,,lloyd',s ,,treatise ,,on ,,hats1 ,,) ,,tw5ty-,,f\r ,,engrav+s2 ,,conta9+ ,,novel ,,del9eations ,,( ,,8 ,,v>i\s ,,%apes1 ,,%ew+ ,,! ,,mann] ,,9 ,,:i* ,,!y ,,%\ld ,,be ,,worn1 ,,! ,,sort ,,( ,,face ,,& ,,p]son ,,be/ ,,suit$ ,,to ,,ea* ,,p>ticul> ,,hat1 ,,& ,,rules ,,= ,,_! ,,pres]vation2 ,,to ,,:i* ,,is ,,add$1 ,,! ,,:ole ,,process ,,( ,,hat-,,mak+2 ,,toge!r ,,) ,,! ,,cu/oms ,,& ,,regulations ,,( ,,j\rneym5 ,,hatt]s1 ,,& ,,o!r ,,useful ,,in=mation4 ---------------------------- ,d$icat$1 ) ,p]mission1 to ! ,head4 ---------------------------- ,,second ,,edition4 ,,london3 ,,pr9t$ ,,= ,,! ,,au?or1 ,by ,f4 ,?or[good1 #i1 ,addle-,/reet1 ,ald]manbury4 --- #ahai4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,preface4 ------- ,,to :at trifles d "s m5 owe a p]petuation ( _! 8fam\s memory40 ,!re is ,nimrod1 = in/ance1 n b :at he may h _h o!r & great] m]its1 yet he is be/ kn[n z a 8mighty hunt]10 & "o :o 8wore boots20 n[1 all[+ ! relation to be true1 & t he did hunt1 & he did we> boots1 is !re any?+ extraord9>y atta*+ to ei!r1 unless inde$1 x c\ld be prov$ t he _h wood5 legs1 or t he 0 capable ( sitt+ on ! backs ( two or m animals at "o "t2 & if su* 7 n ! case1 ! simple fact ( itself 0 nev] wor? record+2 z well may x be said1 a ?\s& ye>s h5ce1 t ,,lloyd 0 a great ,hatmak]1 & liv$ 9 a great ,city4 ,b possibly ! hunt+ sy/em ( ?is old g5tleman diff]$ mat]ially f ! pa/ime ( our mod]n ,tally-ho's1 & in/ead ( runn+ aft] h>es1 snipes1 & conies1 ,nimrod's sport 0 on ! field ( battle2 9 ^: days ! mo/ rational idea is1 t all 0 game :i* caus$ pursuits1 & all pursuits hunt+3 ,if x 7 n s1 & 8 maje/y's capability only ext5d$ to ! rid+ ^u a horse's back1 !re is n a but*]'s boy1 9 any c\ntry village betwe5 ,,b]wick & ,,/4 ,,ives1 t w\ld n h ridd5 ,nimrod's rump (f4 ,b x may be ask$ by ^? ^: incl9ations & pati5ce %all lead !m to hunt ?r\gh ! foll[+ pages1 :e!r ?is is :at x pr(esses to be1 a ,,preface1 :i* is suppos$ to expla91 or prep>e ! m9d = some?+ to come2 ! answ] to :i* is z foll[s3 ,a horse t w n g )\t ano!r be+ l$ be=e him1 is n wor? rid+1 & if :at is h]e9 writt5 requires a ,preface to r5d] x intelligible1 x is n wor? ! read+4 ,may1 #ahai4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,john ,,bull4 ,,! greate/ difficulty a pa9t] has pr(essionally to enc\nt] is to produce a /rik+ resemblance ( a c\nt5ance :]e !re are no /rik+ features3 j s ) ! ,hat call$ 8,,john ,,bull40 ,x has no m>k$ /yle ( peculi>ity 9 ! =mation2 b1 indep5d5t ( ! f9e texture1 !re is 9 x a comb9ation ( r>e qualities n (t5 met )3 = in/ance--x has 9 appe>ance /rong m>ks ( becom+ gravity--a bold b manly dignity--a pleas+ diffid5ce1 ) a consci\s1 yet unassum+ importance--& is recomm5d$ to p]sons some:at robu/ 9 =m1 features full & r\nd1 ) a complexion n too d>k4 ,9 we>+1 x %\ld nei!r be plac$ aside1 ?r[n too f> back1 nor br\ght p>ticul>ly =w>d ov] ! face1 = ! foll[+ reasons--! fir/ position w\ld bespeak an air ( non *allance--! second a sort ( slov5ly neglect 9 ! p]son--& ! ?ird an incommunicative sull5ness ( disposition4 ,,! ,,well+ton4 ,,s call$ f ! great ,h]o2 n = ! popul>ity ( ! "n alone1 b = ! reason t su* a ,hat 0 actually worn by him2 &1 9 fact1 x is a %ape uncommonly well suit$ bo? to 8 face & p]son2 ! =m] be+ a sort ( long oval1 & ! latt] )\t ! lea/ appe>ance ( bulk3 inde$ a pond]\s body1 tall or %ort1 ) a r\nd1 or :at is vulg>ly t]m$ a pudd+ face1 _c judici\sly %elt] itself "u a ,well+ton4 ,?is ,hat is n only p>ticul>ly becom+ ! p]son ( 8 ,grace1 b !re is t 9 its appe>ance :i* is /rongly *>act]i/ic ( 8 great m9d2 =1 to an excell5tly =m$ cr[n ( ab\t sev5 in*es deep1 ov]spread+ an in* at top1 !re is unit$ a f9e ar*$ brim ( small dim5sions1 tak+ a sm>ti% sweep ( ! f\r? "p ( a circle1 & :5 plac$ on ! head some:at a la ,francais1 c>ries ) x an uncommon degree ( brilliancy & fire3 & ! =e & h9d p>ts t]m9at+ 9 a close po9t1 cle>ly %[s t1 :e!r advanc+ or retreat+1 ?is mod]n ,c,,s> is always sure to c>ry 8 po9t4 ,,! ,,t&em4 ,?is is a ,hat :]e9 is display$ a good deal ( :at may be t]m$ "*2 = :i* reason1 its becom+ we>]s1 comp>atively speak+1 w be few 9 numb]2 b not)/&+ ?is m>k$ peculi>ity1 !re is a sort ( /yle 9 its g5]al feature :i* is uncommonly /rik+2 nor is !re any =m :atev]1 :]e s mu* ( t airy lightness is to be se51 z 9 ! ,t&em4 ,few p]sons ov] ?irty become ?is ,hat1 & none "u tw5ty1 & ev5 betwe5 ^? ages1 if ! head be m ?an tw5ty-two in*es1 or less ?an tw5ty-"o & a half 9 circumf]5ce1 ! :ole effect is de/roy$4 ,%ape ( ! face immat]ial1 provid$ ! complexion is n too d+y2 b1 above all ?+s1 nei!r ov]gr[n or little fat g5tlem5 %\ld we> ! ,t&em4 ,to h ! be/ effect :5 on ! head1 x %\ld be plac$ r =w>d1 incl9+ a little to "o side4 ,,! ,,tally-,,ho4 ,a v com=table & conv5i5t hunt+ ,hat1 p>tak+ 9 "s degree ! natural =mation ( ! head3 has _m advantages ov] ! old fa%ion$ cap2 is light1 ?\gh /rong--por\s1 :i* all[s ! heat ( ! head1 aris+ f ex]tion1 to fly (f--& ela/ic1 ! effect ( :i* is to sit close )\t pressure2 b1 above all1 x has a mo/ g5tlemanly appe>ance1 :i* x nev] fails to communicate to ! we>]1 p>ticul>ly if he be a true sportsman4 ,,! ,,%all[4 ,a ,hat m admir$ = ! ease & simplicity ( /yle ?an = any peculi> "* 9 its g5]al appe>ance2 be+ l[ 9 ! cr[n1 x is worn to mo/ advantage by tall ?9 g5tlem5 ) v l>ge heads2 & z ! =e & h9d "p ( ! brim is set ne>ly horizontal f ! base ( ! cr[n1 x has two great advantages2 ! fir/ ( :i* is1 t x may be conv5i5tly worn ov] a wig2 &1 secondly1 if worn )\t1 ! %irt coll> is kept clean mu* long] ?an usual4 ,?is ,hat1 to h its prop] effect1 %\ld be plac$ on ! head ) a /rict =mality ( set1 :i* 9 _m p]sons w beget an air ( importance4 ,n4 ,b4 ,! late ,ju/ice ,add+ton g5]ally wore a %all[4 ,,! ,,coburg4 ,,= /yle & =m has /rong claims to fav\r2 b1 be+ r small 9 appe>ance1 ! we>]1 to %[ to mo/ advantage1 %\ld be some:at sl5d] 9 8 make1 features n too prom95t1 & 9 /ature ab\t five feet five to five feet t51 b nei!r above nor bel[4 ,"o great advantage att5d+ ?is ,hat is1 t ! %ape ( ! we>]'s nose is n at all mat]ial1 provid$ x be n ( t class kn[n by ! t]m 8bottl$40 ,x may be worn a little aside1 b by no means plac$ too f> on ! head1 a fail+ v g5]al among c\ntry g5tlem54 ,,! ,,m>quis4 ,a well-proportion$ ,hat 9 e respect1 & may1 n inaptly1 be t]m$ ! ,univ]sal1 z x becomes mo/ p]sons :o we> x2 9 po9t ( =m1 !re is no?+ ( :at may be call$ "* or s+ul>ity 9 its appe>ance1 & has ! r>e prop]ty ( giv+ to ! we>] a sort ( dignifi$ affability1 a c\rte\s condesc5sion1 toge!r ) an agreeable mode/y1 at lea/ 9 appe>ance4 ,x is nam$ aft] a c]ta9 nobleman1 :o has all ! above qualities unit$1 al?\gh 9 ! prime ( life4 ,to %[ to advantage on ! head1 ?is ,hat %\ld n g l[] ?an ! tip ( ! e>s1 bo? ( :i* x may b>ely t\*1 unless ! we>] has a %ort neck1 9 t case x mu/ be worn some:at aside1 t\*+ "o e> only1 b by no means to be ?r[n back4 ,,! ,,ecc5tric4 ,unique 9 its way1 /rongly embody+ ! "n 9 its =m4 ,?is ,hat is p>ticul>ly recomm5d$ to g5tlem5 7& _m are to be f\nd7 :o hold _! und]/&+s libell$ by act+1 ?9k+1 speak+1 or dress+ l o!r m52 b1 x mu/ be obs]v$1 t sl5d] p]sons ) d>k c\nt5ances1 & ab\t ! middle size1 be/ become ^! ,hats3 =1 h[ev] ecc5tric a man w\ld wi% to appe>1 by adopt+ any peculi> mode ( dress1 he nev] c hope to succe$ unless nature has done a little = him2 x foll[s !n ( c\rse1 t a tall or %ort man1 if he be /\t & well gr[n1 ) a f9e op5 florid c\nt5ance1 _c clev]ly become an ,ecc5tric2 b an agreeable contorsion ( ! eye1 a trifl+ disagreem5t 9 ! symmetry ( ! %\ld]s1 or a slight bias ( ! body "r or left1 are indescribable advantages 9 giv+ full effect to ?is ,hat1 :i* may be worn a little on "o side1 ) a g5tle incl9ation ov] ! eyes1 unless !y are play+ at cross purposes1 9 ! ev5t ( :i* x mu/ be ?r[n q back1 to give effect to _! playful hum\r4 ,,! ,,reg5t4 ,a f9ely-=m$ & mo/ decid$ly elegant ,hat3 is some:at ^u a l>ge scale1 ! cr[n be+ upw>ds ( sev5 in*es high1 mu* yeoman1 ) an excell5tly turn$ & correspond+ brim1 produc+ toge!r a happy union ( ! nice/ proportions3 ,x is worn to mo/ advantage by p]sons ^: height & bulk are above ! common /ature2 n t x is meant to be und]/ood1 t e a?letic or robu/ =m w\ld become a ,reg5t2 on ! contr>y1 !re is n a %ape 9 ! :ole catalogue t dem&s 9 ! we>] a great] %>e ( ext]nal requisites ?an ?is2 ev5 ! v gait is conc]n$1 :i*1 to /rike1 %\ld be /ately & firm1 ?\gh easy1 ea* /ep measur+ exactly half ! l5g? ( ! :ole body--m w\ld become an absolute /ride--& less a m]e /rut2 ?an :i* no?+ c be f>!r remov$ f graceful c>riage3 ,be x und]/ood1 also1 t ! ,reg5t is mo/ becom+ :5 plac$ a little on ! "r side1 b by no means to come )9 half an in* ( ! e>--unless ! latt] %\ld exce$ its fair dim5sions--9 t case x 7 be/ hid altoge!r2 b !n1 to d ?is1 ! ,hat is =c$ beyond ! prop] position1 & :at 0 int5d$ z ornam5t1 becomes ! v rev]se3 ,s circum/anc$1 ! ,noble ,"l1 ! ,%all[1 or ! ,john ,bull1 might be worn to mo/ advantage2 b :5 ,nature has be5 a little att5tive to ! m9ut] p>ts1 z well z ! great] proportions ( manly ext]ior1 ! ,reg5t _c fail to give additional dignity to ! we>]2 creat+ !reby a comb9ation ( elegancies t mu/ r5d] 8 appe>ance absolutely ,,irresi/ible4 ,,! ,,k5t4 ,a v g5tlemanly ,hat1 & al?\gh !re is n ! dignity ( ! ,reg5t ab\t x1 !re is1 not)/&+1 mu* to admire3 ,inde$1 ! scale ( proportions are v simil> 9 bo?2 ! only real diff]5ce exi/+ 9 ! cr[n1 :i* is ab\t "o-half ( an in* l[] ?an ! latt]2 &1 9 ! nautical phraseology1 may n inaptly be t]m$ a ,reg5t cut d[n4 ,x is v s+ul>1 & wor? rem>k+1 t trifl+ z ! ,k5t diff]s f ! ,reg5t 9 actual measurem5t1 ! contr>iety ( effect1 :5 on ! head1 is great & /rik+2 :i* unque/ionably proves1 t a v slight deviation f a giv5 rule w produce results m oppos$ to ea* o!r ?an ! deviation is to ! rule itself4 ,! /yle 9 :i* ?is ,hat %\ld be worn is z foll[s3--if ! head be ( an oval =m1 place x !reon1 z ne> z possible1 9 an horizontal position2 b if a r\nd head 7:i* ( all descriptions is mo/ dread$ by a ca/]mong]7 let ! ,hat be ?r[n a little back1 ) a slight incl9ation on ! side mo/ agreeable1 :i* w t5d to prev5t its assum+ t tr5*]-l appe>ance too common f su* causes4 ,! p]sonal requisites suitable to ! ,k5t1 may be f\nd on ref]r+ to ! ,cob\rg2 ) ?is diff]5ce1 t1 z ! brim is ( l>g] dim5sions1 ! we>]1 if he pleases1 may be six feet high4 ,,! ,,cumb]l&4 ,,?is ,hat1 9 outl9e & symmetry1 is highly prepossess+1 & w always h a numb] ( admir]s4 ,! =mation1 dim5sions1 & /yle ( ! brim1 are simil> to ! ,reg5t & ! ,k5t2 b ! cr[n is tap] & mu* %all[] ?an ei!r4 ,x %\ld be worn z ne>ly horizontal z possible2 &1 if ! we>] be ( ! middle /ature1 or above1 8 bulk or c\nt5ance is immat]ial4 ,,! ,,vis-,a-,,vis4 ,a rem>kably ,,/yli% ,,hat1 possess+ great & peculi> advantages ov] mo/ o!rs1 on :i* acc\nt its claims to patronage are ( ! highe/ ord]4 ,! brim1 be=e z well z beh9d1 be+ br\ght d[n q squ>e1 & almo/ 9 a p]p5dicul> l9e ) ! cr[n itself1 gives ! we>] an opportunity ( obs]v+ ?+s en passant1 by a sort ( side-glance1 )\t be+ se5 s to d2 ?us1 x is well adapt$ = g5tlem5 :o w\ld fa9 indulge 9 ! mo/ exquisite admiration ( ! beaute\s fair3 b by reason ( _! extreme mode/y1 %r9k f ! trial3 ,!re is1 also1 ano!r & a v important consid]ation1 :i* _c be all[$ to pass unnotic$--x is a well-kn[n tru?1 t !re are c]ta9 situations 9 life :]e ! fall+ into is n at all times to be avoid$2 ! result ( :i* is1 to create 9 ! imag9ation1 a p]petual appreh5sion le/ "s villa9\s intrud] %\ld1 9 defiance ( eloqu5ce or incl9ation1 compel ! acceptance ( 8 (ficial or r (fici\s att5dance3 to c\nt]act s dirty a cu/om1 z well z to nip ! sy/em 9 ! v bud1 ?is ,hat is mo/ admirably contriv$--= by a simple elevation ( ! h9d] "p1 ! front may be br\ght s f> ov] ! face1 z to =m a complete %ade = ! c\nt5ance4 ,"h !n is ! atta9m5t ( two great ends--mode/y enc\rag$1 & imp]t95ce re/ra9$4 ,la/ly1 & n ! lea/ ( its useful purposes is1 t %\ld ! introduction ( ! ,vis-a-,vis become g5]al1 ^? novel & graceful evolutions ( ! body1 d5om9at$ ! b5d1 ! flutt]1 & ! poke1 may be p]=m$ 9 a mu* small] space ?an usual1 & )\t ! lea/ dang] to ! eyes1 :i* is greatly to be fe>$1 :5 ! di/+ui%$ vot>ies1 9 ! eag] p]=mance ( ^! newly-import$ civilities1 are br\ght too abruptly face to face4 ,al?\gh !re is mu* ( ! da% 9 ?is ,hat1 x has1 not)/&+1 a sort ( sombre appe>ance1 :i* calls on ! we>] = a figure & c\nt5ance to correspond2 x is !re=e1 if ornam5tally consid]$1 recomm5d$ to su* only1 ^: complexion is ( a d>ki% hue1 visage long1 n ov] bulky 9 p]son1 & above ! middle size2 b1 if usefully consid]$1 all ! nic] di/9ctions mu/ yield to imp]i\s necessity4 ,,! ,,pet]%am4 ,a connoisseur exam9+ a f9e pa9t+1 0 ask$ by a bye-/&]1 :i* "p he mo/ admir$2 8 answ] 01 8no "p40 8,:at60 obs]v$ ! o!r1 8is x possible t s highly tal5t$ a production z ?is is ackn[l$g$ to be1 c h no m]its 9 y\r e/imation80 ,to :i* ! connoisseur repli$--8,sir1 a "w s ma/]ly 9 execution--s /rik+ 9 effect--s p]fect 9 all its p>ts1 _c be truly e/imat$ b z a :ole40 ,"h1 !n1 ! picture is ! ,pet]%am--! selection ( beauties !re91 ! difficulty3 ,to get rid ( :i*1 be x suffici5t to /ate1 t ! prom95t feature 9 ?is ,hat is elegance ( /yle1 /rongly visible 9 all its p>ts1 & ea* "p 9 unison ) ! :ole2 :i* = toni% & exquisite da% has no competitor4 ,x w be se51 f :at is "h /at$1 t1 mu* z ?is ,hat is capable ( transfus+ its graces to ! we>] 7& :o c d\bt x71 "s little att5tion to p]sonal requisites is necess>y--:i*1 9 /ature1 %\ld be ov] five feet sev51 & n too lu/y2 c\nt5ance or complexion is ( little consequ5ce2 b ! visage %\ld be oval1 su* correspond+ uncommonly well ) ! f9e ar*$ brim1 :i* =ms ne>ly two-fif?s ( a circle2 &1 :5 ta/efully plac$ on ! head1 ) a slight incl9ation ov] ! face1 s z to br+ ! =e po9t on a l9e ) ! tip ( ! nose1 su* w be ! result1 t1 :atev] difficulty may att5d a j description ( its a/oni%+ effects1 ! advantages to a we>] w mo/ assur$ly be ,,felt4 ,,! ,,tilbury4 ,,?is ,hat is bold 9 appe>ance1 b full ( "*3 ,inde$1 !re is s mu* ( ! :ip 9 its g5]al outl9e1 t x c nev]1 ) propriety1 be worn b z a driv+ ,hat4 ,,! ,,bang-,,up4 ,,:at a pleas+ reflection x is1 all ?+s consid]$1 t ne> z ! human =m may approa* to p]fection1 /ill t =m is capable ( be+ improv$ by +5uity2 b !n1 ! difficulty is to decide on :at really are improvem5ts3 = in/ance1 "s w admire a f9e slope 9 ! coat skirts1 tap]+ (f l ! tail ( a goose2 "s 7:e!r or no to cat* ! mann]s ( a hoyd57 w put on ! frock2 o!rs1 aga91 admire ! pantaloon2 & _m give a decid$ pref]5ce to inexpressibles4 ,b ! ,bang-up1 z a ,hat1 is ! v ma/]-piece ( inv5tive ta/e1 :]e9 all admiration mu/ ( necessity c5tre1 hav+ n only 9 its g5]al appe>ance a bold & manly front1 b a pleas+ h>mony ( p>ts1 all t5d+ to produce an agreeable union ( ta/e & utility2 :o !n w\ld m\nt ! 8box0 )\t be+ decorat$ ) its *iefe/ ornam5t8 ,,! ,,cl]icus4 ,a v ,,contemplative1 ,,s$ate1 ,,pi\s-,,look+ ,,hat1 mu* worn by ,police-,(fic]s1 ,quack-,doctors1 & ,cl]gym52 ?is1 x may be said1 is a /range assemblage ( *>act]s to br+ "u "o head1 & "s may hold ! association to be a reflection on ! latt]1 :5 9 tru? ! v opposite is int5d$2 9 pro( ( :i* x is only necess>y to obs]ve t1 :]e ! atta9m5t ( an object dep5ds on outw>d %[1 su* contrivances w be resort$ to z are be/ calculat$ to secure ! object 9 view2 & ! v assumption ( ! habit "h spok5 ( by ! 8traps0 & 8quacks0 ( ! day1 is evid5ce ( ! habit itself be+ 9 ! highe/ possible e/imation4 ,if tak5 9 an ornam5tal po9t ( view1 x w\ld be no easy task to decide on its m]its2 b if usefully consid]$1 ! conclusion is pla9 & easy4 ,x is an admitt$ fact1 t an idea ( dignity _c embody itself ) little ?+s1 h5ce ! cu/om ( we>+ l>ge wigs1 = su* d\btless ^! ,hats 7 orig9ally int5d$1 & = ?is reason1 ! h9d] "p be+ drawn up ) loops 9 two places1 no p]uke1 h[ev] l>ge its dim5sions1 c receive ! lea/ injury2 9 %ort1 x may be worn "u ?is ,hat ) z little discomfiture to ! intricate friz z ?\gh x 7 absolutely on ! v block itself3 "h !n is produc$ :at may be t]m$ a happy union ( wisdom & piety1 inasmu* z x is all[$1 :5 speak+ ( high legal *>act]s1 t ! wisdom is 9 ! wig1 & by ! same rule 7:5 ,cl]icus is worn by a ,div9e7 ! piety mu/ be 9 ! ,hat4 ,! /yle ( putt+ on w greatly dep5d on ! size ( ! p]uke1 )\t :i* x %\ld nev] be worn1 p>ticul>ly if ! hair be lank & black4 ,,! ,,bon-,,ton4 ,,9 po9t ( =m & f9e proportions1 ?is ,hat _c fail to rank high 9 g5]al e/imation4 ,its appe>ance v mu* resembles ! ,well+ton1 or r x is betwe5 ! ,well+ton & ! ,m>quis2 &1 l ! latt]1 !re is t becom+ /yle1 :i* n only h>monizes1 b gives a peculi> grace to ! majority ( its we>]s4 ,,! ,,b>onet4 ,,?is is a ,hat highly respectable 9 appe>ance1 & well suit$ to g5tlem5 9 ! decl9e ( life2 b z t is a /ate to :i* few w ackn[l$ge :ile !re is a capability ( hobbl+ )\t a crut*1 some?+ def9ite _h bett] be /at$ by giv+ ! precise age2--take x !n at fifty1 :i* w put all d\bts at re/4 ,! reason = fix+ on ! ,b>onet1 z suitable to ^? 9 decl9+ ye>s1 is its grave1 reflect+1 me?odical ca/1 su* z w\ld seem to say ( ! we>]--8,"h is "o t possesses a s]5ity ( m9d1 an easy indiff]5ce ( disposition1 a tranquillity ( ?\ght1 :i* w\ld quietly dis5tangle itself f ! va91 %ad[y1 fleet+ desires ( ?is life1 & leave no regret beh9d40 ,!re are _m o!r recomm5datory prop]ties 9 ?is ,hat1 b ^? already p>ticul>iz$ are ! mo/ valuable2 yes1 valuable1--= x is a well-kn[n fact1 t mank9d are (t5 made up ( contrivance1 t is1 !y frequ5tly give to appe>ance ! %ape ( reality2--& h[ev] /range ! doctr9e may at fir/ appe>1 x is nev]!less true1 t ! cu/om is (t5 att5d$ ) v b5eficial results1 inasmu* z by endeav\r+ to ma9ta9 an app>5t consi/5cy betwe5 habit & action1 ! propriety ( do+ "r becomes s /rongly impress$ on ! m9d1 t ! villa9y ( a bad practice is se5 9 its wor/ de=mity1 & consci5ce1 ! un]r+ monitor ( ! m9d1 rides triumphant ov] all4 ,^! are recomm5dations ( no ord9>y nature1 & su* t w no d\bt cause mu* inquiry aft] ! ,b>onet4 ,z to gr[? or c\nt5ance1 !re is an old say+1 t 8begg>s %\ld n be *oos]s20 & ! we>]1 if he becomes s f necessity1 w feel ! propriety ( leav+ *oice out ( ! "q4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,illu/ration3 ,engrav$ = ,lloyd's treatise on ,hats4 ,john ,bull4 ,! ,cob\rg4 ,! ,b>on4 ,cl]icus4 ,! ,new ,da%4 ,! ,%all[4 ,! ,cumb]l&4 ,! ,viz-a-viz4 ,! ,ecc5tric4 ,! ,well+ton4 ,a ,noble ,"l4 ,! ,t&em4 ,! ,m>quis4 ,! ,tally-ho4 ,! ,bang-up4 ,b>onet4 ,! ,p>is ,beau4 ,! ,bon ,ton4 ,a bit ( ,blood4 ,! ,jolliffe4 ,! ,d&y4 ,! ,reg5t4 ,! ,irresi/ible4 ,! ,pet]%am4 ,design$ by ,r4 ,lloyd1 ,hat ,mak]1 ,no4 #ib1 ,newgate-,/reet4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,! ,,jolliffe4 ,a m9d :i* is /ruck1 ?r\gh ! m$ium ( sight1 ) impressions ( sublimity1 w h ^? impressions /r5g!n$ 9 proportion z ! magnitude ( ! object view$ is ! great]1 & z all ?+s are b great or small comp>atively1 x foll[s1 ( c\rse1 t bodies ( ! same class1 description1 or aff9ity1 :i* are less ?an ! l>ge/1 mu/ suff]1 :5 br\ght into ! scale ( comp>ison ) _! sup]iors3 agreeably to ^! rules1 ! ,,jolliffe1 ^: dim5sions exce$ all o!rs1 comes =w>d ) /rong claims to patronage1 = besides ! importance ) :i* x nev] fails to /rike e behold]1 x is sure to convey a correspond+ importance to ! ,,we>]4 ,"h !n are consid]ations :i* %\ld n be trifl$ )1 p>ticul>ly z ! assumption ( a ?+ is (t5 tak5 = ! ?+ itself--nay1 are !re n situations 9 life :]e appe>ances become s vitally important t x w\ld be little %ort ( crim9ality n to put !m on8 & :]e ! atta9m5t ( great ends may be insur$ by no?+ m ?an a simple att5tion to ! =mation ( a ,hat1 x w\ld be worse ?an folly to neglect ! means4 ,rightly tak51 :at a multiplicity ( p]sons might be b5efitt$ by ! above h9ts2 ,pr9ces1 ,pe]s1 & ,pl5ipot5ti>ies2 ,s5ators1 ,/ate-m9i/]s1 or ,trad+ ,politicians2--all--all may f9d _! int]e/ 9 ! adoption ( ! ,jolliffe2 & t ^! great p]sonages may n plead ignorance z to ! mann] 9 :i* x %\ld be worn ) ! be/ effect1 "h foll[ ! prop] in/ructions4 ,if a ,,pr9ce1 let x be lightly plac$ on ! head1 & a little aside1 :i* bespeaks a sort ( *e]ful approv+ confid5ce 9 "o's own actions4--,if a ,,pe]1 x %\ld be worn 9 a firm horizontal position1 j cov]+ half ! =ehead2 :i* gives ! appe>ance ( a wise & /eady det]m9ation :]e great que/ions are agitat$1 p>ticul>ly :5 !y become self int]e/+4--,if an ,,ambassador1 x may be ?r[n a little back1 incl9+ some:at aside2 su* position indicat+ a bold & c>eless indiff]5ce to all ar\nd1 :i* w be tak5 = grant$ t su* c\ld n arise f any o!r cause ?an a total disreg>d = ! result ( 8 mission2 a practice1 al?\gh n (t5 hit on1 may h _m advantages4 ,z to ! ?ree latt] *>act]s1 _! pursuits hav+ all ! same end--,,popul>ity--let !m consult ! /yle ( ! ,pr9ce1 & rememb] t1 9 :omsoev] confid5ce has cr$it1 popul>ity is sure to foll[4 -------------- ,z ! ,jolliffe is n likely to be worn unless = special purposes1 to give an idea :o w\ld be/ become x is unnecess>y4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,! ,,f\r-,,9-,,h&4 ,a mod]n-/yl$ :ip1 ,h[e'er he may dip ,into fa%ion's wide vortex 8 p9ions1 ,to make a bold /&1 ,,lloyd',s prime ,f\r-9-,h& ,mu/ cov] 8 upp] dom9ions4 ,= ease1 =m1 & set1 ,! l nev] yet ,0 se51 at lea/ s run op9ions2 ,!n ye f\r-9-h& :ips1 ,9 y\r j>vey-l trips ,take c>e ( y\r upp] dom9ions4 ,,dim5sions4 ,x measures1 by rule1 ,ne> ?ree in*es full ,9 ! brim1 ) a cr[n wide at top2 ,nor is !re a face ,b :at x w grace1 ,if pur*as$ at ,,lloyd',s fancy %op4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,a ,,bit ,,( ,,blood4 ,! t]m itself naturally implies a some?+ ^u a small scale1 :i* is ! fact1 & al?\gh !re is no?+ ( t impos+ dignity ( /yle 9 ! above ,hat1 :i* *>act]izes ! ,reg5t1 ! ,pet]%am1 c4 !re is a lively1 animat$1 & vigor\s fire 9 all its features1 t w n all[ ( any fall+ (f 9 ! g5]al comp>ison4 ,to give a complete catalogue ( ! _m ,,virtues belong+ to a bit ( blood1 w\ld exce$ ! allott$ limits2 b x _c be amiss to detail a few ( ! m prom95t1 t all1 ^: necessities may be> to ! po9t1 %\ld be b5efitt$ by ! we>+3 ,fir/ !n1 x is admirably calculat$ = ^? :o are ab\t to ask favors1 su* be+ m readily grant$ :5 !y seem ! less want$1 & no "o c\ld suppose t ! saucy animation :i* w\ld be s /rongly visible "u ?is ,hat c\ld make ! application f ,,necessity4 ,secondly1 x w be ( s+ul> advantage to eld]ly g5tlem5 9 pursuit ( "y wives1 :o n9e times 9 t5 decide on ! *oice ( a man f ! cock--( 8 ,hat4 ,?irdly1 7n t !re is mu* ne$ ( x = su* a purpose n[-a-days7 its advantages = ^? t are torm5t$ ) dunns are incalculable1 =1 by be+ plac$ pretty firm on ! head1 incl9+ r to "o side1 at ! same "t assum+ a %>p erect position ( ! body1 a /]n direction ( ! eye1 & arms a-kimbo1 ! devil himself1 9 ! %ape ( a cr$itor1 w\ld h>dly haz>d ! ,,repetition ,,( ,a ,,visit4 ,n4 ,b4 ,no s]vice to g5tlem5 ( ! le>n$ pr(ession4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,! ,,process ,,( ,,hat-,,mak+ ,,expla9$1 ,,) ,,prefatory ,,rem>ks1 c4 c4 ------- ,,turks are said to assign z a reason = n we>+ ,hats1 t !y are put toge!r by wit*craft4 ,!re is c]ta9ly a great deal ( +5uity 9 ! practice1 & "s effects produc$ ^: causes are z yet unexpla9$3 b1 ) all due def]5ce to ^! turban g5tlem51 x is presum$ t !y h objections beyond :at is above /at$1 "s ( :i* are z foll[s3--,fir/1 _! c\ntry is de/itute ( ! mo/ ess5tial mat]ial--,,fur4 ,second1 ! climate be+ extremely sultry1 /oves1 irons1 & scald+ wat] are n likely to become fav\rites4 ,?irdly1 be+ compell$ by _! religion to keep _! heads close %av$1 a ,hat1 above all human inv5tions1 w\ld be ! mo/ ridicul\s cov]+ !y c\ld adopt4 ,!re are _m op9ions z to ! "t ,hats 7 fir/ inv5t$1 &1 v probably1 all equally errone\s4 ,"s c>ry ! date z f> back z ! f\ndation ( ,*ri/ianity1 attribut+ ! m]it to ,/4 ,luke1 ( :om x is said1 t he1 hav+ t5d] feet1 put a lay] ( hair or fur betwe5 !m & 8 s&als1 9 :i* situation friction & moi/ure caus$ su* an int]weav+ ( p>ticles1 t ! :ole became /rongly unit$1 or 7te*nically call$7 ,,felt$4 ,:e!r ! /ory1 z appli$ to ,luke1 be true or false1 is immat]ial2 b t su* did happ5 ) "s "o1 is v likely2 nor is x at all unlikely1 b t an occurr5ce ( ?is k9d did really give ! fir/ idea ( ,hat-mak+4 ,hav+ rem>k$ ?us mu*1 ,i %all next proce$ to /ate1 :at is n ! less true ?an surpris+1 :i* is1 t ( ! v>i\s bran*es ( manufacture :i* ?is c\ntry is s highly di/+ui%$ =1 none are less und]/ood ?an ,hat-mak+2 nay1 !re is n "o p]son 9 fifty :o1 if he 7 ask$ ! "q1 c\ld tell :e!r a ,hat 0 or 0 n a wov5 sub/ance2 nor is !re "o 9 #ejj b :at suppose t ! sk9 ( a h>e or rabbit is work$ ) ! fur atta*$ to x1 z 9 ! natural /ate2 &1 to =m a correct judgm5t ( ! ext]nal mat]ial1 :5 manufactur$1 :e!r x be hair1 wool1 or beav]1 al?\gh _m pret5d1 none are really compet5t b ^? exp]i5c$ 9 ! trade4 ,to %[ ! absurd notions "s ent]ta9 on ?is matt]1 ,i /ate z a fact1 t ,i d n "k a manufactur] or sell] 9 ! trade b :at has be5 appli$ to1 by "s "o or o!r1 to h a ,beav] ,hat made f a h>e's sk94 ,nay1 ,i rememb] once (f5d+ a v good cu/om]1 & a man n want+ = s5se ei!r1 by an involunt>y bur/ ( laught]1 on 8 pres5t+ ! sk9 ( a ,fr5* lap-dog = ! v same purpose4 ,x is no uncommon ?+ = p]sons :o are on pretty good t]ms ) _! capabilities to give op9ions z to ! m]its or dem]its ( a ,hat2 :i* op9ions are z opposite to ! true /ate ( ! case z ! sun's rays to a /ate ( d>kness4 ,i %all give an in/ance1 al?\gh a trifl+ "o1 ( a v common error among p]sons :o suppose !mselves to h a k ( ! subject1 :i* is ?is1 if ! pick] has n a v good eye1 "s ( ! l>g] hairs w be left 9 ! ,hat1 & consequ5tly ! mo/ visible2 ^! are directly t]m$ 8grey hairs10 :5 ! tru? is1 t !y are ! blacke/ 9 ! :ole composition2 b be+ ?ick] ?an ! g5]al mass1 !y receive a great] portion ( light1 :i* is mi/ak5 = a grey col\r3 an easy me?od ( prov+ ! fact is to pull "o ( ^! grey hairs f ! ,hat1 & place x on a piece ( :ite pap]1 ! contra/ w decide ! "q4 ,aga91 :atev] produces a glut9ization ( ! ,,nap1 is said to be ! effect ( ! /iff5+2 ?is is n true 9 e case1 = x is frequ5tly ow+ to improp] managem5t 9 plac+ ! ,hat1 :5 wet1 be=e a l>ge fire1 :i* %\ld nev] be done2 ! bett] way is1 if v wet1 to hang x up )\t bru%+ or wip+1 & :5 dry x is easily put to rights1 by g5tly pass+ ov] a clo!s bru%3 if only slightly wet1 wipe x ) a h&k]*ief1 &1 :5 dry1 x w bru% clean4 ,b ! great fault ) mo/ p]sons is to put on _! ,hats1 day aft] day1 9 ! same dirty /ate z :5 tak5 (f at night2 f :i* x is natural to inf]1 t !re mu/ be a va/ accumulation ( dirt2 x is ?is dirt1 :5 expos$ to ! ra91 t =ms a sort ( cem5t1 or pa/e1 hav+ all ! appe>ance ( :at is commonly call$ 8gum40 ,ano!r pro( ( errone\s judgm5t--,pr(use p]spiration ( ! head is :at _m are subject to2 by reason ( :i*1 f ! frequ5cy ( we>+1 & ! porosity ( ! ,hat1 !re is a cont9ual absorption ( moi/ure go+ on until x becomes completely saturat$1 p>ticul>ly 9 front1 ! consequ5ce is1 t ! nap lies buri$ 9 a greasy matt]1 :i* matt] is also1 b v inappropriately t]m$ gum or /iff5+1 :5 9 po9t ( fact x is nei!r1 = ! v same effect w\ld1 "u ! l circum/ances1 be produc$1 & 9 mu* less "t1 if ! ,hat 7 n /iff5$ at all4 ,! be/ rem$y = ?is is a piece ( ?9 flannel "u ! lea!r1 & t frequ5tly *ang$4 ,!re is no?+ s detrim5tal to a ,hat z a sev]e exposure to ra9 on ! fir/1 second1 or ev5 ?ird "t ( we>+2 = ?is reason1 ! mat]ials :]e) x is compos$ are 9 a mann] q gre51 & require season+2 to effect :i* x %\ld be frequ5tly put on 9 dry wea!r4 ,i h always f\nd t a ,hat1 con/antly worn = five or six weeks )\t be+ wet1 und]w5t e sort ( h>d%ip aft]w>ds ) little or no injury1 reta9+ at ! same "t its beauty--=m--& we>+ ?ree times long] ?an x o!rwise w\ld h done4 ,x may be ask$1 :y n1 to prev5t accid5ts1 r5d] ! ,hat wat]-pro(8 t is1 imp]vi\s to ! action ( ei!r atmosph]e or ra94 ,! ?+ is easy en\gh1 ,i admit2 b :]e !re is a *oice ( only two evils1 x is always be/ to select ! lea/4 ,we all "k 7or %\ld "k7 t if a man 7 to enclose himself1 arms1 legs1 & body1 9 :at is call$ an oil-sk9 dress1 & t drawn close r\nd ! neck1 ! :ole tightly fitt$ to e "p ( 8 p]son z a ,hat is to ! head1 ! mo/ unpleasant consequ5ces w\ld ensue2 ! cause :y is obvi\sly ?is1 ! exhalations ( ! body1 p>ticul>ly 9 a /ate ( ex]tion1 w\ld :5 s enclos$1 be ei!r prev5t$ f fly+ (f1 z nature requires1 or o!rwise *eck$ altoge!r2 precisely s ) ! head if ! porosity ( ! ,hat 0 de/roy$1 :i* x mu/ be to resi/ effectually ! action ( wat]4 ,?is d$uction mu/ be s cle> & self-evid5t t fur!r reason+ is unnecess>y4 ,ano!r great objection aga9/ wat]-pro( ,hats is1 t ! +r$i5ts made use ( = su* purposes1 :5 expos$ to ! sun's heat1 are s act$ ^u z to cause a decomposition ( ! col\r1 & n9e times 9 t51 ! ,hat1 be=e x is half worn out1 becomes any ?+ b :at x 0 meant to be4 ,x is a/oni%+ to he> ! numb] ( qualifications a ,hat is said to h1 & ea* z opposite to ! o!r z x is possible = any two ?+s to be2 "s1 = in/ance1 ma9ta9 t x _c be good unless x is light1 o!rs aga9 w decid$ly condemn x = be+ s1 insi/+ t ! *ief recomm5dation is its be+ firm & /\t4 ,all t is requisite to be obs]v$ on ?is1 is t weight has no m to d ) ! quality ( a ,hat1 ?an ! situation ( prime m9i/] has to d ) ! cramm+ ( turkies4 ,a v inf]ior ,hat may be made equally light ) ! mo/ sup]ior1 & 9 bo? cases ! co/ ( manufacture w be less ?an if !y 7 made /\t4 ,! l5g? ( ! beav] too is ano!r po9t on :i* ! diff]5ce ( op9ion is (t5 exp]i5c$2 _m are = v %ort naps1 decl>+ all o!rs to be outrage\sly vulg>2 b ! majority ( we>]s seem be/ pleas$ ) long naps1 :i* always take & reta9 ! be/ black1 :ile1 on ! contr>y ^? t are v %ort nev] d4 ,a m$ium betwe5 ! two is ! mo/ pref]able4 ,hav+ /at$ ?us mu*1 ,i %all next proce$ to expla9 9 :at way a f9e ,hat is made1 describ+ z accurately z possible ! v>i\s processes x und]goes1 z also ! mat]ials ) :i* x is compos$1 ! proportions ( ea* z well z ! quantity ( "w a man is capable ( do+1 :e!r mak] or f9i%]1 9 a week1 ! am\nt ( wages1 toge!r ) "s ( ! curi\s regulations1 by-laws1 c4 c4 c4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 z ,i %all h occasion to m5tion a few ( ! implem5ts by "n1 a %ort description ( !m may n be amiss4 ,!re is ! ,,b[1 :i* 9 =m is n unlike :at is us$ = play+ on a d\ble bass1 b 9 l5g? & ?ickness is equal to a con/able's /aff2 !re is a bridge at ea* end1 f "o to ! o!r ( :i* is tightly /rung a /\t l9e ( catgut4 ,! ,,hurdle is situate 9 :at is call$ ! b[ g>ret1 & is a sort ( table1 on :i* ! fur is b[$1 or mix$1 hav+ ! f>!r end & sides enclos$ to prev5t ! mat]ial f be+ bl[n away4 ,! ,,batt]y is some:at l ! hopp] ( a mill1 9 ?is is conta9$ ! hot liquor1 & is mo/ly con/ruct$ = eight m51 r\nd :i* !y /& :5 mak+2 ! l[] "p is lead1 ! upp] or work+ "p mahogany4 ,all batt]ies are =m$ into divisions call$ ,,planks1 "o ( :i* is allott$ to ea* man4 ,!re are _m o!r little ?+s us$ by mak]s1 b ^! ?ree are all t des]ve p>ticul> notice4 ,! fir/ ?+ a mak] looks = 9 ! morn+ is ! ,,fur1 or raw mat]ial1 :i* is furni%$ to him by weight2 ! quantity be+ m or less1 accord+ to ! sub/ance ( ! ,hat requir$1 & is 9 two p>cels1 "o ( :i* conta9s ! ,,beav]1 or napp+2 ! o!r ! ,,body 7a proportionate scale ( bo? w be se5 h]eaft]74 ,?us provid$ he takes x to ! ,,b[ ,,g>ret2 ! mat]ials = ! body are fir/ plac$ on ! hurdle1 & ! b[ be+ hung at ! c5tre = support1 is held 9 ! left h& horizontally1 s t ! catgut may come 9 contact ) ! fur2 9 ! "r h& is plac$ a small piece ( /ick1 ) a nut at ! end1 & 9 ?is position ! "w beg9s aft] ! foll[+ mann]4 ,! catgut ( ! b[ 7be+ fir/ plac$ 9 ! mid/ ( ! fur7 is pull$ or /ruck ) ! knott$ /ick1 :i* produces1 f a quick repetition ( ! /roke1 a cont9u$ vibration1 ?is vibration x is t causes a sep>ation or flitt+ ( ! fur1 at ! same "t mix+ & cleans+ x4 ,?is op]ation is cont9u$ until su* ends are fully atta9$4 ,x is next divid$ into halves1 "o ( :i* is laid aside1 & ! o!r aga9 b[$ ov]4 ,9 ?is second op]ation ! workman contrives1 p>tly by b[+1 & p>tly by a slight wick] frame1 to br+ ! mat]ial into an oblong =m1 & equal 9 size to a l>ge %eet ( c>tridge pap]2 ?is is call$ a ,,bat1 & :5 done x is g5tly press$ d[n by ! wick]1 aft] :i* a damp l95 clo? is laid all ov]1 & on ?is aga9 is plac$ a ?ick piece ( dry ,,horse ,,hide2 ! workman n[ beg9s to press h>d on ! hide = ab\t five m9utes2 9 ! do+ ?is ! fur adh]es close to ! damp clo?1 into :i* x is d\bl$ up1 & once m und]goes ! pressure ( ! h&4 ,"u ?is op]ation 7:i* is call$ ,,bason+7 ! bat becomes consolidat$1 & may be ?r[n1 :5 tak5 out ( ! clo?1 f "o end ( ! g>ret to ! o!r )\t injury4 ,! second half is next b[$1 =m$ into a bat1 & bason$ z ! fir/4 ,?is half rema9s on ! hurdle1 & a piece ( pap]1 some:at conical1 is plac$ on x1 ov] :i*1 & agreeable to ! %ape1 ! sides ( ! bat are d\bl$4 ,"h !n is =m$ "o half ( ! body1 ?is is laid aside1 & ! fir/ bat is !n put flat on ! hurdle on :i* ! "o previ\sly d\bl$ is plac$ ) its op5 "p d[nw>ds2 ! l[] bat be+ transv]sely d\bl$ ov] ! top hat1 =ms a sort ( conical1 or h>lequ9's cap2 9 ?is /ate x is once m put into ! damp clo?1 :]e x receives ano!r h>d5+ = ! purpose ( unit+ or knitt+ bo? bats toge!r2 aft] ?is x is fold$ into ! compass ( two h&s1 ready = ! plank4 ,! next ?+ is ! beav]1 or cov]+1 :i* is b[$ 9 =m to correspond ) ! body1 b has no?+ to d ) x 9 ?is /age4 ,matt]s be+ complet$ ?us f>1 ?is is call$ ! fir/ process ( ,hat-mak+4 ,! second comm5ces z foll[s3--,! workman hav+ gone f ! b[ g>ret to ! mak+ %op1 takes 8 /& at ! batt]y1 "u :i* is a ,,fire1 = ! purpose ( heat+ ! liquor2#a into ?is hot liquor ! body is quickly imm]s$1 :]e x rema9s till soak$ ?r\gh2 x is aft]w>ds laid on ! plank to dra9 & cool2 ?is done1 x is unfold$1 g5tly roll$1 turn$ at %ort int]vals 9 e direction1 to prev5t ! sides unit+ toge!r2 & z ! liquor becomes cold & roll$ out1 x is cont9ually suppli$ ) hot & fre%1 by ! spr9kl+ ( a bru%1 :i* is dipp$ 9 ! kettle = t purpose2 "u ?is op]ation1 assi/$ by ! a/r+5cy ( ! vitriol1 ! body %r9ks1 & beg9s to assume a t\gh sub/ance4 ,:5 x has %runk to a c]ta9 size 7say ?ree-fif?s1 if to be d\ble cov]$71 x is laid flat on ! plank1 & ! fir/ coat ( beav]1 z x comes f ! b[1 is laid q ov] x2 ! bru% is n[ dipp$ into ! hot liquor1 ! cont5ts ( :i* is spr9kl$ all ov] ! beav]1 directly aft]w>ds x is g5tly patt$ d[n ) ! hot bru%2 "h ! body is put into a hair-clo?1 roll$ 9 hot liquor1 turn$ inside out1 roll$ aga9 until ! beav]1 is completely work$ into ! body2 :5 ?is is effect$1 x is 9 a fit /ate to receive ! second cov]+1 :i* is put on z ! fir/1 ! work+1 turn+1 patt+1 & roll+ /ill cont9u+ until x is r$uc$ to a fit dim5sion1 ! beav] q clean1 & all toge!r assum+ a closely felt$1 f9e1 solid piece ( workman%ip2 aft] :i* x is imm$iately block$ 9 ?is same liquor1 to ! size want$1 & put into a /ove to dry1 f :5ce x is tak51 & ) a small f9e c>d ! beav] is g5tly rais$2 )\t ?is1 "o half w\ld lie buri$1 & ! beauty lo/4--,"h !n is ! complete ,,process ,,( ,,hat-,,mak+4 ,footnote #a3 ,! liquor1 :i* is always kept up to scald+ heat1 is no?+ m ?an clean s(t wat]1 ) a w9e glass ( vitriol1 & a small quantity ( be] dregs ?r[n 94 ,! fir/ is to %r9k ! body ( ! ,hat 9 work+2 ! o!r to de/roy ! p]nici\s effect ( ! vitriol4 ,x is next s5t to ! ,,dy] f :om x passes to ! ,,f9i%]1 :o1 aft] /iff5+1 block+1 & half f9i%+1 s5ds x to be pick$1 :i* is p]=m$ by a woman1 ^: place x is to pull out ! kemps or ?ick hairs1 )\t injur+ ! beav]1#b al?\gh t is n always accompli%$4 ,f ! pick] x returns to ! f9i%] :o1 by ! ,,iron & velvet cu%ion1 gives x ^? highly brilliant & admir$ beauties t an ,engli% ,hat is s pre-em95tly di/+ui%$ =4 ,! %ap] next takes x 9 h&1 :o is guid$ 9 8 op]ations by ! fancy ( ! we>]1 if bespoke1 :i* is sometimes a little :imsical4 ,aft] %ap+1 x goes to ! trimm]1 f :om x is return$ to ! ,,tipp] ,,(f2 he gets x ready = we>+2 x is !n s5t to its de/9ation1 :5 ! ma/]1 if he is =tunate1 puts ! am\nt into 8 pocket4#c ,footnote #b3 ,x has frequ5tly be5 ask$1 :y n make a ,hat ) beav] only1 ! answ] is1 !re is n suffici5t /am9a or /r5g? 9 x to become a s\nd felt$ sub/ance4 ,x w\ld be worse ?an build+ a brick h\se )\t mort> or "s sort ( cem5t1 to b9d ! :ole toge!r4 ,footnote #c3 ,"s h paym5t be=e-h&1 :i* br+s out ! foll[+ old1 b v fooli% say+1 8!re are b two bad payma/]s1 he :o pays be=eh&1 & he :o nev] pays40 ,h[ ! latt] c be a payma/] requires "s little +5uity to det]m9e4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,! ,,laws ,,& ,,cu/oms ,,( ,,j\rneym5 ,,hatt]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,decoration ,,to ent] fully into ! v>i\s regulations & =ms t ! 8trade0 h1 f "t to "t1 in/itut$ & act$ ^u1 w\ld ( itself fill a volume2 all t c be done !n 9 ?is small "w w be to give ! be/ possible outl9e ( su* matt]s z are mo/ likely to int]e/ ^? :o may wi% = in=mation on ! subject4 ,! mo/ important laws ( ?is trade are ^!3-- ,fir/--,no man %all "w z a mak] or f9i%]1 unless he has s]v$ an appr5tice%ip ( sev5 ye>s to :at is call$ a 8fair ma/]40 ,second--,to be a fair ma/]1 & entitl$1 accord+ to ! rules ( ! trade1 to take an appr5tice1 he mu/ h manufactur$ 8 own ,hats1 sev5 ye>s prior to ! tak+1 or o!rwise h s]v$ a fair sev5 ye>s' appr5tice%ip himself to ! trade4 ,?ird--,:e!r !re be "o1 two1 or m 9 a manufactur+ firm1 t firm are n to h m ?an two appr5tices at "o "t4 ,f\r?--,!re are a numb] ( ma/]s :o d n manufacture _! own 8/uff10 b are employ$ by 8,great ,h\ses10 :o1 al?\gh !y h a "r1 by law1 to take appr5tices1 yet ^? appr5tices1 by reason ( _! ma/]s n work+ _! own mat]ials1 are nev] admitt$ to /& by ! side ( fair m51 on :i* acc\nt !y mu/ ev] cont9ue f\l1 & deb>r$ ( ! usual privileges1 or submit to a second appr5tice%ip4 ,?is is a case t frequ5tly occurs2 inde$ x is no uncommon ?+ to see a man ) a wife & half a doz5 *ildr51 himself ne> ?irty ye>s old1 s]v+ a second appr5tice%ip = a fair "t2 ! h>d%ip ( ?is mu/ be admitt$1 inasmu* z x is puni%+ a man = a fault he nev] committ$4 ,fif?--,a f\l man is "o t has n s]v$ 8 appr5tice%ip agreeably to ! rule ( ! trade1 or has be5 guilty ( "s act detrim5tal to ! suppos$ int]e/s ( ! j\rneym5 9 g5]al4 ,^! are call$ 8,,knob/icks40 ,six?--,a fair man has ! privilege ( :at is call$ 8turns ^u tramp10 t is1 if he _c obta9 "w 9 ! t[n :]e he resides1 or has an incl9ation to travel1 he may j\rney or tramp to ! next2 %\ld any ( ! frat]nity be !re1 & he wi%es to get 8%opp$0 he is 8ask$ =0 by "o 9 t factory1 7no man be+ all[$ to ask = himself71 if unsuccessful1 !re are two night's lodg+ = him1 two pots ( /rong be]1 bread & *eese1 & a %ill+ or two to =w>d him to ! next t[n4 ,! money turn 9 ,london is five %ill+s1 b no man is entitl$ to a second turn 9 "o place1 until aft] ! expiration ( six mon?s f 8 receiv+ ! fir/4 ,sev5?--,if a j\rneyman has1 by 8 own act1 become f\l1 no?+ c absolve him b submitt+ to a f9e1 & ?is is measur$ accord+ to ! (f5ce1 :i*1 9 "s he9\s cases1 su* z 8creep+0 into fav\r ) ! ma/]1 or go+ to "w :5 all ! re/ h /ruck = wages1 is z high z t5 gu9eas4 ,!re are ?ree di/9ct c\rts = ! exam9ation & puni%m5t ( (f5d]s4 ,! fir/1 or ,high ,c\rt ( ,,congress1 is a sort ( g5]al assembly1 compos$ ( ei!r ,mak]s or ,f9i%]s1 j z _! sep>ate int]e/s may be conc]n$2 b on all jo9t que/ions ^! p>ties =m a junction4 ,9 ?is c\rt matt]s ( importance only are discuss$2 z1 = in/ance1 ! advance ( prices1 ! abrogation ( old laws1 & ! mak+ ( new ones1 "u ! op]ation ( :i*1 x sometimes happ5s t bo? m5 & ma/]s1 z well z ! law ( ! l&1 are alike ! victims4 ,! f9es levi$ 9 ?is c\rt are appropriat$ to special & 8,,/rik+0 purposes1 (t5 t5d+ to produce a 8,,comb9ation0 ( int]e/+ effects4 ,! ma/]s too are n :olly exempt f ^! pretty little comb9ations1 :i*1 h[ev]1 d n always realize or c>ry _! int5d$ po9t2 ?is is ow+ 7x is ?\ght7 to ! va/ affection j\rneym5 be> t[>ds _! employ]s2 inde$ s mu* s1 t !y _c be> ! latt] %\ld 8,,l[]0 !mselves4 ,!re is a c\rt bel[ ?is1 :i* is =m$ by tak+ "o or two m5 f ! sev5 ne>e/ %ops4 ,_! sitt+1 if n public1 is sure to be 9 a public-h\se1 presid5t1 ,sir ,john ,b>leycorn4 ,! matt]s *iefly br\ght "h are ^? t relate to ! misconduct ( j\rneym5 t[>ds ea* o!r 9 ! same factory1 & :i* _c be settl$ :]e !y orig9at$4 ,?is is call$ 8,,doz5+10 & _! p[] ( ,,f9e ext5ds to two gu9eas1 :i* is drank 9 good old /\t by ! :ole sev5 %ops2 b z all dry subjects are prohibit$ 9 ?is tribune1 ! ext5t ( f9e greatly dep5ds on ! /ate ( ! wea!r2 s t if x be a sultry summ]'s day1 ! puni%m5t ( an (f5d] is 9 proportion to ! sun's heat4 ,! ?ird & l[e/ c\rt is an assembly ( %op-mates only1 ?is meet+ is call$ a 8,,g>ret ,,mat*10 & may be dem&$ = ! puni%m5t ( an aggressor1 by any aggriev$ man 9 a factory4 ,p[] ( f9e f two to t5 %ill+s4 ,i h be=e /at$ t !re are 9 ?is trade f\l m52 9 po9t ( numb] !y con/itute ab\t "o-six? "p ( ! :ole2 b _! e>n+s1 or price ( lab\r is ! same z ! fair trade4 ,a j\rneyman f9i%] 9 full "w w e>n1 on an av]age1 f ?ree to f\r p\nds a-week2 :ile1 on ! contr>y1 a mak] _c get m ?an fifty %ill+s4 ,?is is a subject ( mu* jeal\sy & discont5t2 nor is x likely to be o!rwise1 unless ! latt] c raise himself to an equality ) ! =m]2 aga9/ ?is !re are _m ob/acles1 "o ( :i* is1 ! increas+ f\l trade1 :o w\ld cont9ue work+1 ev5 ?\gh ! fair m5 _h 8/ruck40 ,ano!r is1 t !y c\ld nev] obta9 ! co-op]ation ( ! f9i%]s1 :o1 be+ amply paid !mselves1 ?9k x be/ to leave well alone4 ,^! are ! pr9cipal regulations :i* gov]n j\rneym5 hatt]s1 :e!r !y h a good or a bad t5d5cy is que/ionable2 !re are _m 9 ! trade :o decid$ly condemn !m1 giv+ z _! reasons1 t !y enc\rage idl5ess1 tippl+1 & endless squabbles4 ,idl5ess--inasmu* z :5 m5 are summon$ to discuss ! mo/ trifl+ matt]s1 ev5 ?\gh ! meet+ be at five o'clock 9 ! morn+1 !y seldom feel dispos$ to return to _! "w t day4 ,tippl+--= ! reason t1 z f9es are mo/ly sp5t 9 dr9k1 ! conviction ( a suppos$ (f5d] is g5]ally ?ir/$ aft]2 b z ! quantum levi$ seldom suffices1 all fur!r supplies = ! rema9d] ( ! day are met by individual subscription4 ,9 ^! cases !re is no %[ ( nigg>dl9ess1 z e succe$+ gallon ( ! 8sp>kl+ entire10 is b an int]nal mess5g]1 be>+ ! glad tid+s ( ano!r to come4 ,squabbles1 because x is natural1 :5 ! desire = a ?+ is once creat$1 & ! gratification ( t desire 7:]e no?+ ( crim9ality atta*es7 c be indulg$1 by hav+ rec\rse to a little contrivance1 t ! opportunity ( s do+ %\ld be m frequ5tly made1 ?an suff]$ to approa* accid5tally2 :i* w acc\nt = ! trifl+ magnitudes t are all[$ to agitate %ops & factories 9 g5]al4 ,! argum5ts 9 fav\r ( ^! laws are1 t )\t !m1 appr5tices w\ld be c>eless 9 s]v+ out _! "t1 ! trade ov]-run ) bad workm51 hats greatly det]iorat$ 9 ! manufacture1 ! excell5ce ( :i* is _! *ief recomm5dation 9 a =eign m>ket1 & ! sure/ gu>antee ( ! ma/]'s pr(its at home4 ,hav+ giv5 ! cont5d+ op9ions1 9 ref]5ce to ! laws ( ?is trade1 ,i %all say a ^w or two conc]n+ ! %ape1 & mann] ( plac+ a hat on ! head4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,on ,,! ,,%ape ,,& ,,/yle ,,( ,,we>+ ,a ,,hat4 ,,!re is no "p ( a man's dress t makes or m>s 8 appe>ance s mu* z 8 hat2 n t x is its /rik+ beauty :5 new1 or a want ( x :5 old1 t is mo/ mat]ially conc]n$ 9 produc+ ei!r ( ! above effects2 ! gr& po9t is ! ,,=m1 & ! position :i* x is made to assume on ! head2 yet h[ few !re are :o give ! lea/ att5tion to ei!r1 except inde$ milit>y m51 & !y 9 g5]al are uncommonly ta/y1 af=d+ ! be/ example ( ! precise /yle 9 :i* a hat %\ld be worn4 ,x is no less s+ul> ?an true1 t ! same hat1 by be+ plac$ on ! head 9 diff]5t positions1 w give1 9 appe>ance1 z _m di/9ct *>act]s to ! same p]son z ! numb] ( ^? positions am\nt to4 ,! mo/ /rik+ are z foll[s3--sull5ness--indol5ce--gravity1 & good hum\r$ impud5ce4 ,to give ! fir/1 draw ! brim ( ! hat s f> ov] ! eyes t !y %all be q conceal$4 ,! second is produc$ by ! hat be+ ?r[n q back4 ,! ?ird by a prim horizontal set1 cov]+ equally all p>ts ( ! head2 & ! f\r? w n be easily mi/ak5 :]ev] an extravagant cock on ei!r side is br\ght full into view4 ,^! are und\bt$ly all extreme habits1 & seldom pu%$ to ! ext5t "h describ$2 yet a slight incl9ation to ei!r position may1 "u circum/ances1 h a v good effect4 ,!re is ano!r bad cu/om t ought to be notic$1 :i* ,i %all d by fir/ obs]v+1 t a hat 0 int5d$ solely to keep ! head dry--,,on :i* x %\ld be worn2 b _m seem to diff] f ?is op9ion1 us+ x z a sort ( ,,night-,,cap :]e9 is ?ru/ head1 e>s1 & all4 ,?is is a mo/ slov5ly practice1 z well z a dang]\s "o1 inasmu* z x t5ds to keep ! head 9 a cont9ual & =c$ /ate ( p]spiration1 r5d]+ a liability to 8take cold10 e "t ! hat is remov$4 ,yet ev5 ?is habit is n s bad z /ick+ ! hat on ! back ( ! head1 :i*1 ( all o!rs1 is ! mo/ g5]al1 & c>ries ) x ! greate/ impropriety1 because su* a position n only de/roys ! %ape1 b by lodg+ on ! coat coll>1 ! h9d "p1 f friction1 becomes greasy1 & ! b9d+ is always 9 a /ate ( ragg$ness2 add$ to ^! disadvantages1 a mo/ ridicul\s effect is produc$ by ! practice1 t is1 ! head 9 appe>ance is conv]t$ into a sort ( peg1 ,,aga9/ :i* ! hat seems to hang1 in/ead ( be+ plac$ ^u4 ,a man :o indulges 9 s bad a cu/om1 %\ld at lea/ pres]ve a consi/5cy 9 8 dress by walk+ 8slip %o$10 bree*es knees op51 & )\t braces1 /ock+s d[n1 wai/coat unbutton$1 cravat half ti$1 "o arm only 9 8 coat sleeve1 & at lea/ a six mon?s' uncomb$ crop ( hair ab\t 8 p]icranium2 "h he w\ld be ( a piece2 & grotesque z su* a figure mu/ appe>1 by a g5]al adoption ( ^! 8captivat+ neglig5cies10 !re is no great] inconsi/5cy 9 ! :ole catalogue ?an t ( we>+ a hat on ! back "p ( ! head4 ,z to ! =m ( a hat1 & :at is be/ = ?is face or t p]son1 !re is m 9 x ?an :at is g5]ally suppos$1 & a great deal might be said on ! subject2 b to talk ( a /&>d fa%ion is absurd 9 ! extreme1 9 pro( ( :i* x ne$ only be obs]v$1 t if v l>ge hats 7 adopt$1 a ?9 man ( five feet high1 w\ld1 by ! we>+1 become z complete a c>icature1 z a tw5ty /one man ( six feet w\ld by we>+ a v small "o4 ,! be/ fa%ion a man c foll[ 9 a hat is t :i* be/ becomes him1 & v>i\s z heads1 faces1 & p]sons may be1 all ?+s are n[ accompli%$ 7s f> z a hat is conc]n$7 t c ei!r fit ! "o or ornam5t ! o!r1 ,by ! ,head's s9c]e fri5d1 & well-wi%]1 ,r4 ,l4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,furs us$ 9 a ,hat ( f9e quality1 accord+ to ! pres5t improv$ sy/em ( mak+1 _! proportions1 value1 co/ ( manufacture1 c4 c4 ,,= ,,! ,,body4 s4 d4 p] oz4 s4 d4 #d oz4 ( season$ coney wool1 #a #j 44 #d #j oz4 r$ wool #b #d 44 #a #b oz4 ( silk #j #i 44 #j #d ,,= ,,! ,,cov]+4 s4 d4 p] oz4 s4 d4 #a oz4 ( prime season$ beav] #h #fd 44 #h #f ,j\rneyman's wages = mak+#e #c #f ,dye+ #j #h ,/iff5+1 f9i%+1 & pick+ #a #h ,co/ ( l9+1 f9d+1 b&1 & box #b #f ,sew+ 9 ( ditto #j #f ---------- #a #b #aj ,footnote #d3 ,no hat c be good1 or well cov]$1 ) less ?an "o ounce ( prime beav]2 &1 small z ! quantity is1 !re 0 a "t :5 j\rneym5 mak]s 7cat*+ ! cu/om ( _! bett]s1 & by way ( ty!7 ?\ght x no s9 to appropriate a "p ( ?is mat]ial to _! own use2 b1 = ! cr$it ( ! trade be x said1 ! practice is long s9ce aboli%$1 & a man attempt+ x at ! pres5t day w\ld be sc\t$ f ! factory :]e he work$1 by e hone/ j\rneyman !re94 ,footnote #e3 ,! av]age week's "w ( a mak] is ab\t t5 hats2 t ( a f9i%]1 f five to six doz54 ,su* is ! co/ ( mat]ials & lab\r at ! pres5t p]iod2 x is true t ! above scale is drawn f 8cr$it prices20 b let e "p ( a manufactur+ conc]n be c>ri$ on = money only1 :i* is r>ely ! case1 /ill ! d$uction f ! :ole _c be m ?an #g p] c5t4 ,all sub/itutes = ! above mat]ials are decid$ly condemn$2 nor c _! quantities1 z "h /at$1 be less5$1 )\t injury to ! rema9d]4 ,"h !n is suffici5t evid5ce t a f9e hat mu/1 "u ! mo/ fav\rable circum/ances1 /& ! manufactur] 9 upw>ds ( tw5ty-"o %ill+s1 yet _m assume a capability ( retail+ su* an article at less ev5 ?an ! *>ge ( manufacture4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,a ,g5]al ,li/ ( ,lloyd's ,fa%ionable ,hats1 inv5t$1 manufactur$1 & sold by him1 at 8 ,w>eh\se1 #ib1 ,newgate-,/reet1 ,london4 ,! ,john ,bull ,! ,bang-up ,! ,well+ton ,! ,jolliffe ,! ,t&em ,cl]icus ,! ,tally-,ho ,! ,bon-,ton ,! ,%all[ ,! ,b>onet ,! ,coburg ,! ,f\r-9-,h& ,! ,m>quis ,a ,bit ( ,blood ,! ,ecc5tric ,! ,b>on ,! ,reg5t ,a ,noble ,"l ,! ,k5t ,! ,new ,da% ,! ,cumb]l& ,a ,p>is ,beau ,! ,esquire ,! ,brutus ,! ,vis-a-,vis ,! ,exquisite ,! ,pet]%am ,! ,irresi/ible ,! ,tilbury ,! ,pic ,nic ,! ,c\nt ,! ,visc\nt ,! ,m$ium ,& ! ,d&y4 ,,conclusion4 ,if ! =ego+ treatise to be judg$ by ! lett] & n ! _s--h m]cy read]4 ,,rules ,,= ,,measur+ ,a ,,hat4--,take ! circumf]5ce on ! outside1 :]e ! b& is fix$1 9 in*es4 ,! bread? ( brim & dep? ( cr[n z want$4 ---------------------------------------- -------------- ,ent]$ at ,/ation]'s ,hall4 ---------------------------------------- -------------- ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,transcrib]'s ,notes3 ,! orig9al caption = ! illu/ration ( hat /yles 0 almo/ illegible4 ,x 0 replac$ 9 ! illu/ration by typ$-9 text 9 a simil> typeface4 ,miss+ or obscur$ punctuation 0 correct$4 ,typographical errors 7 sil5tly correct$4 ,inconsi/5t spell+ & hyph5ation 7 made consi/5t only :5 a pr$om9ant =m 0 f\nd 9 ?is book4 ,text 9 italics is enclos$ by und]scores 7italics72 text 9 bold by 8equal0 signs 7bold74