ahd ,venice point forms a considerable item in the expenses of ,charles ,,ii4 and his brother ,james4 #ahe ,venice noted for needlework laces1 called points4--,travels ,thro' ,italy and ,france1 by ,j4 ,ray4 #agch4 #ahf ,misson1 ,f4 ,m41 ,nouveau ,voyage d',italie1 #dme dition4 ,la ,haye1 #agjb4 #ahg ,origine delle ,feste ,veneziane1 da ,giustina ,r4 ,michiel4 ,milano1 #ahbi4 #ahh ,an ,itinerary1 containing his ,ten ,yeeres ,travel through ,germany1 ,bohmerland1 ,switzerland1 ,netherland1 ,denmark1 ,poland1 ,italy1 ,turkey1 ,france1 ,england1 ,scotland1 and ,ireland4 ,lond41 #afag4 #ahi #aeia4 #aij ,see1 in ,,appendix1 designs for bavari by ,lucrezia4 #aia ,the entry of the ,venetian ambassador1 ,mocenigo1 is described in the ,mercure ,galant1 #agji3-- ,il avoit un rabat de point de ,venise4444 ,sa robe de damas noir avec des grandes manches qui pendoient par derrire4 ,cette robe etoit garnie de dentelle noir4 #aib ,letters from ,italy4 ,so1 in a play of ,goldoni1 who wrote in the middle of the last century1 the lady has a ,brussels 7,angleterre7 head-dress4 ,don ,flaminio3 ,mi par bellisima cotesto pizzo ,barbara3 ,e un punto d',inghilterra che ha qualche merito4--,gli ,amori di ,zelinda e ,lindoro4 ,in ,goldoni's plays all the ladies make lace on the pillow 7ballon71 so the art of making the needle ,venice point was probably at an end4 #aic ,la plus belle dentelle noire fait l'espce de camail qui1 sous un chapeau noir emplum1 couvre leurs paules et leur tte4--,madame du ,boccage1 #agce4 ,lettres sur l',italie4 ,quella specie de lungo capuocio di finissimo merlo pur nero1 chiamato bauta4--,michiel4 #aid ,l'le de ,burano o l'on fabrique les dentelles4--,quadri1 ,huit ,jours ,venise4 #aie ,technical ,history of ,venetian ,laces1 ,urbani de ,gheltof4 ,translated by ,lady ,layard4 ,venice1 #ahhb4 ,origines de la ,dentelle de ,venise et l'cole de ,burano4 ,venice1 #ahig4 ,traditions of lace-making were kept alive in ,venice1 ,cantu and ,liguria during the first half of the nineteenth century by the manufacture of an inferior quality of blonde1 once extensively made at ,venice1 which has since died out1 owing to the revival in the production of thread-lace and guipures at ,palestrina4 #aif ,velleto 7veil7 uno d'oro filato4 ,payro uno fodrete 7pillow-case7 di cambria lavorate a gugia 7 l'aiguille74 ,lenzuolo 7sheet7 uno di revo di tele 7linen thread71 cinque lavorato a punto4 ,peza una de tarnete 7trina7 d'argento facte a stelle4 ,lenzolo uno de tele1 quatro lavorato a radexelo 7reticello74 ,peze quatro de radexela per mettere ad uno moscheto 7zanzariere1 mosquito curtain74 ,tarneta una d'oro et seda negra facta da ossi 7bones74 ,pecto uno d'oro facto a grupi4 ,lavoro uno de rechamo facto a grupi dove era suso le pere de ,madona ,biancha4 ,binda una lavorata a poncto de doii fuxi 7two bobbins7 per uno lenzolo4--,instrumento di divizione tre le sorelle ,angela ed ,ippolita ,sforza ,visconti1 di ,milano1 #adic1 ,giorno di ,gioved1 #ab ,settembre4 #aig ,la mit de uno fagotto quale aveva dentro certi dissegni da lavorare le donne4 #aih ,harl4 ,,ms4 ,no4 #adai4 #aii ,roll4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #bjj ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #bja ,de la ,mare1 ,trait de la ,police4 #bjb ,statuts1 ,ordonnances et ,reglemens de la ,communaut des ,maistres ,passementiers1 etc41 de ,paris1 confirmez sur les anciens ,statuts du #bc mars #aeeh4 ,paris1 #agai4 #bjc ,grand ,dictionnaire ,universel du ,commerce4 #agbc4 #bjd ,voyage en ,italie4 #agfe4 #bje ,peuchet1 ,j41 ,dictionnaire ,universel de la ,gographie ,commerante4 ,paris1 ,an vii4 #agii4 #bjf ,letters from ,italy1 by a lady4 #aggj4 ,questo collar scolp la donna mia ,de basso rilevar1 ch' ,aracne mai1 ,e chi la vinse nol faria pi bello4 ,mira quel bel fogliame1 ch' un acanto ,sembra1 che sopra un mur vada carponi4 ,mira quei fior1 ch' un candido ne cade ,vicino al seme1 apr' or la bocia l'altro4 ,quei cordiglin1 che'l legan d'ognitorno1 ,come rilevan ben6 mostrando ch' ella ,e' la vera maestra di quest' arte1 ,com ben compartiti son quei punti6 ,ve' come son ugual quei bottoncelli1 ,come s' alzano in guisa d'un bel colle ,l'un come l' altro6444 ,questi merli da man1 questi trafori ,fece pur ella1 et questo punto a spina1 ,che mette in mezzo questo cordoncello1 ,ella il fe pure1 ella lo fece4 --,elegia sopra un ,collaretto1 ,firenzuola 7circ4 #aebj74 #bjh ,rymer's ,foedera 7#ch ,hen4 ,,viii4 #aedf74 #bji #d ,hen4 ,,vii4 #adhh-hi4 #baj ,compte des dpenses de la maison de ,madame ,marguerite de ,france1 ,soeur du ,roi4--,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aj1cid4 #baa ,comptes de la ,reine de ,navarre4--,arch4 ,nat41 ,k4 ,k4 #agj4 #bab ,in #aece4 #bac ,she died in #ahfb4 #bad ,see ,,venice1 #a4 #bae ,inventaire du ,trsor de ,n4 ,d4 de ,lorette4--,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 #baf ,letters from ,italy4 #bag ,the gremial1 or apron1 placed on the lap of the ,roman ,catholic bishops when performing sacred functions in a sitting posture4--,pugin's ,glossary of ,ecclesiastical ,ornament4 #bah ,this reminds one of the lines of ,goldsmith1 in his poem1 ,the ,haunch of ,venison1 the giving of venison to hungry poets who were in want of mutton2 he says3 ,such dainties to send them their health it would hurt2 ,it's like sending them ruffles when wanting a shirt4 #bai ,a true ,relation of the ,travailes1 and most miserable ,captivitie of ,w4 ,davies4 ,lond41 #afad4 #bbj ,an ,italian ,voyage1 or a ,complete ,journey through ,italy1 by ,rich4 ,lassels1 ,gent4 #bnd edit41 ,lond41 #afih4 ,a reprint1 with additions by another hand1 of the original edition4 ,paris1 #afgj4 ,lowndes' ,bibliographer's ,manual4 ,bohn's new edit4 #bba ,portano alcune vesti di tela di lino sottile1 lunghe fino in terra1 con maniche larghe assai1 attorno alle quali sono attaccati alcuni merletti lavorati di refe sottilissimo4--,habiti di donna dell' ,isola d' ,ischia4 ,degli ,habiti ,antichi e ,moderni di ,diverse ,parti del ,mondo di ,cesare ,vecellio4 ,venezia1 #aeij4 #bbb ,we have among the points given by ,taglienti 7#aecj71 pugliese4 ,lace is still made in ,puglia and the other southern provinces of ,naples and in ,sicily4 ,the ,contessa di ,brazza says that ,punto ,pugliese resembled ,russian and ,roumanian embroidery4 #bbc ,brydone1 ,tour through ,sicily4 #aggc4 #bbd ,from the tax-books preserved in the ,archives of ,s4 ,george1 it appears that a tax upon gold thread of four danari upon every lira in value of the worked material was levied1 which between #adaa and #adbj amounted to ,l4 #gc1chg4 ,from which period this industry rapidly declined1 and the workers emigrated4--,merli4 #bbe ,signore ,tessada1 the great lace fabricant of ,genoa1 carries back the manufacture of ,italian lace as early as the year #adjj1 and forwarded to the author specimens which he declares to be of that date4 #bbf ,laqueo serico ,jeano de coloribus1 ad #es4 per doz4 ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4--#af #ag and #ai #bj4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #bbg ,dated #afci4 #bbh ,garderobe de feue ,madame4 #afdf4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1dbf4 #bbi ,le ,vray ,thatre d',honneur et de ,chevalerie4 ,paris1 #afdh4 #bcj ,queen ,christina is described by the ,grande ,mademoiselle1 on the occasion of her visit1 as wearing au cou1 un mouchoir de point de ,gnes1 nou avec un ruban couleur de feu4--,mm4 de ,mademoiselle de ,montpensier4 ,item1 ung peignoir1 tablier et cornette de toile baptiste garnie de point de ,gnes4--#afdd4 ,inv4 de la ,comtesse de ,soissons4 ,un petit manteau brod et son collet de point de ,gnes4--,the ,chevalier d',albret4 ,linge1 bijoux et points de ,gnes4--,loret1 ,muse ,historique4 #afej4 ,item1 ung autre mouchoir de point de ,gnes4--,inv4 du ,marchal de ,la ,motte4 #afeg4 #bca ,mm41 t4 xiv41 p4 #bhf4 #bcb ,signore ,tessada has in his possession a pair of gold lappets of very beautiful design1 made at ,genoa about the year #agjj4 #bcc ,letters from ,italy4 #aggj4 #bcd ,cavasco4 ,statistique de ,gnes4 #ahdj4 #bce ,the bobbins appear to have been made in ,italy of various materials4 ,we have ,merletti a fusi1 in which case they are of wood4 ,the ,sforza inventory gives a doii fuxi1 two bobbins1 then a ossi1 of bone1 and1 lastly1 a piombini2 and it is very certain that lead was used for bobbins in ,italy4 ,see ,,parasole 7#afjj74 #bcf ,memorie ,storiche di ,santa ,margherita4 ,genoese pillow-laces are not made with the rseau1 but joined by bars4 ,of ,milan lace it is said1 ,it resembles ,genoese pillow-lace in having the same scrolls and flowers formed by a ribbon in close stitch1 with a mesh or tulle ground1 whereas the ,genoese lace is held together by bars4--,c4 di ,brazza1 ,old and ,new ,lace in ,italy 7#ahic74 #bcg ,lefbure writes1 ,a version of these ,milanese laces has been produced by using tape for the scroll forms and flowers1 and filling in the open portions between the tapes by needlework stitches4 ,the ,c4 di ,brazza calls similar lace ,punto di ,rapallo or ,liguria1 a lace formed by a ribbon or braid of close lace following the outline of the design with fancy gauze stitches made by knotting with a crochet needle4 ,the special characteristic of this lace is that the braid is constantly thrown over what has gone before4 ,the design is connected by brides4 ,a modification1 where the braid is very fine and narrow1 and the turnings extremely complicated1 and enriched by no fancy stitches between1 is ,punto a ,vermicelli4--,old and ,new ,lace in ,italy4 #bch ,communicated by ,sig4 ,gio4 ,tessada1 ,junr41 of ,genoa4 #bci ,gandolfi1 ,considerazioni ,agrario4 #bdj ,a small borgo1 about an hour's drive from ,savona1 on the road leading to ,genoa4 #bda ,cav4 ,merli4 #bdb ,in the ,albert ,museum of ,exeter are several of these tallies marked with the names of their owners--,bianca1 ,maria ,crocera1 and others4 #bdc ,many skilful lace-makers in ,italy have for some time imitated the old laces and sold them as such to travellers4 ,a ,venetian lace-worker1 now residing at ,ferrara1 can copy any old lace known 7,mrs4 ,palliser1 #ahfd74 #bdd ,this lappet1 #ceg-fh1 in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum collection1 was described by ,mrs4 ,palliser as ,argentella1 and supposed to be of ,genoese workmanship4 ,formerly much of it was to be met with in the curiosity shops of that city1 but now it is of rare occurrence4 ,the ,duchess of ,genoa possesses a splendid flounce of the same lace1 with the ,doria eagle introduced into the pattern4 ,it formerly belonged to the ,marchesa ,barbaretta ,saule 7,mrs4 ,palliser1 ,history of ,lace1 #ahfd74 ,contessa di ,brazza suggests that ,argentella was the ,italian for ,argentan4 #bde ,called by the people of the ,riviera1 filo del baccal di ,castellaro4 ,aloe fibre was formerly used for thread 7,letter of ,sig4 ,c4 ,g4 ,schiappapietra74 ,it is also styled filo di freta in the ,venetian sumptuary ordinances4 #bdf ,the ,author has to express her grateful thanks to ,signore ,don ,tommaso ,torteroli1 librarian to the city of ,savona1 and the author of an interesting pamphlet 7,storia dei ,merletti di ,genova lavorati in ,albissola1 ,sinigaglia1 #ahfc71 for specimens of the ancient laces of ,albissola1 and many other valuable communications4 #bdg ,a word of ,arabic derivation1 used for denoting a fringe for trimming1 whether cotton1 thread1 or silk4 #bdh ,this custom of ornamenting the ends of the threads of linen was from the earliest times common1 and is still occasionally met with both in the north and south of ,europe4 ,at ,bayonne they make the finest of linen1 some of which is made open like network1 and the thread is finer than hair 7,ingenious and ,diverting ,letters of a ,lady's ,travels in ,spain1 ,london1 #afgi74 ,there is a painting of the ,last ,supper at ,hampton ,court ,palace1 by ,sebastian ,ricci1 in which the tablecloth is edged with cut-work2 and in the great picture in the ,louvre1 by ,paul ,veronese1 of the supper at the house of ,simon the ,canaanite1 the ends of the tablecloth are likewise fringed and braided like the macram4 #bdi ,,lace ,,schools ,,in ,,italy4--,at ,coccolia1 near ,ravenna1 ,countess ,pasolini founded a school on her property to teach and employ the peasant women and copy antique designs4 ,another more recently established school near ,udine1 in the province of ,friuli1 is under the direction of the ,contessa di ,brazza4 ,among charitable institutions which interest themselves in the lace industry are the ,industrial ,school of ,,ss4 ,ecce ,homo at ,naples1 and ,san ,ramiri at ,pisa1 which was originally founded by the ,grand ,dukes of ,tuscany in the middle of the eighteenth century to teach weaving4 ,this industry1 and that of straw-plaiting1 met with no success1 and the school gradually developed into an industrial school in the modern sense4 ,there are many schools on the same system in ,florence1 and one 7,san ,pelegrino7 at ,bologna4 ,at ,sassari1 in ,sardinia1 the deaf and dumb children in the great institution of the ,figlie di ,maria are taught to make net lace4 ,torchon and ,brussels pillow lace is worked under the direction of the ,sisters of ,providence in the women's prison at ,perugia4 #bej ,laborde1 ,glossaire4 ,paris1 #ahec4 #bea ,statute #b ,hen4 ,,vi41 c4 x41 #adbc4 #beb ,taglienti 7#aecj7 among his punti gives ,ciprioto 7an embroidery stitch74 #bec ,description de ,raguse 7,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss41 ,f4,fr4 #aj1ggb74 #bed ,points de ,raguse--first mentioned in an ,edict of ,january1 #afed1 by which the king raises for his own profit one quarter of the value of the passems1 dentelles1 points coupez de ,flandres1 pointinars1 points de ,venise1 de ,raguse1 de ,gnes1 etc4 7,recueil des ,lois ,franaises74 ,again1 the ,ordinance of ,august1 #affe1 establishes the points de ,france1 en la manire des points qui se font ,venise1 ,gnes1 ,raguse1 et autres pays trangers1 recited in the ,arrt of ,oct4 #abth1 #afff4--;,de ,lamare1 ,trait de la ,police4 #bee ,see ,,venice4 #bef ,in #affa4 #beg ,see head of chapter4 #beh ,in #affg4 #bei ,see ,,appendix4 #bfj ,a ,descriptive ,catalogue of the ,collections of ,lace in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum1 by the late ,mrs4 ,bury ,palliser4 ,third edition1 revised and enlarged by ,a4 ,s4 ,cole4 #bfa ,edinburgh ,advertiser1 #agfd4 #bfb ,there is no corroboration of ,mrs4 ,palliser's statement above that lace was ever made in ,malta2 if so1 it would have been of the ,genoese geometrical kind1 of which ,lady ,hamilton ,chichester adapted the designs and evolved what is now known as ,maltese lace by the aid of workers imported from ,genoa4 ,the ,maltese cross has been introduced into the designs as a distinguishing mark4 #bfc ,a lace of similar character 7,maltese7 has also been made successfully in the missionary schools at ,madras 7,mrs4 ,palliser74 #bfd ,lefbure1 ,embroidery and ,lace4 #bfe ,in the ,philippine ,islands the natives work ,manilla grass into a sort of drawn thread-work or tatting4 #bff #agef4 ,point d',espagne hats4--,connoisseur4 #bfg ,beckmann1 in his ,history of ,inventions1 says that ,it was a fashion to give the name of ,spanish to all kinds of novelties1 such as ,spanish flies1 ,spanish wax1 ,spanish green1 ,spanish grass1 ,spanish seed1 and others4 #bfh ,a4 ,s4 ,cole4 ,cantor ,lectures on the ,art of ,lace-,making4 #bfi ,livre ,nouveau de ,patrons and ,fleurs des ,patrons give various stitches to be executed en fil d'or1 d'argent1 de soie1 et d'autres4 ,both printed at ,lyons4 ,the first has no date2 the second1 #aedi4 ,le ,pompe1 ,venezia1 #aeei1 has diversi sorti di mostre per poter far1 d'oro1 di sete1 di filo1 etc4 #bgj ,not many years since1 a family at ,cadiz1 of ,jewish extraction1 still enjoyed the monopoly of manufacturing gold and silver lace4--,letter from ,spain1 #ahfc4 ,merletto ,polichrome1 or parti-coloured lace1 was also invented and perfected by the ,jews1 and was made in silk of various colours1 representing fruit and flowers4 ,this industry has been revived in ,venice1 and carried to great perfection4 #bga ,senor ,j4 ,f4 ,riano4 ,the ,industrial ,arts in ,spain4--,lace4 #bgb ,spain has #h1icb convents1 containing #id1jjj nuns and monks4--,townsend1 ,j41 ,journey ,through ,spain in the ,years #aghf and #aghg4 #bgc ,the aloe thread is now used in ,florence for sewing the straw-plait4 #bgd ,barcelona1 #ahib1 page #bbe1 quoted by ,signor ,j4 ,f4 ,riano4 ,date of book #aeib4 #bge ,a4 ,s4 ,cole1 ,ancient ,needle-point and ,pillow-,lace4 #bgf ,this ordinance even extended to foreign courts4 ,we read in the ,mercure ,galant1 #afgi1 of the ,spanish ambassadress1 ,elle etoit vestue de drap noir avec de la dentelle de soye2 elle n'avait ni dentelle ni linge autour de sa gorge4 #bgg ,mercure ,franois4 #bgh ,they have also provided-- #ad ruffs #ad pairs of cuffs laced1 at #bjs4 #ad ,for lacing #h hats for the footmen with silver parchment lace1 at #cs4 #a #ds4 ,extraordinary ,expenses of his ,highness to ,spain1 #afbc4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #bgi ,doctor ,monada1 in #affj1 and ,osorio1 in #afhf1 reckoned more than three millions of ,spaniards who1 though well dressed1 wore no shirts4--,townsend's ,spain4 #bhj ,speaking of the apartment of ,madame d',aranda1 ,beckford writes3 ,her bed was of the richest blue velvet1 trimmed with point lace4 #bha ,our ,english translation of ,don ,quixote has led some authors into adducing a passage as an evidence that the art of making bone lace was already known in ,cervantes' day4 ,sanchica1 writes ,theresa ,pana to her husband1 the newly-appointed ,governor of ,baratava1 makes bone lace1 and gets eight maravedis a day1 which she drops into a tin box to help towards household stuff4 ,but now that she is a governor's daughter1 you will give her a fortune1 and she will not have to work for it4 ,in referring to the original ,spanish we find the words rendered bone lace are puntas de randas1 signifying works of lacis or rseuil--ouvrage de lacis ou rseuil4--,oudin4 ,trsor des ,deux ,langues ,fr4 et ,esp4 7#affj74 #bhb ,as early as the ,great ,wardrobe ,account of ,queen ,elizabeth1 #aehg1 ,p4 ,r4 ,o41 we have a charge for bobbin lace of ,spanish silk1 cum u tag1 for the mantle1 #ajs4 #h;d4 ,in a letter from ,prestwick ,eaton to ,geo4 ,willingham1 #afca1 the writer sends #ajjj reals 7#be71 and in return desires him to send1 together with a mastiff dog1 some black satin lace for a ,spanish suit4--,state ,papers1 ,domestic1 ,car4 ,i41 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #bhc #afig4 ,marriage of ,mademoiselle and the ,king of ,spain4 ,the ,queen1 says the ,mercure1 wore une mante de point d',espagne d'or1 neuf aunes de long4 #afih4 ,fte at ,versailles on the marriage of the ,duc de ,bourgogne4 ,la ,duchesse de ,bourgogne pourtoit un petit tablier de point d',espagne de mille pistoles4--,galrie de l'ancienne ,cour2 ou ,mm4 des ,rgnes de ,louis ,,xiv4 et ,louis ,,xv41 #aghh4 #agbb4 ,ball at the ,tuileries4 ,tous les seigneurs etaient en habits de drap d'or ou d'argent garnis de points d',espagne1 avec des noeuds d'paule1 et tout l'ajustement proportion4 ,les moindres etaient de velours1 avec des points d',espagne d'or et d'argent4--,journal de ,barbier1 #agah-fb4 #agbb4 ,j'ai vu en mme temps le carosse que le roi fait faire pour entrer dans ,reims1 il sera aussi d'une grande magnificence4 ,le dedans est tout garni d'un velours ramage de points d',espagne d'or4--,ibid4 #agca4 ,speaking of her wedding-dress1 ,wilhelmina of ,bayreuth1 the witty sister of ,frederick the ,great1 writes3 ,ma robe toit d'une toffe d'or fort riche1 avec un point d',espagne d'or1 et ma queue toit de douze aunes de long4--,mmoires4 #agea4 ,fte at ,versailles on the birth of the ,duc de ,bourgogne4 ,the coats of the gens de cour1 en toffes d'or de grand prix ou en velours de tout couleurs1 brods d'or1 ou garnis de point d',espagne d'or4--,journal de ,barbier4 #bhd ,fenix de ,catalua1 compendio desus ,antiguas ,grandezas y ,medio para ,renovarlas1 ,barcelona1 #afhc1 p4 #ge4 #bhe ,in the reign of ,william and ,mary1 we find1 in a lace-man's bill of the ,queen1 a charge for forty-seven yards of rich1 broad1 scalloped1 embossed point de ,spain2 and her shoes are trimmed with gold and silver lace4--,b4 ,m41 ,add4 ,,mss42 ,no4 #egea4 ,at the entry of ,lord ,stair into ,paris1 #agai1 his servants' hats are described as laced with ,spanish point1 their sleeves laced with picked silver lace1 and dented at the edge with lace4--,edinburgh ,courant4 ,in #agdj1 the ,countess of ,pomfret1 speaking of the ,princess ,mary's wedding clothes1 writes3 ,that for the wedding night is silver tissue1 faced at the bottom before with pink-coloured satin1 trimmed with silver point d',espagne4--,letters of the ,countess of ,hartford to the ,countess of ,pomfret1 #agdj4 #bhf ,marquis de la ,gombardire1 #afcd1 ,nouveau ,rglement ,gnral des ,finances1 etc4 #bhg ,eighty children and grandchildren attended his funeral in defiance of the ,edict of #aith ,sept41 #affd1 and were heavily fined4--,la ,france ,protestante1 par ,m4 ,m4 ,haag4 ,paris1 #ahdf-ei4 #bhh ,garderobe de ,s4 ,a4 ,s4 ,mgr4 le ,duc de ,penthivre4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #cij-a4 #bhi ,lord ,verulam on the treaty of commerce with the ,emperor ,maximilian4 #bij ,gentleman's ,magazine1 #agde4 #bia ,peyron1 #aghi4 #bib ,madrid1 #agge4 #bic ,itinraire de l',espagne1 ,comte ,alph4 de ,laborde1 t4 v4 #bid ,peuchet 7,dictionnaire ,universel de la ,gographie ,commerante1 ,an4 vii4 #agii71 speaking of ,barcelona1 says their laces are faon de ,france1 but inferior in beauty and quality4 ,the fabrication is considerable1 employing #b1jjj women in the towns and villages east of ,barcelona4 ,they are sold in ,castile1 ,andalusia1 and principally in the ,indies4 #bie ,madrid1 #aghh4 ,vol4 ii1 p4 #adi4 #bif ,ibid4 ,vol4 xvii41 p4 #bid4 #big ,the manufacture of silk lace or blonde in ,almagro occupies from #ab1jjj to #ac1jjj people 7,mrs4 ,palliser1 #ahfi74 ,modern torchon laces are still made at ,almagro to a very large extent 7#aija74 #bih ,madrid1 #aghh4 #bii ,madrid1 #agig4 #cjj ,senor ,juan ,f4 ,riano1 ,the ,industrial ,arts in ,spain1 ,lace 7,london1 #ahgi74 #cja ,theory of ,commerce1 from the ,spanish of ,don4 ,ger4 de ,ustariz 7,lond41 #agea74 #cjb ,when the holidays of the ,roman ,catholic church are deducted1 the work-days of the people amount only to #bfj in the course of the year--fifty less than in a ,protestant country4 #cjc ,ford1 ,handbook of ,spain4 #cjd #ahfi4 #cje ,now there are only two kinds of lace made in ,spain2 'encaje de blonda1' mantillas1 scarves1 lace-ties1 etc41 in white and black2 these are manufactured in ,barcelona1 on long pillows stuffed with long straw quite hard1 covered with yellow or light blue linen4 ,the lace is worked on a cardboard pattern1 and with 'fuseaux' like the ,french torchon lace1 the only difference being that the pillow is long and narrow and without the revolving cylinder in the centre1 so that when making a long piece1 or lace by the yard1 the pins have to be taken out when you get to the bottom of the pillow1 and the work removed to the top and continued4 ,the mantillas1 etc41 are worked by pieces2 that is to say1 the border1 flowers1 and large designs1 and are afterwards joined by the veil stitch4 ,the second is 'encaje de ,almagro'--little children of six and seven years old are taught to make it4--,letter from ,spain1 #aija4 #cjf ,on met de la dentelle brode de couleur de points d',espagne aux jupes--,mercure ,galant4 #cjg ,recherches sur le ,commerce1 la ,fabrication et l',usage des ,etoffes de ,soie1 etc41 pendant le ,moyen ,age4 ,paris1 #ahci4 #cjh ,taglienti1 ,venice1 #aecj4 #cji ,paris1 #aedf4 #caj ,pelegrin de ,florence1 ,paris1 #aecj4 #caa ,magazin de ,londres1 #agdi4 #cab ,mademoiselle ,dumont1 foundress of the point de ,france fabric1 in the ,rue ,st4 ,denis1 quitted ,paris after some years and retired to ,portugal3 whether she there introduced her art is more than the author can affirm4 #cac ,it was probably a variety of point de ,venise4 ,a few years ago a specimen of point plat was exhibited in ,london with a ,portuguese inscription and designs of figures in costumes of circ4 #afjj4 ,see ,plate ,,ix4 #cad ,the bobbins from ,peniche1 one of the few places in ,portugal where pillow-lace is still made1 are remarkably pretty4 ,they are of ivory1 agreeably mellowed by time and constant handling1 and their slender tapering shafts and bulbous ends are decorated simply but tastefully with soft-tinted staining4 ,in size they are small1 measuring from three and a quarter to three and a half inches long1 and these proportions are extremely good4 ,another variety of ,peniche bobbin is made of dark brown1 boldly-grained wood4 ,the lace-makers work on a long cylindrical cushion--the almofada--fastened to a high1 basket-work stand1 light enough to be easily moved from place to place4--,r4 ,e4 ,head1 ,some ,notes on ,lace-,bobbins1 ,the ,reliquary1 ,july1 #aijj4 #cae ,the ,queen1 ,august1 #ahgb4 ,the places in ,portugal where the lace industry is chiefly exercised are ,peniche1 ,vianna do ,castello1 ,setubal1 a village in ,algarve called ,faro1 and at the present time ,lisbon1 where1 under the help and patronage of ,h4 ,m4 the ,queen1 a lace dpot has been instituted1 in which ,i have worked for ten years1 seeking to raise the ,portuguese lace industry to an art4 ,the designs being entirely my own original ones1 ,i am trying to give them a character in unison with the general idea of the architecture throughout the country4 ,i obtained gold medals for my work at the ,exhibitions of #ahid at ,antwerp and #aijj at ,paris1 besides others at ,lisbon4--,letter from ,dona ,maria ,bordallo ,pinheiro1 head of the ,lace ,industry ,department at ,lisbon1 #aija4 #caf ,there are now seven families employed in the fabrication of ,maltese lace1 which is made almost entirely by men2 the women occupy themselves in the open-work embroidery of muslin 7#ahfi74 #cag ,those in the collegiate church of ,st4 ,peter's1 at ,louvain1 and in the church of ,st4 ,gomar1 at ,lierre 7,antwerp ,prov474--,aubry4 #cah ,baron ,reiffenberg1 in ,mmoires de l',acadmie de ,bruxelles4 #ahbj4 #cai ,engraved by ,collaert4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 #cbj ,louvain dans le pass et dans le prsent1 formation de la ville1 vnements memorables1 territoire1 topographie1 institutions1 monuments1 oeuvres d'art1 page #ccj1 by ,edward van ,even1 published #ahie4 #cba ,m4 de ,barante4 #cbb ,it goes on3 ,for the maiden1 seated at her work1 plies her fingers rapidly1 and flashes the smooth balls and thousand threads into the circle4 ,often she fastens with her hand the innumerable needles1 to bring out the various figures of the pattern2 often1 again1 she unfastens them2 and in this her amusement makes as much profit as the man earns by the sweat of his brow2 and no maiden ever complains at even of the length of the day4 ,the issue is a fine web1 open to the air with many an aperture1 which feeds the pride of the whole globe2 which encircles with its fine border cloaks and tuckers1 and shows grandly round the throats and hands of kings2 and1 what is more surprising1 this web is of the lightness of a feather1 which in its price is too heavy for our purses4 ,go1 ye men1 inflamed with the desire of the ,golden ,fleece1 endure so many dangers by land1 so many at sea1 whilst the woman1 remaining in her ,brabantine home1 prepares ,phrygian fleeces by peaceful assiduity4--,jacobi ,eyckii ,antwerpiensis ,urbium ,belgicarum ,centuria4 ,antw4 #afea4 #a vol41 #dto4 ,bib4 ,royale1 ,brussels4 #cbc ,alenon excepted4 #cbd ,it is said to destroy the eyesight4 ,i was told by a gentleman well acquainted with ,flanders1 says ,mc,pherson1 that they were generally almost blind before thirty years of age4--,history of ,commerce1 #aghe4 #cbe ,together with the cap is preserved a parchment with this inscription3 ,gorro que perteneccio ,carlos ,quinto1 emperad4 ,guarda lo1 hijo mio1 es memoria de ,juhan de ,garnica4 7,cap which belonged to the ,emperor ,charles ,v4 ,keep it1 my son1 in remembrance of ,john de ,garnica74 ,j4 de ,garnica was treasurer to ,philip ,,ii4 ,sguin1 however1 is of opinion that this cap belonged to one of ,charles ,v4's successors3-- ,ce bonnet 444 a d appartenir trs certainement un de ses successeurs 7of ,charles ,v471 cause que ce bonnet se trouve coup et encadr par un petit entre-deux de guipure au fuseau1 faon point de ,gnes1 qui ne pouvait pas avoir t fait du temps de ,charles ,quint4--,sguin1 ,la ,dentelle4 #cbf ,married1 #aeii1 ,albert1 ,archduke of ,austria4 #cbg ,by ,andrew ,yarranton1 ,gent4 ,london1 #afgg4 ,a proposal to erect schools for teaching and improving the linen manufacture as they do in ,flanders and ,holland1 where little girls from six years old upwards learn to employ their fingers4 ,hadrianus ,junius1 a most learned writer1 in his description of the ,netherlands1 highly extols the fine needlework and linen called cambric of the ,belgian nuns1 which in whiteness rivals the snow1 in texture satin1 and in price the sea-silk--,byssus1 or beard of the ,pinna4 #cbh ,an old term1 still used in ,scotland1 for gossip1 chatter4 #cbi ,these dogs were of large size1 and able to carry from #bb to #bf lbs4 ,they also conveyed tobacco4 ,the ,swiss dogs smuggle watches4 #ccj ,black lace was also imported at this period from the ,low ,countries4 ,among the articles advertised as lost1 in the ,newsman of ,may #bfth1 #affd1 is1 ,a black lute-string gown with a black ,flanders lace4 #cca ,mercure ,galant4 #afgh4 #ccb ,le corsage et les manches taient bords d'une blanche et lgre dentelle1 sortie coup sr des meilleures manufactures d',angleterre4 #ccc ,we have1 however1 one entry in the ,wardrobe ,accounts of the ,duc de ,penthivre3 #agch4 ,onze aunes d',angleterre de ,flandre4 #ccd ,mercure ,galant4 #afgh4 #cce ,deux paires de manchettes et une cravatte de point d',angleterre4--,inventaire d',anne d',escoubleau1 ,baronne de ,sourdis1 veuve de ,franois de ,simiane4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,m4 ,m4 #hjb4 #ccf ,inv4 aprs le decs de ,mgr4 ,mich4 ,philippine de la ,vrillire1 ,patriarche1 ,archevque de ,bourges1 #afid4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1dbf4 ,une toilette et sa touaille avec un peignoir de point d',angleterre4--,inv4 de decs de ,mademoiselle de ,charollais4 #ageh4 ,arch4 ,nat4 #ccg ,mrs4 ,calderwood's ,journey through ,holland and ,belgium1 #agef4 ,printed by the ,maitland ,club4 #cch ,flax is also cultivated solely for lace and cambric thread at ,st4 ,nicholas1 ,tournay1 and ,courtrai4 ,the process of steeping 7rouissage7 principally takes place at ,courtrai1 the clearness of the waters of the ,lys rendering them peculiarly fitted for the purpose4 ,savary states that fine thread was first spun at ,mechlin4 #cci ,it is often sold at #bdj per lb41 and in the ,report of the ,french ,exhibition of #ahei it is mentioned as high as #ejj 7#be1jjj;fr4 the kilogramme74 ,no wonder that so much thread is made by machinery1 and that ,scotch cotton thread is so generally used1 except for the choicest laces4 ,but machine-made thread has never attained the fineness of that made by hand4 ,of those in the ,exhibition of #ahfb1 the finest ,lille was #hjj leas 7a technical term for a reel of #cjj yards71 the ,brussels #fjj1 the ,manchester #gjj2 whereas in ,westphalia and ,belgium hand-spun threads as fine as #hjj to #ajjj are spun for costly laces4 ,the writer has seen specimens1 in the ,museum at ,lille1 equal to #abjj of machinery2 but this industry is so poorly remunerated1 that the number of skilful hand-spinners is fast diminishing4 #cdj ,dictionnaire du ,citoyen4 #agfa4 #cda ,comptes de ,madame du ,barry4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #haeg and #h4 #cdb ,trois aubes de batiste garnies de grande dentelle de gros point d',angleterre4--,inv4 des ,meubles1 etc41 de ,louis1 ,duc d',orlans1 deced #d fev4 #ageb4 7,son of the ,regent47 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,x4 #aj1jge4 ,deux aubes de point d',angleterre servant ,messieurs les curez4 ,une autre aube dentelle de gros point servant aussy ,m4 le cur4--,inventaire et ,description de l',argenterie1 ,vermeil ,dor1 ,ornemens1 ,linge1 etc41 appartenant l',oeuvre et ,fabrique de l'glise ,saint-,merry ,paris4 #agad4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,l4,l4 #hei4 #cdc ,une coffure une pice d',angleterre bride et rseau4--,comptes de ,madame du ,barry4 #a aune et quart d',angleterre ml4--,ibid4 #cdd ,mrs4 ,delany writes 7,corr41 vol4 #b73 ,the laces ,i have pitched on for you are charming2 it is grounded ,brussels4 ,deux tours de gorge raiseau1 un tour de camisolle bride4--#agbj4 ,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,bourbon4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,x4 #aj1jfb-d4 ,six peignoirs de toille fine garnis par en haut d'une vielle dentelle d',angleterre raiseau4--,inv4 de decs de ,monsieur ,philippe petit fils de ,france1 ,duc d',orlans1 ,regent du ,royaume1 deced #b dcembre1 #agbc4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,x4 #aj1jfg4 ,the fond caill often occurs4 ,une coffure une pice de point l'caille2 ,une paire de manchettes de cour de point raizeau1 et deux devants de corps de point brides cailles4--#agfa4 ,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,modne4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,x4 #aj1jhb4 ,deux barbes1 rayon1 et fond d',angleterre superfin fond caill4--,comptes de ,madame du ,barry4 ,see her ,angleterre1 ,chap4 ,,xi4 note #bf4 #cde ,to which machinery has added a third1 the tulle or ,brussels net4 #cdf ,the needleground is three times as expensive as the pillow1 because the needle is passed four times into each mesh1 whereas in the pillow it is not passed at all4 #cdg ,trois oreillers1 l'un de toille blanche picque garnis autour de chacun d'un point plat4--,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,modne4 #cdh ,tableau de ,paris1 par ,s4 ,mercier4 ,amsterdam1 #aghb4 #cdi ,fashion4 ,j4 ,warton4 #cej ,brussels lace-makers divide the plat into three parts1 the mat1 the close part answering to the ,french toil 7,chapter ,,iii472 gaze au fuseau1 in which small interstices appear1 ,french grill1 and the jours1 or open work4 #cea ,the veil presented by the city of ,brussels to the ,empress ,josephine was sold in #ahaf by ,eugene ,beauharnais to ,lady ,jane ,hamilton4 ,it is described to have been of such ample dimensions that1 when placed on ,lady ,jane's head--who was upwards of six feet high--it trained on the ground4 ,the texture of the rseau was exquisitely fine4 ,in each corner was the imperial crown and cypher1 encircled with wreaths of flowers4 ,this chef d'oeuvre passed into the possession of ,lady ,jane's daughter1 the ,duchesse de ,coigny4 #ceb ,to afford an idea of the intrinsic value of ,brussels lace1 we give an estimate of the expense of a fine flounce 7volant71 of vrai rseau mlang 7point and plat71 #ab metres long by #ce centimetres wide 7#ac yards by #ad inches7-- ,fr4 ,cost of the plat #a1hhe4ge ,needle-point #e1jjj ,open-work1 jours 7fonnage7 #cij ,appliqu 7stricage7 #hjj ,ground 7rseau7 #b1ghb ,footing 7engrlure7 #a4bg --------- ,total #aj1hei4jb --------- #dcd #g #f ,equals #cf #cs4 #i;d4 the metre1 and the selling price would be about #ej #afs41 which would make the flounces amount to #fji #abs4 #cec ,une paire de manchettes de dentelle de ,malines brode4 ,quatre bonnets de nuit garnis de ,malines brode4--,inv4 de decs de ,mademoiselle de ,charollais4 #ageh4 #ced ,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,bourbon4 #agbj4 #agjd4 ,deux fichus garnis de dentelle de ,malines bride ou rzeau4 ,une cravatte avec les manchettes de point de ,malines bride4 ,deux autres cravattes de dentelle de ,malines rzeau et trois paires de manchettes de pareille dentelle4--,inv4 de ,fran4 ,phelypeaux ,loisel4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1dei4 #cee ,inv4 de decs de ,madame ,anne1 ,palatine de ,bavire1 ,princesse de ,cond4 #agbc4 ,arch4 de ,nat4 ,x4 #aj1jfe4 #cef ,in the accounts of ,madame du ,barry1 we have ,malines btarde bordure4 #ceg ,inv4 aprs le decs de ,mgr4 le ,marchal de la ,motte4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1dbf4 ,quatre paires de manchettes garnyes de passement tant de ,venise1 ,gennes1 et de ,malines4 #ceh ,voyage en ,flandre4 #afha4 #cei ,b4 ,m4 ,add4 ,,mss4 ,no4 #egea4 #cfj ,gr4 ,ward4 ,acc4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #cfa ,ibid4 #cfb ,on chamarre les jupes en quiles de dentelles plisses4--,mercure ,galant4 #afgh4 ,un volant dentelle d',angleterre plisse4--,extraordinaire du ,mercure4 ,quartier d',est4 #afgh4 #cfc #agda4 ,une coiffure de nuit de ,malines raizeau campane de deux pices4 ,une paire de manches de ,malines brode a raizeau campane1 un tour de gorge1 et une garniture de corset4--,inv4 de ,mademoiselle de ,clermont4 #agfa4 ,une paire de manches de ,malines brids non campane1 tour de gorge1 et garniture de corset4--,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,modne4 #cfd #agbj4 ,une garniture de teste trois pices de dentelle de ,malines bride4 ,deux peignoirs de toile d',hollande garnis de dentelle1 l'une d',angleterre bride et l'autre de ,maline raiseau4--,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,bourbon4 #agej4 ,une dormeuse de ,malines4--,inv4 de ,mademoiselle de ,charollais4 #aggj4 #e grande hauteur de ,malines pour une paire de manchettes1 #bfd francs4 #a au4 jabot pour le tour de gorge1 #af4 #e au4 ,malines pour garnir #c chemises au ngre #ab fr4 7,the wretch ,zamor who denounced her47--,comptes de ,madame du ,barry4 #aghh4 #f tayes d'oreiller garnies de ,malines4--,etat de ce qui a t fourni pour le renouvellement de ,mgr4 le ,dauphin4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 #eje1 ,no4 #bj4 #agib4 #b tayes d'oreillier garnis de maline4--,notes du linge du i-devant ,roi4 ,ibid4 ,no4 #h4 #agib4 #bd fichus de batiste garnis de ,maline4 #b taye d'orilier garnis de ,maline4--,renouvellement de ,m4 le ,duc4 de ,normandie4 ,ibid4 #cfe ,an ,arrt1 dated #ad ,aug41 #afhh1 requires that toutes les dentelles de fil d',anvers1 ,bruxelles1 ,malines et autres lieux de la ,flandre ,espagnolle1 shall enter only by ,rousselars and ,cond1 and pay a duty of #dj livres per lb4--,arch4 ,nat4 ,coll4 ,rondonneau4 #cff ,in the list of foreign ,protestants resident in ,england1 #afah to #afhh1 we find in ,london1 ,aldersgate ,ward1 ,jacob ,johnson1 born at ,antwerp1 lace-maker1 and ,antony du ,veal1 lace-weaver1 born in ,turny 7,tournay74 #cfg ,this portrait has been engraved by ,verbruggen1 who gives it as that of ,catherine of ,aragon4 #cfh ,mercure ,galant1 #afif4 #cfi ,the flower-pot was a symbol of the ,annunciation4 ,in the early representations of the appearance of the ,angel ,gabriel to the ,virgin ,mary1 lilies are placed either in his hand1 or set as an accessory in a vase4 ,as ,romanism declined1 the angel disappeared1 and the lily pot became a vase of flowers2 subsequently the ,virgin was omitted1 and there remained only the vase of flowers4 #cgj ,see ,,appendix4 #cga ,tableau ,statistique du ,dp4 des ,deux-,nthes1 par le ,citoyen ,herbouville4 ,an ,x4 #ahjb4 #cgb ,their names are given3 ,veuves ,mesele1 ,papegay1 and ,turck4 #cgc ,ypres ,valenciennes was exhibited at #hj 7the metre74 ,the lace-maker1 working twelve hours a day1 could scarcely produce one-third of an inch a week4 ,it would take her twelve years to complete a length of six or seven metres1 her daily earnings averaging two to three francs4 ,ypres makes the widest ,valenciennes of any manufacture except ,courtrai1 whence was exhibited a half shawl 7pointe7 of ,valenciennes4 #cgd ,m4 ,duhayon ,brunfaut1 of ,ypres4 #cge ,treille is the general term for the ground 7rseau7 throughout ,belgium and the ,dp4 du ,nord4 #cgf ,france alone buys of ,belgium more ,valenciennes than all the other countries united2 upwards of #ab millions of francs 7#dhj1jjj74--;,aubry4 #cgg ,at ,ghent two turns and a half1 and at ,courtrai three and a half4 ,each town has its own peculiar stitch4 #cgh ,l',industrie ,dentellire ,belge1 par ,b4 v4 d4 ,dussen1 ,bruxelles1 #ahfj4 #cgi ,robinson ,crusoe1 when at ,lisbon1 sends some ,flanders lace of a good value as a present to the wife and daughter of his partner in the ,brazils4 #chj ,answer to ,sir ,john ,sinclair1 by ,mr4 ,h4 ,schoulthem1 concerning the manufactures of ,ghent4 #ahae4 #cha ,arch4 de ,nat41 ,coll4 ,rondonneau4 #chb ,point and ,pillow ,lace1 ,a4 ,m4 ,s4 ,london1 #ahii4 #chc ,une paire de manchettes de cour de dentelle de ,binche2 ,trois paires de manchettes trois rangs de dentelle de ,binche2 ,deux fichus de mousseline bordes de dentelle de ,binche2 ,deux devants de corps de dentelle de ,binche4--,arch4 de ,nat4 ,x41 #aj1jhb4 #chd ,m4 ,victor ,hugo told the ,author he had1 in his younger days1 seen ,binch guipure of great beauty4--,mrs4 ,palliser1 #ahfi4 #che ,letter of ,sir ,henry ,wotton to ,lord ,zouch4--,state ,papers1 ,domestic1 ,jas4 ,i41 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #chf ,in the ,bulletin de l',institut ,archologique1 ,ligois ,,xviii41 #ahhe1 is a copy of a contract dated ,january #bcrd1 #afcd1 whereby a lace-maker of ,lige1 ,barbe ,bonneville1 undertakes for #be florins1 current money1 to teach a young girl lace-making4 ,again1 in the copy of a ,namur ,act of ,november1 #agja1 a merchant of ,namur orders from a ,ligois #c pieces of needle-made lace called ,venice point1 to sell at the rate of #e florins1 #d florins1 and one cu respectively4 #chg ,arch4 de ,nat41 ,coll4 ,rondonneau4 #chh ,caeteresses1 from caets1 bobbins4 #chi ,exposition de ,lige1 par ,chanoine ,dubois1 #ahha4 #cij ,statistique du dp4 de la ,meuse-,inf41 par le ,citoyen ,cavenne4 ,an4 ,x4 #cia ,lige in the seventeenth century numbered #afjj workers1 and produced black and white laces which it exported to ,england1 ,germany and ,france4 ,the rich clergy of the country also bought a large quantity4 ,at the time of the ,exhibition held there in #ahha the fabric had so declined that it was impossible to find a single piece of lace that had been made in the town4 #cib ,fil tir1 drawn and embroidered muslin-work so fine as to be classed with lace1 was made in ,dinant in the religious communities of the city and the pays of ,dinant before the ,french ,revolution4 ,at ,marche lace with flowers worked directly on the rseau is made1 and the lace of ,yorck is also imitated--a lace characterised by additions worked on to the lace1 giving relief to the flowers4--,exposition de ,lige1 par ,chanoine ,dubois1 #ahha4 ,the list of ,belgian laces also includes ,les points de ,brabant1 plus mats1 et plus remplis que les points de ,flandres2 les differentes dentelles de fantaisie1 non classes1 puis les grosses dentelles de ,couvin1 en soie noire1 qui servaient jadis garnir les pelisses des femmes de l',entre ,sambre-et-,meuse4--,la ,dentelle de ,belgique1 par ,mme4 ,daimeries1 #ahic4 #cic ,italian fashions appeared early in ,france4 ,isabeau de ,bavire1 wearer of the oriental hennin1 and ,valentine de ,milan1 first introduced the rich tissues of ,italy4 ,louis ,,xi4 sent for workmen from ,milan1 ,venice1 and ,pistoja1 to whom he granted various privileges1 which ,charles ,,viii4 confirmed4 ,lace1 according to ,sguin1 first appears in a portrait of ,henri ,,ii4 at ,versailles1 a portrait painted in the latter years of his reign4 ,les deux portraits de ,francois ,ier qui sont au ,louvre n'en laissent pas souponner l'usage de son temps4 ,aucun des autres portraits historiques qui y sont1 non plus que ceux des galeries de ,versailles de la mme poque1 n'en attestent l'existence1 et le premier o on la dcouvre est un portrait de ,henri ,,ii ,versailles1 qui a d tre peint vers les dernires annes de son rgne4 ,le col1 brod d'entrelacs de couleur1 est bord d'une petite dentelle bien simple et bien modeste4 ,nous possdons des portraits authentiques antrieurs au milieu du ,,xvie sicle1 des specimens incontests des costumes qui ont prcd cette poque1 aucun de ces nombreux tmoins n'atteste son existence4 ,il faut reconnatre que l'origine de la dentelle n'est pas antrieure au milieu du ,,xvie sicle4--,sguin1 ,la ,dentelle4 ,paris1 #ahge4 #cid ,in ,ulpian ,fulwell's ,interlude1 #aefh1 ,nichol ,newfangle says-- ,i learn to make gowns with long sleeves and wings1 ,i learn to make ruffs like calves' chitterlings4 #cie ,the ,queen was accused by her enemies of having1 by the aid of ,matre ,ren1 empoisonneur en titre1 terminated the life of ,queen ,jeanne de ,navarre1 in #aega1 by a perfumed ruff 7not gloves--,description de la ,vie de ,catherine de ,mdicis72 and her favourite son1 the ,duke d',alenon1 was said1 cir4 #aege1 to have tried to suborn a valet to take away the life of his brother ,henry by scratching him in the back of his neck with a poisoned pin when fastening his fraise4 #cif ,satyre ,menippe4 ,paris1 #aeic4 #cig ,chronologie ,novenaire1 ,vict4 ,p4 ,cayet4 #cih ,s'ils se tournoient1 chacun se reculoit1 crainte de gater leurs fraizes4--,satyre ,menippe4 ,le col ne se tourne leur aise ,dans le long reply de leur fraise4 --,vertus et ,proprits des ,mignons1 #aegf4 #cii ,ces beaux mignons portoient 444 leur fraizes de chemise de toute d'atour empesez et longues d'un demi-pied1 de faon qu' voir leurs testes dessus leurs fraizes1 il sembloit que ce fut le chef de ,saint ,jean dans un plat4--,journal de ,henri ,,iii41 ,pierre de l',estoille4 #djj ,perroniana4 ,cologne1 #afia4 #dja ,goudronnes en tuyaux d'orgue1 fraises en choux crpus1 et grandes comme des meules de moulin4--,blaise de ,viginire4 ,la fraize veaudelise six tages4--,la ,mode qui ,court4 ,paris1 n4d4 #djb ,appelez par les ,espagnols 'lechuguillas' ou petites laitues1 cause du rapport de ces gaudrons replies avec les fraisures de la laitue4--,histoire de la ,ville de ,paris1 ,d4 ,mich4 ,flibien4 #djc #aege4 ,le roy alloit tous les jours faire ses aumnes et ses prires en grande devotion1 laissant ses chemises grands goderons1 dont il estoit auparavant si curieux1 pour en prendre collet renvers a l',italienne4--,journal de ,henri ,,iii41 ,pierre de l',estoille4 #djd ,no less than ten were sent forth by the ,valois kings1 from #aedi to #aehc4 #dje ,these were dated #aeid1 #afjj1 #afja1 and #afjf4 #djf ,copper used instead of gold thread for embroidery or lace4 ,the term was equally applied to false silver thread4 #aehb4 ,dix escus pour dix aulnes de gaze blanche raye d'argent clinquant pour faire ung voille la ,boullonnoise4--,comptes de la ,reine de ,navarre4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #agj4 #djg ,regnier1 ,math41 ,ses ,satyres4 #afdb4 #djh ,the observation was not new4 ,a ,remonstrance to ,catherine de ,mdicis1 #aehf1 complains that leurs moulins1 leurs terres1 leurs prez1 leurs bois et leurs revenuz1 se coulent en broderies1 pourfilures1 passemens1 franges1 tortis1 canetilles1 recameurs1 chenettes1 picqueurs1 arrirepoins1 etc41 qu'on invente de jour autre4--,discours sur l'extrme chert1 etc41 present la ,mre du ,roi1 par un sien fidelle ,serviteur 7,du ,haillan74 ,bordeaux1 #aehf4 #dji #aegi4 ,pour avoir remonst trois fraises poinct coupp1 #ae sols4 ,pour avoir mont cinq fraizes poinct coupp sur linomple1 les avoir ourlls et couzeus la petite cordellire et au poinct nou raison de #cj sols pour chacune4 ,pour la faon de sept rabatz ourlls double arrirepoinct et couzu le passement au dessus4 #aehj4 ,pour avoir faict d'ung mouchoir ouvr deux rabatz1 #bj sols4 ,pour deux pieces de poinct coupp pour servir ladicte dame1 ,,vi livres4 ,pour dix huict aulnes de passement blanc pour mestre des fraizes trois escus l'aulne4 #aehb4 ,the account for this year contains entries for passement faict lesguille1 grand passement1 passement faict au mestier1 etc4--,comptes de la ,reine de ,navarre4 ,arch4 ,nat4 #daj ,vingt trois chemizes de toile fine ouvrage de fil d'or et soye de plusieurs coulleurs1 aux manchettes coulet et coutures4 ,ung chemize ouvrage de soye noire4 ,quatre chemizes les trois ouvrage d'or et d'argent et soye bleu4--,inv4 des meubles qui ont ests ports ,paris4 #afjb4 ,arch4 ,nat4 #daa #aegg4 ,a ,jehan ,dupr1 linger1 demeurant ,paris1 la somme de soixante douze livres tournois luy or donne pour son payement de quatre layz d'ouvraige poinct coupp pour faire une garniture de chemise pour servir mon dict segneur1 raison de #ah liv4 chacune4--,comptes de la ,reine de ,navarre4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #afb1 fol4 #fee4 #dab ,this shirt1 he adds1 is well attested4 ,it became the perquisite of the king's first valet de chambre4 ,at the extinction of his descendants1 it was exposed to sale4--,memoirs4 ,a rival shirt turned up 7c4 #ahfj7 at ,madame ,tussaud's with the real blood still visible4 ,monsieur ,curtius1 uncle of ,madame ,tussaud1 purchased it at an auction of effects once the property of ,cardinal ,mazarin4 ,charles ,x4 offered #bjj guineas for it4 #dac ,item1 cinq mouchoirs d'ouvrages d'or1 d'argent et soye1 prisez ensemble cent escuz4 ,item1 deux tauayelles aussi ouvrage d'or1 d'argent et soye1 prises cent escuz4 ,item1 trois tauayelles blanches de rezeuil1 prises ensemble trente escuz4 ,item1 une paire de manches de point coup et enrichies d'argent1 prisez vingt escuz4 ,item1 deux mouchoirs blancz de point coup1 prisez ensemble vingt escuz4 ,toutes lesquelles tauayelles et mouchoirs cy dessus trouvez dans un coffre de bahu que la dicte defunte dame faisoit ordinairement porter avec elle a la court sont demeurez entre les mains du ,sr de ,beringhen1 suivant le commandement qu'il en avoit de sa majest pour les representer icelle1 ce qu'il a promis de faire4--,inventaire apres le decs de ,gabrielle d',estres4 #aeii4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #aeg1 fol4 #ag4 #dad ,item1 un lit d'yvoire filletz noirs de ,padoue1 garny de son estuy de cuir rouge4--,ibid4 #dae ,item1 une autre tenture de cabinet de carr de rezeau brodure et montans recouvert de feuillages de fil avec des carrez de thoile plaine1 pris et estim la somme de cent escus ,soleil4 ,item1 dix sept carrez de thoile de ,hollande en broderie d'or et d'argent fait a deux endroictz1 prisez et estimez #he escus4 ,item1 un autre pavilion tout de rezeil avec le chapiteau de fleurs et feuillages4444 ,item1 un autre en neuf fait par carrez de point coup4--,ibid4 fols4 #df and #dg4 #daf ,manchettes et collets enrichys de point coupp4--,inventaire apres le decs de ,messire ,philippe ,herault1 ,comte de ,cheverny1 ,chancelier de ,france4 #aeii4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 #aa1dbd4 #dag ,in #aeih4 ,vulson de la ,colombire1 ,vray ,thatre d',honneur et de ,chevalerie4 #afdg4 #dah ,satyrique de la ,court4 #afac4 #dai ,histoire de la ,mre et du ,fils1 from #afaf to #ai4 ,amsterdam1 #agbi4 #dbj ,livre nouveau dict ,patrons de ,lingerie1 etc4 ,patrons de diverses ,manires1 etc4 7,title in rhyme47 ,s'ensuyvent les ,patrons de ,mesire ,antoine ,belin4 ,ce ,livre est plaisant et utile4 7,title in rhyme47 #dba ,la ,fleur des ,patrons de ,lingerie4 #dbb ,tresor des ,patrons4 ,j4 ,ostans4 #dbc ,le ,livre de ,moresques 7#aedf71 ,livre de ,lingerie1 ,dom4 de ,sera 7#aehd71 and ,patrons pour ,brodeurs 7no date71 were also printed at ,paris4 ,the last book on this kind of work printed at ,paris is styled1 ,mthode pour faire des ,desseins avec des ,carreaux1 etc41 by ,pre ,dominique ,donat1 religieux carme4 #agbb4 #dbd ,a point de ,venise alb1 of rose point1 said to be of this period1 is in the ,muse de ,cluny4 #dbe ,quelques autres de frangez ,bordent leur riche cuir1 qui vient des lieux estranges4--,le ,gan1 de ,jean ,godard1 ,parisien4 #aehh4 #dbf #afai4 ,deux paires de rozes soulliers garnies de dentelle d'or4--,inv4 de ,madame ,soeur du ,roi4 7,henrietta ,maria47 ,arch4 ,nat4 #dbg ,satyrique de la ,court4 #dbh ,the inventory of the unfortunate ,marchal de ,marillac1 beheaded #afcb1 has broderye et poinctz d',espagnes d'or1 argent et soye2 rabats et collets de point coupp2 taffetas nacarat garnye de dantelle d'argent2 pour-poinct passement de dantelle de canetille de ,flandre1 etc4--,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1dbf4 #dbi #afbj1 ,feb4 #hth4 ,dclaration portant deffenses de porter des clinquants1 passements1 broderies1 etc4--,arch4 ,nat4 ,g4 ,g4 ,g4 #afbc1 ,march #bjth4 ,dclaration qui defend l'usage des toffes d'or1 etc4--,recueil des anciennes ,lois ,franaises4 ,t4 #af1 #ajg4 #afbe1 ,sept4 #cjth4 ,dclaration prohibits the wearing of collets1 fraizes1 manchettes1 et autres linges des passements1 ,point coupez et ,dentelles1 comme aussi des ,broderies et ,decoupures sur quentin ou autre toile4--,bib4 ,nat4 ,l4 i4 #h4 #dcj ,consolation des ,dames sur la ,reformation des passemens4 #afbj4 #dca ,again1 #afcc1 ,nov4 #ahth4 ,dclaration restricts the prohibition2 permits passements manufacturs dans le royaume qui n'excederont #i ll4 l'aune4--,arch4 ,nat4 ,g4 ,g4 ,g4 #afcd1 ,may #cjth4 ,lettres patentes pour la reformation du luxe des habits1 prohibits dentelles1 passements et broderies on boots1 carriages1 etc4 7,british ,museum74 #afcf1 ,april #crd4 ,dclaration contre le ,luxe4 ,again prohibits both foreign and home-made points coups1 etc41 under pain of banishment for five years1 confiscation1 and a fine of #fjjj francs4--,de la ,mare1 ,trait de la ,police4 #afci1 ,nov4 #bdth4 ,fresh prohibition1 points de ,gnes specially mentioned4 ,not to wear on the collar1 cuffs1 or boots1 autres choses que de la toile simple sans aucune faon4--,arch4 ,nat4 ,g4 ,g4 ,g4 #dcb ,le ,courtisan ,reform1 suivant l',edit4 de l'anne #afcc2 and again1 ,le ,jardin de la ,noblesse ,franoise dans lequel ce peut cueillir leur manire de ,vettement4 #afbi4 #dcc ,april1 #afcf4 #dcd #afca4 ,trsorerie de la ,reine ,marie de ,mdicis4--,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #aia4 #dce ,vulson de la ,colombire1 ,pompes qu'on pratique aux obsques des ,rois de ,france4 #dcf ,mmoires de ,guy ,joly1 from #afdh to #affe4 #dcg ,about this period a special ,act had confirmed the ,statutes of the ,matres ,passementiers of ,paris4 ,by ,article #ba1 they are privileged to make every sort of passement or lace1 sur l'oreiller1 aux fuzeaux1 aux pingles1 et la main1 on condition the material1 gold1 silver1 thread1 or silk1 be de toutes fines ou de toutes fausses4 ,the sale of thread and lace was allowed to the ,lingres1 but by an ,arrt of the ,parliament of ,paris1 #affe1 no one could be a marchande lingre unless she had made profession of the religion catholique1 apostolique1 et romaine1 a condition worthy of the times4 ,il n'y fut1 writes ,gilles de ,felice1 in his ,histoire des ,protestants de ,france1 pas jusqu' la corporation des lingres qui ne s'en allt remontrer au conseil que leur communaut1 ayant t institue par saint ,louis1 no pouvait admettre d'hrtiques1 et cette rclamation fut gravement confirme par un arrt du #ba aot1 #affe4 #dch ,dated ,november #aith1 #afec4 ,the letter is given in full by the ,marquis de ,laborde in ,le ,palais ,mazarin4 ,paris1 #ahde4 #dci ,inv4 fait apres la mort du ,cardinal ,mazarin1 #affa4--;,bibl4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,suite de ,mortmart1 #cg4 #ddj ,it is to be found at the ,archives ,national1 or in the ,library of the ,cour de ,cassation4 ,in the ,archives ,national is a small collection of ordinances relative to lace collected by ,m4 ,rondonneau1 extending from #afff to #aggc4 ,it is very difficult to get at all the ordinances4 ,many are printed in ,de la ,mare 7,trait de la ,police72 but the most complete work is the ,recueil gnral des anciennes ,lois franaises1 depuis l'an #dbj jusqu' la ,rvolution de #aghi1 par ,,mm4 ,isambert1 ,ducrusy1 et ,taillandier4 ,paris1 #ahbi4 ,the ordinances bear two dates1 that of their issue and of their registry4 #dda ,this canon1 originally called bas de bottes1 was a circle of linen or other stuff fastened below the knee1 widening at the bottom so as to fill the enlargement of the boot1 and when trimmed with lace1 having the appearance of a ruffle4 #ddb ,dictionnaire des ,prcieuses4 #affj4 ,molire likewise ridicules them3-- ,et de ces grands canons1 o1 comme des entraves1 ,on met tous les matins les deux jambes esclaves4 --,l'cole des ,maris4 ,and again1 in ,l'cole des ,femmes3 ,ils ont de grands canons1 force rubans et plumes4 #ddc ,les ,dlices de la ,france1 par ,m4 ,savinire d',alqui4 #afgj4 #ddd ,the fashion of wearing black lace was introduced into ,england in the reign of ,charles ,,ii4 ,anon the house grew full1 and the candles lit1 and it was a glorious sight to see our ,mistress ,stewart in black and white lace1 and her head and shoulders dressed with diamonds4--,pepys's ,diary4 ,the ,french have increased among us many considerable trades1 such as black and white lace4--,england's ,great ,happiness1 etc4 ,dialogue between ,content and ,complaint4 #afgg4 ,item1 un autre habit de grosse moire garny de dantelle d',angleterre noire4--#afia4 ,inv4 de ,madame de ,simiane4 ,arch4 ,nat41 ,m4 ,m4 #hjb4 #dde ,of this custom1 a relic may still be found at the ,court of ,turin1 where ladies wear lappets of black lace4 ,not many years since1 the wife of a ,russian minister1 persisting to appear in a suit of ,brussels point1 was courteously requested by the ,grand ,chamberlain to retire 7#ahfi74 #ddf ,chroniques de l',oeil-de-,boeuf4 #ddg ,madame de ,motteville is not complimentary to the ladies of the ,spanish ,court3 ,elles avoient peu de linge1 she writes1 et leurs dentelles nous parurent laides4--,mmoires pour servir l'histoire d',anne d',autriche4 #ddh ,madame de ,svign mentions these dresses3 ,avez-vous ou parler des transparens8444 de robes noires transparentes ou des belles dentelles d',angleterre4--,lettres4 #ddi #afij4 ,chroniques de l',oeil-de-,boeuf4 #dej #affa1 ,may #bg2 #affb1 ,jan4 #a2 #affd1 ,may #ca1 ,sept4 #ah1 and ,dec4 #ab4 #dea ,on fabriquait prcdemment ces espces de dentelles guipures1 dont on ornait les aubes des prtres1 les rochets des vques et les jupons des femmes de qualit4--,roland de la ,platire4 ,the articles on lace by ,roland and ,savary have been copied by all succeeding writers on the subject4 #deb ,mgr4 de ,bonzy1 ,dec4 #bj1 #affd4 ,correspondance administrative sous ,colbert1 vol4 #c4 #dec ,lefbure4 #ded ,il y a trs longtemps que le point coup se faict icy1 qui a son dbit selon le temps2 mais qu'une femme nomme ,la ,perrire 7sic71 fort habile ces ouvrages1 trouva il y a quelques annes le moyen d'imiter les points de ,venise1 en sorte qu'elle y vint telle perfection que ceux qu'elle faisoit ne devaient rien aux estrangers4 ,pour faire ces ouvrages il luy falloit enseigner plusieurs petites filles auxquelles elle montroit faire ce point 444 prsent je vous puis asseurer qu'il y a plus de #h1jjj personnes qui y travaillent dans ,alenon1 dans ,sez1 dans ,argentan1 ,falaise4444 ,monseigneur1 c'est une manne1 et une vraie bndiction du ciel qui s'est espandue sur tout ce pays1 dans lequel les petitz enfants mesmes de sept ans trouvent moyen de gaigner leur vie4 ,les vieillards y travaillent et les petites bergerettes des champs y travaillent mmes4--,letter from ,favier-,duboulay1 intendant d',alenon since #afdd4 ,correspondance administrative sous le rgne de ,louis ,,xiv 7quoted by ,madame ,despierres71 vol4 #c4 #dee ,in #ahdb ,m4 ,joseph ,odolant ,desnos1 grandson of this author1 writes1 ,ce fut une dame ,gilberte1 qui avait fait son apprentissage ,venise1 et tait native d',alenon4 ,ds qu'elle fut ses ordres1 ce ministre 7,colbert7 la logea dans le magnifique chteau de ,lonrai1 qu'il possdait prs d',alenon4--,annuaire de l',orne4 #def ,mmoires historiques sur la ville d',alenon1 ,m4 ,odolant ,desnos4 ,alenon1 #aghg4 #deg ,le chteau de ,lonrai ne passa dans la maison de ,colbert que par le mariage de ,catherine ,thrse de ,matignon1 ,marquise de ,lonrai1 avec ,jean-,baptiste ,colbert1 fils ain du grand ,colbert1 le #f;e septembre #afgh 7i4e41 fourteen years after the establishment of points de ,france at ,alenon7 --,madame ,despierres1 ,histoire de point d',alenon4 #deh ,madame ,despierres1 after an exhaustive study of the mass of documentary evidence on this point1 gives as her opinion that-- 7#a7 ,la premire personne qui ,alenon imita le point de ,venise1 et par consquent cra le point d',alenon1 fut ,mme ,la ,perrire1 vers #afej1 et non ,mme ,gilbert4 7#b7 ,la prpose-directrice des manufactures de point de ,france des diffrentes villes du royaume qui a tabli les bureaux ,alenon1 fut ,catherine de ,marcq1 et non pas une dame ,gilbert4 7#c7 ,les prposes mises la tte de l'tablissement d',alenon taient ,mme ,raffy et ,marie ,fillesae1 dont les noms ne rpondent pas celui d'une dame ,gilbert4--,madame ,despierres1 ,histoire de point d',alenon4 #dei ,mrs4 ,palliser sought in vain for this ordinance in the ,library of the ,cour de ,cassation1 where it is stated to be1 by the authors of the ,recueil gnral des anciennes ,lois franaises1 depuis l'an #dbj jusqu' la ,rvolution de #aghi2 but fortunately it is recited in a subsequent act1 dated ,oct4 #ab1 #afff 7,arch4 ,nat41 ,coll4 ,rondonneau71 by which it appears that the declaration ordered the establishment in les villes de ,quesnoy1 ,arras1 ,reims1 ,sedan1 ,chteau-,thierry1 ,loudun1 ,alenon1 ,aurillac1 et autres du royaume1 de la manufacture de toutes sortes d'ouvrages de fil1 tant l'guille qu'au coussin1 en la manire des points qui se font ,venise1 ,gennes1 ,raguse1 et autres pays estrangers1 qui seroient appells points de ,france1 by which it would appear the term point de ,france did not exclusively belong to the productions of ,alenon4 ,after the company was dissolved in #afge the name of point de ,france was applied to point d',alenon alone4 ,in a subsequent arrt it is set forth that the entrepreneurs have caused to be brought in great numbers the best workers from ,venice and other foreign cities1 and have distributed them over ,le ,quesnoy and the above-mentioned towns1 and that now are made in ,france des ouvrages de fil si exquis1 qu'ils esgallent1 mesme surpassent en beaut les estrangers4--,bibl4 de la ,cour de ,cassation4 ,what became of these manufactures at ,le ,quesnoy and ,chteau-,thierry1 of which not a tradition remains8 #dfj ,talon1 secrtaire du cabinet1 was one of the first members4 ,we find by an arrt1 ,feb4 #ae1 #affg1 that this patent had already been infringed4 ,on the petition of ,jean ,pluymers1 ,paul1 and ,catherine de ,marcq1 entrepreneurs of the fabric of points de ,france1 his ,majesty confirms to them the sole privilege of making and selling the said points4--,arch4 ,nat41 ,coll4 ,rondonneau4 ,nov4 #ag of the same year appears a fresh prohibition of wearing or selling the passements1 lace1 and other works in thread of ,venice1 ,genoa1 and other foreign countries 7,british ,museum71 and ,march #ag1 #affh1 ,itratives prohibitions to wear these1 either new or commenc d'user1 as injurious to a manufacture of point which gives subsistence to a number of persons in the kingdom4--,ibid4 ,again1 ,aug4 #ai1 #affi1 a fresh arrt in consequence of complaints that the workers are suborned and work concealed in ,paris1 etc4--,arch ,nat41 ,coll4 ,rondonneau4 #dfa ,colbert said to ,louis ,,xiv43 ,there will always be found fools enough to purchase the manufactures of ,france1 though ,france should be prohibited from purchasing those of other countries4 ,the ,king agreed with the minister1 whom he made chief director of the trade and manufactures of the kingdom4 #dfb ,a favourite saying of ,colbert4 #dfc ,the artists who furnished designs for all works undertaken for the court of ,louis ,,xiv4 must have supplied designs for the lace manufactures3 ,in the accounts of the ,king's buildings is the entry of a payment due to ,bailly1 the painter1 for several days' work with other painters in making designs for embroideries and points d',espagne 7,lefbure74 #dfd ,the principal centres of lace-making were ,aurillac1 ,sedan1 ,rheims1 ,le ,quesnoy1 ,alenon1 ,arras1 and ,loudun1 and the name ,points de ,france was given without distinction to all laces made at these towns2 preference was given in choosing these centres to those towns already engaged in lace-making4 ,alenon produced the most brilliant results1 for from the beginning of the seventeenth century the town had been engaged in needle-point lace1 and some of the lace-makers earned high wages1 and showed great aptitude for the art4 ,in her ,histoire du ,point d',alenon1 ,madame ,despierres has made some interesting extracts from various marriage contracts and wills3-- ,a notable instance is that of a family named ,barbot1 the mother having amassed #ejj livres4 ,her daughter1 ,marthe ,barbot1 married ,michel ,mercier1 sieur de la ,perrire1 and brought him a wedding-portion of #cjj livres1 the earnings of her industry2 while her sister ,suzanne ,barbot's wedding-portion1 upon her marriage with ,paul ,ternouillet1 amounted to #f1jjj livres1 earned in making cut-works and works en velin 7needle-point lace done on a parchment pattern71 which command a high price 7,lefbure74 #dfe ,the ,venetian ,senate1 according to ,charles ,yriarte1 regarded this emigration of workers to ,france as a crime against the ,state1 and issued the following decree3-- ,if any artist or handicraftsman practises his art in any foreign land to the detriment of the ,republic1 orders to return will be sent him2 if he disobeys them1 his nearest of kin will be put into prison1 in order that through his interest in their welfare his obedience may be compelled4 ,if he comes back1 his past offence will be condoned1 and employment for him will be found in ,venice2 but if1 notwithstanding the imprisonment of his nearest of kin1 he obstinately decides to continue living abroad1 an emissary will be commissioned to kill him1 and his next of kin will only be liberated upon his death4 #dff ,to afford an idea of the importance of the lace trade in ,france at the beginning of the eighteenth century1 and of the immense consumption of lace in ,france1 we give the following statistics3--,in #agjg1 the collection of the duties of lace was under-farmed to one tienne ,nicolas1 for the annual sum of #bja1jjj livres4 ,the duty then was of #ej livres per lb4 weight of lace1 so that there entered annually into ,france above #djj1jjj lbs4 of lace1 which1 estimating at the lowest #a1jjj lbs4 of lace to be worth #a1jjj livres1 would represent #d millions of that epoch4 ,taking into calculation that fraud was extensively practised1 that the points of ,venice and ,genoa1 being prohibited1 could not appear in the receipts2 and that1 on the other part1 the under-farmer did not pay the farmer-general the #bja1jjj livres without the certainty of profit to himself1 we must admit that the figure1 though high1 is far from representing the value of the foreign laces which entered ,france at that period4 ,we think that #h millions 7#cbj1jjj7 would be below the true figure4--,rapport sur les ,dentelles fait la ,commission franaise de l',exposition ,universelle de ,londres1 #ahea4 ,felix ,aubry4 ,the best history of lace published4 #dfg ,deux tours de chaire de point de ,france donnez depuis quelques annes par deux dames de la paroisse4--,inv4 de l'glise de ,saint-,merry1 ,paris4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,l4 ,l4 #hei4 #dfh ,inv4 de ,madame ,anne ,palatine de ,bavire1 ,princesse de ,cond4--,ibid4 ,x4 #aj1jfe4 #dfi ,inv4 de l'glise de ,saint-,gervais1 ,paris4--,ibid4 ,l4 ,l4 #hed4 #dgj ,the saints1 too1 came in for their share of the booty4 ,there was ,st4 ,winifred1 writes a traveller of the day1 in a point commode with a large scarf on and a loup in hand1 as tho' she were going to mass4 ,st4 ,denis1 with a laced hat and embroidered coat and sash1 like a captain of the guards4--,six ,weeks in ,france4 #afia4 #dga ,toille de ,hollande1 avec des grands points de ,france4--,le ,crmonial de la ,nomination de ,monseigneur le ,dauphin4 #affh4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #adca4 #dgb ,le ,mercure ,galant4 ,juillet1 #afhh4 ,this periodical1 which we shall have occasion so frequently to quote1 was begun in #afgb1 and continued to ,july1 #agaf4 ,it comprises1 with the ,extraordinaires1 #ega vols4 in #abmo4 ,le ,mercure de ,france1 from #agag to #agib1 consists of #ggg vols4--,brunet4 ,manuel de ,libraire4 #dgc ,le ,mercure ,galant4 #dgd ,it was the custom1 at the birth of a ,dauphin1 for the papal nuncio to go to the palace and present to the new-born child les langes benites1 or consecrated layette1 on behalf of his ,holiness the ,pope4 ,the shirts1 handkerchiefs1 and other linen1 were by half-dozens1 and trimmed with the richest point4 ,this custom dates as early as the birth of ,louis ,,xiii4 ,mercier describes the ceremony of carrying the layette to ,versailles in the time of ,louis ,,xv4--,vie du ,dauphin1 pre de ,louis ,,xvi4 ,paris1 #aheh4 #dge ,in the ,lancaster state bedroom1 at ,fonthill1 was sold in #ahbc3 ,a state bed quilt of ,brussels point1 for #ajj guineas1 and a ,brussels toilet cover for #cj guineas4--,fonthill4 ,sale ,catalogue4 #afid4 ,une toilette de satin violet picque garny d'un point d',espagne d'or deux carreaux de mesme satin et aussi piqu4--,inv4 de ,mgr4 de la ,vrillire1 ,patriarche1 ,archevque de ,bourges4 ,bib4 ,nat4 #agdc4 ,une toilette et son bonhomme garnie d'une vieille dentelle d',angleterre4--,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,bourbon4 #ageh4 ,une toilette avec sa touaille de point fort vieux d',alenon4--,inv4 de ,mademoiselle de ,charollois4 #aggj4 ,une tres belle toilette de point d',argentan1 en son surtout de #i1jjj livres4 ,une tres belle toilette d',angleterre1 et son surtout de #i1jjj4--;,cptes4 de ,madame du ,barry4 #dgf ,on voit toujours des jupes de point de ,france4--,mercure ,galant1 #afhf4 ,corsets chamarrs de point de ,france4--,ibid4 #dgg ,madame de ,svign describes ,mademoiselle de ,blois as belle comme un ange1 with un tablier et une bavette de point de ,france4--,lettres4 ,paris1 #bg ,jan41 #afgd4 #dgh ,garnis de point de ,france formant une manire de rose antique4--,mercure ,galant4 #afgg4 #dgi ,in the ,extraordinaire du ,mercure for #afgh1 we have1 in habit d'este1 gloves of point d',angleterre4 #dhj ,mercure ,galant4 #afgb4 #dha ,ibid4 #afhf4 #dhb ,mercure ,galant4 ,fv4 #afhe4 #dhc ,ibid4 #afgh4 #dhd ,at the ,mazarin ,library there are four folio volumes of engravings1 after ,bonnard and others1 of the costumes of the time of ,louis ,,xiv42 and at the ,archives ,nat4 is a large series preserved in cartons numbered ,m4 #hae to #hbc1 etc41 labelled ,gravures de ,modes4 #dhe ,la ,fontange altire4--,boileau4 #dhf ,the wife of ,trajan wore this coiffure1 and her sister ,marcina ,faustina1 wife of ,antoninus1 much regretted the fashion when it went out4 ,speaking of this head-dress1 says a writer in the ,bibliothque ,universelle of #afic1 ,on regarde quelque fois des certaines choses comme tout fait nouvelles1 qui ne sont que des vieilles modes renouvelles4 ,l'auteur en appelle un exemple dans les coiffures eleves que portent les femmes aujourd'hui1 croyant ajouter par l quelque chose leur taille4 ,les dames ,romaines avaient la mme ambition et mettaient des ajustemens de tte tout semblables aux ,commodes et aux ,fontanges de ce temps4 ,juvenal en parle expressment dans sa ,satire ,,vi4 #dhg ,galerie de l'ancienne ,cour4 #dhh #afii4 ,oct4 ,le ,vendredi #be1 il y eut grande toilette chez ,madame la ,duchesse de ,bourgogne o les dames parurent1 pour la premire fois1 en coiffures d'une forme nouvelle1 c'est dire beaucoup plus basses4--,mercure ,galant4 #dhi ,corr4 de la ,duchesse d',orlans1 ,princesse ,palatine1 mre du ,rgent4 #dij ,speaking of the ,iron ,mask1 ,voltaire writes3--,his greatest passion was for linen of great fineness and for lace4--,sicle de ,louis ,,xiv4 #dia ,fought by ,marshal ,luxembourg--vieux tapissier de ,notre-,dame--against ,william of ,orange4 #dib ,falbala--a deep single flounce of point or gold lace4 ,the ,mercure ,galant1 #afih1 describing the ,duchess of ,burgundy la promenade1 states3 ,elle avoit un habit gris de lin en falbala1 tout garny de dentelles d'argent4 ,femme de qualit en ,steinkerke et ,falbala4--,engraving of #afic4 #dic ,see ,,england4--,,william ,,iii4 #did ,regnard4 #die ,dame du palais to ,queen ,marie ,thrse1 and afterwards first lady of honour to the ,duchess of ,burgundy4 ,she died #agbf4 #dif ,mercure ,galant4 #afhc4 ,again1 in #afhh1 he says3 ,les points de ,malines sont fort en regne pour les manches qu'on nomme engageantes4 ,ou y met des points trs-hauts1 fort plisss1 avec des pieds4 ,ladies trimmed their berthes and sleeves with lace2 when the sleeves were short they were called engageantes2 when long1 pagodes4 ,upon skirts laces were worn volantes or as flounces1 whence the name volant or flounce1 which has come into use for all wide laces2 these flouncings were draped either in tournantes or quilles1 the former laid horizontally1 the latter vertically upon skirts2 but in either case these were stitched down on each edge of the lace1 whereas flounces were fastened to dresses by the engrlure or footing4 ,lace barbes and fontanges were used as head-dresses4 ,they appear to have been soon introduced into ,england1 for ,evelyn1 in his ,mundus ,muliebris1 #afij1 says3 ,about her sleeves are engageants2 and the ,ladies' ,dictionary of nearly the same date gives3 ngageants1 double ruffles that fall over the wrist4 ,in the lace bills of ,queen ,mary ,,ii41 we find-- s4 d4 #afid4 #a yd4 ,point for a broad pair of ,engageants1 at #e #ajs4 #i #ab #f #c for a double pair of ditto1 at #e #ajs4 #ai #e #j #a pair of ,point ,engageants #cj #j #j --7,b4 ,m41 ,add4 ,,mss4 ,no4 #egea47 #agbj4 ,six pairs d'engageantes1 dont quatre un rang de dentelle1 et les autres paires double rang1 l'une de dentelle d',angleterre raiseau et l'autre de dentelle bride4--,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,bourbon4 ,arch4 ,nat4 #agbc4 ,une paire d'engageantes deux rangs de point plat raiseau4--,inv4 d',anne de ,bavire1 ,princesse de ,cond4 #aggj4 ,six rangs d'engageantes de point l'aiguille1 with the same of point d',argentan and ,angleterre1 appear in the lace bills of ,madame du ,barry4 #dig #agbe4 ,deux manteaux de bain et deux chemises1 aussi de bain1 garnis aux manches de dentelle1 l'une bride1 et l'autre raiseau4--,inv4 d',anne de ,bavire1 ,princesse de ,cond4 #agdc4 ,ung ,tour de baignoir de bazin garny de vieille dentelle4 ,trois linges de baignoire garnis de dentelle4--,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,bourbon4 #dih ,describing the duties of the critic of each bright ruelle1 ,tickell says3-- ,oft with varied art1 his thoughts digress ,on deeper themes--the documents of dress2 ,with nice discernment1 to each style of face ,adapt a ribbon1 or suggest a lace2 ,o'er ,granby's cap bid loftier feathers float1 ,and add new bows to ,devon's petticoat4--,wreath of ,fashion4 #dii ,in the spring of #ahjb1 ,mr4 ,holcroft1 when in ,paris1 received a polite note from a lady at whose house he visited1 requesting to see him4 ,he went1 and was informed by her maid the lady was in her warm bath1 but she would announce his arrival4 ,she returned1 and led him to a kind of closet1 where her mistress was up to her chin in water4 ,he knew the manners of the place1 and was not surprised4--,travels4 #ejj ,mercier also mentions1 in his ,tableau de ,paris1 la poupe de la rue ,saint-,honor3 ,c'est de ,paris que les profondes inventions en modes donnent des loix l'univers4 ,la fameuse poupe1 le mannequin precieux1 affubl des modes les plus nouvelles 444 passe de ,paris ,londres tous les mois1 et va de l rpandre ses graces dans toute l',europe4 ,il va au ,nord et du ,midi1 il pntre ,constantinople et ,petersbourg1 et le pli qu'a donn une main franoise se rpte chez toute les nations1 humbles observatrices du got de la rue ,saint-,honor4 #eja ,the practice was much more ancient4 ,m4 ,ladomie asserts that in the ,royal expenses for #acia1 figure so many livres for a doll sent to the ,queen of ,england2 in #adif another1 sent to the ,queen of ,spain2 and in #aega a third1 to the ,duchess of ,bavaria4 ,henry ,,iv4 writes in #afjj1 before his marriage to ,marie de ,mdicis3 ,frontenac tells me that you desire patterns of our fashion in dress4 ,i send you1 therefore1 some model dolls4--,miss ,freer's ,henry ,,iv4 ,it was also the custom of ,venice1 at the annual fair held in the ,piazza of ,st4 ,mark1 on the day of the ,ascension 7a fair which dates from #aahj71 to expose in the most conspicuous place of the fair a rag doll1 which served as a model for the fashions for the year4--,michiel1 ,origine delle ,feste ,veneziani4 #ejb ,tableau de ,paris4 #aghb4 #ejc ,the ,french nation are eminent for making a fine outside1 when perhaps they want necessaries1 and indeed a gay shop and a mean stock is like the ,frenchman with his laced ruffles without a shirt4--,the ,complete ,english ,tradesman4 ,dan4 ,defoe4 ,lond41 #agbf4 ,foote1 in his ,prologue to the ,trip to ,paris1 says1 ,they sold me some ruffles1 and ,i found the shirts4 #ejd ,souvenirs de la ,marquise de ,crquy4 #agaj-ahjb4 #eje ,clement ,x4 was in the habit of making presents of ,italian lace1 at that time much prized in ,france1 to ,m4 de ,sabire4 ,he sends ruffles1 said the irritated ,frenchman who looked for something more tangible1 to a man who never has a shirt4 #ejf ,m4 de ,vendme1 at his marriage1 was quite astonished at putting on his clean shirt a-day1 and fearfully embarrassed at having some point lace on the one given him to put on at night4 ,indeed1 continues she1 you would hardly recognise the taste of the ,french4 ,the men are worse than the women4 ,they wish their wives to take snuff1 play1 and pay no more attention to their dress4 ,the exquisite cleanliness of ,anne of ,austria's court was at an end4 #ejg ,in the old ,scotch song of ,gilderoy1 the famous highwayman1 we have an instance3-- ,for ,gilderoy1 that luve of mine1 ,gude faith1 ,i freely bought ,a wedding sark of ,holland fine1 ,wi' silken flowers wrought4 ,and in an account quoted in the ,reliquary1 ,july1 #ahfe1 is the charge on ,feb4 #af1 of six shillings for a cravat for hur ,vallentine4 #ejh ,inv4 aprs le decs de ,mgr4 ,c4 de ,saint-,albin1 ,archevesque de ,cambray4 7,son of the ,regent47 #agfd4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,m4 ,m4 #gah4 ,louis ,,xvi4 had #ei pairs the year before his death3 #bh of point1 #ba of ,valenciennes1 and #aj of ,angleterre4--,etat des ,effets subsistant et formant le fond de la garderobe du ,roi au #a;er ,janvier1 #agib4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 #ejf1 ,no4 #cj4 #eji ,etat d'un ,trousseau4 ,description des ,arts et ,mtiers4 ,paris1 #aggg4 #eaj ,deux aunes trois quarts d',angleterre bride pour deux paires de manchettes tournantes1 #de livres l'aune4--,garderobe de ,s4 ,a4 ,s4 ,mgr4 le ,duc de ,penthivre4 #agch4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #cij4 #eaa ,ibid4 ,the laces for ruffles were of various kinds3 point brod1 point bride1 point raiseau1 point bride caille1 point superfin1 point brillant1 ,angleterre bride raiseau1 and one pair of point d',argentan2 ,valenciennes pour manchettes de nuit #db livres l'aune4 ,the ,duke's wardrobe accounts afford a good specimen of the extravagance in the decoration of night attire at this period3-- #d au4 de point pour collet et manchettes de la chemise de nuit et garnir la coffe1 #acj ll4 #ebj ll4 #c au4 dito pour jabot et fourchettes de nuit et garnir le devant de la camisole1 #ff ll4 #bdg ll4 #ajs4 ,sept douze de point pour plaquer sur les manches de camisolle1 #ee ll4 #cb ll4 #as4 ,then for his nightcaps3-- #c au4 ,toile fine pour ,coffes de ,nuit #bg ll4 #d au4 ,dentelles de ,malines pour les tours de ,coffes1 #bj ll4 #hj ll4 #e au4 ,valenciennes1 #df ll4 #bec ll4 #eb au4 dito petit point1 pour garnir les ,tours1 #e ll4 #es4 #bgc ll4 ,pour avoir mont un bonnet de nuit de point #a l4 #es4 #g au4 de campanne de point pour chamarrer la camisolle et le bonnet de nuit1 #aj ll4 #ajs4 #gc ll4 #ajs4 ,the ,marquise de ,crquy speaks of a night-cap1 grandes dentelles1 offered1 with la robe de chambre1 to the ,dauphin1 son of ,louis ,,xv41 by the people of the ,duke de ,grammont1 on his having lost his way hunting1 and wandered to the ,duke's chteau4 #eab ,le ,parisien qui n'a pas dix mille livres de rente n'a ordinairement ni draps1 ni lit1 ni serviettes1 ni chemises2 mais il a une montre repetition1 des glaces1 des bas de soie1 des dentelles4--,tableau de ,paris4 #eac ,histoire de ,paris4 #ead ,ordinairement un laquais de bon ton prend le nom de son matre1 quand il est avec d'autres laquais1 il prend aussi ses moeurs1 ses gestes1 ses manires4444 ,le laquais d'un seigneur porte la montre d'or cisele1 des dentelles1 des boucles brillants1 etc4--,tableau de ,paris4 #eae ,amusemens des ,eaux de ,spa4 ,amsterdam1 #agea4 ,les manches qu' table on voit tter la sauce4--cole des maris4 #eaf ,the state liveries of ,queen ,victoria were most richly embroidered in gold4 ,they were made in the early part of ,george ,,ii4's reign1 since which time they have been in use4 ,in the year #ahdh1 the servants appeared at the royal balls in gold and ruffles of the richest gros point de ,france1 of the same epoch as their dresses4 ,in #ahdi1 the lace no longer appeared--probably suppressed by order4 ,queen ,anne1 who was a great martinet in trifles1 had her servants marshalled before her every day1 that she might see if their ruffles were clean and their periwigs dressed4 #eag ,tableau de ,paris4 #eah ,mmoires4 #eai #agbc4 ,un couvrepied de toile blanche1 picqure de ,marseille1 garni autour d'un point en campane de demie aune de hauteur4--,inv4 d',a4 de ,bavire1 ,princesse de ,cond4 #agdc4 ,un couvrepied de toile picque1 brode or et soye1 bord de trois cts d'une grande dentelle d',angleterre et du quatrime d'un moyen dentelle d',angleterre bords4 ,un autre1 garni d'une grande et moyenne dentelle de point d',alenon4 ,un autre1 garni d'un grand point de demie aune de hauteur1 brod1 garni d'une campane en bas4 ,un autre1 'point bride1' and many others4--,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,bourbon4 #ebj #agjd4 ,deux taies d'oreiller garnies de dentelle1 l'une raiseau1 et l'autre bride4--,inv4 de ,f4 ,p4 ,loisel4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1dei4 #agbc4 ,quatre taies d'oreiller1 dont trois garnies de differentes dentelles1 et l'autre de ,point4--,inv4 d',anne de ,bavire1 ,princesse de ,cond4 #agee4 ,deux taies d'oreiller garnies de point d',alenon4--,inv4 de ,mademoiselle de ,charollais4 #agfa4 ,trois taies d'oreiller de dentelle de point brides4--,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,modne4 #aggj4 #g au4 #a_/h vraie ,valenciennes pour garnir une taie d'oreiller1 #fj ll4 #dbg #aj4--;,comptes de ,madame du ,barry4 #agjg4 #g au4 tournante d',angleterre pour garnir des plottes 7pincushions7 #ej #cej #jj4--;,comptes de ,madame du ,barry4 #aghh4 #ab ,pelottes garnies de dentelle4--,ibid4 #f trousses peigne garnies de dentelle4--,fourni pour ,mgr4 le ,dauphin4 ,arch4 ,nat4 #agib4 #f ,pelottes garnies de dentelle4--,linge du i-devant ,roi4 ,ibid4 #eba ,souvenirs4 #ebb ,mmoires du ,due de ,luynes4 #ebc #aghf4 ,courts of ,europe4 #ebd ,it may be amusing to the reader to learn the laces necessary for l'tat d'un ,trousseau1 in #aggg1 as given in the ,description des ,arts de ,mtiers3 ,une toilette de ville en dentelle2 #b jupons garnis du mme4 ,une coiffure avec tour de gorge1 et le fichu pliss de point d',alenon4 ,un idem de point d',angleterre4 #a id4 de vraie ,valenciennes4 ,une coiffure dite ',battant d'oeil' de ,malines brode1 pour le neglig4 #f fichus simples en mousseline mille fleurs garnis de dentelle pour le neglig4 #ab grands bonnets garnis d'une petite dentelle pour la nuit4 #ab deux rangs1 plus beaux1 pour le jour1 en cas d'indisposition4 #ab serres-tte garnis d'une petite dentelle pour la nuit4 #b taies d'oreiller garnies en dentelle4 #ab pices d'estomach garnies d'une petite dentelle4 #f garnitures de corset4 #ab tours de gorge4 #ab paires ce manchettes en dentelle4 ,une toilette2 les volants1 au nombre de deux1 sont en dentelle2 ils ont #e aunes de tour4 ,dessus de pelotte1 en toile garnie de dentelle1 etc4 ,la ,layette3 #f paires de manches pour la mre1 garnies de dentelle4 #bd bonnets ronds de #c ages en dentelle4 #ab bavoirs de deux ages1 garnis en dentelle4 ,the layette was furnished together with the trousseau1 because1 says a fabricant1 les enfans se font plus vite que les points4 #ebe #aghg4 ,pour achat de #aa au4 blonde noire1 #f #aj #ga livres #aj sous4--,comptes de ,monsieur ,hergosse4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss41 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1ddg4 #ebf ,when the ,empress ,josphine was at ,frankfort-on-the-,maine1 a masked ball was given on the occasion4 ,the ladies1 says ,mademoiselle ,avrillion1 wore short dominoes with their faces covered with a mask1 le tour des yeux garni d'une petite dentelle noire4--,mm4 de ,mademoiselle ,avrillion1 premire femme de chambre de l',impratrice4 ,paris1 #ahcc4 #ebg ,a few extracts from ,madame du ,barry's lace accounts will furnish an idea of her consumption of point d',angleterre3-- ,une toilette d',angleterre complette de #hhbc livres4 ,une parure compose de deux barbes1 rayon et fond1 #f rangs de manchettes1 #a au4 de ruban fait exprs1 #a_/c jabot pour le devant de tour4 ,le tout d',angleterre superfin de #gjjj ---- ,un ajustemente d',angleterre complet de #cbaf ---- ,une garniture de peignoir d',angleterre de #bcdb livres4 ,une garniture de fichu d',angleterre #chh ---- #h au4 d',angleterre pour tayes d'oreiller #bdj #i au4 dito pour la tte #gf #ad au4 pied dito pour la tte #adj ---- #def livres4 #ebh ,les dentelles les plus prcieuses pour chaque saison4--7,duchesse d',abrants47 #ebi ,mmoires4 #ecj ,mm4 de la ,princesse ,palatine1 veuve de ,monsieur4 #eca ,cuisinires et ,tourires4 ,the joke formed the subject of some clever verses from the ,chevalier de ,boufflers4 #ecb ,marli1 which takes its name from the village between ,versailles and ,st4 ,germain1 is tulle dotted with small square spots4 ,see page #bbe4 #ecc ,the barbe1 or lappet1 of whatever form it be1 has always1 in all ages and all countries1 been a subject of etiquette4 ,at the interment of ,queen ,mary ,tudor1 ,december #adth1 #aeeh1 it is told how the ladies in the first and second chariots were clad in mourning apparel1 according to their estates1 their barbes above their chynes4 ,the #d ladies on horseback in like manner had their barbes on their chynes4 ,in the third chariot1 the ladies had their barbes under their chynes4--,state ,papers1 ,domestic1 ,eliz41 vol4 #cb4 ,see also the curious extract from ,madame de ,campan's ,mmoires3-- ,madame de ,noailles tait remplie de vertus2 mais l'etiquette tait pour elle une sorte d'atmosphre4 ,un jour je mis1 sans le vouloir1 cette pauvre dame dans une angoisse terrible2 la reine recevait je ne sais plus qui4 ,tout tait bien1 au moins je le croyais4 ,je vois tout--coup les yeux de ,madame de ,noailles attachs sur les miens1 et puis ses deux sourcils se levent jusqu'au haut de son front1 redescendent1 remontent4 ,l'agitation de la ,comtesse croissait toujours4 ,la reine s'aperut de tout ceci 444 et me dit alors mi-voix3 ',detachez vos barbes1 o la comtesse en mourra4' ,l'etiquette du costume disait3 ',barbes pendentes4' #ecd ,only in her last lace bill1 #aggc3 ,une paire de barbes plattes longues de en blonde fine fleurs fond d',alenon1 #cf4 ,une blonde grande hauteur bouquets dtachs et bordure riche4 #f au4 de blonde de grande hauteur faon d',alenon coquilles mille poix1 #ah4 ,une paire de sabots de comtesse de deux rangs de tulle blonde festons1 fond d',alenon4--,comptes de la ,comtesse du ,barry4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,f4 ,fr4 #haeg4 ,madame du ,barry went to the greatest extravagance in lace ajustements1 barbes1 collerettes1 volants1 quilles1 coffes1 etc41 of ,argentan1 ,angleterre1 and point l'aiguille4 #ece ,the great fashion4 ,the shoes were embroidered in diamonds1 which were scarcely worn on other parts of the dress4 ,the back seam1 trimmed with emeralds1 was called venez-y-voir4 #ecf ,souvenirs du ,marquis de ,valfons1 #agaj-aghf4 ,a chat1 tippet or ,palatine1 so named after the mother of the ,regent4 #ecg ,in the ,national ,archives1 formerly preserved with the ,livre ,rouge in the ,armorie de ,fer1 is the ,gazette pour l'anne1 #aghb1 of ,marie ,antoinette1 consisting of a list of the dresses furnished for the ,queen during the year1 drawn up by the ,comtesse d',ossune1 her dame des atours4 ,we find--grands habits1 robes sur le grand panier1 robes sur le petit panier1 with a pattern of the material affixed to each entry1 and the name of the couturire who made the dress4 ,one ,lvite alone appears trimmed with blonde4 ,there is also the ,gazette of ,madame ,elizabeth1 for #agib4 #ech ,mmoires sur la ,cour de ,louis ,,xvi4 #eci ,among these were ,sedan1 ,charleville1 ,mzires1 ,dieppe1 ,havre1 ,pont-l'vque1 ,honfleur1 ,eu1 and more than ten neighbouring villages4 ,the points of ,aurillac1 ,bourgogne1 and ,murat disappeared2 and worst of all was the loss of the manufacture of ,valenciennes4 ,laces were also made in ,champagne1 at ,troyes and ,domchry1 etc4 #edj #afdi4 ,anne ,gohory leaves all her personals to ,madame de ,svign except her plus beau mouchoir1 le col de point fin de ,flandres1 et une juppe de satin fleurs fond vert1 garnye de point fin d'or et de soie4 #agfd4 ,genevive ,laval bequeaths to her sister une garniture de dentelle de raiseau grandes dents1 valant au moins quinze livres l'aune4--,arch4 de ,nat4 ,y4 #eh4 #agfd4 ,anne ,challus leaves her belle garniture de dentelle en plein1 manchettes1 tour de gorge1 palatine et fond4--,ibid4 #agfd4 ,madame de ,pompadour1 in her will1 says1 ,je donne mes deux femmes de chambre tout ce qui concerne ma garderobe 444 y compris les dentelles4 #eda ,mm4 de ,mademoiselle d',avrillion4 #edb ,mmoires sur la ,restauration1 par ,madame la ,duchesse d',abrants4 #edc ,ibid4 ,t4 v41 p4 #dh4 #edd ,after the ,peace of ,amiens1 #ahja4 #ede ,mmoires de ,madame la ,duchesse d',abrants4 #edf ,the revival first appeared in the towns which made the cheaper laces3 ,caen1 ,bayeux1 ,mirecourt1 ,le ,puy1 ,arras1 etc4 #edg ,fil de mulquinerie4 #edh ,the name point ,colbert1 adopted in memory of the great ,minister1 is applied to point laces in high relief4 ,la brode a toujours exist dans le point d',alenon1 aussi que dans le point de ,venise1 seulement dans le point d',alenon les reliefs taient moins nlevs4 ,on ne mettait pas seulement un fil1 mais trois1 cinq1 huit ou dix fils1 suivant l'paisseur du relief que l'on voulait obtenir puis1 sur ce bourrage1 se faisaient des points boucls trs serrs de faon que la boucle fut presque sous les fils formant le relief4 ,c'est ce point que certains fabricants nomment point ,colbert4--,madame ,despierres1 ,histoire du ,point d',alenon4--,page #bbh1 post4 #edi ,in #afgc1 ,july1 we read in the ,mercure3--,on fait aussi des dentelles grandes brides1 comme aux points de fil sans raiseau1 et des dentelles d',espagne avec des brides claires sans picots2 et l'on fait aux nouveaux points de ,france des brides qui en sont remplies d'un nombre infini4 #eej ,mmoire concernant le ,gnralit d',alenon1 dress par ,m4 de ,pommereu4 #afih4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,fonds ,mortemart1 ,no4 #hi4 #eea ,vilain1 velin1 vellum1 from the parchment or vellum upon which it is made4 ,la manufacture des points de ,france1 appels dans le pays velin4--,savary1 ,vol4 ,i41 p4 #ajh4 ,the expression is still used4 ,when the author inquired at ,alenon the way to the house of ,mr4 ,r41 a lace manufacturer1 she was asked in return if it was ',celui qui fait le velin8'--,mrs4 ,palliser4 #eeb ,in #aghh ,arthur ,young states the number of lace-makers at and about ,alenon to be from #h1jjj to #i1jjj4--,travels in ,france4 ,madame ,despierres1 however1 states that only #ejj or #fjj lace-workers left ,alenon on the ,revocation of the ,edict of ,nantes1 as there were not #d1jjj lace-workers then in the town4 #eec ,he deducts #aej1jjj livres for the raw material1 the ,lille thread1 which was used at prices ranging from #fj to #a1fjj livres per pound2 from #hjj to #ijj livres for good fine point2 but ,lille at that time fabricated thread as high as #a1hjj livres per pound4 #eed ,in #agje there were ten processes3--7#a7 ,le dessin2 7#b7 le picage2 7#c7 la trace2 7#d7 les fonds2 7#e7 la dentelure ou bride picots2 7#f7 la brode2 7#g7 l'enlevage2 7#h7 l'boulage2 7#i7 le rgalage2 7#aj7 l'assemblage4 ,mrs4 ,palliser gives eighteen processes1 and states that this number is now reduced to twelve4 ,the workwomen were3--7#a7 ,the piqueuse2 7#b7 traceuse2 7#c7 rseleuse2 7#d7 remplisseuse2 7#e7 fondeuse2 7#f7 modeuse2 7#g7 brodeuse2 7#h7 bouleuse2 7#i7 rgaleuse2 7#aj7 assembleuse2 7#aa7 toucheuse2 7#ab7 brideuse2 7#ac7 boucleuse2 7#ad7 gazeuse2 7#ae7 mignonneuse2 7#af7 picoteuse2 7#ag7 affineuse2 7#ah7 affiquese4 #eee ,the origin of this name ,argentella is obscure1 but it was presumed to imply that the lace was worked in ,genoa or ,venice4 ,there is1 however1 no evidence of this type of lace being made there4 ,another theory is that ,argentella is an ,italianised title for the more delicate examples of point d',argentan4 ,the character of the lace and the style of the floral patterns worked upon mesh grounds are those of ,alenon laces4 ,in ,specimen #a1cgc-gd in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum collection the cordonnet is done in buttonhole stitches closely cast over a thread which outlines various forms in the design--a distinctive mark of point d',alenon4 ,and the hexagonal wheel device in this example is often to be seen introduced into flounces of point d',alenon1 of which other portions are composed of the ordinary ,alenon ground or rseau4--,a4 ,s4 ,cole4 ,fig4 #hh and ,plate ,,lvii4 #eef ,dictionnaire du ,citoyen1 ,paris1 #agfa4 #eeg ,madame ,despierres writes on this head that entries of point d',alenon occur as early as #affc3-- #affc1 #i juin--contrat entre ,georges ,rouillon1 ,greffier1 et ,marie ,leroy4444 #aijj liv4 gagnes par son industrie faire des ouvrages de point d',alenon4 #eeh ,inv4 de ,madame ,anne ,palatine1 ,princesse de ,cond4 ,see chap4 x4 note #dfh4 #eei ,in the ,inventory of the ,duc de ,penthivre1 #agch4 ,see chap4 xi4 #efj ,une coiffure de point d',alenon raiseau4--,inv4 de decs de ,mademoiselle de ,clermont1 #agda4 ,again1 #agdc1 ,inv4 de la ,duchesse de ,bourbon4 ,bib4 ,nat4 #efa ,among the objects of religious art exhibited in #ahfd at the ,general ,assembly of the ,catholics of ,belgium at ,malines was a voile de bndiction1 the handkerchief used to cover the ciborium1 of point d',alenon1 with figures of the ,virgin1 ,st4 ,catherine1 ,st4 ,ursula1 and ,st4 ,barbara4 ,it belonged to the ,church of ,st4 ,christopher at ,charleroi4 #efb ,sez has now no records of its manufacture4 #efc ,descr4 du ,dp4 de l',orne4 ,an ,,ix4 ,publie par ordre du ministre de l'intrieur4 #efd ,illustrated ,news1 ,march #bb1 #ahef4 #efe ,it only requires to compare ,figs4 #gd1 #ge1 #gf1 and #hj1 with ,figs4 #hb and #hc to see the marked difference in the character of the lace4 #eff ,sous ,louis ,,xiv4 il y avaient de magnifiques rinceaux1 guirlandes1 et cornes d'abondance d'o s'chappent de superbes fleurs4 ,sous ,louis ,,xv4 les fabricants changrent encore leurs dessins pour prendre les fleurs qui s'panouent et s'ensoulent capricieusement les unes aux autres4 ,le style de ,louis ,,xvi4 n'a rien de l'ampleur ni de l'lgance des styles prcdents4 ,les formes sont arrondies2 des guirlandes et des fleurettes sont la base des dessins de cette poque4 ,sous la rpublique et le premier empire1 les dessins deviennent raides 7,madame ,despierres47 #efg ,this effect is produced by varying the application of the two stitches used in making the flowers1 the toil1 which forms the close tissue1 and the grill1 the more open part of the pattern4 ,the system has been adopted in ,france1 ,belgium1 and ,england1 but with most success in ,france4 ,li boen citean de ,roem1 ,e la ,jovante de ,caem1 ,e de ,falaise e d',argentoen4 --,roman de ,rou4 #efi ,henry founded a chapel at ,argentan to ,st4 ,thomas of ,canterbury4 #egj ,the average size of a diagonal1 taken from angle to angle1 in an ,alenon or so-called ,argentan hexagon was about #a_/f of an inch1 and each side of the hexagon was about #a_/aj of an inch4 ,an idea of the minuteness of the work can be formed from the fact that a side of a hexagon would be overcast with some nine or ten buttonhole stitches 7,a4 ,s4 ,cole74 ,so little is the beautiful workmanship of this ground known or understood1 that the author has seen priceless flowers of ,argentan relentlessly cut out and transferred to bobbin net1 'to get rid of the ugly1 old1 coarse ground' 7,mrs4 ,palliser1 #ahfi74 #ega ,les trois sortes de brides comme champ sont excutes dans ces deux fabriques1 et les points ont t et sont encore faits par les mmes procds de fabrication1 et avec les mmes matires textiles1 writes ,madame ,despierres4 ,mrs4 ,palliser1 on the other hand1 was of opinion that the two manufactures were distinct1 though some lace-makers near ,lignres-la-,doucelle worked for both establishments4 ,alenon made the finest rseau2 ,argentan specially excelled in the bride4 ,the flowers of ,argentan were bolder and larger in pattern1 in higher relief1 heavier and coarser than those of ,alenon4 ,the toil was flatter and more compact4 ,the workmanship differed in character4 ,on the clear bride ground this lace was more effective than the minuter workmanship of ,alenon2 it more resembled the ,venetian4 ,indeed1 so close is its resemblance that many of the fine garnitures de robe1 aprons1 and tunics that have survived the revolutionary storm would be assigned to ,venice1 did not their pedigree prove them to be of the ,argentan fabric 7,mrs4 ,palliser1 #ahfi74 #egb ,letter of ,september #aith1 #agdd4 #egc ,burgoigne1 the first part of the dress for the head next the hair4--,mundus ,muliebris4 #afji4 ,burgoigin1 the part of the head-dress that covers up the head4--,ladies' ,dictionary4 #afid4 ,in ,farquhar's comedy of ,sir ,harry ,wildair1 #agjj1 ,parley1 when asked what he had been about1 answers1 ,sir1 ,i was coming to ,mademoiselle ,furbelow1 the ,french milliner1 for a new ,burgundy for my lady's head4 #egd ,the offenders1 manufacturers and workwomen1 incurred considerable fines4 #ege ,nov4 #abth1 #agde4 #egf ,in #agfe1 under the name of ,duponchel4 #egg #aggb4 ,un ajustement de point d',argentan-- ,les #f rangs manchettes4 #a_/c pour devant de gorge4 #d au4 #a_/c festonn des deux costs1 le fichu et une garniture de fichu de nuit #b1ejj livres4 #a au ruban de point d',argentan1 #ajj #age ---- ,une collerette de point d',argentan #cfj ---- --7,comptes de ,madame du ,barry47 #agha4 ,une nappe d'autel garnie d'une tres belle dentelle de point d',argentan4--,inv4 de l',eglise de ,st4 ,gervais4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,l4 #fed4 #aghi4 ,item1 un parement de robe consistant en garniture1 deux paires de manchettes1 et fichu1 le tout de point d',argentan4 7,dans la garderobe de ,madame47--,inv4 de decs de ,mgr4 de ,duc de ,duras4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1ddj4 #egh ,une coiffure bride picot complete4--,inv4 de decs de ,mademoiselle de ,clermont1 #agda4 #egi ,these details on the manufacture of ,argentan have been furnished from the archives of ,alenon through the kindness of ,m4 ,lon de la ,sicotire1 the learned archologist of the ,department of the ,orne 7,mrs4 ,palliser1 #ahfi74 #ehj ,embroidery has replaced this industry among the workers of the town and the hand-spinning of hemp among those of the country4 #eha ,lgende du point d',argentan1 ,m4 ,eugne de ,lonlay4 #ehb ,nouveau ,rglement ,gnral sur toutes sortes de ,marchandises et ,manufactures qui sont utiles et necessaires dans ce ,royaume1 etc41 par ,m4 le ,marquis de la ,gomberdire4 ,paris1 #afcd4 ,in #hvo4 #ehc ,m4 ,fournier says that ,france was at this time tributary to ,flanders for passemens de fil1 very fine and delicately worked4 ,laffemas1 in his ,rglement ,gnral pour dresser les ,manufactures du ,royaume1 #aeig1 estimates the annual cost of these passemens of every sort1 silk stockings1 etc41 at #hjj1jjj crowns4 ,montchrestien1 at above a million4 #ehd ,this was established by ,colbert1 and there they made1 as well as at ,aurillac1 the finest pillow lace in the style of point d',angleterre4 ,this manufacture was encouraged by the ,king and the ,court1 and its productions were among the choicest of the points de ,france4 #ehe ,youngest son of the ,comte d',harcourt4 #ehf ,vie de ,j4-,bap4 ,colbert4 7,printed in the ,archives ,curieuses47 #ehg ,livre commode ou les ,adienes de la ,ville de ,paris for #afib4 #ehh ,for the introduction of the gold point of ,spain into ,france1 see ,,spain4 ,the manufacture of gold lace in ,paris was1 however1 prior to ,colbert4 #agcb1 un bord de point d',espagne d'or de ,paris1 fonds de rseau4--,garderobe de ,s4 ,a4 ,s4 ,mgr4 le ,duc de ,penthivre4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #cij-a4 #ehi ,in ,statistique de la ,france1 #ahjj1 the finest silk lace is said to be made at ,fontenay1 ,puisieux1 ,morges1 and ,louvres-en-,parisis4 ,the coarse and common kinds at ,montmorency1 ,villiers-le-,bel1 ,sarcelles1 couen1 ,saint-,brice1 ,groslay1 ,gisors1 ,saint-,pierre-les-,champs1 ,etrepagny1 etc4 ,peuchet adds3 ,il s'y fait dans ,paris et ses environs une grande quantit de dentelles noires dont il se fait des expditions considrables4 ,it was this same black silk lace which raised to so high a reputation the fabrics of ,chantilly4 #eij ,inv4 de decs de la ,duchesse de ,modne4 #agfa4 #eia ,inv4 de decs du ,duc de ,duras4 #aghi4 #eib ,une fraise deux rangs de blonde tres fine1 grande hauteur1 #abj l4 ,une paire de sabots de la mme blonde1 #hd l4 ,un fichu en colonette la fraise garnie deux rangs d'une tres belle blonde fond d',alenon1 #abj l4 ,un pouff bord d'un pliss de blonde tournante fond d',alenon1 bouquets tres fins et des bouillons de mme blonde4 ,this wonderful coiffure being finished with ,un beau panache de quatre plumes couleurs impriales1 #ajh l4 #eic ,see preceding note4 #eid ,the bourgoin is formed of white1 stiffly-starched muslin1 covering a paste-board shape1 and rises to a great height above the head1 frequently diminishing in size towards the top1 where it finishes in a circular form4 ,two long lappets hang from either side towards the back1 composed often of the finest lace4 ,the bourgoins throughout ,normandy are not alike4--,mrs4 ,stothard's ,tour in ,normandy4 #eie ,this must have included ,honfleur and other surrounding localities4 ,by a paper on the lace trade 7,mm4 concernant le ,commerce des ,dentelles1 #agjd4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #ad1bid71 we find that the making of dentelles de bas prix1 employed at ,rouen1 ,dieppe1 ,le ,havre1 and throughout the ,pays de ,caux1 the ,bailliage of ,caen1 at ,lyons1 ,le ,puy1 and other parts of ,france1 one quarter of the population of all classes and ages from six to seventy years4 ,these laces were all made of ,haarlem thread4 ,see ,,holland4 ,the lace-makers of ,havre1 writes ,peuchet1 work both in black and white points1 from #e sous to #cj francs the ell4 ,they are all employed by a certain number of dealers1 who purchase the produce of their pillows4 ,much is transported to foreign countries1 even to the ,east ,indies1 the ,southern ,seas1 and the islands of ,america4 #eif ,dictionnaire ,gographique4 ,t4 ,corneille4 #agjg4 #eig ,gravures de ,modes4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,m41 #hae-bc4 #eih #afhc4 ,deux housses de toille pique avec dentelle du ,havre deux camisolles de pareille toille et de dentelle du ,havre4--,inv4 fait aprs le decedz de ,monseigneur ,colbert4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,suite de ,mortemart1 #cd4 #eii #afea4 ,un tour d'autel de dentelle du ,havre4--,inv4 des meubles de la ,sacristie de l',oratoire de ,jesus1 ,paris4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,f4 #hfba4 #afha4 ,une chemisette de toile de ,marseille picque garnye de dentelle du ,havre4--,inv4 d',anne d',escoubleau de ,sourdis1 veuve de ,franois de ,simiane4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,m4 ,m4 #hjb4 #fjj ,les ouvriers n'tant apparemment rappels par aucune possession dans cette ville1 lorsqu'elle fut rtablie1 ils s'y sont tablis et ont transmis leur travail la postrit4--,peuchet4 #fja ,point de ,dieppe appears among the already-quoted lace boxes of #afhh4 #fjb ,mmoires pour servir l',histoire de la ,ville de ,dieppe1 composs en l'anne #agfa1 par ,michel-,claude ,gurbert4 ,p4 #ii4 #fjc ,mmoires ,chronologiques pour servir l',histoire de ,dieppe1 par ,m4 ,desmarquets4 #aghe4 #fjd ,notices sur ,dieppe1 ,arques1 etc41 par ,p4 ,j4 ,feret4 #ahbd4 #fje ,peuchet1 of ,dieppe1 says3 ,on ne fait pas la dentelle en roulant les fuseaux sur le coussin1 mais en l'y jetant4 #fjf ,almanach de ,dieppe pour #ahdg4 ,the ,author has to express her thanks to ,soeur ,hubert1 of the cole d',apprentissage de ,dentelle1 and ,m4 ,a4 ,morin1 ,librarian at ,dieppe1 for their communications4 #fjg ,arch4 ,nat4 ,x4 #aj1jhf4 #fjh ,the silk came from ,nankin by way of ,london or the ,east1 the black silk called 'grenadine' was dyed and prepared at ,lyons1 the thread was from ,haarlem4--,roland de la ,platire4 #fji ,page #bac4 #faj ,letter from ,edgar ,mc,culloch1 ,esq41 ,guernsey4 #faa ,blondes appear also to have been made at ,le ,mans3-- ,cette manufacture qui etoit autrefois entretenue l'hpital du ,mans1 lui rapportoit un benefice de #d1jjj #e1jjj fr4 ,elle est bien tombe par la dispersion des anciennes soeurs hospitalires4--,stat4 du ,dp4 de la ,sarthe1 par le ,citoyen ,l4-,m4 ,auvray4 ,an ,x4 #fab ,the handkerchief of ,paris net mentioned by ,goldsmith4 #fac ,in the ,dp4 du ,nord1 by ,jean-,ph4 ,briatte4 ,its fall was owing to the bad faith of imitators1 who substituted a single thread of bad quality for the double twisted thread of the country4--,dieudonn1 ,statistique de ,dp4 du ,nord4 ,in the ,mercure ,galant for ,june1 #afhg1 we find the ladies wear cornettes la jardinire de ,marly4 #fad ,l',industrie ,franaise depuis la ,rvolution de ,fvrier et l',exposition de #ahdh1 par ,m4 ,a4 ,audiganne4 ,m4 ,aubry thus divides the lace-makers of ,normandy3-- ,department of ,calvados-- ,arrondissement of ,caen #be1jjj ,arr4 of ,bayeux #ae1jjj ,arr4 of ,pont-l',evque1 ,falaise199 and ,lisieux #aj1jjj ,departments of ,la ,manche and ,seine-,infrieure #aj1jjj ------ #fj1jjj ,the women earn from #ej sous to #be sous a day1 an improvement on the wages of the last century1 which1 in the time of ,arthur ,young1 seldom amounted to #bd sous4 ,their products are estimated at from #h to #aj millions of francs 7#cbj1jjj to #djj1jjj74 99 ,falaise1 dentelles faon de ,dieppe4--,peuchet4 #fae ,he had run away with the rich heiress of ,coadelan4 #faf ,chants populaires de la ,bretagne1 par ,th4 ,hersart de la ,villemarqu4 #fag ,the bringing home of the wedding dress is an event of solemn importance4 ,the family alone are admitted to see it1 and each of them sprinkles the orange blossoms with which it is trimmed with holy water placed at the foot of the bed whereon the dress is laid1 and offers up a prayer for the future welfare of the wearer4 #fah ,french ,hainault1 ,french ,flanders and ,cambrsis 7the present ,dp4 du ,nord71 with ,artois1 were conquests of ,louis ,,xiii4 and ,louis ,,xiv41 confirmed to ,france by the treaties of ,aix-la-,chapelle 7#affh7 and ,nimeguen 7#afgh74 #fai ,photographed in the ,album d',archologie ,religieuse4 ,it is supposed to have been made towards the end of the seventeenth century4 #fbj ,founded #afcj4 #fba #aggb4 #ae aunes #c-afmes jabot haut de vraie ,valencienne1 #c1gjf livres #ag sous2 and many other similar entries4 #fbb #e_/h ,btarde dito bordure1 #fj ll41 #cg ll4 #aj s4--,comptes de ,madame du ,barry4 #fbc ,statistique du ,dp4 du ,nord1 par ,m4 ,dieudonn1 ,prfet en #ahjd4 #fbd ,among the various fabrics having the same process of manufacture1 there is not one which produces exactly the same style of lace4 ,the same pattern1 with the same material1 whether executed in ,belgium1 ,saxony1 ,lille1 ,arras1 ,mirecourt1 or ,le ,puy1 will always bear the stamp of the place where it is made4 ,it has never been possible to transfer any kind of manufacture from one city to another without there being a marked difference between the productions4--,aubry4 ,after the ,french ,revolution1 when so many lace-makers fled to ,belgium1 ,alost1 ,ypres1 ,bruges1 ,ghent1 ,menin1 and ,courtrai became the centres of this industry1 and the lace produced in each town has a distinctive feature in the ground4 ,that made in ,ghent is square-meshed1 the bobbins being twisted two and a half times4 ,at ,ypres1 which makes a better quality of ,valenciennes1 the ground is also square-meshed1 but the bobbins are twisted four times4 ,in ,courtrai and ,menin the grounds are twisted three and a half times1 and in ,bruges1 where the ground has a circular mesh1 the bobbins are twisted three times4 #fbe ,in the already quoted ,etat d'un ,trousseau1 #agga1 among the necessary articles are enumerated3 ,une coffure1 tour de gorge et le fichu pliss de vraie ,valencienne4 ,the trimming of one of ,madame du ,barry's pillowcases cost #dhg fr42 her lappets1 #a1jcj4 ,the ruffles of the ,duchesse de ,modne and ,mademoiselle de ,charollais are valued at #bjj livres the pair4 ,du ,barry1 more extravagant1 gives #ggj for hers4 #fbf #b barbes et rayon de vraie valencienne2 #c au4 collet grande hauteur2 #d au4 grand jabot2 le tout de la mme main1 de #b1djj livres4--,comptes de ,madame du ,barry4 #aggj4 #fbg ,arthur ,young1 in #aghh1 says of ,valenciennes3 ,laces of #cj to #dj lines' breadth for gentlemen's ruffles is from #afj to #baf livres 7#i #is47 an ell4 ,the quantity for a lady's headdress from #a1jjj to #bd1jjj livres4 ,the women gain from #bj to #cj sous a day4 #c1fjj persons are employed at ,valenciennes1 and are an object of #dej1jjj livres1 of which the flax is not more than #a_/cj4 ,the thread costs from #bd to #gjj livres the pound4 #fbh ,the barbes pleines consisted of a pair of lappets from #c to #e inches wide each1 and half an ell 7#bj inches7 long1 with a double pattern of sprigged flowers and rounded at the ends4 ,a narrow lace #a ell long1 called the ,papillon1 with the bande or passe1 and the fond de bonnet1 completed the suit4 #fbi ,the fault of the old ,valenciennes lace is its colour1 never of a clear white1 but inclining to a reddish cast4 #fcj ,les dentelires avaient adopt un par-dessus de calamande raye1 un bonniquet de toile fine pliss petits canons4 ,une mdaille d'argent1 pendue au cou par un petit liser noir1 compltait leur costume1 qui est arriv jusqu' nous2 car nous l'avons vu1 il n'y a pas trente ans4--,hist4 de ,lille1 par ,v4 ,derode4 ,paris et ,lille1 #ahdh4 #fca ,mmoires sur l',intendance de ,flandre4--,,ms4 ,bib4 de ,lille4 #fcb ,period of the peace of ,utrecht when ,lille1 which had been retaken by ,prince ,eugne1 was again restored to ,france4 #fcc ,histoire ,populaire de ,lille4 ,henri ,brunet4 ,lille1 #ahdh2 and ,histoire de ,lille4 ,v4 ,derode4 #fcd ,report of the ,commissioners for #ahea4 #fce ,as late as #agfa ,lille was considered as foreign with respect to ,france1 and her laces made to pay duty according to the tariff of #affd4 ,in #agjh 7#cast of ,july7 we have an ,arrest du ,conseil d',estat du ,roy1 relative to the seizure of seventeen cartons of lace belonging to one ,mathieu1 marchand l',isle4 ,mathieu1 in defence1 pretends that les dentelles avoient est fabriques ,haluin 7near ,lille71 terre de la domination de ,sa ,majest4--,arch4 ,nat4 ,coll4 ,rondonneau4 #fcf ,see ,,flanders 7,,west71 treille4 #fcg ,in #aghi1 thread was #aib francs the kilogramme4 #fch ,describing her trousseau1 every article of which was trimmed with ,angleterre1 ,malines1 or ,valenciennes1 she adds3 ,a cette poque 7#ahjj71 on ignorait mme l'existence du tulle1 les seules dentelles communes que l'on connt taient les dentelles de ,lille et d',arras1 qui n'taient portes que par les femmes les plus ordinaires4--,mm4 de ,madame la ,duchesse d',abrants4 ,t4 iii4 ,certainly the laces of ,lille and ,arras never appear in the inventories of the grandes dames of the last century4 #fci ,dieudonn4 #fdj ,peuchet states much fausse ,valenciennes1 trs rapproche de la vraie1 to have been fabricated in the hospital at ,lille1 in which institution there were1 in #agbc1 #gjj lace-workers4 #fda ,a piece of ,lille lace contains from #aj to #ab ells4 #fdb ,l',abbaye du ,vivier1 etablie dans la ville d',arras1 ,pome par le ,pre ,dom ,martin du ,buisson1 in ,mmoires et ,pices pour servir a l',histoire de la ,ville d',arras4--,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss41 ,fonds ,franois1 #h1icf4 #fdc ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss41 ,fonds ,franois1 #h1icf4 #fdd ,we find in the ,colbert ,correspondence 7#affi71 the directors of the ,general hospital at ,arras had enticed lace-workers of point de ,france1 with a view to establish the manufacture in their hospital1 but the jealousy of the other cities threatening to overthrow their commerce1 they wrote to ,colbert for protection4 #fde ,gt4 ,ward4 ,acc4 ,geo4 ,i4 #agad-ae 7,p4 ,r4 ,o471 and ,acc4 of ,john1 ,duke of ,montagu1 master of the ,great ,wardrobe1 touching the expenses of the funeral of ,queen ,anne and the coronation of ,george ,i4 7,p4,r4,o47 ,in #agfa an ,act was passed against its being counterfeited1 and a vendor of ,orrice lace 7counterfeit1 we suppose7 forfeits her goods4 #fdf ,statistique des ,gens de ,lettres4 #ahjh4 ,herbin4 ,t4 ii4 #fdg ,a museum of lace has been established at ,bailleul4 #fdh ,in #aghh1 ,bailleul1 ,cassel1 and the district of ,hazebrouck1 had #acea lace-makers4 ,in #ahjb the number had diminished2 but it has since gradually increased4 ,in #ahcj there were #b1ejj4 ,in #ahea there were already #h1jjj1 dispersed over twenty communes4 #fdi ,haute-,loire1 ,cantal1 ,puy-de-,dme1 and ,loire4 #fej #afdj4 #fea #ahcc and #ahdh4 #feb ,by ,mdecis4 #fec ,they represent to the king that the laces of the diocse du ,puy1 du ,vlay et de l',auvergne1 dont il se faisait un commerce trs considrable dans les pays trangers1 par les ports de ,bordeaux1 ,la ,rochelle et ,nantes1 ought not to pay the import duties held by the cinq grosses fermes4--,arrest du ,conseil d',estat du ,roy1 #f ,august1 #agjg4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,coll4 ,rond4 ,they ended by obtaining a duty of five sous per lb41 instead of the #ej livres paid by ,flanders and ,england1 or the ten livres by the laces of ,comt1 ,lige1 and ,lorraine4 #fed #agae and #agaf4 #fee ,see ,,milan4 #fef ,roland de la ,platire4 #feg ,three-fourths were consumed in ,europe in time of peace3--,sardinia took #abj1jjj francs1 purchased by the merchants of ,turin1 once a year1 and then distributed through the country3 ,florence and ,spain1 each #bjj1jjj2 ,guyenne exported by the merchants of ,bordeaux #bjj1jjj2 #ejj1jjj went to the ,spanish ,indies4 ,the rest was sold in ,france by means of colporteurs4--,peuchet4 #feh ,in ,auvergne lace has preserved its ancient names of passement and pointes1 the latter applied especially to needle-made lace4 ,it has always retained its celebrity for passements or guipures made in bands4 ,the simplicity of life in the mountains has doubtless been a factor in the unbroken continuity of the lace-trade4 #fei ,le ,puy in recent years has named some of its coarse patterns guipure de ,cluny1 after the museum in ,paris--a purely fanciful name4 #ffj ,savinire d',alquie4 #ffa ,savary4 ,point d',aurillac is mentioned in the ,rvolte des ,passemens4 #ffb ,histoire du point d' ,alenon1 ,madame ,despierres4 #ffc ,voile de toile d'argent1 garni de grandes dentelles d'or et argent fin1 donn en #agaa pour envelopper le chef de ,s4 ,gaudence4--,inventaire du ,monastre des ,bndictines de ,st4 ,aligre4 #ffd ,in the convents are constantly noted down point d',espagne d'or et argent fin1 while in the cathedral of ,clermont the chapter contented itself with dentelles d'or et argent faux4 #ffe #aggc4 #f au4 de grande entoilage de belle blonde poix4 #fff #af au4 entoilage mouches #aa l41 #agfa4--;,comptes de ,madame du ,barry4 #ffg #g au4 de tulle pour hausser les manchettes1 #i l41 #fc l4--#aggj4 ,cptes4 de ,madame du ,barry4 #ffh ,souvenirs de la ,marquise de ,crquy4 #ffi ,in an old geography we find1 ,tulle1 ,tuille three hundred years ago4 ,the word ,tule or ,tuly occurs in an ,english inventory of #acae1 and again1 in ,sir ,gawayn and the ,green ,knight2 but in both cases the word seems not to indicate a stuff but rather a locality1 probably ,toulouse4--,francisque ,michel4 ,in ,skelton's ,garland of ,lawrell1 we find1 ,a skein of tewly silk2 which his commentator1 the ,rev4 ,a4 ,dyce1 considers to be dyed of a red colour4 #fgj ,as early as #afae there appears to have been a traffic with ,italy in laces1 the painter ,claude ,lorraine being taken to ,italy in that year by his uncle1 a carrier and dealer in laces4 #fga ,neufchteau4 #fgb ,the trader who purchases the lace is called peussemotier4 #fgc ,the ,lorraine laces could only enter ,france by the bureau of ,chaumont1 nor could they leave the country without a formal permit delivered at ,monthureux-le-,sec4--,arch4 ,nat41 ,coll4 ,rondonneau4 #fgd ,in a catalogue of the collection of objects of religious art1 exhibited at ,mechlin in #ahfd1 we find noticed1 ,dentelle pour rochet1 point de ,nancy1 from the church of ,st4 ,charles at ,antwerp1 together with various voiles de bndiction1 laces for rochets and altar-cloths1 of point de ,paris4 #fge ,the ,tableau ,statistique du ,dp4 des ,vosges1 by ,citoyen ,desgoulles1 ,an ,x1 says3 ,mirecourt is celebrated for its lace fabrics4 ,there are twenty lace merchants2 but the workers are not attached to any particular house4 ,they buy their own thread1 make the lace1 and bring it to the merchants of ,mirecourt to purchase4 ,the women follow this occupation when not engaged in field work2 but they only earn from #be to #dj centimes a day4 ,before the ,revolution1 #g_/h of the coarse lace was exported to ,germany towards ,swabia4 ,of the fine qualities1 ,france consumed #b_/c4 ,the remainder went to the colonies4 #fgf ,so are those of ,courseulles 7,calvados74 #fgg ,savary4 ,sedan was ceded to ,louis ,,xiii4 in #afdb4 #fgh ,eidem pro #f divit ,sedan et ,italie colaris opere sciss et pro #fb purles opere acuo pro #f par manic lintear eisdem1 #aaf #fs4--,gt4 ,ward4 ,acc4 ,car4 ,i41 ix4 to xi4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #fgi ,eidem pro #f divit ,pultenarian ,sedan de opere sciss colaris et pro #gb purles divit opere acuo pro manic lintear eisdem1 #ajf #afs4--,gt4 ,ward4 ,acc4 ,car4 ,i41 xi4 to xii4 #fhj ,in #agjj there were several lace manufacturers at ,charleville1 the principal of whom was named ,vigoureux4--,hist4 de ,charleville4 ,charleville1 #ahed4 #fha ,savary4 ,ed4 #agbf4 #fhb ,description de la ,france4 ,ed4 #ageb4 #fhc ,savary4 #fhd ,john ,roberts1 of ,burgundy1 eight years in ,england1 a knitter of knotted wool4 ,peter de ,grue1 ,burgundian1 knitter of cauls and sleeves4 ,callys de ,hove1 maker of lace1 and ,jane his wife1 born in ,burgundy4--,state ,papers1 ,dom41 ,eliz4 ,vol4 #hd4 ,p4,r4,o4 #fhe ,m4 ,joseph ,garnier1 the learned ,archiviste of ,dijon1 informed ,mrs4 ,palliser that les archives de l'hospice ,sainte-,anne n'ont conserv aucune trace de la manufacture de dentelles qui y fut tablie4 ,tout ce qu'on sait1 c'est qu'elle tait sous la direction d'un sieur ,helling1 et qu'on y fabriquait le point d',alenon4 #fhf ,descr4 du ,dp4 de la ,vienne1 par le ,citoyen ,cochon4 ,an ,x4 #fhg ,ce n'est pas une grande chose que la manufacture de points qui est tablie dans l'hpital de ,bourdeaux4--,savary4 ,edit4 #agbf4 #fhh ,table of the ,number of ,lace-workers in ,france in #ahea4 7,from ,m4 ,aubry47 ,manufacture of ,chantilly and ,alenon3-- ,orne ,seine-et-,oise ,eure #ab1ejj ,seine-et-,marne ,oise ,manufacture of ,lille1 ,arras1 and ,bailleul3-- ,nord ,pas-de-,calais #ah1jjj ,manufacture of ,normandy1 ,caen1 and ,bayeux3-- ,calvados ,manche #ee1jjj ,seine-,infrieure ,manufacture of ,lorraine1 ,mirecourt3-- ,vosges ,meurthe #bb1jjj ,manufacture of ,auvergne1 ,le ,puy3-- ,cantal ,haute ,loire #acj1jjj ,loire ,puy-de-,dme ,application-work at ,paris and ,lace-makers #b1ejj ------- ,total #bdj1jjj ------- ,in his ,report on the ,universal ,exhibition of #ahfg1 ,m4 ,aubry estimates the number at #bjj1jjj--their average wages from #a to #a francs a day of ten hours' labour2 some earn as much as #c francs4 ,almost all work at home1 combining the work of the pillow with their agricultural and household occupations4 ,lace schools are being founded throughout the northern lace departments of ,france1 and prizes and every kind of encouragement given to the pupils by the ,empress1 as well as by public authorities and private individuals4 #fhi ,in the ,census of #aega1 giving the names of all strangers in the city of ,london1 we find mention but of one ,dutchman1 ,richard ,thomas1 a worker of billament lace4 #fij ,in #afhi appears an ,arrest du ,roi qui ordonne l'excution d'une sentence du matre de poste de ,rouen1 portant confiscation des dentelles venant d',amsterdam4--,arch4 ,nat4 ,coll4 ,rondonneau4 #fia #afhe4 #fib ,we have frequent mention of dentelle la reine previous to its introduction into ,holland4 #afai4 ,plus une aulne ung tiers de dentelle la reyne4--,trsorerie de ,madame1 ,soeur de ,roi4 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #bcd4 #afgh4 ,les dames mettent ordinairement deux cornettes de ,point la ,reyne ou de soie crue1 rarement de ,point de ,france1 parce que le point clair sied mieux au visage4--,mercure ,galant4 #afhc4 ,deux ,aubes de toille demie holande garnis de point la ,reyne4--,inv4 fait apres le decedz de ,mgr4 ,colbert4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,suite de ,mortemart1 #cd4 #fic ,c4 ,weisse4 ,history of the ,french ,protestant ,refugees from the ,edict of ,nantes4 ,edinburgh1 #ahed4 #fid ,grandson of ,simon ,chtelain4 ,see ,chap4 ,,vi4 #fie ,in the paper already referred to 7see ,,normandy7 on the lace trade1 in #agjd1 it is stated the ,flemish laces called dentelles de haut prix are made of ,lille1 ,mons and ,mechlin thread1 sent to bleach at ,haarlem1 as they know not how to bleach them elsewhere4 ,the dentelles de bas prix of ,normandy and other parts of ,france being made entirely of the cheaper thread of ,haarlem itself1 an ,act1 then just passed1 excluding the ,haarlem thread1 would1 if carried out1 annihilate this branch of industry in ,france4--,commerce des ,dentelles de ,fil4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #ad1bid4 #fif ,and4 ,yarranton4 #afgg4 #fig ,flax is improved by age4 ,the saying was1 ',wool may be kept to dust1 flax to silk4' ,i have seen flax twenty years old as fine as a hair4--,ibid4 #fih ,commerce de la ,hollande4 #agfh4 #fii ,edinburgh ,amusement4 #gjj ,six ,weeks in the ,court and ,country of ,france4 #afia4 #gja ,treillis d',allemagne is early mentioned in the ,french inventories3-- #aedc4 ,pour une aulne deux tiers trillist d',allemagne4--,argenterie de la ,reine 7,elonore d',autriche74 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #ajd4 #aeeg4 ,pour une aulne de treilliz noir d',allemagne pour garnir la robbe de damars noir ou il y a de la bizette4--,comptes de l',argentier du ,roi 7,henry ,,ii474 ,arch4 ,nat4 ,k4 ,k4 #ajf4 #gjb ,at a meeting of the ,society of ,polite ,arts1 premiums were given to a specimen of a new invention imitating ,dresden work4 ,it is done with such success as to imitate all the various stitches of which ,dresden work is composed1 with such ingenuity as to surpass the finest performance with the needle4 ,this specimen1 consisting of a cap and a piece for a long apron1 the apron1 valued by the inventress at #b #bs41 was declared by the judges worth #ef4--;,annual ,register4 #agfb4 #gjc ,smash go the glasses1 aboard pours the wine on circling laces1 ,dresden aprons1 silvered silks1 and rich brocades4 ,and again1 ,your points of ,spain1 your ruffles of ,dresden4--,fool of ,quality4 #agff4 #gjd ,caledonian ,mercury4 #agfj4 #gje ,letter from ,koestritz4 #ahfc4 #gjf ,in #agac4 #gjg ,weisse4 #gjh ,dated ,oct4 #bi1 #afhe4 #gji ,anderson4 #gaj ,arch4 ,nat4 ,coll4 ,rondonneau4 #gaa ,commissions and ,privileges granted by ,charles ,i41 ,landgrave of ,hesse1 to the ,french ,protestants1 dated ,cassel1 ,dec4 #ab1 #afhe4 #gab ,peuchet4 #gac ,anderson4 #gad ,la ,france ,protestante1 par ,m4 ,m4 ,haag4 ,paris #ahdf-ei4 #gae ,item4 ,dix carrez de tapisserye a poinctz de ,hongrye d'or1 d'argent et soye de differends patrons4--#afcb4 ,inv4 aprs le decs du ,marchal de ,marillac4 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,,mss4 ,f4 ,fr4 #aa1dbd4 #gaf ,hungary was so styled in the seventeenth century4 ,in a ,relation of the most famous ,kingdoms and ,common ,weales through the ,world1 ,london1 #afjh1 we find ,hungerland4 #gag ,city ,madam4 ,massinger4 #gah ,pictures of ,german ,life in the ,fifteenth1 ,sixteenth1 and ,seventeenth ,centuries1 by ,gustaf ,freytag4 #gai ,merveilleux ,amusements des ,bains de ,bade4 ,londres1 #agci4 #gbj ,bishop of ,salisbury4 ,letters4 #agdh-i4 #gba ,modelbuch in ,kupfen gemacht4 ,nrnberg1 #afja4 #gbb ,poppenreuth is about a ,german mile from ,nuremberg4 #gbc ,austria4--,report of the ,international ,exhibition of #ahfb4 #gbd ,as quoted in ,lefbure's ,embroidery and ,lace4 #gbe ,haag4 ,la ,france ,protestante4 #gbf ,the ,neufchtel trade extended through the ,jura range from the valley of ,lake ,joux 7,vaud7 to ,porentruy1 near ,ble4 #gbg ,statistique de la ,suisse4 ,picot1 de ,genve4 #ahai4 #gbh ,a curious pattern-book has been sent to us1 belonging to the ,antiquarian ,society of ,zurich1 through the kindness of its president1 ,dr4 ,ferd4 ,keller4 ,it contains specimens of a variety of narrow braids and edgings of a kind of knotted work1 but only a few open-work edgings that could be called lace4 #gbi ,on her marriage1 #aeae4 #gcj #afai4 ,sept4 #aa4 ,paid for a lace1 #fc rixd4 #aa skillings4 #afbj4 ,oct4 #aa4 ,paid to a female lace-worker1 #bh rixd4 ,nov4 #d4 ,paid #aj rixd4 to a female lace-worker who received her dismissal4 ,nov4 #aa4 ,paid #ga specie dollars to a lace-seller for lace for the use of the children4 ,paid #cc specie dollars and #ah skill4 ,lubec money1 to the same man for lace and cambric4 #afbe4 ,may #ai4 ,paid #ba rixd4 for lace4 ,dec4 #bj4 ,paid #be specie dollars #ae skill4 ,lubec money1 for taffetas and lace4 #gca #afci4 #gcb ,rawert's ,report upon the ,industry in the ,kingdom of ,denmark4 #ahdh4 #gcc ,the ,great ,recess4 #gcd ,two-thirds of a yard4 #gce ,dated #afdc4 #gcf ,tnder lace1 fine and middling1 made in the districts of ,lygum ,kloster1 keeps all the peasant girls employed4 ,thereof is exported to the ,german markets and the ,baltic1 it is supposed1 for more than #ajj1jjj rixdollars 7#aa1aaj71 and the fine thread must be had from the ,netherlands1 and sometimes costs #ajj rixdollars per lb4--,pontoppidan4 ,economical ,balance4 #agei4 #gcg ,in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum collection1 ,denmark is represented by a few skilful embroideries done on and with fine linen1 muslin and suchlike1 which are somewhat similar in appearance to lace fabrics of ,mechlin design4--7,a4 ,s4 ,cole47 #gch ,the lace fabric in ,north ,sleswick in #ahdj was divided into two districts--that of ,tnder and ,lygum ,kloster on the western coasts1 and that of ,haderslaben and ,apenraade on the east4 ,the quality of the lace from these last localities is so bad that no ,copenhagen dealers will have it in their shops4--,report of the ,royal ,sleswick-,holstein ,government4 #ahdj4 #gci ,mr4 ,jens ,wulff1 an eminent lace-dealer1 ,knight of the ,danebrog1 who has made great exertions to revive the lace industry in ,denmark4 #gdj ,tnder lace was celebrated for its durability1 the best flax or silk thread only being used4 #gda ,a lace-maker earns from #c;d4 to #d;d4 per day of sixteen hours4--,rawert's ,report4 #ahdh4 #gdb ,the ,tnder lace-traders enjoy the privilege of offering their wares for sale all over ,denmark without a license 7concession71 a privilege extended to no other industry4 #gdc ,the early perfection of ,bridget herself in this employment1 if we may credit the chronicle of the ,abbess ,margaretha1 #addj-df1 may be ascribed to a miraculous origin4 ,when1 at the age of twelve1 she was employed at her knitted lace-work1 a fear came over her that she should not finish her work creditably to herself1 and in her anxiety she raised her heart above4 ,as her aunt came into the chamber she beheld an unknown maiden sitting opposite to her niece1 and aiding her in her task2 she vanished immediately1 and when the aunt asked ,bridget who had helped her she know nothing about it1 and assured her relation she had seen no one4 ,all were astonished at the fineness and perfection of the work1 and kept the lace as of miraculous origin4 #gdd ,wadstena ,past and ,present 7,frr och ,nu74 #gde ,the letter is dated ,march #bjth1 #aedd4 #gdf ,in the detailed account of the trousseau furnished to his daughter1 there is no mention of lace2 but the author of ,one ,year in ,sweden has seen the body of his little granddaughter1 the ,princess ,isabella1 daughter of ,john ,,iii41 as it lies in the vault of ,strengns1 the child's dress and shoes literally covered with gold and silver lace of a ,gothic pattern1 fresh and untarnished as though made yesterday4 #gdg ,in the ,victoria and ,albert ,museum there is a collection of ,norwegian cut-work of the eighteenth century4 #gdh ,weber4 ,bilberbuch4 ,leipzig1 #agdf4 ,handbok for unga ,fruntimmer1 by ,ekenmark4 ,stockholm1 #ahbf-bh4 #gdi ,some are twice the width of ,fig4 #aag4 #gej ,for this information1 with a collection of specimens1 the author has to thank ,madame ,petre of ,gefle4 #gea ,the ,russian bobbins are interesting by reason of their archaic simplicity4 ,lacking any trace of decoration1 whether suggested by sentimental fancy or artistic taste1 they are purely utilitarian1 mere sticks of wood1 more or less straight and smooth1 and six or seven inches long4 #geb ,a dept has been opened in ,london1 where ,russian laces and embroidery of all kinds are shown4 #gec ,rot4 ,parl4 #cg ,edw4 ,,iii4 ,printed4 ,p4 #bgh1 ,col4 #b1 ,no4 #bf4 #ged ,see her monument in ,westminster ,abbey4--,sandford's ,genealogical ,history4 #gee ,blanche1 ,duchess of ,lancaster1 wife of ,john of ,gaunt1 wears a quilted silk cap with a three-pointed border of broad lace network4 7,sandford4 ,st4 ,paul's monument1 after ,dugdale47 ,elizabeth1 ,duchess of ,exeter1 died #adbe 7,sandford1 p4 #bei71 wore also a caul of network with a needlework edging4 #gef ,in the ,statute #b ,rich4 ,,ii4 #acgh1 merchant strangers are allowed to sell in gross and in retail gold wire or silver wire and other such small ware4 ,neither in this nor in the ,treaty #ac ,rich4 ,,ii4 #acij1 between ,england1 the ,count of ,flanders1 and les bonnes ,gentz des ,trois bonnes villes de ,flandres ,gand1 ,brugges et ,ipre 7see ,rymer71 is there any mention of lace1 which1 even if fabricated1 was of too little importance as an article of commerce to deserve mention save as other small wares4 #geg ,pins not yet being in common use1 any lace would be called work of the needle4 #geh #c ,edw4 ,,iv41 cap4 iv4 #gei #adfc4 ,john ,barett bequeaths to ',my ,lady ,walgrave1 my musk ball of gold with ple and lace4 ',item1 to ,john ,eden1 my o gr4 of tawny silk with poynts of needle work--opus punctatum4'--,bury ,wills and ,inventories4 #gfj ,bib4 ,harl4 #b1cbj4 #gfa ,such as ,lace ,bascon1 ,lace endented1 ,lace bordred on both syde1 yn o syde1 pykke ,lace bordred1 ,lace ,condrak1 ,lace ,dawns1 ,lace ,piol1 ,lace covert1 ,lace coverte doble1 ,lace compon coverte1 ,lace maskel1 ,lace cheyne brode1 ,las ,cheveron1 ,lace ,ound1 ,grene dorge1 ,lace for ,hattys1 etc4 ,another ,,ms4 of directions for making these same named laces is in the possession of the ,vicar of ,ipsden1 ,oxfordshire1 and has been examined by the author through the kindness of ,mr4 ,w4 ,twopenny4 #gfb ,bows1 loops4 #gfc ,additional ,,mss4 ,no4 #f1bic1 small quarto1 ff4 #ch4 ,it contains instructions for making various laces1 letters and edges1 such as diamond stiff1 fly1 cross1 long ,s1 figure of #h1 spider1 hart1 etc41 and at the end3-- ,heare may you see in ,letters ,new ,the ,love of her that honoreth you4 ,my love is this1 ,presented is ,the ,love ,i owe ,i cannot showe1 ,the fall of ,kings ,confusion bringes ,not the vallyou but the ,love ,when this you see ,remember me4 ,in the ,british ,museum 7,lansdowne ,roll1 ,no4 #bb7 is a third ,,ms4 on the same subject1 a parchment roll written about the time of ,charles ,i41 containing rules and directions for executing various kinds of sampler-work1 to be wrought in letters1 etc41 by means of coloured strings or bows4 ,it has a sort of title in these words1 ,to know the use of this ,booke it is two folkes worke1 meaning that the works are to be done by two persons4 ,probably of this work was the ,brede 7braid7 of divers colours1 woven by ,four ,ladies1 the subject of some verses by ,waller beginning3-- ,twice twenty slender ,virgins' ,fingers twine ,this curious web1 where all their fancies shine4 ,as ,nature them1 so they this shade have wrought1 ,soft as their ,hands1 and various as their ,thoughts1 etc4 #gfd #a ,rich4 ,,iii4 #adhc4 ,act ,,xii4 #gfe ,privy ,purse ,expenses of ,elizabeth of ,york1 and ,wardrobe ,accounts of ,king ,edward ,,iv41 by ,sir ,h4 ,nicolas4 #gff #a ,rich4 ,,iii4 renews #c ,edw4 ,,iv4 for ten years1 and that of ,richard is continued by #ai ,henry ,,vii4 for twenty years more4 #gfg #d ,hen4 ,,vii4 #adhh-i4 #gfh ,p4,r4,o4 ,the same ,warrant contains an order to deliver for the use and wearing of our right dere daughter the ,lady ,mary1 together with a black velvet gown1 scarlet petticoat1 etc41 a nounce of lace for her kyrtel1 and a thousand pynnes4 #gfi ,in the list of the late ,king ,henry's plate1 made #aedc1 we have some curious entries1 in which the term lace appears3-- ,item1 oone picture of a woman made of erthe with a carnation ,roobe knitt with a knott in the lefte shoulder and bare hedid with her heere rowlid up with a white lace sett in a boxe of wodde4 ,item1 oone picture of a woman made of erthe with a carnacon garment after the ,inglishe tyer and bareheddid with her heare rowled up with a white lace sett in a boxe of wodde4--,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #ggj #ai ,hen4 ,,vii4 #aejd4 #gga ,sir ,h4 ,nicolas4 #ggb ,statute #a ,hen4 ,,viii4 #aeji-aj4 ,an act agaynst wearing of costly ,apparell1 and again1 #f ,hen4 ,,viii4 #aead-ae4 ,gard1 to trim with lace4--,cotgrave4 ,no less than crimson velvet did him grace1 ,all garded and regarded with gold lace4--,samuel ,rowlands1 ,a ,pair of ,spy-,knaves4 ,i do forsake these 'broidered gardes1 ,and all the fashions new4--,the ,queen in ,king ,cambisis1 circ4 #afae4 #ggd ,under forfeiture of the same shirt and a fine of #dj shillings4 #gge #g ,hen4 ,,viii4 #aeae-af4--,thacte of ,apparell4 #ggf #bd ,hen4 ,,viii4 #aecb-cc4--;,an ,act for ,reformation of excess in ,apparel4 #ggg ,in #aeci4 #ggh ,lisle4 ,corr4 ,vol4 i41 p4 #fd4 ,p4,r4,o4 ,lord ,lisle was ,governor of ,calais1 whence the letter is dated4 ,honor4 ,lylle to ,madame ,antoinette de ,sevenges1 ,dunkerke4 ,madame1--,je ne vous eusse vollu envoier ceste demi dousaine pour changier nestoit que tous celles que menvoiez dernierement sont trop larges1 et une dousaine estoit de cestuy ouvrage dont jestis esmerveill1 veu que je vous avois escript que menvoissiez de louvrage aux lozenges1 vous priant que la demy dousaine que menvoierez pour ceste demy dousaine soient du dict ouvrage de lozenge1 et quil soient plus estroictes mesmement par devant nonobstant que lexemple est au contraire4 #ggi ,among the marriage clothes of ,mary ,neville1 who espoused ,george ,clifton1 #aecf1 is3-- ,a neyge of perle1 #a #ds4 #j;d4 ,in the pictures1 at ,hampton ,court ,palace1 of ,queens ,mary and ,elizabeth1 and another of ,francis ,,ii41 all as children1 their ruffs are edged with a very narrow purl4 #ghj #aech4 ,lisle4 ,corr4 7,p4,r4,o47 #gha ,see ,note #ggf4 #ghb ,privy ,purse ,ex4 ,hen4 ,,viii4 #aebi-cb4 ,sir ,h4 ,nicolas4 #ghc ,father of ,lord ,burleigh4 ,there are other similar entries3--#h pieces of yellow lace1 #is4 #d;d4 ,also1 green silk lace4 #afcb1 green silk lace occurs again1 as trimming a pair of ,french shoes in a ,bill of shoes for ,sir ,francis ,windebank and family4--,state ,papers ,dom4 ,vol4 #bba4 ,p4,r4,o4 #ghd ,inv4 of ,hen4 ,,viii4 and #d ,edw4 ,,vi4 ,harl4 ,,ms4 #adai1 ,a and ,b4 #ghe #ch ,hen4 ,,viii4 #aedf4 ,rymer's ,foedera4 ,vol4 xv41 p4 #aje4 #ghf ,harl4 ,,ms4 #adai4 ,passim4 #ghg ,see ,holbein's portraits4 #ghh ,the old cut-work cope4--,beaumont and ,fletcher4 ,the ,spanish ,curate4 #ghi ,we read1 too1 of #c kyrcheys yt was given to the kyrk wash1 large as a woman's hood worn at a funeral1 highly ornamented with the needle by pious women1 and given to be sold for the good of the impoverished church1 for which the churchwardens of ,st4 ,michael1 ,spurr ,gate1 ,york1 received the sum of #es4 #gij #a and #b ,ph4 and ,mary4 #gia ,white work appears also among ,queen ,elizabeth's ,new ,year's ,gifts3-- #aegh4 ,lady ,ratcliff4 ,a veil of white work1 with spangles and small bone lace of silver4 ,a swete bag1 being of changeable silk1 with a small bone lace of gold4 #aehi4 ,lady ,shandowes 7,chandos74 ,a cushion cloth of lawne wrought with whitework of branches and trees1 edged with bone work1 wrought with crowns4--,nichols' ,royal ,progresses4 #gib ,roll of ,new ,year's ,gifts4 #aeef4 #gic ,stowe1 ,queen ,mary4 ,an4 #aeed4 #gid ,it is not known when brass wire pins were first made in ,england1 but it must have been before #aedc1 in which year a ,statute was passed 7#ce ,hen4 ,,viii47 entitled1 ,an ,act for the ,true ,making of ,pynnes1 in which the price is fixed not to exceed #fs4 #h;d4 per #a1jjj4 ,by an ,act of ,rich4 ,,iii4 the importation of pins was prohibited4 ,the early pins were of boxwood1 bone1 bronze or silver4 ,in #acdg 7,liber ,garderob1 #ab-af ,edw4 ,,iii4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o47 we have a charge for #ab1jjj pins for the trousseau of ,joanna1 daughter of ,edward ,,iii41 betrothed to ,peter the ,cruel4 ,the young ,princess probably escaped a miserable married life by her decease of the black death at ,bordeaux when on her way to ,castille4 ,the annual import of pins in the time of ,elizabeth amounted to #c1big4--,state ,papers1 ,dom41 ,eliz4 ,vol4 viii4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 ,in ,eliz41 ,q4 of ,bohemia's ,expenses1 we find3 ,dix mille espingles dans un papier1 #d florins4--,ger4 ,corr4 ,no4 #da4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 ,in ,holland pillow-lace is called ,pinwork lace--,gespelde-werkte kant4--,sewell's ,eng4 and ,dutch ,dict4 #gie ,an elderly woman informed the author that she recollects in her youth1 when she learned to make ,honiton point of an ancient teacher of the parish1 bone pins were still employed4 ,they were in use until a recent period1 and renounced only on account of their costliness4 ,the author purchased of a ,devonshire lace-maker one1 bearing date #ahbi1 with the name tatooed into the bone1 the gift of some long-forgotten youth to her grandmother4 ,these bone or wood bobbins1 some ornamented with glass beads--the more ancient with silver let in--are the calendar of a lace-worker's life4 ,one records her first appearance at a neighbouring fair or ,may meeting2 a second was the first gift of her good man1 long cold in his grave2 a third the first prize brought home by her child from the dame school1 and proudly added to her mother's cushion3 one and all1 as she sits weaving her threads1 are memories of bygone days of hopes and fears1 of joys and sorrows2 and1 though many a sigh it calls forth1 she cherishes her well-worn cushion as an old friend1 and works away1 her present labour lightened by the memory of the past4 #gif ,surtees' ,wills and ,inv4 ,hearing bone lace value #es4 #d;d4 is mentioned in ye shoppe of ,john ,johnston1 of ,darlington1 merchant4 #gig #aegh4 ,james ,backhouse1 of ,kirby in ,lonsdale4 ,bobbin lace1 #fs4 per ounce4 #aeig4 ,john ,farbeck1 of ,durham4 ,in ye ,shoppe1 #d oz4 of ,bobbing lace1 #fs4 #d;d4--,ibid4 ,bobbin lace is noted in the ,royal ,inventories1 but not so frequently as bone4 ,laqueo 444 fact4 super lez bobbins4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz41 #bg and #bh4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 ,three peces teniar bobbin4--,ibid4 ,car4 ,i41 vi4 ,one pece of bobin lace1 #bs41 occurs frequently in the accounts of ,lord ,compton1 afterwards ,earl of ,northampton1 ,master of the ,wardrobe of ,prince ,charles4--,roll1 #afbb-bc1 ,extraordinary ,expenses1 and others4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #gih ,in the ,ward4 ,acc4 of his brother1 ,prince ,henry1 #afjg1 and the ,warrant to the ,g4 ,ward41 on his sister the ,princess ,elizabeth's marriage1 #afab-ac1 bone lace is in endless quantities4 ,bobbin lace appears invariably distinguished from bone lace1 both being mentioned in the same inventory4 ,the author one day showed an old ,vandyke ,italian edging to a ,devonshire lace-worker1 asking her if she could make it4 ,i think ,i can1 she answered2 it is bobbin lace4 ,on inquiring the distinction1 she said3 ,bobbin lace is made with a coarse thread1 and in its manufacture we use long bobbins instead of the boxwood of ordinary size1 which would not hold the necessary quantity of this thread1 though sufficient for the quality used in making ,honiton flowers and ,trolly lace4--,mrs4 ,palliser4 #gii ,randle ,holme1 in his enumeration of terms used in arts1 gives3 ,bone lace1 wrought with pegs4 ,the materials used for bobbins in ,italy have been already mentioned4 #hjj ,lord ,compton4 ,extraordinary ,expenses of the ,wardrobe of ,k4 ,charles1 before and after he was ,king4--,roll1 #afbb-bf4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #hja ,an4 #afce4 #hjb ,a miniature of ,old ,hilliard1 now in the possession of his ,grace the ,duke of ,hamilton4 #hjc #afad4 #hjd ,massinger4 #afab4 #hje ,beaumont and ,fletcher4 #hjf ,the things you follow and make songs on now1 should be sent to knit1 or sit down to bobbins or bone-lace4--,tatler4 #hjg ,we destroy the symmetry of the human figure1 and foolishly combine to call off the eye from great and real beauties to childish gewgaw ribbands and bone-lace4--,spectator4 #hjh ,it is used in ,walpole's ,new ,british ,traveller4 #aghd4 #hji ,haliwell gives compas as a circle2 ,anglo-,norman4 #haj ,partlet1 a small ruff or neck-band4 #haa ,eidem pro #d pec' de opera ,rhet' bon' florat' in forma oper' sciss' ad #bds41 #d #afs4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz41 #dc to #dd4 #aegh-gi4 ,new ,year's ,gifts4 ,baroness ,shandowes4 ,a vail of black network flourished with flowers of silver and a small bone-lace4--,nichols4 #hab ,encyclopdia ,britannica4 ,art4 ,costume4 ,sixteenth ,century4 #hac ,encyclopdia ,britannica4 ,art4 ,costume4 ,sixteenth century4 #had ,crown lace--so called from the pattern being worked on a succession of crowns sometimes intermixed with acorns or roses4 ,a relic of this lace may still be found in the faux galon sold by the ,german ,jews1 for the decoration of fancy dresses and theatrical purposes4 ,it is frequently mentioned4 ,we have3-- #ab yards laquei1 called crown lace of black gold and silk4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #d #e4 #ah yards crown lace purled with one wreath on one side4--,ibid4 #e #f4 #hae #aa virgis laquei ,byas4--,ibid4 #bi #cj4 #haf ,hemming and edging #h yards of ruff of cambric with white lace called hollow lace1 and various entries of ,spanish lace1 ,fringe1 ,black chain1 ,diamond1 knotted1 hollow1 and others1 are scattered through the earlier ,wardrobe ,accounts of ,queen ,elizabeth4 ,the accounts of the ,keepers of the ,great ,wardrobe1 which we shall have occasion so frequently to cite1 are now deposited in the ,public ,record ,office1 to which place they were transferred from the ,audit ,office in #ahei4 ,they extend from the #a ,elizabeth #aeeh to ,oct4 #aj1 #agha1 and comprise #afj volumes1 written in ,latin until #agcj-ca1 when the account appears in ,english1 and is continued so to the end4 #agdh-di is the last account in which the items are given4 #hag ,eliz4 #cj #ca4 ,billament lace occurs both in the shoppes and inventories of the day4 ,among the list of foreigners settled in the ,city of ,london in #aega 7,state ,papers1 ,dom41 ,eliz4 ,vol #hd4 ,p4,r4,o471 are3 ,william ,crutall1 useth the craft of making byllament lace2 ,rich4 ,thomas1 ,dutch1 a worker of ,billament lace4 ,in #aegc a country gentleman1 by his will deposited in the ,prerogative ,court of ,canterbury 7,brayley and ,britton's ,graphic ,illustrations71 bequeaths3 ,to my son ,tyble my short gown faced with wolf skin and laid with ,billements lace4 ,in ,john ,johnston's shop we have3 #c doz4 of velvet ,billemunt lace1 #abs4 ,in that of ,john ,farbeck1 #i yards of the same4 7,surtees' ,wills and ,inv47 ,widow ,chapman of ,newcastle's inventory1 #aecc1 contains3 ,one old cassock of broad cloth1 with billements lace1 #ajs4 7,ibid47 #hah #ie dozen rich silver double diamond and cross laces occur also in the ,extraordinary ,expenses for ,prince ,charles's ,journey to ,spain4 #afbc4--,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #hai #aega4 ,in ye ,great ,shop1 #h peces of 'waborne' lace1 #af;d4--,mr4 ,john ,wilkinson's ,goods1 of ,newcastle1 ,merchant4 #aehj4 #ajj ,gross and a half of 'waborne' lace4--,inv4 of ,cuthbert ,ellyson4 #aedi4 ,john de ,tronch1 ,abbot of ,kilmainham ,priory1 is condemned to pay #ajj marks fine for detaining #b lbs4 of ,waborne thread1 value #cs41 and other articles1 the property of ,w4 ,sacy4 #hbj ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #af #ag4 #hba ,eidem pro #f manuterg' de camerick operat' cum serico nigra trustich1 etc4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #da #db1 and1 again1 #dd4 #hbb #aegb4 ,inventory of ,thomas ,swinburne of ,ealingham1 ,esq4 ,his ,apparell4 ,a wellwett cote layd with silver las4 ,a satten doullet layd with silver las4 ,a payr of wellwett sleeves layd with silver las4--,surtees' ,wills and ,inv4 #hbc ,new ,year's ,gifts4 ,lady ,mary ,sidney4 ,a smock and two pillow beres of cameryck wrought with black-work and edged with a broad bone-lace of black sylke4 #hbd ,eidem pro #f caules alb' nodat opat' cu' le chainestich et ligat' cu' tape de filo soror1 ad #ads41 #dl4 #ds4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #da #db4 ,also in the last year of her reign 7#afjb7 we find3-- ,six fine net caules flourished with chaine stitch with sister's thread4--,wardrobe ,accounts4 ,b4 ,m4 ,add4 ,,mss4 ,no4 #egea4 #hbe ,in #aehc4 #hbf ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #ch #ci4 ,we have it also on ruffs4 ,eidem pro #b sutes de lez ruffs bon' de la lawne operat' in le laid work et edged cum ten' bon' ad #gjs4 per pec'1 #gl4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #dc #dd4 #hbg ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz41 last year of her reign4 ,again-- #afjj4 ,drawing and working with black silk drawne worke1 five smocks of fine holland cloth4--,b4 ,m4 ,add4 ,,mss4 ,no4 #egea4 ,these ,holland smocks as white as snow1 ,and gorgets brave with drawn-work wrought4 --,pleasant ,quippes for ,upstart ,newfangled ,gentlewomen4 #aeif4 #hbh ,as early as #adhe we have in the inventory of ,st4 ,mary-at-,hill1 ,an altar cloth of diaper1 garnished with #c blue ,kays 7,st4 ,peter's7 at each end4 ,all the church linen seems to have been embroidered in blue thread1 and so appears to have been the smocks and other linen4 ,jenkin1 speaking of his sweetheart1 says3 ,she gave me a shirt collar1 wrought over with no counterfeit stuff4 ,,george3 ,what6 was it gold8 ,,jenkin3 ,nay1 'twas better than gold4 ,,george3 ,what was it8 ,,jenkin3 ,right ,coventry blue4--,pinner of ,wakefield4 #aeii4 ,it was a simple napkin wrought with ,coventry blue4--,laugh and ,lie ,downe1 or the ,worlde's ,folly4 #afje4 ,though he perfume the table with rose cake or appropriate bone-lace and ,coventry blue1 writes ,stephens in his ,satirical ,essays4 #afae4 ,in the inventory of ,mary ,stuart1 taken at ,fotheringay1 after her death1 we have3 ,furniture for a bedd of black velvet1 garnished with ,bleue lace4 ,in the care of ,rallay1 alias ,beauregard4 ,this blue lace is still to be found on baptismal garments which have been preserved in old families on the ,continent and in ,england4 #hbi ,the widow of the famous clothier1 called ,jack of ,newbury1 is described when a bride as led to church between two boys with bride laces and rosemary tied about their sleeves4 #hcj ,tawdry4 ,as ,dr4 ,henshaw and ,skinner suppose1 of knots and ribbons1 bought at a fair held in ,st4 ,audrey's ,chapel2 fine1 without grace or elegance4--,bailey's ,dict4 #agfd4 ,southey 7,omniana4 ,vol4 i41 p4 #h7 says3-- ,it was formerly the custom in ,england for women to wear a necklace of fine silk called ,tawdry lace1 from ,st4 ,audrey4 ,she had in her youth been used to wear carcanets of jewels1 and being afterwards tormented with violent pains in the neck1 was wont to say1 that ,heaven1 in his mercy1 had thus punished her for her love of vanity4 ,she died of a swelling in her neck4 ,audry 7the same as ,ethelrede7 was daughter of ,king ,anna1 who founded the ,abbey of ,ely4 ,spenser in the ,shepherd's ,calender1 has3-- ,bind your fillets faste ,and gird in your waste ,for more fineness with a tawdry lace2 and in the ,faithful ,shepherdess of ,beaumont and ,fletcher1 ,amaryllis speaks of ,the primrose chaplet1 tawdry lace and ring4 #hca ,a passage already quoted in ,much ,ado about ,nothing shows us that1 in ,shakespeare's time1 the term to lace was generally used as a verb1 denoting to decorate with trimming4 ,margaret1 the tiring woman1 describes the ,duchess of ,milan's gown as of ,cloth o' gold1 and cuts1 and laced with silver4 #hcb ,much ,ado about ,nothing4 #hcc ,new ,year's ,gifts of ,mrs4 ,wyngfield1 ,lady ,southwell1 and ,lady ,willoughby4--,nichols' ,royal ,progresses4 #hcd ,mrs4 ,edmonds4 ,a cushion cloth of lawn cutwork like leaves1 and a few owes of silver4--,new ,year's ,gifts4 ,eidem pro le edginge unius panni vocat' a quishion cloth de lawne alb' operat' cum spaces de opere sciss' et pro viii4 virg' de ,laquei alb' lat' operat' sup' oss' #ccs4 #d;d4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #ca #cb4 #hce ,mistress ,twist1 the ,court laundress4 ,four toothcloths of ,holland wrought with black silk and edged with bone lace of silver and black silk4--,new ,year's ,gifts4 #hcf ,lady ,ratcliffe4 ,a night coyf of white cutwork flourished with silver and set with spangles4--,ibid4 #hcg ,cropson4 ,a night coyf of cameryk cutwork and spangells1 with a forehead cloth1 and a night border of cutwork with bone lace4--,ibid4 #aegg-h4 #hch ,eidem pro emendac lavacione et starching unius par' corpor' 7stays7 et manic' de lawne alb' bon' deorsum operat' in diversis locis cum spaciis ,lat' de operibus ,italic' sciss #bjsh4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #bf-bg4 #hci ,ibid4 #hdj ,ibid4 #bh-bi4 #hda ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #bi-cj4 #hdb ,ibid4 #ce-cf4 #hdc ,ibid4 #dc-dd4 ,a round kyrtle of cutwork in lawne4--,b4 ,m4 ,add4 ,,mss4 ,no4 #egea4 #hdd ,one yard of double ,italian cutwork a quarter of a yard wide1 #ees4 #d;d4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #cc and #cd4 ,una virga de opere sciss' lat' de factura ,italica1 #bfs4 #h;d4--,ibid4 #bi #cj4 #hde ,for one yard of double ,flanders cutwork worked with ,italian purl1 #ccs4 #d;d4--,ibid4 #cc #cd4 #hdf #c suits of good lawn cutwork ruffs edged with good bone lace 'operat' super oss'1' at #gjs41 #ajl4 #ajs4--,ibid4 #dc #dd4 #hdg #g virg' ,tenie lat' operis acui1 ad #fs4 #h;d41 #dfs4 #h;d4--,ibid4 #cg-ch4 #hdh ,eidem pro #b pectoral' de ope' sciss' fact' de ,italic' et ,flaundr' purle1 ad #dfs4--,ibid4 #db #dc4 ,eidem pro #a virg' de ,tenie de opere acuo cum le purle ,italic' de cons' ope' acuo #bjs4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #dj #da4 #hdi ,eliz4 #dd #afjc4 #hej #c yards broad needlework lace of ,italy1 with the purls of similar work1 at #ejs4 per yard1 #hl4 #aes4--,ibid4 #da-db4 ,bone lace varies in price from #djs4 the dozen to #aas4 #f;d4 the yard4 ,needle-made lace from #fs4 #h;d4 to #ejs4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,passim4 #hea ,lace is always called lacqueus in the ,gt4 ,wardrobe ,accounts up to #aeie-f1 after which it is rendered tnia4 ,both terms seem1 like our lace to have been equally applied to silk passements4 ,galons de soye1 de l'espce qui peuvent tre dnomins par le terme latin de 'tniola4' ,laqueus1 enlassements de diverses couleurs1 galons imitation de ces chanes qui les ,romains faisoient peindre1 dorer et argenter1 pour les rendre plus supportables aux illustres malheureux que le sort avoit rduit les porter4--,trait des ,marques ,nationales4 ,paris1 #agci4 #heb ,fine white or nun's thread is made by the ,augustine nuns of ,crema1 writes ,skippin1 #afca4 ,from the ,great ,wardrobe ,accounts the price appears to have been half a crown an ounce4 ,eidem pro #b li4 #d unc4' fili ,sororis1 ad #bs4 #f;d4 per unciam1 #dl4 #ajs4--,eliz4 #cd #ce4 #hec ,state ,papers ,domestic4 ,eliz4 ,vol4 #hd4 ,the sum total amounts to #d1bhg4 #hed ,see ,,burgundy4 ,the naturalized ,french residing in this country are ,normans of the district of ,caux1 a wicked sort of ,french1 worse than all the ,english1 writes1 in #aeec1 ,stephen ,porlin1 a ,french ecclesiastic1 in his ,description of ,england and ,scotland4 #hee #aeei4 ,oct4 #bj4 ,proclamation against excess of apparel4--,state ,papers ,dom4 ,eliz4 ,vol4 vii4 #aeff4 ,feb4 #ab4--;,ibid4 ,vol4 xxxix4 #aegi4 ,star ,chamber on apparel4 #hef ,state ,papers ,dom4 ,eliz4 ,vol4 xxiii4 ,no4 #h4 #heg ,ibid4 ,vol4 xlvii4 ,no4 #di4 #heh ,ibid4 ,vol4 viii4 ,no4 #ca4 #hei ,the value of thread imported amounts to #ac1fga #acs4 #d;d4 #hfj ,walsingham writes3 ,in opening a coffer of the ,queen of ,scots1 he found certain heades which so pleased certain ladies of his acquaintance1 he had taken the liberty to detain a couple4 #hfa ,a mantel of lawn cutwork wrought throughout with cutwork of 'pomegranettes1 roses1 honeysuckles1 cum crowns4' ,a doublet of lawn cutwork worked with 'lez rolls and true loves1' c4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 ,last year4 #hfb ,new ,year's ,gifts4 ,by the ,lady ,shandowes4 #aegg-h4 #hfc ,marquis of ,northampton4 #hfd ,lady ,carew4 ,a cushyn of fine cameryk edged with bone lace of ,venice sylver4 #hfe ,laqueus de serico ,jeano--7,genoa74 ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #cj-a4 #hff #aega4 ,revels at ,court4 ,cunningham4 ,some curious entries occur on the occasion of a ,masque called ,the ,prince given at court in #afjj3-- ,for the tooth-drawer3 ,to loope leace for his doublet and cassacke1 #hs4 ,for leace for the corne-cutters suite1 #gs4 ,for green leace for the tinkers suite1 #bs4 ,for the mouse-trapp-man3 #f yards of copper leace to leace is cloake1 at #as4 #h;d41 #ajs4 ,the ,prophet merely wears fringe1 #b ,ruffes and cuffes1 #cs4 #aj;d4 ,the subject of the ,masque seems lost to posterity4 #hfg ,lady ,chandos1 jun4 ,a cushyn cloth of lawne1 wrought with white worke of branches and trees edged with white bone worke wrought with crownes4--,new ,year's ,gifts4 #aegg-h4 #hfh #aegb4 ,revels at ,court4 #hfi ,in the possession of ,mrs4 ,evans of ,wimbledon4 #hgj ,sir ,gawine ,carew4 ,a smock of cameryke wrought with black work and edged with bone lace of gold4 ,lady ,souche4 ,a smock of cameryke1 the ruffs and collar edged with a bone lace of gold4 ,the ,lady ,marquis of ,winchester4 ,a smock of cameryke wrought with tanny silk and black1 the ruffs and collar edged with a bone lace of silver4--,new ,year's ,gifts4 #aegh-i4 #hga ,a bearing cloth1 for the ,squire's child1 is mentioned in the ,winter's ,tale4 #hgb ,many of these ,christening robes of lace and point are preserved as heirlooms in old families2 some are of old guipure1 others of ,flanders lace1 and later of ,valenciennes1 or needle-point4 ,the bib formed of guipure padded1 with tiny mittens of lace1 were also furnished to complete the suit4 #hgc ,in #aehd-e ,queen ,elizabeth sends a most wonderful apron to be washed and starched1 of cambric1 edged with lace of gold1 silver1 and in-grain carnation silk1 operat' super oss'1 with pearl buttons pro ornatione dict' apron4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,eliz4 #bf #bg4 ,a handkerchief she had1 ,all wrought with silke and gold1 ,which she1 to stay her trickling tears1 ,before her eyes did hold4 --,ballad of ,george ,barwell4 #hge ,new ,year's ,gift of ,lady ,radcliffe4 #aefa4 #hgf ,new ,year's ,gift of ,lady ,st4 ,lawrence4 #hgg ,surtees' ,wills and ,inv4 ,though the luxury of the court was excessive1 the nation at large were frugal in their habits4 ,our ,argentine of ,dorset was called ',argentine the ,golden1' in consequence of his buckles1 tags1 and laces being of gold4 ,such an extravagance being looked on as a marvel in the remote hamlets of the southern counties4 #hgh ,hence ruffles1 diminutive of ruffs4 ,ruff cuffs they are called in the ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 of ,james ,i41 #aa #ab4 #hgi ,stowe's ,chron4 #hhj ,endless are the entries in the ,gt4 ,w4 ,acc4 for washing1 starching and mending4 ,the court laundress can have had no sinecure4 ,we find le ,jup de lawne operat' cum stellis et aristis tritici ,anglice wheateares 7,eliz4 #db #dc71 sent to be washed1 starched1 etc4 ,a network vail sciss' totum desuper cum ragged staves4 7,leicester's device4 ,ibid4 #bi #cj47 ,a diploid' 7doublet7 of cut-work flourished cum auro et spangles 7,ibid471 and more wonderful still1 in the last year of her reign she has washed and starched a toga cum traine de la lawne operat' in auro et argento in forma caudarum pavorum1 the identical dress in which she is portrayed in one of her portraits4 #hha ,eidem pro un ruff bon pynned sup' le wier ,franc' cu rhet' aur' spangled1 #gjs4--,eliz4 #db #dc4 #hhb ,gt4 ,w4 ,acc4 ,eliz4 #cc #cd4 #hhc ,b43 ,where's my ruff and poker8 ,r43 ,there's your ruff1 shall ,i poke it8 ,b43 ,so poke my ruff now4--,old ,play by ,p4 ,dekker4 #afjb4 ,autolycus1 among his wares1 has poking-sticks of steel4 ,poked her rebatoes and surveryed her steel4--,law ,tricks4 #afjh4 #hhd ,middleton's ,comedy of ,blurt1 ,master ,constable4 #hhe ,or1 the ,world's ,folly4 #afje4 #hhf ,stowe4 #hhg ,ibid4 #hhh ,therefore she wore chin ruffs4 ,eidem pro #b sutes de lez chinne ruffs edged cu' arg41 #ajs4--,eliz4 #db #dc4 #hhi ,ben ,jonson4 ,every ,man ,out of ,his ,humour4 #aeii4 #hij ,lady ,cromwell4 ,three sutes of ruffs of white cutwork edged with a passamayne of white4 ,lady ,mary ,se'm'4 #c ruffs of lawne cutwork of flowers4 #hia ,they are either clogged with gold1 silver1 or silk laces of stately price1 wrought all over with needleworke1 speckeled and sparkeled here and there with the sunne1 the moone1 the starres and many other antiques strange to beholde4 ,some are wrought with open worke donne to the midst of the ruffe1 and further some with close worke1 some with purled lace so closed and other gewgawes so pestered1 as the ruff is the leest parte of itself4--,stubbe's ,description of the ,cut-work ,ruff4 #hib ,anatomie of ,abuses4 #aehc4 #hic ,eidem pro #c dozin laquei fact' de crine brayded cum lez rising puffs de crine1 ad #cfs4 le dd41 #e #hs4--,eliz4 #ca #cb4 ,the entry occurs frequently4 ,in ,ibid4 #hg #ch is a charge pro #d pirrywigges de crine1 at #afs4 #h;d4 each4 #hid ,in the ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 of the last year of her reign1 ,elizabeth had a variety of devices in false hair4 ,we have3-- ,eidem pro #bjj invencionibus factis decrine in forma lez lowpes et tuftes1 at #f;d4 each2 the like number in the form of leaves at #ab;d42 #ab in form of lez ,peramides1 at #cs4 #d;d42 #bd of ,globes1 at #ab;d41 with hair by the yard1 made in lowpes1 crispat' curiose fact'1 curle rotund'1 and other wonderful inventions4 #hie ,your trebble-quadruple ,ddalian ruffes1 nor your stiffe necked ,rebatoes that have more arches for pride to row under than can stand under five ,london ,bridges4--,the ,gul's ,hornebooke1 by ,t4 ,deckar4 ,london1 #afji4 #hif ,beaumont and ,fletcher4 ,nice ,valour4 #hig ,ibid4 ,the ,blind ,lady4 #affa4 #hih #afda4 #hii ,called by ,james ,i4 the ,king of ,preachers4 ,ob4 #afba #ijj ,in the ,dumb ,knight1 #afjh1 a woman1 speaking of her ruff1 says3-- ,this is but shallow4 ,i have a ruff is a quarter deep1 measured by the yard4 #ija ,see the portraits in the ,national ,portrait ,gallery of ,sir ,dudley and ,lady ,carleton1 by ,cornelius ,janssens1 of the ,queen of ,bohemia1 by ,mirevelt1 and of the ,countess of ,pembroke1 by ,mark ,geerards4 ,in ,westminster ,abbey1 the effigies of ,queen ,elizabeth and ,mary ,queen of ,scots1 on their tombs4 #ijb ,every ,man ,out of ,his ,humour1 #aeii4 ,again1 in his ,silent ,woman1 he says3-- ,she must have that ,rich gown for such a great day1 a new one ,for the next1 a richer for the third2 have the chamber filled with ,a succession of grooms1 footmen1 ushers1 ,and other messengers2 besides embroiderers1 ,jewellers1 tire-women1 semsters1 feather men1 ,perfumers2 whilst she feels not how the land ,drops away1 nor the acres melt2 nor foresees ,the change1 when the mercer has your woods ,for her velvets2 never weighs what her pride ,costs1 ,sir4 #ijc ,second ,acc4 of ,sir ,john ,villiers1 #afag-h4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #aej yards of fyne bone lace for six extraordinary ruff's provided against his ,majesty's marriage1 at #is41 #fgs4 #aj;d4--,extraordinary ,expenses4 #afbb-f4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #ijd ,state ,papers ,dom41 ,jac4 ,i4 ,vol4 iii41 ,no4 #hi4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #ije ,jasper ,mayne4 #afgj4 #ijf ,mistris ,turner1 the first inventresse of yellow starch1 was executed in a cobweb lawn ruff of that color at ,tyburn1 and with her ,i believe that yellow starch1 which so much disfigured our nation and rendred them so ridiculous and fantastic1 will receive its funerall4--,howel's ,letters4 #afde4 #ijg ,state ,papers ,dom41 ,james ,i4 ,vol4 cxiii4 ,no4 #ah4 #ijh ,we read that in #aegd the ,venetian ladies dyed their lace the colour of saffron4 ,the fashion may therefore be derived from them4 ,he is of ,england1 by his yellow band4--,notes from ,black ,fryers4 ,henry ,fitzgeffery4 #afag4 ,now ten or twenty eggs will hardly suffice to starch one of these yellow bandes4--,barnaby ,rich4 ,the ,irish ,hubbub1 or the ,english ,hue and ,cry4 #afbb4 ,killigrew1 in his play called ,the ,parson's ,wedding1 published in #affd1 alludes to the time when yellow starch and wheel verdingales were cried down2 and in ,the ,blind ,lady1 a play printed in #affa1 a serving-man says to the maid3 ,you had once better opinion of me1 though now you wash every day your best handkerchief in yellow starch4 #iji ,la ,courtisane la ,mode1 selon l',usage de la ,cour de ce ,temps4 ,paris1 #afbe4 #iaj ,carlo1 in ,every ,man ,out of ,his ,humour4 #aeii4 #iaa ,eidem pro #bi virg' le opere sciss' bon' ,italic'1 ad #ces41 #fh #es4--,gt4 ,w4 ,a4 ,jac4 ,i4 #e #f4 #iab ,the ,new ,inn4 #iac ,advice to ,sir ,george ,villiers4 #iad ,see ,parliamentary ,history of ,england4 ,sir ,giles was proceeded against as a monopolist and patentee1 and sentenced to be degraded and banished for life4 #iae ,speech in ,parliament4 ,rushout ,papers4 ,vol4 xi41 p4 #iaf4 #iaf ,the office or grant for sealing bone lace was quashed by the ,king's proclamation1 #afci1 dated from his manour of ,york4--,verney ,papers4 #iag ,b4 ,m4 ,bib4 ,lands4 #agb1 ,no4 #ei4 #iah #afjd4 ,sept4 #bg4 ,patent to ,ric4 ,dike and others to make ,venice gold and silver thread for #ba years4--,state ,papers ,dom41 ,jas4 ,i4 ,vol4 ix4 #dh4 #afjd4 ,dec4 #cj4 ,lease of the customs on gold and silver thread4--,ibid4 ,vol4 x4 #afje4 ,feb4 #b4 ,the same4 ,ibid4 ,vol4 xii4 #afaa4 ,may #ba4 ,patent to ,ric4 ,dike renewed4--,ibid4 ,vol4 lxiii4 #i4 ,in the same year 7,june #cj7 we find a re-grant to the ,earl of ,suffolk of the moiety of all seizures of ,venice gold and silver formerly granted in the fifth year of the ,king4--,ibid4 ,vol4 lxiv4 #ff4 ,in #afbb a lease on the customs on gold and silver thread lace is given to ,sir ,edward ,villiers4--,ibid4 ,vol4 cxxxii4 #cd4 #iai ,ibid4 ,vol4 cxxi4 #fd4 #ibj ,ibid4 ,vol4 cxxxii4 #cd4 #iba ,in #afbd ,king ,james renews his prohibition against the manufacture of gold purles1 as tending to the consumption of the coin and bullion of the kingdom4--,foedera1 ,vol4 xvii41 p4 #fje4 #ibb ,petition4 ,april #h1 #afbc4--,state ,papers1 ,vol4 cxlii4 #dd4 ,see ,chap4 xxx4 #ibc ,twoe payer of hande rebayters1 i4e41 cuffs4 #ibd ,in the ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 7,state ,papers ,dom41 ,james ,i4 #afjc1 ,sept4 ,vol4 iii4 ,no4 #hi7 is ,a ,memorandum of that ,misteris ,jane ,drumonde her recyte from ,ester ,littellye1 the furnishinge of her ,majesties ,linen ,cloth1 a long account1 in which1 among numerous other entries1 we find3-- ,it4 at ,basinge4 ,twenty four yeardes of small nidle work1 at #fs4 the yearde1 #g #ds4 ,more at ,basinge4 ,one ruffe cloth1 cumbinge cloth and apron all shewed with white worke1 at #ejs4 the piece1 #g #ajs4 ,it4 one pece of fine lawin to bee a ruffe1 #e4 ,item1 for #ah yeards of fine lace to shewe the ruffe1 at #fs4 the yearde1 #e #hs4 ,item1 #fh purle of fair needlework1 at #bj pence the purle1 #e #aes4 #d;d4 ,item1 at ,winchester1 the #bhth of ,september1 one piece of cambrick1 #d4 ,item1 for #f yards of fine purle1 at #bjs41 #f4 ,item1 for #d yards of great bone lace1 at #is4 the yard1 #cfs4 ,queen ,anne has also a fair wrought sark costing #f1 and a cut-work handkerchief1 #ab1 and #b pieces of cut-work1 ell wide and #b yards long1 at #b4 the length1 etc4 #ibe ,lady ,audrye ,walsingham's ,account4 #afjf4--,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #ibf ,mary1 her third daughter1 died #afjg1 not two years of age4 ,mrs4 ,greene quotes from the ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 a note of the necessaries to be provided for the child1 among which are six large cambric handkerchiefs1 whereof one is to be edged with fair cut-work to lay over the child's face2 six veils of lawn1 edged with fair bone lace2 six gathered bibs of fine lawn with ruffles edged with bone lace1 etc4 ,the total value of the lace and cambric required for the infant's garments is estimated at #cjj4--,lives of the ,princesses of ,england4 ,vol4 vi41 p4 #ij4 #ibg ,england is rich in monumental effigies decorated with lace--too many to enumerate4 ,among them we would instance that of ,alice1 ,countess of ,derby1 died #afcf1 in ,harefield ,church1 ,middlesex1 in which the lace is very carefully sculptured4--,communicated by ,mr4 ,albert ,hartshorne4 #ibh #afbj-a4 ,we have entries of falling bands of good cambric1 edged with beautiful bone lace1 two dozen stitched and shagged1 and cut-work nightcaps1 purchased for ,james ,i41 in the same account1 with #bhs4 for one load of hay to stuff the woolsacks for the ,parliament ,house4--,g4 ,w4 ,acc4 ,jac4 ,i4 #ah to #ai4 ,in the same year1 #afbj1 an ,english company exported a large quantity of gold and silver lace to ,india for the ,king of ,golconda4 #ibi ,malcontent4 #afjj4 #icj ,extraordinary expenses1 #afbb-bf4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #ica #bnd ,acc4 of ,sir ,j4 ,villiers4 #afag-ah4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #icb ,gt4 ,w4 ,a4 ,jac4 ,i4 #f to #g4 #icc ,taylor4 #afdj3-- ,the beau would feign sickness ,to show his nightcap fine1 ,and his wrought pillow overspread with lawn4--,davies4 ,epigrams4 #icd ,acc4 of ,sir ,lyonell ,cranfield 7now ,earl of ,middlesex71 late ,master of the ,great ,wardrobe1 touching the funeral of ,queen ,anne1 who died #bnd ,march1 #afah 7i4e4 #afai ,n4 ,s474 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #ice ,about this time a complaint is made by the ,london tradesmen1 of the influx of refugee artizans1 who keepe theire misteries to themselves1 which hath made them bould of late to device engines for workinge lace1 c41 and such wherein one man doth more among them than seven ,englishmen can doe1 soe as theire cheape sale of those commodities beggareth all our ,english artificers of that trade and enricheth them1 which becomes scarce tolleruble1 they conclude4 ,cecil1 in consequence1 orders a census to be made in #afba4 ,among the traders appears one satten lace maker4 ,colchester is bitterly irate against the ,dutch strangers1 and complains of one ,jonas ,snav1 a ,bay and ,say maker1 whose wife selleth blacke1 browne1 and white thredde1 and all sorts of bone lace and vatuegardes1 which they receive out of ,holland4 ,one ,isaac ,bowman1 an ,alyen born1 a chirurgeon and merchant1 selleth hoppes1 bone lace1 and such like1 to the great grievance of the free burgesses4 ,a nest of refugee lace-makers1 who came out of ,france by reason of the late 'trobles' yet continuing1 were congregated at ,dover 7#afba-b74 ,a list of about five-and-twenty widows1 being makers of ,bone lace1 is given1 and then ,mary ,tanyer and ,margarett ,le ,moyne1 maydens and makers of bone lace1 wind up the catalogue of the ,dover ,alyens4 ,the ,maidstone authorities complain that the thread-makers' trade is much decayed by the importation of thread from ,flanders4--,list of ,foreign ,protestants resident in ,england4 #afah-hh4 ,printed by the ,camden ,society4 #icf ,jasper ,mayne4 #icg ,beaumont and ,fletcher4 #ich ,valuables of ,glenurquhy1 #afdj4 ,innes' ,sketches of ,early ,scotch ,history4 #ici ,collars of ,hollie worke appear in the ,inventories of ,mary ,stuart4 #idj ,thomas ,hodges1 for making ruffe and cuffes for his ,highness of cuttworke edged with a fayre peake purle1 #g4--bnd ,account of ,sir ,j4 ,villiers4 ,prince ,charles4 #afag-ah4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #dj yards broad peaked lace to edge #f cupboard cloths1 at #ds4 a yard1 #h4--;,ibid4 #ida ,seaming lace and spacing lace appear to have been generally used at this period to unite the breadths of linen1 instead of a seam sewed4 ,we find them employed for cupboard cloths1 cushion cloths1 sheets1 shirts1 etc41 throughout the accounts of ,king ,james and ,prince ,charles4 ,at ,stratford-upon-,avon is preserved1 in the room where ,shakspeare's wife1 ,anne ,hathaway1 was born1 an oaken linen chest1 containing a pillow-case and a very large sheet made of homespun linen4 ,down the middle of the sheet is an ornamental open or cut-work insertion1 about an inch and a half deep1 and the pillow-case is similarly ornamented4 ,they are marked ,e4 ,h41 and have always been used by the ,hathaway family on special occasions1 such as births1 deaths1 and marriages4 ,this is still a common custom in ,warwickshire2 and many families can proudly show embroidered bed linen1 which has been used on state occasions1 and carefully preserved in old carved chests for three centuries and more4--,a ,shakspeare ,memorial4 #ahfd4 #idb ,the ,truth of the ,times4 ,w4 ,peacham4 #afch4 #idc ,state ,papers ,dom4 ,jas4 ,i4 ,vol4 lxxii4 ,no4 #bh4 #idd ,warrant on the ,great ,wardrobe4 #afab-ac4 ,princess ,elizabeth's marriage4 #ide ,frankfort fair1 at which most of the ,german princes made their purchases4 #idf ,german ,correspondence4 #afad-ae4--,p4 ,r4 ,o4 ,we find among the accounts of ,col4 ,schomberg and others3-- ,to a merchant of ,strasbourg1 for laces which she had sent from ,italy1 #bhh rix-dollars4 ,and1 in addition to numerous entries of silver and other laces3-- ,pour dentelle et linge kar pour ,madame1 #aae florins4 ,donn ,madame de ,caus pour des mouchoirs point couppe pour ,madame1 #d4 ,une petite dentelle point coupp1 #c1 etc4 ,point coup handkerchiefs seem to have been greatly in fashion4 ,ben ,jonson1 ,bartholomew ,fair1 #afad1 mentions them3-- ,a cut-work handkerchief she gave me4 #idg ,see ,snelling's ,coins4 ,pl4 ix4 #h1 #i1 #aj4 #idh ,ibid4 ,pl4 ix4 #e1 #f1 #aa4 #idi ,evelyn1 describing a medal of ,king ,charles ,i41 struck in #afcc1 says he wears a falling band1 which new mode succeeded the cumbersome ruff2 but neither did the bishops or the judges give it up so soon1 the ,lord ,keeper ,finch being1 ,i think1 the very first4 #iej ,in #afcc1 the bills having risen to #a1ejj a year1 a project is made for reducing the charge for the ,king's fine linen and bone lace1 for his body1 again to #a1jjj per annum1 for which sum it may be very well done4--,state ,papers1 ,chas4 ,i4 ,vol4 ccxxxiv4 ,no4 #hc4 #iea ,paid to ,smith ,wilkinson1 for #dbj yards of good ,flanders bone lace for #ab day ruffes and #f night ruffes 'cum cuffes eisdem1' #hg #aes4 ,for #f falling bands made of good broad ,flanders lace and ,cuttworks with cuffs of the same1 #eb #afs4--,gt4 ,w4 ,a4 ,car4 ,i4 #f #afca4 #ieb ,see ,g4 ,w4 ,a41 ,mich41 #afbi1 to ,april1 #afcj4 #iec ,twelfth-,night4 #ied ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,car4 ,i4 ,the ,annunciation #i to ,mich4 #aa4 #iee ,ibid4 #h and #i4 #ief ,state ,papers ,dom4 ,charles ,i4 ,vol4 cxlix4 ,no4 #ca4 #ieg ,in a letter to ,mr4 ,edward ,nicholas1 ,sec4 of the ,admiralty1 ,march #gth1 #afbg 7afterwards ,sec4 of ,state to ,chas4 ,,ii474--,st4 ,p4 ,d4 ,chas4 ,i4 ,vol4 cxxiii4 #fb4 ,among the ,state ,papers 7,vol4 cxxvi4 #gj71 is a letter from ,susan ,nicholas to her loveing ,brother1 #afbh4 ,about lace for his band1 she writes3 ,i have sent you your bootehose and could have sent your lase for your band1 but that ,i did see these lasees which to my thought did do a greddeale better then that wh you did bespeake1 and the best of them will cost no more then that which is half a crowne a yard1 and so the uppermost will cost you1 and the other will cost #ah pence2 ,i did thinke you would rather staye something long for it then to pay so deare for that wh would make no better show2 if you like either of these1 you shall have it sone desptch1 for ,i am promise to have it made in a fortnight4 ,i have received the monie from my cousson ,hunton4 ,heare is no news to wright of4 ,thus with my best love remembred unto you1 ,i rest your very loving sister1 ,,susanne ,,nicholas4 ,i have sent ye the lase ye foyrst bespoke1 to compare them together1 to see which ye like best4 #ieh ,in #afbj an ,english company exported a large quantity of gold and silver lace to ,india for the ,king of ,golconda4 #iei ,w4 ,peacham1 ,truth of the ,times4 #afch4 ,hamlet says there are ,two ,provenal roses on my regal shoes4 ,when roses in the gardens grow1 ,and not in ribbons on a shoe2 ,now ribbon-roses take such place1 ,that garden roses want their grace4 --,friar ,bacon's ,prophesie4 #afjd4 ,i like1 says ,evelyn1 the boucle better than the formal rose4--,tyrannus1 or the ,mode4 #ifj ,this proclamation is dated from our ,honour of ,hampton ,court1 #cjth ,april1 #afce4--,rymer's ,foedera4 ,t4 #ai1 p4 #fij4 #ifa ,when ,anne of ,austria was suspected of secret correspondence with ,spain and ,england1 ,richelieu sent the ,chancellor to question the ,abbess of the ,val-de-,grce with respect to the casket which had been secretly brought into the monastery4 ,the ,abbess 7,vie de la ,mre d',arbouse7 declared that this same casket came from the ,queen of ,england1 and that it only contained lace1 ribbons1 and other trimmings of ,english fashion1 sent by ,henrietta ,maria as a present to the ,queen4--,galerie de l',ancienne ,cour4 #agia4 #ifb ,state ,papers ,dom4 ,vol4 cxxiii4 ,no4 #fe4 #ifc ,rhodon and ,iris1 a ,pastoral4 #afca4 #ifd ,ornatus ,muliebris ,anglicanus4 #afde4 #ife ,you must to the ,pawn 7,exchange7 to buy lawn1 to ,st4 ,martin for lace4--,westward ,ho4 #afjg4 ,a copper lace called ,st4 ,martin's lace4--,strype4 #iff ,taylor1 ,whip of ,pride4 #afdj4 #ifg ,in ,eastward ,ho1 #afje1 proud ,gertrude says3 ,smocks of three pound a smock1 are to be born with all4 #ifh ,bartholomew ,fair4 #afad4 ,she shewed me gowns and head tires1 ,embroidered waistcoats1 smocks seam'd thro' with cut-works4 --,beaumont and ,fletcher1 ,four ,plays in ,one4 #afdg4 ,who would ha' thought a woman so well harness'd1 ,or rather well caparison'd1 indeed1 ,that wears such petticoats1 and lace to her smocks1 ,broad seaming laces4 --,ben ,jonson1 ,the ,devil is an ,ass4 #afaf4 #iga ,a suite of russet laced all over with silver curle lace4--,expenses of ,robt4 ,sidney1 ,earl of ,leicester4 ,temp4 ,chas4 ,i4 ,this comes of wearing ,scarlet1 gold lace and cut-works2 your fine gartering ,with your blown roses4 --,the ,devil is an ,ass4 #igc ,notes from ,black ,fryers4 #igd ,jasper ,mayne4 ,amorous ,war4 #afei4 #ige ,the ,little ,french ,lawyer4 #igf ,memoirs4 #igg ,the ,cromwell ,family4 #igh ,sir ,philip ,warwick4 #afdj4 #igi ,at the ,restoration1 it was removed from the ,abbey and hung out of the window at ,whitehall1 and then broken up and destroyed4 #ihj #affa1 ,nov4 #bj4 ,state ,papers4 ,dom4 ,charles ,,ii4 ,vol4 xliv4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #iha ,to ,william ,briers1 for making the ,colobium ,sindonis of fine lawn laced with fine ,flanders lace1 #ccs4 #d;d4 ,to ,valentine ,stucky1 for #ad yards and a half of very fine ,flanders lace for the same1 at #ahs4 per yard1 #ab #fs4 #f;d4--,acc4 of the ,e4 of ,sandwich1 ,master of the ,g4 ,w4 for the ,coronation of ,king ,charles ,,ii4 #bc ,april1 #affa4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #ihb ,in the ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 for #bi and #cj occurs a curious entry by the ,master of the ,great ,wardrobe3--,i doe hereby charge myself with #e1jjj ,livres by me received in the realm of ,france for gold and silver fringes by me there sold1 belong to a rich embroidered ,bed of his said ,majesty1 which at one shilling and sevenpence per lib4 ,english4 ,being the value of the ,exchange at that time1 amounts to #cie #afs4 #h;d4 7,signed7 ,r4 ,,montague4 ,may #bh1 #afgh4 #ihc #ad ,car4 ,,ii4 c4 #ac4 ,statutes at large4 ,the ,acts of ,charles ,,ii4 date from the death of his father2 so the year of the ,restoration1 #affj1 is counted as the thirteenth of his reign4 #ihd #affb4 ,state ,papers ,dom4 ,charles ,,ii4 ,vol4 lv41 ,no4 #be4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #ihe ,he pays #aid to his ,laceman 7,tenentori7 for #c ,cravats de poynt de ,venez1 and #bds4 per yard for #eg yards of narrow point teni poynt august1 to trim his falling ruffles1 manicis cadentibus1 etc4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,car4 ,,ii4 #bd and #be4 ,later 7#afgf-g7 we find charged for un par manicarum1 le poynt1 #ad4 #ihf ,when it was replaced by a black ribbon and a bow4 #ihg ,london1 #afhj4 #ihh ,authors1 however1 disagree like the rest of the world4 ,in a tract called ,the ,ancient ,trades ,decayed ,repaired ,again1 by ,sir ,roger ,l',estrange 7#afgh71 we read3 ,nay1 if the materials used in a trade be not of the growth of ,england1 yet1 if the trade be to employ the poor1 we should have it bought without money1 and brought to us from beyond the seas where it is made as ',bone lace4' #ihi ,swift4 ,baucis and ,philemon4 #iij ,intelligencer1 #affe1 ,june #e4 ,lost1 six handkerchers wrapt up in a brown paper1 two laced1 one point-laced set on tiffany2 the two laced ones had been worn1 the other four new4 ,london ,gazette4 #afgb1 ,dec4 #e-i4 ,lost1 a lawn pocket handkercher with a broad hem1 laced round with a fine ,point lace about four fingers broad1 marked with an ,r in red silk4 #iia ,evelyn4 ,it was the custom1 at a ,maiden ,assize1 to present the judge with a pair of laced gloves4 ,lord ,campbell in #ahef1 at the ,lincoln ,lent ,assizes1 received from the sheriff a pair of white gloves richly trimmed with ,brussels lace and embroidered1 the city arms embossed in frosted silver on the back4 #iib ,london ,gazette4 #afgg1 ,jan4 #bh-ca4 ,again1 ,oct4 #d-h1 in the same year4 ,stolen or lost out of the ,petworth waggon1 a deal box directed to the ,lady ,young of ,burton in ,sussex2 there was in it a fine ,point ,apron1 a suit of thin laced ,night clothes1 etc4 #iic ,london ,gazette4 #afge1 ,june #ad-ag4 ,a right ,point lace with a long musling neck laced at the ends with a narrow ,point about three fingers broad1 and a pair of ,point cuffs of the same1 worn foul and never washt1 was lost on ,monday last4 ,ibid4 #afgg1 ,oct4 #bb-be4 ,found in a ditch1 ,four laced forehead cloths4 ,one laced ,pinner1 one laced ,quoif1 one pair of laced ruffels4444 ,two point aprons and other laced linen4 ,intelligencer4 #affd1 ,oct4 #c4 ,lost1 ,a needle work point without a border1 with a great part of the loups cut out1 and a quarter of it new loupt with the needle4 #e reward4 #iid ,london ,gazette4 #afgg1 ,oct4 #h-aa4 #iie ,tyrannus1 or the ,mode4 #affa4 #iif ,it is written ,colberteen1 ,colbertain1 ,golbertain1 ,colbertine4 #iig ,colberteen1 a lace resembling network1 being of the manufacture of ,m4 ,colbert1 a ,french statesman4 #iih ,a writer in ,notes and ,queries says3 ,i recollect this lace worn as a ruffle fifty years ago4 ,the ground was square and coarse1 it had a fine edge1 with a round mesh1 on which the pattern was woven4 ,it was an inferior lace and in every-day wear4 #iii ,cadenus and ,vanessa4 ,see also ,young1 p4 #aaa4 #ajjj ,way of the ,world4 #ajja ,six ,weeks in ,france4 #afia4 #ajjb ,gt4 ,w4 ,a4 ,car4 ,,ii4 #ce-cf #afhc-d4 #ajjc ,gazette1 ,july #bj1 #afhb4 ,lost1 a portmanteau full of women's clothes1 among which are enumerated two pairs of ,point d',espagne ruffles1 a laced night rail and waistcoat1 a pair of ,point de ,venise ruffles1 a black laced scarf1 etc4--,malcolm's ,anecdotes of ,london4 ,the lace of ,james ,,ii4's cravats and ruffles are of point de ,venise4 ,sex prlant cravatts de lacinia ,venetiarum1 are charged #ada1 and #i yards lace1 for six more cravats1 #de4 #cf #ajs4 for the cravat of ,venice lace to wear on the day of his ,coronation1 etc4--,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,jac4 ,,ii4 #afhe-f4 #ajjd ,a writer in the ,gentleman's ,magazine1 7,october1 #agde71 mentions3 ,in the parlour of the monastery of ,english ,benedictines at ,paris1 ,i was shown the mask of the king's face1 taken off immediately after he was dead1 together with the fine laced nightcap he died in4 ,the cap at ,dunkirk is trimmed with ,flemish lace 7old ,mechlin74 ,it must have passed from ,paris to the convent of ,english ,benedictines at ,dunkirk1 who left that city in #agic4 ,there is no record how it became deposited in the ,museum4--,communicated by ,m4 de ,forade1 ,conservator of the ,museu la ,dunkirk4 #ajje #i #aj ,will4 ,,iii4 #afig-h4 #ajjf #aa #ab ,will4 ,,iii4 #afih-i4 #ajjg ,smith's ,wealth of ,nations4 #ajjh ,see ,,louis ,,xiv4 #ajji ,see ,,louis ,,xiv4 #ajaj ,spectator1 ,no4 #abi4 #agaa4 ,lost1 from behind a ,hackney coach1 ,lombard ,street1 a grounded lace night rail4--,london ,gazette4 ,aug4 #h1 #afie4 ,lost1 two loopt lace ,pinners and a pair of double laced ruffles1 bundled up together4--,ibid4 ,jan4 #f-aj1 #afig4 ,taken out of two boxes in ,mr4 ,drouth's waggon 444 six cards of piece lace looped and purled1 scolopt heads to most of them 444 a fine ,flanders lace head and ruffles1 groundwork set on a wier1 etc4--,ibid4 ,april #aa-ad1 #afih4 ,furbelows are not confined to scarfs1 but1 they must have furbelow'd gowns1 and furbelow'd petticoats1 and furbelow'd aprons2 and1 as ,i have heard1 furbelow'd smocks too4--,pleasant ,art of ,money-catching4 #agcj4 #ajaa ,b4 ,m4 ,add4 ,,mss4 ,no4 #egea4 #ajab ,bought of ,john ,bishop ,jer4 ,peirie1 att ye ,golden ,ball1 in ,ludgate ,hill1 #bf ,april1 #afic3 #c yards of ,rich silver rufl'd scollop lace falbala1 with a ,rich broad silver ,tire ,orris at the head1 at #gs4 #c;d4 a yard1 #be #js4 #f;d4 #h yards of broad scollopped thread lace1 at #bes4 #c yards ,rich ,paigning 787 ,lace1 #dhs4 #h;d41 #h #ads4 #ajac #i ,fine purle to set on the pinner1 at #cs4 #ajad #e of fine broad cattgutt border1 at #bjs4 #ajae #a yard #g_/af ,raised ,point to put on the top of a pair of sleeves1 at #cjs4 #ajaf #h yards of ,broad ,needlework ,lace1 at #cjs4 #ajag #c yards of lace to ,mazzarine ye pinners1 at #bes4 ,probably the same as the ,french campanner4 #ajah ,the ,milliner1 in ,shadwell's ,bury ,fair4 #agbj4 #ajai ,g4 ,w4 ,a4 ,will4 ,,iii4 #afhh to #agjb4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #ajbj ,ibid4 vii4 viii4 #ajba ,i hope your ,lordship is pleased with your ,steinkerk4--,sir ,john ,vanbrugh4 ,the ,relapse4 ,in ,colley ,cibber's ,careless ,husband1 ,lady ,easy takes the ,steinkirk off her neck and lays it on ,sir ,charles's head when he is asleep4 ,in ,love's ,last ,shift1 by the same author 7#afie71 the hero speaks of being ,strangled in my own ,steinkerk4 ,in ,love for ,love1 by ,congreve1 ,sir ,novelty enumerates the ,steinkirk1 the large button1 with other fashions1 as created by him4 ,i have heard the ,steinkirk arrived but two months ago4--,spectator1 ,no4 #abi4 ,the modish spark wears a huge ,steinkirk1 twisted1 to the waist4--#afid4 ,prologue to ,first ,part of ,don ,quixote4 ,frank ,osbaldeston1 in ,rob ,roy1 is deprived by the ,highlanders of his cravat1 a ,steinkirke richly laced4 ,at ,ham ,house was the portrait of a ,countess of ,dysart1 temp4 ,anne1 in three-cornered cocked hat1 long coat1 flapped waistcoat1 and ,mechlin ,steinkirk4 ,in the ,account ,book of ,isabella1 ,duchess of ,grafton1 daughter of ,lord ,arlington1 ,evelyn's sweet child--her portrait hangs in ,queen ,mary's ,room1 ,hampton ,court--we have3 #agji4 ,to a ,stinkirk1 #a #abs4 #c;d4 ,they appear to have been made of other stuffs than lace1 for in the same account1 #agjh1 we have entered3 ,to a green ,steenkirk1 #a #as4 #f;d4 #ajbb ,the ,volunteers1 or the ,stock ,jobbers4 #ajbc ,the ,tombs in ,westminster ,abbey1 sung by the ,brothers ,popplewell4 ,broadside1 #agge4--;,b4 ,m4 ,roxburgh ,coll4 #ajbd ,king ,charles ,,ii4's lace is the same as that of ,queen ,mary4 ,the ,duchess of ,buckingham 7the mad ,duchess1 daughter of ,james ,,ii47 has also very fine raised lace4 #ajbe ,venice1 ,bib4 ,st4 ,mark4 ,contarini ,miscellany4 ,communicated by ,mr4 ,rawdon ,brown4 #ajbf ,weekly ,journal4 ,march1 #agag4 #ajbg ,the ,modern ,warrior4 #agef4 #ajbh ,acc4 of ,ralph1 ,earl of ,montague1 ,master of the ,g4 ,w41 touching the ,funeral of ,william ,,iii4 and ,coronation of ,queen ,anne4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #ajbi ,statutes at large4--,anne #e #f4 #ajcj ,this edict greatly injured the lace trade of ,france4 ,in the ,atlas ,maritime et ,commercial of #agbg1 it states3 ,i might mention several other articles of ,french manufacture which1 for want of a market in ,england where their chief consumption was1 are so much decayed and in a manner quite sunk4 ,i mean as to exportation1 the ,english having now set up the same among themselves1 such as bone lace4 #ajca ,history of ,trade4 ,london1 #agjb4 #ajcb ,pro #ad virgis laut ,fimbr' ,bruxell' lacini et #ab virgis dict' lacini pro ,regin persona1 #aea4--;,g4 ,w4 ,a4 #agaj-aa4 #ajcc ,letters of the ,countess of ,hartford to the ,countess of ,pomfret4 #agdj4 #ajcd ,memoirs of ,lady ,r4 ,russell4 ,my high commode1 my damask gown1 ,my laced shoes of ,spanish leather4 --,d',urfey4 ,the ,young ,maid's ,portion4 #ajcf ,no4 #ih4 #agaa4 #ajcg ,after fifteen years' discontinuance it shot up again4 ,swift1 on meeting the ,duchess of ,grafton1 dining at ,sir ,thomas ,hanmer's1 thus attired1 declared she looked like a mad woman4 #ajch ,statutes at large4 #ajci ,in #agab ,mrs4 ,beale had stolen from her a green silk knit waistcoat with gold and silver flowers all over it1 and about #ad yards of gold and silver thick lace on it2 while another lady was robbed of a scarlet cloth coat so overlaid with the same lace1 it might have been of any other colour4--,malcolm's ,anecdotes of the ,manners and ,customs of ,london in the ,eighteenth ,century4 #ajdj ,post ,boy4 ,nov4 #ae1 #agji4 ,articles ,lost4 #ajda ,a ,discourse on ,trade1 by ,john ,cary1 merchant of ,bristol4 #agag4 ,again3 ,what injury was done by the ,act #i-aj ,will4 ,,iii4 for the more effectual preventing of importation of foreign bone lace1 doth sufficiently appear by the preamble to that made #aj-ab of the same reign for repealing it three months after the prohibition of our woollen manufactures in ,flanders 7which was occasioned by it7 should be taken off2 but ,i don't understand it be yet done1 and it may prove an inevitable loss to the nation4 #ajdb ,lover4 ,no4 #aj4 #agad4 #ajdc ,the ornamental ribbons worn about the dress3 ,his dress has bows1 and fine fallals4--,evelyn4 ,sometimes the term appears applied to the ,fontanges or ,commode4 ,we read 7#afia7 of her three-storied ,fladdal4 #ajdd ,tunbridge ,wells4 #agbg4 #ajde ,in ,the ,recruiting ,officer 7#agha71 ,lucy the maid says3 ,indeed1 ,madam the last bribe ,i had from the ,captain was only a small piece of ,flanders lace for a cap4 ,melinda answers3 ,ay1 ,flanders lace is a constant present from officers4444 ,they every year bring over a cargo of lace1 to cheat the king of his duty and his subjects of their honesty4 ,again1 ,silvio1 in the bill of costs he sends in to the widow ,zelinda1 at the termination of his unsuccessful suit1 makes a charge for a piece of ,flanders lace to ,mrs4 ,abigail1 her woman4--,addison1 in ,guardian1 ,no4 #ag4 #agac4 #ajdf ,in the next reign1 ,george ,,iii4 and ,queen ,charlotte often condescended to become sponsors to the children of the aristocracy4 ,to one child their presence was fatal4 ,in #aggh they 'stood' to the infant daughter of the last ,duke and ,duchess of ,chandos4 ,cornwallis1 ,archbishop of ,canterbury1 officiated4 ,the baby1 overwhelmed by whole mountains of lace1 lay in a dead faint4 ,her mother was so tender on the point of etiquette1 that she would not let the little incident trouble a ceremony at which a king and queen were about to endow her child with the names of ,georgiana ,charlotte4 ,as ,cornwallis gave back the infant to her nurse1 he remarked that it was the quietest baby he had ever held4 ,poor victim of ceremony6 ,it was not quite dead1 but dying2 in a few unconscious hours it calmly slept away4--,a ,gossip on ,royal ,christenings4 ,cornhill ,magazine4 ,april1 #ahfd4 #ajdg ,furniture of a ,woman's ,mind4 #ajdh ,dean ,swift to a ,young ,lady4 #ajdi ,cowley4 #ajej #agca4 ,simile for the ,ladies1 alluding to the laces worn at the last ,birthday and not paid for4 ,in ,evening fair you may behold ,the ,clouds are fringed with borrowed gold1 ,and this is many a lady's case ,who flaunts about in borrowed lace4 #ajea ,jenyns4 ,the ,modern ,fine ,lady4 #ajeb ,crown4 ,sir ,courtly ,nice1 or ,it ,cannot ,be1 a ,comedy4 #agca4 #ajec #agdh4 ,ruffles of twelve pounds a yard4--,apology for ,mrs4 ,t4 ,c4 ,philips4 #agdh4 ,lace1 however1 might be had at a more reasonable rate3-- ',i have a fine lac'd suit of pinners1' says ,mrs4 ,thomas1 'that was my great-grandmother's6 that has been worn but twice these forty years1 and my mother told me cost almost four pounds when it was new1 and reaches down hither4'--,miss ,lucy in ,town4 ,fielding4 #ajed ,dictionary of ,commerce4 #agff4 #ajee ,he was a martinet about his own dress1 for his biographer relates during the last illness of ,queen ,caroline 7#agcg71 though the ,king was visibly affected1 remembering he had to meet the foreign ministers next day1 he gave particular directions to his pages to see that new ruffles were sewn on his old shirt sleeves1 whereby he might wear a decent air in the eyes of the representatives of foreign majesty4 #ajef ,by a list of linen furnished to the ,princesses ,louisa and ,mary1 we find their night-dresses were trimmed with lace at #ajs4 per yard1 and while their ,royal ,highnesses were in bibs1 they had six suits of broad lace for aprons at from #ej to #fj each suit4--,corr4 of the ,countess of ,suffolk1 ,lady of the ,bedchamber to ,queen ,caroline4 ,observe also the lace-trimmed aprons1 ruffles1 tuckers1 etc41 in the pretty picture of the family of ,frederick1 ,prince of ,wales1 at ,hampton ,court ,palace4 #ajeg ,the laws regarding the introduction of lace during this reign continued much the same until #agdi1 when the royal assent was given to an ,act preventing the importation or wear of gold1 silver1 and thread lace manufactured in foreign parts4 #ajeh ,in the meeting of ,nov4 #aj1 #ageb1 at the ,crown1 behind the ,royal ,exchange1 the ,hon4 ,edward ,vernon1 grand president1 in the chair1 it was agreed that the following premiums should be awarded3 ,for the best pair of men's needlework ruffles1 to be produced to the committee in the first week of ,may next1 five guineas2 to the second1 three guineas2 to the third1 two guineas4 ,and for the best pair of ,english bone lace for ladies' lappets1 to be produced to the committee in ,august next1 fifteen guineas2 to the second1 ten guineas2 to the third1 five guineas4--,gentleman's ,magazine4 #ajei ,cardinal1 a loose cloak after the fashion of a cardinal's trollope1 a loose flowing gown open in the front1 worn as a morning dress4--,fairholt4 ,slammerkin1 a sort of loose dress4 ,this ugly word1 in course of time1 was used as an adjective1 to signify untidy4 ,fortunately it is now obsolete4 #ajfj ,don't read history to me1 for that ,i know to be false1 said ,sir ,r4 ,walpole to his son ,horace1 when he offered to read to him in his last illness4 #ajfa ,lady ,m4 ,w4 ,montagu4 ,letter to ,lord ,harvey on the ,king's ,birthday4 ,the working apron1 too1 from ,france1 ,with all its trim appurtenance4 --,mundus ,muliebris4 #ajfc ,goldsmith4 ,life of ,richard ,nash1 of ,bath4 ,london1 #agfb4 #ajfd #agfd4 #ajfe ,gentleman's ,magazine4 #ajff #agfg4 ,an officer of the customs seized nearly #djj worth of ,flanders lace1 artfully concealed in the hollow of a ship's buoy1 on board a ,french trader1 lying off ,iron ,gate4--,annual ,register4 #aggb4 #bg1jjj ells of ,french 7,blois87 lace were seized in the port of ,leigh alone4--,gentleman's ,magazine4 #ajfg ,the turbulent ,bishop of ,rochester1 who was arraigned for his ,jacobite intrigues1 and died in exile at ,paris4 #agca4 #ajfh ,if imported in smaller quantities than twelve yards1 the duty imposed was #b per yard4 ,let the ruffle grace his hand1 ,ruffle1 pride of ,gallic land4 --,the ,beau4 #agee4 ,and dip your wristbands 7,for cuffs you've none7 as comely in the sauce ,as any courtier4 --,beaumont and ,fletcher4 #ajga ,he had retired to the country to be out of the way4 #ajgb ,august1 #aggf4 #ajgc ,the wardrobe of ,george ,,iv4 was estimated at the same sum4 #ajgd ,cowper4 #ajge #ageg4 #ajgf ,monsieur la ,mode4 #agec4 ,let of ruffles many a row ,guard your elbows white as snow4 --,the ,belle4 #agee4 ,gone to a lady of distinction with a ,brussels head and ruffles4--,the ,fool of ,quality4 #agff4 #ajgh ,receipt for ,modern ,dress4 #agec4 #ajgi ,recollections of ,madame d',arblay4 #ajhj ,beaumont and ,fletcher4 ,the ,knight of ,malta4 #ajha ,in coffins with glass tops4 ,some of them date from #agjj4 #ajhb ,in the vault of the ,schleswig-,holstein family at ,sonderburg4 #ajhc ,in the church of ,revel lies the ,duc de ,cro1 a general of ,charles ,,xii41 arrayed in full costume1 with a rich flowing tie of fine guipure2 not that he was ever interred--his body had been seized by his creditors for debt1 and there it still remains4 ,the author of ,letters from a ,lady in ,russia 7#agge71 describing the funeral of a daughter of ,prince ,menzikoff1 states she was dressed in a nightgown of silver tissue1 on her head a fine laced mob1 and a coronet2 round her forehead a ribbon embroidered with her name and age1 etc4 #ajhd ,alluding to this custom of interring ladies of rank in full dress1 ,madame de ,svign writes to her daughter3--,mon ,dieu1 ma chre enfant1 que vos femmes sont sottes1 vivantes et mortes6 ,vous me faites horreur de cette fontange2 quelle profanation6 cela sent le paganisme1 ho6 cela me dgoteroit bien de mourir en ,provence2 il faudroit que du moins je fusse assur qu'on ne m'iroit pas chercher une coffeuse en mme temps qu'un plombier4 ,ah6 vraiment6 fi6 ne parlez plus de cela4--,lettre #fbg4 ,paris1 #ac ,dc1 #afhh4 #ajhe ,laborde4 ,itin4 de l',espagne4 ,again1 the ,duc de ,luynes says3 ,the ,cur of ,st4 ,sulpice related to me the fashion in which the ,duke of ,alva1 who died in ,paris in #agci1 was by his own will interred4 ,a shirt of the finest ,holland1 trimmed with new point lace1 the finest to be had for money2 a new coat of ,vardez cloth1 embroidered in silver2 a new wig2 his cane on the right1 his sword on the left of his coffin4--,mmoires4 #ajhf ,that grave-clothes were lace-trimmed we infer from the following strange announcement in the ,london ,gazette for ,august #abth to #aeth1 #afgh3 ,whereas decent and fashionable lace shifts and ,dressings for the dead1 made of woollen1 have been presented to his ,majesty by ,amy ,potter1 widow 7the first that put the making of such things in practice71 and his ,majesty well liking the same1 hath upon her humble ,petition1 been graciously pleased to give her leave to insert this advertisement1 that it may be known she now wholly applies herself in making both lace and plain of all sorts1 at reasonable prices1 and lives in ,crane ,court in the ,old ,change1 near ,st4 ,paul's ,church ,yard4 ,again1 in ,november of the same year1 we find another advertisement3--,his ,majesty1 to increase the woollen manufacture and to encourage obedience to the late act for burying in woollen1 has granted to ,amy ,potter the sole privilege of making all sorts of woollen laces for the decent burial of the dead or otherwise1 for fourteen years1 being the first inventor thereof4 #ajhg ,betterton's ,history of the ,english ,stage4 ,her kindness to the poet ,savage is well known4 #ajhh ,this seems to have been a spcialit of ,gibbons2 for we find among the treasures of ,strawberry ,hill3 ,a beautiful cravat1 in imitation of lace1 carved by ,gibbons1 very masterly4--,hist4 and ,antiquities of ,twickenham4 ,london1 #agig4 #ajhi ,mrs4 ,piozzi's ,memoirs4 #ajij ,a lady1 who had very fine old lace1 bequeathed her wardrobe and lace to some young friends1 who1 going after her death to take possession of their legacy1 were surprised to find nothing but new lace4 ,on inquiring of the old faithful ,scotch servant what had become of the old needle points1 she said3 ,deed it's aw there1 'cept a wheen auld ,dudds1 black and ragged1 ,i flinged on the fire4 ,another collection of old lace met with an equally melancholy fate4 ,the maid1 not liking to give it over to the legatees in its coffee-coloured hue1 sewed it carefully together1 and put it in a strong soap lye on the fire1 to simmer all night4 ,when she took it out in the morning1 it was reduced to a jelly6 ,medea's caldron had not been more effectual6 #ajia ,cowper4 ,the ,winter ,evening4 #ajib ,bishop ,berkeley1 in ,a ,word to the ,wise1 writes of the ,english labourers in the ,south of ,england on a summer's evening sitting along the streets of the town or village1 each at his own door1 with a cushion before him1 making bone lace1 and earning more in an evening's pastime than an ,irish family would in a whole day4 #ajic ,wells1 bone lace and knitting stockings4--,anderson4 #ajid ,launceston1 where are two schools for forty-eight children of both sexes4 ,the girls are taught to read1 sew1 and make bone lace1 and they are to have their earnings for encouragement4--,magna ,britannia4 #agbj4 ,welsh lace was made at ,swansea1 ,pont-,ardawe1 ,llanwrtyd1 ,dufynock1 and ,brecon1 but never of any beauty1 some not unlike a coarse ,valenciennes4 ,it was much made and worn1 said an aged ,wesleyan lady1 by our 'connexion1' and as a child ,i had all my frocks and pinafores trimmed with it4 ,it was made in the cottages2 each lace-maker had her own pattern1 and carried it out for sale in the country4 #ajie ,at what period1 and by whom the lace manufactory of ,ripon was founded1 we have been unable to ascertain4 ,it was probably a relic of conventual days1 which1 after having followed the fashion of each time1 has now gradually died out4 ,in #ahdb broad ,trolly laces of ,french design and fair workmanship were fabricated in the old cathedral city2 where1 in the poorer localities near the ,bond and ,blossomgate1 young women might be seen working their intricate patterns1 with pillows1 bobbins1 and pins4 ,in #ahfb one old woman alone1 says our informant1 sustains the memory of the craft1 her produce a lace of a small lozenge-shaped pattern 7,fig4 #acb71 that earliest of all designs1 and a narrow edging known in local parlance by the name of fourpenny spot4 #ajif ,till its annexation to the ,crown1 the ,isle of ,man was the great smuggling dept for ,french laces4 ,the traders then removed en masse to the ,channel ,isles1 there to carry on their traffic4 ,an idiot called ,peg the ,ply in ,castletown 7in #ahdb7 was seen working at her pillow on a summer's evening1 the last lace-maker of the island4 ,isle of ,man lace was a simple ,valenciennes edging4 #ajig ,isle of ,wight lace was honoured by the patronage of ,queen ,victoria4 ,the ,princess ,royal1 reports the ,illustrated ,news of ,may1 #ahef1 at the drawing-room1 on her first presentation1 wore a dress of ,newport lace1 her train trimmed with the same4 ,the weariness of incarceration1 when at ,carisbrook1 did not bring on ,charles ,i4 any distaste for rich apparel4 ,among the charges of #afdh1 ,sept4 and ,nov41 we find a sum of nigh #hjj for suits and cloaks of black brocade tabby1 black unshorn velvet1 and black satin1 all lined with plush and trimmed with rich bone lace4 ,some bobbin lace was made in the island1 but what is known as ,isle of ,wight resembles ,nottingham lace4 ,it is made in frames on machine net1 the pattern outlined with a run thread and filled in with needle-point stitches4 ,queen ,victoria had several lace tippets made of ,isle of ,wight lace for the ,royal children1 and always chose the ,mechlin style of rose pattern4 ,now 7#aija7 there are only two or three old women workers left4 #ajih ,lace-making was never the staple manufacture of the ,channel ,islands2 stockings and garments of knitted wool afforded a livelihood to the natives4 ,we have early mention of these articles in the inventories of ,james ,v4 of ,scotland and of ,mary ,stuart4 ,also in those of ,henry ,,viii4 and ,queen ,elizabeth1 in which last we find 7,gt4 ,ward4 ,acc41 #bh #bi7 the charge of #bjs4 for a pair of ,caligarum nexat' de factura ,garneseie1 the upper part and lez clocks worked in silk4 ,at the beginning of the nineteenth century1 when the island was inundated with ,french refugees1 lace-making was introduced with much success into the ,poor-,house of ,st4 ,heliers4 ,it formed the favourite occupation of the ladies of the island1 some of whom 7#ahfc7 retain the patterns and pillows of their mothers1 just as they left them4 ,of late years many of the old raised ,venetian points have been admirably imitated in ,jersey crochet work4 #ajii ,the ,puritans again1 on their part1 transferred the fabric to the other side of the ,atlantic1 where1 says a writer of the eighteenth century1 very much fine lace was made in ,long ,island by the ,protestant settlers4 #aajj ,see ,chap4 ,,xxii4 #aaja ,the richly-laced corporax cloths and church linen are sent to be washed by the ,lady ,ancress1 an ecclesiastical washerwoman1 who is paid by the churchwardens of ,st4 ,margaret's1 ,westminster1 the sum of #h;d42 this ,lady ,ancress1 or ,anchoress1 being some worn-out nun1 who1 since the dissolution of the religious houses1 eked out an existence by the art she had once practised within the convent4 #aajb ,in #agec prizes were awarded for #ad pairs of curious needlework point ruffles4 #aajc ,one society confers a prize of ten guineas upon a gentlewoman for an improvement in manufacture by finishing a piece of lace in a very elegant manner with knitting-needles4 #aajd ,the lace of the three counties is practically equal--that is1 it is all made in a similar fashion1 and the same patterns are met with in each county4 ,the point or net ground is met with in all1 and worked level with the pattern in the same way with bobbins4 #aaje ,who fled from the ,alva persecutions1 and settled1 first at ,cranfield in ,bedfordshire1 then at ,buckingham1 ,stoney ,stratford1 and ,newport-,pagnel1 whence the manufacture extended gradually over ,oxford1 ,northampton1 and ,cambridge4 ,many ,flemish names are still to be found in the villages of ,bedfordshire4 #aajf ,queen ,katherine died #aecf4 #aajg ,she retired to ,ampthill early in #aeca while her appeal to ,rome was pending1 and remained there till the summer of #aecc4 #aajh ,lace of the heavy ,venetian point was already used for ecclesiastical purposes1 though scarcely in general use4 ,the earliest known pattern-books date from fifteen years previous to the death of ,katherine 7#aecf74 #aaji ,dr4 ,nicolas ,harpsfield4 ,douay1 #afbb4 7,in ,latin47 ,again we read that at ,kimbolton she plied her needle1 drank her potions1 and told her beads4--,duke of ,manchester4 ,kimbolton ,papers4 #aaaj ,a lady from ,ampthill writes 7#ahfc73 ,the feast of ,st4 ,katherine is no longer kept4 ,in the palmy days of the trade both old and young used to subscribe a sum of money and enjoy a good cup of ,bohea and cake1 which they called ',cattern' cake4 ,after tea they danced and made merry1 and finished the evening with a supper of boiled stuffed rabbits smothered with onion sauce4 ,the custom of sending about ,cattern cakes was also observed at ,kettering1 in ,northamptonshire4 #aaaa ,tour through the whole ,island of ,great ,britain1 by a ,gentleman4 #c vols4 #agbd-bg4 ,several subsequent editions of ,defoe were published1 with additions1 by ,richardson the novelist in #agcb1 #agdb1 #agfb1 #agfi1 and #aggh4 ,the last is brought down to the present time by a gentleman of eminence in the literary world4 #aaab ,magna ,britannia et ,hibernia1 or a ,new ,survey of ,great ,britain1 collected and composed by an impartial hand1 by the ,rev4 ,thos4 ,owen4 ,lond4 #agbj-ca4 #aaac ,state ,papers ,dom4 ,jac4 ,i4 ,vol4 #adb4 ,p4 ,r4 ,o4 #aaad ,savary and ,peuchet4 #aaae ,worthies4 ,vol4 i41 p4 #acd4 #aaaf ,magna ,britannia1 ,daniel and ,samuel ,lysons4 #ahjf-bb4 #aaag ,describing the lace and edgings of the tradesman's wife1 she has from ,stoney ,stratford the first1 and ,great ,marlow the last4--,the ,complete ,english ,tradesman1 ,dan4 ,defoe4 #agbf4 #aaah ,edition #agfb4 #aaai ,in ,sheahan's ,history of ,bucks1 published in #ahfb1 the following places are mentioned as being engaged in the industry3--,bierton 7black and white lace71 ,cuddington1 ,haddenham1 ,great ,hampden1 ,wendover1 ,gawcott 7black71 ,beachampton1 ,marsh ,gibbon1 ,preston ,bisset1 ,claydon1 ,grendon1 ,dorton1 ,grandborough1 ,oving 7black and white71 ,waddesdon1 ,newport-,pagnell1 ,bletchley1 ,hopton1 ,great ,horwood1 ,bon ,buckhill1 ,fenny ,stratford1 ,hanslope 7where #ejj women and children are employed--about one-third of the population71 ,levendon1 ,great ,sandford1 ,loughton1 ,melton ,keynes1 ,moulsoe1 ,newton ,blossomville1 ,olney1 ,sherrington1 and the adjoining villages1 ,stoke ,hammond1 ,wavendon1 ,great and ,little ,kimble1 ,wooleston1 ,aston ,abbots1 ,swanbourne1 ,winslow1 ,rodnage4 #aabj ,the ,voyage to ,great ,britain of ,don ,manuel ,gonzales1 late ,merchant of the ,city of ,lisbon4--,some say ,defoe wrote this book himself2 it is evidently from the pen of an ,englishman4--,lowndes' ,bibliographers' ,manual4 ,bohn's ,edition4 #aaba ,annual ,register4 #aabb ,see ,britannia ,depicta1 by ,john ,owen1 ,gent4 ,lond4 #agfd1 and others4 #aabc ,in #aghe there appears in the ,gentleman's ,magazine99 ,an essay on the cause and prevention of deformity among the lace-makers of ,bucks and ,north ,hants1 suggesting improved ventilation and various other remedies long since adopted by the lace-working population in all countries4 99 ,in #agfa appeared a previous paper1 to prevent the effects of stooping and vitiated air1 etc4 #aabd ,dict4 of ,commerce4 #aabe ,in ,flanders also these glasses were made and used4 ,the medival 'ourinals' are alike the retorts of the alchemist and the water-globes of the poor ,flemish flax-thread spinners and lace makers4 ,old ,english ,glasses4 ,a4 ,hartshorne4 #aabf ,the larger pins had heads put to them with seeds of galium locally called ,hariffe or goose-grass2 the seeds when fingered became hard and polished4 #aabg ,bobbins are usually made of bone1 wood or ivory4 ,english bobbins are of bone or wood1 and especially in the counties of ,bedford1 ,bucks1 and ,huntingdon1 the set on a lace pillow formed a homely record of their owner's life4 ,the names of her family1 dates and records1 births and marriages and mottoes1 were carved1 burnt1 or stained on the bobbin1 while events of general interest were often commemorated by the addition of a new bobbin4 ,the spangles1 jingles 7or gingles7 fastened to the end of the bobbin have a certain interest2 a waistcoat button and a few coral beads brought from overseas1 a family relic in the shape of an old copper seal1 or an ancient and battered coin--such things as these were often attached to the ring of brass wire passed through a hole in the bobbin4 ,the inscriptions on the bobbins are sometimes burned and afterwards stained1 and sometimes pegged or traced in tiny leaden studs1 and consist of such mottoes as ,love me ,truley 7sic71 ,buy the ,ring1 ,osborne for ,ever1 ,queen ,caroline1 ,let no false ,lover win my heart1 ,to me1 my dear1 you may come near1 ,lovely ,betty1 ,dear ,mother1 and so forth4--,r4 ,e4 ,head4 ,some notes on ,lace-,bobbins4 ,the ,reliquary1 ,july1 #aijj4 #aabh ,too much stress cannot be laid on the importance of using fine linen thread4 ,many well-meant efforts are entirely ruined by the coarse woolly cotton thread used for what ought to be a fine make of lace4 ,that good thread can be got in ,great ,britain is evident from the fact that the ,brussels dealers employ ,english thread1 and sell it to ,venice for the exquisite work of ,burano4 ,needless to say1 no ,englishman has attempted to make a bid for the direct custom of the #h1jjj lace-workers there employed4 #aabi ,catalogue of lace 7,victoria and ,albert ,museum74 #aacj ,the ,conversion and ,experience of ,mary ,hurll'1 or ,hurdle1 of ,marlborough1 a maker of bone lace in this town1 by the ,rev4 ---- ,hughes1 of that town4 #aaca ,waylen's ,history of ,marlborough4 #aacb ,at ,bland1 on the ,stour1 between ,salisbury and ,dorchester1 they made the finest lace in ,england1 valued at #cj per yard4--,universal ,dict4 of ,trade and ,commerce4 #aggd4 #aacc ,much bone lace was made here1 and the finest point in ,england1 equal1 if not superior1 to that of ,flanders1 and valued at #cj per yard till the beginning of this century4--,hutchins' ,hist4 of the ,county of ,dorset4 #bnd ,edition1 #agif4 #aacd ,what this celebrated point was we cannot ascertain4 ,two samplars sent to us as ,blandford point were of geometric pattern resembling the samplar1 ,fig4 #e4 #aace ,in #ageb4 #aacf ,roberts' ,hist4 of ,lyme ,regis4 #aacg ,burd1 ,genest1 ,raymunds1 ,brock1 ,couch1 ,gerard1 ,murck1 ,stocker1 ,maynard1 ,trump1 ,groot1 etc4 #aach ,we may rather infer that laces of silk and coarse thread were already fabricated in ,devonshire1 as elsewhere2 and that the ,flemings1 on their arrival1 having introduced the fine thread1 then spun almost exclusively in their own country1 from that period the trade of bone-lace-making flourished in the southern as well as in the midland counties of ,england 7,mrs4 ,palliser1 #ahfi74 #aaci ,ker's ,synopsis1 written about the year #aefa4 ,two copies of this ,,ms4 exist1 one in the library of ,lord ,haldon at ,haldon ,house 7,co4 ,devon71 the other in the ,british ,museum4 ,this ,,ms4 was never printed1 but served as an authority for ,westcote and others4 #aadj ,she was a daughter of ,john ,flay1 ,vicar of ,buckrell1 near ,honiton1 who by will in #afad bequeaths certain lands to ,jerom ,minify 7sic71 son of ,jerom ,minify1 of ,burwash1 ,sussex1 who married his only daughter4--,prince's ,worthies of ,devon4 #agja4 ,up to a recent date the ,honiton lace-makers were mostly of ,flemish origin4 ,mrs4 ,stocker1 ob4 #agfi2 ,mr4 ,j4 ,stocker1 #aghh1 and four daughters2 ,mrs4 ,mary ,stocker1 #agi-2 ,mr4 ,gerard1 #agii1 and daughter2 ,mrs4 ,lydia ,maynard 7of ,anti-,gallican celebrity71 #aghf2 ,mrs4 ,ann ,brock1 #ahae2 ,mrs4 ,elizabeth ,humphrey1 #agij1 whose family had been in the lace manufacture #aej years and more4 ,the above list has been furnished to the author by ,mrs4 ,frank ,aberdein1 whose grandfather was for many years in the trade4 ,mrs4 ,treadwin1 of ,exeter1 found an old lace-worker using a lace ,turn for winding sticks1 having the date #afgh rudely carved on the foot1 showing how the trade was continued in the same family from generation to generation4 #aada ,view of ,devon4 ,t4 ,westcote4 #aadb ,her bequest is called ,minifie's ,gift4 #aadc ,here follows the numbers of the people in a few places who get their living by making lace4 ,among those quoted in ,devonshire as interesting to compare with the present day are3-- ,coumbraligh #fe1 ,sidmont #cjb1 ,axmouth #gc1 ,sidbury #cba1 ,buckerall #ij1 ,farway #gj1 ,utpotery #aah1 ,branscombe ,beare and ,seaton #cbf1 ,honyton #acda1 ,axminster #fj1 ,otery ,st4 ,mary1 #had4 #aadd ,church ,book of the ,baptist ,chapel of ,lyme ,regis4 #aade ,colyton and ,ottery ,st4 ,mary were among the first4 ,wherever the say or serge decayed1 the lace trade planted itself4 ,in the church of ,colyton1 under a fine canopied tomb1 repose back to back in most unsociable fashion the recumbent figures of ,sir ,john and ,lady ,pole4 ,dame ,elizabeth1 daughter of ,roger ,how1 merchant of ,london1 ob4 #afbc1 wears a splendid cape of three rows of bone lace descending to the waist4 ,her cap is trimmed with the same material4 ,as this lace may be of ,devonshire fabric1 we give a wood-cut of the pattern 7,fig4 #aej74 ,sundry ,flemish names may still be seen above the shop-windows of ,colyton similar to those of ,honiton--,stocker1 ,murch1 ,spiller1 ,rochett1 ,boatch1 ,kettel1 ,woram1 and others4 #aadf ,don ,manuel ,gonzales mentions bone lace among the commodities of ,devon4 #aadg ,the lace manufacture now extends along the coast from the small watering-place of ,seaton1 by ,beer1 ,branscombe1 ,salcombe1 ,sidmouth1 and ,ollerton1 to ,exmouth1 including the ,vale of ,honiton and the towns above mentioned4 #aadh #agec4 #aadi ,complete ,system of ,geography4 ,emanuel ,bowen1 #agdg4 ,this extract is repeated verbatim in ,england's ,gazetteer1 by ,philip ,luckombe4 ,london1 #agij4 #aaej ,died #acih4 #aaea ,the best rseau was made by hand with the needle1 and was much more expensive4 #aaeb ,mrs4 ,aberdein1 of ,honiton1 informed ,mrs4 ,palliser that her father often paid ninety-five guineas per lb4 for the thread from ,antwerp 7#ahfi74 #aaec ,the manner of payment was somewhat ,phoenician1 reminding one of ,queen ,dido and her bargain4 ,the lace ground was spread out on the counter1 and the worker herself desired to cover it with shillings2 and as many coins as found place on her work she carried away as the fruit of her labour4 ,the author once calculated the cost1 after this fashion1 of a small lace veil on real ground1 said to be one of the first ever fabricated4 ,it was #ab inches wide and #cj inches long1 and1 making allowance for the shrinking caused by washing1 the value amounted to #bj1 which proved to be exactly the sum originally paid for the veil4 ,the ground of this veil1 though perfect in its workmanship1 is of a much wider mesh than was made in the last days of the fabric4 ,it was the property of ,mrs4 ,chick4 #aaed ,the last specimen of 'real' ground made in ,devon was the marriage veil of ,mrs4 ,marwood ,tucker4 ,it was with the greatest difficulty workers could be procured to make it4 ,the price paid for the ground alone was #cj guineas 7#ahfi74 #aaee ,with the desire of combining the two interests1 her ,majesty ordered it to be made on the ,brussels 7machine-made7 ground4 #aaef ,a,,maranth1 ,d,,aphne1 ,e,,glantine1 ,l,,ilac1 ,a,,uricula1 ,i,,vy1 ,d,,ahlia1 ,e,,glantine4 #aaeg ,the workers of ,beer1 ,axmouth1 and ,branscombe1 have always been considered the best in the trade4 #aaeh ,exposition ,universelle de #ahfg4 ,rapport du ,jury ,international1 ,dentelles1 par ,felix ,aubry4 #aaei ,for the encouragement of ,agriculture1 ,arts1 ,manufactures1 and ,commerce4 ,the prizes were offered for the best ,sprigs1 ,nosegays1 ,borders for shawls1 veils1 or collars1 ,lappets1 collars and cuffs1 ,pocket-handkerchiefs1 etc41 of good workmanship and design1 worked either in ,flowers1 ,fruits1 ,leaves1 or ,insects1 strictly designed from nature4 ,three prizes were awarded for each description of article4 ,the ,society also offered prizes for small application sprigged veils1 and for the best specimens of braidwork1 in imitation of ,spanish point4 #aafj ,honiton ,lace1 by ,mrs4 ,treadwin4 ,london1 #ahgd4 ,honiton ,lace-making1 by ,devonia1 ,london1 #ahgd4 #aafa ,lappets and scarfs were made of trolly lace from an early date4 ,mrs4 ,delarey1 in one of her letters1 dated #agef1 speaks of a trolly head4 ,trolly lace1 before its downfall1 has been sold at the extravagant price of five guineas a yard4 #aafb ,fifty years since ,devonshire workers still make a ',greek' lace1 as they termed it1 similar to the 'dentelles torchons' so common through the ,continent4 ,the author has seen specimens of this fabric in a lace-maker's old pattern-book1 once the property of her mother 7,mrs4 ,palliser1 #ahfi74 #aafc ,though no longer employed at lace-making1 the boys in the schools at ,exmouth are instructed in crochet work 7#ahfi74 #aafd ,of ,otterton4 #aafe ,in ,woodbury will be found a small colony of lace-makers who are employed in making imitation ,maltese or ,greek lace1 a fabric introduced into ,devon by order of her late ,majesty the ,queen ,dowager on her return from ,malta4 ,the workers copy these coarse geometric laces with great facility and precision4 ,among the various cheap articles to which the ,devonshire workers have of late directed their labours is the tape or braid lace1 and the shops of the country are now inundated with their productions in the form of collars and cuffs 7#ahfi47 #aaff ,the ,honiton pillows are rather smaller than those for ,buckinghamshire lace1 and do not have the multiplicity of starched coverings--only three pill cloths1 one over the top1 and another on each side of the lace in progress2 two pieces of horn called sliders go between to take the weight of the bobbins from dragging the stitches in progress2 a small square pin-cushion is on one side1 and stuck into the pillow is the needle-pin--a large sewing needle in a wooden handle1 and for picking up loops through which the bobbins are placed4 ,the pillow has to be frequently turned round in the course of the work1 so that no stand is used1 and it is rested against a table or doorway2 and formerly1 in the golden days1 in fine weather there would be rows of workers sitting outside their cottages resting their pills against the back of the chair in front4 ,the bobbins used in ,honiton lace-making are delicately-fashioned slender things of smooth1 close-grained wood1 their length averaging about three and a half inches4 ,they have no gingles1 and none of the carving and relief inlayings of the ,buckinghamshire and ,bedfordshire bobbins2 but some of them are curiously stained with a brown pigment in an irregular pattern resembling the mottlings of clouded bamboo or those of tortoise-shell4 #aafg ,the author has visited many lace-schools in ,devon1 and though it might be desired that some philanthropist would introduce the infant school system of allowing the pupils to march and stretch their limbs at the expiration of every hour1 the children1 notwithstanding1 looked ruddy as the apples in their native orchards2 and though the lace-worker may be less robust in appearance than the farm-servant or the ,cheshire milkmaid1 her life is more healthy far than the female operative in our northern manufactories 7#ahge74 #aafh ,a good lace-maker easily earns her shilling a day1 but in most parts of ,devonshire the work is paid by the truck system1 many of the more respectable shops giving one-half in money1 the remaining sixpence to be taken out in tea or clothing1 sold often considerably above their value4 ,other manufacturers--to their shame1 be it told--pay their workers altogether in grocery1 and should the lace-maker1 from illness or any other cause1 require an advance in cash1 she is compelled to give work to the value of fourteen-pence for every shilling she receives4 ,some few houses pay their workers in money 7#ahge74 #aafi ,medals were won at the ,chicago ,world's ,fair for ,devonshire lace by ,mrs4 ,fowler and ,miss ,radford1 of ,sidmouth4 ,the latter has also received the freedom of the ,city of ,london for a beautiful lace fan1 her sprigs being the finest and most exquisite models of flowers and birds it is possible to produce in lace4 ,a third medal was won by the ,italian laces at ,beer4 #aagj ,those held at ,sidbury and ,sidford are very successful1 and the children1 ranging in age from1 nine to fifteen1 come regularly for their lace4 ,it is interesting to watch the improvement in the work of the flys1 the first lesson1 and as a rule each child makes forty to fifty before going on to anything further4 #aaga ,at ,beer1 where fishing is the staple industry1 in bad fish seasons the women can earn more than the men2 and at ,honiton in the hard winter of #ahie the lace-makers kept themselves and their families1 and were spared applying for relief--all honour to their skill and self-helpfulness4 #aagb #aeci4 ,ane uther gowne of purpour satyne with ane braid pasment of gold and silver1 etc4 ,twa ,spanye cloikis of black freis with ane braid pasment of gold and silver4 #aedb4 ,three peces of braid pasmentes of gold and silver4--,inventories of the ,royal ,wardrobe and ,jewel ,house4 #adhh-afjf4 ,edinb4 #ahae4 #aagc #aedb4 ,same ,inv4 #aagd ,in the ,inv4 of the ,earl of ,huntley1 #aeaa-ab1 there is mention of dresses passament d'or4 #aage ,chap4 ,x41 note4 #aecg4 ,james ,v4 and ,lord ,somerville at ,holyrood3--,where are all your men and attendants1 my ,lord8 ,please1 your ,majesty1 they are here--pointing to the lace which was on his son and two pages' dress4 ,the ,king laughed heartily and surveyed the finery1 and bade him ,away with it all1 and let him have his stout band of spears again4 #aagf ,croft's ,excerpta ,antiqua4 ,the ,countess of ,mar1 daughter of the first ,duke of ,lennox and granddaughter by her mother's side to ,marie ,touchet4 ,she was daughter-in-law to the preceptress of ,james ,,vi41 and in #aeic had the honour1 at the baptism of ,prince ,henry1 of lifting the child from his bed and delivering him to the ,duke of ,lennox4 ,a portrait of this lady1 in the high ,elizabethan ruff1 and with a forepart and tucker of exquisite raised ,venice point1 hung 7circ4 #ahgj7 in the drawing-room of the late ,miss ,katherine ,sinclair4 #aagg ,une robe de velours vert couvert de ,broderies1 gimpeures1 et cordons d'or et d'argent1 et borde d'un passement de mme4 ,une robe veluat cramoisi bande de broderie de guimpeure d'argent4 ,une robe de satin blanc chamarre de broderie faite de guimpeure d'or4 ,id4 de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure1 etc4 ,robe de weloux noyr seme de geynpeurs d'or4--,inv4 of ,lillebourg4 #aefa4 #aagh ,chamarre de bisette4--,inv4 of ,lillebourg4 #aefa4 ,ane rabbat of wolvin thread with passmentet with silver4 #aagi ,chap4 ,,iii4 #aahj ,see ,,lacis1 ,chap4 ,,ii4 #aaha ,see ,,needlework1 ,chap4 ,i4 #aahb ,her lace ruffs ,mary appears to have had from ,france1 as we may infer from a letter written by ,walsingham1 at ,paris1 to ,burleigh1 when the ,queen was captive at ,sheffield ,castle1 #aegh3 ,i have of late granted a passport to one that conveyeth a box of linen to the ,queen of ,scots1 who leaveth not this town for three or four days4 ,i think your ,lordship shall see somewhat written on some of the linen contained in the same1 that shall be worth the reading4 ,her ,majesty1 under colour of seeing the fashion of the ruffes1 may cause the several parcels of the linen to be held to the fire1 whereby the writing may appear2 for ,i judge there will be some such matter discovered1 which was the cause why ,i did the more willingly grant the passport4 #aahc ,in #aege4 #aahd ,there was some demur about receiving the nightcaps1 for ,elizabeth declared that great commotions had taken place in the ,privy ,council because she had accepted the gifts of the ,queen of ,scots4 ,they therefore remained for some time in the hands of ,la ,mothe1 the ambassador1 but were finally accepted4--,miss ,strickland4 #aahe ,inventaire of our ,soveraine ,lord and his dearest moder4 #aegh4--,record ,office1 ,edinburgh4 #aahf ,records of ,life1 by ,miss ,h4 ,pigott4 #ahci4 #aahg ,similar to the ,new ,year's ,gift of the ,baroness ,aletti to ,queen ,elizabeth3-- ,a veil of lawn cutwork flourished with silver and divers colours4--,nichols' ,royal ,progresses4 #aahh ,twa quaiffs ane of layn and uther of woving thread4 ,ane quaiff of layn with twa cornettes sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold and silver4 ,twa pair of cornettes of layn sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold4 ,ane wovin collar of thread passementit with incarnit and blew silk and silver4--,inv4 of #aegh4 #aahi ,ane rabbat of cuttit out werk and gold and cramoisie silk with the handis 7cuffs7 thereof4 ,ane rabbat of cuttit out werk of gold and black silk4 ,ane rabbat of cuttit out werk with purpure silk with the handis of the same4--,ibid4 #aaij ,twa towell claiths of holane claith sewitt with cuttit out werk and gold4 ,four napkinnes of holane claith and cammaraye sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold and silver and divers cullours of silk4--,ibid4 #aaia ,published by ,prince ,labanoff4 ,recueil de ,lettres de ,marie ,stuart4 ,t4 vii41 p4 #bdg4 #aaib ,marriage ,expenses of ,james ,,vi41 #aehi4 ,published by the ,bannatyne ,club4 #aaic ,accounts of the ,great ,chamberlain of ,scotland4 #aeij4--;,bannatyne ,club4 #aaid ,in #aeha1 #aeig1 and #afba4 #aaie ,the same privilege was extended to their wives1 their eldest sons with their wives1 and their eldest daughters1 but not to the younger children4 #aaif #afcc4 ,in the ,account of ,expenses for the young ,lord of ,lorne1 we find3-- #b ells ,cambridg' at #hs4 the ell for ruffles1 #afs4 #b ells of ,perling at #cjs41 the uther at #ccs4 #d;d41 #c #cs4 #d;d4--,innes' ,sketches of ,early ,scotch ,history4 #aaig ,january1 #afhf4 #aaih ,in #agja1 when ,mistress ,margaret1 daughter of the ,baron of ,kilravock1 married1 'flounced muslin and lace for combing cloths1' appear in her outfit4--,innes' ,sketches4 #aaii ,in a pamphlet published #agjb1 entitled1 ,an ,accompt carried between ,england and ,scotland1 alluding to the encouragement of the yarn trade1 the author says3 ,this great improvement can be attested by the industry of many young gentlewomen that have little or no portion1 by spinning one pound of fine lint1 and then breaking it into fine flax and whitening it4 ,one gentlewoman told me herself that1 by making an ounce or two of it into fine bone lace1 it was worth1 or she got1 twenty pounds ,scots for that part of it2 and might1 after same manner1 five or eight pounds sterling out of a pound of lint1 that cost her not one shilling sterling4 ,now if a law were made not to import any muslin 7her ,grace the ,duchess of ,hamilton still wears our finest ,scots muslin as a pattern to others--she who may wear the finest apparel7 and ,holland lace1 it would induce and stir up many of all ranks to wear more fine ',scots lace1' which would encourage and give bread to many young gentlewomen and help their fortunes4 ,then1 among the products of ,scotland by which we may balance any nation1 the same writer mentions our white thread1 and making laces4 ,on ,tuesday1 the #afth inst41 will begin the roup of several sorts of merchants' goods1 in the first story of the ,turnpyke1 above the head of ,bells ,wynd1 from #i to #ab and #b till #e4 ',white thread lace4'--,edinburgh ,courant4 #agjf4 #abjj ,see ,chap4 ,,xxv41 ,queen ,anne4 #abja ,edinburgh ,advertiser4 #agfd4 #abjb #agde4 ,the following description of ,lady ,lovat1 wife of the rebel ,simon1 is a charming picture of a ,scotch gentlewoman of the last century3-- ,when at home her dress was a red silk gown with ruffled cuffs and sleeves puckered like a man's shirt1 a fly cap of lace encircling her head1 with a mob cap laid across it1 falling down on the cheeks2 her hair dressed and powdered2 a lace handkerchief round the neck and bosom 7termed by the ,scotch a ,befong7--a white apron edged with lace4444 ,any one who saw her sitting on her chair1 so neat1 fresh1 and clean1 would have taken her for a queen in wax-work placed in a glass case4--,heart of ,midlothian4 ,sir ,walter ,scott1 whose descriptions are invariably drawn from memory1 in his ,chronicles of the ,canongate1 describes the dressing-room of ,mrs4 ,bethune ,balliol as exhibiting a superb mirror framed in silver filigree-work1 a beautiful toilet1 the cover of which was of ,flanders lace4 #abjc ,heart of ,midlothian4 #abjd ,statistical ,account of ,scotland4 ,sir ,john ,sinclair4 ,edinburgh1 #agib4 ,vol4 ii41 #aih4 #abje ,edinburgh ,amusement4 #abjf #agee4 ,premium #b offered4 ,for the whitest1 best1 and finest lace1 commonly called ,hamilton lace1 and of the best pattern1 not under two yards in length and not under three inches in breadth4 #abjg ,the ,edinburgh ,society did not confine their rewards to ,hamilton lace2 imitation of ,dresden1 catgut lace1 gold1 silver1 and even livery lace1 each met with its due reward4 #ageh4 ,for imitation of lace done on catgut1 for ruffles1 a gold medal to ,miss ,anne ,cant1 ,edinburgh4 ,for a piece of livery lace done to perfection to ,j4 ,bowie1 #b guineas4 ,to ,w4 ,bowie for a piece of gold and silver lace1 #b guineas4 #abjh #agfi4 ,pennant1 in his ,tour1 mentions among the manufactures of ,scotland thread laces at ,leith1 ,hamilton and ,dalkeith4 #abji ,in #agfb1 ,dec4 #i1 a schoolmistress in ,dundee1 among thirty-one accomplishments in which she professes to instruct her pupils1 such as waxwork1 boning fowls without cutting the back1 etc41 enumerates1 ,no4 #ba1 ,true point or tape lace1 as well as washing ,flanders lace and point4 ,again1 in #agfd1 ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,mitchell advertise in their boarding-school lacework and the washing of blonde laces2 the pupils' own laces washed and got up at home4 ,terms #bd4 ,at ,miss ,glen's boarding-school in the ,trunk ,close1 #agfh1 young ladies are taught white and coloured seam and washing of lace--gratis4 ,these lady-teachers were not appointed in ,scotland without giving due proofs of their capacity4 ,in #ageh the magistrates and council of ,aberdeen1 being unanimous as to the strict morality1 ,dresden work1 modesty1 and catgut lace-making1 etc41 of ,miss ,betsey ,forbes1 elected her to the office of schoolmistress of the city4 ,in ,the ,cottagers of ,glenburnie a lady1 ,mrs4 ,mason1 tells a long story of the young laird having torn a suit of lace she was busied in getting up4 #abaj ,edinburgh ,advertiser4 #abaa #aggd4 ,several punds of badly-spun yarn was burnt by the stamp master in ,montrose4 ,this announcement constantly occurs4 #abab ,about this period a ,mr4 ,brotherton1 of ,leith1 seems to have made a discovery which was but a prelude to the bobbin net4 ,it is thus described in the ,weekly ,magazine of #aggb3--;,a new invention has lately been discovered by ,mr4 ,brotherton1 in ,leith1 for working black silk lace or white thread lace on a loom1 to imitate any pattern whatever1 and the lace done in this way looks fully as well as if sewed1 and comes much cheaper4 ,it is done any breadth1 from three inches to three-quarters of a yard wide4 #abac ,in #agge ,dallas1 ,barclay ,co41 advertise a selling off of fine point1 ,brussels thread1 blond1 and black laces of all kinds1 silver double edged lace1 etc4--,edinburgh ,advertiser4 #agge4 ,black blonde and thread laces1 catguts of all sorts1 just arrived from the ,india ,house in ,london in the ,canongate4--,caledonian ,mercury4 ,fashions for ,january2 dresses trimmed with ,brussels point or ,mignonette4--,ibid4 ,same year4 #abad ,madame ,puteau carries on a lace manufacture after the manner of ,mechlin and ,brussels4 ,she had lately twenty-two apprentices from the ,glasgow ,hospital4444 ,mrs4 ,puteau has as much merit in this branch as has her husband in the making of fine thread4 ,this he manufactures of such a fineness as to be valued at #aj the pound weight4--,essays on the ,trade1 ,commerce1 ,manufactures1 ,fisheries1 etc41 of ,scotland4 ,david ,loch4 #aggh4 #abae ,if you look at the wardrobes of your grandmother1 you will perceive what revolutions have happened in taste of mankind for laces and other fineries of that sort4 ,how many suits of this kind do you meet with that cost amazing sums1 which are now1 and have long since been1 entirely useless4 ,in our own day did we not see that in one year ,brussels laces are most in fashion and purchased at any price1 while the next perhaps they are entirely laid aside1 and ,french or other thread laces1 or fine sewings1 the names of which ,i know not1 highly prized4--,observations on the ,national ,industry of ,scotland4 ,anderson4 #aggh4 #abaf ,lace-making at ,hamilton is now a thing of the past1 replaced in the nineteenth century by a tambour network for veils1 scarfs and flounces4 #abag ,essay on the ,dress of the ,early ,irish4 ,j4 ,c4 ,walker4 #aghh4 #abah ,the ,image of ,irelande1 by ,jhon ,derricke4 #aegh4 #abai ,in #aefb4 ,see ,camden4 ,hist4 ,eliz4 #abbj ,henry ,,viii4 #aecg4 ,against ,irish fashions4 ,not to weare any shirt1 smock1 kerchor1 bendel1 neckerchour1 mocket1 or linen cappe colored or dyed with saffron1 and not to use more than seven yards of linen in their shirts or smocks4 #abba #d ,edw4 ,,iv41 ,harl ,,mss4 ,no4 #adai4 b4-g4 #did4 #abbb ,that lace ruffs soon appeared in ,ireland may be proved by the effigy on a tomb still extant in the ,abbey of ,clonard1 in which the ,dillon arms are conspicuous1 and also by paintings of the ,st4 ,lawrence family1 circ4 #aeaa1 preserved at ,howth ,castle4 ,in the portrait at ,muckruss of the ,countess of ,desmond she is represented with a lace collar4 ,it was taken1 as stated at the back of the portrait1 as she appeared at the court of ,king ,james1 #afad1 and in ye #adjth year of her age4 ,thither she went to endeavour to reverse the attainder of her house4 #abbc ,at the end of the last century there lived at ,creaden1 near ,waterford1 a lady of the name of ,power1 lineal descendant of the kings of ,munster1 and called the ,queen of ,creaden4 ,she affected the dress of the ancient ,irish4 ,the border of her coif was of the finest ,irish-made ,brussels lace2 her jacket of the finest brown cloth trimmed with gold lace2 her petticoat of the finest scarlet cloth bordered with a row of broad gold lace2 all her dress was of ,irish manufacture4 #abbd ,gentleman's and ,citizen's ,almanack1 by ,g4 ,watson4 ,dublin1 #ageg4 #abbe ,the freedom of the city of ,dublin was also conferred upon her1 presented in due form in a silver box as a mark of esteem for her great charities and constant care of the ,foundling children in the city workhouse4--,dublin ,freeman's ,journal1 ,july #cjth1 #agfe4 #abbf ,gentleman's and ,citizen's ,almanack1 by ,samuel ,watson4 #aggc4 #abbg ,the ,lady ,arabella ,denny died #agib1 aged #he2 she was second daughter of ,thomas ,fitzmaurice1 ,earl of ,kerry4 ,the ,irish ,academy1 in acknowledgment of her patriotic exertions1 offered a prize of #ajj guineas for the best monody on her death4 ,it was gained by ,john ,macaulay1 ,esq4--,dublin ,freeman's ,journal1 ,july #bjth1 #agff4 #abbh ,wakefield writes in #ahab3 ,lace is not manufactured to a large extent in ,ireland4 ,i saw some poor children who were taught weaving by the daughters of a clergyman1 and ,mr4 ,tighe mentions a school in ,kilkenny where twelve girls were instructed in the art4 ,at ,abbey-leix there is a lace manufacture1 but the quantity made is not of any importance4--,account of ,ireland4 ,statistical and ,political4 ,edw4 ,wakefield4 #ahab4 #abbi ,pall ,mall ,gazette1 ,may #hth1 #ahig4 #abcj ,walker was a man of literary and artistic tastes1 and educated for the ,church1 but1 marrying the daughter of a lace-manufacturer1 he set up in that business in ,essex1 working for the ,london wholesale trade4 ,he removed next to ,limerick1 where he continued till #ahda1 when he sold the business1 but his successor becoming bankrupt1 he never received the purchase money1 and died #ahdb1 his ingenuity and industry ill-rewarded4 ,in some work 7we have lost the reference7 it is stated that ,coggeshall1 in ,essex1 made a tambour lace1 a sort of medium between lace and embroidery4 ,could this be ,walker's manufacture8 #abca ,in #ahee the number of workers employed numbered #a1ejj4 ,in #ahfi there were less than #ejj4 ,in #ahfi ,mrs4 ,palliser writes of the tambour lace industry3 ,the existing depression of the trade has been partly caused by the emigration of girls to ,america and the colonies1 while glove-making and army clothing employ the rest2 and indeed the manufacture aiming only at cheapness had produced a lace of inferior quality1 without either novelty or beauty of design1 from which cause ,limerick lace has fallen into disrepute4 #abcb ,no account of ,limerick lace would be complete which does not make some reference to the work of the ,sisters of ,mercy at ,kinsale1 ,co4 ,cork1 where so much is now being done to revive those industries which were originally started with the object of coping with the famine of #ahdf4 ,this revival is largely due to ,mr4 ,a4 ,s4 ,cole1 who originally suggested the establishment of an art class in connection with ,south ,kensington1 with ,mr4 ,brennar1 of the ,cork ,school of ,art1 as its master4 ,the studio is in connection with the workroom1 which secures constant touch between the designing1 alteration1 and adaptation of patterns and their execution4 7,pall ,mall ,gazette1 ,may #hth1 #ahig47 #abcc ,various schools have been established throughout ,ireland4 ,lady de ,vere taught the mistress of a school on her own demesne at ,curragh1 ,co4 ,limerick1 the art of making application flowers1 giving her own ,brussels lace as patterns4 ,the work was so good as soon to command a high price1 and the late ,queen of the ,belgians actually purchased a dress of it at ,harding's1 and took it back with her to ,brussels1 ,the fabric is known by the name of ,irish or ,curragh point4 ,the school set up at ,belfast by the late ,jane ,clarke exhibited in #ahea beautiful imitations of the old ,spanish and ,italian points2 amongst others a specimen of the fine raised ,venetian point1 which can scarcely be distinguished from the original4 ,it is now in the ,vict4 and ,albert ,museum 7#ahfi74 #abcd ,from the tradition that a ,jesuit procured the first ,venetian lace pattern used in ,ireland4 #abce ,it was in the famine period that the ,rector of ,headford1 ,co4 ,galway1 brought about a revival of the pillow lace1 which was known to a few women in the county--taught1 according to the tradition1 by a soldier from foreign parts at some unknown date4 ,this work is now reviving1 thanks to the energetic care of ,mrs4 ,dawson4 #abcf ,mr4 ,a4 ,s4 ,cole gives the following classification of ,irish laces3-- ,there are seven sorts of ,irish lace4 #a4 ,flat needle-point lace4 #b4 ,raised needle-point lace4 #c4 ,embroidery on net1 either darning or chain-stitch4 #d4 ,cut cambric or linen work in the style of guipure or appliqu lace4 #e4 ,drawn thread-work in the style of ,reticella1 and ,italian cut points4 #f4 ,pillow lace in imitation of ,devon lace4 #g4 ,crochet4 #abcg ,history of ,machine-,wrought ,hosiery and ,lace ,manufacture4 ,w4 ,felkin4 ,london1 #ahfg4 #abch ,see ,,germany4 #abci ,an open stitch on stockings1 called the ,derby rib1 had been invented by ,jedediah ,strutt1 in #ageh4 #abdj ,by ,rev4 ,william ,lee1 of ,calverton 7,nottinghamshire74 ,the romantic story is well known2 but whether actuated1 as usually stated1 by pique at the absorbing attention paid to her knitting by a lady1 when he was urging his suit--or1 as others more amiably affirm1 by a desire to lighten the labour of his wife1 who was obliged to contribute to their joint support by knitting stockings--certain it is that it was he who first conceived the idea of the stocking-frame1 and completed it about #aehi4 ,his invention met with no support from ,queen ,elizabeth1 so ,lee went to ,france1 where he was well received by ,henry ,,iv42 but the same year ,henry was assassinated1 and the ,regent withdrawing her protection1 ,lee died of grief and disappointment4 ,the arms of the ,framework ,knitters' ,company 7,fig4 #afb7 are a stocking-frame1 having for supporters ,william ,lee in full canonicals and a female holding in her hand thread and a knitting-needle4 ,after ,lee's death his brother returned to ,england1 where ,lee's invention was then appreciated4 ,stocking-making became the fashion1 everyone tried1 it1 and people had their portraits taken with gold and silver needles suspended round their necks4 #abda ,vandyke had also appended the chain to his stocking-frame1 and the zigzags formed by the ribs of his stockings were called ,vandyke1 hence the term now generally applied to all indented edges4 #abdb ,mechlin net was disused in #ahai from its too great elasticity4 #abdc ,the bobbins on which the thread is wound for the weft consist of two circular copper plates riveted together1 and fixed upon a small carriage or frame which moves backwards and forwards like a weaver's shuttle4 #abdd ,the ,old ,loughboro' employed sixty movements to form one mesh--a result now obtained by twelve4 ,it produced #a1jjj meshes a minute--then thought a wonderful achievement1 as by the pillow only five or six can be obtained4 ,a good circular machine now produces #cj1jjj in the same time4 ,the quality of bobbin net depends upon the smallness of the meshes1 their equality in size1 and the regularity of the hexagons4 #abde ,bobbin net is measured by the rack1 which consists of #bdj meshes4 ,this mode of counting was adopted to avoid the frequent disagreements about measure which arose between the master and the workmen in consequence of the elasticity of the net4 ,the exchange of linen to cotton thread was the source of great regret to the ,roman ,catholic clergy1 who by ecclesiastical law can only wear albs of flax4 #abdf ,this association was formed by ,ludlam1 or ,general ,ludd1 as he was called1 a stocking-frame worker at ,nottingham in #ahaa1 when prices had fallen4 ,the ,luddites1 their faces covered with a black veil1 armed with swords and pistols1 paraded the streets at night1 entered the workshops1 and broke the machines with hammers4 ,a thousand machines were thus destroyed4 ,soon the net-workers joined them and made a similar destruction of the bobbin net machines4 ,although many were punished1 it was only with the return of work that the society disappeared in #ahag4 #abdg ,heathcoat represented ,tiverton from #ahcd to #ahei1 colleague of ,lord ,palmerston4 ,steam power was first introduced by ,mr4 ,j4 ,lindley in #ahae-af1 but did not come into active operation till #ahbj2 it became general #ahbb-bc4 #abdh ,mc,culloch4 #abdi ,the most extraordinary changes took place in the price of the finished articles4 ,lace which was sold by ,heathcoat for #e guineas a yard soon after the taking out of his patent can now be equalled at eighteenpence a yard2 quillings1 as made by a newly-constructed machine in #ahaj1 and sold at #ds4 #f;d41 can now be equalled and excelled at #a;d4 a yard2 while a certain width of net which brought #ag per piece #bj years ago is now sold for #gs4 7#ahdc74 ,progressive value of a square yard of plain cotton bobbin net3 s4 s4 d4 #ahji #e #j #ahcj #b #j #ahac #b #j #ahcc #a #d #ahae #a #aj #ahcf #j #aj #ahah #a #j #ahdb #j #f #ahba #j #ab #ahej #j #d #ahbd #j #h #ahef #j #c #ahbg #j #d #ahfb #j #c ,histoire du ,tulle et des ,dentelles mcaniques en ,angleterre et en ,france1 par ,s4 ,ferguson fils4 ,paris1 #ahfb4 ,bobbin net and lace are cleaned from the loose fibres of the cotton by the ingenious process of gassing1 as it is called1 invented by the late ,mr4 ,samuel ,hall1 of ,nottingham4 ,a flame of gas is drawn through the lace by means of a vacuum above4 ,the sheet of lace passes to the flame opaque and obscured by loose fibre1 and issues from it bright and clear1 not to be distinguished from lace made of the purest linen thread1 and perfectly uninjured by the flame4--,journal of the ,society of ,arts4 ,jan41 #ahfd4 #abej ,in #ahbf ,mr4 ,huskisson's reduction of the duty on ,french tulle caused so much distress in ,leicester and ,nottingham1 that ladies were desired to wear only ,english tulle at court2 and in #ahca ,queen ,adelaide appeared at one of her balls in a dress of ,english silk net4 #abea ,john ,hindres1 in #afef1 first established a stocking-frame in ,france4 #abeb ,the net produced was called ,tulle simple et double de ,lyon et de ,vienne4 ,the net was single loops1 hence the name of single press1 given to these primitive frames4 #abec ,in #ahja ,george ,armitage took a point net machine to ,antwerp1 and made several after the same model1 thus introducing the manufacture into ,belgium4 ,he next went to ,paris1 but the wholesale contraband trade of ,hayne left him no hope of success4 ,he afterwards went to ,prussia to set up net and stocking machines4 ,at the age of eighty-two he started for ,australia1 where he died1 in #aheg1 aged eighty-nine4 #abed ,the great difficulty encountered by the ,french manufacturers consisted in the cotton4 ,france did not furnish cotton higher than ,no4 #gj2 the ,english ranges from #afj to #bjj4 ,the prohibition of ,english cotton obliged them to obtain it by smuggling until #ahcd1 when it was admitted on paying a duty4 ,now they make their own1 and are able to rival ,nottingham in the prices of their productions4 ,a great number of ,nottingham lace-makers have emigrated to ,calais4 #abee ,the ,caen blond first suggested the idea4 #abef ,the first net frame was set up at ,brussels in #ahja4 ,others followed at ,termonde1 #ahag2 ,ghent1 #ahbh2 ,sainte ,fosse1 etc4 #abeg ,d4 ,wyatt4 #abeh ,mr4 ,ferguson1 the inventor of the bullet-hole1 square net 7tulle carr71 and wire-ground 7point de champ ou de ,paris71 had transferred his manufacture1 in #ahch1 from ,nottingham to ,cambrai1 where1 in partnership with ,m4 ,jourdan1 he made the dentelle de ,cambrai1 and in #aheb the lama lace1 which differs from the ,cambrai inasmuch as the weft 7trame7 is made of mohair instead of silk4 ,mr4 ,ferguson next established himself at ,amiens1 where he brought out the ,yak1 another mixed lace4 #abei ,the first patents were3-- #ahcf4 ,hind and ,draper took out one in ,france1 and #ahcg in ,england4 #ahch4 ,ferguson takes a patent at ,cambrai under the name of his partner ,jourdan4 #ahci4 ,crofton4 #ahda4 ,houston and ,deverill1 for the application of the ,jacquard to the ,leaver machine4 ,the great manufactures of ,nottingham and ,calais are made on the ,leaver ,jacquard frame4 ,the first patterned net was produced1 #aghj1 by ,e4 ,frost1 the embroidery made by hand4 #abfj ,cantor ,lectures on the ,art of ,lace-,making4 ,a4 ,s4 ,cole4 #ahhj4 #abfa ,the machines now in use are the ,circular1 ,leaver1 ,transverse ,warp and ,pusher4 ,out of #c1eeb machines computed to be in ,england in #ahfb #b1ddh were at ,nottingham4--,international ,exhibition1 ,juror's ,report4 #abfb ,daphne lagetta4 #abfc ,he makes a paste of the plant which is the usual food of the caterpillar1 and spreads it thinly over a stone or other flat substance2 then with a camel's-hair pencil dipped in olive oil he draws upon the coating of paste the pattern he wishes the insects to leave open4 ,the stone being placed in an inclined position1 the caterpillars99 are laid at the bottom1 and the animals eat and spin their way up to the top1 carefully avoiding every part touched by the oil1 but devouring the rest of the paste4--,encyclopdia ,britannica4 99 ,phalna pandilla4 #abfd ,two interesting papers were published in the ,gazette des ,beaux ,arts for #ahfc and #ahfd1 entitled1 ,essai bibliographique sur les anciens dessins de dentelles1 modles de tapisseries1 patrons de broderies et publis le xvi4 et le xvii4 sicle1 c1 by the ,marquis ,girolamo d',addo1 of ,milan4 #abfe ,cambridge ,university ,library4 #abff ,paris1 ,bibliothque ,nat4 ,gravures1 ,l4 h4 #ac d499 #abfg ,bib4 ,nat4 ,v4 #ahig499--;,genoa4 ,cav4 ,merli1 #aebh 7874 #abfh ,paris1 ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1ieb499 #abfi ,oxford1 ,bib4 ,bodleian4 #abgj ,milan1 ,cavaliere ,bertini4 #abga ,venice1 ,library of ,st4 ,mark4 #abgb ,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 ,l4 h4 #ac4 e499 #abgc ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1iea499 #abgd ,silvestre1 ,marques ,typographiques des ,imprimeurs en ,france1 depuis #adgj4 ,paris1 #ahec-fa4 #abge ,quoted in ,cat4 ,cappi1 of ,bologna1 #ahbi4 #abgf ,quoted in ,cat4 ,cappi1 of ,bologna1 #ahbi4 #abgg ,ibid4 #abgh ,ibid4 #abgi ,cat4 ,bib4 ,heber41 part vi41 p4 #beh4 ,no4 #c1ead4 #abhj ,paris1 ,bib4 ,sainte-,genevive4 ,v4 #fcd499 ,bound in one volume with the three following4 7,nos4 #af1 #ag1 and #ah47--;,catalogue de ,livres provenant de la ,bibliothque de ,m4 ,l4 ,d4 ,d4 ,l4 ,v4 7,duke de ,la ,vallire74 ,paris1 #agfc4 ,t4 xi41 ,no4 #b1bjd4 #abha ,bib4 ,ste4 ,genevive4 ,v4 #fcd499--;,bib4 de l',arsenal4 ,no4 #aa1iec499--;,cat4 d',estres4 ,paris1 #agdj-df4 ,no4 #h1hdc4c4 #abhb ,bib4 ,ste4 ,genevive4 ,v4 #fcd499--;,bib4 de l',arsenal4 ,no4 #aa1iec499--;,cat4 d',estres4 ,no4 #h1hdc4 #a4 #abhc ,bib4 ,ste4 ,genevive4 ,v4 #fcd499--;,bib4 de l',arsenal4 ,no4 #aa4iec499 #abhd ,paris1 ,bib4 ,baron ,jrme ,pichon499 #abhe ,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 ,l4 h4 #d499 #abhf ,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 ,l4 h4 #d4 a499--,catalogo ragionato dei libri posseduti dal ,conte di ,cicognara4 ,pisa1 #ahba4 ,no4 #a1hah4 #abhg ,library ,v4 and ,a4 ,museum4--,venice1 ,lib4 ,st4 ,mark1--,milan1 ,bib4 ,marquis d',adda4 #abhh ,milan1 ,bib4 ,marquis ,g4 d',adda4 #abhi ,rome1 ,bib4 ,prince ,massimo4 #abij ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1ied 7with ,d4 de ,sera7499 #abia ,genoa1 ,cav4 ,merli4 #abib ,quoted by ,cav4 ,merli4 #abic ,florence4 ,m4 ,bigazzi4 #abid ,paris1 ,bib4 ,nat4 ,milan1 ,bib4 ,belgiosa and ,marquis d',adda4 #abie ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1iec499--;,bologna1 ,bib4 ,comm4--,cat4 d',estres4 #hhdc4 ,no4 #b4 #abif ,mr4 ,e4 ,arnold4 #abig ,royal ,library1 ,munich4 #abih ,cat4 ,cicognara4 #aehc4 ,no4 #d4 #abii ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 ,no4 #aa1iec499--,mr4 ,e4 ,arnold4 #acjj ,florence1 ,m4 ,bigazzi4 #acja ,cat4 ,cicognara4 #aehc4 ,no4 #a4 ,bound in one volume1 with six others4 #acjb ,ibid4 #aehc4 ,no4 #e4 #acjc ,cat4 ,cicognara4 #aehc4 ,no4 #f4 #acjd ,ibid4 #aehc4 ,no4 #g4 #acje ,cat4 ,cicognara4 ,no4 #ag #acjf ,ibid4 #aehc4 ,no4 #c4 #acjg ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1iec499 #acjh ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1iec499--,mrs4 ,stisted4 ,bagni di ,lucca4 #acji ,bib4 ,nat4 ,v4 #aija499--;,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1igc499--;,cat4 d',estres4 #acaj ,bib4 ,nat4 ,v4 #aija499--;,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1igc499--;,cat4 d',estres4 #acaa ,trezola1 in the ,riviera dialect1 signifies a plait-tresse4 ,porta i capei in trezola4 7,she wears her hair plaited47 #acab ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1iee bis199 with ,vera ,perfettione and ,fiori of ,f4 ,franceschi1 and ,corona of ,vecellio4 #acac ,quoted by ,willemin4 #acad ,quoted in ,art4 ,tricot et ,travaux des ,dames4 #acae ,bib4 ,m4 d',adda4 #acaf ,dresden1 ,new ,museum for ,art and ,industry4 ,communicated by ,mr4 ,gruner4 #acag ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1ied499 #acah ,milan4 ,bib4 ,marquis ,girolamo d',adda4 #acai ,bib4 ,rouen4 ,no4 #acac4 ,both ,parts in one vol499 #acbj ,we have received notice of there being a copy of the original edition at ,turin1 in the ,library of the ,university4 #acba ,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 ,l4 h4 #b499 7with ,part ,i473 ,ex ,bibliotheca illustrissimi ,johannis d',estres ,cameracensis ,archiepiscopi designati quam ,monasterio ,st4 ,germani ,pratis legavit4 ,anno #agah4 #acbb ,brussels1 ,bib4 ,roy4 ,m4 ,alvin1 ,conservateur en ,chef4 #acbc ,bib4 ,ste4 ,genevive4 ,v4 #fcd499--;,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 ,l4 h4 #b4 b499 #acbd ,bib4 ,ste4 ,genevive 7with #ast ,part7499--,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 ,l4 h4 #b4 b4 7with #ast ,part7499 #acbe ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1ied bis499 #acbf ,british ,museum4 ,grenville ,lib4 #behd499 #acbg ,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 ,l4 h4 #a4 a499 #acbh ,brussels1 ,bib4 ,roy4--,cat4 ,cicognara4 ,no4 #ahbb4 #acbi ,quoted in ,watt's ,bibliographia ,britannica4 #accj ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 ,no4 #aa1ied ter499 #acca ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1iee bis499--,bib4 ,bodleian4 #accb ,ibid4 #accc ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1iee99 7with ,books #b and #c74 ,mazzette means detached bouquets--sprigs4 #accd ,rouen1 ,bib4 ,bound in one vol4 with the three parts of the ,corona499 #acce ,communicated by ,mr4 ,gruner4 #accf ,note of ,m4 ,leber1 who gives the dates of the dedication of the ,rouen copy as follows3--,b4 #a1 #bj ,jan42 ,b4 #b1 #bd ,jan42 ,b4 #c1 #ae ,june1 all #aeia4 ,the ,gioiello1 #aj ,nov41 #aeib4 ,the vol4 containing the two works has #aja plates1 in addition to #aj leaves of titles1 dedications1 etc4 #accg ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 #acch ,brussels1 ,bib4 ,royale4 ,jean de ,glen is also author of a work entitled ,des ,habits1 ,moeurs1 ,ceremonies1 ,faons de faire1 anciennes modernes du ,monde1 par ,j4 de ,glen1 ,linger4 ,lige4 ,j4 de ,glen4 #afja4 ,in-#h4 #acci ,lyon4 ,m4 ,yemenis4 #acdj ,turin1 ,count ,manzoni4 #acda ,berlin1 ,royal ,library4 #acdb ,dresden1 ,new ,museum of ,art and ,industry4 #acdc ,bib4 ,nat4 ,v4 #aijb199 and ,grav4 ,l4 h4 #c499--;,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1ief499--;,bib4 ,ste4 ,genevive499 #acdd ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 #acde ,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 ,b4 c4 #bb4 ,vinciolo499 #acdf ,catalogue des ,livres de feu ,m4 ,picard4 #aghj4 ,no4 #dee4 #acdg ,brussels1 ,bib4 ,royale4 #acdh ,nuremberg1 ,german ,museum4 #acdi ,jew's stitch is given both by ,sibmacher and ,latomus4 7,no4 #ie47 ,we do not know what it is4 #acej ,cited by ,cav4 ,merli1 in his ,origine delle ,trine4 #acea ,cat4 ,evans1 ,strand4 #aceb ,paris1 ,muse de ,cluny499 #acec ,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 ,l4 h4 #d4 b994--,nuremberg1 ,german ,museum4 #aced ,stockholm4 ,royal ,library4 7,communicated by the librarian1 ,mr4 ,h4 ,wieselgren47 ,in the same library is a work1 without title-page or date1 for broderies et de tous autres besongnant l'aiguille1 by ,hieronymus ,cock1 containing1 with designs of every description1 a few patterns for ,spanish point of great beauty4 #acee ,bib4 ,baron ,j4 ,pichon1 #b copies499--,cat4 d',estres4--,bib4 ,nat4 ,grav4 ,b4 c4 #bb499 7,title-page wanting47 #acef ,bib4 ,rouen4 ,no4 #a1cad499--;,bib4 ,baron ,j4 ,pichon499 #aceg ,florence1 ,bib4 ,prof4 ,santerelli4--,rome1 ,bib4 ,prince ,massimo4 #aceh ,cat4 ,evans1 ,strand4 #acei ,hesse-,cassel1 ,public ,library4 ,communicated by ,mr4 ,n4 ,r4 ,bernhardi1 the head ,librarian4 #acfj ,lowndes1 ,bibliographer's ,manual4 ,new edit4 by ,henry ,bohn4 #acfa ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 #acfb ,vienna1 ,imperial ,library4 #acfc ,brussels1 ,bib4 ,roy4 #acfd ,bib4 ,imp4 ,grav4 ,l4 h4 #b4 a499--,brussels1 ,bib4 ,roy4--,cat4 d',estres #hhdg4 #acfe ,in the possession of ,mrs4 ,marryat4 ,maes y dderwen4--,bib4 ,bodleian4 #acff ,quoted by ,mr4 ,douce 7,illustrations of ,shakspeare74 #acfg ,s4 ,marino4 ,m4 ,p4 ,bonella4 #acfh ,berlin1 ,roy4 ,library4 #acfi ,bib4 de l',arsenal4 #aa1ief bis499 #acgj ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 #acga ,victoria and ,albert ,museum4 #acgb ,ibid4 #acgc ,a ,history of ,hand-made ,lace4 ,mrs4 ,nevill ,jackson and ,e4 ,jesurum1 #aijj4 #acgd ,a ,history of ,hand-made ,lace4 ,mrs4 ,nevill ,jackson and ,e4 ,jesurum4 #aijj4 #acge ,a ,history of ,hand-made ,lace4 ,mrs4 ,nevill ,jackson and ,e4 ,jesurum4 #aijj4 #acgf ,a ,history of ,hand-made ,lace4 ,mrs4 ,nevill ,jackson and ,e4 ,jesurum4 #aijj4