,,simplex ,,munditiis ,,simplex ,,munditiis ,,g5tlem5 ,illu/ration ,,new-,,york ,,! ,,de ,,v9ne ,,press ,,mdcccxci ,copyright1 #ahia1 by ! ,,simplex ,,munditiis ,,publi%+ ,,co4 ,,to ,,all ,,:o ,,admire ,,p]fect ,,dress ,,& ,,correct ,,social ,,habits ,?is ,book is ,d$icat$ ,,9 ,,! ,,hope ,,t ,,! ,,pr9ciples ,,x ,,tea*es ,,may ,,promote ,,/rict ,,obs]vance ,,( ,,! ,,usages ,,( ,,society4 ,,"p ,i ,,dress ,,= ,,g5tlem5 ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,introduction #aa ,,morn+ ,,we> #ae ,,aft]noon ,,dress #ba ,,ev5+ ,,dress #bg ,,! ,,ov]coat #cc ,,attire ,,= ,,rid+1 ,,driv+1 ,,travel+1 ,,ya*t+1 ,,& ,,l\ng+ #ch ,,h\se ,,we> #dh ,,sleep+ ,,attire #ej ,,l95 #ea ,,und]clo?+ #ee ,,! ,,art ,,( ,,dress+ ,,! ,,coll> #eg ,,walk+ ,,/ick ,,& ,,umbrella #fc ,,miscellanies #fe ,,dress ,,= ,,w$d+s--,,fun]als--,,*ri/5+s--,,at ,,home ,,or ,,*ur*--,,new ,,ye>',s ,,calls--,,m\rn+--,,*ur* ,,we>--,,susp5d]s--,,upp]s--,,attire ,,made ,,to ,,ord]--,,blondes ,,& ,,brunettes--,,jewelry--,,dress+ ,,case--,,articles ,,= ,,same--,,rubb]s--,,engli% ,,ra9 ,,attire--,,clo? ,,b&s ,,on ,,top-,,hats--,,wigs--,,op]a ,,glass--,,decorations--,,fans--,,tr\s]s ,,crease--,,pockets--,,monocle--,,dress ,,%ields--,,engli% ,,hunt ,,attire--,,hunt ,,ball--,,clos+ ,,rem>ks4 ,,introduction ,dress is ! embodim5t ( ta/e & ref9em5t4 ,a man looks1 & is1 di/+ui%$1 :5 he %[s simple elegance 9 8 dress4 ,x is n necess>y to h weal? 9 ord] to dress well4 ,) judgm5t & economy1 "o c be some?+ ( a dress]4 ,?is book is b a guide = m5 :o desire to dress1 & are p]plex$ by ! multitude ( ?+s !re are to we>1 & ! ev]-*ang+ /yles4 ,:5 a ?+ becomes vulg>ly popul>1 !n1 if y wi% to be 9 dress1 z well z mann]s1 a g5tleman1 ca/ x aside1 & seek some?+ new] & less common4 ,dress+ may be c>ri$ to any ext5t1 b x is n good ta/e to d s4 ,a g5tleman is conspicu\s = "o ?+ only--8 good ta/e4 ,above all dress are mann]s & grace4 ,)\t ^!1 "o c nev] be a g5tleman4 ,9 ! o!r "p ( ?is "w1 mann]s & cu/oms may be /udi$4 ,a g5tleman is a man ( ta/e1 culture1 & ref9em5t4 ,no man is a g5tleman :o m]ely does ! acts ( a g5tleman4 ,he mu/ %[ good bre$+--9 dress1 mann]s1 & conv]sation4 ,8 dress is ! p]fection ( raim5t4 ,8 mann] is grace & ease p]sonifi$4 ,8 conv]sation1 k itself4 ,pr\d1 inde$1 may ! man be :o c write aft] 8 "n--g5tleman4 ,let 8,simplex ,munditiis0 be y\r motto = dress4 ,ea* p]son mu/ rememb] "o ?+3 t1 to be di/+u 9 dress1 he mu/ dress1 z reg>ds mat]ial1 ri*ly2 &1 z to patt]n ( clo?1 pla9ly4 ,9 o!r words1 simple elegance %[s ! g5tleman4 ,ev]y?+ y we> mu/ be immaculate4 ,!re are ?ree dress divisions ( ! day3 ,morn+ we>4 ,aft]noon dress4 ,ev5+ dress4 ,! fir/ may be worn any "t ( ! day be=e #f ,p4 ,m41 ?\gh x belongs to ! morn+4 ,! second is n worn be=e #b ,p4 ,m4 ,! ?ird is n worn be=e #f ,p4 ,m4 ,! attire = all a?letic games1 sports1 amusem5ts1 = ! cl]gy1 & g5tlem5 9 ! army & navy1 x is n )9 ! prov9ce ( ?is "w to treat (4 ,9 fact1 we treat ( only t :i* is worn by a g5tleman at home or abroad1 9 summ] or w9t]1 :5 m+l+ 9 society4 ,illu/ration ,,morn+ ,,we> ,,worn ,,any ,,"t ,,( ,,day ,indoors or outdoors1 morn+ we> consi/s ( ! foll[+1 z ! ta/es ( ! we>] may dictate4 ,! ,head4--,! black felt d]by is ! prop] hat = morn+4 ,! light br[n 9 d]bys is a pleas+ *ange = spr+1 summ]1 or fall we>4 ,b nev] be )\t a black d]by1 z x is ! hat worn :5 n 9 =mal dress4 ,a d]by is nev] worn ) a frock body-coat1 a cutaway body-coat1 a ,c[es body-coat1 on a dress body-coat4 ,x belongs entirely to ! walk+ or sack body-coat4 ,h y\r hats made to ord]4 ,y w be bett] pleas$ 9 ! end4 ,! d]by is prop] & becom+ to m5 ( all ages4 ,i w\ld caution any "o aga9/ we>+ su* d]bys z are ( a pe>l1 gray1 drab1 slate1 & cig> br[ns4 ,^! are all 9 bad ta/e4 ,! sl\* felt hat is ignor$ by g5tlem54 ,if a man desires light %ades ( d]bys1 !n let him h !m ! same %ade z ! suit he we>s !m )4 ,! ,h&4--,gloves = morn+ we> %\ld be a d>k tan1 & made ( kid4 ,heavy weight = ! w9t] mon?s1 & v light = summ]4 ,raw seams & arr[-back /it*+ is ! /yle4 ,g5]ally "o button only on wri/4 ,! lead+ furni%+ %ops are recomm5d$ = gloves4 ,if possible1 h y\r gloves made to ord]2 y are !n sure ( a p]fect fit4 ,nev] we> a glove aft] x becomes soil$4 ,x is j z bad z hav+ dirty h&s4 ,! ,foot4--,calf-sk91 pat5t lea!r1 & enamel lea!r1 are us$ = walk+ %oes4 ,!y %\ld be made ) mod]ately ?ick soles1 tap] at ! toes1 & lace4 ,x is be/ to h %oes made to ord]4 ,no?+ ab\t a man's dress is s quickly notic$ z ill-fitt+ %oes4 ,! ,body4--,! body-coat3 ,?is is a black sack body-coat1 ei!r d\ble or s+le brea/$4 ,bo? /yles are correct4 ,! mat]ials us$ are ?ibets1 *eviots1 & black s]ges4 ,at pres5t !y are made ) f\r buttons1 v wide coll>s1 & v long 9 ! body4 ,! wai/coat3 ,?is always mat*es ! body-coat 9 mat]ial & patt]n4 ,likewise1 x may be d\ble or s+le brea/$4 ,x is n necess>y1 9 ?is respect1 = x to mat* ! body-coat4 ,tr\s]s3 ,^! may be ( any mat]ial & patt]n4 ,!y may mat* ! mat]ial ( ! body-coat1 or n1 z ! ta/e ( ! we>] may dictate4 ,x is bett] ta/e to we> d>k tr\s]s ) morn+ we>4 ,see t y\r tr\s]s h ! prop] cut1 & fit p]fectly4 ,?is is at once ! mo/ difficult to fit1 & ! uglie/ "p--if ill-fitt+--( ! attire = m54 ,!re=e1 give x ! mo/ att5tion4 ,9 ord] to h !m cut correctly y mu/ rely on ! fa%ion-plate & its accompany+ directions4 ,insi/ on y\r directions be+ foll[$ by ! tailor4 ,!re is also ! cutaway suit = morn+ we>4 ,?is is worn mo/ly by eld]ly & heavily built m54 ,x consi/s ( a cutaway body-coat f\r buttons1 wai/coat s+le-brea/$1 & tr\s]s4 ,^! ?ree pieces are always ( ! same mat]ial & patt]n4 ,! same ?+s are worn ) ?is z ) ! sack body-coat4 99 99 99 99 99 ,heavy clo?s = w9t] & light weights = summ] we>4 ,! sack body-coat becomes all m51 tall or %ort1 ?9 or /\t1 old or "y4 ,fancy s]ge wai/coats1 also f9e l95 wai/coats1 & sa%es 9 summ]1 may be worn ) ! sack body-coat4 ,nev] we> tr\s]s & wai/coat ( "o patt]n1 & body-coat ano!r2 x is exce$+ bad ta/e4 ,suits1 p]fectly correct & v elegant1 are made ( select$ mat]ials4 ,! sack body-coat1 wai/coat1 & tr\s]s are always1 9 ?is case1 f ! same piece ( goods4 ,"s beautiful mat]ials ( light %ades are made = summ] we>4 ,= w9t] we> d>k] & slightly heavi] mat]ials are us$4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a ,morn+ ,prom5ade ,dress4--,?is consi/s ( frock body-coat1 wai/coat1 & tr\s]s4 ,^! ?ree pieces are always cut f ! same mat]ial & patt]n4 ,! body-coat & wai/coat may be s+le or d\ble-brea/$4 ,only light %ades or patt]ns ( clo?s are us$4 ,nev] h ?is prom5ade dress 9 black4 ,! correct head cov]+ is ! black silk top-hat ) ?is prom5ade dress4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,aft]noon ,,dress ,,worn ,,aft] ,,two ,p4 ,m4 ,! ,head4--,a black silk top-hat4 ,always ( ! late/ patt]n1 ei!r ,p>is1 ,london1 or ,new-,york make4 ,all are equally /yli%4 ,?is hat1 above all o!rs1 %\ld be made to ord]2 ?is be+ necess>y if y desire a fit bo? becom+ & com=table4 ,9 ?is city spr+ & summ] h light weights4 ,= fall & w9t] a slightly heavi] hat is made4 ,?is is ! only prop] hat = aft]noon dress 9 summ] or w9t]4 ,! ,h&4--,light or d>k tan kid walk+ gloves are worn4 ,! back /it*+ may be black silk or same %ade z ! glove4 ,"o or two buttons4 ,undress$ kid gloves1 ei!r light or d>k %ades1 are also worn especially = aft]noon receptions4 ,! ,foot4--,! lea!rs us$ are pat5t1 & enamel4 ,lac$ ,blu*]s are worn at ?is "t ( day4 ,= summ] we>1 ! same1 or ! same lea!rs made 9 ties4 ,aga91 ,i caution y to pay p>ticul> att5tion to ! fit1 & h !m made to ord]4 ,y ex]cise y\r own ta/e z to ! /yle ! %oe is made 94 ,! ,body4--,! prop] body-coat is ! black cutaway4 ,?is is n[ made ) ?ree buttons1 & wide coll> cut l[1 s+le-brea/$4 ,! mat]ial us$ is diagonal4 ,?is body-coat %\ld be ( light weight1 z x is a dress body-coat4 ,fr5* ,?ibets are also us$4 ,! ,wai/coat4--,?is is made ( ! same mat]ial z ! body-coat4 ,x may be d\ble or s+le brea/$4 ,! wai/coat %\ld be cut l[ 9 front1 t ! l>ge puff sc>f may be well expos$4 ,f\r buttons4 ,wai/coats may be ( select$ mat]ials su* z fancy s]ges & f9e l95s4 ,9 summ] :ite or black silk sa%es are worn4 ,! ,tr\s]s4--,^! %\ld be c>efully select$ & well-fitt$4 ,! mat]ial & patt]n %\ld g well ) black1 z ?is is always ! color ( ! aft]noon body-coat4 ,any patt]n1 *ecks1 /ripes1 etc41 may be worn = aft]noon dress4 ,nev] we> l\d patt]ns2 !y are exce$+ly bad ta/e & r[dyi%4 ,nev] we> tr\s]s ( ! same mat]ial z ! body-coat or wai/coat1 z x is n aft]noon dress4 ,v light patt]ns may be worn 9 summ]4 ,9 w9t] slightly d>k] patt]ns are worn4 ,if pockets are plac$ 9 tr\s]s !y are apt to be us$2 ?is spoils ! set ( ! clo? ar\nd ! hips4 ,!re=e leave !m out if possible4 ,z a rule1 ! bottoms ( tr\s]s %\ld be turn$ up--ab\t two in*es--:ile walk+ 9 ! /reet4 ,( c\rse1 on a cle> day ?is is unnecess>y4 ,frock ,body-coat4--,?is is ! =mal aft]noon dress body-coat4 ,9 ,p>is ! m5 we> no o!r4 ,x is nev] worn be=e #d4cj ,p4 ,m4 ,x is worn at day w$d+s1 at teas1 receptions1 & on ! prom5ade4 ,! mat]ial us$ is ! same z 9 a cutaway body-coat4 ,always black goods4 ,! same ?+s are worn ) a frock body-coat z ) a cutaway body-coat4 ,x is made s+le or d\ble brea/$4 ,! w>drobe ( a g5tleman is nev] complete )\t "o or m frock body-coats4 ,! frock body-coat is always worn button$4 ,x is worn 9 summ]1 b always ) a wai/coat4 99 99 99 99 99 ,! cutaway body-coat is worn button$ 9 w9t]1 & may sometimes be worn ) roll$ back coll> 9 summ]4 ,!re is also a d\ble-brea/$ cutaway body-coat1 ?ree buttons1 always black4 ,?is is worn m = prom5ad+ ?an any?+ else4 ,?is c be worn 9 w9t]--on mild days--)\t a top-coat or greatcoat4 ,! wai/coat mat*es x & ! tr\s]s are select$4 ,sometimes1 = prom5ad+ 9 ! spr+1 a frock body-coat ) wai/coat & tr\s]s ( ! same piece ( goods is worn4 ,9 ?is case ! mat]ial is "s smoo?1 light-color$ patt]n4 ,aga91 only a black silk top-hat c be worn ) ?is frock suit4 ,?is suit is worn )\t a greatcoat or light ov]coat4 ,aft]noon dress is worn at day w$d+s1 aft]noon receptions1 teas1 mat9es1 exhibitions ( all k9ds :]e ladies are pres5t1 & :5 prom5ad+ ) ladies4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,ev5+ ,,dress ,,worn ,,aft] ,,six ,p4 ,m4 ,?is is ! culm9ation ( gr&eur 9 ! dress ( g5tlem54 ,bulw]'s novel 8,h5ry ,pelham0 is responsible = ! almo/ complete blackness ( ! attire = ?is o!rwise gaye/ "t ( day4 ,! ,head4--,! black silk top-hat is supreme & only "h1 z 9 aft]noon dress4 ,same /yle z t worn = aft]noon dress4 ,! cru% op]a-hat is entirely out ( /yle 9 ?is city4 ,:5 indoors1 ! top-hat %\ld be c>ri$ 9 ! left h&4 ,! exceptions to ?is rule are dances1 ev5+ receptions1 & d9n]s4 ,! ,h&4--,! :ite kid glove goes ) ev5+ dress1 & mu/ always be worn ) x1 except at or dur+ a d9n]4 ,! back /it*+ may be self or black4 ,pe>l or gray %ades are sometimes worn4 ,no o!r cov]+ %\ld be worn on ! h& aft] #f ,p4 ,m4 ,if "o travels ?r\gh ! /reets & on ! c>s1 ! be/ glove to we>--& p]fectly prop]--is ! black kid glove1 ) black /it*+1 worn only :ile en r\te4 ,nev] we> tan-color$ or any light %ades ( gloves ) ev5+ dress1 indoors or out-(-doors4 ,x is bad ta/e1 & looks1 z x is1 %oddy4 ,y may we> :ite ev5+ gloves at any "t or place aft] #f ,p4 ,m41 & y are n complete 9 y\r dress unless y s d4 ,! ,foot4--,danc+ pumps are little worn 9 ?is city1 9 fact !y are pass4 ,! climate is su*1 a man c\ld nev] be out ( 8 c>riage1 if he wore pumps1 )\t risk ( a cat>rh4 ,! prop] %oe is made ( pat5t lea!r1 button1 kid upp]s1 & no tips4 ,?is is ! %oe = ev5+ dress4 ,h !m made to ord]1 z t is ! only way to secure a p]fect fit4 ,! ,body4--,! ev5+ dress body-coat is always ( a black mat]ial4 ,a radical *ange has tak5 place 9 ! mat]ial us$4 ,dress = ev5+ we>1 especially among "y m51 no long] consi/s ( ! heavy1 /iff broadclo?s & doesk9s1 b is n[ made ( f9e diagonals1 ( an almo/ silky texture4 ,?is is ! body-coat above all o!rs4 ,mu* c>e %\ld be giv5 ! fitt+ & /yle4 ,!y are made n[ ) %awl coll>1 & silk l9$4 ,nev] we> any k9d ( b9d+ on ! body-coat4 ,d n we> buttons & buttonholes on ! sleeve ( body-coat4 ,! /yles1 *ang+ ea* ye>1 %\ld be foll[$ m9utely4 ,9 ev5+ dress "o mu/ appe> a g5tleman1 if x is 9 him at all4 ,! ,wai/coat4--,mat]ials us$1 same z body-coat1 or :ite silks & black silks4 ,patt]ns select$ z ta/e directs4 ,( c\rse ! wai/coat is conf9$ /rictly to black or :ite4 ,x may be ?ree or f\r buttons2 d\ble or s+le brea/$4 ,x may be l[ or high4 ,nev] we> l95 wai/coats = ev5+ dress4 ,! ,tr\s]s4--,black1 & always ! same mat]ial z ! body-coat4 ,z mu* c>e is giv5 to ! set & fit1 z to t ( ! body-coat4 ,leave out pockets4 ,wide1 black1 silk-braid$ braid is worn on ! outside ( tr\s]-legs4 ,wid? ( legs1 m$ium4 ,! ,c[es or ,tux$o ,body-coat4--,?is is = in=mal ev5+ & home we>4 ,x is made ( ! same mat]ial z ! dress body-coat4 ,%awl coll>4 ,! same ?+s are worn ) x z ) ! dress body-coat4 ,x is worn at home1 to in=mal d9n]s1 ! club1 & ! !at]4 ,= ,sunday ev5+s ?is is worn 9 place ( ! dress body-coat1 ) dress wai/coat1 dress tr\s]s1 & black sat9 cravat4 ,aga91 only ! top-hat is worn ) ! ,tux$o body-coat4 ,knee-,bree*es4--,^! may be worn 9 place ( dress tr\s]s at any gr& ball1 reception1 or soire4 ,!y are black silk or black sat91 or same mat]ial z dress body-coat4 ,9 ,p>is & ,london !y are mu* worn4 ,pat5t lea!r pumps & black silk /ock+s are worn4 ,?is is ! only *ange 9 ev5+ dress1 :5 knee-bree*es are worn4 ,( c\rse1 9 ?is attire y mu/ always drive 9 a clos$ c>riage4 ,fl[]$ or figur$ color$ wai/coats1 d\ble or s+le brea/$1 may be worn2 :ite or black pref]r$4 ,! dress body-coats may also be 9 colors z well z black4 ,an elegant attire1 su* z ?is1 is to be worn = gr& =mal ev5+ dress4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,! ,,ov]coat ,greatcoat4--,?is is a heavy greatcoat1 ) or )\t a cape1 z fa%ion or ta/e may decide4 ,d\ble or s+le brea/$1 long or %ort4 ,x is worn dur+ ! day only1 ei!r ov] morn+ we> or aft]noon dress4 ,x is mo/ fa%ionable & elegant :5 made ( "s black or d>k blue mat]ial4 ,! v late/ 9 ?is greatcoat is made ?us3 v long--five in*es bel[ knee--no fit1 )\t seam 9 middle ( back--broad %awl coll> ( black velvet1 s+le-brea/$1 d>k blue box-clo?4 ,x is %\ld]-l9$ ) black silk4 ,= aft]noon dress we> only4 ,"o may foll[ 8 own ta/e 9 select+ a mat]ial = ?is day greatcoat4 ,?is is made to we> dur+ ! colde/ wea!r4 ,x %\ld be remov$ imm$iately on go+ indoors4 ,light ,ov]coat4--,= fall & spr+ we>4 ,?is is box cut1 made ( a light weight mat]ial4 ,! ov]coat = cool days & ev5+ we>1 z ov] ev5+ dress 9 summ]1 is ( "s select$ black mat]ial4 ,! day ov]coat or aft]noon walk+-coat is ( "s light patt]n1 select$ accord+ to ta/e ( we>]4 ,^! ov]coats are n[ cut v %ort4 ,^! ov]coats are worn ov] morn+ we> or aft]noon dress1 p>ticul>ly ! light %ades ov] ! latt]4 ,driv+ ,ov]coat4--,?is is a box-coat cut long or %ort4 ,d\ble or s+le-brea/$4 ,! color %\ld be light1 z x w n %[ du/4 ,heavy mat]ial is us$ = w9t] & light = summ] driv+4 ,! ,rid+ ,top-coat4--,?is is a %ort ,engli% box-coat4 ,! mat]ial is s(t & ( m$ium weight4 ,! color may be light or d>k4 ,! ,raglan4--8,"l ,*umly10 ,inv]ness1 or sleeveless1 greatcoat = ev5+ we>4 ,?is is ! only greatcoat to we> ov] ev5+ dress4 ,x is always black1 & ) a l>ge1 full-l5g? cape4 ,!re are no sleeves1 ! cape cov]+ ! arms completely4 ,?is is ! p]fect greatcoat to we> ov] ev5+ dress1 z remov+ & plac+ on c be accompli%$ )\t di/urb+ 9 any way ! dress4 ,?is greatcoat makes up = ! ugl9ess ( ! day ov]coats 9 ! graceful appe>ance x gives ! we>]4 ,x is worn at night only1 9 ! c>riage1 or on ! /reet4 ,x is remov$ on go+ indoors4 ,ul/]s1 fur greatcoats1 & greatcoats ) fur coll>s & cuffs1 may be worn = v cold wea!r4 ,!y are = day we> only4 ,! ,mack9to%4--,?is is made 9 any patt]n2 ! inn] l9+ be+ rubb]4 ,) or )\t cape4 ,d\ble or s+le brea/$4 ,light weights = summ] & heavy = w9t] we>4 ,x is worn by day only4 ,x may be worn ) morn+ we> or aft]noon dress4 ,9 ! latt] a top-hat %\ld nev] be worn ) a mack9to%4 ,only a d]by is worn4 ,9 all cl\dy1 damp1 or wet wea!r ! mack9to% appe>s4 ,x is n necess>y to c>ry an umbrella4 ,! mack9to% %\ld be worn v long1 & r loose 9 fit4 99 99 99 99 99 ,y may foll[ ! fa%ion-plate z reg>ds ! /yle y\r greatcoat or ov]coat is to be made 94 ,y w discuss ) y\r cutt] ! correct ?+ 9 seams1 l9+s1 buttons1 & pockets4 ,^! ?+s are con/antly *ang+1 & !re=e h no fix$ rule4 ,cov]$ buttons are worn only on light walk+ ov]coats & ev5+ greatcoats4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,attire ,,= ,,rid+1 ,,driv+1 ,,travel+1 ,,ya*t+1 ,,& ,,l\ng+ ,,rid+ ,! ,head4--,black d]by = w9t]4 ,br[n d]by = summ]4 ,a cord is atta*$ to ! hat1 :i* may be loos5$ & made fa/ to a body-coat button4 ,same /yle ( d]by z t us$ = morn+ we>4 ,! silk hat may be worn = =mal rid+ :5 )\t ! top-coat4 ,! ,h&4--,d>k tan gloves or gauntlets1 same z morn+ we>4 ,! ,foot4--,rid+ boots or %oes are worn1 accord+ to ta/e ( we>]4 ,! lea!rs us$ are pat5t or enamel4 ,spurs ( nickel or silv] plate are worn4 ,! crop is always c>ri$4 ,?is is silv] m\nt$1 & any select$ wood4 ,! ,body4--,a f\r-button1 s+le-brea/$ cutaway ( any select$ mat]ial & patt]n--n black--is ! prop] body-coat4 ,v %ort skirts4 ,wai/coat same1 or select$ mat]ial4 ,high cut2 s+le-brea/$4 ,tr\s]s4--,!y may be long1 ) /raps4 ,!y may be %ort--j bel[ knee--button$ at side & baggy above knee4 ,rid+ boots or legg+s are worn ) ! knee-bree*es1 :ile ) ! tr\s]s lac$ %oes are worn4 ,! legg+s are made to button1 /rap1 or hook4 ,! mo/ /yli% legg+s are ( ! same mat]ial z ! bree*es4 ,tr\s]s or bree*es %\ld be ( "s light patt]n2 mat]ial %\ld be /rong4 ,!y are l9$ on ! seat & inn] side ( legs ) *amois sk94 ,= ev5+ rides1 z 9 academies1 ! black silk top-hat1 :ite sude gloves1 s+le-brea/$1 black1 cutaway body-coat1 & /rap tr\s]s ( ! same mat]ial4 ,spurs & crop may be worn4 ,= eld]ly m5 ! black body-coat & /rap tr\s]s may be worn dur+ ! day4 ,,driv+ ,morn+ we> is worn = morn+ drives4 ,aft]noon drives1 if =mal1 aft]noon dress is worn4 ,! same rule holds good :5 y h&le ! ribbons1 z :5 ! coa*man occupies ! box4 ,! driv+ ov]coat is only worn 9 ! box seat4 ,,travel+ ,morn+ we> is ! prop] dress = all travel1 be x on ocean or l&4 ,sack suits1 d\ble or s+le brea/$1 are exce$+ly /yli% & com=table4 ,d>k color$ mat]ial is d\btless ! be/1 z x does n %[ ! du/ & we> ( travel4 ,heavy clo?s = w9t] & light weights = summ] travel4 ,,ya*t+ ,?is is worn on bo>d %ip any "t ( ye>4 ,= visit+ on %ore1 a day or s1 x may be worn1 if y\r tempor>y home is ! ya*t4 ,heavy mat]ial = w9t]1 & light weights = summ]4 ,head4--,! prop] head app>el is ! ya*t+ cap4 ,?is may be made 9 :ite or blue flannel1 s]ge1 or :ite canvas4 ,! ya*t+ cap is = morn+1 aft]noon1 or ev5+ we>1 9 port or at sea4 ,! ,h&4--,= all =mal affairs on bo>d %ip1 :ite sude gloves are worn4 ,9 w9t] or summ]1 tan kid gloves may be worn ) ya*t+ attire4 ,foot4--,ei!r a blue or :ite canvas lac$ %oe or tie1 ) rubb] soles1 = day we>4 ,= summ] ev5+ we>1 :ite sude or canvas ties4 ,= ! same 9 w9t]1 ev5+ dress-%oes4 ,body4--,= day we>1 ! d\ble-brea/$1 sack body-coat4 ,?is may be blue or :ite flannel1 or s]ges 9 blue or :ite4 ,brass buttons are g5]ally us$4 ,wai/coat4--,?is may mat* ! body-coat 9 mat]ial & color1 & cut1 or n1 z ! we>] desires4 ,tr\s]s4--,^! always mat* ! body-coat 9 mat]ial & color4 ,:ite canvas suits may be worn1 b !y are co>se & clumsy4 ,:ite tr\s]s may also be worn ) a blue body-coat4 99 99 99 99 99 ,= =mal occasions1 ev5+ we> on a ya*t consi/s ( ev5+ dress1 z on l&4 ,! silk neglig %irt is worn = day we>1 if pref]r$ to l954 ,! ties = day we> are f\r-9-h&s & cravats1 self-ty+4 ,^! are 9 silk1 ei!r :ite1 black1 or blue1 fl[]$1 figur$1 or solid colors4 ,de ,jo9villes1 also1 ti$ 9 b[ knots1 are worn4 ,,l\ng+ ,?is dress belongs /rictly to ! summ] mon?s2 x is nev] worn 9 ! city4 ,! ,head4--,= day we> !re is ! :ite split /raw1 ) :ite or black silk b&s4 ,also1 ! ya*t+ cap1 9 :ite or black4 ,?is is made ( flannel1 or a mat]ial mat*+ ! l\ng+ suit4 ,^! hats are worn = t5nis1 walk+1 driv+1 rid+1 day receptions1 lawn p>ties1 etc4 ,h[ev]1 ^! hats are nev] to be worn 9 ! city4 ,! ,h&4--,:ite sude gloves are worn ) l\ng+ suits1 :5 walk+ or driv+4 ,! ,foot4--,:ite canvas1 :ite sude1 tan or :ite bucksk91 & pat5t lea!r ties1 are worn ) l\ng+ suits4 ,= t5nis1 & games on ! lawn1 canvas1 or sude1 or bucksk9 %oes1 or ties1 ) ei!r felt or rubb] soles1 are us$4 ,h ^! %oes fit1 & look z neat z possible4 ,! ,body4--,fir/ ! mat]ial--?is may be s]ge or flannel--?\gh ! latt] is out1 = ! reason t x is m heat+ ?an s]ge--^! are always full :ite4 ,x consi/s ( a long or %ort sack body-coat1 wai/coat1 & tr\s]s4 ,! body-coat may be s+le or d\ble brea/$4 ,! wai/coat may mat* ! body-coat 9 cut & mat]ial or n4 ,fancy patt]ns may be us$4 ,tr\s]s are always ! same mat]ial & color z ! body-coat4 ,h ! cut loose1 & almo/ fl[+4 ,! tr\s]s may h a /ripe at ! side4 ,no pockets4 ,l\ng+ suits may also be made up 9 "s select$ patt]n1 z small *ecks or n>r[ black /ripes4 ,b !re is no?+ s ri* z ! solid :ite l\ng+ suit4 ,! sa% or kumm]bund4--,! l5g? is f f\r to five y>ds4 ,always tie y\r sa%--nev] we> ^? *eap1 common made-ups4 ,a sa% may be worn any "t ( day4 ,! mat]ial is always silk4 ,nev] we> any b solid colors4 ,black silks & :ite silks are ! mo/ elegant & correct4 ,sa%es ( m>oon or d>k blue are sometimes worn4 ,! ends hang ov] ! left hip1 & %\ld be ev5ly ti$4 ,! sa% is worn ) a l\ng+ suit1 morn+ we>1 aft]noon dress1 & ev5+ dress4 ,! :ite sa% is worn ) a :ite l\ng+ suit & ev5+ dress only4 ,! neglig %irt is made ( silk1 or *eviots4 ,h[ev]1 ?is is no long] worn by "y g5tlem5 ( fa%ion4 ,a ^w ab\t ?is %irt--x is d\btless v com=table1 & c be worn long] ?an l951 b x is n z cool z l951 nor does x look z well ab\t ! neck4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,h\se ,,we> ,! =mal dress is ! same z t worn at any o!r h\se4 ,9 ! privacy ( y\r rooms1 h[ev]1 y *ange ?is attire = some?+ t is loose & com=table4 ,sack body-coats ( select$ mat]ials are us$4 ,! tr\s]s are ( "s black or blue mat]ial1 z select$4 ,!re is also ! smok+ jacket & ! pok] jacket--^! are 9 _m v>ieties ( mat]ial & patt]n4 ,aga91 we h ! %ort & ! long dress+-g[ns4 ,!re are _m patt]ns to *oose f4 ,be=e & aft] ! ba?1 ! ba?-robe is put on4 ,?is diff]s f ! silk dress+-g[n 9 be+ made ( ,turki% t[el+4 ,no "p ( man's attire is m brilliant or beautiful ?an ?is robe4 ,! com=t exp]i5c$ 9 we>+ is only equal$ by its delicate & beautiful colors4 ,= ! feet we h ! slipp]2 ?is may be any lea!r & /yle y\r ta/e desires4 ,slipp]s are also made to mat* ! ba?-robe 9 mat]ial & patt]n4 ,y mu/ n we> any ( ^! ?+s out ( ! privacy ( y\r own ap>tm5ts4 ,= a lun* at home y w\ld we> morn+ we>2 a reception or tea1 aft]noon dress2 ev5+ affairs1 ev5+ dress4 ,x is z necess>y--9 fact1 x is due--:5 act+ ! "p ( ! ho/ to look y\r be/ z :5 y are a gue/4 ,:5 y d9e at home ev5+ dress is always requir$4 ,illu/ration ,,sleep+ ,,attire ,^! are pajamas--consi/+ ( a loose fitt+ sack coat1 & loose fitt+ tr\s]s4 ,! mat]ial & patt]n are select$ z ! we>] desires4 ,light weights = summ]1 & heavy = w9t]4 ,f9e l951 silks1 & *eviots are us$4 ,illu/ration ,,l95 ,,& ,,k]*iefs ,?is consi/s ( ! :ite l95 %irt4 ,x %\ld always be made to ord]1 if a fit is desir$4 ,! %irt op5s 9 front only4 ,y may h two or ?ree buttonholes 9 ! bosom4 ,! coll> & cuffs are atta*$4 ,nev] we> deta*able coll>s & cuffs4 ,?is %irt ) ! pla9 bosom is worn = morn+ we>1 aft]noon dress1 ev5+ dress1 or any o!r we> dur+ ! day4 ,! same /yle ( %irt is worn w9t] or summ]4 ,v elegant %irts are made = ev5+ dress1 consi/+ ( embroid]$ bosoms or frills ( l954 ,) ea* *ange ( we> ! l95 %\ld also be *ang$4 ,at lea/ ?ree *anges a day are made4 ,! /yle ( ! coll>4 ,?is may be v high1 or m$ium1 z y\r ta/e directs4 ,! cuffs %\ld ext5d to ! fir/ ?umb-jo9t4 ,cuffs are made ) r\nd or squ>e edges4 ,! high1 or /&+1 coll> is worn ) morn+ we>1 aft]noon dress1 ev5+ dress1 & all o!r dress4 ,! ,h&k]*ief4--,?is is ( pure :ite l951 ) :ite bord]s4 ,embroid]$ or n1 z ta/e dictates4 ,! same /yle is c>ri$ ) morn+ we>1 aft]noon dress1 or ev5+ dress1 or any o!r we>4 ,! upp] left outside pocket is ! place to c>ry x1 except 9 ev5+ dress1 :5 x is c>ri$ 9 ! left or "r side upp] inside wai/coat pocket4 ,! h&k]*ief ( silk is c>ri$ ) ev5+ dress only4 ,x is c>ri$ 9 ! "r h& :ile danc+1 & worn 9 ! %irt front4 ,x may be any patt]n desir$4 ,:ite silk is always ! body1 ! bord] only be+ color$4 ,! neck]*ief4 ,?is is ( silk1 select$ z to color & patt]n4 ,?is is worn ar\nd ! neck ) greatcoat dur+ cold wea!r4 ,x is n a good ?+ to we>1 z f> z heal? goes4 ,x is n necess>y to ! /yli% dress]4 ,a gold p9 may be worn 9 a neck]*ief4 ,wai/coat ,fac+s4--,^! are seldom worn n[ by ! dress]s4 ,! mat]ial us$ is l95 or silk1 always :ite4 ,!y are cut to mat* ! wai/coat1 op5+ ab\t ! tie4 ,worn 9 w9t] only4 ,!y c be worn ) morn+ we> or aft]noon dress4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,und]clo?+ ,?is consi/s ( %irt1 draw]s1 & half-hose4 ,! mat]ial may be flannel1 balbriggan1 or silk4 ,:ite is ! prop] color1 because x is pure & clean4 ,su* colors z p9k1 or blue1 or black may be worn4 ,h ! draw]s fit tight1 or ! tr\s]s w set ill4 ,half-hose4--,^! %\ld fit v tight4 ,!y %\ld mat* ! %irt & draw]s 9 mat]ial & color4 ,half-hose %\ld be 9 solid colors only4 ,morn+ we> & aft]noon dress4 ,:ite or black is ! mo/ elegant2 o!r %ades may be worn1 if desir$4 ,!y %\ld mat* ! und]we>4 ,= ev5+ dress1 :ite or black only4 ,:ite half-hose worn ) :ite und]we> only4 ,black half-hose ) :ite or black und]we> only4 ,half-hose ,support]s4--,^! are made to hold up half-hose4 ,!y are ( :ite silk4 ,o!r colors may be worn4 99 99 99 99 99 ,und]clo?+ %\ld be *ang$ at lea/ twice a day4 ,silk is worn always ) ev5+ dress4 ,indulge 9 ba?s z frequ5tly z possible4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,! ,,art ,,( ,,dress+ ,,! ,,coll> ,9 ties1 cravats1 & sc>fs we h two colors--^! are ! pr9cipals4 ,!y are black1 & :ite4 ,) ^!1 comb9$ or sep>ate1 ! mo/ elegant sc>fs are made4 ,!y may be figur$ or fl[]$1 or solid colors4 ,! mat]ials us$ are silks1 crpes1 sat9s & lawn4 ,! patt]ns--) black or :ite z a backgr\nd--are innum]able4 ,use all ! ta/e y c comm& 9 select+ ties4 ,rememb] t black is y\r pr9cipal body-coat color1 & select y\r ties accord+ly4 ,at ! same "t y mu/ n h ! color or patt]n ( ! tie at w> ) t ( ! wai/coat or tr\s]s4 ,nev] we> ^? flam+ ties1 or %ades t rem9d y ( ! color$ pap] sold 9 %ops4 ,b a g5tleman ne$ n be caution$ 9 ?is1 = he has or w acquire ta/e4 ,besides black or :ite x is p]missible to we> su* %ades ( m>oon1 gre51 blue1 violet1 z are ( a ri* b quiet /yle4 ,^! are only worn ) morn+ we>4 ,= ,morn+ ,we>4--,cravats1 f\r-9-h&s1 & puff sc>fs4 ,all self-ty+4 ,^! may be black1 :ite1 or any ( ! be=e-m5tion$ %ades4 ,9 silks & black sat94 ,gold p9s are worn 9 ! sc>fs4 ,x is ! acme ( ugl9ess to we> p9s 9 a f\r-9-h&1 besides be+ vulg>4 ,! f\r-9-h& may be ti$ 9 ! regulation /yle or 9 ! =m ( a b[4 ,nev] we> a made-up b[1 sc>f1 or f\r-9-h&4 ,!y look *eap1 & !y are vulg>ly common4 ,!n !re is ! b[ or cravat1 ti$ 9 ! regul> b[-knot4 ,black is ! ri*e/ & mo/ elegant color = morn+ we>4 ,! same /yles are worn 9 summ] z 9 w9t]4 ,9 summ] mu* ( ! bosom is all[$ to %[2 :ile 9 w9t] x seldom or nev] %[s1 except+ ev5+ dress4 ,:]ev] & :5ev] morn+ we> is us$1 any ( ^! ties may be worn4 ,= rid+1 driv+1 travel+1 ya*t+1 & l\ng+1 ! ties = morn+ we> may be worn4 ,v elegant1 l>ge cravats--ti$ 9 a b[-knot1 or z a f\r-9-h&--are made f ,de ,jo9villes2 ei!r 9 black sat9s or black silks1 or d>k %ades ( silk4 ,! ,de ,jo9ville is fold$ by y\rself or y\r furni%]4 ,x may be sew$ or n4 ,?is ,de ,jo9ville cravat is = morn+ we> only4 ,always h y\r ties1 cravats1 & sc>fs made to ord]4 ,?is is ! only way to keep !m uncommon4 ,aft]noon ,dress4--,"h is ! *ance = ! greate/ am\nt ( display4 ,diamond p9s1 & l>ge1 :ite1 puff sc>fs ti$ & p9n$ 9 %ape by y\rself1 are worn ) ! cutaway body-coat or ! frock body-coat4 ,9 w9t] ! l>ge puff sc>f only is worn ) aft]noon dress4 ,9 summ]1 f\r-9-h&s--ei!r 9 b[ or regul> tie--z well z ! puff sc>fs are worn4 ,) a sa%--a b[ ti$ or a f\r-9-h& ti$1 its ends plac$ 9 ! op5+ ( ! bosom1 is worn4 ,a sc>f may be worn ) a sa% :5 ! body-coat is n worn op54 ,wai/coats %\ld be f\r buttons1 & body-coats cut l[ 9 coll>s 9 ord] to %[ ! beauties ( ! huge puff sc>f n[ worn4 ,silk is ! mat]ial = ! :ite sc>f4 ,sat9 is only all[able 9 black & d>k %ades = sc>fs4 ,exquisite silk or crpe puff sc>fs consi/+ ( :ite backgr\nd ) figures or fl[]s ( a violet1 blue1 purple1 m>oon1 etc41 z y\r ta/e directs1 are worn4 ,rememb]1 simplicity = morn+ we>--elegance = aft]noon dress4 ,= h\se we> ! black silk or sat9 f\r-9-h& is ! neate/ tie worn4 ,! ,ascot =m ( ty+ a sc>f is seldom us$ n[4 ,ev5+ ,dress4--,full ev5+ dress requires ! :ite lawn cravat--self-ty+4 ,long & wide is ! mo/ elegant4 ,once or twice ar\nd may be worn4 ,= we> ) ,tux$o or ,c[es body-coat1 or ! dress body-coat at in=mal affairs1 !at]1 club1 or home d9n]s1 ! black sat9 cravat--self-ty+--is ! prop] ?+4 ,x may be once or twice ar\nd z y l4 ,nev] we> ?is cravat ) a :ite wai/coat or :ite sa%4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,walk+ ,,/ick ,,& ,,umbrella ,! walk+ /ick is worn ) morn+ we>1 aft]noon dress1 b nev] ) ev5+ dress4 ,! /yles are ev] *ang+4 ,/icks are worn 9 summ] & w9t]4 ,9 select+ /icks d n take ! extremes 9 heavy or light4 ,nev] h any metal b silv]--x is ! mo/ elegant4 ,among ! be/ dress]s & beaus ( ?is city ! walk+ /ick is no long] c>ri$ or worn1 ei!r ) morn+ we> or aft]noon dress4 ,z w5t ! rapi] s goes ! walk+ /ick4 ,! ,umbrella4--,?is is worn only 9 d\btful or wet wea!r4 ,x is worn at any "t ( day4 ,silv] is ! only prop] metal4 ,! mat]ial %\ld be silk or "p silk4 ,nev] we> ! case 9 ! /reet4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,miscellanies ,w$d+s4--,at morn+ w$d+s1 ! bridegroom we>s =mal aft]noon dress & pe>l-gray gloves4 ,! o!rs we> morn+ dress4 ,aft]noon w$d+s1 all we> aft]noon dress4 ,ev5+ w$d+s1 all we> ev5+ dress4 ,fun]als4--,if 9 ! morn+1 morn+ we>4 ,aft]noon1 aft]noon dress4 ,ev5+1 ev5+ dress4 ,( c\rse1 all ! attire is black 9 ?is case2 ! only reason = black be+ ! dem& ( sup]/iti\s cu/om4 ,*ri/5+s4--,accord+ to ! "t ( day x takes place4 ,if morn+1 morn+ we>4 ,aft]noon1 aft]noon dress4 ,ev5+1 ev5+ dress4 ,at ,home or ,*ur*4--,! dress is ! same :5 w$d+s1 etc41 take place at home z at *ur*4 ,calls ,new ,ye>'s4--,x is n prop] n[ to make calls on ,new ,ye>'s day4 ,t is ! only "t t ev5+ dress 0 ev] worn be=e #f ,p4 ,m4 ,x 0 worn ne>ly all day !n4 ,= ,m\rn+4--,ev]y?+ worn t %[s1 except+ ! l951 %\ld be black1 = all times ( day4 ,*ur* ,we>4--,on ,sunday1 aft]noon dress is worn at morn+1 aft]noon1 or ev5+ s]vice4 ,on ! o!r days ( ! week1 morn+ we>1 or aft]noon dress1 or ev5+ dress1 accord+ to "t ( s]vice1 may be worn4 ,susp5d]s4--,^! may be ( silk1 or any o!r suitable mat]ial4 ,silk %\ld always be worn ) ev5+ dress4 ,:ite is ! neate/ color t c be worn4 ,susp5d]s are worn ) e dress1 summ] or w9t]1 ) or )\t a sa%4 ,ea* pair ( tr\s]s %\ld h its individual susp5d]s4 ,great c>e mu/ be us$ 9 adju/+ ! susp5d]s2 if n1 ! tr\s]s w set awkw>dly4 ,upp]s1 or ,ov]gait]s4--,?is article is becom+ some:at obsolete "h4 ,!y are worn 9 ! /reet only4 ,!y may be worn ov] any %oe or tie4 ,= travel+ or walk+ only4 ,on ent]+ ! h\se !y %\ld be remov$4 ,if worn1 !y %\ld always be made ! same z ! tr\s]s1 9 mat]ial & patt]n4 ,!y spoil ! set ( ! tr\s]s 9 ! legs4 ,!y are also clumsy4 ,!y are "s protection to ! tr\s]s 9 muddy wea!r4 ,!y may be worn summ] or w9t]4 ,upp]s may be worn ) morn+ we>1 aft]noon dress1 or ev5+ dress4 ,black clo? upp]s may be worn dur+ ! daytime z well z 9 ! ev5+4 ,attire ,made to ,ord]4--,h ev]y?+ y we> made to ord]1 :5 possible4 ,blondes & ,brunettes4--,blondes %\ld pref] d>k mat]ials4 ,brunettes1 light mat]ials4 ,jewelry4--,! jewelry = a g5tleman3 ,gold hunt+-case wat*es4 ,gold fob-*a9s & silk fobs4 ,a wat* may be worn ) any dress4 ,silk fob = morn+ we>4 ,gold = aft]noon & ev5+4 ,z _m r+s z he c>es to possess4 ,r+s are n worn ) ev5+ dress2 only 9 ! aft]noon4 ,9 fact1 x is n fa%ionably necess>y to we> r+s4 ,! buttons us$ 9 ! %irt bosoms are ( gold set ) preci\s /ones4 ,diamonds are ! mo/ elegant4 ,pla9 gold buttons are worn ) morn+ we>4 ,/on9e /uds or buttons1 9 fact all /uds1 are out ( /yle4 ,= ! sleeve or cuff3 gold buttons are us$ = all we>4 ,any numb] ( gold p9s = ! sc>fs4 ,^! may be pla9 gold or set ) preci\s /ones2 diamonds1 ( c\rse1 be+ pref]able4 ,simple elegance is n[ ! rule 9 jewelry4 ,dress+ ,case4--,always h on h& a l>ge valise or dress+ case = travel+4 ,x is requisite if y g out ( t[n = a night only1 x be+ necess>y to c>ry ev5+ dress4 ,dress+ ,case ,articles4--,articles = a dress+ case are hair-bru%es1 combs1 :isk-brooms1 clo?-bru%es1 h&-mirrors1 manicure set1 soaps1 wa%es & toilet lotions1 wa%-clo?s1 bru%es & picks = ! tee? & gums1 & %av+ outfit4 ,rubb]s4--,rubb]s or golo%es are worn1 if desir$2 b only :ile walk+ 9 ! /reet4 ,x is mu* bett] to h a heavy pair ( lac$-%oes = mud or sn[4 ,( c\rse1 :5 !re is ice on ! walks1 x is necess>y to we> rubb]s1 if y d any walk+4 ,rubb]s1 :5 walk+1 may be worn ov] ev5+ dress %oes4 ,dress ,%ields4--,^! are ( silk or sat94 ,:ite or black4 ,x is = ev5+ dress only4 ,only = w9t] wea!r4 ,x is plac$ ov] ! l95 bosom :ile en r\te4 ,engli% ,ra9 ,attire4--,an ,engli% attire = ra9y wea!r consi/s ( an oil$ topp]--top-hat oil$ ) vasel9e--& a long-skirt$ greatcoat1 ) a cape4 ,mat]ial & patt]n select$4 ,?is is worn only dur+ ! day4 ,umbrella & rubb]s are unnecess>y4 ,engli% ,hunt ,attire4--,a heavy top-hat ( black silk plu% is worn4 ,gloves1 crop1 & spurs4 ,a s+le-brea/$1 frock body-coat1 gre5 or p9k1 k]sey4 ,:ite molesk91 loose bree*es4 ,top rid+-boots4 ,hunt ,ball4--,! only *ange is 9 ! body-coat4 ,?is is a p9k broadclo? ev5+ dress body-coat4 ,a :ite lawn cravat & :ite silk wai/coat are worn ) x4 ,clo? ,b&s = ,top-hats4--,wide black clo? b&s are n[ worn on ! silk top-hat1 aft]noon or ev5+4 ,= rid+ or driv+4 ,wigs4--,! we>+ ( wigs is a cu/om ( ! pa/4 ,:e!r x is to be reviv$ or n ! future alone w %[4 ,x is p]fectly prop] = a bald man to we> a wig4 ,!re is no reason 9 8 hid+ ! fact ei!r4 ,a "y man may we> a wig if he is prematurely bald4 ,he c]ta9ly w make 8 appe>ance m pres5table to o!rs by s do+4 ,op]a ,glass4--,a g5tleman may c>ry "o to ! !at] or op]a--ev5+ or aft]noon4 ,! small op]a glass is mo/ conv5i5t4 ,decorations4--,^! are worn only on =mal occasions4 ,!n !y %\ld appe> on ev5+ dress1 or on aft]noon dress ) a frock body-coat4 ,worn on ! left brea/4 ,fans4--,^! may be c>ri$ at any ev5+ reception by a g5tleman1 if he desires to s d1 :5 !re is to be danc+4 ,fold+ fans1 ) a heavy black or :ite silk cord & tassel1 are recomm5d$4 ,z a rule1 fans are c>ri$ only = summ] dances4 ,a g5tleman w f9d x conv5i5t & com=table to h 8 own fan4 ,knee-buckles & ,%oe-buckles4--,^! are ( /]l+ silv]4 ,buckles may be worn :5 knee-bree*es are worn4 ,tr\s]s ,crease4--,?is may be worn 9 tr\s]s or n z ta/e dictates4 ,x c]ta9ly improves ! set ( ! tr\s]s1 & keeps ! knees /raight4 ,pockets4--,^! appe> only 9 ! wai/coat & body-coat4 ,! only ?+s c>ri$--morn+ we>1 aft]noon dress1 & ev5+ dress--are ! l95 k]*ief--includ+ ! silk :5 9 ev5+ dress--money1 wat*1 & fob *a9 9 silk or gold1 c>ds1 p5cil1 silv] or gold4 ,! ,monocle4--,?is is worn any "t ( day4 ,n>r[ black silk ribbon or cord is worn on x = morn+ & aft]noon4 ,= ev5+ a wide black silk ribbon is us$4 ,we>+ a monocle is an ,engli% cu/om4 ,! monocle is seldom worn 9 ?is city4 ,:5 worn x is plac$ 9 ! "r eye4 ,,clos+ ,,rem>ks ,a g5tleman 9 ord]+ 8 app>el1 :e!r = morn+ we>1 aft]noon dress1 or ev5+ dress1 w foll[ 8 own ta/e & desire z reg>ds ! /yle ( seams1 ! mat]ial & /yle ( l9+s1 ! size1 numb]1 & k9d ( buttons to be us$1 ! numb] ( pockets1 ! l5g? ( body-coats1 ov]coats1 l5g? & wid? ( tr\s]s1 ! /yle ( 8 hat1 gloves1 & %oes1 ! l5g? ( sleeves & wid? ( coll>s1 use ( braids & b9d+s1 use ( coll> fac+s1--9 fact1 e po9t connect$ ) ! mak+ ( g>m5ts1 bo? out] & "u clo?+1 hats1 %oes1 gloves1 & ties1 all ^! he mu/ decide & ord] ! mak] to foll[ out4 ,x is only ?r\gh ?is c>e & att5tion to details t he c %[ 8 ta/e & ability to dress4 ,mo/ important ( all--especially 9 clo?+--is ! selection ( mat]ial4 ,?is completes ! dress necess>y = a g5tleman ( fa%ion1 9 society or out4 ,he is n ask$ to foll[ implicitly ! rules z laid d[n "h1 b r foll[ 8 own ta/e & ideas 9 ! mak+ & we>+ ( g>m5ts4 ,?is is only meant z a guide4 ,x is believ$ to be correct 9 all its details1 & c be foll[$ safely z su*4 ,f9is coronat opus4 ,illu/ration ,,"p ,,ii4 ,,ess5tial ,,cu/oms ,,= ,,g5tlem5 ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,introduction #ha ,,actions ,,indoors #he 7#a7 ,,leav+ ,,! ,,room--7#b7 ,,walk ,,indoors--7#c7 ,,meet+ ,,on ,,/airs--7#d7 ,,hat ,,indoors--7#e7 ,,body-,,coat ,,indoors--7#f7 ,,ov]coat ,,indoors--7#g7 ,,untidy ,,appe>ance--7#h7 ,,c>ds--7#i7 ,,call+--7#aj7 ,,9 ,,company--7#aa7 ,,receptions ,,& ,,teas--7#ab7 ,,lun*eons--7#ac7 ,,p>ties--7#ad7 ,,d9n]s--7#ae7 ,,danc+--7#af7 ,,balls1 ,,danc+ ,,classes1 ,,!at] ,,p>ties ,,& ,,receptions--7#ag7 ,,b[l+--7#ah7 ,,musicales ,,& ,,mat9,e ,,p>ties--7#ai7 ,,amateur ,,!atricals ,,& ,,recitations--7#bj7 ,,breakfa/s--7#ba7 ,,vocal ,,& ,,in/rum5tal ,,music ,,actions ,,outdoors #aab 7#a7 ,,walk+--7#b7 ,,prom5ad+--7#c7 ,,jo9+ ,,lady--7#d7 ,,pay+ ,,out ,,money--7#e7 ,,tak+ ,,seat ,,9 ,,public ,,conveyance--7#f7 ,,driv+--7#g7 ,,rid+--7#h7 ,,sail+ ,,p]sonal ,,appe>ance #abf 7#a7 ,,h&s--7#b7 ,,face--7#c7 ,,tee?--7#d7 ,,hair--7#e7 ,,facial ,,expressions--7#f7 ,,position ,,habits #aca 7#a7 ,,smok+--7#b7 ,,dr9k+--7#c7 ,,*ew+--7#d7 ,,/ret*+ ,,& ,,yawn+ ,,conv]sation #acd 7#a7 ,,g5]al--7#b7 ,,gramm>--7#c7 ,,laugh+--7#d7 ,,complim5ts ,,& ,,flatt]y--7#e7 ,,small ,,talk ,,correspond5ce ,,& ,,invitations #ach ,,p]sonal ,,actions #adf 7#a7 ,,escorts--7#b7 ,,extravagance--7#c7 ,,kiss+--7#d7 ,,famili>ity--7#e7 ,,*ap]ons--7#f7 ,,h&%ak+--7#g7 ,,kiss+ ,,h&--7#h7 ,,g5tleman ,,engag$--7#i7 ,,introductions ,,propos+ #aei ,,pres5ts #afe 7#a7 ,,fl[]s--7#b7 ,,jewelry--7#c7 ,,bon-,,bons--7#d7 ,,photographs ,,g5]al ,,polit5ess #agj 7#a7 ,,insults--7#b7 ,,emb>rassm5ts--7#c7 ,,temp] ,,visit+ #agf 7#a7 ,,acceptances ,,& ,,regrets--7#b7 ,,duties ,,( ,,visitor ,,introduction ,be=e ent]+ ^u my subject1 ,i w\ld fir/ /ate t ?is "w is unlike =m] books on mann]s & etiquette1 = x seeks n z 9 ^? cases to e/abli% rules1 enjo9+ ! read] to be controll$ !reby1 nor does x def9e cu/oms & =ce !m ^u 8 k4 ,x m]ely t\*es ^u usages ( suffici5tly long /&+ to con/itute cu/oms ( society1 reviews !m be=e 8 m9d1 & classes !m z faults if n prop]ly practis$1 & gives ! rem$ies ( ^? faults4 ,also x def9es cu/oms :i* are practis$ too exactly to appe> natural1 & %[s :]e9 !y c be modifi$4 ,9 ?is "w !re are no monoton\s rules imp]atively laid d[n & ! subjects are n tiresomely /ra9$4 ,! mo/ important cu/oms only are describ$1 ) _! modify+ rules2 & ?\gh ! "w may say :at %\ld be done or omitt$1 yet x leaves x to ! option ( ! read] :e!r or n he w p]fect 8 social tra9+ by a recognition & due ex]cise !re(4 ,to classify ! subjects "u two g5]al heads1 ,i w\ld fir/ speak ( 8,appe>ance40 ,!re is no necessity = a g5tleman to give opportunities = o!rs to criticize 8 appe>ance4 ,!re is no reason :y a g5tleman %\ld n at any & all times pres5t a complete & neat attire4 ,dress1 extravagant or pla91 c always h su* an effect1 if c>e & ta/e are ex]cis$4 ,if he is 9 d\bt z to 8 own ability to dress ta/efully1 !n he %\ld submit himself to tuition1 or1 if he is too pr\d to disclose 8 ignorance 9 ! matt]1 he %\ld take c>eful notice ( ! appe>ance & good ta/e display$ by o!rs1 & endeavor to ga9 k !refrom4 ,9 ord] to c>ry out my advice1 x is only necess>y t a g5tleman %\ld ei!r possess or acquire good ta/e1 & ref] entirely to /yles e/abli%$ by cu/om1 z elucidat$ 9 ,"p #a4 ( ?is book4 ,! second head ( cu/oms is 8,mann]40 ,= a g5tleman %\ld n pres5t a p]fect appe>ance z to dress1 & at ! same "t accompany 8 good ta/e ) bad or impolite mann]s4 ,a g5tleman %\ld h a ?or\gh k ( polite mann]s z e/abli%$ by cu/om1 su* z are def9$ 9 ?is "w4 ,i m5tion only ! mo/ important ones1 x be+ immat]ial to g into ! m9or bran*es ( etiquette & mann]s1 z !y naturally foll[ 9 consequ5ce ( a due ex]cise ( ! m important ones4 ,x is a v simple matt] to cultivate easy & graceful mann]s1 & j z easy to use ^? mann]s 9 a polite & g5tlemanly way1 no matt] h[ or "u :at circum/ances "o may be plac$ 9 society4 ,& n[ ,i ?9k my read] is prep>$ = a p]usal ( :at ,i w\ld t]m n a classification ( rules1 b a k9d ( outl9e hi/ory ( cu/oms z !y %\ld be recogniz$4 ,illu/ration ,,actions ,,indoors ,,section #a4 ,a g5tleman %\ld nev] leave 8 room )\t a complete attire1 z x is ess5tial t he pres5t ! same appe>ance be=e a s]vant z a lady4 ,! same rule %\ld apply :5 he risks enc\nt]+ unkn[n g5tlem51 or acqua9tances1 z x %\ld be 8 desire to receive respect at ! h&s ( bo? sexes4 #b4 ,if pass+ up or d[n /airs or ?r\gh halls1 a g5tleman %\ld take c>e n to tread heavily2 especially is ?is urg$ 9 hotels1 :5 x is f\nd necess>y to pass ?r\gh hallways late at night4 #c4 ,:5 ab\t to asc5d or desc5d a n>r[ /airway1 if a lady is discov]$ !reon1 /ep aside & all[ h] to pass2 y\r act ?us p]mitt+ h] free way )\t ! discom=t ( turn+1 z w\ld foll[ if bo? met !reon4 ,if ) a lady1 9 asc5d+ or desc5d+ a n>r[ /airway1 always prec$e h]1 putt+ a di/ance ( at lea/ f\r /eps betwe54 ,if on a broad /airway1 all[ h] to occupy a place next ! balu/rade1 plac+ y\rself at h] o!r side4 #d4 ,n "u any consid]ation %\ld a hat be worn 9 a h\se or *ur*2 nev] 9 a !at] till ! play is ov]1 :5 x is all[able1 z e/abli%$ by cu/om1 on acc\nt ( ! draft foll[+ ! op5+ ( ! exits1 & n 9 a hotel except 9 ! (fice or smok+-rooms !re(4 ,! we>+ ( a hat is also p]missible :5 l+]+ or deta9$ 9 ! draft ( any op5 exit to ! /reet4 #e4 ,! body-coat %\ld nev] be remov$ 9 ! pres5ce ( ladies1 no matt] h[ ready !y may be to approve ( ! act1 unless x is _! express & unanim\s desire1 9 :i* case ! bett] policy1 9 *oos+ betwe5 ! alt]native ( positive rud5ess & a fall ( dignity1 is to take ! c\rse reque/$4 #f4 ,an ov]coat %\ld nev] be worn 9 a private h\se unless ! temp]ature is su* z makes ! act compulsory 9 ord] to pres]ve ! heal?1 & !n only on receiv+ approval f ! majority ( ^? ladies 7only7 :o may be pres5t4 ,x is immat]ial if x be worn 9 a hotel1 exceptions be+ made to ! p>lors1 ball-room1 d9+-rooms or ap>tm5ts4 ,! ov]coat %\ld be remov$ imm$iately on ent]+ a !at] or music hall if ! int5tion is to remove x at all1 z x is ! height ( rud5ess to rise 9 ! seat to remove x if ! act cause discom=t to1 or obscures ! view (1 p>ties occupy+ re> or adjo9+ seats4 #g4 7a7 ,nev] add to y\r com=t by mak+ y\r appe>ance displeas+ to o!rs4 ,& "u ?is head ,i w\ld /ate t ! pockets ( ei!r coat1 ve/1 or tr\s]s %\ld nev] be bulg$ out ) articles s z 9 any way to spoil ! effect ( neatness & cut ( ! clo?+4 7b7 ,! clo!s %\ld n be all[$ to wr9kle2 if c>efully worn1 or :5 n 9 use hung smoo?ly on /ret*]s1 wr9kles c be avoid$4 7c7 ,! h&s %\ld nev] be c>ri$ awkw>dly1 & especially mu/ c>e be tak5 to keep !m out ( ! pockets2 su* habits m> ! appe>ance ( ! g5tleman4 #h4 ,c>ds4--7a7 ,if call+ ^u "o "y lady1 only "o c>d %\ld be deliv]$ at ! door2 if on two ladies1 two c>ds are requir$4 ,x is unnecess>y t m ?an two %\ld be s5t up1 ev5 if ! call is made on ! :ole family4 ,?is rule applies1 also1 9 deliv]+ c>ds at receptions1 teas1 aft]noon musicales1 & ! l4 ,always s5d c>ds on occasions :5 y _c att5d 9 p]son4 ,:5 call+ ^u ladies visit+ a c>d %\ld also be s5t to _! ho/ess4 7b7 ,! c>d %\ld always h ! g5tleman's address on ! "r h& l[] corn]2 or1 if he has no p]man5t place ( resid5ce1 !n ! "n ( 8 club1 or ( "s p]son 9 ^: c>e communications c be =w>d$ to him4 ,if 8 "n has too _m initials to p]mit ( us+ ! ,*ri/ian "n1 !n 8,mr40 %\ld be us$1 & only ! initials plac$ be=e ! surname2 b o!rwise1 ! use ( 8,mr40 is accord+ to ta/e1 :e!r x be plac$ be=e ! ,*ri/ian "n or omitt$1 ?\gh ! latt] is advis$4 #i4 ,call+ %\ld be conf9$ entirely to ! aft]noon & ev5+2 a few exceptions c be made 9 ! case ( v de> fri5ds1 :5 a call 9 ! morn+ w\ld n be out ( ! way4 ,su* %\ld be made betwe5 ! h\rs ( elev5 & "o4 ,aft]noon calls %\ld be made f ?ree till five1 exceptions be+ made on occasions :]e ! lady is 9 ! habit ( hav+ five o'clock tea1 :5 x is all[able = ! g5tleman to /ay till 8 cup or two cups are f9i%$2 on no acc\nt is he to p>take ( m ?an two4 ,ord9>y ev5+ calls ext5d f eight to t5 & are n to be made lat] ?an eight-?irty4 ,= no reason :atev] %\ld a g5tleman /ay lat] ?an t51 unless he is call+ ^u 8 fiance2 ! ev5+ receptions ext5d f eight to elev51 & ! call mu/ be made be=e t54 ,:5 press$ to rema9 to a meal1 unless at lea/ five or six calls h previ\sly be5 made1 he %\ld decl9e ! invitation1 exceptions be+ p]mitt$ :5 ! "y lady's p>5ts or gu>dians are on intimate t]ms ) 8 own1 9 :i* case ! second call w ju/ify him 9 accept+4 ,intimacy betwe5 h] bro!rs or si/]s & y\r own w n suffice4 ,! c>d is deliv]$ at ! door1 & :ile wait+ = ! lady1 ent] ! p>lor4 ,x is n necess>y to remove ! ov]coat until ! butl] ann\nces :e!r or n %e is at home & c see y2 :]eupon1 if %e ackn[l$ges y\r c>d1 ! ov]coat1 hat1 cane & ov]%oes are to be left 9 ! hall2 on no acc\nt leave !m ab\t ! p>lor4 ,x is n necess>y to remove ! gloves4 ,?is rule applies 9 all cases :]e ord9>y calls are 9 "q2 if m]ely on a mission to occupy b a few mom5ts1 ! ov]coat may be kept on1 & ! cane c>ri$ 9 ! h&1 b ! hat mu/ always be left ^u ! rack4 ,always rise & advance to meet a lady at ! door2 d n subject h] to ! inconv5i5ce ( discov]+ y & com+ to y h]self4 ,if ! lady seats h]self ^u a s(a1 d n place y\rself beside h] )\t fir/ obta9+ h] cons5t4 ,if y take ! seat1 be c>eful ( y\r position1 & d n appe> too easy & at home1 &1 above all1 d n cross ! legs4 ,also1 keep ! h&s z quiet z possible2 don't h&le any objects or toy ) ornam5ts1 or twi/ y\r wat*-*a91 = x %[s y are ei!r n]v\s or fidgety1 & y !reby produce ! n]v\s effect ^u y\r companion4 ,! conv]sation %\ld be ( a s5sible topic2 or1 if amus+1 x %\ld be at lea/ int]e/+3 ! be/ topics to conv]se ^u be+ !at]s1 plays1 society1 picture exhibitions1 art1 build+s1 lit]ature1 & especially light gossip4 ,travels may also be discuss$1 b fir/ asc]ta9 ( ! lady :e!r %e has travel$2 if n1 & %e does n ask y to recite y\r travels1 & x is y\r desire to d s1 !n describe !m z briefly z possible4 ,if y f9d a "y lady beg9s to appe> re/less1 say a few words m & take y\r dep>ture2 !re is no kn[+ b t %e has "s o!r engagem5t4 ,nev] at any "t speak ( an acqua9tance 9 a disagreeable mann]4 ,d n ev5 say any?+ ungu>d$ly ab\t a ?ird p]son1 = fe> t ! trait or action y describe may disclose to y\r companion ( :om y are speak+4 ,^! la/ two cautions may seem ( m9or importance1 b !y are1 on ! contr>y1 v important1 z ?\s&s ( s]i\s qu>rels result f neglect+ !m4 #aj4 ,:5 9 company1 d n by ^w or action make y\rself obnoxi\s to ^? pres5t4 ,y\r words %\ld be well *os5 & spok5 at ! prop] "t1 & 9 good gramm>2 omit slang4 ,if ( a jok+ frame ( m9d1 deliv] y\r joke 9 a quiet way1 & d n c>ry y\r ability too f>2 = too mu* ( a good ?+ is worse ?an none at all4 ,a few good jokes1 deliv]$ ) tell+ effect1 w d m = y\r reputation 9 t l9e ?an a ?\s& poor ones improp]ly deliv]$4 ,no man %\ld laugh at 8 own joke1 & :5 do+ s at o!rs' he %\ld take c>e n to be boi/]\s4 ,d n monopolize ! conv]sation2 x _c be done )\t int]rupt+ o!rs1 & to d t is ! height ( rud5ess4 ,:5 9 company1 & p]sons are talk+1 d n pick !m up on any /atem5t ( :i* y d n approve1 & po9t$ly contradict !m1 nor />t any argum5t :i* w\ld t5d to _! emb>rassm5t4 ,nev] flatt] or complim5t 9 company1 z x makes ! object ( y\r att5tion feel conspicu\s1 & ^? pres5t imag9e t !y are ( less importance 9 y\r e/imation4 ,d n ask a "y lady to att5d any ent]ta9m5t ) y1 or d n ext5d any invitation if ano!r lady be pres5t1 ) :om y are ev5 b slightly acqua9t$2 y\r p>tiality = "o %\ld nev] be disclos$ to ano!r4 ,unless y c d x gracefully1 d n execute a dance or attempt to imitate /age p]=m]s4 ,also take c>e n to upset or run into ornam5ts or /ub ! toe aga9/ !m1 & be sure ( y\r foot+1 t y d n trip on mats1 etc4 ,a great _m g5tlem5 imag9e x to be necess>y to back out ( a room on tak+ _! dep>ture2 n s1--m]ely say 8good-by0 7or 8good-morn+10 or words suit$ to ! "t ( day71 &1 turn+ to ! door1 walk out to ! hallway4 ,if ! ho/ess has an incl9ation or desire to foll[ y & cont9ue any unf9i%$ subject :i* may h be5 "u discussion1 x is n necess>y to retire 9 s awkw>d a mann]4 ,promptly ann\nce y\r int5tion & ent] ! hall2 :ile adju/+ ! ov]coat & gloves1 ! conv]sation c be cont9u$4 ,?is me?od c be ex]cis$ )\t ! fa9te/ appe>ance ( rud5ess4''' ,subjects to be c>efully /udi$ = company use may be f\nd "u ! head ( 8,conv]sation40 #aa4 ,if y are at a special invitation aft]noon tea or reception1 pay p>ticul> att5tion to ! ho/ess :5ev] %e is se5 unoccupi$1 & (f] y\r company 9 escort+ h] to p>take ( refre%m5ts4 ,always eat lightly ( ! vi&s y\rself4 ,if a cr[d$ reception1 half an h\r only %\ld be sp5t !reat4 ,a reception call %\ld be made )9 ?ree mon?s !reaft]2 half an h\r1 or possibly ?ree-qu>t]s1 is prop] = su* a call4 #ab4 ,a g5tleman %\ld nev] ent] 8 si/]'s lun*eon hall :5 ! repa/ is 9 progress2 su* intrusions prove fatal to topics ( dress g5]ally "u discussion1 or o!r matt] n int5d$ = 8 e>s4 ,a g5tleman c give a /ag lun*eon1 or a lun*eon = bo? ladies & g5tlem5 if a *ap]on presides4 ,"u ?is head in=mal lun*es may also be discuss$4 ,^! are su* z p]sons are apt to p>take ( )\t any special previ\s arrangem5t1 ei!r at re/aurants or private h\ses4 ,z a g5tleman is at lib]ty to d9e :]e he pleases1 ,i only speak ( ! subject 9 connection ) ladies4 ,a g5tleman %\ld nev] invite a lady to lun* at 8 own h\se1 no matt] h[ well acqua9t$ he may be ) h]1 n ev5 :5 engag$1 unless a *ap]on be pres5t at ! meal1 & n invite h] at all unless he has met h] v frequ5tly be=eh&4 ,a g5tleman c accept an invitation to lun* ) a lady "u ! same conditions z ^? ( an invitation to /ay to d9n] :5 call+ 7see ,sec4 #i47 ,:5 desir\s ( ask+ a lady to lun* at a re/aurant1 :e!r y take h] direct f ! h\se to x1 or :ile walk+1 makes no diff]5ce2 a *ap]on mu/ be pres5t at ! meal unless y be> an exi/+ or agre$ future relation%ip to h]1 or y\r fri5d%ip is und]/ood by y\r own & ! lady's fri5ds to be s de> z n to all[ ( suspicion or "q--:5 a *ap]on c be disp5s$ )4 ,)\t a *ap]on be extremely c>eful 9 y\r selection ( a re/aurant2 seek ^? ^: reputation is quiet & ref9$ & ( less publicity ?an ! re/ ( ! well-kn[n re/aurants4 ,always :5 ) a lady ent] ! re/aurant by ! door int5d$ = ladies' use2 nev] by ! public entrance4 #ac4 ,ev5+ p>ties %\ld be att5d$ be=e ! h\r ( elev51 9 full dress4 ,if ) a lady d n keep h] wait+1 b r let h] f9d y await+ h] at ! dress+-room door4 ,if alone or o!rwise take c>e to seek ! ho/ess on ent]+ ! p>lor2 ?is is a piece ( polit5ess sadly ov]look$ n[adays1 especially by individual g5tlem54 ,at a dance always take ! inside arm ( a lady :ile prom5ad+4 ,repeat$ly ask aft] h] ?ir/1 & nev] all[ h] to approa* ! refre%m5t table1 b br+ ! glass to h] on y\r k]*ief if !re are no doilys4 ,always pay p>ticul> att5tion to ! ho/ess1 & ask h] repeat$ly to dance4 ,nev]1 if idle & y see h] )\t a p>tn]1 all[ h] to rema9 ?us alone2 "u su* circum/ances1 likes & dislikes %\ld be set aside1 or y %\ld n h att5d$ ! dance4 ,always (f] y\r arm to y\r p>tn] imm$iately on ceas+ to dance4 ,make x a rule nev] to leave a dance )\t bidd+ ! ho/ or ho/ess good-night1 & ?ank+ !m = ! pleasures ( ! ev5+4 ,?is is ano!r poor policy ( a great _m m51 to leave quietly )\t ! k ( ! ho/ or ho/ess4 ,p>ty calls %\ld be made )9 a ye> at ! f>!/ aft] ! p>ty1 & %\ld occupy ! same l5g? ( "t z an ord9>y call4 #ad4 ,d9n]s %\ld be att5d$ promptly on "t4 ,always all[ ! ladies to be seat$ fir/4 ,d n attempt to pass any?+ if ! s]vants are pres5t1 nor ev5 if !y are n pres5t unless expressly reque/$ to d s4 ,d n attempt to speak :5 ! m\? conta9s food4 ,:5 spok5 to1 a motion ( ! head w be suffici5t to convey ! reply int5d$1 & at ! same "t to acqua9t y\r que/ion] ) ! fact t he has spok5 inopportunely4 ,9 ord] to con=m to ! v>i\s cu/oms x is advisable to ab/a9 z long z is prud5t f fold+ ! napk9 till y view ! action !re9 ( ! ho/ or ho/ess4 ,b ?is is only necess>y at m or less in=mal d9n]s4 ,! prevail+ cu/om ( =mal d9n]s is nev] to fold ! napk94 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 n to make noises ) ! m\?1 :5 eat+1 & n to smack ! lips4 ,if a total ab/a9] f dr9k1 y mu/ n turn y\r glasses upside-d[n1 nor all[ !m fill$4 ,m]ely /op ! s]vant :5 y\r glass is half fill$1 ?us prev5t+ comm5t & complete wa/e at "o & ! same "t4 ,y mu/ n call ! s]vants1 b endeavor to beckon !m to y ) ! head & eyes1 n ) ! f+]4 ,nev] speak l\d] ?an w all[ ( a compreh5sion ( :at y are say+4 ,d n toy ) articles on ! table1 & :5 ! h&s are n employ$ 9 eat+ !y mu/ be kept 9 ! lap4 ,don't put ! elb[s on ! table4 ,read+ is n to be indulg$ 9 at ! table1 unless x is a lett] or special communication1 :5 y mu/ beg p>don = y\r rud5ess4 ,d n leave ! table be=e ! re/ h f9i%$ except 9 case ( necessity1 & !n by p]mission only1 always excus+ y\rself4 ,:5 rema9+ till ! f9i%1 nev] rise till ! ho/ or ho/ess or bo? h signifi$ t ! meal is at an end1 by ris+ fir/4 #ae4 ,!re is "o cu/om 9 ?is "w :i* above all o!rs is ess5tial to e man :o has any desire to play ! rle ( a ?or\gh social success1 & t requirem5t is danc+4 ,!re is n "o ?+ :i* a society g5tleman p]=ms1 :i* gives s mu* enjoym5t n only to himself1 b to o!rs4 ,no?+ is m closely criticiz$1 no?+ m prom95t :5 9 execution2 no?+ m b5efit+ z an ex]cise1 & no?+ m satisfactory to ! p]=m]1 ?an danc+4 ,by t ^w is meant any p]=mance :i* has ! "n ( dance1 & :i* has ! requisites ( 8grace10 8ease10 & 8p]fect p]=mance40 ,to be a p]fect danc] ! above expressions 9 ref]5ce to y\r danc+ %\ld be won f y\r admir]s4 ,d n ?9k1 because y h an idea ( h[ to dance1 t y really d s p]fectly4 ,! fir/ requirem5t to good danc+ is grace4 ,if y are graceful y _c appe> awkw>d to on-look]s1 = y\r /ep is firm1 body quiet1 & arms /ill4 ,! arm is nev] pump$1 & ! feet are b>ely lift$ (f ! floor4 ,to h ease1 a danc] %\ld appe> confid5t ( 8 ability1 & %[ t ability by a correct & actual p]=mance ( ! dance 9 ! above-expla9$ graceful way4 ,to h a p]fect p]=mance ( a dance1 bo? ( ! =m] requirem5ts are to be ex]cis$1 ) ^! additional requisites1 viz43 use a long decid$ glide1 nev] jump or hop1 always rev]se equally z mu* z y turn ! orig9al way1 keep to ! side ( ! room1 direction to ! "r f ! entrance4 ,d n collide ) o!r c\ples1 or at lea/ protect y\r p>tn] f sudd5 collisions1 & on no acc\nt all[ h] to slip4 ,! "r h& %\ld be at ! lady's back1 betwe5 ! l[] ends ( ! %\ld]-blades1 & %\ld always c>ry a silk h&k]*ief4 ,nev] 9 danc+ hold a lady close to y1 = x is ! mo/ disagreeable position = h]1 & looks decid$ly improp]4 ,hold y\r p>tn] at all times at arms' l5g?2 ?is gives y fre$om ( spee*1 space to use ! feet1 & all[s y to glide m easily4 ,9 a waltz1 always take a long1 sweep+ glide1 ) z little rise z possible4 ,any /ep betwe5 a ,bo/on dip & ! ,philadelphia glide1 if us$ z a sort ( an imp]ceptible1 sweep+ dip1 w appe> to great advantage on ! floor4 ,a ,polka %\ld ei!r be glid$ or walk$ ?r\gh2 nev] skip1 & d n take too long a /ep1 & d away entirely ) all fancy v>iations ( ! dance4 ,keep /rictly to ! orig9al ,polka =m & y w avoid all awkw>d appe>ances4 ,! same rule applies to ! ,yorke1 ,galop1 etc4 ,! ,s*ottis*e is a beautiful dance1 if p]=m$ gracefully z 9 ! waltz1 only mu* m c>e %\ld be ex]cis$ 9 ! =w>d /eps4 ,d n use t once popul>1 b awkw>d mann] ( skipp+ 9 ?is dance1 b ! m mod]n ?ree runn+ /eps4 ,^? famili> ) all ^! popul> dances w compreh5d ! importance ( my criticisms4 ,! ,caprice is ! comb9ation dance ( waltz & polka1 & necessitates m c>e & att5tion ?an any o!r4 ,no?+ b ! glide /ep %\ld be us$ 9 ?is dance4 #af4 ,balls1 ,danc+ ,classes1 ,!at] ,p>ties1 ,receptions4--,^! may all be giv5 by g5tlem51 if !y h m>ri$ ladies z patronesses4 ,!at] p>ties c be foll[$ by d9n]s at ! popul> re/aurants1 ! *ap]on att5d+4 ,if ! p>ty occupies m ?an "o box1 an equal numb] ( *ap]ons %\ld accompany x4 #ag4 ,b[l+--,c>d-play+4--,9 b[l+1 a g5tleman %\ld keep ! score1 notify ! ladies ( _! turns z !y come r\nd1 h& !m ! balls--n too l>ge1 b heavy en\gh to be ?r[n ) ease & effect4 ,see t !y enjoy ! game ?or\ghly1 or else cease ! sport4 ,if y notice fatigue 9 a lady's mann]1 ask h] to desi/4 ,_m spra9s1 dislocations1 & twi/s are ! result ( attempt+ to ?r[ balls ) tir$ wri/s4 ,a g5tleman c organize a b[l+ club "u ! sup]vision ( a *ap]on att5d+ ea* meet+4 ,at c>ds1 he pays /rict att5tion to ^? play+2 he endeavors to make ! games pleasant4 ,he %\ld nev] look ov] ano!r's h& ( c>ds2 &1 above all1 %\ld nev] *eat4 ,he %\ld nev] gamble & bet on c>ds1 nor all[ games ( t k9d 9 8 h\se4 #ah4 ,musicales--,mat9e ,p>ties4--,g5tlem5 att5d ^! ei!r z escorts or alone4 ,!y are at lib]ty to give !m :5ev] !y desire to d s4 ,!y mu/ always h a patroness or *ap]on pres5t4 #ai4 7#a7 ,:5 ask$ to p>ticipate 9 amateur !atricals1 d n unhesitat+ly accept ! invitation1 b fir/ consid] y\r ability1 n only to act ! "p t5d]$ y1 b t :i* is ( m importance1 viz41 to be able to act gracefully1 & c>ry x out 9 all its p]fection2 = x is only ( too frequ5t occurr5ce t "y m5 readily accept1 confid5t ( be+ able to memorize _! "p1 disreg>d+ ! fact t memoriz+ is n act+4 ,aft] hav+ accept$ an invitation to act1 be+ ( fair ability s to d1 be c>eful to pay /rict att5tion to y\r "p1 & be punctual at all ! rehe>sals4 ,g5tlem5 c organize amateur !atrical clubs among !mselves at discretion1 b on no occasion %\ld ladies be includ$ )\t a *ap]on at h&4 7#b7 ,nev] (f] to recite1 & if ask$ to d s1 decl9e1 unless y are sure ( :at y are ab\t to recite4 ,d n make y\r recitations too l5g?y1 & n too dramatic4 ,be sure t y\r ge/ures are fitt$ = ! words us$2 make !m few1 b tell+4 ,d n hurry ?r\gh a piece2 & above all1 d n %\t2 suit ! voice to ! size ( ! room or hall 9 :i* y are recit+4 ,if encor$1 ackn[l$ge su* by ano!r piece1 or repetition ( ! fir/2 b to fur!r applause1 m]ely b[4 #bj4 ,breakfa/s c be giv5 at any "t )9 ! h\rs ( eight & twelve ,a4 ,m41 to g5tlem51 or ladies & g5tlem51 a *ap]on be+ pres5t = ! latt]4 ,invitations = ^!1 z = any o!r ev5t1 %\ld be answ]$ )9 ! cu/om>y "t--two weeks be=e ! occurr5ce2 or1 if ! invitation is lat] ?an two weeks be=e date ( breakfa/1 an imm$iate reply is necess>y4 #ba4 ,:5 9 company nev] (f] to s+ unless y are p]fectly confid5t ( y\r ability to satisfy ! expectations ( ^? pres5t4 ,if ask$ to s+1 unless ( ability to d s1 be n too ready to accept ! invitation1 b wait till x is t5d]$ y aga91 s t1 9 case ( failure1 y be n look$ s unfavorably ^u z if y _h accept$ readily2 ! same rule applies to play+ ^u in/rum5ts4 ,:5 s++ or play+ reply to only "o encore2 to m1 m]ely b[ or (f] y\r excuses4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,actions ,,outdoors ,,section #a4 ,:5 walk+ alone a quick /ep is to be tak52 ! toes mu/ be turn$ out4 ,nev] run into a p]son1 if ord9>y c>e c prev5t x1 & especially give way to a lady1 no matt] h[ y may meet4 ,always keep to ! "r ( ! sidewalk1 & nev] pass 9 front ( a lady com+ at "r angles at a /reet corn]1 unless a di/ance ( six feet int]v5e betwe5 said lady & ! cross+-po9t :5 y rea* x4 ,9 b[+ :5 alone ! hat %\ld be c>ri$ quickly d[n to ! "r1 or left if left-h&$1 till ! back ( ! h& /rikes ! hip1 !n sl[ly replac$ on ! head4 ,! tak+-(f ( ! hat is to be accompani$ by a slight =w>d incl9ation ( ! body & a smile ( recognition4 ,unless ! cause ( ! act is kn[n to ! lady z well z y\rself1 nev] cut h]1 t is1 d n look at h] & refuse absolutely to return h] b[1 b recognize x 9 an indiff]5t mann] suffici5t to convey ! fact t some?+ is wrong1 & t ! return b[ 0 =c$1 :ile /ill x is polite4 ,if y "k a lady :om y dislike & h no desire to recognize1 nev] look at h] 9 pass+1 z y w\ld ?us invite recognition1 & w\ld be exce$+ly impolite 9 cutt+ h]4 ,:5 y meet a p]son walk+1 & t awkw>d dodg+ 9 ! ef=t to pass occurs1 always /op & turn slightly to ! "r till ! o!r has pass$ on4 ,if x be a lady1 ! expression 8,p>don0 is to be us$ z %e passes4 ,if y /ep on a man's foot1 address him ) an apology m]ely2 if on a lady's1 ! apology mu/ be accompani$ by a slight b[4 ,nev] c>ry a p>cel ( any k9d3 if a hat is to be tak5 to ! /ore1 c>ry x 9 a lea!r case2 if articles ( we>1 c>ry !m 9 a sat*el4 ,d n we> too l>ge a b\tonnire2 a few doz5 violets or two or ?ree p9ks1 or a few sprays ( lily ( ! valley1 or a few pansies1 or a v small r$ rosebud = aft]noon1 & z few leaves z possible4 ,= ! ev5+ a few sprays ( hyac9? or lily ( ! valley is ! only prop] buttonhole b\quet4 #b4 ,:5 walk+ ) a lady keep ei!r a milit>y /ep1 or if h] /ep is too %ort = y\r com=t1 !n take a ,newport drag pace1 tak+ c>e t ! body does n rise mu*1 ?us prev5t+ a see-saw appe>ance4 ,always walk on ! side ne>e/ ! curb/one1 except 9 ! case ( a v cr[d$ /reet1 :5 x may be ! mo/ conv5i5t = ! lady to walk on y\r "r4 ,a di/ance ( half a foot %\ld be kept betwe5 ! lady & y\rself at all times :5 ! walk is n cr[d$2 ?is is necess>y always 9 ! daytime1 & also 9 ! ev5+ unless ! acqua9tance is su* z p]mits tak+ arms4 ,nev] lock arms 9 ! daytime4 ,always pay att5tion if y\r companion is speak+2 y\r m9d %\ld n be di/ract$ by p]sons or objects pass+2 !re is no?+ m unsatisfactory & disagreeable to a "y lady ?an = h] to realize t %e is unhe>d & unhe$$4 ,:5 ) a lady x is unnecess>y to /op at all to p]mit ano!r lady to pass :5 com+ at "r angles1 z is necess>y :5 alone4 ,:5 ra9+ always hold ! umbrella2 :5 sunny nev] (f] to1 or hold a p>asol1 unless expressly reque/$ to d s2 a sun%ade is = a lady to hold1 & looks out ( place 9 a g5tleman's h&1 unless x is a p>ticul>ly heavy "o1 or ! w9d is too /rong to p]mit ( ! lady c>ry+ x com=tably4 ,if %e has a sat*el or l>ge p>cel :5 y meet h]1 imm$iately (f] to c>ry x4 #c4 ,:5 jo9+ a lady1 if com+ t[>d h]1 wait till %e has pass$2 !n turn+1 jo9 h] ) ! usual or int5d$ salutation1 )\t /opp+ h]4 ,nev] come int5tionally face to face to jo9 h]2 %e w1 presumably1 ?9k t y wi% to /op1 & x is a settl$ conclusion t a lady & g5tleman %\ld nev] /op to talk on ! /reet2 9 a p>ty x is p]missible only if ! sev]al p]sons !re( h *anc$ to meet1 or are 9 ! act ( p>t+4 ,:5 jo9+ a lady 9 ! morn+ on ! /reet only accompany h] a few blocks1 = ! morn+ is %opp+-"t1 & escorts are seldom desir$4 ,nev] fail to raise ! hat on leav+ a lady on ! /reet1 or at doors or w9d[s4 ,:5 x is muddy cross be=e a lady t %e may pr(it by y\r action1 by cross+ 9 y\r foot-pr9ts4 ,if v muddy (f] y\r h& = h] support 9 f9d+ good foot-re/s4 ,nev] c>ry ! cane 9 ! h& next ! lady if x is possible to c>ry x 9 ! o!r2 if n possible1 because ! o!r is ! useful "o1 !n x %\ld be c>ri$ "u ! arm next to h] ) t h& plac$ at ! cane-head4 ,! reason ( ?is rule w be und]/ood on reflect+1 t if ! cane is c>ri$ 9 ! useful h&1 x mu/ necess>ily be convey$ to ! o!r e "t a man b[s2 x is a poor action1 & pres5ts an awkw>d appe>ance1 especially if ! cane drops4 ,?is rule also applies to umbrellas :5 roll$4 ,( c\rse ?is is pla91 z x is n suppos$ t a g5tleman :5 prom5ad+ c>ries any b ^! two articles4 ,nev] let a lady c>ry y\r cane 9 ! city4 ,:5 ent]+ a door or passageway1 all[ ! lady to prec$e y1 z is done indoors4 ,:5 ) a lady1 & %e b[s1 y\r b[ %\ld be less m>k$ ?an :5 alone2 ! hat is to be rais$ & c>ri$ quickly to ! front z l[ z ! *91 !n z spe$ily replac$4 ,:5 y consid] ! side y occupy1 ! advisability ( ?is mann] ( b[+ is at once se5 on reflect+ t a sweep+ b[ w\ld m or less int]f]e ) ! cont9uation ( y\r companion's recognition ( ! ?ird p>ty1 :i* is a compla9t ! majority ( "y ladies set up4 ,9 giv+ a lady soda-wat] or o!r cool+ dr9k1 d n all[ h] to use h] own k]*ief1 b insi/ ^u h] us+ "o ( y\r own2 a g5tleman %\ld always c>ry two4 ,also1 9 view ( ! fact t _m pockets 9 dresses are difficult to discov] imm$iately1 ! g5tleman %\ld ?us be prep>$ = em]g5cies4 ,if walk+ 9 ! aft]noon ) a lady1 & y are ov]tak5 by d>kness1 d n cont9ue1 b imm$iately bo>d a horse-c>1 ent] a /age1 or h y\r c>riage foll[ & meet y1 & ?us return4 ,?is rule is on ! pr9ciple t ladies & g5tlem5 %\ld n walk ! /reets aft] d>k1 & ?is pr9ciple is univ]sally approv$ ( by society4 ,! walk to & f c>s to att5d !at]s 9 ! ev5+1 is a diff]5t matt] entirely1 & _c be (f]$ 9 opposition to ! above rule 7z _m h claim$71 z x is conf9$ to only a few p>ticul> /reets1 & has no?+ :atev] to d ) av5ue prom5ades2 besides1 x is und]/ood t cross+ to !at]s is compulsory1 & s excusable4 ,9 tak+ a lady = a walk1 y %\ld always provide h] ) a fair-siz$ b\quet ( violets1 if popul>1 or1 if n1 ( roses to h>monize ) h] type1 :e!r blonde or brunette2 or any class ( fl[]s :i* y "k w\ld suit h] ta/e1 provid$ !y are n out ( /yle1 or unsuit$ to ! season or = /reet we>1 or p]haps too l\d = h] g5]al appe>ance4 #d4 ,:5 ) a lady1 always pay h] f>e 9 a public conveyance1 at a ticket (fice1 or gate1 or any place :]e f>e is dem&$1 unless %e has a ticket = ! occasion4 ,if 9 ! vehicle1 at ! (fice1 or gate1 or any place requir+ ! paym5t ( f>e1 & y meet a lady fri5d :o has n z yet paid h] f>e1 d n (f] to d s = h]1 z x is v bad =m1 & pres5ts ! appe>ance ( a desire on y\r "p to let p "k y h money1 & ! act m or less reflects ^u ! lady's purse4 ,if accompany+ a lady into a /ore1 d n (f] to buy h] ?is & t2 su* an act is simply out ( consid]ation2 x is an affront to h] purse1 & %e rejects y\r (f]2 no lady w\ld accept x unless = "s v trifl+ pur*ase4 #e4 ,:5 9 any cr[d$ public conveyance1 a lady gets 91 always rise imm$iately & notify h] ( ! vacancy4 ,d n ?9k1 because y are tir$1 y are ju/ifi$ 9 keep+ ! seat1 = y d n "k b t ! lady is j z tir$ z y\rself4 ,aga91 :5 y see a small space betwe5 two ladies1 d n try to w$ge y\rself 92 x is bett] to be uncom=table y\rself1 ?an to cause discom=t to ! ladies4 ,d n lean ov] or aga9/ a lady :5 hold+ ! /rap ov]head1 & %e is seat$ bel[4 ,always1 if next ! f>e-box1 (f] to deposit a lady's f>e1 especially 9 /ages4 ,nev] 9 city conveyances1 if a conductor is at h&1 (f] y\r assi/ance 9 rais+ or l[]+ a w9d[1 b solicit ! conductor to d x = y2 if none is ^u or 9 ! conveyance1 !n l5d y\r help4 #f4 ,:5 ask+ a lady to drive1 d s only on an advanc$ acqua9tance1 & d n keep h] out aft] d>k4 ,take c>e n to all[ ! :ip to dangle 9 h] face1 &1 9 urg+ on ! horses1 d s 9 an easy mann]1 )\t t sudd5 />t :i* ?r[s ! lady s viol5tly back 9 h] seat4 ,d n talk ab\t horses2 x is a v poor subject1 & savors ( poor ta/e4 ,9 call+ = a lady d n keep h] wait+1 b h ! vehicle at ! door on "t4 ,if possible to leave ! re9s loose on ! horses1 /ep out & help ! lady into ! vehicle1 !n pass r\nd to ! o!r side & take y\r seat1 c>efully adju/+ ! lap-robe ov] bo?4 ,d n keep up a cont9u\s *uckle to ! horses1 z x is a v monoton\s s\nd1 b use ! :ip4 ,a full driv+ suit %\ld always be worn if a lady accompanies y4 ,always we> gloves 9 driv+4 ,if y h spirit$ horses to h&le1 x is n necess>y :ile driv+ to take (f ! hat :5 recogniz+ a p]son2 a smile & an incl9ation ( ! head are suffici5t1 = tak+ (f ! hat int]f]es consid]ably ) y\r managem5t ( ! animals1 & has (t5 result$ 9 s]i\s accid5ts4 ,d n take a lady rid+ 9 ! morn+4 ,! aft]noon f ?ree till five is ! prop] "t4 ,nev] on any acc\nt drive on ,sunday4 ,nev] take a lady 9 a light wagon or buggy1 or out ) fa/ horses1 9 ! city1 = x is n /yli%2 9 fact1 su* turn\ts are common1 z 9 use only by sport+ m5 or horse lov]s4 #g4 ,rid+ %\ld be conf9$ to ! morn+ z mu* z possible1 & a complete outfit worn ^u all occasions4 ,especially is ?is urg$ :5 ) a lady4 ,always keep head & neck ( y\r own horse beyond y\r companion's1 if a lady1 9 view ( be+ able & prep>$ to assi/ h] 9 case ( fright or accid5t to h] horse4 ,always assi/ h] 9 m\nt+ & alight+ f h] horse4 #h4 ,sail+ is a pa/ime :i* c be indulg$ 9 at leisure by a g5tleman :o kn[s a ?+ or two ab\t su* pleasure2 :e!r he has confid5ce 9 8 ability or n1 if he v5tures ^u t pleasure he does s at 8 own risk4 ,b :5 he has a lack ( k1 & lack ( confid5ce 9 8 ability to h&le a boat1 n "u any consid]ation %\ld he v5ture to invite a lady to accompany him4 ,to take ladies sail+1 :5 y are ignorant ( ! me?ods ( h&l+ sail+ craft1 is a risk t (t5 has frightful results2 ^! h be5 (t5 se51 :]e summ] m5 :o "k positively no?+ ab\t ! art ( sail+ h issu$ invitations1 & v5tur$ on _! p]il\s1 unc]ta9 pleasure4 ,always take a skipp]1 & no dang] w arise4 ,take c>e to look fir/ aft] ! com=t ( ! ladies1 & always provide cu%ions1 field-glasses1 & especially ice-wat] 9 view ( a calm4 ,?is latt] is v (t5 neglect$1 to ! great di/ress ( ! ladies :5 ! boat is becalm$4 ,! writ] c safely make ?is sugge/ion1 z he _h su* an exp]i5ce himself4 ,illu/ration ,,p]sonal ,,appe>ance ,,section #a4 ,! h&s %\ld always be kept clean4 ,d n ?9k because y h gloves on t y are safe 9 neglect+ y\r h&s4 ,y may be sudd5ly call$ ^u to p]=m "s act :i* w\ld necessitate tak+ (f ! gloves1 ?us expos+ soil$ h&s4 ,! nails %\ld be kept p]fectly clean & project+ ab\t "o-twelf? ( an in* f ! t5d] fle% & n too po9t$1 & are to be only slightly poli%$4 ,all hang-nails %\ld be cut (f1 & advanc$ fle% pu%$ back f ! root ( ! nails4 ,d n we> too _m r+s4 ,a g5tleman %\ld nev] h on m ?an two1 & ^? to be plac$ "o on ea* h&4 ,always place !m on ! f+]s next ! little ones4 ,l>ge diamonds %\ld n be worn2 "o c>at is ! usual weight4 ,also1 d n we> broad b&s ( gold1 !y are v common-look+ on a g5tleman2 a seal-r+ or intaglio is q suffici5t4 ,nev] we> bracelets1 x is exce$+ly effem9ate4 ,&1 above all1 d n we> ladies' r+s4 #b4 ,! face1 if )\t a gr[+ be>d or m\/a*e1 %\ld be kept clean4 ,?is c be/ be done by a light %ave4 ,d n %ave too close2 to be sure x appe>s m free ( hair = ! "t be+1 b !n1 z ! hair gr[s out1 eruptions cov] ! face1 especially ! neck2 ?us = a few h\rs' clean appe>ance y und]go sev]al days' discom=t4 #c4 ,! tee? %\ld be kept clean1 :ite1 & poli%$4 ,x is necess>y t !y be kept clean1 z odors f !m sometimes give ! impression ( a disord]$ /oma*1 & makes conv]sation at close qu>t]s exce$+ly disagreeable4 #d4 ,! hair %\ld be c>efully bru%$1 ) a neat "p1 ! sides at ! front be+ slightly rais$ & pu%$ back4 ,! hair c be p>t$ on ei!r ! left1 "r1 or c5t] ( ! head1 b x %\ld nev] be flatt5$ & pla/]$ d[n1 z ! appe>ance is v weak5+ to ! "* ( ! face4 ,leave su* a fad to ^? ( bad ta/e1 :o h no?+ else to d b corrupt ! /&+ cu/oms4 #e4 ,d n1 no matt] h[ mu* displeas$1 at any "t we> a sc[l or sev]e expression2 x does y no good z to o!rs1 = !y d n "k ! cause !re(1 & !y naturally conclude y to be ( a disagreeable disposition4 ,equally true is x t ! face %\ld be free f t incessant smil+ :i* ov]spreads ! c\nt5ances ( s _m4 ,! face %\ld possess nei!r "o ( ^! expressions1 b pres5t a set1 firm appe>ance1 convey+ no idea ( ! ?\ghts ( ! m9d4 ,outw>d causes are exceptions to ! *anges ( facial expressions4 ,:5 talk+1 c>e %\ld be tak5 n to accompany ! words ) di/ortions ( ! face4 ,! m\? %\ld n be op5$ too wide1 nor ! tongue /uck out4 ,nev] bite ! lips or pick ! tee?1 z bo? di/ort ! face4 ,nev] use ! eyes 9 a flirtati\s mann]1 z x is v poor ta/e & %[s conceit4 ,also1 d n glance at a /range lady 9 a /eady or imp]t95t mann]2 lea/ ( all on ! /reet or 9 public vehicles4 #f4 ,y\r position %\ld always be z dignifi$ z possible2 if sitt+1 ! body %\ld be held upright & ! arms gracefully plac$1 & n twi/$ or hung ov] ! back ( ! *air4 ,always face ! p]son :om y are address+4 ,:5 /&+1 y\r position mu/ be /raight1 %\ld]s back1 & head well up4 ,! legs to be close toge!r or "o slightly advanc$1 9 a position ( re/4 ,! arms c be c>ri$ ei!r by lock+ h&s beh9d ! back1 or 9 front1 or !y c be fold$ ^u ! *e/2 ei!r way c be made to appe> graceful4 ,:5 walk+1 ! body is c>ri$ z 9 /&+1 & ! busy h& mu/ c>ry its cont5ts z gracefully z possible1 :ile ! o!r h& is all[$ to hang by ! side1 mov+ only ) ! motion ( ! body4 ,bo?1 if free1 mu/ hang ?us2 nev] put !m 9 ! pockets4 ,illu/ration ,,habits ,,section #a4 ,smok+ %\ld be conf9$ entirely to a /udio1 smok+-room1 draw+-room1 or libr>y1 :5 ladies are1 or int5d to be1 9 ! vic9ity lat]1 & %\ld nev] be indulg$ 91 ev5 9 ! places m5tion$ above1 if ! ladies are pres5t1 )\t _! unanim\s cons5t !reto4 ,smok+ 9 ! /reet is also object$ to1 exception be+ made :5 on ! front plat=ms ( c>s1 :5 a g5tleman %\ld make x 8 duty to see t ! smoke does n prove disagreeable to ladies 9 ! c>4 #b4 ,dr9k+ to excess is n ! habit ( a g5tleman4 ,dr9k %\ld be tak5 only 9 mod]ation1 especially at d9n] p>ties :5 ladies are pres5t4 ,d n boa/ ( y\r fondness = ! bev]age4 ,if y *ance to be at all "u ! influ5ce ( liquor1 or ev5 if y h m]ely a /rong odor ( x on ! brea?1 d n att5d a reception or dance1 z su* an odor is n p]fume to ! p>tn]s ) :om y may dance or conv]se4 #c4 ,*ew+ tobacco or o!r /uff manufactur$ = ! same purpose %\ld nev] be indulg$ 9 by a g5tleman1 no matt] :]e he is4 ,spitt+ mu/ n be practis$ 9 ! pres5ce ( ladies1 & %\ld be done away ) entirely unless alone & out ( sight ( o!rs4 ,cle>+ ! ?roat %\ld n be done 9 ladies' company1 & be c>eful n to all[ indications ( indige/ion to rise noisily 9 ! ?roat4 ,& la/ly1 d n hiss ?r\gh ! tee? or hum to y\rself 9 company4 #d4 ,d n1 no matt] h[ cramp$ y may be1 /ret* 9 ! pres5ce ( ladies1 & n at all at ! table1 ev5 if alone4 ,yawn+ %\ld be conf9$ to y\r own pres5ce /rictly1 or1 if x is irrepressible1 place ! f+]s be=e ! m\?4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,conv]sation ,,section #a4 ,nev] use s>casm 9 direct conv]sation1 z x is b a veil$ =m ( insult4 ,d n use deceit1 especially 9 conv]s+ ) a lady2 also1 avoid prev>ication1 z su* is bad policy4 ,d n boa/1 x is an absurd habit to fall into4 ,too _m puns or jokes become monoton\s2 jokes %\ld n be told 9 ref]5ce to a p]son pres5t1 unless ! acquiesc5ce ( ! p>ty be fir/ receiv$4 #b4 ,y\r gramm> %\ld be ( ! be/1 & y\r words select$ ) great c>e4 ,l>ge words %\ld be us$ v seldom unless ! topic ( conv]sation calls = !m4 #c4 ,laught] %\ld nev] be =c$2 if y are n amus$1 m]ely smile4 ,:5 laugh+ at a small matt] d s 9 a light1 s9c]e way2 :5 amus$ by "s good joke or occurr5ce1 laugh he>tily b n too l\dly2 m]ely convey ! fact t ! joke or ev5t is appreciat$4 ,?is rule %\ld apply at all times :5 ladies are pres5t4 #d4 ,nev] flatt] a lady1 = x is ! poore/ sub/itution = a s5sible topic t 0 ev] ?\ght ( 9 society4 ,x is dislik$ by ladies & g5tlem5 alike1 & x %[s ins9c]ity 9 its e use4 ,if y desire to say some?+ nice to a p]son1 make use ( m s]i\s expressions1 commonly kn[n z complim5ts1 =1 if y int5d to complim5t & speak too sweetly1 x is n su*1 b flatt]y1 y are mak+ use (4 ,only complim5t :5 a p]son des]ves x1 & d n d s too (t54 #e4 ,9 society "o %\ld always be prep>$ = impromptu conv]sation1 or small talk1 & %\ld always h pl5ty ( x 9 /ock2 t is1 n ! :ole sub/ance ( ! expect$ conv]sation1 b subjects ^u :i* y c conv]se at a mom5t's notice4 ,at receptions1 teas1 d9n]s1 dances1 or any o!r ent]ta9m5t1 ! topics %\ld be select1 & ! oral abilities prep>$ to discuss !m 9 a free & famili> way4 ,su* topics might well be class$ "u ! simple heads ( ,art ( late/ ,arti/s1 ,receptions1 ,teas1 etc41 & especially ,late/ ,novels1 !n also ,plays & ! criticisms1 or ,not$ ,p ( ! ,day4 ,y w f9d any "o ( ^! suffici5t = %ort conv]sation4 ,lit]ature & grave subjects w\ld prove too ext5sive4 ,try n to criticize p sev]ely1 & d n speak on any subject :i*1 aft] a few rem>ks1 appe>s un9t]e/+ or di/a/eful to ! p]son conv]s+ ) y4 ,:5 a subject has be5 once discuss$ & ab&on$ by all1 x is bad ta/e to return to x dur+ t same conv]sation or 9 ! same company4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,correspond5ce ,,& ,,invitations ,,section #a4 ,correspond5ce is a ?+ :i* e man %\ld be able to d well 9 all its bran*es1 :e!r social or bus9ess1 :e!r =mal or o!rwise1 :e!r brief or ext5d$ 9 its subject-matt]4 ,a g5tleman %\ld always be able to write s5sible lett]s1 & to ! po9t1 )\t deviat+ f ! g5]al topic4 ,:5 correspond+ ) o!r m5 keep /rictly1 unless ) a v close fri5d1 to ! subject 9 "q4 ,b :5 writ+ to ladies ! rule is diff]5t4 ,to adh]e s exactly to ! topic ( discussion is significant ( a desire to h ! matt] ?r\gh )4 ,always add fur!r casual rem>ks t5d+ to %[ an int]e/ beyond ! duty ( correspond5ce4 ,! ladies' writ+ rule is j ! rev]se4 ,x does v well to ins]t1 "h & !re1 witty rem>ks to break ! monotony ( a l5g?y epi/le4 ,above all1 x is advis$ to ab/a9 f putt+ 9 writ+ any words imp>t+ affection or solicit+ su* f ! lady4 ,write y\r lett] 9 "o complete "p2 t is1 let all y h to say be p5n$ ^u any numb] ( %eets y may desire1 b be sure x is betwe5 ! head address & y\r signature4 ,nev] add a po/script2 ?is 9 lett]s1 l a p>5!sis 9 s5t5ces1 has ! appe>ance ( poor con/ruction4 ,d n write crosswise on ! pap]1 & avoid blott+ ! same4 ,also see t y nev] write to a lady on (fice pap]1 or any :i* is ink-l9$1 = y\r social correspond+ pap] %\ld always h a cre/ or monogram at ! top1 & su* w\ld n appe> well or to advantage on t :i* is l9$4 ,if y desire rul$ pap]1 let ! l9es be su* z are press$ into x dur+ manufacture4 ,la/ly1 nev] use hotel pap]1 except 9 ! summ]1 & !n only :5 travel+ or visit+ )\t a trunk1 :i* %\ld always conta9 e necessity ( a trip4 ,if x is =mal1 a lady's lett] %\ld be answ]$ imm$iately1 if !re is ! lea/ h9t ( a reply 9 x1 b )\t su* h9t ! g5tleman mu/ n answ]4 ,if x is in=mal1 he mu/1 if reque/$ to reply1 d s imm$iately1 o!rwise he may suit himself1 b )9 a limit ( "o mon?2 lat]1 polit5ess w\ld be at /ake4 ,b ! lady %\ld n be expect$ to answ] 9 ei!r case to y\r lett] unless %e feels s dispos$1 or y %[ good reasons :y %e %\ld1 & expressly reque/ h] to d s4 ,=mal correspond5ce c be indulg$ 9 betwe5 any p]sons :o may be relat$1 v de> fri5ds1 or ev5 m]e acqua9tances4 ,) ! fir/ two classes1 a g5tleman c correspond =mally at any & all times1 unless expressly solicit$ n to d s by ! lady's p>5ts1 or gu>dians1 or h]self4 ,b 9 ! la/ case he mu/ h a reque/ to (f] or an answ] to return1 & x %\ld be v =mal1 imply+ by its v subject-matt] t necessity caus$ ! correspond5ce4 ,:5 writ+ a =mal note to a lady acqua9tance1 )\t h] cons5t1 m]ely sign y\r "n to ! matt] & place !re9 y\r c>d1 su* z is describ$ 9 ,sec4 #h1 ,actions ,indoors4 ,nev] write y\r address b5ea? ! signature1 or1 z is sometimes done1 above ! head address1 9 ?is class ( notes4''' ,b in=mal & l5g?y correspond5ce only p]ta9s to1 & c be ex]cis$ at all times by1 v de> fri5ds1 fiancs1 or v de> relatives4 ,acqua9tances mu/ be subject$ to ! rule ( =mality ( correspond5ce1 till !y h rea*$ ! relation ( fri5d1 :i* c be acquir$ only aft] eight or t5 meet+s1 :5 !re has be5 suffici5t conv]sation to e/abli% :at ! p>ties mutually agree to con/itute fa/ fri5d%ip4 #b4 ,invitations are s _m & v>y+ 9 _! nature1 t x is g5]ally difficult to say :at k9d ( a reply1 & h[ soon1 %\ld be giv54 ,b all c be summ$ up 9 a few divisions1 viz43 ,reception1 ,dance1 & ,w$d+ invitations4 7a7 ,reception invitations are nev] to be repli$ to1 unless accompani$ ) an in=mal invitation to an aft]-reception dance1 be>+ an ,r4 ,s4 ,v4 ,p41 :5 a few days c be p]mitt$ to elapse be=e reply+ !reto4 7b7 ,a w$d+ invitation1 l ! reception1 ne$s no reply1 except "u ! same conditions z annex$ to reception invitations4 ,b dances are ! subjects = :i* doz5s ( diff]5t k9ds ( invitations are issu$1 :5 x is decid$ly difficult to asc]ta9 ! exact "t1 or answ] z desir$ by ! invit]4 ,! answ] dep5ds ^u ! numb] ( invit]s includ$ 9 ! invitation2 ! "t ^u ! numb] ( days int]v5+ be=e ! date ( ! ev5t2 if two weeks1 ! regul> "t allott$1 !n an imm$iate reply is necess>y 7exceptions 9 subscription dances74 ,if two or ?ree ladies or g5tlem51 or bo?1 are ! invit]s1 !n address ! reply to ! "o s select$ z secret>y = ! reception ( replies1 & ( c\rse sign y\r "n on ! completion ( ! reply2 !n 9 ! left-h& l[] corn]1 p51 8,polit5ess to02 !n write1 "o b5ea? ! o!r1 ! names ( all ! invit]s1 includ+ ! secret>y la/2 ?is %[s t ! reply is politely t5d]$ to all4 ,9 a subscription dance1 an invitation = all & e date ( dances is usually s5t out six weeks be=e date ( fir/ meet+1 9 :i* case ?ree or f\r weeks at ! mo/ c be all[$ to pass2 b no matt] :5 ! invitation is receiv$1 if two or six weeks prior to ! fir/ meet+1 always reply at lea/ two weeks be=e su* fir/ date4 ,d9n]s1 teas1 breakfa/s1 etc41 are ! same z dances z to "t & answ]4 ,invitations by c>d to call are n to be answ]$1 b %\ld be ackn[l$g$ 9 p]son1 z soon aft] _! reception z possible4 ,invitations to subscription dances ne$ only be address$ to ! secret>y or invit]4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,p]sonal ,,actions ,,section #a4 ,:5 a g5tleman accepts ! honor$ position ( escort he is suppos$ to d s will+ly1 & ) ! int5tion ( fulfill+ its _m requirem5ts4 ,d n accept & accompany a lady to h] int5d$ de/9ation1 & cont9ually %[ any displeasure 9 y\r position4 ,pay /rict att5tion to h]1 & leave h] only :5 %e is engag$ 9 "s dance or occupation ) ano!r p>tn]4 ,"y ladies take escorts 9 sub/itution = a bro!r or relative1 & :5 s tak+ expect to f9d !m cong5ial & z equal to _! duties z any bro!r or relative w\ld be4 ,:5 ask+ a g5tleman z escort ! lady is expect$ to furni% ! c>riage if x is h] desire to ride2 x is n necess>y = ! g5tleman to br+ h] fl[]s 9 return = h] k9dness1 b an aft]-gift ( ! same w suffice4 ,:5 ask+ a lady to give y ! pleasure ( h] company = any ev5t1 y mu/1 ( c\rse1 expect to pay all exp5ses2 if 9 ! ev5+1 & %e is an old acqua9tance1 always expect to furni% a c>riage4 ,if only an acqua9tance1 & x is necess>y to use a c>riage1 !n a *ap]on %\ld be br\ght ) y4 ,b ! c>s are g5]ally ! mode ( travel :i* c be us$ if a *ap]on is n desir$4 ,nev] take advantage ( y\r situation :5 9 a c>riage alone ) a lady1 by address+ h] 9 any way too famili> to be polite4 #b4 ,extravagance is "o ( ! greate/ faults into :i* "y & old p]si/ 9 fall+4 ,v few society m5 "k :at economy means4 ,s to po9t out a few ways by :i* extravagance may be at lea/ modifi$ by g5tlem53 7a7 ,x is v poor ta/e = a p]son to %[ by 8 attire extravagant incl9ations4 ,d n dress too gaudily1 or *ange ! suits m ?an is ord9>ily necess>y = special occasions4 ,let y\r dress be n too co/ly1 n too l\d1 b neat1 ( ! /yles describ$ 9 ,"p ,i4 ( ?is book1 & d away ) too great a v>iety ( top & ov] coats1 neckties1 pat5t lea!r %oes 7= walk+71 &1 above all1 elaborately figur$ wai/coats1 also elaborate canes4 ,!y all comb9e n only to appe> extravagant1 b de/roy ! effect ( simple elegance4 7b7 ,d n sp5d money = a ?+ unless x is necess>y = y\r own good or t ( a relation4 ,pres5ts giv5 by a s+le man %\ld be simple & ( slight co/4 ,if engag$ ! rule is less /rict2 b if m>ri$ a man %\ld n only tea* himself ! law ( economy1 b also 8 wife & *ildr54 ,su* gifts z c&y1 fl[]s1 jewelry1 etc41 %\ld be giv5 only by v de> fri5ds1 :i* relation p]mits su* pres5ts to be ( slight co/1 :ile !y are appreciat$ z if ( great co/4 ,co/ly gifts to acqua9tances are a gross extravagance4 #c4 ,kiss+ is a pleasure :i* is n to be indulg$ 9 except among de> relatives1 ! family1 wife1 or y\r fiance4 ,nev] kiss or embrace a p]son outside ( ^! exceptions1 no matt] h[ old fri5ds !y may be4 ,no lady w\ld all[ y su* a privilege1 & if %e %\ld s f> =get h] /&+ z to p]mit ! act1 y w\ld be rude1 exce$+ly s1 & no g5tleman1 to take advantage ( h] =getfulness4 ,nev]1 on any acc\nt1 kiss or embrace ! p]sons1 z /at$ above1 9 a public place1--x is common4 ,no "o kn[s y\r relation%ip1 & no "o ! l5g? ( "t ( sep>ation2 besides1 ! act ( kiss+ is v undignifi$ & ungraceful4 ,( c\rse ^! rules only apply to g5tlem52 !y are n en=ceable 9 respect to ladies1 z ! fem99e sex is suppos$ to be m demon/rative4 ,famili>ity1 ?\gh all[$1 bre$s contempt by degrees4 #d4 ,famili>ity is a subject ^u :i* ! majority ( society m5 c disc\rse flu5tly1 s practis$ are !y 9 ! art4 ,9 fact1 society is infect$ ) ?is disease4 ,x reigns on all occasions1 be !y private or public4 ,x is f\nd 9 ! mo/ ari/ocratic circles1 z 9 ^? ( less ref9em5t4 ,:y %\ld ?is cont9ue8 ,x %\ld n4 ,bo? ladies & g5tlem5 use x2 b ( g5tlem51 alone1 ,i n[ speak4 ,fre$om ( spee* & fre$om ( mann] con/itute ! g5]al heads ( famili>ity4 7a7 ,fre$om ( mann] has be5 p>tly def9$ "u ! heads ( kiss+ & embrac+4 ,d n on any acc\nt all[ ( any rude actions on y\r "p2 always keep a polite di/ance f a lady1 & d n1 if y take h] h&1 reta9 too long a hold !re(1 or press x ) y\r own2 9 fact1 nev] t\* a lady unless %e is relat$ to y1 "u ! heads set =? 9 ,section #c1 ,p]sonal ,actions1 unless x becomes absolutely necess>y2 !n d x 9 ! mo/ polite mann] possible4 7b7 ,fre$om ( spee* is ! mo/ important head ( famili>ity1 & includes _m classes ( rud5ess4 ,d n be imp]t95t 9 y\r rem>ks to ladies1 ask no p]sonal que/ions1 d away ) rude spee*2 seek n to imp>t to h] t :i* %e %\ld n "k1 or tries to turn a deaf e> to4 ,improp] rem>ks are poison f ! tongue1 & t5d to ru9 y\r reputation 9 h] e/imation1 z a g5tleman1 soon] or lat]4 ,x is no excuse if %e tol]ates y\r advances or n1--a g5tleman is a g5tleman1 & %\ld rema9 s4 ,n only is ?is rule applicable to acqua9tances1 b x %\ld be /rictly obs]v$ 9 y\r own family4 ,y\r si/]s %\ld be z acqua9tances z respects y\r behavior1 & y\r "m & fa!r %\ld comm& respect 9 y\r e ^w or action4 #e4 ,a g5tleman1 because he is m>ri$1 %\ld n suppose himself fitt$ = ! position ( *ap]on on occasions :]e x is necess>y to leave ! city1 or x is an ev5+ affair2 on ! contr>y1 x is 8 duty to refuse acceptance ( su* a position1 unless himself & wife act z ! *ap]ons4 ,if s+le1 he %\ld nev] (f] 8 s]vices z *ap]on4 ,he may be su* 9 ! daytime1 )9 ! city1 act+ z a guide or protector ( 8 companion2 b ?is is a v weak =m ( *ap]onage comp>$ to t cu/om>y 9 society1 :i* =m g5]ally conc]ns only ev5+ or out-(-t[n ev5ts1 :5 a /rict] rule is appli$1 "u ! conditions ( :i* a g5tleman c nev] be a *ap]on4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t ?\gh guide & protector are ! true mean+s ( ! ^w *ap]on1 yet1 z f> z a g5tleman c ex]cise t "r1 he c be no m ?an an escort4 #f4 ,a g5tleman %\ld %ake h&s z seldom z possible4 ,on introduction & at p>t+ %\ld be ! *ief occasions = ! act4 ,?is rule ref]s only to y\r own sex4 ,) ladies x is f> /rict]4 ,y %\ld n %ake h&s on introduction to ladies1 nor at p>t+2 b at ! next meet+1 or subsequ5t ones1 if !y appe> desir\s ( su* a cordial greet+1 grasp _! h&1 = x is at ! option ( a lady :e!r or n ! h&s %\ld come 9 contact ) ea* o!r2 b nev] %ake at p>t+4 ,:5 tak+ a lady's h&1 grasp x firmly1 b g5tly1 j suffici5t pressure to convey ! feel+ ( cordiality1 no?+ m1 & rais+ h] h& to ! height ( h] wai/1 %ake x g5tly two or ?ree times1 !n release x2 nev] hold x :ile speak+1 & d n attempt t awkw>d1 lately orig9at$ /yle ( rais+ ! h&s above ! face1 ) ! f+]s twi/$ out ( %ape2 x is clumsy1 decid$ly ridicul\s 9 appe>ance1 & v uncom=table = ! lady4 #g4 ,nev] kiss a lady's h& :5 9 public1 & nev] privately1 unless engag$ or v mu* atta*$ to h]1 & n !n unless %e is will+ to und]go ! torture4 ,d n1 z 9 h&-kiss+1 ?r[ kisses to a p]son 9 public1 & n at all unless "u ! conditions /at$ above4 #h4 ,:5 engag$ a g5tleman %\ld devote all 8 sp>e mom5ts to 8 fiance4 ,he %\ld compel himself to =sake o!r ladies' society1 all[+ himself to be ?r[n !re9 only :5 accompany+ 8 int5d$ to ent]ta9m5ts or dances1 & !n %\ld control himself1 s z to give no cause ( jeal\sy by 8 actions or app>5t int]e/ 9 o!rs ( ! fair sex4 ,he %\ld give all pres5ts to h]1 take h] to all ! ent]ta9m5ts & dances1 &1 9 fact1 let h] f9d him always devotion 9 ev]y?+4 ,clubs %\ld be p>tially or :olly neglect$ = h]4 ,ev5 "u ! circum/ances1 famili>ity %\ld be gu>d$ly ex]cis$1 especially ) h] family4 #i4 ,introductions are ! mo/ important ( any ( ! num]\s acts ( society1 con/itut+ a cu/om e/abli%$ by long & frequ5t usage4 ,x is easy to introduce1 no matt] h[ or 9 :at mann] x is done1 & n9ety-n9e p] c5t4 ( introductions are ei!r improp]ly conduct$ or a m]e m5tion ( names4 ,to con/itute a prop] introduction !re mu/ be ?ree requisites1 viz43 ,suffici5t language to imply an introduction1 an objective "n & a subjective "n ea* di/9ctly pron\nc$4 ,t is to say3 ! object is ! p]son to :om ! subject is pres5t$2 second1 ! subject ( ! introduction is ! "o :om y pres5t4 ,y mu/ pron\nce bo? names di/9ctly4 ,fir/1 be sure t bo? are aw>e ( y\r int5tion & secure ( ea* o!r's att5tion1 !n proce$ by say+3 7,ex47 8,miss ,smi? object1 please all[ me to pres5t ,mr4 ,br[n subject40 ,?is is all1 & x is z simple z c be2 yet p w mumble & /amm] & /umble ?r\gh an introduction z if x 7 ! mo/ difficult ( p]=mances4 ,if ! object or subject ( an introduction is a si/]1 bro!r1 or p>5t1 d n say1 z _m d--,miss ,smi?1 my bro!r1 or my si/]1 nam+ ! relation only2 b say always--,miss ,smi?1 my bro!r1 ,mr4 ,br[n4 ,?is rule is 9 view ( ! fact t ! introduc]'s "n is n always famili> to ! object4 ,nev] m5tion ! "n ( ! subject fir/4 ,:5 introduc+ ext5d ! "r or left h& z a ge/ure t[>ds ! p]son :om y are introduc+4 ,x is important to make introductions c>efully & at ! prop] "t4 ,d n suff] a p]son ) :om y are acqua9t$ to rema9 9 y\r own p>ty )\t introduc+ him to e memb] ( t p>ty4 ,:5 talk+ to a p]son1 & jo9$ by a ?ird1 imm$iately introduce4 ,! rules ( introduction %\ld be /rictly obs]v$ 9 reg>d to ladies4 ,z mu* z possible avoid introduc+ on ! /reet1 & :5 do+ s d n /op ! objective p]sons1 b jo9 !m z expla9$ 9 ,section #d1 ,actions ,outdoors1 :e!r lady or g5tleman1 & pres5t ! subject :ile walk+4 ,d n introduce to "y ladies "u age )\t ! *ap]on's or gu>dian's cons5t1 & ladies ( age )\t _! approval hav+ fir/ be5 receiv$4 ,d n pres5t or attempt to pres5t a man ( ^: "* or reputation y are d\btful2 = ?\s&s ( s]i\s results h be5 ?us occasion$4 ,illu/ration ,,propos+ ,a g5tleman1 :5 he is sure t 8 atta*m5t to a lady has atta9$ p]fection1 & is positive ( be+ ev] aft]w>d s atta*$ to h] z to p]mit ( no di/urbance ( t affection by =ce ( circum/ances1 may !n & only !n h ! "r ( ask+ = h] h& 9 m>riage4 ,x is a mu*-moot$ "q :e!r a g5tleman %\ld ask ! p>5ts' or gu>dian's cons5t to ! proposal1 if ! "y lady or himself or bo? are "u age4 ,if we foll[ ! cont95tal rule1 ?is is ! prop] action 9 ! matt]4 ,?is c\rse is c]ta9ly m honorable4 ,x matt]s n :i* p>5t is fir/ consult$1 ?\gh ! fa!r is pref]r$4 ,! p>5t1 or p>5ts1 or gu>dian may be consult$ 9 p]son or by lett]4 ,aft] _! cons5t has be5 ga9$1 ! proposal is made to ! woman *os54 ,if %e refuses1 !n no?+ m on ! subject ne$ be said till subsequ5t proposals are attempt$4 ,a refusal ne$ n be report$ to ! p>5ts or gu>dians4 ,if %e accepts1 he imm$iately in=ms !m4 ,if bo? p>ties are ( age1 or indep5d5t1 x is n ess5tial to a proposal t p>5ts or gu>dians %\ld be consult$4 ,,h[ ,,to ,,propose ,rememb] t y are a g5tleman1 & success w be y\rs if ! lady possesses any love or affection 9 h] he>t = y4 ,x is be/ n to =ce y\r suit ^u a woman1 = su* engagem5ts (t5 cause ei!r a break+ ( ! engagem5t betwe5 ! p>ties1 or unhapp9ess to bo?4 ,x is f> bett] to und]go ! pa9 ( a refusal = ! "t be+1 & endeavor to ga9 h] affection aft]w>d 9 view ( ano!r & m successful trial4 ,nev] propose 9 any way b 9 p]son4 ,lett]s are v poor m$iums ( ! affection2 besides1 a woman pref]s p]sonal t5d]s ( affection4 ,:5 y propose1 nev] d s unless alone ) ! lady1 ei!r 9-doors or out1 b n 9 public1 :5 prom5ad+1 driv+1 or rid+1 or on any occasion :]e %e _c give y h] undivid$ att5tion4 ,a proposal is1 next to a m>riage1 ! mo/ important ev5t 9 a man's life1 &1 if look$ favorably ^u by ! woman1 is su* also 9 h] life4 ,!re=e take pl5ty ( "t to ?9k ov] ! s]i\sness ( ! /ep2 consid] h[ mu* int]e/ ! lady has previ\sly %[n 9 y1 & ! result to y\r feel+s if refus$4 ,if a lady appe>s unc]ta9 9 h] answ]1 y c dep5d ^u x t %e is weigh+ 9 gold5 scales ! results1 ! /r5g? ( h] own affection2 &1 above all1 y may ju/ly & correctly con/rue t ! great] cause ( h] hesitation is unc]ta9ty ( y\r reg>d = h]1 :e!r true ( ! he>t1 or falsely /at$4 ,= no woman c>es to h a man "k t %e ent]ta9s affection = him unless %e is confid5t he w appreciate x4 ,?us if x be n a positive refusal1 b hesitation only1 always be det]m9$1 & decide = h] by describ+ ! happ9ess t only y c\ld furni% h]4 ,^! argum5ts1 if any?+ w\ld avail1 w help to /r5g!n & control h] decision4 ,always plead y\r cause ) eyes & spee* only4 ,:5 accept$ x is left to ! option ( ! suitor z to :at mode ( proc$ure w be/ express 8 delight & happ9ess4 ,b p]haps = ^? ( timid & ba%ful nature x is advisable to sugge/ a /&>d c\rse ( action1 viz43 :5 ! lady replies affirmatively1 imm$iately clasp h] 9 y\r arms2 ?is is n1 = true lov]s1 a v emb>rass+ position4 ,let ! embrace be g5tle1 simply to signify & give /r5g? & pro( ( y\r affectionate expressions prior to ! acceptance4 ,always /& :5 propos+1 z x l5ds dignity to ! occasion & all[s ( m fre$om 9 express+ ! feel+s2 besides1 x savors ( v little e>ne/ness to rema9 9 any o!r attitude :ile mak+ s important a confession4 ,be=e propos+ x w\ld be be/ to asc]ta9 h[ ! lady reg>ds y 9 any p>ticul> light4 ,if %e speaks favorably ( any "o ( y\r fasc9ations1 !n on t f\ndation y may attempt to build y\r future happ9ess4 ,d n propose 9 an unc]ta9 mann]1 ba%fully1 or yet too boldly4 ,be s]i\s1 desir\s1 & speak to ! po9t2 confess all y\r feel+s1 /ate ev]y?+ correctly & truly1 & 9 z tell+ language z y c possibly comm&4 ,d n laugh or smile1 or cause x to appe> an amus+ matt]4 ,x w\ld be utt]ly impossible to illu/rate ! language ( proposals1 = _m & v>i$ are ! me?ods employ$ & ! language us$4 ,b if a g5tleman adh]es to all ,i h /at$ on ! subject1 x w only be fate :i* w prev5t ! fulfilm5t ( 8 anticipations4 ,a g5tleman nev] makes free ) ! lady1 at ! "t ( ! acceptance1 beyond ! conditions /at$ h]e94 ,& f ! mom5t %e accepts him1 ?r\gh all h] life he mu/ be con/ant 9 8 att5tion to h]4 ,illu/ration ,,pres5ts ,"u ! g5]al head ( pres5ts is class$ any?+ giv5 to ano!r at "o's own exp5se4 ,give pres5ts to y\r own family1 relatives1 fiance1 or v old fri5ds1 b n to m]e acqua9tances4 ,,section #a4 ,fl[]s1 ?\gh %ort-liv$1 are nev]!less ! mo/ beautiful gift "o p]son c make to ano!r4 ,x %[s ta/e & a love ( nature1 & no?+ f9ds m appreciation 9 ! he>ts ( womank9d ?an fl[]s4 ,be c>eful 9 y\r selection2 suit ! color & quality to ! ta/e & dress ( ! lady4 ,h !m ta/ily laid 9 a box1 loosely1 if m]ely z a favor2 b if = a dance or ent]ta9m5t1 ! be/ way is to ga!r ! fl[]s loosely half-way d[n ! /ems1 & tie ) ribbon h>moniz+ 9 color1 plac+ at ! end ( ! b\quet a bun* ( leaves to hide ! /ems4 ,always s5d ! fl[]s 9 a box2 d n c>ry !m to ! lady y\rself--if 9 a hurry1 call a mess5g]4 ,fl[]s may be s5t to any lady1 m>ri$ or maid51 b nev] s5d !m z a w$d+ pres5t4 ,:5 desir\s ( s5d+ fl[]s to a lady ) :om y are ab\t to att5d an affair1 fir/ asc]ta9 :e!r %e desires to we> fl[]s1 & ! color ( ! g[n %e int5ds we>+4 ,x is h>dly ! fa%ion n[adays to c>ry h&-b\quets2 only loose fl[]s to be worn on ! dress %\ld be s5t4 #b4 ,jewelry %\ld be giv5 z seldom z possible outside ( y\r own family1 de> relatives1 or fiance4 ,if giv5 to o!rs1 x %\ld be v small1 co/ little1 & n be too elaborate2 hav+ m]ely en\gh beauty ab\t x to convey ! feel+ & int5tion ( ! gift4 ,a co/ly pres5t ( ?is class is seldom appreciat$ z x %\ld be1 unless x is giv5 to a lady :o /&s1 or int5ds to /&1 9 a v de> position t[>ds y1 or to a g5tleman fri5d ( long /&+ & s9c]e fri5d%ip4 ,! only exception all[able = co/ly gifts ( jewelry outside ( ^? rules already /at$ is 9 cases ( m>riage2 :]e ! act ( pres5tation ( jewels w\ld furni% no gr\nd ( suspicion fur!r ?an extravagance4 ,:e!r = a w$d+ or an ord9>y gift1 jewelry %\ld always be s5t 9 a box f ! /ore direct1 or by mess5g]2 nev] pres5t x 9 p]son4 ,& :5 call+ subsequ5tly refuse ! acceptation ( ?anks4 #c4 ,= bon-bons & elaborate boxes1 also = articles n class$ z jewelry1 a mu* m l5i5t rule is appli$4 ,9 fact1 except = m]e acqua9tances1 a pres5t ( ?is k9d may be giv5 to any "o1 fri5d or relative1 m>ri$ or unm>ri$4 ,^!1 too1 are n to be deliv]$ 9 p]son1 b s5t ) c>d f /ore or by mess5g]4 ,9 su* pres5ts1 z 9 o!rs1 ta/e & f9e judgm5t %\ld be ex]cis$4 ,to a gift ( any k9d :atsoev] an answ] %\ld n be expect$ = ?ree days4 #d4 ,photographs %\ld nev] be solicit$ f a m]e acqua9tance4 ,wait till y "k a lady well be=e ask+ = h] lik5ess4 ,no g5tleman %\ld be all[$ to possess1 nor %\ld he seek to possess1 a lady's picture )\t fir/ hav+ met h] at lea/ sev5 times4 ,he mu/ fir/ s e/abli% 8 fri5d%ip ) h] t :5 he asks = h] lik5ess %e _c ju/ly use ! common expression t 8he mu/ h h] photograph = fe> he might =get h] face10 b w\ld und]/& t 8 desire = x comes /raight f ! he>t1 & n ) ! int5tion ( add+ to a v>iety collection4 ,& x is also unnecess>y to comply ) a l reque/ f ! lady till ( fa/ acqua9tance4 ,an ex*ange ( photographs is g5]ally ! safe/ way ( ov]com+ any d\bt :i* may arise 9 y\r m9d z to ! disposition :i* ! lady w make ( y\r picture1 = !n ! maxim c be appli$--8,x's a poor rule :i* c't "w bo? ways40 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,g5]al ,,polit5ess ,,section #a4 ,a g5tleman %\ld always be p]fectly polite ) 8 social inf]iors1 no matt] h[ he may be br\ght 9 contact ) !m1 :e!r he meets !m 9 company ) 8 equals or inf]iors1 or if alone4 ,= ?\gh y\r inf]iors1 !y des]ve respect1 & a deviation f polit5ess on _! acc\nt w\ld cause y\r polit5ess t[>ds equals to appe> false1 a %ield to y\r true mann]4 ,always be polite to y\r inf]iors1 & x naturally foll[s t y w be polit5ess itself ) y\r equals4 ,a g5tleman has no sup]iors4 ,polit5ess is call$ = 9 e turn a g5tleman may make1 :e!r among ladies or g5tlem51 or inf]iors1 9 society or 9 bus9ess1 among relatives1 acqua9tances1 fri5ds1 or /rang]s4 #b4 ,an insult is n to be recogniz$ :5 (f]$ by an inf]ior2 pay no att5tion to su*1 unless x is foll[$ by viol5ce1 or :5 x places y 9 an awkw>d position 9 pres5ce ( equals1 & ev5 !n1 if f "o decid$ly inf]ior1 or a woman1 d n return x1 b summon ! ag5ts ( ! law to rid y ( ! nuisance4 ,if an equal1 x is at y\r own option :e!r or n y res5t ! insult1 :i* c be done by ! use ( irony2 ?us1 ?\gh an impli$ return ( ! insult1 y\r res5tm5t is on its face polit5ess itself4 ,duels are n all[able 9 ,am]ica1 & seldom 9 any c\ntry4 ,a deadly insult is n[ usually look$ ^u by society z a j cause ( expulsion ( ! insult] f its ranks1 z no long] wor?y ( ! "n ( g5tleman2 = mod]n society is m j ?an ! society 9 ! days ( knigh?ood1 :5 a gross insult w\ld be look$ ^u ) favor1 z b a prelim9>y to a te/ ( skill at arms4 ,all ! rem$y a g5tleman has 9 ?is age is ei!r an apology f 8 oppon5t1 or ! future avoidance & non-recognition ( him1 or1 9 extreme cases1 a resort to ! law4 #c4 ,! mo/ indiff]5t1 collect$1 firm1 & blas ( society m5 are susceptible to emb>rassm5ts4 ,no matt] h[ sure y may be ( be+ pro( aga9/ !m1 !re always comes a "t :5 ! firm f\ndation is und]m9$ by a sudd5 inp\r ( un=ese5 circum/ances1 :i* br+s y\r gu>d$ & =tifi$ walls ( conceit & coolness to e>?1 & t5ds to humble y\r pride4 ,n[1 _m society m5 hold t a man %\ld nev] become emb>rass$ "u any circum/ances4 ,n s2 !re are in/ances :]e to rema9 unmov$ & indiff]5t to emb>rassm5t w\ld %[ an uncultur$ ex]cise ( polit5ess4 ,= example1 h[ c\ld a g5tleman1 hav+ spok5 to 8 companion ( a ?ird p>ty 9 an insult+ mann]1 refra9 f emb>rassm5t :5 t companion subsequ5tly turns up & pres5ts ! ?ird p]son1 :o !reupon reproa*es him = 8 prior ins9uation & insult8 ,yet 9 n9ety-n9e cases out ( e hundr$ ! g5tle & polite society m5 rema9 unmov$ & unemb>rass$1 mak+ excuses & /at+ falsely4 ,yet !y leave impressions ( impolit5ess & rud5ess ^u ! m9ds ( _! victims4 ,suit ! necessity ( emb>rassm5t to ! occasion4 ,only if he has %[n m>k$ impolit5ess or rud5ess1 or bo?1 ne$ a g5tleman %[ conc]n subsequ5t to 8 rem>k or mann]4 #d4 ,temp] is ! la/ subject = discussion "h2 b x is n by any means ! lea/ 9 importance4 ,9 fact1 if x 7 n = a prop] control & ex]cise ( temp]1 !re w\ld h>dly be necessity = elucidat+ half ! subjects already s def9$4 ,! temp] %\ld nev] be display$ "u circum/ances p]ta9+ to society prop]4 ,t is1 to y\r equals a tranquil nature & mann] %\ld always be %[n1 no matt] h[ try+ ! position4 ,to inf]iors temp] %\ld n be %[n :ile 9 sight or he>+ ( equals1 & ev5 :5 alone ) s]vants or ag5ts only 9 case ( brea* ( duty1 & !n %\ld m]ely be %[n suffici5tly f> to make a reprim& m sev]e4 ,9 fact !re are s _m rem$ies = circum/ances t5d+ to r\se ! temp] t x %\ld be done away ) z a bad habit4 ,:5 y d s f> =get y\r polit5ess z to all[ ! temp] to rise1 be sure t x is n direct$ to a lady4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,visit+ ,a g5tleman %\ld z seldom z possible (f] a regret = an invitation to visit1 & :5 do+ s mu/ see t 8 excuse is a good "o4 ,only bus9ess1 travel+1 & sickness are suffici5tly /rong causes ( refusal4 ,to (f] a poor excuse is to cause a suspicion ( a dislike on y\r "p = ! invit]1 8 or h] family or home1 or p]haps t y are too little int]e/$ 9 ! :ole affair to bo!r ab\t visit+ ! p]son4 ,su* poor excuses1 ?\gh app>5tly suffici5t 9 y\r judgm5t1 n only appe> weak to ! invit]s1 b cause !m to neglect y 9 ! future 9 respect to visit+4 ,( c\rse1 if y are visit+ or ab\t to visit1 an excuse to t effect is suffici5t1 provid$ y expla9 t ! invitation y h accept$ 0 receiv$ & ackn[l$g$ prior to ! "o :i* y are regrett+4 ,y\r excuse1 :5 a good "o1 %\ld be /rong1 s9c]e1 & regretfully express$1 &1 above all1 nev] h9t t y w be at lib]ty = a visit lat]1 or at "s future date4 ,!re is su* a ?+ z be+ too indiff]5t 9 a regret to an invitation1 & also su* a ?+ z %[+ 9 a regret too deep an int]e/ or anxiety to accept4 ,& ?is latt] is bad en\gh )\t be+ accompani$ by broad h9ts4 ,if ! fir/ invitation 0 s9c]e & ! invit] really desir$ y\r company1 y may be sure a second attempt w be made & ano!r invitation issu$4 ,:5 accept+ an invitation1 x is be/ to adh]e /rictly to y\r acceptation ( ! k9dness & express su* 9 s9c]e t]ms4 ,d n be too effusive1 b to ! po9t1 = an acceptance is n a lett] & %\ld !re=e be %ort & =mal4 ,if a regret1 ! rule may be rev]s$1 z1 n int5d+ to visit1 y are ju/ifi$ 9 sub/itut+ a lett]1 :]eas acceptances are foll[$ by ! visit1 & a l5g?y epi/le w\ld be unnecess>y4 ,aft] hav+ accept$ an invitation1 be sure to take ) y a suffici5t supply ( clo!s = v>iety1 & also t y may be prep>$ = em]g5cies or a prolongation ( y\r visit4 ,x is v rude & impolite to inquire 9 y\r note ( acceptance z to ! l5g? ( "t ( /ay4 ,y may dep5d ^u x t no p]son hav+ any k ( society w\ld invite y =1 at ! mo/1 m ?an a week1 & if long] ! invit] w\ld acqua9t y ( ! fact 9 ! invitation4 ,b = a week or less ! invit] w\ld neglect to m5tion any giv5 "t ( /ay4 ,b x %\ld be und]/ood t at ! close ( ! second day ! visitor is to rem>k ^u 8 dep>ture z fix$ = ! foll[+ day2 !n if ! ho/ or ho/ess desire y\r pres5ce = a long] p]iod1 !y w express !mselves to t effect4 ,x is saf] always to take "o week's supply ( l951 9 view ( su* an expression f !m4 ,( c\rse ^! rules only apply to =mal invitations betwe5 fri5ds ( long /&+1 b :o h be5 m or less sep>at$1 or fri5ds ( late ackn[l$gm5t1 or p]haps1 9 r>e in/ances1 m]e acqua9tances1 & h no?+ :atev] to d ) fa/ fri5d%ip1 :]e x w\ld be absolutely impossible to gov]n ! p>ties 9 _! mann] ( recogniz+ & accept+ or regrett+ invitations1 & _! actions subsequ5t to _! arrival at ! place ( visitation4 ,su* an invitation is controll$ g5]ally by ! mutual acquiesc5ce & approval ( ! p>ties1 & is too in=mal to be consid]$ "u ! head ( =mal cu/oms4 ,!re=e to adh]e /rictly to ! ess5tial rules = a =mal visitor3 ,a g5tleman %\ld make x a rule to be punctual to ! "t set = 8 arrival1 be x morn+1 aft]noon1 or ev5+4 ,:5 expect$ 9 ! morn+ = breakfa/1 & ! place ( visit is out ( t[n1 if he arrives at 8 de/9ation e>li] ?an to 8 k ! family are accu/om$ to rise1 !n he %\ld occupy himself 9 "s way till x is "t to put 9 an appe>ance1 t he may be receiv$ by ! ho/ or ho/ess at a reasonable h\r4 ,! fir/ duty ( a visitor is to be punctual to breakfa/ e morn+ dur+ 8 /ay2 & m too1 he %\ld nev] fail to prec$e ! ho/ or ho/ess or bo? 7only ^!71 t he may be ?us prep>$ to receive !m ) ! usual morn+ salutation4 ,z to d9n]1 lun*1 or supp]1 punctuality is n consid]$1 z1 be+ 9 company ) 8 ent]ta9]1 x w\ld be h>dly possible = him to be dilatory4 ,a g5tleman %\ld nev] we> a dress+ g[n or slipp]s outside ( 8 room1 :5 visit+ or o!rwise4 ,he %\ld nev] ent] ! d9+-room till ! ho/ or ho/ess1 or bo?1 h prec$$ him4 ,table mann]s are ! same 9 visit+ z at d9n]s at home & ! l4 ,aft] any meal be c>eful n to appe> uneasy or dissatisfi$ ) ! proce$+s ( y\r ent]ta9]2 & d n1 no matt] h[ great a desire y may h1 express op9ions ^u any arrangem5ts1 or sugge/ any occupation = ! consumption ( "t1 )\t fir/ be+ ask$ = y\r advice or op9ion2 = v (t5 ! ho/ or ho/ess is l$ into do+ t :i* b = y\r reque/1 & ! fact ( y\r be+ a visitor1 !y w\ld nev] h ?\ght ( or desir$ to d2 s be c>eful always to control y\r desire to make sugge/ions4 ,let y\r conv]sation1 mann]s1 & actions be rul$ sub/antially z 9 call+4 ,nev] rema9 a/ir aft] ! ho/ or ho/ess1 or bo?1 h retir$1 b asc5d to y\r own room co9cid5tly ) !m & retire imm$iately4 ,dur+ a visit a g5tleman %\ld acquiesce 9 ev]y?+ reque/$ ( him by ho/ or ho/ess1 unless 8 op9ion is call$ =1 :5 he %\ld1 9 decid+ betwe5 8 ent]ta9]s & o!rs1 speak freely b imp>tially2 b if possible always decl9e ! honor ( judge4 ,d n appe> at ease or at home beyond ! unemb>rass$ ex]cise ( a visitor's duties1 = su* fre$om may t5d to cause dislike = y z presum+ on y\r lib]ties4 ,a g5tleman %\ld n visit unless he be prep>$1 9 case ( em]g5cies1 = a reque/ f ! ho/ess1 if ! ho/ is abs5t1 or f bo? if ! ho/ is himself incapable1 to act ! "p ( table-ho/2 & to d ?is he mu/ be ?or\ghly v]s$ 9 ! art ( c>v+ & s]v+ ! vi&s1 & 9 o!r ways demean+ himself z is ess5tial to ho/s4 ,9 fact1 9 go+ on a visit a g5tleman %\ld be pr(ici5t 9 its _m requirem5ts4 ,su* rules z are "h laid d[n w be suffici5t1 & w n fail 9 lead+ him safely ?r\gh ! m9or bran*es ( polit5ess4 ,,f9is4