,,making ,,tin ,,can ,,toys ,illustration3 ,army truck constructed entirely from used tin cans ,,making ,,tin ,,can ,,toys ,,by ,,edward ,,thatcher ,,originator ,,of ,,tin ,,can ,,toys ,,and ,,instructor ,,of ,,metal ,,working1 ,,teachers ,,college1 ,,columbia ,,university ,,new ,,york ,,city1 #aijd-aiai ,,drawings ,,made ,,and ,,the ,,author',s ,,models ,,painted ,by ,,isabel ,,thatcher ,illustration ,,philadelphia ,,and ,,london ,j4 ,b4 ,,lippincott ,,company ,,copyright1 #aiai1 ,,by ,j4 ,b4 ,,lippincott ,,company ,,printed ,,by ,j4 ,b4 ,,lippincott ,,company ,,at ,,the ,,washington ,,square ,,press ,,philadelphia1 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,,introduction ,tin can toys were invented after a fruitless search of the toy shops for a large tin locomotive4 ,i had a long can in my shop at home that ,i thought could be very easily worked up into a toy locomotive boiler by adding a few fittings1 such as a piece of tin rolled up into the form of a smokestack4 ,part of a small can could be used for a steam dome1 or ,i could use the top part of a certain tooth-powder can1 the distributor top of which would look very much like a whistle4 ,a cocoa tin came in very handy for a cab1 and a thumb-tack box served for a headlight4 ,the wheels were made of can lids soldered together1 and the toy locomotive was made1 much to the joy of my very young son1 who has had it in constant service for over a year1 and it is still good for many trips at the end of a string4 ,i had always used tin cans for making such articles as water motors1 glue pots1 melting ladles1 mooring buoys for model yachts1 etc41 but the locomotive was the first toy1 made wholly from tin cans1 that ,i had produced1 and this suggested other toys4 ,the steam roller was next made4 ,i found that the cans lend themselves very easily to the making of toys1 so much of the work being already done4 ,the materials used to make these toys are plentiful and inexpensive--cans are everywhere4 ,the tools needed are few and easy to use1 and ,i found that so many different and amusing durable toys could be made from used tin cans1 and also that everyone seemed to have such fun making the toys1 that ,i decided to use them for teaching purposes4 ,tin can toy making has been thoroughly tried out in a grade school under a very able teacher1 who understands making them4 ,pupils of ten1 eleven and twelve years of age have proved that these toys are easy to make1 and many schools now have the work well established4 ,the steam roller1 shown in ,plate ,,xi1 was made by a boy of ten after a model which ,i made for it4 ,this same boy developed quite a trade of his own by soldering up various pieces of tinware for his mother and the neighbors4 ,but1 better still1 working with the tin cans has developed the inventive faculties of my class to a surprising degree4 ,the pupils have thought out and made many models of their own--not only toys but useful things as well4 ,various members of the class investigated the large trucks1 automobiles1 hoisting engines1 locomotives1 boats and such things seen in any water-front community1 to see how they were made and how they worked1 and why4 ,these pupils then returned to the school shops and made models of their own1 many of which showed considerable invention and ingenuity4 ,i decided to teach the ,occupational ,aides in my classes at ,columbia ,university how to make these toys1 so that they in turn could teach the wounded soldiers in the hospitals4 ,it is a great pleasure to know that as this book goes to press many a wounded soldier has been and is still being amused and benefited by making the tin can toys here4 ,but the making of tin can toys is by no means limited to hospitals and schools4 ,any one who cares to tinker1 to handle tools1 to use up waste materials1 may find pleasure and profit from assembling tin cans and parts of them4 ,many useful and attractive things may be made for the home1 shop1 or camp4 ,i have found it quite possible to make many decorative things from tin cans1 and for some years ,i have made lanterns1 candlesticks1 sconces and trays of all kinds4 ,the shape of the cans themselves lends them to decoration when assembled by a person having a sense of design and proportion4 ,there is nothing weak or flimsy about a well-made tin can toy4 ,a strip of flat tin is very easily bent2 if that same strip of tin is bent at right angles through its whole length1 like the angle iron encountered in structural iron work1 it will be found to be remarkably stiff4 ,bend up an angle on each side of a strip of tin1 like a channel iron used in buildings2 it will sustain a remarkable load4 ,i have used the common forms employed in structural steel for building up the toys shown in this book with the result that they are surprisingly solid and durable1 though made entirely from cans or the tin taken from flattened-out cans and boxes4 ,no rough or sharp edges are left about these toys4 ,the edges of a piece of tin may be folded over or 8hemmed0--or a folded strip of tin may be slipped over an edge that needs strengthening4 ,thus all danger of cutting the fingers or of thin edges being bent out of shape is done away with4 ,although made of tin1 there need be nothing 8tinny0 about a well-made1 well-painted tin can toy4 ,very few and very simple tools are required for the work and the solder1 soldering flux1 rivets1 wire and paint are very inexpensive items1 as so little need be used for each piece produced4 ,soldering is by far the most important of the operations involved in tin can toy making4 ,but it is very simple1 once it is understood4 ,when the principles that govern the process of soldering are thoroughly mastered there is no difficulty at all about it4 ,chapters ,,iv and ,v should be thoroughly read and re-read before trying to solder1 and at least two practice pieces well soldered together before going any further4 ,since the tin can toys were introduced into my classes at college ,i have taught more than two hundred pupils how to make them4 ,many of these pupils had little or no experience with tools and had never expected to have any until the war came along and changed the ideas of many people as to their ability to work with their hands4 ,i have yet to encounter a pupil who could not solder after a very short period of instruction4 ,look at the end of a small olive oil can or the end of a tin commonly used to contain cocoa1 then think of the shape of the radiator and hood of the modern automobile4 ,the shape of the can and the shape of the hood of the automobile are very much alike4 ,a few holes punched in the end of the can in regular rows transform it into a miniature radiator in appearance1 and some slits cut in the side of the can look very much like the vents in the side of a real auto hood4 ,solder the cap of a tooth-paste or paint tube in place over the radiator1 and the hood and radiator are completed4 ,to have formed up a hood of this sort from a plain sheet of metal would have taken far more skill than the average tinker is likely to possess1 but you have it ready made in the can1 and this is the whole idea of tin can toy building4 ,less than half of a rectangular two-quart can used for a certain cooking oil makes up into a truck body so like the bodies on the real trucks that it would be difficult to find or make one more like them4 ,many different kinds of boats that will really float may be made from mackerel and herring tins which are usually made in the shape of boats4 ,two mackerel tins soldered together suggest the fighting tank4 ,only a little work is necessary to transform these cans into real toys4 ,long cylindrical cans suggest boilers for toy locomotives1 hoisting and traction engines1 steam rollers and the like4 ,wheels for rolling stock may be made from cans or the can lids4 ,small adhesive tape boxes make excellent headlights or searchlights and also pilot houses for tiny tug boats4 ,bottle caps1 thumb-tack boxes1 and the small screw tops of olive or cooking oil cans suggest head1 side and tail lights for toy automobiles1 and many other things4 ,aside from the pleasure derived from the actual making of tin can toys1 perhaps the greatest satisfaction lies in the fact that you are using material usually thrown away--making something out of nothing4 ,and so this book is offered to tinkers by a tinker with the hope that they may get some of the pleasure out of it that he has had in writing it4 ,,edward ,,thatcher4 ,woodstock1 ,ulster ,county1 ,new ,york4 ,september1 #aiai4 ,,extract ,,from ,a ,,letter ,,written ,,to ,,the ,,author ,,by ,a ,,former ,,pupil ,,mrs4 ,,clyde ,m4 ,,myers ,,reconstruction ,,aide1 ,,director ,,of ,,the ,,red ,,cross ,,work ,,shop ,,for ,,patients ,,at ,,neurological ,,base ,,hospital #aag1 ,,la ,,fauche1 ,,haute ,,marne1 ,,france 8,the hospital was new and its needs were many4 ,we began work the day after our arrival and by the time our small equipment was unpacked 7,mrs4 ,myers refers here to her own personal equipment of tools which was necessarily a small one as it was brought from ,america4 ,the hospital shops were not equipped with tools until after the ,aides had established the work and decided on the necessary tools needed71 requests were coming in from all quarters of the hospital for us to make everything from tables and dishes to doughnut cutters4 ,there was such a lack of material that the problem of making them could have been solved by nothing less than ingenuity of the ,american soldier and the ever present tin can pile4 8,some old ,french hospital beds found on the salvage heap were quickly converted into work benches4 ,it was then that the tin can ceased to be a thing to be burned and buried and came into its own4 8,our first need was a charcoal furnace to heat our soldering coppers4 ,this was made from two large square tins with an interlining of brick4 ,a bit of an old grate completed this perfectly good furnace which served us well for many months4 8,the wants of the kitchen were next considered4 ,for washing dishes we made three huge wooden tubs #b by #b by #f feet4 ,the lining and drain pipes for these were made from several large tin cans4 ,as the size of the hospital increased there was a constant demand for such things as biscuit pans1 doughnut cutters1 funnels1 potato graters1 vegetable strainers1 soap dishes and other small necessities4 8,for the officers' wards1 barracks1 and recreation hut1 we made tin candlesticks1 flower holders1 ash trays1 electric light shades1 tea trays1 desk sets1 and filing boxes4 ,all of which were not only useful but quite ornamental1 as they were attractively painted and decorated by the patients4 ,the soldiers took great interest in the making of mechanical toys1 especially war-like ones1 such as tanks1 aeroplanes1 cannon and army trucks4 8,the reflectors for the foot lights of the stage in the ,red ,cross ,recreation ,hut were made of tin cans4 ,the end-men in the minstrel show were quite gay in tin can hats--what could have been more simple--a tin brim with an inverted butter can for a crown1 gaudily painted and beribboned6 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,i ,courtesy ,pictorial ,review ,wounded soldiers at work 8,the princess in the ,christmas play was in need of shining armor4 ,half circles of tin overlapping each other not only served the purpose but were glitteringly gorgeous4 ,the ,three ,kings in the play were badly in need of crowns2 three oatmeal tins were beautifully fashioned into kingly headdresses for them4 8,the ,christmas tree was brilliant with hundreds of stars1 diamonds1 and crescents1 and candle holders1 which was the final contribution of our much sought and never failing friend1 the tin can pile1 as the hospital was evacuated soon afterwards4 8,i have had entire charge of the work and have taught the other ,aides the tin can work1 as it was a most necessary thing for them to know4 ,many of these ,aides were sent to other hospital workshops and introduced the work there40 ,,mrs4 ,,clyde ,m4 ,,myers1 ,r4,a4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,,introduction #e ,,extract ,,from ,a ,,letter ,,written ,,from ,,france ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,clyde ,m4 ,,myers1 ,r4,a4 #ac ,i4 ,,tin ,,cans #ai ,,various ,,kinds ,,of ,,cans ,,and ,,boxes--,,preparing ,,cans ,,for ,,the ,,work--,,cutting ,,in ,,and ,,opening ,,out ,,cans ,,and ,,boxes ,,ii4 ,,tools ,,and ,,appliances #bh ,,tool ,,lists ,,and ,,costs--,,laying ,,out ,,and ,,marking ,,off ,,work--,,shop ,,appliances ,,iii4 ,,making ,a ,,biscuit ,,cutter ,,from ,a ,,small ,,can #dd ,,cutting ,,the ,,can ,,to ,,size ,,for ,,biscuit ,,cutter--,,punching ,a ,,hole ,,in ,,tin--,,forming ,,the ,,handle--,,folding--,,making ,a ,,sugar ,,scoop ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,method ,,iv4 ,,soldering #ed ,,soft ,,solder--,,sheet ,,tin--,,the ,,process ,,of ,,soldering--,,heating ,,apparatus--,,electrical ,,soldering ,,coppers--,,the ,,common ,,soldering ,,copper--,,fluxes--,,tinning ,,the ,,copper--,,heating ,v4 ,,soldering 7,continued7 #ga ,,preparing ,a ,,joint ,,for ,,soldering--,,cleaning ,,and ,,scraping--,,soldering ,a ,,practice ,,piece--,,soldering ,,the ,,handle ,,to ,,the ,,biscuit ,,cutter--,a ,,second ,,practice ,,piece--,,another ,,method ,,of ,,applying ,,solder ,,vi4 ,,cooky ,,cutters #gi ,,the ,,pine ,,tree ,,design--,,cutting ,,narrow ,,strips ,,of ,,tin--,,bending ,,to ,,shape ,,over ,,design--,,soldering ,,cooky ,,cutters--,,the ,,handle ,,vii4 ,,trays #hf ,,turning ,,over ,,edges ,,on ,,round ,,trays--,,using ,,the ,,forming ,,mallet--,,making ,,an ,,ash ,,tray ,,and ,,match ,,box ,,holder ,,viii4 ,a ,,tray ,,candlestick #id ,,the ,,candle ,,socket--,,cutting ,a ,,hole ,,in ,,the ,,drip ,,cup--,,making ,,the ,,handle ,,ix4 ,,riveting #ajj ,,making ,a ,,pail ,,from ,a ,,tin ,,can--,,cutting ,,away ,,the ,,surplus ,,tin ,,at ,,the ,,rim--,,forming ,,the ,,lugs ,,for ,,the ,,handle--,,riveting ,,the ,,lugs ,,in ,,position--,,forming ,a ,,wire ,,handle ,x4 ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck #ajg ,,four ,,ways ,,of ,,making ,,wheels ,,of ,,tin ,,cans3 ,,making ,a ,,wheel ,,from ,a ,,can ,,with ,,soldered ,,ends--,,making ,,wheels ,,from ,,rolled ,,rim ,,cans--,,two ,,types ,,of ,,wheels ,,made ,,from ,,can ,,lids ,,xi4 ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck 7,continued7 #aah ,,forming ,,the ,,chassis--,,using ,,the ,,wooden ,,roofing ,,folder--,,folding--,,using ,,the ,,vise ,,for ,,short ,,folding--,,using ,,the ,,hatchet ,,stake ,,for ,,folding ,,xii4 ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck 7,continued7 #abg ,,making ,,the ,,hood ,,and ,,radiator--,,cutting ,,the ,,vents--,,soldering ,,on ,,the ,,filler ,,cap ,,xiii4 ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck 7,continued7 #ace ,,the ,,dash-,,board--,,the ,,seat--,,assembling ,,the ,,truck--,,springs--,,soldering ,,the ,,wheels ,,on ,,the ,,axles--,,strip ,,washers ,,xiv4 ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck 7,continued7 #adf ,,truck ,,bodies--,,different ,,types ,,of ,,bodies ,,to ,,be ,,fitted ,,to ,,the ,,same ,,chassis--,,the ,,tank ,,truck--,,the ,,street ,,sprinkler--,,the ,,coal ,,or ,,sand ,,truck--,,the ,,army ,,truck--,,the ,,ambulance--,,the ,,fire ,,engine ,,xv4 ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck 7,continued7 #aeg ,,the ,,starting ,,crank--,,the ,,steering ,,wheel ,,and ,,column--,,mud ,,guards ,,and ,,running ,,boards--,,lights1 ,,tool ,,boxes1 ,,horns1 ,,etc41--,,drivers' ,,cabs ,,xvi4 ,,boats #aff ,,the ,,rowboat--,,the ,,sailboat--,,the ,,scow--,,the ,,tugboat--,,the ,,battleship--,,the ,,ferry-,,boat ,,xvii4 ,a ,,toy ,,locomotive #agd ,,the ,,frame--,,boiler--,,cab--,,wheels--,,cy linders ,,and ,,connecting ,,rods--,,the ,,smokestack1 ,,steam ,,dome ,,and ,,whistle1 ,,sand ,,box ,,and ,,headlight--,,cars--,a ,,passenger ,,car ,,and ,,some ,,others ,,xviii4 ,,simple ,,mechanical ,,toys #ahb ,,water ,,wheels ,,and ,,sandmills--,a ,,simple ,,steam ,,turbine ,,and ,,boiler--,a ,,windmill ,,and ,,tower--,,aeroplane ,,weathervane ,,xix4 ,,candlesticks #aib ,,wall ,,sconces ,,and ,a ,,lantern ,,xx4 ,,camp ,,and ,,kitchen ,,equipment #aie ,a ,,coffee ,,pot--,,boiling ,,pails--,,frying ,,pan--,,toaster--,a ,,camp ,,shower ,,bath--,,canteen ,,or ,,hot ,,water ,,bottle--,a ,,match ,,box ,,xxi4 ,,preparing ,,the ,,toys ,,for ,,painting #bjj ,,removing ,,surplus ,,solder ,,with ,,scrapers--,,making ,a ,,hoe ,,scraper--,,plumbers' ,,and ,,roofers' ,,scrapers--,,scraping ,,and ,,filing--,,boiling ,,the ,,toys ,,in ,a ,,lye ,,bath--,,vent ,,holes ,,xxii4 ,,notes ,,on ,,painting ,,the ,,toys #bjf ,,illustrations ,,page ,army ,truck ,constructed ,entirely from ,used ,tin ,cans ,frontispiece ,i4 ,wounded ,soldiers at ,work #aj ,,ii4 ,army ,truck and ,tin ,cans ,used to ,make ,it #bb ,,iii4 ,the ,raw ,material from ,which ,many of the ,toys ,shown in ,this ,book ,were ,made #bc ,,iv4 ,scribing a ,line ,around a ,can with the ,dividers4 ,cutting ,along the ,joint to ,open a ,can4 ,cutting from ,right to ,left with the ,straight ,shears4 ,cutting to the ,line1 ,right to ,left #bb ,v4 ,author at ,work #bc ,,vi4 ,the ,tools ,needed for ,tin ,can ,toy ,making #cb ,,vii4 ,biscuit ,cutters4 ,soldering #dd ,,viii4 ,cooky ,cutter1 ,tray ,candlestick and ,ash ,trays ,made by the ,author #hd ,,ix4 ,steam ,rollers #aaf ,x4 ,dumping ,truck and ,chassis of ,toy ,auto ,truck4 #abj ,,xi4 ,chassis of ,toy ,auto ,truck and ,dumping ,truck4 #aba ,,xii4 ,wooden ,roofing ,folder #abj ,,xiii4 ,oil ,tank ,truck and ,toy ,ford #aeb ,,xiv4 ,red ,cross ,ambulance #aec ,,xv4 ,boats #agj ,,xvi4 ,a ,simple ,toy ,locomotive1 a ,sand or ,water ,mill and the ,first ,tin ,can ,toy #agd ,,xvii4 ,steam ,tractor and ,gun #age ,,xviii4 ,aeroplane ,weathervanes #ahh ,,xix4 ,lantern and ,fighting ,tank #aib ,,xx4 ,a ,toy ,tin ,can ,kitchen #aif ,,xxi4 ,a ,doll's ,bathroom and a ,tin ,can ,laundry #aig ,,making ,,tin ,,can ,,toys ,,chapter ,i ,,tin ,,cans ,,various ,,kinds ,,of ,,cans ,,and ,,boxes--,,preparing ,,cans ,,for ,,the ,,work--,,cutting ,,in ,,and ,,opening ,,out ,,cans ,,and ,,boxes ,there are many shapes and sizes of tin cans and boxes as every one knows2 round1 square1 elliptical1 tall1 short1 or flat4 ,a surprising number of attractive shapes and sizes may be collected in a short time in any community4 ,housewives are only too glad to find some one to use them4 ,cans that are well rinsed with hot water as soon as the contents are removed are not at all objectionable to work with2 but cans that have not been rinsed out1 or that have been thrown out and exposed to the weather are very unpleasant objects1 and besides1 a rusty can is very difficult to solder4 ,it is a simple matter to rinse or scald out a can as soon as the contents are removed4 ,tomato1 corn1 pea and condensed milk cans are the most plentiful4 ,coffee1 tea1 cocoa1 jam1 mackerel and sardine cans1 olive and cooking oil cans1 baking powder and spice cans are all useful for making the things described in this book and for many more besides4 ,biscuit boxes1 tobacco boxes1 cold cream1 ointment1 and the small adhesive tape boxes all contain possibilities4 ,the screw tops of olive oil and cooking oil cans1 and bottle caps should be collected for this work4 ,jelly glass lids1 in fact1 all shallow tin lids are useful4 ,syrup and molasses cans with separate lids1 that push into place are worth saving1 especially the lids4 ,certain containers of dry material are now largely made of pasteboard with tin tops1 lids and bottoms4 ,the tin parts of these containers are often of an attractive shape4 ,the large round gallon cans used by hotels and restaurants are particularly useful1 and a sizable piece of tin may be obtained from the sides of the can and the bottoms may be used for large candlestick saucers and many other things4 ,large square tin boxes used to contain #ajj pounds of cocoa may be obtained from some restaurants4 ,these are made of heavy tin and five large sheets may be cut from the bottom and sides4 ,considerably over #a would have to be paid for the same amount of tin4 ,preparing ,cans for the ,work4--,cans that have contained paint1 stove-blacking1 heavy oils or greases1 or cans that have been standing about with part of the contents exposed to the air may be thoroughly cleaned of all foreign matter by the hot lye bath4 ,this bath is made up by adding two heaping tablespoonfuls of lye or washing soda to the gallon of boiling water4 ,cans boiled up in this solution for a few minutes will be cleaned of all paint1 paper labels1 etc4 ,keep the hands out of the solution and do not allow any of it to come in contact with the clothes4 ,lift the work out of it with a wire hook and rinse off the lye with hot water2 stand the cans bottom up so that they will drain out without any water remaining in them4 ,the lye solution may be used for a number of times and then may be poured down the sink1 as lye is an excellent thing for drain pipes4 ,do not leave a lye bath in the shop without covering it tightly when not in use1 as the fumes from it are sure to rust every tool in the place4 ,coffee1 tea1 cocoa1 talcum and other cans that have contained dry material need not be put in the lye bath until ready to paint1 unless the labels are too much in the way for soldering4 ,small boxes such as contain tobacco are almost covered with a sort of varnished paint4 ,this may be scraped away where the box is to be soldered1 but if much soldering is to be done the whole box should be boiled up in the lye bath until all the paint is removed4 ,sometimes the lye softens the paint but does not entirely remove it4 ,more lye may be added to the bath and the work left in it awhile longer1 or the work may be removed from the bath and the softened paint scrubbed away with a scrubbing brush and plenty of clean water4 ,after being used several times1 the bath will become too muddy and weak for further use and then a fresh one should be made1 as the lye is inexpensive4 ,for good work1 it is necessary that the cans be thoroughly clean4 ,cutting ,into and ,opening ,out ,cans and ,boxes4--,there is one very easy way to cut into and open out a can or box4 ,to make wheels1 small trays and other things1 a good part of the sides of the can must be cut away leaving a small portion of the sides attached to the bottom4 ,the part that is cut away may be flattened out and used to make various things4 ,as most of the cans used are cut down to various dimensions in this manner1 either to use the bottom with part of the sides1 or to obtain flat sheets of tin1 it will be well to consider the easiest way of doing it4 ,first1 determine how much of the bottom portion of the can is to be left intact4 ,then using a pair of dividers opened to this dimension1 make a line parallel with the base of the can and completely around it4 ,to do this1 hold the can down to the bench with the left hand so that it may be turned against the divider points as shown in ,plate ,,iv1 a4 ,hold the dividers firmly down to the bench and against the can so that the uppermost point is held at exactly the same height from the bench during the turning or marking1 while turning the can against the point to mark it4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,ii ,army truck shown in frontispiece assembled from group of cans shown below ,tin cans used to make the army truck shown in frontispiece ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,iii ,courtesy ,pictorial ,review ,the raw material from which many of the toys shown in this book were made ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,iv a1 scribing a line around a can with the dividers4 b1 cutting along the joint to open a can4 c1 cutting from right to left with the straight shears to remove surplus tin from can before cutting to line4 d1 cutting to the line right to left ,illustration3 ,,plate ,v ,copyright by ,keystone ,view ,co41 ,n4 ,y4 ,author at work ,then using a pair of straight metal shears1 cut down each side of the seam or joint in the side of the can to within one-half inch of the horizontal line you have marked with the dividers 7see ,plate ,,iv1 b74 ,bend out the narrow strip containing the seam and cut it off with the shears4 ,this will give you an open slot in the side of the can in which the shears may be easily introduced to cut horizontally around it4 ,do not try to cut directly on the line marked around the can with the dividers but begin cutting about half an inch above this line and cut completely around the can until you have cut off the whole top part of it4 ,after you have cut away the larger portion of the metal1 the narrow strip remaining above the line may be easily cut away as it curls up out of the way as it is cut by the shears4 ,the can should be held in the left hand with the open end or top toward you 7see ,plate ,,iv1 c74 ,be sure you hold the can in this manner4 ,with the tin snips held in the right hand1 start cutting toward the left hand always when cutting around a can or box4 ,bend the tin out of the way as you cut4 ,you will find that it is impossible to cut in a straight line or to make a continuous unbroken cut while cutting away a large portion of the can4 ,but1 after the larger piece is out of the way1 the narrow strip remaining above the line may be easily cut away if you cut toward your left hand and hold the open end of the can toward you4 ,it is impossible to cut a straight line around a cylindrical form with a pair of straight shears unless the shears cut from right to left and that part of the metal which is cut away is nearest the operator4 ,the beginner will perhaps find it easier to handle the cans if a pair of old thin kid gloves are worn4 ,if one can afford it1 the pair of double cutting shears such as are listed in the supplementary tools on page #ca are excellent things to have for opening and cutting around cans4 ,these shears have three blades1 and one blade cutting between two fixed blades cuts away a narrow strip of tin as the shears are worked along in such a manner that a straight line may be followed around a can at the first cutting4 ,the point of the single blade may be punched into the side of a can and the cut started around the can at any point4 ,if many cans are to be cut down1 these double cutting shears will save much time and trouble4 ,however1 the straight shears will answer well enough1 if the above directions are carefully followed4 ,be sure to try not to cut to the line the first time you cut around a can4 ,cut away the larger part first and then cut to the line when there is only a narrow strip to cut away4 ,do not mind if the first piece cut away looks very rough and jagged4 ,it may be a little difficult at first1 but patience and practice will soon make it quite easy to cut open a can in this manner1 using a pair of ordinary straight shears4 ,cut away the top of the can or the rolled edge adhering to that part of the can which is cut away2 trim away all jagged edges2 place flat on the bench or anvil and flatten out the tin with light blows of a wooden mallet4 ,lay this tin aside until needed4 ,i find it convenient to cut away the top or rolled edge of large round cans before cutting around them near the bottom1 as then it is easy to bend the comparatively large sheet of tin out of the way of the shears as ,i cut around the can at the bottom4 ,a large pair of shears is very convenient for opening large cans1 but small ones will do if intelligently used4 ,when cutting metal with a pair of shears1 always remember that the shears cut more powerfully near the joint or bolt1 particularly when cutting through a folded seam or soldered joint4 ,keep the shears well oiled and have them sharpened by a competent mechanic when they become dull4 ,when cutting narrow strips of tin1 be careful not to get the tin jammed between the shear blades so that the blades are forced apart sideways4 ,keep the bolt tightened so that the blades fit closely together4 ,one might suppose that cut or burned fingers would be plentiful in a large class of tin toy makers1 but such has not proved to be the case4 ,there have been surprisingly few accidents of this sort and none of them at all serious4 ,one soon learns how to handle tin so as to avoid rough or sharp edges and that a soldering copper is provided with an ample handle so that it may be safely and easily handled when hot4 ,some of the students found that old kid gloves with parts of the fingers cut off afforded protection to hands that were not used to shop work4 ,a bottle of iodine was kept handy and such slight cuts that were encountered were immediately washed with cold water and iodine applied to the cut which was then lightly bandaged4 ,this treatment proved most effective and no ill effects resulted4 ,a mixture of pure linseed oil and lime water may be obtained at any druggists and this is a very effective remedy for burns4 ,the solution should be well shaken up and applied directly to the burn which should then be bandaged with bandages wet with the mixture4 ,common brown laundry soap worked up into a thick lather is an excellent remedy for slight burns4 ,care and patience used in handling the tin and the tools will leave very little use for the above remedies in the shop4 ,the various problems presented in this book of tin can toys should be worked out in the order in which they are presented as each one bears a definite relation to the others4 ,be sure to work out the simpler problems first--even if you have had considerable experience in other forms of metal working4 ,a number of processes particularly adapted to working tin are used in making tin can toys4 ,while these processes are very simple1 they are somewhat unlike those involved in copper working and jewelry making1 though more closely allied to the commercial metal work of to-day4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,tools ,,and ,,appliances ,,tool ,,lists ,,and ,,costs--,,laying ,,out ,,and ,,marking ,,off ,,the ,,work--,,shop ,,appliances ,in this chapter the names and approximate costs of the tools and appliances are given and also suggestions as to fitting up the shop for working with the cans4 ,various methods are suggested for laying out the work with the ruler1 square and dividers4 ,it must be remembered that tool prices are not fixed and that the prices quoted in the following lists are the market prices of to-day1 ,july #bi1 #aiah4 ,at present1 tools are much higher in price than usual owing to conditions brought about by the war4 ,tool prices vary with market conditions4 ,the tools listed may be bought at any good hardware store or ordered from the catalogues of any of the large mail order houses 7except the ,wooden ,roofing ,folder and the ,forming ,mallet74 ,while the folder is not absolutely necessary for folding up angles in the tin1 it is much better to have one to make the numerous angles employed in tin work than to attempt folding by hand1 and particularly when long angles are to be made for lanterns1 towers1 automobile chassis and the like4 ,in fact1 it is in almost constant use4 ,the wooden roofing folder is not carried in stock by hardware and mail order houses1 but it may be ordered from a dealer in tin-smiths' or sheet metal workers' tools4 ,any good tinner or plumber will tell you where to order one4 ,the forming mallet is easily made from a block of maple or a piece of broom handle as described under ,shop ,appliances4 ,it is taken for granted that such simple tools as rulers and pencils are at hand4 ,,list ,,of ,,tools ,,for ,,making ,,the ,,simpler ,,tin ,,can ,,toys ,,and ,,decorative ,,objects #a soldering copper1 weight #a lb4 7#a lb4 actual weight of copper end7 4#ge #a wooden handle for copper 4#aj #a pair tinners' shears1 #h or #aj inch 4#he #a pair flat-nose pliers1 #d inch 4#de #a pair round-nose pliers1 #d inch 4#de #a pair dividers1 #f inch #a4be #a small riveting or tack hammer 4#dj #a half round file1 smooth milled cut1 #h to #aj inch 4#bj #a wooden mallet1 #c inch face 4#be #a box of soldering paste 4#be #a bar of soft solder #a4be #b lbs4 soft solder wire #a4bj #a wooden forming mallet 7home made7 #a wooden roofing folder 7optional7 #d4ej 7,roofing folder may be obtained only from dealer in tinners' tools47 #a vise 7#c inch jaws7 #c4ej to #e4jj #a try square1 #f inch 4#fe ,materials ,needed ,aside from the ,cans4--,galvanized wire1 #aj or #ae feet each of the following diameters3 1 1 1 7if impossible to obtain all these diameters1 get inch or larger74 ,wire nails1 about lb4 each of the following sizes3 #b;d1 #c;d1 #d;d1 #f;d1 #h;d1 #aj;d1 #bj;d 7d is the abbreviation for penny74 ,tinned rivets1 several dozen of the smallest size 7a box containing one gross is about as cheap as six dozen74 ,can of lye or #b pounds of washing soda4 ,for heating the soldering copper1 a heater of some kind1 such as a blue flame kerosene stove1 gas furnace or common one-burner gas stove1 charcoal furnace1 or gasoline plumbers' torch with attachments for holding copper4 ,a large can or pail1 or an old wash boiler for holding the hot lye solution4 ,supplementary ,tool ,list4--,the tools named in this list will be found very convenient for making the more advanced models1 particularly the hand drill and the twist drills which are used with the hand drill4 ,the supplementary tools are by no means necessary for making the tin can toys1 but if one can afford to get them1 they will be found extremely convenient4 ,however1 almost any of the models may be made with the tools listed on page #bi1 if one is sufficiently skillful in the use of them4 ,the more work one does with tools the fewer tools one needs if the tools are intelligently used4 ,the tools in both lists should be purchased1 if possible1 as they are all tools commonly used in metal working shops4 ,purchase the tools listed on page #bi first and go as far as possible with them1 and then purchase as many of the supplementary tools as possible when you need them4 ,except when noted otherwise1 these tools may be purchased at any good hardware store4 ,,supplementary ,,tool ,,list #a hand drill1 capacity to inch drills #a4ge #d twist drills1 1 1 1 inch diameters 4#aj to 4#bj #a pair large tinners' shears1 #ab or #af inch #a4ej #a pair curved tinners' shears1 #h inch #a4be #a pair double cutting shears1 #h inch 7optional7 #a4he #a pair side cutting pliers1 #e inch 4#ge #a pair spring dividers1 #f inch 4#ge #a pair outside calipers1 #f inch 4#ge 7,spring dividers and outside calipers may sometimes be obtained at the #e-;and-#aj ,cent ,stores47 #a small soldering copper1 weight about #d ounces 4#ce #a half-round file1 #h inches 7fine cut7 4#be #a round file1 #h inches long1 inch diameter 4#bj #a small cold chisel1 inch in width at cutting edge 4#ae #a large cold chisel1 inch at cutting edge 4#be 7,an old wood cutting chisel is just as good for cutting tin47 #c nail sets1 1 1 inch in diameter at point1 each 4#aj 7,these nail sets may also be used as punches or ground to chisel points4 ,small chisels and nail sets may be obtained at the #e-;and-#aj ,cent ,stores47 #a carpenters' scratch awl 4#be 7,an ice pick of the same type will do as well47 #f small clamps of different sizes 4#aj to 4#be 7,these clamps may usually be found at the #e-;and-#aj ,cent ,stores47 #a hatchet stake1 #i-;inch blade #a4ge 7,obtained only from tinners' and sheet metal workers' supply houses4 ,a small substitute may be made from a #aj-;cent hatchet4 ,purchase the hatchet stake if you can afford it47 #a bench drill #g4ej 7,the bench drill is by no means necessary for any of the models described in this book1 but it is a very convenient tool to have in the shop4 ,with this tool1 a hole may always be bored at right angles to the work4 ,the hand drill will answer every purpose if one cannot afford this tool47 ,laying ,out and ,marking ,off the ,work4--,before attempting to begin actual work with the cans1 it may be well to consider various ways of measuring to certain dimensions and transferring these measurements to the surface of the tin1 and laying out and marking off the work for cutting1 folding1 etc4 ,the tools needed for this work are few and simple4 ,a ruler1 a marking awl1 a small try square1 and a pair of spring dividers are all one needs for this part of the work4 ,the ruler may be of wood or metal and should be at least #ab inches in length with the inch divisions marked on it4 ,a plain straight rule of hard wood such as is used in the grade schools will do very well4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,vi ,the tools needed for tin can toy making ,the marking awl may be purchased at any good tool house or hardware store or an ice pick will do very well if sharpened to a good point so that a line may be easily scratched in the surface of the tin with the point4 ,a large stiff needle may be forced in a pen handle to make an excellent marking awl or a common steel knitting needle may be used if the point is sufficiently sharp4 ,metal workers always scratch their dimension lines in the surface of the metal as pencil lines are easily rubbed away by the hands when working with the metal4 ,the try square should be about six inches long at the blade or measuring side1 and should be entirely constructed of metal and the measuring blade should be marked off in inches and fractions thereof4 ,good try squares may frequently be purchased in the #e and #aj cent stores and these are quite accurate enough for the purpose4 ,the spring dividers should be about #f inches in length4 ,these dividers are held open by the strong spring in the top and are opened and closed by a nut acting on the screw thread4 ,do not purchase the heavy dividers or compass commonly used by carpenters as these are not as capable of the small adjustments as are the spring dividers4 ,the spring dividers may sometimes be found at the #e and #aj cent stores and may always be found at good hardware stores and tool houses4 ,all the tools used for laying out and marking off the work are plainly shown 7,plate ,,vi74 ,laying ,out ,work4--,it should be borne in mind that a little time spent in carefully measuring1 laying out and marking off the work will make a great difference in the finished appearance of that work1 so that these simple operations should not be slighted4 ,the steel square should always be used in laying out rectangular work3 lines that are supposed to be at right angles or 8square40 ,work that is not carefully laid out or square will not fit together neatly if it fits at all4 ,one of the first things that one has to do in the tin can work is to trim up a piece of tin that is taken from the side of a can and flattened out4 ,suppose that such a piece of tin has been cut from a can and flattened out1 the edges of such a piece of tin are rather jagged and the whole piece should be trimmed off square before trying to use the tin for various purposes4 ,first place the ruler as near to the upper edge of the tin as possible and so as not to include any of the jagged cuts4 ,hold the ruler down firmly and draw the point of the marking awl along the edge of the ruler until a straight line is scratched along the edge of the tin4 ,the surplus tin above this line should be cut away with the metal shears by cutting along from right to left so that the narrow and jagged strip of tin is curled up out of the way by the shears as it is cut4 ,when the surplus tin is cut away you should have a straight clean edge at which to begin the marking operations4 ,using the ,try ,square4--,next1 the two ends of the piece of tin should be squared off using the try square for squaring up the ends as follows3 ,place the heavy solid part of the square firmly against the freshly cut straight edge of the tin1 near one end in such a manner that the blade of the square with the inch divisions marked on it lays squarely across the tin1 and as near as possible to the end of the piece but not including any of the jagged cuts4 ,the position of the square is shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4 ,when the square is in position1 mark a line across the tin with the scratch awl held closely to the blade4 ,cut away the extra tin and you have two sides of your piece of tin squared4 ,proceed in the same manner to trim off the other end4 ,the remaining or long side of the piece may be squared up either by using the ruler or the spring dividers4 ,the strip of tin that you have squared up on three sides will probably be narrower at one end than at the other4 ,measure the width of the narrow end with the ruler and then measure off this same distance at the opposite end and mark it with the scratch awl4 ,use the ruler to connect the two measuring points and scratch a line in the tin by drawing the scratch awl along the edge of the ruler4 ,cut away the surplus tin and your piece of tin should be squared4 ,the spring dividers may be opened so that the points rest exactly on each corner of the narrowest end of the strips of tin4 ,then the dividers are moved to the opposite end of the strip and the lower end or point of the dividers moved back and forth slightly until a slight scratch is made in the surface of the tin to indicate the measuring point4 ,the position of the dividers is shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,the ruler is used to connect the two measuring points and a line scratched between them4 ,small strips of tin may be marked off entirely by the dividers by setting the dividers to the required dimension1 placing the dividers so that one point rests against one edge of the strip to be marked off and then drawing the dividers along in such a manner that the point of the dividers that rests on the tin will scratch a line parallel to the edge4 ,the edge of the tin that the point of the dividers rests against must1 of course1 be cut straight before beginning the marking operations4 ,the strip thus marked off may be cut away and another one marked off in the same manner until the required number of strips is cut4 ,suppose that four strips are to be cut1 each strip to measure one by ten inches4 ,square up a piece of tin to measure four by ten inches4 ,open the dividers so that the points are exactly one inch apart4 ,rest one point of the dividers against one edge of the tin as shown in ,fig4 #b and draw it along the entire length of the tin so as to scratch a line parallel to the edge4 ,cut off this strip1 taking care to make a straight cut and then mark off another strip and cut it off1 and so on until all four strips are cut4 ,this method of using the dividers for marking is more accurate and much easier than that of using a ruler to measure off each strip1 and certainly more rapid4 ,finding ,wheel ,centers with the ,dividers4--,when making wheels of tin cans1 some easy method must be used to find the center of the wheel in order to punch or bore a hole for the axle so that the axle may be placed as near the center of the wheel as possible1 and so that the wheel will run true once it is placed on the axle4 ,the dividers may be used for this operation which is very simple4 ,the can is first made up into wheel form as described in ,chapter ,x1 page #ajh4 ,when the wheel is soldered together lay it flat on the bench4 ,open the dividers so that one point rests against the rim of the wheel or against the rolled edge of the can forming the rim of the wheel4 ,if the wheel is made of a can that has a cap soldered on each end and this cap forms the end of the can 7such as the small cans that are used for evaporated milk71 then the one leg of the dividers may be rested in the slight line or depression just inside the rim that is invariably found in this can4 ,open the dividers so that the other point rests as near the center as you can guess it4 ,when the dividers are set to dimension and are in position on the wheel as shown in ,fig4 #c1 then move the point of the dividers that is near the center of the wheel slightly back and forth so that it describes a slight arc and scratches it in the surface of the can and the other point of the divider is held at the point near the rim of the wheel during this operation4 ,then move the dividers directly across the wheel still set at the same dimension1 placing one point against the rim or in the depressed line and describing a slight arc in the tin as before4 ,set the dividers at right angles to the first two marking points having the dividers still opened to the same dimension as at first and describe another arc4 ,set the dividers directly across from this point and describe another arc4 ,the wheel should then resemble ,fig4 #d1 the four arcs forming sort of a pillow shape as shown4 ,draw lines diametrically across connecting each corner of the pillow as shown and where these lines cross is the center of the wheel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,if one is so fortunate as to possess a tool called a surface gauge1 it will be found very handy for marking or scribing lines parallel to the base of cans4 ,this tool consists of a base of metal in which is fixed an upright post also of metal4 ,an adjustable scriber or needle is fixed to this post so that it may be lowered or raised and set in position as desired4 ,the point is adjusted to the required height and placed against the side of the can or surface to be marked1 the operation being conducted on a flat level surface4 ,the can is simply turned against the fixed scriber point until it is entirely marked around4 ,the advantage of the surface gauge over the dividers for this operation is that the scriber point is held rigidly at a fixed dimension above the base of the can while the dividers must be held firmly in place by the hand4 ,however1 the dividers will do very well for this operation after a little practice4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,,shop ,,appliances ,homemade ,substitutes for ,expensive ,tools4--,the tool of first importance in any metal working shop is a good vise4 ,there is no substitute for this tool and a good one that measures three or three and a half inches across the jaws should be purchased from a reliable tool dealer4 ,the next tool of importance is some form of anvil or anvils for flattening or rounding the tin4 ,a small bench anvil may be purchased from the tool dealer4 ,these are much like a blacksmith's anvil with a flat face and a conical horn and are made of iron and steel4 ,the large mail order houses offer various small anvils of cast iron for farm use and these are excellent for the tin shop4 ,excellent substitutes for these anvils are easily made from old flat irons and pieces of gas or water pipe4 ,short lengths of iron and steel bars may be picked up about any junk pile1 and these are very useful to form the tin over4 ,the ,flat ,iron ,anvil4--,an old flat iron1 the kind with the handle attached1 may be found about almost any household4 ,the handle should be broken off as close to the top of the iron as possible4 ,use a hammer and cold chisel for this and cut the handle ends deeply all around where they join the iron4 ,when they are deeply nicked1 several sharp blows from a large hammer should break the handle away4 ,file away all roughness until the iron will set level with the smooth or ironing face uppermost4 ,then you have an excellent flat hard surface for straightening out tin or wire4 ,pipe and ,bar ,anvils4--,short lengths of iron pipe1 round and square iron and steel bars of various diameters may be held in the vise jaws and used to form the work over4 ,large wire nails may also be used for this purpose4 ,the smaller sizes1 such as 1 1 or inch in diameter1 should be solid iron or steel bars #h or #aj inches in length1 as small pipe crushes and bends rather easily in the vise4 ,larger sizes1 such as 1 1 #a or #b inches in diameter1 are better made of pipe as they are lighter and easier to handle and also easier to obtain4 ,get all the sizes suggested if possible and as many short pieces of square or flat bars as you find convenient to store away about the shop4 ,they will come in very usefully for bending or forming operations4 ,the method of holding them in the vise is plainly shown on page #hi1 ,fig4 #bf4 ,if you have plenty of bench room and are handy with tools1 several of the most used sizes of pipe and bars may be clamped or bolted directly to the bench with wooden or metal holding strips4 ,the larger sizes1 such as 1 #a1 #a1 #b and #c inches in diameter1 will be found very convenient if fastened to the bench in this manner4 ,the ,bench4--,the shop bench should be about #ca inches in height4 ,the top of the bench should be about #b by #f feet or larger if possible1 and may easily be built by any one familiar with tools4 ,the top should be made of maple about #a inches thick4 ,if one cannot afford this bench a common kitchen table makes an excellent substitute4 ,a good strong table of this sort may be purchased at any house-furnishing store4 ,these tables are furnished with a large drawer in which small tools may be kept4 ,if much of the tin work is done1 it will prove advantageous to have some light wooden shelves or racks built about the walls of the shop to store the various sized cans where they may be easily seen and reached4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,the ,forming ,mallet4--,the special forming mallet designed by the author will have to be made4 ,it was designed especially for work with the tin cans4 ,it is very simple and easily made of maple by any carpenter4 ,one end is a slightly rounded dome shape and the other is in the form of a blunt wedge4 ,the dimensions and general shape of the mallet are shown in ,fig4 #e4 ,the handle may be made of a piece of -inch dowel rod4 ,a substitute for this mallet may be made of a piece of broom handle the end of which is already rounded to about the proper curve4 ,measure off #d inches from the rounded end of the broom handle and saw it off4 ,bore a -inch hole through the center of the piece to fit the piece of dowel rod used for the handle4 ,whittle down the end to a blunt wedge shape leaving it about inch thick at the end4 ,the rounded end may be left as it is4 ,a piece of -inch maple dowel may be picked up in any carpenter shop4 ,this should be #h inches long4 ,it should be driven into the hole drilled for it in the mallet1 taking care not to split the mallet in so doing4 ,if the broom handle is rather small in diameter it would probably be better to use a piece of -or -inch dowel for the handle4 ,a small nail or brad may be driven through the mallet and handle to secure it in place4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,making ,a ,,biscuit ,,cutter ,,from ,a ,,small ,,can ,,cutting ,,the ,,can ,,to ,,size ,,for ,,biscuit ,,cutter--,,punching ,a ,,hole ,,in ,,tin--,,forming ,,the ,,handle--,,folding--,,making ,a ,,sugar ,,scoop ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,method ,a biscuit cutter is about the simplest thing that may be made from a tin can4 ,it is an excellent thing to begin with as it is so simple and involves three very essential operations in the tin can work3 cutting the can to size1 forming the handle1 and lastly1 soldering 7see ,plate ,,vii1 a74 ,select a good bright1 clean can about #b inches in diameter2 a baking powder can or a small soup can will do4 ,tin cans are usually made up in two ways4 ,one method is to solder on flanged ends1 such as condensed or evaporated milk cans1 and the other method is to roll the edges of the can together at each end1 using no solder4 ,when looked at closely1 the two different types of can are easily told apart4 ,a rolled rim can should be used for the biscuit cutter as it is stronger than the can with the soldered ends4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,vii ,biscuit cutters made by the author ,soldering ,cutting the ,can to ,size for ,biscuit ,cutter4--,the biscuit cutter should be about inch deep at the cutting edge4 ,set the dividers to this dimension and proceed to scribe a line around the can parallel to the base and inch above the rolled rim of the bottom4 ,this simple scribing operation is described in ,chapter ,i1 page #bb4 ,the method of cutting into the can and around the scribed line is very simple and is also described in ,chapter ,i4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,when you have cut the can down to the required dimension1 it should appear as shown in ,fig4 #f4 ,the biscuit cutter may be slightly out of shape after the cutting operation1 but this may be easily remedied by placing the biscuit cutter on a small round anvil held in the vise and by tapping it gently with a flat wooden mallet1 turning the cutter slowly around on the anvil during the hammering as shown in ,fig4 #g4 ,be sure to turn the biscuit cutter slowly around and around the anvil as it is hammered with the mallet4 ,it will soon become round if hammered gently4 ,next take a small flat file1 one with very fine teeth1 usually called a smooth milled file1 and with this smooth down any roughness left by the metal shears at the edge of the biscuit cutter4 ,the method of using the file is shown in ,fig4 #h4 ,it should be held lightly against the work when filing4 7,never try to file a piece of tin with a large or roughly toothed file as the coarse teeth will catch on the tin and tear or bend it out of shape47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #g4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,do not try to file the edge of the cutter to a knife fine edge2 simply file away the metal raised by the shears when cutting4 ,if it is cleanly cut and filed to the original thickness of the tin1 it will cut biscuit dough very well1 as the tin is thin4 ,punching a ,hole in ,tin4--,a hole should be punched in the top of the biscuit cutter to admit air1 as the biscuit dough is apt to stick in the cutter by the vacuum formed unless an air vent is provided4 ,a small hole about inch in diameter will do1 but a series of such holes may be punched in if desired4 ,a punch may be filed up from a wire nail or a regular punch or nail set may be used4 ,the biscuit cutter is placed over the end of a block of wood held in a vise as shown in ,fig4 #i1 in such a manner that the top of the cutter rests directly on the wood4 ,the punch is placed in the center of the cutter1 care being taken to see that the wooden block supports the tin directly under the punch1 and then the punch is struck lightly with the hammer until it cuts through the tin4 ,it may be well to try the punch on a scrap of tin to test it4 ,a clean round hole should result4 ,the punch cuts out a tiny disk of tin and drives it into the wood4 ,the end grain of a wooden block should always be used for punching on4 ,if a nail is used for a punch1 the original point should be filed away4 ,nail points are usually made in the form of a square pyramid and if these points are driven into a piece of tin a jagged hole will result2 such a hole may be used for making a grater for the kitchen1 but all other holes should be round and smooth4 ,to file up a nail for a punch proceed as follows3 ,place the nail vertically in the vise jaws so that the point projects slightly above the jaws4 ,file the point entirely away until you are filing the entire diameter of the nail and squarely across it4 ,then reduce the diameter of the nail at the end you have been filing by filing smoothly around it as shown at ,a1 ,fig4 #aj4 ,see that the edge ,b is clean and sharp and the nail punch is ready for use4 ,the nail used for a punch should always be somewhat larger in diameter than the punching point1 as this will provide for a stronger punch and one not so likely to bend4 ,regular punches are usually made much thicker in the body than at the point1 as may be easily seen by looking at one4 ,if desired1 punches may easily be made from nails to cut round1 square1 or triangular holes4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,it is much better to purchase a regular punch or punches for punching round holes1 as these may be purchased for #aj or #ae cents at almost any hardware or #e-;and-#aj cent store4 ,several different sizes will prove useful1 1 1 inches in diameter being the most used sizes4 ,as these punches are made of hardened steel they hold their edges for a long time1 but nails are made of a fairly soft steel and when used as punches have to be frequently filed sharp4 ,forming the ,handle4--,after the hole is punched in the top of the biscuit cutter1 a suitable handle is the next thing to be made4 ,this handle may be made from the piece of tin cut away when cutting down the can for the biscuit cutter4 ,cut away any rough or jagged edges and then place this piece of tin on the bench or a flat anvil surface and flatten it out with light mallet strokes4 ,heavy strokes with a mallet will dent the tin4 ,trim away all rough edges including the rolled edge at the top and square up the piece of tin as described on page #cd1 ,chapter ,,ii4 ,mark off a strip of tin #a inches in width and #d inches long4 ,cut this strip out and be sure that it is square at the ends4 ,open the dividers and set the divider points inch apart and scribe a line inch inside each of the long sides of the strip4 ,the edges of the strip of tin thus marked off must be turned or folded in so that the edges of the handle will be strengthened and will not cut the hand4 ,these edges may be folded over with a mallet or by the use of a folding machine4 ,the mallet should be used for this first folding operation2 the folding machine and its use will be described further along in the book1 page #abj1 ,chapter ,,xi4 ,to fold the edges over with the mallet1 proceed as follows3 ,secure a block of hard wood1 maple preferred1 the block to be about #c inches square and #f inches in length4 ,see to it that the block is cut cleanly and squarely across so that the edges at the end are sharp and at right angles4 ,a maple block of this sort may usually be picked up at any lumber yard or carpenter shop1 or a maple log may be secured from the wood pile and trimmed up square4 ,one end of the block may be used to punch on4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa;a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa;b4 ,the block is held in the vise as illustrated in ,fig4 #aa and the tin to be folded is held on the block in such a manner that the line marking the fold is over the edge of the block4 ,use either a light wooden mallet or the special forming mallet1 and with light blows proceed to bend down at the edge and up to the line as illustrated in ,fig4 #aa1 a4 ,begin at one end and work along the line to the other end of the strip of tin4 ,do not try to turn the tin down at a right angle at once or in one place and then proceed to turn it down at another1 but rather hammer lightly along the whole length at the marking line1 turning the tin down at a slight angle from the line to the edge and then going back and starting to hammer where you began1 turning the tin down at a greater angle and so on until you have turned the edge at right angles as shown in ,fig4 #aa1 b4 ,always bend tin over very gently and evenly1 never forcing it violently into place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,reverse the strip of tin on the block so that the part just folded stands vertically at the edge of the block as shown in ,fig4 #ab4 ,hammer the edge of the tin gently over so that it folds back on itself as shown by the dotted line in ,fig4 #ab4 ,do not hammer the tin down hard at the folded edge so that it becomes thin and sharp though doubled4 ,it should be rounded over so as to give a rounded edge4 ,a rounded fold is much stronger than a sharp thin one4 ,when one edge is completely folded over1 fold down the other in the same manner1 so that both edges of the handle for the biscuit cutter appear as in ,fig4 #ac4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,when you have successfully turned or folded over the edges to your satisfaction1 then proceed to give the whole handle a semi-circular form4 ,place a large round wooden mallet or a piece of #a or #b-;inch pipe in the vise to use as a form over which to round the handle4 ,the folded part should be inside or next the mallet or pipe form shown in ,fig4 #ad4 ,press the tin down to the form with the palm of the hand so as to round it into shape2 it may be completely formed into shape by this method or the rounded end of the special forming mallet may be used to hammer it into shape if the tin should kink during the bending4 ,the mallet blows should be directed toward the center of the strip so as not to thin the edges too much4 ,round the handle over until the ends rest inside the rolled rim of the can or biscuit cutter and you are ready to solder the handle in place4 ,as the soldering is the most important part of the tin work the next two chapters are devoted to it4 ,the ,sugar ,scoop4--,a useful sugar or flour scoop may be easily made from a small or large can in exactly the same manner as the biscuit cutter1 except that the can is cut off slanting instead of square1 ,fig4 #ae4 ,the edges of the scoop should not be turned or folded but should be left as cut so as to form a sharp cutting edge that will easily enter sugar or flour4 ,the handle is shaped in exactly the same manner as that of the biscuit cutter4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,soldering ,,soft ,,solder--,,sheet ,,tin--,,the ,,process ,,of ,,soldering--,,heating ,,apparatus--,,electrical ,,soldering ,,coppers--,,the ,,common ,,soldering ,,copper--,,fluxes--,,tinning ,,the ,,copper--,,heating ,soft ,solder4--,when two or more pieces of metal are joined together with a metallic cement1 they are said to be soldered4 ,sheet tin1 of which cans are constructed1 is always soldered with soft solder1 a mixture of lead and tin1 usually #ej per cent4 lead and #ej per cent4 tin4 ,this solder is usually supplied in wire or bar form at any hardware or electrical supply house4 ,copper1 brass1 bronze1 iron1 silver1 gold1 and practically any metal except aluminum may be soldered with soft solder4 ,sheet ,tin4--,sheet tin1 so-called1 really consists of a thin sheet of iron coated on both sides with tin4 ,this coating of tin serves several purposes4 ,it enables the solder to adhere easily2 it prevents the iron from rusting2 and when the sheet tin is made up into can form1 the tin coating protects the contents of the can from chemical action on the iron4 ,the ,process of ,soldering4--,soft solder is applied to the metal to be soldered in a molten state and this operation requires considerable heat4 ,when heat is applied to metal it usually oxidizes that metal2 that is1 dirties it4 ,solder will not adhere to oxidized metal4 ,the metal must be protected with a coating called a flux while being soldered4 ,soldering paste1 soldering fluid or 8killed acid10 resin1 paraffin1 heavy oils1 and vaseline all serve as fluxes1 some better than others4 ,the soldering paste is by far the best1 as will be shown later4 ,soft solder is applied to the tin1 on the point of a hot soldering copper1 often wrongly called a 8soldering iron40 ,a soldering copper consists of a pointed bar of copper suitably fixed to an iron shank which is firmly set in a wooden handle4 ,the point of the copper must be well coated with solder or 8tinned10 so that when it is heated it will pick up the solder and convey it to the joint to be soldered4 ,the hot copper1 charged with solder1 is passed slowly along the joint and as the tin to be soldered receives enough heat from the copper1 the solder leaves the copper and adheres to the tin1 firmly uniting it4 ,heating ,apparatus4--,some form of heating apparatus is necessary to heat and maintain the soldering copper at the melting or flowing point of the solder4 ,the copper may be heated in a gas furnace especially made for soldering coppers1 or over an ordinary gas stove burner or a common blue flame oil stove1 or a charcoal fire1 a wood fire burned down to embers1 or a plumbers' gasoline torch1 but never in a coal fire4 ,coal contains too much sulphur which oxidizes the copper and renders it useless for soldering purposes4 ,the ,blue ,flame ,oil ,stove4--,for heating the coppers in my country shop1 ,i use a blue flame oil stove1 one of the less expensive sort1 with the asbestos ring wick and the short removable chimneys4 ,the stove has two burners and will heat from four to six coppers at once4 ,the flames may be regulated nicely so as to give just the required amount of heat and this stove consumes very little kerosene1 and1 therefore1 costs little to operate4 ,in ,fig4 #af1 it will be noticed that there is a curved hood over each stove hole4 ,these hoods may be easily made from part of a large can or of a piece of tin or sheet iron bent into shape4 ,these hoods conserve the heat and throw it about the coppers4 ,i also place a piece of heavy wire netting over the grating of the stove holes to support the coppers and to permit their being laid to one side1 out of the intense heat1 when not immediately needed4 ,the blue flame oil stove forms the most satisfactory arrangement for heating coppers that ,i have ever used in the country4 ,these stoves are easily taken care of and are understood by almost everyone4 ,the directions should be nailed up alongside the stove and carefully followed1 particularly as to cleaning the burners once or twice each season4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,the ,gasoline ,torch4--,the plumbers' gasoline torch is often used by experienced metal workers for heating coppers4 ,in inexperienced hands1 this torch is rather a dangerous affair4 ,only one copper may be heated at a time and it is difficult not to overheat the copper in the fierce roaring flame4 ,the cost of the torch and the cost of operating it are both greater than the blue flame kerosene stove4 ,however1 in experienced hands1 it is safe enough and very useful about the shop4 ,in using such a torch the directions should be most carefully followed2 all joints1 filler openings1 etc41 must be airtight when operating or a disastrous fire or explosion may result4 ,the tiny jet opening in the burner must be kept clean4 ,the ,gas ,furnace4--,in my winter shop in the city where gas is available1 ,i use the gas furnace shown in ,fig4 #af4 ,this is a most satisfactory and widely used heater for soldering coppers1 as it gives an intense blue flame that may be easily regulated4 ,when using a heater of this sort1 one must be sure that it is lighted correctly or a smoky yellow flame will result4 ,to produce a blue flame1 air must be mixed with the gas2 just as it is in a bunsen burner or an ordinary gas stove1 for that matter4 ,gas is admitted to the furnace through a small nozzle at the end of the mixing flue near the rubber hose connection4 ,air is admitted in the slot under the gas nozzle2 a movable slide encircles the mixing flue over the slot to control the amount of air admitted4 ,this slide must be tightly closed over the air vent when the gas is first turned on4 ,to light the heater1 close the air inlet tightly1 turn the gas on full and apply a lighted match to the burner4 ,a yellow flame will result4 ,now open the air vent slowly1 by pushing the slide forward a little way4 ,the flame will change from yellow to blue and purple as air is admitted4 ,when the flame is blue1 it is giving out the most heat and is in the best condition to heat the copper4 ,if the flame fires back and lights the gas at the brass nozzle over the air inlet1 the gas should be turned off until the flame disappears4 ,the air inlet is then closed1 and the gas turned on and lighted1 and then the air inlet is slowly opened until the flame turns blue4 ,when the furnace is in use1 it should be looked at occasionally to see that the flame has not fired back to the nozzle4 ,once satisfactorily lighted1 the heater may be turned up or down as needed4 ,if the flame is turned down very low the air inlet may have to be closed a bit to prevent the flame from firing back4 ,the copper is placed on the rest provided for it over the flame4 ,after the copper is heated to the flowing point of solder1 the flame may be turned down or the copper placed to one side of the flame1 so that it does not get too hot4 ,charcoal and ,wood ,fires4--,when using a charcoal or a wood fire1 the copper should be placed at the bottom among the embers4 ,small charcoal furnaces used for heating soldering coppers may be bought from the dealer in plumbers' supplies4 ,charcoal should not be burned in a closed room as the fumes are deadly unless allowed plenty of constantly changing air4 ,these furnaces may be connected with a chimney or burned in a room with windows opened1 without danger4 ,a soldering copper may be heated in the glowing embers of a camp fire or in the embers in a fireplace4 ,electrical ,soldering ,coppers4--,the electrically heated copper is ideal for soldering as the heating coil is enclosed within the copper itself1 the wire running out through the handle and connecting with an ordinary electric light socket4 ,the heat is maintained at a proper degree for melting the solder2 hence it is an ideal equipment for those who can afford it and where electric current is available4 ,the doctors of certain hospitals have recommended electrical coppers for the use of patients in making tin can toys4 ,an electric soldering copper costs about #g4ej at the present time4 ,the ,common ,soldering ,copper4--,a suitable soldering copper or 8iron0 may be purchased at any good tool dealer's or hardware store2 it should weigh about one pound for work with the tin cans4 ,almost everyone has purchased a small soldering outfit at one time or another and tried to solder the family wash-boiler or some leaky tinware2 usually without success4 ,such outfits are invariably too small for large work or for the tin can toys4 ,it must be well remembered that the heat flows from the copper into the work1 and that the copper has to heat up the work to the melting point of the solder2 hence a large copper weighing several pounds is used to solder wash-boilers1 tin roofs1 etc41 and a small copper weighing a few ounces is used for soldering jewelry1 etc4 ,a large copper in expert hands may be used to solder very small work but a small copper may never be used to solder large work together1 because the copper not only has to keep the solder melted to the flowing point1 but also has to heat the work itself at the joint to the flowing point of the solder before the solder will leave the copper and adhere to the work4 ,in actual practice1 it has been found that a copper weighing one pound is best4 ,after one gets more adept with the copper1 it will be found advantageous to have several coppers of different weights4 ,a half pound and also a four ounce copper will be found very convenient for extremely small work4 ,but1 do not begin to solder with a copper weighing less than one pound4 ,soldering coppers are usually sold in pairs at the large tool dealers1 and coppers listed at two pounds really weigh one pound each2 when sending in a written order be sure that you specify that the copper is to weigh one pound singly4 ,a wooden handle especially made for soldering coppers should be purchased at the same time as the copper2 these wooden handles are made large to protect the hand from the heat of the iron shank4 ,the handle is usually furnished with a hole of the proper size drilled in it to permit the pointed end of the shank to be driven in the handle easily with a wooden mallet4 ,if the hole is too small1 it should be drilled out so that it is nearly as large as the diameter of the shank4 ,the wooden handle must not be split when driven on with the mallet4 ,fluxes4--,before tinning the point of the copper1 some flux must be obtained1 either a soldering paste or soldering fluid 8killed acid40 ,an excellent soldering paste called 8,nokorode0 is by far the best flux obtainable4 ,it is inexpensive1 a little goes a long way1 and it will not rust or corrode the work as is the case with killed acid and some soldering pastes4 ,it may be easily cleaned from the work after soldering and it makes soldering much easier and simpler for the beginner4 ,nokorode soldering paste may be obtained at any good electrical supply house or hardware store4 ,if they do not stock it1 they will get it for you4 ,there is nothing else just as good on the market1 but if for any reason you cannot obtain this particular brand1 be sure that any soldering paste you buy is plainly labelled that it will not corrode the work4 ,soldering fluid or killed acid is made of muriatic acid in which is dissolved all the pure zinc that it will hold in solution4 ,this fluid is much used by tinners and is certainly an excellent soldering flux1 but not nearly as good as the soldering paste for our purposes4 ,however1 it is very useful in the shop to dip the tinned point of the hot copper into it to remove the oxide or dirt formed after the copper has been in use for some time4 ,the solder will stick to the point much better after the copper has been cleaned in this manner4 ,directions for making the killed acid and the use of other soldering fluxes will be found on page #fh4 ,tinning the ,copper4--,having procured the soldering copper and handle1 some flux and soft solder1 and having fixed up some sort of heating apparatus1 the next step toward soldering is to coat the point of the copper with solder3 this is called tinning the copper4 ,fix the copper firmly in a vise if one is at hand1 as illustrated in ,fig4 #ag4 ,then file each of the four faces of the point of the copper bright and clean with a flat file4 ,it is better to use an old file for this purpose--one with rather coarse teeth4 ,it will be observed that the copper is placed slantwise in the vise so as to bring one face of the square pyramid parallel with the vise jaws2 this position permits filing in a natural horizontal position4 ,each face of the point should be rounded slightly toward the point4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,if a vise is not available1 the copper may be held against the edge of the bench with one hand and the point filed clean and bright with the file held in the other1 or a coarse sheet of emery cloth may be placed flat on the table and each face of the point rubbed bright on it4 ,a file is by far the best for this purpose1 however1 and if it is chalked before using1 the copper filed away will not clog it4 ,when the copper is clean and bright at the point each face should be thoroughly covered with a thin film of soldering paste or dipped into the soldering acid4 ,the copper should then be placed in the fire and heated to the melting point of the solder4 ,heating4--,while the copper is heating get ready a piece of tin about #b by #d inches--any clean flat scrap or part of a can will do4 ,spread a little soldering paste into the center of the tin and lay it on the bench near the heating apparatus4 ,a few drops of killed acid may be placed on the tin instead of the paste1 if the acid is to be used4 ,after a few minutes heating the copper should be removed from the fire and the end of a strip of solder touched to the point4 ,if the solder melts quickly and easily against the point the copper is ready to tin2 if it melts very slowly1 8slushy01 the copper should be returned to the fire and heated a bit more4 ,the copper should never be heated red hot under any circumstances2 this must be borne in mind4 ,if the copper is heated to a red heat1 the soldering paste will be burned off and its action destroyed1 for a red hot copper will not pick up solder1 nor may it be tinned again until the copper is cool and refiled bright and clean1 recoated with flux and reheated4 ,if the copper is heated red hot after the point is tinned1 the tinning is burned from the point and solder will not stick to it until it has been cooled1 refiled and retinned4 ,this is the most important point to remember about soldering and is the cause of many failures4 ,remember that soldering is impossible without a flux to keep the metal clean when it is hot2 too much heat will burn soldering paste or killed acid away2 the tinning and the solder adhering to the point will be burned or oxidized and rendered brittle and useless4 ,a heat that will melt the solder almost instantly and cause it to flow with a brilliant glistening color should be maintained at all times when the copper is employed for soldering4 ,this is never a red heat4 ,when the copper is first heated to be tinned1 it should be removed from the fire when it melts the solder easily1 and several large drops of solder should then be melted from the bar or strip of solder onto the piece of tin placed by the fire and on which some soldering paste or acid has been spread4 ,rub each face of the point of the copper into the solder on the tin until each face is thoroughly covered with a bright coating of solder4 ,hold each face flatly down against the solder on the tin during the rubbing process4 ,the copper may have to be heated once or twice by the beginner1 as it may get too cool to melt the solder easily4 ,as soon as the solder begins to work stiffly1 8slushy10 and looks gray instead of glistening1 it is time to reheat the copper4 ,an old piece of soft cotton cloth1 such as a stocking1 on which is sprinkled a little powdered sal-ammoniac is an excellent thing to keep handy when soldering or tinning4 ,the tin coating of the point of the copper should be rubbed on this cloth where the sal-ammoniac is sprinkled1 when the copper is hot4 ,this will be found to keep the copper in excellent condition4 ,the sal-ammoniac removes the oxide from the tinning and brightens it up generally about the point4 ,the tinning will last much longer on the copper if it is dipped occasionally into the soldering paste or acid while hot4 ,this is particularly true if the copper has been a bit overheated4 ,when the tinning shows signs of wearing off and the copper does not pick up solder readily1 it must be retinned1 filed1 fluxed1 heated1 and rubbed on the solder which has been put on the tin first used for this purpose4 ,this piece of tin should be kept about the bench1 as the copper will have to be retinned frequently4 ,always remember that the copper will not carry solder to the work unless it is well tinned4 ,if an electrical soldering copper is used it is usually furnished already tinned at the point1 so that it is ready for use as soon as it is connected to a suitable electric socket and the current turned on4 ,the heating coil inside the copper will soon heat it up to the melting point of the solder4 ,after heating1 it may be treated as a common copper1 wiped occasionally on the cotton cloth and retinned when the tinning is worn away4 ,an electrical copper should never be placed in a vise for filing1 but should be held against the bench and filed carefully4 ,a vise is apt to crush the hollow copper and injure the heating coil inside4 ,these coppers should never be placed in a fire or heated in any way except by the electric current4 ,electrical coppers do not need as much attention as an ordinary copper for the even heat supplied by the current keeps the copper heated to the flowing point of the solder and is incapable of heating beyond this temperature4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,soldering ,,fluid ,,or 8,,killed ,,acid0 ,soldering fluid may be very simply made as follows3 ,pure zinc is dissolved in muriatic acid until the acid will not dissolve any more of the zinc4 ,the solution thus obtained is then allowed to stand for a time and is then strained through a cloth and poured into a bottle which is kept tightly corked when not in use4 ,first purchase about six ounces of muriatic acid from a druggist4 ,take care not to spill any of this acid on the hands or clothes4 ,next get some pure sheet zinc4 ,the sheet zinc employed for stove mats as it is sold in the plumbers' shops is not suitable for making soldering fluid1 as this form of zinc is alloyed with other metals4 ,pure zinc may be very easily obtained from old dry batteries which may be found anywhere4 ,remove the paper covering from the battery and crack it open with a hammer--remove the carbon from the center of the battery and dump out all the powdered material4 ,soak the zinc covering of the battery in warm water to remove any paper or material adhering to the zinc and then cut the zinc into pieces about inch square4 ,find an old tea cup or earthen-ware marmalade jar and pour into it about half a teacupful of the muriatic acid4 ,set the vessel containing the acid out of doors or near an open window and away from all steel tools1 so that the fumes of the acid may escape and not be breathed into the lungs or rust any tools4 ,pour a small handful of the zinc cuttings into the acid4 ,the acid will attack them at once and a strong bubbling action will result4 ,when the bubbling action dies down add more zinc cuttings--about every fifteen minutes4 ,when the acid shows no sign of attacking the zinc as it is added1 the acid is said to be 8killed0 and the soldering fluid is made4 ,it may be used at once if necessary1 but it will be much better if it is allowed to stand over night with the zinc residue left in it4 ,it is then strained through a piece of muslin cloth into another cup or jar and the fluid is ready for use4 ,soldering fluid may be kept in a wide-mouthed glass bottle or a marmalade jar2 either vessel must be tightly corked when not in use4 ,this soldering fluid may be used as a flux for any soft soldering operation in place of the soldering paste1 but it is not as satisfactory a flux for the tin can work as the paste4 ,the best use for it in connection with the tin can toys is to keep it to dip the point of the hot copper in occasionally to clean the tinning at the point of the copper4 ,while the prepared soldering paste is best for all soldering operations connected with the tin work1 other fluxes may be used if nothing better is at hand4 ,these are resin1 olive oil1 cottonseed oil1 automobile lubricating oil1 and paraffin2 but these fluxes are not very satisfactory in inexperienced hands4 ,the soldering paste is best for all soldering operations4 ,,chapter ,v ,,soldering 7,continued7 ,,preparing ,a ,,joint ,,for ,,soldering--,,cleaning ,,and ,,scraping--,,soldering ,a ,,practice ,,piece--,,soldering ,,the ,,handle ,,to ,,the ,,biscuit ,,cutter--,a ,,second ,,practice ,,piece--,,another ,,method ,,of ,,applying ,,solder ,cleaning and ,scraping4--,if the copper is thoroughly tinned and the heater and materials are ready for use as described in ,chapter ,,iv1 then several practice pieces should be soldered together before attempting a joining on any real work you may have ready to solder4 ,if the tin is bright and clean1 it need not be scraped at the joint where the solder is to go4 ,rusty spots should be scraped bright if in the path of the solder4 ,paper1 labels or paint must be cleaned away4 ,if a can has been well rinsed with hot water when the contents are emptied1 it will present no difficulties to the soldering1 but a can that has been emptied but not rinsed presents a more difficult surface to solder2 particularly tomato1 fruit1 or condensed milk cans4 ,this1 of course1 applies only to the inside of these cans4 ,tobacco1 coffee1 cocoa1 tea cans and the like offer no resistance to the solder without washing4 ,the yellow lacquer used to line some cans need not be scraped off4 ,solder will adhere well to tin so treated1 but paper1 paint1 etc41 must be scraped from the path of the solder4 ,the scraped part need only be a quarter of an inch in width on each side of the joint2 the rest of the paper labels or paint will be removed in the hot lye bath used before painting the can4 ,the scraping may be done with an old knife1 or a regular scraper furnished by the dealer in tinners' tools as illustrated on page #bjb1 ,chapter ,,xxi4 ,when scraping the tin bright1 do not scrape it so hard that all the tin will be scraped away from the inner sheet of iron1 as solder will stick to tin much better than to iron4 ,if the tin is not very dirty1 a piece of emery cloth or sand paper may be used to clean the joint4 ,paint cans1 cans that have contained stove blacking1 rubber cement1 varnish1 shellac1 etc41 should be thoroughly boiled in a strong lye bath before soldering2 paint is usually made of oxides and oxides are a sure preventive of soldering4 ,the lye bath is made by adding two heaping tablespoonfuls of lye or washing soda to the gallon of boiling water4 ,cans boiled in this solution for five minutes will be thoroughly cleaned and free from paint1 paper labels1 and practically anything likely to be found inside or outside of a can4 ,the lye or washing soda may be obtained at any grocery store4 ,care should be taken not to get any of the lye solution on the hands or the clothes as it is very caustic and will burn the hands and ruin the clothes if not immediately washed off4 ,the work should be handled with a wire hook while in the bath and well rinsed with water when removed from it4 ,the same lye bath is used before paint is applied to tin work1 when all forming1 soldering1 riveting1 etc41 is done4 ,it removes the flux1 acid1 and finger marks1 leaving a clean surface on which to paint4 ,soldering a ,practice ,piece4--,for practice in soldering1 an angle joint is a good thing to begin with2 something that is small and easily held in position while being soldered4 ,as ,i have already described the forming up of a biscuit cutter to the point of soldering it together1 a practice piece resembling it will be an excellent thing with which to begin4 ,cut a narrow strip of tin about #a inch wide and #d inches long and a flat piece of tin about #b by #c inches4 ,be sure that the ends of the narrow strip are cut squarely across1 using the square if necessary4 7,see chapter on 8,laying ,out ,work10 page #cb47 ,see to it that both pieces are well flattened out and smooth4 ,bend the narrow strip into a semi-circular form1 like the biscuit cutter you have already to solder and stand this piece in position on the larger flat piece of tin4 ,now lay the piece near the soldering copper heater1 on the wooden bench2 be sure to place it on wood1 not on a part of the vise or any other metal that may be convenient4 ,iron1 stone or brick will absorb too much heat from the tin if directly under and in contact with it1 and thus prevent soldering4 ,apply a small amount of soldering paste to each joint as indicated in ,fig4 #ah4 ,the paste may be applied with a small flat stick of wood such as a match stick shaved down to a long1 thin1 wedge point4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,killed acid or soldering fluid is usually applied with a small camel's-hair brush set in a quill2 sometimes a chicken feather is used for this purpose4 ,the flux1 whether paste or acid1 should be applied sparingly1 but be sure that enough is applied to thoroughly cover the joint1 as if it were painted on both sides of the metal where it joins4 ,see to it that the copper is well tinned and heated until it will melt and take up a good sized drop of solder at the point when held against a bar or strip of solder4 ,wire or strip solder is much easier for the beginner to handle than the heavier bar4 ,it melts far more easily1 as it is smaller4 ,if bar solder is used1 place it on an anvil or stone and hammer one end out1 until it is about inch thick and much wider than the original bar4 ,it will melt off much more quickly when thinned out4 ,hold the semi-circular piece in position with the left hand and with the right bring the hot copper charged with molten solder at the tinned point and fit the point of the copper closely into the angle formed by the joint1 moving the copper very slowly along the joint1 starting at one side and finishing at the other4 ,when each side of the joint is thoroughly heated up to the melting point of the solder1 some of the solder will leave the copper and flow into and over the joint2 so that when starting to solder a joint the copper should be allowed to rest a moment where the soldering is to be started4 ,the tin is then heated up and when the solder starts to flow into the joint1 the copper is drawn slowly along1 heating up the tin1 and as it travels flowing the solder into the joint4 ,the following points should be well remembered when soldering3 ,that the tin1 to be soldered1 must be heated up to the melting point of the solder before the solder will leave the copper and adhere to the tin4 ,that the copper supplies the heat to the tin and that the tin will not be heated unless the copper is kept in contact with it long enough to heat it4 ,enough of the copper should be in contact with the tin to be soldered for the heat to flow quickly into the tin1 see ,fig4 #ah4 ,do not merely touch the point of the copper to the joint and expect it to heat that joint3 it won't4 ,two faces of the point of the copper should rest against the parts of the work to be soldered1 thus transmitting heat to the pieces as shown in ,fig4 #ai4 ,if too much of the point is allowed to come in contact with the work1 the solder will be smeared over the work in a broad unnecessary stream4 ,this is the reason that the points of coppers are filed slightly rounding toward the point4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,remember3 ,that the copper must be hot enough to make the solder glisten4 ,that a red-hot copper will not pick up solder4 ,that a red-hot copper burns away the flux1 and that it destroys the tinning at the point of the copper2 a red head also oxidizes the solder1 making it brittle and weak4 ,that solder will not fill up a gap in a joint unless in very expert hands2 joints should fit closely4 ,that a good joint should appear smooth2 look as if painted on4 ,a smooth joint is produced by a hot copper1 clean metal1 and good flux1 but most of all1 by leaving the copper long enough in the joint to heat it thoroughly4 ,that small joints are heated and soldered almost instantly4 ,that large joints require a longer time to heat up and that very heavy work requires a large copper and sometimes an outside source of heat as well--but we have nothing to do with such work in this book4 ,that work must be held together until the solder sets or turns gray1 as it may spring apart while the solder is molten4 ,these are all very simple facts and should not be difficult to remember4 ,to continue with the practice piece3 ,as soon as the solder has run in and around one end of the practice joint1 remove the copper and solder the joint at the other end of the piece4 ,as these joints are small1 they should heat up and solder very quickly4 ,one heating of the copper should do for both joints1 but be sure that the copper is hot enough before you try the second joint4 ,if difficulty is experienced in making your first joint and it does not stick together1 apply more flux and try again4 ,the handle may be soldered to the biscuit cutter in the same manner after the practice piece is successfully completed4 ,another ,method of ,applying ,solder4--,sometimes bits of solder may be cut from the strip of wire solder and placed in the joint to be soldered4 ,the hot soldering copper is then used to melt the solder into the joint4 ,the joint must be well fluxed before the solder is placed in position4 ,the end of a strip of wire solder is sometimes held against the point of a hot copper as it is moved along a joint to be soldered4 ,the solder is fed against the point of the hot copper as it melts into the joint4 ,both of the above methods will be found advantageous when a gaping joint is to be filled with solder and it is desirable to apply a quantity of solder in one place4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,cooky ,,cutters ,,the ,,pine ,,tree ,,design--,,cutting ,,narrow ,,strips ,,of ,,tin--,,bending ,,to ,,shape ,,over ,,design--,,soldering ,,cooky ,,cutters--,,the ,,handle ,cooky cutters of any simple design may easily be made from strips and pieces of tin cut from cans4 ,they may be made to stamp out any simple design from the cake dough1 such as flowers1 leaves1 trees1 animals1 boats1 various insignia1 etc4 ,when making the design for a cooky cutter1 remember that raisins1 currants1 pieces of citron1 nuts1 etc41 may be added to the cookies after stamping them out and used to accentuate the design1 as eyes of animals1 fruit on trees1 etc4 ,first draw the design on paper exactly the same size you wish the cooky to be and be sure to use a very simple outline1 taking care not to introduce too many intricate bends and to remember that a strip of tin must be bent to follow the outline of the drawing4 ,also remember that cake dough is not of very tough material and will easily break if cut in too narrow a strip in any place or part of the design4 ,do not try to make too realistic a design but rather one that suggests the desired object4 ,the pine or ,christmas tree design is a very simple one to make4 ,the ,pine ,tree ,design4--,first draw the pine tree on paper1 taking care to have both sides of the tree alike1 ,fig4 #bj4 ,a very simple method of obtaining this result is to fold the paper exactly in half1 open the paper out flat again and draw one-half of the tree1 using the folded line as the center of the tree and using a soft pencil to draw with4 ,fold the paper together again using the same fold line1 place the folded paper on a hard surface and rub the paper over the drawing with the bowl of a spoon so that the design is transferred to the other half of the paper1 so that when the paper is unfolded the design will be completed and both sides of the design will be alike4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,cutting ,narrow ,strips of ,tin4--,when you have a satisfactory design drawn1 cut open a large can so that when the tin from the can is flattened out you may cut from it a strip long enough to bend around and conform to your design and have only one joint4 ,be sure to trim up one edge of the tin to a straight line before starting to mark off a strip inch in width1 using the dividers for the marking operation as shown in ,chapter ,,ii1 page #ce4 ,be sure to cut your strip as straight as possible and of exactly the same width for its entire length4 ,bending to ,shape ,over ,design4--,when the strip is cut1 bring the ends of the strip together and press the bend in to form an angle4 ,this angle will not only form the top of the tree but will mark the center of the strip as well4 ,bend the strip apart until it conforms to the design on paper from the top of the tree to the first bend on one side as shown in ,fig4 #ba4 ,mark the strip of tin at ,a4 ,a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,take the flat-nosed pliers and bend the tin in on each side to conform to the line ,b4 ,let the ends of the strip go past each other as shown in ,fig4 #ba1 #b1 and in the illustration of bending4 ,next bend both ends of the strip at ,c4 ,c4 and so on until the complete outline of the tree drawn on paper is followed by the strip of tin4 ,the various steps in the bending are shown in ,fig4 #ba1 #a to #f4 ,the joint at the bottom of the design should overlap about inch4 ,this joint may be held together with the flat-nosed pliers and soldered4 ,take care to have the ends that are to be soldered square with the rest of the design so that when the cutting strip is placed flat down on the cutting board all the cutting edges will touch evenly and cut well4 ,when you have the ends of the cutting strip soldered together1 cut out a rectangular piece of tin somewhat larger than the design1 at least inch larger in every direction4 ,see that this piece of tin is perfectly flat and free from wrinkles4 ,look carefully at the cutting strip and see that it conforms closely to the design and then lay it in the center of the rectangular piece of tin4 ,secure a thin piece of wood slightly larger than the design4 ,wood from a packing box will do4 ,this strip of wood is held in place on top of the cutting strip in order to hold it when soldering the strip to keep it perfectly flat1 and to prevent burning the fingers4 ,the cutting strip gets very hot when it is being soldered in place4 ,soldering ,cooky ,cutters ,together4--,see that your soldering copper is well heated and tinned2 apply soldering paste to the entire joint where the cutting strip rests on the flat piece of tin and then apply the solder carefully in the usual manner with the hot soldering copper4 ,it will be found comparatively easy to apply solder to the longer parts of the strip1 such as those forming the sides of the tree1 but do not attempt to solder in the narrow crevice or crevices formed between the tree foliage1 the trunk1 and the top4 ,solder only where it is easy to introduce the point of the soldering copper1 then apply solder inside that part of the design forming the tree trunk as illustrated in ,fig4 #bc by the dark lines4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,the cutting strip need not be soldered to the flat piece of tin forming the back in every small crevice that is not convenient to the soldering copper4 ,but it must be soldered in such a way as to prevent the cutting strip from bending out of shape when used for cutting4 ,so1 if you may not solder it outside1 solder it inside4 ,be sure and hold the cutting strip firmly down to the flat tin with a flat piece of wood when soldering4 ,if the soldering does not go along well1 stop and read over ,chapters ,,iv and ,v on soldering4 ,take plenty of time and make a good job of it4 ,when the cutting strip is firmly soldered to the tin1 trim away the edges until they appear as shown in ,plate ,,viii4 ,do not try to follow every indentation in the design but cut to the general smooth shape indicated which leaves no sharp corners4 ,the edges of the tin forming the back of the cutter may be smoothed over with a small piece of fine emery cloth or fine sand-paper4 ,rubbing the edges gently with the emery cloth will dull them so that they are less apt to cut the fingers4 ,this applies only to the flat piece of tin forming the back or top of the cutter1 for the edges of the cutting strip should be left sharp4 ,punch two or more holes through the back of the cooky cutter to form air vents as you did when making the biscuit cutter4 ,the ,handle4--,a handle may be made for the cooky cutter in exactly the same way as the handle made for the biscuit cutter4 ,a strip of tin #a inches wide and #d inches long1 is about the right size for the handle4 ,the edges are folded in and the strip is rounded over an anvil and soldered into place as indicated in the photograph4 ,the edges of the handle should rest directly over the cutting strip under it4 ,when finished1 the cooky cutter should be boiled up in the lye bath or washed with hot water and strong soap and then it is ready for use4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,viii ,cooky cutter and tray candlestick made by the author ,ash trays made by the author ,,chapter ,,vii ,,trays ,,turning ,,over ,,edges ,,on ,,round ,,trays--,,using ,,the ,,forming ,,mallet--,,making ,,an ,,ash ,,tray ,,and ,,match ,,box ,,holder ,various round trays may be made from tin cans4 ,these are very simple to make and are very attractive and convenient for ash trays1 bottle casters and the like4 ,a match box holder may be soldered to the center of the tray and any smoker will appreciate this4 ,these simple trays have proved to be one of the most popular problems for certain wounded soldiers in an ,american base hospital in ,france4 ,turning ,over ,edges on ,round ,trays4--,select a rather large can to cut down for a tray4 ,a can from #d to #f inches in diameter is best with which to start tray making4 ,this can should be round1 as the square cans are very difficult1 if not impossible1 to handle when turning over an edge4 ,set the dividers to #a inches and scribe a line parallel to the bottom of the can4 ,cut the can down and be careful to cut it off as straight as possible at the scribed line4 ,place a square maple block in the vise2 the same maple block you have used for turning the edges of the handle for the biscuit cutter4 ,be sure that the edges of the block are square and sharp4 ,set the dividers to inch1 rest one leg of the dividers on the rim of the tray and scribe a line around the inside1 inch down from the edge1 as indicated in ,fig4 #bc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,rest the edge of the tray on the edge of the wooden block so that the line scribed inch down from the edge rests directly over the edge of the block as indicated in ,fig4 #bd a4 ,tilt the tray back on the block until the edge is raised about inch up from the surface of the block1 the line still resting directly over the edge of the block4 ,using the ,forming ,mallet4--,take up the special forming mallet and use the rounded end to start hammering the tin down to the block1 still keeping the tray tilted as indicated in ,fig4 #bd b4 ,turn the tray around as you hammer so that the tray is slightly flanged out by the mallet blows as you turn it around on the block4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd;a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd;b4 ,be sure to hammer the tin very gently and evenly1 taking care not to stretch it down more in one place than another4 ,tin will stand considerable stretching if handled gently and evenly1 but heavy mallet blows will stretch and crack it1 and it will tear if unevenly stretched4 ,never raise the edge of the tray away from the block more than of an inch1 but always tilt the tray back a little more each time you hammer entirely around it4 ,the tin will quickly flange out and after having hammered entirely around the tray three or four times1 the rim should flange out to about the angle indicated in ,fig4 #be1 ,no4 ,,iii4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,try to hammer in such a way as to flange the tin over evenly from the scribed line4 ,the mallet blows should be directed in toward the line which always rests at the edge of the block1 rather than toward the edge of the tin4 ,when the edge has been turned over as far as indicated in ,fig4 #be1 ,no4 ,,iii1 change the position of the tray and rest the bottom of it on the top of the block and hammer gently on the edge as indicated in ,fig4 #be until the edge or flange stands out at right angles to the side of the tray4 ,continue hammering until the edge of the tray stands at about the angle indicated in ,fig4 #be1 ,no4 ,v4 ,remove the maple block from the vise and secure a round wooden mallet in it1 the mallet being about #b or #c inches in diameter1 or a piece of iron pipe1 if held in the vise1 may be used for an anvil instead of the mallet4 ,hang the tray over the end of the mallet or pipe and hold it firmly in position1 turning it slowly around the anvil as the edge is hammered down to the side of the tray1 ,fig4 #bf4 ,do not try to hammer the edge down all at once1 but go entirely around the turned flange or edge several times with the mallet1 hammering very lightly and bending the edge down more each time the tray is hammered around4 ,the flanges or turned part will wrinkle slightly during the turning1 but if the edge has been turned evenly and slowly from the start1 this wrinkling will not matter1 as the wrinkles will gradually hammer out4 ,try to hammer in such a way that the edge or top of the tray will remain rounded and not get hammered together 7,fig4 #bg74 ,when the edge is turned completely in and touches the sides1 reverse the forming mallet and use the wedge-shaped end to hammer the wrinkles out1 taking care to hammer inside the edge so as not to flatten the edge of the tray1 ,fig4 #bh4 ,the edge should look like ,fig4 #bg1 and then your tray is finished and ready to be boiled up in the lye solution and painted4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,the edges of the tray may be made of any height that suits the maker1 but never try to turn over less than inch at the edge nor any more than inch1 as either operation is very difficult1 if not impossible4 ,the tin is taken up considerably in the turning and the inch marked off for the turned edge of the tray described above will be about of an inch when turned4 ,this turning operation is used a great deal for finishing the edges of different cylindrical and curved surfaces used in the tin can work1 as a sharp thin edge should never be left about the work4 ,making an ,ash ,tray and ,match ,box ,holder4--,make a tray about #f inches in diameter and of an inch in height when the edge is turned over1 and then find a smaller can about #b inches in diameter1 such as a soup or baking powder can4 ,scribe a line around this can #a inch from the base4 ,cut the can down to this line and place the can bottom up in the center of the bottom of the first tray1 holding it in position with a stick of wood and soldering it to the tray4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,open a box of safety matches and measure the diameter of the end of the box part that holds the matches4 ,the usual measurement of the end of the inside box is by #a inches4 ,cut a strip of tin of an inch wide and #b inches long4 ,make a mark inch from each end of the strip and bend the tin at right angles at each end1 using each mark for the bend4 ,the strip should then appear as shown in ,fig4 #bi1 ,a4 ,solder this strip in the center of the small can as shown in ,fig4 #bi1 ,b1 but make sure that the cover of the match box will slide over it before soldering it fast4 ,cut two pieces of tin #a inches wide and #b inches in length4 ,see that they are cut perfectly square4 ,mark off a line inch in from one end of each piece and turn the tin at right angles from this mark to the edge4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,the corners at the opposite ends of each piece should be rounded off by cutting with the shears as shown in ,fig4 #bi1 ,c4 ,round over the edges with some fine emery cloth4 ,place the cover of the match box in position over the strip of tin soldered to the can in the center of the tray4 ,place the two pieces of tin against the two opposite sides of the match box as shown in ,fig4 #bi4 ,then move them slightly away from the box and mark the position of the flanged ends where they rest on the can1 remove the box cover and solder these pieces of tin in place4 ,be sure to solder these pieces in such a way that the match box cover will slip between them easily and fit over the bent strip of tin at the bottom4 ,the ash tray and match box holder will then be completed and ready for the lye bath and painting4 ,an extra coat of some high-grade spar varnish should be given the ash trays to prevent the hot ashes from burning the paint4 ,this varnish should only be applied after the first coat or coats of paint are thoroughly dry4 ,the height of the trays at the edge may be altered to suit and also the height and shape of the can soldered to the center of the tray4 ,the measurements are merely given for convenience in working out these first problems4 ,every effort should be made to think out problems of your own1 taking the suggestions from the shapes of the cans themselves4 ,thus a square can may be soldered in the center of the tray1 and small semi-cylindrical troughs of tin may be soldered to the rim of the tray to hold lighted cigars and cigarettes4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,a ,,tray ,,candlestick ,,the ,,candle ,,socket--,,cutting ,a ,,hole ,,in ,,the ,,drip ,,cup--,,making ,,the ,,handle ,after the ash tray and match box holder is successfully completed the next problem that should be taken up is the tray candlestick1 a photograph of which is shown on the opposite page4 ,this problem presents some interesting and instructive forming and soldering operations and should be made before attempting to make the toy auto truck4 ,two trays should first be made up--one to be used for the base of the candlestick and one for the drip cup4 ,the edges of both trays should be turned over carefully4 ,the ,candle ,socket4--,the next thing to be made is the candle socket which is also used to connect both trays4 ,cut a piece of tin #b by #c inches1 set the dividers to inch and scribe a line inch inside three edges of the piece as shown in ,fig4 #ca1 ,no4 #a4 ,clip off the corners and fold down the strip marked ,a1 flat against the tin4 ,c and ,b should be partially folded over but not closed up1 ,fig4 #ca1 ,no4 #b4 ,these two flaps1 ,c and ,b are to be locked together to form a locked seam as shown in ,no4 #c4 ,if this seam or joint were merely lapped and soldered together the candle socket would melt apart if the candle should be allowed to burn down inside it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,place a small bar of iron in the vise jaws--this bar or pipe should be about inch in diameter and is used as an anvil over which to round up the candle socket4 ,lay the piece of tin that is to be used for the candle socket over the anvil with the fold ,a uppermost--bend the tin around the anvil with the hand or with light mallet blows1 taking care not to close up the flaps ,b and ,c as you round the piece over the anvil4 ,you will not be able to get the socket into a perfect cylindrical shape at first and until ,b and ,c are fitted together as shown in ,no4 #c4 ,simply round the piece up as best you can until flap ,b fits into flap ,c4 ,then use a pair of flat-nosed pliers to pinch ,b and ,c together as shown in ,no4 #d4 ,when the two seams are fitted together or locked the socket should be again placed on the bar and the hammering continued until the socket is cylindrical and the seam hammered together4 ,examine a tin can--most of them have locked seams at the side4 ,if carefully made1 this socket should fit a common candle which is of an inch in diameter4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,cutting a ,hole in the ,drip ,cup4--,when the candle socket is completed1 a hole should be cut for it through the bottom of the drip cup4 ,the socket is slipped through this hole until the bottom of the flange ,a rests against the bottom of the drip cup1 see ,fig4 #cb4 ,a small chisel should be used to cut the hole through the bottom of the drip cup4 ,the drip cup is rested on a small block of wood which is held in the vise jaws1 and the chisel used in the same manner as a punch1 the end of the wooden block supporting the tin as the chisel cuts through it4 ,the cutting edge of the chisel should be about -inch wide and should be very sharp4 ,such a chisel may be purchased at most tool dealers or a -inch nail-set may be purchased and the end ground to a chisel point on a grindstone4 ,a common steel nail may be used for a chisel if the point is filed off entirely and the end of the nail filed to a chisel point4 ,the shank of the nail should be inch in diameter4 ,set the bottom edge of the candle socket in the center of the drip cup and trace a line around it with a sharp pencil or a steel scriber4 ,then place the drip cup on a block of wood and cut out the disk of tin inside the line1 using a series of chisel cuts to follow the line4 ,take care not to cut the hole too large--it should just fit the candle socket as shown in the sectional drawing1 ,fig4 #cb4 ,a half-round file may be used to file away any rough or jagged edges left by the chisel cutting4 ,making the ,handle4--,a handle should next be made from a piece of tin #a by #h inches4 ,the handle should be made tapering and a dimensioned drawing for this is shown in ,fig4 #cc4 ,when the tin is cut to the shape shown the dividers should be set to inch and a line scribed inch inside each side of the handle4 ,the tin should be folded over on these lines so that the sides of the handle will be nicely rounded and made stronger4 ,directions for making a straight fold will be found on page #ej and need not be repeated here as the operation is very simple4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,the handle should be shaped as shown in ,fig4 #cd4 ,it may be shaped or formed up by placing it over a round anvil and using a mallet in exactly the same way that the handle of the biscuit cutter was formed1 see ,fig4 #ce1 except that the handle for the candlestick will have a better appearance if the folds are left on the outside1 see ,fig4 #cd4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cd4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ce4 ,the ends of the handle should be bent over at right angles as shown in ,fig4 #cd4 ,the small end hooks over the drip cup and the large end hooks over the edge of the tray or bottom of the candlestick4 ,the different parts of the candlestick are now ready to be soldered together4 ,the socket should be fitted into the drip cup and these two soldered together first4 ,apply the solder to the bottom of the drip cup and socket in the angle where the socket and the drip cup meet1 as shown in ,fig4 #cb4 ,when the socket and the drip cup are soldered together they should be set in position in the center of the bottom tray and soldered in place4 7,the candlestick will have a much better appearance if the seams in the side of the drip cup1 socket1 and bottom tray are in line with each other when the candlestick is soldered together47 ,the handle is the last thing to put in place and it is soldered to the drip cup and to the bottom tray--which will complete the candlestick4 ,many pleasing varieties of this simple and practical candlestick may be made by changing the diameter and shape of the cans used for the trays and the length of the candle socket and the shape of the handle4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,riveting ,,making ,a ,,pail ,,from ,a ,,tin ,,can--,,cutting ,,away ,,the ,,surplus ,,tin ,,at ,,the ,,rim--,,forming ,,the ,,lugs ,,for ,,the ,,handle--,,riveting ,,the ,,lugs ,,in ,,position--,,forming ,a ,,wire ,,handle ,riveting is one of the most useful operations connected with metal working of all kinds1 and it is very frequently used in tin working where it is not advisable to join the metal with solder2 or riveting may be employed in connection with a soldered joint to strengthen it and to prevent the joined pieces from melting off1 such as the lugs or handle holders on a pail used for cooking1 etc4 ,riveting is a very simple operation4 ,the rivets are usually made with a flat or rounded head attached to a short cylindrical shaft or shank4 ,a hole is punched through each piece of metal to be joined4 ,the pieces of metal are placed together so that the holes are in line and a rivet shank slipped through these holes4 ,the head of the rivet is then rested on a flat iron or steel anvil and the headless end is hammered over until it forms into a second head and thus holds the two pieces of metal tightly together4 ,the pail offers a very simple problem in riveting and it is very easy to make a substantial pail from a tin can4 ,making a ,pail4--,select a large1 clean1 round can for the pail4 ,a one-gallon fruit or vegetable can makes up into a very useful pail4 ,use a can opener to cut away the remaining tin of the lid but take care not to mar the rim of the can4 ,rolled rim cans make the best pails4 ,when the lid is cut away a jagged edge usually remains near the rim and this must be trimmed away and the remaining tin hammered down close to the rim4 ,if more than inch of the tin of the can lid remains next to the rim of the can it should be trimmed away with the metal shears until a strip of tin remains next to the rim about inch wide4 ,cutting ,away ,surplus ,tin at the ,rim4--7,a pair of curved metal shears are very useful for making circular cuts of this nature if you have them1 but the surplus tin may be trimmed away with the straight shears if small cuts are taken with them47 ,cut into the tin next to the rim with the shears--the cut should be made at right angles to the rim and extend in to the rim4 ,now take a pair of strong flat-nosed pliers and grasp the tin firmly with them to the right of the cut and with a quick downward motion of the plier jaws start to break away the tin next to the rim as shown in ,fig4 #cf4 ,the tin will break away at the angle of the lid and the rim and should peel away easily with a series of quick downward movements of the plier jaws--a fresh grip should be taken for each downward movement of the plier jaws and the ends of the plier jaws should be pushed up against the rim each time that they are moved into a new position4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cf4 ,when the tin is trimmed away place the rim of the can on the end of the maple block and use the rounded end of the forming mallet to hammer the tin down tight to the rim1 see ,fig4 #cg4 ,the pail is then ready for the lugs or handle-holding pieces at the sides4 ,these are to be soldered and riveted in place4 ,forming the ,lugs for the ,handle4--,cut two pieces of tin1 each #a by #c inches1 fold over inch on each of the long sides of these two pieces1 then double over each piece with the folds outside1 as shown in ,fig4 #ch4 ,snip off the corners1 then place the lugs on the maple block and punch three holes in about the position shown4 ,see that the holes are slightly larger than the shanks of the rivets to be used1 but do not get the holes very much larger than the rivets4 ,rivets are supplied by the hardware stores in plain soft black iron and also tinned4 ,the tinned rivets are best for tin work as they may be easily soldered to the work if necessary4 ,these tinned rivets are used for representing faucets1 try-cocks1 etc41 in making tin can toys4 ,several dozen or a box of ,no4 #ad ,tinned ,rivets should be purchased4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cg4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ch4 ,riveting the ,lugs in ,position4--,solder the two lugs in position on each side of the top of the pail4 ,these two holes should come below the rim4 ,place the pail over a round log of wood held in the vise and punch the holes ,a1 ,b through the tin of the pail1 using the holes previously punched in the lugs of the pail as a guide4 ,remove the log of wood from the vise and place a large piece of round pipe in it for an anvil on which to rivet4 ,push a rivet through the hole ,a1 and place the pail on the pipe in such a manner that the head of the rivet rests on the iron pipe4 ,take a small riveting hammer or a small machine hammer and hammer down the small end of the rivet that projects above the work1 see ,figs4 #ci and #dj4 ,hammer rather gently using many light quick blows instead of a few smashing heavy ones4 ,the light blows tend to form a better head on the rivet and to hold the metal more securely in place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ci4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dj4 ,after you have had some experience in riveting1 you will find that the ball peen1 or rounded end of a machine hammer1 is better to rivet with than a flat-ended hammer4 ,when two rivets are placed in each of the lugs the pail is ready for the handle4 ,forming a ,wire ,handle4--,pail handles may be made of -inch galvanized wire or any piece of strong1 stiff wire that is handy4 ,the galvanized wire is best as it will not rust4 ,cut a piece of wire #ad inches in length4 ,do not try to cut this wire with your metal snips but use a heavy pair of wire-cutting pliers if you have them4 ,a simple method of cutting wire is to place the wire in the vise and use the corner of a file to cut through it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #da4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #db4 ,trying to cut heavy wire with the metal shears will ruin them2 besides1 you can't do it4 ,mark off #a inches from each end of the piece of wire you have cut for the handle and bend each end down at right angles from this mark1 see ,fig4 #db1 ,a4 ,this may be easily done by placing the wire in the vise so that the mark for bending is held exactly at the top of the vise jaws1 then use a hammer to bend the wire over at right angles1 see ,fig4 #da4 ,place the wire over the pipe held in the vise and use a wooden mallet to round it over to the form shown in ,fig4 #db1 ,b4 ,slip the ends of the wire handle through the holes punched for it in the lugs on the pail and then turn the wire up at the ends with a heavy pair of pliers until it looks as shown in ,fig4 #db1 ,c1 and the pail is completed4 ,if the pail described above is made of a rolled-rim can it may be safely used for camp cooking1 as there is no danger that it will melt apart over the fire4 ,when a spout and a lid are added to the pail1 it will serve as an excellent coffee pot4 ,a coffee pot and other cooking utensils are shown in ,fig4 #ie4 ,,chapter ,x ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck ,,the ,,wheels--,,four ,,ways ,,of ,,making ,,wheels ,,of ,,tin ,,cans--,,making ,a ,,wheel ,,from ,a ,,can ,,with ,,soldered ,,ends--,,making ,,wheels ,,from ,,rolled-,,rim ,,cans--,,two ,,types ,,of ,,wheels ,,made ,,from ,,can ,,lids ,a very simple and strong toy automobile truck may be made of tin cans4 ,if the foregoing problems have been carefully worked out1 there is no reason why one should find the truck difficult to make1 provided the directions are carefully followed4 ,as the construction of a truck is typical of so many wheeled toys1 it was selected as the best type with which to begin4 ,various fittings may be added1 such as lights1 fenders1 running boards1 handles1 tool boxes1 etc41 but only after the plain truck chassis1 hood1 seat and wheels have been successfully assembled4 ,this first real problem in toy making should be kept as simple as possible4 ,wheels form the most important part of any rolling toy1 so these will be taken up first and each method of making them discussed at length4 ,four ,ways of ,making ,wheels of ,tin ,cans4--,both types of tin cans may be used for making wheels1 the rolled rim and the soldered flange can1 but the method of making the wheel is different for each type of can4 ,the press-in can lids from molasses and syrup cans may also be used for making wheels4 ,making a ,wheel from a ,can with ,soldered ,ends4--,suitable truck wheels may be made from the smallest size evaporated milk cans4 ,condensed milk cans are too large for a small truck1 though either of the above mentioned cans have the soldered flanged ends4 ,the contents of these evaporated milk cans is usually poured through one of two holes punched through the cover4 ,this renders the cover practically useless for making one side of the wheel1 unless the holes are small1 so that eight cans will have to be used for making four wheels4 ,if the cans are opened on the side with a can opener but four cans need be used1 as each end of the can is then intact4 ,these wheels are made by removing one lid from the can1 cutting the can down to the required wheel width1 and then soldering on the lid again4 ,when the ends of the can are intact1 the can is cut in two parts by cutting around the sides of the can with the can opener4 ,one part of the can is cut down to the required height as in making a tray2 this height represents the width of the wheel4 ,the end is melted off the other part of the can and this end is placed over the first part of the can that is cut to the width of the wheel4 ,it is then soldered in place and the wheel is made4 ,if plenty of evaporated milk cans are not handy1 it is better to buy four new1 filled cans from the grocer1 as these small cans cost only eight cents when filled with milk4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dc4 ,empty the cans by cutting a slit in the side with a sharp can opener1 see ,fig4 #dc4 ,hold the cans over a glass or jar until the milk runs out into the glass1 then rinse the cans out with hot water which will also remove the label4 ,continue cutting around the can with the can opener until it is completely cut in half4 ,all four cans should be emptied and cut in two in this manner4 ,as for the milk1 any cook will know what to do with that4 ,open the dividers to inch and scribe a line around the bottom of one of the cans that has been cut in two1 using the soldered edge of the rim against which to rest one point of the dividers1 as shown in ,fig4 #dd4 ,cut away the surplus tin exactly as if you were making a tray4 ,if the cans have become dented when they were being cut with the can opener1 place them on a round anvil and remove the dents by hammering gently with a mallet4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dd4 ,take up another half can and make a cut from the edge down to the flange at the bottom as shown in ,fig4 #de4 ,take an old pair of flat-nosed pliers and hold it over an open flame1 such as a gas range or the flame of a soldering copper heater1 until the solder shows in a bright line at the joint of the can and lid1 then take the forming mallet and give the lid at the bottom a sharp tap or two with it which should knock the lid away from the sides of the can held by the pliers1 see ,fig4 #de4 ,do not use your good pliers to hold the can over the flame1 as the heat will soon take the temper out of them and render them useless4 ,it is not necessary to get the can red hot in order to melt the solder4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #de4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #df4 ,when the lid is removed1 try to fit it on the other part of the can and it will be found impossible to force the tin into the lid without denting the sides of the can4 ,the rim or flange at the edge of the lid must be enlarged in order to place the lid back on the can4 ,the edge of the sides of the can to be fitted into the lid should be filed with a small flat file to remove the tin raised by the metal shears when cutting around the can4 ,to enlarge the rim of the lid1 place it over a piece of pipe held in a vise and hammer the rim with a light hammer1 turning the lid slowly around on the anvil as you hammer1 see ,fig4 #df4 ,after hammering completely around the flange once or twice1 try to fit the lid to the can again4 ,it should fit without much hammering4 ,squeeze the lid on the can and hammer it gently into place1 the wheel being placed flat on the bench at the time4 ,solder the lid in place and the wheel is finished except for the axle holes4 ,a small drop of solder will be found on the lid of all evaporated milk cans4 ,melt this away with a hot soldering copper and a round hole will be found exactly in the center of the lid4 ,this hole may be enlarged to fit the wire used for the axle4 ,find the center of the side of the wheel with the dividers as described on page #cg1 ,chapter ,,ii4 ,use an ice pick to punch a tiny hole exactly in the center of the wheel4 ,if -inch galvanized wire is to be used for an axle1 push the ice pick further into the hole1 turning the pick while doing so1 until the hole is just large enough to fit the axle wire4 ,repeat the process on the other side of the wheel until the hole there is enlarged to fit the axle wire1 ,fig4 #dg4 ,if the axle holes are not exactly in the center of the wheel1 it will not run true4 ,a little care used in punching the holes will cause it to run true enough for any toy4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dg4 ,if you possess a hand drill and a drill the same size of the wire used for an axle1 you may drill the hole in the center of the wheel instead of punching it through4 ,to do this1 first find the center of the wheel and then make a slight dent exactly in the center of the wheel with the ice pick or a small center punch4 ,the point of the drill is placed in this dent when starting to drill the hole4 ,i find it better to use a -inch drill and drill a hole through the center of the wheel with this first1 then use a drill the same size as the axle wire and enlarge the -inch hole with this4 ,in any case1 the wheel should be soldered together before the holes are put through the centers4 ,finish up the four wheels and lay them aside until the truck is nearly completed1 as the wheels are the last things to be added4 ,galvanized wire of or inch diameter is usually used for axles4 ,this wire is usually carried in stock at hardware stores4 ,it is usually furnished in coiled form and must be straightened out before being used4 ,a piece is cut from the coil of wire long enough to make the two axles4 ,it should then be placed on a flat metal surface and hammered straight4 ,making ,wheels from ,rolled-,rim ,cans4--,a very strong wheel may be used from rolled-rim cans4 ,this process is slightly different from that used with the soldered flange cans4 ,wheels from #b to #f inches in diameter may be made by this second method1 but unless this type of wheel is made from very small cans it is not so suitable for the truck as the wheels made from small evaporated milk cans4 ,eight rolled-rim cans will have to be used to make four wheels unless the cans are opened at the side when first emptied4 ,both types of wheels should be made so as to become familiar with the making of each type1 as both types are used in making the models shown in this book4 ,this second type of wheel is rather easier to make than the first1 but you should know how to make either type1 as then many different sizes of wheels may be made with whatever cans you may have4 ,the rolled rim is more often employed in making large cans than in the smaller ones4 ,to make wheels suitable for a truck of the size described here1 small soup cans may be used2 these are usually rolled-rim cans4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dh4 ,to make a wheel from two rolled-rim cans1 a line should be scribed about the base of the can1 inch from the bottom1 and the can cut down to this line1 see ,fig4 #dh1 ,a4 ,scribe a line inch from the base of the second can and cut this can down to this line4 ,make a cut every inch around the tin at the side of this second can1 each cut to reach the base or rim of the can1 see ,fig4 #di1 ,b4 ,place this part of the wheel on the wooden block and use the riveting hammer 7,c7 to drive the cut side of the can inward as shown in ,fig4 #di1 ,b4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #di4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ej4 ,now take up the can cut down to inch and place it over a pipe anvil which is held in the vise4 ,use a metal hammer and hammer around the edge of this can two or three times to enlarge it4 ,turn the can around the anvil when hammering it4 ,then try to push it down over the second or turned part of the second can as shown in ,fig4 #di1 ,d4 ,if it does not fit1 continue the hammering until the two parts of the wheel fit together and then solder them in place and the wheel is completed1 except for the axle holes1 which may be put in exactly the same way as they are put in the first type of wheel4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,ix ,steam roller made by author ,steam roller made by a boy of ten years of age in a grade school under the direction of ,mr4 ,arthur ,campbell ,the large roller of the toy steam roller shown in ,plate ,,ix is made of rolled-rim cans as are the large wheels of the toy traction engine shown in ,plate ,,xviii4 ,be sure to try both methods until you understand them thoroughly1 as a great deal depends on the ability to make good wheels for a toy model4 ,two ,types of ,wheels ,made from ,can ,lids4--,a third method of making wheels is to use two can lids soldered together1 but as it takes quite a while to collect eight can lids of the same diameter1 it is better to employ this method only occasionally1 as for flanged car wheels made to run on a track1 etc4 ,a glance at ,fig4 #ej1 ,a1 should be enough to show how these wheels are made up of two pushed-in can lids soldered together at their largest diameter4 ,the first two methods described result in wheels that look like the heavy truck wheels employed on actual trucks4 ,another type of wheel may be built of the flanged pushed-in lids4 ,in this type the lids are soldered together in just the opposite way as that described in the third method1 so that the flanges are on the outside of the wheels4 ,these wheels are generally used for belt wheels on the mechanical models1 ,fig4 #ej1 ,b4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck 7,continued7 ,,forming ,,the ,,chassis--,,using ,,the ,,wooden ,,roofing ,,folder--,,folding--,,using ,,the ,,vise ,,for ,,short ,,folding--,,using ,,the ,,hatchet ,,stake ,,for ,,folding ,forming the ,chassis4--,the chassis or frame of the truck may be made from a single piece of tin cut from a gallon fruit can4 ,all four edges are turned down so as to form a shallow tray or box4 ,cut a piece of tin #ab by #d inches4 ,use the dividers to mark off a line of an inch inside all four sides1 but be sure that the tin is cut perfectly square before you do this inside marking4 ,cut in to the lines ,a ,a on all four of the darkened lines as shown in ,fig4 #ea1 ,a4 ,place the tin on a sharp-edged block and fold down the long sides #a and #b first4 ,remember not to try to fold these long sides or folds down all at once1 but rather go over them two or three times lightly with the mallet as they are being turned down at a right angle4 ,take care that the tin folds over exactly at the line4 ,when the sides #a and #b are folded down at right angles1 fold down the ends #c and #d4 ,this will leave four small ends of the two long sides projecting beyond the ends as shown in ,fig4 #ea1 ,b4 ,fold these in over the ends of the chassis with a mallet4 ,hold them in place with a pair of flat-nosed pliers and solder them to the ends where they touch1 so that the chassis appears as shown in ,fig4 #ea1 ,c4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ea4 ,using the ,wooden ,roofing ,folder4--,folds of all kinds may be very easily and quickly made by using the wooden roofing folder1 ,plate ,,xii4 ,the work turned out by this simple machine is very straight and true1 particularly long folds or angles of tin4 ,the gauge may be set at any desired width up to of an inch and any number of folds of the desired width can be quickly and accurately produced by inserting the tin between the holding bars and closing up the folder4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eb4 ,the holding bars are shown at ,a ,a1 ,fig4 #eb4 ,the adjustable gauge at ,b1 ,c ,c are the wooden supports which are hinged together4 ,d is the iron handle1 ,e the adjusting screw1 ,f is the piece of tin to be folded4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,x ,dumping truck with body hoisted by winch under seat1 made by ,miss ,m4 ,c4 ,newman ,unpainted chassis of toy auto truck made by author ,dumping truck made by ,miss ,m4 ,c4 ,newman ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xi ,chassis of toy auto truck showing springs ,dumping truck made by a student of ,teachers ,college ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xii ,wooden roofing folder with a piece of tin inserted ready to fold ,the folder is shown in ,fig4 #ec4 ,both of these views are sectional to show the working of the folder4 ,the actual construction may be easily understood by looking at the actual folder4 ,the gauge ,b1 ,fig4 #eb1 is adjusted by first loosening up the five screws ,e with a screw driver and then pulling in or pushing out the gauge ,b to the desired width of the fold to be made4 ,the screws ,e are then tightened up with the screw driver and the tin inserted between the pieces ,a ,a4 ,the folder is then closed by grasping the handle ,d and closing the two sides of the folder together4 ,when the folder is opened1 the tin will be found to be folded over4 ,the fold may then be completed with the mallet if it is desired to close it up against the tin4 ,to form a right angle the folder is not completely closed4 ,a little experimenting with a piece of scrap tin will show how far to close the folder in order to obtain a given angle4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ec4 ,care should be taken to set the gauge ,b parallel with the holding bar ,a4 ,the folder is ordinarily set at inch4 ,this is the width of most of the folds made in the tin4 ,this simple machine will save much time in tin working and one should be purchased if possible4 ,it is practically the only way a long fold in a narrow strip of tin may be made accurately4 ,the folder may be used to fold down the two long sides of the chassis1 the ends may then be turned down over the edge of a block as the ends of the long folds will prevent placing the short folds in the folder4 ,narrow strips of tin may be folded over and hammered together with the mallet4 ,these strips of tin may be slipped over the sharp edges at the bottom of each side of the chassis1 thus making the edges very strong and removing the danger of cutting the fingers4 ,fig4 #ea1 ,d1 shows an enlarged view of a corner of the chassis with the folded tin strips slipped over the lower edges4 ,these narrow folded strips are very easily made on the folding machine4 ,cut two strips of tin by #ab inches and set the folder to fold inch1 place the tin in the folder and fold it over4 ,remove it from the folder and hammer it nearly together with the mallet and then place a separate strip of tin in the folded part and continue hammering with the mallet until the folded tin is closed in on the inside or inserted strip of tin4 ,the folded strip is then ready to slip over the edge of the side of the chassis and to be soldered to it in several places2 that is1 the folded strip need not be soldered to the chassis continuously1 but may be held in place by soldering about every four inches4 ,the two short strips of tin by #d inches should then be cut1 folded and soldered in place at the short ends of the chassis4 7,no sharp edge should be left about a tin can toy when it may be avoided by folding or covering47 ,a long narrow strip of tin is rather difficult to fold without the use of a folder1 but it may be done with the mallet and block as follows3 ,folding4--,if a strip of tin by #ab inches is to be folded over1 it is better to cut a strip of tin #a by #ab inches4 ,mark off inch all along one long edge and fold it down over a block as in making the handle of the cooky cutter1 for you will then have more metal to hold to while folding4 ,when the piece is completely folded down to a right angle1 turn it over on the block and close the tin down with a mallet1 inserting a piece of tin before closing the tin together4 ,then the surplus tin may be cut away and you have a narrow folded strip4 ,as in all folding by hand using the mallet and the block1 the tin should be gradually folded into place4 ,using the ,vise for ,short ,folding4--,the vise may be used to fold short pieces of tin very accurately4 ,the folding line is first marked on the tin2 the tin is then placed and held in the vise jaws so that the line is parallel with and exactly at the top of the jaws4 ,the mallet is then used to hammer the tin over to the required angle1 see ,fig4 #ed4 ,a very sharp accurate fold should result4 ,using the ,hatchet ,stake for ,folding4--,a special stake has been devised for folding tin4 ,this is called the hatchet stake and is listed in the supplementary tool list4 ,it is made in the shape of the letter ,t4 ,the horizontal part is made like a long narrow-bladed hatchet1 and the vertical shank attached to it may be held in the vise or set in a hole in the bench1 see ,fig4 #ee4 ,the top edge of this tool is perfectly straight and fairly sharp4 ,one side of the blade runs straight down from the edge and the other side slopes down at an angle considerably less than a right angle4 ,the top edge of the hatchet stake is used to fold the tin over and it is specially formed to permit the folding of more than a right angle4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ee4 ,to use the hatchet stake1 a folding line is first marked on the tin4 ,this line is kept directly over and parallel with the top or edge of the stake and the mallet is used to fold the tin1 the mallet blows being directed at the top of the stake as shown in ,fig4 #ef4 ,the hatchet stake is a very handy tool about the shop1 even if a folder is included in the equipment1 as there are some jobs that will not permit the use of the folder to complete them4 ,strips of tin as long as the blade of the hatchet stake may be accurately folded over as follows3 ,a strip of maple #a inch thick and #b inches wide and as long as the blade of the stake may be clamped against the flat side of the blade of the hatchet stake with the tin to be folded held tightly between the maple strip and the blade4 ,the mallet is then used to fold the tin over toward the sloping side of the blade1 ,fig4 #eg4 ,sometimes two strips of maple may be clamped to a piece of tin to hold it accurately while being folded1 but this method is rather cumbersome4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ef4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eg4 ,the different methods of folding have been described at length so that the reader may become familiar with all of them1 but a great deal of folding may be done over a sharp-edged maple block1 if you have nothing else with which to work4 ,professional tinners use a very convenient folding machine made of metal1 but these are very costly and need not be described here4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck 7,continued7 ,,making ,,the ,,hood ,,and ,,radiator--,,cutting ,,the ,,vents--,,soldering ,,on ,,the ,,filler ,,cap ,the hood and radiator may be made from a cocoa tin1 a small olive oil or cooking oil can1 provided that the can is shaped as shown in ,fig4 #eh1 which shows the bottom and sides of a cocoa tin4 ,the can is first cut down to the dotted line ,a4 ,then the can is cut at the dotted line ,b4 ,then some holes are punched in regular rows in the bottom of the can to produce the radiator4 ,slits are cut in the side of the can to form vents and a cap from a tooth-paste or paint tube is soldered on near the rolled rim for a filler cap and the hood is complete as shown in ,fig4 #ei4 ,the rectangular can selected for the hood is marked and cut to shape as follows3 ,open the dividers to #b inches and mark the line ,a around the can1 ,fig4 #eh4 ,before cutting the can down to this line set the dividers to #b inches and mark the line ,b horizontally around the can4 ,to do this1 rest the can flat on the bench and on the side that is to form the top of the hood4 ,rest one point of the dividers on the bench and let the other point rest against the side of the can where the dotted line ,b is indicated4 ,still holding the can flat on the bench1 move it against the divider point in such a manner that the line ,b is scribed horizontally around the sides and bottom of the can4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eh4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ei4 ,cut the can down to the line ,a1 then take up a small sharp-cornered file and file completely through the rolled rim at the corners marked ,c and ,c on the line ,b4 ,use the edge of the file and make a triangular cut4 ,this filing will greatly simplify cutting the rolled rim which is hard to cut through with the shears4 ,then cut into the rim on the line ,b1 cutting from the line ,a4 ,bend the two halves of the can open far enough to admit the shears and cut across the bottom of the can on the dotted line ,b4 ,cut very carefully so that the part of the can at the line ,b1 forming the bottom of the hood1 will rest flat on the bench all around4 ,if it rests flat on the bench1 it will rest flat on the tin frame of the truck where it is to be soldered in place4 ,the next thing to do is to punch the holes to form the radiator4 ,the front of the hood is rested on a block of wood and a very sharp punch should be used for punching the holes1 such as an ice pick or a very sharp-pointed nail4 ,first mark off the radiator in regular squares1 using the depressed line usually found in the bottom of this type of can as a boundary line for the squares4 ,divide up the space into squares as indicated in ,fig4 #fj1 ,a1 leaving a clear border of tin all around the space to be punched4 ,find a block of wood that will fit inside the hood as shown in ,fig4 #fj1 ,c1 and place one end of this in the vise4 ,see that the end is sawn off square before placing the hood over it in the position shown4 ,take up the punch and carefully punch the holes as they are marked by the dots in ,fig4 #fj1 ,a1 at each line intersection4 ,then punch a hole in the center of each square and then a hole should be punched between every other hole on all the lines forming the squares1 see ,fig4 #fj1 ,b4 ,care should be taken to punch all the holes of the same size and to get them in regular rows4 ,this makes a neat and workman-like job4 ,cutting the ,vents4--,vents may be cut in each side of the hood with a sharp chisel4 ,an old wood or carpenter's chisel about an inch wide will do very well or a sharp cold chisel may be used4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fj4 ,use the same wooden block that you used to punch out the radiator on and place it horizontally in the vise jaws so that enough of it projects beyond them to support the hood as shown in ,fig4 #fa4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fa4 ,use the dividers to mark off four or five vents and see to it that they are laid out square with the hood4 ,try to find a chisel that is as wide as the vent is long1 a #a-;inch cutting edge is about right4 ,place the edge of the chisel squarely on the mark and hammer it through the tin with several blows from the mallet4 ,make these cuts very straight and parallel with each other4 ,cut the vents in both sides of the hood and the hood is then ready to have the filler cap soldered on4 ,soldering on the ,filler ,cap4--,use a large sized screw cap of a tooth-paste tube or the cap from a paste or paint tube for the filler cap4 ,some of these caps are octagonal in shape and have various initials stamped on the top and these look very much like the filler caps used on the radiators of real automobiles4 ,clean away all paste or paint from the inside of the cap and then scrape the lower edge bright and clean4 ,these caps are usually made of a combination of metals that is very much like the solder used for soldering tin and they will melt very easily if brought in contact with a soldering copper1 so that the cap must be soldered to the hood by an indirect heating method4 ,soldering paste is first applied to the top of the hood where the cap is to be soldered and then a small puddle of solder is applied to the tin at this place with a hot soldering copper4 ,the solder is allowed to cool and then the cap is placed in position on the solder after applying a bit of soldering paste to its lower edge4 ,heat the soldering copper very hot and apply it inside the hood so that as much of the point as possible rests directly under the puddle of solder on which the cap rests1 ,fig4 #fb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fb4 ,hold it in this position until the puddle of solder melts and a bright line of solder is seen to run around the base of the cap where it rests on the hood4 ,remove the copper just as soon as the solder melts and runs around the cap and let the solder harden before moving the hood about4 ,if the cap moves out of place while the solder is molten1 owing to the bubbling of the soldering paste1 it may immediately be pushed back into place with a matchstick before the solder hardens4 ,the hood will become very hot before the solder melts under the cap1 but it may be easily held to the bench by wrapping a rag around it to protect the hand4 ,a thick square bar of iron may be heated to a dull red at the end and used in place of the soldering copper for soldering on the cap4 ,either the copper or the bar of iron must be very hot4 ,they must be heated to a much greater temperature than ordinarily used for soldering4 ,when the filler cap is soldered in place the hood is ready to be soldered to the frame1 but the dash-board and seat should be made before this is done4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck 7,continued7 ,,the ,,dash-,,board--,,the ,,seat--,,assembling ,,the ,,truck--,,springs--,,soldering ,,the ,,wheels ,,on ,,the ,,axles--,,strip ,,washers ,the ,dash-,board4--,the dash-board is the next thing to be made1 and then the seat4 ,the hood1 dash-board and seat are then soldered to the frame4 ,four imitation springs are then made and soldered to the bottom of the frame2 holes are punched in these for axles2 the wheels and axles are put in place1 and the chassis of the truck is finished4 ,the dash-board may be formed in two ways2 one way is to use part of a rolled-rim can1 the rolled rim forming the top1 and the other way is to fold over three edges of a piece of tin and form this into a dash-board4 ,the first method looks better1 but the last method is easier4 ,select a large rolled-rim can1 measure off #e inches along the rolled rim and from each end of this measurement1 run a line #b inches down the side of the can4 ,then mark a line around the can #b inches down from the rolled rim and cut the can down to this line exactly as you would cut a can down to any line1 see ,fig4 #fc4 ,then cut out the piece #b by #e inches including the rim4 ,use the flat-nosed pliers and break away the tin next the rim where the can was first opened with the can opener1 just as you did when making a pail4 ,hammer down any tin left next the rim and then place the piece of tin on the bench or flat anvil and flatten it down1 rolled rim and all4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fc4 ,use the dividers to mark off inch along the two short ends of the piece at right angles to the rim1 then use a file to cut off inch at each end of the rolled rim4 ,cut in on each of the darkened lines ,a ,a to the lines ,b just under the rolled rim1 ,fig4 #fd4 ,then fold the metal in between the lines ,b and ,c to give a rounded edge to the sides of the dash-board1 as shown in ,fig4 #fe4 ,place a piece of round bar iron or a pipe about #a inch in diameter in the vise and round over each end of the dash-board so that the folded edges are inside as shown in ,fig4 #fe1 and then round over the ends of the rolled rim with a flat file to make them smooth and the dash-board is finished4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fd4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fe4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ff4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fg4 ,to make a dash-board out of a flat piece of tin1 cut out a piece #b by #e inches4 ,set the dividers to inch and scribe a line inch inside three edges of the piece4 ,cut off two corners at the top and fold in the flaps to the dotted line as shown in ,fig4 #ff4 ,round over the ends of the dash-board as described above and to the same dimensions4 ,the ,seat4--,a very simple seat may be made for the truck out of three pieces of tin4 ,use a piece of tin with the rolled rim at the top as in making the dash-board4 ,cut a piece of tin #c by #c inches1 fold in two of the sides exactly as you did for the dash-board and cut off the rolled rim until it is even with the sides after turning and round over the ends of the rolled rim with a file4 ,use the dividers to mark two lines parallel with the rolled rim1 one line #a inch in and the other #b inches as shown in ,fig4 #fg by the dotted lines4 ,bend the piece over a block as shown until it is shaped like the seat shown in ,fig4 #fh4 ,cut two pieces of tin #a by #a inches4 ,mark a line inch in from the ends of one of the short sides of each piece and bend this part at right angles1 ,fig4 #fh1 ,a4 ,these two pieces are to be slipped under each end of the seat and soldered to it and then trimmed off with the shears until the whole bottom edge of the seat rests flat on the frame where it is to be soldered4 ,the two side pieces or supports are made too long purposely so that they may be trimmed off after they are soldered to the seat4 ,the hood1 dash-board and seat should be soldered in place4 ,assembling the ,truck4--,set the dividers to inch and scribe a line inch in from the front end of the frame4 ,place the front of the hood parallel with this line and see that the hood is set exactly in the middle of the frame2 that it is set at the same distance from the side of the hood to the side of the frame on each side4 ,solder the hood in place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fh4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fi4 ,when soldering the hood to the frame1 it is better to rest the frame on a block of wood so that the block supports the frame that is directly under the hood when soldering the hood to the frame4 ,the block will prevent the tin from bulging down from the heat of the copper and from the pressure of the hand when holding the hood in place to solder it4 ,set the dash-board in place back of the hood and see that it fits snugly in place against the hood and also the frame and then solder it in place4 ,if every joint is made to fit snugly before attempting to solder it1 no trouble should be experienced1 but sometimes a crack will develop owing to the expansion of the tin under heat of the soldering copper4 ,these cracks may be filled in with solder by feeding a strip of solder against the point of the hot copper when soldering4 ,this causes a lot of solder to run into the crack and fill it4 ,solder the seat in position so that the front of the seat is about #a inch from the ends of the dash-board4 ,springs4--,holes may be punched through the sides of the frame and the axles run through them if a very simple truck is to be made1 but imitation springs may be easily made from part of the sides and bottom of a can4 ,these springs raise the frame of the truck above the axles and give it a more realistic appearance4 ,cut two three-inch cans down to inch in height4 ,turn these cans bottom up and place the ruler across the rim of each can bottom in turn in such a way as to measure #b inches from rim to rim4 ,then measure off another #b inches on each rim as shown in ,fig4 #fi4 ,file through the rims at ,a ,a and then cut straight down the sides of the can at ,a ,a ,a which should give you three springs from each can4 ,solder two springs to the bottom and side of the frame inch from the front end and the two rear springs should be soldered #a inch in from the back end4 ,use an ice pick to punch a hole in each spring to receive the axle and be sure that these holes are all the same distance from the top of the frame 7use the dividers to determine this71 and also that each hole is square across from the opposite axle hole 7use the try square to determine this74 ,the axle holes should be punched through with an ice pick and be made somewhat larger than the axle wire so that the axle wire fits very loosely in the hole1 but be sure to have all the holes the same size4 ,soldering the ,wheels on the ,axles4--,the wire axles should be cut long enough to go entirely through each wheel and across the frame and to allow a distance of inch between the frame of the truck and each wheel4 ,the length of the axles may be easily determined by placing the frame of the truck flat on the bench and placing the two wheels in position1 each wheel to stand out inch from the side of the truck4 ,measure the distance with a ruler from the outer edge of one wheel to the outer edge of the other and add inch to this distance1 see ,fig4 #gj4 ,cut the two wire axles to this measurement and see that they are perfectly straight after cutting4 ,place one end of an axle through a wheel until the end of it projects beyond the outside of the wheel about of an inch4 ,put some soldering paste on the end of the axle and on the wheel next to the axle and use a well-heated soldering copper to solder the wheel to the axle4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ga4 ,to do this1 place the wheel flat on the edge of the bench so that the axle hole is just over the edge and so that the axle may be held against the side of the bench4 ,hold the wheel and axle firmly in this position and lay the hot soldering copper1 well charged with solder1 on the end of the axle wire just above the wheel4 ,the end of the axle will heat up very quickly and the solder should run down and form a puddle about the axle when that part of the wheel next the axle is heated up to the flowing point of the solder4 ,the end of the axle should not project more than inch beyond the wheel and the soldering copper should be heated thoroughly and be well charged with solder1 see ,fig4 #ga4 ,the wheels need only be soldered to the axle on one side of each wheel if the holes for the axle fit it very snugly4 ,another method of holding the wheel in position on the axle while being soldered is to drill a hole exactly the same size as the axle through a fairly thick block of wood and to push the axle through this hole until just enough of it projects so that when the wheel is slipped over it inch of the axle will project beyond the wheel4 ,the wooden block may then be placed in the vise and the wheel slipped over the axle and soldered to it4 ,the hole drilled through the block must be drilled at right angles to the face of the block where the wheel is to rest4 ,a hole may be drilled at right angles to a wood or metal surface by using a bench or post drill if you have one4 ,wheels may be set on the axle very accurately by this last method4 ,when one wheel is soldered to each axle lay them aside and make some washers for the axles before the two remaining wheels are soldered on4 ,these washers are placed on the axles between the frame and each wheel to keep the wheels from running against the truck4 ,strip ,washers4--,these washers may be made from narrow strips of tin wound around the axles like a tightly coiled clock spring4 ,cut a strip of tin of an inch wide and #h inches long4 ,take a pair of round-nosed pliers and bend one end over at a sharp curve that fits about the axle wire4 ,hold the curved part of the tin to the axle with the flat-nosed pliers and wind the tin around the wire in a right coil taking fresh grip on the tin strip with the pliers each time the tin is wound around4 ,wind the tin about the axle four times and then cut the remaining tin away and use it to make the other three washers1 see ,fig4 #gb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gc4 ,slip one washer on one of the axles next to one of the wheels soldered to it2 then push the axle through the axle holes in the springs and then place another washer on it before placing another or second wheel on the axle4 ,the washers are not soldered in place but simply left loose on the axle4 ,the second wheel is placed on the axle and soldered to it as the first wheel was4 ,the truck may be placed on its side to bring the second wheel into a convenient position for soldering4 ,be sure that the axle turns easily in the axle holes and that there is plenty of room for the washers between the sides of the frame and the wheel before soldering the second wheel in place4 ,the second wheel may be soldered on the second axle in the same way and then the chassis is finished and ready to run1 see ,fig4 #gc4 ,various bodies may be placed on the rear of the chassis and a steering wheel1 crank and lights may be added when it is thus far successfully completed1 and these will be described in the next chapter4 ,do not be discouraged if you have managed to get more solder about the truck than seems necessary1 as it may be scraped away as described in ,chapter ,,xxi1 page #bjj4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck 7,continued7 ,,truck ,,bodies--,,different ,,types ,,of ,,bodies ,,to ,,be ,,fitted ,,to ,,the ,,same ,,chassis--,,the ,,tank ,,truck--,,the ,,street ,,sprinkler--,,the ,,coal ,,or ,,sand ,,truck--,,the ,,army ,,truck--,,the ,,ambulance--,,the ,,fire ,,engine ,a permanent body of a certain type may be soldered directly to the rear part of the chassis or slides may be soldered to the rear part of the chassis and different types of truck bodies arranged to fit into these slides so that one chassis may be arranged to hold a number of different bodies4 ,a coal truck may be transformed into a tank truck and from a tank truck into an army truck or an ambulance1 etc4 ,a driver's cab may be fitted over the seat and any number of realistic details added to the truck1 limited only by the ability of the maker4 ,the wagon body is the simplest to make1 as it may be made from a square can with rounded corners4 ,the two quart or gallon cans that have contained olive or cooking oils make up into very realistic truck bodies4 ,the body of the army truck shown in the frontispiece was made from a two-quart can that had contained a cooking oil of a very well-known brand4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gd4 ,the object is to find a rectangular can that is just about the width of the chassis so that the tops of the wheels will clear it nicely4 ,cut the can in two lengthwise1 using the file to cut through the rounded or rolled rims1 see ,fig4 #gd1 ,a4 ,the can will probably be too long for a well proportioned body and will have to be cut down to a suitable length1 about #g inches4 ,truck bodies usually overhang the chassis4 ,study some of the big trucks seen on the streets1 as some of them are remarkably easy to reproduce4 ,if the can has to be shortened1 use a can opener or the double cutting shears and cut around the can #a inch from either end until one end of the can is completely cut away1 then cut the shorter end down to inch at the side1 leaving that much of the side of the can so that it may be slipped inside the other or larger part of the can when that part of the can is cut down to a suitable length1 when the shorter end is soldered in place to form the end of the body1 see ,fig4 #gd1 ,b4 ,when one end is cut off the can1 cut the can in two lengthwise so that the part to be used is about #a inches high1 and then cut off the shorter end so that it is also #a inches high to correspond to the other part of the body4 ,then fit in the end of the can and solder it in place4 ,cut four strips of tin inch in width1 two of them as long as the two sides of the can and two as long as the ends and fold these strips over to make a protection for the top edges of the body just as you did for the lower edges of the chassis4 ,solder these strips in place and the body is finished and ready to be soldered to the truck1 see ,fig4 #gd1 ,c4 ,different ,types of ,bodies to be ,fitted to the ,same ,chassis4--,the body described above may be soldered directly to the chassis of the truck or to a strip of tin and so arranged as to slide onto the chassis between two slides made of folded tin4 ,these slides are soldered directly to the chassis in the rear of the seat and the different types of bodies arranged to fit between them1 thus using the same chassis for as many different types of bodies as one cares to make for it4 ,the fixed slides should be made of two -inch strips of tin as long as the back or floor of the chassis1 about #f inches4 ,these strips are folded over into a gutter shape as are the strips used to protect the bottom edge of the truck frame1 but the folded strips used for the slides are left somewhat more open1 about inch between the edges1 so that when soldered to the truck a strip of tin may be easily slipped between them as shown in ,fig4 #ge4 ,a flat strip of tin should be cut as long as the two slides and of such a width that it will fit easily into the slides soldered to the truck to receive it4 ,care should be used when soldering the slides to the truck to get them parallel with the sides of the frame and also parallel with each other as shown in ,fig4 #ge4 ,several cross-members may be made of folded tin and may be soldered to the flat piece of tin that is to slide between the slides4 ,the truck body should be soldered to these cross-members so that the body will clear the fixed slides when slipped into place4 ,these cross-members or body supports are usually found under the bodies of large trucks and they add a very realistic touch to the model4 ,they should be just long enough to clear the edges of the fixed slides when attached to the flat strip of tin4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ge4 ,cut three pieces of tin #a inches wide and long enough to make the cross-members1 about #c inches 7make sure of this measurement for yourself74 ,scribe a line inch in from each of the long sides of the three pieces and then fold down two sides of each piece from the scribed lines1 making three cross-members or supports as shown in ,fig4 #gf4 ,solder these to the flat strip of tin that is to fit between the fixed slides4 ,the truck body should be soldered to these three supports4 ,a round can with the lid soldered on will make a very satisfactory tank truck4 ,a part of a small can1 such as a tooth powder can1 may be soldered to the top of the tank for a filler dome and imitation faucets made of wire or of brass cup hooks may be soldered to the rear of the tank and a small delivery can may easily be made and hung on the faucets as shown in ,plate ,,xiii4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gf4 ,six different types of truck bodies that may be attached to the chassis are shown in ,fig4 #gg4 ,the ,tank ,truck4--,the tank truck is made from a rectangular cooking oil can with a part of a small can soldered to the top4 ,the faucets are made of pieces of galvanized wire bent over at an angle4 ,the ,street ,sprinkler4--,the street sprinkler may be made from a large round can1 such as a molasses or syrup can with the lid soldered on to make it water tight4 ,a hole is cut in the top of the can and the top1 or open end1 of a small soup can is soldered over the hole4 ,the sprinkler tubes are made of strips of tin rolled around a large nail and then soldered together4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gg4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xiii ,oil tank truck made by ,miss ,nell ,guilbert1 ,teachers ,college ,toy ,ford made by author ,rear view of toy ,ford made by author4 ,tires are made of teething rings ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xiv ,red ,cross ambulance made by ,miss ,frances ,jones ,rear of ,red ,cross ambulance made by ,miss ,jones ,the sprinkler ends are made of small round metal boxes with tiny holes punched in the under side4 ,a hole is punched in the top of each round box and the sprinkler ends are soldered to the tubes and the tubes soldered to the tank which has holes punched in it to admit water to the tubes in such a way that the water contained in the tank will flow from the tank into the tubes and out of the sprinkler holes punched in the small boxes4 ,these small boxes or sprinkler ends may be made of thumb tack boxes or from two bottle caps soldered together1 but the crinkled part should be cut away from the bottle caps before soldering4 ,the ,coal or ,sand ,truck4--,the coal or sand truck body is made of less than half of a rectangular cooking oil can1 the top of each side flared out and extra pieces fitted to each end so as to fit into the flaring sides and to each end4 ,all sharp edges should be folded over or extra folded strips of tin folded over and placed over the edges of the truck body4 ,the ,army ,truck4--,the army truck body is made from part of a cooking oil can4 ,galvanized wire of small diameter is bent into hoop form and soldered to the sides4 ,these hoops may be covered with a khaki-colored cloth like the one shown on the large army truck in frontispiece2 a khaki-colored handkerchief will make an excellent cover for a small truck4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gh4 ,the ,ambulance4--,the ambulance body may be made from a large cooking oil can4 ,both ends are cut out of the can and the extra tin trimmed away4 ,one side of the can is cut off and a flat piece of tin soldered across the open side of the can to form the floor of the ambulance4 ,a hood to cover the driver's seat is made from the curved side of the can cut away to form the floor of the body4 ,two strips of tin may be soldered to the side of the body to form seats or stretchers and two pieces of galvanized wire may be soldered to the seats and to the floor and roof of the body to form handles4 ,the rear step may be made of a piece of folded tin and two pieces of galvanized wire as shown4 ,a realistic touch may be given to the ambulance by making a small curtain of carriage leather and attaching it to the rear of the roof so that it may be rolled up and fastened in place4 ,the ,fire ,engine4--,the fire engine boiler may be made from a tomato can with several different sized can lids soldered to the bottom to form the smoke hood and a cylinder of tin soldered to the lids to form a chimney4 ,the flaring top of the chimney may be made of the small center lid sometimes found in the ends of round cans4 ,this small lid or sealer may be melted off1 the center cut out of it1 and then may be soldered to the top of the chimney4 ,the steam gauge and water gauge may be made of the screw tops of cooking oil cans4 ,the water glass may be made of a small piece of galvanized wire and the try cocks of rivets soldered to the boiler4 ,the rivets may be held in place while soldering by a pair of pliers4 ,the boiler platform may be made of a sardine can4 ,the engine and pump cylinders may be made of adhesive tape boxes or strips of tin rolled into cylindrical form and ends soldered in place4 ,the engine wheel may be made from an evaporated milk can4 ,the air chamber may be made from a nickeled shaving stick box or a brass curtain pole ball4 ,the whistle may be made from a used 4#bb cartridge case1 etc4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,auto ,,truck 7,continued7 ,,the ,,starting ,,crank--,,the ,,steering ,,wheel ,,and ,,column--,,mud ,,guards ,,and ,,running ,,boards--,,lights1 ,,tool ,,boxes1 ,,horns1 ,,etc4--,,drivers' ,,cabs ,various fittings may be added to the truck and these add very much to the general appearance and make the truck very realistic4 ,the ,starting ,crank4--,a starting crank may be made of a piece of galvanized wire bent into a crank shape and placed in position through holes punched for it in front of the frame and through an extra piece soldered underneath the frame4 ,cut a piece of galvanized wire about #e inches in length4 ,fairly heavy wire will look better than thin wire when made up into a crank4 ,mark off #a inch from one end of the wire and then make another mark #a inch in from this one4 ,place the wire in the vise jaws so that the first mark is parallel with the top of the jaws4 ,use a hammer to bend the wire over at right angles1 then move the wire up to the second mark and bend the wire again at right angles so as to produce a crank form as shown in ,fig4 #gi4 ,use an ice pick to punch a hole in the front of the truck frame and make it large enough so that the crank will turn in it freely4 ,cut a piece of tin by inches and bend over inch at one end and punch a hole to fit the crank wire in the center of the largest side of this piece and solder it in position directly back of the hole punched in the front of the frame and in such a position that the end of the crank wire projects about inch beyond the small angle piece soldered to the frame1 as shown in ,fig4 #hj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gi4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ha4 ,wind a narrow strip of tin about the straight projecting end of the crank wire and solder it in place1 the solder being applied to the end of the wire and to the end of the coiled strip of tin at the same time1 ,fig4 #ha4 ,the ,steering ,wheel and ,column4--,a steering wheel may be made of an old clock gear wheel with the teeth cut off1 or a small can lid may be used instead4 ,the steering wheel column may be made of a piece of heavy galvanized wire4 ,clock gear wheels are usually fastened to a short steel shaft1 but they may be easily driven off the shaft by placing the shaft of the wheel in the vise jaws so that the wheel is above the vise jaws1 and then a few light hammer blows directed at the upper end of the shaft will loosen the wheel and it may be easily removed4 ,the vise jaws should hold the shaft very loosely as it is being driven out of the wheel4 ,use the metal shears to cut off the gear teeth and a smooth flat file to file down the roughness left at the edge of the wheel4 ,find a piece of galvanized wire that fits into the hole in the clock wheel or file a larger piece down until it does fit4 ,the wire should project slightly beyond the wheel and be soldered to it in exactly the same manner as the tin can wheel is soldered to an axle4 ,the wire that the steering gear is soldered to should be long enough to go through the dash-board1 hood and frame1 if the wheel is to turn4 ,a strip of tin is coiled about the wire below the frame as shown in ,fig4 #hb4 ,these are soldered in place to the wire to keep it in position and yet allow it to turn freely in the holes4 ,mud ,guards and ,running ,boards4--,mud guards may be made from a part of the side and bottom of a can as shown in ,fig4 #hc4 ,a #c-;inch can is the best size to use for the truck4 ,the can is cut down to a height of #a inches and then cut into two parts across the bottom so that two mud guards may be made from each can4 ,the outer edges are turned as in making a tray and folded pieces are slipped over the ends as shown in ,fig4 #hc4 ,these mud guards are soldered to the frame in the position shown4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hb4 ,running boards may be made of two pieces of tin1 each piece to be cut #a inches wide and as long as it is desired4 ,the four pieces are each turned down inch at the long sides and two pieces are fitted over each other to make one running board as shown in ,fig4 #hd4 ,two or three supports may be made of galvanized wire for the running boards4 ,these supports extend across the frame of the truck and one end of each support is soldered to each running board4 ,one end of each running board is usually soldered to each mud guard4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hc4 ,lights1 ,horns1 etc4--,headlights may be made of thumb tack boxes1 bottle caps or the tops of tooth powder cans4 ,sidelights may be made from the screw caps of cooking oil cans or the cylindrical part of tooth powder can tops4 ,tail-lights may be made of the screw caps of cooking oil cans4 ,searchlights may be made of the smallest size adhesive tape boxes mounted on suitable standards made of galvanized wire or strips of tin4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hd4 ,the central part of the cover of these boxes is cut away and a piece of isinglass or transparent celluloid may be fitted in to look like a lens4 ,the central part is cut away by using a small chisel to cut with when the cover is placed over the end of a round stick held in the vise4 ,the rough edges are smoothed away by using a smooth half-round file4 ,the construction of these lights is so simple as to need no further explanation and they are simply soldered to the frame or hood where they touch it when placed in position4 ,the searchlight is usually mounted by punching a hole for the standard in the cowl1 or by soldering on an extra piece to the dash to receive the wire standard1 ,fig4 #he4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #he4 ,tool ,boxes1 ,horns1 etc4--,small rectangular beef cube or chewing gum boxes may be soldered to the running board for tool boxes4 ,these boxes have rounded corners and look very much like the large tool boxes1 ,fig4 #he4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hf4 ,horns may be made in several ways1 the simplest form being a piece of tin rolled into a cone shape and soldered to the dash4 ,a more realistic horn may be made by soldering a screw cap to the larger end of the cone and adding the cap of a paint tube to the smaller end4 ,a hand horn may be made as shown in ,fig4 #he4 ,speedometers1 voltmeters and ammeters may be made of screw tops soldered inside the dash as shown4 ,drivers' ,cabs4--,most of the large trucks have some kind of a cab to protect the driver from the weather1 excepting the army trucks1 which usually depend on part of the canvas hood or cover for protection4 ,on the toy trucks these cabs may be very simply made from a square tin cocoa or olive oil can or they may be more elaborately built1 depending on the ability of the maker4 ,these cabs should be carefully made and kept in proportion to the rest of the truck4 ,all sharp edges should be turned over or bound with folded strips of tin4 ,windows may be cut in the cab by placing it on the block and using a small chisel to cut them out4 ,the edges of these windows should all be bound with folded strips of tin as shown in the illustration4 ,the buggy top for the driver's seat may be made from part of a certain well-known curved tobacco box and several short pieces of galvanized wire1 ,fig4 #hf4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,boats ,,the ,,rowboat--,,the ,,sailboat--,,the ,,scow--,,the ,,tugboat--,,the ,,battleship--,,the ,,ferry-,,boat ,the elliptically shaped tin cans1 used for fish of different kinds1 may be made up into boats that will float4 ,a deck is soldered tightly to the can where the lid has been removed and various superstructures added to make the different types of boats1 but to form a rowboat1 seats may be soldered to an open can4 ,the ,rowboat4--,the rowboat is the simplest one to make as no deck is to be soldered on4 ,a narrow elliptical fish can should be used4 ,these cans usually contain fresh mackerel1 and are of real boat shape4 ,such cans are opened at the top inside the rolled rim4 ,the extra tin near the edge of rim should be broken away with the pliers as in making a pail1 all roughness being filed away4 ,lay the can face down on a sheet of paper1 drawing around the outside edge with a sharp pencil to get an outline of the boat4 ,this outline will serve as a guide when cutting out the seats4 ,the seats may be cut to the outline of the boat already traced on paper1 when the two end seats will fit bow and stern4 ,but the center seat will have to be trimmed off a bit to fit the boat4 ,the free edges of the seats must be turned down as a finish4 ,the ,sailboat4--,a catboat or sloop may be made from the same sort of narrow elliptical can or even of a wider can of the same shape4 ,a deck is soldered to this can1 a hole cut in it for a cockpit4 ,to the edge of the cockpit a folded band of tin is soldered4 ,a tube of tin is soldered to the stern1 and a wire tiller is run through this tube and soldered to a rudder4 ,a hole is punched in the center of the forward deck1 and a tube of tin is soldered in this hole to contain the mast4 ,the mast and spars are of wood4 ,the keel is made of a piece of tin soldered to the bottom of the boat4 ,the boat should be completed1 and the mast1 spars and sails in place1 before the keel is put on4 ,try the boat in a basin of water4 ,it will probably tip over unless a very broad can is used to make it4 ,cut out a keel of the shape shown in ,fig4 #hg and solder it lightly in place at each end4 ,place the boat in the water again to see how it floats4 ,if the keel is too heavy1 part of it may be cut off1 if it is too light1 it may be broken away and a heavier one made and soldered on4 ,when properly made these boats are good sailers4 ,when soldering a deck to the boat1 the rough edge remaining after cutting away the lid of the can is left in place so as to form a sort of ledge to solder the deck to4 ,the rough flutings may be flattened out by using a pair of flat-nosed pliers to press down the flutes as you work along and simply pinching it flat4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hg4 ,the ,scow4--,a small scow may be made from a biscuit box of flat tin1 the kind that has contained small sweet biscuits with a cream filling4 ,both box and lid are used and cut down as indicated in ,fig4 #hh4 ,the box is left at the original width4 ,the two ends are cut away from the lid4 ,the two folded-down sides of the lid are used to make folded strips with which to bind the sides of the scow4 ,a tiny box made of part of the lid is soldered to the rear deck of the scow for a cabin4 ,a small piece of galvanized wire bent at an angle is soldered to the cabin for a stovepipe4 ,the towing bits are rivets soldered to the forward deck4 ,the ,tugboat4--,tugboats may be made from the larger elliptical fish cans4 ,a good sized can of this sort is that one commonly found to contain kippered herring4 ,this can will make up into a large tugboat1 but if a small tug is to be made to tow the scow previously described1 a mackerel roe can is the best to use4 ,a deck is soldered tightly to the can1 as in making the sailboat1 except that the deck is left whole2 no openings are cut in it4 ,the cabin is made from a rectangular cocoa can1 or a small olive oil can1 cut down to a suitable height and soldered to the deck1 bottom up4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hh4 ,the pilot house is made from a small adhesive plaster box1 the smokestack being from a small piece of tin with top edge first folded over and then rolled into a cylindrical shape4 ,a piece of wire may be soldered to the stack for an exhaust pipe4 ,a tiny piece of wire is soldered to the front of the stack for a whistle4 ,these pieces of wire may be tied to the stack with fine iron binding wire1 such as florists use4 ,when the wire exhaust and whistle are soldered to the stack the wire may then be removed4 ,it will be found very difficult to solder these short pieces in place without binding them in position4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xv ,courtesy ,pictorial ,review ,boats made by author ,the lifeboat is made from a small folded piece of tin1 both ends being pushed in and soldered together4 ,the finished boat is soldered to the roof of the cabin4 ,the towing bits are rivets soldered to the deck4 ,remember to use the pliers to hold the rivets in place when soldering them on4 ,when these boats are floated in the water they may be found to tip to one side slightly4 ,a bit of solder may be melted on to the bottom of the boat with the copper in such a position that it will counteract any tendency to tip4 ,the ,battleship1 ,destroyers1 etc4--,the battleship shown in ,plate ,,xv is made from a narrow elliptical fish can4 ,a deck is soldered on and a cabin made of a small rectangular box such as beef cubes usually are packed in4 ,the turrets are made of pill or salve boxes of small round tin design4 ,the lid of the box is soldered to the deck and when the box is set in the lid the turret may be turned about4 ,the guns are made of short pieces of wire soldered to the turrets and cabin4 ,the mast is made of a tin oil can spout or a piece of tin rolled into a cone shape4 ,a screw cap of a tooth paste tube is soldered to it for a fighting top4 ,some sort of a keel will have to be soldered to the battleship to keep it upright in the water4 ,three pieces of heavy galvanized wire may be soldered to the bottom1 one in the center and one at each side1 or a strip of sheet lead may be soldered to the bottom4 ,a destroyer may be built up in the same manner as the battleship2 in fact1 almost any type of boat may be built by changing the superstructure4 ,the ,ferry-boat4--,a ferry-boat may be built with paddle wheels that will revolve when the boat is pulled along in the water or anchored in a running stream4 ,the hull is made from a kippered herring can with a deck soldered on4 ,four strips of tin are cut for the sides of the cabins4 ,two of these are soldered to the sides of the hull next to the rolled rim and following the outline of the can or hull4 ,the two inside walls of the cabins are soldered about of an inch inside the outer walls which leaves a gangway through the center of the boat4 ,an upper deck is soldered to these four walls2 the inner walls need only be soldered to the upper deck at each end4 ,the two pilot houses are made of adhesive plaster boxes and the smokestack is rolled up from a piece of tin4 ,a hole is punched or drilled through all four walls of the cabin to receive the axle of the paddle wheels4 ,the paddle wheels are made from small cans exactly in the same way as the auto truck wheels and eight small square pieces of tin are soldered to the circumference of each wheel for paddles4 ,rolled strips of tin are placed on the axles between the wheels and the cabins for washers4 ,the axle should revolve very freely in the axle holes4 ,if one has some mechanical ability it is not very difficult to form a crank in the paddle wheel axle and attach a connecting rod to a small tin walking beam which will move up and down as the paddle wheels revolve4 ,an imitation piston rod may be fastened to the other end of the walking beam and allowed to run free through a hole in the upper deck4 ,the wheels of the ferry-boat will revolve if it is anchored in a running stream or towed behind a rowboat4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,a ,,toy ,,locomotive ,a ,,simple ,,toy ,,locomotive--,,the ,,frame--,,boiler--,,cab--,,wheels--,,cy linders ,,and ,,connecting ,,rods--,,the ,,smokestack1 ,,steam ,,dome ,,and ,,whistle1 ,,sand ,,box ,,and ,,headlight--,,cars--,a ,,passenger ,,car ,,and ,,some ,,others ,the locomotive shown in ,plate ,,xv is made so that the connecting rods move back and forth as the locomotive is pulled along4 ,the principal dimensions are given in ,fig4 #hi4 ,this locomotive is not much more difficult to make than the auto truck1 but it should not be attempted until the auto truck is satisfactorily completed4 ,the ,frame4--,the frame of the locomotive should be made first1 and it is made from a flat piece of tin #e by #aj inches4 ,scribe a line inch inside and along all edges1 cut off the corners as shown in ,fig4 #hi and fold all four edges in4 ,cut into the corners of the frame on lines ,a1 ,a1 ,a1 ,a4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xvi ,simple toy locomotive and sand or water mill made by the author ,the first tin can toy4 ,a locomotive made by the author for his son ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xvii ,courtesy ,new ,york ,world ,steam tractor and gun unpainted ,turn down the two sides of the frame first1 then turn down the two ends4 ,the four pieces of the sides that project beyond the sides are turned in over the ends as shown in ,fig4 #hi4 ,the sides and ends of the frame may be turned over a square maple block4 ,solder the frame at the ends4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hi4 ,the ,boiler4--,the boiler is made of two small soup cans4 ,one whole can is used and the bottom and part of the sides of another can of exactly the same size is soldered to the first can to make a long boiler4 ,one long can1 if obtainable1 may be used for the boiler4 ,when two or more cans are soldered together to make a long boiler the two rolled rims of the cans soldered together give the appearance of a boiler strap as shown in ,fig4 #hi4 ,the ,cab4--,the cab is made of a rectangular cocoa can4 ,most of one side is cut away leaving just enough to fold back against the sides of the cab4 ,the cab is then placed on a wooden block and a chisel is used to cut the window openings4 ,a large round punch may be used to cut out the front windows or a very small chisel made of a nail may be used to cut these circular windows4 ,a top is made for the cab from a piece of tin #c by #c inches square4 ,one-quarter inch is marked off and turned in all around this piece4 ,two opposite sides are folded down and the two other sides are left standing at right angles to the piece and these two opposite sides are left open just enough to slide over the top of box forming the cab where the top is soldered in place as shown in the drawing4 ,the boiler should be soldered to the cab and then these two are soldered to the frame where they touch it at the front end of the boiler and the base of the cab4 ,the ,wheels4--,the front wheels of the locomotive are made of the small sized evaporated milk cans exactly in the same way that the wheels of the auto truck are made4 ,these wheels are #b inches in diameter and inch wide4 ,the wire axle of the front wheels passes through two lugs that are soldered to the sides of the frame4 ,the driving wheels are made from #c-;inch rolled-rim cans4 ,the axle for these wheels passes directly through holes in the sides of the frame4 ,a piece of galvanized wire #a inches in length is used for driving pins for the connecting rods on each driving wheel4 ,each piece of wire is placed through two holes in the driving wheel1 these holes being directly opposite each other and exactly inch from the center of each wheel4 ,as these driving pins pass entirely through the wheel they should be soldered to each side of it in order to give added strength1 as they would break away from the wheels very easily if they did not pass entirely through the wheel and were not supported by each side of it4 ,cylinders and ,connecting ,rods4--,these cylinders are rolled up from flat pieces of tin each #b by #c inches4 ,the tin is folded over on the two shortest sides of each piece before it is formed into a cylindrical shape1 the folded sides of the tin forming each end of the cylinders4 ,the connecting rods are made of two strips of tin1 each by #f inches4 ,both sides of the strip are folded in1 making a triple thickness of tin and a connecting rod about inch wide and #f inches long4 ,a disk of tin is soldered to one end of each connecting rod4 ,these disks should be somewhat smaller than the diameter of the cylinders so that they may slide easily back and forth inside the cylinders4 ,the connecting rods have to be bent at the two angles shown in ,fig4 #hi so that each rod may be in line with the cylinder and with the driving wheel4 ,the ,smokestack1 ,steam ,dome and ,whistle1 ,sand ,box and ,headlight4--,the smokestack is rolled up from a piece of tin #b by #b inches4 ,this piece of tin is cut from the side of a can so as to leave the rolled rim at the top for the rim of the stack4 ,the steam dome is made of the top part of a tooth powder can with the distributer top left on4 ,this top is left open to form a whistle4 ,that part of the tooth powder can which rests against the boiler must be fitted very carefully so as to conform to the curve of the boiler4 ,the sand box may be made from a bottle cap and the headlight may be made from another bottle cap as shown in the drawing4 ,cars4--,a coal tender for the locomotive may be made from a small square box mounted on a frame or platform similar to the locomotive1 only smaller4 ,the car wheels may be made from the small evaporated milk cans or from any small cans obtainable4 ,a freight car may be made from a long square box in a manner similar to the coal tender4 ,passenger cars may be made from long rectangular cans and the windows and doors may be cut or painted on the sides or ends4 ,be sure to place folded strips of tin over any raw edges left when cutting out windows and doors4 ,a ,passenger ,car and ,some ,others4--,a passenger car may be made from an olive or cooking oil can2 that is1 about half of one of the larger cans cut lengthwise4 ,select a can so that when it is cut lengthwise to dimension it will be in proportion to the locomotive which is to be used with it4 ,no dimensions are given in the drawings as these cans vary in size1 but it is not difficult to find a suitable rectangular can for a passenger car4 ,when the can is cut open1 draw two parallel lines along the sides for window openings4 ,do not try to cut each window separately1 but cut one long opening for all the windows1 bind the cut edges with folded strips and then solder folded pieces across the window openings at intervals for divisions between the windows4 ,cut a door in each end of the car and bind the edges with folded tin4 ,the projecting hoods over the door at each end of the car roof may be made of part of the sides and bottom of a square can or from that part of the olive or cooking oil can that is cut away in making the body of the car4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ij4 ,a flat piece of tin may be used for the bottom of the car1 this piece being formed in exactly the same way that the frame of the auto truck is formed4 ,it is made long enough to allow for a platform at each end of the car1 and the car body is soldered securely to it4 ,car wheels may be made from very small cans as any other tin can wheels are made4 ,two bottle caps may be soldered together for a wheel or several flat disks of tin may be cut and soldered together at the edges to form a wheel4 ,the tin washers used with roofing nails make an excellent wheel when two are soldered together1 back to back4 ,never try to use a single can lid1 bottle cap or tin disk for a wheel that is to bear any weight4 ,any of these are too weak to stand up alone4 ,the wheels are mounted in the manner shown in the drawings of the passenger car4 ,other cars may be made from cans as shown in ,fig4 #ij1 the construction being so simple as to need no further description4 ,these cars may be made as simple or as elaborate as the skill of the maker permits4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,simple ,,mechanical ,,toys ,,water ,,wheels ,,and ,,sandmills--,a ,,simple ,,steam ,,turbine ,,and ,,boiler--,a ,,windmill ,,and ,,tower--,,aeroplane ,,weathervane ,water wheels and sandmills may be made from bottle caps and can lids4 ,two push-in or friction-top can lids are soldered together to form a flanged wheel and bottle caps are soldered between the flanges1 at equal intervals1 for the buckets4 ,the general construction is shown in ,fig4 #ia4 ,a nozzle may be formed from a piece of tin and soldered to the standard so that a hose may be connected with it and to faucet1 or1 the water wheel may be set in a sink under a faucet or placed in a stream of running water4 ,a funnel or sand hopper may be made of tin and soldered to a standard which holds the bucket wheel4 ,fine dry sand placed in the hopper will run through the hole in the bottom and cause the bucket wheel to revolve4 ,a ,simple ,steam ,turbine and ,boiler4--,a very simple and amusing steam turbine that runs with steam generated in a tin-can boiler may be made from tin cans4 ,select a well-soldered can with a tight-fitting lid1 such as a molasses or syrup can with a friction-top lid4 ,the lid will have to be soldered in place to make it steam tight4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ia4 ,punch a hole about inch in diameter near one side of the lid for a filler hole4 ,see that this hole is perfectly round so that a cork may be fitted in to make it steam tight4 ,the vane wheel should be about #c inches in diameter and very carefully made4 ,see that the axle is soldered exactly in the center of the wheel4 ,the vanes should be small and numerous and each one exactly the same size4 ,the method of construction is shown on page #ahc 7full page drawing74 ,a #c-;inch circle is carefully laid out on a flat piece of tin and then another circle is laid off inside the first one about inch in4 ,the outer circle is then divided up into #cf equal parts4 ,draw straight lines from each dividing dot at the edge to the center of the wheel4 ,bore a small hole exactly where each line crosses the inner circle4 ,cut down each dividing line to each hole4 ,use the pliers to turn each vane at right angles to the face of the wheel4 ,the steam nozzle should be very small4 ,a triangular piece of tin may be formed around a fine wire nail or pin4 ,the opening in the nozzle should be about inch in diameter4 ,the nozzle should be well soldered together and then soldered to the boiler1 over a hole of a suitable size to allow the steam to flow from the boiler into the nozzle4 ,be sure not to solder up the tube so that the steam may not escape4 ,a piece of broom straw may be placed in the nozzle when soldering it together1 and it may be left in when the nozzle is soldered to the boiler4 ,the straw should extend into the boiler and may be withdrawn when the soldering operations are completed4 ,do not use wire inside the nozzle to prevent it filling with solder as the solder will stick to it and prevent its being withdrawn4 ,use care in placing the nozzle in position under the vane wheel so that the steam will strike the vanes squarely when it escapes4 ,set the end of the nozzle as close to the vanes as possible1 but so that it does not strike the vanes when the wheel revolves4 ,these turbines run at very high speed when carefully made4 ,do not use too much heat under the boiler1 as too great pressure may explode it with disastrous results4 ,if the boiler is set over a gas flame1 take care not to allow the flame to flare out around the boiler and creep up the sides1 as it may then melt off the top of the boiler even when there is considerable water in it4 ,a moderate flame will cause enough pressure to be generated in the boiler to make the vane wheel revolve rapidly4 ,if care is used in fitting the cork in the filler hole1 it may be made steam tight by pushing it into the filler hole with a light pressure so that if too much pressure is generated in the boiler the cork will blow out4 ,a pinion from a small clock works may be soldered to the vane wheel shaft and meshed in with a large gear which is set on a shaft soldered to the supporting upright at one side of the wheel4 ,a small pulley may be made of wood or metal and fastened to the large gear4 ,this arrangement of gears will give a reduced speed and a string belt may be run from the pulley to some light running toy machine4 ,the pinion and gear fastened to the turbine should run very easily4 ,an alcohol heating lamp may be made for the turbine boiler by soldering a wick tube and a vent tube to a shoe paste or salve box4 ,the wick tube should be made from a strip of tin rolled up into a cylindrical shape4 ,it should be about inch in diameter and #a inches in length when soldered together4 ,the wick tube should extend about #a inch above the top of the lamp and it should be soldered firmly in a hole cut in the top of the lamp to receive it4 ,a small tube about inch in diameter and #c inches long is soldered together4 ,this tube should be soldered over a hole near the side of the lamp at the top and soldered on at an angle as shown in ,fig4 #ia4 ,it serves as a vent1 allowing the alcohol gas generated within the top of the lamp to escape and it also serves as a handle4 ,an alcohol lamp fitted with a vent tube of this description will not boil over and catch fire as so many of the small alcohol lamps provided with toy steam engines are sure to do4 ,vent tubes soldered to these lamps in such a manner as to conduct the gas away from the flame will provide against accidents of this sort4 ,a filler hole should be placed in the top of the lamp as far away from the wick tube as possible4 ,a common cork may be used as a stopper4 ,a small funnel may be easily made from some pieces of scrap tin and used for filling the boiler and the lamp4 ,a ,windmill and ,tower4--,a windmill and tower that will look very realistic when completed may be made from tin cans4 ,the vane wheel is composed of twelve blades set in two can lids4 ,the vanes are cut from a flat piece of tin1 care being taken to make each one exactly the same size4 ,a large can lid is used for the outer vane support and the central part of this lid is cut away4 ,twelve cuts are made around the edge of the can lid at equal distances and the vanes soldered in these cuts4 ,a small can lid is used for the center of the wheel and the ends of the vanes soldered to it4 ,the tower is made of strips of folded tin and the tank from a tin can is shown in ,fig4 #ib4 ,aeroplane ,weathervane4--,a biplane weathervane may be made from flat strips of tin4 ,large round or square cans may be opened out and the tin taken from them used to make the aeroplane weathervane4 ,when this weathervane is mounted on a suitable spike on which it may turn about freely in the wind1 the propeller will revolve rapidly when the wind blows4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ib4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xviii ,aeroplane weather vanes made by the author ,the construction of the aeroplane is quite simple and the principal dimensions are given in ,fig4 #ic4 ,the construction is very well shown in ,plate ,,xviii4 ,if the foregoing problems have been satisfactorily worked out there will be no difficulty in constructing the aeroplane from the dimensions given4 ,the two wings are made from two pieces of tin of the required size with the edges folded over4 ,the body of fuselage is made of a long triangular piece of tin folded up on each side so as to form a sort of long tapering box4 ,a cover is made for this box and divided into two parts so as to leave a cockpit opening4 ,the struts or wing supports are made from narrow strips of tin that are folded almost together for strength4 ,the small guy wires had best be made from copper wire of small diameter4 ,if it is difficult to get small copper wire1 it may be possible to get two or three feet of insulated copper wire used for electrical purposes4 ,such wire is employed to wind small magnets used on electric bells4 ,the insulation easily burns off4 ,copper wire solders very easily4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ic4 ,the rudder and tail planes are made from flat pieces of tin4 ,a straight piece of wire is used for the propeller shaft4 ,a tube is made of tin and used as a bearing for the shaft4 ,the propeller shaft should fit very loosely in the tube4 ,the bearing tube is soldered firmly to the body of the aeroplane as shown in ,fig4 #ic4 ,when completely assembled1 except for the propeller and its shaft1 the propeller is soldered to one end of the shaft4 ,care should be taken to mount the propeller blade in such a way that the shaft is exactly in the center1 so that one side of the propeller is not heavier than the other4 ,the shaft is pushed through the bearing tube and should project about inch beyond it4 ,a strip of tin is wound around this projecting end of the shaft and soldered to it in such a manner that the shaft is free to turn in the tube4 ,when the plane is completely assembled try it to find the point at which it balances when rested on the finger under the fuselage4 ,a hole should be punched at this point large enough to admit the iron rod or piece of heavy wire that is to be used for the spike on which to mount the weathervane4 ,a second hole is punched directly above the first one2 this hole is considerably smaller than the hole beneath it4 ,the top of the iron spike that supports the aeroplane weathervane is filed down to a smaller diameter so that when the spike is pushed through the larger hole the smaller or filed part of the spike will go through the hole in the upper part of the fuselage4 ,the weathervane will then rest on the shoulder formed on the spike as shown in the illustration4 ,a block of wood may be nailed to the roof peak of the house or barn and a hole bored into it the size of the supporting spike1 and the spike may be pushed into this and the aeroplane weathervane mounted on the spike4 ,it should be well painted in bright colors and if well made will prove a very pleasing toy4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,candlesticks ,,wall ,,sconces1 ,,and ,a ,,lantern ,the base of the tall candlestick shown in ,fig4 #id is made of various sized cans cut down to tray-like forms and soldered together4 ,as may be seen by studying them1 the shafts are made from ordinary tin campaign horns4 ,the drip cups are made of press-in can lids or from small cans cut down to tray-like shapes4 ,all sharp edges are to be turned over4 ,the candle sockets are formed in the same way as that of the candlestick described in ,chapter ,,viii1 page #id4 ,the wall sconces are made of large olive or cooking oil cans or the cans that have contained automobile lubricating oils4 ,all edges should be turned or bound with folded strips of tin4 ,sconce ,no4 #b may be made of a flat sheet of tin and half of a large round can cut down to tray size4 ,sconce ,no4 #c may be made of a large round can cut down to shape4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xix ,a lantern made by the author ,a fighting tank made by the author4 ,the tank is made of two mackerel tins4 ,parts of pepper boxes1 bottle caps and a few nails used as guns ,the lantern is not made from a rectangular can1 but it is made from two square pieces of tin used for the top and bottom1 part of a can being fitted in a hole cut in the square piece used for the top of the lantern4 ,the four corner pieces of the lantern are made of strips of tin cut at a right angle4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #id4 ,a sliding door is made from a flat sheet of tin1 this door sliding between two folded strips of tin which are soldered to the framework of the lantern4 ,three pieces of glass are used for the lantern1 as these are held in place by small pieces of tin folded at an angle1 one part of which rests against the glass and the other part is soldered to the tin work of the lantern4 ,these pieces are put in place as each piece of glass is placed in the lantern1 one at the top and the other at the bottom of each piece of glass4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,camp ,,and ,,kitchen ,,equipment ,a ,,coffee ,,pot--,,boiling ,,pails--,,frying ,,pan--,,toaster--,a ,,camp ,,shower ,,bath--,,canteen ,,or ,,hot ,,water ,,bottle--,a ,,match ,,box ,an excellent coffee pot may be made from a gallon can or from a smaller one4 ,this tin must be of the rolled rim or locked seam type so that it will not melt apart or leak if it should accidently boil dry4 ,lugs are riveted to the side of the can as described in making a pail in ,chapter ,,ix1 page #ajj4 ,a series of small holes are punched in a triangular formation in such a manner that they will be immediately back of the spout when this is soldered in place4 ,the spout is made of a separate piece of tin of a triangular shape4 ,this piece of tin is formed into shape and is then riveted to the coffee pot over the strainer holes4 ,after it is held in place by the rivets it is tightly soldered so that it will not leak4 ,the rivets are to prevent the spout from melting off4 ,a lid for the coffee pot may be made from the bottom of another can of the same size4 ,some cans are provided with a cover and these make excellent coffee pots4 ,boiling or ,cooking ,pails4--,the boiling or cooking pails are made in the same manner as the pails described in ,chapter ,,ix1 page #ajj4 ,care should be taken to use only rolled rim or locked seam pails for any utensil that is to go over a fire4 ,frying ,pan4--,the frying pan is made by cutting down a large round or square can of the rolled or locked seam type4 ,the edges are turned and a suitable handle is riveted on as shown4 ,be sure to rivet all joints that are to be subjected to the heat from a fire4 ,toaster4--,a toaster or broiler may be made from folded strips of tin which are strongly riveted together as shown in ,fig4 #ie4 ,be sure to put two rivets in each corner of the toaster4 ,the ,canteen or ,hot ,water ,bottle4--,the canteen or hot water bottle may be made of two cake or pie tins soldered together or from large round gallon cans cut to size and made up like a large tin can wheel4 ,a water-tight screw cap may be fitted to the canteen by removing the screw top and cap from a maple syrup or automobile oil can and soldering the screw over a suitable hole in the canteen4 ,most of these screw caps may be melted off the original can by simply heating them1 the cap itself being removed during this operation4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xx ,a toy tin can kitchen made by author4 ,the body of the range is made of a biscuit box4 ,the draught door is made of the top of a pepper box1 with sifter top4 ,the ash door is made of the bottom of a pepper box4 ,the oven door is made of the hinged tin lid of a little cigar box4 ,the stove lids are made of can lids4 ,the door handles are rivets4 ,the range boiler is made of a long can2 pipes are made of wire4 ,the tea kettle is made of a shoe paste box4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xxi ,a doll's bathroom made by the author4 ,the bath tub is made of a corn can1 cut in half lengthwise4 ,part of another can of the same size is fitted with the open end of the first can4 ,the edges are turned over4 ,the washstand is made of the top and bottom of a spice box2 the bowl is made of a varnish can cap4 ,the column is made of a pill box4 ,the mirror is made of a can lid4 ,a tin can laundry made by the author4 ,the laundry tubs are made of a cigarette box4 ,rivets are used as faucets4 ,the sink is made of a pocket tobacco box4 ,cup hooks are used as faucets4 ,the clock is made of a small tin box and can lids4 ,a ,camp ,shower ,bath4--,a camp shower bath may be made of a very large can1 a shoe paste box1 a short length of rubber hose and two small flat pieces of tin4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ie4 ,a #e-;gallon can that has contained automobile oil is easily found and a hot lye bath will remove all traces of the oil4 ,the lye solution is placed in the can and raised to the boiling point4 ,it is then poured out and the can is rinsed with hot water4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #if4 ,the top of the can is removed and a strong handle fixed to the can4 ,a small nipple of tin is soldered to the side of the can1 near the bottom4 ,this nipple is simply a flat piece of tin rolled into a cylindrical shape and of a suitable size so that a piece of rubber hose may be fitted tightly over it4 ,a second nipple of the same size should be made for the spray nozzle4 ,the spray nozzle is made from a shoe paste or salve box4 ,a number of fine holes are punched in the box lid and the tin pipe or nipple is soldered in a hole made for it in the bottom of the box4 ,a wire hook is provided at the rim of the pail to hold the spray nozzle in place when it is not desired to have the water run out of it4 ,it will be found convenient to have a double pulley and rope rigged to hoist the pail to a convenient height after filling4 ,the ,match ,box4--,the match box is made of two cigarette boxes1 one for good matches and the other for burned matches4 ,these boxes are of ample size to hold the paper drawer of a large box of parlor matches4 ,the hinged top is left on the box that is to hold the unburned matches4 ,this box is soldered to two supporting brackets in such a manner that it is held away from the piece of tin forming the back for the two boxes and so that the lid of the upper box may be raised4 ,the lower box is simply soldered to the back piece4 ,three folded strips of tin are soldered to the front of this second box to form a holder for a strip of sand paper to strike the matches on4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,preparing ,,the ,,toys ,,for ,,painting ,,removing ,,surplus ,,solder ,,with ,,scrapers--,,making ,a ,,hoe ,,scraper--,,plumbers' ,,and ,,roofers' ,,scrapers--,,scraping ,,and ,,filing--,,boiling ,,the ,,toys ,,in ,a ,,lye ,,bath--,,vent ,,holes ,it frequently happens that more solder is applied to the joints than is needed to cement the work together or that the solder is left in a rather rough or lumpy state due to the inexperience of the worker4 ,the beginner should be in no wise discouraged if this is so1 for there is a certain knack in soldering neatly and this is only acquired by experience and by closely observing the simple rules governing the operation4 ,the beginner should be sure that enough solder is applied to hold the work firmly together4 ,the surplus solder may be scraped away by using a simple scraper shaped like a hoe4 ,an old knife is also useful for cutting away lumps of solder4 ,an old file or rasp which has very coarse teeth may be used to file away solder4 ,a finely cut file should never be used to file solder as the fine teeth will clog up with solder and the file be rendered useless for any further work4 ,making a ,hoe ,scraper4--,a hoe scraper may be made from a cheap screw driver1 such as those obtainable from the #e-;and-#aj cent stores4 ,the end of the screw driver that is applied to the screw is heated red hot 7a dull red74 ,it is then placed quickly between the jaws of a vise so that the jaws grasp it about inch from the end and before the steel has time to cool1 it is bent over like a hoe1 see ,fig4 #ig4 ,use a flat fine-toothed file to file the cutting edges to about the angle shown in the enlarged drawing of the working end of the hoe scraper4 ,when the tool is filed into shape1 heat the end again to a dull red and plunge it quickly in a pail of water several times until it is entirely cold4 ,the tool is then ready for use4 ,the hoe scraper is a very simple tool to use4 ,the cutting edge is simply dragged with slight pressure over the solder to be removed1 and will remove a little solder each time it is dragged over it4 ,this tool may be sharpened easily with a smooth file or on a grindstone when it becomes dull4 ,do not try to remove too much solder at once and do not take away too much solder from the joint as you will weaken it4 ,simply smooth up the solder so that it will look well when painted over4 ,plumbers' and ,roofers' ,scrapers4--,two very handy scrapers may be purchased from a dealer in tinners' tools4 ,one of them is called a ,plumbers' ,scraper and is shown in ,fig4 #ig4 ,the other is called a ,roofing ,scraper and is shown in ,fig4 #ig4 ,either of these tools will prove very useful for removing solder4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ig4 ,boiling the ,toys in a ,lye ,bath4--,when the toys are completely assembled and before they are painted they should be thoroughly boiled up in a lye bath to remove all grease1 soldering paste or acid1 paper or painted labels1 etc4 ,the lye bath is made by adding two heaping tablespoonfuls of lye or washing soda to the gallon of boiling water4 ,lye or washing soda may be purchased at any grocery store4 ,the lye solution should be mixed up in an old wash boiler or a large can or pail1 placed over a hot fire and kept boiling gently during such time as the toys are immersed in the lye bath4 ,enough lye solution should be made up so that at least half of the article to be cleaned will be covered with it4 ,the toy is left in the bath until that part of it which is covered with the solution is clean4 ,it is then removed from the bath1 rinsed1 and then that part of the toy that remains to be cleaned is placed in the solution4 ,the whole toy should be thoroughly rinsed with warm water when it is finally removed from the lye bath4 ,make sure that it is thoroughly dry and also that any water or lye solution that may have gotten inside any partially sealed-up parts of the toy is removed before attempting to paint it4 ,take care not to place the hands in the lye solution1 hot or cold1 as it is very injurious to the skin4 ,any lye solution accidently spilled on cloth will eat holes in it unless washed out with plenty of water immediately4 ,the work should be handled with wire hooks when lifting it out of the lye bath4 ,a fresh lye bath should be made up occasionally as it loses its cleansing power in proportion to the work boiled up in it4 ,lye may be added to a bath already made up if this bath has not accumulated too much dirt4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ih4 ,vent ,holes4--,if a can is used to represent a boiler or is made up into a drum-like structure1 such as a wheel1 and is not soldered up air tight1 it is apt to fill up with the hot lye solution when placed in it4 ,unless there are two air holes or vents provided in such a boiler or wheel1 the lye or water will not all run out when it is removed from the bath1 but it will ooze out from time to time perhaps after the toy has been painted for some time4 ,the lye thus liberated will ruin all paint with which it comes in contact4 ,at least two vent holes should be punched or bored in all drum-like structures employed about the toys1 one hole at the top to admit air and another hole at the bottom to allow the water or lye solution to escape4 ,these vent holes are particularly necessary in wheels that are made from cans1 see ,fig4 #ih4 ,,chapter ,,xxii ,,notes ,,on ,,painting ,,the ,,toys ,the tin toys should be painted with a good grade of enamel paint4 ,enamel paints have varnish mixed with them and dry hard and glossy and form a very durable and attractive finish for the toys4 ,there are several popular brands of these enamel paints on the market and almost any of them will give good results if properly applied4 ,several colors should be purchased to start with1 black1 white1 cherry red1 chrome yellow1 prussian or royal blue4 ,with this assortment of colors1 it is possible to get a variety of shades by mixing4 ,a can of vermilion and a can of khaki-colored enamel paint1 as well as small cans of gold and silver and bronze paint1 will prove very handy additions to the above collection of colors4 ,the vermilion1 gold and silver paints are used to paint certain details of the toys that need to be emphasized4 ,be sure to keep all the cans of paint tightly covered when not in use1 so that the paint will not dry up and become thick and gummy from contact with the air4 ,several paint brushes should be purchased at the paint dealers1 the largest brush should be of soft hair about inch wide1 and the smallest brush a tiny pointed one for detail and line work4 ,always keep these brushes covered with turpentine after using them or wash them out immediately after by scrubbing them on a cake of soap with plenty of warm water4 ,cut several small cans down to tray size and use them for mixing the paint4 ,always stir up a can of paint before using it4 ,use a small stick for stirring and keep at it until the paint is thoroughly mixed4 ,enamel paints may be thinned with turpentine and a bottle of this should be kept on hand4 ,do not use your paint too thick4 ,it should be of such a consistency as to drip slowly from the brush before the brush is wiped against the side of the can to remove the surplus paint upon commencing the work4 ,be sure to mix up enough paint to cover the entire surface to be painted if using mixed colors1 as it is very difficult to mix a second batch of the same shade of color4 ,think how you are going to apply your paint before starting4 ,try to plan your painting so that you will not have to work over a painted surface a second time until that surface is thoroughly dry4 ,the paint should be applied smoothly with a brush4 ,just enough paint should be held in the brush so that it flows onto the tin without streaks of the tin showing through the paint4 ,generally speaking1 you should start at the top of a piece of work and paint down4 ,each fresh brush stroke should overlap the one above it and mop up any surplus paint of the former brush strokes4 ,paint the intricate parts first and then the plain surfaces4 ,for instance1 when painting the aeroplane weathervane1 use a small brush and paint the struts first1 then paint around the bases and tops of the struts on the surface of the planes4 ,change the small brush for a larger one and flow more paint over the surface of the planes1 gathering up the paint around the ends of the struts as you paint along4 ,when painting a large model1 such as an army truck1 and not being quite sure of the quantity of paint needed1 mix up enough paint to paint all the parts of the model that show the most and leave such parts as the bottom of the frame and the inside of the body until last4 ,if you have to mix up more paint for these last parts it will not matter if it is not exactly the same shade4 ,if you have not had very much experience in mixing and combining colors1 it is generally better to use the different tints just as they come from the cans1 without trying to mix them4 ,do not use too many colors on one toy1 but try to get a pleasing effect with two or three colors that look well together4 ,for instance1 a truck may be painted an olive green or khaki color over its entire surface1 excepting the front of the radiator which should be painted with silver paint4 ,when the first coat of paint is thoroughly dry1 lines of black may be painted about the body and various edges emphasized with black4 ,the hubs of the wheels1 the lamps1 the rim of the steering wheel1 and the filler cap on the radiator may all be painted black with good effect4 ,the part of the wheels which is supposed to represent the tires should be painted a dark gray4 7,gray may be made by mixing black and white together47 ,study the large trucks seen about the streets for inspiration4 ,these large trucks are nearly always very simply and attractively painted4 ,real locomotives are painted black at present1 but a small toy locomotive looks much better if the wheels are painted red 7vermilion74 ,a red band may be painted about the top of the smokestack and the tin strips framing the cab windows should be painted red1 as may the number of the engine1 etc4 ,the whistle should be painted with gold paint and also the inside of the headlight1 and broad lines may be painted about the boiler with gold to represent the straps seen about locomotive boilers4 ,paint the tires of the engine wheels with silver paint4 ,the driving rods may be painted either black or silver4 ,a toy locomotive thus painted will prove far more attractive to a child than if it is painted a plain black like a real locomotive4 ,generally speaking1 the toys should be painted one dominating color of an attractive tint and relieved or brightened with lines and certain details painted with a bright or contrasting color4 ,always allow one coat of paint to dry thoroughly before painting on it again4 ,tin toys may be baked in an oven when they are freshly painted4 ,the baking dries the enamel paint very quickly and tends to make the paint dry very hard and smooth4 ,the baking oven of a coal or gas range will do very well for the baking1 but be very sure that the oven is not too hot1 as a hot oven will cause the solder to melt and the toys to fall apart4 ,it is better to leave the oven door opened slightly when baking the painted toys over a slow fire4 ,it is not necessary to bake the toys after painting as they may be simply left to dry in the air4 ,always paint slowly and carefully4 ,toys that are attractively painted to match good construction are much more satisfactory than a well-made toy poorly painted4 ,,index ,a ,aeroplane weathervane1 #ahg-aia ,ambulance body1 #aed1 #aee ,anvils1 #dj1 #da ,appliances1 shop1 #ci-dc ,ash trays1 #hf-ic ,assembling auto truck1 #aci-ade ,auto truck1 making1 #ajg-ade army1 #aec-aee axles1 #aad bodies1 #adf-aef cabs1 #afe chassis1 #aah-abf coal truck1 #aeb1 #aec dash board1 #ace-ach drilling holes in wheel centers1 #aac1 #aad fire engine1 #aee1 #aef fittings1 #afa-afe hood1 #abg-acd horns1 #afc lights1 #afa-afc mud guards1 #afj radiator1 #abe-acd soldering filler cap on radiator1 #acb-acd soldering seat1 #ach soldering wheels to axles1 #ada-adc starting crank1 #aeg1 #aeh steering wheel1 #aei street sprinkler1 #aea-aec tank truck1 #aea tool boxes1 #afc1 #afd vents or louvers in hood1 #acj-acb washers for axles1 #adc-ade ,auto truck wheel centers1 finding1 #cg1 #ch wheel making1 #ajg-aah wheel1 making hole in center1 #aab-aad ,b ,bench1 work1 #da1 #db ,bending strips of tin to design1 #ha-hc wire in vise1 #aeg ,biscuit cutter1 #dd-ec ,block1 punching and forming1 #ej ,bodies1 ambulance1 #aed1 #aee auto truck1 #adf-aef coal1 #aeb different bodies fitted to same chassis1 #adi-aef fire engine1 #aee1 #aef street sprinkler1 #aea1 #aeb tank1 #aea ,boats1 #aff-age battleship1 #aga1 #agb ferry1 #agb1 #agc row1 #aff1 #afg sail1 #afg1 #afh scow1 #afg tug1 #afi-aga ,burns1 remedy for1 #bf ,c ,cabs1 truck1 #afe ,cabs1 locomotive1 #agf1 #agg ,camp equipment1 #aie-aii canteen1 #aif coffee pot1 #aie cooking pails1 #aif frying pan1 #aif hot water bottle1 #aif ,camp equipment1 match box1 #aii shower bath1 #aif-aii toaster1 #aif ,candlesticks1 #id-ii1 #aib1 #aic ,cars1 railroad1 #agh-aha ,charcoal and wood fires for heating soldering coppers1 #ei1 #fj ,chassis1 forming truck1 #aah-abf ,cleaning and scraping tin for soldering1 #ga-gc cans1 #ba-be ,connecting rods for locomotive1 #agg1 #agh ,cooky cutters1 #gi-he ,cuts1 remedy for1 #bf ,cutting away surplus tin at can rims1 #aja1 #ajb holes in tin with chisel1 #if1 #ig into cans1 #bb-bd narrow strips of tin1 #hj1 #ha ,cylinders1 locomotive1 #agg1 #agh ,d ,dash boards1 truck1 #ace-ach ,dividers1 spring1 #cc ,double cutting shears1 #bd ,drilling hole in wheel centers1 #aac1 #aad ,e ,electrical soldering coppers1 #fj1 #fg1 #fh ,f ,filing tin1 #de1 #df the soldering copper1 #fc-fe ,fire engine1 #aee1 #aef ,fittings for truck1 #afa-afe ,flux1 applying1 #gd ,fluxes for soldering1 #ee1 #fb-gj ,folding tin by hand1 #ej1 #ea hatchet stake1 #abc-abe vise1 #abc wooden roofing folder1 #abj-abc ,forming chassis for truck1 #aah-abf mallet1 #db1 #dc using1 #hg-ia ,forming a wire handle1 #aje1 #ajf ,frying pan1 #aif ,g ,galvanized wire1 sizes1 #cj used for axles1 #aad ,gas furnace for heating soldering coppers1 #eh1 #ei ,gasoline torch for heating soldering coppers1 #eh1 #ei ,h ,handle1 forming for biscuit cutter1 #di-ec ,hatchet stake used for folding1 #abc-abe ,heating apparatus for soldering coppers1 #ee-fj soldering coppers1 #fe-fh ,hood1 truck1 #abg-acd ,horns1 truck1 #afc ,hot water bottle1 #aif ,i ,ice pick used as punch1 #aab1 #aac ,k 8,killed0 or soldering acid1 making1 #fh-gj ,l ,laying out work1 #cb-ci ,lantern1 #aib1 #aic ,lights1 truck1 #afa1 #afb ,locomotive1 #agd-agi boiler1 #agf cab1 #agf connecting rods1 #agg1 #agh cylinders1 #agg1 #agh fittings1 #agh frame1 #agd-agg ,locomotive wheels1 #agg ,lugs for pail handle1 #ajb-aje ,lye bath1 description1 #bj used for cleaning cans1 #gb1 #gc ,m ,marking awl1 #cb off work1 #cb1 #cc line around a can1 #bb ,match box1 #aii holder and ash tray1 #ia-ic ,materials needed aside from cans1 #cj ,mechanical toys1 #ahb-aia aeroplane weathervane1 #ahg-aia sandmills1 #ahb steam turbine and boiler1 #ahb1 #ahc water wheels1 #ahb windmill1 #ahg ,melting off can lids1 #aaj1 #aaa ,metal shears1 #be ,mud guards for truck1 #afj ,n ,notes on painting the toys1 #bjf-baj ,o ,oil stove used for heating soldering coppers1 #ef-fa ,p ,painting tin can toys1 #bjf-baj ,paints used for tin can toys1 #bjf ,points to remember about soldering1 #ge-gg ,preparing cans for toy making1 #bj-bb toys for painting1 #bjj-bje ,punches1 #dg-di ,punching a hole in tin1 #df-di ,punching holes with ice pick1 #aab1 #aac holes in radiator1 #abi ,r ,radiator1 truck1 #abg-acd ,riveting1 #ajj1 #ajc-aje ,rivets1 #cj ,running boards1 truck1 #afj1 #afa ,s ,sandmills1 #ahb ,sconces1 wall1 #aib ,scrapers1 #bja1 #bjb home-made1 #bja plumbers' and roofers'1 #bja1 #bjb ,scraping away surplus solder1 #bjj-bjb ,seat1 truck1 #ach ,sheet tin1 #ed ,shower bath1 #aif-aii ,smokestack for locomotive1 #agh ,soft solder1 #ed other methods of applying1 #gh ,soldering1 #ed-gj candlestick1 #ii cleaning and scraping for1 #ga-gc cooky cutter1 #hc-he filler cap on radiator1 #acb-acd heating apparatus for1 #ee-fj hood and radiator to truck chassis1 #aci 8,killed ,acid10 making1 #fh-gj narrow strips of tin1 #ha-hc paste1 #fb1 #fc other methods of applying1 #gh points to remember about1 #ge-gg practice piece1 #gc-gh process1 #ee ,soldering1 scraping away surplus solder1 #bjj-bjb soft solder1 #ed strips of tin to flat piece #hc wheels to axles1 #ada-adc copper or 8iron10 #fj-fb cleaning with 8killed acid10 #fc-fg electrical1 #fj1 #fg1 #fh filing1 #fc-fe fitting handle to1 #fb heating1 #fe-fh tinning1 #fc-fh ,springs1 truck1 #adj1 #ada ,squaring up a piece of tin1 #cd1 #ce ,starting crank1 #aeg1 #aeh ,steam turbine1 #ahb1 #ahc ,steering wheel and column1 #aei ,street sprinkler1 #aea-aec ,strip washers for axles1 #adc-ade ,strips of tin1 cutting1 #cf1 #cg1 #hj1 #ha ,supplementary tool list1 #ca1 #cb ,sugar scoop1 #ec ,surface gauge1 using1 #ch1 #ci ,t ,tank truck1 #aea ,tin cans used for toys1 #ai1 #bj sheet1 #ed strips1 cutting1 #cf1 #cg1 #hj1 #ha ,tinning soldering copper1 #fa-fh ,toaster1 #aif ,tool boxes for truck1 #afc1 #afd lists and costs1 #bi-cb ,tools1 #bh-cb ,try square1 #cc1 #cd ,turbine1 steam1 #ahb1 #ahc ,turning edges on round trays1 #hf-ia ,v ,vent holes for draining1 #bjd1 #bje ,vents or ,louvers1 cutting in hood1 #acj-acb ,vise1 description1 #ci1 #dj used for bending wire1 #aeg used for folding1 #acb ,w ,washers1 strip1 for axles1 #adc-ade ,water wheels1 #ahb ,wheels1 making1 #ajg-aah axles for1 #aad centers1 finding1 #cg1 #ch drilling holes in center1 #aac1 #aad from tin cans with rolled-rim ends1 #aag1 #aah from tin cans with soldered ends1 #ajh-aad ice pick used for making holes in centers1 #aab1 #aac locomotive1 #agg sand1 #ahb soldering to axles1 #ada-adc water1 #ahb windmill1 #ahg ,wire1 galvanized1 sizes1 #cj used for wheel axles1 #aad ,wood chisel used for cutting tin1 #aca-acb