,transcriber's ,note ,obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected4 ,variations in hyphenation have been standardised but all other spelling and punctuation remains unchanged4 ,,the ,,busy ,,woman',s ,,garden ,,book ,illustration3 ,an outside window box that harmonizes with the general architectural scheme ,,the ,,busy ,,woman',s ,,garden ,,book ,,by ,,ida ,d4 ,,bennett ,,boston ,,small1 ,,maynard ,,company ,,publishers ,copyright1 #aibj1 ,,by ,,small1 ,,maynard ,,company 7,,incorporated7 ,,introduction ,this little book has a very definite aim--a big aim too1 though two little words or even one will serve to define it--,to help1 or better still1 perhaps--helpfulness4 ,it does not aim to tell everything there is to tell about gardening2 that would be encyclopedic and quite out of the scope of a small1 practical work on gardening1 but it does aim to give1 in plain1 everyday language sufficient and clear directions for caring for an ordinary kitchen garden in a way the least exhausting of time and strength and with all unnecessary expenditure eliminated4 ,it covers all necessary detail except that of personal equation2 that--,dear ,woman1 when the spring time calls and you go forth full of enthusiasm1 is1 in the language of the day--,up to you4 ,your garden will give back to you just ,what you put into it--no more1 and the more you give to it the less it will exact of you2 neglect it ever so little and it will prove a hard taskmaster indeed1 or a living reproach--a reproach that will burgeon and bloom in noxious weeds and sickening plants1 a garden where the worm dieth not and the aphis and grub revel undisturbed and unchecked4 ,there is nothing so easy as to keep a garden in perfect order1 free from weeds and pernicious insect life1 nothing easier than to have the reverse of this4 ,one cannot garden successfully on the principle that one can work in the garden when there is nothing else to do1 no one to play with1 nowhere to go4 ,the garden should be first to a certain extent1 and this is not an arbitrary or exacting condition for the toll exacted is paid for many times over in the peace of mind that comes from work well and conscientiously done1 to say nothing of the economic value of thrifty vegetables4 ,there are always critical times in the life of the garden2--the gardener must recognize these and be prepared to give just the assistance the condition requires at just the time it is required2 if this is done promptly it will surprise one who has had no system heretofore in the garden work to see how little time is really required to care for a garden successfully4 ,the failure to co-operate with nature at the right time may result in many hours of wearisome work4 ,take the matter of weeds2--if the planting is closely watched and the weeds cut off as quickly as they show a seed leaf above ground1 and before they have stuck their roots deeply enough into the ground to make more than a mere stirring of the soil necessary1 an entire week's crop of weeds will be destroyed with one stirring of the soil4 ,weeds come in relays a week or ten days apart1 come not at all if the soil is kept properly stirred--which should be after every rain and between if the rain is infrequent1 and it is well worth one's time to exercise a little self-denial and give this cultivation even though it may mean letting something else go that one would like to do4 ,and one need not worry too much about being scientific in one's gardening2 insecticides1 fungicides and the like are the allies of the careless gardener1 but the wide awake1 industrious gardener has little need of them4 ,healthy1 vigorous plants are not especially susceptible to insect attacks and with the exception of potato bugs1 squash bugs and cabbage worms the danger from them is merely negligible1 but the careless1 slovenly gardener is a real and pestilential danger4 ,there is much in choosing the right time of day for work in the garden2 it is delightful to wield the rake and hoe in the cool of the afternoon1 but where the object is the destruction of weeds the morning hours of a sunny day will give permanent results as the weeds will be killed by the hot sun1 while those hoed up in late afternoon will often be revived by the coolness and dew of night and be ready to withstand the morrow's sun1 so take the morning hours for destroying weeds1 and the cooler hours for planting seeds1 staking up plants1 thinning out plants and the like but always the bright1 dry sunny hours for tying up such vegetables as need blanching3 cauliflower1 endive and the like4 ,this will make for success in the various operations and comfort in working4 ,where it is necessary to water the garden this should if possible be done after the sun has nearly or quite gone from it in order to reduce the loss of moisture by evaporation2 this is especially desirable in city gardens where the water is metered and always1 if possible a night's watering should be followed by shallow cultivation the following forenoon to restore the dust-mulch and necessitate as little watering as possible4 ,these are a few of the little attentions which make for success in the garden and minimize the sum of the season's work4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,i ,,planning ,,the ,,garden #a ,,ii ,,hotbeds1 ,,cold ,,frames ,,and ,,flats #ab ,,iii ,,planting ,,seed ,,in ,,the ,,open ,,ground #cf ,,iv ,,transplanting #dh ,v ,,garden ,,tools #ec ,,vi ,,holding ,,and ,,increasing ,,the ,,fertility ,,of ,,soil #fd ,,vii ,,asparagus #hj ,,viii ,,early ,,spring ,,vegetables #hf ,,ix ,,mid-,,season ,,vegetables #abb ,x ,,vegetables ,,of ,,the ,,vine ,,family #aga ,,xi ,,vegetables ,,less ,,commonly ,,grown #ahf ,,xii ,,quantity ,,of ,,seed ,,required #bjj ,,xiii ,,sweet1 ,,pot ,,and ,,medicinal ,,herbs #bjb ,,xiv ,,plant ,,enemies ,,and ,,insecticides #bjh ,,xv ,,winter ,,storage #bbj ,,xvi ,,canning ,,the ,,garden ,,surplus ,,for ,,winter ,,use #bcb ,,xvii ,,fall ,,work ,,in ,,the ,,garden #bef ,,xviii ,,the ,,annual ,,garden #bfa ,,xix ,,the ,,hardy ,,garden #bgc ,,xx ,,the ,,planting ,,of ,,fall ,,bulbs #bhb ,,xxi ,,economy ,,in ,,the ,,purchase ,,of ,,shrubbery #bhi ,,xxii ,a ,,continuous ,,succession ,,of ,,bloom ,,in ,,the ,,shrubbery #big ,,xxiii ,,gardening ,,for ,,shut-,,ins #cjh ,,xxiv ,,the ,,possibilities ,,of ,a ,,city ,,flat #cah ,,the ,,busy ,,woman',s ,,garden ,,book ,,the ,,busy ,,woman',s ,,garden ,,book ,,chapter ,i ,,planning ,,the ,,garden ,the favorable location of the garden is the initial step in its planning4 ,the kitchen garden--always an important auxiliary of the kitchen--is now1 in these days1 something more2 it is becoming more and more a part of the domestic routine2 it is a woman's garden1 to be planned for and cared for by the women of the family1 and in that relation must be considered from all its points of view4 ,location1 then1 becomes of first importance4 ,it must be accessible1 that its care may demand as little extra work as possible1 and that little be given to the actual cultivation and care and not to going back and forth4 ,if one can run out and cultivate a row of lettuce or train up a row of peas while waiting for the irons to heat or the kettle to boil1 then one will find the sum total of the garden work far less onerous than where one must calculate on going over the entire plat1 or a stated portion of it1 at one operation4 ,a location close to the house1 more or less secluded1 that one may work free from interruption and espionage and where the vegetables may bask in the sun from early morning till late afternoon1 is desirable1 and this is best achieved in a southern exposure with the garden rows running north and south4 ,if the garden plot is protected by buildings or a high fence1 or a wind-break of evergreen on the north it will afford a favorable position for the necessary hotbeds and cold frames and the close relationship of the two will work for efficiency in handling4 ,a warm1 mellow1 sandy loam is the ideal soil for the vegetable garden1 but even a poor soil may be so built up and redeemed by proper cultivation and fertilising as to make the quality of the soil of secondary consideration1 but if one can have both at once then one is happy indeed4 ,tenacious1 clayey soil or newly broken sod ground should not1 however1 be undertaken by a woman1 such ground is a man's job4 ,but it is the warm1 sunny location that is vital to the successful cultivation of the garden4 ,all the early vegetables--peas1 lettuce1 endive and the like--call for abundant sunshine in the cool days of early spring1 and1 as the season advances and the fall chill is in the air at nightfall1 then the warm sunshine will hasten the maturity of such late comers as tomatoes1 winter squash1 citron and any late-sown vegetables that are used to succeed the earlier growths4 ,again in the late days of winter or early spring those vegetables that were left in the ground for early use--the parsnips1 and salsify1 will be available much earlier if given a warm location where the ground thaws readily1 rather than a cold exposure that holds frost late in the season4 ,a piece of ground adjoining other cultivated areas is far preferable to an isolated plot as it may be ploughed in conjunction with the larger piece and so kept in a better grade and condition4 ,an isolated garden plot1 which must be prepared separately necessitating a dead furrow in the center1 becomes1 in the course of a few years a dish shaped area very disagreeable to cultivate2 an open area1 on two sides at least1 obviates this in a measure and renders the ground more level and easily prepared4 ,any garden spot1 however1 should always be ploughed rather than spaded and as deep ploughing as possible should be the rule4 ,if the soil is good go as close to the bottom of it as possible1 the shallow ploughing so universal--seldom more than six inches in depth1 does not give a mellow bed for any but shallow rooted vegetables4 ,carrots1 salsify1 parsnips and similar long-rooted things must fairly drill their way into the hard ground below the shallow cultivation1 this resulting in deformed1 stunted or many twigged roots1 unsalable and of little value for the home table4 ,the long1 smooth1 beautiful bottoms are only produced by deep cultivation to start with and1 of course1 the subsequent cultivation must efficiently supplement this4 ,a very excellent method of preparing the ground would be to turn a deep furrow with the plough and follow this with the subsoil plough1 stirring up the subsoil1 but not mixing it with the top soil2 this would give several inches of loose soil beneath the first furrows that the roots could readily penetrate4 ,so many consider that all the fertility in a soil is contained in the few top inches of soil1 and in a measure this is true--the available fertility is right there--but there is a wealth of unused fertility in the lower strata1 but lack of cultivation1 lack of moisture and most of all1 lack of the humus which makes the soil retentive of moisture1 render it unavailable1 but if it is broken up and gradually mixed with the humus of the upper soil it becomes available and the soil is increasing in fertility instead of growing thinner and poorer year by year4 ,following the ploughing comes the smoothing and leveling of the ground by dragging with a spiked or spring tooth harrow2 this part of the work should be very thoroughly done2 too fine a seed bed can never be produced1 whatever the means employed and the use of drags and harrows by no means spells the whole operation of fitting a garden for planting4 ,after the dragging the garden rake is in order and the ground must be raked over and over until thoroughly fine and free from roughage of sticks1 stones1 clods and the like4 ,if any weeds have been drawn to the surface in dragging they must be pulled out and thrown aside4 ,if there is a dead furrow in the middle of the plot then the raking should be towards that from both directions so as to fill it in as much as possible and so restore the level of the ground4 ,it is not necessary to rake the entire garden at once if time and strength are at a premium4 ,one may rake a space sufficient for the first planting and when that is done rake another space and so equalize the labor1 but it is easier to rake soon after the preliminary fitting is done than to leave it until a rain has packed the earth and made it heavy to move4 ,a good rain1 however1 should always precede the planting1 if possible1 as newly worked ground is not sufficiently settled for sowing seed and not so desirable for setting out of plants4 ,the arrangement of the vegetables in the garden has much to do with the convenience of caring for it4 ,it is always a good arrangement to plant the early vegetables1 such as lettuce1 radishes1 beets1 endive and onions at the end of the garden nearest the house where they are most easily available as one has occasion to use them in preparing a meal4 ,then1 too1 all these small things are planted a standard distance apart--usually twelve or fifteen inches1--twelve if the gardener is addicted to trowsers1 fifteen if skirts are in evidence1 for it is difficult to work in a narrower space1 especially among the tender tops of seedling onions1 in petticoats4 ,so1 with the rows running north and south1 that the vegetables may receive the greatest possible amount of sunshine1 and the vegetables planted in consecutive rows of increasing distances apart1 one has a planting schedule economical of space and labor4 ,this order of planting should also be made to include height as well as distance apart of the rows of vegetables4 ,low growing things should always occupy the front rows of space and not be overshaded by tall growths4 ,for this reason the planting of sweet corn in the garden plot is not desirable2 it is best to give this a space by itself--preferably on the north side of the garden4 ,vine vegetables1 too1 have little place in the garden proper--a place for them on the south side of the garden should be reserved if possible1 for with the best of management they will break bounds and encroach on other plants4 ,i recall a planting of ,english marrows which were placed in the garden next to a row of red peppers4 ,they were bought for bush marrows but proved to be the vine variety and in a month's time had practically taken possession of that end of the garden2 peppers and tomatoes were smothered under a luxuriant growth of squash vines whose luxuriance was only equalled by the astonishing amount of fruit they bore4 ,in desperate effort to check their encroachments great lengths of vines1 bearing half grown marrows1 were ruthlessly removed with no more apparent result than to encourage a still more luxuriant growth and to increase the gardener's knowledge of the amount of pruning a really ambitions1 vigorous vine will stand4 ,the bush varieties of many vegetables are a great boon to the small home gardener as most of them are prolific bearers and require no more room than a hill of potatoes or an eggplant4 ,squash1 melons1 lima beans--all have dwarf forms that are preferable to the usual vine varieties4 ,the home garden should not be too large--a plot forty by eighty feet will grow all the summer and winter vegetables a small family can make use of and a considerable surplus for sale1 especially is this the case where the corn and vines are planted outside the garden proper4 ,potatoes1 too1 are excluded from this estimate1 though a few rows of early potatoes may find room available4 ,the accompanying planting table1 while intended to be merely suggestive will be of use as indicating the amount of room required for the several varieties of plants and a convenient arrangement4 ,the amount to be grown of any one variety however1 must be decided by the individual gardener and it will be time well spent to make a diagram for one's self1 based on the amount of various vegetables that experience shows to be needed4 ,to those vegetables to which the family are most addicted should always be added a few that are grown with the occasional guest in mind and the few things that one likes to try from season to season1 and that add zest to gardening but should never be allowed to occupy space needed for more standard sorts4 ,,planting-,,table ,,for ,a ,,small ,,garden ,,approximately ,,forty ,,by ,,eighty ,,feet ,lettuce--,may ,king1 #a row4 ,transplant from hotbed to #i in4 apart ,onions--,transplanted seedlings of ,prizetaker1 ,ailsa ,craig or ,silver ,skin1 #a in4 #a oz4 ,parsley--,dwarf ,perfection4 ,transplant to #i in4 apart #a ,pkt4 ,endive--,one row1 ,giant ,fringed4 ,transplant to #i in4 apart #a ,pkt4 ,beets--,two rows1 ,crosby's ,egyptian4 ,thin to #c in4 #b oz4 ,carrots--,two rows1 ,danvers ,half ,long4 ,thin to #c in4 #a oz4 ,parsnips--,large ,sugar or ,hollow ,crown4 ,two rows4 ,thin to #c in4 oz4 ,salsify--,two rows1 smooth1 ,mammoth ,sandwich ,island4 ,thin to #c in4 #a oz ,spinach--,one row1 ,all ,season4 ,thin to #h in4 oz4 ,lima ,beans--,fordhook ,bush4 ,thin to #f in4 #b lb4 ,string ,beans--,wardwell's ,kidney ,wax1 or ,navy ,beans4 ,two rows #b lb4 ,peas--,double rows1 ,senator1 ,gradus1 ,telephone4 ,on wire netting #b lb4 ,peppers--,one row1 ,ruby ,giant1 ,bull ,nose1 or ,pimento4 #ab in4 apart #a ,pkt4 ,bush ,muskmelons--,three ft4 apart #a ,pkt4 ,okra--,perkins' ,long ,pod4 ,half row1 thin to #a foot lb4 ,eggplant--,black ,beauty4 #ah in4 #a ,pkt4 ,early ,potatoes--,dreer's ,perfection1 ,early ,ohio4 ,fifteen inches apart #a ,pkt4 ,cauliflower--,early ,snowball4 ,twenty in4 apart #a ,pkt4 ,cauliflower--,dry ,weather4 ,twenty in4 apart #a ,pkt4 ,cabbage--,late ,flat ,dutch4 #b ft4 apart #a ,pkt4 ,squash--,delicious1 ,burbank's ,hubbard4 #f ft4 apart each way #a oz4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,hotbeds1 ,,cold ,,frames ,,and ,,flats ,so important is the preparatory work performed by a well started and conducted hotbed that its use cannot be too insistently recommended4 ,the smallest1 least ambitious home garden is dependent upon the use of artificial heat in the starting of such plants as cabbage1 cauliflower1 peppers1 tomatoes and the like1 either in hotbeds on the home grounds1 flats in the windows or plants grown in commercial greenhouses2 these1 owing to the long season required to bring them into bearing1 cannot be started in the open ground2 especially is this true of such heat loving things as peppers and tomatoes4 ,owing to the quite general practice of buying these plants of the commercial gardeners or florists a much smaller area of ground is devoted to their growth than would be the case were the plants grown in one's own hotbeds where the initial cost would have been that of a few packets of seeds4 ,purchased plants are by no means immune from late frosts or the assaults of cut worms and not infrequently demand successive replantings before a satisfactory stand is secured4 ,with a well stocked hotbed this does not spell so great a disaster1 as only the labor of resetting is demanded and this is not of much moment as the lines and points of setting are already laid down and the hills of tomatoes1 eggplants and peppers already supplied with their spade full of manure4 ,in a generous sized garden where perhaps a hundred plants of a kind are grown the saving in the cost of plants will cover the construction and maintenance of an ordinary hotbed and the cost of a bed of the best concrete construction1 which will last almost a lifetime1 will be covered in a reasonably short time4 ,there is nothing about the construction or care of a hotbed that offers any obstacles to its possession and ,i have about come to the conclusion that the only reason more gardeners do not have them is because they cannot borrow them2 they are the only thing about a garden that some one can't and doesn't borrow and if some one would invent a portable one it would undoubtedly become popular4 ,the requirements are simple3--,a sunny location1 protected from prevailing winds--usually from the west1 and on the north by a wall1 building or fence4 ,being started in the early days of spring--from ,february1 in the vicinity of the ,ohio river1 to late ,march or early ,april in the vicinity of the ,great ,lakes2 they require a background that will hold the heat of the sun instead of allowing it to escape4 ,a well-drained position should be chosen and it should be as handy to the house and garden as practicable1 especially the former as1 once it is planted and plants up and growing1 it will require frequent supervision in the changeable weather of early spring4 ,under a bright sun the temperature rises very rapidly in a glass-covered hotbed and it is necessary to see that it does not rise high enough to injure the plants2 equally the temperature falls rapidly in an open bed when the sun goes under a cloud1 and the sash must be adjusted to meet these deviations of temperature2 often a moment's work in raising or lowering the sash will spell success or failure in the conduct of the bed4 ,a pit or excavation in the ground for holding a supply of fermenting manure to furnish heat for the bed is the first step in the construction of the hotbed2 the size and depth of this will depend somewhat upon the number of plants it is desired to produce and upon the rigors of the climate and the prevalence of late springs and frosts4 ,as a general thing1 for the ordinary home garden a bed three feet by twelve is sufficient1 but the added expense of a few additional feet is so slight and the use of a bed so appeals to one once one realizes its convenience1 that it is seldom a mistake to make it too large as1 aside from the sowing of seed1 it may be used for starting roots of bedding plants1 cannas1 dahlias1 begonias1 tuberoses1 caladiums2 the striking of cuttings and many garden operations that have formerly been done in a bungling1 cumbersome way in the house or with the costly assistance of the florists4 ,the depth of the pit should not be less than three feet and four1 from the top of the frame1 is better1 as it is upon the depth of the manure that the length or duration of the heat depends4 ,a shallow pit will give a quick heat which soon gives out1 usually when most needed1 during a sudden cold wave1 and as the expense of a foot more or less counts for little it is best to be on the safe side and have sufficient heat4 ,if economy must be observed or the bed is for temporary use1 a rough frame of boards will answer every purpose2 it need not even extend below the surface of the ground1 but merely rest upon it1 but such construction is not to be recommended except for temporary structures or where it is desired to remove the frame as soon at it has served its purpose in supplying plants for spring planting2 but a well built1 permanent hotbed has by no means served its mission with the passing of the spring months1 it may be profitably kept in commission the year around4 ,if1 however1 the construction must be along economical lines waste lumber and old window sash may be employed very satisfactorily4 ,having dug the pit of the required depth and width and length--three feet if old sash are to be used will be the best width and is desirable anyway as it can be easily reached across and can be placed close to a building and so occupy much less ground than where the usual florist sash is used1 a frame consisting of four upright posts two by four inches and six feet long for the two rear posts and five feet long for the front1 to give the necessary slant to the frame1 should be used2 on these the boards for the sides and ends should be nailed1 the end boards sawed to a true slant that the sash may rest evenly upon them2 the frame is then lowered into the pit and the soil leveled off around it and made firm so that no cold air finds entrance4 ,to such a frame the sash may be hinged at the back and notched sticks adjusted to hold it at any desired angle4 ,in the permanent cement hotbed the pit is dug as before1 then interlined with boards to form a mould and the space filled in with a good cement mixture1 paddling it smooth on the side next to the boards and allowing the boards to remain in place until the cement has hardened4#a ,before the cement has set1 however1 a frame of two by four must be fitted on top of the cement to receive the sash4 ,long spikes should be driven through the timbers at intervals to be pressed into the cement to insure a good joint4 ,it is also an advantage to arrange for partitions through the bed by nailing cleats of wood on the inside of the wooden form at points where the sash will meet4 ,this will form slots in the concrete into which thin boards can be slipped to separate such plants as require much heat from those requiring less heat and much air4 ,the partitions should not extend much1 if any below the surface of the soil so the slots need not extend below the top foot of wall4 ,these partitions are not really necessary but often come in very handy and are so easily arranged for that their occasional use justifies their presence4 ,where they are employed the sash can be left open where required far more safely than if they were not in use4 ,cabbage and cauliflowers do best if given plenty of air and even a tinge of frost will not injure them1 while it would be fatal to such heat loving plants as tomatoes1 peppers1 eggplants and many tender flowers and bulbous plants4 ,the double sash is a great protection for hotbeds started very early1 but as a rule there is little occasion for starting the beds before the middle of ,march or early ,april in the northern states as it is only necessary to give the plants about six weeks' start of open ground operations4 ,usually we make our out-of-door planting about the twentieth of ,may at the north and correspondingly later as we go south1 but if we count back six weeks from ,corn planting time1 the country over we will have reliable data for starting the hotbed4 ,plants left too long in the bed deteriorate and should be scheduled to be got into the ground as soon as they are fit2 if this is done they will not suffer from over crowding nor will it be necessary to transplant2 though this is always an advantage with certain plants4 ,if to the hotbed is added the convenience of a cold frame to which the cabbage and cauliflower can be transplanted as soon as they show rough leaves it will be a decided advantage and the room thus secured in the hotbed can be used to transplant tomatoes1 peppers and the like1 thus giving better rooted1 stockier plants4 ,fresh horse manure is used for heating the bed and must be procured from stables where a number of horses are kept that sufficient may be obtained at one time4 ,it is not necessary for the small hotbed to pile the manure and turn it over two or three times before putting it into the pit2 much time and labor is saved by putting it at once in the pit1 tramping it down as filled in until it is within five or six inches of the level of the ground outside4 ,care must be taken that it is tramped down evenly1 especially in the corners1 or it will settle unevenly and cause the soil to sink in places4 ,the earth may be placed on at once if the manure is steaming when put in the pit4 ,good1 mellow loam1 containing a portion of humus or leaf mould is the best hotbed soil and it should be fine and free from all roughage of sticks and stones and hard lumps of soil4 ,putting the top inch or two through a sand screen is a good practice as this gives a fine soil suitable for the finer seeds4 ,usually the bed will be in condition for sowing in twenty-four hours1 if the manure is heating well--and this can be ascertained by thrusting a fork down into the bed and leaving it a few moments1 withdrawing and feeling of the tines1 when the temperature can be quite accurately gauged--or a thermometer may be forced down through the soil upon the manure for a test4 ,from four to five inches of soil will be sufficient if the season is late--slightly more if the season is early and the plants likely to remain long in the beds1 and it must be leveled off as flat as possible so that in watering the water will not run and wash the seeds out of the ground4 ,the sowing of the seed is one of the fascinating phases of gardening that every born gardener enjoys and the watching for the breaking of the soil with the tiny green seed leaves is a joy indeed4 ,unlike open air planting1 there is rarely a failure in seed germination if good seed is used4 ,the ideal conditions of warm soil1 mellow1 moist soil of just the right consistency2 protection from changes of weather all make for a high per cent of plants from the sowing1 and the chief difficulty is often an embarrassment of plants--that is they come up too thickly1 a trouble that is easily obviated by sowing quite thinly1 holding back a portion of the seed for later sowings if needed1 or for a later crop4 ,each variety of seed must be given a little plot of ground by itself and should be separated from its neighbor by thin strips of wood pressed into the soil2 this not only helps in identifying plants of similar appearance1 but also prevents the washing together of the seed when too much water is applied4 ,where two or three different varieties of the same plant--as ,early ,dutch ,cabbage1 ,danish ,roundhead1 ,early ,summer1 etc41 are sown it will be well to alternate the plots with some other vegetable so as to leave no chance for mistakes in setting out the plants later on4 ,a row of lettuce or radishes may be interposed if desired2 at any rate the presence of the strips of wood will aid greatly in keeping them distinct4 ,each plot of seeds must be plainly labeled with thin strips of wood marked with the name of the seed and the date of sowing4 ,if seeds of certain plants have been purchased of different seedsmen it will be well to indicate the source on the labels1 in this way one can compare the fertility of the two purchases of seed and decide which is the more desirable4 ,there is a great difference in the germination of different garden seeds1 certain varieties appearing in from three to five days--as cabbage1 radishes1 etc4 ,others--like peppers1 parsley and the like--require from two to three weeks to appear above ground and one should not lose faith in the ,quickness of the seed until a reasonable time has elapsed1 nor will it be desirable to dig them up every day or two to see if they are growing2 this will discourage rather than accelerate the process4 ,if the soil in the hotbed appears dry when sowing the seed it should be carefully watered by means of a fine-nosed watering pot or a whisk broom dipped in water1 care being taken that not enough water is used at a time to wash the soil or disturb the planting4 ,if any seed is uncovered it must be recovered4 ,seed sown under the protection of sash1 either in hotbed or cold frame1 does not require to be covered as deeply as when in the open ground1 often about as much soil as will entirely cover it is sufficient1 always so in the case of fine seed which should be sown broadcast in sections and covered by sifting fine soil or clean sand over and pressing all down firmly with a piece of board4 ,larger seeds may be sown in drills1 opened a quarter of an inch deep and the earth drawn over them and pressed down4 ,plants that make a rather high growth1 even in the hotbed1 like tomatoes1 should not be planted in front of lower growing things1 but should be in the rear or extend entirely across the bed2 tomatoes1 for instance1 are apt to overtop such plants as peppers1 which grow quite slowly in the hotbed4 ,endive1 parsley1 lettuce and onions1 all are plants which do not assert themselves very strongly at first and should not be crowded for room or sunshine4 ,when all the planting is in and the soil watered1 if necessary1 newspapers should be spread over the soil and the bed closed and germination awaited4 ,if the sun is very hot it may be necessary to raise the sash before the plants appear1 but where this is done care must be taken that the papers are not disturbed by the wind1 as if blown about the soil will dry out and check or kill germination4 ,as soon as a plot of seeds breaks ground the little seedlings will need air and light and the paper should be removed from this portion and replaced on top of the glass1 held in place with pieces of wood or anything that will prevent its blowing about2 this will only be necessary until the plants are able to stand full sunlight1 which will be as soon as they have grown their first pair of real leaves4 ,as the young plants increase in size more and more air and sunshine should be given them and due attention to watering must be carefully observed4 ,lath screens to temper the sun will be necessary and will be needed to replace the sash when the plants are large enough to dispense with it during the heat of the day2 these1 in turn1 may be replaced by wire screens if there is any danger of predatory cats1 chickens or children1 for it is the work of but a few moments for an entire planting to be destroyed by any one of them4 ,puss likes nothing better than to get into that nice warm hotbed and roll on the soft warm ground and as for ,biddy6 ,it is surprising the number of things that may be started in the hotbed and transplanted into the open ground as soon as the weather permits1 thus gaining at least a month's start in the garden4 ,a great many of the vegetables that are always sown in the open ground--beets1 string or lima beans1 endive1 lettuce--all may be started in the hotbed and planted out and will give one very tender and succulent vegetables to use while the main crop is maturing from open ground sowing4 ,once one has acquired the hotbed habit one will never have quite room enough for one will always be wanting to try something more4 ,one of the most satisfactory pushing forward of vegetables is achieved in planting melons and cucumbers and squash on pieces of sod in the hotbed4 ,of course cucumbers for pickles should always be sown rather late in the open ground but fruit for slicing for the table may very profitably be started on sod and transferred to the open ground when all danger of frost is passed and so be ready a good month sooner and what is1 perhaps1 quite as important1 escape the ravages of the striped cucumber beetle1 that exasperating foe to vine culture4 ,a cold wet spell at planting time often results in a loss of the entire planting of ,lima and string beans1 but if one has taken the precaution of planting a half pint of seed in the hotbed and transplanting them along about the twenty-first of ,may1 one can wait until the first of ,june1 if necessary1 to plant the main crop and be assured of a successful stand of plants which will bear quite as early as if planted in unsuitable weather and soil2 this is of especial moment owing to the high price of this class of seed2 all varieties of seeds have advanced in price but the difference is most marked in seeds of the various legumes--peas and beans1 of all varieties which command a price that makes especial care in their planting advisable4 ,,cold ,,frames ,supplement effectively the hotbed or1 in mild climates1 take their place4 ,they are1 to all effects and purposes a hotbed--minus the heat--and so do not require the excavation of a pit4 ,the part above the ground is similar to that of the hotbed1 being supplied with sash and given the same slant to shed water and concentrate as much sunshine as possible4 ,for spring use it should front the south and occupy a well-drained position1 but for mid-season use an east exposure is often desirable4 ,if one wishes to use it to transplant things from the hotbed1 then a temporary frame of boards made to bolt together may be constructed that may be taken apart and stored away when no longer required2 if used for transplanting the sash should be in a position a week before it is needed so that the soil may become warm and friable1 then the little plants of cabbage1 cauliflower and the like may be transferred without any appreciable check in the growth and what there is will be advantageous as it will result in the formation of a mass of fibrous roots which will give them an additional chance in the struggle for life in the open4 ,even screens of cheese cloth will give sufficient protection in any but frosty weather and blankets may supplement these on cold days if glass is prohibitive on account of its excessive price4 ,a well-spaded bed of good soil1 enriched with a little well decayed manure--that from last year's hotbed will answer1 or bone meal may be used or a commercial fertilizer1 for the plants will need food at this stage of their growth1 should be prepared and the frame set on this or sunk a few inches into the ground to insure warmth and prevent the ingress of small rodents which somehow show a peculiar penchant for hotbeds and cold frames and have been known to destroy a whole planting of seeds in a single night4 ,a little nitrate of soda scattered between the rows of cabbage and cauliflower will work wonders in the growth of these plants and is to be recommended at this stage of their growth and again when transplanted into the open ground4 ,other forms of plant protection are found in the frameless beds protected by lath screens2 these are used mainly during the summer months and are especially adapted for growing pansies from seed to be transferred to cold frames in the fall and grown on until time to plant out in permanent beds in spring2 for growing violets in like manner and also for starting cabbage seed to be held over winter in cold frames for early spring planting4 ,,the ,,sand ,,box ,is used as an auxiliary to the hotbed for a nursery for those plants which are to be used in the house or conservatory during winter and must be kept in a growing1 but not blooming1 condition during summer and shifted from pot to pot as occasion requires4 ,though mainly essential in the growing of house plants it is often found of much use as a place to carry on such vegetable plants as one may desire to pot off for sale or for stockier growth1 previous to setting in the open ground4 ,the sand box consists of any shallow box of sufficient size to hold a considerable number of two to four inch pots4 ,it should not1 preferably1 be over three feet wide but may be of any desired length4 ,five inches is a good depth4 ,it should be elevated on some kind of support1 at a convenient height to work at when sitting on a stool or box4 ,when used for growing house plants it is usually placed in a rather shady spot on the east side of the house1 but if used for vegetables it may be given a more sunny1 exposed position2 it should be filled with clean sand into which the pots are plunged to their rims and the sand is kept constantly wet4 ,the pots should be turned around in the sand every day or two to prevent the roots1 which escape through the hole in the bottom of the pot1 growing in the sand2 to prevent this also place a piece of broken crock or glass over the drainage hole4 ,in potting off plants from the hotbed use a small thumb-pot at first and re-pot in one a size larger as soon as the roots form a network around the outside of the ball of earth3 this condition may be ascertained by tapping the pot against the side of the box which will loosen the ball of earth and allow it to drop out on the hand4 ,plants that are to go into the ground in late ,may will probably not require re-potting1 certainly not more than once1 but this treatment makes stocky1 well-rooted plants that command a better price than the untransplanted plants from the beds1 though there is always an excellent market for all the products of the hotbed4 ,,sowing ,,seed ,,in ,,flats ,,in ,,the ,,house ,is the simplest1 and least satisfactory form of advance work in the garden2 it belongs in the class of being better than nothing1 but for some plants is quite as successful as a hotbed1 unfortunately that particular class is not embraced in a book on vegetable gardening1 but belongs particularly to flower gardening and the special sorts dedicated to the warm conservatory and window garden4 ,however1 if one has not1 and cannot achieve1 the advantage of a hotbed then one must make the most of what is attainable and resort to flats4 ,these may be of any shape or size1 but the usual florists' flats--about fifteen inches wide and twenty long and not over five inches deep--are of a practical size for general use2 narrower ones which may be set on a window sill are also useful but will not give a large number of plants4 ,very convenient plant boxes which simulate a miniature hotbed1 being about six inches high in the back and about four in front1 of the usual flat size and supplied with a hinged lid of glass1 are sold by the florists but are easily manufactured at home and are better than the open flats as they enable one to regulate moisture1 the principal trouble--owing to the dry air of the living rooms1 the shallowness of the soil1 in growing plants in flats4 ,several holes for drainage should be made in the bottom of the boxes and these covered with pieces of shard or glass and the boxes filled to within a half inch of the top with a good compost consisting of fibrous loam--that shaved from the bottom of sods--leaf mould1 clean white sand and a little well-rotted manure1 all thoroughly mixed and free from roughage4 ,the seeds should be broadcasted1 if fine1 drilled in if coarse1 and the soil pressed down snugly over them4 ,in the case of fine seed it is a good idea to cover with fine white sand instead of soil as this is less subject to the minute fungus which causes the deadly damping off so destructive to plant life and especially troublesome in growing plants in the house4 ,as in the planting in the hotbed1 the seed plots should be carefully labeled with name and date of sowing4 ,after planting the seeds the flats should be set in a pan of water until the surface looks dark but not wet4 ,they should then be covered with a sheet of white paper and glass and set in a warm1 sunny window until germination takes place4 ,then the glass should be raised sufficiently to admit air and the paper removed and placed between the box and the window or a width of cheese cloth may be interposed between the glass and the box to temper the sunlight until the little plants have acquired their first pair of true leaves when they will be able to endure more heat and air which should be steadily increased until on mild days the window may be opened that they may benefit by full sunshine and air4 ,as soon as the little plants are an inch high1 transplant into other flats1 setting an inch or more apart each way1 and grow on as before or until they again crowd each other1 when they may be transferred to small two or three inch pots and the sand box until time to go into the ground4 ,footnote #a3 ,or a trench as deep as the completed pit and as narrow as can be handled may be dug to outline a pit of the required dimensions1 and filled with grout1 well tamped down2 when this has had time to harden sufficiently1 the earth may be removed from the center and the cement given a finishing coat1 and the wall brought to the required height above ground by the aid of a frame of boards4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,planting ,,seed ,,in ,,the ,,open ,,ground ,is important for it is just the form that most of the garden sowing will take4 ,the sowing of seed in hotbeds and flats in the house is of much interest and importance1 but the garden1 for the most part1 will go directly into the open ground1 and upon the care and judgment with which the planting is done will depend the success of the season's work4 ,the ground should be in as good condition for sowing as possible--neither too dry nor too wet4 ,it should1 and this is of much importance1 be warm4 ,the best of seed will not germinate if sown in wet1 cold soil1 especially is this true of peas and beans1 failures with these being almost invariably due to too much haste in planting or unfavorable weather immediately following4 ,it is no unusual thing in a cold1 late spring for these legumes to require repeated replanting and with the enormously advanced price of all kinds of seeds it will not pay to take too long chances by undue haste in planting4 ,usually it is quite safe to plant nearly all of the garden truck by the tenth of ,may at the north but the weather for the recent seasons has been unusual and much loss was occasioned by adhering too closely to an established schedule2 so1 if the season promises to be in any way1 except for earliness1 abnormal1 it is best to go slowly and not trust all one's seed to an initial planting but to hold a little in reserve to replant unfilled areas4 ,cutworms1 too1 have caused much devastation the past few seasons--usually these are troublesome to transplanted things1 mainly cabbage1 peppers and tomatoes1 but last year they destroyed beans and other plants impartially1 causing much loss4 ,in planting a seed drill attached to a hand cultivator will be of great assistance as seed may be drilled in rows or dropped in hills at different distances apart so rapidly that the entire garden may be planted in little more time than it takes to do an hundred foot row by hand1 and the drill will do it better1 opening up the rows1 sowing the seed and covering all in one operation4 ,if1 however1 one is not possessed of this convenient implement one can do very well without by removing one hoe of the hand cultivator1 or by reversing both hoes and bringing the points together and opening a drill to receive the seed and covering it with the hoe or rake1 or it may even be opened with a trowel1 which though laborious1 is a very effectual way4 ,the soil must always be firmed above the seed after sowing1 either by means of a flat piece of board1 with a handle on one surface or1 in the case of large seeds by tramping the rows with the feet2 this firming of the soil is most important1 it brings the soil close about the seed so that the first little root--a very tiny1 delicate little root1 feeling its way about in search of nourishment can come at once into contact with the warm soil and obtain the food and moisture so critically needed at this juncture of its little life4 ,the firming of the soil conserves the moisture1 preventing the entrance of dry1 hot air1 and to obtain this further the ground after being tramped down should be gone over lightly with rake or trowel and a dust-mulch produced4 ,in fact1 all through one's gardening processes one must keep the dust-mulch in evidence for it means conservation of moisture and fertility and freedom from weeds4 ,seeds of different sizes1 hardness and germination qualities1 require different treatment2 fine seeds may be sown in shallow drills1 scattering seeds whose germinary power is known to be low or questionable quite thickly in the drills2 beets are usually sown quite freely1 while radishes--nearly every seed of which may be trusted to grow--may be scattered at about the distance they are wanted to stand in the rows2 beans1 too1 may be dropped at about the distance they will require--six inches or more apart for limas1 and as these seeds are sensitive to cold and dampness it is a wise precaution to set them on edge1 eye down1 in the drills4 ,seeds that germinate slowly1 like peas1 are hastened considerably by being soaked over night in warm water1 and many seeds that require considerable time to start are hastened if warm water be poured into the trenches before the soil is filled in2 this is especially beneficial in very dry soil where germination might otherwise be delayed until after a rain4 ,illustration3 ,an orderly arrangement of garden beds ,it is not necessary that new seed be purchased every spring2 if one has seed of his own saving so that its age is known one can use it with confidence4 ,seed purchased of the seedsman is more or less problematical1 but is usually supposed to be of the previous season's crop1 especially is this true of those seedsmen who produce their own seed on farms located in different sections of the country1 and whose seeds are usually very reliable4 ,however there are many seedsmen1 or jobbers1 who purchase the bulk of their seeds in the open market and cannot guarantee the quality in any way4 ,it is always a great mistake to purchase cheap seed2 it is better to buy seed of a reputable seedsman who puts his name and reputation back of it1 though the price may be considerably higher than one would pay for the same seed of the local store or seedsman4 ,where one has sufficient old seed of different kinds it is a good idea to test them out during the late days of winter and so ascertain their fitness for use4 ,the testing is a simple matter1 warmth and moisture being all that is required4 ,a long tray covered with an inch of sand kept moist may be marked off in squares and the seed it is desired to test scattered evenly over the surface1 labeling or numbering each square1 then a thick piece of flannel should be wet in warm water and placed snugly over all and the tray put in a warm place--back of the furnace1 over a radiator or on the back of the kitchen reservoir if a fire is kept there all the time1 until the seeds germinate2 it will then be seen what proportion germinate and how freely one will need to sow in order to obtain a good stand of plants4 ,if the supply of seed is large a germination test of seventy-five per cent4 will justify its use but if there is only a limited supply it will be better to purchase fresh seed or at least sufficient to supplement the home supply4 ,it is always worth while to save one's own seed if the vegetables have exceptionally good qualities2 this insures trueness to name and often an improvement over the parent stock2 it is not1 however1 desirable where a number of varieties of any vegetable is grown in the same garden as the seed is quite certain to be mixed and the good qualities of the parent stock to be lost4 ,in sowing seed in the open ground cultivation should begin as soon as the seed is sown and covered4 ,in the case of large seed which is tramped down in the rows and covered an inch or more it is not always necessary to rake over the rows for a dust-mulch1 rarely if it is likely to rain immediately4 ,under this condition the rows will be quite distinct and as soon as the rain is over and the ground slightly dried off the scuffle-hoe may be run along the rows restoring the dust-mulch1 or creating one4 ,where the planting is shallow it is an excellent plan to drop radish seeds at intervals along the row as these will appear in from three to five days1 thus marking the rows so that there will be no difficulty in following them4 ,when this is done it will not be necessary to use ground especially for planting radishes so that there will be a saving in room that may be utilized to advantage for other vegetables4 ,lettuce1 too1 may be grown to advantage by planting a short strip of seed at the end of rows of other vegetables1 where full rows are not required1 as this saves space in the garden and the lettuce if placed at the ends of the rows nearest the house is easily accessible and does away with the necessity of walking on the garden after it has been cultivated1 a thing the careful gardener avoids4 ,with the intensive gardening practised on the small plot where the vegetables are planted in close rows from a foot to two feet apart1 the ground should be at all times in a fine tilth1 free from unworked strips and trodden paths4 ,it is of little value to cut off the weeds with the hoe or cultivator if they are to be trodden back in the ground and so given a new lease of life4 ,the scuffle-hoe is a real boon to the gardener in obviating this difficulty as in using it one walks backwards1 pushing the hoe from one instead of drawing it towards one as is done with the common garden hoe2 this leaves a beautiful1 clean tilth1 absolutely free from trampled areas and nothing cut off by the hoe will take on a new lease of life over night4 ,more real work can be accomplished by the use of the scuffle than with any other tool in the garden2 it does not supplant altogether the wheel cultivator but does its work when used alternately with it2 the cultivator breaking up the soil to a greater depth1 and more rapidly than the scuffle1 but the latter destroys far more thoroughly all weeds and reaches closer to the plants1 slipping underneath the leaves and close to the stems and routing out any and all weeds lurking there4 ,the cultivator leaves the ground in ridges and aerates it1 the scuffle levels it again and produces a fine dust-mulch which will preserve the moisture until another rain calls for the use of the cultivator4 ,unless the season is a very rainy one1 one good cultivation a week1 either with scuffle or cultivator1 will keep the garden in excellent shape1 but every rain ,,must be followed by cultivation of some sort1 for there is great loss of moisture if this is not done and weeds follow quickly after rain4 ,the various weeds with which the garden is afflicted come at separate intervals--not all together1 and when one has eradicated one set of weeds there is usually a brief interval before the appearance of the next detachment4 ,but one must have them continually in mind and keep a sharp lookout for the first tiny seedlings and destroy them before they have made even one pair of true leaves4 ,working around individual plants with a trowel or hand weeder has this advantage that it spies out the enemy before it would attract attention if the rows were worked with hoe or cultivator4 ,the severe thinning that such plants as beets1 carrots1 endive1 salsify1 onions and the like require clears the rows of weeds and helps materially in general cultivation4 ,this thinning out should always be done prior to cultivating between the rows1 then the paths are left clear and untrodden and the garden is a delight to look upon4 ,a basket should be carried along the rows to drop the plants removed so that they may be out of the way when ready to run the cultivator4 ,nearly all plants which require thinning may be used in setting out fresh rows of vegetables and where there are vacant places in the rows the spaces may be filled up with plants removed from too crowded areas4 ,the first weeds to appear in the spring are the chickweed and the malice#b that has remained over from the previous year1 being a perennial and a very hardy and persistent one2 these two are ploughed under and give little or no trouble if the work has been well done4 ,the new crop does not appear until late in the season--usually in ,july4 ,purslaine comes along in ,june and soon after appears that particular pest of the garden--red root4 ,all these are very easily eradicated when small but the red root is an exceedingly hard weed to pull once it has got a grip on the ground and it must be taken out root and all or it will come up again with not one but several stout stalks1 and a more tenacious hold than ever on the soil2 it is one of the weeds which are constantly eluding detection until they have gained several inches in height when they defy the hoe and cultivator and call for strenuous hand work6 ,many of the garden weeds may be utilized for feeding stock4 ,belgian hares are fond of the fresh green leaves of malice and pigs enjoy both that and the purslaine and as the former comes at a time when there is little green feed available for the hares it may be pulled and fed rather than turned under4 ,ragweed is relished by horses and they will frequently go into a patch of it and eat it in preference to good clover growing near by4 ,footnote #b3 ,common name malice from its bad reputation2 properly1 mallow 7malva rotundifolia74 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,transplanting ,transplanting is one test of a good gardener1 another is the care of the plants after they are gotten into the ground--the careful cultivation that forbids a weed to show its head above ground1 or a crust to form on the soil after a rain2 these two successful operations spell success in the garden--their absence failure4 ,for several days before the young plants in the hotbed are to be put into the ground they should be hardened by leaving the sash entirely off and by occasionally withholding water that they may be accustomed to the irregular water supply of the open ground1 but the beds should be well watered the night before transplanting that the plants may absorb enough moisture to carry them through the ordeal of transplanting and that the soil may have sufficient moisture to adhere to the roots4 ,the planting lines in the garden should be drawn and the holes for those plants which are to stand some distance apart--such as tomatoes1 peppers and the like1 should be already dug and1 where extra fertilizing is called for1 the hills enriched with a good spadeful of well decayed manure and the ground all ready for the plants4 ,in this way transplanting will go forward with the least possible delay and the plants will suffer little1 if any1 from the change4 ,it is not at all necessary to wait for a rainy spell as so many think desirable2 the most successful planting can be done on a clear1 bright day if the work is handled properly2 indeed this is just the weather that gives best results1 a period of rainy weather with cloudy intervals between is also favorable except for the discomfort of working in the wet but when planting time comes one must not think too much of one's personal comfort1--it is up to one to get things into the ground and growing2 we can be comfortable later on when there is time for it4 ,a rainy spell1 broken by hot1 sunshiny1 muggy days is of all times the worst for transplanting2 plants wilt and die in spite of one1 fairly cooked by the hot steam engendered by the rain and sunshine1 and such planting weather should be avoided unless the season is late and the planting urgent4 ,only as many plants should be lifted at one time as can be put into the ground before they wilt4 ,do not try to lift plants separately but lift them in clumps1 pressing the trowel well down below the roots and lifting the plants with as little disturbance as possible--never pull up the plants by the tops as one sometimes sees done2 this strips off the tender1 fibrous roots on which the plant depends for gathering its food4 ,the tap root which remains has little foraging value1 it serves1 principally1 to hold the plant in the ground while the fine1 lateral roots are busy collecting food to feed the growing top2 if these little feeding roots are destroyed the plant must make a new supply before top growth can be resumed4 ,do not attempt to separate the plants at once but carefully release each plant as it is required2 in this way they retain their freshness and loss from wilting is minimized4 ,make a hole large and deep enough for the roots1 setting them deeper than they were in the hotbed1 and fill in part of the earth1 pressing it down firmly1 fill in the hole with water and when it has seeped away fill in the remainder of the earth1 leaving it dry1 fine and smooth about the plant4 ,each of these three operations may be completed for the entire row of plants before going on to the next3 the plants set in the hole and the first earth drawn up1 then all the holes filled with water and by the time the last hole is filled the first will be ready for final filling in with earth4 ,this is a more efficient method than to complete one hole at a time and keeps the plants in better shape4 ,when the whole planting of one variety of vegetable is completed go over them carefully1 noting any wet spots that may appear on the surface and cover them with more dry earth4 ,remember that it is upon the integrity of the dry mulch that the success of the planting depends4 ,do not try to protect the plants in any way2 if sufficient water has been placed in the hole1 the earth firmed sufficiently and an efficient dry mulch provided the plant will be much better off than if protected in any way4 ,do not water after transplanting until the plants have become established and need it4 ,if for any cause some of the plants show signs of wilting while the dust-mulch is still perfect a hole should be made at one side of the plant and water poured in1 recovering the spot with dry earth4 ,if it rains immediately after planting1 clearing off with fair weather1 the beds must be gone over with the scuffle-hoe to replace the dust-mulch as soon as it can be worked to advantage4 ,one has only to bear in mind that the secret of successful planting is moisture at the roots and dry earth above to succeed4 ,,chapter ,v ,,garden ,,tools ,are so important in the proper care of the garden and for the ease with which it may be worked that only the best should be considered2 the best1 however1 need not be the most expensive1 but they should be the best adapted to the work to be attempted4 ,it is not necessary that their number be large1 indeed1 the number of tools really indispensable is relatively small1 but definite4 ,a good steel garden rake will be one of the first tools required and this should be of the steel variety1 neither too light nor too heavy4 ,get a good spade with a ,d handle that fits the hand and foot4 ,a wheelbarrow of the wooden sideboard construction will also be required2 to these will be added a garden line and a hand cultivator and as this is the most expensive and important tool its selection is of much moment4 ,there are three forms of wheel hoes on the market3 the high single wheel1 the medium wheel and the low double wheel made to straddle the rows4 ,the double wheeled machines have the advantage of working each side of the row1 close to the plants as well as between the rows and if the hoes or cultivator teeth are properly adjusted will do twice the work of a single wheel4 ,some of the double wheeled cultivators are readily changed into single wheels by removing one wheel4 ,too high a wheel is not desirable1 and as the wheel is the part of the cultivator that bears most of the strain it should be of substantial construction4 ,most of the machines on the market have as attachments a set of plough blades1 four harrow teeth and hoe4 ,my own--a ,planet ,junior1 two-wheel cultivator has also an attachment for creating a dust-mulch1 similar to a scuffle-hoe1 but this was made especially for the machine by a local blacksmith and is a very useful addition to the outfit4 ,if one does not object to the extra expense a seeding attachment can be added that will minimize the work of planting the garden4 ,a good machine with seeder that will plant in rows and with all the attachments can be purchased for #af4jj or the same machine which will sow in rows and also in hills #d1 #f1 #h1 #ab1 or #bd inches apart can be purchased for #ai4jj and is a good buy1 for a good machine of this kind1 if properly cared for1 kept under shelter when not in use1 oiled occasionally1 the attachments kept sharpened and given an occasional coat of paint as required is good for twenty years at least4 ,there are still cheaper machines on the market1 single wheel implements with the usual attachments1 that will do good work1 for as little as #e4be and #g4ej1 and two wheelers at #aj4jj and one single wheel that is especially designed for wear1 with an iron instead of wire wheel1 built for service at #g4jj4 ,to this assortment of tools should be added a straight edged garden hoe1 or any preferred shaped edge1 and a scuffle-hoe4 ,this last is obtainable in #f1 #h1 #i1 and #aj inch blade and costs ninety cents for the #f inch and #a4jj for the #i inch size2 the ten inch does more rapid work and can be run between rows planted twelve to fifteen inches wide1 clearing the entire space between in one operation so that one goes over the ground very rapidly4 ,useful in any one's hands it is preminently a woman's tool1 no lame and aching back accompanies its use as one does not lean over in hoeing as with the common garden hoe4 ,if ,i could have but one tool to garden with ,i think it would be a scuffle-hoe1 for no other tool will keep the garden so free from weeds4 ,with the common garden hoe my paths through the garden are usually marked by the wreckage of plants1 for use as much care as ,i can sooner or later ,i get to hoeing too vigorously and off goes a cabbage1 tomato or onion4 ,the scuffle-hoe does not seem to arouse an excess of energy2 one goes along smoothly and serenely1 leaving clean tilth and undepleted rows of vegetables in one's wake and looking back at the end of each row sees that it is good4 ,a trowel--or a number of them is better--is a very necessary implement and because one is prone to mislay trowels1 or leave one at the hotbed when going for plants it is well to have one for each place and either to attach it to a string to one's belt--if only one is possessed1 or to attach a bright red cloth to the handle that it may be identified if dropped among weeds1 loose earth or grass for the trowel seems to have a chameleon like nature and takes on the color of its surroundings and becomes invisible to the eye once it has left one's hand4 ,the bright color will save many moments wasted time in looking for it and has proved its worth on more than one occasion4 ,in purchasing a trowel selection should be made of the sort that has the blade and handle in one2 this construction1 if of steel1 will insure a tool that will last until worn out by use1 the trowel with a wooden handle has usually a flimsy blade and a handle that is not dependable4 ,a garden line and reel that may be purchased for #a4ge is a convenient thing to have when laying out lines for planting1 but a very good substitute can be produced from an old broom handle and a ball of butcher's twine by sawing the handle into two eighteen inch lengths1 boring a hole in one end of each piece and sharpening the other end1 passing the ends of the cord through the hole and making a knot too large to slip through the hole1 makes the line more convenient to handle than if tied around the stick1 as it cannot slip in winding1 or any ingenious boy with simple tools can copy the regular reel in a short time4 ,a very simple1 home made tool for marking rows equal distances apart consists of a straight pole of wood with a cross piece at one end1 fifteen1 eighteen or twenty-four inches on each end from the center pole and provided with triangular pieces at the ends and in the center for markers1 or wooden rake teeth may be set in holes provided for them4 ,this is drawn along the ground and makes one1 two or three rows at one operation4 ,the construction of two or three of these markers is a short job and they save a considerable amount of time in laying out the garden4 ,the twenty-four inch marker can also be used for marking the twelve inch rows by adjusting the pegs4 ,the hand cultivators with seeding attachments have also a marker which while seeding one row marks out the following one4 ,a watering pot and some kind of spraying apparatus for the use of insecticides will also be needed4 ,a rubber bulb with perforated metal top and bent neck1 such as is used for spraying house plants is an excellent thing to use where the use of wood alcohol is indicated4 ,paris green may be applied from a fine-nosed watering pot if liquid form is used or if a dry application is preferred a common mason quart can with the porcelain lining of the top removed and the latter punched full of holes makes an effective distributor when filled with dry lime or flour and ,paris green or hellebore4 ,i have never seen a hand atomizer or spray pump or powder blow gun that was a particle of use2 the tyrian sprinklers1 however1 are practical and useful for spraying in a small way for aphis1 red spider and for squash bugs4 ,a knapsack or auto-sprayer with galvanized iron reservoir can be purchased for #f4be1 with brass reservoir for #i4ej and is a good investment where there are small fruits--currants1 gooseberries1 and small trees--and is profitable for a neighborhood garden investment if one does not wish to go to the entire expense for a small garden4 ,something of the kind is indispensable where potatoes are grown1 though for a small patch hand picking of bugs is preferable4 ,a garden fork will be needed in the fall when the potatoes1 carrots1 parsnips and other root vegetables are to be dug and as wide a one as available should be purchased as the more roots one can lift at a time the more quickly the work will progress4 ,a spading fork is very useful in the garden in loosening the earth about plants1 planted a considerable distance apart1 when heavy rain has beaten the earth down hard and is especially useful for cultivating about berry plants1 young fruit trees and grape vines1 where the use of a spade would injure the roots of the plant4 ,a manure barrel1 while not a tool1 is a valuable accessory of the garden and its use will notably increase the yield of certain vegetables4 ,a large lard barrel is a good sort to use and it must be prepared by burning out the lard which will likely adhere to it1 or it may be washed out with strong soapsuds or lye--a more tedious process4 ,a hole large enough to receive a wooden spigot should be bored a couple of inches above the bottom of the barrel4 ,the barrel should be placed on a firm support--a heavy wooden box answering the purpose1 high enough to allow a watering pot to stand beneath the spigot2 three or four inches of straw are then placed in the bottom of the barrel for drainage and should come well above the spigot hole2 the barrel is then filled full of manure and water turned in until brimming full2 a close cover to exclude flies completes the preparation4 ,when the manure liquid is required it is only necessary to place the watering can in position1 open the spigot and allow the liquid to run until the can is full4 ,after drawing off a supply of liquid an equal amount of water should be returned to the barrel to keep it always full and ready for use4 ,when first established the liquid will be very strong and it will be best to dilute it1 using half water and half liquid1 and liquid manure should never be used when the ground is dry1 but always after a rain or artificial watering4 ,a barrel once filled can be used over and over again until the liquid begins to appear pale in color1 when the manure should be removed from the barrel and fresh supplied4 ,if there is only a limited demand for this fertilizer1 one filling will last out the summer1 but where there are a number of uses for it it will need one or more renewals4 ,any kind of animal manure may be used--that from the horse stable being usually the most available but use may be made of the manure from the cow stable1 the sheep pen or the rabbit hutches1 but not from the poultry houses as this form is too strong to be used in liquid form1 though its use in dry form is excellent for many vegetables4 ,tomato supports are among the useful adjuncts of the garden and very good home made ones can be provided by utilizing the wire hoops that come around barrels1 stapling them to four stout stakes2 by their use a considerably larger number of plants can be grown in a given area and the care and gathering of the fruit will be far pleasanter than where the vines are allowed to lie on the ground4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,holding ,,and ,,increasing ,,the ,,fertility ,,of ,,the ,,soil ,there is no one thing that the gardener so needs to keep always in mind of more importance than that the soil needs additional fertility2 it does not matter how good it may have been originally or how good it was last year2 this year it must have returned to it the food that was taken from it last year by the crop that was grown upon it4 ,any soil that is not virgin soil--soil that has never been used1 and that sort of soil is not available in towns and villages if1 indeed1 it is anywhere in an old1 settled country like ours--must have returned to it1 year after year1 an equivalent of the fertility extracted from it in growing the previous season's crop4 ,it may be that the loss of many seasons must be made good1 it may be that the soil was originally deficient in many1 or only one1 of the elements that make fertility2 probably it will lack that most important element of productive soil--humus4 ,humus1 be it understood1 is that element in the soil that causes it to appear dark4 ,what it really consists of is decayed vegetable matter and it is always found forming the top soil of virgin1 or uncultivated land4 ,it is present in large amounts in woodlands where the falling leaves and surface growth lie on the ground1 year after year1 and decay and form what is technically known as leaf mould4 ,we know how admirably it is adapted to the growing of house plants1 and its value is often erroneously attributed to the plant food it is supposed to contain1 but its great value is not so much in its food content as its influence on the soil with which it is combined2 by its presence it makes the soil retentive of moisture and this moisture in turn unlocks the chemical elements of the soil so that they become available for food4 ,soils that are deficient of humus1 though otherwise fertile1 dry out so badly in summer that unless artificially watered1 they will produce little1 and even where a sufficient water supply is available the result will fall far short of what would have been produced were the supply of humus sufficient4 ,fortunately there are ways of restoring the humus to worn out soils and on the small area of the kitchen garden the process presents little if any difficulty4 ,the most readily available source of humus is found in a liberal application of barnyard manure2 this for the quickest and most satisfactory results should be well rotted1 but not fired or leached--that is1 it should have been saved in such a way that the rain has not washed the fertility out of it in the form of liquid manure1 or lack of moisture caused it to heat and burn4 ,the most satisfactory method of handling manure is under shelter in a cement bottom pit with a depression or well for the liquid contents to drain into2 this is seldom available in the town or city garden1 but an enclosed pen for the manure1 where it can be kept in a compact pile and where water can be turned on often enough to prevent firing1 answers very well2 better still is it to draw the manure on the land as it is produced2 this1 too1 is seldom practicable in the small garden1 but a heavy dressing of manure can always be applied in the fall1 spread evenly and allowed to lie and rot over winter and be turned under in the spring while it is wet4 ,the rapidity of decay1 and hence the availability of the plant food it contains of any vegetable matter turned under in a garden is greatly increased if it is turned under wet1 dry material turned under rots very slowly and may be a detriment rather than a help to the crops that are grown over it that season4 ,if a plant sends its roots down into a mass of dry leaves1 straw or other material it has no chance to gain either moisture or nourishment and must exist on what little its surface roots can extract from the top layer of soil4 ,in spading manure into a small strip of land or a bed ,i usually allow at least one large wheelbarrow to a square yard and this proportion should be observed for the whole garden4 ,practically about twenty tons of manure per acre will be required for good results1 market gardeners often use far more1 or a large1 two horse load for a strip of land fifty feet square4 ,if the land is light and sandy the manure should be well rotted but on clay or heavy tenacious soil fresh manure gives better results as it breaks apart the particles of the soil1 by the expansion caused by heating1 and adds sand1 which is also a mechanical disintegrant1 permanent in effect4 ,there is another way in which humus can be immediately supplied and that is by applications of woods earth or marsh earth-muck1 directly to the soil4 ,where a supply of either form of humus is available it pays well to employ it4 ,for a number of years ,i made a practice of keeping track of available sources of humus1 noting as ,i drove about the country where new land was being broken up and especially where marsh land was being ditched and drained2 then in the spring ,i would engage the owner to haul me as many loads as ,i required1 but as the time passed it became necessary to go farther and farther afield until the cost of hauling became prohibitive4 ,there has been considerable discussion of late in agricultural papers as to the value of raw muck when applied to the land4 ,muck in its unsubdued state is more of a fuel-peat than a fertilizer2 it needs to be subdued by lying out over winter so that the frost may disintegrate it and make it available for plant food1 but ,i have found that it may be made immediately available in its raw state by burying or covering it with a layer of soil to exclude the air and retain moisture2 in this form it gradually changes to humus and plants grown in it do exceedingly well4 ,among interesting experiments conducted to test its use was this conclusive one3 deep holes were dug in beds that were to be planted to bedding plants--cannas1 salvias and the like2 these holes were filled with the raw muck and covered with the soil of the garden and into this the plants were set and the usual culture followed2 the results were surprising2 salvias1 that ordinarily made a growth of about thirty inches reached the astonishing height of nearly five feet and were a mass of blooms2 still more astonishing results were discovered in clearing the beds in the fall when it was found that the muck had practically disappeared1 the plants having literally consumed it4 ,left on the surface of the soil the muck would have dried into a hard1 intractable mass1 fit only for fuel4 ,if one had a supply of raw muck available and wished to apply it to the garden it could be handled by following the plough and shovelling the muck into the open furrow2 the next furrow turned would cover it4 ,it would be of much benefit and would be turned to the surface again in the following spring ploughing4 ,this should not be expected to take the place of barnyard manure1 as it would lack some elements contained in that but it could be combined with such commercial fertilizers as the condition of the soil might suggest--lime1 for instance1 might be indicated by the sourness of the soil4 ,if sorrel is plentiful on the ground it is a pretty good indication that lime is in order1 but one need not depend upon its presence for data as these may be quickly attained by the use of blue litmus paper which may be obtained of any druggist4 ,its use is simple2 if the soil is very wet1 simply pressing a strip of litmus paper down into it and examining it in an hour's time will indicate1 according as it retains its color or turns pink--the acid reaction--the presence of acidity in the soil1 or a cupful of the soil may be mixed with water to a thin paste and the paper inserted with the same diagnosis4 ,lime is more in the form of a stimulant or indirect fertilizer than a real plant-food2 it is in a medical sense an alterative1 changing the nature of the soil4 ,it not only sweetens1 but mechanically1 it binds loose soil1 but flocculates or opens up tenacious clayey soils1 affording freer passage of air and water and lessening the tendency to wash4 ,it should be applied1 on light1 sandy soils at the rate of about five hundred pounds per acre or twenty-five pounds to every fifty square feet of garden plot2 ten times this amount can be used on a heavy clay soil1 but liming of the soil is not necessary every year1 about once in five being desirable1 so that considered as an expense it is nearly negligible4 ,slaked lime is best1 and wood ashes1 which contain about thirty-four per cent4 of lime1 are valuable aids in building up the fertility of the soil4 ,they should not1 however1 be mixed with the manure or applied at the same time as they tend to release the ammonia contained in the manure and as ammonia spells nitrate--the most costly of all our commercial fertilizers--the ashes should rather be broadcasted over the ground after the manure is turned in and then mixed with the soil by dragging and harrowing4 ,there are fourteen different chemical elements that are necessary for plant growth--carbon1 hydrogen1 oxygen1 nitrogen1 phosphorus1 sulphur1 chlorine1 silicon1 calcium1 iron1 potassium1 sodium1 magnesium and manganese2 the first four are derived directly or indirectly from the air1 the remainder from the soil4 ,virgin soil contains all these soil-derived elements in available form and in sufficient quantities for plant growth1 and it has the power to absorb the elements which are derived from the air1 but our short sighted methods of soil cultivation1 or robbery1 deplete the soil of some of its elements faster than it can convert them into available food for the plants4 ,liberal applications of manure replace the loss more quickly and economically than any other treatment and if this is supplemented with such chemical elements as the soil may seem to be particularly in need of the fertility of the soil will be assured4 ,the most economical and practical treatment of the soil would be through the analysis of the soil by a soil chemist2 this can readily be done by sending a sample of the soil to your state agricultural college which will analyze and advise as to its requirements1 or a sample can be given to your county agent who will attend to it and advise you4 ,in this way one works intelligently and wastes neither time nor money in experiments with no definite aim4 ,not all of the fourteen different chemical elements required for plant food need to be artificially supplied2 there are but three important elements which we need to consider in this connection--nitrogen1 phosphoric acid and potash and only one of these may be lacking2 a soil analysis will indicate which one4 ,nitrogen is the most expensive of the three2 it is available1 commercially1 in three forms--organic nitrogen1 ammonia and nitrates4 ,the organic nitrogen is commonly and most economically derived from tankage and dried blood--by-products of slaughter-houses--dried fish1 and refuse from fish canneries and cottonseed meal2 they contain1 approximately--in dried blood1 ten to fifteen per cent42 tankage1 seven to nine2 dried fish1 seven to eight2 cottonseed meal1 six to seven per cent4 ,these decay rapidly when added to the soil and are particularly valuable when applied to light soils1 where nitrates or ammonia leach too rapidly and should not be applied until the crops are up and growing4 ,they make available during their processes of fermentation the phosphoric acid and potash already present in the soil4 ,sulphate of ammonia1 containing about twenty per cent4 of nitrogen is a valuable chemical form in which to secure nitrogen as it does not leach from the soil as nitrate of soda does and so can be made available by the plant without loss4 ,phosphoric acid is found commercially in the form of superphosphates2 these come from phosphate rocks and are first ground1 then treated with sulphuric acid4 ,bone is rich in phosphoric acid and is a very excellent form in which to supply this element to the garden1 as it is obtained in several forms--raw bone1 coarsely ground1 fine ground and bone meal4 ,one may by applying two or more grades secure the fertility of the garden for several years as raw bone decays slowly and will give results for a period of four years while bone meal is immediately available4 ,potash is most economically supplied by applications of wood ashes4 ,but it must be borne in mind that the use of commercial fertilizers is not intended to replace that of barnyard manure1 but rather to supplement it until the soil has regained what it has lost by poor management4 ,commercial fertilizers will of themselves produce a crop1 but it is at the expense of the after-fertility of the land1 just as the application of the whip will spur a jaded horse to one more final effort4 ,liberal applications of manure1 leaf mould or muck and bone meal will bring any land that has soil at all1 up to a satisfactory condition of fertility in a very few years4 ,nor is it necessary to go far afield for the humus for so small a piece of land as a kitchen garden for the material for the finest kind of mould lies right at hand in every bit of outdoors4 ,what nature does in a field and woods she will do in one's dooryard if one will only watch her methods and co-operate with her4 ,in the woods1 for instance1 she shakes down the ripe leaves from the trees1 cuts with frost and age the undergrowth and sends the wind to drift them into piles where she waters and compacts them until in process of time they lose their identity as leaves and plants and become a fine1 black mould1 fine and warm to the touch and blended with a clean1 sharp1 white sand1 or silicate4 ,to imitate her methods successfully we have only to collect the dead leaves in the fall instead of wastefully burning them1 pile them in a heap in some convenient place2 surround them with a frame to keep them from being distributed about the premises by fowls or wind and to the nucleus thus formed add any waste matter--animal or vegetable--that will decay1 about the place--the weeds from the garden1 the wastings from the house and laundry4 ,it is amazing1 once one has started to conserve fertility1 how much one can find to add to this compost heap2 ,i recall that one spring1 from a well-tended compost heap and one horse stable1 ,i had hauled on to the garden ten large1 two-horse loads of fertilizer1 and put the garden in excellent shape1 and not only this1--it had kept the premises tidy as nothing else would have done4 ,the gatherings of the summer and fall will1 by spring1 have rotted down into available form and the action of the soil1 sun and rain will complete the process4 ,the growing of pet stock on a place adds so greatly to the upkeep of the land that it constitutes an object in itself4 ,poultry is an abundant source of manure which may be composted in barrels with alternate layers of soil1 of lime or of any absorbent material or may be piled on the compost heap and mixed with the vegetable matter4 ,to this will be added the litter from the hen house floors which is rich in droppings and full of earth and ground up leaves and straw4 ,but another source of manure1 not enough considered1 is found in the droppings from the rabbit hutches4 ,if one raises ,belgian hares1 as every one who wishes to conserve meat1 should1 one will find that1 in addition to a supply of delicious meat1 one has also produced a valuable garden asset in the form of a highly concentrated manure2 one will also find that one has practically done away with all waste from the garden as the hares will have consumed all the unusable parts of the vegetables--all such early things that run to seed1 as lettuce1 endive1 swiss chard and the like4 ,a large part of the weeds incident to a garden will also be consumed if pulled and offered them1 thus minimizing the weed growth for the coming year1 as every weed consumed means just so many less to appear the following year4 ,it will be many years before the lesson of the home garden so insistently brought before us by the war will be lost1 but we shall not have gained the full measure of its lesson if we do not realize that the critical shortage of meat is not up to the farmer and stockman altogether1 but is a matter for each individual householder to adjust by producing1 as far as his environment will permit1 his own meat supply1 by raising chickens and hares if only room for small stock is available1 and pork if it is possible to find room and feed for a pig--and a pig does not require a great amount of room--a six by eight pen will do and a paddock1 with grass and fresh water1 which need not be more than two rods square1 and reasonable attention to sanitation will render him a contented and unobjectionable member of the family and a very savory and profitable member1 too1 come butchering time4 ,these three things should go hand in hand2--,a garden to produce vegetables for the family2 live stock to consume the waste from the garden and live stock to furnish fertility for the garden2 these three spell fertility for the soil and prosperity for the family4 ,where the supply of manure is limited so that the entire garden area cannot be covered1 quite as good returns may be secured by following the plough with a load of any manure available1 and dropping it in the furrow that will correspond with the planting row--if for corn1 every three feet of furrows1 setting stakes to indicate the fertilised strips4 ,in a small garden fertiliser may be trundled along in a wheelbarrow and shovelled in with fork or spade4 ,this is an excellent plan in preparing ground for peas4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,asparagus ,is one of the garden assets4 ,once established an asparagus bed is good for a lifetime1 almost2 certainly it is a permanent feature of the garden1 showing little if any deterioration if well cared for and kept free from weeds4 ,the starting of an asparagus bed is not the serious undertaking it was a few years ago1 as the deep planting then thought so necessary is seldom practised now2 instead it is thought sufficient to open a furrow--with the plough1 if the planting is large1 with the spade1 if small--set the plants and fill enough earth to cover the crown of the plant1 and1 as growth starts1 to gradually fill up the furrow until the ground is level4 ,the ground should be of the best and heavily fertilised before planting1 for asparagus is a gross feeder and an additional application of coarse ground bone in each hill is well worth while as it furnishes food for two or three years independently of such annual dressing as the bed may receive4 ,for garden culture where hand cultivation is to be practised1 the plants may be set in hills two or three feet apart each way1 leaving room to cultivate between each way for the first few years4 ,two year old roots are the best to use and in planting a little mound of earth should be made in each hill1 the roots of the plant spread out around this so that the earth will fit in beneath1 close to the under side of the crown1 then the earth should be firmed about the roots1 a handful of bone meal sprinkled over the soil and the remainder of the soil filled in4 ,asparagus beds may be set in spring or fall2 good results follow either setting4 ,the asparagus bed must be kept free of weeds and grass from the start as once allowed to become infested with foul seed and grass it is a very discouraging proposition4 ,one of the worst weeds to combat is the young asparagus plants which come up every year from self-sown seed2 to avoid this the tops should be cut1 as soon as the berries are red1 and burned4 ,if the tops are burned on the bed the resulting ashes will be of benefit4 ,it has been my observation for many years that the spots where the tops were burned always gave finer stalks than the rest of the bed2 this suggests the application of wood ashes as a top dressing after the dressing of manure1 which should be applied every spring1 has been worked into the soil4 ,a heavy covering of barnyard manure may be applied in the fall and spaded under in the spring1 or it may be applied in ,february2 if this is not feasible it is an excellent plan to spade into the space between the hills any available manure--poultry1 rabbit or sheep or stable manure that is well rotted4 ,the space between the rows1 or paths1 should not be broken up when this is done as1 if unbroken and hard1 it is easier to keep the beds clean and an application of some good herbicide may even be used to keep down weeds here4 ,when the bed has been thoroughly spaded and enriched in this way in the early part of the season ,i have found the after care of the bed very much more successful than when all over culture was attempted4 ,the variety to plant is largely a matter of taste--some prefer the green1 some the white grasses4 ,lately a preference is being shown for the green4 ,these will always be preferred by those who like a tender asparagus4 ,the white sorts--,bonvilete and ,argenteuile--are unbelievably tough as they appear in the market though beautifully white and of mammoth proportions that make them very attractive2 possibly if cut1 as the green grasses are1 just below the level of the ground they would prove more edible4 ,all asparagus is tough below the ground1 green as well as white1 and1 for this reason1 should not be cut much lower than the surface4 ,of the green grasses ,conover's ,colossal and ,dreer's ,eclipse are excellent sorts1 and ,columbian ,mammoth ,white is a white variety that is good4 ,if one wishes young plants for setting one can obtain them very easily by cutting the tops of asparagus when the berries are nearly ripe and piling them in some convenient place where the ground is mellow and free from weeds and grass and leaving them undisturbed for a year2 the seeds will germinate and produce a large quantity of thrifty young plants that later may be taken up and set where desired1 and all without any care or labor further than the cutting of the tops4 ,one may begin cutting the asparagus when the bed is two years old1 though small stalks will be produced at that age4 ,cutting at this age should not extend over a period of two weeks and in an established bed should be limited to four4 ,all small stalks should be cut and not allowed to grow during the cutting period as they would exhaust the plant if allowed to grow1 but when the cutting period is over they should1 of course1 be allowed to grow4 ,salt was formerly considered essential to successful asparagus culture and certainly does no harm1 but its chief value is in keeping down weeds and this can be quite as successfully done by hand cultivation2 this is better than to form the habit of depending on some quick1 laborless road to clean beds--in the annals of gardening ,there ain't no such animule4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,early ,,spring ,,vegetables ,may be classified under two heads3 those that remain in the ground over winter and are ready for use as soon as the frost is out of the ground and those vegetables that1 owing to the short time required to bring to maturity1 are first available from the present year's planting2 among the first may be cited such forms as asparagus1 parsnips1 salsify1 parsley1 kale1 onions and a few others4 ,the latter class include such vegetables as beets1 lettuce1 radishes1 endive and early peas1 all of which may be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in spring1 but for very earliest results use should be made of the hotbed1 sowing the seed in ,february or ,march according to the latitude and transplanting as soon as the ground can be worked in spring4 ,by doing this from three to six weeks' time may be gained4 ,at the same time that plants from the hotbeds are transplanted seed may be sown in the open ground in adjoining rows or as a continuation of a short row of transplants1 to come into use about the time the first planting is exhausted2 in this way a succession may be maintained and the ground made to produce a more profitable amount of vegetables as seed may be sown where the transplanted vegetables were grown as soon as they are removed4 ,,beets ,which may be planted in open ground as soon as it can be worked in spring1 do best on a fibrous loamy soil1 but any good1 warm1 rich loam will grow them satisfactorily2 the cleaner the ground and the more thorough the cultivation1 however1 the more uniform the crop which will be produced4 ,sow the seed in drills fifteen to twenty inches apart and about inch deep1 covering and tramping down the rows4 ,it is customary to sow the seed rather freely when sown by hand1 but if the seed is good rather better results follow sowing with a seeder1 owing to the more even distribution and the lessened amount of thinning required2 if vegetables of this class did not need thinning their cultivation would be robbed of its chief burden2 unfortunately they do need it and quite drastic thinning at that2 thinning should commence as soon as the beets are large enough to handle1 leaving them standing about one inch apart4 ,in about two weeks another thinning may be given4 ,by this time the young beets will be large enough for greens and they may be thinned to stand two inches apart in the row2 a third thinning will be final and should leave about four inches between the beets2 this will allow room for full maturity and perfectly formed roots4 ,beets are at their best when about an inch to an inch and a quarter in diameter and this is the size which is utilized for canning2 when used of this size about an inch of the top may be left on and they are served whole1 dressed with butter and seasoning4 ,the old ,egyptian beet has long been acknowledged as standard1 but ,crosby's ,egyptian is a distinct improvement upon the old form4 ,it is earlier1 the color fine and the quality very sweet and tender4 ,early ,model beet is a new comer with an excellent reputation and both are good selections for the home or the market garden4 ,in sowing in the hotbed it is not necessary to cover more than a fourth of an inch2 scatter the seed thinly and transplant in about three to four weeks from the sowing of the seed1 or when the plants and weather make the successful planting most assured2 set the plants about an inch to an inch and a quarter apart and in using remove every other one2 this leaves abundant room for them to develop and makes cultivating and freedom from weeds more assured4 ,a light application of nitrate of soda will work wonders in growing early beets2 scatter the nitrate thinly along the rows and cultivate in1 or the nitrate may be dissolved in water and applied from a watering can1 care being taken to apply to the soil only and not to the plants4 ,a handful of nitrate1 about the usual quantity applied to a two-gallon watering-pot of water1 will be sufficient1 or a hundred pounds to the acre--this would amount to about twenty-five pounds to the ordinary garden4 ,beets may be sown for succession up to the middle of ,july and will mature a crop for winter use4 ,late sown beets are less care to cultivate owing to the fact that the season's crop of weeds is by that time pretty well under control4 ,,swiss ,,chard ,has been for several years much exploited by seedsmen as the one indispensable vegetable for the city garden4 ,it is no doubt a dependable source of greens1 making a rapid growth of succulent leaves and is one of the showy1 effective things in the garden that gives an air of abundance and successful gardening unsurpassed by any other vegetable1 but1 in my opinion1 its merit ends right there and if it were not for its value in furnishing green food in the greatest quantity in the least time ,i should not give it space in the garden2 the midrib1 so much recommended for cooking like asparagus1 has an unpleasant1 earthy taste that1 to me at least1 is very disagreeable4 ,its culture1 however1 is so easy that it is worth while for any one who likes it to grow it4 ,it can be planted in the open ground as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring1 or sown in the hotbed and transplanted1 thus gaining three weeks or more2 sow in drill1 scattering the seed thinly and thin out the plants to stand six inches apart in the rows4 ,a light dressing of nitrate of soda will hasten the growth and render the leaves more tender and succulent4 ,this plant does not need to have successive sowings made as by cutting down to the ground it will make a new growth1 and the outside leaves may be gathered1 the same as is done with spinach1 and so produce a continuous growth of tender1 crisp leaves4 ,there are two varieties of the chard1 the ,giant ,lucullus and the ,silver ,beet2 the latter variety being more delicate in flavor1 having less of the earthy taste4 ,a novel variety--a cross between the ,swiss ,chard and the table beet--is now offered by ,luther ,burbank which combines with the usual chard qualities1 much beauty of foliage1 the leaves being gorgeous in pink1 yellow1 green and white and it would certainly add to the joy of gardening to have so beautiful a thing to tend1 for this reason and because the bunnies must have food1 ,i am growing it in my garden this year4 ,,chinese ,,cabbage ,though not a spring vegetable it is so similar in some respects to ,swiss ,chard that it may well be a companion vegetable4 ,it much resembles the ,romaine or ,coss lettuce in its lush1 upright leaves4 ,it should not1 however1 be planted until about the first of ,july as early plantings run quickly to seed and do not develop the fine big leaves of the type4 ,it may be planted in short rows and transplanted to about nine inches apart when large enough to handle4 ,nitrate is again indicated for this quick-growing1 succulent plant and as soon as the leaves have attained considerable size they should be confined by tying with bast or strips of soft cloth1 to prevent their falling apart rather than to blanch them4 ,the outer leaves may be gathered as they mature1 leaving the inner leaves to grow and be gathered later4 ,it is eaten raw or cooked like cabbage1 being more delicate in flavor and without the objectionable cabbage odor when cooking4 ,the large1 fleshy midribs1 stripped off the leaf1 may be eaten raw with salt like celery or cooked like asparagus4 ,when tied up the plant much resembles a very large1 handsome stalk of celery1 but with big1 broad leaves instead of the feathery fronds of the latter plant4 ,,endive ,classes with the foregoing vegetables1 requiring practically the same treatment4 ,it should be started in the hotbed for early use1 transplanting to the open ground when the weather is favorable4 ,as it does not make very rapid growth at first it may as well remain under the favorable guardianship of the warm hotbed until the middle of ,may1 when it should be transplanted in rows1 setting the plants six inches or more apart4 ,when the plants are about two-thirds grown they must be drawn together and tied for blanching1 without which they are unfit to use2 this must be done when the plants are perfectly dry--in the middle of a bright1 sunny forenoon1 being the best time for the work1 otherwise they will rot as they are very sensitive to moisture and prone to decay--as a ,japanese friend said of chrysanthemum seed2--,they are very corruptible4 ,they are a most acceptable addition to salads and combine acceptably with lettuce having a tangy bitterness very piquant1 but it is as a garnish that they excel2 the fringed and curled fronds1 pure white or tinged with green in the less well-blanched specimens1 are beautiful indeed and they may well be grown for this alone4 ,covering with boards is sometimes resorted to instead of tying1 two boards being laid along either side of the row to form a cap4 ,it takes about three weeks to properly blanch endive and the plants should be used as soon as ready4 ,if desired plants may be taken up in the fall and planted in pots or boxes and placed in a light warm cellar or an upstairs window for winter use4 ,as the endive makes a mass of fibrous roots it can be lifted without in any way checking its growth4 ,the ,giant ,fringed ,endive is one of the best kinds4 ,the ,self-blanching ,endive is not a satisfactory sort as it lacks the beautiful color of the blanched sort and is more prone to run to seed2 either sort when running up can be cut and fed to the rabbits and so turned to good account1 in fact ,i consider it worth planting for this purpose alone4 ,the ,staghorn ,endive is an excellent sort for spring growing as1 started in the hotbed and transplanted1 it does not run to seed--a fault most other varieties are addicted to2 this sort may be planted for early salads and the ,giant ,fringed later for fall and winter4 ,like all plants which depend upon rapid growth for crispness and flavor an application of nitrate is beneficial to endive and mellow1 rich soil should be selected for its growth4 ,,lettuce ,for the very earliest use plant seed in hotbed and transplant to open ground about the middle of ,may1 setting the plants about a foot apart if head lettuce is desired and1 of course1 no one who is acquainted with the superior excellence of head lettuce over the leaf variety will care to grow the latter4 ,there are so many excellent varieties of lettuce on the market that one hesitates to recommend any special sort but some are more reliable headers than others4 ,one of the surest headers and an excellent sort to plant in summer as it is more resistant of heat than most sorts1 is the ,improved ,hanson2 this variety makes a large1 globe-shaped head1 so compact that the inner leaves are beautifully blanched and the quality is excellent4 ,for those who like a brown-leaved lettuce and in my opinion this sort excels in flavor all others1 the old ,may ,king is one of the best and should always find a place in the garden whatever other varieties are grown4 ,it is not as large as lettuce and permits of closer planting than ,hanson or ,all ,season--another most excellent head lettuce--a sure header and slow to run to seed2 it makes an immense head--almost as large as a ,flat ,dutch ,cabbage1 with beautifully blanched inner leaves and a fine1 buttery flavor4 ,illustration3 ,gratifying evidences of your own care and industry ,of the loose-leaved lettuce the ,grand ,rapids ,forcing ,lettuce is the best known4 ,this is a good sort to grow in the hotbed and may be allowed to remain after the other vegetables are removed1 resetting to stand a few inches apart4 ,the leaves are upright and loose1 beautifully green and curled and the flavor crisp and delicious4 ,it may be grown to use while the other sorts are heading4 ,romaine or ,coss ,lettuce is the sort served in the big hotels as ,romaine salad4 ,it requires transplanting either from the hotbed to the open ground or from the seed row in the open ground to another row4 ,it should stand about four inches apart in the row as the growth is upright1 rather than spreading1 and when of sufficient size the leaves must be tied together to blanch4 ,it is very crisp and delicious lettuce when quickly grown by the aid of much fertilizer1 good culture and moisture1 but lacking these is rather tough and bitter4 ,nitrates may be used to advantage1 applied along the rows after the plants are transplanted4 ,all lettuce is at best in spring and early summer4 ,it is very difficult to grow good lettuce in hot weather4 ,if a width of cheese cloth is stretched over the row and the soil kept moist much better results can be secured4 ,leaf lettuce is more easily managed in mid-summer than head lettuce and unless one can give special attention this is a better sort to sow for succession4 ,,onions ,are an all-the-year-round vegetable and belong to each season according to how they are handled4 ,for green onions1 early in spring1 the ,white ,potato1 or ,multiplier1 ,onions are deservedly popular2 these are usually raised from sets planted in drills where they are to form a permanent bed and cultivated during summer2 they form a clump of tender shoots which are ready for use in ,may4 ,if1 however1 the bed is neglected and allowed to form sod or weeds the onions deteriorate and become tough and woody2 their principal merit consists in their earliness4 ,for first class bunching onions1 however1 onions with bottoms1 one should sow seed in ,august in a fine1 clean seed bed that has been heavily manured1 scattering the seed thinly in drills one foot or fifteen inches apart and thin the plants to stand two inches apart in the rows4 ,onions are quite hardy and will usually winter without protection but in severe climates a light covering of straw or of evergreen boughs will be beneficial2 this practice gives very fine green onions early in the spring4 ,another practice1 very satisfactory for the home garden1 consists in planting in early spring the old onions placed in storage for winter use2 usually these will have begun to grow by ,march and are useless for cooking1 but if pulled apart and each shoot planted out in good garden soil they will start at once into growth and in a few weeks' time produce a delicious green onion1 sweet and of the utmost tenderness4 ,i have found it a good thing to spade the flower beds intended for the growing of annuals and bedding plants early in the season and plant the onions in these1 thus saving room in the garden and getting a greater use of the flower beds4 ,unlike many vegetables the onion can be grown year after year on the same ground1 providing it is well fertilized each year with barnyard manure1 so that the humus content of the soil is not depleted4 ,clean tilth is essential1 so that as little hand work as possible may be required for onions tops are exceedingly tender and injury to them checks the growth of the bulbs4 ,the garden overalls adopted by many women for working is a distinct advantage in the onion bed4 ,for onion sets sow seed in drills early in spring2 gather the sets when ripe and store in a dry place till spring2 slight freezing will not injure them but they must be protected from thawing and freezing4 ,but for winter onions of notable size and quality the ,new ,onion ,culture should be adopted3--,this consists in sowing the seed in the hotbed in early spring and transplanting to the open ground when the weather is suitable4 ,set the tiny plants an inch apart in the rows1 thin when big enough to use as green onions1 removing every other one leaving them standing two inches apart1 thin again to stand four inches apart and grow on until fall4 ,if seed of ,prizetaker or ,ailsa ,craig are used onions quite the equal of the fancy ,spanish onions sold in the fruit stores will be produced4 ,the soil must be more than ordinarily rich2 besides the spring dressing given the garden before ploughing the space selected for the onions should have well-rotted manure trenched in at the rate of a wheelbarrow load to every square yard3 in trenching lay back a spade's depth of soil across the end of the onion bed2 fill this space with manure1 trench a second row1 throwing the soil on top of the manure1 fill the fresh trench with manure and continue till the whole bed has been worked over4 ,rake the bed until the surface is perfectly fine and smooth and sow the seeds in drills fifteen inches apart or set the plants as directed4 ,onions are occasionally attacked by root lice which if not at once exterminated will quickly destroy the plants2 the lice work on the roots of the onion and the first evidence of their presence is a sickly yellowing of the tops2 if an onion is pulled up and examined the presence of the tiny white lice will at once be evident3 the remedy is salt and the method of applying is to open a shallow trench beside the rows and scatter salt quite plentifully along it1 filling in the earth again2 one application will exterminate the lice4 ,attacks of root lice are by no means common1 but the fact that they do occur and are very deadly should make one watchful for the first sign of discoloration in the tops4 ,when the onion tops show signs of ripening they should be broken down2 this is sometimes done by rolling a barrel over them4 ,a light home-made roller may be easily constructed by taking a length of nine inch stove pipe1 fitting a piece of wood in each end with a hole through the center to admit a bar of wood or iron which should be attached at the ends to a handle adjusted so as to allow the cylinder to roll2 this being light can be rolled over the bed1 leveling two or more rows at a time according to the length of the cylinder2 it can be quickly constructed of waste material about the place and any piece of wood of suitable length--a couple of lathes1 even1 will answer1 will do for handles4 ,it is a good idea when it is found necessary to employ help in cultivating the garden to have a few little jobs like this on hand in case rain interferes with the work2 in this way neither the time of the help nor the money of the employer is wasted and ,i have found that it gives far better satisfaction to the help if there is something of the kind for him to do so that he need not lose his day's or forenoon's work4 ,sharpening tools is another job that it pays to remember in the odd moments4 ,a memorandum of things that can be done when it rains1 tacked up in a conspicuous place in the work room1 toolhouse or barn is a very useful reminder and avoids an awkward delay while one tries to think of something to do4 ,if possible onions should be dug on a warm1 bright day and allowed to lie on the ground until dry and clean2 they should then be stored in a dry1 airy loft or on a scaffolding4 ,on the hay in a barn is a good place for onions and they can be left there until freezing weather1 for the shorter time they are in a warm house the better they will keep4 ,if the temperature drops suddenly a little hay can be thrown over them4 ,slight freezing does not injure onions1 but repeated freezing and thawing does4 ,an upstairs room is better for storing than a cellar unless the latter is unusually dry and not too warm4 ,onions will1 usually1 keep in perfect condition until the middle of ,february or the first of ,march1 when they will begin to grow and should be sorted out1 and the sound ones given a cool1 dry place and sold or used as quickly as possible and the remainder saved for planting in the open ground4 ,,parsley ,so universally used for garnishing and for flavoring soups and salads is of very slow germination and for that reason is more successfully grown when started in hotbeds and transplanted into the open ground in ,may4 ,the ancients held that parsley should never be sown as they claimed that the seed had to make a journey to ,hades and remain six weeks2 when sown in the open ground it seems to bear out that theory1 so slow is its appearance above ground4 ,in the hotbed it requires about three weeks4 ,england1 too1 has its superstition of the parsley1 believing like the ancients1 that it should be planted1 not sown1 that it must make the long journey to the infernal regions and return and that there the devil takes his tithe of it1 for proof of which they point to the fact that a small part only of the seed comes up4 ,a better explanation would be found1 ,i think1 in the quality of the seed1 the home grown seed coming up quite as well as other seed1 the boughten seed sometimes proving unsatisfactory4 ,the ,greeks held the plant in great respect4 ,a crown made of dried and withered leaves was given to the victors in their games4 ,a crown together with a bunch of laurel was dedicated to the god of banquets while all the guests at these feasts wore crowns of parsley under the impression that the herb created quiet and promoted appetite4 ,the ,romans also decked themselves in like manner upon similar occasions because they believed that the plant had the power to absorb the fumes of wine and thus prevent drunkenness4 ,it was parsley that ,hercules selected for the making of his first garland of victory4 ,greek gardens were bordered with parsley and rue1 giving rise to the saying1 ,oh1 we are only at the parsley and rue4 ,as these ancients used the plant in their rejoicing and merrymaking1 so1 too1 it was brought into use in their funeral decorations4 ,sprigs of the herb were strewn over their dead4 ,according to old folk lore parsley should be sown on ,good ,friday4 ,parsley is a biennial plant1 making a fine clump of edible leaves the first year which in mild winters or protected positions survives the winter and starts into growth the following spring4 ,it soon1 however1 runs to seed and is of no further value except to produce seed4 ,if1 however1 one wants a small supply of parsley without the annual trouble of sowing and transplanting a small bed of it may be allowed to go to seed and self-sow1 when it becomes1 practically1 a perennial but does not attain the fine quality that the specially grown plant does4 ,a single row through the garden will furnish parsley for an entire neighborhood as the older leaves are gathered as needed and the crown allowed to produce new leaves2 this should be done whether the leaves are needed or not as the quality of the new growth will be finer in every way1 for leaving the old leaves to mature checks the growth of the crown leaves4 ,nine inches at least should be allowed between the plants and twelve is better1 though when the tiny plants are first transplanted it may seem a long and lonely distance between them1 but the plants soon fill up the space4 ,very little cultivation is needed between the plants when once they attain full size2 the plants are so dense and spreading that they effectually choke out the younger weed growth1 but the space between rows should be kept clean4 ,of the varieties to plant1 only the fine moss curled should be selected4 ,the ,champion ,moss ,curled is a standard sort and one of the best1 rich green in color and so crumpled and curled as to have the appearance of moss4 ,nearly all florists or seedsmen have their own especial brand of seed and one can select those which promise the best product4 ,if desired bunches of the parsley may be lifted in the fall and potted or planted in window-boxes for winter use4 ,they make a most attractive plant for the window and a pot of parsley1 one of well-blanched endive and one of red celestial peppers make a most cheerful window decoration for the kitchen or dining-room1 as well as furnishing crisp decorative material for the table4 ,,parsnips ,may be classed among the early spring vegetables as they are planted as early as the ground can be worked in spring and are likewise ready for use as soon as the frost is out of the ground so that they may be dug2 like all root vegetables they require rich1 deeply dug or ploughed land4 ,not less than twelve inches in depth is required for successful cultivation2 with shallow cultivation crooked and many branched roots are produced which are unsalable and of little value for home consumption4 ,the long1 smooth1 beautifully white roots--two inches or more at the crown1 are only produced in well-prepared soil4 ,parsnips are planted directly in the open ground as soon as the ground can be worked in spring1 sowing the seed in drills an inch and a quarter deep1 covering and tramping down the rows if the weather is dry4 ,they should be thinned to stand from four to six inches apart in the row that the roots may make perfect development4 ,the rows should be eighteen inches apart and the ground kept loose and clean throughout the growing season4 ,the usual practice is to let the parsnips remain in the ground over winter1 taking up and storing in boxes of slightly moist earth or sand1 in the cellar1 a supply for winter use4 ,the parsnip is improved in quality by a touch of frost but must be dug before growth starts in the spring4 ,parsnips are eaten quite readily by ,belgian hares and imperfect or small roots may be sorted out and fed to them1 avoiding any loss in grading4 ,,peas ,of the very earliest kinds1 and that is distinctly the smooth peas1 should be gotten into the ground very early in spring4 ,most of the early sorts will stand considerable cold1 but the wrinkled sorts are tender and should not be planted until the weather and soil are warm and reasonably dry4 ,more failures in growing peas come from planting in cold1 wet soil1 in a mistaken hurry to get early peas than from any other cause4 ,ground for peas should be very rich2 it is not sufficient that the garden plot has been well manured before ploughing2--the strip allotted to the growing of peas should have additional fertilizer trenched in1 especially is this necessary in growing the wrinkled sorts and especially the dwarf peas1 such as ,nott's ,excelsior and the like4 ,these dwarf peas cannot bear a big crop on their abbreviated tops unless forced to production by heavy feeding1 but as the wrinkled1 medium early and mid-season peas are the most delicious of all in quality1 the extra care required is well repaid4 ,another object in heavy fertilizing is that by this means a succession of peas may be grown on the same ground4 ,personally ,i prefer peas that require support to the very dwarf sorts2 in the first place you have more vine for the production of pods4 ,you cannot1 with the best intentions1 get as big a crop from one foot of vine as you can from three1 all things being equal4 ,again1 the labor of gathering pods from upright growing vines where the pods are easily seen and reached is far less than from the prostrate vines which must be lifted or looked under in search of pods4 ,wire netting furnishes a better support than brush and where the gardener is a woman is much pleasanter to work about4 ,brush has an unpleasant habit of catching on the clothing and twisting around1 often to the injury of the vine1 but the netting gives a firm support1 to which the vine readily attaches itself4 ,in the home garden the best way to plant peas is in double rows a foot apart1 making the trench about three inches deep and dropping the peas as evenly as possible4 ,early sown peas do not require as deep planting as the wrinkled sorts which may be planted four or five inches deep to avoid blight4 ,as the wrinkled sorts are very tender they should not go into the ground before corn planting time and not then unless the nights and soil are warm4 ,an excellent arrangement for a succession of peas in the home garden is to prepare the rows by trenching in manure and then make two furrows a foot apart and in one furrow plant the earliest peas and in the other a second early pea1 stretching a four or five foot width of wire netting between the rows2 this extends the bearing season a couple of weeks4 ,when all the pods have formed on the earliest varieties of vines a second furrow may be opened beside it and a wrinkled sort of medium earliness be planted2 these will be ready to climb about the time the first vines are turning yellow when they may be pulled up1 leaving their place for the new vines4 ,this system of succession of planting may be repeated on the other side of the netting1 thus giving four sowings of peas to one strip of netting and a succession of peas for several weeks4 ,the germination of the seed may be hastened by soaking the seed over night in warm water and when sowing unsoaked seed1 in dry weather1 germination is hastened by pouring hot water into the trench before covering the seed4 ,the experienced gardener will have his pet variety of peas but the amateur will be somewhat afield in selection so ,i would suggest as a desirable early sort the ,gradus or ,prosperity ,pea1 a delicious sort of the tall kind that has much to recommend it4 ,american ,wonder is another extra early pea of a wrinkled sort that appeals to those who prefer a dwarf pea1 being but a foot in height and compares in general excellence with ,nott's ,excelsior4 ,on the same trellis with ,gradus may be planted the ,senator ,pea2 this is a number one pea in every respect--quality1 quantity and appearance2 following these one may plant more ,senators and the ,telephone2 these will give a succession of peas for several weeks4 ,so many enemies conspire against the pea that close watch must be kept from the planting of the seed until the plants are well above the ground4 ,usually the chief depredation comes from moles which run along underneath the seed and destroy it2 poisoned bait placed in the trench along with the seed often destroys the moles before much damage is done4 ,a mole trap set at each end of the row or at the point where the mole enters the run will often prove effective4 ,a very successful home made trap consists of a large can or crock--a lard can is good1 sunk in the ground and a trap consisting of a long1 endless box with about a third of the bottom sawed apart and pivoted on nails driven through the side1 so that anything entering at one end will drop through the swinging trap into the can beneath1 which should be kept full of water2 this arrangement will catch more moles than any steel trap with which ,i am familiar1 and as the presence of the moles in the garden threatens other vegetables as well as the peas it will be time well spent to prepare one or more of these traps for use when occasion arises2 the making of these traps may well be put on the list of rainy day tasks4 ,cutworms sometimes take the peas as fast as they appear above the ground2 poisoned bait along the rows before the peas break the ground will dispose of this enemy4 ,blackbirds often destroy a planting of peas before their presence is suspected and ,english sparrows have been known to do much damage1 so if one would enjoy fresh1 home grown peas one must exercise due vigilance4 ,the use of ,mulford and other cultures for inoculating peas is growing in practice among the most progressive gardeners and is a very wise precaution to take2 especially is it desirable in intensive culture suggested by growing two crops of peas on the same strip of land4 ,peas1 like all legumes1 are nitrogen feeders and gatherers and the use of the culture supplies the young plant1 at the start1 with nitrogen and puts it in shape to begin the accumulation of nitrogen from the air by its own efforts4 ,the nitrogen gathered from the air is stored up on the roots in the form of nodules or bunches1 and it is for this reason that the growing of all legumes is so beneficial to the soil4 ,if when the first planting of peas is matured and gathered the vines are cut or broken off close to the ground1 instead of being pulled up1 root and all1 this supply of nitrogen will remain in the soil and be available for the succeeding crop4 ,the inoculating of the seed is very simple3 the small bottles1 which1 by the way1 cost but twenty-five cents for garden size1 are only one-fourth full2 simply fill up the bottle with water and moisten the seed before planting2 this is all1 and the same bottle will supply inoculating material for the beans which also being legumes respond favorably to the treatment4 ,,radishes ,a few radishes may be grown in the hotbed for very early use1 but the main planting should be in the open ground4 ,it is hardly worth while to devote any definite part of the garden to radishes as room can be found for them among the other vegetables4 ,an excellent way to grow them is to drop seeds at intervals along the rows of beets1 carrots1 parsnips and salsify4 ,all these seeds are slow in germinating and by dropping in occasional radish seeds which germinate in from three to five days the rows will be marked so that they may be kept cultivated without waiting for the plants to appear and indicate the rows4 ,a surprising amount of radishes will be grown in this way1 without any special labor and loss of ground2 and they will be out of the way before the ground is needed for the permanent occupant of the row4 ,the turnip rooted sorts are the most quickly and easily grown1 the ,twenty ,day as its name indicates being ready for use in twenty days and the ,french ,breakfast and ,improved ,breakfast ,radish being ready in twenty-five2 both of these are very tender1 crisp and mild sorts and beautiful in appearance1 white at the base and scarlet above1 making a beautiful appearance when prepared for the breakfast table with a bit of the green top for contrast4 ,for those who prefer a white radish the ,icicle ,radish is a fine sort1 crisp and tender and does not grow coarse or pithy until quite large4 ,if one wishes to devote a definite space to radishes and maintain a succession of plants it will be a good plan to drop a seed in the ground for each radish pulled2 in this way there will be a constant supply of young1 crisp radishes all summer4 ,where only a few are desired it is a good plan to plant a short space of the rows devoted to other vegetables to radishes and lettuce and perhaps a few plants of endive and parsley next to the path and near the house so that they may be easily got at without walking on the newly cultivated ground4 ,,salsify ,is another plant that is started very early in the spring and eaten as soon as the frost is out of the ground4 ,it is one of the most useful and delicious of this class of plants and is not nearly as much cultivated as it should be4 ,sliced and cooked tender it makes1 when combined with milk1 seasoning and cracker crumbs1 a most acceptable substitute for oyster soup or1 cooked1 mashed and mixed with a little flour and seasoning and butter1 dipped in egg and bread crumbs1 it makes delicious little cakes when fried4 ,its culture is simple1 any good1 light fertile soil producing a good crop1 but to produce clean1 smooth roots it should be deeply dug and well cultivated4 ,sow the seed in shallow drills early in the season2 thin to stand six inches apart in the row4 ,it is hardy and may remain in the ground all winter1 but a supply for winter use should be dug at the approach of cold weather and stored in boxes of sand or earth in the root cellar4 ,as soon as the frost is out of the ground in spring and before growth starts they must be dug4 ,if it is desired to grow seed the plants should be set out again1 or may be left where they are if the ground is not needed for other vegetables1 and cultivated the same as seedling plants4 ,,spinach ,the most important of the vegetables grown for greens1 should be sown in the open ground as early as the ground can be worked if wanted for early spring and summer use4 ,for fall and winter use sow in ,september4 ,for a succession sow every two weeks4 ,sow in drills one foot apart and one inch deep1 in soil as fertile as one can compass2 the soil cannot be too rich for spinach1 as upon the rapidity of its growth depends the tenderness and succulence of its leaves2 in poor soil1 especially if allowed to suffer for water1 the leaves will be tough and ill-flavored4 ,light applications of nitrate of soda have a magic effect on spinach and should be applied lightly every two weeks4 ,the ,round ,seeded ,savoy is a standard sort1 with thick1 fleshy leaves1 curled and crinkled2 the ,new ,zealand is a good sort for summer as it withstands heat well and is slow to run to seed4 ,in gathering the spinach the entire top may be cut off a bit above the crown2 this induces a new1 quick1 tender growth of leaves4 ,in planting for spring and winter use the beds should be covered with straw at the approach of cold weather4 ,spinach often self-sows and gives a volunteer crop the following spring4 ,when the spinach begins to send up seed stalks it may be cut and fed to the rabbits and so waste that would otherwise ensue may be avoided4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,mid-,,season ,,vegetables ,,beans ,being somewhat tender1 should not be planted until the ground is warm in spring4 ,corn-planting time will do for the field and navy bean1 but the white podded string bean and the lima bean should not go into the ground until all danger of frost is past and the ground is in growing condition4 ,at the present advanced cost of seed--fifty-five cents a pound for the string and lima sorts with postage added by some dealers1 it will not do to take any chances by being in too much of a hurry to get seed into the ground2 neither will it pay to buy seed of any but reliable dealers4 ,there has never been a time when so much importance attaches to choosing one's seed merchant wisely4 ,cheap seed never pays1 for the time lost in replanting seed of poor germination1 or1 worse still1 that comes untrue to name1 giving one inferior or mongrel vegetables1 offsets1 many times1 the amount saved in money4 ,string beans are the first form in which this favorite vegetable appears on the table and a very delicious and attractive dish they make when such white wax or golden wax as ,wardwell's ,kidney1 ,davis's ,kidney ,wax1 ,improved ,golden ,wax are selected2 well grown plants of these varieties1 well laden with their long1 wax-like pods are a joy to the gardener2 and if the pods are gathered as fast as they mature1 and this may be done as soon as they whiten1 up to the time they are fully grown1 when they will still be sweet and tender1 the bushes will continue to bear heavily until cut down by the frost2 this should always be done whether the beans are wanted for use or not2 they can be canned1 sold1 or given away or fed to the pig--anything rather than to check the vines' bearing4 ,if one wishes to save seed for the next year's planting1 and this is worth while when such high prices prevail1 it will be well to set aside a row1 or portion of a row1 for seed1 allowing the first pods to ripen as this establishes the early bearing characteristic of the plant4 ,in planting beans good soil should be chosen1 but beans do not need rich soil as many other garden vegetables do4 ,it is said that beans will grow on soil that will not grow anything else2 this is rather an extreme statement1 but it is a fact that they will thrive where more exacting plants will languish2 this is accounted for by the fact that the bean is a legume and so empowered to draw an important part of its nourishment from the air in the form of nitrates1 which it stores in little pockets or nodules on its roots and so has a larder of its own to draw on4 ,open a drill a couple of inches deep and drop the beans at regular intervals two or three inches apart1 or they may be planted three or four in hills1 six inches apart2 cover and tramp down the rows and draw the rake lightly over them4 ,except for the distance at which they are planted1 all beans require practically the same treatment2 they should never be cultivated when wet or gathered or handled in any way2 the rule should be to give them a wide berth in wet weather2 working among them when wet is the cause of the disfiguring rust that makes them unsalable and in bad cases uneatable4 ,wardwell's and ,davis's ,kidney ,wax are as free from rust as any of the white podded varieties and are the best selections the amateur gardener can make4 ,for those who like a green podded bean the ,stringless ,green ,pod is a fine variety and very popular with gardeners4 ,giant ,stringless1 ,green ,pod and ,longfellow make up a trio of beans hard to beat4 ,boston pea bean or navy bean is the best selection for baked beans2 these should be allowed to ripen their pods until quite dry4 ,the usual method of harvesting is to wait until all the beans are ripe in late summer and harvest by pulling the vines and piling in heaps until dry2 this is not an economical way1 however1 nor specially adapted to the small home garden2 a better way is to gather the pods as fast as they ripen1 storing them in a dry1 airy place until ready to shell easily2 if this is done many more beans will be produced and there will be no loss from the earlier beans shelling out on the ground as they will when the vines are left for the entire crop to ripen4 ,usually it will be necessary to go over the vines about four times but the result will be a much greater quantity of beans and all in the finest possible condition2 when left until all are ripe it will be found that there is a considerable amount of mouldy or injured beans4 ,lima beans require somewhat different treatment from the string or navy bean2 to begin with they require a much richer soil and the ground should be well manured and a supplementary dressing of hen manure1 rabbit droppings or ashes about the plants when well established will be of much benefit2 they require more room in the row than the string beans1 not less than eight or nine inches with the rows two feet apart2 the beans should be planted about two inches deep1 setting the seed with the eyes downward and covering and tramping the rows4 ,rather late planting is advisable for limas than for string beans and for very early beans a few may be started in the hotbed and transplanted in the open ground about the twentieth of ,may at the north--add or subtract a week for each hundred miles north or south4 ,the bean1 having no tap root and a broad spread of lateral roots1 is one of the easiest plants to transplant and by starting a hundred plants in the hotbed a much earlier crop will be obtained2 that will be filling up the time while the open air planting is coming forward4 ,another very important advantage in starting seed in the hotbed is the larger per cent4 of plants obtained2 if good seed is used every one may be depended upon to grow4 ,the hotbed also affords protection from the enemies that destroy the lima1 one of the most destructive being hens1 and it will be wise to assure ,biddy's absence from the garden until the beans are showing their first leaves as the succulent looking white seeds that first break through the ground have an irresistible attraction for her and she will walk along the rows1 nipping off every pod as it appears2 this seems to be due to curiosity as she does not eat1 but drops them on the ground2 ,i have seen whole plantings of lima beans destroyed in this way4 ,english sparrows also are known to destroy the tops4 ,string beans do not offer the temptation that the limas do so are seldom molested4 ,for the home garden the bush limas are to be preferred as they take less room and are easier to handle4 ,the ,improved ,fordhook ,bush ,lima is one of the best varieties if not the best4 ,the ,new ,wonder ,bush ,lima is highly recommended4 ,beans may be planted every two weeks for succession up to ,august4 ,dry limas that remain on the vines in fall may be used for cooking in winter4 ,limas are not injured by light frosts as much as the other varieties of beans2 the pods cuddling under the thick foliage are protected and one can frequently gather a mess after the frost has cut everything else in the garden2 the thick pods1 too1 are a protection to the beans inside4 ,if it is desired to grow pole limas set the poles four feet apart each way and plant five or six beans to each hill and thin to three when the plants are up2 when the plants have reached the top of the pole pinch out the top2 add a spadeful of well-rotted manure to each hill before planting1 mixing it thoroughly with the soil4 ,carpenteria is about the best of the pole limas and ,early ,leviathan ,lima is another good sort4 ,wire netting may be used in place of poles and will be found more convenient and economical4 ,treating the beans with farmogerm1 ,mulford or other culture is advisable4 ,,cabbage ,for early cabbage sow seed in the hotbed or in flats in the house and transplant to the open ground in ,may4 ,cabbage are not injured by light frosts and can go into the ground earlier than most other garden stuff2 usually the early sorts are selected for first planting but the late and winter sorts will1 if started in heat1 do about as well as the early2 it is largely a matter of handling4 ,the ,late ,flat ,dutch is an excellent sort for the first planting as it is a very sure header1 giving large1 flat heads of the best quality4 ,in twelve years' experience in growing this variety ,i have never found a diseased plant nor1 except in a year of very exceptional weather1 a soft head4 ,they keep well over winter and are altogether a very satisfactory all round cabbage4 ,in transplanting the plants from the hotbed to the open ground all but the upper pair of leaves should be removed and these may have the upper half clipped2 this gives the roots a chance to establish themselves before they are called upon to support top growth4 ,set the plants about two feet apart each way1 or the rows two feet apart and the plants twenty inches2 the nearer distance is tenable if one raises rabbits as the lower leaves may be removed and fed to them1 thus giving the plants more room2 they should close up the gaps between them when fully grown as this shades the ground and conserves moisture--an important feature in a dry season4 ,the ground should be kept well cultivated and free from weeds as long as work can be carried on among them and when the cultivator can no longer be used the scuffle-hoe can be introduced under and between them without injury to the leaves4 ,in hoeing or cultivating draw the earth up towards the plants4 ,when the heads are filled out and hard and it is not desired to gather them they may be kept from splitting by pulling the roots loose on one side and bending them over4 ,the principal enemy of the cabbage is the white butterfly and its offspring--the green caterpillar4 ,there are many ways of combating this pest2 the most effectual way1 early in the season is dusting with ,paris green mixed with flour4 ,a convenient way to apply is to take a quart ,mason jar1 take the lid1 remove the porcelain lining and punch the top full of holes1 fill the can with flour mixed with one teaspoon of fresh ,paris green and sift over the plants while wet with dew at the first appearance of the pest2 this should not be used after the heads have formed2 after this sprinkling with salt and working it in between the loose leaves of the head is often effectual4 ,dusting with dry earth sometimes has a deterrent effect on the worms4 ,the grey aphis is another most troublesome pest2 this comes so insidiously that the plants are well infested before their presence is suspected4 ,spraying with kerosene emulsion is sometimes effectual if the heads are not too far advanced4 ,spraying with zenoleum--a tablespoonful to two quarts of water--will kill every louse it touches and by its odor discourage any intending arrivals1 but this should not be used where the heads are at all advanced1 though a hard rain would rid the plants of the odor of both zenoleum and kerosene4 ,soapsuds1 especially whale oil and nicotine1 are suggested and hand picking of worms is not without its value4 ,spraying with hot water #adj is effectual and safe and cleanses and stimulates the plants4 ,cut worms are very destructive to cabbage when first set out2 their depredations may be guarded against by enclosing the stem of the plant in a band of stiff paper when planting2 this should go into the ground an inch and extend up the stem two or three inches4 ,strewing poisoned bait along the intended rows for a night or two is suggested but this is a dangerous practice where there is poultry at liberty2 baiting after the plants are set is often successful1 too1 but the best safeguard is to have a good supply of surplus plants in the hotbed4 ,the rows should be looked over the first thing in the morning after planting to discover what plants have been cut and wherever a plant is missing the worm should be looked for1 and when found killed2 this is really the most satisfactory way of eradicating the pest4 ,the worm never goes more than two or three inches from the plant and will be found somewhere just below the surface of the ground1 usually under some bit of roughage that makes a little hollow4 ,if there is a piece of sod or clover-land near the garden the cut worms will usually begin their work from that side and if a planting of cabbage is made a few days in advance of other plants this will serve as a trap for the worms and hunting and killing them for a few days will make the planting safe for the tomatoes1 eggplants1 and peppers4 ,a little nitrate of soda sprinkled around the plants is a great incentive to growth4 ,for winter cabbage sow seed in the open ground in ,may and transplant into permanent rows as soon as large enough1 giving the plants more room than early cabbage4 ,late ,flat ,dutch1 ,wakefield1 ,danish ,roundhead and ,dutch ,winter or ,hollander are all good sorts which will prove good keepers and sellers4 ,if in setting out plants of winter cabbage it is found that there are more plants than are needed1 they may be allowed to remain where they are and given a little protection1 such as boards1 cornstalks or evergreens1 and can be used for setting out the following spring4 ,,cauliflower ,require the same general treatment as cabbage4 ,they are set somewhat closer in the rows and cultivated the same as cabbage2 however1 for the best results it is desirable to transplant the cauliflower from the hotbed into cold frames as soon as they have their second pair of leaves1 setting three inches apart each way and as soon as they resume growth giving a light application of nitrate of soda1 then transplant when the weather is favorable4 ,cauliflower are quite hardy and not injured by early fall frosts1 making steady growth until severe cold weather and many heads that have failed to fill during the fall will fill out finely in ,november4 ,as soon as the curd1 or head1 forms and has made a little size the leaves must be drawn over it and tied to exclude rain and light2 this must be done when the plants are perfectly dry and the weather clear1 a sunny day about noon is the best time for the work4 ,if tied up when wet or damp the heads will rot4 ,if not tied up growth will start in the heads1 they will turn purple and green and be unfit for food4 ,it is upon the successful tying up of the cauliflower that its successful culture depends2 like the cabbage it requires a rich1 well fertilized soil and applications of nitrate of soda once a week during the growing season will hasten the development of the head2 wood ashes1 too1 are beneficial4 ,the insect enemies of the cauliflower are those of the cabbage1 but they molest it in a somewhat lesser degree4 ,the remedies to be employed are the same4 ,there are two important varieties of cauliflower--the ,snowball and the ,dry ,weather4 ,the former is a poor cropper in dry seasons unless artificial irrigation can be supplied4 ,the ,dry ,weather ,cauliflower1 on the other hand1 seems to be at its best in a dry season and will give fine heads when the other fails4 ,as one can not forecast what the rainfall of any given season will be it is well to be provided against any contingency by planting both varieties of cauliflower2 by this forethought one will be assured of a crop whatever the weather and the snowballs that failed to head during ,august and ,september may come on in ,october and ,november and give a late crop for pickling4 ,in the majority of gardens cauliflowers are grown exclusively for pickling2 this is a mistake for there is no vegetable more delicate and toothsome than this2 it outclasses cabbage and when fried in batter or breaded with egg and cracker crumbs1 it affords a most excellent substitute for meat1 indeed1 it is really more acceptable when no meat dish accompanies it2 for this reason--its desirability as a table vegetable--special pains should be taken to produce early heads1 by starting in hotbeds1 transplanting into cold frames1 fertilizing with nitrate and giving special attention to thorough cultivation throughout its growing period4 ,if water can be supplied1 a thorough drenching of the roots once or twice a week1 followed by a cultivation the following morning to restore the dust-mulch1 will be of much benefit4 ,the green cabbage worm is sometimes very troublesome on the heads and leaves of cauliflowers and one should watch for the presence of the white cabbage butterfly as this will indicate whether one may expect an attack of caterpillars4 ,if once the worms have become established spraying with hot water of from #acj to #adj will exterminate all with which it comes in contact1 as worms are far more sensitive to hot water than are the plants which they infect4 ,,corn ,is one of the most profitable of the garden's offerings2 there is1 practically1 no loss connected with it2 a delicious vegetable for the table in its green state1 fresh from the stalk2 it is equally welcome when it appears sweet and toothsome from the can in winter or1 conserved in a dried state1 is soaked and cooked the same as fresh corn4 ,there is no waste in the unused corn that remains ungathered on the stalks for it may be saved for seed another year or fed to the poultry1 while the stalks1 cut and cured1 make excellent feed for cow1 horse or rabbits4 ,cut while green and made into ensilage it is the best substitute for green feed in winter for any animal that eats green food4 ,much green feed for stock may be secured from the corn patch in summer by removing all the side shoots that do not bear ears and feeding them to the pigs or rabbits4 ,this is of benefit to the corn as it allows all the strength of the plant to go into the ears instead of being wasted in growing useless foliage4 ,corn is a gross feeder and requires a deep1 mellow1 fertile soil1 well enriched with barnyard manure4 ,clover sod well manured and ploughed will give the maximum amount of corn1 but any good soil if fertilized will produce good corn4 ,corn is somewhat tender and should not be planted until the ground is warm1 but in the small home garden where a small amount of seed is required a little risk may be run by planting early in ,may and replanting if an early frost catches the crop4 ,it is not1 as a general thing1 the spring frost that does the most damage1 especially with field corn1 it is the late frost that catches the corn still in the milk that does the damage1 so that anything that pushes the crop along to maturity before danger of fall frost is of moment4 ,this is one reason why heavy fertilizing is so important1--it speeds up the maturing of the corn and gets it beyond the danger line in time4 ,sweet corn may be planted in drills or in hills1 but ,i prefer the hill method4 ,even in a small patch that can be worked but one way with a horse or cultivator--there is always a hoe to take care of the space between the hills4 ,the rows should be three feet apart and the corn in hills three feet apart1 or if planted in rows make the rows four feet apart and the corn twelve inches apart4 ,drop several kernels in each hill and thin to three plants to a hill when the corn is up and danger of frost is passed4 ,one pound of seed will plant a hundred hills or from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet of row4 ,if hard frost threatens just as the corn is coming through the ground1 throwing earth over it with a hoe will often afford sufficient protection to save it4 ,in a small garden patch it is not much work to stick a mark of some kind in the center of each hill and if this is done cultivation can commence at once and a hard crust be prevented from forming2 this will hasten the germination of the seed and insure the elimination of weeds at the start4 ,there are many varieties of sweet corn advertised1 each seedsman having his own favorite specialty1 but there are really but two that one need take into consideration--the old1 reliable ,stowell's ,evergreen and the new ,bantam ,evergreen--a cross between that exceptionally sweet corn1 the ,golden ,bantam1 and ,stowell's ,evergreen1 and combining the great qualities of both parents1 the delicious sweetness and tenderness and earliness of ,bantam with the more generous size and more tender skin of the ,evergreen4 ,plant these two varieties and have the best to be obtained in sweet corn4 ,one planting of ,evergreen will give big generous ears of late corn1 while for succession the ,bantam may be planted every two weeks up to ,july4 ,when the corn is a couple of feet high it will be well to go through the patch and remove all suckers or barren stalks so as to conserve all the food and moisture for the production of ears4 ,in addition to barnyard manure1 wood ashes is an important fertilizer for corn1 supplying the potash so essential to its growth2 this may be put in the hill at the time the corn is planted or may be scattered about the plants after they are up and hoed into the soil2 it should not be applied in connection with manure as it has a tendency to release the ammonia content of the manure1 but should be applied independently4 ,droppings from the poultry house may be used in the growing of the corn crop1 placing about a teacupful in a hill1 but not in contact with the seed4 ,several barrels of dry droppings should be saved during the winter for just this extra fertilizing in the kitchen garden4#c ,corn is very easily transplanted so that where there is a failure of the corn to germinate in some hills and an over supply in others1 the extra plants may be lifted carefully with the spade or trowel and slipped into holes prepared for them where wanted4 ,last season ,i had an interesting experience transplanting an entire row of corn1 over a foot high4 ,a row of okra had been planted across the garden but failed to appear on schedule time and was finally given up and corn planted in its place2 the corn came up and had made several inches of top when to my surprise the okra appeared4 ,it was evident that the two robust plants could not occupy successfully the same ground and ,i did not wish to sacrifice either1 so an equal number of hills were prepared in another part of the garden1 fertilized with poultry droppings and ashes and the hills of corn1 then over a foot high1 lifted1 one hill at a time1 on a spade and carried and slipped into their holes1 and not a plant seemed aware that anything had happened to it2 certainly there was no check to the growth1 but1 by lifting on the spade with plenty of soil adhering1 the roots were not disturbed in the least4 ,corn has so few enemies that it is scarcely worth while to consider them1 the principal one being earworm--a small worm that eats out the tip of the ear2 they can be poisoned by dropping ,paris green in the axils of the leaves when the plants are young4 ,,cucumbers ,for slicing for the table should be planted as soon as the ground is warm or a few seed may be planted on pieces of inverted sod1 or in pots or paper bands in the hotbed and transplanted into the open ground about corn-planting time or when the danger of frost is past2 this will give several weeks' start on outdoor planting and will also make the plants practically immune from attacks of the striped beetle4 ,beetles will of course appear1 but by the time of their arrival the plants will have attained sufficient size to withstand their attacks1 particularly will this be the case if protected with dry earth1 sifted over the leaves to roughen them or the application of tobacco tea or tobacco stems or leaves about the plants4 ,pieces of sod1 about four inches square1 should be cut and placed earth-side up close together in the warmest part of the hotbed and several seeds planted on each piece and the whole covered with a fourth of an inch of earth4 ,when ready to transplant lift the pieces on to a flat board or carrier and slip into a hole prepared for them with as little disturbance as possible and press the soil firmly about them so that the air will not get underneath and dry the roots4 ,there is not too much room for vine vegetables of any sort in the small kitchen garden and if desired the early cucumbers for table use may be grown on netting4 ,the ,japanese cucumber is a climbing sort especially addicted to this manner of growth1 bears fine1 large fruit of most excellent quality and the position on the wire1 away from the soil and damp ground1 produces a most attractive fruit1 free from the yellow blanching that is present on the cucumbers grown on the ground4 ,last year among a number of these ,japanese plants there occurred one or two plants of a snow white cucumber that ,i found very superior in crispness and flavor to the green fruit4 ,owing to early frost ,i was not able to secure seed of this interloper4 ,mr4 ,burbank's cucumber seed did not produce a single white seed4 ,this is not1 however1 a climbing sort1 but all vines which have tendrils can be grown on netting4 ,squash even will grow1 bear and seem to enjoy the experience4 ,cucumbers when grown for the table should be gathered as soon as of slicing size1 whether wanted or not1 as allowing the fruit to ripen on the vine stops production2 this is especially imperative in the case of pickles which must be removed as soon as of sufficient size to use4 ,the small pickles of an inch and a quarter or less should be gathered first and larger pickles left until the latter part of the season as gathering the cucumbers while very small increases the vine's productiveness and there will always be enough overlooked to supply the larger sort of pickles4 ,cucumbers for pickling should not be sown before ,june and may be planted at any time after that up to mid-,july4 ,plant in hills from four to six feet apart spading in a spadeful of manure in each hill2 thin out to three or four plants in a hill when danger of bugs is past2 spray with ,bordeaux ,arsenate of ,lead three ounces to a gallon of water1 when in danger of beetles or blight2 the combination of lead and ,bordeaux mixture covers both emergencies4 ,keep the ground well cultivated as long as the vines will allow2 pinch off the ends of all the vines when about a foot long to induce branching2 when the plants begin to bloom notice the presence or absence of bees4 ,some years the curcubita family fails signally in setting fruit and this is usually caused by lack of pollenization by the bees4 ,on a small patch one may substitute cross-pollenization by carrying pollen from one blossom to another with a camel's hair brush or by shaking the blossoms against each other1 but a preventative measure would be to raise a colony or two of bees4 ,sometimes the presence of some plant especially attractive to bees will lure them away from the melons1 cucumbers and like plants4 ,two years ago the presence of a patch of vetch proved so attractive to the bees that it was not until late in the season that the flowers of a nearby patch of winter squash and citron received sufficient attention to set any fruit4 ,the air was resonant with the hum of bees1 but not one was to be seen on the vines4 ,there are any number of good cucumbers to choose from for general crop4 ,early ,fortune has proved a favorite in my garden4 ,it is a good bearer and quality and appearance are all that could be asked4 ,the ,davis ,perfect1 ,arlington ,white ,spine1 and ,westerfield's ,chicago ,pickle are all satisfactory sorts to grow4 ,,eggplants ,are very tender when small1 so they should be started in the warmest part of the hotbed1 or in a warm1 sunny window in flats4 ,when they have grown their first pair of true leaves they should be transplanted--if at all crowded1 into other flats or other rows in the hotbed1 setting them two inches apart each way and grown on1 given sufficient water and occasional cultivation1 but not sufficient to disturb the roots1 until time to plant out in the open ground2 this should not be done until the nights and soil are warm as a check at this time will mean a late setting of fruit4 ,eggplants are considered one of the difficult things to grow2 personally ,i have seldom lost a plant except at the hands1 or mouth rather1 of cutworms1 but ,i have frequently gotten an unsatisfactory setting of fruit4 ,however1 one must have certain standards to adhere to in their culture1 the first of which is heat in all the early stages of their growth1 the second1 rich soil1 with occasional supplementary dressings of nitrate of soda1 and thorough cultivation4 ,the plants require considerable room when mature and should not be set closer than three feet each way4 ,the principal enemy of the eggplant is the potato beetle which is quite as partial to egg plants as to potatoes4 ,spraying with ,paris green or arsenate of lead is effectual before the fruit has formed but hand picking is more satisfactory and where only a few plants are grown for family use1 quite as practical4 ,it is not the mature beetle that eats the leaves but the young beetles that hatch from the mass of yellow eggs laid on the under side of the leaves1 so at the first appearance of the old bugs search should be made for the mass of eggs and these as well as the parent beetle destroyed2 by this means no beetles can get a start4 ,it is always good practice to avoid1 as far as possible1 the use of poisonous insecticides in the kitchen garden2 while their use may do no harm on vegetables that have not set their fruit1 there is always a tendency to grow careless in their use and to continue it after the safety zone has been passed4 ,new ,york eggplant is the standard variety for all but the northern states2 it is of the highest type1 spineless and of a rich1 purple color1 large and borne in abundance2 it is not as early as ,black ,beauty1 long a favorably known sort1 which is about twelve days earlier2 ,very ,early ,dwarf ,purple is still earlier and ,black ,pekin is another good sort4 ,in the northern states the earliest variety should be planted1 but the eggplant has one remarkable characteristic--for a plant so tender in its early stages it seems1 when fully grown1 almost immune to cold and early frost1 and ,i have often gathered unharmed fruit after severe frost had cut most everything else in the garden4 ,throwing some loose stuff--clover hay1 corn fodder or weeds--over the plants on a cold night will usually save them and a spell of warm weather that usually follows the first hard frosts may bring on immature fruit to a usable size4 ,it requires about five months from the sowing of the seed to produce usable fruit so it will readily be seen that it is important to start the seed in the hotbed1 greenhouse or in the house and to take every precaution to grow them on rapidly without any check4 ,,okra ,so well and favorably known in the southern states1 is practically unknown in the north1 except as its acquaintance is made in the chicken gumbo of the commercial soups and a few other vegetable and meat preparations4 ,it should1 however1 form a staple vegetable of the kitchen garden and1 once its merits are known1 would1 doubtless1 become as popular north as it is south4 ,though its use is chiefly associated with the preparation of soup it has other1 equally acceptable1 uses4 ,it is an excellent addition to hash1 adding both richness and flavor2 added to tomatoes it imparts a fuller1 richer flavor and used alone1 fried1 is excellent4 ,a small amount of meat1 with the addition of potatoes1 okra and onion1 the last two fried tender before adding the meat and potatoes1 makes a most satisfying one-dish meal4 ,it is one of the easiest vegetables to grow1 requiring the same culture as corn2 making the rows three feet apart1 and planting the seed in drills and thinning to ten inches apart in the row4 ,perkin's ,long ,pod is the best general variety and the pods should be gathered when half grown1 whether needed or not1 to prevent checking the production4 ,,peppers ,like the eggplant require much heat in starting and should be given the warmest position in the hotbed--about the central sash1 towards the front--so that they may not be overtopped by other1 taller growing plants1 for the pepper grows but slowly for the first few weeks of its existence4 ,the seed germinates slowly1 taking from two to three weeks to appear2 it may be sown thinly in drills1 or broadcasted1 covering sufficiently to conceal the seed and placing paper over the plot to prevent drying out4 ,if started in flats in the house the plants may be transplanted into other flats when they have made one pair of true leaves2 if not crowded in the hotbed they may be allowed to remain where they are or be transplanted into fresh rows1 setting them a couple of inches apart each way4 ,they should not be planted out in the open ground until the soil and nights are warm as a check at this time will mean late fruiting and failure to ripen4 ,make the rows from twenty-four to thirty inches apart and set the plants eighteen inches apart in the row4 ,before planting spade a forkful of old manure or henhouse droppings into each hill for the pepper is a heavy feeder and requires good soil4 ,protect the plants on cold nights if frost threatens and keep the ground well cultivated4 ,if the peppers are to be grown in the north such varieties as mature their fruits early should be selected4 ,crimson ,giant is about the earliest2 the plants are large and bear abundantly4 ,the ,upright ,new ,sweet ,pepper is also early1 a good bearer and its habit of fruiting--holding the fruit erect instead of drooping--makes it very easy to gather2 it is a medium-size pepper1 just right for stuffing for mangoes and a desirable size to pickle for winter use in salads2 if the top and bottom are removed it leaves a broad ring which is very lovely when filled with salad and garnished with parsley and well-blanched endive2 the parts removed may be used as pickles or added to mixed or chopped pickles4 ,magnum ,dulce is an excellent sort for baking when stuffed with meat or force-meat or fried4 ,pimento is a new salad pepper very attractive in shape and form but does not do so well in the north as some of the older sorts2 however1 some seasons it can be successfully grown and a few plants set out will be well worth taking pains with4 ,in the warmer sections and in favorable seasons at the north one can grow the fiery ,tabasco ,pepper from which the ,tabasco sauce of commerce is made and so prepare one's supply of this expensive relish2 it requires early planting and great attention to heat and sunshine to succeed4 ,the little ,celestial ,peppers are so very attractive when grown in pots that florists offer them along with other greenhouse stuff2 they can just as well be grown in one's own hotbed or house and make welcome gifts to the young housekeeper or the city dweller who does not have the advantage of a country garden to furnish condiments and relishes4 ,the little plants can be grown in pots from the start or small plants in the garden can be taken up and potted and will hold their tiny scarlet fruit all winter1 producing more as the first is removed4 ,for the sunny kitchen or dining room window nothing is prettier or more ornamental than a window box filled with these little red peppers1 parsley and endive4 ,cayenne peppers can be grown for the making of pepper vinegar2 the seeds are used for this1 being separated from the husk when dry and put into quart bottles filled with white wine vinegar2 in a few weeks the vinegar will be ready for use4 ,the hulls may be saved and put in cans of mixed pickles1 a few hulls adding a piquant hotness2 they may also be added to pickled onions and to cauliflower4 ,as peppers are extremely sensitive to frost every effort should be made to bring them along rapidly so that they may mature their fruit in season2 light application of nitrate will assist and the use of poultry droppings in preparing the bed will be of use2 in dry weather a wetting with water from the laundry will do much good4 ,if it is possible to pipe or carry water with hose to the garden a shallow trench may be made along the pepper rows and water turned in as required4 ,protecting with papers or other covering on frosty nights may save a crop but the covering should not rest on the plants as the frost will likely strike through2 hay or corn fodder would be likely to give better protection4 ,,tomatoes ,are one of the most important vegetables of the home garden not alone as a summer vegetable1 but also as an important part of the winter cuisine1 more tomatoes being canned for winter use than all other vegetables4 ,tomatoes require no expert care to grow2 they are one of the easiest managed of vegetables1 but they do require heat for starting if they are to be got to bearing in season to give a bountiful crop before frost4 ,it takes about four months from the time the seed is sown to produce a crop of the main crop tomato4 ,some of the very early sorts will come into bearing early in ,july2 unfortunately1 however1 these very early varieties lack the full1 delicious flavor of the later fruit4 ,the tomatoes should not be set in the open ground until all danger of frost is over2 they should be given rich soil and a spadeful of manure added to the hill in which they are planted4 ,if the plants are allowed to lie on the ground make the hills four feet apart each way1 but if they are to be staked or trained on a trellis three feet will give sufficient room2 both methods of culture have advantages2 the latter keeps the fruit up off the ground1 makes pickling easy and perhaps produces more perfect fruit2 less room is required for growing the same number of plants than would be required for the former method4 ,the first method has this advantage1--the plants suffer least in a dry season as the vines shade the ground1 and prevent the excessive evaporation of moisture and require1 accordingly1 less cultivation2 then the branches will root wherever they touch the soil and so draw moisture and nourishment from it2 a much larger amount of fruit is produced from plants allowed to rest on the ground1 and if straw is laid under the plants it will keep them from getting soiled and rotting if the season is wet4 ,where the plants are to be staked a six foot stake should be set at each hill at the time the plant is set and the plant tied to it at intervals as it grows4 ,pinch off the top as soon as it reaches the top of the stake and remove all but a few of the side branches1 pinching in those that remain to make a shapely plant4 ,i think the rack system of training is preferable to the stake4 ,a long trellis or rack1 about eighteen inches or two feet high and two feet wide1 is constructed of narrow strips of wood and placed over the tomato rows1 the plants growing up through the center of the frame and spreading out on top of it4 ,this gives more bearing surface and the vines do not need to be tied to the wood2 such a trellis can be used for several years in succession if stored away in a dry place when not in use4 ,the wire tomato supports on the market are good but costly and quite as satisfactory ones can be made at home from the wire or wooden hoops from barrels1 stapled to stout stakes sharpened at one end4 ,about three hoops should be used and three stakes4 ,these1 too1 can be stored away for future use so that the first outlay is the last for a number of years4 ,in setting out the plants from the hotbed select those with the stoutest stalks2 it is not material whether they have grown tall or keeled over in the hotbed or not if the plant appears vigorous with a robust stem4 ,if one has a good supply of plants to draw from one can discard all but the best4 ,illustration3 ,the reward of your hours of pleasant labor ,prepare the hills in advance by forking in a forkful of old manure2 if the plants are long1 make a trench two-thirds the length of the stem with a deeper hole at one end2 place the root in the hole and bend the top carefully into the trench1 turning the tip up straight so that it stands four or five inches above the ground1 draw in a part of the earth and fill the trench with water1 fill in the remainder of the soil1 pressing snugly1 make a fine dry mulch about the plant and the work is done4 ,the long stem buried in the trench will send out roots all its length and will have a much greater root system than a plant set with just a few inches of stem in the ground2 such a plant set in such a way1 invariably lives and makes a strong plant1 but to plant it with only the root part under the ground would only invite the loss of the plant4 ,the plot should be looked over the following morning to see if cut worms have cut off any of the plants during the night and to restore1 if necessary1 the dust-mulch4 ,plants grown on stakes or trellises are more susceptible to frost than those grown on the ground as the soil holds the heat and it is an easy matter to cover a considerable number of plants at one time with tarpaulin or even newspapers and this should be done when there is even a slight prospect of frost4 ,the thermometer should be watched in the late fall and if it is going down towards nightfall those plants which one wishes to save should be protected4 ,after the first three hard frosts there are usually two or three weeks of fine weather and it is at this time that tomatoes and other perishable garden stuff command the highest price and those who are fortunate enough to have a surplus to sell can realize a neat little sum that will more than pay for the trifling trouble involved4 ,i am often asked which is the best tomato for the home garden and have no hesitation in saying that1 all things considered1 there is no better tomato raised1 for an all season crop1 than the ,dwarf1 ,improved ,stone4 ,there are earlier tomatoes and larger tomatoes4 ,the ,early ,detroit is earlier1 but not very much so1 and it does not compare in size and quality with the ,stone4 ,ponderosa is a much larger tomato but the quality is not up to the ,stone nor is its freedom from cracking and irregularity to be compared to the ,stone4 ,then the ,stone is such a satisfactory plant in the way of foliage and stem1 so heavy and rugged1 the thick1 crumply leaves are very distinctive and the plants always command attention even when not in fruit4 ,the fruit is quite as large as best requirements demand and it slices beautifully for the table and canned is entirely free from that peculiar taste that characterizes the commercial tomato4 ,earliana is the earliest and the most popular sort of the extra early tomato and a few plants for early use will be worth while4 ,there is also a new ball-shaped tomato1 ,new ,globe1 that is good for slicing as it gives a number of fine slices just alike instead of the three usually obtained from a flat tomato1 only one--the middle--being perfect4 ,so if one wants a variety in the garden one may plant with entire confidence the ,dwarf ,stone and ,vaughan's ,improved ,new ,stone and add for variety the ,earliana and the ,new ,globe4 ,,squash ,,english ,,marrow ,in sections where the eggplant does not do well1 or where one lacks the skill to succeed with it a very satisfactory substitute will be found in the ,english marrow2 this is a bush form of the vegetable marrows and occupies about as much ground as an eggplant4 ,the vine sorts are such rampant growers that they require a garden to themselves or at least a walled enclosure1 but they are very profitable to grow as they produce enormously and the fruit is excellent fried like eggplant2 few1 if any1 persons would be able to distinguish between them and the difference1 if any1 would be in favor of the marrow4 ,rich warm soil is required for all the squash family and the bush varieties are no exceptions4 ,give in addition to the usual manuring of the garden a good forkful of manure in each hill4 ,space the hills four feet apart each way and plant several seeds in each hill to provide for the appetite of the squash bugs which make no exception in favor of bush varieties2 when danger of bugs is past the plants should be thinned to three or four plants in a hill4 ,to repel the squash vine borer scatter a handful of tobacco dust about the plants and at the first appearance of wilt in the leaves examine the stems carefully for the point where the worm found entrance and either slit the stalk sufficiently to uncover the worm or run a wire up the stalk until he is encountered and killed2 then if possible1 bury the wound in soil so that the branch may be saved2 if1 however1 there is too much injury done or the wound is too high up it will be best to remove that part of the branch2 at the same time the rest of the plants should be carefully examined for other signs of injury1 and the ground inspected for larv4 ,for yellow striped beetle and blight spray early and repeatedly with ,bordeaux arsenate of lead mixture4 ,the marrows are finer eating when only two-thirds grown4 ,they should be peeled1 sliced and covered with salt for an hour1 then rinsed and drained and breaded and fried the same as eggplant1 or1 if preferred1 may be cooked and mashed like summer squash4 ,they are good either way4 ,,turnips ,have an important place in the garden as they may be used as a catch crop almost any time during summer4 ,wherever vacancies occur in rows of early vegetables and it is inconvenient owing to lack of seed or other reasons to replant with the same vegetable1 then one may have recourse to the ever useful turnip and fill in the hiatus with that4 ,turnips are at their best when young and tender1 about three inches in diameter1 and a constant succession can be assured by planting in this way or where the first crop of vegetables has been removed4 ,for fall and winter use sowings may be made in ,july and ,august4 ,success frequently results from sowing among the sweet corn just before the last cultivation2 with favorable weather a crop will mature before severe freezing weather and turnips are the better for a touch of frost4 ,open a shallow drill with the hand plough or by dragging the corner of the hoe along the row and scatter the seed very thinly4 ,if the planting is in full rows make them a foot or fifteen inches apart4 ,as soon as the plants are large enough1 thin to stand three or four inches apart2 this is important as fine1 smooth roots cannot be produced if crowded4 ,the turnip maggot is the greatest enemy the turnip has and it sometimes appears in gardens that have been entirely free from it and ,i think is brought in the seed4 ,it is the same little worm that works its tortuous way through and around the radish and1 although ,i have never grown a wormy radish1 still last season an entire planting of turnips were ruined by this pest1 so as ,i was quite sure it was not previously present in the soil ,i am forced to the conviction that ,i bought and planted it together with the seed4 ,moral--,buy seed of reliable dealers and examine carefully for worm holes before planting4 ,the ,purple-top ,white ,globe is a most popular market sort4 ,snowball is a white variety of fine appearance and early maturity and if used young is very tender and sweet4 ,early ,white ,egg is another good early sort and for those who like a yellow turnip the ,yellow ,globe is a satisfactory sort4 ,it makes a larger root than the others and is excellent both for table use and for feeding stock4 ,it is a dependable root for feeding ,belgian or other hares as it keeps well1 buried in earth in a frost-proof cellar1 and when gathered for winter use the tops can be piled in a cool place and fed to the bunnies4 ,of course this applies to all turnips which are grown for winter use4 ,the planting of turnips1 radishes and cabbage should be watched closely for signs of the root maggot4 ,the presence of a little1 dark-colored fly about the plant is always cause for suspicion and when seen it will be well to take precautionary measures4 ,as tobacco in any form is obnoxious to most insect life1 the strewing of tobacco dust on the ground will usually drive these flies away and prevent the laying of eggs1 but the trouble is that they may have already laid eggs before being discovered4 ,hot water poured around the plant in sufficient quantity to soak the soil an inch or so will often destroy the eggs and larv too4 ,soaking the ground with ,paris green solution--a teaspoonful of the poison to a large watering pot of water is sufficient and the solution must be kept stirred to prevent its settling--will destroy the maggot1 but it may also poison the turnip so is not to be recommended2 also1 if the worm has attacked the radish or turnip and rendered it unsightly and unfit for the table1 tobacco and hot water then are the two safest and most reliable applications and the hot water over the tobacco is especially effective4 ,disks made from heavy tar paper are sold for the protection of cabbage and cauliflower plants and may be cheaply made at home and though a little more trouble to apply about turnips and radishes still are practical and better than losing the crop4 ,the disks may be either round or square and should be about three inches in diameter with a hole the size of the stem in the center and a slit extending out from the hole on one side to the edge2 this allows the disk to be slipped around the stem of the plant4 ,a leather punch which will cut a quarter of an inch hole may be used and the slit made to the center of the disk and the hole then cut4 ,the disk lies flat on the ground and prevents the entrance of the fly to deposit the egg and the tar paper repels4 ,footnote #c3 ,corn should not be planted in single rows for this reason3--when the corn blooms the pollen is carried from ear to ear1 and from plant to plant4 ,if a single row is planted broadside to the prevailing wind1 the pollen is dissipated and the corn remains unfertilized and produces no ears4 ,three or more rows insures against this loss of pollenization4 ,if only a limited number of hills are to be planted it will be better to plant them in blocks rather than in one or two long rows4 ,corn that matures at different seasons should not be planted in parallel single rows as the result would be the same as one single row--the corn not blooming at the same time4 ,again1 corn of two different sorts should not be in adjoining1 parallel rows1 rather should each kind be planted in blocks to avoid hybridizing4 ,where it is necessary to give a long strip of land to the sweet corn it may be divided into blocks1 especially if the strip extends from north to south1 as the prevailing winds are quite uniformly from east or west and there is little trouble with cross pollenizing from south to north4 ,,chapter ,x ,,vegetables ,,of ,,the ,,vine ,,family ,,cucumbers ,for main crop or pickle cucumbers should be planted in the open ground from ,june until the middle of ,july2 at this season there is less danger of damage from the striped cucumber beetle and the stink bug1 both serious enemies of the vine family2 but even so late in the season it will be well to take the easy precaution of strewing tobacco stems or dust on the hill about the plants4 ,for pickles plant in hills four to six feet apart each way and keep the entire surface of the ground clean with frequent cultivation4 ,hoeing about the hills and running the hand cultivator with the scuffle-hoe attachment between the hills will be sufficient1 but no weeds should be allowed to make a start1 as once the vines have begun to cover the ground it will be difficult to eradicate the weeds and the vines must not be tramped on or handled unnecessarily4 ,when the plants are a foot long pinch out the ends of the branches to induce branching and check too rampant a growth4 ,pull up all but three or four plants when all danger of bugs is past4 ,keep a close watch for root maggot1 borer1 and wilt4 ,spray with ,bordeaux arsenate of lead mixture at the first appearance of wilt1 and continue once a week until the fruit appears2 after that it will not be safe to use the poison4 ,gather the pickles frequently--every other day if bearing well2 do not allow fruit to grow large or ripen on the vines if grown for pickles as this will check production4 ,one of the best table varieties is ,early ,fortune--also a desirable pickling variety4 ,arlington1 ,white ,spine and ,davis's ,perfect are excellent table sorts and ,chicago ,pickle--a standard pickle sort--and ,long ,green1 or ,jersey ,pickle and the ,westerfield's ,chicago ,pickle are all excellent types for growing for pickles4 ,,citron ,used for preserving and for sweet pickles1 require the same treatment as melons and squash4 ,seed may be planted directly in the open ground or started on pieces of sod in the hotbed2 this is preferable as the fruit sometimes fails to ripen in a short season and unless fully ripened on the vine the preserves have a watery taste1 no matter how carefully prepared4 ,citron make about the same length of vine as the watermelon so should be planted from five to six feet apart1 and when the vines are a foot in length the tips should be pinched off to induce branching and check too straying a habit4 ,keep cultivated1 remembering that the dust-mulch is the best garden insurance and spray with ,bordeaux mixture against blight and use tobacco dust liberally as a preventive measure against the yellow striped beetle and the squash bug4 ,,musk ,,melons ,in securing seed for growing musk melons one should take into consideration the climate and the length of the growing season4 ,certain varieties of melon require certain climatic conditions and will not give satisfaction if these are lacking4 ,melons that are adapted to the climate of ,colorado--like the ,rocky ,ford1 the ,honey ,dew and the like seldom do well in the east and middle west where early frosts are apt to find the fruit still immature1 but there are many other excellent varieties well adapted to these sections4 ,the ,extra ,early ,hackensack1 the ,osage1 the ,irondequoit and others can be grown with satisfaction and all are especially fine and large4 ,as a general thing ,i think a large melon1 sweetness and flavor being equal1 preferable4 ,one of the sweetest melons with which ,i am acquainted is the old ,cassaba2 this is the largest musk melon grown--a perfect specimen being from twelve to fifteen inches in length and as much as one wishes to carry up from the garden1 but the delicate green flesh is melted sugar1 nothing less1 with a flavor all its own4 ,for an early crop of melons one should start the seed in the hotbed on squares of sod1 using plenty of seed so that one will have an assured stand1 and transplant when all danger of frost is past4 ,if one only grows a few hills it will well repay one for the extra trouble to cover the hills with shallow boxes1 covered with wire netting or mosquito netting4 ,the boxes should not be more than four inches high and about twelve inches square1 or thereabouts2 if removed as soon as danger of bugs is past and stored in a dry place they will last for a number of years4 ,empty biscuit boxes sawed in two make good frames or strips of three inch lumber can quickly be converted into frames by any one handy with hammer and saw4 ,dry weather is one of the serious drawbacks to melon culture as the drought usually comes just as the fruit is setting4 ,sinking tin cans1 with holes punched in the sides near the bottom1 to the top in the soil in the middle of the hill and keeping them filled with water will be of much assistance in bringing the fruit on to maturity4 ,occasionally too much rain interferes with the ripening of the fruit2 in such cases the empty can will act as a drain pipe by accumulating water from the surface soil4 ,the glass plant protectors used in early spring are helpful in concentrating the little sunshine cloudy weather affords and where these are not available old window glass may be used to afford protection from rain and wind for a few days4 ,this should be supported on the north side by a frame or stout stakes1 their lower edge resting on the ground4 ,the best soil for melons is a warm1 sandy soil well enriched with barnyard manure and a supplementary shovelful should be placed in each hill4 ,make the hills about six feet apart each way1 and thin out to three plants to a hill4 ,if desired such small sorts as ,rocky ,ford1 ,paul ,rose1 ,hoodoo and the like may be grown on netting2 they will not1 perhaps1 bear as freely1 but the fruit will be more perfect than when grown on the ground1 and there is this advantage that the fruit drops when perfectly ripe so that there is no uncertainty about gathering it4 ,where there is only a small garden spot available the growing of melons1 cucumbers and the like on netting is a distinct advantage2 the cultivation then becomes as simple as that of a row of peas and can be continued throughout the season2 gathering the fruit is much simplified as there are no vines to be trampled on and if water is needed it can be quickly applied along the row4 ,melons grown on netting are easily protected from early frost1 but it is difficult to cover any considerable area on the ground4 ,,watermelons ,require the same treatment as musk-melons except that it is all right that they should be started in the open ground1 spacing the hills from eight to ten feet apart each way2 giving a spadeful of manure in each hill4 ,spray with ,bordeaux arsenate of lead mixture once or twice1 using a much weaker dilution than for other vines4 ,pinch out the ends of the vines4 ,keep cultivated and free from weeds4 ,avoid stepping on the vines or handling them unnecessarily4 ,cole's ,early1 ,kleckley ,sweet and the new melon--,tom ,watson--are all good sorts of much sweetness and crispness of flesh4 ,the first is well adapted to the northern states1 the ,kleckley a few days later than ,cole's ,early4 ,a few ,winter ,watermelons will extend the season long into the winter as this variety may be gathered at the approach of cold weather and stored in a cool1 frost-proof cellar and will retain its delicious flavor and sweetness for weeks4 ,unlike the other melons mentioned1 which are oblong and green1 and very tender of rind1 the ,winter is round1 nearly white-skinned and of a hardness approaching the citron4 ,the flesh1 however1 is red and very firm4 ,it must not be concluded that the ,winter is a late season melon1 for it is one of the earliest1 continuing to bear until frost cuts the vines1 so that it may be grown for a single melon crop if desired4 ,,squash ,winter squash are an important garden product1 not much appreciated during the flush times of summer but coming into its own at the approach of cold weather2 the culture is practically that of all vine products4 ,starting seed on sod in the hotbed and transplanting has much to recommend it as the squash seems to attract more than a fair sort of attention from striped cucumber beetle1 squash bugs1 stink worm and blight4 ,the vine borer also takes its tithe of the plant and a sudden wilting of the leaves is indication that he is at work2 he should be hunted for and killed4 ,usually there is little hopes of saving the injured branch2 if anything will do it it will be burying the wound in earth and keeping it moist for a time until it either heals or sends out roots at the nearest joint and so becomes an independent plant4 ,as a rule squash1 melons1 cucumbers and the like will not transplant4 ,it often happens that about all of the seed planted in some hills will germinate and make strong plants while other hills will have but one or two plants and it is desired to transplant some of the extra plants into hills where they are needed2 attempts to do this with a trowel invariably fail2 it is possible1 however1 to transplant an entire hill--or a part of one if spaced far enough apart1 by passing a spade down into the ground at a sufficient distance from the plant to avoid disturbing the roots and lifting a large spadeful of earth with the plants4 ,the hill that is to receive them should have been prepared in advance so that the earth may slide off the spade into the hole without disturbing or breaking it in the least2 the soil should not be pressed down as this would have a tendency to crumble1 but any space about it should be filled in carefully and water poured around it4 ,squash or other vines moved in this way invariably live and go on growing without any appreciable setback4 ,a considerable patch of winter squash--the ,delicious--was entirely secured by taking up plants that had come up self sown in various places2 somewhere some immature squash were left in the garden the fall before2 some came from the frame around a standpipe in the barnyard which was filled with coal ashes4 ,how the squash came to come up in that unusual place is unknown1 but there were a number of nice plants and these were lifted on the spade and carried--a spadeful at a time--and planted where they were wanted and the entire patch was very thrifty and bore abundantly4 ,spraying1 hand picking and attention to cultivation are essential in growing squash as with other garden crops4 ,the dust-mulch is the one certain assurance against failure4 ,the ,hubbard ,squash1 both ,golden and ,warted1 have long been standard sorts1 but both have lost1 through much careless breeding1 the qualities which distinguished them--dryness and sweetness4 ,it is practically impossible of late years to find an individual of either variety that is really dry or sweet or that has keeping qualities equal to the early sorts4 ,in the ,delicious we have a much superior squash whose dryness is notable and sweetness all that one could desire1 even small1 immature specimens possess the quality in high degree4 ,unless one has home grown seed from a ,hubbard that was perfect in these qualities ,i should advise planting the seed of ,delicious and saving one's own seed from the best specimen of that4 ,,summer ,,squash ,then there are all the varieties of summer squashes--,summer ,crookneck1 ,giant ,summer ,crookneck1 the ,vegetable ,marrows1 and the several bush forms1 which are a boon to the small kitchen garden as they take little room and are always within bounds2 they include the ,bush ,fordhook1 used as a summer squash when green1 or ripe1 a good keeper1 often lasting until the next season's crop is ready4 ,the ,mammoth ,white ,bush or ,patty ,pan1 ,early ,yellow ,bush1 ,early ,golden ,bush and ,bush ,english ,marrow are all good sorts--either cooked and mashed or egged and fried like eggplant4 ,all require the same general treatment and all bear heavily and early4 ,the summer squash are planted in the open ground any time that is suitable for planting corn4 ,to guard against loss by seed decaying in the ground if the season is wet1 set the seeds on edge1 instead of laying them flat2 this is advisable with all flat seeds of pronounced size2 cover half an inch and mark the hills so that cultivation can commence at once4 ,covering the hills with frames will save much work in combating insects or a cap of window screening will be effectual2 this is made from a round piece of netting with a slit on one side from center to edge to allow its being bent in a tent shape4 ,a stick should be fastened to it to hold it together and anchor it to the ground2 this can be easily arranged by taking a piece of wood four or five inches longer than the cap and splitting it half its length1 inserting the wire where it laps into the split and thrusting the free end into the ground4 ,these little caps are very practical as they can be flattened out and laid away when no longer required1 occupying very little space to store and for that reason are preferable to the boxes4 ,squash vines may be kept from growing too rampant by shortening the branches4 ,they should always be pinched back as soon as they have made a foot1 or less1 of growth and when fruit is well set on the vines the ends may be severely cut back to insure the early maturity of the fruit already set4 ,i have removed branches several feet long and bearing half-grown squash from vines of the ,english marrow without the least ill effect and have no doubt that similar treatment would be well borne by the ,hubbard or other winter squash1 and so save much useless growth and conserve the strength of the vine for the main crop of squash and1 perhaps1 induce a dryer1 sweeter product4 ,,sweet ,,potatoes ,the easiest way to raise one's own sweet potatoes is to buy already started plants of the market gardeners who make a business of starting them for sale2 but if one prefers to plant the tubers and raise one's own plants1 and the potatoes are available--which seldom is the case unless one has kept them over in a warm cellar buried in sand--then the potatoes are cut the same as ,irish potatoes1 one eye to a piece1 and started in a warm hotbed in ,april4 ,before planting the pieces of potato it is a wise precaution to dip each piece in sulphur to protect against black rot4 ,the plants should not be set out in the open ground until the nights are warm and all danger of frost is passed4 ,the hills should be three feet apart each way at least as the vines make quite a rank growth4 ,warm1 sandy soil1 well fertilized1 is necessary and a trowelful of poultry droppings may be added to each hill for good results4 ,cultivate thoroughly and often and when the vines become too long to make cultivating convenient they may be lifted and coiled around the top of the hill1 the hill1 by the way1 not being a hill at all in the common acceptance of the term but merely a level space devoted to the growing of the potato4 ,it is quite important that the ground immediately about the plant be kept clean1 so that when the vines are coiled up they need not be again disturbed to remove weeds4 ,the space between the plants should be kept mellow and free from weeds throughout the growing season4 ,sweet potatoes are quite as easy to grow as ,irish potatoes1 easier1 in fact1 as they have fewer enemies and are not attacked by the potato beetle4 ,they are more difficult to keep1 however1 and should be stored in boxes of dry sand in a warm1 dry cellar over winter4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,vegetables ,,less ,,commonly ,,grown ,there is a considerable number of vegetables that are seldom encountered in the general garden1 many of which are well worthy of acquaintance4 ,many of them are familiar to the city housekeper through the medium of the fruit stores and the delicatessen stores2 more of them appear in the gardens of the foreign residents and might be adopted for general cultivation with good results4 ,,artichokes ,which appear as an especial delicacy on the menus of the big hotels and restaurants on special occasions only1 are not difficult to grow in sections of the country where the winters are not too severe4 ,they will not stand the winters of the northern states1 however1 and in any longitude north of the ,ohio1 are better for winter protection4 ,given a mild winter climate they are as easily raised as a cabbage or an ear of corn and are far more ornamental1 indeed so striking and handsome are the plants that they may be grown for their effectiveness alone4 ,the plants are grown from seed started in a hotbed in ,march or earlier and planted out in rich mellow soil when the weather is suitable4 ,set the plants three feet apart each way4 ,the plants do not bear until the second year1 but they may be had in cold sections by purchasing the plants of the florist at any time after the middle of ,april4 ,as many undesirable sorts are often obtained from seed it is a more certain way of getting good varieties to purchase the plants4 ,they are1 however1 more expensive than other vegetable plants and where they can not be carried over the winter are somewhat expensive1 costing one dollar and fifty cents a dozen4 ,however1 a dozen will be ample for a small family4 ,the unopened flower head is the part eaten and it is served raw as a salad or cooked in various ways as an entre4 ,they should receive the same culture as okra or corn1 thorough cultivation and water if the season is unduly dry4 ,at the approach of severe weather the tops should be cut off close to the crown and the plants banked up with coal ashes1 which should be removed in the spring before growth begins4 ,,artichoke1 ,,jerusalem ,though sometimes used as a vegetable and for pickling is especially valuable for feeding stock1 especially swine which are allowed to harvest it by rooting it out of the ground4 ,it is claimed that an acre of ground planted to artichoke will keep from twenty to thirty hogs from ,october to ,april4 ,they have a special value as a means of clearing a piece of land of undesirable weed growths--like ,canada ,thistle1 quack grass or locust sprouts1 as the hogs in rooting for the tubers will destroy the weed roots1 thus redeeming a piece of land that may be utilized for garden crops or fruit4 ,in planting the tubers are cut and planted the same as potatoes and cultivated in the same way until the crop is matured sufficiently to turn the hogs on it or they may be harvested to feed during winter to any stock which needs a succulent winter food4 ,,broccoli ,a vegetable similar to cauliflower1 but of somewhat coarser flavor4 ,it is hardier than cauliflower and will do well in sections where cauliflower is not successfully grown4 ,for rapid growth it should receive frequent cultivation and be grown in rich soil4 ,sow seed very early in greenhouse1 hotbed or warm window and set out as soon as the ground can be prepared in spring1 setting the plants the same distance apart as cabbage and drawing the earth up about the roots when hoeing4 ,white ,cap is about the best variety1 making fine1 large1 compact heads of a creamy-white color1 of good flavor4 ,,brussels ,,sprouts ,these little miniature cabbages1 growing closely together on a stalk1 are delicious boiled like cabbage or used as a salad4 ,the culture is the same as that accorded cabbage4 ,the seed should be sown in the hotbed in spring and set out in the open ground in ,may in rows three feet apart and about twenty inches apart in the rows4 ,cultivate to keep down weeds and maintain a dust-mulch4 ,by fall the little heads will be fully developed4 ,the delicate flavor is improved by a touch of frost4 ,for late use sow seed in ,june4 ,,chicory ,sow seed in the open ground early in spring as for parsnips1 thinning to stand three inches apart in the rows and making the rows fifteen inches apart4 ,dig the roots in the fall and store in a dark cellar where the temperature can be controlled4 ,cut the leaves off a little above the root crown and place them in horizontal layers with the crowns outward covering each layer1 excepting the tip of the crown1 with earth4 ,each layer should be a little narrower than the one beneath so that they form a sloping bank4 ,it is the tender white leaves produced in the dark that are used for salad4 ,another form of ,chicory1 the ,large ,rooted1 is used to mix with or substitute for coffee1 being sliced1 dried1 roasted and ground4 ,witloof ,chicory1 or ,french ,endive as it is sold by dealers in fancy fruits and vegetables1 is sown in ,june in drills a foot apart and cultivated until frost1 when the plants should be taken up and trimmed to an inch and a half from the neck and replaced upright in trenches about sixteen inches deep1 setting the plants about an inch and a half apart4 ,the trench is then filled in with soil and covered with manure to hasten growth4 ,the tender1 white tops will be ready for use in about a month and are eaten raw1 like celery1 used as a salad or cooked4 ,,celeriac ,or turnip-rooted celery is grown for its bulbous root1 which has a distinct celery flavor and in gardens where celery will not succeed it makes a very good substitute4 ,it is used1 cooked1 either as a salad or as a vegetable4 ,it is cultivated much as celery is1 only it does not require the banking so necessary with that plant4 ,it may1 however1 be blanched and is said to be very fine that way4 ,delicatesse is a fine sort with perfectly smooth root1 free from side rootlets1 pure white1 tender and excellent in quality4 ,giant ,prague is another fine sort4 ,earliest of ,all is ready for use in ,june and is a good sort4 ,,cherville ,resembles parsley and is used for garnishing and for seasoning4 ,cultivate like parsley1 making the rows a foot apart and thin to six inches4 ,,collards ,grown at the south as greens and as a substitute for cabbage4 ,plant seed in rows1 thinning or transplanting to a foot apart in the row4 ,it is improved by a touch of frost4 ,,corn ,,salad ,sow in spring in drills a foot apart4 ,for winter and spring use sow in drills in ,august and ,september and cultivate like lettuce or other salad stuff4 ,,cress ,upland ,cress1 which has the flavor of water-cress1 can be grown in any good garden soil without the presence of water4 ,the seed should be sown very freely in rows one foot apart1 making repeated sowings for succession as the plant soon runs to seed4 ,water-cress can be grown about a water hydrant if the soil is clayey1 or can be underlaid with a few inches of clay4 ,water-cress sown at intervals in such a position will give a supply of the pungent green that will be a very welcome addition to lettuce1 corn or other salad4 ,remove a foot or eighteen inches of the soil for a square yard of space and in the excavation thus formed lay a few inches of clay1 tamping and puddling it down until it makes a continuous layer1 then apply a few inches of earth rich in humus or marsh earth1 leaving the surface slightly lower than the surrounding soil and scatter the seed broadcast and keep free from weeds until up and growing4 ,allow the hydrant to drip sufficiently to maintain sufficient moisture4 ,continue to scatter seeds at intervals for a succession of cress4 ,,dandelion ,for those who love the bitter tang of the dandelion as a green1 the cultivated affords a much finer dish than the wild as the leaves are double the size of the wild dandelion4 ,the seed should be sown in drills1 covering very lightly and shading with newspapers or brush until up4 ,thin to stand a foot apart and blanch1 if desired1 by inverting a box or flower-pot over each plant1 or a cone of stiff paper can be used4 ,for greens1 only the top may be removed but for salad the plant may be cut down to the root1 the part beneath the surface of the ground being very white and tender4 ,there is no danger of dandelion grown in the garden becoming a troublesome weed as it is easily kept from seeding1 which is its only way of spreading4 ,,fennel ,,or ,,finocchio ,is extensively used in ,italy as a salad4 ,the part used is the enlargement of the leaf stalk at the base of the stem4 ,when this is about the size of an egg1 the earth should be drawn up about the plant to cover the enlargement partly and in a week or ten days the eggs maybe used1 removing as many as required1 a succession being produced4 ,the flavor is delicate1 resembling celery1 and it may be used either as a salad or boiled4 ,,garlic ,so beloved of the ,italians is quite worth cultivating in our ,american gardens4 ,it is used in minute quantities as a seasoning in almost all forms of savory cooking1 in omelets1 salads1 soups1 dressings and wherever a piquant flavor1 suggestive of onion1 but distinctive1 is desired4 ,the garlic comes in a bunch of cloves which are separated and planted like onion sets an inch apart1 but it requires warmer weather than the onion1 succeeding especially well in the climate of ,california4 ,it is1 however1 indigenous in a wild state in many parts of the country and cattle browsing in garlic-infested pastures have a distinctive garlicky flavor to their milk4 ,so agreeable is the taste of garlic or leeks in butter to some people that it was once quite common in the ,philadelphia markets to hear leeky butter inquired for4 ,,kale ,,or ,,borecole ,are grown for greens and as a substitute for cabbage1 being more hardy than that vegetable4 ,for summer use sow the seed in the open ground in ,may or ,june and cultivate the same as cabbage4 ,for early spring use1 sow seed in ,september and protect during winter4 ,some of the varieties1 like ,imperial ,long-standing ,kale1 are so hardy that they may be dug out from under the snow in the winter4 ,dwarf ,curled ,scotch is an excellent sort1 very tender and fine flavored and with beautiful curled foliage4 ,dwarf ,green ,curled ,kale and ,excelsior ,moss ,curled ,kale are other good sorts1 very mossy1 attractive and delicious4 ,sea ,kale1 less well known than the annual kale1 is a hardy perennial that is cultivated somewhat like asparagus1 the seed being sown in the spring in rows three to four feet apart4 ,the seedlings give a crop the third year but quicker results come from planting root cuttings or offsets4 ,the ,sea ,kale has a very long tap-root and should be grown in rich mellow soil that has been ploughed or dug very deep4 ,as soon as shoots show above the ground blanch with boards1 earth1 sand or anything that will exclude light until ready for use4 ,when blanched the leaf-stalk is cooked like asparagus or the leaves are used as greens4 ,,kohl-,,rabi 7,turnip-rooted cabbage7 ,the bulb which grows on the stalk a few inches above the ground is the edible part of this vegetable4 ,this is stripped and cooked like turnips1 but is much more sweet and delicate4 ,sow seed in the open ground in ,june1 making the rows sixteen inches apart and thin to six inches in the rows4 ,sow for succession from early spring until ,july4 ,cultivate like cabbage4 ,,leeks ,sow seed in ,april in drills one foot apart and one inch deep4 ,transplant when large enough to handle or thin to stand six inches apart in the rows1 setting the plants as deep as possible so that the earth will come up well about the neck to blanch and insure its whiteness and tenderness4 ,in cultivating draw the earth up about the plants4 ,seed may also be sown in ,august or ,september1 the same as onions1 and the plants transplanted the following spring4 ,prizetaker ,leek is a fine exhibition sort4 ,large ,musselburg has enormous broad leaves and a pleasant flavor4 ,long ,mezieres also has broad1 erect leaves1 fine flavor and a long1 snow-white stem and is very hardy4 ,leeks are a valuable addition to the onion family of the garden4 ,,martynia ,the curious pods of this vine vegetable are used for pickling and produce a very fancy article4 ,they should be gathered when only half grown4 ,sow the seed in the hotbed in spring and transplant into hills three feet apart each way and cultivate the same as cucumbers4 ,the plants will self-sow and voluntary plants will appear each year so that once established one is quite sure of a supply4 ,seed may also be sown in the open ground1 if preferred1 in ,may4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,quantity ,,of ,,seed ,,required ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,,name ,,ounces,,pounds ,,drill ,,hills,,acre ,,plants ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,asparagus #a #d-e #a #bjj ,beans #a #a #ej ,bush ,lima #a #a #ej ,pole ,lima #a #a #ge-ajj ,beets #a #e-f #ej #a ,brussels ,sprouts #a #bjj ,cabbage #a #d #cjjj-djjj ,cauliflower #a #cjjj ,carrots #a #c-d #ajj #a ,chicory #a #ajj ,celery #a #ejjj-fjjj ,cucumbers #a #b #ej #a ,corn ,salad #c #ajj ,collards #a #cjjj ,eggplant #a #ajjj-bjjj ,endive #a #cjj ,kale #a #ejjj ,kohl-,rabi #a #cjj ,lettuce #a #cjjj ,muskmelon #a #b-c #a ,watermelon #a #d-e #a ,onion #a #d-e #bjj #a ,okra #a #ajj ,parsley #a #aej ,parsnips #a #e-f #bjj #a ,peppers #a #ajjj-aejj ,peas #a #ej ,pumpkins #a #be ,potatoes #ac ,radishes #a #ajj ,rhubarb #a #abe ,salsify #a #ej ,squash #a #c-d #be #a ,spinach #a #aj-ab #ajj #a ,tomatoes #a #cjjj-djjj ,turnips #a #a-b #bjj #a ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,for those vegetables of which only a small quantity is grown the packets will be ample1 most packets giving from one to two hundred plants1 when started in the hotbed4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,sweet1 ,,pot ,,and ,,medicinal ,,herbs ,are a very welcome addition to the kitchen garden1 giving just the often needed touch to the achievement of a successful dish1 a touch that will change an everyday vegetable or meat course to something unusual and fancy in cuisine1 and with no trouble or added expense to the cook--just a little pinch of this or that1 and what a difference it makes6 ,in most households sage is depended on for the flavoring of poultry dressing1 sausage and the like1 in spite of the fact that it may be anything but pleasing to some member of the family or the welcome guest2 so accustomed are we to its use that substitution is scarcely thought of1 and yet a very pleasing one is found in summer savory1 which most people like better than sage1 once its acquaintance is made4 ,coriander and caraway seeds are used in bread1 cake and cookies1 but just a touch of caraway is a very piquant addition to salads4 ,tarragon is used for making tarragon vinegar--the leaves being steeped in pale cider or white wine vinegar until the flavor is extracted and then used in the concoction of salad dressing4 ,dill is used principally for making dill pickles1 the leaves being laid alternately with the pickles when laid down4 ,sweet fennel is used for salads and soups and also for fish sauce4 ,if one has a strip of land at one side of the garden that is not needed1 and can be conveniently skipped in the plowing1 that will be the place for the herb bed4 ,the soil should be rich and mellow and contain a fair proportion of humus4 ,a poor strip of land may be built up by adding to it from season to season the old manure from the hotbed2 this is nearly reduced to humus and the action of the elements will soon complete its transformation4 ,as many of the herbs are perennial it is best that the bed should be a permanent one1 not subject to annual disturbance4 ,it should be long1 rather than wide1 so that the herbs may be gathered without walking on the bed2 three feet is a good width as that can be reached across fairly well4 ,as the amount of any one herb used in the average family will be small it is not necessary that they be set in regular rows2 they may rather be started in rows1 for convenience in planting and identifying when up and then the fine1 vigorous plants set in clumps in the border1 or in colonies of sorts4 ,the leaves of the various plants are the part used and they should be cut or gathered on a bright1 clear day just as the plants are coming into bloom1 tied in bunches and hung up in a dry place1 an attic with open windows1 or a shed1 or spread out on racks or a floor1 anywhere where they will dry quickly so as to retain all their flavor4 ,when thoroughly dry the leaves should be stripped from the stems and packed in bags or boxes for use4 ,the annual varieties are cultivated the same as the perennials but if one prefers these may occupy a row through the garden where they can have the cultivation accorded the other vegetables4 ,the following list is quite complete and will indicate the various uses for which each is suitable4 ,,perennial ,,herbs ,balm4 ,lemon-scented and used for making balm tea4 ,catnip4 ,beloved of cats and useful in colic of infants4 ,fennel1 ,sweet4 ,used in salads and soups4 ,horehound4 ,very useful in coughs and bronchial colds1 made into syrup or candy1 with sugar4 ,lavender4 ,for perfuming linen4 ,not hardy and should be protected in winter4 ,mint4 ,for mint sauces4 ,pennyroyal4 ,used medicinally1 and for seasoning puddings and various dishes4 ,peppermint4 ,for flavoring and in candy4 ,rosemary4 ,for flavoring4 7,here's ,rosemary1 that's for remembrance47 ,rue4 ,for roup in fowls and for medicinal purposes4 ,sage4 ,seasoning for sausage1 poultry dressing and the like4 ,savory1 summer4 ,used in place of sage and as flavoring with string beans4 ,savory1 winter4 ,used the same as summer savory4 ,sweet ,marjoram4 ,used green in summer and dried in winter4 ,tansy4 ,for medicinal purposes4 ,thyme1 broad-leaved ,english4 ,for seasoning and poultry stuffing2 also a tea for nervous headache4 ,,annual ,,herbs ,anise4 ,for garnishing and flavoring and in making cordials4 ,basil1 sweet4 ,the stems and seeds are used in soups and sauces4 ,bene4 ,used medicinally--the leaves in water1 beneficial in cases of dysentery4 ,borage4 ,excellent for bees4 ,leaves used in salads1 the flowers in cooling drinks4 ,caraway4 ,the seed used in bread1 cakes1 cookies and salads4 ,chamomile4 ,medicinal4 ,prescribed by physicians as an emetic and vermifuge4 ,coriander4 ,seeds aromatic4 ,used as a stomachic4 ,cumin4 ,as food for pigeons4 ,dill4 ,in making dill pickles4 ,pimpinella4 ,the young leaves1 used as salad1 have the flavor of cucumbers4 ,saffron4 ,used for flavoring and coloring4 ,tarragon4 ,for flavoring and in salads4 ,does not come from seed but plants must be purchased4 ,tagetes4 ,this possesses in its green parts almost the true tarragon flavor4 ,thyme4 ,french ,summer4 ,used for seasoning4 ,waldmeister4 ,used in ,may wine and also for scenting clothes4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,plant ,,enemies ,,and ,,insecticides ,the well-tended garden does not suffer materially from inroads of insect pests especially in favorable seasons2 cool1 damp weather1 and hot1 muggy weather are conducive to fungoid diseases which sap the strength of the plants and make them less resistant to any kind of assaults1 whether of insects or disease1 but with normal weather and bright dry air a part of each day at least1 little trouble should be experienced from insect pests2 especially should this be the case if precautionary work has been done the previous fall in the way of gathering up and burning all rubbish that can harbor insects or disease and especially if the precaution is taken to fall plough the garden1 leaving the soil in the rough furrow over winter4 ,this is especially good practice when there has been trouble with insect pests1 especially cutworms1 root lice1 tomato worms--the pupae of which winter in the ground and if turned up by the plough will be destroyed1 radish and cabbage maggot and the like4 ,even though the past season has been practically free from trouble of this sort the intelligent gardener will recognize the possibility of trouble and in time of peace will prepare for war by supplying himself with the more common and useful varieties of insecticides4 ,it is not desirable that the list should include everything in the bug pharmacopia2 a few standard remedies faithfully and intelligently used are far better than an embarrassing assortment that leaves one undecided as to which is best and often results in half-hearted use of first one and then the other1 with lax intervals which give the enemy time to recuperate and multiply4 ,it is best in deciding upon the insecticides and fungicides to be used to have a clear classification in mind of the several kinds of insect to be exterminated as one form of poison may not be suited to all forms of insect life3 for instance1 insects which chew or eat the leaves of the plants to which they are addicted1 as the potato beetle1 caterpillar and the like1 can most readily be destroyed by poison applied to the foliage2 insects which do not eat the vegetation on the surface1 but puncture it and drain away by suction the juices of the plant1 like the aphis and other plant lice1 will not be injured by surface poison1 but must be destroyed by the contact of corrosive poison with their bodies1 or with hot water1 which is one of the best insecticides known1 not only destroying all insect life with which it comes in contact1 but cleansing and strengthening the plants4 ,it should be used as a spray at about a hundred and forty degrees1 taking pains to reach the underside of the leaves as well as the upper surface1 and as it can be used when the fruit is in any stage of growth its advantage is obvious4 ,for the eating or chewing insects and beetles there are several reliable poisons on the market1 all ready for use1 needing only to be mixed with a definite bulk of water1 flour or lime1 according as the poison is to be used as a dust or a spray4 ,,arsenate ,,of ,,lead ,used for all chewing insects that attack foliage and fruit trees2 will not wash off nor burn the foliage4 ,use two or three pounds to fifty gallons of water as a spray4 ,price about forty-five cents a pound4 ,,arsenate ,,of ,,zinc ,a quick-acting adhesive insecticide for potato bugs1 rose beetles and vegetables that have not headed sufficiently to be injurious if touched with the poison4 ,forty-five cents per pound4 ,,bug ,,death ,used instead of ,paris green for eating insects on potatoes1 squashes1 melons1 eggplants1 cucumbers4 ,twenty-five cents a pound2 directions accompany it4 ,,paris ,,green ,for all chewing insects4 ,as a dust use one part of the poison to one hundred parts plaster1 or flour2 as a spray1 one pound ,paris green to one hundred and fifty to three hundred gallons of water according to the tenderness of the foliage4 ,sixty-five cents per pound4 ,,pyrox ,for eating insects1 fungus growth1 blight and rot4 ,adheres to foliage4 ,one pound to six gallons of water4 ,forty cents per pound4 ,,slug ,,shot ,for potato bugs1 tomato and cabbage worms1 lice aphis and worms--use as dust with blow gun4 ,twenty cents a pound4 ,for fungoid diseases1 blight and rot the various ,bordeaux mixtures1 single and combined with the arsenates so as to take the place of a separate poison for chewing insects1 are suggested4 ,,bordeaux ,,mixture ,the standard remedy against fungus1 rust and rot4 ,five ounces to one gallon of water is standard strength4 ,spray at intervals until fruits sets1 for potatoes till danger of late blight is passed4 ,thirty-five cents a pound4 ,,bordeaux-,,arsenate ,,of ,,lead ,a combined fungicide and insecticide for potatoes1 melons1 cucumbers and squash4 ,three ounces to one gallon of water4 ,spray once a week or every ten days4 ,forty cents per pound4 ,,kerosene ,,emulsion ,for all soft-bodied1 sucking insects1 especially aphis and lice4 ,one pound of paste to ten gallons of water4 ,paste1 thirty cents a pound4 ,,directions ,,for ,,preparing ,,kerosene ,,emulsion ,dissolve one-half pound of soap in one gallon of boiling water1 add two gallons of kerosene1 and force through a spray pump again and again until an emulsion is formed4 ,dilute from ten to twenty-five times before applying4 ,use rain-water for making solution4 ,,bordeaux-,,arsenate ,,of ,,lead ,one pound of arsenate of lead with fifty gallons of ,bordeaux mixture for all eating insects and fungoid diseases4 ,,bordeaux ,,mixture ,dissolve six pounds of copper sulphate by hanging it in a bag of coarse cloth in an earthen or wooden vessel containing four to six gallons of water1 and dilute with twenty-five gallons of water4 ,slake four pounds of lime1 diluting to twenty-five gallons and mix by pouring the two solutions into a third vessel4 ,this is of such universal use that the large quantity will not be excessive1 especially when combined with the arsenical preparations4 ,,vegetables ,,and ,,insects ,,and ,,diseases ,,attacking ,,them ,,asparagus ,keep the beds closely cut in spring and as soon as the shoots are allowed to grow spray with ,bordeaux-arsenate of lead mixture4 ,,beans-,,anthracnose ,spray with ,bordeaux mixture when an inch or two high and repeat as necessary4 ,,bean ,,beetle ,spray with kerosene emulsion1 being sure that it reaches every part of the under side of the leaves4 ,,bean ,,weevil ,fumigate the seed before planting with carbon-bisulphide1 in a closed vessel for twenty-four hours or with formaldehyde1 using one teaspoonful to a pint of water and wetting the seed and covering close a few hours4 ,,flea ,,beetle ,spray with arsenate of lead or ,bordeaux-arsenate mixture4 ,,beet-,,leaf ,,spot ,spray with ,bordeaux mixture and repeat once in two weeks but the leaves must not be used for greens after spraying begins4 ,,cabbage ,,and ,,cauliflower ,aphis3 spray with kerosene emulsion and repeat as needful until the heads are nearly grown4 ,,cabbage ,,worm ,spray with poisoned resin-lime mixture if the plants are young2 after heads have formed use kerosene emulsion or hot water1 preferably the latter4 ,,cabbage ,,root ,,maggot ,protect the plants with disks of tar paper and wet the soil with ,paris green solution or emulsion composed of one pound of soap1 one gallon of boiling water and one pint of crude carbolic acid diluted with forty parts of water1 using sufficient to soak the soil several inches4 ,,celery ,,blight ,spray with ,bordeaux mixture once in two weeks1 until plants are half grown4 ,,cucumbers ,for the striped beetle1 use tobacco dust about the hills4 ,spray plants and ground with kerosene emulsion4 ,wrap rags saturated with kerosene about sticks and stick in center of hills to repel bugs with the odor4 ,better still1 protect hills with frames of wire screening or mosquito netting4 ,spray with ,bordeaux-arsenate of lead every two weeks4 ,,squash ,,bug ,hand pick the first bugs that appear and find and destroy all eggs4 ,dust with ,bug ,death4 ,protect with wire cloth4 ,,blight ,leaves become spotted or covered with down4 ,spray every two weeks with ,bordeaux mixture4 ,,onions ,blight4--,spray every ten days with two-thirds strength ,bordeaux mixture4 ,root lice4--,open trench along side the plants and apply salt freely4 ,,peas--,,aphis ,spray with kerosene emulsion until pods are filling2 then spray with hot water4 ,,peas--,,mildew ,spray with ,bordeaux mixture containing resin wash to make it stick1 or with ,pyrox4 ,,potato--,,colorado ,,beetle ,hand pick to destroy eggs4 ,if young appear spray or dust with ,paris green or ,pyrox and repeat as often as necessary4 ,,flea ,,beetle ,keep plants well covered with ,bordeaux mixture or ,pyrox4 ,,scab ,do not plant on freshly manured land1 should be manured in fall or ,february at latest4 ,soak seed in formaldehyde before planting and dip each piece in sulphur4 ,,squash ,,borer ,slit infested stem and destroy worm and cover injured branch with earth or stone4 ,,squash ,,bugs ,use tobacco stems freely about hills4 ,spray with hot water very early in morning4 ,,tomato ,for leaf-blight4--,spray with ,bordeaux mixture every ten days4 ,,tomato ,,worms ,pick worms1 gather eggs and spray with ,paris green or ,pyrox4 ,do not use poison after the fruit is set4 ,fall-plough the tomato lot to rid the soil of the chrysalids of the worm4 ,,caution ,in nearly all cases of surface infestation of plants1 the insects can be destroyed with clear hot water1 hot soapsuds of either whale oil soap or ivory soap or kerosene emulsion and this should be the first resort1 using poison solutions only when the former fail to give relief4 ,bordeaux mixture is so generally indicated for all diseases of foliage and kerosene for so large a number of insects that it pays to prepare these at home in the large quantities and have them always on hand4 ,the kerosene sometimes goes back and needs to be forced with the pump into a fresh emulsion4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,winter ,,storage ,it is in the late days of fall that one begins to realize substantially on the summer's investment of seed1 time and labor in the garden4 ,previous to this one has watched the maturing of the summer vegetables with an eye to their immediate use2 now one sees before one rich stores of food that shall tide one safely through many lean days when the price of food goes soaring and the visible supply temporarily disappears4 ,if one is putting into cellar storage an abundance of such sugar producing vegetables as beets1 squashes1 carrots1 parsnips and the like one need not fear any injury to the health of the family from a lack of sugar if these are used freely1 for they will convert themselves into the needed sweet and although they may not be quite so palatable as cake and candy will supply their place in the economy of the physical system4 ,most winter vegetables need to be kept in cold storage1 not in a warm1 dry place2 for this reason a furnace-heated cellar is not satisfactory1 but an adjoining room that is connected by a door that can be opened to admit warm air in a severe spell of winter weather is desirable4 ,for certain roots that are not injured by a low temperature1 or even slight freezing1 an earth cellar is satisfactory4 ,a cellar of this sort usually admits of piling vegetables on the floor or in pens on the floor and throwing dirt over them to exclude the air and prevent evaporation1 and as the vegetables are used the surplus earth can be thrown out on the floor and the labor of storing is much lessened1 for it is no small task to carry heavy baskets of earth into the vegetable cellar and to remove it again in the spring4 ,if a small room can be arranged adjoining the cellar proper and bins divided off around the sides and the earth allowed to remain from year to year the task of winter storage will be slight4 ,beets1 carrots1 turnips1 cabbage1 parsnips1 salsify1 celery1 all these things belong in the earth cellar and apples1 too1 may be stored in baskets1 barrels or boxes here and will not be injured by light freezing1 as it is heat and dry atmosphere that most militate against the successful keeping of winter apples4 ,a few other vegetables call for dry1 rather warm quarters1 like the winter squash1 onion1 sweet and ,irish potato1 but good ventilation is indispensable for all4 ,the chief merit of the root-cellar lies in the fact that it can be well ventilated1 the windows being opened at times when it would be untenable to open them in rooms devoted to the storage of canned fruit and like perishable things4 ,the windows in the vegetable cellar should not be permanently closed until severe winter weather1 though they may be closed during storms and sharp falls of temperature4 ,i have found that the losses from frost were less in direct proportion to the amount of fresh air admitted and in some mild winters the windows have remained open the entire time1 the covering of earth being sufficient to preserve the vegetables in excellent shape until spring4 ,even when such things as are usually stored in the earth cellar are frozen stiff1 they will be quite usable if thawed out in cold water4 ,the water will draw the ice to the surface and it should be allowed to thaw1 when the vegetables will be found entirely usable1 but any vegetable that thaws out soft is beyond redemption and should at once be discarded4 ,also any vegetables found decaying in the cellar should at once be removed and the cause also removed4 ,usually it will be found that too much heat and too little fresh air are the trouble2 opening a window will rectify both troubles4 ,,potatoes ,being our most important winter vegetables should be stored with great care4 ,practically their storage begins in the field when they are dug2 they should be dug on a bright1 dry day1 preferably in the morning that the tubers should have time to dry off if at all damp1 before being picked up and carried in4 ,it will pay to sort in the field as they are gathered1 throwing the culls--small potatoes and any that have been injured in digging--by themselves4 ,these will be of value for feeding poultry1 rabbits1 goats and any stock on the place2 they are excellent for horses1 keeping the skin and coat in fine shape4 ,potatoes may lie on the ground in the sun long enough to dry off thoroughly1 but not longer2 left exposed to the light they will turn green and this discoloration is poisonous4 ,they should be turned over once so that the under side of the potatoes may dry equally4 ,illustration3 ,the advantage of having your garden near the home is clearly shown here ,the best equipment for storing potatoes in the cellar consists of long bins divided into compartments that will hold from one to two bushels2 these bins should have holes bored in the bottom for ventilation and they should be raised somewhat from the floor4 ,never store potatoes directly on the floor as this is the coldest part of the cellar and also the dampest2 heat rises and cold falls so what heat there may be in the cellar will circulate beneath the bins and if1 for any reason1 it is necessary to supply artificial heat in the way of oil-stoves or lamps during a spell of zero weather the heat can get under the potatoes and raise the temperature in the bottom of the bins as well as on the top4 ,when the potatoes are in the bins they must be covered to exclude light and prevent their turning green4 ,the potatoes should be examined occasionally during winter to be sure that none are decaying or being affected by frost4 ,as a general thing potatoes are not frosted if the skin crackles when the finger nail is pressed into it1 but slight touches of frost sometimes do not affect the crispness of the skin but is shown by the potatoes becoming wet after lying for a while in a warm room1 or by a sweetish taste when cooked4 ,at that stage they are not injured for food but are less palatable and are liable to develop a queer fungus blight in the center4 ,as spring approaches the potatoes will begin growth at the eyes-sprout1 as it is called1 and should be looked over and all growth rubbed off4 ,this will probably have to be done more than once as the season advances4 ,,sweet ,,potatoes ,are far more difficult to carry through the winter than the ,irish potatoes4 ,they require more warmth and a dryer atmosphere1 and should be stored in boxes of dry sand and set on some support away from the floor4 ,the furnace cellar1 if not too warm is the best place for them and it is well to use them freely so as to lessen the loss from decay as much as possible4 ,,winter ,,onions ,should be stored in a dry place1 a little above freezing4 ,slight frost does not injure onions1 but repeated freezing and thawing does1 while too much heat will start them to growing4 ,an upstairs room that receives sufficient heat to keep it from freezing will do nicely and it is a good plan to use the best onions first so that those which are unfit for use towards spring will not be so much of a loss2 however1 as these onions make the very best of green onions they are by no means a total loss1 but the small and inferior ones will do quite as well for this purpose1 for it is the live germ only that is important1 all the onion body is formed anew4 ,where there is a hanging shelf in a cellar that is dry and warm the onions can often be wintered there successfully4 ,,winter ,,squash ,require a rather warm and dry situation2 the cellar rarely affords the right conditions for wintering them successfully4 ,an upstairs room or garret where a chimney passes through is often just the thing for them as they may be piled in a heap near the chimney1 with layers of excelsior or straw between1 and protected with blankets or quilts and so pass the winter in good condition4 ,from such a storage ,i have taken perfectly sound1 dry ,hubbards in mid-,june and ,march squash are by no means a rarity4 ,,beets ,may be dug any time before the ground freezes up2 the shorter time any vegetable has to remain in cold storage the better for it1 so if not brought in until about ,thanksgiving the delay is all to the good4 ,if the beets are to be stored in a root cellar covered with earth it is not material whether they are topped or not4 ,i have sometimes thought that they kept rather better if the tops were allowed to remain2 certainly there is1 then1 no loss from bleeding1 and if piled in heaps with the tops all one way overlapping each other1 but the tops free1 it is far easier to find and remove them when wanted4 ,slight freezing does not injure beets if thawed out in cold water1 but severe freezing does1 so that sufficient earth should be used to cover them and the earth may be protected with blankets if necessary4 ,if no root cellar is available the beets should be topped and packed with earth in bins or boxes in the vegetable cellar4 ,if necessary to store in furnace cellar place as far from the furnace as possible4 ,where no other place for storage is available running a partition across one end or corner of the cellar will provide a place that will keep most vegetables in good shape and the expense will be covered by the saving in stock4 ,the various wall boards advertised are excellent material with which to construct these little storage places and any handy man1 or woman1 for that matter1 can put up something that will answer the purpose by the aid of a hammer and saw1 a sheet or two of board and a few pieces of two-by-four to nail to4 ,,cabbage ,are best stored in the root cellar1 they may be pulled and stood up in the corner of the cellar and the roots buried in somewhat damp earth or they may be cut1 the roughest leaves trimmed and the heads buried in earth1 setting them upside down so that the earth will not work inside the leaves2 handled in this way they should come out sound and good in spring4 ,wrapping in newspapers1 where the supply is limited is sometimes successful1 the main thing being to protect from the air and too great cold and to prevent the spread of decay which may attack individual heads4 ,,cauliflower ,may be pulled at the approach of severe weather1 the lower leaves removed and the plants put root down1 buried in soil1 in boxes or pens in the root cellar and will be available for some time1 but do not keep through the winter like cabbage4 ,,celery ,should be dug1 with the roots intact and placed roots down in boxes of wet soil or sand in the dark cellar1 packing the plants close together to exclude air4 ,if the cellar is necessarily light1 the plants should be shaded or a corner of the cellar may be enclosed to afford protection from light4 ,a movable partition made from wall board is a very handy thing to have in the root cellar as it makes possible the providing of special conditions as needed4 ,,parsnips ,although parsnips are better for remaining in the ground until spring a supply for winter use should be dug in the fall1 topped and buried in boxes of sand or earth in the cellar4 ,this may be done in either the root or the kitchen cellar1 as freezing does not injure the parsnip providing they thaw out in the ground or in water4 ,,salsify ,requires the same treatment as parsnips--leaving the main crop in the ground until spring but bringing in a supply for winter use4 ,the main thing in the storing of all root vegetables is to prevent wilting more than freezing4 ,vegetables stored under any conditions1 without the protective covering of earth to exclude air1 soon become soft and wilted and unfit for food4 ,,turnips ,are especially sensitive to a dry atmosphere and must always be buried in sand or earth if they are to retain their crispness and flavor4 ,they should not be dug until a touch of frost has sweetened them1 then they should be topped1 reserving the tops for the pig or rabbits and the roots stored as directed4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,canning ,,the ,,garden ,,surplus ,,for ,,winter ,,use ,the fullest measure of benefit from the garden has not been obtained unless one has preserved for future use the more succulent forms of vegetables that are not susceptible to preservation through winter in the usual form of cold storage4 ,those early vegetables which are so keen an incentive to the planting of a garden--young beets1 spinach greens1 string beans1 limas1 peas1 tomatoes and the like must be preserved in a cooked form1 hermetically sealed from the air to preserve them from spoiling4 ,this the commercial canners have done for years and we have been content to let them do this work for us at a price that has added materially to the high cost of living1 while our own garden product1 often of a far better quality1 has gone to waste4 ,market gardeners who supply the canneries grow vegetables with a keen eye to their productiveness4 ,if one vegetable will produce a half or a third more to an acre than another variety somewhat better1 it is only human to grow that one1 but the private garden is not1 as a rule1 grown with a sole idea of profit2 it is quality and the enjoyment of the product that is looked for and only those vegetables that will produce a high grade product will be grown4 ,the home canning of vegetables has been neglected owing to the uncertainty of results4 ,occasionally one found a housekeeper who could can corn successfully1 but the results usually were unsatisfactory1 all this1 however1 is changed since the government experts of the ,agricultural ,department have1 by careful experiments along the lines of all sorts of vegetable products1 worked out canning schedules that only require careful following to insure success4 ,the government bulletins give explicit instructions as to necessary equipment1 method of handling each separate vegetable and try1 in all possible ways1 to insure success for the worker4 ,at first glance the amount of equipment seems burdensome and some of the requirements unnecessary1 but ,i have found that it is not safe to slight any one of them1 but that there are short cuts in the work that materially lessen the labor4 ,it will not always be convenient to supply oneself with a canning outfit involving much expense2 especially will this be the case in the small family where only a moderate amount of canning is to be done1 though the regular canning outfits greatly simplify and ease up the work4 ,a home-made outfit will1 however1 take care of all the surplus from the small home garden1 especially where there are but two or three cans to be handled at one time4 ,there are always vegetables that mature their fruits sparingly--too many for immediate use1 but not enough to sell4 ,however1 in order that the vines or plants should continue to bear heavily1 all such products as string and lima beans1 tomatoes1 green corn and the like should be gathered as each reaches its most perfect stage4 ,this often involves some waste unless it can be utilized in some way and here is where the canning is effective1 as the continual canning of only one or two cans at a time results in the course of a summer in a well-filled cupboard that will insure one against any serious food shortage that may arise during the winter4 ,there are five types of canning outfits3 ,homemade outfits1 constructed of such utensils as wash boilers1 tin pails1 milk cans1 metal wash tubs and lard pails4 ,the lard pails are especially usable and cream pails are excellent where only a few cans are to be processed at once2 even a teakettle can be made to do duty where only one or two pint cans are to be cooked4 ,any metal vessel that will allow the water to come at least an inch above the tops of the cans will do4 ,hot-,water-,bath ,commercial ,outfits are constructed usually for outdoor work1 with a sterilizing vat1 lifting-trays1 firebox1 and smokepipe1 combined in one piece4 ,they are light and convenient4 ,they may be moved about as desired1 even carried to the orchard or garden where apples and corn are to be canned in quantity1 but are more adapted to clubs and neighborhood cooperative work than to the needs of a small family4 ,water-,seal ,outfits consist of a double-walled bath and cover which projects down into the water between the outer and inner walls1 thus making three metal walls and two water-jackets between the sterilizing vat and the outside of the canner4 ,a high temperature can be maintained more uniformly than with the hot-water-bath outfit1 since the escape of steam is prevented and a slight steam pressure is maintained4 ,steam-,pressure ,outfits are made to carry from five to thirty pounds' pressure and are equipped with steam-tight sterilizer1 lifting crate1 thermometer1 or pressure gauge1 safety valve and steam petcock2 they are1 of course1 the most perfect equipment and economical of labor and fuel4 ,aluminum ,pressure ,cookers are combination outfits for cooking and canning and have the advantage of being useful all the year around4 ,they are light in construction1 economical of heat and will carry as high as thirty pounds steam pressure2 they are equipped the same as steam-pressure outfits4 ,the purpose of this chapter1 however1 is not to go into the methods necessary for caring for large quantities of vegetables at one time nor the expenditure of any considerable sum in effecting the conservation of garden food2 rather it is intended to help the housewife to save1 cheaply and easily1 her garden surplus as it accumulates day by day4 ,fuller details than are in the scope of this chapter can be gained through the canning and food preservation bulletins sent out by the ,department of ,agriculture at ,washington and by the various states4 ,the same general principles pertain to all fruits and vegetables to be canned1 only the time of processing varying in individual cases4 ,the vegetables to be canned should always be perfect of their kind and absolutely fresh2 indeed1 it is better to have everything ready for canning before they are gathered1 then dress1 sterilize and blanch and get into the cans as rapidly as possible4 ,the ,cold ,pack ,process calls for1 first1 the sterilizing of the product by plunging for five or six minutes in boiling water4 ,this is best accomplished by either a wire basket1 lined with cheese-cloth1 if the vegetable is small1 like peas or string beans1 or alone for such things as tomatoes1 peppers or corn on cob1 or by a large piece of cheese-cloth a yard square at least4 ,after blanching the vegetables must be plunged at once in cold water1 to set the color and firm the surface4 ,they are then packed at once in the cans1 a teaspoon of salt added to each quart and the can filled with boiling water1 rubber and top put in place1 but not screwed tight1 and the cans placed in the container1 the water of which must come at least an inch above the top of the cans1 and cooked1 or processed1 for the time indicated for each product4 ,before using the cans they should be sterilized by boiling1 or at least thoroughly heating to obviate danger of cracking when plunged into the hot container4 ,the government directions state quite emphatically that the cans should be boiled but after putting up several hundred cans of vegetables of all sorts1 without this precaution1 all of which kept perfectly1 ,i have come to the conclusion that it cuts out a lot of unnecessary time and equipment1 for the necessity of having one large container to sterilize cans1 another to sterilize the vegetables1 a kettle of boiling water to fill up the cans1 and the container for processing1 entails a large amount of working space and an unnecessary amount of fuel4 ,if any short cuts can be achieved it is certainly that much to the good1 so ,i have been able to shorten the work so that much of my own canning has been done on a one-burner oil stove with one vessel of boiling water for processing1 blanching1 sterilizing jars1 etc41 and one pail of cold water for blanching and a good1 big table for handling the vegetables4 ,in handling the work ,i have everything ready before gathering the vegetables4 ,for a few pint or quart cans ,i use a cream-pail which will hold four pints or three quarts4 ,in this ,i have boiling plenty of water4 ,i place the cans in a pan adding a little hot water1 turning them carefully until warm through and then fill up and cover4 ,put the vegetables in the wire basket or cheese-cloth1 dip them in the boiling water the specified time1 plunge into cold water for an instant1 take out cans1 one at a time1 being careful not to touch the tops with the hands1 place rubbers1 first dipped in the hot water1 fill cans with vegetables1 with a teaspoon of salt for the quart size1 half a teaspoonful for pints1 fill with the boiling water from the container1 place caps--which have also been sterilized--on1 screw down1 but not tight and place in container1 being sure that there is abundance of water1 for the long cooking lowers the water materially and unless there is another kettle of boiling water available for filling up the water may go below the top of the can and the result will be blown out rubbers which will have to be replaced4 ,this is one of the serious handicaps of canning by the cold-pack method4 ,the remedy1 however1 is simple4 ,remove the can1 remove the cap and put a fresh rubber in place1 replace the cap and plunge again in the container and boil for five minutes longer4 ,the changing of the rubber should be done as quickly as possible and care should be taken to avoid touching the edge of the top of the can or the inside of the cap while doing so4 ,if there is any delay in replacing the rubber it will be better to boil ten instead of five minutes4 ,when the canning is done on the kitchen range or on a three-burner gas or oil stove it will be better to fill the cans with water from the teakettle and to sterilize the cans in a dishpan1 allowing them to heat on the stove until required1 but excellent results will follow the shorter method4 ,pint cans are most desirable for such vegetables as string beans1 peas1 lima beans and the like--things which are used alone and not combined with other foods as tomatoes and corn4 ,pint cans1 however1 have about disappeared from the market and even quarts have been at a premium4 ,and one should take unusual care in cleansing cans and tops as soon as emptied1 and placing them in a dry place until wanted for another year's canning4 ,a cellar is not a suitable place to store cans1 it is far too damp and conducive to mould4 ,if cans are properly cleansed and dried and the tops adjusted and stored in a dry upstairs closet they will need far less sterilizing when required for use4 ,often in canning vegetables it will be found that there is an uneven quantity--that is1 there will be a quantity of one kind left after filling the cans1 but not enough for another full can2 if desired this can be put in a can and cooked with the rest for the family dinner1 or it may be put away with the canned goods1 for ,i have found the partially filled cans keep quite as well as the full ones and there are often times when the lesser quantity will be all that is needed for the meal1 or it may be just enough for a salad or to combine with some other vegetable in a soup or entre4 ,in placing the cans in the container there must always be a rack of some sort to keep the cans from direct contact with the bottom of the vessel4 ,this should1 if possible1 be in the form of a wire rack4 ,the wire trivets to set hot dishes on1 which may be obtained at the ten cent counter of any department store1 are excellent for use in cream cans2 they just fill the bottom and as they rest on little half-inch feet they allow the water to circulate freely beneath the cans1 which is very important and failure to provide for which is sometimes a cause of blown out rubbers4 ,for canning with large cans--quarts and two quarts--the twenty-five pound lard-cans are excellent4 ,they are tall enough to insure plenty of water over the top of the cans and will accommodate four or five two quart and five or six one quart cans and seven pints1 though some recommend placing two tiers of pints in the container1 but ,i have always thought that rather risky4 ,the lard-cans are very light to handle and the lids fit closely1 retaining the steam4 ,whenever there is an imperfect closing of the lid it will be well to place a towel over the top of the can before adjusting the lid to insure the retention of the steam4 ,if this is done the water will not evaporate so rapidly4 ,the following schedule of time for processing vegetables is that suggested by the ,department of ,agriculture and is authoritative4 ,in every instance the time for processing must be counted from the time the water commences to boil after the cans are put in the container1 and the boiling must be continuous4 ,,canning ,,directions ,,for ,,vegetables ,asparagus--,the green grasses grown in the home garden do not1 as a rule1 can well4 ,they are too tender and delicate and break down under the long cooking suggested4 ,it might be well to experiment with this1 cooking only a short time and if the asparagus keeps two weeks or more1 open a can and test the flavor and if found acceptable more can be canned4 ,it requires the tough white asparagus like the ,bonvillet or ,argenteuil for canning and those are the kinds used in commercial canning4 ,possibly if the green grasses were cut below the ground as is done with the ,french grasses it would stand up better under cooking4 ,the directions follow4 ,asparagus--,gather and clean at once1 scraping off the scales on the sides1 and cut to equal length4 ,it takes about three bunches for a pint can as they shrink in blanching4 ,blanch five minutes1 plunge at once in cold water4 ,pack in cans1 sliding the stalks in carefully1 butts down1 fill with hot water1 add one teaspoonful of salt to a quart1 place rubber and cap in position but do not screw down tight4 ,place in container as fast as filled and boil #ij minutes4 ,remove and stand can on cap to cool4 ,beets--,select young beets about an inch and a quarter in diameter as the small beets retain their color better than larger ones4 ,about an inch of the top may be left on4 ,wash very carefully but do not break the skin or remove the tap-root4 ,blanch four to five minutes1 plunge at once in cold water4 ,remove skins by slipping them off with the hand1 avoid the use of knife if possible and pack at once in cans4 ,fill with hot water adding one teaspoonful of salt to the can and place rubber and cap in place1 place in container and boil #ij minutes4 ,beans1 ,string--,string or hull1 blanch in hot water from five to ten minutes1 or cut in half inch lengths and steam for five minutes--for small quantities a wire flour sieve over a teakettle will answer admirably--dip quickly in cold water1 pack in cans4 ,fill with hot water1 adding one teaspoonful of salt to the quart4 ,place rubbers and caps in position1 cook for #abj minutes1 remove and invert to cool and test the joint4 ,beans1 ,lima--,shell and plunge in boiling water for five to ten minutes1 plunge immediately in cold water4 ,pack at once in cans1 handling very carefully4 ,put rubbers and cap in position but not tight4 ,place in container and cook #ahj minutes4 ,cauliflower--,lay the heads in salted water half an hour to free from any insects that may have lodgment in the head4 ,break the head into convenient sized pieces and blanch in boiling water five minutes1 plunge at once into cold water1 pack in cans1 fill with boiling water1 add one teaspoonful of salt to the quart and place rubber and cap in position but not tight1 place in container and cook #fj minutes4 ,this is the government time but ,i have found it overcooks the cauliflower4 ,corn--,this seems to give home canners more trouble than any other vegetable4 ,this is probably caused by delay in the operation4 ,the canning of corn involves more labor than any other vegetable and it is difficult for one person alone to handle it successfully4 ,two working together1 one cutting the corn from the ear and the other packing it in the can1 will insure a better result4 ,the corn to be canned should be of the sweetest variety--,golden ,bantam or ,bantam ,evergreen being excellent sorts4 ,it should be picked at just the right stage--between the milk and the dough stage1 or when the milk that flows when the grain is broken with the thumb nail looks milky and not watery4 ,it is better to do one can at a time1 blanching and dipping in cold water and packing the corn in the can1 allowing a half inch at the top for the swelling of the corn1 adding a teaspoonful of sugar and one of salt for every quart and filling with hot water1 capping and placing in the container before going on with the next canful4 ,the first can put in will not be injured by the extra cooking4 ,waterlogged or soaked corn is an indication of slowness in packing4 ,if it is desired to can corn on the ear1 blanch1 plunge into cold water and pack at once in cans large enough to hold several ears4 ,the two quart economy jars are excellent for canning corn on the ears4 ,whole corn is a little difficult to pack economically1 but it can be packed closely if the jar is laid on the side when packing and the corn slid in1 the first row being put in butt down and the second tip down4 ,add a tablespoonful of sugar to each quart can and do not fill more than one-third full with boiling water4 ,when the can is filled with water the flavor of the corn is impaired1 and it is more or less water-soaked4 ,the big ,stowell's ,evergreen ,corn is beautiful when canned whole2 indeed so fine is its appearance that it is almost worth while to can it just for its appearance on the shelves of the fruit cupboard4 ,dipping the tops of the cans in paraffin aids in preserving the contents4 ,when heating for use in winter1 place in oven instead of hot water as this will render it more dry4 ,okra--,gather the pods while still tender1 wipe clean1 plunge into boiling water five minutes1 plunge immediately in cold water1 remove and cut into half-inch rings4 ,pack in can1 adding one teaspoonful of salt to the quart4 ,fill with boiling water1 place rubber and cap in position1 tighten and put at once in container and cook #abj minutes4 ,remove1 tighten cap and reverse to cool and test seal4 ,peas--,should always be freshly gathered1 shell and steam over boiling water for ten minutes1 blanch and pack at once into cans1 adding one teaspoon of salt and one of sugar to each quart4 ,put rubber and cap in position1 but do not tighten4 ,place in container and sterilize #ahj minutes4 ,peas should be very carefully handled4 ,a cloudy appearance of the water is an indication of rough handling or broken peas4 ,tomatoes--,scald until skin loosens sufficiently to remove easily1 cold dip1 empty the seed cavities and cut in small pieces4 ,pack at once in cans1 pressing the tomato down full4 ,add one teaspoonful of salt to the quart but no water4 ,place rubber and cap and put in container and cook #bb minutes4 ,remove1 reverse to cool and test seal4 ,tomatoes cooked in the open-pan method so long customary are so satisfactory that it is scarcely worth while to change the method1 unless one finds the cold-pack way more convenient and agreeable4 ,if preferred tomatoes may be canned whole or simply cut in two and the seed cavities emptied4 ,smaller or broken tomatoes may be cooked and passed through a sieve to remove the seeds and the pure thus formed used to fill in between the slices in the can2 this makes a very fine product4 ,it is not advisable to can vegetables that can be stored successfully in cellar or store rooms2 such products should not deplete the already scanty store of cans2 but in the case of people living in flats or apartments where there are no storage facilities squash and pumpkins for pies may be utilized in this way to advantage4 ,squash and ,pumpkins--,prepare and cut into convenient sections1 blanch three minutes1 cold dip4 ,pack closely in hot jars or cans4 ,fill with boiling water1 add teaspoonful of salt to each quart4 ,put rubbers and caps of jars into position but do not tighten4 ,put in container and sterilize #abj minutes4 ,remove1 tighten caps and reverse to cool and test seal4#d ,soups--,odds and ends of vegetables that occur during the summer may be utilized for vegetable soups4 ,it often happens that tomatoes are picked by the chickens so that they are unsalable1 but otherwise sound1 or they may be spotted in a way that does not preclude the use of the uninjured portion2 such tomatoes may be used for canning if the injured portion is carefully removed4 ,okra that is getting too large to be left ungathered1 a few string or lima beans1 carrots that are crowded--anything in the vegetable line that lends itself to the concoction of a palatable soup may be utilized and so make the garden just that much more remunerative4 ,if possible the amount of tomato should nearly or quite equal that of the other vegetables combined4 ,the tomatoes should be scalded1 cold dipped1 the seed cavities emptied and the pulp cooked until it will pass through a wire sieve to free it from the seeds4 ,the other vegetables should be blanched1 plunged into cold water and put through the meat chopper and added to the tomato and the cans filled1 but no water added1 the juice of the vegetables1 and especially of the tomato1 being sufficient4 ,the following combination makes an excellent soup3 ,when the cans are opened for use in winter beef stock to give the proper consistency should be added1 or one bouillon cube to each portion to be served and sufficient water may be substituted or a cream soup may be prepared by using milk and adding rolled crackers4 ,vegetable ,soup-- bushel tomatoes1 three stalks of celery or one teaspoonful of celery seed1 one head cabbage1 six carrots1 three turnips1 six ears corn cut down through each row of kernels and the kernels sliced off the ear1 peck string beans1 two quarts shelled lima beans1 one dozen onions1 three red peppers1 six salsify roots1 one pint of okra pods 7sliced7 one cup salt1 one tablespoon black pepper4 ,prepare tomatoes as suggested above1 cut all the other vegetables fine and add to the tomatoes4 ,separate into two parts4 ,to one part add one cup of rice1 cooked till tender1 to the remainder an equal amount of cooked barley4 ,fill in cans and process two hours4 ,soups can scarcely be cooked too much1 as unless the vegetables are thoroughly softened the product is unsatisfactory4 ,the cabbage and turnips may be omitted if their flavor is not liked4 ,the government bulletins give a number of formulas for soups and camp rations which are worth considering when conserving one's garden supplies1 if one already has cans and tops4 7,the pint cans are best as the soup is in solid form and a pint is sufficient for a family1 when reduced with broth1 water or milk47 ,the cost of the soup per can will not exceed two or three cents as against ten for the much smaller cans purchased at the grocery4 ,sweet ,corn ,dried--,as corn is more trouble to can than any of the other vegetables and more uncertain in its results1 many housekeepers prefer to dry it1 and a way that is very highly recommended is as follows3 ,the corn is gathered when still in the milk stage1 somewhat younger than for canning4 ,it is necessary for two to handle the product as it must all be finished in one operation--that is1 it is a one-day job1 and a rather strenuous and busy one1 too4 ,as in canning1 the corn is blanched1 plunged in cold water1 the grains scored through the center and sliced from the cob1 care being given that no part of the cob is included4 ,it is then placed on plates or tins with a small amount of butter or butter substitute added--just enough to prevent the corn sticking to the plates--and placed in the oven and on top of the stove to dry4 ,it must be stirred almost continuously to prevent burning or sticking4 ,only as much corn must be prepared at one time as can be accommodated on the stove or in the oven and one person must prepare and cut the corn while the other stirs and dries it4 ,the dry corn is then stored in paper bags or paper cartons until wanted1 and is said to be a very delicious product1 much better liked than canned corn4 ,bulletins for ,drying ,fruit and ,vegetables are sent out by the ,department of ,agriculture on request and should be very helpful to the housewife4 ,footnote #d3 ,or--cut in large pieces and steam or bake until soft1 remove from shell and mash smooth4 ,fill cans1 pressing down evenly with a wooden spoon or potato masher1 place rubber and caps and plunge in container for one hour4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,fall ,,work ,,in ,,the ,,garden ,if the garden has been well tended during the growing season there will not be much rubbish to clear away and the absence of weeds will make the harvesting of the winter vegetables a pleasure4 ,a bright1 sunny day is best for digging all root vegetables1 especially potatoes which should be allowed to lie on the ground until dry enough for the dirt to shake off1 leaving the tubers clean and sightly4 ,after frost has killed the vegetables so that no further good will be derived from them they should be pulled and piled in a heap to dry and be burned2 especially is this desirable if they have been infested with any disease or insects during summer1 but if free from any harmful conditions they should1 preferably1 be put on the compost heap to add fertility to the coming season's garden4 ,wire trellises1 poles and wires used for the training of peas1 tomatoes1 cucumbers and the like should now be removed and stored away for next year4 ,all boxes1 boards or sash that can harbor insects or the chrysalids of cabbage or other worms1 should be raised1 cleaned and removed4 ,the winter treatment of the garden will depend upon conditions that have existed during summer4 ,if the garden has been free from insects and disease it will have been a good plan to sow the entire area to rye for a cover crop during winter1 to be turned under for green manure in the spring4 ,this protects the ground from leaching during winter1 especially if the winter should be open1 and adds materially to the fertility of the soil1 but if there has been trouble with insects and disease it will be better to fall-plough1 leaving the ground in furrows so that as many as possible of the chrysalids and larv of the various plant enemies may be destroyed4 ,if onion seed has been sown in ,august for early spring onions it will be well to give the beds a covering of straw or marsh hay at the approach of cold weather4 ,the rhubarb rows may be banked with coarse manure from the barnyard and the asparagus bed may have the tops removed and the roots protected with manure2 this will hasten the production of shoots in the spring and make stronger roots4 ,if there is a bit of land available for early peas it may be ploughed and the furrows filled with well-rotted manure1 each furrow turned over the manure in the next and the rows marked with sticks2 in early spring1 drills may be opened with the hand cultivators and the seed for the very earliest peas sown4 ,if the lettuce1 carrots1 beets1 salsify1 endive1 spinach1 parsnips and radishes have proved satisfactory and any of the annual varieties have been allowed to go to seed it will be wise to save the seed for the coming season as the increasing shortage of seeds makes it more or less problematical whether a supply may be forthcoming another season4 ,lettuce1 endive1 spinach1 ,swiss chard1 ,chinese cabbage1 and radishes seed freely the first year1 beets1 carrots1 salsify1 parsnips and turnips the second year and the mature vegetables must be planted in the spring to produce seed4 ,if there are good roots of carrots and beets1 these may be stored in sand in the cellar and planted out in the spring when they will bloom and produce seed4 ,the parsnips and salsify left in the ground may be dug in the spring and reset where they are to bloom and a few plants will give sufficient seed for the home garden4 ,the seed from the best tomatoes should have been saved1 a few melons1 cucumbers and eggplants allowed to ripen and the finest of the red peppers saved for seed4 ,the sweetest and driest of the winter squash should have its seed set aside for the coming year4 ,even should there prove to be an abundance of seed this saving will do no harm2 the raising of seed of biennial vegetables is interesting and should there be a real scarcity of seed one will be very thankful of the forethought which makes the shortage innocuous as far as one's own garden is concerned and1 besides1 one may do one's little bit by supplying friends and neighbors4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,the ,,annual ,,garden ,for the busy woman who has but a modicum of time to spare for the growing of flowers1 but is loath to relinquish entirely their cheerful presence about the grounds and house1 the annual garden with its wide diversity of color1 season and charm affords the greatest possible returns for the outlay required4 ,a few packets of seed1 most of which may be purchased for from five to ten cents1 will lay the foundation for sheets and sheets of bloom and the labor of planting and caring for them will be less than is required for perennials4 ,one great advantage in growing annuals is that the beds may be freshly prepared each spring1 there is nothing in the way to retard spading--no perennial growths to be carefully worked around1 that the roots may not be injured or the new growth1 not yet above ground1 be destroyed4 ,it is all straight ahead work1 and the first early crop of weeds is completely eliminated1 grass eradicated and all is in order for the reception of the plants which may have been started in flats in the house or in a hotbed or cold frame or1 in the case of such annuals as do not take kindly to transplanting1 in the open ground4 ,nor is it necessary in the case of annuals that there should be a regular1 formally laid out garden or permanent beds4 ,a border about the base of the house along the fence or walks1 will give room for several kinds of flowers1 flowers that will be a mass of bloom from early summer until late frost4 ,a very satisfactory place for annuals ,i have found is down through the vegetable garden4 ,i like their company while ,i am at work among the useful but less ornamental vegetables1 so always plan to have a row of something mid-way of the garden2 usually the row takes the form of tea roses which never do so well for me as in this homely situation4 ,the culture is more thorough than can be given to plants in beds1 there is less crowding1 hence fewer insect pests and ,i always plan to have the adjacent vegetables of as ornamental a character as possible2 a fine row of mossy parsley on one side1 feathery carrots on the opposite row gives a charming background of green4 ,lettuce1 beets1 parsnips1 any of the pleasantly leaved greens are attractive companion rows and although the rose is the aristocrat of the garden1 objecting decidedly to sharing her bed with less royal plants ,i have never found that she objects to their presence when they keep to their own allotted row4 ,this long row through the garden is an excellent place to start seeds of hardy perennials for transplanting into permanent beds the following year1 but only for this preliminary growth1 for the annual plowing makes their permanent tenancy impracticable1 but bedding plants such as dahlias1 gladioli1 tigridias and the like will be at their best here and in their summer culture have all the characteristics of annuals4 ,for early blooming it is always worth while to sow the seeds of annuals early in the spring in flats in the house or in a hotbed or cold frame4 ,usually one can spare room in the hotbed for a few plats of seeds and these should be sown at the same time the seeds of the vegetables are sown1 sowing each separate variety in little plats by itself1 separating the plats from each other by narrow strips of wood pressed into the ground1 and labelling each plat with the names of seed1 date of sowing and1 if known1 the length of time it takes for the seed to germinate4 ,annuals1 however1 germinate more rapidly than perennials1 many appearing above ground in from three to five days after sowing1 though a few1 like the ,arctotis ,grandis1 nicotianas and ricinus1 may take from ten to fifteen days4 ,this is where the forethought of labelling the seed plats with date of sowing and period of germination is of practical value--it prevents undue impatience and discouragement when the plants fail to appear as soon as we expect them to2 but with a mixed planting of seeds of varying characteristics1 there will always be early comers to encourage one and keep alive faith in the ultimate appearance of the least and last4 ,any considerable planting of annuals should include those that will give a long season of bloom for scenic effect1 those that will be especially desirable for cut flowers and above all those special flowers which most appeal to our sentiment and are dear to us through associations or suggestions4 ,for mass planting about the base of buildings or in front of shrubbery there are few plants more effective than the celosias1 especially the varieties known as prince's feather2 many of the varieties in red and yellow effects are very good and they seem to stand the heat and drought and even the early frosts remarkably well4 ,usually a spray of the plumey blooms is a whole bouquet in itself4 ,if cut before killing frosts and brought into the house they will retain their freshness for a long time1 and potted make excellent fall and early winter plants4 ,the argemone or prickly poppy is a little known plant of rather recent introduction that is rather slow in getting started in spring1 but once on its way produces a continuous succession of large poppy-like blooms in golden yellow1 pale yellow and pure white1 the latter especially attractive with its crown of golden stamens4 ,its chief merit1 however1 consists in its immunity to frost1 continuing in full bloom well into ,november--a quality shared by few annual flowers4 ,perhaps as close a companion as can be cited is the tall-growing lupine1 a beautiful annual that comes in purest white1 rosy mauve1 sky blue1 purple and scarlet and white and mind not at all the frost of late ,october and early ,november4 ,the soft foliage would seem ill suited to cold1 but if one looks closely one will notice that the foliage is dry1 not succulent like many annuals that succumb readily to the first cold wave4 ,balsams and portulacca are notable examples of this susceptibility4 ,the nicotianas are other cold-resisting plants and have the added advantage of self-sowing--not to a troublesome extent but sufficiently to insure a yearly supply of volunteer plants without thought or trouble on the gardener's part4 ,the nicotiana does not open up well in bright sunshine1 but unfolds its snowy cups in late afternoon and on cloudy days1 but in shady positions is more generous of its beauty and is lovely when silhouetted against the flaming red of the salvias4 ,the arctotis grandis is another of the less commonly grown annuals that should be included in one's garden planting4 ,these1 too1 are sturdy defiers of the frost and exceedingly desirable as cut flowers1 remaining in bloom for a week or ten days and should be placed in a sunny position for best effect as they are real sun lovers4 ,like all the preceding they are of the easiest culture--good garden soil1 water if the season is unusually dry1 and plenty of room to develop4 ,the distance at which any plant should be set depends1 of course1 upon its manner of growth1 but it is an excellent rule to plant all erect growing plants at least half their height apart4 ,low-growing and trailing plants1 of course1 are an exception to the rule1 many requiring two or three times their height in inches apart1 as the verbena4 ,few annuals require staking1 notable exceptions being the sultanas1 tall anterrhinums1 scabiosas1 the tall stocks and a few others4 ,when staking is necessary it should be done by as inconspicuous means as possible2 bamboo stakes painted green are the neatest and most inconspicuous4 ,for masses of brilliant color there is nothing to equal the scarlet verbena1 the scarlet sage1 salvia splendens1 the various phlox ,drummondii or the dwarf nasturtium1 the scarlet or orange zinnias and the marigold1 and for sweetness one must have the sweet peas and the stock4 ,much is gained by the use of low-growing plants as a border to beds of taller plants4 ,blue lobelias1 dwarf morning glories1 ,english daisies1 sweet alyssum1 candytuft1 all require little root room and add materially to the resulting bloom4 ,for a screen to mask an undesirable view or object there are several very desirable annuals that are of the easiest culture and of most effective presence4 ,with the stately ricinus all are familiar2 less well-known is the tall cleom pungens1 with its curious flowers of pure white and white and rose1 the long1 curving anthers of which have given it the name of ,spider ,flower4 ,it is a beautiful and desirable plant1 and should be started in the house or hotbed and transplanted where it is to bloom when the nights are warm1 setting the plants two feet apart4 ,the ,nicotiana ,sylvestris is another stately plant1 growing to a height of five or six feet in good soil and1 unlike ,n4 affinnis1 its snow-white blooms remain open all day and are attractive when grown in the rear of beds of salvias4 ,like the cleom it requires room to develop4 ,practically all annuals may be sown in the open ground2 the only object in sowing in hotbeds or house and transplanting is to bring them forward early so as to have the longest possible season of bloom4 ,to speak of asters seems superfluous1 as whatever flowers may be absent from the annual garden it is a safe venture to claim that the aster will not be missing2 that is quite as it should be2 there is really no one flower that so completely meets the requirements of scenic effect and cut flower work as the asters4 ,in the stronger colors of crimson1 purple and blue it is as effective a flower as one could wish to use for mass planting1 while for more refined and delicate beauty no one could ask for anything better than the pure white and delicate shell pinks of the ,ostrich ,feather and ,late ,branching whites4 ,the ,comet asters are very artistic1 attractive flowers but1 unfortunately1 do not stand up under wet weather--a hard rain reducing them to a dismal1 raggy condition4 ,set the wide branching asters at least a foot apart and see that all asters have clean1 healthy soil to grow in to avoid the troubles that arise when conditions are unfavorable4 ,a warm1 fibrous loam1 well enriched with old manure1 is best and water should be given freely during dry weather1 especially when the buds are forming4 ,the black aster beetle is the only serious foe of the aster and makes its appearance when the flowers are in full bloom1 doing an immense amount of damage in a few hours if not destroyed as they eat the petals of the flowers1 rendering them very unsightly4 ,the only satisfactory remedy is hand picking in early morning while the beetles are sluggish4 ,if a pan of hot water or water with a little kerosene in it is carried and the beetles dropped into it as gathered it will not be difficult to control them4 ,spraying with arsenate of lead will kill them if one does not object to the use of poisons on flowers that are to be brought into the house4 ,paris green can also be used but discolors the flowers1 but hand picking has no objectionable features aside from the labor entailed1 and that is by no means prohibitive as it takes but a short time to go over a hundred plants4 ,try planting a few salvias on the shady side of the house2 they will not make as much show during the summer as those grown in the sunlight but will be in full bloom long after those in exposed positions are cut down by frost4 ,a few very desirable annuals are plants of one florescence and need to have repeated plantings of seed for a continuous bloom4 ,most conspicuous of this class of plants is the candytuft in white1 purple and red and the charming little schizanthus1 which should be sown every few weeks for a succession of blooms4 ,the plants come into bloom in a few weeks from the sowing of seed and are perfect little pyramids of bloom4 ,sow fresh seed of candytuft when the first sown plants are beginning to form flower buds2 used in this way the candytuft furnishes a most useful white for window-boxes and vases1 and is unexcelled for edgings of taller plants4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,the ,,hardy ,,garden ,is a permanent investment1 possible only in the permanent home4 ,it adds dignity and charm attainable from no other form of planting4 ,it is to the outdoor life of the home what the possession of colonial furniture and family heirlooms is to the indoor life1 and yet is neither expensive nor tedious in its inception4 ,it may be acquired fully grown1 as it were1 by an order to the florist for ready grown plants of blossoming size1 ready to give seasonal bloom1 or it may be developed in a few months1 inexpensively and most interestingly1 by procuring the seeds of as many desirable varieties of hardy perennials as one has room or inclination for and planting them in the hotbed in early spring1 and transplanting into permanent positions when large enough or1 better still1 by planting the seed in cold frames in ,august or early ,september and growing them on until cold weather when they should be protected for the winter and in the spring planted out where they are to bloom4 ,every hardy perennial set out in one's garden is an asset that will increase in value each succeeding year4 ,many have the root formation that admits of divisions--as the ,shasta daisy1 a single two year old clump usually dividing up into from six to ten blooming-size plants4 ,english violets1 ,english daisies1 polyanthus1 and many other plants may be divided annually until in time one owns large colonies of them1 and this is a point well worth understanding1--that a large number of one kind of plant is much more effective and worth while than a large number of kinds of plants1 of just one or a few individuals4 ,many plants which are inconspicuous or ineffective singly or in small groups1 surprise one with their beauty when grown in large masses or long rows4 ,the ulmaria--a variety of spira of deciduous growth--is a notable example of this4 ,planted singly it is merely a rather pretty flower2 grown in a long row it is a mass of snowy white in late ,june and ,july that compels one with its beauty4 ,its congener1 the spira fillipendula1 a lesser but most graceful growth1 also pleases one especially when grown in long rows in front of taller plants4 ,and right here is a point well worth considering in planting a hardy border--the arranging of plants in rising tiers of bloom so that a bank of bloom may be produced4 ,one effective bed that gladdened my heart for several seasons and rose in tier after tier of gracious bloom through several weeks of early summer had an initial planting next the front of tritomas1 whose scarlet torches of flame did not come into bloom until late summer1 but from then until frost made a brilliant band of color4 ,back of these was a fine planting of columbine1 next a row of scarlet lychnis alternated with white feverfew1 and still further back a full planting of the garden spira whose feathery heads of pinky-white flowers stood four or five feet high and in turn were topped with fine clumps of physostegias2 the whole planting making a beautiful bank of bloom and one not commonly seen4 ,this was a permanent planting requiring little care beyond the removal of all weeds and grass in the spring and an occasional thinning out of the plants when they became too crowded4 ,the physostegia increases rapidly by root division and the lychnis1 feverfew and aquilegias all self-sow so the bed practically never ran out or needed renewing and the cost1 except for the tritomas1 was that of a few packets of seeds--probably a total of fifty cents for some one hundred and fifty square feet of loveliness1 and there are many1 many combinations as happy and as easily acquired as that4 ,lacking the convenience of hotbeds and cold frames1 the vegetable garden is a most excellent place in which to start hardy perennials for a permanent garden4 ,flowers planted in rows among vegetables always seem to do better than anywhere else1 the reason being that they are not crowded--usually being in single rows with a foot or more of open space at each side through which the hoe and cultivator can work freely1 and where they will receive regular and constant attention throughout the growing season4 ,in a garden of say fifty feet in width1 several varieties of flowers may be grown in short lengths of ten feet or more4 ,they should be covered somewhat more deeply than when sown in the hotbed or cold frame and the ground firmed well above them1 especially if the weather is dry at the time of planting2 when the seedlings appear they will probably need thinning in order that they may not grow spindling1 but will not need the room they will require when in permanent quarters4 ,many kinds of hardy perennials will give some bloom the first year1 though1 of course1 they will not be at their best1 but they will be sufficiently pronounced to make it possible to select those most desirable for cultivation4 ,delphiniums1 for instance1 will give small spikes of bloom1 probably a foot high1 the first season and if the ,gold ,medal ,hybrids have been planted some very lovely blooms will result4 ,in the fall the plants may be lifted and set in permanent positions1 or they may be left in the ground until spring and then transplanted2 probably this is the better treatment providing the ground is not to be ploughed too early1 as some of the perennials die down in the fall and may not appear above the ground in time for very early transplanting4 ,evergreen boughs make the best winter covering1 especially when rested against some support with the tips downward1 so as to shed rain4 ,they do not mat down into a sodden mass as do leaves which have a tendency to smother and rot plants with an evergreen crown of leaves1 but protect from sun and cold winds1 at the same time admitting sufficient air to the plants to keep them in good condition4 ,when immediate effect is desired from hardy perennials which must be produced from seed1 considerable time may be gained by planting the seeds in flats in the house in early ,february1 giving them as light a position as possible1 a south window being preferable1 and transplanting the little seedlings to the hotbed when that is started in ,march or early ,april4 ,this will often force along the blooms and will certainly produce strong1 well developed plants by fall1 plants that should stand the winter and come out in spring in fine condition1 ready for a notable season of bloom4 ,while hardy perennials are generally thought of in connection with such herbaceous plants as die down to the ground in fall1 reappearing again in spring1 and the few that make a crown of winter foliage1 like the hollyhocks and delphiniums1 no perennial garden could be considered complete without an abundance of lilies4 ,these may be planted here and there1 singly and in groups among the perennials and shrubbery and will need little attention1 increasing in numbers year by year4 ,this is especially true of the candidum or annunciation lily1 which once planted continues to increase for many years1 but should have the clumps broken up once in three or four years and spread out to give more room4 ,failure to bloom successfully always calls for investigation of the condition of the bulbs4 ,usually it will be found that decay has set in or that worms or ants have invaded the bulbs4 ,in either case the bulbs should be lifted and cleaned and all diseased scales removed1 saving the scales for replanting2 reset in clean soil1 packing a handful of clean1 sharp sand and a pinch of charcoal about each bulb4 ,candidum lilies should not be set more than an inch or two below the surface of the ground1 but most other lilies1 especially the auratums1 speciosums1 ,brownii1 and giganteums should be planted six or more inches deep and well padded with sand4 ,a little pad of sphagnum moss under each bulb is excellent as it supplies the necessary drainage4 ,auratum bulbs and bulbs of the ,japanese lilies are not as permanent as the candidums and tiger lilies1 usually lasting a maximum of five years1 if left undisturbed4 ,it is not much use to plant lily bulbs1 tulips and hyacinths in ground infested with moles4 ,the moles should first be eradicated1 and then bulbs may be planted safely but it is little satisfaction to make an extensive and costly planting of bulbs only to have them become food for the moles and ground mice4 ,i have known plantings of several hundred tulips to be entirely destroyed during a single winter4 ,in one such planting of five hundred bulbs only three appeared above ground the following year4 ,a good mole trap is invaluable where moles are in evidence4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,the ,,planting ,,of ,,fall ,,bulbs ,the time for planting of hardy perennials and shrubbery is optional with the gardener1 many things doing quite as well when planted at one season as at another1 but in the planting of spring blooming bulbs less latitude exists2 these must be gotten into the ground in fall if any measure of success is desired4 ,the handling of this class of plants is one of the luxuries of gardening1 as they come all ready to commence root growth1 but in a perfect dormant condition1 and may be gotten into the ground very much at one's convenience1 and regardless of weather2 the earlier they are planted the stronger root growth they will be able to make before the ground freezes1 which makes for stronger bloom in the spring4 ,crocus1 scillas1 narcissi1 daffodils1 tulips1 hyacinths and the like may be planted from the time they can be procured from the florist 7which is usually in ,september7 until the ground freezes4 ,they will grow and bloom to perfection in any good1 well-drained garden soil1 providing it is not infested by moles and ground mice but beware of these1 as they seem to possess an insatiable appetite for bulbs and once they have entered a bed will seldom leave it until they have exhausted its resources4 ,i recall that a few years ago ,i planted1 in an empty canna bed on the front lawn1 some five hundred choice1 named tulips4 ,the following spring just three tulip plants appeared above ground--the moles having destroyed the other four hundred and ninety-seven4 ,in the flower garden where other hundreds of bulbs had been used to border beds of hardy perennials1 they fared somewhat better1 the greater part coming up1 but many had been destroyed and still others carried far from the place of their planting1 coming up as much as three feet away in the middle of paths and in sod4 ,one of the most satisfactory ways of using tulips is to plant them as a border to beds of perennials or shrubs1 setting them in single1 double or triple rows1 along the edge and leaving them to ripen and increase from year to year2 in this way one gets the greatest good at the least expenditure of time and space4 ,when they are planted in beds by themselves it is customary to lift them when through blooming and to heel them in some out-of-the-way spot until the tops have died when they may be lifted and stored in paper bags until time to plant out again in the fall4 ,this leaves the beds free for summer annuals or bedding plants4 ,if it is not desired to lift them1 then one may sow seed of some annual of light root growth such as the myostis or forget-me-not1 the schizanthus1 pansy1 verbena1 or phlox ,drumondii1 as these plants will not interfere with the maturing of the bulbs and the protection afforded them from the heat of summer will be of benefit4 ,the soil for any variety of bulbs should be rich1 mellow and thoroughly well drained and it is better in planting any but the smallest bulbs to remove a few inches of the top soil and having leveled off the surface mark it in straight lines from side to side each way so that the lines cross each other and set a bulb at each intersection of the lines4 ,for tulips the lines should be five inches apart each way and for hyacinths seven inches4 ,where solid beds of hyacinths or tulips are planted small bulbs1 such as crocus1 scilla or winter aconite1 may be used for filling in the spaces between with charming effect4 ,white crocus and blue scillas are especially dainty1 or the lovely ixias may be used but in this case the beds must be very carefully protected against the cold and covering removed with discretion in the spring4 ,narcissus1 daffodils1 jonquils and all that family appear to better advantage when planted in long double or triple rows and should be set a foot apart each way and about four inches deep4 ,these bulbs increase by forming new bulbs in a circle around the old bulb and should be allowed abundant room to increase and once planted should not be disturbed until they have become too crowded to bloom well4 ,crocuses are never so lovely as when studding the green of the lawn in early spring and this is the simplest form of planting1 it only being necessary to lift a bit of sod with a trowel1 slip a crocus bulb underneath and press the sod back above it4 ,plant them informally1 singly1 in groups4 ,scatter them freely about with the hand and bury them where they fall4 ,there is one precaution1 however1 to be observed in this system of planting--the lawn-mower must be withheld in spring until the crocuses have matured their leaves or there will be no flowers the following spring4 ,all spring bulbs profit by a liberal application of old1 well-rotted manure but this should be either spaded deep in the beds below where the bulbs will set or used as a top dressing after the soil removed before planting has been replaced and not allowed to come in contact with the bulbs4 ,manure is not only harmful in itself but it is also the home of the little white wire worms so injurious to all bulbs and especially to lilies1 and almost always when bulbs are found to be not doing well the trouble will prove to be either worms or poor drainage4 ,a part of the winter covering of all bulb beds should be lifted as soon as growth starts in the spring as a stockier1 stronger growth results but the finer portion should be left and in case of such tender bulbs as ixias that removed may be kept handy to replace in case of an unusually cold snap4 ,many of the miscellaneous bulbs offered by the florists are desirable when grown in well established groups1 but lack effect planted singly or in too small groups4 ,one of the loveliest of summer-blooming bulbs is found in the anthericum or ,st4 ,bruno's lily4 ,these should be set in colonies in the hardy border where they may remain undisturbed for years4 ,plant about three inches deep and four inches apart4 ,alliums1 chinodoxia1 and bulbs of this class need grouping to be at their best1 otherwise they are apt to appear rather straggly4 ,i like to see bulbs colonized among the shrubbery and the edge of evergreens where they appear at their best in the early days of spring and do not seriously interfere with the use of the lawn-mower later on4 ,illustration3 ,an effective treatment of ramblers ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,economy ,,in ,,the ,,purchase ,,of ,,shrubbery ,may often be achieved by a wise selection of varieties4 ,any extensive planting runs up into dollars fast1 especially if the larger sized shrubs are selected4 ,fortunately successful planting depends as much upon a number of plants of one variety as upon the size and distinction of the sorts4 ,a dozen plants of one variety of spira1 for instance1 is far more effective than one plant each of twelve varieties--try it and see if ,i am not right4 ,if1 therefore1 one has several strips of lawn to embellish with shrubbery and wishes to economize the expenditure as far as possible it will be found a most excellent plan to make a mixed planting on the most urgent section1 selecting those shrubs which by their manner of root formation offer possibilities of rapid increase and use the product for subsequent planting2 taking all of the sort of plant so as to leave as few varieties in the old bed as possible and in this way simplifying the ultimate planting of the entire grounds4 ,when these new offspring have reached a presentable size they may be retained and the other sorts which can now be spared may be removed to a new location1 planting out the youngsters in their vacated positions4 ,there are three classes of plants which lend themselves very readily to propagation through root division1 layering and root offshoots4 ,the first is found in those plants which make an exuberant root system of many fine feeding roots and many stems4 ,a good example of this class is found in the ,hydrangea arborescens which may be lifted1 pulled apart and the several plants reset without in any way disturbing its growth intention4 ,in this respect it differs materially from ,h4 paniculata which1 while making a generous root system1 has but the one main stem and so is incapable of division but is easily propagated by cuttings thrust into the ground in the shade of the plant early in ,june4 ,h4 arborescens is similar in habit to many perennials which are increased by root division1 as for instance the ,shasta daisy1 ,english daisy1 ,english violets1 polyanthus and others4 ,often a plant of ,h4 arborescens purchased from the florist will admit of the removal of two or three smaller parts without seriously injuring the appearance of the original plant and if these are set out and well cared for they will quickly develop into blossoming plants for this form is an early and reliable bloomer4 ,spira ,anthony ,waterer is another shrub which may be increased by pulling apart the roots2 indeed this plant is benefited by occasional treatment of this sort1 doing much better and flowering more freely4 ,planted in front of taller shrubs it is a very desirable and reliable plant and if the faded flowers are removed after the spring florescence it will continue to produce flowers throughout the summer4 ,one of the most easily propagated shrubs is found in the symphoricarpus or snow-berry2 indeed1 in the case of this pretty shrub the difficulty is not to increase one's stock as the new growth is usually prostrate the first year1 lying supinely on the ground and if left undisturbed will throw out roots at the joints and rapidly produce attractive little plants as robust as the parent stock4 ,lifting the branches occasionally will prevent rooting but usually one likes to have the new plants form4 ,i do4 ,after becoming well rooted the branch should be severed between the plant and the parent4 ,as the root growth is dense1 consisting of a mass of fibrous roots1 the young plants can be lifted at almost any time and reset without much check to growth4 ,the pale1 pinky-white flowers come in mid-summer1 followed by the white berries which remain on the bushes well into the winter and are very attractive4 ,somewhat similar in its way of increase is the ,deutzia-,pride of ,rochester4 ,that magnificent shrub which challenges our admiration when covered with its drooping1 bell-shaped white flowers late in ,june and which1 under favorable conditions1 assumes the proportions of a small tree4 ,like the symphoricarpus the lateral branches are more or less inclined to a recumbent or prostrate habit or because of their flexibility are easily pegged down and root easily at the joint but do not make as vigorous root growth and the joint should have a little earth drawn over it and be kept moist by placing a stone on top4 ,this shrub is so altogether desirable that several branches may well be devoted to the increase of stock1 one or more plants being produced from each branch4 ,of those shrubs which throw up suckers from the roots the lilac will occur to most people as a well-known example1 so if in buying the newer1 double-flowered sorts one will insist on purchasing plants upon their own roots and not be satisfied with grafted plants one will soon become possessed of a quite respectable planting of lilacs of notable size and color of bloom4 ,the suckers should be removed as soon as they have had one season of growth for the protection of the parent plant which will be much depleted in bloom by their permanent presence4 ,one of the most beautiful foliage shrubs1 the fern-leaved sumac--,rhus typhina laciniata--forms root rhizomes which send up volunteer plants at each joint4 ,these should be removed and replanted4 ,this is one of the most beautiful ornamentals with which ,i am acquainted1 quite rivalling the ,japanese maples4 ,the leaves are compound or pinnate1 fifteen to eighteen inches long and of a dark1 rich green on the upper side1 glaucous beneath and with a rich red midrib--an elegant fern-like spray which is very useful in cut flower work and in autumn turns to the most vivid crimson imaginable4 ,it does best when protected from severe wind1 from which it seems to shrink1 distorting its symmetrical growth4 ,in good rich soil a half dozen offshoots may appear the second year after planting and after one has once become familiar with its beauty all will be welcome4 ,another small tree or shrub with similar characteristics is the ,aralia spinosa or ,hercules' club as it is commonly called4 ,this also has the compound leaves somewhat resembling the black walnut but of gigantic proportions1 two to three feet in length and of equal breadth1 giving the tree a most tropical effect4 ,it is very easily transplanted and a few trees in a clump are very effective or it is fine as a specimen tree and owing to its abundance of spines can be utilized effectively as a hedge4 ,where only a single tree is wanted it is easily kept in check by cutting out the rhizomes with a spade close to the parent plant4 ,the euonymus1 or burning bush as the ,indians always called it1 propagates itself by means of its coral berries which appear in quantities in late summer or early fall4 ,one finds the volunteer plants appearing every spring in places where one least expects them and one can lift and transplant them wherever desired4 ,another most attractive shrub which may be easily raised from seed sown in spring is the ,buddleya--a plant with long racemes--in the newer form of ,b4 veitchiaa1 over twenty inches long1 of violet mauve flowers of a delightful violet fragrance4 ,spring-sown seed will often produce blossoming plants the first season which in the second will attain a height of from three to five feet and be a perfect bouquet of bloom throughout the summer4 ,the branches are somewhat pendulous and in the young state are better for a little support4 ,they afford delightful material for cut-flower work and the odor has that fugitive elusive quality of the violet1 seeming to come from different directions and to elude one's search4 ,it will be found an excellent plant to combine with ,spira ,van ,hutti as it comes into bloom after that splendid plant has rested on its laurels for the summer and keeps the hedgerow alive with bloom and fragrance4 ,,chapter ,,xxii ,a ,,continuous ,,succession ,,of ,,bloom ,,in ,,the ,,shrubbery ,,how ,,to ,,secure ,,it ,the planting of shrubbery about the home is so important that it may well take precedence of the flower garden proper or even the grading of the lawn itself4 ,indeed1 if one owns the site of a home and the building is yet in the future1 no better expenditure of one's spare time and dollars can be inaugurated than such initial planting as shall insure the presence of blooming shrubs about the home at the time of its completion so that all may be beautiful and perfect together1 rather than that two or three years must elapse before one can begin to enjoy the results4 ,hardy shrubs vary very greatly in the precociousness of their bloom1 certain forms giving quite noticeable results the second season1 while others need two or three years' growth even to indicate what their ultimate beauty will be4 ,the location1 too1 will have much to do with results4 ,for a low planting about the foundation of the house1 in front of porches or to top low terraces many plants may be employed which would be unsatisfactory in places at a distance where a general effect is desired more than an intimate relation4 ,for masking a building1 hiding an undesirable view and the like1 tall-growing shrubs and flowering trees are usually preferred and these being of more or less slow growth require time to develop4 ,in all shrubbery planting it will be found that a number of plants of one sort is far more effective than one or two plants each of many distinct kinds4 ,the mistake is often made of planting only shrubs which bloom together1 producing a medley of more or less inharmonious colors and form for a few weeks in spring leaving the shrubbery bare and uninteresting for the remainder of the year4 ,this is a mistake ,i have often made in my own garden1 but one which ,i usually rectify by planting in other shrubs which will come forward when the first have ceased to bloom4 ,for a number of years a very beautiful hedge of ,hydrangea paniculata grandiflora has separated the lawn from the flower garden2 only one objection could be urged against it--its flowerless condition throughout most of the summer4 ,to overcome this objection1 scarlet salvias were alternated between the plants and an edging of scarlet and white phlox made a mass of color from mid-,june until well into ,october4 ,this1 of course1 was not legitimate shrubbery planting1 so recourse was made to alternating ,hydrangea arborescens with the paniculata4 ,these coming into bloom late in ,june gave a very satisfactory arrangement1 but this year ,deutzia-,pride of ,rochester1 which also blooms in ,june1 was introduced and ,i am anticipating much pleasure from the addition4 ,a hedge of ,spira ,van ,hutti extending from the house to the road is very beautiful in early ,may1 but inconspicuous and uninteresting the remainder of the summer4 ,if it had been in a situation demanding a heavier planting ,i should have alternated the plants1 setting them behind the spiras1 with forsythias--whose golden yellow blooms make bright the garden in earliest spring--and between the forsythias introduced the deutzias4 ,there are few more satisfactory and graceful plants for use in front of a porch than this ,spira ,van ,hutti2 its gracefully curved branches1 though growing to a good length1 curve away gracefully from the building1 bending with their weight of snowy bloom almost to the ground and the growth is very strong and rapid1 but never coarse4 ,it is the very best early blooming shrub to date4 ,very lovely effects may be secured by alternating the spira with the ,weigela ,eve ,rathke1 and keeping this down to a somewhat prostrate habit2 this will give a perfect sheet of bloom from early ,may until the last of ,june and a less-pronounced show of flowers throughout the remainder of summer from the weigela4 ,there is a strong tendency when purchasing shrubbery to select a little of everything--one plant of each1 perhaps4 ,i do this myself--not without excuse perhaps on my part1 for we people who write for the benefit of others have to get our knowledge by1 often costly1 experience1 and not by the mere reading of nursery catalogues4 ,it is sometimes a most excellent thing to gratify this inclination providing one has a piece of land which can be devoted to experimental purposes and where one can shift things about until one has gained just the right combination and exposure for each plant4 ,a strip of ground twelve or fifteen feet wide and as long as available will give room for a very successful planting of small trees and shrubs and hardy perennials may be introduced to fill in until the shrubs have reached an effective size4 ,ulmarias1 hardy phlox1 oriental poppies1 rudbeckias and the like will be found very useful and tall clumps of lilies should always be interspersed in all permanent plantings4 ,it will often be found that some shrub which one has admired at close range is entirely ineffective in the shrubbery border2 take1 for instance1 the ,tartarian honeysuckle--a pretty enough thing close at hand but ineffectual and insignificant at any distance4 ,for a long shrubbery border of twelve or fifteen feet wide no better selection of shrubs can be made than these seven perfectly reliable and hardy shrubs--,forsythia1 ,april2 ,spira ,van ,hutti1 ,may2 ,deutzia ,pride of ,rochester1 ,june2 ,hydrangea arborescens1 ,july1 ,august2 ,hydrangea paniculata1 ,september2 ,althea1 ,october and ,november4 ,these are--with perhaps the exception of the althea1 which is sometimes uncertain--absolutely hardy and reliable plants which increase in size and beauty from year to year and insure a constant succession of bloom throughout the summer and fall so that by their use the shrubbery border need never be without flowers4 ,in planting a border of these mixed shrubs attention to arrangement will have much to do with success4 ,of course it will occur to the most inexperienced that the taller shrubs should be in the rear1 but it is not necessary or desirable that they should be planted in a rigid1 unbroken line4 ,better that the line be somewhat waved1 dipping forward occasionally a step or two4 ,then it will1 of course1 occur that the lowest forms will be in front1 but this line1 too1 maybe broken occasionally with advantage1 allowing the second row to step forward enough to prevent too much formality of outline4 ,where immediate effect is desired1 and this is invariably the case1 either large specimen shrubs should be used or1 if the smaller sorts seem more available1 then these should be set as close again as would be done in the planting of large specimens and after they have made two or three years' growth and have begun to crowd1 every other plant may be lifted and used to start a new shrubbery elsewhere4 ,this was what was done with my hydrangea hedge1 started as a border between the front lawn and a pear orchard4 ,the plants were first set three feet apart in a single row4 ,when they had filled up the intervening space they were lifted and used for a hedge in the rear of the lawn1 this time being set six feet apart1 a distance which they soon closed1 and for weeks in the fall were a wonderful mass of bloom4 ,a hedge of ,spira ,van ,hutti replaced the hydrangeas in the front and these will probably remain undisturbed for a number of years as1 owing to the proximity of a magnificent maple tree1 they do not make the strong growth they do in more favorable situations4 ,although ,i have suggested the forsythia1 spira1 deutzia1 hydrangeas and althea1 etc41 as the seven very best shrubs for general planting there are very many more worthy of adoption4 ,among these the various weigelas1 especially the red varieties1 the syringas and the lilacs should not be overlooked4 ,of the latter1 far too little is known1 most people being content with a bush or two of the old-fashioned purple and white of their grandmothers' garden1 and perhaps1 as a truth1 these old sorts appeal to our hearts more strongly than the newer1 more showy varieties and it is in no spirit of disparagement that ,i urge the adoption of some of the newer sorts--not to displace1 but to supplement and extend the lilac season over a period unknown to the old-time garden4 ,syringa vulgaris1 alba and purpurea are usually through blooming by the twentieth of ,may1 or thereabouts1 but ,emodi1 with its rosy-white flowers1 is ushered in with the early days of ,june and ,josikaea shows its first purple blooms late in the same month about the time that the creamy-white panticles of ,japonica appear4 ,the new double-flowered1 named sorts come into bloom about the time of the common sorts and are well worth the extra cost they involve4 ,mme4 ,cassimire ,perier and ,pres4 ,grevy are two of the finest sorts and should be in every collection4 ,in buying lilacs it will pay well to purchase those on their own roots4 ,most of the named lilacs are grafted on common stock and the suckers are annoying and worthless and if allowed to grow will seriously interfere with the blooming of the graft4 ,such shoots as come from true roots can be detached and used to increase the supply of plants and are1 therefore1 most valuable additions4 ,one of the most beautiful small trees for planting where a light and feathery effect is sought or against a background of evergreens is found in the tamarix4 ,i know of nothing so airy and graceful as these at all times and especially when in bloom4 ,the flowers1 which are very tiny1 quite cover the branches at the time of blooming in ,may1 in mid-summer and in fall according to their season and there is a marked difference in the foliage which in certain species shows a decided blue tinge which is very beautiful4 ,unfortunately they are not always entirely hardy at the north and require a somewhat protected position4 ,they are very useful at the seashore1 being one of the few things which can stand the salt air4 ,as they make a rapid growth one can afford to experiment with them until just the right environment is found for they are well worth trying for and planted in groups of the different sorts will give a succession of bloom all summer4 ,they are very useful for cut-flower work1 making exquisite bouquets when placed in dull green majolica or similar holders4 ,very careful preparation of the ground for shrubbery is essential as once planted they usually remain undisturbed for years2 for this reason the earth should be dug very deep1 underdrained1 if necessary1 and thoroughly fertilized4 ,after planting the ground should be kept cultivated by hoeing or by the use of the scuffle-hoe--anything which will maintain a dust-mulch1 prevent the earth drying out and caking and retain the moisture4 ,the success of the planting depends upon this one feature more than upon any other one thing4 ,a plant insufficiently supplied with moisture during the growing season is quite certain to succumb to the rigors of the succeeding winter--not1 indeed1 on account of the cold itself1 but the condition in which it entered the winter4 ,the best season for the planting of all hardy shrubs is early spring1 before growth starts1 the next best1 late fall after the foliage has dropped4 ,altheas and white birch trees1 however1 do better with spring planting4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii ,,gardening ,,for ,,shut-,,ins ,there are possibilities in the indoor culture of flowers1 though it may seem to the casual observer1 that only open air culture would justify one in undertaking the growing of a flower garden on any extended scale2 but open air gardening1 while it certainly makes for unlimited area of flower beds and a great variety of sorts has still its drawbacks of inclement weather1 insufficient or too much moisture1 much humbling of one's physical self on bended knees and a summer-long fight with the myriad insect pests1 from the tiny aphis that colonizes itself on the tip of every green shoot in early spring1 to the predatory mole that furrows up paths and beds1 making efficient drains to deflect all water intended for the refreshment of the plants4 ,such indoor plants as one may elect to grow are assured an adequate and continuous supply of moisture1 a soft and friable soil1 a reasonable freedom from insect pests and a certain amount of protection from burning sun and drying winds4 ,moreover they are not restricted in their season of bloom to a few months of the year2 the indoor garden may be in bloom the year around--a bewitching succession of most of the seasons repertoire of bloom4 ,the indoor garden may have its beginning in the late days of ,september1 when the hardy spring blooming bulbs come into the market4 ,nearly all of this class of plants force readily and pots and window boxes may be filled with soil1 planted to tulips1 hyacinths1 narcissi1 valley lilies1 and the like and set aside in a cool dark cellar for midwinter blooming1 requiring no further care for weeks to come4 ,in the meantime their places need not be kept empty waiting their time of bloom but boxes and pots of bright geraniums1 cinnerarias1 primroses1 cyclamen and the like will keep bright every nook and corner one can spare4 ,nothing is more dainty and delightful than a window full of primroses1 and no plant will give a more generous and constant succession of bloom from fall until spring4 ,as far as practicable1 the growing of plants in window-boxes instead of pots will be found more satisfactory4 ,inside boxes which are narrow enough to rest on the window-sill are preferable and the plants may be planted directly in the boxes or1 if preferred1 in pots and the pots plunged into the boxes with moss packed between the pots to retain the moisture4 ,this gives a better moisture condition than when the pots are stood on a shelf1 exposed on all sides to the drying air of the living-room4 ,it has the added advantage of allowing the pots to be lifted from the box for spraying the foliage1 a great help to successful growth1 and to apply such insecticides as may occasionally be needed4 ,plants grown in the dry air of the living-room are apt to be affected by red spider2 this is especially noticeable with such plants as cinnerarias1 calceolarias and a few others4 ,those who are so fortunate as to possess that modern essential of a well equipped house--a sun room--will find limitless opportunities for floriculture1 boxes beneath the windows1 trellises against the walls and hanging baskets1 all affording opportunity for much delightful work with flowers4 ,one of the most fascinating features of indoor gardening is found in the growing of greenhouse and other flowers from seed1 and this is a feature especially suited to the invalid or shut in4 ,the little flats in which seed is started are so light and easily handled and the plants grown from seed so sure to do well that one may depend almost entirely on plants from this source4 ,almost any light1 shallow box may be used1 as flat1 half size cigar boxes1 codfish boxes1 or boxes specially constructed to fit the window-sills and divided by strips of wood into several compartments may be used4 ,all require the same treatment--a few holes to insure drainage1 a fine mellow soil of fibrous loam1 leaf mold and a little sharp sand1 filled to within a half inch of the top of the box and well shaken down1 and the best seed procurable4 ,all begonias1 rex1 fibrous and tuberous may be readily grown from seed which should be lightly scattered over the surface of the soil1 and pressed down with a bit of smooth board1 then set in a pan of water till the surface looks dark1 surplus water drained away1 covered with white paper1 glass and set in a warm place till the tiny plants break through the soil1 when they should be given air and light gradually and encouraged to make a healthy1 sturdy growth from the start4 ,a low1 broad table with a large1 shallow drawer and a shelf half way down one side will be found the most convenient place to work and this can be moved as the work progresses from place to place so as to make as little walking and lifting as possible4 ,another work-table that ,i have found most convenient consists of a broad shelf--hinged to a strip of wood nailed to the window-casing1 as wide as the window-casing and deep enough to reach the floor when dropped down out of use4 ,this is held in place by two strips of metal attached to the window-casing that hook over screw-heads in the side of the shelf1 but drop down against the wall when not in use4 ,such a shelf affords an excellent working surface for starting seeds in flats1 bulbs and cuttings in pots and is indispensable for drawing plants away from a window on stormy nights4 ,if finished to match the woodwork of the room it will be an attractive feature whether in use or dropped down out of the way and may be used for papers and magazines when not required for plants4 ,for the latter purpose a neat finish is a border to match the standing woodwork and a center of green baize of felt4 ,there are a number of attractive vines and trailing plants--the ,asparagus ,sprengeri1 ,manettia ,vine1 ,thumbergia--that may be grown successfully from seed and add greatly to the interest of the indoor garden4 ,at this time of the year it will be worth while to start seeds of certain garden annuals for use in outside window-boxes4 ,nasturtiums1 verbenas1 candytuft1 phlox ,drummondii1 petunias1 coleus1 ageratums1 daisies1 lobelias1 all make bright and charming window gardens and when the sliding screens are used that may be pushed up out of the way1 the boxes may be planted and cared for from the inside with little fatigue4 ,hanging baskets add much to the charm of sun room and porch1 but are difficult to care for as usually arranged1 but if instead of hanging from a short chain from a hook in the ceiling or cornice of porch or sun room1 the basket is attached to a stout cord passed over a pulley and the free end provided with a couple of rings to hook over hooks in the side wall or pillars to hold it at the desired height it can be lowered on to a table for attention with little trouble4 ,the moss-lined wire baskets are the best for this purpose2 they retain moisture and are free from danger of breakage4 ,if a pail of water is placed on the table beneath them and the basket lowered into this and allowed to remain until the soil is thoroughly soaked1 then raised sufficiently by one of the rings to drain away all surplus water1 the plants will be in the best possible condition to grow and bloom4 ,one of the most fascinating plants for growing indoors is the little ,japanese rosebushes1 which may be grown from seeds into blooming plants in from six to eight weeks4 ,they make the daintiest1 most charming little plants imaginable4 ,shapely1 many branched and loaded with bloom they are the very daintiest ,favors imaginable for luncheons and other social affairs and are charming gifts at all times4 ,the blossoms are about the size of a ten cent piece1 and come in white1 pink and red4 ,the seeds may be sown in the pots--three inch ones1 in which they are to bloom or may be sown in flats and pricked out into pots when large enough4 ,i have found the seed to germinate very freely and the plants to grow on finely from the start4 ,when planted in pots these should be plunged in a shallow box of wet sand or moss in a sunny window4 ,this is the way to handle all young greenhouse plants1 especially cyclamen1 cinnerarias1 gloxinias1 carnations1 ,lady ,washington geraniums and the like4 ,to keep them growing vigorously they should not be allowed to dry out1 nor to become soggy with too much water4 ,for starting summer-blooming bulbs the use of moss in shallow boxes or baskets will be found more convenient than the heavier soil4 ,the sphagnum moss used by florists for shipping plants is the sort needed and may be used again and again if necessary1 the only merit it has being its retention of moisture1 exclusion of air and lightness for handling4 ,if one wishes to grow from seed for outdoor planting the hardier annuals and perennials1 then somewhat larger and deeper flats should be used1 but none over four inches in depth should be undertaken4 ,in these such readily salable plants as asters1 salvias1 balsams1 coba scandens1 ,shasta daisies1 pansies1 and the like will prove a veritable little pin-money mine and equally profitable will be found peppers1 cauliflowers1 bush musk-melons and other of the choicer vegetables1 all requiring1 practically1 the same treatment4 ,the shut-in who wishes to specialize in the unusual might make an attempt to imitate the dwarf trees of ,china and ,japan4 ,this is not so impossible or difficult as it appears as the appearance of great age is more often the result of skill than of many years4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv ,,the ,,possibilities ,,of ,a ,,city ,,flat ,the possibilities of the city flat will depend upon just how much window space the flat affords and how much sunlight the windows receive1 for upon the amount of light will depend not so much the quantities of flowers which may be grown1 as their character4 ,it may be possible that1 in a restricted area1 but one window can be devoted to the growing of plants during the winter season and where that is the case one will wish to realize as much pleasure as possible from that one window4 ,if it is a sunny window then it will be an easy matter to fill it full of bright flowers4 ,now no flower so well withstands the heat and dust of our living-rooms as the geraniums1 but it is by no means necessary that they should be of the more common zonal type4 ,the ,lady ,washington geraniums--pelargoniums--are far more beautiful and even more prolific in their bloom4 ,they may be purchased all ready to bloom of the florist or easily raised1 from spring sown seed1 to blooming size by fall4 ,heliotropes1 the sweetest of all flowers1 will bloom freely in any sunny window if the precaution is taken to spray or wet the foliage thoroughly every day2 without this refreshing bath the foliage will curl up and die and the buds blast4 ,the carnation is an excellent plant for the sunny window but must be sprayed frequently to keep in check the red spider1 and all the spring blooming bulbs can be depended upon for the winter window garden and have this advantage that they can be potted in the fall1 tucked away in a dark closet somewhere and brought out when ready to begin blooming1 and again relegated to any out of the way place as soon as their season of bloom is passed4 ,the most convenient way of growing house plants where there are only common windows to accommodate them is in boxes made to fit the window-sills4 ,the ready-to-use metal boxes are very handy and satisfactory1 but not as attractive as simple boxes made of wood to match the standing woodwork of the room2 these should have a metal lining to protect the woodwork and if the expense of boxes of hardwood in a rented flat seems undesirable1 very simple boxes of cheap wood may be made to imitate the hardwood finish by giving a covering of the paper or wood pulp that comes in all the natural hardwood finishes4 ,this is simply pasted on the boxes and when dry should be given a coat of sizing-glue dissolved in hot water to a thin paste1 and when this is dry a coat of varnish or jap-a-lac4 ,this will be so successful that few casual observers will detect the substitution4 ,a very pretty plant box can be evolved from a single cheese box1 cut down a couple of inches covered with the paper and supplied with legs or mounted on a small lamp stand1 or white enamel will be charming1 especially when the box is filled with blooming tulips or narcissi1 or given over to ferns1 asparagus vines and the like4 ,where one has a window opening on to an air shaft or a court that gives no view but infringes one's privacy a delightful screen which will not deprive one of too much light and air1 but effectually screen the window is made from a box the length of the window-sill1 fitted with double casters to allow it to be moved from place to place4 ,a long rod or wire1 long enough to extend upright as high as the screen is desired1 cross over and return on the other side1 should be fitted into the end boards close to the back by boring holes with a drill the size of the rod for nearly the depth of the wood and the ends of the wires firmly sunk in them4 ,the frame is then covered with wire netting or twine and the box planted to some light1 graceful vine like the asparagus plumosus nanna1 the manettia vine1 clarodendron1 but the plumosus nanna is an excellent choice4 ,such a screen is very convenient and artistic between two rooms where it is desired to leave a door open for air1 but desirable to screen the contents of one of them4 ,it is the summer flat1 however1 that offers the greater possibilities of floriculture for in this season the boxes may be placed outside of the windows if properly secured1 and a much greater variety of plants grown1 for there is no exposure for which there are not many delightful things available4 ,a north window1 that to many would seem especially undesirable for plants1 will often be found to develop the most interesting boxes4 ,all the hardier varieties of cultivated ferns may be usual here1 all the blooming and fibrous rooted begonias1 all the asparagus fern1 especially ,a4 sprengeri1 the various impatiens1 especially ,i4 sultani1 the trailing fuchsias1 abutilons1 variegated wandering ,jew1 aspidistras1 farfugiums4 ,palm grass1 ,pannicum ,excurrens--a palm-like grass which one has to send to southern florists for but which grows rankly at the north1 either in the house or in the open ground--is good4 ,i bedded one out in spring1 intending to lift in the fall for interior decoration and found it to have made so sturdy a root growth1 and so immense a top that it defied a spade to move it and had to be abandoned to the frost4 ,within doors its long1 curved leaves are most attractive and interesting4 ,it is a magnificent plant for the rear wall of a sun room or conservatory4 ,if one occupies a flat with a rear outside staircase1 then one may utilize the top of the railing to place boxes of trailing nasturtiums and bright flowers--a planting of nasturtiums in the rear1 a middle planting of geraniums1 justitias1 petunias1 verbenas1 phlox drummondii1 etc41 and a fringe of sweet alyssum or other delicate trailer along the front will give a succession of bloom all the summer long4 ,along the outer edge of the steps one may arrange small but deep boxes of earth and in each plant blooming vines such as the ,japanese morning glory1 the coba scandens1 flowering beans1 or that gay little new vine--the cardinal climber4 ,these may be trained to run on wire or cord so as to afford privacy for the stairway1 or if this is not desired1 trailing vines and erect plants may be used instead1 the trailers masking the unlovely architecture of the stairs4 ,possibly one may be in possession of one of those flats whose side windows look out upon the roof of a lower building--a tin roof expansion of ugliness which is a hindrance to spiritual calm and mental cheerfulness4 ,if this is the case1 why not utilize it to create a roof garden8 ,if the area is small one can utilize all of it1 if too large then pre-empt the portion nearest one and draw a trellis of wire across the boundary line on which one may grow in long1 narrow boxes of soil morning glories galore4 ,it is not necessary that these boxes be of anything but the roughest construction2 home-made boxes1 evolved from old packing cases1 are as good as anything as they will be masked by the plants and vines2 these should extend around three or even all four sides of the roof1 those in the rear and1 if it is desired to secure privacy1 those on the sides1 being planted with vines or tall-growing plants like ricinus1 cannas1 cleomes1 cosmos and the like4 ,it will not be desirable to leave too much open space in a garden of this sort1 unless it will be possible to cover the roof with sand or sawdust that can be wet down with the hose to create a moist atmosphere2 but where this can be done a very successful roof garden can be created with the principal expenditure that for earth and sawdust4 ,most flowers of the summer garden can be grown in such a position and one could arrange a very satisfactory little lily pool and fountain by means of a big zinc tub1 a length of hose1 two or three water lilies and some gold fish4 ,a few inches of earth in the tub will supply a footing for the lilies and a mask of plants around the base will hide the crudeness of the pool4 ,when one has undertaken a garden like this it will be found surprising how many things one will pick up in one's little excursions out of town to add to it2 all one's friends will take an interest and pleasure in donating seeds and plants and if the roof affords room for a hammock and a few chairs1 the question of where to go for a summer vacation will not take on such poignant interest1 nor the inability to afford one be so great a tragedy4 ,such an oasis in the heart of a city will be a delight to a child and solve the problem of keeping it off the street and from undesirable companions4 ,i should like to think that a good many such little oases will develop and that ,i might know of them4 ,it might be that two or more people have homes overlooking a roof who would join together in the making of a garden4 ,in that way a larger area could be undertaken and the expense would not be seriously felt4 ,if the roof is one exposed to much sunshine1 then one should select plants which revel in sunshine like the annual poppy1 the verbena1 salvia1 sweet alyssum1 candytuft1 ageratum1 dahlia1 canna1 ,california poppy1 asters2 all these are hardy1 easily grown plants1 which will give an abundance of bloom all summer4 ,of course geraniums' and coleus can also be depended upon to do their prettiest1 but one and all should have a daily or semi-daily showering with a hose to remove the grime and dust of the day and freshen the foliage as well as to provide the necessary water to drink4 ,probably the entire success of the roof garden will depend upon just this one feature of an adequate water supply at the roots and a thorough cleansing of the foliage each day4 ,given this there is no reason why a garden of this sort should not be a success4 ,,the ,,end ,,index ,aconite1 ,winter1 #bhe ,ageratums1 #cac ,altheas1 #cjb-cjd ,anise1 #bjf ,anterrhinums1 tall1 #bfh ,aralia ,spinosa or ,hercules ,club1 #bid ,arctotis ,grandis1 #bfd-bfg ,argemone1 #bfe ,arsenate of ,lead1 #baa ,arsenate of ,zinc1 #baa ,artichokes1 #ahf-ahg2 ,jerusalem1 #ahh-ahi ,asparagus1 starting of bed of1 #hj2 fertilizing1 #hj-ha-hb2 setting of roots1 #ha2 when to set1 #ha2 to avoid self-sowing of1 #hb2 variety to plant1 #hc2 young plants1 #hd2 when to cut1 #hd2 to keep down weeds1 #hd2 spraying1 #bad2 to can1 #bdd-bde ,asparagus ,sprengeri1 #cac ,aspidistras1 #cbb ,aster1 #bfi-bgj ,balm1 #bje ,basil1 #bjf ,beans1 #abg-abh2 how to plant1 #abd2 varieties1 #abe2 ,lima beans1 #abf1 #abh2 when to plant1 #abb2 how to sow1 #ci2 varieties1 #abc1 #abi2 to spray1 #bad-bae2 to can1 #bde-bdf ,beans ,anthracnose1 #bad ,bean ,beetle1 #bae ,bean ,weevil1 #bae ,beets1 #hf-hh-hi-ij2 how to sow1 #ci2 soil for1 #hg2 depth to plant1 #hg2 to grow1 #hi2 beet leaf spot1 #bae2 when to dry1 #bb2 to store1 #bbh2 to can1 #bde ,beet ,leaf ,spot1 #bae ,beetle1 ,colorado1 #bah ,beetle1 ,flea1 #bae-bah ,bene1 #bjf ,blight1 #bag2 celery blight1 #baf ,borage1 #bjf ,bordeaux1 ,arsenate of ,lead1 #bac ,bordeaux ,mixture1 #bab-bad ,broccoli1 #ahi ,brussels ,sprouts1 #aij ,buddleya--a plant1 #bie ,bug ,death1 #baa ,bulbs1 ,fall1 planting1 #bhb-bhc-bhd-bhe-bhf-bhg-bhh2 soil for1 #bhd-bhe ,burning ,bush1 or ,euonymus1 #bie ,cabbage1 #abi2 transplanting1 #acj2 cultivating1 #aca2 enemies of1 #aca1 #acb-acc2 varieties1 #acd2 to protect from maggots1 #afi-agj2 to spray1 #bae2 to store1 #bbi ,cabbage1 ,chinese1 #ib-ic ,cabbage root maggot1 #baf ,cabbage worm1 #baf ,candidum1 #bgi-bhj ,candytuft1 #bfh-bga1 #cac1 #cbf ,canning1 #bcb-bcc-bcd2 types of outfits for1 #bce-bcf2 ,cold ,pack1 #bcg1 #bch1 #bci1 #bdj1 #bda1 #bdb1 #bdc ,cannas1 #cbd-cbf ,caraway seeds1 #bjb1 #bjc-bjg ,carnations1 #cae-cai ,cardinal ,climber1 #cbc ,catnip1 #bje ,cauliflower1 #acd-ace-acg2 varieties1 #acf2 enemies of1 #acg2 to protect from maggots1 #afi-agj2 to spray1 #bae2 to can1 #bdf2 to store1 #bbi-bcj ,celery1 to store1 #bcj2 blight1 #baf ,celeriac1 #aia-aib ,chamomile1 #bjg ,cherville1 #aib ,chicory1 #aij-aia ,cinnerarias1 #cji-cae-cah ,citron1 #agc ,clarodendrum1 #cba ,cleomes1 #cbd ,cleom ,pungens1 #bfh ,collards1 #aib ,columbine1 #bge ,coriander1 #bjb-bjc-bjg ,corn1 #ach1 #add2 soil required1 #aci2 methods of planting1 #aci-adj2 varieties1 #ada2 fertilizing of1 #ada-adb2 transplanting of1 #adc2 to can1 #bdf-bdg-bdh2 to dry1 #bed-bee ,corn salad1 #aic 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sowing1 #bb2 separating1 #bb2 arrangement1 #bb-bc-be2 labelling1 #bc2 germination1 #bc2 watering1 #bd2 care of young seedlings1 #bf ,seeds--,in ,flats3 ,sowing1 #cd2 covering1 #cd2 labelling1 #ce2 care after planting1 #ce2 planting in open ground1 #cf2 condition of ground1 #cf2 when to plant1 #cg2 seed drilling1 #cg2 rapid seed dropping1 #ch2 treatment of different sizes1 #ci2 buying1 #dj2 testing1 #da2 table for quantity of1 #bjj-bja2 saving1 #beh-bei ,shrubbery1 #bib-bic-bid-bie-bif-cjj-cjd-cje-cjf-cjg 2 selection of1 #bhi-bij-bia-cja-cjb-cjc2 succession of bloom for1 #big-bih-bii-cjj ,slug ,shot1 #bab ,soil1 #b-c2 treatment after sowing1 #ch2 fertilizing1 #di-ff-fg-fh-ge-gh-hj2 fertility1 #fe2 humus or leaf mold1 #fe-ff-gf2 to restore humus to1 #ff-fg1 #fh2 to test for sourness1 #gj-ga2 to sweeten1 #ga2 chemical elements necessary for growth in1 #gb-gc-gd2 analysis of1 #gc ,soup1 #bea-beb2 vegetable1 #beb-bec ,spinach1 #abj-aba ,spira ,anthony ,waterer1 #bia2 ,van ,hutti1 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