,,the ,,journal ,,of ,c4 ,r4 ,,cockerell1 ,r4,a4 ,illustration3 ,c4 ,r4 ,cockerell ,,travels ,,in ,,southern ,,europe ,,and ,,the ,,levant1 #ahaj-ahag4 ,,the ,,journal ,,of ,c4 ,r4 ,,cockerell1 ,r4,a4 ,,edited ,,by ,,his ,,son ,,samuel ,,pepys ,,cockerell ,with a ,portrait ,,longmans1 ,,green1 ,,and ,,co4 #ci ,,paternoster ,,row1 ,,london ,,new ,,york ,,and ,,bombay #aijc ,all rights reserved ,,preface ,my father1 ,charles ,robert ,cockerell1 whose travels the following pages record1 was the second son of ,samuel ,pepys ,cockerell1 a man of some means1 architect to the ,east ,india ,company and to one or more ,london estates4 ,he was born on the #bgth of ,april1 #aghh1 and at a suitable age he went to ,westminster1 a fashionable school in those days4 ,there he remained until he was sixteen4 ,he was then set to study architecture1 at first in his father's office1 and later in that of ,mr4 ,robert ,smirke4 ,his father must have had a great faith in the educational advantage of travel1 as already in #ahjf1 when he was only eighteen1 he was sent a tour to study the chief architectural objects of the ,west of ,england and ,wales4 ,the sketches in the diary of this journey show him already the possessor of so light and graceful a touch in drawing that it is evident that he must have practised it from very early years4 ,this no doubt was followed by other similar excursions1 but his father's desire was that he should see foreign countries4 ,unfortunately1 in #ahaj most of the ,continent was closed to ,englishmen4 ,turkey1 which included ,greece1 was1 however1 open4 ,as it chanced1 this was a happy exception4 ,the current of taste for the moment was running strongly in the direction of ,greek architecture2 ,smirke himself had but lately returned thence4 ,when a scheme for making a tour there came to be discussed1 ,mr4 ,william ,hamilton1 then ,under-,secretary for ,foreign ,affairs1 an intimate friend of the family1 who had himself travelled in those parts1 took a great interest in it1 and offered to send him out as ,king's messenger with despatches for the fleet at ,cadiz1 ,malta1 and ,constantinople4 ,such an offer was too good to refuse4 ,no definite tour had been or could be marked out in the then existing conditions of ,european politics4 ,the traveller was to be guided by circumstances2 but nothing approaching the length of absence1 which extended itself to seven and a quarter years1 was contemplated at the time of starting4 ,as far as possible ,i have used my father's own words in the following account of his journeys2 but the letters and memoranda of a youth of twenty-two1 who disliked and had no talent for writing1 naturally require a great deal of editing4 ,his beautiful sketches form what may be called his real diary4 ,i should add that accounts of some of the episodes recorded in this ,journal have seen the light already4 ,for instance1 the discovery of the gina ,marbles and of the ,phigaleian ,marbles is narrated in my father's book1 ',the ,temples of gina and ,bass1' and in ,hughes's ',travels' as well4 ,stackelberg gives his own account of the excavations at ,bass in ',der ,apollotempel zu ,bass c4' ,so that ,i cannot flatter myself that the matter is either quite new or well presented4 ,but in spite of these drawbacks ,i have thought the ,journal in its entirety worth publishing4 ,sympathetic readers will find between the lines a fairly distinct picture of what travel was like in the early years of the last century1 and also the portrait of a not uninteresting personality4 ,,samuel ,,pepys ,,cockerell4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,i ,,page ,leaves ,london for ,plymouth--,the despatch vessel--,they take a ,french prize--,the prisoners--,an alarm--,cadiz--,malta--,life on board--,the ,dardanelles--,takes boat for ,constantinople #a ,,chapter ,,ii ,constantinople--,capture of the ,black ,joke--,life in ,constantinople--,its dangers--,friends--,audience of caimacam--,trip up the ,bosphorus #ac ,,chapter ,,iii ,constantinople continued--,dangers of sketching--,turkish architecture--,a ,turkish acquaintance--,society in ,constantinople--,visit to the ,princes' ,islands #bd ,,chapter ,,iv ,leaves ,constantinople--,by ,troy1 ,salonica1 ,mycone1 ,delos1 to ,athens--,life in ,athens--,acquaintances--,byron1 c4 #dj ,,chapter ,v ,trip to gina--,discovery and transportation of the ,marbles to ,athens--,efforts to sell them #di ,,chapter ,,vi ,life in ,athens--,eleusis--,transportation of gina ,marbles to ,zante #ei ,,chapter ,,vii ,zante--,colonel ,church--,leaves ,zante to make tour of the ,morea--,olympia--,bass--,discovery of bas-reliefs--,forced to desist from excavations #fh ,,chapter ,,viii ,andritzena--,caritzena--,megalopolis--, benighted--,kalamata #gi ,,chapter ,,ix ,trip to ,maina--,its relative prosperity--,return to ,kalamata-- ,second trip to ,maina--,murginos--,sparta--,napoli to ,athens #hh ,,chapter ,x gina ,marbles called for by ,british ,government ships--,leaves ,athens for ,crete and ,egypt with ,hon4 ,francis ,north--,canea--,condition of ,crete--,by land--,retimo--,kalipo ,christo--,candia--,audience of the pasha--,his band--,the archbishop--,the military commandant--,turkish society--,life in ,candia #ajb ,,chapter ,,xi ,expedition to the ,labyrinth--,delli ,yani--,the interior--,the return to ,candia--,life there--,rejoins ,mr4 ,north--,bad weather--,expedition to ,egypt abandoned--,scio--,leaves ,mr4 ,north to go to ,smyrna--,storms--,danger and cold--,arrives at ,smyrna #abj ,,chapter ,,xii ,life in ,smyrna--,trip to ,trios--,foster falls in love--,cockerell starts alone for town of ,seven ,churches--,pergamo--,knifnich-- ,sumeh--,commerce all in the hands of ,greeks--,karasman ,oglu--,turcomans --,sardis--,allah ,sheri--,crosses from ,valley of ,hermus to that of the ,meander--,hierapolis--,danger of the country--,turns westwards #acd ,,chapter ,,xiii ,back into civilisation--,nasli ,bazar--,nysa--,guzul--,hissar 7,magnesia7--,the plague--,aisaluck 7,ephesus7--,scala ,nuova--,a storm --,samos--,priene--,canna--,geronta--,kn idos--,rhodes--,mr4 ,north again--,sails for ,patara--,castel ,rosso--,cacava--,myra--,the shrine of ,st4 ,nicolas--,troubles with natives--,a water snake--,finica--,carosi-- ,olympus--,volcanic fire--,phaselis--,falls in with the ,frederiksteen #aec ,,chapter ,,xiv ,adalia--,satalia 7,sid7--,alaia--,hostility of natives--,selinty--,cape ,anemurium--,visit of a pasha--,chelindreh--,porto ,cavaliero--,seleucia--,a privateer--,natives hostile--,pompeiopolis--,tarsous--,a poor reception--,explores a lake--,castle of ,ayas--,captain ,beaufort wounded by natives--,sails for ,malta #agc ,,chapter ,,xv ,malta--,attacked by bilious fever--,sails to ,palermo--,segeste--,leaves for ,girgenti--,immigrant ,albanians--,selinunto--,travelling with ,sicilians--,girgenti--,restores the ,temple of the ,giants--,leaves for ,syracuse--,occupations in ,syracuse--,sale of the gina ,marbles--,leaves for ,zante #aii ,,chapter ,,xvi ,athens--,the excavation of marbles at ,bass--,bronstedt's mishap--,fate of the ,corinthian capital of ,bass--,severe illness--,stackelberg's mishap --,trip to ,albania with ,hughes and ,parker--,thebes--,livadia--,the five emissaries--,state of the country--,merchants of ,livadia--,delphi--,salona --,galaxidi--,patras--,previsa--,nicopol is--,arta--,the plague--,janina #baf ,,chapter ,,xvii ,ali ,pasha--,psallida--,euphrosyne--,mukhtar --,starts for a trip to ,suli--,cassiopeia--,unable to ford river--,turns back to ,janina--,leaves to return to ,athens--,crosses the ,pindus through the snow--,malakash --,a robber--,meteora--,turkish rule--,the monastery--,by ,trikhala1 ,phersala1 ,zituni1 ,thermopyl and ,livadia to ,athens #bce ,,chapter ,,xviii ,athens--,to ,zante for sale of ,phigaleian ,marbles--,returns to ,athens--,fever--,spencer ,stanhope--,trip to ,marathon1 c4--,ramazan --,living out in the country--,a picnic at ,salamis--,presented with a block of ,panathenaic frieze--,trip to gina--,leaves ,athens for ,italy #beb ,,chapter ,,xix ,naples--,pompeii--,rome--,the ,german ,rester got rid of--,social success in ,rome--,leaves for ,florence--,bartholdy and the ,niobe group--,lady ,dillon--,the ,wellington ,palace--,pisa--,tour in the north--,meets ,stackelberg again--,returns to ,florence and ,rome--,homeward bound--,conclusion #bfi ,,frontispiece ,,portrait ,,of ,c4 ,r4 ,,cockerell1 after a ,pencil ,drawing by ,j4 ,d4 ,,ingres4 ,,travels ,,in ,,southern ,,europe ,,and ,,the ,,levant ,,chapter ,i ,,leaves ,,london ,,for ,,plymouth--,,the ,,despatch ,,vessel--,,they ,,take ,a ,,french ,,prize--,,the ,,prisoners--,,an ,,alarm--,,cadiz--,,malta--,,life ,,on ,,board--,,the ,,dardanelles--,,takes ,,boat ,,for ,,constantinople4 ,i started from ,london on ,saturday1 ,april the #adth1 #ahaj1 with #bjjl4 in my pocket to pay expenses4 ,by the favour of ,mr4 ,hamilton ,i was to carry out despatches to ,mr4 ,adair1 our ambassador at ,constantinople1 so ,i had in prospect a free passage in fair security to the furthest point of my intended journey4 ,as my good friend and master in ,art1 ,mr4 ,r4 ,smirke1 accompanied me to ,salisbury1 we loitered there a little1 but for the rest of my journey1 night and day1 ,i lost not one moment4 ,nevertheless ,i had forgotten that when on ,government duty one has no business to stop at all anywhere1 and when ,i was cross-examined as to my journey by the ,admiral of the ,port at ,plymouth1 ,i felt extremely awkward4 ,on the morning following my arrival1 viz4 ,april #afth1 ,i embarked on board the vessel which was to carry me4 ,she was a lugger-rigged despatch boat1 hired by ,government1 named the ,black ,joke4 ,she was very old1 as she had been at the battle of ,camperdown in #agig1 but ,i was charmed with her neatness and tidiness4 ,we had ten guns1 thirty-five men1 one sheep1 two pigs and fowls4 ,the commander's name was ,mr4 ,cannady1 and we were taking out two young midshipmen to join the squadron off ,cadiz4 ,we did not set sail till the #aith4 ,once out in the open sea the two young midshipmen were very ill and so was our commander4 ,on the third day out1 ,sunday1 ,april #bbnd1 while we were at dinner the boatswain suddenly sang out1 ',sail ahead6' ,we ran up to see what it might be1 and the ship was pronounced to be a merchant brig4 ,at the same time1 to be prepared in case of deception1 all things were cleared for action4 ,it was not long before we came up with her1 and the master went aboard4 ,presently we heard the report of two pistols4 ,great was our astonishment1 and the expression of suspense on every face was a study till it was relieved by the voice of the master bawling through a trumpet that she was a ,british merchantman1 the ,frances1 from ,fiale 7sic71 laden with cotton1 figs1 and other things1 that she had been captured by a ,french privateer1 and was now our prize4 ,at these words the joy of the sailors was such as you cannot conceive4 ,when the master came aboard again we learnt that the two shots came from a brace of pistols which were handed to him by the captain of the ,frances when she was boarded1 and which he discharged for fear of accidents4 ,the ,french crew of eight men1 all very ragged1 was brought on board4 ,as they manifested some unwillingness at first1 ,cannady thought fit to receive them with drawn cutlasses2 but they made no sort of resistance4 ,with them came an ,english boy1 son of the owner of the ,frances1 and from him we got an interesting account of her being taken4 ,as his father had but a short time before lost another ship1 the boy showed a joy at this recovery which was delightful to see1 but he behaved very nicely about recommending the ,frenchmen to us4 ,they had treated him very well1 he said1 and were good sailors4 ,it was settled that the prize master should be sent with three or four men1 the master's mate at their head1 to ,plymouth4 ,i took the opportunity of sending a few words home1 and off she went4 ,with a fair wind she was out of sight in an hour4 ,as ,i was the only man in our ship who could speak a word of ,french1 ,i was made interpreter in examining the prisoners4 ,if the account they give is correct1 our sailors1 who are entitled to an eighth part of the salvage1 will share #c1fdel4 #ajs4 #h;d4 ,i took an early opportunity1 when ,cannady talked of our luck and anticipated more1 to assure him that the only good fortune ,i desired was a safe and quick passage to ,constantinople1 for fear he should think ,i was looking out for prize-money4 ,i don't know what my share would be1 if indeed ,i have any1 but if ,i find ,i have1 ,i shall consider how to dispose of it in a handsome way4 ,the poor ,frenchmen were very miserable1 and ,i1 partly out of pity1 and more because ,i wanted to practise speaking1 rather made friends with them4 ,they are very different from our men4 ,they lounge about anyhow in a disorderly fashion1 are much dirtier--in fact filthy1 so that our sailors complain of them loudly in this respect--and are much livelier4 ,i saw three of them sitting yesterday all of a heap reading ',tlmaque' 7fancy that67 with the utmost avidity1 and when they see me drawing1 they seem to crawl all over me to watch the operation4 ,my special friend is one ,esprit ,augin1 who appears to be superior to the rest and to speak better4 ,we talk together every day till ,i am tired4 ,in spite of his grief at being a prisoner--and he appeared to feel his position more than any of them--he began the very next day to talk to me of balls1 masquerades1 promenades1 and so on with inexpressible delight1 and ,i even thought at one moment that we should have had a pas seul on the deck4 ,he sang me no end of songs4 ,he was as vain as he was lively4 ,i told him ,i should like to make a drawing of a youth named ,jean ,requette1 a handsome1 clever-looking boy of the party2 at which he sighed deeply and said1 ',moi je ne suis pas joli4' ,amongst other things1 ,augin told us that he had great hopes of being set free again1 for that there were two ,french privateer frigates off ,ferrol2 and when we came off that point on ,sunday the #bith1 and ,i heard the boatswain sing out ',two sail ahead1' we made sure we had met them4 ,all glasses were out in an instant1 and sure enough there were two privateers4 ,too proud to alter it1 we held quietly on our course1 and they came quickly up with us4 ,we made the private signals to them1 but as the sun was low and just behind them we could not make out the answer or what colours they flew4 ,thereupon orders were given to clear for action4 ,in a moment all was activity4 ,the sailors stripped to their shirts4 ,the guns were run out4 ,greville and ,i loaded the muskets and pistols4 ,every man had his place4 ,mine was at the stern in charge of the despatches1 ready tied to a cannon shot1 to sink them in case of necessity1 and with orders to make the best use ,i could of the muskets4 ,we were all ready by the time the first of the privateers came within speaking distance of us4 ,there was a dead silence on both sides for a moment1 a moment of intense suspense1 then our commander spoke them1 and the answer1 to our delight1 came in ,english4 ,they were the ,iris and ,matchless privateers from ,guernsey on the look-out for the ,isle de ,france men going into ,bordeaux4 ,a boat came aboard us1 and ,i was not sorry that they should see our deck and that ,i knew how to take care of despatches4 ,it is wonderful how the animation of preparations for fighting takes away from the natural fear4 ,if ,i had had to look on without anything to do1 ,i should have been in a dreadful fright4 ,after this false alarm we went on to ,cadiz without any event1 beyond meeting with occasional merchantmen1 whom we always thought proper to board4 ,i could not go ashore at ,cadiz1 and ,i shall never cease to regret it2 but the orders of the naval authorities were peremptory that the lugger should proceed immediately with her despatches to ,malta4#a ,we deposited our prisoners with the fleet4 ,the next place the ,black ,joke touched at was ,gibraltar1 where she delivered letters and despatches4 ,she could only stay four or five hours1 but ,cockerell was able to go ashore4 ,as it was a market day1 the scene ,gibraltar1 and this was the first time he had ever been in a foreign country1 it is not to be wondered at that he was intoxicated with delight4 ,he gushes over it in the style of the very young traveller4 ,i like watching the sailors4 ,many of them are very fine fellows1 and ,i have nearly filled my book with drawings of them and the ,frenchmen4 ,self-consciousness had the most ludicrous effect upon them when ,i was doing their portraits1 and great rough fellows who you might think would eat horseflesh would simper with downcast eyes1 like a coquettish miss4 ,their ways of killing time are wonderful4 ,sometimes you see one whittling a piece of hard wood for some trifling purpose for hours and hours together4 ,at another time1 if an unfortunate little bird comes on to the vessel1 they run about the rigging damning its eyes till they are tired out4 ,there are some great singers amongst them1 who treat us in the evenings4 ,their taste is to sing about two hundred verses to the same tune4 ,i am told we have one highly accomplished1 who can sing a song of three hundred4 ,i only hope we shall never hear him4 ,we arrived at ,malta overnight and awaited despatches1 which we have received this morning4 ,everywhere the authorities are so solicitous that no time should be lost that we are sent on without mercy4 ,i am told the despatches we brought here were of consequence2 but1 like all postmen1 we know nothing of the contents of the letters we bring4 ,only we see that all rejoice and wish the commandant1 ,general ,oakes1#b joy4 ,i also hear that the ,french are advancing on ,sicily4 ,the harbour here is full of prizes4 ,a frigate came in this morning full of shot holes4 ,she had cut out a brig from ,taranto in the face of two brigs1 a schooner1 and a frigate4 ,from ,malta it took the ,black ,joke over a month to get to ,constantinople4 ,most of the letters written home during the time were sent back by the ,black ,joke on her return voyage4 ,it will be seen why they never reached their destination4 ,meanwhile some notes were despatched by other means1 and from them ,i extract the following3 ,we took a pilot from ,malta1 a decayed ,ragusan captain4 ,had ,i made but the first steps in ,italian as ,i had in ,french1 ,i might have profited by this opportunity as ,i did by the ,french prisoners2 for the man spoke no other language1 and was to direct us through a dangerous sea by signs and grimace as the only means of communication between us4 ,at first we had a fair wind1 but as we got nearer the ,morea it became less favourable and blew us nearly up to ,zante4 ,some ancient writer records the saying in his day1 ',let him who is to sail round ,taenarus 7,matapan7 take a last farewell of his relations2' and it is still dangerous1 on account of the eddies of wind about ,taygetus for one thing1 and on account of the cruel ,mainiote pirates for another4 ,we passed it securely2 but the story of an ,english brig of war having been boarded and taken by them while the captain and crew were at dinner1 and that not long ago1 put us on our guard4 ,we had nettings up at night1 and a sharp look-out at all hours4 ,i shall never forget how we made our entrance into the ,hellespont with sixteen sail of ,greek and ,turkish fruit-boats1 all going up to ,constantinople4 ,no yachting match could be so pretty as these boats1 tacking and changing their figures1 with their white sails1 painted sides1 and elegant forms1 as compared with our northern sea boats4 ,our superior sailing1 however1 was soon confessed1 and we went past them4 ,as we did so1 several goodnaturedly threw cucumbers and other fruits on board4 ,we cast anchor not far from the second castle near the northern side1 and put ashore to water where we saw a spring4 ,it was evening1 and under the shade of a fine plane tree1 by a pool lined and edged with marble1 before a fountain of elegant architecture1 sat on variegated carpets some majestic ,turks4 ,they were armed and richly dressed4 ,their composed1 placid countenances seemed unmoved at our approach4 ,one of them spoke and made me a sign to draw nearer4 ,i did so1 and with an air at once courteous and commanding he signed to me to sit near him and offered me a long pipe to smoke4 ,after some pause he put questions1 and smiled when ,i could not answer them4 ,by their gestures and the word ,inglis ,i saw they were aware of our nationality4 ,they looked approbation and admired the quality of my grey cloth coat4 ,after some minutes ,i rose and left them with a bow1 enchanted with their politeness1 and fancying myself in a scene of the ',arabian ,nights4' ,shortly after we were visited by our consul and his son4 ,we learnt later that they were ,jews1 but their handsome appearance imposed completely on us1 and1 in spite of the mixture of ,jewish obsequiousness1 their ,turkish dignity made us conceive a prodigious opinion of them4 ,the consul understood quickly that ,i was a milordo1 and taking from his pocket an antique intaglio he begged my acceptance of it with a manner ,i in my innocence thought ,i could not refuse4 ,i was anxious to show my sense of his courtesy by the offer of a pound of best ,dartford powder1 which1 after some pressing1 he accepted2 but at the same time added1 so far as ,i understood through the interpreter1 that he hoped ,i did not mean to pay him for his intaglio4 ,i was overcome with confusion1 shocked at my own indelicacy in giving so coarse an expression to my gratitude1 and ,i would have given worlds to have undone the whole affair4 ,of course my embarrassment was perfectly needless4 ,a little experience of them taught me that this was only the shallow finesse of the ,orientals1 and looking back ,i have laughed to think of my ingenuous greenness at that time4 ,the following day ,captain ,cannady and myself1 with my despatches and baggage1 the ,black ,joke not being allowed to approach the capital1#c embarked in a ,turkish rowboat with a reis and twelve men1 to go up to ,constantinople4 ,now for the first time ,i felt myself thoroughly divided from ,england4 ,the wind and current were against us1 and we were forced to put ashore early in the evening of the first day4 ,i pitched my tent on the shore opposite ,abydos4 ,it soon attracted the notice of an aga who appeared on a fine ,arab horse1 and sent a message to know who and what we were4 ,we made a fire and stayed there all night sitting round it1 and ,i felt as if ,i was at the theatre1 passing my first night on foreign soil among strange bearded faces and curious costumes lit up by the flames4 ,i refused a bed and slept on a rug1 but next day ,i thought ,i should have dropped with faintness and fatigue4 ,i soon got accustomed to lying on hard ground1 and1 in after times1 ,i have slept for many a three months running without even taking off my clothes except to bathe1 or having any other bed than my pamplona or my pelisse4 ,the second night we slept at ,gallipoli1 and altogether1 owing to the strong wind1 we were no less than five days getting to ,constantinople4 ,our ,turks were obliging and cheerful1 but had very little air of discipline1 and the work they did they seemed to do by courtesy4 ,the reis was a grave1 mild old man1 who sang us ,turkish songs4 ,we approached ,constantinople as the sun rose1 and as it shone on its glorious piles of mosques and minarets1 golden points and crescents1 painted houses1 kiosks and gardens1 our ,turks pulled harder at their oars1 shouting ',stamboul1 guzel azem ,stamboul6' ,the scene grew more and more brilliant as we drew nearer1 till it became overwhelming as we entered the crowded port4 ,nothing but my despatches under my arm recalled me from a sense of being in a dream4 ,in forty days1 spent as it were1 in the main1 in the sameness of shipboard1 ,i had jumped from sombre ,london to this fantastic paradise4 ,i left my boat and walked at once to the ,english palace with my despatches1 which ,i then and there delivered4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,the ,british fleet was at this time co-operating with the ,spaniards in defending ,cadiz against the ,french4 #b ,afterwards ,sir ,hildebrand ,oakes1 ,bart41 ,g4,c4,b4 ,served with distinction in ,india1 ,egypt1 ,america1 and elsewhere4 #c ,no ships of war were ever allowed up to ,constantinople in those days1 and1 indeed1 much later4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,constantinople--,,capture ,,of ,,the ,,black ,,joke--,,life ,,in ,,constantinople--,,its ,,dangers--,,friends--,,audience ,,of ,,caimacam--,,trip ,,up ,,the ,,bosphorus4 ,my first few days were spent in writing1 executing commissions1 and fitting out my good ,cannady1 who was to return with the answers to the despatches2 all as it turned out to no purpose1 for off ,algiers the poor old ,black ,joke was taken by two ,french privateers1 one of ten1 the other of eight guns4 ,becalmed off that place1 she was attacked on either side by these lighter vessels1 which1 with oars and a superior number of men1 had an irresistible advantage4 ,after being gallantly defended by ,cannady1 she was taken with the loss of several fine fellows1 and her guns dismounted in the discharging them1 for she was a very old vessel4 ,with her were taken a number of little ,turkish purses and trifles1 souvenirs to friends at home1 and two fine carpets ,i paid #cjl4 for1 which were to have made a figure at ,westbourne#d--;,i had made a present of the same kind also to our commander--and all my letters home and sketches made up till then4 ,mr4 ,adair#e and ,canning#f have been very polite1 and ,i have dined frequently at the ,palace1 and although this is not the sort of society ,i very much covet1 ,i find it so extremely useful that ,i cannot be too careful to keep up my acquaintance there4 ,mr4 ,canning1 of whose kindness on all occasions ,i cannot speak too highly1 has obliged me exceedingly in lending me a large collection of fairly faithful drawings of the interiors of mosques1 some of them never drawn before1 as well as other curious buildings here1 made by a ,greek of this place4 ,in copying them ,i have been closely employed1 as when ,mr4 ,adair leaves1 which will be shortly1 they will be sent off to ,england4 ,i had a scheme of drawing from windows1 but it has failed4 ,i find no ,jew or ,christian who is bold enough to admit me into his house for that purpose1 so ,i have to work from memory4 ,after having made a memorandum1 ,i develop it at home1 and then return again and again to make more notes1 till at length the drawing gets finished4 ,in arriving here just in time to take advantage of ,mr4 ,adair's firman to see the mosques ,i was most fortunate4 ,it is a favour granted to ambassadors only once1 and ,mr4 ,adair thinks himself lucky to get it before going away2 but ,i will tell you in confidence that ,i regret very little the impossibility of drawing in them4 ,they seem to me to be ill-built and barbarous4 ,lord ,byron and ,mr4 ,hobhouse#g were of the party4 ,the ,djerid1 a mimic fight with javelins on horseback1 now1 ,i believe1 entirely disused in ,turkey1 was still the favourite pastime of young ,turks1 and ,cockerell speaks of it as being constantly played on the high open ground or park above ,pera1 and of his going to watch it4 ,one day ,i was persuaded by an ,english traveller of my acquaintance to go a walk through ,constantinople without our usual protection of a janissary1 but the adventures which befell us in consequence made me very much repent of it1 and put me a good deal out of conceit with the ,turks4 ,we walked to the gate of the ,seraglio1 in front of which there is a piazza with a very beautiful fountain in it4 ,this lovely object was so attractive that ,i could not resist going up to it and examining the marble sculpture1 painting1 and gilding4 ,hereupon an old ,turk who guarded the gate of the ,seraglio1 offended1 ,i suppose1 at my presuming to come so near1 strode up with a long knotted stick and a volley of language which ,i could not understand1 but which it was easy to see the drift of4 ,i should have been glad to run away1 but in the presence of ,turks and other bystanders ,i resolved to fall a martyr rather than compromise my nation4 ,so1 waving my hand in token of assent to his desire for my withdrawal1 ,i slowly paced my way back with as much dignity as ,i could assume4 ,i heard my ,turk behind coming on faster and more noisy1 and ,i shall never forget the screwing up of the sinews of my back for the expected blow4 ,it did not fall1 or there would have ended my travels2 for1 either astonished at my coolness or satisfied with my assent1 he desisted4 ,a little further on1 in passing through the court of a mosque1 ,i was gazing at some of the architectural enrichments of it1 when ,i felt a violent blow on the neck4 ,i looked down1 and there was a sturdy little figure1 with a face full of fury1 preparing to repeat the dose4 ,he was of such indescribably droll proportions that in spite of the annoyance ,i could hardly help laughing4 ,i held out my hand to stop him1 and at the same time some ,turks luckily came up and appeased my assailant4 ,he was an idiot1 one of those to whom it is the custom among the ,turks to give their liberty1 and who are generally1 it appears1 to be found hanging about the mosques4 ,one more unpleasantness occurred in the same unfortunate walk4 ,as we were looking at some carpets1 ,i observed my servant ,dimitri growing pale2 he said he was so weak he could hardly stand1 and he thought he must have caught the plague4 ,i supported him out of the bazaar1 but afterwards kept him at arm's length till we got home1 sent him to bed1 changed from top to toe1 and smoked4 ,i was to have dined at the ,palace1 but sent and made my excuses4 ,meeting the ,english consul1 good old ,morier1 ,i refused to shake hands with him4 ,he1 however1 would have none of it1 laughed at me and carried me home to dinner quietly with him4 ,dimitri reappeared later on1 and all was well2 but the day is memorable as having been odious4 ,the usual sights of ,constantinople in #ahaj were the same as now--viz4 the dancing dervishes1 the howling dervishes1 the ,turkish bath1 and the ,sultan's visit to the ,mosque4 ,they are what every traveller has seen and every young one thought it his duty to give an account of1 and ,i shall not transcribe ,cockerell's description of them4 ,only the last can have been at all different from what may be seen now4 ,it was remarkable for the startling costumes of the janissaries1 and for the fact that instead of a fez1 the universal and mean headdress of to-day1 every ,turk wore a turban1 which made a crowd worth seeing4 ,the janissaries wore a singular cap1 from the centre of which sprang a tree of feathers which1 rising to a certain height1 fell again like a weeping willow and occupied an enormous space4 ,on these occasions about fifty of them surrounded the ,sultan with wands in their hands1 and no doubt had a very striking effect4 ,i have made several useful friends4 ,one is a brother artist1 the ,greek who did the mosques for ,canning4 ,we have paid each other several visits1 and become fairly intimate by dint of dragoman1 mutual admiration1 and what was a superb present from me1 a little ,indian ink and two ,english pencils4 ,he has been specially attentive in his visits here1 hoping1 as he confessed1 to find out some secret in the art from such a connoisseur as myself4 ,another is an old gentleman in a long grey beard1 who a few days ago walked into my room1 telling me he had been induced to call upon me by hearing of my great reputation4 ,he is an artist1 and ,i showed him my colours and instruments1 with which he was greatly delighted4 ,i have not yet returned his visit1 but ,i am shortly to do so1 and he is to introduce me to some houses out of which ,i can draw4 ,i have found a most elegant and useful friend in the ,sicilian ambassador1 who has many beautiful books and drawings4 ,the young men ,i chiefly live with are ,sir ,william ,ingilby2 ,foster1 an ,english architect1 and a most amusing youth2 and a ,mr4 ,charnaud1 son of a consul at ,salonica4 ,we meet at dinner very often1 but they are all1 even architect ,foster1 too idle to be companions any further than that4 ,if ,i chose ,i could make numbers of acquaintance among the ,greeks and ,armenians1 who all speak ,french4 ,their ladies are very agreeable1 but the information ,i should glean amongst them would not pay for the time4 ,canning is very much liked here among the merchants1 though they say they will never get such another man as ,adair4 ,for me he is rather too grand to be agreeable4 ,this is a most interesting time among the ,turks4 ,all is bustle and the sound of arms in every street4 ,the ,grand ,signor is going to the ,russian war next week4 ,his procession will1 of course1 be a grand sight1 but they despond throughout4 ,the ,turks have a prophecy that the empire will expire with the last of the line of ,mahomet1 and the present ,sultan has no children4 ,the number of troops passing to ,adrianople is incredible1 and such barbarousness and total absence of discipline could1 one would think1 never have been known even in the ,crusades2 but they are unbelievably picturesque4 ,a warrior disposed to defend his country 7for none are compelled2 only1 happily for the empire1 the ,turks are naturally inclined that way7 goes to the ,government and demands whatever he thinks will fit him out for the purpose4 ,he gets #bjj or #cjj piastres1 which is to find him in arms and ammunition4 ,these will consist of a brace of pistols1 a broadsword1 and a musket1 more often chosen for its silver inlay than for its efficiency4 ,he is confined to no particular dress4 ,he wears what he likes1 and goes when and how he likes4 ,the ,government finds him in provisions4 ,one may see them everywhere about1 reposing in small parties in the shade or near a fountain and looking like banditti1 which1 indeed1 if they catch you out of sight of the town1 they are4 ,they commit the most wanton cruelties and robberies in their march1 and at present there is no such thing as travelling in the country4 ,as you meet these independent ruffians in the street they look at you with the most supercilious contempt and always expect you to make way for them4 ,even yet the ,turks have not lost the air of invaders1 and look upon the ,greeks as conquered slaves1 while these feel it as strongly as if they had just lost their country4 ,the other day ,i went to sketch some antiquities under the walls4 ,in the garden of a poor ,greek we gathered some fruit for which we meant to pay1 but with the greatest kindness he pressed us to eat more1 and filled our pockets with cucumbers1 saying we were ,christians1 and he would take no money4 ,the ,english have the best reputation of any ,franks in this country4 ,in walking out the other day our guide was insulted by a drunken janissary4 ,on the man's answering him the janissary came up1 threatening him with his sword4 ,at this our man said he was surprised at such behaviour to an ,englishman2 but the janissary declared he was a ,frenchman1 and that unless he came and swept the street where he 7the janissary7 sat we should not pass4 ,fortunately another janissary came up1 who was not drunk1 and dragged him off1 or there is no knowing how the dispute would have ended4 ,i hear a great deal of ,sir ,sidney ,smith1 who1 on account of his gallant co-operation with the ,turks at ,acre1 has gained the ,english much credit4 ,any ,turk who has ever seen him is proud of it1 and whenever we meet a soldier the next question to whether we are ,english is whether we know ,sir ,sidney ,smith4 ,i always say ',yes1' to which they say ',buono4' ,the other day we overheard a ,turk saying that there were but two ,generals in the world--,sir ,sidney ,smith and the one-eyed captain 7,lord ,nelson74 ,the ,turks are so fond of ,sir ,sidney for his wearing a ,turkish dress1 as well as for his gallantry1 that he might do what he pleased with them4 ,on ,july the #cjth ,canning had his audience of the ,caimacam1 who is substitute for the ,grand ,vizir while the latter is away with the army4 ,i thought it my duty as an ,englishman to attend him to the audience1 and therefore went to his secretary to inquire if ,i was right in thinking so1 although no other of the ,english travellers did1 and ,i suppose ,canning thought ,i had done rightly1 for he did me the great honour of ordering that of the pelisses presented to the ,english gentlemen at the audience1 ,i should receive one of the four handsomest1 the others being of very inferior quality4#h ,we rode through the streets as before1 much admired by the populace1 who seemed1 in these narrow streets1 as though they would have fallen on us from the roofs on which they stood4 ,on our way we met quantities of soldiers straggling about the town1 waiting for the departure of the ,grand ,signor4 ,one of them1 who took care to let himself be well seen1 in bravado had run his sword through the fleshy part of his shoulder1 and held the hilt in the hand of the same arm4 ,when we saw it1 it had been done some hours1 for the blood which had escaped from the wound was clotted and dried4 ,we proceeded1 not to the ,sublime ,porte1 for that has been burnt1 but to a palace which the ,caimacam inhabits at present4 ,here we scrambled up a wide staircase in a crowd of ,turks and other intruders who had no business in our train4 ,the ceremony of the audience was very short4 ,the ,caimacam appeared amidst cries of ',marshalla6 ,marshalla6' ,then ,canning and he sat face to face and delivered their speeches4 ,i thought ,canning delivered his with a very manly good manner4 ,after the answer had been given1 coffee1 sweetmeats1 and essence were brought to our minister only1 and when we had each put on our cloaks we returned1 as before1 to ,pera4 ,i afterwards dined at the palace4 ,i have this moment heard that of sixteen fine sail of the line ,i lately saw in the ,bosphorus three are returned disabled4 ,the ,russians had but five1 and two corvettes1 yet they got the best of the engagement4 ,it only shows what the naval discipline of the ,turks is like4 ,buyukdere4--,here are the country residences of all the foreign ambassadors and merchants1 and hard by1 at ,therapia1 are the palaces 7such as they are1 for the ,turks allow them no colour but black7 of the ,greek princes4 ,i have taken a ride to see the scenes described by ,lady ,m4 ,w4 ,montagu#i about ,belgrade1 and in a gush of patriotic pride ,i sat down and made a careful sketch and plan of what ,i was told was her house4 ,when ,i had done it ,i found to my disgust that it had been built by her husband's successor1 ,sir ,richard ,worsley1#aj a very dull man1 whose house could interest nobody4 ,i had ,foster with me as companion4 ,we went in a boat up to the mouth of the ,black ,sea1 where it was very rough1 and in landing on one of the rocks ,i was in great danger4 ,,footnotes3 #d ,his father's home1 ,westbourne ,house1 ,paddington1 a country residence on the site of the present ,westbourne ,park4 #e ,the ,british ambassador1 afterwards ,sir ,robert ,adair4 #f ,stratford ,canning 7#aggf-ahhj71 afterwards ,viscount ,stratford de ,redcliffe4 ,secretary to the ,embassy at this time1 and later the well known ambassador to the ,porte4 #g ,john ,cam ,hobhouse 7#aghf-ahfi71 afterwards ,baron ,broughton ,best man at ,lord ,byron's wedding4 ,he was more than once a member of the ,government4 #h ,in every present from a ,turk to a ,christian there is something insulting implied4 ,when a foreign minister is to be introduced at the ,ottoman ,court the embassy is stopped in the outer apartment of the serai1 and when announced to the ,despot his literal expression is3 ,feed and clothe these ,christian dogs and then bring them into my presence4 ,such is the real meaning of the dinner and pelisses given to ambassadors and their suites4--,beaufort4 #i ,lady ,mary ,wortley ,montagu 7#afhi-agfb71 authoress of the famous ,letters4 ,her husband1 ,edward ,wortley ,montagu1 went to ,constantinople as ,british ,ambassador in #agaf4 #aj #agea-ahje4 ,traveller and collector of antiquities4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,constantinople ,,continued--,,dangers ,,of ,,sketching--,,turkish ,,architecture--,a ,,turkish ,,acquaintance--,,society ,,in ,,constantinople--,,visit ,,to ,,the ,,princes' ,,islands4 ,cockerell's mother had wished him to take out an ,english manservant with him1 but the common sense of the rest of the family had overruled this scheme4 ,he writes1 therefore1 speaking of a man he had engaged at ,constantinople3 ,as a servant ,i think ,dimitri will suit me very well4 ,he is well informed1 willing1 and civil1 knows all the countries ,i propose to visit1 is not extravagant1 and does not seem afraid of danger4 ,i must confess he is very small1 but so much the more is he subject to my fist4 ,the wages he asks are enormous--#fjl4 a year--but ,i think ,i shall get him for #del4 or #ejl41 and at that figure it will1 ,i think1 be worth while to engage him2 at any rate1 he will be better than such an ,english lubber as my mother proposed ,i should take1 who would have cost me more and have been of no use4 ,i find ,i am living now for rather over #gs4 #f;d4 a day1 servant included4 ,everything is at least as dear as in ,london4 ,the drawings ,i told you of are finished1 and ,i am now doing a set of palaces1 serais1 c41 but the difficulty and really the danger ,i have had to incur to do them you would not believe4 ,as for insult1 a ,christian has always to put up with that4 ,perhaps the ,turks1 pressed as they are by the ,russians1 were never in a more sensitive or inflammatory condition than at present1 nor the country under less discipline and order4 ,in consequence they are more insolent to1 and more suspicious of foreigners than usual4 ,the other day ,i was in the upper part of a shop making some memoranda of a curious fountain while my servant waited below in a coffee-house4 ,he assured me that no less than forty ,turks came in1 one after another1 to ask who was that infidel1 and what he might be doing there4 ,again1 ,i offered some bostangis from five to ten piastres to admit me into a kiosk of the ,grand ,signors1 now never used4 ,the poor men trembled at the risk1 but they took us1 and we were obliged to steal along as they did1 more as if we were going to commit a burglary than visit a deserted palace4 ,as we were rowing to it we saw a soldier armed at all points1 with his arms bare--a savage figure--rowing by the ,greek and ,armenian houses at the water's edge4 ,my servant knew his occupation well4 ,he was searching after some open door through which he could get into a house1 and1 if he found the master of it1 he would demand a hundred or two piastres1 saying he had occasion for the money as he was going to the wars4 ,the poor man would have had to submit2 to kill such a robber1 even if he could1 would be to incur the vengeance of all his regiment1 with the risk of getting his house and half the neighbourhood burnt down4 ,the ,greek tavern-keepers dare not open their doors now1 for these scoundrels swagger in and eat and drink and refuse to pay4 ,the ,turks themselves1 however1 are enthusiastic about the army4 ,i saw the other day1 as a colonel of one of the regiments was passing through ,tophana1 the people rushing forward to bless him1 and kissing the hem of his garment4 ,they like fighting and1 ,i may add1 blood1 and cruelties to their fellow-men2 although to animals they are remarkably humane4 ,the number of people with slit or otherwise injured noses is a thing one cannot help remarking4 ,the other day ,i saw one man who had patched his1 which was still unhealed1 with cotton1 and he was fanning away the flies from it4 ,when ,i walked up to the gate of the ,seraglio to see the five tails#aa hanging up1 there was the block of stone on which the heads of offenders are put1 and the blood still there4 ,to architecture in the highest sense1 viz4 elegant construction in stone1 the ,turks have no pretension4 ,the mosques are always copies of ,santa ,sophia with trifling variations1 and have no claim to originality4 ,the bazaars are large buildings1 but hardly architectural4 ,the imarets1 or hospitals1 are next in size 7there are about fifty of them in ,constantinople1 in which ,d',ohson says #cj1jjj people daily are fed71 but neither have they anything artistic about them4 ,the aqueducts1 finally1 are either reparations or imitations of old ,roman work4 ,these are all the buildings of a permanent character4 ,the dwelling-houses have the air of temporary habitations4 ,they are constructed mainly of wood1 and are divided into very few chambers4 ,turks eat and drink1 live and sleep in one room4 ,the sofa is their seat and their bed1 and when that is full they lay quilts1 which are kept in every room in cupboards1 on the floor1 and sleep about in them half dressed4 ,as ornaments to the walls they hang up their arms4 ,they live in this way even in the highest ranks4 ,the men have no desire for privacy1 and the women's apartments are altogether separated off4 ,the space covered by each house is what we should consider immense4 ,it has usually only one storey--never more than two4 ,the ground floor1 used for stables1 storage1 and offices1 stands open on columns4 ,a staircase1 often outside1 leads up to an open balcony1 out of which the effendi's apartments open4 ,these seldom consist of more than three--one for audience and for living in2 another for business1 the secretary1 c42 and the third for upper servants1 the preparation of coffee1 pipes1 c4 ,the harem1 as ,i said1 is parted off by a high wall with a separate court1 garden1 and1 often1 exit to the street2 but all one sees of a house outside is generally a high wall and a capacious door into a court with a hoodwink shade over it1 and the gentlemen's apartments hanging over one end of the premises4 ,sometimes there is a kiosk leading out of the gallery to a rather higher level when there is a view to be got by it1 but externally there is nothing pretending to architectural effect in the private house of a ,turk4 ,the really ornamental buildings in which anything that may be called ,turkish architecture is displayed1 are the fountains and the grand kiosks or summer residences4 ,the fountains are commonly square reservoirs1 the four sides enriched with marble1 carved1 panelled1 and gilt1 with all the resources of genuine ,turkish taste4 ,the forms are generally flowers and fruits and texts from the ,koran1 with perhaps an inscription in memory of the founder1 such as ',drink of my limpid waters and pray for the soul of ,achmet4' ,the tank is covered with a dome and gilt cullices with great eaves which cast a broad shade over anyone who comes for water or repose4 ,but the most charming things are the kiosks4 ,you can imagine nothing slighter than their architecture is4 ,they are entirely of wood1 and even the most extensive are finished in about two months4 ,they display the customs of the ,sultans1 and they are such as you might imagine from reading the ',arabian ,nights'--golden halls with cupolas1 domes and cullices hanging over pools of water1 with fountains and little falls of water1 all in the genuine ,turkish taste4 ,moreover1 although it is a subject no one has hitherto condescended to treat of1 they do show an artistic taste in the cheerful disposition of their apartments1 gardens1 courts1 and fountains1 which is worth attention4 ,the rooms are all so contrived as to have windows on two sides at least1 and sometimes on three1 and the windows are so large that the effect is like that of a glass-house4 ,the ,turks seem to be the only people who properly appreciate broad sunshine and the pleasure of a fine view4 ,unfortunately1 the ,turkish1 which is something like the ,persian style1 only appears in the architecture4 ,as to decoration1 ,i was bitterly disappointed to find that now they have no manner peculiar to themselves of ornamenting these fanciful interiors4 ,they are done in the old ,french crinkum-crankum 8 ,louis ,,xv4--,ed4 style by rascally renegades1 and very badly4 ,on a green lawn1 in a shady valley partly surrounded by fine trees1 partly hanging over the ,bosphorus to catch the cool of the sea-breeze1 there stands one of the kiosks of the ,sultan1 a real summer-house consisting of one room only1 with several small entering rooms for the ,sultan1 one for his suite and some small ones for service4 ,this is known as the ,chebuble kiosk4 ,in the valley near are various marble columns put up to commemorate shots made by the ,grand ,signor in practising at a mark4 ,another we saw was the serai of the ,sultan's sister4 ,it was at the peril of the poor gardener's head1 and ,i was obliged to bribe him well for the sight4 ,i was able to make a running sketch of the place1 and to glance at the furnishing1 which was all newly done up for the ,sultana's reception4 ,the sofas were all splendidly embroidered by native work-people1 and there was a magnificent profusion of ,lyons silk1 the colours and the gilding on the ceilings and walls as brilliant as you can imagine4 ,one room was entirely1 as ,i was told1 of gold plaque4 ,there was frosted and embossed work as a relief to the colours1 and the effect1 if very gaudy1 was striking4 ,generally this sort of splendour in ,turkey is expended on the carved ceilings1 but in this case the sofas and window frames were as rich as the rest1 and the niches with shelves for flowers on either side of the entrance4 ,the baths1 which form a principal feature in every serai1 are very elegant here4 ,the pavement1 the fountains1 and the pillars are all marble1 and carved and gilded and painted besides4 ,but the apartment which gave me most pleasure is the reception hall4 ,it has something the form of a cross1 with a great oval centre which is #gb feet by #ea feet1 and to the extremities1 looking1 one on the garden1 the other on the port1 the range is #aad feet by #aje feet4 ,i do assure you the effect of the room1 with its gorgeous ceiling and the suspended chandelier1 is enchanting--quite one's ideal of what ought to be found in the ,oriental style4 ,i am told that the ,sultana entertains her brother here by displaying all the beauties of her household4 ,the most lovely girls are assembled here to dance1 and the ,sultan watches them from a window with a gold grating4 ,when ,sbastiani#ab assisted in the defence of ,constantinople1 at the time of ,admiral ,duckworth's forcing of the ,dardanelles1 the ,sultana invited his wife here and received her with the greatest honours4 ,on landing from her boat she was passed through a crowd of eunuchs richly dressed in gold and silk1 and on entering the house she found the staircase lined with the most beautiful young women1 who handed her up to the presence of the ,sultana1 where she was entertained with sweetmeats1 dancing1 c41 as was ,lady ,mary ,wortley ,montagu4 ,near this serai1 and communicating with it1 is the palace of the ,pasha to whom this ,sultana was married2 and his living here is an extraordinary exception to the rule1 which is that the husband of a ,sultana should never be allowed to live within twenty miles of the capital--for political reasons1 no doubt4 ,when it is her pleasure to see him she sends him a note in a pocket handkerchief1 the corners of which are folded over with a seal1 so that it makes a bag4 ,sometimes the invitation is conveyed by a hint3 a slave is sent by the passage of communication to open the door of his apartment1 which the ,pasha would perfectly understand4 ,the other parts of the palace are entirely for the use of slaves4 ,there are1 as appears to be usual in ,turkish palaces1 several escapes1 and to these ,i looked with peculiar interest2 since1 if we had been caught1 there is no knowing what might have happened to the poor gardener1 or1 for the matter of that1 to myself4 ,however1 we were not interrupted1 ,i paid him #cj piastres and we slunk away together4 ,we had not got home1 however1 before we met the boats of the ,sultana1 which1 if we had stayed there ten minutes longer1 might have surprised us4 ,it is not easy to get into any intimacy with ,turks2 but if ,i have not seen much of their society1 ,i have seen more than any of my fellow-travellers have4 ,with those who have no manners at all it is not difficult to get acquainted4 ,for instance1 an imam 7priest71 a neighbour of ours1 often drops in at the dinner hour1 taking compassion on me when ,i am alone4 ,he plays at billiards1 drinks and swears1 and is very troublesome2 but he has a great respect for my art1 and my plans above all things excite his astonishment4 ,i scraped acquaintance1 too1 with a ,turk architect1 in the hope of getting to see more palaces2 but he also is too great a rogue to keep company with1 for he gets drunk and stabs his friends2 and as for his art he is not worth cultivating for that1 for it is confined to the chisel and mallet4 ,and his promises are false promises2 for with all my hopes ,i have never got him to show me anything4 ,my specimen friend hitherto is ,beki-,beki ,effendi1 who seems to be a real ,turkish gentleman4 ,he had been brought up in the ,seraglio as one of the attendants on the ,grand ,signor1 and his manners struck me as very fine1 having a cheerfulness and regard for his visitors1 mixed with great dignity4 ,my host1 who has already shown me great kindnesses1 presented me to him and explained my mission4 ,he expressed himself much pleased to be made acquainted with an ,english traveller1 hoped ,i was well1 liked ,constantinople1 c41 and presented me with a little bottle of oil of aloes1 the scent of which was nice4 ,we smoked1 ate sweetmeats1 and conversed by interpreter1 and after two mortal hours' stay 7conceive such a visit67 were preparing to go when his father-in-law arrived4 ,i was told it would be grossly impolite to persist in going1 so we stopped on4 ,beki sent his slaves forward to usher in the new arrival1 and then stood in a particular spot and position to receive him1 and touched his garment with his hand1 which he then kissed4 ,he then paid him the highest marks of attention1 inquired after his health1 c4 ,the father then walked upstairs1 attended by two slaves1 one on each side holding him under the arm1 as if assisting him1 although he was not at all old4 ,we stayed another half-hour1 and then at last tore ourselves away4 ,in return for taking me to see a certain palace1 ,beki begged me show him the ,english embassy4 ,he accordingly called on me on an appointed day at ten o'clock4 ,taking a hint from my host ,i had a breakfast prepared which we should call a solid dinner2 and a parasite living in the inn1 a common animal in these countries1 assisted my party4 ,my visitors made a big day of it1 and got very merry over their fare1 drinking copiously of rum punch1 which1 as it is not wine1 is not forbidden to the ,mussulman1 and at the end paid me a string of compliments4 ,i presented my visitor with one of those new phosphoric contrivances 8 a tinder-box4--,,ed41 and never was an effendi more delighted4 ',if you had given me a casket of jewels1' said he1 ',i should not have been better pleased4' ,we walked up to the embassy and sauntered about the rooms4 ,what best pleased ,beki were the pictures of the ,king and ,queen1 which he pronounced very beautiful 7,chouk ,guzul71 and the cut-glass chandeliers2 but the few windows seemed dull to his ,turkish taste4 ,we got home and regaled again1 and on his proposal to retire1 ,i returned him his compliment and begged him to stay and sleep1 which ,i am happy to say he refused1 for where we should have stowed him ,i know not4 ,so passed an idle1 odious day4 ,i was worn out with trying to do the agreeable through an interpreter1 but--,i had seen a ,turkish gentleman4 ,and when ,i reflect upon him1 ,i cannot help feeling that1 as a contrast to what ,i am accustomed to1 there was something very fascinating about him4 ,i have been used to see men slaves to their affairs1 still wearing themselves with work when they possess every requisite of life1 and not knowing how to enjoy the blessings their exertions have procured them4 ,whereas here was a man who calmly enjoyed what he had1 doing his best to make himself and those around him happy4 ,with any but absolute paupers contentment is the common frame of mind in this country4 ,the poor tradesman in the bazaar works his hours of business1 and then sits cross-legged on his shop-board and enjoys his pipe like an emperor4 ,there is no mean cringeing for patronage4 ,the very porters in their services have an air of condescension1 and never seem to feel inferiority4 ,the climate1 of course1 has a great deal to do with it4 ,one may sleep in the open air most of the year1 and if one does little work1 a bit of water-melon and slice of bread dipped in salt and water is an excellent repast4 ,temperance is hardly a virtue where rich food could only make one unwell4 ,whatever be the attraction--the tenets of the ,faith1 or the leisurely life1 or the desire to live in ,turkey without the inconveniences of nonconformity--conversion to ,mahommedanism is a very common thing4 ,i have met several ,french renegades1 and some ,english have been pointed out to me4 ,our frigates have frequent quarrels with the ,turks on this head2 and even of the ,spaniards1 who are supposed to be so bigoted1 an incredible number turned ,turks at the time that their ships of war first came up here4 ,as for society amongst the foreigners1 diplomatic and others1 although there is a complete ,frank quarter1 and it is said to have been at one time very pleasant1 there is hardly any now4 ,for one thing1 in these times of general war1 the ministers of countries at variance at home now hold no communication1 nor do their families2 in the case of the ,french this is by a peremptory order of their ,government4 ,so there is little meeting and next to no entertainment1 and for lack of other amusement a vast deal of scandal1 of mining and countermining of each other's reputations1 with the result that they come to be nearly as mean in character as they try to make each other out to be2 and another reason is that among the merchants who formerly vied in magnificence with the ministers1 there is now great distress1 and hardly one could give a decent dinner4 ,their ships lie rotting in the ports1 and the hands1 ,ragusans mostly1 hang about gnawing their fingers with hunger4 ,among the few families one could visit was that of the ,charnowskis1 ,poles1 the ladies of which are the admired of all the ,english here1 and especially of my two companions1 ,sir ,w4 ,ingilby and ,foster1 who have fallen completely under the thumbs of these beautiful sirens4 ,i saw enough of them to feel compassion for my friends and almost to need it myself4 ,another family we know1 of the name of ,hubsch1 who are amusing4 ,the ,baron1 as he styles himself1 is a sort of minister of a number of little ,powers which have no earthly relation with the ,turks1 as ,denmark1 ,prussia1 ,norway1 c41 and as he hoists all their flags over his house1 the ,turks believe him to be a very mighty person4 ,he affects to be in the secrets of all the ,cabinets of ,europe1 and assumes an air of prodigious mystery in politics4 ,he is banker and manager of all things and all persons who will be imposed upon by him4 ,i imagine him to be a regular adventurer2 but adventurers are common in ,constantinople4 ,it seems to be one of their last resorts4 ,from notes in a sketch-book it appears that in the interval between the writing of this letter and the next1 which is dated from ,salonica1 my father made an expedition to the ,princes' ,islands1 in the ,sea of ,marmora1 in company with ,foster and a ,mr4 ,hume1#ac who had lately returned from ,egypt4 ,his object in going was chiefly to visit the scene of the death of his cousin1 ,george ,belli1 ,r4,n41 lieutenant of the ,royal ,george1 who was killed with four sailors of ,admiral ,duckworth's fleet in attacking a monastery held by some ,turks on the ,island of ,chalcis4 ,an entry made on the same day gives one some idea of ,turkish misgovernment4 ,on the ,princes' ,islands they have lately discovered an excellent earth for making crockery2 but they dare not use it1 for fear the authorities should get ear of it and heavily tax them4 ,with such encouragement to industry1 no wonder that ,turkey should be bankrupt4 ,a man's career is immensely influenced by his personal appearance4 ,my father's passport1 made out at this time at ,constantinople for his voyage in the ,levant1 gives1 as was usual in those days1 for identification1 a description under several printed heads1 as stature1 face1 eyes1 c41 of the bearer4 ,it is a large form printed in ,italian1 beginning ,noi ,stratford ,canning ministro plenipotenziario di sua ,maest il re della ,gran ,bretagna1 and so on presently to ,cockerell's name and the date1 #h ,september1 #ahaj4 ,at the bottom is the description--,statura1 mezzana2 viso1 triangolare2 occhi1 negri e splendenti2 naso1 fino2 bocca di vermiglia2 fronte1 di marmo1 and below in somma ,apollo lui stesso4 ,this was ,canning's jocose extravagance4 ,nevertheless it indicates that the bearer possessed a fortunate exterior1 which had probably something to do with the good reception he generally met with in society throughout his life4 ,,footnotes3 #aa ,horse-tail standards1 the symbols of the sultan's rank4 #ab ,franois ,horace ,bastien ,sbastiani 7#aggb-ahea71 a ,corsican adherent of ,napoleon1 under whom he rose to be general of division4 ,in #ahjf he was sent as ,ambassador to ,constantinople4 ,later he fought in ,spain1 ,austria1 ,russia1 ,germany1 and ,france in #ahad4 ,after the fall of ,napoleon he took service under the ,bourbons1 was ,minister of ,marine and ,minister for ,foreign ,affairs under ,louis ,philippe1 ,ambassador to ,england1 #ahce-ahdj1 and was made finally a marshal of ,france4 #ac ,joseph ,hume 7#aggg-ahee71 a ,scotchman of humble origin4 ,having made money in ,india1 he took to political life1 sat in ,parliament for various constituencies1 and for thirty years was leader of the ,radical party4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,leaves ,,constantinople--,,by ,,troy1 ,,salonica1 ,,mycone1 ,,delos1 ,,to ,,athens--,,life ,,in ,,athens--,,acquaintances--,,byron1 ,,etc4 ,about the middle of ,september1 ,cockerell1 with ,ingilby#ad and ,foster1 set sail for ,greece4 ,they stopped on their way to pay a visit to the ,plain of ,troy4 ,the facilities for travelling nowadays have made us calmly familiar with the scenes of the past1 but in #ahaj to stand upon classic ground was to plant one's feet in a fairyland of romance1 and a traveller who had got so unusually far might well permit his enthusiasm to find vent4 ,when ,cockerell was pointed out the tomb of ,patroclus1 he took off his clothes and1 in imitation of ,achilles1 ran three times round it1 naked4 ,thence they went by ,tenedos and ,lemnos to ,salonica4 ,nothing in the notes of this journey is worth recording except perhaps the mention he makes of ,tenedos as being still in a state of desolation from the cruel ,russian attack upon it in the year #ahjg4 ,i ought to give you a notion of the political state of this part of the country4 ,ali ,pasha of ,yanina rules over the ,morea1 ,albania1 and ,thessaly nearly up to ,salonica1 while the ,pasha of ,serres has ,salonica and ,macedonia nearly up to ,constantinople1 and both are practically independent of the ,porte1 obeying it or assisting it only as far as they please4 ,now1 ,ali ,pasha has sent his son ,veli with #ae1jjj men to join the ,sultan's army against the ,russians1 but he on his way has encamped near ,salonica and threatens to take possession of it4 ,the ,bey accordingly pays every sort of court to him1 and sends out presents and provisions to mollify him4 ,in the meanwhile the ,sultan has given to another pasha a firman to take the ,morea in ,veli ,pasha's absence1 and he 7,veli7 is now waiting for his father ,ali's advice as to whether he should proceed to the war1 recover the ,morea1 or take ,salonica4 ,fancy1 what a state for a country to be in6 ,the ,sultan is a puppet in the hands of the janissaries1 who on their side are powerless outside the city1 so that the country without and within is in a state of anarchy4 ,the party took a passage from ,salonica to ,athens in a ,greek merchantman4 ,we passed ,zagora1 until lately a rich and prosperous commercial town1 but it has been taken by ,ali ,pasha and he has reduced it to utter ruin4 ,off ,scopolo a boat came out and fired a gun for us to heave to4 ,the crew told me she was a pirate1 but when we fired a gun in return to show that we also were armed1 the crew of the boat merely wished us a happy journey4 ,the wind falling light1 we anchored in a small bay and landed1 and there we made fire in a cave and cooked our dinner4 ,it was most romantic4 ,after touching at ,scyros1 we put into ,andros4 ,while our ship was lying here in the port our sailors became mutinous4 ,they began by stealing a pig from the land1 and then went on to ransack our baggage and steal from it knives1 clothes1 and other things4 ,all this happened while we ourselves were on shore1 but our servants remonstrated1 whereupon the scoundrels threatened to throw them overboard4 ,there was nothing for us to do but apply to the ,english consul for protection4 ,he sent for the chief instigator of the troubles1 but he1 as soon as he got ashore1 ran away and was lost sight of4 ,under the circumstances1 what we did was to deduct from the captain's pay the value of our losses and shift our goods from on board his vessel into another boat1 a small one1 in which we set sail for the island of ,tinos4 ,we slept at ,san ,nicolo on the bare ground1 having made ourselves a fire in a tiny chapel4 ,fop1 my dog1 fell into a well and was rescued with great difficulty4 ,one of the peasants1 who had never seen anything like a ,skye terrier before1 when he saw him pulled out took him for a fiend or a goblin1 and crossed himself devoutly4 ,we sailed in the open boat all through a very stormy day1 and arrived at last at ,tinos 7the town71 thoroughly chilled and wet4 ,the island1 once highly prosperous1 is now poor and depopulated4 ,from ,tinos we sailed across to ,great ,delos 7,rhenea71 slept in a hut1 and next day went on to ,little ,delos4 ,here there was nothing to sleep in but the sail of the boat1 and nothing to eat at all4 ,everything on the island had been bought up by an ,english frigate a few days before4 ,we were obliged to send across to ,great ,delos for a kid1 which was killed and roasted by us in the ,temple of ,apollo4 ,i spent my time sketching and measuring everything ,i could see in the way of architectural remains1 and copying every inscription4 ,i had to work hard1 but without house or food we could not stop where we were1 and in the evening we sailed to ,mycone4 ,next day ,i went back to ,delos1 and after much consideration resolved to try to dig there4 ,i had to sleep in the open air1 for the company of the diggers in the hut was too much for me4 ,first ,i made out the columns of the temple and drew a restoration of the plan4 ,then we went on digging1 but discovered next to nothing--a beautiful fragment of a hand1 a dial1 some glass1 copper1 lead1 c41 and vast masses of marble chips1 as though it had once been a marble-mason's shop4 ,at last it seemed to promise so little that ,i gave it up and went back to ,mycone2 but on the #bhth1 not liking to be beaten1 ,i went back alone to have a last look4 ,but ,i could discover no indications to make further digging hopeful1 so ,i came away4 ,from ,mycone the travellers sailed to ,syra1 and from thence to ,zea1 where they stayed some days at least2 for there is in ,bronstedt's ,voyages et recherches en ,grce a drawing by my father of a colossal lion which must have been made at this time4 ,ingilby had left them1 but my father and ,foster must have arrived in ,athens about the beginning of ,december #ahaj4 ,not long after he made acquaintance with a brother craftsman1 ,baron ,haller von ,hallerstein1 a studious and accomplished artist1 about fourteen years his senior1 and a gentleman by birth and nature2 altogether a valuable companion4 ,the two struck up a great intimacy1 and henceforth were inseparable4 ,they could be of service to each other4 ,haller was travelling on a very small allowance from his patron1 ,prince ,louis of ,bavaria2 and my father1 while he profited by the company of a man of greater learning and experience1 was able in return to add to his comfort by getting commissions for him to do drawings for some of his ,english friends1#ae and in other ways supplementing his means4 ,he had come to ,athens from ,rome with one ,linckh1 a painter from ,cannstadt1 ,baron ,stackelberg1#af an ,esthonian from ,revel1 ,bronstedt1#ag a ,dane1 and ,koes1 another ,dane1 all of them accomplished men1 seriously engaged in antiquarian studies4 ,together they formed a society suited to my father's tastes and pursuits4 ,in the way of ,englishmen there were ,messrs4 ,graham and ,haygarth and ,lord ,byron1 all three young ,cambridge men of fortune1 with whom1 especially the two first1 he was intimate4 ,his only other friends1 except ,greeks1 were ,fauvel1 the ,french consul1 who had taste and information1 and was owner of a good collection of ,greek antiquities2 and ,lusieri1#ah the ,italian draughtsman to ,lord ,elgin1 an individual of indifferent character4 ,athens was a small place4 ,there was a khan1 of course1 but nothing in the shape of an hotel4 ,the better class of travellers lived in lodgings1 the best known of which were those of ,madame ,makri1 a ,greek lady1 the widow of a ,scotchman of the name of ,macree1 who had been ,british consul in ,athens in his day4 ,she had three pretty daughters known to travellers as les ,consulines or les trois ,grces1 of whom the eldest was immortalised as the ,maid of ,athens in a much overrated lyric by ,lord ,byron1 who was one of their lodgers4 ,as they were going to stop some time in the town1 instead of going into an apartment1 ,foster and my father took a house together4 ,there is hardly anything that can be called society among the ,greeks4 ,i know a few families1 but ,i very rarely visit them1 for such society as theirs is hateful4 ,as for the ,greek men1 in their slavery they have become utterly contemptible1 bigoted1 narrow-minded1 lying1 and treacherous4 ,they have nothing to do but pull their neighbours' characters to pieces4 ,retired as ,i am1 you would hardly believe there is not a thing ,i do that is not known and worse represented4 ,apropos of an act of insolence of the ,disdar aga's 7which ,i made him repair before the waiwode1 the governor of the town71 ,i heard that it was reported that ,i had been bastinadoed4 ,this report ,i had to answer by spreading another1 viz4 that ,i should promptly shoot anyone1 ,turk or ,christian1 who should venture to lay a hand upon me4 ,this had its effect1 and ,i heard no more of bastinadoing4 ,i do not think we are in much danger here4 ,the ,franks are highly esteemed by the governor1 and the ,english especially4 ,the other day we witnessed the departure of the old waiwode and the arrival of the new4 ,just as the former was leaving1 the heroes from the ,russian war arrived1 brown and dusty4 ,the leading man carried a banner4 ,as they came into the court they were received with discharge of pistols1 and embraced by their old friends with great demonstrations4 ,i was very much affected4 ,i heard afterwards that the rogues had never been further than ,sofia1 and had never smelt any powder but that which had gone to the killing of one of them by his companion in a brawl4 ,so much for my feelings4 ,the outgoing waiwode was escorted by the new one with great ceremony as far as the sacred wood4 ,march #ac is the ,turkish ,new ,year's ,day1 and is a great festival with them4 ,the women go out to ,asomatos and dance on the grass4 ,men are not admitted to the party1 but ,greek women are4 ,linckh1 ,haller1 and ,i went to see them from a distance1 taking with us a glass1 the better to see them4 ,we were discovered1 and some ,turkish boys1 many of whom were armed1 came in great force towards us1 and began to throw stones at us from some way off4 ,instead of retreating1 we stood up to receive them1 which rather intimidated them1 and they stopped throwing and came up4 ,we laughed with them1 which in some measure assuaged them1 and when some one said ',bakshish' we gave them some to scramble for1 and so by degrees retired4 ,some of the ,greek and ,turkish women laughed at us for being driven off by boys2 but it was a dangerous thing so to offend national prejudices1 and ,i was very well pleased to be out of it4 ,at best ours was an inglorious position4 ,foster has received a love letter3 a para with a hole in it1 a morsel of charcoal1 and a piece of the silk such as the women tie their hair with4 ,this last signifies that the sender is reduced to the last extremities of love1 and the idea is that a sympathetic passion will arise in the receiver and make him discover the sender within nine days4 ,these love letters are common to all the ,east1 not to ,turkey only4 ,lady ,mary ,wortley ,montagu gives an account of one consisting of some dozen or twenty symbols1 but she says she believes there are a million of recognised ones4 ,common people1 however1 were probably contented with very few4 ,according to her1 hair 7and ,i suppose that which ties the hair7 means1 ,crown of my head2 coal1 ,may ,i die and all my years be yours2 gold wire1 ,i die1 come quickly4 ,so ,foster's letter reads1 ,crown of my head1 ,i am yours2 come quickly4 ,april #aath4--,lord ,byron embarked to-day on board the transport 7which is carrying ,lord ,elgin's ,marbles7 for ,malta4 ,he takes this letter with him1 and will send it on to you1 ,i trust1 immediately on his arrival in ,england4 ,i must close1 as he is just off for the ,pirus4 ,the ship did not leave the port1 however1 for some days1 as we shall see below2 and besides this delay1 ,lord ,byron was laid up when he got to ,malta and only arrived in ,england in ,july1 so the letter was long on its way4 ,,footnotes3 #ad ,sir ,william ,amcotte ,ingilby1 ,bart4 7died #ahed71 of ,ripley ,castle1 ,yorks4 #ae ,lord ,byron writes that he is having some views done by a famous ,bavarian artist4--,letter #ei4 ,life by ,t4 ,moore4 #af ,baron ,otto ,magnus von ,stackelberg 7#agfj-ahcf71 antiquarian2 author of ,der ,apollotempel zu ,bassae and other works4 #ag ,peter ,oluf ,bronstedt 7#agha-ahdb71 ,danish archologist4 ,was made ,chevalier ,bronstedt and sent by his ,government as minister to ,rome4 #ah ,lusieri1 a ,neapolitan1 painter to the ,king of ,naples2 engaged as draughtsman by ,lord ,elgin4 ,he was still in ,athens in #ahaf4 ,,chapter ,v ,,trip ,,to ,,gina--,,discovery ,,and ,,transportation ,,of ,,the ,,marbles ,,to ,,athens--,,efforts ,,to ,,sell ,,them4 ,i told you we were going to make a tour in the ,morea1 but before doing so we determined to see the remains of the temple at gina1 opposite ,athens1 a three hours' sail4 ,our party was to be ,haller1 ,linckh1 ,foster1 and myself4 ,at the moment of our starting an absurd incident occurred4 ,there had been for some time a smouldering war between our servants and our janissary4 ,when the latter heard that he was not to go with us1 it broke out into a blaze4 ,he said it was because the servants had been undermining his character1 which they equally angrily denied4 ,but he was in a fury1 went home1 got drunk1 and then came out into the street and fired off his pistols1 bawling out that no one but he was the legitimate protector of the ,english4 ,for fear he should hurt some one with his shooting1 ,i went out to him and expostulated4 ,he was very drunk1 and professed to love us greatly and that he would defend us against six or seven or even eight ,turks2 but as for the servants1 ',why1 my soul1' he said1 'have they thus treated me8' ,i contrived1 however1 to prevent his loading his pistols again1 and as he worked the wine off1 calm was at length restored2 but the whole affair delayed us so long that we did not walk down to the ,pirus till night4 ,as we were sailing out of the port in our open boat we overtook the ship with ,lord ,byron on board4 ,passing under her stern we sang a favourite song of his1 on which he looked out of the windows and invited us in4 ,there we drank a glass of port with him1 ,colonel ,travers1 and two of the ,english officers1 and talked of the three ,english frigates that had attacked five ,turkish ones and a sloop of war off ,corfu1 and had taken and burnt three of them4 ,we did not stay long1 but bade them 'bon voyage' and slipped over the side4 ,we slept very well in the boat1 and next morning reached gina4 ,the port is very picturesque4 ,we went on at once from the town to the ,temple of ,jupiter1 which stands at some distance above it2 and having got together workmen to help us in turning stones1 c41 we pitched our tents for ourselves1 and took possession of a cave at the north-east angle of the platform on which the temple stands--which had once been1 perhaps1 the cave of a sacred oracle--as a lodging for the servants and the janissary4 ,the seas hereabouts are still infested with pirates1 as they always have been4 ,one of the workmen pointed me out the pirate boats off ,sunium1 which is one of their favourite haunts1 and which one can see from the temple platform4 ,but they never molested us during the twenty days and nights we camped out there1 for our party1 with servants and janissary1 was too strong to be meddled with4 ,we got our provisions and labourers from the town1 our fuel was the wild thyme1 there were abundance of partridges to eat1 and we bought kids of the shepherds2 and when work was over for the day1 there was a grand roasting of them over a blazing fire with an accompaniment of native music1 singing and dancing4 ,on the platform was growing a crop of barley1 but on the actual ruins and fallen fragments of the temple itself no great amount of vegetable earth had collected1 so that without very much labour we were able to find and examine all the stones necessary for a complete architectural analysis and restoration4 ,at the end of a few days we had learnt all we could wish to know of the construction1 from the stylobate to the tiles1 and had done all we came to do4 ,but meanwhile a startling incident had occurred which wrought us all to the highest pitch of excitement4 ,on the second day one of the excavators1 working in the interior portico1 struck on a piece of ,parian marble which1 as the building itself is of stone1 arrested his attention4 ,it turned out to be the head of a helmeted warrior1 perfect in every feature4 ,it lay with the face turned upwards1 and as the features came out by degrees you can imagine nothing like the state of rapture and excitement to which we were wrought4 ,here was an altogether new interest1 which set us to work with a will4 ,soon another head was turned up1 then a leg and a foot1 and finally1 to make a long story short1 we found under the fallen portions of the tympanum and the cornice of the eastern and western pediments no less than sixteen statues and thirteen heads1 legs1 arms1 c4 7another account says seventeen and fragments of at least ten more71 all in the highest preservation1 not #c feet below the surface of the ground4#ai ,it seems incredible1 considering the number of travellers who have visited the temple1 that they should have remained so long undisturbed4 ,it is evident that they were brought down with the pediment on the top of them by an earthquake1 and all got broken in the fall2 but we have found all the pieces and have now put together1 as ,i say1 sixteen entire figures4 ,the unusual bustle about the temple rapidly increased as the news of our operations spread4 ,many more men than we wanted began to congregate round us and gave me a good deal of trouble4 ,greek workmen have pretty ways4 ,they bring you bunches of roses in the morning with pretty wishes for your good health2 but they can be uncommonly insolent when there is no janissary to keep them in order4 ,once while ,foster1 being away at ,athens1 had taken the janissary with him1 ,i had the greatest pother with them4 ,a number that ,i did not want would hang about the diggings1 now and then taking a hand themselves1 but generally interfering with those who were labouring1 and preventing any orderly and businesslike work4 ,so at last ,i had to speak to them4 ,i said we only required ten men1 who should each receive one piastre per day1 and that that was all ,i had to spend2 and if more than ten chose to work1 no matter how many they might be1 there would still be only the ten piastres to divide amongst them4 ,they must settle amongst themselves what they would choose to do4 ,upon this what did the idlers do8 ,one of them produced a fiddle2 they settled into a ring and were preparing to dance4 ,this was more than ,i could put up with4 ,we should get no work done at all4 ,so ,i interfered and stopped it1 declaring that only those who worked1 and worked hard1 should get paid anything whatever4 ,this threat was made more efficacious by my evident anger1 and gradually the superfluous men left us in peace1 and we got to work again4 ,it was not to be expected that we should be allowed to carry away what we had found without opposition4 ,however much people may neglect their own possessions1 as soon as they see them coveted by others they begin to value them4 ,the primates of the island came to us in a body and read a statement made by the council of the island in which they begged us to desist from our operations1 for that heaven only knew what misfortunes might not fall on the island in general1 and the immediately surrounding land in particular1 if we continued them4 ,such a rubbishy pretence of superstitious fear was obviously a mere excuse to extort money1 and as we felt that it was only fair that we should pay1 we sent our dragoman with them to the village to treat about the sum2 and meanwhile a boat which we had ordered from ,athens having arrived1 we embarked the marbles without delay and sent them off under the care of ,foster and ,linckh1 with the janissary1 to the ,pirus1 and from thence they were carried up to ,athens by night to avoid exciting attention4 ,haller and ,i remained to carry on the digging1 which we did with all possible vigour4 ,the marbles being gone1 the primates came to be easier to deal with4 ,we completed our bargain with them to pay them #hjj piastres1 about #djl41 for the antiquities we had found1 with leave to continue the digging till we had explored the whole site4 ,altogether it took us sixteen days of very hard work1 for besides watching and directing and generally managing the workmen1 we had done a good deal of digging and handling of the marbles ourselves2 all heads and specially delicate parts we were obliged to take out of the ground ourselves for fear of the workmen ruining them4 ,on the whole we have been fortunate4 ,very few have been broken by carelessness4 ,besides all this1 which was outside our own real business1 we had been taking measurements and making careful drawings of every part and arrangement of the architecture till every detail of the construction and1 as far as we could fathom it1 of the art of the building itself was clearly understood by us4 ,meanwhile1 after one or two days' absence1 ,foster and ,linckh came back2 and it then occurred to us that the receipt for the #hjj piastres had only been given to the names of ,foster and myself 7who had paid it71 and ,linckh and ,haller desired that theirs should be added4 ,linckh therefore went off to the town to get the matter rectified4 ,but this was not so easy4 ,the lawyer was a crafty rogue1 and pretending to be drunk as soon as he had got back the receipt into his hands1 refused to give it up1 and did not do so until after a great deal of persuasion and threatening4 ,when we fell in with him at dinner two days later he met us with the air of the most candid unconcern4 ,it was at the table of a certain ,chiouk aga who had been sent from ,constantinople to receive the rayah tax4 ,linckh had met him in the town when he went about the receipt1 and the ,chiouk had paid us a visit at the temple next day and dined with us1 eating and especially drinking a great deal4 ,a compliment he paid us was to drink our healths firing off a pistol4 ,i had to do the same in return4 ,the man had been to ,england1 and even to ,oxford1 and had come back with an odd jumble of ideas which amused us but are not worth repeating4 ,next day1 as ,i have said1 we dined with him and the rogue of a lawyer4 ,he was very hospitable4 ,dinner consisted mainly of a whole lamb1 off which with his fingers he tore entire limbs and threw them into our plates1 which we1 equally with our fingers1 la ,turque1 ate as best we could4 ,we finished the evening with the ,albanian dance1 and walked up home to our tent4 ,the whole party with their treasures got back to ,athens on the #ith or #ajth of ,may #ahaa1 and on the #acth he writes3 ,we are now hard at work joining the broken pieces1 and have taken a large house for the purpose4 ,some of the figures are already restored1 and have a magnificent effect4 ,our council of artists here considers them as not inferior to the remains of the ,parthenon1 and certainly only in the second rank after the torso of the ,vatican and other chefs d'oeuvre4 ,we conduct all our affairs with respect to them in the utmost secrecy1 for fear the ,turk should either reclaim them or put difficulties in the way of our exporting them4 ,the few friends we have and consult are dying with jealousy1 and one#bj who had meant to have farmed gina of the ,captain ,pasha has literally made himself quite ill with fretting4 ,fauvel1 the ,french consul1 was also a good deal disappointed2 but he is too good a fellow to let envy affect his actions1 and he has given excellent help and advice4 ,the finding of such a treasure has tried every character concerned with it4 ,he saw that this would be the case1 and for fear it should operate to the prejudice of our beautiful collection1 he proposed our signing a contract of honour that no one should take any measures to sell or divide it without the consent of the other three parties4 ,this was done4 ,it is not to be divided4 ,it is a collection which a king or great nobleman who had the arts of his country at heart should spare no effort to secure2 for it would be a school of art as well as an ornament to any country4 ,the ,germans have accordingly written to their ministers1 and ,i have written to ,canning2 while ,fauvel1 who has a general order for the purpose from his minister1 will make an offer to us on the ,french account4 ,i had hoped that ,lord ,sligo would have offered for it2 but our ,germans1 who calculate by the price of marbles in ,rome1 have named such a monstrous figure that it has frightened him4 ,they talk of from #f1jjjl4 to #h1jjjl42 but as we are eager that they should go to our museum1 ,foster and ,i have undertaken to present our shares if the marbles go to ,england1 and ,i have written to ,canning to say so4 ,it would make a sensible deduction4 ,the whole matter is still full of uncertainties1 for the ,turks may give us a good deal of trouble4 ,but one thing seems clear--that these marbles may detain me here much longer than ,i proposed to stop2 and though we have agreed not to divide the collection1 it may come to that if we cannot get away without2 and if we can get them to ,england1 even ,foster's and my portions would make a noble acquisition to the museum4 ,we have been very busy getting the marbles into order1 that ,lord ,sligo might be able to see them before leaving4 ,he takes this letter with him4 ,it was shortly after this1 viz4 on ,june #ac1 that ,messrs4 ,gaily-,knight#ba and ,fazakerly arrived in ,athens from ,egypt and made an offer1 which was to buy out ,messrs4 ,haller and ,linckh's shares in the marbles for #b1jjjl41 and then1 in conjunction with ,mr4 ,foster and my father1 to present the whole to the ,british ,museum4 ,the offer unfortunately could not be accepted1 as it did not come up to the price demanded by the ,germans4 ,,footnotes3 #ai ,only fifteen statues were pieced together by ,thorwaldsen and ,wagner1 but there were numerous fragments besides those used by them1 which are still the subject of conjectural restorations4 #bj ,i suppose ,lusieri4--,,ed4 #ba ,henry ,gally-,knight 7#aghf-ahdf71 ,m4,p41 writer of several works on architecture4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,life ,,in ,,athens--,,eleusis--,,transportation ,,of ,,gina ,,marbles ,,to ,,zante4 ,my father was now in for a long stay in the country1 and seeing something more of it than the usual tourist1 even of those days4 ,one or two entries from his diary give one a slight insight into the barbarous condition of the country at this time4 ,the ,pasha of ,negropont has sent a demand of a certain number of purses of the people of ,athens4 ,logotheti1 ,greek ,archon of ,athens1 excited the people to go to the cadi and present a protest1 which he promised he would support4 ,the people went as far as the house1 when ,logotheti stepped aside into a neighbouring house1 whence he could see the cadi's countenance and judge how to speak to him4 ,he saw he took it well1 and then he spoke in support of the protest4 ,this ,pasha of ,negropont1 however1 is a redoubtable person4 ,it was expected that he would send troops to attack ,athens1 but it seems that was too strong a measure even for him4 ,instead1 he has intercepted some poor ,albanian cheese merchants1 and detains them until some or all of the money has been paid him4#bb ,one day ,i went to the waiwode on business4 ,we had a long talk consisting mainly of questions about ,england1 in which he displayed his ignorance to great advantage4 ,after inquiring after his great friend ,elfi ,bey 8 ,lord ,elgin1 he asked what on earth we came here for1 so far and at so much trouble1 if not for money4 ,did it give us a preference in obtaining public situations1 or were we paid8 ,it was useless to assure him that we considered it part of education to travel1 and that ,athens was a very ancient place and much revered by us4 ,he only thought the more that our object must be one we wished to conceal4 ,i told him of the fuss made in ,london over the ,persian ambassador1 and that if he went all the world would wonder at him4 ,at this he got very excited1 and said he wished he had a good carico of oil which he could take to ,england1 thereby paying his journey1 and that once he was there he would make everyone pay to see him4 ,all that he knew about ,england was that there were beautiful gardens there1 especially one named ,marcellias 7,marseilles76 ,the man's one idea was money1 and he kept on repeating that he was very poor4 ,no wonder ,greece is miserable under such rulers4 ,veli ,pasha1 ,governor of the ,morea1 passed through ,athens a short time ago in a palankin of gold1 while the country is in misery4 ,the ,greeks1 cringeing blackguards as they are1 have often a sort of pride of their own4 ,one of our servants1 who received a piastre a day 7#as471 has just left us4 ,his amorosa1 who lived close by1 saw him carrying water and performing other menial offices and chaffed him1 so he said he could stand it no longer and threw up a place the like of which he will not find again in ,athens4 ,i went into the council of the ,greek primates4 ,there ,i saw the ,french proclamation on the birth of the ,roi des ,romains3 ',the ,immortal son of ,buonaparte is born6 ,rejoice1 ye people1 our wishes are accomplished6' ,the primates1 however1 soberly objected that none but ,god was ,greek3 athanatos4 ,what took me there was to back an ,englishman who had got into a quarrel with a neighbour1 a ,greek widow1 about 'ancient lights' which were blocked by a new building he was putting up4 ,the woman maintained her cause with much spirit and choice expressions3 ',you rascal1 who came to ,athens with your mouth full of dung6 ,i'll send you out without a shoe to your foot4' ,our man retorted 'putana1' equally irrelevantly1 and the affair ended in his favour4 ,one morning by agreement we rose at daybreak and walked to ,eleusis1 intending to dig1 but we found the labourers very idle and insolent2 and after a few days1 discovering no trace of the temple1 we gave it up4 ,the better sort of ,greeks have some respect for the superior knowledge of ,franks as evinced in my drawings2 one man1 a papa or priest1 asked me whether ,i thought the ancients1 whom they revere1 can have been ,franks or ,romaics4 ,an awkward incident occurred during our stay4 ,we had in our service a handsome ,greek lad to whom the cadi took a fancy and insisted on his taking service with him4 ,the boy1 much terrified1 came and wept to us and ,papa ,nicola1 with whom we lodged4 ,we started off at once to the cadi1 and gave him a piece of our mind1 which considerably astonished and enraged him4 ,he was afraid to touch us1 but vowed to take it out of old ,nicola1 and the next day went off to ,athens4 ,one night1 the last of our stay1 arrived a man from the zabeti1 or police1 of ,athens to take up ,nicola to answer certain accusations brought against him by the cadi4 ,this soldier1 who was a fine type of the genuine ,athenian blackguard1 swaggered in and partook freely of our wine1 having already got drunk at the cadi's4 ,he offered wine to passers-by as if it was his own1 boasted1 called himself ,greek3 'palikar1' roared out songs1 and generally made himself most objectionable4 ,he began to quiz a respectable ,albanian who came in2 and when the latter1 who was very civil and called him ',aga1' attempted to retort1 flew into a rage1 said he was a palikar again1 and handled his sword and shook his pistols4 ,i could stand it no longer at last1 and said this was my house and no one was aga there but myself2 that ,i should be glad to see him put his pistols down and let me have no more of his swaggering2 otherwise ,i had pistols too1 which ,i showed him1 and would be ready to use them4 ,i then treated our poor ,albanian with great attention and him with contumely4 ,this finished him and reduced the brute to absolute cringeing as far as his conduct to me went4 ,the wretched papa he bullied as before1 and when he got up to go he and all the rest were up in an instant2 one prepared his papouches1 another supported him1 a third opened the door1 and a fourth held a lamp to light him out4 ,but he had not yet finished his evening4 ,soon ,i heard a noise of singing and roaring from another house hard by1 and received a message from him to beg ,i would sup with him1 for now he had a table of his own and could invite me4 ,the table was provided by some wretched ,greek he was tyrannising over4 ,of course ,i did not go1 but ,i moralised over the state of the country4 ,next day he carried off ,nicola4 ,another instance of the tyranny of these scoundrels was told me as having occurred only a few days before4 ,a zabetis man had arrived and pretended to have lost on the way a purse containing #hj piastres4 ,all the inhabitants were sent to search for it1 and if they did not find it he said it must be repaid by the town--and it was4 ,among the people we met at ,eleusis was a ,greek merchant1 a great beau from ,hydra1 at this time the most prosperous place in ,greece2 but away from his own town he had to cringe to the ,turks like everyone else4 ,on our way back to ,athens we overtook him carrying an umbrella to shade his face1 and with an ,albanian boy behind him4 ,when he saw our janissary ,mahomet the umbrella was immediately lowered4 ,the population of ,greece is so small now#bc that large spaces are left uncultivated and rights to land are very undefined4 ,in the neighbourhood of towns there is always a considerable amount of cultivated ground1 but although the cultivator of each patch hopes to reap it1 there is nothing but fear of him to prevent another's doing it1 so far as ,i can see4 ,a field is ploughed and sown by an undefined set of people1 and an equally or even less defined set may reap it4 ,and in point of fact people do go and cut corn where they please or dare4 ,we met a lot of ,athenians on our way back1 going to cut corn at ,thebes4 ,by the middle of ,july the ginetan ,marbles had been thoroughly overhauled and pieced together1 and it was pressing that something should be done about them4 ,the schemes of selling them to ,lord ,sligo and ,messrs4 ,knight and ,fazakerly had fallen through1 and it had come to be seen that the only fair way for all parties was to sell them by public auction4 ,to do this they must first be got out of the country1 and various schemes for effecting it were considered and abandoned4 ,as the proprietors meanwhile were in daily fear of their being pounced upon by the ,turkish authorities1 they agreed at length to put the whole matter into the hands of one ,gropius1 a common acquaintance4 ,he was half a ,german1 but born and bred amongst ,orientals1 and being conversant with their ways and languages1 and a sharp fellow besides1 they felt he was more likely than themselves1 unassisted1 to carry the business through successfully4 ,they accordingly appointed him their agent1 and settled that the collection should be got to ,zante1 as the nearest place of security4 ,eight days were spent in packing1 and on ,july #cj the first batch1 on horses and mules1 was sent off at night to a spot indicated on the ,gulf of ,corinth1 near a town and castle 8 ,livadostro4--,,ed44 ,cockerell followed two days afterwards with the rest1 and sleeping two nights at ,condoura1 on the third day reached the rendezvous4 ,there they found the first batch all laid out on the beach1 and congratulated themselves on having got so far unmolested4 ,gropius went into the town to hire a vessel while the rest sketched and rested4 ,the weather was furiously hot1 and ,cockerell1 who was very fond of the water1 went out for a long swim in the bay1 but some fishermen he came up with frightened him back by telling him that they had seen sharks about4 ,gropius returned in the evening with a boat1 and all set to work to get the packages aboard4 ,it took them nearly the whole night to do it4 ,when finally he had seen them all stowed1 ,cockerell1 tired out1 lay down to sleep4 ,when he woke they were already gliding out of the bay4 ,they sailed along prosperously1 and had long passed ,corinth and ,sicyon when1 as evening came on1 they heard the sound of firing ahead4 ,our first idea was pirates1 and when we presently came up with a large ship1 which summoned us to come to1 we were rather anxious4 ,our felucca was sent aboard4 ,she turned out to be a ,zantiote merchantman1 and had been attacked by four boats which had put out from the shore to examine the cargo in the name of ,ali ,pasha4 ,she had refused to submit to overhauling1 and when asked what her cargo consisted of had replied ',bullets4' ,when the captain understood we had four milordi on board1 he begged pardon for detaining us1 and let us go on4 ,next day we made ,patras1 where we went ashore to see ,strani1 the consul1 and get from him passports and letters for ,zante4 ,in the town we fell in with ,bronstedt and the rest of that party1 who were1 of course1 much interested and astonished to hear all our news and present business1 and when we set sail in the evening gave us a grand salute of pistols as we went out of port4 ,we had a spanking breeze4 ,a storm was brewing behind ,calydon1 and when at length it came upon us it burst the sail of a boat near us4 ,we were a lot of boats sailing together1 but when the rest saw this accident they took in their sails4 ,our skipper1 however1 insisted on carrying on1 so we soon parted company with the others2 and after a fair wind all night we arrived in the morning at ,zante4 ,,footnotes3 #bb ,in the end the city had to pay him #aj1jjj piastres1 and they had spent #e1jjj in putting themselves in a state of defence4 #bc ,according to ,de ,pouqueville1 #edh1idj1 in #ahad2 it is now over #b1jjj1jjj4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,zante--,,colonel ,,church--,,leaves ,,zante ,,to ,,make ,,tour ,,of ,,the ,,morea--,,olympia --,,bass--,,discovery ,,of ,,bas-,,reliefs--,,forced ,,to ,,desist ,,from ,,excavations4 ,hitherto we had had an anxious time1 but once they were landed we felt at ease about the marbles4 ,henceforth the business is in ,gropius' hands4 ,the auction has been announced in ,english and continental papers to take place in ,zante on ,november #a1 #ahab4 ,it took us some time to install them1 and altogether we passed an odious fortnight on the island4 ,the ,zantiotes1 as they have been more under ,western influence--for ,zante belonged to ,venice for about three centuries--are detestable4 ,they are much less ignorant than the rest of the ,greeks1 but their half-knowledge only makes them the more hateful4 ,until the island was taken in hand by the ,english1 murder was of constant occurrence1 and so long as a small sum of money was paid to the proveditor no notice was taken of it4 ,for accomplishing it without bloodshed they had a special method of their own4 ,it was to fill a long narrow bag with sand1 with which1 with a blow on the back scientifically delivered1 there could be given1 without fuss or noise1 a shock certain sooner or later to prove fatal4 ,socially they have all the faults of the ,west as well as those of the ,east without the virtues of either4 ,but their crowning defect in my eyes is that they have not the picturesque costumes or appearance of the mainland ,greeks4 ,the most interesting thing in ,zante for the moment is ,major ,church's#bd ,greek contingent4 ,he has enrolled and disciplined a number of refugee ,greeks1 part patriots1 part criminals1 and generally both1 and has taken an immense deal of pains with them4 ,he flatters them by calling them ,hellenes1 shows them the heads of their heroes and philosophers painted on every wall in his house1 and endeavours generally to rouse their enthusiasm4 ,he himself adopts the ,albanian costume1 to which he has added a helmet which he fancies is like that of the ancient ,greeks1 although it is certainly very unlike those of the heroes we brought into ,zante4 ,altogether1 with a great deal of good management and more fustian1 he has contrived to attach to himself some thousand excellent troops which under his command would really be capable of doing great things4 #be;,at last1 on the evening of the #ahth of ,august1 we considered ourselves fortunate in being able to get away1 and we started to make the tour of the ,morea4 ,gropius1 ,haller1 ,foster1 ,linckh1 and ,i left ,zante in a small boat and arrived next morning at ,pyrgi1 the port of ,pyrgo1 from which it is distant two hours and a half4 ,we obtained horses at a monastery not far from where we landed1 and rode through a low marshy country1 well cultivated1 chiefly in corn and melon grounds1 and fairly well peopled up to the town4 ,pyrgo itself lies just above the marshes which border the ,alpheus1 and1 as it happened to our subsequent cost1 there was a good deal of water out at this moment4 ,we ordered horses1 and while they were being brought in we entered the house of an old ,greek1 a primate of the place4 ,i had been so disgusted with the thinly veneered civilisation of the ,zantiotes and bored with the affectations of our garrison officers there1 that ,i was congratulating myself on having got back to the frank barbarism of the ,morea1 when my admiration for it received a check4 ,the old ,greek in whose house we were waiting seemed anxious to be rid of us1 and1 the better to do so1 assured me that ,meraca1 or ,olympia1 was only #b hours distant1 equal at the ordinary rate of ,turkish travelling1 which is #c miles an hour1 to #g miles4 ,the horses were so long in coming1 on account of their being out among the marshes and the men having to go up to their knees to get them1 that ,haller and ,i got impatient and resolved to go on foot as the distance was so little4 ,it turned out1 however1 to be #g hours instead of #b1 and at nightfall we arrived dead-beat at a marsh1 through which in a pitch darkness1 ,i may thank my stars1 although invisible1 for having struggled safely4 ,we wandered about1 lost our way1 waded in pools to our knees1 and finally took #h hours instead of #b to get to our destination4 ,it was two o'clock in the morning when we got to ,meraca1 utterly tired out1 and with our lodging still to seek4 ,we were directed to a tower in which lived an ,albanian aga4 ,the entrance was at the top of a staircase running up the side of the house and ending in a drawbridge which led to the door on the first floor4 ,once inside we went up two other flights of stairs to a room in which we found two ,albanians1 by whom we were kindly received4 ,when they heard how tired we were they offered us some rasky4 ,besides that there was some miserable bread1 but no coffee or meat to refresh us4 ,we had to lie down and go to sleep without4 ,there are few visible remains of the once famous ,olympia1#bf and not a trace of stadium or theatre that ,i could make out4 ,the general opinion is that the ,alpheus has silted up and buried many of the buildings to a depth of #h or #aj feet1 and our small researches point in the same direction4 ,we dug in the temple1 but what we could do amounted to next to nothing4 ,to do it completely would be a work for a king4 ,i had had some difficulty with the ,greek labourers at gina1 but the ,turks here were much worse4 ,in the first place1 instead of one piastre apiece per day they asked #b1 and in the next they had no proper tools4 ,the earth was as hard as brick1 and when with extreme difficulty it had been broken up they had no proper shovels2 and when the earth1 which they piled along the trench as they dug it out1 ran into the hole again1 they scooped it out with their hands4 ,the thing was too ludicrous4 ,worst of all1 as soon as we turned our backs for a moment they either did nothing or went away4 ,this happened when we left them to cross the river and try for a better view of the place4 ,we got over in a caique1 which the aga himself1 from the village across the water1 punted over to us2 but the view over there was disappointing1 and we came back to find1 as ,i say1 our workmen all idling4 ,the long and short of our excavations was that we measured the columns of the temple to be #g feet in diameter1 and we found some attached columns and other fragments of marble from the interior1 the whole of which ,i suppose was of marble1 that of the pavement being of various colours4 ,such stone as is used is of a rough kind1 made up entirely of small shells and covered with a very white and fine plaster4 ,and that is about all the information we got for a largish outlay4 ,from ,meraca we rode through romantic scenery to ,andritzena1 a charming village in a very beautiful and romantic situation2 and next morning we settled to go on to the ,temple of ,bass--the styl or columns1 the natives call it4 ,but before we started the primates of ,andritzena came in1 and after turning over our things and examining and asking the price of our arms1 they began to try and frighten us with tremendous stories of a certain ,barulli1 captain of a company of klephts or robbers who haunted the neighbourhood of the styl4 ,they begged us to come back the same evening1 and to take a guard with us4 ,as for the first1 we flatly refused2 and for the second1 we reflected that our guards must be ,greeks1 while the klephts might be ,turks1 and if so the former would never stand against them1 so it was as well for us to take the risk alone4 ,we did1 however1 take one of their suggestions1 and that was to take with us two men of the country who would know who was who1 and act as guides and go-betweens2 for they assured us that it is not only the professional klephts who rob1 but that all the inhabitants of the villages thereabouts are dilettante brigands on occasion4 ,our janissary ,mahomet also did not at all fancy the notion of living up in the mountain1 and added what he could to dissuade us4 ,however1 we turned a deaf ear to all objections and set out4 ,our way lay over some high ground1 and rising almost all the way1 for #b hours4 ,it is impossible to give an idea of the romantic beauty of the situation of the temple4 ,it stands on a high ridge looking over lofty barren mountains and an extensive country below them4 ,the ground is rocky1 thinly patched with vegetation1 and spotted with splendid ilexes4 ,the view gives one ,ithome1 the stronghold and last defence of the ,messenians against ,sparta1 to the south-west2 ,arcadia1 with its many hills1 to the east2 and to the south the range of ,taygetus1 with still beyond them the sea4 ,haller had engagements1 which ,i had got him1 to make four drawings for ,english travellers4 ,i made some on my own account1 and there were measurements to be taken and a few stones moved for the purpose1 all of which took time4 ,we spent altogether ten days there1 living on sheep and butter1 the only good butter ,i have tasted since leaving ,england1 sold to us by the few ,albanian shepherds who lived near4 ,of an evening we used to sit and smoke by a fire1 talking to the shepherds till we were ready for sleep1 when we turned into our tent1 which1 though not exactly comfortable1 protected us from weather and from wolves4 ,for there are wolves--one of them one night tore a sheep to pieces close to us4 ,we pitched our tent under the north front4 ,on the next day after our arrival1 the #beth1 one of the primates of ,andritzena came begging us to desist from digging or moving stones1 for that it might bring harm on the town4 ,this was very much what happened at gina4 ,he did not specify what harm1 but asked who we were4 ,we in reply said that we had firmans1 that it was not civil1 therefore1 to ask who we were1 and that we were not going to carry away the columns4 ,when he heard of the firmans he said he would do anything he could to help us4 ,all the same1 he seemed to have given some orders to our guide against digging2 for the shepherds we engaged kept talking of the fear they were in1 and at last went away1 one of them saying the work was distasteful to him4 ,they were no great loss1 for they were so stupid that ,i was obliged to be always with them and work too1 in doing which ,i tore my hand and got exceedingly fatigued4 ,i was repaid by getting some important measurements4 ,in looking about ,i found two very beautiful bas-reliefs under some stones1 which ,i took care to conceal again immediately4 ,this incident is described in greater detail by ,stackelberg in the preface to his book4#bg ,the interior of the temple--that is to say1 the space inside the columns--was a mass of fallen blocks of some depth4 ,while ,haller and ,cockerell with the labourers were scrambling about among the ruins to get their measurements1 a fox that had made its home deep down amongst the stones1 disturbed by the unusual noise1 got up and ran away4 ,it is not quite a pleasant task to crawl down among such insecure and ponderous masses of stone with the possibility of finding another fox at the bottom2 but ,cockerell ventured in1 and on scraping away the accumulations where the fox had its lair1 he saw by the light which came down a crack among the stones1 a bas-relief4 ,i have heard this story also from his own lips4 ,stackelberg further says that the particular relief was that numbered #ecj in the ,phigaleian ,marbles at the ,british ,museum1 and navely adds1 indeed one may still trace on the marble the injuries done by the fox's claws4 ,he managed to make a rough sketch of the slab and carefully covered it over again4 ,from the position in which it lay it was inferable that the whole frieze would probably be found under the dilapidations4 ,early one morning some armed shepherds came looking about for a lost sheep4 ,they eventually found it dead not far from our tent1 and torn to pieces by a wolf--as ,i mentioned before4 ,the day being ,sunday we saw some grand specimens of the ,arcadian shepherds4 ,they stalk about with a gun over their shoulders and a long pistol in the waist1 looking very savage and wild--and so they are3 but1 wild as they may be1 they still retain the names which poetry has connected with all that is idyllic and peaceful4 ,alexis is one of the commonest4 ,as our labourers had left us1 there was nothing for it but to work ourselves4 ,we were doing so and had just lit upon some beautiful caissons1 when a man on horseback1 ,greek or ,turk 7they dress so much alike there is no distinguishing them71 rode up accompanied by four ,albanians all armed4 ,he told us he was the owner of the land1 and1 although he was very civil about it1 he forbade our digging any more4 ,we asked him to eat with us1 but being a fast day in the ,greek ,church1 he declined4 ,finally1 after writing to ,andritzena1 he left us4 ,after so many objections being made to our excavations we felt it would be too dangerous to go on at present1 and promised ourselves to come again next year in a stronger party and armed with more peremptory and explicit authority to dig1 and in the meantime there was nothing to do but to get through our drawings and studies as quickly as we could4 ,the uneasiness of our janissary ,mahomet1 since our camping out began1 gave us serious doubts of his courage1 and a plan was invented for testing it4 ,this was to raise an alarm at night that we were attacked by klephts4 ,our ,arcadian shepherds entered into the joke with surprising alacrity and kept it up well4 ,just after supper a cry was heard from the mountain above that robbers were near4 ,in an instant we all sprang up1 seized pistols and swords1 and made a feint as though we would go up the hill4 ,our janissary1 thunderstruck1 was following1 when we proposed that he should go on alone4 ,but he would not do that4 ,in the first place he was ill2 in the next place1 ,would it not be better to go to ,andritzena8 ,he begged we might go to ,andritzena4 ,,footnotes3 #bd ,afterwards ,sir ,richard ,church1 and commander-in-chief of the ,greek forces up to his death in #ahgb4 #be ,an epitome of the following appears in ,hughes's ,travels in ,sicily1 ,greece1 and ,albania1 p4 #aij4 #bf ,olympia was thoroughly excavated by the ,germans in #ahge-gf1 when the ,hermes of ,praxiteles and the ,victory of ,ponios were discovered4 #bg ,der ,apollotempel zu ,bassae4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,andritzena--,,caritzena--,,megalopolis --,,benighted--,,kalamata4 ,we left the styl and went down to ,andritzena by a shorter road4 ,in going up1 the drivers1 to be able to charge us more1 had taken us round a longer way4 ,andritzena is not only beautiful in its situation1 the people who live in it are charming4 ,everyone seemed to think it the proper thing to show some attention to the strangers4 ,the girls--and some of them were very pretty--brought us each as a present a fruit of some kind1 pears or figs1 and did it in the prettiest and most engaging manner2 so that we had more than we could carry home with us4 ,disinterested urbanity is so unusual a feature in ,greek character that we were surprised1 and ,i must confess that it was the only time such a thing ever occurred to us in ,greece4 ,the ,turks tax these poor wretches unmercifully4 ,to begin with1 they have to pay the ,government one-fourth of their produce4 ,then there is the karatch or poll tax1 which seems to be rather variable in amount1 and the chrea or local tax levied for the local government1 which together make up about another fourth2 so that the taxes amount to half the yearly produce4 ,of course the people complain4 ,i can't tell you how often ,i have been asked ',when will the ,english come and deliver us from the ,turks1 who eat out our souls8' ',and why do they delay8' ,one ,greek told me he prayed daily that the ,franks might come2 and while ,i am on the subject ,i may as well mention here1 though it was said a few weeks later1 when we were near ,corinth1 by a shepherd1 ',i pray to ,god ,i may live to see the ,morea filled with such ,franks4' ,they like us better than they do the ,french1 because they have heard from ,zante and elsewhere that we treat our dependencies more honourably than they do4 ,we were five days at ,andritzena4 ,haller made drawings of the village1 and ,i finished up my memoranda of ,phigaleia4 ,besides that1 as ,i thought we ought not to leave the neighbourhood without making a final effort to complete our explorations at the styl1 and that1 the ,pasha ,veli being absent from the ,morea1 we might perhaps get leave from the ,waiwode of ,fanari1 ,foster and ,i rode over to see him4 ,we found him exceedingly courteous1 perfectly a man of the world2 and although his house and the two old cushions in the corner of a dilapidated gallery on which he was propped when he received us did not bespeak great affluence1 his manner was not that of a man to whom one could offer a bribe4 ,he said he regretted very much having had to write the letter we had received forbidding us to go on digging1 but that it was absolutely necessary that we should cease1 and there was an end of the matter4 ,at the same time he hoped there had been no expression in it to offend us4 ',veli1' said he1 'is very peremptory about no bouyuruldu or permission being given by anyone but himself2 for he insists on knowing all about travellers who move about in his pashalik1 and upon periodically inspecting them and their firman and approving it4 ,the mere fact of my having allowed your party to remain ten days at ,phigaleia1 no matter whether you dug or not1 was enough to ruin me2 for these ,albanians that is1 ,ali ,pasha and his sons ask but few questions listen to no excuses4' ,so we had to go back to ,andritzena without having effected anything beyond seeing an ,albanian ,turkish wedding on our way4 ,when we came upon them they were gorgeously dressed1 playing the djerid and brandishing their swords4 ,i never saw anything so picturesque4 ,the party were on their way to fetch the bride from ,fanari4 ,they had an ,albanian red and white banner1 with a silk handkerchief tied to the top of it1 which was the token sent by the bride to her lover as an invitation to him to come and fetch her4 ,after sunset she is taken to his house on horseback1 closely veiled4 ,hearing of some columns in an old castle not far off1 as the account was a tolerably rational one1 ,i resolved1 although ,i ought to have had experience enough of ,greek lies to warn me1 to go and see them4 ,there was the hope of making some discovery of interest2 for my informant insisted that no milords had ever been there before4 ,so ,i girt myself with sword and pistol1 and walked #b hours to a hill or mountain called ,sultan4 ,i only found a few miserable columns1 a considerable fortress and cyclopean walls1 and ,i made two sketches on the road4 ,i was very tired when ,i got back4 ,the ,greek shoemaker1 our landlord1 came and supped with us1 and got very maudlin over the wine4 ,we went next to ,caritzena4 ,the waiwode insisted on our putting up with him1 and gave up a room to us1 begging that we would order whatever best pleased us2 that his servants would prepare anything1 and we should purchase nothing4 ',our king at ,stamboul is rich enough to receive our friends and allies1 the ,english1' he said4 ,we were preparing to go out and draw when a message came to say the waiwode would pay us a visit4 ,haller1 however1 would not stop for anybody4 ,foster had to ride back to a place where he had changed his coat and in so doing had dropped a ring he valued1 and which1 by the by1 he managed to find4 ,so ,linckh and ,i1 though ,i felt very unwell with a bilious attack1 had to stop in and receive our visitor4 ,he was very polite1 and his manners really very fine4 ,he told us he had been with the ambassador at ,vienna and at ,berlin1 and spoke a few words of ,german1 which enchanted ,linckh4 ,he presently remarked that ,i seemed unwell1 and ,i told him that ,i was bilious1 and had a pain in my head2 whereupon he took hold of my temples in his right hand1 while an old ,turk who sat near doubled down his little finger and repeated a charm1 which he began in a whisper and finished aloud1 leaning forward and pronouncing something like ',osman ,odoo--o--o4' ,then he asked me if ,i was better2 because if ,i was not he would double down his next finger and the next till he came to the thumb1 which he said was infallible4 ,this prospect seemed more than ,i could quite bear2 so ,i thought best to sacrifice my principles1 and said ',yes1 ,i was1' to get rid of the matter1 but ,i was not4 ,some ,greeks came and joined in our conversation4 ,really1 if one had not some pity for their condition1 one could not suffer them1 their manners are so odious4 ,nevertheless1 as they seem to have all the power here and elect their own governor and give him an allowance1 the waiwode would not join me in criticising them4 ,the waiwode continued to be as civil as ever1 but ,i could not help thinking he looked anxiously for presents1 and we had none to give him4 ,all ,i could do was to offer him one of the common little brass ,english boxes with a head of ,king ,george on it1 filled with bark4 ,he took it with every expression of delight1 but ,i could see it was put on4 ,we could only thank him heartily1 fee the servants handsomely1 and bow ourselves out with the best grace we could assume4 ,he especially coveted a miniature ,foster wore of a lady1 and this ,foster promised to have copied for him and sent him from ,england2 but he could not part with the original4 ,he gave us strong letters of recommendation for ,kalamata4 ,we left early next day4 ,there was an awkward little episode of a box of instruments belonging to ,foster1 which he missed off a certain sofa4 ,the ,boluk bashi had admired them very much4 ,presently1 when the inquiry was made1 an officer of the ,boluk bashi came in and searched near the sofa1 and then suddenly went out4 ,we did the same1 and lo6 there was the case4 ,and the ,boluk bashi looked very disconcerted as we bade him adieu4 ,we followed the course of the ,gyrtinas4 ,these are mountains which on all hands are celebrated among the modern ,greeks for the exploits of the ,colocotroni#bh and other captains who lived among the hills and maintained a sort of independence of the ,turks ever since they have held the ,morea4 ,the peasants delight to sing the ballads composed on these heroes1 and1 exulting in their bravery1 forget the horrible barbarities they committed4 ,when ,smirke was here the country must really have been in a fearful state of anarchy2 and whatever we may say against him1 it must be laid at any rate to the credit of ,veli ,pasha that he has cleared the ,morea of banditti4 ,the ,colocotroni and the rest of them have had to fly the country and enlist in ,church's contingent at ,zante4 ,we spent some time at ,megalopolis1 and with ,pausanias in our hands were able to identify remnants of almost everything he mentions1 in especial the spring near the theatre1 which only runs part of the year4 ,at ,lycosura the ruins are disappointingly modern1 and there is not much of them2 nothing left of the ancient temple at all4 ,the situation is very fine4 ,two and a half hours' journey up a stream through woods brought us to ,dervine1 the boundary of ,messenia4 ,then we crossed the ,plain of ,messenia1 admiring1 even in the rain1 the mountains1 ,ithome especially1 and at dusk got to a village two hours short of ,kalamata4 ,our agroati did not know the road on1 and it was too late to get a guide2 but as they told us the road was quite straight we went on in the dark4 ,at the end of an hour we had lost the track2 it was pitch black1 raining still1 and we on the edge of a river in a marsh4 ,there ,i thought we should have stayed4 ,for four hours we groped about1 looking first for the lost path1 and then for any path to any shelter4 ,first we tried giving ,haller's horse1 who had been to ,kalamata before1 a loose rein and letting him lead the way4 ,at first it promised well1 for the horse went ahead willingly2 but the agroati took upon him to change his course1 and then we were as lost as ever4 ,we could hardly see each other4 ,then we sent off the agroati to try and reach a light we could see4 ,he came back with awful accounts of bogs and ditches he had met in his path4 ,finally1 after standing still for a time in the pelting rain1 we resolved to reach the light2 and so we did1 over hedge and ditch and through bogs1 and ,indian corn above our heads as we sat on horseback1 and at length1 wet through and wearied1 reached a cottage in which were some ,greeks4 ,they1 however1 refused to lead us to any house2 for1 said they1 'we know not what men ye are4' ,at last one good man took us into his house and gave us a room1 and figs and brandy for supper4 ,we were thankful for anything4 ,he was a poor peasant with a pretty wife and a perfectly lovely daughter4 ,we got to ,kalamata next day1 meeting on the way numbers of ,mainiotes coming to buy figs c4 in the ,messenian plain1 all armed4 ,our baggage had arrived very late overnight4 ,we went to the so-called consul1 an agent of the consul at ,patras1 and sent the letter of recommendation of the ,waiwode of ,caritzena to the ,waiwode of ,kalamata2 but he took no notice of it1 and did nothing whatever for us1 so we had to find a house for ourselves4 ,we pitched upon a lofty ,turkish tower commanding the city1 with a very rotten floor which threatened at any moment to let us through from the second storey to the base4 ,the only way up to our room was by a crazy ladder4 ,the shutters were riddled with bullets4 ,some time before there had been a grand engagement between this tower and the cupola of a neighbouring church1 where some ,mainiotes in the service of one of their great captains1 a certain ,benachi1 had defended themselves4 ,kalamata seems to be a constant scene of fights between the party of the ,bey appointed by the ,porte1 or rather the ,capitan ,pasha1 and the party who want to appoint a ,bey of their own1 and this is the way they fight1 each party from its own tower4 ,from our tower we made panoramic sketches of the city1 but were much interrupted by visitors4 ,among them came a young ,mainiote ,albanian officer from ,church's contingent1 who was here recruiting4 ,he was accompanied by two armed ,mainiotes1 and said he had twenty more concealed about the town in case of danger4 ,he invited us to come with him into ,maina as far as ,dolus1 where his family lived1 a proposal we eagerly closed with1 and appointed the next morning4 ,,footnote3 #bh ,one ,colocotronis1 a chief of klephts1 attained great influence in the ,war of ,independence4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,trip ,,to ,,maina--,,its ,,relative ,,prosperity--,,return ,,to ,,kalamata4 ,,second ,,trip ,,to ,,maina--,,murginos--,,sparta--,,napoli ,,to ,,athens4 ,the ,mainiote border comes to within half a mile of ,kalamata1 and the neighbourhood of its ferocious population1 who are as savage and even braver than the ,turks1 makes the latter much meeker here than in other parts of the country--that is1 in a general way1 for they can be very fierce still on occasions4 ,a ghastly thing happened during our stay4 ,we heard one evening the report of a pistol in the house of the ,albanian guard which stood just under our windows4 ,it seemed one of the brutes had shot his brother in a quarrel4 ,here was a gruesome example under our eyes2 and besides ,i was told all sorts of hideous stories of ,mainiote and ,albanian cruelties which made my blood run cold1 and still spoils all my pleasure in thinking of this barbarous region4 ,early in the morning we embarked on a ,zantiote felucca1 lent us for the occasion1 and in an hour and a half reached the opposite coast of the bay1 near the ruins of a village1 of which we were told that it was destroyed and its inhabitants carried off for slaves by the ,barbary pirates4 ,ever since this event the villages have been built farther from the coast4 ,the village of ,dolus1 to which we were going1 is an hour's walk from the shore4 ,our friend's brother and a number of other men1 all armed to the teeth1 met us on the beach and saluted us1 as soon as we were recognised1 with a discharge of guns and pistols4 ,then we landed1 and set off for the village4 ,a difference in the appearance of the country struck me at once4 ,instead of the deserted languid air of other parts of ,greece1 here was a vigorous prosperity4 ,not an inch of available ground but was tilled and planted with careful husbandry1 poor and rocky as the soil was4 ,the villages were neater and less poverty-stricken1 and the population evidently much thicker than in the rest of ,greece4 ,the faces of the men were cheerful and open2 the women handsomer1 and their costume more becoming4 ,liberty seemed to have changed the whole countenance and manner of the people to gaiety and happiness4 ,everyone saluted us as we passed along1 and when we arrived at ,dolus the mother of our entertainer came out with the greatest frankness to meet us4 ,others came1 and with very engaging manners wished us many years1 a rare civility in ,greece4 ,the boys crowded round1 and said ,englishmen were fine fellows1 but why had we no arms8 ,how could we defend ourselves8 ,then they shook their fists at the ,turkish shore1 saying those ruffians dared not come amongst ,mainiotes4 ,our host's family had cooked us some chickens4 ,while we were sitting eating them a multitude of visitors1 women especially1 who had never seen ,franks before1 came in1 gazed1 and asked questions4 ,there was a great deal of laughing and talking1 but every man was heavily armed4 ,after dinner we went out for a walk and visited some remarkably pretty villages4 ,the name of one was ,malta1 the others ,i could not make out2 all more in the interior4 ,the churches were very pretty4 ,each had a tall steeple in the ,gothic style with bells1 which a boy1 proud of his freedom and anxious to show it1 running on1 would ring as we came up2 for1 as you know1 neither bells nor steeples are allowed by the ,turks4 ,we saw a new tower1 the tower of the beyzesday1 or captain of the ,mainiotes1 armed with two thirty-pounders which had been given him1 and though not very solidly built1 standing in a fine position4 ,we were told that all these towers are provisioned for a siege1 and one of those near ,kalamata has food for five years--not that ,i believe it4 ,all slept together1 ten of us covering the whole floor of a tiny room4 ,we went back in the morning to ,kalamata1 leaving behind us our host4 ,he had been warned by letter from ,kalamata not to go back there1 for reports had been circulated by the ,turks that he was gone to ,maina to raise recruits and he would probably be arrested if he landed4 ,we had been so interested with our glimpse of the free ,greeks--the ,greeks who had always been free from the days of ,sparta1 who had maintained their independence against ,rome1 ,byzantium1 the ,franks1 ,venetians1 and ,turks--that we longed to see more of them2 and the reports we heard of a temple near ,cape ,matapan gave us hopes of a return for the expense of an excursion4 ,we therefore agreed with a certain ,captain ,basili of ,dolus1 owner of a boat1 that he should take us to ,cyparissa and protect us into the interior4 ,meanwhile we went home to get our baggage c4 ,as we rowed along the shore a storm hung on ,mount ,elias1 rolling in huge coils among the high perched villages1 and the awful grandeur and air of savage romance it gave to the whole country whetted our appetites to the utmost4 ,when we landed at ,kalamata1 however1 a dispute about payment for the present trip led us to refer to the consul for a settlement1 and incidentally to our telling him our plans4 ,as soon as he heard them he objected vigorously4 ,the man we had engaged was1 he said1 a notorious murderer2 it was well known that he had assassinated a certain ,greek doctor for his money when he was bringing him from ,coron1 and he might do the same for us on the way to ,cyparissa4 ,it would be better if we insisted on going into ,maina to write to a certain ,captain ,murgino at ,scardamula and put ourselves under his protection4 ,as he was one of the heads of the ,mainiote clans1 and a man of power1 he would be able to guarantee our safety4 ,as this advice was supported by a ,french gentleman of ,cervu1 a ,monsieur ,shauvere1 who seemed to be reliable1 we took it1 and wrote that same evening to ,murgino2 but the first engagement had to be got rid of1 and that was not so easy4 ,whatever his intentions had been1 the boatman from ,dolus thought he had made a profitable engagement1 for he demanded #ej piastres indemnity1 first for expenses incurred and next for the slight4 ,he threatened to attack us on the way if we ventured to engage another boat4 ,finally we agreed to refer the dispute for settlement to the ,albanian ,mainiote1 our late host4 ,we received an answer from ,murgino to say that we should be very welcome1 and that he would send a guard to meet us four hours from his house4 ,we accordingly set off in the evening to go by land1 and arrived at night at a village called ,mandini2 and there we had to sleep1 for the road was too breakneck for us to go on in the dark4 ,our host was exceedingly hospitable1 and gave one a good impression of the free ,greeks4 ,early in the morning we went on to ,malta1 and met four of ,murgino's men come to meet us4 ,we also fell in with the young captain or chieftain of ,mainiotes on his way to ,kalamata4 ,he had a guard of eight or ten men1 all armed and handsomely dressed1 their hair trailing down their backs like true descendants of the ,spartans1 who combed their long hair before going into battle4 ,as regarding the origin of the name ,malta1 it may be called to mind that the ,venetians during their occupation mortgaged part of the ,morea to the ,knights of ,st4 ,john1 and this may have been one of their fortresses4 ,having hired mules to carry our luggage1 as the road is too bad for horses1 we proceeded to ,scardamula1 a distance of #a hour4 ,there we were rejoined by my servant ,dimitri1 whom ,i had sent on to arrange the affair of ,captain ,basili1 the ,dolus boatman4 ,he had found the man in a state of exasperation1 refusing to accept any accommodation1 saying it was an affair of honour1 and vowing that we should pay in another way4 ,the wife and mother of the ,albanian officer1 dreading his resentment1 had hung terrified on his 7,dimitri's7 arm1 assuring him that we should be assassinated on the road4 ,he himself arrived hardly able to speak with terror and pale as paper4 ,we did all we could to inspire him with a little courage1 both natural and ,dutch4 ,first we appealed to him as a man to show a good face1 and for the second we gave him a good and ample dinner1 and1 relying on our guard and on ourselves1 set out4 ,but before starting we begged our ,albanian friend to come1 if he could1 next day to ,scardamula1 bringing ,captain ,basili with him1 and the dispute should be referred to ,captain ,murgino for arbitration4 ,the path to ,scardamula--for there was nothing in the shape of a road--was now so difficult that we had to get off2 and1 even so1 it was to me perfectly wonderful how the mules ever got along4 ,there was nothing but rock1 and that all fissured and jagged limestone1 but they climbed over it like goats4 ,the situation of ,scardamula is infinitely striking4 ,at the gate of his castle ,captain ,murgino waited to receive us--a fat1 handsome old man4 ,at the first our rather strange appearance seemed to put him a little out of countenance1 and he received us awkwardly although kindly2 but after a time he appeared to regain confidence and became very cordial4 ',eat a good supper1 ,ingles archi mas' 7'my little ,englishman'71 he said to me1 and gave me the example4 ,he talked freely on the political state of ,maina4 ,he owned and regretted that the ,greeks had no leader1 and said he trusted that would not long be wanting1 and that shortly the great object of his desires would be realised2 but what that object was he would not explain4 ,it might be an invasion of the ,morea by the ,english1 seconded by a native insurrection which he would take a leading part in--or what not2 but he was careful to give me no hint4#bi ,his son was absent at a council of the ,greek chiefs at ,marathonisi4 ,the next morning we walked about his lands1 which were indescribably picturesque4 ,his castle stands on a rock in the bed of a river1 about a quarter of a mile from the bank4 ,it consists of a courtyard and a church surrounded by various towers4 ,there is a stone bench at his door1 where he sits surrounded by his vassals and his relations1 who all stand unless invited to sit4 ,the village people bring him presents1 tribute as it were1 of fruits1 fowls1 c4 ,on a lofty rock close by is a watch-tower1 where watch is kept night and day4 ,the whole gave us a picture of feudal life new and hardly credible to a nineteenth-century ,englishman4 ,behind the tower the mountains rise precipitously1 and culminate in the ,pentedactylon--a prodigious mountain of the ,taygetus range4 ,murgino made us an estimate of his dependents4 ,he has about #a1jjj men1 over whom he has absolute authority to call them out or to punish them as he thinks fit4 ,a few days before we came he had had an obstreperous subject1 who refused to obey orders1 executed4 ,moreover1 he showed a well in which he said he put those from whom he desired to extort money4 ,when times are hard and the olives fail he makes war upon his neighbours1 and either robs or blackmails them4 ,the old man assured me that one winter they brought back from #a1jjj to #a1ejj piastres1 from #ejl4 to #hjl41 a day4 ,such was our host and his surroundings4 ,as ,i told you1 our object was to examine some remains we had heard rumours of1 especially of a ,doric temple said to exist in the southern part of ,maina1 and1 by all we could hear1 in a tolerable state of preservation2 but when we saw the tremendous preparations made by our good captain we found the enterprise beyond all our calculations or means4 ,he declared he could not ensure our safety without his own attendance with a guard of forty men at the least4 ,at this we thought it best1 however regrettable1 to retire before the expenses we should incur should embarrass us in our return to ,athens4 ,so we only stayed two days with ,murgino1 and then returned to ,kalamata4 ,as you may suppose1 ,i was very sorry to lose an opportunity of perhaps making another discovery of importance1 but even as it was ,i did not regret to have made the visit into ,maina4 ,in no part of ,europe at any rate1 if indeed of the world1 could one find such singular scenes or come upon a state of society so exactly like that of our ancient barons4 ,the character of ,murgino himself was a study4 ,he was very hardy1 bold1 vigorous in mind and body1 used from a boy to battle with all kinds of reverses4 ,his father was driven out of his home by the ,turks1 who brought several frigates and regularly laid siege to ,scardamula4 ,he escaped1 but he was afterwards taken and hanged at ,tripolizza4 ,murgino himself escaped to ,coron1 where1 however1 he was discovered and put in chains4 ,a friendly priest brought him a file1 wherewith he effected his escape to the house of the ,english consul1 and was by him protected4 ,he then took service on board a ,french privateer1 and wandered into various parts of the ,levant4 ,after some time he reappeared at ,scardamula1 took possession of his father's castle1 and became one of the captains or leaders of the ,mainiotes4 ,then the ,turks returned and surrounded him a second time4 ,with a few followers he cut his way through and escaped to ,zante4 ,some months later he came back once more1 to find a neighbour had seized his possessions4 ,he collected friends and laid siege to him4 ,his rival was1 fortunately for him1 killed by a stroke of lightning during the siege1 and ,murgino came into his own again4 ,but he did not hold it long in peace4 ,he was again attacked by the ,turks in force4 ,this time he shut himself in the castle with #fb ,greeks1 who swore to die rather than yield4 ,for forty days they held the place with muskets against artillery1 till all his powder was spent and his towers in ruins4 ,then he sent a message to the enemy to say that if they would give him two cannon and some powder he would hold the castle a year4 ,having soothed his mind with this taunt1 he prepared to escape to the mountains4 ,first he sent his wife off by night1 and then followed with the few survivors of his men1 and contrived again to get to ,zante4 ,it is characteristic of the man that when he learnt that his son was hanged he called1 as he told me1 for another glass of rum1 saying ',che serve la melancolia8' ,among the ruffianly crew who loafed about the place he pointed me out one or two of the poor fellows who had remained hidden in the hills when he went to ,zante4 ,some had lost a toe or a finger in the frost2 others had been maimed in the siege4 ,one youth in particular he indicated1 saying ',this fellow's father was a fine fellow2 he was crushed in the falling of one of the towers6' ,every one had a history4 ,somehow1 before we parted1 ,i had got to feel a sort of affection for this ruthless cateran4 ,he had an uncommonly open frank manner1 he was certainly clean1 and he had an air of natural superiority which it was difficult to resist4 ,i should not have written so much about this if ,i had not thought it the most interesting part of the tour--but it had not1 ,i admit1 much architectural instruction to offer4 ,from ,kalamata we went to ,sparta1 over a rugged and picturesque road1 along the brink of precipices and over the ,taygetus4 ,some time ago it was infested by banditti1#cj and so it still is on the borders of ,maina4 ,we arrived late at a small village near ,mistra4 ,the road1 which passed among overhanging rocks and a wild and fantastic scenery1 the effect of which was heightened by the moonlight1 was so stony and rugged that we were obliged to walk by far the greater part of the way4 ,sometimes the shepherds on precipices above us would call out1 ',what men are ye8' ,and we answered1 ',good men4' ,there was no step of the road that had not its annals of murder or robbery4 ,one of our party1 to cheer us1 sang us the great deeds of a certain ,captain ,zaccani1 who had been something between a highwayman and a patriot not many years back1 infesting this part of the country4 ,sparta1 ,i need not tell you1 was strong only in its inhabitants4 ,it stood1 as no other ,greek city did1 in a plain4 ,there are no remains4 ,its present inhabitants1 far from being independent1 are the most oppressed1 the meanest and the stupidest of the ,greeks4 ,we stayed only three days for ,haller1 who had various drawings to make1 and then rode from ,mistra to ,tripolizza in one day4 ,haller had had a fall from his horse on the way which had strained him a good deal1 so we had to stop three days there also4 ,it is the capital of the ,morea1 and has a caimacam1 whom we went to call upon one evening4 ,it chanced to be during the ,ramazan4 ,he was very civil and gave us a bouyuruldu1 an order which provided us horses gratis to ,athens4 ,the details of the visit were very much the same as those of other official visits4 ,we drank coffee and smoked large pipes surrounded by a crowd of chiouks4 ,the large and well-lighted room was filled with ,albanian soldiers lying and sitting in all positions on the floor1 and we had to be careful in picking our way through them4 ,we did not stop longer at ,argos or ,tiryns than was necessary to verify ,gell's description4 ,at ,napoli di ,romagna1 where we were detained for want of horses1 we narrowly escaped the bastinado4 ,napoli is one of the chief fortresses of the ,morea1 and the custom on entering such places is to get off one's horse4 ,our servant1 who knew nothing of this1 was cruelly beaten by the guard4 ,when we came up we were told of it by the grooms who looked after our luggage1 and conjured by the ,panagia and the ,cross to dismount as we went in4 ,we1 however1 thought it unbecoming our dignity1 and rode boldly in4 ,the guard1 seeing so many hats1 was awed and said nothing2 but we could see by the frowns of the bystanders that our presumption was disapproved1 and when we complained to the pasha1 the head of the janissaries1 of the way our servant was mishandled1 he took very little notice of us4 ,generally speaking the ,turks in their fortresses are insufferably intolerant and insolent4 ,our treatment was no inducement to stay1 and we made on for ,athens as soon as we could4 ,we visited the sacred grove at ,epidaurus1#ca the ruins of ,mycen1#cb and stayed one day in ,corinth4 ,but we were glad to get to ,athens2 it was like home to us4 ,for three weeks ,i had slept with my clothes on1 without a bed1 and with only one blanket to wrap myself in4 ,,footnotes3 #bi ,it probably was the insurrection1 for when it occurred he took an important part in it4 ,he was the opponent of the ,mavro ,michali faction1 headed by ,petro ,bey4 #cj ,here it was that ,chevalier ,bronstedt was stopped next year and robbed3 vide infra4 #ca ,the ,hieron of ,epidaurus excavated by the ,archological ,society of ,athens4 #cb ,excavated by ,schliemann in #ahgf4 ,,chapter ,x ,,gina ,,marbles ,,called ,,for ,,by ,,british ,,government ,,ships--,,leaves ,,athens ,,for ,,crete ,,and ,,egypt ,,with ,,hon4 ,,francis ,,north--,,canea--,,condition ,,of ,,crete--,,by ,,land--,,retimo--,,kalipo ,,christo--,,candia--,,audience ,,of ,,the ,,pasha--,,his ,,band-- ,,the ,,archbishop--,,the ,,military ,,commandant--,,turkish ,,society--,,life ,,in ,,candia4 ,waiting for me in ,athens ,i found letters from my father detailing the measures he had taken in our favour concerning the marbles4 ,he had moved the ,prince ,regent1 who had given orders that #f1jjjl4 and a free entry should be offered for the collection1 and that a ship of war should be sent to fetch it4 ,the offer might be considered equal to #h1jjjl4 ,the ship might be expected at once4 ,here was a bitter disappointment to be unable to accept so splendid an offer1 and a painful embarrassment as well2 for ,i had led the ,government1 quite unintentionally1 to suppose that they had only to send for the marbles to secure them4 ,in consequence of which they were sending two great vessels at great expense1 whereas ,i should now have to tell the captain not only that the marbles were no longer in ,athens--but that they could not be handed over at all4 ,at this moment the ,honourable ,mr4 ,north1#cc an acquaintance already made in ,constantinople1 had turned up in ,athens1 and intended making an expedition to ,egypt up the ,nile as far as ,thebes4 ,he proposed to ,cockerell and ,foster to join him4 ,egypt had been part of the former's original scheme in planning his travels1 and the opportunity of sharing expenses was not one to be lost4 ,so it was agreed1 and all preparations were made for the journey4 ,they were to have started in the beginning of ,november1 but were delayed by unfavourable winds4 ,i was a month in ,athens1 for the most part unprofitably1 as all time spent in expectation must be4 ,every day we packed up1 to unpack again when the wind went contrary4 ,finally1 on ,november #bith1 the wished-for wind came1 and at the same time an express from ,captain ,percival of the brig-of-war ,pauline #be1 come for the marbles1 called us down to the ,pirus to see the ship sent by the ,prince ,regent4 ,it was raining in torrents4 ,nevertheless we set out1 with ,haller and ,linckh as well1 to explain matters4 ,i own my consternation was great when ,i saw the two big ships come on a bootless quest1 for which ,i was in a way answerable4 ,we had to tell ,captain ,percival not only that the marbles were now in ,zante1 but that even if they had been still here he could not have taken them1 as they were now to be sold by auction2 and1 finally1 as there was danger of ,zante being at any time attacked by the ,french1 to request him to remove them to ,malta for greater security4 ,at first ,captain ,percival was very indignant1 not unnaturally2 but when he had done his duty in this respect he was very civil and asked us to dine4 ,ale and porter1 which ,i had not seen for so long1 seemed delicious1 and ,i drank so much of it that when1 with ,north1 ,haller1 and ,stackelberg1 ,i went aboard our ,greek ship to bed1 ,i slept like a stone till the morning drum on the ,pauline woke me4 ,the wind was blowing fresh from the north4 ,we drew up our anchor2 ,haller and ,stackelberg shook us by the hand and went ashore4 ,and now for ,candia and ,egypt4 ,good port as the ,pirus is once you are inside1 to get in and out of it is very awkward4 ,the brig1 of course1 well handled1 had no difficulty2 but we failed altogether at the first attempt1 and at the next as near as possible got on to the rocks at the entrance4 ,the ,pauline laid to for us till we were out1 and then sailed ahead much more quickly than we were able to follow4 ,the day was bright1 the wind was fair1 and it was new and exhilarating to sail in such good company4 ,at gina1 where the temple stood up clear for us to see1 the brig and the transport lay to1 to land a pilot1 and we went in front1 but they soon caught us up again2 and when they passed us1 comparing their trimness and order with our state1 ,i saw why a ,greek always speaks with such awe of an ,english ship4 ,between ,hydra--a black and barren rock--and the mainland a storm1 which we just escaped1 swept along1 and our captain seeing it1 and thinking dirty weather might come on1 steered towards ,milo so as to be able to put in there in case of danger1 and we parted with our convoy4 ,of our party ,i was the only one who was not ill1 and appeared at dinner2 and as the air was close below among my sick friends1 ,i passed the night on deck in a seaman's coat4 ,in the morning ,candia was in sight1 and by midday we were in ,canea--only twenty-eight hours4 ,as we drew near1 the town1 with its many minarets1 all white and stretching along a flat1 with dark mountains1 peak above peak1 in very fine forms behind it1 had a most striking effect4 ,from a great distance one could distinguish the large arched arsenals built by the ,venetians for their galleys4 ,the port is difficult to enter1 and we nearly ran ashore here again by mistaking a breach in the wall which encloses the port for the entrance to it4 ,it is a gap which has once been mended by the ,turks1 but it was so ill done that it fell in again immediately2 and now it has been a ruin for some time and seems likely to remain one4 ,we dropped our anchor ill too1 so that the stem of our ship ran foul of some rocks1 but no harm was done4 ,we landed1 dressed la ,turque1 and ,i felt some 'mauvaise honte' in replying to the salutation of ,turks who took us for their fellows1 so ,i was not sorry to take shelter in the house of our consul1 ,sr4 ,capo ,grosso1 a native of ,spalatro1 with a pretty ,tartar wife from the ,crimea4 ,it appears that besides himself there are very few ,franks living here--only two families descended from the ,venetians1 and two other ,catholic families1 all kept in a perpetual tremor by the ,turks1 who are worse in ,crete than anywhere4 ,there are quarrels and murders every day between them and the ,greeks4 ,there never was such a state as the country is in4 ,the military power consists of a local militia of janissaries and none other1 so that their captains are able to terrorise the pasha into doing anything they please4 ,but the militia1 again1 is composed of various regiments1 and they are at variance with each other4 ,so that you have both anarchy and civil war4 ,fancy1 how nice6 ,the ,venetians long possessed the island1 and the fortifications and public buildings1 which are really very noble1 as well as every other decent thing in the place1 are of their production4 ,indeed1 in walking through the city1 judging by the look of the buildings1 one might imagine oneself in a ,frank country1 except that they are all left to go to rack and ruin4 ,the sea walls are so neglected that the port is almost destroyed4 ,it is1 as ,i said1 a fortified town1 and the ,turks are absurdly jealous of any stranger and possible spy4 ,one cannot stir out without being closely watched1 and they shoot at anything which incurs the slightest suspicion--a ,frankish hat1 for instance4 ,in consequence it was impossible to do any sketching1 however much ,i might wish to4 ,the weather looked thoroughly bad4 ,it poured all day1 with a north wind which forbade all thoughts of sailing4 ,to make the best use of our time1 it was proposed that we should make an expedition to see ,ida and the famous ,labyrinth2 but as ,mr4 ,north is no mountain climber he settled to wait in the ship for a fair wind to carry him to ,candia1 where whichever of us should arrive first was to await the other4 ,there was some delay in starting1 because the rascally ,turk from whom we first tried to job our horses came to a dispute with his agroates about the pay they were to get4 ,though he was to get ten piastres per horse1 he would only give them five4 ,as they could not agree1 the negotiation fell through and it was rather late before we got others4 ,we were ,douglas1#cd ,foster1 and myself1 the consul's dragoman and two janissaries4 ,outside the ramparts1 which are certainly strong1 one comes on a fine plain dotted with white villas and thick with olives4 ,one owner whose house we passed1 ,hagi ,imin ,effendi1 makes as many as #fj1jjj barrels of oil per annum1 which at #fj piastres a barrel represents a vast income4 ,having crossed the plain1 one comes to ,suda ,bay1 an excellent harbour1 a mile and a half or two miles in length4 ,the entrance is protected by an island with a famous fortress upon it which resisted the ,turks for thirty-five years after the reduction of the rest of ,crete4 ,it has #bfj pieces of cannon now4 ,soapmaking is one of the chief industries of ,crete4 ,along ,suda ,bay were numbers of salt-pans for winning the salt wanted for the soapmaking4 ,a ,venetian road1 once good1 now in a ruinous condition1 led us along a cliff flanked with watch-towers1 and presently turned inland4 ,before us was a beautiful hilly country covered with olives1 and in the distance ,ida white with snow4 ,on our right the ,sphakiote ,mountains1 high and pointed1 very like ,maina to look at1 and not unlike it in respect of its population1 though it has not been quite so fortunate4 ,the ,sphakiotes maintained their independence till forty-three years ago1 but then they were reduced by the ,turks1 and have been paying taxes ever since1 and furnishing sailors for the ,turkish shipping4 ,these sailors act as hostages for the good behaviour of their relatives4 ,all the same they are a bold people never without arms1 and prompt in the use of them4 ,we slept that night at a wretched khan at ,neokorio in company with our horses and their vagabond drivers1 and fleas in infinite abundance4 ,thomas1 ,douglas's ,english servant1 made an ill-timed joke here1 which might have been awkward among such savage people4 ,the ,turks at suppertime pressed round him to see what was in our food-bag1 and he1 to be rid of them1 told them it was full of pork4 ,at this they expressed the greatest disgust1 pressed upon us to know if it was true1 and refused to eat anything that night4 ,however1 nothing more came of it4 ,fleas and the manifold varieties of stinks drove us to get through our night's rest as quickly as possible4 ,we were up and away two hours before daybreak1 scrambling along a rough road4 ,when the sun rose the effect of it on the snow-covered ,sphakiote ,hills was magnificent4 ,our way was through a country rich in olives and full of beautiful scenes4 ,well situated at the entrance to a valley leading up from the sea1 as a defence against piratical descents1 was a fortress with a ,greek3 pyrgos or watch-tower1 built by the ,venetians4 ,it is of the fine workmanship they always used1 with well-arranged quarters for troops1 moat1 c41 all very neat and well executed4 ,there we went down on to the sands and continued along them for a length of time till we reached a small river and the ruins of a splendid ,venetian bridge4 ,thence still along the seaside1 but over rocks and past watch-towers standing within gunshot of each other1 till we rose again on to a height from which we gained a grand view of ,retimo4 ,we crossed a bridge1 a double arch of great depth1 prodigiously effective1 and there ,i stopped to make a sketch before descending into the town1 while the luggage went on4 ,but when we followed ,i was met by the dragoman before ,i had dismounted4 ,he looked very pale1 and telling me that my stopping by the road had been remarked and commented upon1 entreated me not to say what ,i had been doing1 but to give in fact a much more natural reason4 ,i had already1 at ,canea1 been warned of the danger of drawing the fortress2 so1 my love of truth notwithstanding1 ,i was obliged for the dragoman's sake1 he being responsible1 to do as he asked4 ,we were received into the house of ,achmet ,aga1 the karahayah4 ,he was not at home himself at the time1 but his nephews and relatives made us welcome4 ,as soon as he came in we were ushered into an upper room into his presence4 ,he was a remarkably handsome old man with a long white beard4 ,he received us with a proud1 not to say cold1 hospitality2 so much so that when we thanked him for his polite offer of his house1 as he said it was ours1 he looked the other way4 ,as we drank coffee we made our apologies for our dirty appearance1 but he only said he feared we were not comfortable and begged us to rest ourselves4 ,his manner was haughty not only to us but to the wretched flatterers who came to pay him homage2 it was such that ,i was quite offended4 ,his servants treated him with the most abject respect1 and even his two nephews1 men of thirty or thereabouts1 sat at the side without the divan1 not venturing to approach him4 ,and yet1 notwithstanding his manner1 his treatment of us was hospitality and civility itself4 ,he had a son of sixteen or seventeen years dressed in a ,bosnian costume--one of the handsomest lads ,i ever saw1 like the youths one imagines in reading the ,arabian tales4 ,he came by his father's order to sit by me and entertain me4 ,i asked him if he had ever travelled1 and whether he would come to ,egypt with me and see the world4 ,he replied very politely that to please me he would do so4 ,the audience being over1 we went out and strolled down to the port4 ,it has lately been deepened by a ,maltese engineer1 but is very small1 and might hold fifteen or twenty polaccas at the most4 ,after seeing it we returned to get ready for the dinner to which our host had invited us4 ,as usual in such houses one had to dress in the midst of a crowd of servants1 negroes1 dervishes1 and hangers-on4 ,we put on our best clothes and went up4 ,in the corner of the sofa or raised divan was placed a large round tray on a small stool1 and we sat round it cross-legged4 ,over our knees was stretched a long napkin from one to the other1 and a small one was thrown over each man's shoulder4 ,we ate with our fingers1 pinching off bits of meat from the same plate in the middle4 ,our janissary was invited to eat with us4 ,the dinner was dressed in the harem4 ,the servant tapped at the door communicating with it from the passage1 and the dishes were handed in4 ,there were many of them1 and they were sent away by our host without any apparent notice of any disposition on our part to detain them4 ,we had a stew of fowls1 another of mutton1 some strange made-dishes1 a soup1 a number of cakes1 and ,i particularly remember some made of flour and cheese which were excellent4 ,we greased our fingers handsomely and washed them as soon as we had done4 ,for us there was wine1 but ,achmet would not drink any himself3 not from virtue1 he said1 but because it did not agree with him4 ,the handsome son waited without the divan and took orders from his father4 ,before dinner was over an old ,turk came in with a fiddle and played or told long stories the whole evening4 ,i was obliged to him1 for it supplied the place of conversation1 which did not seem to flourish4 ,in the evening numbers of ,turks came in to see the ',inglesi1' and would have pressed forward1 but until our dinner was done they were kept outside the sofa4 ,afterwards we formed into a sort of conversazione--very few words and much gravity4 ,finally the beautiful youth1 the host's son1 made beds for us of two quilts and a pillow on the sofa1 and there we slept4 ,i wonder what a young squire in ,england would say if his father told him to make beds for his guests4 ,next morning we were much pressed to stay both by our host and his son1 but we had to resist1 much as we had been pleased with our entertainment4 ,so we distributed plentiful bakshish and rode away4 ,our road lay along the shore1 with fine views of ,retimo and the ,sphakiote ,hills4 ,then over a high ridge to a khan at the foot of ,ida4 ,here we had some refreshments and a dispute with the khangee1 who tried to steal one of our spoons under cover of great professions of friendliness4 ,after ,avlopotamo the road became very dangerous4 ,it ran by the side of awful precipices and over slippery rocks1 and it was getting dark4 ,indeed1 had it been lighter ,i don't suppose we should have ridden over it4 ,in one place our janissary fell1 and his horse's legs dangled over the precipice in a way to make one's blood run cold4 ,no roads in ,maina could be worse4 ,the light of a fire beckoned us from afar to the monastery of ,kalipo ,christo1 but we found the gate closed and the papades not to be seen4 ,they were frightened and had hidden themselves4 ,the fact is1 the ,turks in the country here are so brutal and lawless that if they once get into a monastery of this kind they eat and drink all they can get1 never think of paying1 and perhaps rob or murder some of the monks4 ,there were several little boys hanging about to peep at us1 one of whom our janissary caught1 and by drawing his sword and threatening to imbrue it in his blood he terrified him into fetching the monks out of their concealment4 ,once in1 the papades were very communicative4 ,they told us that their convent was not freehold1 and that it belonged to a ,turk of ,canea1 who exacted an exorbitant rent4 ,the ruinous condition of the villages which we observed as we came along was due1 they said1 to the earthquake of ,february #ad1 #ahaj4 ,it came1 as they always do1 with a west wind1 and as many as two thousand lives were lost4 ,a blackguardly ,tartar came and sat with us1 with whom we presently quarrelled1 and finally1 when his behaviour grew intolerable1 we had to kick him out4 ,we left early1 but our ,tartar must have been ashamed of himself1 for we saw nothing of him2 he had gone on4 ,the road wound up and up among barren rocks for about five hours1 till we reached the ridge and a stupendous view of ,candia1 ,ida1 and the sea4 ,in three hours more we reached ,candia1 and took up our quarters in the house of a ,jew4 ,there1 in the course of the evening1 we received a visit from the dragoman of the pasha1 a very stupid ,greek1 who tried to be very1 very grand1 and later from the master of the pasha's household1 ,chiouk ,emene1 a most urbane ,turk4 ,he was very particularly proud of his watch1 and produced it1 compared it with ours1 and begged me to say his was the best4 ,we had to wait till the pasha should be ready to receive us at one o'clock4 ,then he sent to us1 and we walked off through the streets to his palace1 locally known as the porte4 ,the entrance was surrounded with a crowd of janissaries4 ,when we had passed them we were ushered into the room of the secretary1 whom we found sitting in one corner of his sofa1 surrounded with agas in so much state that ,i mistook him for the pasha himself4 ,we were there but a few minutes1 but long enough to see that he must be a man of talent4 ,we afterwards learnt that he was and had many accomplishments4 ,he could write1 ride1 and play the djerid better than anyone4 ,the djerid he could cast as high as a minaret4 ,presently we were led through a crowd of servants into the presence of the pasha4 ,he was in the corner1 sitting in great magnificence4 ,his pelisse was worth #bj1jjj piastres4 ,by his side was a diamond-hilted dagger and two snuff-boxes set in diamonds and pearls4 ,three chairs1 covered with red brocade1 were placed before him for us to sit on4 ,our two dragomans stood on either side of us1 and1 at each word spoken and answered to the pasha1 moved their heads and their hands from their mouth to their head4 ,the conversation was as follows4 ,we were asked whence we came1 and when we had replied1 the friendship between the ,porte and ,england was referred to1 and the pasha desired the ,jew--our host--to treat us1 being ,englishmen1 with all possible attention4 ,the mention of authority led the pasha to tell us that he commanded in ,retimo and ,canea1 as well as in ,candia4 ,he next begged to know if we brought any news2 whether there had been any fighting in the west of ,europe2 and whether ,buonaparte had put into execution his threat of invading ,england4 ,to this we replied that he knew better than to try4 ,sweetmeats were then handed round1 and rose-water and other essences sprinkled out of narrow-necked bottles on to our hands and wiped with a beautifully embroidered napkin4 ,after about half an hour we rose1 and the pasha having said ',you are welcome3 ,i am glad of your arrival1' we withdrew4 ,our departure was marked by the usual battle among the chiouks for bakshish4 ,our treatment by the pasha had had a great effect throughout the city1 so that when we walked through it we were everywhere stared at as foreign grandees1 just as the ,persian ambassador was in ,london4 ,as we passed people invited us into their houses1 and a boy from a cafan threw down hot water before us1 a thing we understood to be an altogether exceptional compliment1 and which had of course to be exceptionally rewarded4 ,it was now about two hours after midday1 and at that hour it seems the band of the pasha always plays to the public4 ,we saw it sitting on the top of a house1 and stopped in a shop over the way to hear it discoursing what appeared to me to be the most excruciating discords4 ,when it was over two chiouks came forward1 crying1 ',pray first for the grand signor1 and then for our pasha4' ,we turned home1 and found that the ,emene aga had just been1 bringing the compliments of the pasha and a present consisting of six loaves of sugar1 three packets of wax candles1 twenty in a packet1 and three pots of honey4 ,we expressed our lively gratitude in all the best ,greek we could command4 ,in the evening the pasha sent us his band to entertain us4 ,it consisted of six performers1 mostly ,persians4 ,their instruments were a dulcimer1 a violin of three strings held in the right hand1 the bow in the left1 a ,persian pipe which had some really beautiful tones1 melancholy1 soft1 and sentimental1 a guitar with a very long handle1 a panpipe with twenty-one pipes1 and a double drum1 which was beaten by the man who did the singing4 ,i could not observe that they had guidance in their playing1 except such as the ear gave them2 but by dint of practice they managed to keep their instruments together1 and the result was1 ,i thought1 rather tender and pleasing4 ,as for our poor dragoman1 who had heard no music since he had left ,constantinople1 he was quite overcome and dissolved in tears4 ,we paid a visit to the archbishop4 ,he seemed to have as many religious attendants as the pasha had secular ones1 but he received us in a very unaffected way at his door and showed us over his church4 ,his answers to our questions showed him to have very little learning4 ,pausanias he had never even heard of4 ,thence we went on to pay a visit to the captain of 'fourteen1' the chief of the five regiments here1 the military commandant in fact4 ,he has under him from #be1jjj to #cj1jjj troops1 second only for insubordination and lack of discipline to those at ,canea1 where they are in chronic open rebellion4 ,we found him in his room1 a fat vulgar man with a good many handsome arms about him2 among them a shield which he told me is still in use4 ,ali1 our janissary1 showed me afterwards how it is handled1 and anything more barbarous or inexpert ,i never saw4 ,being such rare birds1 and received with so much form and cordiality by the pasha1 all the notabilities were anxious to see us4 ,many ,turkish agas and others signified their wish to visit us1 and our poor house1 alas6 alas6 was full of them from morning to night4 ,some were polite1 but most of them merely curious to view us4 ,few questions were asked1 and those few not in the least intelligent4 ,in fact1 we have been acting the part of embassy1 and we could not do otherwise4 ,received and stared at and made much of as we were1 we were obliged to try and do credit to our country4 ,besides there was nothing else to do2 we were practically under surveillance4 ,no drawings could be made1 nor studies of ,mount ,ida or the beautiful country4 ,i was always fuming over the waste of time1 but there was no help for it4 ,as soon as the novelty is worn off1 ,turks and ,turkish manners become very uninteresting4 ,their outward bearing is very dignified1 but their society is inexpressibly dull4 ,those few who had travelled ever so little1 even so far as ,malta1 could be distinguished at once4 ,a little glimpse of the world had sufficed to remove their ridiculous ,turkish superbia and make them respect their neighbours4 ,,footnotes3 #cc ,chancellor of the ,university of ,corfu1 later ,lord ,guilford4 #cd ,the ,hon4 ,frederick ,s4 ,n4 ,douglas1 author of an essay entitled ,on ,points of ,resemblance between ,ancient and ,modern ,greeks4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,expedition ,,to ,,the ,,labyrinth--,,delli ,,yani--,,the ,,interior--,,the ,,return ,,to ,,candia--,,life ,,there--,,rejoins ,,mr4 ,,north--,,bad ,,weather--,,expedition ,,to ,,egypt ,,abandoned--,,scio--,,leaves ,,mr4 ,,north ,,to ,,go ,,to ,,smyrna--,,storms--,,danger ,,and ,,cold--,,arrives ,,at ,,smyrna4 ,on the second day we started on our expedition to visit the ,labyrinth4 ,it was delightful to get away from a place where we were little better than ,state prisoners1 unable to go out at all unless in form1 and then obliged to stay within the walls for fear of being taken for spies if we went outside4 ,when we had to pass through them to get out ,i saw that the works are really very strong1 with a ditch which can be flooded1 and walls thirty feet high4 ,at night we reached ,schallous1 a small village1 and passed the night in the house of an old ,greek4 ,both he and his wife were terrified at first1 as we were in ,turkish dress1 and they had suffered terribly at the hands of the ,turks4 ,he told me afterwards that his son1 after an absence of five years1 had come home1 and the very first night some ,turks had broken into the house1 eaten and drunk all they could lay hands on1 and finally murdered the poor youth4 ,next day1 by ,hagiospiliotissa to the convent of ,s4 ,georgio4 ,our janissaries here gave us a sample of the tyranny of ,turks by preparing for us and themselves a magnificent repast1 and getting drunk and insulting the papades4 ,three hours more of hilly country1 commanded at intervals by fortified towers 7kopia71 brought us to the foot of ,ida4 ,in ancient times1 as well as now1 towns of importance in these parts were generally found by the sea1 which was their source of wealth2 but the greatness of ,gortyna1 though so far inland1 was no doubt due to the magnificent cornlands of the rich plain of ,messara4 ,as ,i guess1 the town stood on a pointed hill overlooking it4 ,in a steep part of the hill looking towards the plain is an inconspicuous hole in the rock1 unmarked by any architectural or structural feature4 ,this is the entrance to the ,labyrinth4#ce ,we had brought a quantity of string for a clue1 which we rolled on two long sticks1 then lit torches and went in4 ,at first one enters a vestibule out of which lead several openings4 ,two of the three1 perhaps four1 dark entrances are blocked up1 but one remains open4 ,this we followed1 and for three mortal hours and more we groped about among intricate passages and in spacious halls4 ,the windings bewildered us at once1 and my compass being broken ,i was quite ignorant as to where ,i was4 ,the clearly intentional intricacy and apparently endless number of galleries impressed me with a sense of horror and fascination ,i cannot describe4 ,at every ten steps one was arrested1 and had to turn to right or left1 sometimes to choose one of three or four roads4 ,what if one should lose the clue6 ,a poor madman had insisted on accompanying us all the way from ,candia4 ,he used to call me ,st4 ,michael2 ,douglas1 ,st4 ,george2 and ,foster1 ,minos4 ,we knew him as ,delli ,yani4 ,much against our will he persisted in following us into the cavern1 and when we stopped1 going off with a boy who had a lantern4 ,conceive our horror when we found suddenly that he had disappeared4 ,there in that awful obscurity he might wander about till death relieved him4 ,we sent back two men along the clue with torches to shout for him1 and listened anxiously1 but the ,turks were quite unconcerned4 ,god1 they said1 takes care of madmen4 ,we went on1 and sure enough after about an hour ,delli ,yani turned up with the boy1 who was horribly frightened4 ,we entered many chambers2 in some were ,venetian names1 such as ,spinola2 in another1 ',hawkins #agid1' ',fiott' and other ,englishmen1 and many names of ,jews4 ,all the culs de sac were infested with bats1 which were very annoying1 and rose in thousands when one of our party fired a pistol4 ,in one place is a spring4 ,here and there we saw some lichen1 and there were occasional signs of metallic substances1 but not enough to support the idea of its having been a mine4 ,the stone is sandy1 stratified1 and easily cut1 the air dry1 and it appears to me that the most probable purpose of this wonderful excavation was as a secure storehouse for corn and valuables from the attacks of robbers in the days of ,minos4 ,the work was plainly all done with the chisel4 ,the passage is always eight or ten feet wide1 and four1 five1 six1 eight1 or ten feet or more high4 ,in many places it had fallen in4 ,the peasants tell all sorts of stories about it4 ,they told me that in one place there are reeds and a pool1 and that the hole goes right through the mountain for three miles2 that a sow went in and came out seven years after with a litter of pigs2 and so on4 ,we slept at ,hagios ,deka1 left it at dawn and rode close to the foot of ,ida through a very rich country1 and in spite of waiting an hour on the road1 reached ,candia in seven hours and a half4 ,it was evident that for purposes of his own our janissary had taken us something like fifteen hours out of our way in coming1 and we had a serious dispute with him in consequence4 ,our hurrying back was of no use4 ,there was no prospect of our getting away4 ,candia4--,we have plenty of time on our hands and can only employ it in the worst possible way by the assistance of the agas1 who in the name of dullness come and pass away their ennui in our company4 ,to crown our bliss1 imagine us sleeping1 feeding1 and sitting all in one room1 without the possibility of finding a hole to hide our heads alone in4 ,what was to me perhaps the worst affliction of all1 was that to entertain our guests we had to have music1 wearing on unceasingly in melancholy monotony4 ,our situation1 in fact1 was getting to be very trying4 ,we had a visit from our friend ,alilah ,agas1 who begged us to send for music1 which was brought4 ,then he wished the girls of the house 7,jewesses7 to come up and dance1 and had we not been there no doubt he would have compelled them to come4 ,as it was1 we discountenanced it1 and he gave it up4 ,but he is a ,turk2 which is as good as to say utterly unprincipled4 ,he told me himself that in raising recruits in ,anatolia for the ,bey of ,tunis1 he gave them three hundred piastres apiece1 and set it down as six hundred4 ,that dishonesty and bestiality go hand in hand with ignorance is well seen among the ,turks4 ,moreover they lack the civilising influence of women in their society4 ,as soon as their affected gravity is laid aside1 they betray the vilest indecency of feeling4 ,one cannot give instances1 but the fact was painfully brought home to us4 ,at last1 on the #bdth ,december1 a note came from ,mr4 ,north to say that he was at ,dia1 the island across the bay4 ,we replied begging him to stay where he was1 for that if he came to ,candia he would certainly be delayed4 ,at the same time we sent to the pasha1 begging to have the gate of the port opened in case ,mr4 ,north came4 ,the gate1 however1 was never opened4 ,happily he did not come1 and the dragoman we had sent with our message had to sleep at a cafan outside the gate1 and we lowered dinner down to him with a piece of string over the walls4 ,for a wonder we were left alone for this evening1 and ,douglas and ,i walked about in our little ,greek3 peribol by moonlight1 and thought of home and happy ,christmas parties there and our dismal ,christmas out here4 ,amongst other subjects we talked of the divine ,mrs4 ,siddons4 ,i trust you never omit my love and duty to her1 and my request that she will not forget her devoted admirer during his wanderings4 ,you have never told me whether she intends ever to go on the stage again4#cf ,we went to pay a farewell visit to the pasha4 ,we found him sitting in the same state as before--in full dress1 with his diamond-hilted dagger in his girdle and several magnificently rich snuff-boxes on the couch beside him4 ,our conversation1 made up of his questions and our answers1 lasted half an hour4 ,he said he had seen a drawing of the ,labyrinth which ,i had done1 and that it was very beautiful4 ,what was the age of the ,labyrinth8 the name of the king who made it8 the age of the world8 c4 c4 ,our answers were taken down1 and our names4 ,finally he said our visit was agreeable to him1 and bade us cordially farewell4 ,then walking down to the port we took two boats for ourselves and our baggage1 and urging the boatmen to hurry1 in our eagerness not to miss a chance of sailing that evening if the wind allowed it1 we reached ,dia in two hours2 and there was ,mr4 ,north very pleased to see us4 ,we now watched the wind for a chance of getting out of port1 but it shifted unsteadily from point to point1 and there we remained twelve days4 ,my occupations were to wander about over the desert island1 draw1 and read a great deal4 ,it was dull1 no doubt1 but nothing to the active boredom of society in ,candia4 ,mr4 ,north had several excellent cases of books1 and ,i fell upon ,gibbon1 and became entirely absorbed in it4 ,at last the wind changed1 the captain set all hands to work1 and we got out of port1 but lay outside rolling the whole day in a dead calm4 ,towards evening the wind came strong from the south1 and our captain1 always afraid to beat against it1 let it drive us with it to the north1 so that in the night we passed ,nio1 and in the morning found ourselves among the ,cyclades between ,paro and ,siphanto1 into the latter of which the captain begged leave to put1 for he said the weather looked dirty4 ,the harbour of ,siphanto1 which is called ,pharo1 is rather exposed to the south1 but is otherwise good4 ,there is the usual chapel to the ,panagia at the entrance4 ,i had caught such a violent cold and fever from sleeping on deck the night before that ,i was forced to go to bed and stop there for the next two days1 so that ,i was prevented from going ashore and visiting the town with ,north and ,foster4 ,it lies about one hour off on the hill1 the houses scattered and looking from a distance like the broken remains of a wall4 ,above is a castle1 apparently of the time of the ,dukes of the ,archipelago4 ,foster found nothing there of interest except numbers of pretty girls1 some of whom were so pressing that he found it difficult to get away alone4 ,the fact is the men of the island1 being mostly sailors1 are away at sea1 and the ladies1 being left in a majority1 make the love which in other countries is made to them4 ,the costume1 a ,venetian bodice and high bonnet1 with very short petticoats1 is pretty and peculiar4 ,there are no ,turks in the island1 but some ,turkish sailors lying in the port took offence at the fine clothes of ,north and ,douglas1 saying we were ,romaics1 and had no right to ridicule their ,faith by wearing their sacred dress4 ,they even threatened to give stronger proofs of their displeasure than by mere words4 ,however1 next morning we were towed out of port2 but being becalmed all day outside1 ,mr4 ,north1 who had been stirred by the remonstrances of the ,turks just mentioned1 sent in a boat1 and got a wig1 a pair of shoes and breeches for his own wear4 ,next day we were still lying becalmed among the ,cyclades1 but the next a light breeze sprang up and carried us northwards through the passage towards ,scio2 for ,mr4 ,north1 tired of our delays1 having lost all confidence in our captain1 and frightened at the violence of the winds1 had finished by making up his mind to give up the voyage to ,egypt2 and this caprice1 by which all our time and immense expenses were wasted1 necessarily involved us all4 ,i must say ,i was bitterly disappointed4 ,but luck was against us2 we could not afford to make the journey alone1 and ,i had to make the best of it4 ,it took us two days to get to ,scio4 ,a steady wind carried us gently on from ,mykoni1 and we seemed to enter a large lake3 on one side were the mountains of ,anatolia2 on the other1 the left1 the ,isle of ,scio1 richly cultivated and populous4 ,the whole coast is covered with the so-called mastic villages4 ,the mastic plant1 which is cultivated mainly on the east side--the side we were looking at--of the island1 is a high evergreen4 ,it is gathered much as resin is from firs1 and the annual crop is about #f1jjj okes1 all of which goes to ,constantinople4 ,besides mastic1 the island produces a vast quantity of fruit1 which also goes to the capital4 ,the population is very large1 almost entirely ,greek4 ,compared to the wretched ,cretans1 they are very independent1 both men and women4 ,the latter paint extravagantly and wear an ugly costume2 but ,i must say that on a festa1 such as the day after our arrival1 being the #acth of ,january and ,new ,year's ,day in ,greece1 the crowds of them dressed in their best1 sitting on either side of the street1 looked as brilliant as banks of flowers4 ,before leaving we went to see the chief curiosity of the island--viz4 ,homer's ,school4 ,it lies northwards1 along the shore1 about an hour's ride4 ,you arrive first at a fall of a small stream into the sea1 and a little above is a singular hanging rock1 the top cut smooth into a circular floor about #bj feet across4 ,in the centre an altar is left1 on which are carved in bas-relief1 on three sides1 greyhounds1 and on the fourth--the front--something resembling the head and breast of a sphinx4 ,it looks south-east4 ,the situation is exceedingly pretty1 but why it should be called ,homer's ,school ,i cannot conceive4 ,it was more probably an altar to some deity whose shrine was near--possibly the deity of the beautiful spring below4 ,there is in ,scio an agreeable polyglot society of merchants of all nations living together in harmony4 ,one may find an ,english family where ,english is the only language not spoken1 the men perhaps speaking a little badly1 and the women going to church on ,sunday and not understanding a word4 ,as ,mr4 ,north intends to remain here and ,douglas is starting homewards by way of ,st4 ,petersburg1 ,foster and ,i took leave of them and sailed for ,smyrna in the evening4 ,we were carried gently along between ,scio and the mainland till we reached the north end of the passage4 ,there we fell in with a storm4 ,the wind rose very strong2 all around us grew fearfully black1 and close to us fell a waterspout4 ,hereupon the man at the helm sunk terrified on his knees and made a large cross in the air with his hand4 ,but our old pilot ordered him to look to the helm1 for that he would save us from the danger4 ,drawing out a knife with a black handle 7a very important point1 ,i understand71 he with it made also a cross in the air1 and then stuck it into the deck and pronounced the words3 ,greek3 ,en arch n ho logos1 c4 7',in the beginning was the ,word4'7 ,whereupon1 or very shortly after1 the waterspout did disperse and our pious ,greek took to himself all the credit for having saved us from a considerable danger4 ,our next fright was that we should hardly be able to clear ,cape ,boronu1 the point of the ,gulf of ,smyrna1 but we did just manage to do that also4 ,the wind changed about several times1 till presently it came down in a heavy gale from the north and continued to increase1 till all was confusion and terror on board4 ,and indeed we were in a very awkward plight2 for our ship was a very bad sailer and we were on a lee shore with a wind she could make no head against4 ,besides1 the rain and the hail prevented our seeing anything4 ,the captain completely lost his head1 trembled with fear1 and began reproaching us for persuading him to leave ,scio4 ,the only man who kept his presence of mind was the pious old pilot4 ,he knew of a port near by1 where we might possibly gain shelter1 and by his great skill we succeeded in arriving there2 but it was neck or nothing4 ,the smallest mismanagement and we should have been dashed on the rocks4 ,as it was1 we as near as possible ran on to them1 owing to the anchor being let down too late2 for the ship1 in swinging round1 drove towards them with appalling violence4 ,the captain fell on his knees1 and we all expected the ship to be dashed to pieces4 ,she actually swung up to within three yards of the rocks1 and there the anchor held us4 ,we all drew a deep breath and thanked our stars4 ,it had been a very near thing4 ,for days the wind was still against us1 and piercingly cold4 ,we stayed where we were4 ,i was thankful to have ,pope's ',homer' with me as a consolation4 ,our vessel is managed on the system in use at ,hydra1 ,syra1 ,spezzia1 c1 viz4 that half the profits of a voyage go to the captain or proprietor1 and the other half to the crew4 ,sometimes the members of the crew have also shares in the venture1 and so are doubly interested2 sometimes the captain is sole proprietor and supercargo4 ,the system ensures a brisk co-operation1 as everyone is interested in the success of the venture4 ,on the #bjth we were still in the same place1 the wind still blowing from the ,n4,n4,e4--a ,greco ,levante1 as it is called--and the cold as bitter as ever it is in ,england4 ,snow fell and froze on the deck4 ,the sea1 which was warmer than the air1 gave off a mist which rose from it in a thick steam4 ,one of the sailors told me of some antiquities inland1 and ,i tried to get to them2 but first of all it was difficult to persuade the crew to turn out to put me ashore4 ,they complained of the cold1 and would not leave the cabin1 where they were crouching over the fire4 ,once on shore ,i found everything frozen--ice rather thick--and when ,i got up to the town ,i found the antiquities were about three hours off1 and nobody could give me any clear account of them2 so ,i had to give it up and return to ,pope's ',homer' and the cabin4 ,we lay here in all eight days--till the #bbnd--shivering in a filthy cabin among the sailors1 utterly idle and half starved4 ,at last on that day we were able to move to the island of ,vourlac1 where we added two more days of wretchedness to our account2 and then1 when we had consumed every particle of food except our salt fish1 we found a boat to carry us to ,smyrna4 ,the captain of the ship would not stir4 ,the weather was still very rough1 and the wretched coward waited another eight days before he ventured up4 ,no one who has not experienced it1 can have an idea of the horrors of a storm in a ,greek brig4 ,the sailors1 out of all discipline or order1 run about all over the ship in the most frantic attitudes of dismay1 with their bushy heads of hair flying in all directions1 and scream contrary orders to each other4 ,then the boldest1 even if he be but the cabin boy1 takes the command1 abuses the captain and encourages the rest by his orders and example4 ,all is in confusion1 and if one escapes shipwreck it is more by good luck than by good management4 ,,footnotes3 #ce ,recent excavations by ,messrs4 ,evans and ,hogarth throw quite a different light on the true nature of the ,labyrinth4 #cf ,mrs4 ,siddons 7#agee-ahca7 formally retired from the stage in #ahab1 but continued to appear occasionally until many years later4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,life ,,in ,,smyrna--,,trip ,,to ,,trios--,,foster ,,falls ,,in ,,love--,,cockerell ,,starts ,,alone ,,for ,,town ,,of ,,seven ,,churches--,,pergamo--,,knifnich--,,sum eh--,,commerce ,,all ,,in ,,the ,,hands ,,of ,,greeks--,,karasman ,,oglu--,,turcomans--,,sardis--,,allah ,,sheri--,,crosses ,,from ,,valley ,,of ,,hermus ,,to ,,that ,,of ,,the ,,meander--,,hierapolis --,,danger ,,of ,,the ,,country--,,turns ,,westwards4 ,after our experiences of danger1 discomfort1 and cold at sea1 ,smyrna seemed to us a paradise of delightfulness4 ,the consul received us very hospitably1 and introduced us to various acquaintance and to the pleasures of the carnival which was going on4 ,to you in ,england its diversions would have appeared vulgar and flat4 ,to us it was the quintessence of gaiety to meet the masques1 bad as they were1 with their forced hilarity1 passing noisily from one ,frank house to another4 ,on the last days of the carnival there were processions1 than which nothing could be more ridiculous4 ,there was a ,bacchus on a barrel with various spouts about his body which1 when turned1 distributed wine to the populace2 and about the car it rode on1 piped and danced a number of wretches dressed in nankeen stained to a flesh-colour and hung with faded leaves and flowers4 ,there followed on another car the ',illness and ,death of ,bacchus4' ,he was in bed surrounded by a procession of weeping bacchanals1 priests1 doctors1 glisters1 and other remedial engines of gigantic dimensions4 ,in sober daylight such a sight calls for its enjoyment for an amount of lightheartedness ,englishmen do not at all moments possess--but we1 under the circumstances1 were very much amused4 ,we would have started at once on a tour of the ,seven ,churches if the road had been clear4 ,for the moment1 however1 it is blocked by the presence of a pasha1 who with four thousand troops is raiding and making war on his own account4 ,his army is stationed just across our path1 and ,i have been strongly advised to wait until the storm is passed over4 ,i am really not sorry to have such a good reason for remaining a little longer where ,i am4 ,the weather is still very severe and quite unfit for travelling4 ,our chief friend in ,smyrna is a ,mr4 ,thomas ,burgon1 married to a ,smyrniote lady4 ,with him we started on ,february #ae to make a little trip of four days to ,boudron1 the ancient ,trios4 ,we went in an open boat up the gulf to ,vourlac1 that is to say1 to the scala or port of it1 which is on an island opposite to the site of the ancient ,clazomen1 and walked from there to the town1 spent the night there1 and next day rode to ,boudron4 ,here was only a tiny cafan1 and nothing but a bench to sleep on4 ,the following days were passed entirely among the ruins of temples and magnificent buildings1 among which now only a few scattered husbandmen guide their ploughs4 ,if in ,chandler's day--#agge--the ,temple of ,bacchus was anything like what he describes1 it must have been a good deal knocked about since1 for it is very different now4 ,the country we passed through generally is exceedingly fertile1 and1 in consequence of the great demand for produce in and about ,smyrna1 very prosperous4 ,when ,i got back to ,smyrna ,i was fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of ,captain ,f4 ,beaufort1 ,r4,n41#cg of ,h4,m4 frigate ,frederiksteen4 ,he is an accomplished antiquarian1 a taste he has been able to cultivate in these countries1 as he has been employed for some time in charting the coasts hereabouts4 ,i have suffered not a little from the changeableness of my companions3 ,mr4 ,north first1 in giving up the whole voyage to ,egypt when we were halfway there1 because of the weather2 then ,douglas1 in suddenly at ,scio taking it into his head to go home to ,england because he was disappointed of the voyage to ,egypt2 and now1 finally1 ,foster has fallen in love and refuses to make with me the tour of the ,seven ,churches1 as he promised1 because he cannot tear himself away from his lady love4 ,the difficulty mentioned before about the raiding pasha has been settled4 ,the moslem of this place have conciliated him with a gift of #bj1jjj piastres1 and he is to retire to his own pashalik of ,kauna4 ,so ,i only await my horses and janissary to set off alone4 ,march #ast4--,i started in a boat for the scala of ,menimen1 where the horses were waiting for me to take me to ,menimen on the ,hermus4 ,as my janissary got drunk overnight1 ,i had to wait next morning till seven before ,i could start1 and in consequence did not get so far as ,i intended1 and had to sleep in a small cafan1 on the site1 as ,i take it1 of the ancient ,cum4 ,we slept six in a small space1 the divan1 with a large fire1 while the three or four horses were in the space beyond4 ,greeks steal when they get a chance1 but ,turks as a rule may be trusted2 and though ,dimitri and ,i were so tired that we left my arms1 silver cup and spoons1 c1 lying about all night1 nobody touched them4 ,in the morning ,i walked over the site of ,cum4 ,there were large remains of the wall nine or ten feet thick1 and ,i found the torso of a white marble statue five feet six inches long1 of a very beautiful style4 ,the head1 arms1 and legs had been broken off by the aga of the place because he thought he should find gold inside4 ,it is not far from here to ,pergamo1 but it took us unusually long because the water was out in all the low ground1 and one had to keep to the causeways4 ,these are made mostly of stones taken from ruined cities1 in which one saw bits of architraves1 friezes1 and so on4 ,getting off the causeway in one place1 ,i was very nearly bogged4 ,at ,pergamo ,i lodged in the khan4 ,the first thing ,i did was to walk up to the castle4 ,it is in three stages1 with remains of fortification of all ages1 from the earliest to the ,genoese1 but the ,roman are the most important4 ,on the second stage are two towers and a great wall built of ,roman-,greek fragments of white marble4 ,above are two larger towers with a gate and strong wall full of fragments4 ,on the south-west side a gap or dell in the hill is filled up with arches fifty feet high by twenty wide1 and above them a range of smaller ones1 the whole forming a solid foundation for an immense temple#ch of white marble in the best ,roman-,greek style4 ,the whole work is prodigious and very noble4 ,there are still considerable remains of the temple1 but they are rapidly disappearing1 for the ,turks cut them up into tombstones4 ,the ancient town seems to have been built on the hill4 ,everywhere on the sides of it are immense foundations4 ,the amphitheatre is an extraordinary building4 ,it stands in a narrow valley astride of a river4 ,the two sides of the valley make the two ends of the oval1 and the middle stands upon arches under which the river runs4 ,i was detained at ,pergamo two days by the weather4 ,it poured all the first day1 and the second the water was out and the river too high for me to get across4 ,i went to the baths to see the vase for which ,canning offered #aj1jjj piastres1 and bought there a beautiful stone for #dj piastres1 and some bronze coins4 ,i took a guide to show me the way across the river1 for the water was out all over the valley1 and even on the causeway it was over our horses' knees1 and to get off it would have been dangerous4 ,on the way we met the son of a neighbouring aga with a party of fifty armed followers4 ,we took them at a distance for a company of derrys1 or mountain robbers4 ,but when they came near us we saw they were much too smart4 ,the young man was merely going to the ,aga of ,pergamo with the compliments of his father on the recovery of his health4 ,seeing me and my suite dressed la ,turque1 he sent in passing a man with his compliments to me to wish me a happy journey4 ,the pleasant taste left by this graceful courtesy was wiped out by the next incident1 which was far from agreeable4 ,we came upon a camel-driver whose camels had got bogged in the swamp and could not be made to move backwards or forwards4 ,impatience at his trouble had put the man so beside himself that as we passed on he insulted our party4 ,i did not understand a word he said1 or the cause of offence1 but our janissary was in a moment as furious as he4 ,both drew their pistols1 and ,i had the greatest difficulty in containing my man4 ,one or other would have been killed for no reason that ,i could comprehend4 ,i managed to drag my man away1 and we went on to ,knifnich2 after which our horses1 wearied with their wetting and plodding through the heavy mire1 could go no further1 and we halted for the night4 ,i had a letter to a resident ,armenian merchant who received me with genuine hospitality2 he introduced me to a relation of his1 and the two vied in their honest gallantry4 ,each insisted on entertaining me4 ,finally my friend gave a party in my honour2 and in the evening1 the ,turkish part of the company having departed1 the women1 contrary to the usual ,armenian custom1 appeared4 ,the music which had been sent for began to play the ,greek circle1 the ,romaika1 and we all danced it together4 ,at the end ,i did what ,i had understood before was the height of gallantry in these countries3 on passing the musicians1 dancing with my fair one1 ,i clapped a dollar into the hand of the musician to express my enjoyment4 ,better still1 is with a bit of wax to stick your sequin on his forehead1 but ,i had no wax even if ,i had wished to try it4 ,after eating and dancing to our heart's content1 beds were spread1 and in courtesy the landlord remained in the room till ,i was undressed4 ,nothing1 in fact1 could be more cordial than their treatment of me4 ,the trade of ,knifnich is in raw cotton4 ,next day ,i got as far as ,sumeh4 ,the roads were so heavy that our baggage horse fell and ,i thought we should never get him up again4 ,this comes of having started too early in the year4 ,close to ,sumeh1 in a dell1 is the picturesque village of ,tarcala1 with an ancient castle above it4 ,a friend1 ,constantine ,stephano1 took me to call on a ,greek family there4 ,i cannot go into details2 suffice it to say ,i found the people so really barbarous that ,i could not bear it and came out4 ,indeed1 in simple savagery it would be impossible to surpass the natives of this country4 ,in the khan ,i found a number of ,romaic ,greeks4 ,it was the last day of carnival and they were singing ,moriote songs1 making a noise and behaving themselves generally in a way they would not venture to do in ,greece proper4 ,the fact is1 that ,karasman ,oglu1 who governs all this part of the country from ,pergamo north to ,samos in the south and inland to ,sart and ,magnesia1 is an extraordinarily good administrator for a ,turk4 ,he sees that the ,greeks form the most industrious and the richest part of the population1 and that it is to his interest to protect them4 ,trade is flourishing1 and ,greeks from other parts1 such as those from the ,morea who were so noisy in the khan1 come and settle under him4 ,i am bound to say that here1 and everywhere else where they come into power1 they are insolent and insufferably vain4 ,on the other hand1 the ,turks hereabouts are a mild and hospitable but apparently a dull race4 ,they are even more severely taxed than the ,greeks4 ,for instance1 it was they who had to pay to buy off the raiding pasha ,i spoke of1 and in places remote from the seat of government they suffer great oppression from the hands of their petty governors4 ,indeed at times they have openly expressed to me their desire that the ,french or the ,english would take possession of their empire1 for that they would be better off in the hands of anybody than in those of their own countrymen4 ,and nothing would be easier than to take possession of it4 ,in all my tour ,i saw only one fortress1 and that a small one1 quite incapable of resisting a regular force4 ,moreover1 it is not a cramped country like the ,morea1 but perfectly open2 and after you leave the coast1 which is really populous and well cultivated1 it is a desert4 ,in nine hours' journey from ,akhissar to ,sart1 ,i came across only one village and a few ,turcomans4 ,these ,turcomans are a nomadic people4 ,they live in tents1 of which you find perhaps twenty together1 with their herds of cattle1 horses1 and camels around them1 and wander about following the pasture4 ,they consider themselves just as much part of the inhabitants as the settled population1 and are well armed and dressed4 ,as a rule1 in these parts at any rate1 they are inoffensive1 but further up the country ,i am told they are organised into larger bands1 call themselves dervishes or desperadoes1 and if travellers do not keep together in large caravans1 attack1 rob1 and even sell them for slaves4 ,i was even given the sort of price ,i might be expected to fetch in that capacity1 viz4 from ten to twenty pounds4 ,from ,sumeh to ,kerikahatch1 and thence over a low watershed into the valley of the ,hermus and to ,akhissar1 where there is nothing worth seeing4 ,i spent the evening with ,greek and ,armenian merchants1 very rough company4 ,went on towards ,sardis4 ,at a village on a small branch of the ,hermus we came upon a large party of ,turcoman women1 who had come down from the mountains to wash4 ,they made no attempt to avoid observation as the ,turkish women do1 and some of them were exceedingly beautiful4 ,they had with them three men as guard1 who showed no jealousy of us and very civilly told us our way4 ,in the afternoon we arrived at the ,hermus1 and the view of the valley ,i shall never forget4 ,it was a glorious country up the river1 but the cultivation and the rich population were behind us1 and in front was a continued desert4 ,a ferry-boat running on a rope set us over the river1 and an hour later we reached ,achmet ,li1 a miserable village of mud cottages1 and prepared to pass the night in the wretched cafan4 ,happily1 when it got about that we were not ,turks1 the widow of a ,greek papa gladly received us and lodged me well4 ,the raiding pasha aforesaid had passed through and burned the aga's house1 but done no other harm beyond eating up all the fowls in the place2 there was not one to be got for love or money for my supper4 ,next day we got early to ,sart4 ,the neighbourhood affords the most lovely views imaginable of distant hills4 ,the site itself is peculiar4 ,the hills are wholly of fat earth1 no rock seen at all1 and the weather has worn them into the most fantastic forms4 ,amidst them the castle1 standing at the foot of ,bousdagh1 is astonishingly picturesque4 ,but the whole is a very picture of desolation4 ,where the ancient ,sardis stood are now ten or twelve miserable huts4 ,far off across the glorious landscape ,i could distinguish one solitary wretched village1 and here and there a ,turcoman's tent4 ,a veritable desert1 where the soil is rich as anyone could imagine4 ,besides the fine situation there is only one other thing to notice1 viz4 the ,ionic temple4 ,i spent my first day in examining it and making a drawing of it4 ,only three of the five columns still standing in ,chandler's time remain erect2 the other two were blown up three years ago by a ,greek who thought he might find gold in them4 ,the whole temple is buried many feet deep4 ,as ,i wished very much to see the base of the column1 ,i got a ,cretan--whom ,i found here professedly buying tobacco1 but ,i suspect a fugitive from his home for some murder--to dig for me4 ,i had to give it up after we had got down ten feet without reaching it4 ,one ought to be here for a month1 and then1 as the earth is very soft1 one could do the thing thoroughly4 ,nobody would interfere4 ,i spent the evening with the ,turcomans in a tent1 sitting cross-legged on a mat1 smoking4 ,they had a bold free manner and a savage air1 but they were not uncivil to me4 ,my janissary got into a dispute with one because he had taken his place4 ,he ordered him out1 and the man would not go4 ,as he and all his companions were well armed1 a fight would not have been pleasant1 and when the dispute quieted down ,i was not sorry4 ,the ruins of the comparatively modern town1 especially those of a large church1 seem to consist entirely of fragments of ancient temples1 some of the bits being very fine4 ,the castle has no remains of earlier date than that of the ,lower ,empire4 ,the more ancient fortress may have been swept away by the torrents1 which tear the soil into such strange forms1 and the whole site be changed4 ,at any rate ,i could not find a scrap of ancient wall anywhere1 and the later ones are rapidly being undermined1 and totter on the edge of the precipice4 ,next day we rode eastwards along the side of ,bousdagh 7,tmolus74 ,in five hours we passed only two small villages and a number of ,turcoman tents1 but we met many caravans1 the camels whimsically decked with feathers and shells1 and the largest male with festoons of bells as well4 ,i was told that the ,turks were very fond of witnessing camel-fights1 and that those which ,i saw most handsomely dressed out were the champions at that sport4 ,the houses hereabouts are all built of mud1 and so full of mice that ,i could not sleep in the night and was in consequence late in starting4 ,we continued along the great valley and came by midday to ,allah ,sheri 7,philadelphia71 the most forlorn city ever ,i saw4 ,the squalid mud houses cover several small hills and contain a population of about a thousand families1 mostly ,turks4 ,there are twenty-four churches1 of which only five are in use1 while the rest are kept sacred by occasional services4 ,in the shape of antiquities there is nothing to be seen4 ,the chief curiosity is the warm mineral spring1 which smells like addled eggs and has a taste of ink4 ,the people about use it a good deal for scorbutic complaints4 ,some travellers have spoken of having been shown a wall of bones here4 ,i saw nothing of the sort4 ,two hours' travelling next day brought us at last to the end of the immense plain of the ,hermus1 and we began to get among the mountains1 going up the east side of a steep romantic dell1 the west side of which was wonderfully rugged and wild4 ,beyond were mountains covered with snow3 beneath us an immeasurable giddy depth4 ,except a few sheep1 we saw no living thing for hours together4 ,once ,i heard some wild duck by the torrent below4 ,at the end of six hours we reached ,derwent1 a village of1 say1 two hundred houses4 ,a wretched lodging and1 as there was no fowl to be got--and that is what one depends entirely upon--no supper2 and ,i had to be content with smoke1 coffee1 and ,homer4 ,in the evening came1 as usual1 a number of ,turks to see the stranger4 ,they enter1 they salute with a ',salaam aleikum1' and sit down perhaps for hours4 ,their conversation generally turns upon the stranger1 with conjectures upon his object in coming4 ,later at night came in the son of our host4 ,he had been searching for a strayed ox1 and was afraid that the wolves had got it4 ,he examined my firearms for a long while1 and admired them very much4 ,the ,turks of this part of the country are large1 handsome1 very slow in their speech1 and stupid and ignorant4 ,starting next morning1 we began by following the course of a river till we got on to a high level plain surrounded by formless hills--an ugly country4 ,we met a few ,turcomans1 and once ,i saw some ploughing4 ,at the end of seven hours' riding we reached the edge of the valley of the ,meander and looked over a glorious view2 then downwards through ,bulladan1 a village of about five hundred houses and a number of mosques1 to a village the name of which ,i never learnt1 where we slept4 ,as one expects nothing of one's host but shelter1 it was an unusual hospitality in ours to give us some of his bread4 ,it was a strange compound1 such as ,i had never seen before4 ,to make it1 the dough is mixed very thin and poured on a heated copper4 ,the result looks like rags of coarse cloth and tastes like bad crumpets4 ,we slept in a barn with the horses4 ,next day we descended into the plain of the ,meander and crossed the river by a bridge of four or five arches1 the parapet of which is made of the steps of a theatre4 ,just there was a man administering a singular remedy to a mule which had fallen sick in the road4 ,he had tied all four legs together and thrown him down4 ,then he had cut the throat of a sheep1 and holding the mule's mouth open1 let the sheep's blood flow into it4 ,i was assured it was an excellent medicine4 ,from the bridge onwards we crossed a flat till we reached the ridge1 at the foot of which is ,hierapolis4 ,it had cost me certainly a whole day more than was necessary to get here1 because ,tabouk ,kalise 7the castle of the cemetery71 its proper name1 was spelt in ,chandler1 ,pambouk 7cotton72 and when ,i inquired for ,pambouk ,kalise no one could make out what ,i meant1 so that practically ,i lost my way until ,i got into the valley of the ,meander4 ,once there1 ,hierapolis is a conspicuous object from a great distance on account of the remarkable whiteness of the rock on which it stands4 ,this is due to a petrification deposited by the river1 which rises1 a full stream1 in the city and flows over the front of the cliff4 ,it makes a fine cascade1 and the spray of it1 carried by the wind1 spreads a white coating like ice over everything it reaches4 ,as it gradually forms1 it takes rounded shapes overlapping each other1 something like conventional clouds4 ,the ruins of the ancient city stand on the top above the cliff and half buried in a sea of this singular deposit4 ,the vast colonnades present the most extraordinary appearance4 ,the most magnificent are perhaps the ruins of the gymnasium1 and the best preserved the theatre1 which is all perfect except the proscenium2 but perhaps what astonished me most was to find1 on going out of one of the gates1 a number of tombs of various forms and sizes as complete as on the day they were built1 two thousand years ago4 ,the style of them is very large and magnificent4 ,many of the sarcophagi are eight or nine feet long by three or four wide1 and the rest in proportion4 ,all bear inscriptions1 but the rough quality of the stone prevented my reading them4 ,under the sarcophagus1 and forming part of the monument1 is generally a stone bench for the friends of the deceased to sit upon and meditate4 ,there are some beautiful bas-reliefs in high preservation lying exposed in the theatre4 ,altogether1 for preservation there can be nothing but ,pompeii to compare to this place4 ,i did not forget to inquire for the remarkable cave in which no animal can live1 which ,chandler tried to find4 ,my guide led me to one near the spring and told me that on certain days birds flying over it fall down1 overcome by the fumes4 ,there1 sure enough1 ,i did find four small birds with the bones of various other animals4 ,if travellers had been frequent here ,i could have supposed that someone had put the birds there for sightseers to wonder at2 but according to the old aga ,i am the first traveller here since ,chandler's time in #agfe1 and it seemed impossible that it should have been done on such short notice merely to make a fool of me4 ,when evening came on1 ,i walked down again to ,yemkeni where the janissary and horses were4 ,the aga had prepared a meal for me1 and ate it with me1 sometimes tearing bits of meat off and throwing them into my plate4 ,as usual1 all the ,turks came in1 in the evening1 to stare4 ,all next day it blew and poured1 but ,i went up to the ruins attended by the aga's man1 and worked hard all day long4 ,i had bought a live fowl to try ,strabo's experiment of putting him into the cave2 but whether it was not really the right cave1 or whether the violent wind and rain prevented the gas having effect1 at any rate the fowl was none the worse after being exposed to it for half an hour1 and we ate him with a good appetite in the evening4 ,over his bones the aga grew talkative1 and told me of the real cave which was in the mountain1 one hour distant4 ,he said that inside the cave is a bridge1 and beyond that a chamber in which is a treasure guarded by a black man4 ,he added that he who should get the better of that black man had need have studied and learnt much4 ,many and many an adventurer1 after the treasure1 had died horribly in the cavern4 ,and so on1 with all the cock-and-bull stories universal among the ,turks4 ,but when ,i asked him to give me a guide to take me to the cave1 he put every sort of difficulty into the way4 ,i should need ladders1 and there were none--horses1 and there were none4 ,in short it was quite clear he meant to prevent my going1 so ,i gave it up4 ,i did so the more willingly because ,i already felt exceedingly uncomfortable4 ,the people around me were utter savages1 and the country perfectly lawless4 ,south of the river1 in the direction of ,denisli or ,laodicea1 it was worse2 and besides brigands1 which were said to abound between ,denisli and ,aidin and would oblige my taking an expensive escort1 the agas themselves had a very bad reputation for extortion4 ,moreover1 my janissary was anxious1 because in coming to ,hierapolis we were already outside the limits to which my travelling firman referred1 and he wished to get back within them4 ,so1 all things considered1 ,i decided to give up seeing ,laodicea 7,i could make out the situation of it at a very great distance7 and passed on to avoid the desert country and dangerous neighbourhood4 ,,footnotes3 #cg ,later ,sir ,francis ,beaufort1 chief hydrographer to the ,navy4 #ch ,since excavated at the cost of the ,prussian ,government4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,back ,,into ,,civilisation--,,nasli ,,bazar--,,nysa--,,guzul--,,hissar 7,,magnesia7--,,the ,,plague--,,aisaluck 7,,ephesus7--,,scala ,,nuova--,a ,,storm--,,samos--,,priene--,,canna-- ,,geronta--,,knidos--,,rhodes--,,mr4 ,,north ,,again--,,sails ,,for ,,patara--,,castel ,,rosso--,,cacava--,,myra--,,the ,,shrine ,,of ,,st4 ,,nicolas--,,troubles ,,with ,,natives--,a ,,water ,,snake--,,finica--,,carosi--,,olympus-- ,,volcanic ,,fire--,,phaselis--,,falls ,,in ,,with ,,the ,,frederiksteen4 ,two days' riding down the river brought us to ,nasli ,bazar1 which is within the government of ,karasman ,oglu1 and the fact was at once perceptible4 ,greeks were numerous and impudent1 trade flourishing1 and the bazaar full of all kinds of merchants4 ,it is the great mart for the interior4 ,i had to pass the night in a wretched khan4 ,in the chamber adjoining mine was a slave merchant with two young negresses1 one of whom had a child for sale1 and also a fine young negro4 ,i followed the valley of the ,meander to ,sultan ,hissar4 ,on the way ,i went up a steep ascent to see the ruins of ,nysa4 ,they stand on an elevated plain over the river1 and command a grand view and good air above the malarious bed of the ,meander and its bordering marshes4 ,there is first of all a large agora1 with traces of temples in or around it4 ,further on1 in the side of the mountain1 is a very considerable theatre1 with the remains of the proscenium and apartments for actors c4 on all sides4 ,seated in the theatre one had a glorious view of the senate house and prison1 with the amphitheatre beyond1 and the bridge which spans a gully in one magnificent arch4 ,all these buildings are in a grandiose style1 very impressive1 and made all the more so by their absolute solitude4 ,in ,nysa was but one man1 a shepherd1 who had taken up his abode in one of the arches of the theatre4 ,after a stay there of two hours we went on down the valley4 ,we had now quite left the desert behind us and come into civilisation1 cultivation1 and orderly government4 ,every two or three miles we passed a cafan and a guard1 with an air of order and discipline4 ,my janissary was full of admiration for ,karasman ,oglu1 and related to me stories illustrating his character4 ,i recollect two4 ,a ,greek merchant going to ,akhissar was robbed by four ,turks of #hjj sequins4 ,the poor man made his complaint to ,karasman ,oglu1 who at once gave him the money1 as recognising his responsibility for order1 and that the merchant might not stand out of his money while it was being recovered4 ,then he despatched his police1 who in a few days brought in the four ,turks1 and they were then and there hanged4 ,the ,turks resent his protection of the ,greeks and ,christians1 and call it partiality4 ,hearing of this1 ,karasman called together the chief ,turks of ,magnesia1 and when he had given them coffee1 he told them that he had summoned them as he wished to raise a sum of #cj1jjj piastres for government purposes1 and they should be repaid in a few months with the interest due4 ,the proposition being received with dead silence1 he sent for four poor ,greek primates of some small villages in the neighbourhood1 and made them the same proposal in the presence of the ,turks4 ,they at once assented1 and the money was brought in an hour4 ',now1' said he1 'you see why ,i prefer the ,greeks4 ,the first of you who complains again shall lose his head4' ,when we got in the evening to ,guzul ,hissar ,i found the reports ,i had picked up on the road exaggerated in two main particulars4 ,i had been told that the plague was raging in the town1 and that there were ,english corn-merchants to whom ,i could apply for harbourage4 ,there was a good deal of plague1 no doubt1 in the town1 which is extensive1 but hardly enough to deter one from entering it2 while the nearest thing to an ,english merchant was a ,genoese merchant living in the house of a ,sardinian doctor who enjoyed ,english protection4 ,they made room for me1 and were very kind and hospitable2 and it was a comfort to be in a ,frank house1 but outside it was rather nervous work4 ,a house close to our lodging was infected by the plague1 and as ,i was going down the street a ,greek warned me to make room for him4 ',i have nothing the matter with me1' said he1 'but a few days ago my brother died of the plague4' ,need ,i say that ,i complied at once4 ,the panic that grows in a plague-stricken city1 and which one cannot help imbibing1 has a strange effect on characters4 ,the woman of the neighbouring house1 which1 as ,i said1 was impestata1 was seen going about out of doors by my host the doctor1 and he was beside himself at the sight4 ,the importance of ,guzul ,hissar as a place of commerce arises from its standing on the track of the corn trade between the interior and ,scala ,nuova4 ,i came upon caravans of one hundred to one hundred and fifty camels1 bringing corn from ,csarea4 ,some bring it from even as far as the borders of ,persia4 ,once here1 its value is doubled or trebled2 but the greed of the agas and the roguery of the ,greek merchants prevent much of the profit going to the growers4 ,signor ,mora told me that the great trouble he found was the system of constant douceurs and bribery4 ,it makes it impossible for a merchant to make his calculations4 ,i walked up to see the few remains of the city of ,magnesia4 ,like all ,greek cities1 it stood above the plain4 ,there is a theatre just discernible1 a stadium below it1 and a few remnants of a gymnasium4 ,one night in ,guzul ,hissar was enough for me1 and next day ,i started for ,scala ,nuova2 and leaving the valley of the ,meander on the left1 kept by the mountain to the right1 and came late to ,aisaluck1 the ancient ,ephesus4 ,here ,i dismissed my janissary and horses1 and1 relieved of my expensive suite1 spent a blissful1 tranquil day alone4 ,the castle is a vile ,turkish fort4 ,the great mosque1 in which are some grand columns of granite1 is fine1 and1 like the others--for there are many in the place--thoroughly well executed in the true ,oriental taste4 ,the degraded modern ,turk is incapable of producing anything half so good4 ,the remains of ,ephesus are very trifling1 and what there are1 are in a very poor style4 ,i did not1 any more than other travellers1 find out the ,temple of ,diana1#ci though of course ,i have my own opinion as to the site4 ,aisaluck is now an almost deserted town4 ,it has only about fifteen inhabited houses1 and the mosques and forts are in ruinous condition1 but their number and splendour show that it must once have been an important ,turkish city4 ,i called on the aga1 and by way of a present gave him a little gunpowder1 with which he was delighted4 ,my lodging was in a miserable little cafan1 anything but a palace of luxury4 ,the fleas within1 added to the jackals howling without1 prevented my getting any rest4 ,but it was not much worse than my other lodgings on this tour4 ,luxuries have been few4 ,all ,i can say is ,i have learnt not to miss them4 ,in my ,turkish dress ,i pass without observation or inconvenience4 ,in the evening1 after eating my meal1 ,i smoke my pipe with the other ,turks1 go to sleep and get up early4 ,i rode from ,aisaluck to ,scala ,nuova1 which is only four hours off1 and from thence ,i took a passage for ,samos on a ,maltese brig of twelve hands and six guns and set sail the following morning 7,march #beth72 but when we had made half the passage1 which is by rights only about two hours1 we met a furious wind which obliged us to put back4 ,i went ashore again1 and as the wind rose to the force of a hurricane ,i watched out of my window no less than eighteen boats and vessels of various sizes blown ashore and wrecked under my very eyes4 ,it was a scene of incredible destruction4 ,the shore was strewn with wreckage and cargoes which had been thrown overboard--oranges1 corn1 barrels of all sorts of goods--while the sailors1 ruined1 although thankful to have escaped with their lives1 sat round fires in some sheds by the port1 the pictures of dejection4 ,the wind detained me till the #bhth1 when ,i crossed over in a boat to ,bathi in ,samos4 ,here ,i had to wait first for horses1 and then on account of the bad weather4 ,i had to stay indoors1 and indoors in a ,greek house means anything but privacy4 ,no matter where you sit1 you hear everything that goes on in it4 ,application of any kind is out of the question4 ,in this case1 the consular court being at the other end of the house1 ,i had to hear the cases proceeding in it4 ,one in especial went on in detached chapters all the time ,i was there4 ,a ,zantiote had deserted his wife and children eighteen years ago in ,mykoni4 ,he had since lived and been married in ,cyprus1 while the deserted wife went to ,smyrna and maintained herself and the children by hard work4 ,she had done what she could to find her husband1 in vain1 till just as ,i arrived she discovered him in ,samos4 ,she haled him before the consul and demanded that he1 being rich1 should support her4 ,not till the whole assembly had joined the bench in calling him every name they could invent would he consent1 but finally he signed an agreement to live with his wife in ,samos and support the daughter4 ,but this was but the beginning4 ,every day we had visits from both parties to complain that the conditions were not adhered to3 he to say that the agreement to live with them did not involve supporting them2 they to say they must be supported1 and meanwhile1 as they were half starved1 to take an opportunity of satisfying their appetites at the consulate4 ,i made acquaintance of a pleasant ,russian1 ,monsieur ,marschall1 and with him crossed the island to see the antiquities--first of the ancient city and then of the ,temple of ,juno1 lying three-quarters of an hour to the eastward of it4 ,there is only one column of it remaining1 but that one very finely cut and of beautiful marble4 ,a few years ago1 ,i understand1 there were still many standing2 but some were blown up for the sake of the metal rivets1 and others knocked over by the ,turkish men of war1 who1 as they were very white1 used them as a target for gunnery practice4 ,we returned to the village of ,samos for the night1 and lodged with the bishop1 who was more hospitable than ,greeks generally are4 ,he was a man of some ingenuity and amusing1 but very ignorant and superstitious4 ,we went by ,bathi to ,geronta and across the ,bogas to ,changlu on the mainland--rode to ,kelibesh over the top of range of hills commanding the valley of the ,meander--and the lake of ,myus--and on to ,sansun ,kalesi 7,priene71 which ,i was very glad to see4 ,it is an exceedingly fine site4 ,unfortunately it rained and blew so violently that ,i could not do much2 but if one could stay and dig in the temple1 ,i dare say one might find a treasure of statues1 for it remains exactly as it fell4 ,two days after1 we set out1 riding along the foot of ,mount ,titanus1 in frequent danger of being bogged in the low new-made ground of the ,meander1 which near the sea is covered with sedge and rushes inhabited by numberless waterfowl4 ,the scenery was often very fine4 ,we reached the corn warehouses at ,canna after midday1 and found there my ,sardinian corn-merchant friend from ,guzul ,hissar4 ,he was trying to make up a cargo1 and at the moment was full of the wrongs suffered by merchants in this country4 ,a caravan of fifteen camels he was expecting had been stopped by an aga1 the corn they carried unloaded and left by the road1 while the camels were sent away to carry cotton into the interior4 ,here we hired a boat2 but1 hearing firing in the ,bogas1 which we could only attribute to a pirate1 we were not without some qualms at starting4 ,with this in our heads1 when we saw a large caique making directly towards us1 we were naturally enough alarmed and made for the mouth of the ,meander1 and there remained till the bark came up and proved itself to be only a fishing caique4 ,setting forward again with a very strong wind1 we reached the port of ,geronta after dark4 ,the boatman mistook the entrance and very nearly ran us on to a rock some distance from the shore1 upon which he got into a fright and lost all presence of mind4 ,the wind1 as ,i said1 being very high1 the position was so serious that ,marschall and ,i took the management of the bark1 and giving the man a cuff sent him forward to look out for the port4 ,in this fashion we found it and got in4 ,even then we were not well off1 for the place was perfectly solitary1 and we had no mind to remain all night in the boat4 ,it grew extremely dark1 and it was an hour and a half before we could find the village4 ,on the way to it1 we passed the massive remains of the ,temple of ,apollo ,didymus1 and as they loomed through the darkness they looked very grand--grander than ,i thought them next morning by daylight4 ,the village of ,geronta is only about thirty years old and is inhabited entirely by ,albanian and ,greek immigrants who seem fairly prosperous4 ,the pasha1 ,elis ,oglu1 like his neighbour ,karasman ,oglu1 is a great patron of ,greeks4 ,we set sail at night1 but had to put back1 after a hard night1 to a port close to ,geronta and wait there three days till the weather improved4 ,when at last we got away1 in five hours we were off ,cape ,ciron1 which ends in a lofty hill by which is ,knidos4 ,at my request the captain went into the port1 and very glad ,i was to see the place2 the situation is so curious3 but ,i found no inscription or antiquities of any kind4 ,i slept in the boat1 and we started at midnight4 ,the wind was furious2 and as the bark laboured and strained in the waves1 ,dimitri groaned with fear4 ,it was indeed far from pleasant2 but as the day came on the wind went down1 till we were absolutely becalmed off the little island of ,symi1 and did not get into ,rhodes till afternoon4 ,i was preparing to go to visit the consul1 and had walked a few yards in that direction when ,i saw another boat come into port1 and in it1 to my surprise1 who but ,mr4 ,north4 ,he was as astonished as myself1 and as pleased4 ,we went together to the consul's4 ,there we had long conversation on the subject of the island1 its inhabitants1 products1 c4 ,the present governor of ,rhodes is ,hassan ,bey1 slave of a previous governor--a man of great simplicity of life4 ,i found him sitting in the passage of his palace without attendants or pomp4 ,although he is about seventy years old and deaf1 he received as a present1 by the same boat as ,mr4 ,north came in1 a female slave4 ,he builds ships here for ,government1 and has one1 a frigate1 for his own behoof1 which he uses himself for piratical purposes while with it he clears the neighbouring seas of all other pirates4 ,two days after1 ,i left ,rhodes and sailed eastwards with a light breeze1 till in the evening we were becalmed off the ,seven ,capes4 ,in the morning ,i was awakened by strange voices on board4 ,we had been boarded by ,hydriotes inquiring for corn4 ,their ship had been lying off the coast for some days1 boarding every boat that passed for corn4 ,she was a large ship with a crew of sixty men1 who seemed to spend all their time in merrily dancing and fiddling4 ,we rowed into the port1 which is a fine harbour1 and when ,i had landed ,i found a boy to undertake to guide us to ,patara4 ,it took two hours to walk there1 keeping all the way by the side of an aqueduct4 ,we met a few savage-looking ,turks armed1 and a boy or two playing on wild simple reeds4 ,the whole country was very wild and desolate1 and the road a mere track4 ,the ruins are considerable1 and1 although none of them belong to the finest time1 very interesting4 ,they have an inexpressibly forlorn appearance1 standing as they do half buried in the sand4 ,the once extensive port is entirely silted up4 ,the theatre is half filled up4 ,i found in it an inscription1 from which ,i gathered that the auditorium is of later date than the proscenium4 ,near the head of the port are two large mausolea1 at least ,i suppose that is what they are2 and besides these there are the remains of fortifications of the ,lower ,empire and of several churches4 ,i could not get over to examine the buildings on the opposite side of the port4 ,we started for ,castel ,rosso1 but were becalmed4 ,the boys played and danced1 and we did not get in till the evening4 ,the port1 a poor one1 is defended by a castle which is red1 whence the name4 ,the few savages we found on the beach received us with great suspicion1 with arms in their hands1 but sold us some provisions4 ,in the morning ,i landed and looked about4 ,inside the walls there are many ruins of houses1 all of the ,lower ,empire1 while the walls themselves are of much earlier date in cyclopean masonry4 ,outside the old walls and in the modern town there are several ancient tombs that have been respected and are in good preservation4 ,the ground is incredibly rugged and stony1 almost as bad as ,maina4 ,we sailed off at midday1 and got to the small port of ,cacava in the evening4 ,there1 among the modern houses1 are a number of tombs1 all of them respected and well preserved4 ,as the cross is on most of them1 the town must have flourished during the ,lower ,empire4 ,i found and copied various inscriptions1 some of them in a character ,i have not seen before4 ,in the evening we crossed to ,myra1 and there ,i enjoyed a good bathe4 ,then when night had come on1 we worked the oars against wind till we reached a port at the east end of ,karadah1 and when it was morning crossed to visit the shrine of ,st4 ,nicolas4 ,the sea was so high we had to leave the caique and walk thither4 ,st4 ,nicolas is a favourite saint of the ,greeks1 and his shrine is greatly revered4 ,our captain and crew were all dressed in their very best to make their cross1 and had brought with them a bottle of oil as an offering4 ,the road was wretched1 and what made it worse was that in wading across a river which was over my knees ,i so wetted my shalvar that they were heavy to walk in4 ,at the mouth of the river ,zanthus we found many tombs1 but none of which ,i could read the inscription4 ,the holy place consists of half of a ruined church of the ,lower ,empire1 and by the side of it a small chapel in which is the tomb4 ,the entrance to it is so low that we were obliged to go down on our hands and knees to get in4 ,the ,greeks knelt down1 bowed their foreheads to the earth1 made crosses and said prayers2 then1 putting some parahs on a tray1 took some small candles from a bundle beside it1 and stuck them round the tomb4 ,the ceremony being over1 we took some earth from near the tomb to keep as a relic1 and fell into conversation with the papa of the shrine1 ,nicola by name1 native of ,salonica4 ,he told us that early in life in a severe illness he had vowed service to ,st4 ,nicolas for the rest of his life if he recovered3 that1 being restored to health1 he had come here in fulfilment of his vow1 but that he led but a miserable life1 in constant apprehension of the ,turks1 who are very violent and fanatical hereabouts4 ,i went on with ,dimitri and the captain to see some remains of which he told me1 at no great distance1 but the other ,greeks were afraid to accompany me or even to show me the way4 ,however1 ,i found the ruins--a theatre in astonishing preservation1 and some highly interesting tombs1 and was quietly taking measurements of them when several ,turks appeared4 ,they seemed highly to disapprove of our operations4 ,while examining some statues ,i heard one of them exclaim3 ',if the infidels are attracted here by these blasphemous figures the temptation shall soon cease1 for when that dog is gone ,i will destroy them4' ,then some of them went away and presently came back with a larger party4 ,while ,i was above in the upper part of the building1 they suddenly seized the arms of ,dimitri and the captain1 and ordered us to follow them to the aga1 who lived at a distance of no less than six hours off4 ,at this ,i remonstrated1 saying that ,i was an ,englishman1 a friend2 but they answered that ,i lied1 that we were giaour ,russians1 and were plotting to take possession of the place4 ,they wanted to examine our things1 but this ,i resisted4 ,my firman unfortunately was left behind in the boat1 and matters began to look ugly4 ,the least encouragement from the elder members would have led the crowd of ruffians to take strong measures4 ,i could perceive that1 but ,i saw no exit from our dilemma4 ,there was1 fortunately1 still one elder of the village to be consulted1 and he was ill at home4 ,the chief of our captors went off to consult him1 and a quarter of an hour later returned a different man1 his rage assuaged1 and willing to accept the captain's assurance that ,i was an ,englishman4 ,he then returned me my arms and begged that ,i would go where ,i thought proper4 ,of course ,i was very much pleased at this dnouemeut1 but ,i kept my countenance and pretended to be still very angry1 at which the leader1 who was now afraid of me1 positively quailed for fear of my vengeance4 ,we slept the night under protection of ,st4 ,nicolas4 ,accompanied by the papas1 we took a boat on the river and rowed down to the port at the mouth1 and across the bay to the port where our bark lay4 ,while ,i was swimming1 following the boat1 ,i was not a little frightened to meet a large snake which was making for the land4 ,i got out of its way hastily and called to the boys in the caique1 who killed it as it approached the shore4 ,it was black1 with some red spots on the belly1 and measured five feet two inches in length4 ,we heaved anchor at night1 and in the morning reached the port of ,finica4 ,the town itself is three-quarters of an hour from the sea4 ,there are the remains of a theatre1 the seats all gone1 and a castle of the ,lower ,empire1 built of the said seats4 ,i found various monuments1 the inscriptions all in the same unknown character4 ,at a mill hard by1 ,i fell in with a number of merchants belonging to ,sparta1 in ,asia ,minor1 six days from here4 ,it is curious that they all talk ,turkish1 but write it in ,greek characters4 ,i found them very bigoted but civil4 ,we slept in the open air1 all in a row4 ,as ,i had promised them some fish1 they lent me a horse1 and one of them accompanied me back to the port2 but unfortunately no fish had been caught in the night1 so ,i had to make up for it with five okes of olives and a large botza of wine1 on which my friends got excessively drunk4 ,we now got on board and tried to beat out of port1 but it was not so easy4 ,it is very narrow1 and a south-east wind1 such as we had at the moment1 blows right into it4 ,once out1 we crossed the bay and got into the small port of ,carosi4 ,we had now to get round the cape4 ,all along this coast an imbat or sea breeze springs up from the south regularly at midday4 ,as we took care1 by rowing hard southwards1 to get round the point before twelve1 we caught the breeze nicely1 which carried us straight north to ,porto ,genovese by night4 ,this is a fine port1 and the rocks above it are very grand4 ,we caught and ate a fine supper of fish1 and sat cross-legged on our little deck drinking wine with an enjoyment of this adventurous1 unconventional life ,i can never forget4 ,the night was cool1 the moon shone bright upon us1 and we crowned the evening with ,moriote songs4 ,it was past midnight before we got to bed4 ,it was a short distance to the foot of ,olympus4 ,when ,i met ,captain ,f4 ,beaufort at ,smyrna1 he gave me an account of the volcanic fire which springs up out of a hole in the side of this mountain1 and ,i wished to see it4 ,it lies about an hour's walk up the hill4 ,the flame was just like that of a furnace1 and the mouth1 about five feet wide1 from which it issued1 was all calcined4 ,ten feet from it was another mouth1 from which no fire but a strong sulphurous smell issued1 and about fifty yards higher up the hill there was a spring4 ,close by there were also the remains of a temple1 showing that the spot had been held sacred in ancient times4 ,my guide told me that the fire would roast eggs well1 but not if they were stolen--indeed it would not act upon stolen things at all4 ,greeks are very superstitious1 and this is one of the favourite forms it takes with them4 ,i tried to confute him by cutting a scrap off his turban while his back was turned and showing him how it burned1 but although he saw it consumed it did not shake his belief in the least4 ,i went downhill again to the ruins4 ,they consisted mostly of ,venetian or ,genoese work1 but there was the door of a portico erected to ,germanicus1 a small theatre on the south side of the river1 and some very rough tombs of ,roman times1 among which ,i drew until nightfall4 ,next morning we had an enchanting sail to ,phaselis4 ,the breeze was slight and the dolphins played all round us1 as though they enjoyed the fair weather4 ,phaselis was once a favourite stronghold of pirates1 and is just made for it4 ,it stands on a peninsula easily defended1 and has or had--for all are now destroyed--three excellent harbours4 ,the town was defended by a strong wall1 and was provided with numbers of cisterns1 besides an aqueduct for bringing water from the mainland4 ,where the sea had undermined the cliffs1 parts of the wall and sides of cisterns had fallen away into it4 ,there were some tombs only just recently mutilated1 which ,i thought worth making drawings of4 ,in the evening we put out our net and caught some fish1 but lost part of the net1 owing to an octopus which clung to it and dragged it into its hole4 ,april #bhth4--,we weighed anchor early1 but there was no wind as yet1 and we had rowed for some hours when we became aware of a large sail coming up on a breeze4 ,as ,i scanned her ,i had little doubt she would be the ,salsette or the ,frederiksteen2 but my poor captain was very much frightened1 and when he saw her send a boat to board a small vessel before us1 he desired his sons to hide his money in the ballast4 ,it was not long1 however1 before ,i made out with my glass the red cross1 and then ,i was able to set his mind at rest4 ,when our little caique came alongside1 we must have been a shabby sight2 but ,captain ,beaufort bade me heartily welcome and gave me so cordial a shake of the hand as ,i can never forget4 ,he said he had hunted for me all along the coast1 and pressed me to take a cruise with him1 rather than go on travelling in this hazardous fashion in the caique4 ,the offer was tantalising2 but1 as ,i was not sure if ,i should feel at my ease1 ,i only promised to stay a few days to begin with4 ,extract from ,beaufort's ,karamania4--,at ,avova we had the satisfaction of meeting ,mr4 ,cockerell1 who had been induced by our report to explore the antiquities of these desolate regions4 ,he had hired a small ,greek vessel1 and had already coasted part of ,lycia4 ,those who have experienced the filth and other miseries of such a mode of conveyance1 and who know the dangers that await an unprotected ,european among these tribes of uncivilised ,mahommedans1 can alone appreciate the ardour which could lead to such an enterprise4 ,i succeeded in persuading him to remove to ,his ,majesty's ship1 in which he might pursue his researches with less hazard and with some degree of comfort4 ,the alarm felt by his crew on seeing the frigate had been excessive4 ,had she been a ,turkish man-of-war1 they were sure of being pillaged under the pretext of exacting a present2 if a ,barbary cruiser1 the youngest men would have been forcibly seized for recruits1 and the rest plundered2 and even if she had been a ,greek merchant-ship1 their security would still have been precarious2 for when one of these large ,greek polaccas meets even her own countrymen in small vessels and in unfrequented places she often compels them to assist in loading her1 or arbitrarily takes their cargoes at her own prices4 ,,footnote3 #ci ,the ,temple of ,diana was discovered by ,mr4 ,j4 ,t4 ,wood1 who carried on excavations from #ahfc to #ahgd on behalf of the ,british ,museum4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,adalia--,,satalia 7,,sid7--,,alaia--,,hostility ,,of ,,natives--,,selinty--,,cape ,,anemurium--,,visit ,,of ,a ,,pasha--,,chelindreh--,,porto ,,cavaliero--,,seleucia--,a ,,privateer--,,natives ,,hostile--,,pompeiopolis--,,tarsous--,a ,,poor ,,reception-- ,,explores ,a ,,lake--,,castle ,,of ,,ayas--,,captain ,,beaufort ,,wounded ,,by ,,natives--,,sails ,,for ,,malta4 ,on the #ast of ,may we reached ,adalia 7or ,satalia74 ,it stands on a plain which breaks abruptly into the sea and looks very rich and ,oriental from a distance4 ,considering the way ,captain ,beaufort had given protection to certain fugitive rebels last year1 he was rather uncertain what sort of reception to expect4 ,it turned out to be a very cordial one1 for the old pasha having just died and his son not yet firmly set in place1 he could not deal with the high hand as ,turks like to do4 ,he expressed himself as pleased at the captain's offer to salute the fortress1 but begged the guns might not be more than eleven1 probably because he had only eleven guns to answer with4 ,it was clear1 however1 that the appearance of the vessel had excited no small apprehension in the town4 ,no ,turks came to look at her1 as usually happens in a port1 and we could see that the few miserable guns in the fort had been trained to bear upon us4 ,at the same time a handsome present was sent to the ship1 consisting of bullocks1 goats1 fowls1 vegetables1 and a very magnificent dress for the captain4 ,the dress was refused1 but the eatables were accepted and a suitable return made4 ,this included ,english ale and porter1 and a big barrel of gunpowder1 which1 slung on a pole carried by two seamen1 looked imposing4 ,the captain and his boat's crew and guard of marines1 all in their best1 and my humble self then landed and went up to pay a visit of ceremony to the pasha4 ,captain ,beaufort in the course of the interview very kindly asked1 on my behalf1 leave for the captain of my caique--which had come on to ,adalia with us--to load his boat with flour1 a profitable cargo which would indemnify him for being discharged by me4 ,the export of flour is really contraband1 but as there is an immense trade quite openly carried on in it by ,greek ships1 they need not have made such a great favour of it as they did4 ,however1 they gave permission1 and ,i was indignant that my late captain never came and thanked me4 ,during our stay we rode one day through the town and out into the country beyond1 which is very rich and well cultivated4 ,there are two interesting gates to the town--one on the land side1 of ,roman architecture1 very rich and much injured1 and the other towards the sea1 of ,frankish work1 with mutilated arms and inscriptions on it4 ,we set sail on the #gth1 without doubt to the great relief of the people of ,adalia1 and cast anchor again at ,lara4 ,here there are considerable ruins1 but none of them very interesting4 ,our next stoppage was at ,eshi ,satalia1 the ancient ,sid1 where we remained four days4 ,the ,roman theatre is of vast dimensions and in good preservation1 and it is noticeable that1 as is evident from marks of crosses on the stones1 it had been repaired in ,christian times1 which shows that theatres were still used after the conversion of the inhabitants to ,christianity4 ,the proscenium was in ruins1 as usual1 and some of its sculptures lay in the arena4 ,in comparatively modern times it had been utilised to form part of the city wall1 but the theatre itself was in wonderful preservation4 ,sid is now absolutely desolate1 probably because the aqueduct which supplied the ancient city is broken1 and there is no water whatever on the site4 ,this accounts for the theatre being so well preserved4 ,i spent all my time among these lonely ruins to very good purpose1 drawing and studying4 ,the architecture is some of it even absurd3 for instance1 the triumphal faade at the entrance2 but the sculpture is all far superior to the architecture4 ,although not in the very best style1 it is exceedingly good1 and cut with astonishing freedom and boldness4 ,as ,i said1 the site of ,sid1 and even the neighbourhood1 is absolutely deserted4 ,nevertheless1 news of our being on the coast had got about1 and a ,turkish dignitary came down from the interior1 ostensibly to offer us civilities1 but in reality to watch our proceedings4 ,he was invited on board1 but refused1 saying1 with a great assumption of dignity1 that he had ridden an hour to the coast to visit the captain1 and now the captain should come to him4 ,the real fact was he was afraid4 ,the captain accordingly came in the jolly-boat1 the crew of which was in charge of a midshipman who charmed the ,turk so much that he wanted to buy him1 and made an offer of #b1jjj piastres for him4 ,on the #afth we reached ,alaia and anchored off the town4 ,it stands on a steep rock projecting into the sea4 ,the houses have a very ,oriental look1 with their flat roofs and balconies1 rather like rabbit-hutches supported on long poles4 ,our reception was very cordial2 a salute was fired1 and a present of bullocks c4 sent us4 ,we landed to take a little turn into the town and found it filthy2 stinks of all kinds in all directions4 ,through narrow streets down which wound gutters1 disgusting with horrors flung from upper windows1 we threaded our way in apprehension of more4 ,the ladies1 however1 were eager to see the ,franks1 and from the streets and from the ship we could descry them peeping at us in their balconies4 ,i went with the captain to pay our visit to the council which governs in the absence of the pasha4 ,we found it sitting in a miserable tumbledown room with walls not even plastered4 ,we sat a few minutes1 asked a few questions mainly about antiquities1 and then retired to the ship to receive their return visit4 ,next morning we set off to the eastwards to look for ruins of ,sydra4 ,the expedition was not a success4 ,in the first place the surf was high and we had difficulty in landing2 then after a long walk we came upon several villages1 but no considerable ruins1 and what there were1 only of late date and uninteresting1 and we had to trudge back disappointed4 ,in the course of our walk we came upon a small ,turkish boy all alone4 ,he screamed with fright to see our strange figures and ran away1 bounding over stock and stone1 and still screaming for help4 ,he had never seen ,franks before4 ,the following day we1 the captain and officers in uniform and myself in my best1 landed to walk in the town4 ,we were first detained a long time at the gate on small excuses1 and then when we started were told by the guide that if we proceeded there was danger of a disturbance4 ,the captain told him to go on all the same1 but as he refused we turned back to the port4 ,then we learnt that the evening before there had been a general meeting of the ,turks to protest against our being allowed to go about the town4 ,we went aboard again2 and from the ship an officer was sent to the council with a severe remonstrance against our treatment1 and the present of bullocks was re-landed on the beach4 ,this attitude of ours brought them at once to their knees2 the humblest apologies were sent with assurances that the offenders were being punished1 and a request that ,captain ,beaufort would come ashore and see the castle as he desired4 ,the captain replied that an officer of his rank could not expose himself to the possibility of a repetition of such affronts as he had submitted to that morning1 but that the beyzesday 7myself7 with some of his officers would go1 as they allowed it4 ,we accordingly went2 but as the authority of governors in these countries is at no time very great1 we went in the fullest expectation of a disturbance and of being forced to turn back4 ,the council seems1 however1 to have kept its promise1 for nothing of the sort occurred4 ,we were entirely unmolested4 ,on the other hand1 there was nothing whatever to see4 ,it was a most fatiguing walk up the hill4 ,the town is defended by three walls1 one inside the other1 never well built and now ruinous1 although well whitewashed to conceal their condition1 and in the whole place only four cannon1 all of them old4 ,on the top of all is the citadel1 itself ruinous and full of the ruins of several ,christian monasteries and churches converted into mosques1 some water tanks and a fountain4 ,over a gate is an inscription to say that ,aladin was conqueror of this city4 ,there are remains of a fine ancient ,greek wall4 ,this was all we saw for our trouble and risk4 ,the council again sent apologies and invitations to ,captain ,beaufort1 but he replied as before2 only1 to show he had no resentment1 he sent his surgeon1 while the anchor was being weighed1 to see what he could do for a member of the council who was ill4 ,i meanwhile1 with a party of officers1 went off in the gig to look at some ruins we had observed to the westward on the top of a hill4 ,we had three miles to go in the boat and about two on foot inland4 ,the hill is high and desperately steep4 ,on the top is a town1 deserted1 with ancient ,greek walls1 a tower1 the ruins of a temple1 a number of pedestals and monuments1 some with inscriptions which we copied1 but none of them gave us the name of the place4 ,we have made up our minds since1 judging by ,strabo's description1 that it must have been ,laertes4 ,the city walls1 the temple1 and the tower are all of cut stone and the best ,greek construction1 while the walls of dwellings are of small stones and mortar4 ,this town1 being all of one sort of date1 is a good example by which to judge of ,greek habits of building4 ,i suppose private houses were always built in this inferior style4 ,our next stoppage was at ,selinty1 originally ,selinus1 and afterwards changed1 on the death of ,trajan within its walls1 to ,trajanopolis4 ,it stands on a remarkable rock1 the ,cragus1 absolutely precipitous on one side and very steep on the other1 with a river1 sixty feet or so wide1 at the bottom of the slope4 ,it struck one as curious that with such a river there should be an aqueduct to carry water across it into the town4 ,one could only suppose that the water of the river1 like that of the cataracts near ,adalia1 was unwholesome because it contained a chalky sediment4 ,to the top of the ,cragus is a great climb4 ,there we found a fortress without any inscriptions of any kind1 but1 to judge by the style1 of no great age and no interest4 ,the best thing was the view4 ,beneath us fell a sheer precipice right down into the sea1 perhaps five hundred feet4 ,as we looked over the top the eagles sprang out from the rocks far below us1 so far that shots fired at them were quite ineffective4 ,we found here a small theatre1 much ruined1 and the remains of a grand senate house1 or perhaps a mausoleum to ,trajan1 also very much injured4 ,the ship remained a day and a half4 ,after passing a promontory we came opposite to a rocky ridge sloping rapidly to the sea1 on which was a fortress1 answering to ,strabo's ,antiochetta on the ,cragus4 ,we put off in the gig1 and had to land on a precipitous rock in a high surf1 which ,i did not like at all2 but as we had been brought1 it had to be done4 ,we found a place that must have had some importance4 ,there were fragments of polished granite columns1 a modern castle1 several ,greek chapels1 and ruins on all sides as well4 ,the most promising were on the mountain above us and on a small peninsula jutting out from the site of the town4 ,my companions made for the small peninsula1 where they found some tombs like those at ,selinty1 and other matters of no great moment4 ,i1 hoping for something more considerable1 went up the mountain--and a very rough climb it was4 ,i was1 however1 well paid for my exertions4 ,i found there numbers of granite columns1 marble blocks and pedestals1 and the ruins of a vast and magnificent edifice which might have been a senate house or a gymnasium4 ,the situation of it was truly sublime1 and it must have had a glorious effect from the sea4 ,i hoped to return and examine it more perfectly next day1 but unfortunately ,captain ,beaufort thought it necessary to get on to ,cape ,anemurium by the #bdth1 in order to make an observation of ,jupiter's satellite which would determine at once his longitude1 and the wind was favourable4 ,we went on therefore1 to my great regret1 and the same evening 7#bcrd7 anchored opposite a small castle on a low rock by the sea4 ,next day1 as we were allowed1 we went all over the castle4 ,it appears to be of ,saracen origin1 and according to an inscription to have been conquered by the ,turk ,aladin4 ,a remarkable thing about it is that it has a keep like those one sees in ,england4 ,it is all in ruins2 such guns as it has are lying about dismounted4 ,i suppose the people hereabouts are so frightened at us that they send the news about in all directions2 for the bey of the district1 who lives at some distance inland1 had heard of our arrival1 and sent down his compliments4 ,captain ,beaufort hastened to send a suitable reply to his courtesy by an officer with an invitation to come on board1 where he would be received with all the honours of war4 ,he did promise to come when he could4 ,all day long ,captain ,beaufort was preparing1 on a small island close to the castle1 the necessary arrangements for making his observation4 ,it was perfectly successful1 and we got back on board at one o'clock ,a4,m4 #beth ,may4--,having done what was wanted with regard to the verification of the longitude1 we went back in a boat to ,cape ,anemurium to see the ancient town4 ,on the point is a fortress and citadel4 ,outside of that a second wall includes a theatre and an odeum1 the seats of which are all gone4 ,there are no traces of dwellings within the walls1 so that one must suppose the inhabitants to have lived in mud or timber houses1 for outside the walls there is the most perfect necropolis ,i ever saw4 ,each tomb has two apartments1 and all1 except for their having been broken open1 are as fresh as if just built4 ,the ship being still at ,anemurium1 the bey above mentioned came down to the beach attended by his retinue4 ,as soon as we made him out1 we pushed off to pay him the compliments of the captain4 ,nothing could be more picturesque than the scene when we reached the shore4 ,at the foot of the precipice of ,anemurium he was seated on a small carpet spread on the rock1 surrounded by about a hundred dark1 savage-looking men all heavily armed4 ,they were clearly as pleased to look at us as we were to see the barbarians of the interior4 ,the gloomy evening cast a grave air over the wild crags and the savage figures1 while the sea broke in heavy waves at the foot of the rock on which ,abdul ,muim sat4 ,the manner with which the bey received us was free and polite4 ,he told us the history of the country about us1 and of the castle in particular4 ,he was very much pressed to come aboard1 but he would not be tempted4 ,instead of that1 he contented himself with inquiring the length of the ship and sat looking at her with a pocket telescope for several hours4 ,we crossed a bay1 and lay off ,cape ,kisliman1 a bluff and remarkable cape on which were ruins1 but the people of the country seemed to object to our examining them4 ,thence to ,chelindreh1 which1 being the nearest point of communication with ,cyprus for couriers from ,constantinople and other travellers1 boasts some twenty huts and their inhabitants4 ,they are barbarous and savage to a degree1 and were disposed to treat the crew of the captain's boat1 who were looking for inscriptions among the tombs of the ancient city1 very roughly4 ,one man even drew his yatagan1 when the sudden appearance of the frigate frightened them into politeness4 ,june #ast4--,to the captain1 who is always earnestly employed1 one day is like another4 ,even ,sundays are only distinguished by the officers' invitation to him and to myself to dine in the gun-room1 and by the clean clothes of the men at muster2 but the other officers did not forget that to-day was an anniversary1 and we all drank the health of ,lord ,howe4 ,porto ,cavaliero4--,to the eastward of us lay ,isola ,provenzale1 once without doubt a settlement of the ,knights of ,rhodes4 ,while the captain examined ,cape ,cavaliero1 ,i went1 burning with expectation1 to the island1 not doubting but that ,i should come home with a load of inscriptions and arms for the ,heralds2 but we found no sort of remains of the occupation of the ,knights that one could identify4 ,we landed near a quarry of soft stone1 in the middle of which an upright rock is left standing1 in which it appears that a hermit had made his cell4 ,there are crosses cut in the three sides1 and several neat little receptacles for utensils4 ,at the top of the hill are fortifications and two churches1 themselves built of the materials of older ,greek buildings4 ,clefts in the rock had been carefully stopped and used as reservoirs4 ,the walls are built with an inner and an outer face of squared stones set in mortar1 the interval being filled in with chips and rubble without cement1 and the whole making a thickness of eight or nine feet4 ,the north-west side of the island is also covered with ruins1 all of the same ,romaic work4 ,one was of a church to which several rooms were attached1 and in one of them a considerable tomb--probably of a saint of the ,early ,church4 ,this must at all times have been a valuable station1 and would be now4 ,it has one of the best and most defensible harbours on this coast1 and is within easy reach of supplies4 ,the captain had fared no better than ourselves in his search for remains of the ,knights at ,porto ,cavaliero4 ,here we fell in with a ,myconiote ship full of hadjis on their return from a visit to the ,holy ,sepulchre at ,jerusalem4 ,my ,dimitri and ,andrea were pigs enough to get drunk there and quarrel with the crew4 ,they got the licking they deserved1 but they came and complained to me that they had been ill-used and ourselves insulted1 and gave me the trouble of inquiring into it4 ,i found1 as ,i had suspected1 that what they had got they had brought upon themselves4 ,our next move was to ,seleucia or ,selefkeh4 ,we landed as near as we could to the end of the line of hills on which it stands1 and then walked to it1 nine miles across the plain at the foot of them4 ,the ancient town is beautifully placed at the side of a river1 the ,calicadnus4 ,it is partly on the plain and partly on steps of rock which rise gradually from it up to a large castle of late date1 which has an ,armenian inscription over the gate4 ,the aga received us with obvious ill-humour1 which perhaps was owing to his being unwell1 for he begged to see our doctor1 and promised to send horses for him and for us to the beach next day4 ,we looked about among the ruins1 which are very extensive4 ,there is a theatre1 a long line of porticoes1 and a temple once converted to a ,christian church1 together with several late churches of the date of the ruins on ,provenzale4 ,we then went back to the ship4 ,next day1 no horses for the doctor or ourselves appearing upon the beach1 we started walking1 and on our arrival at ,selefkeh complained4 ,the aga affected to blame his servants4 ,we expected at least to return well mounted when the doctor had seen the aga and we had seen the town1 but only one sorry hack was prepared for the doctor2 and1 as he refused to ride alone1 we made our exit1 walking in a huff1 and went so briskly that a miserable ,turk whom the aga had sent on a pony1 while we had to walk1 to bring him back his medicine1 could not keep up with us1 and was quite out of sight by the time we got to the beach4 ,so we went aboard1 rather pleased at first to deprive the ungracious aga of his medicine2 but upon reflection we wrote him a sharp laconic note and sent his dose4 ,this aga1 it is true1 was not a man of good character2 he had deposed and murdered his predecessor1 but as that is the usual mode of succession in this country1 it need not necessarily involve discourtesy to strangers4 ,but ,i must not1 in justice to ,turks1 forget to mention what occurred on our way to the beach as a set-off to the incivility of the aga4 ,we had had nothing to eat all day1 and we were not a little sharp-set when1 finding some peasants 7,turks7 amongst the corn making their evening meal1 with that confidence which hunger inspires we pounced upon their dishes and devoured all that appeared before us4 ,the poor fellows were not in the least disconcerted1 but begged us to eat1 one of them saying as he pointed to the corn all round him1 ',there is plenty of bread4 ,it is ours4' ,they would take no money1 and when we got up to go pressed us to stay4 ,our hearts were melted at their noble benevolence1 and we had to agree that all ,turks were not brutes4 ,on the whole1 ,seleucia is worth the trouble of a visit4 ,an immense reservoir1 #aej by #ge feet by #cj feet deep1 supplied by an aqueduct1 impressed me as a very fine work4 ,the theatre also1 although totally ruined1 is delightfully situated2 and the temple1 which had been converted into a church1 is very interesting4 ,the ,calicadnus1 although it is on an even bed1 is a noble river1 wide and rapid1 and gives great beauty to the scene4 ,it is unhealthy to drink1 which accounts for the existence of the great reservoir4 ,it is evident that the population of these countries has decreased1 and still is decreasing4 ,it has not one-tenth of what it could easily support1 and not one-hundredth of what it has supported in past times4 ,while we were away at ,selefkeh a bombard ,french privateer came into the bay of ,seleucia in pursuit of a ,turkish boat1 and would have fallen into our hands if the captain and pilot had been on board2 but the necessary delay before this could be done enabled the ,frenchman to get to shallow water1 and the ,frederiksteen in pursuit ran into four fathoms1 and in another five minutes would have been aground4 ,so the bombard escaped4#dj ,anchored off ,lingua di ,bagascia4--,we arrived at a castle named ,curco1 with another on a rock outside the port1 which has an ,armenian inscription on it4 ,the one on the mainland1 which ,i take to be the ancient ,coricus1 is a place of great strength4 ,there is a moat thirty feet wide1 cut in solid rock1 to disconnect from the land1 and double walls and towers4 ,there are many ruins of modern churches and monasteries and numberless sarcophagi of ancient and early ,christian times1 but the whole place1 town and castles1 is absolutely deserted4 ,we were in the boat following the frigate as she proceeded along the coast1 when1 perceiving ruins on the coast1 we disembarked1 and found on a striking eminence a ,corinthian temple of bad execution which had been converted into a church4 ,further on was a town1 a theatre1 and a vast colonnade with a number of important and very perfect tombs4 ,we had1 however1 to retire to the boat1 for the inhabitants were very threatening1 and had we been fewer or shown any fear might have fared badly4 ,as soon as we were off in the boat we had a good bathe4 ,at the ,latmus4--,captain ,beaufort sent two of his officers ashore to inspect the long aqueduct leading to ,eleusa1 which we could see from the ship1 but the aga1 who had at first consented to their going1 withdrew his permission1 and they had to give it up4 ,at ,pompeiopolis1 as we had understood that the ,turks of this part of the country were particularly dangerous1 ,i took with me two marines as a guard to visit the ruins4 ,seen from the sea they presented a truly startling grandeur4 ,the plan of the city is noble in the extreme--one single colonnade passes right through it from the port to the gate leading out into the country1 and forty of its columns are still standing4 ,the remainder1 making about two hundred1 lie as they fell4 ,the town was defended by a fine wall with towers to it1 enclosing a theatre and the port4 ,the style of the architecture1 which looked so well from a distance1 when one comes to see it close is very bad4 ,pompeiopolis is quite deserted1 but the ,turks from the neighbouring villages came in1 and1 although their appearance was barbarous in the extreme1 they were very civil4 ,i imagine the #cf guns and #cej men of the ,frederiksteen had to do with this1 for ,i observed that the further we got from the ship the less polite we always found the ,turks to be4 ,we made sail in the evening and anchored off ,mersine1 at the beginning of the great plain of ,tarsous1 and put ashore to reconnoitre and pay a visit to the aga with a view to getting horses to go to ,tarsous4 ,the aga was very civil and promised we should have the horses we asked for4 ,in the morning the horses were ready2 but now the aga1 for whatever reason1 discouraged our going to ,tarsous1 and told us that since seeing us yesterday evening he had received news of an outbreak there1 that a neighbouring pasha had attacked the town and all was uproar and arms4 ,on reflection his account struck us as so improbable that we decided at any rate to start1 and go on according to the information we should pick up on the road4 ,we set out1 a large party4 ,the country was a flat1 covered with corn and in it many reapers1 male and female1 the latter going uncovered and quite unembarrassed by strangers4 ,their language and costume were ,arab1 quite unlike anything ,i had seen before1 and there were quantities of camels about4 ,the ride took us four hours4 ,from the inquiries we made from time to time it was clear that the aga's tale had been a downright lie4 ,tarsous lies on the plain about two miles and a half from the mountains4 ,at the entrance to it is a hillock about a quarter of a mile long1 which commands the town2 it was included in the ancient walls1 which were then strengthened by a moat into which the river was turned4 ,it is now dry1 and the present town has nothing but a slight wall round it4 ,we passed over the old moat and through an ancient gate of ,roman work4 ,it had three arches1 but only one of them is standing1 and the wall it formed the passage through and every other antiquity in the town has been destroyed and used up for building materials4 ,nothing could exceed the surprise of the inhabitants at our appearance4 ,they had never seen ,europeans1 and they crowded about us in such numbers that we could with difficulty move4 ,we went to visit the aga and were detained1 sitting among the servants an hour and a half before we could obtain an audience4 ,the aga1 they said1 was engaged4 ,at last we remonstrated and got up to go2 when1 to our surprise and indignation1 we saw the aga sitting in a room by himself smoking his pipe and quite unoccupied4 ,we would have passed the door had they not pressed us in1 so angry were we4 ,he was sitting on a sofa in a long white ,arab cloak in a room that was neater and handsomer than it is usual to see in these countries4 ,he made a slight motion on our coming in1 but spoke not a word1 nor did he deign to answer ',yhary' when we conveyed to him the compliments of the captain4 ,a ,turk who sat by his side with our firman in his hands now addressed a ,turk who was with us with an affectation of great indignation4 ,he wanted to know what could be the meaning of four hundred men1 when only eight men were mentioned in the firman--together with a number of other insolent questions1 from which ,i gathered that he suspected us of being travelling merchants4 ,fortunately1 as these remarks were not addressed to us1 we were not bound to make any reply1 for if we had we were by this time in such a state of impatience with their insolent barbarity that it would hardly have been a conciliatory one4 ,as soon as we could get away1 we mounted our horses again1 and through a thick and insulting rabble went out of the town and homewards without delay4 ,an old ,turk of the aga's people1 who had been one of the chief of our tormentors1 saw us off for some distance4 ,to him ,i had the satisfaction of giving a piece of my mind1 and when we came within sight of the ship gave him an invitation on board that he might see how we treated strangers4 ,the old rascal went home very much abashed and awestruck4 ,we arrived on board late1 and well wetted by coming through the violent surf4 ,the ship was two more days off the great plain of ,tarsous1 moving slowly in a thick haze1 and on the #afth arrived off ,cape ,karadash4 ,the captain proposed to me that ,i should go with ,mr4 ,wingham to reconnoitre a great lake one could see from the ship4 ,about one mile ,n4,w4 of the cape we turned up a deep channel like a river mouth1 except that the current set inwards instead of outwards1 and after about three-quarters of a mile entered an apparently boundless lake4 ,it was very shallow1 and before long we were aground1 after which the men waded and towed the boat4 ,in this fashion we went several miles till we had got a fair general notion of the size of the sheet of water4 ,a deceptive atmospheric effect1 due to the great evaporation1 would hide the shore when very low1 so that it presented the appearance of a sheet of water4 ,owing to this ,i had a bitter disappointment4 ,ahead of us we descried four beautiful deer1 which1 as we approached1 fled to what appeared to me to be the isthmus of a peninsula4 ,i cried to one of the boatmen1 who had a musket1 to run to the isthmus to cut them off1 while ,i and two others made for the other side1 hoping to get a shot at them4 ,as we got nearer1 the fancied water vanished1 and the deer1 a herd of ten beauties1 ran up into the plain4 ,they were spotted like fallow deer1 but with short horns turning back like those of a goat4 ,coming back1 we saw immense flocks1 of perhaps ten thousand at once1 of white stately birds about as big as swans ,flamingoes4--,,ed41 the tail beautiful with red feathers4 ,they stood in ranks like soldiers1 and now and again flapped their wings all at once and shrieked4 ,there were numbers of large fish about1 and the water was so shallow that their backs stood out of it4 ,all the same1 when we tried to catch them they were too quick for us4 ,the only thing we did secure was a big turtle4 ,at ,cape ,mallo we went ashore and walked over the ruins4 ,thence we moved down the coast1 anchored eight miles west of ,ayas ,castle1 and rowed on to it4 ,there are the remains of the ancient town of g to be seen1 and a modern ,turkish castle4 ,when we entered the mouth of the port we noticed that some ,turks standing on a tower which commanded it shouted and gesticulated to us in a threatening manner4 ,they were all armed4 ,i1 however1 set it down to fear on their part1 and recommended our going on4 ,unhappily1 we did so2 and ,i can never sufficiently regret the part ,i had in bringing on the catastrophe which will always make ,ayas a painful recollection4 ,nothing further occurred that evening2 we walked about1 and when it grew dark went aboard again4 ,june #bjth4--,we went ashore1 a strong party1 and scattered in various directions4 ,the captain took his surveying instruments1 a little to the westwards4 ,another party stripped to bathe and hunt turtles1 of which there were many2 while two others and myself walked towards the castle4 ,the jolly-boat1 under command of a midshipman1 young ,olphert1 was to meet us to the east of the castle4 ,all at once ,dimitri came running up to us to say that a ,turk had robbed one of the party4 ,his account was that while they were bathing1 this ,turk1 attracted by the gilt buttons on the coat of a petty officer1 and taking them for gold1 had run off with it4 ,we walked at once to the beach1 where several ,turks of the village were collected4 ,they tried to conciliate us1 saying it was a ,turcoman from the mountains who had been the thief1 and that the coat had already been restored4 ,just then up came ,mr4 ,lane to tell us to get immediately to the boats1 that the captain had been dangerously wounded and young ,olphert shot dead4 ,we did as he told us1 and got back to the ship2 but my horror and surprise were succeeded by the most violent indignation1 and there was nothing ,i hoped for so much as that orders would be given for a general attack on the village4 ,as soon as ,i was on board ,i went to see ,captain ,beaufort4 ,his wound1 ,i was glad to find1 was not so dangerous as was thought at first4 ,the ball had entered the fleshy part of the thigh and had broken the bone at the hip4 ,still1 it was a serious wound1 and he was a good deal shaken4 ,when he heard of poor ,olphert's death he burst into tears1 and bitterly upbraided himself with having been the cause of it4 ,it seems that when the band of ruffians came to attack his boat and began to point their guns1 he1 to frighten them1 fired over their heads4 ,hereupon they all fell down in abject terror1 and the boats1 pushing off1 got nearly clear of the rocks4 ,one man1 however1 more resolute than the rest1 rushed forwards1 and taking deliberate aim from behind a rock1 shot the captain3 and had the rest of the ruffians been like him1 the whole boat's crew must have been sacrificed4 ,as it was1 the boat was out of range before they recovered4 ,but having whetted their appetite for blood1 and furious at having been shot at1 they rushed off to where young ,olphert was with his boat and murdered him as he was pushing off4 ,the condition ,captain ,beaufort was in was so serious1 and his concern lest ,olphert's death should have been in any sense his fault1 so painful1 that ,i took upon myself to tell him a deliberate falsehood1 for which ,i trust ,god will forgive me4 ,i assured him positively that ,olphert had been already shot when the natives came to attack his 7the captain's7 boat4 ,as he was a long way from where ,olphert was1 he had no means of knowing that it might not have been so1 and he was eventually persuaded and his mind very much quieted4 ,at first we had hoped that we might be allowed to seek our own redress1 but the coolness and moderation of the captain were admirable4 ,when one came to consider1 it was not at all clear that the villagers had had any hand in it1 and to destroy the village would not be to punish the offenders4 ,it was sure to make all travelling dangerous1 if not impossible1 for the future1 and finally it would be the act of war on the territories of a friendly ,power1 barbarous as that ,power might be4 ,it was therefore settled that we should apply for redress through the regular channel4 ,we crossed the bay to ,scanderoon1 which is a miserable town with a population half ,turks and half ,cypriote ,greeks1 and no resident official higher than an aga4 ,we did what we could to frighten this person by representing the affair to him in its most serious light1 at the same time calling his attention to the strict moderation of our conduct1 and our respect for the authorities of the country4 ,meanwhile a peremptory letter demanding reparation was despatched to the pasha himself1 who lived some miles inland4 ,he returned an immediate reply to the effect that ,ayas was not within his pashalik1 but in that of his neighbour the pasha of ,adana1 to whom he had at once written4 ,meanwhile he promised in his name that every reparation should be made4 ,in our turn we informed him that a ,british squadron would be there in fifteen days to see that this was done4 ,in the cemetery attached to the old ,british factory and consulate we buried poor young ,olphert4 ,ten marines 7all the aga would allow ashore7 fired a salute over him1 and we set up over his grave a ,greek tombstone brought from one of the cities on the coast4 ,considering how many tokens of friendship ,captain ,beaufort had shown me1 and that he was at the moment in a dangerous condition1 with a risk of fever coming on2 and that1 as he could not enjoy easy familiarity with his junior officers1 my company might be pleasant to him1 ,i thought ,i ought not to leave him and settled to go back with him to ,malta4 ,two days after ,olphert's funeral1 on the #bbnd ,june1 we set sail4 ,on the #ast of ,july we fell in with the ,salsette1 ,captain ,hope1 off ,khelidonia1 by appointment4 ,she was to take ,captain ,beaufort's report to the admiral on the station1 and to go on to ,scanderoon afterwards to see that proper amends were made for the injury done us4 ,,footnote3 #dj ,captain ,beaufort seems to have thought that she was a ,mainiote pirate4 ,his account of this episode is worth reading4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,malta--,,attacked ,,by ,,bilious ,,fever--,,sails ,,to ,,palermo--,,segeste--,,leaves ,,for ,,girgenti--,,immigrant ,,albanians--,,selinunto--,,travelling ,,with ,,sicilians-- ,,girgenti--,,restores ,,the ,,temple ,,of ,,the ,,giants--,,leaves ,,for ,,syracuse-- ,,occupations ,,in ,,syracuse--,,sale ,,of ,,the ,,gina ,,marbles--,,leaves ,,for ,,zante4 ,we had nothing but west winds1 very unfavourable for us4 ,meltern1 as this wind is called1 follows the rim of the coast of ,asia ,minor1 being north in the ,archipelago1 west along ,karamania1 and turning south again down the coast of ,syria4 ,we were seldom out of sight of land--first the mountains of ,asia1 then ,rhodes1 ,crete1 the ,morea1 c4 ,finally we reached ,malta on the #ahth of ,july1 being the twenty-seventh day since we left ,scanderoon1 and the end of a month of complete idleness4 ,i spent most of the time in the captain's cabin1 showing him all the attention ,i could1 and profiting in return very much by his society and his library4 ,to get to ,malta was a refreshment to our spirits4 ,numbers of visitors came at once under the stern to salute ,captain ,beaufort1 although until we had pratique they could not come aboard4 ,the plague is at present in ,smyrna1 and quarantine for ships from thence usually lasts thirty or forty days2 but as we could prove that we had had no communication with any infected town1 we were let off in two days4 ,unfortunately1 from the moment we arrived ,i began to feel unwell4 ,all the time ,i was on the coast of ,asia ,i had been taking violent exercise and perspiring profusely1 while since we left ,i had been wholly confined2 and the consequence of the change was a violent bilious attack with fever4 ,after stopping in bed three days ,i thought ,i would take a trip to ,sant' ,antonio with ,gammon1 the senior officer2 but ,i got back so thoroughly done up that ,i had to lie up again1 and was ill for three weeks in ,thorn's ,hotel4#da ,my chief remedies1 prescribed by ,doctors ,stewart of the ,frederiksteen and ,allen of the ,malta ,hospital1 were calomel in large quantities and bleeding4 ,every day one or other of the officers of the ,frederiksteen--,gammon1 ,seymour1 ,lane1 or ,dodd--came to sit with me4 ,when ,i was able to get about again1 ,i found that ,captain ,beaufort had been moved to the house of ,commissioner ,larcom1 where every possible care was taken of him4 ,they were a most agreeable and hospitable family--the only one1 indeed1 in ,malta4 ,the officers--,general ,oakes1 ,colonel ,phillips1 c4--were like all garrison officers4 ,mr4 ,chabot1 the banker1 honoured my drafts1 and when ,i was going expressed his sorrow that ,i was off so soon1 as he had hoped to have seen me at his house4 ,as soon as ever ,i was well enough ,i felt eager to get away from a society so odious to me as that of ,malta1 and having been introduced from two separate sources to ,mr4 ,harvey1 commander of ,h4,m4 brig ,haughty1 ,i got from him an excellent passage to ,palermo4 ,it took us from the #bjth ,august to the #bhth4 ,mr4 ,harvey himself was ill1 and ,i saw little of him1 but what ,i did delighted me4 ,like all sailors1 he was very lovable1 and so long as he remained in ,palermo ,i went to him every day4 ,my first day ,i strolled over the town and delivered my letters to ,mr4 ,gibbs and ,mr4 ,fagan4 ,the latter is an antiquarian and a great digger4 ,he told me1 ,i think1 that he had dug up over two hundred statues in his time4 ,i called on him several times afterwards1 pleased with his conversation and hoping to learn something of ,sicily from him1 and found him exceedingly polite4 ,a return of the fever ,i had in ,malta confined me again for a few days1 after which ,i managed to keep it at bay with plenty of port wine and bark4 ,my chief friends in ,palermo were ,general and ,mrs4 ,campbell1 ,sir ,robert ,laurie1 captain of a #gd lying here1 ,lord ,william ,bentinck1 generalissimo of the ,british army of occupation in ,sicily1 and ,fagan4 ,after a fortnight in ,palermo ,i started on a trip to ,segeste4 ,i could not but be very much struck by the difference between the richness of ,sicily1 and the desolation of ,greece under ,turkish rule4 ,mahomet ,,ii4 desired that on his tomb should be written that had he lived he proposed in the ensuing summer to conquer 'the beautiful ,italy and the island of ,rhodes4' ,sicily must have followed1 and ,i pictured in my mind the landscape as it would then have looked4 ,a few ruined mosques would have supplied the place of the splendid churches and monasteries1 and a wretched khan and a few low huts the rich towns of ,sala and ,partinico4 ,the temple of ,segeste is the largest ,i have seen1 but it looks as if it had never been finished4 ,the style of workmanship is good and exact1 but as far inferior to ,athenian execution as its rough stone is to ,pentilican marble4 ,the turn of the capital is very inferior in delicacy to ,athenian examples1 and there is no handsome finish to the ceiling of the peristyle1 which was probably of plaster like gina4 ,the circular sinking cut in the plinth to receive the column1 leaving a space all round to give a play1 it is said1 in case of earthquake1 is certainly curious if that was the purpose of it4 ,nothing whatever remains of the cella4 ,in the evening we returned to ,alcamo and next day breakfasted with ,colonel ,burke1 who is in command of a regiment of #a1djj fine men1 all ,piedmontese and ,italians1 not ,sicilians4 ,one finds ,englishmen in command everywhere4 ,returned to ,palermo4 ,my fame had spread in my absence1 and on my return ,i found my table covered with cards and invitations--the most conspicuous being from ,general ,macfarlane and ,lord ,montgomery4 ,the palaces of the ,sicilian nobles are exasperatingly pretentious and tasteless2 that of ,palagonia is an unforgetable nightmare4 ,though a paradise compared with ,greece1 ,i find ,sicily seething with discontent2 and were it not for ,lord ,w4 ,bentinck1 to whom the people look up as the only honest man amongst the authorities1 there would be an insurrection4 ,ten days later ,i set out on horseback for ,girgenti4 ,on the second day ,i turned aside from ,villa ,frat to visit one of the ,greek villages so much talked of and so misrepresented4 ,in ,palermo ,i was told that the villagers are some of the ancient ,greek settlers1 who remain so unchanged that they still wear sandals and are almost pagans4 ,in reality they are ,albanians1 who emigrated in the sixteenth century when the oppression of the ,turks was specially severe in their country1 and came in bands to various points of ,sicily4 ,mezzojuso is one of their settlements1 and has about #b1jjj inhabitants4 ,the situation1 about two miles off the road from ,villa ,frat to ,alcara1 is on the side of a mountain and very beautiful4 ,i met some goodhumoured peasants who were ready to tell me all they knew4 ,they talk ,albanian amongst themselves1 and they readily understood the few words of it which ,i and my servant could speak4 ,the explanation of the report of their being almost pagans is that they retain the ,greek ritual1 although they have changed the altar to the ,catholic form and acknowledge the supremacy of the ,pope4 ,over the altar is a ,greek inscription1 which ,i read1 to the surprise of those who attended me4 ,the priests preserve the ,greek costume1 the bead cap1 hair1 c4 ,st4 ,nicolas1 the ,greek saint par excellence1 is a conspicuous figure in the ,church4 ,what a pity ,i had not with me a little of the earth ,i took from the shrine of the saint at ,myra in ,asia ,minor6 ,it would have been an acceptable present to the priest4 ,i saw none of the women1 but ,i was told they wear a peculiar costume2 and at their communion1 instead of the host1 as in ,roman ,catholic churches1 a piece of cloth is held up4 ,started for the temples of ,selinunto1 accompanied by ,don ,ignazio1 the son of my host1 ,don ,gaetano4 ,we took the road towards the sea1 and passing through ,siciliana and turning inland came in the evening to ,cattolica4 ,here we added to our party a most entertaining companion1 ,don ,raffaelle ,politi1 a painter1 not very excellent in his art1 though one of the best in ,sicily1 but full of talents and of humour4 ,he was staying at the time in the house of a certain marquis1 for whom he had been painting two ceilings4 ,we went to see him there1 and found him with the marchese1 sitting over a greasy table surrounded by a company of nasty fellows1 such as in ,england one might see in a shopkeeper's parlour4 ,no sort of civility or hospitality was shown us4 ,on the other hand1 a friend and equal of ,don ,raffaelle's received us very kindly4 ,he and a company of tradesmen who had come over to a fair which was being held in ,cattolica1 and had of course brought their guitars with them1 entertained us before supper in the locanda4 ,next day we passed by the ancient city of ,heraclia1 of which1 however1 there are very trifling remains1 to ,sciacca1 where in the market-place we saw dead meat--meat of animals that had died of disease owing to the great drought this year1 which has killed a great many cattle--being sold to the poor at a cheap rate4 ,travelling with ,sicilians ,i fell into their customs1 and instead of looking out for an hotel ,i went with them into a caf where we ate and drank4 ,the cafetiere1 to show his liberality1 in pouring out lets the cup overflow until the saucer also is full1 after which he brings spirits and cigars--all customs new to me4 ,arrived in a storm at ,montefeice1 wet through4 ,my friends slept on a mattress1 and ,i1 who was accustomed to it1 slept on the floor4 ,nothing can be more solemn than the magnificent remains of the three temples of ,selinus1 but ,i had not many hours to study them4 ,it is clear that earthquake was the cause of their destruction1 and ,i guess from the difference in preservation between the parts which fell and were covered and protected1 and the condition of those which remain standing1 that it may have occurred about the eighth or ninth century4 ,we went over twice from ,montefeice1 each time returning in the evening2 and when we got home1 how differently we spent our evenings from the ordinary way ,englishmen do6 ,had they been my companions we should have cursed the fare and lodging1 and should have laid ourselves down grumbling to pass a tedious and uncomfortable night4 ,instead of that1 with these ,sicilians1 as soon as the demands of hunger were satisfied1 at the sound of a guitar in the streets1 we sallied out and joined the serenaders1 stopped under the windows of some fair one we did not know1 and ,don ,raffaelle1 who is a perfect master of the guitar and ravished the bystanders1 played and sang with much taste a number of exceedingly pretty melodies4 ,if this was not enough for the evening1 we sat and told stories4 ,at ,cattolica we arrived so late that every inch of the locanda was occupied4 ,we did not care to disturb our friend of the previous occasion1 ,don ,giuseppe1 and the marchese's hospitality had been so grudgingly offered that we were too proud to accept it1 and so we sought consolation by going about the streets with a guitar till we were tired of it1 and then taking horse again2 but before going far we were so weary that we got off under a tree1 sat down1 and waited for dawn to light us back to ,girgenti4 ,after my return to ,girgenti1 ,i remained there till the #adth of ,november1 applying myself with close attention and infinite pleasure to attempting to reconstruct the ,temple of ,jupiter ,olympius4 ,the examination of the stones and the continual exercise of ingenuity kept me very busy1 and at the end the successful restoration of the temple gave me a pleasure which was only to be surpassed by that of originally conceiving the design4 ,my days went by in great peace and content4 ,i lived with the family of ,don ,gaetano ,sterlini1 and when ,i got accustomed to them ,i learnt to like them4 ,the bawling of the servants1 the open doors1 the dirt and disorder of a ,sicilian household came after a time to be matters of course to me and passed unnoticed4 ,but there came an ,english fine gentleman1 by the name of ,cussins1 to spend two days here1 who was not so philosophical and made himself odious by protesting4 ,when anyone came into or went out of the room1 the doors1 which never else turned on their hinges1 must be shut2 the windows1 that perhaps lacked two or three panes1 must be closed2 the shutters bolted2 he could not eat the food nor drink the wine4 ,a creature so refined is as unpleasant an object to a barbarian as the latter is to him1 and we prayed for his departure4 ,my fine friend was supercilious to me1 but polite in a lofty fashion1 and took a patronising interest in what ,i was doing4 ,would ,i give him some notes and a sketch8 ,at first ,i said ,i would1 but his manner disgusted me1 so that ,i finally sent him only the notes4 ,he wanted the sketch to flourish at ,palermo4 ,in the last few days of my stay my fame got about4 ,the ,caff dei ,nobili1 the bishop and all1 heard with astonishment that ,i had unravelled the puzzle1 and that all the morsels composing the giants were still existing and could be put together again4 ,a dignitary of the ,church1 7,don87 ,candion ,panettieri1 sent me a message to say that if ,i would mark the stones and give directions for the setting up of one of the giants1 he would undertake the expense of doing it4 ,i was tempted by this offer and the immediate notoriety it would give me1 and agreed and completed my sketch as far as it could be carried and took it to him4 ,it was copied immediately1 and with my name appended as the author1 sent to ,palermo4 ,then ,i went over the fragments with ,raffaelle ,politi and marked the stones corresponding with the numbers in the design4 ,don ,gaetano could not contain his indignation at my suffering the results of so much labour to be launched into the world as it were semi-anonymously1 instead of in a book duly written and published by myself1 the author4 ,from the moment ,i handed over my drawing to ,politi to copy there was no peace between us4 ,i could not help being gratified at the interest he took in my success1 and my feeling for him was sharpened by the sentiment with which his fair daughter had inspired me1 which was so strong that it made me feel the necessity of going away1 and yet made me weep like a noodle when ,i did4 ,but ,i had found my reward in the pleasure of solving the puzzle1 and though ,i liked the notoriety1 it was not worth giving oneself much trouble about4 ,i left ,girgenti with ,don ,ignazio ,sala1 son-in-law of ,sterlini1 for ,alicata1 and the consul himself saw me as far as the ,river ,agrigas4 ,on our left were many sulphur works1 which are so injurious to vegetation that there is a law in force that they shall not work from the time the corn begins to get up till after the harvest4 ,from ,palma the road lies along the seashore1 and there at every mile and a half are watch-towers1 or1 failing these1 straw huts for the coastguard to give warning of ,barbary corsairs4 ,until lately this coast was infested by them4 ,their descents were small1 and they carried off only a few men or cattle2 but there was once a desperate action near ,alicata1 in which the inhabitants turned out1 headed by the priest1 and captured the whole party of twenty-five who had landed4 ,the prisoners were sent by ,palermo to ,algiers to be exchanged4 ,alicata to ,serra ,nuova4 ,serra ,nuova to ,cartalagerone4 ,we had to cross a river on the way1 the banks of which were high and the river swollen by the rain1 and one mule with baggage and man rolled right into it4 ,the night got very dark1 and ,i really thought we should have to stop on the bank all night or break our necks1 but by help of repeated invocations indifferently to ,maria ,sanctissima and ,santo ,diavolone we got across safely at last4 ,from ,cartalagerone by ,mineo to ,lentini1 and so to ,syracuse4 ,although compared with the ancient town it is tiny and confined entirely to the island of ,ortygia1 the modern ,syracuse has considerable fortifications4 ,we had to pass through four gates and two dykes before we got inside4 ,at one gate the guard wanted to take our arms1 till ,i remonstrated on the insult to the ,british nation1 and they let me pass4 ,but1 then1 if they did not mean to enforce it1 how ridiculous ever to make such a regulation6 ,as soon as ,i was settled ,i despatched a letter my friend ,raffaelle ,politi had given me to his father1 who came at once1 offered me every civility1 and remained my fast friend throughout my stay4 ,cockerell spent three months--,december1 ,january1 and ,february--in ,syracuse4 ,for one thing his health had been severely shaken by the grave illness he had had in ,malta1 and he needed rest4 ,it seems to have made a turning-point in his travels4 ,hitherto his letters home had been full of joyous anticipations of getting back to ,england1 and with restless energy he had endeavoured to cram the utmost into his time before doing that1 and settling into harness as an architect4 ,seeing so many countries and going through so many vicissitudes had1 however1 weakened the tie and he could now make himself at home anywhere4 ,for another thing1 a main object of his travels--perhaps the main object--was a visit to ,italy1 as for practical purposes ,italian architecture was the best worth studying4 ,but the war with ,france continuing1 ,italy remained closed indefinitely to a ,british subject4 ,so for several years there are no more references to coming home4 ,a last reason for stopping where he was1 was that the weather was detestable4 ,it was the terrible winter of the retreat from ,moscow4 ,for forty days1 he says1 it never failed to rain1 snow1 or hail4 ,his time was chiefly spent in preparing the drawings for the plates of the great contemplated book on gina and ,phigaleia4 ,besides this1 he seems to have drawn in the museum1 and to have read a good deal2 he learnt the art of cutting cameos1 and even executed some2 and finally1 fired by the performances of his friend ,politi1 he spent two hours a day in learning to play the guitar4 ,he probably never carried this accomplishment very far and abandoned it on leaving ,sicily1 for ,i never recollect even hearing it alluded to4 ,the time passed very quietly4 ,he had some friends among the ,sicilians1 besides the ,politis--,don ,pietro ,satallia1 the ,conte ,bucchieri1 and one ,english acquaintance1 ,lieutenant ,winter1 adjutant of the town and fort1 who had a nice ,english wife and large family1 with whom he spent occasional evenings4 ,for the most part1 however1 he spent his evenings studying in his lodgings1 and on the whole1 he says1 ,i can say of ,syracuse what ,i wish ,i could say of all the places ,i ever stopped in3 ,i do not repent of the time ,i spent there4 ,during the latter part of his stay1 when the weather grew less severe1 he was a good deal occupied in examining the walls of ancient ,syracuse1 and the fortress of ,labdalum4 ,a letter received at about this time from ,linckh records the death of the little ,skye terrier ,fop which my father had brought with him from ,england4 ,when he left ,athens to go with ,messrs4 ,north1 ,douglas1 and ,foster to ,crete1 en route for ,egypt1 he left the dog behind in charge of a certain ,nicolo1 who seems to have gone with ,bronstedt and ,linckh not long after on the expedition they undertook to ,zea in ,december #ahaa4444 ,dans la lettre gare je vous ai crit le sort malheureux de votre pauvre ,fope1 qui a fini ses jours misrablement et en grande famine ,zea4 ,bronstedt et moi nous lui avons encore prolong son triste destin pour quelques jours1 car nous l'avons trouv mourant dans un ravin entre la ville de ,zea et le port4 ,vraiment ce ,nicolo est un tre infme et malicieux4 ,vous savez que nous lui avons confisqu la bague du ,platon qu'il a porte aussitt que vous autres tes partis d',athnes pour ,egypte4 ,he had stolen it1 as he did later various articles from ,hughes and ,parker1 q4v4 ,comme nous avons quitt l'isle de ,zea1 il faisait une banque de pharaon pour piller les ,zeotes4 ,he had kept in communication with his friends in ,greece1 and especially with ,gropius1 to whom he had written repeatedly on the subject of the sale of the gina ,marbles1 but it was not till ,march that he could have heard of the disastrous issue4 ,what had happened was this4 ,it will be remembered that while the statues themselves had been conveyed for security to ,malta1 the sale of them had been advertised to take place in ,zante on ,november #a1 #ahab4 ,when the day arrived only two bidders presented themselves in the sale room1 one bearing an offer from the ,french ,government1 and ,herr ,wagner another from ,prince ,louis of ,bavaria4 ,the ,british ,museum had sent out a ,mr4 ,coombe with ample powers to buy for ,england1 but he never turned up4 ,he had reached ,malta in good time1 but having understood from ,mr4 ,mc,gill1 who was pro tem4 agent for ,gropius1 that the sale would take place where the marbles were1 took it for granted that he knew all about it and there stayed1 waiting for the auctioneer to come4 ,meanwhile the sale came off at ,zante4 ,the ,french offer of #afj1jjj francs proved to be altogether too conditional to be accepted1 and the sculptures were knocked down to ,prince ,louis for #aj1jjj sequins4 ,it was suggested afterwards that ,gropius had been bribed by ,wagner to keep the ,english parties in the dark1 but it was never proved4 ,what is clear is that if ,gropius had kept his agent1 ,mc,gill1 properly informed as to the place of sale1 ,coombe would have been able to bid and the gina statues would be in the ,british ,museum now4 ,cockerell at once set out from ,syracuse for ,zante4 ,but he found that when he joined there was really nothing to be done4 ,he at first tried to upset the contract1 but on reflection he found himself obliged in honour and in law to abide by the action of their agent4 ,a new agreement was drawn up and signed1 confirming the former and engaging to petition the ,british ,government for leave to export the sculptures from ,malta4 ,at home in ,england the deepest disappointment was felt by those who had interested themselves in the acquisition1 and a protest was forwarded by ,mr4 ,s4 ,p4 ,cockerell through ,mr4 ,hamilton to the ,government1 petitioning that no permission to remove the marbles from ,malta should be granted1 and demanding a new sale on the ground of improper procedure in the first4 ,in the end1 however1 it was not found possible to contest the validity of the sale1 and they were finally delivered to the ,prince of ,bavaria in #ahad4 ,,footnote3 #da ,now the ,htel de ,provence4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,athens--,,the ,,excavation ,,of ,,marbles ,,at ,,bass--,,bronstedt',s ,,mishap--,,fate ,,of ,,the ,,corinthian ,,capital ,,of ,,bass--,,severe ,,illness--,,stackelberg',s ,,mishap--,,trip ,,to ,,albania ,,with ,,hughes ,,and ,,parker--,,thebes--,,livadia--,,the ,,five ,,emissaries--,,state ,,of ,,the ,,country--,,merchants ,,of ,,livadia--,,delphi-- ,,salona--,,galaxidi--,,patras--,,previs a--,,nicopolis--,,arta--,,the ,,plague--,,janina4 ,the fate of the gina ,marbles being now practically settled1 ,foster1 who was engaged to make a marriage very displeasing to his family1 with a ,levantine1 left for ,smyrna1 while ,haller1 ,linckh1 and ,cockerell went to ,athens4 ,the latter had not been in ,greece since ,november #ahaa4 ,in the interval the expedition to dig up the sculptures he had discovered at ,bass had been there and had successfully accomplished their purpose1 the party consisting of ,haller1 ,foster1 ,linckh1 ,stackelberg1 ,gropius1 ,bronstedt1 and an ,english traveller1 ,mr4 ,leigh4#db ,they had provided themselves with powers from ,constantinople sufficient to overcome the resistance of the local authorities1 and after many difficulties had succeeded in bringing away the sculptures with one exception1 to which ,i will presently refer4 ,the excavations were carried out in ,june1 ,july1 and ,august1 while my father was absent at ,malta and in ,sicily4 ,nevertheless1 as he had discovered their existence it was understood that he was to be a participator in any sculptures that should be disinterred4 ,the party of excavators established themselves there for nearly three months1 building huts of boughs all round the temple1 making almost a city1 which they christened ,francopolis4 ,they had frequently from fifty to eighty men at work at a time1 a band of ,arcadian music to entertain them1 and in the evening after work1 while the lamb was roasting on a wooden spit1 they danced4 ,however1 if ,cockerell lost the pleasure1 he escaped the fever from which they all suffered desperately--and no wonder1 after living such a life in such a climate4 ,it was during this expedition that a misfortune befell ,bronstedt which1 although it had an element of absurdity in it1 was very serious to the victim4 ,while the work at ,bass was proceeding he left his companions to take a trip into ,maina4 ,before starting he wrote for himself a letter of introduction to ,captain ,murzinos purporting to be from my father1 and would have presented it2 but1 as ill-luck would have it1 on the #bjth of ,august1 on the road between ,sparta and ,kalamata1 he fell into the hands of a band of eight robbers4 ,understanding them to be ,mainiotes1 and supposing all ,mainiotes to be friends1 he tried to save his property by saying that he had a letter with him to ,captain ,murzinos2 but the robbers replied3 ,oh1 have you8 ,if we had ,murzinos here we would play him twice the pranks we are playing you1 and spared nothing4 ,they decamped with his money1 his watch1 his rings1 a collection of antique coins1 all that he had in their eyes worth taking1 to the tune1 as he considered1 of #hjjl4 7#aa1jjj piastres fortes d',espagne71 leaving him disconsolate in the dark to collect his scattered manuscripts1 which they had rejected with the contemptuous words3 ,greek3 ,kartasia einai4 ,den ta stochasomen 7,papers6 we don't look at them47 ,in the darkness and confusion after the departure of the robbers he managed to lose some of these as well4 ,the poor traveller returned quite forlorn to ,phigaleia4 ,after this1 ,linckh writes in his delicious ,french3 ,bronstedt parcourt la ,more en longue et travers pour cherger ses hardes pertus par les voleurs4 ,le drle de corps a beaucoup d'esprance1 parce que le consul ,paul lui a recommend fortement au nouveau ,pascha dans une letter qui a ett enveloppe en vilours rouge4 ,such a letter1 bound in red velvet1 was esteemed particularly urgent1 but he obtained no redress whatever1 nor ever saw again any of ses hardes1 except the ring which had been given him by his fiance1 ,koes' sister4 ,this was recovered for him by ,stackelberg on a journey which he took through ,maina1 when he saw it exposed for sale in the house of one of the captains or chieftains of the country1 together with the watch1 purse1 and several other articles which had been ,bronstedt's2 but the prices asked were too exorbitant for him to ransom any but this1 which he knew the late owner had highly prized4 ,the piece of sculpture ,i have just mentioned1 which the explorers of ,phigaleia failed to bring away1 was the capital of the single ,corinthian column of the interior of the temple4 ,it will be remembered by those who have read my father's work on the subject1 that all the columns of the interior were of the ,ionic order with one exception1 which was ,corinthian1 and which stood in the centre of one end of the cella4 ,the capital of this ,corinthian column was of the very finest workmanship2 and although the volutes had been broken off1 much of it was still well preserved1 and the party of excavators took it with them to the coast for embarcation with the rest4 ,there are figures of it by ,stackelberg in his book1 and by ,foster in a drawing in the ,phigaleian ,room of the ,british ,museum4 ,veli ,pasha1 the ,governor of the ,morea1 had sanctioned the explorations on the understanding that he should have half profits2 but when he had seen the sculptures he was so disappointed that they were not gold or silver1 and so little understood them1 that he took the warriors under shields for tortoises1 allowing that as such they were rather well done4 ,it chanced that at this moment news reached him that he had been superseded in his command1 and not thinking much of them1 and eager to get what he could1 he accepted #djjl4 as his share of the spoil and sanctioned the exportation of the marbles4 ,the local archons1 however1 put every impediment they could in the way by fomenting a strike among the porters which caused delays1 and by giving information to the incoming pasha1 who sent down troops to stop the embarcation4 ,everything had been loaded except the capital in question1 which was more ponderous than the rest1 and was still standing half in and half out of the water when the troops came up4 ,the boat had to put off without it1 and the travellers had the mortification of seeing it hacked to pieces by the ,turks in their fury at having been foiled4 ,the volute of one of the ,ionic columns presented by my father to the ,british ,museum is the only fragment of any of the interior capitals of the temple remaining4 ,he brought it away with him on his1 the first1 visit4 ,to return to where ,i left my father before this digression4 ,as ,i said1 after the sale of the gina ,marbles1 ,haller and he came to ,athens1 where1 finding the summer very hot in the town1 they went to live at ,padischa or ,sadischa1 not far outside the town1 and set earnestly to work upon the drawings for the book on gina and ,phigaleia4 ,all went on quietly till on the #bbnd of ,august ,cockerell was attacked by a malignant bilious fever1 which brought him to death's door3 at least1 either the illness or the remedies did4 ,the doctor1 ,abraham1 the first in ,athens1 thought it must be yellow fever1 gave him up1 and fearing infection for himself1 refused to attend him after the first few days4 ,it was even whispered that it might be the plague1 for the enormous swelling of the glands was not unlike it4 ,but ,haller would listen to no counsels of despair1 and refused to leave his friend4 ,the kind ,madame ,masson1 too1 the aunt of the ,misses ,makri1 came out from ,athens1 and the two nursed him with ceaseless devotion4 ,haller never left his bedside1 night or day1 for the first month4 ,the vice-consul1 hearing that the sufferer was as good as dead1 came to take away his keys and put seals upon his property1 and was only prevented by ,haller by main force4 ,the same faithful friend compelled the doctor to do his duty4 ,the first having deserted his patient1 a second was called in and kept attentive by threats and persuasion4 ,the methods of medicine were inconceivably barbarous4 ,bleeding was the great remedy in fever1 and calomel the alternative4 ,when the patient had been brought by this treatment so low that his heart was thought to have stopped1 live pigeons were cut in half and the reeking portions applied to his breast to restore the vital heat4 ,medicine failing1 spells were believed in4 ,madame ,masson1 though described as one of the first personages in ,athens1 could neither read nor write1 and was grossly ignorant4 ,she had a great faith in spells2 and ,haller1 fearing that in the feeble condition of the patient she might commit some folly1 kept a strict watch upon her4 ,one day1 however1 in his absence1 when my father was suffering agonies from his glands1 she took the opportunity to tie round his neck a charm of particular potency4 ,it was a little bag containing some resin1 some pitch1 a lock of hair1 and two papers1 each inscribed with the figure of a pyramid and other symbols drawn with a pen4 ,they even got so far as to speak of his burial1 and it was settled that it should be in the ,theseum1 where one ,tweddle1 an ,englishman1 and other foreigners had been interred1 and where ,haller himself was laid not many years after4 ,the churches were kept lighted night and day for his benefit1 and his nurse attributed his final recovery entirely to the intercession of ,panagia ,castriotissa1 or ,our ,lady of the ,acropolis4 ,at length1 after long hovering between life and death1 his robust constitution carried him through1 and towards the end of ,september the doctor advised his being removed to ,athens4 ,he was carried thither in a litter and set down at ,madame ,masson's1 where he was henceforth to live4 ,before this episode was fairly concluded or my father had progressed far in convalescence1 a new cause of agitation arose4 ,notice was received that ,baron ,stackelberg was in the hands of pirates4 ,he had been for a tour in ,asia ,minor1 and was on his way back between ,constantinople and ,athens1 when in crossing the ,gulf of ,volo he was taken4 ,his case was even more deplorable than ,bronstedt's1 for he not only lost whatever he had with him1 and saw his drawings torn to pieces in sheer malice before his very eyes1 but the miscreants claimed an enormous ransom1 amounting to about #c1jjjl41 and sent a notice to his friends in ,athens to the effect that the money must be forwarded promptly or portions of the prisoner would be sent as reminders4 ,meanwhile he had to live with the pirates1 and his experiences were no laughing matter4 ,the ruffians used to show him hideous instruments of torture to frighten him into paying a higher ransom4 ,they made him sleep in the open air1 which half killed him with fever2 and as they had nowhere to keep him when they went on their marauding expeditions1 he had to go with them4 ,on one occasion he saw a vessel run aground to avoid capture1 and the sailors clamber up the rocks to escape4 ,an old man who could not follow fast enough was brought in to be sold as a slave4 ,the rest got away1 and one of the pirates1 in his fury at being eluded1 in order to slake his thirst for blood seized on a wretched goat that was grazing by him and cut its throat4 ,several weeks of this sort of company and exposure left poor ,stackelberg more dead than alive4 ,his rescue1 which was managed with great diplomacy and a splendid disregard for his own safety by ,baron ,haller1 was finally effected at a cost of about #ejjl4 ,a ,mr4 ,hughes1 in company with ,mr4 ,parker1 whom he was bearleading1 arrived in ,athens when my father was recovering2 and about the last week of ,november1 at their invitation1 tempted by the opportunity of travelling with a ,tartar and a buyulurdi--that is to say1 in security and with as little discomfort as possible--he consented to join in a tour to ,albania4 ,i shall not give a detailed account of this voyage4 ,it was over ground everyone has read about4 ,it resulted in no discoveries and few adventures1 and anyone who is curious about it will find it fully described in ,hughes's book4 ,general ,davies1 quartermaster-general to the ,british forces in the ,mediterranean1 was to form one of the party4 ,we set out from ,athens on ,november #bith1 a large cavalcade4 ,two of my friends1 though they had not yet learnt that to travel in these countries one must sacrifice a little personal comfort1 were otherwise agreeable companions1 gentlemanlike and goodhumoured2 but ,i early began to foresee trouble with the ,general4 ,he was one of those people who think everyone who cannot speak ,english must be either an assassin or a rogue1 and was more unreasonable1 unjust1 and unaccommodating than any ,englishman ,i ever met1 odious as many of them make themselves abroad4 ,it rained heavily1 but everyone tried to be gay except the general1 who damned gloomily1 right and left4 ,we went over an interesting country1 but as it was all in the clouds we enjoyed the scenery neither of ,parnes nor of ,phyl4 ,our way was beguiled by the singing of some of the party4 ,the ,tartar especially gave proofs of a good voice1 a very desirable quality in a ,greek companion4 ,the recollection of the scenery of any part of ,greece or ,asia ,minor is bound up with that of the cheerful roundelays of the guides as one rides through the mountains1 or the soft melodious song of the ,anatolian plains4 ,it is the characteristic thing of ,eastern travel4 ,after about three hours in the clouds we got down into ,boeotia and saw below us a splendid country of mountain1 plain1 and sea4 ,our ,tartar had gone on before us to ,thebes1 so that when we arrived at our conachi 7lodging7 it was all ready for us4 ,it was as well1 for the weather had given ,hughes a return of his fever1 and he had to lie in bed4 ,parker and ,i rode next morning without the others to ,plata4 ,it has an admirable situation1 and its walls are in better preservation and more interesting and venerable than any ,i have seen yet4 ,we could find nothing interesting at ,thebes1 so as soon as ,hughes was better we all set out for ,livadia4 ,as we were passing through the hills that separate the respective plains of these two towns a pleasant coincidence occurred4 ,we fell in with an ,english traveller1 a ,mr4 ,yonge1 who was a friend of ,hughes1 and was bearing a letter of introduction to me4 ,after greetings and compliments he gave us the latest ,european news1 viz4 of the grand defeat of the ,french at ,leipsic4 ,glorious news indeed6 ,hughes being laid up again at ,livadia and the ,general impracticable1 ,parker and ,i made excursions thence to the ,cave of ,trophonius1 ,orchomenus1 and ,topolias1 the point from which one visits the five emissaries of the ,lake ,copais4 ,these last struck me as perhaps the most astonishing work of antiquity known to me4 ,two are still running1 but the first1 third1 and fifth are quite dry4 ,at the entrances the mountain has been cut to a face of thirty or forty feet high at the mouth and not a tool-mark visible1 so they look like the work of nature4 ,i wanted to go to the other side of the ridge to see the exits1 but our guide assured me that it was too dangerous1 because of the pirates who lie in the mountain in the daytime and would probably catch us4 ,poor ,stackelberg's misfortune was too recent a warning to be neglected1 so ,i gave it up4 ,all this country1 broadly speaking1 is quite uncultivated1 and inhabited by immense herds attended by whole families living in huts and wandering1 according to the pasture and season1 in parties of perhaps twenty with horses and mules4 ,they are not ,turcomans1 such as ,i saw in ,asia1 but are called ,vlaki and speak ,greek4 ,one can imagine nothing more picturesque than they are and the mountains they live in4 ,our quarters during our three nights out had been of the roughest1 and when ,parker and ,i got back to ,livadia our whole evening was spent in the bath1 ridding ourselves of the fleas and dirt we had been living in4 ,hughes was found to be better1 and the ,general 7thank goodness67 tired out and gone off to ,salona4 ,he was an odious individual--got drunk every day of our absence--and we were well rid of him4 ,we had brought with us from ,athens letters of introduction to the principal ,greek merchants1 primates of ,livadia1 ,messrs4 ,logotheti4 ,on the first day of our arrival they had come very civilly to call upon us4 ,now that we were back from our excursion we returned the visit4 ,the ,greeks appear to possess great wealth and influence here1 whereas the ,turks are but few in the place1 and those there are speak ,greek and to some extent have ,greek manners4 ,when we came into the ,logothetis' house we found some actually arguing a point--a thing not to be thought of among ,turks elsewhere3 the affectation of pride among ,orientals1 so stupefying to themselves and so exasperating to others1 would forbid it4 ,when we came in they rose to go1 leaving ,signor ,nicola to attend to his foreign guests4 ,our host gave us a striking instance of the devices used by well-to-do ,greeks to conceal their wealth from the rapacious ,government4 ,he at once led us out of the room he had received us in at the head of the first landing1 which was reserved for the reception of ,turks and was very simple1 into his own apartments1 which were exceedingly splendid4 ,there in one corner of the room was the beautiful ,logothetina1 wife of a ,logotheti nephew1 in bed4 ,her father went up to her when he came in and she kissed his hand4 ,one might have thought her being in bed embarrassing1 but not at all2 we all sat down and stopped with them for an hour4 ,no one either said or did much1 for those who talked had little to say1 and many said nothing4 ,when ,logotheti went home we accompanied him1 and very grand he was1 with a large stick in his hand and five or six persons escorting him--quite in the splendid style of the ancient ,greeks4 ,it so happened that in the morning while on a visit to the bey1 or waiwode1 we heard the reading of a firman bringing the news of the taking of ,belgrade by the ,turks4 ,during the reading the primates all stood up1 and when it was concluded all exclaimed3 ',thanks to ,god for this success6 ,may our ,sultan live6' ,in the evening we went to dine with ,logotheti4 ,there were a ,corfiote doctor and several other ,greeks4 ,our talk was of their hopes of emancipation1 as it always is when one is in company with ,greeks1 with the inevitable references to ,leonidas and the ,hellenes4 ,our hosts and the other ,greeks struck me as heavier and more ,boeotian in appearance than the ,greeks ,i was accustomed to1 but also more polished4 ,the ,corfiote1 of course1 was talkative and ignorant3 they always are4 ,we ate an immense quantity of turkeys--roast1 boiled1 hashed and again roasted--fowls and all sorts of poultry dressed in all sorts of ways1 and we drank a great deal of bad wine in toasts to ,king ,george1 success to the ,greeks1 c4 ,as soon as ,hughes could move we went on from ,livadia by ,chronea to ,castri1#dc the ancient ,delphi4 ,until within the last few years the region we were now in was impassable owing to robbers1 but ,ali ,pasha's tyranny has at any rate the merit of an excellent zabete or police1 so that it is now fairly safe4 ,the scenery among the mountains is splendid4 ,our visit to ,castri was not a long one4 ,except the ,castalian spring and the stadium1 one could make out nothing of the ancient topography4 ,the whole site is covered with walls running in every sort of direction1 possibly to keep the earth from slipping down the hill4 ,in the evening we got to ,crisso4 ,a buyulurdi such as we carried confers the most arbitrary rights2 but it was not until the protocaro had been cudgelled by our ,tartar that we were able to procure a lodging1 a tolerably good one1 in the house of the papa4 ,i reflected how wretched is the position of the ,greeks1 and how ungenerous of us ,englishmen to live at their expense and assist in the general oppression2 but ,i was too pleased to get a lodging for the night to act upon it4 ,from ,crisso we went to ,salona1 and here it became necessary to settle upon our further route4 ,when we came to look into it1 it appeared that the plague is raging in every town on our way by ,nepacto and ,missalonghi through tolia4 ,moreover1 the roads are rough and infested by robbers1 the horses bad1 and in fact the best way to get to ,albania seemed to be to go by sea4 ,this was settled upon accordingly1 and we started to do it4 ,from ,salona to the port is a two hours' ride4 ,thence we set sail in a felucca4 ,the sea was running very high1 the wind was in our teeth1 and though we got to ,galaxidi at last1 it was not without considerable peril4 ,i have had a good many adventures1 but ,i do not think ,i was ever in greater danger than during those four hours of sailing in that weather in the dark1 and ,i thanked ,god heartily when ,i found myself ashore4 ,the only lodging we could get was in the guard-house1 a filthy magazine so alive with bugs that after a first failure ,i gave up all idea of going to sleep1 and sat up with ,parker smoking till morning4 ,it was out of the question going to look for other quarters4 ,the country is so infested with robbers1 who think nothing even of penetrating into the town and carrying off a primate or so1 that arriving late and knocking at doors we should have been taken for brigands and answered by pistol shots from the windows4 ,in the morning our buyulurdi stood us in good stead4 ,with its help we were able to get some good fowls and a sheep1 bread and rice4 ,then going to the shore we made a bargain to be taken to ,previsa in a boat4 ,the voyage was fairly prosperous4 ,the second day we landed at ,patras1 and heard the news of the grand defeat of the ,french confirmed4 ,we set out again at night and got becalmed1 and with difficulty reached a small port1 the ,scrof1 beyond the flat at the mouth of the ,achelous4 ,here was a scampa-via from ,santa ,maura1 and other boats1 and we entered with some trepidation lest we should be taken for pirates and fired upon4 ,here we were detained several days by stormy weather4 ,getting away we passed the mouth of the ,achelous1 and tried to find either of two excellent ports1 ,petala and ,dragonise2 but as they were not marked in our bad charts we failed1 and were finally obliged to put into a creek not far from ,santa ,maura1 and lay there the greater part of the night1 till the wind blew us off again to sea4 ,at daylight we anchored in the shallow port of ,santa ,maura4 ,the weather again detained us some days1 till we with some difficulty got across to ,previsa4 ,here the harbour is a fine one1 but too shallow to admit large vessels1 and with an awkward bar4 ,the shore is all desolation and misery1 with one exception1 the palace of the vizier1 which is splendid4 ,the foundations on the side towards the sea are all of stones from ,actium and the neighbouring ,san ,pietro1 the ancient ,nicopolis4 ,in ,venetian days ,previsa had no fortifications4 ,now the pasha has made it quite a strong place1 with several forts and a deep ditch across the isthmus1 though the cannon1 to be sure--which are old ,english ones of all sorts and sizes--are in the worst possible order1 their carriages ill-designed1 and now rotten as well4 ,the population has fallen from #af1jjj1 to #e1jjj at the outside1 mostly ,turks4 ,we went of course to ,nicopolis4 ,the ruins are most interesting4 ,there are the theatre1 the baths1 the odeum1 and the walls of the city1 all in fair preservation and most instructive3 the latter especially1 as an example of ancient fortification4 ,an aqueduct1 which is immensely high1 brought water from nine hours off4 ,we went from ,previsa1 in a scampa-via belonging to the vizier1 to ,salona1 the port for ,arta4 ,it consists of only two houses1 the ,customs house and the serai of the vizier4 ,in the latter we got lodgings for the night1 and bespoke some returning caravan horses to carry us to ,arta4 ,the road1 #be feet wide1 is one which has been lately made for the vizier by a wretched ,cephaloniote engineer across otherwise impassable flats4 ,it is not finished yet2 #hjj to #a1jjj men are still at work upon it4 ,there is no doubt that this road and the canal from ,arta to ,previsa1 as well as the destruction of the ,suliotes1 who made this part of the world impassable to travellers without a large escort1 are public benefits to be put to ,ali ,pasha's credit4 ,arta is a flourishing place under the special eye of the vizier4 ,the bazaar is considerable1 and there is every sign of industry4 ,we left it about midday4 ,the ice was thick on the pools and the road hard with frost4 ,passing the bridge1 we got again on to the vizier's new road4 ,the ,cephaloniote superintendent1 who was very desirous that we should express to the vizier great admiration for the work1 was assiduous in doing the honours of it4 ,after various stoppages1 at last1 at seven o'clock1 nearly frozen1 we reached the khan of ,five ,wells4 ,a rousing fire we made to warm ourselves by was no use1 for it smoked so intolerably that it drove us out again to walk about in the cold till the room was clear4 ,our only distraction was a ,tartar we fell in with who had lately been to ,constantinople by land1 and his account of the journey is enough to make one shudder4 ,he passed through no less than nineteen vilayets1 or towns1 in which the plague was raging4 ,at ,adrianople the smell of the dead was so great that his companion fell ill4 ,at the next place he asked at the post if there was any pest4 ',a great deal1 ,god be praised1' was the reply4 ,at another town1 in answer to inquiries he was told 'half the town is dead or fled1 but ,god is great4' ,what a miserable country6 ,next day1 riding along a paved way1 we got to ,janina or ,joannina1 the capital of ,ali ,pasha4 ,the first coup d'oeil of the great town and the lake is certainly impressive1 but not so much so as ,i had expected4 ,once inside the town the thing that struck me most was the splendid dress of all ranks and the shabby appearance we ,franks presented4 ,we made for the house of our minister1 ,george ,foresti1 with whom we dined1 and there met ,colonel ,church1 just arrived from ,durazzo4 ,,footnotes3 #db ,grandfather of the present ,lord ,leigh4 #dc ,by a convention with the ,greek ,government made in #ahia1 the ,french ,government obtained power to buy out the inhabitants of ,castri and remove the village in order to excavate the site4 ,the ancient topography is now well ascertained4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,ali ,,pasha--,,psallida--,,euphrosyne--,,muk htar--,,starts ,,for ,a ,,trip ,,to ,,suli--,,cassiopeia--,,unable ,,to ,,ford ,,river--,,turns ,,back ,,to ,,janina--,,leaves ,,to ,,return ,,to ,,athens--,,crosses ,,the ,,pindus ,,through ,,the ,,snow--,,malakash--,a ,,robber--,,meteora--,,turkish ,,rule--,,the ,,monastery--,,by ,,trikhala1 ,,phersala1 ,,zituni1 ,,thermopyl ,,and ,,livadia ,,to ,,athens4 ,next day1 as the vizier wished to see us1 and we of course to see him1 ,foresti took us to the palace he was living in for the moment4 ,he has no less than eight in the town4 ,this one is handsome1 but the plan is as usual ill-contrived1 and there was much less magnificence than ,i had expected4 ,we were first led into the upper apartments to await his leisure1 and found there a number of fine youths1 not very splendidly dressed4 ,after half an hour of waiting we were led into a low room1 in the corner of which sat this extraordinary man4 ,he welcomed us politely and said he hoped we had had a good journey and would like ,janina1 and desired that if there was anything we lacked we would mention it1 for that he regarded us as his children1 and his house and family were at our disposal4 ,he next asked if any of us spoke ,greek2 and hearing that ,i did1 asked me when ,i had learnt it1 and how long ,i had remained in ,athens4 ,then1 observing that ,hughes was near the fire1 he ordered in a screen in the shape of a large vessel of water1 saying that young men did not require fire1 only old men2 and in saying this he laughed with so much bonhomie1 his manner was so mild and paternal and so charming in its air of kindness and perfect openness1 that ,i1 remembering the blood-curdling stories told of him1 could hardly believe my eyes4 ,finally1 he said he hoped to improve our acquaintance1 and begged us to stay on4 ,we1 however1 bowed ourselves out4 ,the number and richness of the shops is surprising1 and the bustle of business is such as ,i have not seen since leaving ,constantinople4 ,we understood that when the vizier first settled at ,janina in '#hg--that is1 twenty-seven years ago--there were but five or six shops in the place3 now there are more than #b1jjj4 ,the city has immensely increased1 and we passed through several quarters of the town which are entirely new4 ,the fortresses on the promontory into the lake are of the vizier's building4 ,he has always an establishment of #c1jjj soldiers1 #ajj ,tartars 7the ,sultan himself has but #bjj71 a park of artillery presented him by the ,english1 and ,german and other ,french artillerymen4 ,we seem to have supplied him also with arms and ammunition in his wars with ,suli and other parts of ,epirus4 ,perhaps it is not much to our honour to have assisted a tyrant in dispossessing or exterminating the lawful owners of the soil1 who only fought for their own liberty2 but one must remember that1 picturesque as they were and desperately as they fought1 they were nothing but robbers and freebooters and the scourge of the country4 ,we passed the #fth of ,january with ,psallida1 who is master of a school in ,janina4 ,he is1 for this country1 a learned man4 ,besides ,greek1 he speaks ,latin and very bad ,italian1 but as far as manners go he is a mere barbarian4 ,from him ,i had an account of the ,gardiki massacre4#dd ,i occupied a wet three days in drawing an interior view of a kiosk of the vizier's at the ,beshkey ,gardens at the north end of the town4 ,then ,i got a costume and drew the figures in4 ,psallida dined with us one day and entertained us with an account of the fair and frail ,euphrosyne1 who was a celebrity here4 ,her fate was made the subject of a ballad preserved in ,leslie4 ,the story is certainly an awful tragedy4 ,she was of good family and married to a respectable man4 ,without possessing more education than is usual with ,greek ladies she had1 besides her great beauty1 a natural wit which1 with a good deal of love of admiration1 soon attracted round her a host of admirers1 and she became a reigning beauty4 ,mukhtar1 the son of ,ali1 who is a dissolute fellow1 was attracted by her1 and1 cutting out his competitors1 became her acknowledged lover4 ,his wife1 whom he entirely neglected for his new passion1 was a daughter of the ,vizier of ,berat1 whose friendship ,ali was at that time particularly anxious to cultivate2 and when she complained to her father-in-law of his son's conduct1 he 7,ali7 determined to put a stop to it4 ,at the head of his guard he burst at midnight into the room of ,euphrosyne1 and after calling her the seducer of his son and other names1 he forced her to give up whatever presents he had made her1 and had her led off to prison with her maid4 ,next day1 in order to make a terrifying example to check the immorality of the town in general and his son in especial1 he had nine other women of known bad character arrested1 and they and ,euphrosyne were led to the brink of the precipice over the lake on which the fortress stands4 ,her faithful maid refused to desert her1 and she and ,euphrosyne1 linked in each other's arms1 leapt together down the fatal rock1 as did all the others4 ,mukhtar has never forgotten his attachment or forgiven his father1 or even seen his wife again1 and from having been a gay and frank youth he has become gloomy and ferocious without being less dissolute than before4 ,the court he keeps is a sad blackguard affair1 a great contrast to the austere sobriety of his father's4 ,we called in the evening 7,january #ad7 to take leave of ,ali ,pasha4 ,he was on that day in the ,palace of the ,fortress at the extremity of the rock over the lake4 ,we passed through the long gallery described by ,byron1 and into a low anteroom1 from which we entered a very handsome apartment1 very warm with a large fire in it1 and with crimson sofas trimmed with gold lace4 ,there was ,ali1 to-day a truly ,oriental figure4 ,he had a velvet cap1 a prodigious fine cloak2 he was smoking a long ,persian pipe1 and held a book in his hand4 ,foresti says he did this on purpose to show us he could read4 ,hanging beside him was a small gun magnificently set with diamonds1 and a powder-horn2 on his right hand also was a feather fan4 ,to his left was a window looking into the courtyard1 in which they were playing at the djerid1 and in which nine horses stood tethered in their saddles and bridles1 as though ready for instant use4 ,i am told this is a piece of form or etiquette4 ,at first his reception seemed less cordial than before1 whether by design or no1 and he took very little notice of us4 ,he showed us some leaden pieces of money1 and a ,spanish coin just found by some country people1 and asked us what they were4 ,then he said he wished he had a coat of beaver such as he had seen on the ,danube4 ,he asked ,parker whether he had a mother and brothers1 and when he heard he was the only son he said it was a sin that he should leave his mother4 ,why did not he stay at home8 ,on ,january #ae we went to call on ,mukhtar ,pasha4 ,we found him rough1 open1 and goodhumoured1 without any of the inimitable grace of his father1 which makes everything ,ali says agreeable1 however trivial the subject may be4 ,mukhtar's talk was flat4 ,he was very fond of sport--were we8 ,it was very hot in summer at ,trikhala4 ,he had killed so and so many birds2 there were loose women at ,dramishush2 it was a small place1 but he would send a man to see that we were properly accommodated2 and so on--very civil and rather dull4 ,he smoked a ,persian pipe brought him by a beautiful boy very richly dressed1 with his hair carefully combed1 and another brought him coffee2 while coffee and pipes were brought to us by particularly ugly ones4 ,on the sofa beside him were laid out a number of snuff-boxes1 mechanical singing birds1 and things of that sort4 ,the serai itself was handsome in point of expense1 but in the miserable taste now in vogue in ,constantinople4 ,the decoration represented painted battle-pieces1 sieges1 fights between ,turks and ,cossacks1 wild men1 and abominations of that sort2 while in the centre of the pediment is a pasha surrounded by his guard1 and in front of them a couple of ,greeks just hanged1 as a suitable ornament for the palace of a despot4 ,on the #afth we set out early for an excursion to ,cassiopeia and ,suli1 across the fine open field behind ,janina1 past the village of ,kapshisda1 over a low chain of hills south-west of ,janina4 ,then1 after a climb of over an hour1 we entered a pass1 and presently saw ,dramishush in front1 on the side of a high mountain4 ,cassiopeia is on a gentle height in the middle of a valley4 ,the situation is beautiful1 and the theatre the largest and best preserved ,i have seen in ,greece4 ,next morning we dismissed ,mukhtar ,pasha's man who had escorted us so far1 and went on south-westwards along the edge of the valley of ,cassiopeia4 ,as it grew narrower we climbed a ridge which overhung an awful depth1 went over a high mountain1 and reached ,bareatis1 a small village in a pass with a serai of ,ali ,pasha's1 in which he lived for a length of time during the war of ,suli4 ,three and a half hours further on we came to ,terbisena1 the first village of ,suli4 ,it had been pouring all day1 and we were not only wet and cold when we arrived but the hovel we got as a lodging let in the water everywhere1 and here1 huddled in the driest corner we could find1 we had to sleep and spend the next day4 ,on the #aith the weather was fine again1 and we went on hoping to find the river fordable1 but when we got to the bank we found it rapid and deep4 ,one of our ,turks1 after a good deal of boasting1 plunged in1 and in an instant sank1 and the torrent was carrying him and his horse floundering away4 ,another of his brother ,turks1 seeing him carried down1 called loudly on ,allah1 and stroked his beard in great tribulation1 but without stirring a stump4 ,in another minute the man would have been drowned1 but our servant ,antonetti1 who was but a ,christian1 very pluckily ran in and clawed him out4 ,the poor boaster was already senseless when we got him to land4 ,we took him back to ,dervishina1 and gradually brought him round1 when instead of thanking his stars for his narrow escape1 or ,antonetti for the plucky part he had played1 he did nothing but lament the loss of his gun1 ',tofeki1' which he had himself won1 he said1 and of his shawl which had cost him #ej piastres4 ,we promised to make the latter good1 and left him to rest4 ,the whole incident was in all senses a damper to our ardour4 ,when we considered that to pass this river we must wait one day at least1 and probably four days to get across the one near ,suli1 the expenditure of time seemed to us all1 at least so ,i thought1 greater than we cared to devote to the expedition4 ,so the long and short of it was that we turned back and slept at ,bareatis4 ,next day we got back to ,janina4 ,i made up my mind now that ,i was wasting time over this trip1 and wished to get back to ,athens4 ,but before leaving ,i thought it my duty to call once more on ,ali ,pasha4 ,a most agreeable old man he is4 ,i was more than ever struck with the easy familiarity and perfect good humour of his manners4 ,we found him in a low apartment with a fire in the middle1 generally used for his ,albanians and known as laapoda4 ,then we went to see ,pouqueville1#de the ,french resident4 ,we found him with his brother1 both of them the worst type of ,frenchmen--vulgar1 bragging1 genuine children of the ,revolution4 ,nothing worth remembering was said1 but ,i did gather this from his tone--that the ,empire in ,france is not likely to last4 ,on the #bfth my friends1 for a wonder1 got up early1 and we all set out in a boat for a small village where we were to find my horses4 ,there we bid farewell and ,i mounted4 ,it came on to rain1 and ,i arrived1 wet through1 at the ,three ,khans to sleep4 ,next day the rain became snow1 but ,i set out nevertheless for ,mezzovo4 ,we had to ford the river several times1 and for the last hour to ,mezzovo were up to our middles in snow4 ,the scenery was magnificent1 and the country is well cultivated4 ,mezzovo is a ,vlaki or ,wallachian village2 the people speak a sort of mixed ,greek4 ,they are exceedingly industrious and well-to-do4 ,artistically ,i do not know that ,i have gained much1 but ,i do not regret the time ,i have spent in ,albania4 ,the climate is more bracing than that of the rest of ,greece1 and has set me up after my illness4 ,the scenery1 though it cannot be at its best in winter1 is most beautiful1 and the inhabitants are a fine race--not handsome1 but hardy and energetic4 ,an ,albanian has very few wants4 ,a little bread of calambochi or ,indian corn1 an onion1 and cheese is abundant fare to him4 ,if he changes his linen five times in the year1 that is the outside4 ,a knife and a pistol in his girdle and his gun by his side1 he sleeps quite well in the open air with his head on a stone and the lappel of his jacket over his face4 ,in summer and winter he wears a fez4 ,his boots are only goatskin sandals1 which he makes himself4 ,his activity in them over rocks is surprising4 ,as for ,ali ,pasha's government1 one has to remember what a chaotic state the country was in before he made himself master of it4 ,the accounts one gets from the elders make it clear what misery there was4 ,no stranger could travel in it1 nor could the inhabitants themselves get about4 ,every valley was at war with its neighbour1 and all were professional brigands4 ,all this ,ali has reduced to order4 ,there is law--for everyone admits his impartiality as compared with that of rulers in other parts of ,turkey--and there is commerce4 ,he has made roads1 fortified the borders1 put down brigandage1 and raised ,albania into a power of some importance in ,europe4 ,that in arriving at this end he has often used means which civilised nations disapprove is no doubt true1 but there has been in the first place gross exaggeration as to the crimes attributed to him3 for instance1 that he sees fifteen or twenty heads cut off every day before breakfast1 whereas in point of fact there has not been such a thing as a public execution in the past year2 and then1 in the second1 one must make allowance for the ferocious manners amongst which he was brought up4 ,on the #bith of ,january1 as the weather seemed favourable1 we set out eagerly to cross ,pindus4 ,the snow was deep in places1 but for the first hour and a half we had no great difficulty4 ,it was the last half-hour before getting to the top that was worst4 ,the road is desperately steep up a precipice1 and the snow was above the horses' girths4 ,our chamalides1 however1 waded through it1 often up to their middles1 and1 carrying the loads on their own shoulders1 lifted the horses by their tails and heads alternately1 ,i hardly know how4 ,although ,i constantly slipped down on the steep incline1 ,i was so eager to see the view that ,i was the first at the top4 ,towards the interior it was glorious3 the feet of ,pindus rooting themselves far into the country1 which1 although mountainous1 was free from snow2 conspicuous was ,elymbo 7,olympus71 the top capped with snow1 but the form of it is not beautiful4 ,to the north were other snow-capped mountains4 ,behind us westward the air was so thick one could see nothing4 ,the west side of the hills is covered with fir1 while the east seems to have nothing but oak and birch--quantities of it1 but all small trees4 ,as we went down we noticed on the trunks of them the marks of the snow of the year before last1 which must have been ten or twelve feet deep4 ,three and a half hours from our start we got to a khan1 where we made a good fire and congratulated ourselves on having got over the hills so well and escaped the fatana--the wind the mountaineers dread4 ,our next stage was to ,malakash1 a ,vlaki town4 ,it was astonishing the way our chamalides bore the fatigue of forcing our way through the snow1 which was still five or six feet deep in places4 ,they cut a way for the horses1 which were constantly falling down and half smothering themselves in the drifts4 ,from there we followed the course of the river for six hours1 and crossed it fifty times at least4 ,on the way we passed a dervish1 an ,albanian4 ,he was seated on a sort of balcony1 very high up1 and had a gun in his hand1 which he pointed at me and called on me to stop and pay4 ,the sight of the ,tartar1 however1 brought him to reason4 ,without one a traveller is exposed to great insult from such ruffians4 ,as it was1 a poor wretch who tried to pass himself off as one of our party was forced to stop and pay his quota4 ,in the afternoon we arrived at ,meteora1 the strange rocks of which we had seen from some distance up the river4 ,we were given quarters in the house of a ,cypriote ,greek1 from whom ,i learnt a good deal of the terrible exactions of ,veli ,pasha1 in whose dominions we now were4 ,our host and his two sons1 poor wretches with hardly a fez to their heads and mere sandals bound with a thong to their feet1 came to welcome us4 ,after the first compliments they fell into the tale of their woes4 ,their taxes were so heavy that unless the new year were abundantly fruitful the village must be bankrupt and become 'chiflik' or forfeit4 ,when a village is unable to pay its taxes1 the vizier1 as universal mortgagee1 forecloses and the land becomes his private property and the villagers his slaves4 ,this is becoming 'chiflik4' ,while we were sitting and talking of these troubles a great noise was heard below4 ,two ,albanians1 being refused conachi1 had broken in the door of a house and entered by force1 and the soubashi was gone out to quell the riot4 ,he very properly refused them any kind of reception and drove them out to the khan4 ,my hosts had roasted me a fowl1 but my heart was so full ,i could scarcely eat4 ,how long will it please ,god to afflict these wretched people with such monstrous tyranny8 ,besides the exactions of the ,government1 scoundrels such as these ,albanians infest the villages1 force their way in houses and eat and drink immoderately and pay nothing4 ,to ease my mind1 when the daughter of my host brought me some raisins to eat with my wine ,i gave her a dollar4 ,she seemed hardly to believe her eyes at first1 then took it and kissed my hand4 ,next morning1 ,january #cast1 ,i ascended to the principal monastery of ,meteora4 ,after a tiring walk of half an hour1 winding among the crags of this strange place1 we came to the foot of the rock on which it is perched1 and found that the ladder commonly used1 which is made in joints five or six feet long1 had been drawn up4 ,we called to the papades who were aloft to let down the rope and net4 ,after some hallooing1 down it came1 a circular net with the meshes round the circumference gathered on a hook4 ,michael and myself1 with my drawing materials1 got in and were drawn up by a windlass4 ,to swing in mid-air trusting to a rope not so thick as my wrist and #abd feet long 7,i measured it7 is anything but pleasant4 ,i shall not forget my sensations as ,i looked out through the meshes of the net as we were spinning round in the ascent4 ,there was a horrible void below--sheer precipices on each side1 and then the slipping of the rope as it crossed on the windlass4 ,once up1 we were pulled in at the entrance1 the hook drawn out1 and we were set at liberty4 ,the company that received us were some wretched papades1 as ignorant as possible4 ,they could tell me next to nothing about their monastery1 except that on the occasion of an invasion of the ,turks1 a bey of ,trikhala1 one ,joseph ,ducas1 had retired hither and established it and seventeen others4 ,the buildings of ten of them still exist1 but only two or three are still inhabited4 ,the church here is a very good one1 and there is a chapel of ,constantine4 ,the view is magnificent4 ,i gave a dollar to the young priest who took me round1 desiring him to use it for any purpose of the church2 but ,i found1 from what my peasant guide told me when we had got down1 that the scamp had pocketed it for his own use1 for that the chief papa had asked him as we were about to leave1 if the stranger would not leave some parahs for the church4 ,it was a lovely day1 and beneath me1 from the village1 passed a procession of a bridegroom going to a neighbouring village to fetch his bride4 ,his mother was on one side of his horse1 another relative on the other2 before him a male relation carried a flag1 and behind came all his friends and family in their best dresses with guns on their shoulders1 making a gallant show4 ,it was a pretty sight4 ,we left ,kalabaki by ,meteora1 and reached ,trikhala about sunset4 ,the solitude of the town and the vastness of the cemeteries gave one the creeps2 and hearing that the plague was in the town at that moment1 ,i mounted again1 and rode four hours further to a khan and slept there4 ,next day we rode to ,phersala 7twelve hours72 but the plague being there also1 we proceeded a further four hours to a khan under ,thaumaco 7sixteen hours' riding74 ,from ,meteora to ,phersala is one uninterrupted plain which ,i thought would never end4 ,i saw many villages1 but much misery--especially in ,trikhala and ,phersala4 ,next day we got to ,zituni 7six hours7 about noon4 ,i did not venture to stay on account of the plague1 and passed on to ,molo1 at which we arrived in the evening1 passing through the ,straits of ,thermopyl4 ,molo is a village of only #bjj houses1 and yet forty persons had died of the plague in it in the last three days4 ,the terrified inhabitants had fled to the mountains1 and we found only two hangees 7men attached to the han7 to receive us4 ,we meant to have slept here1 but the cats and dogs howled so terribly 7always a symptom of the plague7 that ,i could not sleep in comfort2 so as the moon shone bright1 we mounted and rode six hours further to a village opposite ,parnassus1 passing in safety the fountain famous for robbers who are almost always stationed there4 ,the scenery here is very fine and romantic4 ,in six hours more1 after crossing two little plains besides that of ,chrona1 we arrived at ,livadia 7,february #crd74 ,what between the cold1 the horror of the plague1 and the fatigue1 it had been an appalling journey4 ,,footnotes3 #dd ,the ,gardiki massacre took place about #agii4 ,in ,ali's youth1 his tower had been stormed by the people of ,gardiki and his mother and sister outraged--at least1 so he said4 ,he nursed his revenge for forty years1 and then gratified it by massacring the whole population of the village4 #de ,author of a valuable account of ,greece at this time4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,athens--,,to ,,zante ,,for ,,sale ,,of ,,phigaleian ,,marbles--,,returns ,,to ,,athens--,,fever--,,spencer ,,stanhope--,,trip ,,to ,,marathon1 ,,etc4--,,ramazan--,,living ,,out ,,in ,,the ,,country--,a ,,picnic ,,at ,,salamis--,,presented ,,with ,a ,,block ,,of ,,panathenaic ,,frieze--,,trip ,,to ,,gina--,,leaves ,,athens ,,for ,,italy4 ,my father seems to have got back to ,athens to his old quarters at ,madame ,masson's with ,haller and ,stackelberg1 and there remained4 ,he kept a diary only under the excitement of travel or novelty1 and as the sights and society of ,athens were too familiar to stir him1 there is no precise record of how he passed his time2 but he says in a letter that he intends to spend his winter in completing the gina and ,phigaleian drawings4 ,after all1 it was only two or three months he had to be there4 ,the ,phigaleian ,marbles were to be sold in ,zante in ,may1 and this time he meant to be present4 ,the fiasco of the gina ,marbles in his absence was a warning of what might happen again if the sale were not properly looked after2 and as ,gropius after his failure had been dismissed from his functions as agent 7although still part proprietor7 the necessary work had to be done by the others--each one probably communicating with his own ,government4 ,he had taken care that his 7the ,british7 should be kept properly posted up4 ,in consequence1 everything went off without a hitch4 ,in ,may he went to ,zante4 ,the marbles were sold to ,general ,campbell1#df commandant of the ,ionian ,islands1 acting on behalf of ,h4,r4,h4 the ,prince ,regent1 and were already packed up for transport on the #abth of ,july4 ,during his stay in ,zante my father made many elaborate drawings of the ,phigaleian bas-reliefs1 with a view to determining their relative positions for the book1 and he now returned to ,athens to go on with it4 ,he arrived on the #aath of ,july4 ,but his health was no longer able to bear an ,athenian summer4 ,in ,august he writes3 ,a most tiresome fever has been worrying me for the past month1 sometimes leaving me for a few days1 at others rendering me incapable of doing anything4 ,few people1 even natives1 escape it1 either in this or any other summer4 ,such is the fine climate of ,greece1 which poets would persuade you is a paradise1 whereas really hyperborean ,england1 with all her fogs1 has still the best in the world4444 ,i am summing up a few observations1 wonderfully savant and deep1 on the temples we are preparing for publication1 and the ,grecian architecture in general4 ,between you and me1 ,i verily flatter myself1 we understand it practically better than anybody--as indeed we ought to4 ,i arrived from ,zante on the #aath ,july4 ,while ,i was there ,i received a very fresh 767 letter from home of twenty-nine days4 ,i was rejoiced to find here my friends and old schoolfellows1 ,spencer ,stanhope and his brother4 ,conceive our pleasure talking at ,athens over ,westminster stories and all our adventures since we left4 ,he1 poor fellow1 has been a prisoner in ,france for two and a half years1 having been taken in ,spain owing to the treachery of a ,gibraltar vessel1 which took him into the port of ,barcelona4 ,he is now exploring and excavating 7at his own expense7 for the ,french ,government as the condition for his freedom6 ,a few days later he and ,i made a trip to ,marathon4 ,we proceeded to ,rhamnos1 and sleeping a night at a fountain near by1 visited in the morning the ,temple of ,nemesis and stayed there the whole day4 ,it had been well examined1 and by this time will have been published by ,gell#dg and ,gandy4 ,we then went on to a village near which we had the good fortune to find ,tanagra1 the situation of which had never yet been known4 ,we could trace the whole circuit of the walls and a theatre4 ,thence to ,aulis1 the walls of which are easily traceable2 then we crossed the bridge over the ,euripos into ,euboea4 ,the town of ,negropont is a wretched place1 inhabited by nothing but ,turks4 ,the fortress is ruined and contemptible1 and the cannon out of order1 as usual1 although it is by way of being one of the principal fortresses in these parts4 ,the more one sees of the ,turks the more one is astonished at their prolonged rule in these countries4 ,we visited a bey in this place who had a set of maps1 and was considered one of the most enlightened men in the town4 ,he produced them immediately he saw us1 and boasted of his extensive knowledge on the subject1 and the respect the bystanders paid this philosopher was perfectly delightful4 ,the usual custom1 before making a visit to these great personages1 is to send them an offering of two or three pounds of sugar or coffee1 and ,i thought he seemed rather offended at our exempting ourselves1 as ,englishmen1 from this tribute4 ,next day we went along the seashore1 riding through delightful gardens and olive groves1 to ,eretria1 which has not been seen by modern travellers4 ,it must have been a great city1 little less than three miles in circumference4 ,the whole extent of the walls and theatres is still visible4 ,the greater part of ,greece is naturally a rich and productive country4 ,this needs no better proof than the immense population to which the ruins still remaining bear testimony4 ,the ruins of towns of immense extent and close to each other are found everywhere1 and now it is a desert4 ,neither plague1 pestilence1 nor famine is so destructive as tyranny4 ,we returned to ,athens on the tenth day4 ,we hear that the plague is raging at ,constantinople1 ,salonica1 and ,smyrna2 whereas ,athens1 with the ,morea and ,greece in general1 though surrounded on all sides by it1 has escaped4 ,the festival of ,ramazan is being celebrated4 ,the bazaar has been well sprinkled with water1 and lights are hung before every shop4 ,the caffanee 7coffee shops7 are all open and lighted1 as well as the balconies of the mosques4 ,all day1 if any ,turks are seen1 they are walking about in their best1 with long wands1 but looking very cross1 and not lightly to be accosted by a ,greek4 ,at kinde 7sunset7 the imams call1 and the faithful1 having fasted from sunrise1 not having smoked or even drunk a drop of water1 sit down with holy zeal to the very best meal their funds can afford1 for it is accounted a crime at this feast to deny themselves what the heart desires4 ,after this the mosque1 gaily lighted1 is filled with songs and prayer and thanksgiving4 ,later on the streets are filled4 ,each in his best enjoys whatever pleasures and amusements the town has to offer--ombres chinoises1 long stories from the ',arabian ,nights1' music1 chess-playing1 c4 ,above all1 the women now have liberty4 ,they go about in parties1 unmasked1 visiting1 feasting1 and amusing themselves1 and the whole place is a continual ,vauxhall from sunset to sunrise4 ,at midnight the imam again ascends to the minaret with a chorus1 who sing a solemn and beautiful hymn1 far more impressive than the finest bells in ,christendom4 ,the words begin-- ,arise1 arise1 and pray1 for ye know not the hour of death4 ,towards the morning passes the dumbanum1 a huge drum which a man beats as he goes2 while another accompanies him in a sort of sing-song1 calling up each householder and bidding him eat his pillau1 for the morning is near4 ,he winds up with good wishes and kind terms1 for which1 at the end of the ,ramazan1 he expects a present4 ,my name was brought in4 ,what do you think of ,cockarella to rhyme with ,canella8 ,from the minaret a beggar is crying for charity and threatening to throw himself down unless he gets it4 ,he goes there at the same hour every day till he has got what he wants4 ,the wife of the old disdar 7commandant of the castle7 died a few days ago4 ,she was one of the first ladies of the place1 and a respectable good woman4 ,everyone was touched with the disdar's lamentation4 ',she was the ship in which all my hopes were embarked4 ,she was the port in which ,i took shelter from all the storms and troubles of the world2 in her my comforts and joys were confided2 she was the anchor in which ,i trusted4' ,each morning he has visited her tomb1 and1 causing water to be brought1 has poured it around that her remains may be refreshed4 ,three days after1 as is the custom1 the elders of his relations went to him1 desiring that he should marry again4 ,but he refused1 looking1 as he said1 soon to follow his wife4 ,october #cj4--;,i have been having continual relapses of this abominable fever ever since ,august4 ,the worst was in the beginning of this month1 and it has taken me till now to get over it4 ,after having leeches on1 ,i had removed one of the bandages too soon1 and lost a greater quantity of blood than was intended4 ,it is impossible to describe the feebleness this fever leaves4 ,i sometimes felt as if ,i was breathing out my soul1 and had ceased to belong to this world at all4 ,i lost all interest in my pursuits4 ,i should have been badly off indeed if it had not been for ,madame ,masson4 ,she had been a second mother to me1 and more attentive in this and in all my other illnesses than any attendants ,i could have hired4 ,as soon as ,i was a little better she was so good as to accompany me to a monastery in the ,sacred ,way1 some little distance from ,athens1 to which ,i had been advised to go for change of air4 ,there was only one old woman there to take care of the keys1 and in the big deserted place we were like two owls in a barn4 ,i cannot say it was gay4 ,i passed most of my time in sleeping1 for that has been the chief effect of my weakness1 and what little was left in reading4 ,occasionally we were favoured with a visit by some of our ,athenian friends1 who brought their provisions with them1 as their custom is4 ,the monastery stands in a beautiful dell or pass through the mountains4 ,on one side is a beautiful view of the bay and mountains of ,eleusis1 and on the other1 of the ,plain of ,athens1 with the long forest of olive trees between us and the ,acropolis1 which dominates the plain and is backed by ,hymettus4 ,on the right is the ,pirus1 at no great distance4 ,i could not enjoy this lovely scene4 ,alas6 one can enjoy nothing with a low fever4 ,and now1 after a stay of a fortnight1 we are just returned1 and ,i am not much the better for it4 ,but one of the last days ,i was there ,i was tempted by my friend ,linckh to ride to ,pirus1 to join in celebrating the anniversary of the victory of ,salamis--the #beth ,october--by a fte on the island of ,psytalia1 where the thickest of the fight was waged4 ,he had assembled a large party of ,athenians1 who1 to tell the truth1 were more intent on the feast than on the occasion of it4 ,we embarked from ,pirus in a large boat1 accompanied by music--to wit1 fiddles and tambourines--as is the ,athenian fashion1 and a great cargo of provisions which were to be prepared while the modern ,athenians contemplated the interesting scene before us1 and were to weep over the fall of their country since those glorious days1 c4 c4 ,all set out in the greatest glee4 ,beyond the port1 in the open sea1 some countenances began to change2 though we had almost a calm1 some began to feel the effects of the 'gentle motion' and hung their heads over the side1 while several pinched each other with fear and anxiety at our distance from terra firma4 ,gradually all became silence4 ,then some murmurs began to arise1 together with advice and recommendation to the sailors to row gently and hold fast4 ,a council of war sat1 and agreed nem4 con4 that it would be best to return to the nearest land4 ,a small bay was found and all leapt ashore1 crossing themselves and thanking their stars for their deliverance4 ,a fire was lighted1 the lamb roasted in no time1 a cloth laid on the ground1 and all set to4 ,the ,greeks of old could not have attacked the ,persians with more ardour than these moderns did the turkeys and lamb before us4 ,the bottle went round apace1 and all soon began to glorify themselves1 the demoiselles also playing their part2 and when at length1 and not until at length1 the desire of eating and drinking was accomplished1 each one filched the remaining sweets off the table as she found her opportunity4 ,music's soft enchantment then arose1 and the most active began a dance1 truly bacchanalian1 while the rest lingered over the joys of the table4 ,punch crowned the feast4 ,all was rapture2 moderation was no longer observed1 and the day closed with a pelting of each other with the bones of the slain1 amidst dancing1 singing1 and roars of laughter or applause4 ,i venture to assert most positively that not one thought was given to the scene before us1 or the occasion1 by any one member of the party except my friend ,linckh and the ,greek3 didaskalos1 the schoolmaster of ,athens1 who1 having brought tools for the purpose1 carved on the rock an inscription which will one day be interesting to those who may chance to light upon it a thousand years hence--',invitation or repast in memory of the immortal ,salaminian combat4' ,our party embarked not till after sunset2 and though the sea was twice as high and the wind as contrary as it was coming1 such are the powers of nectar and ambrosia that all conducted themselves with uncommon courage and resolution4 ,choruses1 ,dutch and ,athenian1 beguiled the way1 and all was harmony except the music4 ,so one might have hoped the day might have concluded2 but no6 the ,greek fire1 once lighted1 is not so easily quenched4 ,i1 as an invalid1 and exceedingly tired with so much pleasure1 retired to my cell in a monastery where we were all to pass the night1 and some of my friends kindly gave me a coverlet and a sort of bed1 on which ,i threw myself2 but not until long after midnight did the music or the dancing cease1 or ,i or any sober person get a chance of sleep4 ,we got away next day1 but not without difficulty2 for the ,athenians are like our journeymen3 when once they are out on the spree they must carry it on for a week4 ,we are now in ,athens again1 and ,i have just returned to my work-table covered with the dust of so many lost days4 ,this waste of time is terrible4 ,altogether1 out of twenty-four months spent in ,athens1 seven have been passed in illness4 ,if ever ,i get away from this country in health and safety1 how ,i shall thank my stars6 ,it was in these last days of his stay in ,athens that he became possessed of a portion of the ,panathenaic frieze of the ,parthenon in the following strange manner4 ,the disdar or commandant of the castle on the ,acropolis was by now an old friend of ,cockerell's1 and had ended by becoming exceedingly attached to him4 ,when he understood from the latter1 who came to pay him a farewell visit1 that he was leaving for good1 he told him that he would make him a present4 ,he said he knew that ,cockerell was very fond of old sculptured stones1 so if he liked to bring a cart to the base of the ,acropolis at a certain hour at night 7it could not be done in the daytime for fear of giving offence to the ,greeks7 he would give him something4 ,cockerell kept the appointment with the cart4 ,as they drew near there was a shout from above to look out1 and without further warning the block which forms the right-hand portion of ,slab ,i4 of the ,south ,frieze now in the ,british ,museum was bowled down the cliff4 ,such a treatment of it had not been anticipated1 but it was too late for regrets4 ,the block was put on to the cart1 taken down to the ,pirus1 and shipped at once4 ,cockerell presented it to the ,british ,museum1 and its mutilated appearance bears eloquent testimony to its rough passage down the precipices of the ,acropolis4 ,my fever continued to harass me until ,i took a trip to gina1 which ,i made for the purpose of change of air1 as well as of correcting and revising our drawings of the ,temple of ,jupiter ,panhellenius4 ,in both respects ,i have succeeded beyond my hopes4 ,i am now in perfect health1 and have made some improvements and additions to our observations which will be of importance to our work4 ,taking ladders from here1 ,i have also succeeded in measuring the columns of a temple supposed to have been that of ,venus--,i think ,hecate--which are of universally admired proportion1 and so high that hitherto no travellers have been able to manage them4 ,only two columns still exist4 ,they belong1 ,i found1 to the posticum between the ant4 ,in digging at their base to prove this1 ,i came upon a very beautiful foot in a sandal1 life-size1 of ,parian marble1 of precisely the same school and style as those of our ,panhellenian discovery4#dh ,you may imagine ,i counted on nothing less than finding a collection as interesting and extensive as the other4 ,i procured1 with some difficulty1 authority from the archons of the island1 and struck a bargain by which they were to have one half of the produce of the excavation1 which was to be made at my expense1 and ,i the other1 with a first refusal of purchasing their portion4 ,i dug for three days without finding the smallest fragment1 and1 what was worse1 satisfied myself that it had been dug over and re-dug a hundred times1 the foundations of the temple having served time out of mind as a quarry for the ginetans4 ,the money spent was not very great1 the time wasted was all to the good of my health1 and ,i was able to make a curious observation on the foundations of the building4 ,greek temples are commonly on rock4 ,this was not2 and the foundations were no less than #ad to #ae feet deep1 the first three courses of well-cut stone1 the last set in mortar on a wall of small stones in mortar1 at the sides of which is a rubble-work of largish stones beaten down with sea sand and charcoal and bones of sacrifices4 ,underneath1 again1 are other courses of well-cut stones which form a solid mass under the whole temple4 ,i have also with great difficulty1 since there are no carpenters in this country1 ascertained what ,i spoke of before as a matter of conjecture--viz4 the entasis or swelling of the ,greek columns4 ,a straight line stretched from the capital to the base showed the swelling at about a third of the height to be in the ,temple of ,minerva an inch1 in that of gina half an inch1 which is the same proportion in both4 ,the ruined state of the columns of the ,theseum makes it less easy to ascertain the exact swelling4 ,those of ,minerva ,polias and the ,erechtheum are also swelled4 ,i have no doubt that it was a general rule with the ,greek architects1 though it has hitherto escaped the eyes of ,stuart and our most accurate observers4 ,cockerell had long been anxious to get into ,italy4 ,there alone could he see and study an architecture in some measure applicable to modern needs1 if he was ever to become a practical architect4 ,for four years he had been studying abstract beauty1 practising his hand in landscape painting1 interesting himself in archology1 and generally1 except for his vigour and perseverance1 behaving as many a gentleman at large might have done whose place in the ,english world was already made for him4 ,but he had a position to win1 and in one of the most arduous of professions1 for which all this unsettling life was not merely not preparing him but actually making him unfit4 ,since his first startling success at gina1 he had been led on from one expedition to another1 losing sight for months together1 in the easy life and simple conditions which surrounded him1 of the keen competition in the crush of ,london for which he ought to be girding himself4 ,he had been forming a taste1 but a taste in the externals and details of building only4 ,of composition and of planning he had seen as yet no fine example and had learnt nothing4 ,there was nothing left for him to do in ,greece4 ,he had traversed it in all directions1 seen every place of interest1 and whenever there appeared a prospect of finding anything with the moderate means at his disposal1 he had tried digging4 ,under ,napoleon's continental system ,italy of course was closed to ,englishmen1 but to ,bavarians it was accessible1 and ,cockerell had often talked with ,haller of the possibility of smuggling himself as his servant into the country under cover of his 7,haller's7 passport4 ,fortunately this was never attempted4 ,even if they had succeeded in passing the frontiers under ,governments where every foreigner was subjected to continual espionage1 the delusion would soon have been discovered4 ,it was a boy's scheme4 ,he had also tried to engage the good offices of ,louis of ,bavaria to obtain him admission as an artist1 but nothing had come of it2 and finally1 when he heard that ,lady ,hester ,stanhope had got leave to travel in ,italy1 he had applied to ,lord ,melville for a similar indulgence4 ,but with the abdication of ,napoleon1 which took place in ,april #ahad1 the whole prospect changed4 ,france was at once thrown open to ,englishmen1 and the rest of the ,continent by degrees4 ,it is not easy to discover at what precise date the kingdom of ,naples and ,rome became accessible1 but it must have been during the summer4 ,western news took time to percolate into ,greece1 but as soon as he learnt that there was a possibility of penetrating into ,italy1 he had begun making preparations for doing so4 ,and now that there was nothing left to detain him1 he arranged to start with ,linckh for ,rome on the #aeth of ,january1 #ahae4 ,when the appointed day came1 ,madame ,masson saw him off at the ,pirus1 and shed floods of tears4 ,she was very fond of him4 ,two years after she writes3 ,non si sa cosa ,carnovale dopo la vostra partenza4 ,a curious fact about the journey is that they brought away with them a ,german of ,darmstadt of the name of ,carl ,rester1 who appears to have been a fugitive slave1 of whom more hereafter4 ,the party was joined by a ,mr4 ,tupper4 ,this young gentleman had been lodging at ,madame ,makri's1 and had fallen in love1 as it was the indispensable fashion for young ,englishmen to do1 with one or all of the charming daughters4 ,he left them in tears1 vowing to return1 but it does not appear that he ever did4 ,the diary of this journey is kept in a sketch-book in pencil1 and is not everywhere legible4 ,the country was one well traversed by tourists and minutely described by ,gell4 ,there were no discoveries to be made or new impressions to be felt4 ,they had no adventures4 ,the weather was odious4 ,the entries consist largely of the kind of information--estimates of population1 accounts of products1 and possibilities--which for the modern traveller is found by ,murray or ,baedeker1 and would never figure in his diary4 ,at the mouth of the ,alpheus he remarks how well suited the situation would be for a naval dockyard1 close to vast forests of oak and fir--forests1 all of which must have disappeared in the devastations of ,mehemet ,ali1 for there are none there now4 ,the route taken was by ,corinth1 ,argos1 ,tripolizza1 ,caritzena1 ,phigaleia1 which they found buried in snow1 ,olympia1 ,patras1 ,ithaca1 ,corfu1 ,otranto1 ,lecce1 ,bari1 and ,foggia4 ,the ,pass of ,bovino1 between ,foggia and ,naples1 was considered exceedingly dangerous1 on account of banditti1 and perhaps the most interesting thing in the whole diary is the extravagant size of the escort considered necessary to see the travellers through it4 ,it consisted of no less than sixty men--thirty cavalry and thirty infantry4 ,but on the whole the diary of the journey1 which was through interesting places and at an interesting moment1 could hardly be duller4 ,it may be due to ,cockerell's having been in poor health1 or to ,tupper's having been a stupid1 unstimulating companion4 ,they arrived at ,naples on the #adth of ,april1 #ahae4 ,,footnotes3 #df ,general ,sir ,james ,campbell1 ,bart4 7#agfc-ahai71 ,governor of the ,ionian ,islands till #ahaf4 #dg ,sir ,william ,gell 7#aggg-ahcf71 traveller1 author of the ,itinerary of ,greece1 ,pompeiana1 and other works4 ,the ,augustus ,hare of his day4 #dh ,this foot was presented to the ,glyptothek at ,munich4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,naples--,,pompeii--,,rome--,,the ,,german ,,rester ,,got ,,rid ,,of--,,social ,,success ,,in ,,rome--,,leaves ,,for ,,florence--,,bartholdy ,,and ,,the ,,niobe ,,group--,,lady ,,dillon-- ,,the ,,wellington ,,palace--,,pisa--,,tour ,,in ,,the ,,north--,,meets ,,stackelberg ,,again--,,returns ,,to ,,florence ,,and ,,rome--,,homeward ,,bound--,,conclusion4 ,with one exception there were no ,englishmen1 artists or others1 in ,naples at that time1 but a number of ,frenchmen1 with some of whom ,cockerell struck up a great intimacy4 ,in spite of national feeling1 which was running very high at the time1 he got on very well with them1 but he says in a letter from ,rome they were dreadful time-servers in their political views4 ,of course it was a difficult moment for ,frenchmen4 ,after ,napoleon's abdication at ,fontainebleau in ,april #ahad1 they had had to accommodate themselves to a revival of the ancient monarchy1 which could not be very satisfactory to anyone1 and now ,napoleon was back again in ,france4 ,between two such alternatives no wonder that their judgment oscillated2 but to ,cockerell--patriotic1 enthusiastic1 and troubled by no awkward dilemmas--their vacillation was unintelligible4 ,the one ,englishman was ,gell 7afterwards ,sir ,william71 who speaks of a stay they made together at ,pompeii as the pleasantest time he had spent in his three years' tour4 ,during this time ,cockerell worked hard1 and besides what he did which could only be of use to himself1 he made himself so familiar with ,pompeii that ,gell proposed to him to join him in writing an itinerary of that place4 ,altogether1 leaving ,athens on the #aeth of ,january1 it was six months before ,cockerell got to ,rome4 ,between ,naples and ,rome the country seems to have been in a very unquiet state1 and ,carl ,rester1 who was still with him1 writes afterwards3 ,you remember how anxious about brigands we all were on the journey4 ,soon after they arrived1 ,rester1 who must by now have become an irksome burden1 started from ,rome to walk to his own home at ,frankfort4 ,he took a long time about it1 but he got there at last in ,december1 only to find his family so reduced by the wars that he determined1 as he says1 not to be a burden to them1 but to show his gratitude to his benefactor by asking for more favours and throwing himself as a burden upon him4 ,so he determined to extend his walk to ,england4 ,before leaving his native town1 however1 he says he published in the local newspaper the following strange tribute to ,cockerell's generosity3 ,magna ,britannia victoriosa1 gloriosa1 bene merens1 felix4 ,carolus ,robertus ,cockerell nobilis ,anglus et moribus et scientiis praeclarus me infelicem perditum ,germaniae prolem1 primis diebus #ahae e ,morea barbaris deportavit4 ,ad ,corfum deinde amicis meis ,anglis restituit et patriae advicinavit per ,napolem universum1 ,romae me secum ducentem for ducens humaniter semper et nobili amicitia me tractavit a ,london1 ,old ,burlington ,street1 ,no4 #h1 nobilissimi parentes ipsum progenuerunt dignissimum membrum magnae nationis et hominem ubicunque aestimatissimum ,pro gratia universis ,anglis et ipsi ,carolus ,rester germanus4 ,gallis merentibus1 ,britannia juncta ,germanis felix ,auspicium semper semperque erit4 7,are these two last lines elegiacs8--,,ed47 ,he arrived at ,bois le ,duc early in ,march #ahaf1 and after an illness there of seven weeks1 writes to ,cockerell to beg his assistance to get him over to ,england1 that he might be the better able to sponge upon him there4 ,i never heard what became of him afterwards4 ,cockerell then was in ,rome1 and here he first began to enjoy the harvest of his labours4 ,he says there were no ,english there at the time except ,lady ,westmoreland1 mother of the ,british minister at ,florence1 but there was a large society of foreign artists1 into which he threw himself4 ,there were the brothers ,riepenhausen1 painters2 ,schadow1 a sculptor from ,berlin2 ,ingres1 who drew his portrait2#di ,cornelius of ,munich1 and others of his school2 ,knoering1 a ,russian2 ,mazois1 author of ,le ,palais de ,scaurus and an itinerary of ,pompeii2 ,catel1 a ,french architect2 ,thorwaldsen1 ,overbeck1 ,vogel1 portrait painter2 ,bartholdy1 ,prussian consul-general2 ,hess1 a painter from ,vienna2 ,canova1 and ,checcarini1 who did the ,neptune and ,tritons in the ,piazza del ,popolo at the bottom of the drive up to the ,pincio4 ,the air of ,rome was steeped in classicism4 ,in this company every event was described in classical figures3 their caf was the ,caf ,greco1 which still exists2 the front half was called the ,pronaos4 ,there all the artistic world collected and made acquaintance4 ,if ,i were a little more vain ,i should be out of my wits at the attention paid me here4 ,i have a daily levee of savants1 artists and amateurs come to see my drawings2 envoys and ambassadors beg to know when it will be convenient for me to show them some sketches2 ,prince ,poniatowski and the ,prince of ,saxe-,gotha beg to be permitted to see them4 ,i say they are slight1 and in truth poor things1 but at any rate they were done on the spot1 and they1 ',c'est la ,grce enfin1 c'est l le vritable pays4 ,ah1 ,monsieur1 que vous tes heureux d'avoir parcouru ce beau pays6' ,then ,i explain to them some constructions or beauties which they don't understand4 ',ah1 que c'est merveilleux1 mais vous les publierez1 vous nous donnerez le bonheur de les possder1 mais ce sont des choses fort intressantes1 enfin c'est de la ,grce4' ,and in truth publishers and readers have been so long restricted to the ,roman antiquities1 which have been published and read over and over again a thousand times1 that the avidity for novelty is beyond measure1 and ,greece is the fashion here as everywhere else4 ,there is not a single ,english artist here and only a few passengers4 ,lady ,westmoreland is one4 ,she is a very clever1 well-bred1 agreeable chatterer1 who has been very civil to me1 and made me lose several hours which might have been better employed4 ,fortunately she is going away4 ,i have several letters for the ,roman nobles1 but ,i have not presented them that ,i may have my time to myself4 ,so ,canova is gone to ,england4 ,i hope it is not to execute the paltry monument of ,lord ,nelson which he has published here4 ,it would be a disgrace to us all4 ,fancy the great ,nelson as a ,roman in petticoats6 ,i do trust whenever a monument is erected to him it may be as original1 national1 and characteristic as was the man and the great nation he sprang from4 ,every age hitherto has had ingenuity enough to make its costume interesting in sculpture2 we are the first who have shown such poverty of ideas as to despise our age and our dress4 ,i hope he will not be made too much of in ,england4 ,it is true that nobody ever worked the marble as he does1 and it is this finish of his which has deceived and captivated the world1 but it is nothing but artificiality1 and there is no nature about it4 ,when he attempts the sublime he is ludicrous4 ,in seeking grace he is more successful2 but1 after all1 his ,terpsichore was conceived in the ,palais ,royal1 and her headdress is exactly the latest hairdressers' fashion4 ,it is exasperating to think of his success when ,flaxman1 as far his superior as ,hyperion to a satyr1 an artist looked up to by the schools of the ,continent as a great and extraordinary genius1 is neglected by us because he is not a foreigner4 ,it is exceedingly gratifying to me to find everything in my portfolio turning to account4 ,i had the pleasure of showing to ,colonel ,catinelli1 who lately fortified ,genoa1 my fortifications of ,syracuse1 and the sketches ,i made of that subject in ,greece4 ,he assures me that they are invaluable notices new to modern warfare1 and that they prove that1 compared to the ancients1 we who imagine ourselves so well informed on the matter1 know nothing at all4 ,then ,i have above #aej inscriptions among my papers1 and ,i find most of them are unpublished4 ,i have had them copied fairly1 and they are now in the hands of a great savant1 ,m4 ,akerblad1 for his perusal4 ,he promises to give me his notes on them4 ,i do think ,i have not made a bad use of my opportunities1 if ,i may judge by the interest taken in the various new notices on different subjects ,i have brought with me1 and the flattering consideration everywhere shown me1 ,i get so many invitations1 and am so harassed to show distinguished persons of all nations my drawings1 that ,i can get no time to myself4 ,and in order to have something to show ,i have been obliged to finish up some of my sketches1 which has occupied the whole of the last two months4 ,i have now a portfolio of about fifteen of some of the most interesting scenes in ,greece fit to show1 and ,i generally find them as much as my visitors want to see4 ,finding at last that my time and occupations were too much infringed upon by gaieties1 ,i left ,rome to seek more quiet in ,florence4 ,i found it at first1 and for more than six weeks was as busy as it was possible to be4 ,my life was a curious one4 ,i rose early1 and after working all day1 dined alone at a trattoria1 refusing frequently three or four invitations in a day4 ,then ,i slept three or four hours on a sofa1 and rose in the night to work calmly until four or five in the morning1 when ,i took another nap1 and rose at seven4 ,this odd life got wind2 and as ,i was a great deal known here1 either by reputation or by name and family1 ,i occasioned a good deal of wonder1 particularly among those who are astonished at anyone's occupying himself earnestly except for a necessity4 ,the interest in me was also increased rather than diminished by my shyness when ,i did show in company4 ,i had so much lost the habit of society by the long sojourn in ,turkey1 and1 looking on it with a new eye1 was often so disgusted with the follies of it1 and showed my disgust1 that ,i got a character for being a cynic4 ,but instead of taking offence people only made the more of me1 and ,i was constantly invited out1 more to gratify my hosts' curiosity than to give pleasure to me4 ,to have travelled in ,greece1 still more to have been a discoverer there1 is enough to make a lion2 while the fame of my drawings1 which few of the many who saw them understood and all were therefore willing to think wonderful1 completed the business4 ,it was at this time that ,i brought out my drawing of the ,niobe and the etchings from it4 ,b4 ,bartholdy1 ,prussian consul-general in ,rome1 an intelligent man and much interested in art1 had travelled up from ,rome to ,florence with ,cockerell and made himself one of his most intimate acquaintances4 ,walking together one day in the ,uffizi1 they examined the group of the ,niobe4 ,it is now neglected and forgotten1 but in those days it occupied1 in the estimation of artists1 the place to-day held by the ,elgin ,marbles4 ,with the ,venus de' ,medici1 the ,apollo ,belvedere1 and the ,torso in the ,vatican1 these statues were regarded as the greatest remains antiquity had bequeathed to the modern world4 ,but1 prized and studied as they were1 the purpose of so many figures1 evidently meant to stand together1 had never yet dawned on the minds of their admirers4 ,the figure of ,niobe1 which is the largest1 had been placed in the middle1 and the rest in a circle round her4 ,it was felt indeed that this could not be right1 but no one had anything better to suggest1 and it remained one of the favourite puzzles for art lovers to wrangle over4 ,into the middle of this clouded state of intelligences ,cockerell dropped as from another planet4 ,the experience of the ginetan statues1 which he had arranged so laboriously1 besides the constant sight of what remained of the ,parthenon and other ,greek monuments1 made the notion of a pediment or ,greek3 haetos so familiar as to present itself to his mind at once as the only possible destination for so many statues4 ,he says the first suggestion came on that occasion from ,bartholdy4 ,i have told ,schlegel and all parties that it was first proposed by you2 to which ,bartholdy replies3 ,j'aurai le plaisir de pouvoir dire que vous avez fait fructifier un petit grain tomb de la main d'un amateur des beaux arts qui sans cela serait rest strile4 ,but it was probably the company of ,cockerell and the associations with gina c4 which suggested the notion to ,bartholdy4 ,at all events1 beyond that first suggestion1 ,bartholdy did nothing4 ,it was ,cockerell who measured the statues1 arranged them1 proved the case1 and made the etching which hangs to this day in the ,niobe ,room in the ,uffizi ,gallery1 showing the arrangement which he proposed4 ,in recognition1 however1 of the part ,bartholdy had had in it1 the plate was dedicated to him4 ,for the introduction of ,cockerell as a lion into society--if that be a thing to be desired--this discovery was most opportune4 ,he had arrived with a great reputation as a traveller1 a discoverer1 and unraveller of age-long puzzles1 as in the case of the ,temple of the ,giants1 and now here was a proof of his powers exhibited in the centre of artistic ,europe4 ,i had shown my drawing to several people and amongst the ambassadors and distinguished persons here--all of whom1 de rigueur1 more or less pretend to understand the arts--and it gained universal approbation4 ,it was talked about by all1 and written about by ,demetrius ,schinas and other obscure poets and prose writers4 ,i was flattered1 invited1 and made much of4 ,our ambassador boasts that the solution has been proved by an ,englishman2 others bow and beg to be allowed to send copies of my etching to their ,governments1 to ,metternich1 c4 ,it was formally presented to the ,grand ,duke1 and ,i have received from the ,academy here a handsome letter and diploma of ,academician of ,florence4 ,it is to be published in the official work on the ,gallery4 ,i have presented it myself to ,madame de ,stal1 and my friends have sent it to all parts of the ,continent4 ,he was now regularly launched in the fashionable society of ,florence4 ,the reigning beauty at this time1 the centre of all jollity and brightness1 was ,lady ,dillon4 ,all the young men were at her feet1 and ,cockerell was as deeply smitten as anybody4 ,as already mentioned1 during the time that he was in ,syracuse he had learnt the art of cameo-cutting4 ,he now made use of it--or at least of the preliminary stage1 which is to make a model in wax--to execute a highly finished portrait of her1 which still exists in the possession of her descendants4 ,it shows a head of great beauty1 and is executed with admirable skill and minuteness4 ,the whole ,english nation was now jubilant over the success of its army at ,waterloo1 and was considering the rewards to be offered to its idol1 the ,duke of ,wellington4 ,he was to have a magnificent palace1 surpassing the glories of ,blenheim1 and architects were called upon to give reins to their imagination in preparing designs in competition4 ,the celebrity which my father had by now made for himself obtained him1 through the medium of ,lord and ,lady ,burghersh1 his fast friends1 a formal invitation to send in designs for the ,wellington ,palace4 ,the opportunity was of course magnificent1 but nothing he had been doing for years had in the least adapted him to take advantage of it4 ,although my occupation in the ,wellington ,palace is a very honourable one1 and the study and exercise of invention in the course of it may be profitable1 yet ,i cannot help wishing ,i had never been invited to give an idea for it1 for ,i have spent a vast deal of time over it1 and it will add nothing to my reputation1 even if it does not detract from it4 ,if such a design was difficult to everyone1 you may imagine what it was to me who have never attempted anything original before4 ,i consulted every architectural work of ,europe 7they are all in the library here71 and ,i would have consulted every professional man ,i could get at if there had been any here whose opinion was worth having4 ,then ,i composed general ideas1 and finally fixed on one which pleased ,mr4 ,north and several other persons to whom ,i showed it2 but when ,i went into detail ,i found the difficulties increase immeasurably1 and the notions which were plausible while they were vague could not be put into execution4 ,plan would not agree with elevation4 ,doors and windows would not come into their right places4 ,i invented roundabout ways for simple ends4 ,in fact ,i worked furiously1 and for the first time realised the practical difficulties of the profession4 ,at last1 when ,i had filled a portfolio with sketches and schemes1 ,i completed a set and showed them to ,lord and ,lady ,burghersh1 who said they were pleased with them4 ,i began to feel that ,i had too large an acquaintance in ,florence--too many visits and invitations4 ,my wound 81 of which ,i did not get the better1 confined me1 and that made me generally unwell and obliged me to go through a course of physic4 ,altogether ,i got out of heart with my work and determined to get away4 ,i went to ,pisa for the month of ,july1 and except for visits from ,pigou ,i was quite alone4 ,there ,i undid all ,i had done before1 and finding that to do the thing well ,i should need more time than ,i could possibly give1 ,i determined to make some small sketches which1 prettily finished1 might attract attention and show that ,i was in some sort capable4 ,finally1 ,i made some sketches and sent them with an explanation to ,lady ,burghersh and a request to forward them to the proper quarter4 ,the difficulties he had encountered over these drawings so disgusted him with architecture that he seems to have even proposed to his father to throw it up and become a painter1 as that1 he thought1 was the profession for which he was best suited4 ,but ,mr4 ,cockerell1 who was a steady business man1 had no notion of his son becoming what he would have considered a bohemian1 and refused to sanction any such change4 ,the only thing to do1 then1 was to continue his studies4 ,the ,wellington ,palace drawings had at any rate weaned him of any idea that pure ,greek architecture was applicable to modern architectural designing1 and he had little knowledge of any other4 ,he started for a tour of the north of ,italy4 ,his letters contain few criticisms4 ,palladio1 probably as being most akin to what he had hitherto studied1 pleased him more than any other architect4 ,in ,venice he fell in with ,stackelberg1 who had been home to ,russia while his travels in ,greece were still fresh enough to claim attention1 and had been received with every sort of distinction4 ,he was now on his way back to ,rome to settle there and bring out the various books he subsequently published4 ,the two joined forces1 and having run through all the principal towns1 returned southwards to ,florence4 ,shortly after1 in company with ,lord and ,lady ,dillon1 he went to ,rome4 ,he was now a recognised lion1 everywhere fted and made much of4 ,bartholdy writes of him3 ,cockerell est gt par les femmes4 ,nevertheless he worked hard4 ,amongst other things he finished the drawing of the ,forum ,romanum1 the engraving of which is well known4 ,the ,duchess of ,devonshire wished to insert a reduction of it in her ,virgil1 and writes to thank him for the beautiful drawing you was so good as to do for me4 ,he had left also in ,rome the bulk of his1 and ,haller's1 drawings for the intended book on ,greek architecture4 ,these he picked up1 and having seen all the architecture ,italy had to show him1 he started in ,march for ,england4 ,in ,paris he remained some little time4 ,a letter from his father during his stay there is worth transcribing in part4 ,i send a few hints as to what you should observe in ,paris2 not things of that high order to which you have so long been used1 but yet important to study in order to supply the luxurious indulgence so much coveted by the great here1 by whom a complete knowledge of them in their professors of architecture is expected4 ,you have raised a name here so high that everything in perfection will be expected of you2 at least in all that relates to taste in the arts1 and in all the subordinate degrees of contrivances1 as well as in decoration4 ,the last is that which affords the most extensive employment1 and you will be surprised to find more importance attached to the decorations of a salon than to the building of a temple4 ,if1 therefore1 you can bend to the consideration of what is called the 'fittings up' of the interior of the best hotels and palaces of ,paris1 the graces of their meubles1 and the harmony of their colours in hangings1 painting1 and gilding1 you may be the general arbiter of taste here2 and as there are very few persons who are real judges of compositions even classical1 much less sublime1 and there must be few opportunities of exercising those parts of your studies here1 it will be really useful if you allow yourself to look at those minor objects at ,paris which in truth they judge well of4 ,percier#ej is the first architect in ,paris2 he will tell you what is worth seeing4 ,dismalter ,jacob are the first decorators in furniture c41 #eg ,rue ,mesle4 ,your friends ,lord ,burghersh and ,lord ,dillon proclaim your name without ceasing1 and much is expected of you4 ,the ,duke of ,gloucester has commanded me to introduce you to his acquaintance4 ,you have been spoken of at ,carlton ,house1 where ,i have reason to think there is great likelihood of your being noticed advantageously2 but you must not be disappointed to find very common things occupying the minds of a large majority of a nation of boutiquiers1 and we must take the world as we find it1 believing always that good sense1 refined judgment1 and true taste will ultimately prevail4 ,do not imagine that ,i am thinking of money as the only thing worth your attention4 ,i consider that as the last object4 ,the first1 a higher order of taste and information1 you possess amply4 ,the second is to learn to suit in some measure the times we live in and the objects which occupy the multitude1 and it is worth attending to4 ,the third and last is the profit which follows2 but that must come of itself1 and is not worth pursuing4 ,you will think me lecturing to the last1 but ,i really mean no more than to express my hope that you will not despise trifles1 if elegant1 finding yourself for the moment amongst a nation of triflers1 because they have long been considered and imitated by ourselves and the rest of ,europe as accomplished in matters of ornament1 though not in subjects of use4 ,your family are now on tiptoe for your arrival1 and daily drink their affectionate good wishes to the homeward bound4 ,none is behind another in their impatience2 for myself1 it is always present to me4 ,nevertheless1 ,i am not selfish enough to wish you to leave unseen1 for the sake of a few days more1 anything which you ought to be acquainted with4 ,my father arrived in ,london on the #agth of ,june1 #ahag1 having left it on the #ajth of ,april1 #ahaj4 ,besides his own1 he had brought with him all ,haller's drawings for the intended book which was to be the complete and final authority on ,greek architecture and the grand result of his seven years of travel4 ,haller was to come to ,england to see it through the press4 ,had it appeared at once it would have been most propos4 ,greek architecture was all the fashion4 ,unhappily1 the intention was thwarted by the sudden death of ,haller1 which took place at ,ambelakia1 in the ,vale of ,tempe1 of a congestion of the lungs1 caught while making excavations in the month of ,september #ahah4 ,the loss of this valuable help disheartened my father1 who had no taste for the work4 ,he was already busy in other ways1 and the task which should have had his first attention gradually sank into the background4 ,one by one those who had taken part in the discoveries died3 ,stackelberg in #ahcf1 ,linckh and ,foster not many years after4 ,but the book remained a load on my father's conscience all his life1 and it was not till #ahei1 more than forty years later1 that it saw the light4 ,the interest in the events and actors had died down1 and the novelties had become common property4 ,his unfortunate dislike for writing lost him much of the credit he might have reaped1 while others profited by his experience4 ,his collection of inscriptions was picked over by ,walpole2 ,hughes fills out his pages with his letters2 ,bronstedt uses his drawings4 ,it is ,stackelberg who relates how he discovered the bas-reliefs at ,phigaleia2 ,beaufort anticipates anything he might have had to tell of ,karamania2 ,wordsworth plundered his portfolio2 and in the absence of any consecutive account of his own1 it has been often only by the help of the writings of others that it has been possible for me to piece together his disjointed and often undated diaries4 ,,footnotes3 #di ,see frontispiece4 #ej ,charles ,percier 7#agfd-ahch71 originator of the so-called ,empire style in furniture1 architect of the ,arc de ,triomphe du ,carrousel1 and of parts of the ,louvre and of the ,tuileries4 ,,printed ,,by ,,spottiswoode ,,and ,,co4 ,,ltd41 ,,new-,,street ,,square ,,london