,,lloyd',s ,,treatise ,,on ,,hats1 ,,with ,,twenty-,,four ,,engravings2 ,,containing ,,novel ,,delineations ,,of ,,his ,,various ,,shapes1 ,,shewing ,,the ,,manner ,,in ,,which ,,they ,,should ,,be ,,worn1 ,,the ,,sort ,,of ,,face ,,and ,,person ,,best ,,suited ,,to ,,each ,,particular ,,hat1 ,,and ,,rules ,,for ,,their ,,preservation2 ,,to ,,which ,,is ,,added1 ,,the ,,whole ,,process ,,of ,,hat-,,making2 ,,together ,,with ,,the ,,customs ,,and ,,regulations ,,of ,,journeymen ,,hatters1 ,,and ,,other ,,useful ,,information4 ---------------------------- ,dedicated1 with ,permission1 to the ,head4 ---------------------------- ,,second ,,edition4 ,,london3 ,,printed ,,for ,,the ,,author1 ,by ,f4 ,thorowgood1 #i1 ,addle-,street1 ,aldermanbury4 --- #ahai4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,preface4 ------- ,,to what trifles do some men owe a perpetuation of their 8famous memory40 ,there is ,nimrod1 for instance1 not but what he may have had other and greater merits1 yet he is best known as a 8mighty hunter10 and one who 8wore boots20 now1 allowing the relation to be true1 and that he did hunt1 and he did wear boots1 is there anything extraordinary attaching to either1 unless indeed1 it could be proved that he had wooden legs1 or that he was capable of sitting on the backs of two or more animals at one time2 and if such were not the case1 the simple fact of itself was never worth recording2 as well may it be said1 a thousand years hence1 that ,,lloyd was a great ,hatmaker1 and lived in a great ,city4 ,but possibly the hunting system of this old gentleman differed materially from the pastime of our modern ,tally-ho's1 and instead of running after hares1 snipes1 and conies1 ,nimrod's sport was on the field of battle2 in whose days the most rational idea is1 that all was game which caused pursuits1 and all pursuits hunting3 ,if it were not so1 and his majesty's capability only extended to the riding upon a horse's back1 there is not a butcher's boy1 in any country village between ,,berwick and ,,st4 ,,ives1 that would not have ridden ,nimrod's rump off4 ,but it may be asked by those whose inclinations and patience shall lead them to hunt through the following pages1 whether this is what it professes to be1 a ,,preface1 which is supposed to explain1 or prepare the mind for something to come2 the answer to which is as follows3 ,a horse that will not go without another being led before him1 is not worth riding1 and if what is herein written requires a ,preface to render it intelligible1 it is not worth the reading4 ,may1 #ahai4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,john ,,bull4 ,,the greatest difficulty a painter has professionally to encounter is to produce a striking resemblance of a countenance where there are no striking features3 just so with the ,hat called 8,,john ,,bull40 ,it has no marked style of peculiarity in the formation2 but1 independent of the fine texture1 there is in it a combination of rare qualities not often met with3 for instance--it has in appearance strong marks of becoming gravity--a bold but manly dignity--a pleasing diffidence1 with a conscious1 yet unassuming importance--and is recommended to persons somewhat robust in form1 features full and round1 with a complexion not too dark4 ,in wearing1 it should neither be placed aside1 thrown too far back1 nor brought particularly forward over the face1 for the following reasons--the first position would bespeak an air of non challance--the second a sort of slovenly neglect in the person--and the third an incommunicative sullenness of disposition4 ,,the ,,wellington4 ,,so called from the great ,hero2 not for the popularity of the name alone1 but for the reason that such a ,hat was actually worn by him2 and1 in fact1 it is a shape uncommonly well suited both to his face and person2 the former being a sort of long oval1 and the latter without the least appearance of bulk3 indeed a ponderous body1 tall or short1 with a round1 or what is vulgarly termed a pudding face1 cannot judiciously shelter itself under a ,wellington4 ,this ,hat is not only particularly becoming the person of his ,grace1 but there is that in its appearance which is strongly characteristic of his great mind2 for1 to an excellently formed crown of about seven inches deep1 overspreading an inch at top1 there is united a fine arched brim of small dimensions1 taking a smartish sweep of the fourth part of a circle1 and when placed on the head somewhat a la ,francais1 carries with it an uncommon degree of brilliancy and fire3 and the fore and hind parts terminating in a close point1 clearly shows that1 whether advancing or retreating1 this modern ,c,,sar is always sure to carry his point4 ,,the ,,tandem4 ,this is a ,hat wherein is displayed a good deal of what may be termed character2 for which reason1 its becoming wearers1 comparatively speaking1 will be few in number2 but notwithstanding this marked peculiarity1 there is a sort of style in its general feature which is uncommonly striking2 nor is there any form whatever1 where so much of that airy lightness is to be seen1 as in the ,tandem4 ,few persons over thirty become this ,hat1 and none under twenty1 and even between those ages1 if the head be more than twenty-two inches1 or less than twenty-one and a half in circumference1 the whole effect is destroyed4 ,shape of the face immaterial1 provided the complexion is not too dingy2 but1 above all things1 neither overgrown or little fat gentlemen should wear the ,tandem4 ,to have the best effect when on the head1 it should be placed rather forward1 inclining a little to one side4 ,,the ,,tally-,,ho4 ,a very comfortable and convenient hunting ,hat1 partaking in some degree the natural formation of the head3 has many advantages over the old fashioned cap2 is light1 though strong--porous1 which allows the heat of the head1 arising from exertion1 to fly off--and elastic1 the effect of which is to sit close without pressure2 but1 above all1 it has a most gentlemanly appearance1 which it never fails to communicate to the wearer1 particularly if he be a true sportsman4 ,,the ,,shallow4 ,a ,hat more admired for the ease and simplicity of style than for any peculiar character in its general appearance2 being low in the crown1 it is worn to most advantage by tall thin gentlemen with very large heads2 and as the fore and hind part of the brim is set nearly horizontal from the base of the crown1 it has two great advantages2 the first of which is1 that it may be conveniently worn over a wig2 and1 secondly1 if worn without1 the shirt collar is kept clean much longer than usual4 ,this ,hat1 to have its proper effect1 should be placed on the head with a strict formality of set1 which in many persons will beget an air of importance4 ,n4 ,b4 ,the late ,justice ,addington generally wore a shallow4 ,,the ,,coburg4 ,,for style and form has strong claims to favour2 but1 being rather small in appearance1 the wearer1 to show to most advantage1 should be somewhat slender in his make1 features not too prominent1 and in stature about five feet five to five feet ten1 but neither above nor below4 ,one great advantage attending this ,hat is1 that the shape of the wearer's nose is not at all material1 provided it be not of that class known by the term 8bottled40 ,it may be worn a little aside1 but by no means placed too far on the head1 a failing very general among country gentlemen4 ,,the ,,marquis4 ,a well-proportioned ,hat in every respect1 and may1 not inaptly1 be termed the ,universal1 as it becomes most persons who wear it2 in point of form1 there is nothing of what may be called character or singularity in its appearance1 and has the rare property of giving to the wearer a sort of dignified affability1 a courteous condescension1 together with an agreeable modesty1 at least in appearance4 ,it is named after a certain nobleman1 who has all the above qualities united1 although in the prime of life4 ,to show to advantage on the head1 this ,hat should not go lower than the tip of the ears1 both of which it may barely touch1 unless the wearer has a short neck1 in that case it must be worn somewhat aside1 touching one ear only1 but by no means to be thrown back4 ,,the ,,eccentric4 ,unique in its way1 strongly embodying the name in its form4 ,this ,hat is particularly recommended to gentlemen 7and many are to be found7 who hold their understandings libelled by acting1 thinking1 speaking1 or dressing like other men2 but1 it must be observed1 that slender persons with dark countenances1 and about the middle size1 best become these ,hats3 for1 however eccentric a man would wish to appear1 by adopting any peculiar mode of dress1 he never can hope to succeed unless nature has done a little for him2 it follows then of course1 that a tall or short man1 if he be stout and well grown1 with a fine open florid countenance1 cannot cleverly become an ,eccentric2 but an agreeable contorsion of the eye1 a trifling disagreement in the symmetry of the shoulders1 or a slight bias of the body right or left1 are indescribable advantages in giving full effect to this ,hat1 which may be worn a little on one side1 with a gentle inclination over the eyes1 unless they are playing at cross purposes1 in the event of which it must be thrown quite back1 to give effect to their playful humour4 ,,the ,,regent4 ,a finely-formed and most decidedly elegant ,hat3 is somewhat upon a large scale1 the crown being upwards of seven inches high1 much yeoman1 with an excellently turned and corresponding brim1 producing together a happy union of the nicest proportions3 ,it is worn to most advantage by persons whose height and bulk are above the common stature2 not that it is meant to be understood1 that every athletic or robust form would become a ,regent2 on the contrary1 there is not a shape in the whole catalogue that demands in the wearer a greater share of external requisites than this2 even the very gait is concerned1 which1 to strike1 should be stately and firm1 though easy1 each step measuring exactly half the length of the whole body--more would become an absolute stride--and less a mere strut2 than which nothing can be farther removed from graceful carriage3 ,be it understood1 also1 that the ,regent is most becoming when placed a little on the right side1 but by no means to come within half an inch of the ear--unless the latter should exceed its fair dimensions--in that case it were best hid altogether2 but then1 to do this1 the ,hat is forced beyond the proper position1 and what was intended as ornament1 becomes the very reverse3 ,so circumstanced1 the ,noble ,lord1 the ,shallow1 or the ,john ,bull1 might be worn to most advantage2 but when ,nature has been a little attentive to the minuter parts1 as well as the greater proportions of manly exterior1 the ,regent cannot fail to give additional dignity to the wearer2 creating thereby a combination of elegancies that must render his appearance absolutely ,,irresistible4 ,,the ,,kent4 ,a very gentlemanly ,hat1 and although there is not the dignity of the ,regent about it1 there is1 notwithstanding1 much to admire3 ,indeed1 the scale of proportions are very similar in both2 the only real difference existing in the crown1 which is about one-half of an inch lower than the latter2 and1 in the nautical phraseology1 may not inaptly be termed a ,regent cut down4 ,it is very singular1 and worth remarking1 that trifling as the ,kent differs from the ,regent in actual measurement1 the contrariety of effect1 when on the head1 is great and striking2 which unquestionably proves1 that a very slight deviation from a given rule will produce results more opposed to each other than the deviation is to the rule itself4 ,the style in which this ,hat should be worn is as follows3--if the head be of an oval form1 place it thereon1 as near as possible1 in an horizontal position2 but if a round head 7which of all descriptions is most dreaded by a castermonger7 let the ,hat be thrown a little back1 with a slight inclination on the side most agreeable1 which will tend to prevent its assuming that trencher-like appearance too common from such causes4 ,the personal requisites suitable to the ,kent1 may be found on referring to the ,cobourg2 with this difference1 that1 as the brim is of larger dimensions1 the wearer1 if he pleases1 may be six feet high4 ,,the ,,cumberland4 ,,this ,hat1 in outline and symmetry1 is highly prepossessing1 and will always have a number of admirers4 ,the formation1 dimensions1 and style of the brim1 are similar to the ,regent and the ,kent2 but the crown is taper and much shallower than either4 ,it should be worn as nearly horizontal as possible2 and1 if the wearer be of the middle stature1 or above1 his bulk or countenance is immaterial4 ,,the ,,vis-,a-,,vis4 ,a remarkably ,,stylish ,,hat1 possessing great and peculiar advantages over most others1 on which account its claims to patronage are of the highest order4 ,the brim1 before as well as behind1 being brought down quite square1 and almost in a perpendicular line with the crown itself1 gives the wearer an opportunity of observing things en passant1 by a sort of side-glance1 without being seen so to do2 thus1 it is well adapted for gentlemen who would fain indulge in the most exquisite admiration of the beauteous fair3 but by reason of their extreme modesty1 shrink from the trial3 ,there is1 also1 another and a very important consideration1 which cannot be allowed to pass unnoticed--it is a well-known truth1 that there are certain situations in life where the falling into is not at all times to be avoided2 the result of which is1 to create in the imagination1 a perpetual apprehension lest some villainous intruder should1 in defiance of eloquence or inclination1 compel the acceptance of his official or rather officious attendance3 to counteract so dirty a custom1 as well as to nip the system in the very bud1 this ,hat is most admirably contrived--for by a simple elevation of the hinder part1 the front may be brought so far over the face1 as to form a complete shade for the countenance4 ,here then is the attainment of two great ends--modesty encouraged1 and impertinence restrained4 ,lastly1 and not the least of its useful purposes is1 that should the introduction of the ,vis-a-,vis become general1 those novel and graceful evolutions of the body1 denominated the bend1 the flutter1 and the poke1 may be performed in a much smaller space than usual1 and without the least danger to the eyes1 which is greatly to be feared1 when the distinguished votaries1 in the eager performance of these newly-imported civilities1 are brought too abruptly face to face4 ,although there is much of the dash in this ,hat1 it has1 notwithstanding1 a sort of sombre appearance1 which calls on the wearer for a figure and countenance to correspond2 it is therefore1 if ornamentally considered1 recommended to such only1 whose complexion is of a darkish hue1 visage long1 not over bulky in person1 and above the middle size2 but1 if usefully considered1 all the nicer distinctions must yield to imperious necessity4 ,,the ,,petersham4 ,a connoisseur examining a fine painting1 was asked by a bye-stander1 which part he most admired2 his answer was1 8no part40 8,what60 observed the other1 8is it possible that so highly talented a production as this is acknowledged to be1 can have no merits in your estimation80 ,to which the connoisseur replied--8,sir1 a work so masterly in execution--so striking in effect--so perfect in all its parts1 cannot be truly estimated but as a whole40 ,here1 then1 the picture is the ,petersham--the selection of beauties therein1 the difficulty3 ,to get rid of which1 be it sufficient to state1 that the prominent feature in this ,hat is elegance of style1 strongly visible in all its parts1 and each part in unison with the whole2 which for tonish and exquisite dash has no competitor4 ,it will be seen1 from what is here stated1 that1 much as this ,hat is capable of transfusing its graces to the wearer 7and who can doubt it71 some little attention to personal requisites is necessary--which1 in stature1 should be over five feet seven1 and not too lusty2 countenance or complexion is of little consequence2 but the visage should be oval1 such corresponding uncommonly well with the fine arched brim1 which forms nearly two-fifths of a circle2 and1 when tastefully placed on the head1 with a slight inclination over the face1 so as to bring the fore point on a line with the tip of the nose1 such will be the result1 that1 whatever difficulty may attend a just description of its astonishing effects1 the advantages to a wearer will most assuredly be ,,felt4 ,,the ,,tilbury4 ,,this ,hat is bold in appearance1 but full of character3 ,indeed1 there is so much of the whip in its general outline1 that it can never1 with propriety1 be worn but as a driving ,hat4 ,,the ,,bang-,,up4 ,,what a pleasing reflection it is1 all things considered1 that near as the human form may approach to perfection1 still that form is capable of being improved by ingenuity2 but then1 the difficulty is to decide on what really are improvements3 for instance1 some will admire a fine slope in the coat skirts1 tapering off like the tail of a goose2 some 7whether or no to catch the manners of a hoyden7 will put on the frock2 others1 again1 admire the pantaloon2 and many give a decided preference to inexpressibles4 ,but the ,bang-up1 as a ,hat1 is the very master-piece of inventive taste1 wherein all admiration must of necessity centre1 having not only in its general appearance a bold and manly front1 but a pleasing harmony of parts1 all tending to produce an agreeable union of taste and utility2 who then would mount the 8box0 without being decorated with its chiefest ornament8 ,,the ,,clericus4 ,a very ,,contemplative1 ,,sedate1 ,,pious-,,looking ,,hat1 much worn by ,police-,officers1 ,quack-,doctors1 and ,clergymen2 this1 it may be said1 is a strange assemblage of characters to bring under one head1 and some may hold the association to be a reflection on the latter1 when in truth the very opposite is intended2 in proof of which it is only necessary to observe that1 where the attainment of an object depends on outward show1 such contrivances will be resorted to as are best calculated to secure the object in view2 and the very assumption of the habit here spoken of by the 8traps0 and 8quacks0 of the day1 is evidence of the habit itself being in the highest possible estimation4 ,if taken in an ornamental point of view1 it would be no easy task to decide on its merits2 but if usefully considered1 the conclusion is plain and easy4 ,it is an admitted fact1 that an idea of dignity cannot embody itself with little things1 hence the custom of wearing large wigs1 for such doubtless these ,hats were originally intended1 and for this reason1 the hinder part being drawn up with loops in two places1 no peruke1 however large its dimensions1 can receive the least injury2 in short1 it may be worn under this ,hat with as little discomfiture to the intricate friz as though it were absolutely on the very block itself3 here then is produced what may be termed a happy union of wisdom and piety1 inasmuch as it is allowed1 when speaking of high legal characters1 that the wisdom is in the wig1 and by the same rule 7when ,clericus is worn by a ,divine7 the piety must be in the ,hat4 ,the style of putting on will greatly depend on the size of the peruke1 without which it should never be worn1 particularly if the hair be lank and black4 ,,the ,,bon-,,ton4 ,,in point of form and fine proportions1 this ,hat cannot fail to rank high in general estimation4 ,its appearance very much resembles the ,wellington1 or rather it is between the ,wellington and the ,marquis2 and1 like the latter1 there is that becoming style1 which not only harmonizes1 but gives a peculiar grace to the majority of its wearers4 ,,the ,,baronet4 ,,this is a ,hat highly respectable in appearance1 and well suited to gentlemen in the decline of life2 but as that is a state to which few will acknowledge while there is a capability of hobbling without a crutch1 something definite had better be stated by giving the precise age2--take it then at fifty1 which will put all doubts at rest4 ,the reason for fixing on the ,baronet1 as suitable to those in declining years1 is its grave1 reflecting1 methodical cast1 such as would seem to say of the wearer--8,here is one that possesses a serenity of mind1 an easy indifference of disposition1 a tranquillity of thought1 which would quietly disentangle itself from the vain1 shadowy1 fleeting desires of this life1 and leave no regret behind40 ,there are many other recommendatory properties in this ,hat1 but those already particularized are the most valuable2 yes1 valuable1--for it is a well-known fact1 that mankind are often made up of contrivance1 that is1 they frequently give to appearance the shape of reality2--and however strange the doctrine may at first appear1 it is nevertheless true1 that the custom is often attended with very beneficial results1 inasmuch as by endeavouring to maintain an apparent consistency between habit and action1 the propriety of doing right becomes so strongly impressed on the mind1 that the villainy of a bad practice is seen in its worst deformity1 and conscience1 the unerring monitor of the mind1 rides triumphant over all4 ,these are recommendations of no ordinary nature1 and such that will no doubt cause much inquiry after the ,baronet4 ,as to growth or countenance1 there is an old saying1 that 8beggars should not be choosers20 and the wearer1 if he becomes so from necessity1 will feel the propriety of leaving choice out of the question4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,illustration3 ,engraved for ,lloyd's treatise on ,hats4 ,john ,bull4 ,the ,cobourg4 ,the ,baron4 ,clericus4 ,the ,new ,dash4 ,the ,shallow4 ,the ,cumberland4 ,the ,viz-a-viz4 ,the ,eccentric4 ,the ,wellington4 ,a ,noble ,lord4 ,the ,tandem4 ,the ,marquis4 ,the ,tally-ho4 ,the ,bang-up4 ,baronet4 ,the ,paris ,beau4 ,the ,bon ,ton4 ,a bit of ,blood4 ,the ,jolliffe4 ,the ,dandy4 ,the ,regent4 ,the ,irresistible4 ,the ,petersham4 ,designed by ,r4 ,lloyd1 ,hat ,maker1 ,no4 #ib1 ,newgate-,street4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,the ,,jolliffe4 ,a mind which is struck1 through the medium of sight1 with impressions of sublimity1 will have those impressions strengthened in proportion as the magnitude of the object viewed is the greater1 and as all things are but great or small comparatively1 it follows1 of course1 that bodies of the same class1 description1 or affinity1 which are less than the largest1 must suffer1 when brought into the scale of comparison with their superiors3 agreeably to these rules1 the ,,jolliffe1 whose dimensions exceed all others1 comes forward with strong claims to patronage1 for besides the importance with which it never fails to strike every beholder1 it is sure to convey a corresponding importance to the ,,wearer4 ,here then are considerations which should not be trifled with1 particularly as the assumption of a thing is often taken for the thing itself--nay1 are there not situations in life where appearances become so vitally important that it would be little short of criminality not to put them on8 and where the attainment of great ends may be insured by nothing more than a simple attention to the formation of a ,hat1 it would be worse than folly to neglect the means4 ,rightly taken1 what a multiplicity of persons might be benefitted by the above hints2 ,princes1 ,peers1 and ,plenipotentiaries2 ,senators1 ,state-ministers1 or ,trading ,politicians2--all--all may find their interest in the adoption of the ,jolliffe2 and that these great personages may not plead ignorance as to the manner in which it should be worn with the best effect1 here follow the proper instructions4 ,if a ,,prince1 let it be lightly placed on the head1 and a little aside1 which bespeaks a sort of cheerful approving confidence in one's own actions4--,if a ,,peer1 it should be worn in a firm horizontal position1 just covering half the forehead2 which gives the appearance of a wise and steady determination where great questions are agitated1 particularly when they become self interesting4--,if an ,,ambassador1 it may be thrown a little back1 inclining somewhat aside2 such position indicating a bold and careless indifference to all around1 which will be taken for granted that such could not arise from any other cause than a total disregard for the result of his mission2 a practice1 although not often hit on1 may have many advantages4 ,as to the three latter characters1 their pursuits having all the same end--,,popularity--let them consult the style of the ,prince1 and remember that1 in whomsoever confidence has credit1 popularity is sure to follow4 -------------- ,as the ,jolliffe is not likely to be worn unless for special purposes1 to give an idea who would best become it is unnecessary4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,the ,,four-,,in-,,hand4 ,a modern-styled whip1 ,howe'er he may dip ,into fashion's wide vortex his pinions1 ,to make a bold stand1 ,,lloyd',s prime ,four-in-,hand ,must cover his upper dominions4 ,for ease1 form1 and set1 ,the like never yet ,was seen1 at least so run opinions2 ,then ye four-in-hand whips1 ,in your jarvey-like trips ,take care of your upper dominions4 ,,dimensions4 ,it measures1 by rule1 ,near three inches full ,in the brim1 with a crown wide at top2 ,nor is there a face ,but what it will grace1 ,if purchased at ,,lloyd',s fancy shop4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,a ,,bit ,,of ,,blood4 ,the term itself naturally implies a something upon a small scale1 which is the fact1 and although there is nothing of that imposing dignity of style in the above ,hat1 which characterizes the ,regent1 the ,petersham1 c4 there is a lively1 animated1 and vigorous fire in all its features1 that will not allow of any falling off in the general comparison4 ,to give a complete catalogue of the many ,,virtues belonging to a bit of blood1 would exceed the allotted limits2 but it cannot be amiss to detail a few of the more prominent1 that all1 whose necessities may bear to the point1 should be benefitted by the wearing3 ,first then1 it is admirably calculated for those who are about to ask favors1 such being more readily granted when they seem the less wanted1 and no one could suppose that the saucy animation which would be so strongly visible under this ,hat could make the application from ,,necessity4 ,secondly1 it will be of singular advantage to elderly gentlemen in pursuit of young wives1 who nine times in ten decide on the choice of a man from the cock--of his ,hat4 ,thirdly1 7not that there is much need of it for such a purpose now-a-days7 its advantages for those that are tormented with dunns are incalculable1 for1 by being placed pretty firm on the head1 inclining rather to one side1 at the same time assuming a sharp erect position of the body1 a stern direction of the eye1 and arms a-kimbo1 the devil himself1 in the shape of a creditor1 would hardly hazard the ,,repetition ,,of ,a ,,visit4 ,n4 ,b4 ,no service to gentlemen of the learned profession4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,the ,,process ,,of ,,hat-,,making ,,explained1 ,,with ,,prefatory ,,remarks1 c4 c4 ------- ,,turks are said to assign as a reason for not wearing ,hats1 that they are put together by witchcraft4 ,there is certainly a great deal of ingenuity in the practice1 and some effects produced whose causes are as yet unexplained3 but1 with all due deference to these turban gentlemen1 it is presumed that they have objections beyond what is above stated1 some of which are as follows3--,first1 their country is destitute of the most essential material--,,fur4 ,second1 the climate being extremely sultry1 stoves1 irons1 and scalding water are not likely to become favourites4 ,thirdly1 being compelled by their religion to keep their heads close shaved1 a ,hat1 above all human inventions1 would be the most ridiculous covering they could adopt4 ,there are many opinions as to the time ,hats were first invented1 and1 very probably1 all equally erroneous4 ,some carry the date as far back as the foundation of ,christianity1 attributing the merit to ,st4 ,luke1 of whom it is said1 that he1 having tender feet1 put a layer of hair or fur between them and his sandals1 in which situation friction and moisture caused such an interweaving of particles1 that the whole became strongly united1 or 7technically called7 ,,felted4 ,whether the story1 as applied to ,luke1 be true or false1 is immaterial2 but that such did happen with some one1 is very likely2 nor is it at all unlikely1 but that an occurrence of this kind did really give the first idea of ,hat-making4 ,having remarked thus much1 ,i shall next proceed to state1 what is not the less true than surprising1 which is1 that of the various branches of manufacture which this country is so highly distinguished for1 none are less understood than ,hat-making2 nay1 there is not one person in fifty who1 if he were asked the question1 could tell whether a ,hat was or was not a woven substance2 nor is there one in #ejj but what suppose that the skin of a hare or rabbit is worked with the fur attached to it1 as in the natural state2 and1 to form a correct judgment of the external material1 when manufactured1 whether it be hair1 wool1 or beaver1 although many pretend1 none are really competent but those experienced in the trade4 ,to show the absurd notions some entertain on this matter1 ,i state as a fact1 that ,i do not know a manufacturer or seller in the trade but what has been applied to1 by some one or other1 to have a ,beaver ,hat made from a hare's skin4 ,nay1 ,i remember once offending a very good customer1 and a man not wanting for sense either1 by an involuntary burst of laughter1 on his presenting the skin of a ,french lap-dog for the very same purpose4 ,it is no uncommon thing for persons who are on pretty good terms with their capabilities to give opinions as to the merits or demerits of a ,hat2 which opinions are as opposite to the true state of the case as the sun's rays to a state of darkness4 ,i shall give an instance1 although a trifling one1 of a very common error among persons who suppose themselves to have a knowledge of the subject1 which is this1 if the picker has not a very good eye1 some of the larger hairs will be left in the ,hat1 and consequently the most visible2 these are directly termed 8grey hairs10 when the truth is1 that they are the blackest in the whole composition2 but being thicker than the general mass1 they receive a greater portion of light1 which is mistaken for a grey colour3 an easy method of proving the fact is to pull one of these grey hairs from the ,hat1 and place it on a piece of white paper1 the contrast will decide the question4 ,again1 whatever produces a glutinization of the ,,nap1 is said to be the effect of the stiffening2 this is not true in every case1 for it is frequently owing to improper management in placing the ,hat1 when wet1 before a large fire1 which should never be done2 the better way is1 if very wet1 to hang it up without brushing or wiping1 and when dry it is easily put to rights1 by gently passing over a clothes brush3 if only slightly wet1 wipe it with a handkerchief1 and1 when dry1 it will brush clean4 ,but the great fault with most persons is to put on their ,hats1 day after day1 in the same dirty state as when taken off at night2 from which it is natural to infer1 that there must be a vast accumulation of dirt2 it is this dirt1 when exposed to the rain1 that forms a sort of cement1 or paste1 having all the appearance of what is commonly called 8gum40 ,another proof of erroneous judgment--,profuse perspiration of the head is what many are subject to2 by reason of which1 from the frequency of wearing1 and the porosity of the ,hat1 there is a continual absorption of moisture going on until it becomes completely saturated1 particularly in front1 the consequence is1 that the nap lies buried in a greasy matter1 which matter is also1 but very inappropriately termed gum or stiffening1 when in point of fact it is neither1 for the very same effect would1 under the like circumstances1 be produced1 and in much less time1 if the ,hat were not stiffened at all4 ,the best remedy for this is a piece of thin flannel under the leather1 and that frequently changed4 ,there is nothing so detrimental to a ,hat as a severe exposure to rain on the first1 second1 or even third time of wearing2 for this reason1 the materials wherewith it is composed are in a manner quite green1 and require seasoning2 to effect which it should be frequently put on in dry weather4 ,i have always found that a ,hat1 constantly worn for five or six weeks without being wet1 underwent every sort of hardship afterwards with little or no injury1 retaining at the same time its beauty--form--and wearing three times longer than it otherwise would have done4 ,it may be asked1 why not1 to prevent accidents1 render the ,hat water-proof8 that is1 impervious to the action of either atmosphere or rain4 ,the thing is easy enough1 ,i admit2 but where there is a choice of only two evils1 it is always best to select the least4 ,we all know 7or should know7 that if a man were to enclose himself1 arms1 legs1 and body1 in what is called an oil-skin dress1 and that drawn close round the neck1 the whole tightly fitted to every part of his person as a ,hat is to the head1 the most unpleasant consequences would ensue2 the cause why is obviously this1 the exhalations of the body1 particularly in a state of exertion1 would when so enclosed1 be either prevented from flying off1 as nature requires1 or otherwise checked altogether2 precisely so with the head if the porosity of the ,hat was destroyed1 which it must be to resist effectually the action of water4 ,this deduction must be so clear and self-evident that further reasoning is unnecessary4 ,another great objection against water-proof ,hats is1 that the ingredients made use of for such purposes1 when exposed to the sun's heat1 are so acted upon as to cause a decomposition of the colour1 and nine times in ten1 the ,hat1 before it is half worn out1 becomes any thing but what it was meant to be4 ,it is astonishing to hear the number of qualifications a ,hat is said to have1 and each as opposite to the other as it is possible for any two things to be2 some1 for instance1 maintain that it cannot be good unless it is light1 others again will decidedly condemn it for being so1 insisting that the chief recommendation is its being firm and stout4 ,all that is requisite to be observed on this1 is that weight has no more to do with the quality of a ,hat1 than the situation of prime minister has to do with the cramming of turkies4 ,a very inferior ,hat may be made equally light with the most superior1 and in both cases the cost of manufacture will be less than if they were made stout4 ,the length of the beaver too is another point on which the difference of opinion is often experienced2 many are for very short naps1 declaring all others to be outrageously vulgar2 but the majority of wearers seem best pleased with long naps1 which always take and retain the best black1 while1 on the contrary those that are very short never do4 ,a medium between the two is the most preferable4 ,having stated thus much1 ,i shall next proceed to explain in what way a fine ,hat is made1 describing as accurately as possible the various processes it undergoes1 as also the materials with which it is composed1 the proportions of each as well as the quantity of work a man is capable of doing1 whether maker or finisher1 in a week1 the amount of wages1 together with some of the curious regulations1 by-laws1 c4 c4 c4 ,in the first place1 as ,i shall have occasion to mention a few of the implements by name1 a short description of them may not be amiss4 ,there is the ,,bow1 which in form is not unlike what is used for playing on a double bass1 but in length and thickness is equal to a constable's staff2 there is a bridge at each end1 from one to the other of which is tightly strung a stout line of catgut4 ,the ,,hurdle is situate in what is called the bow garret1 and is a sort of table1 on which the fur is bowed1 or mixed1 having the farther end and sides enclosed to prevent the material from being blown away4 ,the ,,battery is somewhat like the hopper of a mill1 in this is contained the hot liquor1 and is mostly constructed for eight men1 round which they stand when making2 the lower part is lead1 the upper or working part mahogany4 ,all batteries are formed into divisions called ,,planks1 one of which is allotted to each man4 ,there are many other little things used by makers1 but these three are all that deserve particular notice4 ,the first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the ,,fur1 or raw material1 which is furnished to him by weight2 the quantity being more or less1 according to the substance of the ,hat required1 and is in two parcels1 one of which contains the ,,beaver1 or napping2 the other the ,,body 7a proportionate scale of both will be seen hereafter74 ,thus provided he takes it to the ,,bow ,,garret2 the materials for the body are first placed on the hurdle1 and the bow being hung at the centre for support1 is held in the left hand horizontally1 so that the catgut may come in contact with the fur2 in the right hand is placed a small piece of stick1 with a nut at the end1 and in this position the work begins after the following manner4 ,the catgut of the bow 7being first placed in the midst of the fur7 is pulled or struck with the knotted stick1 which produces1 from a quick repetition of the stroke1 a continued vibration1 this vibration it is that causes a separation or flitting of the fur1 at the same time mixing and cleansing it4 ,this operation is continued until such ends are fully attained4 ,it is next divided into halves1 one of which is laid aside1 and the other again bowed over4 ,in this second operation the workman contrives1 partly by bowing1 and partly by a slight wicker frame1 to bring the material into an oblong form1 and equal in size to a large sheet of cartridge paper2 this is called a ,,bat1 and when done it is gently pressed down by the wicker1 after which a damp linen cloth is laid all over1 and on this again is placed a thick piece of dry ,,horse ,,hide2 the workman now begins to press hard on the hide for about five minutes2 in the doing this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth1 into which it is doubled up1 and once more undergoes the pressure of the hand4 ,under this operation 7which is called ,,basoning7 the bat becomes consolidated1 and may be thrown1 when taken out of the cloth1 from one end of the garret to the other without injury4 ,the second half is next bowed1 formed into a bat1 and basoned as the first4 ,this half remains on the hurdle1 and a piece of paper1 somewhat conical1 is placed on it1 over which1 and agreeable to the shape1 the sides of the bat are doubled4 ,here then is formed one half of the body1 this is laid aside1 and the first bat is then put flat on the hurdle on which the one previously doubled is placed with its open part downwards2 the lower bat being transversely doubled over the top hat1 forms a sort of conical1 or harlequin's cap2 in this state it is once more put into the damp cloth1 where it receives another hardening for the purpose of uniting or knitting both bats together2 after this it is folded into the compass of two hands1 ready for the plank4 ,the next thing is the beaver1 or covering1 which is bowed in form to correspond with the body1 but has nothing to do with it in this stage4 ,matters being completed thus far1 this is called the first process of ,hat-making4 ,the second commences as follows3--,the workman having gone from the bow garret to the making shop1 takes his stand at the battery1 under which is a ,,fire1 for the purpose of heating the liquor2#a into this hot liquor the body is quickly immersed1 where it remains till soaked through2 it is afterwards laid on the plank to drain and cool2 this done1 it is unfolded1 gently rolled1 turned at short intervals in every direction1 to prevent the sides uniting together2 and as the liquor becomes cold and rolled out1 it is continually supplied with hot and fresh1 by the sprinkling of a brush1 which is dipped in the kettle for that purpose2 under this operation1 assisted by the astringency of the vitriol1 the body shrinks1 and begins to assume a tough substance4 ,when it has shrunk to a certain size 7say three-fifths1 if to be double covered71 it is laid flat on the plank1 and the first coat of beaver1 as it comes from the bow1 is laid quite over it2 the brush is now dipped into the hot liquor1 the contents of which is sprinkled all over the beaver1 directly afterwards it is gently patted down with the hot brush2 here the body is put into a hair-cloth1 rolled in hot liquor1 turned inside out1 rolled again until the beaver1 is completely worked into the body2 when this is effected1 it is in a fit state to receive the second covering1 which is put on as the first1 the working1 turning1 patting1 and rolling still continuing until it is reduced to a fit dimension1 the beaver quite clean1 and all together assuming a closely felted1 fine1 solid piece of workmanship2 after which it is immediately blocked in this same liquor1 to the size wanted1 and put into a stove to dry1 from whence it is taken1 and with a small fine card the beaver is gently raised2 without this1 one half would lie buried1 and the beauty lost4--,here then is the complete ,,process ,,of ,,hat-,,making4 ,footnote #a3 ,the liquor1 which is always kept up to scalding heat1 is nothing more than clean soft water1 with a wine glass of vitriol1 and a small quantity of beer dregs thrown in4 ,the first is to shrink the body of the ,hat in working2 the other to destroy the pernicious effect of the vitriol4 ,it is next sent to the ,,dyer from whom it passes to the ,,finisher1 who1 after stiffening1 blocking1 and half finishing1 sends it to be picked1 which is performed by a woman1 whose place it is to pull out the kemps or thick hairs1 without injuring the beaver1#b although that is not always accomplished4 ,from the picker it returns to the finisher who1 by the ,,iron and velvet cushion1 gives it those highly brilliant and admired beauties that an ,english ,hat is so pre-eminently distinguished for4 ,the shaper next takes it in hand1 who is guided in his operations by the fancy of the wearer1 if bespoke1 which is sometimes a little whimsical4 ,after shaping1 it goes to the trimmer1 from whom it is returned to the ,,tipper ,,off2 he gets it ready for wearing2 it is then sent to its destination1 when the master1 if he is fortunate1 puts the amount into his pocket4#c ,footnote #b3 ,it has frequently been asked1 why not make a ,hat with beaver only1 the answer is1 there is not sufficient stamina or strength in it to become a sound felted substance4 ,it would be worse than building a brick house without mortar or some sort of cement1 to bind the whole together4 ,footnote #c3 ,some have payment before-hand1 which brings out the following old1 but very foolish saying1 8there are but two bad paymasters1 he who pays beforehand1 and he who never pays40 ,how the latter can be a paymaster requires some little ingenuity to determine4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,the ,,laws ,,and ,,customs ,,of ,,journeymen ,,hatters4 ,illustration3 ,decoration ,,to enter fully into the various regulations and forms that the 8trade0 have1 from time to time1 instituted and acted upon1 would of itself fill a volume2 all that can be done then in this small work will be to give the best possible outline of such matters as are most likely to interest those who may wish for information on the subject4 ,the most important laws of this trade are these3-- ,first--,no man shall work as a maker or finisher1 unless he has served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a 8fair master40 ,second--,to be a fair master1 and entitled1 according to the rules of the trade1 to take an apprentice1 he must have manufactured his own ,hats1 seven years prior to the taking1 or otherwise have served a fair seven years' apprenticeship himself to the trade4 ,third--,whether there be one1 two1 or more in a manufacturing firm1 that firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time4 ,fourth--,there are a number of masters who do not manufacture their own 8stuff10 but are employed by 8,great ,houses10 who1 although they have a right1 by law1 to take apprentices1 yet those apprentices1 by reason of their masters not working their own materials1 are never admitted to stand by the side of fair men1 on which account they must ever continue foul1 and debarred of the usual privileges1 or submit to a second apprenticeship4 ,this is a case that frequently occurs2 indeed it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a wife and half a dozen children1 himself near thirty years old1 serving a second apprenticeship for a fair time2 the hardship of this must be admitted1 inasmuch as it is punishing a man for a fault he never committed4 ,fifth--,a foul man is one that has not served his apprenticeship agreeably to the rule of the trade1 or has been guilty of some act detrimental to the supposed interests of the journeymen in general4 ,these are called 8,,knobsticks40 ,sixth--,a fair man has the privilege of what is called 8turns upon tramp10 that is1 if he cannot obtain work in the town where he resides1 or has an inclination to travel1 he may journey or tramp to the next2 should any of the fraternity be there1 and he wishes to get 8shopped0 he is 8asked for0 by one in that factory1 7no man being allowed to ask for himself71 if unsuccessful1 there are two night's lodging for him1 two pots of strong beer1 bread and cheese1 and a shilling or two to forward him to the next town4 ,the money turn in ,london is five shillings1 but no man is entitled to a second turn in one place1 until after the expiration of six months from his receiving the first4 ,seventh--,if a journeyman has1 by his own act1 become foul1 nothing can absolve him but submitting to a fine1 and this is measured according to the offence1 which1 in some heinous cases1 such as 8creeping0 into favour with the master1 or going to work when all the rest have struck for wages1 is as high as ten guineas4 ,there are three distinct courts for the examination and punishment of offenders4 ,the first1 or ,high ,court of ,,congress1 is a sort of general assembly1 composed of either ,makers or ,finishers1 just as their separate interests may be concerned2 but on all joint questions these parties form a junction4 ,in this court matters of importance only are discussed2 as1 for instance1 the advance of prices1 the abrogation of old laws1 and the making of new ones1 under the operation of which1 it sometimes happens that both men and masters1 as well as the law of the land1 are alike the victims4 ,the fines levied in this court are appropriated to special and 8,,striking0 purposes1 often tending to produce a 8,,combination0 of interesting effects4 ,the masters too are not wholly exempt from these pretty little combinations1 which1 however1 do not always realize or carry their intended point2 this is owing 7it is thought7 to the vast affection journeymen bear towards their employers2 indeed so much so1 that they cannot bear the latter should 8,,lower0 themselves4 ,there is a court below this1 which is formed by taking one or two men from the seven nearest shops4 ,their sitting1 if not public1 is sure to be in a public-house1 president1 ,sir ,john ,barleycorn4 ,the matters chiefly brought here are those that relate to the misconduct of journeymen towards each other in the same factory1 and which cannot be settled where they originated4 ,this is called 8,,dozening10 and their power of ,,fine extends to two guineas1 which is drank in good old stout by the whole seven shops2 but as all dry subjects are prohibited in this tribune1 the extent of fine greatly depends on the state of the weather2 so that if it be a sultry summer's day1 the punishment of an offender is in proportion to the sun's heat4 ,the third and lowest court is an assembly of shop-mates only1 this meeting is called a 8,,garret ,,match10 and may be demanded for the punishment of an aggressor1 by any aggrieved man in a factory4 ,power of fine from two to ten shillings4 ,i have before stated that there are in this trade foul men2 in point of number they constitute about one-sixth part of the whole2 but their earnings1 or price of labour is the same as the fair trade4 ,a journeyman finisher in full work will earn1 on an average1 from three to four pounds a-week2 while1 on the contrary1 a maker cannot get more than fifty shillings4 ,this is a subject of much jealousy and discontent2 nor is it likely to be otherwise1 unless the latter can raise himself to an equality with the former2 against this there are many obstacles1 one of which is1 the increasing foul trade1 who would continue working1 even though the fair men had 8struck40 ,another is1 that they could never obtain the co-operation of the finishers1 who1 being amply paid themselves1 think it best to leave well alone4 ,these are the principal regulations which govern journeymen hatters1 whether they have a good or a bad tendency is questionable2 there are many in the trade who decidedly condemn them1 giving as their reasons1 that they encourage idleness1 tippling1 and endless squabbles4 ,idleness--inasmuch as when men are summoned to discuss the most trifling matters1 even though the meeting be at five o'clock in the morning1 they seldom feel disposed to return to their work that day4 ,tippling--for the reason that1 as fines are mostly spent in drink1 the conviction of a supposed offender is generally thirsted after2 but as the quantum levied seldom suffices1 all further supplies for the remainder of the day are met by individual subscription4 ,in these cases there is no show of niggardliness1 as every succeeding gallon of the 8sparkling entire10 is but an internal messenger1 bearing the glad tidings of another to come4 ,squabbles1 because it is natural1 when the desire for a thing is once created1 and the gratification of that desire 7where nothing of criminality attaches7 can be indulged1 by having recourse to a little contrivance1 that the opportunity of so doing should be more frequently made1 than suffered to approach accidentally2 which will account for the trifling magnitudes that are allowed to agitate shops and factories in general4 ,the arguments in favour of these laws are1 that without them1 apprentices would be careless in serving out their time1 the trade over-run with bad workmen1 hats greatly deteriorated in the manufacture1 the excellence of which is their chief recommendation in a foreign market1 and the surest guarantee of the master's profits at home4 ,having given the contending opinions1 in reference to the laws of this trade1 ,i shall say a word or two concerning the shape1 and manner of placing a hat on the head4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,on ,,the ,,shape ,,and ,,style ,,of ,,wearing ,a ,,hat4 ,,there is no part of a man's dress that makes or mars his appearance so much as his hat2 not that it is its striking beauty when new1 or a want of it when old1 that is most materially concerned in producing either of the above effects2 the grand point is the ,,form1 and the position which it is made to assume on the head2 yet how few there are who give the least attention to either1 except indeed military men1 and they in general are uncommonly tasty1 affording the best example of the precise style in which a hat should be worn4 ,it is no less singular than true1 that the same hat1 by being placed on the head in different positions1 will give1 in appearance1 as many distinct characters to the same person as the number of those positions amount to4 ,the most striking are as follows3--sullenness--indolence--gravity 1 and good humoured impudence4 ,to give the first1 draw the brim of the hat so far over the eyes that they shall be quite concealed4 ,the second is produced by the hat being thrown quite back4 ,the third by a prim horizontal set1 covering equally all parts of the head2 and the fourth will not be easily mistaken wherever an extravagant cock on either side is brought full into view4 ,these are undoubtedly all extreme habits1 and seldom pushed to the extent here described2 yet a slight inclination to either position may1 under circumstances1 have a very good effect4 ,there is another bad custom that ought to be noticed1 which ,i shall do by first observing1 that a hat was intended solely to keep the head dry--,,on which it should be worn2 but many seem to differ from this opinion1 using it as a sort of ,,night-,,cap wherein is thrust head1 ears1 and all4 ,this is a most slovenly practice1 as well as a dangerous one1 inasmuch as it tends to keep the head in a continual and forced state of perspiration1 rendering a liability to 8take cold10 every time the hat is removed4 ,yet even this habit is not so bad as sticking the hat on the back of the head1 which1 of all others1 is the most general1 and carries with it the greatest impropriety1 because such a position not only destroys the shape1 but by lodging on the coat collar1 the hind part1 from friction1 becomes greasy1 and the binding is always in a state of raggedness2 added to these disadvantages1 a most ridiculous effect is produced by the practice1 that is1 the head in appearance is converted into a sort of peg1 ,,against which the hat seems to hang1 instead of being placed upon4 ,a man who indulges in so bad a custom1 should at least preserve a consistency in his dress by walking 8slip shoed10 breeches knees open1 and without braces1 stockings down1 waistcoat unbuttoned1 cravat half tied1 one arm only in his coat sleeve1 and at least a six months' uncombed crop of hair about his pericranium2 here he would be of a piece2 and grotesque as such a figure must appear1 by a general adoption of these 8captivating negligencies10 there is no greater inconsistency in the whole catalogue than that of wearing a hat on the back part of the head4 ,as to the form of a hat1 and what is best for this face or that person1 there is more in it than what is generally supposed1 and a great deal might be said on the subject2 but to talk of a standard fashion is absurd in the extreme1 in proof of which it need only be observed1 that if very large hats were adopted1 a thin man of five feet high1 would1 by the wearing1 become as complete a caricature1 as a twenty stone man of six feet would by wearing a very small one4 ,the best fashion a man can follow in a hat is that which best becomes him1 and various as heads1 faces1 and persons may be1 all things are now accomplished 7so far as a hat is concerned7 that can either fit the one or ornament the other1 ,by the ,head's sincere friend1 and well-wisher1 ,r4 ,l4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,furs used in a ,hat of fine quality1 according to the present improved system of making1 their proportions1 value1 cost of manufacture1 c4 c4 ,,for ,,the ,,body4 s4 d4 per oz4 s4 d4 #d oz4 of seasoned coney wool1 #a #j 44 #d #j oz4 red wool #b #d 44 #a #b oz4 of silk #j #i 44 #j #d ,,for ,,the ,,covering4 s4 d4 per oz4 s4 d4 #a oz4 of prime seasoned beaver #h #fd 44 #h #f ,journeyman's wages for making#e #c #f ,dyeing #j #h ,stiffening1 finishing1 and picking #a #h ,cost of lining1 finding1 band1 and box #b #f ,sewing in of ditto #j #f ---------- #a #b #aj ,footnote #d3 ,no hat can be good1 or well covered1 with less than one ounce of prime beaver2 and1 small as the quantity is1 there was a time when journeymen makers 7catching the custom of their betters1 and by way of tythe7 thought it no sin to appropriate a part of this material to their own use2 but1 for the credit of the trade be it said1 the practice is long since abolished1 and a man attempting it at the present day would be scouted from the factory where he worked1 by every honest journeyman therein4 ,footnote #e3 ,the average week's work of a maker is about ten hats2 that of a finisher1 from five to six dozen4 ,such is the cost of materials and labour at the present period2 it is true that the above scale is drawn from 8credit prices20 but let every part of a manufacturing concern be carried on for money only1 which is rarely the case1 still the deduction from the whole cannot be more than #g per cent4 ,all substitutes for the above materials are decidedly condemned2 nor can their quantities1 as here stated1 be lessened1 without injury to the remainder4 ,here then is sufficient evidence that a fine hat must1 under the most favourable circumstances1 stand the manufacturer in upwards of twenty-one shillings1 yet many assume a capability of retailing such an article at less even than the charge of manufacture4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,a ,general ,list of ,lloyd's ,fashionable ,hats1 invented1 manufactured1 and sold by him1 at his ,warehouse1 #ib1 ,newgate-,street1 ,london4 ,the ,john ,bull ,the ,bang-up ,the ,wellington ,the ,jolliffe ,the ,tandem ,clericus ,the ,tally-,ho ,the ,bon-,ton ,the ,shallow ,the ,baronet ,the ,coburg ,the ,four-in-,hand ,the ,marquis ,a ,bit of ,blood ,the ,eccentric ,the ,baron ,the ,regent ,a ,noble ,lord ,the ,kent ,the ,new ,dash ,the ,cumberland ,a ,paris ,beau ,the ,esquire ,the ,brutus ,the ,vis-a-,vis ,the ,exquisite ,the ,petersham ,the ,irresistible ,the ,tilbury ,the ,pic ,nic ,the ,count ,the ,viscount ,the ,medium ,and the ,dandy4 ,,conclusion4 ,if the foregoing treatise to be judged by the letter and not the spirit--have mercy reader4 ,,rules ,,for ,,measuring ,a ,,hat4--,take the circumference on the outside1 where the band is fixed1 in inches4 ,the breadth of brim and depth of crown as wanted4 ---------------------------------------- -------------- ,entered at ,stationer's ,hall4 ---------------------------------------- -------------- ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,the original caption for the illustration of hat styles was almost illegible4 ,it was replaced in the illustration by typed-in text in a similar typeface4 ,missing or obscured punctuation was corrected4 ,typographical errors were silently corrected4 ,inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book4 ,text in italics is enclosed by underscores 7italics72 text in bold by 8equal0 signs 7bold74