,,after ,,icebergs ,,with ,a ,,painter ,,iceberg ,,at ,,sunset ,d4 ,,appleton ,co4 #ddc #dde ,,broadway ,lith4 of ,sarony ,major ,knapp #ddi ,broadway ,,ny4 ,,after ,,icebergs ,,with ,a ,,painter3 ,a ,,summer ,,voyage ,,to ,,labrador ,,and ,,around ,,newfoundland4 ,,by ,,rev4 ,,louis ,l4 ,,noble1 ,,author ,,of ,,the 8,,life ,,of ,,cole10 8,,poems10 ,,etc4 ,,new ,,york3 ,d4 ,,appleton ,,and ,,company1 #ddc #dde ,,broadway4 ,,london3 #af ,,little ,,britain4 ,m4,,dccc4,,lxi4 ,,entered1 according to ,act of ,congress1 in the year #ahfa1 ,,by ,d4 ,,appleton ,,co41 ,in the ,clerk's ,office of the ,district ,court of the ,united ,states for the ,southern ,district of ,new ,york4 ,,to ,e4 ,d4 ,,palmer1 ,,the ,,sculptor1 ,,this ,,volume ,,is ,,respectfully ,dedicated4 ,,preface4 ,,the title-page alone would serve for a preface to the present volume4 ,it is the record of a voyage1 during the summer of #ahei1 in company with a distinguished landscape painter1 along the north-eastern coast of ,british ,america1 for the purpose of studying and sketching icebergs4 ,it was thought1 at first1 that the shores in the neighborhood of ,st4 ,johns1 ,newfoundland1 upon which many bergs are often floated in1 would afford all facilities4 ,it was found1 however1 upon experiment1 that they did not4 ,icebergs were too few for the requisite variety2 too scattered to be reached conveniently2 and too distant to be minutely examined from land4 ,one needed to be in the midst of them1 where he could command views1 near or remote1 of all sides of them1 at all hours of the day and evening4 ,for that purpose a small vessel was hired to take us to ,labrador4 ,favoring circumstances directed us to ,battle ,harbor1 near ,cape ,st4 ,louis1 in the waters of which icebergs1 and all facilities for sketching them1 abounded4 ,to diversify the journey1 we returned through the ,gulf of ,st4 ,lawrence1 coasting the west of ,newfoundland1 and the shores of ,cape ,breton1 and concluding with a ride across the island1 and through ,nova ,scotia to the ,bay of ,fundy4 ,if the writer has succeeded in picturing to his reader1 with some freshness1 what he saw and felt1 then will the purpose of the book1 made from notes pencilled rapidly1 have been accomplished4 ,l4 ,l4 ,n4 ,,hudson1 ,,new ,,jersey1 ,march1 #ahfa4 ,,contents4 ,,page ,,chapter ,i4 ,cool and ,novel1 #a ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,on the ,edge of the ,gulf-,stream1 #e ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,the ,painter's ,story1 #h ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,halifax1 #ae ,,chapter ,v4 ,the ,merlin1 #ai ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,sydney4--,cape ,breton4--,the ,ocean1 #bc ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,the first ,icebergs1 #bg ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,newfoundland4--,st4 ,johns1 #cj ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,an ,english ,inn4--,the ,governor and ,bishop4--,signal ,hill1 #cc ,,chapter ,x4 ,the ,ride to ,torbay4--,the lost ,sailor4--,the ,newfoundland ,dog1 #ch ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,torbay4--,flakes and ,fish-houses4--,the ,fishing-barge4--,the ,cliffs4--,the ,retreat to ,flat ,rock ,harbor4--,william ,waterman1 the fisherman1 #da ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,the ,whales4--,the ,iceberg4--,the ,return1 and the ,ride to ,st4 ,johns by ,starlight1 #eb ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,st4 ,mary's ,church4--,the ,ride to ,petty ,harbor1 #fj ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,petty ,harbor4--,the ,mountain ,river4--,cod-liver ,oil4--,the ,evening ,ride back to ,st4 ,johns1 #fe ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,the ,church ,ship4--,the ,hero of ,kars4--,the ,missionary of ,labrador1 #ga ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,sunday ,evening at the ,bishop's4--,the ,rev4 ,mr4 ,wood's ,talk about ,icebergs1 #gd ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,our ,vessel for ,labrador4--,wreck of the ,argo4--,the ,fisherman's ,funeral1 #gf ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,our ,first ,evening at ,sea1 #hj ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,icebergs of the ,open ,sea4--,the ,ocean ,chase4--,the ,retreat to ,cat ,harbor1 #hb ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,cat ,harbor4--,evening ,service in ,church4--,the ,fisherman's ,fire4--,the ,return at ,midnight1 #hi ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,after ,icebergs again4--,among the ,sea-,fowl1 #ic ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,notre ,dame ,bay4--,fogo ,island and the ,three ,hundred ,isles4--,the ,freedom of the ,seas4--,the ,iceberg of the ,sunset1 and the ,flight into ,twillingate1 #if ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,the ,sunday in ,twillingate4--,the ,morning of the ,fourth1 #ajc ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,the ,iceberg of ,twillingate1 #ajf ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,the ,freedom of the ,seas once more4--,a ,bumper to the ,queen and ,president1 #aab ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,gull ,island4--,the ,icebergs of ,cape ,st4 ,john1 #aae ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,the ,splendid ,icebergs of ,cape ,st4 ,john1 #aba ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,the ,seal ,fields4--,seals and ,sealing4--,captain ,knight's ,shipwreck1 #abi ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,belle ,isle and the ,coast4--,after-dinner ,discussion4--,first ,view of ,labrador4--,icebergs4--,the ,ocean and the ,sunset1 #ace ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,the ,midnight ,look-out ,forward4--,a ,stormy ,night4--,the ,comedy in the ,cabin1 #adc ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,the ,cape and ,bay of ,st4 ,louis4--,the ,iceberg4--,cariboo ,island4--,battle ,harbor and ,island4--,the ,anchorage4--,the ,missionaries1 #adi ,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,battle ,island and its ,scenery1 #aee ,,chapter ,,xxxiii4 ,mosses1 ,odors1 and ,flowers4--,a ,dinner ,party1 #afa ,,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ,our ,boat for the ,icebergs4--,after the ,alpine ,berg4--,study of its ,western ,face1 #afe ,,chapter ,,xxxv4 ,the ,alpine ,berg4--,studies of its ,southern ,front4--,frightful ,explosion and ,fall of ,ice4--,studies of the ,western ,side4--,our ,play with the ,moose ,horns4--,splendor of the ,berg at ,sunset1 #afi ,,chapter ,,xxxvi4 ,ramble among the ,flowers of ,battle ,island4--,a ,visit to the ,fishermen4--,walk among the ,hills of ,cariboo1 #agi ,,chapter ,,xxxvii4 ,after the ,bay ,st4 ,louis ,iceberg4--,windsor ,castle ,iceberg4--,founders ,suddenly4--,a ,brilliant ,spectacle1 #ahd ,,chapter ,,xxxviii4 ,sunday in ,labrador4--,evening ,walk to the ,graveyard4--,the ,rocky ,ocean ,shore1 #ahh ,,chapter ,,xxxix4 ,the ,sail to ,fox ,harbor4--,a ,day with the ,esquimaux1 and our ,return1 #aib ,,chapter ,,xl4 ,a ,morning ,ramble over ,cariboo4--,excursion on the ,bay1 and the ,tea-drinking at the ,solitary ,fisherman's1 #aif ,,chapter ,,xli4 ,painting the ,cavern of ,great ,island1 and our ,sail ,homeward in a ,gale1 #bjj ,,chapter ,,xlii4 ,after the ,iceberg of ,belle ,isle4--,the ,retreat to ,cartwright's ,tickle4--,bridget ,kennedy's ,cottage1 and the ,lonely ,stroll over ,cariboo1 #bjd ,,chapter ,,xliii4 ,the ,iceberg of the ,figure-head4--,the ,glory and the ,music of the ,sea at ,evening1 #baj ,,chapter ,,xliv4 ,cape ,st4 ,charles4--,the ,rip ,van ,winkle ,berg4--,the ,great ,castle ,berg4--,studies of its ,different ,fronts1 #bad ,,chapter ,,xlv4 ,the ,sail for ,st4 ,charles ,mountain4--,the ,salmon ,fishers4--,the ,cavern of ,st4 ,charles ,mountain4--,burton's ,cottage4--,magnificent ,scene from ,st4 ,charles ,mountain4--,the ,painting of the ,rip ,van ,winkle ,berg4--,the ,ice-vase1 and the ,return by ,moonlight1 #bai ,,chapter ,,xlvi4 ,after our ,last ,iceberg4--,the ,isles4--,twilight ,beauties of ,icebergs4--,midnight ,illumination1 #bbh ,,chapter ,,xlvii4 ,farewell to ,battle ,harbor4--,the ,straits of ,belle ,isle4--,labrador ,landscapes4--,the ,wreck of the ,fishermen1 #bcf ,,chapter ,,xlviii4 ,sketching the ,passing ,bergs4--,the ,story of an ,iceberg1 #bda ,,chapter ,,xlix4 ,drifting in the ,straits4--,retreat to ,temple ,bay4--,picturesque ,scenery4--,voyager's ,saturday ,night1 #bfd ,,chapter ,l4 ,sunday in ,temple ,bay4--,religious ,services4--,the ,fisherman's ,dinner and ,conversation4--,chateau4--,the ,wreck4--,winters in ,labrador4--,icebergs in the ,winter4--,the ,french ,officers' ,frolic with an ,iceberg4--,theory of ,icebergs4--,currents of the ,strait4--,the ,red ,indians4--,the ,return to the ,vessel1 #bfg ,,chapter ,,li4 ,evening ,walk to ,temple ,bay ,mountain4--,the ,little ,iceberg4--,troubles of the ,night1 and ,pleasures of the ,morning4--,up the ,straits4--,the ,pinnacle of the ,last ,iceberg4--,gulf of ,st4 ,lawrence1 #bgd ,,chapter ,,lii4 ,coast ,scenery4--,farewell to ,labrador1 #bgi ,,chapter ,,liii4 ,western ,newfoundland4--,the ,bay1 the ,islands1 and the ,highlands of ,st4 ,johns4--,ingornachoix ,bay1 #bhd ,,chapter ,,liv4 ,slow ,sailing by the ,bay of ,islands4--,the ,river ,humber4--,st4 ,george's ,river1 ,cape1 and ,bay4--,a ,brilliant ,sunset1 #bhg ,,chapter ,,lv4 ,foul ,weather4--,cape ,anguille4--,the ,clearing ,off4--,the ,frolic of the ,porpoises4--,the ,new ,cooks4--,the ,ship's ,cat1 #bij ,,chapter ,,lvi4 ,st4 ,paul's ,island4--,cape ,north4--,coast of ,cape ,breton4--,sydney ,light and ,harbor4--,the ,end of our ,voyage to ,labrador1 and around ,newfoundland1 #bih ,,chapter ,,lvii4 ,farewell to ,captain ,knight4--,on our way across ,cape ,breton4--,a ,merry ,ride1 and the ,rustic ,lover1 #cja ,,chapter ,,lviii4 ,evening ,ride to ,mrs4 ,kelly's ,tavern4--,the ,supper and the ,lodging1 #cjf ,,chapter ,,lix4 ,sunday at ,david ,murdoch's4--,scenery of ,bras d',or1 #cad ,,chapter ,,lx4 ,off for the ,strait of ,canso4--,st4 ,peters1 and the ,country4--,david ,murdoch's ,horses1 and his ,driving4--,plaster ,cove1 #cah ,,chapter ,,lxi4 ,adieu to ,david and ,cape ,breton4--,the ,strait of ,canso4--,our ,nova ,scotia ,coach4--,st4 ,george's ,bay4--,the ,ride into ,antigonish1 #cbb ,,chapter ,,lxii4 ,new ,glasgow4--,the ,ride to ,truro4--,railway ,ride to ,halifax4--,parting with the ,painter1 #cbf ,,chapter ,,lxiii4 ,coach ,ride from ,halifax to ,windsor4--,the ,prince ,edward's ,man1 and the ,gentleman from ,newfoundland1 #cbi ,,chapter ,,lxiv4 ,windsor4--,the ,avon1 and the ,tide4--,steamer for ,st4 ,johns1 ,new ,brunswick4--,mines ,basin4--,coast ,scenery4--,the ,scene of ,evangeline4--,parsboro4--,the ,bay of ,fundy4--,nova ,scotia and ,new ,brunswick ,shores4--,st4 ,johns4--,the ,maine ,coast4--,island of ,grand ,manan1 #ccb ,,illustrations4 ,,page ,no4 #a4--,,vignette--,,icebergs ,,at ,,sunset1 #a ,no4 #b4--;,a ,,large ,,iceberg ,,in ,,the ,,forenoon ,,light ,,near ,,the ,,integrity1 #aai ,no4 #c4--;,,an ,,arched ,,iceberg ,,in ,,the ,,afternoon ,,light1 #acf ,no4 #d4--;,,ice ,,falling ,,from ,a ,,lofty ,,berg1 #agc ,no4 #e4--;,,iceberg ,,in ,,the ,,morning ,,mist--,,whale-,,boat1 #bad ,no4 #f4--;,,iceberg ,,in ,,the ,,strait ,,of ,,belle ,,isle1 #bda ,,after ,,icebergs ,,with ,a ,,painter4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,cool ,,and ,,novel4 8,,after icebergs60 exclaims a prudent1 but imaginary person1 as ,i pencil the title on the front leaf of my note-book4 8,why1 after deer and trout among the ,adirondack ,mountains with ,john ,cheeney1 the ,leather-stocking of those wilds1 who kills his moose and panther with a pistol2 or after salmon on the ,jaques ,cartier and ,saguenay1 is thought to be quite enough for your summer tourist4 8,after buffalo is almost too much for any not at home in the great unfenced1 ,uncle ,sam's continental parks1 where he pastures his herds1 and waters them in the ,platte and ,colorado1 and walls out the ,pacific with the ,rocky ,mountains4 ,he is rather a fast hunter who indulges in the chase in those fair fields4 ,it is no boy's play to commit yourself to mule and horse1 the yawls of the prairie1 riding yourself sore and thirsty over the gracefully rolling1 never-breaking swells1 the green seas sparkling with dewy flowers1 but never coming ashore4 ,the ocean done up in solid land is weary voyaging to one whose youthful footsteps were over the fields1 to the sound of sabbath bells4 8,after ostriches1 with the ship of the desert1 although rather a hot chase for ,john and ,jonathan over broad sands1 yellow with the sunshine of centuries1 and the bird speeding on legs swift as the spokes of the rapid wheels1 is1 nevertheless1 a pleasure enjoyed now and then4 8,but after icebergs is certainly a cool1 if not a novel and perilous adventure4 ,a few climb to the ices of the ,andes2 but after the ices of ,greenland1 except by leave of government or your merchant prince1 is entirely another thing4 8,you will do well to recollect1 that nature works in other ways in the high north than in the high ,cordilleras and ,alps1 and especially in the latter1 where she carefully slides her mer-de-glace into the warm valley1 and gently melts it off1 letting it run merrily and freely to the sea1 every crystal fetter broken into silvery foam4 ,but in ,greenland she heaves her mile-wide glacier1 in all its flinty hardness1 into the great deep bodily1 and sends it1 both a glory and a terror1 to flourish or perish as the currents of the solemn main move it to wintry or to summer climes4 ,after icebergs6 ,weigh well the perils and the pleasures of this new summer hunting40 8,we have weighed them1 ,i confess1 not very carefully2 only #8hefting' them a little1 just enough to help us to a guess that both are somewhat heavier than the ordinary delights and dangers of sporting nearer home4 ,but1 ,prudens1 my good friend1 consider the ancient saw1 #8,nothing venture nothing have4' ,not in the least weary of the old1 we would yet have something new1 altogether new4 ,you shall seek the beauties of scales and of plumage1 and the graces of motion and the wild music of voices1 among the creatures of the brooks and woodlands4 ,our game1 for once1 is the wandering alp of the waves2 our wilderness1 the ocean2 our steed1 the winged vessel2 our arms1 the pencil and the pen2 our game-bags1 the portfolio1 painting-box1 and note-book1 all harmless instruments1 you perceive1 with mild report4 ,it is seldom that they are heard at any distance1 although1 at intervals1 the sound has gone out as far as the guns of the battle-field4 8,should we have the sport we anticipate1 you may see the rarest specimen of our luck preserved in oil and colors1 a method peculiar to those few1 who intend their articles less for the market than for immortality1 as men call the dim glimmering of things in the dusky reaches of the past4 8,but you shall hear from us1 from time to time1 if possible1 how we speed in our grand hunt1 and how the pleasures and the risks make the scale of our experience vibrate4 ,within a few minutes1 we shall be on our way to ,boston1 darting across grassy ,new ,england1 regardless as the riders of the steeple-chase of cliff and gulf1 fence1 wall and river1 with a velocity of wheels that would set the coach on fire1 did not ingenuity stand over the axles putting out the flame with oil4 8,this evening1 we meet a choice few in one of those bowery spots of ,brookline1 where intelligence dwells with taste and virtue1 and talk of our excursion4 8,to-morrow1 amid leave-takings1 smiles and tears1 and the waving of handkerchiefs1 of which we shall be only quiet spectators1 with the odor of our first sea-dinner seasoning the brief excitement of the scene1 and all handsomely rounded off with the quick thunder of the parting gun1 we sail1 at noon1 in the ,america40 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,on ,,the ,,edge ,,of ,,the ,,gulf-,,stream4 ,,friday ,,morning1 ,june #ag1 #ahei4 ,here we are on the edge of the ,gulf-,stream1 loitering in a fog that would seem to drape the whole ,atlantic in its chilly1 dismal shroud4 ,we are as impatient as children before the drop-curtain of a country show1 and in momentary expectation that this unlucky mist will rise and exhibit ,halifax1 where we leave the steamer1 and take a small coasting-vessel for ,cape ,breton and ,newfoundland4 ,as we anticipated1 both of us have been sea-sick continually4 ,i had hoped that we should have the pleasure of one dinner at least1 with that good appetite so common upon coming off into the salt air4 ,but before the soup was fairly off there came over me the old qualm1 the herald of those dreadful impulses that drive the unhappy victim either to the side of the vessel1 or down into its interior1 where he lays himself out1 pale and trembling1 on his appointed shelf1 and awaits in gloomy silence the final issue4 ,it is needless to record1 that1 with that unlucky attempt to enjoy the luxuries of the table1 perished1 not only the power1 but the wish to eat4 ,yesterday1 when ,i came on deck1 ,i found ,c---- conversing with ,agassiz4 ,although so familiar with the ,alpine glaciers1 and all that appertains to them1 he had never seen an iceberg1 and almost envied us the delight and excitement of hunting them4 ,but not even the presence and the fine talk of the great naturalist could lay the spirit of sea-sickness4 ,like a very adder lurking under the doorstone of appetite1 it refused to hear the voice of the charmer4 ,out it glided1 repulsive reptile6 and away we stole1 creeping down into our state-room1 there to burrow in damp sheets1 taciturn and melancholy 8wretches1 with thoughts concentred all in self40 ,an occasional remark1 either sad or laughable1 broke the sameness of the literally rolling hours4 ,by what particular process of mind1 ,i shall not trouble myself to explain1 the ,painter1 who occupied the lower berth1 all at once gave signs that he had come upon the borders of a capital story1 and with the spirit to carry even a dull listener to the further side of it1 and keep him thoroughly amused4 ,it was a traveller's tale1 a story of his own first ride over the mountains of ,new ,granada1 accompanied by a friend1 on his way to the ,andes4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,the ,,painter',s ,,story4 ,,twenty days1 and most of them days of intense heat and sea-sickness1 were spent on a brig from ,new ,york to the mouth of the ,magdalena4 ,in twenty minutes all that tedious voyage was sailed over again1 and he was in the best humor possible for the next nine days in a steamboat up the river1 a mighty stream1 whose forests appear like hills of verdure ranging along its almost endless banks4 ,after the steamboat1 came a tiresome time in a canoe1 followed by a dark and fireless night in the great woods1 where they were stung by the ants1 and startled by the hootings and howlings1 and all the strange voices and noises of a tropical forest4 ,then the tale kept pace with the mules all day1 jogging on slowly1 an all-day story that pictured to the listener's mind all the passing scenery and incidents1 the people and the travellers themselves1 even the ears of the self-willed1 ever-curious mules4 ,towards sunset1 the wayfarers found themselves journeying along the slope of a mountain1 willing to turn in for the night at almost any dwelling that appeared at the road-side4 ,the guide and the baggage were behind1 and suggested the propriety of an early halt4 ,but each place1 to which they looked forward1 seemed sufficiently repulsive1 upon coming up1 to make them venture on to the next4 ,they ventured1 without knowing it1 beyond the very last1 and got benighted where it was difficult enough in the broad day4 ,after a weary ride up and up1 until it did appear that they would never go down again in that direction1 they stopped and consulted1 but finally concluded to continue on1 although the darkness was almost total1 trusting to the mules to keep the path4 ,at length it was evident that they were at the top of the mountain1 and passing over upon its opposite side4 ,very soon1 the road1 a mere bridle-path1 became steep and rugged1 leading along the edges of precipices1 and down rocky1 zigzag steps1 that nothing but the bold1 sure-footed mule would or could descend4 ,the fact was1 they were going down a fearfully dangerous mountain-road1 on one of the darkest nights4 ,and1 wonderful to tell1 they went down safely1 coming out of the forest into a level vale beset with thickets and vine-covered trees1 a horrible perplexity1 in which they became heated1 scratched1 and vexed beyond all endurance4 ,at last1 they lost the way and came to a dead halt4 ,here ,c---- got off1 and leaving the mule with ,f----1 plunged into the bushes to feel for the path1 pausing occasionally to shout and to wait for an answer4 ,no path1 however1 could be found4 ,in his discouragement1 he climbed a tree with the hope of seeing a light4 ,he climbed it to the very top1 and gazed around in all directions into the wide1 unbroken night4 ,there was a star or two in the black vault1 but no gleam of human dwelling to be seen below4 ,extremes do indeed meet1 even the dreadful and the ridiculous4 ,and so it was with ,c---- in the tree-top4 ,from almost desperation1 he passed into a frolicsome mood1 and began to talk and shout1 at the top of his voice1 in about the only ,spanish he could then speak1 that he would give cinco pesos1 cinco pesos1--five dollars1 five dollars1 to any one that would come and help them4 ,from five he rose to ten4 ,but being scant of ,spanish1 he could express the ten in no other way than by doubling the cinco--cinco cinco pesos1 cinco cinco pesos4 ,fruitless effort6 ,a thousand pounds would have evoked no friendly voice from the inhospitable solitude4 ,the airing1 though1 was refreshing1 and he clambered down and attempted his way back1 shouting as usual1 but now1 to his surprise1 getting no reply4 ,what could it mean8 ,where was ,f----8 ,had he got tired of waiting1 and gone off8 ,with redoubled energy ,c---- pushed on through the interminable brush to see4 ,he was in a perfect blaze of heat1 and dripping with perspiration4 ,a thousand vines tripped him1 a thousand branches whipped him in the face4 ,when he stopped to listen1 his ears rung with the beating of his own heart1 and he made the night ring too with his loud hallooing4 ,but no one answered1 and no mules could be found4 ,nothing was left but to push forward1 and he did it1 with a still increasing energy4 ,instantly1 with a crack and crash he pitched headlong down quite a high bank into a broad brook4 ,for a moment he was frightened1 but finding himself sound1 and safely seated on the soft bottom of the brook1 he concluded to enjoy himself1 moving up and down1 with the warm water nearly to his neck1 till he had enough of it2 when he got up1 and felt his way to the opposite bank1 which1 unfortunately for him1 was some seven or eight feet of steep1 wet clay4 ,again and again did he crawl nearly to the top1 and slip back into the water--a treadmill operation that was no joke4 ,a successful attempt at scaling this muddy barrier was made1 at length1 through the kindly intervention of some vines4 ,but how was all that8 ,where was he8 ,he never crossed a stream in going to the tree4 ,he must be lost4 ,he must have become turned at the tree1 and gone in a wrong direction4 ,and yet he could not relinquish the notion that all was right4 ,he decided to continue forward1 pausing more frequently to halloo4 ,to his exceeding joy1 he presently heard a faint1 and no very distant reply4 ,he quickly heard it again--close at hand--8,c----1 come here6--come here60 ,he hastened forward4 ,f---- was sitting on the mule4 ,he said1 in a low tone of voice1 8,come here1 and help me off4 ,i am very sick40 ,he was alarmingly sick4 ,c---- helped him down1 and laid him on the ground4 ,the only thing to be done was to make a rough bed of the saddles and blankets1 secure the mules1 and wait for daylight4 ,while engaged in this1 one of the mules suddenly broke away1 and with a perilous flourish of heels about ,c----'s head1 dashed off through the thickets1 and was seen no more4 ,to crown their troubles1 a ferocious kind of ant attacked them at all points1 and kept up their assault during the remainder of the miserable night4 ,they had made their bed upon a large ant-hill4 ,in the morning1 there they were1 they knew not where1 with but one mule1 trappings for two1 and ,f---- too indisposed to proceed4 ,c---- mounted the mule and set off for relief4 ,a short ride brought him out upon the path1 which soon led down to the border of a wide marsh4 ,the crossing of the marsh was terrible4 ,the poor animal sank into the mire to the girth1 reared1 plunged and rolled1 plastering himself and rider all over and over again with the foulest mud4 ,when they reached the solid ground1 and trotted along towards some natives coming abroad to their labor1 the appearance of our traveller1 in quest of the sublime and beautiful1 was certainly not imposing4 ,he told his story to the staring ,indians in the best way his ingenuity could invent1 none of which they could be made to comprehend4 ,he inquired the way to the town1 the very name of which they seemed never to have heard4 ,he asked the distance to any place1--the nearest1--no matter what4 ,it was just as far as he was pleased to make it4 8,was it two leagues80 8,si1 ,seor40 8,was it five leagues80 8,si1 ,seor40 8,was it eight1 nine1 ten leagues80 8,si1 ,seor40 8,for how much money would they guide him to the town80 ,ah6 that was a different thing2 they had more intelligence on that subject4 ,they would guide him for a great deal4 ,in fact1 they would do it for about ten times its value4 ,he spurred his muddy mule1 galloped out of sight and hearing1 more amused than vexed1 and went ahead at a venture4 ,the venture was lucky4 ,in the course of the morning he made his entrance into the city1 succeeded in finding out the residence of the person to whom he had letters of introduction1 presented himself to the gentleman of the house1 an ,american1 and had both a welcome and a breakfast4 ,before the day was past1 ,f---- and himself were comfortably settled1 and1 with their kind host1 were making merry over their first ride on the mountains of ,south ,america4 ,i am sure ,i was made merry at the quiet recital4 ,lying as ,i was in my berth1 rolled in cloak and blanket1 and looking neither at the face nor motions of the speaker1 but only at the blank beams and boards close above1 ,i laughed till the tears ran copiously1 and ,i forgot that ,i was miserable and sea-sick4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,halifax4 ,,we have now been lying for hours off ,halifax4 ,the fog appears to be in a profound slumber4 ,whistle1 bell and big guns have no power to wake it up4 ,the waves themselves have gone to sleep under the fleecy covering4 ,old ,ocean lazily breathes and dreams4 ,the top-mast1 lofty and slim1 marks and flourishes on the misty sky1 as an idler marks the sand with his cane4 ,pricked on by our impatience1 back and forth we step the deck1 about as purposeless as leopards step their cage4 ,they are letting off the steam4 ,it is flowing up from the great fountains1 a deep and solemn voice1 a grand ventriloquism1 that muffles in its breadth and fulness all the smaller sounds1 as the mighty roar dampens the noisy dashings of the cataract4 ,what a sublime translation of human skill and genius is an engine1 this stupendous creature of iron6 ,how splendid are its polished limbs6 ,what power in all those easy motions6 ,what execution in those still and oily manuvres6 ,among the ladies there is one of more than ordinary beauty4 ,luxuriant1 dark hair1 a fair complexion with the bloom of health1 a head and neck that would attract a sculptor1 and surpassingly fine1 black eyes4 ,there is a power in beauty4 ,why has not ,god given it to us all8 ,you shall answer me that in heaven4 ,there is indeed a power in beauty4 ,it goes forth from this young woman on all sides1 like rays from some central light4 ,i have called her a ,new ,england girl1 but she turns out to be ,welsh4 ,how like magic is the work of this fog6 ,instantly almost it is pulled apart like a fleece of wool1 and lo6 the heavens1 the ocean1 and the rugged shores4 ,a pilot comes aboard from a fishing-boat1 looking as rough and craggy as if he had been1 toad-like1 blasted out of the rocks of his flinty country1 so brown and warty is his skin1 so shaggy are his beard and hair1 so sail-like and tarry is his raiment4 ,the ancient mariner for all the world6 ,his skinny hand touches no common mortal4 ,his glittering eye looks right on1 as he moves with silent importance to the place where shine the gilded buttons of the captain4 ,this is a wild northern scene4 ,hills1 bony with rock and bristling with pointed firs1 slope down to the sea4 ,but yet how beautiful is any land looking off upon the barren deeps of ocean4 ,distant is the city on a hill-side1 glittering at a thousand points1 while on either hand1 as we move in at the entrance of the harbor1 are the pleasant woods and the white dwellings1 country steeples and cultivated grounds4 ,as the comfortless mist rolls away1 and the golden light follows after1 warming the wet and chilly landscape1 ,i feel that there are bliss and beauty in ,nova ,scotia4 ,grandly as we parade ourselves1 in the presence of the country and the town1 ,i prefer the more modest1 back-street entrance of the railroad4 ,the fact is1 ,i am afraid of your great steamer on the main1 and for the reason given by a friend of mine3 if you have a smash-up on the land1 why1 there you are2 if1 on the sea1 where are you8 ,i have been talking with the fair lady of ,wales4 ,she was all spirit4 8,there was much10 she said1 8that was fine1 in ,america2 but ,wales was most beautiful of all4 ,had ,i ever been in ,wales80 ,one could well have felt sorry he was not then on his way to ,wales4 ,we parted where we met1 probably to meet no more1 and ,i went forward to gaze upon the crowded wharf1 which we were then approaching4 ,a few hasty adieus to some newly-formed acquaintances1 and we passed ashore to seek the steamer for ,cape ,breton4 ,it was waiting for us just behind the storehouse where we landed1 and soon followed the ,america with a speed not exactly in proportion to the noise and effort4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,the ,,merlin4 ,,be it known that the ,merlin1 the name in which our vessel delights1 is a small propeller1 with a screw wheel1 and a crazy mess of machinery in the middle1 which go far towards making one deaf and dumb by day1 but very wakeful and talkative by night2 so thoroughly are the rumbling1 thumping and clanking disseminated through all those parts appointed for the passengers4 ,the ,merlin has not only her peculiar noises1 but her own peculiar ways and motions2 motions half wallowing and half progressive2 a compound motion very difficult to describe1 at the time1 mainly on account of a disagreeable confusion in the brain and stomach4 ,the arrangements in the ,merlin for going to repose are better than those for quitting it4 ,no chestnut lies more snugly in the burr than your passenger in his berth4 ,if he happen to be short and slender1 it is sure to fit him all the better4 ,but when he gets out of it1 he is pushed forward into company immediately1 and washes in the one bowl1 and looks at the one glass4 ,on board the ,merlin1 one feels disposed to give the harshest words of his vocabulary a frequent airing4 ,he sees how it is1 and he says to himself3 ,i have the secret of this ,merlin2 she is intended to put a stop to travel2 to hinder people from leaving ,halifax for ,sydney and ,st4 ,johns4 ,wait you eight and forty hours after this ungenerous soliloquy1 and speak out then4 ,what do you say8 ,the ,merlin is the thing6 ,away in this dusky corner of the world ,peril spins her web4 ,high and wide and deep she stretches her subtle lines3 cliffs1 reefs and banks1 ice1 currents1 mists and winds4 ,but the ,merlin is no moth1 no feeble insect to get entangled in this terrible snare4 ,dark-winged dragonfly of the sea1 she cuts right through them all4 ,your grand ocean steamer1 with commander of repute1 plays the tragic actress quite too frequently in the presence of these dread capes4 ,but the ,merlin1 with ,captain ,sampson's tread upon the deck1 in the night and in the light1 with his look ahead and his eye aloft1 and his plummet in the deep sea1 trips along her billowy path as lightly as a lady trips among her flowers4 ,a blessing upon ,captain ,sampson who sails the little ,merlin from ,nova ,scotia to ,newfoundland4 ,he deserves to sail an ,adriatic4 ,here we are again in that same bad fog1 that smothered much of our pleasure1 and some of our good luck1 in the ,america4 ,it is gloomy midnight1 and the sea is up4 ,a pale1 blue flame crowns the smoke-stack1 and sheds a dreary light upon the sooty1 brown sails4 ,the breeze plays its wild music in the tight rigging1 while the swells beat the bass on the hollow bow4 ,to a landsman1 how frightfully the ,merlin rolls6 ,but we are dashing along through this awful wilderness1 right steadily4 ,every hour carries us ten miles nearer port4 ,ye wandering barks1 on this dark1 uncertain highway1 do hear the mournful clang of our bell1 and turn out in time as the law of nature directs6 ,ye patient1 watchful mariners that keep the look-out forward1 pierce the black mist with your keen sight1 and spy the iceberg1 that white sepulchre of the careless sailor4 ,just here there is a mountain in the deep1 and we are crossing its summit1 which accounts for the sharp1 rough sea1 the captain tells me4 ,the vessel now turns into the wind1 the loose sails roar and crack1 and bound in their strong harness1 like frightened horses2 loud voices cut through the uproar1 rapid footsteps thump1 and rattling ropes lash the deck4 ,then there is a momentary lull3 they heave the lead4 ,the mountain top is under us1 say1 five hundred feet4 ,all is right4 ,captain ,sampson puts off into wider waters1 and ,i1 chilly and damp1 creep into my berth1 full of hope and sleep4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,sydney4--,,cape ,,breton4--,,the ,,ocean4 ,,monday1 ,june #ai1 #ahei4 ,we are still rising and sinking on the misty ocean1 and somewhere on those great currents flowing from the ,gulf of ,st4 ,lawrence4 ,yesterday1 at an early hour1 we were entering ,sydney ,harbor1 ,cape ,breton1 with a tide from sea1 and a flood of brightness from the sun4 ,the lively waters1 the grassy fields dotted with white dwellings1 and the dark green woodlands were bathed in splendor4 ,a few clouds1 that might have floated away from the cotton-fields of ,alabama1 kept ,sunday in the quiet heavens4 ,we went ashore with some thought of attending church1 but found the time would not permit4 ,a short walk to some ,indian huts1 with the smoke curling up from their peaks like the pictures of volcanoes1 a cup of tea of our own making1 some toast and fresh eggs in the village tavern1 with the comfort of sitting to enjoy them at a steady table on firm land1 gave an agreeable seasoning to the hour we lingered in ,sydney1 and braced us for the long stretch across to ,newfoundland4 ,as you enter ,sydney ,bay1 you see northward some remarkable cliffs1 fan-like in shape as they rise from the sea4 ,in the clear and brilliant morning air1 they had a roseate and almost flame-like hue1 which made them appear very beautiful4 ,i thought of them as some gigantic sea-shells placed upon the brim of the blue main4 ,when they set in the waves1 along in the afternoon1 the picturesque coast of ,cape ,breton was lost to view1 and we became1 to all appearance1 a fixture in the centre of the circle made by the sky and the sea4 ,how wearisome it grew6 ,always moving forward1--yet never getting further from the line behind1--never getting nearer to the line before1--ever in the centre of the circle4 ,the azure dome was over us1 its pearl-colored eaves all around us4 ,oh6 that some power would lift its edge1 all dripping with the brine of centuries1 out of the ocean1 and let the eye peep under6 ,but all is changeless4 ,we were under the centre of the dome1 and on the hub of the great wheel1 run out upon its long spokes as rapidly and persistently as we would4 ,our stiff ship was dashing1 breast-deep1 through the green and purple banks that old ,neptune heaved up across our path4 ,bank after bank he rolled up before us1 and our strong bows burst them all1 striking foam1 snowy foam1 out of them by day1 and liquid jewelry out of them by night4 ,the circle was still around us1 the tip of the dome above4 ,we were leaving half a world of things1 and approaching half a world of things1 and yet we were that same fixture4 ,our brave motions1 after all1 turned out to be a kind of writhing on a point1 in the middle of the mighty ring1 under the key-stone of the marvellous vault4 ,the comfort of the weary time was1 that we sailed away from the morning1 passed under the noon1 and came up with1 and cut through the evening4 ,when we caught up with the evening yesterday1 and saw the sun set fire to1 and burn off that everlasting ring1 we were sitting quietly on deck1 touched with the sweet solemnities of the hallowed hour4 ,the night1 with all that it would bring us1 was coming out of the east1 moving up its stupendous shadow over the ocean2 the day1 with all it had been to us1 was leaving us1 going off into the west over the great continent4 ,we were crossing the twilight1 that narrow1 lonesome1 neutral ground1 where gloom and splendor interlock and wrestle4 ,the little petrel piped his feeble notes1 and flew close up1 following under the very feathers of the ship1 now skimming the glassy hollow of the swells1 and then tiptoe on the crest4 ,the wind was strengthening1 tuning every cord and straining every sail1 winnowing the fiery chaff1 and sowing the sparkling grain forward on the furrowed waters4 ,we had a vessel full of wind2 and so vessel1 wind and sparks together1 went away across the sea as if they were seeking some grand rendezvous4 ,far and wide the waves all hastened in the same direction1 rolling1 leaping1 crumbling into foam1 bristling the snowy feathers on neck and breast as they skipped and flew upon each other in their play and passion4 ,and so we all sped forward with one will1 and with one step1 keeping time to the music of the mighty band3 clouds1 winds and billows1 seabirds1 sails and sparkling smoke1 and ,merlin with her men2 all moving forward1 as some grand army moves onward to a battle-field4 ,when there is really nothing to describe1 why should not one record the conceits and fancies born of an evening at sea8 ,so ,i thought1 last evening1 when ,i was a little sea-sick1 and sick of the monotony of the scene1 and a little home-sick1 and felt that this was pleasure rather dearly bought4 ,still if one would see the planet upon which he has taken his passage round the sun1 and through the spaces of the universe1 he must be brave and patient1 hopeful and good-tempered4 ,be this1 or turn back1 at the first view of salt-water1 and go home to toil1 to contentment and self-possession4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,first ,,icebergs4 ,,newfoundland seems to be wreathed with fogs forever4 ,as a dwelling-place1 this world certainly appears far from complete1--an argument for a better country4 ,but yonder is the blue sky peeping through the mist1 an intimation of that better country4 ,a solitary bird sits upon a stick floating by1 looking back curiously as it grows less and less4 ,now it merely dots the gleaming wave1 and now it is quite wiped away4 ,thus float off into the past the winged pleasures of the hour4 ,again we are at blindman's-buff in the fog4 ,the whistle and the bell remind us of the perils of this play4 ,the gloom of evening deepens1 and we go below with the hope of rounding ,cape ,race1 and of wheeling down the northern sea direct for port1 before daylight4 ,down the northern sea6--,this calling north down instead of up1 appears to me to be reversing the right order of things4 ,it is against the stream1 which1 inshore1 sets from ,baffin's ,bay south2 and1 in respect of latitude1 it is up-hill3 the nearer the pole1 the higher the latitude4 ,and besides1 it is up on the map1 and was up all through my boyhood1 when geography was a favorite study4 ,but as down seems to be the direction settled upon in common parlance1 down it shall be in all these pages4 ,icebergs6 ,icebergs6--,the cry brought us upon deck at sunrise4 ,there they were1 two of them1 a large one and a smaller3 the latter pitched upon the dark and misty desert of the sea like an ,arab's tent2 and the larger like a domed mosque in marble of a greenish white4 ,the vaporous atmosphere veiled its sharp outlines1 and gave it a softened1 dreamy and mysterious character4 ,distant and dim1 it was yet very grand and impressive4 ,enthroned on the deep in lonely majesty1 the dread of mariners1 and the wonder of the traveller1 it was one of those imperial creations of nature that awaken powerful emotions1 and illumine the imagination4 ,wonderful structure6 ,fashioned by those fingers that wrought the glittering fabrics of the upper deep1 and launched upon those adamantine ways into ,arctic seas1 how beautiful1 how strong and terrible6 ,a glacier slipped into the ocean1 and henceforth a wandering cape1 a restless headland1 a revolving island1 to compromise the security of the world's broad highway4 ,no chart1 no sounding1 no knowledge of latitude avails to fix thy whereabout1 thou roving ,ishmael of the sea4 ,no look-out1 and no friendly hail or authoritative warning can cope with thy secrecy or thy silence4 ,mist and darkness are thy work-day raiment4 ,though the watchman lay his ear to the water1 he may not hear thy coming footsteps4 ,we gazed at the great ark of nature's building with steady1 silent eyes4 ,motionless and solemn as a tomb1 it seemed to look back over the waves as we sped forward into its grand presence4 ,the captain changed the course of the steamer a few points so as to pass it as closely as possible4 ,c---- was quietly making preparation to sketch it4 ,the interest was momentarily increasing4 ,we were on our way to hunt icebergs1 and had unexpectedly come up with the game4 ,we fancied it was growing colder1 and felt delighted at the chilly air1 as if it had been so much breath fresh from the living ice4 ,to our regret1 ,i may say1 to our grief1 the fog suddenly closed the view4 ,no drop-curtain could have shut out the spectacle more quickly and more completely4 ,the steamer was at once put on her true course1 and the icebergs were left to pursue their solitary way along the misty ,atlantic4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,newfoundland4--,,st4 ,,johns4 ,,when the mist dispersed1 the rocky shores of ,newfoundland were close upon our left1--lofty cliffs1 red and gray1 terribly beaten by the waves of the broad ocean4 ,we amused ourselves1 as we passed abreast the bays and headlands and rugged islands1 with gazing at the wild scene1 and searching out the beauty timidly reposing among the bleak and desolate4 ,on the whole1 ,newfoundland1 to the voyager from the ,states1 is a lean and bony land1 in thin1 ragged clothes1 with the smallest amount of ornament4 ,along the sides of the dull1 brown mountains there is a suspicion of verdure1 spotted and striped here and there with meagre woods of birch and fir4 ,the glory of this hard region is its coast3 a wonderful perplexity of fiords1 bays and creeks1 islands1 peninsulas and capes1 endlessly picturesque1 and very often magnificently grand4 ,nothing can well exceed the headlands and precipices1 honey-combed1 shattered1 and hollowed out into vast caverns1 and given up to the thunders and the fury of the deep-sea billows4 ,read the ,pirate of ,scott again1 and ,sumburg ,head will picture for you numbers of heads1 of which it is not important to mention the name4 ,the brooks that flow from the highlands1 and fall over cliffs of great elevation into the very surf1 and that would be counted features of grandeur in some countries1 are here the merest trifles1 a kind of jewelry on the hem of the landscape4 ,the harbor of ,st4 ,johns is certainly one of the most remarkable for bold and effective scenery on the ,atlantic shore4 ,the pictures of it1 which of late abound1 and are quite truthful as miniature portraits1 fail entirely to suggest the grand expression and strong character of the coast4 ,we were moving spiritedly forward over a bright and lively sea1 watching the stern headlands receding in the south1 and starting out to view in the north1 when we passed ,cape ,spear1 a lofty promontory1 crowned with a light-house and a signal-shaft1 upon which was floating the meteor-flag of ,england1 and at once found ourselves abreast the bay in front of ,st4 ,johns4 ,not a vestige1 though1 of any thing like a city was in sight1 except another flag flitting on a distant pinnacle of rock4 ,like a mighty ,coliseum1 the sea-wall half encircled the deep water of this outer bay1 into which the full power of the ocean let itself under every wind except the westerly4 ,right towards the coast where it gathered itself up into the greatest massiveness1 and tied itself into a very ,gordian knot1 we cut across1 curious to behold when and where the rugged adamant was going to split and let us through4 ,at length it opened1 and we looked through1 and presently glided through a kind of mountain-pass1 with all the lonely grandeur of the ,franconia ,notch4 ,above us1 and close above1 the rugged1 brown cliffs rose to a fine height1 armed at certain points with cannon1 and before us1 to all appearance1 opened out a most beautiful mountain lake1 with a little city looking down from the mountain side1 and a swamp of shipping along its shores4 ,we were in the harbor1 and before ,st4 ,johns4 ,as we bade adieu to the sea1 and hailed the land with our plucky little gun1 the echoes rolled among the hills1 and rattled along the rocky galleries of the mountains in the finest style4 ,we were quite delighted4 ,so fresh and novel was the prospect1 so unexpected were the peculiar sentiment and character of the scene1 one could hardly realize that it was old to the experience of tens of thousands4 ,i could scarcely help feeling1 there was stupidity somewhere1 that more had not been said about what had been seen by so many for so long a time4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,an ,,english ,,inn4--,,governor ,,and ,,bishop4--,,signal ,,hill4 ,,wednesday1 ,june #bb1 #ahei4--,we are at ,warrington's1 a genuine ,english inn1 with nice rooms and a home-like quiet1 where the finest salmon1 with other luxuries1 can be had at moderate prices4 ,every thing is ,english but ourselves4 ,i feel that the ,yankee in me is about as prominent as the bowsprit of the ,great ,republic1 the queen ship of the metropolis of yankeedom1 the renowned port from which we sailed1 and through the scholarly air of which my thoughts wing their flight home4 ,among other qualities foremost at this moment1 7and for which ,i discover the ,bull family is certainly pre-eminent17 is appetite1 the measure of which1 at table1 is time1 not quantity4 ,my chief solicitude at breakfast1 dinner1 tea and supper1 is not so much about what ,i am to eat1 as about how ,i shall eat1 so as not to distinguish myself4 ,c----1 who is looked upon as one of the immortals1 and ,i1 in his wake1 perhaps as his private chaplain1 may be regarded as representative people from the ,states4 ,we would1 therefore1 avoid signalizing ourselves at the trencher4 ,the method adopted on these frequent occasions1 is to be on hand early1 to expend small energy in useless conversation1 and to retire modestly1 though late1 from the entertainment4 ,it is surprising how well we acquit ourselves without exciting admiration4 ,i am hopeful that the impression in the house is1 that we are small eaters and talkers1 persons slightly diffident1 who eat chiefly in order to live1 and prosper on our voyage4 ,under this cover1 it is wonderful what an amount of spoil we bear away1 over which merriment applauds in the privacy of our rooms4 ,when the gray morning light stole at the same time into my chamber and my dreams1 it was raining heavily1 a seasonable hindrance to early excursions1 affording ample time to arrange those plans which we are now carrying out4 ,in company with ,mr4 ,newman1 our consul1 to whom we are indebted for unremitting attentions and hospitalities1 we first called on the ,bishop of ,newfoundland4 ,the visitation of his large diocese1 which embraces both the island and ,labrador1 together with the distant isle of ,bermuda1 has given him a thorough knowledge of the shores and ices of these northern seas4 ,an hour's conversation1 illustrated with maps and drawings1 seems to have put us in possession of nearly all the facts necessary in order to a pleasant and successful expedition4 ,at the close of our interview1 during which the ,bishop informed us that he was just setting off upon an extensive coast visitation1 he very kindly invited us to join his party for the summer1 and take our passage in the ,hawk1 his 8,church ,ship40 ,it was a most tempting offer1 and would have been accepted with delight had the voyage been shorter4 ,there was no certainty of the vessel's return before ,september1 a time too long for my purposes4 ,to be left in any port1 in those out-of-the-way waters1 with the expectation of a chance return1 was not to be thought of4 ,we declined the generous offer of the ,bishop1 but with real regret4 ,to have made the tour of ,newfoundland and ,labrador1 with a ,christian gentleman and scholar so accomplished1 would have been a privilege indeed4 ,from the house of the ,bishop1 a neat residence near his cathedral1 we climbed the hill upon which stands the palace of the ,governor1 ,sir ,alexander ,bannerman1 commanding a fine prospect of the town and harbor1 the ocean and adjacent country4 ,as we passed up the broad avenue1 shaded by the poplar1 birch and fir1 instead of those patricians of the wood1 the maple1 oak and elm2 the flag1 waving in the cool sea-breeze1 and the brown-coated soldier1 pacing to and fro1 reminded one of the presence of ,english power4 ,his ,excellency1 a stately and venerable man1 to whom we had come purposely to pay our respects1 received us in a spacious room with antique furniture4 ,during the conversation1 he expressed much pleasure that a painter of distinction had come to visit the scenery of ,newfoundland1 and kindly offered such assistance as would facilitate sketching in the neighborhood4 ,a soldier should watch for icebergs1 on ,signal ,hill1 a lofty peak that overlooks the sea2 a boat should be at his command1 the moment one was needed4 ,upon leaving1 he gave us for perusal ,sir ,richard ,bonnycastle's ,newfoundland4 ,from the western front of the house1 we overlooked a broad vale1 dotted with farmhouses1 and1 in its ,june dress of grass and dandelions1 quite ,new-,england-like4 ,we continued our walk to ,quidy ,viddy1 a pretty lake1 and returned in time to call upon ,mr4 ,ambrose ,shea1 ,speaker of the ,assembly1 to whom ,c---- had letters of introduction4 ,after dinner we set off for ,signal ,hill1 the grand observatory of the country1 both by nature and art4 ,before we were half-way up1 we found that ,june was ,june1 even in ,newfoundland4 ,but there is something in a mountain ramble that pays for all warmth and fatigue4 ,little rills rattled by1 paths wound among rocky notches and grassy chasms1 and led out to dizzy 8over-looks0 and 8short-offs40 ,the town with its thousand smokes sat in a kind of amphitheatre1 and seemed to enjoy the spectacle of sails and colors in the harbor4 ,below us were the fishing-flakes1 a kind of thousand-legged shelves1 made of poles1 and covered with spruce boughs1 for drying fish1 the local term for cod1 and placed like terraces or large steps one above another on the rocky slopes4 ,we struck into a fine military road1 and passed spacious stone barracks1 soldiers and soldiers' families1 goats and little gardens4 ,from the observatory1 situated on the craggy pinnacle1 both the rugged interior and the expanse of ocean were before us4 ,far off at sea a cloud of canvas was shining in the afternoon sun1 a kind of golden white1 while down the northern coast1 distant several miles1 was an iceberg4 ,it was glittering in the sunshine like a mighty crystal4 ,the work and play of to-morrow were resolved upon immediately1 and we descended at our leisure1 plucking the wild flowers among the moss and herbage1 and gazing quietly at the hues and features of the extended prospect4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,the ,,ride ,,to ,,torbay4--,,the ,,lost ,,sailor4--,,the ,,newfoundland ,,dog4 ,,thursday1 ,june #bc4 ,we were stirring betimes1 making preparations for our first venture after an iceberg4 ,unluckily1 it was a ,romish holiday1 and every vehicle in town seemed to be busy carrying people about1 by the time we thought it necessary to engage one for ourselves4 ,we succeeded at length in securing a hard-riding wagon1 driven by a young ,englishman1 and were soon on our way1 trundling along at a good pace over the smooth road leading from ,st4 ,johns to ,torbay1 the nearest water to our berg1 and distant some eight or nine miles4 ,the morning was fine1 the sunshine cheering1 the air cool and bracing1 and all went promisingly4 ,the adjacent country is an elevated kind of barren1 clothed with brushwood1 spruce and birch1 crossed by numerous little trout brooks1 and spotted with ponds and wet meadows1 with here and there a lonely-looking hut4 ,but there were the songs of birds1 the tinkling of cow-bells1 and the odor of evergreens and flowers4 ,a characteristic of the coast is its elevation above the country lying behind4 ,instead of descending1 the lands rise1 as you approach the ocean1 into craggy domes1 walls and towers1 breaking off precipitously1 and affording from the eminences of our road prospects of sparkling sea4 ,our hearts were full of music1 and our minds and conversation were a kind of reflection of the solitary scene4 ,for months1 our young man tells us1 the snow lies so deeply along this fine road as to render it impassable for sleighs1 except when sufficiently hard to bear a horse4 ,the snow-shoe is then in general use4 ,one of the pests of early summer is the black fly1 as we have already experienced4 ,a few years ago1 a sailor ran away from his vessel1 at ,st4 ,johns1 and took to these bushy wilds1 in which1 at length1 he got lost1 and finally perished from the bites of this pestilent fly4 ,he was found accidentally1 and in a state of insensibility1 being covered with them1 and so nearly devoured that he died within a few hours after his discovery4 ,speaking of the ,newfoundland dog1 he told us that one of pure1 original blood1 was scarcely to be found4 ,i had supposed1 and had good reason for it1 from what ,i had read in the papers1 about the time of the visit to ,st4 ,johns1 upon the laying of the ,atlantic ,cable1 that any person could for a small sum purchase numbers of the finest dogs4 ,i think a certain correspondent of some ,new ,york daily1 told us that several gentlemen supplied themselves with these animals upon their departure4 ,if such was the case1 then they took away with them about the last of the real breed1 and must have paid for them such prices as they would not like to own4 ,scarcely a splendid dog is now to be seen1 and five1 ten1 and even twenty pounds sterling might be refused for him4 ,we have not seen the first animal that compares with those which trot up and down ,broadway nearly every week2 and they are not the pure-blooded creature1 either1 by a good deal4 ,it is to be regretted1 that dogs of such strength1 beauty and sagacity should have been permitted to become almost extinct in their native country4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,torbay4--,,flakes ,,and ,,fish-,,houses4--,,the ,,fishing ,,barge4--,,the ,,cliffs4--,,the ,,retreat ,,to ,,flat ,,rock ,,harbor4--,,william ,,waterman1 ,,the ,,fisherman4 ,,torbay1 finely described in a recent novel by the ,rev4 ,r4 ,t4 ,s4 ,lowell1 is an arm of the sea1 a short1 strong arm with a slim hand and finger1 reaching into the rocky land1 and touching the waterfalls and rapids of a pretty brook4 ,here is a little village1 with ,romish and ,protestant steeples1 and the dwellings of fishermen1 with the universal appendages of fishing-houses1 boats and flakes4 ,one seldom looks upon a hamlet so picturesque and wild4 ,the rocks slope steeply down to the wonderfully clear water4 ,thousands of poles support half-acres of the spruce-bough shelf1 beneath which is a dark1 cool region1 crossed with footpaths1 and not unfrequently sprinkled and washed by the surf1--a most kindly office on the part of the sea1 you will allow1 when once you have scented the fish-offal perpetually dropping from the evergreen fish-house above4 ,these little buildings on the flakes are conspicuous features1 and look as fresh and wild as if they had just wandered away from the woodlands4 ,there they stand1 on the edge of the lofty pole-shelf1 or upon the extreme end of that part of it which runs off frequently over the water like a wharf1 an assemblage of huts and halls1 bowers and arbors1 a curious huddle made of poles and sweet-smelling branches and sheets of birch-bark4 ,a kind of evening haunts these rooms of spruce1 at noonday1 while at night a hanging lamp1 like those we see in old pictures of crypts and dungeons1 is to the stranger only a kind of buoy by which he is to steer his way through the darkness4 ,to come off then without pitching headlong1 and soiling your hands and coat1 is the merest chance4 ,strange6 one is continually allured into these piscatory bowers whenever he comes near them4 ,in spite of the chilly1 salt air1 and the repulsive smells about the tables where they dress the fish1 ,i have a fancy for these queer structures4 ,their front door opens upon the sea1 and their steps are a mammoth ladder1 leading down to the swells and the boats4 ,there is a charm also about fine fishes1 fresh from the net and the hook1--the salmon1 for example1 whose pink and yellow flesh has given a name to one of the most delicate hues of ,art or ,nature4 ,but where was the iceberg8 ,we were not a little disappointed when all ,torbay was before us1 and nothing but dark water to be seen4 ,to our surprise1 no one had ever seen or heard of it4 ,it must lie off ,flat ,bock ,harbor1 a little bay below1 to the north4 ,we agreed with the supposition that the berg must lie below1 and made speedy preparations to pursue1 by securing the only boat to be had in the village1--a substantial fishing-barge1 laden rather heavily in the stern with at least a cord of cod-seine1 but manned by six stalwart men1 a motive power1 as it turned out1 none too large for the occasion4 ,we embarked at the foot of a fish-house ladder1 being carefully handed down by the kind-hearted men1 and took our seats forward on the little bow-deck4 ,all ready1 they pulled away at their long1 ponderous oars1 with the skill and deliberation of life-long practice1 and we moved out upon the broad1 glassy swells of the bay towards the open sea1 not indeed with the rapidity of a ,yankee club-boat1 but with a most agreeable steadiness1 and a speed happily fitted for a review of the shores1 which1 under the afternoon sun1 were made brilliant with lights and shadows4 ,we were presently met by a breeze1 which increased the swell1 and made it easier to fall in close under the northern shore1 a line of stupendous precipices1 to which the ocean goes deep home4 ,the ride beneath these mighty cliffs was by far the finest boat-ride of my life4 ,while they do not equal the rocks of the ,saguenay1 yet1 with all their appendages of extent1 structure1 complexion and adjacent sea1 they are sufficiently lofty to produce an almost appalling sense of sublimity4 ,the surges lave them at a great height1 sliding from angle to angle1 and fretting into foam as they slip obliquely along the face of the vast walls4 ,they descend as deeply as two hundred feet1 and rise perpendicularly two1 three1 and four hundred feet from the water4 ,their stratifications are up and down1 and of different shades of light and dark1 a ribbed and striped appearance that increases the effect of height1 and gives variety and spirit to the surface4 ,at one point1 where the rocks advance from the main front1 and form a kind of headland1 the strata1 six and eight feet thick1 assume the form of a pyramid1 from a broad base of a hundred yards or more running up to meet in a point4 ,the heart of this vast cone has partly fallen out1 and left the resemblance of an enormous tent with cavernous recesses and halls1 in which the shades of evening were already lurking1 and the surf was sounding mournfully4 ,occasionally it was musical1 pealing forth like the low tones of a great organ with awful solemnity4 ,now and then1 the gloomy silence of a minute was broken by the crash of a billow far within1 when the reverberations were like the slamming of great doors4 ,after passing this grand specimen of the architecture of the sea1 there appeared long rocky reaches1 like ,egyptian temples1 old dead cliffs of yellowish gray1 checked off by lines and seams into squares1 and having the resemblance1 where they have fallen out into the ocean1 of doors and windows opening in upon the fresher stone4 ,presently we came to a break1 where there were grassy slopes and crags intermingled1 and a flock of goats skipping about1 or ruminating in the warm sunshine4 ,a knot of kids--the reckless little creatures6--were sporting along the edge of the precipice in a manner almost painful to witness4 ,the pleasure of leaping from point to point1 where a single mis-step would have dropped them hundreds of feet1 seemed to be in proportion to the danger4 ,the sight of some women1 who were after the goats1 reminded the boatmen of an accident which occurred here only a few days before3 a lad playing about the steep1 fell into the sea1 and was drowned4 ,we were now close upon the point just behind which we expected to behold the iceberg4 ,the surf was sweeping the black reef1 that flanked the small cape1 in the finest style1--a beautiful dance of breakers of dazzling white and green4 ,as every stroke of the oars shot us forward1 and enlarged our view of the field in which the ice was reposing1 our hearts fairly throbbed with an excitement of expectation4 8,there it is60 one exclaimed4 ,an instant revealed the mistake4 ,it was only the next headland in a fog1 which unwelcome mist was now coming down upon us from the broad waters1 and covering the very tract where the berg was expected to be seen4 ,further and further out the long1 strong sweep of the great oars carried us1 until the depth of the bay between us and the next headland was in full view4 ,it may appear almost too trifling a matter over which to have had any feeling worth mentioning or remembering1 but ,i shall not soon forget the disappointment1 when from the deck of our barge1 as it rose and sank on the large swells1 we stood up and looked around1 and saw that if the iceberg1 over which our very hearts had been beating with delight for twenty-four hours1 was anywhere1 it was somewhere in the depths of that untoward fog4 ,it might as well have been in the depths of the ocean4 ,while the pale cloud slept there1 there was nothing left for us but to wait patiently where we were1 or retreat4 ,we chose the latter4 ,c---- gave the word to pull for the settlement1 at the head of the little bay just mentioned1 and so they rounded the breakers on the reef1 and we turned away for the second time1 when the game1 as we had thought1 was fairly ours4 ,even the hardy fishermen1 no lovers of 8islands-of-ice10 as they call the bergs1 felt for us1 as they read in our looks the disappointment1 not to say a little vexation4 ,while on our passage in1 we filled a half-hour with questions and discussions about that iceberg4 8,we certainly saw it yesterday evening2 and a soldier of ,signal ,hill told us that it had been close in at ,torbay for several days4 ,and you1 my man there1 say that you had a glimpse of it last evening4 ,how happens it to be away just now8 ,where do you think it is80 8,indeed1 sir1 he must be out in the fog1 a mile or over4 ,de'il a bit can a man look after a thing in a fog more nor into a snow-bank4 ,maybe1 sir1 he's foundered2 or he might be gone off to sea altogether1 as they sometimes does40 8,well1 this is rather remarkable4 ,huge as these bergs are1 they escape very easily under their old cover4 ,no sooner do we think we have them1 than they are gone4 ,no jackal was ever more faithful to his lion1 no pilot-fish to his shark1 than the fog to its berg4 ,we will run in yonder and inquire about it4 ,we may get the exact bearing1 and reach it yet1 even in the fog40 ,the wind and sea being in our favor1 we soon reached a fishery-ladder1 which we now knew very well how to climb1 and wound our 8dim and perilous way0 through the evergreen labyrinth of fish-bowers1 emerging on the solid rock1 and taking the path to the fisherman's house4 ,here lives and works and wears himself out1 ,william ,waterman1 a deep-voiced1 broad-chested1 round-shouldered wight1 dressed1 not in cloth of gold1 but of oil1 with the foxy remnant of a last winter's fur cap clinging to his large1 bony head1 a little in the style of a piece of turf to a stone4 ,you seldom look into a more kindly1 patient face1 or into an eye that more directly lets up the light out of a large1 warm heart4 ,his countenance is one sober shadow of honest brown1 occasionally lighted by a true and guileless smile4 ,william ,waterman has seen the 8island-of-ice40 8,it lies off there1 two miles or more1 grounded on a bank1 in forty fathoms water40 ,it was nearly six o'clock2 and yet1 as there were signs of the fog clearing away1 we thought it prudent to wait4 ,a dull1 long hour passed by1 and still the sun was high in the north-west4 ,that heavy cod-seine1 a hundred fathoms long1 sank the stern of our barge rather deeply1 and made it row heavily4 ,for all that1 there was time enough yet1 if we could only use it4 ,the fog still came in masses from the sea1 sweeping across the promontory between us and ,torbay1 and fading into air nearly as soon as it was over the land4 ,in the mean time1 we sat upon the rocks--upon the wood-pile--stood around and talked--looked out into the endless mist--looked at the fishermen's houses--their children--their fowls and dogs4 ,a couple of young women1 that might have been teachers of the village school1 had there been a school1 belles of the place1 rather neatly dressed1 and with hair nicely combed1 tripped shyly by1 each with an arm about the other's waist1 and very merry until abreast of us1 when they were as silent and downcast as if they had been passing by their sovereign queen1 or the ,great ,mogul4 ,their curiosity and timidity combined were quite amusing4 ,we speculated upon the astonishment that would have seized upon their simple1 innocent hearts1 had they beheld1 instead of us1 a bevy of our city fashionables in full bloom4 ,at length we accepted an invitation to walk into the house1 and sat1 not under the good-man's roof1 but under his chimney1 a species of large funnel1 into which nearly one end of the house resolved itself4 ,here we sat upon some box-like benches before a wood fire1 and warmed ourselves1 chatting with the family4 ,while we were making ourselves comfortable and agreeable1 we made the novel1 and rather funny discovery of a hen sitting on her nest just under the bench1 with her red comb at our fingers' ends4 ,a large griddle hung suspended in the more smoky regions of the chimney1 ready to be lowered for the baking of cakes or frying fish4 ,having tarred my hand1 the fisherman's wife1 kind woman1 insisted upon washing it herself4 ,after rubbing it with a little grease1 she first scratched it with her finger-nail1 and then finished with soap and water and a good wiping with a coarse towel4 ,i begged that she would spare herself the trouble1 and allow me to help myself4 ,but it was no trouble at all for her1 and the greatest pleasure4 ,and what should ,i know about washing off tar8 ,they were members of the ,church of ,england1 and seemed pleased when they found that ,i was a clergyman of the ,episcopal ,church4 ,they had a pastor1 who visited them and others in the village occasionally1 and held divine service on ,sunday at ,torbay1 where they attended1 going in boats in summer1 and over the hills on snow-shoes in the winter4 ,the woman told me1 in an undertone1 that the family relations were not all agreed in their religious faith1 and that they could not stop there any longer1 but had gone to 8,america10 which they liked much better4 ,it was a hard country1 any way1 no matter whether one were ,protestant or ,papist4 ,three months were all their summer1 and nearly all their time for getting ready for the long1 cold winter4 ,to be sure1 they had codfish and potatoes1 flour and butter1 tea and sugar2 but then it took a deal of hard work to make ends meet4 ,the winter was not as cold as we thought1 perhaps2 but then it was so long and snowy6 ,the snow lay five1 six1 and seven feet deep4 ,wood was a great trouble4 ,there was a plenty of it1 but they could not keep cattle or horses to draw it home4 ,dogs were their only teams1 and they could fetch but small loads at a time4 ,in the mean while1 a chubby little boy1 with cheeks like a red apple1 had ventured from behind his young mother1 where he had kept dodging as she moved about the house1 and edged himself up near enough to be patted on the head1 and rewarded for his little liberties with a half-dime4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,the ,,whales4--,,the ,,iceberg4--,,the ,,return1 ,,and ,,the ,,ride ,,to ,,st4 ,,johns ,,by ,,starlight4 ,,the sunshine was now streaming in at a bit of a window1 and ,i went out to see what prospect of success4 ,c----1 who had left some little time before1 was nowhere to be seen4 ,the fog seemed to be in sufficient motion to disclose the berg down some of the avenues of clear air that were opened occasionally4 ,they all ended1 however1 with fog instead of ice4 ,i made it convenient to walk to the boat1 and pocket a few cakes1 brought along as a kind of scattering lunch4 ,c---- was descried1 at length1 climbing the broad1 rocky ridge the eastern point of which we had doubled on our passage from ,torbay4 ,making haste up the crags by a short cut1 ,i joined him on the verge of the promontory1 pretty well heated and out of breath4 ,the effort was richly rewarded4 ,the mist was dispersing in the sunny air around us2 the ocean was clearing off2 the surge was breaking with a pleasant sound below4 ,at the foot of the precipice were four or five whales1 from thirty to fifty feet in length1 apparently4 ,we could have tossed a pebble upon them4 ,at times abreast1 and then in single file1 round and round they went1 now rising with a puff followed by a wisp of vapor1 then plunging into the deep again4 ,there was something in their large movements very imposing1 and yet very graceless4 ,there seemed to be no muscular effort1 no exertion of any force from within1 and no more flexibility in their motions than if they had been built of timber4 ,they appeared to move very much as a wooden whale might be supposed to move down a mighty rapid1 rolling and plunging and borne along irresistibly by the current4 ,as they rose1 we could see their mouths occasionally1 and the lighter colors of the skin below4 ,as they went under1 their huge1 black tails1 great winged things not unlike the screw-wheel of a propeller1 tipped up above the waves4 ,now and then one would give the water a good round slap1 the noise of which smote sharply upon the ear1 like the crack of a pistol in an alley4 ,it was a novel sight to watch them in their play1 or labor rather2 for they were feeding upon the capelin1 pretty little fishes that swarm along these shores at this particular season4 ,we could track them beneath the surface about as well as upon it4 ,in the sunshine1 and in contrast with the fog1 the sea was a very dark blue or deep purple4 ,above the whales the water was green1 a darker green as they descended1 a lighter green as they came up4 ,large oval spots of changeable green water1 moving silently and shadow-like along1 in strong contrast with the surrounding dark1 marked the places where the monsters were gliding below4 ,when their broad1 blackish backs were above the waves1 there was frequently a ring or ruffle of snowy surf1 formed by the breaking of the swell1 around the edges of the fish4 ,the review of whales1 the only review we had witnessed in ,her ,majesty's dominions1 was1 on the whole1 an imposing spectacle4 ,we turned from it to witness another1 of a more brilliant character4 ,to the north and east1 the ocean1 dark and sparkling1 was1 by the magic action of the wind1 entirely clear of fog2 and there1 about two miles distant1 stood revealed the iceberg in all its cold and solitary glory4 ,it was of a greenish white1 and of the ,greek-temple form1 seeming to be over a hundred feet high4 ,we gazed some minutes with silent delight on the splendid and impressive object1 and then hastened down to the boat1 and pulled away with all speed to reach it1 if possible1 before the fog should cover it again1 and in time for ,c---- to paint it4 ,the moderation of the oarsmen and the slowness of our progress were quite provoking4 ,i watched the sun1 the distant fog1 the wind and waves1 the increasing motion of the boat1 and the seemingly retreating berg4 ,a good half-hour's toil had carried us into broad waters1 and yet1 to all appearance1 very little nearer4 ,the wind was freshening from the south1 the sea was rising1 thin mists--a species of scout from the main body of fog lying off in the east--were scudding across our track4 ,james ,goss1 our captain1 threw out a hint of a little difficulty in getting back4 ,but ,yankee energy was indomitable3 ,c---- quietly arranged his painting-apparatus2 and ,i1 wrapped in my cloak more snugly1 crept out forward on the little deck1--a sort of look-out4 ,to be honest1 ,i began to wish ourselves on our way back1 as the black1 angry-looking swells chased us up1 and flung the foam upon the bow and stern4 ,all at once1 huge squadrons of fog swept in1 and swamped the whole of us1 boat and berg1 in their thin1 white obscurity4 ,for a moment we thought ourselves foiled again4 ,but still the word was ,on6 ,and on they pulled1 the hard-handed fishermen1 now flushed and moist with rowing4 ,again the ice was visible1 but dimly1 in his misty drapery4 ,there was no time to be lost4 ,now1 or not at all4 ,and so ,c---- began4 ,for half an hour1 pausing occasionally for passing flocks of fog1 he plied the brush with a rapidity not usual1 and under disadvantages that would have mastered a less experienced hand4 ,we were getting close down upon the berg1 and in fearfully rough water4 ,in their curiosity to catch glimpses of the advancing sketch1 the men pulled with little regularity1 and trimmed the boat very badly4 ,we were rolling frightfully to a landsman4 ,c---- begged of them to keep their seats1 and hold the barge just there as near as possible4 ,to amuse them1 ,i passed an opera-glass around among them1 with which they examined the iceberg and the coast4 ,they turned out to be excellent good fellows1 and entered into the spirit of the thing in a way that pleased us4 ,i am sure they would have held on willingly till dark1 if ,c---- had only said the word1 so much interest did they feel in the attempt to paint the 8island-of-ice40 ,the hope was to linger about it until sunset1 for its colors1 lights and shadows4 ,that1 however1 was suddenly extinguished4 ,heavy fog came on1 and we retreated1 not with the satisfaction of a conquest1 nor with the disappointment of a defeat1 but cheered with the hope of complete success1 perhaps the next day1 when ,c---- thought that we could return upon our game in a little steamer1 and so secure it beyond the possibility of escape4 ,the seine was now hauled from the stern to the centre of the barge2 and the men pulled away for ,torbay1 a long six miles1 rough and chilly4 ,for my part1 ,i was trembling with cold1 and found it necessary to lend a hand at the oars1 an exercise which soon made the weather feel several degrees warmer1 and rendered me quite comfortable4 ,after a little1 the wind lulled1 the fog dispersed again1 and the iceberg seemed to contemplate our slow departure with complacent serenity4 ,we regretted that the hour forbade a return4 ,it would have been pleasant to play around that ,parthenon of the sea in the twilight4 ,the best that was left us1 was to look back and watch the effects of light1 which were wonderfully fine1 and had the charm of entire novelty4 ,the last view was the very finest4 ,all the east front was a most tender blue2 the fissures on the southern face1 from which we were rowing directly away1 were glittering green2 the western front glowed in the yellow sunlight2 around were the dark waters1 and above1 one of the most beautiful of skies4 ,we fell under the land presently1 and passed near the northern cape of ,flat-,rock ,bay1 a grand headland of red sandstone1 a vast and dome-like pile1 fleeced at the summit with green turf and shrubs of fir4 ,the sun1 at last1 was really setting4 ,there was the old magnificence of the king of day1--airy deeps of ineffable blue and pearl1 stained with scarlets and crimsons1 and striped with living gold4 ,a blaze of white light1 deepening into the richest orange1 crowned the distant ridge behind which the sun was vanishing4 ,a vapory splendor1 rose-color and purple1 was dissolving in the atmosphere2 and every wave of the ocean1 a dark violet1 nearly black1 was 8a flash of golden fire40 ,bathed with this almost supernatural glory1 the headland1 in itself richly complexioned with red1 brown and green1 was at once a spectacle of singular grandeur and solemnity4 ,i have no remembrance of more brilliant effects of light and color4 ,the view filled us with emotions of delight4 ,we shot from beneath the great cliff into ,flat-,rock ,bay1 rounding1 at length1 the breakers and the cape into the smoother waters of ,torbay4 ,as the oars dipped regularly into the polished swells1 reflecting the heavens and the wonderful shores1 all lapsed into silence4 ,in the gloom of evening the rocks assumed an unusual height and sublimity4 ,gliding quietly below them1 we were saluted1 every now and then1 by the billows thundering in some adjacent cavern4 ,the song of the sea in its old halls rung out in a style quite unearthly4 ,the slamming of the mighty doors seemed far off in the chambers of the cliff1 and the echoes trembled themselves away1 muffled into stillness by the stupendous masses4 ,thus ended our first real hunting of an iceberg4 ,when we landed1 we were thoroughly chilled4 ,our man was waiting with his wagon1 and so was a little supper in a house near by1 which we enjoyed with an appetite that assumed several phases of keenness as we proceeded4 ,there was a tower of cold roast beef1 flanked by bread and butter and bowls of hot tea4 ,the whole was carried silently1 without remark1 at the point of knife and fork4 ,we were a forlorn-hope of two1 and fell to1 winning the victory in the very breach4 ,we drove back over the fine gravel road at a round trot1 watching the last edge of day in the north-west and north1 where it no sooner fades than it buds again to bloom into morning4 ,we lived the new iceberg experience all over again1 and planned for the morrow4 ,the stars gradually came out of the cool1 clear heavens1 until they filled them with their sparkling multitudes4 ,for every star we seemed to have a lively and pleasurable thought1 which came out and ran among our talk1 a thread of light4 ,when we looked at the hour1 as we sat fresh and wakeful1 warming at our ,english inn1 in ,st4 ,johns1 it was after midnight4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,st4 ,,mary',s ,,church4--,,the ,,ride ,,to ,,petty ,,harbor4 ,,friday1 ,june #bd4 ,daylight1 with the street noises1 surprised me in the very midst of the sweetest slumbers4 ,i had already learned that the summer daybreak1 in these more northern latitudes1 was far enough ahead of breakfast1 and so ,i flattered myself back into one of those light and dreamy sleeps that last1 or seem to last1 for several long and pleasant hours4 ,when the bell aroused me1 the day appeared old and glittering enough for noon4 ,but it was only in good time for us1 a little worn with the excitement and toils of the day before1 and in trim to enjoy a good solid breakfast4 ,all thought of revisiting the iceberg of ,torbay was postponed1 at least for the present1 and the day given up to previous invitations4 ,at eleven o'clock1 ,i attended the consecration of ,st4 ,mary's1 a fine new church on the ,south ,side1 as the street on the opposite shore of the harbor is called4 ,as ,i walked across the bridge1 conducting to that side1 the sacred edifice1 together with other buildings in the neighborhood1 adorned with numerous ,english flags1 presented1 in contrast with the craggy mountain above1 a lively and picturesque appearance4 ,i may mention1 by the way1 that ,st4 ,johns might well be denominated the city of flags4 ,they are flying everywhere thick as butterflies and poppies in a ,yankee garden4 ,i was made acquainted with a number of clergymen1 some of them ,cambridge and ,oxford men1 and invited to take a part in the services4 ,the sermon1 preached by ,archdeacon ,lower1 was remarkable for its plainness1 simplicity and earnestness1 a characteristic of all the sermons ,i have heard from the clergy of ,bishop ,field1 himself a preacher of singular simplicity and earnestness4 ,i could not avoid drawing the contrast between the simple1 practical character of this gospel preaching by accomplished scholars1 and the florid1 pompous style of many half-educated men in my own country4 ,while the latter may1 at times1 stir a popular audience more sensibly with the fire that crackles among their brushwood of words1 the former are infinitely superior as sound1 healthy1 evangelical teachers4 ,on my return to the inn1 ,i found ,c---- in his room1 busily painting a duplicate of the berg of ,torbay4 ,soon after dinner we set off1 in company with ,mr4 ,shea1 for ,petty ,harbor1 a small fishing port1 nine or ten miles to the south4 ,the road--one of the finest ,i ever saw1 an old-fashioned ,english gravel road1 smooth and hard almost as iron1 a very luxury for the wheels of a springless wagon--keeps up the bank of a small river1 a good-sized trout stream1 flowing from the inland valley into the harbor of ,st4 ,johns4 ,contrasted with the bold regions that front the ocean1 these valleys are soft and fertile4 ,we passed smooth meadows1 and sloping plough-lands1 and green pastures1 and houses peeping out of pretty groves4 ,one might have called it a ,canadian or ,new ,hampshire vale4 ,at no great distance from the town1 we crossed the stream over such a bridge as one would be glad to find more frequently upon the streams at home1 and gradually ascended to a shrubby1 sterile country1 with broad views inland4 ,from the long1 low hills of the western horizon1 at no great distance1 ,mr4 ,shea informed us that there were prospects of ,trinity ,bay1 of great beauty4 ,our road1 at length1 carried us up among the bleak coast hills1 winding among them in a most agreeable manner1 and bringing to view numbers of small lakes1 liquid gems set in black and craggy banks1 and which are all to be united by cuttings through the rocks1 and then conducted to ,st4 ,johns1 thus forming one of the completest reservoirs4 ,the flowers by the wayside1 mostly small and pale1 touched the air with delicate perfume4 ,i looked for the bees1 but there were none abroad2 neither was there to be heard the hum of insects nor warbling of birds4 ,now and then a lonely bird piped a feeble strain4 ,we continued winding among the thinly-wooded hills1 our wheels ringing along the narrow gravel road for an hour4 ,at last we reached the height of land1 and overlooked the ocean4 ,here we rested a few moments1 rose from the seats1 and looked around upon the majestic scene4 ,far out upon the blue were many sails1 white in the bright sunshine as the wings of doves4 ,the fishing boats1 little schooners with raking masts1 which swarm in these seas1 were scudding under their tan-colored canvas1 in all directions1 looking like so many winged flies far down upon the spangled plain1 a most lively and agreeable contrast to the desolate highlands1 where you behold no dwelling1 or field1 or sign of human work1 except the road1 which1 ,i cannot help repeating1 lies among the rough hills1 and rocky masses1 as cleanly cut1 and smooth as a road in a gentleman's park4 ,what a token of greatness and refinement is the perfect road6 ,no nation makes such roads as these1 in a land bristling with rugged difficulties1 that has not wound its way up to the summit of power and cultivation4 ,the savage contents himself with a path that is engineered and beaten by the wild beast4 ,the praise which an ,american1 used to the rough roads of home1 is continually disposed to lavish upon these admirable ,english roads of rugged ,newfoundland1 must by no manner of means be shared by the carriages that travel them1 things at least one hundred years behind the time4 ,such vehicles1 on such roads1 fit about as well as a horseman on one of our city avenues dressed in the iron clothes of a crusader4 ,no ,yankee rides in them who does not have his laugh at their absurd strength and clumsiness4 ,they are evidently intended to descend from father to son2 and they are just as certain to do it as they are to descend the hills1 from which no common horse and harness can prevent them1 when tolerably loaded4 ,if the intelligence which designs1 and executes1 and orders these wagons about1 was not ,british intelligence1 one would not have a word to say4 ,as it is1 a little ridicule is at least an innocent pastime4 ,take off the box1 the pleasure-box1 and put upon the stalwart machine anything you choose1 stones1 saw-logs1 fire-engine1 cannon1 and all will go safely4 ,when you return1 put on your pleasure-box1 again1 and you are ready for an airing1 wife and daughters4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,petty ,,harbor4--,,the ,,mountain ,,river4--,,cod-,,liver ,,oil4--,,the ,,evening ,,ride ,,back ,,to ,,st4 ,,johns4 ,,to venture a geological remark3 ,all these coast highlands correspond with the summits of the ,alleghenies1 and with those regions of the ,cordilleras1 ,c---- tells me1 which are just below the snow-line4 ,from the sea-line up to the peak1 they correspond with our mountains above the upper belt of woods4 ,their icy pinnacles and eternal snows are floating below in the form of icebergs4 ,imagine all the mid-mountain region in the deep1 and you have the ,andes here4 ,we descended in a zigzag way into a deep gorge1 one of those cuts through the shore mountains from inland regions to the sea1 which occasionally become fiords or narrow bays4 ,along the rocky steps1 resembling galleries1 were patches of grass and beds of flowering mosses1 with springs bubbling up in the spongy turf1 and spinning themselves out into snowy threads from the points and edges of the crags4 ,at the bottom is the little village of ,petty ,harbor1 where the river1 a roaring torrent1 meets the salt tide4 ,we alighted at a cottage1 ,swiss-like among the rocks1 before we were quite down1 and were pleased to hear ,mr4 ,shea1 whose guests we were1 making arrangements with a nice-looking woman for an abundant supper1 on our return4 ,mr4 ,s41 in company with several persons who now joined us from ,st4 ,johns1 then proceeded to show us the lions of the place1 or lion rather1 for every thing and everybody are run up into1 and knit into one body1 the fishery4 ,in the first place1 we were struck with the general appearance of things4 ,the fishing flakes completely floor the river1 and ascend in terraces for a short distance up the sides of the vale4 ,beneath these wide1 evergreen floors1 upon which was fish in all states1 fresh from the knife1 and dry enough for packing1 ran the river1 a brawling stream at low tide1 and deeper1 silent water when the tide was in4 ,we could look up the dark stream1 and see it dancing in the mountain sunshine1 and down through the dim forest of slender props1 and catch glances of the glittering sea4 ,boats were gliding up out of the daylight into the half-darkness1 slowly sculled by brown fishermen1 and freighted with the browner cod1 laced occasionally with a salmon4 ,in this wide and noiseless shade1 these cool1 ,lethean realms1 sitting upon some well-washed boulder1 one might easily forget the heat and uproar of all cities1 and become absorbed in the contemplation of merely present and momentary things4 ,if one doubts it1 let him immerse himself for half an hour1 in those still and gloomy shadows1 strongly seasoned with 8ancient and fish-like smells40 ,should he be able to reflect upon the absent1 or engage his thoughts upon any thing except that which most immediately affects his senses1 he will possess a power of abstraction which a philosopher and a ,brahmin might envy4 ,in the course of our walk we visited a cod-liver oil manufactory4 ,the process of making this article is quite simple4 ,the livers1 fresh from the fish1 and nearly white1 are cleanly washed1 and thrown into a cauldron heated by steam instead of fire1 where they gradually dissolve into oil1 which is dipped out hot and strained1 first through conical felt bags1 and then through those made of white moleskin1 from which it runs pure and sweet as table-oil4 ,wine-glasses were at hand1 from which we tasted it1 and found it entirely agreeable4 ,in this state it is barrelled for market1 and sold at an average price of one dollar and fifty cents per gallon4 ,by what process it is transmuted into that horrid stuff which is sold at a high price1 in small bottles1 perhaps the druggist can inform us4 ,when ,i mentioned the character of cod-liver oil in ,new ,york1 a gentleman present1 qualified to decide1 did not hesitate to say that it was adulterated with some cheap1 base oil4 ,near by a fish-house1 there is ordinarily seen a row of hogsheads open to the sun1 and breathing smells that none but a fisherman can abide4 ,a near approach discovers these casks to be filled with cod livers in a state of fermentation4 ,after a few days in the sun1 these corpulent and sweaty vessels yield a rancid1 nauseous fluid1 of a nut-brown hue1 at a much less cost than the refined oil of the manufactory1 and which1 ,i imagine1 must have a flavor not unlike that which the invalid finds lurking in those genteel flasks on the apothecary's shelves4 ,after all1 our common whale-oil1 ,i suspect1 after some cleansing and bleaching1 and slight seasoning with the pure1 is bad enough for sick people4 ,the catch1 as the fisher terms the number of fish taken1 was small that day1 and we encountered1 here and there1 knots of idle men1 smoking1 chewing1 whittling and talking4 ,for the most part1 they were a russet1 tangle-haired and shaggy-bearded set1 shy and grum at first1 but presently talkative enough1 and intelligent upon all matters in their own little world4 ,fish were so glutted with capelin that they would not bite well4 ,the seines did better4 ,among the dwellings that we passed or entered1 was one of a young ,english woman1 of such exceeding neatness1 that the painter could not forget it4 ,that fine-looking1 healthy1 young ,english woman1 with her bit of a house just as neat as wax1 was often spoken of4 ,upon our return to the cottage on the hill-side1 where we at first alighted1 we sat down1 with sharp appetite1 to a supper of fried capelin and cods' tongues1 garnished with cups of excellent tea4 ,we ate and drank with the relish of travellers1 and talked of the continent from ,greenland to ,cape ,horn4 ,after supper1 we climbed out of the valley1 in advance of the wagons and our company1 to an eminence from which ,c---- sketched the surrounding scenery1 more for the sake of comparison with some of his ,andean pencillings than for any thing really new4 ,he remarked that the wild and rocky prospect bore a strong resemblance to the high regions of the ,cordilleras4 ,while he was engaged with the pencil1 ,i scrambled to a high place1 and looked at the ,atlantic1 touched with long shafts of the light and shade of sunset4 ,all arrived at length1 and we were fairly on our way back to ,st4 ,johns4 ,i buttoned my coat tightly1 and wound my cloak around me with a pleasing sense of comfort in the clear and almost wintry air4 ,all talked somewhat loudly1 and in the best possible good humor1 our three wagons keeping close company1 and making a pleasant sound of wheels1 as we ran down our serpentine way among the hills and lakes1 now darkening in the dusk1 and reflecting the colored skies4 ,although there was not a water-fowl in sight1 the words came to memory spontaneously1 and ,i recited them to myself3 8,whither1 midst falling dew1 ,while glow the heavens with the last steps of day1 ,far through their rosy depths dost thou pursue ,thy solitary way80 ,as we approached the town1 we were much amused with some boyish sports of a new kind4 ,we saw what appeared through the darkness to be balls of fire1 chasing each other down the craggy hill-side1 but which turned out to be a company of frolicsome boys with lighted torches1 bounding down the zigzag mountain road4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,the ,,church ,,ship4--,,the ,,hero ,,of ,,kars4--,,the ,,missionary ,,of ,,labrador4 ,,saturday1 ,june #be4 ,this has been a quiet day1 mostly spent in making calls and social visits4 ,at an early hour1 in company with ,mr4 ,newman1 the consul1 we visited the ,church ,ship1 a pretty vessel of not more than sixty tons1 called the ,hawk1 a name suggested by that line in the ,odyssey1 where the poet says1 8the auspicious bird flew under the guidance of ,god40 ,by an ingenious arrangement1 the cabin1 which is a large part of the vessel1 can be changed1 in a few minutes1 from state-rooms into a saloon1 which1 again1 by a slight alteration1 becomes a chapel4 ,in this1 at once home and church1 the ,bishop visits not only the harbors and islands of ,newfoundland and ,labrador1 but the island of ,bermuda4 ,it was the gift of the ,rev4 ,robert ,eden1 a clergyman of ,england1 some twelve years ago1 and has been employed in that benevolent and sacred service ever since1 with the promise of the same for years to come4 ,there are now more than forty settled clergymen and missionaries along those cold and rugged shores1 who are visited from time to time by their ,bishop in this bold little ship1 which ,i shall dismiss for the present1 for the reason that there will be occasion to speak of it again4 ,from the ,bishop's ship we went to his house1 where we had the honor of an introduction to ,general ,williams1 the hero of ,kars1 and to ,colonel ,law1 one of the few now living who distinguished themselves at the battle of ,waterloo4 ,in the presence of one who had mingled in the grand scenes of ,napoleon and the ,duke of ,wellington1 emotions of admiration were spontaneous4 ,the hero of ,kars stands foremost among what are called fine-looking military men1--a tall1 commanding person1 with a most pleasing address4 ,we closed the day with the consul1 who invited to join us the ,rev4 ,george ,hutchinson1 a nephew of the poet ,wordsworth1 and accustomed1 in his youthful days1 to see at his uncle's such literary worthies as ,lamb and ,southey4 ,he talked much of ,hartley ,coleridge1 of whose abilities he had a high opinion4 ,southey1 of all1 seemed to be his admiration4 ,he was1 all in all1 indeed a wonderful man2 a perfect ,hercules in literary labors4 ,a few years ago1 ,mr4 ,hutchinson1 moved by a religious spirit1 was induced to give up a pleasant living in ,dorsetshire1 under the ,malvern ,hills1 and devote himself to the toils and privations of a missionary in ,labrador4 ,upon the death of his mother he went home1 over a year ago1 and became possessed of a small property4 ,he has returned recently1 and is now waiting for an opportunity to get back to ,labrador4 ,this meeting and conversation with the ,rev4 ,george ,hutchinson1 has turned out to be of more than ordinary interest4 ,c---- has determined to hire a vessel for a month1 and set the missionary down in the midst of his people1 without further trouble4 ,we retired1 pleasantly excited with visions of icebergs and northern coast scenery1 and with thoughts of preparation for the voyage4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,sunday ,,evening ,,at ,,the ,,bishop',s4--,,the ,,rev4 ,,mr4 ,,wood',s ,,talk ,,about ,,icebergs4 ,,monday1 ,june #bg4 ,we attended church1 yesterday1 at the cathedral1 where we heard practical sermons and fine congregational singing4 ,the evening was passed at the ,bishop's1 when the conversation was about ,oxford1 and ,keble1 ,english parsonages1 and ,christian art4 ,a few poems were read from ,keble's ,christian ,year1 and commented upon by the ,bishop1 who is a personal friend and admirer of the poet4 ,before the company separated1 all moved into a very beautiful private chapel1 and closed the evening with devotions4 ,this has been a bright day1 and favorable for our preparations4 ,we took tea with the ,consul1 and had the pleasure of meeting the ,rev4 ,mr4 ,wood1 the ,rector of ,st4 ,thomas'1 one of the city churches2 who has true feeling1 and a thorough appreciation of fine scenery1 and whose descriptive abilities are rare4 ,he says that an iceberg is to him the most impressive of all objects4 ,most beautiful in its life and changes1 it is1 next to an earthquake1 most terrible and appalling1 in the moment of its destruction1 to those who may happen to be near it4 ,upon the falling of its peaks and precipices1 waves and thunders carry the intelligence across the waters4 ,lofty as it frequently is1 the head only1 helmeted and plumed with dazzling beauty1 is above the sea4 ,in its solemn march along the blue main1 how it steps upon the high places of the deep1 is all unseen4 ,around its mighty form1 far down its alabaster cliffs and caverns1 no eye plays but that of the imagination4 ,when it pauses in its last repose1 and perishes1 at times2 as quickly as if it were smitten by the lightning1 you may stand in the distance and gaze with awe1 but never draw near to witness the motions and sounds of its dissolution4 ,after tea1 we sat by the windows1 which face the east and command the harbor1 with its grand entrance from the ,atlantic1 and enjoyed the scene1 one of unusual splendor1 every cliff glowing with hues of reddish orange4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,our ,,vessel ,,for ,,labrador4--,,wreck ,,of ,,the ,,argo4--,,the ,,fisherman',s ,,funeral4 ,,wednesday1 ,june #bi4 ,we are far advanced in our preparations for the voyage4 ,yesterday and to-day1 we have been busily engaged1 and now see the way clear for leaving to-morrow morning4 ,bishop ,field1 who1 with many others1 is pleased that ,c---- has volunteered to take ,mr4 ,hutchinson and ,mr4 ,botwood1 his associate1 to ,labrador1 sailed on the visitation of his extended diocese to-day4 ,the ,church ,ship1 which we visited in the morning1 looked1 in her perfect order and neatness1 with her signal guns and her colors flying1 quite like a little man-of-war4 ,we shall follow for awhile in her track1 but with no expectation of seeing her again4 ,allow me now to take you to the wharf1 and show you the craft which ,c---- has selected for his novel1 and somewhat perilous expedition4 ,here she lies1 the ,integrity1 of ,sydney1 ,cape ,breton1 a pink-sterned schooner1 of only sixty-five tons1 but reputed safe and a good sailer4 ,her forecastle contains the skipper and mate1 a young man of twenty-two1 the owner of the vessel1 and three men1 the youngest an overgrown ,scotch lad1 who has been serving1 and will continue to serve us1 in the capacity of cook4 ,her cabin is for ,captain ,knight1 the commander1 pro tem41 with whom you will be made much better acquainted4 ,just forward of the cabin1 in the hold1 there has been a temporary cabin partitioned off1 and furnished with beds1 bedding1 chairs and table2 in short1 with every necessary article for the comfort and convenience of five individuals4 ,in this snug little room1 and in the hold1 laden only with a light stone ballast1 are stores and provisions1 of the very best quality1 for two full months1 wood and water to be taken along shore as need shall require4 ,at ,c----'s sole expense1 and under his control1 this vessel is to cruise for a few weeks in the region of the icebergs1 setting down the missionaries by the way4 ,the sheet anchor and mainstay 7,i begin to speak the language of the mariner7 of our hopes of a pleasant and successful trip1 humanly speaking1 is ,captain ,knight1 a respected citizen of ,st4 ,johns1 and an accomplished sailor1 whom ,c---- has had the good fortune to secure as master1 pilot1 and companion4 ,we have been startled by the intelligence1 that the ,argo1 of the ,galway line of steamers1 from ,new ,york to ,scotland1 is ashore at ,st4 ,shotts1 near ,cape ,race4 ,as usual1 a variety of reports have agitated the community1 and made people look with eagerness for the return of the two small harbor steamers1 which ,mr4 ,shea1 the agent for that line1 dispatched yesterday to the scene of distress4 ,one of the tugs1 the ,blue ,jacket1 has at length arrived with a part of the passengers in sad plight4 ,it is the old story of shipwreck on these rocky coasts4 ,wrapped in fogs1 and borne forward by a powerful current1 the ill-fated ship struck the shore1 a few moments after it was discovered4 ,providentially1 it was calm weather1 and the sea unusually quiet1 or all had perished4 ,as it was1 all went safely to land1 and encamped in the woods4 ,numbers of the passengers1 saddened by the loss of trunks containing clothing and other valuables1 excited and fatigued1 tell bitter stories of carelessness and inefficiency4 ,while1 with a crowd of people1 we were at the pier1 awaiting the arrival of the ,blue ,jacket1 a funeral procession of boats with little white flags1 half-pole1 came slowly rowing in from sea1 and across the harbor1 and landed with the coffin near where we were standing4 ,not only the relatives were dressed in mourning1 but the bearers4 ,there were long flowing weeds of black crape upon all their hats1 and wide white cambric cuffs upon the sleeves of their coats4 ,they were of the fishing class1 from some village up or down the coast1 and conducted matters apparently with more dispatch than mournfulness4 ,a hearse or black carriage1 of very substantial make1 with a high top1 and white fringe or valance depending from its eaves instead of curtains1 was waiting on the wharf1 attended by a man with a flag of white linen attached to his hat4 ,among our last calls to-day1 was one of ceremony upon ,sir ,alexander and ,lady ,bannerman1 from whom we had received an invitation to dine4 ,her ladyship1 a fine-looking person1 of graceful and dignified manners and pleasing conversation1 talked with interest of ,c----'s excursion1 and particularly of that part of it relating to his carrying ,mr4 ,hutchinson to ,labrador4 ,after taking our leave1 we went with ,mr4 ,newman to look after some fireworks1 which his ,excellency has been pleased to order for our amusement at night among the icebergs4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,our ,,first ,,evening ,,at ,,sea4 ,,thursday ,,evening1 ,june #cj4 ,at sea4 ,i am now writing1 for the first time to-day1 by the candles on our table in the main cabin of the ,integrity4 ,we are sailing northward with a fair wind1 but with fog and rather rough water4 ,but let me go back1 and take the day from the beginning1 passing lightly over its labors and vexations4 ,the morning opened upon us brilliantly1 and all were employed about those many little things which only can be done at the last moment4 ,noon came and an early dinner1 before that all were in readiness and aboard4 ,and then1 as if in retaliation for our delay during so many lovely hours1 the wind was not ready1 and so we were obliged to be towed by the ,blue ,jacket quite out into broad water1 where she left us with our colors quivering in the sunshine1 and all our canvas swelling in a mild southerly breeze4 ,the coast scenery1 and the iceberg of ,torbay1 and the last gleams of sunset upon land and ocean1 were the lions of the afternoon4 ,we have taken our first tea1 counting1 with a lad in the charge of ,mr4 ,hutchinson1 six around the table1 and making1 with the crew1 eleven souls1 quite a little congregation1 could all be spared to attend the short morning and evening services4 ,we are just beginning to feel the effects of a small vessel with no lading beyond a light ballast4 ,she rolls excessively1 rises with every swell1 and pitches into the succeeding hollow4 ,this has already begun to disperse our company to their berths1 as the more comfortable place for the random conversation which will close the day4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,icebergs ,,of ,,the ,,open ,,sea4--,,the ,,ocean ,,chase4--,,the ,,retreat ,,to ,,cat ,,harbor4 ,,friday1 ,july #a4 ,the fog is so dense that the rigging drips as if it rained4 ,in fact1 if it be not the finest of all rain1 then it is the thickest of all mists4 ,c---- and ,i are sea-sick1 almost as a matter of course1 and look upon all preparations for breakfast with no peculiar satisfaction4 ,our consolation is1 that we are sailing forward1 although with only very moderate speed4 ,delightful change6 ,it is clearing up4 ,the noonday sun is showering the dark ocean1 here and there1 with the whitest light4 ,and lo6 an iceberg on our left4 ,lo6 an iceberg on our right4 ,an iceberg ahead6 ,yes1 two of them6--four6--five--six6--and there1 a white pinnacle just pricking above the horizon4 ,wonderful to behold1 there are no less than thirteen icebergs in fair view4 ,we run forward1 and then we run aft1 and then to this side1 and that4 ,we lean towards them over the railing1 and spring up into the shrouds1 as if these boyish efforts brought us nearer1 and made them plainer to our delighted eyes4 ,with a quiet energy1 ,c---- betakes himself to painting1 and ,i to my note-book4 ,but can you tell me why ,i pause1 almost put up the pencil1 and pocket the book8 ,i am only a little sea-sick4 ,the cold sweat starts upon the forehead1 and ,i feel pale4 ,we bear away now1 such is the order1 for the largest berg in sight4 ,i freshen again with the growing excitement of this novel chase1 and feel a pleasurable sense of freedom that ,i can never describe4 ,i could bound like a deer1 and shout like the wild ,indian1 for very joy4 ,the vessel seems to sympathize1 and spring forward with new spirit4 ,the words leap out of the memory1 and ,i give them a good strong voice3 8,o'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea1 ,our thoughts as boundless1 and our souls as free40 ,indeed1 there is a hearty pleasure in this freedom of the ocean1 when1 as now with us1 it is 8all before you where to choose40 ,tied to no task1 fettered to no line of voyage1 to no scant time allowanced1 the ship1 the ocean and the day1 are ours4 ,like the poet's river1 that 8windeth at its own sweet will10 our wishes flow down the meandering channel of circumstances1 and we go with the current4 ,and how lovely the prospect as we go6 ,that this is all ,god's own world1 which he holdeth in the hollow of his hand1 is manifest from the impartial bestowal of beauty4 ,no apple1 peach or rose is more within one network of sweet1 living grace1 than the round world4 ,how wonderful and precious a thing must this beauty be1 that it is thus all-pervading1 and universal6 ,here on these bleak and barren shores1 so rocky1 rough and savage1 is a rich and delicate splendor that amazes4 ,the pure azure of the skies1 and the deeply blue waters1 one would think were sufficient for rude and fruitless regions such as these4 ,but look1 how they shine and scintillate6 ,the iron cheeks of yonder headland blush with glory1 and the west is all magnificent4 ,gaze below into the everlasting evening of the deep4 ,glassy1 glittering things1 like chandeliers dispersed1 twinkle in the fluid darkness4 ,the very fishes1 clad in purple and satin1 silvery tissues and cloth-of-gold1 seem to move with colored lights4 ,god hath apparelled all his creatures1 and we call it beauty4 ,as we approach the bergs1 they assume a great variety of forms4 ,indeed1 their changes are quite wonderful4 ,in passing around a single one1 we see as good as ten1 so protean is its character4 ,i know of no object in all nature so marvelously sensitive to a steady gaze4 ,sit motionless1 and look at one1 and1 fixture as it appears1 it has its changes then4 ,it marks with unerring faithfulness every condition of atmosphere1 and every amount of light and shadow4 ,thus manifold complexions tremble over it1 for which the careless observer may see no reason1 and many shapes1 heights and distances swell and shrink it1 move it to and from1 of which the mind may not readily assign a cause4 ,the large iceberg1 for which we bore away this morning1 resembled1 at one moment1 a cluster of ,chinese buildings1 then a ,gothic cathedral1 early style4 ,it was curious to see how all that mimicry of a grand religious pile was soon transmuted into something like the ,coliseum1 its vast interior now a delicate blue1 and then a greenish white4 ,it was only necessary to run on half a mile to find this icy theatre split asunder4 ,an age of ruin appeared to have passed over it1 leaving only the two extremes1 the inner cliffs of one a glistening white1 of the other1 a blue1 soft and airy as the ,july heavens4 ,in the neighborhood1 were numbers of block-like bergs1 which1 when thrown together by our perpetual change of position1 resembled the ruins of a marble city4 ,the play of the light and shadows among its inequalities was charming in the extreme4 ,in the outskirts of this ,palmyra of the waves1 lay a berg closely resembling a huge ship of war1 with the stern submerged1 over which the surf was breaking finely1 while the stem1 sixty or seventy feet aloft1 with what the fancy easily shaped into a majestic figure-head1 looked with fixed serenity over the distant waters4 ,as we ran athwart the bow1 it changed instantly into the appearance of some gigantic sculpture1 with broad surfaces as smooth as polished ivory1 and with salient points cut with wonderful perfection4 ,the dashing of the waves sounded like the dashing at the foot of rocky cliffs1 indicative of the mass of ice below the surface4 ,as the afternoon advances the breeze strengthens1 blowing sharply off to sea4 ,we have the most brilliant sunshine1 with a clear1 cold1 exhilarating air4 ,it very nearly dispels all the nausea caused by this excessive rolling4 ,we are now beating up from the east toward the land1 and passing several of the bergs1 in the chase of which we have spent so many joyous hours4 ,every few minutes we have new forms and new effects1 new thoughts and fresh emotions4 ,the grand ruins of the ,oriental deserts1 hunted on the fleetest coursers1 would awaken1 ,i fancy1 kindred feelings4 ,full of shadowy sublimities are these great broken masses1 as we sweep around them1 fall away1 tack and return again4 ,i never could have felt1 and so must not think of making others feel through the medium of language1 the possibility of being so deceived in respect of the bulk of these islands-of-ice1 as our sailors always call them4 ,what seems1 in the distance1 a mere piece of ice1 of good snow-bank size only1 is really a mass of such dimensions as to require you to look up to it1 as you sail around it1 and feel1 as you gaze1 a sense of grandeur4 ,what you might suppose could be run down as easily as a pile of light cotton1 would wreck the proudest clipper as effectually as the immovable adamant4 ,between the great northern current1 and the breeze which plumes the innumerable waves with sparkling white1 our course has become rather more tortuous and rough than is agreeable to landsmen who have only come abroad upon the deep for pleasure and instruction4 ,the painter has cleaned his pallet1 wiped his brushes1 shut his painting-box1 and gone below4 ,i am sitting here1 near the helm1 close upon the deck1 screened from the spray that occasionally flies over1 heavily coated1 and cold at that1 making some almost illegible notes4 ,life1 it is often said1 is a stormy ocean4 ,it is on the ocean1 certainly1 that one feels the whole force of the comparison4 ,the wind1 which is blowing strongly1 is getting into the north1 dead ahead1 and sweeping us away upon our back track4 ,we are too lightly ballasted to tack with success1 and hold our own4 ,the bergs are retiring1 and appear like ruins and broken columns4 ,we are now fairly on the retreat1 and flying under reefed sails to a little bay1 called ,cat ,harbor4 ,all aloft has the tightness and the ring of drums1 and the whistling of a hundred fifes4 ,the voice of the master is quick1 and to the point1 and the motions and the footsteps of the men1 rapid4 ,on our bows are the explosion and the shock of swells1 the resounding knocks and calls of old ,neptune1 and upon the deck such showers of his most brilliant flowers and bouquets as ,i feel in no haste to gather4 ,the sea-fowl whirl in the gale like loose plumes and papers1 pouring out their wild complaints as they pass4 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,cat ,,harbor4--,,evening ,,service ,,in ,,church4--,,the ,,fisherman',s ,,fire4--,,the ,,return ,,at ,,midnight4 ,,at eight o'clock1 our brave little pink-stern was lying at anchor in her haven1 as quietly as a babe in its cradle1 with the wind piping a pleasant lullaby in the rigging1 and the roar of the ocean nearly lost in the distance4 ,a few rude erections along the rocky shore1 with a small church1 a store and warehouse1 compose the town of ,cat ,harbor1 the life of which seems to be the water-craft busy in the one common employment1 some returning with the catch of the day1 others going for the catch of the night4 ,while ,c---- was painting a sketch of the scene1 the sun vanished behind the purple inland hills1 with unusual splendor1 and left the distant icebergs in such a white 8as no fuller on earth can white them40 ,after dinner1 notwithstanding the lateness of the hour1 ,mr4 ,hutchinson1 who knew that the clergyman in charge was absent1 resolved to go ashore1 and invite the people to attend divine service4 ,as soon as we were landed1 he left us to make our way to the church1 at our leisure1 while he ran from house to house to announce himself1 and to give notice of the intended services4 ,our path1 as usual in these coast hamlets1 went in zigzag1 serpentine ways1 among evergreen fishing-bowers1 and many-legged flakes and huts1 and oddly-fenced potato-patches4 ,in the marshy field around the church1 we had some time to amuse ourselves with gathering slender bulrushes tipped with plumes of whitest down4 ,they were sprinkled all abroad like snow-flakes over the dusky green ground1 and we ran about with the eagerness of boys1 selecting the prettiest as specimens for home4 ,twilight was already close upon the darkness4 ,we turned from the chase of our thistle-down toys1 and gazed upon the solemn magnificence around us--the dark and lonesome land--the bay1 reflecting the colored heavens--the warm orange fading out into the cool pearl1 and the pearl finally lost in the broad blue above4 ,it was fully candle-light when the congregation1 about forty1 assembled1 and the service began4 ,the missionary preached extempore a practical sermon adapted to his hearers1 and we sang1 to the tune of ,old ,hundred1 the ,one ,hundredth ,psalm1 making the dimly-lighted sanctuary ring again4 ,after church1 our party were invited to warm at one of the houses1 which we did most effectually before a broad and roaring fire1 while mine host recounted the toil and the pleasure of getting winter wood over the deep snows with his team of dogs1 and the more perilous and exciting labors of the fish-harvest1 upon which life and all depend4 ,at the mention of the puff-pig1 the local name for the common porpoise1 we indulged ourselves in a childish laugh4 ,a more ludicrous1 and at the same time a more descriptive name could not be hit upon4 ,during the half-hour around the exhilarating ,july fire1 there dropped in1 one by one1 a room-full1 curious to see and hear the strangers from ,st4 ,johns and ,america1 as the ,united ,states are often called4 ,we parted with a general shaking of hands1 and plenty of good wishes1 among which was one1 8that we might have many igh hicebergs40 ,some half dozen attended us to the shore1 and brought us off in handsome style over the calm and phosphorescent waters4 ,at every dip of the oars it was like unraking the sparkling embers1 so brilliant was that beautiful light of the sea4 ,the boatmen called it the burning of the water4 8,when the water burnt10 they said1 8it was a sure sign of south wind and a plenty of fish40 ,it was one of those still and starry nights which require only an incident or so to make them too beautiful ever to be forgotten4 ,those incidents were now present1 in a peculiarly plaintive murmur of the ocean1 the kindling waves1 and a delicate play of the ,aurora ,borealis4 ,when we reached our vessel it was almost midnight1 and still there was sweet daylight in the far north-west1 moving along the circle of the northern horizon to brighten into morning before we were half through our light and dreamy slumbers4 ,weary and drowsy1 all have crept to their berths2 and ,i will creep into mine when ,i have put the period to the notes of this long and delightful day4 ,i hear the footfalls of the watch on deck4 ,may ,god keep us through the short1 but most solitary night1 and speed us early on our northern voyage6 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,after ,,icebergs ,,again4--,,among ,,the ,,sea-,,fowl4 ,,saturday1 ,july #b4 ,it is five o'clock1 and the morning has kindled in the clouds its brightest fires4 ,we are moving off to sea gracefully before a fair1 light wind4 ,the heart delights in this golden promise of a fine summer day1 and the blue ,atlantic all before us4 ,as the rising sun looks over it1 the glittering waves seem to participate in these joyful emotions4 ,how marvelously beautiful is this vast scene6 ,give me the sea1 ,i say1 now that ,i am on the sea4 ,give me the mountains1 ,i say1 when ,i am on the mountains6 ,henceforth1 when ,i am weary with the task of life1 ,i will cry1 ,give me the mountains and the sea4 ,the rugged islands1 landward1 have only an olive1 not the living green1 and seem never to have rejoiced in the blessing of a tree1 or felt the delicious mercy of a leafy shade4 ,there blow the whales1 and here is the edge of an innumerable multitude of sea-birds feeding upon the capelin1 and flying to the right and left1 thick as grasshoppers1 as we advance among them4 ,poor things1 they are so glutted that they are obliged to disgorge before they can gain the wing1 and many of them merely scramble aside a few yards1 and become the mark of the roguish sailors1 especially of ,sandy1 our young ,scotch cook1 who is in a perfect frolic1 pelting them with stones4 ,they sprinkle the sea by the million1 and present1 with their white breasts and perpetually arching wings1 a lively and novel appearance4 ,on the roll of the swells1 as the sunlight glances on them1 they flash out white like water-lilies4 ,how the pages of a book fail to carry these scenes into the heart6 ,i have been reading of them for years1 and1 as ,i have thought1 reading understandingly and feelingly2 but ,i can now say that ,i have never known1 certainly never felt them until now4 ,the living presence of them has an originality1 a taste and odor for the imagination1 which can never be expressed even by the vivid and sensuous language of the painter1 much less by the more subtle1 intellectual medium of written records4 ,it is so new and fresh to me1 that ,i feel as if none had ever seen this prospect before4 ,old and familiar as these waters are1 ,i am thrilled with emotions1 kindred to those of a discoverer1 and remember and repeat the rhyme of the ,ancient ,mariner3 ,we were the first that ever burst ,into that silent sea4 ,silent sea6 ,this is any thing but that4 ,the surf1 which leaps up with the lightness and rapidity of flames1 for many and many a white mile1 roars among the sharp1 bleak crags of the islands and the coast like mighty cataracts4 ,words of the ,psalmist fall naturally upon the tongue1 and ,i speak them in low tones to myself3 ,voices are heard among them4 ,their sound is gone out into all lands4 8,and so sail we10 this glorious morning1 after the icebergs1 several of which stand sentinel along our eastern horizon2 but we do not turn aside for them1 for the reason that we confidently look for others more closely on our proper track4 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,notre ,,dame ,,bay4--,,fogo ,,island ,,and ,,the ,,three ,,hundred ,,isles4--,,the ,,freedom ,,of ,,the ,,seas4--,,the ,,iceberg ,,of ,,the ,,sunset1 ,,and ,,the ,,flight ,,into ,,twillingate4 ,,after noon1 with the faintest breeze1 and the sea like a flowing mirror4 ,we have sailed by the most eastern promontories1 ,cape ,bonavista and ,cape ,freels1 and have now arrived at a point where the coast falls off far to the west1 and gives place to ,notre ,dame ,bay1 the great ,archipelago of ,newfoundland1 of which there is comparatively little known4 ,our true course is nearly north1 and along the eastern or ,atlantic side of ,fogo1 which is now before us1 the first and largest of some three hundred islands4 ,for the sake of the romantic scenery1 we conclude to take the inside route4 ,from the shores of ,fogo1 which are broken1 and exceedingly picturesque further on1 as ,captain ,knight informs us1 the land rises into moderate hills1 thinly wooded with evergreens1 with here and there a little farm and dwelling4 ,perhaps there are twenty rural smokes in sight and a spire or two4 ,under the full-blown summer all looks pleasant and inviting4 ,what will not the glorious sunshine bless and beautify8 ,a dark and dusty garret wakes up to life and brightness1 give it an open window and the morning sun4 ,the western headlands of ,fogo are exceedingly attractive1 lofty1 finely broken1 of a red and purplish brown1 tinted here and there with pale green4 ,the painter is busy with his colors4 ,as we pass the bold prominences and deep1 narrow bays or fiords1 they are continually changing and surprising us with a new scenery4 ,and now the great sea-wall1 on our right1 opens and discloses the harbor and village of ,fogo1 the chief place of the island1 gleaming in the setting sun as if there were flames shining through the windows4 ,looking to the left1 all the western region is one fine gean1 a sea filled with a multitude of isles1 of manifold forms and sizes1 and of every height1 from mountain pyramids and crested ridges down to rounded knolls and tables1 rocky ruins split and shattered1 giant slabs sliding edgewise into the deep1 columns and grotesque masses ruffled with curling surf--the ,cyclades of the west4 ,i climb the shrouds1 and behold fields and lanes of water1 an endless and beautiful network1 a little ,switzerland with her vales and gorges filled with the purple sea4 ,after dinner1 and nearly sunset4 ,we are breaking away from the isles into the open ,atlantic1 bearing northerly for ,cape ,st4 ,john1 where ,captain ,knight promises the very finest coast scenery4 ,far away on the blue1 floats a solitary pyramid of ice1 while a few miles to the east of us there stands the image of some grand ,capitol1 in shining marble4 ,looking back upon the isles1 as they retire in the south and west1 with the hues of sunset upon their green and cloud-like blue1 we behold1 the painter tells me1 a likeness to some ,west-,indian views4 ,once again the breeze swells every sail1 and we are speeding forward after the icebergs4 ,all goes merrily4 ,it sings and cracks aloft1 and roars around the prow4 ,we speed onward4 ,the little ship1 like a very falcon1 flies down the wind after the game1 and promises to reach it by the last of daylight4 ,a long line of gilding tracks the violet sea1 and expands in a lake of dazzling brightness under the sun4 ,beneath all this press of sail1 we ride on fast and steadily1 as a car over the prairies4 ,we seem to be all alive4 ,this is fine1 inexpressibly fine6 ,this is freedom6 ,i lean forward and look over the bow1 and1 like a rider in a race1 feel a new delight and excitement4 ,wonderful and beautiful6 ,like the ,arab on his sands1 ,i say1 almost involuntarily1 ,god is great6 ,how soft is the feeling of this breeze1 and how balmy is the smell1 8like the smell of ,lebanon10 and yet how powerful to bear us onward6 ,we rise and bow gracefully to the passing swells1 but keep right on4 ,fogo is sinking in the south1 a line of roseate heights1 and fresh ice sparkles like stars on the northern horizon4 ,we dart off a mile or more from our right path in order to bring a small berg between us and the sun1 that we may look into his sunset beauties4 ,a dull cloud1 close down upon the waves1 may defeat this manuvre4 ,we shall conquer yet4 ,there1 he rises from the sea1 a sphinx of pure white against the glowing sky1 and every man aboard is as full of fine excitement as if we were to grapple with1 and chain him4 ,we pass directly under the great face1 the upper line of which overlooks our top-mast4 ,every curve1 swell and depression have the finish of the most exquisite sculpture1 and all drips with silvery water as if newly risen from the deep4 ,in the pure1 white mass there is the suspicion of green4 ,every wave1 by contrast1 and by some optical effect1 nearly black as it approaches1 is instantly changed into the loveliest green as it rolls up to the silvery bright ice4 ,and all the adjacent deep is a luminous pea-green4 ,the eye follows the ice into its awful depths1 and is at once startled and delighted to find that the mighty crystal hangs suspended in a vast transparency1 or floats in an abyss of liquid emerald4 ,we pass on the shadow side1 soft and delicate as satin2 and changeable as costliest silk2 the white1 the dove-color and the green playing into each other with the subtlety and fleetness of an ,aurora-,borealis4 ,as the light streams over and around from the illuminated side1 the entire outline of the berg shines like newly-burnished silver in the blaze of noon4 ,the painter is working with all possible rapidity2 but we pass too quick to harvest all this beauty3 he can only glean some golden straws4 ,a few sharp words from the captain bring the vessel to1 and we pause long enough for some finishing touches4 ,he has them1 and we are off again4 ,an iceberg is an object most difficult to study1 for which many facilities1 much time1 and some danger are indispensable4 ,the voyager1 passing at a safe distance1 really knows little or nothing of one4 ,ten o'clock1 and only twilight4 ,we are now about to put up note-book and painting-box1 and join our ,english companions in a walk up and down our little deck4 ,notwithstanding their familiarity with icebergs1 they appear to enjoy them with as keen a zest as we1 now that they are brought into this familiar contact with them4 ,after the walk1 and by candle-light in the cabin4 ,the wind is strengthening1 and promises a gale4 ,the black and jagged coast of ,twillingate island1 to the south1 frowns upon us1 and the great pyramid berg of sunset awaits us close at hand4 ,for some time past1 it has borne the appearance of the cathedral of ,milan1 shorn of all its pinnacles1 but it now resumes its pyramidal form1 and towers1 in the dusk of evening1 to a great height4 ,after a brief consultation1 we resolve to slip into the harbor of ,twillingate1 a safe retreat from the coming storm1 and there pass our first ,sunday out of ,st4 ,johns4 ,to dare this precipitous coast1 haunted with icebergs1 and a gale blowing right on1 in so light a craft as ours1 would be rash4 ,much as ,i wish to make the most of our time1 ,i am glad to find that we are making harbor1 and intend to rest1 according to the law4 ,i cannot take my mind's eye from the brilliant spectacle of the waves in conflict with the iceberg4 ,i still hear the surf in the blue chasms4 ,but with all the power of its charge1 it is the merest toy to the great arctic mass1 a playful kitten on the paws of the lion4 ,after ten1 and after prayer4 ,we are rolling most uncomfortably while we are beating towards our anchorage between the headlands of the harbor4 ,it is midnight nearly1 and yet ,i am not in the least sleepy4 ,the day is so lengthy1 and we are so continually stimulated with the grandeur and novelty of these scenes that it is quite troublesome to sleep at all4 ,a few hours of slumber1 so thin that the sounds on deck easily break through and wake the mind1 is about all ,i have4 ,we are coming about1 and roll down almost upon the vessel's side4 ,the sails are loose1 and roar in the breeze4 ,the anchor drops home to its bed4 ,the chain rattles and runs its length4 ,we repose in safe waters1 and ,i turn in thankfully to my berth4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,,the ,,sunday ,,in ,,twillingate4--,,the ,,morning ,,of ,,the ,,fourth4 ,,monday ,,morning1 ,july #d1 #ahei4 ,we were roused from our slumbers very suddenly1 yesterday morning1 by ,mr4 ,hutchinson1 in a loud and cheerful voice1 telling us the pleasing news that the ,church ,ship was at anchor near by1 and that he had exchanged salutations with the ,bishop4 ,his vessel had lost a spar in the same squall that drove us into ,cat ,harbor4 ,to that accident we owed the pleasure of meeting him in ,twillingate1 and of passing a profitable and happy ,lord's day4 ,the wind was blowing a perfect gale1 and roared among the evergreen woods on the surrounding hills4 ,at half-past ten1 the ,bishop's boat glided alongside1 and bore us ashore1 from which we walked past the church1 through the assembling congregation1 to the house of the ,rector1 the ,rev4 ,thomas ,boone1 where we joined the ,bishop and two or three of the leading persons of the island4 ,there were the regular morning and evening services1 and a third service at night1 completed though by good strong daylight4 ,the house was filled1 and the sermons plain and practical1 their burden being repentance1 faith in ,christ1 and obedience to his law4 ,after supper1 and a social hour with the ,rector and his family1 we returned to our vessels respectively1 the north-western sky still white with daylight1 and the thunder of the ocean breaking with impressive grandeur upon the solemn repose1 into which all nature seemed gladly to have fallen after the tempest4 ,i was up this morning at an early hour1 and away upon the hills with ,mr4 ,hutchinson and ,master ,william ,boone1 a fine youth of fifteen1 for our guide and companion4 ,the main object was to get a view of the iceberg of ,saturday evening4 ,to my surprise and disappointment1 the ocean was one spotless blue4 ,the berg had foundered1 or gone off to sea4 ,it was barely possible that it lay behind a lofty headland1 beneath which we passed in making the harbor4 ,to settle a question1 which in some measure involved the pleasure of the day1 we climbed a rocky peak beset with brushwood1 and descried the berg close in upon the headland apparently1 and1 as ,i supposed1 rapidly diminishing1 a lengthy procession of fragments moving up the coast4 ,looking south1 there was unrolled to view1 spread out from east to west1 the splendid island scenery of ,notre ,dame ,bay1 already described4 ,a single reach of water1 with islets and mountainous shores1 had a striking resemblance to ,lake ,george4 ,at eight o'clock1 we were again on board and ready for the boat1 which1 by appointment1 was to take our party to the ,hawk for a farewell breakfast with the ,bishop4 ,it is needless to say that we were most kindly and pleasantly entertained4 ,the ,bishop was pleased to accompany us back to our vessel1 and to give us his parting blessing1 on our own more humble deck4 ,just before sailing1 ,master ,boone came off to us in a boat with a gift of milk and eggs1 and a nice1 fat lamb4 ,by ten o'clock1 both the ,union ,jack and the ,stars and ,stripes were waving on high in a south-west breeze1 and we glided through the narrows toward the open sea1 the chasms of the precipices heavily charged with the last winter's snow4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,the ,,iceberg ,,of ,,twillingate4 ,,twelve o'clock4 ,the day we celebrate4 ,three cheers6 ,how we are after the iceberg4 ,upon getting near1 we find it grounded in fifty fathoms of water1 apparently storm-worn1 and much the worse for the terrible buffeting of the recent gale4 ,masses of the huge1 glassy precipices seem to have been blasted off within the last hour1 and gone away in a lengthy line of white fragments upon the mighty stream4 ,we are now bearing down upon it1 under full sail1 intending to pass close under it4 ,our good angels bear us company as we pass4 ,what an exquisite specimen of nature's handiwork it looks to be1 in the blaze of noon6 ,it shines like polished silver dripping with dews4 ,the painter is all ready with his colors1 having sketched the outlines with lead4 ,the water streams down in all directions in little rills and falls1 glistening in the light like molten glass4 ,veins of gem-like transparency1 blue as sapphire1 obliquely cross the opaque white of the prodigious mass1 the precious beauty of which no language can picture4 ,fragments lie upon the slopes1 like bowlders1 ready to be dislodged at any moment1 and launched into the waves4 ,now we dash across his cool shadow1 and take his breath4 ,there looks to be the permanency of adamant1 while in reality all is perishable as a cloud1 and charged with awful peril4 ,imagine the impressive grandeur and terrific character of cliffs1 broad and lofty cliffs1 at once so solid1 and yet so liable at any moment to burst asunder into countless pieces4 ,we all know the danger1 and ,i confess that ,i feel it painfully1 and wish ourselves at a safe distance4 ,the wind increases1 and all is alive on deck4 ,to my relief1 we have fallen off to leeward beyond all harm4 ,but we are on the back track1 and mean to take him again1 and take the risques also of his terrible1 but very beautiful presence4 ,now we run4 ,if he were a hostile castle1 he would open upon us his big guns1 at this instant4 ,bravely and busily the waves beat under the hollow of the long1 straight water-line1 rushing through the low archways with a variety of noises1--roaring1 hissing1 slapping1 cracking1 lashing the icy vaults1 and polishing and mining away with a wild1 joyous energy4 ,poor ,ishmael of the sea6 every hand and every force is against him4 ,if he move1 he dashes a foot against the deep down stones4 ,while he reposes1 the sun pierces his gleaming helmet1 and strikes through the joints of his glassy armor4 ,in the seams and fissures the shadows are the softest blue of the skies1 and as plain and palpable as smoke4 ,it melts at every pore1 and streams as if a perpetually overflowing fountain were upon the summit1 and flashes and scintillates like one vast brilliant4 ,prongs and reefs of ice jutting from the body of the berg below1 and over which we pass1 give the water that emerald clearness so lovely to the eye1 and open to the view something like the fanciful sea-green caves4 ,we now lie to1 under the lee side1 fearfully close1 it seems to me1 when ,i recollect the warning of the ,bishop1 never1 on any account1 to venture near an iceberg4 ,its water-line1 under which the waves disappear in a lengthy1 piazza-like cavern1 with explosive sounds1 is certainly a remarkable feature4 ,occasional glimpses unfold the polish1 the colors1 and the graceful winding of sea-shells4 ,a strong current in connection with the wind forces us1 ,i am glad to say1 to a more safe and comfortable distance4 ,the last ten minutes has given us a startling illustration of the dangers of which we have been forewarned3 a crack like a field-piece was followed by the falling of ice1 on the opposite side of the berg1 attended with a sullen roar4 ,we round to1 and take the breeze in our faces4 ,the ice is up the wind1 square before us1 and we must after it by a tack or two4 ,the stars and stripes yet float aloft1 and seem to tremble with delight as we sport through these splendid hours of ,freedom's holiday4 ,the berg with its dazzling white1 and dove-colored shadows1--the electric breeze1--the dark sea with its draperies of sparkling foam1 north1 east1 south1 out to the pure azure of the encircling sky1--the sunshine1 that bright spirit and ceaseless miracle of the firmament1--the white-winged vessel boxing the billow1 now rolling on black and cloud-like1 now falling off with the spotless purity of a snow-drift1--the battle of the surges and the solid cliffs1 all conspire to enliven and excite4 ,while the painter is busy1 overlooked by ,mr4 ,hutchinson1 and ,i lean over the bow and scribble in my note-book1 a sailor comes forward and gazes upon the iceberg as if he1 too1 was looking at something new4 ,he has passed them by1 time out of mind1 either idly or with dislike1 as things to be shunned1 and not to be looked back at when safely weathered4 ,now that his attention is called1 he finds that this useless mass1 tumbling about in the path of mariners1 is truly a most wonderful creation4 ,like all the larger structures of nature1 these crystalline vessels are freighted with ,god's power and glory1 and must be reverently and thoughtfully studied1 to 8see into the life of them40 ,the common clouds1 which unnoticed drop their shadows upon our dwellings1 and spot the landscape1 are found to be wonderful by those alone who watch them patiently and thoughtfully4 8,the witchery of the soft blue sky did never melt into the poet's heart2 he never felt the witchery of the soft blue sky0 but from silent1 loving study4 ,captain ,knight backs the sails1 and we hold on near enough to the ice to see the zone of emerald water1 a fearfully close proximity4 ,look up to those massy folds and wreaths of icy drapery1 all flashing in the sun6 ,see that gigantic wing1 not unlike the pictured wings of angels1 unfolded from one of the vast shoulders1 and spread upon the high air4 ,as the wind sweeps over and falls upon us1 we feel an icy chilliness4 ,beyond a very short distance1 however1 we are unable to perceive the smallest influence4 ,we are now to the leeward1 half a mile or so1 and are watching the ,captain1 who has gone with the boat and a couple of men to gather ice out of the drift1 which stretches from the berg in a broken line for two miles or more4 ,portions of this have fallen within the last hour1 keeping up a kind of artillery discharge1 very agreeable to hear at this distance1 and quite in harmony with the day at home4 ,they have struck the ice1 a mile off1 and the chips sparkle in the sunshine as they ply the axe4 ,as they return1 we drop down the wind to meet them4 ,here they come with a cart-load of the real arctic alabaster1 the very same1 ,i have no question1 that hung an hour ago as one of the shining crags of the lofty ice-cliff4 ,and now1 with all sail spread1 and a spirited breeze1 away to the north-west for ,cape ,st4 ,john4 ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,,the ,,freedom ,,of ,,the ,,seas ,,once ,,more4--,a ,,bumper ,,to ,,the ,,queen ,,and ,,president4 ,,the waves are crisp with a snowy mane1 and the rocky shores of ,twillingate are draped with splendid lights and shadows4 ,while the seams and surfaces of the cliffs are strikingly plain in the sunlight1 they are dark as caverns in the shade4 ,this gives the coast a wonderfully broken1 wild1 and picturesque look4 ,once more the sea 8is all before us where to choose40 ,the joy of this freedom is utterly inexpressible1 although1 in consideration of the day1 we--we ,yankees--occasionally hurra right heartily4 ,but no words can do justice to the delightful emotions of moments such as these4 8,messmates1 hear a brother sailor sing the dangers of the sea10 runs the old song4 ,none that ,i have ever heard or read express at all the real pleasure of its freedom4 ,the freedom of the seas6 ,if any great city council would do a man of feeling a noble pleasure1 let them vote him that4 ,a lonely isle of crystalline brightness1 all the way from ,melville ,bay1 most likely1 gleams in the north-east4 ,pale and solitary1 like some marble mausoleum1 the iceberg of ,twillingate stands off in the southern waters4 ,after all1 how feeble is man in the presence of these arctic wonders6 ,with all his skill1 intelligence and power1 he passes1 either on the sunny or the shady side1 closely at his peril1 only in safety at a distance too great to satisfy his curiosity1 and gazes at their greatness and their splendor1 and thinks and feels1 records his thoughts and feelings1 draws their figure and paints their complexion1 but may no more lay his hand upon them than the ,jew of old might lay his hand upon the ark of the covenant4 ,he may do it and live1 do it twice or thrice1 and then he may perish for his temerity4 ,there now reposes1 amid the currents and billows of the ocean1 the huge1 polar structure1 which has been to us an object of the liveliest interest and wonder2 its bright foundations fifty fathoms in the deep2 an erection suggestive of the skill and strength of the ,creator2 with a mystery enveloping its story1 its conception1 birth and growth1 its native land1 the hour of its departure1 its strange and labyrinthine voyage4 ,while the body of this building-of-the-elements sleeps below1 and only its gables and towers glow and melt in the brightness of these summer days1 yet is it as dissolvable as the clouds from which it originally fell4 ,it is but the clouds condensed and crystallized4 ,a column of vapor1 mainly invisible1 perpetually ascends into its native heavens1 while the atmosphere1 and the warm1 briny currents melt and wear1 at every imaginable point of the vast surface4 ,pass a few sunny weeks1 and all will be melted1 and1 like a snow-flake1 lost in the immensity of waters4 ,still the flags wave above4 ,we fill our glasses with iceberg-water1 and drink with cheers to the ,queen and ,president4 ,as the breeze dies away in the long1 long afternoon1 and we roll lazily on the glassy swells1 the painter and ,i1 the poorest of sailors1 lapse into sea-sickness1 and go below4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,,gull ,,island4--,,the ,,icebergs ,,of ,,cape ,,st4 ,,john4 ,,tuesday1 ,july #e4 ,off ,cape ,st4 ,john1 with fog and head winds4 ,we are weary of this fruitless beating about1 and resolve to put into smooth water for the sake of relief from sea-sickness4 ,while our ,english guests seem to enjoy the breakfast1 we have gone no further than to sip a little tea1 take a few turns on deck in the chilly morning air1 and return to the cabin1 where ,i pencil these notes4 ,there is a dome-shaped berg before us in the mist1 but not of sufficient beauty in the dull gray atmosphere to attract attention4 ,exclamations of our friends on deck have brought me up to look at the ice as we pass it1 distant1 it may be1 five hundred yards4 ,it bears a strange resemblance to a balloon lying on its side in a collapsed condition4 ,it has recently undergone some heavy disruptions1 and rolled so far over as to bring its late water-line1 a deep and polished fissure1 nearly across the top of it4 ,there is a promise of clear weather4 ,the clouds1 to our delight1 are breaking1 and giving us peeps of the sunny azure far above4 ,the ,cape is in full view1 a promontory of shaggy precipices1 suggestive of all the fiends of ,pandemonium1 rather than the lovely ,apostle1 whose name has been gibbeted on the black and dismal crags4 ,the salt of that saintly name cannot save it4 ,nay1 it is better fitted to spoil the saint4 ,cape ,st4 ,john6 ,better1 ,cape 8,moloch1 ,horrid ,king10 or some other demon of those that figure in the dark ,miltonic scenes4 ,it is terribly awful and impressive4 ,our lamb1 poor innocent1 seems to feel lonely under the frown of a coast so inhospitable and savage1 and comes bleating around us as if for sympathy4 ,the wind is cold and bracing1 sweeping alike the sea and the sky of all fog and clouds1 and driving us to heavy winter clothing4 ,as we bear down toward the ,cape1 we pass ,gull ,isle1 a mere pile of naked rocks delicately wreathed with lace-like mists4 ,imagine the last hundred feet of ,corway ,peak1 the very finest of the ,new ,hampshire mountain tops1 pricking above the waves1 and you will see this little outpost and breakwater of ,cape ,st4 ,john4 ,all things have their uses4 ,even this bone of the earth1 picked of all vegetable growth and beauty1 and flung into the deep1 has the marrow of goodness in it to a degree that invites a multitude of ,god's fair creatures to make it their estate and dwelling-place4 ,gulls with cimetar-like pinions1 cut and slash the air in all directions4 ,pretty little sea-pigeons fly to and fro1 flying off with whistling wings in straight lines1 and flying back1 full of news1 and full of alarm4 ,a grand iceberg is before us1 remarkable1 in this particular light1 for its pure1 white surface4 ,a snow-drift1 with its icy enamel1 after a silver thaw1 might be taken as a model of its complexion4 ,this is a berg evidently of more varied fortunes than any we have yet seen4 ,it is crossed and recrossed with old water-lines1 every one of which is cut at right angles with its own system of lines1 formed by the perpendicular dripping4 ,it is ploughed and fluted and scratched deeply in all possible directions4 ,at this very moment a new system of lines is rapidly forming by the copiously descending drip1 over-streaming all those made when the berg had other perpendiculars4 ,any large fall of ice1 for example1 from the opposite side1 would bow the berg toward us1 sinking the present sea-line on this side1 and lifting it on the other4 ,in nearly every case the berg1 when it rolls1 loses its old horizontal position1 and settles in a new one4 ,immediately a new horizon-line1 if it may so be called1 with its countless vertical ones1 of course1 instantly commences forming1 to be followed by a similar process1 at each successive roll of the berg1 unto the end4 ,there are draperies of white sea-shell-like ice1 with streaks of shadow in their great folds1 which rival the softest azure4 ,indicative of the projections of the submarine ice1 the light-green water extends out in long1 radiating points1 a kind of emerald spangle1 with its bright central diamond on the purple sea4 ,it is a wonderfully magnificent sight to see an almost black wave roll against an iceberg1 and instantly change in its entire length1 hundreds of feet1 into that delicate green4 ,where the swell strikes obliquely1 it reaches high1 and runs along the face1 sweeping like a satellite of loveliness in merry revolutions round its glittering orb4 ,like cumulous clouds1 icebergs are perpetually mimicking the human face4 ,this fine crystal creature1 by a change in our position1 becomes a gigantic bust of poet or philosopher1 leaning back and gazing with a fixed placidity into the skies4 ,in the brilliant noon1 portions of it glisten like a glassy waterfall4 ,the cold1 dead white1 the subtle greens1 the blues1 shadows of the softest slate1 all contrast with the flashing brightness in a way most exquisite to behold4 ,true to all the forms of nature that swell to the sublime1 an iceberg grows upon the mind astonishingly4 ,on the boundless plains of water1 of course1 it is the merest molehill3 in itself1 it has the lonely grandeur of a broad precipice in the mountains4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,no4 #b4 ,a ,,large ,,iceberg ,,in ,,the ,,forenoon ,,light ,,near ,,the ,,integrity ,lith4 of ,sarony ,major ,knapp1 #ddi ,broadway ,,ny4 ,foremost of several bergs1 now hovering about the ,cape1 is one of greater magnitude than any we have previously met4 ,it is1 on this front1 a broad and lofty precipice1 very nearly resembling the finest statue-marble1 newly broken4 ,it is losing its upper crags1 every now and then1 and vibrating very grandly4 ,at short intervals1 we hear sharp reports1 like those of brass ordnance1 followed by the rough1 rumbling crash of the descending ice1 and the dull roar of its final plunge into the ocean4 ,after this awful burial of its dead1 with such grand honors1 a splendid regiment of waves retreats from the mournful scene1 in a series of concentric circles1 rivalling the finest surf that rolls in upon the sand4 ,it is the very flower of the ocean cavalry4 ,under its fierce and brilliant charge1 an ordinary ship's boat would go down1 almost to a certainty4 ,it is what we have been most carefully warned to avoid4 ,this fine iceberg presents1 ,i fancy1 much the same appearance it had in the ,greenland waters4 ,its water-line1 which is the only one visible1 is not less than fifteen feet deep1 and rises and falls1 in its ponderous rockings back and forth1 not more than twenty feet1 so vast the bulk below4 ,i have little doubt that the ,alpine slopes and summits are its primitive surface4 ,,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,,the ,,splendid ,,icebergs ,,of ,,cape ,,st4 ,,john4 ,,we are making a round of calls on all the icebergs of ,cape ,st4 ,john1 painting1 sketching1 and pencilling as we go4 ,our calls are cut short for the want of wind1 and we lie becalmed on the low1 broad swells1 majestically rolling in upon the ,cape1 only a mile to the south-west4 ,captain ,knight is evidently unquiet at this proximity4 ,a powerful current is setting rapidly in1 carrying us over depths too great for our cables1 up to the very cliffs4 ,if the adventurous mariner1 who first sighted this bold and forward headland1 was bent upon christening it by an apostolic name1 why did he not call it ,cape ,st4 ,peter8 ,all in all1 it is certainly the finest coast scenery ,i have ever seen2 and ,captain ,knight assures us it is the very finest on the eastern shore of ,newfoundland4 ,it is a black1 jagged wall1 often four1 and even five hundred feet in height1 with a five-mile front1 and the deep sea close in to the rock1 without a beach1 and almost without a foothold4 ,this stupendous1 natural wharf stretches back into the south-west toward the mainland1 widening very little for twenty miles or more1 dividing the large expanse of ,white ,bay on the west from the larger expanse of ,notre ,dame ,bay on the east and south1 the fine gean1 before mentioned1 with its multitudinous islands1 of which we get not the least notion from any of our popular maps4 ,such is a kind of charcoal sketch of ,cape ,st4 ,john1 toward which1 in spite of all we can yet do1 we are slowly drifting4 ,unless there be power in our boat1 manned by all the crew pulling across the current1 with the ,captain on the bow cracking them up with his fine1 firm voice1 ,i do not see why we are not in the greatest danger of drifting ashore4 ,it is possible that there is a breath of wind under the cliffs1 by which we might escape round into still water4 ,with all the quiet of the ocean1 ,i see the white surf spring up against the precipices4 ,in the strongest gales of the ,atlantic1 the surges here must be perfectly terrific1 and equal to any thing of the kind on the globe4 ,the great ,baffin current1 sweeping past with force and velocity1 makes this a point of singular danger4 ,to be wrecked here1 with all gentleness1 would be pretty sure destruction4 ,in a storm1 the chance of escape would be about the same1 as in the rapids of ,niagara4 ,after all1 there is a fine excitement in this rather perilous play with the sublime and desolate4 ,would any believe it8 ,i am actually sea-sick1 and that in the full enjoyment of this grandeur of adamant and ice4 ,i find ,i am not alone4 ,the painter with his live colors falls to the same level of suffering with the man of the dull lead-pencil and the note-book4 ,a slight breeze has relieved us of all anxiety1 and all necessity of further effort to row out of danger4 ,we are moving perceptibly up the wide current1 and propose to escape to the north as soon as the wind shall favor4 ,we have just passed a fragment of some one of the surrounding icebergs that has amused us4 ,it bore the resemblance of a huge polar bear1 reposing upon the base of an inverted cone with a twist of a sea-shell1 and whirling slowly round and round4 ,the ever-attending green water1 with its aerial clearness1 enabled us to see its spiral folds and horns as they hung suspended in the deep4 ,the bear1 a ten-foot mass in tolerable proportion1 seemed to be regularly beset by a pack of hungry little swells4 ,first1 one would take him on the haunch1 then whip back into the sea over his tail and between his legs4 ,presently a bolder swell would rise and pitch into his back with a ferocity that threatened instant destruction4 ,it only washed his satin fleece the whiter4 ,while ,bruin was turning to look the daring assailant in the face1 the rogue had pitched himself back into his cave4 ,no sooner that1 than a very bull-dog of a billow would attack him in the face4 ,the serenity with which the impertinent assault was borne was complete4 ,it was but a puff of silvery dust1 powdering his mane with fresher brightness4 ,nothing would be left of bull but a little froth of all the foam displayed in the fierce onset4 ,he too would turn and scud into his hiding-place4 ,persistent little waves6 ,after a dash singly1 all around1 upon the common enemy1 as if by some silent agreement under water1 they would all rush on1 at once1 with their loudest roar and shaggiest foam1 and overwhelm poor bear so completely1 that nothing less might be expected than to behold him broken into his four quarters1 and floating helplessly asunder4 ,mistaken spectators6 ,although1 by his momentary rolling and plunging1 he was evidently aroused1 yet neither ,bruin nor his burrow were at all the worse for all the wear and washing4 ,the deep fluting1 the wrinkled folds and cavities1 over and through which the green and silvery water rushed back into the sea1 rivalled the most exquisite sculpture4 ,and nature not only gives her marbles1 with the finest lines1 the most perfect lights and shades1 she colors them also4 ,she is no monochromist1 but polychroic1 imparting such touches of dove-tints1 emerald and azure1 as she bestows upon her gems and her skies4 ,we are bearing up under the big berg as closely as we dare4 ,to our delight1 what we have been wishing1 and watching for1 is actually taking place3 loud explosions with heavy falls of ice1 followed by the cataract-like roar1 and the high1 thin seas1 wheeling away beautifully crested with sparkling foam4 ,if it is possible1 imagine the effect upon the beholder3 ,this precipice of ice1 with tremendous cracking1 is falling toward us with a majestic and awful motion4 ,down sinks the long water-line into the black deep2 down go the porcelain crags1 and galleries of glassy sculptures1 a speechless and awful baptism4 ,now it pauses and returns3 up rise sculptures and crags streaming with the shining1 white brine2 up comes the great1 encircling line1 followed by things new and strange1 crags1 niches1 balconies and caves2 up1 up it rises1 higher and higher still1 crossing the very breast of the grand ice1 and all bathed with rivulets of gleaming foam4 ,over goes the summit1 ridge1 pinnacles and all1 standing off obliquely in the opposite air4 ,now it pauses in its upward roll3 back it comes again1 cracking1 cracking1 cracking1 8groaning out harsh thunder0 as it comes1 and threatening to burst1 like a mighty bomb1 into millions of glittering fragments4 ,the spectacle is terrific and magnificent4 ,emotion is irrepressible1 and peals of wild hurra burst forth from all4 ,the effect of the sky-line of this berg is marvellously beautiful4 ,an overhanging precipice on this side1 and steep slopes on the other1 give a thin and notched ridge1 with an almost knife-like sharpness1 and the transparency and tint of sapphire1 a miracle of beauty along the heights of the dead white ice1 over which the sight darts into the spotless ultramarine of the heavens4 ,on the right and left shoulders of the berg1 the slopes fall off steeply this way1 having the folds and the strange purity peculiar to snow-drifts4 ,one who has dwelt pleasantly upon draperies in marble1--upon those lovely swellings and depressions1--those sweet surfaces and lines of grace and beauty of the human form1 perfected in the works of sculptors1 will appreciate the sentiment of the ices to which ,i point4 ,at the risque of being thought over-sentimental and extravagant1 ,i will say something more of the great iceberg of ,cape ,st4 ,john1 now that we are retiring from it1 and giving it our last look4 ,of all objects an iceberg is in the highest degree multiform in its effects4 ,changeable in its colors as the streamers of the northern sky1 it will also pass from one shape to another with singular rapidity4 ,as we recede1 the upper portions of the solid ice have a light and aerial effect1 a description of which is simply impossible4 ,peaks and spires rise out of the strong and apparently unchanging base with the light activity of flame4 ,a mighty structure on fire1 all in ice6 ,cape ,st4 ,john6--,as we slowly glide away toward the north1 and gaze back upon its everlasting cliffs1 confronted by these wonderful icebergs1 the glorious architecture of the polar night1 ,i think of the apostle's vision of permanent and shining walls1 8the heavenly ,jerusalem10 8the city which hath foundations1 whose builder and maker is ,god40 8,the good south wind0 blows at last with strength1 and we speed on our way over the great ocean1 darkly shining in all its violet beauty4 ,pricking above the horizon1 the peak of a berg sparkles in the glowing daylight of the west like a silvery star4 ,c---- has painted with great effect1 notwithstanding the difficulty of lines and touches from the motion of the vessel4 ,if one is curious about the troubles of painting on a little coaster1 lightly ballasted1 dashing forward frequently under a press of sail1 with a short sea1 ,i would recommend him to a good1 stout swing4 ,while in the enjoyment of his smooth and sickening vibrations1 let him spread his pallet1 arrange his canvas1 and paint a pair of colts at their gambols in some adjacent field4 ,the novelty and grandeur of these ,newfoundland seas and shores have busied the pencil so completely as to exclude much interesting matter1 especially such as ,captain ,knight is continually contributing in his conversation4 ,as we have been1 for some time past1 crossing the fields of the sealer1 and as the ,captain himself has a large experience in that adventurous business1 seals and sealing have legitimately a small place1 at least1 in this recital4 ,,chapter ,,xxviii4 ,,the ,,seal ,,fields4--,,seals ,,and ,,sealing4--,,captain ,,knight',s ,,shipwreck4 ,,the sealers from ,st4 ,johns1 for example1 start upon their northern voyage1 early in ,march1 falling in with both ice and seals very frequently off the ,capes of ,conception and ,trinity ,bays4 ,the ice1 a snowy white1 lies in vast fields upon the ocean1 cracked in all ways1 and broken into cakes or 8pans0 of all shapes and sizes4 ,at one time1 it resembles a boundless pavement dappled with dark water1 into which vessels work their way1 and upon which the seals travel3 at another time1 without the displacement of a block1 this grand pavement of the sea rolls with its billows1 rising and falling with such perfect order1 that the men run along the ridges and down the hollows of the swells in safety4 ,but this order goes into confusion in a storm1 presenting in the succeeding calm a waste of ruins1 masses of ice thrown into a thousand forms4 ,in the long1 starry nights1 or the moonlight1 or in the magic brilliancy of the aurora-borealis1 the splendor of the scene1--dark avenues and parks of sleeping water1 the silent glittering of mimic palaces and temples1 sparkling minarets and towers1 is almost supernatural4 ,as will be seen at once1 both the beauties and the perils incident to the ice1 in calm and tempest1 enter largely into the experience of the sealers4 ,to-night1 their vessel may repose in a fairy land or fairy sea1 of which poets and painters may dream without the least suspicion that any mortal ever beholds the reality1 and to-morrow night1 it may encounter the double dangers of ice and storm4 ,upon the fields just mentioned1 the seals come from the ocean1 in the depth of winter1 and bring forth their young by thousands4 ,there1 while their parents come and go1 the young things lie on the ice1 fattening on their mothers' milk with marvellous rapidity1 helpless and white as lambs1 with expressive eyes almost human1 and with the piteous cries of little children4 ,in ,march1 about as soon as the voyagers can reach them1 they are of suitable age and size for capture1 which is effected by a blow on the head with a club1 a much more compassionate way of killing these poor lambs of the sea than by the gun1 which is much used in taking the old ones4 ,occasionally they are drawn bodily to the vessel1 but usually skinned on the spot1 the fat1 two or three inches deep1 coming off from the tough1 red carcass with the hide1 which1 with several others is made into a bundle1 dragged in by a rope1 and thrown upon deck to cool4 ,after a little1 they are packed away as solidly as possible1 to remain until discharged in port4 ,five1 six1 and seven thousand skins are frequently thus laid down1 loading the vessel to the water's edge4 ,an accident to which the lucky sealer was formerly liable1 was the melting of the fat into oil from the sliding of the skins1 caused by the rolling of the ship in stormy weather4 ,to such an extent was this dissolving process sometimes carried1 as to reduce the cargo to skins and oil1 half filling cabin and forecastle1 driving the crew on deck1 rendering the vessel unmanageable in rough weather1 and requiring it to be abandoned4 ,this is now securely guarded against by numbers of upright posts1 which crib1 and hold the cargo from shifting4 ,several years ago1 ,captain ,knight1 while beset with the kind of ice1 described as so beautiful in the bright nights1 encountered1 with many others1 a terrific gale1 to this day1 a mournful remembrance to many people4 ,if ,i am not mistaken1 some eighty sail were wrecked1 at the time1 along these iron shores4 ,in fact1 very few that were out escaped4 ,several crews left their vessels and fled to land over the rolling ice-fields1 the more prudent way4 ,a forlorn hope was to put to sea1 the course adopted by ,captain ,knight4 ,by skill and coolness he slipped from the teeth of destruction1 and in the face of the tempest escaped into the broad ocean4 ,it was but an escape1 just the next thing to a wreck4 ,one single sea1 the largest he ever experienced in numerous voyages along this dreadful coast1 swept his deck1 and nearly made a wreck of him in a moment1 carrying overboard one man1 nine boats1 every sealing-boat on board1 and every thing else that could be wrenched away4 ,another gigantic roller of the kind would have destroyed him4 ,but he triumphed1 and returned to ,st4 ,johns in time to refit1 and start again4 ,captain ,knight was less fortunate1 no later than last ,april1 when he lost a fine brig with a costly outfit for a sealing voyage1 under the following circumstances3 ,immersed in the densest fog1 and driven by the gale1 he was running down a narrow lane or opening in the ice1 when the shout of breakers ahead1 and the crash of the bows upon a reef1 came in the same moment4 ,instantly1 overboard they sprang1 forty men of them1 and saw their strong and beautiful vessel almost immediately buried in the ocean4 ,there they stood1 on the heaving field of ice1 gazing in mournful silence upon the great1 black billows as they rolled on1 one after another1 bursting in thunder on the sunken cliffs1 a tremendous display of surf where the trembling spars of the brig had disappeared forever4 ,to the west of them were the precipitous shores of ,cape ,bonavista1 lashed by the surge1 and the dizzy roost of wild sea-birds4 ,for this1 the nearest land1 in single file1 with ,captain ,knight at their head1 they commenced at sunset their dreadful1 and almost hopeless march4 ,all night1 without refreshment or rest1 they went stumbling and plunging on their perilous way1 now and then sinking into the slush between the pans or ice-cakes1 and having to be drawn out by their companions4 ,but for their leader and a few bold spirits1 the party would have sunk down with fatigue and despair1 and perished4 ,at daybreak1 they were still on the rolling ice-fields1 beclouded with fog1 and with nothing in prospect but the terrible ,cape and its solitary chance of escape4 ,thirsty1 famished1 and worn down1 they toiled on1 all the morning1 all the forenoon1 all the afternoon1 more and more slowly1 and with increasing silence1 bewildered and lost in the dreadful cloud travelling along parallel with the coast1 and passing the ,cape1 but without knowing it at the time4 ,but for some remarkable interposition of ,divine ,providence1 the approaching sunset would be their last4 ,only the most determined would continue the march into the next night4 ,the worn-out and hopeless ones would drop down singly1 or gather into little groups on the cold ice1 and die4 ,as the ,captain looked back on them1 a drawn-out line of suffering men1 now in the hollow of the waves1 and then crossing the ridge1 the last of them scarcely seen in the mist1 he prayed that ,god would interpose1 and save them4 ,a man who prays in fair weather1 may trust ,god in the storm4 ,so thought ,captain ,knight1 when he thought of home1 and wife and children1 and the wives and the children of his men1 and made his supplication4 ,they had shouted until they were hoarse1 and looked into the endless1 gray cloud until they had no heart for looking any longer4 ,wonderful to tell6 ,just before sundown they came to a vessel4 ,a few rods to the right or to the left1 and they must have missed it1 and been lost4 ,it was owing to this disaster that ,captain ,knight was at leisure in ,st4 ,johns upon our arrival1 and found it agreeable to undertake1 for a few weeks1 our guidance after the icebergs4 ,,chapter ,,xxix4 ,,belle ,,isle ,,and ,,the ,,coast4--,,after-,,dinner ,,discussion4--,,first ,,view ,,of ,,labrador4--,,icebergs4--,,the ,,ocean ,,and ,,the ,,sunset4 ,,wednesday1 ,july #f4 ,after a quiet night1 with a mild and favorable breeze1 the morning opens with the promise of a bright day4 ,our little cloud of sail is all up in the early sunshine1 and moving before the cool south wind steadily forward down the northern sea4 ,brilliantly as the summer sun looks abroad upon the mighty waters1 ,i walk the clean1 wet deck1 in the heaviest winter clothing1 and have that pleasant tingling in the veins which one feels in a brisk walk on a frosty autumnal morning4 ,we are abreast of ,south ,belle ,isle1 high lands fronting the ocean1 with huge precipices1 the fashion of most of the eastern coast of ,newfoundland4 ,with all their sameness1 their rugged grandeur and the ceaseless battle of the waves below make them ever interesting4 ,imagine the ,palisades of the ,hudson1 and the steeper parts of the ,highlands exposed to the open ,atlantic1 and you will have no imperfect picture of these shores4 ,they have no great bank of earth and loose rocks heaped up along their base1 but step at once into the great deep2 so deep that the icebergs1 several of which are in sight1 float close in1 and seem to dare their very crags4 ,afternoon4 ,we have a pleasant custom of coming up1 after dinner1 and eating nuts and fruits on deck4 ,it is one of the merry seasons of the day1 when ,john ,bull and ,jonathan are apt to meet in those pleasant encounters which bring up the past1 and draw rather largely upon the future1 of their history4 ,john is always the greatest1 of course1 and ever will be1 secula seculorum4 ,jonathan1 8considering10 is greater than ,john4 ,to be sure he is thinner1 and eats his dinner in a minute2 but then he has every thing to do1 and the longest roads on earth to travel1 in the shortest time4 ,in fact1 he has many of the roads to make1 and the least help and the shortest purse of any fellow in the world that undertakes and completes grand things4 ,john's first thousand years is behind him2 ,jonathan's1 before him4 ,one's work is done2 the other's begun4 ,john's fine roads were made by his forefathers2 ,jonathan is the forefather himself1 and is making roads for his posterity4 ,in fact1 ,jonathan is a youth only1 and ,john an old man4 ,when the lad gets his growth1 he will be everywhere1 and the old fogy1 by that time1 comparatively nowhere4 ,jonathan insists that he is up earlier in the morning than ,john1 and smarter1 faster1 and more ingenious4 ,he contends that he has seen his worst days1 and ,john his very best4 ,the longer the diverging lines of the dispute continue1 the further they get from any end2 and wind up finally with one general outburst of rhetoric1 distinguished for its noise1 in which each springs up entirely conscious of a perfect victory4 ,in the complicated enjoyment of almonds1 figs1 and victory1 we betake ourselves to reading1 the pencil and the brush4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,no4 #c4 ,,an ,,arched ,,iceberg ,,in ,,the ,,afternoon ,,light ,lith4 of ,sarony ,major ,knapp1 #ddi ,broadway ,,ny4 ,we are coasting along the extreme northern limb of ,newfoundland1 bound with its endless girdle of adamant1 upon which the white lions of old ,neptune are perpetually leaping1 but which they will never wrench away4 ,the snow lies in drifts along the heights1 a novel1 but rather dreary decoration for a summer landscape4 ,between us and the descending sun stands a berg1 church-like in form4 ,the blue shadows in contrast with the pure white1 have a deep1 cloud-like1 and grand appearance4 ,it is certainly a most superb thing1 rising out of the blue-black waves1 now gleaming in the slant sunlight like molten silver4 ,so vast and varied is the scene1 at this moment1 that many pencils and many pens would fail to keep pace with the rapid description of the mind4 ,directly west1 is the ,land's ,end of ,newfoundland1 ,cape ,quirpon--in the seaman's tongue1 ,carpoon1 which we now shoot past4 ,a few miles to the north1 as if it might have been split off from the ,cape1 lies ,belle ,isle4 ,the broad avenue of dark sea1 extending westward between the cape and the island1 opens out into the ,strait of ,belle ,isle1 and carries the eye to the shore of ,labrador1 our first view of that bony and starved hermit of a country4 ,in this skeleton sketch1 as it shows on paper1 there is nothing very remarkable2 but with the flesh and the apparel of nature upon it1 it is more beautiful than language can paint to the reader's eye4 ,the entire east is curtained by one smooth cloud1 of the hue called the ashes-of-roses4 ,full against it1 an iceberg rises from the ocean1 after the figure of a thunderhead1 and of the color of a newly-blown rose of ,damascus--a gorgeous spectacle4 ,the waters have that dark violet1 with a silvery surface1 lucent like the face of a mirror1 and a complexion in the deeps reminding one of the soft1 dusky hues of a ,claude ,lorraine glass4 ,the painter is busy with his colors1 and all are silently opening mind and heart to the universal beauty4 ,we move on over the lovely sea with a quiet gracefulness1 in harmony with the visible scene and with our emotions4 ,we are looking for unusual splendors1 at the approaching sunset4 ,i close the note-book1 and give myself entirely to the enjoyment of the lonely and still magnificence4 ,the book is open to record4 ,the sun on the rugged hills of ,labrador1 a golden dome2 ,belle ,isle1 a rocky1 blue mass1 with a wavy outline1 rising from the purple main pricked with icebergs1 some a pure white1 others flaming in the resplendent sunset like red-hot metal4 ,we are sailing quietly as an eagle on the still air4 ,our ,english friends are heard singing while they walk the deck1 and look off upon the lonesome land where their home is waiting for them4 ,all that we anticipated of the sunset1 or the after-sunset1 is now present4 ,the ocean with its waves of ,tyrian dye laced with silver1 the tinted bergs1 the dark-blue inland hills and brown headlands underlie a sky of unutterable beauty4 ,the west is all one paradise of colors4 ,surely1 nature1 if she follows as a mourner on the footsteps of the fall1 also returns jubilant and glorious to the scenes of ,eden4 ,here1 between the white light of day and the dark of the true evening1 shade and brightness1 like ,jacob and the angel1 now meet and wrestle for the mastery4 ,close down along the gloomy purple of the rugged earth1 beam the brightest lemon hues1 soon deepening into the richest orange1 with scattered tints of new straw1 freshly blown lilacs1 young peas1 pearl and blue intermingled4 ,above are the royal draperies of the twilight skies4 ,clouds in silken threads and skeins2 broad velvet belts and ample folds black as night1 but pierced and steeped and edged with flaming gold1 scarlet and crimson1 crimson deep as blood2 crimson fleeces1 crimson deep as blood2 plumes tinged with pink1 and tipped with fire1 white fire4 ,and all this glory lies sleeping on the shore1 only on the near shore of the great ethereal ocean1 in the depths of which are melted and poured out ruby1 sapphire and emerald1 pearl and gold1 with the living moist blue of human eyes4 ,the painter gazes with speechless1 loving wonder1 and ,i whisper to myself3 ,this is the pathway home to an immortality of bliss and beauty4 ,of all the days in the year1 this may be the birth-day of the ,king-of-day1 and this effulgence an imperial progress through the grand gate of the west4 ,how the soul follows on in quiet joy1 dreaming of lovely ones1 waiting at home1 and lovely ones departed1 waiting with ,christ6 ,here come those wondrous lines of ,goethe1 marching into the memory with glowing pomp3 4 4 4 4 8,the setting ,sun6 ,he bends and sinks--the day is over-lived4 ,yonder he hurries off1 and quickens other life4 ,oh6 that ,i have no wing to lift me from the ground1 to struggle after1 forever after him6 ,i should see1 in everlasting evening beams1 the stilly world at my feet1--every height on fire1--every vale in repose1--the silver brook flowing into golden streams4 ,the rugged mountain1 with all its dark defiles1 would not then break my god-like course4 ,already the sea1 with its heated bays1 opens on my enraptured sight4 ,yet the god seems at last to sink away4 ,but the new impulse wakes4 ,i hurry on to drink his everlasting light1--the day before me and the night behind1--the heavens above1 and under me the waves4 ,a glorious dream6 as it is passing1 he is gone40 4 4 4 4 4 ,here come the last touches of the living coloring1 tinging the purple waves around the vessel4 ,under the icebergs hang their pale and spectral images1 piercing the depths with their mimic spires1 and giving them a lustrous1 arial appearance4 ,the wind is lulling1 and we rise and fall gracefully on the rolling plain4 8,the day is fading into the later twilight1 and the twilight into the solemn darkness40 ,no1 not into darkness2 for in these months1 the faint flame flickering all night above the white ashes of day from the west circling around to the north and east1 the moonlight and the starlight and the northern-light1 all conspire to make the night1 if not 8more beloved than day10 at least very lovely4 ,a gloomy duskiness drapes the cape1 beneath the solitary cliffs of which lies half entombed a shattered iceberg1 a ghostly wreck1 around whose dead1 white ruins the mad surf springs up and flings abroad its ghastly arms4 ,softly comes its sad moaning and blends with the plaintive melodies of the ocean4 ,hark6 a sullen roar booms across the dusky sea--nature's burial service and the funeral guns4 ,a tower of the old iceberg of the cape has tumbled into the billows4 ,we gather presently into the cabin for prayer1 and so the first scene closes on the coast of ,labrador4 ,,chapter ,,xxx4 ,,the ,,midnight ,,look-,,out ,,forward4--,a ,,stormy ,,night4--,,the ,,comedy ,,in ,,the ,,cabin4 ,,past ,midnight4 ,i have been up and watching forward for more than an hour1 roused from my berth by the cry of ice4 ,a large ship1 with a cloud of sail1 passed just across our head1 bound for ,old ,england4 8,that's a happy fellow10 says the man at the helm2 8past the dangers of the ,st4 ,lawrence and the ,straits1 and fairly out to sea40 ,the wind is rising1 and promises a rough time4 8,there is something10 ,i said to myself1 as ,i leaned1 and looked over the bow1 8there is something in all this1 familiar as it is to many1 very grand and awful1 as we rise upon the black seas1 and plunge into the darkness1 rushing on our gloomy1 strange way4 ,we seem to be above the very #8blackness of darkness1' and riding upon the bosom of the night4 ,the sounding foam1 sweeping forward from beneath our bows1 looks like a cloud of supernatural brightness1 its whiteness filled1 as it is1 with the fire and electric scintillations of the sea4 ,one could easily imagine himself sailing on the breeze through the night1 with sparks of lightning and a cloud at his vessel's bow40 ,the wind freshens to a gale nearly1 and all hands are called on deck4 ,we are rolling in a most uncomfortable manner1 and ,i have retreated to my cabin1 and will creep back to my berth4 ,,thursday ,,noon1 ,july #g4 ,a few scrawls of the pencil will serve to give an outline of our experience for the last twelve hours4 ,a dense fog1 high wind and a heavy swell4 ,as a matter of course1 our little ship has been in great commotion1 and we1 miserably sea-sick1 regardless of breakfast1 absent from the cold1 wet deck1 and rolled up below1 dull and speechless in bed4 ,we have been gradually creeping up into the world1 of late1 sipping a little coffee and nibbling at crackers4 ,we are off ,cape ,st4 ,louis1 the most eastern land of the continent4 ,the few turns on deck have sufficiently electrified the brain to enable me to get on thus far with my notes1 and to venture upon a short description of a cabin-scene1 at a very late hour last night4 ,three sides of our cabin1 a room some ten feet by twelve1 and barely six feet under the beams1 are taken up by four roughly-made berths2 one on each side1 and two extending crosswise1 with a space between them1 fitted up with shelves1 and used for the flour-barrel1 and as a cupboard4 ,beneath the berths are trunks1 tubs1 bags1 boxes and bundles1 most of our choicest stores4 ,from the centre1 and close upon the steep1 obtrusive stairs1 covered with a glossy oil-cloth1 of a cloudy brown and yellow1 our table looks round placidly upon this domestic scene1 so indicative of refreshment and repose4 ,with this little sketch of our sea-apartment1 the stage upon which was enacted our last night's brief play1 ,i will undertake its description1 promising a brevity that rather suggests1 than paints it4 ,after the midnight look-out forward for ice1 and the retreat to the cabin1 ,i soon joined in the general doze1 rather suffered than enjoyed4 ,in the uproar above1 sharp voices and the rush of footsteps over the deck1 occasionally stamping almost in our very faces1 we were too frequently called back to full consciousness1 to escape away into any thing better than the merest snatch of a dream4 ,in my own case1 the stomach1 as usual1 indulged itself in taking the measure of those motions1 so disastrous to its peace and equipose2 those rollings1 risings1 sinkings1 divings1 flings and swings1 in which there is the sense of falling1 and of vibrations smooth and oily4 ,where one's mind's eye is perpetually looking down in upon the poor remains of his late departed dinner1 there is no possibility for the outer eye to sink into any true and honest slumber4 ,the shut lid is a falsehood4 ,it is not sleep4 ,the live1 wakeful eye is under it1 looking up against the skinny veil4 ,occasionally the veil is lifted just to let the dark out2 occasionally the dumb blackness falls in upon the retina like a stifling dust1 and dims it1 for a moment1 to a doze4 ,but the fire of wakefulness soon flashes up from the cells of the brain1 and throws out the sleepy darkness1 as the volcanic crater throws out its smoke and ashes4 ,through some marine manuvre1 thought necessary by the master spirit on deck1 and which could be explained by a single nautical word1 if ,i only knew what the word is1 we began to roll and plunge in a manner sufficiently violent and frightful to startle from its staid quiet almost every movable in the cabin4 ,out shot trunks and boxes--off slid cups and plates with a smash--back and forth1 in one rough scramble with the luggage1 trundled the table1 followed by the nimble chairs4 ,at this rate of going on1 our valuables would soon mix in one common wreck4 ,determining to interfere1 ,i sprang into the unruly confusion1 and succeeded in lighting a candle just in time to join in the rough-and-tumble1 at the risk of ribs and limbs1 and the object of mingled merriment and alarm to the more prudent spectators4 ,botswood1 an experienced voyager1 shouted me back to my berth instantly1 if ,i would not have my bones broken at the next heavy lurch of the vessel4 ,i was beginning to feel the force of the counsel1 when another roll1 almost down upon the beam-ends1 overturned the butter-tub and a box of loaf-sugar1 and brought their contents loose upon the field of action4 ,they divided themselves between the legs of the table and the individual1 and so1 candle in hand and adorned in modest white1 he sat flat down upon the floor among them1 at once their companion in trouble and their protector4 ,the marble-white sugar and the yellow butter1 our luxuries and indispensable necessaries1 there they were1 on the common floor1 and disposed for once to join in a low frolic with plebeian boots and shoes and scullion trumpery4 ,with an earnest resolve to prevent all improprieties of the kind1 one hand grasped1 knuckle deep1 the golden mellow mass1 of the size of a good ,yankee pumpkin1 and held on1 while the other was busy in restoring1 by the rapid handful1 the sugar to the safety of its box4 ,the candle1 in the mean time1 encouraged by the peals of laughter in the galleries1 slid back and forth in the most trifling manner possible4 ,when we tipped one way1 then ,i sat on a steep hill-side1 looking down toward the painter1 roaring in his happy valley3 away slid the candle in her tin slippers1 and away the barefooted butter wanted to roll after1 encouraged to indulge in the foolish caper by a saucy trunk jumping down from behind4 ,when we tipped the other way1 then ,i sat on the same hill-side1 legs up1 looking up1 an unsatisfactory position3 back slid the candle1 followed by a charge of sharp-pointed baggage1 and off started the butter with the best intentions toward the tub1 waiting prostrate and with open arms4 ,notwithstanding the repetition and sameness of this performance1 the beholders applauded with the same heartiness1 as if each change back and forth was a novel and original exhibition4 ,what heightened the effect of the scene1 and gave it a suspicion of the tragic1 was a keg of gunpowder1 which evinced1 by several demonstrations of discontent in the dark corner where it tumbled about1 a disposition to come out and join the candle4 ,by a happy lull1 not unusual in the very midst of these cabin confusions during a brush at sea1 the powder did not enter1 and ,i was enabled to pitch the butter into the tub1 and finally myself1 after some few preliminaries with a towel1 into my berth1 where1 in the course of the small remnant of the night1 ,i fell into some broken slumbers4 ,,chapter ,,xxxi4 ,,the ,,cape ,,and ,,bay ,,of ,,st4 ,,louis4--,,the ,,iceberg4--,,cariboo ,,island4--,,battle ,,harbor ,,and ,,island4--,,the ,,anchorage4--,,the ,,missionaries4 ,,five o'clock1 ,p4 ,m4 ,what a pleasing contrast6 ,we have been tossing nearly all day upon a rough1 inclement ocean1 and are now on the sunny1 smooth waters of the bay1 gliding westward1 with ,cape ,st4 ,louis close upon our right4 ,we have sailed from winter into summer1 almost as suddenly as we come out of the fog1 at times--bursting out of it into the clear air1 as an eagle breaks out of a cloud4 ,it is fairly a luxury to bask in this delicious sunshine1 and smell the mingled perfume of flowers and the musky spruce4 ,mr4 ,hutchinson is filled with delight to find himself once more on this beautiful bay4 ,the rocky hill-country along the western shores1 nine or ten miles distant1 is not the mainland1 he tells us1 but islands1 separated from the mainland1 and from each other1 by narrow waters1 occasionally expanding into lakes of great depth1 and extending more than forty miles from the sea4 ,were these savage hills and cliffs beautified with verdure1 and sprinkled with villages and dwellings1 this would class among the finest bays of the world4 ,across it to the south1 some seven miles1 and partly out to sea1 lies a cluster of picturesque islands1 where is ,battle ,harbor1 the home of the missionaries1 and the principal port on the lengthy coast of ,labrador4 ,a fine iceberg1 of the fashion of a sea-shell1 broken open to the afternoon sun1 and unfolding great beauty1 lies in the middle of the bay4 ,we are sailing past it1 on our passage to the harbor1 just near enough for a good view4 ,it gleams in the warm sun like highly-burnished steel1 changing1 as we pass it1 into many complexions--changeable silks and the rarest china4 ,the superlatives are the words that one involuntarily calls to his aid in the presence of an iceberg4 ,from this bright creation floating in the purple water1 ,i look up to the bright clouds floating in the blue air1 and easily discover likenesses in their features1 ways and colors4 ,the coast of ,labrador is the edge of a vast solitude of rocky hills1 split and blasted by the frosts1 and beaten by the waves of the ,atlantic1 for unknown ages4 ,every form into which rocks can be washed and broken1 is visible along its almost interminable shores4 ,a grand headland1 yellow1 brown and black1 in its horrid nakedness1 is ever in sight1 one to the north of you1 one to the south4 ,here and there upon them are stripes and patches of pale green--mosses1 lean grasses1 and dwarf shrubbery4 ,occasionally1 miles of precipice front the sea1 in which the fancy may roughly shape all the structures of human art1 castles1 palaces and temples4 ,imagine an entire side of ,broadway piled up solidly1 one1 two1 three hundred feet in height1 often more1 and exposed to the charge of the great ,atlantic rollers1 rushing into the churches1 halls1 and spacious buildings1 thundering through the doorways1 dashing in at the windows1 sweeping up the lofty fronts1 twisting the very cornices with snowy spray1 falling back in bright green scrolls and cascades of silvery foam4 ,and yet1 all this imagined1 can never reach the sentiment of these precipices4 ,more frequent1 though1 than headlands and perpendicular sea-fronts are the sea-slopes1 often bald1 tame1 and wearisome to the eye1 now and then the perfection of all that is picturesque and rough1 a precipice gone to pieces1 its softer portions dissolved down to its roots1 its flinty bones left standing1 a savage scene that scares away all thoughts of order and design in nature4 ,if ,i am not mistaken1 there are times when a slope of the kind1 a mile or more in length1 and in places some hundreds of feet in breadth from the tide up to the highest line of washing1 is one of the most terribly beautiful of ocean sights4 ,in an easterly gale1 the billows roll up out of the level of the ocean1 and wreck themselves upon these crags1 rushing back through gulfs and chasms in a way at once awfully brilliant and terrific4 ,this is the rosy time of ,labrador4 ,the blue interior hills1 and the stony vales that wind up among them from the sea1 have a summer-like and pleasant air4 ,i find myself peopling these regions1 and dotting their hills1 valleys1 and wild shores with human habitations4 ,a second thought1 and a mournful one it is1 tells me that no men toil in the fields away there2 no women keep the house off there2 there no children play by the brooks1 or shout around the country school-house2 no bees come home to the hive2 no smoke curls from the farm-house chimney2 no orchard blooms2 no bleating sheep fleck the mountain-sides with whiteness2 and no heifer lows in the twilight4 ,there is nobody there2 there never was but a miserable and scattered few1 and there never will be4 ,it is a great and terrible wilderness of a thousand miles1 and lonesome to the very wild animals and birds4 ,left to the still visitations of the light from the sun1 moon1 and stars1 and the auroral fires1 it is only fit to look upon1 and then be given over to its primeval solitariness4 ,but for the living things of its waters1 the cod1 the salmon and the seal1 which bring thousands of adventurous fishermen and traders to its bleak shores1 ,labrador would be as desolate as ,greenland4 ,we are now entering ,battle ,harbor1 a most romantic nook of water1 or ,strait rather1 between the islands forming the south side of the bay ,st4 ,louis4 ,cariboo ,island fronts to the north on the bay1 five or six miles1 ,i should guess1 and is a rugged mountain-pile of dark gray rock1 rounded in its upper masses1 and slashed along its shores with abrupt chasms4 ,it drops short off1 at its eastern extremity1 several hundred feet1 into a narrow gulf of deep water4 ,this is ,battle ,harbor4 ,the billowy pile of igneous rock1 perhaps two hundred and fifty feet high1 lying between this quiet water and the broad ,atlantic1 is ,battle ,island1 and the site of the town4 ,we pass a couple of wild islets1 lying seaward1 as we glide gently along toward our anchorage4 ,there is little to be seen but hard1 iron-bound bay1 and yet we are all out1 gazing abroad with silent curiosity1 as if we were entering the ,golden ,horn4 ,up runs the ,union ,jack1 and flings its ancient crosses to the sun and breeze1 and the fishermen look down upon us from their rude dwellings perched among the crags1 and wonder who1 and from whence we are4 ,for the moment1 nothing seems to be going on but standing still and looking1 men1 women1 and children4 ,and now they will look and wonder still more3 up run the ,stars and ,stripes1 higher up than all1 and overfloat the flag of ,england1 and salute the sun and cliffs of ,labrador4 ,the missionary waves his handkerchief--waves his hat--calls pleasantly to a group upon the nearest shore4 ,they look1 and hearken1 in the stillness of uncertainty4 ,instantly there is a movement of recognition4 ,the people know it is their pastor4 ,the intelligence has caught1 and runs from house to house4 ,down drop the sails1 rattling down the masts2 the anchor plunges1 and the cable runs1 runs rattling and ringing from its coil4 ,round the vessel swings in line with the breeze1 and comes to its repose4 ,we congratulate the missionary on his safe return1 while he points us feelingly to the little church and parsonage1 just above us on the mossy hill-side1 and bids us welcome as long as we shall find it agreeable to remain4 ,with light and thankful hearts1 and pleasant anticipations1 we prepare to go ashore1 and take our first run upon the hills4 ,,chapter ,,xxxii4 ,,battle ,,island ,,and ,,its ,,scenery4 ,,we sit down upon the summit of ,battle ,island1 after a zigzag scramble up its craggy side1 and talk and sketch and scribble1 as we rest and look upon the blue1 barren sea1 and the brown and more barren continent1 with its mountains of desert rock4 ,with all this desolateness1 the approaching sunset and the warm skies1 the stern headlands1 the white icebergs and bleak islands1 and the bay with its rays and points of water1 like a vast spangle on the savage landscape1 all compose a picture of singular novelty and grandeur2 at the present moment1 wonderfully heightened in beauty and spirit by a distant shower1 itself a spectacle of brilliancy and darkness sweeping up from the north4 ,mr4 ,hutchinson here joins us1 looking all the pleasure that he feels1 and points out what is visible of the lengthy1 but narrow field of his religious labors4 ,the harbor1 with its vessels and various buildings1 lies quite below4 ,one could very nearly throw a stone over the little church spire1 and shoot a rifle ball into the cliffs opposite4 ,the air is spiced with the most delicate odors1 which invites us to a short ramble in search of flowers1 after which we descend to the parsonage for tea4 ,i have stolen out upon the small front piazza with a chair1 to enjoy the warm sunshine and the sights of a ,labrador village4 ,the parsonage1 which has been closed for more than a year past1 has been cleaned and put in order by some kind ,esquimaux parishioners1 and looks neat and comfortable4 ,h---- has taken us all through1 from room to room--to the kitchen1 pantry1 bed-rooms1 parlor1 which serves also for dining-room1 library and study1 to the school-room up stairs1 which is used at times as a chapel4 ,as we passed the house clock1 the pointer still upon the hour where it stopped more than eighteen months ago1 the painter wound it up1 and gave it a fresh start and the true time1 which it began to measure by loud and cheerful ticks1 as if conscious that life and spirit had returned again to the vacant dwelling4 ,on the shelf1 over the fireplace1 lay a prayer-book1 the gift of ,wordsworth to his nephew1 with an affectionate inscription on a fly-leaf1 in his own handwriting1 while near by stood a couple of small pictures of the poet and his wife4 ,as some fishermen are now drawing in their capelin seine1 we are going to run down and see the sight4 ,and quite a pretty sight it was4 ,not less than a barrel or two were inclosed1 which they dipped with a small scoop-net into their boat1 where they lay for a moment1 fluttering like so many little birds of gaudy plumage under the fowler's net4 ,the males and females of these delicate fishes1 are called here1 very comically1 cocks and hens4 ,as our boat1 just then1 came across from the vessel1 the fishers gave us a mess for breakfast1 all of half a bushel1 which we carried over at once4 ,at the sight of several fine salmon1 on the fishing-flake close by1 fresh from the net1 the poor little capelin sank into immediate contempt4 ,we must have a salmon or two4 ,it was a question whether we could not eat several4 ,it resulted in the purchase of one of sixteen pounds1 at the cost of a dollar4 ,we were pulled back immediately in order to sup with ,mr4 ,hutchinson1 and spend the remainder of the long1 light evening in running over ,battle ,island4 ,i shall not yield to the temptation to dwell upon the brilliant sunset which we saw from the summit rocks4 ,its glories were reflected in the bay1 and shed upon the grim wilderness1 dissolving all its gloomy ruggedness into softest beauty4 ,no language can depict the still and solemn splendor of the icebergs1 reposing upon the burnished waters4 ,temples and mausoleums of dazzling white1 warming into tints of pink1 or deepening on their shaded side into the sweetest azure1 seemed to be standing upon a mighty mirror with their images below4 ,i thought of that standing on the sea of glass1 in the glorious visions of ,st4 ,john1 and was filled with emotions of wonder and admiration4 ,the words of the psalmist could hardly fail to be remembered3 8,these men see the works of the ,lord1 and his wonders in the deep40 ,one would think that all is couleur de rose in these lands beyond the reach of fashionable summer tourists4 ,let him remember that nature here blooms1 beautifies1 and bears for the entire year1 in a few short weeks4 ,we are in the very flush of that transient and charming time4 ,believe me1 when ,i speak of the plants and flowers1 shrubbery and mosses4 ,at this moment1 the rocky isle1 bombarded by the ocean1 and flayed by the sword of the blast for months in the year1 is a little paradise of beauty4 ,there are fields of mossy carpet that sinks beneath the foot1 with beds of such delicate flowers as one seldom sees4 ,there is a refined delicacy in the odor1 which the ordinary flora of warmer climes seldom has4 ,some rare exotic1 reared with cost1 and pampered by all the appliances of art1 may suggest the subtle spirit of these tiny blossoms4 ,it steals upon the sense of smell with the indescribable tenderness of the music of the olian harp upon the ear4 ,as ,i enjoy it1 ,i know that ,i cannot paint it to the reader1 and that ,i shall probably never 8look upon its like again40 ,it is very likely that the cool and very pure air1 a refinement of our common atmosphere1 has much to do with it4 ,in our stroll1 we found banks of snow still sleeping in the fissures above the showering of the surf1 and peeping out from beneath their edges were clusters of pretty flowers4 ,as we returned in the twilight1 upon the mournful stillness of which broke the voice of the surge1 ,i lingered upon the cliffs to listen to the wood-thrush1 the same most plaintive and sweet bird that sings in the ,catskill mountain woods1 at dusk and in the early morning4 ,the pathos of its wild melody stole in upon the heart1 waking 8thoughts too deep for tears10 and calling up a throng of tender memories of ,cole and others1 with whom the songster1 the hour1 and mountain scenery are forever associated4 ,startled by the voices of my companions1 one a nephew of the famous poet1 and the other a pupil of the painter scarcely less renowned1 ,i hastened to join them at the humble parsonage below the cliffs1 when we went across to the vessel1 and united1 for the last time in the cabin1 in those pleasant devotions which we had enjoyed1 morning and evening1 since our departure from ,st4 ,johns4 ,,chapter ,,xxxiii4 ,,mosses1 ,,odors ,,and ,,flowers4--,a ,,dinner-,,party4 ,,friday1 ,july #h1 #ahei4 ,a bright1 cool morning4 ,after breakfast at the parsonage1 we went rambling again up and down the moss-covered fields of ,battle ,island1 smelling the fine perfume1 gathering flowers1 and counting the icebergs4 ,there are more than forty in the neighborhood1 and some of them grand and imposing at a distance4 ,have you thought1 as ,i did1 that there are no flowers1 or next to none1 in ,labrador8 ,you might as well have thought that all1 or nearly all the flowers were in ,florida4 ,along the brook-banks under the ,catskills--to me about the loveliest banks on earth1 in the late spring and early summer days--,i have never seen such fairy loveliness as ,i find here upon this bleak islet1 where nature seems to have been playing at ,switzerland4 ,green and yellow mosses1 ankle-deep and spotted with blood-red stains1 carpet the crags and little vales and cradle-like hollows4 ,wonderful to behold6 flowers pink and white1 yellow1 red and blue1 are countless as dew-drops1 and breathe out upon the pure air that odor1 so spirit-like4 ,such surely was the perfume of ,eden around the footsteps of the ,lord1 walking among the trees of the garden in the cool of the day4 ,what grounds these1 for such souls as write1 8,the moss supplicateth for the poet10 and the closing lines of the 8,ode1 ,intimations of ,immortality from recollections of early ,childhood40 ,the ,painter1 passionately in love with the flowers of the tropics1 lay down and rolled upon these soft1 sweet beds of beauty with delight4 ,little gorges and chasms1 overhung with miniature precipices1 wind gracefully from the summits down to meet the waves1 and are filled1 where the sun can warm them1 with all bloom and sweetness1 a kind of wild greenhouse4 ,we run up them1 and we run down them1 fall upon the cushioned stones1 tumble upon their banks of softness as children tumble upon deep feather-beds1 and dive into the yielding cradles embroidered with silken blossoms4 ,willows with a silvery down upon the leaves1 willow-trees no larger than fresh lettuce1 and the mountain laurel of the size of knitting-needles1 with pink flowers to correspond1 cluster here and there in patches of a breadth to suit a sleeping child4 ,after our ramble1 we returned on board1 arranged the cabin1 now become quite roomy from the departure of our friends1 and prepared for dinner1 to which a small company is invited4 ,our cook1 a young ,sandy1 excelling in good nature1 but failing in all the essentials of his art1 was suspended1 for the time1 from the exercise of all duties about the caboose1 except those of the mere lackey1 and two more important personages self-inducted into his place4 ,some pounds of fresh salmon bagged in linen1 a measure of peeled potatoes1 a pudding of rice well shotted with raisins1 one after another1 found their way to the oven and the boilers2 from which1 in due time and order1 they emerged in a satisfactory condition1 and1 with appropriate sauce and gravy1 descended in savory procession to the cabin1 to which they were unexpectedly welcomed by a whole dress circle of fashionable dishes seated in the surrounding berths1 jelly-cake1 sponge-cake1 raspberry-jam1 nuts1 figs1 almonds and raisins1 and a corpulent pitcher1 sweating in his naked white1 filled with iceberg water4 ,it is not necessary to dwell upon the fact1 that the cooks subsided into the more quiet character of hosts1 and made themselves1 and endeavored to make their guests1 merry at their own expense4 ,whether the ,queen of ,england1 or the ,president of the ,united ,states will be pleased1 it never occurred to us at the time1 when1 without thinking of either1 we drank to their health in the transparent vintage of ,greenland4 ,,chapter ,,xxxiv4 ,,our ,,boat ,,for ,,the ,,icebergs4--,,after ,,the ,,alpine ,,berg4--,,study ,,of ,,its ,,western ,,face4 ,,after dinner4 ,mr4 ,hutchinson has placed at our service his parish vessel1 at once a schooner and a row-boat1 of which ,captain ,knight1 of course1 is master1 and our men the sailors4 ,we are all ready1 waiting its arrival alongside1 in order for our first excursion after icebergs1 equipped entirely to our mind4 ,an hour's sail has brought us off into the broad waters1 south of ,battle ,harbor1 close to a berg selected from the heights this morning4 ,we drop sails1 and row rapidly around it1 for the best point of observation in the present light4 ,the intention is to study the ices of these waters1 at all points1 and in all lights1 with great care4 ,from this1 the western side1 now glittering in the face of the sun1 at six o'clock1 it is alpine in its form1 with one crowning peak1 supported by pinnacles and buttresses1 with intervening gulfs and hollows1 each with its torrent hissing along down in white haste over glassy cliffs and in alabaster channels1 until it comes spouting into the sea from an overhanging precipice1 varying from six1 to twenty feet in height4 ,between the upper edge of this ice-coast and the great steeps of the berg1 lies a broad slope1 smooth as ivory1 a paradise for the boys of a village school4 ,we are actually tempted to land at a low place1 and have a run4 ,without skates1 or some arming of the boots1 however1 we guess it would be rather perilous sport2 in short1 simply impossible4 ,we content ourselves with catching a panfull of water1 fresh from the great ,humboldt glacier1 quite likely1 and cold and pure it is4 ,while we are busy at the fountain1 we amuse ourselves with looking down through the clear1 green water--right under us1 clear almost as air--at the roots and prongs of the mountain mass4 ,they shoot out into the dark sea below far beyond our boat1 not a pleasing vision to dwell upon1 when we reflect1 that these very prongs and spurs only wait to take their turn in the sunshine1 under the aspect of upright towers4 ,a heavy fall of ice1 which may happen in a minute1 on the opposite side of the berg1 instantly gives the preponderance to this1 when over this way slowly rolls the alpine peak1 down sinks all this precipice1 and after it1 all the slanting field above2 then on rushes the sea in curling waves1 and we are swept on with them4 ,before we can get back1 and get away to a safe distance1 by the force of mere sailor power1 back rolls the berg1 up rises the broad slope1 followed quickly by the precipices rising up1 up1 and up into lofty cliffs1 with a foreground1 a new revelation of ice2 in a word1 the prongs and spurs now below us in the transparent deep4 ,in all this play of the iceberg and the sea1 what will be our part8 ,and who knows whether the moment is not now close upon us for this sparkling planet of the main to burst asunder1 a common process by which the mother berg throws off her little ones1 rather1 resolves herself entirely into a shoal of small icebergs8 ,should that moment really come while we are in this fearful proximity1 you need not ask any questions about us1 except those which you yourself can answer4 ,there are the dead in these very waters1 ,i believe1 whose last earthly experience was among the final thunders of these ices4 ,i am struck with the rapid rate at which the bergs are perishing4 ,they are dissolving at every point and pore1 both in the air and in the sea4 ,one sheet of water1 although no thicker than a linen sheet1 covers the entire alp4 ,it trickles from every height1 yonder glimmering like a distant window in the sunset1 here cutting into the glassy surface and working out a kind of jewelry1 which sparkles with points of emerald and ruby4 ,it rains from eves and gables1 cornices and balconies1 and spouts from gutters4 ,all around1 there is the pattering of a shower on the sea1 and the sharp1 metallic ringing of great drops1 similar to what is heard around a pond in the still woods1 when the dew-drops fall from the overhanging boughs4 ,below1 the currents1 now penetrated with the summer warmth1 are washing it away4 ,around the surface-line1 the ever-busy waves are polishing the newly-broken corners1 and cutting under1 and mining their way in1 with deceitful rapidity4 ,unceasingly they bore and drill1 without holiday or sabbath1 or rest at night1 as the perpetual thunders of their blasting testify4 ,thus their ruin is hourly hastening to a consummation1 and the danger of approaching them made more and more imminent4 ,the iceberg in winter1 in the ,arctic regions1 and even here1 is a different affair4 ,in the cold1 they are tolerably safe and sound4 ,but now1 in these comparatively tepid seas1 and in this warm atmosphere1 lone wanderer1 it finds no mercy4 ,motionless as this and several bergs appear1 they are all slowly moving in toward the ,strait of ,belle ,isle1 borne forward by the great ,baffin current1 a stream of which bends around ,cape ,st4 ,louis and these adjacent isles1 and sets along the shore of ,labrador into the ,gulf of ,st4 ,lawrence4 ,,chapter ,,xxxv4 ,,the ,,alpine ,,berg4--,,studies ,,of ,,its ,,southern ,,front4--,,frightful ,,explosion ,,and ,,fall ,,of ,,ice4--,,studies ,,of ,,the ,,western ,,side4--,,our ,,play ,,with ,,the ,,moose ,,horns4--,,the ,,splendor ,,of ,,the ,,berg ,,in ,,the ,,sunset4 ,,we are now lying under oars1 riding quietly on the swells1 distant1 say1 a hundred yards south of the berg1 which has a visible1 perpendicular front of five hundred1 by one hundred and fifty feet or more elevation4 ,it resembles a precipice of newly-broken porcelain1 wet and dripping1 its vast face of dead white tinged with green1 here and there1 from the reflection of the green water at its base4 ,we are in its shadow1 which reaches off on the sunny sea1 a long1 dark track4 ,the outline of the berg is one edge of dazzling brightness1 a kind of irregular1 flowing frame1 gilt with sunlight1 which comes pouring over in full tide from behind4 ,where the ice shoots up into thin spear-points1 or runs along a semi-transparent blade1 the light shines through1 and gives the tint of flame1 with a greenish band below1 and lower still1 a soft blue1 presently lost in the broad white4 ,in these ices1 never think of any such as you see at home1 from ,rockland and ,catskill4 ,frozen under enormous pressure1 and frozen to dry and flinty hardness1 it has all the sparkle of minutest crystallization1 and resembles1 as ,i have said already1 freshly broken statue-marble or porcelain1 as you see it on the edge newly snapped4 ,the surface of this ice is in itself a study singularly complex and subtle4 ,how the mere passer-by1 at a distance1 is going to know any thing of value to a painter1 ,i cannot tell4 ,the fact is1 he knows just nothing at all4 ,a portrait-painter might as well pretend to have a knowledge of flesh1 from seeing people at a distance4 ,i think if ,i could study just here1 for hours1 ,i should be able to speak more correctly4 ,of course1 the ,painter1 whose eye is trained to look into the texture of surfaces1 sees all more readily4 ,i am looking up to rough crags1 and enormous bulges1 where the recent fracture would seem to have an almost painful sharpness to the touch4 ,where the surfaces have been for a time exposed to the weather1 they have the flesh-finish of a statue4 ,along the lower portion1 where you see the glassing effects of the waves1 there it resembles the rarest ,svres vase1 or even pearl itself1 so exquisitely fine is the polish4 ,it is almost mirror-like4 ,you perceive the dim images of passing objects1 shadowy ships and shores4 ,where the light pours over it in its strength1 it shines like burnished steel in the sunshine4 ,under the manifold effects of atmosphere1 light and shade1 none can imagine1 through the medium of mere description1 the grandeur and glory of these moving ,alps of ice4 ,here now1 is one simple feature1 which our dangerous proximity alone enables us to view1 the wondrous beauty of which--beauty to the feelings as well as to the eye--,i cannot find any language to paint4 ,i may talk of it through a hundred periods1 and yet you will never feel and see a tithe of what you would in a moment1 were you here upon the spot4 ,the berg1 in the deep shadow of which we now sit painting and writing1 as ,i have intimated1 is in form a mountain pinnacle1 split down from the summit square1 and the split side toward our boat4 ,what has became of the lost half1 the ,great ,builder of icebergs only knows4 ,we are under the cliffs1 from which that unknown part burst off and fell away4 ,it is an awful precipice1 with all the features of precipices1 such as are seen about capes1 headlands and ocean shores4 ,here it swells out1 there it sinks in1 masses have slidden out1 and left square-headed doorways opening into the solid porcelain1 ridges run off1 and hollows run in and around4 ,in these very hollows and depressions is the one feature of which ,i am speaking4 ,and1 after all1 what is it8 ,it is simply shadow4 ,is that all8 ,that is all3 only shadow4 ,all the grand faade is one shadow1 with a rim of splendor like liquid gold leaf or yellow flame1 but in those depressions is a deeper shadow4 ,shadow under shadow1 dove-colored and blue4 ,thus there seems to be drifting about1 in the hollow lurking-places of the dead white1 a colored atmosphere1 the warmth1 softness1 and delicate beauty of which no mind can think of words to express4 ,so subtle is it and evanescent1 that recollection cannot recall it when once gone1 but by the help of the heart and the feelings1 where the spirit of beauty last dies away4 ,you can feel it1 after you have forgotten what its complexion precisely is1 and from that emotion you may come to remember it4 ,you would remember nothing more beautiful4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,no4 #d4 ,,ice ,,falling ,,from ,a ,,lofty ,,berg ,lith4 of ,sarony ,major ,knapp1 #ddi ,broadway ,,ny4 ,any doubt that ,i may have entertained about the danger of lying under the shadow of this great ice-rock is now wholly dispelled4 ,we have just witnessed what was1 for the moment1 a perfect cataract of ice1 with all its motion1 and many times its noise4 ,quick as lightning and loud as thunder1 when bolt and thunder come at the same instant1 there was one terrific crack1 a sharp and silvery ringing blow upon the atmosphere1 which ,i shall never forget1 nor ever be able to describe4 ,it shook me through1 and struck the very heart4 ,the only response on my part1 and ,i was not alone in the fright1 was a convulsive spring to the feet1 and a shout to the oarsmen1 of fierce command1 8,row back6 row back60 ,the spectacle was nearly as startling as the explosion4 ,at once1 the upper face of the berg burst out upon the air1 as if it had been blasted1 and swept down across the great cliff1 a huge cataract of green and snowy fragments1 with a wild1 crashing roar1 followed by the heavy1 sullen thunder of the plunge into the ocean1 and the rolling away of the high-crested seas1 and the rocking of the mighty mass back and forth1 in the effort to regain its equilibrium4 ,i dreaded the encounter2 but our whale-boat was quite at home1 and breasted the lofty swells most gracefully4 ,but how fearfully impressive is all this6 ,i recall the warning of the ,bishop of ,newfoundland1 and recollect the conversation of the ,rev4 ,mr4 ,wood1 the rector of ,st4 ,thomas'4 ,we now pass round to the other side of the berg1 and take a position between it and the sun4 ,upon our first circumnavigation1 we found this edge of the ice1 in its lowest part1 about six feet above the sea1 with a cavernous hollow running all round1 into which the waves were playing with their strange and many sounds4 ,now1 from the recent loss of ice on the opposite heights1 all this edge has sunk below the waves1 leaving only an inclined plane sweeping up from the water's edge to the steeper parts of the berg1 at an angle of about #bj degrees4 ,fancy a slab of ,italian marble1 four and five hundred feet in width1 extending from the eaves of the ,city ,hall1 ,new ,york1 half-way or more down the park4 ,i think you will have a tolerable notion of the slope now before us4 ,up this slippery field of ivory hardness roll the waves1 dark as night until they strike the ice1 when1 in a flash1 they turn into that lovely green of the sea1 and afterward break in long lines of tumultuous foam4 ,the spectacle is perfectly magnificent4 ,a seam of ice1 apparently six inches in diameter1 of the hue of a sapphire1 cuts the berg from its very top down1 and doubtless cuts through the entire submarine body4 ,this jewel of the iceberg is a wonderful beauty4 ,sparkles of light seem to come from its blue1 transparent depths4 ,what1 at first1 appears singular is1 that these blue veins are much softer than the surrounding ice1 melting faster1 and so becoming channels in which little torrents glitter as they run4 ,at first1 we were at a loss to know how they originated1 but presently felt satisfied1 that they were cracks filled with water1 and frozen when the berg was a glacier4 ,this indelible mark of primitive breakage and repair indicates with some correctness the original perpendicular of the ice4 ,according to the blue band in the berg now before us1 it is occupying very nearly the position it was in when it was a fissure or crevasse of the glacier4 ,long processional lines of broken ice are continually floating off from the parent berg1 which1 in the process of melting1 assume many curious shapes1 huge antlers of the moose and elk1 and sea-fowl1 geese and ducks1 of gigantic figure4 ,we have just succeeded in securing one of these antlers1 and a merry time we had4 ,before reaching it1 we supposed one could bend over and lift it out of the water as easily as he stoops and picks up a buck's horn out of the prairie grass4 ,it was a match for three of us1 and escaped out of our hands and arms repeatedly1 slipping back into the waves1 and requiring us to round to again and again before we fairly had it4 ,as it is the hardest and the heaviest1 so it is the most slippery of all ices1 and certainly it seems to me the coldest thing upon which human hands were ever laid4 ,our summer cakes1 handed in by the ice-man1 are warm1 ,i fancy1 in comparison4 ,i do not wonder that the face of icebergs burst off1 under the expansion of the heat they receive in these ,july days4 ,the surface of this horn is not the least curious feature of it3 it is melted into circular depressions about the depth and size of a large watch-crystal1 all cutting into each other with such regularity that their angles fall into lines parallel and diagonal in the most artistic manner4 ,now that we have it in the boat1 it resembles a pair of mammoth moose-horns sculptured from water-soaked alabaster4 ,we see several of them now1 five or six feet tall1 rocking and nodding on the swells as if they were the living appendages of some old moose of the briny deep1 come up to sport a little in the world of warmth and sunshine4 ,c---- finds great difficulty in painting1 from the motion of the boat2 but it is the best thing in the service1 after all1 for the men can take a position1 and keep it by the help of oars1 in spite of the waves and currents which beset an iceberg4 ,the moments for which we have been waiting are now passing1 and the berg is immersed in almost supernatural splendors4 ,the white alpine peak rises out of a field of delicate purple1 fading out on one edge into pale sky-blue4 ,every instant changes the quality of the colors4 ,they flit from tint to tint1 and dissolve into other hues perpetually1 and with a rapidity impossible to describe or paint4 ,i am tempted to look over my shoulder into the north1 and see if the 8merry dancers0 are not coming1 so marvellously do the colors come and go4 ,the blue and the purple pass up into peach-blow and pink4 ,now it blushes in the last look of the sun-red blushes of beauty--tints of the roseate birds of the south--the complexion of the roses of ,damascus4 ,in this delicious dye it stands embalmed--only for a minute1 though2 for now the softest dove-colors steal into the changing glory1 and turn it all into light and shade on the whitest satin4 ,the bright green waves are toiling to wash it whiter1 as they roll up from the violet sea1 and explode in foam along the broad alabaster4 ,power and ,beauty1 hand in hand1 bathing the bosom of ,purity4 ,i need not pause to explain how all this is2 but so it is1 and many times more1 in the passing away of the sunshine and the daylight4 ,it is wonderful6 ,i had never dreamed of it1 even while ,i have been reading of icebergs well described4 ,as ,i sit and look at this broken work of the ,divine fingers1--only a shred broken from the edge of a glacier1 vast as it is--,i whisper these words of ,revelation3 8and hath washed their robes1 and made them white in the blood of the ,lamb40 ,it hangs before us1 with the sea and the sky behind it1 like some great robe made in heaven4 ,where the flowing folds break into marble-like cliffs1 on the extreme wings of the berg1 an inward green seems to be pricking through a fine straw tint1 spangled with gold4 ,weary1 chilly1 and a little sea-sick1 ,i am glad to find the ,painter giving the last touches to a sketch1 and to hear him give the word for return4 ,the men1 who in common with all these people of this northern sea have a terror of icebergs1 gladly lift the sails1 and so1 with ,captain ,knight at the helm1 we are speeding over the waves for ,battle ,harbor4 ,,chapter ,,xxxvi4 ,,ramble ,,among ,,the ,,flowers ,,of ,,battle ,,island4--,a ,,visit ,,to ,,the ,,fishermen4--,,walk ,,among ,,the ,,hills ,,of ,,cariboo4 ,,saturday1 ,july #i4 ,we are abroad again on the rocky hills1 fanned with the soft1 summer wind1 and blessed with the loveliest sunshine4 ,the mosses sparkle with their sweet-scented blossoms of purple1 white1 and red1 and the wood-thrush is pouring out its plaintive melody over the bleak crags1 and the homes of fishermen1 around whose doors ,i see the children playing as merrily as the children of fortune in more favored lands4 ,how many a tender parent1 now watching over a sick child in the wealthy city1 would be glad to have the sufferer here1 to be the playfellow of these simple boys and girls1 if he could have their health and promise of life4 ,captain ,knight comes with his hands full of flowers1 not unlike the daisy2 and here come ,hutchinson and the ,painter4 ,we meet around this moss-covered crag1 where ,i am sitting with my book and pencil1 and resolve at once to go down1 and visit an islet of the harbor1 where a few families have a summer residence during the fishing season4 ,here we are among the huts and dogs1 and ,english people1 with the ways of ,labrador4 ,a kind woman1 with whom ,i have been talking about the deprivations of her lot in life1 has offered to bake bread for us when we can send the flour4 ,the ,painter is out sketching this summer nest upon the bleak1 surf-washed rocks1 about as wild-looking as the nesting-place of sea-birds4 ,generous-hearted people6 ,i am pleased with their simple ways1 and their affectionate1 but most respectful manner toward their pastor4 ,well1 indeed1 they may be both respectful and affectionate4 ,his life is a sacrifice for them and their children4 ,what but the love of ,christ and of men could lead one here1 and keep him here1 who can ornament and bless the most cultivated society8 ,i thank ,god1 that ,he gives us witness1 in such men1 of the power and excellency of ,his grace upon the human heart4 ,we sail across the harbor to a cove1 or chasm in the lofty sea-wall1 with the intention of a walk over the hills of ,cariboo1 while ,hutchinson visits a few of his parishioners thereabouts4 ,after a pleasant ramble1 during which we were often tempted to run and jump with very delight along the spongy1 springy moss1 blushing here and there with its sweet bloom1 we sit down on the top of a high hill1 and look off upon the ocean and the bay of ,st4 ,louis1 extending far into the desolate interior like a series of blue lakes4 ,all the beauteous apparel of summer has been stripped off1 and the brown and broken bones of the sad earth are bleaching in the wind and sun4 ,you would be delighted1 though1 with the little vales1 notched and shelved with craggy terraces that catch and hold the sunshine4 ,they have the sultry warmth and scent of a conservatory1 and are frequently rich with herbage1 now in flower4 ,it seems a pity that these nooks of verdure and floral beauty should thus 8waste their sweetness on the desert air40 ,for a few days1 the woolly flocks of ,new ,england would thrive in ,labrador4 ,during those few days1 there are thousands of her fair daughters who would love to tend them4 ,i prophesy the time is coming when the invalid and tourist from the ,states will be often found spending the brief1 but lovely summer here1 notwithstanding its ruggedness and desolation4 ,upon reflection1 a broad and ancient solitude like this has a sadness in it which no bloom1 no sun can dispel4 ,never1 never1 in all my life1 have ,i beheld a land like this1 the expression and sentiment of which are essentially mournful and melancholy4 ,the sunshine1 skies1 8the pomp and circumstance of0 ocean1 sweet smells1 and sounds1 and one's own joyous1 healthy feelings1 flowing out and washing out as they flow the natural sadness of the soul1 cannot take away nor cover up that which really and everlastingly is1 and ever will be1 namely1 the sentiment of mournfulness4 ,nature here is at a funeral forever1 and these beauties1 so delicately fashioned1 are but flowers in the coffin4 ,it is a coincidence a little curious that ,i should have written these periods above1 and then have plunged into just the most lonesome little valley in all the world to hit upon a graveyard4 ,but there it was1 a gloomy1 silent field1 enclosed with the merest dry skeleton of a fence1 for no purpose to keep a creature out where no creature is1 but just to make a scratch around the few narrow beds where the dead repose1 unpraised and unnamed1 under the lightest possible covering of dust1 as undisturbed as in the deeps of the ,atlantic4 ,from the tombless cemetery1 our way back to the vessel over the hills resembled the crossing of mountains just below the line of perpetual snow4 ,upon the summit we encountered a small lake and marshes with water-plants and flowers4 ,at the eastern extremity of the island1 where the rocks break off steeply some hundreds of feet1 we saw every object of the port nearly beneath1 and apparently within stone's throw4 ,a novel sight to us was the bottom of the harbor1 seen through the clear1 greenish water with considerable distinctness almost from end to end4 ,patches of sea-weed1 dark rocks1 and white gravel1 seemed to be lying in the bottom of a shallow mirror1 across which small fishes1 large ones in reality1 were wandering at their leisure4 ,this was a picturesque revelation4 ,upon the surface of the harbor1 the depth of water very nearly shuts out all view of the bottom4 ,i am beginning to think that a few thousand feet above the ocean1 in a bright day1 would enable the eye to pierce it to an extraordinary depth4 ,,chapter ,,xxxvii4 ,,after ,,the ,,bay ,,st4 ,,louis ,,iceberg4--,,windsor ,,castle ,,iceberg4--,,founders ,,suddenly4--,a ,,brilliant ,,spectacle4 ,,after dinner1 upon the heights of ,battle ,island1 gathering roots1 plants1 and mosses to carry home4 ,we notice with pleasure the largest iceberg by far that we have ever yet seen4 ,it is the last arrival from ,greenland1 and is abreast ,cape ,st4 ,louis1 in the northeast4 ,it is a stupendous thing1 and reminds me of ,windsor ,castle1 as ,i know it from pictures and engravings4 ,it appears to be wheeling in toward the bay1 with a front of great elevation and extent1 finely adorned with projections and massive towers not unlike those of the regal structure of which it reminds me4 ,i see by the watch it is nearly #d ,p4 ,m41 the time set for our departure to a ,bay ,st4 ,louis berg4 ,pencil and note-book must be pocketed1 and haste be made with my vegetable gatherings4 ,pencil and note-book reappear1 and the sketch recommences4 ,half-way to the chosen iceberg1 in the mouth of the bay1 rowing slowly over the glassy1 low swells1 as they move in from sea4 ,these are the swells for me3 broad1 imperial swells1 full of majesty1 dignity1 and grace2 placid and serene of countenance2 solemn1 slow1 and silent in their roll4 ,they are the swells of olden time1 royal and aristocratic1 legitimately descended from those that bore the ark upon their bosom1 and used to bear the unbroken images of the orbs of heaven4 ,replete with gentleness and love and power1 they lift us lightly1 and pass us over tenderly from hand to hand1 and toss us pleasantly and softly from breast to breast1 and roll us carefully from lap to lap1 and smile upon us with their shining smiles4 ,grand and gracious seas6 ,with you ,i love the ocean4 ,with you ,i am not afraid4 ,and with you1 how kind and compassionate of you1 ye old patrician billows6 with you ,i am not sea-sick4 ,save us from those plebeian waves1 that rabble-rout of surges1 that democratic 8lop10 lately born1 and puffed into noisy importance6 ,they scare me1 and1 worst of all1 make me sick and miserable4 ,every few minutes we hear the artillery of the icebergs1 and are on the watch for fine displays1 this warm afternoon4 ,c---- is sketching hastily1 with the pencil1 ,windsor ,castle berg1 now in complete view1 and distant1 ,i should guess1 five miles4 ,it is a mighty and imposing structure4 ,between making my last dot and now--an interval of ten minutes--,windsor ,castle has experienced the convulsions of an earthquake1 and gone to ruin4 ,to use the term common here1 it has 8foundered40 ,a magazine of powder fired in its centre1 could not more effectually1 and not much more quickly1 have blown it up4 ,while in the act of sketching1 ,c---- suddenly exclaimed3 when1 lo6 walls and towers were falling asunder1 and tumbling at various angles with apparent silence into the ocean1 attended with the most prodigious dashing and commotion of water4 ,enormous sheaves of foam sprung aloft and burst in air2 high1 green waves1 crested with white-caps1 rolled away in circles1 mingling with leaping shafts and fragments of ice reappearing from the deep in all directions4 ,nearly the whole of this brilliant spectacle was the performance of a minute1 and to us as noiseless as the motions of a cloud1 for a length of time ,i had not expected4 ,when the uproar reached us1 it was thunder doubled and redoubled1 rolling upon the ear like the quick successive strokes of a drum1 or volleys of the largest ordnance4 ,it was awfully grand1 and altogether the most startling exhibition ,i ever witnessed4 ,at this moment1 there is a large field of ruins1 some of them huge masses like towers prone along the waters1 with a lofty steeple left alone standing in the midst1 and rocking slowly to and fro4 ,,chapter ,,xxxviii4 ,,sunday ,,in ,,labrador4--,,evening ,,walk ,,to ,,the ,,graveyard4--,,the ,,rocky ,,ocean ,,shore4 ,,sunday ,,evening1 ,july #aj4 ,we have had a beautiful and interesting day4 ,early in the morning1 flags were flying from the shipping1 and from the tall staff in front of the church1 the only bell-tower of the town4 ,boats1 with people in their ,sunday best1 soon came rowing in from different quarters1 for the services of the day1 in which ,i had the pleasure of assisting4 ,the house1 seating about two hundred people1 was crowded1 morning and afternoon1 with a devout and attentive congregation1 responding loudly1 and singing very spiritedly4 ,before sunset1 we left the parsonage for a quiet walk4 ,falling into a crooked path1 we followed it to the burying-ground in the bottom of a narrow1 deep hollow1 where time has gathered from the surrounding rocks a depth of earth sufficient for shallow graves4 ,while yet the sunshine was bright upon the high1 overhanging cliffs1 dotted with lichens and tufted with their summer greenery1 the little vale below1 with its brown gravestones nearly lost in the rank verdure1 was immersed in cool and lonesome shadows4 ,an unavoidable incumbrance of the sacred field was several large bowlders1 among which the long grass1 and weeds and tablets were irregularly dispersed4 ,it is the custom of the ,english church to consecrate burying-grounds4 ,eleven years ago1 ,bishop ,field consecrated this4 ,it was a pleasant ,sunday morning1 and the procession1 with the bishop at its head clothed in his official robes1 descended by the winding path1 and performed the appointed service4 ,nearly the whole population of the region was present1 either in the procession1 or looking down with silent admiration from the rocky galleries around4 ,a better resting-place1 when one lies down weary from the tasks and troubles of the present life1 could not well be imagined4 ,its perpetual solitude1 never profaned by the noisy feet of the busy world1 draped alternately with snowy fleeces and blooming verdure1 is always made musical by the solemn murmurs of the ocean4 ,i found by the inscriptions1 that ,england was the native country of most of those whose bones repose below1 and whose names are gathering moss and lichens1 while the sea1 close by1 sings their mournful requiem4 ,from this lone hamlet of the dead1 we picked our way among broken rocks out to the sea shore1 all white with the sounding surf1 and gazed with silent pleasure on the blue ,atlantic1 the dark headlands1 and the icebergs glittering in the sunset4 ,glittering in the sunset6 ,they glowed with golden fire--pointed1 motionless1 and solid flames4 ,battle ,island1 had there never been any bloody contest of angry men1 would be an appropriate name4 ,the whole northeastern shore1 once a lofty precipice1 no doubt1 but now a descent of indescribable ruggedness1 is an extended field1 whereon for ages flinty rocks and mighty waves have contended in battle4 ,a favorite walk of ,hutchinson's1 during the wintry tempests1 is along the height overlooking this mighty slope or glacis4 ,his quiet description of the terrible grandeur of the scene1 was truly thrilling4 ,in the course of our walk1 we came upon the verge of a fissure1 which looked like an original intention to split the island through its centre4 ,banks of snow still lay in the nooks and closets of its gloomy chambers1 through which1 every now and then1 boomed the low thunder of the plunging surf4 ,upon our return1 late in the evening1 although quite light1 we wandered over tracts of the elastic1 flowering moss4 ,the step is rendered exceedingly bouyant1 and invites you to skip and bound through the richly carpeted hollows4 ,after prayer at the parsonage1 we returned to the vessel1 and talked in our berths until slumber made us silent1 past midnight4 ,,chapter ,,xxxix4 ,,the ,,sail ,,to ,,fox ,,harbor4--,a ,,day ,,with ,,the ,,esquimaux1 ,,and ,,our ,,return4 ,,monday1 ,july #aa4 ,after icebergs in ,st4 ,michael's ,bay1 was to have been the order of the morning4 ,it lies northward forty miles1 and usually abounds in icebergs of the largest size1 ,mr4 ,hutchinson informs us4 ,there is not1 however1 the least necessity for passing ,cape ,st4 ,louis1 south of which there is ice enough in sight for all the painters in the world4 ,but the charm of novelty is almost irresistible4 ,had we the time1 we would see the glaciers themselves1 of which these bergs are merely the chippings4 ,what has suddenly caused this change in our plans is an approaching storm4 ,it will never do for us to be out at sea in a cold northeaster1 if it possibly can be avoided4 ,the painter and ,i are so given over to sea-sickness1 in rough weather1 that nothing can be enjoyed1 and nothing done with pen or pencil4 ,the work and play of the day are finally determined4 ,c---- with the ,captain will cruise southerly among the bergs of ,belle ,isle1 and ,i will go with ,mr4 ,hutchinson and ,botwood north1 across ,st4 ,louis water to ,fox ,harbor1 one of the points of this extended parish4 ,we leave1 past noon a little1 sailing very pleasantly by the ices1 which appear to be in considerable motion4 ,several are going to sea1 and may reach the track of ,new ,yorkers voyaging to ,europe1 and be thought very wonderful and fine2 and so indeed they will be1 should they lose half of their present bulk4 ,there appears to be no end to the combinations of these icy edifices4 ,they mimic all the styles of architecture upon earth2 rather1 all styles of architecture may be said to imitate them1 inasmuch as they were floating here in what we please to call ,greek and ,gothic forms long before ,greek or ,goth were in existence4 ,yonder1 now1 is a cluster of ,gothic cottages4 ,i trace out a multitude of peaked gables and low porches1 and think of ,sunny ,side upon the ,hudson4 ,two hours have slipped away1 and we approach the northern shore1 attended by no less a travelling companion than a small whale4 ,now he blows just behind us1 disappears1 and blows again upon our right4 ,there he blows ahead of us4 ,here he is close upon our left4 ,the fellow is diving under us4 ,all this may be very pretty sport for the whale1 but with all the merry remarks of ,hutchinson1 respecting the good nature of our twenty-foot out-rider1 ,i confess ,i am relieved to find that he is gradually enlarging the field of his amusements4 ,the mouth of ,fox ,harbor all at once discovers itself1 and lets us in upon a small sheet of water1 not unlike a mountain lake with its back-ground of black1 wild hills4 ,a few huts1 a wharf1 and fish-house appear upon the margin of the narrow peninsula that lies between the harbor and the bay4 ,the people are pure ,esquimaux and ,english1 with a mixture from intermarriage4 ,the patriarch of the place1 perhaps sixty years of age1 with his wife1 and1 ,i believe1 the elder members of the family1 are natives of a high latitude1 and a good specimen of the arctic race4 ,they are now members of the ,english ,church1 and for piety and virtue compare well with ,christians anywhere4 ,in the course of the afternoon1 their pastor held divine service1 and administered the sacrament of baptism4 ,there were between twenty and thirty present1 old and young1 some of whom had prayer-books and responded4 ,the sermon1 which ,i was invited to preach1 ,i made as simple and practical as possible1 and found earnest and honest listeners4 ,after an examination of furs and snow-shoes1 reindeer horns1 and seal-skin1 fresh from the seal1 and still loaded with its fat or blubber1 we had an exhibition of the kayak4 ,it was light and tight1 and ringy as a drum1 and floated on the water like a bubble4 ,under the strokes of the kayaker1 it darted forward over the low swells with a grace and fleetness unknown to the birch-bark canoe4 ,after tea1 and a very good tea1 too2 in fact1 after two teas1 we bade the ,esquimaux farewell and sailed away1 taking one of their number along with us1 who had formerly been a servant1 and was now to resume her old place as such1 in the parsonage4 ,about half way across the bay1 a squall from sea struck us with startling suddenness4 ,but our bold young sailing-master1 ,mc,donald1 the mate and owner of our vessel1 managed the boat admirably1 and we fairly flew through the white-caps to the smooth water of our harbor4 ,in the evening we gathered in at the parsonage1 taking tea1 made and served by the ,esquimaux woman1 telling the adventures of the day1 both north and south1 and returning at midnight to our cabin4 ,,chapter ,,xl4 ,a ,,morning ,,ramble ,,over ,,cariboo4--,,excursion ,,on ,,the ,,bay1 ,,and ,,the ,,tea-,,drinking ,,at ,,the ,,solitary ,,fisherman',s4 ,,tuesday1 ,july #ab4 ,cold as ,november1 and a gale outside4 ,after a late breakfast1 we roam the hills of ,cariboo1 under the cliffs of which the ,integrity now lies tied to the rocks4 ,we gather roots and flowers1 gaze upon the vast and desolate prospect1 count the icebergs1 and watch the motions of the fog driving1 in large1 cloud-like masses1 across the angry ocean4 ,it is surprising how much we do in these1 to us1 almost interminable days4 ,but for the necessity of it1 ,i believe that we should not sleep at all1 but work and play right on from midnight into morning1 and from morning down to midnight4 ,we have a large afternoon excursion before us4 ,previous to that1 however1 the ,captain and myself are going upon an exploring expedition4 ,coasting the southern shores of ,st4 ,louis water1 having a little private amusement by ourselves4 ,the breeze1 in from sea1 gives us about as much as we can manage4 ,gives us about as much as we can manage6 8,us0 and 8,we0 have not a great deal to do with it4 ,this half of the 8us0 and the 8we10 the ,me and the subjective ,i1 as your ,kantian philosopher calls his essential self1 sits here about midship1 bear-skinned in with a fleecy brown coat1 holding on1 and dodging the spray that cuffs him on the right and left2 while the other1 and vastly larger half1 in the shape of the captain1 holds all the reins of this marine chariot in his own single hand--ropes1 rudder and all1 and holds them1 too1 well and wisely4 ,but we enjoy the freedom of these spirited1 though harmless seas1 and dash along through most charmingly4 ,what coasts these are6 8,precipitous1 black1 jagged rocks10 savage as lions and tigers showing their claws and teeth1 and foaming at the lips4 ,here is a chasm called a cove1 up which the green water runs in the shape of a scimetar or horn--the piercing and the goring of the sea for unknown centuries4 ,away in the extreme hollow of this horn is a fishing-flake1 and half-way up1 where the sea-birds would naturally nest1 a ,scotch fisherman has his summer-home4 ,we are going in to see him4 ,he met us at the water's edge1 and welcomed us with a fisherman's welcome--none heartier in the world--and sent us forward by a zigzag path to the house hidden away among the upper rocks4 ,in the very tightest place of the ascent1 there swept down upon us an avalanche of dogs furiously barking--a kind of onset for which ,i have had a peculiar disrelish ever since ,i was overthrown by a ferocious mastiff in my childhood4 ,i sprang to the tip of a crag1 and stood out of their reach1 while they bristled and barked at the ,captain1 who coolly maintained his ground4 ,the shout of the fisherman's wife1 who now appeared on the edge of the scene above1 instantly stilled the uproar1 and invited us up with the cheering assurance that they seldom bit anybody1 and were rather glad than angry that we had come4 ,the language of dogs being very much the same in all countries1 ,i took occasion to doubt any pleasure that ,bull1 ,brindle1 and ,bowse were thought to have felt at our presence4 ,the rascals smelt closely at my heels and hands1 with an accompaniment of bristling backs and tails1 and deep-throated growls4 ,we were no sooner in the house and seated than the good man himself arrived1 and ordered the kettle to the fire for a 8bit of tea40 8,it would do us good10 he said1 8,when strangers came1 he commonly had a bit of tea40 ,his life had been a struggle for food and raiment3 such was the tenor of his brief history4 ,four children were with him2 four were in a better world4 ,forty years he had been a fisherman4 ,thirty1 on these shores4 ,they came up yearly from ,carbonear in the early days of ,june1 cleared the house of ice and snow1 and got ready for the fish4 ,their dogs1 which are their only team in ,newfoundland1 would be lost if left behind1 and so they brought them along to save them4 ,after tea1 a fine game-cock took possession of the floor1 walking close in front1 looking up sideways in an inquisitive and comical manner1 and crowing very spiritedly4 ,hard by1 in a box beneath a bed1 ,i caught a glimpse of the red comb of a hen1 his only mate4 ,a little1 flaxen-haired1 blue-eyed girl ran and brought her out as something to surprise and delight us4 ,and so with cock and hen1 and children1 the fisherman and his wife1 mariner and minister1 we were a social party4 ,thus the human heart spins out its threads of love1 and fastens them even to the far-distant rocks of cold and barren ,labrador4 ,they took us through their fish-house1 which hung like a birdcage among the crags1 and afterwards followed us down to the water1 and gave our bark a kindly push1 8and thus we parted40 ,,chapter ,,xli4 ,,painting ,,the ,,cavern ,,of ,,great ,,island1 ,,and ,,our ,,sail ,,homeward ,,in ,a ,,gale4 ,,two o'clock ,p4 ,m4 ,the wind has moderated1 and blows from the land4 ,we sail out upon the eastern or ocean side of ,great ,island4 ,this is not precisely the excursion proposed in the morning1 which was to an iceberg in the bay4 ,it is the best1 though1 that we can do1 and may turn out very well4 ,i could wish a less exciting passage in than we had out1 when1 for the first1 ,i learned the power of wind to knock a vessel over at a single blow4 ,it pounced upon us1 as it swept over the lofty ridge of the island1 in puffs and gusts quite frightful4 ,at one moment1 the sails would be without a breath2 at another1 the wonder is that they were not burst from their fastenings4 ,as the ,captain turned into the wind1 the boat would jump as if going out of the water4 ,some training is necessary for your landsman to bear this with perfect coolness4 ,after landing us1 the ,captain1 with a couple of men1 plays off and on between a fishing-fleet and shore1 while ,c---- paints the particular part of the coast for which we have come4 ,it consists of what once might have been a grand cavern1 but now fallen in1 and all its cragged gulf opened to the day4 ,into the yawning portal of this savage chasm plunge the big waves of the ,atlantic4 ,in an easterly gale1 there is performed in this gloomy theatre no farce of the surges1 but the grandest tragedy4 ,in fact1 this whole coast1 a thousand miles or more1 is built up1 rather torn down1 on the most stupendous scale--vast and shattered--terrifically rough--tumult and storm all in horrid stone4 ,it would well pay the painter of coast scenery to spend a fall and winter upon these shores4 ,the breaking of the waves upon such rocks as these must be an astonishing spectacle of power and fury4 ,the charge and the retreat of billows upon slopes of rock so torn and shattered1 for miles and miles at the same moment1 ,mr4 ,hutchinson repeatedly declares1 is one of the most brilliant and imposing sights on earth4 ,while ,c---- is painting1 ,i have been writing these periods1 and clambering the mossy cliffs for plants and flowers4 ,half-past #g1 and ,captain ,knight below1 waiting for us near the mouth of the chasm4 ,the fishing-fleet is dispersing1 homeward-bound1 and we are now ready to put up paint and pencil1 and join in the general run4 ,there is nothing like a dash of peril to wake one up4 ,now that ,i am quietly sitting by the cabin candles1 ,i will sketch you our passage in4 ,these notes are usually taken on the spot2 upon the occasion of which ,i am at present speaking1 my note-book was buttoned in pretty tightly in its pocket4 ,it was blowing a gale1 but1 fortunately for us1 from the land4 ,in from sea1 the same wind would have driven all into the surf4 ,close-reefed as we were1 and under the island1 with a capital craft1 and ,captain ,knight1 the very best of sailors1 it was quite enough for us4 ,we were almost over at times4 ,the sharp1 short seas thumped our bows like sledge-hammers4 ,the spray flashed across like water from an engine4 ,there were the hum and trembling of a swiftly revolving wheel4 ,when she came into the wind for a tack1 all shook and cracked again1 and then sang on shrill and wildly as shuttle-like we shot to the next point of turning4 ,a few small islands make a net-work of channels4 ,through this entanglement we and the fishing-fleet were now making our way home1 crossing and recrossing1 shooting here and there1 singly and in pairs1 with sails black1 white1 and red--a lively and picturesque sight1 and just the prettiest play in all the world4 ,in a narrow strait leading into the harbor1 we were nearly baffled4 ,the tempest1 for to such it had increased1 at some moments1 seemed to fall upon us from above1 flattening the swells1 and sweeping the spray about as a whirlwind sweeps the dust4 ,back and forth we darted between the iron shores1 wheeling in the nick of time1 and losing nearly as often as we gained4 ,c---- and ,i lay close below the booms1 and watched the strife as one might watch a battle round the corner of a wall4 ,wrapped in heavy overcoats1 and wet and chilly1 we came1 notwithstanding1 to enjoy it vastly4 ,c---- fairly overflowed with fun and humor4 ,but what admirable sailors are these northern seamen1 in their schooner whaleboats6 the very ,tartars and ,camanches of the ocean6 ,they go off to the fishing-grounds in stormy weather1 and stay with unconquerable patience at their hard and dangerous labor4 ,under the cliffs of ,cariboo we glided into calm water1 and looked back at the dark and troubled deep1 in broad contrast with the clouds and icebergs resplendent with rosy sunlight4 ,,chapter ,,xlii4 ,,after ,,the ,,iceberg ,,of ,,belle ,,isle4--,,the ,,retreat ,,to ,,cartwright',s ,,tickle4--,,bridget ,,kennedy',s ,,cottage1 ,,and ,,the ,,lonely ,,stroll ,,over ,,cariboo4 ,,wednesday1 ,july #ac4 ,we rise with the intention of spending the day in ,belle ,isle water to the south1 around what we call the ,great ,castle ,berg--an object1 from the first1 of our particular regard4 ,the breeze freshens from the north1 but the ,captain thinks we may lie safely to the leeward of the ice1 and so sketch and write4 ,battle ,harbor has a narrow and shallow passage into the south water4 ,we have slipped through that1 and are now scudding before a pleasant northeaster1 directly toward the castle1 and the northern cape of ,belle ,isle4 ,we are having a long ground-swell1 roughened with a 8lop0 or short sea1 and the promise of high wind4 ,the fishing boats1 more out to sea1 are putting in--a signal for our retreat4 ,we confess ourselves beaten for the day1 and run for ,cartwright's ,tickle1 a small inlet1 a mile or so distant4 ,and a merry run of it we are having2 a kind of experience to which we were put yesterday afternoon4 ,wet with spray1 and chilly1 we are glad to jump ashore at ,mrs4 ,bridget ,kennedy's fishing-flake4 ,kind woman1 she was on the spot to ask us up 8to warm1 and take a drop of tea10 although no later than #aj o'clock4 ,mrs4 ,kennedy1 a smart ,irish widow of ,newfoundland1 is 8the fisherman20 and has men and maidens in her employ4 ,while the tea was really refreshing1 and the fire acceptable1 the smoke was terrible--a circumstance over which ,i wept bitterly1 wiping away the tears with one hand1 while ,i plied the hot drink with the other4 ,from this painfully affecting scene ,i was presently fain to retire to a sunny slope near by1 where ,i was soon joined by my companion in suffering1 who indulged himself1 perhaps too freely1 in remarks that reflected no great credit on the architect and builder of ,mrs4 ,kennedy's summer-house and chimney4 ,i cannot say that we wasted1 but we whiled away1 not overwillingly1 the best part of two hours1 looking around--looking across a bight of water1 at a nest of flakes and huts on the hill-side1 to which ,swiss cottages are tame--looking over upon the good woman's garden1 the merest spot of black1 in which there is nothing but soil slightly freckled with vegetation1 fenced in with old fish-net to keep out the fowls1 and a couple of goats--looking at the astonishment of our sailors over a syphon1 made from the pliant1 hollow stalk of a sea-weed1 through which water flowed from the surface of the sea into a basin placed upon the beach2 quite a magical performance they fancied it1 until explained4 ,tired of waiting for the wind to lull sufficiently for an escape back by sea1 ,i resolved to foot it over the hills to ,battle ,harbor1 and have come off alone4 ,i am sitting on the moss1 out of the breeze1 on the warm side of a crag1 8basking in the noontide sun2 disporting here like any other fly40 ,a part of the aforesaid amusement consists in scribbling these notes1 and especially the ones relating our enjoyments and trials at hospitable ,bridget ,kennedy's4 ,from the hill-top above me ,i had a wide prospect of the dark1 rough ocean2 and of darker and rougher land4 ,looking westerly1 what should ,i discover but the painter1 silent and motionless1 looking out from another hill-top8 ,beyond him1 far inland1 is a chain of purple mountains1 lording it over the surrounding tumult of brown and sterile hills1 in the mossy valleys of which1 they say1 are dwarf woods of birch and spruce1 pretty brooks1 and reaches of blue sea-water4 ,i have turned my walk back to the vessel1 into a regular holiday stroll1 jotting down from time to time whatever happens to please me4 ,these deep amphitheatres opening out of the hills to the sea1 are quite charming1 and novelties in landscape4 ,and how almost painfully still they are6 ,but for the dull roar of the surf1 they would be silent as paintings4 ,the cloudless sun1 pouring its ,july brightness into them1 gives them a hot-house sultriness2 and1 in their moist places1 almost a hot-house growth4 ,the universal moss1 the turf of the country1 carpets their depths and graceful slopes1 and lies upon their shelves like the richest rugs2 bright red1 green1 and yellow1 and sprinkled with small1 sweet-smelling flowers4 ,along the margin of the sea all is cracked and slashed1 and has no pretty beach4 ,here now is a fast little brook1 eagerly driving its spirited steed down one of these rocky cuts4 ,pleased with its speed1 it hurras and cracks its whip1 and swings its white-plumed cap1 all in its way1 as if rivers were looking on1 and cataracts were listening with delight4 ,silly rivulet6 it sounds like water in a mill-wheel1 and will in a moment more be lost in the great deep4 ,here again1 a few steps higher up the vale1 the rill expands into a pool1 daintily cushioned round its edges4 ,i lie down and drink2 kneel down and wash my hands2 wash my handkerchief and spread it in the sun to dry4 ,poor little fishes6 ,they dart and dodge about1 as if they had never felt before the look of a human face4 ,over there is a bed of grass1 luxuriant as grain1 with a sprinkling of those cotton-tufted rushes4 ,and ,i sing1 as ,i sang in my boyhood3 8,green grow the rushes1 ,o6 ',tis neither you nor ,i do know1 ,how oats1 peas1 beans1 and barley grow40 ,after this lyrical feat1 ,i straighten up1 and look all around1 to see if any one hears me1 but only catch a glimpse of a tiny waterfall2 a little virgin all in white1 spinning her silvery thread1 as she looks out of her chamber window among the rocks above4 ,for all the world6 ,here comes a fly--one of our own house flies--the same careless1 familiar fellow1 whose motto is3 8,the dwelling owes me a living40 ,now what do you expect1 you self-complacent little vagabond1 standing here on my hand1 and rubbing your head at this rate1 looking me in the face1 with all the thousand eyes you have1 and none of the modesty of bugs finely dressed1 and vastly your superior8 ,i do suppose myself the first ,yankee here1 and here you are4 ,away with you6 ,i have a mind to run up yonder soft and sunny hill-side1 and roll over and over to the bottom4 ,i did run up the hill-side1 but not to roll back to the foot of it1 on this most springy of all turfs4 ,i sat down and panted1 wiping the moisture from my forehead1 and breathing the cool ocean breeze4 ,a half hour's walk brought me over to the brow of the mountain1 with the harbor and its vessels at my feet4 ,,chapter ,,xliii4 ,,the ,,iceberg ,,of ,,the ,,figure-,,head4--,,the ,,glory ,,and ,,the ,,music ,,of ,,the ,,sea ,,at ,,evening4 ,,late in the afternoon1 and the breeze gone down4 ,we are off on the gentle rollers of the ,bay of ,st4 ,louis1 after a low1 broad iceberg1 covering1 say1 an acre of surface1 and grounded in forty fathoms of water4 ,it has upon one extremity a bulky tower of sixty feet1 on the other1 forty1 and in the middle a huge pile of ice blocks of all shapes and sizes1 the ruins of some spire4 ,while the outside of this heap of fragments is white1 with tints of green1 touched here and there with what seems to be the most delicate bronze and gilding2 every crevice1 where there is a shadow lurking1 is a blue1 the purity and softness of which cannot be described nor easily imagined4 ,to one who has any feeling for color1 it has a sentiment as sweet as any thing in all visible nature4 ,a pure1 white surface1 like this fine opaque ice1 seen through deep shade produces blue1 and such a blue as one sees in the stainless sky when it is full of warmth and light4 ,it is quite beyond the rarest ultramarine of the painter4 ,the lovely azure appears to pervade and fill the hollows like so much visible atmosphere or smoke4 ,one almost looks to see it float out of the crystal cells where it reposes1 and thin away into colorless air4 ,we have just been honored by a royal salute from the walls of the alabaster fortress4 ,our kind angels will keep us at a safer distance than we are disposed to keep ourselves4 ,a projecting table has fallen with that peculiarly startling crack1 quick as lightning and loud as thunder4 ,it seems impossible for my nerves to become accustomed to the shock4 ,i tremble1 in spite of myself1 as one does after a fright4 ,the explosion unquestionably has the voice of the earthquake and volcano4 ,to my surprise1 ,i find myself with cold feet and headache--those unfailing symptoms of sea-sickness4 ,by the painful expression of his face1 ,i suspect the painter is even worse off than myself4 ,it is impossible to avoid feeling both vexed and amused at this companionship in misery4 ,in his case1 the climax has been attained4 ,laying down box and brushes with uncommon emphasis1 he made a rapid movement to the edge of the boat1 and looked over at his own image reflected in the glassy1 oily-rolling swell1 with loud and violent demonstrations of disagreement with himself4 ,after this unhappy outbreak1 he wiped away the tears1 and returned subdued and composed to the gentler employment of the paint-box4 ,it is nearly nine o'clock in the evening1 with the downiest clouds dropped around the retiring sun4 ,what light must be behind them to fill them with such wealth of color1 and dye their front with such rich and varied red6 ,the very waves below bloom with a crimson splendor4 ,c---- has finished his pictures1 and we row around the berg1 a singularly irregular one1 both above and below the surface4 ,the surrounding water1 to the eye nearly black1 is irradiated1 star-like1 with tracts of the clear1 tender green4 ,the effect upon us is indescribably fine4 ,i think of deep down caverns of light shining up through the dark sea4 ,the blocks and bowlders1 wrecks of former towers1 which lie scattered and in heaps upon the main berg1 are like the purest alabaster on their outer and upper sides1 but of that heavenly azure in their fissures and spaces1 although wrapped in the one great shade of evening4 ,we now pause at the corner of the ice1 and look down both its northern and western fronts2 the upper stories1 to all appearance1 in rough marble--the lower1 polished as a mirror4 ,almost over us1 a ,greek-like figure-head1 sculptured from shining crystal1 gazes with serene majesty upon the white daylight in the northwest4 ,possessed with the mournful and nearly supernatural beauty1 we forget the dangers of this intimacy4 ,there is a strange fascination1 and particularly at this hour1 that draws like the fabulous music of the ,sirens4 ,we are headed homeward1 riding silently over the glassy waves4 ,the surf rings in the hollows of the iceberg1 and sounds upon the shores like the last blows of the weary day4 ,,chapter ,,xliv4 ,,cape ,,st4 ,,charles4--,,the ,,rip ,,van ,,winkle ,,berg4--,,the ,,great ,,castle ,,berg4--,,studies ,,of ,,its ,,different ,,fronts4 ,,thursday1 ,july #ad4 ,off again for the ,great ,castle ,berg4 ,the passage from ,battle ,harbor into the south waters is a shallow1 rocky lane1 and furnishes very rare studies of color in stone4 ,a large agate cut across would serve the painter very well as a sample of much that is seen here along the rough margin of this little strait4 ,wave-washed1 and sparkling with mica and crystallizations1 and tinged with green and yellow mosses soft as plush1 the rocks are frequently very beautiful4 ,foremost along the coast1 reaching southwest into the straits of ,belle ,isle1 is ,cape ,st4 ,charles1 a brown promontory1 rising1 as it recedes from the sea1 into rocky hills tinged with a pale green1 the moss-pastures of the reindeer4 ,beyond the cape is a bay with mountain shores1 not unlike those of ,lake ,george4 ,the fine smoke-like shadow along their sides is dappled with olive-green and yellowish tracts of moss and shrubbery4 ,the annual expenditure of nature1 on those poor mountains1 for clothing and decoration is very small4 ,she furnishes holiday suits of cheap and flimsy cloud1 and the showy jewelry of the passing showers1 but refuses any bounteous outlay for the rich and sumptuous apparel of green fields and forests4 ,beneath those sunny but desolate heights1 there slumbers1 in the purple1 calm waters1 an iceberg with a form and expression that harmonize with the landscape4 ,i would call it the ,rip ,van ,winkle iceberg4 ,it seems to have been lying down1 but now to be half up1 reposing upon its elbow4 ,its head1 recently pillowed on the drowsy swells1 wears a shapeless1 peaked hat1 from the tip of which is dropping silvery rain through the warm1 dreamy air4 ,between the calm and the currents1 our oarsmen are having a warm time of it4 ,i lay hold and labor until my hands smart1 and ,i feel that hot weather has come at last to ,labrador4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,no4 #e4 ,,iceberg ,,in ,,the ,,morning ,,mist4--,,whaleboat ,lith4 of ,sarony ,major ,knapp1 #ddi ,broadway ,,ny4 ,we rest in front of the ,great ,castle ,berg1 the grand capitol of the city of icebergs now in the waters of ,belle ,isle1 and1 if ,i except the ,windsor ,castle ,berg which we saw founder1 the largest we have seen1 and1 what is most likely1 the largest we ever shall see4 ,we merely guess at the dimensions4 ,sailing up the ,niagara in the little steamer1 how wide should you judge the falls to be from ,table ,rock across to the horse-shoe tower8 ,i judge this ice-front to be two-thirds that width1 and quite as high1 if not higher1 than the cataract4 ,if this were floated up into that grand bend of ,niagara1 ,i think it would fill a large part of it very handsomely1 with a tower rising sufficiently above the brink of the fall to be seen from the edge of the river for some distance above4 ,imagine the main sheet1 reaching from ,table ,rock toward the ,horseshoe1 to be silent ice1 and you will have no very wrong notion of the ice before us at this moment4 ,i do not mean to say that it has the bend of the great cataract1 for it is on this side quite devoid of flowing lines1 and abounds with the perpendicular and horizontal for about fifty feet from the water1 when the long and very level lines begin to be crossed by a fluted surface1 resembling the folds of carefully arranged drapery hanging gracefully from the serrated line at the top4 ,no other side will present this view at all4 ,change of position gives an iceberg almost as many appearances as a cumulous cloud assumes at sunset in the summer sky4 ,we have rounded an angle to the southern front1 and look upon a precipice of newly broken alabaster crowned with a lofty peak and pinnacles4 ,a slight sketch seems to satisfy the painter1 and so we pass round to the eastern or ocean side1 at which ,captain ,knight1 an experienced iceberger1 expresses both delight and surprise4 ,it is a cluster of ,alpine mountains in miniature3 peaks1 precipices1 slopes and gorges1 a wondrous multitude of shining things1 the general effect of which is imposing and sublime4 ,we have been looking out from ,battle ,island upon this for days1 and never dreamed of all this world of forms so grand and beautiful4 ,besides the main1 there are two smaller bergs1 but all nothing more than the crowning towers and spires of the great mass under the sea4 ,here is quite a little bay with two entrances1 in which the pale emerald waves dash and thunder1 washing the pearly shores1 and wearing out glassy caverns4 ,the marvellous beauty of these ices prompts one to speak in language that sounds extravagant4 ,had our forefathers lived along these seas1 and among these wonders1 we should have had a language better fitted to describe them4 ,i can easily suppose that there must be a strong descriptive element in the ,icelandic1 and even in the ,greenlandic tongues4 ,i am quite tired of the words3 emerald1 pea-green1 pearl1 sea-shells1 crystal1 porcelain and sapphire1 ivory1 marble and alabaster1 snowy and rosy1 ,alps1 cathedrals1 towers1 pinnacles1 domes and spires4 ,i could fling them all1 at this moment1 upon a large descriptive fire1 and the blaze would not be sufficiently brilliant to light the mere reader to the scene4 ,i will give it up1 at least for the present1 and remark merely that we have received what the ,french newspapers occasionally receive--a warning4 ,it came in the shape of a smart cracking of rifles in some large reverberating hall4 ,there is undoubtedly at hand the finest opportunity one could wish of witnessing an ice-fall4 ,as it is now nearly #h o'clock ,p4 ,m41 and the painting done1 we shall take a hasty leave1 and content ourselves with a distant view of ice-exhibitions1 tame as they are1 when contrasted with those more dangerously close by4 ,our men have had some trouble in keeping the boat up to the berg in the right place for painting1 7so powerful is the current on this side setting away17 and are glad of a change4 ,,chapter ,,xlv4 ,,the ,,sail ,,for ,,st4 ,,charles ,,mountain4--,,the ,,salmon ,,fishers4--,,the ,,cavern ,,of ,,the ,,st4 ,,charles ,,mountain4--,,burton',s ,,cottage4--,,magnificent ,,scene ,,from ,,st4 ,,charles ,,mountain4--,,the ,,painting ,,of ,,the ,,rip ,,van ,,winkle ,,berg4--,,the ,,ice-,,vase1 ,,and ,,the ,,return ,,by ,,moonlight4 ,,our sails are up1 and we glide landward1 stopping to warm at a hut on a rocky islet4 ,two young fellows1 engaged here in the salmon fishery1 welcomed us to their cabin1 and soon made their rusty old cooking-stove hot enough4 ,the salmon are taken very much like our river shad1 in nets set in sheltered waters4 ,we have frequently sailed past them1 and seen the salmon entangled in the meshes at quite a depth in the clear sea water1 where they have the singular appearance of yellow serpents writhing and bounding in the folds of the seine--an optical illusion caused by the distorting and magnifying effects of the rolling surface4 ,these young fishermen have several hogsheads filled1 and are about closing up for the season4 ,they were not a little amused with the idea of our coming so far to visit icebergs1 but expressed surprise that we would run the risk of being close about them in such warm weather4 ,after a walk over their island1 the merest crest of rough rocks1 in a storm washed very nearly from end to end1 we set off for ,st4 ,charles ,mountain1 quite lofty and rising perpendicularly from the sea4 ,it is gashed and pierced with black chasms1 some of which are whitened with a kind of snowy glacier4 ,we are now approaching a cavern to all appearance spacious enough for the dusk of a very pretty little twilight1 with a doorway fifty feet in width and a clear three hundred feet high4 ,the summit of the hill is six hundred and twenty feet above the tide1 and the square-headed portal reaches all but half-way up4 ,the ocean goes deep home to the precipice1 and so we sail right in4 ,with the wet1 black walls and the chilly shade behind1 we look back upon the bright1 sparkling sea and the shining icebergs4 ,the sound of the waves rings and rolls through the huge space like the deep bass of a mighty organ4 ,we retreat slowly1 rising and sinking on the dark1 inky swells coming in1 and steer for ,mr4 ,burton's1 the sole inhabitant of the small bay close by1 where we hope for supper4 ,between our landing and the supper1 two hours passed1 during which ,c---- painted the ,rip ,van ,winkle berg1 and ,i ascended the mountain4 ,crossing a little dell to the west of the house1 through which flow a couple of tinkling rills bordered with rank grass1 and sheeted with flowers white and fragrant1 ,i struck the foot of a small glacier1 or chasm filled with perpetual snow1 and commenced the ascent4 ,at first ,i was pleased with the notion of climbing this mer-de-neige1 and went up right merrily1 crossing and recrossing1 stepping sharply into the thawing surface in order to secure a good foothold4 ,but as ,i wound my way up the cold track1 beginning to be walled in by savage crags1 it seemed so lonesome1 and sounded so hollow below1 and looked so far down and steep behind me1 that ,i became suspicious1 and afraid1 and timidly crept out upon its icy edge1 and leaped to the solid cliff4 ,by this time ,i was too warm with a heavy overcoat1 and left it hanging upon a rock against my return4 ,cold and windy as it was1 ,i was glowing with heat when ,i reached the top4 ,the prospect was a new one to me1 although long accustomed to mountain views1 and more impressive than any thing of the kind ,i can remember4 ,rather more than half of the great circle was filled with the ocean2 the remainder was ,labrador1 a most desolate extent of small rocky mountains1 faintly tinted here and there with a greenish gray1 and frequently slanting down to lakes and inlets of the sea4 ,it may be said that ,neptune1 setting his net of blue waters along this solitary land1 sprung it at last and caught it full of these bony hills1 so hopelessly hard and barren1 that he1 poor old fellow1 appears to have thought it never worth his trouble to look after either net or game4 ,quite in the interior were a few summits higher than the ,st4 ,charles1 the one upon which ,i was standing4 ,the sun was looking red and fiery through long lines and bars of dun clouds1 and shed his rays in streams that bathed the stern and gloomy waste with wonderful brightness4 ,seaward1 the prospect exceeds any power of mine at description4 ,i have no expectation of witnessing again any such magnificence in that field of nature4 ,poets and painters will hereafter behold it1 and feel how suggestive it is of facts and truths1 past1 present1 and to come4 ,the coast--that irregular and extended line far north1 and far away south and west1 upon which the ocean and the continent embrace and wrestle--with its reefs and islets1 inlets1 bays1 and capes1 waves breaking into snowy foam1 twilight shadows streaming out upon the sea from behind the headlands1 and the lights of sunset glancing through the gorges and valleys of the shore1 all combined to weave a fringe of glory both for land and ocean4 ,the sky over the ocean was of great extent1 and gave a wonderful breadth and vastness to the water4 ,there was truly 8the face of the deep40 ,and a most awful1 yet a glorious countenance it was1 and most exquisitely complexioned1 reflecting faintly both the imagery and the hues of heaven1 the bright1 the purple and the blue1 the saffron and the rosy4 ,belle ,isle1 with its steep shores reddening with light1 lay in the south1 lovely to look upon but desolate in reality1 and often fatal to the mariner4 ,looking farther south and southwest1 a dark line lay along the sky--the coast of ,newfoundland4 ,i was looking up the straits of ,belle ,isle4 ,all the sea in that quarter1 under the last sunlight1 shone like a pavement of amethyst1 over which all the chariots of the earth might have rolled1 and all its cavalry wheeled with ample room4 ,wonderful to behold6 it was only a fair field for the steepled icebergs1 a vast metropolis in ice1 pearly white and red as roses1 glittering in the sunset4 ,solemn1 still1 and half-celestial scene6 ,in its presence1 cities1 tented fields1 and fleets dwindled into toys4 ,i said aloud1 but low3 8,the ,city of ,god6 ,the sea of glass6 the plains of heaven06 ,the sweet notes of a wood-thrush1 now lost in the voices of the wind1 and then returning with soft murmurs of the surf1 recalled me from the reverie into which ,i had lapsed unconsciously1 and ,i descended carefully the front of the mountain until ,i stood just above the portal of the lofty cavern into which we had sailed4 ,the fishing-boats in a neighboring cove1 moored for the night1 appeared like corks upon the dark water1 and ,burton's house like the merest box4 ,he was just ashore from his salmon-nets1 and was tossing the shining fishes from his boat to the rocks4 ,i counted seven4 ,coming round upon the northern slope1 ,i was tempted by the mossy footing to try the reindeer method1 and went bounding to the right and left until ,i was brought up waist-deep in a thicket of crisp and fragrant evergreens4 ,when ,i say thicket1 do not fancy any ordinary cluster of shrubs1 such as is common1 for example1 among the ,catskills4 ,this1 of which ,i am speaking1 and which is found spotting these cold hill-sides1 is a perfect forest in miniature1 covering a space twenty or thirty feet across1 compact as a phalanx of soldiery1 and from three feet to six inches high4 ,in fact1 it reminds me of a train-band standing straight and trim1 and bristling with bayonets4 ,the little troop looked as if it was marching up the mountain1 the taller ones in front1 and the little inch-fellows following in the rear1 all keeping step and time4 ,there are gentlemen on the ,hudson and around our cities1 that would give a thousand dollars for such a tiny little wood4 ,it is an exquisite curiosity1 and must excel the dwarf shrubbery of the ,japanese4 ,the little trees--no mere yearlings playing forest--are venerable with moss and lichens1 and bear the symbols of suffering and experience4 ,all are well-developed1 complete trees1 mimicking the forms and the ways of majestic firs4 ,the lower boughs droop with a sad1 mournful air1 and their pointed tops look up into the sunshine and down upon the minute shrubbery below1 with the gloomy repose of dark1 old pines4 ,it made me laugh4 ,as ,i waded through the pigmy woods1 running my fingers through the loftier tops1 as ,i would run them through the hair of a curly-headed child1 and stepping over hills and dales of green forest1 ,i was highly amused1 both at the little woodlands and the moral of the thing4 ,cutting an armful of the sweet-scented branches1 and thinking of the children at home as ,i dinted the mossy pincushions bright as worsted-work all over the ground1 ,i hastened to regain my coat1 and get down to the fisherman's4 ,the painter soon came in1 when we sat down to an excellent supper of tea and fried salmon1 and presently set sail by moonlight4 ,among the incidents of painting the berg1 ,c---- related one of some novelty4 ,it was in deep water1 but close to the shore1 and so nicely poised that it was evidently standing tiptoe-like on some point1 and vibrating largely at every discharge of ice4 ,near by as it was1 he could paint from the shore with security--a rare chance in summer4 ,a heavier fall than usual from the part fronting the land was followed by correspondingly large vibrations1 leaving the berg1 after it had settled to rest1 leaning toward the sea with new exposures of ice4 ,among these was an isolated mass resembling a superbly fashioned vase4 ,quite apart from the parent berg1 and close to the rocks1 it first appeared slowly rising out of the sea like some work of enchantment1 ascending higher and higher until it stood1 in the dark waters before him1 some twenty feet in height--a finely proportioned vase1 pure as pearl or alabaster1 and shining with the tints of emerald and sapphire throughout its manifold flutings and decorations4 ,it was actually startling4 ,as it was ascending from the sea1 the water in the ,titanic vase1 an exquisite pale green1 spouted in all directions from the corrugated brim1 and the waves leaped up and covered its pedestal and stem with a drift of sparkling foam4 ,while in the process of painting this almost magical and beautiful apparition1 nearly one half of the bowl burst off with the crack of a rifle1 and fell with a heavy plunge into the sea4 ,how much in olden times would have been made of this6 ,in the twilight of truth it is easy to see that there is but a step1 an easy and a willing step1 from plain facts into wild and fanciful forms of superstition4 ,on our way back to harbor1 we passed the ,rip ,van ,winkle iceberg1 and saw his broken goblet pale and spectral in the moonlight4 ,how lengthy will be the slumbers of the venerable wanderer beneath the shadows of the mountain1 there is none but the hospitable ,burtons to report4 ,for their sakes1 whose salmon-nets his ponderous movements along shore have greatly disturbed1 it is to be hoped he will speedily perish and be buried where he is1 or wake up and be off to sea with the dignity befitting an iceberg of so much character4 ,,chapter ,,xlvi4 ,,after ,,our ,,last ,,iceberg4--,,the ,,isles4--,,twilight ,,beauties ,,of ,,icebergs4--,,midnight ,,illumination4 ,,friday1 ,july #ae4 ,this is another of the summer days of ,labrador1 with a soft1 southerly wind1 tempting one to ramble in spite of musquitoes and black flies1 which1 though few1 are uncommonly pestilent4 ,the painter is sleeping from very weariness1 and ,i am loitering about these cliffs1 note-book in hand1 in a drowsy state1 for a similar reason4 ,these long days and late hours about headlands and icebergs are attended with their pains as well as pleasures4 ,from the tenor of my pages one would think that all was joyous and interesting4 ,let him reflect1 that for his sake ,i record the joyous and the interesting1 and pass by the dull and the vexatious4 ,i flit from frowning cliff to cliff where the surf thunders and ,leviathan spends his holiday among the capelin1 and linger in the sunshine and shadow of an iceberg1 the choicest among fifty1 but give you but a suspicion of the common things between4 ,the sparkling points of the life of this novel voyage are for the reader's eye2 the chill and the weariness1 and the sea-sickness1 and the mass of things1 lumpish and brown in 8the light of common day10 are for that tomb of the ,capulets away back in the fields of one's own memory4 ,but to return3 this kind of life begins to wear upon us1 to wear upon the nerves1 and suggests the importance of keeping dull and still awhile4 ,i find myself looking towards home1 looking that way over the sea from the hill-tops1 and rather dreading the rough and tumble and chances of the journey4 ,i regret that time will not permit a continuation of the voyage1 at least as far as ,sandwich ,bay1 where the mountains are now covered with snow4 ,we shall visit1 this afternoon and evening1 our last iceberg1 and mainly for some experiments with lights4 ,the rocks here1 among which ,i saunter1 are a kind of gallery tufted with wild grass and herbage1 up to which a few goats climb from the dwellings near our vessel1 and upon a patch of which ,i lounge and scribble4 ,if there were any spirit in me1 the fine prospect1 although somewhat familiar1 would awaken some fresh thoughts and feelings4 ,one thought comes swelling up from the sluggish depths--it is this3 ,there is a fascination in these northern seas1 with their ices and their horrid shores4 ,the arctic voyagers feel and act under its impulse4 ,i can understand their readiness to return to polar scenes4 ,late in the afternoon1 sailing up the bay1 after an ugly iceberg of no particular shape or remarkable attraction4 ,in ,new ,york ,bay1 it would be thought a most splendid thing1 and so indeed it would be2 but here1 in contrast with the great berg of ,belle ,isle water1 and many others1 it is a small matter1 a harmless and dull specimen of its kind4 ,its merit is its convenience4 ,and yet1 let me tell you1 we pause in our approach at a distance of seventy yards4 ,i am not willing to go any nearer upon this1 the cliff side4 ,the agent1 ,mr4 ,bendle1 told us this morning1 that when he first came from ,england to these shores1 he was fond of playing about icebergs1 and once rowed a boat under a lofty arch1 passing quite through the berg1 a thing that he could not now be persuaded to attempt4 ,the wind blows rather strongly1 and we lie to the leeward of the ice1 rolling quite too much for painting4 ,there is no accounting for these currents which flow in upon1 and flow away from these bergs4 ,the submarine ice so interferes with the upper and lower streams that the surface water rolls and whirls in a manner upon which you cannot calculate4 ,under the leeward here1 one would naturally suppose that the current would set toward the ice1 and require an effort on our part to keep away4 ,the contrary is the case4 ,two good oars are busy in order to hold us up to our present position4 ,the wind and the swell increase1 and so we make sail and scud to some small islands distant half a mile4 ,we moor our boat under the shelter of the rocks and clamber up1 look around upon the ruins washed and rusty1 and take a run4 ,at seven o'clock ,i sit down on the warm side of a crag1 and look about with the intention of seeing what there is worth looking at in a spot to which one might flee who was tired of seeing too much4 ,upon the word of a quiet man1 ,i find myself in the very middle of the beautiful1 and ought to be thankful that we are here1 and wish that we might be suffered to come again4 ,and what is there here8 ,wise men have written volumes over less4 ,i do not know but here are groups of the ,south ,sea ,isles in miniature4 ,for example1 separated from us by a narrow gulf of water1 and such clear1 bright water1 is an islet with a ridge1 a kind of half-moon crest1 carpeted with olive-tinted moss1 over which the lone sun pours a stream of almost blinding light4 ,what glory the ,god of nature sheds upon these rugged outworks of the earth6 ,the painter that could faithfully repeat upon canvas this one effect of light would leave ,claude and ,cole1 and the like1 far enough behind to be forgotten4 ,the wind is lulling2 the sun touches and seems to burn the crest of the island opposite1 after eight o'clock4 ,c---- is finishing a sketch2 the ,captain and ,i have been hunting the sea-pigeons' nests1 a pair of which keep flying off and on2 and now the men are making the boat ready for our twilight and evening play around 8the ugly iceberg40 ,how glad the poor little family of ducks must be1 from whose home we have driven them1 that we are going away4 ,they have been pretending to swim off1 and yet have managed to keep back near enough to watch us over the shoulder1 ever since we arrived4 ,timid1 cunning fellows1 how much they appear to know6 ,a stone disperses them1 some to the wing and some to the bottom2 and now here they are again1 all riding the same swell1 and seeming to swim away while they watch our motions1 continually turning their slick1 black heads quickly over the shoulder4 ,if you would look upon the perfectly white and pure1 see an iceberg between you and the day's last red heavens4 ,if you would behold perfect brilliancy1 gaze at the crest of an iceberg cutting sharply into those same red heavens4 ,to all appearance it will burn and scintillate like a crown of costly gems4 ,in all its notched1 zigzag and flowing outline1 it palpitates and glitters as if it were bordered with the very lightning4 ,he that watches the ,andean clouds of a ,july sunset1 and beholds them rimmed1 now with pink and rose-hues1 and now with golden fire1 will see the edges of an iceberg when it stands against the sky glowing with the yellow and orange blaze of sunset4 ,we go to the skies for pure azure2 you will find it at twilight in these wonderful ,greenland ices4 ,i am looking now upon what mimics the ruins of a tower1 every block of which1 in one light1 gleams like crystal2 in another1 as if they had been quarried from the divinest sky4 ,cloud-like and smoke-like1 they look light as the cerulean air4 ,this1 as ,i have said already1 is the effect of perfect white seen through deep1 transparent shadow4 ,true azure is the necessary result4 ,more than enough1 it would seem1 has been said of these forms and colors4 ,but really the eye never wearies of these arctic palaces so grandly corniced and pillared2 these sculptures so marvellously draped4 ,as we gaze at them1 even in this meagre and common berg1 under this delicate light veiled with the dusk of evening1 they are astonishing in their beauty4 ,i look at them with joyful emotions1 with wonder and with love4 ,why do they not rustle with a silken1 satin rustle8 ,after dark1 we sailed round to the northern extremity1 where from the lowness of the ice it was more safe to approach it1 and dropped sail in order to experiment with the blue lights furnished us by the governor4 ,rowing up quite closely1 within eight yards perhaps1 ,c----1 who stood ready upon the bow1 fired a couple4 ,in the smoke and glare 8we were a ghastly crew10 while the berg was rather obscured than beautified4 ,we then rowed round to the side where the current was setting rapidly towards the ice1 and launched a flaming tar-barrel4 ,with a stone for ballast1 it kept upright1 and floated in fine style directly into the face of the berg--an irregular cliff of sixty feet1 pierced with caverns4 ,it was kept for some time under a succession of the brightest flashes of pink light4 ,upon one slope of the swells the sheaf of red flames gushing from the barrel would be turned from1 on the other1 toward the ice4 ,thus the whole eastern front was kept changing from light to darkness1 from darkness to light4 ,as the brightness was flung back and forth from the sea to the berg1 and from the berg to the sea1 the effect was exceedingly novel and beautiful4 ,when the swells bore the full-blown torch into a cave1 and its ruddy tongues were licking the green1 glassy arches1 we hoisted sail and went gaily bounding back to harbor4 ,for a while1 the fire shot its fitful rays over the lonely waters1 and gleamed 8like a star in the midst of the ocean40 ,at last it was quenched in the distant gloom4 ,a ghostly figure with dim outline was all that was visible1 and our work and play with icebergs were over--over forever4 ,it was midnight and past1 when we dropped sails alongside the vessel1 after a quick run1 enlivened1 as we entered the harbor1 by a sudden display of the northern-light4 ,,chapter ,,xlvii4 ,,farewell ,,to ,,battle ,,harbor4--,,the ,,straits ,,of ,,belle ,,isle4--,,labrador ,,landscapes4--,,the ,,wreck ,,of ,,the ,,fishermen4 ,,saturday1 ,july #af4 8,once more upon the waters1 yet once more40 ,we were awakened from sound slumbers by the footsteps and voices of the men above1 making ready for sea4 ,it was a pleasant sound1 and the sunshine streaming down into the cabin was welcome intelligence of the brightness of the morning4 ,we dressed in time to get on deck1 and wave a final adieu to our friends1 from whom we had formally parted yesterday1 as well as from ,mr4 and ,mrs4 ,bendle1 of whose hospitality we bear away agreeable recollections4 ,and now the broad ,atlantic is before1 and ,cape ,st4 ,louis1 its waters and its ices1 behind the intervening islands4 ,the signal staffs of ,battle and ,cariboo ,islands are yet visible from the high rocks that overlook that busy nest of fishermen1 with its steepled church and parsonage4 ,god's love abide with the man that lives there1 and ministers to the religious wants of men1 women1 and children1 who have little else than respect and affection to make his home comfortable and happy4 ,while kind hearts1 and none kinder than those of the ,esquimaux1 throb beneath rough manners and uncomely raiment1 there are wicked spirits there1 no doubt1 as everywhere1 that hurt and hinder1 and never help1 and render the solitary path among the rocks insufferably lonesome and painful4 ,the remembrances of famous and beloved kindred1 of old and honored ,cambridge1 and of the quiet rectory under the ,malvern ,hills1 are much to a cultivated and sensitive nature2 the bliss that flows from daily duties cheerfully done with an habitual resignation to the will of ,god1 and with hopes of glory in the future1 is more than recollections1 to a heart whose motive powers are ,christian faith and love4 ,but amid all the sweetest memories1 and the brightest hopes1 and the comforting satisfaction of believing well and doing well1 it is a fearful thing for cultivated man to toil in solitude and deprivation4 ,although heaven is above him1 and his pathway certainly upward1 yet a double portion of all those good and perfect gifts coming from above1 be awarded to the man whose parish is in ,labrador2 who1 when he leaves the still companionship of books for the toils of the gospel from door to door1 must take down either his oars or his snow-shoes1 and sweep over the snow-drift or the billow4 ,we now beat slowly up the straits of ,belle ,isle for the ,gulf of ,st4 ,lawrence1 hoping to pass these dangerous waters by daylight4 ,they are very fair to look upon at this time of day1 studded in all directions with those shining palaces of ice seen from the top of ,st4 ,charles ,mountain4 ,the coast hills have a graceful outline1 and slant quite smoothly down1 abutting on the sea in low broken cliffs4 ,they resemble the hills of ,maine and ,canada after ,april thaws1 while the heavier snow-drifts yet remain1 and the yellow brown sod is patched with faint green4 ,forsaken country6 if that can be called forsaken which appears never to have been possessed4 ,doleful and neglected land6 ,chilly solitude keeps watch over your unvisited fields1 and frightens away the glory of the fruitful seasons4 ,the loving sunshine and the healing warmth wander hand in hand tenderly abroad1 calling upon the lowly moss to wake up and blossom1 and to the tiny1 half-smothered1 flattened willows to rise and walk along the brook banks4 ,but the white-coated police of winter1 the grim snow-drifts1 watch on the craggy battlements of desolation1 and luxuriance and life peep from their dark cells only to sink back pale and spiritless4 ,to a traveller there is real beauty on the tawny desert and the wild prairie2 but there is to me an awful lonesomeness and gloom in these houseless wastes where the eye with an insane perverseness will keep looking for cottage smokes and pasture fences4 ,i think of landscapes drying off after the flood4 ,the bergs are in part behind us1 and we are rocking on the easy swells of ,henly ,harbor1 where we can glean no more signs of human 8toil and trouble0 than are just enough to tie a name to1 and quite a pretty name too4 ,the lazy sails flap idly in the sunshine1 and the cold air cuts with the sharpness of a frosty ,october morning4 ,i sit in the ,july heat with overcoat1 and cloak over the overcoat1 woollen mittens and woollen stockings1 and with cold feet at that4 ,and yet this miserable shore has1 in its cod and salmon1 attractions for thousands of people during the transient summer4 ,even the long and almost arctic winter with its seals and foxes detains hundreds4 ,but1 as a fisherman told me one day1 while tossing upon the dock with his pitchfork a boat-load of cod1 8,it is a poor trade40 ,it is a little trying to patience to be rolling in this idle way1 with the creak of spars and the rattling of blocks and rigging1 especially as a breeze has been winging the blue water for an hour not more than a mile ahead of us4 ,we do move a little1 just a little1 enough to keep the hope breathing that we shall soon move off with reasonable speed4 ,the current is almost a river stream1 and we are drifting rapidly1 which is not a pleasant thing to be thinking about1 with these waters scouring the very banks1 and a short cable4 ,i am gazing back upon the southern point of ,belle ,isle with a mournful interest4 ,it was only the night of the second1 the same night we ran into ,twillingate to escape a gale1 that a vessel was lost there1 and all1 or nearly all1 on board perished4 ,at this moment there is a faint line of white1 but not a murmur4 ,all looks quiet there and peaceful1 as if the lion was going up to lie down with the lamb4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,no4 #f4 ,,iceberg ,,in ,,the ,,strait ,,of ,,belle ,,isle ,lith4 of ,sarony ,major ,knapp1 #ddi ,broadway ,,ny4 ,,chapter ,,xlviii4 ,,sketching ,,the ,,passing ,,bergs4--,,the ,,story ,,of ,,an ,,iceberg4 ,,the painter is a model of industry1 sketching and painting the bergs as we pass them4 ,they are now clustered on the northern horizon1 with a few exceptions4 ,we have been for some time near one1 out of which might be cut an entire block of ,broadway buildings1 evidently presenting the same upper surface that it had when it slid as a glacier from the polar shore4 ,if such is the fact1 we infer that in its long glacial experience it could not have remained long near any mass of earth higher than itself1 for there is not a stone or particle of dust or earthy stain upon it4 ,it is as spotless as a cloud 8after the tempest40 ,how beautiful is the sentiment of it6 ,it carries the imagination away to those heavenly walls depicted in ,revelation1 and sends it back upon the track of its own story4 ,the story of an iceberg6 yes1 indeed2 and a most wonderful tale would it be1 could it be truthfully written4 ,it would run up into1 and become lost in the story of the great glaciers of ,greenland2 the half of which science itself has not learned1 profoundly as it has penetrated the mysteries of the ,alpine glaciers4 ,there are valleys reaching from the interior to the coast1 filled with glaciers of great depth and breadth1 which move forward with an imperceptible but regular motion4 ,the continent1 as one might call ,greenland1 does not shed the bulk of its central waters in fluid rivers1 but discharges them to the ocean in solid1 crystalline1 slowly progressing streams4 ,they flow1 or rather march1 with irresistible1 mighty force1 and far-resounding footsteps1 crossing the shore line1 a perpetual procession of block-like masses1 flat or diversified with hill and hollow on the top1 advancing upon the sea until too deeply immersed longer to resist the buoyant power and pressure of the surrounding waters1 when they break upwards1 and float suspended in the vast oceanic abyss4 ,the van of the glacial host1 previously marked off by fissures into ranks1 rushes from the too close embrace of its new element1 and wheels away1 an iceberg--the glistening planet of the sea1 whose mazy1 tortuous orbit none can calculate but ,him who maps the unseen currents of the main4 ,when and where1 on the lengthy ,greenland coast1 did this huge block make the grand exchange of elements8 ,which1 if any of these great buildings 8not made with hands10 now whitening the blue fields of ,neptune1 followed or preceded it8 ,what have been its solemn rounds8 ,through what winters has it slept1 and caught the snows upon the folds of its sculptured draperies8 ,how many summers has it bared its spotless bosom to the sun and rains8 ,what nights of auroral splendors have glassed their celestial countenance in its shining mirrors8 ,what baths and vases of blue water have opened their pure depths to moon and stars8 ,what torrents and cascades have murmured in its glassy chasms1 crystal grottoes1 ,alpine dells8 ,and who shall count its battles with the waves and tempests1 when with the surf about its shoulders and among its locks1 and the clouds around its brow1 it stood far up from the unsounded valleys of ocean 8tiptoe on the mountain top08 ,in the defiles and gorges of the ,arctic coast are prodigious accumulations of ice--the congelation of small streams flowing from the adjacent mountains--the glaciers of the coast range1 in short4 ,these gradually encroach upon1 and overhang the sea2 and are continually breaking off1 from the undermining of the waves which beat at their base4 ,such is the depth of water1 that the hugest avalanche of ice can fall with safety to itself1 and float away4 ,when1 and in what bay or inlet1 may this ,great ,northern have been launched8 ,out of what gloomy fiord may have rolled the billows1 after its icy fastenings were loosed1 and it slid1 with the thunder of an earthquake1 down its slippery ways1 and plunged into the black deep8 ,until science have her beaten pathway over polar waves and hills1 and measure the rain-falls and the snow-falls1 and the freezings of the one and the compactings of the other1 the story of the glacier and the iceberg1 in their native land and seas1 will be left1 in part1 to the imagination--a faculty1 after all1 that will ever deal with those wonderful ices about as satisfactorily as the faculty that judges according to the sense1 as ,bishop ,leighton calls the mere scientific faculty4 ,the truth of this is illustrated by the very icebergs about us4 ,emphatically as they speak to the naturalist with his various instrumentalities1 they speak1 at the same moment1 with marvellous eloquence to the poet and the painter4 ,there are forces1 motions1 and forms1 voices1 beauties1 and a sentiment1 which escape the touch of science1 and are scarcely caught by the subtle1 poetic mind4 ,icebergs1 to the imaginative soul1 have a kind of individuality and life4 ,they startle1 frighten1 awe2 they astonish1 excite1 amuse1 delight and fascinate2 clouds1 mountains and structures1 angels1 demons1 animals and men spring to the view of the beholder4 ,they are a favorite playground of the lines1 surfaces and shapes of the whole world1 the heavens above1 the earth and the waters under3 of their sounds1 motions and colors also4 ,these are the poet's and the painter's fields1 more than they are the fields of the mere naturalist1 much as they are his4 ,do not these fifty bergs1 in sight from any crag frowning in its iron strength above the surf1 speak more a living language to the creative1 than to the mensural faculty8 ,let us see4 ,they have a daily experience1 and a current history more remarkable now than ever4 ,whatever may have been the wonders of their conception1 birth and growth2 however lengthy and devious their voyage1 they are present in these strange seas1 in these tepid waters and soft airs1 to undergo their last1 fatal changes1 and dissolve forever into their final tomb4 ,there are fifty icebergs1 more or less4 ,apparently similar in appearance1 yet each differs widely from all others4 ,exhibiting similar phenomena1 yet each has complexions1 movements1 sounds and wonders of its own4 ,if we choose1 though1 to add to the performances of to-day1 those of yesterday and to-morrow1 we shall find that the experience of any one berg closely resembles that of all4 ,the entire circle of its looks and doings corresponds with the circle of nearly every other berg1 and so of all together1 differing merely in the matter of time--as to when the changes take place4 ,the description upon which ,i will venture1 and which might be gleaned from the foregoing pages1 is1 therefore1 strictly true1 except that the phases and accidents are supposed to occur in rapid succession4 ,in a word1 what you would behold in all of these fifty1 within twenty-four hours1 you are to fancy of one1 in the course of an afternoon4 ,i have before me1 in my mind's eye1 the ,windsor ,castle berg1 fresh from the north1 and the ,great ,castle berg1 of ,belle ,isle water1 which it entered early last ,may1 and as large1 at the time of its arrival1 as both of them at present combined4 ,and so ,i am looking at a veritable berg of ,cape ,st4 ,louis1 small1 though1 in comparison with the berg of ,cape ,st4 ,francis1 8a vast cathedral of dazzling white ice1 with a front of #bej feet perpendicular from the sea10 visited by the ,bishop of ,newfoundland in the summer of #ahec4 ,i will describe1 first1 the figure of the berg4 ,it is a combination of ,alp1 castle1 mosque1 ,parthenon and cathedral4 ,it has peaks and slopes2 cliffs1 crags1 chasms and caverns2 lakes1 streams and waterfalls4 ,it has towers1 battlements and portals4 ,it has minarets1 domes and steeples2 roofs and gables2 balustrades and balconies2 fronts1 sides and interiors2 doors1 windows and porches2 steps and entrances2 columns1 pilasters1 capitals and entablatures2 frieze1 architrave and cornice2 arches1 cloisters1 niches1 statuary and countless decorations2 flutings1 corrugations1 carvings1 panels of glassy polish and in the rough2 ,greek1 ,roman1 ,gothic1 ,saracenic1 ,pagan1 ,savage4 ,it is crested with blades and needles2 heaped here and there with ruins1 blocks and bowlders1 splintered and crumbled masses4 ,this precipice has a fresh1 sharp fracture2 yonder front1 with its expanse of surface beautifully diversified with sculptured imagery and other ornament1 has the polish of ivory--the glassy polish of mirrors--the enamel of sea-shells--the fierce brightness of burnished steel--the face of rubbed marble--of smoothest alabaster--of pearl--porcelain--lily-white flesh--lily-white wax--the flesh-finish of beauty done in the spotless stone of ,italy4 ,this1 though1 is but the iceberg of the air2 the head and crown only of the iceberg of the deep sea4 ,from the figure of the berg1 ,i will come to describe an important feature of its life and history3 its motion2 not its movement from place to place1 but upon its centre--its rotation and vibration4 ,where the berg is not grounded--in which case it only beats and sways to and fro1 vibrating through the arc of a circle like an inverted pendulum--when it is not grounded1 it must be supposed to hang suspended at the surface--all but the topmost part--just under the surface of the ocean1 very much as a cloud1 a great white thunder-head1 hangs suspended in the upper air4 ,balanced around its heart1 far down in the deep1 and in its cold solidity 8dry as summer dust0--poised upon its centre with perfect exactness1 it is evident that the loss of a single ton of ice shifts that centre1 shifts it an ounce-notch on the bar of the mighty scale1 destroys the equilibrium1 and subjects the whole to the necessity of some small movement in order to regain its rest4 ,when1 instead of one ton1 thousands fall off1 it sets a rolling the whole clifted and pinnacled circumference4 ,and here begins that exhibition of novel forms and shapes1 and of awful force1 and the sublimity of stupendous masses in motion1 that so impresses1 awes1 startles1 and fascinates the beholder4 ,a berg in repose1 wondrous as it is to him that dares to linger in its presence1 differs from itself in action1 as a hero in his sleep differs from himself upon the field of battle4 ,with regard to the motions of the berg1 it must be borne in mind1 that1 from the fact of its centre being not on a level with the surface of the sea1 but at depths below1 they are quite different from what might at first be imagined4 ,a rough globe1 revolving upon its axis1 with but a small portion of its bulk1 say a twelfth1 above the water2 or1 better still1 the hub and spokes merely of a common wagon wheel1 slowly rolling back and forth1 will serve for illustration4 ,the uppermost spoke1 in its vibrations to the right and left1 describes a line of some extent along the surface1 not unlike an upright stick moving to and fro1 and gradually rising and sinking as it moves4 ,in this movement back and forth1 the two adjacent spokes will be observed to emerge and disappear correspondingly4 ,in this way1 a berg of large diameter1 instead of falling over upon the sea like a wall or precipice1 appears to advance bodily1 slowly sinking as it comes1 with a slightly increasing inclination toward you4 ,in its backward roll1 this is reversed4 ,it seems to be retreating1 slowly rising as it floats away1 with a slightly increasing inclination from you4 ,in these grand vibrations1 projecting points and masses of opposite sides correspondingly emerge and disappear1 rising apparently straight up out of the sea on this side1 going down as straight on the other4 ,from the figure and motion of the berg1 ,i come to describe the motive power1 rather the explosive power1 through which the delicate balance is destroyed1 and motion made a necessity in order to gain again equilibrium and rest4 ,whatever may be the latent heat of ice1 is a question for the professed naturalist4 ,two things are evident to the unlearned observer3 an iceberg is as solid as ivory1 or marble from the lowest depths of a quarry1 and cold apparently as any substance on the earth can be made4 ,this compact and perfectly frozen body1 immersed in the warm seas of summer1 and warmer atmosphere1 finds its entire outside1 and especially that portion of it which is exposed to the ,july sun1 expanding under the influence of the penetrating heat4 ,the scrutiny of science would1 no doubt1 find it certain that this heat1 in some measure1 darts in from all sides in converging rays to the very heart4 ,the expanding power of heat becomes at length an explosive force1 and throws off1 with all the violence and suddenness of gunpowder1 in successive flakes1 portions of the surface4 ,the berg1 then1 bursts from expansion1 as when porcelain cracks with sharp report1 suddenly and unequally heated on the winter stove4 ,judge of the report when the porcelain of a great cliff cracks and falls1 or when the entire berg is blasted asunder by the subtle1 internal fire of the summer sun6 ,if you would hear thunders1 or whole broadsides and batteries of the heaviest ordnance1 come to the iceberg then4 ,speaking incidentally of noises1 reminds me of the hues and tints of the iceberg4 ,solomon in all his glory was not clothed like the flowers of the field4 ,would you behold this berg apparelled with a glory that eclipses all floral beauty1 and makes you think1 not only of the clouds of heaven at sunrise and sunset1 but of heaven itself1 you must come to it at sunrise and at sunset4 ,then1 too1 you would hear its voices and its melodies1 the deep and mournful murmuring of the surf in its caverns4 ,hark6 ,in fancy ,i hear them now1 half thunder1 and half the music of some mighty organ4 ,and this reminds me of the sea1 which shares with the iceberg something of the glory and the power4 ,in the first place1 from the white brightness of the ice1 the eye is tuned to such a high key1 or so stimulated and bedazzled1 that the ocean is not only dark by contrast1 but dark in reality4 ,it is purple1 so deep as to amount almost to blackness--an evening violet ,i would call it1 a complexion magnificent and rich exceedingly in the blaze of noon1 and at late and early hours when the skies are full of brilliant colors4 ,what heightens the effect of this dye of the ocean1 is the pale emerald water around the berg1 and in which it floats as in a vast bath1 the loveliness1 clarity and divine beauty of which no language can paint in a way to kindle the proper feeling and emotion4 ,from ten to fifty feet in breadth1 it encircles the berg1 a zone or girdle of sky-green1 that most delicate tint of the sunset heavens1 and lies1 or plays with a kind of serpent play1 between the greenish white ice and the violet water1 as the bright deeps of air lie beyond the edge of a blue-black cloud4 ,there is no perceptible blending1 but a sharp line which follows1 between the bright and the dark1 the windings of the berg1 across which you may1 if you have the temerity1 row the bow of your whale-boat1 and gaze down1 down the fearfully transparent abyss1 until the dim ice-cliffs and the black deeps are lost in each other's awful embrace4 ,i have spoken of the figure1 motion1 and the breaking of the iceberg1 incidentally mentioning its sounds1 its colors1 and the surrounding waters4 ,you are now ready to go with us1 and spend the afternoon about it4 ,early in the morning1 and for the last hour1 all but its heights and peaks has been wrapped in cloud-like fog4 ,that1 you discover1 is thinning off1 and will presently all pass away4 ,the breeze is fresh from the north1 and we will sail down upon the north-eastern side1 until we have it between us and the #c o'clock sun4 ,we are upon soundings1 and1 as we glide from the broad sunny tract into the shadow of the berg1 the ocean should be green1 a deep green4 ,but we have been sailing with the white ice in our eyes1 and you see the ocean a dark purple4 ,the captain drops sail1 and sets the men at their oars4 ,as the current sets back from the berg--the reverse of the current below--you notice that they are pulling slowly1 but steadily forward without any perceptible advance4 ,we are distant a good hundred yards1 as near again as we ought to be for safety4 ,but this is the position for the painter1 and it will be the care of the captain to keep it1 the required time1 as nearly as possible4 ,as the broad roller lifts us lightly and gracefully1 and leaves us sinking on its after-slope1 how majestic is the silent march of it1 the noiseless flight of it6 ,but look6--look6--as it flees in all its imposing breadth of darkness1 see the great1 green star upon its breast--a spangle green as grass1 as the young spring grass in the sunshine1 gleaming like some skylight of the deep1 some emerald window in the dome of the sea-palace1 letting up the splendor4 ,what do you suppose that is8 ,it is ice1 a point of the berg pricking up into the illuminated surface and reflecting the light4 ,you will understand that better1 perhaps1 by and by4 ,but wait an instant4 ,now6--now6--,beauty strikes the billow with her magic rod1 and1 presto--change6--all is glittering green4 ,a thousand feet of purple1 cloud-like wave passes1 in the twinkling of an eye1 into the brightness of an emerald gem1 and thus rolls up and smites the iceberg4 ,and thus1 like night perpetually bursting into the splendid noon1 roll up the billows1 and strike the minutes of the hour4 ,how beautiful is the transfiguration6 ,see them split upon this angle of the castle2 and as they run along the walls1 with the whispery1 hissing sound of smoothly sliding waters1 mark how high they wash1 and sweep them with their snowy banners1 here and there bending over1 and curling into long scrolls of molten glass1 which burst in dazzling foam1 and plunge in many an avalanche of sparkling jewelry4 ,into the great porch of yonder ,parthenon they rush in crowds1 and thunder their applause upon the steps4 ,is not all this very grand and beautiful8 ,have you ever seen the like before8 ,the like of it is not to be seen upon the planet1 apart from the icebergs4 ,with cold1 fixed1 white death1 life--warm1 elastic1 palpitating1 glorious1 powerful life--is wrestling1 and will inevitably throw4 ,do you see 8the witchery of the shadows08 ,pray look aloft4 ,castle1 temple1 cliff1 all built into one1 are draped with shadows softer than the tint of doves1 the morning's early gray1 dappled with the warm pearly blues of heaven1 and edged with fire4 ,the sun is behind the ice1 and the light is pouring over4 ,a flood of light is pouring over4 ,all is edged with fire1 streaming with lightning2 all its notched and flowing edges hemmed with live1 scintillating sunshine1 ruby1 golden1 green1 and blue4 ,see you below that royal sepulchre through its crystal door8 ,beauty hangs her lamp in there1 and the sky-blue shadow looks like the fragrant smoke of it4 ,now tell me1 was there ever any thing more lovely8 ,have the poets dreamed of rarer loveliness8 ,the surf springs up like an angel from the tomb1 and1 with a shout of triumph1 strikes it with its silvery wings4 ,ha6 you start4 ,but do not be frightened4 ,it was only the cracking of the iceberg4 ,but was there ever such a blow8--quick--tremulous--ringing--penetr ating4 ,why1 it jarred the sea1 and thrilled the heart like an electric shock4 ,one feels as if the berg had dropped1 instantly dropped an inch1 and cracked to the very core4 ,captain ,knight1 shall we not fall back a little8 we are surely getting too close under4 ,while ,i have been talking1 the painter1 who sits midship1 with his thin1 broad box upon his knees1 making his easel of the open lid1 has been dashing in the colors4 ,the picture is finished1 and so1 at the word1 the men pull heavily at their oars1 and we come round upon the south-eastern1 or the cathedral front1 as ,i will call it1 from the fact that the general appearance is architectural1 and the prevailing style1 the ,gothic4 ,a dome and minaret1 curiously thrown in upon one wing of the berg1 and some elaborately cut arches opening through the water-line into the cloister-like cavern1 would suggest the ,saracenic4 ,but the pointed and the perpendicular prevail1 springing up full of life and energy1 vivid and flame-like in their forms4 ,as the berg faces1 we are getting the last glances of the #d o'clock sun1 and have broad sheets of both light and shadow4 ,you see how spirited the whole thing is4 ,it is full of brilliant1 strong effects4 ,while the hollows and depressions harbor the soft1 slaty shadows1 points and prominences fairly blaze and sparkle with sunshine4 ,the current now1 you discover1 sweeps us past the ice1 and compels us to turn about and row up the stream4 ,here is the point where all is strong and picturesque1 and here they hold on for the painter4 ,let us sit upon the little bow-deck1 and look1 and listen to the noises of the waves at play in the long1 concealed1 under-sea piazza4 ,how they slap the hollow arches6 ,hisses1 long-drawn sighs1 booming thunder-sounds1 mingle with low muttering1 plunging1 rattling1 and popping--a bedlam of all the lunatic voices of the ocean4 ,we appear to be at the edge of a shower1 such a sprinkling and spattering of drops4 ,all abroad1 and all aloft1 from every edge and gutter the iceberg spouts1 and rains1 and drips4 ,over the entire face of the ice is flowing swiftly down one noiseless river thin as glass1 looking1 for all the world1 like the perpetual falling of a transparent veil over the richest satin4 ,here and there1 the delicate stream cuts into the silvery enamel1 and engraves1 in high relief1 brilliant shields of jewelry1 diamonds1 rubies1 amethysts1 emeralds and sapphires4 ,but yonder is a rare touch of the enchanter4 ,pray1 look at it carefully4 ,it is a glistening blue line of ice1 threading the whiteness from top to bottom1 a good two hundred feet4 ,it looks as if the berg were struck1 not with lightning1 but with sapphire4 ,it is simply transparent ice1 and may be compared to a fissure filled with pellucid spring-water1 with depths of darkness beyond the visible1 illuminated edge4 ,darkness below the pure light flowing in1 and reflecting from the inner sides of the white ice1 gives us the blue4 ,you understand the process by which so beautiful a result is effected8 ,well1 the glacier of which this berg is a kind of spark1 is mainly compacted snows1 compressed to metallic hardness in the omnipotent grasp of nature4 ,as it slides on the long1 inland valley slope1 it bends and cracks4 ,the surface-water fills the crevice1 and is frozen4 ,thus the glacier is mended1 but marked forever with the splendid scar which you see before you4 ,you fancy it has the hardness of a gem2 it is softer than the flinty masses between which it seems to have been run like a casting4 ,on the opposite slope of the berg1 you will find it the channel of a torrent1 melting and wearing faster than the primitive ice4 ,how terribly startling is this explosion6 ,it resounded like a field-piece4 ,and yet you perceive only a small bank of ice floating out from below where it burst off4 ,small as it is1 the whole berg has felt it1 and is slightly rolling on its deep down centre4 ,you perceive that it is a perfectly adjusted pair of scales1 and weighs itself anew at the loss of every pound4 ,at the loss of every ounce1 the central point1 around which millions of tons are balanced1 darts aside a very little1 and calls upon the entire bulk to make ready and balance all afresh4 ,you see the process going on4 ,there1 the water-line is slowly rising2 and you peep into the long1 greenish-white hollow1 polished and winding as the interior of a sea-shell4 ,now it pauses1 and returns4 ,so will it rise and sink alternately until it stands like a headland of everlasting marble4 ,again the painter wipes his brushes1 puts away his second picture1 and tacks a fresh pasteboard within the cover of his box1 and gives the word to pull for the south-western side4 ,how finely nature sculptures her decorations6 ,would not ,palmer1 ,powers1 and others of that company1 whose poetic language is in spotless stone1 love to be with us8 ,mark the high reliefs1 and the deep1 fine fluting of this angle1 as we pass from the ,temple front to the clifted4 ,here you see less to please1 and more to terrify4 ,a word or so describes it3 ,it is a precipice of sparkling1 white ice1 freshly broken4 ,the edge of newly broken china is nearest like it1 with the suspicion of green for forty feet or more up1 the reflection of that lovely pale green water4 ,how the currents recoil and roll in upon the huge wall in whirling eddies1 requiring steady toil at the oars1 to keep off a plump two hundred yards1 the proper distance for sketching so large a perpendicular mass4 ,if we except the quality and texture of the fracture1 there is little to paint in all this blaze of sunlight4 ,the outline of the berg1 though1 is worth remembering4 ,it cuts the blue vault like the edge of a bright sword1 and pricks it with flashing spears4 ,the eye darts from point to point along its lengthy1 zig-zag and flowing thread1 and sweeps from the sea upward and over to the sea again4 ,how persistently the treacherous current labors to bear us in upon the cliff6 ,let alone the oars five minutes1 and we should be among the great rain-drops slipping from the overhanging crags4 ,horrible6 ,the berg is burst4 ,the whole upper front is coming4 ,there it is--gone in the sea4 ,keep still6--,keep still6--,don't be frightened6 ,the captain will manage it4 ,here come the big swells4 ,hurra6 ,look out for the next6 ,here we go--splendid6 ,now for the third and last4 ,how she combs as she comes4 ,hurra6--,hurra6 ,here we are--all safe--inside of them4 ,see them go6--racing over the ocean1 circles of plumed cavalry4 ,now for the berg4 ,he'll make a magnificent roll of it1 if he don't go to pieces4 ,should he1 then put us half a mile away4 ,see it rise6--,the water-line--rising--rising--up--up4 ,it looks like a carriage-way4 ,hark6--,crack--crack--crack4 ,quick6--quick6 ,look at the black water here6--all spots and spangles of green4 ,something is coming6 ,there it comes6 ,the very witchcraft of the deep--,neptune's half-acre1 bowers1 thrones1 giants1 eagles1 elephants1 vases spilling1 fountains pouring1 torrents tumbling1 glassy banks4 ,look at the peaks slanting off into the blue air1 and the great slant precipice4 ,hah6 ,don't you see8 ,it is coming again--slowly coming6 ,crack--crack--crack4 ,down sinks the garden--on roll the swells--down go bowers1 thrones1 statuary--lost amid the tumult and thunder of the surf4 ,over bends the precipice--this way over--frightfully over--in roll the waves--roaring1 thundering in--dashing1 lashing crag and chasm4 ,wonderful to see6 ,waterfalls bursting into light above--plunging in snowy columns to the sea4 ,how terrible--terrible all this is6 ,but ,o1 how beautiful6 ,who1 that does not witness it1 knows any thing of the bursting of an iceberg8 ,it comes with the crash of a thunderbolt4 ,but how can one tell the horrible1 shocking noise8 ,a pine split by lightning has the point1 but not the awful breadth and fulness of the sound4 ,air1 ocean1 and the berg1 all fairly spring at the power of it4 ,and then the ice-fall1 with its ringing1 rumbling1 crashing roar1 and the heavy1 explosion-like voice of the final plunge1 followed by the wild1 frantic dashing of the waters4 ,you see the whole upper face of the ice1 yards deep1 and scores of them in width1 all gone4 ,all was blasted off instantly1 and dropped at once1 a stupendous cataract of brilliant ruins4 ,here we are1 at last1 where the painter will revel--between the glories of sunset and the iceberg4 ,what shall we call all this magnificence1 clustered in a square quarter of a mile8 ,the ,bernese ,alps in miniature4 ,a dark violet sea1 and ,alps in burnished silver1 with the colors of the rainbow dissolving among them4 ,lofty ridges1 of the shape of flames1 have the tint of flame2 out of the purity of lilies bloom the pink and rose2 sky-blue shadows sleep in the defiles2 ,i will not say cloth of gold drapes1 but water of gold washes--water of green1 of orange1 scarlet1 crimson1 purple1 wash the crags and steeps2 strange metallic tints gleam in the shaggy caverns--copper1 bronze1 and gold4 ,endless grace of form and outline6--endless1 endless beauty6 ,its shining image is in the deep1 hanging there as in a molten looking-glass4 ,look down and see it4 ,now the last rays of day strike the berg4 ,how the hues and tints change and flit1 flush and fade6 ,a very mirror for the fleeting glories of the sunset1 or the fitful complexions of the northern light4 ,prodigal ,nature6 ,is she ever wasting splendors at this rate8 ,watch them on this broad1 slanting park of lily-white satin4 ,white6--,it has just a breath of pink4 ,pink8--,it is the richest rose--rose deepening into purple--purple trembling into blue1 pearly blue1 skirted with salmon-tints and lilac4 ,where are the train-bearers of this imperial robe8 ,there they are1 the smooth1 black swells1 one1 two1 three1 rolling up1 and changing into green as they roll up--far up1 and break in sparkling diamonds on the bosom of the lustrous alabaster4 ,do you hear the music8 ,o what power in sound6 ,clothed in green and silver1 the royal bands of the great deep are playing at every portal of the iceberg4 ,hark6 ,half thunder1 and half the harmony of grand organs4 8,waters1 in the still magnificence1 ,their solemn cymbals beat40 ,the painter's work is over4 ,and now for harbor--all sails spread--a downy pressure on them1 and the twilight ocean4 ,indomitable pencil6 ,if the man is not at it again6--,a last1 flying sketch in lead4 ,let us take one more look at the berg--a farewell look4 ,it is a beautiful creation--superlatively beautiful4 ,it is more--sublime and beautiful--fold upon fold--spotless ermine--caught up from the billows1 and suspended by the fingers of ,omnipotence4 ,the ,merciful ,one6 ,it is falling6--,cliffs and pinnacles bursting--crashing--tumbling with redoubling thunders4--,pillars and sheaves of foam leap aloft4--,wave chases wave1 careering wild and high4--,columns and splintered fragments spring from the deep convulsively1 toppling and plunging4--,a multitude of small icebergs spot the dusky waters4 ,one slender obelisk1 slowly rocking to and fro1 stands a monument among the scattered ruins4 ,,chapter ,,xlix4 ,,drifting ,,in ,,the ,,straits4--,,retreat ,,to ,,temple ,,bay4--,,picturesque ,,scenery4--,,voyagers' ,,saturday ,,night4 ,,we are drifting to the north shore in spite of all that can be done1 and positively have not been before in so great danger4 ,our anchor1 with all the cable we have1 would be swinging above the bottom1 were we close to the rocks4 ,a reckless skipper1 not long ago in a similar predicament1 let go his anchor with the expectation that it would catch in time to save him1 but he went bows on1 and lost his vessel4 ,our hope is that some one of the flaws of wind1 now ruffling the water every little while in various directions1 will catch our sails1 and allow us to escape into ,temple ,bay1 a land-locked harbor close by4 ,my anxiety to return home makes this delay a little vexatious1 and galls my thin-skinned patience4 ,we had every reason to hope1 this morning1 that we should be through these perilous narrows and upon the broad gulf by midnight4 ,the breeze touches us at the last moment1 and we are gliding through the narrow pass between high craggy banks1 over a comparatively shallow bottom1 visible from the deck1 into what appears to be a lake surrounded by mountains not unlike those about ,west ,point1 barring their fine woods4 ,really ,labrador can show us1 at last1 a little forest greenery4 ,without a point of grandeur1 this is the most picturesque scenery we have found on the coast4 ,the greenish waters1 tinted by the verdure reflected from their surface1 expand to the breadth of a mile by six or seven in length1 with a depth of fifty fathoms or more4 ,we glide past the village--a knot of fish-houses1 flakes and dwellings1 in the bight to the left or south1 and drop anchor within pistol-shot of the spruces and a mountain brook4 ,here we are1 till next week1 like a lonely fly on this mirror of the mountains1 and must make the most of our shadows and reflections1 sunshine and solitude1 and see what they will bring us4 ,i sit upon deck and look about upon the wild1 noiseless scene1 and say3 ,what a lonely ,saturday afternoon6 ,the weary week is just lying down to ruminate in these solemn shades4 ,a few scattering sounds1 the finishing strokes of the axe and hammer1 and the low wail of the surf beyond the coast-ridge break the rest of the cool1 bracing air4 ,the upper end of the lake1 as ,i call the bay or fiord1 is hidden behind a headland1 reminding me of our ,hudson ,butter ,hill4 ,nothing would be pleasanter than a small voyage of discovery by twilight4 ,below the stern of the schooner1 which swings near the beach1 are the timbers of a ship peeping above water1 and full of story1 no doubt1 as so many old salts4 ,we have had a most agreeable tea-time1 the ,captain entertaining us with incidents of his life upon these northern seas4 ,my regret1 not to say vexation1 that we had to leave the strait and retreat to the safety of this lovely fold1 provided by the ,good ,shepherd of the deep1 is quite dissipated after a little sketch of the perils to which we should have been subjected among the currents1 becalmed and immersed in fog1 banks of which ,i see already peeping over the hills along the shore4 ,sunset and twilight and the dusk of evening have come and gone4 ,the stars are out in multitudes1 ,arcturus among them high in the great arch1 and the depths1 above which we seem to hang suspended1 are thickly sown with their trembling images4 ,,chapter ,l4 ,,sunday ,,in ,,temple ,,bay4--,,religious ,,services4--,,the ,,fisherman',s ,,dinner ,,and ,,conversation4--,,chateau4--,,the ,,wreck4--,,winters ,,in ,,labrador4--,,icebergs ,,in ,,the ,,winter4--,,the ,,french ,,officers' ,,frolic ,,with ,,an ,,iceberg4--,,theory ,,of ,,icebergs4--,,currents ,,of ,,the ,,strait4--,,the ,,red ,,indians4--,,the ,,return ,,to ,,the ,,vessel4 ,,monday1 ,july #ai4 ,early yesterday morning1 a boat with tan-colored sails came off from the town1 and found that we were not traders from ,newfoundland1 as they supposed1 but visitors merely1 and direct from ,mr4 ,hutchinson1 their minister1 of whose return they were delighted to hear tidings4 ,it was soon settled that ,i should be their clergyman for the day1 notice of which was given very quickly upon their going back to the village1 by sending from house to house1 and flying the ,sunday flag1 a white banner with a red cross4 ,our men1 in holiday clothes1 were prompt at their oars1 and soon placed us on the beach1 where we were met by ,mr4 ,clark1 one of the city fathers1 who politely invited us to his house1 and afterward attended us to the place of worship1 a small rude building1 which was crowded1 the children gathering close about me4 ,after the usual ,church of ,england service1 ,i preached extempore on our need of redemption1 and the sufficiency and freeness of that which has been graciously provided4 ,after a brief intermission1 all returned to the evening service and sermon1 which concluded the religious exercises of the day4 ,we dined at ,mr4 ,clark's1 on fisherman's fare1 garnished with salted duck1 a new dish to us1 and requiring the discipline of use and a rough life in order to relish very well4 ,while at dinner and after1 our host entertained us in a simple1 sketchy way with incidents and adventures illustrating the story of the place1 and of his own life4 ,chateau1 the name of the village1 is more ancient than the old ,french and ,english war1 during which it suffered pillage and burning4 ,the wreck beneath our stern1 of which ,i spoke1 was that of an ,english vessel with a cargo of furs1 fish and oil1 and was there run aground and fired by the captain1 to prevent her falling into the hands of the enemy4 ,even these remote rocks and waters have historic associations of thrilling interest4 ,according to the custom of those who live permanently in ,labrador1 ,clark and a few of his neighbors remove1 in autumn1 to the evergreen woods along the streams at the head of the bay1 and spend more than half of the year in hunting and sealing1 and getting timber and firewood for the summer4 ,in some respects1 it is a holiday time1 and compensates for the unremitting toil of the fishing season4 ,the experience of years with icebergs has not made them common things1 like the waves and hills1 but rather increased the sense of their terrible power and grandeur4 ,they frequently arrive covered with earth and stones1 an indication of their recent lapse from the land1 and of the brevity of their time upon the sea4 ,during the cold months they are deeply covered with snow1 and have a rounded1 heavy1 and drowsy aspect4 ,it is the warm weather that gives them their naked brilliancy1 and melts them into picturesque forms1 and rolls and explodes them in the magnificent style1 ,i have attempted to describe4 ,they are seen to move occasionally at the same rate of speed1 whether through the densely packed ice or the open sea4 ,wind1 current and tide1 and the ocean crowded with ice as far as sight can reach1 all frequently set in one direction1 and the bergs in another4 ,on they move1 majestic and serene1 tossing the crystal masses from their shaggy breasts1 cracking1 crashing1 thundering along4 ,there are spaces of dark water spotting the white expanse4 ,it makes no difference2 all move on alike4 ,none hastens in the open water2 none pauses at the heaped-up banks4 ,all on the surface of the deep is only so much froth before the ,alp whose foundations are immersed in the great submarine currents4 ,he told us a story illustrating the danger of icebergs1 and the temerity of making familiar with them4 ,a few years ago1 while a ,french man-of-war was lying at anchor in ,temple ,bay1 the younger officers resolved on amusing themselves with an iceberg1 a mile or more distant in the straits4 ,they made sumptuous preparations for a pic-nic upon the very top of it1 the mysteries of which they were curious to see4 ,all warnings of the brown and simple fishermen1 in the ears of the smartly dressed gentlemen who had seen the world1 were quite idle4 ,it was a bright summer morning1 and the jolly boat with a showy flag went off to the berg4 ,by twelve o'clock the colors were flying from the icy turrets1 and the wild midshipmen were shouting from its walls4 ,for two hours or so they hacked1 and clambered the crystal palace2 frolicked and feasted2 drank wine to the king and the ladies1 and laughed at the thought of peril where all was so fixed and solid4 ,as if in amazement at such rashness1 the grim ,alp of the sea made neither sound nor motion4 ,a profound stillness watched on his shining pinnacles1 and hearkened in the blue shadows of his caves4 ,when1 like thoughtless children1 they had played themselves weary1 the old alabaster of ,greenland mercifully suffered them to gather up their toys1 and go down to their cockle of a boat1 and flee away4 ,as if the time and the distance were measured1 he waited until they could see it and live1 when1 as if his heart had been volcanic fire1 he burst with awful thunders1 and filled the surrounding waters with his ruins4 ,a more astonished little party seldom comes home to tell the story of their panic4 ,it was their first1 and their last day of amusement with an iceberg4 ,it seems rather late in the day for persons of some experience in these regions1 to be ignorant of the origin of icebergs4 ,i asked our friend1 as ,i had others1 how he supposed that they were formed4 ,he imagined that they were merely the accumulations of loose ice1 snow and frozen spray1 in the intensely cold regions of the arctic ocean4 ,piles of broken ice1 driven together1 and cemented by the heavy snows and the repeated dashing of the surf1 would in time become the huge and solid islands that we see4 ,such is the theory of their formation with all whom ,i have heard express themselves on the subject1 and ,i believe the one very generally received4 ,when this explanation was objected to1 and the facts stated that icebergs were glaciers1 first formed on the land1 and then launched into the sea1 our kind host expressed his doubts more modestly than some others had done of less intelligence and experience4 ,speaking of the currents in the straits1 he said he could not well conceive any in the world more dangerous4 ,while exceedingly powerful1 they were shifting4 ,what rendered this perilous to the last degree1 was the excessively deep water and the boldness of the shores4 ,one could toss a bullet into water frequently too deep for the anchorage of smaller vessels4 ,in times of calm1 and in connection with the dense fogs peculiar to those coasts1 a vessel could not drift about in the straits without the risk of being thrown upon the rocks and lost4 ,when we were lying becalmed off ,temple ,bay1 on ,saturday afternoon1 he was watching us from a hill-top1 and remarked to a neighbor1 that he was sorry for the skipper out there1 and feared1 unless the wind came to his relief before dark1 he would get ashore4 ,he remarked that fresh water may be dipped in winter1 from small open spaces in the bay--a fact ,i do not remember to have read of in the pages of arctic voyagers4 ,i concluded that this only is true1 where the water is undisturbed below1 and where the open spaces are small1 and hemmed in with ice in a way to break off the wind4 ,it is simply rain-water1 ,i suppose1 resting upon the surface of the heavier salt water4 ,in the course of the conversation1 he stated that there was1 at some distance back in the interior1 a remnant of the red ,indians so called1 once a savage and troublesome tribe in ,newfoundland4 ,driven from thence on account of their hostile and untamable nature1 they had finally taken refuge in the remote vales of ,labrador1 where they now live1 as is commonly reported1 nursing their ancient enmity1 but too prudent to reappear among the whites1 or let their exact habitation be known4 ,pleased with the talk of the fisherman of ,chateau1 we bade him and his family good-by1 and returned on board to a second dinner1 a little more to our taste4 ,,chapter ,,li4 ,,evening ,,walk ,,to ,,temple ,,bay ,,mountain4--,,the ,,little ,,iceberg4--,,troubles ,,of ,,the ,,night ,,and ,,pleasures ,,of ,,the ,,morning4--,,up ,,the ,,straits4--,,the ,,pinnacle ,,of ,,the ,,last ,,iceberg4--,,the ,,gulf ,,of ,,st4 ,,lawrence4 ,,after dinner and a pleasant conversation on deck1 we found time to slip ashore1 and thread our way through thickets of sweet-scented spruce to the mountain-top for a prospect4 ,once in my life1 on the borders of a forest pond1 in the lower ,st4 ,lawrence country1 ,i experienced the plague of black flies to an extent that was quite frightful4 ,i turned from the margin where1 head and face covered with handkerchiefs1 ,i was fishing1 and ran to a woodman's hut4 ,the same flies swarmed about us on the mountain of ,temple ,bay1 and drove us down through its evergreens with all the speed it was prudent to make4 ,in the edge of the twilight1 the ,captain went across the bay to a little mouse of a berg1 that had been all day creeping in from sea1 to get a few cakes of ice2 and asked our company4 ,our mouse1 as might be expected1 turned out to be a lion4 ,we rowed alongside1 notwithstanding1 and sprung upon his white1 glassy back melted all over into a roughness that resembled the rippled surface of a pond4 ,in attempting to walk to a fairy-like bowl1 full of that lovely blue water1 the painter slipped up1 and came near sliding off altogether4 ,but for the ,captain1 at whose legs he caught as he was going by1 he would have had a fine plunge and a ducking4 ,our chick of a berg1 only ten or twelve feet across with a few minute pieces of sculpture in the shape of vases and recumbent animals1 lay in its pale green bath like a burr or star1 its white points visible at quite a depth--a fact which served to corroborate some experiments we had been making with respect to the parts of an iceberg under water4 ,here was a mass1 with the exception of a few trifling spurs1 only a little above the surface1 but with a bulk1 the extreme points of which were too far below to be discovered4 ,to conclude several amusing liberties we were taking with it1 the ,captain proceeded to split off a kind of figure-head attached to the main body by a sort of horse-neck1 which no sooner fell into the water than our bantling began to imitate the motions of the tallest giant of the icebergs4 ,in making the grand swing1 however1 it rolled completely over1 and came within an ace of catching us upon one of its horns4 ,anticipating the chance of danger from below1 ,i looked over the side of the boat1 when1 sure enough1 a prong was coming up in a way to give us a toss that would be no sport4 ,a lucky push off saved us4 ,like the spoke of a big wheel it rolled up1 giving us a blow in the ribs as it passed1 and a good rocking on the swash4 ,one would scarcely think that there was any excitement in so trifling an incident1 but there was1 and enough of it to make me resolve to meddle no more with a thing of the kind larger than a lamb4 ,when it settled to rest1 it was exactly upside down1 and presented a curious specimen of the honey-comb work of the waters4 ,it may occur to some that we were sporting upon the ,lord's ,day4 ,upon reflection ,i confess that we were1 although we might plead the privilege of voyagers1 and the long day which touches hard upon our midnight4 ,upon our return we found the musquitoes1 a peculiarly hungry and poisonous species1 coming down from the woods in numbers4 ,we determined to crush that mischief in the bud1 and did it most effectually1 by filling the cabin with the dense smoke of spruce boughs1 and then1 upon its escape1 covering the entrance with a sheet4 ,one only came feebly and timidly singing about my face before ,i got to sleep4 ,about one o'clock1 there were sounds above3 shaking of blocks and cordage1 now and then a thump with a creak of booms1 and jerking of the rudder4 ,i went up2 there was no watch2 all were soundly sleeping4 ,the ship's cat was out on the rail1 running from place to place1 and mewing mournfully4 ,the sky looked ominous1 and there was the roar of wind outside4 ,the waters and the woods of the bay1 so prettily named1 were gloomy as the crypt of a temple4 ,i crept to my dreams1 out of which in no long time ,i was startled by the painter4 ,he was getting up to have his look4 ,he reported breezes1 but in the wrong direction1 and without comment felt his way back to bed4 ,at two1 the voice of the ,captain put an end to slumbers1 fore and aft4 ,he was calling all hands to the deck1 where presently all was noise and bustle1 hoisting sail1 and heaving at the anchor4 ,the old motion was soon perceptible1 and we knew that we were taking leave of ,temple ,bay--a fact of which we were assured by the ,captain1 who peeped in upon us1 by lifting a corner of the musquito-sheet1 and announced the good tidings that the wind1 northeast1 was blowing briskly1 and that the straits would give us no further trouble4 ,no sooner were we clear of the 8tickle10 or narrows1 than 8,iceberg ahead60--8,ice on the lee bow60 was cried by the man forward4 ,it was no more to our purpose to go up and look at ices4 ,it was a comfortable reflection that we were now bidding them farewell4 ,by way of a parting salute1 one of the bergs burst asunder with a great noise1 before that we were out of the reach of its shells4 ,but its thunder fell but faintly on our practised ears1 and rather encouraged than disturbed our disposition to sleep4 ,when daylight was broad upon the straits1 we were over the worst1 and the last iceberg1 like the top of some solitary mausoleum of the desert1 was sinking below the horizon4 ,the high wind and sea were after us1 and we ran with speed and comparative stillness4 ,by noon we were fairly through2 with ,forteau1 the last of ,labrador1 on the north--to the south1 the coast of ,newfoundland1 and the broad gulf of ,st4 ,lawrence expanding before us4 ,we felt that we might then breathe freely4 ,the breeze most surely did1 and we sped on our way southward toward ,cape ,breton4 ,,chapter ,,lii4 ,,coast ,,scenery4--,,farewell ,,to ,,labrador4 ,,the coast of ,labrador was really fine1 all the forenoon1 and sometimes strikingly grand4 ,it has lost something of the desolate and savage character it has about the ,capes ,st4 ,louis and ,st4 ,charles1 and seems more like a habitable land4 ,there are long and graceful slopes and outlines of pale green hills slanting down to the sea1 along which is the craggy shore-line1 black1 brown and red4 ,the last few miles1 and which is near the ,canadian border1 the red sandstone shore is exceedingly picturesque4 ,it has a right royal presence along the deep4 ,lofty1 semicircular promontories descend in regular terraces nearly down1 then sweep out gracefully with an ample lap to the margin4 ,no art could produce better effect4 ,the long1 terraced galleries are touched with a tender green1 and the well-hollowed vales1 now and then occurring1 and ascending to the distant horizon between ranks of rounded hills1 look green and pasture-like4 ,all1 you must bear in mind1 is treeless nearly1 and utterly lonely4 ,here and there are small detachments of dwarf firs1 looking as if they were either on their retreat to the woodlands of a warmer clime1 or on their march from it1 in order to get a foothold1 and make a forest settlement remote from the woodman's axe4 ,anyway1 in their lonesome and inhospitable halt1 they darken the light greens and the gray greens with very lively effect4 ,the ,battery1 as sailors call it1 is a wall of red sandstone1 of some two or three miles in extent1 with horizontal lines extending from one extreme to the other1 and perpendicular fissures resembling embrasures and gateways4 ,swelling out with grand proportions toward the sea1 it has a most military and picturesque appearance4 ,at one point of this huge citadel of solitude1 there is the resemblance of a giant portal1 with stupendous piers two hundred feet or more in elevation4 ,they are much broken by the yearly assaults of the frost1 and the eye darts up the ruddy ruins with surprise4 ,if there was anything to defend1 here is a ,gibraltar at hand1 with comparatively small labor1 whose guns could nearly cross the strait4 ,beneath its precipitous cliffs the debris slopes like a glacis to the beach1 with both smooth and broken surfaces1 and all very handsomely decorated with rank herbage4 ,above the great walls1 there is a range of terraces ascending with marked regularity for quite a distance4 ,miles of ascending country1 prairie-like1 greet the eye along this edge of ,labrador4 8,arms of gold0--is it8 ,possibly these promontories1 golden in the rising and the setting sun1 may have suggested to ,cabot or some other explorer1 before or since1 the propriety of christening this dead body of a country by some redeeming name4 ,among the very pretty and refreshing features of the coast are its brooks1 seen occasionally falling over the rocks in white cascades4 ,harbors are passed now and then with small fishing fleets and dwellings4 ,forteau has a church-spire pointing heavenward among its white buildings and brown masts1 and is the most eastern place in the diocese of ,newfoundland visited by ,bishop ,field4 ,it is not unlikely that he is now there engaged in the sacred duties of his office1 and certainly would have attracted us thither1 could we have spared a day4 ,on the point from which we took our final departure from the north shore1 stands a high lighthouse1 erected at great cost1 and around its base are clustering the greens of a kitchen garden6 ,adieu1 bleak ,labrador6 ,they tell me that the warmest of summers is now upon thy honeyless and milkless land4 ,if this is thy ,july--,i say it under an overcoat of the deepest nap--spare me thy ,december4 ,but why1 at parting1 should ,i speak roughly unto thee1 and whet the temper to talk ill of thee1 in the presence of rich gardens1 yellow fields1 and ruddy orchards8 ,hast not thou thy horned cariboo1 thy reindeer1 thy fox of costly fur1 and thy wild-fowl of wintry plumage8 ,hast not thou thy bright-eyed salmon1 graced with lines as delicate and lovely as those of beauty's arm1 and complexioned like the marigold 8damasked by the neighboring rose08--thy whales and seals to fill with oil the lighthouse lamp1 to fill with starry flame the lighthouse lantern8--thy pale green capelin1 silvery-sided myriads that allure the 8fish10 calling their millions to the hooks and seines of thy toiling fishermen--hardy1 hospitable people1 whose kentles of white-fleshed cod buy the ruby wine and yellow fruits of ,cuba and ,oporto8 ,hast thou not dealt kindly with us1 and shown us these thy fat things1 and all thy richer1 nobler treasures8 ,hast thou not uncurtained thy resplendent pictures of the sky1 the ocean1 and the land8 ,and have we not gazed delighted and awe-struck upon the grandeur of a great and terrible wilderness1 upon the gloom of its shadowy atmosphere1 upon the brilliancy of its sunlight8 ,have we not heard the footsteps of the billows marching to their encampment in the grottoes of the cliffs2 and seen the silent1 inshore deeps2 the imprisoned islands and grim headlands armed with impenetrable granite2 the vales and dells1 and hill-sides with their mosses and their flowers1 sweet odors1 and sweet melodies8--most beautiful1 most wonderful of all1 thine icebergs1 and thy twilight heavens8 ,all these1 and more1 of thy greatness and thy glory1 have we looked upon1 and they will have their reflections1 and their echoes in the memory forever4 ,beauty may watch1 and supplicate1 and weep sometimes upon the crags now receding from our view1 but she is surely there1 and native to the wildest pinnacle and cavern4 ,and while to the careless eye and thoughtless heart thou art verily dark and bleak1 yet art thou neither barren nor unfruitful4 ,old ,labrador1 farewell6 ,,chapter ,,liii4 ,,western ,,newfoundland4--,,the ,,bay1 ,,the ,,islands1 ,,and ,,the ,,highlands ,,of ,,st4 ,,johns4--,,ingornachoix ,,bay4 ,,newfoundland now lifts its blue summits along the southeast sky1 a kind of ,catskill heights1 with here and there patches of snow1 that recall to mind the ,white ,mountain ,house4 ,in the course of the afternoon1 we pass them1 and find that they are the highlands of ,st4 ,johns1 the loftiest1 ,i believe1 in the island1 and bound the bay called by the same lovely name4 ,what a region for romantic excursion6 ,yonder are wooded mountains with a sleepy atmosphere1 and attractive vales1 and a fine river1 the river ,castor1 flowing from a country almost unexplored2 and here are green isles spotting the sea--the islands of ,st4 ,johns4 ,behind them is an expanse of water1 alive with fish and fowl1 the extremes of which are lost in the deep1 untroubled wilderness4 ,a month would not suffice to find out and enjoy its manifold and picturesque beauties1 through which wind the deserted trails of the ,red ,indian1 now extinct or banished4 ,why they should have left1 with all these unappropriated breadths of solitude for their inheritance1 ,i do not precisely understand4 ,there are mournful tales told of their wrongs and their revenges1 the old story of contests between the civilized and the savage4 ,yonder1 at the termination of the highlands1 is a cape1 no matter what is its ,french name1 since directly behind it is a bay with an ,indian name tough enough to last one round a dozen capes--the ,bay of ,ingornachoix1 noted for its harbors1 inlets1 and pretty streams1 another fine region for the summer tourist4 ,beyond the woody distances rising in the east1 there lies a lengthy lake1 the centre of a little world of interest to the lovers of nature and the picturesque4 ,it is no great distance across the island here to the shores of ,white ,bay1 a remote expanse of waters1 to which few but fishermen have any occasion to penetrate4 ,as the evening advances the wind strengthens1 and bears us rapidly along the coast4 ,thus we are encircling ,newfoundland1 and finding spots of beauty1 to which1 if we may not return ourselves1 we can direct others of like taste and sentiment4 ,we come down from the cold air1 and from looking at a fine aurora now playing in the skies1 and gleaming by reflection in the waves1 and sit by the cabin lights1 and talk and write1 inspect the sketches1 and listen to the roar of winds and surges--rather melancholy music4 ,,chapter ,,liv4 ,,slow ,,sailing ,,by ,,the ,,bay ,,of ,,islands4--,,the ,,river ,,humber4--,,st4 ,,george',s ,,river1 ,,cape1 ,,and ,,bay4--,a ,,brilliant ,,sunset4 ,,tuesday1 ,july #ai4 ,we have a brilliant morning and a favoring breeze1 but a vexatious current4 ,what a net of these currents has the tyrannous ,neptune set around his beloved ,newfoundland6 ,like a web in a dim cellar window1 it is perpetually entangling some fly of a craft in its subtle meshes4 ,buzz and struggle as we will1 he has got us by the foot1 and1 spider-like1 may look on1 and enjoy our perplexity4 ,we advance with insufferable slowness1 notwithstanding the considerable speed of our rounded bows1 through the water4 8,that is the ,bay of ,islands10 they said1 early in the morning4 ,it is the ,bay of ,islands still4 ,we are a long time sailing by the ,bay of ,islands4 ,but it gives us time to look1 and talk about it with the ,captain4 ,beyond the forest-covered hills which surround it1 are lakes as beautiful1 and larger than ,lake ,george1 the cold1 clear waters of which flow to the bay under the name of the river ,humber4 ,it has a valley like ,wyoming1 and more romantic scenery than the ,susquehanna4 ,the ,bay of ,islands is also a bay of streams and inlets1 an endless labyrinth of cliffs and woods and waters1 where the summer voyager would delight to wander1 and which is worth a volume sparkling with pictures4 ,how fine a blue the waters of the gulf are in this light6 ,we seem to be upon the broad ,atlantic4 ,what a realm of seas and shores1 islands1 bays and rivers1 is this ,st4 ,lawrence world1 in the midst of which we now are1 and of which our people know so little6 ,where are our young men1 who have the time and money to skip1 from summer to summer1 in the fashionable rounds of travel1 that they do not seek this virgin scenery8 ,one long1 loud yell of the black loon1 deep diver of these lakes and fiords1 pealing through the silent evening1 would ring in their recollection long after the music of city parks abroad had been forgotten4 ,late in the day1 and ,cape ,st4 ,george in view1 a bold and clifted point pushed out from the mainland twenty miles or more1 and commanding extensive prospects both inland and along the coast4 ,a month would not suffice for all its many landscapes4 ,st4 ,george's ,river is a wild1 rapid stream1 and ,st4 ,george's ,bay is quite a little sea1 deep1 and darkened by the shadows of fine mountains1 and broad woodlands4 ,like the ,bay of ,islands1 it is a paradise for the huntsman1 and the fisher4 ,awake1 ye devotees of the fishing-rod and rifle1 and the red camp-fire beneath the green-wood trees1 and know that to visit ,st4 ,george's cape and bay and river1 and all that is ,st4 ,george's1 is better late than never4 ,the sun is in the waves1 and yonder we have those wonderful heavens again4 ,the west is all one bath of colors1 colors of the rainbow4 ,and clouds like piled-up fleeces1 and like fleeces pulled apart and scattered1 and fleeces spun into soft and woolly threads1 and again those threads woven into downy fabrics1 are weltering in the glory4 ,the wind has fallen1 and the waves have put out all their white1 flashing lights1 and now mould themselves into the flowing lines and the sweetest forms of beauty4 ,we go down with glad hearts1 and ask protection for the night4 ,,chapter ,,lv4 ,,foul ,,weather4--,,cape ,,anguille4--,,the ,,clearing ,,off4--,,the ,,frolic ,,of ,,the ,,porpoises4--,,the ,,new ,,cooks4--,,the ,,ship',s ,,cat4 ,,wednesday1 ,july #bj4 ,we have a misty morning1 and a contrary wind4 ,if there are any two words in ,english1 that early fell in love and married1 and have a numerous progeny1 those words are ,patience and ,progress4 ,they do not walk hand in hand1 but1 like the red ,indians1 in single file4 ,if ,progress walk before1 ,patience is close behind1 which order of march now happens to prevail1 and a good deal to our discomfort4 ,in the mean time1 in company with this leisurely and quiet maid1 we are beating in and out from land1 in long and tedious stretches1 with large gains upon one tack1 and nearly as large losses on the other4 ,peeping through the rainy atmosphere is ,cape ,anguille1 the neighboring heights of which are five hundred feet above the tide1 and sweep off in dim and lengthy lines4 ,the strong head-wind is blowing away the mists1 the seas are up in arms1 crested with snowy plumes1 flashing and sparkling4 ,clouds1 in white uniform1 at quick-time march in long battalions1 moving inland and leaving the defenceless shores to sunshine and the dashing surf4 ,the sails mutter a deep1 low bass4 ,the 8puffpigs10 classic name for porpoise1 are playing a thousand pranks about us1 and we are partners in the frolic2 watching1 laughing at1 and pelting them1 all of which they seem to regard as the merest nonsense of only a tubfull of helpless creatures in the upper air4 ,they appear to be in the very highest glee1 a party of fast young fellows1 well bred and fed1 and in holiday fin and skin4 ,like swallows round a barn1 they play about our bows1 wheeling1 plunging1 darting to the surface1 spouting1 splashing1 every tail and rolling back of them full of fun and laughter4 ,after a spell of this ground and lofty tumbling in the shadow of our jib1 away they trip it1 like so many frisky buffalo calves1 side by side1 in squads and couples1 crossing and recrossing1 kicking up their heels and turning summersets--a kind of rollicking good-by4 ,not a bit of it3 round they come again1 by tens and twenties1 wild with merriment1 on a perfect gallop1 and dive below the vessel4 ,up they pop with puff and snort on all sides and ends1 and dart away like shuttles1 with a thread of light behind them1 to go over and over again the gamesome round4 ,sandy1 whose coarse good nature has been dropping from his very finger ends in the way of stones thrown at the jolly fishes1 has the smallest possible aptitude for the domestic art he is practising4 ,neither does his fancy take at all to the fair ways of neatness4 ,beyond frying pork and fish in one pan1 and boiling potatoes in one pot1 and making tea in one kettle1 as a housewife steeps her simples1 and every separate vessel1 fakir-like1 to sit from meal to meal in undisturbed repose1 wrapped in the dingy mantle of its own defilement1 ,sandy has no ambition4 ,indignant1 his superiors have read him several homilies to the point4 ,but the lessons have fallen upon his attention like the first drops of a shower upon a duck's back4 ,the painter even went so far as to indulge himself in a brief1 emphatic charge1 in the end of which there darted out a stinging threat1 anent washing and scouring4 ,across the cloud of ,sandy's unhappy brow a faint smile was1 at length1 seen to pass1 and charge and threat dropped like pebbles into the muddy deeps of his forgetfulness4 ,sandy1 therefore1 has virtually been deposed1 and now occupies the lowly position of a mere lackey to cooks of character4 ,there are now1 instead of one indifferent1 three pre-eminent cooks3 a painter1 a captain1 and a writer4 ,they employ1 divert1 and frequently disappoint themselves in the several dishes they attempt4 ,not that the dishes in themselves are so bad1 but that they fall so far short of the ideal of the excellent4 ,when ,i was a lad1 spruce-beer and gingerbread were the nectar and ambrosia at general trainings4 ,i wanted some ambrosia4 ,the cooking-stove was instantly fired1 and so was the painter1 on the important occasion1 who1 from his skill in combining pigments on his pallet1 had suspicions of ability in compounding ingredients for the pan and oven2 and therefore1 nothing loth1 was persuaded to undertake1 with the secrecy of some hoar alchemist of old1 in the dim retirement of the cabin1 the conglomeration from flour and ginger1 sugar1 salt1 soda and hot water1 of a tremulous mass that should emanate1 under his plastic hand1 in a generous and tempting cake4 ,to the large surprise of both mariner and author1 order at length arose out of that chaos in a milk-pan1 and appeared in upper day1 when1 with conscious but with a modest air of triumph1 it was passed into the hands of the chief-baker1 who roasted both it and himself1 for a sultry and smoky hour1 with entire success4 ,hot as metal from a furnace1 and of a rich ,potawatomie red1 it was tasted1 and found nearly as hot with ginger1 and then prudently laid away to cool and petrify4 ,the history of the decline and fall of that memorable loaf will probably never be written4 ,it is enough to say1 that1 although the disintegrating process was at first a little difficult1 owing to some doubt about the proper instrumentalities1 yet it is now easily dissected with a saw4 ,it is unnecessary to remark1 that but one such batch of the ruddy bread is needed on a pleasure-voyage4 ,the painter has fresh reason to congratulate himself that in all his works he succeeds in imparting an element of perpetuity4 ,our great difficulty is the smallness of the caboose and the stove1 which will not permit the carrying on of all operations at the same time--a circumstance which is apt to leave no more than a kindly warmth1 if not a decided coolness1 in all dishes but the last in hand4 ,we1 the landsmen of the culinary trio1 have also a dreadful foe to fight1 and1 in any thing like a severe battle1 are sure to fall4 ,it is ever lurking near our outposts1 and is sure to rush upon us in rough weather4 ,they called it sea-sickness1 ,i dare say1 as early as when they voyaged for the golden fleece4 ,its effects are described in a language more venerable than that of ,greece3 8,they reel to and fro1 and stagger like a drunken man1 and are at their wits' end40 ,that describes our case exactly4 ,it lays both dishes and ourselves completely on the shelf4 ,forthwith tea1 cakes and coffee1 meats1 vegetables1 fruits1 and fish are allowed a play-spell1 perhaps a long yellow holiday1 and may go on a pic-nic1 a bathing1 or a fishing1 or a shooting frolic under the table1 among the baggage1 or around the cabin floor1 as the bend of things incline4 ,the ,captain1 however1 is apt to interpose in such disorders1 and discipline the wild wares much to his own1 and often to our relief4 ,we are amused1 annoyed1 and distressed at the ship's cat4 ,she is an incorrigible thief and pick-shelf1 and bent on making the most of us while we last4 ,the painter is down upon her1 and will not endure her for a moment4 ,the cabin was recently the field of a bloodless battle1 the din whereof was startling as far off as the caboose1 in the smoke of which ,i was weeping over the remains of the late breakfast4 ,loud shouting1 interspersed with shocks of irate bodies1 boots1 broom1 cane1 against barrels and amongst boxes came upon the peaceful ear1 and warned me to hasten to the edge of things and look down4 ,tantne animis celestibus ir6 ,there was no consciousness of a spectator of the militant manuvres1 but a mighty thrashing and furious thrusting1 and whipping of a scraggy spruce-bough among tubs1 jugs1 and cans1 and away behind4 ,there was a steady fire in the face1 and a pistol-shot sharpness in the 8scat40 ,grimalkin answered with a terrible wauling1 and finally with fixed tail made a dash past the enemy1 escaping up the steps into my face and eyes almost1 and retreating to the bowsprit4 ,puss is a bold sailor4 ,she skips upon the taffrail1 climbs the shrouds1 sits with ease and dignity upon the boom1 yawns and stretches among the rigging4 ,poor ,pussy1 she is not a silken-haired1 daintily-fed cat1 but a creature of backbone and ribs1 coated with fur unlicked and scorched1 indicative of kicks and a meagre cupboard4 ,she treads no downy bed1 and purrs in no loved daughter's lap4 ,as she comes mewing gingerly about my feet1 and coils herself in a sunny twist of rope1 ,i think of our own household tabby1 and call her by all the feline names expressive of good-will and tenderness4 ,how the breeze pipes6 ,hoarse music this1 played upon the cordage of our light little schooner4 ,old ,saint ,laurent1 thy winds and waves are not always symbols of a martyr's gentleness4 ,a few seasons ago1 just here in sight of yonder hills and valleys now dreaming under an atmosphere of quiet1 ,captain ,knight experienced a most appalling sea4 ,while there is nothing terrible in these now breaking over our barriers every few minutes1 yet they effectually upset the stomach1 and hence all comfort4 ,we lie upon the slant deck in the sunshine1 sheltered near the helm1 and see the spray fly over us1 and watch the idle flourishing of the topmast4 ,,chapter ,,lvi4 ,,st4 ,,paul',s ,,island4--,,cape ,,north4--,,coast ,,of ,,cape ,,breton4--,,sydney ,,light ,,and ,,harbor4--,,the ,,end ,,of ,,our ,,voyage ,,to ,,labrador1 ,,and ,,around ,,newfoundland4 ,,thursday1 ,july #ba4 ,after a boisterous night we are on deck again1 and find a pleasant change in the wind4 ,it is gray and rainy1 but then our sails swell1 and we rush southward4 ,a dome of inhospitable rock peers through the mist1 one of nature's penitentiaries1 which no living man would own1 and so has been deeded to ,st4 ,paul3 ,melita is ,eden to it4 ,the saints1 it appears to me1 have been gifted with the ruggedest odds and ends4 ,wherever1 on all these cast-iron shores1 there is a flinty promontory1 upon which ,prometheus himself would have shuddered to be chained1 there the name of an apostle has been transfixed4 ,yonder is ,cape ,north1 the stony arrow-head of ,cape ,breton1 a headland1 rather a multitudinous group of mountain headlands1 draped with gloomy grandeur1 against the black cliffs of which the surf is now firing its snowy rockets4 ,how is it they have not called it ,cape ,st4 ,mary or ,st4 ,john8 ,all in all1 this is a fine termination of the picturesque isle4 ,steep and lofty1 its summits are darkened by steepled evergreens1 and its many sides gashed with horrid fissures and ravines4 ,here we part from the broad gulf1 and enter the broader ocean1 passing between the promontories of ,cape ,breton and the last capes of ,newfoundland1 ,cape ,anguille1 and ,cape ,ray with its rocky domes and tables4 ,thus have we fairly encompassed this ,ireland of ,america1 in all but climate4 ,white seabirds1 with long wings tipped with black1 sweep the air4 ,we speed onward and homeward past the many-folded mountains4 ,the eye slides along their graceful outlines1 and follows their winding shores4 ,through the deep valleys we look upon the landscapes interior1 softened by a purple atmosphere4 ,clouds are breaking around the woody summits1 seas of forest-tops are smiling in the sunshine1 and shadows are filling the rocky gorges with a kind of twilight4 ,at last the sun is sinking behind the distant heights1 and leaving his red footsteps on the clouds4 ,c---- is painting his last picture1 and these are the last pencillings of the voyage4 ,we hail the cliffs of ,sydney--those remarkable cliffs that sat upon the horizon like tinted sea-shells1 on the ,sunday afternoon we were on our way to ,st4 ,johns4 ,and yonder is the ,sydney light twinkling through the dusk of evening4 ,our summer sail to ,labrador and around ,newfoundland is over4 ,where the anchor brings the vessel to a pause1 there shall we leave the brave little pinkstern4 ,may her wanderings in the future under the ,union ,jack be as happy as those of the present have been under the ,stars and ,stripes4 ,thankful for the ,divine care1 we will ask protection for the night1 and guidance home1 the final haven where we would be4 ,,chapter ,,lvii4 ,,farewell ,,to ,,captain ,,knight4--,,on ,,our ,,way ,,across ,,cape ,,breton4--,a ,,merry ,,ride1 ,,and ,,the ,,rustic ,,lover4 ,,friday1 ,july #bb4 ,sydney harbor4 ,a bright morning1 and the wind from the quarter where we should be happy to find it1 were we going to sea4 ,but1 selfish souls6 because it puts us to a small inconvenience1 we now wish that it did not blow1 and that we may have calm weather4 ,we are to breakfast1 to finish packing1 and take our leave of ,captain ,knight1 from whom we part with emotions of regret4 ,he will depart in the next steamer for ,st4 ,johns1 and we start for ,halifax by an inland route4 ,here we are1 on our way across the ,island of ,cape ,breton1 bound for ,nova ,scotia4 ,our baggage--trunks1 carpet-bags1 reindeer-horns1 snow-shoes1 plants1 and mosses--in a one-horse wagon1 goes ahead2 we follow in another4 ,we are delighted with the change from rolling waves to rolling wheels4 ,we are delighted with our spirited nag4 ,we are delighted with the scenery1 which1 however1 is in no way remarkable4 ,i believe that we should be delighted if we were riding through a smoky tunnel4 ,the truth is the delight is in us1 and will flow out1 and would1 be the world about us what it might4 ,every thing amuses us1 even the provoking trick our pony has of slightly kicking up1 every time the breeching cuts into his hams upon going down hill4 ,as may be supposed1 said pony is a creature of importance to us1 now that he is our motive power4 ,we do not look at the clouds now1 and watch the temper of the atmosphere2 our eyes are upon the body and legs of the little fellow wrapped in this brown skin4 ,after the first effervescence of spirit upon starting1 with which1 of course1 we were much delighted1 he began to lag a trifle1 and to raise suspicions that he was not the horse good-natured ,mr4 ,dearing1 his master1 said he was4 ,we are pleased to find ourselves mistaken4 ,our very blunders are satisfactory4 ,the longer he goes the smarter he grows1 giving us symptoms of a disposition to run away1 when ordinarily we might look for any thing else4 ,let him run4 ,we can ride as fast1 and come in not a length behind1 at the end of our thirty-two miles1 the distance to a tavern4 ,the ride along the shore of ,sydney harbor1 over a smooth1 hard road1 was really charming1 and would have been to travellers of ill temper4 ,wild roses incensed the fresh air1 and the sunshine was bright upon the clover-fields4 ,on the steamer down from ,halifax to ,sydney1 ,i became acquainted with a tradesman1 an intelligent ,scotch ,presbyterian4 ,who should come running out of a little country store by the road-side1 with a shout that brought our nag down upon his haunches1 but our friend6 ,he1 too1 was delighted1 and shook us heartily by the hand1 asking after 8the ,labrador10 the icebergs1 and our voyage in general4 ,set in the midst of our pleasure was one regret3 our want of time to visit ,louisburg1 or the ruins of it4 ,we talked it over1 and then dismissed both the ruins and the regret4 ,from the bay of ,sydney the way is wonderfully serpentine for a main road1 winding about apparently for the mere love of winding1 and when there seems no more real necessity for it than for a brook in a level meadow4 ,we have liked it all the better1 though1 running1 as it does1 around the slightest hills1 wooded with the perpetual spruce1 intermingled with the birch and maple1 crossing with a graceful twist little farms1 and coming around garden fences1 by the farmers' doors1 under the willows and the apple trees4 ,the native ,indians1 tricked out with cheap1 showy finery1 whose huts are seen lazily smoking among the bushes1 were occasionally met1 and chatted with4 ,a young ,mc4 something1 upon whose sleepy face was the moonshine of a smile1 was found trotting his chestnut filly close behind our wagon4 ,the persistence in the thing was becoming disagreeable1 and we looked round several times with an expression which said plainly3 8,please keep a little back40 ,mc4 was in no humor to take the hint4 ,when our pace quickened1 the click of his horse's shoes1 and the breath of his steed1 which carried a high head1 were close upon us2 a sudden slackening of our speed brought him1 horse-head and all1 as suddenly into our midst4 ,presently he changed his tactics1 and dashed by1 brushing the wheels with his stirrup1 and so trotting on ahead1 taking occasion to twist himself on the saddle1 when a walk permitted1 and look back4 ,the fellow was a character1 although of the softer kind1 and we struck up an acquaintance1 during which1 in the effort to sustain his part of the conversation1 he rode around us in all possible ways4 ,a particularly favorite position was in the gutter at our side1 where1 in spite of our united care1 he would now and then be literally run up a stump1 or a bank4 ,whether on the lead1 or following1 we kept him frequently at break-neck speed1 during which the conversation was mostly confined to monosyllables--loud and few--and1 when forward1 discharged now over one1 and then over the other shoulder4 ,mc4 was a farmer1 and lived with 8the old folks at home40 ,he had been on a courting expedition1 in which he considered himself successful4 ,in fact1 he made a clean breast of it1 and told us the pleasant story of his love1 and the fine qualities of the lass of whom he was enamored4 ,although she might not be thought handsome by a great many1 yet she was handsome to him4 ,never errant knight rehearsed a softer tale in shorter periods1 with a louder voice1 or happier heart4 ,he was full of it1 and it mattered little to whom1 or how he uttered it4 ,for what distance he was intending to bear us company1 ,i have no notion4 ,the house of an acquaintance1 at the gate of which were several persons1 who seemed at once to understand him1 and whose faces were so many open doors of curiosity1 finally relieved us of him4 ,it was evidently undesigned1 and he pulled up1 ,i thought1 somewhat reluctantly4 ,,chapter ,,lviii4 ,,evening ,,ride ,,to ,,mrs4 ,,kelly',s ,,tavern4--,,the ,,supper1 ,,and ,,the ,,lodging4 ,,at a sort of half-way house1 the driver of the baggage-wagon stopped to feed and water1 and ,i walked on alone1 leaving the painter with his sketch-book4 ,for a mile or more1 the road wound its way through thick woods1 mostly spruce1 and 8,i whistled as ,i went10 certainly not 8for want of thought10 and sang for the solitude1 and was answered by the ringing echoes and the wood-thrush1 whose sweet melody1 sounding with a silvery1 metallic ring1 often made me pause and listen4 ,red raspberries1 pendent from the slender bushes1 tempted me frequently to spring up the broken1 earthy bank1 where1 to my surprise ,i met the first strawberries coming on from the juicier climes4 ,ruby darlings1 they had got only thus far along1 and looked timid and disheartened1 dropping wearily into the mossy turf1 where they trembled like drops of blood4 ,and so ,i loitered along the lonely highway1 up which the sweetest of all the fruits were coming1 and over which the wild birds were pouring forth their songs1 and felt that ,i was only very1 very happily going on toward heaven1 taking home and loving1 and beloved ones by the way4 ,in the middle of the forest1 ,i met a tall1 thin ,indian in ragged1 ,english dress4 ,he passed me by silently1 and with an air of bashfulness4 ,i was a little disappointed4 ,when ,i saw him approaching1 ,i proposed to myself a rest upon a log near by1 and a talk with the man about his people4 ,the wagons came up presently1 and ,i resumed the reins1 having1 at the outset1 been voted by a small majority much the better whip4 ,late in the afternoon1 we came upon the shores of ,bras ,d'or1 a fiord or inlet extending in from the ocean1 and winding for many miles among hills1 farms and woodlands in a manner exceedingly picturesque4 ,the ride was lovely1 too lovely for the merriment in which we had been freely indulging4 ,ebullitions of mirth gave way to thoughts and emotions arising from the beauty of the scenery and the hour4 ,clouds of dazzling flame1 and a rosy sunset were reflected in the purple waters4 ,as we came on at a rapid pace through the twilight and the succeeding darkness1 rounding the hills abutting on the water1 and thridding bits of wood1 we settled into a stillness as unbroken as if we had been riding alone4 ,it was nearly ten o'clock when we arrived at our inn1 none the worse for our drive of thirty-two miles1 good measure4 ,our inn6 ,imagine1 if you will1 a long1 low-roofed1 dingy white house1 with a front piazza1 and hard by a sign swinging from the limb of a broad shade tree1 creaking harsh plaints to the lazy breeze1 and1 in dark letters1 asserting from year to year that this is the traveller's home4 ,if it be your pleasure to indulge in such imaginings1 let me at once assure you that in our ,cape ,breton ,inn there is no corresponding reality4 ,instantly extinguish from your mind said white house1 tree and sign1 and put in the place of them a log cabin of the old school1 in the naked arms of the weather1 backed by a stumpy field and weedy potato-patch1 and fronted by a couple of rickety log sheds4 ,that antique mensuration accomplished by the swinging of a cat would very nearly decide the whole extent of the interior1 one side of which is a fire-place and fire1 around which revolve1 as primary orb1 the hostess1 ,mrs4 ,kelly1 and as satellites1 a son and daughter and maid-servant4 ,with all these powers1 and with ample time1 you may guess that we sat down at last to a savory and generous supper4 ,there was tea1 somewhat intimate1 to be sure1 with the waterpot1 and there was bread1 nice as the ,queen herself ever gets at ,balmoral4 ,the butter1 alas6 was afflicted with that ailment which seems to be chronic throughout these her majesty's dominions1 rancidity and salt4 ,but the milk was creamy1 and the eggs fresh as newly-cut marble1 and the berry-pie1 served at the hands of the daughter1 a neat and modest girl with pretty face and figure1 was a becoming finish to the meal4 ,mrs4 ,kelly is a ,highland widow1 of whom a story may be told1 not indeed of the tragic character of ,sir ,walter's ,highland ,widow1 but sufficiently mournful4 ,she walked back and forth before the door1 and seemed to take a melancholy pleasure in relating it4 ,two fine boys had been tempted to leave her1 of whom she had not heard a syllable for years1 but for whom1 even then1 she was looking with the hope and yearning love of ,margaret in ,wordsworth's 8,excursion40 ,her husband1 kind man1 was in the grave4 ,her two children and her little farm were much to be thankful for4 ,but then it was not ,scotland4 ,a sad day for her when they were persuaded to leave 8home40 ,the land here was not productive1 and the winters were so long and snowy4 ,there was1 however1 a bright side to her fortunes1 and ,i tried to make her see it4 ,at the conclusion of the talk1 she asked me in to read a chapter1 and offer the evening prayer4 ,it was getting late1 and ,i asked to retire4 ,i found that we had retired4 ,we were sitting in our private chamber1 and the closely-curtained bed behind us1 a match for one in an opposite corner1 too long and too wide for a lad in his teens1 was the appointed couch for two of us1 and all ready4 ,there were nine or ten of us1 all told1 and among them the daughter's lover1 a good-looking and very well-appearing young man4 ,now that we were provided for1 it was certainly no concern of ours how and where the others were to lodge1 although ,i could not avoid feeling some interest in the matter4 ,to hasten things to a conclusion1 ,i rose1 wound my watch1 took off my boots1 my coat and vest1 demonstrations of my intention of going at once to bed that were not mistaken4 ,immediately all walked out of the house1 and remained out1 talking in the open air1 until we were snugly packed away and pinned in behind the scant curtains1 when they returned1 and noiselessly went to rest in some order peculiar to the household1 dividing between them the other bed1 the floor1 and the small chamber under the roof4 ,when1 in her native land1 an ebony lady entertained ,mungo ,park1 she and her maids lightened their nocturnal labors--spinning cotton--by singing plaintive songs1 the burden of which was 8the poor white man who came and sat under our tree40 ,thus our two maidens lightened both their labors and our slumbers1 but by a less poetic process4 ,while they busied themselves with sweeping the house1 and washing dishes until after midnight1 they kept a continual whispering1 the subject of which was1 in part1 the poor sunburnt men who came to sleep under their curtains--but could not do it4 ,considering that the daughter had a sweetheart in the house1 the sibilant disturbances of the girls were meekly suffered until they naturally whispered and swept their way to bed4 ,after this we had a fair field1 and did our best to improve it4 ,the room being warm and smoky1 ,i unpinned the curtain1 and started for fresh air1 stealing out as quietly as possible4 ,treacherous door6 ,when ,i had succeeded in hitting upon the wooden latch1 up it came with a jerk and a clack that went1 it seemed to me1 to the ears of every sleeper4 ,i waited till ,i thought the effect of the noise had passed away1 when ,i began slowly opening the door4 ,it squealed like a bagpipe1 startling the dreamers from their pillows1 and arousing suspicions of a rogue creeping in1 while it was only the restless traveller creeping out4 ,there had been a kitten mewing at the door for some time4 ,with tail erect1 she whipped in between my feet4 ,there was a puppy outside also1 and some pigs2 each in its way promising to keep up till daylight the serenade of barking and grunting1 with which1 from an earlier hour1 they had entertained us4 ,it was starlight1 and ,i could see my ground1 as ,i thought4 ,i determined to have satisfaction by setting the dog upon the pigs1 and then flogging the dog4 ,rapping one over the head with a bean-pole1 by way of prelude to rapping the other1 the puppy instantly joined in the assault1 which1 but for an unlucky stubbing of my naked toes1 would have proved successful4 ,i flung down my bean-pole with disgust1 and beat1 instead of the young rascal of a dog1 an inglorious retreat4 ,for the rest of the night1 it was a triumph with the enemy1 reinforced by some goslings and quacking ducks4 ,if there was needed any more rosin on the bow that kept sawing across my tightly tuned nerves1 two or three fleas supplied it at short intervals4 ,the bite of the little villains made me jump like sparks of fire4 ,there was1 also1 toward the chilly morning hours1 a tide in our affairs1 a regular ebb and flow of bed-clothes1 and a final cataract of them1 the entire sheet descending into some abyss1 from which we never succeeded in recovering hardly any thing more than some scanty edges and corners of a blanket4 ,it was a wonder to me how my companion in arms could sleep as he did1 a pleasure he declares he did not enjoy2 but in his restlessness was surprised that ,i could slumber on so soundly1 and snore through so many troubles--a dulness from which1 of course1 ,i tried stoutly to clear myself4 ,thus1 as frequently happens1 each imagined the other to have slept1 and himself to have been wakeful all night4 ,undoubtedly1 both waked and slumbered1 and magnified the several small annoyances4 ,when we were ready to get up1 which was disagreeably early1 the household was stirring4 ,but a peep through the crevice of the curtains1 which had been carefully pinned together again by some fingers unknown1 while we were dreaming1 gave the needful hint1 when out they went again among the ducks and goslings4 ,we sprang out of bed1 and dressed with all reasonable dispatch--an exercise in which we were slightly interrupted by a younger puppy1 the pestilent animal persisting1 in spite of a kick or two1 in springing at and nibbling our feet4 ,,chapter ,,lix4 ,,sunday ,,at ,,david ,,murdoch',s4--,,the ,,scenery ,,of ,,bras ,d',,or4 ,,saturday1 ,july #bc4 ,we were off betimes1 and trundling right merrily again along the hilly shores of ,bras ,d'or1 a much more expanded sheet of water than yesterday4 ,at three o'clock1 ,p4 ,m41 we arrived at ,david ,murdoch's1 the end of our journey with ,dearing's conveyances1 and where we remain until ,monday morning4 ,i have just returned from a walk through wood and meadow1 picking berries by the way1 and now wait for dinner1 which1 from the linen on the table1 the look of the landlady1 and the general air of things1 promises uncommonly well4 ,from this frequent mention of the quality of our dinner1 it may be thought that ,i think them of great importance4 ,i do think them of very great importance2 not so much because good meals are necessary and the best on mere sanatory grounds1 but because they are an allowable luxury1 especially at a time when one is apt to have a sharp appetite and good digestion4 ,a man is something of an animal1 and likes excellent eating for the comfort of it1 and the stomach's sake1 and that like is defensible on good moral grounds4 ,i need not add1 that the indulgence of it should have upon it the bit and curb of moderation2 in the application of which moral force consists temperance1 a virtue that stands not in the scantiness1 the meanness1 or the entire absence of things drank and eaten1 but in the strong1 controlling will4 ,after this brief apology for the hungry traveller's love of bountiful dinners well and neatly served1 ,i will return to the sylvan nook where ours1 for to-day and to-morrow1 are to be cooked and eaten4 ,we are at the foot of a high1 broad hill1 verdant with meadows and pastures1 and checkered with woods and orchards1 around the lake-end of which the road comes gracefully winding down to the creek and the bridge close by4 ,the expanse of water lying off to the west1 as you might have guessed1 is named ,st4 ,peter's ,bay1 and the buildings1 a mile or more distant along the spruce and pine-covered shore1 is ,st4 ,peter's itself1 a village4 ,the accommodations of ,mr4 ,murdoch are ampler than those of the ,widow ,kelly2 and the brown1 wooden house stands backed into the thick evergreen forest1 the front door dressing to the right and left1 with its square-toed stone step in line with the trees along the street4 ,we have each a neat room1 softened under foot with a rag carpet1 and dimmed by a small window and its clean white curtain4 ,the narrow feather-beds are freshened with the cleanest linen4 ,we have seen the last of our driver1 who returns to-day as far as the ,widow ,kelly's4 ,with one horse attached to the hinder end of the forward wagon1 he went over the bridge and up the hill1 8an hour and a half ago40 99 99 99 99 99 ,,sunday1 ,july #bd4 ,we rest according to the commandment1 and have religious service in the family1 the members of which1 like most of the ,scotch of ,cape ,breton1 are ,presbyterians4 ,in the afternoon1 we sauntered through the adjoining woods and fields1 picking a few strawberries1 and giving to ourselves a practical illustration of the ease with which people slip into the habit of ,sabbath-breaking1 who live in out-of-the-way places1 distant from the parish church1 and beyond the restraints of a well-ordered community4 ,in the course of our walk1 we came out upon the beach1 and looked at the beautiful evening sky across the water4 ,bountiful ,providence6 ,where hast thou not sown the seeds of loveliness1 and made the flowers of glory bloom8 ,celestial colors are also beneath the foot4 ,the swells that fretted1 and left their froth along the sloping sand1 were freighted with the jelly-fish1 several of which were of the most exquisite purple4 ,,chapter ,,lx4 ,,off ,,for ,,the ,,strait ,,of ,,canso4--,,st4 ,,peter',s ,,and ,,the ,,country4--,,david ,,murdoch',s ,,horses1 ,,and ,,his ,,driving4--,,arrive ,,at ,,plaster ,,cove4 ,,monday1 ,july #be4 ,we are out 8by the dawn's early light10 and assist in getting our baggage upon the coach1 as ,david ,murdoch calls his two-horse covered wagon1 which is to carry us on to the ,strait of ,canso4 ,we have breakfasted1 and all is ready4 ,as ,i pen these notes1 here and there by the wayside1 ,i keep them mainly in the present tense4 ,david1 a little fair-complexioned1 sandy-whiskered farmer1 innkeeper1 stage-proprietor1 and driver1 all in one1 is exactly the man for his vocation4 ,quick in his motions1 intelligent and good-tempered1 he is entirely to our purpose4 ,he starts his ,cape ,bretons1 a span of light1 wiry animals1 upon a canter1 in our opinion an indiscreet pace4 ,we pass ,st4 ,peter's1 a superlative place--superlatively minute1 the smallest city in the world4 ,it had1 for several years1 one house1 but has of late been in a more thriving condition4 ,it has now a name on the map1 a population of some nine or ten souls1 and two houses1 a large public work in the shape of a beach1 and a little shipping1 not able to say how much exactly1 as it is all absent but a skiff and a bark canoe1 and the wreck of a schooner1 in a poor and neglected condition4 ,how long1 at this rate of progress1 it will take for ,st4 ,peter's to grow out of existence1 is a fair question of arithmetic1 left for the statist of the island to cipher out4 ,we pause for a moment only1 and that in front of a mercantile establishment1 if one may guess from a tin-foil-covered paper of tobacco1 and astride of it a couple of pipes in the window1 but dash through its suburbs1 a pig-pen and a hen-roost1 and pass the gates of a calf-pen and a potato-patch1 and gain the open country1 a wild and lonesome tract1 half-wooded1 and the other half weeds1 brush1 and stumps of all calibre and colors1 from rotten-red and brown down to coal-black1 and all torn to pieces1 and tangled into one briery wilderness1 just fit for the fires that occasionally scour through4 ,we were mistaken about the indiscretion of ,david1 in his driving1 and add two more to the list of those impertinent travellers who hastily pass judgment upon persons and things of which they are quite ignorant4 ,david is the ,jehu of the road1 and his steeds are chosen1 and fitted to their master4 ,like locomotives1 they work with the greater ease and spirit as they wax hotter4 ,for three hours they trotted1 galloped1 ran1 as if something more than horse was in them1 and something worse than man was in their driver4 ,there was2 as we knew by the flame in his face and about his nostrils1 and by his breath that had spirit in it4 ,around the hills1 and at their foot1 over bridges1 and through the bushy dales1 the road described many a ,hogarth's line of beauty1 and many a full-blooded ,s4 ,in whirling through these graceful sinuosities1 now strongly on the right wheels1 then heavily on the left1 flirting the dust or mud into the air1 we seemed to swim or fly on the oily brim of peril4 ,expostulation flashed out upon the lips in vain4 ,a shake of the head1 and a knowing smile1 sharpened off by the crack of the whip1 restored assurance1 and fairly straightened all things out4 ,but all went well1 and passengers as well as driver became rash and brave1 and foolishly came to like and applaud what at first they were disposed to protest against4 ,a change of horses has enabled ,david to persist in this extraordinary driving1 which brings us to ,plaster ,cove at noon1 where we part with both the mercurial little ,scotchman1 and ,cape ,breton4 ,thus have we coasted1 and crossed this ,british ,island1 in which1 with all that is repulsive and desolate1 nature has done much1 especially in the picturesque1 and where agriculture and commerce have large fields for improvement4 ,to the tourist that loves nature1 and who1 for the manifold beauties by hill and shore1 by woods and waters1 is happy to make small sacrifices of personal comfort1 ,i would commend ,cape ,breton4 ,your fashionable1 whose main object is company1 dress1 and frivolous pleasure with the gay1 and whose only tolerable stopping-place is the grand hotel1 had better content himself with reading of this ,island4 ,,chapter ,,lxi4 ,,adieu ,,to ,,david ,,and ,,cape ,,breton4--,,the ,,strait ,,of ,,canso4--,,our ,,nova ,,scotia ,,coach4--,,st4 ,,george',s ,,bay1 ,,and ,,the ,,ride ,,into ,,antigonish4 ,,plaster ,,cove1 a small village1 and our dining-place1 is at the main point of departure for ,nova ,scotia on the ,strait of ,canso1 a river to all appearance1 and not unlike the ,niagara1 pouring its deep1 green tides back and forth through its rocky channel1 overlooked by cliffs and highlands4 ,directly opposite1 the hills rise into quite a mountain1 thickly wooded1 down the sides of which is a broad clearing for the telegraphic wire connecting with the ,atlantic cable4 ,at first a very high tower of timber was erected on this1 the ,cape ,breton side1 in order to carry the wire above the highest mast1 but it was soon abandoned and left to fall into ruin4 ,the wire is now submerged1 and enters the water in the form of a substantial iron rope strong enough for the anchor of a man-of-war4 ,two o'clock1 ,p4 ,m41 we crossed the strait in a small sail-boat1 and encountered quite a disagreeable sea1 enough so to give us a few dashes of salt water1 and frighten the women that were in company4 ,we have a two-horse post-coach1 of queer shape and uncomfortable dimensions1 being short and narrow in the body1 but tall enough to serve for a canopy at the head of a procession4 ,one could easily spread his umbrella overhead1 and find some inconvenience in disposing of it closed down below4 ,to ,antigonish1 the town for which we start in this--,i am at a loss to determine whether antique1 or an anticipation of the future--carriage1 it is thirty-six miles1 and not greatly different from as many miles lately passed over1 if ,i may guess from what ,i can see for a mile ahead4 ,our fellow-sufferers in this strait jacket of a carriage are ,scotchmen1 and think in ,gaelic before they speak1 ,i imagine1 as have many of them that we have met4 ,they are much amused at the humour of the painter1 of whose vocation and standing in the world they have not the remotest notion4 8,st4 ,george1 he was for ,england1 ,st4 ,denis was for ,france2 ,sing1 ,honi soit qui mal y pense10 is the refrain of ,master ,john ,grubb1 of ,christ ,church1 ,oxford1 his ballad1 rehearsed at the anniversary feast of ,st4 ,george's club1 on ,st4 ,george's ,day1 the #bc;d of ,april4 ,and now for the reason that ,i have been humming this classic nonsense1 or rather that ,i should have thought of it3 ,to the north of us is a blue expanse1 dotted and bordered by inlands1 headlands1 and the warm blue heights of ,cape ,breton4 ,it is a kind of azure reticule1 or pocket of the ,gulf1 and was early christened1 by whom ,i cannot tell1 ,st4 ,george's ,bay4 ,this is the second ,bay in honor of the martyr of ,nicomedia1 the patron ,saint of ,england1 to repeat a popish fancy1 that we have encountered within a few days4 ,and truly1 could the old religious hero revisit these earthly scenes1 he would own that they had given his name to a very fine extent of water1 whose purple hills to the northeast stand at the opening of the ,strait of ,canso4 ,due north1 a vessel would touch1 in a few hours' sail1 the eastern cape of ,prince ,edward's ,island1 the garden of all the ,gulf1 another region for the summer traveller4 ,these landscapes of island1 sky1 and water are softly beautiful in the afternoon and sunset lights1 but scarcely picturesque1 and never grand4 ,the country is dull and wearisome1 gently diversified with hill and dale1 woodlands and farms1 in no very high state of culture1 and thinly populated4 ,there is some advantage1 however1 resulting from this dulness of scenery3 it drives us to ourselves for entertainment4 ,a merrier time ,i do not remember than that lately passed on the driver's seat4 ,the theme was scarecrows--a peculiar walk of art1 in which the painter1 during a recent stay in a remote part of the country1 became sufficiently adept to frighten1 not only the little creatures that pulled up the corn1 but even the larger ones that planted it4 ,to such perfection did he finally carry old clothes and straw1 that1 like the statue of ,pygmalion1 his images became indued with life1 and ended with running after the astonished rustics of the neighborhood4 ,we ride into ,antigonish1 a thriving village1 with pretty white houses and spreading shade-trees1 at dusk1 and alight at a comfortable tavern1 where we sup on salmon1 and rest until after midnight4 ,,chapter ,,lxii4 ,,new ,,glasgow4--,,the ,,ride ,,to ,,truro4--,,the ,,railway ,,ride ,,to ,,halifax4--,,parting ,,with ,,the ,,painter4 ,,tuesday1 ,july #bf4 ,new ,glasgow4 ,we halt here for breakfast1 after a sociable and merry ride of several hours from ,antigonish1 where1 after a refreshing sleep1 we were favored by a change of coaches1 and the pleasant company of an officer of the ,english army4 ,here is a broad and fertile vale with a pretty river and town2 all reminding us of ,new ,england4 ,across the river are coal-mines1 a railroad1 and the roar of cars1 merely coal-cars1 however4 ,tide-water is close by1 setting in from the ,strait of ,northumberland1 the lengthy water lying between the mainland and ,prince ,edward's ,island4 ,we are all ready for our ride to ,truro1 on ,mines ,bay1 or a spur of it1 an eastern reach of the ,bay of ,fundy1 and distant forty miles1 where we take the cars for ,halifax1 or all the world4 ,those wonderful cars6 ,why1 at ,truro1 ,i shall begin to feel at home1 a point more remote than ,europe1 in the day of only sails and horse-power4 ,the ride is cheering1 as we take it on the coach-top in the breezy1 bright day4 ,broad farms1 with barns and dwellings1 grass and grain and orchards1 cattle and bleating sheep spread out upon the hills1 and stretch along the valleys4 ,the plain of ,truro has many of the features of a populous and well-cultivated county4 ,its groves and trees and wide meadows1 waiting for the mower1 form a pretty and extended landscape4 ,the town itself1 reached at three o'clock1 with its central square and grass and shades1 is too much like a village of ,new ,england to need further mention4 ,while at dinner1 the whistle of the locomotive indicated the direction of the station1 a welcome call1 which we obeyed with rather more than ordinary alacrity4 ,the ride to ,halifax1 which occupied from four o'clock until dusk1 was by no means at ,yankee speed1 and took us through a thinly inhabited country1 somewhat broken1 and interspersed with woods and waters--a region that makes no very definite or lasting impression1 and yet one that the traveller looks out upon with some pleasure4 ,the last few miles along the banks of the river flowing into ,halifax ,bay was a lovely valley ride4 ,rounded hills and bluffs green and bowery1 and handsome residences looking out between pretty groves and down grassy lawns1 never appeared more attractive4 ,had we been going the other way1 perhaps they would not have seemed deserving of more than a passing look4 ,in the weary hours1 and along the torrid portions of the path of life1 ,i am sure that ,i shall remember the quiet1 refreshing scenery of that river1 and wish myself among its graceful and placid beauties4 ,from the noisy station we trundled in an omnibus through the narrow streets of an old-fashioned1 hill-side city1 crowned with a fortress looking off south upon a bay and the distant ocean1 and alighted at a hotel of stories and many windows1 where we heard a gong1 instrument of ,pandemonium1 and took tea with the relish of medicine1 and talked over the conclusion of our journey4 ,as haste was more requisite on my part1 ,i resolved to post across the province to ,windsor1 that night1 and leave the painter to wend his way homeward at his leisure4 ,,chapter ,,lxiii4 ,,coach ,,ride ,,at ,,night ,,from ,,halifax ,,to ,,windsor4--,,the ,,prince ,,edward',s ,,man1 ,,and ,,the ,,gentleman ,,from ,,newfoundland4 ,,immersed in fog1 and shut up in a small coach1 three of us1 a ,prince ,edward's man and a gentleman from ,newfoundland1 rode at a round trot1 with but two or three brief intermissions1 from ten o'clock in the evening until six next morning4 ,the country1 ,i conclude--if a man may have any conclusions1 who rides with his eyes fast shut1 and sleeps and nods--is a succession of hills and dales4 ,from the bridges1 over which we rumbled1 and from the crowing of the cocks at midnight and at dawn1 ,i argue that there were farms and streams4 ,my companions were agreeable4 ,being partners in the enterprise1 at the cost of twenty-two dollars and a half for an eight hours' drive1 we had fellow-feelings on all things in general1 and upon the expensiveness of night travelling in ,nova ,scotia in particular4 ,the ,prince ,edward's man1 a tradesman1 was on his first visit to the ,states1 in fact to the great world1 and was a modest1 thoughtful person1 who talked as men of merely home experience are apt to talk1 saying nothing to object to1 nothing to startle1 and some little to remember concerning the climate1 the society1 and products of his native isle4 ,the gentleman from ,newfoundland had seen the world to his soul's content1 and now was a most passionate lover of wild nature4 ,he had dined with nobility and gentry1 and could talk of them and of cities1 from the end of his tongue2 but of the pleasures of the sportsman in ,british ,america1 out of his very heart4 ,a more genial companion the lonely traveller could not easily light upon4 ,i had seen him before1 but forgot to mention it4 ,it was at ,murdoch's1 on the last ,sunday1 which ,i was sorry to recollect of him4 ,he drove up about noon1 in wood-man's dress partly2 washed1 dined1 and departed in great haste for ,pictou1 in order to reach ,halifax in time for the very steamer that we were hoping to catch4 ,with all his speed he missed it as well as we4 ,hinc ill lachrym4 ,in his conversation you heard the crack of the rifle1 and the roar of the forest and the ocean4 ,he was often reeling in the largest salmon and the finest trout1 and bringing down with a crash in the brushwood the fattest of all bucks4 ,the light of his nut-brown pipe1 a costly article1 flashing faintly on his well-marked face1 reminded me of the red blaze of camp-fires in the woods1 on the banks of mountain brooks1 and the shores of solitary lakes4 ,from one of a nature so companionable you part1 on the road1 after no longer than a day's acquaintance1 with genuine regret4 ,he was a character for the novelist1 with a head and countenance both for painter and sculptor4 ,,chapter ,,lxiv4 ,,windsor4--,,the ,,avon ,,and ,,the ,,tide4--,,the ,,steamer ,,for ,,st4 ,,johns1 ,,new ,,brunswick4--,,mines ,,basin4--,,coast ,,scenery4--,,the ,,scene ,,of ,,evangeline4--,,parsboro4--,,the ,,bay ,,of ,,fundy4--,,nova ,,scotia ,,and ,,new ,,brunswick ,,shores4--,,st4 ,,johns4--,,the ,,maine ,,coast1 ,,and ,,grand ,,manan4 ,,wednesday1 ,july #bg4 ,windsor1 ,n4 ,s4 ,soon after our arrival1 ,i walked down to the ,avon1 an arm of ,mines ,bay1 itself an expanded inlet of the great ,bay of ,fundy1 to view the wonderful tide4 ,it was not coming in1 as ,i had hoped1 but quite out1 leaving miles of black river-bottom entirely bare1 with only a small stream coursing through in a serpentine manner4 ,a line of blue water was visible on the northern horizon4 ,after an absence of an hour or so1 ,i loitered back1 when1 to my surprise1 there was a river like the ,hudson at ,catskill1 running up with a powerful current4 ,the high wharf1 upon which1 but a short time before1 ,i had stood and surveyed the black1 unsightly fields of mud1 was now up to its middle in the turbid and whirling stream1 and very nearly in1 the steamer from ,st4 ,johns1 ,n4 ,b4 ,in the course of an hour more ,i was on board1 and waiting for the turn of the tide1 upon which1 of necessity1 the boat takes her departure4 ,i had missed1 after all1 seeing the first approach of the tidal wave1 and had to content myself with what ,i have described1 and with a short walk in the town1 of late esteeming itself noteworthy on account of being the birthplace of ,general ,williams1 the hero of ,kars1 of whose fine personal appearance ,i have spoken4 ,we are now at the opening of the ,avon into ,mines ,bay or ,basin1 as they call this small sea1 and look upon scenes of which ,longfellow speaks in the first pages of his ,evangeline4 ,it is simply a pleasant-looking farming country1 checkered with fields of green1 now of a yellow tint and then of a blue4 ,shores of reddish rocks and sand make a pretty foreground line along the west1 and rise to the picturesque as they wind away northward4 ,headlands of gray and red rocks in slopes and precipices stand out in bold relief crowned with underwood and loftier trees4 ,the clouds are clearing away before the breeze1 and letting us have a sparkling sea1 a fine blue sky1 and landscapes dappled with light and shadow4 ,parsboro1 a village on the north shore of the ,basin1 enjoys more than its share of broad1 gravelly beach1 overhung with clifted and woody bluffs4 ,one fresh from the dead walls of a great city would be delighted with the sylvan shores of ,parsboro4 ,the beach1 with all its breadth1 a miracle of pebbly beauty1 slants steeply to the surf1 which is now rolling up in curling clouds of green and white4 ,here we turn westward into the great bay itself1 going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract1 whirling1 boiling1 breaking in half moons of crispy foam4 ,behind us is the blue reach of ,chignecto ,bay1 the northern of the two long and winding horns of the main body of water1 up which it would be play for a fortnight to hunt romantic scenery1 and witness the 8bore10 that most brilliant of all tidal displays4 ,here is a broad sea1 moving with strange velocity for a sea4 ,the prospect to the south is singularly fine4 ,nova ,scotia1 sloping from the far-off sky gently down to the shores1 its fields and villages and country dwellings gleaming in the warm noon-day1 or darkening in the shadow of a transient cloud--a contrast to the northern1 ,new ,brunswick coast1 iron-bound and covered with dark forests4 ,drops from a coming shower are wasting their sweet freshness upon the briny deep1 an agreeable discord in the common music of the day1 and chime in1 among pleasant incidents1 with the talk of the ,prince ,edward's man1 and the sparkling conversation of the ,newfoundland gentleman4 8,and so sail we0 into the harbor of ,st4 ,johns1 the last of the waters of this divine apostle1 in time for supper and a pleasant ramble about the city4 ,you might call it the city of hills4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,thursday1 ,july #bh1 #ahei4 ,st4 ,johns1 ,n4 ,b4 ,this is my last date1 and ,i write it out in full1 in the light of a fine morning1 on the deck of the steamer for ,portland4 ,the coast of ,maine1 truly picturesque as it is1 with its rocky points1 lake-like bays1 and islands bristling in their dark evergreens like porcupines1 and particularly ,mount ,desert ,island and ,frenchman's ,bay1 is the mildest form of ,newfoundland scenery as you see it on the ,atlantic side1 with an additional dressing of forest and vegetation1 sparsely studded with towns and habitations4 ,speaking of ,mount ,desert ,island1 recalls ,cole to memory1 who was1 ,i believe1 the first landscape painter of our country that visited that picturesque region4 ,i remember with what enthusiasm he spoke of the coast scenery--the fine surf upon ,sand ,beach--the play of the surge in the caverns of ,great ,head--the gean beauty of ,frenchman's ,bay--the forests1 and the wild1 rugged mountains1 from the tops of which he could count a multitude of sails upon the blue ocean1 and follow the rocky shores and sparkling breakers for many and many a mile4 ,familiar to me as all that has long since become1 ,i shall not pass it to-day without emotion4 ,grand ,manan1 a favorite summer haunt of the painter1 is the very throne of the bold and romantic4 ,the high1 precipitous shores1 but for the woods which beautify them1 are quite in the style of ,labrador4 ,i look upon its grand old cliffs with double interest from the fact that he has made me familiar with its people and scenery4 ,as it recedes from my view1 and becomes a dot in the boundless waters1 ,i will put the period to this record4 ,,the ,,end4 99 99 99 99 99 ,any of the ,books mentioned in this list will be sent post-paid to any part of the ,united ,states within #c1jjj miles1 on receipt of the money4 99 99 99 99 99 ,new ,books and ,new ,editions ,,published ,,by ,d4 ,,appleton ,,company4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the ,housekeeper's ,encyclopedia of ,useful ,information for the ,housekeeper in all ,branches of ,cooking and ,domestic ,economy2 containing the first ,scientific and ,reliable ,rules for putting up all kinds of ,hermetically-sealed ,fruits1 with or without ,sugar1 in ,tin ,cans or ,common ,bottles4 ,also1 ,rules for ,preserving ,fruits in ,american and ,french ,styles1 with ,tried ,receipts for ,making ,domestic ,wines1 ,catsups1 ,syrups1 ,cordials1 etc42 and ,practical ,directions for the ,cultivation of ,vegetables1 ,fruits1 and ,flowers1 ,destruction of ,insects1 etc4 ,by ,mrs4 ,e4 ,f4 ,,haskell4 #a thick vol4 #abmo4 #a #be4 ,the ,life and ,writings of the ,rt4 ,rev4 ,,geo4 ,,washington ,,doane1 ,d4,d41 ,,ll4,d41 for ,twenty-seven years ,bishop of ,new ,jersey4 ,in #d vols4 #hvo4 ,containing his ,poetical ,works1 ,sermons1 and ,miscellaneous ,writings2 with a ,memoir by his son1 ,,wm4 ,,croswell ,,doane4 ,vols4 ,i4 and ,,ii4 now ready4 ,price1 #b #ej each4 ,shakespeare's ,works4 ,edited1 with a ,scrupulous ,revision of the ,text1 by ,,mary ,,cowden ,,clarke1 ,author of the 8,complete ,concordance to ,shakespeare40 #a vol4 #hvo4 #ajfd pages4 ,illustrated with #di ,illustrations4 ,half mor41 top gilt1 #f2 half calf1 #g #ej2 mor41 extra1 #aj4 ---- #b vols4 #afjj pages4 ,illustrated with #di ,steel ,plates4 ,half mor41 top edges gilt1 #h2 half calf1 #aj2 full mor41 extra1 #ae4 ,education2 ,intellectual2 ,moral2 and ,physical4 ,by ,,herbert ,,spencer1 ,author of 8,social ,statics10 the 8,principles of ,psychology10 and 8,essays2 ,scientific1 ,political1 and ,speculative40 #a vol4 #abmo4 #a4 ,a ,christmas ,dream4 ,by ,,james ,t4 ,,brady4 ,illustrated by ,,edward ,s4 ,,hall4 ,the ,illustrated ,horse ,doctor3 being an ,accurate and ,detailed ,account1 accompanied by more than #djj ,pictorial ,representations of the ,various ,diseases to which the ,equine ,race is subjected2 together with the ,latest ,mode of ,treatment1 and all the ,requisite ,prescriptions1 written in plain ,english4 ,by ,,edward ,,mayhew1 ,m4 ,r4 ,c4 ,v4 ,s41 ,author of 8,the ,horse's ,mouth20 8,dogs3 their ,management20 ,editor of 8,blain's ,veterinary ,art10 etc4 7,nearly ready47 ,the ,new ,american ,cyclopdia3 a ,popular ,dictionary of ,general ,knowledge4 ,edited by ,,george ,,ripley and ,,chas4 ,a4 ,,dana4 ,vols4 ,i4 to ,x4 ,to be completed in #af vols4 ,price in cloth1 #c2 sheep1 #c #ej2 half mor41 #d2 half russia1 #d #ej4 ,abridgment of the ,debates of ,congress from #aghi to #ahef4 ,from ,gales and ,seaton's ,annals of ,congress2 from their ,register of ,debates2 and from the ,official ,reported ,debates1 by ,john ,c4 ,rives4 ,by ,,thomas ,h4 ,,benton1 ,author of the 8,thirty ,years' ,view40 ,vols4 ,i4 to ,,xiv4 now ready4 ,to be completed in #af vols4 ,price in cloth1 #c per vol42 law sheep1 #c #ej2 half mor41 #d4 ,villas on the ,hudson3 a ,series of ,thirty-one ,photo-,lithographs of ,gentlemen's ,seats on the ,hudson4 ,oblong #dto4 ,cloth1 #h2 half mor41 #aj4 ,the ,illustrated ,byron4 ,with upwards of ,two ,hundred ,engravings from ,original ,drawings1 by ,kenny ,meadows1 ,birket ,foster1 ,hallet ,k4 ,browne1 ,gustav ,janet1 and ,edward ,morin4 7,nearly ready47 ,fables1 ,original and ,selected2 with an ,introductory ,dissertation on the ,history of ,fable1 comprising ,bibliographical ,notices of ,eminent ,fabulists4 ,by ,g4 ,,moir ,,bussey4 ,illustrated with ,numerous ,engravings from ,designs by ,j4 ,j4 ,granville4 7,nearly ready47 ,adventures of ,telemachus4 ,translated by ,dr4 ,,hawkesworth4 ,embellished with upwards of #ajj ,engravings1 by first-rate artists4 #a vol4 #hvo4 7,nearly ready47 ,adventures of ,gil ,blas1 of ,santillane4 ,translated from the ,french of ,,le ,,sage by ,t4 ,,smollett1 ,m4 ,d4 ,embellished with #ejj ,engravings after ,designs by ,gignoux4 7,nearly ready47 ,on the ,origin of ,species by ,means of ,natural ,selection2 or1 the ,preservation of favored ,races in the ,struggle for ,life4 ,by ,,charles ,,darwin1 ,m4,a41 ,f4,r4,s41 ,f4,g4,s41 c41 c4 #a vol4 #abmo4 ,with copious ,index4 ,cloth1 #a #be4 ,after the ,icebergs with a ,painter4 ,by ,,louis ,l4 ,,noble4 #a vol4 #abmo4 ,with ,illustrations4 7,nearly ready47 ,the ,manufacture of ,photogenic or ,hydro-carbon ,oils1 from ,coal and other ,bituminous ,substances1 capable of supplying ,burning ,fluids4 ,by ,,thomas ,,antisell1 ,m4,d41 ,professor of ,chemistry in the ,medical ,department of ,georgetown ,college1 ,d4 ,c41 c41 c4 #a vol4 #hvo4 ,beautifully printed4 ,cloth1 #a #ge4 ,considerations on some of the ,elements and ,conditions of ,social ,welfare and ,human ,progress4 ,being ,academic and ,occasional ,discourses and other ,pieces4 ,by ,c4 ,s4 ,,henry1 ,d4,d4 #a vol4 #abmo4 #a4 ,science ,brought ,down to the ,year #ahfj4 ,being a ,supplement to ,ure's ,dictionary of ,arts1 ,manufactures1 and ,mines4 ,taken from the ,english ,edition4 ,with additions by an ,american ,editor4 7,nearly ready47 #hvo4 ,milledulcia3 a ,thousand ,pleasant ,things4 ,selected from 8,notes and ,queries40 #abmo4 ,cloth1 top edge gilt1 #a #ej2 in half calf1 #c2 morocco antique1 #c #ej4 ,chambers's ,encyclopdia3 a ,dictionary of ,universal ,knowledge for the ,people4 ,now publishing in ,parts4 ,part #ai now ready4 ,price #ae cents each ,part4 ,a ,greek ,grammar1 for ,schools and ,colleges4 ,by ,,james ,,hadley1 ,professor in ,yale ,college4 #abmo4 #cff pages4 #a #be4 ,virgil's neid2 with ,explanatory ,notes4 ,by ,,henry ,s4 ,,frieze1 ,professor of ,latin in the ,state ,university of ,michigan4 #abmo4 ,eighty-five illustrations4 #eih pages4 #a #be4 ,spanish ,grammar4 ,a ,new1 ,practical1 and ,easy ,method of ,learning the ,spanish ,language1 after the system of ,a4 ,f4 ,,ahn1 ,doctor of ,philosophy1 and ,professor at the ,college of ,neuss4 ,first ,american edition1 revised and enlarged4 #abmo4 #adi pages4 #ge cents4 ,key1 #ae cents4 ,an ,elementary ,grammar of the ,italian ,language4 ,progressively arranged for the use of ,schools and ,colleges4 ,by ,g4 ,b4 ,,fontana4 #abmo4 #bcf pages4 #a4 ,plato's ,apology and ,crito2 with ,notes4 ,by ,w4 ,s4 ,,tyler1 ,graves ,professor of ,greek in ,amherst ,college4 #abmo4 #ahj pages4 #ge cents4 ,french ,syntax4 ,a ,course of ,exercises in all parts of ,french ,syntax1 methodically arranged after ,poitevin's 8,syntaxe ,franaise20 to which are added ten appendices2 designed for the use of ,academies1 ,colleges1 and ,private ,learners4 ,by ,,frederick ,t4 ,,winkelmann1 ,a4,m4 ,ph4 ,d41 ,prof4 of ,latin1 ,french1 and ,german1 in the ,packer ,collegiate ,institute4 #abmo4 #cff pages4 #a4 ,appleton's ,railway ,guide4 ,containing ,time ,tables of all the ,railroads in the ,united ,states4 ,illustrated by ,maps of the ,principal ,roads and ,through ,routes1 and a large ,general ,map4 ,published semi-monthly4 ,price #be cts4 ,appleton's ,companion ,handbook of ,travel1 containing a full ,description of the ,principal ,cities1 ,towns1 and ,places of ,interest1 together with ,hotels1 and ,routes of ,travel through the ,united ,states and the ,canadas4 ,with colored ,maps4 ,edited by ,t4 ,,addison ,,richards4 ,paper covers1 #ej cts42 cloth1 #ge cts4 ,appleton's ,illustrated ,handbook of ,travel4 ,a ,guide by ,railway1 ,steamboat1 and ,stage1 to the ,cities1 ,towns1 ,waterfalls1 ,mountains1 ,rivers1 ,lakes1 ,hunting and ,fishing ,grounds1 ,watering ,places1 ,summer ,resorts1 and all ,scenes and ,objects of ,interest in the ,united ,states and ,british ,provinces4 ,by ,t4 ,,addison ,,richards4 ,with careful ,maps of all parts of the ,country1 and #bjj ,pictures of ,famous ,scenes and ,places4 ,from ,original drawings by the ,author and other ,artists4 #a vol4 #abmo4 #djj pages1 double columns4 ,flexible cloth4 ,price #a #ej4 ,the ,northern and ,eastern ,states separately1 #a4 ,the ,southern and ,western ,states separately1 #a4 ,beaumont and ,fletcher's ,works4 ,the ,poetical and ,dramatic ,works of ,beaumont and ,fletcher4 ,with an ,introduction by ,,george ,,darley1 to which is added ,notes and ,glossary4 #b handsome vols4 ,royal #hvo4 ,well printed4 ,cloth1 #f2 in sheep1 #g2 half calf1 extra1 #i4 ,moral ,emblems1 with ,aphorisms1 ,adages1 and ,proverbs1 of all ,ages and ,nations4 ,from ,,jacob ,,catz and ,,robert ,,fairlie4 ,with #abj ,illustrations truly rendered from ,designs found in their ,works1 by ,,john ,,leighton1 ,f4 ,s4 ,a4 ,the whole ,translated and ,edited1 with ,additions1 by ,,richard ,,pigot4 #a vol4 ,royal #hvo4 ,cloth gilt1 #g #ej2 mor41 #aj2 mor41 extra1 #ab4 ,the ,adventures of ,brown1 ,jones1 and ,robinson4 ,the ,most ,amusing ,adventures of ,three ,english ,gentlemen bearing the above euphonious names4 ,each incident in their ,travels on the ,continent is ,illustrated by a ,spirited ,design of a ,laughable ,character4 #a vol4 #dto4 7,nearly ready47 ,hopes and ,fears2 or2 ,scenes from the ,life of a ,spinster3 a ,novel4 ,by the ,author of 8,the ,heir of ,redclyffe40 7,nearly ready47 ,a ,history of ,civilization4 ,by ,,henry ,t4 ,,buckle4 ,vol4 ,i4 ,price1 #b #ej4 ,vol4 ,,ii4 7,nearly ready47 ,the ,history of ,herodotus4 ,a new ,english version4 ,edited with copious ,notes and ,appendices1 illustrating the ,history and ,geography of ,herodotus1 from the most ,ancient ,sources of ,information2 and embodying the ,chief ,results1 ,historical and ,ethnographical1 which have been obtained in the progress of ,cuneiform and ,hieroglyphical ,discovery4 ,by ,,george ,,rawlinson1 ,m4 ,a41 assisted by ,col4 ,sir4 ,henry ,rawlinson and ,sir ,j4 ,g4 ,wilkinson4 ,with ,maps and ,illustrations4 #d vols4 #hvo4 ,price #b #ej each4 ,reminiscences of a ,general ,officer of ,zouaves4 ,by ,,gen4 ,,cler4 ,translated from the ,french4 #a vol4 #abmo4 ,cloth1 #a4 ,life of ,william ,t4 ,porter4 ,by ,,francis ,,brinley4 #a vol4 #abmo4 #a4 ,the ,ebony ,idol4 ,by a ,lady of ,new ,england4 #a vol4 #abmo4 ,illustrated4 #a4 ,what may be ,learned from a ,tree4 ,by ,,harland ,,coultas4 #a vol4 #hvo4 #a4 ,the ,physiology of ,common ,life4 ,by ,,geo4 ,,henry ,,lewes4 #b vols4 #abmo4 #b4 ,notes on ,nursing2 ,what it ,is1 and ,what it is ,not4 ,by ,,florence ,,nightingale4 #a vol4 #abmo4 ,paper covers1 #ae cents2 cloth1 #be cents4 ,dr4 ,oldham at ,greystones1 and his ,talk there4 #a vol4 #abmo4 ,price #a4 ,voyage ,down the ,amoor2 with a ,journey through ,siberia1 and ,incidental ,notes of ,manchoria1 ,kamschatka1 and ,japan4 ,by ,,perry ,,mcdonough ,,collins4 #a vol4 #abmo4 ,cloth1 #a #be4 ,a ,run ,through ,europe4 ,by ,,erastus ,c4 ,,benedict4 #a vol4 #abmo4 ,price #a #be4 ,the ,history of the ,state of ,rhode ,island and ,providence ,plantations4 ,by the ,hon4 ,,samuel ,,greene ,,arnold4 #b vols4 ,price #e4 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,archaic spellings and hyphenation have been retained4 ,punctuation and obvious typesetting errors have been corrected without note4 ,some illustrations have been moved slightly from their original positions to keep paragraphs intact4 ,there are many references to ,st4 ,johns1 ,newfoundland throughout the book which have been left as printed but which would normally be spelled as ,st4 ,john's4 page xiv1 ,steamer for ,st4 ,johns1 ,new ,brunswick4 references to ,st4 ,johns1 ,new ,brunswick in the ,contents and throughout ,chapter ,,lxiv most likely refer to ,st4 ,john1 ,new ,brunswick4 page xiv1 ,mines ,basin4 ,mines ,basin as given in the ,contents and within ,chapter ,,lxiv most likely refer to ,minas ,basin4 page #cbf1 to ,truro1 on ,mines ,bay1 likely refers to ,minas ,basin 99 99 99 99 99 ,end of ,after ,icebergs with a ,painter1 by ,louis ,legrand ,noble