,illu/ration3 ,,j]usalem4 ,f ! traditional spot on ! ,m\nt ( ,olives :]e ,*ri/ wept ov] ! city4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,holy ,,l& ,,pa9t$ ,,by ,,john ,,fulleylove1 ,r4,i4 ,,describ$ ,,by ,,john ,,kelman1 ,d4,d4 ,a,c ,,black ,l,,td #d4e4f ,,soho ,,squ>e1 ,,london1 ,w4#a4 ,pr9t$ 9 ,great ,brita9 by ,r4 ,r4 ,,cl>k1 ,,limit$1 ,ed9burgh4 ,fir/ ,edition1 ) #ic illu/rations1 publi%$ 9 ,octob] #aijb ,repr9t$ 9 #aijd & #aiab ,second ,edition1 revis$1 ) #cb illu/rations1 publi%$ 9 #aibc ,,ag5ts ,,am]ica ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company #fd #ff ,,fif? ,,av5ue1 ,,new ,,york ,,au/ralasia ,,! ,,ox=d ,,univ]sity ,,press #bje ,,fl9d]s ,,lane1 ,,melb\rne ,,canada ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company ,,( ,,canada1 ,,ltd4 ,,/4 ,,m>t9',s ,,h\se1 #gj ,,bond ,,/41 ,,toronto ,,india ,,macmillan ,,company1 ,,ltd4 ,,macmillan ,,build+1 ,,bombay #cji ,,b[ ,,baza> ,,/reet1 ,,calcutta ,,indian ,,bank ,,build+s1 ,,madras ,preface ,! secrets ( satisfactory travel are ma9ly two--to h c]ta9 que/ions ready to ask2 & to deta* oneself f preconceptions1 s z to f9d n :at "o expects1 or desires to f9d1 b :at is !re4 ,^! rules ,i endeav\r$ to foll[ :ile 9 ! ,holy ,l&4 ,z to ?is book1 ,i h tri$ to write x 8) my eye on ! object0--to describe ?+s z !y 7 se51 & to see !m aga9 :ile describ+ !m4 ,! ext5t to :i* ?is ideal has be5 rea*$1 or miss$1 w be ! measure ( ! book's success or failure4 ,no attempt has be5 made to add any?+ orig9al to ! sci5tific k ( ,pale/9e4 ,= t task ,i am n qualifi$ ei!r by suffici5t travel or by exp]t /udy ( ! subject4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ?is is n m]ely an it9]>y1 or j\rnal ( exp]i5ces & adv5tures ( ! road4 ,i h freely introduc$ notes f my j\rnal 9 illu/ration ( *>act]i/ics ( ! c\ntry & its life1 & h claim$ ! privilege ( digress+ 9 v>i\s directions4 ,b ! ma9 object has be5 to give a record ( impressions r ?an ( incid5ts4 ,^! impressions are arrang$ 9 ?ree p>ts1 z !y be> ^u ! geography1 ! hi/ory1 & ! _s ( ,syria4 ,!y h be5 correct$ & amplifi$ by z wide read+ z ! %ort "t at my disposal all[$4 ,a few ( ! books read or consult$ are ref]r$ to 9 footnotes1 b _m o!rs h help$ me4 ,to app5d a li/ ( !m to s small a contribution to ! subject z ?is1 w\ld be b to rem9d ! read] ( ! old fable1 ,nascetur ridiculus mus4 ,i mu/1 h[ev]1 ackn[l$ge ) mu* gratitude my obligation to two volumes above all o!rs--,major 7n[ ,colonel7 ,cond]'s ,t5t ,"w 9 ,pale/9e1 & ,pr(essor ,george ,adam ,smi?'s ,hi/orical ,geography ( ! ,holy ,l&4 ,to ^! e *apt] is indebt$ m or less1 "s *apt]s v deeply4 ,among ! pleasures :i* ?is task has br\ght ) x1 none is great] ?an ! intimate acqua9tance ) ^! two works :i* x entail$4 ,) ,pr(essor ,smi? ,i h a m p]sonal bond ( obligation ?an ! invaluable help ,i h _h f 8 book4 ,la/ ye> we rode & camp$ toge!r f ,hebron to ,damascus1 back ov] ! ea/]n spurs ( ,h]mon to ! coa/1 & nor? by ,tyre & ,sidon to ,beyr\t4 ,all :o 7 9 t p>ty "k1 z no words c express1 h[ mu* insight & sugge/ion we ow$ to ! lead] :o int]pret$ ! l& = u s brilliantly & ) su* k9dness4 ,= my own "p ,i feel t at times x has be5 difficult to di/+ui% betwe5 impressions ( my own & ^? :i* h be5 unconsci\sly borr[$ f him4 ,if ,i h borr[$ freely1 ,i am sure he w all[ me to c\nt t among ! _m privileges ( our long acqua9tance1 & z a tok5 ( my admiration = 8 g5ius & gratitude = 8 fri5d%ip4 ,,john ,,kelman4 ,,ed9burgh1 #aijb4 ,,publi%]s' ,,note ,= ! purposes ( ?is reissue ! au?or has revis$ ! "w & slightly abridg$ x1 b no attempt has be5 made to describe ! *ang$ conditions consequ5t on ! ,w>4 ,septemb] #aibc4 ,cont5ts ,,"p ,i4--,,! ,,l&1 pp4 #a to #hd ,,*apt] ,,page #a4 ,,! ,,col\r ,,( ,,! ,,l& #g #b4 ,,! ,,des]t #bj #c4 ,,! ,,life ,,( ,,! ,,l& #cg #d4 ,,! ,,wat]s ,,( ,,israel #ea #e4 ,,br[n ,,villages1 ,,:ite ,,t[ns1 ,,& ,a ,,grey ,,city #fe ,,"p ,,ii4--,,! ,,invad]s1 pp4 #he to #agb #a4 ,,israelite #hh #b4 ,,gr,,co-,,roman #ih #c4 ,,*ri/ian #aae #d4 ,,moslem #acg #e4 ,,crusad] #aeg ,,"p ,,iii4--,,! ,,_s ,,( ,,syria1 pp4 #agc to #bde #a4 ,,! ,,light] ,,side ,,( ,,?+s #agg #b4 ,,! ,,%ad[ ,,( ,,dea? #aij #c4 ,,! ,,spectral #bje #d4 ,,! ,,l& ,,( ,,! ,,cross #bbf #e4 ,,resurrection #bci ,li/ ( ,illu/rations #a4 ,j]usalem1 f ! traditional spot on ! ,m\nt ( ,olives :]e ,*ri/ wept ov] ! ,city ,frontispiece ,,fac+ ,,page #b4 ,! ,m\nt ( ,temptation1 f ,j]i*o #i #c4 ,cana ( ,galilee #af #d4 ,on ! ,road f ,j]usalem to ,be?any #be #e4 ,! ,hills r\nd ,naz>e?1 f ! ,pla9 ( ,esdraelon #cb #f4 ,m\nt ,h]mon1 f ! ,slopes ( ,tabor #da #g4 ,j]usalem--,! ,pool ( ,hezekiah #dh #h4 ,! ,gold5 ,gate1 f ! ,g>d5 ( ,ge?semane #eg #i4 ,! ,lake ( ,galilee1 look+ ,nor? f ,tib]ias #fd #aj4 ,! ,f\nta9 ( ! ,virg9 at ,naz>e? #gc #aa4 ,joppa1 f ! ,sea #hj #ab4 ,! ,lake ( ,galilee1 look+ ,s\? f ,tib]ias #hi #ac4 ,site ( ! anci5t ,city ( ,sam>ia #if #ad4 ,! ,=ec\rt ( ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re #aje #ae4 ,! ,rotunda & ,*apel ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re #aab #af4 ,! ,dome ( ! ,rock 7,mosque ( ,om>71 z se5 f ! ,por* on ! ,nor? ,side ( ! ,mosque ( ,el ,aksa #aba #ag4 ,! ,dome ( ! ,rock 7,mosque ( ,om>71 f ! ,b>racks ne> ! ,site ( ! ,t[] ( ,antonia #abh #ah4 ,int]ior ( ! ,mosque ( ,el ,aksa1 f ! ,s4,e4 #acg #ai4 ,! ,temple ,area & ! ,m\nt ( ,olives1 f ,m\nt ,zion #add #bj4 ,! ,we/ ,side ( ! ,temple ,area1 f ! ,b>racks ne> ! ,site ( ! ,t[] ( ,antonia #aec #ba4 ,entrance to ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re #afj #bb4 ,int]ior ( ! ,dome ( ! ,*a91 look+ ,nor? #afi #bc4 ,int]ior ( ! ,dome ( ! ,rock 7,mosque ( ,om>71 f ! ,s4,e4 #agf #bd4 ,! ,m\nt ( ,olives1 f a ,h\se-top on ,m\nt ,zion #ahe #be4 ,! ,*ur* ( ! ,nativity at ,be?lehem1 f a ,g>d5 on ! opposite ,hill #aib #bf4 ,j]usalem--,ext]ior ( ! ,gold51 or ,beautiful1 ,gate #bja #bg4 ,! ,tomb ( ,ra*el1 on ! ,road f ,j]usalem to ,hebron #bjh #bh4 ,! ,judean ,des]t & ! ,dead ,sea1 f ! highe/ po9t ( ! ,m\nt ( ,olives #bag #bi4 ,valley ( ,h9nom1 ) ,hill ( ,(f5ce #bbd #cj4 ,! ,rock-cut ,tombs ( ! ,valley ( ,jeho%aphat #bcc #ca4 ,! ,n4,e4 ,end ( ,j]usalem & ,mizpah1 f ! ,m\nt ( ,olives #bdj #cb4 ,! ,pla9 ( ,j]i*o1 look+ t[>ds ! ,m\nta9s ( ,moab #bdd ,sket*-map on page viii ,illu/ration3 ,,sket*-,,map ,,( ,,pale/9e4 ,,"p ,i ,,! ,,l& ,a j\rney ?r\gh ! ,holy ,l& may reasonably be expect$ to be 9 "s sort a sacram5tal ev5t 9 a man's life4 ,spiritual ?+s are always ne> u1 & we feel t we h a h]itage 9 !m2 yet !y con/antly elude u1 & ne$ help f ! s5ses to make !m real & comm&+4 ,su* sacram5tal help mu/ surely be giv5 by any?+ t br+s vividly to our realisation ^? sc5es & t life 9 ! mid/ ( :i* ! ,^w 0 made fle%4 ,! m cle>ly we c ga9 ! impression ( places & ev5ts 9 ,syria1 ! m reasonable & conv9c+ w ,*ri/ian fai? become4 ,ev]y?+ :i* revives ! long pa/ has p[] to quick5 ! imag9ation1 & site-hunt]s & relic-hunt]s 9 any field h mu* to say = !mselves4 ,n[1 ap>t altoge!r f ! ,*ri/ian /ory1 ,syria has ! spell ( a v anci5t l&4 ,! m\nds t break ! level on ! pla9 ( ,esdraelon repres5t six hundr$ ye>s ( buri$ hi/ory = e ?irty feet ( _! height4 ,among ! fir/ objects po9t$ out to u 9 ,pale/9e 0 a p]=at$ /one :i* s]ves n[ z v5tilator = a ,*ri/ian meet+-h\se 9 ,lebanon1 b :i* 0 =m]ly a section ( ,z5obia's aqu$uct4 ,9 ,syria ! realisation ( ! pa/ is cont9ual1 & ! c5turies m+le 9 a solemn confusion4 ,its mod]n life seems ( little acc\nt1 & is 9 no way ! rival ( ! anci5t4 ,9 ,london1 or ev5 9 ,rome1 ! new _w jo/les ! old2 9 ,pale/9e ! old is s supreme z to seem h>dly consci\s ( ! new4 ,all ?is rea*es its ke5e/ po9t 9 connection ) m5's wor%ip2 & :at a long succession ( wor%ipp]s h left _! traces "h6 ,! primitive rock-hewn alt>1 ! ,jewi% synagogue1 ! ,greek temple1 ! ,*ri/ian *ur*1 ! ,mohamm$an mosque--all h /ood 9 _! turn on ! same site4 ,8 mu/ be a dull s\l surely :o c feel no sympa?y ) ! ,moslem1 or ev5 ) ! hea!n wor%ip4 ,^! religions too _h human he>ts beat+ 9 !m1 & wi/ful s\ls try+ by _! help to se>* et]nity4 ,to ! wise ^! dead fai?s are full ( mean+4 ,?r\gh all _! cla%+ voices !re s\nds ! cry ( man to 8 ,god--a cry m (t5 he>d & answ]$ ?an we 9 our self-complac5cy are sometimes apt to ?9k4 ,! sacram5tal quality ( ! ,holy ,l& is ( c\rse felt mo/ by ^? :o seek especially = memories & realisations ( ,jesus ,*ri/4 ,)9 ! pale ( ,*ri/ianity !re are sev]al diff]5t ways ( reg>d+ ! l& z holy1 & mo/ ( !m lead to disappo9tm5t4 ,! ,greek & ,roman ,ca?olic ,*ur*es vie ) "o ano!r 9 _! passion = sites & relics !re1 & seem to lose all s5se ( ! di/9ction betwe5 ! sublime & ! grotesque 9 _! eag]ness = id5tifications4 ,a ,prote/ant c\nt]p>t to ?is mi/ak5 zeal is t ( ! huntsm5 ( ! fields ( prophecy1 :o _c see a bat flutt]+ ab\t a ru9 or a mole turn+ up ! e>? )\t turn+ ec/atically to ,hebrew prophetic books1--z if ^! 7 n ! habits ( bats & moles all ! _w ov]4 ,ap>t f ei!r ( ^!1 !re are o!rs less or?odox b equally sup]/iti\s :o h "s vague notion ( occult & magic qualities :i* diff]5tiate ?is f all o!r regions ( ! e>?4 ,b5jam9 ,disraeli & ,pi]re ,loti are repres5tatives ( ?is po9t ( view4 ,! =m] is p]suad$ t ! l& 8mu/ be end[$ ) m>vell\s & peculi> qualities02 & ! h]o ( 8 ,tancr$ seeks & f9ds !re sup]natural communications f ! unse5 _w4 ,! latt] tells 9 8 ,jrusalem h[ he w5t to ,pale/9e ) ! hope t "s exp]i5ce might be giv5 him :i* w\ld revive 8 lo/ fai? 9 ,*ri/ianity4 ,he return$1 a disappo9t$ s5tim5tali/4 ,! sadd5+ & yet fasc9at+ n>rative rea*es its climax 9 ,ge?semane1 :]e1 beat+ 8 br[ 9 ! d>kness aga9/ an olive tree1 he wait$ 7z he himself confesses7 = he kn[s n :at4 ,8 words are3 8,non1 ri53 p]sonne ne me voit1 p]sonne ne m'c\te1 p]sonne ne me rpond40 ,! belief 9 miracle is always difficult3 n[h]e is x s difficult z on ! traditional site4 ,! e>? is j e>? !re z else:]e2 & ! sky seems almo/ f>!r above x4 ,! rock is solid rock2 ! wat]1 air1 trees1 hills are uncompromis+ t]re/rial realities4 ,x is wis] to ab&on ! attempt at =c+ ! sup]natural to reveal itself1 & to turn to ! human side ( ?+s z ! sure/ way ( ultimately arriv+ at ! div9e4 ,:5 t has be5 delib]ately done ! rew>d is inde$ magnific5t4 ,an unexpect$ & ov]:elm+ s5se ( reality comes ^u ! sacr$ n>rative4 ,^! places & ! life t inhabit$ !m are actualities1 & n m]ely items 9 an anci5t book or ! poetic backgr\nd ( a religi\s exp]i5ce4 ,m p>ticul>ly :5 y look upw>d to ! hills1 y f9d t y\r help /ill come? f !m4 ,_! great sky-l9es are un*ang$1 & ! long vi/as & cle>-cut edges :i* y see are ! same :i* fill$ ! eyes ( prophets & apo/les1 & ( ,jesus ,*ri/ ,himself4 ,x is ?is1 especially z x reg>ds ! ,savi\r ( mank9d1 t is ! mo/ preci\s ga9 ( ,syrian travel4 ,n[ & aga9 x comes on "o ) ov]p[]+ =ce4 ,sail+ up ! coa/1 ?is impression haunt$ ! long h\rs4 ,z we gaz$ on ! m\nta9s1 & ! image ( !m sank deep] & deep]1 ! ?\ght grew cle> 9 all its wond] t some:]e among ^! heights ,he _h w&]$ ) ,8 disciples1 & sat d[n by ! sides ( wells to re/4 ,9 camp at ,j]i*o we 7 confront$ by an unc\?1 blunt-topp$ m\nta9 mass1 ?ru/+ itself aggressively up on ! ,judean side1 9 itself a v rugg$ & memorable m\nta9-edge4 ,n till ! light 0 fad+1 & ! bold outl9e /ruck black] & black] aga9/ ! sky1 did ! fact sudd5ly surprise u t ?is 0 ,qu>antana1 ! ,m\nta9 ( ,temptation4 ,!n we und]/ood t wild]ness /ory 9 all its unprotect$ lonel9ess1 & we almo/ saw ! =m ( ! ,son ( ,man4 ,?us1 z day aft] day he rides ?r\gh ! c\ntry1 ! travell] f9ds new mean+ 9 ! words1 8,i h glorifi$ ,!e on ! e>?40 ,an inexpressible s5se possesses him ( ! reality ( ,jesus ,*ri/4 ,^! pa?ways 71 inde$1 once trodd5 by ,8 feet2 ?r\gh ^! valleys ,he c>ri$ ! lamp ( life2 "u ^! />s ,he pray$2 ?r\gh ?is sun%9e ,he lay 9 a rock-hewn grave4 ,to a man's dy+ day he w be ne>] ,*ri/ = ?is4 ,! *ief sorr[ ( ! ,*ri/ian life = mo/ ( u is ! difficulty ( realisation4 ,at times we h all _h to flog up our imag9ation to ! 8realis+ s5se0 ( ,*ri/4 ,aft] ?is j\rney t necessity is gone4 ,x is almo/ z if 9 long pa/ ye>s we _h se5 ,him !re1 & he>d ,him speak4 ,! div9e my/]y ( ,*ri/ is all ! m comm&+ :5 ! human fact ( ,jesus has become almo/ a memory r ?an a belief4 ,,*apt] ,i ,,! ,,col\r ,,( ,,! ,,l& ,e l& has a s*eme ( col\r ( its own1 & :ile =m & outl9e are ! fir/1 !y are n ! mo/ p]man5t nor ! deepe/ impressions :i* a region makes ^u its travell]s4 ,x is ! col\r ( ! l& :i* sl[ly & almo/ unconsci\sly s9ks 9 ^u ! behold] day by day4 ,we obs]ve ! outl9es ( a sc5e2 we rememb] its col\r+4 ,?is is especially true ( ,pale/9e4 ,no?+ ab\t x is m di/9ctive ?an its col\r-s*eme2 & no?+ is p]haps less famili> to ^? :o h n actually se5 x4 ,syria may be treat$ z if x 7 ,italy1 or ev5 ,egypt--9 h>d int5se col\r+2 or x may be treat$ z if x 7 ,engl&1 9 /rong tones b ) a c]ta9 homely s(t5+ ( edge4 ,nei!r ( ^! modes is true to ,syria4 ,its edge-l9es are %>p1 b !y are trac$ 9 su* fa9t %ades z to produce an effect v difficult ei!r to reproduce or to describe1 & yet impossible to =get4 ,! col\rs are manifold1 & !y v>y consid]ably ) ! seasons ( ! ye>4 ,yet ! b>e hill-sides 7:i* =m ! great] masses ( col\r 9 mo/ l&scapes71 ! des]t1 & ! di/ant m\nta9 ranges1 are ev] ! same4 ,mo/ travell]s make _! fir/ acqua9tance ) ,pale/9e 9 ,judea1 ent]+ x f ,jaffa4 ,:5 ! pla9s are beh9d y1 & y are 9 among ! valleys up :i* ! road climbs to ,j]usalem1 y at once recognise ! fact t a new & surpris+ _w ( col\r has be5 ent]$4 ,9 ! valley-bottom !re may be b a dry wat]c\rse1 or p]haps a ru/y /rip ( cultivat$ l&2 b above y !re is sure to be ! outcrop ( :ite & grey lime/one4 ,9 "s places x appe>s 9 *>act]less & irregul> blot*es ^: grotesque intrusion seems to confuse & c>icature ! m\nta9 side4 ,?is is1 h[ev]1 only occasional1 & ! usual & *>act]i/ic appe>ance is t ( long & fl[+ l9es ( /riation :i* g5]ally foll[ pretty closely ! curve ( ! sky-l9e4 ,! col\rs ( ^! /rata are _m4 ,y h ri* br[n b&s1 d>k r$1 purple1 yell[1 & black ones2 b ^! are ton$ d[n by ! dom9ant grey ( ! broad] b&s1 & ! g5]al effect is an indi/9ct grey ) a blui% t+e1 to :i* ! col\r$ b&s give a curi\sly artificial & decorative appe>ance4 ,z a "w ( ,art ,judea is mo/ int]e/+2 z "p ( ,nature x is almo/ incr$ible4 ,9 ! nor!rn di/rict1 ne> ,be!l1 ev]y?+ yields to /one1 & ! bright] col\rs disappe>4 ,! m\nta9 slopes %ew great nak$ ribs & b>s--! gigantic /airs ( ,jacob's dream4 ,on ! heights y\r horse slips & picks 8 way ov] long /ret*es ( ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,m\nt ,,( ,,temptation1 ,,f ,,j]i*o4 ,! ,m\nt ( ,temptation is "o ( ! spurs ( ! m\nta9s :i* ov]look ! deep valley ( ! ,jordan on its we/]n side4 ,! c5tral peak is ! traditional site ( ! ,temptation ( ,*ri/4 smoo? :ite rock2 9 ! valleys ! soil is buri$ "u innum]able b\ld]s & fragm5ts ( brok5 rock4 ,! :ole l& is /ony1 b ,judea %ews ?is at its wor/4 ,x is an imm5se /one w$ge ?ru/ into ,pale/9e f ea/ to we/4 ,s\? ( x lie ! f]tile valleys ( ,hebron1 ) _! weal? ( or*>d & plantation4 ,nor? ( x op5 ! 8fat valleys0 ( ,sam>ia1 w9d+ among r\nd$ hills plant$ to ! top ) olives1 or t]rac$ = v9es4 ,ov] ^!1 "h & !re1 a r$ cliff may hang1 or ! irrigation dit*es may furr[ & int]l9e a vale ( dove-col\r$ clay4 ,b :ile ! gre5 ( ,judea is = ! mo/ "p b ! ?9ne/ veil ( sombre olive-gre51 a m]e sett+ = ! rocks1 ,sam>ia is a really gre5 l&1 v>iegat$ by /one4 ,9 ! nor? ( ,sam>ia ! l& s9ks gradually ^u ! ,pla9 ( ,esdraelon4 ,z we saw x fir/ x 0 cov]$ by a yell[ mi/ ?r\gh :i* no?+ c\ld be se5 di/9ctly4 ,b aft]w>ds1 view$ 9 its :ole expanse f ! top ( ,tabor 9 cle> sunlight1 ! great battlefield ( ! ,ea/]n _w appe>$ 9 *>act]i/ic g>b--8r$ 9 its app>el10 ) ! v col\r ( ! blood :i* has s (t5 dr5*$ x4 ,galilee repeats ! lime/one outcrop ( ,judea1 b 9 f> g5tl] fa%ion1 ! und]gr[? & trees s(t5+ almo/ e l&scape1 & ! m\nta9s lead+ ! eye along bold sky-l9es to re/ on t =m ( beauty & ( light :i* ma/]s & wat*es ov] ! :ole l&--! :ite ,h]mon4 ,h]mon is always :ite4 ,b sometimes :5 cl\ds are =m+ rapidly ar\nd its summit1 x is a wond] ( brightness4 ,on no o!r m\nta91 surely1 0 x t 8a bright cl\d ov]%ad[$0 ,jesus & 8 ?ree fri5ds4 ,ev5 n[1 on _m a summ] day1 ,h]mon is lo/ 9 a *ang+ glory ( fro/$ silv]1 :5 ! sun /rikes ^u its cl\dwork1 & ! long trails ( sn[ 9 ! corries /ream t[>ds ! pla9 bel[4 ,! lime/one runs on into ,phnicia1 & seems to gr[ :it] !re4 ,no?+ c\ld be f9] ?an ! valleys ea/ ( ,tyre at h>ve/ "t1 :5 ! fields ( ripe gra9 wave bel[ cliffs :ite z m>ble1 & ! :ole sc5e1 ) its =egr\nd ( brilliantly rob$ reap]s1 is a /udy 9 :ite & gold4 ,b 9 ! high] valleys ( ,phnicia ! rock breaks ?r\gh a ri* r$ soil1 :i* 9 p>ts is gemm$ ) ! curi\s & beautiful 8,adonis /ones0--little egg-%ap$ bits ( s&/one1 dy$ to ! he>t ( !m ) deep crimson1 z if !y _h be5 /eep$ 9 newly %$ blood4 ,little wond] if ! wom5 ( old days 8wept = ,tammuz0 at ! sight ( !m4 ,! ?+ mo/ *>act]i/ic ( ,syrian col\r is its fa9tness & delicacy4 ,pi]re ,loti1 :o 9 ?is matt] is a witness wor?y ( all reg>d1 is con/antly end+ ! col\r adjectives 9 8 ,syrian books ) -atre--8yell[i%10 8blui%10 8gre5i%10 etc4 ,! g5]al impression is ( dim & fad$ t9ts1 put on1 z x 71 9 ?9 wa%es4 ,9 ! /onie/ regions !re seems to be no col\r at all1 z if ! sun _h blea*$ !m4 ,! curi\s col\r+ ( ! ,judean valleys1 :i* has be5 describ$1 is nev] aggressive1 & x takes "s c>efulness ( obs]vation to see any?+ 9 !m m ?an a blue gre5 9 ! sp>sely-plant$ olive-groves fad+ into fa9t gre5i% grey above4 ,! valleys ( ripe sesame & vet* are wa%$ into ! picture 9 pale yell[ or yell[ o*re4 ,:]e till$ e>? appe>s x is g5]ally a v>iegat$ expanse ( light br[n1 or p9k1 or t]ra-cotta4 ,! ea/]n slopes ( ,h]mon1 bel[ ! sn[1 %ew v]tical /ripes l ^? ( ! hairclo? & jute g>m5ts ( ! peasants1 wa%$ out ) ra9 & sun2 or !y are spread ^u ! roots ( ! m\nta9 l "s va/ ,indian %awl cunn+ly & m9utely int]wov5 ) r$ & gre5 ?reads1 b worn almo/ ?readb>e4 ,z y approa* a village 9 /rong sunlight1 y see x z a d>k br[n mass %ad$ angul>ly ) black2 b x seems to float above a mi/ ( ! airie/ purple %e51 :]e ! ?9ly-plant$ iris-fl[]s /& among ! graves be=e ! walls4 ,! ,sea ( ,galilee1 z we saw x1 0 light blue2 ! ,dead ,sea 0 light gre51 ) a haze ( evaporation r5d]+ x ev5 fa9t] 9 ! di/ance4 ,if ?is be true ( ! ne>1 x is d\bly s ( ! di/ant1 l&scape4 ,9 a c\ntry s m\nta9\s & s %e]-cleft z ,pale/9e1 di/ant views are se5 = ! mo/ "p z vi/as1 ! 8l& t is v f> (f0 reveal+ itself at ! end ( "s ,v-%ap$ gorge or t[]+ ov] "s int]m$iate m\nta9 range4 ,( c\rse di/ant views are fa9t 9 all l&s1 b 9 ,pale/9e ! cle> air keeps !m di/9ct ) clean-cut edge1 h[ev] fa9t !y are4 ,?us !re is p]haps no?+ m delicate & spirituel 9 ! _w ?an ^? fa9t dreamlike m\nta9s 9 ! extreme di/ance ( ,syrian vi/as--! hills ea/ ( ,jordan grey1 ) a m]e suspicion ( blue 9 !m1 or ! lilac & heliotrope m\nta9s ( ! des]t :i* =m ! magic backgr\nd ( ,damascus look+ ea/w>d4 ,ref]5ce has be5 made to ! irises 7! 8lilies ( ! field07 ne> villages4 ,^! are b typical ( ! g5]al %e5 ( t c>pet ( wild fl[]s :i* e spr+-"t spreads ov] ! l&4 ,!y are ( e col\r4 ,!re are sc>let poppies & crimson anemones1 blue dw>f cornfl[]s1 yell[ m>igolds1 :ite n>cissus 7said to be ! ,rose ( ,%>on72 b "h !y seldom gr[ 9 pat*es ( /rong hue4 ,ea* fl[] blooms ap>t1 & ! %e5 ( !m is delicate & sugge/ive r ?an gorge\s4 ,!y seem to %>e ! retic5ce & %yness ( ! l&1 & t+e r ?an pa9t x4 ,ev5 ! animal life con=ms to ?is da9ty rule2 liz>ds are ev]y:]e1 b _! col\r+ is t ( _! environm5t1 n[ /one-grey1 n[ w9e-r$1 n[ /raw-col\r$4 ,*ameleons are any?+ y please--gre5 9 gr[+ corn1 black among basalt rocks4 ,tortoises are blue at ! sulphur spr+s1 br[n or slate 9 ! muddy banks ( /reams4 ,?is fa9tness is1 h[ev]1 b half ! tru? ( ! col\r ( ,syria4 ,ev]y:]e x is r5d]$ emphatic by c]ta9 vivid spla%es ( ! mo/ d>+ brilliance4 ,:]ev] spr+s are f\nd y h in/ances ( ?is contra/1 & ,pale/9e is ess5tially ! l& ( bright =egr\nds ?r[n up aga9/ dim backgr\nds4 ,! ,jordan valley is ! greate/ example1 runn+ s\? along its :ole l5g?1 8a gre5 s]p5t0 betwe5 ! pale m\nta9s ( ! ea/ & ! fa9t mosaic ( ! we/]n l&4 ,its jungle is uncompromis+ly di/9ct ?r\gh\t ! entire c\rse1 & its col\r is liv+ gre51 ) a :ite fla% ( brok5 wat] or a quiet fl[ ( br[n bur/+ "h & !re ?r\gh ! v]dure4 ,o!r /reams are simil>ly m>k$1 ) luxuri\s und]gr[? ( re$s1 v>i$ by clumps ( hollyhock or edg$ ) w9d+ ribbons ( mag5ta ole&]4 ,b ! mo/ /rik+ oases ( ?is k9d are ! valley ( ,%e*em & ! city ( ,damascus4 ,!re is a hill seldom visit$ by t\ri/s1 b well wor? climb+1 set 9 ! broad vale ( ,makhna1 "r opposite ,jacob's ,well4 ,nor? & s\? pa/ ! foot ( ?is hill runs ! broad valley4 ,x is edg$ on ! we/]n side by ! cont9u\s l9e ( ! c5tral m\nta9 range ( ,sam>ia--cont9u\s except = "o great ga%1 :]e1 z if a giant's sword _h cleft ! range1 ! valley ( ,%e*em ent]s t ( ,makhna at "r angles4 ,! :ole l&scape is 9 dim col\r except = t valley ( ,%e*em4 ,ebal & ,g]izim gu>d its ea/]n end1 dull & rocky bo?4 ,b ! valley :i* !y gu>d is f$ by c\ntless spr+s & int]sect$ by rivulets1 s t bel[ ! %+le ( _! slopes !re spreads a fan-%ap$ expanse ( int5sely vivid gre51 l a c>pet flung out f ,nablus betwe5 ! m\nta9s4 ,! l[] edge ( ! gre5 is brok5 by ! :ite wall ( ! enclosure ( ,jacob's ,well1 & ! cupola ( ,joseph's tomb4 ,damascus--surely ! mo/ bewit*+ ( cities--owes its wit*]y to ! same cause4 ,! riv] ,abana sp5ds itself ^u ! city4 ,z y approa* x f ! s\? x discloses itself z a mass ( bold outl9e & high col\r 9 ! mid/ ( a great field ( v]dure1 flank$ on ! we/ by precipit\s hills ( s& & rock--%e] tilt$ des]t4 ,:5 y climb ^? hills y see ! :ite city1 jewell$ ) h] m9>ets ( _m hues1 re/+ on a clo? ( d>k gre5 velvet ^: edge is %>ply def9$4 ,imm$iately beyond t edge ! s& beg9s1 /ret*+ into ! f>!r des]t ?r\gh pal] & pal] %ades ( rose & yell[ to ! lilac hills 9 ! ea/]n di/ance4 ,x is n only ! wat]-spr+s1 h[ev]1 t provide ! l& ) vivid =egr\nds4 ,loti describes a little s&-hill 9 ! des]t 8all bespangl$ ) mica10 :i* 8sets itself out1 %9+ l a silv] tumulus40 ,su* bold & deta*$ features are by no means uncommon ev5 on ! we/ ( ! ,jordan4 ,! "n ( ! cliff 8,bozez0 9 ,mi*ma% means 8%9+10 & !re are _m %9+ rocks 9 ^! valleys--ei!r masses ( smoo? lime/one1 or d>k basalt rocks1 f ^: dripp+ surface ! sun is reflect$ 9 bl9d+ spl5d\r aft] ra94 ,ev5 )\t su* reflection ! sudd5 intrusion ( black rock w (t5 give "* to an o!rwise neutral l&scape4 ,b ! sun is ! magician ( ,syria1 :o blea*es h] & !n ?r[s up aga9/ 8 h&iwork ! bolde/ contra/s ( /rong light & %ade4 ,no "o :o has se5 ! crimson flu% ( sunset on ! olives1 or ! sudd5 *ange ( a grey ,judean hill-side to ri* orange1 or ! :ole ea/]n cliffs ( ! ,sea ( ,galilee turn$ to ! lik5ess ( fle%-col\r$ m>ble1 w be likely to =get ! picture4 ,loti's wond]ful description ( des]t sunsets--8inc&esc5t violet1 & ! r$ ( burn+ coals0--is n ov]drawn4 ,%ad[s w trans=m ! poore/ into ! ri*e/ col\r+4 ,! tawny des]t *anges to ! lusci\s d>k ( l5g!n+ indigo at ! foot ( a great rock2 & ! %ad[s ( cl\ds float across ,esdraelon1 *ang+ ! r$ pla9 to deep w9e-col\r z !y pass4 ,silh\ettes are ( daily occurr5ce 9 t crisp air4 ,"o sc5e 9 p>ticul> made an indelible impression4 ,x 0 a village on t]rac$ heights1 ?r[n black aga9/ a gold & heliotrope sunset4 ,! figures ( ,arabs /&+ or sitt+ /atuesque ^u ! sky-l9e 7 magnifi$ to ! appe>ance ( giant gu>dians ( ! walls1 & ! mis]able little hamlet might h be5 an impregnable =tress4 ,! inhabitants h ent]$ ) full sympa?y into ! _s ( ?is play ( =egr\nd4 ,!y are spectacul> if !y are any?+4 ,_! religion =bids !m all practice ( ! graphic arts1 & mo/ ( ! ,we/]n pictures :i* are to be se5 9 *ur*es are execrable en\gh to reconcile !m to ! re/riction4 ,b !y obey ! law 9 small ?+s only to break x by trans=m+ !mselves & _! surr\nd+s into "o great picture4 ,_! clo?+1 _! build+s1 & _! h&iwork are a brilliant foil to ! dull backgr\nd4 ,f !m ,v5ice le>n$ h] bright col\r+1 & !re are few ,engli% homes :i* h n borr[$ some?+ f !m4 ,9 "p1 ?is is ?ru/ ^u !m by ! sun4 ,! int]iors ( h\ses are all ,rembr&t "w1 z ,cond] has happily rem>k$4 ,! rooms are d>k1 & ! w9d[s v small4 ,b :5 ! sun %9es ?r\gh ! ap]tures1 _! ri* br[n raft]s & r$ pott]y gleam out ( ! %ad[4 ,"o su* int]ior is especially memorable1 :]e a b> ( int5se sunlight lit up ! sk9 & _m-col\r$ g>m5ts ( *ildr5 sitt+ 9 ! w9d[-sill1 :ile ?r\gh ! op5 door ! gre5 grass ( ! c\rty>d %one4 ,/ill m wond]ful is ! effect :5 "o op5s ! door ( a silk-w9d+ room 9 sunlight1 & sees ! col\rs w\nd on ! great sp9dles1 or :5 "o ent]s ! d>k ar*ways ( ! baza>s :]e long %afts ( light /rik+ d[n slantwise ^u a %9+ pat* bel[ turn ! br[n %ad[ ( ! ar* to indigo4 ,! natives see ?is1 & love ! lusci\sness ( x4 ,!y build m9>ets cas$ ) em]ald tiles1 or domes ( copp] :i* w soon be coat$ ) v]digris4 ,( late ye>s a fur!r t\* has be5 add$ 9 ! r$-til$ ro(s :i* are already s popul> 9 ! t[ns4 ,9 pro( ( ! g5ius ( ! ,ea/]ns = col\r1 no?+ ne$ be m5tion$ b _! c>pets & _! glass4 ,! glass ( old w9d[s 9 mosques begg>s all description4 ,x is an exp]i5ce r ?an a spectacle4 ,! panes are s m9ute1 & s de/itute ( picture or ( patt]n1 t !y are unnotic$ 9 ,illu/ration3 ,,cana ,,( ,,galilee4 ,?is is ! village ( ,kafr ,k5n1 believ$ to be ! ,cana ( ! ,new ,te/am5t1 :]e our ,"l p]=m$ ,8 fir/ miracle at ! m>riage fea/4 detail1 & ! g5]al effect is t ( a religi\s atmosph]e 9 :i* all "o's ord9>y ?\ghts & feel+s are lo/ 9 ! ov]p[]+ s5se ( 8some?+ ri* & /range40 ,aft] ! magic ( t light1 ) its bl5d$ purple & amb] & ruby1 ! f9e/ ,we/]n "w seems h>%4 ,x is h>dly light2 x is illum9at$ %ad[4 ,! rugs & c>pets1 ) _! intricate col\r+1 are m famili> & ne$ n be describ$4 ,! f9e/ ( !m are ( silk1 & _! delicacy ( %ade is m>vell\s4 ,! patt]ns con/antly elude ! eye1 promis+ & j almo/ rea*+ "s recognisable figure1 only to lose !mselves 9 a bright maze4 ,x is said t !y 7 sugge/$ by ! mead[s ( v>iegat$ fl[]s2 b !y are int5s] & m passionate--z if _! design]s _h felt t _! task 0 to supply an ev5 /rong] c\nt]p>t to ! fa9t l&scape4 ,! gay clo?+ ( ! ,ea/ is prov]bial4 ,ev5 ! poore/ peasants are respl5d5t4 8,f9e l950 is /ill ! m>k ( ! ri* man1 b ,laz>us c mat* him = 8sc>let40 ,9 c]ta9 p>ts ! m5 are clad 9 coats ( %eepsk91 ! wool be+ inside1 & protrud+ l a heavy fr+e along ! edges4 ,almo/ ev]ybody's %oes are bright r$4 ,9 "o place we saw a %eph]d ^: %eepsk9 coat _h met ) an accid5t1 & ! pat* :i* fill$ ! vacant space 9 ! raw br[n back ( him 0 ( an elaborate t>tan clo?4 ,9 ano!r village all ! m5 wore crimson aprons4 ,:5 our camp-s]vants 7 on ! m>* !y seem$ to be 9 sackclo?1 or 9 ?ick grey felt :i* sugge/$ fire-pro( app>el2 b :5 !y rea*$ a t[n !y blossom$ out into a ra9b[4 ,*ildr5 play+ 9 a village /reet1 wom5 at ! wells1 /atuesque %eph]ds /&+ solit>y 9 ! fields1 all seem$ arrang$ z = a tableau4 ,ev]ybody (ficial--! railway gu>d1 ! escort1 ev5 ! m\rn] at a fun]al--is imm5sely consci\s ( 8 dignity2 & on him desc5ds ! _s ( ,solomon 9 all 8 glory4 ,! man y hire to guide y = a walk ( half a doz5 miles w disappe> into 8 h\se & em]ge 9 gorge\s array4 ,"o ( our guides deck$ himself 9 fl[+ yell[ robes & m>*$ be=e u o/5tati\sly c>ry+ 9 front ( him a weapon :i* appe>$ to be a cross betwe5 a c>v+-knife & a reap+-hook1 ?r\gh a l& peaceful z an infant s*ool4 ,a procession m>*+ to "s sacr$ place across a pla9 lights ! :ole sc5e z ) a /r+ ( col\r$ lant]ns4 ,ev5 :]e ! natives h adopt$ ,european dress ! fez is reta9$1 & a cr[d ( m51 se5 f above1 is always ruddy4 ,! delight 9 /rong col\r goes ev5 "o /ep f>!r4 ,! ri* hues ( ! fle% 9 sunny l&s seem to suit ! l&scape1 & "o soon le>ns to sympa?ise ) ! native pref]5ce = dusky & br[n complexions4 ,to !m a fair sk9 appe>s lepr\s1 ?\gh bright flax5 or auburn hair are reg>d$ ) great admiration4 ,n satisfi$1 h[ev]1 ) _! natural beauty1 ! ,syrians pa9t & tattoo _! fle% 9 ! mo/ appall+ mann]1 & r$d5 _! f+]-nails ) h5na4 ,fa%ionable ladies1 & 9 "s places m5 also1 pa9t _! eyebr[s to meet1 & t\* 9 _! eyelids ) antimony1 ^: blue %ad[ is suppos$ to convey ! impression ( irresi/ible eyela%es4 ,9 t[ns :]e 8! ,p>is modes0 are ! sign ( sm>tness1 "s ( ! girls pa9t _! faces p9k & :ite--faces pa9t$ ) a v5geance1 ) a ?ick & %9+ enamel :i* trans=ms ! we>]s into animat$ wax dolls ( ! weirde/ appe>ance4 ,b t :i* %ocks ! unsophi/icat$ travell] mo/ is ! tattoo+ ( _m ( ! wom54 ,"s ( !m are m>k$ ) small arr[-head blue pat*es on =ehead1 *eeks1 & *92 o!rs are l9$ & scor$ l ,s\? ,sea ,isl&]s1 & _! l[] lips trans=m$ entirely f r$ to blue4 ,all ?is is savage en\gh1 b x illu/rates 9 its own crude way t delight 9 /rong col\r :i* trans=ms ! human life ( ! ,ea/ into su* a vivid =egr\nd to ! fa9t l&scape4 ,9 ! dress !re is arti/ic in/9ct z well z b>b>ic spl5d\r1 & 9 ! c>pets1 ! mosaics1 & ! glass !re is brilliant & mat*less arti/ry4 ,z to ! g5]al pr9ciple :i* has be5 /at$ 9 reg>d to natural col\r+1 ?is is z x always mu/ h be54 ,^! 7 ! quiet hues ( ! l&1 & ^! ! brilliant po9ts ( /rong light 9 x :i* ,*ri/'s eyes saw1 & :i* gave _! col\r to ! ,gospels4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,! ,,des]t ,environm5t c\nts = mu* 9 national life4 ,a c\ntry kn[s itself1 & ass]ts itself1 z 9 contra/ ) :at is imm$iately ov] its bord]2 or x reta9s connection ) ! neighb\r+ life1 & is :at x is p>tly because ! region next x ov]fl[s into its life4 ,at any rate1 to und]/& any?+ m ?an ! col\r ( a l&--inde$ ev5 to und]/& t1 z we %all see--x is necess>y to beg9 outside x & "k some?+ ( its surr\nd+s4 ,= ,pale/9e1 environm5t means sea & des]t--sea along a /raight l9e = ! mo/ "p unbrok5 by any crease or wr9kle ( coa/-edge :i* might s]ve = a h>b\r1 & des]t ?r[n r\nd all ! re/1 except ! m\nta9\s nor?4 ,pale/9e is a great oasis--a f]tile re/+-place = travell]s mak+ ! gr& j\rney f ,egypt to ,mesopotamia2 betwe5 :i* k+doms %e 0 ev] also ! buff] /ate 9 w> & politics4 ,^! nations 7 h] visitors1 h] gue/s1 h] t]rors1 b !y nev] 7 h] neighb\rs4 ,h] neighb\rs are ! sea & ! des]t4 ,! sea %e nev] took = a fri5d4 ,) no h>b\r1 nor any visible isl& to tempt h] to adv5ture1 & no sailor blood 9 h] ve9s1 %e hat$ & fe>$ ! sea1 & ?\ght ( x ) ill-w4 ,!re is little ( ! wi/fulness ( romance 9 h] ?\ght ( ! dwell]s 9 its utt]mo/ p>ts2 little ( ! s5se ( beauty 9 h] poetry ( ! break+ waves4 ,%e views ! ,phnician trad] :o does bus9ess on ! ocean z a p]son to be a/oni%$ at r ?an to be c\nt$ h]oic4 ,%e exults 9 ! fact t ,god has 8 pa? on ! great wat]s1 b has no wi% to make any j\rney !re h]self4 ,h] angels plant _! feet ^u ! sea1 & %e looks =w>d almo/ triumphantly to ! "t :5 x w be dri$ up & disappe>4 ,mean:ile its inaccessible huge dep? is = h] poets a sort ( ,geh5na--a fit place = ?r[+ (f evil ?+s beyond ! *ance ( _! reappe>+4 ,s9s are to be ca/ into x1 & (f5d]s1 ) mill/ones at _! necks4 ,! des]t 0 ,israel's real neighb\r4 ,s\?-ea/ f h] x /ret*$ = a ?\s& miles4 ,f ,n4,n4,e4 r\nd ?r\gh ,e4 & ,s4 to ,w4 x hemm$ h] 94 ,to a ,briton1 wat*+ ! dep>ture ( ! ,bagdad drom$>y po/ f ,damascus1 ! des]t seems inf9itely m appall+ & unnatural ?an ! sea4 ,= t5 days ^! uncanny bea/s & m5 w travel1 m>*+ 7x is said7 tw5ty h\rs out ( e tw5ty-f\r4 ,! /ret* ( dre>9ess :i* op5s to ! ,we/]n imag9ation1 z y wat* ! less5+ specks 9 ! tawny di/ance1 is indescribable4 ,to ! ,ea/]n x is n s1 & x nev] 0 s4 ,he kn[s its horrors1 & yet he loves x4 ,! mod]n ,arab calls x ,nefud 7i4e4 8exhau/$10 8sp5t071 &1 accord+ to ,palgrave1 !re are 9 ! ,arabian des]t s&s no less ?an #fjj feet 9 dep?4 ,yet ) all its horrors x is aft] all 8 home4 ,! des]t is n all consecrat$ to dea?4 ,besides ! occasional oases :i* dot its b>r5 expanse1 !re are _m regions :]e grass & h]bage may be _h cont9ually s long z ! flocks keep w&]+4 ,accord+ly ! long l[ black t5t1 ) its obliquely pit*$ t5t-ropes & skilfully driv5 pegs1 takes ! place ( su* sub/antial build+ z might create a city4 ,x has be5 s = c\ntless g5]ations1 until n[ ! des]t ,arab fe>s walls & w n be p]suad$ to ent] !m4 ,k+lake gives a rem>kable in/ance ( ?is1 tell+ ( a j\rney to ,gaza on :i* 8 ,arabs actually ab&on$ _! camels r ?an accompany !m )9 ! gates4#a ,colonel ,cond] insi/s t ! ,arabs are entirely di/9ct f ! ,fellah9 ( ! ,syrian villages2 yet he & o!r writ]s call att5tion to ! bord]l& ea/ ( ,jordan :]e ! b\nd>ies ( ! rival races sw+ to & fro ) ! v>y+ successes or failures ( ! ye>s4 ,9 places :]e ! l& lies op51 z at ! ,pla9 ( ,esdraelon1 ! ea/ invades ! we/4 ,no "o :o travels 9 ,pale/9e c fail to be impress$--mo/ w probably be surpris$--by ! frequ5cy ) :i* ^? black hair-clo? t5ts are se51 sprawl+ l ! sk9 ( "s wild-cat pegg$ out along ! gr\nd4 ,if ! "q be ask$ :at becomes ( !m1 ! day's j\rney w likely en\gh supply ! answ]4 ,9 ! m>ket-place ( a t[n y may see _! inhabitants trad+ _! des]t w>e = city produce4 ,b ev5 su* slight contact ( city ) des]t evid5tly has its temptations4 ,9 ! valley bel[1 ! t5t is pit*$ on ! edge ( a field rudely cultivat$4 ,! nomad "h has already yield$ to ! agriculturi/4 ,desc5d to ! ,jordan valley1 & y %all see ! hair-clo? cov]+ a hut ^: sides are ( wov5 re$s f ! riv]1 & a little f>!r on ! cov]+ itself w be ex*ang$ = a ro( ( re$s4 ,f9ally1 y may look f ! road t runs betwe5 ! two ma9 s\rces ( ! ,jordan1 & see 9 ! s\!rn di/ance1 %9+ out aga9/ ! lu% v]dure ( ! ,huleh morass1 ! r$-til$ ro( ( a two-/orey villa--! h\se ( ! ,%eikh ( ! local tribe ( ,arabs6#b ,?is immigration has gone on f "t immemorial1 & x 0 "s su* process by :i* ,pale/9e receiv$ all h] e>li] inhabitants4 ,once fix$ 9 cities & settl$ d[n to ! cultivation ( ! fields1 _! "* & way ( life s *ang$ t ! des]t & its folk became _! enemies4 ,yet a deep] loyalty rema9$ ?r\gh all su* ali5ation2 &1 9 spite ( dang]s & ev5 ho/ilities1 ! des]t 0 /ill _! =m] home4 ,x is n only by its neighb\rhood1 h[ev]1 t ! des]t has influ5c$ ,pale/9e4 ,nature has done h] be/ to %ut x (f f ! l&1 f ! ea/]n side at lea/1 by ! trem5d\s b>ri] ( ! ,jordan valley4 ,n ev5 ! angel ( ! wild]ness1 "o w\ld ?9k1 might cross t def5ce4 ,yet ev5 t b>ri] has be5 cross$1 & a bird's-eye view ( ,pale/9e %ews a l& bitt5 into by great tracts ( real des]t we/ ( ,jordan4 ,9 a modifi$ degree1 ! :ole ( ,judea--t great /one w$ge to :i* ref]5ce 0 made 9 ,*apt] ,i4--exemplifies ?is4 ,half ! ,judean t]ritory is wild]ness1 & ! o!r half is only kept back f ! des]t by %e] =ce ( indu/ry4 ,ev5 on ! we/]n side ?is is /rik+ly se54 ,z view$ f ! ocean1 ! desolate s& & scrub ( ! coa/ seems to clut* at ! l&1 /ret*+ "h & !re f> inl& f ! %ore4 ,b ! des]t ( ,judah1 9 ! s\?-ea/ ( ! c\ntry1 is ! great intrusion ( ! des]t ^u ,pale/9e4 ,! sea-bo>d ( ,pale/9e is p]haps ! smoo!/ & mo/ unbrok5 ( any c\ntry 9 ! _w4 ,b if a coa/-l9e ( ! des]t 7 sket*$ 9 ! same way z a sea-coa/ is %ewn on maps1 ! edge w\ld %[ an outl9e almo/ z brok5 z t ( ! ,greek coa/1 ) _m a bay & creek4 ,! des]t is ! sea ( ,syria1 & its in?ru/ is l t ( great f+]s feel+ _! way ?r\gh ! pa/ures to ! v gates ( h] cities1 & at "o place rea*+ a po9t )9 a mile or two ( h] capital4 ,disraeli describes graphically ! transition f ,canaan to ,illu/ration3 ,,on ,,! ,,road ,,f ,,j]usalem ,,to ,,be?any4 /ony ,arabia--! fir/ s&y pat*es2 ! h]bage gradually disappe>+ till all t is left ( x is %rubs tuft+ ! ridges ( l[ undulat+ s&-hills2 !n ! s& becom+ /ony1 ) no plant-life rema9+ b an occasional ?orn1 until pla9s ( s& end 9 dull ranges ( m\nta9s cov]$ ) loose fl9ts4 ,9 ! j\rney f ,be?lehem to ! ,dead ,sea ! transition is ev5 m abrupt4 ,h>dly h y left ! 8fields ( ! %eph]ds0 :5 y p]ceive t ! h]bs1 ?\gh /ill pl5tiful among ! /ones1 are p>*$4 ,9 a mile or two !re is no?+ r\nd y b wild greyi%-yell[ s& & rock4 ,y ?read y\r way prec>i\sly along ! sides ( gorges till y rea* t %e] yell[ cleft d[n :i* ,kidron is slic+ its way ) ! air ( a suicide to ! sea4 ,!n y come up to a l(ty ridge f :i* are se5 ! dre>y t[]s ( ,m> ,saba1 l ! 8bl9d squat turret0 ( ,*ilde ,rol&'s adv5ture1 8) l[ grey rocks girt r\nd1 *9 ^u h&1 to see ! game at bay40 ,s y j\rney on1 feel+ at times t ?is is n sc5]y1 x is be+ buri$ alive 9 great /one *amb]s b5ea? ! surface2 at o!r times welcom+ ! sight ( a broom bu% l t "u :i* ,elijah lay d[n & pray$ t he might die4 ,! c>case ( a horse or ! skeleton ( a camel are almo/ welcome1 break+ ! monoton\s empt9ess ( ?is l& ( dea?4 ,! physical influ5ce ( ! des]t on ! l& is evid5t 9 _m ways4 ,greece & ,brita9 are n m truly *ildr5 ( ! sea ?an is ,syria ! des]t's *ild4 ,ev5 ^? :o h _h no exp]i5ce ( ! des]t prop]1 b h only made ! regulation t\r 9 ,pale/9e1 w h memories ( :at !y saw recall$ to !m 9 e page ( a book descriptive ( ! des]t4 ,! l& ?r\gh\t has om9\sly mu* 9 common ) its desolate neighb\r--s mu* s z to sugge/ a t]ritory rescu$ f ! des]t & kept f rev]t+ only by /r5u\s h&l+4 ,_m ?+s g to confirm ?is impression4 ,! w9ds t bl[ f ea/ or s\? h cross$ ! s& be=e !y rea* ! m\nta9s4 ,:5 !y are cool1 !y are pure & fre%1 unbrea!d be=e1 8virg9 air40 ,! ev5+ breeze ( ,syria is 8! respiration ( ! des]t0 aft] its brea?less heat ( day4 ,:5 ! w9d is hot1 x is t]rible z only w9d c be t comes (f burn+ s&4 ,! %irky1 or sirocco1 int]prets ! des]t 9 a fa%ion :i* ! travell] is n likely to =get4 ,we rode aga9/ x half ! l5g? ( ! ,pla9 ( ,esdraelon1 :5 ! !rmomet] regi/]$ #ajd 9 ! %ade1 until ! /eel ( our col\r$ eye-glasses became s hot t we 7 glad to remove !m1 & endure ! gl>e by pref]5ce4 ,! plant-life ( ! des]t has its c\nt]p>t 9 ! l&4 ,loti describes x ) 8 usual vividness4 ,!re is ! furze du/$ ) f9e s&2 !re are ! /range s&-fl[]s ( yell[ or violet col\rs1 ! spikes %ot out ( ! soil )\t leafage1 ! balls ( ?orn :i* w\nd ! feet1 ! occasional palm-tree1 ! :ite edible manna plant4 ,& !re is ! exquisite sc5t ( ^! aft] ra91 s /rong t "o might ?9k a j> ( p]fume _h be5 brok5 at ! t5t door--a p]fume 9 :i* "o di/+ui%es ! sc5ts ( res91 lemon1 g]anium1 & myrrh4 ,all ?is ! ,pale/9e travell] seems to recognise2 9 t curi\s b famili> flora1 & t pung5t aromatic smell1 we h ! intrusion ( ! des]t aga94 ,! col\r ( ! l& has already be5 describ$1 & "h aga9 we h ! t\* ( ! wild]ness4 ,! col\r+ is no d\bt p>tly due to ! quality ( ! air1 dry & crisp z no?+ b ^? miles ( s& c\ld make x4 ,hav+ absolutely no conc]ns ( its own1 z wood$ or grassy l&s h1 ! des]t ab&ons itself to ! sun4 ,x takes & gives ! sunlight :olly1 mak+ itself a m]e reflector = ! light & heat4 8,ev]y?+ 9 ?is des]t is ( "o col\r--a tawny yell[4 ,! rocks1 ! p>tridges1 ! camels1 ! foxes1 ! ibex1 are all ( ?is %ade40#c ,yet ?is absolutely neutral region1 j because ( its neutrality1 cat*es ! sunrise & ! sunset 9 a brilliance t is all its own1 & deep5s its %ad[s to liquid dep?s ( indigo & violet4 ,9 ?is we see ! extreme & untemp]$ =m ( t int]play ( fa9t backgr\nd ) int5se =egr\nd :i* is ! *>act]i/ic feature ( ! col\r-s*eme ( ,syria4 ,x is ! same z reg>ds =m4 ,! two t[]s ( ,m> ,saba are among ! mo/ impressive ( all ! ,syrian spectacles4 ,pitilessly unsugge/ive1 !y are ! mo/ unhomely ?+s "o ev] saw1 l ! m]e skeletons ( habitations4 ,b "p ( ?is impression comes f ! %ape ( ! surr\nd+ hills4 ,rang$ 9 a wide semicircle1 _! fronts eat5 out ) l&-slips & torr5ts1 !y are poli%$ & smoo? l gigantic sculptures4 ,9 "s p>ts ! regul>ity ( _! cones & tables sugge/s ! "w ( purposeless b mighty build]s4 ,9 o!r p>ts ! rocks are twi/$ z if by torm5tors1 or tumbl$ 9 utt] confusion4 ,?is too1 z we %all see1 has its modifi$ c\nt]p>t 9 ! l&4 ,if ! des]t has ?us produc$ a /rong physical effect ^u ! l&1 its moral effects are ev5 m app>5t4 ,we h se5 h[ to ! dwell]s we/ ( ,jordan x 0 at once an abid+ enemy & an anci5t home4 ,%ut out f x by ! huge tr5* ( ! ,jordan valley & ! b>ricade ( ! ea/]n m\nta9s1 ! ,syrian /ill feels en\gh ( ! des]t's fi]y t\* to fe> x z an enemy4 ,its w9d bla/s 8 crops & its heat drives him f 8 valleys to ! hill c\ntry = ! brea? ( life4 ,e travell] speaks ( ! 8positive weight0 ( heat t makes m5 b5d l[ 9 _! saddles4 ,o!rs besides ! ,p]sians are con/ra9$1 z ,k+lake puts x1 to b[ d[n be=e ! sun1 ^: 8fi]ce w0 is mo/ t]ribly felt 9 ^? tracts ( ! l& :i* ! des]t has claim$ = its own4 ,9 ! des]t !re are ! same conditions :i* are to be f\nd 9 ! l&1 only 9 extreme =ms & )\t mitigation4 ,x is ! place ( tempe/s1 fires1 & reptiles4 ,^! visit ! l& at times1 b !y abide 9 t weird c\ntry into ^: di/ances ! ,syrian may pe] f mo/ ( 8 m\nta9 tops4 ,!re1 too1 abide ^? d>k & occult p[]s ( evil 9 :i* e ,ea/]n man believes4 ,! magic ( ! des]t--its trea*]\s mirage1 its g5ii 7by no means difficult to imag9e 9 ! =ms ( s&y :irlw9ds ^: m>* is /rewn ) corpses71 & its inf9ite unexplor$ possibilities ( t]ror--all ?is is v real to ! native imag9ation4 ,its inhabitants1 too1 are uncanny to ?9k (4 ,! true ,arabian1 :om p]haps !y may h met on a j\rney1 ) 8 jade-h&l$ jewell$ sword & 8 %runk5 sk92 ! lunatics :o h w&]$ to its cong5ial wildness2 ! an*orites & ascetics :om1 l ! scapegoat ( anci5t times1 s9 has driv5 =? to its unwall$ prison-h\se1--all ^! fill 9 = ,syrians ! gha/ly picture1 & its tales ( w>s & massacres add ! la/ t\* ( horror4 ,no?+ proves & exemplifies all ?is m /rik+ly ?an ! app>5tly unreasonable view ( ! f]tility1 beauty1 & g5]al p]fection ( ,pale/9e :i* its inhabitants h always *]i%$4 ,visitors f ! ,we/ are (t5 disappo9t$1 & z !y move f place to place _! wond] gr[s z !y recall ! ,biblical descriptions ( ! l& fl[+ ) milk & honey4 ,all[+ = ! _m c5turies ( misrule & det]ioration1 x /ill rema9s obvi\s t ,pale/9e nev] c h be5 t dreaml& ( natural delight :i* piety has imag9$4 ,b ! inhabitant views x1 z ,dr4 ,smi? has po9t$ out1 n 9 contra/ ) ! ,we/1 b 9 contra/ ) ! des]t4 ,we h to rememb] h[ 8its ea/]n =e/s1 its imm5se :eat-fields1 its /reams1 ! oases r\nd its p]5nial f\nta9s1 ! pride ( ,jordan1 impress ! immigrant nomad40 ,?is contra/ exagg]ates all 8 bless+s 9 a heat ( appreciation4 ,com+ 9 f ! des]t1 a man sees trees & f\nta9s n z !y are 9 !mselves1 b z !y are 9 contra/ ) burn+ s&3 he welcomes !m z ! gift ( ,god's grace4 ,! s\nd ( w9d among ! leaves or ( fl[+ wat] is to him truly ! spee* ( a god4#d ,to _m a wayf>] ! poore/ outskirts ( ! ,syrian l& h meant salvation f imm95t dea?1 & s appreciation enl>ges to optimism1 & ! v b>r5ness ( ! des]t becomes a *all5ge to hope & fai?4 ,/reams w break =? !re1 z 9 8 happy exp]i5ce !y h already brok5 =?1 until ! :ole b>r5 wa/e %all blossom z ! rose4 ,x is by su* hope & fai? t ! tribes ( ,pale/9e h liv$4 ,!re is a magnific5t indomitabl5ess 9 ! spectacle ( ,jews aft] two ?\s& ye>s ( exile /ill celebrat+ _! v9tage fe/ival 9 ! slums ( great cities1 or 9 ! 8squalid qu>t] ( "s bleak nor!rn t[n :]e !re is nev] a sun t c at any rate rip5 grapes40 ,"o seems to f9d ! key to ?is 9 t tradition ( ! ,arabs t c]ta9 ru9s ne> ! ,dead ,sea are ! rema9s ( anci5t v9ey>ds4 ,! ,syrian l& c nev] be se5 b z a miracle ( life & beauty rescu$ f ! des]t1 & t appreciation becomes ! inc5tive = a l>g] hope4 ,yet x is n z an enemy1 h[ev] wond]fully conqu]$ or /r5u\sly held at bay1 t ! des]t appeals mo/ to ! ,syrian4 ,z he looks ea/w>d to ! hills ( ,moab & dreams ( :at lies beyond !m1 !re is p]haps m ( wi/fulness ?an ( t]ror 9 8 he>t4 ,! melan*oly note ( 8 music1 he>d by e camp-fire 9 ! long ev5+s1 is inf9itely sugge/ive z well z pa!tic4 ,:]e 0 t note le>n$ if n 9 black t5ts pit*$ 9 ! b\ndless wa/e1 :]e man's littl5ess1 9 contra/ ) ! great p[]s ( ,nature1 oppress$ him into prone fatalism1 or reveal$ to him ! inf9ite refuge & com=t ( ! ,ev]la/+ ,arms8 ,he ^: fa!rs h sung su* songs w n satisfy 8 s\l ) ! bu/le ( t[ns4 ,he w ne$ ! des]t = retreat1 t 8 confus$ m9d may calm itself d[n to ord] & f9d new revelations ( tru?4 ,& :5 ! ,syrian retreats to ! des]t he seems r to be go+ home ?an abroad4 ,david & ,elijah1 ,paul & ,mohamm$1 = v>i\s reasons1 b ) ! same urg5cy1 betook !mselves to ! solitude4 ,jesus ,*ri/ himself 0 driv5 ( ! ,_s into ! wild]ness4 ,if temptation wait$ !m !re1 & ! s5se ( exile & des]tion1 x 0 !re also t angels m9i/]$ to !m2 & anci5t prophecies 7 fulfill$ 9 ^? 8/reams ( spiritual orig9ality :i* broke =? 9 ! des]ts ( moral r\t9e0 ( _! times4 ,to _! _s1 & to ! _s ( all dwell]s 9 ! l&1 ! des]t is n enemy only1 x is home4 ,?is fact is abundantly borne out by _m traits ( "* :i* are ! survivals ( a des]t ance/ry4 ,!re is no?+ 9 ,syria :i* c expla9 ! fact t ! mo/ skilful dragoman _c und]/& a map1 nor guide y to y\r de/9ation by geographical directions4 ,on unkn[n gr\nd a ,syrian is ( little use z guide4 ,on "o occasion "s ( u set out on a j\rney ( five or six miles 9 ,hauran "u ! guidance ( an excell5t lad :o />t$ ) ! air ( a ,napoleon ,bonap>te4 ,8 directions 7 to g /raight f ,muz]ib to ,%eikh ,misk9--two /ations on ! railway s\? ( ,damascus1 betwe5 :i* ! railway l9e runs 9 a wide curve4 ,our r\te 0 ! b[-/r+1 :ile ! l9e 0 ! b5t b[4 ,= a little way he boldly m>*$ =w>d1 b soon began to edge t[>ds ! rails1 & f9ally lo/ 8 head altoge!r1 cross$ ! l9e1 & set out on a r\te ^: only app>5t de/9ation 0 ,p]sia6 ,?is 0 too mu* = u1 & we mut9i$ & rev]s$ ! direction1 arriv+ at ,%eikh ,misk9 9 less ?an an h\r1 ) our guide "u a cl\d4 ,!re c\ld n h be5 a bett] illu/ration ( a ,syrian's helplessness on gr\nd )\t famili> l&m>ks4 ,he f9ds 8 way p>tly by a nomad in/9ct1 v difficult to acc\nt =2 p>tly by ! habit ( notic+ m9ute features ( ! road :i* entirely escape ! ord9>y obs]v]4 ,a /ory is told ( a ?ief 9 a c]ta9 t[n 9 ,pale/9e :o ent]$ a h\se & /ole no?+4 ,he simply w5t out & claim$ ! h\se be=e ! judge4 ,:5 ! case came to trial1 ! ?ief *all5g$ ! own] to tell h[ _m /eps 7 9 ! /air1 h[ _m panes ( glass 9 ! w9d[s & a long catalogue ( o!r su* ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,hills ,,r\nd ,,naz>e?1 ,,f ,,! ,,pla9 ,,( ,,esdraelon4 ,! village ( ,naz>e? %[s out :ite 9 ! dip betwe5 ! hills4 details4 ,?is ! own] c\ld n d1 & :5 ! ?ief gave ! numb]s correctly1 ! h\se 0 at once giv5 to him z its obvi\s possessor4 ,! tale at once recalls ! ,arab ( our *ildhood :o describ$ ! r\te ( ! /ray$ camel4 ,! ,syrian "* is no?+ if n complex1 a mass ( p>adox ^: contradictory elem5ts x seems hopeless to attempt to reconcile4 ,! polite/ & ! mo/ ruffianly ( m51 ! mo/ effusively frank & ! mo/ imp5etrably w>y1 ! mo/ sil5t & ! mo/ voluble1 ! gaye/ 9 laught] & ! mo/ melan*oly 9 song1 is ! ,syrian4 ,he w bully y s long z he has ! majority1 & he w beg = ! privilege ( ty+ y\r %oe's lat*et if ! majority is ) y4 ,he w r[ a boat or drive a donkey "u a noonday sun ) a viol5ce :i* ?reat5s apoplexy2 he w sudd5ly subside into a repose :i* no surr\nd+ bu/le c di/urb4 ,! capta9 ( ! ,rob ,roy tells h[ 9 ! ,huleh region a native boy runn+ alongside po9t$ 8 long gun at him at lea/ tw5ty times ) ! cry ( bakh%i%1 s close t he once knock$ ! b>rel aside ) 8 paddle2 & yet 9 ! t5t t ev5+ ?is same y\ng/] 80 my greate/ fav\rite f 8 lively laugh & eyes l diamonds1 & 8 quick p]ception ( all ,i expla9$40 ,9 a note on page #ci an adv5ture ( our own is told :i* illu/rates suffici5tly ! rapidity ( *ange 9 ! mood ( ! native4 ,he is a civilis$ b>b>ian1 a scrupul\s fraud1 an ag$ little *ild4 ,no d\bt s complex a "* is traceable to _m causes1 b 9 ! ma9 x is ! "w ( ! des]t4 ,!re ! extreme conditions--! long hung] & ! occasional surfeit1 ! great sil5ce & ! %rill spee* 9 :i* t sil5ce unburd5s itself1 ! dem& = desp]ate ex]tion & ! long deep re/--^! call =? ! mo/ opposite qualities1 ea* 9 exagg]at$ degree4 ,p]haps ! mo/ important contributions ( ! des]t to ! ,syrian "* h be5 two4 ,!re is a c]ta9 h>d9ess & /r5u\s c>elessness ( com=t1 :i* produces a r bleak impression on ,european travell]s1 b :i* nev]!less has c\nt$ = a great deal 9 national life4 ,x has told 9 opposite ways4 ,judea's success has be5 und\bt$ly due to ! fact t x _h to be f\ght = aga9/ su* bitt] odds4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ?is same indep5d5ce ( fate has l$ ! nation to settle d[n 9 a too easy cont5tm5t4 ,defeat1 & ev5 oppression1 sit m lightly on p :o are indiff]5t to circum/ances2 & if ! artificial dem&s = luxury h be5 ! ru9 ( "s nations1 !y h be5 ! sav+ ( o!rs1 keep+ alive 9 !m _! vig\r & :ett+ _! ambition4 ,! o!r contribution is ! in/9ctive k9dl9ess & hospitality :i* are well kn[n z *>act]i/ic ( ! des]t tribes4 ,:]e life is s prec>i\s1 x inevitably comes to be reg>d$ z an inviolable tru/ by ! man on ^: m]cy x is ca/4 ,accord+ly ! w&]+ ,arab has b to draw 9 ! s& a circle r\nd 8 lad5 camel 9 ord] to secure e scrap ( 8 possessions f robb]y2 & ! bitt]e/ enemies are sure ( safety s long z !y abide 9 ea* o!r's t5ts4 ,a little incid5t :i* occurr$ to ourselves br\ght home to u vividly ! real k9dl9ess ( ! ,ea/]n s5se ( gue/-"r4 ,x 0 9 ,damascus1 & aft] nightfall4 ,"s ( u1 wi%+ to see h[ ! city amus$ itself1 set out = a ramble ?r\gh ! /reets4 ,x 0 only n9e o'clock1 yet ev]y?+ 0 %ut up & ! baza>s & ?or\ghf>es sil5t & des]t$4 ,at la/ we f\nd a little caf /ill do+ bus9ess at ! end ( ! high black vault ( a baza>4 ,seats 7 plac$ 9 ! op5 air 9 front ( x1 :ile f )9 came ! rattle ( dice & ! voices ( "o or two gambl]s4 ,sitt+ d[n on ! outside b5*1 we ask$ = c(fee1 :i* 0 imm$iately br\ght4 ,a /yli%ly dress$ ,moslem1 9 an indescribable fl[ ( robes1 took 8 seat sil5tly opposite u & sat smok+ 8 n>gileh4 ,:5 we rose to g we f\nd t he _h paid = u all1 & :5 we w\ld h ?ank$ him he w\ld h none ( x1 satisfi$ ) ! consci\sness ( hav+ %ewn hospitality to /rang]s soj\rn+ 9 8 l&4 ,we c\ld n help wond]+ h[ long our fri5d might h cont9u$ mak+ ! circuit ( ,london re/aurants be=e a simil> exp]i5ce w\ld h fall5 8 way6 ,!re is a tale ( a sc\ndrel :o acts z guide to ,engli% travell]s1 & pres5ts to ea* ( !m a c]tificate f a =m] victim1 :i* inv>iably makes !m laugh4 ,! writ+ is1 8,i 0 a /rang] & ye took me 940 ,x 0 pleas+ to f9d t ?is te/imony ne$ n always be ironical4 ,,extract ,,f ,,j\rnal ,"o ( ! horses _h be5 /ol5 9 ! night4 ,x 0 ! la/ on ! l9e1 & beyond x ,h>un 0 sleep+ on ! gr\nd4 ,at #aa4cj all 0 "r1 b by #ab4cj x _h disappe>$4 ,by #a ,a4,m4 ! village _h be5 r\s$1 & ! head m5 7 com+ 9 to ! camp (f]+ u "o ( _! m>es 9 comp5sation4 ,! m>es1 :i* 7 wret*$ skeletons ( bea/s1 7 refus$1 & ! horse dem&$4 ,no?+ c\ld p]suade !m to br+ him back1 or to ackn[l$ge any cognisance ( him :atev]4 ,!y said t pass+ robb]s _h tak5 him1 & begg$ u n to report ! affair4 ,our dragoman1 h[ev]1 took ano!r view4 ,he wrote a lett]1 long & circum/antial1 describ+ u z 8,hawajas0 7m]*ants1 g5tlem571 travell+ = in=mation "u tesc]a f ! ,sultan4 ,! t\* ( g5ius 9 ! lett] 0 its insi/5ce ^u ! s]i\sness ( ?is affair on ! gr\nd t we 7 travell+ "u ?ree flags1 ! ,union ,jack1 ! ,turki% flag1 & ! ,/>s & ,/ripes4 ,?is lett] 0 s5t1 by "o ( our m5 on horseback1 to ! ,kaimakham1 gov]nor ( ! di/rict1 at a place "s di/ance f :]e we 74 ,! ,kaimakham pass$ him on to ! ,mudir at ano!r village1 a p]son ( t]rible reputation1 ( :om ev]ybody 9 ! neighb\rhood 0 afraid4 ,! up%ot ( x all 0 t ,mohamm$1 ! mess5g]1 return$ to camp accompani$ by two soldi]s1 p[]ful & intellig5t "y fell[s1 b savage-look+ & r ragg$4 ,! tall] ( ! two1 nam$ ,nimr 7! leop>d71 0 arm$ ) bayonet1 rifle1 & revolv]1 :ile a d\ble belt ( c>tridges add$ to ! effect4 ,8 ord]s 7 to take ! ?irte5 lead+ m5 ( ,banias 9 irons1 & m>* !m (f 8%\ld]-tight0 to prison at ,mejdel4 ,dur+ ! day a great meet+ 0 held 9 ! dragoman's t5t1 ! soldi]s on "o side1 ! 8lead+ m50 on ! o!r4 ,"o ( ! latt] prote/$ t ?is 0 unfair--!y _h expect$ ! dragoman to gr[ cool]1 b al?\gh he _h be5 hot at fir/1 he 0 gett+ hott] in/ead ( cool]4 ,! reply 0--7may x be =giv567--t he _h meant to get cool]1 b ! ,hawajas 7 gett+ hott] /eadily1 ow+ to ! ?ree flags a=esaid4 ,aft] a long p>ley x 0 arrang$ t !y %\ld s5d to ano!r village = a horse wor? #bj1 ! value ( ! /ol5 "o4 ,!y /\tly ma9ta9$ t a /rang]1 & none ( !mselves1 _h committ$ ! robb]y1 & t x 0 a bitt] day :5 ! ,hawajas _h pit*$ _! t5ts among !m4 ,nimr ! soldi] sat fr[n+ & beat+ ! gr\nd savagely ) a /ick betwe5 8 wide op5 legs4 ,he repeat$ sev]al times1 ) gu/o1 ! aphorism1 8,bett] to t\* fire & scorpions ?an ! prop]ty ( ,hawajas10 to :i* ! rueful answ] ( ! ,%eikh 0 t x w\ld be bett]6 ,all 0 gloom1 & :5 at la/ a mess5g] 0 s5t (f to procure a horse wor? #bj1 ! gr&ees w5t to _! h\ses ) ! air ( m5 doom$4 ,next morn+ ! horse 0 br\ght1 & 0 to be se5 at ! end ( ! l9e kick+ & bit+ vici\sly4 ,its wor? 0 only #ae1 b ! balance 0 condon$4 ,we expect$ t ?is w\ld draw =? gratitude & ev5 "s gladness2 b in/ead x br\ght !m all to te>s1 & drew f !m _m assurances ( ! mis]able pov]ty ( _! condition1 & ! inevitable ru9 t await$ !m if we actually accept$ ?is horse :i* !y _h br\ght4 ,to ^! plead+s ! dragoman 0 deaf1 insi/+ t we mu/ n[ at lea/ let ?+s take _! c\rse4 ,:5 !y saw t ?is 0 ! f9al position ( affairs1 !y ceas$ f wail+4 ,)9 five m9utes our own orig9al horse 0 l$ into ! camp1 & _! new "o remov$6 ,_! game _h be5 play$ to its v la/ turn1 & hav+ fail$ 0 laid aside4 ,dur+ ! re/ ( our soj\rn !re ^! same m5 l+]$ 9 ! camp1 manife/+ nei!r regret nor %ame1 b smok+1 *att+1 & laugh+ ) our company 9 ! highe/ possible good-hum\r4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,! ,,lie ,,( ,,! ,,l& ,e writ] ab\t ,pale/9e speaks ( ! smallness & conc5tration ( ! l&1 yet ^! take ! be/ in=m$ by surprise4 ,x is 8! lea/ ( all l&s0 inde$1 :5 "o ?9ks h[ mu* has happ5$ 9 x4 ,leav+ ,jaffa at #aj ,a4,m41 ! /eam] rea*es ,beyr\t at #f ,p4,m4 ,! pass5g]s 9 t %ort sail h se5 ! :ole ( ,pale/9e4 ,national life !re is a m9iature r ?an a picture4 ,9 a /ret* ( c\ntry equal to t betwe5 ,ab]de5 & ,dundee y cov] ! :ole c5tral gr\nd ( ! ,bible1 f ! ,sea ( ,galilee to ,j]usalem4 ,9 a ride equal to ! di/ance f ,london to ,w9dsor !re may be se5 en\gh to int]pret _m c5turies ( ! _w's supreme hi/ory4 ,! ,dead ,sea is b #ej miles f ! ,m$it]ranean1 ! ,sea ( ,galilee ab\t #be miles2 :ile ! di/ance 9 miles betwe5 ! two seas is only #ee4 ,yet 9 t little l& !re is e k9d ( soil1 f m]e s& & brok5 lime/one to ri* r$ & *ocolate loam4 ,x is a m\nta9\s c\ntry ?r\gh\t1 & its inhabitants are a race ( ,highl&]s4 ,s num]\s are its m\nta9 spurs t y may pass up & d[n ! c5tre ( ! c\ntry = scores ( miles1 & yet nev] cat* sight ( ! sea1 ?\gh y con/antly feel x 9 ! breeze4 ,ev]y?+ is !re--! gorge1 ! wide sweep+ valley1 ! great pla91 ! roll+ tablel&4 ,x is1 inde$1 a l& 9 m9iature1 ! multum 9 p>vo ( l&s4 ,its hi/ory & religion1 l its natural features1 are cru%$ toge!r & compact4 ,! epigram is ! only =m ( spee* t c express x4 ,?is idea ( smallness & compression1 h[ev]1 is by no means ! only possible view :i* may be tak54 ,all dep5ds on :at x is ) :i* "o comp>es ,pale/9e4 ,?9k+ ( x z a field ( hi/ory1 "o inevitably has o!r fields 9 m9d4 ,if we ?9k ( ,brita91 ,pale/9e is b ! size ( ,wales2 if ( ,france & ,g]many1 x is ! equival5t ( ,alsace4 ,b a m primitive po9t ( view is ga9$ :5 y reg>d x z a reclaim$ tract ( ! des]t4 ,j z ,egypt is a huge riv]-mead[1 & ,v5ice a glorifi$ h>b\r 9 ! sea1 s ,syria is ! l>ge/ oasis 9 ! _w4 ,its :ole geographical "* is t ( des]t1 m or less modifi$ by wat]4 ,! sculptur$ hills are "h1 ! rock & ! %+le & ! s&4 ,dry up its riv]s & arre/ its ra9fall1 & y w h a cont9uation ( ! p59sula ( ,s9ai1 except t in/ead ( granite x w be ( lime/one4 ,x is ?is1 z we h se51 t has l$ its inhabitants to reg>d x ) a r>e appreciation1 an extraord9>y s5se ( its preci\sness1 & a t5d5cy to exagg]ate bo? its beauty & its f]tility4 ,no?+ illu/rates ?is lov+ appreciation ( _! l& bett] ?an ! play ( imag9ation :i* has creat$ ! place-names ( ,pale/9e4 ,hebrews1 ,arabs1 & ,crusad]s vie ) ea* o!r 9 ! poetic beauty ( _! nom5clature4 ,x is a little l&1 b !re is mu* wit*]y 9 x4 ,= its inhabitants x lives p]sonifi$1 & its masses ( m\nta9 sc5]y are (t5 nam$ f p>ts ( ! human body4 ,!re are 8! %\ld]10 8! side10 8! ?igh10 8! rib10 8! back40 ,! 8head0 ( ,pisgah looks d[n ^u ! 8face0 ( ! wild]ness4#e ,!re is a 8holl[ he>?0--homelie/ ( names to a ,semite4 ,9 o!r names poetry has rea*$ its utmo/ ( epigrammatic beauty--8! dance ( ! :irls10 8! /> ( ! w9d10 8! diamond ( ! des]t40 ,yet sacr$ & beautiful z its sc5]y 0 to ,israel1 %e _h a de>] bond ) h] l& ?an t4 ,%e 0 kept f nature-wor%ip by a spiritual fai? :i* creat$ su* names z 8,be!l0 7! h\se ( ,god71 & _m o!rs ( simil> significance4 ,^! claim ! l& 9 all its l5g? & bread? = ! ,god ( ,israel4 ,e gre5 spot 0 = ! ,semites ! dwell+-place ( "s div9ity2 ?is :ole oasis ( h]s 0 = ,israel ! h\se ( h] ,god ( peace & bless+4 ,to ! anci5t ,greek 8,god 0 ! view02 to ! ,hebrew1 ,god 0 ! inhabitant ( ! view--,he ,himself 0 ,righte\sness4 ,& because ! l& 0 ,8--rescu$ by ,him f ! des]t ) ,8 wat]s1 & giv5 to ! p 9 ,8 love--x 0 t5fold m de> to !m4 ,d[n e vi/a :i* %ew$ !m a l& t 0 v f> (f1 _! eyes caught sight also ( "s vision ( ! ,k+ 9 ,8 beauty2 e high hill 0 a v]itable m\nta9 ( ! ,"l's h\se4 ,let u try to get1 z x 71 a bird's-eye view ( ?is fasc9at+ c\ntry1 notic+ 9 _! "r p]spective & significance its out/&+ natural features4 ,dr4 ,smi?'s ,hi/orical ,geography has p]haps r5d]$ no s]vice high] ?an ! aid t[>ds ?is :i* is af=d$ by its epitome & map 7pp4 #di1 #ej1 #ea74 ,^! divide ,pale/9e into five p>allel /rips runn+ nor? & s\?4 ,cutt+ across ^! /rips 9 a /raight l9e we/w>ds f ! des]t to ! sea1 we fir/ trav]se ! range ( ! ea/]n m\nta9s2 !n dip to ! imm5se gulf ( ! ,jordan valley1 f> bel[ ! ,m$it]ranean level2 !n climb by precipit\s asc5ts to ! summit ( ! c5tral range2 !n desc5d ?r\gh ! foot-hills2 & f9ally l& on ! m>itime pla94 ,to grasp ?or\ghly ! lie ( ^! five longitud9al regions is ! fir/ necessity = und]/&+ ! geography ( ,pale/9e4 ,its g5]al impression is "o ( extraord9>y brok5ness ( cont\r1 & ,zangwill po9ts out ! important fact t a l& ) s mu* hill surface has 9 reality a v mu* l>g] sup]ficial area ?an t e/imat$ by multiply+ its l5g? by its bread?4 ,by f> ! mo/ rem>kable feature 9 ! :ole ,illu/ration3 ,,j]usalem--,,! ,,pool ,,( ,,hezekiah4 t]ritory is ! ,jordan valley4 ,ris+ f spr+s at ! we/]n roots ( ,h]mon1 high above sea level1 x s9ks by rapid /ages till at ! ,dead ,sea x rea*es bottom ne>ly #acjj feet bel[ ! ,m$it]ranean4 ,d[n its extraord9>y gully fl[s ! "o great riv] ( ,pale/9e4 ,!re are o!r p]5nial /reams1 b none to comp>e ) ,jordan ei!r = volume or = associations4 ,x is ?is mass ( fl[+ wat] :i* /&s z ! he>t & s\l ( ! ,syrian oasis4 ,its mighty /ream has ov]come ! des]t1 & claim$ ! we/]n l& = gre5ness & = life4 ,x is ?is huge cleft t has isolat$ ! ,holy ,l& = ! purposes ( its ,god4 ,! only cle> op5+ f ! ,jordan to ! ,m$it]ranean is ! ,pla9 ( ,esdraelon4 ,/&+ on ,jordan's bank bel[ ,be?%an & look+ we/w>d1 y see be=e y a valley ^: f>!r end %[s no?+ b sky4 ,_m /reams cut _! way d[n its slopes beside a gre5 morass1 & hold 9 _! embrace ! ru9s ( a /rong city4 ,y mu/ foll[ !m up we/w>ds = "s t5 miles be=e y rea* sea level1 & soon aft] t y cross ! wat]%$ 9 a wide valley ) m\nta9s ris+ to nor? & s\?4 ,jezreel /&s above y on a protrud+ tongue ( high cultivat$ l& to ! s\?4 ,at a level ( ab\t #bjj feet above ! sea1 y sudd5ly em]ge ^u a great triangul> pla91 ) ,c>mel at its apex1 #ae miles to ! we/4 ,?is is ! ,pla9 ( ,esdraelon4 ,! "o really l>ge level space 9 ,syria1 its ri* soil1 ev5 surface1 & pl5tiful wat]-supply make x a fam\s piece ( cultivat$ gr\nd4 ,b x is also ! natural battlefield ( ! ,ea/1 & its *ief associations are n ) agriculture b ) w>4 ,esdraelon1 h[ev]1 is b an incid5t 9 ! geographical fact ( ,syria1 ?\gh an important & l>ge incid5t4 ,x is b ! l>ge/ ( ^? op5 spaces into :i* ,syrian valleys swell out4 ,!re are ?ree or f\r ( !m 9 ! ,jordan valley1 & sev]al ( small] size are scatt]$ "h & !re ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry4 ,! really ess5tial feature ( ! l&--t1 inde$1 :i* hi/orically is ! l&--is ! m\nta9 range t sweeps f ,lebanon to ,hebron & beyond4 ,x 0 on ! m\nta9s t ,israel liv$4 ,! ,pla9 ( ,esdraelon1 be+ ! ganglion ( ! natural ma9 r\tes ( traffic & ( w>1 0 b a d\btful possession1 prec>i\sly held at be/1 & (t5 *ang+ own]s4 ,! /rong city ( ,be?%an at ! ea/]n m\? ( its ma9 valley 0 held by ,israel's enemies dur+ almo/ ! :ole ( h] hi/ory2 &1 until a ye> or two ago1 ! ,arabs made ye>ly raids ^u ! ,pla94 ,aga91 ! sea-coa/ 0 l>gely 9 ! h&s ( enemies2 :ile ! ,jordan valley1 ) its insupportable heat & mal>ia1 0 ?9ly peopl$1 & its population swiftly deg5]at$ f national z well z f moral loyalties4 ,?us he :o w\ld "k ! ,holy ,l& mu/1 9 e s5se ( ! words1 8lift up 8 eyes unto ! hills40 ,x 0 our good =tune to h ?is view at its v be/ = our fir/ sight ( ,pale/9e4 ,we %\ld h l&$ at ,jaffa1 b a r d\btful case ( plague at ,alex&ria inflict$ a two days' qu>ant9e on all %ips com+ out ( ,egypt4 ,s we look$ at ,jaffa f "u ! yell[ flag1 & sail$ (f 9 ! morn+ sunlight nor?w>d to ,beyr\t4 ,all day long we lay on deck1 ) maps spread out be=e u4 ,! qu>ant9e _h co/ u ! sight ( ! ,greek ,ea/] c]emony at ,j]usalem1 b x gave u 9 ex*ange ! r>e exp]i5ce ( a daylight sail along ! ,syrian coa/4 ,! day 0 m>vell\sly cle>1 & e object on ! %ore 0 se5 9 photographic outl9e1 :ile ! v>i\s di/ances 7 pres]v$ 9 fad+ col\rs1 back to ! ?9 transp>5cy aga9/ ! sky :i* /ood = ! fur!/ m\nta9 ranges4 ,! %ore 0 b>r53 a l[ belt ( tawny s&1 brok5 by d>k olive-gre5 scrub1 & v desolate4 ,"o solit>y h\se 0 all we saw = ! fir/ two h\rs1 & 9 ano!r place a column ( smoke1 app>5tly ris+ f "s invisible camp4 ,beyond ?is ! foot-hills ea/ ( ! pla9 7 se51 lift+ t[>ds ! great c5tral ridge ( ! m\nta9 range4 ,?\gh brok5 "h & !re by an occasional po9t1 or ov]look$ by a peak t rose v high beyond1 ! cre/ ( ! range 0 rem>kably level1 ) wavy outl9e4 ,until we pass$ ,c>mel x %ew$ z a unity--8! m\nta90 ( ,ephraim & ,judah4 ,nor? f t !re 0 a bold] sky-l9e1 mu* ne>] to ! sea1 :i* l$ on ev5tually to ! magnific5t heights ( ,lebanon1 beautiful z !y are mighty4 ,let u suppose ourselves to l& at ,beyr\t & j\rney f nor? to s\? well inl&4 ,at fir/ we climb ea/w>ds among bold b>e hills1 9 ^: recesses mulb]ry g>d5s ne/le & on ^: heights innum]able villages p]*4 ,c$>s are conspicu\s by _! abs5ce1 b !re are pl5ty ( humbl] trees4 ,soon we come to realise ! l>ge-scale mean+ & cont\r ( ! di/rict4 ,we h be5 cross+ ,lebanon1 ^: highe/ peaks h reveal$ !mselves n[ & !n f> to ! nor?4 ,"s tw5ty miles f ! coa/ we f9d ourselves 9 ! valley ( ! ,litany 7,leontes74 ,?is :ole region is easily und]/ood4 ,x consi/s ( ! magnific5t ranges ( ,lebanon & ,antilebanon & ! spaci\s valley betwe5 !m1 runn+ 9 ample curves p>allel ) ! %ore4 ,mighty ?\gh ^! are1 h[ev]1 x is nei!r ( !m t has receiv$ ! "n ( ,jebel-es-,%eikh--8! patri>* ( m\nta9s40 ,t hon\r is res]v$ = ,h]mon1 ! range & summit :i* ,antilebanon ?ru/s s\? f x into ,galilee1 j opposite ,damascus4 ,x is happily nam$ 8! %eikh40 ,g :]e y w 9 ,pale/9e1 ,h]mon seems to lie at ! end ( "s vi/a or o!r4 ,= _m miles ar\nd x1 ,h]mon comm&s ev]y?+4 ,its mass tilts ! pla9 & s5ds out innum]able spurs ( ri* & f]tile l&2 its sn[ %9es f> & gives "* to ! view2 its ea/]n wat]s r$eem ! wild]ness ?r\gh _m a mile ( ,hauran2 & f its we/]n roots spr+ all ! f\nta9s ( ! ,jordan4 ,?is is ! k+ ( ,syria1 by ^: b5efic5t might ! des]t has become oasis4 ,:ile ! s\!rn cont9uation ( ,h]mon holds up ! high tablel& ( ,ba%an & runs x on into ! m\nta9s ( ,gilead & ,moab ea/ ( ,jordan1 ! ?ru/ ( ,lebanon into ,we/]n ,galilee ends curi\sly 9 a succession ( hills divid$ by valleys runn+ ea/ & we/1 l great waves ( m\nta9 roll+ s\? to break along ! nor!rn edge ( ! ,pla9 ( ,esdraelon4 ,!re is a quiet regul>ity ab\t ^! ,galilean ,highl&s1 :i* gives ! impression ( a region made to plan4 ,! ea/]n end ( ,esdraelon is block$ by ! gr\p ( ,tabor & 8,little ,h]mon10 :ile ! feature ( ! we/]n end is ! long lonely ridge ( ,c>mel4 ,cross+ ! pla9 we ent] ,sam>ia1 ^: deep r\nd$ valleys1 ri* 9 corn1 s5d _! sweep+ curves 9 all directions4 ,"h !re is nei!r ! dom9ant nor?-&-s\? tr5d ( ,lebanon1 nor ! horizontal ripple ( ,galilee1 b an intricate network ( curv+ valleys1 :i* leave ! m\nta9s ev]y:]e m individual & di/9ct1 & :i* frequ5tly exp& into wide mead[s or fields4 ,yet ! g5]al rise ( ! region is f we/1 slop+ up to ea/4 ,! wat]%$ is p]haps #aj to #ae miles f ,jordan1 :ile x is m ?an #cj miles f ! sea4 ,b ,jordan "h is well-nigh #ajjj feet bel[ sea-level1 s t ! ea/]n slope is imm5sely /eep] ?an ! we/]n4 ,z we ent] ,judea1 we f9d ! l&1 z x 71 ga!r+ itself up on almo/ cont9u\s heights4 ,! less] valleys are %all[1 & ! hilltops swell f ! l(ty plateau 9 colossal domes or cupolas4 ,s high is ! g5]al level t :5 we come to ,j]usalem we look 9 va9 = ! m\nta9s we _h und]/ood to be r\nd ab\t h]4 ,no peaks cleave ! sky--only smoo? & g5tle hills1 :i* h nev] be5 9 any way h] def5ce1 b h made excell5t plat=ms = ! siege-eng9es ( h] enemies1 & h gr[n wood = ! crosses ( h] inhabitants4 ,! lat]al gorges ( ,judea1 bo? ea/ & we/1 cut into h] high tablel& 9 angul> zigzags1 & z y desc5d ^! 9 ei!r direction y realise :at is really meant by 8! m\nta9s r\nd ab\t ,j]usalem40 ,%e does n see !m1 ly+ secure ^u ! height to :i* !y h exalt$ h]4 ,b he :o approa*es h] mu/ come by _! gorges1 :]e = _m miles 8 sky w be b a /rip se5 betwe5 %e] heights ( cliff & scaur4#f ,! rugg$ %>pness ( outl9e rea*es its climax on ! ea/]n side1 :]e ! range1 split 9 ! wilde/ gorges1 falls 9 fragm5t>y masses betwe5 _! m\?s d[n to ! ,jordan valley4 ,no?+ 9 ! l& has a m b>e & savage gr&eur ?an ! squ>e-*isell$ m\nta9 blocks ( ,qu>antana1 se5 f bel[ at ,j]i*o 9 black angul> silh\ette aga9/ ! sunset4 ,s\? ( ,j]usalem ! ,kidron gorge1 cleav+ ! intrud+ des]t1 exagg]ates ! wildness ( ! nor?1 b z y climb pa/ ,be?lehem to ,hebron y are 9 a region lik] to ,sam>ia1 ) its deep] & m r\nd$ valleys & its ri*] pa/ure & cultivation4 ,s\? ( ,hebron ! range spreads fanwise & gradually s9ks to ! des]t4 ,! mo/ impressive memories ( ! l&1 s f> z its =m & cont\r g1 are two--! gorges cleft ?r\gh ! ,judean m\nta91 & c]ta9 isolat$ conical hills ?r[n up f ! ,sam>itan valleys4 ,judea is m\nta91 emphasis$ by gorge2 ,sam>ia is valley1 div]sifi$ by hill4 ,! gorges are uncompromis+4 ,:5 we read1 = in/ance1 ! ?ird v]se ( ! sev5? *apt] ( ,jo%ua1 we ?9k ( an ord9>y m>*--8,! m5 w5t up & view$ ,ai4 ,& !y return$ to ,jo%ua1 & said unto him1 ,let n all ! p g up2 b let ab\t two or ?ree ?\s& m5 g up & smite ,ai2 & make n all ! p to lab\r ?i!r40 ,b he :o has himself 8gone up0 f ,j]i*o to ,ai puts feel+ into 8 read+ ( ! words 8to lab\r ?i!r40 ,t is ! only way ( go+ up4 ,! recollection is ( sev]al h\rs ( precipit\s rid+1 ) bea/s /umbl+ & rid]s pit*$ ahead4 ,:5 ! climb is ov] y turn aside to ! s\?1 & view ! gully ( ,mi*ma% along ^: nor!rn edge y h scrambl$ inl&4 ,x looks n l a valley1 b a crack 9 rocks1 hundr$s ( feet deep4 ,! valley ( ,a*or1 next to ! s\? ( ,mi*ma%1 pres5ts an almo/ m dramatic appe>ance z y view its entrance f ! ,jordan foot-hills4 ,x gapes on ! pla91 l ! op5 m\? ( "s petrifi$ mon/]4 ,! isolat$ hills ( ! nor!rn t]ritory are 9 _! way z memorable z ! gorges ( ! s\?4 ,9 ,judea y _c see ! m\nta9s = 8! m\nta940 ,! :ole l& is "o great elevat$ range1 & ! noticeable features ( ! di/rict are ! gorges t cut across x4 ,sam>ia1 on ! o!r h&1 is a place ( valleys & ( pla9s1 & its m\nta9s are se5 z m\nta9s4 ,?is fact f9ds its mo/ /rik+ in/ance 9 c]ta9 8,gilgals10 or isolat$ cones /&+ free 9 ! mid/ ( pla91 or cut (f by circul> valleys r\nd _! bases4 ,! mo/ p]fect ( ^! is t :i* be>s ! "n ( ,gilgal1 ris+ deta*$ 9 ! wide valley to ! s\?-ea/ ( ,jacob's ,well4#g ,x is 9 %ape an almo/ p]fect cone1 ^: gradual curve r5d]s x v easy ( asc5t4 ,! ,hill ( ,sam>ia itself is ano!r su* 8,gilgal10 ! c5tre ( a spl5did circul> panorama ( hills4 ,sanur1 9 ! c\ntry ( ,judi? & ,holoph]nes1 is a ?ird1 on a small] scale1 b ) ev5 wid] panorama4 ,nor? ( ,esdraelon1 aga9 a long ripple ( m\nta9s sweeps r\nd at lea/ "o su* ,gilgal1 leav+ ,sepphoris isolat$ on ! peak ( x4 ,& ,tabor itself might plausibly be c\nt$ 9 ?is class--,tabor ! irrelevant1 ^: cone seems always to be peep+ ov] ! %\ld] ( "s l[] ridge1 unlike any o!r l&m>k1 comm&+ all ! views ea/w>d f ! heights ( ,naz>e?4 ,^! curi\s cones are 9 ,pale/9e to "s ext5t :at ! ,righi is 9 ,switz]l&4 ,) ! exception ( ,tabor1 !y are b less] heights2 yet !y give ! wide/ m\nta9 views1 & seem to %ape ! l& into a succession ( circles1 ( :i* _! summits are ! c5tre-po9ts4 ,! m\nta9s ( ,israel are ! *>act]i/ic features ( h] hi/ory z ( h] geography4 ,9 e "p ( ,syria !y are ! companions ( ! j\rney4 ,great ,illu/ration3 ,,m\nt ,,h]mon1 ,,f ,,! ,,slopes ,,( ,,tabor4 ,! l(ty m\nta9 9 ! extreme di/ance is ,m\nt ,h]mon4 di/ant masses1 or ne> cre/s ( !m1 seem to accompany y z y move4 ,& z y travel ?r\gh ! hi/ory ( ! l& x is 9 ! same companion%ip4 ,! ,jordan valley lies along ! we/]n side ( ! m\nta9 range1 a place ( luxury & temptation4 ,b ,israel abides on ! hills1 s5d+ d[n to x only ! mo/ deg5]ate ( h] *ildr54 ,x is a v /rik+ fact t ,jesus 0 tempt$ to s9 = bread on ! m\nta9 almo/ )9 sight ( ,j]i*o1 :]e ! ,h]odians 7 s9n+ ) surfeits ( w9e & ri* meats4 ,all t is true/ to ,israel & mo/ *>act]i/ic ( h] at h] be/ is on ! hills4 ,!y are ! places ( h] w> & ( h] wor%ip4 ,! ,gilgals h almo/ all /ood siege4 ,all1 or at lea/ ! mo/ ( !m1 h be5 =tifi$4 ,on "s ( !m ! rude rema9s ( anci5t sacr$ circles1 or ! decay$ /eps ( alt>s cut 9 ! rock1 may /ill be trac$4 ,h] enemies f\nd by bitt] exp]i5ce t 8h] gods are gods ( ! hills40 ,h] ark _h its abode on ! tablel& at ,%iloh or on ! hill ( ,zion4 ,its hi/ory on ! l[ gr\nd 0 b a /ory ( calamity2 x _h to be s5t up aga9 to ,kirja?-,je>im among ! hills4 ,yet ! heights ( ,israel /& = m ?an ?is bl5d ( w> & wor%ip2 !y 7 h] home4 ,all h] great] t[ns ne/le among !m some:]e2 mo/ ( !m /& on ! summits1 or j bel[ !m4 ,x 0 a race ( ,highl&]s t gave u our ,bible--m5 ^: home 0 on ! heights4 ,h] w>s1 inde$1 7 ev]y:]e1 = x is a blood-dr5*$ l&4 ,_m ( h] battles 7 f\ght at ! edge ( ! m\nta9-l&1 on ! kopjes t run along ! s\!rn bord] ( ,esdraelon1 or among ! foot-hills ne> ! m\? ( ! we/]n gorges4 ,!re1 or on ! great pla91 %e met h] invad]s4 ,b ! heights 7 ! sc5es ( battles 9 ! la/ resort1 & ! gorges are associat$ ) ! advance & retreat ( arm$ ho/s1 ! ru% ( ! invad] & ! headlong retreat ( armies t _h be5 surpris$ & r\t$ f above4 ,mean:ile1 9 ! middle spaces1 %e f\ght h] cont9u\s battle ) ! des]t & ! sun = h] daily bread4 ,x is said t 9 ,malta1 :]e e possible spot is cultivat$1 ! e>? has be5 all import$1 & t ! ,knights ( ,malta all[$ no vessel to ent] ! h>b\r )\t pay+ dues 9 soil4 ,! d5ud$ hill-sides ( ,pale/9e1 ) _! ru9$ heaps ( /ones t once built up t]races = cultivation1 tell a simil> /ory4 ,on "s hillsides ! rema9s ( sixty or ev5 eighty su* t]races may /ill be trac$4 ,9 _m places ! valleys are ri* 9 an altoge!r sup]flu\s dep? ( f]tile soil4 ,b ?is did n suffice ! inhabitants1 & !y built up ! t]races along ! s\?w>d slopes1 9 _m places q to ! walls ( _! m\nta9 villages4 ,on n a few ( ^! slopes lab\r mu/ h actually creat$ l&1 & m5's he>ts gr[n /rong )9 !m z !y *ang$ ! rocks into g>d5s & ! slopes ( %+le into h>ve/ fields4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,! ,,wat]s ,,( ,,israel ,keep+ 9 m9d our view ( ,pale/9e z an oasis1 we naturally turn at once to ! ?\ght ( ! wat]s t h retriev$ x f ! des]t4 ,by f> ! mo/ conspicu\s ( ^! is ! ,jordan1 fl[+ d[n a long c\rse to its deep-dug grave 9 ! ,dead ,sea4 ,at :atev] po9t we approa* t great valley ! eye is inevitably l$ along x nor?w>d to ! :ite ,h]mon1 ^: great 8brea/plate0 %9es ov] all ! l&4 ,t m\nta91 & ! ,lebanons ( :i* x is ! s\!rn outpo/1 are ! real mak]s ( ,pale/9e4 ,!re 0 a beautiful poetry ( ,h]mon :i* f e>lie/ times made x a sacram5t ( sweet ?\ghts to ,israel4 ,p]haps ! sweete/ ?\ght x gave h] 0 t ( dew4 ,9 e "p ( t l& ( cle> skies1 a heavy dew lies ^u ! gr\nd at sunrise4 ,poetic feel+1 und]tak+ ! "w ( sci5ce1 int]pret$ ?is dew z ,h]mon's gift1 s t 8! dew t desc5d$ on ! m\nta9s ( ,zion0 0 8! dew ( ,h]mon0 7,psalm cxxxiii4 #c74 ,! meteorology is faulty1 b ! l>g] idea is true4 ,! cool & gli/5+ sn[-field1 m ?an a hundr$ miles away f ,zion1 does inde$ s5d out & receive aga9 ! wat]s t refre% ! l& 9 an endless r\nd4 8,! ,abana dies 9 ! m>% ( ,ateibeh1 yield+ its _s to ! sun1 z ,jordan dies 9 ! ,dead ,sea1 &1 ris+ into cl\ds aga91 bo? ( !m waft$ to ! sn[-peaks :]e !y 7 born1 !y p\r d[n _! old wat]s 9 a curr5t ev] new1 9 t circuit ( life & dea? :i* ,god has orda9$ = all40#h ,s conspicu\s are ^! two riv]s t we almo/ ne$ to rem9d ourselves t !y are n ! only wat]s ( ,israel4 ,!re are sev]al p]5nial /reams 9 ,syria1 ( :i* some?+ w be said pres5tly2 b ! li/ ( ^! by no means exhau/s ! /ores ( wat] 9 ! l&4 ,great /ret*es ( ! c\ntry are app>5tly wat]less1 especially 9 ! s\?1 & yet wat] is almo/ ev]y:]e1 und]gr\nd4 ,9 _m p>ts ! soil & surface-rock are s(t1 ly+ on a h>d b$-rock at v>i\s dep?s bel[4 ,accord+ly we f9d t "o ( ! mo/ my/]i\s & *>act]i/ic features ( ! s\? c\ntry is its und]gr\nd wat]s4#i ,spr+s & /reamlets f9d _! way ?r\gh fissures or filt] ?r\gh por\s /one to ! h>d] rock bel[1 & fl[ along subt]ranean *annels !re4 ,zangwill quotes an old] au?ority = ! some:at />tl+ /atem5t t 8! entire pla9 ( ,%>on seems to cov] a va/ subt]ranean riv]1 & ?is inexhau/ible s\rce ( weal? und]lies ! :ole t]ritory ( ! ,phili/9es40 ,putt+ ! e> to any crack 9 ! sunburnt clay ( ! surface1 9 c]ta9 p>ts1 "o may he> ! subdu$ gr[l & murmur ( ! wat]s und]nea?4 ,trees fl\ri% 9 places :]e !re is no wat] app>5t1 _! roots ba?+ 9 unse5 /reams1 & draw+ life & fre%ness f !m4 ,"o c well und]/& ! feel+s ( awe ) :i* primitive p reg>d$ ^! my/]i\s ne!r spr+s4 ,!y did n connect !m ) ! idea ( ra9 f above1 z mod]n sci5ce does1 b believ$ t !y _h =c$ _! way up f 8! ,great ,deep10 :i* 0 suppos$ to und]lie ! e>?1 & into :i* ! roots ( ! m\nta9s 7 ?ru/ f> d[n l gigantic an*ors ( ! _w4 ,"s ( ! riv]s ( ,damascus are also und]gr\nd1 8& may (t5 be se5 & he>d ?r\gh holes 9 ! surface40#aj ,j]usalem is a wat]less city1 ^: fam\s pools are tanks = ra9-wat]4 ,its "o spr+ is t /range int]mitt5t "o :i* ov]fl[s f ! ,well ( ! ,virg9 ?r\gh ,hezekiah's aqu$uct to ! ,pool ( ,siloam4 ,yet !re are leg5ds t b5ea? ! sacr$ rock :i* ! mosque ( ,om> cov]s !re is a subt]ranean torr5t2 & t ! ru%+ ( hidd5 wat]s has be5 he>d at times bel[ ! massive /ones ( ! ,damascus ,gate ( ! city4 ,^! und]gr\nd wat]s h giv5 to ,pale/9e a /ill m int]e/+ feature at ! po9ts :]e h] greate/ riv]s rise4 ,?is is ! sudd5 em]g5ce ( full-bodi$ /reams f ! gr\nd4 ,^! riv]s h1 s to speak1 no infancy4 ,_! spr+s are n little toy f\nta9s ) trickl+ rivulets4 ,!y b\nd into ! _w full-gr[n1 ) a ru% & fury :i* is p]haps unp>allel$ 9 any o!r l&4 ,?is inspir+ & sugge/ive ph5om5on has n be5 )\t its effect on ! national ?\ght & imag9ation4 ,9 ! mid/ ( "o ( ! mo/ glori\sly =ceful passages ( ,isaiah 7*ap4 xxxv47 ! vig\r & impetu\sness ( ! prophecy f9ds its climax 9 ! sudd5 leap ( wat]s :i* 8break out0 9 ! wild]ness1 & :i* are describ$ 9 ! same brea? z ! fir/ glad leap ( ! re/or$ lame man1 leap+ 8z an h>t40 ,:5 ,moses 9 8 bless+ ( ! tribes speaks ( ,dan 8leap+ f ,ba%an10 he ref]s to t wond]ful spot :]e ,jordan1 9 ! tribe ( ,dan1 leaps up f bel[ ,h]mon4 ,mat!w ,arnold1 _h he *anc$ to ?9k ( x1 might h se5 9 8 delight 9 full & ru%+ /reams ano!r l9k connect+ him ) ! ,hebrew race ) :i* he s qua9tly claims aff9ity4 ,! s\? c\ntry keeps its riv]s = ! mo/ "p bel[ gr\nd1 ?\gh ev5 !re consid]able /reams sudd5ly break out4 ,cond] describes deep blue pools ( fre% wat] ne> ,antipatris :i* 8well up close b5ea? ! hillock surr\nd$ by tall canes & will[s1 ru%es & grass40#aa ,yet ! greate/ outbur/s are 9 ! nor?4 ,"o travell] describes a riv]-s\rce 9 ,lebanon z an abyss ( see?+ black wat]s1 into :i* he roll$ l>ge /ones1 only to see !m pres5tly reappe>1 flung up l corks f ! dep?s4 ,at "o ( its s\rces ! ,abana bur/s f ! masonry ( "s anci5t temples 8a pure & copi\s riv]1 ru%+ into light at once z if free40 ,x is at ,h]mon t we f9d ! true c5tre ( ! wat] supply ( ,pale/9e4 ,p>ts ( x are "u sn[ all ! ye> r\nd1 & x gives (f "s ?irty /reams fl[+ 9 e direction4 ,n "o ( ^! /reams rea*es ! ,m$it]ranean4 ,!y fl[ =? only to evaporate soon] or lat] 9 "s inl& morass or sea1 & to return 9 vap\r t w be cond5s$ aga9 by ! sn[s ( ,h]mon4 ,cond] describes "o ( ^! 9 ! nor?1 ^: wat] 8ru%es out sudd5ly ) a ro>+ noise f a cav]n0 9 w9t]1 & trans=ms ! pla9 bel[ into a lake4 ,b ! great "w ( ,h]mon is ! ,jordan1 two ( ^: ?ree s\rces leap up f its roots4 ,! mo/ /rik+ ( ^! is t ( ,banias1 :i* ,jewi% tradition names z "o ( ! ?ree spr+s ( ,pale/9e :i* 8rema9$ n clos$ up aft] ! ,flood40 ,on ! cre/ ( a spur ( ,h]mon /&s ! ru9$ ca/le ( ,subeibeh1 "o ( ! noble/ ru9s 9 ! _w4 ,f ! ca/le y desc5d #adjj feet to ! village ( ,banias1 ! anci5t ,caes>ea ,philippi4 ,! desc5t1 ov] basalt b\ld]s ^: int]/ices are fill$ = ! mo/ "p ) ?orn-bu%es1 is said 9 ! guide-books to be practicable = horses4 ,"o wond]s h[ long ! horses are suppos$ to survive ! j\rney6 ,! view across & d[n ! ,jordan valley is indescribably gr&4 ,ne> ! foot ! pa? curves r\nd ! top ( a precipice & d\bles back on a l[] level to a :ite-wa%$ ,mohamm$an weli1 or pray+-h\se4 ,j bel[1 z y look d[n f ! weli1 a l>ge cav]n is se51 ) ni*es beautifully c>v$ 9 ! rocks beside x4 ,on "o ( ^! ni*es is ! inscription 8,to ,pan & ! ,nymphs10 & on ano!r ! names 8,augu/us & ,augu/9a40 ,"h1 mo/ likely on ! site ( a prehi/oric holy place ( ! ,semites1 /ood ! ,roman temple :i* ,h]od built 9 hon\r ( ,augu/us4 ,nor is x wond]ful t ^! & s _m o!r fai?s h c\nt$ ?is a sacr$ place2 = ,jordan us$ to p\r =? f t cav]n1 cle> & full-bodi$4 ,n[ ! old cave-*annel is *ok$ up ) debris1 & ,jordan =ces its way to light 9 _m small] f\nta9s among ! /ones & e>? ( ! op5 space bel[1 :i* is col\r$ by long trails ( slime4 ,)9 a few y>ds ! /reams unite 9 a ri* gre5 pool1 ) re$s & luxuriant wat]-gr[?4 ,! second s\rce ( ,jordan is ev5 m impressive4 ,x is at ,tell-el-,kadi1 "s two miles we/ f ,banias4 ,on ! we/]n side ( ?is ,tell1 on :i* !re are traces & ru9s ( an anci5t city1 !re is a ?icket ( rank und]gr[?1 f b5ea? ^: l[e/ bran*es & creep]s ! riv] sudd5ly appe>s1 spreads imm$iately into a wide pool1 & )9 a hundr$ y>ds is rac+ viol5tly s\? 9 foam+ rapids4 ,! pool 0 report$ to be bottomless1 b ! irrepressible little canoe ,rob ,roy 0 laun*$ ^u its boil+ wat]s1 & ! dep? prov$ to be b five feet6 ,jordan is a riv] wor? mu* /udy1 int]e/+ f ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,gold51 ,,or ,,beautiful1 ,,gate1 ,,f ,,! ,,g>d5 ,,( ,,ge?semane4 ,! well is 9 ! upp] "p ( ! ,g>d5 ( ,ge?semane4 e po9t ( view--geographical1 hi/orical1 religi\s4#ab ,*ang+ 9 col\r1 z ! floods wa% d[n _! v>i\s soils to x1 x tumbles & ru%es s\? ?r\gh a /ret* ( "s #acg miles )\t a s+le cascade till x sweeps1 ) /rong & level curr5t1 into ! ,dead ,sea4 ,at ,banias its height above ! ,m$it]ranean is ab\t #ajjj feet1 b ! extraord9>y valley is *isell$ on a runn+ slope d[n to ! dep?s ( ! e>?4 ,cl\ds h be5 se5 sweep+ above its b$ #ejj feet bel[ ! level ( ! ocean4 ,! ,dead ,sea level is #abij feet bel[ ! ,m$it]ranean2 its bottom1 at ! deepe/ "p1 is z deep aga94 ,spann$ by a few bridges1 ( :i* only "o or two are n[ entire1 ! riv]'s c\rse is = ! mo/ "p ?r\gh solitudes )\t inhabitants1 or t5ant$ b by a few half-savage p4 ,! valley is alt]nately wide & n>r[1 swell+ out 9 five broad expanses1 ( :i* ! two nor!rn are lakes1 & ! o!r ?ree are pla9s4 ,f ,banias to ! la/ conflu5ce ( ! diff]5t head-/reams is a di/ance ( "s sev5 miles ?r\gh gre5 l&4 ,soon aft] t po9t ! riv] loses itself 9 a va/ =e/ ( imp5etrable papyrus canes gr[+ 9 %all[ wat]1 f :i* x em]ges 9 a little lake or cle> space half a mile l[]4 ,!n x fl[s1 a solemn & glassy /ream1 = "s ?ree miles & a half d[n a %>p-edg$ lane ^: p]p5dicul> banks are tall papyrus canes1 till x glides sil5tly out1 a hundr$ feet 9 bread?1 into ,lake ,huleh4 ,f ,huleh to ! ,sea ( ,galilee is t5 miles1 along ! great] "p ( :i* ! riv] te>s ?r\gh a n>r[ gorge4 ,em]g+ cle> & broad f ! ,sea ( ,galilee x soon beg9s its innum]able w9d+s4 ,a few /reams fl[ into x p]5nially f ea/ & we/1 & c\ntless torr5ts aft] ra94 ,9 ! nor? x quick5s a poison\s soil into rank vegetation1 & spreads its sup]flu\s wat]s on /eam+ swamps1 full ( mal>ia4 ,opposite ,%e*em its clay is good = m\ld+1 & ! m\nds :i* break ! level are = ! mo/ "p app>5tly ! rema9s ( old brickfields or brass f\ndries4 ,z x desc5ds to ! broade/ ( its pla9s at ,j]i*o ! valley falls into ?ree di/9ct levels4 ,f ! hills a flat expanse ( desolation spreads t[>ds ! riv]1 till x falls 9 /eep banks ( #aej to #bjj feet to ! l[] level ( ! 8tr5*0 d[n :i* ! riv] fl[s 9 flood4 ,f9ally1 9 ! c5tre ( ?is lies ! ord9>y *annel1 at ^: banks ! trees & und]gr[? seem to cr\* & kneel ov] ! sull5 br[n /ream4 ,!re are o!r p]5nial riv]s 9 ,syria1 b _! c\rses are %ort4 ,! ,litany 7,leontes7 rises betwe5 ! ,lebanons a %ort di/ance nor? ( ! highe/ spr+s ( ,jordan4 ,= _m miles ! two fl[ 9 p>allel c\rses1 divid$ only by ! little ridge ( ,jebel-es-,zo>4 ,b be=e ,jordan has pass$ its new spr+s at ,banias1 ! ,litany has swept to ! we/ 9 a %>p "r angle1 to p\r itself into ! ocean nor? ( ,tyre4 ,x is a f9e /ream1 yell[ ) ri* loam1 b its b$ is 9 ! %>p angle ( valleys ^: sides rem9d "o ( ! ,screes ( ,wa/wat]4 ,its desc5t is s rapid t ev5 if !re 7 mead[s 9 ! bottoms ( its gorges1 x w\ld hurry pa/ !m to p\r its treasure ( wat] & ( soil alike into ! ?ankless sea4 ,! ,abana1 ris+ 9 ! same region z ! spr+s ( ! o!r two1 has a c\rse ( only "s fifty miles4 ,ki%on1 :i* wat]s ! ,pla9 ( ,esdraelon1 is c]ta9ly ! mo/ g5]\s 9 ! matt] ( cultivat$ fields1 b x is also ! mo/ trea*]\s4 ,its =ds are nev] c]ta91 = great masses ( s& & mud are %ift$ to & fro 9 ! mo/ unacc\ntable mann]4 ,! re/ ( ! p]5nial riv]s are ei!r tribut>ies ( ! ,jordan1 companions ( ! ,abana 9 its ea/]n c\rse1 or /reams f ,c>mel or ! c5tral m\nta9 range1 ^: %ort c\rse to ! ,m$it]ranean is ( little acc\nt4 ,z we ?9k ( ^! riv]s fl[+ ?r\gh a l& :i* s sorely ne$s _! help1 we _c b feel oppress$ by a s5se ( wa/e t is almo/ tragic4 ,!re is no boat ply+ on any ( !m4 ,mo/ are1 inde$1 f> too rapid = t1 b n ev]y:]e4 ,! guide-book speaks ( a /eam] ply+ on ! l[] rea*es ( ,jordan2 & ! local /ory ( oppression !re--e di/rict has its p>ticul> grievance--is ( two boats t _h be5 br\ght = ! s]vice ( ! mona/]y1 & !n confiscat$ by ,gov]nm5t4 ,! only boats ( any k9d we saw on fre% wat] betwe5 ,hebron & ,damascus 7 two on ! ,sea ( ,galilee1 mann$ by ,syrians 9 r$ j]seys1 on :i* ! magic lett]s 7 inscrib$1 8,,cook40 ,9 ! old days x mu/ h be5 v diff]5t4 ,!re is m5tion ( a f]ry-boat on ! ,jordan 9 #b ,sam4 xix4 #ah1 & 9 ,*ri/'s "t !re mu/ h be5 a consid]able fi%+ fleet on ! lake4 ,! trireme on ! co9s ( ,gad>a rem9ds u ( ,roman vessels :i* sail$ !re = w>like purposes1 & "h & !re y f9d a valley damm$ across its bread? = ! con/ruction ( an artificial lake1 on :i* a nauma*ia or naval fight might add piquancy to ! games4 ,!re is an isl& 9 ! ,dead ,sea itself on :i* :at are suppos$ to be ru9s ( a l&+-/age are /ill visible1 %[+ t long ago ev5 ^! uncanny wat]s 7 n )\t _! sailors4 ,!re us$ to be a wreck$ boat 9 ! ,ateibeh m>% f :i* ?ree m5 _h be5 dr[n$4 ,! wreck ( ano!r boat 0 /ill visible "s ye>s ago "u ! surface ( ,lake ,huleh4 ,^! wrecks are b too tru?fully symbolic ( ! fate ( m5's attempts to utilise ! wat]s ( ,israel4 ,! ,abana1 inde$1 is utilis$4 ,nev] 0 riv] s :olly tak5 possession ( by a city z ,abana by ,damascus4 ,%e fl[s into x--"r into ! he>t ( x--& disappe>s und]gr\nd2 %e is l$ captive into a ?\s& f\nta9s 9 public /reets & ! c\rts ( private h\ses2 %e is s5t 9 a ?\s& little *annels to irrigate ! g>d5s :i* surr\nd x4 ,all ! m pitiful is h] end+ 9 t wild & haunt$ morass ( ,ateibeh1 :]e %e yields up h] wat]s to ! des]t & ! sun4 ,! fate ( ,jordan seems /ill m tragic4 ,9 ! f> nor? 8 wat]s are inde$ utilis$ to "s small ext5t = irrigation1 b = ! va/ly long] "p ( 8 c\rse he does no?+ b flee ?r\gh ! wild]ness to ! bitt] sea 9 ! s\?4 ,dr4 ,ross has /rik+ly summ$ up ,jordan's c>e] 9 ! words3 8,s1 9 a valley :i* is ?ir/+ = wat]1 ! ,jordan ru%es along to an +lori\s end40 ,yet t is only "o aspect ( ! matt]4 ,jordan gave ,israel h] la/ /ory ( ,elijah & h] fir/ ( ,*ri/'s m9i/ry4 ,nei!r association is ( ! k9dly sort :i* a nation's s5tim5t usually ga!rs r\nd its riv]s4 ,!re is1 z x 71 ! glitt] ( fire f ! prophet's dep>ture = ev] l5d+ to ^! br[n wat]s a sort ( une>?ly gr&eur4 ,^? fi]y horses :i* ba!d _! feet "h take ! place ( ! g5tle memories ( g5]ations ( lov]s or little *ildr54 ,yet t is true to ! _s ( ! riv]4 ,to ,israel x /ood = a v =ceful & practical fact4 ,_! fir/ cross+ ( ,jordan began _! national life 9 ,pale/9e & cut !m (f f ! des]t4 ,s1 to ! end1 ! ,jordan /ood = ?is to !m1 & t 0 mu*4 ,jordan creat$ no great city z ,abana creat$ ,damascus2 b x /ream$ d[n ! side ( ! ea/1 fl++1 z x 71 a great arm r\nd ! l&1 claim+ x f ! des]t1 & proclaim+ ?is to be oasis & ! home ( m54 ,disraeli *>act]i/ically writes3 8,all ! great ?+s h be5 done by ! little nations4 ,x is ! ,jordan & ! ,ilyssus t h civilis$ ! mod]n races40 ,& truly x is ! ,jordan t is 9 great "p responsible = ! ,hebrew %>e 9 t civilisation--n by 8 mat]ial gifts1 inde$1 :i* 7 ev] ung5]\sly giv5 & c>elessly ga!r$1 b by 8 s5tim5t ( isolation & alo(ness f ! re/ ( ! ,ea/]n _w1 to :i* we owe mu* t is be/ 9 our inh]itance f ,israel4 ,= ! homeli] uses & g5tl] ?\ghts ( ,israel's wat]s we mu/ turn to ! less] f\nta9s & /reams4 ,!re is1 x is true1 mu* disillusionm5t = ! s5tim5tali/ ev5 "h4 ,rememb]+ ! sweet music 9 :i* !y h be5 sung--! 8,song ( ! ,well0 78,spr+ up1 ,o ,well1 s+ ye unto x607 or ! 8g5tly fl[+ wat]s0 ( ! #bcrd ,psalm--"o expects ! p]fection ( purity & fre%ness4 ,e>ly tradition has pictur$ ! angel ,gabriel meet+ ) ,m>y at ! village spr+ ( ,naz>e?2 nor is t ! only ,syrian f\nta9 by :i* ! foot/eps ( angels h be5 trac$4 ,all ! m try+ is ! reality4 ,hide\sly tattoo$ wom5 squat by ! sweete/ spr+s1 fl+ fil?y g>m5ts into !m1 & beat !m ) /ones till ! /ream fl[s br[n bel[ !m2 or !y toil we>ily a mile or two away f _! villages to fill ! heavy wat]-pots1 bea/s ( burd5 r ?an mo!rs 9 ,israel4 ,( cleanl9ess ! natives h n ! remote/ idea4 ,we us$ to see !m fill+ _! vessels f a /ream :]e our horses 7 be+ wa%$ d[n aft] _! day's ride1 & !y seem$ on pr9ciple to *oose a spot j bel[ t :]e ! horse 0 /&+4 ,(t5 ! wat] seem$ calculat$ to assuage hung] r ?an ?ir/4 ,! natives drank x freely :5 x 0 m]e mud 9 solution2 & ev5 :5 x 0 cle>1 ! glass bottles on ! table sometimes pres5t$ ! appe>ance ( lively & well-/ock$ aqu>iums4 ,our squeami%ness 0 un9telligible ev5 to our camp-s]vants1 :o drank 9 defiance l>ge draughts ( ! wat] we refus$4 ,! l&m>ks ( ! hot j\rney are ! pools :]e "o may ba!1 & ! fir/ sight ( ,eli%a's ,f\nta9 & ! ,well ( ,h>od is refre%+ to rememb] /ill4 ,b "o t\* ( ! bottom mud suffic$ to br+ to ! surface a gas :i* s5t u po/ha/e to our /ores ( qu99e--& yet ! delici\sness ( ! plunge 0 wor? ! risk6 ,! spell ( ! f\nta9s rema9s 9 spite ( all1 & no travell] wond]s t ! anci5t m5 rev]$ !m z sacr$ places4 ,israel exult$ 9 ! =cefulness ( h] l>g] riv]s1 b h>dly knew _! k9dli] res\rces4 ,h] affection 0 kept = ^? wells & /reamlets :i* fl[$ pa/ h] doors & made glad h] cities4 ,x is a l& ( dri$-up torr5t-b$s1 & no riv] made glad any ,city ( ,god except at ! seasons :5 ,god _h fill$ x ) ,8 ra94 ,9 su* a l& a wayside well l ,jacob's c\nts = m ?an our ,we/]n imag9ation c realise4 ,prop]ty 9 wat] 0 an old] in/itution ?an prop]ty 9 l&4 ,^! wayside wells & 8seal$ f\nta9s0 refre%$ m5 f "t immemorial 9 ! v pres5ce ( _! enemies4 ,!y 7 ! *oice/ ri*es ( _! own]s4 ,! j\rney f s\? to nor? leads "o ev] m frequ5tly 9 among su* spr+s1 b _m t[ns ( ! s\? are built at places :]e !re is abundance ( !m4 ,hebron has twelve little f\nta9s2 ,gaza fifte54 ,9 ,sam>ia !y bur/ =? 9 e valley1 & ! vale ( ,nablus is a net-"w ( rivulets1 spr++1 x is said1 f no few] ?an eighty s\rces4 ,9 ,galilee !y are /ill m abundant4 ,at ,khan ,m9yeh1 suppos$ by _m to be ! site ( ! anci5t ,cap]naum1 ! ru9s are mo/ly ^? ( aqu$ucts1 & spr+s break =? & /ream 9 little riv]s ev]y:]e4 ,! beauty & refre%+ coolness ( su* f\nta9s is v great4 ,! dripp+ walls ( ! ,khan ,m9yeh aqu$ucts are cov]$ ) magnific5t bun*es ( maid5hair1 ^: fronds 7 ! broade/ we _h ev] se54 ,! ,well ( ,h>od1 close by ! /ream :]e ,gideon te/$ 8 soldi]s1 is "o ( ! lovelie/ spots imag9able4 ,!re is a little cave1 :]e ! pebbles %9e up blue ?r\gh ! %all[ wat]2 f]ns gr[ 9 its crannies1 & at ! side a cle> spr+1 two feet broad & five in*es deep1 spla%es into ! pool f a recess entirely hidd5 by hang+ maid5hair4 ,nor is ! natural beauty ( ^! spr+s _! only *>m4 ,:5 "o rememb]s ! days ( old ?r\gh :i* !y fl[$1 & ! m5 :o /oop$ to dr9k ( !m s along ago1 all t 0 mo/ sacr$ & mo/ h]oic to "o's *ildhood lives aga91 & speaks to ! he>t4 ,ay6 & to ! consci5ce too2 = ^! 7 ! spr+s t gave to ,bible m5 _! metaphors ( a f\nta9 op5$ = s9 & = uncleanness2 ?is is ! l& 9 :i* x sprang up & f :i* x has fl[$ =? ) cleans+ & refre%m5t = ! :ole e>?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,lake ,,( ,,galilee1 ,,look+ ,,nor? ,,f ,,tib]ias4 ,! road at ! left ( ! picture is ! ma9 road to ! nor? f ,tib]ias4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,br[n ,,villages1 ,,:ite ,,t[ns1 ,,& ,a ,,grey ,,city ,no?+ c\ld bett] illu/rate ! complet5ess ( ! *ange ?r\gh :i* ,israel pass$ :5 %e ex*ang$ a nomadic = a settl$ life ?an ! great importance :i* ! idea ( ! city has 9 ! ,bible4 ,k+lake describes ! ,jordan z 8a b\nd>y betwe5 ! p liv+ "u ro(s & ! t5t$ tribes t w&] on ! f>!r side40 ,! v "n ( 8city10 appli$ to ^! grotesque little hamlets1 %ews h[ s]i\sly !y took !mselves1 & compels an amus$ respect = s mighty a little self-importance1 = a 8,k+0 ( t "t might be comp>$ ) a *airman ( p>i% c\ncil to-day4 ,! idea ( ! city became m & m "p ( ! religion ( ,israel z ,j]usalem rose to religi\s z well z civil importance4 ,to !m ,god 0 a city-dwell]1 & !re is an ea/]n say+ ab\t lonely w&]]s j\rney+ homeless t[>ds ! sunset1 t !y are 8go+ to ,god's gate40 ,! *ang+ hi/ory ( ! l& has pass$ x ?r\gh _m phases1 & no d\bt !re are f> wid] diff]5ces betwe5 ! c5turies 9 respect ( m5's dwell+s ?an 9 respect ( ^? natural features ( ! l& :i* we h be5 /udy+ 9 ! prec$+ pages4 ,?is *apt] w describe pres5t conditions4 ,& yet 9 spite ( *anges ! aspect ( ?+s mu/ be pretty mu* :at x always 04 ,m5 ga!r$ into cities on "s /rongly =tifi$ hill = purposes ( w>1 or ar\nd "s holy place = wor%ip1 or 9 "s f]tile valley = safe agriculture2 & ! sites ?us *os5 are reta9$ = ! mo/ "p4 ,) ! exception ( ! w&]+ t5ts1 :i* are occasionally se5 ?r\gh\t ! l&1 !re is h>dly a solit>y dwell+ 9 ,pale/9e :i* is n a ru94 ,& ! want ( good roads1 toge!r ) ! unc]ta9 gov]nm5t1 seems /ill to keep ! village communities m ap>t ?an !y are 9 mo/ c\ntries4 ,ea* village has a "* & a reputation ( its own1 & *]i%es views reg>d+ its neighb\rs :i* x is n sl[ to imp>t ei!r to !m or to =eign]s4 ,! col\r ( ^! t[n%ips divides !m into ! ?ree classes ( our title4 ,damascus & ,beyr\t are beyond ! scope ( ! pres5t description--,damascus1 ! greye/ city 9 ! _w s f> z age is conc]n$2 & ,beyr\t1 ! ov]-gr[n :ite t[n ^u :i* ! ends ( ! _w are come1 leav+ x little individual "* ( its own4 ,keep+ to ! s\? ( ^!1 we h ! cle>ly m>k$ division1 ) little ov]lapp+4 ,a br[n village may inde$ h a :ite *ur* or mosque gleam+ f its bosom1 & ! walls ( "s t[ns besides ,j]usalem are grey2 yet 9 ! ma9 x is a l& ( br[n villages1 :ite t[ns1 & "o grey city4 99 99 99 99 99 ,! villages are v br[n--8du/-col\r$10 z !y h be5 happily call$4 ,se5 f a di/ance !y g5]ally look invit+1 b x takes ! travell] no long "t to believe t a ne> approa* w c]ta9ly disillusionise him4 ,!y h _m sorts ( *>m 9 ! di/ance4 ,"s ( !m are set up on ! edge ( a hill1 & ^! se5 f bel[ pres5t all ! appe>ance ( =tification1 _! flat ro(s & p]p5dicul> sides giv+ !m an angul> & milit>y aspect4 ,o!rs are surr\nd$ by neatly wall$ & cultivat$ olive-y>ds :i* give ! promise ( a well-condition$ village4 ,9 ! r>e in/ances :]e trees are plant$ among ! dwell+s1 ! flat br[n ro(s seem to ne/le among ! bran*es 9 delightful cont5tm5t & re/fulness4 ,:]e trees are abs5t !re is g5]ally a high cactus h$ge1 s]v+ z an enclos+ wall1 :i* sets ! village 9 a pleasant gre54 ,ev5 ^? hamlets :i* h ab\t !m no gre5 ( any k9d are n un9vit+1 especially if !y are built on a hill-slope4 ,!re is a peculi> =mality & neatness giv5 by irregul> piles ( flat-ro($ build+s ov]lapp+ ea* o!r at diff]5t levels4 ,b z y approa*1 all is disillusionm5t4 ,! trees seem to deta* !mselves & /& ap>t 9 ! untidy pa?s4 ,! cactus h$ge is repulsive1 ) its spik$ pulpy masses & its b>e & /raggl+ roots4 ,! br[n walls seem to decay be=e y\r eyes1 & ! village se5 f )9 its own /reet *anges to a succession ( ru9\s heaps ( dbris1 ) excavations into ! mud ( ! hillside4 ,if1 z at ,na91 !re be a :ite-wall$ *ur* or mosque 9 ! place1 x seems to /& alone 9 a long mora9e ( ru9s4 ,an acrid smell hangs ^u ! air1 = ! fuel is dri$ cakes ( dung4 ,^! are pla/]$ ov] ! walls ( l[ ov5s into :i* ! mud seems to swell 9 great bli/]s by ! /reet-side4 ,9 "s ( ^! ov5s cr[ds ( fil?y *ildr5 & tattoo$ wom5 are sitt+1 :ile ! m5 loit] 9 idle r[s along ! h\se walls4 ,:5 sudd5ly y say to y\rself t ?is is ,%unem1 or ?is ,na91 or ,magdala1 ! disappo9tm5t is complete4 ,9 "s places ! h\ses are built ( /ones ga!r$ f ! anci5t ru9s ( ! neighb\rhood 7,colonel ,cond] believes t 9 h>dly any in/ance are ! /ones fre% qu>ri$74 ,o!r h\ses consi/ simply ( f\r walls ( mud1 ) a ro( ( ! same mat]ial laid ^u bran*es set across4 ,a small /one roll] may be se5 ly+ some:]e on ! ro(1 = 9 heat ! mud cracks & ne$s to be roll$ n[ & !n to keep ! ra9 f leak+ ?r\gh4 ,! %eikh1 or headman ( ! village1 has a bett] h\se--(t5 ! "o respectable habitation 9 ! place1 b sugge/ive ( a ru9$ t[] at t4 ,x is a two-/orey$ build+1 ^: great feature is ! public hall1 or reception-room1 :]e local matt]s are discuss$ & /rang]s int]view$4 ,!re is no glass 9 ! w9d[s1 & ! /rong sunlight deep5s ! gloom ( ! int]iors to a ri* br[n d>kness ) po9ts ( high light & col\r4 ,! %ade is preci\s 9 ^! sun-smitt5 places1 & ,cond] n>rates an incid5t :i* (t5 recurs to m9d 9 !m4 ,x 0 9 ! cave ( ! ,holy ,h\se at ,naz>e?1 ! reput$ home ( ,jesus 9 ,8 boyhood4 ,! visitor 8obs]v$ to ! monk t x 0 d>k = a dwell+-h\se1 b he answ]$ v simply1 #8,! ,"l _h no ne$ ( mu* light4'0 ,! rooms are almo/ b>e ( furniture1 a b$ & a few wat]-j>s 9 a corn] be+ sometimes ! only objects visible4 ,9 "s ( !m ! floor space is divid$ into two levels1 half ! room be+ a plat=m two or ?ree feet high] ?an ! o!r half4 ,on ?is plat=m ! family lives1 :ile ! cattle occupy ! l[] "p2 & along ! edge ( ! plat=m !re are holl[s 9 its floor1 :i* s]ve z mang]s = ! bea/s4 ,no d\bt x 0 9 su* a mang] t ,jesus 0 laid 9 ,be?lehem4 ,! inhabitants ( ^! villages are ! ,fellah91 ( :om ,cond] has giv5 s int]e/+ a description4#ac ,he recognises 9 !m a p ( almo/ unmix$ anci5t /ock4 ,di/9ct f ,b$aw9 & f ,turks1 !y are ! 8mod]n ,canaanites10 probably desc5dants ( ! orig9al inhabitants :om ,israel displac$4 ,^! 7 nev] q ext]m9at$2 & al?\gh !re h no d\bt be5 _m m9or in/ances ( ! absorption ( o!r bre$s1 yet 9 ! ma9 !y rema9 v mu* z !y 7 :5 !y talk$ ) ,jesus 9 ,aramaic1 or ev5 z !y 7 9 days mu* e>li] ?an ,84 ,a slight enri*m5t to _! lives has be5 made by ea* ( ! invad]s1 & rem9isc5ces ( ,israel1 ,rome1 ! e>ly ,*ri/ians1 ! ,crusad]s1 may be f\nd bl5d$ ) _! ,mohamm$anism4 ,b !y are cons]vative to ! la/ degree1 & any radical *ange seems an impossibility among !m4 ,_m ?+s contribute to ?is cons]vatism1 among :i* p]haps ! *ief is ! tradition ( int]m>riage betwe5 ! inhabitants ( ! same village4 ,ano!r factor is _! extraord9>y ignorance1 comb9$ ) a pride no less rem>kable4 ,x w\ld be difficult to f9d any:]e m5 s self-satisfi$ on su* small capital ( m]it4 ,a ?ird cause ( _! immovabl5ess is to be f\nd 9 ! usury & oppression by :i* !y are held d[n2 & ev5 _! local self-gov]nm5t--t imp]ium 9 imp]io :i* prevails "u ! l>g] oppression ( ! ,turk--keeps up1 s f> z x is all[$1 ! ance/ral ways & ?\ghts4 ,9 "o respect ?is cons]vatism ( !irs is a ga9 to ! _w3 x has pres]v$ among !m ^? habits ( spee* & mann] ) :i* ! ,bible has made u all s famili>2 & x is to !m1 ) all _! faults1 t we owe mu* ( ! 8sacram5tal value0 ( ,pale/9e travel4 ,z = _! faults1 no d\bt !y are _m1 b x is n = ! pass+ /rang] to attempt an e/imate ( _! "*4 ,! mo/ obvi\s lapses are s9s ( spee*1 & "o always has ! impression t ! int]pret] is ton+ d[n z he translates4 ,"o c see t prop]ty is insecure1 & life by no means s sacr$ z 9 ! ,we/4 ,"o incid5t br\ght ?is home to u vividly4 ,"s ( our p>ty _h be5 deta9$ on an explor+ excursion till aft] d>k4 ,:5 we ask$ a gr\p ( natives :at c\ld h become ( !m1 ! answ] 0 m significant ?an reassur+1 = !y po9t$ ) _! f+]s v]tically d[nw>ds6 ,x 0 n s bad z t1 h[ev]1 = we soon he>d revolv] %ots1 & answ]$ !m4 ,we fir$ into a field1 aim+ at a l>ge /ack ( corn to prev5t accid5ts4 ,conceive our horror :5 a sil5t figure 9 fl[+ robes rose f ! c5tre ( ! /ack6 ,he 0 sp5d+ ! night !re to keep 8 prop]ty f ?ieves4 ,= ! re/1 x is _! laz9ess t /rikes "o mo/ =cibly4 ,_! agriculture is z leisurely z x is primitive4 ,!y sit :ile reap+1 & ?re% by /&+ ^u bo>ds /udd$ ) fl9ts1 :i* ox5 draw ov] ! ?re%+-floors4 ,_! pl\ghs are b iron-%od /icks :i* scrat* ! surface ( ! field4 ,9 outl&i% di/ricts !y are describ$ z m]e savages1 b we saw little to ju/ify su* a criticism4 ,!y are uncompromis+ly dirty ev]y:]e1 yet _! food is simple1 & !y appe> 9 ! ma9 to be heal?y en\gh4 ,at fir/ "o's impression ( !m is ( univ]sal gloom1 sulky & contemptu\s2 b ! mood soon *anges if y /ay among !m = a little "t1 & ! knit br[s relax to a smil+ *ildi%ness4 99 99 99 99 99 ,( :ite t[ns1 ) a population betwe5 #cjjj & #cejj1 !re are ab\t a doz5 9 ,pale/9e1 ( :i*1 exclud+ ,damascus & ,beyr\t1 ! be/ kn[n are ,haifa & ,acre1 ,tyre & ,sidon1 ,tib]ias1 ,j591 ,nablus1 ,be?lehem1 ,hebron1 ,gaza1 ,jaffa4 ,!y %9e f f> z y approa* !m4 ,"s1 l ,j591 gleam mo/ picturesquely f among palm trees2 o!rs1 l ,naz>e? se5 f ,jezreel1 %ew l />s ( :ite 9 high m\nta9 valleys2 & yet o!rs1 l ,be?%an1 appe> 8l :ite isl&s 9 ! m\? ( an e/u>y40 ,! ne>] view ( ,naz>e?1 :5 ! hill has be5 climb$ & ! t[n sudd5ly reveals itself1 is "o ( r>e beauty4 ,y are look+ d[n into an oval holl[ full ( clean & bright h\ses4 ,_m cypress trees & spread+ figs enri* ! prospect1 & ! :ole picture is mo/ pleas+4 ,be?lehem1 aga91 has a picturesqu5ess t is all its own4 ,approa*+ x f ! s\?1 ! track turns %>ply into a valley ^: end is entirely block$ by a l(ty hill1 cov]$ along its :ole l5g? ) %9+ :ite masonry set f> up aga9/ ! sky4 ,x looks trim & newly f9i%$2 & "o h>dly kn[s :e!r to be delight$ or vex$ t ,be?lehem %\ld be s workmanlike a place4 ,b x is ! sea-coa/ t[ns :i* are ! mo/ *>act]i/ic ( _! class4 ,tyre is a surpris+ly liv+ & wide-awake place /ill1 & ! "n recalls ev] "s vi/a ( blue sea ) %ips se5 ?r\gh ! :ite ar*es or ri* foliage t decorate ! t[n's we/]n front4 ,jaffa is /ill m surpris+4 ,x is usual to emb>k at ,port ,said late 9 ! ev5+1 & :5 y wake 9 ! morn+ & f9d ! /eam] at an*or1 ! fir/ sight ( ,pale/9e t greets y is ,jaffa1 fram$ 9 ! brass circle ( ! port-hole--a v p]fect & brilliant little picture4 ,! t[n is set well up1 a conical ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,f\nta9 ,,( ,,! ,,virg9 ,,at ,,naz>e?4 hill ( sp>kl+ col\r1 back$1 z we fir/ saw x1 by cl\dless ,syrian sky1 into :i* x ran its two m9>ets4 ,x 0 l>g] ?an we _h imag9$1 & mu* l(ti]1 ) a v bold & gaily tilt$ edge-l9e--a city set on its hill1 & ) a mighty consci\sness ( be+ s set1 l ,cov5try ,patmore's old ,engli% cottage4 ,d>k-leav$ trees1 r$ ro(s1 & occasional jewel-l po9ts ( gre51 :]e copp] cupolas h be5 wea!r$1 light up ! picture into "o ( ! mo/ ideal ( its k9d4 ,)91 ! :ite t[ns %ew a /range mixture ( spl5d\r & ( sordidness4 ,! /reets are aggressively irregul>1 & ! :ole impresses "o z at once anci5t & unf9i%$4 ,! wid] spaces are full ( col\r & ( noise1 & ! h\ses :i* surr\nd !m are a pat*work ( all mann] ( build+s1 ) small] /ructures lean+ aga9/ _! sides1 & gaudy awn+s ( ragg$ edge protect+ doorways f ! sun4 ,:]e ! /reet n>r[s1 x is fill$ ) cr[ds ( m51 wom51 & *ildr51 & lad5 donkeys pu%+ !m aside z !y pass along4 ,!re are lanes1 also1 9 deep %ad[1 ) buttresses & long ar*ways conv]t+ !m into high & n>r[ tunnels4 ,! %opkeep]s 9 ^! lanes sit beh9d _! piles ( m]*&ise & conv]se 9 %rill voices ) neighb\rs on ! o!r side1 n six feet away4 ,! :ole appe>ance ( ! t[n is t ( close-huddl$ dwell+s1 :i* h squeez$ !mselves into z little space z possible1 & h be5 =c$ to exp& upw>ds = want ( lat]al room4 ,^! t[ns are ! m+l+-places ( ,syria--crucibles ( its national life1 9 :i* new & composite races are be+ molt54 ,"o or two ( !m1 l ,nablus & ,hebron1 are inhabit$ *iefly by a fanatical ,moslem population1 & 9 ^! life /agnates4 ,b ! o!rs are op5 to ! _w4 ,9 ! pa/1 long be=e ! mod]n /ream ( travell]s came1 ?is process 0 go+ on4 ,9 v e>ly times ! t[ns 7 recruit$ by ! neighb\r+ ,canaanites & ,arabs4 ,!y 71 z !y /ill are1 s insanit>y t if x 7 n = su* additions _! population w\ld soon die out4 ,9 ,*ri/'s "t ! ,greek & ,roman _w p\r$ itself into !m2 !n came ! long tra9 ( ,*ri/ian pilgrims2 aft] t ! ,crusad] ho/s4 ,ea* ( ^!1 & _m o!r incursions1 h help$ to mix ! race ( t[nsfolk4 ,9 ,be?lehem & else:]e !re are _m desc5dants ( ! ,crusad]s1 ^: fair hair & complexion tells its own tale4 ,b ! m+l+ ( races has gone on ) q a new rapidity dur+ ! la/ few decades4 ,trade & travel h comb9$ to =ce ! ,we/ ^u ! ,ea/4 ,circassians1 ,kurds1 ,turks1 ,jews1 ,africans1 ,cypriotes h settl$ !re4 ,travell]s :o h twice visit$ ! l&1 ) an int]val ( "s ye>s betwe5 _! visits1 are /ruck by ! sudd5 & sweep+ *ange4 ,ev5 ! pass+ visitor _c fail to p]ceive x4 ,! villag]s rema9 ap>t1 int]m>ry+ )9 ! village or ) neighb\r+ ,fellah94 ,! t[nspeople br+ _! brides f o!r t[ns1 & sometimes f o!r nations4 ,_m k9ds ( import$ goods are expos$ = sale 9 ! baza>s4 ,!re are p>ts ( ,damascus :]e no?+ is sold t 0 n made 9 ,europe4 ,! habits ( ! ,we/ are also invad+ t[ns4 ,intoxicat+ liquors are freely sold1 & 9 ,naz>e? !re are n[ no few] ?an sev5te5 public-h\ses4 8,p>is fa%ions0--probably belat$--are ou/+ ! anci5t cu/oms4 ,tattoo+ is q out ( fa%ion among ! wom5 ( ! t[ns1 & knives & =ks h p5etrat$ native h\ses ev5 9 ,hebron4 ,! travell] comes into contact ) ! t[nspeople f> less fully ?an ) ! villag]s4 ,9 ! t[ns ev]ybody is m9d+ "s bus9ess or o!r ( 8 own1 & ! /rang] meets ) ! resid5t] m]ely z buy] ) sell]4 ,once only did we see ! int]ior ( a t[n h\se1 & t visit confirm$ ! impression ( a new & composite life v rem>kably4 ,x 0 9 ,tyre4 ,an agreeable native1 :o _h br\ght "s curiosities = sale1 invit$ u to g home ) him & inspect 8 /ock4 ,! h\se 0 9 a n>r[ /reet1 b ! rooms 7 l>ge4 ,8 wife sat ne> ! w9d[ smok+ a n>gileh1 h] eyebr[s pa9t$ black1 & h] face heavily p[d]$ & r\g$4 ,! room 0 cr[d$ ) furniture4 ,!re 7 a s(a & two ,european b$s ) mosquito curta9s2 a new ,engli% w>drobe ( c>v$ walnut1 ) a l>ge mirror2 a kit*5 dress] cov]$ ) d9n] di%es ( ! cu/om>y ,european k9d4 ,dry-goods boxes 7 drawn =? f "u ! b$s & ! s(a1 & pa/ebo>d boxes f draw]s & %elves1 all fill$ ) ! mo/ indescribable m$ley ( curiosities f rifl$ tombs4 ,bracelets1 te>-bottles1 e>-r+s came to light 9 rapid succession4 ,f9ally1 a squ>e foot ( lead-"w appe>$--"p ( a lead5 w9d+-%eet :i* _h rec5tly be5 torn (f an anci5t corpse 9 a s>cophagus--a heavy %r\d1 f9ely ornam5t$ ) deep-m\ld$ g>l&s & figures4 ,our ho/s 7 good-hum\r$ & pleasant p1 :o conduct$ ! conv]sation 9 "s five diff]5t languages1 & appe>$ to comb9e 9 !mselves & _! prop]ties sev]al c5turies ( human life4 99 99 99 99 99 ,! grey city ( ,j]usalem /&s unique among ! t[ns ( ,pale/9e4 ,) ! br[n villages x has no?+ 9 common4 ,! imm5se v>iety ( its build+s1 ) _! domes1 flat t]races1 m9>ets1 & slop+ ro(s1 di/+ui%es x at once f ! rectangul> masses ( ! villages4 ,z if on purpose to emphasise ! contra/1 "o ( ^! villages has set itself "r opposite ! city across a n>r[ valley4 ,look+ f ! s\!rn wall ( ! ,h>am enclosure1 ?is village ( ,siloam is se5 sprawl+ along ! opposite hillside1 a m]e drift ( squ>e hovels se5 across "s fields ( arti*okes4 ,no?+ c\ld appe> m mis]able2 inf]iority is confess$ 9 e l9e ( x4 ,m might be said = ! description ( ,j]usalem z ! l>ge/ ( ! :ite t[ns4 ,x is1 l !m1 a c5tre :]e races m+le2 inde$ x is ! c5tre ( su* m+l+4 ,all roads lead to x f nor?1 s\?1 ea/1 & we/2 & :5 "o sudd5ly comes ^u "o ( ^? old ,roman roads :i* make = ,j]usalem ) su* purposeful & grim directness ov] ! ,judean m\nta9s1 "o realises t ?is has be5 ! c5tre & m+l+-place ( nationalities = _m c5turies4 ,yet on ! spot an obvi\s di/9ction is felt at once4 ,!re are two ,j]usalems3 ! old "o )9 ! walls1 & a new "o spread+ on ! op5 gr\nd to ! we/ & nor?4 ,?is 8new ,levant9e city side by side ) ! old ,ori5tal city0 is q a mod]n place4 ,:5 ,/anley wrote 8 ,s9ai & ,pale/9e x 0 unsafe to inhabit h\ses outside ! walls4 ,n[ su* h\ses are clu/]$ toge!r to ! we/ 9 a city :i* is actually l>g] ?an ! enclos$ "o1 & ^: r[s ( %ops are h>dly di/+ui%able f ^? ( ,we/]n ,europe4 ,a /range m$ley its build+s are6 ,! be/ sites are occupi$ by ! great ,russian ,ca!dral & ,hospice1 :ite-wall$ & lead5-ro($4 ,beyond ^!1 emb$d$ 9 ,jewi% 8colonies10 are ! ,european consulates1 ) a ,syrian ,orphanage & an ,engli% ,agricultural ,settlem5t f>!r up ! slope4 ,! ,tombs ( ! ,k+s lie to ! nor?1 9 all _! desolation1 & ! /ill m desolate ,m\nd ( ,a%es :i* is suppos$ by "s to be a relic ( ,temple sacrifices2 b ^! are next neighb\rs to ! ,dom9ican mona/]y1 ! ,bi%op's h\se1 & ! h\se ( t curi\s body ( ,am]icans kn[n z ! 8,ov]com]s02 :ile on ! hill1 n a mile above !m1 is an ,engli% villa4 ,all ?is & mu* else p\rs itself into ! city & m+les 9 ! /reets ) ! v composite life already dwell+ !re4 ,j at ! foot ( ! hill :i* ,gordon id5tifi$ z ,calv>y1 :ile ,turki% bugles 7 bl[+ f ! =t1 we saw two ,syrians engag$ 9 r\gh horseplay1 a p>ty ( ,am]icans & ,engli% rid+1 "s tonsur$ & c[l$ monks on foot1 & a travell+ %[man ) an ape cl++ to him 9 t]ror ( a torm5t+ cr[d ( ,jews & ,mohamm$ans2 :ile poor wom51 unconsci\s ( any "p 9 s /range a tableau1 7 return+ to ! city ) full wat]pots on _! heads4 ,yet 9 ,j]usalem all ?is makes a diff]5t impression f t ( o!r t[ns4 ,! m+l+ ( races "h is b1 z x 71 ! surface appe>ance ( a f> m wond]ful fact4 ,f ! days ( ,solomon1 ,israel c5tralis$ h] life 9 ,j]usalem4 ,on t hill ! m\nta9l& seems to ga!r itself z 9 a natural c5tre1 typical & repres5tative ( ! :ole4 ,!re ! nation c5tr$ its life also1 9 8! m\nta9 ?rone1 & ! m\nta9 sanctu>y ( ,god40 ,j]oboam's attempt to dec5tralise co/ ! nation de>2 b 9 spite ( t attempt ! c5tralisation took effect1 & made h] ! mo/ composite ( cities f ! fir/4 ,all ends ( ! e>? meet "h z 9 a focus4 ,lad5 camels ( ! ,arameans f ! f> ,ea/ are mak+ = ! city1 & %ips fly+ l a cl\d ( hom+ doves to _! w9d[s are be>+ preci\s freights to h] port4 ,hi/ory & religion are compress$ )9 ! walls4 ,on ! spot no "o c =get ! anci5t geography :i* reg>d$ ,j]usalem z ! c5tre ( ! e>?1 ) ,hell v]tically bel[1 & ! isl& ( ,purgatory its antipodes1 & ,heav5's c5tre ov]head4 ,9 ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re !y %ew a flatt5$ ball 9 a little holl[ place z ! c5tre ( ! _w4 ,z 9 "s o!r cases ( faulty sci5ce1 an imag9ative m9d may discov] "h a happy tru? b5ea? ! error4 ,! composite life ( ,j]usalem )\t ! walls is b ( ye/]day1 t )9 ! walls is ho>y ) age4 ,we h call$ x 8a grey city10 & ev5 9 respect ( col\r ?is is a true "n4 ,n t !re is any "o col\r ( ,j]usalem4 ,9 ! v>y+ lights ( sunrise1 noon1 aft]noon1 & ev5+1 its col\r *anges4 ,at "o "t x hangs1 airy & dreamlike1 ov] ! /eep bank ( ! ,valley ( ,jeho%aphat2 at ano!r "t x seems to sit solid on its rock1 e ro( & battlem5t pick$ out 9 photographic cle>ness2 aga91 9 ! twilight ( ev5+1 all is sombre ) ri* purple %ad[s4 ,!re are spots ( col\r1 too1 :i* break its monoton\s dull hue4 ,! ,mosque ( ,om>1 ) its fa9t metallic gre5i% col\r1 /&s 9 contra/ to ev]y?+1 & makes a backgr\nd ( ! city = its isolat$ beauty4 ,!re is ano!r dome1 t ( ! ,synagogue ( ! ,a%k5azim1 ^: col\r is a lu/r\s blue-gre51 %9+ ov] ! city almo/ lum9\sly4 ,:ite m9>ets & spires are se5 "h & !re1 & a few r$-til$ ro(s h f\nd place )9 ! walls4 ,sev]al spots are s(t5$ by ! foliage ( trees1 & ! pools1 ^: edges are =m$ ( picturesque & irregul> h\se-sides1 cat* & int5sify ! col\rs 9 _! ri* reflections4 ,yet1 9 spite ( all t1 ,j]usalem is grey4 ,! walls are grey ) a t\* ( orange 9 x4 ,! h\ses1 mass$ & huddl$ close )91 are grey ) a t\* ( blue4 ,!y are built r\ghly1 ! /ones divid$ by broad seams ( mort>1 & mo/ ( !m 9 _! humble way con=m to ! fa%ion set by ! ,mosque ( ,om> & ! ,holy ,sepul*re1 & are dom$4 ,b ! domes ( ord9>y h\ses are f> f %apely1 & sugge/ ! fancy t ! scor*+ sun has bli/]$ ! flat ro(s4 ,by f> ! be/ view ( ,j]usalem is t :i* is se5 f ! ,m\nt ( ,olives1 z "o approa*es ! city by ! hill-road f ,be?any4 ,h] environs are ( int]e/ f _m associations--!re1 on ! ,m\nt ( ,(f5ce1 ,solomon (f]$ sacrifices to idols2 yond]1 on ! hill ( ,scopus1 ! ma9 body ( ,titus' troops 0 po/$2 "h1 ne> :]e we /&1 is ! place ( ! agony 9 ,ge?semane4 ,= _m days "o might g r\nd ab\t ! city1 e day ga9+ new k ( its /ory4 ,b :at ! fir/ eye-%ot gives is ?is3 a %>p angle =m$ by ! two valleys ( ,jeho%aphat & ,h9nom2 /eep banks ris+ f _! bottoms to ! walls1 :i* !y ov]lap 9 an irregul> & wavy l9e2 )9 ! walls1 glanc+ back f ! angle :i* !y =m above ! junction ( ! valleys1 ! eye runs up a gradually ris+ expanse ( close-pack$ build+1 :i* is cont9u$ m sp>sely 9 ! long roll+ slope beyond1 to ! ridge ( ,scopus 9 ! nor?1 & to ! di/ant sweep ( long level m\nta9-l9e 9 ! we/4 ,x is z if ! :ole city _h slidd5 d[n & ,illu/ration3 ,,joppa ,,f ,,! ,,sea4 be5 caught by t great angle ( wall j be=e x precipitat$ itself into ! gorges4 ,to see ! grey city rightly1 & feel h[ grey x is1 y mu/ view x across ^! gorges4 ,! m di/ant environs are deta*$ f ! city4 ,!y are cultivat$ 9 pat*es1 & dott$ ) mod]n build+s ( v>i\s degrees ( irrelevance4 ,b ^! are m]e accid5ts1 :i* ! place seems to ignore4 ,! gorges !mselves are "p & p>cel ( ! city1 & !y /& = ! ov]fl[ ( h] sad & desolate _s4 ,_! sides are banks ( rubbi%--! wreckage & dbris ( a score ( sieges1 ! accumulation ( ?ree ?\s& ye>s4 ,y look f ! l[] pool ( ,siloam 9 ! valley ( ,h9nom1 up a long dre>y slope ( d>k grey rubbi%1 d[n :i* a horrible black /ream ( liquid fil? trickles1 ta9t+ ! air ) its /5*4 ,f> (f above y /&s ! wall1 :i* 9 old days enclos$ ! pool4 ,"h ! city seems to h %runk nor?w>ds1 z if 9 "s horror ( consci5ce4 ,! ,field ( ,blood & ! ,hill ( ,evil ,c\nsel are j across ! gorge to ! s\?4 ,! valleys are full ( tombs1 ^? on ! city side = ! mo/ "p ,mohamm$an1 :ile ! l[] slopes ( ,olivet are pav$ ) ! flat tomb/ones ( ,jews4 ,:at a /ret* ( hi/ory unrolls itself to ! imag9ation ( him :o l+]s on ! sight ( ,j]usalem6 ,! b\nd>ies seem to dw9dle1 till t :i* /&s !re is ! old grey battle-beat5 =tress ( ! ,jebusites1 ! la/ po/ held by h] enemies aga9/ ,israel4 ,david conqu]s x1 & ! procession ( prie/s & p br+ up to its gate ! ark1 = ! celebration ( ^: entrance tradition has claim$ ! #bd? ,psalm4 ,a new city rises1 & falls1 & rises aga91 ?r\gh m ?an tw5ty sieges & rebuild+s4 ,assyrians1 ,babylonians1 ,romans1 ,moslems1 ,crusad]s batt] at its gates4 ,! level ( ! /reets rises ?r\gh ! c5turies1 till n[ ! travell] walks on a pavem5t ?irty or =ty feet above ! floor ( ! anci5t city4 ,to discov] ! old f\ndations1 ! explor]s ( our "t h sunk %afts :i* at "s p>ts ( ! wall t\* bottom #abj feet bel[ ! pres5t surface4 ,f> bel[ ! slight] masonry ( ! pres5t wall1 ) its battlem5t$ ,turki% "w1 lie ! huge /ones ( e>ly days1 "s ( :i* be> /ill ! m>ks ( ,phnician masons4#ad ,! gates1 ( c\rse1 are mod]n1 ?\gh 9 "s ( !m !re are imm5se /ones ( v anci5t date1 ^: ru/ic "w ! ,turki% build]s h cut away1 & scor$ ! flat surface ) imitation seams to make !m mat* ! small squ>e /ones ( ! build+ above4 ,yet ! positions ( ! anci5t gates are n difficult to fix1 & mod]n ones d duty = "s ( !m4 ,o!rs are built up ) solid masonry1 notably ! d\ble-ar*$ 8,gate ,beautiful10 :i* 0 ?us clos$ because ( a tradition t ,messiah w\ld return & ent] ! city by x4 ,x 0 f ?is gate t 9 old5 times ! man w5t =? ) ! scapegoat t 0 to be> ! s9s ( ! p to ! wild]ness4 ,! int]ior 7:i*1 h[ev]1 dates f ! sev5? c5tury7 is a ri* & beautiful piece ( ar*itecture1 ) massive monoli?ic pill>s support+ heavy ar*es1 & an elaborately decorative entablature cornic+ ! walls4 ,x is a dre>y little place1 ) its litt] ( dbris & its flights ( bats2 & its dead wall1 pi]c$ only ) loophole w9d[s1 n[ af=ds nei!r entrance = ,*ri/ nor exit = s94 ,:at memories cr[d ! m9d ( ! behold] z he looks ^u ^! gates6 ,"h1 sev5 c5turies ago1 w5t out ! weep+ company ( ! inhabitants1 :5 ,salad9 took ! city4 ,!re1 elev5 c5turies e>li]1 ! ,jews set fire to ! ,roman siege-eng9e1 ! flames 7 bl[n back ^u ! =tifications1 & ! wall fell & made an entrance = ! legions4 ,t 0 ne> ! ,jaffa ,gate4 ,"h aga91 by ! ,damascus ,gate1 if ,gordon's !ory be ! correct "o1 ! ,savi\r pass$ to ,calv>y2 & !re may be /ones !re on :i* ! cross /ruck1 z ,simon ! ,cyr5ian /agg]$ out "u its weight4 ,x is inde$ a /range city1 a city ( grey religion1 9 :i* ?ree fai?s *]i% _! mo/ hall[$ memories ( days f> pa/4 ,b 8f> pa/0 is writt5 on e memory4 ,t ,beautiful ,gate has inde$ %ut out ,*ri/1 & %ut 9 all mann] ( s9 un=giv54 ,! l&1 z has be5 already said1 seems /ill inhabit$ by ,*ri/1 b ,he has =sak5 ,j]usalem2 x is almo/ impossible to feel any s5se ( ,8 pres5ce !re4 ,?is is a city ( grey hi/ory1 ^: age & decrepitude =ce !mselves ^u e visitor4 ,x has be5 well describ$ z hav+ /ill 8! appe>ance ( a gigantic =tress40 ,b x is a weird =tress1 ) an air ( petrifi$ gallantry ab\t x1 & an inf9ite lonel9ess & desolation4 ,no riv] fl[s ne> to s(t5 ! l&scape4 ,a fi]ce sun beats d[n 9 summ] !re ^u 8a city ( /one 9 a l& ( iron ) a sky ( brass40 ,b = ! s\nd ( bugles1 ^: calls seem always to %ock "o ) _! savage livel9ess1 x might be a fossil city4 ,built = et]nity1 sett+ ! patt]n = t 8,new ,j]usalem0 :i* has be5 ! ,utopia ( s _m dev\t s\ls1 x seems a s>casm on ! great promise1 a city 8) a great future beh9d x40 ,:at has ?is relic to d ) a bless$ future = mank9d--?is rugg$ b>5ess ( /one1 ?is contempt = beauty1 ?is pitiful sordidness ( detail8 ,hi/ory & religion seem to m\rn toge!r "h1 & "o sees 9 e remembrance ( x ^? two weep+ figures1 ! mo/ significant ( all1 = its secul> & religi\s life--,titus1 :o 8gaz$ ^u ,j]usalem f ,scopus ! day be=e its de/ruction1 & wept = ! sake ( ! beautiful city02 & ,jesus ,*ri/ :o1 :5 ?+s 7 rip5+ = ,titus1 =esaw ! com+ ( ! legions z ,he look$ ^u ,j]usalem f ,olivet1 8& :5 ,he 0 come ne> ,he beheld ! city & wept ov] x40 ,,"p ,,ii ,,! ,,invad]s ,s9ce ! days ( ! anci5t ,canaanites ,pale/9e has be5 (t5 invad$4 ,! composite life ( ! t[ns we h already not$4 ,! hi/ory ( ,pale/9e %[s h[ composite ! life ( ! :ole l& has become4 ,its c5tral position among ! nations is kn[n to e "o4 ,to ! s\?1 %ut (f by b a /rip ( des]t1 are ,egypt & ,africa2 to ! ea/ lie ,arabia1 ,p]sia1 & ! f>!r ,asiatic cont95t2 easily accessible on ! nor? are ,asia ,m9or1 ,turkey1 & ,russia2 :ile %ips almo/ daily arrive :i* unite x on ! we/ ) ,europe & ,am]ica4 ,yet "o day's ride along any ( its *ief highways w d m to %[ ! travell] :at t c5tral position practically means1 ?an all 8 /udy ( x 9 books & on maps4 ,= 9 "o day's ride he may meet ,kurds1 ,circassians1 ,arabs1 ,syrians1 ,turks1 ,cypriotes1 ,greeks1 ,russians1 ,egyptians1 ,nubians1 ,au/rians1 ,fr5*1 ,g]mans1 ,engli%1 & ,am]icans4 ,9 a mission s*ool 9 ,damascus 7 f\nd "s little d>k-ey$ ,syrian *ildr5 speak+ ,engli% ) an unmi/akable ,au/ralian acc5t4 ,!y _h be5 born & br\ght up 9 ,que5sl&4 ,x is 9 ,hauran t ?is mixture ( races is mo/ =cibly ?ru/ ^u "o's notice4 ,9 ! villages s\? ( ,damascus1 ! cr[d :i* ga!rs r\nd ! t5ts is sure to conta9 sev]al smil+ negroes1 "s ( !m br&$ on ! *eeks2 ,circassians1 ) sickle-%ap$ nose & ?9 lips1 %>p-featur$ & small-limb$ m5 ) an untamable expression on _! bitt] faces2 ,arabs1 d>k] ( complexion1 & m languid ( eye2 & ,turki% soldi]s1 ?9 & smallpox bitt54 ,!re are to be f\nd ! ,jew1 sne]+ complac5tly at ! inf]ior _w2 ! fanatical ,moslem1 :o w break ! wat]-bottle y\r lips h t\*$2 ! ,druse1 :o objects to c(fee & tobacco1 & to :om y hesitate to say 8,good morn+10 le/ he may h consci5ti\s scruples ab\t t2 & ! cross-br$ ruffian1 :o has no scruples ab\t any?+4 ,ev]y?+ helps to /r5g!n ! impression4 ,9 ,damascus x seems always to be ,sunday ) "o or o!r portion ( ! population1 & a diff]5t set ( %utt]s are up ea* day = ne>ly half ! week4 ,! railway1 x might be suppos$1 mu/ h bl5d$ ! life ( ! composite ,ea/1 b x only s]ves to emphasise ! composit5ess4 ,9 "o ( ! ,hauran /ations we _h "s h\rs to wait4 ,we spread our rugs 9 ! %ad[ ( ! /ation-h\se1 ) a ,turki% (fic]1 an ,arab soldi]1 & a long l9e ( camels to wat* till lun* 0 ready4 ,:5 ! "t came1 ! hall ( ! book+-(fice 0 cle>$ ( pass5g]s ( a doz5 diff]5t nationalities1 & our lun* 0 spread on ! floor1 j 9 front ( ! ticket-w9d[6 ,! tra9 came at la/1 an h\r late1 drawn by a r blas-look+ eng9e4 ,!n began t babel ( tongues :i* %[s h[ nations meet 9 ! ,ea/4 ,all ! _w seem$ to h s5t its repres5tatives to t tra9--its weal? to ! :ite-cu%ion$ fir/-class2 its middle-class to ! b>e bo>ds ( ! second2 its pov]ty to ! cattle-trucks dignifi$ by ! "n ( ?ird1--:ile beh9d ! c>riages came two waggons load$ ) gra91 _! own] p]*$ high on "o1 & a baby's cradle on ! o!r4 ,all ?is phantasmagoria ( ! pres5t helps "o to realise bett] ! extraord9>y hi/ory ( ! pa/4 ,= ?\s&s ( ye>s ! fl[ ( manifold human life ?r\gh ,syria has be5 cont9u\s4 ,at ! m\? ( ! ,dog ,riv]1 ^: valley has f "t immemorial s]v$ z a ma9 passage f ! sea to ! ,ea/ = armies1 !re is1 cut 9 smoo!d faces ( ! solid rock1 ! mo/ rem>kable collection ( inscriptions 9 ! _w4 ,! ,assyrian slab %[s /ill ! famili> be>d$ figure ( ! mon>* ) 8 air ( /r5g? untemp]$ by compassion4 ,! ,egyptian slab records its invasion 9 hi]oglyphics4 ,! ,greek1 ,roman1 & ,fr5* /ones tell _! simil> tale4 ,?r\gh\t ! l& ! same ?+ repeats itself4 ,9 ,hauran we f\nd a f9e ,egyptian hi]oglyphic emb$d$ 9 ! mud-&-rubble int]ior wall ( a private c\rty>d1 an alt> ( ! "t ( ,titus ly+ expos$ on a hillside1 & _m ,graeco-,roman inscriptions built into ! walls ( h\ses4#ae ,! five names :i* we h select$ f s great a numb] ( invad]s are ^? ^: m>k ^u ! l& has be5 deepe/ & mo/ p]man5t4 ,,*apt] ,i ,,israelite ,e travell] is impress$ by ! v meagre rema9s ( a mat]ial k9d :i* ,israel has left = curi\s eyes4 ,9 a museum at ,j]usalem _m ( ^! h be5 ga!r$--fragm5ts ( pott]y & glass1 co9s1 & o!r relics1--b ! total numb] ( !m is surpris+ly small4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 ^? huge /ones to :i* ref]5ce has be5 already made1 cut 9 a /yle :i* exp]ts us$ to reg>d z di/9ctive en\gh to enable !m to id5tify x z ,jewi% "w4#af ,b inscriptions are extremely r>e4 ,phnicia & ,israel seem to h purposely avoid$ ! habit ( ,assyrian & ,egyptian k+s1 :o wrote ^u ev]y?+ !y built4 ,!re is1 ( c\rse1 ! ,moabite /one1 ^: *>act]s are closely alli$ to ,hebrew writ+4 ,b ) t exception !re is h>dly any c]ta9 ,hebrew inscription extant except "o4 ,t is inde$ a writ+ ( romantic fame4 ,!re is a tunnel kn[n z ,hezekiah's ,aqu$uct1 connect+ ! ,f\nta9 ( ! ,virg9 ) ! ,pool ( ,siloam at ,j]usalem4 ,its l5g? is r m ?an ! ?ird ( a mile2 its ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,lake ,,( ,,galilee1 ,,look+ ,,s\? ,,f ,,tib]ias4 ,two ( ! circul> t[]s & wall :i* def5d$ ! anci5t ,tib]ias are se5 9 ! =egr\nd4 height v>ies f five or six feet to "o foot f\r in*es4 ,its c\rse b5ds 9 a wide sweep :i* adds greatly to ! di/ance1 & is said to h be5 tak5 9 ord] to avoid tombs4 ,!re are a numb] ( culs de sac1 :]e ! workm5 _h evid5tly lo/ _! way4 ,! fl[ ( wat] is int]mitt5t1 s t ,sir ,*>les ,w>r5 & 8 fri5ds took _! lives 9 _! h&s :5 !y fir/ explor$ x4 ,_! m\?s 7 (t5 "u wat]1 8& a brea? ( air c\ld only be obta9$ by twi/+ _! faces up4 ,to keep a light burn+1 to take measurem5ts1 & make obs]vations "u ^! circum/ances 0 a "w ( no little difficulty2 & yet1 aft] crawl+ ?r\gh mud & wat] = f\r h\rs1 ! hon\r ( f9d+ ! inscription 0 res]v$ = a nak$ ur*9 ( ! t[n1 :o1 "s ye>s aft]1 ann\nc$ t he _h se5 writ+ on ! wall1 :]eupon ,pr(essor ,sayce1 & ,h]r ,s*ick1 & ,dr4 ,gu! plunge nak$ into ! muddy tunnel ) acid solutions1 & blott+-pap]1 & ev]y?+ necess>y to make squeezes1 & em]ge %iv]+ & triumphant ) ! mo/ int]e/+ ,hebrew inscription t has ev] be5 f\nd 9 ,pale/9e40#ag ,! inscription describes ! meet+ ( ! two p>ties ( m9]s1 :o1 l ! eng9e]s ( mod]n tunnels1 began to bore simultane\sly at opposite ends4 ,fail+ any weal? ( su* mat]ial rema9s1 we mu/ seek = ,israel 9 ! human life ( ! l&4 ,jews are !re 9 abundance1 ga!r$1 = ! mo/ "p1 )9 _! f\r holy cities ( ,j]usalem1 ,tib]ias1 ,hebron1 & ,saf$4 ,9 ,hebron !y are a p]secut$ m9ority2 9 ,saf$ !y =m ab\t half ! population2 9 ,j]usalem1 :]e !re are m ?an sev5ty synagogues1 x 0 e/imat$ 9 #ahih t out ( ! #fj1jjj inhabitants #da1jjj 7 ,jews1 ne>ly six times ! numb] ( ! ,mohamm$ans2 :ile 9 ,tib]ias also !y =m ab\t two-?irds ( ! population4 ,besides ! ,jews resid5t 9 ^! cities !re are o!rs bo? 9 ! old] colonies & 9 ! new settlem5ts ( ! ,zioni/ movem5t1 :i* h be5 creat$ by ! g5]osity ( ,jewi% millionaires4 ,reports diff] z to ! success ( ^! int]e/+ exp]im5ts1 & ! k ( !m :i* c be obta9$ f a pass+ visit is a q inadequate gr\nd = =m+ any judgm5t4 ,mr4 ,zangwill eloqu5tly pleads = ! re/oration ( ! l& to its anci5t p2 ,colonel ,cond] assures u t ! ,jew is incapable ( becom+ a ?or\ghly successful agriculturi/1 ?\gh z a %opkeep]1 a money-*ang]1 or1 9 "s cases1 z a craftsman1 he prosp]s 9 8 native l&4 ,c]ta9 x is t ,jews are ga!r+ to x f ,russia1 ,pol&1 ,g]many1 ,spa91 ,arabia1 & _m o!r c\ntries1 ) :at ultimate result ! future alone c %ew4 ,x w\ld be unfair & mislead+ to take ! pres5t ,jewi% population ( ,syria z ! repres5tative ( anci5t ,israel4 ,x /ill p]petuates1 inde$1 ! sects ( ,ph>isees & ,sadducees1 & x /ill holds alo( f ! surr\nd+ population ) t indep5d5ce & t5acity :i* has m>k$ ,israel f ( old4 ,crucifi$ by ,romans1 but*]$ & tortur$ by ,crusad]s1 oppress$ & driv5 =? by ,moslems1 ?is m>vell\s p lives yet & w live on4 ,9 ,europe ! lot ( ! ,jew has be5 & /ill is a bitt] "o4 ,9 ,syria to-day ! l[e/ & mo/ insult+ t]m ( abuse among ! ,fellah9 is to call ea* o!r ,jews4 ,yet ! _s ( ! p is n brok5 by oppression1 z is ! _s ( ! ,fellah94 ,! ,jew takes :at comes & says little2 b he believes 9 himself1 8 pa/ & 8 future1 ) a fai? indomitable z x is d>+4 ,/ill x mu/ be confess$ t ! ,jew ( ,pale/9e is g5]ally repulsive4 ,m>k ,twa9's description ( !m z he saw !m at ,tib]ias is h>dly ov]drawn--8long-nos$1 lanky1 dyspeptic-look+ gh\ls ) ! indescribable hats on1 & a long curl dangl+ d[n 9 front ( ea* e>40 ,! hats are circul> black felt plates1 giv+ to _! we>]s a peculi> air ( consci\s rectitude & semi-cl]ical sup]iority2 ! curls are gr[n = ! conv5i5ce ( ! ar*angel 9 ! resurrection6 ,! y\ng] m5 & lads ( ,tib]ias impress "o z ! mo/ unpleasant-look+ ( all ! inhabitants ( ! l&4 ,!y are s neurotic & effem9ate1 & at ! same "t s mon/r\sly sup]cili\s4 ,! ,jewi% qu>t]s are fam\s = _! excessive dirt4 ,9 ! visitors' book ( ! hotel at ,tib]ias1 ,capta9 ,mac,gregor wrote 8t ! ,rob ,roy & myself _h /opp$ !re two nights1 & t ! canoe 0 n dev\r$40 ,?is is n enc\rag+1 & 9 "p x is ! result ( mi/ak5 me?ods4 ,_m ( ^! ,jews are subsidis$1 & a subsidis$ religion is inevitably degrad+4 ,a man :o receives an income = no o!r s]vice to 8 k9d ?an t he is a ,jew is n likely to d cr$it to 8 ance/ors4 ,9 ! ,sam>itans we h bett] repres5tatives ( ! anci5t days4 ,no p 9 ! l& h a m pa!tic qua9tness ab\t !m ?an ^! few survivors ( antiquity :o are /ill met ) 9 ! /reets ( ,nablus4 ,!y pres]ve ! old type ( features1 = _! blood has be5 unmix$ = m ?an #bjjj ye>s4 ,b !y are fa/ dy+ out1 & only a remnant ( less ?an #bjj individuals is n[ alive4 ,difficult ( access1 res]v$1 my/]i\s1 !y are ! gho/s ( anci5t ,israel1 :o seem to haunt r ?an to enjoy _! =m] h]itage4 ,9 ! mann]s & cu/oms ( ,syria a /ill m int]e/+ memorial ( ,israel is f\nd4 ,_m ( ^! 7 n peculi> to ,israel1 nor 0 %e ! fir/ to *]i% !m4 ,!y are ! =ms ( ! g5]al ,semitic /ock1 ( :i* %e 0 b "o p4 ,b ! words & ways ( ,israel are ! only =m ( ,semitic life ) :i* ! _w is famili>1 & e /ud5t ( ! ,bible f9ds 9 ^! ! greate/ s\rce bo? ( dev\t & ( sci5tific int]e/4 ,9 ! t[ns & 9 ,j]usalem !re is /ill mu* to rem9d "o ( ! life s mat*lessly del9eat$ 9 ,scripture4 ,lean & mangy dogs /ill sniff ar\nd ,laz>us at ! v door ( ,dives4 ,! w9d[s ( h\ses g5]ally face ! int]ior c\rts1 & ! out] walls are blank1 s t e door op5$ aft] nightfall contra/s ! vivid light ( ! int]ior ) ! 8out] d>kness0 ( ! /reet4 ,/ill m 9 ! c\ntry1 among ! ,fellah9 & ! w&]+ ,arabs1 does "o seem to live 9 ,bible times4 ,! gipsy-l ,b$aw9 we/ ( ,jordan are c]ta9ly degrad$ by *ange ( nomadic habits & by contact ) ! villag]s2 yet !re is en\gh ( _! des]t h]$ity 9 !m to int]pret _m ( ! patri>*al /ories4 ,! ,arab sitt+ at noon-day 9 ! %ad$ edge ( 8 t5t1 or walk+ at ev5tide 9 ! fields :]e x is pit*$1 is ! true son ( ,abraham & ,isaac4 ,:5 y "k him bett] y w n improbably recognise ,jacob also4 ,except = tobacco1 gunp[d]1 & c(fee1 he lives mu* z ,israel liv$ 9 ^? days ( w&]+ to :i* h] writ+s love to trace back h] orig94 ,ev5 ^! mod]n innovations h>dly break ! cont9uity4 ,! ,arab smokes ) su* en?usiasm t x is difficult to imag9e 8 fa!rs )\t _! *ib\k2 & 8 brass-b\nd gun might be ! heirloom ( c\ntless g5]ations4 ,( ! ,fellah & 8 desc5t1 & 8 cons]vatism ( ! pa/1 we h already writt54 ,s x comes to pass t he :o j\rneys intellig5tly ?r\gh ,pale/9e reads ! hi/ory ( ,israel ev] aft]w>ds ) a q new int]e/4 ,! ,bible is incomp>ably ! be/ guide-book to ,syria2 & y seem to j\rney ?r\gh its *apt]s z y move f place to place4 ,"h is ! fig tree plant$ 9 ! v9ey>d2 !re1 ! t[] gu>d+ ! w9e-press4 ,unmuzzl$ ox5 are trampl+ ! corn on ! ?re%+-floor1 f :5ce ! w9d drives ! *aff 9 a gli/5+ cl\d4 ,wom5 are /ill com+ f ! city to draw wat]1 & gr9d+ 9 c\ples at ! mill4 ,we saw ! prodigal son1 dr9k+ & s++ at ,beyr\t2 & ! own] ( ! waggonloads ( corn we not$ 9 ,hauran _h kept !m f ! la/ ye> on ! *ance ( a dr\ght1 :i* w\ld raise _! prices 9 ! m>ket--he 0 ! ri* man ( ! prophets :o 0 gr9d+ ! faces ( ! poor4 ,"u ! walls ( ,jezreel a curi\s co9cid5ce br\ght back vividly to m9d ! tragic fate ( ,jezebel4 ,x 0 !re t we fir/ saw p ) pa9t$ eyes & faces2 & !re a horse lay dead ) a pack ( dogs at "w ^u ! body4 ,next morn+1 z we p>t$1 no?+ 0 left b ! skeleton & ! ho(s4 ,! p :om y meet are talk+ 9 ,bible language4 ,:5 !y repeat ! famili> words ( ,scripture !y are n quot+ texts1 b transact+ bus9ess 9 _! ord9>y way4 ,we 7 told ( a %eph]d ne> ,hebron :o1 :5 ask$ :y ! %eepfolds !re _h no doors1 answ]$ q simply1 8,i am ! door40 ,he meant t at night1 :5 ! %eep 7 ga!r$ )9 ! circul> /one wall ( ! enclosure1 he lay d[n 9 its op5 entrance to sleep1 s t no %eep might /ray f its %elt] )\t wak5+ him1 & no rav5\s bea/ might ent] b across 8 body4 ,9 ! nor?1 an ,am]ican 0 endeav\r+ to p]suade a /alw>t ,syrian lad to try 8 =tunes 9 ,*icago4 ,! boy evid5tly felt ! temptation1 b he turn$ smil+ly t[>ds ! middle-ag$ man at 8 side1 &1 po9t+ to him1 answ]$1 8,suff] me fir/ to bury my fa!r40 ,b ( all our exp]i5ces !re 0 "o :i* recall$ ! anci5t life mo/ vividly1 & on t acc\nt x may be relat$ "h4 ,we _h camp$ ov] night ne> ! village ( ,tell-es-,%ihab 9 ,hauran4 ,9 ! morn+ we m\nt$ our horses amid a cr[d ( villag]s1 & />t$ = ! village4 ,! m5 prote/$ l\dly1 & :5 we told !m we 7 go+ only to se>* = inscriptions1 !y assur$ u t !re 7 none4 ,9 spite ( _! opposition we rode on1 foll[$ by a tumultu\s *orus4 ,a *ance rem>k l$ f9ally to an invitation f ! headman ( ! village to 8 m5zil1 or reception hall4 ,x 0 ! m5tion ( ! "n ( ,dr4 ,torrance1 ( ! ,tib]ias ,m$ical ,mission1 :o1 on "o ( 8 j\rneys1 _h cur$ ?is %eikh ( an illness4 ,at ! door our ho/ met u1 & mo/ c\rte\sly invit$ u to ent]1 b[+ & t\*+ our palms ) 84 ,! hall 0 d>k1 ) ! great /one ar* *>act]i/ic ( ,hauran ar*itecture spann+ its c5tre4 ,smoke _h col\r$ ! ar* & ! raft]s a ri* d>k br[n1 f ^: %ad[ swall[s flitt$ cont9ually out into ! sun%9e & back aga94 ,we 7 seat$ on mats1 spread ) little squ>es ( ri* c>pet r\nd ?ree sides ( a holl[ place 9 ! floor1 :]e a fire ( *>coal burn$1 surr\nd$ by p>rot-beak$ c(feepots4 ,?is 0 ! he>? ( hospitality1 ^: fire is nev] suff]$ to g out2 ne> x /ood ! great /one mort>1 9 :i* a black slave 0 cru%+ c(feebeans4 ,! c(fee1 delici\sly flav\r$ ) "s cunn+ h]b or o!r1 0 pass$ r\nd4 ,b ! conv]sation :i* foll[$ 0 ! memorable "p ( t ent]ta9m5t4 ,9 ! %ad[ at ! back ! "y m5 :o _h be5 admitt$ sat 9 sil5ce4 ,! old m51 eld]s ( ! village community1 sat 9 a r[ on /one b5*es "r & left ( ! door4 ,! %eikh made _m apologies = n hav+ call$ ^u u at ! t5ts--he _h ?\ght we 7 m]*antm5 go+ to buy silk at ,damascus4 ,!n foll[$ endless ov]-valuation ( ea* o!r1 & flatt]y conc]n+ our respective p>5ts & relations4 8,h[ long w\ld we /ay "u 8 ro(8 surely at lea/ till to-morr[ or next day8 ,no1 "o ( u _h to cat* a /eam] at ,beyr\t8 ,b any /eam] w\ld wait = s great a g5]al10 etc4 ,until f9ally our lead] came to ! delicate subject ( inscriptions1 & 0 made free ( ! t[n1 & imm$iately guid$ to ! ,egyptian slab m5tion$ on p4 #hg4 ,x 0 a p]fect specim5 ( int]c\rse ) ,arabs1 & x daz$ u ) its anci5t spell4 ,!re is no possibility ( hurry4 ,y mu/ despat* y\r bus9ess by way ( a discussion ( ?+s 9 g5]al4 ,complim5ts 7 z rife & z conv5tional z ^? ( ,abraham & ! *ildr5 ( ,he? at ,kirja?-,arba1 & !y 7 receiv$ & giv5 )\t any pret5ce ( tak+ !m s]i\sly4 ,! eld]s sat sil5tly lean+ ^u _! /aves1 except n[ & !n1 :5 "o ( !m w\ld sl[ly rise & expatiate ^u some?+ ! %eikh _h said--p]haps ab\t camels or ! gra9 crop--beg9n+ 8 int]ruption almo/ lit]ally 9 ! words ( ,job's fri5ds3--8,he>k5 to me1 ,i also w %ew m9e op9ion4 ,i w answ] also on my "p1 ,i also w %ew m9e op9ion4 ,illu/ration3 ,,site ,,( ,,! ,,anci5t ,,city ,,( ,,sam>ia4 ,! rema9s ( ! anci5t city are on ! olive-clad hill to ! left4 ,= ,i am full ( matt]1 ! _s )9 me con/ra9e? me40 ,altoge!r x 0 a sc5e ( ! unadult]at$ ,ea/--j su* a sc5e z might h be5 witness$ any "t ^! ?ree ?\s& ye>s4 99 99 99 99 99 ,! great memorial ( ,israel is h] religion4 ,to h] x 0 giv5 to "k ! ,et]nal ,god & to pass on t k to all ! nations ( ! _w4 ,among ! _m impressions giv5 by a j\rney ?r\gh ,pale/9e1 none is s important & none s /rong z ?is1 t ! l& 0 em95tly suit$ = t "o purpose & = t alone4 ,%e tri$ _m simil> exp]im5ts1 b !y all fail$ utt]ly4 ,! luxuri\s ori5talism ( ,solomon1 ! democratic revolt ( ,j]oboam1 ! milit>y ambitions ( ,baa%a1 & ! attempt at comm]cial supremacy :i* ,omri made--ea* ( ^! 0 an imitation ( "o or o!r ( ! contempor>y nations4 ,= ,israel !y 7 alike impossible4 ,_! successive failures proclaim h] a peculi> p1 set 9 a peculi> place = a peculi> purpose4 ,= !m1 z ,r5an says1 8to act l m50--i4e4 l all ! re/ ( ! _w--0 a sort ( degradation4 ,all o!r exp]im5ts 9 greatness fail$2 _! greatness lay solely 9 ! k ( ! ,"l4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,gr,,co-,,roman ,no?+ /rikes "o m ?an ! contra/ 9 ,pale/9e betwe5 ! vani%+ ( ,hebrew build+s & ! p]man5ce ( ,roman ones4 ,y h come "h to a l& :i* y "k to h be5 = _m ye>s "u ,roman gov]nm5t1 b :i* /ill to y\r imag9ation is ,ori5tal1 ) "h & !re a ,roman t\*4 ,y f9d1 among ! v anci5t build+s1 h>dly a rema9+ trace ( any?+ t is n ,roman2 & ( ,roman "w y f9d an am\nt :i* probably a/oni%es y4 ,be=e y h long left ,jaffa1 "s "p or o!r ( "o ( ! old ,roman roads mak+ = ,j]usalem w be se54 ,n long aft]w>ds ,be!r comes 9 sight--t t]rible little valley :]e ! blood ran s deep :5 ! siege end$ & ! ,jews' la/ hope 0 brok54 ,s y move on f po9t to po9t ( ,roman /ory until1 z y climb ! /eep asc5t f ! ,jordan valley to ,gad>a1 y realise t x 0 :5 encamp$ j "h t ,vespasian he>d ! news ( ,n]o's dea? & 0 proclaim$ emp]or by 8 legion4 ,! ,roman "w 9 ,pale/9e seems to exagg]ate its peculi> *>act]i/ics1 s t "h "o notices ^! m di/9ctly ?an 9 any o!r l&4 ,a ,roman t[] 9 ,switz]l&1 a ,roman road 9 ,scotl&--c]ta9ly !y are ,roman1 b !y are n remov$ f all ?+s ,swiss or ,scot* by s va/ an int]val z t :i* divides ,roman f native "w 9 ,pale/9e4 ,x is inde$ an invasion ( arms1 ?is ,roman life--an intrusion ( :at is1 fir/ & la/1 ali5 to ! _s ( ! place4 ,! travell] to-day1 to :om ! v du/ ( ?is l& is de>1 inevitably feels ab\t ! ,roman relics an air ( obtrusive & uncompreh5d+ indiff]5ce4 ,!y 8c>$ = none ( ^! ?+s10 or1 if !y did c>e a little n[ & !n & try to und]/&1 !y did x clumsily & unnaturally4 ,rome's policy 0 t ( wide tol]ation1 b h] _s 0 absolutely unaccommodat+4 ,%e might all[ h] prov9ces to gov]n !mselves & to wor%ip pretty mu* z !y *ose1 b %e h]self1 9 h] (ficials & _! works1 /ood alo( f !m & 0 ,rome /ill4 ,?is is to be se5 9 ,pale/9e 9 all its good & 9 all its bad aspects4 ,9 ^? solidly-con/ruct$ bridges & mighty aqu$ucts & imp]i%able causeways !re is ! v embodim5t ( ! ,roman virtus & gravitas1 t output ( manhood :i* nev] trifl$ nor sp>$ itself1 t solemn1 bus9ess-l reality :i* is s full ( purpose4 ,9 ?is h>d reality ( ,rome !re is n only purpose b pitilessness ( =ce to accompli% :at is plann$4 ,e ,roman road y *ance ^u seems to be feel+ its way ) an un]r+ in/9ct t[>ds ,j]usalem or "s o!r goal1 & y "k t x w arrive4 ,j z impressive1 on ! o!r h&1 is ! s5se ( ,rome's limitations4 ,h] works disclose h] see+ a c]ta9 l5g?1 & y "k beyond all d\bt t %e w get !re4 ,b !re are v obvi\s & v cle>ly def9$ limits to ! l5g? %e ev] sees or w g4 ,! "w ( ,greece is f> beyond ! fur!/ rea* ( ,roman "w--! glad spr+1 ! grace ( consci\s /r5g? t is beautiful z well z /rong1 ! re/fulness )al ( p]fect h>mony t is ?9k+ ( m ?an m]ely utilit>ian values2 ( ^! ,rome kn[s n ! secret4 ,beside ! flight ( ,greek art %e is p$e/rian2 to ! ,greek arti/ %e plays at be/ b ! "p ( ,roman artisan4 ,=ceful1 massive1 successful up to its highe/ desire1 ! ,roman "w is f9i%$ & p]fect4 ,& x has atta9$ f9i% & p]fection on a l[] level ?an t ( any nation t ev] yet dream$ dreams or 8look$ beyond ! _w = tru? & beauty40 ,n t !re are no o!r traces ( ,rome 9 ,syria beyond ! /ones ( ,roman ru9s4 ,9 _m place-names ,lat9 is disc]nible1 & ! c\ntry is full ( inscriptions ( all sorts4 ,a /ill m p]man5t m>k 0 left by t invasion ( ,roman _s :i*1 = a "t1 claim$ ,israel = ,rome4 ,rome came to ,syria next 9 succession to ! invasion ( ,alex&] ! ,great4 ,aft] 8 dea? ! ,mac$onian p[] rema9$ 9 ! ,ea/1 & ! s$uctive _s ( ,greek humanism became ! rival ( ! old ,puritan ,hebraism ( ! nation4 ,x 0 ?is t l$ to ! ,w>s ( ! ,maccabees1 :o f\ght = ! /]n] aga9/ ! m g5ial _s4 ,z 9 ! days ( ,engli% ,cromwell1 ! ,puritan 0 inv9cible :ile he rema9$ true to 8 fai?--t s+ul>ly effective bl5d ( patriotism ) religi\s belief :i* has made itself felt 9 s _m national hi/ories4 ,! triumph ( ,hebraism la/$ = ab\t a c5tury1 & !n came ,pompey 9 #fc ,b4,c4 to ,j]usalem4 ,hell5ism rega9$ its asc5d5cy & ! ,greek cities ( ,pale/9e _! fre$om4 ,ab\t a qu>t] ( a c5tury lat] ! figure ( ,h]od ! ,great appe>s z a critical factor 9 ! hi/ory ( ,pale/9e4 ,an ,idumean & a ,sadducee1 he _h nei!r patriotism nor religion to *eck 8 ambition4 ,! pa? ( glory & ( easy advancem5t1 !n1 0 by way ( ,rome1 & !re 0 mu* 9 ,h]od t f\nd ,rome cong5ial4 ,z a "y man he _h made 8 "n by cle>+ out a notori\s b& ( robb]s f ! valley :i* l$ d[n ! great road f ! ,m$it]ranean to ! ,sea ( ,galilee at ,cap]naum4 ,?is 8,vale ( ,doves0 is flank$ by precipices pi]c$ ) _m caves1 9 :i* ! robb]s liv$4 ,josephus tells u h[ ,h]od fell ^u ! device ( lett+ d[n cages ) ! brave/ ( 8 soldi]s4 ,^! m51 l[]$ by ropes f ! edge ( ! cliff1 sprang ^u ! robb]s 9 _! cave's m\?1 & :5 !y retreat$ )91 smok$ !m out ) fires l v]m94 ,! man :o contriv$ & c>ri$ out t design 0 n unwor?y ( ! title 8,great0 f ! ,roman po9t ( view4 ,he became ! c5tre & ! *ampion ( ! new ,hell5ism1 :i* 0 really ! wor%ip ( ,rome1 t\*$ z ,rome 0 ) ! ,greek culture %e _h conqu]$ & envi$ & s\ght 9 va9 to acquire4 ,rome 0 clumsily ,greek at ?is "t1 & ,h]od 0 clumsily ,roman4 ,c]ta9ly he w\ld h be5 a ,roman if he c\ld4 ,he 0 prep>$ to g any l5g? to s]ve 8 end4 ,at ! ,banias spr+s ( ,jordan he built a temple to ,augu/us4 ,sam>ia & ,cs>ea1 8 ,roman cities1 mu/ h co/ him a fabul\s sum to build4 ,( ! actual ar*itectural rema9s ( ,rome 9 ,pale/9e1 ! smalle/ are p]haps ! mo/ impressive4 ,"h & !re1 f s\? to nor?1 y come ^u tess]1 ! rema9s ( inlaid mosaic floors ( ! anci5t h\ses4 ,sometimes x is s+le little cubes t turn up among ! gravel ( ! sea-%ore or %9e f ! newly-pl\gh$ furr[4 ,at o!r times brok5 fragm5ts ( a h&-bread?'s size may be f\nd1 ) en\gh v>iety ( col\r to sugge/ ! beg9n+ ( a patt]n4 ,b "h & !re y may f9d :ole floors ( elaborately design$ mosaic1 ) conc5tric circles ( v>i\s col\r & size1 ) l>ge-scale pictures1 or1 z 9 "o case at lea/1 ) an anci5t map--"o ( ! mo/ anci5t 9 ! _w4 ,on _m a spot ( ,pale/9e y ride ov] gr\nd ^: /ones are capitals ( c>v$ pill>s1 & ^: lay]s ( cak$ e>? disclose fragm5ts ( anci5t mosaic floors4 ,! ,roman roads are /ill frequ5tly met ) 9 ,pale/9e1 & ^!1 p]haps m ?an any o!r ( _! works1 help ! imag9ation to realise ! old life 9 its magnific5ce ( p[]4 ,:e!r ! causeway lies b>e to ! wea!r across a m\nta91 or :e!r x cuts its track along ! %e] cliff ( a gorge1 !re is ! same uncompromis+ purpose & capacity 9 x--! /ride ( ! road1 t seems to be aw>e ( :i!r x is go+ & ! reason = its go+ !re4 ,9 ! cities ( ! ,decapolis & o!rs !re is g5]ally "o /raight l9e ( ,roman causeway--! 8,/reet call$ ,/raight10 :i* is by no means peculi> to ,damascus4 ,x 0 a ,roman hobby1 ?is ( /raightness1 & "o ( ! mo/ *>act]i/ic ( ,roman hobbies4 ,! roads w5t1 s f> z t 0 possible1 up hill & d[n dale 9 a direct l9e f place to place2 & 9 ! cities at lea/ "o column$ /reet did ! same4 ,! mile/ones :i* may /ill be f\nd occasionally seem to height5 ! human int]e/1 ?\gh t is consid]ably damp$ :5 we realise t none ( ^! roads date f ! e>ly ,roman days 9 ,syria4 ,! pa?s our ,savi\r walk$ on 7 b tracks1 n unlike ^? :i* mod]n travell]s foll[4 ,b ! bridges are old]1 & 9 "s places !y are us$ = traffic to-day1 spann+ ,jordan & ,leontes4 ,!re is little causeway at ! ends ( !m--_! "o bus9ess 9 ^! old days 0 to d ! difficult & ne$ful task ( cross+ wat]4 ,once across1 ! travell] might f9d 8 pa? or make x = himself4 ,p>apets are n provid$ on ! old bridges1 & ! surface is a flight ( broad & %all[ /eps4 ,if y walk unw>ily & are dr[n$ 9 ! torr5t bel[1 t is no conc]n ( ^! resolute b unluxuri\s bridge-build]s4 ,_! bus9ess is simply to span ! /ream4 ,s effectively & consci5ti\sly h !y done ?is1 t ev5 :5 "t & floods h brok5 ! bridge1 y may see ! half ( x /ill /&+3 ! huge pi] ( /one & ( mort> almo/ h>d] ?an /one /&s at ! side1 & ! actual ar* is /ill flung across ! wat]1 w$g$ into an almo/ unbreakable /r5g? by its key/one1 :ile all ! surface build+ above ! ar* has long be5 wa%$ away4 ,su* a ru9 may be se5 to-day on ! coa/ "s miles to ! nor? ( ,tyre4 ,x 0 9 h] fight ) wat]1 ei!r = x 9 aqu$ucts or aga9/ x 9 quays & bridges1 t ,rome seems to h put out h] utmo/ /r5g? ( masonry4 ,along ! coa/s bo? ( ! ,m$it]ranean & ( ! ,sea ( ,galilee1 subm]g$ /ones & fragm5ts ( build+ may be se51 :i* be> te/imony to ?is2 & at ,t>i*e1 :]e a l>ge fi%-cur+ trade _h to be provid$ =1 !re are rema9s ( a dam & quay :]e ,jordan swept r\nd 9 a circle1 af=d+ a great l5g? ( wat]-frontage4 ,b p]haps ! mo/ noticeable monum5ts ( ,rome 9 ?is dry & ?ir/y l& are ! ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,=ec\rt ,,( ,,! ,,*ur* ,,( ,,! ,,holy ,,sepul*re4 aqu$ucts1 sections ( :i* /ill /& 9 _m p>ts4 ,9 ! neighb\rhood ( ,j]i*o1 ,laur5ce ,oliphant c\nt$ n9e diff]5t aqu$ucts4 ,at ,khan ,m9yeh1 believ$ by "s to be ! site ( ,cap]naum1 !re is a bewild]+ mass ( wat]-build+ ( _m sorts4 ,a ,wass]?urm /ill /&s1 ^: walls are #ab feet 9 ?ickness1 & 9 all directions wat] is c>ri$ at v>i\s levels 9 *annels :i* run along ! top ( mighty banks ( masonry4 ,great /one wat]-pipes1 ) rim & holl[ = fitt+ to ! next pipes tightly1 lie scatt]$ 9 all directions1 peep+ up ?r\gh ! long grass & f]ns1 or hid+ among ! roots ( ! ?orn trees4 ,else:]e are to be se5 long] /ret*es ( aqu$uct1 ^: ar*itects h be5 able to turn /r5g? into beauty 9 a v wond]ful fa%ion4 ,roman build+ at its be/ relies on ! "o pr9ciple ( con/ructive tru?4 ,x nev] aims at be+ pretty2 x nev] fails 9 be+ "r = ! purpose x is meant to s]ve4 ,f ! po9t ( view ( beauty ?is may (t5 h produc$ h>%1 mat]ial1 & heavy "w--& inde$ t is "p ( :at we h already ref]r$ to z ! limitation ( ,roman a*ievem5t4 ,b ! highe/ beauty is1 aft] all1 a matt] f> m ( tru? ?an ( ornam5t1 & !re are _m rema9s ( ,roman "w 9 :i* su* high beauty has be5 unconsci\sly atta9$4 ,!y built to accompli% "s def9ite practical purpose1 & = t end !y built ?or\ghly & well4 ,! result is ! beauty :i* comes l a cr[n ^u hone/ "w beyond ! design ( ! work]s--a beauty ( :ol5ess1 adequacy1 tru?1 :i* is p]haps n s f> remov$ f ! ,hebrew idea ( ! 8beauty ( hol9ess0 z c>eless obs]v]s might be dispos$ to ?9k4 ,?is is se5 9 _m a fragm5t ( ! ,roman aqu$ucts4 ,^! irregul>1 ?ree-ti]$ clu/]s ( v>i\sly siz$ & %ap$ ar*es1 c>ry+ ! /one or concrete *annel across a gorge1 h a real beauty ( _! own2 & ! long /ret*es ( s+le or d\ble ti]s t take up ! *annel :]e x em]ges f a m\nta9-tunnel1 lead x high & secure across ! trea*]\s ooze ( a m>%1 ?r[ _! level l9e on high bridges ov] rav9es1 & at la/ end 9 ! tumbl$ ru9s ( a city ^: pools & f\nta9s !y fill$ long ago--^! h an indisputable beauty ( workman%ip & design1 z well z an inf9ite pa?os ( s5tim5t4 ,next 9 impressiv5ess to ^! monum5ts are ! rema9s ( ! ,greek amphi!atres ( ! ,roman p]iod4 ,:e!r x be t ! massiv5ess ( ! /ones has be5 too mu* = ! lazy build]s :o h con/ruct$ _! mod]n dwell+s out ( /ol5 fragm5ts ( ru9s2 or :e!r1 9 its irony1 hi/ory has atta*$ to ^! monum5ts ( ,rome's attempt to amuse ! _w "s special sacr$ness1 x w\ld be difficult to say4 ,c]ta9 x is t ^! 9 _m places rema91 sunk 9 ! natural holl[ ( a hill z 9 a socket1 :ile all traces ( ! city :i* once surr\nd$ !m h disappe>$4 ,!y h be5 (t5 describ$1 bo? z !y are f\nd 9 ,syria & else:]e2 & ! /age arrangem5ts1 ! und]gr\nd passages1 & ! :ole design ( !m does n mat]ially diff] f ^? ( o!r c\ntries4 ,"o feature 9 ! ,syrian !atres appe>s ) special di/9ctness4 ,:5 ! play 0 go+ on1 an awn+ may be suppos$ to h be5 spread horizontally ov] ! ro(1 to %ade spectators & actors f ! sun4 ,betwe5 ! edge ( ?is awn+ & ! flat top rim ( ! /age build+s1 !re w\ld be a blank space left1 z x 71 l a fram$ & drap$ picture4 ,! sites 7 s *os5 t ?is space 0 fill$ up ) "s comm&+ly beautiful vi/a--9 ! nor? g5]ally a view ( ,h]mon4 ,hauran boa/s _m su* !atres 9 ! cities ( ! ,decapolis4 ,9 cities :i* 7 fir/ ,greek & !n ,roman1 su* z ^!1 x may be difficult to det]m9e ! exact date ( a p>ticul> build+4 ,if ! ,romans built ^! !atres1 !y closely imitat$ ! old] ,grecian "w4 ,!y c]ta9ly built ! !atre & hippodrome ( ,cs>ea1 9 :i* latt] ! goal-po/ is /ill to be se51 an imm5se granite /one1 :i* has se5 life 9 its day4 ,! !atres h1 z a rule1 surviv$ ! =tresses & ! temples4 ,rome und]took _m ?+s4 ,%e w\ld wor%ip1 gov]n1 educate1 amuse4 ,is x n significant t h] wreck looks s l a gigantic playgr\nd1 z if 9 ^? deg5]ate days ( h] conque/ ! ,empire 0 already f9d+ 9 ! motto 8il faut s'amus]0 h] rule ( life8 ,aft] all1 x is 8 *ief int]e/ t is ! immortal ?+ ab\t any man or nation4 ,yet ?is may be an unju/ & fanciful e/imate4 ,relics ( ,roman temples & =tresses also rema94 ,a /atue ( ,jupit] has _h its resurrection f ! s&s ( ,gaza1 & a monum5t 9 hon\r ( ,jupit] ,s]apis n[ be>s a ,roman inscription ne> ! ,zion ,gate ( ,j]usalem4 ,ne> spr+s & ! f\nta9-heads ( riv]s especially1 ! ru9s ( ,roman %r9es to ! ,g5ius ( ! f\nta9 are f\nd1 z at ,banias4 ,=tresses too1 :]e ,roman g>risons us$ to be locat$1 c /ill be trac$1 9 a r+ or an oblong trail ( loose /ones4 ,su* ru9s cr[n ! height ( ,tabor1 ! summit ( ,g]izim1 & _m ano!r hill4 ,b ^! %ew little trace ( _! =m] mean+4 ,"h & !re ! acropolis ( a ,greek or ,roman t[n may reta9 its anci5t embankm5t1 built on ! /eep slope ( ! hill1 z if %or+ up ! plateau above :]e ! temple once /ood4 ,else:]e1 "s p>ts ( ! curta9 wall ( a crusad] ca/le may be blocks ( ,roman =tification left 9 situ4 ,b ! great] "p ( ! ,roman build+ mu/ be look$ = 9 ! walls ( village h\ses1 :]e ! contra/ betwe5 su* fragm5ts & _! surr\nd+s is z grotesque z x is pitiful4 ,! ,gad>5es h built into _! walls :atev] lay ne>e/ !m4 ,c(f9s & tomb/ones1 capitals & columns1 ev5 alt>s !mselves1 are !re1 8/opp+ holes to keep ! w9d away02 x is exactly :at 8imp]ial ,cs>0 has come to 9 ,gad>a4 ,:5 ,roman p[] decay$1 ! signs ( its decad5ce 7 manife/ 9 ! dep>ture f old sev]ity into an effloresc5ce ( ornam5t & a magnific5ce ( m]e size out ( all proportion to ! con/ructive mean+ ( ! "w4 ,9 ,baalbek1 ,rome has left u a monum5t ( su* decad5ce4 ,! elaborat$ detail is =eign to ! gr& simplicity ( ! old ,roman /yle1 & ! exagg]at$ size is b boa/fulness4 8,! ,romans _h se5 ! huge ,jewi% /ones at ,j]usalem0 7z ,dr4 ,m]rill expla9$ ! matt] to u7 8& began at ,baalbek to "w on a bigg] scale1 ! ,b>nums ( ! anci5t _w1 ^: ambition 0 to run ! bigge/ %[ on e>?4 ,by & by !y got tir$ ( t1 & left x (f2 x 0 n _! l9e1 aft] all40 8,! l9e0 ( ,rome 0 a v /raight & simple "o4 ,) imm5se p[] & a great & s+le purpose1 %e w5t /raight =w>d1 & did :at %e meant to d4 ,h]s 0 a r\gh simplicity :i* nev] fail$4 ,/range t1 ) s mighty a res\rce1 %e %\ld h ev] gone out ( h] l9e to attempt any o!r "w ?an h] own6 ,:5 m5 or nations discov] _! limitations1 & ra%ly make up _! m9d no long] to /ay )9 !m1 _! ambition has already begun to =e%ad[ _! d[nfall4 ,! pa?os ( see+ any?+ :i* evid5tly 0 once s compet5t & s /rong1 n[ s absolutely dead z ,rome is1 is height5$ almo/ to weep+1 9 ^? places :]e ! little & ev]yday memorials ( h] =m] life are commone/4 ,x is n ! gigantic monoli?s1 b ! little tess]1 n ! fall5 columns1 b ! brok5 j>-h&les1 t t\* ! he>t mo/4 ,betwe5 ,tyre & ,sidon ! rid] passes ov] fields e /one ( :i* is a fragm5t ( "s m>ble slab or curi\sly-c>v$ piece ( masonry4 ,8 horse is ov]turn+ ! rema9s ( ,orni?opolis1 8! city ( ! bird10 9 ^! pl\gh$ fields4 ,b x is at ,sam>ia t ! emotion is mo/ irresi/ible4 ,:]e ! 8fat valley0 op5s to ! we/w>d1 a conical hill1 slightly oval & ) flatt5$ top n[ clad ) an or*>d1 ne/les 9 & yet lies ap>t f ! b5d ( ! m\nta9s ( ,ephraim4 ,x 0 ?is hill t ,omri b\ght f ,%om] = ! heavy price ( two tal5ts ( silv]4 ,x 0 "h t ! city rose--! inf]ior h\ses 7if we may recon/ruct ! probable pa/7 ( :ite brick1 ) raft]s ( sycamore2 ! gr&] ones ( hewn /one & c$>--:ile ! royal palace ov]topp$ !m all4 ,a broad wall ) t]rac$ top encircl$ x1 & ! city lay !re1 8a va/ luxuri\s c\*1 9 :i* its nobles re/$ securely1 #8propp$ & cu%ion$ up on bo? sides z 9 ! *]i%$ corn] ( a ri* divan4'0 ,x 0 ,ahab's capital too1 & aft] ! v>y+ =tunes ( c5turies x 0 grant$ to ,h]od ! ,great by ,augu/us1 :o imm$iately call$ x by ! ,greek "n ( ! emp]or1 ,seba/e1 & proce$$ to rebuild x 9 a /yle ( unhe>d-( magnific5ce4 ,a hippodrome appe>$ 9 ! holl[1 a temple on ! hill4 ,r\nd ! summit he ran a flat t]race ) d\ble colonnade ( monoli?ic pill>s ab\t #af feet 9 height1 ) palaces & massive gateways4 ,f our camp on ! ?re%+-floor1 q ne> ! circuit ( pill>s--= _m ( !m are /ill /&+1 & ! bases ( almo/ all may be se5 9 ! gr\nd--we cross$ to )9 ! r+ ( ! colonnade4 ,! gr\nd 0 pl\gh$ "h ev5 along ! faces ( ! artificial t]race-banks1 :i* /ill pres]ve _! %e] angle1 clean & /eep z ( old4 ,! furr[s 7 lit]ally s[n ) fragm5ts ( brok5 pott]y & tess]4 ,we cross$ to a squ>$ & heavy mass ( fall5 /ones & c>v$ pill>s ly+ slantwise aga9/ walls /ill /rong 9 ru91 :i* be>s ! "n ( ,h]od's daught]'s palace2 & !n along ! colonnade to ! great piles ( masonry :i* gu>d ! gate t looks t[>d ,cs>ea4 ,two massive t[]s are !re1 p>tly 9 ru9s & soon to be :olly s1 = ! cactus h$ge is busy ) its roots among ! /ones1 & is mak+ its way ?r\gh cracks to ! v he>t ( ! t[]s4 ,we sat !re wat*+ ! sun s9k into ! sea1 & ?\ght ( all ^? fad$ spl5d\rs & crimes t make ?is spot s fam\s among ! tragic places ( ! _w4 ,x 0 ! home ( ,jezebel1 x 0 ! slaught]-h\se ( ,m>iamne1 bo? ( :om mu/ (t5 h wat*$ ! sunset f t gate4 ,! ambitions ( ! anci5t k+s1 ! pride & weal? & cruelty ( ,h]od1 ! beauty & ! mis]y ( passionate wom51 dead ^! _m c5turies--all seem$ to p ! place ) gho/s1 z ! twilight deep5$4 ,we turn$ to g back1 & f\nd ourselves accompani$ by ! man :o f>ms ! hill--a tall1 fri5dly1 & graci\s man 9 long fl[+ robes4 ,he held ! h& ( 8 little five-ye>-old girl1 a d>k-ey$1 sweet-fac$ *ild1 dress$ 9 a r$ cloak cross$ ) blue & yell[ /ripes4 ,h] hair 0 %ort1 9 clu/]+ curls ( glossy black1 ) a blue bead cunn+ly inwov5 among !m to keep (f ! evil eye4 ,%e _h h] free h& entw9$ by all its f+]s 9 ! wool ( a pet lamb1 :i* %e /e]$ along sideways vigor\sly4 ,h[ dead ! mighty ,h]od & all ! ,roman glory seem$ 9 contra/ ) ?is simple picture ( ! et]nal life ( home6 ,:]e a multitude ( m5 brea!d joy & woe ,long ago2 ,lu/ ( glory prick$ _! he>ts up1 dread ( %ame ,/ruck !m tame2 ,& t glory & t %ame alike1 ! gold ,b\ght & sold4 ,n[1--! s+le little turret t rema9s ,on ! pla9s1 ,by ! cap] ov]-root$1 by ! g\rd ,ov]scor$1 ,:ile ! pat*+ h\seleek's head ( blossom w9ks ,?r\gh ! *9ks-- ,m>ks ! basem5t :5ce a t[] 9 anci5t "t ,sprang sublime1 ,& a burn+ r+ all r\nd1 ! *>iots trac$ ,z !y rac$1 ,& ! mon>* & 8 m9ions & 8 dames ,view$ ! games4 99 99 99 99 99 ,oh he>t6 oh blood t freezes1 blood t burns6 ,e>?'s returns ,= :ole c5turies ( folly1 noise & s96 ,%ut !m 91 ,) _! triumphs & _! glories & ! re/6 ,love is be/4#ah ,x is n1 h[ev]1 m]ely ) ! *ill ( t :i* has be5 long dead t ,rome affects u 9 ,syria2 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,rotunda ,,& ,,*apel ,,( ,,! ,,holy ,,sepul*re4 x is ) ! liv+ int]e/ :i* atta*es to all t t\*$ ,*ri/1 & ent]$ 9 any way into ,*ri/ianity4 ,x is a f>-rea*+ g5]alisation :i* rem9ds u t 8! great civilisations h always ris5 9 ! meet+-places ( ideas40#ai ,hi/orically x is true t ! times ( greate/ int]national /ruggle h be5 times ( height5$ vitality1 :5 ! m+l+ nations 7 ready to receive & to imp>t mu*1 & to s5d =? a new _s ^u ! _w4 ,no?+ c\ld be m provid5tially apposite1 f ?is po9t ( view1 ?an t ,jesus %\ld h be5 born 8amid ! fev] ( ! e/abli%m5t ( ! ,roman p[] 9 ,judea40 ,he kept alo(1 inde$1 f ! ,h]odian p :o liv$ delicately 9 k+s' h\ses1 & f all ! ,greek & ,grco-,roman life ( 8 day4 ,yet1 z ,dr4 ,smi? has %[n u memorably1 ,jesus 0 no quiet ru/ic dream+ dreams & see+ visions f> f ! life ( m54 ,he liv$ & di$ 9 close t\* ) all t ,rome1 ,greece1 ,egypt1 ,mesopotamia1 ,arabia _h to %[4 ,n = ! fir/ "t1 nor = ! la/1 did ,he see1 9 ,8 temptation1 8! k+doms ( ! _w & ! glory ( !m40 ,z ?is realisation becomes m & m di/9ct1 a new =ce is add$ to ! cont5tion t ,8 ,gospel is ! ,gospel = ! _w4 ,x 0 ?\ght out & fir/ prea*$ amid ! ?rong ( comm]ce1 & :ile ! d9 ( battle 0 z yet h>dly sil5t4 ,?is contact ( ,jesus ,*ri/ ) ,rome1 :i* "u ,paul's h& 0 to become ! mess5g] & in/rum5t ( ,8 k+dom1 is vividly associat$ ) two hill-tops 9 ,pale/9e4 ,"o ( !m is t height ne> ,naz>e?1 "s t5 m9utes di/ant f ! village well1 ! description ( ^: outlook closes ! *apt] on ,galilee 9 ! ,hi/orical ,geography ) ! well-kn[n passage ab\t ! boyhood ( ,jesus4 ,!re1 :ile ,he fac$ seaw>ds1 lay on ! left h& bel[ ,him ! w9e-col\r$1 battle-soak$ pla9 ( ,jezreel1 ) squadrons ( ! ,roman army m>*+ ea/ & we/ along x2 :ile on ! "r h& ! ,sepphoris ,road ran ribbon-l along ! ranges1 ) its con/ant /ream ( m]*&ise4 ,! o!r hill-top is t kn[n z 8,gordon's ,calv>y0 at ,j]usalem--a l[ & r\nd$ hillock j outside ! ,damascus ,gate4 ,if ?is be inde$ ! site ( ,calv>y1 ,*ri/ 0 crucifi$ on a w$ge ( gr\nd betwe5 a milit>y & a comm]cial road2 & 8!y t pass$ by wagg+ _! heads0 may h be5 soldi]s f ! ,t[] z well z m]*ants f ! ,nor!rn ,gate4 ,c]ta9 x is1 at lea/1 t ,rome 0 ab\t ,8 cradle & ,8 grave4 ,! e>lie/ n>ratives ( ,8 e>?ly c>e] br+ ,him to ,be?lehem to a ,roman taxation2 ! late/ /ory deliv]s ,him to a ,roman judge1 to ,roman soldi]s1 & to a ,roman cross4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,*ri/ian ,f ! invasion ( w>like ,rome we turn to t 8,peace & h] huge invasion0 :i* came to ! ,holy ,l& dur+ ! lat] days ( ! ,roman ,empire4 ,be=e ! "t ( ,con/ant9e ! ,*ur* 9 ,syria _h gr[n & spread ) su* />tl+ vitality & promise ( ev5 m abundant life z to br+ d[n ^u h] ! cruelty ( p]secutions4 ,9 ! nor? ! ,*ri/ian communities 7 ma9ly ,g5tile1 9 ! s\? ,jewi% ,*ri/ians4 ,!y mu/ h be5 intellectually z well z spiritually vigor\s1 = ! curi\s speculations & my/ic dreams ( ! ,gno/ics _h already1 9 ! second c5tury1 ga9$ foot+ 9 ,syrian ,*ri/ianity4 ,) ,con/ant9e 7#cbd-ccg7 ,roman p]secution ceas$ = ev]4 ,! ,jews 7 p]mitt$ to return to ,j]usalem1 & ! con/ruction ( ! writt5 ,talmud began its c>e] ( ?ree c5turies4 ,julian1 ! la/ emp]or on ! ?rone be=e ! ,empire divid$ into ea/ & we/1 _h apo/atis$ f ! ,*ri/ian fai? be=e 8 asc5sion1 & 9 #cfa he attempt$ ! re/oration ( ! temple 9 ,j]usalem z a /r5g? to ,judaism aga9/ ,*ri/ianity4 ,b ! ,galilean _h conqu]$1 & x 0 ! day ( ,*ri/4 ,! recognition ( ,*ri/ianity z ! religion ( ! ,/ate began a new era1 :i* ran on = a ?\s& ye>s 9 ! ,ea/]n ,empire1 until ! siege ( ,con/ant9ople *ang$ ! face ( ,europe 9 #adec4 ,! words ( ,dante w (t5 recur to ! /ud5t ( e>ly ,*ri/ian days 9 ,pale/9e3-- ,ah6 ,con/ant9e1 :at evil came z *ild ,n ( ?y *ange ( cre$1 b ( ! d[] ,( :i* ! fir/ ri* fa!r !e beguil$4 ,! ref]5ce is to ! leg5d ( 8,! ,donation ( ,con/ant9e10 by :i* he transf]r$ ,rome & ! /ates ( ! ,*ur* to ! ,papal ,see4 ,*ri/ianity 9 ,syria has run a /range c>e]4 ,up to ! "t ( ,con/ant9e ! ,*ur* 0 at bay1 fight+ a desp]ate battle aga9/ ! ,pagan _w4 ,at ,cs>ea especially1 b 9 _m ano!r ,roman t[n besides1 native ,syrians 7 =c$ und]gr\nd into caves & catacombs1 or br\ght to ! dea? 9 ! public games4 ,_m records ( ?is p]iod survive4 ,at ,sidon1 se>*+ ab\t among ! tombs :i* ,r5an has rec5tly explor$1 we came ^u a brok5 m>ble slab--evid5tly ! l9tel ( a *ur* rais$ 9 memory ( a local massacre ( ,*ri/ians--) ! ^w ,,m>turion inscrib$ on x4 ,! m>tyr monum5ts ( ,syria are wond]fully full ( peace1 hope1 & assurance4 ,l ,m>ius ! ,epicurean y feel1 :5 fir/ y come ^u !m1 t = ! fir/ "t y are see+ ! wond]ful spectacle ( ^? :o believe4 ,y und]/& 8 impression ( e =m ( human sorr[ assuag$--desire1 & ! fulfilm5t ( desire work+ on ! v faces ( ! ag$1 & ! "y m5 obvi\sly p]sons :o _h fac$ life & 7 glad4 ,& ! same wi/ful s5se ( a sure ^w ( revelation comes ^u ! behold] z t :i* appeal$ to him4 ,surely "h ! e>? 0 = once n =sak5 ( ! high] p[]s1 b visit$ & spok5 to & lov$6 ,aft] ,con/ant9e ! pilgrim takes ! place ( =emo/ int]e/1 :i* ! m>tyr previ\sly held4 ,f #dea1 :5 an indep5d5t patri>*ate 0 e/abli%$ at ,j]usalem1 pilgrimages became v frequ5t2 & a c5tury lat] !re 7 hospices ) #cjjj b$s 9 !m )9 ,j]usalem1 :ile trade ( _m sorts fl\ri%$ by _! aid4 ,9 ! olde/ it9]>ies !re are v curi\s acc\nts ( ^! pilgrimages2 b two1 :i* ,colonel ,cond] gives1 are especially qua9t & int]e/+4 ,!y ref] to lat] pilgrimages1 b are appropriate en\gh to e>li] ones4 ,! fir/ "o is f ,saewulf1 giv+ an acc\nt ( 8 l&+ at ,jaffa3 8,f 8 s9s1 or f ! badness ( ! %ip10 he 0 almo/ wreck$1 & 8 companions 7 dr[n$ be=e 8 eyes4 ,! o!r is ,sir ,john ,maundeville's--mo/ fasc9at+1 if mo/ unscrupul\s1 ( travell]s3 8,two miles f ,j]usalem is ,m\nt ,joy1 a v fair & delici\s place4 ,!re ,samuel ! prophet lies 9 a fair tomb2 & x is call$ ,m\nt ,joy because x gives joy to pilgrims' he>ts1 = f t place m5 fir/ see ,j]usalem40 ,f ! fir/1 pilgrimage seems to h _h its moral disadvantages & special temptations4 ,! ,turki% prov]b runs1 8,if y\r fri5d has made ! pilgrimage once1 di/ru/ him--if he has made ! pilgrimage twice1 cut him dead40 ,& x w\ld seem t ! ,*ri/ian pilgrim is n altoge!r 9 a position to ?r[ /ones at 8 ,moslem bro!r4 ,ap>t f any s9s to :i* ! fre$om ( travel 9 a f> l& may be suppos$ to tempt poor human nature1 !re are "s :i* are p> excell5ce pilgrim s9s4 ,?us we f9d 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury ! ,arm5ian patri>* compla9+ t ! seat 9 ! ,*apel ( ,/4 ,hel5a 9 :i* he us$ to sit _h be5 s hack$ to pieces by relic-hunt+ pilgrims t he 0 8frequ5tly oblig$ to r5ew x40 ,! case 0 all ! h>d] because x 0 n f its association ) ! patri>*1 b because ,/4 ,hel5a _h sat 9 x1 t x 0 s mu* 9 reque/6 ,if ,m>k ,twa9 be a true report]1 !re are pilgrims :o h inh]it$ t p>ticul> k9d ( moral frailty ) rem>kable fidelity to ! mann]s ( _! pr$ecessors4 ,!n aga91 ! pilgrimages1 :i* ev]y:]e /imulat$ trade1 creat$ an amaz+ am\nt ( fraud 9 ! sale ( false relics & o!r su* traffic4 ,dr4 ,conan ,doyle's picture ( ! pilgrim 9 ,france1 :o takes a nail f ! box ( a blacksmi? & sells x to unsuspect+ soldi]s z "o ( ^? :i* 7 driv5 into ! wood ( ! true ,cross1 is drawn f ! life4 ,ev5 on ! sacr$ spots !mselves ! simplicity ( pilgrims has always be5 a temptation to cu/odians4 ,a tale is told ( "s "o :o1 only a ye> or two ago1 dropp$ by accid5t a ,bible d[n ! dry %aft ( ,jacob's ,well4 ,! ,bible 0 reclaim$ )9 a few days1 b :5 br\ght up x 0 a m]e mass ( pulp4 ,a l>ge p>ty ( pilgrims _h visit$ ! place 9 ! int]val1 & _h pr(ess$ a /rong desire to dr9k wat] f ! fam\s well4 ,a small /ream1 conv5i5tly div]t$ to ! well m\?1 _h enabl$ ! prie/ 9 *>ge to gratify _! desire by draughts ( wat] drawn f ! dep?s be=e _! eyes4 ,! pilgrim is /ill extant4 ,= well-nigh two ?\s& ye>s he has come & gone1 a t\ri/ :o has always _h an imm5se comm]cial value = ! ,holy ,l&4 ,! levy made on pilgrims at ! gate ( ,j]usalem 0 "o ( ! pr9cipal causes ( ! ,crusades1 & x is h>dly m ?an a hundr$ ye>s s9ce a heavy tax 0 impos$ ^u e pilgrim :5 he rea*$ ! gate ( ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re4 ,! great] "p ( ^? :o come n[ are ,russians4 ,jaffa is full ( !m1 b !y are to be se5 9 long c>avans ( p$e/rians1 ) a donkey or two be>+ all _! scanty luggage1 z f> nor? z ,sam>ia & ,galilee4 ,! m5 are typical ,russian peasants1 9 ! bl\ses & caps t are s famili>4 ,_! long hair may be fair or d>k1 b x is always matt$ & co>se4 ,! wom51 ) _! good1 wea!r-beat5 faces1 are uncommonly l old-fa%ion$ peasant wom5 f ! nor!rn ,scotti% c\ntrysides4 ,_! head-dress is a simple k]*ief1 & _! h&s grasp a rude pilgrim /aff poli%$ ) mu* we>4 ,! privations ( su* pilgrimages mu/ be v great4 ,!y involve ! exp5diture ( a lifetime's sav+s1 & a j\rney 9 _m cases ( at lea/ six mon?s4 ,mo/ ( ?is is done on foot1 & l>gely by p :o are gr[+ old4 ,!re is no nation t c\ld s5d =? su* multitudes except 8r\gh b believ+ ,russia40 ,! belief is ev]y?+4 ,!y are v poor p1 & v ignorant & simple4 ,yet _m ^: m9ds' conflict seems only to gr[ /]n] 9 ?is l& ( contradictions1 may own )\t %ame to a t\* ( some?+ l envy z !y see ! exaltation ( _! *ildi% fai?4 ,!y encompass ! walls ( ,j]usalem to ! /ra9s ( ,psalms1 & m>* triumphantly to ! s& s\? ( ,jaffa = %ells to au!nticate _! travels1 su* z ^? :i* appe> on ! coats-(-arms ( "s ,european families1 tell+ ( =m] pilgrimages4 ,m]e *ildr5 9 intellect1 ! gleam 9 _! eyes tells t 9 _! own pa!tic way !y h ent]$ "h into a v]itable k+dom ( heav54 ,! objects ( pilgrimage are some:at gruesome 9 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,dome ,,( ,,! ,,rock 7,,mosque ,,( ,,om>71 ,,z ,,se5 ,,f ,,! ,,por* ,,on ,,! ,,nor? ,,side ,,( ,,! ,,mosque ,,el ,,aksa4 _! way4 ,a fav\rite ambition us$ to be t ( measur+ ! 8/one ( ano9t+0 9 ! ,holy ,sepul*re1 9 ord] to h ! pilgrim's own w9d+-%eet made ! same l5g?4 ,! great goal1 h[ev]1 is ! ,jordan1 ^: banks at ! p]iod aft] ,con/ant9e us$ to be pav$ ) m>ble4 ,9 ! old "t a wood5 cross 0 erect$ 9 mid-/ream1 & ! wat]s 7 bless$ by a prie/1 aft] :i* ! pilgrims tumbl$ 9 ) su* ha/e t numb]s ( !m 7 dr[n$4 ,"h1 too1 ! w9d+-%eet is 9 evid5ce4 ,besides ! flask ( ,jordan wat] :i* !y fill1 !y dip _! own w9d+-%eets & ^? ( fri5ds at home :o h be5 unable to come 9 p]son1 b h s5t ^! pale sub/itutes4 ,x 0 n our good =tune to see ! m]ry b& ( pilgrims at ! ,jordan1 ?\gh we met scatt]$ gr\ps ( ,russians 9 _m places4 ,"o o!r pilgrim we saw1 & he accompani$ u ?r\gh sev]al days' m>* nor?w>d4 ,he 0 a jet-black ,abyss9ian--a lonely & sil5t figure clad f head to foot 9 a loose robe ( pure :ite sackclo?4 ,he w5t ) u to ,naz>e?1 ! de/9ation ( 8 pilgrimage4 ,8 only ^w 9 common ) u 0 8,*ri/ianus10 & he always b[$ & cross$ himself :5 he said x4 ,all day long he walk$ 9 sil5ce 9 our company4 ,he ask$ = no?+1 b ate ! meat he receiv$ 9 s+l5ess ( he>t1 & sat ap>t wat*+ ! load+ & unload+ ( ! baggage ) ! eyes ( a great *ild4 ,:ile s _m ,*ri/ians paid a pass+ visit to ,pale/9e 9 ! e>ly days1 !re 7 "s :o came to /ay4 ,x 0 ! "t ( ! rise ( mona/ic in/itutions1 :i* fir/ appe> 9 ! beg9n+ ( ! f\r? c5tury4 ,_! hi/ory f ! fir/ is peculi>ly associat$ ) ,syria1 into :i* !y spread almo/ imm$iately aft] _! />t 9 ,egypt4 ,"s ( ! mo/ fam\s ( ! e>ly recluses1 includ+ ev5 ,/4 ,symeon ,/ylites himself1 7 ( ,syrian orig94#bj ,^! ascetics 7 ! natural successors ( ! m>tyrs4 ,! fir/ h9ts ( !m are giv5 dur+ ! "t ( e>li] m>tyrdoms1 = x is record$ t ,*ri/ians z e>ly z ! ,decian p]secutions fl$ to ! wild]ness & l$ a life !re :i* 0 soon to become popul> beyond all possibility ( =eca/4 ,x 0 n1 h[ev]1 until ,con/ant9e's fav\r _h secul>is$ ! ,*ur*1 or at lea/ _h made easy t life :i* hi!rto _h be5 s dang]\s1 t ! reaction set 9 :i* gave mona/icism its great hold on ! _w4 ,?is is g5]ally expla9$ z a matt] solely ( prote/ aga9/ gr[+ worldl9ess1 or a developm5t ( t curi\s k9d ( 8o!r-worldl9ess0 :i* f9ds 9 asceticism ! sure/ means ( atta9+ e>?ly fame & heav5ly rew>d4 ,no d\bt bo? ^! elem5ts are true4 ,9 ! e>ly ascetics !re 0 a self-d5ial prompt$ by ! pure/ desire = escape f ! defil+ society ( _! "t into ! spiritual cleanness ( ! fai?1 & f its h>d & co>se mat]ialism into ! delicate ideality & ref9em5t ( ,*ri/ian ?\ght & feel+4 ,x 0 also1 on ! o!r h&1 a refuge & an outlet = mu* ( ! ineffici5cy & moral wor?lessness ( ! "t1 :i* f\nd 9 its fre$om f social re/ra9t & its wide leisure ?+s exactly to _! own ta/e4 ,b beh9d all ?is !re is ano!r fact :i* is really ! mo/ significant ( all4 ,mona/icism 0 8! comp5sation = m>tyrdom40 ,read]s ( ! lett]s ( ,ignatius are famili> ) t mania = m>tyrdom :i* dur+ p]secut+ times took possession ( s _m 9 ! ,*ur*4 ,9 abnormal & extreme conditions su* z ^!1 c]ta9 m9ds gr[ hy/]ical & lose _! p]spective & s5se ( proportion altoge!r4 ,9 su* m9ds a morbid & passionate delight 9 pa9 develops into a sort ( lu/--a religiosa cupiditas--= suff]+ torture1 j z 9 ! p]secutors cruelty becomes a lu/ = inflict+ x4 ,s asceticism (f]$ itself :5 m>tyrdom c\ld no long] be _h--8a volunt>y m>tyrdom1 a gradual self-de/ruction1 a sort ( religi\s suicide40#ba ,! new ideal pass$ ?r\gh sev]al successive phases4 ,f an unorganis$ & individual way ( life )9 ! ,*ur*1 x develop$ fir/ into an*oretism ab\t ! beg9n+ ( ! f\r? c5tury4 ,9 b>r5 & solit>y places1 :]e life at be/ 0 prec>i\s & physical enjoym5t impossible1 e cave & d5 _h its t5ant4 ,on ,m\nt ,s9ai "o h]mit is said to h liv$ = fifty ye>s 9 absolute solitude1 sil5ce1 & nak$ness4 ,z y ride d[n ! t]rific gorges f ,m> ,saba to ! ,dead ,sea1 y pass along precipit\s hillsides & rock-faces :i* appe> lit]ally riddl$ ) small caves & holes 9 ! rock & s&4 ,^!1 :i* n[ s]ve = a cov]t f ! heat = pass+ %eph]ds1 or = ! lairs ( jackals1 7 once populat$ by h]mits4 ,sa9t ,saba is said to h collect$ ! bones ( no few] ?an #aj1jjj solit>y dwell]s 9 ?is di/rict1 :o _h fall5 victims to ! ,c>ismians4 ,& 9 _m p>ts ( ,syria ev5 n[1 a hillside :i* dur+ ! day has seem$ b>r5 ( all human habitation1 is unexpect$ly illum9at$ ) h]mits' lights--^? 8h&s pray+ to ,god0--9 ! d>k4 ,! en?usiasm ) :i* ?is dre>y life has fill$ "s ( its devotees may be realis$ 9 ! foll[+ l9es f an epi/le ( ,/4 ,j]ome3--8,o des]t1 :]e ! fl[]s ( ,*ri/ are bloom+6 ,o solitude1 :]e ! /ones = ! new ,j]usalem are prep>$6 ,o retreat1 :i* rejoices 9 ! fri5d%ip ( ,god6 ,:at doe/ ?\ 9 ! _w1 my bro!r1 ) ?y s\l great] ?an ! _w8 ,h[ long wilt ?\ rema9 9 ! %ad[ ( ro(s1 & 9 ! smoky dungeon ( cities8 ,believe me1 ,i see "h m ( ! light40#bb ,x 0 9 cloi/] life1 h[ev]--at fir/ 9 small] communities & !n on ! l>ge scale ( _m cloi/]s ga!r$ "u a common rule--t e>ly ,*ri/ianity rea*$ its full developm5t4 ,besides ! native e/abli%m5ts1 !re 01 9 ! fir/ c5turies aft] ,con/ant9e1 a cl\d ( religieux1 fly+ l hom+ doves across ! sea to alight & quietly settle d[n on holy soil4 ,^! e/abli%m5ts _h _m faults4 ,!y p]petuat$ little sect>ian diff]5ces & exagg]at$ !m into q ridicul\s importance4 ,! v lamps t hang 9 ! olde/ *ur*es are d5om9ational1 & are divid$ ) a *ildi% ari?metic among rival sects4 ,! insi/5ce ( ^! on _! respective rights is su* t a gu>d ( arm$ ,moslem soldi]s has to be kept p]petually on ! spot to keep ! peace4 ,yet !re is a spl5did da% ( c\rage 9 ?is "p ( ,*ur* ,hi/ory1 :i* _c possibly h be5 all 9 va94 ,x mu/ h be5 an excit+ life 9 "s ( ! outpo/ /ations 9 ^! old days4 8,x is true10 says ,w>burton ( "o mona/]y1 8! monks 7 occasionally massacr$ by ! ,s>ac5s1 ,turks1 & ,c>ismians1 b _! m>tyrdom only gave fre% int]e/ to ! spot 9 ! eyes ( _! successors40 ,no d\bt ^! e/abli%m5ts dra9$ ! _w ( "s ( its be/ manhood1 & div]t$ mu* greatly ne$$ en]gy f family life & /ate loyalties2 yet1 on ! o!r h&1 ^! 7 ! soldi]s ( ! ,cross :o !n f\ght ! paganism ( ! _w & conqu]$ x4 ,mona/ic e/abli%m5ts /ill rema91 & supply mu*-ne$$ inns to _m ?\s&s ( poor travell]s 9 ,syria4 ,!y v>y by v wide degrees ( diff]5ce f "o ano!r4 ,by f> ! wor/ place we saw 9 ,pale/9e--"o ( ! wor/ p]haps t c\ld be se5 any:]e--is ! conv5t ( ,m> ,saba ne> ! ,dead ,sea4 ,com+ out on ! high ridge ( ! ,judean m\nta9 c\ntry1 we caught a glimpse ( two t[]s1 :i* we h already describ$1#bc squ>e & bl9d1 & s pitilessly unsugge/ive t !y seem$1 z x 71 built into ! des]t1 or "p ( its fanta/ic (fspr+4 ,!y 7 ! mo/ unhomely build+s we _h ev] se51 & !y are ! ne>e/ po9t to :i* wom5 are all[$ to approa* ! mona/]y1 lady travell]s be+ accommodat$ ) cells !re if !y h n t5ts4 ,by & by we pass$ betwe5 !m1 d[n a road s /eep z to be practically a /airway1 on e /ep ( :i* loa?somely dirty begg>s sat ply+ _! trade4 ,9 ! c\rty>d to :i* ?is entrance l$ 7 two monks1 fat & /upid-look+1 :o br\ght out /r+s ( beads1 ros>ies1 & crosses ( _! own manufacture = sale4 ,hav+1 app>5tly1 absolutely no?+ to d1 ! mak+ ( ^! ?+s may be tak5 = sign ( ent]prise & comm]cial g5ius1 b z "t is evid5tly valueless1 !y sell _! "w v *eap4 ,to ! "r is a rock1 holl[$ out into a *amb] or broad gall]y1 :i* is sacr$ z hav+ be5 ! %r9e ( ,sa9t ,saba's devotions4 ,! entrance is viol5tly col\r$ 9 wa%es ( blue & :ite pa9t1 s crude & aggressive t x q robs ! pictures 9 ! int]ior ( _! horror1 & prep>es y to look ) uncl\d$ eye ^u ! skulls :i* fill ! grill$ recesses4 ,"o ( ^! skulls is set 9 front1 to receive ! kisses ( dev\t pilgrims4 ,x is deeply worn & poli%$4 ,:5 x has actually be5 worn ?r\gh to a hole x w be replac$1 z o!rs h be5 be=e x4 ,across ! c\rty>d y foll[ n>r[ /airs & gall]ies t run irregul>ly along ! edge ( a precipice2 = ! mona/]y has affix$ itself to ! face ( a cliff f\r hundr$ feet high4 ,x cl+s !re1 support$ by huge fly+ buttresses t spr+ f ! dep?s bel[ 9 a fa%ion :i*1 z "o writ] says1 rem9d y ( pictures ( ,bel%azz>'s fea/4 ,! cells ( ! monks1 little disconnect$ 8lean-to0 %$s or caves1 h ! ,greek cross ^u _! doors1 & ! (t5-repeat$ inscription1 8,o ,*ri/1 abide ) u60 ,"h & !re are a few plants 9 pots1 or a feeble attempt at re>+ vegetables 9 little g>d5 pat*es :i* fill 9 any foot ( level among ! _m-corn]$ build+s2 :ile 9 "o cranny gr[s ! solit>y date-palm :i* ,sa9t ,saba plant$ m ?an #acjj ye>s ago4 ,at e few y>ds y pause to look ov] a l[ balu/rade into ! gorge1 :i* "h is a sort ( yell[-o*re gulf1 ) all ! horror b none ( ! ri* dep? ( col\r+ t belongs to frightful abysses4 ,ov] ^! walls ! monks ?r[ meat to ! jackals :i* come & fight = x bel[4 ,occasionally1 z we pass$1 a face 0 visible at a w9d[1 g5]ally ei!r wiz5$ & dri$ up1 or ) a :ite1 neurotic appe>ance t 0 almo/ m repulsive4 ,ev]y:]e dirt reign$ supreme--unspeakable fil? 9 op5 dra9s & putrid litt]4 ,9 "o place1 :]e ! smell 0 sick5+1 a monk 0 ly+ asleep by ! side ( a brok5 dra91 cov]$ ) flies 9 great black masses on 8 face & arms4 ,9 ano!r place an abom9able-look+ di% ( food1 fly-bl[n & disgu/+1 0 pu%$ ) a spoon 9 x half ?r\gh a hole brok5 9 ! bottom ( a cell door4 ,& ev]y:]e ?r\gh\t ?is palace ( disgu/ 0 to be read ! pray]1 8,o ,*ri/1 abide ) u60 ,t 0 ! wor/4 ,m> ,saba is a sort ( comb9ation ( prison & asylum1 :]e lunatics are kept "u ! *>ge ( monks condemn$ to ?is place = h]esy or immorality4 ,o!r mona/]ies we saw1 ( a v diff]5t k9d4 ,our t5ts preclud$ ! necessity = our mak+ any ( ^! our home = ! night1 b 9 _m cases x w\ld h be5 v pleasant to d s4 ,on ! top ( ,tabor1 at ,tell ,hum on ! ,sea ( ,galilee1 & 9 o!r places1 we 7 receiv$ & ent]ta9$ ) ! mo/ cordial & g5]\s hospitality4 ,! clean & spaci\s gue/-*amb]s are op5 to all com]s4 ,!y are adorn$ ) photographs ( v>i\s sorts1 & (t5 conta9 a cab9et ( r>e local curiosities4 ,! bro!rs 9 *>ge ( ^! e/abli%m5ts 7 f9e g5ial m51 c\rage\sly fac+ ! risks ( fev] 9 deadly spots1 or v>y+ _! hospitable lab\rs on ! heights by long seasons ( /udy 7= "s ( !m are di/+ui%$ s*ol>s72 b always ready to meet a /rang] z a fri5d1 & to *at ) him 9 ,fr5* or ,g]man1 ov] a pipe ( ,we/]n tobacco1 ab\t ! great _w f :i* !y _h gone s f>4 ,9 all ^! ways ! _m-sid$ life ( ! old ,*ri/ian days l+]s & may /ill be se54 ,b x ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,dome ,,( ,,! ,,rock 7,,mosque ,,( ,,om>74 ,f ! b>racks ne> ! site ( ! ,t[] ( ,antonia4 ,! nor? por* ( ! ,dome ( ! ,rock is t[>ds ! spectator2 to ! left is ! ,dome ( ! ,*a92 to ! "r1 9 ! middle di/ance1 is ! ,mosque ( ,el ,aksa4 l+]s m impressively 9 ! mo/ anci5t ( ! *ur*es :i* date f ?is p]iod4 ,!re is 9 ,pale/9e an a/oni%+ numb] ( ru9s ( old ,*ri/ian *ur*es1 _m ( !m dat+ back1 at lea/ s f> z _! f\ndations g1 to ! ,byzant9e p]iod4 ,!re are _m mod]n *ur*es1 b !y are n z a rule impressive4 ,ev5 :51 z 9 ! ,russian *ur* at ,ge?semane1 ! build+ is 9 itself ri* & co/ly1 x is s irrelevant z to r\se a feel+ ( rebellion4 ,mo/ ( ! anci5t *ur*es h utt]ly vani%$1 l t ro(less basilica :i* ,con/ant9e built on ! suppos$ sc5e ( ! ,asc5sion on ! ,m\nt ( ,olives4 ,9 o!r cases !y are m]e heaps ( ru91 l ! rema9+ fragm5ts ( ! ,*ur* ( ,jacob's ,well1 :i* 0 built ab\t ! middle ( ! f\r? c5tury1 & has be5 sev]al times rebuilt s9ce !n4 ,?is *ur* takes mo/ travell]s by surprise4 ,!y g expect+ an out-door sc5e1 ) all ! h>ve/ breeze ( ! ,scripture /ory on x4 ,!y f9d a newly built :ite wall1 gl>+ 9 ! sun%9e4 ,?r\gh a gate 9 ?is wall !y are admitt$ by c]ta9 brok5-d[n-look+ p]sons 9 ! gre5i%-black g>m5ts ( ! ,greek cl]gy4 ,)9 ! gate1 a few /eps br+ !m to ! edge ( a sort ( oblong pit full ( masonry4 ,x is ! nave ( ! old *ur*1 & ! spl5didly c>v$ pill>s ( its :ite /one %[ h[ beautiful x mu/ h be54 ,a door 9 ! sunk side-wall op5s ^u a gro9$ vault newly rebuilt4 ,9 ! dim light y c disc]n 9 ! c5tre a r\gh /one alt>1 ) c&les & lamps & a c\ple ( execrable pictures ( ,*ri/ & ! woman ( ,sy*>4 ,on ! gr\nd be=e ! alt> is a flat /one p]=at$ ) a hole two feet 9 diamet]4 ,?is is ! cov] ( ! well1 & a second cl]ical p]son1 badly m>k$ ) smallpox1 lets d[n a twi/ ( light$ c&les by a long rope1 :ile a little gre5 lamp ( silv] hangs above1 dripp+ oil /eadily d[n ! well4 ,surely ?is is ! infatuation ( rev]5ce6 ,if !re is any memory ( ,jesus :i* is ess5tially ( ! op5 air1 x is ?is incid5t ( ! ,well ( ,sam>ia4 ,yet rev]5ce mu/ build its d>k *amb]1 & proce$ to illum9ate ) c&les ! spot :]e ,jesus sat & saw ! miles & miles ( wav+ fields1 :ite already to h>ve/4 ,no d\bt ! *ur* dates f ! f\r? c5tury2 b :at "r _h ev5 ! anci5ts to build a *ur* "h1 to keep m5 busy ) _! sect>ianism on ! v spot :]e !y & all ! _w 7 told t ! h\r 0 come :5 nei!r 9 ?is m\nta9 nor yet at ,j]usalem w\ld ! ,fa!r be wor%ipp$1 b 9 _s & 9 tru?8 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 two great *ur*es ( ?is anci5t "t :i* wak5 feel+s v diff]5t f ^!2 !y h be5 = c5turies ! c5tres ( ,*ri/ian int]e/ & devotion 9 ! l&1 cov]+1 z !y are suppos$ to d1 ! sites ( ! bir? & dea? ( ,jesus ,*ri/4 ,9 "s respects !y are alike4 ,! outsides ( !m are huddl$ & pack$ toge!r1 a het]og5e\s mass ( app>5tly unrelat$ build+s4 ,! insides are n1 l ! h\ses1 ,rembr&t /udies 9 int5se light & %ad[4 ,by "s skilful arrangem5t1 ! sunlight seems to be caught & diffus$ 9 a pale lum9\s twilight t s9ks gradually to d>kness 9 *apels & recesses1 & bl5ds ) ! light ( _m lamps & c&les n unpleas+ly4 ,! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re is ! gift ( ,/4 ,hel5a1 "m ( ,con/ant9e1 & 0 consecrat$ by h] 9 ,a4,d4 #ccf4 ,tradition relates h[1 at ! age ( sev5ty-n9e1 %e made h] pilgrimage to ,j]usalem1 0 baptiz$ 9 ,jordan1 discov]$ ! true ,cross1 & built ! *ur* ^u ! spot ( its discov]y4 ,our guide-book tells u ( an ante-*amb] 8:]e ,ori5tal ,*ri/ians are 9 ! habit ( remov+ _! %oes1 ?\gh we ne$ n foll[ _! example40 ,yet ! ,crusad]s ent]$ x b>efoot$1 ?\gh ) songs ( praise1 a ?\s& ye>s ago2 & ! impulse ( mo/ ,*ri/ians1 h[ev] little !y may be dispos$ to believe 9 ! id5tity ( ! sacr$ sites )91 w be to %>e ! v5]ation ( ! ,ea/]ns4 ,n t :at we see n[ is ! orig9al build+4 ,t 0 a rotunda & a basilica1 ! =m] q o!r ?an ! pres5t rotunda1 z we "k f ! fact t x =m$ ! model = ! ,mosque ( ,om>4 ,x has suff]$ _m ?+s f assault1 f decay1 f fire1 & f rebuild+4 ,9 ! twelf? c5tury ! :ole gr\p ( deta*$ %r9es & monum5ts 0 includ$ = ! fir/ "t 9 "o huge & complicat$ build+4 ,probably no su* pat*work 9 /one is to be se5 else:]e 9 ! _w4 ,yet ea* rebuild+ f\nd _m ( ! old] mat]ials ready = its use1 & incorporat$ !m 9 ! new] "w4 ,?us ! columns at ! ea/]n door are suppos$ to h come f "s anci5t pagan temple1 & ! pres5t f\ndations ( ! pill>s belong to ! old rotunda4 ,! capitals ( _m pill>s are ,byzant9e1 :ile ! p9k lime/one column :i* is emb$d$ 9 ! wall to ! "r ( ! ea/]n entrance is also v anci5t4 ,x is a /range conglom]ation ( imag9>y associations & real value ( mat]ial4 ,! atmosph]e is at times dreadful en\gh )9 to ju/ify t d>+ little t\* ( realism 9 ! ,fr5* bas-relief ov] ! door1 :]e "s ( ! spectators at ! rais+ ( ,laz>us are hold+ _! noses ) _! h&s6 ,! *apel ( ! ,empress adjo9s ! alt> ( ! ,p5it5t ,?ief2 ,adam & ,abraham jo/le ea* o!r = /&+ gr\nd "u ! sacr$ ro(2 ! /one ( ano9t+ has be5 8(t5 *ang$0 accord+ to ! guide-book1 & ! column ( sc\rg+ 8judg+ f ! n>ratives ( diff]5t pilgrims1 mu/ frequ5tly h *ang$ its col\r & its size0--yet pilgrims poke a /ick at x & kiss ! "p t has t\*$ ! /one to-day4 ,e incid5t ( ! _w's great trag$y is commemorat$ !re1 f ! footpr9t ( ,jesus to ! silv] socket 9 ! rock :]e ,8 ,cross 0 erect$4 ,futile en\gh all ?is1 & ev5 we>isome4 ,b ! wor%ip ( fifte5 hundr$ ye>s is nei!r futile nor we>isome4 ,& t wor%ip seems to deta* itself f ! leg5ds & f9d its embodim5t 9 ! m>vels ( preci\s /one t are ga!r$ !re4 ,z "o sees ! slabs ( co/ly /one ) :i* ! rock is ov]laid--! ruddy yell[ slab ( ! 8ano9t+10 ! r$ & :ite poli%$ lime/one ( ! c5tral %r9e1 ! gre5 s]p5t9e & ! black basalt--"o rememb]s ! tomb :i* ! ,roman bi%op ord]$ 9 ,/4 ,prax$'s1 ) its 8pea*-blossom m>ble10 its lump ( lapis lazuli1 8blue z a ve9 o'er ! ,madonna's brea/10 & its block ( jasp]1 8pure gre5 z a pi/a*io-nut40 ,b !re is a diff]5ce4 ,! /ones ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re 7 giv5 9 love3 !y are ! tribute ( _m s\ls ^: adoration 0 ! noble/ feature ( _! times4 ,! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,nativity at ,be?lehem is a simpl] &1 to _m m9ds1 a m impressive /ructure4 ,x consi/s ( a broad nave1 entirely scre5$ (f f :at lies beyond1 ) two r\nd$ transepts & a r\nd$ apse beh9d ! scre5--?is trefoil-%ap$ inn] build+ be+ ! *ur* prop]4 ,"o ( ! transepts is ! prop]ty ( ! ,arm5ians2 ! o!r1 toge!r ) ! great alt> 9 ! apse1 belongs to ! ,greeks4 ,bel[ ! great alt>-rail 789 ! brea/ ( ,god10 9 ,dante's language7 is ! cave ( ! ,nativity1 ) /eps lead+ d[n to x f ei!r transept4 ,a ,mohamm$an soldi] /&s at ! bottom to keep ! peace betwe5 ,*ri/ians4 ,! transepts & apse are ablaze ) lamps & hang+s4 ,bel[1 ! 8mang]0 is ov]laid ) col\r$ m>ble1 & ! rock is entirely cov]$ ) yell[ silk clo?1 on :i* are /amp$ ! insignia ( ! ,franciscans--an arm ( ,*ri/ cross$ ) an arm ( ,/4 ,francis1 bo? %ew+ ! pr9t ( nails 9 ! palms ( _! h&s4 ,all ?is1 & ! air ( r>ee-%[ t exhibits s _m spots :]e somebody or o!r /ood1 de/roy any l+]+ cr$ulity ( :i* a man may /ill f9d himself capable2 !y make "o r a%am$1 & glad to escape4 ,b ! nave is mighty 9 its simplicity1 & no less mighty 9 its weal? ( hi/orical association4 ,x is a great sev]e oblong basilica1 ) f\r r[s ( massive pill>s giv+ d\ble aisles4 ,old glass & old mosaics add _! appropriate weal? ( sombre beauty4 ,! raft]s1 replac+ ,con/ant9e's beams ( c$> f ,lebanon1 are ! gift ( ,philip ( ,burgundy4 ,lead = ! ro( 0 s5t by ,edw>d ,,iv4 ( ,engl&4 ,mo/ impressive ( all is ! old pla9 font ( poli%$ /one1 ) its ,greek inscription--n1 l s _m su* inscriptions1 a record ( ! donor's "n1 b a pray] = ,god's bless+ ^u ^? :o gave x--8^: names are kn[n to ,!e only40 ,op9ions diff] z to ! plausibility ( ! claim to ! site ( our ,"l's nativity2 b ?is *ur* 0 built by ,con/ant9e1 & ! ,vulgate 0 writt5 9 x by ,j]ome4 ,& s9ce t "t ! feet ( c\ntless millions ( wor%ipp]s h trodd5 its /one pavem5t--a consecration 9 itself wor? _m traditional sanctities4 ,9 ?is *apt] we h s\ght to ga!r ! mo/ obvi\s survivals ( t old ,*ri/ian invasion ( ,pale/9e :i* foll[$ next aft] ! ,roman4 ,almo/ inevitably we f9d ourselves qu>rell+ ) ! leg5d>y lore t has /ultifi$ s _m v5]able build+s & associations4 ,yet 9 its leg5ds too ! e>ly ,*ur* survives1 & "s ( !m embody et]nal tru?s 9 =ms ( r>e beauty4 ,take ?ree ( ! leg5ds ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re by way ( example4 ,!y %[ ! spot :]e ! "o-ey$ soldi] ,long9us1 :o pi]c$ ! side ( ,*ri/1 receiv$ back ! lo/ eyesight at ! t\* ( a drop ( ! blood4 ,!re1 too1 is ! cleft 9 ! rock ?r\gh :i* blood fl[$ f ! ,cross d[n into ! tomb ( ,adam1 ^: corpse came to life at once4 ,& !re1 on ,ea/] ,eve1 ! %am miracle ( ! 8,holy ,fire0 has be5 enact$ annually = at lea/ a ?\s& ye>s4 ,:o c miss ! und]ly+ tru? b5ea? ^! leg5ds8 ,!y are1 = all b ! ignorant & ! gross1 symbols ( ! et]nal heal+ & quick5+ p[] t ! love & sacrifice ( ,*ri/ ex]t on humanity & ev5 on ,8 enemies4 ,! tor*-be>]s1 :o k9dle _! fires at ! blaze on ,ea/] ,eve1 & spe$ !nce to ,be?lehem & o!r t[ns to light f x ! c&les wait+ on _m alt>s1 tell _! own exhil>at+ lesson4 ,two o!r leg5ds may be m5tion$1 :i* ! ,we/]n _w owes to ! ,syrian ,*ur*--^? ( ,/4 ,george & ,/4 ,*ri/oph]4 ,/4 ,george1 :o 0 a ,roman soldi] "u ,diocletian1 0 m>tyr$ 9 ,a4,d4 #cjc4 ,8 memory1 mix$ up ) ! ,greek my? ( ,p]seus & ,&rom$a1 & ) ,crusad] /ories ( ,ri*>d ,cur de ,lion1 /&s = ! victory ( fai? ov] paganism4 ,/4 ,*ri/oph] w\ld only foll[ ! /ronge/1 & f9d+ t 8 ma/] ! devil 0 afraid ( ,*ri/1 r5\nc$ 8 s]vice & set out to seek ,him :o 0 /ronge/ ( all4 ,! po9t ( ! /ory is t1 aft] seek+ ,*ri/ f> & wide1 he f\nd ,him :ile he 0 p]=m+ ! humble task ( c>ry+ pass5g]s across a riv]4 ,x is *>act]i/ic ( ! pilgrim po9t ( view t leg5d has fix$ ?is sc5e n by "s homely ,g]man /ream b at ! =ds ( ,jordan1 :]e he is said to h c>ri$ ! infant ,*ri/ across ^u 8 %\ld]4 ,ev5 ( su* leg5ds no wise man w speak ) scorn4 ,!y1 too1 are monum5ts ( t conque/ ( ,*ri/ :i* gives its mean+ & its glory to ! ,*ri/ian invasion4 ,illu/ration3 ,,int]ior ,,( ,,! ,,mosque ,,( ,,el ,,aksa1 ,,f ,,! ,,s\?-,,ea/4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,moslem ,mohamm$anism is ! religion :i* is ev]y:]e 9 evid5ce 9 ! ,ea/ to-day4 ,f ! sm>t ,turki% (fic] :o drops 9 to smoke a cig>ette ) y 9 ! t5t aft] d9n]1 & discusses ,european politics 9 excell5t ,fr5*1 d[n to ! begg> :o besee*es y 9 ! "n ( ,allah = a pipeful ( tobacco or ! end ( y\r cig>1 y\r acqua9tance 9 ,syria is ,moslem4 ,f ! consecration ( ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re to ! ,moslem capture ( ,j]usalem 0 exactly ?ree hundr$ ye>s4 ,:51 9 #fcg1 ,j]usalem fell1 ,damascus _h already fall51 & ,antio* 0 to foll[ next ye>--all )9 sixte5 ye>s ( ! beg9n+ ( ! ,mohamm$an era4 ,! conque/ 0 inevitable4 ,fir/ ,p]sia & !n ! scatt]$ tribes ( pagan ,arabs _h prov$ too mu* = ! ,byzant9e empire 9 ,syria4 ,!n ! man appe>$ :o und]/ood 8 opportunity4 ,! ,ea/]n _w 0 9 confusion4 ,hea!ns con/itut$ ! rul+ race1 ! ,jews 7 scatt]$ 9 _! disp]sion1 & ! ,*ri/ians torn into _m fragm5t>y h]etical sects4 ,x 0 ! mom5t = a great union ( scatt]$ =ces4 ,! ,arabs 7 unit$ by ! new fai? 9 ,god1 = :i* !y ab&on$ _! paganism ) a m>vell\s will+ness4 ,! bond ( union ) ,*ri/ians & ,jews 0 ! common ance/ry 9 ,abraham by :i* ,mohamm$ hop$ to rally & unite ! ,syrian _w4 ,"o %>p battle at ! ,y>muk ?rew ,syria op5 to 8 advance1 & ! crisis ( ! fai? 0 pa/4 ,mohamm$ has be5 decl>$ an impo/or1 :o f fir/ to la/ won 8 way by clev]ness )\t fai?2 he has be5 idealis$ z a h]o & pr9ce ( h]oes 9 ! religi\s _w4 ,dean ,milman1 p]haps1 is wise/ :5 he says1 8,to ! "q :e!r ,mohamm$ 0 h]o1 sage1 impo/or1 or fanatic 444 ! be/ reply is ! rev]5tial phrase ( ,islam3 #8,god kn[s4'0 ,"o ?+ is c]ta91 viz41 t he f\nd$ a religion :i* prov$ itself capable ( wak5+ response f ! ,semitic ,ea/ ) a swiftness & a complet5ess nev] else:]e kn[n4 ,x w\ld be a matt] ( r s]i\s consequ5ces to affirm t su* sweep+ success is possible )\t any ve/ige ( hone/ fai? on ! "p ( its own prophet4 ,arabia f\nd ,islam a religion aft] h] own he>t4 ,! conque/ ( ! ,arabian m9d1 & t sudd5 transf]5ce ( religi\s & political loyalties :i* *ang$ x f *aos into cosmos1 is little %ort ( miracul\s4 ,9 ! words ( "o ( ! sev]e/ critics ( ,islam3 8,9 ,a4,d4 #egj1 ,abdullah1 ! son ( ,abd el ,muttalib1 a ,mecca m]*ant1 w5t on a trad+ trip f ,mecca to ,m$9a & di$ !re2 ! same ye> 8 wife1 ,am9a1 gave bir? to a boy1 nam$ ,mohamm$1 at ,mecca4 ,"o hundr$ ye>s lat] ! "n ( ?is ,arab lad1 jo9$ to t ( ! ,almighty1 0 call$ out f t5 ?\s& mosques five times daily1 f ,muscat to ,morocco1 & 8 new religion 0 sweep+ ev]y?+ be=e x 9 ?ree cont95ts40#bd ,9 _m ways ! new religion 0 cong5ial to ,arabia4 8,al?\gh x made a mo/ vigor\s ef=t to conqu] ! _w1 x is1 aft] all1 a religion ( ! des]t1 ( ! t5t1 & ! c>avan1 & is conf9$ to nomad & savage or half-civilis$ nations1 *iefly ,arabs1 ,p]sians1 & ,turks4 ,x nev] made an impression on ,europe except by brute =ce2 x is only encamp$1 n really dome/icat$1 9 ,con/ant9ople1 & :5 x mu/ )draw f ,europe x w leave no trace beh9d40#be ,x gave ! hea!n ,arabs1 9 ex*ange = _! prec>i\s dep5d5ce on incalculable & wayw>d gods1 ! sublime conception ( 8,islam10 ! absolute surr5d] to ! ,"o ,god1 :om x decl>$ to be ,almighty1 ,all-,wise1 & ,all-,m]ciful4 ,= ! re/1 its secret 0 simplicity4 ,x drove /raight = its object1 sacrific+ art1 appetite1 ! purity ( home life1 ! spirituality ( religi\s imag9ation1 & "s ( ! accept$ moralities ( consci5ce4 ,:at 0 left 0 a cre$ & /&>d1 some:at impov]i%$ truly1 b workable & uncompromis+4 ,a ?\s& difficult que/ions 7 avoid$1 & "o ( ^? =ces set 9 play be=e ^: r\gh simplicity f9] & m delicate ?+s are swept away4 ,mohamm$anism meets ! travell] at e turn 9 ,syria4 ,n[ & !n a d]vi% is enc\nt]$--! extreme/ sort ( ,moslem4 ,x w\ld seem difficult to develop a my/ic s*ool )9 ! pale ( s cle>-cut a fai? z ,mohamm$anism2 yet x has be5 done4 ,b ! ,mohamm$an d]vi%es escape f ?is despis$ mat]ial _w by ! vulg> process ( hypnotis+ !mselves by ! repetition ( ! ^w 8,allah0 or 8,hu10 or by :irl+ 9 circles until !y are /upefi$4 ,?is !y call ! ec/atic /ate1 & :5 !y h rea*$ x !y are said to p]=m _m viol5t tricks1 /abb+ _! fle% or eat+ brok5 glass1 )\t appe>+ to feel pa94 ,9 ,syria !y are by no means impressive 9 appe>ance4 ,"h & !re y meet "o1 ) hair crimp$ 9 long ?9 po9t$ wisps1 & /ick+ out 9 a wiry fa%ion f 8 head 9 all directions4 ,! daz$ & r weak look 9 ! eyes is sugge/ive ( a /ray$ revell] r ?an a holy man1 b ! p hold !m 9 great rev]5ce4 ,ano!r occasional freak ( ,mohamm$anism is ! religi\s procession1 :i* is conduct$ on ! pr9ciple ( a rival %[ to ! ,*ri/ian ftes4 ,x />ts on ,good ,friday f ,j]usalem to visit ! tomb ( ,moses--a late fiction1 some:at d>+ 9 its contradiction to ! old belief t ! tomb ( ,moses 0 kn[n to no man4 ,x is amus+ly describ$ by witnesses1 b appe>s to be r a poor affair on ! :ole4 ,^! extravagances ap>t1 "o is nev] out ( sight ( ,mohamm$an religion = an h\r ( travel 9 ,syria4 ,! wor%ip1 l old idolatry1 seems to h claim$ e high hill & e gre5 tree = its own4 ,x has settl$ itself1 9 ! v seat ( old ,judaism1 on ! sacr$ area ( ! temple4 ,almo/ e "o ( ! prom95t hills ( ,pale/9e is cr[n$ ) a little build+1 dom$ & :itewa%$1 op5+ 9 a por* 9 front1 & conta9+ a s+le empty *amb]4 ,?is is ! weli 7i4e4 monum5t1 n necess>ily tomb7 ( a ,mohamm$an sa9t4 ,:at ! t]ms ( canonisation may be1 x is p]haps be/ n to inquire too m9utely4 ,_m ( ^! dep>t$ sa9ts are said to h be5 prophets1 b ! discov]] ( c(fee has 8 monum5t 9 ,mo*a1 to :i* great processions come1 & !re is m ?an "o weli 9 ,pale/9e commemorative ( a dead robb] *ief4 ,n ! less sacr$ are !y to ! ,mohamm$ans4 ,9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! c\ntry we 7 puzzl$ by little piles ( /ones1 ga!r$ & arrang$ 9 consid]able numb]s on ! tops ( long asc5ts or passes1 & be>+ a curi\s resemblance to ! cairns :i* 9 c]ta9 di/ricts ( ! we/ ( ,scotl& m>k ! spots at :i* fun]al processions h halt$ to *ange ! c(f9-be>]s4 ,! explanation ( ^! little piles is v simple4 ,:5 a ,mohamm$an comes to ! hill-top1 & look+ ar\nd him sees a weli %9+ 9 ! di/ance1 he (f]s up a pray]1 & drops a /one !re1 to call ! att5tion ( ! next com]1 t he also may look & pray4 ,v picturesque & qua9t ^! little holy h\ses are2 s]v+1 l ! h]mit's t[] ( old 9 ,we/]n l&s1 = l&m>ks z well z = %r9es--! :ite light-h\ses ( ! inl&4 ,x is n at ! :ite tombs only t ! ,moslem prays4 ,five times a day1 at ! call f ! mosque1 he is summon$ to 8 devotions4 ,(t51 inde$1 x is inconv5i5t to wor%ip at "s ( ^! h\rs1 & x is p]missible to say ! pray] five times 9 succession 9 ! ev5+1 :5 !re is mo/ leisure4 ,sometimes he c>ries ) him 8 ros>y1 to help 8 memory ) ! n9ety-n9e beautiful names ( ,allah1 & 9 railway tra9s or /eam]s weal?y g5tlem5 are to be se5 *]i%+ a /r+ ( amb] beads :i* appe> m l ! prop]ty ( "y girls ?an ( gr[n m54 ,to p]=m 8 devotions ! ,syrian goes to a f\nta91 :5 t is possible1 z x is "p ( ! ritual to wa% ! h&s be=e pray+2 b ! ,arab1 spread+ 8 c>pet 9 ! %ade ( 8 camel1 f> away ^u ! des]t1 :]e no wat] is to be _h b ! preci\s drops 9 8 lea!rn bottle1 is p]mitt$ to wa% 8 h&s & lips ) s& in/ead4 ,t :i* impresses e spectator is ! extraord9>y faculty = ab/raction :i* is manife/$4 ,! ,moslem seems to h at comm& ! p[] ( annihilat+ ! _w ar\nd him1 & ent]+ ! unse54 ,8 eyes are op51 b y may pass )9 a y>d ( !m & !y w n seem to see y4 ,!y are fix$ on ! f> di/ance1 z if1 ov] ! ,s\!rn edge ( ! _w1 ! man saw ! ,holy ,city t[>ds :i* he b[s1 ) its ,kaaba & its black /one4 ,he might be cry/al-gaz+1 or wat*+ ! horizon = a sail at sea4 ,p may be danc+ & s++ by 8 side1 b he does n see !m nor he>4 ,ba?+ once 9 ! wat]s ( ,eli%a's f\nta9 at ,j]i*o we _h a memorable in/ance ( ?is4 ,we f\nd ! pool empty & ! walls und]go+ repair4 ,a lad :o _h *>ge ( ! place 0 p]suad$ 9 ! usual fa%ion to let d[n ! door ( a sluice & s all[ ! pool to fill1 greatly to ! detrim5t ( ! newly mort>$ wall4 ,:5 we _h /ripp$1 ! own] ( ! place appe>$1 & we rose to ! surface f a dive to he> a controv]sy go+ on1 ) viol5t ge/ure & apoplectic fury1 :i* m>ks a high po9t 9 our regi/] ( vitup]ation4 ,! wat] seem$ on ! :ole to be ! safe/ place1 & we kept to x until sudd5ly we p]ceiv$ t a great sil5ce _h fall5 on ! l&scape4 ,look+ anxi\sly to see :at _h happ5$1 we f\nd ! own] on 8 knees1 pray+ by 8 own spr+4 ,we dress$ )\t delay1 & _h to pass 9 front ( him to rea* ! t5ts1 b he nev] seem$ to "k t we _h pass$4 ,! muezz91 or call to pray] f ! m9>et1 is "o ( ! mo/ affect+ ( all ,ea/]n s\nds4 ,m5 are *os5 = ?is (fice ) s+ul>ly mell[ & ri* voices2 !y intone1 ) a v musical little cad5ce 9 a m9or key1 ! fir/ *apt] ( ! ,koran1 & sometimes o!r pray]s4 ,at ! great ,mosque ( ,damascus1 a solit>y recit] calls f ! sl5d] m9>et1 & is answ]$ f ! balcony ( ! broad] "o across ! c\rt by tw5ty voices 9 unison4 ,:ile ! waves ( ri* s\nd float out ov] ! city1 & are caught & fa9tly e*o$ f scores ( o!r m9>ets1 "o rememb]s h[ t voice has roll$ =? already ov] innum]able villages f ,b5gal we/w>ds1 & m5 h paus$ f _! lab\r to pray accord+ to _! lights4 ,islam is usually suppos$ to h be5 ! 8,i%maelite 9 *ur* hi/ory10 ) h& aga9/ e man f ! fir/4 ,really1 :5 x 0 ,arabian1 z x rema9$ = f\r c5turies1 x 0 v tol]ant1 & ! ,*ri/ian pilgrims1 prie/s1 & monks 7 little di/urb$4 ,b 9 #ajhf ! ,seljuk *iefs ( w&]+ ,turki% tribes came into possession1 & ! days ( suspicion & t heavy cruelty :i* is *>act]i/ic ( ! /upid began4 ,!re 7 massacres ( monks on ,c>mel & else:]e !n1 & su* a /ate ( g5]al tyranny & oppression t ! cry rea*$ ! ,we/1 & ! ,crusades began4 ,! ,crusades1 z !y dragg$ _! sl[ l5g? along1 did n t5d to bett] und]/&+s2 & aft] ,salad9's conque/ ( ,j]usalem1 we read t ! walls & pavem5t ( ! ,mosque ( ,om> _h to be purifi$ ) copi\s %[]s ( wat] di/ill$ f ! fragrant roses ( ,damascus4 ,! relations betwe5 ,moslem & ,*ri/ian 9 ! l& to-day are happi]1 & ! int]c\rse ( increas+ trade & travel is break+ d[n old p>titions "h z else:]e4 ,yet little love is lo/ betwe5 ! pr(essors ( ! rival fai?s ev5 n[4 ,dr4 ,&rew ,?omson relates h[1 9 rec5t ye>s1 8x _h be5 obs]v$ t at a p>ticul> p]iod ( ! day ! %ad[ ( ! great ,mosque ( ,om> fell ^u a c]ta9 ,*ri/ian bury+-gr\nd4 ,ev5 ! hon\r ( ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,temple ,,area ,,& ,,! ,,m\nt ,,( ,,olives1 ,,f ,,m\nt ,,zion4 ,! dome on ! "r is t ( ! ,mosque ( ,el ,aksa1 & t on ! left is ! ,mosque ( ,om>4 ,betwe5 ^! domes1 & j bel[ ! pr9cipal gr\p ( cypresses1 is ! 8,wail+ ,place40 ,! hills 9 ! backgr\nd are ! ,m\nt ( ,olives4 bless+ convey$ by s sacr$ a %ad[ 0 grudg$4 ,! public au?orities 9 ,j]usalem 7 /rongly urg$ to h ! ,*ri/ian cemet]y remov$ to "s m di/ant place1 & x requir$ all ! comb9$ influ5ce ( ! ,european consulates to prev5t a sc&al\s ord] to ?is effect f be+ issu$40 ,! ,ordnance ,survey p>ty 0 on sev]al occasions attack$1 & ev5 fir$ ^u4 ,9 fanatical ,moslem cities l ,hebron & ,nablus1 travell]s h to conduct !mselves ) ! utmo/ discretion1 & ev5 !n w probably be /on$ ) m or less effect accord+ to ! c\rage & ! m>ksman%ip ( ! ?r[]4 ,! ,*ri/ians return ! animosity ) a k9d ( impati5t ridicule1 :i* seems to indicate a lack ( ref9$ piety on _! "p4 ,our camp-wait]s 7 ,*ri/ians1 & !y us$ to give u v freely _! op9ions on ! !ological diff]5ces betwe5 !m & ! ,mohamm$ans4 ,!re w\ld be a rev]5t if some:at />tl+ acc\nt ( ! ,holy ,tr9ity1 & !n1 9 scornful contra/3 8,mohamm$ans only ,"o1--& ,mohamm$ all ! re/60 ,! scorn is h>dly to be wond]$ at :5 "o rememb]s ! intellectual level ( ! p[]s t be4 ,?is is =c$ ^u "o's notice by c\ntless tales ( ! cu/om-h\se & c5sor%ip (ficials4 ,a map ( anci5t ,pale/9e 0 object$ to because 8!re 7 no maps 9 ^? days60 ,an eng9e]1 telegraph+ ab\t a pump1 0 arre/$ because ! message read3 8,"o hundr$ revolutions60 ,9 c]ta9 ,bibles ! text 0 eras$1 8,jesus ,*ri/ came into ! _w to save s9n]s02 & x 0 direct$ t ! ^w 8,*ri/ians0 %\ld be sub/itut$1 z !re 7 no s9n]s 9 ! ,turki% empire6 ,aft] a c]ta9 am\nt ( t regime1 "o w\ld no d\bt put new mean+ into ! pray] :i* invokes ,god's m]cy 8^u all ,turks10 z well z on infidels & h]etics6 ,9 spite ( all ?is !re is a good deal ( int]*ange betwe5 ! two fai?s1 or at lea/ ( borr[+ on ! "p ( ,islam f ,*ri/ian tradition4 ,s _m po9ts h ! two 9 common1 t a !ory has be5 broa*$ on :i* ,mohamm$ appe>s only z ! ,judais] 7z x 77 ( lat] days1 :o saw ! difficulty t ,*ri/ians _h 9 work+ ) g5]al pr9ciples1 & set himself to simplify ! situation by r$uc+ ,*ri/ianity to a /]eotyp$ sy/em4 ,c>lyle di/9ctly calls ,islam 8a k9d ( ,*ri/ianity40 ,h[ev] ?is may be1 !re is no "q z to ! imm5se am\nt :i* ,syrian ,mohamm$anism borr[s f ! ,jewi% & ,*ri/ian ,scriptures4 ,c\ntless tombs & o!r monum5ts are d$icat$ to ,jo%ua & o!r ,old ,te/am5t wor?ies4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 may be due to ! fact t _m ,moslem sa9ts h borne ! old names1 & z "t w5t on _! memories came to be confus$ ) ^? ( _! m fam\s namesakes4 ,samson's exploits especially h appeal$ to ! ,mohamm$an imag9ation1 & he appe>s "u ! incognito ( 8,ismn ,aly10 among _m o!r names4 ,/4 ,george is a v popul> sa9t = ,moslem wor%ip4 ,x />tles u /ill m to f9d t 9 ! great fire at ,damascus numb]s ( ,moslems ?rew !mselves into ! flames 9 ! attempt to rescue ! head ( ,john ! ,bapti/2 :ile a copy ( ! ,koran--"o ( ! orig9al f\r copies--:i* lay bel[ ! relic1 0 =gott5 & de/roy$4 ,! mo/ ext5sive & curi\s po9t ( contact betwe5 ! two religions is f\nd 9 ^? mosques :i* 7 =m]ly built z ,*ri/ian *ur*es1 & !n appropriat$ by ! conqu]ors4 ,! ,gr& ,mosque ( ,damascus is a conspicu\s case 9 po9t4 ,x is built on ! site ( a pagan temple1 "p ( ^: ho>y front /ill /&s1 a magnific5t fragm5t ( anci5t heavy masonry & c>v+ n[ br[n & grey ) age4 ,on ! ru9s ( ! temple rose ! ,*ri/ian *ur* ( ,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/1 ^: date is ab\t ! beg9n+ ( ! fif? c5tury4 ,aft] ! ,mohamm$an conque/ ! *ur* became a mosque1 & fabul\s sums 7 sp5t on its decoration4 ,x has twice be5 de/roy$ by fire1 & is n[ be+ re/or$ aft] ! la/ ( ^! de/ructions4#bf ,! re/oration has a v br&-new appe>ance1 yet x is magnific5t ) its weal? ( m>ble & ( o!r co/ly /one4 ,! ,mosque ( ,sam>ia1 conspicu\s f a di/ance by its m9>et is ano!r ,*ri/ian *ur* recon/ruct$ = ,mohamm$an wor%ip4 ,!re 0 a six?-c5tury basilica "h1 b ! pres5t mosque is built out ( ! mat]ial ( ! ,crusad] *ur* :i* replac$ t4 ,! sev]ity & b>5ess ( its /one walls & pill>s are reliev$ only by "o t\* ( col\r--! flags & ! lovely gre5 pill>s ( ! pulpit4 ,! wall at ! pulpit's side has be5 recess$ into a mihrab or ni*e1 :i* po9ts t[>ds ,mecca & s gives ! wor%ipp] 8 be>+s4 ,9 ! crypt1 :]e ! ,crusad]s believ$ !y _h ! tomb ( ,john ! ,bapti/1 l>ge slabs ( poli%$ m>ble atte/ ! =m] weal? ( decoration1 & ^! slabs are ( peculi> int]e/ because ( "o curi\s little fact4 ,x 0 cu/om>y to c>ve on ,*ri/ian build+s ! sign ( ! ,cross--a ,maltese cross1 set )9 a circle4 ,su* a cross may be di/9ctly se5 on "o ( ! /ones close to ! emb$d$ pill> at ! s\? door ( ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re4 ,on ! m>ble slabs ( ! crypt 9 ,sam>ia ^! encircl$ crosses are to be se52 b ! ,mohamm$ans h *ipp$ away ! uprights ( !m1 leav+ only ! mean+less horizontal b> bisect+ ! circle1 & ! obvi\s m>k ( ! *isel 9 _! r\gh workman%ip leaves ! uprights also fa9tly visible4 ,p]haps ! mo/ int]e/+ case ( all is ! ,mosque el ,aksa1 close to ! ,mosque ( ,om>1 )9 ! temple area4 ,?is is t 8f>-(f place ( pray]0 :i* ,mohamm$ c\nt$ among ! mo/ holy %r9es 9 ! _w4 ,f\nd$ by ,ju/9ian z a ,*ri/ian basilica1 x 0 conv]t$ into a mosque by ,om>1 & adorn$ ) unhe>d-( lavi%ness by ,abd el ,melik1 :o ov]laid its doors ) gold & silv] plates4 ,s9ce !n x has pass$ ?r\gh _m adv5tures4 ,wid5$ to efface "s sugge/ion ( cruci=m %ape1 its bread? became unmanageable1 & six r[s ( pill>s support ! ro(4 ,! ro( has fall5 91 & e>?quakes h brok5 ! build+ m ?an once1 s t mo/ ( ! masonry is comp>atively mod]n1 ! great ar*es ( ! /ructure :i* supports ! dome be+ 8an*or$0 by wood5 beams :i* ?r[ horizontal bridges f capital to capital 9 ,arab fa%ion4 ,! gre5-&-gold mosaic ) :i* ! int]ior ( ! dome & ! upp] portion ( ! adjac5t masonry is cov]$1 _c be v old1 ?\gh _! dim & antique beauty is wor?y ( ! old] art4 ,! pulpit1 ri*ly inlaid ) ,aleppo "w ( ivory & "m-(-pe>l1 0 ,salad9's gift sev5 hundr$ ye>s ago4 ,b t :i* mo/ ( all attracts ! eye & fasc9ates ! imag9ation is ! aspect ( ! pill>s1 ^: v>iegat$ col\rs are peculi>ly ri* & h>moni\s4 ,up to a c]ta9 height !y are poli%$ to ! %9+ po9t by ! g>m5ts ( wor%ipp]s rubb+ aga9/ !m z !y pass2 above t !y are smoo?1 unpoli%$ /one4 ,! capitals1 & "s at lea/ ( ! columns1 are v anci5t1 & may h /ood 9 ! orig9al basilica4 ,! ,mosque ( ,om> is n1 /rictly speak+1 a mosque at all4 ,! mosque is ,el ,aksa1 & ! m fam\s build+ is b a glorifi$ pray+-/ation ( ! nature ( a weli 9 its c\rt4 ,x /&s ne> ! c5tre ( a wide op5 space1 practically ! only su* space 9 ,j]usalem1 :i* occupies "o-six? "p ( ! :ole area ( ! city )9 ! walls4 ,! enclosure is p>tly artificial1 support$ on va/ sub/ructures ( vault$ build+ :i* raise ! enclos$ gr\nd to a g5]al level4 ,! mosque is set up on a plat=m t5 feet high] ?an ?is level4 ,its hi/ory has be5 a /range "o4 ,beh9d ! "t ( its erection lies all ! /ory ( ! ,temple1 ^: sacr$ ark ,jewi% tradition affirms to h be5 conceal$ "h by ,j]emiah4 ,b t rock1 ^: r$ outcrop breaks ?r\gh ! floor ( ! mosque1 leads u back to a dimm] pa/1 & to ! /ory ( ,abraham's sacrifice ^u ,moriah1 ^: site ?is is said to be4 ,v>i\s !ories h be5 advocat$ z to ! place :i* ! rock held 9 ! arrangem5ts ( ! ,jewi% temple4 ,! ,jews ( to-day h a leg5d t on x some:]e ! ,unspeakable ,"n is writt51 & !y expla9 ! miracles ( ,jesus by ! supposition t ,he _h succe$$ 9 deciph]+ x4 ,we1 too1 = :om its *ief int]e/ & pa?os lie 9 ! fact t ,*ri/ came hi!r to wor%ip1 & 9 ! ?+s t befell ,him "h1 may accept ! mean+ at lea/ ( t curi\s leg5d4 ,= ,8 own words 7 t ,he _h decl>$ to m5 ! "n ( ,8 ,fa!r1 & t decl>ation has truly reveal$ to mank9d ! hidd5 mean+ ( _! holie/ ?+s4 ,x 0 9 #fhj ,a4,d4 t ! fir/ ,mohamm$an sanctu>y 0 erect$ on ! temple area1 b ! date ( ! pres5t build+ is two hundr$ ye>s lat]4 ,x /ruck u z a curi\s fact a ye> ago 9 ,damascus t ! burnt mosque 0 be+ rebuilt almo/ entirely by ,*ri/ian masons4 ,/ill m surpris+ is x to le>n t ! ,mosque ( ,om> 0 built by ,byzant9e ar*itects & modell$ on ! ,rotunda ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re4 ,two hundr$ ye>s lat] ! ,crusad]s ent]$ ,j]usalem1 &1 accord+ to ! dreadful /ory1 8! c>nage 9 ! ,mosque ( ,om> swept away ! bodies ( ?\s&s 9 a deluge ( human blood40#bg ,mi/ak+ ! ,mosque = ! v]itable ,temple ( ,solomon1 !y f\nd$ !re ! ,society ( ! ,knights ,templ>s1 on ^: armorial be>+s ! dome appe>s4 ,!y conv]t$ ! build+ into 8,templum ,dom9i10 & plant$ a l>ge gild$ cross ^u ! summit ( x4 ,traces ( _! invasion /ill rema9 9 ! cutt+ ( ! rock to suit _! alt>1 & 9 ! great wr\ght-iron enclos+ scre54 ,= almo/ a c5tury ! ,templum ,dom9i rema9$ 9 ,*ri/ian h&s1 until #aahg1 :5 ,salad9 conqu]$ ,j]usalem4 ,8 g5]osity & g5tl5ess contra/$ /rangely ) ! 8loa?some triumph0 ( ! ,crusad]s2 b ! fir/ de/9ation ( ! triumphal m>* 0 ! mosque1 f ^: dome ! ,cross 0 hurl$ to ! gr\nd1 & = two days dragg$ ab\t ! /reets4 ,f t "t ! mosque has be5 "o ( ! mo/ exclusive places 9 ! _w4 ,till rec5t ye>s no ,*ri/ian 0 p]mitt$ to ent] x1 & ,jews avoid x1 le/ !y %\ld unwitt+ly tread ^u ! gr\nd ( ! anci5t ,holy ( ,holies4 ,! fir/ impressions ( ! ,mosque ( ,om> are v pleas+4 ,!re is a b>b>ic spl5d\r 9 its ri* col\r+ & metallic glitt] :5 se5 f a %ort di/ance1 :ile ! m di/ant view ( x is "o ( r>e s(t beauty4 ,its wide c\rts1 too1 give x a fre% & op5-air "* :i* is v refre%+ aft] ! /ifl+ d>k heat & clos5ess ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re4 ,above all x impresses "o ) its gr& simplicity4 ,! %>p-edge angles ( ! octagon are tak5 9 at a glance2 ! rock )9 is b>e rock1 & inf9itely m impressive ?an ! silk & m>ble 9 :i* rock masqu]ades at ,be?lehem4 ,! great numb] ( its pill>s1 scre5s1 read+-/&s1 & o!r furniture1 leaves little op5 room1 & x feels r a cr[d$ ?an a spaci\s place = wor%ip4 ,yet1 on ! o!r h&1 y are n we>i$ ) ! complex symbolism ( _m ( ! anci5t *ur*es4 ,! mean+ ( ?is may be poor]1 b at lea/ x is pla94 ,?is means j a p]fectly %apely & highly col\r$ octagon1 :]e m5 h wor%ipp$ ,god = a ?\s& ye>s 9 ! lea/ complicat$ way 9 :i* wor%ip has be5 done4 ,?us ! mosque is typical ( ! fai? & ! policy t creat$ x4 8,i d n believe10 says ,disraeli's ,tancr$1 8t any?+ great is ev] effect$ by managem5t4444 ,y require some?+ m vigor\s & m simple4444 ,y mu/ act l ,moses & ,mohamm$40 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! en?usiasm = ,mohamm$an simplicity is sorely tri$ :5 ! fir/ mom5t ( almo/ awe/ruck feel+ ends ) ! advance ( ! guide4 ,he is to %ew y ! wond]s ( ! mosque1 & ! torr5t ( m+l$ absurdity & sup]/ition by :i* y f9d y\rself swept on is v try+ to ! w\ld-be admir] ( ! fai? & its monum5t4 ,fir/ ( all1 !re are ! relics--! footpr9t ( ,mohamm$1 & ! hairs ( 8 be>d2 ! pray+-places ( ,abraham & ,elijah & o!r 8v f9e1 high-class p10 z our dragoman describ$ ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,we/ ,,side ,,( ,,! ,,temple ,,area4 ,f ! b>racks ne> ! site ( ! ,t[] ( ,antonia4 ,above ! dom$ build+ 9 ! "r =egr\nd rises ,m\nt ,zion4 ,! rosy hills to ! left are ! m\nta9s ( ,judea4 !m to u2 ! r\nd hole :]e ! rock let ,mohamm$ ?r\gh :5 he asc5d$ to heav51 ! holl[ place 9 ! ro( ( ! cav]n :]e x rose to let him /& erect to pray1 ! tongue ) :i* x spoke1 & ! m>k ( ! angel ,gabriel's f+] :5 x _h to be held d[n f foll[+ him 9 8 asc5sion4 ,/ill m dis5*ant+ is ! knot ( und]gr\nd sup]/itions t desecrate ! holy place1 & rob x ( its fre%ness & heal?y simplicity1 l snakes 9 ! g>d54 ,! wild imag9ation ( ! ,ea/ has pictur$ to itself ! regions :i* lie und]nea? ?is sanctu>y 9 its own grim way4 ,9 spite ( a v obvi\s pill>1 & a bit ( :ite-wa%$ wall to be se5 9 ! cav]n1 ! rock is suppos$ to hov] unsupport$ ov] ! abyss4 ,b5ea? is 8! well ( s\ls10 :]e ! dead assemble twice weekly to pray4 ,"s ?9k ( ^! dep>t$ ones z ^? :o wait = ! ,resurrection1 b a d>k] fancy holds t ! gates ( hell are "h4 ,! wor%ipp] feels ! s\ls ( ! dead flitt+ ab\t him1 & prays ) ! cries ( ! lo/ 9 8 e>s4 ,ev5 ! op5 spaces ( ! c\rt are haunt$ by unclean leg5ds1 & seem to be heavy ) ! od\r ( gravey>d m\ld4 ,"h1 at ,/4 ,george's dome1 ) ! two r$ granite pill>s 9 front ( x1 is ! place :]e ,solomon torm5t$ ! demons2 !re1 by ! ea/]n wall1 is ! ?rone :]eon he sat :5 dead1 ! corpse lean+ on 8 /aff to *eat !m1 until worms gnaw$ ! /aff ?r\gh1 ! body fell =w>d1 & ! demons f\nd out ! trick4 ,9 common dec5cy1 any place t lays claim to sacr$ness mu/ h some?+ to say to wor%ipp]s reg>d+ conduct2 b ! e?ics ( ! ,mosque ( ,om> are a mat* = its impo/ures1 alike 9 gruesom5ess & 9 impud5ce4 ,!y are all ( ! nature ( magic te/s1 by :i* s\ls are to be tri$ = _! et]nal fate4 ,! little arcades at ! top ( ! /eps ( ! plat=m are call$ 8,balances0 because ! scales ( judgm5t are to be susp5d$ !re on ! ,great ,day4 ,! ,dome ( ! ,*a9 owes its "n to ! circum/ance t !re a gold5 *a9 hung at ,david's place ( judgm5t1 :i* _h to be grasp$ by witnesses & dropp$ a l9k :5 a lie 0 told4 ,a place 9 ! out] wall is %[n f :i* a wire w be susp5d$ on ! ,day ( ,judgm5t1 ^: o!r end w be made fa/ on ! ,m\nt ( ,olives4 ,*ri/ w sit on ! wall & ,mohamm$ on ! m\nt4 ,ov] ?is wire mu/ all m5 f9d _! way1 b only ! good w cross1 ! wick$ fall+ into ! valley b5ea?4 ,9 ! ,el ,aksa ,mosque a c\ple ( pill>s /& v ne> ea* o!r1 s worn t !y are p]ceptibly ?9n$4 ,! space betwe5 !m bulges1 9 :i* a piece ( spik$ iron-"w is n[ ins]t$4 ,^! 7 ano!r te/ = ! f9al aw>d--he :o c\ld squeeze himself ?r\gh ! ap]ture1 & he alone1 _h f\nd ! true 8n>r[ way0 to heav54 ,frauds su* z ^! =ce ^u e visitor ! "q h[ f> ! ,mohamm$ans !mselves believe !m4 ,! utt] want ( e>ne/ness1 or any?+ t to a ,we/]n m9d be>s ! resemblance ( reality1 is pa9fully evid5t 9 ! att5dants :o guide y ?r\gh ! mosque4 ,y are =c$ to respect its sacr$ness by pur*as+ ! loan ( slipp]s to cov] y\r boots1 & y feel r l "o ent]+ a circus ?an a place ( wor%ip1 :5 y h be5 trans=m$ into an illum9at$ c>icature by means ( "o yell[ & ano!r r$ slipp]4 ,y\r guide1 :o we>s ! appe>ance ( a convict 9 cl]icals1 greatly enjoys y\r picturesqu5ess1 & makes ha/e to conduct y to a c]ta9 jasp] slab into :i* ,mohamm$ drove n9ete5 nails ( gold 7:i* look1 h[ev]1 indi/+ui%able f iron74 ,a nail comes out at ! end ( e epo*1 & :5 all are gone ! end ( ! _w w come4 ,"o day ! devil de/roy$ all b ?ree & a half ( !m1 :5 ! ,angel ,gabriel1 caught napp+ = once1 /opp$ ! mis*ief j 9 "t4 ,"h y are invit$ to lay any co9s y may *ance to h ab\t y1 & assur$ t if ! co9 be silv] y w save y\r s\l by giv+ x4 ,z ! co9s are tabl$1 ! :ole body ( assi/ant cl]gy assembles to c\nt ! collection4 ,all ?is1 & mu* else1 is b ! inevitable outcome ( a wor%ip t ga!rs r\nd a /one4 ,x is a petrifi$ wor%ip1 h>d & dead z its sacr$ rock4 ,no?+ c\ld be m pa!tic ?an a w9d[ 9 ,el ,aksa almo/ d>k5$ ) little rags ( clo?+ hung !re by poor folk :o come to pray = _! sick fri5ds4 ,if ,syrian ,*ri/ianity is corrupt1 x is at lea/ n s pitiless z ,syrian ,mohamm$anism4 ,! v aspect & situation ( ! rival %r9es is symbolic4 ,! mosque does n really love m51 :e!r x really believes 9 ,god or n4 ,x sits ap>t 9 its wide enclosure1 :ile ! ,*ur* ( ! ,sepul*re is huddl$ indi/+ui%ably into ! ?icke/ pressure ( ! life ( m5 & wom5 9 ! city4 ,! *ur* seems1 by its rugg$ & brok5 outl9e1 to sympa?ise ) ! %att]$ =tunes ( ! life ar\nd x2 x is grey & ru9\s-look+1 z if x _h borne man's sorr[s & c>ri$ !m4 ,! mosque1 ) all its beauty1 seems to sit !re l "s great sleek sph9x1 wat*+ ev]y?+1 b %>+ little & lov+ none ( ! mis]y ar\nd x4 ,9 ?is city ( ru9s !re is some?+ repell5t ab\t its smoo? & self-complac5t f9i%4 ,no1 ! mosque does n really love m52 :e!r x really believes 9 itself & its miracles or n is ano!r ( ! _m ,mohamm$an ?+s :i* ,god only kn[s4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,crusad] ,to tell ev5 9 b>e/ outl9e ! long /ory ( ! ,crusades w\ld be a task z impossible z x w\ld be ?ankless4 ,! magic ( ,sir ,walt] ,scott's ,talisman is happily n yet dead1 & 9 "s degree ! ,crusad] /ill lives z an actual & human figure 9 our imag9ation4 ,_m ,*ri/ians :o _h come z pilgrims _h settl$ 9 ! l& z its inhabitants1 & = f\r c5turies aft] ! ,arabian conque/ ^! cont9u$ bo? _! trade & _! wor%ip "u ! tol]ably mild ,mohamm$an rule4 ,9 ! elev5? c5tury all 0 *ang$ by ! ,s>ac5 invasion4 ,pilgrims 7 extortionately tax$ at ! gates ( ,j]usalem2 _! lives 7 imp]ill$1 _! p]sons & _! devotions insult$4 ,! old comm]ce1 :i* _h gr[n to consid]able proportions1 0 ru9$1 & pilgrimage1 f be+ a lucrative & pleasant s]vice1 became an almo/ c]ta9 m>tyrdom4 ,x 0 ?is /ate ( affairs :i* s5t ,pet] ! ,h]mit ?r\gh ,europe on 8 great campaign 9 #ajic1 & ^? extraord9>y w>s t rag$ 9 ,syria ?r\gh two c5turies bore ! complex "* ( ! motives :i* _h prompt$ !m4 ,f ! dep>ture ( t motley rabble :i* foll[$ ! ,h]mit to ! ,ea/ 9 ! fir/ ,crusade1 d[n to ! pitiful exp$ition ( ,fr5* *ildr5 :o />t$ #cj1jjj /rong f ,v5dme 9 #abab1 !re /ret*es p]haps ! mo/ picturesque p]iod 9 all hi/ory4#bh ,! mass ( p>adox & contradiction :i* t p]iod pres5ts is no less /rik+4 ,x 0 an invasion by ! ,we/1 ^: purpose 0 to rehabilitate an ,ea/]n fai?4 ,x 0 a religi\s w> c>ri$ on by ! jeal\sies & ambitions ( rival nations4 ,x 0 ! occasion ( "s ( ! mo/ /atesmanlike gov]nm5t t ! _w has se51 & x 0 accompani$ f fir/ to la/ by frequ5t outbur/s ( trea*]y1 massacre1 & lu/4 ,x 0 ! mo/ airy dream & at ! same "t ! mo/ effective practical =ce ( its "t4 ,x 0 ! expression ( ! mo/ ascetic sev]ity & ! mo/ reckless luxury4 ,utt]ly futile1 comm]cially & socially disa/r\s1 (t5 :olly irreligi\s1 x 0 yet ev]y:]e a massive & purposeful conception1 9 :i* ! det]m9ation & =cefulness ( ! ,we/ ?ru/ _! iron w$ge clean to ! c5tre ( ?is sleepy l&4 ,its high idealism1 curi\sly alloy$ ) gross] elem5ts bo? s5sual & brutal1 0 yet able to pres]ve ?r\gh all ! g5u9e spiritual fire ( *ivalry & ( fai?4 ,our task is simply to asc]ta9 :at all ?is /&s = 9 ! hi/ory ( ,pale/9e1 & :at x has left beh9d x !re z its memorial4 ,9 two words1 x /&s = ! contact ( ! ,ea/ & ,we/1 & = _! sep>at5ess4 ,into ,europe ! ,crusades br\ght mu* f ! ,ea/4 ,x 0 due to !m m ?an to all o!r causes t !re 0 s imm5se an increase ( ,ea/]n m]*&ise 9 ,we/]n m>kets--n ( ,j]usalem relics only1 b ( ,damascus w>e & ( ,p]sian & ev5 ,indian produce f beyond ! great riv]s4 ,_! influ5ce on ar*itecture1 too1 is a well-kn[n fact ( ,we/]n hi/ory4 ,! ,mosque ( ,om> rose on at lea/ ?ree ,european sites1 & ! plan ( _m ano!r piece ( ,byzant9e build+ & ,arabesque decoration 0 br\ght home by ! ,crusad]s f ! w>s4 ,into ! ,ea/1 aga91 ! ,crusades br\ght mu* f ! ,we/4 ,f nor? to s\? ( ,pale/9e "o meets ) ! rema9s & memorials ( t invasion4 ,!irs are ! footpr9ts mo/ visible ?r\gh\t ! l&4 ,ev]y?+ 9 ,syria has felt ! t\* ( !m & reta9$ its m>k4 ,at e turn "o f9ds some?+ recognisable & homely to ,we/]n e>s & eyes--! "n ( a ca/le1 ! *isell+ ( a /one1 ! m\ld+ ( metal--!y are /rangely famili> z !y are met s f> away f home4 ,yet !y survive z wreckage1 & z wreckage only4 ,he :o hopes to we/]nise ! ,ea/ is attempt+ a task 9 :i* all mu/ fail1 :e!r !y be soldi]s or prie/s1 mission>ies or /atesm54 ,! anci5t ,ea/]n life has long ago fl[$ back ov] ! relics ( ! ,we/]n occupation ( ,syria4 ,! surviv+ traces are ( _m k9ds4 ,!re are ! desc5dants ( ,crusad]s1 sprung ( int]m>riages ) ,ea/]n wom51 & /ill pres]v+ a di/9ctively ,european type 9 little sugge/ive details ( feature or ( hair4 ,names su* z ,bel=t1 ,belvoir1 ,mirabel1 ,blan*eg>de1 or ,s9jil 7,/4 ,giles71 com+ )\t apology next to ! ,hebrew & ,arabic names ( villages 9 ,pale/9e1 /rike "o ) v mu* ! same %ock z old ,scotti% place-names d1 alt]nat+ ) incorporat$ aborig9al ones1 on ! railway /ations ( ! ,au/ralian bu%4 ,relics l ! sword & spurs ( ,godfrey de ,b\illon may1 l mo/ o!r relics1 be disc\nt$1 b n s ! wond]ful masonry ( ca/les & ( *ur*es :i* ev]y:]e ov]awes ! man accu/om$ to mod]n walls4 ,w9d+ our way ) tight re9 along ! n>r[ & crook$ /reets ( ,tyre1 we sudd5ly plung$ into ! d>kness & f\l air ( ! ,baza>4 ,at ! o!r end ( x1 em]g+ "u a ,go?ic ar*way1 we f\nd ourselves 9 ! c\rty>d ( a khan1 a v dirty & unpleasant place4 ,see+ no?+ b unclean /ables1 we imag9$ t our horses 7 to be put up "h & p]haps f$1 & we piti$ !m4 ,!n1 to our a/oni%m5t1 we discov]$ t ?is 0 ! old ,crusad] ,*ur*1 :]e ^! brok5 & discol\r$ ar*es _h once e*o$ ! hymns & pray]s ( ,european *ivalry2 & t some:]e among !m lay ! bones ( ! great emp]or s fam\s 9 ,illu/ration3 ,,entrance ,,to ,,! ,,*ur* ,,( ,,! ,,holy ,,sepul*re4 hi/ory & leg5d--8,d] alte ,b>b>ossa1 d] ,kais] ,fri$]i*40 ,n less affect+ 9 its way 0 ! discov]y ( a little pat* ( snapdragon fl[]s on ! ru9$ walls ( ,bel=t ,ca/le4 ,we 7 in=m$ t ! plant is n else:]e f\nd 9 ,syria1 & ! likelihood is t "s ,crusad]'s lady br\ght x f ! g>d5 ( a f>-(f ,fr5* or ,engli% home4 ,! ,crusad] 0 at once ! dream]1 ! wor%ipp]1 & ! fight] ( ! ,middle ,age4 ,! knight 0 n inde$ ! sort ( man :om at fir/ sight we w\ld suspect ( dream+4 ,c\ld we see him rid+ d[n ! /reet to-day1 we %\ld probably be rem9d$ ( "s village blacksmi? on a ,clydesdale horse4 ,yet he _h be5 dream+ dreams & see+ visions4 ,he 0 a g5tleman & a man ( feel+1 ?\gh he _h 8 own r\gh ways ( %ew+ x4 ,"p ( :at _h set him dream+ 0 ! in/9ct ( travel & ! lit]ature ( travel :i* 9 ^? days 0 s qua9t & picturesque4 ,no d\bt ?is travel lit]ature 0 l>gely due to pilgrims1 b !re 7 o!rs !n :o c\ld play no tune b 8,ov] ! hills & f> away40 ,travell]s' half-rememb]$ & exagg]at$ adv5tures conspir$ ) ! fanta/ic imag9+s ( ! untravell$ ru/ic to create t magic l& beyond ! horizon :]e giants1 mon/]s1 & devils _h _! home4 ,all ! wi/fulness1 ! dream1 & ! desire ( ! anci5t days are !re4 ,! *ronicl]s ( ! "t be=e ! ,norman ,conque/ are ! mo/ fasc9at+ ( geograph]s1 & ! s+]s ( ,ar?urian romance 9 ! lat] days ( ! ,crusades arriv$ at a geography :i* 0 an utt] bewild]m5t1 ! result ( ages ( vague travel & rum\rs f ! ,syrian seat ( w>4 ,babylon & ,wales & places ) names :olly unpron\nceable are 9 sublime confusion1 & ! geography 9 g5]al is t ( ,?ack]ay's ,little ,billee1 :o saw f 8 ma/-head 8,j]usalem & ,madagasc> & ,s\? ,am]ikee40 ,j]usalem always came fir/4 8,! ,crusades10 z ,sidonia says 9 ,tancr$1 8r5ovat$ ! spiritual hold :i* ,asia has always _h ^u ! ,nor?40 ,! spell ( ! ,ea/ _h come ^u ! ,we/1 & 9 t !re lay a reason = ! ,crusades deep] ?an any comm]cial or ev5 milit>y attraction4 ,! ,we/ 0 wait+ = x4 ,beh9d ! ,briti% m5 ( ! twelf? c5tury lay a h]$ity ( patriotic leg5d connect$ l>gely ) ! battle ( ,*ri/ianity aga9/ ,paganism "u ,ar?ur4 ,!re lay ! f\ndation ( mu* t 0 be/ 9 ! crusad+ en?usiasm4 ,on _! own soil !y _h foll[$ ! ,k+ & f\ght "u him = ,*ri/4 ,b to satisfy ! he>ts ( ^! r\gh m5 x ne$$ m ?an all su* practical life c\ld yield !m1 ev5 :5 t life 0 s excit+ z x 0 !n4 ,!re is an inf9ite pa?os 9 ! dream t 0 com+ to cle>ness ?r\gh ^? ye>s4 ,discont5t$ ) ! glories ev5 ( ,ar?ur's c\rt1 long+ = a spiritual some?+ :i* might give to *ivalry its f9e/ mean+1 !y s\ght ! ,holy ,grail4 ,until1 well on 9 ! twelf? c5tury1 ! %ad[y figures ( ,walt] ,map & ,rob]t de ,borron =mulate ! romance1#bi we see x gr[+ out ( old pagan leg5ds baptiz$ by ,*ri/ian mission>ies & bl5d$ ) ,bible /ories4 ,x em]ges at la/ 9 ! romances ( ! ,fr5* ,tr\vres1 ! summit & fl[] ( all pa/ idealisms1 ! spiritual secret & gi/ ( life1 & ! *ief end ( noble m54 ,?is is all well kn[n to ^? :o int]e/ !mselves 9 t spiritual se>* :i* is ! ma9 bus9ess ( *oice s\ls 9 all ages1 & :i* 9 t age took lit]>y =m 9 ! ,grail ,que/4 ,b to u x is specially int]e/+ to note t ! c5tury ^: lat] ye>s receiv$ ! ,tr\vre leg5d f ,*rti5 de ,troyes began ) an ev5t b = :i* t leg5d w\ld nev] h assum$ ! =m 9 :i* x appe>$4 ,9 #aaja ,css>ea 0 besieg$ & tak5 by ,baldw9 ,i4 8,x yield$ a ri* booty4 ,among o!r prizes 0 f\nd a hexagonal vase ( gre5 cry/al1 suppos$ to h be5 us$ at ! adm9i/ration ( ! sacram5t1 & n[ pres]v$ 9 ,p>is4 ,?is vase plays an important "p 9 m$ival poetry z ! ,holy ,grail40 ,! vision>y aspect ( ! ,crusades is t :i* cont9ually obtrudes itself z "o reads _! hi/ory4 ,tasso's ,g]usalemme ,lib]ata is full ( x4 ,ev5 s r\gh & boi/]\s a h]o z ,ri*>d is obvi\sly a dream] also4 ,no?+ 9 all ?is hi/ory is m /rik+ ?an t fateful day :51 aft] m>*+ to )9 sev5 leagues ( ,j]usalem1 ,ri*>d comm&$ 8 army to halt1 & c\rt$ _! murmurs dur+ a mon?'s unacc\ntable inaction4 ,p]=m+ unhe>d-( feats ( val\r 9 m9or sallies1 he c\ld only weep :5 he beheld ! t[]s ( ! ,holy ,city1 & aft] r\t+ ,salad9's army 9 a great battle at ,joppa1 negotiat$ a truce & w&]$ (f to %ipwreck & imprisonm5t1 comm5d+ ! ,holy ,l& to ,god1 & pray+ t x might be grant$ him to return aga9 & recov] x4#cj ,z wor%ipp]s1 ! ,crusad]s are fam\s figures 9 ! ,holy ,l&4 ,x is h>d to reconcile ! tales ( wild debau*]y :i* foll[$ almo/ all _! victories1 ) ! obvi\sly g5u9e religi\s en?usiasm t swept ! ho/s d[n weep+ on _! knees :5 !y caught fir/ sight ( ,j]usalem4 ,yet ! wor%ip 0 s9c]e1 & !re 7 pure & g5tle spirits among !m :om victory did n demoralise4 ,!y are always1 inde$1 arm$ wor%ipp]s--at fir/ a religi\s soldi]y1 aft]w>ds a milit>y prie/hood1 z ,/ebb+ puts x4 ,?is composite "* is well br\ght out 9 ! two ord]s ( knights1 ! ,hospitall]s & ! ,templ>s4 ,! =m]1 work+ = ! sick 9 ! ,holy ,city1 wore a black robe ) a :ite cross ^u ! brea/ ( x1 b :5 !re 0 fight+ to be done !y cov]$ ?is ) a surcoat ( sc>let on :i* a silv] cross 0 embroid]$4 ,!y liv$ simply1 cont5t+ !mselves ) su* lodg+ & f>e z 7 (f]$ !m1 & !y 7 b\nd to keep !mselves provid$ ) a light :i* mu/ always be kept burn+ :ile !y slept4 ,! ,templ>s pl$g$ !mselves 9 ev5 /rict] v[s1 & 7 w>rior-prie/s 9 ! mo/ lit]al s5se ( ! t]m4 ,on ! summit ( ,m\nt ,tabor !re is ! ru9 ( a ,crusad] *ur*1 ^: brok5 walls /ill enclose ! sacr$ space :]e once m5 wor%ipp$4 ,spaci\s & /rongly built1 ! ru9 has a sev]e gr&eur ( its own4 ,9 ! *ancel an alt> has be5 rebuilt1 & an upturn$ ,cor9?ian capital set ^u x1 9 ! c5tre ( :i* is fix$ a heavy iron cross4 ,t iron cross seems to sum up 9 its grave symbolism ! v _s ( ! ,crusades4 ,_m ( _! *ur*es 7 recon/ructions ( old] ,*ri/ian edifices1 & mo/ ( !m h be5 transmut$ into mosques1 s t _! ecclesia/ical ar*itecture /ill rema9+ is z composite z _! "* & _! ent]prise4 ,yet en\gh rema9s ( :at is di/9ctively _! own to %[ at once ! massive /r5g? & ! decorative beauty ( _! build+s4 ,its /r5g? is t ( m5 :o 7 accu/om$ to build =tresses2 ! buttress$ walls are ( imm5se ?ickness1 & ! mort> is sometimes h>d] ?an ! /one4 ,its beauty has be5 defac$ by ! mutilation ( mu* f9e "w1 b f :at is left we "k h[ well !y c>v$2 & !re is a c]ta9 high solemnity ab\t _! ar*es & columns :i* tells ( m5 ^: m9ds 7 l>ge1 /rong1 & real4 ,"o curi\s fact1 to :i* ,cond] (t5 directs att5tion1 is con/antly p]plex+ ! travell]4 ,_! id5tifications ( sacr$ sites are ^? ( m5 ^: en?usiasm f> exce$$ _! k4 ,_h !y tak5 "t to consult ! ,scriptures1 or to read !m ) any ?\ghtfulness1 c\ntless errors w\ld h be5 avoid$4 ,b ! soldi] in/9ct is v f> f ! critical1 & !y 7 impati5t to f9d ! sites !y wi%$ to see4 ,any?+ 0 suffici5t = a clue4 ,! "n ,jibr9 sugge/$ 8,gabriel10 & a great *ur* arose 9 hon\r ( ! ,ar*angel4 ,a?lit 0 ne> ! sea-%ore1 & ! ,crusad]s :o liv$ !re f\nd ,tyre & ,cap]naum 9 its imm$iate neighb\rhood4 ,= reasons equally cog5t1 ,%iloh 0 br\ght )9 a mile or two ( ,j]usalem1 ,%e*em became ,sy*>1 & ! heights ( ,ebal & ,g]izim 7 recognis$ z ! ,dan & ,be!l ( ,j]oboam's calves4 ,mo/ curi\s ( all1 ! little hill ( ,jebel ,duhy1 on ^: summit y look d[n across ! valley f ! top ( ,tabor1 0 nam$ ,h]mon1 = no o!r reason ?an t a psalm places ! two toge!r 9 its promise t 8,tabor & ,h]mon %all rejoice 9 ,?y "n40 ,altoge!r1 ^! wor%ipp]s 7 9 too great ha/e4 8,crusad+ topography is m rem>kable ?an reliable40 ,great z ! ,crusad]s 7 9 dream & 9 wor%ip1 x is _! fight+ t rema9s = ev] mo/ impressive & mo/ *>act]i/ic4 ,( no m5 9 hi/ory is ! v]se tru]1 9 spite ( all _! extravagances-- ,"k t ! m5 ( great r5[n ,7 m5 ( simple ne$s3 ,b>e to ! ,"l !y laid !m d[n ,& slept on mighty de$s4 ,look$ at f a di/ance1 ! ,crusades v g5]ally we> ! aspect ( a /ream ( vivid col\r--a spectacul> progress ( ,europe ?r\gh a corn] ( ,asia1 ^: ma9 feature is its brilliant picturesqu5ess4 ,on ! spot ! quality 9 !m :i* is by f> ! mo/ impressive is _! /]n reality & fight+ weight4 ,! ,crusad] 0 d\btless "o :o 9 8 "t play$ _m p>ts1 b :atev] else he 01 no "o :o has se5 ! rema9s ( 8 "w w "q t he 0 at lea/ 8a fir/-class fight+ man40 ,! figure ( ,ri*>d1 z x is pres]v$ = u 9 ! records ( ! old] hi/orians1 may be m or less apocryphal1 b x is at lea/ true en\gh to crusad+ ideals1 :i* mu/ h f\nd _m an actual realisation 9 ^! /rong & fe>less soldi]s ( ! ,cross4 ,we read ( amaz+ captures ( booty2 ( s+le combats 9 :i* 8! ,k+ at "o bl[ sev]s ! head1 "r %\ld] & arm ( 8 oppon5t f ! re/ ( 8 body02 ( a conflict 9 :i* only "o ,*ri/ian p]i%$1 :ile 8! ,turks lo/ sev5 hundr$ m5 & above fifte5 hundr$ horses40 ,at ,joppa ! k+ leaps out ( 8 %ip be=e x c rea* l&1 & ru%es on ! enemy4 ,?ree days lat] he & 8 knights are surpris$ & h to fight half-nak$1 "s 9 _! %irts & "s ev5 b>efoot2 yet !y w94 ,at ano!r "t we see ,ri*>d plung+ alone into ! mid/ ( ! ho/ile army1 & fight+ until ,salad9's bro!r s5ds him a gift ( two ,arab w>-horses to enable him to fight x out4 ,altoge!r su* a h]o 0 he1 t ! ,moslems ass]t$ 8t ev5 ! horses bri/l$ _! manes at ! "n ( ,ri*>d40 ,no wond] if 9 ! popul> imag9ation he became = ,engl& h>dly di/+ui%able f t ,/4 ,george :o _h already be5 id5tifi$ ) ,p]seus1 :o on ^! same s&s _h f\ght ! dragon = ,&rom$a4 ,! gr&eur ( crusad+ w>f>e l+]s 9 ! mighty ru9s ( _! ca/les4 ,no?+ c\ld surpass ! impressiv5ess ( ^! ca/les1 se5 on hill-tops f bel[1 comb+ ! sky ) ! %>p brok5 tee? ( _! ru9$ t[]s1 or re>+ a black 8mail$ head ( m5ace0 aga9/ ! />s4 ,_m ( !m are on ! sites ( old] =tresses1 & actually /& on ,jewi% or ,roman f\ndations4 ,by f> ! mo/ impos+ ( su* ca/les is t ( ,banias1 :i* cr[ns t spur ( ,h]mon at :i* 8,dan leap$ f ,ba%an0 long ago4 ,x mu/ h be5 capable ( qu>t]+ a small army1 & ! quantity ( brok5 vessels confirms ! impression4 ,ci/]ns1 vault$ & gro9$ ar*ways1 mosaic floors1 dungeons1 & e o!r luxury ( _! ,european homes _h be5 import$ hi!r4 ,! ,crusad]s ran a l9e ( =tresses along t we/]n edge ( ! ,jordan valley :]e ,israel1 z we saw1 fail$ to protect ! m\?s ( h] gorges4 ,belvoir1 8! ,/> ( ! ,w9d10 gu>ds f its l(ty promontory ! passes imm$iately s\? ( ! ,sea ( ,galilee4 ,be?%an itself1 :]e ! ,canaanites l+]$ to ! /&+ %ame ( ,israel1 %[s ! well-pres]v$ rema9s ( a crusad] bridge & =tress4 ,n less /rik+ is ! sea-bo>d l9e ( ca/les4 ,n only 9 su* old localities z ,tyre & ,sidon1 ,cs>ea & ,joppa1 did =tresses arise1 b on at lea/ two q new sites--^? ( ,a?lit & ,acre4 ,illu/ration3 ,,int]ior ,,( ,,! ,,dome ,,( ,,! ,,*a91 ,,look+ ,,nor?4 ,a?lit is unm5tion$ 9 ,scripture1 & only ! eye ( seaf>+ soldi]s c\ld h discov]$ h[ its little crease 9 ! long /raight l9e ( coa/ might be utilis$ = def5ce4 ,acre is 8! ,key to ,syria02 b x 0 left = ! ,crusad]s to discov] t fact4 ,yet ) all ?is might & purpose & /rategic in/9ct manife/ 9 e mile ( ,syria1 failure is writt5 broad across ! l& 9 ^! ru9s4 ,at two po9ts ! s5se ( x becomes especially acute4 ,"o is ! battlefield bel[ ! v m\nta9 :i* tradition has assign$ to ! prea*+ ( ! ,s]mon on ! ,m\nt4 ,! horrors ( t field 7 su* t ev5 yet x is impossible to look )\t %udd]+ ^u ! flatt5$ top ( ,hatt91 :]e ! black basalt /&s out f ! gre5 slopes bel[4 ,! ,crusad]s 7 ru%$ into ! op5 pla91 ne> :i* ,salad9's cavalry 7 wait+ = !m1 & !y met 8 assault unf$1 unre/$1 & )\t ev5 wat] to qu5* _! ?ir/4 ,?r\gh\t a long hot day !y p]i%$ r\nd ! bann] ( ! ,cross1 a f9al elem5t ( horror be+ add$ :5 ! ,s>ac5s set fire to ! scrub1 & unhors$ knights 7 roa/$ alive 9 _! arm\r4 ,t 0 ! decisive battle ( ! ,crusades1 & ,salad9 m>*$ aft] x /raight ^u ,j]usalem4 ,! o!r po9t at :i* ! failure ( ! ,crusades has set up its monum5t is at _! own ,a?lit4 ,! creation ( _! g5ius1 & = solidity & massive /r5g? p]haps ! mo/ *>act]i/ic ru9 9 ,syria1 x is also ! sadde/ ?+ ( all !y h left = a memorial4 ,ne> its rocks ,k+ ,l\is ,,ix4 ( ,france--mo/ un=tunate & yet mo/ sa9tly ( all crusad+ k+s--0 %ipwreck$4 ,"h1 too1 at ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ! ,knights ,templ>s made _! la/ retreat aft] ! fall ( ,acre1 & x 0 f its ca/le t !y dep>t$--! la/ to ab&on ! la/ ,crusade4 ,se5 f ! sea1 ! compact & r\nd$ promontory ( ,a?lit pres5ts ! appe>ance ( a cl5*$ fi/ m5ac+ & defiant4 ,its hi/ory grimly corroborates ! imag9ation t "h ?r\gh c5turies ( decay ! l& z x 7 ga!rs itself toge!r1 & ?ru/s out ?is grim headl& 9 p]petual defiance ( ! ,we/]n _w4 ,! ,crusades /& = m 9 ,pale/9e ?an x is easy to realise4 ,! compreh5siv5ess ( _! hi/orical significance is by no means exhau/$ :5 we h /at$ x 9 su* p>adoxes z ^? ) :i* our *apt] began4 ,!y 7 inde$ ! greate/ %am & at ! same "t ! greate/ reality ( ,syrian hi/ory1 b !y 7 f> m ?an t4 ,!y 7 heirs to all ! pa/ ( ! c\ntry1 & !y did mu* to p]petuate t pa/ & to c>ry x on into ! "t to come4 ,ev5 f ! ,moslem life !y wre/l$ )1 !y borr[$ some?+4 ,!y1 & ! *ivalry :i* !y fo/]$1 are ! mo/ spectacul> "p ( ,we/]n hi/ory1 & give a da% ( brilliant col\r to ! grey life ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,t brilliance is 9 "p ! spl5d\r ( ! ,ea/4 ,! ,crusad] has borr[$ f ! ,s>ac5 at lea/ a sc>f = 8 sword4 ,x is *iefly z build]s t ! ,crusad]s rema9 9 ,syria expos$ to mod]n eyes1 & 9 _! build+ !y h p]petuat$ & utilis$ ! o!r ?ree invasions4 ,f ! fir/ ,*ri/ians !y took ov] _! *ur*es & rebuilt !m1 reta9+ some?+ & add+ m4 ,f ! old] ,jewi% ar*itects !y _h almo/ z great an inh]itance4 ,!re seems no incongruity 9 ! heavy /one mang]s & f>-driv5 iron r+s :i* !y fix$ 9 ! walls ( ^? trem5d\s vaults on :i* ! ,temple area re/s2 & x is by a n unnatural transf]5ce t tradition has giv5 to ^! ! "n ( ,solomon's ,/ables4 ,solomon's vaults !y may h be51 b z /ables !y 7 ( crusad+ orig94 ,_! own build+ is a r\gh imitation ( ! draft$ /ones ( ! ,jews4 ,! ru/ic "w is mu* ! same1 only r\gh]1 b ! pla9 *isell+ is v f> f ! m9ute f95ess ( ! old] workman%ip4 ,altoge!r1 !y 7 fight]s fir/ & build]s second4 ,l ! m5 ( ,nehemiah's "t1 8e "o ) "o ( 8 h&s wr\ght 9 ! "w1 & ) ! o!r h& held a weapon4444 ,e "o _h 8 sword gird$ by 8 side1 & s build$40 ,nor did !y fail to utilise ! "w ( ,roman build]s4 ,at ,cs>ea !re is ! mo/ /rik+ in/ance ( ?is1 & "o ( ! mo/ sugge/ive facts 9 ! :ole /ory ( ! ,crusad]s4 ,cs>ea 0 ! mo/ ,roman ( all ,syrian t[ns4 ,built z ! seaport = ,seba/e by ,h]od1 x 0 ! "p ( ,syria :i* travell]s & gov]nors sail+ f ,italy fir/ sight$1 & x 0 design$ to give !m ! impression ( a l& ,romanis$4 ,h]od's delight 9 pill>s is atte/$ by ! colonnades ( ,seba/e1 & ! weal? ( %aft & capital :i* m>ks ! ru9s ( all 8 cities4 ,b 9 ,cs>ea he seems to h excell$ himself4 ,! ,roman mole :i* =ms ! nor!rn side ( ! h>b\r 8is compos$ ( "s sixty or sev5ty pro/rate columns ly+ side by side 9 ! wat] l r[s ( /r&$ logs40#ca ,on ! long promontory s\? ( ! mole /&s ! ,crusad] ,ca/le1 notable = ! circum/ance t ! ,crusad]s built hundr$s ( light] & %ort] columns into _! walls to ?or\gh-b9d !m1 s t1 9 ,oliphant's exact & graphic words1 8! butts project l r[s ( cannon f ! side ( a man-(-w>40 ,:i* ?+ is = an allegory2 & "o ( ! mo/ eloqu5t ( all s]mons 9 /one x is4 ,rome did m = ,*ri/ianity ?an all its fri5ds1 :ile %e 0 z yet its enemy4 ,)\t h] c\rts ( ju/ice ,paul w\ld h _h %ort %rift f 8 c\ntrym54 ,h] roads & h] citiz5%ip gave to ! fir/ mission>ies ( ! ,cross _! exit ^u ! _w & _! opportunity4 ,h] laws gave !m n protection only1 b a gr\ndwork = mu* t ent]$ into t !ology :i* conqu]$ ! ?\ght ( ! _w4 ,paul appeal$ unto ,cs>1 & he wrote to ! ,romans 8 gospel express$ 9 ! =ms ) :i* !y 7 mo/ famili>4 ,& x 0 at ,cs>ea t he made 8 appeal1 do+ 9 fle% & blood :at 8 disciples a ?\s& ye>s lat] did 9 /one--?or\gh-b9d+ ! walls ( ! build+ ( ,*ri/ian fai? ) ,roman columns4 ,,"p ,,iii ,,! ,,_s ,,( ,,syria ,9 ! fir/ & second p>ts ( ?is book we h be5 collect+ impressions ( ! ,l& & its ,invad]s4 ,x rema9s = u 9 ! ?ird "p to ga!r ^! toge!r into some?+ :i* may enable u to realise m cle>ly ! g5]al mean+ & quality ( ! _s ( ,syria4 ,9 ! ma9 two ?+s mu/ be not$1 & ! fir/ ( !m is religi\s4 ,:atev] else ,pale/9e may be1 %e is c]ta9ly a l& ) a ,god4 ,! mean+ ( ,syria is disclos$ 9 h] ,israelite & ,*ri/ian p]iods1 ^: great fact & *>act]i/ic process is ! revelation ( ,god to m5 on e>?4 ,all h] o!r invasions h to reckon ) t fact4 ,"s ( !m 7 bitt]ly ho/ile to x1 b !y 7 p[]less to efface x4 ,o!rs 7 indiff]5t1 ent]+ ,syria = ends ( _! own2 b hi/ory %ews !m b5t ov] to ,god's purposes & unconsci\sly made ! in/rum5ts ( work+ out ,8 w4 ,t w br\ght ,israel to h] l&1 isolat$ h] !re1 hemm$ h] 91 bore h] & c>ri$ h] 9 ev]la/+ arms on ?r\gh h] c5turies1 f9ally 0 inc>nate 9 h] life4 ,= ,jesus ,*ri/ 0 a ,syrian1 & we mu/ ori5talise our ?\ghts ( ,him be=e we c rightly und]/& ! ,*ri/ian revelation4 ,n less cle> is ! second impression1 :i* is t ( ! unf9i%$ness & imp]fection ( all ?+s ,syrian4 ,x is a place ( wreckage1 new & old4 ,b ! peculi>ity ( t wreckage is t x 0 always !re1 m or less4 ,none ( ! ideals ( ! l& 7 ev] q realis$4 ,x 0 nev] completely conqu]$ by ! ,israelites1 _! ambition /opp+ %ort & _! en]gy flagg+ be=e _! task 0 done4 ,x 0 nev] completely cultivat$1 or made to yield its full h>ve/ ( natural weal?4 ,9 c\ntless small ?+s ?is incomplet5ess is evid5t4 ,! contra/ betwe5 ! beauty ( ! di/ant view & ! disord] & slov5l9ess ( ! ne> has be5 already not$4 ,! po/-(fice 9 ,damascus is a q good po/-(fice1 s f> z lett]s & telegrams g4 ,b y inquire = ^! 9 a hall :i* looks l a v dirty /able-y>d ) a v dirty f\nta9 9 ! middle ( x1 furni%$ ) little r\gh-sawn wood5 boxes = private lett]s1 su* z no self-respect+ groc] w\ld pack ) oranges4 ,ev5 ! tombs1 ab\t :i* s mu* sacr$ness is suppos$ to ga!r1 are ! untidie/ ( sepul*res4 ,y may see a l>ge & exp5sive tomb/one1 %9+ :ite 9 ! di/ance1 ) all ! air ( ari/ocratic self-importance :i* man's pride c l5d to dea?2 b :5 y approa*1 x is rail$ (f ) bamboo & b>b$ wire :i* might h be5 pick$ (f a rubbi%-heap4 ,!re are good roads 9 places1 b !y lead to n[h]e4 ,g5]ally !y collapse into m]e wat]c\rses aft] a few miles1 or !y run on 9 a squ>$ & measur$ lane ( %>p b\ld]s d[n :i* no horse c walk4 ,nor is ?is incomplet5ess a peculi>ity ( ,turki% adm9i/ration4 ,probably no?+ 9 ,pale/9e is old] ?an ! l&m>ks :i* divide ! fields4 ,f g5]ation to g5]ation ^! h be5 held sacr$1 laws aga9/ _! removal hav+ be5 9 =ce among ! anci5t ,canaanites be=e ! conque/ by ,israel4 ,s sacr$ are !y t ev5 murd]]s & ?ieves w seldom d>e to tamp] ) !m4 ,yet ?r\gh all ! long pa/ ! l&m>ks are said to h rema9$ z ! fir/ m5 laid !m d[n--m]e inconspicu\s heaps ( little /ones1 ! easie/ ?+s 9 ! _w to remove4 ,:5 we take ! unf9i%$ness ( ! l& along ) ! revelation & consid] !m toge!r1 we c h>dly fail to ga9 a lesson ( f>-rea*+ mean+4 ,! great incomplet5ess ( ,syria--! ?+ 9 :i* h] life has be5 mo/ lam5tably unf9i%$--0 h] response to ! revelation ( h] ,god4 ,%e nev] 0 at pa9s to und]/& x2 %e nev] fully op5$ h] he>t to its new progress1 nor felt h] high de/9y z ! be>] ( good tid+s to ! _w4 ,%e nev] s]i\sly set h]self to obey its pla9e/ e?ical dem&s4 ,! wreckage is h] price paid = ! neglect4 ,no man nor nation c f9i% any task to p]fection1 :o has n done ju/ice to su* revelation ( ,god z 8 he>t & consci5ce h receiv$4 ,x is tru? to ! inw>d light t keeps u f los+ he>t & enables u to feel t en]gy & pati5ce to ! end are wor? our :ile4 ,"r deal+ ) revelation is ! secret ( all effici5t p]=mance4 ,! comb9ation 9 ,pale/9e ( su* revelation & su* defect 9 /r5u\s action %[s u a l& t has j miss$ ! mo/ amaz+ de/9y on e>?4 ,x is 9 ! remembrance ( ^! ?\ghts t ! *apt]s ( ?is "p %\ld be read4 ,! ,%ad[ ( ,dea? has fall5 because ^! m5 c\ld n escape _! k ( "s greatness 9 dea?1 m mov+ ?an any?+ life _h to %[4 ,! spectral is b a deg5]ate & p]v]se =m ( _! s5se ( ,god4 ,! ,cross gives its e?ical significance to ! burd5 & sorr[ ( ! l&4 ,resurrection %[s signs ev5 n[ t ,god has n yet done ) ,syria4 ,b fir/1 be=e we treat ^! aspects ( h] _s1 let u look at x on its bright] side--! smile & song ( ! l&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,int]ior ,,( ,,! ,,dome ,,( ,,! ,,rock 7,,mosque ,,( ,,om>71 ,,f ,,! ,,s\?-,,ea/4 ,,*apt] ,i ,,! ,,light] ,,side ,,( ,,?+s ,"o easily =gets1 among ! _m sorr[s ( ! ,holy ,l&1 t !re is any light] side to ! picture !re4 ,yet su* a side !re is1 & always has be54 ,nature is n always sev]e1 nor ! _s ( man melan*oly1 9 ! ,ea/4 ,bo? nature & man are sometimes f\nd 9 light] ve9 "h z else:]e4 ,/ev5son's mo/ *>m+ good ^w = ! _w he always def5d$ s gallantly1 is specially applicable to ! ,syrian "p ( x4--8,x is a %aggy _w1 & yet /udd$ ) g>d5s2 :]e ! salt & tumbl+ sea receives riv]s runn+ f among re$s & lilies40 ,syria has always kn[n ! value ( h] g>d5s1 & felt ! sweet en*antm5t ( h] re$s & lilies4 ,0 n h] fir/ /ory told ( a g>d5 :]e f\r su* riv]s fl[$1 & h] noble/ s]mon t ^: text 0 8! lilies ( ! field0 & 8! birds ( ! air08 ,:at pleasantness ( op5 nature !re is 9 ^! two latt] expressions6 ,:at s5se ( field-bread? & sky-space1 9 :i* ! ,prea*] _h room = brea?+ & = delight6 ,e ,israelite1 sitt+ "u 8 v9e & fig tree1 or go+ =? to m$itate 9 ! fields at ev5+1 knew ?is *>m4 ,f ( old ! inhabitants h tak5 delight 9 ex*ang+ ro(s = b[]s 9 _! fields & g>d5s1 or = boo?s1 built ) gre5 bran*es on _! h\se-ro(s4 ,_m a sweet vi/a is se5 9 ,pale/9e fram$ 9 trellis$ v9es or 9 passion-fl[] sw++ ov] a ro($ f\nta9 or a g>d5 h\se4 ,! m\nta9s 7 (t5 b>e & unhomely1 = at no "t c any b a m9or "p ( !m h be5 cultivat$2 yet ev5 ! w9d-swept heights 7 inhabit$ by heal? & hope & gladness1 & :5 a %eph]d pass$ by1 or ! reap]s %\t$ 9 ! h>ve/-fields1 ! he>t ( ! m5 ( ,israel sang al\d4 ,9 ! words ( ! #fe? ,psalm ?is exhil>ation & *ildlike glee f9ds its mo/ p]fect expression2 we quote !m 9 t old ,scotti% rhym$ v]sion :i* has s s+ul>ly caught _! _s3-- ,!y drop ^u ! pa/ures wide1 ,t d 9 des]ts lie2 ,! little hills on ev'ry side ,rejoice "r pleasantly4 ,) flocks ! pa/ures clo!d be1 ,! vales ) corn are clad2 ,& n[ !y %\t & s+ to !e1 ,= ?\ ha/ made !m glad4 ,simil>ly ! ,jordan1 usually ?\ght ( ) a c]ta9 gloom1 & r5d]$ /ill m dismal by its p]si/5t allegorical association ) dea?1 is by no means s melan*oly z x is suppos$ to be4 ,its rise1 inde$1 0 f a black cave1 :]e anci5t pagan wor%ip erect$ its %r9es1 see+ life issue !re f ! abyss ( dea?4 ,its c\rse leads x f> d[n1 l ! d>k /ream ( classic fable1 bel[ ! surface ( ! e>? & ocean4 ,yet !re is no s5se ( all t z "o looks at x f any po9t 9 its c\rse4 ,! trees ( ,syria are g5]ally disappo9t+4 ,= ! mo/ "p solit>y1 or und]siz$ :]e !re is a wood1 _m ( !m are decay+1 & mo/ ( !m are dull 9 col\r4 ,b ! vegetation ( ! ,jordan is a bright exception4 ,ev5 at its l[e/ po9t1 :5 x is hurry+ ov] ! la/ miles to ! ,dead ,sea1 x fl[s ?r\gh t ri* boscage kn[n z ! 8,swell+s0 or ! 8,pride0 ( ,jordan1 :]e pilgrims cut _! /aves4 ,x is to ?is "p ( its c\rse t ! words 9 ,tancr$ apply mo/ exactly1 8,! beauty & abundance ( ! ,promis$ ,l& may /ill be f\nd 444 ev] by ! ru%+ wat]s ( ! b[]y ,jordan40 ,w>burton1 describ+ ! same sc5e 9 e>ly morn+1 speaks ( ! awak5+ ( birds & bea/s !re1 & !n ! sunrise1 add+1 8,i l+]$ long ^u t m\nta9's br[1 & ?\ght t1 s f> f des]v+ all ! dismal epi!ts t _h be5 be/[$ ^u x1 ,i _h n se5 s *e]ful or attractive a sc5e 9 ,pale/9e40 ,! sc5ts ( ! ,ea/ add to ! delightfulness ( ,nature on h] pleasant side4 ,!re are pl5ty ( abom9able smells !re1 b ^! are 9 ! t[ns & villages4 ,! op5 c\ntry is cont9ually surpris+ & refre%+ its travell]s ) new p]fume4 ,t ?is is fully appreciat$ by ! natives1 no read] ( ! ,bible c =get4 ,!re we h ! sc5t ( spices & ( w9e2 ( ! field1 ( wat]1 & ( ,lebanon2 ( budd+ v9es1 m&rakes1 apples2 ( o9tm5t1 ( inc5se1 & ( raim5t4 ,9 su* ref]5ces we see ! ,ea/ inhal+ ! fragrance ( ! l& ) an almo/ passionate delight4 ,x is all !re /ill4 ,! sc5t ( ! des]t aft] ra9 has be5 already ref]r$ to1 b ! same aromatic p]fume may be enjoy$ by climb+ ! hills above ,beyr\t1 :]e e gr\nd-plant seems to brea! =? spices4 ,aga91 !re are ! blossom+ trees1 ! heavy p]fume ( orange-fl[]1 & ! simple fragrance ( roses4 ,be/ ( all1 !re is ! clean smell ( ripe gra9 9 ! cornfields1 & ! fre%1 br9y exhil>ation ( breezes f ! sea4 ,su* is ! light] side ( ,nature2 & man is n by any means s f> out ( t\* ) x z is (t5 suppos$4 ,! sev]ity ( mat]ial conditions & ( hi/orical exp]i5ce has n be5 able q to suppress man's gaiety4 ,x is well t ?is has be5 s1 = "h c]ta9ly ! words ( ! ,scots song are true en\gh3 8,w]5a my he>t li*t1 ,i wad dee40 ,) s mu* ( ! d>k] p[]s ( ! univ]se press+ h>d ^u !m1 "o trembles to imag9e :at ! _s ( ,syria w\ld h be5 )\t ^? inexhau/ible /ores ( gaiety t break =? sometimes l h] great riv] f ! v d>kness ( ! abyss4 ,h] laught] is n t ( progressive l&s look+ to ! future 9 ! great joy ( an intellig5t hope4 ,x is r a "p ( h] inali5able *ildhood1 ^: fre% sweetness & virg9ity h someh[ be5 p]mitt$ to rema9 ?r\gh all h] sorr[s4 ,r5an describes ! h]oes ( ! ,bible z 8always "y1 heal?y1 & /rong1 sc>cely at all sup]/iti\s1 passionate1 simple1 & gr&40 ,!re is /ill "s inh]itance ( su* life1 p]petually "y & ev5 *ildi%1 9 ! ,holy ,l&4 ,! fir/ appe>ance ( an ,ea/]n is grave & solemn1 ) an elem5t ( contempt 9 x r try+ to ! w\ld-be je/] or too famili> /rang]4 ,b ?is is n :olly due to any weight ( gloom press+ on 8 he>t4 ,x has1 ) s+ul> +5uity1 be5 trac$ to q m9or & app>5tly insignificant causes1 su* z ! we>+ ( fl[+ robes by ! m5 & ! burd5-be>+ ( ! wom54 ,!re c be no d\bt t bo? clo!s & burd5s ex]cise a p[]ful influ5ce on "*2 & x may well be ! case t ! managem5t ( _! g>m5t has taught dignity to ! m51 :ile ! c>ry+ ( heavy wat]pots has help$ to make ! wom5 graceful & erect4 ,!re is also ! in/9ct ( self-def5ce1 & ! con/ant remembrance ( dang]4 ,e ,ea/]n1 h[ev] prosp]\s1 impresses "o ) ! idea t 8 table is spread = him 9 ! pres5ce ( 8 enemies4 ,?is leads him--especially if he be an ,arab--to assume a %[ ( sup]iority & a bully+ swagg]1 :i* seem to ! un9itiat$ q imp]vi\s to any ?\ght ( fun4 ,b ! mask is easily laid aside1 & ! grave/ & mo/ contemptu\s ,syrian w sudd5ly collapse into h>% laught] or =get himself 9 *ildi% int]e/4 ,x w\ld be wond]ful if x 7 o!rwise4 ,! ,ea/ is full ( provocatives to mir?--n m]ely su* z seem ridicul\s to a /rang] because !y are =eign1 b ?+s grotesque 9 !mselves4 ,take ! "o in/ance ( ! camel4 ,mu* has be5 writt5 ab\t him f _m po9ts ( view1 b ju/ice has nev] yet be5 done to ! camel z a humor\s p]son4 ,yet he is ! mo/ humor\s ( all ! inhabitants ( ! ,ea/4 ,beside him1 ) 8 s>donic pleasantry1 ! monkey is a m\ntebank & ! donkey b a solemn little ass4 ,he has be5 describ$ z 8! tall1 simple1 smil+ camel02 b on clos] acqua9tance he turns out to be h>dly s simple z he might be tak5 =1 & if he smiles1 he is g5]ally smil+ at y4 ,! camels y meet 9 ,syria are c>ry+ b>ley ) ! air ( k+s1 & reg>d+ _! human companions )1 at be/1 a s5tim5t ( contemptu\s tol]ance4 ,! l[] lip ( a camel is "o ( ! mo/ expressive features 9 ! :ole rep]toire ( natural hi/ory4 ,! hum\rs ( ?is animal rea*$ = u _! climax at ,%eikh ,misk91 :ile we 7 wait+ = ! ,damascus tra94 ,a camel _h be5 p]suad$ to kneel 9 ord] to receive its load ( long poles br\ght by ! railway4 ,x 0 ro>+ /eadily1 9 a fi5di% & yet consci5ti\s mann]4 ,t5 m5 7 load+ x1 ( :om "o /ood ^u its ne> =e-leg1 two fa/5$ ! poles ^u its back1 & ! rema9+ sev5 look$ on & made rem>ks4 ,! bea/ wait$ until ! poles 7 all b fix$--t5 ( !m or s4 ,!n x indulg$ 9 a %ake1 :i* s5t !m roll+ 9 all directions4 ,f9ally x 0 load$1 ) two ( ! /icks on "o side & "o on ! o!r1 _! ends project+ f> out beh9d & 9 front4 ,x rose1 ne>ly ru9+ a well-dress$ ,arab :o _h someh[ got 9 among x4 ,j !n ! tra9 arriv$ & ! camel fl$ incont95tly1 sidewise l a crab1 spread+ ! fe> ( dea? 9 man & bea/ = _m y>ds ar\nd1 & dragg+ a t]rifi$ driv]1 :o hung on to its head-rope1 across t[>ds ! di/ant ea/4 ,a load$ camel behav+ 9 ?is fa%ion is a deadli] weapon ?an a load$ gun4 ,n[ ! native wit always appe>$ to u to h modell$ itself on camel droll]y ( ?is sort4 ,x is g5]ally p]sonal1 & its ess5tial function is to hit somebody4 ,x lacks fre%ness1 & has a c]ta9 sugge/ion ( a cl[n ) 8cr['s feet0 "u 8 eyes4 ,sometimes inde$ a ,syrian indulges 9 jokes at 8 own exp5se1 b m frequ5tly 8 faceti\sness is at ! exp5se ( o!rs1 & x is tol]ably direct4 ,! habit ( nicknames l5ds itself to ,ori5tal wit1 ! lean man be+ describ$ famili>ly z 8,fa!r ( ,bones10 & ! /\t man z 8,full ,moon ( ,religion40 ,pass+ ?r\gh a village "s di/ance (f ! usual r\te ( travell]s1 we 7 surr\nd$ ) villag]s :o ask$ ! dragoman :y we _h come4 8,to take away y\r c\ntry60 0 ! answ]1 & x 0 met ) peals ( laught]4 ,ano!r witticism :i* 0 imm5sely appreciat$ 0 ! rem>k to "s f>m]s :o 7 suff]+ f dr\ght t we 9 ,engl& _h /ol5 _! ra9 & x _h made _m p sick !re4 ,a boatman on ! ,sea ( ,galilee 0 be+ *aff$ unm]cifully ^u ! fact t he _h once tri$ to commit suicide4 ,he appeal$1 smil+1 to "o ( ! pass5g]s z 8,my ,fa!r10 & pl$ t he _h be5 mad :5 he did t4 ,a fell[-boatman rebuk$ him = call+ ! g5tleman 8fa!r ( a lunatic10 & ! :ole crew 0 dissolv$ 9 laught]1 ! victim himself he>tily jo9+ 9 ! *orus4 ,9 ,damascus we f\nd a "t-worn ,joe ,mill] 9 ! %\t ( ! nosegay-sell]--a v musical cry1 :i* ! guide-book translates 8,appease y\r "m-9-law10 i4e4 by pres5t+ h] ) a b\quet4 ,f ( old pleasure has be5 apt to deg5]ate 9 ! luxuri\s ,ea/1 & ! fun ( ,syrians %[s abundant traces ( su* deg5]ation4 ,_m unpleasant elem5ts m+le ) x4 ,"o ( ! recognis$ =ces 9 ,ea/]n life is humbug--b>efac$ bluff & transp>5t pret5ce1 :i* is app>5tly se5 ?r\gh & yet reta9s its pot5cy4 ,! l5g?s to :i* ?is me?od may g are almo/ incr$ible1 & cases are on record ( int]pret]s :o h volubly translat$ a long ,engli% address & aft]w>ds confess$ t !y did n "k a ^w ( ! ,engli% language4 ,at times1 also1 high spirits leads to savag]y4 ,! m5 :o 7 9 *>ge ( our animals 7 k9d & ev5 affectionate to !m1 b _! moods *ang$ unacc\ntably4 ,y\r donkey-driv]1 trott+ beh9d 8 donkey1 w sometimes enc\rage x ) yell+ :i* w\ld fill any animal less philosophical ) ! fe> ( in/ant ext]m9ation1 & he jocul>ly ?r[s rocks at x until y /op him4 ,wor/ ( all1 ! ,syrian hum\r con/antly t5ds t[>ds indec5cy ( ! mo/ be/ial type4 ,! song ) :i* a musical donkey-boy relieves ! monotony ( ! j\rney is sometimes q untranslatable4 ,! 8body-dances10 :i* =m ! /aple ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,m\nt ,,( ,,olives1 ,,f ,a ,,h\se-,,top ,,on ,,m\nt ,,zion4 ent]ta9m5t provid$ by w&]+ ,arabs1 are (t5 pantomimic1 & _! crude realism is unspeakably disgu/+4 ,yet !re is a v innoc5t & *e]ful ve9 9 ! human nature ( ,syria4 ,at times x is irrelevant & try+4 ,! camp gu>ds1 e4g4 :o are hir$ f ! ne>e/ village to wat* ! sleep+ t5ts1 are apt to beguile ! h\rs ( d>kness 9 a mann] h>dly conducive to repose4 ,9 mo/ ( our camps !y 7 sil5t figures1 flitt+ ab\t 9 an almo/ gho/ly fa%ion1 ) p]fectly noiseless foot/eps4 ,b ,mac,gregor compla9s ( hav+ _h to pay 8 ,egyptian gu>ds 8= sleep+ v l\d to keep away ! robb]s40 ,our difficulties 7 n exactly ! same z 81 b 9 "s places ! gu>ds kept s++ z !y pac$ to & fro1 & %\t$ *e]ily to "o ano!r along ! :ole l5g? ( ! encampm5t1 or :i/l$ incessantly1 & occasionally fir$ guns to prove _! vigilance4 ,!re is a s5se ( spontaneity & he>t9ess ab\t ! mir? ( ! ,ea/ :i* ?r[s into /rong contra/ its subtl] & m gloomy *>act]i/ics4 ,irresponsible & gay1 ,syrians seem to be gr[n-up *ildr51 & !y reta9 ! ways ( *ildhood4 ,we r>ely saw *ildr5 play+ games1 b b&s ( full-gr[n m5 7 se5 at times play+ s*oolboys' field games ) mu* %\t+4 ,ev]ybody 9 ! cities appe>s to be ei!r sell+ or eat+ sweetmeats4 ,sport is r>e1 b m5 g =? ) guns to %oot little birds l sp>r[s4 ,"o ( ! mo/ curi\s sights ( ,damascus is t ( %opkeep]s & artisans :o g ab\t ! /reets foll[$ by pet lambs in/ead ( dogs1 ! wool ( ^! /range little creatures be+ dy$ 9 brilliant spots ( blue or p9k4 ,! k9dl9ess ( ! ,ea/ is z g5u9e & z pleas+ z t ( any l& 9 ! ,we/4 ,x is n 9 evid5ce inde$ :5 !re is no?+ to call x =?4 ,z y pass ?r\gh ! c\ntry1 ! villag]s & t[nsfolk reg>d y ) indiff]5ce if n ) scorn4 ,b "o mu/ rememb] ! univ]sal act+ ( ! ,ea/--its devotion to appe>ances1 & its v curi\s ideas z to :i* appe>ances are mo/ becom+4 ,) t 9 m9d1 ! indiff]5ce & ! scorn become less al>m+4 ,y may f9d ! :ole _s ( ! situation sudd5ly *ange to "o ( ! k9dlie/4 ,a travell] :o has fall5 victim to "o ( ! mal>ial fev]s :i* are s common 9 ,syria at c]ta9 p]iods1 w nev] =get ! t5d]ness ) :i* 8 camp-s]vants come ab\t 8 t5t inquir+1 8,ente mabsut80 7,are y happy1 or well874 ,:5 he returns ! inquiry ! answ] is1 8,ente mabsut1 ana mabsut0 7,if y are happy1 ,i am happy74 ,at ,sidon we _h j arriv$ & _h ! t5ts pit*$ 9 ! op5 space next ! bury+-gr\nd4 ,x 0 ,?ursday1 & ! graves 7 cr[d$ ) visitors--,mohamm$an wom5 9 black1 :ite1 or light-col\r$ robes4 ,!y did n seem v sad1 ev5 beside ! mo/ rec5t graves1 b gossip$ & enjoy$ _! half-holiday1 disappe>+ be=e sunset sil5tly1 l a flock ( pigeons to _! dovecots4 ,! spectacle 0 !atrical & almo/ une>?ly4 ,x 0 difficult to p]suade oneself t ^! flitt+ figures 7 really wom5 at all2 !y seem$ r to be animat$ bits ( l&scape4 ,j :ile we 7 wat*+ ?is1 & feel+ all its dreamy remot5ess f human life z we _h ev] kn[n x1 two new figures appe>$4 ,!y 7 ! g>d5] ( a neighb\r+ g>d5 & 8 "y daught] ,wurda 7,rhoda1 ,rose74 ,%e 0 five ye>s ( age1 a t9y vision ( black eyes & hair1 ! hair be+ arrang$ 9 two pigtails d[n h] back4 ,%e br\ght a little bun* ( roses = ea* ( u1 & z %e gave !m kiss$ our h&s ) z sweet a %yness z any *ild any:]e c\ld h done4 ,! incid5t1 l t on ! hill ( ,sam>ia1 l+]s on ! memory1 & be>s witness to a _w ( g5tl5ess & k9dl9ess su* z we _h little dream$ (4 ,altoge!r !re are abundant signs t 9 anci5t days !re mu/ h be5 mu* ( t ,syrian life describ$ by "o s*ol> z 8gay & bright1 fe/ive & musical--! v home ( songs & dances40 ,x is pleasant to "k t al?\gh ! =tunes ( ! l& h sadd5$ h] s t]ribly1 !re /ill rema9s some?+ at lea/ ( h] =m] gaiety4 ,ev5 ! religion ( ,syria has its light] side4 ,e /ud5t ( ! ,bible kn[s h[ mu* !re 0 ( rejoic+ & fre% *ildlike revell+ 9 ! situation1 9 ! wor%ip ( anci5t ,israel4 ,x is peculi>ly int]e/+ to f9d t 9 ! ,semitic wor%ip be=e & ap>t f ! invasion ( ,israel1 s k9dly & fri5dly a relation subsi/$ betwe5 man & 8 gods4 8,! circle into :i* a man 0 born 0 n simply a gr\p ( k9sfolk & fell[-citiz5s1 b embrac$ also c]ta9 div9e be+s1 ! gods ( ! family & ( ! /ate1 :i* to ! anci5t m9d 7 z mu* a "p ( ! p>ticul> community ) :i* !y /ood connect$ z ! human memb]s ( ! social circle40#cb ,accord+ly x w\ld appe> t among ^! anci5t ,semites ! conception ( sacrifice 0 by no means s gloomy z x came to be lat]1 :5 ! moral trag$y ( life 0 m cle>ly realis$4 ,! idea 0 t ( 8communion ) ! deity 9 a sacrificial meal ( holy food40 ,!y 8g on eat+ & dr9k+ & rejoic+ be=e _! god ) ! assurance t he & !y are on ! be/ ( jovial good t]ms4444 ,anci5t religion assumes t ?r\gh ! help ( ! gods life is s happy & satisfactory t ord9>y acts ( wor%ip are all brightness & hil>ity1 express+ no o!r idea ?an t ! wor%ipp]s are well cont5t ) !mselves & ) _! div9e sov]eign40#cc ,( c\rse ! sev]] tru? & clean] consci5ce :i* ,israel's revelation br\ght h] gradually deep5$ ! %ad[s on h] religi\s life4 ,%e sub/itut$ duty = happ9ess1 ! beauty ( hol9ess = ! m]e joie de vivre1 & ! tragic bless$ness ( =giv5ess = ! c>eless pleasures ( life4 ,yet to ! end %e reta9$ & insi/$ on ! gladness ( religion4 ,! duty ( joy 0 a comm& & n m]ely an epigram = ,israel4 ,dante himself 0 n m explicit 9 8 condemnation ( p]v]se sull5ness ?an 0 he :o wrote1 8,because ?\ s]v$/ n ! ,"l ?y ,god ) joyfulness1 & ) gladness ( he>t1 = ! abundance ( all ?+s3 !re=e %alt ?\ s]ve ?9e enemies40#cd ,x is surely a v /rik+ fact t ! spots :i* all travell]s select z ^? 9 :i* ! gladness ( ! l& dwells mo/ freely /ill are ,naz>e? & ,be?lehem4 ,= beauty ( feature & ( dress1 & = _! g5]al air ( pleasant & light-he>t$ gaiety1 ^! are ! ackn[l$g$ c5tres4 ,x 0 ( ,be?lehem t we felt ?is mo/ true4 ,its "n1 signify+ 8,h\se ( ,bread10 is significant ( pl5ty & ( com=t4 ,its associations1 ev5 ap>t f ! song ( angels !re1 are sweet & graci\s4 ,:ile approa*+ x1 y look across a pleasant & lightsome l&scape to ! dim blue m\nta9s ( ,moab1 & rememb] h[ ,ru? look$ across ^! v fields1 :5 ! reap]s ( ,boaz 7 work+ 9 !m1 to h] di/ant home 9 ^? m\nta9s4 ,"h x 0 t ,k+ ,david 9 8 boyhood play$ & t5d$ ! flocks ( 8 fa!r1 & x 0 ! wat] ( t sweet well = :i* he long$ 9 ! days ( 8 adv]sity4 ,^! & a hundr$ o!r memories prep>e ! travell] = a place ( graci\s & k9dly sweetness4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,! ,,%ad[ ,,( ,,dea? ,we n[ turn %>ply to ! o!r side ( ?+s1 & x mu/ be app>5t to e "o t we are pass+ f ! small] to ! va/ly great] elem5t 9 ! _s ( ,syria4 ,! text 9 ,deut]onomy :i* we quot$#ce %[s u joy comm&$ at ! sword's po9t1 z if ! nation 7 unwill+ & unlikely to obey easily ! happy comm&4 ,ev5 :5 ,jesus ,*ri/ repeats ! injunction 9 ,8 great words1 8,rejoice & be exce$+ glad10 x is a defiant gladness ,he enjo9s4 ,! context %[s t ! rejoic+ is t ( p]secut$ & sl&]$ m54 ,a rec5t writ] has bitt]ly describ$ our m>* ?r\gh life 9 ! words3 8,we uphold our wayw>d /eps ) ! promises & ! comm&m5ts = crut*es1 b on ei!r side ( u trudge ! %ad[ ,dea? & ! bac*anal ,sex40#cf ,! words s\nd pr(ane to ,we/]n e>s1 b !y are n untrue ( ! _s ( ,syria4 ,x is ( 8! %ad[ ,dea?0 t ! pres5t *apt] treats4 ,z primitive religion decay$ & m5 lo/ _! s5se ( k9%ip & _! easy & fri5dly relations ) ! old gods1 !y 7 left alone ) dea?1 :i* ev]y:]e />$ !m 9 ! face & claim$ !m = its own4 ,next to ,god1 dea? is ! mo/ impressive fact 9 human exp]i5ce1 ) s9 = its /+4 ,:5 old & defective views ( ,god are pass+ away1 two c\rses are op5 to m54 ,z dea? closes 9 ^u !m1 & !y feel its grasp ^u _! unprotect$ s\ls1 !y may appeal f x to ,god1 & f9d ,him reveal+ ,himself1 ) et]nal life = !m 9 ! k ( ,him4 ,?is 0 :at ! noble/ ( ,israel's ?9k]s did1 & ! gr[+ revelation ( ! ,bible 0 _! rew>d4 ,god %[$ ,himself to !m 9 ev]-increas+ cle>ness1 until "o & ano!r & ano!r ( !m f\nd t ! h& t grasp$ !m 0 8n ,dea? b ,love40 ,b ano!r c\rse is op54 ,!y may en?rone dea? 9 place ( ! brok5 gods--8,dea? is k+1 & vivat rex60 ,!y may 8say to corruption1 ,?\ art my fa!r2 to ! worm1 ,?\ art my "m1 & my si/]40 ,!n ! emphasis ( ?\ght w fall on ! grave1 & all m5's imag9ations w gr[ morbid4 ,! tombs ( ! ,holy ,l& are ( _m patt]ns4 ,9 8 ,haifa1 ,laur5ce ,oliphant describes sev]al diff]5t k9ds ( !m1 f ! cave-sepul*res1 or ! und]gr\nd gall]ies1 to ! little wayside graves or n>r[ holes driv5 into rock :i* seem su* tightly-fitt+ homes = ! dead4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 ! mod]n graves sacr$ to ! wives & *ildr5 ( mission>ies :o h laid d[n _! lives 9 ! lov+ s]vice ( ,*ri/ & man4 ,buckle ! hi/orian sleeps 9 ! ,*ri/ian bury+-gr\nd at ,damascus1 & ,h5riette ,r5an 0 laid to re/ 9 ,byblus4 ,^! graves & o!rs de> to ! ,we/]n _w are1 z graves h be5 s9ce ,abraham's day1 symbols ( ! /rang]s' inh]itance & lot 9 ! ,holy ,l&4 ,f ^!1 back to ! tombs ( ho>ie/ antiquity1 ! c\ntry is b\nd by an unbrok5 *a9 ( dea?4 ,?r\gh all ! c5turies ! dead h be5 ?ru/ ^u ! notice ( ! liv+ 9 a fa%ion s obtrusive z to make ?is ! mo/ obvi\s impression ( ! l&4 ,mo/ ( ! graves are ^? ( p]sons n[ unkn[n & q =gott54 ,small & great1 common m5 & h]oes1 are alike conspicu\s 9 dea?4 ,ea* ( ! invad]s has left 8 memorial1 & ! sites ( anci5t cities are trac$ by help ( _! bury+-gr\nds4 ,moslem tombs are ev]y:]e4 ,mo/ ( !m are oblong /ructures ( rude b solid masonry erect$ ov] %all[ graves4 ,9 "s cases a pa9t$ t>bu% 7fez-cap7 m>ks ! head & a little upright /one ! feet4 ,a slight holl[ is (t5 cut 9 ! flat top = birds to dr9k f4 ,tombs are clu/]$ among _! iris-fl[]s beside ! walls ( villages4 ,!y h crept up to ! v summit ( ! hill :i* ,gordon id5tifies z ,calv>y4 ,!y h encroa*$ on ! palace ( ,h]od's daught] at ,sam>ia4 ,!y cr[d ! gr\nd outside ! built-up 8,gate ,beautiful0 at ,j]usalem4 ,!re is1 to our feel+s1 a c]ta9 indec5cy 9 ?is promiscu\s invasion ( ! grave3 ,mohamm$ans seem ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,*ur* ,,( ,,! ,,nativity ,,at ,,be?lehem4 ,f a g>d5 on ! opposite hill4 to bury _! dead any:]e4 ,! ,crusad]s h left few] memorials ( !mselves 9 ! %ape ( tombs ?an "o might h expect$4 ,b>b>ossa's tomb we h already visit$4 ,= ! re/1 _! memorials are mo/ly ^? great build+s ^: ru9s /& to ?is day4 ,e>ly ,*ri/ianity1 too1 has left its tombs--catacombs & s+le graves1 especially 9 ! s\!rn "p ( ! coa/1 & ea/w>ds 9 ,hauran4 ,p ( importance h sometimes m ?an "o tomb1 l ,/4 ,george1 :o is buri$ bo? 9 ,lydda & ,damascus4 ,b ! graves ( humbl] ,*ri/ians are m preci\s ?an ^!1 = _! inscriptions rema91 brea?+ =? ! fai? & peace ) :i* ,*ri/ _h bless$ ! _w4 ,su* memorials ( victory ov] dea? are inext+ui%able lamps hung 9 ! sepul*res ( ,syria4 ,& ^! lamps are k9dl$ at ! ,great ,light4 ,nev] 0 symbolism m appropriate ?an t ( ! ,holy ,fire 9 ! ,*ur* ( ! ,sepul*re4 ,! v he>t & s\l ( ,syria is a tomb--! reput$ grave ( ,jesus ,*ri/4 ,to ?is day ! *ief pilgrim song repeats ) exultant reit]ation ! words1 8,?is is ! tomb ( ,*ri/40 ,x is a song :i* has nev] be5 sil5t 9 ! l&4 ,9 ! ,crusad] camps a h]ald clos$ ! day ) ! l\d cry1 8,"l1 succ\r ! ,holy ,sepul*re02 & ! s5t9els pass$ ! ^w f po/ to po/1 8,rememb] ! ,holy ,sepul*re40 ,x is n1 h[ev]1 ! victory ov] dea? t impresses "o z ! _s ( ,syria4 ,x is dea? itself1 unconqu]$1 my/]i\s1 & d>k4 ,its ,*ri/ian tombs are few & f> betwe5 comp>$ ) ! c\ntless multitude ( sepul*res :]e !re is no lamp alight4 ,mo/ common & mo/ impressive ( ^! are ! ,roman & ,greek graves4 ,! s&s ( ,tyre & ,sidon are /rewn ) s>cophagi4 ,"h a man's magnific5tly c>v$ /one c(f9 s]ves = a dr9k+-tr\gh1 !re a little *ild's /&s alone & desolate ne> a riv] m\?4 ,9 ,sidon ! anci5t cemet]y is on a scale ^: rifl$ gr&eur speaks volumes conc]n+ ! vanity ( e>?ly greatness4 ,at ,gad>a1 ! ea/w>d road is a m9iature ,appian ,way3 holl[ to ! tread ( horses z !y cross ! excavat$ rock1 & adorn$ ) s>cophagi c>v$ ) cr[ns & g>l&s1 b be>+ inscriptions )\t hope 9 !m4 ,f>!r nor?1 on ! ea/]n slopes ( ,h]mon1 we f\nd a f> old] monum5t ne> "o ( ! ,druse villages4 ,we 7 cross+ a little brook1 :5 we notic$ t ! bridge consi/$ ( two huge monoli?ic slabs ( lime/one1 :i*1 on exam9ation1 appe>$ to be ! lids ( anci5t s>cophagi4 ,! c>v+ on ! ends 0 obvi\sly int5d$ to repres5t figures ( *]ubim or "s su* w+$ creatures4 ,! heads 7 gone1 b ! plumage ( ! w+s 0 v p]fectly pres]v$4 ,no "o 9 ! locality knew any?+ ab\t _! orig94 ,_! g5]al appe>ance seem$ to connect !m ) ! f> ,ea/4 ,! ,jewi% tombs are ^? :i* impress ! imag9ation mo/ ) ! bitt]ness ( dea? 9 ,syria4 ,!y are s sad1 ) _! antique solemnity--s sev]ely simple & unadorn$4 ,:]e !re is c>v+ x is almo/ always ( ,roman or ,*ri/ian workman%ip4 ,a few /ones ) su* symbols z ! sev5-bran*$ c&le/ick engrav$ on !m are ! only unque/ionable rema9s ( ornam5tal ,jewi% "w4 ,few ( ! ,jewi% sepul*res h escap$ appropriation by ,g5tiles4 ,! m fam\s ( !m h be5 appropriat$ by ! ,mohamm$ans1 & e>ly ,*ri/ian tradition is responsible = _m o!r ind5tifications4 ,! sa9ts & h]oes ( ,israel1 claim$ also by ,mohamm$ans & ,*ri/ians1 h a*iev$ a k9d ( fun]eal immortality :i* makes ! :ole l& seem "o va/ gravey>d4 ,e prospect is dott$ ) tombs4 ,! tomb ( ,jonas %9es :ite f its hill-top nor? ( ,hebron1 t ( ,samuel nor? ( ,j]usalem1 :ile ,joseph's tomb comm&s ! view :]e ! ,vale ( ,%e*em op5s on ! wid] valley ( ,makhnah4 ,none ( !m1 h[ev]1 is at all s impressive z ! tomb ( ,ra*el1 :]e a mod]n h\se & dome cov] a r\gh block ( /one worn smoo? ) ! kisses ( c5turies ( ,jewi% wom54 ,! wail+1 z we saw x !re1 is a memorable cu/om4 ,! wom5 7 mo/ly eld]ly or ag$1 b !y 7 weep+ real te>s & wail+ bitt]ly z !y kiss$ ! /one4 ,x is an old /ory t consecrates t r\gh /one1 b h[ et]nal is its human pa?os3 8,& !y j\rney$ f ,be!l2 & !re 0 b a little way to come to ,ephra?3 & ,ra*el travail$1 & %e _h h>d lab\r4444 ,& ,ra*el di$1 & 0 buri$ 9 ! way to ,ephra?1 :i* is ,be?lehem40#cg ,! e>li] fa%ion ( ,jewi% "w seems to h be5 ! 8pigeon-hole10 9 :i* ! corpse 0 ?ru/ into a little tunnel six feet long driv5 at "r angles to ! rock face4 ,lat]1 tr\ghs 7 excavat$ to fit ! body along ! l9e ( ! rock4 ,9 "s in/ances ^! graves1 especially ! =m] k9d1 are f\nd 9 deta*$ gr\ps 9 wayside rocks1 ^: p]p5dicul> faces front ! op5 air4 ,= ! mo/ "p !y are gr\p$ 9 l>g] numb]s )9 natural caves or subt]ranean excavations1 ^: l[ doorway is block$ by a l>ge circul> /one runn+ 9 a groove4 ,a lat] example ( su* a cave is t :i* is %ewn z ! 8new tomb0 ( ,joseph ( ,arima!a1 close to ,gordon's ,calv>y4 ,a few specim5s ( ano!r sort1 built ( masonry )\t cem5t1 are to be f\nd 9 ,galilee4#ch ,no?+ c\ld be gloomi] ?an ! con/antly repeat$ ru9s ( anci5t ,jewi% graves 9 ,syria4 ,no day's j\rney is )\t !m4 ,!y meet y casually1 z x 71 at e turn+4 ,!y are n1 inde$1 q d>k l ! pagan tombs2 b ! twilight1 9 :i* ! hope ( immortality j broke ! d>kness = anci5t ,israel1 is grey & *e]less1 & ! contribution ( ,jewi% graves to ! _s ( ,syria is a v sombre "o4 ,! typical spot = ?is side ( ! _s ( ,syria is ! t[n ( ,hebron4 ,! lanes & ! d>k baza> are fil?y & f\l-smell+4 ,! mosque is an impressive build+1 sugge/ive ( milit>y r ?an devotional ideas4 ,! ,tomb ( ,abraham1 :i* x cov]s1 is "o ( ! sights :i* only a v few ,*ri/ian eyes h se54 ,x is p]mitt$ to none b ,mohamm$ans to approa* ne>] ! entrance to x ?an ! sev5? /ep ( ! lane1 or /aircase1 alongside its ea/]n wall4 ,!re is a hole 9 t wall :i* is suppos$ to communicate ) ! cave bel[4 ,jews write lett]s to ,abraham1 & place !m 9 ?is hole1 to tell him h[ badly !y are be+ treat$ by ! ,moslems4 ,b ! ,moslem boys are said to "k t ! hole has no great dep?1 & to collect ^! lett]s & burn !m be=e ,abraham has se5 !m4 ,! tomb is ! v he>t & black c5tre ( ! ,%ad[ ( ,dea? 9 ,pale/9e4 ,!re is no "p ( man's fai? 9 :i* x is m necess>y to be ?or\ghgo+ ?an 9 8 ?\ghts ab\t immortality4 ,egypt & ,greece furni% examples ( great significance "h4 ,egypt held an elaborate doctr9e ( ! future life1 & x dom9at$ all h] ?\ght conc]n+ ?is life4 ,m5 built _! tombs & k+s _! pyramids z ! mo/ important ( _! life's a*ievem5ts4 ,! e>?ly h\se ( ! ,egyptian 0 b an inn :]e he sp5t a little "t 9 pass+2 8 tomb 0 8 et]nal h\se & real home4 ,?us ! tombs 7 glorifi$ copies ( ! dwell+-h\ses1 ei!r ( ! pres5t1 or m (t5 ( a =m] g5]ation4#ci ,greece1 on ! o!r h&1 did n believe 9 a life beyond ! grave4 ,h] fun]al celebrations 7 full ( lam5tation1 & h] inscriptions s\nd sad en\gh to u4 ,b x 0 a pr9ciple ) ,greece & ,rome to decorate tombs exclusively ) glad symbols su* z sculptur$ fl[]s & ev5 dances4#dj ,! po9t to be obs]v$ ab\t ^! is t nei!r ( !m 0 morbid4 ,morbidness appe>s to avoid a robu/ fai? or a frank scepticism1#da & to cl+ ab\t ! ?\ght :i* is nei!r sure ( "o ?+ nor ano!r4 ,israel's position 9 reg>d to ! belief 9 immortality is extremely difficult to def9e4 ,x 0 obvi\sly ) h] a ?+ ( gradual developm5t1 z h] revelation op5$ its broad5+ light ^u life's problems4 ,he w\ld be a bold critic :o w\ld sum up ! situation ( ,isaiah's "t z ,r5an does 9 ! /atem5t1 8n look+ beyond ! _w = rew>d & puni%m5t10 ! ,hebrew life 8has a h]oic t5sion1 a su/a9$ cry1 an unceas+ att5tion to ! ev5ts ( ! _w40 ,ev]y?+ goes to %ew t long be=e ! fai? 9 immortality _h grasp$ ! imag9ation & ! belief ( ! p 9 g5]al x _h be5 reveal$ to *os5 spirits4 ,z = ! o!rs1 x _h be5 work+ its way among !m1 occupy+ _! m9ds 9 speculation1 & lead+ !m1 z x 71 among ! %ades ( ! ne!r _w4 ,!re 0 some?+ 9 ! g5ius ( ! nation :i* r5d]$ ?is int]e/ 9 dea? q inevitable4 ,! natural be>+ ( ! p has a /range solemnity ab\t x1 :i* f9ds con/ant expression 9 pose & ge/ure1 & (t5 /rikes ! /rang] ) sudd5 vividness4 ,wom5 may be (t5 se51 especially :5 clad 9 ?9 :ite g>m5ts on holidays1 :o might /& j z y see !m z models = monum5tal sculpture4 ,along ) all its activities1 !re is a di/9ct sympa?y ) dea? 9 ! g5ius ( ,israel4 ,?is ph5om5on is1 ( c\rse1 due to v complex causes4 ,x is a deep-root$ ,semitic in/9ct1 :i* seems to be n altoge!r unlike t ( ! ,egyptian feel+ to ! tomb z ! real home4 ,"s p>ts ( ,arabia are v ri* 9 sacr$ tombs & spots ( holy gr\nd1 & pilgrimages are made to ^! bo? by ,moslems & by ,jews4 ,long /r+s ( mules1 lad5 ) c(f9s1 w5d _! way to su* sacr$ places z ,nejf1 & ?\s&s ( corpses are s5t ?i!r ev5 f ,india4#db ,old tomb/ones are held 9 peculi> v5]ation by ! m dev\t ,arabs4 ,! well-kn[n rev]5ce ) :i* ! ,syrian ,jews reg>d ! tombs ( _! ance/ors may be 9 "p expla9$ on ! gr\nd ( patriotic loyalty4 ,su* sc5es z ^? :i* may be witness$ at ! tomb ( ,ra*el1 rem9d u t a s5se ( ! pa?os ( human life & its mortality is also develop$ /rongly & ent]s z a v real factor into ! _s ( ,syria4#dc ,nor c !re be any d\bt t a c]ta9 moral or didactic use ( dea? is also *>act]i/ic ( ! ,ea/1 su* z is express$ 9 ! s5t5ti\s rhymes ( old gravey>ds 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! read] w recall ! fam\s in/ance ( ?is1 :i* ,sir ,walt] ,scott has made famili>--! %r\d :i* s]v$ = ! bann] ( ,salad91 ) its inscription1 8,salad9 mu/ die40#dd ,if1 h[ev]1 su* elem5ts h ent]$ into e>li] ?\ghts ( dea?1 x is to be fe>$ t ,pale/9e ( ! pres5t day has little ( !m left4 ,! great light ( ,*ri/ illum9at$ ! sepul*res ( ,*ri/ian ,syria2 b ) ! ,mohamm$an conque/ d>kness fell aga91 & all ! morbid fasc9ation ( ! grave reass]t$ itself4 ,!re is little rev]5ce = ! ord9>y man's place ( burial n[1 :e!r x be ( anci5t or ( rec5t date4 ,dr4 ,m]rill tells h[ he has f\nd ,arabs actually /eal+ graves1 i4e4 cle>+ out old ones to make room = a newly-deceas$ body1 on ! plea t 8! dead man :o 0 buri$ !re c\ld n possibly want 8 grave any long]40#de ,on _m a hillside ! rock tombs are r5t & split1 l pictures f ,dante's ,inf]no1 :]e !y h be5 bla/$ op5 ) gunp[d] 9 ! se>* = treasure2 & sometimes p>ties ( natives may be se5 pr[l+ ab\t a hillside on t bus9ess4 ,! f9d may consi/ ( glass bracelets1 :i* h to be tak5 f ! bone ( a baby's arm1 or gold e>r+s beside ! skull ^: face 0 once fair2 b !y excite no emotion except t ( money values4 ,laur5ce ,oliphant _h difficulty 9 re/ra9+ ! natives :o se>*$ ) him f sma%+ ! c9]>y urns !y f\nd1 on ,illu/ration3 ,,j]usalem--,,ext]ior ,,( ,,! ,,gold51 ,,or ,,beautiful1 ,,gate4 ,?is gate1 :i* 0 wall$ up by ! ,arabs aft] ! conque/ ( ,j]usalem1 =ms a t[] project+ f ! ,ea/]n ,wall ( ! ,temple ,area4 ,! tombs 9 ! =egr\nd are "p ( ! great ,mohamm$an ,cemet]y ext5d+ along ! ,ea/]n ,wall ( ,j]usalem4 ! plea t 8!y are s v old t !y are n wor? any?+40 ,) ! decay ( rev]5ce = ! dead1 h[ev]1 !re seems to h be5 a recrudesc5ce ( t morbid & *>nel-h\se int]e/ 9 dea? :i* m>ks ! _s ( ! l&4 ,at times "o is %ock$ by ! app>5tly total indiff]5ce display$--h\ses be+ built close to ! m\?s ( graves or ev51 x is said1 ^u ! ro(s ( !m4 ,yet any "o :o has se5 a fe/ival at a holy tomb1 :e!r ,jewi% or ,mohamm$an1 mu/ h realis$ ! /rong attraction by :i* dea? & ! grave draw m54 ,a curi\s in/ance ( ?is is t ( ! 8,jews' ,burn+0 at ,tib]ias4 ,tib]ias has be5 a ,jewi% c5tre s9ce ! "t ( ,vespasian4 ,be=e t "t1 ,jews avoid$ ! city1 because 9 build+ x ,h]od _h di/urb$ a burial-place4 ,to-day1 by a /range co9cid5ce1 x is a tomb t gives x its special popul>ity = ! ,jews--! grave ( ! fam\s ,rabbi ,meir4 ,conv5i5tly ne> ! tomb !re are l>ge ba?s1 ^: w>m & sulphur\s wat] is consid]$ highly m$ic9al4 ,at ?is tomb a curi\s spectacle may be se5 on ! second day ( ,may ea* ye>4 ,jewi% pilgrims f ne> & f> assemble1 br++ ) !m _! olde/ g>m5ts1 :i* are imm]s$ 9 a great cauldron ( oil1 & !n pil$ up & burn$4 ,! hon\r ( sett+ fire to ! pile is sold to ! highe/ bidd]1 & ! sum paid rea*es #ae or m4 ,! same fasc9ation ( dea?1 se5 z x 7 pa/ a byplay ( irrev]5ce & grotesqu5ess1 is felt 9 ! burial cu/oms z !y are se5 to-day4 ,at ! ,moslem fun]als we saw !re 0 no appe>ance ( m\rn+4 ,! m5 7 dress$ 9 gay col\rs1 & !y trott$ along beh9d ! corpse talk+ & ge/iculat+ ) an app>5t gu/o4 ,x may h be5 ! unusual appe>ance ( ! ?+ :i* impress$ /rang]s m p[]fully ?an natives2 b to u x seem$ t ! realism ( dea? 0 "h 9 m crude & aggressive consci\sness ?an 9 ,we/]n fun]als4 ,! corpse lay on a bo>d1 %\ld]-high1 ) a gorge\s crimson & purple pall cov]+ 8 body & limbs in/ead ( a c(f94 ,! head1 wrapp$ tight 9 a napk91 re/$ on a pill[1 & ! features ( ! face /ood prom95tly out aga9/ ! sky4 ,! man seem$1 9 an altoge!r gruesome way1 to be att5d+ 8 own fun]al1 & to be ?ru/+ ! fact ( 8 pres5ce on ! spectators4 ,?is may be subjective criticism1 & x is always unfair to judge ! burial-cu/oms ( o!r peoples )\t intimate k ( _! orig9 & inn] mean+4 ,9 "o respect1 h[ev]1 x is c]ta9 en\gh t ! ,%ad[ ( ,dea? re/s ^u ! l& ( ,syria4 ,t is ,fatalism4 ,we h all he>d ( ! fatalism ( ! ,ea/2 & /range /ones h become famili>1 ( soldi]s sell+ c>tridges to _! enemies1 ( villag]s refus+ to dra9 ! swamp t 0 decimat+ !m by its mal>ia1 or ev5 to desi/ f poison+ _! own spr+s ) f\l wat]4 8,x is ,allah60 ends all que/ion+ & *ecks all en]gy4 ,yet ! con/ant recurr5ce ( liv+ in/ances ( fatalism %ocks ! travell]1 h[ev] well he 0 prep>$ = !m4 ,a travell] ask$ a ,mohamm$an 9 ,damascus :at !y _h done to ! workman :o upset 8 brazi] & burn$ ! great mosque4 8,oh no?+10 said he1 8:at %\ld we d80 8,i %\ld h ?\ght y might h kill$ him40 8,no10 he repli$2 89 ! ,we/ y say :5 su* ?+s happ51 #8,x is ! devil'2 9 ! ,ea/ we say1 #8,x is ,god6'0 ,/ill m impressive 0 a conv]sation ) "o ( ! camp-s]vants dur+ a long ride ne> ,jezreel4 ,he _h told ! pa!tic /ory ( 8 life--h[ !y _h liv$ com=tably till ! fa!r di$1 leav+ no money2 !n came "w1 begun too e>ly & ) no provid5ce & little hope ( success1 until x _h come to be 8eat1 dr9k1 sleep1 !n aga91 eat1 dr9k1 sleep--!n die & sleep1 no m eat nor dr9k40 ,! ,syrian "* ( ! pres5t day has be5 well express$ on its negative side 9 ?ree traits4 ,^! are1 want ( conc5tration1 want ( w-p[]1 & an absolute want ( ! s5se ( s94 ,( s9 !y lit]ally d n und]/& ! mean+1 ! sub/itute = consci5ce be+ a dread ( ! op9ion ( fri5ds & ( ! public4 ,!y d n ?9k ab\t ! problem ( evil z 9 any s5se a practical problem4 8,! ,"l said unto ,ahriman1 ,i "k :y ,i h made !e1 b ?\ kn[e/ n0--t is _! philosophy ( ! moral my/]y ( ?+s4 ,cond] sums up ! situation 9 /rik+ words3 8,*ri/ian villages ?rive & gr[1 :ile ! ,moslem ones fall into decay2 & ?is diff]5ce1 ?\gh due p]haps 9 "p to ! =eign protection :i* ! native ,*ri/ians enjoy1 is yet unmi/akably connect$ ) ! li/lessness ( ^? :o believe t no ex]tions ( _! own c make !m ri*] or bett]1 t an iron de/9y decides all ?+s1 )\t ref]5ce to any p]sonal quality high] ?an t ( submission to fate1 & t ,god w help ^? :o h lo/ ! w to help !mselves40#df ,! _s ( ,syria is d>k5$ by a %ad[ ( dea? t has gr[n n only famili> b cong5ial1 z d>kness does to all :o *oose x r ?an ! light4 ,/range t ,syria %\ld ?us h 8made a cov5ant ) dea?10 %e f :om %one =? once ! ,light ( ! ,_w4 ,b t 0 long ago4 ,^! _m c5turies ?is has be5 "o ( t sad multitude ( nations & ( individuals :o h s5t =? a _s t has inspir$ & mov$ ! _w1 & :o yet !mselves sit desolate & li/less4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,! ,,spectral ,,! %ad[ ( dea? is always haunt$4 ,a /rong & pure fai? peoples x ) angels1 & is accompani$ ?r\gh its d>kness by t ,good ,%eph]d ^: rod & /aff com=t ! s\l4 ,:5 ! fai? is nei!r /rong nor pure1 & :5 ^? :o sit 9 d>kness h be5 disloyal to _! fai?1 x is haunt$ by spectres1 & its d>kness becomes poison\s4 ,! fasc9ation ( ! m>vell\s passes into 8:at ,fr5* writ]s call ! macabre--t species ( almo/ insane preoccupation ) our m\ld]+ fle%1 t luxury ( disgu/ 9 gaz+ on corruption40#dg ,?is unclean spectral elem5t is a v real "p ( ! _s ( ,syria4 ,! spell ( ! ,ea/ is prov]bial1 & x is a m lit]al fact ?an is sometimes realis$4 ,ev5 su* a commons5se ,engli%man z ! capta9 ( ! ,rob ,roy confesses to a nameless fe> t came ^u him 9 ! solitudes ( ! upp] ,jordan4#dh ,!re is a well-kn[n passage 9 ,eo!n1 :]e ,k+lake describes ! calculat+ m]*ant1 ! inquisitive travell]1 ! wakeful po/-capta9 all com+ "u ! spell ( ,asia4#di ,! w>m? & /rang5ess ( ! l& may h some?+ to d ) x2 b ! associations & ! preval5t tone ( ?\ght h m4 ,e "o feels x ^: imag9ation & he>t are 9 ! lea/ measure op5 to spiritual impressions4 ,to analyse x or to specify ! causes :i* h produc$ x 7 an impossible task4 ,?ree ?+s h to d ) x v specially4 ,!re is ! habit ( ! ,ea/]n m9d 9 deal+ ) matt]s ( fact4 ,tru? is n to ! ,ori5tal ! prim>y moral necessity :i* x is to ! ,we/4 ,vividness & =cefulness ( pres5tation c\nt = at lea/ z mu*4 ,! ,arab /ory-tell] is said to close 8 enum]ation ( v>i\s leg5ds ) ! sacram5tal =mula1 8,god kn[s be/ :]e ! tru? lies10--! tru? be+ a matt] ( ,god's responsibility1 :ile to man is committ$ only responsibility = be+ int]e/+4 ,aga91 9 ! ,ea/1 t]ror is a recognis$ =ce betwe5 man & man2 & ! great =ces ( nature & ! m occult =ces ( magic are recognis$ & tak5 z "p ( ! natural ord]4 ,religion also has _h h] %>e 9 ! 8,great ,asian ,my/]y40 ,?is l& is1 to mo/ dev\t p]sons1 altoge!r isolat$ & ap>t1 z ! place ( a div9e revelation su* z no o!r "p ( e>? has kn[n4 ,!re is a passage 9 ,pseudo-,ari/eas :]e1 describ+ 8 suppos$ embassy to ,j]usalem1 he gazes at ! con/ant wav+ ( ! veil 9 ! ,temple1 :i* scre5$ f 8 view ! holie/ ?+s ( ,israel4 ,z x rippl$ & swung 9 ! w9d x seem$ to tantalise ! gaz] ) ! nev]-fulfill$ promise ( a glimpse into ! secret place4#ej ,! wi/ful s5se ( my/]y 9 t lett] gives a h9t :i* is ( extraord9>y significance on ?is subject4 ,! geographical =mation ( ! l& & its /range col\r+ l5d !mselves to ! spectral & ! uncanny4 ,! ,dead ,sea pres5ts ! mo/ s9i/] l&scape 9 ! _w4 ,! op5+ p>agraphs ( ,scott's ,talisman1 f\nd$ ^u ! description ( ,josephus1 are c]ta9ly ov]drawn1 yet 9 tru? ev]y?+ conspires to produce a s5se ( gho/l9ess by ^! une>?ly %ores4 ,a r+ ( 8scald$ hills0 encircles !m1 & a p]petual haze lies ^u _! wat]s4 ,_! soil is nitr\s & _! spr+s sulphur\s4 ,blocks ( asphalt lie among _! %+le2 & fi%1 dead & salt$1 are ca/ up by ! waves4 ,!re is little life visible ab\t !m1 :e!r ( man or bea/ or bird4 ,"h & !re ! tempt+ ,apple ( ,sodom gr[s1 to appe>ance ! mo/ lusci\s ( fruits1 b s dry t its core is combu/ible & is us$ z t9d] by ! ,arabs4 ,a few feet above ! summ] level ( ! sea runs an unbrok5 l9e ( drift-wood wa%$ d[n by w9t] floods & left :ite & sp>kl+ ) cru/$ salt4 ,yet x 0 n ! ,dead ,sea t seem$ to u mo/ une>?ly1 b t m fam\s lake ( :i* "o ?9ks s diff]5tly4 ,x w\ld be a curi\s & in/ructive task to collect ! v>i\s impressions :i* ! ,sea ( ,galilee has made ^u travell]s4 ,romance & piety conspire to furni% _m ( its visitors ) a pr$isposition to f9d x surpass+ly beautiful2 & n a little c\ld be quot$ :i* owes mo/ ( its t\*es to ! imag9ation ( ! writ]4 ,a natural rebellion aga9/ ?is has l$ to no less exagg]at$ expressions ( disappo9tm5t1 & to accusations ( ugl9ess :i* are simply untrue4 ,! fact is t ord9>y canons ( description are ( no avail "h4 ,! ,sea ( ,galilee1 ev5 s f> z natural appe>ance goes1 mu/ be judg$ by itself4 ,j\rney+ to x f ,tabor1 y ride across a r *>act]less tract ( c\ntry4 ,a jackal1 a /ray ,circassian horseman1 a l[ black t5t ( ! ,b$aw91 are ! only signs ( life4 ,sudd5ly ! track1 sweep+ up ov] ! f>!r side ( a %all[ & rudely cultivat$ valley1 l&s y on an unexpect$ edge1 f :i* ! gr\nd falls %e] away be=e y into ! bas9 ( ! lake4 ,?is is n sc5]y2 x is t9t$ sculpture1 x is jewel-"w on a gigantic scale4 ,! rosy flu% ( sunset 0 on x :5 we caught ! fir/ glimpse4 ,at our feet lay a great fle%-col\r$ cup full ( blue liquor2 or r ! :ole seem$ "s lapid>y's qua9t fancy 9 p9k m>ble & blue-/one4 ,!re 0 no transluc5cy1 b an aggressive opaqu5ess1 9 sea & %ore alike4 ,! dry atmosph]e %[$ ev]y?+ 9 %>pe/ outl9e1 cle>-cut & brok5-edg$4 ,!re 0 no %ad+ or v>iety ( col\r1 b a /rong & uns(t5$ contra/4 ,to be ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,tomb ,,( ,,ra*el4 ,on ! road f ,j]usalem to ,hebron4 ,x is /at$ 9 ! #ce? *apt] ( ,g5esis t ,ra*el di$ & 0 buri$ 9 ! way to ,hebron 7,ephra?74 q accurate1 !re 0 "o break--a spla% ( :ite1 ) ! gre5 sugge/ion ( trees & grass1 ly+ on ! wat]'s edge directly b5ea? u--,tib]ias4 ,:51 next day1 we sail$ ^u ! lake1 coa/+ along ! we/]n %ore f nor? to s\?1 we f\nd ourselves aga9 z f> remov$ f any?+ we _h se5 or exp]i5c$ be=e4 ,a casual glance %[$ utt] & abject desolation1 & a sil5ce t might be he>d oppress$ ! _s4 ,z ! eye grew m accu/om$1 villages 7 disc]n$4 ,b :at villages6 ,) ! same exception ( ,tib]ias1 !y 7 br[n slabs ( flat-ro($ cubical hovels--let into ! slope ( ! %ore or ! foot-hills4 ,& z we skirt$ clos] along ! bea*1 we descri$ ev]y:]e traces ( ru9$ ar*itecture4 ,x appe>$ to =m a cont9u\s r+ ( t[]s2 columns brok5 & tumbl$1 b %[+ elaborately c>v$ capitals2 aqu$ucts & reta9+ walls2 fragm5ts ( all sorts1 & app>5tly ( widely diff]5t /yles ( ar*itecture4 ,foliage is scanty1 save = ! ?orn-trees & bamboo canes 9 :i* ! c>v$ /ones are (t5 half buri$4 ,"h & !re a plantation ( or*>d trees hides a trim little ,g]man g>d54 ,at ,tib]ias a few palm trees l5d _! graceful sugge/ion ( ! ,f> ,ea/4 ,all ?is impresses "o 9 a q unique way4 ,y try to recon/ruct ! pa/--rebuild ! ca/les & synagogues & palaces1 & imag9e ! life t s5t =? its fleets ^u ! lake 9 ! days ( ,jesus4 ,or y m d>+ly attempt ! future l&scape1 & imag9e ^! hillsides z sci5tific cultivation & ! )drawal ( oppressive gov]nm5t may yet make !m4 ,b f x all y are driv5 back ^u ! extraord9>y pres5t--petrifi$1 uncanny1 spectral--a "p ( ! e>? on :i* "s spell has fall51 & ov] :i* "s gho/ly influ5ce broods1 sil5c+ ! daylight1 & :isp]+ 9 ! d>kness4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ?is s5se ( ! gho/ly be int5s] "h ?an else:]e1 x is b an exagg]ation ( ! _s ( ! :ole l&4 ,nature 9 ,syria seems always to h some?+ ( ! sup]natural ab\t h]4 ,n only 9 ! petrifactions ( ! ,lejja & ! sil5t /one cities ea/ ( ,jordan is ?is ! case4 ,! :ole c\ntry (f]s y /ones :5 y ask = trees1 & t m]e fact ( its /on9ess is en\gh to l5d x ! air ( ano!r _w4 ,z an indirect consequ5ce trees1 :5 !y are f\nd1 assume a factiti\s importance1 & a sup]natural significance ei!r = good or evil4 ,"s ( ! faire/ plants ( ,syria are trea*]\s z !y are fair4 ,"o ( our company1 9 ga!r+ sprays ( a peculi>ly lovely creep]1 some:at resembl+ a :ite passion-fl[]1 _h 8 h& w\nd$ ) invisible b virul5t ne$les :i* caus$ x to swell & gave great pa94 ,! gre5 spots1 :]e grass & trees ab\nd1 tempt ! unw>y to dr9k & re/ 9 !m4 ,b !y are ! mo/ dang]\s places 9 ! l&1 & "s ( !m are deadly f mal>ia4 ,on ! o!r h&1 a tree 9 a treeless c\ntry is an object ( preci\sness inconceivable by any :o h n come ^u x f ! wild]ness4 ,9 ! di/ance x beckons ! travell] ) ! promise ( %ade & wat]4 ,arriv$ b5ea? its bran*es1 life takes on a new aspect2 k9dly voices are he>d 9 ! ru/le ( its leaves1 & graci\s gifts se5 9 its %ad[ & its fruit4 ,x is said t our fleur-de-lis patt]n1 (t5 suppos$ to repres5t ! fl[] ( ! lily or ! iris1 is really an ,ea/]n symbol4 ,! c5tral /em is ! sacr$ date-palm1 :ile ! side-l9es & ! horizontal b& /& = ox-horns ti$ to ! /em to av]t ! evil eye4 ,x is no wond] if by ! anci5t ,semites trees 7 reg>d$ z demoniac be+s1 or z gr[+ f ! body ( a buri$ god4#ea ,su* traditions are no long] to be f\nd 9 _! anci5t =ms1 b !y l+] 9 a vague s5se ( ! hol9ess ( conspicu\s trees1 :i* may be se5 cov]$ ) rags ( clo?+ hung on !m by natives4 ,a l play ( imag9ation has f "t immemorial haunt$ ! pools--especially ^? ^: d>k wat]s made !m seem bottomless--) holy or unholy my/]y4 ,/ill m t]rible is ! sup]/iti\s dread ) :i* ! natives reg>d undra9$ morasses4 ,! ,s]bonian ,bog on ! s\? coa/ has f ( old be5 reg>d$ ) special fe>1 ow+ to its trea*]\s appe>ance ( s\nd e>?4 ,! m>% 9 :i* ! ,abana loses itself %>es ) ! ,s]bonian ,bog its grim di/9ction1 *iefly on acc\nt ( its deep black wells1 :i* ! natives take to be man-dev\r+ :irlpools4 ,9 h] gr&] & m impressive features1 ,nature is 9 ,syria con/antly sugge/ive ( ! play ( occult p[]s4 ,e>?quake has left its m>k 9 _m a split ramp>t & brok5 t[]1 & t ( itself is en\gh to give a peculi>ly gho/ly t+e to ! _s ( any l&4 ,! unspeakable lonel9ess ( ! des]t has its own magic--a melan*oly spell :i* has no p>allel 9 o!r l&s4 ,9 ! des]t1 too1 ! sky conspires ) ! e>? 9 its bewit*m5t4 ,! mirage has p[] to arre/ & ov]awe ! _s ) some?+ ( ! same s5se ( helplessness z t felt 9 e>?quake4 ,9 ! "o case e>?1 9 ! o!r heav51 are turn+ ord9>y proc$ure upside d[n1 & ! bewild]$ mortal kn[s n :at is to come next ^u him4 ,! writ] has _h exp]i5ce ( bo?1 ?\gh ) an int]val ( sev]al ye>s betwe5 !m4 ,! mirage he saw to ! ea/ ( ! ,great ,haj ,road 9 ,hauran4 ,= "s "t ! rocky hills ( ! ,lejja _h be5 ! horizon1 %imm]+ dimly ?r\gh ! heat-haze4 ,sudd5ly1 on look+ up1 he 0 amaz$ to f9d t ! hills _h disappe>$1 & 9 _! place _h come a long /r+ ( camels on ! sky-l9e1 ) an isl&1 a lake1 & a grove ( palm-trees float+ 9 ! air above !m4 ,! sudd5 app>ition recall$ on ! in/ant a day 9 ! ,antipodes :5 he felt1 ?\gh at a great di/ance1 ! tremble ( ! ,new ,zeal& e>?quakes4 ,ei!r exp]i5ce is une>?ly en\gh to expla9 _m sup]/itions4 ,9 mo/ l&s ! sea w\ld h yield$ a l>g] crop ( une>?ly imag9ations ?an has be5 ! case 9 ,pale/9e4 ,= reasons :i* h be5 already /at$1 ,israel kept out ( t\* ) ! ocean4 ,yet1 all ! m on t acc\nt1 x is ! case t almo/ e ?\ght %e has ( ! sea is fe>some4 ,its imm5sity bewild]s h] ) ! unhomely di/ances ( ! _w1 & ! f\r w9ds /rive savagely ^u x4 ,! ro> & surge ( ! %ore are all %e ne$s to rememb] 9 ord] to impress h]self ) its t]ror4 ,n[ & !n %e ?9ks ( ! ,great ,deep1 & ( its horrible inhabitants--levia?an unwieldily sport+ !re1 & o!r nameless mon/]s br$ ( ! slime & ooze1 & ! dead m5 :o are wait+ to float up f _! places to ! ,great ,judgm5t1 :5 _! "t %all come4 ,m5tion ( ! ,great ,deep rem9ds u ( yet ano!r prolific s\rce ( ! spectral elem5t 9 ,syrian ?\ght4 ,x 0 b natural t ! s\nd ( und]gr\nd riv]s & _! explanation by ! !ory ( a _w f\nd$ on bottomless floods 7! 8wat]s und]nea? ! e>?071 %\ld h giv5 to ! :ole l& an air ( possession by gho/ly p[]s4 ,x may h be5 t same ph5om5on :i* drew d[n ! imag9ation ( ,syria to ! subt]ranean regions1 or x may also h be5 to "s ext5t ! h]$it>y gre$ ( buri$ treasure1 :i* e nation ^: build+s h be5 (t5 ov]turn$ is likely to acquire4 ,:atev] be its explanation1 ! fact is c]ta9 t ! und]gr\nd elem5t is "o :i* c\nts = mu* 9 ! _s ( ,syria4 ,alike 9 ,*ri/ian & 9 pre-,*ri/ian times !re seems to h be5 a mo/ un:olesome dread ( fre% air bl[+ ab\t holy ?+s4 ,sacr$ caves & pits 7 among ! mo/ *>act]i/ic prop]ties ( anci5t ,semitic religion4#eb ,z = ,*ri/ian tradition1 x seems positively to dread ! op5 air4 ,! ,nativity 9 ,be?lehem & ! ,agony 9 ,ge?semane h ea* _! cave assign$ to !m1 & _m ano!r site has a cave ei!r discov]$ or actually con/ruct$ = its commemoration4 ,nature & hi/ory h comb9$ to enc\rage ! und]gr\nd t5d5cy4 ,pale/9e is rem>kable = ! numb] & size ( its natural cav]ns1 & x is n sl[ to add its imag9ative t\* to ! l5g? ( !m1 connect+ di/ant t[ns ) suppos$ subt]ranean passages4 ,^! caves h be5 us$ z dwell+-places f v anci5t times4 ,! /range cities ( ,edom & ( ,ba%an are well kn[n to all z wond]s4 ,& n 9 ^! places only1 b 9 _m o!r p>ts ( ! l&1 m5 h dwelt b5ea? ! gr\nd4 ,9 times ( invasion1 = ! solitude ( h]mit life1 & 9 ! t]rors ( p]secution1 caves h (f]$ natural places ( refuge & ( hid+1 :i* h 9 _m cases be5 greatly enl>g$ by excavation4 ,besides ^? cav]ns ^: int]e/ lies 9 ! memory ( anci5t inhabitants1 !re are "s ( an int]e/ ^: t]ror is n yet dep>t$4 ,^! are ! cave-dwell+s ( lunatics1 :o 9 =m] times (t5 *ose ! dead = company & inhabit$ tombs4 ,n[1 9 "s places !y are *a9$ 9 black recesses ( m\nta9 cav]ns1 :]e _! life mu/ be horrible inde$4 ,!re are also "o or two caves 9 ,syria :i* end 9 sudd5 p]p5dicul> %afts ( great dep?1 :]e adult]esses are said to meet _! fate4 ,su* mod]n in/ances may h re9=c$ ! natural fasc9ation ( ! occult :i* subt]ranean places (f]4 ,b !re is some?+ cong5ial to x 9 ! _s ( ,syria q ap>t f ^!4 ,if ! natural features ( ,syria ?us tempt m5 t[>ds ! gha/ly side ( ?+s1 h] hi/ory sugge/s pl5ty ( mat]ial = sup]/ition to "w ^u4 ,if ! leg5d 7 true t no dew nor ra9 w\ld moi/5 ! spot :]e a man _h be5 murd]$1 ,syria w\ld be no long] an oasis1 b ! drie/ ( des]ts4 ,9 a spiritual s5se ! leg5d is tru] ?an x seems4 ,:51 9 8 ,laugh+ ,mill1 ,julian ,haw?orne works out ! idea ( a my/ic sympa?y 9 ,nature ) crimes t h be5 done by man1 he is rem9d+ u ( some?+ :i* e "o ( s5sitive _s has m or less cle>ly felt4 ,9 ,na?aniel ,haw?orne's subtl] tales ! same idea is work$ out 9 a fa%ion /ill m conv9c+4 ,!re are times & places :5 x is difficult to resi/ ! conviction t ! mat]ial _w1 9 its dumb1 unconsci\s way1 is yet burd5$ ) ! weight ( man's evil de$s4 ,9 ,syria "o c almo/ he> 8! groan+ & travail+ ( ! :ole creation40 ,x seems to be a l& wait+ ! h\r ( its release1 & mean:ile %r\d$ 9 deep] my/]y ?an any o!r l&4 ,some?+ has happ5$ "h1 y feel1 :i* nev] happ5$ else:]e2 some?+ is go+ to happ5 "h aga91 :5 ! "t %all come4 ,no?+ c\ld bett] atte/ ?is fact ?an ! extraord9>y weal? ( leg5d 9 ,syria4 ,fragm5ts ( ,bible /ory1 *ang$ & (t5 di/ort$ by ^? :o h retold !m1 are met ) e day4 ,sometimes a /ory has pass$ f ,jews to ,*ri/ians & f ,*ri/ians to ,mohamm$ans1 increas+ /eadily 9 m>vell\sness & decreas+ 9 v]isimilitude z x pass$4 ,samson1 ,golia?1 & ! prophet ,jonah are notable cases 9 po9t4 ,a ,mohamm$an weli m>ks ! spot :]e ! latt] 0 ?r[n a%ore2 b ! inv5tors ( ?is leg5d h be5 inconsid]ate4 ,! weli /&s at ! b5d ( a %all[ s&y bea*1 :]e ! :ale mu/ ei!r h itself come a%ore to deposit ! prophet1 or h project$ him a di/ance ( at lea/ a hundr$ y>ds4 ,a v curi\s in/ance ( a simil> k9d is t ( ! fall ( ,j]i*o z n>rat$ 9 ,jo%ua vi4 ,cond] gives two leg5ds1 bo? ( :i* are obvi\sly elaborat$ =ms ( t acc\nt4 ,"o ( ^! is a ,sam>itan /ory ( iron walls1 & ! o!r a ,mohamm$an "o ( a city ( brass ^: walls fell aft] ,aly1 ! son-9-law ( ,mohamm$1 _h ridd5 sev5 times r\nd !m4#ec ,/ill m curi\s is a leg5d relat$ by ! same au?or1 :i* looks l a ,mohamm$an v]sion ( ! ,w&]+ ,jew4 ,x tells h[1 at ,abila1 ,ca9 0 all[$ to lay d[n ! corpse ( 8 bro!r ,abel aft] c>ry+ x = a hundr$ ye>s4 ,! :ole /ory ( ! ,h]ods has infe/$ ! region ( _! crimes ) ! gho/s ( _! victims4 ,9 ,sam>ia ! murd]$ ,m>iamne /ill seems to dwell 9 h] honey1 & ,h]od & 8 s]vants to call h] by "n & =ce ! pret5ce t ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,valley ,,( ,,h9nom ,,) ,,! ,,hill ,,( ,,(f5ce ,! upp] portion ( ! picture to ! left is ! ,hill ( ,(f5ce1 ) ! village ( ,siloam on its l[] slopes4 %e is yet alive4 ,! l& is sick ) anci5t crimes ^: blood 8crie? f ! gr\nd40 ,! religions ( ! l& seem to be 9 league ) ! p[]s ( d>kness = ! propagation ( magic lore4 ,x is an extraord9>y fact t ,syria has s5t =? to ! ends ( ! e>? a religion t is ! ,et]nal ,^w ( ,god to mank9d1 & yet h]self has rev]t$ to ! religi\s conceptions ( anci5t ,semitic paganism4 ,"o ( ! mo/ fundam5tal ( ^! conceptions 0 t ( a religion ^: ess5tial elem5t is n belief b ritual4#ed ,:ile 9 ! ,we/ ! free play ( reason has te/$ & int]pret$ ,israel's fai?1 & discov]$ 9 x ! unique revelation ( ! liv+ ,god to man1 ! wor%ipp]s 9 ! ,holy ,l& itself seem to treat t same fai? :olly z a dep>tm5t ( magic lore4 ,c]ta9 rites h to be p]=m$1 no matt] h[ un9tellig5tly1 & t is all4 ,all cre$s alike %>e ! blame ( ?is4 ,druse & ,sam>itan1 ,jew1 ,*ri/ian1 & ,mohamm$an vie ) "o ano!r to-day 9 ! poor ambition ( mak+ ! religion ( ,jehovah contemptible 9 ! eyes ( ?9k+ m5 :o inve/igate x z x is practis$ on its native soil4 ,mu* ( ! magic ( ! ,ea/ is decad5t or decay$ religion4 ,on r>e occasions a m>riage sup]/ition may be met )1 su* z ! =etell+ ( m>riage de/9ies by ty+ gre5 twigs ) "o h&1#ee :i* appe>s to be ! creation ( pure romance4 ,b ! great majority ( ^? sup]/itions :i* hold ! ,ea/]n m9d 9 bondage are evid5tly relics ( pagan ?\ght incorporat$ n[ 9 ,jewi%1 ,*ri/ian1 or ,moslem cre$s1 & absorb+ all ! int]e/ ( ^? :o believe 9 !m4 ,if a ,mohamm$an sa9t's bones flew ?r\gh ! air f ,damascus to ,m\nt ,ebal1 ! ,*ri/ians c mat* ! miracle & m1 = 0 n ! v h\se ( ! ,virg9 c>ri$ (f by angels f ,naz>e? to ,loreto le/ ! ,moslems %\ld desecrate x8 ,magic dom9ates ! m9d ( ! ,ea/ & expla9s ev]y?+ !re to ?is day4 ,e inscrib$ /one runs ! *ance ei!r ( be+ hon\r$ by a place 9 ! wall ( a dwell+ or ( be+ heat$ ) fire & split ) wat]1 accord+ to ! sort ( magic x is suppos$ to repres5t4 ,x is difficult to realise t ! m5 y conv]se ) are actually liv+ 9 ! _w ( ,tasso's ,g]usalemme ,lib]ata1 :]e a deal] 9 black art1 by 8 incantation1 unb9ds ! demons ( ! deep to d ,de$s )\t "n1 or *a9s !m 9 8 cell1 ,& makes e'en ,pluto pale ^u ! ?rone ( hell4 ,yet su* is und\bt$ly ! case4 ,ev5 ! saddle-bags y buy at ,j]usalem--^? gorge\s labyr9?s ( %ells & tassels--h a blue bead conceal$ some:]e 9 !m to return ! />e ( any evil eye t may look ^u y\r horse4 ,to av]t ! same dang] y w see little boys dress$ 9 girls' clo!s1 & specially pretty *ildr5 kept dirty & untidy4 ,le/ ! dread$ eye %\ld blight ! =tunes ( a newborn babe ! ,jewi% ,rabbis sometimes hang up ! #aba/ ,psalm on ! wall ov] "m & *ild4 ,magic is z useful a sub/itute = sci5ce z x is = religion4 ,x expla9s any ph5om5on & cle>s up any my/]y )\t ! tr\ble ( inve/igation4 ,all great build+s mu/ h be5 built by en*antm5t1 s :at is ! use ( speculat+ z to _! ar*itecture8 ,we/]n civilisation is1 no d\bt1 a rem>kable affair1 b x nev] occurs to an unsophi/icat$ ,syrian t x is a matt] = en]getic emulation4 ,! ,frank has only be5 lucky en\gh to le>n ! prop] spell4 ,x is easy to see h[ ,syria1 ) su* views z ^!1 is doom$ at once to moral & intellectual /agnation4 ,! vivid m9d ( ! ,ea/ is f]tile 9 poetic imag9ation4 ,re/less & quick itself1 x _c conceive ! ,univ]se o!rwise ?an z liv+ ar\nd x4 ,ev]y?+ is alive & aw>e4 ,all inanimate ?+s are p]sonifi$2 or1 to speak m accurately1 !y are inhabit$ by spiritual be+s4 ,natural ph5om5a express ! purposes ( m9ds hidd5 beh9d !m4 ,e dang]\s or adv]se exp]i5ce is reg>d$ z ! "w ( malice4 ,human life is beset ) ambu%$ spiritual enemies4 ,! advantage :i* _! invisibility gives to ^! ov] ! human combatants w\ld be en\gh to put fight+ out ( ! "q1 7 x n t s _m ( ! spirits are ( feeble intellig5ce & may be hoodw9k$2 :ile all ( !m h o!r spirits = _! enemies :o may be enli/$ on man's side aga9/ !m4 ,^! spirits are ( _m k9ds1 b !y may be class$ 9 two gr\ps1 accord+ to _! connection ) natural ph5om5a or ) dea?4 ,*ief ( ! =m] gr\p are ! angels1 good & bad2 & ! j9n1 or g5ii1 :om ,islam took ov] f ! anci5t paganism ( ,arabia4 ,! angels are ,god's att5dants1 & h "s functions entirely indep5d5t ( natural ph5om5a4 ,?us ! two /ones :i* m>k a ,moslem's grave %[ ! /ations ( ! angels :o are to exam9e him2 & ! tuft ( hair on 8 %av5 head is 7l ! ,jewi% sidelocks7 to enable ! ,angel ,gabriel to be> ! man to heav54 ,yet ! angels are 9 _m in/ances p]sonifi$ p>ts ( nature1 gu>dians ( ! l&1 spirits ( w9d or fire or wat]1 :o are obvi\sly ! desc5dants & ! heirs ( ! anci5t local gods4#ef ,?us ! wick$ angels are suppos$ to h desc5d$ on ,m\nt ,h]mon1 & to h sworn _! oa?s !re--a belief :i* adds consid]ably to ! importance ( ! great m\nta9 9 ,syrian e/imation4 ,! j9n are ! demons ( ! des]t1 lordly & t]rible to all :o h n ! *>m :i* ma/]s !m1 ob$i5t z little *ildr5 to ^? :o h x4 ,!y are ! inhabitants ( ^? :irl+ s&/orms :i* sweep across ! wa/e4 ,"s sup]/itions ( ?is k9d may be connect$ ) ! =m] dang]s f wild bea/s1 :i* us$ to haunt ! jungles ( l[] ,jordan & sw>m up to ! inl& t]ritories aft] an invasion _h depopulat$ !m4 ,ev5 n[ !re may be se5 9 ,pale/9e an occasional wolf or leop>d1 to say no?+ ( ! jackals :i* e travell] is sure to see4 ,"s ( ! fauna ( ,pale/9e are 9 !mselves s /range z to sugge/ une>?ly aff9ities4 ,! j]boa1 = in/ance1 ! jump+ m\se ( ! des]t1 m]its ,br[n+'s description ( him1 :5 9 ,saul he says1 8!re are none su* z he = a wond]1 half bird & half m\se40 ,! liz>ds1 too1 seem any?+ b ord9>y respectable law-abid+ animals z !y tw9kle to & fro among ! ru9s ( old build+s4 ,x is said t ,mohamm$ refus$ to eat liz>ds1 consid]+ t !y 7 ! metamorphos$ spirits ( ,israelites4 ,! spirits t haunt sepul*res are ei!r gho/s ( ! dead or gh\ls t prey ^u _! fle%4 ,x is ?is class ( app>ition :i* appe>s to h ! /ronge/ fasc9ation = ! ,syrian m9d2 & its gravey>d lore is ! natural sequel to ! morbid int]e/ 9 dea? :i* =m$ ! subject ( our prec$+ *apt]4 ,cond]1 ^: book gives mu* int]e/+ in=mation on ?is :ole subject1 f\nd x difficult to keep any ,arabs ab\t him at ,fusil1 a few miles nor? ( ,j]i*o1 because ( _! fe> ( a gh\l 9 ! ru9s1 :o might *ance to desire a *ange ( food 7 he to see !m !re4 ,! dead appe> to h und]gone a *ange = ! worse 9 dy+4 ,! utmo/ caution & polit5ess are requir$ to prev5t _! gho/s f do+ h>m to ! visitors at _! tombs1 ev5 9 ! case ( m5 :o1 :ile 9 ! body1 7 hospitable & fri5dly p]sons4 ,"s localities are reg>d$ z peculi>ly dang]\s1 among :i* is ! reput$ site ( ! /on+ ( ,/eph5 & 7accord+ to ,gordon7 ( ,calv>y1 ne> ,j]usalem4 ,an ,arab writ] ( ! ,middle ,ages advises ! travell] n to pass t haunt$ spot at night4#eg ,if1 "u ord9>y conditions1 life 9 ,syria is ov]%ad[$ & haunt$1 ! dread becomes f> great] :5 disease has come4 ,! explanation ( disease is ! same easy "o z t :i* has dead5$ sci5ce & di/ort$ religion--magic aga94 ,ev5 :5 ! true cause ( illness has be5 guess$1 x has to be expla9$ 9 gho/ly language4 ,:5 plague has brok5 out 9 a locality ! ,jewi% ,rabbis make ! neighb\rs ( ! /rick5 h\se empty all j>s & vessels1 say+ t 8! angel ( dea? wipes 8 sword 9 liquids40 ,! mal>ia ( swamps is set d[n to ! same cause1 & x is probable t _m ( t mix$ multitude :o are to be se5 sitt+ *9 deep 9 ! hot sulphur-spr+s ( ,gad>a or ,tib]ias reg>d _! cure z due to "s local _s :o happ5s to be b5evol5tly incl9$4 ,9 ! neighb\rhood ( ! tomb ( a ,mohamm$an sa9t1 e accid5t or ailm5t is reg>d$ z ! "w ( ! dead man4 ,inde$ ! ma9 idea ( ,syrian m$ical sci5ce is t all or mo/ sickness is possession by demons1 & a common cure is to bore or burn holes 9 ! pati5t's fle%1 by :i* ! evil _s may escape4 ,! treatm5t ( lunacy is p]haps ! sadde/ case 9 po9t4 ,until ,mr4 ,waldmey] built 8 asylum at ,beyr\t1 !re 0 b "o mode ( treatm5t4 ,at c]ta9 mona/]ies !re are caves 9 :i* ! insane are *a9$ bel[ huge /ones1 ) h>dly space = movem5t1 & are kept !re = days 9 hung] & fil?1 9 ord] to drive out ! devil4 ,! te/ = devil-possession is some:at crude4 ,! pati5t is %ewn a cross4 ,if he turns f x & refuses to look he is possess$2 if he %ews no av]sion to x he is only unwell & is all[$ to g4 ,9 ! ,beyr\t asylum we 7 told t no case ( lunacy _h be5 discov]$ :i* 9 any way diff]$ f ! ,european types ( ! same disease4 ,! record ( cures !re1 "u ! same treatm5t z t :i* is practis$ 9 ! ,we/1 is a mo/ enc\rag+ & hopeful "o4 ,x is true t ! bright _s ( ! ,ea/ ) its rapid *anges & its unqu5*able sp>kle ( gaiety1 has mitigat$ ! horror & oppressiv5ess ( ! spectral !re4 ,!re are times :5 "o w\ld almo/ fancy t ! :ole ( _! sup]/ition 0 a pret5ce :i* 0 nev] meant to be tak5 s]i\sly4 ,9 ,damascus1 & probably else:]e1 y may buy little rag-dolls suppos$ to resemble camels4 ,!y are made ( bones1 cov]$ ) pat*es ( _m-col\r$ clo?1 & trick$ out ) t9sel & /r+s ( beads4 ,we b\ght two ( ^! f a "y girl 9 8! /reet call$ ,/raight0 = half a franc1 & bore !m ?r\gh ! city ) a cr[d ( idl]s foll[+ u4 ,we le>n$ aft]w>ds t ^! 7 cunn+ devices to *eat ! gho/s4 ,:5 y are v sick or 9 dang] y v[ a camel to y\r sa9t or fri5dly _s--?is is h[ y pay y\r v[4 ,pok+ fun at ,hades 9 ?is fa%ion might seem a dang]\s game1 & "o h>dly to be recomm5d$ :ile any l+]+ belief 9 ! reality ( gho/s rema9$4 ,yet su* is ,syrian "*4 ,?is sort ( ?+ p]si/s along ) a deep horror ( ! o!r _w4 ,! words ( ,job are n 9 ! lea/ out ( date 9 ,pale/9e to-day3 8,fe> came ^u me1 & trembl+1 :i* made all my bones to %ake4 ,!n a _s pass$ be=e my face2 ! hair ( my fle% /ood up4 ,x /ood /ill1 b ,i c\ld n disc]n ! =m !re(2 an image 0 be=e m9e eyes3 !re 0 sil5ce1 & ,i he>d a voice40#eh ,! horror is all ! deep] because x appe>s to be seldom br\ght to cle> /atem5t4 ,! spectral _w is undef9$1 & x has1 !re=e1 all ! add$ p[] ( ! unkn[n1 ^: play ^u ! imag9ation is s mu* m /rong & subtle ?an t ( any cle> conception1 h[ev] gha/ly4 ,9 ?is *apt] no attempt has be5 made to di/+ui% betwe5 ! sup]/itions ( ,jews1 ,*ri/ians1 & ,mohamm$ans 9 ,pale/9e4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 !re is little to *oose betwe5 !m1 & !y h mu* 9 common4 ,x is true t e nation has "s outlook or o!r ^u ! _w ( spirits4 ,b ea* has its own way ( reg>d+ ! app>itions2 & ! k9d ( spectre :i* a l& believes 9 is no bad indication ( ! tone ( ! l&'s ?\ght & "*4 ,ab\t ! fairy-lore ( ,teutonic nations !re is a *ild-l simplicity & purity :i* make ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,valley ,,( ,,h9nom1 ,,) ,,! ,,hill ,,( ,,(f5ce4 ,! upp] portion ( ! picture to ! left is ! ,hill ( ,(f5ce1 ) ! village ( ,siloam on its l[] slopes4 t lore :olly refre%+ & preci\s4 ,! nymphs & ,pan1 ^: anci5t monum5ts we h se5 9 anci5t ,pale/9e1 7 graceful4 ,b ! spectral elem5t 9 mod]n ,pale/9e appe>s to be almo/ :olly morbid & unclean1--! fur!r decad5ce ( a l& t has made its cov5ant ) dea?4 ,! life a ,syrian peasant leads to-day is haunt$ by gho/ly t]rors2 x is a life l$ by leave ( ! dead1 or by a sy/ematic cunn+ :i* plays (f "o malign _s aga9/ ano!r1 or succe$s 9 w9n+ a po9t or two aga9/ ! grave = ! play]4 ,x is a view ( life ?an :i* surely none c be at once m impud5t & m melan*oly4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,! ,,l& ,,( ,,! ,,cross ,x is a sad view ( ! _s ( ,syria :i* ! la/ *apt]s h (f]$1 yet x is b too true4 ,we mu/ l+] yet a little long] li/5+ to 8! sob ( ! l&0 be=e we turn to t :i* is at once ! explanation & ! hope ( relief = its long sorr[4 ,ap>t altoge!r f ! gho/ly elem5ts 9 ?is l& ( ru9s1 ! m]e melan*oly is p]si/5t & depress+ z "o moves f place to place4 ,! gloom is s om9\s1 z to be at times sugge/ive ( a sup]natural curse t broods ^u ev]y?+ ) its depress+ weight4 ,! khans outside ( villages are 9 ru9s2 s are ! bridges ov] /reams1 & ! ca/les on ! hills4 ,amid su* sc5]y x is natural to rememb] ! defeats r ?an ! glories ( ! pa/1 & ! national hi/ory seems to be "o long record ( mis=tune4 ,9 ! mod]n conditions ( life 9 ,pale/9e ! long /ory ( te>s & blood seems to be cont9u$ 9 ! hagg>d desolation ( its pres5t4 ,two ?+s especially mu/ s5d ?is impression home ev5 to ! mo/ casual obs]v]1 viz4 ! he>tlessness ( toil & ! preval5ce ( disease4 ,9 e c\ntry mu* mu/ always dep5d on ! _s 9 :i* m5 lab\r4 ,:]e ! walls ( its cities rise to music1 z ! old glad leg5ds told ( ,troy & ,!bes1 !re is hope & promise2 b "h !re is no song to help m5's toil4 ,x is h>d & joyless1 ) little promise & less hope4 ,) ! dea? ( ^! self-respect also dies2 & "w1 )\t inc5tives to any?+ :i* might tempt ambition1 rema9s m]ely z a h>d necessity & a curse4 ,next to its he>tless toil ! uncur$ sickness ( ! l& contributes to ! deep sadness ( its _s4 ,disease seems to />e y ev]y:]e 9 ! face4 ,sup]/ition & fatalism comb9$ h block$ all progress 9 m$ical sci5ce4 ,! p are naturally heal?y2 & _! /rong con/itutions1 kept firm by pla9 liv+1 yield to m$ical treatm5t 9 a m>vell\s way4 ,b :5 any s]i\s accid5t has happ5$1 or any dang]\s disease infect$ !m1 !y are utt]ly helpless1 & ?+s take _! c\rse4 ,! m$ic9al spr+s =m an exception to ?is rule1 & seem to be ! "o real heal+ ag5cy 9 ! c\ntry4 ,_! blui% wat]s bubble ) sulphurett$ hydrog51 & smell abom9ably1 b !y cure sicknesses ( "s k9ds4 ,= o!r diseases !re is no native cure4 ,^? :i* are mo/ 9 evid5ce are ulc]s & inflammatory diseases ( ! eyes4 ,! natives appe> to be immune s f> z mal>ia is conc]n$2 b a peculi> k9d ( decl9e is n uncommon1 9 :i* ! emaciation is s great z to r$uce ! pati5t to ! appe>ance ( a skeleton1 ) great lu/r\s eyes4 ,x ne$ h>dly be said t ! *>act]i/ic disease ( ,syria is leprosy4 ,! fir/ object :i* attracts ! eye aft] y arrive at ! railway /ation ( ,j]usalem is an imm5se lep] hospital4 ,9 a case :i* creat$ "s s5sation lately 9 ! s\? ( ,engl&1 x turn$ out t a fraudul5t ,syrian _h be5 rais+ money = a non-exi/5t hospital at ,tirzah1 :i* 0 to accommodate elev5 ?\s& lep]s4 ,( c\rse ! figure 0 a mon/r\s "o1 b ! fact t x 0 inv5t$ %ews h[ t]rible a sc\rge ?is is4 ,x is a curi\s circum/ance t ! inhabitants ( t[ns d n contract leprosy4 ,x appe>s 9 villages1 & ! suff]]s are at once driv5 out1 to w&] to ! l>g] t[ns1 outside ( :i* !y settle 9 communities or beg by ! wayside4 ,! view ( ! nor?-ea/ end ( ,j]usalem f ! ,m\nt ( ,olives %ews a roadside :i* is always dott$ ) ^! pitiable folk4 ,= _m travell]s ?is is ! road ( _! fir/ j\rney f ! city1 lead+ ov] ,olivet to ,be?any1 & !y are n likely to =get t ride4 ,lep]s1 9 all /ages ( hide\s decay1 l9e ! roadside2 real or %am p>alytics sprawl & %ake 9 ! middle ( ! pa?1 s t ! horses h actually to pick _! way among ! bodies ( !m4 ,! epileptics appe> to be frauds4 ,_! faces are cov]$1 b !y see :at is go+ on well en\gh to /op %ak+ :5 ! horses h pass$4 ,! leprosy is all too real4 ,arms cov]$ ) putrid sores1 h&s f :i* ! f+]s h "o aft] ano!r fall5 (f1 & husky voices begg+ f ?roats already half eat5 out--^! _c be imitat$4 ,z to ! causes ( ,syrian disease1 & leprosy 9 p>ticul>1 !re seems to be mu* obscurity4 ,p]haps ! ^w t comes ne>e/ to an explanation is uncleanness1 & ! promise ( 8a f\nta9 op5$ = s9 & = uncleanness0 may h a physical z well z a spiritual significance4 ,! l& is incr$ibly contam9at$ ) fil?1 z ! foll[+ quotation %ews3 8,sir ,*>les ,w>r5 tells u t ! soil 9 :i* he made "s ( 8 excavations 0 s saturat$ ) disease g]ms t 8 workm5 7 (t5 attack$ ) fev]1 especially if !y _h any sore or scrat* on _! h&s40#ei ,x w\ld be h>d to f9d words m significant ?an ^!4 ,= ?is /ate ( matt]s1 & = its cont9uance f g5]ation to g5]ation1 _m reasons may be giv54 ,! usual explanation ( ! :ole is ! gov]nm5t1 ) its soldi]s & its taxation4 ,! wild notes ( ,turki% bugle-calls answ]+ ea* o!r across ,j]usalem s\nd h>%1 & z x 7 blasphem\s1 & fur!r travel deep5s ! res5tm5t r ?an removes x4 ,:51 beh9d all ! pres5t evils1 "o rememb]s ! pa/1 ) its massacres & all its o!r iniquities1 "o's he>t gr[s hot4 ,"o ,syrian1 aft] n>rat+ a specially aggravat$ case ( oppression1 ask$ u if we knew 8! /ory ( ! prophets ,ananias & ,sapphira40 ,we said we _h he>d x2 & he add$1 8,ah1 9 ^? days ,god puni%$ at once2 n[1 ,god waits60 ,dr4 ,?omson some:]e quotes a prov]b to ! effect t1 8,:]ev] ! ho( ( a ,turki% horse re/s x leaves b>r5ness beh9d x02 & all t is se5 9 ,syria t5ds to prove t say+ b too true4 ,e possible exp]im5t 9 misgov]nm5t seems to h be5 made "h4 ,frequ5t *ange ( gov]nors1 und]paym5t ( (ficials1 conscription ( ! mo/ ru9\s sort1 brib]y1 cruelty1 fanaticism1 laz9ess1 s5suality1 & /upidity--all are to be se5 op5 & )\t pret5ce at concealm5t4 ,yet 9 ! int]e/ ( tru? x ought to be rememb]$ t !re is ano!r side to ! /ory4 ,! incid5t ( ! horse at ,banias#fj made "o und]/& h[ a ,turk might answ] 8 critics1 ) "s %[ ( reason1 t ?is 0 ! only sort ( gov]nm5t ^! p c\ld und]/&4 ,( c\rse x might be aga9 repli$ t x 0 oppression t _h br\ght ?is ab\t4 ,yet x is p]fectly cle> t ,syrian "* is v f> f t ( m>tyr$ innoc5ce4 ,f :atev] causes x has come ab\t1 ! fact is c]ta9 t 9 _m respects ! moral s5se ( ,pale/9e is z deprav$ z t ( h] oppressors4 ,h] wor/ enemy is h] own wick$ness4 ,?us _m elem5ts ent] into ! desolation ( ! ,holy ,l&1 & make x a place ( decay+ body & ( %iftless _s1 b ( all ^! elem5ts ! e?ical is supreme4 ,! v look ( ! c\ntry sugge/s ?is4 ,x is n m]ely /ony2 z has be5 clev]ly said1 x seems to h be5 /on$--/on$ to dea? = its s9s4 ,! loose b\ld]s ( ,judea1 & ! scatt]$ ru9s ( old v9ey>d t]races & village walls1 pres5t all ! appe>ance ( flung missiles4 ,?is view ( ! case is ackn[l$g$ freely by ! inhabitants !mselves1 9 ^: ?\ghts judgm5t has a prom95t place4 ,! buri$ cities ( ,sodom & ,gomorrah are fav\rite subjects ( reflection ) disciples ( all ! cre$s4 ,a some:at simil> /ory is told ( ! ,lake ( ,phiala1 a volcanic m\nta9 lake s\? ( ,h]mon4 ,tradition tells ( a village subm]g$ bel[ its wat]s 8to puni% ! inhabitants = _! inhospitable treatm5t ( travell]s10 & !re are _m o!r /ories ( judgm5t 9 ! c\ntry4 ,yet ! judgm5t always falls ^u "s "o else ?an ! n>rator ( ! /ory1 :o w\ld n insult y\r intellig5ce by suppos+ t y ?\ght him 9 ne$ ( judgm5t4 ,ev5 9 ! famili> quotations f ! litany *ant$ by ! ,jews at _! ,wail+-,place1 ! confession ( s9 is conspicu\s by its abs5ce4 ,!re is sore m\rn+ ov] ! dep>t$ glories ( ! l&1 b ! only s9s confess$ are ^? ( prie/s & k+s long dead4 ,to all cre$s alike ! ess5tial elem5t 9 religion seems to be ritual p]=mance1 & ! ideal life is accord+ly n "o ( e?ical "* b ( =mal correctness4 ,& yet 9 ! mid/ ( all ?is self-righte\s complac5cy1 any "o c see t e "p ( ! l& is be+ judg$ & is be>+ ! puni%m5t ( s94 ,j]i*o1 squatt+ sordidly amid ! ru9s ( its anci5t ,hell5ism1 look$ d[n ^u by ! sev]e & b>r5 m\nta9 :]e ,jesus hung]$1 is a monum5t ( ! reality ( e?ical di/9ctions z h>d & practical facts4 ,!y may be ignor$1 b !y mu/ be reckon$ ) 9 ! end4 ,( ! e?ical significance ( ! fate ( ,pale/9e !re _c be a mom5t's d\bt4 ,x is "h t ! love & c>e ( ,god h be5 met & foil$ by ! s9 & c>elessness ( man4 ,9 reg>d to its :ole moral & social life1 !re is "o ov]ma/]+ conviction :i* gr[s ^u ! travell] f day to day4 ,t conviction is1 t x is a l& :i* requires & dem&s righte\sness4 ,nature & man are 9 close t\*1 & ea* dep5ds ^u ! o!r4 ,x is n a des]t1 :]e no am\nt ( lab\r c produce result2 nor is x a luxuriant tropical c\ntry ^: fruits fall ripe & untoil$ = into man's h&4 ,x dem&s lab\r1 b x answ]s to x4 ,! lea/ ef=t ( man to be a man & d 8 human "w meets ) imm$iate & g5]\s response4 ,neglect$ pla9s & valleys1 once ri*1 are n[ a wild]ness2 ! mo/ unpromis+ hillsides1 :]e t]rac+ & irrigation ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,rock-,,cut ,,tombs ,,( ,,! ,,valley ,,( ,,jeho%aphat4 ,^! tombs are opn ! ea/]n side ( ! alley fac+ ! ,ea/ ,wall ( ! ,temple ,area4 h kept ! human side ( ! compact1 are f]tile4 ,! lab\r w\ld inde$ require to be h>d & unremitt+4 ,_m ( ! /reams are s deep sunk 9 _! *annels t extraord9>y ent]prise w\ld be ne$$ to raise _! wat]s = irrigation or to conduct !m f high] levels 9 long conduits4 ,yet e rema9+ ar* ( an old aqu$uct1 & e wat]mill ^: :eel ?uds r\nd 9 its heavy way1 %ew t su* ent]prise is possible4 ,ea* ( ^? groov$ & *eck]$ valleys :]e m5 ) _! nak$ feet op5 & close ! little gates ( clay1 & wat] ! fat crops ( onion & tomato1 %ews h[ sure is ! rew>d ( ent]prise4 ,simil>ly ! t]rac+ rem9ds u t soil is z preci\s z wat]4 ,bo? mu/ be lab\r$ = & f\ght =4 ,x is ! des]t t naturally claims ! l& & sets ! normal po9t ( view = its inhabitants4 ,syria is an oasis by ! grace ( ,god & ! toil ( man4 ,?is alone w\ld suffice to make ,pale/9e an ideal tra9+-gr\nd = a nation to le>n righte\sness4 ,! :ole !ory ( ,provid5ce :i* dom9ates ! e>li] ,old ,te/am5t1 & l+]s on 9 popul> belief ?r\gh ! ,new1 is app>5t on e mile ( ^! valleys4 ,t !ory 0 t ev5 9 ! pres5t life ! s9 ( man w be imm$iately puni%$ by adv]sity1 & 8 righte\sness rew>d$ by prosp]ity4 ,x 0 a !ory :i* _h to be ab&on$1 & ! :ole m>vell\s /ory ( ,job %ews u ! process ( ! nation's disc>d+ x4 ,to u x seems wond]ful t x %\ld h be5 able to survive at all 9 face ( ! inexplicable & at times app>5tly irrational facts ( all human exp]i5ce4 ,b ! fact t 9 ,syria nature's rew>ds & puni%m5ts are s c]ta9 & s imm$iate goes f> to expla9 bo? its orig9 & its p]si/5ce4 ,su* ?\ghts z ^! reg>d+ ,syria inevitably lead t[>ds "o goal4 ,!re is b "o symbol 9 ! _w :i* expresses all t dep? ( pa9 :i* we h f\nd 9 ! hi/ory ( ?is sorely-tri$ l&1 & at ! same "t =ces on ev5 ! mo/ ?\ghtless its moral significance4 ,t symbol is ! ,cross ( ,*ri/4 ,x is /ill to be se5 v frequ5tly 9 ,syria1 g5]ally 9 its ,greek =m 7,illu/ration3 cross74 ,9 ?is =m x is m impressive ?an 9 ! o!r4 ,! oblique l[] b> repres5ts a bo>d nail$ across ! %aft = ! feet ( ! suff]] to re/ on4 ,! reali/ic effect ( ?is is surpris+1 = x br+s home to "o's imag9ation 9 a q new way ! t]rible fact t m5 h actually be5 crucifi$4 ,! lat] hi/ory & leg5d ( ! cross 9 ,pale/9e is "o ( s+ul> & tragic int]e/4 ,fir/ ( all !re is ! prepo/]\s /ory ( ,/4 ,hel5a's dream--! miracul\s discov]y ( ! ?ree crosses1 & ! miracle ( heal+ :i* enabl$ h] to di/+ui% ! cross ( ,*ri/ f ^? ( ! robb]s4 ,s9ce !n ! sacr$ wood has be5 toss$ ab\t f h& to h&1 hunt$ =1 b>ga9$ = s9n$ =1 di$ =4 ,its pres5ce 9 _! army com=t$ ! ,crusad]s 9 _! mis]y2 ! sight ( x 9 ! h&s ( ! ,s>ac5s fill$ !m ) despair4 ,! re/oration ( x 0 among ! *ief dem&s conc$$ by ,salad9 :5 he surr5d]$ ,acre to ,ri*>d2 & :5 he fail$ to deliv] x1 ho/ages to ! numb] ( #bgjj 7 slaught]$ 9 sight ( ! ,s>ac5 camp4 ,all ?r\gh ! ,crusades x 0 ! badge ( self-devotion to ! holy w>s1 & a /range tale is told ( an occasion on :i* ,l\is ,,ix41 pres5t+ robes to 8 c\rti]s accord+ to an anci5t cu/om1 _h crosses secretly embroid]$ on !m1 s t ! we>]s f\nd !mselves committ$ unaw>es to ! ,crusade4 ,= #aejj ye>s t symbol po9t$ to ! site :i* ! build+s ( ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re cov]4 ,godfrey 0 buri$ !re1 & _m a dev\t s\l reg>d$ x z ! holie/ ( holy places4 ,9 ! middle ( ! n9ete5? c5tury ! "q ( its au!nticity 0 rais$2 & ,g5]al ,gordon1 :o sp5t "p ( ! la/ ye> be=e he w5t to ,kh>t\m1 9 ,j]usalem1 *ampion$ ! id5tification ( ! hill ( ,j]emiah's ,grotto1 j outside ! ,damascus ,gate1 ) ,calv>y4 ,8 po9t ( view 0 a /range "o4 ,x 0 sugge/$ by ! words 8place ( a skull10 f :i* he develop$ ! idea ( ! ,holy ,city z ! body ( ! bride ( ,*ri/1 ?is hill be+ ! head1 ,zion ! pleura1 & s on4 ,! !ory1 s f> z x reg>ds ,calv>y1 has appeal$ to _m compet5t judges :o 7 v f> f adopt+ ! my/ical & emblematic views ( ,gordon4 ,! hill is an old qu>ry1 )9 :i* ,j]emiah is suppos$ by tradition to h writt5 8 ,lam5tations4 ,x is q a little hill1 ^: %ort & scanty grass 0 burnt up ) dr\ght :5 we saw x1 leav+ a surface ( loose s&y soil4 ,a man crucifi$ "h w\ld h ! ,m\nt ( ,olives 9 8 eyes beh9d "s ro(-l9es ( ! city4 ,by a curi\s co9cid5ce a rock-hewn tomb1 ) a groove runn+ 9 front ( ! face ( x = a great /one :i* w\ld close its entrance1 has be5 discov]$ close by4 ,x is a grave ) only "o loculus 9 x1 & x is tempt+ly l "o's idea ( ! ,g>d5 ,tomb ( ,joseph2 b x is said to be und\bt$ly ( lat] date ?an ! dea? ( ,jesus4 ,f "o po9t 9 ! road1 some:at ne>] ! ,valley ( ,jeho%aphat1 ! holl[s & caves ( ! hill1 :i* "h breaks along its l5g? into a small precipice1 be> a /rik+ resemblance to a *apfall5 skull4 ,n t ! features c be exam9$ 9 any?+ l accurate detail4 ,b 9 ! ev5+1 :ile ! sun sets ov] ,j]usalem & ! %ad[s sl[ly deep51 ! resemblance is suffici5t to /rike "o :o _h n he>d t ?is 0 ! place s nam$4 ,_m argum5ts h be5 urg$ = ?is new site4 ,its proximity to an anci5t ,jewi% cemet]y is 9 fav\r ( ! probability t ,joseph's tomb 0 !re4 ,x 0 close to ! public highway1 z ,calv>y und\bt$ly 04 ,x is also significant t ! gate n[ kn[n z ! ,damascus ,gate 0 =m]ly call$ ,/4 ,/eph5's ,gate2 & tradition affirm$ t ?r\gh x ,/4 ,/eph5 0 l$ =? to 8 m>tyrdom4 ,x is probable t ! m>tyrdom took place on ! public execution-gr\nd1 :]e1 9 ! natural c\rse ( ev5ts1 ,jesus & ! robb]s w\ld also h be5 crucifi$4 ,f9ally1 & mo/ important1 rec5t explorations h discov]$1 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! city1 huge ,jewi% /ones :i* are believ$ by advocates ( ?is !ory to be ^? ( ! wall :i* /ood !re 9 ! "t ( ,*ri/4 ,by complet+ ! l9e ( ^! /ones a wall is recon/ruct$ :i* encloses ! traditional ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re1 :ile x leaves ,gordon's site /ill outside4 ,to get ! ,holy ,sepul*re outside ?is wall1 z we "k ! place ( ! crucifixion 01 x w\ld be necess>y to imag9e a %>p angul> recess 9 ! wall po9t+ inw>ds1 ) ,calv>y fill+ ! space )9 ! arms ( ! angle4 ,x matt]s little :]e ! spot 04 ,yet x w\ld be int]e/+ if ! nor? side ( ! city %\ld ultimately claim ,him f ! we/--,naz>e?1 z x 71 f ,rome4 ,! g>d5 & ! new grave belong to an ,engli% committee ( tru/ees end[$ 9 #aija4 ,x w\ld inde$ be a /rik+ ?+ if1 aft] all ! idolatry ( sites :i* ! vision ( ,/4 ,hel5a />t$1 ! real hill & g>d5 :]e ! _w's great trag$y 0 enact$ %\ld prove to h gone pa/ ,roman & ,greek wor%ipp]s bo?1 & to h be5 committ$ to ! h&s ( ,prote/ants4#fa ,no "o :o has /ood ^u t hill ( ,golgo?a & ?\ght ( ! wondr\s pa/ c h fail$ to p]ceive a my/ical & d>k connection betwe5 ! crime :i* has r5d]$ ,j]usalem s fam\s1 & all t dea?ly & spectral fate :i* has befall5 ! _s ( ,syria4 ,z we /& amid ! deep5+ %ad[s ( sunset on ! spot :]e ,*ri/ 0 crucifi$1 a *ange seems to come1 z ! blood-r$ sky crimsons ! m9>ets & domes4 ,x is no long] ,*ri/ t hangs ^u ! ,cross1 b ,pale/9e4 ,no o!r l& w\ld h crucifi$ ,him4 ,_h ,he come to ,greece ,he might h be5 neglect$ or ridicul$1 b c]ta9ly n crucifi$4 ,= t x ne$$ a religion z bitt]ly e>ne/1 & at ! same "t z morally decay$1 z ,judaism 0 !n4 ,& t same moral & spiritual condition :i* set up ! ,cross = ,jesus1 has f9i%$ its c\rse by crucify+ ! nation t murd]$ ,him4 ,mo/ lit]ally ?is happ5$ 9 ! days :5 ,titus us$ up all ! trees ne> ,j]usalem to make crosses = ,jews4 ,b 9 ,sir ,john ,m&eville's "t ! leg5d _h exp&$ to ?is1 t at ! ,crucifixion all ! trees 9 ! _w )]$ & di$4 ,c]ta9ly a blight came ^u ! l& ( ,pale/9e4 ,x has sometimes be5 ass]t$ t ! nation :i* crucifi$ ,jesus ,*ri/ c nev] aga9 rise to national prosp]ity or greatness4 ,! =ces at "w 9 hi/ory are f> too subtle & complex to all[ any "o to say ) assurance :at ! future may or may n h 9 /ore = a race4 ,b ?is at lea/ is evid5t1 t mean:ile ! ,cross has m>k$ ?is region = its own2 ! l& is ev]y:]e on its ,cross1 & ! obvi\s cause ( ?is is ! want ( righte\sness1 bo? 9 oppressors & oppress$4 ,x is a l& t cries al\d = righte\sness 9 its agony4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,resurrection ,9 reg>d to ! future ( ,pale/9e ! outlook ( diff]5t writ]s v>ies p]haps z mu* z ^u any simil> "q t c\ld be nam$4 ,e "o is famili> ) ! ,utopian dreams :i* optimi/ic con/ructors ( programmes *]i% reg>d+ x4 ,on ! o!r h&1 grave & ?\ghtful writ]s h sometimes felt ! mis]y ( its pres5t /ate s heavily z to ab&on all hope = ! future1 & to ackn[l$ge ! mo/ disc\rag+ views z to ! possibilities be=e ! l&4 ,ap>t f s5tim5t1 or f "s fav\rite me?od ( int]pret+ prophecy1 ! reasons = su* pessimism are ma9ly two4 ,"o is ! *ange ( climate1 :i* appe>s f _m indications to be an unque/ionable fact4 ,! o!r is ! de/ruction ( t]races1 & ! consequ5t wa%+ away ( soil f ! high] regions ( ! c\ntry4 ,^! are s]i\s consid]ations1 :i* _c be ignor$4 ,if ?is view be ! correct "o1 ! only p]man5t cont9uance ( ,syria w be z a symbol ( judgm5t1 a k9d ( ,lot's-wife pill> among ! peoples1 a s]mon 9 /one ^u ! e?ical pr9ciples :i* gov]n ! =tunes ( nations4 ,! l& w rema9 z a prov]b1 b w nev] aga9 be a home4 ,yet nei!r ^! nor any o!r su* =ebod+s seem to ! ord9>y obs]v] q to be ju/ifi$4 ,if ! climate has *ang$1 may n t be due to causes t c be rem$i$8 ,by prop] dra9age ( swamps & plant+ ( trees1 x w\ld seem p]fectly possible to modify climatic conditions to an ext5t at lea/ suffici5t to all[ ! hope ( prosp]\s agriculture & pleasant habitation4 ,z to ! t]races1 if !y h be5 con/ruct$ once !y may be recon/ruct$ ) hope ( result4 ,!re are tracts ev5 9 ! des]t itself :]e traces ( =m] cultivation may /ill be se54 ,if ! uncivilis$ or semi-b>b>\s tribes ( ! anci5t "t built up ! l& until h&fuls ( corn wav$ on ! tops ( m\nta9s1 surely x is n too mu* to expect t m5 arm$ ) all ! skill & appliance ( mod]n eng9e]+ may yet repeat ! process4 ,! in/ance ( ,malta has be5 already cit$2 &1 ap>t f t x is a v du/y _w1 & soil accumulates z if by magic :]e man provides = x a place to re/ on4 ,x seems ra% 9 "o little qualifi$ = ! task to pron\nce judgm5t ( any sort on ! future ( ,pale/9e1 yet ! conviction t all is n ov] ) ! l& gr[s /rong]1 r ?an weak]1 ) reflection4 ,r5an speaks ( 8! little k+dom ( ,israel1 :i* 0 9 ! highe/ degree creative1 b did n "k h[ to cr[n its edifice40 ,put 9 ano!r ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,nor?-,,ea/ ,,end ,,( ,,j]usalem ,,& ,,mizpah1 ,,f ,,! ,,m\nt ,,( ,,olives4 ,! m\nta9 above ! city to ! nor?1 ) mosque & m9>et on its summit1 is ! po9t f :i* ! ,crusad]s _h _! fir/ view ( ,j]usalem4 =m1 ?is means t ! ,holy ,l& is a l& ( prophecies unfulfill$ or half-fulfill$4 ,b ea* su* prophecy 0 an inspiration1 by :i* ! highe/ m5 saw possibilities = ! nation1 ^: conditions ! l[] m5 fail$ to realise or to fulfil4 ,yet ! possibilities 7 !re1 z to a great ext5t !y /ill are !re1 &1 z ,con+sby puts x1 8! ,ea/ is a c>e]40 ,z to :at ^? possibilities & t c>e] may actually be1 ! pa/ hi/ory ( ! l& may guide our speculation4 ,"h1 z else:]e1 ! l9es ( hope = ! future are po9t$ out by ! failures ( ! pa/4 ,! failure has be5 due to bad morality & disloyalty to religi\s fai?2 ! hope ( success lies 9 e?ical & religi\s reg5]ation4 ,:5 we s\ght = an explanation ( ! mis]y ( ,pale/9e we 7 ?r[n back on ! e?ical aspect ( ! case4 ,_h ! l& be5 fai?ful to h] high call+ h] /ory w\ld h be5 v diff]5t4 ,nev] 0 a c\ntry hon\r$ ) s l(ty a tru/ z h]s2 nev] did a c\ntry s (t5 betray h] tru/4 ,?is 0 ! despair ( h] anci5t lawgiv]1 & ! burd5 ( h] lat] prophets4 ,:5 ,*ri/ came to h]1 %e knew no bett] ?+ to d ) ,him ?an to break ,8 he>t & to crucify ,him on ,calv>y4 ,)9 ! c5tury ,j]usalem 0 crucifi$ 9 turn2 & soon a ,*ri/ian ,syria took ! place ( ! p]i%$ ,judaism4 ,t 9 its turn decay$4 ,its cre$ became artificial1 its _s effem9ate1 & its morality corrupt4 ,! _s ( ,*ri/ianity _h sunk s l[ 9 ,pale/9e be=e ! ,mussulman occupation z to manife/ its zeal by us+ e ef=t to defile t "p ( ! ,temple area :i* !y reg>d$ z ! ,jewi% ,holy ( ,holies4 ,! "y fai? ( ,islam1 fre% & vigor\s1 & n z yet embitt]$1 made an easy conque/ ( ! effete religion1 :i* has liv$ s9ce !n on suff]ance1 lam5t+ its suff]+s1 b nev] realis+ its des]t ( !m4 ,to ?is day ! ,*ri/ian travell+ 9 ,syria is oppress$ by ! s5se ( its des]tion4 ,*ri/ has =sak5 ! desolate %ores ( ! ,sea ( ,galilee4 ,he walks no m 9 ! /reets ( ,j]usalem4 ,x is ! old /ory--8,!y bes\ght ,him t ,he w\ld dep>t out ( _! coa/s1 & ,he ent]$ into a %ip1 & pass$ ov] & came unto ,8 own city40 ,yet someh[ x is impossible to believe t ,he has gone f ! l& ( ,8 e>?ly home = ev]4 ,an incid5t :i* occurr$ to u 9 ,damascus dwells 9 our memory ) prophetic significance4 ,we _h visit$ ! ,great ,mosque1 :i* rose ^u ! ru9s ( an anci5t ,*ri/ian *ur*4 ,! orig9al walls 7 n entirely demoli%$1 & among ! p>ts built into ! new /ructure 0 a beautiful gate on ^: l9tel may /ill be deciph]$ ! ,greek inscription1 8,?y k+dom1 ,o ,*ri/1 is an ev]la/+ k+dom1 & ,?y dom9ion endure? ?r\gh\t all g5]ations40 ,to see ?is inscription we climb$ a ladd] 9 ! ,jewell]s' ,baza>4 ,at ! height ( "s fifte5 feet we /epp$ ^u a l$ge ( r prec>i\s masonry1 & aft] a %ort scramble along ?is came to ! l9tel1 half conceal$ by a rubble wall runn+ diagonally across x4 ,a /rang] 0 ) u1 a dev\t ,*ri/ian f a t[n f> s\? ( ,damascus4 ,9 ! :ole city no?+ mov$ him s deeply z ?is /one1 & he exclaim$1 8,x 0 ! ,*ri/ians' fault--!y 7 s r\gh1 s rude1 s ignorant--x 0 done by ! wi% ( ,god--b ,he w h x aga940 ,& ,he w h x aga91 soon] or lat]6 ,:5 ,om> he>d t ,mohamm$ 0 dead he w\ld n believe x1 b proclaim$ 9 ! ,mosque ( ,m$9a1 8,! ,prophet has only swoon$ away60 ,b ,mohamm$ _h di$1 & x is 8 dead h& t has held ! l& ^! ?irte5 c5turies4 ,*ri/1 be+ rais$ f ! dead1 die? no m2 & ! future ( ! l& lies ) ,*ri/4 ,to ! ,we/]n _w ,he has fulfill$ ,8 trem5d\s claim1 8,i am ! resurrection & ! life10 n only 9 ! hope ( immortality1 b 9 ! spr+ & impulse :i* ,8 fai? has giv5 to national ideals4 ,x is impossible n to hope = a fulfilm5t ( ! promise to ! l& :]e x 0 fir/ spok54 ,look+ d[n f ,tabor ^u ! hill ( ,dhy1 "o has sight ( ,endor to ! ea/1 :ile ,%unem lies j r\nd ! we/]n slope1 & betwe5 !m is ! village ( ,na94 ,x is z if t hill 7 a sanctu>y f ,dea?1 :]e ! grave c\ld n hold its own4 ,pale/9e holds 9 tru/ = ! _w ^? empty graves1 & "o grave above all o!rs f :i* ,he ,himself came =?4 ,surely %e1 too1 w rise1 by ,8 grace1 9 a fai? & "* pur] ?an ^? :i* %e has lo/4 ,x w\ld be impossible1 )9 our pres5t limits1 to say any?+ ( ! political or national outlook ( ,syria1 or ( ! _m s*emes & ag5cies :i* are deal+ ) su* problems4 ,! impression made by ,*ri/ian missions1 h[ev]1 mu/ h a ^w ( record be=e we close ^! notes ( travel4 ,we h already describ$ at consid]able l5g? ! sadness ( ,pale/9e4 ,z y j\rney f place to place ! impression deep5s4 ,sores1 expos$ & fly-bl[n1 intrude !mselves into ! memory ( _m a wayside & city /reet4 ,! dirt & /5* ( ! h\ses make ! sun%9e t]rible4 ,aft] weeks ( travel ! feel+ ( a sick l& has deep5$ ^u y until x has become an oppression weigh+ daily ^u y\r he>t4 ,sudd5ly y em]ge 9 a mission-/ation1 & an indescribable feel+ ( relief possesses y4 ,!re is at la/ a s\nd ( joy & heal?4 ,^! are ! spots ( brightness 9 a v grey l&scape1 little c5tres ( life 9 a l& :]e s mu* is morbid4 ,! visit+ ( sacr$ places w\ld be ! mo/ selfi% ( religi\s s5tim5talities if x 7 done )\t a pa9ful s5se ( helplessness aga9/ ! mis]y t surr\nds !m4 ,! only ?+ t turns pity into hope 9 ,pale/9e is ! mission-"w t is be+ done !re4 ,no "o c see t "w )\t be+ fill$ ) an altoge!r new en?usiasm = missions4 ,across ! sea1 "o believes 9 !m z a "p ( ,*ri/ian duty & cu/om4 ,on ! spot1 "o ?anks ,god = !m z almo/ une>?ly revelations ( 8sweetness & cleanness1 abundance1 p[] to bless1 & ,*ri/ian love 9 t loveless l&40 ,! names ( ,*ri/ian mission>ies are imp]ial names 9 ,syria4 ,x is1 inde$1 an empire ( he>ts1 & ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,pla9 ,,( ,,j]i*o1 ,,look+ ,,t[>ds ,,! ,,m\nta9s ,,( ,,moab4 ,! road 9 ! =egr\nd1 /ret*+ across ! pla91 is t f ,j]usalem to ,j]i*o4 its com+ is n ) obs]vation4 ,b ( its reality & p[] !re c be no "q ev5 n[1 & its sway is ext5d+ ye> by ye>4 ,to ^? ^: ,syrian travels h giv5 !m ! vivid imag9ation1 vivid almo/ z memory1 ( ! real fact ( ,*ri/ 9 ! pa/1 ?is fact ( ,*ri/ 9 ! pres5t is z welcome z x is evid5t4 ,!y feel1 & ! ,ea/ too is feel+1 t ! ,great ,heal] /ill goes ab\t ! l& do+ good4 ,! future1 :atev] its political c\rse may be1 is religi\sly full ( hope4 ,x may take "t--,god only kn[s h[ long x w take4 ,! anci5t miracles ( ,*ri/ did n reveal ! ,heal] to ! _w 9 a day4 ,yet quietly & out ( sight1 ! ,ea/ is le>n+ t ,*ri/ is inde$ ! ,heal] ( mank9d4 ,x does n z yet confess ?is1 ev5 to itself4 ,b ! he>ts ( _m suff]]s "k x1 & e ,*ri/ian kn[s t c]ta9ly 8,he w h x aga940 ,index ,abana1 #eb1 #ei1 #fj ,a*or1 #dg ,acre1 #afi ,agriculture1 #ga ,amphi!atres1 #ajg ,angels1 #bbj ,antipatris1 #ed ,aqu$ucts1 #ajd ,arabia1 ,arab1 #bb1 #bi1 #ic f41 #adi1 #aha1 #aih1 #aii ,aramaic1 #fi ,asceticism1 #abb ,a?lit1 #afi ,baalbek1 #ajh ,banias1 #ee1 #afh ,b>b>ossa1 #afa ,ba%an1 #dd ,beautiful ,gate1 #hc1 #aib ,be!l1 #h1 #ajb ,be!r1 #ih ,be?lehem1 #be1 #df1 #gb1 #gd1 #ahi1 #bad1 #bec ,be?%an1 #da1 #db1 #gb1 #afi ,beyr\t1 #ff ,bible illu/rations1 #ib1 #ic1 #id ,boo?s1 #agh ,bridges1 #eg1 #ajd ,burd5s1 #aha ,cs>ea1 #ajb1 #afc1 #agb ,calv>y1 site (1 #gh1 #hc1 #aad1 #aif1 #bbb1 #bce1 #bcf1 #bgf ,cap]naum1 #fd1 #aja1 #aje ,c>pets1 #af ,ca/les1 #afh ,caves1 #bad ,"*1 ,syrian1 #ae1 #cc1 #fb1 #bcb f4 ,*ildr51 #aaa1 #ahg1 #bah1 #bca ,*ri/ianity1 e>ly1 #aae f4 ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re1 #gi1 #aca1 #aej1 #aea1 #aef1 #aic1 #bce ,*ur* ( ! ,nativity1 #acc f4 ,*ur*es1 #abi1 #adf1 #afj1 #afe1 #aga ,cities1 #bb1 #fe f4 ,clo!s1 #ag1 #aha ,coa/1 #dc ,col\r1 #g f4 ,comm]ce1 #ge1 #gh1 #aeg1 #aei ,con/ant9e1 #aae1 #aaf ,cross1 !1 #adg1 #bcd f4 ,crusad]s1 #gd1 #aeg f41 #aib ,damascus1 #ab1 #ac1 #ba1 #ce1 #ec1 #fj1 #ff1 #ge1 #he1 #acg1 #adc1 #adf1 #agd1 #ahe1 #aia1 #aic1 #bbc1 #bda ,damascus ,gate1 ,j]usalem1 #ec1 #hc ,dan1 #ed ,dead ,sea1 #aa1 #be1 #cg1 #da1 #ea1 #eg1 #fj1 #bjg ,dea?1 #gf1 #aij f4 ,d]vi%es1 #adj ,des]t1 #ab1 #ad1 #ae1 #bj f4 ,detail1 obs]vation (1 #cb ,dew1 #ea ,disease1 #bbb1 #bbc1 #bbg f41 #bdd f4 ,dog ,riv]1 #ed1 #hf ,e>?quake1 #bab ,ea/ ( ,jordan1 #bb ,el ,aksa1 #adg f4 ,elijah1 #fa ,eli%a's ,f\nta91 #adc ,esdraelon1 #i1 #bb1 #bf1 #da1 #db1 #di1 #ei ,evil eye1 #bah ,fanaticism1 #ahh ,fatalism1 #bja1 #bjb ,fauna1 #ab1 #bbj1 #bba ,fea/s1 #ahh1 #bja ,fellah91 #bb1 #fi ,flora1 #ab1 #fg1 #afa1 #bjg1 #bji1 #baj1 #baa ,future1 #bci f4 ,gad>a1 #fj1 #ih1 #ajh1 #aid ,galilee1 #i1 #de ,games1 #ahe ,g>d5s1 #agg ,gaza1 #fd ,g5ii1 #bbj ,geography1 #cb1 #afa ,ge?semane1 #bad ,gho/s1 #aij ,gideon1 #fd ,gilgals1 #dg f4 ,glass1 #af ,gorges1 #dg ,great ,deep1 #ec1 #bac ,greece1 #ajj1 #aac1 #aig ,h>od1 ,well (1 #fd ,hatt91 #afi ,hauran1 #he ,hebron1 #i1 #df1 #fd1 #gd1 #ge1 #ij1 #aif ,h]mits1 #abc ,h]mon1 #i1 #aa1 #da1 #dd1 #ea1 #ed1 #ee1 #bbj ,h]ods1 #ef1 #aja1 #aaj1 #aga ,hezekiah's aqu$uct1 #ec1 #hh ,holy ,fire1 #acc1 #aic ,holy ,grail1 #afb ,hospitality1 #ce ,h\ses1 #af1 #fg1 #ge ,huleh1 ,lake1 #eh1 #fj ,hum\r1 #ahc ,immortality1 #aig1 #aih ,inscriptions1 #hg ,irrigation1 #i1 #bcc ,israelites1 #hh f4 ,jacob's dream1 #e ,jacob's ,well1 #ac1 #dh1 #fc1 #aai1 #abi ,jaffa1 #gb ,jeho%aphat1 ,valley (1 #gi ,j]i*o1 #bf1 #di1 #aje1 #bbg1 #bcb ,j]oboam1 #gh ,j]usalem1 #de f41 #ec1 #fe f41 #gf f41 #adi1 #bbh ,jesus ,*ri/1 #d1 #e1 #aj1 #ca1 #df1 #di1 #fi1 #hd1 #aac1 #aad1 #aej1 #agc1 #agg1 #bjd1 #bdb1 #bdc1 #bde ,jews1 #cj1 #hh f41 #aie1 #bja ,jezreel1 #da ,job1 #if1 #bbd1 #bcc ,john ! ,bapti/1 #adf1 #adg ,jordan1 #ac1 #bc1 #bh1 #dj1 #da1 #db1 #dd1 #di1 #ea1 #ee f41 #fe1 #aba1 #agh ,joy1 #ahh ,judea1 #h1 #i1 #bd1 #cd1 #de f41 #dg ,khan ,m9yeh1 #fd1 #aje ,kidron1 #be1 #df1 #fc ,knights1 #aea1 #afd1 #agj ,l&m>ks1 #age ,lebanon1 #dd f41 #ea ,leg5ds1 #fb1 #fi1 #ajc1 #acd f41 #aej1 #aec ,leontes1 #dd1 #eh ,leprosy1 #bbh ,lunacy1 #bbb ,maccabees1 #ajj ,magic1 #c1 #bi1 #aed1 #bje1 #bag f4 ,m> ,saba1 #be1 #bg1 #abc1 #abe f4 ,m>tyrs1 #aaf1 #abc ,m$ic9al spr+s1 #bja1 #bbb1 #bbg ,melan*oly1 #ca ,mi*ma%1 #dg ,miracle1 #c1 #d ,mirage1 #bab ,missions1 #ie ,mohamm$anism1 #b1 #gd1 #acg f41 #adb1 #bdb ,mona/ic e/abli%m5ts1 #abb ,morasses1 #baa ,mosaics1 #ajb1 #afh ,mosques1 #adf ,mosque ( ,om>1 #ec1 #gi1 #hj1 #aca1 #add1 #adi f41 #aei ,m\nt ( ,olives1 #aed ,m\nta9s1 #dj f41 #di ,muezz91 #adc ,music1 #ca f4 ,my/]y1 #bjf ,nablus1 #fd1 #gd1 #ib ,na91 #fh ,names ( places1 #ci1 #afj ,naz>e?1 #dh1 #fb1 #fi1 #gb1 #aad1 #ahi1 #bah ,oppression1 #bbi ,pa/1 !1 #b ,paul1 ,/41 #agb ,p]secutions1 #aaf ,phnicia1 #aj ,pilgrimages1 #aag f4 ,pools1 #baa ,pray]1 #adb ,provid5ce1 #bcc ,qu>antana1 #e1 #df1 #di ,ra*el1 #aie ,railway1 #hf1 #ahb ,relics1 #b1 #aai1 #aeb1 #afj ,religion ( ,israel1 #ci1 #fe1 #ig f41 #agc f41 #ahg ,revelation1 #ig f4 ,ri*>d ,cur de ,lion1 #afc1 #afg ,riv]s1 #ea f4 ,roads1 #gg1 #ii f41 #agd ,rib ,roy canoe1 #eg1 #ia ,romans1 #ef1 #gg1 #hc1 #ih f41 #ajg1 #ajh1 #aac ,russians1 #aai f4 ,saf$1 #ij ,/4 ,*ri/oph]1 #ace ,/4 ,george1 #acd1 #afh1 #aic ,sam>ia1 #i1 #de1 #dg1 #dh1 #ajb1 #aaj1 #adf ,sam>itans1 #ib ,sanur1 #dh ,sc5ts1 #agi ,sea1 #ba1 #bd1 #gh1 #bab1 #bac ,sea ( ,galilee1 #aa1 #ae1 #cg1 #eh1 #ei1 #bjh1 #bji1 #baj ,%irky1 #bf ,siloam1 #ec1 #gf1 #ha1 #hh ,sites1 id5tification (1 #afe ,smallness ( ! l&1 #cg ,solomon1 #gh1 #aec ,spectral1 !1 #bje f4 ,spr+s1 #ed ,/ones1 ,jewi%1 #hb ,/raight ,/reet1 #ajc ,sun1 #ad1 #af1 #bh ,synagogues1 #gi ,tabor1 #de1 #dh1 #abh1 #afe ,tattoo1 #ah1 #ge ,tell ,hum1 #abh ,t5ts1 #bb f4 ,t]races1 #ej1 #bdj ,t]ror1 #bjf ,tib]ias1 #ij1 #ia1 #bja1 #bji ,titus1 #hd ,tobacco1 #ic ,toil1 #bbg ,tombs1 #ha1 #adj1 #agd1 #ahf1 #aia ,t[ns1 #fe f41 #ga ,travel1 #b1 #afa ,trees1 #fg1 #baj1 #baa ,tru?1 #bjf ,tyre1 #aj1 #gb1 #ge1 #afj ,und]gr\nd wat]s1 #eb1 #bac ,unf9i%$ness1 #agd ,villages1 #aa1 #ae1 #fe f4 ,w>1 #di1 #ej ,welis1 #ada ,wells1 #fb ,zioni/s1 #ij ,,! ,,end ,,footnotes3 #a ,eo!n1 *4 xxiii4 #b ,! natives h at la/ borr[$ ! slop+ r$-til$ ro(s f ! ,franks :o introduc$ !m4 ,cf4 a lett] writt5 by ,pr(essor ,g4 ,a4 ,smi? to ! ,spectator1 ,octob] #ahia4 #c ,t5t ,"w1 p4 #ed4 #d ,cf4 ,! ,semites1 ,rob]tson ,smi?1 *aps4 iii4 & v4 #e ,= ^! & o!r in/ances cf4 ,hi/orical ,geography1 p4 #eb1 & ,app5dix ,i4 #f ,cf4 ,! ,lea/ ( all ,l&s1 ,pr9cipal ,mill]1 *4 #a4 #g ,cf4 p4 #ae4 #h ,! ,rob ,roy on ! ,jordan1 p4 #abi4 #i ,cf4 ,! ,semites1 ,rob]tson ,smi?1 p4 #ig4 #aj ,rob ,roy1 p4 #ajb4 #aa ,t5t ,"w1 p4 #abj4 #ab ,! ,rob ,roy has contribut$ gallantly to its exploration4 ,to h] capta9's book ?is *apt] is "u _m obligations4 #ac ,t5t ,"w1 *aps4 xx41 xxi4 #ad ,!y are cut ) a cross-*isell$ m>g91 & r\gh out/&+ ru/ic "w 9 ! c5tre4 ,_! size & weight are enorm\s4 ,"o writ]1 ^: s5se ( hum\r is h>dly equal to 8 k ( ,scripture1 9 describ+ !m is c>ri$ away into ! /atem5t t 8! ,jewi% ar*itects1 taught by _! ,phnician neighb\rs1 be/[$ special c>e ^u ! corn]s ( _! great build+s4 ,!y %[ a f9i%1 a solidity1 & *oice ( mat]ial sup]ior to o!r p>ts4444 ,& h[ beautifully expressive is ! language ( ! ,psalmi/1 #8our daught]s are corn]-/ones1 poli%$ aft] ! similitude ( a palace'--"o ( ! corn]-/ones ( ?is angle weighs ov] a hundr$ tons06 #ae ,= an acc\nt ( ^! & o!rs cf4 ,pale/9e ,exploration ,fund1 ,qu>t]ly ,/atem5t1 ,octob] #aija4 #af ,see1 h[ev]1 ,pr(essor ,g4 ,a4 ,smi?'s ,j]usalem1 vol4 i4 pp4 #ahi1 #aij4 #ag ,haifa1 ,laur5ce ,oliphant1 pp4 #cag1 #cah4 #ah 8,love among ! ,ru9s10 ,rob]t ,br[n+4 #ai ,! ,dawn ( ,art1 ,m>t9 ,conway1 pp4 #eh-gf4 #bj ,/4 ,symeon 0 a %eph]d f ! bord]l& betwe5 ,cilicia & ,syria4 #ba ,cf4 ,s*aff's ,*ur* ,hi/ory1 ,nic5e & ,po/-,nic5e ,p]iod1 *ap4 iv4 #bb ,/4 ,j]ome1 ,ep4 xiv4 #bc ,cf4 pp4 #bg1 #cj4 #bd ,arabia1 ! ,cradle ( ,islam1 ,zwem]1 p4 #agi4 #be ,m$ival ,*ri/ianity1 ,s*aff1 p4 #aej4 #bf ,writt5 9 #aijd4 #bg ,! ,crusades1 ,cox1 p4 #gb4 #bh ,! ,crusades1 ,cox1 p4 #bae4 ,( ^! *ildr5 only #ejjj cross$ ! ,m$it]ranean4 ,!y 7 sold1 :5 !y l&$1 9 ! slave-m>kets ( ,alex&ria & ,algi]s4 #bi ,map has ! cr$it ( introduc+ ! ,grail /ory into ,ar?urian romance2 ,borron ( add+ ! e>ly "p :i* trac$ x to ,joseph ( ,arima!a4 #cj ,cf4 ,*ivalry & ,crusades1 ,/ebb+1 vol4 ii4 *aps4 iv4 & v4 #ca ,haifa1 ,laur5ce ,oliphant1 p4 #ahi4 #cb ,! ,semites1 ,rob]tson ,smi?1 p4 #bi4 #cc ,ibid4 pp4 #bdd1 #beg4 #cd ,deut4 xxviii4 #dg1 #dh4 #ce ,deut4 xxviii4 #dg1 #dh4 #cf ,rob]t ,br[n+1 ,william ,%>p1 p4 #bjc4 #cg ,g54 xxxv4 #af1 #ai4 #ch ,haifa1 pp4 #bgj-bgb2 ,t5t ,"w1 p4 #he4 #ci ,cf4 ,! ,dawn ( ,art1 ,m>t9 ,conway1 p4 #ie1 etc42 ,"s ,aspects ( ! ,greek ,g5ius1 ,pr(essor ,but*]1 p4 #cj4 #dj ,cf4 ,rationalism 9 ,europe1 ,leckie1 ii4 #aig4 #da ,cf4 ! sprightly figure ( ,glaucon 9 ,plato's ,republic1 ,b1 x1 #i3 8,d y "k10 says ,socrates1 8t our s\l is immortal & nev] dies80 8,by ,jove1 ,i d n10 replies ,glaucon4 8,are y prep>$ to prove t x is80 #db ,arabia1 ! ,cradle ( ,islam1 ,zwem]1 xiii4 #dc ,! rags :i* are hung on trees or f5ces ne> c]ta9 tombs sugge/ ! m$ic9al value ( holy places1 :i* attracts m5 to !m f selfi% int]e/s4 #dd ,talisman1 xxviii4 #de ,ea/ ( ! ,jordan1 ,dr4 ,m]rill1 p4 #dif4 #df ,t5t ,"w1 p4 #cad4 #dg ,m>ius ! ,epicurean1 ,walt] ,pat]1 i4 #dd4 #dh ,rob ,roy on ! ,jordan1 p4 #bfj4 #di ,eo!n1 *4 viii4 #ej ,cf4 ,ges*i*te des ,jdis*5 ,volkes1 ,s*r]1 ii4 #hai1 #hbj4 #ea ,cf4 ,! ,semites1 ,w4 ,rob]tson ,smi?1 iii4 v4 #eb ,cf4 ,! ,semites1 ,w4 ,rob]tson ,smi?1 pp4 #aig1 etc4 #ec ,t5t ,"w1 pp4 #fh1 #bjd4 #ed ,cf4 ,! ,semites1 ,rob]tson ,smi?1 pp4 #af1 #ag4 #ee ,ea/ ( ! ,jordan1 ,m]rill1 p4 #aic4 #ef ,! e>ly ,*ri/ian belief t ! gods ( paganism 7 demons has di$ h>d1 if inde$ x be q dead4 ,! 8weird horsem50 :o 9 w9dy nights are to be he>d gallop+ d[n lonely valleys lead u back to t int]e/+ cu/om by :i* a horse 0 actually provid$ 9 "s ( ! temples ( ! ,syrian ,h]akles1 to t ! god might ride =? at night4 #eg ,haifa1 ,laur5ce ,oliphant1 p4 #cjj4 #eh ,job iv4 #ad-af4 #ei ,! ,cradle ( ,*ri/ianity1 ,d4 ,m4 ,ross1 p4 #fj4 #fj ,see p4 #cf4 #fa ,pr(essor ,g4 ,a4 ,smi?1 9 8 *apt] on 8,! ,walls ( ,j]usalem10 has giv5 ! results ( an exhau/ive /udy ( ! mo/ rec5t rese>* on ?is subject1 & 8 conclusion is t 8on our pres5t data x is hopeless to decide betwe5 ! rival & contradictory argum5ts40--,j]usalem1 vol4 i4 p4 #bdi4