,,! ,,j\rnal ,,( ,c4 ,r4 ,,cock]ell1 ,r4,a4 ,illu/ration3 ,c4 ,r4 ,cock]ell ,,travels ,,9 ,,s\!rn ,,europe ,,& ,,! ,,levant1 #ahaj-ahag4 ,,! ,,j\rnal ,,( ,c4 ,r4 ,,cock]ell1 ,r4,a4 ,,edit$ ,,by ,,8 ,,son ,,samuel ,,pepys ,,cock]ell ,) a ,portrait ,,longmans1 ,,gre51 ,,& ,,co4 #ci ,,pat]no/] ,,r[1 ,,london ,,new ,,york ,,& ,,bombay #aijc ,all rights res]v$ ,,preface ,my fa!r1 ,*>les ,rob]t ,cock]ell1 ^: travels ! foll[+ pages record1 0 ! second son ( ,samuel ,pepys ,cock]ell1 a man ( "s means1 ar*itect to ! ,ea/ ,india ,company & to "o or m ,london e/ates4 ,he 0 born on ! #bg? ( ,april1 #aghh1 & at a suitable age he w5t to ,we/m9/]1 a fa%ionable s*ool 9 ^? days4 ,!re he rema9$ until he 0 sixte54 ,he 0 !n set to /udy ar*itecture1 at fir/ 9 8 fa!r's (fice1 & lat] 9 t ( ,mr4 ,rob]t ,smirke4 ,8 fa!r mu/ h _h a great fai? 9 ! educational advantage ( travel1 z already 9 #ahjf1 :5 he 0 only eighte51 he 0 s5t a t\r to /udy ! *ief ar*itectural objects ( ! ,we/ ( ,engl& & ,wales4 ,! sket*es 9 ! di>y ( ?is j\rney %[ him already ! possessor ( s light & graceful a t\* 9 draw+ t x is evid5t t he mu/ h practis$ x f v e>ly ye>s4 ,?is no d\bt 0 foll[$ by o!r simil> excursions1 b 8 fa!r's desire 0 t he %\ld see =eign c\ntries4 ,un=tunately1 9 #ahaj mo/ ( ! ,cont95t 0 clos$ to ,engli%m54 ,turkey1 :i* includ$ ,greece1 01 h[ev]1 op54 ,z x *anc$1 ?is 0 a happy exception4 ,! curr5t ( ta/e = ! mom5t 0 runn+ /rongly 9 ! direction ( ,greek ar*itecture2 ,smirke himself _h b lately return$ !nce4 ,:5 a s*eme = mak+ a t\r !re came to be discuss$1 ,mr4 ,william ,hamilton1 !n ,"u-,secret>y = ,=eign ,affairs1 an intimate fri5d ( ! family1 :o _h himself travell$ 9 ^? p>ts1 took a great int]e/ 9 x1 & (f]$ to s5d him out z ,k+'s mess5g] ) despat*es = ! fleet at ,cadiz1 ,malta1 & ,con/ant9ople4 ,su* an (f] 0 too good to refuse4 ,no def9ite t\r _h be5 or c\ld be m>k$ out 9 ! !n exi/+ conditions ( ,european politics4 ,! travell] 0 to be guid$ by circum/ances2 b no?+ approa*+ ! l5g? ( abs5ce1 :i* ext5d$ itself to sev5 & a qu>t] ye>s1 0 contemplat$ at ! "t ( />t+4 ,z f> z possible ,i h us$ my fa!r's own words 9 ! foll[+ acc\nt ( 8 j\rneys2 b ! lett]s & memor&a ( a y\? ( tw5ty-two1 :o dislik$ & _h no tal5t = writ+1 naturally require a great deal ( edit+4 ,8 beautiful sket*es =m :at may be call$ 8 real di>y4 ,i %\ld add t acc\nts ( "s ( ! episodes record$ 9 ?is ,j\rnal h se5 ! light already4 ,= in/ance1 ! discov]y ( ! g9a ,m>bles & ( ! ,phigaleian ,m>bles is n>rat$ 9 my fa!r's book1 ',! ,temples ( g9a & ,bass1' & 9 ,hughes's ',travels' z well4 ,/ackelb]g gives 8 own acc\nt ( ! excavations at ,bass 9 ',d] ,apollotempel zu ,bass c4' ,s t ,i _c flatt] myself t ! matt] is ei!r q new or well pres5t$4 ,b 9 spite ( ^! drawbacks ,i h ?\ght ! ,j\rnal 9 its entirety wor? publi%+4 ,sympa!tic read]s w f9d betwe5 ! l9es a fairly di/9ct picture ( :at travel 0 l 9 ! e>ly ye>s ( ! la/ c5tury1 & also ! portrait ( a n un9t]e/+ p]sonality4 ,,samuel ,,pepys ,,cock]ell4 ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,i ,,page ,leaves ,london = ,plym\?--,! despat* vessel--,!y take a ,fr5* prize--,! prison]s--,an al>m--,cadiz--,malta--,life on bo>d--,! ,d>danelles--,takes boat = ,con/ant9ople #a ,,*apt] ,,ii ,con/ant9ople--,capture ( ! ,black ,joke--,life 9 ,con/ant9ople--,its dang]s--,fri5ds--,audi5ce ( caimacam--,trip up ! ,bosphorus #ac ,,*apt] ,,iii ,con/ant9ople cont9u$--,dang]s ( sket*+--,turki% ar*itecture--,a ,turki% acqua9tance--,society 9 ,con/ant9ople--,visit to ! ,pr9ces' ,isl&s #bd ,,*apt] ,,iv ,leaves ,con/ant9ople--,by ,troy1 ,salonica1 ,mycone1 ,delos1 to ,a!ns--,life 9 ,a!ns--,acqua9tances--,byron1 c4 #dj ,,*apt] ,v ,trip to g9a--,discov]y & transportation ( ! ,m>bles to ,a!ns--,ef=ts to sell !m #di ,,*apt] ,,vi ,life 9 ,a!ns--,eleusis--,transportation ( g9a ,m>bles to ,zante #ei ,,*apt] ,,vii ,zante--,colonel ,*ur*--,leaves ,zante to make t\r ( ! ,morea--,olympia--,bass--,discov]y ( bas-reliefs--,=c$ to desi/ f excavations #fh ,,*apt] ,,viii ,&ritz5a--,c>itz5a--,megalopolis--,b5igh t$--,kalamata #gi ,,*apt] ,,ix ,trip to ,ma9a--,its relative prosp]ity--,return to ,kalamata-- ,second trip to ,ma9a--,murg9os--,sp>ta--,napoli to ,a!ns #hh ,,*apt] ,x g9a ,m>bles call$ = by ,briti% ,gov]nm5t %ips--,leaves ,a!ns = ,crete & ,egypt ) ,hon4 ,francis ,nor?--,canea--,condition ( ,crete--,by l&--,retimo--,kalipo ,*ri/o--,c&ia--,audi5ce ( ! pa%a--,8 b&--,! ar*bi%op--,! milit>y comm&ant--,turki% society--,life 9 ,c&ia #ajb ,,*apt] ,,xi ,exp$ition to ! ,labyr9?--,delli ,yani--,! int]ior--,! return to ,c&ia--,life !re--,rejo9s ,mr4 ,nor?--,bad wea!r--,exp$ition to ,egypt ab&on$--,scio--,leaves ,mr4 ,nor? to g to ,smyrna--,/orms--,dang] & cold--,arrives at ,smyrna #abj ,,*apt] ,,xii ,life 9 ,smyrna--,trip to ,trios--,fo/] falls 9 love--,cock]ell />ts alone = t[n ( ,sev5 ,*ur*es--,p]gamo--,knifni*-- ,sumeh--,comm]ce all 9 ! h&s ( ,greeks--,k>asman ,oglu--,turcomans --,s>dis--,allah ,%]i--,crosses f ,valley ( ,h]mus to t ( ! ,me&]--,hi]apolis--,dang] ( ! c\ntry--,turns we/w>ds #acd ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,back into civilisation--,nasli ,baz>--,nysa--,guzul--,hiss> 7,magnesia7--,! plague--,aisaluck 7,ephesus7--,scala ,nuova--,a /orm --,samos--,pri5e--,canna--,g]onta--,knid os--,rhodes--,mr4 ,nor? aga9--,sails = ,pat>a--,ca/el ,rosso--,cacava--,myra--,! %r9e ( ,/4 ,nicolas--,tr\bles ) natives--,a wat] snake--,f9ica--,c>osi-- ,olympus--,volcanic fire--,phaselis--,falls 9 ) ! ,fr$]ik/e5 #aec ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,adalia--,satalia 7,sid7--,alaia--,ho/ility ( natives--,sel9ty--,cape ,anemurium--,visit ( a pa%a--,*el9dreh--,porto ,cavali]o--,seleucia--,a private]--,natives ho/ile--,pompeiopolis--,t>s\s--,a poor reception--,explores a lake--,ca/le ( ,ayas--,capta9 ,beau=t w\nd$ by natives--,sails = ,malta #agc ,,*apt] ,,xv ,malta--,attack$ by bili\s fev]--,sails to ,pal]mo--,sege/e--,leaves = ,girg5ti--,immigrant ,albanians--,sel9unto--,travell+ ) ,sicilians--,girg5ti--,re/ores ! ,temple ( ! ,giants--,leaves = ,syracuse--,occupations 9 ,syracuse--,sale ( ! g9a ,m>bles--,leaves = ,zante #aii ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,a!ns--,! excavation ( m>bles at ,bass--,bron/$t's mi%ap--,fate ( ! ,cor9?ian capital ( ,bass--,sev]e illness--,/ackelb]g's mi%ap --,trip to ,albania ) ,hughes & ,p>k]--,!bes--,livadia--,! five emiss>ies--,/ate ( ! c\ntry--,m]*ants ( ,livadia--,delphi--,salona --,galaxidi--,patras--,previsa--,nicopol is--,arta--,! plague--,jan9a #baf ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,ali ,pa%a--,psallida--,euphrosyne--,mukht>-- ,/>ts = a trip to ,suli--,cassiopeia--,unable to =d riv]--,turns back to ,jan9a--,leaves to return to ,a!ns--,crosses ! ,p9dus ?r\gh ! sn[--,malaka% --,a robb]--,meteora--,turki% rule--,! mona/]y--,by ,trikhala1 ,ph]sala1 ,zituni1 ,!rmopyl & ,livadia to ,a!ns #bce ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,a!ns--,to ,zante = sale ( ,phigaleian ,m>bles--,returns to ,a!ns--,fev]--,sp5c] ,/anhope--,trip to ,m>a?on1 c4--,ramazan --,liv+ out 9 ! c\ntry--,a picnic at ,salamis--,pres5t$ ) a block ( ,pana!naic frieze--,trip to g9a--,leaves ,a!ns = ,italy #beb ,,*apt] ,,xix ,naples--,pompeii--,rome--,! ,g]man ,re/] got rid (--,social success 9 ,rome--,leaves = ,flor5ce--,b>?oldy & ! ,niobe gr\p--,lady ,dillon--,! ,well+ton ,palace--,pisa--,t\r 9 ! nor?--,meets ,/ackelb]g aga9--,returns to ,flor5ce & ,rome--,homew>d b\nd--,conclusion #bfi ,,frontispiece ,,portrait ,,( ,c4 ,r4 ,,cock]ell1 aft] a ,p5cil ,draw+ by ,j4 ,d4 ,,+res4 ,,travels ,,9 ,,s\!rn ,,europe ,,& ,,! ,,levant ,,*apt] ,i ,,leaves ,,london ,,= ,,plym\?--,,! ,,despat* ,,vessel--,,!y ,,take ,a ,,fr5* ,,prize--,,! ,,prison]s--,,an ,,al>m--,,cadiz--,,malta--,,life ,,on ,,bo>d--,,! ,,d>danelles--,,takes ,,boat ,,= ,,con/ant9ople4 ,i />t$ f ,london on ,saturday1 ,april ! #ad?1 #ahaj1 ) #bjjl4 9 my pocket to pay exp5ses4 ,by ! fav\r ( ,mr4 ,hamilton ,i 0 to c>ry out despat*es to ,mr4 ,adair1 our ambassador at ,con/ant9ople1 s ,i _h 9 prospect a free passage 9 fair security to ! fur!/ po9t ( my int5d$ j\rney4 ,z my good fri5d & ma/] 9 ,art1 ,mr4 ,r4 ,smirke1 accompani$ me to ,salisbury1 we loit]$ !re a little1 b = ! re/ ( my j\rney1 night & day1 ,i lo/ n "o mom5t4 ,nev]!less ,i _h =gott5 t :5 on ,gov]nm5t duty "o has no bus9ess to /op at all any:]e1 & :5 ,i 0 cross-exam9$ z to my j\rney by ! ,admiral ( ! ,port at ,plym\?1 ,i felt extremely awkw>d4 ,on ! morn+ foll[+ my arrival1 viz4 ,april #af?1 ,i emb>k$ on bo>d ! vessel :i* 0 to c>ry me4 ,%e 0 a lugg]-rigg$ despat* boat1 hir$ by ,gov]nm5t1 nam$ ! ,black ,joke4 ,%e 0 v old1 z %e _h be5 at ! battle ( ,camp]d[n 9 #agig1 b ,i 0 *>m$ ) h] neatness & tid9ess4 ,we _h t5 guns1 ?irty-five m51 "o %eep1 two pigs & f[ls4 ,! comm&]'s "n 0 ,mr4 ,cannady1 & we 7 tak+ out two "y mid%ipm5 to jo9 ! squadron (f ,cadiz4 ,we did n set sail till ! #ai?4 ,once out 9 ! op5 sea ! two "y mid%ipm5 7 v ill & s 0 our comm&]4 ,on ! ?ird day out1 ,sunday1 ,april #bbnd1 :ile we 7 at d9n] ! boatswa9 sudd5ly sang out1 ',sail ahead6' ,we ran up to see :at x might be1 & ! %ip 0 pron\nc$ to be a m]*ant brig4 ,at ! same "t1 to be prep>$ 9 case ( deception1 all ?+s 7 cle>$ = action4 ,x 0 n long be=e we came up ) h]1 & ! ma/] w5t abo>d4 ,pres5tly we he>d ! report ( two pi/ols4 ,great 0 our a/oni%m5t1 & ! expression ( susp5se on e face 0 a /udy till x 0 reliev$ by ! voice ( ! ma/] bawl+ ?r\gh a trumpet t %e 0 a ,briti% m]*antman1 ! ,frances1 f ,fiale 7sic71 lad5 ) cotton1 figs1 & o!r ?+s1 t %e _h be5 captur$ by a ,fr5* private]1 & 0 n[ our prize4 ,at ^! words ! joy ( ! sailors 0 su* z y _c conceive4 ,:5 ! ma/] came abo>d aga9 we le>nt t ! two %ots came f a brace ( pi/ols :i* 7 h&$ to him by ! capta9 ( ! ,frances :5 %e 0 bo>d$1 & :i* he dis*>g$ = fe> ( accid5ts4 ,! ,fr5* crew ( eight m51 all v ragg$1 0 br\ght on bo>d4 ,z !y manife/$ "s unwill+ness at fir/1 ,cannady ?\ght fit to receive !m ) drawn cutlasses2 b !y made no sort ( resi/ance4 ,) !m came an ,engli% boy1 son ( ! own] ( ! ,frances1 & f him we got an int]e/+ acc\nt ( h] be+ tak54 ,z 8 fa!r _h b a %ort "t be=e lo/ ano!r %ip1 ! boy %[$ a joy at ?is recov]y :i* 0 delightful to see1 b he behav$ v nicely ab\t recomm5d+ ! ,fr5*m5 to u4 ,!y _h treat$ him v well1 he said1 & 7 good sailors4 ,x 0 settl$ t ! prize ma/] %\ld be s5t ) ?ree or f\r m51 ! ma/]'s mate at _! head1 to ,plym\?4 ,i took ! opportunity ( s5d+ a few words home1 & (f %e w5t4 ,) a fair w9d %e 0 out ( sight 9 an h\r4 ,z ,i 0 ! only man 9 our %ip :o c\ld speak a ^w ( ,fr5*1 ,i 0 made int]pret] 9 exam9+ ! prison]s4 ,if ! acc\nt !y give is correct1 our sailors1 :o are entitl$ to an eigh? "p ( ! salvage1 w %>e #c1fdel4 #ajs4 #h;d4 ,i took an e>ly opportunity1 :5 ,cannady talk$ ( our luck & anticipat$ m1 to assure him t ! only good =tune ,i desir$ 0 a safe & quick passage to ,con/ant9ople1 = fe> he %\ld ?9k ,i 0 look+ out = prize-money4 ,i don't "k :at my %>e w\ld be1 if inde$ ,i h any1 b if ,i f9d ,i h1 ,i %all consid] h[ to dispose ( x 9 a h&some way4 ,! poor ,fr5*m5 7 v mis]able1 & ,i1 p>tly out ( pity1 & m because ,i want$ to practise speak+1 r made fri5ds ) !m4 ,!y are v diff]5t f our m54 ,!y l\nge ab\t anyh[ 9 a disord]ly fa%ion1 are mu* dirti]--9 fact fil?y1 s t our sailors compla9 ( !m l\dly 9 ?is respect--& are mu* liveli]4 ,i saw ?ree ( !m sitt+ ye/]day all ( a heap read+ ',tlmaque' 7fancy t67 ) ! utmo/ avidity1 & :5 !y see me draw+1 !y seem to crawl all ov] me to wat* ! op]ation4 ,my special fri5d is "o ,esprit ,aug91 :o appe>s to be sup]ior to ! re/ & to speak bett]4 ,we talk toge!r e day till ,i am tir$4 ,9 spite ( 8 grief at be+ a prison]--& he appe>$ to feel 8 position m ?an any ( !m--he began ! v next day to talk to me ( balls1 masqu]ades1 prom5ades1 & s on ) inexpressible delight1 & ,i ev5 ?\ght at "o mom5t t we %\ld h _h a pas seul on ! deck4 ,he sang me no end ( songs4 ,he 0 z va9 z he 0 lively4 ,i told him ,i %\ld l to make a draw+ ( a y\? nam$ ,jean ,requette1 a h&some1 clev]-look+ boy ( ! p>ty2 at :i* he sigh$ deeply & said1 ',moi je ne suis pas joli4' ,among/ o!r ?+s1 ,aug9 told u t he _h great hopes ( be+ set free aga91 = t !re 7 two ,fr5* private] frigates (f ,f]rol2 & :5 we came (f t po9t on ,sunday ! #bi?1 & ,i he>d ! boatswa9 s+ out ',two sail ahead1' we made sure we _h met !m4 ,all glasses 7 out 9 an in/ant1 & sure en\gh !re 7 two private]s4 ,too pr\d to alt] x1 we held quietly on our c\rse1 & !y came quickly up ) u4 ,we made ! private signals to !m1 b z ! sun 0 l[ & j beh9d !m we c\ld n make out ! answ] or :at col\rs !y flew4 ,!reupon ord]s 7 giv5 to cle> = action4 ,9 a mom5t all 0 activity4 ,! sailors /ripp$ to _! %irts4 ,! guns 7 run out4 ,greville & ,i load$ ! muskets & pi/ols4 ,e man _h 8 place4 ,m9e 0 at ! /]n 9 *>ge ( ! despat*es1 ready ti$ to a cannon %ot1 to s9k !m 9 case ( necessity1 & ) ord]s to make ! be/ use ,i c\ld ( ! muskets4 ,we 7 all ready by ! "t ! fir/ ( ! private]s came )9 speak+ di/ance ( u4 ,!re 0 a dead sil5ce on bo? sides = a mom5t1 a mom5t ( int5se susp5se1 !n our comm&] spoke !m1 & ! answ]1 to our delight1 came 9 ,engli%4 ,!y 7 ! ,iris & ,mat*less private]s f ,gu]nsey on ! look-out = ! ,isle de ,france m5 go+ into ,bordeaux4 ,a boat came abo>d u1 & ,i 0 n sorry t !y %\ld see our deck & t ,i knew h[ to take c>e ( despat*es4 ,x is wond]ful h[ ! animation ( prep>ations = fight+ takes away f ! natural fe>4 ,if ,i _h _h to look on )\t any?+ to d1 ,i %\ld h be5 9 a dreadful fright4 ,aft] ?is false al>m we w5t on to ,cadiz )\t any ev5t1 beyond meet+ ) occasional m]*antm51 :om we always ?\ght prop] to bo>d4 ,i c\ld n g a%ore at ,cadiz1 & ,i %all nev] cease to regret x2 b ! ord]s ( ! naval au?orities 7 p]emptory t ! lugg] %\ld proce$ imm$iately ) h] despat*es to ,malta4#a ,we deposit$ our prison]s ) ! fleet4 ,! next place ! ,black ,joke t\*$ at 0 ,gibralt>1 :]e %e deliv]$ lett]s & despat*es4 ,%e c\ld only /ay f\r or five h\rs1 b ,cock]ell 0 able to g a%ore4 ,z x 0 a m>ket day1 ! sc5e ,gibralt>1 & ?is 0 ! fir/ "t he _h ev] be5 9 a =eign c\ntry1 x is n to be wond]$ at t he 0 intoxicat$ ) delight4 ,he gu%es ov] x 9 ! /yle ( ! v "y travell]4 ,i l wat*+ ! sailors4 ,_m ( !m are v f9e fell[s1 & ,i h ne>ly fill$ my book ) draw+s ( !m & ! ,fr5*m54 ,self-consci\sness _h ! mo/ ludicr\s effect ^u !m :5 ,i 0 do+ _! portraits1 & great r\gh fell[s :o y might ?9k w\ld eat horsefle% w\ld simp] ) d[nca/ eyes1 l a coquetti% miss4 ,_! ways ( kill+ "t are wond]ful4 ,sometimes y see "o :ittl+ a piece ( h>d wood = "s trifl+ purpose = h\rs & h\rs toge!r4 ,at ano!r "t1 if an un=tunate little bird comes on to ! vessel1 !y run ab\t ! rigg+ damn+ its eyes till !y are tir$ out4 ,!re are "s great s+]s among/ !m1 :o treat u 9 ! ev5+s4 ,_! ta/e is to s+ ab\t two hundr$ v]ses to ! same tune4 ,i am told we h "o highly accompli%$1 :o c s+ a song ( ?ree hundr$4 ,i only hope we %all nev] he> him4 ,we arriv$ at ,malta ov]night & await$ despat*es1 :i* we h receiv$ ?is morn+4 ,ev]y:]e ! au?orities are s solicit\s t no "t %\ld be lo/ t we are s5t on )\t m]cy4 ,i am told ! despat*es we br\ght "h 7 ( consequ5ce2 b1 l all po/m51 we "k no?+ ( ! cont5ts ( ! lett]s we br+4 ,only we see t all rejoice & wi% ! comm&ant1 ,g5]al ,oakes1#b joy4 ,i also he> t ! ,fr5* are advanc+ on ,sicily4 ,! h>b\r "h is full ( prizes4 ,a frigate came 9 ?is morn+ full ( %ot holes4 ,%e _h cut out a brig f ,t>anto 9 ! face ( two brigs1 a s*oon]1 & a frigate4 ,f ,malta x took ! ,black ,joke ov] a mon? to get to ,con/ant9ople4 ,mo/ ( ! lett]s writt5 home dur+ ! "t 7 s5t back by ! ,black ,joke on h] return voyage4 ,x w be se5 :y !y nev] rea*$ _! de/9ation4 ,mean:ile "s notes 7 despat*$ by o!r means1 & f !m ,i extract ! foll[+3 ,we took a pilot f ,malta1 a decay$ ,ragusan capta94 ,_h ,i made b ! fir/ /eps 9 ,italian z ,i _h 9 ,fr5*1 ,i might h pr(it$ by ?is opportunity z ,i did by ! ,fr5* prison]s2 = ! man spoke no o!r language1 & 0 to direct u ?r\gh a dang]\s sea by signs & grimace z ! only means ( communication betwe5 u4 ,at fir/ we _h a fair w9d1 b z we got ne>] ! ,morea x became less fav\rable & blew u ne>ly up to ,zante4 ,"s anci5t writ] records ! say+ 9 8 day1 ',let him :o is to sail r\nd ,ta5>us 7,matapan7 take a la/ f>ewell ( 8 relations2' & x is /ill dang]\s1 on acc\nt ( ! eddies ( w9d ab\t ,taygetus = "o ?+1 & on acc\nt ( ! cruel ,ma9iote pirates = ano!r4 ,we pass$ x securely2 b ! /ory ( an ,engli% brig ( w> hav+ be5 bo>d$ & tak5 by !m :ile ! capta9 & crew 7 at d9n]1 & t n long ago1 put u on our gu>d4 ,we _h nett+s up at night1 & a %>p look-out at all h\rs4 ,i %all nev] =get h[ we made our entrance into ! ,hellespont ) sixte5 sail ( ,greek & ,turki% fruit-boats1 all go+ up to ,con/ant9ople4 ,no ya*t+ mat* c\ld be s pretty z ^! boats1 tack+ & *ang+ _! figures1 ) _! :ite sails1 pa9t$ sides1 & elegant =ms1 z comp>$ ) our nor!rn sea boats4 ,our sup]ior sail+1 h[ev]1 0 soon confess$1 & we w5t pa/ !m4 ,z we did s1 sev]al goodnatur$ly ?rew cucumb]s & o!r fruits on bo>d4 ,we ca/ an*or n f> f ! second ca/le ne> ! nor!rn side1 & put a%ore to wat] :]e we saw a spr+4 ,x 0 ev5+1 & "u ! %ade ( a f9e plane tree1 by a pool l9$ & edg$ ) m>ble1 be=e a f\nta9 ( elegant ar*itecture1 sat on v>iegat$ c>pets "s maje/ic ,turks4 ,!y 7 arm$ & ri*ly dress$4 ,_! compos$1 placid c\nt5ances seem$ unmov$ at our approa*4 ,"o ( !m spoke & made me a sign to draw ne>]4 ,i did s1 & ) an air at once c\rte\s & comm&+ he sign$ to me to sit ne> him & (f]$ me a long pipe to smoke4 ,aft] "s pause he put que/ions1 & smil$ :5 ,i c\ld n answ] !m4 ,by _! ge/ures & ! ^w ,+lis ,i saw !y 7 aw>e ( our nationality4 ,!y look$ approbation & admir$ ! quality ( my grey clo? coat4 ,aft] "s m9utes ,i rose & left !m ) a b[1 en*ant$ ) _! polit5ess1 & fancy+ myself 9 a sc5e ( ! ',arabian ,nights4' ,%ortly aft] we 7 visit$ by our consul & 8 son4 ,we le>nt lat] t !y 7 ,jews1 b _! h&some appe>ance impos$ completely on u1 &1 9 spite ( ! mixture ( ,jewi% obsequi\sness1 _! ,turki% dignity made u conceive a prodigi\s op9ion ( !m4 ,! consul und]/ood quickly t ,i 0 a milordo1 & tak+ f 8 pocket an antique intaglio he begg$ my acceptance ( x ) a mann] ,i 9 my innoc5ce ?\ght ,i c\ld n refuse4 ,i 0 anxi\s to %[ my s5se ( 8 c\rtesy by ! (f] ( a p\nd ( be/ ,d>t=d p[d]1 :i*1 aft] "s press+1 he accept$2 b at ! same "t add$1 s f> z ,i und]/ood ?r\gh ! int]pret]1 t he hop$ ,i did n mean to pay him = 8 intaglio4 ,i 0 ov]come ) confusion1 %ock$ at my own indelicacy 9 giv+ s co>se an expression to my gratitude1 & ,i w\ld h giv5 worlds to h undone ! :ole affair4 ,( c\rse my emb>rassm5t 0 p]fectly ne$less4 ,a little exp]i5ce ( !m taught me t ?is 0 only ! %all[ f9esse ( ! ,ori5tals1 & look+ back ,i h laugh$ to ?9k ( my +5u\s gre5ness at t "t4 ,! foll[+ day ,capta9 ,cannady & myself1 ) my despat*es & baggage1 ! ,black ,joke n be+ all[$ to approa* ! capital1#c emb>k$ 9 a ,turki% r[boat ) a reis & twelve m51 to g up to ,con/ant9ople4 ,n[ = ! fir/ "t ,i felt myself ?or\ghly divid$ f ,engl&4 ,! w9d & curr5t 7 aga9/ u1 & we 7 =c$ to put a%ore e>ly 9 ! ev5+ ( ! fir/ day4 ,i pit*$ my t5t on ! %ore opposite ,abydos4 ,x soon attract$ ! notice ( an aga :o appe>$ on a f9e ,arab horse1 & s5t a message to "k :o & :at we 74 ,we made a fire & /ay$ !re all night sitt+ r\nd x1 & ,i felt z if ,i 0 at ! !atre1 pass+ my fir/ night on =eign soil among /range be>d$ faces & curi\s co/umes lit up by ! flames4 ,i refus$ a b$ & slept on a rug1 b next day ,i ?\ght ,i %\ld h dropp$ ) fa9tness & fatigue4 ,i soon got accu/om$ to ly+ on h>d gr\nd1 &1 9 aft] times1 ,i h slept = _m a ?ree mon?s runn+ )\t ev5 tak+ (f my clo!s except to ba!1 or hav+ any o!r b$ ?an my pamplona or my pelisse4 ,! second night we slept at ,gallipoli1 & altoge!r1 ow+ to ! /rong w9d1 we 7 no less ?an five days gett+ to ,con/ant9ople4 ,our ,turks 7 oblig+ & *e]ful1 b _h v little air ( discipl9e1 & ! "w !y did !y seem$ to d by c\rtesy4 ,! reis 0 a grave1 mild old man1 :o sang u ,turki% songs4 ,we approa*$ ,con/ant9ople z ! sun rose1 & z x %one on its glori\s piles ( mosques & m9>ets1 gold5 po9ts & cresc5ts1 pa9t$ h\ses1 kiosks & g>d5s1 our ,turks pull$ h>d] at _! o>s1 %\t+ ',/amb\l1 guzel azem ,/amb\l6' ,! sc5e grew m & m brilliant z we drew ne>]1 till x became ov]:elm+ z we ent]$ ! cr[d$ port4 ,no?+ b my despat*es "u my arm recall$ me f a s5se ( be+ 9 a dream4 ,9 =ty days1 sp5t z x 71 9 ! ma91 9 ! sam5ess ( %ipbo>d1 ,i _h jump$ f sombre ,london to ?is fanta/ic p>adise4 ,i left my boat & walk$ at once to ! ,engli% palace ) my despat*es1 :i* ,i !n & !re deliv]$4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,! ,briti% fleet 0 at ?is "t co-op]at+ ) ! ,spani>ds 9 def5d+ ,cadiz aga9/ ! ,fr5*4 #b ,aft]w>ds ,sir ,hildebr& ,oakes1 ,b>t41 ,g4,c4,b4 ,s]v$ ) di/9ction 9 ,india1 ,egypt1 ,am]ica1 & else:]e4 #c ,no %ips ( w> 7 ev] all[$ up to ,con/ant9ople 9 ^? days1 &1 inde$1 mu* lat]4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,con/ant9ople--,,capture ,,( ,,! ,,black ,,joke--,,life ,,9 ,,con/ant9ople--,,its ,,dang]s--,,fri5ds--,,audi5ce ,,( ,,caimacam--,,trip ,,up ,,! ,,bosphorus4 ,my fir/ few days 7 sp5t 9 writ+1 execut+ commissions1 & fitt+ out my good ,cannady1 :o 0 to return ) ! answ]s to ! despat*es2 all z x turn$ out to no purpose1 = (f ,algi]s ! poor old ,black ,joke 0 tak5 by two ,fr5* private]s1 "o ( t51 ! o!r ( eight guns4 ,becalm$ (f t place1 %e 0 attack$ on ei!r side by ^! light] vessels1 :i*1 ) o>s & a sup]ior numb] ( m51 _h an irresi/ible advantage4 ,aft] be+ gallantly def5d$ by ,cannady1 %e 0 tak5 ) ! loss ( sev]al f9e fell[s1 & h] guns dism\nt$ 9 ! dis*>g+ !m1 = %e 0 a v old vessel4 ,) h] 7 tak5 a numb] ( little ,turki% purses & trifles1 s\v5irs to fri5ds at home1 & two f9e c>pets ,i paid #cjl4 =1 :i* 7 to h made a figure at ,we/b\rne#d--;,i _h made a pres5t ( ! same k9d also to our comm&]--& all my lett]s home & sket*es made up till !n4 ,mr4 ,adair#e & ,cann+#f h be5 v polite1 & ,i h d9$ frequ5tly at ! ,palace1 & al?\gh ?is is n ! sort ( society ,i v mu* covet1 ,i f9d x s extremely useful t ,i _c be too c>eful to keep up my acqua9tance !re4 ,mr4 ,cann+1 ( ^: k9dness on all occasions ,i _c speak too highly1 has oblig$ me exce$+ly 9 l5d+ me a l>ge collection ( fairly fai?ful draw+s ( ! int]iors ( mosques1 "s ( !m nev] drawn be=e1 z well z o!r curi\s build+s "h1 made by a ,greek ( ?is place4 ,9 copy+ !m ,i h be5 closely employ$1 z :5 ,mr4 ,adair leaves1 :i* w be %ortly1 !y w be s5t (f to ,engl&4 ,i _h a s*eme ( draw+ f w9d[s1 b x has fail$4 ,i f9d no ,jew or ,*ri/ian :o is bold en\gh to admit me into 8 h\se = t purpose1 s ,i h to "w f memory4 ,aft] hav+ made a memor&um1 ,i develop x at home1 & !n return aga9 & aga9 to make m notes1 till at l5g? ! draw+ gets f9i%$4 ,9 arriv+ "h j 9 "t to take advantage ( ,mr4 ,adair's firman to see ! mosques ,i 0 mo/ =tunate4 ,x is a fav\r grant$ to ambassadors only once1 & ,mr4 ,adair ?9ks himself lucky to get x be=e go+ away2 b ,i w tell y 9 confid5ce t ,i regret v little ! impossibility ( draw+ 9 !m4 ,!y seem to me to be ill-built & b>b>\s4 ,"l ,byron & ,mr4 ,hobh\se#g 7 ( ! p>ty4 ,! ,dj]id1 a mimic fight ) javel9s on horseback1 n[1 ,i believe1 entirely disus$ 9 ,turkey1 0 /ill ! fav\rite pa/ime ( "y ,turks1 & ,cock]ell speaks ( x z be+ con/antly play$ on ! high op5 gr\nd or p>k above ,p]a1 & ( 8 go+ to wat* x4 ,"o day ,i 0 p]suad$ by an ,engli% travell] ( my acqua9tance to g a walk ?r\gh ,con/ant9ople )\t our usual protection ( a janiss>y1 b ! adv5tures :i* befell u 9 consequ5ce made me v mu* rep5t ( x1 & put me a good deal out ( conceit ) ! ,turks4 ,we walk$ to ! gate ( ! ,s]aglio1 9 front ( :i* !re is a piazza ) a v beautiful f\nta9 9 x4 ,?is lovely object 0 s attractive t ,i c\ld n resi/ go+ up to x & exam9+ ! m>ble sculpture1 pa9t+1 & gild+4 ,h]eupon an old ,turk :o gu>d$ ! gate ( ! ,s]aglio1 (f5d$1 ,i suppose1 at my presum+ to come s ne>1 /rode up ) a long knott$ /ick & a volley ( language :i* ,i c\ld n und]/&1 b :i* x 0 easy to see ! drift (4 ,i %\ld h be5 glad to run away1 b 9 ! pres5ce ( ,turks & o!r by/&]s ,i resolv$ to fall a m>tyr r ?an compromise my nation4 ,s1 wav+ my h& 9 tok5 ( ass5t to 8 desire = my )drawal1 ,i sl[ly pac$ my way back ) z mu* dignity z ,i c\ld assume4 ,i he>d my ,turk beh9d com+ on fa/] & m noisy1 & ,i %all nev] =get ! screw+ up ( ! s9ews ( my back = ! expect$ bl[4 ,x did n fall1 or !re w\ld h end$ my travels2 =1 ei!r a/oni%$ at my coolness or satisfi$ ) my ass5t1 he desi/$4 ,a little fur!r on1 9 pass+ ?r\gh ! c\rt ( a mosque1 ,i 0 gaz+ at "s ( ! ar*itectural enri*m5ts ( x1 :5 ,i felt a viol5t bl[ on ! neck4 ,i look$ d[n1 & !re 0 a /urdy little figure1 ) a face full ( fury1 prep>+ to repeat ! dose4 ,he 0 ( su* indescribably droll proportions t 9 spite ( ! annoyance ,i c\ld h>dly help laugh+4 ,i held out my h& to /op him1 & at ! same "t "s ,turks luckily came up & appeas$ my assailant4 ,he 0 an idiot1 "o ( ^? to :om x is ! cu/om among ! ,turks to give _! lib]ty1 & :o are g5]ally1 x appe>s1 to be f\nd hang+ ab\t ! mosques4 ,"o m unpleasantness occurr$ 9 ! same un=tunate walk4 ,z we 7 look+ at "s c>pets1 ,i obs]v$ my s]vant ,dimitri gr[+ pale2 he said he 0 s weak he c\ld h>dly /&1 & he ?\ght he mu/ h caught ! plague4 ,i support$ him out ( ! baza>1 b aft]w>ds kept him at arm's l5g? till we got home1 s5t him to b$1 *ang$ f top to toe1 & smok$4 ,i 0 to h d9$ at ! ,palace1 b s5t & made my excuses4 ,meet+ ! ,engli% consul1 good old ,mori]1 ,i refus$ to %ake h&s ) him4 ,he1 h[ev]1 w\ld h none ( x1 laugh$ at me & c>ri$ me home to d9n] quietly ) him4 ,dimitri reappe>$ lat] on1 & all 0 well2 b ! day is memorable z hav+ be5 odi\s4 ,! usual sights ( ,con/ant9ople 9 #ahaj 7 ! same z n[--viz4 ! danc+ d]vi%es1 ! h[l+ d]vi%es1 ! ,turki% ba?1 & ! ,sultan's visit to ! ,mosque4 ,!y are :at e travell] has se5 & e "y "o ?\ght x 8 duty to give an acc\nt (1 & ,i %all n transcribe ,cock]ell's description ( !m4 ,only ! la/ c h be5 at all diff]5t f :at may be se5 n[4 ,x 0 rem>kable = ! />tl+ co/umes ( ! janiss>ies1 & = ! fact t in/ead ( a fez1 ! univ]sal & mean headdress ( to-day1 e ,turk wore a turban1 :i* made a cr[d wor? see+4 ,! janiss>ies wore a s+ul> cap1 f ! c5tre ( :i* sprang a tree ( fea!rs :i*1 ris+ to a c]ta9 height1 fell aga9 l a weep+ will[ & occupi$ an enorm\s space4 ,on ^! occasions ab\t fifty ( !m surr\nd$ ! ,sultan ) w&s 9 _! h&s1 & no d\bt _h a v /rik+ effect4 ,i h made sev]al useful fri5ds4 ,"o is a bro!r arti/1 ! ,greek :o did ! mosques = ,cann+4 ,we h paid ea* o!r sev]al visits1 & become fairly intimate by d9t ( dragoman1 mutual admiration1 & :at 0 a sup]b pres5t f me1 a little ,indian ink & two ,engli% p5cils4 ,he has be5 specially att5tive 9 8 visits "h1 hop+1 z he confess$1 to f9d out "s secret 9 ! art f su* a connoisseur z myself4 ,ano!r is an old g5tleman 9 a long grey be>d1 :o a few days ago walk$ into my room1 tell+ me he _h be5 induc$ to call ^u me by he>+ ( my great reputation4 ,he is an arti/1 & ,i %[$ him my col\rs & in/rum5ts1 ) :i* he 0 greatly delight$4 ,i h n yet return$ 8 visit1 b ,i am %ortly to d s1 & he is to introduce me to "s h\ses out ( :i* ,i c draw4 ,i h f\nd a mo/ elegant & useful fri5d 9 ! ,sicilian ambassador1 :o has _m beautiful books & draw+s4 ,! "y m5 ,i *iefly live ) are ,sir ,william ,+ilby2 ,fo/]1 an ,engli% ar*itect1 & a mo/ amus+ y\?2 & a ,mr4 ,*>naud1 son ( a consul at ,salonica4 ,we meet at d9n] v (t51 b !y are all1 ev5 ar*itect ,fo/]1 too idle to be companions any fur!r ?an t4 ,if ,i *ose ,i c\ld make numb]s ( acqua9tance among ! ,greeks & ,arm5ians1 :o all speak ,fr5*4 ,_! ladies are v agreeable1 b ! in=mation ,i %\ld glean among/ !m w\ld n pay = ! "t4 ,cann+ is v mu* lik$ "h among ! m]*ants1 ?\gh !y say !y w nev] get su* ano!r man z ,adair4 ,= me he is r too gr& to be agreeable4 ,?is is a mo/ int]e/+ "t among ! ,turks4 ,all is bu/le & ! s\nd ( arms 9 e /reet4 ,! ,gr& ,signor is go+ to ! ,russian w> next week4 ,8 procession w1 ( c\rse1 be a gr& sight1 b !y despond ?r\gh\t4 ,! ,turks h a prophecy t ! empire w expire ) ! la/ ( ! l9e ( ,mahomet1 & ! pres5t ,sultan has no *ildr54 ,! numb] ( troops pass+ to ,adrianople is incr$ible1 & su* b>b>\sness & total abs5ce ( discipl9e c\ld1 "o w\ld ?9k1 nev] h be5 kn[n ev5 9 ! ,crusades2 b !y are unbelievably picturesque4 ,a w>rior dispos$ to def5d 8 c\ntry 7= none are compell$2 only1 happily = ! empire1 ! ,turks are naturally incl9$ t way7 goes to ! ,gov]nm5t & dem&s :atev] he ?9ks w fit him out = ! purpose4 ,he gets #bjj or #cjj pia/res1 :i* is to f9d him 9 arms & ammunition4 ,^! w consi/ ( a brace ( pi/ols1 a broadsword1 & a musket1 m (t5 *os5 = its silv] inlay ?an = its effici5cy4 ,he is conf9$ to no p>ticul> dress4 ,he we>s :at he likes1 & goes :5 & h[ he likes4 ,! ,gov]nm5t f9ds him 9 provisions4 ,"o may see !m ev]y:]e ab\t1 repos+ 9 small p>ties 9 ! %ade or ne> a f\nta9 & look+ l b&itti1 :i*1 inde$1 if !y cat* y out ( sight ( ! t[n1 !y are4 ,!y commit ! mo/ wanton cruelties & robb]ies 9 _! m>*1 & at pres5t !re is no su* ?+ z travell+ 9 ! c\ntry4 ,z y meet ^! indep5d5t ruffians 9 ! /reet !y look at y ) ! mo/ sup]cili\s contempt & always expect y to make way = !m4 ,ev5 yet ! ,turks h n lo/ ! air ( invad]s1 & look ^u ! ,greeks z conqu]$ slaves1 :ile ^! feel x z /rongly z if !y _h j lo/ _! c\ntry4 ,! o!r day ,i w5t to sket* "s antiquities "u ! walls4 ,9 ! g>d5 ( a poor ,greek we ga!r$ "s fruit = :i* we meant to pay1 b ) ! greate/ k9dness he press$ u to eat m1 & fill$ our pockets ) cucumb]s1 say+ we 7 ,*ri/ians1 & he w\ld take no money4 ,! ,engli% h ! be/ reputation ( any ,franks 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,9 walk+ out ! o!r day our guide 0 insult$ by a drunk5 janiss>y4 ,on ! man's answ]+ him ! janiss>y came up1 ?reat5+ him ) 8 sword4 ,at ?is our man said he 0 surpris$ at su* behavi\r to an ,engli%man2 b ! janiss>y decl>$ he 0 a ,fr5*man1 & t unless he came & swept ! /reet :]e he 7! janiss>y7 sat we %\ld n pass4 ,=tunately ano!r janiss>y came up1 :o 0 n drunk1 & dragg$ him (f1 or !re is no kn[+ h[ ! dispute w\ld h end$4 ,i he> a great deal ( ,sir ,sidney ,smi?1 :o1 on acc\nt ( 8 gallant co-op]ation ) ! ,turks at ,acre1 has ga9$ ! ,engli% mu* cr$it4 ,any ,turk :o has ev] se5 him is pr\d ( x1 & :5ev] we meet a soldi] ! next "q to :e!r we are ,engli% is :e!r we "k ,sir ,sidney ,smi?4 ,i always say ',yes1' to :i* !y say ',buono4' ,! o!r day we ov]he>d a ,turk say+ t !re 7 b two ,g5]als 9 ! _w--,sir ,sidney ,smi? & ! "o-ey$ capta9 7,"l ,nelson74 ,! ,turks are s fond ( ,sir ,sidney = 8 we>+ a ,turki% dress1 z well z = 8 gallantry1 t he might d :at he pleas$ ) !m4 ,on ,july ! #cj? ,cann+ _h 8 audi5ce ( ! ,caimacam1 :o is sub/itute = ! ,gr& ,vizir :ile ! latt] is away ) ! army4 ,i ?\ght x my duty z an ,engli%man to att5d him to ! audi5ce1 & !re=e w5t to 8 secret>y to inquire if ,i 0 "r 9 ?9k+ s1 al?\gh no o!r ( ! ,engli% travell]s did1 & ,i suppose ,cann+ ?\ght ,i _h done rightly1 = he did me ! great hon\r ( ord]+ t ( ! pelisses pres5t$ to ! ,engli% g5tlem5 at ! audi5ce1 ,i %\ld receive "o ( ! f\r h&some/1 ! o!rs be+ ( v inf]ior quality4#h ,we rode ?r\gh ! /reets z be=e1 mu* admir$ by ! populace1 :o seem$1 9 ^! n>r[ /reets1 z ?\gh !y w\ld h fall5 on u f ! ro(s on :i* !y /ood4 ,on our way we met quantities ( soldi]s /raggl+ ab\t ! t[n1 wait+ = ! dep>ture ( ! ,gr& ,signor4 ,"o ( !m1 :o took c>e to let himself be well se51 9 bravado _h run 8 sword ?r\gh ! fle%y "p ( 8 %\ld]1 & held ! hilt 9 ! h& ( ! same arm4 ,:5 we saw x1 x _h be5 done "s h\rs1 = ! blood :i* _h escap$ f ! w\nd 0 clott$ & dri$4 ,we proce$$1 n to ! ,sublime ,porte1 = t has be5 burnt1 b to a palace :i* ! ,caimacam inhabits at pres5t4 ,"h we scrambl$ up a wide /aircase 9 a cr[d ( ,turks & o!r intrud]s :o _h no bus9ess 9 our tra94 ,! c]emony ( ! audi5ce 0 v %ort4 ,! ,caimacam appe>$ amid/ cries ( ',m>%alla6 ,m>%alla6' ,!n ,cann+ & he sat face to face & deliv]$ _! spee*es4 ,i ?\ght ,cann+ deliv]$ 8 ) a v manly good mann]4 ,aft] ! answ] _h be5 giv51 c(fee1 sweetmeats1 & ess5ce 7 br\ght to our m9i/] only1 & :5 we _h ea* put on our cloaks we return$1 z be=e1 to ,p]a4 ,i aft]w>ds d9$ at ! palace4 ,i h ?is mom5t he>d t ( sixte5 f9e sail ( ! l9e ,i lately saw 9 ! ,bosphorus ?ree are return$ disabl$4 ,! ,russians _h b five1 & two corvettes1 yet !y got ! be/ ( ! engagem5t4 ,x only %[s :at ! naval discipl9e ( ! ,turks is l4 ,buyukd]e4--,"h are ! c\ntry resid5ces ( all ! =eign ambassadors & m]*ants1 & h>d by1 at ,!rapia1 are ! palaces 7su* z !y are1 = ! ,turks all[ !m no col\r b black7 ( ! ,greek pr9ces4 ,i h tak5 a ride to see ! sc5es describ$ by ,lady ,m4 ,w4 ,montagu#i ab\t ,belgrade1 & 9 a gu% ( patriotic pride ,i sat d[n & made a c>eful sket* & plan ( :at ,i 0 told 0 h] h\se4 ,:5 ,i _h done x ,i f\nd to my disgu/ t x _h be5 built by h] husb&'s successor1 ,sir ,ri*>d ,worsley1#aj a v dull man1 ^: h\se c\ld int]e/ nobody4 ,i _h ,fo/] ) me z companion4 ,we w5t 9 a boat up to ! m\? ( ! ,black ,sea1 :]e x 0 v r\gh1 & 9 l&+ on "o ( ! rocks ,i 0 9 great dang]4 ,,footnotes3 #d ,8 fa!r's home1 ,we/b\rne ,h\se1 ,padd+ton1 a c\ntry resid5ce on ! site ( ! pres5t ,we/b\rne ,p>k4 #e ,! ,briti% ambassador1 aft]w>ds ,sir ,rob]t ,adair4 #f ,/rat=d ,cann+ 7#aggf-ahhj71 aft]w>ds ,visc\nt ,/rat=d de ,r$cliffe4 ,secret>y to ! ,embassy at ?is "t1 & lat] ! well kn[n ambassador to ! ,porte4 #g ,john ,cam ,hobh\se 7#aghf-ahfi71 aft]w>ds ,b>on ,br\ghton ,be/ man at ,"l ,byron's w$d+4 ,he 0 m ?an once a memb] ( ! ,gov]nm5t4 #h ,9 e pres5t f a ,turk to a ,*ri/ian !re is some?+ insult+ impli$4 ,:5 a =eign m9i/] is to be introduc$ at ! ,ottoman ,c\rt ! embassy is /opp$ 9 ! out] ap>tm5t ( ! s]ai1 & :5 ann\nc$ to ! ,despot 8 lit]al expression is3 ,fe$ & clo! ^! ,*ri/ian dogs & !n br+ !m into my pres5ce4 ,su* is ! real mean+ ( ! d9n] & pelisses giv5 to ambassadors & _! suites4--,beau=t4 #i ,lady ,m>y ,wortley ,montagu 7#afhi-agfb71 au?oress ( ! fam\s ,lett]s4 ,h] husb&1 ,edw>d ,wortley ,montagu1 w5t to ,con/ant9ople z ,briti% ,ambassador 9 #agaf4 #aj #agea-ahje4 ,travell] & collector ( antiquities4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,con/ant9ople ,,cont9u$--,,dang]s ,,( ,,sket*+--,,turki% ,,ar*itecture--,a ,,turki% ,,acqua9tance--,,society ,,9 ,,con/ant9ople--,,visit ,,to ,,! ,,pr9ces' ,,isl&s4 ,cock]ell's "m _h wi%$ him to take out an ,engli% mans]vant ) him1 b ! common s5se ( ! re/ ( ! family _h ov]rul$ ?is s*eme4 ,he writes1 !re=e1 speak+ ( a man he _h engag$ at ,con/ant9ople3 ,z a s]vant ,i ?9k ,dimitri w suit me v well4 ,he is well in=m$1 will+1 & civil1 kn[s all ! c\ntries ,i propose to visit1 is n extravagant1 & does n seem afraid ( dang]4 ,i mu/ confess he is v small1 b s mu* ! m is he subject to my fi/4 ,! wages he asks are enorm\s--#fjl4 a ye>--b ,i ?9k ,i %all get him = #del4 or #ejl41 & at t figure x w1 ,i ?9k1 be wor? :ile to engage him2 at any rate1 he w be bett] ?an su* an ,engli% lubb] z my "m propos$ ,i %\ld take1 :o w\ld h co/ me m & h be5 ( no use4 ,i f9d ,i am liv+ n[ = r ov] #gs4 #f;d4 a day1 s]vant includ$4 ,ev]y?+ is at lea/ z de> z 9 ,london4 ,! draw+s ,i told y ( are f9i%$1 & ,i am n[ do+ a set ( palaces1 s]ais1 c41 b ! difficulty & really ! dang] ,i h _h to incur to d !m y w\ld n believe4 ,z = insult1 a ,*ri/ian has always to put up ) t4 ,p]haps ! ,turks1 press$ z !y are by ! ,russians1 7 nev] 9 a m s5sitive or inflammatory condition ?an at pres5t1 nor ! c\ntry "u less discipl9e & ord]4 ,9 consequ5ce !y are m insol5t to1 & m suspici\s ( =eign]s ?an usual4 ,! o!r day ,i 0 9 ! upp] "p ( a %op mak+ "s memor&a ( a curi\s f\nta9 :ile my s]vant wait$ bel[ 9 a c(fee-h\se4 ,he assur$ me t no less ?an =ty ,turks came 91 "o aft] ano!r1 to ask :o 0 t infidel1 & :at he might be do+ !re4 ,aga91 ,i (f]$ "s bo/angis f five to t5 pia/res to admit me into a kiosk ( ! ,gr& ,signors1 n[ nev] us$4 ,! poor m5 trembl$ at ! risk1 b !y took u1 & we 7 oblig$ to /eal along z !y did1 m z if we 7 go+ to commit a burgl>y ?an visit a des]t$ palace4 ,z we 7 r[+ to x we saw a soldi] arm$ at all po9ts1 ) 8 arms b>e--a savage figure--r[+ by ! ,greek & ,arm5ian h\ses at ! wat]'s edge4 ,my s]vant knew 8 occupation well4 ,he 0 se>*+ aft] "s op5 door ?r\gh :i* he c\ld get into a h\se1 &1 if he f\nd ! ma/] ( x1 he w\ld dem& a hundr$ or two pia/res1 say+ he _h occasion = ! money z he 0 go+ to ! w>s4 ,! poor man w\ld h _h to submit2 to kill su* a robb]1 ev5 if he c\ld1 w\ld be to incur ! v5geance ( all 8 regim5t1 ) ! risk ( gett+ 8 h\se & half ! neighb\rhood burnt d[n4 ,! ,greek tav]n-keep]s d>e n op5 _! doors n[1 = ^! sc\ndrels swagg] 9 & eat & dr9k & refuse to pay4 ,! ,turks !mselves1 h[ev]1 are en?usia/ic ab\t ! army4 ,i saw ! o!r day1 z a colonel ( "o ( ! regim5ts 0 pass+ ?r\gh ,tophana1 ! p ru%+ =w>d to bless him1 & kiss+ ! hem ( 8 g>m5t4 ,!y l fight+ &1 ,i may add1 blood1 & cruelties to _! fell[-m52 al?\gh to animals !y are rem>kably humane4 ,! numb] ( p ) slit or o!rwise injur$ noses is a ?+ "o _c help rem>k+4 ,! o!r day ,i saw "o man :o _h pat*$ 81 :i* 0 /ill unheal$1 ) cotton1 & he 0 fann+ away ! flies f x4 ,:5 ,i walk$ up to ! gate ( ! ,s]aglio to see ! five tails#aa hang+ up1 !re 0 ! block ( /one on :i* ! heads ( (f5d]s are put1 & ! blood /ill !re4 ,to ar*itecture 9 ! highe/ s5se1 viz4 elegant con/ruction 9 /one1 ! ,turks h no pret5sion4 ,! mosques are always copies ( ,santa ,sophia ) trifl+ v>iations1 & h no claim to orig9ality4 ,! baza>s are l>ge build+s1 b h>dly ar*itectural4 ,! im>ets1 or hospitals1 are next 9 size 7!re are ab\t fifty ( !m 9 ,con/ant9ople1 9 :i* ,d',ohson says #cj1jjj p daily are f$71 b nei!r h !y any?+ arti/ic ab\t !m4 ,! aqu$ucts1 f9ally1 are ei!r rep>ations or imitations ( old ,roman "w4 ,^! are all ! build+s ( a p]man5t "*4 ,! dwell+-h\ses h ! air ( tempor>y habitations4 ,!y are con/ruct$ ma9ly ( wood1 & are divid$ into v few *amb]s4 ,turks eat & dr9k1 live & sleep 9 "o room4 ,! s(a is _! seat & _! b$1 & :5 t is full !y lay quilts1 :i* are kept 9 e room 9 cupbo>ds1 on ! floor1 & sleep ab\t 9 !m half dress$4 ,z ornam5ts to ! walls !y hang up _! arms4 ,!y live 9 ?is way ev5 9 ! highe/ ranks4 ,! m5 h no desire = privacy1 & ! wom5's ap>tm5ts are altoge!r sep>at$ (f4 ,! space cov]$ by ea* h\se is :at we %\ld consid] imm5se4 ,x has usually only "o /orey--nev] m ?an two4 ,! gr\nd floor1 us$ = /ables1 /orage1 & (fices1 /&s op5 on columns4 ,a /aircase1 (t5 outside1 leads up to an op5 balcony1 out ( :i* ! eff5di's ap>tm5ts op54 ,^! seldom consi/ ( m ?an ?ree--"o = audi5ce & = liv+ 92 ano!r = bus9ess1 ! secret>y1 c42 & ! ?ird = upp] s]vants1 ! prep>ation ( c(fee1 pipes1 c4 ,! h>em1 z ,i said1 is p>t$ (f by a high wall ) a sep>ate c\rt1 g>d51 &1 (t51 exit to ! /reet2 b all "o sees ( a h\se outside is g5]ally a high wall & a capaci\s door into a c\rt ) a hoodw9k %ade ov] x1 & ! g5tlem5's ap>tm5ts hang+ ov] "o end ( ! premises4 ,sometimes !re is a kiosk lead+ out ( ! gall]y to a r high] level :5 !re is a view to be got by x1 b ext]nally !re is no?+ pret5d+ to ar*itectural effect 9 ! private h\se ( a ,turk4 ,! really ornam5tal build+s 9 :i* any?+ t may be call$ ,turki% ar*itecture is display$1 are ! f\nta9s & ! gr& kiosks or summ] resid5ces4 ,! f\nta9s are commonly squ>e res]voirs1 ! f\r sides enri*$ ) m>ble1 c>v$1 panell$1 & gilt1 ) all ! res\rces ( g5u9e ,turki% ta/e4 ,! =ms are g5]ally fl[]s & fruits & texts f ! ,koran1 ) p]haps an inscription 9 memory ( ! f\nd]1 su* z ',dr9k ( my limpid wat]s & pray = ! s\l ( ,a*met4' ,! tank is cov]$ ) a dome & gilt cullices ) great eaves :i* ca/ a broad %ade ov] anyone :o comes = wat] or repose4 ,b ! mo/ *>m+ ?+s are ! kiosks4 ,y c imag9e no?+ slight] ?an _! ar*itecture is4 ,!y are entirely ( wood1 & ev5 ! mo/ ext5sive are f9i%$ 9 ab\t two mon?s4 ,!y display ! cu/oms ( ! ,sultans1 & !y are su* z y might imag9e f read+ ! ',arabian ,nights'--gold5 halls ) cupolas1 domes & cullices hang+ ov] pools ( wat]1 ) f\nta9s & little falls ( wat]1 all 9 ! g5u9e ,turki% ta/e4 ,moreov]1 al?\gh x is a subject no "o has hi!rto condesc5d$ to treat (1 !y d %[ an arti/ic ta/e 9 ! *e]ful disposition ( _! ap>tm5ts1 g>d5s1 c\rts1 & f\nta9s1 :i* is wor? att5tion4 ,! rooms are all s contriv$ z to h w9d[s on two sides at lea/1 & sometimes on ?ree1 & ! w9d[s are s l>ge t ! effect is l t ( a glass-h\se4 ,! ,turks seem to be ! only p :o prop]ly appreciate broad sun%9e & ! pleasure ( a f9e view4 ,un=tunately1 ! ,turki%1 :i* is some?+ l ! ,p]sian /yle1 only appe>s 9 ! ar*itecture4 ,z to decoration1 ,i 0 bitt]ly disappo9t$ to f9d t n[ !y h no mann] peculi> to !mselves ( ornam5t+ ^! fanciful int]iors4 ,!y are done 9 ! old ,fr5* cr9kum-crankum 8 ,l\is ,,xv4--,ed4 /yle by rascally r5egades1 & v badly4 ,on a gre5 lawn1 9 a %ady valley p>tly surr\nd$ by f9e trees1 p>tly hang+ ov] ! ,bosphorus to cat* ! cool ( ! sea-breeze1 !re /&s "o ( ! kiosks ( ! ,sultan1 a real summ]-h\se consi/+ ( "o room only1 ) sev]al small ent]+ rooms = ! ,sultan1 "o = 8 suite & "s small ones = s]vice4 ,?is is kn[n z ! ,*ebuble kiosk4 ,9 ! valley ne> are v>i\s m>ble columns put up to commemorate %ots made by ! ,gr& ,signor 9 practis+ at a m>k4 ,ano!r we saw 0 ! s]ai ( ! ,sultan's si/]4 ,x 0 at ! p]il ( ! poor g>d5]'s head1 & ,i 0 oblig$ to bribe him well = ! sight4 ,i 0 able to make a runn+ sket* ( ! place1 & to glance at ! furni%+1 :i* 0 all newly done up = ! ,sultana's reception4 ,! s(as 7 all spl5didly embroid]$ by native "w-p1 & !re 0 a magnific5t pr(usion ( ,lyons silk1 ! col\rs & ! gild+ on ! ceil+s & walls z brilliant z y c imag9e4 ,"o room 0 entirely1 z ,i 0 told1 ( gold plaque4 ,!re 0 fro/$ & emboss$ "w z a relief to ! col\rs1 & ! effect1 if v gaudy1 0 /rik+4 ,g5]ally ?is sort ( spl5d\r 9 ,turkey is exp5d$ on ! c>v$ ceil+s1 b 9 ?is case ! s(as & w9d[ frames 7 z ri* z ! re/1 & ! ni*es ) %elves = fl[]s on ei!r side ( ! entrance4 ,! ba?s1 :i* =m a pr9cipal feature 9 e s]ai1 are v elegant "h4 ,! pavem5t1 ! f\nta9s1 & ! pill>s are all m>ble1 & c>v$ & gild$ & pa9t$ besides4 ,b ! ap>tm5t :i* gave me mo/ pleasure is ! reception hall4 ,x has some?+ ! =m ( a cross1 ) a great oval c5tre :i* is #gb feet by #ea feet1 & to ! extremities1 look+1 "o on ! g>d51 ! o!r on ! port1 ! range is #aad feet by #aje feet4 ,i d assure y ! effect ( ! room1 ) its gorge\s ceil+ & ! susp5d$ *&eli]1 is en*ant+--q "o's ideal ( :at ought to be f\nd 9 ! ,ori5tal /yle4 ,i am told t ! ,sultana ent]ta9s h] bro!r "h by display+ all ! beauties ( h] h\sehold4 ,! mo/ lovely girls are assembl$ "h to dance1 & ! ,sultan wat*es !m f a w9d[ ) a gold grat+4 ,:5 ,sba/iani#ab assi/$ 9 ! def5ce ( ,con/ant9ople1 at ! "t ( ,admiral ,duckwor?'s =c+ ( ! ,d>danelles1 ! ,sultana invit$ 8 wife "h & receiv$ h] ) ! greate/ hon\rs4 ,on l&+ f h] boat %e 0 pass$ ?r\gh a cr[d ( eunu*s ri*ly dress$ 9 gold & silk1 & on ent]+ ! h\se %e f\nd ! /aircase l9$ ) ! mo/ beautiful "y wom51 :o h&$ h] up to ! pres5ce ( ! ,sultana1 :]e %e 0 ent]ta9$ ) sweetmeats1 danc+1 c41 z 0 ,lady ,m>y ,wortley ,montagu4 ,ne> ?is s]ai1 & communicat+ ) x1 is ! palace ( ! ,pa%a to :om ?is ,sultana 0 m>ri$2 & 8 liv+ "h is an extraord9>y exception to ! rule1 :i* is t ! husb& ( a ,sultana %\ld nev] be all[$ to live )9 tw5ty miles ( ! capital--= political reasons1 no d\bt4 ,:5 x is h] pleasure to see him %e s5ds him a note 9 a pocket h&k]*ief1 ! corn]s ( :i* are fold$ ov] ) a seal1 s t x makes a bag4 ,sometimes ! invitation is convey$ by a h9t3 a slave is s5t by ! passage ( communication to op5 ! door ( 8 ap>tm5t1 :i* ! ,pa%a w\ld p]fectly und]/&4 ,! o!r p>ts ( ! palace are entirely = ! use ( slaves4 ,!re are1 z appe>s to be usual 9 ,turki% palaces1 sev]al escapes1 & to ^! ,i look$ ) peculi> int]e/2 s9ce1 if we _h be5 caught1 !re is no kn[+ :at might h happ5$ to ! poor g>d5]1 or1 = ! matt] ( t1 to myself4 ,h[ev]1 we 7 n int]rupt$1 ,i paid him #cj pia/res & we slunk away toge!r4 ,we _h n got home1 h[ev]1 be=e we met ! boats ( ! ,sultana1 :i*1 if we _h /ay$ !re t5 m9utes long]1 might h surpris$ u4 ,x is n easy to get into any intimacy ) ,turks2 b if ,i h n se5 mu* ( _! society1 ,i h se5 m ?an any ( my fell[-travell]s h4 ,) ^? :o h no mann]s at all x is n difficult to get acqua9t$4 ,= in/ance1 an imam 7prie/71 a neighb\r ( ours1 (t5 drops 9 at ! d9n] h\r1 tak+ compassion on me :5 ,i am alone4 ,he plays at billi>ds1 dr9ks & swe>s1 & is v tr\blesome2 b he has a great respect = my art1 & my plans above all ?+s excite 8 a/oni%m5t4 ,i scrap$ acqua9tance1 too1 ) a ,turk ar*itect1 9 ! hope ( gett+ to see m palaces2 b he also is too great a rogue to keep company )1 = he gets drunk & /abs 8 fri5ds2 & z = 8 art he is n wor? cultivat+ = t1 = x is conf9$ to ! *isel & mallet4 ,& 8 promises are false promises2 = ) all my hopes ,i h nev] got him to %[ me any?+4 ,my specim5 fri5d hi!rto is ,beki-,beki ,eff5di1 :o seems to be a real ,turki% g5tleman4 ,he _h be5 br\ght up 9 ! ,s]aglio z "o ( ! att5dants on ! ,gr& ,signor1 & 8 mann]s /ruck me z v f9e1 hav+ a *e]fulness & reg>d = 8 visitors1 mix$ ) great dignity4 ,my ho/1 :o has already %[n me great k9dnesses1 pres5t$ me to him & expla9$ my mission4 ,he express$ himself mu* pleas$ to be made acqua9t$ ) an ,engli% travell]1 hop$ ,i 0 well1 lik$ ,con/ant9ople1 c41 & pres5t$ me ) a little bottle ( oil ( aloes1 ! sc5t ( :i* 0 nice4 ,we smok$1 ate sweetmeats1 & conv]s$ by int]pret]1 & aft] two mortal h\rs' /ay 7conceive su* a visit67 7 prep>+ to g :5 8 fa!r-9-law arriv$4 ,i 0 told x w\ld be grossly impolite to p]si/ 9 go+1 s we /opp$ on4 ,beki s5t 8 slaves =w>d to u%] 9 ! new arrival1 & !n /ood 9 a p>ticul> spot & position to receive him1 & t\*$ 8 g>m5t ) 8 h&1 :i* he !n kiss$4 ,he !n paid him ! highe/ m>ks ( att5tion1 inquir$ aft] 8 heal?1 c4 ,! fa!r !n walk$ up/airs1 att5d$ by two slaves1 "o on ea* side hold+ him "u ! arm1 z if assi/+ him1 al?\gh he 0 n at all old4 ,we /ay$ ano!r half-h\r1 & !n at la/ tore ourselves away4 ,9 return = tak+ me to see a c]ta9 palace1 ,beki begg$ me %[ him ! ,engli% embassy4 ,he accord+ly call$ on me on an appo9t$ day at t5 o'clock4 ,tak+ a h9t f my ho/ ,i _h a breakfa/ prep>$ :i* we %\ld call a solid d9n]2 & a p>asite liv+ 9 ! inn1 a common animal 9 ^! c\ntries1 assi/$ my p>ty4 ,my visitors made a big day ( x1 & got v m]ry ov] _! f>e1 dr9k+ copi\sly ( rum pun*1 :i*1 z x is n w9e1 is n =bidd5 to ! ,mussulman1 & at ! end paid me a /r+ ( complim5ts4 ,i pres5t$ my visitor ) "o ( ^? new phosphoric contrivances 8 a t9d]-box4--,,ed41 & nev] 0 an eff5di m delight$4 ',if y _h giv5 me a casket ( jewels1' said he1 ',i %\ld n h be5 bett] pleas$4' ,we walk$ up to ! embassy & saunt]$ ab\t ! rooms4 ,:at be/ pleas$ ,beki 7 ! pictures ( ! ,k+ & ,que51 :i* he pron\nc$ v beautiful 7,*\k ,guzul71 & ! cut-glass *&eli]s2 b ! few w9d[s seem$ dull to 8 ,turki% ta/e4 ,we got home & regal$ aga91 & on 8 proposal to retire1 ,i return$ him 8 complim5t & begg$ him to /ay & sleep1 :i* ,i am happy to say he refus$1 = :]e we %\ld h /[$ him ,i "k n4 ,s pass$ an idle1 odi\s day4 ,i 0 worn out ) try+ to d ! agreeable ?r\gh an int]pret]1 b--,i _h se5 a ,turki% g5tleman4 ,& :5 ,i reflect ^u him1 ,i _c help feel+ t1 z a contra/ to :at ,i am accu/om$ to1 !re 0 some?+ v fasc9at+ ab\t him4 ,i h be5 us$ to see m5 slaves to _! affairs1 /ill we>+ !mselves ) "w :5 !y possess e requisite ( life1 & n kn[+ h[ to enjoy ! bless+s _! ex]tions h procur$ !m4 ,:]eas "h 0 a man :o calmly enjoy$ :at he _h1 do+ 8 be/ to make himself & ^? ar\nd him happy4 ,) any b absolute paup]s cont5tm5t is ! common frame ( m9d 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! poor tradesman 9 ! baza> works 8 h\rs ( bus9ess1 & !n sits cross-legg$ on 8 %op-bo>d & enjoys 8 pipe l an emp]or4 ,!re is no mean cr+e+ = patronage4 ,! v port]s 9 _! s]vices h an air ( condesc5sion1 & nev] seem to feel inf]iority4 ,! climate1 ( c\rse1 has a great deal to d ) x4 ,"o may sleep 9 ! op5 air mo/ ( ! ye>1 & if "o does little "w1 a bit ( wat]-melon & slice ( bread dipp$ 9 salt & wat] is an excell5t repa/4 ,temp]ance is h>dly a virtue :]e ri* food c\ld only make "o unwell4 ,:atev] be ! attraction--! t5ets ( ! ,fai?1 or ! leisurely life1 or ! desire to live 9 ,turkey )\t ! inconv5i5ces ( noncon=mity--conv]sion to ,mahomm$anism is a v common ?+4 ,i h met sev]al ,fr5* r5egades1 & "s ,engli% h be5 po9t$ out to me4 ,our frigates h frequ5t qu>rels ) ! ,turks on ?is head2 & ev5 ( ! ,spani>ds1 :o are suppos$ to be s bigot$1 an incr$ible numb] turn$ ,turks at ! "t t _! %ips ( w> fir/ came up "h4 ,z = society among/ ! =eign]s1 diplomatic & o!rs1 al?\gh !re is a complete ,frank qu>t]1 & x is said to h be5 at "o "t v pleasant1 !re is h>dly any n[4 ,= "o ?+1 9 ^! times ( g5]al w>1 ! m9i/]s ( c\ntries at v>iance at home n[ hold no communication1 nor d _! families2 9 ! case ( ! ,fr5* ?is is by a p]emptory ord] ( _! ,gov]nm5t4 ,s !re is little meet+ & next to no ent]ta9m5t1 & = lack ( o!r amusem5t a va/ deal ( sc&al1 ( m9+ & c\nt]m9+ ( ea* o!r's reputations1 ) ! result t !y come to be ne>ly z mean 9 "* z !y try to make ea* o!r out to be2 & ano!r reason is t among ! m]*ants :o =m]ly vi$ 9 magnific5ce ) ! m9i/]s1 !re is n[ great di/ress1 & h>dly "o c\ld give a dec5t d9n]4 ,_! %ips lie rott+ 9 ! ports1 & ! h&s1 ,ragusans mo/ly1 hang ab\t gnaw+ _! f+]s ) hung]4 ,among ! few families "o c\ld visit 0 t ( ! ,*>n[skis1 ,poles1 ! ladies ( :i* are ! admir$ ( all ! ,engli% "h1 & especially ( my two companions1 ,sir ,w4 ,+ilby & ,fo/]1 :o h fall5 completely "u ! ?umbs ( ^! beautiful sir5s4 ,i saw en\gh ( !m to feel compassion = my fri5ds & almo/ to ne$ x myself4 ,ano!r family we "k1 ( ! "n ( ,hubs*1 :o are amus+4 ,! ,b>on1 z he /yles himself1 is a sort ( m9i/] ( a numb] ( little ,p[]s :i* h no e>?ly relation ) ! ,turks1 z ,d5m>k1 ,prussia1 ,norway1 c41 & z he hoi/s all _! flags ov] 8 h\se1 ! ,turks believe him to be a v mighty p]son4 ,he affects to be 9 ! secrets ( all ! ,cab9ets ( ,europe1 & assumes an air ( prodigi\s my/]y 9 politics4 ,he is bank] & manag] ( all ?+s & all p]sons :o w be impos$ ^u by him4 ,i imag9e him to be a regul> adv5tur]2 b adv5tur]s are common 9 ,con/ant9ople4 ,x seems to be "o ( _! la/ resorts4 ,f notes 9 a sket*-book x appe>s t 9 ! int]val betwe5 ! writ+ ( ?is lett] & ! next1 :i* is dat$ f ,salonica1 my fa!r made an exp$ition to ! ,pr9ces' ,isl&s1 9 ! ,sea ( ,m>mora1 9 company ) ,fo/] & a ,mr4 ,hume1#ac :o _h lately return$ f ,egypt4 ,8 object 9 go+ 0 *iefly to visit ! sc5e ( ! dea? ( 8 c\s91 ,george ,belli1 ,r4,n41 lieut5ant ( ! ,royal ,george1 :o 0 kill$ ) f\r sailors ( ,admiral ,duckwor?'s fleet 9 attack+ a mona/]y held by "s ,turks on ! ,isl& ( ,*alcis4 ,an entry made on ! same day gives "o "s idea ( ,turki% misgov]nm5t4 ,on ! ,pr9ces' ,isl&s !y h lately discov]$ an excell5t e>? = mak+ crock]y2 b !y d>e n use x1 = fe> ! au?orities %\ld get e> ( x & heavily tax !m4 ,) su* enc\ragem5t to indu/ry1 no wond] t ,turkey %\ld be bankrupt4 ,a man's c>e] is imm5sely influ5c$ by 8 p]sonal appe>ance4 ,my fa!r's passport1 made out at ?is "t at ,con/ant9ople = 8 voyage 9 ! ,levant1 gives1 z 0 usual 9 ^? days1 = id5tification1 a description "u sev]al pr9t$ heads1 z /ature1 face1 eyes1 c41 ( ! be>]4 ,x is a l>ge =m pr9t$ 9 ,italian1 beg9n+ ,noi ,/rat=d ,cann+ m9i/ro pl5ipot5zi>io di sua ,mae/ il re della ,gran ,bretagna1 & s on pres5tly to ,cock]ell's "n & ! date1 #h ,septemb]1 #ahaj4 ,at ! bottom is ! description--,/atura1 mezzana2 viso1 triangol>e2 oc*i1 negri e spl5d5ti2 naso1 f9o2 bocca di v]miglia2 fronte1 di m>mo1 & bel[ 9 somma ,apollo lui /esso4 ,?is 0 ,cann+'s jocose extravagance4 ,nev]!less x indicates t ! be>] possess$ a =tunate ext]ior1 :i* _h probably some?+ to d ) ! good reception he g5]ally met ) 9 society ?r\gh\t 8 life4 ,,footnotes3 #aa ,horse-tail /&>ds1 ! symbols ( ! sultan's rank4 #ab ,franois ,horace ,ba/i5 ,sba/iani 7#aggb-ahea71 a ,corsican adh]5t ( ,napoleon1 "u :om he rose to be g5]al ( division4 ,9 #ahjf he 0 s5t z ,ambassador to ,con/ant9ople4 ,lat] he f\ght 9 ,spa91 ,au/ria1 ,russia1 ,g]many1 & ,france 9 #ahad4 ,aft] ! fall ( ,napoleon he took s]vice "u ! ,b\rbons1 0 ,m9i/] ( ,m>9e & ,m9i/] = ,=eign ,affairs "u ,l\is ,philippe1 ,ambassador to ,engl&1 #ahce-ahdj1 & 0 made f9ally a m>%al ( ,france4 #ac ,joseph ,hume 7#aggg-ahee71 a ,scot*man ( humble orig94 ,hav+ made money 9 ,india1 he took to political life1 sat 9 ,p>liam5t = v>i\s con/itu5cies1 & = ?irty ye>s 0 lead] ( ! ,radical p>ty4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,leaves ,,con/ant9ople--,,by ,,troy1 ,,salonica1 ,,mycone1 ,,delos1 ,,to ,,a!ns--,,life ,,9 ,,a!ns--,,acqua9tances--,,byron1 ,,etc4 ,ab\t ! middle ( ,septemb]1 ,cock]ell1 ) ,+ilby#ad & ,fo/]1 set sail = ,greece4 ,!y /opp$ on _! way to pay a visit to ! ,pla9 ( ,troy4 ,! facilities = travell+ n[adays h made u calmly famili> ) ! sc5es ( ! pa/1 b 9 #ahaj to /& ^u classic gr\nd 0 to plant "o's feet 9 a fairyl& ( romance1 & a travell] :o _h got s unusually f> might well p]mit 8 en?usiasm to f9d v5t4 ,:5 ,cock]ell 0 po9t$ out ! tomb ( ,patroclus1 he took (f 8 clo!s &1 9 imitation ( ,a*illes1 ran ?ree times r\nd x1 nak$4 ,!nce !y w5t by ,t5$os & ,lemnos to ,salonica4 ,no?+ 9 ! notes ( ?is j\rney is wor? record+ except p]haps ! m5tion he makes ( ,t5$os z be+ /ill 9 a /ate ( desolation f ! cruel ,russian attack ^u x 9 ! ye> #ahjg4 ,i ought to give y a notion ( ! political /ate ( ?is "p ( ! c\ntry4 ,ali ,pa%a ( ,yan9a rules ov] ! ,morea1 ,albania1 & ,!ssaly ne>ly up to ,salonica1 :ile ! ,pa%a ( ,s]res has ,salonica & ,mac$onia ne>ly up to ,con/ant9ople1 & bo? are practically indep5d5t ( ! ,porte1 obey+ x or assi/+ x only z f> z !y please4 ,n[1 ,ali ,pa%a has s5t 8 son ,veli ) #ae1jjj m5 to jo9 ! ,sultan's army aga9/ ! ,russians1 b he on 8 way has encamp$ ne> ,salonica & ?reat5s to take possession ( x4 ,! ,bey accord+ly pays e sort ( c\rt to him1 & s5ds out pres5ts & provisions to mollify him4 ,9 ! mean:ile ! ,sultan has giv5 to ano!r pa%a a firman to take ! ,morea 9 ,veli ,pa%a's abs5ce1 & he 7,veli7 is n[ wait+ = 8 fa!r ,ali's advice z to :e!r he %\ld proce$ to ! w>1 recov] ! ,morea1 or take ,salonica4 ,fancy1 :at a /ate = a c\ntry to be 96 ,! ,sultan is a puppet 9 ! h&s ( ! janiss>ies1 :o on _! side are p[]less outside ! city1 s t ! c\ntry )\t & )9 is 9 a /ate ( an>*y4 ,! p>ty took a passage f ,salonica to ,a!ns 9 a ,greek m]*antman4 ,we pass$ ,zagora1 until lately a ri* & prosp]\s comm]cial t[n1 b x has be5 tak5 by ,ali ,pa%a & he has r$uc$ x to utt] ru94 ,(f ,scopolo a boat came out & fir$ a gun = u to heave to4 ,! crew told me %e 0 a pirate1 b :5 we fir$ a gun 9 return to %[ t we also 7 arm$1 ! crew ( ! boat m]ely wi%$ u a happy j\rney4 ,! w9d fall+ light1 we an*or$ 9 a small bay & l&$1 & !re we made fire 9 a cave & cook$ our d9n]4 ,x 0 mo/ romantic4 ,aft] t\*+ at ,scyros1 we put into ,&ros4 ,:ile our %ip 0 ly+ "h 9 ! port our sailors became mut9\s4 ,!y began by /eal+ a pig f ! l&1 & !n w5t on to ransack our baggage & /eal f x knives1 clo!s1 & o!r ?+s4 ,all ?is happ5$ :ile we ourselves 7 on %ore1 b our s]vants remon/rat$1 :]eupon ! sc\ndrels ?reat5$ to ?r[ !m ov]bo>d4 ,!re 0 no?+ = u to d b apply to ! ,engli% consul = protection4 ,he s5t = ! *ief in/igator ( ! tr\bles1 b he1 z soon z he got a%ore1 ran away & 0 lo/ sight (4 ,"u ! circum/ances1 :at we did 0 to d$uct f ! capta9's pay ! value ( our losses & %ift our goods f on bo>d 8 vessel into ano!r boat1 a small "o1 9 :i* we set sail = ! isl& ( ,t9os4 ,we slept at ,san ,nicolo on ! b>e gr\nd1 hav+ made ourselves a fire 9 a t9y *apel4 ,fop1 my dog1 fell into a well & 0 rescu$ ) great difficulty4 ,"o ( ! peasants1 :o _h nev] se5 any?+ l a ,skye t]ri] be=e1 :5 he saw him pull$ out took him = a fi5d or a gobl91 & cross$ himself dev\tly4 ,we sail$ 9 ! op5 boat all ?r\gh a v /ormy day1 & arriv$ at la/ at ,t9os 7! t[n71 ?or\ghly *ill$ & wet4 ,! isl&1 once highly prosp]\s1 is n[ poor & depopulat$4 ,f ,t9os we sail$ across to ,great ,delos 7,rh5ea71 slept 9 a hut1 & next day w5t on to ,little ,delos4 ,"h !re 0 no?+ to sleep 9 b ! sail ( ! boat1 & no?+ to eat at all4 ,ev]y?+ on ! isl& _h be5 b\ght up by an ,engli% frigate a few days be=e4 ,we 7 oblig$ to s5d across to ,great ,delos = a kid1 :i* 0 kill$ & roa/$ by u 9 ! ,temple ( ,apollo4 ,i sp5t my "t sket*+ & measur+ ev]y?+ ,i c\ld see 9 ! way ( ar*itectural rema9s1 & copy+ e inscription4 ,i _h to "w h>d1 b )\t h\se or food we c\ld n /op :]e we 71 & 9 ! ev5+ we sail$ to ,mycone4 ,next day ,i w5t back to ,delos1 & aft] mu* consid]ation resolv$ to try to dig !re4 ,i _h to sleep 9 ! op5 air1 = ! company ( ! digg]s 9 ! hut 0 too mu* = me4 ,fir/ ,i made out ! columns ( ! temple & drew a re/oration ( ! plan4 ,!n we w5t on digg+1 b discov]$ next to no?+--a beautiful fragm5t ( a h&1 a dial1 "s glass1 copp]1 lead1 c41 & va/ masses ( m>ble *ips1 z ?\gh x _h once be5 a m>ble-mason's %op4 ,at la/ x seem$ to promise s little t ,i gave x up & w5t back to ,mycone2 b on ! #bh?1 n lik+ to be beat51 ,i w5t back alone to h a la/ look4 ,b ,i c\ld discov] no indications to make fur!r digg+ hopeful1 s ,i came away4 ,f ,mycone ! travell]s sail$ to ,syra1 & f !nce to ,zea1 :]e !y /ay$ "s days at lea/2 = !re is 9 ,bron/$t's ,voyages et re*]*es en ,grce a draw+ by my fa!r ( a colossal lion :i* mu/ h be5 made at ?is "t4 ,+ilby _h left !m1 b my fa!r & ,fo/] mu/ h arriv$ 9 ,a!ns ab\t ! beg9n+ ( ,decemb] #ahaj4 ,n long aft] he made acqua9tance ) a bro!r craftsman1 ,b>on ,hall] von ,hall]/e91 a /udi\s & accompli%$ arti/1 ab\t f\rte5 ye>s 8 s5ior1 & a g5tleman by bir? & nature2 altoge!r a valuable companion4 ,! two /ruck up a great intimacy1 & h5ce=? 7 insep>able4 ,!y c\ld be ( s]vice to ea* o!r4 ,hall] 0 travell+ on a v small all[ance f 8 patron1 ,pr9ce ,l\is ( ,bav>ia2 & my fa!r1 :ile he pr(it$ by ! company ( a man ( great] le>n+ & exp]i5ce1 0 able 9 return to add to 8 com=t by gett+ commissions = him to d draw+s = "s ( 8 ,engli% fri5ds1#ae & 9 o!r ways supplem5t+ 8 means4 ,he _h come to ,a!ns f ,rome ) "o ,l9ckh1 a pa9t] f ,cann/adt1 ,b>on ,/ackelb]g1#af an ,e/honian f ,revel1 ,bron/$t1#ag a ,dane1 & ,koes1 ano!r ,dane1 all ( !m accompli%$ m51 s]i\sly engag$ 9 antiqu>ian /udies4 ,toge!r !y =m$ a society suit$ to my fa!r's ta/es & pursuits4 ,9 ! way ( ,engli%m5 !re 7 ,messrs4 ,graham & ,hayg>? & ,"l ,byron1 all ?ree "y ,cambridge m5 ( =tune1 ) :om1 especially ! two fir/1 he 0 intimate4 ,8 only o!r fri5ds1 except ,greeks1 7 ,fauvel1 ! ,fr5* consul1 :o _h ta/e & in=mation1 & 0 own] ( a good collection ( ,greek antiquities2 & ,lusi]i1#ah ! ,italian draughtsman to ,"l ,elg91 an individual ( indiff]5t "*4 ,a!ns 0 a small place4 ,!re 0 a khan1 ( c\rse1 b no?+ 9 ! %ape ( an hotel4 ,! bett] class ( travell]s liv$ 9 lodg+s1 ! be/ kn[n ( :i* 7 ^? ( ,madame ,makri1 a ,greek lady1 ! wid[ ( a ,scot*man ( ! "n ( ,macree1 :o _h be5 ,briti% consul 9 ,a!ns 9 8 day4 ,%e _h ?ree pretty daught]s kn[n to travell]s z les ,consul9es or les trois ,grces1 ( :om ! elde/ 0 immortalis$ z ! ,maid ( ,a!ns 9 a mu* ov]rat$ lyric by ,"l ,byron1 :o 0 "o ( _! lodg]s4 ,z !y 7 go+ to /op "s "t 9 ! t[n1 in/ead ( go+ into an ap>tm5t1 ,fo/] & my fa!r took a h\se toge!r4 ,!re is h>dly any?+ t c be call$ society among ! ,greeks4 ,i "k a few families1 b ,i v r>ely visit !m1 = su* society z !irs is hateful4 ,z = ! ,greek m51 9 _! slav]y !y h become utt]ly contemptible1 bigot$1 n>r[-m9d$1 ly+1 & trea*]\s4 ,!y h no?+ to d b pull _! neighb\rs' *>act]s to pieces4 ,retir$ z ,i am1 y w\ld h>dly believe !re is n a ?+ ,i d t is n kn[n & worse repres5t$4 ,apropos ( an act ( insol5ce ( ! ,disd> aga's 7:i* ,i made him repair be=e ! waiwode1 ! gov]nor ( ! t[n71 ,i he>d t x 0 report$ t ,i _h be5 ba/9ado$4 ,?is report ,i _h to answ] by spread+ ano!r1 viz4 t ,i %\ld promptly %oot anyone1 ,turk or ,*ri/ian1 :o %\ld v5ture to lay a h& ^u me4 ,?is _h its effect1 & ,i he>d no m ( ba/9ado+4 ,i d n ?9k we are 9 mu* dang] "h4 ,! ,franks are highly e/eem$ by ! gov]nor1 & ! ,engli% especially4 ,! o!r day we witness$ ! dep>ture ( ! old waiwode & ! arrival ( ! new4 ,j z ! =m] 0 leav+1 ! h]oes f ! ,russian w> arriv$1 br[n & du/y4 ,! lead+ man c>ri$ a bann]4 ,z !y came into ! c\rt !y 7 receiv$ ) dis*>ge ( pi/ols1 & embrac$ by _! old fri5ds ) great demon/rations4 ,i 0 v mu* affect$4 ,i he>d aft]w>ds t ! rogues _h nev] be5 fur!r ?an ,s(ia1 & _h nev] smelt any p[d] b t :i* _h gone to ! kill+ ( "o ( !m by 8 companion 9 a brawl4 ,s mu* = my feel+s4 ,! outgo+ waiwode 0 escort$ by ! new "o ) great c]emony z f> z ! sacr$ wood4 ,m>* #ac is ! ,turki% ,new ,ye>'s ,day1 & is a great fe/ival ) !m4 ,! wom5 g out to ,asomatos & dance on ! grass4 ,m5 are n admitt$ to ! p>ty1 b ,greek wom5 are4 ,l9ckh1 ,hall]1 & ,i w5t to see !m f a di/ance1 tak+ ) u a glass1 ! bett] to see !m4 ,we 7 discov]$1 & "s ,turki% boys1 _m ( :om 7 arm$1 came 9 great =ce t[>ds u1 & began to ?r[ /ones at u f "s way (f4 ,in/ead ( retreat+1 we /ood up to receive !m1 :i* r intimidat$ !m1 & !y /opp$ ?r[+ & came up4 ,we laugh$ ) !m1 :i* 9 "s measure assuag$ !m1 & :5 "s "o said ',bak%i%' we gave !m "s to scramble =1 & s by degrees retir$4 ,"s ( ! ,greek & ,turki% wom5 laugh$ at u = be+ driv5 (f by boys2 b x 0 a dang]\s ?+ s to (f5d national prejudices1 & ,i 0 v well pleas$ to be out ( x4 ,at be/ ours 0 an +lori\s position4 ,fo/] has receiv$ a love lett]3 a p>a ) a hole 9 x1 a morsel ( *>coal1 & a piece ( ! silk su* z ! wom5 tie _! hair )4 ,?is la/ signifies t ! s5d] is r$uc$ to ! la/ extremities ( love1 & ! idea is t a sympa!tic passion w arise 9 ! receiv] & make him discov] ! s5d] )9 n9e days4 ,^! love lett]s are common to all ! ,ea/1 n to ,turkey only4 ,lady ,m>y ,wortley ,montagu gives an acc\nt ( "o consi/+ ( "s doz5 or tw5ty symbols1 b %e says %e believes !re are a million ( recognis$ ones4 ,common p1 h[ev]1 7 probably cont5t$ ) v few4 ,accord+ to h]1 hair 7& ,i suppose t :i* ties ! hair7 means1 ,cr[n ( my head2 coal1 ,may ,i die & all my ye>s be y\rs2 gold wire1 ,i die1 come quickly4 ,s ,fo/]'s lett] reads1 ,cr[n ( my head1 ,i am y\rs2 come quickly4 ,april #aa?4--,"l ,byron emb>k$ to-day on bo>d ! transport 7:i* is c>ry+ ,"l ,elg9's ,m>bles7 = ,malta4 ,he takes ?is lett] ) him1 & w s5d x on to y1 ,i tru/1 imm$iately on 8 arrival 9 ,engl&4 ,i mu/ close1 z he is j (f = ! ,piru4 ,! %ip did n leave ! port1 h[ev]1 = "s days1 z we %all see bel[2 & besides ?is delay1 ,"l ,byron 0 laid up :5 he got to ,malta & only arriv$ 9 ,engl& 9 ,july1 s ! lett] 0 long on its way4 ,,footnotes3 #ad ,sir ,william ,amcotte ,+ilby1 ,b>t4 7di$ #ahed71 ( ,ripley ,ca/le1 ,yorks4 #ae ,"l ,byron writes t he is hav+ "s views done by a fam\s ,bav>ian arti/4--,lett] #ei4 ,life by ,t4 ,moore4 #af ,b>on ,otto ,magnus von ,/ackelb]g 7#agfj-ahcf71 antiqu>ian2 au?or ( ,d] ,apollotempel zu ,bassae & o!r works4 #ag ,pet] ,oluf ,bron/$t 7#agha-ahdb71 ,dani% ar*ologi/4 ,0 made ,*evali] ,bron/$t & s5t by 8 ,gov]nm5t z m9i/] to ,rome4 #ah ,lusi]i1 a ,neapolitan1 pa9t] to ! ,k+ ( ,naples2 engag$ z draughtsman by ,"l ,elg94 ,he 0 /ill 9 ,a!ns 9 #ahaf4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,trip ,,to ,,g9a--,,discov]y ,,& ,,transportation ,,( ,,! ,,m>bles ,,to ,,a!ns--,,ef=ts ,,to ,,sell ,,!m4 ,i told y we 7 go+ to make a t\r 9 ! ,morea1 b be=e do+ s we det]m9$ to see ! rema9s ( ! temple at g9a1 opposite ,a!ns1 a ?ree h\rs' sail4 ,our p>ty 0 to be ,hall]1 ,l9ckh1 ,fo/]1 & myself4 ,at ! mom5t ( our />t+ an absurd incid5t occurr$4 ,!re _h be5 = "s "t a sm\ld]+ w> betwe5 our s]vants & our janiss>y4 ,:5 ! latt] he>d t he 0 n to g ) u1 x broke out into a blaze4 ,he said x 0 because ! s]vants _h be5 und]m9+ 8 "*1 :i* !y equally angrily d5i$4 ,b he 0 9 a fury1 w5t home1 got drunk1 & !n came out into ! /reet & fir$ (f 8 pi/ols1 bawl+ out t no "o b he 0 ! legitimate protector ( ! ,engli%4 ,= fe> he %\ld hurt "s "o ) 8 %oot+1 ,i w5t out to him & expo/ulat$4 ,he 0 v drunk1 & pr(ess$ to love u greatly & t he w\ld def5d u aga9/ six or sev5 or ev5 eight ,turks2 b z = ! s]vants1 ',:y1 my s\l1' he said1 'h !y ?us treat$ me8' ,i contriv$1 h[ev]1 to prev5t 8 load+ 8 pi/ols aga91 & z he work$ ! w9e (f1 calm 0 at l5g? re/or$2 b ! :ole affair delay$ u s long t we did n walk d[n to ! ,piru till night4 ,z we 7 sail+ out ( ! port 9 our op5 boat we ov]took ! %ip ) ,"l ,byron on bo>d4 ,pass+ "u h] /]n we sang a fav\rite song ( 81 on :i* he look$ out ( ! w9d[s & invit$ u 94 ,!re we drank a glass ( port ) him1 ,colonel ,trav]s1 & two ( ! ,engli% (fic]s1 & talk$ ( ! ?ree ,engli% frigates t _h attack$ five ,turki% ones & a sloop ( w> (f ,corfu1 & _h tak5 & burnt ?ree ( !m4 ,we did n /ay long1 b bade !m 'bon voyage' & slipp$ ov] ! side4 ,we slept v well 9 ! boat1 & next morn+ rea*$ g9a4 ,! port is v picturesque4 ,we w5t on at once f ! t[n to ! ,temple ( ,jupit]1 :i* /&s at "s di/ance above x2 & hav+ got toge!r workm5 to help u 9 turn+ /ones1 c41 we pit*$ our t5ts = ourselves1 & took possession ( a cave at ! nor?-ea/ angle ( ! plat=m on :i* ! temple /&s--:i* _h once be51 p]haps1 ! cave ( a sacr$ oracle--z a lodg+ = ! s]vants & ! janiss>y4 ,! seas h]eab\ts are /ill infe/$ ) pirates1 z !y always h be54 ,"o ( ! workm5 po9t$ me out ! pirate boats (f ,sunium1 :i* is "o ( _! fav\rite haunts1 & :i* "o c see f ! temple plat=m4 ,b !y nev] mole/$ u dur+ ! tw5ty days & nights we camp$ out !re1 = our p>ty1 ) s]vants & janiss>y1 0 too /rong to be m$dl$ )4 ,we got our provisions & lab\r]s f ! t[n1 our fuel 0 ! wild ?yme1 !re 7 abundance ( p>tridges to eat1 & we b\ght kids ( ! %eph]ds2 & :5 "w 0 ov] = ! day1 !re 0 a gr& roa/+ ( !m ov] a blaz+ fire ) an accompanim5t ( native music1 s++ & danc+4 ,on ! plat=m 0 gr[+ a crop ( b>ley1 b on ! actual ru9s & fall5 fragm5ts ( ! temple itself no great am\nt ( vegetable e>? _h collect$1 s t )\t v mu* lab\r we 7 able to f9d & exam9e all ! /ones necess>y = a complete ar*itectural analysis & re/oration4 ,at ! end ( a few days we _h le>nt all we c\ld wi% to "k ( ! con/ruction1 f ! /ylobate to ! tiles1 & _h done all we came to d4 ,b mean:ile a />tl+ incid5t _h occurr$ :i* wr\ght u all to ! highe/ pit* ( excitem5t4 ,on ! second day "o ( ! excavators1 work+ 9 ! int]ior portico1 /ruck on a piece ( ,p>ian m>ble :i*1 z ! build+ itself is ( /one1 arre/$ 8 att5tion4 ,x turn$ out to be ! head ( a helmet$ w>rior1 p]fect 9 e feature4 ,x lay ) ! face turn$ upw>ds1 & z ! features came out by degrees y c imag9e no?+ l ! /ate ( rapture & excitem5t to :i* we 7 wr\ght4 ,"h 0 an altoge!r new int]e/1 :i* set u to "w ) a w4 ,soon ano!r head 0 turn$ up1 !n a leg & a foot1 & f9ally1 to make a long /ory %ort1 we f\nd "u ! fall5 portions ( ! tympanum & ! cornice ( ! ea/]n & we/]n p$im5ts no less ?an sixte5 /atues & ?irte5 heads1 legs1 arms1 c4 7ano!r acc\nt says sev5te5 & fragm5ts ( at lea/ t5 m71 all 9 ! highe/ pres]vation1 n #c feet bel[ ! surface ( ! gr\nd4#ai ,x seems incr$ible1 consid]+ ! numb] ( travell]s :o h visit$ ! temple1 t !y %\ld h rema9$ s long undi/urb$4 ,x is evid5t t !y 7 br\ght d[n ) ! p$im5t on ! top ( !m by an e>?quake1 & all got brok5 9 ! fall2 b we h f\nd all ! pieces & h n[ put toge!r1 z ,i say1 sixte5 entire figures4 ,! unusual bu/le ab\t ! temple rapidly increas$ z ! news ( our op]ations spread4 ,_m m m5 ?an we want$ began to congregate r\nd u & gave me a good deal ( tr\ble4 ,greek workm5 h pretty ways4 ,!y br+ y bun*es ( roses 9 ! morn+ ) pretty wi%es = y\r good heal?2 b !y c be uncommonly insol5t :5 !re is no janiss>y to keep !m 9 ord]4 ,once :ile ,fo/]1 be+ away at ,a!ns1 _h tak5 ! janiss>y ) him1 ,i _h ! greate/ po!r ) !m4 ,a numb] t ,i did n want w\ld hang ab\t ! digg+s1 n[ & !n tak+ a h& !mselves1 b g5]ally int]f]+ ) ^? :o 7 lab\r+1 & prev5t+ any ord]ly & bus9esslike "w4 ,s at la/ ,i _h to speak to !m4 ,i said we only requir$ t5 m51 :o %\ld ea* receive "o pia/re p] day1 & t t 0 all ,i _h to sp5d2 & if m ?an t5 *ose to "w1 no matt] h[ _m !y might be1 !re w\ld /ill be only ! t5 pia/res to divide among/ !m4 ,!y mu/ settle among/ !mselves :at !y w\ld *oose to d4 ,^u ?is :at did ! idl]s d8 ,"o ( !m produc$ a fiddle2 !y settl$ into a r+ & 7 prep>+ to dance4 ,?is 0 m ?an ,i c\ld put up )4 ,we %\ld get no "w done at all4 ,s ,i int]f]$ & /opp$ x1 decl>+ t only ^? :o work$1 & work$ h>d1 %\ld get paid any?+ :atev]4 ,?is ?reat 0 made m efficaci\s by my evid5t ang]1 & gradually ! sup]flu\s m5 left u 9 peace1 & we got to "w aga94 ,x 0 n to be expect$ t we %\ld be all[$ to c>ry away :at we _h f\nd )\t opposition4 ,h[ev] mu* p may neglect _! own possessions1 z soon z !y see !m covet$ by o!rs !y beg9 to value !m4 ,! primates ( ! isl& came to u 9 a body & read a /atem5t made by ! c\ncil ( ! isl& 9 :i* !y begg$ u to desi/ f our op]ations1 = t heav5 only knew :at mis=tunes might n fall on ! isl& 9 g5]al1 & ! imm$iately surr\nd+ l& 9 p>ticul>1 if we cont9u$ !m4 ,su* a rubbi%y pret5ce ( sup]/iti\s fe> 0 obvi\sly a m]e excuse to extort money1 & z we felt t x 0 only fair t we %\ld pay1 we s5t our dragoman ) !m to ! village to treat ab\t ! sum2 & mean:ile a boat :i* we _h ord]$ f ,a!ns hav+ arriv$1 we emb>k$ ! m>bles )\t delay & s5t !m (f "u ! c>e ( ,fo/] & ,l9ckh1 ) ! janiss>y1 to ! ,piru1 & f !nce !y 7 c>ri$ up to ,a!ns by night to avoid excit+ att5tion4 ,hall] & ,i rema9$ to c>ry on ! digg+1 :i* we did ) all possible vig\r4 ,! m>bles be+ gone1 ! primates came to be easi] to deal )4 ,we complet$ our b>ga9 ) !m to pay !m #hjj pia/res1 ab\t #djl41 = ! antiquities we _h f\nd1 ) leave to cont9ue ! digg+ till we _h explor$ ! :ole site4 ,altoge!r x took u sixte5 days ( v h>d "w1 = besides wat*+ & direct+ & g5]ally manag+ ! workm51 we _h done a good deal ( digg+ & h&l+ ( ! m>bles ourselves2 all heads & specially delicate p>ts we 7 oblig$ to take out ( ! gr\nd ourselves = fe> ( ! workm5 ru9+ !m4 ,on ! :ole we h be5 =tunate4 ,v few h be5 brok5 by c>elessness4 ,besides all ?is1 :i* 0 outside our own real bus9ess1 we _h be5 tak+ measurem5ts & mak+ c>eful draw+s ( e "p & arrangem5t ( ! ar*itecture till e detail ( ! con/ruction &1 z f> z we c\ld fa?om x1 ( ! art ( ! build+ itself 0 cle>ly und]/ood by u4 ,mean:ile1 aft] "o or two days' abs5ce1 ,fo/] & ,l9ckh came back2 & x !n occurr$ to u t ! receipt = ! #hjj pia/res _h only be5 giv5 to ! names ( ,fo/] & myself 7:o _h paid x71 & ,l9ckh & ,hall] desir$ t !irs %\ld be add$4 ,l9ckh !re=e w5t (f to ! t[n to get ! matt] rectifi$4 ,b ?is 0 n s easy4 ,! lawy] 0 a crafty rogue1 & pret5d+ to be drunk z soon z he _h got back ! receipt into 8 h&s1 refus$ to give x up1 & did n d s until aft] a great deal ( p]suasion & ?reat5+4 ,:5 we fell 9 ) him at d9n] two days lat] he met u ) ! air ( ! mo/ c&id unconc]n4 ,x 0 at ! table ( a c]ta9 ,*i\k aga :o _h be5 s5t f ,con/ant9ople to receive ! rayah tax4 ,l9ckh _h met him 9 ! t[n :5 he w5t ab\t ! receipt1 & ! ,*i\k _h paid u a visit at ! temple next day & d9$ ) u1 eat+ & especially dr9k+ a great deal4 ,a complim5t he paid u 0 to dr9k our heal?s fir+ (f a pi/ol4 ,i _h to d ! same 9 return4 ,! man _h be5 to ,engl&1 & ev5 to ,ox=d1 & _h come back ) an odd jumble ( ideas :i* amus$ u b are n wor? repeat+4 ,next day1 z ,i h said1 we d9$ ) him & ! rogue ( a lawy]4 ,he 0 v hospitable4 ,d9n] consi/$ ma9ly ( a :ole lamb1 (f :i* ) 8 f+]s he tore entire limbs & ?rew !m into our plates1 :i* we1 equally ) our f+]s1 la ,turque1 ate z be/ we c\ld4 ,we f9i%$ ! ev5+ ) ! ,albanian dance1 & walk$ up home to our t5t4 ,! :ole p>ty ) _! treasures got back to ,a!ns on ! #i? or #aj? ( ,may #ahaa1 & on ! #ac? he writes3 ,we are n[ h>d at "w jo9+ ! brok5 pieces1 & h tak5 a l>ge h\se = ! purpose4 ,"s ( ! figures are already re/or$1 & h a magnific5t effect4 ,our c\ncil ( arti/s "h consid]s !m z n inf]ior to ! rema9s ( ! ,p>!non1 & c]ta9ly only 9 ! second rank aft] ! torso ( ! ,vatican & o!r *efs d'oeuvre4 ,we conduct all our affairs ) respect to !m 9 ! utmo/ secrecy1 = fe> ! ,turk %\ld ei!r reclaim !m or put difficulties 9 ! way ( our export+ !m4 ,! few fri5ds we h & consult are dy+ ) jeal\sy1 & "o#bj :o _h meant to h f>m$ g9a ( ! ,capta9 ,pa%a has lit]ally made himself q ill ) frett+4 ,fauvel1 ! ,fr5* consul1 0 also a good deal disappo9t$2 b he is too good a fell[ to let envy affect 8 actions1 & he has giv5 excell5t help & advice4 ,! f9d+ ( su* a treasure has tri$ e "* conc]n$ ) x4 ,he saw t ?is w\ld be ! case1 & = fe> x %\ld op]ate to ! prejudice ( our beautiful collection1 he propos$ our sign+ a contract ( hon\r t no "o %\ld take any measures to sell or divide x )\t ! cons5t ( ! o!r ?ree p>ties4 ,?is 0 done4 ,x is n to be divid$4 ,x is a collection :i* a k+ or great nobleman :o _h ! arts ( 8 c\ntry at he>t %\ld sp>e no ef=t to secure2 = x w\ld be a s*ool ( art z well z an ornam5t to any c\ntry4 ,! ,g]mans h accord+ly writt5 to _! m9i/]s1 & ,i h writt5 to ,cann+2 :ile ,fauvel1 :o has a g5]al ord] = ! purpose f 8 m9i/]1 w make an (f] to u on ! ,fr5* acc\nt4 ,i _h hop$ t ,"l ,sligo w\ld h (f]$ = x2 b our ,g]mans1 :o calculate by ! price ( m>bles 9 ,rome1 h nam$ su* a mon/r\s figure t x has fright5$ him4 ,!y talk ( f #f1jjjl4 to #h1jjjl42 b z we are eag] t !y %\ld g to our museum1 ,fo/] & ,i h und]tak5 to pres5t our %>es if ! m>bles g to ,engl&1 & ,i h writt5 to ,cann+ to say s4 ,x w\ld make a s5sible d$uction4 ,! :ole matt] is /ill full ( unc]ta9ties1 = ! ,turks may give u a good deal ( tr\ble4 ,b "o ?+ seems cle>--t ^! m>bles may deta9 me "h mu* long] ?an ,i propos$ to /op2 & ?\gh we h agre$ n to divide ! collection1 x may come to t if we _c get away )\t2 & if we c get !m to ,engl&1 ev5 ,fo/]'s & my portions w\ld make a noble acquisition to ! museum4 ,we h be5 v busy gett+ ! m>bles into ord]1 t ,"l ,sligo might be able to see !m be=e leav+4 ,he takes ?is lett] ) him4 ,x 0 %ortly aft] ?is1 viz4 on ,june #ac1 t ,messrs4 ,gaily-,knight#ba & ,fazak]ly arriv$ 9 ,a!ns f ,egypt & made an (f]1 :i* 0 to buy out ,messrs4 ,hall] & ,l9ckh's %>es 9 ! m>bles = #b1jjjl41 & !n1 9 conjunction ) ,mr4 ,fo/] & my fa!r1 to pres5t ! :ole to ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! (f] un=tunately c\ld n be accept$1 z x did n come up to ! price dem&$ by ! ,g]mans4 ,,footnotes3 #ai ,only fifte5 /atues 7 piec$ toge!r by ,?orwalds5 & ,wagn]1 b !re 7 num]\s fragm5ts besides ^? us$ by !m1 :i* are /ill ! subject ( conjectural re/orations4 #bj ,i suppose ,lusi]i4--,,ed4 #ba ,h5ry ,gally-,knight 7#aghf-ahdf71 ,m4,p41 writ] ( sev]al works on ar*itecture4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,life ,,9 ,,a!ns--,,eleusis--,,transportation ,,( ,,g9a ,,m>bles ,,to ,,zante4 ,my fa!r 0 n[ 9 = a long /ay 9 ! c\ntry1 & see+ some?+ m ( x ?an ! usual t\ri/1 ev5 ( ^? days4 ,"o or two entries f 8 di>y give "o a slight insight into ! b>b>\s condition ( ! c\ntry at ?is "t4 ,! ,pa%a ( ,negropont has s5t a dem& ( a c]ta9 numb] ( purses ( ! p ( ,a!ns4 ,logo!ti1 ,greek ,ar*on ( ,a!ns1 excit$ ! p to g to ! cadi & pres5t a prote/1 :i* he promis$ he w\ld support4 ,! p w5t z f> z ! h\se1 :5 ,logo!ti /epp$ aside into a neighb\r+ h\se1 :5ce he c\ld see ! cadi's c\nt5ance & judge h[ to speak to him4 ,he saw he took x well1 & !n he spoke 9 support ( ! prote/4 ,?is ,pa%a ( ,negropont1 h[ev]1 is a r$\btable p]son4 ,x 0 expect$ t he w\ld s5d troops to attack ,a!ns1 b x seems t 0 too /rong a measure ev5 = him4 ,in/ead1 he has int]cept$ "s poor ,albanian *eese m]*ants1 & deta9s !m until "s or all ( ! money has be5 paid him4#bb ,"o day ,i w5t to ! waiwode on bus9ess4 ,we _h a long talk consi/+ ma9ly ( que/ions ab\t ,engl&1 9 :i* he display$ 8 ignorance to great advantage4 ,aft] inquir+ aft] 8 great fri5d ,elfi ,bey 8 ,"l ,elg91 he ask$ :at on e>? we came "h =1 s f> & at s mu* tr\ble1 if n = money4 ,did x give u a pref]5ce 9 obta9+ public situations1 or 7 we paid8 ,x 0 useless to assure him t we consid]$ x "p ( education to travel1 & t ,a!ns 0 a v anci5t place & mu* rev]$ by u4 ,he only ?\ght ! m t our object mu/ be "o we wi%$ to conceal4 ,i told him ( ! fuss made 9 ,london ov] ! ,p]sian ambassador1 & t if he w5t all ! _w w\ld wond] at him4 ,at ?is he got v excit$1 & said he wi%$ he _h a good c>ico ( oil :i* he c\ld take to ,engl&1 !reby pay+ 8 j\rney1 & t once he 0 !re he w\ld make ev]yone pay to see him4 ,all t he knew ab\t ,engl& 0 t !re 7 beautiful g>d5s !re1 especially "o nam$ ,m>cellias 7,m>seilles76 ,! man's "o idea 0 money1 & he kept on repeat+ t he 0 v poor4 ,no wond] ,greece is mis]able "u su* rul]s4 ,veli ,pa%a1 ,gov]nor ( ! ,morea1 pass$ ?r\gh ,a!ns a %ort "t ago 9 a palank9 ( gold1 :ile ! c\ntry is 9 mis]y4 ,! ,greeks1 cr+e+ blackgu>ds z !y are1 h (t5 a sort ( pride ( _! own4 ,"o ( our s]vants1 :o receiv$ a pia/re a day 7#as471 has j left u4 ,8 amorosa1 :o liv$ close by1 saw him c>ry+ wat] & p]=m+ o!r m5ial (fices & *aff$ him1 s he said he c\ld /& x no long] & ?rew up a place ! l ( :i* he w n f9d aga9 9 ,a!ns4 ,i w5t into ! c\ncil ( ! ,greek primates4 ,!re ,i saw ! ,fr5* proclamation on ! bir? ( ! ,roi des ,roma9s3 ',! ,immortal son ( ,buonap>te is born6 ,rejoice1 ye p1 our wi%es are accompli%$6' ,! primates1 h[ev]1 sob]ly object$ t none b ,god 0 ,greek3 a?anatos4 ,:at took me !re 0 to back an ,engli%man :o _h got into a qu>rel ) a neighb\r1 a ,greek wid[1 ab\t 'anci5t lights' :i* 7 block$ by a new build+ he 0 putt+ up4 ,! woman ma9ta9$ h] cause ) mu* _s & *oice expressions3 ',y rascal1 :o came to ,a!ns ) y\r m\? full ( dung6 ,i'll s5d y out )\t a %oe to y\r foot4' ,our man retort$ 'putana1' equally irrelevantly1 & ! affair end$ 9 8 fav\r4 ,"o morn+ by agreem5t we rose at daybreak & walk$ to ,eleusis1 int5d+ to dig1 b we f\nd ! lab\r]s v idle & insol5t2 & aft] a few days1 discov]+ no trace ( ! temple1 we gave x up4 ,! bett] sort ( ,greeks h "s respect = ! sup]ior k ( ,franks z ev9c$ 9 my draw+s2 "o man1 a papa or prie/1 ask$ me :e!r ,i ?\ght ! anci5ts1 :om !y rev]e1 c h be5 ,franks or ,romaics4 ,an awkw>d incid5t occurr$ dur+ our /ay4 ,we _h 9 our s]vice a h&some ,greek lad to :om ! cadi took a fancy & insi/$ on 8 tak+ s]vice ) him4 ,! boy1 mu* t]rifi$1 came & wept to u & ,papa ,nicola1 ) :om we lodg$4 ,we />t$ (f at once to ! cadi1 & gave him a piece ( our m9d1 :i* consid]ably a/oni%$ & enrag$ him4 ,he 0 afraid to t\* u1 b v[$ to take x out ( old ,nicola1 & ! next day w5t (f to ,a!ns4 ,"o night1 ! la/ ( our /ay1 arriv$ a man f ! zabeti1 or police1 ( ,a!ns to take up ,nicola to answ] c]ta9 accusations br\ght aga9/ him by ! cadi4 ,?is soldi]1 :o 0 a f9e type ( ! g5u9e ,a!nian blackgu>d1 swagg]$ 9 & p>took freely ( our w9e1 hav+ already got drunk at ! cadi's4 ,he (f]$ w9e to pass]s-by z if x 0 8 own1 boa/$1 call$ himself ,greek3 'palik>1' ro>$ out songs1 & g5]ally made himself mo/ objectionable4 ,he began to quiz a respectable ,albanian :o came 92 & :5 ! latt]1 :o 0 v civil & call$ him ',aga1' attempt$ to retort1 flew into a rage1 said he 0 a palik> aga91 & h&l$ 8 sword & %ook 8 pi/ols4 ,i c\ld /& x no long] at la/1 & said ?is 0 my h\se & no "o 0 aga !re b myself2 t ,i %\ld be glad to see him put 8 pi/ols d[n & let me h no m ( 8 swagg]+2 o!rwise ,i _h pi/ols too1 :i* ,i %[$ him1 & w\ld be ready to use !m4 ,i !n treat$ our poor ,albanian ) great att5tion & him ) contumely4 ,?is f9i%$ him & r$uc$ ! brute to absolute cr+e+ z f> z 8 conduct to me w5t4 ,! wret*$ papa he bulli$ z be=e1 & :5 he got up to g he & all ! re/ 7 up 9 an in/ant2 "o prep>$ 8 pap\*es1 ano!r support$ him1 a ?ird op5$ ! door1 & a f\r? held a lamp to light him out4 ,b he _h n yet f9i%$ 8 ev5+4 ,soon ,i he>d a noise ( s++ & ro>+ f ano!r h\se h>d by1 & receiv$ a message f him to beg ,i w\ld sup ) him1 = n[ he _h a table ( 8 own & c\ld invite me4 ,! table 0 provid$ by "s wret*$ ,greek he 0 tyrannis+ ov]4 ,( c\rse ,i did n g1 b ,i moralis$ ov] ! /ate ( ! c\ntry4 ,next day he c>ri$ (f ,nicola4 ,ano!r in/ance ( ! tyranny ( ^! sc\ndrels 0 told me z hav+ occurr$ only a few days be=e4 ,a zabetis man _h arriv$ & pret5d$ to h lo/ on ! way a purse conta9+ #hj pia/res4 ,all ! inhabitants 7 s5t to se>* = x1 & if !y did n f9d x he said x mu/ be repaid by ! t[n--& x 04 ,among ! p we met at ,eleusis 0 a ,greek m]*ant1 a great beau f ,hydra1 at ?is "t ! mo/ prosp]\s place 9 ,greece2 b away f 8 own t[n he _h to cr+e to ! ,turks l ev]yone else4 ,on our way back to ,a!ns we ov]took him c>ry+ an umbrella to %ade 8 face1 & ) an ,albanian boy beh9d him4 ,:5 he saw our janiss>y ,mahomet ! umbrella 0 imm$iately l[]$4 ,! population ( ,greece is s small n[#bc t l>ge spaces are left uncultivat$ & rights to l& are v undef9$4 ,9 ! neighb\rhood ( t[ns !re is always a consid]able am\nt ( cultivat$ gr\nd1 b al?\gh ! cultivator ( ea* pat* hopes to reap x1 !re is no?+ b fe> ( him to prev5t ano!r's do+ x1 s f> z ,i c see4 ,a field is pl\gh$ & s[n by an undef9$ set ( p1 & an equally or ev5 less def9$ set may reap x4 ,& 9 po9t ( fact p d g & cut corn :]e !y please or d>e4 ,we met a lot ( ,a!nians on our way back1 go+ to cut corn at ,!bes4 ,by ! middle ( ,july ! g9etan ,m>bles _h be5 ?or\ghly ov]haul$ & piec$ toge!r1 & x 0 press+ t some?+ %\ld be done ab\t !m4 ,! s*emes ( sell+ !m to ,"l ,sligo & ,messrs4 ,knight & ,fazak]ly _h fall5 ?r\gh1 & x _h come to be se5 t ! only fair way = all p>ties 0 to sell !m by public auction4 ,to d ?is !y mu/ fir/ be got out ( ! c\ntry1 & v>i\s s*emes = effect+ x 7 consid]$ & ab&on$4 ,z ! proprietors mean:ile 7 9 daily fe> ( _! be+ p\nc$ ^u by ! ,turki% au?orities1 !y agre$ at l5g? to put ! :ole matt] into ! h&s ( "o ,gropius1 a common acqua9tance4 ,he 0 half a ,g]man1 b born & br$ among/ ,ori5tals1 & be+ conv]sant ) _! ways & languages1 & a %>p fell[ besides1 !y felt he 0 m likely ?an !mselves1 unassi/$1 to c>ry ! bus9ess ?r\gh successfully4 ,!y accord+ly appo9t$ him _! ag5t1 & settl$ t ! collection %\ld be got to ,zante1 z ! ne>e/ place ( security4 ,eight days 7 sp5t 9 pack+1 & on ,july #cj ! fir/ bat*1 on horses & mules1 0 s5t (f at night to a spot indicat$ on ! ,gulf ( ,cor9?1 ne> a t[n & ca/le 8 ,livado/ro4--,,ed44 ,cock]ell foll[$ two days aft]w>ds ) ! re/1 & sleep+ two nights at ,cond\ra1 on ! ?ird day rea*$ ! r5dezv\s4 ,!re !y f\nd ! fir/ bat* all laid out on ! bea*1 & congratulat$ !mselves on hav+ got s f> unmole/$4 ,gropius w5t into ! t[n to hire a vessel :ile ! re/ sket*$ & re/$4 ,! wea!r 0 furi\sly hot1 & ,cock]ell1 :o 0 v fond ( ! wat]1 w5t out = a long swim 9 ! bay1 b "s fi%]m5 he came up ) fright5$ him back by tell+ him t !y _h se5 %>ks ab\t4 ,gropius return$ 9 ! ev5+ ) a boat1 & all set to "w to get ! packages abo>d4 ,x took !m ne>ly ! :ole night to d x4 ,:5 f9ally he _h se5 !m all /[$1 ,cock]ell1 tir$ out1 lay d[n to sleep4 ,:5 he woke !y 7 already glid+ out ( ! bay4 ,!y sail$ along prosp]\sly1 & _h long pass$ ,cor9? & ,sicyon :51 z ev5+ came on1 !y he>d ! s\nd ( fir+ ahead4 ,our fir/ idea 0 pirates1 & :5 we pres5tly came up ) a l>ge %ip1 :i* summon$ u to come to1 we 7 r anxi\s4 ,our felucca 0 s5t abo>d4 ,%e turn$ out to be a ,zantiote m]*antman1 & _h be5 attack$ by f\r boats :i* _h put out f ! %ore to exam9e ! c>go 9 ! "n ( ,ali ,pa%a4 ,%e _h refus$ to submit to ov]haul+1 & :5 ask$ :at h] c>go consi/$ ( _h repli$ ',bullets4' ,:5 ! capta9 und]/ood we _h f\r milordi on bo>d1 he begg$ p>don = deta9+ u1 & let u g on4 ,next day we made ,patras1 :]e we w5t a%ore to see ,/rani1 ! consul1 & get f him passports & lett]s = ,zante4 ,9 ! t[n we fell 9 ) ,bron/$t & ! re/ ( t p>ty1 :o 71 ( c\rse1 mu* int]e/$ & a/oni%$ to he> all our news & pres5t bus9ess1 & :5 we set sail 9 ! ev5+ gave u a gr& salute ( pi/ols z we w5t out ( port4 ,we _h a spank+ breeze4 ,a /orm 0 brew+ beh9d ,calydon1 & :5 at l5g? x came ^u u x bur/ ! sail ( a boat ne> u4 ,we 7 a lot ( boats sail+ toge!r1 b :5 ! re/ saw ?is accid5t !y took 9 _! sails4 ,our skipp]1 h[ev]1 insi/$ on c>ry+ on1 s we soon p>t$ company ) ! o!rs2 & aft] a fair w9d all night we arriv$ 9 ! morn+ at ,zante4 ,,footnotes3 #bb ,9 ! end ! city _h to pay him #aj1jjj pia/res1 & !y _h sp5t #e1jjj 9 putt+ !mselves 9 a /ate ( def5ce4 #bc ,accord+ to ,de ,p\queville1 #edh1idj1 9 #ahad2 x is n[ ov] #b1jjj1jjj4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,zante--,,colonel ,,*ur*--,,leaves ,,zante ,,to ,,make ,,t\r ,,( ,,! ,,morea--,,olympia --,,bass--,,discov]y ,,( ,,bas-,,reliefs--,,=c$ ,,to ,,desi/ ,,f ,,excavations4 ,hi!rto we _h _h an anxi\s "t1 b once !y 7 l&$ we felt at ease ab\t ! m>bles4 ,h5ce=? ! bus9ess is 9 ,gropius' h&s4 ,! auction has be5 ann\nc$ 9 ,engli% & cont95tal pap]s to take place 9 ,zante on ,novemb] #a1 #ahab4 ,x took u "s "t to in/all !m1 & altoge!r we pass$ an odi\s =tnight on ! isl&4 ,! ,zantiotes1 z !y h be5 m "u ,we/]n influ5ce--= ,zante belong$ to ,v5ice = ab\t ?ree c5turies--are dete/able4 ,!y are mu* less ignorant ?an ! re/ ( ! ,greeks1 b _! half-k only makes !m ! m hateful4 ,until ! isl& 0 tak5 9 h& by ! ,engli%1 murd] 0 ( con/ant occurr5ce1 & s long z a small sum ( money 0 paid to ! prov$itor no notice 0 tak5 ( x4 ,= accompli%+ x )\t blood%$ !y _h a special me?od ( _! own4 ,x 0 to fill a long n>r[ bag ) s&1 ) :i*1 ) a bl[ on ! back sci5tifically deliv]$1 !re c\ld be giv51 )\t fuss or noise1 a %ock c]ta9 soon] or lat] to prove fatal4 ,socially !y h all ! faults ( ! ,we/ z well z ^? ( ! ,ea/ )\t ! virtues ( ei!r4 ,b _! cr[n+ defect 9 my eyes is t !y h n ! picturesque co/umes or appe>ance ( ! ma9l& ,greeks4 ,! mo/ int]e/+ ?+ 9 ,zante = ! mom5t is ,major ,*ur*'s#bd ,greek cont+5t4 ,he has enroll$ & discipl9$ a numb] ( refugee ,greeks1 "p patriots1 "p crim9als1 & g5]ally bo?1 & has tak5 an imm5se deal ( pa9s ) !m4 ,he flatt]s !m by call+ !m ,hell5es1 %[s !m ! heads ( _! h]oes & philosoph]s pa9t$ on e wall 9 8 h\se1 & endeav\rs g5]ally to r\se _! en?usiasm4 ,he himself adopts ! ,albanian co/ume1 to :i* he has add$ a helmet :i* he fancies is l t ( ! anci5t ,greeks1 al?\gh x is c]ta9ly v unlike ^? ( ! h]oes we br\ght into ,zante4 ,altoge!r1 ) a great deal ( good managem5t & m fu/ian1 he has contriv$ to atta* to himself "s ?\s& excell5t troops :i* "u 8 comm& w\ld really be capable ( do+ great ?+s4 #be;,at la/1 on ! ev5+ ( ! #ah? ( ,augu/1 we consid]$ ourselves =tunate 9 be+ able to get away1 & we />t$ to make ! t\r ( ! ,morea4 ,gropius1 ,hall]1 ,fo/]1 ,l9ckh1 & ,i left ,zante 9 a small boat & arriv$ next morn+ at ,pyrgi1 ! port ( ,pyrgo1 f :i* x is di/ant two h\rs & a half4 ,we obta9$ horses at a mona/]y n f> f :]e we l&$1 & rode ?r\gh a l[ m>%y c\ntry1 well cultivat$1 *iefly 9 corn & melon gr\nds1 & fairly well peopl$ up to ! t[n4 ,pyrgo itself lies j above ! m>%es :i* bord] ! ,alpheus1 &1 z x happ5$ to our subsequ5t co/1 !re 0 a good deal ( wat] out at ?is mom5t4 ,we ord]$ horses1 & :ile !y 7 be+ br\ght 9 we ent]$ ! h\se ( an old ,greek1 a primate ( ! place4 ,i _h be5 s disgu/$ ) ! ?9ly v5e]$ civilisation ( ! ,zantiotes & bor$ ) ! affectations ( our g>rison (fic]s !re1 t ,i 0 congratulat+ myself on hav+ got back to ! frank b>b>ism ( ! ,morea1 :5 my admiration = x receiv$ a *eck4 ,! old ,greek 9 ^: h\se we 7 wait+ seem$ anxi\s to be rid ( u1 &1 ! bett] to d s1 assur$ me t ,m]aca1 or ,olympia1 0 only #b h\rs di/ant1 equal at ! ord9>y rate ( ,turki% travell+1 :i* is #c miles an h\r1 to #g miles4 ,! horses 7 s long 9 com+1 on acc\nt ( _! be+ out among ! m>%es & ! m5 hav+ to g up to _! knees to get !m1 t ,hall] & ,i got impati5t & resolv$ to g on foot z ! di/ance 0 s little4 ,x turn$ out1 h[ev]1 to be #g h\rs in/ead ( #b1 & at nightfall we arriv$ dead-beat at a m>%1 ?r\gh :i* 9 a pit* d>kness1 ,i may ?ank my />s1 al?\gh invisible1 = hav+ /ruggl$ safely4 ,we w&]$ ab\t1 lo/ our way1 wad$ 9 pools to our knees1 & f9ally took #h h\rs in/ead ( #b to get to our de/9ation4 ,x 0 two o'clock 9 ! morn+ :5 we got to ,m]aca1 utt]ly tir$ out1 & ) our lodg+ /ill to seek4 ,we 7 direct$ to a t[] 9 :i* liv$ an ,albanian aga4 ,! entrance 0 at ! top ( a /aircase runn+ up ! side ( ! h\se & end+ 9 a drawbridge :i* l$ to ! door on ! fir/ floor4 ,once inside we w5t up two o!r flights ( /airs to a room 9 :i* we f\nd two ,albanians1 by :om we 7 k9dly receiv$4 ,:5 !y he>d h[ tir$ we 7 !y (f]$ u "s rasky4 ,besides t !re 0 "s mis]able bread1 b no c(fee or meat to refre% u4 ,we _h to lie d[n & g to sleep )\t4 ,!re are few visible rema9s ( ! once fam\s ,olympia1#bf & n a trace ( /adium or !atre t ,i c\ld make out4 ,! g5]al op9ion is t ! ,alpheus has silt$ up & buri$ _m ( ! build+s to a dep? ( #h or #aj feet1 & our small rese>*es po9t 9 ! same direction4 ,we dug 9 ! temple1 b :at we c\ld d am\nt$ to next to no?+4 ,to d x completely w\ld be a "w = a k+4 ,i _h _h "s difficulty ) ! ,greek lab\r]s at g9a1 b ! ,turks "h 7 mu* worse4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 in/ead ( "o pia/re apiece p] day !y ask$ #b1 & 9 ! next !y _h no prop] tools4 ,! e>? 0 z h>d z brick1 & :5 ) extreme difficulty x _h be5 brok5 up !y _h no prop] %ovels2 & :5 ! e>?1 :i* !y pil$ along ! tr5* z !y dug x out1 ran into ! hole aga91 !y scoop$ x out ) _! h&s4 ,! ?+ 0 too ludicr\s4 ,wor/ ( all1 z soon z we turn$ our backs = a mom5t !y ei!r did no?+ or w5t away4 ,?is happ5$ :5 we left !m to cross ! riv] & try = a bett] view ( ! place4 ,we got ov] 9 a caique1 :i* ! aga himself1 f ! village across ! wat]1 punt$ ov] to u2 b ! view ov] !re 0 disappo9t+1 & we came back to f9d1 z ,i say1 our workm5 all idl+4 ,! long & %ort ( our excavations 0 t we measur$ ! columns ( ! temple to be #g feet 9 diamet]1 & we f\nd "s atta*$ columns & o!r fragm5ts ( m>ble f ! int]ior1 ! :ole ( :i* ,i suppose 0 ( m>ble1 t ( ! pavem5t be+ ( v>i\s col\rs4 ,su* /one z is us$ is ( a r\gh k9d1 made up entirely ( small %ells & cov]$ ) a v :ite & f9e pla/]4 ,& t is ab\t all ! in=mation we got = a l>gi% outlay4 ,f ,m]aca we rode ?r\gh romantic sc5]y to ,&ritz5a1 a *>m+ village 9 a v beautiful & romantic situation2 & next morn+ we settl$ to g on to ! ,temple ( ,bass--! /yl or columns1 ! natives call x4 ,b be=e we />t$ ! primates ( ,&ritz5a came 91 & aft] turn+ ov] our ?+s & exam9+ & ask+ ! price ( our arms1 !y began to try & fright5 u ) trem5d\s /ories ( a c]ta9 ,b>ulli1 capta9 ( a company ( klephts or robb]s :o haunt$ ! neighb\rhood ( ! /yl4 ,!y begg$ u to come back ! same ev5+1 & to take a gu>d ) u4 ,z = ! fir/1 we flatly refus$2 & = ! second1 we reflect$ t our gu>ds mu/ be ,greeks1 :ile ! klephts might be ,turks1 & if s ! =m] w\ld nev] /& aga9/ !m1 s x 0 z well = u to take ! risk alone4 ,we did1 h[ev]1 take "o ( _! sugge/ions1 & t 0 to take ) u two m5 ( ! c\ntry :o w\ld "k :o 0 :o1 & act z guides & g-betwe5s2 = !y assur$ u t x is n only ! pr(essional klephts :o rob1 b t all ! inhabitants ( ! villages !reab\ts are dilettante brig&s on occasion4 ,our janiss>y ,mahomet also did n at all fancy ! notion ( liv+ up 9 ! m\nta91 & add$ :at he c\ld to dissuade u4 ,h[ev]1 we turn$ a deaf e> to all objections & set out4 ,our way lay ov] "s high gr\nd1 & ris+ almo/ all ! way1 = #b h\rs4 ,x is impossible to give an idea ( ! romantic beauty ( ! situation ( ! temple4 ,x /&s on a high ridge look+ ov] l(ty b>r5 m\nta9s & an ext5sive c\ntry bel[ !m4 ,! gr\nd is rocky1 ?9ly pat*$ ) vegetation1 & spott$ ) spl5did ilexes4 ,! view gives "o ,i?ome1 ! /ronghold & la/ def5ce ( ! ,mess5ians aga9/ ,sp>ta1 to ! s\?-we/2 ,arcadia1 ) its _m hills1 to ! ea/2 & to ! s\? ! range ( ,taygetus1 ) /ill beyond !m ! sea4 ,hall] _h engagem5ts1 :i* ,i _h got him1 to make f\r draw+s = ,engli% travell]s4 ,i made "s on my own acc\nt1 & !re 7 measurem5ts to be tak5 & a few /ones mov$ = ! purpose1 all ( :i* took "t4 ,we sp5t altoge!r t5 days !re1 liv+ on %eep & butt]1 ! only good butt] ,i h ta/$ s9ce leav+ ,engl&1 sold to u by ! few ,albanian %eph]ds :o liv$ ne>4 ,( an ev5+ we us$ to sit & smoke by a fire1 talk+ to ! %eph]ds till we 7 ready = sleep1 :5 we turn$ into our t5t1 :i*1 ?\gh n exactly com=table1 protect$ u f wea!r & f wolves4 ,= !re are wolves--"o ( !m "o night tore a %eep to pieces close to u4 ,we pit*$ our t5t "u ! nor? front4 ,on ! next day aft] our arrival1 ! #be?1 "o ( ! primates ( ,&ritz5a came begg+ u to desi/ f digg+ or mov+ /ones1 = t x might br+ h>m on ! t[n4 ,?is 0 v mu* :at happ5$ at g9a4 ,he did n specify :at h>m1 b ask$ :o we 74 ,we 9 reply said t we _h firmans1 t x 0 n civil1 !re=e1 to ask :o we 71 & t we 7 n go+ to c>ry away ! columns4 ,:5 he he>d ( ! firmans he said he w\ld d any?+ he c\ld to help u4 ,all ! same1 he seem$ to h giv5 "s ord]s to our guide aga9/ digg+2 = ! %eph]ds we engag$ kept talk+ ( ! fe> !y 7 91 & at la/ w5t away1 "o ( !m say+ ! "w 0 di/a/eful to him4 ,!y 7 no great loss1 = !y 7 s /upid t ,i 0 oblig$ to be always ) !m & "w too1 9 do+ :i* ,i tore my h& & got exce$+ly fatigu$4 ,i 0 repaid by gett+ "s important measurem5ts4 ,9 look+ ab\t ,i f\nd two v beautiful bas-reliefs "u "s /ones1 :i* ,i took c>e to conceal aga9 imm$iately4 ,?is incid5t is describ$ 9 great] detail by ,/ackelb]g 9 ! preface to 8 book4#bg ,! int]ior ( ! temple--t is to say1 ! space inside ! columns--0 a mass ( fall5 blocks ( "s dep?4 ,:ile ,hall] & ,cock]ell ) ! lab\r]s 7 scrambl+ ab\t among ! ru9s to get _! measurem5ts1 a fox t _h made its home deep d[n among/ ! /ones1 di/urb$ by ! unusual noise1 got up & ran away4 ,x is n q a pleasant task to crawl d[n among su* insecure & pond]\s masses ( /one ) ! possibility ( f9d+ ano!r fox at ! bottom2 b ,cock]ell v5tur$ 91 & on scrap+ away ! accumulations :]e ! fox _h its lair1 he saw by ! light :i* came d[n a crack among ! /ones1 a bas-relief4 ,i h he>d ?is /ory also f 8 own lips4 ,/ackelb]g fur!r says t ! p>ticul> relief 0 t numb]$ #ecj 9 ! ,phigaleian ,m>bles at ! ,briti% ,museum1 & navely adds1 inde$ "o may /ill trace on ! m>ble ! injuries done by ! fox's claws4 ,he manag$ to make a r\gh sket* ( ! slab & c>efully cov]$ x ov] aga94 ,f ! position 9 :i* x lay x 0 inf]able t ! :ole frieze w\ld probably be f\nd "u ! dilapidations4 ,e>ly "o morn+ "s arm$ %eph]ds came look+ ab\t = a lo/ %eep4 ,!y ev5tually f\nd x dead n f> f our t5t1 & torn to pieces by a wolf--z ,i m5tion$ be=e4 ,! day be+ ,sunday we saw "s gr& specim5s ( ! ,arcadian %eph]ds4 ,!y /alk ab\t ) a gun ov] _! %\ld]s & a long pi/ol 9 ! wai/1 look+ v savage & wild--& s !y are3 b1 wild z !y may be1 !y /ill reta9 ! names :i* poetry has connect$ ) all t is idyllic & peaceful4 ,alexis is "o ( ! commone/4 ,z our lab\r]s _h left u1 !re 0 no?+ = x b to "w ourselves4 ,we 7 do+ s & _h j lit ^u "s beautiful caissons1 :5 a man on horseback1 ,greek or ,turk 7!y dress s mu* alike !re is no di/+ui%+ !m71 rode up accompani$ by f\r ,albanians all arm$4 ,he told u he 0 ! own] ( ! l&1 &1 al?\gh he 0 v civil ab\t x1 he =bade our digg+ any m4 ,we ask$ him to eat ) u1 b be+ a fa/ day 9 ! ,greek ,*ur*1 he decl9$4 ,f9ally1 aft] writ+ to ,&ritz5a1 he left u4 ,aft] s _m objections be+ made to our excavations we felt x w\ld be too dang]\s to g on at pres5t1 & promis$ ourselves to come aga9 next ye> 9 a /rong] p>ty & arm$ ) m p]emptory & explicit au?ority to dig1 & 9 ! meantime !re 0 no?+ to d b to get ?r\gh our draw+s & /udies z quickly z we c\ld4 ,! uneas9ess ( our janiss>y ,mahomet1 s9ce our camp+ out began1 gave u s]i\s d\bts ( 8 c\rage1 & a plan 0 inv5t$ = te/+ x4 ,?is 0 to raise an al>m at night t we 7 attack$ by klephts4 ,our ,arcadian %eph]ds ent]$ into ! joke ) surpris+ alacrity & kept x up well4 ,j aft] supp] a cry 0 he>d f ! m\nta9 above t robb]s 7 ne>4 ,9 an in/ant we all sprang up1 seiz$ pi/ols & swords1 & made a fe9t z ?\gh we w\ld g up ! hill4 ,our janiss>y1 ?und]/ruck1 0 foll[+1 :5 we propos$ t he %\ld g on alone4 ,b he w\ld n d t4 ,9 ! fir/ place he 0 ill2 9 ! next place1 ,w\ld x n be bett] to g to ,&ritz5a8 ,he begg$ we might g to ,&ritz5a4 ,,footnotes3 #bd ,aft]w>ds ,sir ,ri*>d ,*ur*1 & comm&]-9-*ief ( ! ,greek =ces up to 8 dea? 9 #ahgb4 #be ,an epitome ( ! foll[+ appe>s 9 ,hughes's ,travels 9 ,sicily1 ,greece1 & ,albania1 p4 #aij4 #bf ,olympia 0 ?or\ghly excavat$ by ! ,g]mans 9 #ahge-gf1 :5 ! ,h]mes ( ,praxiteles & ! ,victory ( ,ponios 7 discov]$4 #bg ,d] ,apollotempel zu ,bassae4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,&ritz5a--,,c>itz5a--,,megalopolis--,,b 5ight$--,,kalamata4 ,we left ! /yl & w5t d[n to ,&ritz5a by a %ort] road4 ,9 go+ up1 ! driv]s1 to be able to *>ge u m1 _h tak5 u r\nd a long] way4 ,&ritz5a is n only beautiful 9 its situation1 ! p :o live 9 x are *>m+4 ,ev]yone seem$ to ?9k x ! prop] ?+ to %[ "s att5tion to ! /rang]s4 ,! girls--& "s ( !m 7 v pretty--br\ght u ea* z a pres5t a fruit ( "s k9d1 pe>s or figs1 & did x 9 ! prettie/ & mo/ engag+ mann]2 s t we _h m ?an we c\ld c>ry home ) u4 ,dis9t]e/$ urbanity is s unusual a feature 9 ,greek "* t we 7 surpris$1 & ,i mu/ confess t x 0 ! only "t su* a ?+ ev] occurr$ to u 9 ,greece4 ,! ,turks tax ^! poor wret*es unm]cifully4 ,to beg9 )1 !y h to pay ! ,gov]nm5t "o-f\r? ( _! produce4 ,!n !re is ! k>at* or poll tax1 :i* seems to be r v>iable 9 am\nt1 & ! *rea or local tax levi$ = ! local gov]nm5t1 :i* toge!r make up ab\t ano!r f\r?2 s t ! taxes am\nt to half ! ye>ly produce4 ,( c\rse ! p compla94 ,i c't tell y h[ (t5 ,i h be5 ask$ ',:5 w ! ,engli% come & deliv] u f ! ,turks1 :o eat out our s\ls8' ',& :y d !y delay8' ,"o ,greek told me he pray$ daily t ! ,franks might come2 & :ile ,i am on ! subject ,i may z well m5tion "h1 ?\gh x 0 said a few weeks lat]1 :5 we 7 ne> ,cor9?1 by a %eph]d1 ',i pray to ,god ,i may live to see ! ,morea fill$ ) su* ,franks4' ,!y l u bett] ?an !y d ! ,fr5*1 because !y h he>d f ,zante & else:]e t we treat our dep5d5cies m hon\rably ?an !y d4 ,we 7 five days at ,&ritz5a4 ,hall] made draw+s ( ! village1 & ,i f9i%$ up my memor&a ( ,phigaleia4 ,besides t1 z ,i ?\ght we ought n to leave ! neighb\rhood )\t mak+ a f9al ef=t to complete our explorations at ! /yl1 & t1 ! ,pa%a ,veli be+ abs5t f ! ,morea1 we might p]haps get leave f ! ,waiwode ( ,fan>i1 ,fo/] & ,i rode ov] to see him4 ,we f\nd him exce$+ly c\rte\s1 p]fectly a man ( ! _w2 & al?\gh 8 h\se & ! two old cu%ions 9 ! corn] ( a dilapidat$ gall]y on :i* he 0 propp$ :5 he receiv$ u did n bespeak great afflu5ce1 8 mann] 0 n t ( a man to :om "o c\ld (f] a bribe4 ,he said he regrett$ v mu* hav+ _h to write ! lett] we _h receiv$ =bidd+ u to g on digg+1 b t x 0 absolutely necess>y t we %\ld cease1 & !re 0 an end ( ! matt]4 ,at ! same "t he hop$ !re _h be5 no expression 9 x to (f5d u4 ',veli1' said he1 'is v p]emptory ab\t no b\yuruldu or p]mission be+ giv5 by anyone b himself2 = he insi/s on kn[+ all ab\t travell]s :o move ab\t 9 8 pa%alik1 & ^u p]iodically inspect+ !m & _! firman & approv+ x4 ,! m]e fact ( my hav+ all[$ y\r p>ty to rema9 t5 days at ,phigaleia1 no matt] :e!r y dug or n1 0 en\gh to ru9 me2 = ^! ,albanians t is1 ,ali ,pa%a & 8 sons ask b few que/ions li/5 to no excuses4' ,s we _h to g back to ,&ritz5a )\t hav+ effect$ any?+ beyond see+ an ,albanian ,turki% w$d+ on our way4 ,:5 we came ^u !m !y 7 gorge\sly dress$1 play+ ! dj]id & br&i%+ _! swords4 ,i nev] saw any?+ s picturesque4 ,! p>ty 7 on _! way to fet* ! bride f ,fan>i4 ,!y _h an ,albanian r$ & :ite bann]1 ) a silk h&k]*ief ti$ to ! top ( x1 :i* 0 ! tok5 s5t by ! bride to h] lov] z an invitation to him to come & fet* h]4 ,aft] sunset %e is tak5 to 8 h\se on horseback1 closely veil$4 ,he>+ ( "s columns 9 an old ca/le n f> (f1 z ! acc\nt 0 a tol]ably rational "o1 ,i resolv$1 al?\gh ,i ought to h _h exp]i5ce en\gh ( ,greek lies to w>n me1 to g & see !m4 ,!re 0 ! hope ( mak+ "s discov]y ( int]e/2 = my in=mant insi/$ t no milords _h ev] be5 !re be=e4 ,s ,i girt myself ) sword & pi/ol1 & walk$ #b h\rs to a hill or m\nta9 call$ ,sultan4 ,i only f\nd a few mis]able columns1 a consid]able =tress & cyclopean walls1 & ,i made two sket*es on ! road4 ,i 0 v tir$ :5 ,i got back4 ,! ,greek %oemak]1 our l&lord1 came & supp$ ) u1 & got v maudl9 ov] ! w9e4 ,we w5t next to ,c>itz5a4 ,! waiwode insi/$ on our putt+ up ) him1 & gave up a room to u1 begg+ t we w\ld ord] :atev] be/ pleas$ u2 t 8 s]vants w\ld prep>e any?+1 & we %\ld pur*ase no?+4 ',our k+ at ,/amb\l is ri* en\gh to receive our fri5ds & allies1 ! ,engli%1' he said4 ,we 7 prep>+ to g out & draw :5 a message came to say ! waiwode w\ld pay u a visit4 ,hall]1 h[ev]1 w\ld n /op = anybody4 ,fo/] _h to ride back to a place :]e he _h *ang$ 8 coat & 9 s do+ _h dropp$ a r+ he valu$1 & :i*1 by ! by1 he manag$ to f9d4 ,s ,l9ckh & ,i1 ?\gh ,i felt v unwell ) a bili\s attack1 _h to /op 9 & receive our visitor4 ,he 0 v polite1 & 8 mann]s really v f9e4 ,he told u he _h be5 ) ! ambassador at ,vi5na & at ,b]l91 & spoke a few words ( ,g]man1 :i* en*ant$ ,l9ckh4 ,he pres5tly rem>k$ t ,i seem$ unwell1 & ,i told him t ,i 0 bili\s1 & _h a pa9 9 my head2 :]eupon he took hold ( my temples 9 8 "r h&1 :ile an old ,turk :o sat ne> d\bl$ d[n 8 little f+] & repeat$ a *>m1 :i* he began 9 a :isp] & f9i%$ al\d1 lean+ =w>d & pron\nc+ some?+ l ',osman ,odoo--o--o4' ,!n he ask$ me if ,i 0 bett]2 because if ,i 0 n he w\ld d\ble d[n 8 next f+] & ! next till he came to ! ?umb1 :i* he said 0 infallible4 ,?is prospect seem$ m ?an ,i c\ld q be>2 s ,i ?\ght be/ to sacrifice my pr9ciples1 & said ',yes1 ,i 01' to get rid ( ! matt]1 b ,i 0 n4 ,"s ,greeks came & jo9$ 9 our conv]sation4 ,really1 if "o _h n "s pity = _! condition1 "o c\ld n suff] !m1 _! mann]s are s odi\s4 ,nev]!less1 z !y seem to h all ! p[] "h & elect _! own gov]nor & give him an all[ance1 ! waiwode w\ld n jo9 me 9 criticis+ !m4 ,! waiwode cont9u$ to be z civil z ev]1 b ,i c\ld n help ?9k+ he look$ anxi\sly = pres5ts1 & we _h none to give him4 ,all ,i c\ld d 0 to (f] him "o ( ! common little brass ,engli% boxes ) a head ( ,k+ ,george on x1 fill$ ) b>k4 ,he took x ) e expression ( delight1 b ,i c\ld see x 0 put on4 ,we c\ld only ?ank him he>tily1 fee ! s]vants h&somely1 & b[ ourselves out ) ! be/ grace we c\ld assume4 ,he especially covet$ a m9iature ,fo/] wore ( a lady1 & ?is ,fo/] promis$ to h copi$ = him & s5t him f ,engl&2 b he c\ld n "p ) ! orig9al4 ,he gave u /rong lett]s ( recomm5dation = ,kalamata4 ,we left e>ly next day4 ,!re 0 an awkw>d little episode ( a box ( in/rum5ts belong+ to ,fo/]1 :i* he miss$ (f a c]ta9 s(a4 ,! ,boluk ba%i _h admir$ !m v mu*4 ,pres5tly1 :5 ! inquiry 0 made1 an (fic] ( ! ,boluk ba%i came 9 & se>*$ ne> ! s(a1 & !n sudd5ly w5t out4 ,we did ! same1 & lo6 !re 0 ! case4 ,& ! ,boluk ba%i look$ v disconc]t$ z we bade him adieu4 ,we foll[$ ! c\rse ( ! ,gyrt9as4 ,^! are m\nta9s :i* on all h&s are celebrat$ among ! mod]n ,greeks = ! exploits ( ! ,colocotroni#bh & o!r capta9s :o liv$ among ! hills & ma9ta9$ a sort ( indep5d5ce ( ! ,turks ev] s9ce !y h held ! ,morea4 ,! peasants delight to s+ ! ballads compos$ on ^! h]oes1 &1 exult+ 9 _! brav]y1 =get ! horrible b>b>ities !y committ$4 ,:5 ,smirke 0 "h ! c\ntry mu/ really h be5 9 a fe>ful /ate ( an>*y2 & :atev] we may say aga9/ him1 x mu/ be laid at any rate to ! cr$it ( ,veli ,pa%a t he has cle>$ ! ,morea ( b&itti4 ,! ,colocotroni & ! re/ ( !m h _h to fly ! c\ntry & enli/ 9 ,*ur*'s cont+5t at ,zante4 ,we sp5t "s "t at ,megalopolis1 & ) ,pausanias 9 our h&s 7 able to id5tify remnants ( almo/ ev]y?+ he m5tions1 9 especial ! spr+ ne> ! !atre1 :i* only runs "p ( ! ye>4 ,at ,lycosura ! ru9s are disappo9t+ly mod]n1 & !re is n mu* ( !m2 no?+ left ( ! anci5t temple at all4 ,! situation is v f9e4 ,two & a half h\rs' j\rney up a /ream ?r\gh woods br\ght u to ,d]v9e1 ! b\nd>y ( ,mess5ia4 ,!n we cross$ ! ,pla9 ( ,mess5ia1 admir+1 ev5 9 ! ra91 ! m\nta9s1 ,i?ome especially1 & at dusk got to a village two h\rs %ort ( ,kalamata4 ,our agroati did n "k ! road on1 & x 0 too late to get a guide2 b z !y told u ! road 0 q /raight we w5t on 9 ! d>k4 ,at ! end ( an h\r we _h lo/ ! track2 x 0 pit* black1 ra9+ /ill1 & we on ! edge ( a riv] 9 a m>%4 ,!re ,i ?\ght we %\ld h /ay$4 ,= f\r h\rs we grop$ ab\t1 look+ fir/ = ! lo/ pa?1 & !n = any pa? to any %elt]4 ,fir/ we tri$ giv+ ,hall]'s horse1 :o _h be5 to ,kalamata be=e1 a loose re9 & lett+ him lead ! way4 ,at fir/ x promis$ well1 = ! horse w5t ahead will+ly2 b ! agroati took ^u him to *ange 8 c\rse1 & !n we 7 z lo/ z ev]4 ,we c\ld h>dly see ea* o!r4 ,!n we s5t (f ! agroati to try & rea* a light we c\ld see4 ,he came back ) awful acc\nts ( bogs & dit*es he _h met 9 8 pa?4 ,f9ally1 aft] /&+ /ill = a "t 9 ! pelt+ ra91 we resolv$ to rea* ! light2 & s we did1 ov] h$ge & dit* & ?r\gh bogs1 & ,indian corn above our heads z we sat on horseback1 & at l5g?1 wet ?r\gh & we>i$1 rea*$ a cottage 9 :i* 7 "s ,greeks4 ,!y1 h[ev]1 refus$ to lead u to any h\se2 =1 said !y1 'we "k n :at m5 ye are4' ,at la/ "o good man took u into 8 h\se & gave u a room1 & figs & br&y = supp]4 ,we 7 ?ankful = any?+4 ,he 0 a poor peasant ) a pretty wife & a p]fectly lovely daught]4 ,we got to ,kalamata next day1 meet+ on ! way numb]s ( ,ma9iotes com+ to buy figs c4 9 ! ,mess5ian pla91 all arm$4 ,our baggage _h arriv$ v late ov]night4 ,we w5t to ! s-call$ consul1 an ag5t ( ! consul at ,patras1 & s5t ! lett] ( recomm5dation ( ! ,waiwode ( ,c>itz5a to ! ,waiwode ( ,kalamata2 b he took no notice ( x1 & did no?+ :atev] = u1 s we _h to f9d a h\se = ourselves4 ,we pit*$ ^u a l(ty ,turki% t[] comm&+ ! city1 ) a v rott5 floor :i* ?reat5$ at any mom5t to let u ?r\gh f ! second /orey to ! base4 ,! only way up to our room 0 by a crazy ladd]4 ,! %utt]s 7 riddl$ ) bullets4 ,"s "t be=e !re _h be5 a gr& engagem5t betwe5 ?is t[] & ! cupola ( a neighb\r+ *ur*1 :]e "s ,ma9iotes 9 ! s]vice ( "o ( _! great capta9s1 a c]ta9 ,b5a*i1 _h def5d$ !mselves4 ,kalamata seems to be a con/ant sc5e ( fights betwe5 ! p>ty ( ! ,bey appo9t$ by ! ,porte1 or r ! ,capitan ,pa%a1 & ! p>ty :o want to appo9t a ,bey ( _! own1 & ?is is ! way !y fight1 ea* p>ty f its own t[]4 ,f our t[] we made panoramic sket*es ( ! city1 b 7 mu* int]rupt$ by visitors4 ,among !m came a "y ,ma9iote ,albanian (fic] f ,*ur*'s cont+5t1 :o 0 "h recruit+4 ,he 0 accompani$ by two arm$ ,ma9iotes1 & said he _h tw5ty m conceal$ ab\t ! t[n 9 case ( dang]4 ,he invit$ u to come ) him into ,ma9a z f> z ,dolus1 :]e 8 family liv$1 a proposal we eag]ly clos$ )1 & appo9t$ ! next morn+4 ,,footnote3 #bh ,"o ,colocotronis1 a *ief ( klephts1 atta9$ great influ5ce 9 ! ,w> ( ,indep5d5ce4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,trip ,,to ,,ma9a--,,its ,,relative ,,prosp]ity--,,return ,,to ,,kalamata4 ,,second ,,trip ,,to ,,ma9a--,,murg9os--,,sp>ta--,,napoli ,,to ,,a!ns4 ,! ,ma9iote bord] comes to )9 half a mile ( ,kalamata1 & ! neighb\rhood ( its f]oci\s population1 :o are z savage & ev5 brav] ?an ! ,turks1 makes ! latt] mu* meek] "h ?an 9 o!r p>ts ( ! c\ntry--t is1 9 a g5]al way1 = !y c be v fi]ce /ill on occasions4 ,a gha/ly ?+ happ5$ dur+ our /ay4 ,we he>d "o ev5+ ! report ( a pi/ol 9 ! h\se ( ! ,albanian gu>d :i* /ood j "u our w9d[s4 ,x seem$ "o ( ! brutes _h %ot 8 bro!r 9 a qu>rel4 ,"h 0 a gruesome example "u our eyes2 & besides ,i 0 told all sorts ( hide\s /ories ( ,ma9iote & ,albanian cruelties :i* made my blood run cold1 & /ill spoils all my pleasure 9 ?9k+ ( ?is b>b>\s region4 ,e>ly 9 ! morn+ we emb>k$ on a ,zantiote felucca1 l5t u = ! occasion1 & 9 an h\r & a half rea*$ ! opposite coa/ ( ! bay1 ne> ! ru9s ( a village1 ( :i* we 7 told t x 0 de/roy$ & its inhabitants c>ri$ (f = slaves by ! ,b>b>y pirates4 ,ev] s9ce ?is ev5t ! villages h be5 built f>!r f ! coa/4 ,! village ( ,dolus1 to :i* we 7 go+1 is an h\r's walk f ! %ore4 ,our fri5d's bro!r & a numb] ( o!r m51 all arm$ to ! tee?1 met u on ! bea* & salut$ u1 z soon z we 7 recognis$1 ) a dis*>ge ( guns & pi/ols4 ,!n we l&$1 & set (f = ! village4 ,a diff]5ce 9 ! appe>ance ( ! c\ntry /ruck me at once4 ,in/ead ( ! des]t$ languid air ( o!r p>ts ( ,greece1 "h 0 a vigor\s prosp]ity4 ,n an in* ( available gr\nd b 0 till$ & plant$ ) c>eful husb&ry1 poor & rocky z ! soil 04 ,! villages 7 neat] & less pov]ty-/rick51 & ! population evid5tly mu* ?ick] ?an 9 ! re/ ( ,greece4 ,! faces ( ! m5 7 *e]ful & op52 ! wom5 h&som]1 & _! co/ume m becom+4 ,lib]ty seem$ to h *ang$ ! :ole c\nt5ance & mann] ( ! p to gaiety & happ9ess4 ,ev]yone salut$ u z we pass$ along1 & :5 we arriv$ at ,dolus ! "m ( our ent]ta9] came out ) ! greate/ frankness to meet u4 ,o!rs came1 & ) v engag+ mann]s wi%$ u _m ye>s1 a r>e civility 9 ,greece4 ,! boys cr[d$ r\nd1 & said ,engli%m5 7 f9e fell[s1 b :y _h we no arms8 ,h[ c\ld we def5d ourselves8 ,!n !y %ook _! fi/s at ! ,turki% %ore1 say+ ^? ruffians d>$ n come among/ ,ma9iotes4 ,our ho/'s family _h cook$ u "s *ick5s4 ,:ile we 7 sitt+ eat+ !m a multitude ( visitors1 wom5 especially1 :o _h nev] se5 ,franks be=e1 came 91 gaz$1 & ask$ que/ions4 ,!re 0 a great deal ( laugh+ & talk+1 b e man 0 heavily arm$4 ,aft] d9n] we w5t out = a walk & visit$ "s rem>kably pretty villages4 ,! "n ( "o 0 ,malta1 ! o!rs ,i c\ld n make out2 all m 9 ! int]ior4 ,! *ur*es 7 v pretty4 ,ea* _h a tall /eeple 9 ! ,go?ic /yle ) bells1 :i* a boy1 pr\d ( 8 fre$om & anxi\s to %[ x1 runn+ on1 w\ld r+ z we came up2 =1 z y "k1 nei!r bells nor /eeples are all[$ by ! ,turks4 ,we saw a new t[]1 ! t[] ( ! beyzesday1 or capta9 ( ! ,ma9iotes1 arm$ ) two ?irty-p\nd]s :i* _h be5 giv5 him1 & ?\gh n v solidly built1 /&+ 9 a f9e position4 ,we 7 told t all ^! t[]s are provision$ = a siege1 & "o ( ^? ne> ,kalamata has food = five ye>s--n t ,i believe x4 ,all slept toge!r1 t5 ( u cov]+ ! :ole floor ( a t9y room4 ,we w5t back 9 ! morn+ to ,kalamata1 leav+ beh9d u our ho/4 ,he _h be5 w>n$ by lett] f ,kalamata n to g back !re1 = reports _h be5 circulat$ by ! ,turks t he 0 gone to ,ma9a to raise recruits & he w\ld probably be arre/$ if he l&$4 ,we _h be5 s int]e/$ ) our glimpse ( ! free ,greeks--! ,greeks :o _h always be5 free f ! days ( ,sp>ta1 :o _h ma9ta9$ _! indep5d5ce aga9/ ,rome1 ,byzantium1 ! ,franks1 ,v5etians1 & ,turks--t we long$ to see m ( !m2 & ! reports we he>d ( a temple ne> ,cape ,matapan gave u hopes ( a return = ! exp5se ( an excursion4 ,we !re=e agre$ ) a c]ta9 ,capta9 ,basili ( ,dolus1 own] ( a boat1 t he %\ld take u to ,cyp>issa & protect u into ! int]ior4 ,mean:ile we w5t home to get our baggage c4 ,z we r[$ along ! %ore a /orm hung on ,m\nt ,elias1 roll+ 9 huge coils among ! high p]*$ villages1 & ! awful gr&eur & air ( savage romance x gave to ! :ole c\ntry :ett$ our appetites to ! utmo/4 ,:5 we l&$ at ,kalamata1 h[ev]1 a dispute ab\t paym5t = ! pres5t trip l$ u to ref] to ! consul = a settlem5t1 & incid5tally to our tell+ him our plans4 ,z soon z he he>d !m he object$ vigor\sly4 ,! man we _h engag$ 01 he said1 a notori\s murd]]2 x 0 well kn[n t he _h assass9at$ a c]ta9 ,greek doctor = 8 money :5 he 0 br++ him f ,coron1 & he might d ! same = u on ! way to ,cyp>issa4 ,x w\ld be bett] if we insi/$ on go+ into ,ma9a to write to a c]ta9 ,capta9 ,murg9o at ,sc>damula & put ourselves "u 8 protection4 ,z he 0 "o ( ! heads ( ! ,ma9iote clans1 & a man ( p[]1 he w\ld be able to gu>antee our safety4 ,z ?is advice 0 support$ by a ,fr5* g5tleman ( ,c]vu1 a ,monsieur ,%auv]e1 :o seem$ to be reliable1 we took x1 & wrote t same ev5+ to ,murg9o2 b ! fir/ engagem5t _h to be got rid (1 & t 0 n s easy4 ,:atev] 8 int5tions _h be51 ! boatman f ,dolus ?\ght he _h made a pr(itable engagem5t1 = he dem&$ #ej pia/res indemnity1 fir/ = exp5ses incurr$ & next = ! slight4 ,he ?reat5$ to attack u on ! way if we v5tur$ to engage ano!r boat4 ,f9ally we agre$ to ref] ! dispute = settlem5t to ! ,albanian ,ma9iote1 our late ho/4 ,we receiv$ an answ] f ,murg9o to say t we %\ld be v welcome1 & t he w\ld s5d a gu>d to meet u f\r h\rs f 8 h\se4 ,we accord+ly set (f 9 ! ev5+ to g by l&1 & arriv$ at night at a village call$ ,m&9i2 & !re we _h to sleep1 = ! road 0 too breakneck = u to g on 9 ! d>k4 ,our ho/ 0 exce$+ly hospitable1 & gave "o a good impression ( ! free ,greeks4 ,e>ly 9 ! morn+ we w5t on to ,malta1 & met f\r ( ,murg9o's m5 come to meet u4 ,we also fell 9 ) ! "y capta9 or *iefta9 ( ,ma9iotes on 8 way to ,kalamata4 ,he _h a gu>d ( eight or t5 m51 all arm$ & h&somely dress$1 _! hair trail+ d[n _! backs l true desc5dants ( ! ,sp>tans1 :o comb$ _! long hair be=e go+ into battle4 ,z reg>d+ ! orig9 ( ! "n ,malta1 x may be call$ to m9d t ! ,v5etians dur+ _! occupation mortgag$ "p ( ! ,morea to ! ,knights ( ,/4 ,john1 & ?is may h be5 "o ( _! =tresses4 ,hav+ hir$ mules to c>ry our luggage1 z ! road is too bad = horses1 we proce$$ to ,sc>damula1 a di/ance ( #a h\r4 ,!re we 7 rejo9$ by my s]vant ,dimitri1 :om ,i _h s5t on to arrange ! affair ( ,capta9 ,basili1 ! ,dolus boatman4 ,he _h f\nd ! man 9 a /ate ( exasp]ation1 refus+ to accept any accommodation1 say+ x 0 an affair ( hon\r1 & v[+ t we %\ld pay 9 ano!r way4 ,! wife & "m ( ! ,albanian (fic]1 dread+ 8 res5tm5t1 _h hung t]rifi$ on 8 7,dimitri's7 arm1 assur+ him t we %\ld be assass9at$ on ! road4 ,he himself arriv$ h>dly able to speak ) t]ror & pale z pap]4 ,we did all we c\ld to inspire him ) a little c\rage1 bo? natural & ,dut*4 ,fir/ we appeal$ to him z a man to %[ a good face1 & = ! second we gave him a good & ample d9n]1 &1 rely+ on our gu>d & on ourselves1 set out4 ,b be=e />t+ we begg$ our ,albanian fri5d to come1 if he c\ld1 next day to ,sc>damula1 br++ ,capta9 ,basili ) him1 & ! dispute %\ld be ref]r$ to ,capta9 ,murg9o = arbitration4 ,! pa? to ,sc>damula--= !re 0 no?+ 9 ! %ape ( a road--0 n[ s difficult t we _h to get (f2 &1 ev5 s1 x 0 to me p]fectly wond]ful h[ ! mules ev] got along4 ,!re 0 no?+ b rock1 & t all fissur$ & jagg$ lime/one1 b !y climb$ ov] x l goats4 ,! situation ( ,sc>damula is inf9itely /rik+4 ,at ! gate ( 8 ca/le ,capta9 ,murg9o wait$ to receive u--a fat1 h&some old man4 ,at ! fir/ our r /range appe>ance seem$ to put him a little out ( c\nt5ance1 & he receiv$ u awkw>dly al?\gh k9dly2 b aft] a "t he appe>$ to rega9 confid5ce & became v cordial4 ',eat a good supp]1 ,+les ar*i mas' 7'my little ,engli%man'71 he said to me1 & gave me ! example4 ,he talk$ freely on ! political /ate ( ,ma9a4 ,he own$ & regrett$ t ! ,greeks _h no lead]1 & said he tru/$ t w\ld n long be want+1 & t %ortly ! great object ( 8 desires w\ld be realis$2 b :at t object 0 he w\ld n expla94 ,x might be an invasion ( ! ,morea by ! ,engli%1 second$ by a native insurrection :i* he w\ld take a lead+ "p 9--or :at n2 b he 0 c>eful to give me no h9t4#bi ,8 son 0 abs5t at a c\ncil ( ! ,greek *iefs at ,m>a?onisi4 ,! next morn+ we walk$ ab\t 8 l&s1 :i* 7 indescribably picturesque4 ,8 ca/le /&s on a rock 9 ! b$ ( a riv]1 ab\t a qu>t] ( a mile f ! bank4 ,x consi/s ( a c\rty>d & a *ur* surr\nd$ by v>i\s t[]s4 ,!re is a /one b5* at 8 door1 :]e he sits surr\nd$ by 8 vassals & 8 relations1 :o all /& unless invit$ to sit4 ,! village p br+ him pres5ts1 tribute z x 71 ( fruits1 f[ls1 c4 ,on a l(ty rock close by is a wat*-t[]1 :]e wat* is kept night & day4 ,! :ole gave u a picture ( feudal life new & h>dly cr$ible to a n9ete5?-c5tury ,engli%man4 ,beh9d ! t[] ! m\nta9s rise precipit\sly1 & culm9ate 9 ! ,p5t$actylon--a prodigi\s m\nta9 ( ! ,taygetus range4 ,murg9o made u an e/imate ( 8 dep5d5ts4 ,he has ab\t #a1jjj m51 ov] :om he has absolute au?ority to call !m out or to puni% !m z he ?9ks fit4 ,a few days be=e we came he _h _h an ob/rep]\s subject1 :o refus$ to obey ord]s1 execut$4 ,moreov]1 he %[$ a well 9 :i* he said he put ^? f :om he desir$ to extort money4 ,:5 times are h>d & ! olives fail he makes w> ^u 8 neighb\rs1 & ei!r robs or blackmails !m4 ,! old man assur$ me t "o w9t] !y br\ght back f #a1jjj to #a1ejj pia/res1 f #ejl4 to #hjl41 a day4 ,su* 0 our ho/ & 8 surr\nd+s4 ,z ,i told y1 our object 0 to exam9e "s rema9s we _h he>d rum\rs (1 especially ( a ,doric temple said to exi/ 9 ! s\!rn "p ( ,ma9a1 &1 by all we c\ld he>1 9 a tol]able /ate ( pres]vation2 b :5 we saw ! trem5d\s prep>ations made by our good capta9 we f\nd ! ent]prise beyond all our calculations or means4 ,he decl>$ he c\ld n ensure our safety )\t 8 own att5dance ) a gu>d ( =ty m5 at ! lea/4 ,at ?is we ?\ght x be/1 h[ev] regrettable1 to retire be=e ! exp5ses we %\ld incur %\ld emb>rass u 9 our return to ,a!ns4 ,s we only /ay$ two days ) ,murg9o1 & !n return$ to ,kalamata4 ,z y may suppose1 ,i 0 v sorry to lose an opportunity ( p]haps mak+ ano!r discov]y ( importance1 b ev5 z x 0 ,i did n regret to h made ! visit into ,ma9a4 ,9 no "p ( ,europe at any rate1 if inde$ ( ! _w1 c\ld "o f9d su* s+ul> sc5es or come ^u a /ate ( society s exactly l t ( our anci5t b>ons4 ,! "* ( ,murg9o himself 0 a /udy4 ,he 0 v h>dy1 bold1 vigor\s 9 m9d & body1 us$ f a boy to battle ) all k9ds ( rev]ses4 ,8 fa!r 0 driv5 out ( 8 home by ! ,turks1 :o br\ght sev]al frigates & regul>ly laid siege to ,sc>damula4 ,he escap$1 b he 0 aft]w>ds tak5 & hang$ at ,tripolizza4 ,murg9o himself escap$ to ,coron1 :]e1 h[ev]1 he 0 discov]$ & put 9 *a9s4 ,a fri5dly prie/ br\ght him a file1 :]e) he effect$ 8 escape to ! h\se ( ! ,engli% consul1 & 0 by him protect$4 ,he !n took s]vice on bo>d a ,fr5* private]1 & w&]$ into v>i\s p>ts ( ! ,levant4 ,aft] "s "t he reappe>$ at ,sc>damula1 took possession ( 8 fa!r's ca/le1 & became "o ( ! capta9s or lead]s ( ! ,ma9iotes4 ,!n ! ,turks return$ & surr\nd$ him a second "t4 ,) a few foll[]s he cut 8 way ?r\gh & escap$ to ,zante4 ,"s mon?s lat] he came back once m1 to f9d a neighb\r _h seiz$ 8 possessions4 ,he collect$ fri5ds & laid siege to him4 ,8 rival 01 =tunately = him1 kill$ by a /roke ( lightn+ dur+ ! siege1 & ,murg9o came into 8 own aga94 ,b he did n hold x long 9 peace4 ,he 0 aga9 attack$ by ! ,turks 9 =ce4 ,?is "t he %ut himself 9 ! ca/le ) #fb ,greeks1 :o swore to die r ?an yield4 ,= =ty days !y held ! place ) muskets aga9/ artill]y1 till all 8 p[d] 0 sp5t & 8 t[]s 9 ru9s4 ,!n he s5t a message to ! enemy to say t if !y w\ld give him two cannon & "s p[d] he w\ld hold ! ca/le a ye>4 ,hav+ soo!d 8 m9d ) ?is taunt1 he prep>$ to escape to ! m\nta9s4 ,fir/ he s5t 8 wife (f by night1 & !n foll[$ ) ! few survivors ( 8 m51 & contriv$ aga9 to get to ,zante4 ,x is *>act]i/ic ( ! man t :5 he le>nt t 8 son 0 hang$ he call$1 z he told me1 = ano!r glass ( rum1 say+ ',*e s]ve la melancolia8' ,among ! ruffianly crew :o loaf$ ab\t ! place he po9t$ me out "o or two ( ! poor fell[s :o _h rema9$ hidd5 9 ! hills :5 he w5t to ,zante4 ,"s _h lo/ a toe or a f+] 9 ! fro/2 o!rs _h be5 maim$ 9 ! siege4 ,"o y\? 9 p>ticul> he indicat$1 say+ ',?is fell['s fa!r 0 a f9e fell[2 he 0 cru%$ 9 ! fall+ ( "o ( ! t[]s6' ,e "o _h a hi/ory4 ,someh[1 be=e we p>t$1 ,i _h got to feel a sort ( affection = ?is ru?less cat]an4 ,he _h an uncommonly op5 frank mann]1 he 0 c]ta9ly clean1 & he _h an air ( natural sup]iority :i* x 0 difficult to resi/4 ,i %\ld n h writt5 s mu* ab\t ?is if ,i _h n ?\ght x ! mo/ int]e/+ "p ( ! t\r--b x _h n1 ,i admit1 mu* ar*itectural in/ruction to (f]4 ,f ,kalamata we w5t to ,sp>ta1 ov] a rugg$ & picturesque road1 along ! br9k ( precipices & ov] ! ,taygetus4 ,"s "t ago x 0 infe/$ by b&itti1#cj & s x /ill is on ! bord]s ( ,ma9a4 ,we arriv$ late at a small village ne> ,mi/ra4 ,! road1 :i* pass$ among ov]hang+ rocks & a wild & fanta/ic sc5]y1 ! effect ( :i* 0 height5$ by ! moonlight1 0 s /ony & rugg$ t we 7 oblig$ to walk by f> ! great] "p ( ! way4 ,sometimes ! %eph]ds on precipices above u w\ld call out1 ',:at m5 are ye8' ,& we answ]$1 ',good m54' ,!re 0 no /ep ( ! road t _h n its annals ( murd] or robb]y4 ,"o ( our p>ty1 to *e] u1 sang u ! great de$s ( a c]ta9 ,capta9 ,zaccani1 :o _h be5 some?+ betwe5 a highwayman & a patriot n _m ye>s back1 infe/+ ?is "p ( ! c\ntry4 ,sp>ta1 ,i ne$ n tell y1 0 /rong only 9 its inhabitants4 ,x /ood1 z no o!r ,greek city did1 9 a pla94 ,!re are no rema9s4 ,its pres5t inhabitants1 f> f be+ indep5d5t1 are ! mo/ oppress$1 ! meane/ & ! /upide/ ( ! ,greeks4 ,we /ay$ only ?ree days = ,hall]1 :o _h v>i\s draw+s to make1 & !n rode f ,mi/ra to ,tripolizza 9 "o day4 ,hall] _h _h a fall f 8 horse on ! way :i* _h /ra9$ him a good deal1 s we _h to /op ?ree days !re also4 ,x is ! capital ( ! ,morea1 & has a caimacam1 :om we w5t to call ^u "o ev5+4 ,x *anc$ to be dur+ ! ,ramazan4 ,he 0 v civil & gave u a b\yuruldu1 an ord] :i* provid$ u horses gratis to ,a!ns4 ,! details ( ! visit 7 v mu* ! same z ^? ( o!r (ficial visits4 ,we drank c(fee & smok$ l>ge pipes surr\nd$ by a cr[d ( *i\ks4 ,! l>ge & well-light$ room 0 fill$ ) ,albanian soldi]s ly+ & sitt+ 9 all positions on ! floor1 & we _h to be c>eful 9 pick+ our way ?r\gh !m4 ,we did n /op long] at ,argos or ,tiryns ?an 0 necess>y to v]ify ,gell's description4 ,at ,napoli di ,romagna1 :]e we 7 deta9$ = want ( horses1 we n>r[ly escap$ ! ba/9ado4 ,napoli is "o ( ! *ief =tresses ( ! ,morea1 & ! cu/om on ent]+ su* places is to get (f "o's horse4 ,our s]vant1 :o knew no?+ ( ?is1 0 cruelly beat5 by ! gu>d4 ,:5 we came up we 7 told ( x by ! grooms :o look$ aft] our luggage1 & conjur$ by ! ,panagia & ! ,cross to dism\nt z we w5t 94 ,we1 h[ev]1 ?\ght x unbecom+ our dignity1 & rode boldly 94 ,! gu>d1 see+ s _m hats1 0 aw$ & said no?+2 b we c\ld see by ! fr[ns ( ! by/&]s t our presumption 0 disapprov$1 & :5 we compla9$ to ! pa%a1 ! head ( ! janiss>ies1 ( ! way our s]vant 0 mi%&l$1 he took v little notice ( u4 ,g5]ally speak+ ! ,turks 9 _! =tresses are insuff]ably intol]ant & insol5t4 ,our treatm5t 0 no inducem5t to /ay1 & we made on = ,a!ns z soon z we c\ld4 ,we visit$ ! sacr$ grove at ,epidaurus1#ca ! ru9s ( ,myc51#cb & /ay$ "o day 9 ,cor9?4 ,b we 7 glad to get to ,a!ns2 x 0 l home to u4 ,= ?ree weeks ,i _h slept ) my clo!s on1 )\t a b$1 & ) only "o blanket to wrap myself 94 ,,footnotes3 #bi ,x probably 0 ! insurrection1 = :5 x occurr$ he took an important "p 9 x4 ,he 0 ! oppon5t ( ! ,mavro ,mi*ali faction1 head$ by ,petro ,bey4 #cj ,"h x 0 t ,*evali] ,bron/$t 0 /opp$ next ye> & robb$3 vide infra4 #ca ,! ,hi]on ( ,epidaurus excavat$ by ! ,ar*ological ,society ( ,a!ns4 #cb ,excavat$ by ,s*liemann 9 #ahgf4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,g9a ,,m>bles ,,call$ ,,= ,,by ,,briti% ,,gov]nm5t ,,%ips--,,leaves ,,a!ns ,,= ,,crete ,,& ,,egypt ,,) ,,hon4 ,,francis ,,nor?--,,canea--,,condition ,,( ,,crete--,,by ,,l&--,,retimo--,,kalipo ,,*ri/o--,,c&ia--,,audi5ce ,,( ,,! ,,pa%a--,,8 ,,b&-- ,,! ,,ar*bi%op--,,! ,,milit>y ,,comm&ant--,,turki% ,,society--,,life ,,9 ,,c&ia4 ,wait+ = me 9 ,a!ns ,i f\nd lett]s f my fa!r detail+ ! measures he _h tak5 9 our fav\r conc]n+ ! m>bles4 ,he _h mov$ ! ,pr9ce ,reg5t1 :o _h giv5 ord]s t #f1jjjl4 & a free entry %\ld be (f]$ = ! collection1 & t a %ip ( w> %\ld be s5t to fet* x4 ,! (f] might be consid]$ equal to #h1jjjl4 ,! %ip might be expect$ at once4 ,"h 0 a bitt] disappo9tm5t to be unable to accept s spl5did an (f]1 & a pa9ful emb>rassm5t z well2 = ,i _h l$ ! ,gov]nm5t1 q un9t5tionally1 to suppose t !y _h only to s5d = ! m>bles to secure !m4 ,9 consequ5ce ( :i* !y 7 s5d+ two great vessels at great exp5se1 :]eas ,i %\ld n[ h to tell ! capta9 n only t ! m>bles 7 no long] 9 ,a!ns--b t !y c\ld n be h&$ ov] at all4 ,at ?is mom5t ! ,hon\rable ,mr4 ,nor?1#cc an acqua9tance already made 9 ,con/ant9ople1 _h turn$ up 9 ,a!ns1 & int5d$ mak+ an exp$ition to ,egypt up ! ,nile z f> z ,!bes4 ,he propos$ to ,cock]ell & ,fo/] to jo9 him4 ,egypt _h be5 "p ( ! =m]'s orig9al s*eme 9 plann+ 8 travels1 & ! opportunity ( %>+ exp5ses 0 n "o to be lo/4 ,s x 0 agre$1 & all prep>ations 7 made = ! j\rney4 ,!y 7 to h />t$ 9 ! beg9n+ ( ,novemb]1 b 7 delay$ by unfav\rable w9ds4 ,i 0 a mon? 9 ,a!ns1 = ! mo/ "p unpr(itably1 z all "t sp5t 9 expectation mu/ be4 ,e day we pack$ up1 to unpack aga9 :5 ! w9d w5t contr>y4 ,f9ally1 on ,novemb] #bi?1 ! wi%$-= w9d came1 & at ! same "t an express f ,capta9 ,p]cival ( ! brig-(-w> ,paul9e #be1 come = ! m>bles1 call$ u d[n to ! ,piru to see ! %ip s5t by ! ,pr9ce ,reg5t4 ,x 0 ra9+ 9 torr5ts4 ,nev]!less we set out1 ) ,hall] & ,l9ckh z well1 to expla9 matt]s4 ,i own my con/]nation 0 great :5 ,i saw ! two big %ips come on a bootless que/1 = :i* ,i 0 9 a way answ]able4 ,we _h to tell ,capta9 ,p]cival n only t ! m>bles 7 n[ 9 ,zante1 b t ev5 if !y _h be5 /ill "h he c\ld n h tak5 !m1 z !y 7 n[ to be sold by auction2 &1 f9ally1 z !re 0 dang] ( ,zante be+ at any "t attack$ by ! ,fr5*1 to reque/ him to remove !m to ,malta = great] security4 ,at fir/ ,capta9 ,p]cival 0 v indignant1 n unnaturally2 b :5 he _h done 8 duty 9 ?is respect he 0 v civil & ask$ u to d9e4 ,ale & port]1 :i* ,i _h n se5 = s long1 seem$ delici\s1 & ,i drank s mu* ( x t :51 ) ,nor?1 ,hall]1 & ,/ackelb]g1 ,i w5t abo>d our ,greek %ip to b$1 ,i slept l a /one till ! morn+ drum on ! ,paul9e woke me4 ,! w9d 0 bl[+ fre% f ! nor?4 ,we drew up our an*or2 ,hall] & ,/ackelb]g %ook u by ! h& & w5t a%ore4 ,& n[ = ,c&ia & ,egypt4 ,good port z ! ,piru is once y are inside1 to get 9 & out ( x is v awkw>d4 ,! brig1 ( c\rse1 well h&l$1 _h no difficulty2 b we fail$ altoge!r at ! fir/ attempt1 & at ! next z ne> z possible got on to ! rocks at ! entrance4 ,! ,paul9e laid to = u till we 7 out1 & !n sail$ ahead mu* m quickly ?an we 7 able to foll[4 ,! day 0 bright1 ! w9d 0 fair1 & x 0 new & exhil>at+ to sail 9 su* good company4 ,at g9a1 :]e ! temple /ood up cle> = u to see1 ! brig & ! transport lay to1 to l& a pilot1 & we w5t 9 front1 b !y soon caught u up aga92 & :5 !y pass$ u1 comp>+ _! trimness & ord] ) our /ate1 ,i saw :y a ,greek always speaks ) su* awe ( an ,engli% %ip4 ,betwe5 ,hydra--a black & b>r5 rock--& ! ma9l& a /orm1 :i* we j escap$1 swept along1 & our capta9 see+ x1 & ?9k+ dirty wea!r might come on1 /e]$ t[>ds ,milo s z to be able to put 9 !re 9 case ( dang]1 & we p>t$ ) our convoy4 ,( our p>ty ,i 0 ! only "o :o 0 n ill1 & appe>$ at d9n]2 & z ! air 0 close bel[ among my sick fri5ds1 ,i pass$ ! night on deck 9 a seaman's coat4 ,9 ! morn+ ,c&ia 0 9 sight1 & by midday we 7 9 ,canea--only tw5ty-eight h\rs4 ,z we drew ne>1 ! t[n1 ) its _m m9>ets1 all :ite & /ret*+ along a flat1 ) d>k m\nta9s1 peak above peak1 9 v f9e =ms beh9d x1 _h a mo/ /rik+ effect4 ,f a great di/ance "o c\ld di/+ui% ! l>ge ar*$ ars5als built by ! ,v5etians = _! galleys4 ,! port is difficult to ent]1 & we ne>ly ran a%ore "h aga9 by mi/ak+ a brea* 9 ! wall :i* encloses ! port = ! entrance to x4 ,x is a gap :i* has once be5 m5d$ by ! ,turks1 b x 0 s ill done t x fell 9 aga9 imm$iately2 & n[ x has be5 a ru9 = "s "t & seems likely to rema9 "o4 ,we dropp$ our an*or ill too1 s t ! /em ( our %ip ran f\l ( "s rocks1 b no h>m 0 done4 ,we l&$1 dress$ la ,turque1 & ,i felt "s 'mauvaise honte' 9 reply+ to ! salutation ( ,turks :o took u = _! fell[s1 s ,i 0 n sorry to take %elt] 9 ! h\se ( our consul1 ,sr4 ,capo ,grosso1 a native ( ,spalatro1 ) a pretty ,t>t> wife f ! ,crimea4 ,x appe>s t besides himself !re are v few ,franks liv+ "h--only two families desc5d$ f ! ,v5etians1 & two o!r ,ca?olic families1 all kept 9 a p]petual tremor by ! ,turks1 :o are worse 9 ,crete ?an any:]e4 ,!re are qu>rels & murd]s e day betwe5 !m & ! ,greeks4 ,!re nev] 0 su* a /ate z ! c\ntry is 94 ,! milit>y p[] consi/s ( a local militia ( janiss>ies & none o!r1 s t _! capta9s are able to t]rorise ! pa%a into do+ any?+ !y please4 ,b ! militia1 aga91 is compos$ ( v>i\s regim5ts1 & !y are at v>iance ) ea* o!r4 ,s t y h bo? an>*y & civil w>4 ,fancy1 h[ nice6 ,! ,v5etians long possess$ ! isl&1 & ! =tifications & public build+s1 :i* are really v noble1 z well z e o!r dec5t ?+ 9 ! place1 are ( _! production4 ,inde$1 9 walk+ ?r\gh ! city1 judg+ by ! look ( ! build+s1 "o might imag9e oneself 9 a ,frank c\ntry1 except t !y are all left to g to rack & ru94 ,! sea walls are s neglect$ t ! port is almo/ de/roy$4 ,x is1 z ,i said1 a =tifi$ t[n1 & ! ,turks are absurdly jeal\s ( any /rang] & possible spy4 ,"o _c /ir out )\t be+ closely wat*$1 & !y %oot at any?+ :i* incurs ! slighte/ suspicion--a ,franki% hat1 = in/ance4 ,9 consequ5ce x 0 impossible to d any sket*+1 h[ev] mu* ,i might wi% to4 ,! wea!r look$ ?or\ghly bad4 ,x p\r$ all day1 ) a nor? w9d :i* =bade all ?\ghts ( sail+4 ,to make ! be/ use ( our "t1 x 0 propos$ t we %\ld make an exp$ition to see ,ida & ! fam\s ,labyr9?2 b z ,mr4 ,nor? is no m\nta9 climb] he settl$ to wait 9 ! %ip = a fair w9d to c>ry him to ,c&ia1 :]e :i*ev] ( u %\ld arrive fir/ 0 to await ! o!r4 ,!re 0 "s delay 9 />t+1 because ! rascally ,turk f :om we fir/ tri$ to job our horses came to a dispute ) 8 agroates ab\t ! pay !y 7 to get4 ,?\gh he 0 to get t5 pia/res p] horse1 he w\ld only give !m five4 ,z !y c\ld n agree1 ! negotiation fell ?r\gh & x 0 r late be=e we got o!rs4 ,we 7 ,d\glas1#cd ,fo/]1 & myself1 ! consul's dragoman & two janiss>ies4 ,outside ! ramp>ts1 :i* are c]ta9ly /rong1 "o comes on a f9e pla9 dott$ ) :ite villas & ?ick ) olives4 ,"o own] ^: h\se we pass$1 ,hagi ,im9 ,eff5di1 makes z _m z #fj1jjj b>rels ( oil p] annum1 :i* at #fj pia/res a b>rel repres5ts a va/ income4 ,hav+ cross$ ! pla91 "o comes to ,suda ,bay1 an excell5t h>b\r1 a mile & a half or two miles 9 l5g?4 ,! entrance is protect$ by an isl& ) a fam\s =tress ^u x :i* resi/$ ! ,turks = ?irty-five ye>s aft] ! r$uction ( ! re/ ( ,crete4 ,x has #bfj pieces ( cannon n[4 ,soapmak+ is "o ( ! *ief indu/ries ( ,crete4 ,along ,suda ,bay 7 numb]s ( salt-pans = w9n+ ! salt want$ = ! soapmak+4 ,a ,v5etian road1 once good1 n[ 9 a ru9\s condition1 l$ u along a cliff flank$ ) wat*-t[]s1 & pres5tly turn$ inl&4 ,be=e u 0 a beautiful hilly c\ntry cov]$ ) olives1 & 9 ! di/ance ,ida :ite ) sn[4 ,on our "r ! ,sphakiote ,m\nta9s1 high & po9t$1 v l ,ma9a to look at1 & n unlike x 9 respect ( its population1 ?\gh x has n be5 q s =tunate4 ,! ,sphakiotes ma9ta9$ _! indep5d5ce till =ty-?ree ye>s ago1 b !n !y 7 r$uc$ by ! ,turks1 & h be5 pay+ taxes ev] s9ce1 & furni%+ sailors = ! ,turki% %ipp+4 ,^! sailors act z ho/ages = ! good behavi\r ( _! relatives4 ,all ! same !y are a bold p nev] )\t arms1 & prompt 9 ! use ( !m4 ,we slept t night at a wret*$ khan at ,neokorio 9 company ) our horses & _! vagabond driv]s1 & fleas 9 inf9ite abundance4 ,?omas1 ,d\glas's ,engli% s]vant1 made an ill-tim$ joke "h1 :i* might h be5 awkw>d among su* savage p4 ,! ,turks at supp]time press$ r\nd him to see :at 0 9 our food-bag1 & he1 to be rid ( !m1 told !m x 0 full ( pork4 ,at ?is !y express$ ! greate/ disgu/1 press$ ^u u to "k if x 0 true1 & refus$ to eat any?+ t night4 ,h[ev]1 no?+ m came ( x4 ,fleas & ! manifold v>ieties ( /9ks drove u to get ?r\gh our night's re/ z quickly z possible4 ,we 7 up & away two h\rs be=e daybreak1 scrambl+ along a r\gh road4 ,:5 ! sun rose ! effect ( x on ! sn[-cov]$ ,sphakiote ,hills 0 magnific5t4 ,our way 0 ?r\gh a c\ntry ri* 9 olives & full ( beautiful sc5es4 ,well situat$ at ! entrance to a valley lead+ up f ! sea1 z a def5ce aga9/ piratical desc5ts1 0 a =tress ) a ,greek3 pyrgos or wat*-t[]1 built by ! ,v5etians4 ,x is ( ! f9e workman%ip !y always us$1 ) well-arrang$ qu>t]s = troops1 moat1 c41 all v neat & well execut$4 ,!re we w5t d[n on to ! s&s & cont9u$ along !m = a l5g? ( "t till we rea*$ a small riv] & ! ru9s ( a spl5did ,v5etian bridge4 ,!nce /ill along ! seaside1 b ov] rocks & pa/ wat*-t[]s /&+ )9 gun%ot ( ea* o!r1 till we rose aga9 on to a height f :i* we ga9$ a gr& view ( ,retimo4 ,we cross$ a bridge1 a d\ble ar* ( great dep?1 prodigi\sly effective1 & !re ,i /opp$ to make a sket* be=e desc5d+ into ! t[n1 :ile ! luggage w5t on4 ,b :5 we foll[$ ,i 0 met by ! dragoman be=e ,i _h dism\nt$4 ,he look$ v pale1 & tell+ me t my /opp+ by ! road _h be5 rem>k$ & comm5t$ ^u1 entreat$ me n to say :at ,i _h be5 do+1 b to give 9 fact a mu* m natural reason4 ,i _h already1 at ,canea1 be5 w>n$ ( ! dang] ( draw+ ! =tress2 s1 my love ( tru? not)/&+1 ,i 0 oblig$ = ! dragoman's sake1 he be+ responsible1 to d z he ask$4 ,we 7 receiv$ into ! h\se ( ,a*met ,aga1 ! k>ahayah4 ,he 0 n at home himself at ! "t1 b 8 nephews & relatives made u welcome4 ,z soon z he came 9 we 7 u%]$ into an upp] room into 8 pres5ce4 ,he 0 a rem>kably h&some old man ) a long :ite be>d4 ,he receiv$ u ) a pr\d1 n to say cold1 hospitality2 s mu* s t :5 we ?ank$ him = 8 polite (f] ( 8 h\se1 z he said x 0 ours1 he look$ ! o!r way4 ,z we drank c(fee we made our apologies = our dirty appe>ance1 b he only said he fe>$ we 7 n com=table & begg$ u to re/ ourselves4 ,8 mann] 0 haughty n only to u b to ! wret*$ flatt]]s :o came to pay him homage2 x 0 su* t ,i 0 q (f5d$4 ,8 s]vants treat$ him ) ! mo/ abject respect1 & ev5 8 two nephews1 m5 ( ?irty or !reab\ts1 sat at ! side )\t ! divan1 n v5tur+ to approa* him4 ,& yet1 not)/&+ 8 mann]1 8 treatm5t ( u 0 hospitality & civility itself4 ,he _h a son ( sixte5 or sev5te5 ye>s dress$ 9 a ,bosnian co/ume--"o ( ! h&some/ lads ,i ev] saw1 l ! y\?s "o imag9es 9 read+ ! ,arabian tales4 ,he came by 8 fa!r's ord] to sit by me & ent]ta9 me4 ,i ask$ him if he _h ev] travell$1 & :e!r he w\ld come to ,egypt ) me & see ! _w4 ,he repli$ v politely t to please me he w\ld d s4 ,! audi5ce be+ ov]1 we w5t out & /roll$ d[n to ! port4 ,x has lately be5 deep5$ by a ,maltese eng9e]1 b is v small1 & might hold fifte5 or tw5ty polaccas at ! mo/4 ,aft] see+ x we return$ to get ready = ! d9n] to :i* our ho/ _h invit$ u4 ,z usual 9 su* h\ses "o _h to dress 9 ! mid/ ( a cr[d ( s]vants1 negroes1 d]vi%es1 & hang]s-on4 ,we put on our be/ clo!s & w5t up4 ,9 ! corn] ( ! s(a or rais$ divan 0 plac$ a l>ge r\nd tray on a small /ool1 & we sat r\nd x cross-legg$4 ,ov] our knees 0 /ret*$ a long napk9 f "o to ! o!r1 & a small "o 0 ?r[n ov] ea* man's %\ld]4 ,we ate ) our f+]s1 p9*+ (f bits ( meat f ! same plate 9 ! middle4 ,our janiss>y 0 invit$ to eat ) u4 ,! d9n] 0 dress$ 9 ! h>em4 ,! s]vant tapp$ at ! door communicat+ ) x f ! passage1 & ! di%es 7 h&$ 94 ,!re 7 _m ( !m1 & !y 7 s5t away by our ho/ )\t any app>5t notice ( any disposition on our "p to deta9 !m4 ,we _h a /ew ( f[ls1 ano!r ( mutton1 "s /range made-di%es1 a s\p1 a numb] ( cakes1 & ,i p>ticul>ly rememb] "s made ( fl\r & *eese :i* 7 excell5t4 ,we greas$ our f+]s h&somely & wa%$ !m z soon z we _h done4 ,= u !re 0 w9e1 b ,a*met w\ld n dr9k any himself3 n f virtue1 he said1 b because x did n agree ) him4 ,! h&some son wait$ )\t ! divan & took ord]s f 8 fa!r4 ,be=e d9n] 0 ov] an old ,turk came 9 ) a fiddle & play$ or told long /ories ! :ole ev5+4 ,i 0 oblig$ to him1 = x suppli$ ! place ( conv]sation1 :i* did n seem to fl\ri%4 ,9 ! ev5+ numb]s ( ,turks came 9 to see ! ',+lesi1' & w\ld h press$ =w>d1 b until our d9n] 0 done !y 7 kept outside ! s(a4 ,aft]w>ds we =m$ into a sort ( conv]sazione--v few words & mu* gravity4 ,f9ally ! beautiful y\?1 ! ho/'s son1 made b$s = u ( two quilts & a pill[ on ! s(a1 & !re we slept4 ,i wond] :at a "y squire 9 ,engl& w\ld say if 8 fa!r told him to make b$s = 8 gue/s4 ,next morn+ we 7 mu* press$ to /ay bo? by our ho/ & 8 son1 b we _h to resi/1 mu* z we _h be5 pleas$ ) our ent]ta9m5t4 ,s we di/ribut$ pl5tiful bak%i% & rode away4 ,our road lay along ! %ore1 ) f9e views ( ,retimo & ! ,sphakiote ,hills4 ,!n ov] a high ridge to a khan at ! foot ( ,ida4 ,"h we _h "s refre%m5ts & a dispute ) ! khangee1 :o tri$ to /eal "o ( our spoons "u cov] ( great pr(essions ( fri5dl9ess4 ,aft] ,avlopotamo ! road became v dang]\s4 ,x ran by ! side ( awful precipices & ov] slipp]y rocks1 & x 0 gett+ d>k4 ,inde$1 _h x be5 light] ,i don't suppose we %\ld h ridd5 ov] x4 ,9 "o place our janiss>y fell1 & 8 horse's legs dangl$ ov] ! precipice 9 a way to make "o's blood run cold4 ,no roads 9 ,ma9a c\ld be worse4 ,! light ( a fire beckon$ u f af> to ! mona/]y ( ,kalipo ,*ri/o1 b we f\nd ! gate clos$ & ! papades n to be se54 ,!y 7 fright5$ & _h hidd5 !mselves4 ,! fact is1 ! ,turks 9 ! c\ntry "h are s brutal & lawless t if !y once get into a mona/]y ( ?is k9d !y eat & dr9k all !y c get1 nev] ?9k ( pay+1 & p]haps rob or murd] "s ( ! monks4 ,!re 7 sev]al little boys hang+ ab\t to peep at u1 "o ( :om our janiss>y caught1 & by draw+ 8 sword & ?reat5+ to imbrue x 9 8 blood he t]rifi$ him into fet*+ ! monks out ( _! concealm5t4 ,once 91 ! papades 7 v communicative4 ,!y told u t _! conv5t 0 n freehold1 & t x belong$ to a ,turk ( ,canea1 :o exact$ an exorbitant r5t4 ,! ru9\s condition ( ! villages :i* we obs]v$ z we came along 0 due1 !y said1 to ! e>?quake ( ,febru>y #ad1 #ahaj4 ,x came1 z !y always d1 ) a we/ w9d1 & z _m z two ?\s& lives 7 lo/4 ,a blackgu>dly ,t>t> came & sat ) u1 ) :om we pres5tly qu>rell$1 & f9ally1 :5 8 behavi\r grew intol]able1 we _h to kick him out4 ,we left e>ly1 b our ,t>t> mu/ h be5 a%am$ ( himself1 = we saw no?+ ( him2 he _h gone on4 ,! road w\nd up & up among b>r5 rocks = ab\t five h\rs1 till we rea*$ ! ridge & a /up5d\s view ( ,c&ia1 ,ida1 & ! sea4 ,9 ?ree h\rs m we rea*$ ,c&ia1 & took up our qu>t]s 9 ! h\se ( a ,jew4 ,!re1 9 ! c\rse ( ! ev5+1 we receiv$ a visit f ! dragoman ( ! pa%a1 a v /upid ,greek1 :o tri$ to be v1 v gr&1 & lat] f ! ma/] ( ! pa%a's h\sehold1 ,*i\k ,em5e1 a mo/ urbane ,turk4 ,he 0 v p>ticul>ly pr\d ( 8 wat*1 & produc$ x1 comp>$ x ) ours1 & begg$ me to say 8 0 ! be/4 ,we _h to wait till ! pa%a %\ld be ready to receive u at "o o'clock4 ,!n he s5t to u1 & we walk$ (f ?r\gh ! /reets to 8 palace1 locally kn[n z ! porte4 ,! entrance 0 surr\nd$ ) a cr[d ( janiss>ies4 ,:5 we _h pass$ !m we 7 u%]$ into ! room ( ! secret>y1 :om we f\nd sitt+ 9 "o corn] ( 8 s(a1 surr\nd$ ) agas 9 s mu* /ate t ,i mi/ook him = ! pa%a himself4 ,we 7 !re b a few m9utes1 b long en\gh to see t he mu/ be a man ( tal5t4 ,we aft]w>ds le>nt t he 0 & _h _m accompli%m5ts4 ,he c\ld write1 ride1 & play ! dj]id bett] ?an anyone4 ,! dj]id he c\ld ca/ z high z a m9>et4 ,pres5tly we 7 l$ ?r\gh a cr[d ( s]vants into ! pres5ce ( ! pa%a4 ,he 0 9 ! corn]1 sitt+ 9 great magnific5ce4 ,8 pelisse 0 wor? #bj1jjj pia/res4 ,by 8 side 0 a diamond-hilt$ dagg] & two snuff-boxes set 9 diamonds & pe>ls4 ,?ree *airs1 cov]$ ) r$ brocade1 7 plac$ be=e him = u to sit on4 ,our two dragomans /ood on ei!r side ( u1 &1 at ea* ^w spok5 & answ]$ to ! pa%a1 mov$ _! heads & _! h&s f _! m\? to _! head4 ,! conv]sation 0 z foll[s4 ,we 7 ask$ :5ce we came1 & :5 we _h repli$1 ! fri5d%ip betwe5 ! ,porte & ,engl& 0 ref]r$ to1 & ! pa%a desir$ ! ,jew--our ho/--to treat u1 be+ ,engli%m51 ) all possible att5tion4 ,! m5tion ( au?ority l$ ! pa%a to tell u t he comm&$ 9 ,retimo & ,canea1 z well z 9 ,c&ia4 ,he next begg$ to "k if we br\ght any news2 :e!r !re _h be5 any fight+ 9 ! we/ ( ,europe2 & :e!r ,buonap>te _h put into execution 8 ?reat ( invad+ ,engl&4 ,to ?is we repli$ t he knew bett] ?an to try4 ,sweetmeats 7 !n h&$ r\nd1 & rose-wat] & o!r ess5ces spr9kl$ out ( n>r[-neck$ bottles on to our h&s & wip$ ) a beautifully embroid]$ napk94 ,aft] ab\t half an h\r we rose1 & ! pa%a hav+ said ',y are welcome3 ,i am glad ( y\r arrival1' we )drew4 ,our dep>ture 0 m>k$ by ! usual battle among ! *i\ks = bak%i%4 ,our treatm5t by ! pa%a _h _h a great effect ?r\gh\t ! city1 s t :5 we walk$ ?r\gh x we 7 ev]y:]e />$ at z =eign gr&ees1 j z ! ,p]sian ambassador 0 9 ,london4 ,z we pass$ p invit$ u into _! h\ses1 & a boy f a cafan ?rew d[n hot wat] be=e u1 a ?+ we und]/ood to be an altoge!r exceptional complim5t1 & :i* _h ( c\rse to be exceptionally rew>d$4 ,x 0 n[ ab\t two h\rs aft] midday1 & at t h\r x seems ! b& ( ! pa%a always plays to ! public4 ,we saw x sitt+ on ! top ( a h\se1 & /opp$ 9 a %op ov] ! way to he> x disc\rs+ :at appe>$ to me to be ! mo/ excruciat+ discords4 ,:5 x 0 ov] two *i\ks came =w>d1 cry+1 ',pray fir/ = ! gr& signor1 & !n = our pa%a4' ,we turn$ home1 & f\nd t ! ,em5e aga _h j be51 br++ ! complim5ts ( ! pa%a & a pres5t consi/+ ( six loaves ( sug>1 ?ree packets ( wax c&les1 tw5ty 9 a packet1 & ?ree pots ( honey4 ,we express$ our lively gratitude 9 all ! be/ ,greek we c\ld comm&4 ,9 ! ev5+ ! pa%a s5t u 8 b& to ent]ta9 u4 ,x consi/$ ( six p]=m]s1 mo/ly ,p]sians4 ,_! in/rum5ts 7 a dulcim]1 a viol9 ( ?ree /r+s held 9 ! "r h&1 ! b[ 9 ! left1 a ,p]sian pipe :i* _h "s really beautiful tones1 melan*oly1 s(t1 & s5tim5tal1 a guit> ) a v long h&le1 a panpipe ) tw5ty-"o pipes1 & a d\ble drum1 :i* 0 beat5 by ! man :o did ! s++4 ,i c\ld n obs]ve t !y _h guidance 9 _! play+1 except su* z ! e> gave !m2 b by d9t ( practice !y manag$ to keep _! in/rum5ts toge!r1 & ! result 01 ,i ?\ght1 r t5d] & pleas+4 ,z = our poor dragoman1 :o _h he>d no music s9ce he _h left ,con/ant9ople1 he 0 q ov]come & dissolv$ 9 te>s4 ,we paid a visit to ! ar*bi%op4 ,he seem$ to h z _m religi\s att5dants z ! pa%a _h secul> ones1 b he receiv$ u 9 a v unaffect$ way at 8 door & %[$ u ov] 8 *ur*4 ,8 answ]s to our que/ions %[$ him to h v little le>n+4 ,pausanias he _h nev] ev5 he>d (4 ,!nce we w5t on to pay a visit to ! capta9 ( 'f\rte51' ! *ief ( ! five regim5ts "h1 ! milit>y comm&ant 9 fact4 ,he has "u him f #be1jjj to #cj1jjj troops1 second only = insubord9ation & lack ( discipl9e to ^? at ,canea1 :]e !y are 9 *ronic op5 rebellion4 ,we f\nd him 9 8 room1 a fat vulg> man ) a good _m h&some arms ab\t him2 among !m a %ield :i* he told me is /ill 9 use4 ,ali1 our janiss>y1 %[$ me aft]w>ds h[ x is h&l$1 & any?+ m b>b>\s or inexp]t ,i nev] saw4 ,be+ su* r>e birds1 & receiv$ ) s mu* =m & cordiality by ! pa%a1 all ! notabilities 7 anxi\s to see u4 ,_m ,turki% agas & o!rs signifi$ _! wi% to visit u1 & our poor h\se1 alas6 alas6 0 full ( !m f morn+ to night4 ,"s 7 polite1 b mo/ ( !m m]ely curi\s to view u4 ,few que/ions 7 ask$1 & ^? few n 9 ! lea/ intellig5t4 ,9 fact1 we h be5 act+ ! "p ( embassy1 & we c\ld n d o!rwise4 ,receiv$ & />$ at & made mu* ( z we 71 we 7 oblig$ to try & d cr$it to our c\ntry4 ,besides !re 0 no?+ else to d2 we 7 practically "u surveillance4 ,no draw+s c\ld be made1 nor /udies ( ,m\nt ,ida or ! beautiful c\ntry4 ,i 0 always fum+ ov] ! wa/e ( "t1 b !re 0 no help = x4 ,z soon z ! novelty is worn (f1 ,turks & ,turki% mann]s become v un9t]e/+4 ,_! outw>d be>+ is v dignifi$1 b _! society is inexpressibly dull4 ,^? few :o _h travell$ ev] s little1 ev5 s f> z ,malta1 c\ld be di/+ui%$ at once4 ,a little glimpse ( ! _w _h suffic$ to remove _! ridicul\s ,turki% sup]bia & make !m respect _! neighb\rs4 ,,footnotes3 #cc ,*ancellor ( ! ,univ]sity ( ,corfu1 lat] ,"l ,guil=d4 #cd ,! ,hon4 ,fr$]ick ,s4 ,n4 ,d\glas1 au?or ( an essay entitl$ ,on ,po9ts ( ,resemblance betwe5 ,anci5t & ,mod]n ,greeks4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,exp$ition ,,to ,,! ,,labyr9?--,,delli ,,yani--,,! ,,int]ior--,,! ,,return ,,to ,,c&ia--,,life ,,!re--,,rejo9s ,,mr4 ,,nor?--,,bad ,,wea!r--,,exp$ition ,,to ,,egypt ,,ab&on$--,,scio--,,leaves ,,mr4 ,,nor? ,,to ,,g ,,to ,,smyrna--,,/orms--,,dang] ,,& ,,cold--,,arrives ,,at ,,smyrna4 ,on ! second day we />t$ on our exp$ition to visit ! ,labyr9?4 ,x 0 delightful to get away f a place :]e we 7 little bett] ?an ,/ate prison]s1 unable to g out at all unless 9 =m1 & !n oblig$ to /ay )9 ! walls = fe> ( be+ tak5 = spies if we w5t outside4 ,:5 we _h to pass ?r\gh !m to get out ,i saw t ! works are really v /rong1 ) a dit* :i* c be flood$1 & walls ?irty feet high4 ,at night we rea*$ ,s*all\s1 a small village1 & pass$ ! night 9 ! h\se ( an old ,greek4 ,bo? he & 8 wife 7 t]rifi$ at fir/1 z we 7 9 ,turki% dress1 & !y _h suff]$ t]ribly at ! h&s ( ! ,turks4 ,he told me aft]w>ds t 8 son1 aft] an abs5ce ( five ye>s1 _h come home1 & ! v fir/ night "s ,turks _h brok5 into ! h\se1 eat5 & drunk all !y c\ld lay h&s on1 & f9ally murd]$ ! poor y\?4 ,next day1 by ,hagiospiliotissa to ! conv5t ( ,s4 ,georgio4 ,our janiss>ies "h gave u a sample ( ! tyranny ( ,turks by prep>+ = u & !mselves a magnific5t repa/1 & gett+ drunk & insult+ ! papades4 ,?ree h\rs m ( hilly c\ntry1 comm&$ at int]vals by =tifi$ t[]s 7kopia71 br\ght u to ! foot ( ,ida4 ,9 anci5t times1 z well z n[1 t[ns ( importance 9 ^! p>ts 7 g5]ally f\nd by ! sea1 :i* 0 _! s\rce ( weal?2 b ! greatness ( ,gortyna1 ?\gh s f> inl&1 0 no d\bt due to ! magnific5t cornl&s ( ! ri* pla9 ( ,mess>a4 ,z ,i guess1 ! t[n /ood on a po9t$ hill ov]look+ x4 ,9 a /eep "p ( ! hill look+ t[>ds ! pla9 is an inconspicu\s hole 9 ! rock1 unm>k$ by any ar*itectural or /ructural feature4 ,?is is ! entrance to ! ,labyr9?4#ce ,we _h br\ght a quantity ( /r+ = a clue1 :i* we roll$ on two long /icks1 !n lit tor*es & w5t 94 ,at fir/ "o ent]s a ve/ibule out ( :i* lead sev]al op5+s4 ,two ( ! ?ree1 p]haps f\r1 d>k entrances are block$ up1 b "o rema9s op54 ,?is we foll[$1 & = ?ree mortal h\rs & m we grop$ ab\t among intricate passages & 9 spaci\s halls4 ,! w9d+s bewild]$ u at once1 & my compass be+ brok5 ,i 0 q ignorant z to :]e ,i 04 ,! cle>ly int5tional intricacy & app>5tly endless numb] ( gall]ies impress$ me ) a s5se ( horror & fasc9ation ,i _c describe4 ,at e t5 /eps "o 0 arre/$1 & _h to turn to "r or left1 sometimes to *oose "o ( ?ree or f\r roads4 ,:at if "o %\ld lose ! clue6 ,a poor madman _h insi/$ on accompany+ u all ! way f ,c&ia4 ,he us$ to call me ,/4 ,mi*ael2 ,d\glas1 ,/4 ,george2 & ,fo/]1 ,m9os4 ,we knew him z ,delli ,yani4 ,mu* aga9/ our w he p]si/$ 9 foll[+ u into ! cav]n1 & :5 we /opp$1 go+ (f ) a boy :o _h a lant]n4 ,conceive our horror :5 we f\nd sudd5ly t he _h disappe>$4 ,!re 9 t awful obscurity he might w&] ab\t till dea? reliev$ him4 ,we s5t back two m5 along ! clue ) tor*es to %\t = him1 & li/5$ anxi\sly1 b ! ,turks 7 q unconc]n$4 ,god1 !y said1 takes c>e ( madm54 ,we w5t on1 & sure en\gh aft] ab\t an h\r ,delli ,yani turn$ up ) ! boy1 :o 0 horribly fright5$4 ,we ent]$ _m *amb]s2 9 "s 7 ,v5etian names1 su* z ,sp9ola2 9 ano!r1 ',hawk9s #agid1' ',fiott' & o!r ,engli%m51 & _m names ( ,jews4 ,all ! culs de sac 7 infe/$ ) bats1 :i* 7 v annoy+1 & rose 9 ?\s&s :5 "o ( our p>ty fir$ a pi/ol4 ,9 "o place is a spr+4 ,"h & !re we saw "s li*51 & !re 7 occasional signs ( metallic sub/ances1 b n en\gh to support ! idea ( its hav+ be5 a m9e4 ,! /one is s&y1 /ratifi$1 & easily cut1 ! air dry1 & x appe>s to me t ! mo/ probable purpose ( ?is wond]ful excavation 0 z a secure /oreh\se = corn & valuables f ! attacks ( robb]s 9 ! days ( ,m9os4 ,! "w 0 pla9ly all done ) ! *isel4 ,! passage is always eight or t5 feet wide1 & f\r1 five1 six1 eight1 or t5 feet or m high4 ,9 _m places x _h fall5 94 ,! peasants tell all sorts ( /ories ab\t x4 ,!y told me t 9 "o place !re are re$s & a pool1 & t ! hole goes "r ?r\gh ! m\nta9 = ?ree miles2 t a s[ w5t 9 & came out sev5 ye>s aft] ) a litt] ( pigs2 & s on4 ,we slept at ,hagios ,deka1 left x at dawn & rode close to ! foot ( ,ida ?r\gh a v ri* c\ntry1 & 9 spite ( wait+ an h\r on ! road1 rea*$ ,c&ia 9 sev5 h\rs & a half4 ,x 0 evid5t t = purposes ( 8 own our janiss>y _h tak5 u some?+ l fifte5 h\rs out ( our way 9 com+1 & we _h a s]i\s dispute ) him 9 consequ5ce4 ,our hurry+ back 0 ( no use4 ,!re 0 no prospect ( our gett+ away4 ,c&ia4--,we h pl5ty ( "t on our h&s & c only employ x 9 ! wor/ possible way by ! assi/ance ( ! agas1 :o 9 ! "n ( dullness come & pass away _! ennui 9 our company4 ,to cr[n our bliss1 imag9e u sleep+1 fe$+1 & sitt+ all 9 "o room1 )\t ! possibility ( f9d+ a hole to hide our heads alone 94 ,:at 0 to me p]haps ! wor/ affliction ( all1 0 t to ent]ta9 our gue/s we _h to h music1 we>+ on unceas+ly 9 melan*oly monotony4 ,our situation1 9 fact1 0 gett+ to be v try+4 ,we _h a visit f our fri5d ,alilah ,agas1 :o begg$ u to s5d = music1 :i* 0 br\ght4 ,!n he wi%$ ! girls ( ! h\se 7,jewesses7 to come up & dance1 & _h we n be5 !re no d\bt he w\ld h compell$ !m to come4 ,z x 01 we disc\nt5anc$ x1 & he gave x up4 ,b he is a ,turk2 :i* is z good z to say utt]ly unpr9cipl$4 ,he told me himself t 9 rais+ recruits 9 ,anatolia = ! ,bey ( ,tunis1 he gave !m ?ree hundr$ pia/res apiece1 & set x d[n z six hundr$4 ,t di%one/y & be/iality g h& 9 h& ) ignorance is well se5 among ! ,turks4 ,moreov] !y lack ! civilis+ influ5ce ( wom5 9 _! society4 ,z soon z _! affect$ gravity is laid aside1 !y betray ! vile/ indec5cy ( feel+4 ,"o _c give in/ances1 b ! fact 0 pa9fully br\ght home to u4 ,at la/1 on ! #bd? ,decemb]1 a note came f ,mr4 ,nor? to say t he 0 at ,dia1 ! isl& across ! bay4 ,we repli$ begg+ him to /ay :]e he 01 = t if he came to ,c&ia he w\ld c]ta9ly be delay$4 ,at ! same "t we s5t to ! pa%a1 begg+ to h ! gate ( ! port op5$ 9 case ,mr4 ,nor? came4 ,! gate1 h[ev]1 0 nev] op5$4 ,happily he did n come1 & ! dragoman we _h s5t ) our message _h to sleep at a cafan outside ! gate1 & we l[]$ d9n] d[n to him ) a piece ( /r+ ov] ! walls4 ,= a wond] we 7 left alone = ?is ev5+1 & ,d\glas & ,i walk$ ab\t 9 our little ,greek3 p]ibol by moonlight1 & ?\ght ( home & happy ,*ri/mas p>ties !re & our dismal ,*ri/mas out "h4 ,among/ o!r subjects we talk$ ( ! div9e ,mrs4 ,siddons4 ,i tru/ y nev] omit my love & duty to h]1 & my reque/ t %e w n =get h] devot$ admir] dur+ 8 w&]+s4 ,y h nev] told me :e!r %e int5ds ev] to g on ! /age aga94#cf ,we w5t to pay a f>ewell visit to ! pa%a4 ,we f\nd him sitt+ 9 ! same /ate z be=e--9 full dress1 ) 8 diamond-hilt$ dagg] 9 8 girdle & sev]al magnific5tly ri* snuff-boxes on ! c\* beside him4 ,our conv]sation1 made up ( 8 que/ions & our answ]s1 la/$ half an h\r4 ,he said he _h se5 a draw+ ( ! ,labyr9? :i* ,i _h done1 & t x 0 v beautiful4 ,:at 0 ! age ( ! ,labyr9?8 ! "n ( ! k+ :o made x8 ! age ( ! _w8 c4 c4 ,our answ]s 7 tak5 d[n1 & our names4 ,f9ally he said our visit 0 agreeable to him1 & bade u cordially f>ewell4 ,!n walk+ d[n to ! port we took two boats = ourselves & our baggage1 & urg+ ! boatm5 to hurry1 9 our eag]ness n to miss a *ance ( sail+ t ev5+ if ! w9d all[$ x1 we rea*$ ,dia 9 two h\rs2 & !re 0 ,mr4 ,nor? v pleas$ to see u4 ,we n[ wat*$ ! w9d = a *ance ( gett+ out ( port1 b x %ift$ un/eadily f po9t to po9t1 & !re we rema9$ twelve days4 ,my occupations 7 to w&] ab\t ov] ! des]t isl&1 draw1 & read a great deal4 ,x 0 dull1 no d\bt1 b no?+ to ! active bor$om ( society 9 ,c&ia4 ,mr4 ,nor? _h sev]al excell5t cases ( books1 & ,i fell ^u ,gibbon1 & became entirely absorb$ 9 x4 ,at la/ ! w9d *ang$1 ! capta9 set all h&s to "w1 & we got out ( port1 b lay outside roll+ ! :ole day 9 a dead calm4 ,t[>ds ev5+ ! w9d came /rong f ! s\?1 & our capta91 always afraid to beat aga9/ x1 let x drive u ) x to ! nor?1 s t 9 ! night we pass$ ,nio1 & 9 ! morn+ f\nd ourselves among ! ,cyclades betwe5 ,p>o & ,siphanto1 into ! latt] ( :i* ! capta9 begg$ leave to put1 = he said ! wea!r look$ dirty4 ,! h>b\r ( ,siphanto1 :i* is call$ ,ph>o1 is r expos$ to ! s\?1 b is o!rwise good4 ,!re is ! usual *apel to ! ,panagia at ! entrance4 ,i _h caught su* a viol5t cold & fev] f sleep+ on deck ! night be=e t ,i 0 =c$ to g to b$ & /op !re = ! next two days1 s t ,i 0 prev5t$ f go+ a%ore & visit+ ! t[n ) ,nor? & ,fo/]4 ,x lies ab\t "o h\r (f on ! hill1 ! h\ses scatt]$ & look+ f a di/ance l ! brok5 rema9s ( a wall4 ,above is a ca/le1 app>5tly ( ! "t ( ! ,dukes ( ! ,ar*ipelago4 ,fo/] f\nd no?+ !re ( int]e/ except numb]s ( pretty girls1 "s ( :om 7 s press+ t he f\nd x difficult to get away alone4 ,! fact is ! m5 ( ! isl&1 be+ mo/ly sailors1 are away at sea1 & ! ladies1 be+ left 9 a majority1 make ! love :i* 9 o!r c\ntries is made to !m4 ,! co/ume1 a ,v5etian bodice & high bonnet1 ) v %ort petticoats1 is pretty & peculi>4 ,!re are no ,turks 9 ! isl&1 b "s ,turki% sailors ly+ 9 ! port took (f5ce at ! f9e clo!s ( ,nor? & ,d\glas1 say+ we 7 ,romaics1 & _h no "r to ridicule _! ,fai? by we>+ _! sacr$ dress4 ,!y ev5 ?reat5$ to give /rong] pro(s ( _! displeasure ?an by m]e words4 ,h[ev]1 next morn+ we 7 t[$ out ( port2 b be+ becalm$ all day outside1 ,mr4 ,nor?1 :o _h be5 /irr$ by ! remon/rances ( ! ,turks j m5tion$1 s5t 9 a boat1 & got a wig1 a pair ( %oes & bree*es = 8 own we>4 ,next day we 7 /ill ly+ becalm$ among ! ,cyclades1 b ! next a light breeze sprang up & c>ri$ u nor?w>ds ?r\gh ! passage t[>ds ,scio2 = ,mr4 ,nor?1 tir$ ( our delays1 hav+ lo/ all confid5ce 9 our capta91 & fright5$ at ! viol5ce ( ! w9ds1 _h f9i%$ by mak+ up 8 m9d to give up ! voyage to ,egypt2 & ?is caprice1 by :i* all our "t & imm5se exp5ses 7 wa/$1 necess>ily involv$ u all4 ,i mu/ say ,i 0 bitt]ly disappo9t$4 ,b luck 0 aga9/ u2 we c\ld n af=d to make ! j\rney alone1 & ,i _h to make ! be/ ( x4 ,x took u two days to get to ,scio4 ,a /eady w9d c>ri$ u g5tly on f ,mykoni1 & we seem$ to ent] a l>ge lake3 on "o side 7 ! m\nta9s ( ,anatolia2 on ! o!r1 ! left1 ! ,isle ( ,scio1 ri*ly cultivat$ & popul\s4 ,! :ole coa/ is cov]$ ) ! s-call$ ma/ic villages4 ,! ma/ic plant1 :i* is cultivat$ ma9ly on ! ea/ side--! side we 7 look+ at--( ! isl&1 is a high ev]gre54 ,x is ga!r$ mu* z res9 is f firs1 & ! annual crop is ab\t #f1jjj okes1 all ( :i* goes to ,con/ant9ople4 ,besides ma/ic1 ! isl& produces a va/ quantity ( fruit1 :i* also goes to ! capital4 ,! population is v l>ge1 almo/ entirely ,greek4 ,comp>$ to ! wret*$ ,cretans1 !y are v indep5d5t1 bo? m5 & wom54 ,! latt] pa9t extravagantly & we> an ugly co/ume2 b ,i mu/ say t on a fe/a1 su* z ! day aft] our arrival1 be+ ! #ac? ( ,janu>y & ,new ,ye>'s ,day 9 ,greece1 ! cr[ds ( !m dress$ 9 _! be/1 sitt+ on ei!r side ( ! /reet1 look$ z brilliant z banks ( fl[]s4 ,be=e leav+ we w5t to see ! *ief curiosity ( ! isl&--viz4 ,hom]'s ,s*ool4 ,x lies nor?w>ds1 along ! %ore1 ab\t an h\r's ride4 ,y arrive fir/ at a fall ( a small /ream into ! sea1 & a little above is a s+ul> hang+ rock1 ! top cut smoo? into a circul> floor ab\t #bj feet across4 ,9 ! c5tre an alt> is left1 on :i* are c>v$ 9 bas-relief1 on ?ree sides1 greyh\nds1 & on ! f\r?--! front--some?+ resembl+ ! head & brea/ ( a sph9x4 ,x looks s\?-ea/4 ,! situation is exce$+ly pretty1 b :y x %\ld be call$ ,hom]'s ,s*ool ,i _c conceive4 ,x 0 m probably an alt> to "s deity ^: %r9e 0 ne>--possibly ! deity ( ! beautiful spr+ bel[4 ,!re is 9 ,scio an agreeable polyglot society ( m]*ants ( all nations liv+ toge!r 9 h>mony4 ,"o may f9d an ,engli% family :]e ,engli% is ! only language n spok51 ! m5 p]haps speak+ a little badly1 & ! wom5 go+ to *ur* on ,sunday & n und]/&+ a ^w4 ,z ,mr4 ,nor? int5ds to rema9 "h & ,d\glas is />t+ homew>ds by way ( ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 ,fo/] & ,i took leave ( !m & sail$ = ,smyrna 9 ! ev5+4 ,we 7 c>ri$ g5tly along betwe5 ,scio & ! ma9l& till we rea*$ ! nor? end ( ! passage4 ,!re we fell 9 ) a /orm4 ,! w9d rose v /rong2 all ar\nd u grew fe>fully black1 & close to u fell a wat]sp\t4 ,h]eupon ! man at ! helm sunk t]rifi$ on 8 knees & made a l>ge cross 9 ! air ) 8 h&4 ,b our old pilot ord]$ him to look to ! helm1 = t he w\ld save u f ! dang]4 ,draw+ out a knife ) a black h&le 7a v important po9t1 ,i und]/&71 he ) x made also a cross 9 ! air1 & !n /uck x into ! deck & pron\nc$ ! words3 ,greek3 ,en ar* n ho logos1 c4 7',9 ! beg9n+ 0 ! ,^w4'7 ,:]eupon1 or v %ortly aft]1 ! wat]sp\t did disp]se & our pi\s ,greek took to himself all ! cr$it = hav+ sav$ u f a consid]able dang]4 ,our next fright 0 t we %\ld h>dly be able to cle> ,cape ,boronu1 ! po9t ( ! ,gulf ( ,smyrna1 b we did j manage to d t also4 ,! w9d *ang$ ab\t sev]al times1 till pres5tly x came d[n 9 a heavy gale f ! nor? & cont9u$ to increase1 till all 0 confusion & t]ror on bo>d4 ,& inde$ we 7 9 a v awkw>d plight2 = our %ip 0 a v bad sail] & we 7 on a lee %ore ) a w9d %e c\ld make no head aga9/4 ,besides1 ! ra9 & ! hail prev5t$ our see+ any?+4 ,! capta9 completely lo/ 8 head1 trembl$ ) fe>1 & began reproa*+ u = p]suad+ him to leave ,scio4 ,! only man :o kept 8 pres5ce ( m9d 0 ! pi\s old pilot4 ,he knew ( a port ne> by1 :]e we might possibly ga9 %elt]1 & by 8 great skill we succe$$ 9 arriv+ !re2 b x 0 neck or no?+4 ,! smalle/ mismanagem5t & we %\ld h be5 da%$ on ! rocks4 ,z x 01 we z ne> z possible ran on to !m1 ow+ to ! an*or be+ let d[n too late2 = ! %ip1 9 sw++ r\nd1 drove t[>ds !m ) appall+ viol5ce4 ,! capta9 fell on 8 knees1 & we all expect$ ! %ip to be da%$ to pieces4 ,%e actually swung up to )9 ?ree y>ds ( ! rocks1 & !re ! an*or held u4 ,we all drew a deep brea? & ?ank$ our />s4 ,x _h be5 a v ne> ?+4 ,= days ! w9d 0 /ill aga9/ u1 & pi]c+ly cold4 ,we /ay$ :]e we 74 ,i 0 ?ankful to h ,pope's ',hom]' ) me z a consolation4 ,our vessel is manag$ on ! sy/em 9 use at ,hydra1 ,syra1 ,spezzia1 c1 viz4 t half ! pr(its ( a voyage g to ! capta9 or proprietor1 & ! o!r half to ! crew4 ,sometimes ! memb]s ( ! crew h also %>es 9 ! v5ture1 & s are d\bly int]e/$2 sometimes ! capta9 is sole proprietor & sup]c>go4 ,! sy/em ensures a brisk co-op]ation1 z ev]yone is int]e/$ 9 ! success ( ! v5ture4 ,on ! #bj? we 7 /ill 9 ! same place1 ! w9d /ill bl[+ f ! ,n4,n4,e4--a ,greco ,levante1 z x is call$--& ! cold z bitt] z ev] x is 9 ,engl&4 ,sn[ fell & froze on ! deck4 ,! sea1 :i* 0 w>m] ?an ! air1 gave (f a mi/ :i* rose f x 9 a ?ick /eam4 ,"o ( ! sailors told me ( "s antiquities inl&1 & ,i tri$ to get to !m2 b fir/ ( all x 0 difficult to p]suade ! crew to turn out to put me a%ore4 ,!y compla9$ ( ! cold1 & w\ld n leave ! cab91 :]e !y 7 cr\*+ ov] ! fire4 ,once on %ore ,i f\nd ev]y?+ froz5--ice r ?ick--& :5 ,i got up to ! t[n ,i f\nd ! antiquities 7 ab\t ?ree h\rs (f1 & nobody c\ld give me any cle> acc\nt ( !m2 s ,i _h to give x up & return to ,pope's ',hom]' & ! cab94 ,we lay "h 9 all eight days--till ! #bbnd--%iv]+ 9 a fil?y cab9 among ! sailors1 utt]ly idle & half />v$4 ,at la/ on t day we 7 able to move to ! isl& ( ,v\rlac1 :]e we add$ two m days ( wret*$ness to our acc\nt2 & !n1 :5 we _h consum$ e p>ticle ( food except our salt fi%1 we f\nd a boat to c>ry u to ,smyrna4 ,! capta9 ( ! %ip w\ld n /ir4 ,! wea!r 0 /ill v r\gh1 & ! wret*$ c[>d wait$ ano!r eight days be=e he v5tur$ up4 ,no "o :o has n exp]i5c$ x1 c h an idea ( ! horrors ( a /orm 9 a ,greek brig4 ,! sailors1 out ( all discipl9e or ord]1 run ab\t all ov] ! %ip 9 ! mo/ frantic attitudes ( dismay1 ) _! bu%y heads ( hair fly+ 9 all directions1 & scream contr>y ord]s to ea* o!r4 ,!n ! bolde/1 ev5 if he be b ! cab9 boy1 takes ! comm&1 abuses ! capta9 & enc\rages ! re/ by 8 ord]s & example4 ,all is 9 confusion1 & if "o escapes %ipwreck x is m by good luck ?an by good managem5t4 ,,footnotes3 #ce ,rec5t excavations by ,messrs4 ,evans & ,hog>? ?r[ q a diff]5t light on ! true nature ( ! ,labyr9?4 #cf ,mrs4 ,siddons 7#agee-ahca7 =mally retir$ f ! /age 9 #ahab1 b cont9u$ to appe> occasionally until _m ye>s lat]4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,life ,,9 ,,smyrna--,,trip ,,to ,,trios--,,fo/] ,,falls ,,9 ,,love--,,cock]ell ,,/>ts ,,alone ,,= ,,t[n ,,( ,,sev5 ,,*ur*es--,,p]gamo--,,knifni*--,,sumeh-- ,,comm]ce ,,all ,,9 ,,! ,,h&s ,,( ,,greeks--,,k>asman ,,oglu--,,turcomans--,,s>dis--,,allah ,,%]i--,,crosses ,,f ,,valley ,,( ,,h]mus ,,to ,,t ,,( ,,! ,,me&]--,,hi]apolis --,,dang] ,,( ,,! ,,c\ntry--,,turns ,,we/w>ds4 ,aft] our exp]i5ces ( dang]1 discom=t1 & cold at sea1 ,smyrna seem$ to u a p>adise ( delightfulness4 ,! consul receiv$ u v hospitably1 & introduc$ u to v>i\s acqua9tance & to ! pleasures ( ! c>nival :i* 0 go+ on4 ,to y 9 ,engl& its div]sions w\ld h appe>$ vulg> & flat4 ,to u x 0 ! qu9tess5ce ( gaiety to meet ! masques1 bad z !y 71 ) _! =c$ hil>ity1 pass+ noisily f "o ,frank h\se to ano!r4 ,on ! la/ days ( ! c>nival !re 7 processions1 ?an :i* no?+ c\ld be m ridicul\s4 ,!re 0 a ,bac*us on a b>rel ) v>i\s sp\ts ab\t 8 body :i*1 :5 turn$1 di/ribut$ w9e to ! populace2 & ab\t ! c> x rode on1 pip$ & danc$ a numb] ( wret*es dress$ 9 nanke5 /a9$ to a fle%-col\r & hung ) fad$ leaves & fl[]s4 ,!re foll[$ on ano!r c> ! ',illness & ,dea? ( ,bac*us4' ,he 0 9 b$ surr\nd$ by a procession ( weep+ bac*anals1 prie/s1 doctors1 gli/]s1 & o!r rem$ial eng9es ( gigantic dim5sions4 ,9 sob] daylight su* a sight calls = its enjoym5t = an am\nt ( ligh!>t$ness ,engli%m5 d n at all mom5ts possess--b we1 "u ! circum/ances1 7 v mu* amus$4 ,we w\ld h />t$ at once on a t\r ( ! ,sev5 ,*ur*es if ! road _h be5 cle>4 ,= ! mom5t1 h[ev]1 x is block$ by ! pres5ce ( a pa%a1 :o ) f\r ?\s& troops is raid+ & mak+ w> on 8 own acc\nt4 ,8 army is /ation$ j across our pa?1 & ,i h be5 /rongly advis$ to wait until ! /orm is pass$ ov]4 ,i am really n sorry to h su* a good reason = rema9+ a little long] :]e ,i am4 ,! wea!r is /ill v sev]e & q unfit = travell+4 ,our *ief fri5d 9 ,smyrna is a ,mr4 ,?omas ,burgon1 m>ri$ to a ,smyrniote lady4 ,) him we />t$ on ,febru>y #ae to make a little trip ( f\r days to ,b\dron1 ! anci5t ,trios4 ,we w5t 9 an op5 boat up ! gulf to ,v\rlac1 t is to say1 to ! scala or port ( x1 :i* is on an isl& opposite to ! site ( ! anci5t ,clazom51 & walk$ f !re to ! t[n1 sp5t ! night !re1 & next day rode to ,b\dron4 ,"h 0 only a t9y cafan1 & no?+ b a b5* to sleep on4 ,! foll[+ days 7 pass$ entirely among ! ru9s ( temples & magnific5t build+s1 among :i* n[ only a few scatt]$ husb&m5 guide _! pl\ghs4 ,if 9 ,*&l]'s day--#agge--! ,temple ( ,bac*us 0 any?+ l :at he describes1 x mu/ h be5 a good deal knock$ ab\t s9ce1 = x is v diff]5t n[4 ,! c\ntry we pass$ ?r\gh g5]ally is exce$+ly f]tile1 &1 9 consequ5ce ( ! great dem& = produce 9 & ab\t ,smyrna1 v prosp]\s4 ,:5 ,i got back to ,smyrna ,i 0 =tunate en\gh to make ! acqua9tance ( ,capta9 ,f4 ,beau=t1 ,r4,n41#cg ( ,h4,m4 frigate ,fr$]ik/e54 ,he is an accompli%$ antiqu>ian1 a ta/e he has be5 able to cultivate 9 ^! c\ntries1 z he has be5 employ$ = "s "t 9 *>t+ ! coa/s h]eab\ts4 ,i h suff]$ n a little f ! *angeabl5ess ( my companions3 ,mr4 ,nor? fir/1 9 giv+ up ! :ole voyage to ,egypt :5 we 7 halfway !re1 because ( ! wea!r2 !n ,d\glas1 9 sudd5ly at ,scio tak+ x into 8 head to g home to ,engl& because he 0 disappo9t$ ( ! voyage to ,egypt2 & n[1 f9ally1 ,fo/] has fall5 9 love & refuses to make ) me ! t\r ( ! ,sev5 ,*ur*es1 z he promis$1 because he _c te> himself away f 8 lady love4 ,! difficulty m5tion$ be=e ab\t ! raid+ pa%a has be5 settl$4 ,! moslem ( ?is place h conciliat$ him ) a gift ( #bj1jjj pia/res1 & he is to retire to 8 own pa%alik ( ,kauna4 ,s ,i only await my horses & janiss>y to set (f alone4 ,m>* #a/4--,i />t$ 9 a boat = ! scala ( ,m5im51 :]e ! horses 7 wait+ = me to take me to ,m5im5 on ! ,h]mus4 ,z my janiss>y got drunk ov]night1 ,i _h to wait next morn+ till sev5 be=e ,i c\ld />t1 & 9 consequ5ce did n get s f> z ,i int5d$1 & _h to sleep 9 a small cafan1 on ! site1 z ,i take x1 ( ! anci5t ,cum4 ,we slept six 9 a small space1 ! divan1 ) a l>ge fire1 :ile ! ?ree or f\r horses 7 9 ! space beyond4 ,greeks /eal :5 !y get a *ance1 b ,turks z a rule may be tru/$2 & ?\gh ,dimitri & ,i 7 s tir$ t we left my arms1 silv] cup & spoons1 c1 ly+ ab\t all night1 nobody t\*$ !m4 ,9 ! morn+ ,i walk$ ov] ! site ( ,cum4 ,!re 7 l>ge rema9s ( ! wall n9e or t5 feet ?ick1 & ,i f\nd ! torso ( a :ite m>ble /atue five feet six in*es long1 ( a v beautiful /yle4 ,! head1 arms1 & legs _h be5 brok5 (f by ! aga ( ! place because he ?\ght he %\ld f9d gold inside4 ,x is n f> f "h to ,p]gamo1 b x took u unusually long because ! wat] 0 out 9 all ! l[ gr\nd1 & "o _h to keep to ! causeways4 ,^! are made mo/ly ( /ones tak5 f ru9$ cities1 9 :i* "o saw bits ( ar*itraves1 friezes1 & s on4 ,gett+ (f ! causeway 9 "o place1 ,i 0 v ne>ly bogg$4 ,at ,p]gamo ,i lodg$ 9 ! khan4 ,! fir/ ?+ ,i did 0 to walk up to ! ca/le4 ,x is 9 ?ree /ages1 ) rema9s ( =tification ( all ages1 f ! e>lie/ to ! ,g5oese1 b ! ,roman are ! mo/ important4 ,on ! second /age are two t[]s & a great wall built ( ,roman-,greek fragm5ts ( :ite m>ble4 ,above are two l>g] t[]s ) a gate & /rong wall full ( fragm5ts4 ,on ! s\?-we/ side a gap or dell 9 ! hill is fill$ up ) ar*es fifty feet high by tw5ty wide1 & above !m a range ( small] ones1 ! :ole =m+ a solid f\ndation = an imm5se temple#ch ( :ite m>ble 9 ! be/ ,roman-,greek /yle4 ,! :ole "w is prodigi\s & v noble4 ,!re are /ill consid]able rema9s ( ! temple1 b !y are rapidly disappe>+1 = ! ,turks cut !m up into tomb/ones4 ,! anci5t t[n seems to h be5 built on ! hill4 ,ev]y:]e on ! sides ( x are imm5se f\ndations4 ,! amphi!atre is an extraord9>y build+4 ,x /&s 9 a n>r[ valley a/ride ( a riv]4 ,! two sides ( ! valley make ! two ends ( ! oval1 & ! middle /&s ^u ar*es "u :i* ! riv] runs4 ,i 0 deta9$ at ,p]gamo two days by ! wea!r4 ,x p\r$ all ! fir/ day1 & ! second ! wat] 0 out & ! riv] too high = me to get across4 ,i w5t to ! ba?s to see ! vase = :i* ,cann+ (f]$ #aj1jjj pia/res1 & b\ght !re a beautiful /one = #dj pia/res1 & "s bronze co9s4 ,i took a guide to %[ me ! way across ! riv]1 = ! wat] 0 out all ov] ! valley1 & ev5 on ! causeway x 0 ov] our horses' knees1 & to get (f x w\ld h be5 dang]\s4 ,on ! way we met ! son ( a neighb\r+ aga ) a p>ty ( fifty arm$ foll[]s4 ,we took !m at a di/ance = a company ( d]rys1 or m\nta9 robb]s4 ,b :5 !y came ne> u we saw !y 7 mu* too sm>t4 ,! "y man 0 m]ely go+ to ! ,aga ( ,p]gamo ) ! complim5ts ( 8 fa!r on ! recov]y ( 8 heal?4 ,see+ me & my suite dress$ la ,turque1 he s5t 9 pass+ a man ) 8 complim5ts to me to wi% me a happy j\rney4 ,! pleasant ta/e left by ?is graceful c\rtesy 0 wip$ out by ! next incid5t1 :i* 0 f> f agreeable4 ,we came ^u a camel-driv] ^: camels _h got bogg$ 9 ! swamp & c\ld n be made to move backw>ds or =w>ds4 ,impati5ce at 8 tr\ble _h put ! man s beside himself t z we pass$ on he insult$ our p>ty4 ,i did n und]/& a ^w he said1 or ! cause ( (f5ce1 b our janiss>y 0 9 a mom5t z furi\s z he4 ,bo? drew _! pi/ols1 & ,i _h ! greate/ difficulty 9 conta9+ my man4 ,"o or o!r w\ld h be5 kill$ = no reason t ,i c\ld compreh5d4 ,i manag$ to drag my man away1 & we w5t on to ,knifni*2 aft] :i* our horses1 we>i$ ) _! wett+ & plodd+ ?r\gh ! heavy mire1 c\ld g no fur!r1 & we halt$ = ! night4 ,i _h a lett] to a resid5t ,arm5ian m]*ant :o receiv$ me ) g5u9e hospitality2 he introduc$ me to a relation ( 81 & ! two vi$ 9 _! hone/ gallantry4 ,ea* insi/$ on ent]ta9+ me4 ,f9ally my fri5d gave a p>ty 9 my hon\r2 & 9 ! ev5+1 ! ,turki% "p ( ! company hav+ dep>t$1 ! wom51 contr>y to ! usual ,arm5ian cu/om1 appe>$4 ,! music :i* _h be5 s5t = began to play ! ,greek circle1 ! ,romaika1 & we all danc$ x toge!r4 ,at ! end ,i did :at ,i _h und]/ood be=e 0 ! height ( gallantry 9 ^! c\ntries3 on pass+ ! musicians1 danc+ ) my fair "o1 ,i clapp$ a doll> into ! h& ( ! musician to express my enjoym5t4 ,bett] /ill1 is ) a bit ( wax to /ick y\r sequ9 on 8 =ehead1 b ,i _h no wax ev5 if ,i _h wi%$ to try x4 ,aft] eat+ & danc+ to our he>t's cont5t1 b$s 7 spread1 & 9 c\rtesy ! l&lord rema9$ 9 ! room till ,i 0 undress$4 ,no?+1 9 fact1 c\ld be m cordial ?an _! treatm5t ( me4 ,! trade ( ,knifni* is 9 raw cotton4 ,next day ,i got z f> z ,sumeh4 ,! roads 7 s heavy t our baggage horse fell & ,i ?\ght we %\ld nev] get him up aga94 ,?is comes ( hav+ />t$ too e>ly 9 ! ye>4 ,close to ,sumeh1 9 a dell1 is ! picturesque village ( ,t>cala1 ) an anci5t ca/le above x4 ,a fri5d1 ,con/ant9e ,/ephano1 took me to call on a ,greek family !re4 ,i _c g into details2 suffice x to say ,i f\nd ! p s really b>b>\s t ,i c\ld n be> x & came out4 ,inde$1 9 simple savag]y x w\ld be impossible to surpass ! natives ( ?is c\ntry4 ,9 ! khan ,i f\nd a numb] ( ,romaic ,greeks4 ,x 0 ! la/ day ( c>nival & !y 7 s++ ,moriote songs1 mak+ a noise & behav+ !mselves g5]ally 9 a way !y w\ld n v5ture to d 9 ,greece prop]4 ,! fact is1 t ,k>asman ,oglu1 :o gov]ns all ?is "p ( ! c\ntry f ,p]gamo nor? to ,samos 9 ! s\? & inl& to ,s>t & ,magnesia1 is an extraord9>ily good adm9i/rator = a ,turk4 ,he sees t ! ,greeks =m ! mo/ indu/ri\s & ! ri*e/ "p ( ! population1 & t x is to 8 int]e/ to protect !m4 ,trade is fl\ri%+1 & ,greeks f o!r p>ts1 su* z ^? f ! ,morea :o 7 s noisy 9 ! khan1 come & settle "u him4 ,i am b\nd to say t "h1 & ev]y:]e else :]e !y come into p[]1 !y are insol5t & insuff]ably va94 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! ,turks h]eab\ts are a mild & hospitable b app>5tly a dull race4 ,!y are ev5 m sev]ely tax$ ?an ! ,greeks4 ,= in/ance1 x 0 !y :o _h to pay to buy (f ! raid+ pa%a ,i spoke (1 & 9 places remote f ! seat ( gov]nm5t !y suff] great oppression f ! h&s ( _! petty gov]nors4 ,inde$ at times !y h op5ly express$ to me _! desire t ! ,fr5* or ! ,engli% w\ld take possession ( _! empire1 = t !y w\ld be bett] (f 9 ! h&s ( anybody ?an 9 ^? ( _! own c\ntrym54 ,& no?+ w\ld be easi] ?an to take possession ( x4 ,9 all my t\r ,i saw only "o =tress1 & t a small "o1 q incapable ( resi/+ a regul> =ce4 ,moreov]1 x is n a cramp$ c\ntry l ! ,morea1 b p]fectly op52 & aft] y leave ! coa/1 :i* is really popul\s & well cultivat$1 x is a des]t4 ,9 n9e h\rs' j\rney f ,akhiss> to ,s>t1 ,i came across only "o village & a few ,turcomans4 ,^! ,turcomans are a nomadic p4 ,!y live 9 t5ts1 ( :i* y f9d p]haps tw5ty toge!r1 ) _! h]ds ( cattle1 horses1 & camels ar\nd !m1 & w&] ab\t foll[+ ! pa/ure4 ,!y consid] !mselves j z mu* "p ( ! inhabitants z ! settl$ population1 & are well arm$ & dress$4 ,z a rule1 9 ^! p>ts at any rate1 !y are in(f5sive1 b fur!r up ! c\ntry ,i am told !y are organis$ into l>g] b&s1 call !mselves d]vi%es or desp]adoes1 & if travell]s d n keep toge!r 9 l>ge c>avans1 attack1 rob1 & ev5 sell !m = slaves4 ,i 0 ev5 giv5 ! sort ( price ,i might be expect$ to fet* 9 t capacity1 viz4 f t5 to tw5ty p\nds4 ,f ,sumeh to ,k]ikahat*1 & !nce ov] a l[ wat]%$ into ! valley ( ! ,h]mus & to ,akhiss>1 :]e !re is no?+ wor? see+4 ,i sp5t ! ev5+ ) ,greek & ,arm5ian m]*ants1 v r\gh company4 ,w5t on t[>ds ,s>dis4 ,at a village on a small bran* ( ! ,h]mus we came ^u a l>ge p>ty ( ,turcoman wom51 :o _h come d[n f ! m\nta9s to wa%4 ,!y made no attempt to avoid obs]vation z ! ,turki% wom5 d1 & "s ( !m 7 exce$+ly beautiful4 ,!y _h ) !m ?ree m5 z gu>d1 :o %[$ no jeal\sy ( u & v civilly told u our way4 ,9 ! aft]noon we arriv$ at ! ,h]mus1 & ! view ( ! valley ,i %all nev] =get4 ,x 0 a glori\s c\ntry up ! riv]1 b ! cultivation & ! ri* population 7 beh9d u1 & 9 front 0 a cont9u$ des]t4 ,a f]ry-boat runn+ on a rope set u ov] ! riv]1 & an h\r lat] we rea*$ ,a*met ,li1 a mis]able village ( mud cottages1 & prep>$ to pass ! night 9 ! wret*$ cafan4 ,happily1 :5 x got ab\t t we 7 n ,turks1 ! wid[ ( a ,greek papa gladly receiv$ u & lodg$ me well4 ,! raid+ pa%a a=esaid _h pass$ ?r\gh & burn$ ! aga's h\se1 b done no o!r h>m beyond eat+ up all ! f[ls 9 ! place2 !re 0 n "o to be got = love or money = my supp]4 ,next day we got e>ly to ,s>t4 ,! neighb\rhood af=ds ! mo/ lovely views imag9able ( di/ant hills4 ,! site itself is peculi>4 ,! hills are :olly ( fat e>?1 no rock se5 at all1 & ! wea!r has worn !m into ! mo/ fanta/ic =ms4 ,amid/ !m ! ca/le1 /&+ at ! foot ( ,b\sdagh1 is a/oni%+ly picturesque4 ,b ! :ole is a v picture ( desolation4 ,:]e ! anci5t ,s>dis /ood are n[ t5 or twelve mis]able huts4 ,f> (f across ! glori\s l&scape ,i c\ld di/+ui% "o solit>y wret*$ village1 & "h & !re a ,turcoman's t5t4 ,a v]itable des]t1 :]e ! soil is ri* z anyone c\ld imag9e4 ,besides ! f9e situation !re is only "o o!r ?+ to notice1 viz4 ! ,ionic temple4 ,i sp5t my fir/ day 9 exam9+ x & mak+ a draw+ ( x4 ,only ?ree ( ! five columns /ill /&+ 9 ,*&l]'s "t rema9 erect2 ! o!r two 7 bl[n up ?ree ye>s ago by a ,greek :o ?\ght he might f9d gold 9 !m4 ,! :ole temple is buri$ _m feet deep4 ,z ,i wi%$ v mu* to see ! base ( ! column1 ,i got a ,cretan--:om ,i f\nd "h pr(ess$ly buy+ tobacco1 b ,i suspect a fugitive f 8 home = "s murd]--to dig = me4 ,i _h to give x up aft] we _h got d[n t5 feet )\t rea*+ x4 ,"o ought to be "h = a mon?1 & !n1 z ! e>? is v s(t1 "o c\ld d ! ?+ ?or\ghly4 ,nobody w\ld int]f]e4 ,i sp5t ! ev5+ ) ! ,turcomans 9 a t5t1 sitt+ cross-legg$ on a mat1 smok+4 ,!y _h a bold free mann] & a savage air1 b !y 7 n uncivil to me4 ,my janiss>y got into a dispute ) "o because he _h tak5 8 place4 ,he ord]$ him out1 & ! man w\ld n g4 ,z he & all 8 companions 7 well arm$1 a fight w\ld n h be5 pleasant1 & :5 ! dispute quiet$ d[n ,i 0 n sorry4 ,! ru9s ( ! comp>atively mod]n t[n1 especially ^? ( a l>ge *ur*1 seem to consi/ entirely ( fragm5ts ( anci5t temples1 "s ( ! bits be+ v f9e4 ,! ca/le has no rema9s ( e>li] date ?an t ( ! ,l[] ,empire4 ,! m anci5t =tress may h be5 swept away by ! torr5ts1 :i* te> ! soil into su* /range =ms1 & ! :ole site be *ang$4 ,at any rate ,i c\ld n f9d a scrap ( anci5t wall any:]e1 & ! lat] ones are rapidly be+ und]m9$1 & tott] on ! edge ( ! precipice4 ,next day we rode ea/w>ds along ! side ( ,b\sdagh 7,tmolus74 ,9 five h\rs we pass$ only two small villages & a numb] ( ,turcoman t5ts1 b we met _m c>avans1 ! camels :imsically deck$ ) fea!rs & %ells1 & ! l>ge/ male ) fe/oons ( bells z well4 ,i 0 told t ! ,turks 7 v fond ( witness+ camel-fights1 & t ^? :i* ,i saw mo/ h&somely dress$ out 7 ! *ampions at t sport4 ,! h\ses h]eab\ts are all built ( mud1 & s full ( mice t ,i c\ld n sleep 9 ! night & 0 9 consequ5ce late 9 />t+4 ,we cont9u$ along ! great valley & came by midday to ,allah ,%]i 7,philadelphia71 ! mo/ =lorn city ev] ,i saw4 ,! squalid mud h\ses cov] sev]al small hills & conta9 a population ( ab\t a ?\s& families1 mo/ly ,turks4 ,!re are tw5ty-f\r *ur*es1 ( :i* only five are 9 use1 :ile ! re/ are kept sacr$ by occasional s]vices4 ,9 ! %ape ( antiquities !re is no?+ to be se54 ,! *ief curiosity is ! w>m m9]al spr+1 :i* smells l addl$ eggs & has a ta/e ( ink4 ,! p ab\t use x a good deal = scorbutic compla9ts4 ,"s travell]s h spok5 ( hav+ be5 %[n a wall ( bones "h4 ,i saw no?+ ( ! sort4 ,two h\rs' travell+ next day br\ght u at la/ to ! end ( ! imm5se pla9 ( ! ,h]mus1 & we began to get among ! m\nta9s1 go+ up ! ea/ side ( a /eep romantic dell1 ! we/ side ( :i* 0 wond]fully rugg$ & wild4 ,beyond 7 m\nta9s cov]$ ) sn[3 b5ea? u an immeasurable giddy dep?4 ,except a few %eep1 we saw no liv+ ?+ = h\rs toge!r4 ,once ,i he>d "s wild duck by ! torr5t bel[4 ,at ! end ( six h\rs we rea*$ ,d]w5t1 a village (1 say1 two hundr$ h\ses4 ,a wret*$ lodg+ &1 z !re 0 no f[l to be got--& t is :at "o dep5ds entirely ^u--no supp]2 & ,i _h to be cont5t ) smoke1 c(fee1 & ,hom]4 ,9 ! ev5+ came1 z usual1 a numb] ( ,turks to see ! /rang]4 ,!y ent]1 !y salute ) a ',salaam aleikum1' & sit d[n p]haps = h\rs4 ,_! conv]sation g5]ally turns ^u ! /rang]1 ) conjectures ^u 8 object 9 com+4 ,lat] at night came 9 ! son ( our ho/4 ,he _h be5 se>*+ = a /ray$ ox1 & 0 afraid t ! wolves _h got x4 ,he exam9$ my fire>ms = a long :ile1 & admir$ !m v mu*4 ,! ,turks ( ?is "p ( ! c\ntry are l>ge1 h&some1 v sl[ 9 _! spee*1 & /upid & ignorant4 ,/>t+ next morn+1 we began by foll[+ ! c\rse ( a riv] till we got on to a high level pla9 surr\nd$ by =mless hills--an ugly c\ntry4 ,we met a few ,turcomans1 & once ,i saw "s pl\gh+4 ,at ! end ( sev5 h\rs' rid+ we rea*$ ! edge ( ! valley ( ! ,me&] & look$ ov] a glori\s view2 !n d[nw>ds ?r\gh ,bulladan1 a village ( ab\t five hundr$ h\ses & a numb] ( mosques1 to a village ! "n ( :i* ,i nev] le>nt1 :]e we slept4 ,z "o expects no?+ ( "o's ho/ b %elt]1 x 0 an unusual hospitality 9 ours to give u "s ( 8 bread4 ,x 0 a /range comp\nd1 su* z ,i _h nev] se5 be=e4 ,to make x1 ! d\gh is mix$ v ?9 & p\r$ on a heat$ copp]4 ,! result looks l rags ( co>se clo? & ta/es l bad crumpets4 ,we slept 9 a b>n ) ! horses4 ,next day we desc5d$ into ! pla9 ( ! ,me&] & cross$ ! riv] by a bridge ( f\r or five ar*es1 ! p>apet ( :i* is made ( ! /eps ( a !atre4 ,j !re 0 a man adm9i/]+ a s+ul> rem$y to a mule :i* _h fall5 sick 9 ! road4 ,he _h ti$ all f\r legs toge!r & ?r[n him d[n4 ,!n he _h cut ! ?roat ( a %eep1 & hold+ ! mule's m\? op51 let ! %eep's blood fl[ into x4 ,i 0 assur$ x 0 an excell5t m$ic9e4 ,f ! bridge onw>ds we cross$ a flat till we rea*$ ! ridge1 at ! foot ( :i* is ,hi]apolis4 ,x _h co/ me c]ta9ly a :ole day m ?an 0 necess>y to get "h1 because ,tab\k ,kalise 7! ca/le ( ! cemet]y71 its prop] "n1 0 spelt 9 ,*&l]1 ,pamb\k 7cotton72 & :5 ,i inquir$ = ,pamb\k ,kalise no "o c\ld make out :at ,i meant1 s t practically ,i lo/ my way until ,i got into ! valley ( ! ,me&]4 ,once !re1 ,hi]apolis is a conspicu\s object f a great di/ance on acc\nt ( ! rem>kable :it5ess ( ! rock on :i* x /&s4 ,?is is due to a petrification deposit$ by ! riv]1 :i* rises1 a full /ream1 9 ! city & fl[s ov] ! front ( ! cliff4 ,x makes a f9e cascade1 & ! spray ( x1 c>ri$ by ! w9d1 spreads a :ite coat+ l ice ov] ev]y?+ x rea*es4 ,z x gradually =ms1 x takes r\nd$ %apes ov]lapp+ ea* o!r1 some?+ l conv5tional cl\ds4 ,! ru9s ( ! anci5t city /& on ! top above ! cliff & half buri$ 9 a sea ( ?is s+ul> deposit4 ,! va/ colonnades pres5t ! mo/ extraord9>y appe>ance4 ,! mo/ magnific5t are p]haps ! ru9s ( ! gymnasium1 & ! be/ pres]v$ ! !atre1 :i* is all p]fect except ! prosc5ium2 b p]haps :at a/oni%$ me mo/ 0 to f9d1 on go+ out ( "o ( ! gates1 a numb] ( tombs ( v>i\s =ms & sizes z complete z on ! day !y 7 built1 two ?\s& ye>s ago4 ,! /yle ( !m is v l>ge & magnific5t4 ,_m ( ! s>cophagi are eight or n9e feet long by ?ree or f\r wide1 & ! re/ 9 proportion4 ,all be> inscriptions1 b ! r\gh quality ( ! /one prev5t$ my read+ !m4 ,"u ! s>cophagus1 & =m+ "p ( ! monum5t1 is g5]ally a /one b5* = ! fri5ds ( ! deceas$ to sit ^u & m$itate4 ,!re are "s beautiful bas-reliefs 9 high pres]vation ly+ expos$ 9 ! !atre4 ,altoge!r1 = pres]vation !re c be no?+ b ,pompeii to comp>e to ?is place4 ,i did n =get to inquire = ! rem>kable cave 9 :i* no animal c live1 :i* ,*&l] tri$ to f9d4 ,my guide l$ me to "o ne> ! spr+ & told me t on c]ta9 days birds fly+ ov] x fall d[n1 ov]come by ! fumes4 ,!re1 sure en\gh1 ,i did f9d f\r small birds ) ! bones ( v>i\s o!r animals4 ,if travell]s _h be5 frequ5t "h ,i c\ld h suppos$ t someone _h put ! birds !re = sightse]s to wond] at2 b accord+ to ! old aga ,i am ! fir/ travell] "h s9ce ,*&l]'s "t 9 #agfe1 & x seem$ impossible t x %\ld h be5 done on su* %ort notice m]ely to make a fool ( me4 ,:5 ev5+ came on1 ,i walk$ d[n aga9 to ,yemk5i :]e ! janiss>y & horses 74 ,! aga _h prep>$ a meal = me1 & ate x ) me1 sometimes te>+ bits ( meat (f & ?r[+ !m into my plate4 ,z usual1 all ! ,turks came 91 9 ! ev5+1 to />e4 ,all next day x blew & p\r$1 b ,i w5t up to ! ru9s att5d$ by ! aga's man1 & work$ h>d all day long4 ,i _h b\ght a live f[l to try ,/rabo's exp]im5t ( putt+ him into ! cave2 b :e!r x 0 n really ! "r cave1 or :e!r ! viol5t w9d & ra9 prev5t$ ! gas hav+ effect1 at any rate ! f[l 0 none ! worse aft] be+ expos$ to x = half an h\r1 & we ate him ) a good appetite 9 ! ev5+4 ,ov] 8 bones ! aga grew talkative1 & told me ( ! real cave :i* 0 9 ! m\nta91 "o h\r di/ant4 ,he said t inside ! cave is a bridge1 & beyond t a *amb] 9 :i* is a treasure gu>d$ by a black man4 ,he add$ t he :o %\ld get ! bett] ( t black man _h ne$ h /udi$ & le>nt mu*4 ,_m & _m an adv5tur]1 aft] ! treasure1 _h di$ horribly 9 ! cav]n4 ,& s on1 ) all ! cock-&-bull /ories univ]sal among ! ,turks4 ,b :5 ,i ask$ him to give me a guide to take me to ! cave1 he put e sort ( difficulty into ! way4 ,i %\ld ne$ ladd]s1 & !re 7 none--horses1 & !re 7 none4 ,9 %ort x 0 q cle> he meant to prev5t my go+1 s ,i gave x up4 ,i did s ! m will+ly because ,i already felt exce$+ly uncom=table4 ,! p ar\nd me 7 utt] savages1 & ! c\ntry p]fectly lawless4 ,s\? ( ! riv]1 9 ! direction ( ,d5isli or ,laodicea1 x 0 worse2 & besides brig&s1 :i* 7 said to ab\nd betwe5 ,d5isli & ,aid9 & w\ld oblige my tak+ an exp5sive escort1 ! agas !mselves _h a v bad reputation = extortion4 ,moreov]1 my janiss>y 0 anxi\s1 because 9 com+ to ,hi]apolis we 7 already outside ! limits to :i* my travell+ firman ref]r$1 & he wi%$ to get back )9 !m4 ,s1 all ?+s consid]$1 ,i decid$ to give up see+ ,laodicea 7,i c\ld make out ! situation ( x at a v great di/ance7 & pass$ on to avoid ! des]t c\ntry & dang]\s neighb\rhood4 ,,footnotes3 #cg ,lat] ,sir ,francis ,beau=t1 *ief hydrograph] to ! ,navy4 #ch ,s9ce excavat$ at ! co/ ( ! ,prussian ,gov]nm5t4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,back ,,into ,,civilisation--,,nasli ,,baz>--,,nysa--,,guzul--,,hiss> 7,,magnesia7--,,! ,,plague--,,aisaluck 7,,ephesus7--,,scala ,,nuova--,a ,,/orm--,,samos--,,pri5e--,,canna-- ,,g]onta--,,knidos--,,rhodes--,,mr4 ,,nor? ,,aga9--,,sails ,,= ,,pat>a--,,ca/el ,,rosso--,,cacava--,,myra--,,! ,,%r9e ,,( ,,/4 ,,nicolas--,,tr\bles ,,) ,,natives--,a ,,wat] ,,snake--,,f9ica--,,c>osi--,,olympus--,, volcanic ,,fire--,,phaselis--,,falls ,,9 ,,) ,,! ,,fr$]ik/e54 ,two days' rid+ d[n ! riv] br\ght u to ,nasli ,baz>1 :i* is )9 ! gov]nm5t ( ,k>asman ,oglu1 & ! fact 0 at once p]ceptible4 ,greeks 7 num]\s & impud5t1 trade fl\ri%+1 & ! baza> full ( all k9ds ( m]*ants4 ,x is ! great m>t = ! int]ior4 ,i _h to pass ! night 9 a wret*$ khan4 ,9 ! *amb] adjo9+ m9e 0 a slave m]*ant ) two "y negresses1 "o ( :om _h a *ild = sale1 & also a f9e "y negro4 ,i foll[$ ! valley ( ! ,me&] to ,sultan ,hiss>4 ,on ! way ,i w5t up a /eep asc5t to see ! ru9s ( ,nysa4 ,!y /& on an elevat$ pla9 ov] ! riv]1 & comm& a gr& view & good air above ! mal>i\s b$ ( ! ,me&] & its bord]+ m>%es4 ,!re is fir/ ( all a l>ge agora1 ) traces ( temples 9 or ar\nd x4 ,fur!r on1 9 ! side ( ! m\nta91 is a v consid]able !atre1 ) ! rema9s ( ! prosc5ium & ap>tm5ts = actors c4 on all sides4 ,seat$ 9 ! !atre "o _h a glori\s view ( ! s5ate h\se & prison1 ) ! amphi!atre beyond1 & ! bridge :i* spans a gully 9 "o magnific5t ar*4 ,all ^! build+s are 9 a gr&iose /yle1 v impressive1 & made all ! m s by _! absolute solitude4 ,9 ,nysa 0 b "o man1 a %eph]d1 :o _h tak5 up 8 abode 9 "o ( ! ar*es ( ! !atre4 ,aft] a /ay !re ( two h\rs we w5t on d[n ! valley4 ,we _h n[ q left ! des]t beh9d u & come into civilisation1 cultivation1 & ord]ly gov]nm5t4 ,e two or ?ree miles we pass$ a cafan & a gu>d1 ) an air ( ord] & discipl9e4 ,my janiss>y 0 full ( admiration = ,k>asman ,oglu1 & relat$ to me /ories illu/rat+ 8 "*4 ,i recollect two4 ,a ,greek m]*ant go+ to ,akhiss> 0 robb$ by f\r ,turks ( #hjj sequ9s4 ,! poor man made 8 compla9t to ,k>asman ,oglu1 :o at once gave him ! money1 z recognis+ 8 responsibility = ord]1 & t ! m]*ant might n /& out ( 8 money :ile x 0 be+ recov]$4 ,!n he despat*$ 8 police1 :o 9 a few days br\ght 9 ! f\r ,turks1 & !y 7 !n & !re hang$4 ,! ,turks res5t 8 protection ( ! ,greeks & ,*ri/ians1 & call x p>tiality4 ,he>+ ( ?is1 ,k>asman call$ toge!r ! *ief ,turks ( ,magnesia1 & :5 he _h giv5 !m c(fee1 he told !m t he _h summon$ !m z he wi%$ to raise a sum ( #cj1jjj pia/res = gov]nm5t purposes1 & !y %\ld be repaid 9 a few mon?s ) ! int]e/ due4 ,! proposition be+ receiv$ ) dead sil5ce1 he s5t = f\r poor ,greek primates ( "s small villages 9 ! neighb\rhood1 & made !m ! same proposal 9 ! pres5ce ( ! ,turks4 ,!y at once ass5t$1 & ! money 0 br\ght 9 an h\r4 ',n[1' said he1 'y see :y ,i pref] ! ,greeks4 ,! fir/ ( y :o compla9s aga9 %all lose 8 head4' ,:5 we got 9 ! ev5+ to ,guzul ,hiss> ,i f\nd ! reports ,i _h pick$ up on ! road exagg]at$ 9 two ma9 p>ticul>s4 ,i _h be5 told t ! plague 0 rag+ 9 ! t[n1 & t !re 7 ,engli% corn-m]*ants to :om ,i c\ld apply = h>b\rage4 ,!re 0 a good deal ( plague1 no d\bt1 9 ! t[n1 :i* is ext5sive1 b h>dly en\gh to det] "o f ent]+ x2 :ile ! ne>e/ ?+ to an ,engli% m]*ant 0 a ,g5oese m]*ant liv+ 9 ! h\se ( a ,s>d9ian doctor :o enjoy$ ,engli% protection4 ,!y made room = me1 & 7 v k9d & hospitable2 & x 0 a com=t to be 9 a ,frank h\se1 b outside x 0 r n]v\s "w4 ,a h\se close to our lodg+ 0 infect$ by ! plague1 & z ,i 0 go+ d[n ! /reet a ,greek w>n$ me to make room = him4 ',i h no?+ ! matt] ) me1' said he1 'b a few days ago my bro!r di$ ( ! plague4' ,ne$ ,i say t ,i compli$ at once4 ,! panic t gr[s 9 a plague-/rick5 city1 & :i* "o _c help imbib+1 has a /range effect on *>act]s4 ,! woman ( ! neighb\r+ h\se1 :i*1 z ,i said1 0 impe/ata1 0 se5 go+ ab\t out ( doors by my ho/ ! doctor1 & he 0 beside himself at ! sight4 ,! importance ( ,guzul ,hiss> z a place ( comm]ce arises f its /&+ on ! track ( ! corn trade betwe5 ! int]ior & ,scala ,nuova4 ,i came ^u c>avans ( "o hundr$ to "o hundr$ & fifty camels1 br++ corn f ,cs>ea4 ,"s br+ x f ev5 z f> z ! bord]s ( ,p]sia4 ,once "h1 its value is d\bl$ or trebl$2 b ! gre$ ( ! agas & ! rogu]y ( ! ,greek m]*ants prev5t mu* ( ! pr(it go+ to ! gr[]s4 ,signor ,mora told me t ! great tr\ble he f\nd 0 ! sy/em ( con/ant d\ceurs & brib]y4 ,x makes x impossible = a m]*ant to make 8 calculations4 ,i walk$ up to see ! few rema9s ( ! city ( ,magnesia4 ,l all ,greek cities1 x /ood above ! pla94 ,!re is a !atre j disc]nible1 a /adium bel[ x1 & a few remnants ( a gymnasium4 ,"o night 9 ,guzul ,hiss> 0 en\gh = me1 & next day ,i />t$ = ,scala ,nuova2 & leav+ ! valley ( ! ,me&] on ! left1 kept by ! m\nta9 to ! "r1 & came late to ,aisaluck1 ! anci5t ,ephesus4 ,"h ,i dismiss$ my janiss>y & horses1 &1 reliev$ ( my exp5sive suite1 sp5t a blissful1 tranquil day alone4 ,! ca/le is a vile ,turki% =t4 ,! great mosque1 9 :i* are "s gr& columns ( granite1 is f9e1 &1 l ! o!rs--= !re are _m 9 ! place--?or\ghly well execut$ 9 ! true ,ori5tal ta/e4 ,! degrad$ mod]n ,turk is incapable ( produc+ any?+ half s good4 ,! rema9s ( ,ephesus are v trifl+1 & :at !re are1 are 9 a v poor /yle4 ,i did n1 any m ?an o!r travell]s1 f9d out ! ,temple ( ,diana1#ci ?\gh ( c\rse ,i h my own op9ion z to ! site4 ,aisaluck is n[ an almo/ des]t$ t[n4 ,x has only ab\t fifte5 inhabit$ h\ses1 & ! mosques & =ts are 9 ru9\s condition1 b _! numb] & spl5d\r %[ t x mu/ once h be5 an important ,turki% city4 ,i call$ on ! aga1 & by way ( a pres5t gave him a little gunp[d]1 ) :i* he 0 delight$4 ,my lodg+ 0 9 a mis]able little cafan1 any?+ b a palace ( luxury4 ,! fleas )91 add$ to ! jackals h[l+ )\t1 prev5t$ my gett+ any re/4 ,b x 0 n mu* worse ?an my o!r lodg+s on ?is t\r4 ,luxuries h be5 few4 ,all ,i c say is ,i h le>nt n to miss !m4 ,9 my ,turki% dress ,i pass )\t obs]vation or inconv5i5ce4 ,9 ! ev5+1 aft] eat+ my meal1 ,i smoke my pipe ) ! o!r ,turks1 g to sleep & get up e>ly4 ,i rode f ,aisaluck to ,scala ,nuova1 :i* is only f\r h\rs (f1 & f !nce ,i took a passage = ,samos on a ,maltese brig ( twelve h&s & six guns & set sail ! foll[+ morn+ 7,m>* #be?72 b :5 we _h made half ! passage1 :i* is by rights only ab\t two h\rs1 we met a furi\s w9d :i* oblig$ u to put back4 ,i w5t a%ore aga91 & z ! w9d rose to ! =ce ( a hurricane ,i wat*$ out ( my w9d[ no less ?an eighte5 boats & vessels ( v>i\s sizes bl[n a%ore & wreck$ "u my v eyes4 ,x 0 a sc5e ( incr$ible de/ruction4 ,! %ore 0 /rewn ) wreckage & c>goes :i* _h be5 ?r[n ov]bo>d--oranges1 corn1 b>rels ( all sorts ( goods--:ile ! sailors1 ru9$1 al?\gh ?ankful to h escap$ ) _! lives1 sat r\nd fires 9 "s %$s by ! port1 ! pictures ( dejection4 ,! w9d deta9$ me till ! #bh?1 :5 ,i cross$ ov] 9 a boat to ,ba?i 9 ,samos4 ,"h ,i _h to wait fir/ = horses1 & !n on acc\nt ( ! bad wea!r4 ,i _h to /ay indoors1 & indoors 9 a ,greek h\se means any?+ b privacy4 ,no matt] :]e y sit1 y he> ev]y?+ t goes on 9 x4 ,application ( any k9d is out ( ! "q4 ,9 ?is case1 ! consul> c\rt be+ at ! o!r end ( ! h\se1 ,i _h to he> ! cases proce$+ 9 x4 ,"o 9 especial w5t on 9 deta*$ *apt]s all ! "t ,i 0 !re4 ,a ,zantiote _h des]t$ 8 wife & *ildr5 eighte5 ye>s ago 9 ,mykoni4 ,he _h s9ce liv$ & be5 m>ri$ 9 ,cyprus1 :ile ! des]t$ wife w5t to ,smyrna & ma9ta9$ h]self & ! *ildr5 by h>d "w4 ,%e _h done :at %e c\ld to f9d h] husb&1 9 va91 till j z ,i arriv$ %e discov]$ him 9 ,samos4 ,%e hal$ him be=e ! consul & dem&$ t he1 be+ ri*1 %\ld support h]4 ,n till ! :ole assembly _h jo9$ ! b5* 9 call+ him e "n !y c\ld inv5t w\ld he cons5t1 b f9ally he sign$ an agreem5t to live ) 8 wife 9 ,samos & support ! daught]4 ,b ?is 0 b ! beg9n+4 ,e day we _h visits f bo? p>ties to compla9 t ! conditions 7 n adh]$ to3 he to say t ! agreem5t to live ) !m did n involve support+ !m2 !y to say !y mu/ be support$1 & mean:ile1 z !y 7 half />v$1 to take an opportunity ( satisfy+ _! appetites at ! consulate4 ,i made acqua9tance ( a pleasant ,russian1 ,monsieur ,m>s*all1 & ) him cross$ ! isl& to see ! antiquities--fir/ ( ! anci5t city & !n ( ! ,temple ( ,juno1 ly+ ?ree-qu>t]s ( an h\r to ! ea/w>d ( x4 ,!re is only "o column ( x rema9+1 b t "o v f9ely cut & ( beautiful m>ble4 ,a few ye>s ago1 ,i und]/&1 !re 7 /ill _m /&+2 b "s 7 bl[n up = ! sake ( ! metal rivets1 & o!rs knock$ ov] by ! ,turki% m5 ( w>1 :o1 z !y 7 v :ite1 us$ !m z a t>get = gunn]y practice4 ,we return$ to ! village ( ,samos = ! night1 & lodg$ ) ! bi%op1 :o 0 m hospitable ?an ,greeks g5]ally are4 ,he 0 a man ( "s +5uity & amus+1 b v ignorant & sup]/iti\s4 ,we w5t by ,ba?i to ,g]onta & across ! ,bogas to ,*anglu on ! ma9l&--rode to ,kelibe% ov] ! top ( range ( hills comm&+ ! valley ( ! ,me&]--& ! lake ( ,myus--& on to ,sansun ,kalesi 7,pri5e71 :i* ,i 0 v glad to see4 ,x is an exce$+ly f9e site4 ,un=tunately x ra9$ & blew s viol5tly t ,i c\ld n d mu*2 b if "o c\ld /ay & dig 9 ! temple1 ,i d>e say "o might f9d a treasure ( /atues1 = x rema9s exactly z x fell4 ,two days aft]1 we set out1 rid+ along ! foot ( ,m\nt ,titanus1 9 frequ5t dang] ( be+ bogg$ 9 ! l[ new-made gr\nd ( ! ,me&]1 :i* ne> ! sea is cov]$ ) s$ge & ru%es inhabit$ by numb]less wat]f[l4 ,! sc5]y 0 (t5 v f9e4 ,we rea*$ ! corn w>eh\ses at ,canna aft] midday1 & f\nd !re my ,s>d9ian corn-m]*ant fri5d f ,guzul ,hiss>4 ,he 0 try+ to make up a c>go1 & at ! mom5t 0 full ( ! wrongs suff]$ by m]*ants 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,a c>avan ( fifte5 camels he 0 expect+ _h be5 /opp$ by an aga1 ! corn !y c>ri$ unload$ & left by ! road1 :ile ! camels 7 s5t away to c>ry cotton into ! int]ior4 ,"h we hir$ a boat2 b1 he>+ fir+ 9 ! ,bogas1 :i* we c\ld only attribute to a pirate1 we 7 n )\t "s qualms at />t+4 ,) ?is 9 our heads1 :5 we saw a l>ge caique mak+ directly t[>ds u1 we 7 naturally en\gh al>m$ & made = ! m\? ( ! ,me&]1 & !re rema9$ till ! b>k came up & prov$ itself to be only a fi%+ caique4 ,sett+ =w>d aga9 ) a v /rong w9d1 we rea*$ ! port ( ,g]onta aft] d>k4 ,! boatman mi/ook ! entrance & v ne>ly ran u on to a rock "s di/ance f ! %ore1 ^u :i* he got into a fright & lo/ all pres5ce ( m9d4 ,! w9d1 z ,i said1 be+ v high1 ! position 0 s s]i\s t ,m>s*all & ,i took ! managem5t ( ! b>k1 & giv+ ! man a cuff s5t him =w>d to look out = ! port4 ,9 ?is fa%ion we f\nd x & got 94 ,ev5 !n we 7 n well (f1 = ! place 0 p]fectly solit>y1 & we _h no m9d to rema9 all night 9 ! boat4 ,x grew extremely d>k1 & x 0 an h\r & a half be=e we c\ld f9d ! village4 ,on ! way to x1 we pass$ ! massive rema9s ( ! ,temple ( ,apollo ,didymu1 & z !y loom$ ?r\gh ! d>kness !y look$ v gr&--gr&] ?an ,i ?\ght !m next morn+ by daylight4 ,! village ( ,g]onta is only ab\t ?irty ye>s old & is inhabit$ entirely by ,albanian & ,greek immigrants :o seem fairly prosp]\s4 ,! pa%a1 ,elis ,oglu1 l 8 neighb\r ,k>asman ,oglu1 is a great patron ( ,greeks4 ,we set sail at night1 b _h to put back1 aft] a h>d night1 to a port close to ,g]onta & wait !re ?ree days till ! wea!r improv$4 ,:5 at la/ we got away1 9 five h\rs we 7 (f ,cape ,ciron1 :i* ends 9 a l(ty hill by :i* is ,knidos4 ,at my reque/ ! capta9 w5t into ! port1 & v glad ,i 0 to see ! place2 ! situation is s curi\s3 b ,i f\nd no inscription or antiquities ( any k9d4 ,i slept 9 ! boat1 & we />t$ at midnight4 ,! w9d 0 furi\s2 & z ! b>k lab\r$ & /ra9$ 9 ! waves1 ,dimitri groan$ ) fe>4 ,x 0 inde$ f> f pleasant2 b z ! day came on ! w9d w5t d[n1 till we 7 absolutely becalm$ (f ! little isl& ( ,symi1 & did n get into ,rhodes till aft]noon4 ,i 0 prep>+ to g to visit ! consul1 & _h walk$ a few y>ds 9 t direction :5 ,i saw ano!r boat come into port1 & 9 x1 to my surprise1 :o b ,mr4 ,nor?4 ,he 0 z a/oni%$ z myself1 & z pleas$4 ,we w5t toge!r to ! consul's4 ,!re we _h long conv]sation on ! subject ( ! isl&1 its inhabitants1 products1 c4 ,! pres5t gov]nor ( ,rhodes is ,hassan ,bey1 slave ( a previ\s gov]nor--a man ( great simplicity ( life4 ,i f\nd him sitt+ 9 ! passage ( 8 palace )\t att5dants or pomp4 ,al?\gh he is ab\t sev5ty ye>s old & deaf1 he receiv$ z a pres5t1 by ! same boat z ,mr4 ,nor? came 91 a female slave4 ,he builds %ips "h = ,gov]nm5t1 & has "o1 a frigate1 = 8 own beho(1 :i* he uses himself = piratical purposes :ile ) x he cle>s ! neighb\r+ seas ( all o!r pirates4 ,two days aft]1 ,i left ,rhodes & sail$ ea/w>ds ) a light breeze1 till 9 ! ev5+ we 7 becalm$ (f ! ,sev5 ,capes4 ,9 ! morn+ ,i 0 awak5$ by /range voices on bo>d4 ,we _h be5 bo>d$ by ,hydriotes inquir+ = corn4 ,_! %ip _h be5 ly+ (f ! coa/ = "s days1 bo>d+ e boat t pass$ = corn4 ,%e 0 a l>ge %ip ) a crew ( sixty m51 :o seem$ to sp5d all _! "t 9 m]rily danc+ & fiddl+4 ,we r[$ into ! port1 :i* is a f9e h>b\r1 & :5 ,i _h l&$ ,i f\nd a boy to und]take to guide u to ,pat>a4 ,x took two h\rs to walk !re1 keep+ all ! way by ! side ( an aqu$uct4 ,we met a few savage-look+ ,turks arm$1 & a boy or two play+ on wild simple re$s4 ,! :ole c\ntry 0 v wild & desolate1 & ! road a m]e track4 ,! ru9s are consid]able1 &1 al?\gh none ( !m belong to ! f9e/ "t1 v int]e/+4 ,!y h an inexpressibly =lorn appe>ance1 /&+ z !y d half buri$ 9 ! s&4 ,! once ext5sive port is entirely silt$ up4 ,! !atre is half fill$ up4 ,i f\nd 9 x an inscription1 f :i* ,i ga!r$ t ! auditorium is ( lat] date ?an ! prosc5ium4 ,ne> ! head ( ! port are two l>ge mausolea1 at lea/ ,i suppose t is :at !y are2 & besides ^! !re are ! rema9s ( =tifications ( ! ,l[] ,empire & ( sev]al *ur*es4 ,i c\ld n get ov] to exam9e ! build+s on ! opposite side ( ! port4 ,we />t$ = ,ca/el ,rosso1 b 7 becalm$4 ,! boys play$ & danc$1 & we did n get 9 till ! ev5+4 ,! port1 a poor "o1 is def5d$ by a ca/le :i* is r$1 :5ce ! "n4 ,! few savages we f\nd on ! bea* receiv$ u ) great suspicion1 ) arms 9 _! h&s1 b sold u "s provisions4 ,9 ! morn+ ,i l&$ & look$ ab\t4 ,inside ! walls !re are _m ru9s ( h\ses1 all ( ! ,l[] ,empire1 :ile ! walls !mselves are ( mu* e>li] date 9 cyclopean masonry4 ,outside ! old walls & 9 ! mod]n t[n !re are sev]al anci5t tombs t h be5 respect$ & are 9 good pres]vation4 ,! gr\nd is incr$ibly rugg$ & /ony1 almo/ z bad z ,ma9a4 ,we sail$ (f at midday1 & got to ! small port ( ,cacava 9 ! ev5+4 ,!re1 among ! mod]n h\ses1 are a numb] ( tombs1 all ( !m respect$ & well pres]v$4 ,z ! cross is on mo/ ( !m1 ! t[n mu/ h fl\ri%$ dur+ ! ,l[] ,empire4 ,i f\nd & copi$ v>i\s inscriptions1 "s ( !m 9 a "* ,i h n se5 be=e4 ,9 ! ev5+ we cross$ to ,myra1 & !re ,i enjoy$ a good ba!4 ,!n :5 night _h come on1 we work$ ! o>s aga9/ w9d till we rea*$ a port at ! ea/ end ( ,k>adah1 & :5 x 0 morn+ cross$ to visit ! %r9e ( ,/4 ,nicolas4 ,! sea 0 s high we _h to leave ! caique & walk ?i!r4 ,/4 ,nicolas is a fav\rite sa9t ( ! ,greeks1 & 8 %r9e is greatly rev]$4 ,our capta9 & crew 7 all dress$ 9 _! v be/ to make _! cross1 & _h br\ght ) !m a bottle ( oil z an (f]+4 ,! road 0 wret*$1 & :at made x worse 0 t 9 wad+ across a riv] :i* 0 ov] my knees ,i s wett$ my %alv> t !y 7 heavy to walk 94 ,at ! m\? ( ! riv] ,zan?us we f\nd _m tombs1 b none ( :i* ,i c\ld read ! inscription4 ,! holy place consi/s ( half ( a ru9$ *ur* ( ! ,l[] ,empire1 & by ! side ( x a small *apel 9 :i* is ! tomb4 ,! entrance to x is s l[ t we 7 oblig$ to g d[n on our h&s & knees to get 94 ,! ,greeks knelt d[n1 b[$ _! =eheads to ! e>?1 made crosses & said pray]s2 !n1 putt+ "s p>ahs on a tray1 took "s small c&les f a bundle beside x1 & /uck !m r\nd ! tomb4 ,! c]emony be+ ov]1 we took "s e>? f ne> ! tomb to keep z a relic1 & fell into conv]sation ) ! papa ( ! %r9e1 ,nicola by "n1 native ( ,salonica4 ,he told u t e>ly 9 life 9 a sev]e illness he _h v[$ s]vice to ,/4 ,nicolas = ! re/ ( 8 life if he recov]$3 t1 be+ re/or$ to heal?1 he _h come "h 9 fulfilm5t ( 8 v[1 b t he l$ b a mis]able life1 9 con/ant appreh5sion ( ! ,turks1 :o are v viol5t & fanatical h]eab\ts4 ,i w5t on ) ,dimitri & ! capta9 to see "s rema9s ( :i* he told me1 at no great di/ance1 b ! o!r ,greeks 7 afraid to accompany me or ev5 to %[ me ! way4 ,h[ev]1 ,i f\nd ! ru9s--a !atre 9 a/oni%+ pres]vation1 & "s highly int]e/+ tombs1 & 0 quietly tak+ measurem5ts ( !m :5 sev]al ,turks appe>$4 ,!y seem$ highly to disapprove ( our op]ations4 ,:ile exam9+ "s /atues ,i he>d "o ( !m exclaim3 ',if ! infidels are attract$ "h by ^! blasphem\s figures ! temptation %all soon cease1 = :5 t dog is gone ,i w de/roy !m4' ,!n "s ( !m w5t away & pres5tly came back ) a l>g] p>ty4 ,:ile ,i 0 above 9 ! upp] "p ( ! build+1 !y sudd5ly seiz$ ! arms ( ,dimitri & ! capta91 & ord]$ u to foll[ !m to ! aga1 :o liv$ at a di/ance ( no less ?an six h\rs (f4 ,at ?is ,i remon/rat$1 say+ t ,i 0 an ,engli%man1 a fri5d2 b !y answ]$ t ,i li$1 t we 7 gia\r ,russians1 & 7 plott+ to take possession ( ! place4 ,!y want$ to exam9e our ?+s1 b ?is ,i resi/$4 ,my firman un=tunately 0 left beh9d 9 ! boat1 & matt]s began to look ugly4 ,! lea/ enc\ragem5t f ! eld] memb]s w\ld h l$ ! cr[d ( ruffians to take /rong measures4 ,i c\ld p]ceive t1 b ,i saw no exit f our dilemma4 ,!re 01 =tunately1 /ill "o eld] ( ! village to be consult$1 & he 0 ill at home4 ,! *ief ( our captors w5t (f to consult him1 & a qu>t] ( an h\r lat] return$ a diff]5t man1 8 rage assuag$1 & will+ to accept ! capta9's assurance t ,i 0 an ,engli%man4 ,he !n return$ me my arms & begg$ t ,i w\ld g :]e ,i ?\ght prop]4 ,( c\rse ,i 0 v mu* pleas$ at ?is dn\emeut1 b ,i kept my c\nt5ance & pret5d$ to be /ill v angry1 at :i* ! lead]1 :o 0 n[ afraid ( me1 positively quail$ = fe> ( my v5geance4 ,we slept ! night "u protection ( ,/4 ,nicolas4 ,accompani$ by ! papas1 we took a boat on ! riv] & r[$ d[n to ! port at ! m\?1 & across ! bay to ! port :]e our b>k lay4 ,:ile ,i 0 swimm+1 foll[+ ! boat1 ,i 0 n a little fright5$ to meet a l>ge snake :i* 0 mak+ = ! l&4 ,i got out ( its way ha/ily & call$ to ! boys 9 ! caique1 :o kill$ x z x approa*$ ! %ore4 ,x 0 black1 ) "s r$ spots on ! belly1 & measur$ five feet two in*es 9 l5g?4 ,we heav$ an*or at night1 & 9 ! morn+ rea*$ ! port ( ,f9ica4 ,! t[n itself is ?ree-qu>t]s ( an h\r f ! sea4 ,!re are ! rema9s ( a !atre1 ! seats all gone1 & a ca/le ( ! ,l[] ,empire1 built ( ! said seats4 ,i f\nd v>i\s monum5ts1 ! inscriptions all 9 ! same unkn[n "*4 ,at a mill h>d by1 ,i fell 9 ) a numb] ( m]*ants belong+ to ,sp>ta1 9 ,asia ,m9or1 six days f "h4 ,x is curi\s t !y all talk ,turki%1 b write x 9 ,greek *>act]s4 ,i f\nd !m v bigot$ b civil4 ,we slept 9 ! op5 air1 all 9 a r[4 ,z ,i _h promis$ !m "s fi%1 !y l5t me a horse1 & "o ( !m accompani$ me back to ! port2 b un=tunately no fi% _h be5 caught 9 ! night1 s ,i _h to make up = x ) five okes ( olives & a l>ge botza ( w9e1 on :i* my fri5ds got excessively drunk4 ,we n[ got on bo>d & tri$ to beat out ( port1 b x 0 n s easy4 ,x is v n>r[1 & a s\?-ea/ w9d1 su* z we _h at ! mom5t1 bl[s "r into x4 ,once out1 we cross$ ! bay & got into ! small port ( ,c>osi4 ,we _h n[ to get r\nd ! cape4 ,all along ?is coa/ an imbat or sea breeze spr+s up f ! s\? regul>ly at midday4 ,z we took c>e1 by r[+ h>d s\?w>ds1 to get r\nd ! po9t be=e twelve1 we caught ! breeze nicely1 :i* c>ri$ u /raight nor? to ,porto ,g5ovese by night4 ,?is is a f9e port1 & ! rocks above x are v gr&4 ,we caught & ate a f9e supp] ( fi%1 & sat cross-legg$ on our little deck dr9k+ w9e ) an enjoym5t ( ?is adv5tur\s1 unconv5tional life ,i c nev] =get4 ,! night 0 cool1 ! moon %one bright ^u u1 & we cr[n$ ! ev5+ ) ,moriote songs4 ,x 0 pa/ midnight be=e we got to b$4 ,x 0 a %ort di/ance to ! foot ( ,olympus4 ,:5 ,i met ,capta9 ,f4 ,beau=t at ,smyrna1 he gave me an acc\nt ( ! volcanic fire :i* spr+s up out ( a hole 9 ! side ( ?is m\nta91 & ,i wi%$ to see x4 ,x lies ab\t an h\r's walk up ! hill4 ,! flame 0 j l t ( a furnace1 & ! m\?1 ab\t five feet wide1 f :i* x issu$1 0 all calc9$4 ,t5 feet f x 0 ano!r m\?1 f :i* no fire b a /rong sulphur\s smell issu$1 & ab\t fifty y>ds high] up ! hill !re 0 a spr+4 ,close by !re 7 also ! rema9s ( a temple1 %[+ t ! spot _h be5 held sacr$ 9 anci5t times4 ,my guide told me t ! fire w\ld roa/ eggs well1 b n if !y 7 /ol5--inde$ x w\ld n act ^u /ol5 ?+s at all4 ,greeks are v sup]/iti\s1 & ?is is "o ( ! fav\rite =ms x takes ) !m4 ,i tri$ to confute him by cutt+ a scrap (f 8 turban :ile 8 back 0 turn$ & %[+ him h[ x burn$1 b al?\gh he saw x consum$ x did n %ake 8 belief 9 ! lea/4 ,i w5t d[nhill aga9 to ! ru9s4 ,!y consi/$ mo/ly ( ,v5etian or ,g5oese "w1 b !re 0 ! door ( a portico erect$ to ,g]manicus1 a small !atre on ! s\? side ( ! riv]1 & "s v r\gh tombs ( ,roman times1 among :i* ,i drew until nightfall4 ,next morn+ we _h an en*ant+ sail to ,phaselis4 ,! breeze 0 slight & ! dolph9s play$ all r\nd u1 z ?\gh !y enjoy$ ! fair wea!r4 ,phaselis 0 once a fav\rite /ronghold ( pirates1 & is j made = x4 ,x /&s on a p59sula easily def5d$1 & has or _h--= all are n[ de/roy$--?ree excell5t h>b\rs4 ,! t[n 0 def5d$ by a /rong wall1 & 0 provid$ ) numb]s ( ci/]ns1 besides an aqu$uct = br++ wat] f ! ma9l&4 ,:]e ! sea _h und]m9$ ! cliffs1 p>ts ( ! wall & sides ( ci/]ns _h fall5 away into x4 ,!re 7 "s tombs only j rec5tly mutilat$1 :i* ,i ?\ght wor? mak+ draw+s (4 ,9 ! ev5+ we put out our net & caught "s fi%1 b lo/ "p ( ! net1 ow+ to an octopus :i* clung to x & dragg$ x into its hole4 ,april #bh?4--,we weigh$ an*or e>ly1 b !re 0 no w9d z yet1 & we _h r[$ = "s h\rs :5 we became aw>e ( a l>ge sail com+ up on a breeze4 ,z ,i scann$ h] ,i _h little d\bt %e w\ld be ! ,salsette or ! ,fr$]ik/e52 b my poor capta9 0 v mu* fright5$1 & :5 he saw h] s5d a boat to bo>d a small vessel be=e u1 he desir$ 8 sons to hide 8 money 9 ! balla/4 ,x 0 n long1 h[ev]1 be=e ,i made out ) my glass ! r$ cross1 & !n ,i 0 able to set 8 m9d at re/4 ,:5 our little caique came alongside1 we mu/ h be5 a %abby sight2 b ,capta9 ,beau=t bade me he>tily welcome & gave me s cordial a %ake ( ! h& z ,i c nev] =get4 ,he said he _h hunt$ = me all along ! coa/1 & press$ me to take a cruise ) him1 r ?an g on travell+ 9 ?is haz>d\s fa%ion 9 ! caique4 ,! (f] 0 tantalis+2 b1 z ,i 0 n sure if ,i %\ld feel at my ease1 ,i only promis$ to /ay a few days to beg9 )4 ,extract f ,beau=t's ,k>amania4--,at ,avova we _h ! satisfaction ( meet+ ,mr4 ,cock]ell1 :o _h be5 induc$ by our report to explore ! antiquities ( ^! desolate regions4 ,he _h hir$ a small ,greek vessel1 & _h already coa/$ "p ( ,lycia4 ,^? :o h exp]i5c$ ! fil? & o!r mis]ies ( su* a mode ( conveyance1 & :o "k ! dang]s t await an unprotect$ ,european among ^! tribes ( uncivilis$ ,mahomm$ans1 c alone appreciate ! ard\r :i* c\ld lead to su* an ent]prise4 ,i succe$$ 9 p]suad+ him to remove to ,8 ,maje/y's %ip1 9 :i* he might pursue 8 rese>*es ) less haz>d & ) "s degree ( com=t4 ,! al>m felt by 8 crew on see+ ! frigate _h be5 excessive4 ,_h %e be5 a ,turki% man-(-w>1 !y 7 sure ( be+ pillag$ "u ! pretext ( exact+ a pres5t2 if a ,b>b>y cruis]1 ! y\nge/ m5 w\ld h be5 =cibly seiz$ = recruits1 & ! re/ plund]$2 & ev5 if %e _h be5 a ,greek m]*ant-%ip1 _! security w\ld /ill h be5 prec>i\s2 = :5 "o ( ^! l>ge ,greek polaccas meets ev5 h] own c\ntrym5 9 small vessels & 9 unfrequ5t$ places %e (t5 compels !m to assi/ 9 load+ h]1 or arbitr>ily takes _! c>goes at h] own prices4 ,,footnote3 #ci ,! ,temple ( ,diana 0 discov]$ by ,mr4 ,j4 ,t4 ,wood1 :o c>ri$ on excavations f #ahfc to #ahgd on behalf ( ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,adalia--,,satalia 7,,sid7--,,alaia--,,ho/ility ,,( ,,natives--,,sel9ty--,,cape ,,anemurium--,,visit ,,( ,a ,,pa%a--,,*el9dreh--,,porto ,,cavali]o--,,seleucia--,a ,,private]--,,natives ,,ho/ile--,,pompeiopolis--,,t>s\s--,a ,,poor ,,reception-- ,,explores ,a ,,lake--,,ca/le ,,( ,,ayas--,,capta9 ,,beau=t ,,w\nd$ ,,by ,,natives--,,sails ,,= ,,malta4 ,on ! #a/ ( ,may we rea*$ ,adalia 7or ,satalia74 ,x /&s on a pla9 :i* breaks abruptly into ! sea & looks v ri* & ,ori5tal f a di/ance4 ,consid]+ ! way ,capta9 ,beau=t _h giv5 protection to c]ta9 fugitive rebels la/ ye>1 he 0 r unc]ta9 :at sort ( reception to expect4 ,x turn$ out to be a v cordial "o1 = ! old pa%a hav+ j di$ & 8 son n yet firmly set 9 place1 he c\ld n deal ) ! high h& z ,turks l to d4 ,he express$ himself z pleas$ at ! capta9's (f] to salute ! =tress1 b begg$ ! guns might n be m ?an elev51 probably because he _h only elev5 guns to answ] )4 ,x 0 cle>1 h[ev]1 t ! appe>ance ( ! vessel _h excit$ no small appreh5sion 9 ! t[n4 ,no ,turks came to look at h]1 z usually happ5s 9 a port1 & we c\ld see t ! few mis]able guns 9 ! =t _h be5 tra9$ to be> ^u u4 ,at ! same "t a h&some pres5t 0 s5t to ! %ip1 consi/+ ( bullocks1 goats1 f[ls1 vegetables1 & a v magnific5t dress = ! capta94 ,! dress 0 refus$1 b ! eatables 7 accept$ & a suitable return made4 ,?is includ$ ,engli% ale & port]1 & a big b>rel ( gunp[d]1 :i*1 slung on a pole c>ri$ by two seam51 look$ impos+4 ,! capta9 & 8 boat's crew & gu>d ( m>9es1 all 9 _! be/1 & my humble self !n l&$ & w5t up to pay a visit ( c]emony to ! pa%a4 ,capta9 ,beau=t 9 ! c\rse ( ! int]view v k9dly ask$1 on my behalf1 leave = ! capta9 ( my caique--:i* _h come on to ,adalia ) u--to load 8 boat ) fl\r1 a pr(itable c>go :i* w\ld indemnify him = be+ dis*>g$ by me4 ,! export ( fl\r is really contrab&1 b z !re is an imm5se trade q op5ly c>ri$ on 9 x by ,greek %ips1 !y ne$ n h made su* a great fav\r ( x z !y did4 ,h[ev]1 !y gave p]mission1 & ,i 0 indignant t my late capta9 nev] came & ?ank$ me4 ,dur+ our /ay we rode "o day ?r\gh ! t[n & out into ! c\ntry beyond1 :i* is v ri* & well cultivat$4 ,!re are two int]e/+ gates to ! t[n--"o on ! l& side1 ( ,roman ar*itecture1 v ri* & mu* injur$1 & ! o!r t[>ds ! sea1 ( ,franki% "w1 ) mutilat$ arms & inscriptions on x4 ,we set sail on ! #g?1 )\t d\bt to ! great relief ( ! p ( ,adalia1 & ca/ an*or aga9 at ,l>a4 ,"h !re are consid]able ru9s1 b none ( !m v int]e/+4 ,our next /oppage 0 at ,e%i ,satalia1 ! anci5t ,sid1 :]e we rema9$ f\r days4 ,! ,roman !atre is ( va/ dim5sions & 9 good pres]vation1 & x is noticeable t1 z is evid5t f m>ks ( crosses on ! /ones1 x _h be5 repair$ 9 ,*ri/ian times1 :i* %[s t !atres 7 /ill us$ aft] ! conv]sion ( ! inhabitants to ,*ri/ianity4 ,! prosc5ium 0 9 ru9s1 z usual1 & "s ( its sculptures lay 9 ! ar5a4 ,9 comp>atively mod]n times x _h be5 utilis$ to =m "p ( ! city wall1 b ! !atre itself 0 9 wond]ful pres]vation4 ,sid is n[ absolutely desolate1 probably because ! aqu$uct :i* suppli$ ! anci5t city is brok51 & !re is no wat] :atev] on ! site4 ,?is acc\nts = ! !atre be+ s well pres]v$4 ,i sp5t all my "t among ^! lonely ru9s to v good purpose1 draw+ & /udy+4 ,! ar*itecture is "s ( x ev5 absurd3 = in/ance1 ! triumphal faade at ! entrance2 b ! sculpture is all f> sup]ior to ! ar*itecture4 ,al?\gh n 9 ! v be/ /yle1 x is exce$+ly good1 & cut ) a/oni%+ fre$om & boldness4 ,z ,i said1 ! site ( ,sid1 & ev5 ! neighb\rhood1 is absolutely des]t$4 ,nev]!less1 news ( our be+ on ! coa/ _h got ab\t1 & a ,turki% dignit>y came d[n f ! int]ior1 o/5sibly to (f] u civilities1 b 9 reality to wat* our proce$+s4 ,he 0 invit$ on bo>d1 b refus$1 say+1 ) a great assumption ( dignity1 t he _h ridd5 an h\r to ! coa/ to visit ! capta91 & n[ ! capta9 %\ld come to him4 ,! real fact 0 he 0 afraid4 ,! capta9 accord+ly came 9 ! jolly-boat1 ! crew ( :i* 0 9 *>ge ( a mid%ipman :o *>m$ ! ,turk s mu* t he want$ to buy him1 & made an (f] ( #b1jjj pia/res = him4 ,on ! #af? we rea*$ ,alaia & an*or$ (f ! t[n4 ,x /&s on a /eep rock project+ into ! sea4 ,! h\ses h a v ,ori5tal look1 ) _! flat ro(s & balconies1 r l rabbit-hut*es support$ on long poles4 ,our reception 0 v cordial2 a salute 0 fir$1 & a pres5t ( bullocks c4 s5t u4 ,we l&$ to take a little turn into ! t[n & f\nd x fil?y2 /9ks ( all k9ds 9 all directions4 ,?r\gh n>r[ /reets d[n :i* w\nd gutt]s1 disgu/+ ) horrors flung f upp] w9d[s1 we ?read$ our way 9 appreh5sion ( m4 ,! ladies1 h[ev]1 7 eag] to see ! ,franks1 & f ! /reets & f ! %ip we c\ld descry !m peep+ at u 9 _! balconies4 ,i w5t ) ! capta9 to pay our visit to ! c\ncil :i* gov]ns 9 ! abs5ce ( ! pa%a4 ,we f\nd x sitt+ 9 a mis]able tumbl$[n room ) walls n ev5 pla/]$4 ,we sat a few m9utes1 ask$ a few que/ions ma9ly ab\t antiquities1 & !n retir$ to ! %ip to receive _! return visit4 ,next morn+ we set (f to ! ea/w>ds to look = ru9s ( ,sydra4 ,! exp$ition 0 n a success4 ,9 ! fir/ place ! surf 0 high & we _h difficulty 9 l&+2 !n aft] a long walk we came ^u sev]al villages1 b no consid]able ru9s1 & :at !re 71 only ( late date & un9t]e/+1 & we _h to trudge back disappo9t$4 ,9 ! c\rse ( our walk we came ^u a small ,turki% boy all alone4 ,he scream$ ) fright to see our /range figures & ran away1 b\nd+ ov] /ock & /one1 & /ill scream+ = help4 ,he _h nev] se5 ,franks be=e4 ,! foll[+ day we1 ! capta9 & (fic]s 9 uni=m & myself 9 my be/1 l&$ to walk 9 ! t[n4 ,we 7 fir/ deta9$ a long "t at ! gate on small excuses1 & !n :5 we />t$ 7 told by ! guide t if we proce$$ !re 0 dang] ( a di/urbance4 ,! capta9 told him to g on all ! same1 b z he refus$ we turn$ back to ! port4 ,!n we le>nt t ! ev5+ be=e !re _h be5 a g5]al meet+ ( ! ,turks to prote/ aga9/ our be+ all[$ to g ab\t ! t[n4 ,we w5t abo>d aga92 & f ! %ip an (fic] 0 s5t to ! c\ncil ) a sev]e remon/rance aga9/ our treatm5t1 & ! pres5t ( bullocks 0 re-l&$ on ! bea*4 ,?is attitude ( ours br\ght !m at once to _! knees2 ! humble/ apologies 7 s5t ) assurances t ! (f5d]s 7 be+ puni%$1 & a reque/ t ,capta9 ,beau=t w\ld come a%ore & see ! ca/le z he desir$4 ,! capta9 repli$ t an (fic] ( 8 rank c\ld n expose himself to ! possibility ( a repetition ( su* affronts z he _h submitt$ to t morn+1 b t ! beyzesday 7myself7 ) "s ( 8 (fic]s w\ld g1 z !y all[$ x4 ,we accord+ly w5t2 b z ! au?ority ( gov]nors 9 ^! c\ntries is at no "t v great1 we w5t 9 ! fulle/ expectation ( a di/urbance & ( be+ =c$ to turn back4 ,! c\ncil seems1 h[ev]1 to h kept its promise1 = no?+ ( ! sort occurr$4 ,we 7 entirely unmole/$4 ,on ! o!r h&1 !re 0 no?+ :atev] to see4 ,x 0 a mo/ fatigu+ walk up ! hill4 ,! t[n is def5d$ by ?ree walls1 "o inside ! o!r1 nev] well built & n[ ru9\s1 al?\gh well :itewa%$ to conceal _! condition1 & 9 ! :ole place only f\r cannon1 all ( !m old4 ,on ! top ( all is ! citadel1 itself ru9\s & full ( ! ru9s ( sev]al ,*ri/ian mona/]ies & *ur*es conv]t$ into mosques1 "s wat] tanks & a f\nta94 ,ov] a gate is an inscription to say t ,alad9 0 conqu]or ( ?is city4 ,!re are rema9s ( a f9e anci5t ,greek wall4 ,?is 0 all we saw = our tr\ble & risk4 ,! c\ncil aga9 s5t apologies & invitations to ,capta9 ,beau=t1 b he repli$ z be=e2 only1 to %[ he _h no res5tm5t1 he s5t 8 surgeon1 :ile ! an*or 0 be+ weigh$1 to see :at he c\ld d = a memb] ( ! c\ncil :o 0 ill4 ,i mean:ile1 ) a p>ty ( (fic]s1 w5t (f 9 ! gig to look at "s ru9s we _h obs]v$ to ! we/w>d on ! top ( a hill4 ,we _h ?ree miles to g 9 ! boat & ab\t two on foot inl&4 ,! hill is high & desp]ately /eep4 ,on ! top is a t[n1 des]t$1 ) anci5t ,greek walls1 a t[]1 ! ru9s ( a temple1 a numb] ( p$e/als & monum5ts1 "s ) inscriptions :i* we copi$1 b none ( !m gave u ! "n ( ! place4 ,we h made up our m9ds s9ce1 judg+ by ,/rabo's description1 t x mu/ h be5 ,la]tes4 ,! city walls1 ! temple1 & ! t[] are all ( cut /one & ! be/ ,greek con/ruction1 :ile ! walls ( dwell+s are ( small /ones & mort>4 ,?is t[n1 be+ all ( "o sort ( date1 is a good example by :i* to judge ( ,greek habits ( build+4 ,i suppose private h\ses 7 always built 9 ?is inf]ior /yle4 ,our next /oppage 0 at ,sel9ty1 orig9ally ,sel9us1 & aft]w>ds *ang$1 on ! dea? ( ,trajan )9 its walls1 to ,trajanopolis4 ,x /&s on a rem>kable rock1 ! ,cragus1 absolutely precipit\s on "o side & v /eep on ! o!r1 ) a riv]1 sixty feet or s wide1 at ! bottom ( ! slope4 ,x /ruck "o z curi\s t ) su* a riv] !re %\ld be an aqu$uct to c>ry wat] across x into ! t[n4 ,"o c\ld only suppose t ! wat] ( ! riv]1 l t ( ! cat>acts ne> ,adalia1 0 un:olesome because x conta9$ a *alky s$im5t4 ,to ! top ( ! ,cragus is a great climb4 ,!re we f\nd a =tress )\t any inscriptions ( any k9d1 b1 to judge by ! /yle1 ( no great age & no int]e/4 ,! be/ ?+ 0 ! view4 ,b5ea? u fell a %e] precipice "r d[n into ! sea1 p]haps five hundr$ feet4 ,z we look$ ov] ! top ! eagles sprang out f ! rocks f> bel[ u1 s f> t %ots fir$ at !m 7 q ineffective4 ,we f\nd "h a small !atre1 mu* ru9$1 & ! rema9s ( a gr& s5ate h\se1 or p]haps a mausoleum to ,trajan1 also v mu* injur$4 ,! %ip rema9$ a day & a half4 ,aft] pass+ a promontory we came opposite to a rocky ridge slop+ rapidly to ! sea1 on :i* 0 a =tress1 answ]+ to ,/rabo's ,antio*etta on ! ,cragus4 ,we put (f 9 ! gig1 & _h to l& on a precipit\s rock 9 a high surf1 :i* ,i did n l at all2 b z we _h be5 br\ght1 x _h to be done4 ,we f\nd a place t mu/ h _h "s importance4 ,!re 7 fragm5ts ( poli%$ granite columns1 a mod]n ca/le1 sev]al ,greek *apels1 & ru9s on all sides z well4 ,! mo/ promis+ 7 on ! m\nta9 above u & on a small p59sula jutt+ out f ! site ( ! t[n4 ,my companions made = ! small p59sula1 :]e !y f\nd "s tombs l ^? at ,sel9ty1 & o!r matt]s ( no great mom5t4 ,i1 hop+ = some?+ m consid]able1 w5t up ! m\nta9--& a v r\gh climb x 04 ,i 01 h[ev]1 well paid = my ex]tions4 ,i f\nd !re numb]s ( granite columns1 m>ble blocks & p$e/als1 & ! ru9s ( a va/ & magnific5t edifice :i* might h be5 a s5ate h\se or a gymnasium4 ,! situation ( x 0 truly sublime1 & x mu/ h _h a glori\s effect f ! sea4 ,i hop$ to return & exam9e x m p]fectly next day1 b un=tunately ,capta9 ,beau=t ?\ght x necess>y to get on to ,cape ,anemurium by ! #bd?1 9 ord] to make an obs]vation ( ,jupit]'s satellite :i* w\ld det]m9e at once 8 longitude1 & ! w9d 0 fav\rable4 ,we w5t on !re=e1 to my great regret1 & ! same ev5+ 7#bcrd7 an*or$ opposite a small ca/le on a l[ rock by ! sea4 ,next day1 z we 7 all[$1 we w5t all ov] ! ca/le4 ,x appe>s to be ( ,s>ac5 orig91 & accord+ to an inscription to h be5 conqu]$ by ! ,turk ,alad94 ,a rem>kable ?+ ab\t x is t x has a keep l ^? "o sees 9 ,engl&4 ,x is all 9 ru9s2 su* guns z x has are ly+ ab\t dism\nt$4 ,i suppose ! p h]eab\ts are s fright5$ at u t !y s5d ! news ab\t 9 all directions2 = ! bey ( ! di/rict1 :o lives at "s di/ance inl&1 _h he>d ( our arrival1 & s5t d[n 8 complim5ts4 ,capta9 ,beau=t ha/5$ to s5d a suitable reply to 8 c\rtesy by an (fic] ) an invitation to come on bo>d1 :]e he w\ld be receiv$ ) all ! hon\rs ( w>4 ,he did promise to come :5 he c\ld4 ,all day long ,capta9 ,beau=t 0 prep>+1 on a small isl& close to ! ca/le1 ! necess>y arrangem5ts = mak+ 8 obs]vation4 ,x 0 p]fectly successful1 & we got back on bo>d at "o o'clock ,a4,m4 #be? ,may4--,hav+ done :at 0 want$ ) reg>d to ! v]ification ( ! longitude1 we w5t back 9 a boat to ,cape ,anemurium to see ! anci5t t[n4 ,on ! po9t is a =tress & citadel4 ,outside ( t a second wall includes a !atre & an odeum1 ! seats ( :i* are all gone4 ,!re are no traces ( dwell+s )9 ! walls1 s t "o mu/ suppose ! inhabitants to h liv$ 9 mud or timb] h\ses1 = outside ! walls !re is ! mo/ p]fect necropolis ,i ev] saw4 ,ea* tomb has two ap>tm5ts1 & all1 except = _! hav+ be5 brok5 op51 are z fre% z if j built4 ,! %ip be+ /ill at ,anemurium1 ! bey above m5tion$ came d[n to ! bea* att5d$ by 8 ret9ue4 ,z soon z we made him out1 we pu%$ (f to pay him ! complim5ts ( ! capta94 ,no?+ c\ld be m picturesque ?an ! sc5e :5 we rea*$ ! %ore4 ,at ! foot ( ! precipice ( ,anemurium he 0 seat$ on a small c>pet spread on ! rock1 surr\nd$ by ab\t a hundr$ d>k1 savage-look+ m5 all heavily arm$4 ,!y 7 cle>ly z pleas$ to look at u z we 7 to see ! b>b>ians ( ! int]ior4 ,! gloomy ev5+ ca/ a grave air ov] ! wild crags & ! savage figures1 :ile ! sea broke 9 heavy waves at ! foot ( ! rock on :i* ,abdul ,muim sat4 ,! mann] ) :i* ! bey receiv$ u 0 free & polite4 ,he told u ! hi/ory ( ! c\ntry ab\t u1 & ( ! ca/le 9 p>ticul>4 ,he 0 v mu* press$ to come abo>d1 b he w\ld n be tempt$4 ,in/ead ( t1 he cont5t$ himself ) inquir+ ! l5g? ( ! %ip & sat look+ at h] ) a pocket telescope = sev]al h\rs4 ,we cross$ a bay1 & lay (f ,cape ,kisliman1 a bluff & rem>kable cape on :i* 7 ru9s1 b ! p ( ! c\ntry seem$ to object to our exam9+ !m4 ,!nce to ,*el9dreh1 :i*1 be+ ! ne>e/ po9t ( communication ) ,cyprus = c\ri]s f ,con/ant9ople & o!r travell]s1 boa/s "s tw5ty huts & _! inhabitants4 ,!y are b>b>\s & savage to a degree1 & 7 dispos$ to treat ! crew ( ! capta9's boat1 :o 7 look+ = inscriptions among ! tombs ( ! anci5t city1 v r\ghly4 ,"o man ev5 drew 8 yatagan1 :5 ! sudd5 appe>ance ( ! frigate fright5$ !m into polit5ess4 ,june #a/4--,to ! capta91 :o is always e>ne/ly employ$1 "o day is l ano!r4 ,ev5 ,sundays are only di/+ui%$ by ! (fic]s' invitation to him & to myself to d9e 9 ! gun-room1 & by ! clean clo!s ( ! m5 at mu/]2 b ! o!r (fic]s did n =get t to-day 0 an anniv]s>y1 & we all drank ! heal? ( ,"l ,h[e4 ,porto ,cavali]o4--,to ! ea/w>d ( u lay ,isola ,prov5zale1 once )\t d\bt a settlem5t ( ! ,knights ( ,rhodes4 ,:ile ! capta9 exam9$ ,cape ,cavali]o1 ,i w5t1 burn+ ) expectation1 to ! isl&1 n d\bt+ b t ,i %\ld come home ) a load ( inscriptions & arms = ! ,h]alds2 b we f\nd no sort ( rema9s ( ! occupation ( ! ,knights t "o c\ld id5tify4 ,we l&$ ne> a qu>ry ( s(t /one1 9 ! middle ( :i* an upright rock is left /&+1 9 :i* x appe>s t a h]mit _h made 8 cell4 ,!re are crosses cut 9 ! ?ree sides1 & sev]al neat little receptacles = ut5sils4 ,at ! top ( ! hill are =tifications & two *ur*es1 !mselves built ( ! mat]ials ( old] ,greek build+s4 ,clefts 9 ! rock _h be5 c>efully /opp$ & us$ z res]voirs4 ,! walls are built ) an inn] & an out] face ( squ>$ /ones set 9 mort>1 ! int]val be+ fill$ 9 ) *ips & rubble )\t cem5t1 & ! :ole mak+ a ?ickness ( eight or n9e feet4 ,! nor?-we/ side ( ! isl& is also cov]$ ) ru9s1 all ( ! same ,romaic "w4 ,"o 0 ( a *ur* to :i* sev]al rooms 7 atta*$1 & 9 "o ( !m a consid]able tomb--probably ( a sa9t ( ! ,e>ly ,*ur*4 ,?is mu/ at all times h be5 a valuable /ation1 & w\ld be n[4 ,x has "o ( ! be/ & mo/ def5sible h>b\rs on ?is coa/1 & is )9 easy rea* ( supplies4 ,! capta9 _h f>$ no bett] ?an ourselves 9 8 se>* = rema9s ( ! ,knights at ,porto ,cavali]o4 ,"h we fell 9 ) a ,myconiote %ip full ( hadjis on _! return f a visit to ! ,holy ,sepul*re at ,j]usalem4 ,my ,dimitri & ,&rea 7 pigs en\gh to get drunk !re & qu>rel ) ! crew4 ,!y got ! lick+ !y des]v$1 b !y came & compla9$ to me t !y _h be5 ill-us$ & ourselves insult$1 & gave me ! tr\ble ( inquir+ into x4 ,i f\nd1 z ,i _h suspect$1 t :at !y _h got !y _h br\ght ^u !mselves4 ,our next move 0 to ,seleucia or ,selefkeh4 ,we l&$ z ne> z we c\ld to ! end ( ! l9e ( hills on :i* x /&s1 & !n walk$ to x1 n9e miles across ! pla9 at ! foot ( !m4 ,! anci5t t[n is beautifully plac$ at ! side ( a riv]1 ! ,calicadnus4 ,x is p>tly on ! pla9 & p>tly on /eps ( rock :i* rise gradually f x up to a l>ge ca/le ( late date1 :i* has an ,arm5ian inscription ov] ! gate4 ,! aga receiv$ u ) obvi\s ill-hum\r1 :i* p]haps 0 ow+ to 8 be+ unwell1 = he begg$ to see our doctor1 & promis$ to s5d horses = him & = u to ! bea* next day4 ,we look$ ab\t among ! ru9s1 :i* are v ext5sive4 ,!re is a !atre1 a long l9e ( porticoes1 & a temple once conv]t$ to a ,*ri/ian *ur*1 toge!r ) sev]al late *ur*es ( ! date ( ! ru9s on ,prov5zale4 ,we !n w5t back to ! %ip4 ,next day1 no horses = ! doctor or ourselves appe>+ ^u ! bea*1 we />t$ walk+1 & on our arrival at ,selefkeh compla9$4 ,! aga affect$ to blame 8 s]vants4 ,we expect$ at lea/ to return well m\nt$ :5 ! doctor _h se5 ! aga & we _h se5 ! t[n1 b only "o sorry hack 0 prep>$ = ! doctor2 &1 z he refus$ to ride alone1 we made our exit1 walk+ 9 a huff1 & w5t s briskly t a mis]able ,turk :om ! aga _h s5t on a pony1 :ile we _h to walk1 to br+ him back 8 m$ic9e1 c\ld n keep up ) u1 & 0 q out ( sight by ! "t we got to ! bea*4 ,s we w5t abo>d1 r pleas$ at fir/ to deprive ! ungraci\s aga ( 8 m$ic9e2 b ^u reflection we wrote him a %>p laconic note & s5t 8 dose4 ,?is aga1 x is true1 0 n a man ( good "*2 he _h depos$ & murd]$ 8 pr$ecessor1 b z t is ! usual mode ( succession 9 ?is c\ntry1 x ne$ n necess>ily involve disc\rtesy to /rang]s4 ,b ,i mu/ n1 9 ju/ice to ,turks1 =get to m5tion :at occurr$ on our way to ! bea* z a set-(f to ! incivility ( ! aga4 ,we _h _h no?+ to eat all day1 & we 7 n a little %>p-set :51 f9d+ "s peasants 7,turks7 among/ ! corn mak+ _! ev5+ meal1 ) t confid5ce :i* hung] inspires we p\nc$ ^u _! di%es & dev\r$ all t appe>$ be=e u4 ,! poor fell[s 7 n 9 ! lea/ disconc]t$1 b begg$ u to eat1 "o ( !m say+ z he po9t$ to ! corn all r\nd him1 ',!re is pl5ty ( bread4 ,x is ours4' ,!y w\ld take no money1 & :5 we got up to g press$ u to /ay4 ,our he>ts 7 melt$ at _! noble b5evol5ce1 & we _h to agree t all ,turks 7 n brutes4 ,on ! :ole1 ,seleucia is wor? ! tr\ble ( a visit4 ,an imm5se res]voir1 #aej by #ge feet by #cj feet deep1 suppli$ by an aqu$uct1 impress$ me z a v f9e "w4 ,! !atre also1 al?\gh totally ru9$1 is delightfully situat$2 & ! temple1 :i* _h be5 conv]t$ into a *ur*1 is v int]e/+4 ,! ,calicadnus1 al?\gh x is on an ev5 b$1 is a noble riv]1 wide & rapid1 & gives great beauty to ! sc5e4 ,x is unheal?y to dr9k1 :i* acc\nts = ! exi/5ce ( ! great res]voir4 ,x is evid5t t ! population ( ^! c\ntries has decreas$1 & /ill is decreas+4 ,x has n "o-t5? ( :at x c\ld easily support1 & n "o-hundr$? ( :at x has support$ 9 pa/ times4 ,:ile we 7 away at ,selefkeh a bomb>d ,fr5* private] came into ! bay ( ,seleucia 9 pursuit ( a ,turki% boat1 & w\ld h fall5 into our h&s if ! capta9 & pilot _h be5 on bo>d2 b ! necess>y delay be=e ?is c\ld be done enabl$ ! ,fr5*man to get to %all[ wat]1 & ! ,fr$]ik/e5 9 pursuit ran into f\r fa?oms1 & 9 ano!r five m9utes w\ld h be5 agr\nd4 ,s ! bomb>d escap$4#dj ,an*or$ (f ,l+ua di ,bagascia4--,we arriv$ at a ca/le nam$ ,curco1 ) ano!r on a rock outside ! port1 :i* has an ,arm5ian inscription on x4 ,! "o on ! ma9l&1 :i* ,i take to be ! anci5t ,coricus1 is a place ( great /r5g?4 ,!re is a moat ?irty feet wide1 cut 9 solid rock1 to disconnect f ! l&1 & d\ble walls & t[]s4 ,!re are _m ru9s ( mod]n *ur*es & mona/]ies & numb]less s>cophagi ( anci5t & e>ly ,*ri/ian times1 b ! :ole place1 t[n & ca/les1 is absolutely des]t$4 ,we 7 9 ! boat foll[+ ! frigate z %e proce$$ along ! coa/1 :51 p]ceiv+ ru9s on ! coa/1 we disemb>k$1 & f\nd on a /rik+ em95ce a ,cor9?ian temple ( bad execution :i* _h be5 conv]t$ into a *ur*4 ,fur!r on 0 a t[n1 a !atre1 & a va/ colonnade ) a numb] ( important & v p]fect tombs4 ,we _h1 h[ev]1 to retire to ! boat1 = ! inhabitants 7 v ?reat5+1 & _h we be5 few] or %[n any fe> might h f>$ badly4 ,z soon z we 7 (f 9 ! boat we _h a good ba!4 ,at ! ,latmus4--,capta9 ,beau=t s5t two ( 8 (fic]s a%ore to inspect ! long aqu$uct lead+ to ,eleusa1 :i* we c\ld see f ! %ip1 b ! aga1 :o _h at fir/ cons5t$ to _! go+1 )drew 8 p]mission1 & !y _h to give x up4 ,at ,pompeiopolis1 z we _h und]/ood t ! ,turks ( ?is "p ( ! c\ntry 7 p>ticul>ly dang]\s1 ,i took ) me two m>9es z a gu>d to visit ! ru9s4 ,se5 f ! sea !y pres5t$ a truly />tl+ gr&eur4 ,! plan ( ! city is noble 9 ! extreme--"o s+le colonnade passes "r ?r\gh x f ! port to ! gate lead+ out into ! c\ntry1 & =ty ( its columns are /ill /&+4 ,! rema9d]1 mak+ ab\t two hundr$1 lie z !y fell4 ,! t[n 0 def5d$ by a f9e wall ) t[]s to x1 enclos+ a !atre & ! port4 ,! /yle ( ! ar*itecture1 :i* look$ s well f a di/ance1 :5 "o comes to see x close is v bad4 ,pompeiopolis is q des]t$1 b ! ,turks f ! neighb\r+ villages came 91 &1 al?\gh _! appe>ance 0 b>b>\s 9 ! extreme1 !y 7 v civil4 ,i imag9e ! #cf guns & #cej m5 ( ! ,fr$]ik/e5 _h to d ) ?is1 = ,i obs]v$ t ! fur!r we got f ! %ip ! less polite we always f\nd ! ,turks to be4 ,we made sail 9 ! ev5+ & an*or$ (f ,m]s9e1 at ! beg9n+ ( ! great pla9 ( ,t>s\s1 & put a%ore to reconnoitre & pay a visit to ! aga ) a view to gett+ horses to g to ,t>s\s4 ,! aga 0 v civil & promis$ we %\ld h ! horses we ask$ =4 ,9 ! morn+ ! horses 7 ready2 b n[ ! aga1 = :atev] reason1 disc\rag$ our go+ to ,t>s\s1 & told u t s9ce see+ u ye/]day ev5+ he _h receiv$ news ( an outbreak !re1 t a neighb\r+ pa%a _h attack$ ! t[n & all 0 upro> & arms4 ,on reflection 8 acc\nt /ruck u z s improbable t we decid$ at any rate to />t1 & g on accord+ to ! in=mation we %\ld pick up on ! road4 ,we set out1 a l>ge p>ty4 ,! c\ntry 0 a flat1 cov]$ ) corn & 9 x _m reap]s1 male & female1 ! latt] go+ uncov]$ & q unemb>rass$ by /rang]s4 ,_! language & co/ume 7 ,arab1 q unlike any?+ ,i _h se5 be=e1 & !re 7 quantities ( camels ab\t4 ,! ride took u f\r h\rs4 ,f ! inquiries we made f "t to "t x 0 cle> t ! aga's tale _h be5 a d[nright lie4 ,t>s\s lies on ! pla9 ab\t two miles & a half f ! m\nta9s4 ,at ! entrance to x is a hillock ab\t a qu>t] ( a mile long1 :i* comm&s ! t[n2 x 0 includ$ 9 ! anci5t walls1 :i* 7 !n /r5g!n$ by a moat into :i* ! riv] 0 turn$4 ,x is n[ dry1 & ! pres5t t[n has no?+ b a slight wall r\nd x4 ,we pass$ ov] ! old moat & ?r\gh an anci5t gate ( ,roman "w4 ,x _h ?ree ar*es1 b only "o ( !m is /&+1 & ! wall x =m$ ! passage ?r\gh & e o!r antiquity 9 ! t[n has be5 de/roy$ & us$ up = build+ mat]ials4 ,no?+ c\ld exce$ ! surprise ( ! inhabitants at our appe>ance4 ,!y _h nev] se5 ,europeans1 & !y cr[d$ ab\t u 9 su* numb]s t we c\ld ) difficulty move4 ,we w5t to visit ! aga & 7 deta9$1 sitt+ among ! s]vants an h\r & a half be=e we c\ld obta9 an audi5ce4 ,! aga1 !y said1 0 engag$4 ,at la/ we remon/rat$ & got up to g2 :51 to our surprise & indignation1 we saw ! aga sitt+ 9 a room by himself smok+ 8 pipe & q unoccupi$4 ,we w\ld h pass$ ! door _h !y n press$ u 91 s angry 7 we4 ,he 0 sitt+ on a s(a 9 a long :ite ,arab cloak 9 a room t 0 neat] & h&som] ?an x is usual to see 9 ^! c\ntries4 ,he made a slight motion on our com+ 91 b spoke n a ^w1 nor did he deign to answ] ',yh>y' :5 we convey$ to him ! complim5ts ( ! capta94 ,a ,turk :o sat by 8 side ) our firman 9 8 h&s n[ address$ a ,turk :o 0 ) u ) an affectation ( great indignation4 ,he want$ to "k :at c\ld be ! mean+ ( f\r hundr$ m51 :5 only eight m5 7 m5tion$ 9 ! firman--toge!r ) a numb] ( o!r insol5t que/ions1 f :i* ,i ga!r$ t he suspect$ u ( be+ travell+ m]*ants4 ,=tunately1 z ^! rem>ks 7 n address$ to u1 we 7 n b\nd to make any reply1 = if we _h we 7 by ?is "t 9 su* a /ate ( impati5ce ) _! insol5t b>b>ity t x w\ld h>dly h be5 a conciliatory "o4 ,z soon z we c\ld get away1 we m\nt$ our horses aga91 & ?r\gh a ?ick & insult+ rabble w5t out ( ! t[n & homew>ds )\t delay4 ,an old ,turk ( ! aga's p1 :o _h be5 "o ( ! *ief ( our torm5tors1 saw u (f = "s di/ance4 ,to him ,i _h ! satisfaction ( giv+ a piece ( my m9d1 & :5 we came )9 sight ( ! %ip gave him an invitation on bo>d t he might see h[ we treat$ /rang]s4 ,! old rascal w5t home v mu* aba%$ & awe/ruck4 ,we arriv$ on bo>d late1 & well wett$ by com+ ?r\gh ! viol5t surf4 ,! %ip 0 two m days (f ! great pla9 ( ,t>s\s1 mov+ sl[ly 9 a ?ick haze1 & on ! #af? arriv$ (f ,cape ,k>ada%4 ,! capta9 propos$ to me t ,i %\ld g ) ,mr4 ,w+ham to reconnoitre a great lake "o c\ld see f ! %ip4 ,ab\t "o mile ,n4,w4 ( ! cape we turn$ up a deep *annel l a riv] m\?1 except t ! curr5t set inw>ds in/ead ( outw>ds1 & aft] ab\t ?ree-qu>t]s ( a mile ent]$ an app>5tly b\ndless lake4 ,x 0 v %all[1 & be=e long we 7 agr\nd1 aft] :i* ! m5 wad$ & t[$ ! boat4 ,9 ?is fa%ion we w5t sev]al miles till we _h got a fair g5]al notion ( ! size ( ! %eet ( wat]4 ,a deceptive atmosph]ic effect1 due to ! great evaporation1 w\ld hide ! %ore :5 v l[1 s t x pres5t$ ! appe>ance ( a %eet ( wat]4 ,ow+ to ?is ,i _h a bitt] disappo9tm5t4 ,ahead ( u we descri$ f\r beautiful de]1 :i*1 z we approa*$1 fl$ to :at appe>$ to me to be ! i/hmus ( a p59sula4 ,i cri$ to "o ( ! boatm51 :o _h a musket1 to run to ! i/hmus to cut !m (f1 :ile ,i & two o!rs made = ! o!r side1 hop+ to get a %ot at !m4 ,z we got ne>]1 ! fanci$ wat] vani%$1 & ! de]1 a h]d ( t5 beauties1 ran up into ! pla94 ,!y 7 spott$ l fall[ de]1 b ) %ort horns turn+ back l ^? ( a goat4 ,com+ back1 we saw imm5se flocks1 ( p]haps t5 ?\s& at once1 ( :ite /ately birds ab\t z big z swans ,flam+oes4--,,ed41 ! tail beautiful ) r$ fea!rs4 ,!y /ood 9 ranks l soldi]s1 & n[ & aga9 flapp$ _! w+s all at once & %riek$4 ,!re 7 numb]s ( l>ge fi% ab\t1 & ! wat] 0 s %all[ t _! backs /ood out ( x4 ,all ! same1 :5 we tri$ to cat* !m !y 7 too quick = u4 ,! only ?+ we did secure 0 a big turtle4 ,at ,cape ,mallo we w5t a%ore & walk$ ov] ! ru9s4 ,!nce we mov$ d[n ! coa/1 an*or$ eight miles we/ ( ,ayas ,ca/le1 & r[$ on to x4 ,!re are ! rema9s ( ! anci5t t[n ( g to be se51 & a mod]n ,turki% ca/le4 ,:5 we ent]$ ! m\? ( ! port we notic$ t "s ,turks /&+ on a t[] :i* comm&$ x %\t$ & ge/iculat$ to u 9 a ?reat5+ mann]4 ,!y 7 all arm$4 ,i1 h[ev]1 set x d[n to fe> on _! "p1 & recomm5d$ our go+ on4 ,unhappily1 we did s2 & ,i c nev] suffici5tly regret ! "p ,i _h 9 br++ on ! cata/rophe :i* w always make ,ayas a pa9ful recollection4 ,no?+ fur!r occurr$ t ev5+2 we walk$ ab\t1 & :5 x grew d>k w5t abo>d aga94 ,june #bj?4--,we w5t a%ore1 a /rong p>ty1 & scatt]$ 9 v>i\s directions4 ,! capta9 took 8 survey+ in/rum5ts1 a little to ! we/w>ds4 ,ano!r p>ty /ripp$ to ba! & hunt turtles1 ( :i* !re 7 _m2 :ile two o!rs & myself walk$ t[>ds ! ca/le4 ,! jolly-boat1 "u comm& ( a mid%ipman1 "y ,olph]t1 0 to meet u to ! ea/ ( ! ca/le4 ,all at once ,dimitri came runn+ up to u to say t a ,turk _h robb$ "o ( ! p>ty4 ,8 acc\nt 0 t :ile !y 7 ba?+1 ?is ,turk1 attract$ by ! gilt buttons on ! coat ( a petty (fic]1 & tak+ !m = gold1 _h run (f ) x4 ,we walk$ at once to ! bea*1 :]e sev]al ,turks ( ! village 7 collect$4 ,!y tri$ to conciliate u1 say+ x 0 a ,turcoman f ! m\nta9s :o _h be5 ! ?ief1 & t ! coat _h already be5 re/or$4 ,j !n up came ,mr4 ,lane to tell u to get imm$iately to ! boats1 t ! capta9 _h be5 dang]\sly w\nd$ & "y ,olph]t %ot dead4 ,we did z he told u1 & got back to ! %ip2 b my horror & surprise 7 succe$$ by ! mo/ viol5t indignation1 & !re 0 no?+ ,i hop$ = s mu* z t ord]s w\ld be giv5 = a g5]al attack on ! village4 ,z soon z ,i 0 on bo>d ,i w5t to see ,capta9 ,beau=t4 ,8 w\nd1 ,i 0 glad to f9d1 0 n s dang]\s z 0 ?\ght at fir/4 ,! ball _h ent]$ ! fle%y "p ( ! ?igh & _h brok5 ! bone at ! hip4 ,/ill1 x 0 a s]i\s w\nd1 & he 0 a good deal %ak54 ,:5 he he>d ( poor ,olph]t's dea? he bur/ into te>s1 & bitt]ly upbraid$ himself ) hav+ be5 ! cause ( x4 ,x seems t :5 ! b& ( ruffians came to attack 8 boat & began to po9t _! guns1 he1 to fright5 !m1 fir$ ov] _! heads4 ,h]eupon !y all fell d[n 9 abject t]ror1 & ! boats1 pu%+ (f1 got ne>ly cle> ( ! rocks4 ,"o man1 h[ev]1 m resolute ?an ! re/1 ru%$ =w>ds1 & tak+ delib]ate aim f beh9d a rock1 %ot ! capta93 & _h ! re/ ( ! ruffians be5 l him1 ! :ole boat's crew mu/ h be5 sacrific$4 ,z x 01 ! boat 0 out ( range be=e !y recov]$4 ,b hav+ :ett$ _! appetite = blood1 & furi\s at hav+ be5 %ot at1 !y ru%$ (f to :]e "y ,olph]t 0 ) 8 boat & murd]$ him z he 0 pu%+ (f4 ,! condition ,capta9 ,beau=t 0 9 0 s s]i\s1 & 8 conc]n le/ ,olph]t's dea? %\ld h be5 9 any s5se 8 fault1 s pa9ful1 t ,i took ^u myself to tell him a delib]ate falsehood1 = :i* ,i tru/ ,god w =give me4 ,i assur$ him positively t ,olph]t _h be5 already %ot :5 ! natives came to attack 8 7! capta9's7 boat4 ,z he 0 a long way f :]e ,olph]t 01 he _h no means ( kn[+ t x might n h be5 s1 & he 0 ev5tually p]suad$ & 8 m9d v mu* quiet$4 ,at fir/ we _h hop$ t we might be all[$ to seek our own r$ress1 b ! coolness & mod]ation ( ! capta9 7 admirable4 ,:5 "o came to consid]1 x 0 n at all cle> t ! villag]s _h _h any h& 9 x1 & to de/roy ! village w\ld n be to puni% ! (f5d]s4 ,x 0 sure to make all travell+ dang]\s1 if n impossible1 = ! future1 & f9ally x w\ld be ! act ( w> on ! t]ritories ( a fri5dly ,p[]1 b>b>\s z t ,p[] might be4 ,x 0 !re=e settl$ t we %\ld apply = r$ress ?r\gh ! regul> *annel4 ,we cross$ ! bay to ,sc&]oon1 :i* is a mis]able t[n ) a population half ,turks & half ,cypriote ,greeks1 & no resid5t (ficial high] ?an an aga4 ,we did :at we c\ld to fright5 ?is p]son by repres5t+ ! affair to him 9 its mo/ s]i\s light1 at ! same "t call+ 8 att5tion to ! /rict mod]ation ( our conduct1 & our respect = ! au?orities ( ! c\ntry4 ,mean:ile a p]emptory lett] dem&+ rep>ation 0 despat*$ to ! pa%a himself1 :o liv$ "s miles inl&4 ,he return$ an imm$iate reply to ! effect t ,ayas 0 n )9 8 pa%alik1 b 9 t ( 8 neighb\r ! pa%a ( ,adana1 to :om he _h at once writt54 ,mean:ile he promis$ 9 8 "n t e rep>ation %\ld be made4 ,9 our turn we in=m$ him t a ,briti% squadron w\ld be !re 9 fifte5 days to see t ?is 0 done4 ,9 ! cemet]y atta*$ to ! old ,briti% factory & consulate we buri$ poor "y ,olph]t4 ,t5 m>9es 7all ! aga w\ld all[ a%ore7 fir$ a salute ov] him1 & we set up ov] 8 grave a ,greek tomb/one br\ght f "o ( ! cities on ! coa/4 ,consid]+ h[ _m tok5s ( fri5d%ip ,capta9 ,beau=t _h %[n me1 & t he 0 at ! mom5t 9 a dang]\s condition1 ) a risk ( fev] com+ on2 & t1 z he c\ld n enjoy easy famili>ity ) 8 junior (fic]s1 my company might be pleasant to him1 ,i ?\ght ,i ought n to leave him & settl$ to g back ) him to ,malta4 ,two days aft] ,olph]t's fun]al1 on ! #bbnd ,june1 we set sail4 ,on ! #a/ ( ,july we fell 9 ) ! ,salsette1 ,capta9 ,hope1 (f ,khelidonia1 by appo9tm5t4 ,%e 0 to take ,capta9 ,beau=t's report to ! admiral on ! /ation1 & to g on to ,sc&]oon aft]w>ds to see t prop] am5ds 7 made = ! injury done u4 ,,footnote3 #dj ,capta9 ,beau=t seems to h ?\ght t %e 0 a ,ma9iote pirate4 ,8 acc\nt ( ?is episode is wor? read+4 ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,malta--,,attack$ ,,by ,,bili\s ,,fev]--,,sails ,,to ,,pal]mo--,,sege/e--,,leaves ,,= ,,girg5ti--,,immigrant ,,albanians--,,sel9unto--,,travell+ ,,) ,,sicilians-- ,,girg5ti--,,re/ores ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,! ,,giants--,,leaves ,,= ,,syracuse-- ,,occupations ,,9 ,,syracuse--,,sale ,,( ,,! ,,g9a ,,m>bles--,,leaves ,,= ,,zante4 ,we _h no?+ b we/ w9ds1 v unfav\rable = u4 ,melt]n1 z ?is w9d is call$1 foll[s ! rim ( ! coa/ ( ,asia ,m9or1 be+ nor? 9 ! ,ar*ipelago1 we/ along ,k>amania1 & turn+ s\? aga9 d[n ! coa/ ( ,syria4 ,we 7 seldom out ( sight ( l&--fir/ ! m\nta9s ( ,asia1 !n ,rhodes1 ,crete1 ! ,morea1 c4 ,f9ally we rea*$ ,malta on ! #ah? ( ,july1 be+ ! tw5ty-sev5? day s9ce we left ,sc&]oon1 & ! end ( a mon? ( complete idl5ess4 ,i sp5t mo/ ( ! "t 9 ! capta9's cab91 %[+ him all ! att5tion ,i c\ld1 & pr(it+ 9 return v mu* by 8 society & 8 libr>y4 ,to get to ,malta 0 a refre%m5t to our spirits4 ,numb]s ( visitors came at once "u ! /]n to salute ,capta9 ,beau=t1 al?\gh until we _h pratique !y c\ld n come abo>d4 ,! plague is at pres5t 9 ,smyrna1 & qu>ant9e = %ips f !nce usually la/s ?irty or =ty days2 b z we c\ld prove t we _h _h no communication ) any infect$ t[n1 we 7 let (f 9 two days4 ,un=tunately1 f ! mom5t we arriv$ ,i began to feel unwell4 ,all ! "t ,i 0 on ! coa/ ( ,asia ,i _h be5 tak+ viol5t ex]cise & p]spir+ pr(usely1 :ile s9ce we left ,i _h be5 :olly conf9$2 & ! consequ5ce ( ! *ange 0 a viol5t bili\s attack ) fev]4 ,aft] /opp+ 9 b$ ?ree days ,i ?\ght ,i w\ld take a trip to ,sant' ,antonio ) ,gammon1 ! s5ior (fic]2 b ,i got back s ?or\ghly done up t ,i _h to lie up aga91 & 0 ill = ?ree weeks 9 ,?orn's ,hotel4#da ,my *ief rem$ies1 prescrib$ by ,doctors ,/ew>t ( ! ,fr$]ik/e5 & ,all5 ( ! ,malta ,hospital1 7 calomel 9 l>ge quantities & ble$+4 ,e day "o or o!r ( ! (fic]s ( ! ,fr$]ik/e5--,gammon1 ,seym\r1 ,lane1 or ,dodd--came to sit ) me4 ,:5 ,i 0 able to get ab\t aga91 ,i f\nd t ,capta9 ,beau=t _h be5 mov$ to ! h\se ( ,commission] ,l>com1 :]e e possible c>e 0 tak5 ( him4 ,!y 7 a mo/ agreeable & hospitable family--! only "o1 inde$1 9 ,malta4 ,! (fic]s--,g5]al ,oakes1 ,colonel ,phillips1 c4--7 l all g>rison (fic]s4 ,mr4 ,*abot1 ! bank]1 hon\r$ my drafts1 & :5 ,i 0 go+ express$ 8 sorr[ t ,i 0 (f s soon1 z he _h hop$ to h se5 me at 8 h\se4 ,z soon z ev] ,i 0 well en\gh ,i felt eag] to get away f a society s odi\s to me z t ( ,malta1 & hav+ be5 introduc$ f two sep>ate s\rces to ,mr4 ,h>vey1 comm&] ( ,h4,m4 brig ,haughty1 ,i got f him an excell5t passage to ,pal]mo4 ,x took u f ! #bj? ,augu/ to ! #bh?4 ,mr4 ,h>vey himself 0 ill1 & ,i saw little ( him1 b :at ,i did delight$ me4 ,l all sailors1 he 0 v lovable1 & s long z he rema9$ 9 ,pal]mo ,i w5t to him e day4 ,my fir/ day ,i /roll$ ov] ! t[n & deliv]$ my lett]s to ,mr4 ,gibbs & ,mr4 ,fagan4 ,! latt] is an antiqu>ian & a great digg]4 ,he told me1 ,i ?9k1 t he _h dug up ov] two hundr$ /atues 9 8 "t4 ,i call$ on him sev]al times aft]w>ds1 pleas$ ) 8 conv]sation & hop+ to le>n some?+ ( ,sicily f him1 & f\nd him exce$+ly polite4 ,a return ( ! fev] ,i _h 9 ,malta conf9$ me aga9 = a few days1 aft] :i* ,i manag$ to keep x at bay ) pl5ty ( port w9e & b>k4 ,my *ief fri5ds 9 ,pal]mo 7 ,g5]al & ,mrs4 ,campbell1 ,sir ,rob]t ,laurie1 capta9 ( a #gd ly+ "h1 ,"l ,william ,b5t9ck1 g5]alissimo ( ! ,briti% army ( occupation 9 ,sicily1 & ,fagan4 ,aft] a =tnight 9 ,pal]mo ,i />t$ on a trip to ,sege/e4 ,i c\ld n b be v mu* /ruck by ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! ri*ness ( ,sicily1 & ! desolation ( ,greece "u ,turki% rule4 ,mahomet ,,ii4 desir$ t on 8 tomb %\ld be writt5 t _h he liv$ he propos$ 9 ! ensu+ summ] to conqu] '! beautiful ,italy & ! isl& ( ,rhodes4' ,sicily mu/ h foll[$1 & ,i pictur$ 9 my m9d ! l&scape z x w\ld !n h look$4 ,a few ru9$ mosques w\ld h suppli$ ! place ( ! spl5did *ur*es & mona/]ies1 & a wret*$ khan & a few l[ huts ! ri* t[ns ( ,sala & ,p>t9ico4 ,! temple ( ,sege/e is ! l>ge/ ,i h se51 b x looks z if x _h nev] be5 f9i%$4 ,! /yle ( workman%ip is good & exact1 b z f> inf]ior to ,a!nian execution z its r\gh /one is to ,p5tilican m>ble4 ,! turn ( ! capital is v inf]ior 9 delicacy to ,a!nian examples1 & !re is no h&some f9i% to ! ceil+ ( ! p]i/yle1 :i* 0 probably ( pla/] l g9a4 ,! circul> s9k+ cut 9 ! pl9? to receive ! column1 leav+ a space all r\nd to give a play1 x is said1 9 case ( e>?quake1 is c]ta9ly curi\s if t 0 ! purpose ( x4 ,no?+ :atev] rema9s ( ! cella4 ,9 ! ev5+ we return$ to ,alcamo & next day breakfa/$ ) ,colonel ,burke1 :o is 9 comm& ( a regim5t ( #a1djj f9e m51 all ,pi$montese & ,italians1 n ,sicilians4 ,"o f9ds ,engli%m5 9 comm& ev]y:]e4 ,return$ to ,pal]mo4 ,my fame _h spread 9 my abs5ce1 & on my return ,i f\nd my table cov]$ ) c>ds & invitations--! mo/ conspicu\s be+ f ,g5]al ,macf>lane & ,"l ,montgom]y4 ,! palaces ( ! ,sicilian nobles are exasp]at+ly pret5ti\s & ta/eless2 t ( ,palagonia is an un=getable nightm>e4 ,?\gh a p>adise comp>$ ) ,greece1 ,i f9d ,sicily see?+ ) discont5t2 & 7 x n = ,"l ,w4 ,b5t9ck1 to :om ! p look up z ! only hone/ man among/ ! au?orities1 !re w\ld be an insurrection4 ,t5 days lat] ,i set out on horseback = ,girg5ti4 ,on ! second day ,i turn$ aside f ,villa ,frat to visit "o ( ! ,greek villages s mu* talk$ ( & s misrepres5t$4 ,9 ,pal]mo ,i 0 told t ! villag]s are "s ( ! anci5t ,greek settl]s1 :o rema9 s un*ang$ t !y /ill we> s&als & are almo/ pagans4 ,9 reality !y are ,albanians1 :o emigrat$ 9 ! sixte5? c5tury :5 ! oppression ( ! ,turks 0 specially sev]e 9 _! c\ntry1 & came 9 b&s to v>i\s po9ts ( ,sicily4 ,mezzojuso is "o ( _! settlem5ts1 & has ab\t #b1jjj inhabitants4 ,! situation1 ab\t two miles (f ! road f ,villa ,frat to ,alc>a1 is on ! side ( a m\nta9 & v beautiful4 ,i met "s goodhum\r$ peasants :o 7 ready to tell me all !y knew4 ,!y talk ,albanian among/ !mselves1 & !y readily und]/ood ! few words ( x :i* ,i & my s]vant c\ld speak4 ,! explanation ( ! report ( _! be+ almo/ pagans is t !y reta9 ! ,greek ritual1 al?\gh !y h *ang$ ! alt> to ! ,ca?olic =m & ackn[l$ge ! supremacy ( ! ,pope4 ,ov] ! alt> is a ,greek inscription1 :i* ,i read1 to ! surprise ( ^? :o att5d$ me4 ,! prie/s pres]ve ! ,greek co/ume1 ! bead cap1 hair1 c4 ,/4 ,nicolas1 ! ,greek sa9t p> excell5ce1 is a conspicu\s figure 9 ! ,*ur*4 ,:at a pity ,i _h n ) me a little ( ! e>? ,i took f ! %r9e ( ! sa9t at ,myra 9 ,asia ,m9or6 ,x w\ld h be5 an acceptable pres5t to ! prie/4 ,i saw none ( ! wom51 b ,i 0 told !y we> a peculi> co/ume2 & at _! communion1 in/ead ( ! ho/1 z 9 ,roman ,ca?olic *ur*es1 a piece ( clo? is held up4 ,/>t$ = ! temples ( ,sel9unto1 accompani$ by ,don ,ignazio1 ! son ( my ho/1 ,don ,gaetano4 ,we took ! road t[>ds ! sea1 & pass+ ?r\gh ,siciliana & turn+ inl& came 9 ! ev5+ to ,cattolica4 ,"h we add$ to our p>ty a mo/ ent]ta9+ companion1 ,don ,raffaelle ,politi1 a pa9t]1 n v excell5t 9 8 art1 ?\gh "o ( ! be/ 9 ,sicily1 b full ( tal5ts & ( hum\r4 ,he 0 /ay+ at ! "t 9 ! h\se ( a c]ta9 m>quis1 = :om he _h be5 pa9t+ two ceil+s4 ,we w5t to see him !re1 & f\nd him ) ! m>*ese1 sitt+ ov] a greasy table surr\nd$ by a company ( na/y fell[s1 su* z 9 ,engl& "o might see 9 a %opkeep]'s p>l\r4 ,no sort ( civility or hospitality 0 %[n u4 ,on ! o!r h&1 a fri5d & equal ( ,don ,raffaelle's receiv$ u v k9dly4 ,he & a company ( tradesm5 :o _h come ov] to a fair :i* 0 be+ held 9 ,cattolica1 & _h ( c\rse br\ght _! guit>s ) !m1 ent]ta9$ u be=e supp] 9 ! loc&a4 ,next day we pass$ by ! anci5t city ( ,h]aclia1 ( :i*1 h[ev]1 !re are v trifl+ rema9s1 to ,sciacca1 :]e 9 ! m>ket-place we saw dead meat--meat ( animals t _h di$ ( disease ow+ to ! great dr\ght ?is ye>1 :i* has kill$ a great _m cattle--be+ sold to ! poor at a *eap rate4 ,travell+ ) ,sicilians ,i fell into _! cu/oms1 & in/ead ( look+ out = an hotel ,i w5t ) !m into a caf :]e we ate & drank4 ,! cafeti]e1 to %[ 8 lib]ality1 9 p\r+ out lets ! cup ov]fl[ until ! sauc] also is full1 aft] :i* he br+s spirits & cig>s--all cu/oms new to me4 ,arriv$ 9 a /orm at ,montefeice1 wet ?r\gh4 ,my fri5ds slept on a mattress1 & ,i1 :o 0 accu/om$ to x1 slept on ! floor4 ,no?+ c be m solemn ?an ! magnific5t rema9s ( ! ?ree temples ( ,sel9us1 b ,i _h n _m h\rs to /udy !m4 ,x is cle> t e>?quake 0 ! cause ( _! de/ruction1 & ,i guess f ! diff]5ce 9 pres]vation betwe5 ! p>ts :i* fell & 7 cov]$ & protect$1 & ! condition ( ^? :i* rema9 /&+1 t x may h occurr$ ab\t ! eigh? or n9? c5tury4 ,we w5t ov] twice f ,montefeice1 ea* "t return+ 9 ! ev5+2 & :5 we got home1 h[ diff]5tly we sp5t our ev5+s f ! ord9>y way ,engli%m5 d6 ,_h !y be5 my companions we %\ld h curs$ ! f>e & lodg+1 & %\ld h laid ourselves d[n grumbl+ to pass a t$i\s & uncom=table night4 ,in/ead ( t1 ) ^! ,sicilians1 z soon z ! dem&s ( hung] 7 satisfi$1 at ! s\nd ( a guit> 9 ! /reets1 we salli$ out & jo9$ ! s]5ad]s1 /opp$ "u ! w9d[s ( "s fair "o we did n "k1 & ,don ,raffaelle1 :o is a p]fect ma/] ( ! guit> & ravi%$ ! by/&]s1 play$ & sang ) mu* ta/e a numb] ( exce$+ly pretty melodies4 ,if ?is 0 n en\gh = ! ev5+1 we sat & told /ories4 ,at ,cattolica we arriv$ s late t e in* ( ! loc&a 0 occupi$4 ,we did n c>e to di/urb our fri5d ( ! previ\s occasion1 ,don ,giuseppe1 & ! m>*ese's hospitality _h be5 s grudg+ly (f]$ t we 7 too pr\d to accept x1 & s we s\ght consolation by go+ ab\t ! /reets ) a guit> till we 7 tir$ ( x1 & !n tak+ horse aga92 b be=e go+ f> we 7 s we>y t we got (f "u a tree1 sat d[n1 & wait$ = dawn to light u back to ,girg5ti4 ,aft] my return to ,girg5ti1 ,i rema9$ !re till ! #ad? ( ,novemb]1 apply+ myself ) close att5tion & inf9ite pleasure to attempt+ to recon/ruct ! ,temple ( ,jupit] ,olympius4 ,! exam9ation ( ! /ones & ! cont9ual ex]cise ( +5uity kept me v busy1 & at ! end ! successful re/oration ( ! temple gave me a pleasure :i* 0 only to be surpass$ by t ( orig9ally conceiv+ ! design4 ,my days w5t by 9 great peace & cont5t4 ,i liv$ ) ! family ( ,don ,gaetano ,/]l9i1 & :5 ,i got accu/om$ to !m ,i le>nt to l !m4 ,! bawl+ ( ! s]vants1 ! op5 doors1 ! dirt & disord] ( a ,sicilian h\sehold came aft] a "t to be matt]s ( c\rse to me & pass$ unnotic$4 ,b !re came an ,engli% f9e g5tleman1 by ! "n ( ,cuss9s1 to sp5d two days "h1 :o 0 n s philosophical & made himself odi\s by prote/+4 ,:5 anyone came into or w5t out ( ! room1 ! doors1 :i* nev] else turn$ on _! h+es1 mu/ be %ut2 ! w9d[s1 t p]haps lack$ two or ?ree panes1 mu/ be clos$2 ! %utt]s bolt$2 he c\ld n eat ! food nor dr9k ! w9e4 ,a creature s ref9$ is z unpleasant an object to a b>b>ian z ! latt] is to him1 & we pray$ = 8 dep>ture4 ,my f9e fri5d 0 sup]cili\s to me1 b polite 9 a l(ty fa%ion1 & took a patronis+ int]e/ 9 :at ,i 0 do+4 ,w\ld ,i give him "s notes & a sket*8 ,at fir/ ,i said ,i w\ld1 b 8 mann] disgu/$ me1 s t ,i f9ally s5t him only ! notes4 ,he want$ ! sket* to fl\ri% at ,pal]mo4 ,9 ! la/ few days ( my /ay my fame got ab\t4 ,! ,caff dei ,nobili1 ! bi%op & all1 he>d ) a/oni%m5t t ,i _h unravell$ ! puzzle1 & t all ! morsels compos+ ! giants 7 /ill exi/+ & c\ld be put toge!r aga94 ,a dignit>y ( ! ,*ur*1 7,don87 ,c&ion ,panetti]i1 s5t me a message to say t if ,i w\ld m>k ! /ones & give directions = ! sett+ up ( "o ( ! giants1 he w\ld und]take ! exp5se ( do+ x4 ,i 0 tempt$ by ?is (f] & ! imm$iate notoriety x w\ld give me1 & agre$ & complet$ my sket* z f> z x c\ld be c>ri$ & took x to him4 ,x 0 copi$ imm$iately1 & ) my "n app5d$ z ! au?or1 s5t to ,pal]mo4 ,!n ,i w5t ov] ! fragm5ts ) ,raffaelle ,politi & m>k$ ! /ones correspond+ ) ! numb]s 9 ! design4 ,don ,gaetano c\ld n conta9 8 indignation at my suff]+ ! results ( s mu* lab\r to be laun*$ into ! _w z x 7 semi-anonym\sly1 in/ead ( 9 a book duly writt5 & publi%$ by myself1 ! au?or4 ,f ! mom5t ,i h&$ ov] my draw+ to ,politi to copy !re 0 no peace betwe5 u4 ,i c\ld n help be+ gratifi$ at ! int]e/ he took 9 my success1 & my feel+ = him 0 %>p5$ by ! s5tim5t ) :i* 8 fair daught] _h inspir$ me1 :i* 0 s /rong t x made me feel ! necessity ( go+ away1 & yet made me weep l a noodle :5 ,i did4 ,b ,i _h f\nd my rew>d 9 ! pleasure ( solv+ ! puzzle1 & ?\gh ,i lik$ ! notoriety1 x 0 n wor? giv+ oneself mu* tr\ble ab\t4 ,i left ,girg5ti ) ,don ,ignazio ,sala1 son-9-law ( ,/]l9i1 = ,alicata1 & ! consul himself saw me z f> z ! ,riv] ,agrigas4 ,on our left 7 _m sulphur works1 :i* are s injuri\s to vegetation t !re is a law 9 =ce t !y %all n "w f ! "t ! corn beg9s to get up till aft] ! h>ve/4 ,f ,palma ! road lies along ! sea%ore1 & !re at e mile & a half are wat*-t[]s1 or1 fail+ ^!1 /raw huts = ! coa/gu>d to give w>n+ ( ,b>b>y corsairs4 ,until lately ?is coa/ 0 infe/$ by !m4 ,_! desc5ts 7 small1 & !y c>ri$ (f only a few m5 or cattle2 b !re 0 once a desp]ate action ne> ,alicata1 9 :i* ! inhabitants turn$ out1 head$ by ! prie/1 & captur$ ! :ole p>ty ( tw5ty-five :o _h l&$4 ,! prison]s 7 s5t by ,pal]mo to ,algi]s to be ex*ang$4 ,alicata to ,s]ra ,nuova4 ,s]ra ,nuova to ,c>talag]one4 ,we _h to cross a riv] on ! way1 ! banks ( :i* 7 high & ! riv] swoll5 by ! ra91 & "o mule ) baggage & man roll$ "r into x4 ,! night got v d>k1 & ,i really ?\ght we %\ld h to /op on ! bank all night or break our necks1 b by help ( repeat$ invocations indiff]5tly to ,m>ia ,sanctissima & ,santo ,diavolone we got across safely at la/4 ,f ,c>talag]one by ,m9eo to ,l5t9i1 & s to ,syracuse4 ,al?\gh comp>$ ) ! anci5t t[n x is t9y & conf9$ entirely to ! isl& ( ,ortygia1 ! mod]n ,syracuse has consid]able =tifications4 ,we _h to pass ?r\gh f\r gates & two dykes be=e we got inside4 ,at "o gate ! gu>d want$ to take our arms1 till ,i remon/rat$ on ! insult to ! ,briti% nation1 & !y let me pass4 ,b1 !n1 if !y did n mean to en=ce x1 h[ ridicul\s ev] to make su* a regulation6 ,z soon z ,i 0 settl$ ,i despat*$ a lett] my fri5d ,raffaelle ,politi _h giv5 me to 8 fa!r1 :o came at once1 (f]$ me e civility1 & rema9$ my fa/ fri5d ?r\gh\t my /ay4 ,cock]ell sp5t ?ree mon?s--,decemb]1 ,janu>y1 & ,febru>y--9 ,syracuse4 ,= "o ?+ 8 heal? _h be5 sev]ely %ak5 by ! grave illness he _h _h 9 ,malta1 & he ne$$ re/4 ,x seems to h made a turn+-po9t 9 8 travels4 ,hi!rto 8 lett]s home _h be5 full ( joy\s anticipations ( gett+ back to ,engl&1 & ) re/less en]gy he _h endeav\r$ to cram ! utmo/ into 8 "t be=e do+ t1 & settl+ into h>ness z an ar*itect4 ,see+ s _m c\ntries & go+ ?r\gh s _m vicissitudes _h1 h[ev]1 weak5$ ! tie & he c\ld n[ make himself at home any:]e4 ,= ano!r ?+1 a ma9 object ( 8 travels--p]haps ! ma9 object--0 a visit to ,italy1 z = practical purposes ,italian ar*itecture 0 ! be/ wor? /udy+4 ,b ! w> ) ,france cont9u+1 ,italy rema9$ clos$ indef9itely to a ,briti% subject4 ,s = sev]al ye>s !re are no m ref]5ces to com+ home4 ,a la/ reason = /opp+ :]e he 01 0 t ! wea!r 0 dete/able4 ,x 0 ! t]rible w9t] ( ! retreat f ,mosc[4 ,= =ty days1 he says1 x nev] fail$ to ra91 sn[1 or hail4 ,8 "t 0 *iefly sp5t 9 prep>+ ! draw+s = ! plates ( ! great contemplat$ book on g9a & ,phigaleia4 ,besides ?is1 he seems to h drawn 9 ! museum1 & to h read a good deal2 he le>nt ! art ( cutt+ cameos1 & ev5 execut$ "s2 & f9ally1 fir$ by ! p]=mances ( 8 fri5d ,politi1 he sp5t two h\rs a day 9 le>n+ to play ! guit>4 ,he probably nev] c>ri$ ?is accompli%m5t v f> & ab&on$ x on leav+ ,sicily1 = ,i nev] recollect ev5 he>+ x allud$ to4 ,! "t pass$ v quietly4 ,he _h "s fri5ds among ! ,sicilians1 besides ! ,politis--,don ,pietro ,satallia1 ! ,conte ,buc*i]i1 & "o ,engli% acqua9tance1 ,lieut5ant ,w9t]1 adjutant ( ! t[n & =t1 :o _h a nice ,engli% wife & l>ge family1 ) :om he sp5t occasional ev5+s4 ,= ! mo/ "p1 h[ev]1 he sp5t 8 ev5+s /udy+ 9 8 lodg+s1 & on ! :ole1 he says1 ,i c say ( ,syracuse :at ,i wi% ,i c\ld say ( all ! places ,i ev] /opp$ 93 ,i d n rep5t ( ! "t ,i sp5t !re4 ,dur+ ! latt] "p ( 8 /ay1 :5 ! wea!r grew less sev]e1 he 0 a good deal occupi$ 9 exam9+ ! walls ( anci5t ,syracuse1 & ! =tress ( ,labdalum4 ,a lett] receiv$ at ab\t ?is "t f ,l9ckh records ! dea? ( ! little ,skye t]ri] ,fop :i* my fa!r _h br\ght ) him f ,engl&4 ,:5 he left ,a!ns to g ) ,messrs4 ,nor?1 ,d\glas1 & ,fo/] to ,crete1 en r\te = ,egypt1 he left ! dog beh9d 9 *>ge ( a c]ta9 ,nicolo1 :o seems to h gone ) ,bron/$t & ,l9ckh n long aft] on ! exp$ition !y und]took to ,zea 9 ,decemb] #ahaa4444 ,dans la lettre g>e je v\s ai crit le sort malheureux de votre pauvre ,fope1 qui a f9i ses j\rs misrablem5t et en gr&e fam9e ,zea4 ,bron/$t et moi n\s lui avons encore prolong son tri/e de/9 p\r quelques j\rs1 c> n\s l'avons tr\v m\rant dans un rav9 entre la ville de ,zea et le port4 ,vraim5t ce ,nicolo e/ un tre infme et malicieux4 ,v\s savez que n\s lui avons confisqu la bague du ,platon qu'il a porte aussitt que v\s autres tes p>tis d',a?nes p\r ,egypte4 ,he _h /ol5 x1 z he did lat] v>i\s articles f ,hughes & ,p>k]1 q4v4 ,comme n\s avons quitt l'isle de ,zea1 il faisait une banque de ph>aon p\r pill] les ,zeotes4 ,he _h kept 9 communication ) 8 fri5ds 9 ,greece1 & especially ) ,gropius1 to :om he _h writt5 repeat$ly on ! subject ( ! sale ( ! g9a ,m>bles1 b x 0 n till ,m>* t he c\ld h he>d ( ! disa/r\s issue4 ,:at _h happ5$ 0 ?is4 ,x w be rememb]$ t :ile ! /atues !mselves _h be5 convey$ = security to ,malta1 ! sale ( !m _h be5 adv]tis$ to take place 9 ,zante on ,novemb] #a1 #ahab4 ,:5 ! day arriv$ only two bidd]s pres5t$ !mselves 9 ! sale room1 "o be>+ an (f] f ! ,fr5* ,gov]nm5t1 & ,h]r ,wagn] ano!r f ,pr9ce ,l\is ( ,bav>ia4 ,! ,briti% ,museum _h s5t out a ,mr4 ,coombe ) ample p[]s to buy = ,engl&1 b he nev] turn$ up4 ,he _h rea*$ ,malta 9 good "t1 b hav+ und]/ood f ,mr4 ,mc,gill1 :o 0 pro tem4 ag5t = ,gropius1 t ! sale w\ld take place :]e ! m>bles 71 took x = grant$ t he knew all ab\t x & !re /ay$1 wait+ = ! auctione] to come4 ,mean:ile ! sale came (f at ,zante4 ,! ,fr5* (f] ( #afj1jjj francs prov$ to be altoge!r too conditional to be accept$1 & ! sculptures 7 knock$ d[n to ,pr9ce ,l\is = #aj1jjj sequ9s4 ,x 0 sugge/$ aft]w>ds t ,gropius _h be5 brib$ by ,wagn] to keep ! ,engli% p>ties 9 ! d>k1 b x 0 nev] prov$4 ,:at is cle> is t if ,gropius _h kept 8 ag5t1 ,mc,gill1 prop]ly in=m$ z to ! place ( sale1 ,coombe w\ld h be5 able to bid & ! g9a /atues w\ld be 9 ! ,briti% ,museum n[4 ,cock]ell at once set out f ,syracuse = ,zante4 ,b he f\nd t :5 he jo9$ !re 0 really no?+ to be done4 ,he at fir/ tri$ to upset ! contract1 b on reflection he f\nd himself oblig$ 9 hon\r & 9 law to abide by ! action ( _! ag5t4 ,a new agreem5t 0 drawn up & sign$1 confirm+ ! =m] & engag+ to petition ! ,briti% ,gov]nm5t = leave to export ! sculptures f ,malta4 ,at home 9 ,engl& ! deepe/ disappo9tm5t 0 felt by ^? :o _h int]e/$ !mselves 9 ! acquisition1 & a prote/ 0 =w>d$ by ,mr4 ,s4 ,p4 ,cock]ell ?r\gh ,mr4 ,hamilton to ! ,gov]nm5t1 petition+ t no p]mission to remove ! m>bles f ,malta %\ld be grant$1 & dem&+ a new sale on ! gr\nd ( improp] proc$ure 9 ! fir/4 ,9 ! end1 h[ev]1 x 0 n f\nd possible to conte/ ! validity ( ! sale1 & !y 7 f9ally deliv]$ to ! ,pr9ce ( ,bav>ia 9 #ahad4 ,,footnote3 #da ,n[ ! ,htel de ,prov5ce4 ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,a!ns--,,! ,,excavation ,,( ,,m>bles ,,at ,,bass--,,bron/$t',s ,,mi%ap--,,fate ,,( ,,! ,,cor9?ian ,,capital ,,( ,,bass--,,sev]e ,,illness--,,/ackelb]g',s ,,mi%ap--,,trip ,,to ,,albania ,,) ,,hughes ,,& ,,p>k]--,,!bes--,,livadia--,,! ,,five ,,emiss>ies--,,/ate ,,( ,,! ,,c\ntry--,,m]*ants ,,( ,,livadia--,,delphi-- ,,salona--,,galaxidi--,,patras--,,previs a--,,nicopolis--,,arta--,,! ,,plague--,,jan9a4 ,! fate ( ! g9a ,m>bles be+ n[ practically settl$1 ,fo/]1 :o 0 engag$ to make a m>riage v displeas+ to 8 family1 ) a ,levant9e1 left = ,smyrna1 :ile ,hall]1 ,l9ckh1 & ,cock]ell w5t to ,a!ns4 ,! latt] _h n be5 9 ,greece s9ce ,novemb] #ahaa4 ,9 ! int]val ! exp$ition to dig up ! sculptures he _h discov]$ at ,bass _h be5 !re & _h successfully accompli%$ _! purpose1 ! p>ty consi/+ ( ,hall]1 ,fo/]1 ,l9ckh1 ,/ackelb]g1 ,gropius1 ,bron/$t1 & an ,engli% travell]1 ,mr4 ,leigh4#db ,!y _h provid$ !mselves ) p[]s f ,con/ant9ople suffici5t to ov]come ! resi/ance ( ! local au?orities1 & aft] _m difficulties _h succe$$ 9 br++ away ! sculptures ) "o exception1 to :i* ,i w pres5tly ref]4 ,! excavations 7 c>ri$ out 9 ,june1 ,july1 & ,augu/1 :ile my fa!r 0 abs5t at ,malta & 9 ,sicily4 ,nev]!less1 z he _h discov]$ _! exi/5ce x 0 und]/ood t he 0 to be a p>ticipator 9 any sculptures t %\ld be dis9t]r$4 ,! p>ty ( excavators e/abli%$ !mselves !re = ne>ly ?ree mon?s1 build+ huts ( b\ghs all r\nd ! temple1 mak+ almo/ a city1 :i* !y *ri/5$ ,francopolis4 ,!y _h frequ5tly f fifty to eighty m5 at "w at a "t1 a b& ( ,arcadian music to ent]ta9 !m1 & 9 ! ev5+ aft] "w1 :ile ! lamb 0 roa/+ on a wood5 spit1 !y danc$4 ,h[ev]1 if ,cock]ell lo/ ! pleasure1 he escap$ ! fev] f :i* !y all suff]$ desp]ately--& no wond]1 aft] liv+ su* a life 9 su* a climate4 ,x 0 dur+ ?is exp$ition t a mis=tune befell ,bron/$t :i*1 al?\gh x _h an elem5t ( absurdity 9 x1 0 v s]i\s to ! victim4 ,:ile ! "w at ,bass 0 proce$+ he left 8 companions to take a trip into ,ma9a4 ,be=e />t+ he wrote = himself a lett] ( introduction to ,capta9 ,murz9os purport+ to be f my fa!r1 & w\ld h pres5t$ x2 b1 z ill-luck w\ld h x1 on ! #bj? ( ,augu/1 on ! road betwe5 ,sp>ta & ,kalamata1 he fell into ! h&s ( a b& ( eight robb]s4 ,und]/&+ !m to be ,ma9iotes1 & suppos+ all ,ma9iotes to be fri5ds1 he tri$ to save 8 prop]ty by say+ t he _h a lett] ) him to ,capta9 ,murz9os2 b ! robb]s repli$3 ,oh1 h y8 ,if we _h ,murz9os "h we w\ld play him twice ! pranks we are play+ y1 & sp>$ no?+4 ,!y decamp$ ) 8 money1 8 wat*1 8 r+s1 a collection ( antique co9s1 all t he _h 9 _! eyes wor? tak+1 to ! tune1 z he consid]$1 ( #hjjl4 7#aa1jjj pia/res =tes d',espagne71 leav+ him disconsolate 9 ! d>k to collect 8 scatt]$ manuscripts1 :i* !y _h reject$ ) ! contemptu\s words3 ,greek3 ,k>tasia e9ai4 ,d5 ta /o*asom5 7,pap]s6 we don't look at !m47 ,9 ! d>kness & confusion aft] ! dep>ture ( ! robb]s he manag$ to lose "s ( ^! z well4 ,! poor travell] return$ q =lorn to ,phigaleia4 ,aft] ?is1 ,l9ckh writes 9 8 delici\s ,fr5*3 ,bron/$t p>c\rt la ,more en longue et trav]s p\r *]g] ses h>des p]tus p> les voleurs4 ,le drle de corps a beauc\p d'esprance1 p>ce que le consul ,paul lui a recomm5d =tem5t au n\veau ,pas*a dans une lett] qui a ett enveloppe en vil\rs r\ge4 ,su* a lett]1 b\nd 9 r$ velvet1 0 e/eem$ p>ticul>ly urg5t1 b he obta9$ no r$ress :atev]1 nor ev] saw aga9 any ( ses h>des1 except ! r+ :i* _h be5 giv5 him by 8 fiance1 ,koes' si/]4 ,?is 0 recov]$ = him by ,/ackelb]g on a j\rney :i* he took ?r\gh ,ma9a1 :5 he saw x expos$ = sale 9 ! h\se ( "o ( ! capta9s or *iefta9s ( ! c\ntry1 toge!r ) ! wat*1 purse1 & sev]al o!r articles :i* _h be5 ,bron/$t's2 b ! prices ask$ 7 too exorbitant = him to ransom any b ?is1 :i* he knew ! late own] _h highly priz$4 ,! piece ( sculpture ,i h j m5tion$1 :i* ! explor]s ( ,phigaleia fail$ to br+ away1 0 ! capital ( ! s+le ,cor9?ian column ( ! int]ior ( ! temple4 ,x w be rememb]$ by ^? :o h read my fa!r's "w on ! subject1 t all ! columns ( ! int]ior 7 ( ! ,ionic ord] ) "o exception1 :i* 0 ,cor9?ian1 & :i* /ood 9 ! c5tre ( "o end ( ! cella4 ,! capital ( ?is ,cor9?ian column 0 ( ! v f9e/ workman%ip2 & al?\gh ! volutes _h be5 brok5 (f1 mu* ( x 0 /ill well pres]v$1 & ! p>ty ( excavators took x ) !m to ! coa/ = emb>cation ) ! re/4 ,!re are figures ( x by ,/ackelb]g 9 8 book1 & by ,fo/] 9 a draw+ 9 ! ,phigaleian ,room ( ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,veli ,pa%a1 ! ,gov]nor ( ! ,morea1 _h sanction$ ! explorations on ! und]/&+ t he %\ld h half pr(its2 b :5 he _h se5 ! sculptures he 0 s disappo9t$ t !y 7 n gold or silv]1 & s little und]/ood !m1 t he took ! w>riors "u %ields = tortoises1 all[+ t z su* !y 7 r well done4 ,x *anc$ t at ?is mom5t news rea*$ him t he _h be5 sup]s$$ 9 8 comm&1 & n ?9k+ mu* ( !m1 & eag] to get :at he c\ld1 he accept$ #djjl4 z 8 %>e ( ! spoil & sanction$ ! exportation ( ! m>bles4 ,! local ar*ons1 h[ev]1 put e imp$im5t !y c\ld 9 ! way by fom5t+ a /rike among ! port]s :i* caus$ delays1 & by giv+ in=mation to ! incom+ pa%a1 :o s5t d[n troops to /op ! emb>cation4 ,ev]y?+ _h be5 load$ except ! capital 9 "q1 :i* 0 m pond]\s ?an ! re/1 & 0 /ill /&+ half 9 & half out ( ! wat] :5 ! troops came up4 ,! boat _h to put (f )\t x1 & ! travell]s _h ! mortification ( see+ x hack$ to pieces by ! ,turks 9 _! fury at hav+ be5 foil$4 ,! volute ( "o ( ! ,ionic columns pres5t$ by my fa!r to ! ,briti% ,museum is ! only fragm5t ( any ( ! int]ior capitals ( ! temple rema9+4 ,he br\ght x away ) him on 81 ! fir/1 visit4 ,to return to :]e ,i left my fa!r be=e ?is digression4 ,z ,i said1 aft] ! sale ( ! g9a ,m>bles1 ,hall] & he came to ,a!ns1 :]e1 f9d+ ! summ] v hot 9 ! t[n1 !y w5t to live at ,padis*a or ,sadis*a1 n f> outside ! t[n1 & set e>ne/ly to "w ^u ! draw+s = ! book on g9a & ,phigaleia4 ,all w5t on quietly till on ! #bbnd ( ,augu/ ,cock]ell 0 attack$ by a malignant bili\s fev]1 :i* br\ght him to dea?'s door3 at lea/1 ei!r ! illness or ! rem$ies did4 ,! doctor1 ,abraham1 ! fir/ 9 ,a!ns1 ?\ght x mu/ be yell[ fev]1 gave him up1 & fe>+ infection = himself1 refus$ to att5d him aft] ! fir/ few days4 ,x 0 ev5 :isp]$ t x might be ! plague1 = ! enorm\s swell+ ( ! gl&s 0 n unlike x4 ,b ,hall] w\ld li/5 to no c\nsels ( despair1 & refus$ to leave 8 fri5d4 ,! k9d ,madame ,masson1 too1 ! aunt ( ! ,misses ,makri1 came out f ,a!ns1 & ! two nurs$ him ) ceaseless devotion4 ,hall] nev] left 8 b$side1 night or day1 = ! fir/ mon?4 ,! vice-consul1 he>+ t ! suff]] 0 z good z dead1 came to take away 8 keys & put seals ^u 8 prop]ty1 & 0 only prev5t$ by ,hall] by ma9 =ce4 ,! same fai?ful fri5d compell$ ! doctor to d 8 duty4 ,! fir/ hav+ des]t$ 8 pati5t1 a second 0 call$ 9 & kept att5tive by ?reats & p]suasion4 ,! me?ods ( m$ic9e 7 inconceivably b>b>\s4 ,ble$+ 0 ! great rem$y 9 fev]1 & calomel ! alt]native4 ,:5 ! pati5t _h be5 br\ght by ?is treatm5t s l[ t 8 he>t 0 ?\ght to h /opp$1 live pigeons 7 cut 9 half & ! reek+ portions appli$ to 8 brea/ to re/ore ! vital heat4 ,m$ic9e fail+1 spells 7 believ$ 94 ,madame ,masson1 ?\gh describ$ z "o ( ! fir/ p]sonages 9 ,a!ns1 c\ld nei!r read nor write1 & 0 grossly ignorant4 ,%e _h a great fai? 9 spells2 & ,hall]1 fe>+ t 9 ! feeble condition ( ! pati5t %e might commit "s folly1 kept a /rict wat* ^u h]4 ,"o day1 h[ev]1 9 8 abs5ce1 :5 my fa!r 0 suff]+ agonies f 8 gl&s1 %e took ! opportunity to tie r\nd 8 neck a *>m ( p>ticul> pot5cy4 ,x 0 a little bag conta9+ "s res91 "s pit*1 a lock ( hair1 & two pap]s1 ea* inscrib$ ) ! figure ( a pyramid & o!r symbols drawn ) a p54 ,!y ev5 got s f> z to speak ( 8 burial1 & x 0 settl$ t x %\ld be 9 ! ,!seum1 :]e "o ,tw$dle1 an ,engli%man1 & o!r =eign]s _h be5 int]r$1 & :]e ,hall] himself 0 laid n _m ye>s aft]4 ,! *ur*es 7 kept light$ night & day = 8 b5efit1 & 8 nurse attribut$ 8 f9al recov]y entirely to ! int]cession ( ,panagia ,ca/riotissa1 or ,our ,lady ( ! ,acropolis4 ,at l5g?1 aft] long hov]+ betwe5 life & dea?1 8 robu/ con/itution c>ri$ him ?r\gh1 & t[>ds ! end ( ,septemb] ! doctor advis$ 8 be+ remov$ to ,a!ns4 ,he 0 c>ri$ ?i!r 9 a litt] & set d[n at ,madame ,masson's1 :]e he 0 h5ce=? to live4 ,be=e ?is episode 0 fairly conclud$ or my fa!r _h progress$ f> 9 convalesc5ce1 a new cause ( agitation arose4 ,notice 0 receiv$ t ,b>on ,/ackelb]g 0 9 ! h&s ( pirates4 ,he _h be5 = a t\r 9 ,asia ,m9or1 & 0 on 8 way back betwe5 ,con/ant9ople & ,a!ns1 :5 9 cross+ ! ,gulf ( ,volo he 0 tak54 ,8 case 0 ev5 m deplorable ?an ,bron/$t's1 = he n only lo/ :atev] he _h ) him1 & saw 8 draw+s torn to pieces 9 %e] malice be=e 8 v eyes1 b ! miscreants claim$ an enorm\s ransom1 am\nt+ to ab\t #c1jjjl41 & s5t a notice to 8 fri5ds 9 ,a!ns to ! effect t ! money mu/ be =w>d$ promptly or portions ( ! prison] w\ld be s5t z rem9d]s4 ,mean:ile he _h to live ) ! pirates1 & 8 exp]i5ces 7 no laugh+ matt]4 ,! ruffians us$ to %[ him hide\s in/rum5ts ( torture to fright5 him into pay+ a high] ransom4 ,!y made him sleep 9 ! op5 air1 :i* half kill$ him ) fev]2 & z !y _h n[h]e to keep him :5 !y w5t on _! m>aud+ exp$itions1 he _h to g ) !m4 ,on "o occasion he saw a vessel run agr\nd to avoid capture1 & ! sailors clamb] up ! rocks to escape4 ,an old man :o c\ld n foll[ fa/ en\gh 0 br\ght 9 to be sold z a slave4 ,! re/ got away1 & "o ( ! pirates1 9 8 fury at be+ elud$1 9 ord] to slake 8 ?ir/ = blood seiz$ on a wret*$ goat t 0 graz+ by him & cut its ?roat4 ,sev]al weeks ( ?is sort ( company & exposure left poor ,/ackelb]g m dead ?an alive4 ,8 rescue1 :i* 0 manag$ ) great diplomacy & a spl5did disreg>d = 8 own safety by ,b>on ,hall]1 0 f9ally effect$ at a co/ ( ab\t #ejjl4 ,a ,mr4 ,hughes1 9 company ) ,mr4 ,p>k]1 :om he 0 be>lead+1 arriv$ 9 ,a!ns :5 my fa!r 0 recov]+2 & ab\t ! la/ week ( ,novemb]1 at _! invitation1 tempt$ by ! opportunity ( travell+ ) a ,t>t> & a buyulurdi--t is to say1 9 security & ) z little discom=t z possible--he cons5t$ to jo9 9 a t\r to ,albania4 ,i %all n give a detail$ acc\nt ( ?is voyage4 ,x 0 ov] gr\nd ev]yone has read ab\t4 ,x result$ 9 no discov]ies & few adv5tures1 & anyone :o is curi\s ab\t x w f9d x fully describ$ 9 ,hughes's book4 ,g5]al ,davies1 qu>t]ma/]-g5]al to ! ,briti% =ces 9 ! ,m$it]ranean1 0 to =m "o ( ! p>ty4 ,we set out f ,a!ns on ,novemb] #bi?1 a l>ge cavalcade4 ,two ( my fri5ds1 ?\gh !y _h n yet le>nt t to travel 9 ^! c\ntries "o mu/ sacrifice a little p]sonal com=t1 7 o!rwise agreeable companions1 g5tlemanlike & goodhum\r$2 b ,i e>ly began to =esee tr\ble ) ! ,g5]al4 ,he 0 "o ( ^? p :o ?9k ev]yone :o _c speak ,engli% mu/ be ei!r an assass9 or a rogue1 & 0 m unreasonable1 unju/1 & unaccommodat+ ?an any ,engli%man ,i ev] met1 odi\s z _m ( !m make !mselves abroad4 ,x ra9$ heavily1 b ev]yone tri$ to be gay except ! g5]al1 :o damn$ gloomily1 "r & left4 ,we w5t ov] an int]e/+ c\ntry1 b z x 0 all 9 ! cl\ds we enjoy$ ! sc5]y nei!r ( ,p>nes nor ( ,phyl4 ,our way 0 beguil$ by ! s++ ( "s ( ! p>ty4 ,! ,t>t> especially gave pro(s ( a good voice1 a v desirable quality 9 a ,greek companion4 ,! recollection ( ! sc5]y ( any "p ( ,greece or ,asia ,m9or is b\nd up ) t ( ! *e]ful r\ndelays ( ! guides z "o rides ?r\gh ! m\nta9s1 or ! s(t melodi\s song ( ! ,anatolian pla9s4 ,x is ! *>act]i/ic ?+ ( ,ea/]n travel4 ,aft] ab\t ?ree h\rs 9 ! cl\ds we got d[n into ,boeotia & saw bel[ u a spl5did c\ntry ( m\nta91 pla91 & sea4 ,our ,t>t> _h gone on be=e u to ,!bes1 s t :5 we arriv$ at our cona*i 7lodg+7 x 0 all ready = u4 ,x 0 z well1 = ! wea!r _h giv5 ,hughes a return ( 8 fev]1 & he _h to lie 9 b$4 ,p>k] & ,i rode next morn+ )\t ! o!rs to ,plata4 ,x has an admirable situation1 & its walls are 9 bett] pres]vation & m int]e/+ & v5]able ?an any ,i h se5 yet4 ,we c\ld f9d no?+ int]e/+ at ,!bes1 s z soon z ,hughes 0 bett] we all set out = ,livadia4 ,z we 7 pass+ ?r\gh ! hills t sep>ate ! respective pla9s ( ^! two t[ns a pleasant co9cid5ce occurr$4 ,we fell 9 ) an ,engli% travell]1 a ,mr4 ,yonge1 :o 0 a fri5d ( ,hughes1 & 0 be>+ a lett] ( introduction to me4 ,aft] greet+s & complim5ts he gave u ! late/ ,european news1 viz4 ( ! gr& defeat ( ! ,fr5* at ,leipsic4 ,glori\s news inde$6 ,hughes be+ laid up aga9 at ,livadia & ! ,g5]al impracticable1 ,p>k] & ,i made excursions !nce to ! ,cave ( ,trophonius1 ,or*om5us1 & ,topolias1 ! po9t f :i* "o visits ! five emiss>ies ( ! ,lake ,copais4 ,^! la/ /ruck me z p]haps ! mo/ a/oni%+ "w ( antiquity kn[n to me4 ,two are /ill runn+1 b ! fir/1 ?ird1 & fif? are q dry4 ,at ! entrances ! m\nta9 has be5 cut to a face ( ?irty or =ty feet high at ! m\? & n a tool-m>k visible1 s !y look l ! "w ( nature4 ,i want$ to g to ! o!r side ( ! ridge to see ! exits1 b our guide assur$ me t x 0 too dang]\s1 because ( ! pirates :o lie 9 ! m\nta9 9 ! daytime & w\ld probably cat* u4 ,poor ,/ackelb]g's mis=tune 0 too rec5t a w>n+ to be neglect$1 s ,i gave x up4 ,all ?is c\ntry1 broadly speak+1 is q uncultivat$1 & inhabit$ by imm5se h]ds att5d$ by :ole families liv+ 9 huts & w&]+1 accord+ to ! pa/ure & season1 9 p>ties ( p]haps tw5ty ) horses & mules4 ,!y are n ,turcomans1 su* z ,i saw 9 ,asia1 b are call$ ,vlaki & speak ,greek4 ,"o c imag9e no?+ m picturesque ?an !y are & ! m\nta9s !y live 94 ,our qu>t]s dur+ our ?ree nights out _h be5 ( ! r\ghe/1 & :5 ,p>k] & ,i got back to ,livadia our :ole ev5+ 0 sp5t 9 ! ba?1 ridd+ ourselves ( ! fleas & dirt we _h be5 liv+ 94 ,hughes 0 f\nd to be bett]1 & ! ,g5]al 7?ank goodness67 tir$ out & gone (f to ,salona4 ,he 0 an odi\s individual--got drunk e day ( our abs5ce--& we 7 well rid ( him4 ,we _h br\ght ) u f ,a!ns lett]s ( introduction to ! pr9cipal ,greek m]*ants1 primates ( ,livadia1 ,messrs4 ,logo!ti4 ,on ! fir/ day ( our arrival !y _h come v civilly to call ^u u4 ,n[ t we 7 back f our excursion we return$ ! visit4 ,! ,greeks appe> to possess great weal? & influ5ce "h1 :]eas ! ,turks are b few 9 ! place1 & ^? !re are speak ,greek & to "s ext5t h ,greek mann]s4 ,:5 we came into ! ,logo!tis' h\se we f\nd "s actually argu+ a po9t--a ?+ n to be ?\ght ( among ,turks else:]e3 ! affectation ( pride among ,ori5tals1 s /upefy+ to !mselves & s exasp]at+ to o!rs1 w\ld =bid x4 ,:5 we came 9 !y rose to g1 leav+ ,signor ,nicola to att5d to 8 =eign gue/s4 ,our ho/ gave u a /rik+ in/ance ( ! devices us$ by well-to-d ,greeks to conceal _! weal? f ! rapaci\s ,gov]nm5t4 ,he at once l$ u out ( ! room he _h receiv$ u 9 at ! head ( ! fir/ l&+1 :i* 0 res]v$ = ! reception ( ,turks & 0 v simple1 into 8 own ap>tm5ts1 :i* 7 exce$+ly spl5did4 ,!re 9 "o corn] ( ! room 0 ! beautiful ,logo!t9a1 wife ( a ,logo!ti nephew1 9 b$4 ,h] fa!r w5t up to h] :5 he came 9 & %e kiss$ 8 h&4 ,"o might h ?\ght h] be+ 9 b$ emb>rass+1 b n at all2 we all sat d[n & /opp$ ) !m = an h\r4 ,no "o ei!r said or did mu*1 = ^? :o talk$ _h little to say1 & _m said no?+4 ,:5 ,logo!ti w5t home we accompani$ him1 & v gr& he 01 ) a l>ge /ick 9 8 h& & five or six p]sons escort+ him--q 9 ! spl5did /yle ( ! anci5t ,greeks4 ,x s happ5$ t 9 ! morn+ :ile on a visit to ! bey1 or waiwode1 we he>d ! read+ ( a firman br++ ! news ( ! tak+ ( ,belgrade by ! ,turks4 ,dur+ ! read+ ! primates all /ood up1 & :5 x 0 conclud$ all exclaim$3 ',?anks to ,god = ?is success6 ,may our ,sultan live6' ,9 ! ev5+ we w5t to d9e ) ,logo!ti4 ,!re 7 a ,corfiote doctor & sev]al o!r ,greeks4 ,our talk 0 ( _! hopes ( emancipation1 z x always is :5 "o is 9 company ) ,greeks1 ) ! inevitable ref]5ces to ,leonidas & ! ,hell5es4 ,our ho/s & ! o!r ,greeks /ruck me z heavi] & m ,boeotian 9 appe>ance ?an ! ,greeks ,i 0 accu/om$ to1 b also m poli%$4 ,! ,corfiote1 ( c\rse1 0 talkative & ignorant3 !y always are4 ,we ate an imm5se quantity ( turkeys--roa/1 boil$1 ha%$ & aga9 roa/$--f[ls & all sorts ( p\ltry dress$ 9 all sorts ( ways1 & we drank a great deal ( bad w9e 9 toa/s to ,k+ ,george1 success to ! ,greeks1 c4 ,z soon z ,hughes c\ld move we w5t on f ,livadia by ,*ronea to ,ca/ri1#dc ! anci5t ,delphi4 ,until )9 ! la/ few ye>s ! region we 7 n[ 9 0 impassable ow+ to robb]s1 b ,ali ,pa%a's tyranny has at any rate ! m]it ( an excell5t zabete or police1 s t x is n[ fairly safe4 ,! sc5]y among ! m\nta9s is spl5did4 ,our visit to ,ca/ri 0 n a long "o4 ,except ! ,ca/alian spr+ & ! /adium1 "o c\ld make out no?+ ( ! anci5t topography4 ,! :ole site is cov]$ ) walls runn+ 9 e sort ( direction1 possibly to keep ! e>? f slipp+ d[n ! hill4 ,9 ! ev5+ we got to ,crisso4 ,a buyulurdi su* z we c>ri$ conf]s ! mo/ arbitr>y rights2 b x 0 n until ! protoc>o _h be5 cudgell$ by our ,t>t> t we 7 able to procure a lodg+1 a tol]ably good "o1 9 ! h\se ( ! papa4 ,i reflect$ h[ wret*$ is ! position ( ! ,greeks1 & h[ ung5]\s ( u ,engli%m5 to live at _! exp5se & assi/ 9 ! g5]al oppression2 b ,i 0 too pleas$ to get a lodg+ = ! night to act ^u x4 ,f ,crisso we w5t to ,salona1 & "h x became necess>y to settle ^u our fur!r r\te4 ,:5 we came to look into x1 x appe>$ t ! plague is rag+ 9 e t[n on our way by ,nepacto & ,missalonghi ?r\gh tolia4 ,moreov]1 ! roads are r\gh & infe/$ by robb]s1 ! horses bad1 & 9 fact ! be/ way to get to ,albania seem$ to be to g by sea4 ,?is 0 settl$ ^u accord+ly1 & we />t$ to d x4 ,f ,salona to ! port is a two h\rs' ride4 ,!nce we set sail 9 a felucca4 ,! sea 0 runn+ v high1 ! w9d 0 9 our tee?1 & ?\gh we got to ,galaxidi at la/1 x 0 n )\t consid]able p]il4 ,i h _h a good _m adv5tures1 b ,i d n ?9k ,i 0 ev] 9 great] dang] ?an dur+ ^? f\r h\rs ( sail+ 9 t wea!r 9 ! d>k1 & ,i ?ank$ ,god he>tily :5 ,i f\nd myself a%ore4 ,! only lodg+ we c\ld get 0 9 ! gu>d-h\se1 a fil?y magaz9e s alive ) bugs t aft] a fir/ failure ,i gave up all idea ( go+ to sleep1 & sat up ) ,p>k] smok+ till morn+4 ,x 0 out ( ! "q go+ to look = o!r qu>t]s4 ,! c\ntry is s infe/$ ) robb]s1 :o ?9k no?+ ev5 ( p5etrat+ into ! t[n & c>ry+ (f a primate or s1 t arriv+ late & knock+ at doors we %\ld h be5 tak5 = brig&s & answ]$ by pi/ol %ots f ! w9d[s4 ,9 ! morn+ our buyulurdi /ood u 9 good /ead4 ,) its help we 7 able to get "s good f[ls & a %eep1 bread & rice4 ,!n go+ to ! %ore we made a b>ga9 to be tak5 to ,previsa 9 a boat4 ,! voyage 0 fairly prosp]\s4 ,! second day we l&$ at ,patras1 & he>d ! news ( ! gr& defeat ( ! ,fr5* confirm$4 ,we set out aga9 at night & got becalm$1 & ) difficulty rea*$ a small port1 ! ,scr(1 beyond ! flat at ! m\? ( ! ,a*el\s4 ,"h 0 a scampa-via f ,santa ,maura1 & o!r boats1 & we ent]$ ) "s trepidation le/ we %\ld be tak5 = pirates & fir$ ^u4 ,"h we 7 deta9$ sev]al days by /ormy wea!r4 ,gett+ away we pass$ ! m\? ( ! ,a*el\s1 & tri$ to f9d ei!r ( two excell5t ports1 ,petala & ,dragonise2 b z !y 7 n m>k$ 9 our bad *>ts we fail$1 & 7 f9ally oblig$ to put into a creek n f> f ,santa ,maura1 & lay !re ! great] "p ( ! night1 till ! w9d blew u (f aga9 to sea4 ,at daylight we an*or$ 9 ! %all[ port ( ,santa ,maura4 ,! wea!r aga9 deta9$ u "s days1 till we ) "s difficulty got across to ,previsa4 ,"h ! h>b\r is a f9e "o1 b too %all[ to admit l>ge vessels1 & ) an awkw>d b>4 ,! %ore is all desolation & mis]y1 ) "o exception1 ! palace ( ! vizi]1 :i* is spl5did4 ,! f\ndations on ! side t[>ds ! sea are all ( /ones f ,actium & ! neighb\r+ ,san ,pietro1 ! anci5t ,nicopolis4 ,9 ,v5etian days ,previsa _h no =tifications4 ,n[ ! pa%a has made x q a /rong place1 ) sev]al =ts & a deep dit* across ! i/hmus1 ?\gh ! cannon1 to be sure--:i* are old ,engli% ones ( all sorts & sizes--are 9 ! wor/ possible ord]1 _! c>riages ill-design$1 & n[ rott5 z well4 ,! population has fall5 f #af1jjj1 to #e1jjj at ! outside1 mo/ly ,turks4 ,we w5t ( c\rse to ,nicopolis4 ,! ru9s are mo/ int]e/+4 ,!re are ! !atre1 ! ba?s1 ! odeum1 & ! walls ( ! city1 all 9 fair pres]vation & mo/ in/ructive3 ! latt] especially1 z an example ( anci5t =tification4 ,an aqu$uct1 :i* is imm5sely high1 br\ght wat] f n9e h\rs (f4 ,we w5t f ,previsa1 9 a scampa-via belong+ to ! vizi]1 to ,salona1 ! port = ,arta4 ,x consi/s ( only two h\ses1 ! ,cu/oms h\se & ! s]ai ( ! vizi]4 ,9 ! latt] we got lodg+s = ! night1 & bespoke "s return+ c>avan horses to c>ry u to ,arta4 ,! road1 #be feet wide1 is "o :i* has be5 lately made = ! vizi] by a wret*$ ,cephaloniote eng9e] across o!rwise impassable flats4 ,x is n f9i%$ yet2 #hjj to #a1jjj m5 are /ill at "w ^u x4 ,!re is no d\bt t ?is road & ! canal f ,arta to ,previsa1 z well z ! de/ruction ( ! ,suliotes1 :o made ?is "p ( ! _w impassable to travell]s )\t a l>ge escort1 are public b5efits to be put to ,ali ,pa%a's cr$it4 ,arta is a fl\ri%+ place "u ! special eye ( ! vizi]4 ,! baza> is consid]able1 & !re is e sign ( indu/ry4 ,we left x ab\t midday4 ,! ice 0 ?ick on ! pools & ! road h>d ) fro/4 ,pass+ ! bridge1 we got aga9 on to ! vizi]'s new road4 ,! ,cephaloniote sup]9t5d5t1 :o 0 v desir\s t we %\ld express to ! vizi] great admiration = ! "w1 0 assidu\s 9 do+ ! hon\rs ( x4 ,aft] v>i\s /oppages1 at la/1 at sev5 o'clock1 ne>ly froz51 we rea*$ ! khan ( ,five ,wells4 ,a r\s+ fire we made to w>m ourselves by 0 no use1 = x smok$ s intol]ably t x drove u out aga9 to walk ab\t 9 ! cold till ! room 0 cle>4 ,our only di/raction 0 a ,t>t> we fell 9 ) :o _h lately be5 to ,con/ant9ople by l&1 & 8 acc\nt ( ! j\rney is en\gh to make "o %udd]4 ,he pass$ ?r\gh no less ?an n9ete5 vilayets1 or t[ns1 9 :i* ! plague 0 rag+4 ,at ,adrianople ! smell ( ! dead 0 s great t 8 companion fell ill4 ,at ! next place he ask$ at ! po/ if !re 0 any pe/4 ',a great deal1 ,god be prais$1' 0 ! reply4 ,at ano!r t[n1 9 answ] to inquiries he 0 told 'half ! t[n is dead or fl$1 b ,god is great4' ,:at a mis]able c\ntry6 ,next day1 rid+ along a pav$ way1 we got to ,jan9a or ,joann9a1 ! capital ( ,ali ,pa%a4 ,! fir/ c\p d'oeil ( ! great t[n & ! lake is c]ta9ly impressive1 b n s mu* s z ,i _h expect$4 ,once inside ! t[n ! ?+ t /ruck me mo/ 0 ! spl5did dress ( all ranks & ! %abby appe>ance we ,franks pres5t$4 ,we made = ! h\se ( our m9i/]1 ,george ,=e/i1 ) :om we d9$1 & !re met ,colonel ,*ur*1 j arriv$ f ,durazzo4 ,,footnotes3 #db ,gr&fa!r ( ! pres5t ,"l ,leigh4 #dc ,by a conv5tion ) ! ,greek ,gov]nm5t made 9 #ahia1 ! ,fr5* ,gov]nm5t obta9$ p[] to buy out ! inhabitants ( ,ca/ri & remove ! village 9 ord] to excavate ! site4 ,! anci5t topography is n[ well asc]ta9$4 ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,ali ,,pa%a--,,psallida--,,euphrosyne--,,mukh t>--,,/>ts ,,= ,a ,,trip ,,to ,,suli--,,cassiopeia--,,unable ,,to ,,=d ,,riv]--,,turns ,,back ,,to ,,jan9a--,,leaves ,,to ,,return ,,to ,,a!ns--,,crosses ,,! ,,p9dus ,,?r\gh ,,! ,,sn[--,,malaka%--,a ,,robb]--,,meteora--,,turki% ,,rule--,,! ,,mona/]y--,,by ,,trikhala1 ,,ph]sala1 ,,zituni1 ,,!rmopyl ,,& ,,livadia ,,to ,,a!ns4 ,next day1 z ! vizi] wi%$ to see u1 & we ( c\rse to see him1 ,=e/i took u to ! palace he 0 liv+ 9 = ! mom5t4 ,he has no less ?an eight 9 ! t[n4 ,?is "o is h&some1 b ! plan is z usual ill-contriv$1 & !re 0 mu* less magnific5ce ?an ,i _h expect$4 ,we 7 fir/ l$ into ! upp] ap>tm5ts to await 8 leisure1 & f\nd !re a numb] ( f9e y\?s1 n v spl5didly dress$4 ,aft] half an h\r ( wait+ we 7 l$ into a l[ room1 9 ! corn] ( :i* sat ?is extraord9>y man4 ,he welcom$ u politely & said he hop$ we _h _h a good j\rney & w\ld l ,jan9a1 & desir$ t if !re 0 any?+ we lack$ we w\ld m5tion x1 = t he reg>d$ u z 8 *ildr51 & 8 h\se & family 7 at our disposal4 ,he next ask$ if any ( u spoke ,greek2 & he>+ t ,i did1 ask$ me :5 ,i _h le>nt x1 & h[ long ,i _h rema9$ 9 ,a!ns4 ,!n1 obs]v+ t ,hughes 0 ne> ! fire1 he ord]$ 9 a scre5 9 ! %ape ( a l>ge vessel ( wat]1 say+ t "y m5 did n require fire1 only old m52 & 9 say+ ?is he laugh$ ) s mu* bonhomie1 8 mann] 0 s mild & pat]nal & s *>m+ 9 its air ( k9dness & p]fect op5ness1 t ,i1 rememb]+ ! blood-curdl+ /ories told ( him1 c\ld h>dly believe my eyes4 ,f9ally1 he said he hop$ to improve our acqua9tance1 & begg$ u to /ay on4 ,we1 h[ev]1 b[$ ourselves out4 ,! numb] & ri*ness ( ! %ops is surpris+1 & ! bu/le ( bus9ess is su* z ,i h n se5 s9ce leav+ ,con/ant9ople4 ,we und]/ood t :5 ! vizi] fir/ settl$ at ,jan9a 9 '#hg--t is1 tw5ty-sev5 ye>s ago--!re 7 b five or six %ops 9 ! place3 n[ !re are m ?an #b1jjj4 ,! city has imm5sely increas$1 & we pass$ ?r\gh sev]al qu>t]s ( ! t[n :i* are entirely new4 ,! =tresses on ! promontory into ! lake are ( ! vizi]'s build+4 ,he has always an e/abli%m5t ( #c1jjj soldi]s1 #ajj ,t>t>s 7! ,sultan himself has b #bjj71 a p>k ( artill]y pres5t$ him by ! ,engli%1 & ,g]man & o!r ,fr5* artill]ym54 ,we seem to h suppli$ him also ) arms & ammunition 9 8 w>s ) ,suli & o!r p>ts ( ,epirus4 ,p]haps x is n mu* to our hon\r to h assi/$ a tyrant 9 dispossess+ or ext]m9at+ ! lawful own]s ( ! soil1 :o only f\ght = _! own lib]ty2 b "o mu/ rememb] t1 picturesque z !y 7 & desp]ately z !y f\ght1 !y 7 no?+ b robb]s & freeboot]s & ! sc\rge ( ! c\ntry4 ,we pass$ ! #f? ( ,janu>y ) ,psallida1 :o is ma/] ( a s*ool 9 ,jan9a4 ,he is1 = ?is c\ntry1 a le>n$ man4 ,besides ,greek1 he speaks ,lat9 & v bad ,italian1 b z f> z mann]s g he is a m]e b>b>ian4 ,f him ,i _h an acc\nt ( ! ,g>diki massacre4#dd ,i occupi$ a wet ?ree days 9 draw+ an int]ior view ( a kiosk ( ! vizi]'s at ! ,be%key ,g>d5s at ! nor? end ( ! t[n4 ,!n ,i got a co/ume & drew ! figures 94 ,psallida d9$ ) u "o day & ent]ta9$ u ) an acc\nt ( ! fair & frail ,euphrosyne1 :o 0 a celebrity "h4 ,h] fate 0 made ! subject ( a ballad pres]v$ 9 ,leslie4 ,! /ory is c]ta9ly an awful trag$y4 ,%e 0 ( good family & m>ri$ to a respectable man4 ,)\t possess+ m education ?an is usual ) ,greek ladies %e _h1 besides h] great beauty1 a natural wit :i*1 ) a good deal ( love ( admiration1 soon attract$ r\nd h] a ho/ ( admir]s1 & %e became a reign+ beauty4 ,mukht>1 ! son ( ,ali1 :o is a dissolute fell[1 0 attract$ by h]1 &1 cutt+ out 8 competitors1 became h] ackn[l$g$ lov]4 ,8 wife1 :om he entirely neglect$ = 8 new passion1 0 a daught] ( ! ,vizi] ( ,b]at1 ^: fri5d%ip ,ali 0 at t "t p>ticul>ly anxi\s to cultivate2 & :5 %e compla9$ to h] fa!r-9-law ( 8 son's conduct1 he 7,ali7 det]m9$ to put a /op to x4 ,at ! head ( 8 gu>d he bur/ at midnight into ! room ( ,euphrosyne1 & aft] call+ h] ! s$uc] ( 8 son & o!r names1 he =c$ h] to give up :atev] pres5ts he _h made h]1 & _h h] l$ (f to prison ) h] maid4 ,next day1 9 ord] to make a t]rify+ example to *eck ! immorality ( ! t[n 9 g5]al & 8 son 9 especial1 he _h n9e o!r wom5 ( kn[n bad "* arre/$1 & !y & ,euphrosyne 7 l$ to ! br9k ( ! precipice ov] ! lake on :i* ! =tress /&s4 ,h] fai?ful maid refus$ to des]t h]1 & %e & ,euphrosyne1 l9k$ 9 ea* o!r's arms1 leapt toge!r d[n ! fatal rock1 z did all ! o!rs4 ,mukht> has nev] =gott5 8 atta*m5t or =giv5 8 fa!r1 or ev5 se5 8 wife aga91 & f hav+ be5 a gay & frank y\? he has become gloomy & f]oci\s )\t be+ less dissolute ?an be=e4 ,! c\rt he keeps is a sad blackgu>d affair1 a great contra/ to ! au/]e sobriety ( 8 fa!r's4 ,we call$ 9 ! ev5+ 7,janu>y #ad7 to take leave ( ,ali ,pa%a4 ,he 0 on t day 9 ! ,palace ( ! ,=tress at ! extremity ( ! rock ov] ! lake4 ,we pass$ ?r\gh ! long gall]y describ$ by ,byron1 & into a l[ ant]oom1 f :i* we ent]$ a v h&some ap>tm5t1 v w>m ) a l>ge fire 9 x1 & ) crimson s(as trimm$ ) gold lace4 ,!re 0 ,ali1 to-day a truly ,ori5tal figure4 ,he _h a velvet cap1 a prodigi\s f9e cloak2 he 0 smok+ a long ,p]sian pipe1 & held a book 9 8 h&4 ,=e/i says he did ?is on purpose to %[ u he c\ld read4 ,hang+ beside him 0 a small gun magnific5tly set ) diamonds1 & a p[d]-horn2 on 8 "r h& also 0 a fea!r fan4 ,to 8 left 0 a w9d[ look+ into ! c\rty>d1 9 :i* !y 7 play+ at ! dj]id1 & 9 :i* n9e horses /ood te!r$ 9 _! saddles & bridles1 z ?\gh ready = in/ant use4 ,i am told ?is is a piece ( =m or etiquette4 ,at fir/ 8 reception seem$ less cordial ?an be=e1 :e!r by design or no1 & he took v little notice ( u4 ,he %[$ u "s lead5 pieces ( money1 & a ,spani% co9 j f\nd by "s c\ntry p1 & ask$ u :at !y 74 ,!n he said he wi%$ he _h a coat ( beav] su* z he _h se5 on ! ,danube4 ,he ask$ ,p>k] :e!r he _h a "m & bro!rs1 & :5 he he>d he 0 ! only son he said x 0 a s9 t he %\ld leave 8 "m4 ,:y did n he /ay at home8 ,on ,janu>y #ae we w5t to call on ,mukht> ,pa%a4 ,we f\nd him r\gh1 op51 & goodhum\r$1 )\t any ( ! inimitable grace ( 8 fa!r1 :i* makes ev]y?+ ,ali says agreeable1 h[ev] trivial ! subject may be4 ,mukht>'s talk 0 flat4 ,he 0 v fond ( sport--7 we8 ,x 0 v hot 9 summ] at ,trikhala4 ,he _h kill$ s & s _m birds2 !re 7 loose wom5 at ,drami%u%2 x 0 a small place1 b he w\ld s5d a man to see t we 7 prop]ly accommodat$2 & s on--v civil & r dull4 ,he smok$ a ,p]sian pipe br\ght him by a beautiful boy v ri*ly dress$1 ) 8 hair c>efully comb$1 & ano!r br\ght him c(fee2 :ile c(fee & pipes 7 br\ght to u by p>ticul>ly ugly ones4 ,on ! s(a beside him 7 laid out a numb] ( snuff-boxes1 me*anical s++ birds1 & ?+s ( t sort4 ,! s]ai itself 0 h&some 9 po9t ( exp5se1 b 9 ! mis]able ta/e n[ 9 vogue 9 ,con/ant9ople4 ,! decoration repres5t$ pa9t$ battle-pieces1 sieges1 fights betwe5 ,turks & ,cossacks1 wild m51 & abom9ations ( t sort2 :ile 9 ! c5tre ( ! p$im5t is a pa%a surr\nd$ by 8 gu>d1 & 9 front ( !m a c\ple ( ,greeks j hang$1 z a suitable ornam5t = ! palace ( a despot4 ,on ! #af? we set out e>ly = an excursion to ,cassiopeia & ,suli1 across ! f9e op5 field beh9d ,jan9a1 pa/ ! village ( ,kap%isda1 ov] a l[ *a9 ( hills s\?-we/ ( ,jan9a4 ,!n1 aft] a climb ( ov] an h\r1 we ent]$ a pass1 & pres5tly saw ,drami%u% 9 front1 on ! side ( a high m\nta94 ,cassiopeia is on a g5tle height 9 ! middle ( a valley4 ,! situation is beautiful1 & ! !atre ! l>ge/ & be/ pres]v$ ,i h se5 9 ,greece4 ,next morn+ we dismiss$ ,mukht> ,pa%a's man :o _h escort$ u s f>1 & w5t on s\?-we/w>ds along ! edge ( ! valley ( ,cassiopeia4 ,z x grew n>r[] we climb$ a ridge :i* ov]hung an awful dep?1 w5t ov] a high m\nta91 & rea*$ ,b>eatis1 a small village 9 a pass ) a s]ai ( ,ali ,pa%a's1 9 :i* he liv$ = a l5g? ( "t dur+ ! w> ( ,suli4 ,?ree & a half h\rs fur!r on we came to ,t]bis5a1 ! fir/ village ( ,suli4 ,x _h be5 p\r+ all day1 & we 7 n only wet & cold :5 we arriv$ b ! hovel we got z a lodg+ let 9 ! wat] ev]y:]e1 & "h1 huddl$ 9 ! drie/ corn] we c\ld f9d1 we _h to sleep & sp5d ! next day4 ,on ! #ai? ! wea!r 0 f9e aga91 & we w5t on hop+ to f9d ! riv] =dable1 b :5 we got to ! bank we f\nd x rapid & deep4 ,"o ( our ,turks1 aft] a good deal ( boa/+1 plung$ 91 & 9 an in/ant sank1 & ! torr5t 0 c>ry+ him & 8 horse fl\nd]+ away4 ,ano!r ( 8 bro!r ,turks1 see+ him c>ri$ d[n1 call$ l\dly on ,allah1 & /rok$ 8 be>d 9 great tribulation1 b )\t /irr+ a /ump4 ,9 ano!r m9ute ! man w\ld h be5 dr[n$1 b our s]vant ,antonetti1 :o 0 b a ,*ri/ian1 v pluckily ran 9 & claw$ him out4 ,! poor boa/] 0 already s5seless :5 we got him to l&4 ,we took him back to ,d]vi%9a1 & gradually br\ght him r\nd1 :5 in/ead ( ?ank+ 8 />s = 8 n>r[ escape1 or ,antonetti = ! plucky "p he _h play$1 he did no?+ b lam5t ! loss ( 8 gun1 ',t(eki1' :i* he _h himself won1 he said1 & ( 8 %awl :i* _h co/ him #ej pia/res4 ,we promis$ to make ! latt] good1 & left him to re/4 ,! :ole incid5t 0 9 all s5ses a damp] to our ard\r4 ,:5 we consid]$ t to pass ?is riv] we mu/ wait "o day at lea/1 & probably f\r days to get across ! "o ne> ,suli1 ! exp5diture ( "t seem$ to u all1 at lea/ s ,i ?\ght1 great] ?an we c>$ to devote to ! exp$ition4 ,s ! long & %ort ( x 0 t we turn$ back & slept at ,b>eatis4 ,next day we got back to ,jan9a4 ,i made up my m9d n[ t ,i 0 wa/+ "t ov] ?is trip1 & wi%$ to get back to ,a!ns4 ,b be=e leav+ ,i ?\ght x my duty to call once m on ,ali ,pa%a4 ,a mo/ agreeable old man he is4 ,i 0 m ?an ev] /ruck ) ! easy famili>ity & p]fect good hum\r ( 8 mann]s4 ,we f\nd him 9 a l[ ap>tm5t ) a fire 9 ! middle1 g5]ally us$ = 8 ,albanians & kn[n z laapoda4 ,!n we w5t to see ,p\queville1#de ! ,fr5* resid5t4 ,we f\nd him ) 8 bro!r1 bo? ( !m ! wor/ type ( ,fr5*m5--vulg>1 bragg+1 g5u9e *ildr5 ( ! ,revolution4 ,no?+ wor? rememb]+ 0 said1 b ,i did ga!r ?is f 8 tone--t ! ,empire 9 ,france is n likely to la/4 ,on ! #bf? my fri5ds1 = a wond]1 got up e>ly1 & we all set out 9 a boat = a small village :]e we 7 to f9d my horses4 ,!re we bid f>ewell & ,i m\nt$4 ,x came on to ra91 & ,i arriv$1 wet ?r\gh1 at ! ,?ree ,khans to sleep4 ,next day ! ra9 became sn[1 b ,i set out nev]!less = ,mezzovo4 ,we _h to =d ! riv] sev]al times1 & = ! la/ h\r to ,mezzovo 7 up to our middles 9 sn[4 ,! sc5]y 0 magnific5t1 & ! c\ntry is well cultivat$4 ,mezzovo is a ,vlaki or ,walla*ian village2 ! p speak a sort ( mix$ ,greek4 ,!y are exce$+ly indu/ri\s & well-to-d4 ,arti/ically ,i d n "k t ,i h ga9$ mu*1 b ,i d n regret ! "t ,i h sp5t 9 ,albania4 ,! climate is m brac+ ?an t ( ! re/ ( ,greece1 & has set me up aft] my illness4 ,! sc5]y1 ?\gh x _c be at its be/ 9 w9t]1 is mo/ beautiful1 & ! inhabitants are a f9e race--n h&some1 b h>dy & en]getic4 ,an ,albanian has v few wants4 ,a little bread ( calambo*i or ,indian corn1 an onion1 & *eese is abundant f>e to him4 ,if he *anges 8 l95 five times 9 ! ye>1 t is ! outside4 ,a knife & a pi/ol 9 8 girdle & 8 gun by 8 side1 he sleeps q well 9 ! op5 air ) 8 head on a /one & ! lappel ( 8 jacket ov] 8 face4 ,9 summ] & w9t] he we>s a fez4 ,8 boots are only goatsk9 s&als1 :i* he makes himself4 ,8 activity 9 !m ov] rocks is surpris+4 ,z = ,ali ,pa%a's gov]nm5t1 "o has to rememb] :at a *aotic /ate ! c\ntry 0 9 be=e he made himself ma/] ( x4 ,! acc\nts "o gets f ! eld]s make x cle> :at mis]y !re 04 ,no /rang] c\ld travel 9 x1 nor c\ld ! inhabitants !mselves get ab\t4 ,e valley 0 at w> ) its neighb\r1 & all 7 pr(essional brig&s4 ,all ?is ,ali has r$uc$ to ord]4 ,!re is law--= ev]yone admits 8 imp>tiality z comp>$ ) t ( rul]s 9 o!r p>ts ( ,turkey--& !re is comm]ce4 ,he has made roads1 =tifi$ ! bord]s1 put d[n brig&age1 & rais$ ,albania into a p[] ( "s importance 9 ,europe4 ,t 9 arriv+ at ?is end he has (t5 us$ means :i* civilis$ nations disapprove is no d\bt true1 b !re has be5 9 ! fir/ place gross exagg]ation z to ! crimes attribut$ to him3 = in/ance1 t he sees fifte5 or tw5ty heads cut (f e day be=e breakfa/1 :]eas 9 po9t ( fact !re has n be5 su* a ?+ z a public execution 9 ! pa/ ye>2 & !n1 9 ! second1 "o mu/ make all[ance = ! f]oci\s mann]s among/ :i* he 0 br\ght up4 ,on ! #bi? ( ,janu>y1 z ! wea!r seem$ fav\rable1 we set out eag]ly to cross ,p9dus4 ,! sn[ 0 deep 9 places1 b = ! fir/ h\r & a half we _h no great difficulty4 ,x 0 ! la/ half-h\r be=e gett+ to ! top t 0 wor/4 ,! road is desp]ately /eep up a precipice1 & ! sn[ 0 above ! horses' gir?s4 ,our *amalides1 h[ev]1 wad$ ?r\gh x1 (t5 up to _! middles1 &1 c>ry+ ! loads on _! own %\ld]s1 lift$ ! horses by _! tails & heads alt]nately1 ,i h>dly "k h[4 ,al?\gh ,i con/antly slipp$ d[n on ! /eep incl9e1 ,i 0 s eag] to see ! view t ,i 0 ! fir/ at ! top4 ,t[>ds ! int]ior x 0 glori\s3 ! feet ( ,p9dus root+ !mselves f> into ! c\ntry1 :i*1 al?\gh m\nta9\s1 0 free f sn[2 conspicu\s 0 ,elymbo 7,olympus71 ! top capp$ ) sn[1 b ! =m ( x is n beautiful4 ,to ! nor? 7 o!r sn[-capp$ m\nta9s4 ,beh9d u we/w>d ! air 0 s ?ick "o c\ld see no?+4 ,! we/ side ( ! hills is cov]$ ) fir1 :ile ! ea/ seems to h no?+ b oak & bir*--quantities ( x1 b all small trees4 ,z we w5t d[n we notic$ on ! trunks ( !m ! m>ks ( ! sn[ ( ! ye> be=e la/1 :i* mu/ h be5 t5 or twelve feet deep4 ,?ree & a half h\rs f our />t we got to a khan1 :]e we made a good fire & congratulat$ ourselves on hav+ got ov] ! hills s well & escap$ ! fatana--! w9d ! m\nta9e]s dread4 ,our next /age 0 to ,malaka%1 a ,vlaki t[n4 ,x 0 a/oni%+ ! way our *amalides bore ! fatigue ( =c+ our way ?r\gh ! sn[1 :i* 0 /ill five or six feet deep 9 places4 ,!y cut a way = ! horses1 :i* 7 con/antly fall+ d[n & half smo!r+ !mselves 9 ! drifts4 ,f !re we foll[$ ! c\rse ( ! riv] = six h\rs1 & cross$ x fifty times at lea/4 ,on ! way we pass$ a d]vi%1 an ,albanian4 ,he 0 seat$ on a sort ( balcony1 v high up1 & _h a gun 9 8 h&1 :i* he po9t$ at me & call$ on me to /op & pay4 ,! sight ( ! ,t>t>1 h[ev]1 br\ght him to reason4 ,)\t "o a travell] is expos$ to great insult f su* ruffians4 ,z x 01 a poor wret* :o tri$ to pass himself (f z "o ( our p>ty 0 =c$ to /op & pay 8 quota4 ,9 ! aft]noon we arriv$ at ,meteora1 ! /range rocks ( :i* we _h se5 f "s di/ance up ! riv]4 ,we 7 giv5 qu>t]s 9 ! h\se ( a ,cypriote ,greek1 f :om ,i le>nt a good deal ( ! t]rible exactions ( ,veli ,pa%a1 9 ^: dom9ions we n[ 74 ,our ho/ & 8 two sons1 poor wret*es ) h>dly a fez to _! heads & m]e s&als b\nd ) a ?ong to _! feet1 came to welcome u4 ,aft] ! fir/ complim5ts !y fell into ! tale ( _! woes4 ,_! taxes 7 s heavy t unless ! new ye> 7 abundantly fruitful ! village mu/ be bankrupt & become '*iflik' or =feit4 ,:5 a village is unable to pay its taxes1 ! vizi]1 z univ]sal mortgagee1 =ecloses & ! l& becomes 8 private prop]ty & ! villag]s 8 slaves4 ,?is is becom+ '*iflik4' ,:ile we 7 sitt+ & talk+ ( ^! tr\bles a great noise 0 he>d bel[4 ,two ,albanians1 be+ refus$ cona*i1 _h brok5 9 ! door ( a h\se & ent]$ by =ce1 & ! s\ba%i 0 gone out to quell ! riot4 ,he v prop]ly refus$ !m any k9d ( reception & drove !m out to ! khan4 ,my ho/s _h roa/$ me a f[l1 b my he>t 0 s full ,i c\ld sc>cely eat4 ,h[ long w x please ,god to afflict ^! wret*$ p ) su* mon/r\s tyranny8 ,besides ! exactions ( ! ,gov]nm5t1 sc\ndrels su* z ^! ,albanians infe/ ! villages1 =ce _! way 9 h\ses & eat & dr9k immod]ately & pay no?+4 ,to ease my m9d1 :5 ! daught] ( my ho/ br\ght me "s rais9s to eat ) my w9e ,i gave h] a doll>4 ,%e seem$ h>dly to believe h] eyes at fir/1 !n took x & kiss$ my h&4 ,next morn+1 ,janu>y #ca/1 ,i asc5d$ to ! pr9cipal mona/]y ( ,meteora4 ,aft] a tir+ walk ( half an h\r1 w9d+ among ! crags ( ?is /range place1 we came to ! foot ( ! rock on :i* x is p]*$1 & f\nd t ! ladd] commonly us$1 :i* is made 9 jo9ts five or six feet long1 _h be5 drawn up4 ,we call$ to ! papades :o 7 al(t to let d[n ! rope & net4 ,aft] "s halloo+1 d[n x came1 a circul> net ) ! me%es r\nd ! circumf]5ce ga!r$ on a hook4 ,mi*ael & myself1 ) my draw+ mat]ials1 got 9 & 7 drawn up by a w9dlass4 ,to sw+ 9 mid-air tru/+ to a rope n s ?ick z my wri/ & #abd feet long 7,i measur$ x7 is any?+ b pleasant4 ,i %all n =get my s5sations z ,i look$ out ?r\gh ! me%es ( ! net z we 7 sp9n+ r\nd 9 ! asc5t4 ,!re 0 a horrible void bel[--%e] precipices on ea* side1 & !n ! slipp+ ( ! rope z x cross$ on ! w9dlass4 ,once up1 we 7 pull$ 9 at ! entrance1 ! hook drawn out1 & we 7 set at lib]ty4 ,! company t receiv$ u 7 "s wret*$ papades1 z ignorant z possible4 ,!y c\ld tell me next to no?+ ab\t _! mona/]y1 except t on ! occasion ( an invasion ( ! ,turks1 a bey ( ,trikhala1 "o ,joseph ,ducas1 _h retir$ hi!r & e/abli%$ x & sev5te5 o!rs4 ,! build+s ( t5 ( !m /ill exi/1 b only two or ?ree are /ill inhabit$4 ,! *ur* "h is a v good "o1 & !re is a *apel ( ,con/ant9e4 ,! view is magnific5t4 ,i gave a doll> to ! "y prie/ :o took me r\nd1 desir+ him to use x = any purpose ( ! *ur*2 b ,i f\nd1 f :at my peasant guide told me :5 we _h got d[n1 t ! scamp _h pocket$ x = 8 own use1 = t ! *ief papa _h ask$ him z we 7 ab\t to leave1 if ! /rang] w\ld n leave "s p>ahs = ! *ur*4 ,x 0 a lovely day1 & b5ea? me1 f ! village1 pass$ a procession ( a bridegroom go+ to a neighb\r+ village to fet* 8 bride4 ,8 "m 0 on "o side ( 8 horse1 ano!r relative on ! o!r2 be=e him a male relation c>ri$ a flag1 & beh9d came all 8 fri5ds & family 9 _! be/ dresses ) guns on _! %\ld]s1 mak+ a gallant %[4 ,x 0 a pretty sight4 ,we left ,kalabaki by ,meteora1 & rea*$ ,trikhala ab\t sunset4 ,! solitude ( ! t[n & ! va/ness ( ! cemet]ies gave "o ! creeps2 & he>+ t ! plague 0 9 ! t[n at t mom5t1 ,i m\nt$ aga91 & rode f\r h\rs fur!r to a khan & slept !re4 ,next day we rode to ,ph]sala 7twelve h\rs72 b ! plague be+ !re also1 we proce$$ a fur!r f\r h\rs to a khan "u ,?aumaco 7sixte5 h\rs' rid+74 ,f ,meteora to ,ph]sala is "o un9t]rupt$ pla9 :i* ,i ?\ght w\ld nev] end4 ,i saw _m villages1 b mu* mis]y--especially 9 ,trikhala & ,ph]sala4 ,next day we got to ,zituni 7six h\rs7 ab\t noon4 ,i did n v5ture to /ay on acc\nt ( ! plague1 & pass$ on to ,molo1 at :i* we arriv$ 9 ! ev5+1 pass+ ?r\gh ! ,/raits ( ,!rmopyl4 ,molo is a village ( only #bjj h\ses1 & yet =ty p]sons _h di$ ( ! plague 9 x 9 ! la/ ?ree days4 ,! t]rifi$ inhabitants _h fl$ to ! m\nta9s1 & we f\nd only two hangees 7m5 atta*$ to ! han7 to receive u4 ,we meant to h slept "h1 b ! cats & dogs h[l$ s t]ribly 7always a symptom ( ! plague7 t ,i c\ld n sleep 9 com=t2 s z ! moon %one bright1 we m\nt$ & rode six h\rs fur!r to a village opposite ,p>nassus1 pass+ 9 safety ! f\nta9 fam\s = robb]s :o are almo/ always /ation$ !re4 ,! sc5]y "h is v f9e & romantic4 ,9 six h\rs m1 aft] cross+ two little pla9s besides t ( ,*rona1 we arriv$ at ,livadia 7,febru>y #crd74 ,:at betwe5 ! cold1 ! horror ( ! plague1 & ! fatigue1 x _h be5 an appall+ j\rney4 ,,footnotes3 #dd ,! ,g>diki massacre took place ab\t #agii4 ,9 ,ali's y\?1 8 t[] _h be5 /orm$ by ! p ( ,g>diki & 8 "m & si/] outrag$--at lea/1 s he said4 ,he nurs$ 8 rev5ge = =ty ye>s1 & !n gratifi$ x by massacr+ ! :ole population ( ! village4 #de ,au?or ( a valuable acc\nt ( ,greece at ?is "t4 ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,a!ns--,,to ,,zante ,,= ,,sale ,,( ,,phigaleian ,,m>bles--,,returns ,,to ,,a!ns--,,fev]--,,sp5c] ,,/anhope--,,trip ,,to ,,m>a?on1 ,,etc4--,,ramazan--,,liv+ ,,out ,,9 ,,! ,,c\ntry--,a ,,picnic ,,at ,,salamis--,,pres5t$ ,,) ,a ,,block ,,( ,,pana!naic ,,frieze--,,trip ,,to ,,g9a--,,leaves ,,a!ns ,,= ,,italy4 ,my fa!r seems to h got back to ,a!ns to 8 old qu>t]s at ,madame ,masson's ) ,hall] & ,/ackelb]g1 & !re rema9$4 ,he kept a di>y only "u ! excitem5t ( travel or novelty1 & z ! sights & society ( ,a!ns 7 too famili> to /ir him1 !re is no precise record ( h[ he pass$ 8 "t2 b he says 9 a lett] t he int5ds to sp5d 8 w9t] 9 complet+ ! g9a & ,phigaleian draw+s4 ,aft] all1 x 0 only two or ?ree mon?s he _h to be !re4 ,! ,phigaleian ,m>bles 7 to be sold 9 ,zante 9 ,may1 & ?is "t he meant to be pres5t4 ,! fiasco ( ! g9a ,m>bles 9 8 abs5ce 0 a w>n+ ( :at might happ5 aga9 if ! sale 7 n prop]ly look$ aft]2 & z ,gropius aft] 8 failure _h be5 dismiss$ f 8 functions z ag5t 7al?\gh /ill "p proprietor7 ! necess>y "w _h to be done by ! o!rs--ea* "o probably communicat+ ) 8 own ,gov]nm5t4 ,he _h tak5 c>e t 8 7! ,briti%7 %\ld be kept prop]ly po/$ up4 ,9 consequ5ce1 ev]y?+ w5t (f )\t a hit*4 ,9 ,may he w5t to ,zante4 ,! m>bles 7 sold to ,g5]al ,campbell1#df comm&ant ( ! ,ionian ,isl&s1 act+ on behalf ( ,h4,r4,h4 ! ,pr9ce ,reg5t1 & 7 already pack$ up = transport on ! #ab? ( ,july4 ,dur+ 8 /ay 9 ,zante my fa!r made _m elaborate draw+s ( ! ,phigaleian bas-reliefs1 ) a view to det]m9+ _! relative positions = ! book1 & he n[ return$ to ,a!ns to g on ) x4 ,he arriv$ on ! #aa? ( ,july4 ,b 8 heal? 0 no long] able to be> an ,a!nian summ]4 ,9 ,augu/ he writes3 ,a mo/ tiresome fev] has be5 worry+ me = ! pa/ mon?1 sometimes leav+ me = a few days1 at o!rs r5d]+ me incapable ( do+ any?+4 ,few p1 ev5 natives1 escape x1 ei!r 9 ?is or any o!r summ]4 ,su* is ! f9e climate ( ,greece1 :i* poets w\ld p]suade y is a p>adise1 :]eas really hyp]borean ,engl&1 ) all h] fogs1 has /ill ! be/ 9 ! _w4444 ,i am summ+ up a few obs]vations1 wond]fully savant & deep1 on ! temples we are prep>+ = publication1 & ! ,grecian ar*itecture 9 g5]al4 ,betwe5 y & me1 ,i v]ily flatt] myself1 we und]/& x practically bett] ?an anybody--z inde$ we ought to4 ,i arriv$ f ,zante on ! #aa? ,july4 ,:ile ,i 0 !re ,i receiv$ a v fre% 767 lett] f home ( tw5ty-n9e days4 ,i 0 rejoic$ to f9d "h my fri5ds & old s*oolfell[s1 ,sp5c] ,/anhope & 8 bro!r4 ,conceive our pleasure talk+ at ,a!ns ov] ,we/m9/] /ories & all our adv5tures s9ce we left4 ,he1 poor fell[1 has be5 a prison] 9 ,france = two & a half ye>s1 hav+ be5 tak5 9 ,spa9 ow+ to ! trea*]y ( a ,gibralt> vessel1 :i* took him into ! port ( ,b>celona4 ,he is n[ explor+ & excavat+ 7at 8 own exp5se7 = ! ,fr5* ,gov]nm5t z ! condition = 8 fre$om6 ,a few days lat] he & ,i made a trip to ,m>a?on4 ,we proce$$ to ,rhamnos1 & sleep+ a night at a f\nta9 ne> by1 visit$ 9 ! morn+ ! ,temple ( ,nemesis & /ay$ !re ! :ole day4 ,x _h be5 well exam9$1 & by ?is "t w h be5 publi%$ by ,gell#dg & ,g&y4 ,we !n w5t on to a village ne> :i* we _h ! good =tune to f9d ,tanagra1 ! situation ( :i* _h nev] yet be5 kn[n4 ,we c\ld trace ! :ole circuit ( ! walls & a !atre4 ,!nce to ,aulis1 ! walls ( :i* are easily traceable2 !n we cross$ ! bridge ov] ! ,euripos into ,euboea4 ,! t[n ( ,negropont is a wret*$ place1 inhabit$ by no?+ b ,turks4 ,! =tress is ru9$ & contemptible1 & ! cannon out ( ord]1 z usual1 al?\gh x is by way ( be+ "o ( ! pr9cipal =tresses 9 ^! p>ts4 ,! m "o sees ( ! ,turks ! m "o is a/oni%$ at _! prolong$ rule 9 ^! c\ntries4 ,we visit$ a bey 9 ?is place :o _h a set ( maps1 & 0 consid]$ "o ( ! mo/ enlight5$ m5 9 ! t[n4 ,he produc$ !m imm$iately he saw u1 & boa/$ ( 8 ext5sive k on ! subject1 & ! respect ! by/&]s paid ?is philosoph] 0 p]fectly delightful4 ,! usual cu/om1 be=e mak+ a visit to ^! great p]sonages1 is to s5d !m an (f]+ ( two or ?ree p\nds ( sug> or c(fee1 & ,i ?\ght he seem$ r (f5d$ at our exempt+ ourselves1 z ,engli%m51 f ?is tribute4 ,next day we w5t along ! sea%ore1 rid+ ?r\gh delightful g>d5s & olive groves1 to ,eretria1 :i* has n be5 se5 by mod]n travell]s4 ,x mu/ h be5 a great city1 little less ?an ?ree miles 9 circumf]5ce4 ,! :ole ext5t ( ! walls & !atres is /ill visible4 ,! great] "p ( ,greece is naturally a ri* & productive c\ntry4 ,?is ne$s no bett] pro( ?an ! imm5se population to :i* ! ru9s /ill rema9+ be> te/imony4 ,! ru9s ( t[ns ( imm5se ext5t & close to ea* o!r are f\nd ev]y:]e1 & n[ x is a des]t4 ,nei!r plague1 pe/il5ce1 nor fam9e is s de/ructive z tyranny4 ,we return$ to ,a!ns on ! t5? day4 ,we he> t ! plague is rag+ at ,con/ant9ople1 ,salonica1 & ,smyrna2 :]eas ,a!ns1 ) ! ,morea & ,greece 9 g5]al1 ?\gh surr\nd$ on all sides by x1 has escap$4 ,! fe/ival ( ,ramazan is be+ celebrat$4 ,! baza> has be5 well spr9kl$ ) wat]1 & lights are hung be=e e %op4 ,! caffanee 7c(fee %ops7 are all op5 & light$1 z well z ! balconies ( ! mosques4 ,all day1 if any ,turks are se51 !y are walk+ ab\t 9 _! be/1 ) long w&s1 b look+ v cross1 & n lightly to be acco/$ by a ,greek4 ,at k9de 7sunset7 ! imams call1 & ! fai?ful1 hav+ fa/$ f sunrise1 n hav+ smok$ or ev5 drunk a drop ( wat]1 sit d[n ) holy zeal to ! v be/ meal _! funds c af=d1 = x is acc\nt$ a crime at ?is fea/ to d5y !mselves :at ! he>t desires4 ,aft] ?is ! mosque1 gaily light$1 is fill$ ) songs & pray] & ?anksgiv+4 ,lat] on ! /reets are fill$4 ,ea* 9 8 be/ enjoys :atev] pleasures & amusem5ts ! t[n has to (f]--ombres *9oises1 long /ories f ! ',arabian ,nights1' music1 *ess-play+1 c4 ,above all1 ! wom5 n[ h lib]ty4 ,!y g ab\t 9 p>ties1 unmask$1 visit+1 fea/+1 & amus+ !mselves1 & ! :ole place is a cont9ual ,vauxhall f sunset to sunrise4 ,at midnight ! imam aga9 asc5ds to ! m9>et ) a *orus1 :o s+ a solemn & beautiful hymn1 f> m impressive ?an ! f9e/ bells 9 ,*ri/5dom4 ,! words beg9-- ,arise1 arise1 & pray1 = ye "k n ! h\r ( dea?4 ,t[>ds ! morn+ passes ! dumbanum1 a huge drum :i* a man beats z he goes2 :ile ano!r accompanies him 9 a sort ( s+-song1 call+ up ea* h\sehold] & bidd+ him eat 8 pillau1 = ! morn+ is ne>4 ,he w9ds up ) good wi%es & k9d t]ms1 = :i*1 at ! end ( ! ,ramazan1 he expects a pres5t4 ,my "n 0 br\ght 94 ,:at d y ?9k ( ,cock>ella to rhyme ) ,canella8 ,f ! m9>et a begg> is cry+ = *>ity & ?reat5+ to ?r[ himself d[n unless he gets x4 ,he goes !re at ! same h\r e day till he has got :at he wants4 ,! wife ( ! old disd> 7comm&ant ( ! ca/le7 di$ a few days ago4 ,%e 0 "o ( ! fir/ ladies ( ! place1 & a respectable good woman4 ,ev]yone 0 t\*$ ) ! disd>'s lam5tation4 ',%e 0 ! %ip 9 :i* all my hopes 7 emb>k$4 ,%e 0 ! port 9 :i* ,i took %elt] f all ! /orms & tr\bles ( ! _w2 9 h] my com=ts & joys 7 confid$2 %e 0 ! an*or 9 :i* ,i tru/$4' ,ea* morn+ he has visit$ h] tomb1 &1 caus+ wat] to be br\ght1 has p\r$ x ar\nd t h] rema9s may be refre%$4 ,?ree days aft]1 z is ! cu/om1 ! eld]s ( 8 relations w5t to him1 desir+ t he %\ld m>ry aga94 ,b he refus$1 look+1 z he said1 soon to foll[ 8 wife4 ,octob] #cj4--;,i h be5 hav+ cont9ual relapses ( ?is abom9able fev] ev] s9ce ,augu/4 ,! wor/ 0 9 ! beg9n+ ( ?is mon?1 & x has tak5 me till n[ to get ov] x4 ,aft] hav+ lee*es on1 ,i _h remov$ "o ( ! b&ages too soon1 & lo/ a great] quantity ( blood ?an 0 int5d$4 ,x is impossible to describe ! feebl5ess ?is fev] leaves4 ,i sometimes felt z if ,i 0 brea?+ out my s\l1 & _h ceas$ to belong to ?is _w at all4 ,i lo/ all int]e/ 9 my pursuits4 ,i %\ld h be5 badly (f inde$ if x _h n be5 = ,madame ,masson4 ,%e _h be5 a second "m to me1 & m att5tive 9 ?is & 9 all my o!r illnesses ?an any att5dants ,i c\ld h hir$4 ,z soon z ,i 0 a little bett] %e 0 s good z to accompany me to a mona/]y 9 ! ,sacr$ ,way1 "s little di/ance f ,a!ns1 to :i* ,i _h be5 advis$ to g = *ange ( air4 ,!re 0 only "o old woman !re to take c>e ( ! keys1 & 9 ! big des]t$ place we 7 l two owls 9 a b>n4 ,i _c say x 0 gay4 ,i pass$ mo/ ( my "t 9 sleep+1 = t has be5 ! *ief effect ( my weakness1 & :at little 0 left 9 read+4 ,occasionally we 7 fav\r$ ) a visit by "s ( our ,a!nian fri5ds1 :o br\ght _! provisions ) !m1 z _! cu/om is4 ,! mona/]y /&s 9 a beautiful dell or pass ?r\gh ! m\nta9s4 ,on "o side is a beautiful view ( ! bay & m\nta9s ( ,eleusis1 & on ! o!r1 ( ! ,pla9 ( ,a!ns1 ) ! long =e/ ( olive trees betwe5 u & ! ,acropolis1 :i* dom9ates ! pla9 & is back$ by ,hymettus4 ,on ! "r is ! ,piru1 at no great di/ance4 ,i c\ld n enjoy ?is lovely sc5e4 ,alas6 "o c enjoy no?+ ) a l[ fev]4 ,& n[1 aft] a /ay ( a =tnight1 we are j return$1 & ,i am n mu* ! bett] = x4 ,b "o ( ! la/ days ,i 0 !re ,i 0 tempt$ by my fri5d ,l9ckh to ride to ,piru1 to jo9 9 celebrat+ ! anniv]s>y ( ! victory ( ,salamis--! #be? ,octob]--by a fte on ! isl& ( ,psytalia1 :]e ! ?icke/ ( ! fight 0 wag$4 ,he _h assembl$ a l>ge p>ty ( ,a!nians1 :o1 to tell ! tru?1 7 m int5t on ! fea/ ?an on ! occasion ( x4 ,we emb>k$ f ,piru 9 a l>ge boat1 accompani$ by music--to wit1 fiddles & tamb\r9es--z is ! ,a!nian fa%ion1 & a great c>go ( provisions :i* 7 to be prep>$ :ile ! mod]n ,a!nians contemplat$ ! int]e/+ sc5e be=e u1 & 7 to weep ov] ! fall ( _! c\ntry s9ce ^? glori\s days1 c4 c4 ,all set out 9 ! greate/ glee4 ,beyond ! port1 9 ! op5 sea1 "s c\nt5ances began to *ange2 ?\gh we _h almo/ a calm1 "s began to feel ! effects ( ! 'g5tle motion' & hung _! heads ov] ! side1 :ile sev]al p9*$ ea* o!r ) fe> & anxiety at our di/ance f t]ra firma4 ,gradually all became sil5ce4 ,!n "s murmurs began to arise1 toge!r ) advice & recomm5dation to ! sailors to r[ g5tly & hold fa/4 ,a c\ncil ( w> sat1 & agre$ nem4 con4 t x w\ld be be/ to return to ! ne>e/ l&4 ,a small bay 0 f\nd & all leapt a%ore1 cross+ !mselves & ?ank+ _! />s = _! deliv]ance4 ,a fire 0 light$1 ! lamb roa/$ 9 no "t1 a clo? laid on ! gr\nd1 & all set to4 ,! ,greeks ( old c\ld n h attack$ ! ,p]sians ) m ard\r ?an ^! mod]ns did ! turkeys & lamb be=e u4 ,! bottle w5t r\nd apace1 & all soon began to glorify !mselves1 ! demoiselles also play+ _! "p2 & :5 at l5g?1 & n until at l5g?1 ! desire ( eat+ & dr9k+ 0 accompli%$1 ea* "o fil*$ ! rema9+ sweets (f ! table z %e f\nd h] opportunity4 ,music's s(t en*antm5t !n arose1 & ! mo/ active began a dance1 truly bac*analian1 :ile ! re/ l+]$ ov] ! joys ( ! table4 ,pun* cr[n$ ! fea/4 ,all 0 rapture2 mod]ation 0 no long] obs]v$1 & ! day clos$ ) a pelt+ ( ea* o!r ) ! bones ( ! sla91 amid/ danc+1 s++1 & ro>s ( laught] or applause4 ,i v5ture to ass]t mo/ positively t n "o ?\ght 0 giv5 to ! sc5e be=e u1 or ! occasion1 by any "o memb] ( ! p>ty except my fri5d ,l9ckh & ! ,greek3 didaskalos1 ! s*oolma/] ( ,a!ns1 :o1 hav+ br\ght tools = ! purpose1 c>v$ on ! rock an inscription :i* w "o day be int]e/+ to ^? :o may *ance to light ^u x a ?\s& ye>s h5ce--',invitation or repa/ 9 memory ( ! immortal ,salam9ian combat4' ,our p>ty emb>k$ n till aft] sunset2 & ?\gh ! sea 0 twice z high & ! w9d z contr>y z x 0 com+1 su* are ! p[]s ( nect> & ambrosia t all conduct$ !mselves ) uncommon c\rage & resolution4 ,*oruses1 ,dut* & ,a!nian1 beguil$ ! way1 & all 0 h>mony except ! music4 ,s "o might h hop$ ! day might h conclud$2 b no6 ! ,greek fire1 once light$1 is n s easily qu5*$4 ,i1 z an invalid1 & exce$+ly tir$ ) s mu* pleasure1 retir$ to my cell 9 a mona/]y :]e we 7 all to pass ! night1 & "s ( my fri5ds k9dly gave me a cov]let & a sort ( b$1 on :i* ,i ?rew myself2 b n until long aft] midnight did ! music or ! danc+ cease1 or ,i or any sob] p]son get a *ance ( sleep4 ,we got away next day1 b n )\t difficulty2 = ! ,a!nians are l our j\rneym53 :5 once !y are out on ! spree !y mu/ c>ry x on = a week4 ,we are n[ 9 ,a!ns aga91 & ,i h j return$ to my "w-table cov]$ ) ! du/ ( s _m lo/ days4 ,?is wa/e ( "t is t]rible4 ,altoge!r1 out ( tw5ty-f\r mon?s sp5t 9 ,a!ns1 sev5 h be5 pass$ 9 illness4 ,if ev] ,i get away f ?is c\ntry 9 heal? & safety1 h[ ,i %all ?ank my />s6 ,x 0 9 ^! la/ days ( 8 /ay 9 ,a!ns t he became possess$ ( a portion ( ! ,pana!naic frieze ( ! ,p>!non 9 ! foll[+ /range mann]4 ,! disd> or comm&ant ( ! ca/le on ! ,acropolis 0 by n[ an old fri5d ( ,cock]ell's1 & _h end$ by becom+ exce$+ly atta*$ to him4 ,:5 he und]/ood f ! latt]1 :o came to pay him a f>ewell visit1 t he 0 leav+ = good1 he told him t he w\ld make him a pres5t4 ,he said he knew t ,cock]ell 0 v fond ( old sculptur$ /ones1 s if he lik$ to br+ a c>t to ! base ( ! ,acropolis at a c]ta9 h\r at night 7x c\ld n be done 9 ! daytime = fe> ( giv+ (f5ce to ! ,greeks7 he w\ld give him some?+4 ,cock]ell kept ! appo9tm5t ) ! c>t4 ,z !y drew ne> !re 0 a %\t f above to look out1 & )\t fur!r w>n+ ! block :i* =ms ! "r-h& portion ( ,slab ,i4 ( ! ,s\? ,frieze n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum 0 b[l$ d[n ! cliff4 ,su* a treatm5t ( x _h n be5 anticipat$1 b x 0 too late = regrets4 ,! block 0 put on to ! c>t1 tak5 d[n to ! ,piru1 & %ipp$ at once4 ,cock]ell pres5t$ x to ! ,briti% ,museum1 & its mutilat$ appe>ance be>s eloqu5t te/imony to its r\gh passage d[n ! precipices ( ! ,acropolis4 ,my fev] cont9u$ to h>ass me until ,i took a trip to g9a1 :i* ,i made = ! purpose ( *ange ( air1 z well z ( correct+ & revis+ our draw+s ( ! ,temple ( ,jupit] ,panhell5ius4 ,9 bo? respects ,i h succe$$ beyond my hopes4 ,i am n[ 9 p]fect heal?1 & h made "s improvem5ts & additions to our obs]vations :i* w be ( importance to our "w4 ,tak+ ladd]s f "h1 ,i h also succe$$ 9 measur+ ! columns ( a temple suppos$ to h be5 t ( ,v5us--,i ?9k ,hecate--:i* are ( univ]sally admir$ proportion1 & s high t hi!rto no travell]s h be5 able to manage !m4 ,only two columns /ill exi/4 ,!y belong1 ,i f\nd1 to ! po/icum betwe5 ! ant4 ,9 digg+ at _! base to prove ?is1 ,i came ^u a v beautiful foot 9 a s&al1 life-size1 ( ,p>ian m>ble1 ( precisely ! same s*ool & /yle z ^? ( our ,panhell5ian discov]y4#dh ,y may imag9e ,i c\nt$ on no?+ less ?an f9d+ a collection z int]e/+ & ext5sive z ! o!r4 ,i procur$1 ) "s difficulty1 au?ority f ! ar*ons ( ! isl&1 & /ruck a b>ga9 by :i* !y 7 to h "o half ( ! produce ( ! excavation1 :i* 0 to be made at my exp5se1 & ,i ! o!r1 ) a fir/ refusal ( pur*as+ _! portion4 ,i dug = ?ree days )\t f9d+ ! smalle/ fragm5t1 &1 :at 0 worse1 satisfi$ myself t x _h be5 dug ov] & re-dug a hundr$ times1 ! f\ndations ( ! temple hav+ s]v$ "t out ( m9d z a qu>ry = ! g9etans4 ,! money sp5t 0 n v great1 ! "t wa/$ 0 all to ! good ( my heal?1 & ,i 0 able to make a curi\s obs]vation on ! f\ndations ( ! build+4 ,greek temples are commonly on rock4 ,?is 0 n2 & ! f\ndations 7 no less ?an #ad to #ae feet deep1 ! fir/ ?ree c\rses ( well-cut /one1 ! la/ set 9 mort> on a wall ( small /ones 9 mort>1 at ! sides ( :i* is a rubble-"w ( l>gi% /ones beat5 d[n ) sea s& & *>coal & bones ( sacrifices4 ,und]nea?1 aga91 are o!r c\rses ( well-cut /ones :i* =m a solid mass "u ! :ole temple4 ,i h also ) great difficulty1 s9ce !re are no c>p5t]s 9 ?is c\ntry1 asc]ta9$ :at ,i spoke ( be=e z a matt] ( conjecture--viz4 ! entasis or swell+ ( ! ,greek columns4 ,a /raight l9e /ret*$ f ! capital to ! base %[$ ! swell+ at ab\t a ?ird ( ! height to be 9 ! ,temple ( ,m9]va an in*1 9 t ( g9a half an in*1 :i* is ! same proportion 9 bo?4 ,! ru9$ /ate ( ! columns ( ! ,!seum makes x less easy to asc]ta9 ! exact swell+4 ,^? ( ,m9]va ,polias & ! ,ere*!um are also swell$4 ,i h no d\bt t x 0 a g5]al rule ) ! ,greek ar*itects1 ?\gh x has hi!rto escap$ ! eyes ( ,/u>t & our mo/ accurate obs]v]s4 ,cock]ell _h long be5 anxi\s to get into ,italy4 ,!re alone c\ld he see & /udy an ar*itecture 9 "s measure applicable to mod]n ne$s1 if he 0 ev] to become a practical ar*itect4 ,= f\r ye>s he _h be5 /udy+ ab/ract beauty1 practis+ 8 h& 9 l&scape pa9t+1 int]e/+ himself 9 ar*ology1 & g5]ally1 except = 8 vig\r & p]sev]ance1 behav+ z _m a g5tleman at l>ge might h done ^: place 9 ! ,engli% _w 0 already made = him4 ,b he _h a position to w91 & 9 "o ( ! mo/ ardu\s ( pr(essions1 = :i* all ?is unsettl+ life 0 n m]ely n prep>+ him b actually mak+ him unfit4 ,s9ce 8 fir/ />tl+ success at g9a1 he _h be5 l$ on f "o exp$ition to ano!r1 los+ sight = mon?s toge!r1 9 ! easy life & simple conditions :i* surr\nd$ him1 ( ! ke5 competition 9 ! cru% ( ,london = :i* he ought to be gird+ himself4 ,he _h be5 =m+ a ta/e1 b a ta/e 9 ! ext]nals & details ( build+ only4 ,( composition & ( plann+ he _h se5 z yet no f9e example & _h le>nt no?+4 ,!re 0 no?+ left = him to d 9 ,greece4 ,he _h trav]s$ x 9 all directions1 se5 e place ( int]e/1 & :5ev] !re appe>$ a prospect ( f9d+ any?+ ) ! mod]ate means at 8 disposal1 he _h tri$ digg+4 ,"u ,napoleon's cont95tal sy/em ,italy ( c\rse 0 clos$ to ,engli%m51 b to ,bav>ians x 0 accessible1 & ,cock]ell _h (t5 talk$ ) ,hall] ( ! possibility ( smuggl+ himself z 8 s]vant into ! c\ntry "u cov] ( 8 7,hall]'s7 passport4 ,=tunately ?is 0 nev] attempt$4 ,ev5 if !y _h succe$$ 9 pass+ ! fronti]s "u ,gov]nm5ts :]e e =eign] 0 subject$ to cont9ual espionage1 ! delusion w\ld soon h be5 discov]$4 ,x 0 a boy's s*eme4 ,he _h also tri$ to engage ! good (fices ( ,l\is ( ,bav>ia to obta9 him admission z an arti/1 b no?+ _h come ( x2 & f9ally1 :5 he he>d t ,lady ,he/] ,/anhope _h got leave to travel 9 ,italy1 he _h appli$ to ,"l ,melville = a simil> indulg5ce4 ,b ) ! abdication ( ,napoleon1 :i* took place 9 ,april #ahad1 ! :ole prospect *ang$4 ,france 0 at once ?r[n op5 to ,engli%m51 & ! re/ ( ! ,cont95t by degrees4 ,x is n easy to discov] at :at precise date ! k+dom ( ,naples & ,rome became accessible1 b x mu/ h be5 dur+ ! summ]4 ,we/]n news took "t to p]colate into ,greece1 b z soon z he le>nt t !re 0 a possibility ( p5etrat+ into ,italy1 he _h begun mak+ prep>ations = do+ s4 ,& n[ t !re 0 no?+ left to deta9 him1 he arrang$ to />t ) ,l9ckh = ,rome on ! #ae? ( ,janu>y1 #ahae4 ,:5 ! appo9t$ day came1 ,madame ,masson saw him (f at ! ,piru1 & %$ floods ( te>s4 ,%e 0 v fond ( him4 ,two ye>s aft] %e writes3 ,non si sa cosa ,c>novale dopo la vo/ra p>t5za4 ,a curi\s fact ab\t ! j\rney is t !y br\ght away ) !m a ,g]man ( ,d>m/adt ( ! "n ( ,c>l ,re/]1 :o appe>s to h be5 a fugitive slave1 ( :om m h]eaft]4 ,! p>ty 0 jo9$ by a ,mr4 ,tupp]4 ,?is "y g5tleman _h be5 lodg+ at ,madame ,makri's1 & _h fall5 9 love1 z x 0 ! indisp5sable fa%ion = "y ,engli%m5 to d1 ) "o or all ( ! *>m+ daught]s4 ,he left !m 9 te>s1 v[+ to return1 b x does n appe> t he ev] did4 ,! di>y ( ?is j\rney is kept 9 a sket*-book 9 p5cil1 & is n ev]y:]e legible4 ,! c\ntry 0 "o well trav]s$ by t\ri/s & m9utely describ$ by ,gell4 ,!re 7 no discov]ies to be made or new impressions to be felt4 ,!y _h no adv5tures4 ,! wea!r 0 odi\s4 ,! entries consi/ l>gely ( ! k9d ( in=mation--e/imates ( population1 acc\nts ( products1 & possibilities--:i* = ! mod]n travell] is f\nd by ,murray or ,ba$ek]1 & w\ld nev] figure 9 8 di>y4 ,at ! m\? ( ! ,alpheus he rem>ks h[ well suit$ ! situation w\ld be = a naval docky>d1 close to va/ =e/s ( oak & fir--=e/s1 all ( :i* mu/ h disappe>$ 9 ! deva/ations ( ,mehemet ,ali1 = !re are none !re n[4 ,! r\te tak5 0 by ,cor9?1 ,argos1 ,tripolizza1 ,c>itz5a1 ,phigaleia1 :i* !y f\nd buri$ 9 sn[1 ,olympia1 ,patras1 ,i?aca1 ,corfu1 ,otranto1 ,lecce1 ,b>i1 & ,foggia4 ,! ,pass ( ,bov9o1 betwe5 ,foggia & ,naples1 0 consid]$ exce$+ly dang]\s1 on acc\nt ( b&itti1 & p]haps ! mo/ int]e/+ ?+ 9 ! :ole di>y is ! extravagant size ( ! escort consid]$ necess>y to see ! travell]s ?r\gh x4 ,x consi/$ ( no less ?an sixty m5--?irty cavalry & ?irty infantry4 ,b on ! :ole ! di>y ( ! j\rney1 :i* 0 ?r\gh int]e/+ places & at an int]e/+ mom5t1 c\ld h>dly be dull]4 ,x may be due to ,cock]ell's hav+ be5 9 poor heal?1 or to ,tupp]'s hav+ be5 a /upid1 un/imulat+ companion4 ,!y arriv$ at ,naples on ! #ad? ( ,april1 #ahae4 ,,footnotes3 #df ,g5]al ,sir ,james ,campbell1 ,b>t4 7#agfc-ahai71 ,gov]nor ( ! ,ionian ,isl&s till #ahaf4 #dg ,sir ,william ,gell 7#aggg-ahcf71 travell]1 au?or ( ! ,it9]>y ( ,greece1 ,pompeiana1 & o!r works4 ,! ,augu/us ,h>e ( 8 day4 #dh ,?is foot 0 pres5t$ to ! ,glypto!k at ,muni*4 ,,*apt] ,,xix ,,naples--,,pompeii--,,rome--,,! ,,g]man ,,re/] ,,got ,,rid ,,(--,,social ,,success ,,9 ,,rome--,,leaves ,,= ,,flor5ce--,,b>?oldy ,,& ,,! ,,niobe ,,gr\p--,,lady ,,dillon-- ,,! ,,well+ton ,,palace--,,pisa--,,t\r ,,9 ,,! ,,nor?--,,meets ,,/ackelb]g ,,aga9--,,returns ,,to ,,flor5ce ,,& ,,rome--,,homew>d ,,b\nd--,,conclusion4 ,) "o exception !re 7 no ,engli%m51 arti/s or o!rs1 9 ,naples at t "t1 b a numb] ( ,fr5*m51 ) "s ( :om ,cock]ell /ruck up a great intimacy4 ,9 spite ( national feel+1 :i* 0 runn+ v high at ! "t1 he got on v well ) !m1 b he says 9 a lett] f ,rome !y 7 dreadful "t-s]v]s 9 _! political views4 ,( c\rse x 0 a difficult mom5t = ,fr5*m54 ,aft] ,napoleon's abdication at ,fonta9ebleau 9 ,april #ahad1 !y _h _h to accommodate !mselves to a revival ( ! anci5t mon>*y1 :i* c\ld n be v satisfactory to anyone1 & n[ ,napoleon 0 back aga9 9 ,france4 ,betwe5 two su* alt]natives no wond] t _! judgm5t oscillat$2 b to ,cock]ell--patriotic1 en?usia/ic1 & tr\bl$ by no awkw>d dilemmas--_! vacillation 0 un9telligible4 ,! "o ,engli%man 0 ,gell 7aft]w>ds ,sir ,william71 :o speaks ( a /ay !y made toge!r at ,pompeii z ! pleasante/ "t he _h sp5t 9 8 ?ree ye>s' t\r4 ,dur+ ?is "t ,cock]ell work$ h>d1 & besides :at he did :i* c\ld only be ( use to himself1 he made himself s famili> ) ,pompeii t ,gell propos$ to him to jo9 him 9 writ+ an it9]>y ( t place4 ,altoge!r1 leav+ ,a!ns on ! #ae? ( ,janu>y1 x 0 six mon?s be=e ,cock]ell got to ,rome4 ,betwe5 ,naples & ,rome ! c\ntry seems to h be5 9 a v unquiet /ate1 & ,c>l ,re/]1 :o 0 /ill ) him1 writes aft]w>ds3 ,y rememb] h[ anxi\s ab\t brig&s we all 7 on ! j\rney4 ,soon aft] !y arriv$1 ,re/]1 :o mu/ by n[ h become an irksome burd51 />t$ f ,rome to walk to 8 own home at ,frank=t4 ,he took a long "t ab\t x1 b he got !re at la/ 9 ,decemb]1 only to f9d 8 family s r$uc$ by ! w>s t he det]m9$1 z he says1 n to be a burd5 to !m1 b to %[ 8 gratitude to 8 b5efactor by ask+ = m fav\rs & ?r[+ himself z a burd5 ^u him4 ,s he det]m9$ to ext5d 8 walk to ,engl&4 ,be=e leav+ 8 native t[n1 h[ev]1 he says he publi%$ 9 ! local newspap] ! foll[+ /range tribute to ,cock]ell's g5]osity3 ,magna ,britannia victoriosa1 gloriosa1 b5e m]5s1 felix4 ,c>olus ,rob]tus ,cock]ell nobilis ,anglus et moribus et sci5tiis praecl>us me infelicem p]ditum ,g]maniae prolem1 primis diebus #ahae e ,morea b>b>is deportavit4 ,ad ,corfum de9de amicis meis ,anglis re/ituit et patriae advic9avit p] ,napolem univ]sum1 ,romae me secum duc5tem = duc5s humanit] semp] et nobili amicitia me tractavit a ,london1 ,old ,burl+ton ,/reet1 ,no4 #h1 nobilissimi p>5tes ipsum prog5u]unt dignissimum membrum magnae nationis et hom9em ubicunque ae/imatissimum ,pro gratia univ]sis ,anglis et ipsi ,c>olus ,re/] g]manus4 ,gallis m]5tibus1 ,britannia juncta ,g]manis felix ,auspicium semp] semp]que erit4 7,are ^! two la/ l9es elegiacs8--,,ed47 ,he arriv$ at ,bois le ,duc e>ly 9 ,m>* #ahaf1 & aft] an illness !re ( sev5 weeks1 writes to ,cock]ell to beg 8 assi/ance to get him ov] to ,engl&1 t he might be ! bett] able to sponge ^u him !re4 ,i nev] he>d :at became ( him aft]w>ds4 ,cock]ell !n 0 9 ,rome1 & "h he fir/ began to enjoy ! h>ve/ ( 8 lab\rs4 ,he says !re 7 no ,engli% !re at ! "t except ,lady ,we/morel&1 "m ( ! ,briti% m9i/] at ,flor5ce1 b !re 0 a l>ge society ( =eign arti/s1 into :i* he ?rew himself4 ,!re 7 ! bro!rs ,riep5haus51 pa9t]s2 ,s*ad[1 a sculptor f ,b]l92 ,+res1 :o drew 8 portrait2#di ,cornelius ( ,muni*1 & o!rs ( 8 s*ool2 ,kno]+1 a ,russian2 ,mazois1 au?or ( ,le ,palais de ,scaurus & an it9]>y ( ,pompeii2 ,catel1 a ,fr5* ar*itect2 ,?orwalds51 ,ov]beck1 ,vogel1 portrait pa9t]2 ,b>?oldy1 ,prussian consul-g5]al2 ,hess1 a pa9t] f ,vi5na2 ,canova1 & ,*ecc>9i1 :o did ! ,neptune & ,tritons 9 ! ,piazza del ,popolo at ! bottom ( ! drive up to ! ,p9cio4 ,! air ( ,rome 0 /eep$ 9 classicism4 ,9 ?is company e ev5t 0 describ$ 9 classical figures3 _! caf 0 ! ,caf ,greco1 :i* /ill exi/s2 ! front half 0 call$ ! ,pronaos4 ,!re all ! arti/ic _w collect$ & made acqua9tance4 ,if ,i 7 a little m va9 ,i %\ld be out ( my wits at ! att5tion paid me "h4 ,i h a daily levee ( savants1 arti/s & amateurs come to see my draw+s2 envoys & ambassadors beg to "k :5 x w be conv5i5t = me to %[ !m "s sket*es2 ,pr9ce ,poniat[ski & ! ,pr9ce ( ,saxe-,go?a beg to be p]mitt$ to see !m4 ,i say !y are slight1 & 9 tru? poor ?+s1 b at any rate !y 7 done on ! spot1 & !y1 ',c'e/ la ,grce enf91 c'e/ l le vritable pays4 ,ah1 ,monsieur1 que v\s tes heureux d'avoir p>c\ru ce beau pays6' ,!n ,i expla9 to !m "s con/ructions or beauties :i* !y don't und]/&4 ',ah1 que c'e/ m]veilleux1 mais v\s les publi]ez1 v\s n\s donn]ez le bonheur de les possd]1 mais ce sont des *oses =t intressantes1 enf9 c'e/ de la ,grce4' ,& 9 tru? publi%]s & read]s h be5 s long re/rict$ to ! ,roman antiquities1 :i* h be5 publi%$ & read ov] & ov] aga9 a ?\s& times1 t ! avidity = novelty is beyond measure1 & ,greece is ! fa%ion "h z ev]y:]e else4 ,!re is n a s+le ,engli% arti/ "h & only a few pass5g]s4 ,lady ,we/morel& is "o4 ,%e is a v clev]1 well-br$1 agreeable *att]]1 :o has be5 v civil to me1 & made me lose sev]al h\rs :i* might h be5 bett] employ$4 ,=tunately %e is go+ away4 ,i h sev]al lett]s = ! ,roman nobles1 b ,i h n pres5t$ !m t ,i may h my "t to myself4 ,s ,canova is gone to ,engl&4 ,i hope x is n to execute ! paltry monum5t ( ,"l ,nelson :i* he has publi%$ "h4 ,x w\ld be a disgrace to u all4 ,fancy ! great ,nelson z a ,roman 9 petticoats6 ,i d tru/ :5ev] a monum5t is erect$ to him x may be z orig9al1 national1 & *>act]i/ic z 0 ! man & ! great nation he sprang f4 ,e age hi!rto has _h +5uity en\gh to make its co/ume int]e/+ 9 sculpture2 we are ! fir/ :o h %[n su* pov]ty ( ideas z to despise our age & our dress4 ,i hope he w n be made too mu* ( 9 ,engl&4 ,x is true t nobody ev] work$ ! m>ble z he does1 & x is ?is f9i% ( 8 :i* has deceiv$ & captivat$ ! _w1 b x is no?+ b artificiality1 & !re is no nature ab\t x4 ,:5 he attempts ! sublime he is ludicr\s4 ,9 seek+ grace he is m successful2 b1 aft] all1 8 ,t]psi*ore 0 conceiv$ 9 ! ,palais ,royal1 & h] headdress is exactly ! late/ hairdress]s' fa%ion4 ,x is exasp]at+ to ?9k ( 8 success :5 ,flaxman1 z f> 8 sup]ior z ,hyp]ion to a satyr1 an arti/ look$ up to by ! s*ools ( ! ,cont95t z a great & extraord9>y g5ius1 is neglect$ by u because he is n a =eign]4 ,x is exce$+ly gratify+ to me to f9d ev]y?+ 9 my portfolio turn+ to acc\nt4 ,i _h ! pleasure ( %[+ to ,colonel ,cat9elli1 :o lately =tifi$ ,g5oa1 my =tifications ( ,syracuse1 & ! sket*es ,i made ( t subject 9 ,greece4 ,he assures me t !y are invaluable notices new to mod]n w>f>e1 & t !y prove t1 comp>$ to ! anci5ts1 we :o imag9e ourselves s well in=m$ on ! matt]1 "k no?+ at all4 ,!n ,i h above #aej inscriptions among my pap]s1 & ,i f9d mo/ ( !m are unpubli%$4 ,i h _h !m copi$ fairly1 & !y are n[ 9 ! h&s ( a great savant1 ,m4 ,ak]blad1 = 8 p]usal4 ,he promises to give me 8 notes on !m4 ,i d ?9k ,i h n made a bad use ( my opportunities1 if ,i may judge by ! int]e/ tak5 9 ! v>i\s new notices on diff]5t subjects ,i h br\ght ) me1 & ! flatt]+ consid]ation ev]y:]e %[n me1 ,i get s _m invitations1 & am s h>ass$ to %[ di/+ui%$ p]sons ( all nations my draw+s1 t ,i c get no "t to myself4 ,& 9 ord] to h some?+ to %[ ,i h be5 oblig$ to f9i% up "s ( my sket*es1 :i* has occupi$ ! :ole ( ! la/ two mon?s4 ,i h n[ a portfolio ( ab\t fifte5 ( "s ( ! mo/ int]e/+ sc5es 9 ,greece fit to %[1 & ,i g5]ally f9d !m z mu* z my visitors want to see4 ,f9d+ at la/ t my "t & occupations 7 too mu* infr+$ ^u by gaieties1 ,i left ,rome to seek m quiet 9 ,flor5ce4 ,i f\nd x at fir/1 & = m ?an six weeks 0 z busy z x 0 possible to be4 ,my life 0 a curi\s "o4 ,i rose e>ly1 & aft] work+ all day1 d9$ alone at a trattoria1 refus+ frequ5tly ?ree or f\r invitations 9 a day4 ,!n ,i slept ?ree or f\r h\rs on a s(a1 & rose 9 ! night to "w calmly until f\r or five 9 ! morn+1 :5 ,i took ano!r nap1 & rose at sev54 ,?is odd life got w9d2 & z ,i 0 a great deal kn[n "h1 ei!r by reputation or by "n & family1 ,i occasion$ a good deal ( wond]1 p>ticul>ly among ^? :o are a/oni%$ at anyone's occupy+ himself e>ne/ly except = a necessity4 ,! int]e/ 9 me 0 also increas$ r ?an dim9i%$ by my %yness :5 ,i did %[ 9 company4 ,i _h s mu* lo/ ! habit ( society by ! long soj\rn 9 ,turkey1 &1 look+ on x ) a new eye1 0 (t5 s disgu/$ ) ! follies ( x1 & %[$ my disgu/1 t ,i got a "* = be+ a cynic4 ,b in/ead ( tak+ (f5ce p only made ! m ( me1 & ,i 0 con/antly invit$ out1 m to gratify my ho/s' curiosity ?an to give pleasure to me4 ,to h travell$ 9 ,greece1 /ill m to h be5 a discov]] !re1 is en\gh to make a lion2 :ile ! fame ( my draw+s1 :i* few ( ! _m :o saw !m und]/ood & all 7 !re=e will+ to ?9k wond]ful1 complet$ ! bus9ess4 ,x 0 at ?is "t t ,i br\ght out my draw+ ( ! ,niobe & ! et*+s f x4 ,b4 ,b>?oldy1 ,prussian consul-g5]al 9 ,rome1 an intellig5t man & mu* int]e/$ 9 art1 _h travell$ up f ,rome to ,flor5ce ) ,cock]ell & made himself "o ( 8 mo/ intimate acqua9tances4 ,walk+ toge!r "o day 9 ! ,uffizi1 !y exam9$ ! gr\p ( ! ,niobe4 ,x is n[ neglect$ & =gott51 b 9 ^? days x occupi$1 9 ! e/imation ( arti/s1 ! place to-day held by ! ,elg9 ,m>bles4 ,) ! ,v5us de' ,m$ici1 ! ,apollo ,belv$]e1 & ! ,torso 9 ! ,vatican1 ^! /atues 7 reg>d$ z ! greate/ rema9s antiquity _h bequea!d to ! mod]n _w4 ,b1 priz$ & /udi$ z !y 71 ! purpose ( s _m figures1 evid5tly meant to /& toge!r1 _h nev] yet dawn$ on ! m9ds ( _! admir]s4 ,! figure ( ,niobe1 :i* is ! l>ge/1 _h be5 plac$ 9 ! middle1 & ! re/ 9 a circle r\nd h]4 ,x 0 felt inde$ t ?is c\ld n be "r1 b no "o _h any?+ bett] to sugge/1 & x rema9$ "o ( ! fav\rite puzzles = art lov]s to wrangle ov]4 ,into ! middle ( ?is cl\d$ /ate ( intellig5ces ,cock]ell dropp$ z f ano!r planet4 ,! exp]i5ce ( ! g9etan /atues1 :i* he _h arrang$ s labori\sly1 besides ! con/ant sight ( :at rema9$ ( ! ,p>!non & o!r ,greek monum5ts1 made ! notion ( a p$im5t or ,greek3 haetos s famili> z to pres5t itself to 8 m9d at once z ! only possible de/9ation = s _m /atues4 ,he says ! fir/ sugge/ion came on t occasion f ,b>?oldy4 ,i h told ,s*legel & all p>ties t x 0 fir/ propos$ by y2 to :i* ,b>?oldy replies3 ,j'aurai le plaisir de p\voir dire que v\s avez fait fructifi] un petit gra9 tomb de la ma9 d'un amateur des beaux arts qui sans cela s]ait re/ /rile4 ,b x 0 probably ! company ( ,cock]ell & ! associations ) g9a c4 :i* sugge/$ ! notion to ,b>?oldy4 ,at all ev5ts1 beyond t fir/ sugge/ion1 ,b>?oldy did no?+4 ,x 0 ,cock]ell :o measur$ ! /atues1 arrang$ !m1 prov$ ! case1 & made ! et*+ :i* hangs to ?is day 9 ! ,niobe ,room 9 ! ,uffizi ,gall]y1 %[+ ! arrangem5t :i* he propos$4 ,9 recognition1 h[ev]1 ( ! "p ,b>?oldy _h _h 9 x1 ! plate 0 d$icat$ to him4 ,= ! introduction ( ,cock]ell z a lion into society--if t be a ?+ to be desir$--?is discov]y 0 mo/ opportune4 ,he _h arriv$ ) a great reputation z a travell]1 a discov]]1 & unravell] ( age-long puzzles1 z 9 ! case ( ! ,temple ( ! ,giants1 & n[ "h 0 a pro( ( 8 p[]s exhibit$ 9 ! c5tre ( arti/ic ,europe4 ,i _h %[n my draw+ to sev]al p & among/ ! ambassadors & di/+ui%$ p]sons "h--all ( :om1 de rigueur1 m or less pret5d to und]/& ! arts--& x ga9$ univ]sal approbation4 ,x 0 talk$ ab\t by all1 & writt5 ab\t by ,demetrius ,s*9as & o!r obscure poets & prose writ]s4 ,i 0 flatt]$1 invit$1 & made mu* (4 ,our ambassador boa/s t ! solution has be5 prov$ by an ,engli%man2 o!rs b[ & beg to be all[$ to s5d copies ( my et*+ to _! ,gov]nm5ts1 to ,mett]ni*1 c4 ,x 0 =mally pres5t$ to ! ,gr& ,duke1 & ,i h receiv$ f ! ,academy "h a h&some lett] & diploma ( ,academician ( ,flor5ce4 ,x is to be publi%$ 9 ! (ficial "w on ! ,gall]y4 ,i h pres5t$ x myself to ,madame de ,/al1 & my fri5ds h s5t x to all p>ts ( ! ,cont95t4 ,he 0 n[ regul>ly laun*$ 9 ! fa%ionable society ( ,flor5ce4 ,! reign+ beauty at ?is "t1 ! c5tre ( all jollity & brightness1 0 ,lady ,dillon4 ,all ! "y m5 7 at h] feet1 & ,cock]ell 0 z deeply smitt5 z anybody4 ,z already m5tion$1 dur+ ! "t t he 0 9 ,syracuse he _h le>nt ! art ( cameo-cutt+4 ,he n[ made use ( x--or at lea/ ( ! prelim9>y /age1 :i* is to make a model 9 wax--to execute a highly f9i%$ portrait ( h]1 :i* /ill exi/s 9 ! possession ( h] desc5dants4 ,x %[s a head ( great beauty1 & is execut$ ) admirable skill & m9ut5ess4 ,! :ole ,engli% nation 0 n[ jubilant ov] ! success ( its army at ,wat]loo1 & 0 consid]+ ! rew>ds to be (f]$ to its idol1 ! ,duke ( ,well+ton4 ,he 0 to h a magnific5t palace1 surpass+ ! glories ( ,bl5heim1 & ar*itects 7 call$ ^u to give re9s to _! imag9ation 9 prep>+ designs 9 competition4 ,! celebrity :i* my fa!r _h by n[ made = himself obta9$ him1 ?r\gh ! m$ium ( ,"l & ,lady ,burgh]%1 8 fa/ fri5ds1 a =mal invitation to s5d 9 designs = ! ,well+ton ,palace4 ,! opportunity 0 ( c\rse magnific5t1 b no?+ he _h be5 do+ = ye>s _h 9 ! lea/ adapt$ him to take advantage ( x4 ,al?\gh my occupation 9 ! ,well+ton ,palace is a v hon\rable "o1 & ! /udy & ex]cise ( inv5tion 9 ! c\rse ( x may be pr(itable1 yet ,i _c help wi%+ ,i _h nev] be5 invit$ to give an idea = x1 = ,i h sp5t a va/ deal ( "t ov] x1 & x w add no?+ to my reputation1 ev5 if x does n detract f x4 ,if su* a design 0 difficult to ev]yone1 y may imag9e :at x 0 to me :o h nev] attempt$ any?+ orig9al be=e4 ,i consult$ e ar*itectural "w ( ,europe 7!y are all 9 ! libr>y "h71 & ,i w\ld h consult$ e pr(essional man ,i c\ld get at if !re _h be5 any "h ^: op9ion 0 wor? hav+4 ,!n ,i compos$ g5]al ideas1 & f9ally fix$ on "o :i* pleas$ ,mr4 ,nor? & sev]al o!r p]sons to :om ,i %[$ x2 b :5 ,i w5t into detail ,i f\nd ! difficulties increase immeasurably1 & ! notions :i* 7 plausible :ile !y 7 vague c\ld n be put into execution4 ,plan w\ld n agree ) elevation4 ,doors & w9d[s w\ld n come into _! "r places4 ,i inv5t$ r\ndab\t ways = simple ends4 ,9 fact ,i work$ furi\sly1 & = ! fir/ "t realis$ ! practical difficulties ( ! pr(ession4 ,at la/1 :5 ,i _h fill$ a portfolio ) sket*es & s*emes1 ,i complet$ a set & %[$ !m to ,"l & ,lady ,burgh]%1 :o said !y 7 pleas$ ) !m4 ,i began to feel t ,i _h too l>ge an acqua9tance 9 ,flor5ce--too _m visits & invitations4 ,my w\nd 81 ( :i* ,i did n get ! bett]1 conf9$ me1 & t made me g5]ally unwell & oblig$ me to g ?r\gh a c\rse ( physic4 ,altoge!r ,i got out ( he>t ) my "w & det]m9$ to get away4 ,i w5t to ,pisa = ! mon? ( ,july1 & except = visits f ,pig\ ,i 0 q alone4 ,!re ,i undid all ,i _h done be=e1 & f9d+ t to d ! ?+ well ,i %\ld ne$ m "t ?an ,i c\ld possibly give1 ,i det]m9$ to make "s small sket*es :i*1 prettily f9i%$1 might attract att5tion & %[ t ,i 0 9 "s sort capable4 ,f9ally1 ,i made "s sket*es & s5t !m ) an explanation to ,lady ,burgh]% & a reque/ to =w>d !m to ! prop] qu>t]4 ,! difficulties he _h enc\nt]$ ov] ^! draw+s s disgu/$ him ) ar*itecture t he seems to h ev5 propos$ to 8 fa!r to ?r[ x up & become a pa9t]1 z t1 he ?\ght1 0 ! pr(ession = :i* he 0 be/ suit$4 ,b ,mr4 ,cock]ell1 :o 0 a /eady bus9ess man1 _h no notion ( 8 son becom+ :at he w\ld h consid]$ a bohemian1 & refus$ to sanction any su* *ange4 ,! only ?+ to d1 !n1 0 to cont9ue 8 /udies4 ,! ,well+ton ,palace draw+s _h at any rate wean$ him ( any idea t pure ,greek ar*itecture 0 applicable to mod]n ar*itectural design+1 & he _h little k ( any o!r4 ,he />t$ = a t\r ( ! nor? ( ,italy4 ,8 lett]s conta9 few criticisms4 ,palladio1 probably z be+ mo/ ak9 to :at he _h hi!rto /udi$1 pleas$ him m ?an any o!r ar*itect4 ,9 ,v5ice he fell 9 ) ,/ackelb]g1 :o _h be5 home to ,russia :ile 8 travels 9 ,greece 7 /ill fre% en\gh to claim att5tion1 & _h be5 receiv$ ) e sort ( di/9ction4 ,he 0 n[ on 8 way back to ,rome to settle !re & br+ out ! v>i\s books he subsequ5tly publi%$4 ,! two jo9$ =ces1 & hav+ run ?r\gh all ! pr9cipal t[ns1 return$ s\?w>ds to ,flor5ce4 ,%ortly aft]1 9 company ) ,"l & ,lady ,dillon1 he w5t to ,rome4 ,he 0 n[ a recognis$ lion1 ev]y:]e ft$ & made mu* (4 ,b>?oldy writes ( him3 ,cock]ell e/ gt p> les femmes4 ,nev]!less he work$ h>d4 ,among/ o!r ?+s he f9i%$ ! draw+ ( ! ,=um ,romanum1 ! engrav+ ( :i* is well kn[n4 ,! ,du*ess ( ,devon%ire wi%$ to ins]t a r$uction ( x 9 h] ,virgil1 & writes to ?ank him = ! beautiful draw+ y 0 s good z to d = me4 ,he _h left also 9 ,rome ! bulk ( 81 & ,hall]'s1 draw+s = ! int5d$ book on ,greek ar*itecture4 ,^! he pick$ up1 & hav+ se5 all ! ar*itecture ,italy _h to %[ him1 he />t$ 9 ,m>* = ,engl&4 ,9 ,p>is he rema9$ "s little "t4 ,a lett] f 8 fa!r dur+ 8 /ay !re is wor? transcrib+ 9 "p4 ,i s5d a few h9ts z to :at y %\ld obs]ve 9 ,p>is2 n ?+s ( t high ord] to :i* y h s long be5 us$1 b yet important to /udy 9 ord] to supply ! luxuri\s indulg5ce s mu* covet$ by ! great "h1 by :om a complete k ( !m 9 _! pr(essors ( ar*itecture is expect$4 ,y h rais$ a "n "h s high t ev]y?+ 9 p]fection w be expect$ ( y2 at lea/ 9 all t relates to ta/e 9 ! arts1 & 9 all ! subord9ate degrees ( contrivances1 z well z 9 decoration4 ,! la/ is t :i* af=ds ! mo/ ext5sive employm5t1 & y w be surpris$ to f9d m importance atta*$ to ! decorations ( a salon ?an to ! build+ ( a temple4 ,if1 !re=e1 y c b5d to ! consid]ation ( :at is call$ ! 'fitt+s up' ( ! int]ior ( ! be/ hotels & palaces ( ,p>is1 ! graces ( _! meubles1 & ! h>mony ( _! col\rs 9 hang+s1 pa9t+1 & gild+1 y may be ! g5]al arbit] ( ta/e "h2 & z !re are v few p]sons :o are real judges ( compositions ev5 classical1 mu* less sublime1 & !re mu/ be few opportunities ( ex]cis+ ^? p>ts ( y\r /udies "h1 x w be really useful if y all[ y\rself to look at ^? m9or objects at ,p>is :i* 9 tru? !y judge well (4 ,p]ci]#ej is ! fir/ ar*itect 9 ,p>is2 he w tell y :at is wor? see+4 ,dismalt] ,jacob are ! fir/ decorators 9 furniture c41 #eg ,rue ,mesle4 ,y\r fri5ds ,"l ,burgh]% & ,"l ,dillon proclaim y\r "n )\t ceas+1 & mu* is expect$ ( y4 ,! ,duke ( ,gl\ce/] has comm&$ me to introduce y to 8 acqua9tance4 ,y h be5 spok5 ( at ,c>lton ,h\se1 :]e ,i h reason to ?9k !re is great likelihood ( y\r be+ notic$ advantage\sly2 b y mu/ n be disappo9t$ to f9d v common ?+s occupy+ ! m9ds ( a l>ge majority ( a nation ( b\tiqui]s1 & we mu/ take ! _w z we f9d x1 believ+ always t good s5se1 ref9$ judgm5t1 & true ta/e w ultimately prevail4 ,d n imag9e t ,i am ?9k+ ( money z ! only ?+ wor? y\r att5tion4 ,i consid] t z ! la/ object4 ,! fir/1 a high] ord] ( ta/e & in=mation1 y possess amply4 ,! second is to le>n to suit 9 "s measure ! times we live 9 & ! objects :i* occupy ! multitude1 & x is wor? att5d+ to4 ,! ?ird & la/ is ! pr(it :i* foll[s2 b t mu/ come ( itself1 & is n wor? pursu+4 ,y w ?9k me lectur+ to ! la/1 b ,i really mean no m ?an to express my hope t y w n despise trifles1 if elegant1 f9d+ y\rself = ! mom5t among/ a nation ( trifl]s1 because !y h long be5 consid]$ & imitat$ by ourselves & ! re/ ( ,europe z accompli%$ 9 matt]s ( ornam5t1 ?\gh n 9 subjects ( use4 ,y\r family are n[ on tiptoe = y\r arrival1 & daily dr9k _! affectionate good wi%es to ! homew>d b\nd4 ,none is beh9d ano!r 9 _! impati5ce2 = myself1 x is always pres5t to me4 ,nev]!less1 ,i am n selfi% en\gh to wi% y to leave unse51 = ! sake ( a few days m1 any?+ :i* y ought to be acqua9t$ )4 ,my fa!r arriv$ 9 ,london on ! #ag? ( ,june1 #ahag1 hav+ left x on ! #aj? ( ,april1 #ahaj4 ,besides 8 own1 he _h br\ght ) him all ,hall]'s draw+s = ! int5d$ book :i* 0 to be ! complete & f9al au?ority on ,greek ar*itecture & ! gr& result ( 8 sev5 ye>s ( travel4 ,hall] 0 to come to ,engl& to see x ?r\gh ! press4 ,_h x appe>$ at once x w\ld h be5 mo/ propos4 ,greek ar*itecture 0 all ! fa%ion4 ,unhappily1 ! int5tion 0 ?w>t$ by ! sudd5 dea? ( ,hall]1 :i* took place at ,ambelakia1 9 ! ,vale ( ,tempe1 ( a conge/ion ( ! lungs1 caught :ile mak+ excavations 9 ! mon? ( ,septemb] #ahah4 ,! loss ( ?is valuable help di%e>t5$ my fa!r1 :o _h no ta/e = ! "w4 ,he 0 already busy 9 o!r ways1 & ! task :i* %\ld h _h 8 fir/ att5tion gradually sank into ! backgr\nd4 ,"o by "o ^? :o _h tak5 "p 9 ! discov]ies di$3 ,/ackelb]g 9 #ahcf1 ,l9ckh & ,fo/] n _m ye>s aft]4 ,b ! book rema9$ a load on my fa!r's consci5ce all 8 life1 & x 0 n till #ahei1 m ?an =ty ye>s lat]1 t x saw ! light4 ,! int]e/ 9 ! ev5ts & actors _h di$ d[n1 & ! novelties _h become common prop]ty4 ,8 un=tunate dislike = writ+ lo/ him mu* ( ! cr$it he might h reap$1 :ile o!rs pr(it$ by 8 exp]i5ce4 ,8 collection ( inscriptions 0 pick$ ov] by ,walpole2 ,hughes fills out 8 pages ) 8 lett]s2 ,bron/$t uses 8 draw+s4 ,x is ,/ackelb]g :o relates h[ he discov]$ ! bas-reliefs at ,phigaleia2 ,beau=t anticipates any?+ he might h _h to tell ( ,k>amania2 ,wordswor? plund]$ 8 portfolio2 & 9 ! abs5ce ( any consecutive acc\nt ( 8 own1 x has be5 (t5 only by ! help ( ! writ+s ( o!rs t x has be5 possible = me to piece toge!r 8 disjo9t$ & (t5 undat$ di>ies4 ,,footnotes3 #di ,see frontispiece4 #ej ,*>les ,p]ci] 7#agfd-ahch71 orig9ator ( ! s-call$ ,empire /yle 9 furniture1 ar*itect ( ! ,arc de ,triomphe du ,c>r\sel1 & ( p>ts ( ! ,l\vre & ( ! ,tuil]ies4 ,,pr9t$ ,,by ,,spottiswoode ,,& ,,co4 ,,ltd41 ,,new-,,/reet ,,squ>e ,,london